^ 
 
 
 
 
 im 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 jgmi 
 
 ■' 9^ \ 
 
 jf ^k" l&Mlfli 
 
 ^sv 
 
 5 
 
 nftUH 
 
 pJMR^l 
 
 
 
 -*-*' 
 
 
 ro- i rj% 
 
 • 
 

 •.'V- 
 
 
 +* 
 
 mUS 
 
 v • . S i 
 
 y 
 
 
 «Vi 
 
 «*>ssg 
 
 
 Vs», 
 
 jfe* 
 
m^mjM m*. wsm mmmsms^mmm®^ 
 
 IBKV 1 " 1 
 
 

 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^m 
 
 m 
 
 ^H ^^H f/*i;H : ; 
 
 ^H ^H »^s« 
 

 ■"^^^^■B 
 
■■ Wwm!r 
 
 
 pommy's PlIXAR, 
 
 J,, „■„,,, the mode by »l„cl> .«„,„■ En.hsb S&«,Jtot*m*d*n*«*nt U d>e ca pitol of Ac Colum 
 
TRAVELS 
 
 IN 
 
 VARIOUS COUNTRIES 
 
 OF 
 
 EUROPE ASIA AND AFRICA 
 
 BY 
 
 EDWARD DANIEL CLARKE LL.D. 
 
 PART THE SECOND 
 
 GREECE EGYPT AND THE HOLY LAND 
 
 SECTION THE SECOND 
 
 PRINTED FOR 
 
 T. CADELD AND W. DAVIES STRAND LONDON 
 
 BY R. WATTS BROXBOURN HERTS. 
 MDCCCXiV. 
 
Hfl 
 
 ■HH 
 
 
PREFACE 
 
 TO THE 
 
 SECOND SECTION OF PART THE SECOND. 
 
 This further addition to the Second Part of these Travels, 
 will enable the Reader to form a tolerable estimate of the 
 probable compass of the entire Work : and it may serve to 
 prove, that the author, if he should live to complete his 
 undertaking, has not exceeded his original estimate, in the 
 account of a journey through forty-five degrees of longitude, 
 and nearly forty of latitude. By the endeavours made to 
 concentrate the subject, he may perhaps sometimes have 
 omitted observations which a particular class of Readers 
 would have preferred to those which have been inserted. 
 He has sometimes, for example, sacrificed statistical notices, 
 that he might introduce historical information, where Antient 
 History is pre-eminently interesting ; and again, on the 
 other hand, he has purposely omitted much that he had 
 written on the subject of Antiquities, that he might insert a 
 few remarks upon the Egyptian and Grecian scenery, and 
 upon the manners of the people. General observations, 
 as applied to the inhabitants of Greece, cannot well 
 vol. in. h be 
 
 

 ■■■ ■■ 
 
 An? I • I *;rftu' ; 
 
 
 11 PREFACE TO THE SECOND SECTION 
 
 be made: it would be a vain undertaking to characterize in 
 one view such a various population. Throughout every part 
 of the country there may be observed, not only a difference 
 of morals and of habits, but also peculiarities of religion and 
 of language. In the mixed society of one island, the Italian 
 character seems to predominate ; in another, Turks or Albanians 
 have introduced their distinctions of manners and customs. 
 Perhaps this may be one of the causes which, added to the 
 fine climate of the country, and to its diversified landscape, 
 communicate such a high degree of cheerfulness during a 
 journey or a voyage in Greece : for whether the traveller 
 be upon its continent, or visiting its islands, a succession of 
 new objects is continually presenting itself; and in places 
 which are contiguous in situation, he may witness a more 
 striking change, both as to natural and to moral objects, than 
 would be found in other countries, for example in Russia, 
 if he were to traverse a very considerable portion of the 
 globe 1 . After all, an author, in the arrangement of his 
 materials, cannot be supposed capable of making any exact 
 calculation, as to what his Readers may deem it proper for 
 him to omit, or to insert : but so far as experience has 
 enabled the writer of these Travels to determine, he has endea- 
 voured to obviate former objections ; first, by disposing into 
 the form of Notes all extraneous matter, and all citations ; 
 and secondly, by compressing even these, as much as possible, 
 
 both 
 
 (l) " Where'er we tread, 'tis haunted, holy ground, 
 
 And one vast realm of wonder spreads around." 
 
 Childe Harold's Pilgrimage, p. 105. Lond. 180.5. 
 
OF PART THE SECOND. 
 
 both by diminishing the size of the type, and by the omission 
 of Latin interpretations of Greek authors, which are often 
 erroneous. With regard, however, to the numerous additions 
 made to his Work in the form of Notes, it may be proper to 
 state, once for all, that they are exclusively his own, with the 
 exception of the extracts made from the Manuscript Journals of 
 his Friends: and when these occur, the name of the traveller 
 has always been added, to whom the author is indebtedfor the 
 passage inserted. He has been induced to mention this cir- 
 cumstance, that no person may be made responsible for any of 
 those errors and imperfections which belong solely to himself. 
 In addition to the Manuscript Journal of Mr. Walpole, 
 this part of the Work will be found to contain also 
 a few Extracts made from the posthumous Papers of the 
 late Lieutenant-colonel John Squire, of the corps of 
 Royal Engineers; who met with a melancholy fate, in the 
 service of his country, at Truxillo in Spain, in the thirty-third 
 year of his age. The death of Colonel Squire was owing to a 
 fever occasioned by excessive fatigue at the siege of Badajoz. 
 Never was the loss of any officer more deeply and sincerely 
 lamented by his friends and fellow-soldiers. To be em- 
 ployed in fighting the battles of his country was his ruling 
 passion ; and in fighting them he had been nobly engaged 
 for the last thirteen years of his life. During that space of 
 time, he served on the several expeditions to the Helder, to 
 Egypt, to South America, to Sweden, under Sir J. Moore, 
 to Portugal and Spain, under the same general, to Zealand, 
 and a second time to the Spanish Peninsula, where he ter- 
 minated his honourable career. The active mind of Colonel 
 
 Squire 
 
 ill 
 
MMB fiflH 
 
 ■pMBBPI 
 
 IV PREFACE TO THE SECOND SECTION 
 
 Squire did not content itself with the acquirements proper 
 to his profession only, but was impelled by a large and 
 liberal curiosity to obtain every sort of useful or of inter- 
 esting knowledge. In all the countries which he visited, 
 he kept a full and accurate journal, not only of military 
 affairs, but of every thing else either curious or important. 
 It is to Colonel Squire that the literary world owes the 
 discovery of the Inscription upon the pedestal of Pompeys 
 Pillar near Alexandria, which had eluded the ingenuity of 
 all former travellers. 
 
 The Catalogue of the Patmos Library, communicated by 
 the Marquis of Sligo ; and the Remarks made by Mr. 
 Walpole, not only upon that Catalogue', but also upon the 
 Libraries of Greece ; will, it is hoped, be considered as 
 valuable additions to this Work. The author is desirous 
 also to mention his obligation to the last of these Gentlemen, 
 for the assistance he has rendered in the illustration of many of 
 the Inscriptions. Nor can he pass in silence the advantages 
 he has derived from the Manuscript Journal of his friend and 
 companion, Mr. Cripps; particularly in that part of his Travels 
 which relates to Egypt ; where the continuation of his own 
 narrative was often interrupted by fatigue or by illness. 
 
 A more 
 
 (l) The original copy is written in the form usually adopted by the Modern Greeks 
 in their cursive style ; abounding in contractions, and containing many orthographical 
 errors. If the Reader only direct his attention to the title of one Manuscript therein 
 mentioned, namely, that of Diodorus Siculus, he will be convinced of the importance 
 of making further inquiry into the state of the Patmos Library ; such, for example, 
 as the French Nation caused to be instituted, when they despatched the celcbratec 
 Hellenist, Villoison, to the Monasteries of Mount Alhos. 
 
OF PART THE SECOND. 
 
 A more accurate representation of the appearance of 
 antient Inscriptions upon Greek Marbles, than had appeared 
 in former books of travels, it is presumed has been adopted. 
 For this purpose, a new species of type was invented by the 
 author, and used in former publications. It has already 
 received the approbation of literary men ; the Society of 
 Antiquaries having applied to the University of Cambridge for 
 the loan of these types, when engaged in publishing the late 
 Professor Porson's restoration of the celebrated Rosetta In- 
 scription. Considerable attention has also been paid towards 
 making improvement in the Plates: and a new mode of 
 representing Hieroglyphics will be found in the Facsimile 
 of a Tablet discovered among the Ruins of Sals. 
 
 It may, perhaps, be deemed a bold acknowledgment to 
 confess, that the account of Heliopolis, and of the Memphian 
 Pyramids, was written without consulting a single page of 
 Jacob Bryant's " Observations upon the Antient History of 
 Egypt." The author has, however, since bestowed all the 
 attention he could command, upon that learned Work; 
 and the perusal of it has made known to him, the source of 
 Larcher's opinion concerning a Pseudo- Heliopolis in Arabia, 
 together with his reasons for placing the renowned city of 
 that name in the Helta, although the French writer did not 
 acknowledge whence they were derived. Now the whole 
 of Larcher's pretended discovery, and of Bryant's most 
 elaborate dissertation, may be reduced to a single query ; 
 namely, Whether we are at liberty to alter the received text 
 of an antient author, in such a manner, as to transpose the 
 
 names 
 

 
 VI PREFACE TO THE SECOND SECTION 
 
 names of two Nomes 1 } If we be not allowed this freedom, 
 the opinions thereby deduced have no weight. After all the 
 labour bestowed upon the subject, the truth must rest upon 
 the examination of a few brief extracts from Herodotus, 
 Strabo, Ptolemy, and the Itinerary of Antoninus, as com- 
 pared with the modern geography and existing antiquities 
 of Egypt, with which Bryant was but little acquainted. It 
 will always be urged, to use his own words 2 , that " Strabo 
 was upon the spot, and very inquisitive, and very minute 
 and diligent in his description;" and that " we cannot sup- 
 pose him to have been grossly mistaken." Bryant believed 
 that the whole space between the Pelusiac branch of the Nile 
 and the Red Sea was such a sandy waste, that the Israelites 
 never could have inhabited it : although he confesses that 
 " the Jews, who, during the Captivity, betook themselves 
 to this country, thought it no despicable spot to settle in:" 
 and although the present cities of Old and New Cairo, by their 
 situation, prove that this district has now the preference, he 
 asserts that there were " no Nomes, nor places of any repute," 
 in that part of Egypt . " When they were occupied," says 
 
 he, 
 
 (1) Heliopolites and Latopolites. *" 
 
 (2) Observations upon Antient History, p. 120. Lond. 1767. So also, p. 123 (Note). 
 " Strabo's authority must be valid: he was an eye-witness of what he speaks of; and 
 seems to have been very inquisitive and exact." Strabo does, however, sometimes 
 describe countries of which he was ignorant, from the reports and writings of others; 
 as in the account he gives of Argolis in Peloponnesus, where he acknowledges this, 
 and proves his want of information, by affirming that there existed in his time no 
 remains of the city of Mycence. 
 
 (3) See Observations, &c. p. 109. 
 
OF PART THE SECOND. 
 
 he 4 , " it was chiefly by foreigners, who obtained leave of the 
 princes of Egypt to take up their habitation within them." 
 Wherefore it should appear that the presumed allotment of 
 this territory to the Israelites would be strictly consistent 
 with the antient usages of the country. 
 
 The positions of Heliopolis, and of the places near to that 
 city, in Arabia, are by no means doubtful ; since they are 
 always mentioned together, and in the clearest manner, by 
 Herodotus, by Strabo, by Josephus, by Ptolemy, and by Anto- 
 ninus, in his Itinerary. Cellarius places Phacusa, Bubastus, 
 and Heliopolis, in Arabia ; upon the authority of Ptolemy. 
 Bryant censures him for so doing ; and knowing nothing of 
 the rich borders of Arabia, accuses him 5 of stationing pro- 
 vinces " in the deserts" The authority of Cellarius ought 
 not to be superseded by the mere opinion even of such a 
 scholar as Bryant ; especially if that opinion be unsupported 
 by matter of fact ; and in this instance the principle of the 
 " malim err are" is very admissible. The evidences for the 
 position of Heliopolis, as deduced from Herodotus, Strabo, 
 Ptolemy, and the Itinerary of Antoninus, are as follow. 
 
 " To one going upwards from Heliopolis," says Herodo- 
 tus', " Egypt is narrow, owing to the Mountain of Arabia. 
 In this mountain are the quarries whence the stones were 
 
 taken 
 
 vn 
 
 (4) See Observations, &c. p. 107. (5) Ibid. p. 112. Note 7. 
 
 (6) 'Ajto hi 'HXiovrrdXioc avu lovri, (TTmyij tart. A'tyvirroc. ry p-tv yap Tij(. 
 'Apafiirjs upot TrapariraTUi, K. r. X. iv r« <al XiOorofilat tvnoi, at ee ra<; irvpafiit- 
 cas KctTaTfAiiOtiffai ro« Iv Mifujn. Herodoti Euterpe, c. viii. pp. 9 2 > 9 3> Lond. 1079- 
 

 Vlll PREFACE TO THE SECOND SECTION 
 
 taken for building the Pyramids of Memphis." The moun- 
 tain, mentioned by Herodotus in this passage, is evidently 
 Mohatam: and Letopolis, Latopolis, or Litopolis, which 
 Bryant thinks 1 derived its name from those quarries (q.d. 
 AI0OHOAI2), being near to it, is mentioned with Heliopolis 
 by other writers. We may now consider the circumstances 
 of association under which Heliopolis is noticed by Strabo" : — 
 " These places (Phacusa and Phithom) are near to the vertex 
 of the Delta: there is the city of Bubastus and the Bubastic 
 Nome; and beyond this 3 the Nome of Heliopolis, where the' 
 City of the Sun is situated." After describing the temple 
 and the antiquities of the city, he continues by giving a 
 description of the Nile beyond the Delta ; speaking of Libya 
 as being upon his right, and Arabia upon his left. Then 
 he adds this remarkable observation: " Wherefore the Helio- 
 politan Nome is in Arabia.'" After this, he introduces the 
 Litopolitan Nome and the Babylonian fortress, as next in 
 succession to the Heliopolitan upon the Arabian side of 
 the river. 
 
 This position of the Nomes in Lower Egypt is equally 
 authorised by Ptolemy. He enumerates them as they 
 occurred from north to south", after Strabo's method of 
 
 description ; 
 
 (0 See Observ. upon Ant. Hist. p. 123. Note 5. Lond. 1767. 
 
 (2) Ovtoi tT oi rdiroi ir\i)(rid£ov(n r?) Kopvtyrj rov A/Xra. Avrov ce teal »/ Jiou- 
 fiaarot, jroXt?, teal 6 Hovfiaarirtjs vofioq' teal inrsp avrov 6 'ri\io7ro\irt]<; vofxoK. 
 'EvravOa S' early ij rov q\iov jro'Xtt, k. r. X. Strabon. Geog. lib. xvii. p. 1141. 
 edit. Oxon. I8O7. 
 
 (3) Trip avrov. Sic MS. Par. Med. iv. Vid. p. 1141. ed. Oxo-n. 
 
 (4) Vid. Ptolem. Geog. lib. iv. p. 212. Paris, 1546. 
 
OF PART THE SECOND. 
 
 description ; giving them in this order;— " the Bubastic Nome, 
 and its metropolis Bubastus : the Heliopolitan Nome, and its 
 metropolis HELiopoLisr" These, together with Aphroditopolis, 
 he places in Arabia". 
 
 The same position is assigned to them by the Itinerary 
 of Antoninus : 
 
 In Arabia. 
 
 Aphroditopolis. 
 
 Scenas Mandras . . m. p. xx. 
 
 Babylon m. p. xii. 
 
 Heliu M. p. xii. 
 
 Other evidence to the same effect, if necessary, may be 
 deduced from Dioclorus Siculus, and from Josephus. 
 
 In the observations upon Alexandria, some additional 
 remarks will be found concerning the Soros of Alexander the 
 Great, so fortunately added to the trophies of our victories in 
 Egypt, in the very moment when it was clandestinely con- 
 veying to Paris. Since the original publication of the Testimo- 
 nies respecting this most interesting monument, the Editors of 
 the Edinburgh Encyclopedia have considered the evidence as 
 decisive ; and have, by means of their valuable work, given it 
 a passport to the notice of posterity, which the writings of the 
 author were little likely to afford. Occasionally, indeed, it has 
 been urged, that some unknown personage, belonging to the 
 
 British 
 
 IX 
 
 (6) 'Ev /usdopiu 'Apafltas ical 
 
 'A.^podiroiroXeug, Haflv\a)v, 
 'HXtovVoXt?. Ptolem. Geog. lib. iv. p. 212. Paris, 1546. 
 
 VOL. III. C 
 
HH 
 
 
 X PREFACE TO THE SECOND SECTION 
 
 British Museum, does not concur in the opinion thus maintained 
 concerning this remarkable relique. The author has been 
 sometimes asked, Why it is not called the Soros of Alexander, 
 in the Catalogue of Antiquities put into the hands of strangers 
 who visit that stately repository ? How shall he venture to 
 answer so formidable an interrogation ? May he not also 
 propose another, equally redoubtable ? it is this : Why has 
 even the historical evidence, touching its discovery, been so 
 unaccountably omitted ? Wherefore has the circumstance 
 been withheld from notice, that the Arabs held it in tradi- 
 tionary veneration, as the Tomb of Alexander ? The 
 reason why it has not received the appellation of a Soros 
 is easily explained. The meaning of this word had never 
 been duly understood 1 , when the Tomb arrived in England; 
 although this is precisely the name given by Herodian to 
 the conditory of Alexander's body; neither had it then 
 been heeded, that what Herodian termed a Soros, Juvenal, 
 according to a custom of the Romans, mentioned by 
 Augustinus 2 , had himself alluded to under the appellation 
 of Sarcophagus 3 : nay, so remarkable was the ignorance of a 
 few persons who opposed the opinion now entertained of this 
 Soros, that because it had, at a later period, served as & cistern 
 in Egypt, they doubted its original sepulchral use; and some 
 even ventured to deny, in direct contradiction of all history, 
 
 that 
 
 (1) This can only be disproved by shewing that in some publication dated anterior 
 to 1805 this word had its real signification. 
 
 (2) " Quia enim area in qua mortuus ponitur, quod omnes jam ^.ccpKotydyov vocant, 
 lopog dicitur Graece." Augustin. de Civitate Dei, lib. xviii. c. 5. 
 
 (3) " Sarcophugo contcntus erit." Juvenal. 
 
OF PART THE SECOND. 
 
 that Alexander was buried in Alexandria*. When the Cata- 
 logue appeared, in which the Antiquities are enumerated, 
 finding that it had not been deemed advisable to state 
 any particulars, even regarding the modern history of the 
 Alexandrian Soros, and that the remarkable fact of its being 
 considered by the Arabs as the Tomb of the Founder of their 
 City had been suppressed, the author wrote to request, that 
 a few copies of a Letter he had addressed to the Gentlemen 
 of the British Museum upon the subject, might be distri- 
 buted gratis by the porter at the door: but he was answered, 
 that this would not be approved. The question may there- 
 fore now rest, — and, as it is humbly conceived, not on the 
 test of authority, but of evidence. If mere authority could 
 have any weight, the author might safely adduce the 
 opinions which have fallen, not from private individuals, 
 but from illustrious and renowned men ; from a Porson, 
 and a Parr, and a Zouch 5 ; from scholars of the highest 
 eminence both at home and abroad ; who have approved 
 his testimony, and have aided and encouraged him in 
 making it public. It is upon the evidence alone that this 
 question can be decided ; and this is so simple, and so 
 conclusive, that it is open to every apprehension. It merely 
 amounts to this : Whether the Cistern held sacred by the 
 
 Arabs 
 
 (4) For the removal of the body from Memphis to Alexandria, see Quintus Curtius, 
 Pausanias, &c. &c. Kcu tov 'A\t£dvSpov vttcpov ovto<; 6 Karayayuv i\v bk Mep.<ptSog. 
 Pausan. Attica, c. vii. p. 17- edit. Kuhnii. Lips. \6g6. 
 
 (5) Dr. Zouch's opinion upon this subject occurs in a Letter written by the present Earl 
 of Lonsdale to the Rev. J. Satterthwaite, of Jesus College, Cambridge, Chaplain in 
 Ordinary to His Majesty ; who communicated it to the author. Although the testimony 
 of such a scholar as Dr. Zouch (with whom the author had no personal acquaintance) 
 
 be 
 
 XI 
 
JH^fe IHH 
 
 
 Xll PREFACE TO THE SECOND SECTION 
 
 Arabs as the conditory of Alexander, be, or be not, the sort 
 of receptacle which Historians teach us to believe did contain 
 his body. Any one who had read even such a compilation 
 as ' Purchas his Pilgrims,' and had therein found it stated, 
 probably from Leo Africanus, that in Alexandria there "yet 
 remainetk a little Chappell, wherein they say that the high 
 Prophet, and King Alexander the Great lies buried," would 
 surely have been curious to inquire what was really 
 exhibited by the Arabs as the Tomb of the founder of their 
 city : and if, during its examination, this turn out to be 
 nothing of Arabian workmanship, but in reality the par- 
 ticular kind of Tomb which Historians have actually ascribed 
 to Alexander, — a Soros, as it is mentioned by Herodian 1 , 
 
 covered 
 
 be highly flattering, yet it is hoped that the insertion of it may be pardoned ; as it 
 
 alludes to a fact of some importance in the evidence concerning Alexanders Tomb ; 
 
 namely, the remarkable allusion made to the Soros by Juvenal (who himself visited 
 
 Kgypt), under the appellation of Sarcophagus. 
 
 Lord Lonsdale's Letter is as follows 5 it was dated 
 
 " Cottesmere, Jan. 16. 180G. 
 " My Dear Sir, 
 
 " As Dr.Zouch's opinion of Dr. Clarke's history of the Tomb of Alexander 
 
 may not be unacceptable to you, I send you the following Extract from a Letter 
 
 I received from him a few days ago." 
 
 ' I have been much gratified with reading a history of the Tomb of Alexander by 
 Dr. Clarke, of Jesus College, Cambridge. Indeed I scarcely laid down the volume until 
 I had gone through it. He seems to have proved his point ; at least to have rendered it 
 highly probable, that the precious monument deposited in the British Museum is what 
 he thinks it to be. I cannot but believe that Juvenal expressly alludes to this splendid 
 Tomb, in which the remains of the Macedonian Hero were interred : 
 ' Cum tamen a figulis muuitani intraverit urbem 
 Sarcopkugo contentus erit.'- 
 
 (1) In describing the visit paid to it by Caracalla, who placed upon it his purple 
 ves t 5 — iTridtjice rr) keivov SOPfll. Fid. Herodian. Hist. lib. iv. Hist. Rom. Script, 
 at. U. Stebh. 1568. 
 
OF PART THE SECOND. 
 
 covered with hieroglyphics ; being an inscription in the 
 sacred ivriting* of the Priests, by whom it had been more 
 antiently guarded and revered ; — if this prove to be the case, 
 it will be found a very difficult matter to prevent the public 
 from identifying such a relique, however unsuitable the 
 consequence may be, to the views and feelings of any private 
 individual, or set of individuals, belonging to the British 
 Museum. Powerful evidence bears down all opposition; — 
 it asks not for opinion ; it demands assent. 
 
 It has indeed been urged, that other conditories of the 
 same kind were found in Alexandria; one of a similar 
 description being now placed r with the Alexandrian Soros 
 in the British Museum : but this is not true: and even if 
 it were, no other can lay claim to the tradition which so 
 remarkably distinguished this. The other antiquities alluded 
 to, came from Cairo, and from Upper Egypt: that, in 
 particular, now placed by the side of this, is the well-known 
 Cistern which was formerly called the " Lover s Fountain," 
 and stood near to the Castle of Kallat el Kabsh in Grand 
 Cairo 5 . Other remains of the same nature, less perfectly pre- 
 served, came from Upper Egypt ; whence they were brought 
 by the French to Alexandria. 
 
 It had been somewhat loosely affirmed, that the Egyptians 
 always buried their dead in an upright posture : and the 
 author, noticing this egregious error in his " Testimonies 
 
 concerning 
 
 Xlll 
 
 (2) 'Tote re \tpo~a; ypd/ujucKriy. See the Inscription on the Rosetta Stone. 
 
 (3) See a correct representation of it, as engraved in Bowyer's Work, entitled Sir 
 Robert Ainslie's Collection of Views in Egypt, &c. from Drawings by Luigi Mayer. 
 

 ■n 
 
 X1Y PREFACE TO THE SECOND SECTION 
 
 concerning Alexander's Tomb," maintained that the opinion 
 could neither be reconciled with the appearance of the 
 Tombs of the Kings of Thebes, nor with the evidence 
 afforded by the principal Pyramid at Memphis 1 . Since that 
 publication appeared, Mr. Hamilton has incontestably proved 
 that the affirmation was loose indeed, for that the Egyptians 
 never buried their dead in an upright posture 2 . A writer, how- 
 ever, in one of the Monthly Journals 3 , attacked the author for 
 having disputed, although upon his own ocular demonstra- 
 tion, the upright position of the bodies. '« Surely," said he, 
 " it will surprise the reader to learn, that one of the prin- 
 cipal writers by whom the fact above alluded to has so 
 loosely been affirmed, was Herodotus." It might, indeed, 
 surprise any reader, if this were true : but the assertion is 
 groundless, and altogether founded upon the most glaring 
 misconception of the text of that author ; as it is not only 
 admitted by every scholar, but decidedly manifested by the 
 appearance of the bodies in the sepulchres of Egypt. Hero- 
 dotus does not say that they were placed upright in the 
 tombs, but in the private houses of the Egyptians 4 , after the 
 
 persons 
 
 (1) Tomb of Alexander. Introd. p. 7. Camb.1805. 
 
 (2) See p. 165, Note (8), of this Volume. See also Hamilton's JEgyptiaca, p. 3 1 7. 
 Lond. I8O9. " It was evident," says Mr. Hamilton, " that the bodies had been placed 
 horizontally, not upright ; consequently the passage of Silius Italicus, quoted to assist 
 the contrary supposition, must have alluded to the posture in which the deceased were 
 kept, while yet retained in the houses of their relations." The same is maintained by 
 Pauw: Philos.Diss. vol. II. p.3g. Lond. 1795. 
 
 (3) See the Critical Review for July 1805. vol. V. No. 3. p. 276. 
 
 (4) See Pauw, Philos. Dissert, vol. II. p. 39. Lond. 1795. 
 
OF PART THE SECOND. 
 
 XV 
 
 persons employed to embalm the body had delivered it into 
 the care of the relatives. It is well known that the 
 Egyptians frequently kept the bodies of their dead, after the 
 funeral rites were performed, for a long time in this manner 
 in their dwellings. Sometimes they made them to be 
 present at their feasts 5 . And hence it is, that Herodotus, 
 alluding to this practice, says, the relations take the body 
 home, and place it in a chamber appropriated for its recep- 
 tion, " setting it upright against the ivall 6 ." Upon these 
 last words, the absurd notion was founded of its upright 
 position in the sepulchres of the country ; a notion entirely 
 exploded, and contradicted by the evidence of the sepulchres 
 themselves. 
 
 Upon reviewing the observations made upon the Grecian 
 Theatres, the author is aware that they might have been 
 more collectively disposed, instead of being dispersed in 
 different parts of his Work: but the business of a traveller 
 requires, that he should register facts, rather than write 
 dissertations : if his remarks be deemed worth preserving, 
 others will not be wanted, hereafter, to collect the scattered 
 materials, and give them a more connected form. 
 
 (5) 
 
 -" Et kjnensis exsanguem baud separat umbram." 
 
 Sil. Ital. lib. 13. 
 
 (6) 'IvrdvTtc opQov 7rpo<; Tolyov. Herodot. Hist. lib. ii. c. 86. p. 120. Lond.l67Q. 
 
 Camlridge, May 24th, 1814. 
 

 HH^^^HHHHI 
 
 ■■■»■■ 
 
THE PRINCIPAL 
 
 COPPER-PLATES, MAPS, AND CHARTS, 
 
 IN THIS VOLUME. 
 
 TO SERVE AS DIRECTIONS TO THE BINDEK. 
 
 No. 1. A View of Pompey's Pillar near Alexandria ; shewing the mode by 
 which some British Sailors rirst gained an ascent to the Capital of the 
 Column 5 from a drawing made upon the spot by Fauvel, etched 
 by Letitia Byrne To face the Title. 
 
 2. The Obelisk of Heliopolis near Cairo ; from a drawing made upon the 
 
 spot by the Author, etched by L. Byrne - - To face page 102 
 
 3. Entrance to the principal Pyramid of Djiza ; altered from Denon, and 
 
 etched by L. Byrne ------ r _ 135 
 
 -J. Hieroglyphic Tablet, as it was discovered at Saccara, closing the mouth 
 of one of the Catacombs or Mummy-Pits ; from a design by the 
 Author, etched by Elizabeth Byrne - - - - 172 
 
 5. Lares, Beads, Amulets, &c. found at Saccara j designed from the Originals 
 
 by R. B. Harraden, etched by L. Byrne - - - - 176 
 
 6. Antiquities found at Sais; from a drawing by Harraden, etched by L. Byrne, 214 
 
 7. Fac-Simile of an entire Hieroglyphic Tablet, as found at Sais in the 
 
 Delta 3 taken with printer's ink by an impression upon the original 
 Stone, and afterwards etched by L. Byrne - 220 
 
 8. Inverted position of Hieroglyphics, as seen upon the four sides of the 
 
 square mass of breccia beneath the Pedestal of Pompey's Pillar ; from a 
 sketch by the author, etched by L. Byrne - 260 
 
 9. A Plan of the Catacombs of Necropolis at Alexandria, as surveyed by the 
 
 French j engraved by Neele from a drawing made by the Reverend 
 
 George Wilkins 286 
 
 Vol. III. ^ 
 

 COPPER-PLATES, MAPS, AND CHARTS. 
 
 11. 
 
 12. 
 
 No. 10. View of the Island of Rhodes, as taken by the Author in latitude 36°. 10'. 
 from the deck of a Turkish Frigate, distant about twenty miles from 
 Lindo ; etched by L.Byrne - To face p. 316 
 
 Entrance to the Bay of Marmorice, bearing north, with a View of the 
 Coast of Caria, opposite Rhodes ; from a sketch by the Author, 
 etched by L. Byrne 320 
 
 Head-Lands visible at sea ; in one plate, viz. 
 
 1. Amorgos at sun-set Oct. 12, bearing s. w. and by w. distant 
 thirty miles. 
 
 2. Boccaze of Samos, bearing n. e. and by e. distant fifteen miles. 
 
 3. Boccaze between Andros and Tenos, bearing n. e. and by e. 
 distant ten miles ; from outlines by the Author, etched by 
 L. Byrne -__-_-__ 366 
 
 Portal of a Temple of Bacchus near Naxos, with a View of the Town and 
 Harbour of Naxos; designed by H. Wright, Esq. from a sketch made 
 by the Author, and etched by E. Byrne - 398 
 
 The Parthenon at Athens ; from a drawing made upon the spot by 
 Preaux, etched by E. Byrne ------- 488 
 
 The Erectheum at Athens; from a drawing by Preaux, etched by L. Byrne, 49S 
 
 The Odeum of Regilla, at Athens, built by Herodes Atticus; with the 
 Acropolis and Parthenon; also a distant View of the Temple of Jupiter 
 Olympius, the Choragic Pillars, &c. ; from a drawing by Preaux, 
 etched by L. Byrne --.._-._ 506 
 
 Monument of Philopappus, near Athens ; from a drawing by Preaux, 
 etched by E. Byrne -------- 544 
 
 Magnificent Remains of the Temple of Jupiter Olympius, at Athens, with 
 apart of Mount Hymetlus; from a drawing made upon the spot by 
 Preaux, etched by L. Byrne --._-_. 554 
 
 Temple of Jupiter Olympius, as seen in the opposite direction, looking 
 towards Athens; with a distant View of the Theatre and Torso of 
 Bacchus, the Choragic Pillars, the Acropolis, Parthenon, &c. ; from 
 a drawing made upon the spot by Preaux, etched by E. Byrne - 556 
 An Athenian Lady in the dress commonly worn ; engraved by Pollard, 5QQ 
 Master of the Caique in which the Author navigated the Archipelago, as 
 taken from the life by Theodore the Calmuck. ; (being a widower, 
 he wears his beard as a mark of mourning, according to the custom 
 of his island ;) engraved by Cooper ----- 59s 
 
 13. 
 
 14. 
 
 15. 
 16. 
 
 17. 
 
 18. 
 
 1(). 
 
 20. 
 21. 
 
COPPER-PLATES, MAPS, AND CHARTS. 
 
 Xo. 22. 
 
 23. 
 
 24. 
 
 25. 
 
 26. 
 27- 
 
 28. 
 
 Part of a terra-cotta Cornice and Frieze found in the Hieron of iEculapius 
 in Epidauria ; from a drawing by W. Wilkins, Sen r . Esq. etched by 
 E.Byrne To face p. 622 
 
 Terra-Cotta Vessels found in the Sepulchres of Peloponnesus; designed 
 from the Originals by Angelica Clarke, etched by E. Byrne - 664 
 
 Remains of the Temple of Jupiter at Nemea ; from a drawing made 
 upon the spot by Preaux, etched by E.Byrne - 714 
 
 Temple of Octavia at Corinth ; from a drawing by Preaux, etched by 
 E. Byrne 736 
 
 An Albanian of Greece, taken from the life ; engraved by Pollard, 762 
 
 View of Eleusis, as it appears in the Via Sacra from the Defile of 
 Daphne; from a sketch made by the Author, etched by L. Byrne, 771 
 
 General Outline of the Route - - N. B. for the end of the Volume. 
 
 LIST OF THE VIGNETTES. 
 
 No. 1. Remains of an Edifice with " pointed arches," at Acre; from 
 Le Bruyn, etched by E. Byrne ----.__ 
 
 2. Arabs raising water from the Nile into their plantations ; from Denon, 
 
 etched by L. Byrne _---. ... 
 
 3. Tombs of the Sultans near Cairo; from Denon, etched by L. Byrne - 
 
 4. Entrance to the Amnis Trajanus from the Nile; from Denon, etched 
 
 by L. Byrne ----__.___ 
 
 5. Remarkable form of one of the Pyramids of Saccara ; as designed by the 
 
 Author, etched by L. Byrne _-_-... 
 
 6. Antient Egyptian Sepulchre having the hemispherical form of the Primeval 
 
 Mound ; from a sketch made by the Author, etched by L. Byrne - 
 
 7. Transition from the shape of the Primeval Mound, in antient sepulchres, 
 
 to the more artificial structure of the Pyramids ; designed by the 
 Author, engraved on wood by Austin - 
 
 8. Antient Peribolus of Sais, formed by high mounds of earth, as seen from 
 
 the Nile ; from a sketch by the Author, etched by L. Byrne - 
 
 9. View of the Obelisks called Cleopatra's Needles ; from Denon, etched 
 
 by L. Byrne ---.__..-.- 
 10. Land around Aboukir, and a bird's-eye View of the Town; from Denon, 
 etched by L. Byrne ......... 
 
 Page 
 
 1 
 
 28 
 68 
 
 96 
 151 
 15CJ 
 
 160 
 
 198 
 236 
 298 
 
s&Bm 
 
 
 LIST OF THE VIGNETTES. 
 
 Page 
 
 No. 11. Map of Patmos; altered from Tournefort, engraved by Neele - 334 
 
 12. Map of Paros, Antiparos, &c. from the Voyage Pittoresque de la Grcce ; 
 
 engraved by Neele _-__..._ 3*^ 
 
 13. The first sight of Athens, seven leagues distant, as presented to persons 
 
 sailing from Sunium to the Pirceeus ,• sketched by the Author, etched 
 
 by L. Byrne _--__-.__ 424 
 
 14. Plan of Athens, from a drawing by W. Wilkins, Jun. Esq. engraved by 
 
 Neele 462 
 
 15. Charon, with Mercury, conducting a Female Soul to the Shades ; designed 
 
 from an antient Scarabaean Intaglio by Angelica Clarke, engraved 
 by Pollard 5lg 
 
 16. View from the Parthenon at sunset ; etched by L. Byrne, from a drawing 
 
 made by the Author ----_.__ $jq 
 
 17. Headlands viewed from the summit of Hymettus, bearing South and by 
 
 West ; a Wood-cut by Austin, after the Author's outline done upon 
 the spot ---.---.._ 58I 
 
 18. Buined Structure now occupying the site of the Temple of Apollo, upon 
 
 Mount Cynortium, in the Hieron of iEsculapius, in Epidauria 3 from a 
 drawing made by the Author upon the spot, etched by L. Byrne - 59/ 
 
 19. Propylaea of Mycenae ; from a drawing by Sir William Gell, etched by 
 
 E. Byrne 653 
 
 20. Silver Medal of Stymphalus in Arcadia j from a drawing by J. A. Carr, 
 
 Jun. Esq. engraved by Cooper -._.__ 709 
 
 21. Map of the Isthmus of Corinth ; shewing the site of the Isthmian 
 
 solemnities, the Antient Vallum, the Canal of Nero, &c. ; from an 
 original survey made by the Author, engraved by Mutlow - - 74 1 
 
 \ The Binder is cautioned, in cutting the edges, to beware of injuring 
 
 the Plates. 
 
 
GENERAL STATEMENT OF CONTENTS. 
 
 PART II. SECT. II. 
 
 PREFACE to the Second Section of Part the Second. 
 Catalogue of Plates, Maps, and Charts. List of the Vignettes. 
 
 REMARKS ON THE LIBRARIES OF GREECE 
 BY THE REV. It. WALPOLE, M.J. 
 
 JVith an account of Me Catalogue of Books now preserved in the Monastery of 
 Patmos, as it was copied for the Marsuis of Sligo. 
 
 CHAP. I. 
 
 VOYAGE FROM SYRIA TO EGYPT. 
 P. 1. 
 
 The Romulus makes preparation for sailing — The Author takes leave of Djezzar 
 
 Further Account of Acre — Existence of the Pointed Arch in the Holy Land, and 
 
 elsewhere in the East — Anecdote of Dear e, an English Sculptor — Voyage to Evypt 
 
 Accident which befel the Romulus — Arrival at Aboukir — The Braakel receives Orders 
 to convoy a Squadron to Marseilles — French Prisoners — Author narrowly escapes 
 being conveyed to France — Discovery of the Worship of Astarolh upon Mount Libanus 
 — Dangerous Passage of the Bar at the Mouth of the Nile — Fort St. Julian — State 
 of Affairs inRosctta — Price of Provisions — Manufacture of Coffee — Curious Remains 
 of Pointed Arches — Probable Consequence of the Interruption of the Mecca Pilgrimage 
 — Exhibition of the Psylli, or Serpent-Eaters. 
 
 CHAP. II. 
 
 VOYAGE UP THE NILE TO GRAND CAIRO. 
 
 P. 28. 
 
 Example afforded by a Naval Officer — Inaccuracy in the Maps of Egypt — Triple 
 
 Harvest of the Delta — Mode of raising Water from the Nile — Summer Habits of 
 
 the Egyptian Arabs — Ficus Sycamorus — Etesian Winds — Motubis — Dancing 
 
 Women — Debe — Sindion and Derrul — Turkish Cavalry — Arab Customs — Foua 
 
 — Rachmanie — Description of the Country — Diseases — Facility of visiting Upper 
 
 Egypt — Koum Scheriff — Amrus — Birds — Singular Animal Appearance — Plants 
 
 — El Buredgiat — Remarkable Phcenomenon — Tumblers — Abundance of Corn — 
 
 Southern Point of the Delta — Arrival at Bulac — View of the Pyramids — Visit to 
 
 the Reis Eff'endi— House of the French Institute— Jewel Market — Interior of Cairo 
 
 — Jugglers — Trees — Incense — Gum Arabic — Plagues of Egypt — Statistics of Cairo — 
 
 British Army from India — Dinner given by the Commander-in-chief — Discovery 
 
 made by Brahmins in Upper Egypt — Examination of an Abyssinian concerning 
 
 Bruce s Travels — Fidelity of that Traveller's Observations confirmed. 
 
mm 
 
 GENERAL STATEMENT OF CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAP. III. 
 
 GRAND CAIRO. 
 
 P. 68. 
 Arabic Language, as spoken in Egypt— Dress of (he Women in Cairo — State of Society 
 — Houses — Gardens — Ceremony of Ululation in honour of the Dead — Exaggerated 
 descriptions of the Country— Supposed Sacrifice of a Virgin to the Nile— Booh Market 
 — Antient Medals in circulation — Custom of the Arabs in passing a Bridge — 
 Appearance of Women in the Streets — Enormities practised by the Turks— Extortions 
 — Discovery of a curious Manuscript — Citadel — Pointed Arches — Interesting 
 Inscription— Mosaic Painting— Present State of the Art— Joseph's Well— Origin 
 of the Citadel — View from the Ramparts. 
 
 CHAP. IV. 
 
 HELIOPOL1S, AND THE PYRAMIDS OF DJIZA. 
 P. 96. 
 
 Passage along the Canal— Visit to Heliopolis— Maiarea— Pillar of On—Style of the 
 Hieroglyphics — Intelligence concerning them — their Archetypes— Cnw ansata — its 
 meaning explained— Of the Hieralpha and the Testudo— Other Symbols— Kircher— 
 History of the Obelisk— Minerals of the Arabian Desert— Doubtful origin of Egyptian 
 Jasper— Petrifactions— Dates & 'corn— Almehs— Of 'the Alleluia & cry oflajnentativ,; 
 —Voyage to the Pyramids— Appearance presented by the principal Pyramid— Objects 
 seen from the Summit— nature of the Limestone used in its construction— Extraneous 
 Fossil described by Strabo— Mortar— Labours of t lie French Army— Theft committed 
 by an Arab— Visit to the interior of the larger Pyramid— Notions entertained of its 
 violation— Its passages— Observation at the Well— Examination of some inferior 
 Channels— Chamber of the Sepulchre— The Soros— its demolition attempted— -The 
 Sphinx— its surface found to be painted— Discovery of an Antient Inscription- 
 Custom of painting antient Statues — Extract from Pauw. 
 
 CHAP. V. 
 
 PYRAMIDS OF SACCARA. 
 P. 151. 
 Illustrious Travellers who have visited the Pyramids— Audience of the Vizier— Voyage 
 to Saccdra— Nocturnal Festivities of an Arab Village— Appearance of the Country 
 to the South of Cairo— lnd\go(cva— Situation of Memphis— Tumulus seen among the 
 Pyramids— The most antient Sepulchres not pyramidal— Village of Saccdra— 
 Difference between the Pyramids of Saccdra and those of Djiza— Descent into the 
 Catacombs— Notion founded on a passage in Herodotus— Evidence for the Horizontal 
 
 Position 
 
GENERAL STATEMENT OF CONTENTS. 
 
 Position of the Bodies — Difficulty of ascertaining the truth — Repository of Embalmed 
 Birds — Cause of their Interment — Hieroglyphic Tablet — Antelope — Antiquities found 
 by the Arabs — Horses of the Country — Theft delected — History of the Pyramids — 
 Manner of the Investigation — /lge of those Structures — Their Sepulchral Origin — 
 Possible Cause of the violation of the principal Pyramid — Historical Evidence 
 concerning the building of Pyramids in Egypt — Further view of the subject — Hermetic 
 St idee — Mexican Pyramids. 
 
 CHAP. VI. 
 
 GRAND CAIRO TO ROSETTA. 
 P. 198. 
 Monastery of the Propagandists — Marriage Procession — Visit to the Reis Ejj'endi — 
 First Intelligence concerning the Alexandrian Soros — Preparation for Departure 
 — Arrival of the Covering for the Caaba at Mecca — Escape of four Ladies — Passage 
 down the Nile — Chemical Analysis of the Water and Mud of the River — Remains <f 
 the City of Skis — Antiquities — Bronze Reliques — Jralriform Sceptre of the Priests 
 and Kings of Egypt — Hieroglyphic Tablet — Enumeration of the Archetypes — 
 Curious Torso of an antient Statue — Triple Hierogram with the Symbol of the Cross 
 — its meaning explained — Mahallet Abouali — Berinbal — Ovens for hatching Chickens 
 — Tombs at Massora Shibrecki — Birds — Arrival at Rosetta — Mr. Hammer sails 
 for England — State of Rosetta at this season of the year. 
 
 CHAP. VII. 
 
 ROSETTA TO ALEXANDRIA. 
 P. 236. 
 Voyage to Aboukir — Visit to Lord Keith — Journey to Alexandria — Arrival at the 
 British camp — Communication with Lord Hutchinson — Entrance into the French 
 garrison — Wretched state of the inhabitants — Visit from a party of Merchants- 
 Discovery of the Tomb of Alexander — Circumstances of its removal by the French. 
 — Its situation upon the Author's arrival — Internal evidence of its authenticity — 
 Other antiquities collected by the French— Cleopatra's Needles — Pompey's Pillar 
 — Discovery of the Inscription — Sepulchral origin of the Column — Manner of its 
 support — Proof that it was erected by the Romans — Restoration of the legend upon 
 the pedestal — Events that occurred after the death of Pompey — Shrine constructed 
 by Coesar — Testimony of the Arabian Historians — Hadrian's monument to his 
 horse — Traditionary name of the Pillar founded on historical evidence — Interview 
 with Menou— Surrender of the Rosetta Tablet — Intercourse between the armies — 
 French Institute — Catacombs of Necropolis — Serapeum o/Racotis — Of Hades and 
 of Amnion — Cause of such elaborate sepulchres — Descent into the Cryptae — 
 Remarkable Symbol — Imperfect accounts of the Alexandrian Antiquities — Conduct 
 of the Capudan Pasha. 
 
■HBHHB 
 
 MMIwMMMBM 
 
 ^^^H ■fffif^fX&- 
 
 MM 
 
 ■■ 
 
 
 GENERAL STATEMENT OF CONTENTS 
 
 CHAP. VIII. 
 
 ALEXANDRIA TO COS. 
 P. 298. 
 Preparations for leaving Egypt — Journey to Aboukir — Cities of Nicopolis, Taposiris 
 Parva, and Canopus— Uncertainty of their topography — Thonis — Changes which 
 have taken place upon the coast — Heraclium — Aboukir Bay — Turkish Frigate — 
 Persons composing her Creiv — Discipline at Sea — Bay of Finica — Meteoric Phe- 
 nomena — Eastern coast of Rhodes — Lindus — Southern shores of Asia Minor — 
 Bay of Marmora — Rhodes — Cos — Town of Slanchio — Situation of the French 
 Consul— Antient sculpture — Inscriptions — Asclepieum — Votive offerings — Singular 
 article of the Mahometan Law — Population, commerce, and produce of Cos. 
 
 CHAP. IX. 
 
 COS TO P ATM OS. 
 
 P. 334. 
 Messenger from the Vizier — Botanical discoveries — Casiot vessel — Antient custom oj 
 singing Vesper s — Leria and Lepsia — Arrival at Patmos — Critical situation of 
 a part of the French army — Monastery of St. John — Library — Ignorance of the 
 Monks — Manuscripts — Discovery of the Patmos Plato — Other valuable Works — 
 Manuscript in the hand-writing oj Alexius Comnenus — State of the island — Antient 
 Medals — Extensive prospect — Holy Grotto — Dinner given by the French Officers 
 — Barthelemy — Women of the island — Bells — Stratagem for obtaining the Greek 
 Manuscripts — Fruitless attempt to leave the island— View of Samos — Icaria — Western 
 port of Patmos — Geological phenomena — Plants and animals — Marble Cippi — 
 Departure from Patmos — Prognostics of Greek mariners. 
 
 CHAP. X. 
 
 PATMOS TO PAROS. 
 P. 377- 
 Gale of wind— Vessel driven to the south of Naxos—Panormo— Independent Shepherds 
 —Appearance of the island— Minerals— Naxian Boccaze—Town of Naxos — Manu- 
 scripts— Inhabitants— Population—Antiquities —Inscriptions —Sculpture —Medals- 
 Gems— Colossal Statue— Temple of Bacchus— Other Ruins— Smeriglio— Arrival at 
 Paros—?avechia— Castle— Inscriptions— S hip stranded— Antiparos— Grotto— its possible 
 
 origin — mode of descent — description of the interior — Nature of the Stalactites 
 
 manner of their deposition — Paradoxical Phenomena — Crystallization of Alabaster 
 — Arragonite — Visit of the French Ambassador — Oliaros— Antient Quarries of 
 Parian Marble — Marpessus — Cause of the prevalence of Parian Marble in Grecian 
 Sculpture — Marvellous skill of the Antients in working the Quarries — Bas-relief— 
 Explanation of the Inscription— Origin of the work— Evidence it affords— Theory of 
 Crystallization. 
 
GENERAL STATEMENT OF CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAP. XL 
 
 PAROS TO ATHENS. 
 
 P. 424. 
 Voyage to Syros— Affecting Interview— Syra— Plants— Remains of Antient Customs- 
 Gems and medals— State of the Island— Voyage to Gyams—Hydriots — Wretched 
 Condition of Jura — Voyage to Z'ia—Carthcea — Ravages committed ly the Russians 
 —Ruins of Ioulis— Medah —Hospitality of the modern Greeks— Antient Dances — 
 Produce of Zi'a— Minerals. — The Author sails for Athens — View near the mouth of 
 the Sinus Saronicus — S uni um —Temple of Minerva Sunias— Anecdote of a Naval 
 Officer— Yatrode'ia— Other Islands in the Saronic Gulph—Calanrea — Albanians— 
 Elimbo— First Sight of Athens— Zoster Promontory— Doubtful Story of Minerva's 
 Statue — Arrival at the Piraeeus — Approach to Athens. 
 
 CHAP. XII. 
 
 ATHENS. 
 P. 462. 
 Origin of the fabulous Contest between Neptune and Minerva — Antient Sepulchral 
 monument — Excavations at Athens — View of the Cecropian Citadel— Funereal Aspect 
 of the City — Objects in the perspective — State of the Xn\\qxi\\\es— Interesting Relique 
 
 — Remarks upon entering Athens — Guilletiere — Ascent of the Acropolis Adytum of 
 
 Pan — 'Isg« of the Greeks — Portable Shrines— Statue of Pan— Celebrated Artist 
 
 Spoliation of the Temples — Comparison between the Grecian and Roman Buildings 
 
 Athenian, Posidonian, and iEginetan Architecture— Cause of the Injury sustained 
 in the Sculpture of the Parthenon— Splendid Representation of the Panathenaea— 
 Description of the Work— The Cothurnus, and Petasus or Pileus — Practice of 
 gilding and painting Statues— Marbles used in the Acropolis —Singular Construction 
 of the Erectheum— Of the Prytaneum — Temples of Pandrosus and Minerva Polias 
 Of the Olive, and Well— Propylaea— Walls of the Acropolis —Odeum of Regilla— 
 General description of the Theatres of Greece — Areopagus — Temple of Theseus. 
 
 CHAP. XIII. 
 
 ATHENS. 
 P. 516. 
 Temple of the Winds— Unknown Structure of the Corinthian Order— The Bazar— 
 Population and Trade of Athens— State of the Arts— Manufacture of Pictures 
 —Monochrome Painting of the Antients —Terra- Cot las— Origin of Painting and 
 Pottery among the Greeks — Medals and Gems— Explanation of the Amphora as 
 a symbol upon Athenian Coins— Ptolemasum— Antient Marbles— Theseum— Grave 
 
 Vol. III. 
 
 of 
 

 ■ ■ 
 
 ■■■■■Mi 
 
 ■■■ 
 
 GENERAL STATEMENT OF CONTENTS. 
 
 of Tweddell— Description of the Temple— Areopagus —Piraman Gate—Ynyx— 
 Monument on the Museum— Antient Walls— -Theatre and Cave of Bacchus— 
 Monument of Thrasyllus— CAomgz'c Pillars— Remarkable Inscription— Origin of the 
 Crypt— Ice Plant in its native state— Arch of Hadrian— its origin— when erected— 
 Temple of Jupiter Oiympius— Discordant accounts of this building— reasons for the 
 name assigned to it— Ilissus— Fountain Callirhoe— False notions entertained of the 
 river— Stadium Panathenaicum— Sepulchre of Herodes— Hadrian's Reservoir— Mount 
 Anchesmus — View from the summit. 
 
 CHAP. XIV. 
 
 ATHENS. 
 P. 568. 
 Excavations — Great Antiquity of the Athenian JVells— Curious Inscription upon a Terra- 
 cotta Lamp — Excursion to Hymettus — Temple of Diana — Monastery — Visit to the 
 summit of the mountain — Plants — Panoramic Survey of the Country — Return to 
 
 Athens Singular Adventure that bejel the Author — Description of the Ceremonies of 
 
 the Bath, as practised by the Turkish and Grecian Women — Further Observations in 
 the Acropolis — Inscriptions — Specimen q/Cadmaean Characters — Additional remarks 
 upon the Parthenon — Effect of Sunset behind the mountains of Peloponnesus. 
 
 CHAP. XV. 
 
 PELOPONNESUS. 
 P. 697. 
 
 Departure from Athens for the Peloponnessus — Extraordinary talents of a Calmuck 
 Artist — Further account of the Piraeeus — the " long walls" — Tomb o/'Themistocles — 
 its situation — remains of this monument — Objects visible in passing the Gulph — 
 jEgina — Temple of Jupiter Panhellenius — Antiquities near to the port — Anchestri 
 Isle — Ignorance of the Pilot — Epiada — Greek Medals — Arbutus Andrachne — 
 Appearance of the Country — Liguiio — Conak, or inn — Coroni — Cathedra of a Greek 
 Theatre — Hieron — Mountains — Temple of iEscnlapius — Stadium — Architectural 
 Terra-cottas — Temple of the Coryphaean Diana — Temple of Apollo — Circular edifice 
 — Theatre of Polycletus — Epidaurian serpent — Aspect of the Coilon — Perfect state 
 of the structure — dimensions and detail of the parts — Journey to Nauplia — Lissa — 
 Dorian and Egyptian antiquities — Arachnaeus Mons — Cyclopea — Nauplia — House 
 of the Consul — Turkish Gazette — Public rejoicings — Athletae — Pyrrhica — Popu- 
 lation — Air — Commerce — Gipsies — Characteristic features of Grecian cities — Tiryns 
 — Celtic and Phoenician architecture — Origin of the Cyclopean style — History of 
 Tiryns — character of its inhabitants, 
 
GENERAL STATEMENT OF CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAP. XVI. 
 
 PELOPONNESUS. 
 P. 653. 
 Further inquiry into the Origin of Tiryns— Road to Argos— River Inachus— Plants and 
 minerals — Argos — Terra-cotta Vases— Ignorance of their Sepulchral use — Hecate's 
 Supper— Lectisternium— Probable cause of depositing Earthen Vessels in Sepulchres 
 —Origin of the custom— Population of Argos— Antiquities— Theatre— Hier on of 
 Venus — Diras — Cyclopia — Alcyonian Lake — Oracular Shrine— Other remains of 
 the city — Character of the antient Argives—View of the Argive Plain — Fabulous 
 Contest between Neptune and Juno— Hieron of Ceres Mysias — Antiquity of fictile 
 materials in building — Mycenae — State of the Ruins — Extraordinary Sepulchre — 
 not the Treasury of Atreus — Heroum of Perseus — Sophocles — internal evidence of 
 his having visited the spot — of the Aciftx and Yiqt-TtvXaict — Tomb of Agamemnon — 
 Interior of the Tumulus — Enormous lintel— Use of the triangular cavity above the 
 entrance — Inner chaynber— Leonine Gate — Dimensions and description of the 
 Propylaea- Mythological Symbols— Consecrated Gates— Of the Pylagorae — Egyp- 
 tian characteristics — Worship of the Sun— Walls of Mycenae. 
 
 CHAP. XVII. 
 
 *, PELOPONNESUS. 
 P. 709- 
 Journey to Nemea— Defile o/Tretus— Cave of the Nemeaean Lion — Fountain of Ar- 
 chemorus — Temple of the Nemeaean Jupiter — Albanians— Monument q/'Lycurgus— 
 Nemecean River— Apesas — Sicyonian Plain — Sicy on — Theatre — Prospect from the 
 Coilon— Stadium — Temple of Bacchus— Other Antiquities— Medals— Paved Way 
 — Fertility of the land— Corinth — Fountain of the Nymph Pirene— Sisypheum — 
 Temple of Octavia— Visit to the Governor — Odeum — Climate of Corinth. 
 
 CHAP. XVIII. 
 
 PELOPONNESUS AND ATTICA. 
 P. 741. 
 Visit to the Isthmus— Remains of the Antient Vallum— Canal of Nero — Lechaeum — 
 Cinerary receptacles in the rocks — Remarkable Tumulus— Acrocorinthus — ^cewi 
 to the Citadel— Hiera — Prospect from the Summit— Hexamillia— Discovery of 
 the Town of Isthmus— Port Schcenus— Temple of Neptune— Theatre— Stadium 
 — Sepulchre of Palaemon— Trees from which Victors in the Isthmia were crowned- 
 Extraordinary mart for Grecian Medals— Dress of the Levant Consuls — Pandcvan 
 Horn — Cenchreae — Bath of Helen — Convangee — Cromyon — Manners of the 
 Peasants— Scironian Defile— Boundary between Peloponnesus and Hellas— KAKH 
 2KAAA — Entrance of Hellas— Causes of the celebrity of Megara— The modern 
 town — Inscriptions— Journey to Eleusis— Kerata — Eleusinian Plain — Acropolis of 
 
 Eleusis — 
 
H vt !'«-;-t#-;c it 'hi iti- m .Ji Af I 
 
 GENERAL STATEMENT OF CONTENTS. 
 
 Eleusis— Mar lie Torso — The Flowery Well— Aqueduct —Temple of Ceres— Statue 
 ■ of the Goddess— Superstition of the Inhabitants — Inscription — Sudden departure 
 for Athens— Via Sacra— Fast extent of Antient Thrace — The Rheti— Eleusinian 
 Cephissus — Salt Lake— Defile of Daphne— The rock called Pcecile— Temple of Venus 
 — Monastery of Daph?ie—ti\eron of Apollo— View of Athens at sunset— Athenian 
 Cephissus — Site of the Academy — Arrival at Athens— Negotiation with the 
 Waiwode — Return to Eleusis — Method devised for removing the Statue of Ceres — 
 Difficulties encountered — Success of the undertaking — Further account of Eleusis — 
 Long Walls— Of the Rharian and Thriasian Plains— Temples of Triptolemus, of 
 Neptune, and of Diana Propylaea — Temple of Ceres— Port of Eleusis— Antient 
 Theatre — Acropolis — Return to Athens. 
 
 ADDITIONAL NOTES p. 794. 
 
 Appendix, No. I. 
 p. 799. 
 
 Extract from Colonel Squire's MS. Journal; giving an account of Caiffa, Acre, tsfc. 
 and of his Interviews with Djezzar Pasha. 
 
 No. II. 
 
 P. 806. 
 
 On the Discovery by Colonel Capper of the Existence of Antient Pagan Superstitions in 
 
 Mount Libanus, particularly those which relate to the Worship of Venus. 
 
 No. III. 
 
 P. 811. 
 
 A Catalogue of Books in the Hellenic and in the Romaic Languages, printed at Venice, at 
 
 the Press of Theodosius ofYanina, with their prices in Venetian Liri and Soldi. 
 
 No. IV. 
 
 P. 815. 
 Temperature of the Atmosphere, according to Diurnal Observation made during the 
 Journey ; with a corresponding Statement of the Temperature in England during the 
 same period. 
 
 No. V. 
 
 P. 820. 
 Names of Places visited in the Author's Route. 
 
REMARKS on the LIBRARIES of GREECE, 
 
 BY THE REV. R. WALPOLE, M. A. 
 
 WITH AN ACCOUNT OF THE 
 
 CATALOGUE of BOOKS now preserved in the MONASTERY of PATMOS, 
 
 AS IT WAS COPIED FOR THE MARQUIS OF SL1GO. 
 
 These Remarks of Mr. Walpole being too long to be inserted in the Notes, among the Extracts 
 from hi* MS. Journal, the Author has prefixed them as an appropriate Introduction to this 
 Volume. 
 
 Ihe names of Nicholas the Fifth, of Francis the First, of 
 some of the Medici family, of Bessarion, Bushech ', and 
 Peiresc, are held in just estimation by the lovers of antient 
 literature. By their means, the Libraries of Europe have 
 been furnished with great numbers of valuable Manuscripts, 
 collected with cost and labour, in different parts of the 
 Levant. The first of these persons laid the foundation of the 
 Vatican Library, and supplied it with many Manuscripts 
 from Greece. From the same country, Francis the First, at 
 the exhortation of Budceus, procured many also; particularly 
 from Mount Athos. The exertions of the Medicean family 
 are familiar to every one. Bessarion, who died in 1483, had 
 made a collection of Manuscripts at the expense of 3o,ooo 
 
 crowns ; 
 
 (l) In this manner he writes his own name, always. Lamb. 1. i. 99. & 1. xi. 
 addit. p. 1007. 
 
H ^n lilffl l H Hi 
 
 
 (2) 
 
 REMARKS ON THE LIBRARIES OF GREECE. 
 
 crowns ; and his own account of his exertions in the cause 
 of Greek letters is worthy of notice'. The Manuscripts 
 purchased by Busbeck, during his embassy, are known to 
 every scholar, from the account given of them by Lambecius. 
 Many also were obtained in the East by those whom 
 Peiresc 2 had sent out; they visited Cyprus, Egypt, and 
 Constantinople ; and in the first of these places, portions of 
 Polybius and Nicolaus Damascenus were found 3 . 
 
 There is no doubt that Constantinople and Athos have 
 contributed the greatest number of the Manuscripts we 
 possess in different parts of Europe. There were monas- 
 teries full of learned men at Byzantium, to a late period ; 
 and every monastery had its library. The Turks, on their 
 conquest, did not occasion that indiscriminate destruction 
 which idle declamation has sometimes imputed to them. 
 Mahomet the Second secured the Library of the Greek 
 Emperors, which was preserved by his successors, until 
 
 it 
 
 (1) " Caeteriim, non tarn magnum numerum librorum quam optimos et excellentes, 
 deque singulis solummodo unum exemplum studui colligere, unde evenit, ut ferd 
 omnia volumina quae in ruinis universes Grasciae remanserant integra, et quae vix alibi 
 reperiuntur, congesserim." Cam. Op. Sub. Cent. 3. 
 
 (2) In 1631. See his Life by Gassendi. 
 
 (3) As many Manuscripts had been collected, at vast expense, in Greece for the 
 Library at Buda (destroyed by the Turks in 1256), we ought not to omit mentioning 
 it. Alexander Brassicanus had seen in it the whole of Hyperides with Scholia, the 
 Works of many of the Greek Fathers, and of the Classical Writers. From this Library 
 issued parts of Polybius and Diodorus Siculus. A Manuscript of Heliodorus, from 
 which was taken the first edition of the JEthiopics, was found by a soldier, and brought 
 to Vincentius Obsopceus : it belonged to this Library. Neander thus speaks of the collec- 
 tion : " Ex media Graecia inaestimandis sumptibus emerat Matthias Corvinus rex." 
 Epist. p. 10. 
 
REMARKS ON THE LIBRARIES OF GREECE. 
 
 it was destroyed by Amurat IV. 4 At Byzantium, Constantine 
 Lascaris transcribed many of those works which were after- 
 wards placed in the Madrid Library. In this city were 
 procured those Manuscripts which were left to the Escurial 
 Library by Hartado de Mendoza; and which had been 
 presented to him by Soliman the Second. Possevin has given 
 partial Catalogues of some of the Libraries at Constan- 
 tinople ; and a traveller in 15Q7 mentions a valuable 
 collection which he had seen in that city 5 . 
 
 With respect to Athos, we find that two hundred Manu- 
 scripts are deposited in one library alone 6 , brought from 
 the monasteries on the mountain ; and a great part of those 
 at Moscow 7 had been collected by the Monk Arscnhis in 
 Athos, at the suggestion of the Patriarch Nicon. 
 
 We must add Thessaly, Chios, Corfu, Crete, Cyprus, 
 Chalce (the island in the Propontis), Rhodes, and Kpidauria, 
 as places which have supplied some Manuscripts 8 . We 
 should have had much valuable intelligence concerning the 
 libraries in the monasteries of Thessalv, if the life of 
 Professor Biornstahl had been prolonged. He had visited 
 all of them; and had resided many days at Triccala, for the 
 express purpose of copying a Greek Manuscript belonging 
 
 to a monastery. Biornstahl was attacked by a fever at the 
 
 foot 
 
 (3) 
 
 (4) Hist de I'Acad. IV. Jortin's E. H. vol. V. 
 
 (5) G. Dousa. It. Const. 71. 
 
 (6) Praef. to the Catalogue of the Coislen. Library. 
 
 (7) In the Library of the Holy Synod. 
 
 (8) See the following references: Diar. Ital. of Morttfaucon; Fabric. Bib. Gr. 
 7.241; Fabrotus Not. Basilicorumj Bib. Coislen. p. 178 ; Crush" Turco-Graec. p 498. 
 

 (4) 
 
 REMARKS ON THE LIBRARIES 03? GREECE. 
 
 foot of Mount Olympus : here he was obliged to continue 
 ten days, without medical assistance; and was then taken 
 to Salonica, where he died, in July 1779 . 
 
 Notwithstanding our acquisitions are already great, we 
 should not intermit our researches in the Levant. Many 
 Manuscripts may be saved by them from destruction. 
 " I myself," says Dr. Covell, " have seen vast heaps of 
 Manuscripts (for I never found them on shelves, or in good 
 order) of the Fathers and other learned authors, in the 
 monasteries at Mount Athos, and elsewhere, all covered 
 over with dust and dirt, and many of them rotted and 
 spoiled 2 ." An inquiry should be made into the truth of 
 what was stated to Hemsterhusius by some Greeks 3 , " that 
 part of the Comedies of Menander was still in existence." 
 Application might be made to the Greek Nobles of the 
 Phanar, many of whom are versed in Antient Greek, and 
 who are probably the possessors of some valuable Manu- 
 scripts. Parts of the First Book of the Demonstratio Evan- 
 gelica of Eusebius were printed by Fabricius 4 from a Manu- 
 script belonging to Prince Mavrocordato ; and a copy of the 
 Greek Orators, now in England, was the property of a 
 Greek Noble. 
 
 It 
 
 (1) From a Writer of the date 1557, we have an important notice respecting a 
 library on Mount Olympus : " Dicitur adhuc hodie in Olympo Monte Monasterium 
 reliquum esse thesauro optimorum librorum dives ac celebre." Oral, de Stud. ret. 
 Phil, inter Melanc. Declam. 
 
 (2) Villoison's account of the destruction of Manuscripts at Patmos may be con- 
 sulted. Proleg. to Homer. 
 
 (3) Jul. Pollux, p. 1272, Note. 
 
 (4) Delectus Argumentorum. 
 
REMARKS ON THE LIBRARIES OF GREECE. 
 
 It may be reasonably supposed, that many Manuscripts 
 in Greece have experienced the treatment which works of 
 the same sort have met with in other countries. Poggius, 
 we are told, found, while he was at the Council of Con- 
 stance, a Manuscript of Quintilian on the table of a pickling- 
 shop. Masson met with one of Agobardus in the hands of 
 a bookbinder, who was about to use it for the back of a 
 book 5 : and one of Asconius was about to be employed for 
 the same purpose. Musculus found 6 , in the roof of a Bene- 
 dictine monastery, some of the works of Cicero, and the 
 whole of Ovid. Numbers of Manuscripts in Greece are 
 irrecoverably lost to us, either by design or accident; and 
 of those, which we may hereafter meet with, we cannot 
 suppose all w^ill prove to be of equal value 7 : 
 
 Yet if we meet with only few of which we shall be able to 
 say, as Casaubon* once said to J. Scaligcr, that they are 
 " TToXuriitrira,, et vere %gv<rov avra|/a," the trouble of research 
 will be well requited 9 . 
 
 A List 
 
 (5) 
 
 (5) Naude, 121. 
 
 (6) " Accidit, ut aliquando sub ipso aedium tecto confusam dissolutarum membra- 
 narum congeriem Musculus offenderit," &c. M. Adamus in Vita Musculi. 
 
 (7) Those which have an appearance of antiquity in the writing, are not always the 
 most antient. The Monks employed persons who were copyists by profession ; men 
 who not only repaired the titles of Manuscripts, but were dexterous enough to copy the 
 antient characters. " The Manuscripts written in Lombard letters," says Simon, " are 
 not always from a hand as antient as the time of Lombard writing. The same may be 
 said of other works." 
 
 (8) On receiving a Manuscript of the unpublished Mechanics of Athenaeus. 
 
 (9) Some exertions on the part of the Government would, without doubt, be 
 attended with success. Let us hear what was done in France, so late as in the time of 
 
 VOL. III. / Fleur >' : 
 

 (6) 
 
 REMARKS ON THE LIBRARIES OF GREECE. 
 
 A List of Theological Manuscripts in the Library of Patmos 
 has been given by Possevin 1 ; their number amounting, 
 according to his statement, only to fifty- five. The present 
 Catalogue, containing the titles of ninety- two Manuscripts 
 and about four hundred printed volumes, and of which an 
 account is here subjoined, by no means precludes the neces- 
 sity of further examination. The Greek compiler of it has 
 not stated any circumstance relating to the Manuscripts, 
 by which we can form an estimate of their value: he gives 
 no information respecting the form of the letters or 
 that of the spirits, or any of those subjects which would 
 lead us to a knowledge of their respective dates. 
 
 There is one Manuscript mentioned in it, concerning which 
 it is impossible not to feel more than common curiosity: 
 it is one of Diodorus Siculus. By an accurate inspection 
 of it, we should learn whether the hopes, which have been 
 more than once entertained of the existence of the lost 
 books of that historian, are in this instance also to be dis- 
 appointed 9 . H. Stephanus had heard that the forty books of 
 Diodorus were in Sicily. This report arose probably from 
 Co?istanti?ie Lascaris having said in Sicily, that he had seen 
 all these books in the Imperial Library at Constantinople. 
 Lascaris fled from this city at the capture of it by the Turks. 
 
 In 
 
 Fleury : "Ila envoie dans le Levant quelques savans qui ea sont revenus avec une 
 riche moisson de Manuscrits ou Grecs ou d'autres langues Orientales." Bib. Rais. 
 Juillet, 1739. 
 
 (1) See the Appar. Sacr. 
 
 (2) Photius, in the ninth century, perused entire Diodorus Siculus. 
 
REMARKS ON THE LIBRARIES OF GREECE. 
 
 In the turbulence and confusion of that period, the entire 
 copy to which he referred might have been lost. " Deum 
 immortalem," says Scaliger, " quanta jactura historian facta 
 est amissione librorum illius Bibliothecae, praesertim quinque 
 illorum qui sequebantur post quintum 8 ." 
 
 (7) 
 
 CATALOGUE OF BOOKS 5 
 
 IN. THE PATMOS LIBRARY. 
 
 A. 
 
 Aristophanes. Tliree copies. 
 
 Ammonius 4 . Two copies . 
 
 Aristotle. Various copies. 
 
 Apollonius Rhodius. 
 
 Exposition of John Zonaras 5 on the xaweg ccvcctrrcccri^oi of John of 
 
 Damascus. 
 Anastasius of Sinai. His Questions and Answers 6 . MS. 
 v A<rp,a ourpuruv, with an Exposition (perhaps by M. Psellus). 
 
 See Lamb. lib. hi. p. 77 • 
 Arrian. 
 
 Anthology of Epigrams. 
 ' AX&%uvdgov rov gf ccTroppqrav y^ocf^pbotriKr}. 
 * A^y/is fcoci oclriocg <xi£i rm dvo IxKXjjoriuv ; i. e. of the Greek and 
 
 Roman Church. 
 iEsop. 
 
 (2) In Euseb. Chron. cid.iocccclxvii. 
 
 (3) It has not been thought necessary to copy the title of every one of the printed 
 books mentioned in the Catalogue: the names of all the Manuscripts are faithfully 
 transcribed. 
 
 (4) Ammonius, son of Hermias, master of John Philopcnus. 
 
 (5) Flourished about 1120. See Mlatius de Libris Eccles. Grcecorum. Paris, 1646. 
 
 (6) Died 599. See Lamb. Comm. 1. v. p. 92. 
 
v*.y ^^^H 
 
 (8) 
 
 CATALOGUE OF BOOKS 
 
 ' ' Avdo'koylcc X&^tcov diot<pog&>v. One volume. 
 
 JE&m. 
 
 Panoplia 1 Dogmatica of Euthymius Zigabenus. MS. 
 
 ' AnoarroXiKo) kou orvvodixo) zavoveg*' 
 
 Athanasius. 
 
 Athenseus, Deipnosoph. 
 
 ' AXe%<xvdgov 'lovdcazot. 
 
 ' AfAccXQsiug xsgotg. 
 
 Appian. 
 
 ' Af/,<piXo%iov s , Msdodiov, xcu ' Avdgsou Kgqrrig, ru zv^ktko^vcc. 
 
 ' ' Avrooviov Ka,rri(pogov ygct{/,{ACLrtx,ri. 
 
 ' Agi@[A?irizrig ffvvoTTtzri Igfirjvsict, MsraAavou (Balanus). 
 
 ' A\e%oc,vopov. 
 
 ' Avflog yjzplrm . 
 
 ' AffQctkrig odqyta, rqg xura, Xgurrov ^ix?jg £oong. 
 
 ' AkoXovMcx, 5 rrjg ccyictg AtKursgivrig. 
 
 iEschines. 
 ' AZvpav wegi. 
 
 Asncv laTPiKOV. 
 
 Aoccpt, ZoigvixaCiov. 
 
 ' AdoXepfcicx, <piXofoog. 
 
 ' AXs^ccv^iiccg vrsgiygoMpri. 
 
 'AvcMrxsvri rtjg rov Bogrtgov fiiQ'hov. (Refutation of a Work of Voltaire.) 
 
 Agpovia, UQoyQu.tyix.ri. 
 
 (1) See, for an account of this work, Lambecius, 1. iii. p. 168. 
 
 (2) Lamb. 1. v. p. 230. 
 
 (3) Amphilochius, bishop of Iconium, died 3p3. Andrew, archbishop of Crete, 
 died 720. 
 
 (4) See Crusius, Turco-Graec. 222. and Du Cange, App. ad Gloss. Gr. in v. TgeAo?. 
 
 (5) " Pieces et officia." A<x««g/»» (Catherine); sometimes aspirated; at other times 
 with a lenis, as in Du Cange, i. 1140 3 who also gives Hcecatherina, in Index Auct. 
 
 (6) Born at Amida (Diarhehr) ; and wrote between the years 540 and 550. 
 Fab. ix. 230. 
 
IN THE PATMOS LIBRARY. 
 
 (9) 
 
 B. 
 
 Basil. Copies of different parts of his Works. 
 
 ~S>rio-(rccpiojvog ypotUj^otriKri. 
 
 The Logic of Blemmides 7 . MS. 
 
 BaXcra^fO? 8 l^riy^o-ig rcuv hpcov kuvovuv. MS. 
 
 Lexicon of Phavorinus. 
 
 Lives of Saints. 
 
 A book called the Pastoral Flute, avXog rotpmxos. 
 
 I$i£\iov KuXovf/Avov ©yzctpcig. 
 
 A small MS. of Prayers. 
 
 BXa^oj. 
 
 BovXyapiug ccffocvru,. 
 
 r. 
 
 Gregory of Nazianzum. Various copies.. 
 
 Holy Scripture. 
 
 TspcMrtftov (BXoffcov elg ro\ (Aerzapoy.oyMct. MS. 
 
 Galen. 
 
 Gregory of Nyssa. 
 
 Ta.Qoiri'h 1 " <pi\<x,}ii\(pitt.g itip\ (r^itr^dTHtuv. MS. 
 
 Tpriyopiov " Kopetriov xccro\ Aotrivuv. MS. 
 
 Treatises of Gerasimus. 
 
 Harmony of Scripture. 
 
 Topoiovy on o TLu7ra,g kou o 'Nlucipid strip o 'AvriwurTog- MS. 
 
 Grammar of Gaza 13 . 
 
 (7) Blemmides lived in the middle of the thirteenth century. His logic was pub- 
 lished in 1605, by JVegelin. 
 
 (8) Theodore Balsamon, of the twelfth century. Cave, Hist. Lit. 5g6. 
 
 (9) Of Thcophylact. "Achridis in Bulgaria archiepiscopus 10/0 clarusj quern 
 inde Bulgarium vocant." Fab. B. G. vii. 586. 
 
 (10) Gabriel Severus, metropolitan of Philadelphia ; " a bare-faced Metousiast." 
 Covell. Rise of Transulstantiation. 
 
 (11) Coresius, a friend of Goar. Euchol. 678. 
 
 (12) "That the Pope and Mahomet are the Antichrist." n*V*s, "the Pope;" 
 irct7rcis, " a priest." 
 
 (13) On which Erasmus read Lectures at Cambridge. 
 

 %F£'?™^ 
 
 m 
 
 (10) 
 
 CATALOGUE OF BOOKS 
 
 A. 
 
 Demosthenes. 
 
 Dio, and Herodian. 
 
 Psalms of David. 
 
 Af^oca-KccXioci ' dictcpogaiv ug ret zctrcc Kvgia,x,yjv. 
 
 Diogenes Laertius. 
 
 AictfActvrri pvtriov. (sic.) 
 
 Dositheus. 
 
 Dionysius the Areopagite. MS. 
 
 Aiccrccyoc) yctfAou ^ccfCOV/jX -ttcctpioc^ov. 
 
 Ai7iyri<rig {Aspizri rqg 7ra,Xociclg 'nrropicov (sic), acti Tporu(ng <p<Xo<ro<p&u 
 
 vtt\p (perhaps vep)) rov Seopot^ov 'Wgwoov. MS. 
 Old and New Testament. 
 
 Aoyuctrixov* 'lajccvvov JS&xkou KamrravrivO'TroXesug. 
 The Grammar of Daniel. 
 
 Gospels. 
 
 Eustathius. 
 
 Epiphanius. 
 
 Epictetus. 
 
 Euclid. 
 
 Etymologicon. 
 
 Eusebius. 
 
 Encyclopaedia. Four volumes. 
 
 Selections from different Fathers. 
 
 Euchologium. 
 
 'EZoftoXoyrircigiov 3 . MS. 
 
 Tract on Baptism. 
 
 TerpasvuyyiXiov 4 . 
 
 Exposition of the Apocalypse. 
 
 (1) Instructions respecting the Lord's Day. 
 
 (2) Veccus, or Beccus, patriarch of Constantinople. 
 
 (3) A Form of Confession, and Direction to Penitents. Covell, 260. 
 
 (4) See Du Cange in v. Ei)*yysA«>v. 
 
IN THE PATMOS LIBRARY. 
 
 (11) 
 
 Eogro'ko'yiCL. 
 
 Euripides. 
 
 'E-TTitrxz^tg 'TTveufjcccriKov ir^oc, cco-fovy. Visit of a Confessor to a sick person. 
 
 Zonaras. 
 
 Hesiod. 
 
 Herodian. 
 
 Herodotus. 
 
 Z. 
 
 H. 
 
 0. 
 
 Themistius 8 , wsgi <pv(rtx,ng. 
 
 Theodoret. 
 
 Theophrastus. 
 
 Theocritus. 
 
 Theodorus Ptochoprodromus 6 . 
 
 Theodorus's (abbot of Studium 7 ) Catechetical Discourses. 
 
 Theophylact. 
 
 Ozctrpov koKitizov. 
 
 Theotoki. 
 
 
 Thomas Magister 
 
 John Chrysostom. 
 
 Isidore's 8 (of Damiata) Letters. 
 
 Isocrates. 
 
 John of Damascus 9 . 
 
 I. 
 
 
 
 (5) Born in 317, in Paphlagonia. 
 
 (6) Perhaps one of the Poems of this Writer (see V'dl. Anec. Gr. ii. 243), or his 
 Exposition of Sacred Hymns. See Lamb. 1. v. p. 277. He lived in the beginning 
 of the twelfth century. 
 
 (7) A monastery at Constantinople. Theodore was born in 759. " II passe pour 
 un des grands Saints de ce siecle-la parmi Messieurs les Imaginaires ; qu'il me soit 
 permis de me servir de ce terme, mille fois plus dou.\ que celui d'Iconolatres." Bayle. 
 Rep. des Lettres, Mars 1686. 
 
 (8) " One of the most valuable men of the fifth century." Jortin, E. H. iv. 1 13, 
 
 (9) Died 750. The last of the Greek Fathers. 
 
■■■■■■■■■■■■ 
 
 VaT-^ 
 
 (12) 
 
 CATALOGUE OF BOOKS 
 
 Justin (trrogixov). 
 
 John Philoponus, n^ noo-poTTOi'iag 1 . 
 The same, etg ra 'AvocXvrixoc. 
 Justin Martyr. 
 
 Justinian, Kocvovsg rcuv kyiw Awotrro'kav. 
 John Stobseus. 
 Julius Pollux. 
 
 Other Treatises of John Philoponus. 
 Isaac 2 , bishop of Nineveh; ra, evgefovrcc, a,<rxr,Tixa.. 
 Josephus. 
 
 'lo-fAoiriX 3 zoctoc. MS. " Against Mahometanism." 
 John of Damascus. 
 
 la/ocvvov* (Tj/oXoMrrtxov jyyovfisvov 2<va ogovg. 
 Hippocrates. Aphorisms. 
 
 K. 
 YLogvlictkiag ireg) -^vy/ig. 
 The Logic of the same. 
 Cyril. 
 Coresius 5 . 
 
 Kctroixovfyjvov atokoyici xccto, Aarimv, 
 Callimachus. 
 
 KXeofjuri^ovg xvxXtxri Seagtct. 
 YLugtaxodgofuov . 
 
 (1) See the remark of Lambecius on the title of this work, lib. i. p. 139. The 
 Alexandrine Grammarian nourished in the early part of the seventh century after 
 Christ. Vossius gives a different date : De Philosoph. Sec. c. 17. The name of John 
 Philoponus was afterwards assumed by Le Clerc. 
 
 (2) Lived in the sixth century. 
 
 (3) Cantacusenus wrote, in 1360, a work on this subject. 
 
 (4) John Climacus, called Scholasticus. This is probably his Life, written by 
 Daniel, monk of Raith. 
 
 (5) A Constantinopolitan divine ; and friend of Goar. Euch.QjQ. 
 (<5) See Du Cange, Gloss. Graec. p. 771. 1. 
 
IN THE PATMOS LIBRARY. 
 
 (13) 
 
 KuXXiygaCpia,. 
 Clemens Alexandrinus. 
 
 A. 
 
 Liturgies. 
 
 Lucian. 
 
 Lexica. 
 
 Treatises against the Roman Church. 
 
 M. 
 Macarius. Homilies. 
 
 Michael Psellus 7 e\g rc\ per utyv enact. MS. 
 Macarius. Various treatises. 
 Meletius on the power of the Pope. 
 
 MsX?7 ftO:rjTpiWV iVViO,. 
 
 Melissa 8 . 
 
 Merewgaiv ft eg) eyyeiglhiov. 
 
 M<x,vot<r<r?i rav qXiccdov lyxcupiov etg 'AXefav^ov 'Y-v^Xavr^. Encomium 
 
 on Prince Ypsilante. 
 Maximus Planudes. 
 Matthew Blastares 9 . 
 Meletius. Geography. 
 
 N. 
 
 Nectarius 10 . 
 Nicephorus Gregoras. 
 
 NofAlXOV (3ct(Tl'At%0V. MS. 
 
 Noftoxuvoveg ' . 
 
 O. 
 
 CEcumenius. 
 
 Olympiodorus etg rot, fjuerecogcc rov ' AgiCToreXovg 'Oftrigoxivrga, 12 xou 
 xevrgwveg. 
 
 (7) Of the eleventh century. 
 
 (8) Antonius Melissa lived about 760. Fab. Bib. Grcec. ix. 744. " a studio colligendi 
 MiXio-o-a., sive Apis, dictus est." 
 
 (9) Of the fourteenth century. 
 
 (10) Patria Cretensis, defunctus anno 1665. Fab. ix, 310. 
 
 (11) Lamb. 1. vi. p. 51. 
 
 (12) Homerici centones. 
 
 VOL. III. g 
 

 (14) CATALOGUE OF BOOKS 
 
 Acts of Synods. 
 
 Plutarch. 
 
 Pausanias. 
 
 Pindar. 
 
 HoXefAog kvsvu,utixo$. 
 
 Polyeenus. 
 
 TloirjToov rcov 7rccXcaorocrco)i yeugytzoi, fiovzoXixu, xcti yvvfAtxJc . 
 
 Uocregixov. MS. 
 
 Ylerpoc (rxccvdccXov. 
 "PrirogtKri ^pcoutyov. 
 
 'PaXivov rofAoi — 15. 
 
 P. 
 
 2. 
 
 Catenae Patrum on the Psalms and Matthew. 
 
 Sophocles. 
 
 Suidas. 
 
 HvfAewv QetrtrccXoviK'/jg. 
 Simplicius. 
 
 ^vvooizog vofjiog. 
 
 'SqfAStwo'eig didcty/av. MS. 
 
 ^vvTccyfAct* pcuroc cc^v^cov. 
 
 ^vfjuCpuvKX, rtjg ygcttpjig. 
 
 H l vvs<riov tirurroXugiov. 
 
 Catena Patrum on the Octateuch. 
 
 T. 
 
 Tcc^ycc T7\g 'Tturriag Trig Yapaizrig iKK'kri<ricig. 
 
 (1) Notes on Homilies, 
 
 (2) Respecting this controversy (concerning unleavened bread), see the note in 
 Lamb. I. iii. p. 65. 
 
 (3) Propugnaculum Fidei. Fab. R. G. viii. 86. It was edited at Paris in 1658. 
 
 (4) Perhaps, TW<*ov t>?s yosA>i<r<«<rT<>c>is uzohavfa'ccs &c. " The order of reading the 
 service." Lamb. I. v. 285. 
 
IN THE PATMOS LIBRARY. 
 0>. 
 
 (15) 
 
 Photius. 
 Philo Judseus. 
 
 X. 
 
 XgiHrocvQcv Nora^a. 
 
 ~Kgurro(pogov zy%e(gi($io», on the Procession of the Holy Spirit. 
 
 Chrysostom on the Psalms. 
 
 Volumes relating to the Psalms. 
 
 a 
 
 QzsXXov ZCCTCC. 
 
 KATAAOrOS rSv \v BEMBPANAI2 6 BIBAION. 
 
 A. 
 
 Canons of the Holy Apostles. 
 Athanasius, without a beginning. 
 
 ' ' A^offroXog . 
 
 AffogovfjL.svu ttiC 3-g/a? ypctCptjc. 
 Exposition of the Acts of Apostles. 
 Anastasius of Sinai. 
 Canons 8 of the Apostles and Fathers. 
 The Panoplia 9 Dogmatica of Alexius Comnenus. 
 
 (5) Treatises of some of the Fathers. 
 
 (6) " A more common form among the later Greeks," says Sahnasius, " than 
 
 (7) Perhaps the Work of Theodoret, entitled QioSu^rov ug rk oL^o^x t?s B-uag'y^x^ii ■ 
 or from Maximus, who died in 66*2. See the first volume of his Works. 
 
 (8) See Lamb. l.iv. p. 197. 
 
 (9) See Fabricius, viii. 329. Bib. Gr. 
 
^^^H 
 
 I ■ 
 
 (16) 
 
 CATALOGUE OF MANUSCRIPTS 
 
 The Exposition 1 , by Zonaras, of the Canones, or Sacred Hymns, of 
 Joannes Damascenus. 
 
 ' AirotrroXoevayy iXiov ' . 
 
 B. 
 
 T$CCO~tX£tUV TTSgh uvag^ov . 
 
 BcuriXeiov rov ^lyctXov hoypctriHr} 7ravo7rXtcx.. 
 
 Lives of Saints. 
 
 Basil. 9 vols. 
 
 Basil on the Hexaemeron. 1 vols. 
 
 The same on the Psalms. '2 vols. 
 
 The same on Isaiah. 
 
 The Ascetica 3 of the same. 
 
 JSovXyagtug . 2 vols. 
 
 B<£x/of TovgKizov. 
 
 r. 
 
 Ypriyopico b ru QeoXoy&i ffypXia ztg ro " ttuXiv Ir/trovg," zu) ug ro 
 
 Of the same author. 9 vols. 
 Of the same, with Scholia. 
 
 Tg&xprjg rrjg Setcig fyrrjfAciru. 
 
 Ypnyoplov c> rov QsoXoyov ivcc (BiQXiov, ro oto7ov uvea ypcc-^i^ov rov 
 
 fioxriX&ojg ' AAef /ou rov ¥*.o(JL,vrjvov, rov idiov ygcc-^>tf/,ov. 
 Gregory of Nyssa. 
 
 (1) Kxvow; ecm<rra.(nft,»i. See Lamb. I. ill - p. 3Q, and the Notes. Zonaras lived 
 in 1120. 
 
 (2) See Du Cange, Glos. Gr. in voce ; and Goar, Euchol. 921. 
 
 (3) " Basil was a grand promoter of an ascetic life : all the monks and nuns in the 
 Greek Church are everywhere of his order." Covell. p. 251. 
 
 (4) See this title in the Printed Books, p. xi. 
 
 (5) Gregory of Nazianzum ; " cui post Johannem Apostolum pro peculiari pane- 
 gyrico, et x«t £|o^>iv, Theologi cognomen adhnesit." Muratori. 
 
 (Q) " A work of Gregory Nazianzen, which is in the hand-writing of the king 
 Alexius Comnenus. His own hand-writing." 
 
IN THE PATMOS LIBRARY. 
 
 Exposition of Holy Scripture. 
 
 Gregory the Theologue. 1 vols. 
 
 Of the same, Epistles. 
 
 Tpnyooiov rov S&oXoyov rirgourriyoiv ifyywic,. 
 
 Gregory of Nyssa, and others of the Fathers, on the Lord's Prayer. 
 
 Orations of Gregory Nazianzen. 
 
 Exposition on the Epistle to the Romans. 
 
 A. 
 
 Demetrius Gemistus 7 , reg) rtjg Iv piyct.'hn ixxXtiffia rov vurgiKgxfiv 
 
 Xsiroupytotg . 
 Aiovvtriov rov Agzioirccyirov. 
 Aiodoogov 'St/tsXitvrov 'IcrrogtKOV. 
 
 E. 
 Gospels. Various copies. 
 ILvuyyzXizr) crvptpuviu. 
 Commentary on the Psalms. 
 Interpretation of the Old Testament. 
 'ElaTOOTgAa^a oXov rov ypovov. 
 Commentary on one of the Gospels. 
 Ecclesiastical History of Eusebius. 
 'Effoafyj, 9 Xoyoi hutyogoi. 
 
 0. 
 (doiXao~<riov w rov u££u zou ' Avrioyov. 
 Theodoret on the Psalms. 
 Theodore, abbot of Studium. 
 
 I. 
 'l6j<rr,(p u Rgvevvtov Koyoi hcapogoi. 
 
 (17) 
 
 (7) Deacon and prothonotary in Constantinople. 
 
 (8) See Goar, Euchol. p. 436. 
 
 (9) Ephraem, or Ephraim, born at Nisibis in Mesopotamia. See Lamb. 1.1. p. 117- 
 
 (10) Abbot of a monastery in Libya. Cave, Hist. Ecc. 
 
 (11) Lived about 1420. A Byzantine monk. 
 

 
 
 (18) CATALOGUE OF MANUSCRIPTS 
 
 Theological Enchiridion of John of Damascus. 
 Exposition of the History of Job. 
 
 'laccvvov 1 rov o\QQ>oL qyovfAivov rrjg 'Fatdov. 
 
 The same. 
 
 Isidore. Epistles. 
 
 'Iwavv?? 2 ra SsoXoyoj woigu&'kritrsig. 
 
 'la-oca^ oc££oi rov ~%vpov Xoyoi utrtcririKOi. 
 
 'laicurrity 4 fiatrikiag 'hda/v j3iog. 
 
 On the Ten Categories. 
 
 John of Damascus. 
 
 John Scylitza 5 . 
 
 , Ia,rgo<ro<pici b . 3 vols. 
 
 KccvovccPtov. 
 
 K. 
 
 A. 
 
 Various Discourses. 
 
 Discourses of Chrysostom and others on Lent. 
 
 M. 
 
 Maximus, <jreg) awoppriray rtjg Seiccg ygciffig. 
 
 M.<x-%iu.'QV rov oU/oXoyijTOV %va Avyov<rrtvov, "Svpww rt rov vzov §eo\oyov, 
 y.r/A rivsg vzcc^ou 'Foopavov (BaonXiag 7 . 
 
 (1) Perhaps the Epistle of John the abbot of Raith to John Clinacus. Lamb. I. iv. 
 p. 185. 
 
 (2) n#§«*>i»Ve<j , Prayers. St. John is called in the Menaea, 'A§#»iy«s t*<; SioAoyi'xs. 
 
 (3) Lived in the sixth century. 
 
 (4) " Historia Judaica de Barlaamo eremita, et Josapho rege Indiae." Fab. ix. 737. 
 
 (5) John Scylitza, a Thracesian by birth, wrote an Epitome of History. Lamb. 
 I ii. p. 578. 
 
 (6) Collection from the writings of Hippocrates, Galen, and Meletius. 
 
 (7) For an account of Symeon, see Leo Allat. deSym. Scriptis, from p. 143 to 1/0. 
 Maximus died in 662. Ntx^xi, novella; , of Romanus ; see Du Cange in voce. 
 
IN THE PATMOS LIBRARY. 
 
 MeXtrtov* ^vgriyov pzraipgocc-rov, Discourses on the Twelve Months. 
 
 14 vols. 
 Imperfect Menaeum. 
 Menaea for the whole Year. 12 vols. 
 
 N. 
 N;.*?jra 9 J,sppaiv eig to koltu, looocvvfiv. 
 
 NofMXOV. 
 
 Nicolaus, archbishop of Constantinople. Letters, and some Expositions 
 of Scripture. 
 
 n. 
 
 Life of Pachomius 1o . 
 n.ccrsgi:ict n . 4 vols. 
 UctvXov rov opo'koyrirov. 
 Ylctv/i'yvgtxov '". 
 Acts of the Apostles 13 . 
 
 (19) 
 
 2. 
 
 ^vvu^ocPifrrrjg 1 *. 2 vols. 
 Catena Patrum on Isaiah. 
 Also on Pentateuch. 
 
 ^uvodwv KCCVOVtg. 
 
 UrovVirov (perhaps of Theodore). 
 
 Tgicodiov ccrsXsg . 
 
 T. 
 
 (8) Meletins Syrigus, Cretensis, (Fab. ix. 308.) lived in l6"38. 
 (y) Metropolitan of Serrae in Macedonia, about the year 1077- 
 
 (10) Died in the middle of the fourth century. 
 
 (11) " Variae adhortationes et narrationes ex variis scriptis et vitis Patrum. Fab. ix. 312." 
 
 (12) Liber Ecclesiasticus. Du Cange in voce. See also Cave, De Lib. Eccl. Grcecorum. 
 
 (13) A MS. of Pachymer, who lived in the middle of the thirteenth century, is 
 omitted in this Catalogue. Possevin mentions it. Fab. vii. 77<5. 
 
 (14) Synaxariorum Scriptor. Du Cange in voce. 
 
 (15) See Du Cange, Gloss, in voce; and Cave, De Lib. Ecc. Graecorum. 
 
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^H 
 
 
 ■■■■ 
 
 (20) 
 
 MANUSCRIFfS IN THE PATMOS LIBRARY. 
 
 'X^ocKorjg 1 fl-££< km a,Khuv k^iroov. 
 
 X. 
 
 Chrysostom. 8 vols. 
 
 (1) Perhaps from Theodore of Studium. See Yriarte, Cat. Bib. Mat, p. 18. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
I 
 
 CHAP. I. 
 
 VOYAGE FROM SYRIA TO EGYPT. 
 
 The Romulus makes preparation for sailing — The Author takes leave 
 of Djezzar — Further Account of Acre — Existence of the Pointed 
 Arch in the Holy Land, and elsewhere in the East — Anecdote of 
 Deare, an English Sculptor — Voyage to Egypt — Accident which 
 befel the Romulus — Arrival at Aboukir — The Braakel receives 
 Orders to convoy a Squadron to Marseilles — French Prisoners 
 — Author narrowly escapes being conveyed to France — Discovery 
 of the Worship of Astaroth upon Mount Libanus — Dangerous 
 Passage of the Bar at the Mouth of the Nile — Fort St. Julian — 
 State of Affairs in Rosetta — Price of Provisions — Manufacture 
 of Coffee — Curious Remains of Pointed Arches — Probable Con- 
 sequence of the Interruption of Mecca Pilgrimage — Exhibition of 
 the Psylli, or Serpent- Eaters. 
 
 1 he most active preparation for sailing was made upon 
 
 our return to the Romulus frigate. Upwards of sixty 
 
 vol. in. b bullocks 
 
 CHAP. I. 
 

 2 
 
 ACRE. 
 
 ration for 
 sailing. 
 
 The Author 
 takes leave 
 of Djezzar. 
 
 chap. i. bullocks were on board, and forty more were afterwards 
 The Romulus added to the number. Every exertion was then made to get 
 
 makes prepa- 
 
 in the necessary supply of fresh water. We bought great 
 part of the freight of melons from the Jaffa boat, to carry 
 to the fleet ofFAboukir; and a more acceptable donation 
 can hardly be imagined, for almost all its supplies came 
 from England : fruit and vegetables were particularly 
 scarce. 
 
 In our last visit to old Djezzar, we found his health 
 visibly on the decline; but there was nothing he seemed 
 more anxious to conceal from the knowledge of his 
 subjects. The well-known fable of the dying lion was 
 constantly present to his imagination ; and no one better 
 understood its moral application. Like the generality of 
 antient fables, it is, in fact, strikingly applicable to the 
 nolicy and manners of Eastern nations '. Although the 
 repose and stillness of his charem were better suited 
 to the preservation of his life than the public duties 
 of his palace, he knew too well the consequences of a 
 rumour purporting his inability to transact the affairs of 
 his government, and therefore more readily granted audi- 
 ence to persons requesting admission to his presence ; con- 
 tinuing his usual practice of cutting watch-papers, but being 
 less ostentatious of his bodily vigour, and the exhibition of 
 
 his 
 
 (l) In the tim< uH Aristophanes there were three kinds of fables ; the Lybian^ 
 which were the moat antient, the Sybaritic, and the iEsopian. 
 
ACRE. 
 
 his Herculean strength 4 . We found him, as before, with 
 his feet bare, and a bottle of water by his side, but a more 
 than ordinary covering of turbans appeared about his head 
 and neck. Having thanked him for the many obligations 
 he had conferred upon us, he inquired concerning our late 
 journey, and seemed to possess great knowledge of the 
 country, as well as some degree of information respecting 
 its antient history. Adverting to the dispute which 
 took place between the Author and one of the escort in the 
 Plain of Esdraelon, (of which he had been informed,) 
 he cautioned us against the imprudence of striking an 
 Arab, unless with power to put him instantly to death; 
 adding, "if you had been any where but in Djezzar's 
 dominions, and under his protection, you would not have 
 lived to tell the story. I know the inhabitants of this 
 country better than any man, and have long found that they 
 are not to be governed by halves. I have been deemed 
 severe ; but I trust you have found my name respected, and 
 even beloved, notwithstanding my severity." This last 
 observation was strictly true ; for, in spite of all his cruelty, 
 such was the veneration in which they held the name of 
 Djezzar in many parts of the Holy Land, that many of the 
 Arabs would have sacrificed their lives for him. As we- 
 were about to take leave, he acknowledged, for the first 
 time, that he did not feel himself well, and complained of 
 want of sleep ; asking us if we perceived any change in his 
 
 health. 
 
 CHAP. I. 
 
 (2) See p. 361 of the last Volume. 
 

 ACRE. 
 
 CHAP. I. 
 
 Further 
 Account of 
 Acre. 
 
 health. His Interpreter told us that he had never before 
 known an instance of a similar confession ; and augured, 
 from this circumstance, that he would not long survive ; 
 which proved true, although his death did not immediately 
 follow. His last moments were characteristic of his former 
 life. The person whom he fixed upon for his successor, was 
 among the number of his prisoners. Having sent for this 
 man, he made known his intentions to him ; telling him, at 
 the same time, that he would never enjoy peaceful dominion 
 while certain of the princes of the country existed. These 
 men were then living as hostages in Djezzar's power. "You 
 will not like to begin your reign," said he, " by slaughtering 
 them; I will do that business for you:" accordingly, 
 ordering them to be brought before him, he had them all 
 put to death in his presence. Soon afterwards he died ; 
 leaving, as he had predicted, the undisturbed possession of 
 a very extensive territory to his successor, Ismael Pasha ; 
 described by English travellers, who have since visited Acre, 
 as a very amiable man, and in every thing the very reverse 
 of this Herod of his time. 
 
 After our last interview with Djezzar, we made a final 
 survey of the town of Acre, particularly of its market, which 
 is well supplied with most of the Eastern commodities. 
 Cotton is the principal export. Its tobacco is very highly 
 esteemed; and coarse muslins, remarkable for the durability 
 of their dye, are sold very cheap. The inhabitants make 
 use of pipes garnished with a swathing of silk or linen, for 
 the purpose of absorbing water. This, being kept moist, 
 cools the smoke, as it rises through the wooden tube, by the 
 
 constant 
 
ACRE. 
 
 constant evaporation. It is a method of smoking less 
 injurious than the Arab custom of using the Hooka, which 
 generally consists of nothing more than a hollow gourd 
 containing water, and two pieces of cane ; but the whole 
 of the smoke, instead of being drawn into the mouth, 
 is thereby inhaled upon the lungs, and sometimes 
 this practice causes asthma, where it has been long con- 
 tinued'. Mariti, in the account of his journey from Acre 
 to Mount Carmel, mentions the exportation to Venice 
 of the sand of the River Belus, for the glass-houses of 
 that city. " It is," says he 2 , " to this river, Belus, that 
 we are indebted for those magnificent plates of glass which 
 Venice manufactured, to embellish the apartments of Eu- 
 rope." The Arabs call this river Kardanc. We saw in 
 Acre several individuals engaged in manufacturing the kind 
 of leather known in England under the vulgar appel- 
 lation of Red Morocco; and as the whole process was 
 
 publicly 
 
 CHAP. I. 
 
 (1) Shaw mentions this custom (See Travels, p. 234. Lond, \7$7- -Note 9.) He says 
 the Arabs call it Shrob el Douhhun, that is to say, " drinking of smoke." It is a 
 universal practice, not only in the Levant, but over all the Mediterranean. Like other 
 intoxicating habits, when once acquired, it is not readily abandoned. The effect produced 
 resembles that of a dram ; causing, at the moment, distention of the nerves and vessels 
 of the head, particularly of the eyes. The Greek who tra\elled with us, after thus 
 conveying all the smoke he could collect from a well-lighted pipe into his lungs, could 
 retain it there for a few -econd-, and sometimes drink a glass of water, before he 
 rendered back the smoke, in curling volumes, through his lips and nostrils. The 
 Mahometans are so delighted by the effect of inhaling smoke, that, when they have 
 emptied their lungs of it, they exclaim, " Alhandillah," God be praised ! 
 
 (2) Mariti's Travels through Cyprus, Syria, and Palestine,, vol. II. p. 124. 
 Lond. 179 J. 
 

 ■■■■■ 
 
 wmmm 
 
 CHAP. I. 
 
 Existence of 
 the Pointed 
 Arch in the 
 Holy Land ; 
 
 and elsewhere 
 in the East. 
 
 ACRE. 
 
 publicly exhibited, it may be regretted we did not pay more 
 attention to the articles made use of in preparing the dye, 
 which afforded the most lively and brilliant scarlet we had 
 ever beheld. The skins were constantly exposed, during 
 the operation, to the hottest beams of the sun, in the most 
 sultry season of the year. 
 
 Before we quit this account of Acre, it will be 
 proper to remark, that the two arches of a lofty build- 
 ing represented in the engraved view of the town, 
 belong to the edifice noticed by Le Bruyn '. The 
 pointed arches, so accurately delineated by that very able 
 artist, have been a stumbling-block in the way of certain 
 modern hypotheses concerning the origin of Gothic 
 architecture 5 . But these are, by no means, the only ex- 
 amples of the pointed style in the Holy Land, erected 
 anterior to the existence of such arches in England. The 
 Author has already enumerated others, which may be referred 
 to the age of Justinian 3 , if not of Constantine. There are 
 similar remains of equal antiquity in Cyprus and in Egypt. 
 The ignorance which would ascribe such works to the 
 labours of English workmen, in the time of the Crusades, 
 
 when 
 
 (1) See the engraving in Le Bruyn's Travels. 
 
 (2) And will continue to be so. Acre was taken by the Saracens, A. D. 1291 : 
 the Christians have never been permitted to gain a footing there since that event ; there- 
 fore the pointed arches noticed by Le Bruyn belong to an edifice which has been a 
 ruin during the last six hundred and twenty years. 
 
 (3) The author of " Munimenta Antiqua," notices pointed arches in an aqueduct 
 of Justinian. See vol. IV. p. J 5. Note 1. Lond. 1S05. The pointed arch is also seen in 
 aqueducts built by Trajan. 
 
ACRE. 
 
 when foreigners, or the pupils of foreigners, were employed 
 in England, for every undertaking of the kind, so late as the 
 reign of Henry the Eighth, is really lamentable ; nor is it 
 possible to devise more fallible conjecture than that which 
 attributes the origin of any style of architecture to the 
 North of Europe; whence, as it is observed by a late enter- 
 taining writer 4 , " Nothing ever came but the sword and 
 desolation." The statement of a few facts are sufficient, 
 in an instant, to overturn such visionary heresy. Not less 
 than six Oriental cities may be enumerated, where this 
 kind of architecture was formerly in use : these are, Nicotia 
 in Cyprus ; Ptolemais, Dio Cassarea, and Jerusalem, in the 
 Holy Land ; Rosetta, and Cairo, in Egypt. In all of these 
 there are remains of the pointed style, which relate to 
 a much earlier period than its introduction in England. 
 A further acquaintance with Oriental architecture will, 
 assuredly, bring to light many other instances than those 
 which have now been adduced. Not but that the pointed 
 style may have possessed, in the north of our island, a degree 
 of antiquity greater than even the advocates for its English 
 origin have ever dreamed of assigning to it. Masons were 
 first brought into England by a Monk, the preceptor of 
 the venerable Bede, about the middle of the seventh century, 
 together with the arts of painting and glazing 5 . About 
 
 this 
 
 CHAP. I. 
 
 (4) De Chateaubriand's Travels, vol. II. p. 124. Lond. 1811. 
 
 (5) " Benet the Monke, and maister of the reverend Beda, brought first the crafte of 
 Painting, Glasing, and Masons, into this land." Stow's Summary of the Chronicles of 
 England, pp. 27, 28. Lond. 1598. 
 

 BBS^H^^^^I iH^H^^H^H 
 
 ■■ 
 
 8 
 
 CHAP. I. 
 
 ACRE. 
 
 this time the monastery of Ely was founded, and the abbeys 
 of Abingdon, Chertsey, and Barking, were built l . The 
 monastery of Gloucester was also established 2 . But before 
 that time, Tona, upon the western coast of Scotland, was 
 the seat of letters : the writings of Adamnanus, its abbot, 
 have been often cited in these Travels. There can be no 
 doubt, therefore, but that an abbey church existed in- that 
 island prior to the foundation of the monastery at Ely. 
 Adamnanus was born in the beginning of the seventh 
 century 3 , at Rathboth, now called Raphoe, in the County of 
 Donegal, in Ireland; which country he left when he became 
 abbot of Iona 4 . As at that time the model of every 
 Christian sanctuary was derived from the Holy Land, and 
 generally from the Church of the Holy Sepulchre 5 , where 
 the pointed style may yet be discerned in the original cover- 
 ing of the Sepulchre itself, it is surely probable that Iona, 
 whose abbot drew up so accurate an account of all the holy 
 places, would preserve something in imitation of its most 
 sacred edifices. A short time previous to the journey which 
 
 constitutes 
 
 (1) Stow's Summary of the Chronicles of England, pp. 27, 28. Lond. \5QS. 
 
 (2) Ibid. 
 
 (3) A. D. 626. 
 
 (4) Butler's Lives of the Saints, vol. IX. p. 303. Edin. 1799- 
 
 (5) Witness the interesting though almost unnoticed model of the Church of the 
 Holy Sepulchre, called " the Round Church," in Cambridge, built by the Knights of 
 Jerusalem, and shewing precisely the form of the building as it was in the seventh 
 century. See the Plan given by Adamnanus, apud Mabillon. Acta Sanctor. Ordin,. 
 Benedicti, Seec. 3. Par. 2. p. 505. L. Par. 1672. 
 
 (6) See Pococke's Travels, and the Engravings already given in this work. 
 
A C R E. 
 
 constitutes the subject of the present work, the author 
 visited Iona ; and in the numerous vestiges of ecclesiastical 
 splendor which he then observed in the rude bas-reliefs 
 belonging to the sepulchral monuments of that island, 
 the granite coffins, but, above all, the remains of the 
 pointed Gothic style 8 , a traveller there might rather 
 imagine himself viewing antiquities belonging to the Holy 
 Land, and edifices erected by the mother of Constantine, 
 than of an ecclesiastical establishment upon a small island 
 in the Hebrides ; upon an island, too, which was already 
 thus distinguished, before the inhabitants of England could 
 be said to be converted to Christianity ; and at an aera 
 when the king of the East Angles was actually sending 
 into Burgundy for missionaries to preach the Christian 
 faith 9 . The state of Iona indeed, at that period, can only 
 be accounted for, from the intercourse which was then 
 maintained with the Holy Land by all parts of the Christian 
 world. As a seat of learning, Iona was so renowned, that 
 its abbot was appointed to act as ambassador from Ireland 
 to an English monarch 10 . It is well known that Bede 
 
 borrowed 
 
 9 
 
 CHAP. I. 
 
 (8) See Pennant's Hebrides, Plates xxn and xxin. p. 253. Chester, 1774. 
 
 (9) Stow's Summary, &c. p. 27. Lond. 15Q8. 
 
 (10) Bede, as cited by Mabillon, mentions the embassy of Adamnanus to Ealdfrith 
 (called Alfrid by Bede) a king of the Northumbrians. This event took place a short 
 time before the abbot's death, in 705. " Adamnanum mortuum esse paullo post suam 
 legalionem ad Aldfridum, anno dccv defunctum, teste Beda in HI. v. cap. 1 9- o,nno regni 
 sui vigesimo necdum impleto." (Vid. Mabillon. Acta Ord. S. Bened. Saec. 3. Par. 2. 
 p. 500. L. Par. 1672.) 
 
 VOL. III. C 
 

 •%*%'*• :w;*t& y : 
 
 "^(r.v*' vK^x.i^ 
 
 iHMI^MHBi 
 
 10 
 
 CHAP. I. 
 
 ACRE. 
 
 borrowed his account of the Holy Land from Arculfe's 
 testimony, as afforded by Adamnanus. We may therefore 
 with justice ask, Has it been proved, that, prior to the 
 introduction of the Saxon arch in the southern provinces of 
 our island, no instance of the pointed style adorned those 
 ecclesiastical establishments in, the north, which, having no 
 connexion with the Saxons, erected their edifices at an earlier 
 period, and after a different model ? It is conceived that 
 this question cannot be answered, by urging that the 
 pointed style originated from the intersection of circular 
 arches. The plain fact of the existence of pointed arches 
 before the period assigned for their invention in England, is 
 an existing and stubborn document, which no conjecture can 
 supersede 1 . How shall we otherwise explain the appearance 
 of pointed arches in Egypt and in the Holy Land, presented 
 by the examples already alluded to ? Even with reference to 
 buildings of the twelfth century, particularly the remarkable 
 
 instance 
 
 (l) See the very recent but most satisfactory elucidation of this subject by the Rev. 
 T. Kerrich, read before the Society of Antiquaries, May 11, 18, and June 1, 1809, and 
 since published in the XVIth volume of their Archaeologia. Speaking of the supposed 
 English origin of Gothic architecture, Mr. Kerrich says, " The late Mr.. Gilpin, 
 I believe, first broached this notion, (See Gilpin's Northern Tour, vol. I.) at least he 
 first delivered it to the world in print : he had never been out of England j he was 
 therefore excusable : but how people who had travelled, and had visited the other 
 countries of Europe, could patronize such a notion, is really surprising: they must know, 
 unless they voluntarily shut their eyes, that throughout the Low Countries, from St. 
 Omer's to Cologne, the old churches are all Gothic; and many of them immense structures, 
 and wonderfully beautiful; such as the cathedrals of Antwerp and Mechlin, St. Gudule's 
 
 at 
 
ACRE. 
 
 11 
 
 instance afforded by the mosque and sepulchre of Sultan chap, nx. 
 Zahir, near the eastern gate of Cairo 2 , will the historian, who 
 records facts only, rest satisfied with this puerile conjecture, 
 as to their origin ; that the Caliph, although an intolerant 
 Mahometan, perhaps employed some Christian slaves for his 
 workmen ? Even supposing this were true, those men must 
 have been supernaturally inspired with architectural know- 
 ledge for the undertaking. 
 
 Acre has been described as the scene of a very interest- 
 ing story in English history, which is said however to have 
 no foundation in truth. It is related by Speed 5 , that Eleanor, 
 wife of Edward the First, drew the poison from her 
 husband's arm, when poignarded by an assassin ; applying 
 her lips to the wound. " Pitie it is," says Fuller 4 , "so 
 pretty a storie should not be true (with all the miracles in 
 Love's legends)! and sure he shall get himself no credit, who 
 undertaketh to confute a passage so sounding to the honour 
 
 of 
 
 at Brussels, and St. Bavon's at Ghent, and numberless others. The whole of France is 
 covered with them, from Calais to Lyons, and quite to the banks of the Rhine, where 
 the cathedral of Strasburg is eminently light and beautiful. The cathedral and church of 
 St. Nicaise at Rheims, the cathedrals of Amiens, Rouen, and Evreux, are also well 
 known as buildings of extraordinary dimensions and elegance in this style of architecture. 
 According to Ponz's Voyage de Espaha, and the writings of other travellers, the case is the 
 very same in every kingdom of Spain." Mr. Kerrich then proves its existence, and 
 describes its remains, over all Germany and Italy. See Observations on Gothic Buildings 
 and Architecture, by the Rev. T. Kerrich, Principal Librarian of the University of Cam- 
 bridge, M.J. F. S.J. Jrchceologia, vol. XVI. p. 299, et seq. Lond. 1811. 
 
 (2) Vid. Museum Worsleyanum, p. 87. Lond. 1794. Caliph Zahir lived in the 
 twelfth century. 
 
 (3) See Speed's Hist, of Edward the First. 
 
 (4) Fuller's Historie of the Holy Warre, book iv. chap. 29. p. 220. Caml. 1651. 
 

 HHHH 
 
 
 12 
 
 CHAP. I. 
 
 Anecdote of 
 Deare, an 
 English 
 Sculptor. 
 
 Voyage to 
 Egypt. 
 
 VOYAGE FROM SYRIA 
 
 of the sex : yet can it not stand with what others have 
 WTitten 1 , — How the physician, who was to dresse his wounds, 
 spake to the Lord Edmund and the Lord John Voysie, to 
 take away Ladie Elenor out of the Prince's presence, lest 
 her pitie should be cruel towards him, in not suffering his 
 sores to be searched to the quick. And though she cried 
 out, and wrung her hands, ' Madame, said they, be con- 
 tented : it is better that one woman should weep a little 
 while, than that all the realm of England should lament 
 a great season:' and so they conducted her out of the place." 
 The tradition, however, which, after all, is not disproved by 
 the evidence Fuller has adduced, has given rise to one of the 
 finest specimens of modern sculpture existing in the world*: 
 and as it affords, perhaps, the only existing proof of the 
 surprising abilities of an English artist, snatched from the 
 pursuit of fame in the very opening of a career which might 
 have classed him with the best sculptors of -antient Greece, the 
 Author considers it a patriotic duty to pay some tribute to its 
 merit, and thereby to the memory of its author. 
 
 Our voyage from Acre was as prosperous as the former 
 one had been from Egypt. The serenity of the Mediterranean, 
 
 at 
 
 (1) See Fox, Martyrolog. pag. 337. 
 
 (2) The work of George Deare, who, at a very early period of life, attained to a 
 surprising degree of perfection in sculpture and design. He died a few years ago, at 
 Rome, at the very time when the first proofs of his genius began to obtain the patronage 
 necessary for its full development. The particular work alluded to, is a bas-relief, 
 executed in the marble of Carrara. It was purchased by Sir Corbet Corbet, an English 
 baronet, and belongs now to his collection. This brief allusion to a young artist, who 
 would have been an honour to his country, is perhaps the only biographical document 
 concerning him likely to be made public. 
 
TO EGYPT. 
 
 13 
 
 at this season of the year, is surprisingly contrasted with v chap.i. 
 the tremendous storms which accompany the vernal and 
 autumnal equinoxes. We steered for Egypt with every 
 sail extended, but were driven by such gentle breezes, that 
 the motion of the frigate was scarcely perceptible. On the 
 twenty-first of July, at seven o'clock p. m. we were under 
 weigh, and about ten came to anchor off Cape Carmel. 
 The next morning, at four a. m. we made sail again, and 
 continued our progress all that day and following night, 
 without any occurrence worth notice. On the morning 
 of July the twenty-fourth, at seven a. m. the Island of 
 Cyprus was visible, bearing n. n. w. distant ten or eleven 
 leagues. At five a. m. of the following morning, the same 
 island was still in view, and nearly at the same distance, 
 bearing n. and by e. 
 
 July the twenty-sixth, at seven p. m. we hailed the Thisbe 
 frigate. This day, being Sunday, we accompanied Captain Accident 
 
 which hefel 
 
 Culverhouse to the gun-room, to dine there with his officers, theRomuius. 
 according to his weekly custom, As we were sitting down to 
 dinner, the voice of a sailor employed in heaving the lead was 
 suddenly heard calling " half four!" The Captain, starting 
 up, reached the deck in an instant; and almost as quickly 
 putting the ship in stays, she went about. Every seaman on 
 board thought she would be stranded. As she came about, all 
 the surface of the water exhibited a thick black mud : this 
 extended so widely, that the appearance resembled an island. 
 At the same time, no land was really visible, not even from 
 the mast-head, nor was there any notice of such a shallow 
 in any chart on board. The fact is, as we learned 
 
 afterwards, 
 

 ■. *;sa..\<; 
 
 V-^.iiiv/^'ft*^^,-,^^*-: :;'*,-*•*; •*.v"» •'»;*« 
 
 
 ■■ 
 
 ■■ 
 
 |IUQBBBHHHn9BBBH9BflH|D 
 
 VOYAGE FROM SYRIA 
 
 afterwards, that a stratum of mud, extending for many 
 leagues off the mouths of the Nile, exists in a moveable deposit 
 near the coast of Egypt, and, when recently shifted by 
 currents, it sometimes reaches quite to the surface, so as to 
 alarm mariners with sudden shallows, where the charts 
 of the Mediterranean promise a considerable depth of water. 
 These, however, are not in the slightest degree dangerous. 
 Vessels no sooner touch them, than they become dispersed ; 
 and a frigate may ride secure, where the soundings would 
 induce an inexperienced pilot to believe her nearly aground. 
 In the evening of this day we made land, and saw the 
 eastern fort at the entrance of the Damiata branch of the 
 Nile, bearing n. w. distant seven or eight miles. 
 
 July the twenty-seventh, at ten a. m. we were employed 
 answering signals from the Heroine ; and it was very inter- 
 esting to us landsmen, to observe the facilitv with which the 
 commanders of frigates, separated from each other by such an 
 immense distance that their vessels were scarcely visible to 
 the naked eye, held a conversation with each other. We had 
 calm weather with light breezes during this and the following 
 day: no land visible. July the twenty-ninth, observed a 
 strange cutter to leeward, and land, bearing s. w. and by s. 
 supposed to be Cape Brule, distant six or seven miles. July 
 the thirtieth, about three p. m. we made land from the mast 
 head, which proved to be Cape Berelos, bearing s. s.w. distant 
 about ten or twelve miles, the town of Rosetta being at the 
 same time w. and by s. half s. distant ten or eleven miles. 
 
 July the thirty-first, a calm and a strong current com- 
 pelled us to anchor east of Rosetta, in five fathoms and 
 
 a half 
 
TO EGYPT. 
 
 15 
 
 to convoy a 
 Squadron to 
 Marseilles. 
 
 a half water. On the following morning, being the , chap, i. 
 
 first of August, at seven a. m. weighed, and made sail. 
 
 At four p.m. saw the fleet off Aboukir, and plainly ob- Arrival at 
 
 Aboukir. 
 
 served the Admiral's ship. The same evening, at eight 
 o'clock, came to anchor nearly in the station held by 
 the Romulus previous to her sailing for the coast of Syria. 
 Here we received the joyful intelligence concerning the 
 surrender of Cairo ; of which reports had reached us 
 in Syria. Presently after, Captain Clarke came alongside, 
 in the Braakel's barge, when, taking leave of our kind 
 friends, we sought once more, as it were, a comfortable 
 home, within his cabin. 
 
 We had not been here many days, before the Braakel TheBraakel 
 
 J J receives orders 
 
 received orders from the Admiral, Lord Keith, to convoy 
 the French prisoners captured at Rachmanie and the 
 different forts upon the Nile, including the garrison of 
 Cairo, to Marseilles ; and, at the same time, to take 
 in as many of those prisoners as possible, with their 
 artillery, arms, baggage, &c. and sail with all possible 
 expedition. So rapid were the measures adopted by 
 Captain Clarke for this purpose, that he was ready 
 before any of the other vessels appointed to convey the 
 prisoners had obtained their cargo ; and, making the signal 
 for sailing to all the convoy, he was ordered to proceed on 
 his voyage, without waiting for the other ships. The scene 
 which ensued on board the Braakel, upon the arrival of the French ph 
 
 . souers. 
 
 trench prisoners, baffles every effort of description. No 
 strolling players in a barn ever presented a more ludicrous 
 exhibition, or a better burlesque of the military character. 
 
 Voltaire, 
 

 
 16 
 
 CHAP. I. 
 
 ' 
 
 VOYAGE FROM SYRIA 
 
 Voltaire, dressed in a pasteboard helmet, with a laced coat 
 and long dirty ruffles, to represent, in one of his own plays, 
 the person of Alexander the Great, was a hero, compared 
 with some of the figures from the French army. There 
 were many who made their appearance upon the quarter- 
 deck with the most ghastly visages, beneath helmets, 
 of all colours, covered with horses' tails hanging about 
 their wrinkled cheeks and shrugged-up shoulders. Every 
 one imagined he should testify a proper degree of spirit, and 
 perhaps ingratiate himself with a British crew, by the ejacu- 
 lation of some English oath, as soon, as he set his foot upon 
 the deck. When they were all drawn up, in three lines, to 
 be reviewed, and assigned to their respective births, some of 
 them were found to be abandoned women, wretchedly dressed 
 in tattered habits of French soldiers. Other females, more 
 pitiable, came also in men's clothes; but these were Georgian 
 and Circassian girls, once the unfortunate tenants of Turkish 
 charems, and since the more lamentable slaves of the lowest 
 rabble of the French army. They were desirous to go 
 any where, rather than remain in Egypt. In that country 
 they were sure of being put to death, by the first Moslem 
 they might encounter. 
 
 As soon as matters were a little adjusted, and the 
 wounded men taken care of, among whom there were some 
 in such terrible condition that they died upon the following 
 day, a deputation from the prisoners waited upon the 
 Captain, to offer him the use of a band of music every 
 day during dinner, and requesting permission to exhibit 
 a club-darmes, for fencing every morning, and a comddie 
 
 every 
 
TO EGYPT. 
 
 17 
 
 CHAP. I. 
 
 every evening. Never was there any thing to equal 
 the gaiety and good-humour of these Frenchmen. All 
 animosity was laid aside ; singing, dancing, and acting, 
 became the order of the day ; even the wounded, when able 
 to come upon deck, shewed some signs of the joy which 
 animated their comrades in the thoughts of returning to 
 France. They would do any thing to gratify the English 
 officers and men. Sometimes, when their band played " God 
 save the King," the members of the theatrical party, in 
 the forecastle, sang out, in broken English, " Send him 
 victorious /" 
 
 Tne moment came, however, which was to create a pause 
 in all this mirth. The Braakel got under weigh; and a stiff 
 gale causing more motion than suited either the club-d 'armes or 
 the come 1 die, every Frenchman was indisposed. Nothing then 
 was heard but groans and curses. All the instruments were 
 out of tune, and the deck was soon destitute of every other 
 symptom of activity, except that which was manifested by the 
 ship's crew. It had been Captain Clarke's intention, in tacking 
 out of Aboukir Roads, to put us on board the Sultan Selim, the 
 famous three-decker, belonging to the Capudan Pasha, with 
 whom we were acquainted ; but this proved impracticable. 
 To our very great consternation, we found ourselves, on the 
 morning of the seventh of August, so far advanced in the 
 voyage to France, that we were already out of sight of the fleet. 
 The Captain told us there was only this alternative, to go esca P es Y™ 1 
 
 •*- •/ o conveyed to 
 
 with him to Marseilles, or to accept of a small boat, which France - 
 he would willingly give us, and run before the wind to the 
 Mouth of the Nile. The turbulent appearance of the sea 
 vol. in. x> did 
 
 Author 
 narrowly 
 
18 
 
 CHAP. I. 
 
 Discovery of 
 the Worship 
 of Venus 
 upou Mount 
 Libanus. 
 
 VOYAGE FROM SYRIA 
 
 did not at all tempt us to try so hazardous an experiment 
 as the last; for if we had done this, and had escaped the 
 consequences of our own ignorance among mountainous 
 waves, we should inevitably have perished in the surf 
 upon the coast. We therefore could only lament the loss 
 of our intended journey in Egypt, and retire into the cabin 
 with General La Grange, to whom we made known our 
 very embarrassing situation. While we were thus rumi- 
 nating upon the unexpected change in all our plans, a cry 
 upon deck announced that a sail was in sight, standing 
 towards Aboukir. This proved to be the Diadem, a 6 i-gun 
 ship, Captain Larmour, from Cyprus, with wood and water, 
 which presently drew near to us, and was hailed from the 
 Braakel. We requested a passage to the fleet: this was 
 granted, and with some difficulty we got on board. Here we 
 found Colonel Capper, the bearer of overland despatches from 
 India to the British army in Egypt. He gave us an account 
 of his very arduous expedition ; and communicated some 
 interesting particulars, concerning the existence of antient 
 Pagan superstitions in Mount Libanus, particularly those 
 of Venus. These were alluded to in the preceding "V olume ' ; 
 and as a renewal of the subject here might be deemed 
 irrelevant, the Author has reserved his observations upon 
 Colonel Capper's discovery for the Appendix 2 : it relates to 
 a very interesting relique of the antient mythology of 
 
 Syria. 
 
 Upon 
 
 (1) See Vol. II. p. 404. Note 1. 
 
 (2) See the Appendix to this Volume, No. H. 
 
TO EGYPT. 
 
 1.9 
 
 CHAP. I. 
 
 Upon our return to the fleet, Captain Larmour accompanied 
 Colonel Capper to the Admiral's ship ; and we revisited the 
 Ceres, where we found our valuable friend Captain Russel, 
 to the great grief of his officers and crew, and all who had 
 the happiness of knowing him, in such a state of indispo- 
 sition as put an end to every hope of his recovery. We 
 had much difficulty in obtaining a passage to Rosetta on 
 board one of the djerms, or boats belonging to the Nile ; 
 but, at length, permission was granted us to sail in one of 
 these vessels, from the Eurus, Captain Guion, who treated us 
 with that politeness we had so often experienced from the 
 officers of the British Navy. We left the Bay of Aboukir, Dangerous 
 
 ... '11 a i Passage of the 
 
 August the eighth, about ten o clock a. m. As we drew near Bar at the 
 
 -vt'i Mouth of 
 
 to the Rosetta mouth of the Nile, we observed that the signal- Nile 
 boat was not out*. So many lives had been lost upon the 
 bar by not attending to this circumstance 4 , and such positive 
 injunctions issued by the Commander-in-chief against at- 
 tempting to pass when the signal was removed, that we 
 supposed the Arabs belonging to the djerm would take us 
 back to the fleet. The wind was however against our return; 
 and the crew of the boat persisted in saying that a passage 
 was practicable. It was accordingly attempted ; but the 
 surf soon drove us back, and we narrowly escaped being 
 
 overwhelmed 
 
 the 
 
 (3) During the Egyptian expedition, a boat with a signal-flag was always anchored on 
 the outside of the mouth of the Nile, when the surf upon the bar was passable. 
 
 (4) Scarcely a day elapsed, during our first visit to Rosetta, in which some lives were 
 not sacrificed, owing to 'the inattention paid to the signal. It was even asserted, that 
 the loss of men at the mouth of the Nile, including those both of the army and navy, 
 who were here sacrificed, was greater than the total of our loss in all the engagements 
 that took place with the French troops in Egypt. 
 

 'tilfeii&'&ii. .W.fait^;*;^* *£vft***y*. aw{--*i-'ii-'.' : * 
 
 20 
 
 EGYPT. 
 
 CHAP. I. 
 
 overwhelmed by it. A second attempt was then made, nearer 
 to the eastern side of the river's mouth. We prevailed 
 upon some English sailors, who were on board, to let the 
 Arabs have their own way, and not interfere with the ma- 
 nagement of the djerm, however contrary it might seem to 
 their usual maxims. Never was there a more fearful sight, 
 nor a scene of greater confusion, than ensued when we 
 reached the middle of the tremendous surf a second time. 
 The yells of the Arabs, the oaths of the sailors, the roaring 
 of the waters, the yawning gulphs occasionally disclosing 
 to us the bare sand upon the bar, while we were tossed 
 upon the boiling surf, and, to complete the whole, the 
 spectacle afforded by another djerm swamped and wrecked 
 before our eyes, as we passed with the velocity of light- 
 ning, unable to render the least assistance, can never 
 be forgotten. We had often read accounts of dangerous 
 surf, In books of voyages, but entertained no notion in any 
 degree adequate to the horrors which mariners encounter 
 in such a situation ; nor is there any instance known of a 
 more frightful surf than this river sometimes exhibits, by 
 its junction with the Mediterranean. No sooner had we 
 gained a certain point, or tongue of land, advancing from the 
 eastern shore of the river towards the north-west, than a 
 general shout from the Arabs announced that every danger 
 was over : — presently we sailed as serenely along as upon the 
 calmest surface of any lake. The distance of the mouth of 
 the Nile from the station of the British armament is consi- 
 derable ; but while we remained at anchor in the Bay of 
 Aboukir, we could perceive the ships stationed near the 
 
 Boccaz ; 
 
It O S E T T A. 
 
 21 
 
 Boccaz ; and in like manner we here observed the masts of 
 the fleet in the bay. 
 
 As we entered the Nile, we were amused by seeing 
 an Arab fishing with the sort of net called in England 
 a casting-net : this, without any difference either in shape, 
 size, or materials, he was throwing exactly after our 
 manner, which affords reasonable evidence of the anti- 
 quity of the custom. Pelicans appeared in great number 
 at the mouth of the river; also that kind of porpoise 
 which is called dolphin in the Levant; this may be seen 
 sporting in the Nile, as high up as the town of Rosetta. 
 The first object, after entering the Rosetta branch, is the 
 Castle, or Fort of St. Julian. In digging for the fortifica- 
 tions of this place, the French discovered the famous Triple 
 Inscription, now in the British Museum ' : this will be ever 
 valuable, even if the only information obtained from it were 
 confined to a solitary fact, — that the hieroglyphic charac- 
 ters do exhibit the writing of the priests of Egypt*. This 
 truth will no longer be disputed; therefore the proper ap- 
 pellation for inscriptions in such characters ought to be 
 Hierograms, rather than Hieroglyphs. A surprising number 
 of Turkish gun-boats were stationed opposite to this fort, 
 at the time we passed ; and when the beautiful prospect of 
 Rosetta opened to our view, the whole surface of the river, 
 in front of the town, appeared also covered with gun- 
 boats and with djerms. 
 
 Upon 
 
 (1) See p. 304. Chap. X. of the last Volume. 
 
 (2) See the words of the Greek inscription upon that stone, TOIC TE IEPOII 
 TPAMMAIIN. 
 
 CHAP. I. 
 
 Fort St. Julian. 
 

 HI H ^■■^^H^HI 
 
 ■■HHH 
 
 22 
 
 CHAP. 1. 
 
 State of Affairs 
 in Rosetta. 
 
 ROSETTA. 
 
 Upon our arrival, at five o'clock p. m. we found an 
 amusing proof of the effect of war annihilating all civil 
 distinctions. The house we had formerly occupied was 
 full of sailors, soldiers, and other tenants ; our apart- 
 ments had been converted into Charems, and were filled 
 with Georgian, Circassian, and Egyptian girls ; these we 
 found sitting unveiled upon the floor ; some working em- 
 broidery, others chattering and laughing. One of them, a 
 beautiful female, taken from a tribe of Bedouin Arabs, 
 exhibited a fine countenance disfigured with those blue 
 scars which were described in the account of Bethlehem. 
 They were marks, as she pretended, which entitled her 
 to very high consideration among the Arabs of the Desert. 
 These women had been presents from the French prisoners 
 to the officers and men of our army and navy. They appeared 
 to be as much at home, and as tranquil, in the protection 
 of their new masters, as if they had been thus settled for life. 
 The most lamentable part of the story is, that when our 
 people were compelled to abandon them, they were certain 
 of being murdered by the Mahometans. A woman who has 
 admitted the embraces of a Christian is never afterwards 
 pardoned. It is lawful, and deemed laudable, for the first 
 Turk or Arab who meets with her, to put her instantly to 
 death. In this scene of confusion we were constrained to 
 take up our abode; there being no alternative, until we could 
 complete our preparations for a voyage up the Nile to Grand 
 Cairo. Indeed, we had reason to be thankful for such 
 accommodations, considering the disordered state of affairs 
 at that time in Rosetta. We hired a djerm the evening 
 
 of 
 
 
ROSETT A. 
 
 23 
 
 of our arrival ; and made application the next day, August chap.i. 
 Qth, to the Commissary of the army, for his permission 
 to purchase provisions, in the market. This we had 
 great difficulty in obtaining. The Commissary seemed to 
 consider, and with reason at that critical juncture, every 
 application which did not relate to the business of the army 
 as an unwarrantable intrusion. Some degree of rudeness, 
 however, in the manner of his refusal, struck us the more 
 forcibly, as we had experienced the greatest civilities from 
 his worthy predecessor, who had recently fallen a victim 
 to the effects of the climate. Having urgent letters of re- 
 commendation from the Commanders-in-chief, both of the 
 army and of the navy, we made our situation known to 
 Mr. Wills, purser of Captain Russel's ship the Ceres, then 
 acting as Commissary for the fleet, who interested himself 
 warmly in our behalf. To his kindness we were indebted for 
 being able to prosecute our intended voyage with expedition 
 as well as with comfort ; and, indeed, without his aid we 
 should not have been allowed the use even of the djerm 
 which we had engaged for the undertaking. 
 
 We employed the remainder of this day in fitting up a 
 kind of tent, or cabin, by means of mats and the branches 
 of palm-trees, upon the stern of our vessel, lining it with 
 our mosquitoe-nets, to protect us from the swarm of those 
 insects upon the river. The inundation had begun, and the 
 rapidity of the current was thereby exceedingly increased. 
 The price of every article of provision had become very high, Price oi 
 
 Provisions. 
 
 since our last visit to Rosetta. For half a pound of tea we 
 were obliged to pay near two pounds sterling. The difference 
 
 between 
 
24 
 
 ROSETTA. 
 
 CHAP. I. 
 
 Manufacture 
 of Coffee. 
 
 between the markets of this place and Damiata was 
 astonishing, considering the short distance that separated the 
 two towns. This will appear in stating the value of 'a dollar ; 
 which, in Rosetta, was equivalent, either to half a sheep, or to 
 three geese, or four fowls, or an hundred eggs. In Damiata, 
 for the same sum, might be purchased, either two sheep, six 
 geese, twelve fowls, or eight hundred eggs. The coffee of 
 Mocha, when Rosetta was first captured, might be obtained 
 almost for nothing ; but it had been all sold, and a great 
 quantity went in presents to England. One of the most 
 curious sights in Rosetta was the manufacture of this 
 article. After roasting the coffee, it is pounded in immense 
 iron mortars ; three Arabs working at a time, with enormous 
 pestles, each as large as a man can raise. The capacity of 
 the bottom of the mortar being only equal to the reception 
 of one of these at a time, the pestles are raised according 
 to the measure of an air sung by an attendant Arab, who 
 sits near the mortar. The main purport of this curious 
 accompaniment to their labour is, to prevent the hand and 
 arm of a boy, kneeling by the mortar, from being crushed 
 to atoms. The boy's arm is always within the receiver, 
 which, being hollowed in the shape of a cone, allows room 
 for each pestle to pass in turn without bruising him, if 
 he place it in time against the side of the mortar ; but, 
 as after every stroke he must stir up the powder at the 
 bottom with his fingers, if the precise period of each blow 
 were not marked by the measure of the song, his arm would 
 be struck off. Intoxication happily is a vice with which 
 the Arabs are unacquainted; or, as the constant attention of 
 
 a whole 
 
 
ROSETTA. 
 
 25 
 
 a whole party, thus employed, is necessary to the safety of 
 the poor child, so stationed, it may be conceived what the 
 consequences of drunkenness would be, in a manufactory 
 where many of these mortars are used. A sight of this pro- 
 cess is sufficient to explain the cause of the very impalpable 
 nature of the powder used by the Turks in their coffee: 
 the infusion more resembles the appearance of chocolate, 
 than of coffee as we prepare it in England. 
 
 After visiting this manufactory, we went to see a 
 building of very great, although of unknown, antiquity, 
 used as a warehouse for keeping stores. It has a vaulted 
 stone roof, with the remarkable appearance of pointed 
 arches, resulting from the intersection of palm-branches: 
 the trunks of the trees, whence these ramifications pro- 
 ceed, beautifully sculptured, are represented as stationed in 
 the four corners and by the sides of the vaulted chamber. 
 This curious relique has never been noticed nor described by 
 any author; therefore it is impossible to conjecture either 
 the age of the building, or any thing concerning its history. 
 Quaresmius is altogether silent upon the subject. He says 
 only of antient Rosetta, that it was called Scheida ; and its 
 present appellation, Raschid, is familiar to every school-boy 
 acquainted with the entertaining tales of its Caliph, Aaron : 
 possibly, therefore, the vaulted edifice may be referred to this 
 famous Sultan Ilaroun at Raschid, in the eighth century. 
 Rosetta may soon become a place of much more importance 
 than it is at present, in consequence of the total cessation 
 of pilgrimages to Mecca. The Wahabee Arabs have destroyed 
 all the wells which formerly supplied the caravans with 
 
 vol. in. e water ; 
 
 CHAP. I. 
 
 Curious Re 
 mains of 
 Pointed 
 Arches. 
 
 Probable Con- 
 sequence of 
 the Interrup- 
 tion of Mecca 
 Pilgrimage. 
 

 l&~ "<k-> 
 
 'ti£l>'<''± 
 
 26 
 
 CHAP. I. 
 
 Exhibition of 
 the Psylli, or 
 Serpent- 
 Eaters. 
 
 ROSETTA. 
 
 water; and nothing less than an army is necessary for 
 
 their restoration 1 . Quaresmius, in mentioning the estimation 
 
 wherein Rosetta, as the birth-place of Mahomet, is held 
 
 by the Moslems, long ago predicted, that whenever the 
 
 journeys to Mecca were interrupted, it would become the 
 
 resort of Mahometan pilgrims'. For the reception of such 
 
 a multitude, Rosetta is much better provided than Mecca ; 
 
 for it is attested by all travellers 3 , and among these by our 
 
 countryman Sandys 4 , that " no place under heaven is better 
 
 furnished with graine, flesh, fish, sugar, fruits, roots," 
 
 together with all other necessaries and luxuries of life. 
 
 During our former visit to Rosetta, we neglected to 
 notice the particular day of the year 5 on which a most 
 singular exhibition of the Serpent-eaters, or Psylli, as 
 
 mentioned 
 
 rn « It is now five year? since the Wahabees have prevented the pilgrims from per- 
 forming their journey to Mecca. They have destroyed the cisterns in the Desert 3 and 
 it is impossible to have these repaired without sending an army to protect the workmen. 
 This condition will hardly ever be fulfilled, as there are not more than 10,000 soldiers 
 in all Syria; and the Wahabee Chief has, at any time, more than 100,000 men mounted 
 on camels,' at his disposal. The interruption of this pilgrimage is considered by the 
 Turks as a sign of the approaching desolation of the Turkish empire." MS. Letter 
 from Burckhardt, the African traveller, dated Aleppo, May 3, 1811. 
 
 (2) " Fertur in partibus iUis, ex ea civitate originem traxisse Mahometem, pseudo-pro- 
 phetam Turcarum et aliorum Infidelium caput 3 ac ideb illam magni aestimant. Quare, 
 si Mecha, ubi sepulchrum dicitur esse Mahometis, a Christianis caperetur, et ad illud 
 interdicta esset ipsorum peregrinatio, Rosetum peregrinarentur." Quaresm. Eluc. T. S. 
 torn. II. p. 1008. Antv. \63g. 
 
 (3) " In optima uberique regione sita, omni bonorum genere ad opulente tivendum 
 afftuente, carnibus, piscibus, fructibus, &c." Ibid. 
 
 (4) Sandys' Travels, p. 166. Lond. 1637- 
 
 (5) Denonsays this exhibition takes place during the annual procession of the Feast 
 of Ibrahim, at Rosetta. He regretted not having been there at the time. See Venn's 
 Travels, Eng. Edit. vol. I. p. 123. Lond. 1803. 
 
ROSETTA 
 
 mentioned by Herodotus 8 and by many antient authors 7 , took 
 place. A tumultuous throng, passing beneath the windows 
 of our house, attracted our attention towards the quay: 
 here we saw a concourse of people following men ap- 
 parently frantic, who, with every appearance of convul- 
 sive agony, were brandishing live serpents, and then tearing 
 them with their teeth ; snatching them from each other's 
 m^utns, with loud cries and distorted features, and after- 
 wards falling into the arms of the spectators, as if swooning; 
 the women all the while rending the air with their lamen- 
 tations. Pliny often mentions these jugglers 8 ; and as their 
 tricks have been noticed by other travellers, it is only now- 
 necessary to attest the existence of this extraordinary rem- 
 nant of a very antient custom. 
 
 (6) Herodot. lib. iv. cap. 173. 
 
 (7) Strabon. Geog. lib.xvii. Lucan. ix. vv. 894, 937. Pausan. lib. ix. c. 14. Dio 
 Cass. lib. li. c. 14. Aul. Gell. lib. xvi. c. 11. &c. &c. 
 
 (8) Plin. Hist. Nat. lib. vii. c. 2. lib. viii. c. 25. lib. xxv. c. 10. lib. xxviii. c. 3. 
 
 
 
gags i3^B»?sj£g smm 
 
 
 fater from tike Ml« 
 
 CHAP. II. 
 
 CHAP. II. 
 
 VOYAGE UP THE NILE TO GRAND CAIRO. 
 
 Example afforded by a Naval Officer — Inaccuracy in the Maps of Egypt 
 — Triple Harvest of the Delta — Mode of raising Water from the Nile 
 
 — Summer Habits of the Egyptian Arabs — Ficus Sycamorus — 
 Etesian Winds — Motubis — Dancing Women — Debe — Sinbion and 
 Derrul — Turkish Cavalry — Arab Customs — Foua — Rachmanie 
 — Description of the Country — Diseases — Facility of visiting Upper 
 Egypt — Koum Scheriff — Amrus — Birds — Singular Animal 
 Appearance — Plants — El Buredgiat — Remarkable Phenomenon — 
 Tumblers — Abundance of Corn— Southern Point of the Delta — 
 Arrival at Bulac — View of the Pyramids — Visit to the Reis Effendi 
 — House of the French Institute — Jewel Market — Interior of Cairo — 
 Jugglers — Trees — Incense — Gum Arabic — Plagues of Egypt — 
 Statistics of Cairo — British Army from India — Dinner given by the 
 Commander-in-chief— Discovery made by Brahmins in Upper Egypt 
 
 — Examination of an Abyssinian concerning Bruce s Travels — 
 Fidelity of that Traveller s Observations confirmed. 
 
 W e left Rosetta on Monday, August the tenth, at 
 seven a. m. and called upon Captain Hill jar, who had the 
 
 command 
 
VOYAGE UP THE NILE. 
 
 29 
 
 command of some gun-boats to the south of the town, and chap. ii. 
 whom we found stationed upon the river, on board one of 
 those vessels. His late arduous services, in several engage- Example 
 
 afforded by a 
 
 merits with the enemy, were then the subject of very Naval ° fficer - 
 general conversation. The Capudan Pasha, in testimony of 
 the gratitude of the Turkish Government, had conferred 
 upon him some trifling presents. But that which particularly 
 excited the wonder of all his contemporaries, and which 
 will convey the name of Hillyar to posterity, with honours 
 more lasting than even those obtained by his valour and his 
 victories, was the example offered by this distinguished 
 officer to the navies of the world, in proving the possibility 
 of fighting the battles of his country, and maintaining un- 
 rivalled discipline among his crew, without the utterance of 
 an oath by any man on board the ship he commanded. 
 
 We had convincing evidence of inaccuracy in our best In acc»racyin 
 
 ° J the Maps of 
 
 maps of the Delta, and of the course of the Nile, from E§ypl - 
 
 the earliest comparisons we made in the country. That of 
 
 Kauffer, published at Constantinople in 1799, is extremely 
 
 incorrect ; but it is less so than preceding documents. Soon 
 
 after leaving Rosetta, we passed some extensive canals, 
 
 conveying water to lands above the level of the river : these 
 
 are supplied by wheels, sometimes turned by oxen, but more 
 
 generally by buffaloes. They are banked by very lofty 
 
 walls, constructed of mud, hardened by the sun. One of 
 
 them, upon the western side of the river, extended to the 
 
 Lake Maadie. The land, thus watered, produces three crops TripieHarv^t 
 
 ' of the Delta, 
 
 in each year ; the first of clover, the second of corn, and 
 the third of rice. The rice-grounds are inundated from the 
 
 time 
 

 ■ 
 
 I 
 
 30 
 
 CHAP. II. 
 
 Method of 
 raising Watei 
 from the 
 Nile. 
 
 VOYAGE UP THE NILE 
 
 time of sowing nearly to harvest: the seed is commonly cast 
 upon the water, a practice twice alluded to in Sacred Scrip- 
 ture. Balaam prophesied of Israel 1 , that " his seed should be 
 in many waters." In the directions given for charity by 
 the son of David, it is written 2 , " Cast thy bread upon the 
 waters : for thou shalt find it after many days." When 
 the rice-plants are about two feet high, they are transplanted. 
 Besides the method of raising water into the high grounds 
 near the river, by means of buckets fastened to a wheel, 
 where the land is not much elevated above the surface of 
 the Nile, they use a simple, and probably a very antient 
 contrivance 3 , of lifting it in a basket lined perhaps with close 
 matting or with leather. Two men, holding the basket be- 
 tween them, by a cord in each hand fastened to the edge of it, 
 lower it into the Nile, and then swing it between them until 
 it acquires a velocity sufficient to enable them to throw the 
 water, over a bank, into a canal near the river. The regular 
 continuance of their motion gives them, at a distance, the 
 appearance of automaton figures, rather than of living 
 beings. They work stark naked, exposed to the sun's most 
 powerful rays, during the whole day ; repeating one of 
 their Arabian songs ; for they seem to have a peculiar air 
 adapted to every labour. As to their summer clothing, when 
 , • • they 
 
 (1) Numbers xxiv. 7. (2) Ecclesiastes xi. 1. 
 
 (3) See the Pignette to this Chapter. Those who are interested in tracing resem- 
 blances between the customs of the Chinese and Egyptians, may be informed that this 
 manner of irrigating land, which certainly possesses something of singularity, is practised 
 upon the rivers in China, without the smallest difference. An engraved represen- 
 tation of it is given in the account of Lord Macartney's Embassy. See vol. II. p. 35Q. 
 Lond. 1797- 
 
TO GRAND CAIRO. 
 
 31 
 
 they wear any, it consists only of a blue cotton shirt, ^hap.ii, 
 girded by a belt round the waist. The Arabs whom we 
 saw occasionally near the river, whether alone, or in com- 
 pany, made their appearance without any kind of covering. 
 Sometimes they were seen in parties of ten or twelve at 
 a time, walking together, young and old, as naked as they 
 were born, without seeming sensible of any indecency in 
 their appearance. 
 
 Fahrenheit's thermometer, observed in the shade, this day 
 at noon, indicated a temperature of ninety degrees. Our 
 course, by a very good boat-compass, given to us by Captain 
 Clarke of the Braakel, was at that time south, half east. In 
 half an hour we found it to be east and by north. We 
 observed several trees of a very singular form: they re- 
 sembled, by the spreading of their boughs, the shape of 
 a fan, and looked at a distance like enormous peacocks with 
 their tails expanded. As we drew near and examined them, 
 they proved to be, every one of them, the Ficus Syca- FicusSi/ca- 
 
 morus. 
 
 moms, or Sycamore Fig; and of this species, although 
 so common in Egypt, there was scarcely a single speci- 
 men in any British herbary, until our return to England. 
 It attains an enormous size near Cairo; particularly in 
 the Isle of Rhouda, where some of those trees appear larger 
 than the stateliest oaks of our forests. The fruit re- 
 sembles the common fig in shape; but it is smaller, very dry, 
 insipid, and rarely eaten. The peculiar form of the trees in 
 this part of Egypt is owing entirely to the north and north- 
 west, or Etesian winds, which prevail with much violence, and 
 for a considerable length of time, during the months of July 
 
 and 
 
 Etesian 
 Winds. 
 
mmtOtO^mm 
 
 
 :'<}i*"'--'*t<<\-r:*.b I 
 
 - 
 ^^B^H H3tf9|QiDiQ|Qp9iBPBiO 
 
 
 PPBIV 
 
 ^^^■■MM 
 
 32 
 
 CHAP. II. 
 
 Motubis. 
 
 Dancing 
 Women. 
 
 VOYAGE UP THE NILE 
 
 and August. As this monsoon happens annually, at the period 
 of the Nile's inundation, the wonderful advantages it offers 
 for the commerce of the country exceed any thing perhaps 
 known upon earth. A vessel, leaving Rosetta, is driven by 
 it with extraordinary velocity against the whole force of 
 the torrent to Cairo, or into any part of Upper Egypt. For 
 the purpose of her return, with even greater rapidity, it is 
 only necessary to take down mast and sails, and leave her 
 to be carried against the wind by the powerful current of 
 the river. It is thus possible to perform the whole voyage, 
 from Rosetta, to Bulac the quay of Cairo, and back again, 
 with certainty, in about seventy hours ; v a distance equal 
 to four hundred miles 1 . 
 
 At half past one p. m. we came in view of Motubis, 
 sometimes written Metubis, or Mctabis*, famous or infamous 
 for those dancing women called Almchs, which however 
 are common in most parts of Egypt. When the French 
 army marched to Cairo, General Menou halted here, in the 
 true spirit of French licentiousness, pretending business 
 with the Sheiks, but in reality to gratify himself and his 
 soldiers by the disgusting exhibition of these prostitutes. 
 The Sheiks of the place wished to be spared, even in 
 Motubis, the degradation attending a public display of 
 these dances, and raised difficulties against their attendance ; 
 but, says Denon 3 , " the presence of the generals, and 
 
 especially 
 
 (1) Shaw makes the distance from Rosetta to Cairo equal to 200 miles. See 
 Shaw's Travels, p. 294. Lond. 1757- 
 
 (2) See Denon's Traveis, vol. I. p. 77- Lond. 1803. (3) Ibid. p. 7B. 
 
TO GRAND CAIRO. 
 
 33 
 
 Dibt. 
 
 especially of two hundred soldiers, removed the obstacles." 
 In order to heighten the dissoluteness of this Canopic festival, 
 brandy was administered to the women in large glasses, 
 which, says the same writer, they drank like lemonade. If, 
 therefore, in the scene that followed, something revolting, 
 even to the feelings of a French army, ensued, it should have 
 been deemed rather characteristic of the Parisian rabble- 
 ment who were present, than of the natural habits of the 
 people of the country. As we approached Motubis, our 
 course altered from south-east to south-west. According 
 to KaufFer's map, the course is south-east towards this place 
 from Rosetta. We arrived at two o'clock p. m. and ob- 
 served here some troops of English cavalry ; but continued 
 our voyage without landing. Opposite to the town of 
 Motubis, but farther towards the south, stands Deb6. The 
 generality of these towns upon the banks of the Nile are 
 small, but there is a pleasing variety in their appearance ; 
 for they have no resemblance to each other, although all of 
 them are shaded by groves of date and sycamore. We 
 passed Sindion and T>errul y two towns opposite to each 
 other, on different sides of the river. At Sindion we had the 
 pleasing sight of a party of Turkish cavalry upon their 
 march ; and were awhile amused by considering the grati- Cavalr y 
 fication their appearance would afford, if we could have 
 removed them, in their full costume, to one of the London 
 theatres. They had their colours flying ; yellow and green. 
 Passing through the villages, they continued to beat small 
 kettle-drums ; proceeding always by a sluggish pace, with 
 their knees up to their chins, evidently annoyed by a 
 vol. in. f situation 
 
 CHAP TI. 
 
 Sindion and 
 Derrill. 
 
 Turkish 
 
 « 
 
Ya^JA*?^* 1 ' '^'A^SftWf**^ 
 
 
 34 VOYAGE UP THE NILE 
 
 chap. ii. situation so hostile to their natural indolence as that in 
 which a certain degree of active exertion was unavoidable. 
 Their ludicrous appearance was a source of mirth to the 
 cavalry of the French army, even in the heat of battle ; 
 among whom the order of a charge was frequently expressed, 
 with their natural levity, by the words " Bas les PastequesT 
 Down ivith the Water-melons I alluding to the appearance 
 presented by the bulky swathing of their large turbans, 
 which give to their heads something of a similitude to that 
 enormous kind of fruit ; and it was a sound of which the 
 Moslems rarely awaited the result, but fled as soon as they 
 heard it, in the utmost disorder. 
 \rab custom*. The Arab crew of our boat washed their hands, faces, 
 
 and teeth, before and after eating ; cleaning their teeth 
 with wood ashes, which they collected for that purpose 
 from the fire for boiling our kettle. The common fuel used 
 by the inhabitants of the country is prepared from a 
 mixture of camel's dung, mud, and straw: these ingredients, 
 being mixed as a paste, they collect into balls, which are 
 flattened upon the walls of their huts for drying in the 
 sun, and made into circular cakes. From the ashes of 
 those cakes the Muriat of Ammonia is obtained, which 
 is afterwards sent to Europe. The process is briefly and 
 perspicuously described by Shaw, in the Appendix to his 
 Travels 1 . About four miles to the south of Sindion, the 
 
 Nile 
 
 (1) Collectanea, No. X. p. 480. Sbaw's Travels. Lond.l757> 
 
TO GRAND CAIRO. 
 
 Nile had overflowed its banks, and was making rapid pro- 
 gress over the adjoining fields. It began to rise upon the 
 seventeenth day of June. The canal of Cairo was cut upon 
 the eighth of August, the day of our arrival at Rosetta from 
 the Holy Land, with the usual observance of public festivity ; 
 the Nile having then attained its proper height. After this, 
 all the banks were cut, and dykes opened, to receive the 
 inundation, from Cairo to the sea 2 . Our course here was 
 e. n. e. towards the village of Foua, falsely marked as a 
 town in all the maps. Soon afterwards we steered south- 
 east, and passed that village. It is opposite to Rachmanie, 
 now celebrated as the scene of action between our troops and 
 those of the enemy under General Le Grange. This officer 
 was raised by Buonaparte from the ranks : high respect is due 
 to him for his conduct upon many occasions ; but, in par- 
 ticular, for his subsequent humane and exemplary treatment 
 of the wife of one of our commanders in the West Indies, who 
 became his prisoner while her husband was engaged with 
 him in the warmest hostilities. If it be a Christian duty to 
 love our enemies, it is doubly incumbent upon every English- 
 man to cherish the memory of actions which thus exalt the 
 
 character 
 
 35 
 
 CHAP. II. 
 
 (2) The Reader may perhaps be curious to know what the symptoms are in th'e Nile 
 (when at the lowest ebb) denoting the incipient flood. We were in Rosetta at the 
 precise period for making the observation. This happened upon the sixteenth of May. 
 For several days before, the water in the river was very shallow, and seemed to stagnate. 
 The smell of it was like that of an unwholesome pool, and its surface became partly 
 covered with a green slime. By attentively observing it about this time, a number of 
 little whirlpools, not more than an inch in diameter, might be occasionally noticed, 
 suddenly becoming visible, and as suddenly disappearing. The Arabs pointed to these 
 as the earliest indications oi the coming flood. 
 
mm^s^mtiimms^^ 
 
 
 36 
 
 Description 
 of the 
 Country. 
 
 VOYAGE UP THE NILE 
 
 character of a soldier to that of a hero. The English flag 
 was flying upon the castle of the fortress of Rachmanie ; and 
 a party of our troops was stationed there, to guard the town. 
 We spoke to some Irish soldiers, asking them the hour ; and 
 were much amused by the reply : " To be sure, at sun-set 
 is it not half past four?" Opposite to Rachmanie there is 
 a small island, in the middle of the river. A laro-e vessel 
 with three masts was stationed near the town. The Nile is 
 here very broad, and the current was at this time prodigiously 
 rapid ; yet the force of the Etesian wind enabled us to stem 
 it, and to proceed with very great velocity. Villages, in an 
 almost uninterrupted succession, denoted a much greater 
 population than we had imagined the country contained. 
 Upon each side of the river, as far as the eye could 
 survey, were rich fields of corn and rice, with such beau- 
 tiful groves, seeming to rise out of the watery plains, and 
 to shade innumerable settlements in the Delta, amidst 
 never-ending plantations of melons and all kinds of garden 
 vegetables, that, from the abundance of its produce, Egvpt 
 may be deemed the richest country in the world. Such is 
 the picture exhibited to the native inhabitants, who are 
 seasoned to withstand the disorders of the country, and 
 can bear with indifference the attacks of myriads of all 
 sorts of noxious animals ; to whom mud and mosquitoes, 
 or dust and vermin, are alike indifferent ; who, having never 
 experienced one comfortable feeling in the midst of their 
 highest enjoyments, nor a single antidote to sorrow in the 
 depths of wretchedness, vegetate, like the bananas and 
 sycamores around them. But to strangers, and particularly 
 
 to 
 
TO GRAND CAIRO. 
 
 37 
 
 CHAP. II. 
 
 to inhabitants of Northern countries, where wholesome 
 air and cleanliness are among the necessaries of life, Egypt 
 is the most detestable region upon earth. Upon the retiring 
 of the Nile, the country is one vast swamp. An atmosphere, 
 impregnated with every putrid and offensive exhalation, 
 stagnates, like the filthy pools over which it broods. Then 
 the plague regularly begins, nor ceases until the waters Diseases. 
 return again 1 . Throughout the spring, intermitting fevers 
 universally prevail. About the beginning of May certain winds 
 cover even the sands of the desert with the most disgusting 
 vermin*. The latest descendants of Pharaoh are not yet 
 delivered from the evils which fell upon the land, when it 
 was smitten by the hands of Moses and Aaron: the " plague 
 of fro<rs," the " plague of lice," "the plague of flies," the 
 "murrain, boils, and blains, " prevail, so that the whole 
 country is "corrupted," and "the dust of the earth 
 
 BECOMES LICE, UPON MAN AND UPON BEAST, THROUGHOUT 
 
 the land of Egypt." This application of the words of 
 Scripture affords a literal exposition of existing facts ; such 
 an one as the statistics of the country do now warrant 2 . In 
 justification of this statement, it is only necessary to appeal 
 to the testimony of all those who have resided in the 
 
 country 
 
 (1) General Le Grange assured us, when on board the Braakel, that the ravages in 
 the French army, caused by the plague during the month of April, at one time amounted 
 to an hundred men in a single day. 
 
 (2) Sir Sidney Smith informed the Author, that one night, preferring a bed upon the 
 sand of the desert to a night's lodging in the village of Etko, as thinking to be secure 
 from vermin, he found himself, in the morning, entirely covered by them. Lice 
 and scorpions abound in all the sandy desert near Alexandria. 
 

 ,*^:£*£«M? ^^H fy***/*^**?.?. 
 
 
 38 
 
 CHAP. II. 
 
 Facility of 
 visiting 
 Upper Egypt. 
 
 VOYAGE UP THE NILE 
 
 country during the very opposite seasons of its prosperity 
 and privation ; during the inundation, and when the flood 
 has retired ; or before it takes place, in the beginning of the 
 year. At the period of the overflow, persons who drink 
 the water become subject to the disorder called " prickly 
 heat:" this often terminates in those dreadful wounds 
 alluded to in Scripture, by the words " boils and blains." 
 During the months of June, July, and August, many indi- 
 viduals are deprived of sight, by a disease of the eyes peculiar 
 to this country, and which, having no other name for, 
 Europeans have called Ophthalmia, from the organs it af- 
 flicts. There was hardly an individual who did not suffer, 
 more or less, the consequences of this painful malady. It 
 commences with a sensation as if grains of sand had been 
 blown into the eyes, which no care can remove 1 . At this 
 season, also, the dysentery begins to number its victims ; and 
 although some are fortunate enough to escape the worst 
 effects of this disorder, it proves fatal in many instances 4 . 
 A traveller may escape most of these evils by proper atten- 
 tion : and if he visit the country so as to profit by the 
 Etesian winds at the time of the inundation, and hires a 
 djerm for his constant residence upon the river, he may 
 
 venture 
 
 (1) It is said even yet to exist in this country, as a contagious disorder brought by 
 our army from Egypt. 
 
 (2) The best remedies for this terrible complaint are, first a swathing of flannel, in 
 many folds, about the abdomen ; and, secondly, a drink of water, in which rice has 
 been boiled, carefully strained from the grains of rice, which should not be eaten. 
 The very worst effects may be apprehended from brandy, or any of those heating- 
 cordials usually administered, by ignorant people, upon these occasions. Rice-water and 
 abstemious diet is the cure resorted to by the Arabs themselves. 
 
TO GRAND CAIRO. 
 
 39 
 
 venture into Upper Egypt, and visit Thebes with greater , chap.il 
 ease and comfort than he ever performed any other expe- 
 dition. The never-failing monsoon will carry him along, 
 sitting in a cool and comfortable cabin, with every conveni- 
 ence for reading or writing, for food, or rest; and the 
 current of the river alone will operate as favourably for his 
 return. We considered the time we passed upon the Nile 
 as the most pleasing part of all our travels ; — that which was 
 required by our residence on shore the most disagreeable ; 
 notwithstanding the very commodious lodgings we had, 
 whether in the cities of Rosetta, Cairo, or Alexandria. 
 
 After passing Rachmanie, darkness compelled us to take 
 leave of the very interesting landscape which had continually 
 gratified us during the day. We continued sailing almost 
 the whole night, under the care and guidance of our steady 
 pilot at the helm, who, as captain of the djerm, remained 
 at his post until morning dawned. Four men besides him- 
 self constituted the whole crew ; these were all Arabs. 
 During the time they remained in our service, we found 
 them diligent, industrious, faithful, always sober, obliging, 
 and skilful in the management of their vessel. When day- 
 light appeared, upon Saturday, August the eleventh, they 
 told us they had anchored for some time at a village, fear- 
 ful of being boarded by pirates during the extreme darkness 
 that prevailed, especially as the light burning in our cabin 
 rendered the djerm visible from the sides of the river. 
 About eight o'clock a. m. we reached a miserable town, called 
 Koum or Komme ScJieriff, built entirely with mud. Soon KoumScher;//. 
 afterwards we passed the town of Amrus, also constructed Amrw. 
 
 of 
 
wmmmmm$mB" 
 
 i&iii£ty'i&irZ , AiZf*i , £i* 
 
 wmm 
 
 mm 
 
 40 
 
 CHAP. If. 
 
 Birds. 
 
 VOYAGE UP THE NILE 
 
 of mud, and containing a number of tall and large cones, 
 built in the same manner, and serving as pigeon-houses : 
 these have a singular appearance in the approach to the place. 
 Pigeon's dung, everywhere valuable as manure, is here an 
 important acquisition ; for by mixing it with the sand upon 
 the little islands left by the torrent in the midst of the river, 
 a soil is formed, capable of producing water-melons 1 . 
 
 The birds which frequent the Nile, if we except the 
 account given by Hasselquist 2 , are but little known, and 
 our observations will add nothing to this deficiency in 
 ornithology. A most superb collection was, however, 
 forwarded to England under the patronage and by the im- 
 mediate orders of Lord Hutchinson. It had been formed, 
 with consummate skill and labour, by a person of the name 
 of Savigny. We principally noticed pelicans, from the mouth 
 of the Nile, as far as Rachmanie. The Sterna Ntlotica, or 
 Egyptian sea-swallow, appeared, in immense flocks, near the 
 sides of the river. Afterwards we saw many beautiful birds, 
 of which we were entirely ignorant ; particularly one of 
 the plover kind, whose plumage exhibited the most lively 
 and variegated colours 1 . The pigeon-cones increased very 
 much after passing Amrus, almost every village being 
 furnished with them. The buffaloes, swimming about in 
 the Nile, afford a singular sight, with their black muzzles 
 
 sticking 
 
 (1) See also Baron de Tott's Memoirs, vol.11, p. 248. Lond. 1/85. 
 
 (2) See Travels, p. 1Q3. Lond. 1766. 
 
 (3) Probably the " Tringa jEgyptiaca" of Linnaeus, " longirostris, fusco allidoque 
 variegata." See Hasselq. Trav. p. 199. 
 
TO GRAND CAIUO. 
 
 41 
 
 sticking out of the water, and snorting as they cross from v , CHAP - "• 
 
 side to side ; all the rest of their bodies being concealed. 
 
 But the most remarkable animal appearance may be noticed singular 
 
 1 L \ Animal Ap 
 
 bv merely dipping a ladle or bucket into the midst of the pea«mce. 
 torrent, which is everywhere dark with mud, and observing 
 the swarms of animalcuke it contains. Among these, 
 tadpoles and young frogs are so numerous, that, rapid as the 
 current flows, there is no part of the ^ile where the water 
 does not contain them. The additions to our herbary were Plants. 
 not of any importance ; for the season was too far ad- 
 vanced \ The rice-plants, however, may be excepted ; these 
 
 had 
 
 (4) In the account of our journey from Aboukir to Rosetta, (See Chap IX. Vol. II) 
 five new species were omitted, which may be noticed here, although perhaps not found 
 so hi°"h up the Nile. The first genus is not mentioned in Professor Martyn's edition 
 of Miller's Dictionary. 
 
 I. A non-descript grass, being a new species of Polypogon ; growing in little tufts, 
 about two inches high. We have called it Polypogon pumilum. (See the character 
 of this genus in the Flora Atlantica of M. Desfontaines, Protessor of Botany 
 in the Museum of Natural History at Paris.) This was found near Rosetta. Poly- 
 pogon pumilum, paniculd ovata coarctata, aristis calyce hirsuto fere duplo longiori- 
 bus. Radix annua fibrosa. Culmi numerosi gcniculati, fere ad apices foliosi. Folia 
 glabriuscula striata, longh vaginantia, supra plana, patenlia. Stipulce laceratce, 
 nitidce. Paniculce incequales, superiores lineas sex ad novem longce ; inferiores 
 dimidio minores. 
 [I. A non-descript species of Lotus, with shining silky leaves, very closely crowded 
 together towards the tops of the branches. We have called it Lotus polyphyllus. 
 This was found between Aboukir and Rosetta, in the month of April. Lotus caule 
 suffrutescente ramoso, foliis lineari-parabolicis olliquis, imbricatis, sericeis, nitidis 
 intemodiis longioribus ; floribus subternis ; leguminibus glabris calyce hirsutissimo 
 paulo longioribus. Rami adscendentes flexuosi, deorsum e casu fuiiorum cicatriabus 
 notati nudi ; supradense folios i, hirsuti. Fo/iola lineas tres longa, utrinuue sericea. 
 Stipulce foliolis simil/imte. Flores foliis par urn longiores, interdum solitarii. 
 Legumina turgida stylo persistente coronata. 
 III. A magnificent non-descript species of Orobanche, with a furrowed scaly stem, 
 and a close spike of flowers about three inches broad, and above a foot in height. 
 vol. m. « We 
 

 
 42 
 
 CHAP. II. 
 
 VOYAGE UP THE NILE 
 
 had not attained maturity, being now about two feet in 
 height. They resembled a species of Typlia, common in 
 large ponds in the south of England, vulgarly called flags, 
 as these appear, when young, rising from the water. We 
 made the usual observation upon Fahrenheit's thermometer, 
 EiBuredgiat. at noon, just before arriving at El Burcdgiat, and found the 
 temperature equal to that of the former day; ninety degrees. 
 This village is placed accurately in KaurFer's map. We 
 steered south-east and by south. Proceeding towards Nadir, 
 the course altered, and we steered due east. The river here 
 
 appeared 
 
 ' We have called it Orobanche insignis. This was also found between Aboukir 
 and Rosetta, at the same time. Orobanche, caule simplici, corollis infiatis, recurvis, 
 quinquefidis , laciniis integerrimis, calycibus quinquepartitis, bracteis ternis quater- 
 nisve, spica imbricata, oblungd, crassissima ; antheris hirsutis. 
 
 IV. A non-descript shrubby species of Salsola, belonging to that division of the genus 
 called Sueda by Forskahl and Pallas, and distinguished principally by the want of 
 the membranaceous wing to the calyx. The species is very much branched, with 
 the bark of an ash colour ; the smaller branches very leafy ; the leaves two to three 
 lines long, a little convex below ; the flowers are attended by three small bracts, 
 and generally ternate, but are found also solitary j the seeds black and shining, 
 very small. We have called it Salsola nitida. This was found in the neighbour- 
 hood of Rosetta. Salsola fruticosa, foliis ovatis supra planiusculis , glabris, obtusis ; 
 
 floribus axillaribus sub ternis ; calycibus Jructiferis inappendiculatis , conniventibus ; 
 seminibus reniformibus turgidis. 
 
 V. A non-descript species of Wall-flower, (Cheiranthus Linn.) the short stems of 
 which spread upon the ground, and seldom extend beyond the radical leaves : 
 these measure two and a half or three inches in length '; the flowers in loose racemes, 
 with purple petals, broad and notched at the end, and interwoven with dark veins } 
 the pods compressed, an inch to an inch and a half in length, with a large three- 
 cornered head, and thinly covered (like every part of the plant, the petals, stamens, 
 and roots excepted) with white forky hairs. We have called it Cheiranthus 
 humilis. This grew in the neighbourhood of Rosetta. Cheiranthus pubescens, 
 humilis ; pilis dichotomis ; foliis anguslis elongatis omnibus pinnatifidis ; siliauis 
 compressis, linearibus, tricuspidatis calycibusque pubescentibus. 
 
TO GRAND CAIRO. 
 
 4cz 
 o 
 
 appeared like an immense lake. A singular phenomenon 
 engrossed all our attention. One of those immense columns 
 of sand, mentioned by Bruce, came rapidly towards us, 
 turning upon its base as upon a pivot : it crossed the Nile 
 so near us, that the whirlwind by which it was carried 
 placed our vessel upon its beam-ends, bearing its large sail 
 quite into the water, and nearly upsetting the boat. As we 
 were engaged in righting the vessel, the column disappeared. 
 It is not probable that those columns fall suddenly upon 
 any particular spot, so as to be capable of overwhelming 
 an army or a caravan ; but that, as the sand, thus driven, is 
 gradually accumulated, it becomes gradually dispersed, and, 
 the column diminishing in its progress, at length disappears. 
 A great quantity of sand is no doubt precipitated as the effect 
 which gathers it becomes weaker ; but, from witnessing such 
 phenomena upon a smaller scale, it does not seem likely 
 that the whole body of the sand is at once abandoned. 
 
 Parties of young Arabs continually accompanied our djerm 
 this day, running along the banks of the river, and tumbling, 
 to obtain a few paras, as we see children in many parts of 
 England ; sometimes walking upon their hands, with their 
 heels in the air; at others, whirling upon their hands and 
 feet, to imitate the motion of a wheel. Judging from the 
 appearance these presented, the Arab complexion, at a very 
 early age, is tawny, and almost black. They swim and dive 
 remarkably well; but these are arts in which all Oriental 
 nations excel those of the Western world. About three 
 leagues before our arrival at Kafrakadia, there was such an 
 
 amazing 
 
 CHAP. II. 
 
 Remarkable 
 Phamomenon. 
 
 Tumblers. 
 

 
 JifWiWShMfei^jWSWr*^ 
 
 44 
 
 VOYAGE UP THE NILE 
 
 CHAP. II. 
 
 Abundance 
 of Corn. 
 
 Southern 
 Point of the 
 Delta. 
 
 Arrival at 
 BulAc. 
 
 View of the 
 Pyramids. 
 
 amazing quantity of corn formed into heaps near the river, 
 that it extended nearly to the length of a mile. At this 
 last-mentioned place there was a manufactory for extracting 
 a dark blue dye from the indigo plant. Here girls of four- 
 teen or fifteen years of age walked the streets, with jars of 
 water upon their heads, perfectly naked. Our course latterly 
 had varied occasionally from s. e. to s. w. At half past six 
 p. m. we reached that part of the Nile where the river divides, 
 so as to inclose the Delta by the Rosetta and Damiata 
 branches. Its appearance above the point of separation 
 was truly noble, being at this time three miles wide. The 
 village or town of Beersamps stands upon the southern point 
 of the Delta. Koutomey is upon the western side of the 
 main river, and Kafranamooh upon the eastern. After we 
 had passed the point of Beersamps, our course along the 
 undivided bed of the Nile was s. e. We arrived at Bulac 
 at midnight ; having thus performed a voyage from Rosetta 
 to the quay of Cairo in thirty-six hours, against the utmost 
 force and rapidity of the torrent. 
 
 On Wednesday, the twelfth of August, we were roused, 
 as soon as the sun dawned, by Antony, our faithful Greek 
 servant and interpreter, with the intelligence that the 
 Pyramids were in view. We hastened from the cabin ; — 
 and never will the impression made by their appearance 
 be obliterated. By reflecting the sun's rays, they ap- 
 peared as white as snow, and of such surprising mag- 
 nitude, that nothing we had previously conceived in our 
 imagination had prepared us for the spectacle we beheld. 
 
 The 
 
TO GRAND CAIRO. 
 
 The sight instantly convinced us that no power of de- 
 scription, no delineation, can convey ideas adequate to the 
 effect produced in viewing these stupendous monuments. 
 The formality of their structure is lost in their prodigious 
 magnitude : the mind, elevated by wonder, feels at once the 
 force of an axiom, which, however disputed, experience 
 confirms, — that in vastness, whatsoever be its nature, there 
 dwells sublimity 1 . Another proof of their indescribable 
 power is, that no one ever approached them under other 
 emotions than those of terror ; which is another principal 
 source of the sublime 2 . In certain instances of irritable 
 feeling, this impression of awe and fear has been so great, 
 as to cause pain rather than pleasure 5 ; of which we shall 
 have to record a very striking instance in the sequel. Hence, 
 perhaps, have originated descriptions of the Pyramids which 
 represent them as deformed and gloomy masses, without 
 taste or beauty. Persons who have derived no satisfaction 
 
 from 
 
 45 
 
 CHAP. II. 
 
 (1) " Sublime objects are vast in their dimensions." Burke on the Sublime, &c. 
 Sect. 27. Part 3. p. 237. Lond. 1782. 
 
 (2) Ibid. 
 
 (3) Confirming, in a striking manner, these words of Burke, concerning the dis- 
 tinctions of greatness and beauty: " They are indeed ideas of a very different nature; 
 one being founded on pain, the other on pleasure.'' (Ibid.) Having referred to 
 the opinions of this truly great philosopher, upon a subject so interesting to every 
 reflecting mind, it may not be unseasonable to insert here a brief comparison between 
 the theories of Longinus and Burke. There appears to be as much difference in them 
 as between mechanism and intellect ; between the operations of a piece of clock-work 
 and those of human reason. Longinus directs us to the effects of the sublime ; Burke 
 points out its causes. Longinus teaches us to seek for the subMme without us; Burke, to 
 create it within ourselves. Longinus views it in its broad and well-known channel; 
 Burke conducts us to its source. 
 

 
 Warn DBH TiCTfiTPinTfTifir; i ■-••■'-• '-'-'- * ■■■ 
 
 
 DanaaaBBaaaBBBB 
 
 46' 
 
 CHAP. II. 
 
 Visit to the 
 Reis Effeudi. 
 
 House of the 
 
 French 
 
 Institute. 
 
 GRAND CAIRO. 
 
 from the contemplation of them, may not have been 
 conscious that the uneasiness they experienced was a result 
 of their own sensibility. Others have acknowledged ideas 
 widely different, excited by every wonderful circumstance of 
 character and of situation ; — ideas of duration, almost endless ; 
 of power, inconceivable ; of majesty, supreme ; of solitude, 
 most awful ; of grandeur, of desolation, and of repose. 
 
 As soon as we landed, we met several officers from India, 
 belonging to the sixty-first regiment, then stationed in the 
 Isle of Rhouda, in the Nile ; where the Indian army was 
 encamped. They had been, upon asses, to Cairo. We 
 profited by their return, to hire the same animals, with their 
 drivers, in order to be conducted to the house of the Reis 
 Effendi. The Reis understood something of the English 
 language, and spoke French remarkably well. He had been 
 in England ; and had written a work upon the manufactures, 
 manners, customs, and laws of Great Britain. Of this 
 curious document we never could obtain a sight, although 
 it is often sold, among the other manuscripts, by the 
 booksellers in Cairo and Constantinople. Perhaps he 
 did not choose to make our countrymen at that time 
 acquainted with his sentiments upon these subjects. He 
 told us, he found every thing very good in London, 
 especially veal and cyder, but that nothing was cheap. 
 We gave him a letter from the Capudan Pasha, and he 
 promised to render us all the service in his power. His 
 janissaries conducted us, at our request, to Colonel Holloway, 
 who, with Major Hope, and other officers of the artillery, 
 were quartered in a large building, where the French Members 
 
 of 
 
GRAND CAIRO. 
 
 of the Institute held their sittings during the time they 
 were in possession of Cairo. Having presented our letters to 
 the Colonel, we were received by him with great politeness, 
 and were afterwards indebted to him for every civility it was 
 in his power to show us. He introduced us to Dr. Whitman, 
 who has since published an account of his travels ; and under- 
 took to forward our letters to England, and to present us to 
 the Grand Vizir. In the court belonging to the house where 
 these officers resided, were several interesting articles of 
 antiquity, abandoned by the French upon the surrender of 
 the city. Among these was the stele of porphyry which is 
 now deposited in the Vestibule of the University Library 
 at Cambridge. Colonel Holloway kindly permitted us to 
 remove this to England. We placed it in the prow of 
 our djerm ; thereby giving it the appearanGe of a gun- 
 boat, to awe the pirates upon the river, during our 
 subsequent voyage, in returning to Rosetta. There were 
 also in this court certain fragments of Egyptian statues, 
 formed of the substance commonly called Antient basalt, 
 which is a variety of trap, exceedingly compact, and sus- 
 ceptible of a very high polish. But the most remarkable 
 relique of the wmole collection, since unaccountably neg- 
 lected, (for it is, in all probability, still lying where we left 
 it,) was a very large slab, covered with an inscription, in 
 Hieroglyphic, Egyptian, and Greek characters, exactly similar 
 to the famous trilinguar stone now in the British Museum 1 . 
 
 Upon 
 
 47 
 
 CHAP. II. 
 
 (l) Its being left in Egypt is a circumstance wholly unaccountable. It was once 
 Colonel Holloway's intention to have allowed us also the privilege of conveying this 
 
 interesting 
 
48 
 
 GRAND CAIRO. 
 
 chap. ii. Upon the following day, Thursday, August the thirteenth, 
 
 we again visited the Reis Effendi; who promised us an 
 escort to the Pyramids, and said that a day should be 
 appointed for our presentation to the Vizir, at that time 
 Jewel Market, in Cairo. Afterward we visited the bazars, expecting 
 to obtain from the jewellers' shops of this city some of the 
 precious minerals of the East, at a reasonable rate. Not 
 a single specimen worth notice could be procured. The 
 French had bought up almost every thing; and perhaps the 
 frequent disturbances which had happened in the city had 
 caused the concealment of every valuable commodity. 
 Among the goldsmiths we found only two antique intaglio 
 gems, and a few medals of very little value, such as large 
 copper coins of the Ptolemies. The cotton shawls manu- 
 factured in England would find a ready sale in this place. 
 They asked two hundred piastres even for old turbans which 
 had been mended. In the fruit-market we saw fresh dates, 
 exceeding fine grapes, and peaches. Sausages were dressed, 
 and sold hot in the streets, as in London : but whether the 
 
 ingredients 
 
 interesting piece of antiquity to our own country. We did not afterwards discover the 
 reason which prevented the fulfilment of this liberal design ; and we were too much in- 
 debted to his politeness and hospitality to attribute it to any other cause than a desire 
 to ensure its safe transportation, by entrusting it to men better provided with means for 
 its removal. But, as it still remains in Cairo, some notice should be taken of it, that 
 measures may be adopted to prevent its being finally lost. It should also be added, that 
 the inscriptions upon this stone are much effaced. The Greek characters are so little 
 legible, that the Author could not succeed in copying them. But there is a wide diffe- 
 rence between the opportunity offered for that purpose, when exposed to the heat of 
 an open court at Cairo in the middle of August, and a leisurely examination of the sur- 
 face of the stone, with precisely the degree of light proper for the undertaking. 
 
GRAND CAIRO. 
 
 49 
 
 CHAF. II. 
 
 ingredients were pork, or any other meat, we did not 
 inquire. To describe the interior of the city would be only 
 to repeat what has been often said of all Turkish towns ; 
 with this difference, that there is not perhaps upon earth 
 a more dirty metropolis. Every place is covered with dust ; 
 and its particles are so minute, that it rises into all the 
 courts and chambers of the city. The streets are destitute 
 of any kind of pavement : they exhibit, therefore, a series 
 of narrow dusty lanes, between gloomy walls. It is well 
 known that Europeans were formerly compelled to walk, 
 or to ride upon asses, through these streets ; nor had the 
 practice been wholly abandoned when we arrived ; for, 
 although some of our officers appeared occasionally on horse- 
 back, many of them ambled about, in their uniforms, upon 
 the jack-asses let for hire by the Arabs. Horses were not 
 easily procured. To ride these, it was necessary first to 
 buy them. And even when riding upon asses, if a favour- 
 able opportunity offered, when our military were not in 
 sight, the attendants of the rich Turks, running on foot 
 before their horses to clear the way, made every Christian 
 descend and walk, until the bearded grandee had passed. 
 We noticed several jugglers exhibiting their craft in the Jugglers 
 streets of Cairo ; bearing in their hands a kind of toy, 
 common in England, consisting of a number of pieces of 
 wood, in the shape of playing-cards, strung together, and 
 revolving from top to bottom ; such as are called by 
 children trick- track, and are often painted to display the 
 Cries of London. These toys seemed to delight the Arabs, 
 who considered them as put together by magic. For the 
 vol. in. h rest 
 
wmm- 
 
 <5ii.'*A.!| 
 
 [ 
 
 ■■H 
 
 50 
 
 CHAP. II. 
 
 Trees. 
 
 GRAND CAIRO. 
 
 rest of the exhibition, it much resembled the shows of our 
 mountebanks ; each party having its Merry Andrew, who 
 endured hard kicks and cuffs for the amusement of the 
 populace. 
 
 By means of the canal which intersects the city, now filled 
 with its muddy water, we visited great part of Cairo in a boat. 
 The prodigious number of gardens give it so pleasing an 
 appearance, and the trees growing in those gardens are so 
 new to the eyes of a European, that, for a moment, he 
 forgets the innumerable abominations of the dirtiest metro- 
 polis in the world. Many of the most conspicuous of these 
 trees have been often described, but not all of them. The 
 most beautiful among them, the Mimosa Lebbeck, has not 
 even been mentioned in any account yet published of the 
 city. This is the more extraordinary, as it grows upon the 
 banks of the canal ; and its long weeping branches, pendent 
 to the surface of the water, could not escape notice. We 
 brought the seeds of it to the Garden of Natural History at 
 Cambridge, where it has since flourished. This plant has 
 been hitherto so little known in Europe, that although 
 cultivated in some botanic gardens for more than half a 
 century, it has never been properly recognized. About 
 thirty years ago, Professor Jacquin, who received some seeds 
 of it from the East Indies, described it as a new species, 
 under the name of Mimosa speciosa ; and by this name it is 
 still distinguished in the English catalogues. It grows 
 promiscuously with the Gum Arabic Acacia, or Mimosa 
 Niloika: both of these, and also the Mimosa Senegal, are 
 seen adorning the sides of the canal. Hasselquist says, that 
 
 he 
 
GRAND CAIRO. 
 
 51 
 
 Gum Arabic. 
 
 he saw the two last growing wild in the sandy desert, near 
 the antient sepulchres of the Egyptians 1 . The Mimosa 
 Nilotica, or Acacia vera, produces the frankincense. It is incense 
 gathered in vast quantities from trees growing near the most 
 northern bay of the Red Sea, at the foot of Mount Sinai ; 
 and called Thus, by the dealers in Egypt, from Thur and 
 Thor, which is the name of a harbour in that bay ; thereby 
 being distinguished from the Gum Arabic which comes from 
 Suez*. These gums, says Hasselquist, differ in other parti- 
 culars besides their localities; the first being limpid and 
 colourless ; the latter less pellucid, and of a brown, or dirty 
 vellow colour 1 . We purchased a considerable quantity of 
 the white gum. The fragrant odour diffused in burning it is 
 well known ; but its operation, as an enlivener of the spirits, 
 in persons of weak health, does not seem to have been much 
 regarded. Perhaps the pleasing antidote it affords to the 
 effects of foul air in crowded assembly-rooms, may possibly 
 hereafter give it a place among the luxuries of London and 
 Paris. Hitherto the sacred Sabrean odour has been exclusively 
 reserved for the religious ceremonies of the Greek and Roman 
 churches ; and that which was once considered an offering 
 worthy the altars of the Most High God, now scarcely ob- 
 tains any notice. Fifteen hundred years before the Christian 
 aera, the ordinances concerning incense 4 were delivered to 
 
 the 
 
 CHAP. II. 
 
 (1) Travels to the East, p. 250. Lond. 1776. 
 
 (2) Ibid. 
 
 (3) Ibid. 
 
 (A) " And thou shalt make an altar to burn incense upon." Exod, xxx. 1, 
 
r^mu^Ss ■ ^X£»^^^^^'^iiie& ^^^^H 
 
 OTWCTQBMHH 
 
 -*4Ati : ik'msiijkt; 
 
 
 Plagues of 
 
 Egypt- 
 
 GRAND CAIRO. 
 
 the leader of the Jewish nation ; and the history of the most 
 antient Pagan rites also bears testimony to a similar custom. 
 It seems evident, from the words of Scripture, that the 
 practice of burning incense, among the Jews, was introduced 
 with reference to the supposed salutary nature of the ex- 
 halation. Immediately following the ordinance for its use, 
 it is stated, that the time of burning it shall be at the dressing 
 and lighting of the lamps 1 ; when an offensive smell, thereby 
 created, might probably have pervaded the temple. What- 
 ever may have been the cause of its original introduction 
 among the sacrifices, whether of the Jews or Heathens, its 
 being appropriated to the service of the Temple long caused 
 it to be held in superstitious veneration. Many medical 
 properties, which it never possessed, have been attributed to 
 it ; and, down to the latest ages, considered as an offering 
 acceptable unto Heaven, it has been celebrated as giving 
 efficacy to prayer, or, in the language of poetry, as wafting to 
 Paradise the orisons of men. 
 
 The mercury in Fahrenheit's thermometer seemed at this 
 time fixed. It remained at Q0° for several days, without the 
 smallest perceptible change. Almost every European suffered 
 an inflammation of the eyes. Many were troubled with 
 cutaneous disorders. The prickly heat was very common. 
 This was attributed to drinking the muddy water of the Nile, 
 the inhabitants having no other. Their mode of purifying 
 
 it, 
 
 (l) " And Aaron shall burn thereon sweet incense every morning : when he dresseth 
 the lamps, he shall burn incense upon it. And when Aaron Lighteth the lamps at even, 
 he shall burn incense upon it ; a perpetual incense before the Lord, throughout your 
 generations." Exod. xxx. 7, 8. 
 
GRAND CAIRO. 
 
 53 
 
 it, in a certain degree, is by rubbing the inside of the water- 
 vessels with bruised almonds : this precipitates a portion of 
 the mud, but it is never quite clear. Many persons were 
 afflicted with sores upon the skin, which were called " Boils 
 of the Nile ;" and dysenterical complaints were universal. 
 A singular species of lizard made its appearance in every 
 chamber, having circular membranes at the extremity of 
 its feet, which gave it such tenacity that it crawled upon 
 panes of glass, or upon the surface of pendent mirrors. This 
 revolting sight was common to every apartment, whether in 
 the houses of the rich or of the poor. At the same time, 
 such a plague of flies covered all things with their swarms, 
 that it was impossible to eat without hiring persons to stand 
 by every table with feathers, or flappers, to drive them 
 away. Liquor could not be poured into a glass ; the mode 
 of drinking was, by keeping the mouth of every bottle 
 covered until the moment it was applied to the lips; and 
 instantly covering it with the palm of the hand, when re- 
 moving it to offer to any one else. The utmost attention to 
 cleanliness, by a frequent change of every article of wearing 
 apparel, could not repel the attacks of the swarms of vermin 
 which seemed to infest even the air of the place. A 
 gentleman made his appearance, before a party he had invited 
 to dinner, completely covered with lice. The only ex- 
 planation he could give as to the cause was, that he had 
 sat for a short time in one of the boats upon the canal. 
 Perhaps objection may be made to a statement, even of 
 facts, which refers to no pleasing theme; but the author 
 does not conceive it possible to give Englishmen a correct 
 
 notion 
 
 CHAP. II. 
 

 54 
 
 CHAP. H. 
 
 Statistics of 
 Cairo. 
 
 GRAND CAIRO. 
 
 notion of the trials to which they will be exposed in visiting; 
 this country, without calling some things by their names. 
 The insects of the Nile are many of them also common 
 to the Don : other instances of similarity in the two 
 rivers have been before noticed 1 . The gardens of Cairo 
 are filled with turtle-doves, whose melancholy notes suit 
 the solitary disposition of the Turks. Their music has the 
 same plaintive character. The houses of the city are larger 
 and better-built than those of Constantinople, the founda- 
 tions being of stone, and the superstructure bricks and 
 mortar ; but they have the same gloomy appearance externally. 
 The interior consists principally of timber. The French had 
 pulled down many houses, in order to get fuel : owing to this, 
 and to the commotions that had taken place, a considerable 
 part of the city appeared in ruins. The inhabitants generally 
 ride upon mules or asses: the latter are so active in this 
 country, and possess such extraordinary strength, that for all 
 purposes of labour, even for carrying heavy burthens across 
 the sandy desert, they are next in utility to the camel, and 
 will bear work better than horses. The horse in Egypt is 
 used rather as an animal of parade, than for essential service. 
 The vast army of the Wahabees in the desert were said to 
 be mounted upon camels and upon asses. The population 
 of Cairo consisted at this time of Arabs and Mamlukes, for 
 the chief part ; and, besides these, were Copts, Jews, and 
 Greeks, together with the adventitious multitude caused by 
 
 the 
 
 (1) See Vol. I. p. 270. Second edition. 
 
GRAND CAIRO 
 
 55 
 
 CHAP. II. 
 
 the events of war, which had filled the streets of the city 
 with the Sepoys and various casts of India, with Turks, 
 Italians, French and English soldiers, merchants, and adven- 
 turers of every description. The Indian army under General British Army 
 
 _ from India. 
 
 Baird was encamped in the Isle of Rhouda, and presented the 
 finest military spectacle it is possible to conceive ; offering 
 a striking contrast to the appearance of the troops from 
 England, which were encamped upon the Alexandrian Plain. 
 The Indian army, in possession of abundant supplies, and 
 having all the comforts which wealth and power could 
 bestow, might be considered rather as an encampment of 
 mightiest princes than of private men. The tents of its sub- 
 alterns were superior to the marquees of general-officers in 
 the English army, where the Commander-in-chief lived as the 
 poorest soldier, and wretchedness and privation were the 
 standing orders of the day*. Every morning, at sun-rise, as 
 in Lord Hutchinson's army, a gun was fired, and the whole 
 line of the troops from India were under arms, amounting 
 to 3000 men. At this hour, we often resorted to the Isle 
 of Rhouda, to view the magnificent parade. An immense 
 
 grove 
 
 (2) The luxury and pomp of the Indian army may be conceived, by simply stating 
 the fact, that glavs lustres, manufactured in London, exported to India, and thence con- 
 veyed, after a voyage up the Red Sea, upon the backs of camels across the desert from 
 Cosseir to the Nile, were suspended in the audience-pavilion of the Commander-in-chief. 
 Breakfasting with a lieutenant of the sixty-first regiment, we were regaled with white bread, 
 and fresh butter, made upon the spot for the occasion, (which perhaps had never been 
 seen before in Egypt,) fruit, cream, tea, coffee, and chocolate. The impression made by 
 external splendor, upon men, characterized as are the inhabitants of the Turkish empire, 
 is more effectual for the advancement of our political interests in the East, than the 
 operations of war. An ignorant Moslem attaches higher ideas of power to the appear- 
 ance of wealth , than to any effect of military strength. 
 
jTffffiTTTTnTfrrrrnj !g| g H gJ Wi' t ww 
 
 56 
 
 CHAP. II. 
 
 Dinner given 
 by the Com- 
 mander-in- 
 Chief. 
 
 GRAND CAIRO. . 
 
 grove of the most enormous sycamore fig-trees, larger than 
 any of our forest trees', secured almost the whole army 
 from the rays of the sun. Troops in such a state of military 
 perfection, or better suited for active service, were never seen, 
 not even in the famous parade of the chosen Ten-thousand 
 belonging to Buonaparte's legions, which he was so vain 
 of displaying, before the present war, in the front of the 
 Thuilleries at Paris. Not an unhealthy soldier was to be 
 seen. The English inured to the climate of India con- 
 sidered that of Egypt as temperate in its effects ; and the 
 sepoys seemed as fond of the Nile as of the Ganges. After 
 General Baird had inspected the line, the sepoys were 
 marched to Cairo, where, having piled their arms before 
 one of the principal mosques, they all joined the Moslems 
 in their devotions, — to the surprise and satisfaction of the 
 Turks and Arabs, who speedily circulated a report over 
 Cairo, that the English army was filled with soldiers be- 
 longing to the Faithful. These men were all volunteers ; 
 and no instance had ever occurred of their being conveyed 
 so far from their native land at any former period. 
 
 A dinner given by General Baird to all the English officers, 
 and others of our countrymen in Cairo, took place while 
 the camp remained upon the Isle of Rhouda. We were 
 invited : and the scene was so extraordinary, that it ought 
 
 to 
 
 (l) The Editor of Hasselquist's Travels has mistaken his measure of circumference for 
 diameter : — " This is a huge tree, the stem being often fifty feet thick." See Hasselquist's 
 Travels, p. 25Q. Lond. 1766. It cannot surely be intended that the sycamore- trees of 
 Egypt were nearly nineteen yards in diameter. 
 
GRAND CAIRO. 
 
 57 
 
 to be noticed. The dinner was given in the pavilion before 
 mentioned : this was lighted by glass lustres suspended from 
 an enormous bamboo cane, sustaining the inner covering 
 of the tent; and by wax candles in glass cylinders. English 
 porter, roasted pigs, and other English fare, together with 
 port, claret, and Madeira wines, appeared upon the table. 
 The dinner was cooked by Indian servants, upon the sand 
 near the tent ; and a view of the extraordinary clean- 
 liness observed by these cooks, as well as of their peculiar 
 habits, were among the most curious parts of the exhibi- 
 tion. Having drawn a line around them, they suffered no 
 person to pass this boundary. The rules of their cast 
 enjoined that none of the cooking vessels should be touched, 
 except by their own hands. After dinner the officers 
 smoked the hooka: every pipe had its peculiar attendant upon 
 the outside of the tent ; the long flexible tubes alone being 
 brought under the sides of the pavilion to those seated at 
 table. The servants in waiting were principally negroes, 
 dressed in white turbans with muslin jackets, but without 
 stockings or shoes. The upper part of the pavilion was 
 adorned with beautiful net-work, the hangings were of 
 green silk, and the floor covered with Indian mats. The 
 tables were of polished mahogany; and the company 
 present in full uniform ; — an association of things so incon- 
 gruous with the natural horrors and barbarism of the 
 country, upon the border of an interminable desert, and 
 in the midst of such a river as the Nile, where persons 
 from India and from England were met to banquet together, 
 that perhaps no similar result of commerce and of conquest 
 vol. in. i is 
 
 CHAP. II. 
 

 3'«^'A^^,V*"'.:«Vj , *«S*ii l *ti*;i'>-T 
 
 
 58 
 
 CHAP. II. 
 
 Discovery 
 made by 
 Brahmins in 
 Upper Egypt. 
 
 Examination 
 of an Abyssi- 
 nian concern- 
 ing Bruce's 
 Travels. 
 
 GRAND CAIRO. 
 
 is ever likely to occur again, in any part of the habitable 
 globe. Upon this occasion we heard the extraordinary 
 fact, maintained and confirmed by indisputable testimony, 
 that certain Brahmins who had accompanied the Indian 
 army in its march from the Red Sea to the Nile, from 
 Cosseir to Ken6, saw at Dendera the representation of 
 their God Vishnu among the antient sculpture of the 
 place 1 ; and were with difficulty restrained by their officers 
 from assaulting the Arabs, on account of the neglected state 
 in which his temple, as they supposed, was suffered to 
 remain. The officers of General Baird's army spoke highly 
 of the accuracy of Bruce's observations ; and the General 
 himself assured us, that he considered Great Britain as 
 indebted to Bruce's valuable Chart of the Red Sea, for 
 the safety of the transports employed in conveying the 
 British forces. 
 
 At this time there happened to arrive in Cairo an 
 Abyssinian Dean, a negro, who had undertaken his immense 
 journey for religious purposes, and then resided in the mo- 
 nastery belonging to the Propaganda Friars 2 . The author had 
 been often engaged in noting from this man's account of 
 his country, some information respecting the state of Chris- 
 tianity in Abyssinia ; and had purchased of him a written 
 copy of the Gospel of St. John, together with certain 
 
 prayers 
 
 (1) It were to be wished that some officer belonging to the Indian army, who was 
 present upon that occasion, would specify what particular figure the Brahmins con- 
 ceived to be a representation of Vishnu. 
 
 (2) There are two monasteries in Cairo • one called the Terra Sancta, and the 
 other the Propaganda, Monastery. 
 
GRAND CAIRO. 
 
 59 
 
 prayers in the Abyssinian language: these manuscripts chap. u. 
 are now in the Bodleian Library at Oxford. As General 
 Baird had a copy of Bruce's Travels then in his posses- 
 sion, and was kind enough to allow us the use of it, a 
 better opportunity might rarely ofler of submitting Bruce's 
 narrative to the test of a comparison with the evidence 
 afforded by a native of Abyssinia. We therefore appointed 
 a day for this purpose ; and sent an invitation to the 
 Abyssinian Dean. In order to make the inquiry as public 
 as possible, we also requested the attendance of Mr. 
 Hamilton, secretary of the Earl of Elgin, of Dr. Whitman, 
 and of Mr. Hammer, a celebrated Oriental scholar, during 
 the investigation. One of the Propaganda Friars served 
 us as our interpreter with the Abyssinian priest. It was 
 at first disputed whether any mention should be made of 
 Bruce, or not ; but at length we resolved that a series 
 of questions should be put from Bruce's work, without 
 any mention being made of him, or any allusion to his 
 travels in Abyssinia. The sight of his volumes on the table 
 were not likely to offer any clue, respecting the purport of 
 our inquiry, to an ^Ethiopian who had never seen a printed 
 quarto before in his life, and to whom the language in which 
 it was written was altogether unknown. His testimony, 
 therefore, as a native of Abyssinia, to the accuracy of Bruce's 
 description of the country, will not be disregarded ; and 
 the following result of our conversation with him may 
 
 terminate this chapter 5 . 
 
 Our 
 
 (3) There lias not been an example, in the annals of literature, of more unfair and 
 disgraceful hostility than that which an intolerant and invidious party too successfully 
 
 levelled, 
 

 
 
 60 
 
 CHAP. II. 
 
 GRAND CAIRO. 
 
 Our first questions related to the place of his birth; 
 and of his usual residence before he left Abyssinia. In 
 answer to these he stated, that* he was born at Gellebedda\ 
 in the province of Tigre, whose capital is Adowa\ dis- 
 tant twenty-five or thirty days from the Nile, and sixteen 
 or seventeen from Massuah upon the Red Sea ; that his 
 usual place of residence, and to which he should return, 
 
 after 
 
 levelled, during a considerable period, against the writings of Bruce. Soon after the 
 publication of his " Travels to discover the Source of the Nile," several copies of the 
 work were sold in Dublin as waste paper, in consequence of the calumnies circulated 
 against the author's veracity. This happened in the year 179 1 - 1° the year] 800, 
 Mr. John Antes, of Fulnec in Yorkshire, published a small volume of " Observations on 
 Egypt;' a work not less remarkable for its fidelity and genuine worth, than for the 
 little notice it received. Speaking of Bruce, that author observes : " When Mr. Bruce 
 returned from Abyssinia, I was at Grand Cairo. I had the pleasure of his company for 
 three months, almost every day: and having, at that time, myself an idea of penetrating 
 into Abyssinia, I was very inquisitive about that country, on hearing many things from 
 him which seemed almost incredible tome. I used to ask his Greek servant Michael 
 (a simple fellow, incapable of any invention) about the same circumstances, and must 
 
 SAY THAT HE COMMONLY AGREED WITH HIS MASTER IN THE CHIEF POINTS." (See 
 
 Observat. on the Mann, and Cust. of the Egyptians, by John Jntes, Esq. p. I/, Lond. 
 1800.) Many stronger testimonies in favour of Bruce's accuracy have also at different 
 times been adduced, particularly by Mr. Browne (See Pref. to his Travels) ; and the 
 work has consequently risen very considerably in the public estimation. Some tra- 
 vellers, indeed, have attempted to invalidate certain of his assertions, which, after all, are 
 not of much moment, whether they be true or false •. such, for example, as the cir- 
 cumstance related by Bruce of the part he took in the wars of the country; and of the 
 practice he witnessed of taking flesh from a living animal, as an article of food : this 
 last has, however, now been fully confirmed by the statement of the native priest, as 
 given above. It is probable that Bruce would never have encountered the opposition 
 he met with, if his writings had not been characterized by offending egotism. Baron 
 de Tott's work experienced a similar fate, from the same cause ; and has similarly 
 obtained, at last, the consideration to which, by its great merit, it is justly entitled. 
 
 (2) This place is mentioned in Mr. Salt's Narrative, as published by Lord Valentia, 
 and written Gullybudda. (See vol. III. p. 71. Lond. 180Q.) He describes it as 
 " a place of considerable extent and population." 
 
 (3) Bruce also describes Adowa, as being the capital of Tigre. A view of the 
 town accompanies Mr. Salt's Narrative, in Lord Valentia's Travels, vol. III. p. 76. 
 Lond. 180Q. 
 
Gil A ND CAIRO. 
 
 61 
 
 vations con- 
 firmed. 
 
 after leaving Cairo, was a village about fifteen days' journey chap^ii. 
 from Gondar. We asked him what kind of coin was 
 circulated in his native province : he said that fossil salt was 
 used in Tigre as a substitute for money 4 . 
 
 Our next inquiry related to the long-disputed fact, of Fidelity of 
 
 . . r r _. Bruce'sObser- 
 
 a practice among the Abyssinians or cutting from a live 
 animal slices of its flesh, as an article of food, without 
 putting it to death. This Bruce affirms that he witnessed in 
 his journey from Massuah to Axum 5 . The Abyssinian, 
 answering, informed us, that the soldiers of the country, 
 during their marauding excursions, sometimes maim cows after 
 this manner, taking slices from their bodies, as a favourite 
 article of food, without putting them to death at the time ; and 
 that during the banquets of the Abyssinians, raw meat, 
 esteemed delicious throughout the country, is frequently tahen 
 from an ox or a cow, in such a state that the fibres are in 
 motion ; and that the attendants continue to cut slices until the 
 animal dies. This answer exactly corresponds with Bruce's 
 Narrative : he expressly states that the persons whom he saw 
 were soldiers 6 , and the animal a cow 7 . Such a coincidence 
 
 could 
 
 (4) Mr. Salt, speaking of a manufacture of cloth at Adowa, s.iys, it circulates as 
 money through the country ; but he adds, " Each piece is about sixteen cubits long, and 
 one and three quarters wide.: its value is thirty pieces of salt, or one dollar." Valmtids 
 Travels, vol. III. p. 78. Lond. I8O9. Also in vol. 111. p. 54, " The small enrrency 
 {at Ant alow) consisted of wedges of rock-salt, each weighing two or three pounds, and 
 estimated at -,V of a dollar." 
 
 (5) Braces Travels, vol. III. p. 142. Edinb. 1790. "When I first mentioned this 
 in England, I was told by my friends it was not believed. I asked the re.'.son of this 
 disbelief and was answered, that people who had never been out of their own country, 
 and others well acquainted with the manners of the world, for they had travelled as far 
 as France, had agreed the thing was impossible, and therefore it was so." Ibid. p. 144. 
 
 (6) Bruce's Travels, ibid. p. 142. (7) Ibid. 
 

 HUHHi 
 
 ■■^^^^^^^^^^^^^^M 
 
 ;.-.-.-.--:.—- 
 
 GRAND CAIRO. 
 
 could hardly have happened, unless the practice really existed. 
 We inquired if other animals were thus treated ; and were 
 answered in the negative. Mutton is always boiled ; and 
 veal is never eaten, in any way '. In times of famine alone 
 the inhabitants eat boiled blood. 
 
 Among other absurd accusations brought against Bruce, 
 a very popular charge at one time was, that some of the 
 plants engraved in his work never existed in nature, but 
 were the offspring of his own fertile imagination. We 
 therefore resolved next to exhibit the engravings to our 
 Abyssinian, and desire him to name the plants, and to 
 describe their properties. It was impossible that this man 
 should read, and much less comprehend, the Abyssinian 
 names which Bruce's engraver had inscribed upon the 
 bottom of those plates. 
 
 The first plates offered to his notice were those which 
 represent the Sassa*. He recognised the plants, but knew 
 nothing of the name Bruce had given them, and denied that # 
 any gum was produced by them. Matters went on more 
 swimmingly when the next were shewn to him. He named 
 the following instantly, and gave the same account of them 
 that Bruce had done ; namely, Ergett Dimmo ; Ergett 
 el Krone ; En set e; Kol- Quail \ Gir Gir; Kantuffa; &c. all 
 of whose Abyssinian appellations he pronounced exactly as 
 Bruce had written them. The Ergett el Ri*one, he said, 
 grew near the Lake Tzana, and in every part of Abyssinia ; 
 
 but 
 
 (1) This agrees with the account published by Lord Valentia, from Mr. Salt's Journal. 
 See Valentids Travels, vol. III. p. \5Q. Lond. I8O9. 
 
 (2) Bruce's Travels, Appendix, p. 28. 
 
GRAND CAIRO. 
 
 but that it was of no use to the inhabitants. He described 
 the leaves of the Ensete as resembling those of the Banana ; 
 but the plant as yielding no fruit. They boil the root of it, as 
 a garden vegetable, with mutton. The Kol-Quall he named 
 instantly ; saying, that, on beating it, it yields a quantity of 
 milk, which is poisonous, but may be used as a cement, 
 capable of joining two pieces of stone. Its smaller 
 branches, when dry, are used for candles ; and its wood 
 serves for timber, in building houses. It produces no gum 3 . 
 Bruce relates all this; and adds, that upon cutting two 
 branches of the Kol-Quall with his sabre, not less than four 
 English gallons of the milk issued out ; which was so caustic, 
 that although he washed the sabre immediately, the stain never 
 left it 4 . We were amused by the eager quickness with which 
 our Abyssinian recognised and named the Kantuffa ; telling 
 us all that Bruce relates of its thorny nature, as if he had his 
 work by heart. The Balessan, or Balsam-tree, was entirely 
 unknown to him. He had seen the Papyrus in Emluird, 
 in the province of Lebo, growing in marshy lands. Con- 
 cerning the other plants engraved in Bruce's work, his 
 observations agreed with those of Bruce, with very little 
 exception. He denied that the mode of eating raw meat 
 was by wrapping it up in cakes made of Tiff. These cakes, 
 he said, were used for plates, or as bread only for women 
 and sick persons. The Abyssinians do not make beer from 
 Teff, according to his account, but from a plant called 
 
 Sell eh. 
 
 (3) Therefore not the Euphorbia ojjicinarum of Linnaeus. See bruce's Tray. 
 Append, p. 44. 
 
 (4) Ibid. p. 43. 
 

 ^^■■■l 
 
 64 GRAND CAIRO. 
 
 Selleh. Bruce mentions different sorts of Teff\ of which, 
 perhaps, Selleh may be one. The Abyssinian concurred with 
 Bruce, in attributing the frequency of worm-disorders, in his 
 country, to the practice of eating raw flesh. 2 . This is con- 
 sidered always as a luxury, and therefore the priests abstain 
 from it. In his own village, he said, the soldiers and 
 principal people prefer raw meat to every other diet ; that 
 before he became a priest, he had himself eaten much of it ; 
 that he considered it as very savoury when the animal from 
 which it is taken is fat and healthy. He professed himself to 
 be ignorant of the virtue ascribed by Bruce to the IVooginoos 3 , 
 now called Brucea antidysenterica ; although he knew the 
 plant well, and said it cured all disorders caused by magic : 
 but he verified all that Bruce had related of the Cusso*, or 
 Banksia Abyssinica, and added, that it was customary to drink 
 an infusion made from it every two months, as a preventative 
 against the disorder noticed by Bruce. When shewn the 
 Walhaffa, he mentioned a curious circumstance, which Bruce 
 has not related ; namely, that the bark of this plant serves 
 the Abyssinians as a substitute for soap. He knew nothing of 
 the word Carat, as a name said by Bruce to be given, in the 
 south of Abyssinia, to the bean of the Kuara-tree, and used 
 in weighing gold. 
 
 Having thus discussed the plants, we directed his atten- 
 tion to the quadrupeds, birds, and other articles of natural 
 
 history. 
 
 (1) See Bruce's Trav. vol. III. p. 280. Edinl. 1790. 
 
 (2) Bruce entertained the same opinion. See Travels, Append, p. 80. Edinh. 1/90. 
 
 (3) Ibid. p. 69. (4) Ibid. p. 73. 
 
 IMH^ 
 
GRAND CAIRO. 
 
 history. His answers gave us as much reason to be con- 
 vinced of Bruce' s accuracy in this, as in the former part of 
 his work. It would take up too much of the reader's attention 
 to detail all the evidence we collected for this purpose. 
 He added, that the rhinoceros was called Chartiet by the 
 Abyssinians, and said that its horn, used for lining the interior 
 of drinking-vessels, is considered as an antidote to poison. 
 When the engraving representing the Aslikoko was placed 
 before him, he recognised the animal, and related the cir- 
 cumstance mentioned by Bruce' of its being considered 
 unclean, both by Christians and by Mahometans. Speaking 
 of its name, he made a curious distinction ; saying that it 
 is called Aslikoko in the Court language, but Gehre in the 
 vulgar tongue. 
 
 If there be a part of Bruce' s work apparently fabulous, 
 from its marvellous nature, it is the account he has 
 given of that destructive fly, the Zimb, or Tsaltsalya" ; 
 yet, in the history of this insect, as in every other instance, 
 the testimony of the Abyssinian Dean strictly confirmed all 
 that Bruce had written upon the subject. He told us, that 
 horses and cows were its principal victims ; that there were 
 not many of those insects in his native province ; but that he 
 had heard of armies being destroyed in consequence of this 
 terrible scourge. We questioned him concerning the plant 
 which is said to render persons invulnerable to serpents or 
 scorpions, merely by chewing its leaves. He replied, that he 
 knew the plant well, but had forgotten its name ; that it 
 
 resembled 
 
 (5) See Bruce s Travels, Appendix:, p. 145. 
 
 (6) Ibid. p. 188. See also vol. I. p. 388. 
 VOL. III. K 
 
 65 
 
 CHAP. II. 
 

 i£?*^i!f'i»li*-zj-r*-: 
 
 66 
 
 GRAND CAIRO. 
 
 chap, ii. resembled hemp, and that he had often made use of it to 
 prove its virtues ; but he added, that it must be chewed at 
 the time of touching the serpent or the scorpion. 
 
 Previous to the introduction of any inquiry concerning 
 the source of the Nile, we shewed to him Bruce's map 
 of the Lake Tzana, and of the surrounding country. At 
 this he was highly gratified. He knew all the places 
 mentioned in the territories of Bdessen, Begemder, Gqjam, 
 and AgowSy and, attempting to shew to us the situation of 
 Gondar, actually pointed out the spot marked by Bruce for 
 the locality of that city. 
 
 The Nile (which before its junction with the Lake Tzana 
 he called Aleaoui) he described as having but one source 1 , in 
 a marshy spot, upon the top of a mountain, about five or six 
 miles from the lake, and upon its south-eastern side. He 
 had not been there himself, but had often visited that side 
 of the lake. There are many villages in the neighbourhood 
 of the place. The inhabitants are all Christians; but they 
 
 entertain 
 
 (l) Bruce's account of the origin of this river will perhaps be found, after all, more 
 correct than any we can obtain, even from the Abyssinians themselves, who do not 
 reside near enough to the spot to have made personal observation. Mr. Salt mentions 
 the little reliance he could place in the various accounts given to him upon this subject. 
 " When I found," says he, " that I must give up all hopes of penetrating beyond the 
 Tacazza, I took every occasion to make inquiries, of such persons as were likely to give 
 me any intelligence respecting the Nile. Their accounts generally agreed with each 
 other ; but it appeared to me that they spoke from what they had heard, and not from 
 personal knowledge. Its situation near the village of Geesh ; the marshiness of the 
 plain ; the elevation of the spot whence it flows above the surrounding country ; its circuit 
 from Gojam ; were points familiar to them all: but they differed considerably as to the 
 number of the fountains from which it springs; some speaking of three, others of four, 
 and one person of Jive" Lord Valentia's Trav. vol. III. p. 100. 
 
GRAND CAIRO. 
 
 67 
 
 entertain no veneration for the spot, neither are any honours ^ chap. 11. 
 whatsoever paid to the source of the river. There are, 
 indeed, many springs which are medicinal, and said to be 
 the gift of certain saints, but he had never heard that the 
 fountain of the Nile was one of these. 
 
 Here we terminated our investigation, as far as it related 
 to Bruce's account of Abyssinia; and the result of it left a 
 conviction upon our minds, not only of the general fidelity 
 of that author, but that no other book of travels, published 
 so long after the events took place which he has related, 
 and exposed to a similar trial, would have met with equal 
 testimony of its truth and accuracy. 
 
 (2) In the interesting memoir of Mr. Salt's Journey in Abyssinia, as published by 
 Lord Valentia, its author has assailed the veracity of Bruce, in a manner which may be 
 lamented by those who hold Mr. Salt's Narrative in the highest estimation : and for 
 this reason ; that, with an evident disposition to dispute the correctness of Bruce's re- 
 presentation, no writer has contributed more effectually to the establishment of Bruce's 
 credit. Mr. Salt speaks in the most positive terms of the accuracy with which Bruce has 
 detailed his historical infoimation. (See Lord Valentia's Travels, vol. III. pp. 103. 209. 
 &c. &c. Lond. I8O9.) He also mentions the astonishment of the natives 'at his own 
 knowledge of their history : (Ibid. p. 227.) and, above all, that he was considered by 
 
 them as a superior being, when he exhibited Bruce's drawings of Gondar. (Ibid.) In 
 
 1 
 many other instances he bears ample testimony to Bruce's accuracy. (See vol. II. 
 
 p. 460. 480. &c. ; vol. III. pp. 163.211. 217. See also the instances adduted in the 
 
 Edinb. Encyclop. vol. V. Part I. pp. 9, 10.) When to all this is added the evidence 
 
 afforded by the celebrated Browne (See Preface to his Travels), in support of the few 
 
 facts which are questioned by Mr. Salt, and the opinion given of his work by the 
 
 Commander-in-chief of the British army sent from India by the Red Sea, as before 
 
 alluded to, we may surely consider the writings o( this illustrious traxeller to be placed 
 
 beyond the reach of cavil : and we ought to agree with that profound scholar, (See 
 
 Vincent's Periplus of the Erythr. Sea, p 93 ) who, maintaining that Bruce's work 
 
 "bears throughout internal marks of veracity," considered it to be a duty " not to 
 
 TREAT W r ITH INGRATITUDE THOSE WHO EXfLORE THE DESERT FOR OUR INFORMATION." 
 
 CHAP. 
 

 .»yiwrt<» 
 
 Hi 
 
 
 
 
 CHAP. III. 
 
 CHAP. HI. 
 
 Arabic Lan- 
 guage, as 
 spoken in 
 ■Egypt. 
 
 GRAND CAIRO. 
 
 .Arabic Language, as spoken in Egypt — Dress of the Women in Cairo — 
 State of Society — Houses — Gardens — Ceremony of Ululation in 
 honour of the Dead— Exaggerated descriptions of the Country — 
 Supposed Sacrifice of a Virgin to the Nile — Book Market — Antient 
 Medals in circulation — Custom of the Arabs in passing a Bridge — 
 Appearance of Women in the Streets — Enormities practised by the 
 Turks — Extortions — Discovery of a curious Manuscript — Citadel — 
 Pointed Arches — Interesting Inscription — Mosaic Painting — Present 
 State of the Art — Joseph's Well — Origin of the Citadel — View 
 from the Ramparts. 
 
 Any Englishman hearing a party of Egyptian Arabs in 
 conversation, and being ignorant of their language, would 
 suppose they were quarrelling. The Arabic, as spoken by 
 Arabs, is more guttural even than the Welsh ; but the 
 
 dialect 
 
GRAND CAIRO. 6*9 
 
 dialect of Egypt appeared to us to be particularly harsh, chap. in. 
 It is always spoken with a vehemence of gesticulation, and 
 loudness of tone, which is quite a contrast to the stately 
 sedate manner of speaking among the Turks : we were con- 
 stantly impressed with a notion that the Arabs, in conver- 
 sation, were quarrelling. More than once we ordered the 
 interpreter to interfere, and to pacify them, when it ap- 
 peared that we were mistaken, and that nothing was further 
 from their feelings, at the time, than anger. The effect is 
 not so unpleasing to the ear when Arab women converse ; 
 although the gesticulation is nearly the same. Signor 
 Rosetti 1 , whose hospitality to strangers has been cele- 
 brated by every traveller in Egypt during nearly half 
 a century, introduced us to a Venetian family, of the name 
 of Pint -, in which there were many beautiful young women, 
 and with whom we had frequent opportunity of hearing the 
 Arabic as spoken by the most polished females of the city. 
 The dress of those young ladies was much more elegant than Dress of the 
 any female costume we had before observed in the East, and Cairo. 
 it was entirely borrowed from the Antients. A zone placed 
 immediately below the bosom served to confine a loose robe, 
 open in front, so as to display a pair of rich pantaloons. The 
 
 feet 
 
 (1) Mr. Bruce mentions him (Trav. vol.1, p. 30. Edin. 1790.) under the name of 
 " Carlo Rosetti, a Venetian merchant, a young man of capacity and intrigue." Bruce 
 was in Cairo in the beginning of July 1768. Signor Rosetti told us he well remem- 
 bered Bruce, and entertained no doubt as to the truth of the narrative which he 
 published concerning his travels. 
 
 (2) "There is also at Cairo a Venetian Consul, and a house of that nation called 
 Pini, all excellent people." Bruce's Trav. vol. I. p. 2(5. 
 
<$<3&< 
 
 :'i.v-.': ?*■'*■: 
 
 %>-±j.'i<4Jk?4 <*i->*3X; £'?ivf>.' £/■'>■•*.«* 
 
 
 m 
 
 70 
 
 CHAP. HI. 
 
 State of 
 Society. 
 
 GRAND CAIRO. 
 
 feet were covered with embroidered slippers, but the ankle 
 and instep were naked; and round the lower part of the leg, 
 above the ankle, they wore large cinctures of massive gold ; 
 like that which was discovered in a tomb upon the Cimme- 
 rian Bosporus, and represented in a former part of this work l . 
 
 Denon speaks of the pleasurable sensations daily excited 
 by the delicious temperature of Cairo, causing Europeans, who 
 arrive with the intention of spending a few months in the 
 city, to remain during the rest of their lives, without ever 
 persuading themselves to leave it. Few of those, how- 
 ever, with whom we associated, were disposed to acquiesce 
 in the opinion of this very amiable writer. Persons studious 
 of uninterrupted repose, or capable of tolerating the endless 
 monotony which society exhibits in every family where 
 strangers are received, may perhaps endure, without mur- 
 muring, a temporary residence in the midst of disease and 
 dirt and torpid inactivity. 
 
 The effect, whether it be of climate, of education, or of go- 
 vernment, is the same among all settlers in Egypt, except the 
 Arabs ; a disposition to exist without exertion of any kind ; to 
 pass whole days upon beds and cushions, smoking, and count- 
 ing beads. This is what Maillet termed Le vrai gthiie Egyp- 
 tierme*; and that it maybe acquired by residing among the 
 native inhabitants of Cairo, is evident from the appearance ex- 
 hibited by Europeans who have passed some years in the city. 
 
 When 
 
 (1) See Part I. chap. xvii. p. 398. Second Edition. 
 
 (2) Description de l'Egypte, torn. II. p. 220. a la Haye, 1?40. 
 
GRAND CAIRO. 
 
 71 
 
 When we first arrived, we had no other place of lodging .chap.hi. 
 than what our djerm afforded. This was stationed, during the 
 day, at Bulac, and guarded by our faithful Arabs. Every night 
 these men moved it over to the Isle of Rhouda, and anchored 
 close to the camp of the Indian army, in order to avoid the 
 mice, flies, vermin, and dust, which infested us from the quay, 
 and prevented our rest. But, after a short time, we procured 
 a large house, which had been inhabited by French officers, 
 in a very populous part of the city, near the residence of 
 Signor Rosetti. This greatly added to our facility of seeing 
 the city, and observing the manners of its inhabitants. 
 
 Their best houses answer to the description given in a Houses. 
 former part of this work, of the palace of an Armenian 
 merchant, at Nicotia in Cyprus 3 . The taste shewn in 
 decorating their apartments is of the kind called Arabesque : 
 this, although early introduced into England from the 
 Cast, is not Saracenical, but Egyptian*. It is a style which 
 the Greeks themselves adopted, and it was received 
 amongst the Romans in the time of Augustus. Where the 
 windows are glazed, which generally consist of open lattice- 
 work, they are ornamented with stained glass, repre- 
 senting landscapes and animals, particularly the lion, which 
 seemed to be a favourite subject in works of this sort. No 
 one has paid any attention to the origin of the painted glass 
 in Cairo. Do the glaziers of that city still preserve an 
 art supposed to be imperfectly known in Europe ? From the 
 
 open 
 
 (3) See Part II. Sect. 1. Chap. xi. of these Travels. 
 
 (4) See the observations of Denon, Trav. in Egypt, vol. I. p. 211. Loncl. 1803, 
 
72 
 
 GRAND CAIRO. 
 
 CHAP. III. 
 
 Gardens. 
 
 Ceremony of 
 Ululation in 
 honour of the 
 Dead. 
 
 open terraces which are found in many of the principal 
 houses, and from the flat roofs common to all of them, 
 a view is presented over the numerous gardens of the city. 
 But every thing is disfigured, and rendered uncomfortable, by 
 dust ; all the foliage of the trees is covered with it ; and 
 the boasted vegetation of Cairo, (instead of displaying that 
 pleasing verdure which Europeans, and particularly English- 
 men, picture to their imagination, in reading descriptions 
 of a city filled with groves and gardens,) rather exhibits the 
 dull and uniform colour of the desert. 
 
 Upon the first evening after our removal to our new 
 habitation, we were serenaded by a species of vocal 
 melody, which we had never heard before. It began 
 about sun-set, and continued, with little intermission, 
 not only all the night, but during many succeeding nights 
 and days. We were at first doubtful whether the sounds 
 we heard were expressions of joy or of lamentation. A sort 
 of chorus mixed with screams, yet regulated by the beating 
 of tambourines, now swelling upon the ear, now expiring 
 in cadences, was repeated continually; and as often as it 
 seemed to cease, we heard it renewed with increased vehe- 
 mence. Having inquired the cause, we were told that it 
 was nothing more than the usual ceremony of bewailing 
 a deceased person, by means of female mourners hired for 
 the occasion. This very curious relique of the Ululation of 
 the Antients, it may be supposed, was not suffered to pass 
 without further notice. We sent our interpreter to the 
 house whence the sounds proceeded, desiring him to pay 
 particular attention to the words" used by the choristers in 
 
 their 
 
GRAND CAIRO. 
 
 their lamentation. He told us, upon his return, that we 
 mi"-ht, if we thought proper, have the same ceremony per- 
 formed in our apartments : that the singers were women, 
 hired to sing and lament in this manner; the wealthier the 
 family, the more numerous were the persons hired, and, of 
 course, the louder the lamentations : that those female 
 singers exhibited the most frightful distortions, having 
 their hair dishevelled, their clothes torn, and their counte- 
 nances daubed with paint and dirt ; that they were relieved 
 at intervals by other women similarly employed ; and thus 
 the ceremony may be continued for any length of time. 
 A principal part of their art consists in mingling with 
 their Ululation such plaintive expressions of praise and pity, 
 such affecting narrative of the employments, possessions, 
 and characteristics of the deceased, and such inquiry as to his 
 reasons for leaving those whom he professed to love during 
 life, as may excite the tears and sighs of the relations and 
 friends collected about the corpse. From all this, and the 
 information we afterwards obtained, it is evident that this 
 practice, together with the caoinan of the Irish ', and the 
 funeral cry of other nations 2 , are remains of ceremonies 
 
 practised 
 
 73 
 
 CHAP. III. 
 
 (1) See an account of the Ceremony of Ululation among the Irish, as taken from 
 the Transactions of the Royal Irish Academy, in Dr. Adam Clarke 's Edition of 
 " Harmers Observations," vol. III. p. 40. Loud. 1808. Among other expressions used 
 by the Irish mourners, they continually repeat the words " Ullaloo ! Ullaloo ! 
 why didst thou die?" "The Ullaloo of the Irish," says the learned Editor of H.irmer's 
 work, " is the same, both in sense and sound, with the jj J oolooleh of the Arabians, 
 the ululo of the Romans, the 6\o\vfa of the Greeks; and the bV yalal of the Hebrews." 
 
 (2) The custom seems to have been universal ; for it has been observed 
 among the descendants of the three great families ; the Arab, the Tartar, and the 
 
 VOL. III. L Goth - 
 
. 
 
 
 GRAND CAIRO. 
 
 practised in honour of the dead in almost every country of 
 the earth; they are the same that Homer describes at the 
 death of Hector 1 ; and they are frequently alluded to in 
 sacred record 2 : — "Call for the mourning women, that 
 
 THEY MAY COME ; AND SEND FOR CUNNING WOMEN, THAT 
 THEY MAY COME : And LET THEM MAKE HASTE, AND TAKE 
 UP A WAILING FOR US, THAT OUR EYES MAY RUN DOWN WITH 
 TEARS, AND OUR EYELIDS GUSH OUT WITH WATERS." 
 
 Exaggerated As one writer of travels has copied another, the same 
 
 Descriptions ' 
 
 oftheCountry. absurd descriptions are continually given of the luxuries of 
 Egypt, during the inundation of the Nile. That its gardens, 
 from the novelty of the plants found in them, are sometimes 
 pleasing to the eye of a European, may be admitted ; and it 
 has been before acknowledged, that the plantations adorning 
 the sides of the canal may for a short time render a stranger 
 
 unmindful 
 
 Goth. The Arab, as here related. The Tartar, as in Russia. (See Olearius, lib. iii. 
 p. 143. Land. 1662.) The Goth, Getce, or Greeks, as we learn from Homer. It is 
 found even among the Greenlanders. " The women continue their weeping and la- 
 mentation. Their how I is all in one tone ; as if an instrument were to play a tremulous 
 fifth downwards, through all the semitones. Now and then they pause a little." See 
 Crantz's History of Greenland, vol. I. p.23Q. Lond. 1767' See also Part I. of these 
 Travels, p. 192, Second Edit, for an account of the same custom in Russia. 
 
 (1) Tlapd o' eTaav aotcWc, 
 
 Qpijvuv t^dp\ovq, dire OTOvotcroav doifojv 
 
 Ot ficv dp tdptjveov, tTrl Be tjrtvdyovro yvvcuKt<;. 
 
 " Juxtaque collocarunt cantores 
 
 Luctus principes : hi flebile carmen, 
 
 Hi quidem lamentabantur : insuperque gemebant mulieres." 
 
 Homer i Iliados, lib. xxiv. p. 425. Ed. Spond. Basil. 1606. 
 
 (2) Jer. ix. 17, 18. See also 2Chron. xxxv. 25. Judges xi. 3Q, 40. Amos v. 16. 
 also Mark v. 38. &c. &c. 
 
GRAND CAIRO. 
 
 75 
 
 unmindful of the filth and wretchedness of the city. As for t chap, hi. 
 the boasted lakes, or rather mud-pools, into which the 
 waters of the river are then received, particularly the 
 famous Esbequir Birket 3 , these would certainly be consi- 
 dered nuisances in any part of the civilized world. The 
 canal had been cut about three days when we arrived ; and 
 every one was still telling of the rejoicings and ceremonies 
 which that event had occasioned. These have been all 
 described, until it were tedious to renew the subject. 
 Some of our officers saw the pillar, or statue, of mud, supposed 
 
 Sacrifice of a 
 
 which is raised every year between the dyke of the canal ^| in t0 the 
 and the Nile, called Jnes, or The Bride \ and after- 
 wards carried away by the current, when the water from 
 the river is suffered to fall into the canal. This curious 
 custom is said to have given rise to the fabulous story of an 
 annual sacrifice -of a virgin to the Nile 5 . Niebuhr says, 
 
 however, 
 
 (3) It is quite amusing to read some of the accounts published of this place, and 
 to contrast them with the real appearance. " Rien nest plus agreable que de voir un 
 terrein, qui pendant huit nwis de I'annee est un prodigieux bassin rempli d'eau, devenu 
 pendant les quatre autres un jardin riant et perpe'luel." Descript. de l'Egypte par 
 Maillet, torn. I. p. 263. a la Haye, IJAO. The same author speaks of the houses 
 ornamenting the sides of this lake ; whereas Denon observes, " the less the houses were 
 visible, the more they would please." Trav. in Egypt, vol. I. ?• 105. Lond. 1803. In 
 fact, nothing can be more wretched than either the one or the other ; the filthy pool 
 called a lake; or the hovels, described by many authors as stately and elegant buildings. 
 
 (4) See Niebuhr's Travels, vol. I. p. 69. Edin. \7gi. 
 
 (5) Ibid. See also De Tott, vol.11, p. 243. Lond. 1785. De Tott says, the 
 antient Egyptians called the sacrifice Arroussee, The new Bride. This name, he observes, 
 is still preserved in the more humanized ceremony. Moreri (Diet. Hist. torn. VII. 
 p. 1041. Paris, 1759,) thus speaks of the sacrifice, as having really existed: " Les 
 Egyptiens idoldtres s'imuginoicnt que leur dieu Serapis etoit I'auteur de ce debordement 
 merveilleux du Nil : ainsi lorsqu'il retardoit, Us lui sacrifioient une Jille, &c. Cette 
 
 barlare 
 
BIBdm^b^hK^HC 
 
 WBW 
 
 . <.>';■*#/* *ift#.&*tfr£2*4t*tl*-ljP 
 
 ki:*t$*W{*i&<. 
 
 
 76 
 
 CHAP. III. 
 
 GRAND CAIRO. 
 
 however, that the pillar of earth serves as a sort of Nilo- 
 meter, for the use of the common people'; and this is 
 probably the only use for which it was ever intended. We 
 entered the canal, in our djerm, about noon, on the fifteenth 
 of August ; and after making the tour of nearly the whole 
 city, by means of the canal, and a series of dykes filled with 
 the muddy water of the river, we at last entered the Es- 
 bequir Lake, or Birket il Ezbequie, at six o'clock p. m. 
 Having crossed this piece of water, we landed, and went to 
 the house we had taken ; observing everywhere the same 
 uniform appearance of dirt and degradation. The inha- 
 bitants, rejoicing in the expulsion of the French, and enjoying 
 the festivity of the season, were carousing by the sides of the 
 numerous channels then filled with the foul and stagnant 
 water of the Nile. Some degree of danger too might be 
 annrehended from the turbulent mirth of Turkish sol- 
 diers, who were firing ofF their carabines in all directions ; 
 
 or 
 
 barlare devotion fut abolie, disent les historiens Arales, par le Calife Omar." Neither 
 Moreri, however, nor any other author by whom this circumstance is related, mentions 
 his authority for the fact. Mentelle (Geogr. Anc. torn. II. p. 441. Paris, 1/8Q) 
 alludes to the same custom. The whole story seems to be founded upon a passage in 
 the writings of Murtadi, an Arabian, who gave a legendary account of the " Won- 
 ders of E"ypt," which is nevertheless mentioned in terms of commendation by Gibbon, 
 (Chap.li. Note 128. Hist. &c.) This work was composed in the 13th century, and 
 was afterwards translated by Vatier at Paris, 1666. — Murtadi affirms that the annual 
 sacrifice of a virgin was abolished by the Caliph Omar. But human sacrifices were never 
 tolerated by the antient Egyptians. Herodotus reproaches the Greeks with having enter- 
 tained a contrary opinion {Euterpe, c. 45. p. \06. ed. Gronov. L. Bat. 1/15) ; and it is less 
 probable that such sacrifices were suffered to take place at the time of Omar's conquest., 
 when the Christians were in possession of Egypt. 
 (1) Niebuhr, vol. I. p. 69. 
 
GRAND CAIRO. 
 
 77 
 
 or else the sight of so many cheerful groupes afforded of 
 itself a much more pleasing spectacle, than either the 
 buildings of the city or its boasted canal. But how Euro- 
 peans, in speaking of Cairo, can call any thing magnificent 
 which is surpassed even by the poorest parts of Venice, is 
 truly surprising. To read some of the descriptions which 
 have been given of this city 2 , one would fancy them derived 
 from the inflated accounts of Arabian writers, who, having 
 never seen any thing finer than Cairo, speak of it as the 
 "Wonder of the world" the "Delight of the imagination" 
 " the Great among the great," the Holy City 3 . In fact, it may 
 be said of Cairo, as of Egypt in general, that it has always 
 been the subject of exaggeration, from the earliest periods 
 of its history 4 . 
 
 We often visited the book-market, and found no sight 
 more interesting than the prodigious number of beautiful 
 manuscripts offered there for sale. A Catalogue, pub- 
 lished in the Appendix to the First Section of this Part 
 of our Travels, will serve to render the great variety of 
 works in Oriental literature, which are upon daily sale in 
 the cities of the East, more known than it has hitherto 
 been 5 . We purchased many of these manuscripts. Writings 
 
 of 
 
 CHAP. III. 
 
 Book Market. 
 
 (2) " Cette grande et illustre ville," says Vansleb, (p. 117. Nouvelle Re- 
 lation dun Voyage en Egypte, Paris, 1077.) " Elle est situe'e dans une plaine la 
 
 PLUS DELICIEUSE DU MONDE." {Ibid. p. 120.) 
 
 (3) See Denon's Trav. vol.1, p. 103. Lond. 1803. 
 
 (4) " I never saw a place I liked worse, nor which afforded less pleasure or in- 
 struction, than Cairo, nor antiquities which less answered their descriptions." Brace's 
 Travels, vol. I. p. 33. Edinb. 179O. 
 
 (5) See Part the Second, Section the First. Appendix, No. II. 
 

 
 78 
 
 CHAP. III. 
 
 GRAND CAIRO. 
 
 of any celebrity bear very high prices, especially famous 
 works in History, Astronomy, Geography, and Natural 
 History. The Mamalukes are more fond of reading than 
 the Turks ; and some of their libraries, in Cairo, contained 
 volumes of immense price. The French had been guilty 
 of so much plunder, that the booksellers, as well as other 
 tradesmen, had for some time concealed their most valu- 
 able property. The best manuscripts were, therefore, 
 only beginning to be exposed for sale. During our 
 inquiry after a complete copy of the " Arabian Nights ," 
 a bookseller said he knew where to find a copy of this 
 work; but that its owner had carefully concealed it, 
 through fear of the French. The title of this compila- 
 tion, in Arabic, " Alif Lila va Lilin," is vulgarly pro- 
 nounced, by the dealers in Cairo, Alf Leela o Lila. To 
 our very great joy, this manuscript, or rather collection of 
 manuscripts, was brought to us, in four quarto cases, con- 
 taining One hundred and seventy- two Tales, 'separated into 
 One thousand and one portions, for recital during the same 
 number of Nights. Each case contained about fifty numbers, 
 sewed up like so many loose manuscript sermons. The 
 whole was fairly written ; and the price set upon it amounted 
 only to the moderate sum of one hundred piastres, (about 
 seven pounds English,) according to the state of exchange 
 at that time. We bought it ; and its lamentable fate has 
 been before related 1 . This is to be the more regretted, 
 
 because 
 
 (l) See Note (l), p. 51 of the former volume. 
 
GRAND CAIRO. 
 
 79 
 
 because many of the tales 8 related to Syrian and Egyptian 
 customs and traditions, and have not been found in any 
 other copy of the same work. 
 
 A few cursory observations may now be introduced, 
 as they were made, and as the author finds them occurring 
 in his journal. Who could have believed that antient 
 Roman coins were still in circulation in any part of the 
 world ? yet this is strictly true. We noticed Roman 
 copper medals in Cairo, as given in exchange in the markets 
 among the coins of the country, and valued at something 
 less than our halfpenny. What is more remarkable, we 
 obtained some of the large bronze medals of the Ptolemies, 
 circulating at higher value, but in the same manner. The 
 manufacture of silk and cotton handkerchiefs had been 
 taught to the inhabitants by the French. Such handker- 
 chiefs were then selling for seven shillings English each ; 
 and it was in buying these that we first noticed the cir- 
 culation of the antient among the modern money of 
 Egypt. The Arabs, wlio generally sing during labour, 
 use the antient Hebrew invocation of the Deity while they 
 are passing, in their boats, beneath a bridge ; calling out 
 Elohe ! Elohe ! in a plaintive singing tone of voice 3 . The 
 females of Cairo are often seen, in the public streets, riding 
 upon asses and upon mules : they sit in the masculine 
 attitude, like the women of Naples and other parts of Italy. 
 
 Their 
 
 CHAP. HI. 
 
 Antient Me- 
 dals in circu- 
 lation. 
 
 Custom of th« 
 Arabs in pass- 
 ing a Bridge. 
 
 Appearance of 
 Women in 
 the Streets, 
 
 (2) See the List given in No. III. of the Appendix to the preceding section of Part 
 the Second of these Travels. 
 
 (3) See Genesis xxxiii. 20. also Mark xv. 34. 
 

 
 80 
 
 CHAP. III. 
 
 Enormities 
 practised by 
 the Turks. 
 
 GRAND CAIRO. 
 
 Their dress consists of a hood, and cloak, extending to the 
 feet, with a stripe of white calico in front, concealing the 
 face and breast, but having two small holes for the ej es. 
 In this disguise, if any man should meet his own wife, or 
 his sister, he would not be able to recognise her, unless she 
 were to speak to him ; and this is seldom done, because the 
 suspicious Moslems, observing such an intercourse, might 
 suppose an intrigue to be going on ; in which case they 
 would put one, if not both of them, to death. The Turks 
 had committed great enormities in Cairo, from the first 
 moment of their arrival after the capture of the city. 
 Wherever they found an unfortunate female, of whatsoever 
 rank, who had admitted the embraces of a Frenchman, or 
 of any other Christian, they put her to death, without the 
 smallest compunction. We assisted three ladies in their 
 escape ; and had the good fortune to provide them with the 
 means of concealment, until they reached the house of a 
 relation in Alexandria. A young man who* lived in the 
 same house with us, in a set of apartments under our's, was 
 wounded by a musquet-ball on the day of our arrival. He 
 had been looking from the terrace at seme Turks below, 
 when one of them fired off his piece, and shot him. The 
 only excuse made was, that they mistook him for a French- 
 man. In like manner they strangled a Christian in one of 
 the public baths ; offering the same apology for the act they 
 had committed. Notwithstanding the circumstance of the 
 city's being at that time garrisoned by our troops, it was 
 not safe to venture alone in public. We were riding one 
 day with a priest of the Propaganda monastery, mounted 
 
 upon 
 
GRAND CAIRO. 
 
 81 
 
 upon asses ; when suddenly a party of Bostanghies, belonging 
 to a Turk of distinction, running before his horse, ordered us 
 to descend until the grandee had passed. This we positively 
 refused to do ; upon which, not daring to meddle with us, 
 they vented all their rage upon the poor priest, whom they 
 dragged from his ass, and chastised with their white wands 
 in our presence. Complaint was accordingly made to 
 the officers of the garrison, and to the Vizier ; and a 
 promise obtained from the Turks of better behaviour in 
 future; upon which, however, little reliance could be placed. 
 The English had a very small force, at that time, in Cairo ; 
 and it was deemed prudent not to exasperate a fanatical 
 mob, by any violation of their pride or their prejudices, 
 when it could be avoided. The events that took place 
 afterwards, in Egypt, fully justified this precaution. Never- 
 theless, orders had been issued, that no Englishman should 
 be compelled to descend and humble himself before a 
 Moslem, which caused us to offer the resistance we had 
 made. 
 
 Soon after this adventure, descending from our house to 
 a part of the canal where our djerm was stationed, With a 
 view to make an excursion upon the water, we found it 
 completely filled by a party of dastardly Turks ; who had 
 expelled the worthy Reis, to whom the boat belonged, 
 together with his crew, and had taken full possession of it, 
 for their own use. These grave personages were seated, 
 quite at their ease, with their pipes lighted; and were 
 moving off in great state, as we arrived. There was not 
 much time to be lost in idle parley; so we all leaped, from 
 
 vol. in. m the 
 
 CHAP. III. 
 

 ■1 
 
 82 
 
 CHAP. III. 
 
 Extortious. 
 
 . GRAND CAIRO. 
 
 the side of the canal, into the midst of the self-constituted 
 divan, whose members instantly surrendered, with great 
 seeming humility, and, being landed, scampered 01T with 
 more speed and less composure than usually characte- 
 rizes the Turkish deportment. The matter, however, did 
 not end here. Watching the opportunity when our good 
 Reis was again left to the guardianship of his djerm, they 
 bound him hand and foot, and carried him to a house in the 
 neighbourhood, where they bastinadoed him most unmerci- 
 fully, by way of wreaking their vengeance upon us, for 
 the indignity they had experienced ; nor could we ever 
 bring the offenders to justice, or obtain, for the person they 
 had thus injured, the slightest redress. Such was the state of 
 affairs in Grand Cairo, at the time the English were in pos- 
 session of the city. It may be easily imagined, therefore, what 
 the situation of its Christian inhabitants must be, when all 
 things are left to the discretion of its Mahometan masters. 
 The extortions practised upon the inhabitants exceed all 
 credibility. The French, at one time, levied a contribution 
 of ten millions of piastres ; and of this sum a single mer- 
 chant paid fifty thousand dollars. The same person, upon 
 the subsequent arrival of the Grand Vizier with his armv, 
 was compelled to pay the enormous sum of three hundred 
 and sixty thousand dollars. Neither Buonaparte nor Kleber 
 distressed the people of Cairo, by their extortions, so much 
 as did Menou, who, in the latter part of his tyrannical 
 government, omitted no measures whereby he might 
 plunder the inhabitants of their property. Nothing was 
 too mean for his avarice; nothing large enough for his 
 
 rapacity. 
 
GRAND CAIRO. 
 
 83 
 
 rapacity. In addition to all the privations and horrors the chap. in. 
 citizens had endured, the plague spread its ravages to every 
 corner of the city, and thirty-two thousand persons, in one 
 year, became its victims. A disorder, not less fatal than the 
 plague, (the dysentery,) begins to prevail when the plague 
 retires ; but this principally attacks strangers. Colonel 
 Stewart's regiment, quartered at Djiza, near the Pyramids, 
 was reduced, by this complaint, in one month, from three 
 hundred men to seventy. The Colonel was lodged in the 
 palace of Murad Bey. Of this edifice it is difficult to give 
 an idea by description : it contained barracks capable of 
 quartering sixty thousand men, including a very great pro- 
 portion of cavalry; together with a cannon-foundry, and 
 every thing necessary for the immense system of warfare 
 carried on by that prince, who rivalled in wealth and power 
 the antient sovereigns of Egypt. 
 
 Upon the nineteenth of August, our friend Mr. Discovery of a 
 Hammer breakfasted with us, and brought with him script. 
 a valuable Arabic manuscript, presented to him by 
 the Consul Rosetti, of very diminutive size, but most 
 exquisitely written. The translation of it, by Mr. 
 Hammer, has since been published in England ; and 
 this work, although hitherto little regarded by the 
 public, merits particular notice. It professes to explain 
 the hieroglyphics, and many antient alphabets ; giving, 
 moreover, an account of the Egyptian priests, their 
 classes, initiation, and sacrifices 1 . It illustrates the origin 
 
 of 
 
 (l) For this publication the world is indebted to the munificent patronage of Earl 
 Spenser and of Sir Joseph Banks, at whose expense, principally, the undertaking took 
 
 place 3 
 
-i..VJi : /; ; * £'•*>". '^-i , 4fA.f.'*i*«i&* *i'*^'* '^f-.X-V' 
 
 84 
 
 CHAP. III. 
 
 Citadel. 
 
 Pointed 
 Arches. 
 
 GRAND CAIRO. 
 
 of placing embalmed birds in tbe catacombs of Saccara ; 
 a circumstance that will be again alluded to, in describing 
 those subterraneous repositories. 
 
 We then set out for the Citadel. After the numerous 
 accounts published of this place, it were useless to write 
 a particular description of it 2 . The most interesting parts 
 of it to an English traveller, as connected with the history 
 of the architecture of his country, are the splendid remains 
 of buildings erected by the antient Caliphs of Egypt, par- 
 ticularly the edifice vulgarly called " Joseph's Palace," 
 built by Sultan Salah cd din, or Saladine, whose name was 
 Joseph 3 . Here we beheld those pointed arches, which, 
 although constructed soon after the middle of the twelfth 
 century, by a fanatic Moslem 4 , (now ranked among the Ma- 
 hometan Saints, for his rigid adherence to all the prejudices 
 
 ~e 
 
 place ; also to the literary care of Dr. C. Wilkins, Librarian to the East-India Company. 
 (See the account given of it in the Naval. Chronicle, vol. XXII. p. 392.) The title is 
 as follows.- "Antient Alphabets and Hieroglyphic Characters explained; with an 
 Account of the Egyptian Priests, their Classes, Initiation, and Sacrifices, in the Arabic 
 Language, ly Ahmad Bin Abubekr Bin Wahshi ; and in English, by Joseph 
 Hammer, Secretary to the Imperial (Austrian) Legation at Constantinople. London. 
 Nicoll, Pall-Mall, 1806." 
 
 (2) " Aloft, and neere the top of the mouniaine, against the south end of the citie, 
 stands the Castle, (once the stately mansion of the Mamaluck Sultans, and destroyed 
 by Selymus) ascended unto by one way onely, and that hewne out of the rocke, 
 which rising leisurely with easie steps, and spacious distances, (though of a great height) 
 may be on horsebacke without difficultie mounted." Sandys' Travels, p, 122. 
 Lond. 163/. The reader may be referred to Lord Falentia's Travels for the best 
 account of the place ; and, above all, for the accurate and beautiful views of the 
 buildings in it, which his lordship published, after Mr. Salt's designs made, upon the spot. 
 See vol. III." p. 372, &c. Lond. I8O9. See also Niebuhr, vol. I. p. 5Q. Edin. \/Q2. 
 
 (3) Niebuhr, Hid. 
 
 (4) " In a fanatic age, himself a fanatic." Gibbon, vol. XI. p. 119. Lond. ISO/. 
 
GRAND CAIRO. 
 
 of Islam 5 ,) certain English antiquaries would fancifully at- 
 tribute to the labours of English workmen 6 . 
 
 To increase the interest exited by the examination of 
 Sultan Saladine's magnificent palace, Mr. Hammer had the 
 satisfaction to discover, among many Arabic inscriptions 
 yet remaining in the great hall of the building, one in 
 excellent preservation, and in large characters, which he 
 copied, with this legend; 
 
 SALAHEDDIN, DESTROYER OF INFIDELS AND HEATHENS; 
 
 so that the origin of the building and its date, which before 
 rested, in great measure, on tradition, is thereby established. 
 
 Had 
 
 85 
 
 (5) " All profane science was the object of his aversion." Ibid. p. 118. 
 
 (6) See Milner on the Eccles. Architect, of England. Not that, by the removal of 
 this solitary objection to the English origin of the pointed arch, any satisfactory 
 conclusion could be drawn, as to the want of its existence elsewhere in the East. 
 Tliis kind of arch, according to its very best proportions, as defined by the advocates 
 for its English origin, (See Milner, as above, p. 104, Note a ,) and as it become fashion- 
 able in England between the end of the thirteenth and the latter part of the fifteenth 
 century, is a peculiar characteristic of the architecture of the Saracens in Egypt, in all 
 their oldest buildings. (See the designs of Luigi Mayer, as published by Sir R. Ainslie.) 
 It moreover exists in some of the sepulchres in Upper Egypt, and among the ruins of 
 Tartar edifices, in the remote district of Madshary, between the Kuma and Byvalla 
 rivers.' See Pallas s Travels in the South of Russia, vol. 1. Plates xii, and xiii, and 
 Vignette 6. Sec also the remains of the same style of architecture, Fragmens des 
 Voyages, PL xx. p. 430. Berne, 1792. In the " Voyages de Chardin," tome troisieme, 
 are several views of the interior of different Persian palaces, of caravanserais, bridges, 
 &c. Each of these plates affords specimens of the pointed arch. There is a remark- 
 able curve in all these arches. At about two-thirds of the distance from the spring 
 of the arch to its summit, the curvature becomes convex to the interior of the 
 arch. The same remark is applicable to some pointed arches in the elevation and 
 section of a sepulchral monument at Mosslof-Kuut, on the river Podkuma, at the 
 foot of Caucasus, as given in Pallas' s Travels, Plate xiv. This curious circumstance of 
 the convex curvature, between the spring of the arch and its vertex, is not, however, 
 peculiar to the pointed arch in the East : it is found in "buildings erected in the 
 beginning of the fifteenth century in England. An instance occurs in the arched niches, 
 for the reception of images, above the altar of an old church of the Holy Trinity, now 
 the Rectory church, at Harlton in Cambridgeshire. 
 
 CHAP. III. 
 
 Interesting 
 Inscription. 
 

 86 
 
 CHAP. III. 
 
 Mosaic 
 Painting. 
 
 GRAND CAIRO. 
 
 Had it not been for these inscriptions, it might have been 
 considered as of higher antiquity than the age of Saladine ; 
 for, in many respects, it resembles edifices erected in the 
 age of Justinian ; and particularly in the profusion of 
 Mosaic painting, whereby its stately ceilings and walls 
 are ornamented. We collected specimens of this Mosaic. 
 The French, who made use of the building as an hospital, 
 had torn it down, in many places, during their residence 
 here, and scattered it among the rubbish. It corresponded, 
 in a remarkable manner, both by the nature of its 
 composition, and by the style of the workmanship, with 
 the mosaic ornaments of St. Sophia at Constantinople; 
 containing the same gilded and coloured fritta, imbedded 
 in fine mortar, as white as snow. The principal remains 
 of Mosaic painting were in a room opposite to the great hall; 
 and the subjects so represented, exhibited castles,houses, trees, 
 gardens, fruit, flowers, and animals. Among the substances 
 used for this kind of work, we observed pieces of the shell 
 called Mother of "Pearl: this may be considered, perhaps, 
 peculiar to the Mosaic of the age of Saladine ; as it does not 
 appear among the tesselated pavements of the Antients, nor in 
 the Mosaic of St. Sophia. The materials of antient Mosaic 
 generally consisted of small pieces of variously coloured 
 glass ; although, in some parts of St. Sophia, the tesscrce 
 are of marble of different hues. The curious art of painting 
 in Mosaic existed in a very remote period. Several writers 
 maintain that it was derived originally from Persia 1 ; in 
 proof of this, they cite the first chapter of the book of Esther, 
 
 where 
 
 (1) See Winkelmann, Hist.de VArt, torn. II. p. 157. Paris, An 2 de la Republique. 
 
GRAND CAIRO. 
 
 87 
 
 where it is said of the palace of Ahasuerus' that " the **** • I | I I -' y 
 beds were of gold and silver, upon a pavement of red, and 
 blue, and white, and black marble." Pliny however 
 attributes the invention to the Greeks 1 . Works in Mosaic 
 were by the Greeks appropriated to the pavement of 
 their temples and dwellings. Many of the floors in the 
 houses at Pompeii have this kind of covering. It was in 
 a later age that the same sort of ornament was used for 
 lining walls, and for coating the interior of domes and 
 vaulted buildings 4 . In process of time, tables were thus 
 constructed, which, being fixed in marble frames, might be 
 moved without loosening the tesserce. Celebrated pictures 
 in Mosaic, the work of Grecian artists, existed among the 
 Romans 5 . This admirable invention, capable of giving 
 perpetuity to works in painting, has survived the down- 
 fall of letters ; but it has never penetrated beyond the 
 Alps : it still exists in Italy, where it has been carried Present state 
 
 1 J of the Art. 
 
 to a degree of perfection unknown in any former age. 
 The finest works of Raphael, and of other great masters, 
 have been thus copied ; and these copies may defy the attacks 
 to which the originals were liable, while they preserve all 
 their perfections. Miniature painting of the most exquisite 
 
 colouring 
 
 (2) C. I. v. 6. 
 
 (3) " Pavimenta originem apud Graecos habent elaborata arte, picturae ratione, donee 
 lithostrota expulcre earn." Pirn. Hist. Nat. lib. xxxvi. c. 25. L.Bat. 1635. 
 
 (4) " Pulsa deinde ex humo pavimenta; in cameras transiere, e vitro: novitium 
 et hoc inventum." {Ibid.) " Ensuite elle a servi a revetir les voutes des batimens." 
 Winkelmann, Hist, de VArt, ubi supra, p. 158. 
 
 (5) Witness the celebrated work of Sosus of Pergamus, mentioned by Pliny, 
 (lib. xxxvi. c. 25.) of The Dove drinking out of a Vase of Water, found ,in Adrian's 
 
 Villa 
 
^-;*£# 
 
 tiflUMMMl 
 
 88 
 
 CHAP. III. 
 
 Joseph's Well. 
 
 GRAND CAIRO. 
 
 colouring has also been executed in the same manner; 
 the artist using vitrified tesserce of different hues, instead 
 of liquid colours. The gilded tesserce which we procured 
 from the Mosaic of Saladine's palace, resemble, in size and 
 appearance, those of the Mosaics which line the domes of 
 buildings in Rome, Ravenna, Milan, Yenice, and Constan- 
 tinople ; all of these were the works of Grecian artists, as 
 the inscriptions yet remaining imply. Each tessera is a 
 cube of glass, of the size of our common playing dice, 
 traversed by a thin film of gold, in such a manner that 
 the gold leaf does not lie coating the exterior surface, but 
 appears through a vitrified superficies. 
 
 One of the marvels of Egypt, in former times, was the 
 fountain belonging to the Citadel, called " Joseph's Well;' 
 but since the country has been accessible to enlightened 
 travellers, it is no longer considered as any thing extraordi- 
 nary 1 . A regular descent, by steps, has been cut to it, 
 through the soft calcareous rock on which the Citadel 
 stands, to the depth of two hundred and seventy-six feet. 
 The mouth of the well is twenty-four feet in length, and 
 eighteen in breadth 2 . As an example of human labour, 
 
 Niebuhr 
 
 Villa at Tivoli, and lately preserved in the Capitol at Rome ; the celebrated works of 
 Dioscorides of Samos, found in Herculaneum j and the famous Mosaic of Palestrina. See 
 Winkelmann, lib. iv. c. 8. sect. 47. also lib. vi. c. ?. sect. 18, tffc. 
 
 (1) It is not, in fact, the only work of the kind in the neighbourhood of Cairo. 
 The Consul Maillet found five other wells, of the same nature, in the ruins of old 
 Cairo. " J'en ai decouvert cinq a-peu-pres semblables dans les mines du vieux Cairo, 
 au pied das montagnes vers lesquelles la ville s'elevoit depuis les bords du Nil, par un 
 espece d' environ trois-quarts de lieue. Us sont de meme creuses dans le roc, et dune 
 profondeur etonnante." Descript. de I'Egypte, torn. I. p. 269. a La Haye, 1740. 
 
 (2) Norden's Travels, vol. I. p. 65. Lond. 17 57. 
 
GRAND CAIRO. 
 
 Niebuhr considers it to be not at all comparable to the 
 works of the antient Indians, who have cut whole pagodas 
 in the very hardest rocks 3 . Yet it must be confessed that 
 few similar designs have ever been attempted ; and if 
 the skill which has been shewn in conducting the exca- 
 vation be taken into consideration, the perforations for 
 admitting light all the way down, and the general per- 
 fection of the work itself, it may be compared rather to 
 the labours of the antient Egyptians, than to any modern 
 undertaking. 
 
 Other parts of this Citadel afford reason to believe 
 that an establishment was made here long before the 
 time of the Saracen Caliphs. Not to insist upon the 
 appearance of hieroglyphic inscriptions mentioned by 
 Paul Lucas 4 , and which perhaps belonged to the remains 
 of edifices brought here as building materials, yet, from 
 the size of some of the stones upon which a modern 
 superstructure has been raised, as well as from the conformity 
 of its general appearance, as an Acropolis, to the plans 
 of the most antient cities, it may be inferred that a 
 citadel existed here before any Saracen settlement had 
 taken place in this part of Egypt. 
 
 The subject seems to merit more attention than it has yet 
 
 received. 
 
 89 
 
 CHAP. III. 
 
 (3) Niebuhr's Travels, vol. I. p. 59. Edinh. 17Q2. 
 
 (4) " J'apperc.us meme, sur quelques-uns de ces pierces, plusieurs caracteres hiero- 
 glyphiques qui sont de la premiere antiquite." Voyage du Paul Lucas, torn. II. p. 126. 
 Amst. 1714. 
 
 VOL. III. 
 
 ?* 
 
Blffljj K FT^'^fflgWqfflWWT pTp 
 
 w&.;\\i*^>uj>s{*txi I ^H 
 
 TTIClFJn 
 
 
 90 
 
 CHAP. III. 
 
 GRAND CAIRO. 
 
 received. Abdol Caliph, in his History of Egypt 1 , ascribes 
 both the Well and the Castle to Saladine 2 ; but Shaw, who 
 mentions this circumstance, says, it was the restoration of 
 the Citadel, rather than its construction, which should be 
 ascribed to Saladine. Savary, upon the authority of an 
 Arabian writer, maintains that the origin of the city 
 and castle of Cairo must be ascribed to the Saracens 3 . 
 Yet, notwithstanding Savary' s Oriental researches, the Ci- 
 tadel of Cairo may stand upon the spot once occupied by 
 the Acropolis of the Egyptian Babylon : this opinion, 
 maintained by Shaw in opposition to Pococke, who assigned 
 a different position for the Babylonian fortress 4 , is further 
 confirmed by the style of the work used in the structure ; 
 by the skill manifested in hewing the rock upon which 
 it stands, for the way up to it ; for the well ; and for 
 other purposes. Pococke affirmed that the hill itself 
 seemed to have been separated, by art', from the eastern 
 extremity of Mount Mokatam; and this name, according 
 to Shaw 6 , signifies " a mountain hewn, or cut through." 
 Such immense labour is more characteristic of an Assyrian 
 
 colony, 
 
 (1) P. 85. See Shaw's Travels, vol.11, p. 265. Lond. 1757. 
 
 (2) Salah Oddin Joseph Ebn Job, as written by Shaw. 
 
 (3) Lettres sur l'Egypte, torn. I. p. 84. Paris, 1786. 
 
 (4) " Old Cairo seems to have succeeded to the town and fortress of Babylon, 
 which I imagine to have been on Mount Jehusi, at the south end of Old Cairo." 
 Pococke's Description of the East, vol. I. p. 25. Lond. 1743. 
 
 (5)* Ibid. p. 32. 
 
 (6) Shaw's Travels, uhi supra. 
 
GRAND CAIRO. 
 
 colony, than of the Arabians, in any period of their history : 
 and that such a settlement was actually made many ages 
 before the conquest of Egypt by the Arabs, is clear from 
 the evidence of Diodorus Siculus 7 , of Strabo 8 , and of Jose- 
 phus 9 . But long before the foundation, even of the Egyptian 
 Babylon, an establishment had taken place upon the same 
 spot. The situation of the Citadel of Cairo corresponds 
 with the locality of a city almost as old as Memphis. The 
 district in which it stands was the Land of Goshen, or 
 Rameses of Scripture, assigned by Joseph unto his father 
 and his brethren, that they might be near to the seat of the 
 Egyptian kings' . Their first settlement was in the same terri- 
 tory, at On ", the Bethshemesh of the Prophet Jeremiah 1 ", 
 both of which names are rendered, in the Septuagint, 
 Heliopolis 13 ; but in their departure, according to Josephus, 
 they passed by the ruins of a city called Letopolis li , upon 
 the site of which Cambyses afterwards erected the Egyp- 
 tian Babylon". 
 
 Among 
 
 91 
 
 CHAP. III. 
 
 (7) Diod. Sic. lib. i. p. 52. Hanov. 1604. 
 
 (8) Strabon. Geog. lib. xvii. p. 1143. Ed. Oxon. 1807. 
 
 (9) Josephus de Antiq. Jud. lib. ii. c. 15. Colon. \QQ\. 
 
 (10) " And thou shalt be near unto me, thou and thy children." Gen. xiv. 10. 
 
 (11) Josephus uses the words iv 'HAIOYIIOAEI. Antiq. lib. ii. cap. A. 
 
 (12) Jerern. xliii. 13. 
 
 (13) 'HXtoi/VoXtc. 
 
 (14) So called from Anrovs, Latona Dea. It has been confounded with Latopolis. 
 See the Notes to the Oxford edition of Strabo, vol. II. p. 1143. Might not the annual 
 sacrifice of a Virgin to the Nile, which is said by some authors to have happened here, 
 
 at the period of its inundation, have some reference to the mythological history of the 
 persecution of Latona by the Serpent Python ? 
 
 (15) Joseph. Antiq. lib. ii. cap. 15. Colon. 
 
»-.j$*«K*fc A ■ 
 
 -■--■■■•■■>■■•-.'■.•••-■-'-■ 
 
 
 92 
 
 CHAP. III. 
 
 View from the 
 Ramparts. 
 
 GRAND CAIRO. 
 
 Among all the sights which this extraordinary country 
 presents to the eyes of an European traveller, there is 
 nothing more novel than the view of objects beheld 
 from the Citadel 1 . A very considerable district, whether 
 the spectator regard the East or the South, is distinguished 
 by one uniform buff colour. Towards the North, this colour 
 is opposed by the most vivid green that imagination can 
 conceive; covering all the Delta. Upon the West are seen 
 the Pyramids, reflecting the sun's beams, and as white as 
 snow. In order that the reader may comprehend the exact 
 situation of all that is seen from hence, this Chapter may 
 conclude by a detail of the relative position of the dif- 
 ferent abjects, as they were observed by a mariner's compass. 
 This node of description was frequently used by the cele- 
 brated Wheler, in the account he published of his Travels 
 in Greece'; and it will be occasionally adopted in the 
 remaining Chapters of this Section. 
 
 View 
 
 (1) After the author's return to England, he often endeavoured to direct the 
 attention of some Panorama painter of London to this curious spot ; being convinced 
 that a mere surprising subject for that kind of painting could not be found in any other 
 part of the world. Some years afterwards, a View of Cairo, painted by Mr. Barker, after 
 designs by Mr. Salt, was exhibited in Leicester Fields. The effect, however, was 
 deficient. The objects represented, and especially the Pyramids, were too diminutive ; 
 the remarkable contrast of colour, and the peculiar hues displayed by the original scene, 
 were not preserved ; and the general cast of the scenery had too much the air 
 of an European landscape. As a picture, considering the difficulty encountered by 
 an artist in the representation of a scene he had never beheld, it was a work of 
 great merit ; but to delineate with fidelity that which is like nothing else, the artist 
 must himself visit Egypt. 
 
 (2) See Wheler's Travels, pp. 410, 442, 449, &c. Lond. 1682. 
 
GRAND CAIRO. 
 
 93 
 
 View from the Citadel of Cairo. 
 
 East. 
 
 A very unusual and striking spectacle ; all the landscape 
 being of a buff, or bright stone-colour ; and the numerous 
 buildings in view having the hue of the plains on which 
 they stand. In the distance is an arid desert, without a 
 single mark of vegetation. Nearer to the eye appear 
 immense heaps of sand, the Obelisk of Heliopolis, and the 
 stately mosques, minarets, and sepulchres, belonging to a 
 Ccemetery of the Caliphs in a suburb of Cairo, called 
 Beladcensan ; a place crowded with buildings of a singular 
 form 3 . 
 
 South East. 
 
 Hills and broken mounds, disposed, in vast masses, with 
 very great grandeur. 
 
 South. 
 
 A grand scene of desolation; the same buff colour 
 prevailing over every object. In the fore-ground are the 
 lofty quarries of Mount Mokatam, with ruined castles, 
 mouldering domes, and the remains of other edifices, above, 
 below, and stretching beneath the heights, far into the 
 plain. More distant, appear the mountains of Upper Egypt, 
 flanking the eastern bank of the Nile, and a wide misty view 
 of the Said. 
 
 South West, and West. 
 
 Immediately beneath the eye is seen the Aqueduct, 
 supported by arches, and extending two miles in length, 
 
 from 
 
 CHAP. III. 
 
 (3) See Plate 24. in the large Paris Edition of Denon's Travels. 
 
 

 94 GRAND CAIRO. 
 
 chap. in. from the Nile to the Citadel ; together with mosques, 
 minarets, and immense heaps of sand. But the grand object, 
 viewed in this direction, is the Nile itself. At this time, 
 having attained its greatest elevation, extending over a 
 wide surface, and flowing with great rapidity, it appeared 
 covered with barges belonging to the army, and the va- 
 rious vessels of the country, spreading their enormous sails 
 on every part of it. The Ruins of Old Cairo, the Island and 
 groves of Rhouda, enrich this fine prospect. Beyond the 
 river appears the town of Djiza, amidst the most beautiful 
 groves of sycamore, fig, and palm trees ; still more remote, 
 the Pyramids of Djiza and Saccara ; and, beyond these, the 
 great Libyan Desert, extending to the utmost verge of the 
 visible horizon ; a vast ocean of sand. 
 
 North West, and North. 
 
 The green plains of the Delta occupy all the distant 
 perspective in this direction, like so many islands, covered 
 with groves and gardens, and adorned with white edifices ; 
 among these the djerms, the canjas, and other beautiful 
 boats of the Nile, are seen sailing. 
 
 North East. 
 
 The whole City of Cairo, extending from the North 
 towards the North East, and surrounded, in the latter 
 direction, by heaps of sand. Immediately beneath the 
 spectator is seen a grand and gloomy structure, called The 
 Mosque of Sultan Hassan, standing close to one of two lakes, 
 which appear among the crowded buildings of the city. 
 
 Such 
 
GRAND CAIRO. 
 
 Such is the surprising and highly diversified view from 
 the Citadel of Grand Cairo. It will not be too much to 
 affirm of this extraordinary prospect, that a scene more 
 powerfully affecting the mind, by the singularity of its 
 association, is not elsewhere contained within any scope of 
 human observation; — a profusion of Nature, amidst her most 
 awful privation ; a disciplined army, encamped amidst 
 lawless banditti ; British pavilions, and Bedouin tents ; 
 luxurious gardens, and barren deserts ; the pyramid and 
 the mosque ; the obelisk and the minaret ; the sublimest 
 monuments of human industry, amidst mouldering reliques 
 of Saracenic power. 
 
 95 
 
 CHAP. III. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
' A&VtM&jMfifey* ■■■■■■ 
 
 SflS3BiJB»S5S5B'»*53e* 
 
 
 
 • 
 
 
 CHAP. IV. 
 
 HELIOPOLIS, AND THE PYRAMIDS OF DJIZA. 
 
 Passage along the Canal — Visit to Heliopolis — Matarea — Pillar of 
 On — Style of the Hieroglyphics — Intelligence concerning them — their 
 Archetypes— -Crux ar.sata — its meaning explained — Of the Hieralpha 
 and the Testudo — Other Symbols — Kircher — History of the Obelisk 
 — Minerals of the Arabian Desert — Doubtful Origin of Egyptian 
 Jasper — Petrifactions — Dates and Corn — Almehs — Of the Alle- 
 luia, and cry of lamentation — Voyage to the Pyramids — Appearance 
 presented by the principal Pyramid — Objects seen from the summit — 
 Nature of the Limestone used in its construction — Extraneous Fossil 
 described by Strabo — Mortar — Labours of the French Army — Theft 
 committed by an Arab — Visit to the interior of the larger Pyramid — 
 Notions entertained of its violation — Its passages — Observation at the 
 Well — Examination of some inferior Channels — Chamber of the Se- 
 pulchre — The Soros — its demolition attempted — The Sphinx — its 
 surface found to be painted — Discovery of an antient Inscription — 
 Custom of painting antient Statues — Extract from Pauw. 
 
 Our house in Grand Cairo stood in a principal street, near 
 the northern bank of the Canal; so that our djerm, being 
 
 always 
 
GRAND CAIRO. 
 
 always at hand, served us, like a gondola at Venice, instead 
 of a carriage; and we frequently used it to visit the different 
 parts of the city accessible by canals. Upon the twenty- 
 first of August, the inundation being nearly at its height, we 
 attempted a passage by water to the utmost extremity of the 
 the Amnis Trajanus 1 , in the direction of the Birk el Hadjee, 
 or Pilgrim s Lake, which was the first station of the great 
 
 Caravan, 
 
 (l) The Khalig, or principal Canal of Cairo, believed to be the TPAIAN02 
 ITOTAM02 of Ptolemy, (Fid. Geog. lib. iv. c. 5.) and called also, by some writers, Fossa 
 Traiana. Savary, upon the authority of Elmacin, an Arabic historian, attributes this work 
 entirely to Omar, and says it was Adrian, rather than Trajan, who caused a canal to be 
 dug near Cairo. (Lettres sur VEgypte, torn. I. p. 94. Paris, 1785.) There is, however, 
 reason to. believe that Omar's work was merely a restoration of the antient dyke. It 
 extends eastward of the Nile, to the distance of twelve miles, and is terminated by the 
 Pilgrim's Lake. Formerly it was continued to Heroopolis, upon the banks of the Red 
 Sea. This undertaking was begun by Sesostris, carried on by Darius, and finished by 
 Ptolemy Philadelphus. Its last restoration took place in the year 644, under Caliph Omar. 
 (Strabon. Geog. lib. xvii. torn. II. p. 1140. Edit. Oxon. See also the Notes in the Oxford 
 edition of Strabo.) The history of this great undertaking, in its origin, is thus related 
 by Pliny, who says the design was abandoned through fear of inundating Egypt with 
 the waters of the Red Sea. " Daneon portus, ex quo navigabilem alveum perducere in 
 Nilum (qua parte ad Delta dictum decurrit lxii mill. pass, intervallo, quod inter 
 jlumen et Rubrum mare interest) primus omnium Sesostris JEgypti rex cogitavit : mox 
 Darius Persarum : deinde Ptolemceus sequens : qui et duxit fossam latitudine pedum 
 centum, altitudine triginta, in longitudinem xxxvii mill, d pass, usque adfontes amaros: 
 ultra deterruit inundationis metus, excelsior e tribus cubitis Rubro mari comperto, quam 
 terra JEgypti." (Plin. Hist. Nat. lib.xi. cap.2g. torn. I. p. 331. L. Bat. 1635.) Ac- 
 cording to the passage which Savary has translated from Elmacin, Omar's lieutenant, 
 Amrou, opened the communication between the Red Sea and the Nile by means of 
 this canal ; and a navigation, bearing the produce of Egypt, actually commenced. "Les 
 bateaux partant de Fostat, porterent dans la Mer de Colzoum les denrees de I'Egypte." 
 (Voy. Lett, sur VEgypte, torn. I. p. 96. Paris, 1785.) « Such," says Savary, » is the 
 origin of that famous canal, which travellers, copying each other, have called Amnis 
 Trajanus." Be it remembered, however, that in this number are Pococke and Shaw ; 
 and with all deference to Savary's great abilities, and to his predilection for Arabic 
 histories, it may be presumed that neither of these writers was unacquainted with the 
 sources whence the French author derived his information. 
 VOL. III. O 
 
 97 
 
 CHAP. IV. 
 
 •- 
 
98 
 
 HELIOPOLIS. 
 
 CHAP. IV. 
 
 Visit to He- 
 liopolis. 
 
 Caravan, in its journey to Mecca. We soon found our pro- 
 gress obstructed by the arch of a bridge, which was so 
 low, that our djerm could not pass beneath it, and we were 
 compelled to return. 
 
 The next day, having obtained horses and a Janissary, we 
 set out again, in the same direction, by land, desirous of seeing 
 the remains of Heliopolis, one of the most antient cities of 
 the world whereof a vestige can now be traced. More than 
 eighteen hundred years ago its ruins attracted the regard of 
 the most enlightened travellers of Greece and Rome. Nearly 
 thirty years before the Christian osra they were visited by 
 Strabo ; and the interesting description which he has given 
 of them, proves the condition of that once famous seat of 
 science to have been then almost as desolate as at the 
 present period. If, as Shaw has ingeniously attempted to 
 prove 1 , the accretion of soil, from the annual inundation of 
 the Nile, "has been in a proportion of somewhat more than a 
 foot in a hundred years,' we might search for some of the 
 antiquities mentioned by Strabo, at the depth of six yards 
 below the present surface. But when Pococke visited the 
 place, he observed the fragments of Sphinxes yet remaining, 
 in the antient way leading to the eminence on which the 
 Temple of the Sun stood, between the principal entrance to 
 its area, and the southern side of the obelisk standing before 
 it 2 . The Sphinxes which Pococke saw, were, in fact, a part of 
 the identical antiquities that were noticed by Strabo so many 
 
 centuries 
 
 (1) Travels, Second Edition, p. 308. Ch. II. sect. 3. 
 
 (2) Pococke's Descript. of the East, vol. I. p. 23. Lond, 1743. 
 
HELIOPOLIS. 
 
 .99 
 
 CHAP. IV. 
 
 centuries before 3 ; whence it is reasonable to conclude, that 
 very little labour would be necessary to excavate even the 
 pavement of the temple 4 . From the observations made 
 by Pococke, he deduces an inference, that the utmost 
 height to which the soil has accumulated does not exceed 
 seven feet and a half. At the time of our visit to 
 Heliopolis, all the area of the antient temple was 
 under water ; so that any search of this kind was thereby 
 prevented. 
 
 Our road to this place from Cairo was along the 
 southern side of the canal, through the most fertile gardens, 
 and amidst thick groves of olive and orange trees. In our 
 way, we halted at Matarea, a village which is generally Matar^a. 
 believed to occupy a part of the site of the antient city 6 . 
 Here travellers are entertained with a number of absurd 
 superstitions, similar to those already described in the 
 account of the Holy Land. The principal number of 
 Christians who visit Matar6a are pilgrims, attracted by the 
 supposed sanctity of the spot, as connected with the history 
 
 of 
 
 (3) A<o cs tov /.dJkouq Travros ifyjr l(j>' sKctTcpa tov irXdrovc cfyiyytx 'ISpwrai 
 XiOti'cti, 7n/Yt<c ttKoaiv, fj ptKpu irXttovc dif dXXtjXoip ctlxovaai, uad' tva fxlv Ik Se^iuv 
 tlvou otikov (iTToiyov) tuv irfiyycov, tva V i£ tvuvvfiuv. " Per totam vero longitudinem 
 deinceps ex utraque lalitudinis parte sunt positse lapidese sphinges, vicenis cubitis, vel 
 paulo pluribus inter se distantes : ut altera sphingum series sit a dextra, altera a sinistra." 
 Strab. Gcog. lib. mil torn. 11. p. 1142. Edit. Oxon. 
 
 (4) Ibid. 
 
 (5) Descript. of the East, vol. I. p. 23. 
 
 (0) This place is said by Quaresmius to be ten geographical miles from Cairo/ 
 (Fid. Elucid. Terr. Sanct. lorn. II. p. 948. Antv. 163Q) meaning, probably, from Old 
 Cairo: as it is only five from Grand Cairo, according to Bernardino. 
 

 ^B^HH mmmok 
 
 I H H 1BBBB BHI VWWQHUwMCm 
 
 - *. . I i ... . •* '-v -. v .. *- . j* •<-_ — -r*^Z2*&iae >ix,±jytt*— !•*•**''*■"* 
 
 100 
 
 CHAP. IV. 
 
 HELIOPOLIS. 
 
 of our Saviour. The celebrated Fountain of the Sun 1 , 
 whence the city itself seems to have been originally named, 
 and whose delicious water attracted the earliest settlers to 
 the eastern side of the Nile, was, according to Monkish 
 legends, only known from the time that the Holy Family 
 came into Egypt. It burst forth, they say, when the Virgin 
 
 with 
 
 (1) Called Ain Schemps by the Arabs, which agrees with the name of Heliopol'iSj 
 as found in Abulfeda, and cited by the learned Kircher ; CEdip. &gypt. lorn. III. 
 p. 331. Rom. 1655. "Ain Schemps, sive Heliopolis, quam et Oculum seu fontem 
 Solis appellant, temporibus nostris desolata est, neque sunt in ea habitationes ullae; et 
 dicitur, quod merit civitas Pharaonis : sunt in ea insignia antiquitatis monumenta, 
 constructa ex lapidibus et saxis maximis ; inter caetera verb columna quadrata, quae 
 vocatur Acus Pharaonis (id est Oleliscus), longitudo ejus 30 cubitorum, estque a Cayro 
 fere media mergala5 est etiam ibidem villa dicta Matarea, sita ad latus sinistrum 
 Orientalis Nili." 
 
 It may be proper to notice here a very extraordinary doubt of the learned Larcher 
 concerning this city, as it is expressed in the Table Geographique, published in the 
 Appendix to his Translation of Herodotus. M. Larcher asserts, in opposition to every 
 preceding writer, that Heliopolis was situated in the Delta, and that Matarea stands on 
 the site of an insignificant town of the same name, which has been confounded with 
 the more renowned city. For this assertion M. Larcher offers no proof whatsoever ; 
 but refers his reader to a separate dissertation, which he intends to publish upon this 
 subject. With the utmost deference to that profound scholar, it may be surely urged, 
 that what Kircher, Pococke, and Shaw, considered to be established, will not be hastily 
 abandoned. In addition to this it may be asked, do not the remains of Sphinxes, noticed 
 by Pococke, confirm the description given by Strabo of the ruins of Heliopolis ? Do not 
 the stupendous Obelisks, one of which is now standing, (two others were taken to Rome, 
 Vid. Stralon. Geog. lib. xvii. p. 1142. Ed. Oxon.) indicate, beyond a possibility of 
 contradiction, the vestiges of no inconsiderable city ? The observations of Strabo con- 
 cerning the situation of the 'H\ioiro\iT>)'j vo/toV, and the tov 'HXiov tto'Ak, are given with 
 remarkable precision ; and when these are compared with the observations made by 
 modern travellers, the evidence for the position of the city is complete} and nothing seems 
 likely to supersede it. He is describing the country along the Pelusiac branch of the 
 Nile; and coming to the Canal between that river and the Red Sea, he deduces its 
 origin from a period anterior to the Trojan War. The subject leads him to Arsinoe, 
 near which city this canal joined the Sinus Heroopoliles. Thence returning to the 
 Nile, he speaks of places on its eastern side, which are near to the southern point or 
 
 vertex 
 
HELIOPOLIS. 
 
 with Joseph and the infant Jesus reposed themselves, in their 
 flight from the fury of Herod. We breakfasted beneath the 
 shade of a sycamore fig-tree, which is said to have opened and 
 to have received the fugitives, when closely pursued 2 : and here 
 we listened to many other stories of the same nature, the 
 relation of which even old Sandys considered to be "an 
 abuse of time, and a provocation of his reader 3 ." However, 
 by imitating the conduct of the pilgrims, in breaking off 
 and bearing away with us a few scions of this venerable 
 tree, (as Sandys says 4 , " all to be hacktfor the wood thereof, 
 
 reputed 
 
 vertex of the Delta ; mentioning first Bui as t us, then Heliopolis, Letopolis, &c. and 
 their respective nomes ; enumerating these as they occurred from the North towards 
 the South, until he reaches the Nile beyond the Delta ; and speaks of Libya as being on 
 the right, and Arabia upon the left : " Wherefore," says he, " the Heliopolitan district 
 is in Arabia." 'H /u.ev ovv 'HXiottoXitk; iv nj 'Apafiiq. krrlv. After this observation, 
 can it be affirmed that Heliopolis was in the Delta r Another very remarkable observation 
 of Strabo may be cited, with reference to antiquities observed by Maillet, which seem to 
 prove, not only that Matarea denotes the site of Heliopolis, but also that Old Cairo stands 
 within the Letopolitan district : it is, the mention he makes of certain Cave?, or pits, for 
 astronomical observations, lying in the Letopolitan prefecture, beyond Heliopolis. Maillet 
 discovered, among the ruins of Old Cairo, several pits excavated to a very'great depth in 
 the rock, after the manner of Joseph's Well. (See the Note to p. 88. of this volume.) 
 These correspond with the notions at present entertained of the astronomical wells of 
 the Antients ; and perhaps they are the Astronomical Caves alluded to by Strabo. — 
 For other particulars concerning Heliopolis, see Herodot. Euterpe; Diodorus Siculus, lib. v. 
 c. 57 ; Ptolemceus; Stephanus ; tsfc. &c. 
 
 (2) See an Engraving of the Well ; the edifice erected over it; and of this tree; 
 in Bernardino's Trattato delle Piante et lmmagini de sacri Edifizi di Terra Santa, &c. 
 Firenza, 1620. The representation includes the famous Balsam Garden of Cleopatra, 
 which no longer exists. Bernardino was in Egypt in 15p7. 
 
 (3) Sandys' Travels, p. 127. Lond. 1637. The reader, who is curious to be amused 
 with a complete detail of all the Christian superstitions concerning Cairo and its neigh- 
 bourhood, may consult Quaresmius, Elucid. Terr. Sanct. torn. II. Antv. 1630. His 
 account of the Sanctities of Matarea is given in p. Q48 of that volume. 
 
 (4) Ibid. 
 
 101 
 
 CHAP. IV. 
 
%:a<^;^aiA*M^*S&*A* ! -Xj*a{*-#»x? 
 
 _ . ._ _ , ■ _.._. , .............. . 
 
 
 CHAP. IV. 
 
 102 HELIOPOLIS. 
 
 reputed of soveraigne vertuc") we were enabled to gratify 
 our botanical friends in England with very rare specimens 
 for their herbaries 1 . The well of Matarda is supposed to 
 be pictured in the famous Mosaic pavement of Praeneste 2 , 
 where a representation is also preserved of the Temple of 
 the Sun, or Bethshemesh of sacred scripture 3 , with the obelisks 
 as they stood before the vestibule of the building, 
 pniar of on. We then went to visit the renowned pillar of On% or 
 
 Obelisk of Heliopolis, (the only great work of antiquity 
 now remaining in all the Land of Goshen ,) standing on the 
 spot where the Hebrews had their first settlement 6 . All the 
 surrounding plain was at this time inundated, so that it 
 seemed as rising from a lake. The water was, however, 
 shallow, and we rode upon our horses towards the obelisk. 
 The ground being rather elevated towards its base, the author 
 was here enabled to gain a precarious footing in the midst 
 of the pool, where he might remain and leisurely delineate 
 the hieroglyphics which are rudely sculptured upon this 
 
 superb 
 
 (1) See Chap. II. p. 31. y 
 
 (2) Shaw's Travels, sect. 7. ch. 2. p. 424. Lond. 1/57- See also the history of 
 this pavement in Montfaucon's Antiquities, vol. xiv. 
 
 (3) " He shall break also the Images of Beth-shemesh (i. e. the house, or City of 
 the Sun) that is in the land of Egypt." Jer. xliii. 13. 
 
 (4) " And Pharaoh called Joseph's name Zaphnath-paaneah : and he gave him to 
 wife Asenath the daughter of Poti-pherah priest of On." Gen. xli. 45. This name of 
 the city is rendered 'HXtoviroXeus by the LXXII, as is also the Hdlbrew word Beth- 
 shemesh, mentioned in the preceding Note. 
 
 (5) See Shaw's Travels, torn. II. chap. 5. 
 
 (6) %vyt-^uprjfrcv avru (i]v fxerd tuv tikvuv Iv 'YiXiovrrdXei. " Concessit ei cum 
 liberis suis Heliopolin habitare." Josephi Antiq. Jud. lib. ii. cap. 7. torn. I. p. Q5. 
 Amst. &c. 1726. 
 
St./, J h, r.miutli^ 
 
 IELISK of HE LI OF ©LIS 
 
 fte&Usked \W 16*161$, hrT.<M,-U .<■ JTtkwf Sinm.L Em 
 
IBB ■sDwaiianiBK^SjS] HBi 
 
 ■OC*.^r'*^r-^t^^ii^v3^> dfi^tS--. H >*./>^. ■:< .■ i *---~>^.^?,'<-*. r&*v&','*Xr' ■iK<*TJ i J^jP2frCT''#' 
 
HELIOPOLIS. 
 
 103 
 
 superb monument. These have been already engraved, both ch ap. iv 
 by Norden and by Shaw; but in neither instance with 
 accuracy 7 . From the coarseness of the sculpture, as well as 
 the history of the city to which this obelisk belonged, there 
 is reason to believe it the oldest monument of the kind in 
 Egypt'. Its height is between sixty and seventy feet 9 ; its 
 breadth, at the base, six feet : the whole being one entire 
 mass of reddish granite, the Granites durus rubcscens of 
 Linnaeus. Each of its four sides exhibits the same characters, 
 and in the same order. Those which face the south have 
 been the least affected by the decomposition of the sub- 
 stance in which they are hewn ; and it is from the southern 
 side that the author's design is taken. He has endeavoured 
 to imitate the rude style of the antient sculpture, and to 
 present, as nearly as possible, a faithful representation of 
 the original. After the remark made by Strabo, concerning 
 the hieroglyphics of Heliopolis, that they much resembled 
 the works left by the Etrurians, and by the antient Gre- 
 cians 10 , a curiosity to see these, in particular, is naturally 
 
 excited. 
 
 (7) The same may be said of the engraving of this obelisk in Kircher's CEdipus 
 jEgyptiacus, where the scarabceus pilularius is introduced, instead of the rude symbol 
 which appears upon the original, and which was probably intended to' represent that 
 insect. 
 
 (8) ' ' Antiquissima fuit, ut origoetiam ad fabulas referatur." Cellar. Geog. torn. II. 
 Pars 3. p. 42. Lips. 1706. 
 
 (9) Shaw makes its height equal only to sixty-four feet ; (Trav. p. 366. Lond.1757.) 
 although he says " other travellers have described it to be upwards of seventy." Pococke 
 ascertained its height, by the quadrant, and found it to be sixty- seven feet and a half. 
 Descript-. of the East, vol.1, p. 23. Lond. 1743.. .' 
 
 (10) 'Aj'ay\i/<pac i^ovntv oi rotvot ovroi /nsydXuv siCiSKav, ofxoiuv roU TvppijviK0~i<;, 
 Kal role dpyaloie fffocpa tuv vapd role ''E\\r/<7t crffiiovpytifidruy, " Hi parietes ingen- 
 tium simulacrorum sculpturas habent, Etruscis et antiquis Graecise operibus per similium." 
 Strabon. Geog. lib.xvW. p. 1142. Ed. Oxon. I8O7. 
 

 104 
 
 CHAP. IV. 
 
 Style of the 
 Hierogly- 
 phics. 
 
 HELIOPOLIS. 
 
 excited. They are remarkably characterized by the rudeness 
 of their style of sculpture; but in the representations 
 given of them in books of Travels, the simplicity of the 
 original work has been sacrificed, in attempting to express, 
 from more perfect models, the intended delineation of 
 the antient sculptor. Thus, in the view of this obelisk, 
 published by Shaw, and also by Norden, many of 
 the hieroglyphic figures are fancifully restored, under a 
 notion of improving their appearance ; and some are alto- 
 gether omitted. In the first oval inclosure, from the top of 
 the obelisk, there is a rude figure, something like what is 
 vulgarly called a bird-bolt, with a circle above it. Shaw 
 believed this to be intended for the scarabceus pilularius, 
 which is so frequently seen upon Egyptian monuments : 
 accordingly, he completely restored the figure of the beetle, 
 making it appear as a more perfect representation of what 
 he had seen elsewhere '. Borden also did the same . Possibly 
 they were right in their conjectures as to the figure intended 
 by the antient artist ; but one proof of the great antiquity of 
 this monument rests upon the style of the workmanship; and 
 to misrepresent this, in copying the hieroglyphics, by any 
 aim at superior delineation, is as barbarous as to exhibit an 
 antient inscription in modern characters 3 . 
 
 The 
 
 (1) See the Plate facing p. 365, in Shaw's Travels. Lond. 175/. 
 
 (2) Norden's Travels, Plate facing p. 14. Lond. 1757. 
 
 (3) If the reader believe Hasselquist, he was able to distinguish every species 
 of bird upon this pillar, which he calls the handsomest obelisk in Egypt. " I could 
 know," says he, " a strix (owl) which stood uppermost on the top of the obelisk." 
 See Trau. to the East, p.QQ. Lond. 1766. — All other authors, and among these 
 Kircher, have made the strix of Hasselquist a vulture. 
 
HELIOPOLIS. 
 
 The reader's curiosity to become acquainted with the 
 hidden meaning of the symbols upon this obelisk is perhaps 
 quite equal to that of the author; and if all that Rircher 
 has written for its illustration be adequate to this effect, 
 nothing is easier than to transcribe his observations 4 . 
 But Isis long ago declared, that no mortal had ever 
 removed her veil'; and the impenetrable secret seems 
 not likely to be divulged. One solitary fact has been 
 vouchsafed to ages of restless inquiry upon this subject; 
 namely, that the hieroglyphic characters constituted a writ- 
 ten language 6 , the signs of an antient alphabet, expressed 
 according to the most antient mode of writing, in capital 
 letters 1 : and it is probable that the more compound forms 
 were a series of monograms, like the inscriptions upon the 
 precious stones worn by the High Priest of the Hebrews, 
 which were ordered to be made after the manner of " the 
 engravings of a signet*," and thus to contain within a very 
 small compass, " as stones of memorial" '," even upon " two 
 onyx-stones , the names of the children of Israel™. Strabo's 
 
 observation 
 
 105 
 
 CHAP. IV. 
 
 (4) CEdipus iEgyptiacus, p. 330. Romce, 1654. 
 
 (5) TON EMON IIEnAON OYAEI2 TUl 0NHTOZ AIIEKAAYYEN. 
 
 Plutarch, de Iside et Osir. cap. g. 
 
 (6) See the words of the Greek Inscription upon the Ptolemaic tablet found near 
 Rosetta. 
 
 (7) The letters of the most antient written language of Egypt, according to Dio- 
 dorus, were derived from the Ethiopians 5 and represented all sorts of beasts, the parts of 
 the human body, and divers instruments. The capital letters of the Armenian alphabet 
 (as published in the grammar printed by the Propaganda Fidei) are represented by 
 animals : and it is observed by Pococke, who mentions this circumstance, {Description 
 of the East, vol. I. p. 228. London, 1743,) that " the names of some antient letters are 
 the names of beasts." 
 
 (8) Exodusxxviii.il. ' (9) Ibid. ver. 12. (10) Ibid. ver. 9. 
 VOL. III. P « 
 
***«»»«** !*W>«i« »**»»****»»? 4ft 
 
 
 106 H EL 10 POL IS. 
 
 t chap, iv. ^ observation upon the Heliopolitan sculpture is here of impor- 
 tance : he says, it resembled the workmanship of Etruscans : 
 and by the similarity already noticed l , between the letters 
 of the Etruscan alphabet and the characters observed upon 
 Phoenician signets, as well as the evident agreement of the 
 signs upon Phoenician coins 2 with the Egyptian hieroglyphics, 
 it may be inferred that the mode of writing used by the 
 priests of Egypt corresponded with that which Moses caused 
 to be engraven upon the stones for the ephod, and for the 
 breast-plate of judgment, which are expressly and repeatedly 
 described 3 as " the ivorks of an engraver in stone, like the 
 engravings of a signet." 
 
 But with reference to the inscription upon the obelisk at 
 Heliopolis, and to the numerous examples of the same kind 
 which have been noticed among the antiquities of Egypt, 
 although we are unable to explain any thing of their original 
 import, there is one mode of considering them, in which a 
 careful examination of the signs thus represented may be 
 attended with amusement, if not with instruction. This 
 
 Archetypes of consists, first, in ascertaining what the archetypes were of the 
 
 the Hierogly- 
 phics, several figures used to denote letters : these are sometimes 
 
 clearly exhibited, but often confusedly sketched, as if 
 
 with a view to abbreviation; and, secondly, in using these 
 
 documents, not only to illustrate the manners of the most 
 
 antient 
 
 (1) See Part II. Sect. I. Chap. X. of these Travels, p. 327. Broxlourne, 1812. 
 
 (2) Witness the appearance of the Crux ansatc upon a Phoenician medal found in 
 Cjprus. See Vignette to Chap. XL Part II. Sect. I. of these Travels. 
 
 (3) Exodus, xxviii. 11, 21. 
 
HELIOPOLIS. 
 
 antient nations, but also to prove the existence of many antient 
 customs from their existing reliques. In this point of view, 
 the discoveries made by Denon 4 among the hieroglyphics of 
 Upper Egypt are valuable. The light thrown upon the 
 history of Architecture, of the Arts, and certain even of 
 the Sciences, by the pictured representation of things as 
 they existed in the earliest periods, must gratify a laudable 
 curiosity, and may answer the more important purpose of 
 conveying historical information. The hieroglyphics of 
 Heliopolis will perhaps afford less illustration of this nature 
 than any other characters of the same kind; because the 
 style of sculpture is here so rude, that many of the arche- 
 types, whence the types of the inscription were derived, 
 cannot now be ascertained ; but, on account of their great 
 antiquity, the few that may be discerned are worth notice. 
 In the very summit of the obelisk, beneath the figure of a vul- 
 ture, may be observed the Crux ansata 5 . The original of this 
 
 curious 
 
 107 
 
 CHAP. IV. 
 
 Crux ansata. 
 
 (4) See Denon's account of the hieroglyphics in the Sepulchres of the antient Kings of 
 Thebes. Travels in Upper -and, Lower Egypt, vol.11, p. 173. London, 1803. — Also of 
 the hieroglyphics of " Tentyra," where he discovered the first models of the style of 
 decoration improperly termed Arabesque, such as were executed in painting at the Baths 
 of Titus, and copied by Raphael. See vol. I. p. 211. 
 
 (5) " Sed non erat ullum templum, in quo non figura crucis ansatce, ut earn eruditi 
 vocant, saepius visenda occurreret, hodieque in ruderibus ac minis etiamnum oc- 
 currat. Ejus haec est species -£• - - - - Crucem vero istam ansatam, quae in omnibus 
 iEgyptiorum templis saepius ficta et picta extabat, quam signa Deorum ./Egyptiorum 
 manu tenere solent, quae partem facit ornatus sacerdotalis, nihil aliud esse quam 
 phallum," &c. (Fide Jablonski Panth. jEgypt. I. 282.) Jamblichus thinks the 
 Crux ansata was the name of the Divine Being. Sozomen, and other Christian writers, 
 (Vide Sozomen. Eccl. Hist, lib.y'n. c. 15. Ruffin. Eccl. Hist. lib. ii. c. 2Q.) conceive the 
 whole figure, or at least the cross, to be expressive of the " life to come ,•" deriving this 
 
 opinion 
 

 108 
 
 CHAP. IV. 
 
 HELIOPOLIS. 
 
 curious type was the sort of hey in use among the Antients, 
 which generally appears fastened to a ring. Sometimes it 
 is seen annexed to a rosary of beads, as in the remarkable 
 instance where the same symbol appears upon a Phoenician 
 medal 1 found at Citium in the Isle of Cyprus, of which an 
 engraving was given in the preceding Section*. This kind 
 of key is not entirely banished from modern use; and such 
 instruments have been discovered in the ruins of antient 
 cities. They are often seen in the hands of Egyptian 
 statues. Two were represented, as pendent from hooks, upon 
 a hieroglyphical tablet found near the Pyramids by Paul 
 Lucas 8 . The archetype of this symbol may possibly there- 
 fore have been a hey. It is not the less likely to answer to 
 
 Jablonski's 
 
 opinion from the explanation given of it by those of the Heathens who understood the 
 hieroglyphics, and were converted to Christianity. Sometimes it is represented by a 
 cross fastened to a circle, as above ; in other instances, with the letter f only, fixed in 
 this manner -^ to a circle. By the circle, says Kircher (Prod. Copt. p. l6g), is to be 
 understood the Creator and Preserver of the world ; as the wisdom derived from him, 
 which directs and governs it, is signified by the -f- , t> tne monogram, as he further 
 conjectures, of Mercury, Tkoth, Taaut, or <|>T Ptha. " It is certainly very extra- 
 ordinary," (says Shaw, who has collected almost every information upon this subject,) 
 " and worthy of our notice, that this crux ansata should be so often in their symbolical 
 writings ; either alone, or held in the hands, or suspended over the necks, of their deities. 
 Beetles, and such other sacred animals and symbols, as were bored through, and 
 intended for, amulets, had this figure frequently impressed upon them." (See Shaw's 
 Trav. p. 360. Lond. 175/.) The same author considers it to be the same with the 
 ineffable image of Eternity, noticed by Suidas. Vide Euseb. Prcef. Evan. p. 6g. 
 
 (1) It seems to have as much reference to Phoenicia, as to Egypt. Upon a medal 
 of Sidon the cross appears carried by Minerva in a boat. 
 
 (2) See Part II. Sect. I. p. 328. Vignette to Chap. XI. 
 
 (3) See the Engraving of this in the Second Volume of his Travels, as published at 
 Amsterdam in 1744, torn. II. p. 130. 
 
HELIOPOLIS. 
 
 109 
 
 Meaning 1 of 
 the Crux an- 
 sata. 
 
 Jablonski's explanation of it on this account \ We have chap, iv 
 historical information relative to the meaning of the 
 Crux ansata. Indeed, it may be considered as the only 
 hieroglyphical type concerning whose import we have 
 any certain intelligence. The singular appearance of 
 a Cross so frequently recurring among the hieroglyphics 
 of Egypt, had excited the curiosity of the Christians in a 
 very early period of ecclesiastical history 3 ; and as some of 
 the priests 6 , who were acquainted with the meaning of 
 the hieroglyphics, became converted to Christianity, the 
 secret transpired. " The converted Heathens," says Socrates 
 Scholasticus 7 , "explained the symbol; and declared that 
 it signified ■ life to come.' Ruffinus mentions the 
 
 same fact 8 . Kircher's ingenuity had guided him to an 
 explanation of the Crux ansata, as a monogram, which does 
 
 not 
 
 (4) See Note 5, p. 107, containing an extract from Jablonski, upon the meanino- 
 of the Crux ansata. The women of Naples wear it as a pendant for the ear ; annexing 
 to this ornament the signification which Jablonski has given of the Crux ansata ; but the 
 use of the metaphorical verb Ckiavare, in their language, proves that the same interpre- 
 tation is applicable to a key. An observation occurs in Athenaeus where the letter T is 
 deemed obscene. 
 
 (5) The Serapeum at Alexandria was destroyed about the year 3 89. It was at the 
 destruction of this building that the Christians first became acquainted with the meaning 
 of the Cross among the Egyptian hieroglyphics. 
 
 (6) No liberty is here taken, either with the text of Ruffinus or of Socrates, 
 in saying the priests ; because no others possessed a knowledge of the sacred writing. 
 
 (7) Tovtgiv £e dn^iafinrovf-ievuv, Tivh; rwv ILWtjvuv toj H.pt(rriavca/j.o} irpoatXdovres, 
 rd lrpoy\v(j)iKa re ypdfi/Liara liriardpitvoi, c;iep/unvtvoi>r£<; tov OTUvpotic^i) vapatcriipa, 
 HXtyov arjixaivtiv ZilHN EflEPXOMENHN. "Dum haec inter illos agitaturcontro- 
 versia, quidam ex Gentilium errore ad Christi fidem conversi, qui hujusmodi literarum 
 notitiam habebant, notam hanc crucis forma depictam interpretantes, venturam vitam 
 significare docuerunt." Socrat. Scholast. Histor. Ecclesiast. lib. v. c. 17. p. 276. Paris, 
 1668. — The reader will do well to consult the whole chapter, which contains 
 very curious information. 
 
 (8) Ruffin. Hist. Eccl. lib. ii. c. 29. See also Heliod. iEthiop. lib. iii. p. 148. 
 

 HELIOPOLIS. 
 
 not militate against the signification thus obtained. He 
 says, it consisted of the letters <I>T, denoting Ptha, a name 
 of Mercury ' ; and the name of this deity, as a conductor of 
 the souls of the dead, might well be used with reference to a 
 state of existence after death. But as every Egyptian monogram 
 had its archetype in some animal, or instrument of common 
 use, and the original of the Crux ansata seems to have 
 been a key, we may perhaps, by attending to this curious 
 circumstance, arrive at the origin of those allegorical allusions 
 to a key, which, with reference to a future state of existence, 
 are introduced into the Holy Scriptures. Such an allusion 
 is made in the prophecies of Isaiah, concerning the kingdom 
 of Christ 2 . Our Saviour says unto Peter 3 , " I will give 
 
 UNTO THEE THE KEYS OF THE KINGDOM OF HEAVEN :" and the 
 
 author of the book of Revelations, as if the sacred symbols 
 of antient Egypt had suggested the image to his mind, 
 describes the Angel of the Resurrection* as having in his 
 hand a key. Also, in the sublime prophecy concerning the 
 second advent of the Messiah, a similar allusion may be 
 noticed 5 : "I am he that liveth and was dead; and, 
 
 BEHOLD, I AM ALIVE FOR EVERMORE, AMEN ; AND HAVE THE 
 KEYS OF HELL AND OF DEATH." 
 
 Among the other signs used to express words upon this 
 monument, there is one, respecting which our information is 
 
 not 
 
 (1) Kircher. Prod. Copt. p. 169. See also a former Note upon the Crux ansata. 
 
 (2) " The key of the house of David will I lay upon his shoulder." Isaiah xxii. 22. 
 
 (3) Matthew xvi. 19. 
 
 (4) " And I saw an angel come down from heaven, having the key of the bottom- 
 less pit, and a great chain in his hand." Revel, xx. 1. 
 
 (5) Revel, i. 18. 
 
HELIOPOLIS. 
 
 Ill 
 
 CHAP IV. 
 
 not attended with the same certainty as in the preceding in- 
 stance, although its meaning be not entirely unknown. This 
 is the curious monogram, called Hieralpha by Kircher 6 , com- Hieraipha. 
 posed of the Greek letters A and A, which he explains, from 
 Plutarch, to signify Agatho Daemon, and to have had for its 
 archetype an Ibis, in a particular attitude 7 . It may be 
 observed near the centre of the obelisk, immediately above 
 another figure of the Crux ansata, similar to that which 
 has been already described. Pauw ridicules Kircher's no- 
 tion ; admitting, at the same time, a resemblance between 
 the first letter of the Greek alphabet and the Theban 
 plough 8 . Now the plough was, in fact, an archetype of the 
 symbol which Kircher calls Hieralpha : and although Pauw 
 has proved this point, perhaps beyond dispute, yet some- 
 thing may still be added in its confirmation. The sort 
 of hand-plough, represented as a sceptre in the hands 
 
 of 
 
 (6) " Hie character idem significat, quod 'AyaflcY Aai/nuv, id est, Bonus Genius ; 
 et componitur ex initialibus Uteris A et A. Si enim producitur A litera, fiat A, quod in 
 se monogrammatice continet A et A ; invenitur autem haec litera hieroglyphica in om- 
 nibus fere ./Egyptiacis inscriptionibus, &c. quam et Hieralpham imposterum vocabi- 
 mus." {Kircher. CEdip. j&gypt. Theatrum Hieroglyphicum, torn. III. p. 50. Rom. 1654.) 
 Also (in Prod. Copt. p. 231.) the same author says, " Hoc p.ovoypapaiov A, ex 
 A et A compositum, in nullo non obelisco frequentissimum, iEgyptiarum vocum 
 CDlV^-OOC A.CJt*.0n, quibus bonumgeniumDefttf? Nili seusEgypti signant, index ; 
 cum praeter dictarum vocum capitales literas, ejus quoque JEgypti portionis figuram 
 quam A passim vocant, clare dictum fj.ovoypaf.ip.ov exprimat." 
 
 (7) 'I/3tc re iroiei ttJ tuv irodav diroaTcifrci irpdi; dWtjXovc, KOI trpog to piyKOc iao- 
 irXevpov rpiyuivov. "Ibis pedum divarication e eorum inter se, et cum rostro comparatione, 
 triangulum refert cequilaterum." Plutarch. Sympos. 5. Also 'E^/if/c Xiyirac Qtuv iv 
 A.tyvTTT<j> ypctpfxara irpioroc evpeiv, hid Kal to tuv ypaf.ifiq.TMV AiyviTTioi irpuTov"lj3iv 
 ypcx(povffi, Jc 'Ep/j.rj (Wyadotaip.ovi) 7rpo<T)')Kov(rav. " Mercurius primus Deorum in 
 iEgypto traditur invenisse literas, atque adeo Ibin iEgyptii primam literam faciunt Mer- 
 cuno, videlicet Agathodaemoni, convenientem." Id. in lib. vs.. Sympos. 2,3, See also 
 Kircher CEdip. sEgypt. Theat. Hieroglyph, p. 43. Rom. 1654. 
 
 (8) Philosoph. Diss. &c. vol.11, p. 121. Lond. 1795. 
 
H «ffi l^gtl H 
 
 
 ■■HHM 
 
 CHAP. IV. 
 
 112 HELIOPOLIS. 
 
 of the priests and kings of Egypt l , is still used by many of 
 the Celtic tribes. The author has also seen it in Lapland. 
 It has this form, V which precisely corresponds (although 
 in an inverted position) with the sort of sceptre men- 
 tioned by Diodorus, and denominated Hier alpha by Kircher. 
 There are also a few symbols rendered interesting in 
 the representations they offer of instruments still used 
 by modern nations, without any deviation from their 
 Tettudo. most antient form: such, for example, as the Testudo, 
 or Cithara, of the Antients, a two-stringed lyre, con- 
 structed of the shell of a land- tortoise, common to all 
 the shores of the Mediterranean. It corresponds with the 
 Balalaika of the Russians, and is in use among theCalmucks 2 . 
 This instrument is believed to be the <K)PMirs of Homer*. 
 It may be observed about half way up the face of the 
 obelisk, upon the left hand, placed by the side of an axe or 
 hatchet. The sort of staff, capped with the representation 
 of an animal's head, which is seen in the hands of Egyptian 
 deities among their hieroglyphic figures, and frequently 
 delineated upon Greek vases, as a badge of distinction worn 
 by Grecian Hierarchs, is yet in use among the Patriarchs 
 
 and 
 
 (1) Philosoph.Diss.&c. ibid. Fid. Diod. Sic. lib.'iv. Tibullus, lib. i. 
 
 " Primus aratra manu solerti fecit Osiris, 
 Et teneram ferro solicitavit humura." 
 
 (2) See Part I. of these Travels, Chap. XII. p. 244. Second Edit. 
 
 (3) The author is indebted for this observation to a letter he received from R. P. Knight, 
 Esq. soon after the publication of the First Part of these Travels. Alluding to the account 
 given in p. 244 (Second Edition), of a two-stringed lyre represented in the Calmuck 
 paintings, Mr. Knight said that he considered this instrument to be the same which 
 Homer mentions, uuder the name of tyopfxiyt, : 
 
 T^olacv B' cv fiiatroiat ird'os (\>6pp,tyyi \iytin 
 
 'ljuepoev Kiddpifc. Iliad. 2. 569. 
 
HELIOPOLIS. 
 
 113 
 
 and Bishops of the Greek Church ; and this may be 
 observed in two instances upon the Heliopolitan pillar. 
 For the rest, the reader, if he have patience for the inquiry, 
 may be referred to Kircher 3 ; who has written a particular 
 dissertation upon this obelisk, and, in his endeavour to 
 explain its symbols in detail, has brought together all that 
 his vast erudition enabled him to communicate ; although 
 it must be evident, since the discovery of a Greek translation 
 of hieroglyphics upon the Rosetta Stone, that the interpre- 
 tation proposed by him, of these characters, cannot accord 
 with their real signification. 
 
 With the description of this obelisk the author is com- 
 pelled to terminate his very limited observations concerning 
 Heliopolis : for such is the solitary remnant of a city and 
 University where Herodotus was instructed in the wisdom of 
 the Egyptians ; and where, eighteen hundred years ago, the 
 schools' 1 of Plato, and of Eudoxus, were shewn to Roman tra- 
 vellers, as, in some future age, the places where a Locke and 
 
 a Newton 
 
 CHAP. IV. 
 
 (3) Vid. Syntagma vm. Theat. Hieroglyph. CEdipi y£gyptiaci, torn. III. p. 330. 
 
 Rom. 1654. Kircher's account of this obelisk is divided into four distinct chapters. 
 
 1. " De origine Obelisci Heliopolitani." 2. "De erectione et mensurd Obelisci." 3. " Ar- 
 gumentum hujus Obelisci." 4. " Interpreiatio Obelisci." Of these, the reader will in all 
 probability rest satisfied with the two first : these, being historical, are valuable. An ex- 
 amination of Kircher's work will offer a striking example of the patient research and 
 amazing erudition which characterized the learned labours of the Jesuits ; but when he 
 proceeds to fhe interpretation of the hieroglyphics in detail, his reveries may be com- 
 pared to the feverish dreams of a scholar, who, from intense application to his studies, 
 is visited, as by the night-mare, with a continual recurrence of postulates unattended by 
 a single conclusion. 
 
 (4) AIATPIBAI dicuntur Philosophorum congressus ac disputationes, quae Plut. 
 Ziarpiftal irepl Xoyovr,. Item locus, in quo ciarpifiovai irepl rl, AlATPIBH dicitur. 
 Sic leg. Strab. 'E<CEt ofiv icEiKvvvro 01 tc tg>v itpiuv oikoi, kcu Ti\aro>vog xai \Lvd6£,ov 
 <)ictTpifiai. " Ostendebantur ergo ibi sacerdotum aedes, ac domicilia in quibus Eu- 
 doxus et Plato egcrant." Strabon. Geog. lib. xvii. torn. II. p. 1143. Ed. Oxon. 
 
 VOL. III. Q 
 
114 
 
 EGYPT. 
 
 CHAP. IV. 
 
 History of 
 the Obelisk. 
 
 a Newton held their disputations may be pointed out among 
 the mouldering edifices of Oxford and of Cambridge. That 
 other monuments, equally entitled to consideration, may 
 possibly exist around this pillar, concealed only by a thin 
 covering of soil, can hardly be doubted ; and these, succeeding 
 travellers may bring to light. The antiquities observed by 
 Pococke are probably among the number. Yet, if this alone 
 continue to mark*the situation of Heliopolis, the evidence it 
 affords, when added to other proofs, will be sufficient to 
 identify the locality of the city. Indeed, when it is considered 
 that Heliopolis was altogether a deserted city so long ago as 
 the time of Strabo ', and that the Romans carried from Egypt 
 so many of its antient monuments, it is surprising that this 
 obelisk, stupendous as it is, remains in its original position. 
 Among several trophies of this description, which were 
 removed to Italy, Strabo mentions two obelisks that were 
 carried to Rome from the ruins of Heliopolis 2 . According 
 to Pliny, the first monuments of this kind that were raised 
 in Egypt were placed within this city 5 ; and the elevation 
 assigned by him to each of the four obelisks erected here 
 by Sochis, so nearly corresponds with the measure of the 
 one which now remains, that, making allowance for its 
 
 pedestal, 
 
 (1) Ylavtprjiuor rj irokt<; — " Omnino urbs deserta est." Strah. Geog. lib. xvii. torn. II. 
 p. 1142. Ed. Oxon. ISO?. 
 
 (2) T £lv ?vo teal els 'Pufirfv iKOfMiffdtjcrav, 01 //>/ KEKatcu/uitvot teKsuc. " Quorum duo 
 Romam delati sunt, non omnino corrupti." Ibid. 
 
 (3) " Primus omnium id instituit Mitres, qui in Solis urbe regnabat, somnio jussus : 
 et hoc ipsum inscription est in eo : etenim sculpturae illae effigiesque, quas videmus, 
 EgyptijE sunt literje. Postea et alii regum in supra dicta urbe." Plinii Hist. 
 Nat. lib. xxxvi. c. 8. torn. III. p. 481. L.Bat. 1635. 
 
E O Y P T. 
 
 115 
 
 pedestal, its height would be the same 4 . On this account, chap. iv. 
 Pococke", and Shaw 6 , consider it to be one of the four 
 thus mentioned by Pliny. Diodorus relates 7 , that two 
 other obelisks were erected at Heliopolis by Sesostris ; but 
 each of these was one hundred and twenty cubits in height, 
 ar.d eight in breadth ; an elevation, therefore, much too 
 ccnsiderable to correspond with the present appearance of 
 this pillar. 
 
 After leaving this place, the author was so much 
 exhausted by fatigue, that he returned to Cairo, across 
 the sandy plain of the desert which lies east of the city 
 and extends all the way from the Nile to the Red 
 Sea. Mr. Cripps, accompanied by Mr. Hammer, and by 
 Mr. Hamilton, then secretary of our Ambassador at Con- 
 stantinople, continued their journey as far as the Pilgrim s 
 Lake, whence the canal is supposed to have extended to the 
 Red Sea; and returned afterwards by the route which the 
 author had taken. They found, at the lake, the remains of a 
 very large Caravanserai, and discerned the traces of a canal, 
 bearing thence towards the south-east, in the direction 
 of Suez. But the most curious objects noticed in this part 
 of the day's journey were presented to our whole party 
 where we least expected to find any thing remarkable; 
 
 namely, 
 
 (4) That is to say, 48 cubits ; and admitting the Roman cubit to equal ] 8 inches, 
 the whole height of the obelisk would be 72 feet. Pococke found the height of that 
 part of the obelisk which is above the surface of the soil to equal 6'7 feet, measuring it 
 by a quadrant. Shaw took its elevation " by the proportion of shadows," and made it 
 only sixty-four feet ; thereby allowing eight feet for the pedestal. Pococke's men- 
 suration allows ov\y jive. 
 
 (5) Descript. of the East, vol.1, p. 23. Lond. 1743. 
 
 (6) Travels, p. 366. Lond. 1757. 
 
 (7) Diod. Sic. Biblioth. lib. i. p. 38. Hanov. 1604. 
 

 '■' ■ i'X-"*. ■ *fr A i<J. &itf* i-~K, 
 
 m :j'±»*iyx 
 
 -■•'--•-■-■--'■ 
 
 116 
 
 CHAP. IV. 
 
 Minerals of 
 tbe Arabian 
 Desert. 
 
 Petrifactions. 
 
 Doubtful 
 Origin of 
 Egyptian 
 Jasper. 
 
 E G Y F T. 
 
 namely, in the mineral productions of the desert itself. A 
 beautiful and well-known variety of jasper, commonly 
 called Egyptian Pebble, is found in such abundance, among 
 masses of the most curious mineralized wood, upon the 
 surface of the sands, over all the district eastward of Grand 
 Cairo, even to the borders of the Red Sea, that specimens 
 might be obtained in sufficient abundance to serve as ballast 
 for a vessel bound from Suez to England. The author had 
 collected almost enough to load a camel before he arrived at 
 the walls of the city ; but when the rest of the party returned, 
 they brought with them a more considerable burden. Among 
 these were large blocks of petrified palm-tree, of which 
 Mr. Cripps had collected a very great variety. They found 
 these masses lying in detached fragments among the loose 
 sand, wholly disengaged from any other stratum, and scat- 
 tered over the surface of the desert. In the same manner, 
 but more frequently, appeared the large pebbles of Egyptian 
 jasper, being almost always of a flattened ovate shape. This 
 mineral is too well known to require a more particular 
 description ; but who can explain its origin ? The received 
 opinion, and that which daily experience confirms, respecting 
 siliceous concretions in general, is this, that they have been 
 deposited, after a stalactical process, in the fissures and ca- 
 vities left by air in substances of anterior formation. Admit- 
 ting, therefore, that every one of these Egyptian pebbles or.ee 
 occupied such cavities, in strata now reduced to a pulverized 
 state and become the sand of the desert, what idea can be 
 formed of the antiquity of this kind of jasper? Unlike 
 other flinty substances, it seems almost incapable of decom- 
 position by exposure to the atmosphere ; having, as an exterior 
 
 crust. 
 
EGYPT. 
 
 crust, a thin investiture of a reddish colour, which differs 
 in appearance only from the nature of the stone itself; 
 the chemical analysis being precisely the same. Masses of 
 pure silex, and some chalcedonies containing almost as 
 much alumine as the Egyptian jasper, when thus exposed to 
 the continued action of air and moisture, gradually decom- 
 pose, and assume the white colour common to the matter of 
 silex when in a state of extreme division. But these 
 pebbles, although constantly exposed to the nightly dews 
 of a country where water falls during the night as 
 abundantly as heavy rain, and to the powerful rays of a 
 burning sun during the day, have sustained little or no 
 alteration. They have also another very remarkable cha- 
 racter. Although they be destitute of that whitish surface 
 which is common to every siliceous body long acted upon 
 by the atmosphere, they are always characterized by a lighter 
 colour towards the center of each pebble ; and this is some- 
 times white. They vary in their size, from that of a hen's 
 egg to the egg of an ostrich; but are rarely larger, and 
 always appear more or less flattened, so as to exhibit 
 a superior and an inferior elliptical surface upon each 
 specimen. The masses of mineralized or petrified wood 
 had no regularity of shape, except that parisitical form 
 which the mineral, thus modified, had derived from the 
 vegetable whose fibres it had penetrated when in a fluid 
 state. It is evident, therefore, that these pebbles do not 
 owe their spheroidal shape to the effect of any previous 
 attrition in water; because the masses of mineralized wood, 
 possessing a degree of hardness inferior to the jasper, and 
 being associated with it, would also have undergone a 
 
 ^ similar 
 
 
.BBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBB BBBB BB BBWWBB WB W 
 
 ■■•-•■ 
 
 118 
 
 CHAP. IV. 
 
 
 Dates and 
 
 Corn. 
 
 EGYPT. 
 
 similar change. Pococke, and, more recently, that intel- 
 ligent traveller Browne, noticed these appearances in the 
 deserts ; the first on the Arabian, and the last on the Libyan 
 side of the Nile 1 .' Pococke seems to have observed the 
 examples he alludes to, upon the same spot where we 
 found them, or very near to it, for they occurred in the 
 first part of his journey from Grand Cairo to Suez 2 . Shaw 
 mentions, also, his having observed instances of the same kind, 
 on the isthmus between Cairo and Suez; and the fabulous 
 accounts of the famous Ras Sem, or petrified village in the 
 Cyrenaica, are supposed by him to have derived their origin 
 from similar phenomena 5 . Shaw notices a method by 
 which the petrified palm-tree may be distinguished from 
 any other mineralized wood. He says 4 , the fibres, as in the 
 living plant, " do not run straight and parallel, as in other 
 trees; but are for the most part oblique, or diverging from 
 one another, in an angle of about ten degrees." 
 
 In the gardens and cultivated grounds near the Nile, 
 the inhabitants were now beginning (August 22) to collect 
 their dates ; but the corn was still out in some places. 
 The mercury in the thermometer, at noon this day, when 
 observed in the desert east of Heliopolis, did not stand 
 higher than 87° of Fahrenheit. The heat in England has 
 
 been 
 
 (1) Travels in Africa, from the year 1792 to 1798, by W.G. Browne. 
 
 (2) " I observed in the road many stones that looked like petrified wood 
 
 I saw one piece that seemed to have been a large body of a tree." Descripl, of the 
 East, vol.l.p.lZl. Lond. 1743. 
 
 (3) See Shaw's account of the petrified village, or city, at Ras Sem, in the province 
 of Dasha, in the kingdom of Trifoly. Travels, p. 155. Lond. 17&7- 
 
 (4) Ibid. p. 161. 
 
GRAND CAIRO, 
 
 119 
 
 been sometimes almost equal to this in the month of 
 September. 
 
 The facility with which the Arabs run up and down 
 the date-trees, at first sight surprises a stranger ; but when 
 the attempt is made, nothing can be easier. A series 
 of cavities in the bark of those trees, as if purposely exca- 
 vated to admit the hands and feet, render the ascent, and 
 descent, as practicable as upon the steps of a ladder. We 
 frequently climbed to the top of the tallest palm-trees by 
 means of this natural staircase. 
 
 In the evening after our arrival, some of our party went to 
 see an exhibition of the Almehs, or Dancing women, at the 
 house of a lady of some distinction, and where it was believed 
 this curious remnant of antient Egyptian ceremonies might 
 be unattended with those violations of decorum by which 
 they are generally characterized. This however was not the 
 case. The dance was, as usual, destitute of grace, activity, 
 or decency. It consists wholly of gestures, calculated to 
 express, in the most gross and revolting manner, the inter- 
 course of the sexes. In any part of Europe, even if it were 
 tolerated, it would be thought a degrading and wretched 
 performance ; yet the ladies of Cairo, accustomed to the in- 
 troduction of these women upon festival days, regard the 
 exercise of the Almehs with amusement, and even with 
 applause. If we may judge from the representations upon 
 Grecian vases, the female Bacchanals of antient Greece 
 exhibited in their dances a much more animated and more 
 graceful appearance : yet the manner of dancing practised 
 by the Almehs, however offensive in the eyes of civilized 
 nations, is the most antient. Hence the observation of 
 
 Cicero, 
 
 CHAP. IV. 
 
 Almehs. 
 

 GRAND CAIRO. 
 
 Cicero ', "Nemo saltat sobrius, nisi forte insanit :" and if 
 the history of this exercise be traced to its origin, it will be 
 found to have nearly the same character ail over the world. 
 In the anger of Moses at the dancing of the Israelites'; in 
 the reproach cast upon David, by Michal the daughter of 
 Saul, for his conduct when dancing before the ark 5 ; in the 
 gratification afforded to Herod by the dance of Salome 4 ; 
 we may perceive what were the characteristics of primaeval 
 dances : and if curiosity should lead any one to inquire what 
 sort of dancing is found among modern nations, where the 
 exercise has not been refined by civilization, his attention 
 may be directed to the Tarantello of Italy, the Fandango of 
 Spain, the Barina of Russia, the Calenda of Africa, and 
 the Timorodec of Otaheite. Egypt, where no lapse of time 
 seems to have effected change, where the constancy of 
 natural phenomena appears to have been always accom- 
 panied with the same uniformity of manners and customs, 
 Egypt preserves its pristine attachment to a licentious dance ; 
 and exhibits that dance as it was beheld, above three 
 thousand years ago, in the annual procession to Bubastus, 
 when the female votaries of Diana distinguished themselves 
 in the cities through- which they passed by indecency and 
 dancing 5 . Considered therefore with reference to the moral 
 character and habits of the people, as well as to their antient 
 history, this practice of the Almehs may be entitled to some 
 
 notice. 
 
 (1) Orat. pro Muraena. 
 
 (2) Exod. xxxii. 19. 
 
 (3) 2 Samuel vi. 20. 
 
 (4) Matth. xiv. Mark vi. Joseph. Antiq. Jud. lib. xviii. c. 2. 
 
 (5) Herodot. Euterpe, c. 60. ] 
 
GRAND CAIRO. 
 
 notice. Indeed, the part they sustain in the scale of society in 
 Egypt is so considerable, and the partiality shewn to them so 
 inveterate \ that it is impossible to give a faithful account of 
 the country without some allusion to these women. They 
 wear upon their fingers little bells, like small cymbals, 
 which they use as the Italians and Spaniards do their cas- 
 tagnettes. They have also tambours of different kinds. The 
 form of one of these seems to have been derived from that of 
 the common pumpkin, which is frequent among the vege- 
 tables of Egypt ; for, although the tambour is made of 
 wood, it has exactly the appearance of half a large pump- 
 kin, scooped, with a skin bound over it. The Arabs use 
 hollow pumpkins, when dried, as bottles to contain water : 
 these becoming hard, are very durable, and may have preceded 
 the use of a hollow hemisphere of wood, in the manufacture 
 of a tambour. The dances of the Almehs are accompanied 
 by vocal as well as by instrumental music ; if that may be 
 
 termed 
 
 121 
 
 CHAP. IV. 
 
 (5) " // nest point defete sans dies ; point defestin dont dies ne /assent I'ornement. 
 
 Les Alme sont appellees dans tous les Harem .... Les Alme assistent aux 
 
 ceremonie de marriage, et marchent devant la mariee en jouant des instrumens. Elles 
 Jigurent aussi dans les enterremens, et accompagnent le convoi en chantant des airs 
 funebres. Elles poussent des gemissemens," kc. Savary, Lett, sur VEoypte, torn. I. 
 pp. 150, 152, 154. Paris, 1785. Strangers who reside for some time in Cairo, however 
 disgusted by the exhibition of the Almehs at first, gradually adopt the taste of the 
 native inhabitants. Of this we find an instance in Niebuhr's Travels. " However 
 much disposed to receive entertainment, they did not please us at first ; their vocal and 
 instrumental music we thought horrible ; and their persons appeared disgustingly ugly, 
 with their yellow hands, spotted faces, absurd ornaments, and hair larded with stinking 
 pomatum. But by degrees we learned to endure them, and, for want of better, began 
 to fancy some of them pretty, to imagine their voices agreeable, their movements 
 graceful, though indecent, and their music not absolutely intolerable." Travels in 
 Arabia, vol. I. p. 140. Edinb. 1792. 
 
 vol. in. r 
 
^S9Hn 
 
 V2 C 2 
 
 GRAND CAIRO. 
 
 CHAP. IV. 
 
 Of the Alleluia 
 and Cry of 
 
 Lamentation. 
 
 termed vocal, which consists of a continual recurrence of 
 the same shrill sounds, caused by trilling the tongue against 
 the roof of the mouth, without the utterance of any 
 distinct words. Yet this singular mode of expressing joy is 
 all that constitutes the Alleluia of the Antients. When 
 Lord Hutchinson first entered Cairo, after the capture of 
 the city, he was met by a number of women who greeted 
 him with Alleluias : they accompanied him through the 
 streets, clapping their hands, and making this extraordinary 
 noise, in a loud and shrill tone. It seems to be a constant 
 repetition of the same syllable, al ; uttered in this manner, 
 Alalalalalalalalal, with the utmost rapidity, and without 
 interruption or pause of any kind. The person who is 
 able to continue this kind of scream for the longest time, 
 without drawing breath, is supposed to be the best per- 
 former. The same sort of singing is practised bv the 
 Almehs at funerals, with this difference : the Alleluia, or 
 cry of joy, consists in a repetition of , the syllable al ; and 
 that which is used to denote grief, is formed by a similar 
 repetition of the syllable ul, or el, constituting the lono- 
 protracted elelelelelu, or ululation 1 . The tone of voice con- 
 tinues the same through both of these ; the Alleluia, and 
 the Ululation: but there seemed to be this distinction 
 in the manner of delivering the sounds ; that in the former 
 
 it 
 
 (l) In the Prometheus Vinctus of iEschylus, Io utters this cry of lamentation 
 'YLXtXtXiXtXiv , which the Scholiast denominates Op/VwcSfc lirid>iityfia. See Pau'w's 
 jEschylus, torn. I. p. 88, S77. Hag. Com, 1745. Stanley, Blomficld, &c. 
 
PYRAMIDS OF DJIZA. 
 
 123 
 
 it was a tremulous note ascending; in the latter, the 
 same note descending in continual cadences. However, it 
 is exceedingly difficult, as perhaps the reader has already 
 perceived, to convey, or to obtain, ideas of musical sounds 
 by means of a mere verbal description. 
 
 Upon the twenty-third of August we set out for the 
 Pyramids, the inundation enabling us to approach within 
 less than a mile of the larger pyramid, in our djerm. 
 Messrs. Hammer and Hamilton accompanied, us. We 
 arrived at Djiza by day-break, and called upon some 
 English officers who wished to join our party upon this 
 occasion. From Djiza, our approach to the Pyramids was 
 through a swampy country, by means of a narrow canal, 
 which however was deep enough ; and we arrived without 
 any obstacle, at nine o'clock, at the bottom of a sandy slope, 
 leading up to the principal pyramid. Some Bedouin Arabs, 
 who had assembled to receive us upon our landing, were much 
 amused by the eagerness excited in our whole party, to prove 
 who should first set his foot upon the summit of this artificial 
 mountain. As we drew near its base, the effect of its pro- 
 digious magnitude, and the amazement caused in viewing 
 the enormous masses used in its construction, affected 
 every one of us ; but it was an impression of awe and fear, 
 rather than of pleasure. In the observations of travellers who 
 had recently preceded us, we had heard the Pyramids described 
 as huge objects which gave no satisfaction to the spectator, 
 on account of their barbarous shape, and formal appearance : 
 yet to us it appeared hardly possible, that persons sus- 
 ceptible of any feeling of sublimity could behold them 
 
 unmoved. 
 
 CH\P. IV. 
 
 Voyage to the 
 Pyramids. p 
 
 Appearance 
 presented by 
 the principal 
 Pyramid. 
 
124 
 
 CHAP. IV. 
 
 PYRAMIDS OF DJIZA. 
 
 unmoved. With what amazement did we survey the vast 
 surface that was presented to us, when we arrived at this 
 stupendous monument, which seemed to reach the clouds ! 
 Here and there appeared some Arab guides upon the 
 immense masses above us, like so many pigmies, waiting to 
 shew the way up to the summit. Now and then we thought 
 we heard voices, and listened ; but it was the wind, in 
 powerful gusts, sweeping the immense ranges of stone. 
 Already some of our party had begun the ascent, and were 
 pausing at the tremendous depth which they saw below. 
 One of our military companions, after having surmounted 
 the most difficult part of the undertaking, became giddy 
 in consequence of looking down from the elevation he had 
 attained ; and being compelled to abandon the project, he 
 hired an Arab to assist him in effecting his descent. The 
 rest of us, more accustomed to the business of climbing 
 heights, with many a halt for respiration, and many an 
 exclamation of wonder, pursued our way towards the sum- 
 mit. The mode of ascent has been frequently described; 
 and yet, from the questions which are often proposed to 
 travellers, it does not appear to be generally understood. 
 The reader may imagine himself to be upon a staircase, 
 every step of which, to a man of middle stature, is 
 nearly breast high 1 ; and the breadth of each step is 
 
 equal 
 
 (l) " The stones, wherewith the Pyramids are built, are from five to thirty feet 
 long (Herodotus makes none of these stones less than thirty feet)-, and from three to four 
 feet high." Shaw's Travels, p. 367. Lond.1757. 
 
PYRAMIDS OF DJIZA. 
 
 125 
 
 eoual to its height : consequently, the footing is secure ; ^hap.iv. 
 and although a retrospect, in going up, be sometimes 
 fearful to persons unaccustomed to look down from any 
 considerable elevation, yet there is little danger of falling. 
 In some places, indeed, where the stones are decayed, 
 caution may be required ; and an Arab guide is always 
 necessary, to avoid a total interruption; but, upon the 
 whole, the means of ascent are such that almost every 
 one may accomplish it 2 . Our progress was impeded' by 
 other causes. We carried with us a few instruments ; 
 such as, our boat- compass, a thermometer, a telescope, 
 &c. ; these could not be trusted in the hands of the Arabs, 
 and they were liable to be broken every instant. At 
 length we reached the topmost tier, to the great delight and 
 satisfaction of all the party. Here we found a platform, 
 
 thirty- 
 
 (2) Upon this account, when we reached the top of the pyramid, we sent an Arab 
 with a short note to the officer who had abandoned the undertaking ; urging him to 
 renew the attempt. After some time, the messenger returned, but without our com- 
 panion. The author, hearing this, went down to him, and found him in the entrance 
 to the pyramid, sitting with some Arabs in the shade afforded by the large projecting 
 masses of stone ; and, having with some difficulty prevailed upon him to renew the 
 attempt, succeeded in conducting him to the top. He expressed himself unwilling to 
 return without having gratified his curiosity by a view from the summit ; but confessed 
 that the effect produced upon his mind, by the stupendous sight around him, was 
 rather painful than pleasing, and had rendered him wholly unfit for the exertion it 
 required. It is to this circumstance that allusion was before made (See Chap. II. p. 45); 
 and it confirms the truth of Mr. Burke's observations, upon the impressions to which 
 men are liable, who, without the smallest personal danger, are exposed to the contem- 
 plation of objects exceedingly vast in their dimensions. Mr. Burke describes the 
 impression produced by the sublime as bordering upon a sensation of pain ; illustrating 
 this by reference to a person standing in perfect security beneath a precipice, and 
 looking up towards its summit. (See Philosophical Enquiry into the Origin of our Ideas 
 »f the Sublime, &c. by Edmund Burke. Sect. 27. Part 3. p. 237, Wc Lond. 1782. 
 
SUMP 
 
 
 126 
 
 CHAP. IV. 
 
 PYRAMIDS OF DJIZA. 
 
 thirty-two feet square ; consisting of nine large stones, each 
 of which might weigh about a ton ; although they be much 
 inferior in size to some of the stones used in the construction 
 of this pyramid. Travellers of all ages, and of various nations, 
 have here inscribed their names. Some are written in Greek ; 
 many in French ; a few in Arabic ; one or two in English ; and 
 others in Latin. We were as desirous as our predecessors 1 
 to leave a memorial of our arrival ; it seemed to be a tribute 
 of thankfulness, due for the success of our undertaking; 
 and presently every one of our party was seen busied in 
 adding the inscription of his name 2 . 
 
 Upon this area, which looks like a point when seen 
 from Cairo, or from the Nile, it is extraordinary 
 that none of those numerous hermits fixed their 
 abode, who retired to the tops of columns, and to almost 
 inaccessible solitudes upon the pinnacles of the highest 
 rocks. It offers a much more convenient and secure 
 retreat than was selected by an ascetic who pitched his 
 residence upon the architrave of a temple in the vicinity 
 of Athens. The heat, according to Fahrenheit's thermome- 
 ter, at the time of our coming, did not exceed 8 1° ; and the 
 same temperature continued during the time we remained, 
 a strong wind blowing from the north-west. The view 
 from this eminence amply fulfilled our expectations ; nor do 
 
 the 
 
 (1) " Apres que nous eumes grave nos noms sur le sommet de la pyramide, nous 
 descendimes," &c. Savary Lett, sur V Egyp'te, torn. I. p. 188. Par, 1/85. 
 
 (2) In order to prove how commodious a station this place affords, it may be men- 
 tioned that the author was enabled to write upon the spot a letter to a friend in England. 
 
Summit. 
 
 PYRAMIDS OF DJIZA. YZJ 
 
 the accounts which have been given of it, as it appears at this chap, iv. 
 season of the year, exaggerate the novelty and grandeur of the objects seen 
 
 from the 
 
 sight. All the region towards Cairo and the Delta resembled a 
 sea, covered with innumerable islands. Forests of palm-trees 
 were seen standing in the water; the inundation spreading 
 over the land where they stood, so as to give them an appear- 
 ance of growing in the flood. To the north, as far as the eye 
 could reach, nothing could be discerned, but a watery sur- 
 face thus diversified by plantations and by villages. To 
 the south we saw the Pyramids of Saccara ; and, upon the 
 east of these, smaller monuments of the same kind, nearer 
 to the Nile. An appearance of ruins might indeed be 
 traced the whole way from the Pyramids of Djiza to those 
 of Saccara ; as if they had been once connected, so as to 
 constitute one vast coemetery. Beyond the Pyramids of 
 Saccara we could perceive the distant mountains of the 
 Said ; and upon an eminence near the Libyan side of 
 the Nile appeared a monastery of considerable size. To- 
 wards the west and south-west, the eye ranged over the 
 great Libyan Desert, extending to the utmost verge of the 
 horizon, without a single object to interrupt the dreary 
 horror of the landscape, except dark floating spots, caused 
 by the shadows of passing clouds upon the sand. 
 
 Upon the south-east side is the gigantic statue of the 
 Sphinx, the most colossal piece of sculpture which emains 
 of all the works executed by the Antients. Th „ French 
 have ^uncovered all the pedestal of this statue, and all 
 the cumbent or leonine parts of the figure; these were 
 before entirely concealed by sand. Instead, however, of 
 
 answering 
 
mhHNmI mm 
 
 ■■■ >#«*&*? ■■■■■■■■ 
 
 ■MMBI ■ 
 
 128 PYRAMIDS OF DJIZA. 
 
 chap. iv. answering the expectations raised concerning the work 
 upon which it was supposed to rest, the pedestal proves 
 to be a wretched substructure of brick- work, and small 
 pieces of stone, put together like the most insignificant piece 
 of modern masonry, and wholly out of character, both with 
 respect to the prodigious labour bestowed upon the statue 
 itself, and the gigantic appearance of the surrounding objects. 
 Beyond the Sphinx we distinctly discerned, amidst the 
 sandy waste, the remains and vestiges of a magnificent 
 building ; perhaps the Serape'um. A sort of chequered work 
 appeared in the middle of many of the stones belonging 
 to this ruined edifice. It is unnoticed by every author who 
 has written upon the Pyramids. Indeed, the observation of 
 Geoffroy, as given in a Rapport made to the Institute of 
 Egypt, during the residence of the French at Cairo ', is very 
 just ; that all preceding travellers have attended only to the 
 principal objects in their visits of the Pyramids. They 
 have disregarded a number of other remains, less entire, 
 and more diminutive, but calculated to throw conside- 
 rable light upon the history of those antiquities which here 
 occupy such a surprising extent. Strabo, whose observations 
 were certainly made upon the spot, as will hereafter be 
 proved, has given, in his account of Memphis, a description of 
 the situation of the Serape'um, pointedly applicable to this 
 position of it; indeed it seems almost identified by his remark. 
 
 He 
 
 (l) " Rapport a" rinstitut sur les recherches h faire dans l'emplacement de l'ancienne 
 Memphis, et dans toute l'etendue des ses sepultures." Vby. Courier de I'Egypte, 
 No. 104. p. 3. Au Kaire, de I'Imprimerie Nationale. 
 
PYRAMIDS OF DJIZA. 
 
 He says it stood in a place so sandy, that hills of sand were 
 heaped there by the winds; and mentions the remains of 
 Sphinxes, as marking the place where it stood 2 . A writer 
 of somewhat later date, the author of the Sibylline Verses, 
 which are believed to be a composition of the second century, 
 may rather allude to the Serapeum at Memphis, than to 
 the temple at Alexandria, by the situation he assigns to 
 Serapis . 
 
 Immediately beneath our view, upon the eastern and 
 western side, we saw so many tombs, that we were 
 unable to count them; some being half buried in the 
 sand, others rising considerably above it. All these are 
 of an oblong form, with. sides sloping, like the roofs of 
 European houses. A plan of their situation and appear- 
 ance is given in Pococke's Travels 4 . The second pyramid, 
 standing to the south-west, has the remains of a covering 
 near its vertex, as of a plating of stone which had once 
 invested all its four sides. Some persons, deceived by the 
 external hue of this covering, have believed it to be 
 of marble ; but its white appearance is owing to a 
 partial decomposition, affecting the surface only. Not 
 a single fragment of marble' can be found anywhere 
 
 near 
 
 129 
 
 CHAP. IV. 
 
 (2) "Eort Se rat ^tpdireiov hv dfi/nuhi totu otyodpa, waff vr dvt/xuv Qlvac dfifiuv 
 owpevtodai, d<f uv al ofyiyyiz- k. t. \. " Est etiam Serapium, in loco valde arenoso, adeo 
 ut arenae colles a ventis exaggerentur: ibi vidimus Sphinges," &c. Strab. Geog. lib.xv'u. 
 p. 1145. Ed. Oxon. 
 
 (3) Kai av lipan, \16u1g eiriKeipievo. " Tuque Serapi sedens in saxis." Sibyllina 
 Oracula, lib. v. ad Jin. 
 
 (4) Description of the East, vol.1. Plate xvi. p. 41. Lond. 1743. 
 
 (5) Marble was not used for buildings in very antient times. " It does not appear," 
 
 vol. in. s "y s 
 
*•.*--. »^b p »-».» »;>..<;• .-»,>,r »-'*.,»-'*.--■ .'.^.j ■ :•.>.-: /-t^^t-Jn.i-J'.v^r.' 
 
 
 130 
 
 CHAP. IV. 
 
 Limestone 
 used in con- 
 structing the 
 greater Pyra- 
 mid. 
 
 PYRAMIDS OF DJIZA. 
 
 near this pyramid. It is surrounded by a paved court, 
 having walls on the outside, and places as for doors, or 
 portals, in the walls ; also an advanced work, or portico. 
 A third pyramid, of much smaller dimensions than the 
 second, appears beyond the Sphinx, to the south-west; 
 and there are three others, one of which is nearly buried 
 in sand, between the large pyramid and this statue, to 
 the south-east 1 . 
 
 Having thus surveyed the principal objects, as they 
 appeared from the summit of the greater pyramid, we 
 proceeded to the examination of the substances which 
 compose its exterior surface. 
 
 The stones of the platform upon the top, as well as 
 most of the others used in constructing the decreasing ranges 
 from the base upwards, are of soft limestone ; a little harder, 
 and more compact, than what some of our English masons 
 vulgarly call chinch; whereof King's College Chapel <xt 
 Cambridge, and great part of Ely Cathedral, is built. It is 
 of a greyish white colour ; and has this remarkable property, 
 that when broken by a smart blow with a hammer, it exhales 
 
 the 
 
 says Shaw, " that marble was used by the Grecian artists, either in sculpture or building, 
 before the 15th Olympiad, B.C. 720. Daedalus's statues of Hercules and Venus 
 were of wood ; of which, or of rough stone, were likewise their idols and temples, till 
 that time. The antient Temple of Delphi was built about the 65th Olympiad, B.C. 
 520, or 513 years after the Temple of Solomon." See Shaw's Trav. p. 368. Note 5. 
 Lond. 1757. 
 
 (1) In mentioning these particulars, the author may possibly repeat what other 
 travellers have said before, without being conscious of so doing : indeed, it is hardly 
 possible to avoid repetition, upon a subject which has been discussed by thousands, 
 although the utmost vigilance be used. 
 
PYRAMIDS OF DJIZA. 
 
 the fetid odour common to the dark limestone of the Dead 
 Sea, and of many other places ; owing to the disengagement 
 of a gaseous sulphureted hydrogen. This character is 
 very uncommon in white limestone, although it may be 
 frequently observed in the darker varieties. It is now very 
 generally admitted, that the stones, of which the Pyramids 
 consist, are of the same nature as the calcareous rock 
 whereon they stand, and that this was cut away in order 
 to form them : Herodotus says they were brought from 
 the Arabian side of the Nile 4 . Another more compact 
 variety of limestone is found in detached masses at the base 
 of these structures, exactly as it is described by Strabo ; 
 seeming to consist entirely of mineralized exuvice, derived 
 from some animal now unknown. We did not observe this 
 variety among the constituents of the Pyramids themselves, 
 but in loose fragments upon the sand 3 . The forms of the 
 petrifaction are lenticular. We noticed an extraneous fossil 
 of the same nature in the Crimea, which has also been 
 described by Pallas 4 . Strabo's description of this substance 
 corresponds, in so striking a manner, with its present ap- 
 pearance, that his account of it may be noticed as affording 
 internal evidence of his visit to the spot. " Among the 
 
 wonders, 
 
 131 
 
 CHAP. IV. 
 
 (2) Euterpe, c. 8. 
 
 (3) The author has since been informed that it has been observed among the 
 stones of which the principal pyramid is built. 
 
 (4) It has received the appellation of Lapis Nummularius, from the resemblance of 
 these lenticular forms to small coins. See the First Part of these Travels, Chap, XX. 
 p.5lQ. Second Edition. 
 
HHhHH I^HBNKB^flHRfli 
 
 132 
 
 CHAP. IV. 
 
 Extraneous 
 Fossil de- 
 scribed by 
 Strabo. 
 
 PYRAMIDS OF DJIZA. 
 
 wonders/' says he 1 , " which we saw at the Pyramids, there is 
 one which ought on no account to pass without notice. There 
 are heaps of stones, lying among the ruins before the 
 Pyramids, in which are found little petrifactions, in form 
 and size exactly resembling the natural appearance of 
 lentils. The tradition is, that these lentils are the petrified 
 remains of the food given to the workmen." Notwith- 
 standing the throng of travellers, particularly of late years, 
 who have resorted to the Pyramids, almost all of whom 
 have borne away some memorial of their visit to the place, 
 not a single specimen of this very curious variety of lime- 
 stone has yet been observed in any collection of minerals, 
 public or private 4 . Shaw mentions the mortar used in the 
 construction of t*he Pyramids 3 ; although a very erroneous 
 notion be still prevalent, that the most antient buildings were 
 erected without the use of cement. A reference to this kind 
 of test has been frequently made, with a view to ascertain 
 the age of antient architecture. All that can be asserted, 
 however, upon this subject, with any degree of certainty, 
 is, that if the most antient architecture of Greece sometimes 
 
 exhibit 
 
 (1) ''Ev Se ti tuv opaQivruv v<$> r\\iuv iv raig Uvpa/uiai irapacofav ovk afyffv 
 irapaKiiTEltv. 'Ek yap rrjc Xari/V^c ovpoi rivs<; irpo tuv Tlvpa/ulcuv tceivTai' iv rov- 
 tois cP evptoKtrat \ptjyp,ara ical rvirto ical p.tytdei <[>aicoti<i>j' ivionj t)f, ical u>; dv wTiap.a 
 otov TfpiiXtTriffTuv viroTpcyti. tyaol c)' dTToXcdudfjvat Xct^ava rfjg tuv ipya^ojxevup 
 Tpocpiji. Stralon. Geog. lib.wn. p. 1146. Ed. Oxon. 
 
 (2) Greaves was almost disposed to doubt the truth of Strabo's description, because 
 he did not observe these petrifactions. " Were not Strabo a writer of much gravity, 
 I should suspect these petrified graines." Pyramidog. p. l\g. Lond, 1646. 
 
 (3) Travels in the Levant, p. 368. Lond. 17 57. 
 
PYRAMIDS OF DJIZA. 
 
 123 
 
 exhibit examples of masonry without mortar, that of Egypt ^hap.iv . 
 is very differently characterized. As we descended from the 
 summit, we found mortar in all the seams of the different 
 layers upon the outside of the pyramid ; but no such 
 appearance could be discerned in the more perfect masonry 
 of the interior. Of this mortar we detached and brought 
 away several specimens. It is of a coarse kind ; and con- 
 tains minute fragments of terra cotta. Grobert says it does 
 not differ from the mortar now in use 4 . Shaw believed it 
 to consist of sand, wood ashes, and lime*. 
 
 The French had been very assiduous in their researches Labours of 
 
 the French 
 
 among these buildings. They even attempted to open the Army. 
 smallest of the three principal Pyramids ; and having 
 effected a very considerable chasm in one of its sides, 
 have left this mark behind them, as an everlasting testi- 
 mony of their curiosity and zeal. The landing of our 
 army in Egypt put a stop to their labour. Had it 
 not been for this circumstance, the interior of that 
 mysterious monument would probably be now submitted 
 to the inquiry which has long been an object among 
 literary men. 
 
 We w r ere employed for a considerable time in a very 
 useless manner, by endeavouring to measure the height of 
 the greater pyramid. This we endeavoured to effect, by 
 extending a small cord from the summit to the base, 
 along the angles formed by the inclination of its planes ; 
 
 * and 
 
 (4) See Denon's Voyage, as published by Peltier, torn. II. p. 80. Append. Land. 1802. 
 
 (5) See Shaw's Travel*, p. 368. also p. 200. Lond. 1757. 
 

 ' ■ ■' I ' 
 
 »&» 
 
 ■ HBB BUS BBB 
 
 134 
 
 PYRAMIDS OF D J I Z A. 
 
 chap, iv. an( i then measuring the base as accurately as possible, 
 together with the angle of inclination subtended by the 
 sides of the pyramid. The result, however, as it disagreed 
 with any account hitherto published, did not satisfy us\ 
 It is a curious circumstance, that all accounts of its per- 
 pendicular height differ from each other. Some French 
 1 engineers measured successively all the different ranges of 
 stone, from the base to the summit. According to their 
 observations, the height of this pyramid equals four hundred 
 and forty-eight French feet'. 
 
 We now proposed to enter this pyramid : and as an 
 inquiry into the origin and antiquity of these buildings will 
 be reserved for a subsequent consideration, (after a careful 
 examination of the Pyramids of Saccdra, as well as of those 
 of Dj'iza,) a few brief remarks, containing little else than 
 a mere description of objects, as they appeared to us, are alL 
 that will be added to this Chapter. 
 
 As we ascended the sandy slope that extends from 
 the mouth of the pyramid, on each side, towards the 
 angles at the base, we observed that the Arabs had con- 
 siderably increased in number since our arrival, and were 
 very clamorous. One of them, while we were measuring 
 
 the 
 
 (1) " Although these immense masses had been within our view for the preceding 
 three days, and we gradually approached them in the boat, on our arrival we were 
 more astonished than ever : the prodigious stones which are piled one upon another 
 in regular courses, and joined together with cement, are continued to such an exceeding 
 height, that some persons on the top of the great pyramid appeared to us immediately 
 under it, as if they were birds." Squire s MS. Journal. 
 
 (2) Descript. des Pyratti. de Gkize, par J. Grolert. See Peltier's Edit, of Voyage 
 en Egypte par Denon, append, torn. II. p. 62. Lond. 1802. 
 
PYRAMIDS OF DJIZA. 
 
 135 
 
 the pyramid, had stolen the boat-compass given to us by 
 Captain Clarke ; an irretrievable loss in such a situation. 
 We offered ten times its value to the Sheik who accom- 
 panied us, but the thief had disappeared; besides, it was 
 impossible to make an Arab sensible of the sort of instru- 
 ment for whose recovery the reward was proposed. The 
 JBecouin, who had stolen it, no doubt considered it to be 
 a tox of magic or of divination, whereby infidels w^ere 
 guiled to the knowledge of hidden treasure; in search of 
 wh:ch they always believed us to be engaged. They had 
 the same opinion of the thermometer which they saw us 
 carry to the summit. In many parts of Turkey, this last 
 was believed to be an instrument for ascertaining distances 
 during a journey. 
 
 Having collected our party upon a sort of platform 
 before the entrance of the passage leading to the interior, 
 and lighted a number of tapers, we all descended into 
 its dark mouth. The impression made upon every one 
 of us, in viewing the entrance, was this ; that no 
 set of men whatever could thus have opened a pas- 
 sage, by uncovering precisely the part of the pyramid 
 where the entrance was concealed, unless they had been 
 previously acquainted with its situation; and for these 
 reasons: First, because its position is almost in the 
 centre of one of its planes, instead of being at the 
 base. Secondly, that not a trace appears of those dila- 
 pidations which must have been the result of any search 
 for a passage to the interior ; such as now distinguish the 
 
 labours 
 
 CHAP. IV. 
 
 Theft com- 
 mitted by 
 an Arab. 
 
 Visit to the 
 Interior of the 
 larger Pyra- 
 mid. 
 
■-■-■■■-.• 
 
 136 
 
 CHAP. IV. 
 
 PYRAMIDS OF DJIZA. 
 
 labours of the French upon the smaller pyramid, which they 
 attempted to open. The persons who undertook the work, 
 actually opened the pyramid in the only point, over* all 
 its vast surface, where, from the appearance of the stones 
 inclined to each other above the mouth of the passage, 
 any admission to the interior seems to have been ori- 
 ginally intended. So marvellously concealed as this was, 
 are we to credit the legendary story given to us from 
 an Arabian writer, who, discoursing of the Wonders of 
 Egypt 1 , attributed the opening of this pyramid to Almamon, 
 a Caliph of Babylon, about nine hundred and fifty years 
 since ? A single passage of Strabo overturns its credit in an 
 instant ; as the same entrance was evidently known to him, 
 above eight centuries before the existence of the said Caliph. 
 He describes not only the exact position of the mouth of 
 the pyramid, but even the nature of the passage leading to 
 the ©ifcij, or Soros, in such a manner, that it is impossible 
 to obtain, in fewer words, a more accurate description 9 . It 
 
 seems 
 
 (1) G. Almec. Hist. Arab, ex Edit. Erp. See Greaves's Pyramidographia, pag. 44. 
 Lond. 1646. Maillet had a similar notion: " Ce fut done sans doute sous les 
 Princes Mahometans, et par le Calife Mahmout, qui regnoit a Bagdad, et qui 
 mourut l'an de l'Egyre 205, ainsi que le rapportent les auteurs Arabes, que cette 
 impiete fut commise." Description de VEgypte, torn. I. p. 3 1 9. 1740. 
 
 (2) "'Evft <T t'v v\pei fxtoar, true ruv ifktvpuv \lQov i^atpeffi/Liov' dpdivroc ce <rvpiv\ 
 iarX tTKoXtd pe^pi rfji drJKrfc. " In media fere laterum altitudine, lapis exemtilis est 1 
 eoque sublato obliqua fistula usque ad loculum." Stral. Geog. lib. xvii. p. 1145. 
 Ed. Oxon. 
 
 The Oxford Editor of Strabo, in commenting upon the words vvpivl, earl 
 
 ck6\i d 
 

 Entrance to il.r PRINCIPAL PYRAMID of DJI'/.A, 
 /ii'/i/ /Jetton 
 
 /•„/.;,. i <;,,,,,/ x it. /),,,,:.< . '//,/,„/ London 
 
. iwiiii mm® -mm mm 
 
 ■■ 
 
PYRAMIDS OF DJIZA. 
 
 seems also true, that this opening had been made before 
 the time of Herodotus, although his testimony be less de- 
 cisive. He speaks only of subterraneous chambers 3 ; but it 
 were impossible to know any thing of their existence, unless 
 the pyramid had first been entered^ Hence it is evident, 
 that a passage to the interior had been open from the ear- 
 liest times in which any account was given of this pyramid ; 
 and perhaps it never was so completely closed, but that with 
 a little difficulty an access might be effected. Proceeding 
 down this passage, (which may be compared to a chimney 
 about a yard wide, inclined, as Greaves affirms 4 , by an angle 
 of twenty-six degrees to the platform at the entrance,) 
 we presently arrived at a very large mass of granite ; this 
 seems placed on purpose to choke up the passage : but a way 
 has been made round it, by which we were enabled to 
 ascend into a second channel, sloping, in a contrary direction, 
 towards the mouth of the first. This is what Greaves calls 
 the first gallery"; and his description is so exceedingly minute, 
 both as to the admeasurements and other circumstances 
 belonging to these channels, that it were a useless waste of 
 the reader's time to repeat them here. Having aseended 
 along this channel, to the distance of one hundred and ten 
 
 feet, 
 
 137 
 
 CHAP. IV. 
 
 trcoXid iii\pt rrjs drjtcris, justly observes (Fid. Not. 1"J. ibid.) the coincidence 
 between Strabo's description of the entrance, and that given by Greaves and 
 Le Bruyn. 
 
 (3) Herodot. Euterpe, c. 125. 
 
 (4) Pyramidographia, p. 85. Lond. \6AQ. 
 
 (5) Ibid. p. 8(3. 
 
 VOL. III. T 
 

 138 
 
 PYRAMIDS OF DJ1ZA. 
 
 ' CHAP1Vj ^ eet? we came to a horizontal passage, leading to a chamber 
 with an angular roof, in the interior of the pyramid. In 
 this passage we found, upon our right hand, the mysterious 
 
 observation at well, which has been so often mentioned. Pliny makes the 
 
 the Well. 
 
 depth of it equal to one hundred and twenty-nine feet ; but 
 Greaves, in sounding it with a line, found the plummet rest 
 at the depth of twenty feet. We were able to ascertain the 
 cause of failure in Greaves's observation, and in those of 
 almost all others who have attempted to measure the depth of 
 this well. The mouth of it is barely large enough to admit 
 the passage of a man's body ; but, as this may be effected, it 
 is to be regretted that the French, during all their researches 
 here, did not adopt some plan for the effectual examination 
 of a place likely to throw considerable light upon the nature of 
 the pyramid, and the foundation upon which it stands. This 
 would require more time than travellers usually can spare, and 
 more apparatus than they can carry with them. In the first 
 place, it would be necessary to fasten lighted tapers at the 
 end of a long cord, to precede the person descending, as a pre- 
 caution whereby the quality of the air below may be proved, 
 and those fatal effects prevented which often attend an 
 improvident descent into wells, and subterraneous chambers 
 of every description. Many hands, too, would be required 
 above, to manage and sustain the ropes by which any ad- 
 venturer, during the experiment, must remain suspended. 
 ' The greatest danger to be apprehended would consist in the 
 hazard of an exposure to mephitic air ; but due precaution, 
 in a careful attention to the tapers lowered first, might 
 obviate this. We threw down some stones, and observed 
 
 that 
 
PYRAMIDS OF DJIZA. 
 
 that they rested at about the depth which Greaves has men- 
 tioned ; but being at length provided with a stone nearly as 
 large as the mouth of the well, and about fifty pounds 
 in weight, we let this fall, listening attentively to the result 
 from the spot where the other stones rested : we were 
 agreeably surprised by hearing, after a length of time which 
 must have equalled some seconds, a loud and distinct report, 
 seeming to come from a spacious subterraneous apartment, 
 accompanied by a splashing noise, as if the stone had been 
 broken into pieces, and had fallen into a reservoir of water 
 at an amazing depth. Thus does experience always tend to 
 confirm the accounts left us by the Antients ; for this exactly 
 answers to the description given by Pliny of this well '; and, 
 :n all probability, the depth of it does not much differ from 
 hat which he mentions, of eighty-six cubits, or one hundred 
 ind twenty- nine feet, making the cubit equal to eighteen 
 nches. Pliny says that the water of the Nile was believed to 
 :ommunicate with this well. The inundation of the river was 
 low nearly at its height. Can it be supposed, that, by 
 some hitherto unobserved and secret channels, it is thus con- 
 veyed to the bottom of this well ? It seems more probable, 
 that the water is nothing more than the usual result of an 
 ?xcavation in a stratum of limestone, carried on to the depth at 
 which water naturally lies in other wells of the same country ; 
 as, for example* in the pit called Joseph's Well, in the Citadel 
 of Grand Cairo. The hill on which this pyramid stands is 
 
 elevated 
 
 139 
 
 CHAP. IV. 
 
 (1) " In Pyramide maxima est intus puteus octoginta sex cubitorum, flumen ill© 
 admissum arbitrantur." Plin. Hist, Nat. lib. xxxvi. c. 12. L. Bat. 1635. 
 

 
 ' M^^H -v*** w*T ■ 
 
 y4Vitf*?«8S!S^^ 
 
 140 
 
 PYRAMIDS OF DJTZA. 
 
 CHAP. IV. 
 
 Examination 
 of some infe- 
 rior Channels. 
 
 elevated about a hundred feet above the level of the plain 
 country through which the Nile flows ; and, allowing for 
 the height of the mouth of the well above the base of the 
 pyramid, we shall have nearly the distance required for a 
 shaft sunk below the bed of the river. 
 
 Some of the officers belonging to our party, while we were 
 occupied in examining the well, had discovered two or three 
 low ducts, or channels, bearing off from this passage to the 
 east and west, (like those intersecting veins called by miners 
 cross -courses,) and which they believed to have been over- 
 looked by former travellers. Certainly there is no accurate 
 notice of them in the descriptions given by Sandys, Greaves, 
 Vansleb, Pococke, Shaw, Niebuhr, Maillet, Lucas, Norden, 
 Savary, or any other author that we have consulted. Per- 
 haps the French engineers employed under Menou in the 
 examination of the Pyramids, by removing the stones which 
 had closed the mouths of these channels, have laid them 
 open. We undertook a most laborious and difficult task, in 
 penetrating to the extremities of these ducts. The entrance 
 being too low to admit a person upon his hands and knees, it 
 was necessary to force a passage by lying flat upon our faces, 
 gradually insinuating our bodies, by efforts with our arms 
 and feet against the sides. The difficulty, too, was increased 
 by the necessity of bearing lighted tapers in our hands, 
 which were liable to be extinguished at every instant, in the 
 efforts made to advance. As we continued to struggle in this 
 manner, one after another, fearful of being at last jammed 
 between the stones, or suffocated by heat and want of air, a 
 number of bats, alarmed by our intrusion, endeavoured to 
 
 make 
 
PYRAMIDS OF DJIZA. 
 
 141 
 
 make their escape. This we would gladly have permitted, but 
 it was not easily effected. Flying against our hands and 
 faces, they presently extinguished some of our tapers, and 
 were with difficulty suffered to pass by us. After all our 
 trouble, we observed little worth notice at the end of any of 
 these cavities. In one, whicli the author examined, he 
 found, at the extremity of the channel, a small square apart- 
 ment, barely large enough to allow of his sitting upright; 
 the floor of which was covered with loose stones, promiscu- 
 ously heaped, as by persons who had succeeded in clearing 
 the passage leading thither. All these trifling channels and 
 chambers are perhaps nothing more than so many vacant 
 spaces, necessary in carrying on the work during the con- 
 struction of this vast pile, which the workmen neglected to 
 fill as the building proceeded; like the cavities behind 
 the metopes in the Parthenon at Athens, which, although 
 usually filled in Grecian temples, were, as we find in certain 
 instances, left void. 
 
 After once more regaining the passage whence these ducts 
 diverge, we examined the chamber at the end of it, mentioned 
 by all who have described the interior of this building. Its 
 roof is angular ; that is to say, it is formed by the inclination 
 of large masses of stone leaning towards each other, like 
 the appearance presented by those masses which are above 
 the entrance to the pyramid. Then quitting the passage 
 altogether, we climbed the slippery and difficult ascent which 
 leads to what is called the principal chamber. The work- 
 manship, from its perfection, and its immense propor- 
 tions, is truly astonishing. All about the spectator, as he 
 
 proceeds, 
 
 CHAP. IV. 
 
 Chamber of • 
 the Sepulchre. 
 
mmm ■ wmmm ^^■■^M m^mm 
 
 PYRAMIDS OF DJIZA. 
 
 proceeds, is full of majesty, and mystery, and wonder. The 
 materials of this gallery are said by Greaves to consist of 
 white and polished marble i. This we did not observe. 
 Pococke also mentions pilasters in an anticloset before the 
 principal chamber 2 . Both which imply circumstances in- 
 consistent with received opinions in the history of antient 
 architecture. The pilaster is believed to be of modern date; 
 and marble, according to some writers, was not used by archi- 
 tects before the fifteenth Olympiad 3 . Presently we entered 
 that " glorious roome," as it is justly called by Greaves 4 , 
 where, " as within some consecrated oratory, Art may seem 
 to have contended with Nature." It stands " in the very 
 heart and centre of the pyramid, equidistant from all its 
 sides, and almost in the midst between the basis and the top. 
 The floor, the sides, the roof of it, are all made of vast 
 and exquisite "tables of Thebaick marble." By Greaves's 
 Thebaick marble is to be understood that most beautiful 
 variety of granite which Linnaeus distinguished by the 
 epithet of durus rubescens, called by the Italians 5 Granito 
 rosso, composed essentially of feldspar, quartz, and mica. 
 
 It 
 
 (1) Pyramidographia, p. 90. Lond. \646. 
 
 (2) Descript. of the East, vol. I. p. 45. Lond. 1743. 
 
 (3) Before Christ, 720. See a former Note in this Chapter. It should be said, 
 however, that Shaw, who makes this remark, (Trav. p. 368, Note 5. Lond. 1757,) 
 applies it to the Grecian, and not to Egyptian artists. There are Doric pilasters, of 
 the age of Augustus, in the remains of Mcecenass Villa near Rome ; -and the 
 immense capitals discovered among the ruins of a temple at Girgenti evidently 
 belonged to pilasters of much earlier date. 
 
 (4) Pyramidographia, p. Q5. 
 
 (5) See Forbes's Travels, p. 226. Lond. 1776. 
 
PYRAMIDS OF DJIZA. 143 
 
 It is often called Oriental granite, and sometimes Egyptian v^^JI^ 
 granite, but it differs in no respect from European gra- 
 nite, except that the red feldspar enters more largely as 
 a constituent into the mass than is usual in the gra- 
 nite of Europe 6 . So exquisitely are the masses of this 
 granite fitted to each other upon the sides of this cham- 
 ber, that, having no cement between them, it is really 
 impossible to force the blade of a knife within the 
 joints. This has been often related before ; but we actually 
 tried the experiment, and found it to be true. There are 
 only six ranges of stone from the floor to the roof, which 
 is twenty feet high ; and the length of the chamber is 
 about twelve yards. It is also about six yards wide. The 
 roof or cieling consists only of nine pieces, of stupendous 
 size and length, traversing the room from side to side, and 
 lying, like enormous beams, across the top. 
 
 Near the western side, stands the Soros, of the same TheSoros. 
 kind of granite as that which is used for the walls of the 
 chamber, and as exquisitely polished. It is distinguished 
 by no difference of form or dimensions from the common 
 appearance of the Soros, as it is often seen in Turkish 
 towns, when employed by the inhabitants to supply 
 the place of a cistern. It resembles, as Greaves has 
 remarked 8 , " two cubes, finely set together, and hollowed 
 within ; being cut smooth and plain," without sculpture or 
 
 engraving 
 
 (6) The author has seen granite of the same kind, and of equal beauty, in 
 fragments, upon the shores of the Hebrides j particularly at Icolmkill. 
 
 (7) See Pyramidog. p. 94. 
 
 (8) Ibid. p. 96. 
 
tOffKf* '•JfCTW: JI, " f rT Jp? •?CW;' 
 
 Mm [H P^ 
 
 9 
 
 144 
 
 CHAP. IV. 
 
 Demolition of 
 the Soros at- 
 tempted. 
 
 PYRAMIDS OF DJIZA. 
 
 engraving of any kind. Its length on the outside is seven 
 feet three inches and a half; its depth three feet three 
 inches and three quarters; and it is the same in breadth. 
 Its position is north and south. 
 
 This beautiful relique was entire when our troops 
 were landed in Egypt. Even the French had refused to 
 violate a monument considered by travellers of every 
 age and nation as consecrated by its antiquity ; having 
 withstood the ravages of time above three thousand 
 years, and all the chances of sacrilege to which it was 
 exposed during that period from wanton indiscriminating 
 barbarity. It is therefore painful to relate, that it is now 
 no longer entire. The soldiers and sailors of our army and 
 navy having had frequent access to the interior of the 
 pyramid, carried with them sledge-hammers, to break off 
 pieces, as curiosities to be conveyed to England ; and began, 
 alas! the havoc of its demolition 1 . Had it not been for 
 the classical taste, and the laudable interference, of Colonel 
 now General Stewart, then commanding-officer in that 
 district, who threatened to make an example of any indivi- 
 dual, whether officer or private, who should disgrace his 
 country by thus waging hostility against History and the Arts, 
 not a particle of the So?*os would have remained. Yet, as 
 a proof of the difficulty which attended this worse than 
 Scythian ravage, the persons who thus left behind them a 
 
 sad 
 
 (1) During the same week in which this Chapter was printing, little pieces of 
 granite were shewn to the author, as " bits of King Pharaoh's Tomb " which were 
 taken from this sepulchre. 
 
PYRAMIDS OF DJIZA. 
 
 143 
 
 sad memorial of the British name, had only succeeded in chap, iv. 
 accomplishing a fracture near one of the angles. It was 
 thus disfigured when we arrived ; and every traveller of 
 taste will join in reprobating any future attempt to increase 
 the injury it has so lamentably sustained. 
 
 Having quitted this Pyramid, we amused ourselves by 
 a cursory s*urvey of the rest; concerning which we have 
 nothing to communicate that would not be a mere 
 repetition of what has been already related by a dozen 
 other writers. We then descended into some of the 
 smaller sepulchres. The walls within these were adorned 
 with hieroglyphics. In some instances, we noticed the 
 traces of antient painting, an art that seems to have been 
 almost co-eval with the human race. The most remark- 
 able instance of this kind was discovered by the author 
 in a situation where, of all others, it was least expected, — 
 upon the surface of the Sphinx. As we drew near to The sphinx. 
 view this prodigious colossus, a reddish hue was discernible 
 over the whole mass, quite inconsistent with the common 
 colour of the limestone used in building the Pyramids, and 
 of which the Sphinx itself is formed. This induced us to 
 examine more attentively the superficies of the statue: 
 and having succeeded in climbing beneath the right ear 
 of the figure, where the surface had never been broken, 
 nor in any degree decomposed by the action of the atmo- 
 sphere, we found, to our very great surprise, that the 
 whole had once been painted of a dingy red or blood 
 colour, like some of the stuccoed walls of the houses in Pom- 
 peii and Herculaneum. Upon this painted surface there was 
 
 vol. in. u also 
 
 Its surface 
 found to be 
 painted. 
 
►7h7* 
 
 !Wmmfm tifflmsmmmmmn 
 
 146 
 
 CHAP. IV. 
 
 Discovery of 
 an antient 
 Inscription. 
 
 PYRAMIDS OF DJIZA. 
 
 also an Inscription; but so concealed, by its situation 
 beneath the enormous ear of the Sphinx, and so out of the 
 reach of observers viewing the statue from below, that no 
 notice has yet been taken of it by any preceding traveller. 
 As to the age of this inscription, the reader must determine 
 for himself. The two first lines are Coptic ; the rest is 
 Arabic. The characters were of considerable size, and 
 they were inscribed in black paint upon the red surface 
 of the statue. The author bestowed all possible care and 
 attention in making the following copy of them, as a 
 facsimile. 
 
 H 4\ 
 
 e-^ c 
 
 
 Above 
 
PYRAMIDS OF DJ1ZA. 
 
 147 
 
 Above these, and closer under the ear, were written, very chap.iv. 
 conspicuously, these curious monograms, 
 
 r — r^*^ 
 a s 
 
 r — V 
 
 Statues. 
 
 probably also Arabic, but in their appearance somewhat 
 resembling the kind of writing preserved among the 
 Inscriptiones Sinaicce, as published by Rircher and by 
 Pococke 1 . According to Pococke, this was not engraven, 
 but painted, or stained, upon the rock where he saw it. 
 
 Whatsoever may be the age of these characters, the Custom ot 
 
 painting 
 
 specimen of painting exhibited by the superficies of antieut 
 the stone is of still higher antiquity; not merely 
 because the inscription appears upon the painted surface, 
 but from the resemblance which the style of colouring 
 bears to other examples which may be mentioned. 
 The statues of the Parthenon at Athens were originally 
 painted and gilded 2 ; and however contrary the practice 
 
 may 
 
 (1) See Plate LV. Inscript. 86. Descr. of the East, vol. I. p. \4Q. Lond. 1743. " The 
 Grreeks," says Pococke, " call this inscription Qeov ^dpaKra ypdjxfxara, " The words of 
 God engraved." The same inscription may be found also in Kircher's Prodromus Copticus. 
 
 (2) " Avant que ce marbre precieux eut ete nettoye, il conservoit des traces, non- 
 ■eulement de la couleur encaustique dont, suivant l'usage des Grecs, on enduisoit la 
 culpture, rmis encore d'une veritable peinture dont quelques parties etoient couvertes ; 
 isage qui tient aux procedes de l'enfance de l'art, dont il ne s'etoit pas encore debar- 
 asse. Le fond etoit bleu; les cheveux et quelques parties du corps etoient dore's." 
 Voy. Monumens Antiques inedits. Description d'un Bas-Relief du Parthenon, par 
 4. L. Millin. Traces of gilding are still to be perceived on the hair of the Venus de 
 Medicis. 
 
- 
 
 148 
 
 CHAP. IV. 
 
 PYRAMIDS OF DJIZA. 
 
 may seem to our notions of taste, a custom of painting 
 statues, and of gilding the hair of images representing 
 celestial beings, has continued, without intermission, 
 from the age of Pericles and the golden-haired Apollos of 
 Greece, down to the aera of those Italian artists who 
 filled our old English churches with alabaster monuments, 
 where, besides the painted effigies of our ancestors 1 , may be 
 seen the figures of angels, with gilded wings and gilded hair. 
 But these are subjects which, to a writer fond of pursuing 
 the mazes of antient history, offer such alluring devi- 
 ations from the main route, as might lead both him and 
 his reader into almost endless digression: the vestiges of 
 antient art, and the remains of antient customs, visible in 
 our daily walks and in every haunt of society, so frequently 
 suggest themselves to philosophical reflection, that, if due 
 attention were paid to them, whole volumes would be 
 inadequate to the dissertations that might be written. A few 
 observations only, selected from the pages of an author who 
 has expressed a similar observation ; and who, most learnedly 
 illustrating the arts of painting and writing among the 
 antient Egyptians 2 , has concentrated within a small compass 
 whatever might have been added upon these topics ; may 
 
 terminate this chapter. 
 
 "The 
 
 (1) A splendid monument of this kind, erected over the bodies of Lord Surrey the 
 
 Poet and his family, may be seen in Framlingham Church, Suffolk. Shakspeare has 
 
 finely availed himself of this practice in the image of Hermione {Winter s Tale) : 
 
 " Paul. O patience! 
 
 The statue is but newly fixt, the colour 's 
 Not dry. .*' 
 
 (2) Philosophical Dissertation on the Egyptians and Chinese, by De Pauw, vol. I. 
 pp. 187, 188, 189, 190, 202, 203. Lond. 1795. 
 
PYRAMIDS OF DJIZA. 
 
 149 
 
 " The number of things to be spoken of here will not chap. iv. 
 permit us to treat of each in particular ; for it is necessary Extract from 
 sometimes to neglect details, and confine ourselves to 
 essentials only, that a chapter may contain what might 
 otherwise require a whole book. The loss of the greater part 
 of the history of the Arts in Egypt is a circumstance truly 
 lamentable. All the wrecks now remaining form only a 
 mutilated body. * * * 
 
 " Pliny has fallen into an unpardonable contradiction, 
 when he maintains that the art of writing had been known 
 from all eternity 3 , and denies, at the same time, that the 
 Egyptians practised painting during six thousand years. 
 Plato finds no difficulty in believing it to have been known 
 to them for ten thousand years 4 . When Plato, in his 
 Dialogues, makes an anonymous interlocutor assert that ten 
 thousand years had elapsed since some pictures then seen in 
 Egypt were painted, we should observe, that colours, 
 applied in all their natural purity on the partitions of the 
 Theban grottoes, might really be capable of supporting so 
 long a period. The fewer mixtures are admitted in colours 
 termed native, and appertaining neither to the vegetable nor 
 animal kingdom, the less they are subject to change, where 
 the rays of the sun do not penetrate. This was the case in 
 
 the 
 
 (3) De Pauw is evidently here aiming at the introduction of his own sceptical notions 
 with respect to chronology. We are to understand Pliny's use of the word eternity only 
 as referring to a period antecedent to existing records, or those of the avrd^dovec : an 
 observation necessary to rescue many of the antient philosophers from the absurd 
 nations imputed to them. 
 
 (4) De Legibus, Dial. 2. 
 
S-Vi'vtf 
 
 
 
 PYRAMIDS OF DJIZA. 
 » 
 
 the excavations we have cited, where many tints could be 
 distinguisned, of a beautiful red, and of a particular blue. 
 Colours have remained until our day in some royal sepul- 
 chres of Biban-el-Moluk, which, in my opinion, have been 
 constructed before the Pyramids. The walls of great edi- 
 fices, when once coloured, remained so for many centuries ; 
 or rather, for ever. The Egyptians do not seem to have 
 used any particular procedure for making the colours and 
 gilding adhere to the wall or the bare rock, as some people 
 have supposed. Count Caylus says, that the manner of 
 laying them on, practised by the Egyptians, was not fa- 
 vourable '. Like all the Eastern artists, they employed only 
 virgin tints, and coloured rather than painted." 
 
 (l) Antiq. Egypt. Etrusc. &c. vol.1. 
 
uu&Od . I g of Salens* 
 
 CHAP. V. 
 
 PYRAMIDS OF SACCARA. 
 
 Illustrious Travellers who have visited the Pyramids — Audience of the 
 Vizier — Voyage to Saccdra — Nocturnal Festivities of an Arab 
 Village — Appearance of the Country to the South of Cairo - : - 
 Indigofera — Situation of Memphis — Tumulus seen among the 
 Pyramids — The most antient Sepulchres not pyramidal — Village 
 of Saccdra — Difference between the Pyramids of Saccdra and those of 
 Djiza — Descent into the Catacombs — Notion founded on a passage in 
 Herodotus — Evidence for the Horizontal Position of the Bodies — 
 Difficulty of ascertaining the truth — Repository of embalmed Birds — 
 Cause of their Interment — Hieroglyphic Tablet — Antelope — Anti- 
 quities found by the Arabs — Horses of the Country — Theft detected — 
 History of the Pyramids — Manner of the Investigation — Age of those 
 Structures — Their Sepulchral Origin — Possible Cause of the Violation 
 of the principal Pyramid — Historical Evidence concerning the 
 building of Pyramids in Egypt — Further view of the subject- — 
 Hermetic Stela: — Mexican Pyramids. 
 
 It is impossible to leave the Pyramids of Djiza without 
 some notice of the long list of Philosophers, Marshals, 
 
 Emperors, 
 
 chap. v. 
 
;>3M~i: -vi;^ 
 
 
 
 15 c 2 
 
 CHAP. V. 
 
 Illustrious 
 Travellers who 
 have visited 
 the Pyramids. 
 
 THE PYRAMIDS. 
 
 Emperors, and Princes, who, in so many ages, have been 
 brought to view the most wonderful of the works of 
 man. There has not been a conqueror pre-eminently 
 distinguished in the history of the world, from the days 
 of Cambyses down to the invasion of Napoleon Buona- 
 parte, who withheld the tribute of his admiration from 
 the Genius of the place. The vanity of Alexander the Great 
 was so piqued by the overwhelming impression of their 
 majesty, that nothing less than being ranked among the Gods 
 of Egypt could elevate him sufficiently above the pride of the 
 monarchs by whom they were erected. When Germanicus 
 had subdued the Egyptian empire, and seated "a Roman 
 praefect upon the splendid throne of the Ptolemies," being un- 
 mindful of repose or of triumph, the antiquities of the country 
 engaged all his attention 1 . The humblest pilgrim, pacing the 
 Libyan sands around them, while he is conscious that he walks 
 in the footsteps of so many mighty and renowned men, 
 imagines himself to be for an instant admitted into their 
 illustrious conclave. Persian satraps, Macedonian heroes, 
 Grecian bards, sages, and historians, Roman warriors, all of 
 every age, nation, and religion, have participated, in common 
 with him, the same feelings, and have trodden the same 
 ground. Every spot that he beholds, every stone on which 
 he rests his weary limbs, have witnessed the coming of men 
 who were the fathers of law, of literature, and of the arts. 
 
 Orpheus, 
 
 (1) " Caeterum Germanicus aliis quoque miraculis intenditanimum, quorum praecipua 
 fuere Memnonis saxea effigies, ubi radiis solis icta est, vocalem sonum reddens : dis- 
 jectasque inter et vix pervias arenas, instar montium eductae Pyramides, certamine et 
 opibus regum." Tacit. Annal. lib. ii. c. 6. torn. I. p. 308. Par. 1682. 
 
THE PYRAMIDS. 
 
 Orpheus, Musaeus, Homer, Lycurgus, Solon, Pythagoras, 
 Plato,. Plutarch, contributed by their presence to the dig- 
 nity of the place. Desolate and melancholy as the scene 
 appears, no traveller leaves it without regret, and many 
 a retrospect of objects which call to his mind such nume- 
 rous examples of wisdom, of bravery, and of virtue. 
 To this regret, on our part, was added the consciousness 
 that we had now reached the utmost limit of our travels in 
 this interesting country ; for, with the exception of a visit 
 to the Pyramids of Saccdra, our journey towards the south 
 was here terminated. We had now traversed about forty 
 degrees of latitude, and principally by land ; through coun- 
 tries, however, in which little of the refinements of civilized 
 nations had ever been experienced : and we returned from 
 Dj'iza to Cairo, to conclude our observations in Egypt, 
 previous to the rest of our travels in Greece. 
 
 The next day we all dined with Signor Rosetti, who sent 
 a messenger to the Sheik of the Bedouin Arabs at Saccara, 
 stating that we were desirous of seeing the Pyramids 
 and Catacombs of that place, and begging to be informed 
 on what day we might find guides and horses ready for us. 
 On the following evening, August the twenty-fifth, his 
 answer arrived. The Sheik sent two men of his tribe, one 
 to conduct us, and the other to return with our message, 
 fixing the time for our visit. The Arab who was to be our 
 conductor ran away, but we procured another who happened 
 to be then in Cairo. In all the great houses of this city, 
 the earthen vessels for containing water are perfumed. This 
 becomes quite a ceremony. They first put into the vase 
 
 vol. in. x some 
 
 153 
 
 CHAP. V. 
 

 154 
 
 CHAP. V. 
 
 Audience of 
 the Vizier. 
 
 GRAND CAIRO. 
 
 some mastic, and a substance called MaJcourgourivic, which is 
 brought from Upper Egypt. The name is written as it was 
 pronounced ; but perhaps it consists of more than one word. 
 They then clarify the water with almond-paste, cool it by 
 the evaporating jars, and thus it is made fit for drinking. 
 
 On the twenty- seventh we purchased every variety of 
 seed which we could obtain from the gardeners of Cairo. 
 After this we visited a manufactory of sabres, wishing to 
 learn the art by which the Mamaluke blades are ornamented 
 with a sort of clouded work. Sabres thus enamelled are said 
 to be damascened, from the city of Damascus, where this 
 w ork is carried on in the greatest perfection. We saw the 
 artificers use a red liquid for this purpose, which appeared 
 to be some powerful acid, from the caution they observed 
 in touching it; but they would not allow us to examine it. 
 
 We then paid our long-promised visit to the Vizier. 
 This venerable man had lived so much with our artillery 
 officers, that he entertained very sincere regard for them. 
 We made our appearance before him in company with Colonel 
 Holloway and Major Hope. He welcomed these officers as 
 if they had been his brothers. He had lost an eye when he 
 was young, in playing the game of Djirit. He regaled us 
 in the usual Oriental style; and conversed -cheerfully 
 upon the subject of his marches with our countrymen in 
 the Desert ; also of his own exploits in battle. He was 
 magnificently dressed, in robes of rich silk; and wore, 
 instead of a turban, a high purple cap; such as the 
 Grand Signior puts on upon public occasions. The pipe 
 which he used for smoking was valued at seven thousand 
 
 piastres; 
 
PYRAMIDS OF SACCARA. 
 
 155 
 
 e to 
 Saecara. 
 
 piastres; and his poignard was ornamented with the largest 
 emerald we had ever seen, being equal in size to a walnut. 
 He resided in a new and magnificent palace, the windows 
 of which were ornamented with beautifully stained glass. 
 His couch consisted of ebony, inlaid with mother of 
 pearl ; and a magnificent mirror, covered with a gauze 
 net, decorated his apartment. His attendants were more 
 numerous than is usual with other Pashas; but, in his 
 manners, there was neither the pride, the stateliness, nor 
 the affected pomp, which we had remarked in the Viceroys 
 of Cyprus, of Jerusalem, and of other places. 
 
 In the evening, at six o'clock, we again set out in our \ oyag 
 djerm, upon an excursion to the Pyramids of Saccdrd, 
 accompanied by Mr. Hammer and Dr. Whitman '. *We 
 arrived, about ten o'clock, in the village of Sheik Atman; 
 and were much gratified upon our landing by a fine Nocturnal 
 
 ,. n . , . , , . r_ i * , . . Festivities of 
 
 moon-light scene, in which two beautiful Arab girls were 
 performing a dance called Rack, beneath a grove of palm- 
 trees, to the music of a tambour and a pipe made of two 
 reeds which the Arabs call Zumana. A party of Arabs 
 was seated in a circle round them, as spectators. The 
 rest of the inhabitants were sleeping, either in the open 
 air beneath the trees, or collected in tents, pell-mell, 
 among asses, mules, and dogs. Some of their children 
 were running up and down the palm-trees, as if these 
 had been so many ladders, to gather bunches of ripe dates 
 for the circle round the dancers. The broad surface of 
 the Nile reflected the moon's image, and conduced to the 
 
 perfection 
 
 an Arab 
 Village. 
 
 (l) This gentleman has since published an Account of his Travels in Turkey. 
 

 
 ■■^■■H 
 
 156 
 
 CHAP. V. 
 
 Appearance of 
 the Country 
 to the South 
 of Cairo. 
 
 PYRAMIDS OF SACCARA. 
 
 perfection of this most beautiful spectacle. The Arabs 
 suffered us to walk among them, without being interrupted 
 in their amusement or their repose. Some of them brought 
 us fruit, and offered other refreshments. The women were 
 all prostitutes, and almost naked : they wore coral necklaces, 
 and large ivory bracelets. An Arab joined the dance, which 
 we had never seen any of the men do before : he began 
 by exhibiting a variety of attitudes with his drawn sabre ; 
 and then proceeded to express the tenderness of his passion 
 for the female dancer in a very ludicrous manner, squeaking 
 and howling like some wild animal. One of the Sheiks 
 who had received us upon our arrival went to a neighbouring 
 village, to procure some additional horses for the next 
 morning. The music and the dancing continued during the 
 whole of the night. Our boat was anchored opposite to the 
 farthest pyramid, towards the south ; Cairo being still in sight. 
 In the morning of August the twenty-eighth, at 
 five o'clock, as the sun was rising in great splendor 
 behind the mountainous ridge of Mokatam, we went 
 round the village, which consisted entirely of mud 
 huts. Near to these were several gardens, in which we 
 gathered radishes for our breakfast. We noticed also some 
 dwarf varieties of the Palm, which we had not before 
 observed, growing in clusters among the taller trees, and 
 bearing abundance of fruit, but hanging so low that it might 
 be reached by the hand. One variety was called Balack 
 Mahadt: the average height of this did not exceed ten or 
 twelve feet. Another bore the name of Balack Seaivee, which 
 
 grew 
 
 (l) Phoenix dactylifera. 
 
PYRAMIDS OF SACCARA. 
 
 157 
 
 CHAP. V. 
 
 grew somewhat taller. A female of uncommon beauty made 
 tar appearance out of one of the huts, without any veil ; 
 aid, to add to the rarity of such a sight, her complexion 
 was fair ; much more resembling that of a Circassian than 
 pf an Egyptian woman. The quantity of pigeons hovering 
 a^out these villages is quite astonishing. We also saw 
 fights of larks of a very large size. All the country, as 1 
 far as the eye extended, was so covered with water, that 
 no particular course of the Nile could be perceived : it was 
 more like a sea than a river. The Pyramids of Saccdra 
 appeared in the distant view, beyond a country rich in plan- 
 tations and full of villages : they are less regular in their 
 structure than those of Dj'iza. The Arabian side of the 
 Nile is not so fertile as the Libyan. Towards Mokatam, 
 the country below the heights seemed to be quite a desert. 
 Mount Mokatam is itself variously perforated by cavernous 
 excavations : these were either the habitations or the 
 sepulchres of the earliest settlers upon the eastern side 
 of the Nile. At a neighbouring village, called Etterfile, 
 two gun-boats, and one smaller vessel, were now building. 
 Near this village grew a great quantity of Indigofera, which ind,°ojera 
 the Arabs call Nile. Under a similar appellation it was 
 mentioned, at the close of the sixteenth century, as an 
 object of inquiry by Richard Hakluyt"; for at that time it 
 was not known in England what plant produced the Indigo 3 . 
 Instructions were therefore given, " to know if Anile, that 
 coloureth blew, be a natural commodity ; and, if it be - 
 
 compounded 
 
 (2) A. D. 1582. 
 
 (3) See Martyn's edition of Miller's Dictionary. Art. Iniigofera. 
 
vw»w "W* ■.*: 
 
 ^«S& ^^H • 
 
 
 158 
 
 CHAP. V. 
 
 Situation of 
 Memphis. 
 
 PYRAMIDS OF SACCARA. 
 
 compounded of an herbe, to send the seed or root, with 
 the order of sowing." It is remarkable that Nil, or Anil, 
 is the American name of the Ind'igo plant. The Portu- 
 guese have adopted their Anil, or Andeira, from the 
 American. In Chinese it is called Tien Laam, which 
 signifies sky blue. The Arabs, in Egypt, sow the seed of this 
 plant only once in seven years ; and they obtain two crops 
 from it in each year. They cut it green, when about two 
 feet in height: (they were cutting some at this time:) it is 
 then put into boiling water, and left in jars for several days : 
 after this it acquires the blue colour. The French had taught 
 them to boil the plant, and use the scum for a dye. 
 
 We saw two Arabs crossing the Nile, where it was at least 
 half a mile wide, by means of empty gourds, which they used 
 instead of bladders, with their clothes fastened upon their 
 heads. It was nine o'clock before we steered our djerrn into 
 a canal leading towards Saccara. We passed the village which 
 Savary believed to denote the situation of antient Memphis, 
 and concurred with him in his locality of the city 1 . His 
 description of the place, particularly of the Causeway and 
 the Lake, is very accurate. But the village is not: called 
 Menf, or Menph, as he pretends, but Memhee a Dashoo*. 
 The Lake at this time was, in great measure, become a part 
 of the general inundation. We sailed the whole way to the 
 Pyramids of Saccara, with the exception of about half a 
 mile, which it was necessary to ride over, to the Mummy Pits. 
 
 Just 
 
 (1) Pococke also places it near the same spot. 
 
 (2) This seems to have been Pococke's " El Menshieh Dashour." See Descr. of the 
 East, vol. I. p. 4Q, 
 
PYRAMIDS OF SACCARA. 159 
 
 Just beyond Menshee a Dashoo we were much struck CHAP - v - 
 by the appearance of a Tumulus, (standing to the south of a ?w&»I^a 
 large graduated pyramid,) which, instead of being pyra- Sv 
 midal, exhibits a less artificial and therefore a more 
 antient form of sepulchre, than any of the Pyramids. It 
 is a simple hemispherical mound. We saw afterwards 
 others of the same kind. 
 
 Comparing these appearances with that regularity of struc- The most 
 ture which characterizes the Pyramids of Djiza, and also with p" 1 '^ 5 »°t 
 another style of architecture observable at Saccara, where a 
 transition may be discerned between one and the other, (the 
 curved outline not having wholly disappeared, nor the recti- 
 linear form prevailing altogether,) we may establish a rule 
 for ascertaining different degrees of antiquity throughout 
 
 the 
 
^■■■■■1 $?gK 
 
 160 
 
 CHAP. V. 
 
 PYRAMIDS OF SACCARA. 
 
 the whole series of these monuments. The most antient lie 
 towards the south. Almost all the buildings of Saccara, of 
 whatever size or shape, whether hemispheroidal or pyramidal, 
 seem to be older than those of Djiza: and, as we proceed in 
 surveying them from the south towards the north, ending 
 with the principal pyramid of Djiza, we pass from the 
 primeval mound, through all its modifications, until we 
 arrive at the most artificial pyramidal heap ; something after 
 the manner represented by the following sketch. 
 
 Primeval Mound. 
 
 Pyramid of Sacc&ra. 
 
 Pyramid of Djiza. 
 
 The same rule will apply to similar monuments in America, 
 which have been held sacred among the inhabitants of that 
 great continent from the earliest periods of their history. 
 In fact, the Scythian Mound, the Tartar Tepe, the Teutonic 
 Barroiv, and the Celtic Cairn, do all of them preserve a mo- 
 numental form which was more antiently in use than that of 
 
 a Pyramid, 
 
161 
 
 CHAP. V. 
 
 PYRAMIDS OF SACCARA. 
 
 a Pyramid, because it is less artificial ; and a proof of its 
 alleged antiquity may be deduced from the mere cir- 
 cumstance of its association with the Pyramids of Egypt, 
 even if the testimony of Herodotus were less explicit 
 as to the remote period of its existence among northern 
 nations'. 
 
 We came to the"Wretched village of Saccdra. Near to this village of 
 place, towards the south, there is an antient causeway, com- 
 posed of stones twelve yards wide, leading up the short ascent 
 to the plain on which the Pyramids stand. Several of the 
 Arabs left their huts to accompany us. When we reached 
 the principal cluster of them, which is behind the village 
 towards the west, we were conducted to the mouth of one of 
 the Catacombs ; and prepared for a descent, as into the 
 mouth of a well, by means of a rope-ladder which we had 
 brought with us for that purpose. The sandy surface of 
 the soil was covered with a quantity of broken vessels of 
 terra cotta, pieces of human bones, sculls, bits of antient 
 glass, and heaps of ruins. 
 
 These Pyramids appear to be a continuation of the same 
 great ccemetery to which those of Djiza also belonged. They 
 extend four or five miles, both to the north and to the 
 south of the village of Saccara. Some of them are Difference 
 
 })t i t w ecu the 
 
 rounded at the top, and, as it was observed by Pococke *, Pyramids of 
 
 Saccara and 
 
 " do not look like pyramids, but more like hillocks cased those of Djiza. 
 with stone." One of these is graduated, like the principal 
 
 pyramid 
 
 (1) See the account given by Herodotus of the Scythian mode of sepulture, 
 Melpomene, : s 7 l - 
 
 (2) Descr. of the East, vol. I. p. 50. 
 
 VOL. III. Y 
 
vm> 
 
 162 
 
 CHAP. V. 
 
 Descent into 
 the Cata- 
 combs. 
 
 PYRAMIDS OF SACCARA. 
 
 pyramid of Dj'iza ; but with this difference, that the gra- 
 dations here are much larger, although the pyramid be 
 smaller. It consists only of six tiers or ranges of stone ; the 
 pyramid itself being an hundred and fifty feet in height'. 
 The ranges or steps are twenty- five feet high, and eleven 
 feet wide. The rest of these structures are so fully and 
 accurately described by Pococke, that little will be added 
 here to his description of them. There is one, built also 
 with steps, which he believed to be as large as the prin- 
 cipal pyramid of Dj'iza. The works at Sacca'ra, inde- 
 pendently of the different forms which characterize them, 
 do all appear to be older than those of Dj'iza ; the buildings 
 being more decayed, and the stones crumbling, as if they 
 were decomposed by longer exposure to the action of the 
 atmosphere. Four miles to the south of Saccara stands 
 a pyramid built of unburned bricks. This is in a very 
 mouldering state. The bricks contain shells, gravel, and 
 chopped straw: they are of the same nature as the un- 
 burned bricks in modern use in Egypt. Pococke concl tided, 
 from its present appearance, that this pyramid was built with 
 five gradations only 2 . It is of the same height as the other 
 graduated pyramid of six degrees. 
 
 Our rope-ladder was not more than fifteen feet in 
 length, and yet, when placed in the mouth of a catacomb 
 near the graduated pyramid, we found it reach low enough to 
 enable us to descend into the first row of chambers. We 
 entered a room containing scattered bones and fragments 
 
 of 
 
 (1) Descr. of the East, vol. II. p. 50. 
 
 (2) Ibid. p. 53. 
 
PYRAMIDS OF SACCARA. 
 
 163 
 
 of broken mummies: these, when entire, had evidently 
 been placed horizontally, upon a sort of shelf or tier of 
 st^ne, about breast high, formed in the natural rock, and 
 extended the whole length of this subterraneous apart- 
 ment. Beyond the first chamber were others on the same 
 level, exhibiting similar remains; and below these was 
 a series, extending, in like manner, beneath the upper 
 range. The smell in these catacombs was so exceedingly 
 offensive, that it speedily drove us up again*; although we 
 could not explain the cause, for it seemed very improbable 
 that it could originate in embalmed bodies deposited there 
 so many ages before. We saw enough, however, to be 
 convinced that an erroneous notion has been derived from 
 a passage in Herodotus concerning the mode of placing 
 mummies in these repositories*. It was impossible that the 
 dead could have been placed upright upon their feet, for 
 there was not sufficient space between the roof of the 
 cavern and the place where the bodies were laid. From a 
 former view of the Soros in the Dj'fza pyramid, and also from 
 the appearance here, it became evident that the position of 
 the corpses in Egyptian sepulchres was not vertical, but 
 horizontal. This may be one of those instances mentioned 
 by Pauw 3 , in which Herodotus (if the common notion of his 
 meaning be correct) was deceived by his interpreters ; not 
 
 having 
 
 chap. v. 
 
 Evidence for 
 the Horizon- 
 tal Position of 
 the Bodies. 
 
 (2) Kat k-arak-Xf/tffavrcc ovru, 6t)<ravpi£ouffi iy oiKtjfiarc drjKaiy, iffrdvrst opQov 
 irooc to~i\ov. " Inclusumque ita, reponunt in conclavi loculis talibus dicato, statuentes 
 rectum ad parietem." Herodot. Hist. lib. ii. c. 86. p. 143. Ed. Valcken. et Weaseling 
 Amst. 1763. 
 
 (3) Philos. Diss, on the Egyptians and Chinese, vol. II. p. 43. Lond. 1795. 
 
mmmm-: 
 
 Wxsffia^aja^ 
 
 - ■ ■ - • ■ 
 
 164 
 
 CHAP. V. 
 
 PYRAMIDS OF SACCARA. 
 
 having himself examined the interior of the sepulchral repo- 
 sitories of the country. However, any doubt of this kind, as 
 to the accuracy of an antient historian, should never be raised 
 without the utmost caution ' ; and nothing but the most 
 positive evidence, derived from actual observation, has in- 
 troduced one here. The testimony now given is, however, 
 confirmed by many other writers. Kircher has given an 
 engraved representation, made from a view of the Mummy 
 Crypts, by Burattinus ; delineated, as he says, with the ut- 
 most accuracy 2 , in which the bodies are all represented 
 cumbent, with their faces upwards. Denon's description 
 of the Cryptce to the north-east of Thebes is of the 
 same nature 3 . " At the bottom of the galleries, the 
 sarcophagi stood insulated, of a single block of gra- 
 nite each, of twelve feet in length and eight in width, 
 rounded at one end, squared at the other, like that of St. 
 Athanasius, in Alexandria." And again, in his long and 
 difficult search to discover " the manner in which a mummy 
 was placed in its sepulchre,' ' having ventured into cryptce 
 where the bodies had never been disturbed, he found 4 them 
 " placed upon the ground, and allowed as much space as 
 could contain them in regular order." Pococke, describing 
 the Catacombs of Saccara, speaks of H benches about two 
 feet above the passages," on which " he supposes 5 they laid 
 
 the 
 
 (1) See Note 1, p. 166. 
 
 (2) Vid. CEdip. ./Egypt, syntagma xiii. c. 4. torn. III. p. 400. Rom. 1654. 
 
 (3) Denon. Trav. in Egypt, vol. II. p. 174, Lond. 1803. 
 
 (4) Ibid. p. 226. 
 
 (5) Descr. of the East, vol. I. p. 54. Lond. 1743. 
 
PYRAMIDS OF SACCARA. 
 
 the mummies ;" but, being desirous of adopting even these 
 appearances to a notion of their upright posture, he adds 6 , 
 " probably the inferior persons were piled one upon an- 
 other, and the heads of the family set upright in the niches." 
 The suggestion is borrowed from Maillet, who mentions 
 " several niches," wherein the bodies " des maitres de la 
 famille" were placed 7 . All this is very easily said; and it 
 is all without proof. The fact is, that no traveller, as far 
 as we can learn, ever did succeed in observing the position 
 of a mummy within its crypt''. The Arabs, if they can 
 avoid it, will suffer no one to behold what the French 9 writers 
 call a virgin mummy. Denon says 10 , <c It was a particular 
 ivlnich they concealed with the utmost obstinacy" Maillet 
 
 mentions 
 
 (6) Descr. of the East, vol. I. p. 54. Lond. 1743. 
 
 (7) Descr. de l'Egypte, torn. II. p. 21. A la Haye, 1740. 
 
 (8) If any traveller could have succeeded in making observation to this effect, it 
 would have been Mr. W. Hamilton, during his travels in Upper Egypt. In reply to 
 the author's inquiry upon this subject, he says, " I never was in a situation to see 
 muimmies in a constructed catacomb, or crypt ; but a few miles above Philae, I assisted 
 at ithe opening of a common grave, full of mummies, lying upon their lacks : these were 
 covered with the common sand of the desert. The sculptures in the Egyptian temples, 
 whiich frequently represent mourners around a mummy, always place the latter in a 
 horizontal posture." The testimony of one of Mr. Hamilton's fellow travellers at 
 Saiccdra also confirms what has been said of the difficulty of making these observations. 
 " We did not see the mummies of human bodies : those pits which the Arabs ge- 
 nerally shew are filled up with sand, interspersed with bones, and not at all inter- 
 esting to examine. The places in which there are perfect mummies are covered over 
 \vit:h palm-branches and sand, with a view to conceal their situation. There is a sort of 
 mummy trade among the Arabs ; and you are much more likely to procure one at 
 Caii'ro, than at Saccara." Squire's MS. Journal. 
 
 (9) See Denon, 'vol. II. p. 224. Vansleb (Relation d'Egypte, p. 149. Par. 1667) 
 hass a different expression, " Un puits vierge." 
 
 (10) Travels in Egypt, Eng. Edit. p. 224. vol. II. Lond. 1803. 
 
POP*) «$>f£K : 4 
 
 ^C-!--a 
 
 WT 
 
 PYRAMIDS OF SACCARA. 
 
 mentions the same difficulty 1 . With regard to the different 
 attitudes assigned by Maillet and by Pococke to the bodies 
 of the rich and the poor in Egyptian sepulchres, it may 
 generally be remarked, that the more magnificent an 
 Egyptian tomb is found to be, the more striking is the 
 evidence it contains for the horizontal position of the body: 
 witness the Soros of the principal pyramid of Djiza, and 
 the Sarcophagi mentioned by Denon in the sepulchres of 
 Thebes 2 . 
 
 Upon the whole, therefore, as we cannot reconcile 
 existing facts with the common notion which has been 
 derived from the text of Herodotus, it is more reasonable to 
 admit that his meaning has been misunderstood, than that 
 the text itself involves an error ; that he alludes, in fact, to 
 the position of the mummy in the private dwellings of those 
 among the Egyptians who had no sepulchre for its re- 
 ception. In their private houses the Egyptians placed the 
 bodies upright. This we learn from Diodorus Siculus, who 
 says 3 , " Those who have not sepulchres built \ make a new 
 building in their own houses, and place the chest upright." 
 Silius Italicus alludes also to this standing posture 5 . 
 
 After our descent into these catacombs, we were taken 
 to other mummy pits ; but the smell in all of them was 
 
 offensive, 
 
 (1) Descr. de l'Egypte, torn. II. p. 22. A la Haye, 1740. 
 
 (2) Denon's Voyage en Egypte, torn. I. p. 236. Paris Edit. 
 
 (3) Diodor. Sic. lib. i. c. Q2. Artist. 1746. 
 
 (4) Krto-ac. Ibid. 
 
 (5) " jEgyptia tellus 
 
 Claudit odorato post funus stantiu busto 
 Corpora. — — — — " 
 
PYRAMIDS OF SACCARA. 
 
 167 
 
 CHAP. V. 
 
 offensive, and the appearances were merely repetitions of 
 what we had seen before. Every one of these places had 
 been opened, and ransacked, by the Arabs. We observed a 
 beautiful crystallization, in diverging fibres, of some white 
 substance, upon the wall of one of the chambers, perhaps 
 a fibrous carbonat of* soda ; but in our endeavours to remove 
 it, the specimen was destroyed : it broke immediately upon 
 the slightest touch. We were then conducted to the mouth 
 of one of those subterraneous repositories in which the 
 embalmed birds were deposited. Like the entrance to all 
 the other catacombs, this resembled that of a well. We 
 descended, as before, by our rope ladder, to the depth of 
 twenty feet; and here found a level, or horizontal duct, 
 along which we were compelled to creep upon our bellies, 
 to the distance of about sixty feet, when we came to a 
 central place, whence several passages diverged 6 . These 
 were almost choked by sand, by a number of broken jars, ^Ximed ° f 
 and by a quantity of swathing and of embalmed substances, Birds " 
 looking like so much tinder and charcoal dust, which had 
 been taken out of those jars. As we followed the intricate 
 
 windings 
 
 (6) " The well itself is about six feet square: the sand, and stones, and broken 
 p'Ottery, which are constantly falling, render the descent extremely inconvenient. At 
 tiie bottom of it is a small hole, which, by those who are at all corpulent, is passed with 
 v ery great difficulty 5 indeed, each time it is necessary to clear the sand from the hole, 
 which constantly fills up the entrance. Here, having taken off our coats, with candles 
 in our hands, our faces to the ground, our feet foremost, and an Arab pulling our legs 
 from within, we worked our way through a passage about twenty yards in length, until 
 we arrived at the place where the sacred birds are deposited. The whole is excavated out 
 of the solid rock, and of an inconceivable extent. We did not wander far from the 
 entrance, fearful of being lost in the labyrinth. To the right and left of the entrance 
 are passages, which, as you advance, branch off in various directions." Squire's MS. 
 Journal. 
 
BB bMbBBBBP 
 
 PYRAMIDS OF SACCARA. 
 
 windings of these channels, we came at last to a passage 
 ten feet in height, and six in width, where the whole space 
 was filled, from the floor to the roof, by the jars, in an 
 entire state, as they were originally deposited. These have 
 often been described. They were all lying horizontally, 
 tier upon tier, the covers being toward* the outside, after 
 the manner in which quart bottles are often placed in our 
 cellars. We took down several of them ; but as fast as we 
 removed one row, another appeared behind it : and, as we 
 were told by the Arabs, such is their prodigious number, 
 that, if hundreds were removed, the space behind them 
 would appear similarly filled up. The same appearance is 
 presented at the extremities of all these galleries, the 
 passages having been cleared only by the removal of the jars. 
 We opened several of them in the pit. For the most part, 
 the contents of all these vessels were the same ; but there 
 were some exceptions. Generally, after unfolding the linen 
 swathing, we found a bird, resembling the English curlew, 
 having a long beak, long legs, and white feathers tipped 
 with black. It is certainly the same bird which Bruce lias 
 described 1 , called by the Arabs, Abou Hannes*. In some 
 
 of 
 
 (1) See the plate and description of this bird in Bruce s Travels, vol. V. p. 172. 
 Edin. 1790. 
 
 (2) The only entire specimen of this bird, taken from its embalmed state, was 
 obtained from one of the Egyptian jars by Mr. John Pearson, Surgeon, of London ; 
 who, having carefully removed all the linen swathing, and every extraneous substance, 
 succeeded in the entire developement of the perfect animal. Mr. Pearson communicated 
 his observations upon the subject to the Royal Society, among whose Transactions they 
 were published ; accompanied by an engraved representation of the bird, as it appeared 
 after the covering was removed. — See a very interesting publication, entitled Histoire 
 Naturelle et Mythologique de /'Ibis j par Juees-Ce'sar Savigny, Membre de Vlnstitut 
 d'Egypte. 8vo. with Plates exquisitely drawn and coloured. Paris, 1805. 
 
PYRAMIDS OF SACCARA. 
 
 of these jars, however, instead of a bird, were found parts 
 of other animals, carefully embalmed, and wrapped in 
 linen ; as the head of a monkey, or of a cat, without the 
 entire body. Such appearances are rare. Pococke relates, 
 that, in one of the irregular apartments, he saw several 
 larger jars, which might be intended for dogs, or for other 
 animals : of these, says he, some have been found, but 
 they are now very rare 5 . We saw none of those larger jars : 
 they all appeared to be of equal size, about fourteen inches 
 in length, of a conical form, and made after the same manner, 
 of coarse earthenware. A luting fastened on the cover : this 
 luting has been described as mortar, but it seems rather to 
 have consisted of the mud of the Nile 4 . It required consi- 
 derable labour to move about a dozen of these jars with 
 us, in our passage back to the mouth of the repository ; 
 but we succeeded in rolling them before us, until we re- 
 gained the rope-ladder, when they were easily raised to the 
 surface, and afterwards sent to England, to be distributed 
 among our friends. Another obligation now remains :o be 
 fulfilled ; namely, that of endeavouring to account for the 
 singular deposit of these birds in the manner which has 
 been described. 
 
 A reverence for certain birds that destroy flies and 
 serpents seems common to the inhabitants of all countries. 
 
 In 
 
 (3) Description of the East, vol. I. p. 53. Lond. 1743. 
 
 (4) " The pottery itself, although three thousand years old, appears as new as if it 
 were of yesterday. We broke several of the pots, and found some very perfect birds. 
 We met with a wing of the Ibis, having the feathers still on the pinion : as soon, 
 however, as this was exposed to the air, the plumage fell to pieces, and was lost." 
 Squire's MS. Journal. . 
 
 VOL. III. Z 
 
 Cause of the 
 Interment of 
 the Ibis. 
 
mm 
 
 '-.ft ' J - i : . Mr I i** if- < ■ ■ >■ & I .V* 
 
 ■BHH^HOHBhS 
 
 170 PYRAMIDS OF SACCARA. 
 
 chap. v. In almost all parts of the world, it is considered as an 
 unpropitious omen to put to death the swallow or the 
 marten. The same respect has generally been paid to the 
 stork, the heron, and their different species. At this day, the 
 coming of these birds is hailed as a lucky presage over all 
 the north of Europe ; particularly in Denmark and in 
 Holland, where the nests of the stork maybe observed upon 
 the roofs of cottages and farm-houses, in almost every 
 village. It is observed by Pauw ', that the Turks, who do 
 not pretend to be idolaters, are as careful in preventing the 
 Ibis from being destroyed as the Greeks and Romans. It 
 would have been well if this writer had explained what par- 
 ticular bird he alluded to under this appellation ; because it is 
 believed that the bird antiently called Ibis is become very 
 rare in Turkey. The Egyptians, says Pauw 9 , instead of being 
 the inventors of a superstitious reverence for the stork and 
 the Ibis, brought this with them from ^Ethiopia ; together 
 with the worship of the cat, the weasel, the ichneumon, the 
 sparrow-hawk, the vulture, and the screech-owl ; a worship 
 founded on the utility of these animals. " It was absolutely 
 necessary," says he 3 , " to put them under the protection of 
 the law, otherwise the country would have been altogether 
 uninhabitable." The Mahometans, according to Shaw 4 , 
 
 have 
 
 (1) Philosophical Dissertations on the Egyptians and Chinese, vol, II. p. 100, 
 Lond. 1795. f 
 
 (2) Ibid. 
 
 (3) Ibid. 
 
 (4) Travels, p. 410. Lond. 1757. 
 
PYRAMIDS OF SACCARA. 
 
 have the stork 5 in the highest esteem and veneration: it is 
 as sacred anong them as the Ibis was among the Egyptians ; 
 and no less profane would that person be accounted, who 
 should attempt to kill, nay, even to hurt or to molest it 6 . We 
 are moreover told by Pliny, that the Egyptians invoked 
 the Ibis agiinst the approach of serpents 7 . In the earliest 
 ages of Egyptian history, the same regard was paid to the 
 Ibis, and for the same cause. Josephus mentions this bird 
 in the beginning of his Jewish Annals, as harmless to 
 all creatures, except to serpents. He relates that Moses, 
 leading an army into ^Ethiopia, made use of the Ibis to 
 destroy a swarm of serpents that infested his passage*. 
 Cicero alludes to this property in the Ibis 9 ; and Pliny 
 speaks of the reverence in which it was held. The 
 punishment in Thessaly for having occasioned the death 
 of one of these birds was equal to that for homicide 10 . 
 Thus we have the most ample testimony as to the veneration 
 
 in 
 
 (5) " Lekleh, or Legleg, is the name that is commonly used by the Arabian authors, 
 although Bel-arje prevails all over Barbary. Bochart (Hierog. lib. ii. cap. 29.) supposeth 
 it to be the same with the Hasida of the Scriptures." Ibid. Note 6. 
 
 (6) Travels, ibid. 
 
 (7) " Invocant et iEgyptii Ibes suas contra serpentium adventum." Plin. Hist. Nat. 
 cap. 28. torn. I. p. 530. L. Bat. 1635. 
 
 (8) Josephi Hist. Antiq. Jud. lib. ii. c. 10. Colon. 1691. It is however maintained 
 by Savigny, from the anatomy of the Ibis, that this bird could not have swallowed 
 serpents. 
 
 (9) " Ibes maximam vim serpentium conficiunt," &c. Cic. de Nat. Deor. lib. i. 
 p. 210. Ed. Lamb. 
 
 (10) " Honos iis serpentium exitio tantus, ut in Thessalia capitale fuerit occidisse, 
 eademque legibus pcena, quae in homicidam." Plin. Hist. Nat. lib. x. c. 23. torn. I. 
 p. 527. L. Bat. 1635. 
 
172 
 
 CHAP. V. 
 
 Hieroglyphic 
 Tablet. 
 
 PYRAMIDS OF SACCARA. 
 
 in which these birds were universally held. The peculiar 
 circumstances which occasioned the remarkable burial of 
 so many of their bodies in the Catacombs of Egypt, are 
 explained by Ibn Washi, an Arabian writer ; who says, that 
 it was usual to embalm and bury an Ibis at the initiation 
 of the priests 1 . When we reflect upon the number of 
 the priests who officiated in the temples and colleges of 
 the country, and the lapse of ages during which the prac- 
 tice continued, extending even to the conquest of Egypt 
 by the Arabs, we may easily account for the astonishing 
 number of these birds thus preserved. Plutarch, more- 
 over, mentions the burial of the Ibis, and of other animals 
 held sacred among the Egyptians. He says, it was some- 
 times a private, and sometimes a public ceremony 2 . The 
 Ibis, with other sacred animals, was put to death by 
 the priests, and privately buried, as an expiatory sacrifice 
 to avert pestilential diseases. The burial was public when 
 any particular species of the sacred animals was to be 
 interred 3 . 
 
 We had no sooner left the sepulchres of the Ibis, than we 
 observed Mr. Hammer, on horseback, coming towards us, 
 followed by a large party of Arabs, who were dragging 
 after him a large stone, which had closed the mouth of one 
 of the Mummy-pits. It was a very fine hieroglyphical tablet; 
 and as Mr. Hammer wished very much to send it to the 
 
 Oriental 
 
 (1) See the work of Ibn Washi, on Antient Alphabets, &c. as translated by Mr. 
 Hammer. The same writer is mentioned by Kircher, under the name of Aben Vaschia* 
 
 (2) Plutarch, de Isid. et Osir. c. 73. Cantb. 1744. (3) Ibid. 
 
>» M 
 
 PL Z 
 
 H 
 
 ^ 
 
 • 
 
PYRAMIDS OF SACCARA. 
 
 173 
 
 Oriental Academy of Vienna, we assisted him in moving it to- 
 wards the djerm, and succeeded in getting it on board. It was 
 afterwards sent to Rosetta, and to the English fleet ; but we 
 are yet ignorant whether it ever reached its destination. In 
 the fear that it may have been lost, and at the same time in 
 the hope of making known to whom it properly belongs, if 
 it now exist in other hands than those for whom Mr. Ham- 
 mer intended it, a few words may be added as a description 
 of it, accompanied by an engraved representation of the 
 stone. 
 
 It seemed, from the rude and angular style of the 
 sculpture, as well as from the substance itself, upon which 
 the characters were engraved, to be of the highest degree 
 of antiquity. It was a slab of common grey limestone, 
 about four feet in length, and two in breadth. Certain 
 of the inscribed characters (for example, IAI and I A I) are 
 so evidently written letters, that if this single tablet alone 
 remain, as a specimen of hieroglyphic writing, there will 
 be little reason to doubt the use of these characters. 
 Among the four figures in the upper department, Anubis 
 is seen with an egg upon his head, and the Crux ansata 
 in his left hand. Osiris, by his side, bears in his right hand 
 the flagellum, and in his left the crook. Upon the right 
 and left of these figures, on either side, is seen an altar 
 supporting the lotus flower ; and, beyond these, are two figures 
 in the attitude of Almehs, uttering the Eleleu at funerals, 
 but perhaps intended to represent a similar ceremony as 
 practised by the priests, who are distinguished by the 
 baldness of their heads. Herodotus says that it was the peculiar 
 
 custom 
 
 chap. v. 
 
HDBs TigrT &ESE99 UJ S||JHl|SUU|AU|BtB83BBHB^pHH|KH9iB^ 
 
 PYRAMIDS OF SACCARA. 
 
 custom of Egyptian priests to shave their heads 1 . The 
 whole of this symbolical picture may have related to a 
 sepulchral subject: its meaning was explained by inscriptions 
 placed above the figures, and in other parts of the tablet. 
 Anubis with the egg, and the type of Life to come in his 
 left hand 2 , may typify that embryo state of the soul which 
 precedes its revivification after death; as may also the 
 unexpanded flower of the Lotus. Another symbolical pic- 
 ture, below this, exhibits a solemn procession, perhaps the 
 same which Plutarch describes 3 as taking place annually, 
 upon the nineteenth of the Egyptian month Pachon, when 
 the priests carried rich odours and spices to celebrate the 
 finding of Osiris, a ceremony much resembling that of the 
 Resurrection in the Greek Church ; the Christos voscress 
 of the Russians. Inscriptions occupy all the rest of the 
 tablet, either engraven in regular lines beneath, upon the 
 lower part of the stone, or above the heads and by the 
 sides of the pictured figures. This very curious relique, 
 therefore, shews us, not only the sacred writing, but also 
 the sort of symbolical painting used by the priests of Egypt. 
 At the same time, in rudeness of design, and in the forced 
 
 exhibition 
 
 (1) Herodot. Euterpe, c. 36. Eudoxus shaved not only his beard, but his eyebrows, 
 during the time that he resided with the priests of Egypt. Diogen. Laert. lib. viii. 
 segment. 87. pag. 545. Herodotus further relates (Euterpe, c. 37.) that the priests 
 shaved their whole bodies every third day. 
 
 (2) See Chap. IV. p. 109. of this Volume. 
 
 (3) Plut. de Isid. et Osir. p. 39. Camb. 1744. 
 
PYRAMIDS OF SACCAR A. 1^5 
 
 exhibition of profile, the style of delineation resembles that CHAP - v. 
 which is seen upon the most antient terra-cotta vases, found 
 in the sepulchres of those Grecian colonies that were 
 established in the south of Italy. 
 
 Some young Arabs brought us an antelope, which Antelope, 
 they had recently caught. This we purchased of them 
 for three piastres ; about four shillings of our money. 
 They had so bruised its legs with cords, that, notwith- 
 standing all our endeavours to preserve this beautiful 
 animal, it lived with us but a short time. The poor 
 creature, after being compelled to exchange its free range 
 of the desert for a confined birth on board the djerm, 
 grew tame, and seemed sensible of the kindness of its 
 keepers, for it actually died licking the hands of the 
 person who fed it. The people of Saccara brought us also 
 several antique idols, beads, amulets, &c. found about the 
 Pyramids, and in the Catacombs. Of these we shall briefly 
 notice the more remarkable. 
 
 ]. Scarabcei, formed of onyx-stones, with signets, con- Antiquitie* 
 
 . . . . found by the 
 
 taming hieroglyphic characters, but executed in the Arab « 
 coarsest manner; the stones being at the same time 
 so decomposed, that they are become of a whitish 
 colour, quite opaque, and externally resemble com- 
 mon limestone. Of this nature were the signets men- 
 tioned by Plutarch, as worn by soldiers 4 . See Nos. 1, 
 and 2, of the Piute. 
 
 2. Small 
 
 (4) De Isid. et Osir. c. 10. Lut. 1624. 
 

 HMMMHBNlJi 
 
 "TCPtl^i^T* ■ f**^ S?! 
 
 176 
 
 CHAP. V. 
 
 PYRAMIDS OF SACCARA. 
 
 2. Small lachrymatory vessels of terra-cotta, formed of 
 pale-white clay, without varnish. 
 
 3. Vessels of libation, of the same materials. 
 
 4. Knife-blades of copper. These are frequently repre- 
 sented in hieroglyphic writing. 
 
 5. Small idols, formed of blue glass, shaped to resemble 
 the form of the Mummy -chests. See No. 3. 
 
 6. Smaller images of Anuhis, of the same substance, bored 
 to be worn as ear-drops, or amulets round the neck. 
 See No. 4. 
 
 J. Similar figures of Orus. See No. 5. 
 
 8. Sculptured idols, formed of limestone, representing 
 the double image of Leo and Virgo, crowned by an 
 orb, as the Sun. See No. 6. 
 
 9. Similar figures of Isis. See No. 7. 
 
 10. Beads of "white glass, each of which has seven blue 
 
 spots. See No. 8. 
 ] 1. Beads of white glass, without spots. 
 
 12. Deformed images, resembling the idols of India and 
 China. See No. 9. 
 
 13. Phalli, and indecent images of Osiris, as mentioned 
 by Plutarch 1 . All these are of blue glass, bored, to 
 be worn as amulets. 
 
 14. Small amulets of the same substance, and similarly 
 bored, which are very numerous, representing a horses 
 
 head. 
 
 (l) Wavrayov £e teal dv6puir6p.optyov 'Gtripicos ayaX/ua ^likvvovtiv, lt,opOid£ot> r%> 
 «!toi'j), 2nd to yovifiov teal to Tpotyi/xov. Plut. de Isid. et Osir. c. 51. hut. 1624. 
 

 MtlUnrt.,, JA\ 
 
 l.rttttj !\mu ..<./•' 
 
 Lares, Heads. Amu lets, frr, round n\ Saccara, 
 
 I'uhUJir.i ''a ii tA*iy T.&dtM t KMmm.S*mmd. Imtln . 
 
■■ §■■■ ■■■■■ 
 
 ■MOM 
 
PYRAMIDS OF SACCARA, 177 
 
 head. This is the symbol which Virgil mentions as chap, v. 
 being found by the Carthaginians in digging for the 
 foundation of their city 9 . It is represented upon the 
 medals of Carthage, which probably suggested the 
 circumstance to Virgil's mind. It also appears upon the 
 Soros, called the Lover s Fountain, which was found 
 near the castle of Kallat el Kabsh in Cairo, and is now 
 in the British Museum. Nor are we without its ex- 
 planation ; for Ceres, who was the same as Isis, was 
 worshipped under the form of a horse's head in Sicily. 
 It is therefore only one of the modifications under 
 which the Antients recognised Isis, the Pantamorpha 
 Mater. Some of these amulets were curiously adorned 
 with small eyes of antient bronze. See Nos. 10, 11. 
 15. Sculptured images, formed of an opaque vitrified sub- 
 stance, resembling No. 5. only larger in size, and 
 covered with hieroglyphic characters. These were 
 about four inches in length. See Nos. 12, 13. 
 
 The horses of our Arab guard were the finest we had ever Horses of the 
 
 Country. 
 
 seen; not even excepting those of Circassia. In choosing 
 their steeds, the Arabs prefer mares : the Turks give the 
 preference to stallions. The Mamalukes and Bedouin Arabs 
 are perhaps better mounted than any people upon earth ; and 
 the Arab grooms were considered, by many of our officers, 
 
 as 
 
 (2) " Lucus in urbe fuit media, laetissimus umbrA, 
 Quo primum jactati undis et turbine, Pceni 
 Effodere loco signum, quod regia Juno 
 
 Monstrarat, caput acris equi."- 
 VOL. III. 
 
 /Emid.l. 44ft. 
 
 2 A 
 

 178 
 
 CHAP. V. 
 
 Theft 
 detected. 
 
 PYRAMIDS OF SACCARA. 
 
 as superior to those of our own country. These grooms 
 affirm that their horses never lie down, but sleep standing, 
 when they are fastened by one leg to a post ; and that the 
 saddle is never taken off, except for cleaning the animal. 
 We give this relation as we heard it, without venturing 
 to vouch for its truth. After paying the sheik for the 
 horses we had hired, and the peasants for their labour, we 
 returned in our boat to Sheik Atman, where we had rested 
 the preceding night; and found, as before, a party of Almehs, 
 with bells upon their fingers, exhibiting the dance we had 
 then noticed, as if it had continued, without intermission, 
 from the time of our first coming to the village. Several 
 Turkish soldiers had arrived from the Vizier, to collect straw 
 for his cavalry. While our servant was conversing with one 
 of these men, who was seated upon the ground observing 
 the dance, an Arab, understanding the Turkish language, 
 joined them, and entered into conversation. This man con- 
 trived to steal from the servant his purse, containing four 
 sequins of Holland. Upon being accused of the theft, he 
 denied it ; but all the Turks, indignant at the audacious 
 manner in which the theft had been committed, insisted 
 upon a general search. The money was found in the Arab's 
 shoes, placed beneath his pillow, under a date- tree; and the 
 purse where he had thrown it, at the distance of a quarter 
 of a mile. Upon the following morning we left the village 
 as soon as daylight appeared, and at eleven A. M. again 
 entered the canal of Cairo. 
 
 Having thus concluded our observations upon the Pyr- 
 amids of Saccdra, as well as those of Dfiza, the remainder 
 
 of 
 
THE PYRAMIDS. 
 
 179 
 
 o: this chapter will be appropriated to a few observations chap. v. 
 upon the history of these remarkable monuments. 
 
 After the numerous accounts which, during so many History of the 
 
 . . r Pyramids. 
 
 ages, have been written to illustrate the origin of the 
 Pyramids, it is not probable that any new remarks will 
 meet with much attention. Yet how few, among all the 
 ;authors who have undertaken to investigate this subject, 
 Ihave ever ventured to express an opinion of their own. 
 {Struck by the magnitude of the objects themselves; by 
 ttheir immense antiquity ; and by a consciousness of the 
 obscurity in which their history has been veiled, every 
 succeeding traveller contents himself with a detail of the 
 observations of his predecessors, only shewing the extent 
 of the labyrinth wherein he is bewildered. Yet something 
 perhaps might be accomplished, were it allowable upon 
 good authority to annihilate a most redundant source of 
 error and imposture. With this view, it may be ad- 
 visable to abandon all that Grecian historians have written 
 upon the subject 1 . The arrogance and vanity with which 
 they endeavoured to explain every thing, consistently 
 with their own fables and prejudices, caused the well- 
 known observation made to Solon by an Egyptian priest, 
 who, according to Plato, maintained that the " Greeks were 
 always children, and had no knowledge of antiquity." 
 Hence originate those difficulties mentioned by Pauw, as 
 encountered by persons who study the monuments of a 
 
 country 
 
 (l) " Mirum est quo procedat Graeca eredulitas. Nullum tam impudens mendacium 
 est, ui teste careat." Pirn. Hist. Nat. lib. viii. c. 20. torn. I. p. 425. L. Bat. 1(535. 
 
so 
 
 tT^iA/i*^^ 1^-V £&*>Af~*fc 
 
 
 180 THE PYRAMIDS. 
 
 chap. v. country concerning which the moderns have conspired with 
 the antients to give us false ideas. " The latter indeed," 
 says he', " were probably deceived by being at the discretion 
 of a set of men called Interpreters, whose college was esta- 
 blished in the reign of Psammetichus, and who might be 
 compared to those people called Ciceroni at Rome. Tra- 
 vellers who went and returned, like Herodotus, without 
 knowing a word of the language of the country, could 
 learn nothing but from these Interpreters. These men, 
 perceiving the inclination of the Greeks for the marvellous, 
 amused them, like children, with stories inconsistent with 
 common sense, and unworthy of the majesty of history." 
 If we would obtain authentic information concerning the 
 earliest history of the Egyptians, we must be contented 
 to glean from other sources ; and principally from Jewish 
 and Arabian writers. The Jews, by the long residence of 
 their forefathers in Egypt, and also by the constant inter- 
 course offered in the contiguity of this country and Judaea, 
 were of all people the most likely to have preserved some 
 knowledge of Egyptian antiquities : and the Arabs have 
 preserved not only the names bestowed upon the Pyramids 
 from the earliest times, but also some traditions as to the 
 use for which they were intended. By the dim light thus 
 afforded, and by comparing the existing remains with 
 similar works in other countries, and with the knowledge 
 we possess of the customs of all nations in their infancy, 
 we may possibly attain something beyond conjecture, as to 
 
 the 
 
 (1) Philosoph. Diss, on the Egyptians and Chinese, vol. II. p. 43. Lond. 1/9 5 
 
THE PYRAMIDS. 
 
 181 
 
 the people by whom the Pyramids were erected, and the , CHAp - v - , 
 purpose for which they were intended. The epocha of their 
 origin was unknown when the first Greek philosophers 
 travelled into Egypt 2 . They are even more antient than the 
 age of the earliest writers whose works have been trans- 
 mitted to us. That we may arrive, therefore, at any thing 
 like satisfactory information concerning them, the following 
 order of inquiry may be deemed requisite : 
 
 i. Who were the inhabitants of this part of Egypt in Manner of the 
 
 Investigation. 
 
 the remote period to which these monuments refer ? 
 
 ii. Is there any thing in the Pyramids, as they now 
 appear, which corresponds with any of the known 
 customs of this people P 
 
 in. Did any thing occur in the history of the same people 
 which can possibly be adduced to explain the present 
 violated state of the principal pyramid ? 
 
 iv. Doth any record or tradition attribute the origin of 
 the Pyramids to this people, or to a period equally 
 remote with that of their residence in Egypt? 
 
 If the three last of these queries admit of an answer in the 
 affirmative, and a satisfactory reply can be given to the Jirst, 
 the result will surely be, either that we do possess docu- 
 ments sufficient to illustrate this very difficult subject, or, at 
 
 least, 
 
 (2) " Nihil certius est, quam omnia, quae de conditoribus Pyramidum prodita nobis 
 sunt ab iEgyptiis et Graecis, esse incertissima. Ip-i id Veteres fatentur." Ferixonii 
 /Egypt. Orig. et Temp, anticjuiss. Investigatio, cap. xxi. p. 386. L. Bat. 17U- 
 
KM 
 
 p^p^p^pj pp_ 
 
 
 ■IS .JJ?»-:» --•*-A*-^-'<« -*r^i S ; :">ii*i"<»J«6<v5X'».'Jf»it-«-^.')tt 
 
 Age of the 
 Pyramids. 
 
 ; THE PYRAMIDS. 
 
 least, that a very high degree of probability attaches to the 
 opinion thereby suggested ; and that the obscurity in which 
 this part of antient history has been involved, is principally 
 owing to the cause assigned by Pauw ', namely, to a train of 
 theories founded upon the bewildering fables of the Greeks. 
 To proceed, therefore, according to the proposed method 
 of investigation : 
 
 i. 
 
 Who were the Inhabitants of this part of Egypt, in the remote period 
 to which these monuments refer f 
 
 The kingdom of Egypt, according to the best authorities 
 admitted in chronology 2 , had lasted about seventeen hundred 
 years at the conquest of Cambyses 3 . The first Princes spoken 
 of in sacred scripture are those " of Pharaoh," mentioned 
 in the books of Moses 4 , near two thousand years before the 
 Christian sera. The first pyramid, according to Herodotus 5 , 
 was built by Moeris, the last of a line of kings from Menes 
 to Sesostris ; and therefore it must have been erected some 
 ages before the Trojan war. Without, however, placing 
 any reliance upon this record, or attempting to assign a 
 particular epocha for any one of these monuments, we may 
 venture to assume, as a fact, upon the authority of all 
 writers by whom they are noticed, that they existed above 
 
 sixteen 
 
 (1) Philosoph. Diss. &c. vol.11, p. 43. Lond. 1795. 
 
 (2) See the calculation of Constantine Manasses. 
 
 (3) B. C.525. 
 
 (4) " The Princes also of Pharaoh." Genes, xii. 15. 
 
 (5) Herodot. Euterpe, c. 101. 
 
THE PYRAMIDS. 
 
 183 
 
 sixteen hundred years before the birth of Christ. Almost a 
 century before that time, the prosperity of Joseph, then 
 a ruler in this country, and a dweller in the very city 
 to which these monuments belonged, is described as having 
 extended "unto the utmost bounds of the everlasting 
 hills." These words 6 , as applied to the place of his 
 residence, and the seat of his posterity, are very remarkable. 
 He " bought all the land' of Egypt for Pharaoh," reducing 
 all its independent provinces into one monarchy. The entire 
 administration of this empire was intrusted to him ; for 
 Pharaoh said 7 , "Only in the throne will I be greater than 
 thou." In the remote period, therefore, to which the 
 Pyramids refer, " Joseph dwelt in Egypt, he, and his 
 father's house." It is said of them 8 , that they "increased 
 abundantly, and multiplied, and waxed exceeding mighty, 
 and the land was filled with them." The customs of 
 embalming bodies, and of placing them in sepulchral 
 chambers, were then practised; for Jacob 9 was embalmed, 
 and " gathered unto his fathers in the cave of the field 
 of Ephron." At the death of Joseph, he too was em- 
 balmed' , but not "gathered unto his fathers. He was 
 entombed, to use the literal expression of the Septuagint", 
 EN THI 20PM, in Egypt. And this mode of his interment 
 suggests a reply to the second question before proposed. 
 
 Is 
 
 CHAP. V. 
 
 (6) Genes, xlix. 26. 
 (8) Exod. i. 7. 
 (10) Ibid. l. 26. 
 
 (7) Gen. xli. 40. 
 (9) Ibid. l. 2. 
 (11) Ibid. 
 

 
 184 
 
 CHAP. V. 
 
 Sepulchral 
 Origin of the 
 Pyramids. 
 
 THE PYRAMIDS. 
 
 II. 
 
 Is there any thing in the Pyramids, as they now appear, tvhich corre- 
 sponds with any of the known Customs of this People ? 
 
 The nature of a Soros has been repeatedly explained, 
 upon the indisputable authority of Inscriptions where this 
 name has been assigned to a particular kind of receptacle 
 for the dead, one of which now exists in the chamber of 
 the principal pyramid. This kind of coffin has sometimes 
 one of its extremities rounded, and sometimes both are 
 squared ; but its dimensions are almost always the same, 
 and it is very generally monolithal, or of one stone. This 
 is the kind of coffin which the Romans called Sarco- 
 phagus ' ; and any doubt as to its use, seems to be 
 without reason ; because the Soros, in many instances, 
 has borne, not only its name inscribed upon it in legible 
 characters, but also the purport for which it was in- 
 tended. The principal pyramid therefore contains that 
 which corresponds with the known customs of a people 
 who inhabited Egypt in the remote period to which the 
 Pyramids refer, because Joseph's body was put iv rrj 2o>w. 
 And on this fact alone, if no other could be adduced, 
 the sepulchral origin of those monuments is decidedly 
 
 manifest 2 . 
 
 in. Did 
 
 (1) Augustin. de Civit. Dei, 1. xviii. c. 5. Julius Pollux, x. 150. 
 
 (2) " Communior ergo sententia fuit, sepulchra fuisse Regum (Fide Diodorum Sic. 
 lib.i. pag. 40, 41.) quod ex solio seu sandapila in illis residua satis constat." Perizon. 
 dig. Mgypt. c.1\. p. 393. L. Bat. 1711. 
 
THE PYRAMIDS. 
 
 III. 
 
 Did any thing occur in the History of the same People which can possibly 
 be adduced to explain the present violated state of the principal 
 Pyramid f 
 
 Previous to the consideration of this question, it 
 may be proper to mention, that the custom of heaping 
 an artificial mound, whether of stones or of earth, above 
 the Soros, after interment, was a common practice of the 
 Antients. Examples of this kind have been previously 
 alluded to in the former volumes of these Travels. The 
 most antient form of this sort of mound was not pyra- 
 midal. However antient the Pyramids may be, a simpler 
 hemispheroidal or conical form seems to have preceded the 
 more artificial angular structure. Among the Pyramids of 
 Saccdra, which appear to be more antient than those of 
 Djha, there are instances, as we have shewn, not only of 
 this primeval pile, but of its various modifications, until 
 it assumed the pyramidal shape. One example has been 
 noticed among the Pyramids of Saccdra, of an immense 
 mound, which corresponds in its form with the common 
 appearance presented by antient Tumuli almost all over the 
 world, as they are found in countries where the pyramidal 
 shape was never introduced. But to proceed, in the dis- 
 cussion of the third question. 
 
 The body of Joseph being thus placed h rrj 26 P p, and Possible cause 
 
 of the Vioia- 
 buried according to the accustomed usage of the Egyp- tumofthe 
 
 principal 
 
 tkms (as manifested by the existence of one of their antient pyramid. 
 
 VOL. III. 
 
 2 B 
 
 sepulchres 
 
SWlfiM $lrj-l>V ViiWWS *&'*$? 
 
 
 THE PYRAMIDS. 
 
 sepulchres containing the receptacle in question), was not 
 intended to remain in Egypt. The Israelites had bound 
 themselves to him by an oath, that when they left the land, 
 they would " carry his bones" with them 1 . Accordingly 
 we find, that when a century and a half had elapsed from 
 the time of his burial, the sepulchre, which during all this 
 period had preserved his reliques in a Soros, was opened by 
 the children of Israel. Their number amounted to six hun- 
 dred thousand men when they went out of Egypt, besides 
 the mixed multitude by whom they were accompanied 2 ; 
 a sufficient army, surely, even for the opening of a pyramid 
 if it were necessary, especially when the persons employed 
 for the undertaking were acquainted with the secret of its 
 entrance ; having, from the very moment of the patriarch's 
 interment, been under a solemn engagement to remove the 
 body which they had there placed. However this may be 
 determined, it is certain the tomb was opened ; for no 
 sooner is their departure mentioned, than we read 3 - — " Moses 
 took the bones of Joseph with him." Here, then, we 
 have a record in history, which implies the violation of 
 a sepulchre, and the actual removal of an embalmed body 
 from the Soros in which it is said to have been deposited. 
 The locality, too, of this sepulchre seems to coincide with 
 that of the particular coemetery where this pyramid has for 
 
 so 
 
 (1) " And Joseph took an oath of the children of Jsrael, saying, God will surely 
 visit you, and you shall carry up my bones from hence." Gen. l. 25. 
 
 (2) Exod. xii. 37, 3b. « 
 
 (3) Ibid. xiii. 19. 
 
THE PYRAMIDS. 
 
 so many ages unaccountably borne the marks of a similar 
 violation ; its secret entrance being disclosed to view; and its 
 Soros always empty 4 .- It is by no means here presumed that 
 this circumstance will account for its violated state ; but it 
 furnishes a curious coincidence between the present appear- 
 ance of the pyramid, and a fact recorded in antient history 
 which may possibly be urged to that effect. No other pyramid 
 has been thus opened ; neither is it probable that any such 
 violation of a sepulchre would ever have been formerly 
 tolerated ; so sacrilegious was the attempt held to be among 
 all the nations of antiquity, Egyptians, Jews, Greeks, and 
 Romans 5 . At the same time, there are many weighty argu- 
 ments against the opinion that such a stupendous pyramid 
 would have been erected by Joseph's posterity over his 
 remains, even if they had worshipped him as a God, when 
 it was known that his body was not intended to remain in 
 the country: but the honours paid to the dead in Egypt were 
 in certain instances, as it is evident, almost beyond our con- 
 ception ; and there is no saying what, in a century and a half, 
 the piety of some hundred thousand individuals might not 
 have effected, especially when aided by the Egyptians them- 
 selves, who equally revered the memory of Joseph, although 
 they became, at last, inimical to his descendants. This part of 
 the subject is not altogether essential to the end proposed : it 
 has been introduced rather as a curious inquiry suggested by 
 
 the 
 
 18? 
 
 CHAP. V. 
 
 (4) " Locus quoque, in quo condits sunt Pyramides, ab Israelitarum habitation* 4 
 minime fuit alienus." Perizonii Origines jEgyptiacce, c. 21. p. 390. L. Bat. 1 7 1 1 . 
 
 (5) See Ch. xvii. of the former Section, p. 600; and Note (3). 
 
! wwwgsyfga- -y'^B B HHlH H Hi #*l^s ««§ 
 
 188 
 
 CHAP. V. 
 
 Historical 
 Evidence con- 
 cerning the 
 building of 
 Pyramids in 
 
 Egypt. . 
 
 THE PYRAMIDS. 
 
 the connection which appears to exist between the Pyramids 
 and the history of the Hebrews : it neither affects nor 
 alters the main argument, as to the nature of these monu- 
 ments in general. 
 
 IV. 
 
 Doth any record or tradition attribute the origin of the Pyramids to 
 the Israelites, or to a period equally remote ivith that of their resi- 
 dence in Egypt P 
 
 This brings us to the last article of the inquiry. For 
 the record, we have only to refer to Josephus 1 ; who ex- 
 pressly states it as one of the grievous oppressions which 
 befel the Hebrews after the death of Joseph, that they 
 were compelled to labour in building Pyramids 2 ; and 
 the curious memorial, as given by the Jewish Historian, 
 is sustained by collateral evidence in the books of Moses. 
 The principal labour of the Israelites is described in 
 Exodus 3 to be a daily task of making bricks, without 
 being allowed a requisite portion of straw for their manu- 
 facture. The mere circumstance of six hundred thousand 
 persons being employed at the same time in making bricks, 
 affords of itself a proof that the building for which 
 these materials were required could be of no ordinary 
 
 magnitude. 
 
 (1) " Ego certe Josepho, Israelitarum tempore factas censenti accesserim." Perizon* 
 Orig. jEgypt. c. 21. p. 387. L Bat. 1/11. 
 
 (2) TlvpafilBas te dvoiKolop.ovvrt<: t^irpv^nv ij/uoiv to yfVo?. " Pyramidibus etiam 
 exstruendis homines nostros adhibentes deterebant." Josephi Antiq. Jud. lib. ii. c. g. 
 Edit. Havervampi, torn. I. p. g7« 1726. 
 
 (3) Exod. v. 16. 
 
THE PYRAMIDS. 
 
 189 
 
 magnitude 4 . This happened too after the death of one of the v cha p- v -^ 
 kings of Egypt 5 , at which time, it is said, they began " to 
 sigh by reason of their bondage." It is therefore very 
 probable that the pyramid at which they laboured was 
 the sepulchre of this king: this is matter of conjecture; 
 although it may be added, that one of the Pyramids near 
 Saccara is built of bricks, containing chopped strata 6 . The 
 fact for present attention is the record preserved by Jose- 
 phus, which attributes to the Israelites the origin of certain 
 Pyramids in Egypt: and for other evidence, proving them 
 to have existed in a period equally remote with that in 
 
 which 
 
 (4) "Quid vero tanto temporis intevvallo tot millia hominum perfecerint, non reperi- 
 mus, nisi munitionem duarum vel trium urbium, quae ab iis intra paucissimos annos facil- 
 lime perfici potuit. Debuerunt etiam aliud quid maximae niolis, laboris, temporis, praesti- 
 tissie, quodque conveniens esset aliquot centenis millibus hominum longissimo et continuo 
 tempore ad opus adactis. Nihil autem majus et operosius in iEgypto, atque ejus Histo- 
 ria invenimus exstructione Pyramidum, quas ab aliis, aut alio tempore exstructas minime 
 comstat." Perizon. Orig. uEgypt. c. 21. p. 388. L. Bat. 1711. 
 
 (5) Exod. ii. 23. 
 
 (6) See Pocockes Descript. of the East, vol. I. p. 53. Lond. 1/43. It stands 
 abo>ut three miles and a half to the south of the Pyramids of Saccara, near the village of 
 Memshieh Dashour, and is called Ktoube-el- Menshieh, the bricks of Menshieh. It is 
 mentioned by Herodotus {Euterpe, c. 136). Greaves, who, though an accurate writer, 
 was not always an accurate observer, after two visits made to the Pyramids, and having, 
 as he says, (Pref. to Pyramidog. Lond. 16-16.) examined even the neighbouring desert, 
 knew not the existence of this pyramid. And he urges this as a reason for not sub- 
 scribing to the opinions of those modern writers (Spondanus de Ccemeteriis Sacris, lib. i. 
 par . 1. cap. 6. Brodceus Epigr. Grcec. sk vaovt;) who believed the Pyramids to have been 
 erected by the Israelites: "The sacred Scriptures," says he, " clearely expressing the 
 slaverie of the Jewes to have consisted in making brick, whereas all these Pyramids 
 consist of stone." (Pyramidographia, p. 1.) Exactly after the same manner, he neg- 
 lected to notice (he petrified lentils described by Straboj and then accounts for their 
 disappearance, by supposing them to have been " consumed by time, or scattered by the 
 wimds"."! or, " buried in sand." Ibid. p. lig. 
 

 BBBHW 
 
 190 
 
 CHAP. V. 
 
 THE PYRAMIDS. 
 
 which this people inhabited the country, we may refer to 
 the testimony of Manetho, whose authority is respected by 
 Josephus, and who, from his situation as an Egyptian 
 priest 1 , had access to every record preserved in the sacred 
 archives of the country. Manetho affirms, that these struc- 
 tures were begun by the fourth king of Egypt, during the 
 first dynasty 2 ; which carries their antiquity back to a period 
 earlier than the age of Abraham s . Of this nature are the 
 records required by the last question in the proposed inquiry, 
 without having recourse to any of the writers of Greece 
 or Italy. As for the traditions which refer the origin of 
 these monuments to the age of the Israelites in Egypt, these 
 exist not only among the Arabians, but also among the 
 Jews and Egyptians. The author of a book entitled Morat 
 Alz&nan, cited by Greaves in his Pyramidographia* , speaking 
 of the founders of the Pyramids, says, " some attribute them 
 to Joseph, some to Nimrod." The Arabians distinguished 
 
 the 
 
 (l) Josephus says, that the care and continuance of the public records were the pe- 
 culiar province of the priests. {Fid. lib. i. cont. Apion.) Manetho belonged to the College 
 at Helopolis, the very seat of Egyptian science. His testimony was preferred by Marsham 
 to that of Josephus himself. However, it should be acknowledged that Perizonius, who 
 considered the Dynasties of Manetho as fabulous, attacked Marsham upon this ground ; 
 describing him as " absurdissima quceque Manethonis recipiendi studiosior, quam speciosa 
 Joseph." Vid. Jac. Perizonii yEoyrT. Orig. Invest, cap. 21. p. 384. L. Bat. 1711. 
 
 (2' " Etenim Manetho jam in dynastia 1. quartum ejus regem, Venephen, Pyra- 
 midos erexisse tradit ; ac dein, in dynastia iv. regem secundum, Suphin, pyramidum 
 maxirnam exstruxisse." Perizon. JEgyptiacce, cap. 21. p. 383. L. Bat. \y 11. This 
 authority, admitted by Marsham, is contemned by the author from whom it is now 
 cited. 
 
 (3) Ibid. p. 384. 
 
 (4) P. 6. Lond. 1646. 
 
THE PYRAMIDS. 
 
 191 
 
 tihe Pyramids by the appellation of Djebel Pharooun, or , cha p. 
 Pharaoh" s Mountains' '; and there is not one of these Oriental 
 writers who does not :onsider them as antient sepulchres 6 . 
 
 Upon these premises, thus derived from sources that are 
 not liable to the objections urged by Pauw, being wholly 
 independent of any nctions which he supposes the Greeks 
 to have blended with their accounts of the Pyramids, the 
 following conclusions may perhaps appear to be warranted : 
 
 1 . That the Hebrews inhabited Egypt in the period to 
 which the Pyramids may be referred. 
 That the Pyramids contain an existing document cor- 
 responding with the mode of interment practised by 
 this people, and were therefore intended as sepulchres. 
 That the present state of the principal pyramid may 
 possibly be owing to the circumstance related in their 
 history, of the removal of Joseph's reliques from the 
 So?™ in which they had been preserved. 
 That from the records of Jewish and Egyptian his- 
 torians, as well as from the traditions of the country, 
 we may attribute the origin of some of the Pyramids 
 to the Hebrews themselves ; and may assign to others 
 a period even more remote than the age in which this 
 people inhabited Egypt. 
 
 In 
 
 2. 
 
 3. 
 
 4. 
 
 (5) See also Egmont and Hey man's Travels, vol. II. p. 85. Lond. 1759. 
 
 (6) See the Extracts from lbn Aid Alhokm, and the Arabian authors, as given by 
 Greaves, &c. &c. 
 
■a--*<>?>?f->,H:i? er>>.: 
 
 ■■■■■■1 
 
 192 
 
 CHAP. V. 
 
 Further View 
 of the Subject. 
 
 THE PYRAMIDS. 
 
 In the principal point to be determined, namely, the use 
 for which these structures were erected by the Antients, 
 there cannot remain even the shadow of a doubt. That 
 they were sepulchres, has been demonstrated beyond the 
 possibility of a contradiction ; and in proving this, all the best 
 authorities have long concurred 1 . In their whole extent 
 from Dj iza to Saccara, the Pyramids, and all their contiguous 
 subterranean catacombs, constituted one vast coemetery, 
 belonging to the seat of the Memphian kings 2 , the various 
 parts of which were constructed in different periods of time. 
 Some learned writers however, as Shaw, and the author of 
 Philosophical Dissertations on the Egyptians and Chinese, 
 have exercised their erudition in attempting to prove that 
 the Pyramids were mythological repositories of Egyptian 
 superstitions ; and they have described the Soros, in direct 
 opposition to Strabo. either as a tomb of Osiris 3 , or as one 
 of those Kitnai iepal in which the priests kept their sacred 
 vestments 4 . Nor, perhaps, would these conjectures have 
 appeared so visionary, if those distinguished writers had 
 carried the investigation somewhat further. If the connection 
 between antient Egyptian mythology and Jewish history 
 had been duly traced, an evident analogy, founded upon 
 
 events 
 
 (1) See the authorities and arguments stated by Perizonius, Origines JEgyptiacce, 
 cap. 21. p. 393. L. Bat. 17 11. Also Greaves 's Pyramidographia, p. 43. Lond. l(J4(5. 
 &c. tSfc. 
 
 (2) Td(j>oi tuv fiaaiXiav. (Stralon. Geog. lib. xvii. p. 1145. Ed. Oxon.) In the 
 threatenings denounced against the Israelites (Hosea, ch. ix.v. 0.) it is said, "Memphis 
 
 SHALL BURT THEM." 
 
 (3) See Pauw on the Egypt, and Chinese, vol. II. p. 48. Lond. 1/95. 
 
 (4) See Shaw's Travels, p. 371. Lond. 1757. 
 
THE PYRAMIDS. 
 
 events which have reference to the earliest annals of the He- 
 brews, might be made manifest. The subject, of itself suffi- 
 cient to constitute a separate dissertation, would cause too 
 much digression ; although an endeavour may be made to 
 concentrate some of its leading features within the compass 
 of a note 5 . The main object at present is to prove the inten- 
 tion for which the Pyramids were erected ; and in this, it 
 
 is 
 
 193 
 
 (5) Perhaps, with due attention to facts collected from antient and modern writers, 
 the whole connection might be traced between the history of Joseph, and the 
 Egyptian mythology founded thereon. For this purpose, the reader may be referred 
 to all that Vossius has written upon the subject (Fid. lib.i. cap.2% torn. I. p. 213. de 
 Theologid Gentili : Amst. 1642), who considers the Egyptian Apis as a symbol of the 
 Patriarch. He supports his opinion by authority from Ruffinus {Histories Ecclesiastic*, 
 lib.il cap. 33.); and derives evidence from Augustin, (Script. Mirab. Li. c.\5.) to 
 prove that the Egyptians placed an Ox near the sepulchre of Joseph. It appears also, 
 from Suidas (voce Idpartt), that Apis was by some considered a symbol of Joseph : 
 " Quo ut magis inclinem facit," observes Vossius, " quod Josephus Deuteronomii cap. 
 penult, commute 17, bos vocetur, secundum codices Hebrceos." But if Apis were the same 
 as Joseph, so must also be Serapis (or Sarapis, as it was written by the Greeks) and 
 Osiris j for these are but different names of the same mythological personage. " Faclus 
 est Joseph quasi rex totius Mgypti, et vocaverunt eum Apis" says Kircher (CEdip.AEgypt. 
 torn. I. p. 196. Horn. i652) ; and he gives us from Varro the reason why he was called 
 Serapis : " Quia Area (inquit Varr) in quapositus erat, Greece seu Mgyptiace dicitur 
 lopoc, undelopdirc?, [quasi Area Apis, deinde, una litera mutata, lepairts dictus est." Also, 
 according to Strabo, Apis was the same as Osiris. "O? cittiv ("Am?) 6 avrot K al 
 'Oarlpis (lib. xvii. p. 1144. Ed. Oxon.) Hence it may be inferred, that as Joseph, 
 together with the names of Apis and Serapis, also bore that of Osiris, the annual 
 mournings which took place in Egypt for the loss of Osiris' body, and the exhibition of 
 an empty Soros upon those occasions, were ceremonies derived from the loss of Joseph's 
 body, which had been carried away by the Hebrews when they left the country. Julius 
 Firmicus, who nourished under the two sons of Gonstantine, endeavours to explain the 
 reason (De Error. Profan. Relig.) why Joseph was called Serapis. In opposition to 
 the origin assigned by Varro, for the name Serapis, it may be observed, that Plutarch 
 (De Isid. et Osir. c. 29.) derides a notion which prevailed maintaining that Serapis 
 was no God, but a mere name for the sepulchral chest where the body of Apis was de- 
 posited : Ovk ttvat Of 6v tov Idpairiv, dWd rrjv 'AlIIAOS 20PON ovrot ovofid- 
 frtrdai. But things which were rejected by the Greeks, as inconsistent with ttheir 
 VOL. III. 2 c' religious 
 
 CHAP. V. 
 
«Ri Immm ESSB 
 
 194 
 
 CHAP. V. 
 
 THE PYRAMIDS. 
 
 is hoped we may succeed. If these were the only monu- , 
 ments of the kind belonging to the antient world, and we 
 
 had 
 
 religious opinions, may come much nearer, on this account, to truth, and to our own. 
 A very popular notion has long been entertained, concerning an extraneous idol brought 
 to Alexandria, by one of the Ptolemies, from the coast of Pontus, which received the 
 appellation of ' Serapis upon its arrival in Egypt. But the word Serapis is purely Egyptian 
 (Vid. Jablonski Panth. u^gypt. torn. I. p. 232. Franco/. 1750); and there is something ex- 
 tremely improbable in the circumstances of the importation. That any of the Ptolemies, 
 cooped as they were in Egypt, should insult the inhabitants of the country (Macrobius, 
 Saturnal. 1. 1 C.J.) by the introduction of a strange Divinity from the Euxine, has 
 always worn an appearance of fable. Jablonski has refuted the opinion, by proving 
 that Serapis was worshipped in Memphis long before the time of the Ptolemies 
 (Panth. Egypt, lib.il c. 5. p. 233. Franc. 1750), and by shewing from Eustathius 
 'that the whole story of this Sinopic Deity was derived from Sinopium near Memphis. 
 Thus Tacitus, " Sedem, ex qua transient (Serapis) Memphin perhibent, inclytam 
 olim, et veteris Egypti columen." Yet Gibbon seems to imply (Hist. c. 28. vol. V. 
 * QO. Lond. 1807) that both the name and the idol were alike strangers to the priests 
 f Eevpt • and he sneers at the notion of Vossius, that the Patriarch Joseph had been 
 adored in the country as the Bull Apis, and the God Serapis. (Ibid. See Note 36.) 
 The reader may consult the learned observations of Bochart upon this subject 
 (Hieroxoicon, torn. I. l\\. c. 34. pp. 345, 346, 347, 348), and also of Jablonski, upon 
 which Gibbon may have grounded his scepticism, although he has not mentioned 
 his authors. The following passage of Apollodorus, as cited by Bochart, proves the 
 name Serapis to be of antient date in Egypt : " Apis, relatus inter Deos, Sakapis appel- 
 latus est." Upon the identity of Serapis and Joseph many learned writers are agreed. 
 " Sunt qui Apim et Serapidem unum Numen putarinl, et per Serapidem Josephum 
 intellexerint ; neg veritati contraria videtur ii^ec opinio." (Cunceus de Repub. 
 Hel.Annot.Nicolai,c\7. not. 14. Thes. Antiq. Sac. Ugolini, Venet. 1745.) Indeed, 
 the numbor of authors and commentators by whom this opinion is maintained may be 
 considered as more than a counterpoise to the objections of Bochart and of Jablonski. 
 Tirinus, (Annot. in Sulpit. Sever, p. 50. Ed. Horn. L. Bat. 1654,) in addition to the 
 authorities above cited, mentions also Pierius and Baronius : and he further observes, 
 " Idque patet, turn ex nomine Serapis quod Bovem notat ; turn ex nomine Arsaph, 
 quo teste Plutarcho, Osiris vocabatur, levi commutatione ex Joseph facta : turn ex Hiero- 
 glyphics, quibus Osiridem designabant, puta figura bovis seu vituli, notis Lunae et Solis 
 insignia : item juvenis imberbis cum modio et calatho in capita. Quae in Josephum, 
 ejusVe boves et spicas, et aetatem, et astrologiae peritiam, ad amussim quadrant. Sub- 
 scribunt Clemens Alexandrinus, Augustinus, A Lapide, et Bonfrerius." See also Spencer 
 deLeg.Heb. lib. Hi. pp. 270,271. Beyer, Hen. VVeghorst.devero DeiCultu,pag.m.2b. 
 edit. Kilon. 167 1. Michael. Not. ad Gaffarell. Curiosiiates, edit. Hamburg. &c. &c. 
 
THE PYRAMIDS. 
 
 195 
 
 had not the evidence afforded by the Soros in the principal 
 pyramid, a greater degree of difficulty might oppose the 
 undertaking. But, in addition to the testimony offered by 
 this remarkable relique, we are enabled, by collateral evi- 
 dences derived from other countries, to establish, beyond 
 all controversy, the truth of their sepulchral origin. It has 
 been already shewn, that, of themselves, they constitute 
 but remaining traces of a custom common to all the 
 nations of antiquity 1 . An antient Tumulus for men of 
 princely rank seems very generally to have consisted of three 
 parts ; the Soros, the Pile, or Heap, and the Stele. Of 
 these, Homer mentions two at once ; as being those parts of 
 a Tumulus which were externally visible 2 . As the practice 
 occasionally varied among different nations, only one of 
 these was used to denote an antient burying-place. In Asia 
 Minor, the Soros, of gigantic proportion, sometimes stood 
 alone, without the Pile and the Stele \ In Scythia, and in 
 many Northern countries, the Pile only appears 4 . In Greece 
 perhaps, although no instance is decidedly known, the simple 
 Stele, without the pile, might serve to denote the grave of 
 a deceased person 5 . The Pile, or Heap, was generally 
 nothing more than a lofty mound of earth. More rarely, it 
 
 was 
 
 chap. v. 
 
 Hermetic 
 Stela;. 
 
 (1) " Apud majores, nobiles aut sub montibus, aut in montibus, sepeliebantur j 
 unde natum est, ut supra cadavera aut Pyramides fierent, aut ingentes collocarentur 
 coliumnae." Servii Comment, in Virgil. 
 
 (2) Tvufiu re, IrtjXn re. II. IT. 456. See Greek Marbles, p. 2. Camb. I8O9. 
 
 (3) See the account of the sepulchres at Telmessus, in the former Section, Ch. vm. 
 
 (4) See Part the First of these Travels. Vignette to Chap. xi. 
 
 (5) Kat Dtj/Xjjv iv\avTa yevitrBat, o'lct vtxpip. Clem. Alex. Strom, lib. v. Oxon. 1/'15. 
 The great Column at Alexandria, called " Pompey's Pillar," may possibly be an example 
 of the Stele, standing alone; as will be shewn in a subsequent Chapter. 
 
wr ■ «**.-.T.^y, Vtfi*: V ii: : *■«$ 
 
 
 196 
 
 CHAP. V. 
 
 Mexican 
 Pyramids. 
 
 THE PYRAMIDS. 
 
 was a magnificent pyramid. A square platform was left, 
 in some instances, upon the tops of those pyramids, as a 
 pedestal for the Stdle. This seems to have been the case 
 upon the summit of the principal pyramid of Dj'iza'. Hence 
 originated the appellation of Hermetic Stelce (because Hermes 
 had the care of the dead), and air the Grecian Mythology 
 connected with them 2 . In America, pyramids were built 
 in this manner by the antient inhabitants of that great 
 continent. That those pyramids were also temples, is true ; 
 because all antient sepulchres were objects of worship, and 
 tombs were the origin of temples 3 . The Spaniards, when 
 they first arrived in Mexico, found pyramids as temples 
 there ; but they were sepulchres. Gage describes one of 
 these 4 : " It was," says he, " a square mount of earth and 
 stone, fifty fathoms long every way, built upwards like 
 to a pyramid of Egypt, saving that the top was not sharp, 
 but plain and flat, and ten fathoms square. Upon the west 
 side were steps up to the top." By the account Gemelli 
 gives 5 of the Mexican Pyramids at Teotiguacan (signifying, 
 in the language of the country, a Place of Gods, or of 
 Adoration), they were erected, like the Egyptian Pyramids, 
 
 for 
 
 (1) Vansleb mentions marks of this kind, which he supposes were intended for a 
 Colossus. " On remarque encore les enfoncures qui y sont, lesquelles servoient pour 
 tenir ferme la base du Colosse qui y estoit pose." Relation d'Egypte, p. 141. Paris, 16J7- 
 It was in all probability a Stele ; but we did not perceive any such appearance ; neither 
 did Pococke, as he confesses, p. 43. vol. I. Descript. of the East, Lond. 1743. 
 
 (2) See the former Section of Part II. of these Travels, p. 352. A dog is often repre- 
 sented upon the sepulchral Stel?e, as a type of the Egyptian Mercury. This Deity ap- 
 pears upon Egyptian monuments, represented by a human figure with a dog's head. 
 
 (3) See Part I. of these Travels, Ch. xvn. p. 399. Second Edit. 
 
 (4) Survey of the West Indies, Chap. xn. Lond. 1 6/ "J, 
 
 (5) Travels, lib. ii. c. 8. Part 6. 
 
THE PYRAMIDS. 
 
 tor sepulchres. The first he saw was a Pyramid of the Moon, 
 about one hundred and fifty feet in height. "It was made," 
 he says, "of earth, in steps, like the Pyramids of Egypt;" 
 and on the top of it was a great stone idol of the Moon. 
 The Pyramid of the Sun was about forty feet higher, and 
 upon the top of it a vast statue of the Sun : And as these 
 pyramids were erected for devotion, so were they for sepul- 
 chres. The same author further informs us, that within the 
 Pyramid of the Moon were vaults where their kings were 
 buried, for which reason the road to them is called Micaotli, 
 that is to say, The Way of the Dead. Precisely, too, after 
 the manner in which the Pyramids of Egypt are sur- 
 rounded by sepulchres of a more diminutive form, the 
 Mexican Pyramids have, as Gemelli tells us, " about them, 
 several little artificial mounts, supposed to be burying-places 
 of lords." Another instance of a similar nature, and more 
 remarkable for the similitude it bears to the principal 
 pyramid of Egypt, was found in the same country, 
 about thirty years ago, by some hunters. This is the great 
 pyramid of Papantla, mentioned by Humboldt ; for, in this, 
 mortar may he discerned in the interstices between the stones. 
 It is an edifice of very high antiquity, and was always an 
 object of veneration among the Mexicans. Humboldt says 
 " they concealed this monument for centuries, from the 
 Spaniards;" and that it was discovered accidentally, in the 
 manner that has been mentioned. 
 
 197 
 
 CHAP. V. 
 
 (6) Travels in New Spain, vol. II. p. 259. 
 
 CHAP. 
 

 1^1«' ' 
 
 
 CHAP. VI. 
 
 CHAP. VI. 
 
 Monastery of 
 the Pro- 
 pagandists. 
 
 GRAND CAIRO TO ROSETTA. 
 
 Monastery of the Propagandists — Marriage Procession — Visit to the 
 Reis Effendi — First Intelligence concerning the Alexandrian Soros 
 — Preparation for Departure — Arrival of the Covering for the Caaba 
 at Mecca — Escape of four Ladies — Passage down the Nile — 
 Chemical Analysis of the Water and Mud of the River — Remains of 
 the City of Sais — Antiquities — Bronze Reliques — Aratriform 
 Sceptre of the Priests and Kings of Egypt — Hieroglyphic Tablet — 
 Enumeration of the Archetypes — Curious Torso of an antient Statue 
 — Triple Hierogram with the Symbol of the Cross — its meaning ex- 
 plained — Mahallet Abouali — Berinbal — Ovens for hatching Chickens 
 — Tombs at Massora Shibrecki — Birds — Arrival at Rosetta — Mr. 
 Hammer sails for England — State of Rosetta at this season of the year. 
 
 After our return to Cairo, we visited the library of the 
 Propaganda Society, in a monastery belonging to the 
 
 Missiona- 
 
GRAND CAIRO. 
 
 199 
 
 Missionaries, and found a collection of books as little worth 
 notice as that of the Franciscans at Jerusalem. It consisted 
 wholly of obscure writings on points of faith, the volumes 
 being mixed together in a confused manner. From their 
 appearance, it was evident they had not been opened by 
 their present possessors. We were shewn some drawings 
 of the Costumi of Cairo, which had been made by one of 
 the Monks, very ill done, but worth seeing, as they con- 
 tained a representation of every thing remarkable in the 
 manner of the inhabitants of this city. The church be- 
 longing to the convent is kept in very neat order. The 
 Copts have a place allowed them for baptism, near to the 
 altar. The Coptic language is now preserved only in their 
 manuscripts. We purchased a folio manuscript copy of the 
 Gospels, finely written, which had the Arabic on one side, 
 and the Coptic on the other. In the Coptic service of the 
 church, the prayers are read in Arabic, and the gospels in 
 Coptic. Browne, who has written the best account of 
 Cairo, computes the number of its mosques at more than 
 three hundred, and the total population of the city as equal 
 to three hundred thousand souls '. 
 
 In our road to the English head- quarters, from the convent 
 of the Propagandists, we met a marriage procession. First came 
 a person bearing a box, looking like the kind of show which 
 is carried about the streets of London, covered with gilding 
 
 and 
 
 CHAP. VI. 
 
 Marriage 
 Procession. 
 
 (l) Travels in Africa, p. 71. Land. 1799- The reader, wishing for a further sta- 
 tistical detail, may be referred to the volume published by this faithful, intelligent, and 
 most enterprising traveller. 
 

 
 200 GRAND CAIRO. 
 
 chap. vi. and ornaments. The use of this we could not learn. Next 
 followed two boys, superbly dressed, and mounted on very 
 fine horses richly caparisoned. Two grooms were in 
 attendance upon each of these horses. Then followed a 
 great number of men, on foot. After these came the 
 bride, beneath a canopy supported by four men, and pre- 
 ceded by a female attendant, who, as she walked, continued 
 to fan her with one of the large semicircular fans of the 
 country, made of differently coloured feathers. The bride 
 was entirely covered by a veil of scarlet crape, spangled 
 from head to foot: she was supported on each side by 
 a female, veiled, according to the common costume of 
 the country. Then followed a band of musicians, playing 
 upon hautboys and tambours. After the musicians, came 
 a party of Almehs, screaming the Alleluia, as before 
 described. The procession closed with a concourse of people 
 of all descriptions. 
 
 On Monday, August the thirty-first, we were on a visit 
 to the Reis Effendi, a minister of the Turkish government, 
 holding a situation which answers to the office of our 
 Secretary of State. Two of the principal officers in the 
 Turkish army were sitting with him. The garden belonging 
 to this house was that in which Kleber was assassinated. 
 While we were conversing with the Reis, a Tartar came 
 into the room, saying, in the Turkish language, " Alexandria 
 is taken ! " Mr. Hammer, who was with us, interpreted 
 what the Tartar had said. To our great amazement, these 
 Turkish officers received this important intelligence in total 
 silence, without the slightest change of countenance, or 
 
 even 
 
 Visit to the 
 Reii Effendi. 
 
GRAND CAIRO. 
 
 even a look towards each other. Mr. Hammer said, he 
 believed they did not wish the people of Cairo to know that 
 the English were the captors. After a few minutes t'.ius 
 passed in silence and gravity, they began to whisper to 
 each other, and then wrote with a reed the name of the 
 Tartar who brought the news. Afterwards, addressing us, 
 the Reis asked if we had understood what the Tartar said. 
 We answered in the affirmative. " I do not," said he, 
 " place much faith in the news ; but I will send to the Vizier, 
 and inquire if he has received any despatches." Having 
 done this, an answer came, stating that Alexandria was not 
 taken, but that an armistice had taken place, and that the 
 French were in treaty for the surrender of the city. With 
 this welcome information we took our leave, and determined 
 instantly to hasten to the British camp, and to make Lord 
 Hutchinson acquainted with some particulars that had come 
 to our knowledge respecting the antiquities collected by the 
 trench in Egypt, all of which we knew to be deposited 
 in Alexandria. 
 
 Previous to our departure, it was necessary to collect as 
 rtuch additional information as possible, and especially with 
 regard to the Rosetta Tablet ' ; as there was no doubt but 
 erery artifice would be used to prevent our Commander- 
 in-chief from becoming acquainted with the place of its 
 concealment. A report had already foeen industriously 
 
 circulated, 
 
 201 
 
 CHAP. VI. 
 
 (l) See the account given of the discovery by Bouchard, Part II. of these Travels. 
 Set. I. Chap. X. p. 304, Note (3). Broxbourne, 1812. 
 
 VOL, III. 2 D 
 

 202 
 
 CHAP. VI. 
 
 First intel- 
 ligence of the 
 Alexandrian 
 Soros. 
 
 GRAND CAIRO. 
 
 circulated, that this stone had been sent to France. We 
 therefore waited upon the only person capable of furthering 
 our views in this respect, and whcse name it is no longer 
 necessary to conceal 1 . This person was no other than the 
 intelligent Carlo Rosetti, whose inquisitive mind and situa- 
 tion in the country had enabled him to become acquainted 
 with every thing belonging to the French army. In the 
 course of a conversation with him on the subject of the 
 Rosetta Stone, which he maintained to be still in Alexandria, 
 he informed the author, that something even of a more 
 precious nature was contained among the French plunder : 
 that they had removed, by force, a relique long held in 
 veneration among the inhabitants of Alexandria, after every 
 entreaty had failed for that effect ; and that they entertained 
 considerable apprehension lest any intelligence concerning 
 it should reach the English army: that Menou, and some 
 other of his officers, had used every precaution to prevent 
 the people of Alexandria from divulging the place of its 
 concealment, before it could be conveyed beyond the reach 
 of our forces. 
 
 Signor Rosetti' s remote situation, with regard to Alex- 
 andria, prevented his giving a more definite history of this 
 monument, or the place where it originally stood. It was, 
 he said, of one entire piece of stone, of an astonishing size, 
 and of a beautiful green colour : the French had taken it 
 from some mosque, where it was venerated by the Arabs : 
 
 and 
 
 (l) See " Tomb of Alexander," p. 31. 
 
GRAND CAIRO. 
 
 203 
 
 ard he ended by giving us a letter addressed to one of the chap, vi. 
 principal merchants in Alexandria, who, upon our arrival 
 in that city, would communicate any other information 
 we might require upon this subject. 
 
 The following day was passed in taking leave of our Preparation 
 
 for departure 
 
 trends, and in preparation tor our departure. We had from Cairo, 
 another audience of the Yizier, who made several inquiries 
 abjut the Pyramids, and very kindly asked if there were any 
 th.ng else in Cairo, or its neighbourhood, which we might 
 wish to see. He then subjoined a few pertinent questions 
 concerning the embalmed birds found at Saccara; requesting 
 at the same time that we would send him one. This very 
 rare curiosity in a Turk surprised us ; for, in general, nothing 
 can exceed either their ignorance or their indifference, as to 
 literary intelligence. We sent him one of the jars which con- 
 tain the Ibis, unopened ; and another with the lid removed 
 and the interior visible, that he might examine its contents, 
 if he wished to preserve the other vessel as it was found. 
 "When we rose to take leave, the attendants presented each 
 of us with an embroidered handkerchief, according to the 
 usual custom in the East. 
 
 This day the tapestry destined for the covering of the Arrival of the 
 
 n -L. TVT r /~i Covering for 
 
 Caaba at Mecca arrived from Constantinople, by the wav ^^caaba at 
 of Syria. We were desirous of seeing the entry into Cairo 
 of the cavalcade by which it is accompanied, but found 
 it to be impossible, from the extreme danger attending it. 
 Mr. Hammer, although in the Arabian dress, dared not to 
 venture into the fanatical and furious mob that had as- 
 sembled upon the outside of the city. The people ran from 
 
 every 
 
 Mecca. 
 

 204 
 
 CHAP. VI. 
 
 Escape of 
 four Ladies. 
 
 GRAND CAI1U 
 
 every house and corner of Cairo, to greet its coming ; and 
 happy was the Mahometan who could get near* enough to 
 kiss a part of the trappings, or even the tail of the camel by 
 which it was carried. After parading it through the prin- 
 cipal streets, it was taken to the Citadel, to be kept until the 
 great Caravan of Pilgrims began its march to Mecca. Every 
 house in Cairo, upon this occasion, displayed the most 
 gaudy hangings ; but the principal colours were blue, scarlet, 
 crimson, and yellow. The whole city was one scene of fes- 
 tivity. In several houses we saw a figure made up of wool 
 or cotton, to resemble a sheep, but could r?ot learn for 
 what purpose it was so placed. 
 
 On Wednesday September the second, at twelve o'clock, 
 we set out from Cairo, passing along the Canal in our djerm, 
 and having on board four ladies, recommended to us for 
 protection by the Propaganda Missionaries. Mr= Hammer 
 was also on board, and rendered us great service in this 
 dangerous undertaking, by being in his Oriental habit. We 
 placed the women in our cabin, concealed by lattice-work 
 and boughs, Mr. Hammer and the rest of our party standing 
 before the entrance. The banks of the canal were co- 
 vered by Galeongics and Turkish troops, carousing, and 
 discharging their carabines. Had they only suspected the 
 presence of females in our boat, the consequences would 
 have been dangerous to us ; but the lives of these ladies 
 depended upon the success of the plan adopted for their 
 escape, many women being daily sacrificed by the Turks, 
 in consequence of having been married to, or having lived 
 with Frenchmen. In order to avoid being searched, or giving 
 
 rise 
 
GRAM) CAIRO TO ROSETTA. 
 
 205 
 
 rise to suspicion, we had chosen the most public time of the 
 day for passing the canal. Our Arab boatmen had promised 
 their assistance; and they were \ery faithful. When we 
 entered the boat, we believed, from their appearance, that our 
 passengers were old women. They sat muffled up, and com- 
 pletely concealed by coarse and thick veils, which covered not 
 only their faces but their persons. When we had cleared the 
 canal, and reached the open channel of the river, they took 
 off their veils, and we were surprised to find that they were 
 all young. One of them was very beautiful; she had been 
 married about four years before ; but her husband dying of 
 the plague, during the last summer, had left her a widow. 
 They accompanied us as far as Buiac, when meeting with 
 two of the Propagandists who had assisted their escape from 
 Cairo, and being unable, from the small size of our djerm, 
 to offer them suitable means of conveyance for their passage 
 to Rosetta, we engaged the cabin of a large barge preparing 
 to descend the Nile, where, secluded from the observation of 
 the other passengers, they might have secure and convenient 
 accommodation. 
 
 Upon our arrival at Bulac, we met Lord Hutchinson's bro- 
 ther upon the quay, and two other English officers, who had 
 just arrived with despatches for the Grand Vizier, containing 
 news of the capitulation then pending between our Com- 
 mander-in-chief and General Menou, for the surrender of 
 Alexandria. As they were unable to speak the language of 
 the country, we sent our interpreter to hire a party of 
 Arabs to conduct them to the English head-quarters in 
 Cairo. 
 
 At 
 
 CHAP. VI. 
 
■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■i^BHlHHHHHIi 
 
 206' 
 
 CHAP. VI. 
 
 Passage down 
 the Nile. 
 
 EGYPT. 
 
 At six o'clock p. m. we embarked again, and, having 
 lowered the sails, committed our djerm to the rapidity 
 of the river. Its course might rather be described as 
 a torrent than as a current. Although a strong contrary 
 wind prevailed during the whole of our voyage down the 
 Nile, we descended with even greater rapidity than we 
 had sailed in coming from Rosetta. The water in the 
 Nilometer of Rhouda had risen nine feet during the month 
 of August : at this time it wanted only two inches of ele- 
 vation to cover entirely the whole of the Corinthian column 
 on which the height of the inundation is measured, and it 
 was expected to rise yet for twenty days. The great heats 
 had evidently subsided ; although the mercury in Fahrenheit's 
 thermometer, this day at noon, stood at ninety degrees. 
 
 As we left Bulac, we had one of the finest prospects 
 in the world, presented by the wide surface of the Nile 
 crowded with vessels, the whole city of Cairo, the busy 
 throng of shipping at the quay, the Citadel and heights of 
 Mokatam, the distant Said, the Pyramids of Djiza and Sac- 
 cara, the Obelisk of Heliopolis, and the Tombs of the Sultans ; 
 all these were in view at the same time ; the greater objects 
 being tinged with the most brilliant effect of light it is pos- 
 sible to conceive ; while the noise of the waters, the shouts 
 of the boatmen, and the moving picture everywhere offered 
 by the Nile, gave a cheerful contrast to the stillness of the 
 Desert, and the steadfast majesty of monuments, beautifully 
 described by a classic bard as " looking tranquillity." We 
 continued our progress during the evening and the whole of 
 the night. The next morning, September the third, we found 
 
 ourselves 
 
GRAND CAIRO TO ROSETTA. 
 
 207 
 
 ourselves at Teranc, and went on shore to procure a little milk 
 for our breakfast. Here we rilled two large earthen jars with 
 Nile water; and having rendered them air-tight, we luted 
 them carefully with the mud of the Nile : then placing 
 them in wooden cases, we filled all the vacant spaces with 
 the same substance. The mud soon became dry, and 
 very hard; thus preserving the jars from the danger of 
 being broken by any shock which the cases containing 
 them might afterwards sustain ; and also, by the total 
 exclusion of atmospheric air, preventing any change from 
 taking place in the chemical constituents of the water. 
 In this state they were sent, one to the University of 
 Cambridge, and another to Professor Jacquin at Vienna. 
 It is not yet known what chemical union takes place in 
 Nile water, when the addition of pounded almonds causes 
 it to precipitate the substances it holds in a state of imperfect 
 solution : this is the common mode adopted in Egypt 
 for clarifying the water. The only result we have been able 
 to obtain, from the most careful chemical analysis of the 
 Nile water, proves it to contain the carbonates of Magnesia, 
 Lime, and Iron ; the MUriat of Soda; and a small portion of 
 Silex and Alumine. But it is one of the purest waters 
 known ; remarkable for its easy digestion by the stomach, 
 and for its salutary qualities in all the uses to which it is 
 applied 1 . The mud, or slime, left by this water is found to 
 
 consist 
 
 CHAP. VI. 
 
 Chemical Ana- 
 lysis of the 
 Water and 
 Mud of the 
 River. 
 
 (1) " L'eau du Nil joint d'une grand purete : cette qualite la rend bien precieuse, 
 non seulement pour la preparation des alimens, mais encore pous les ai ts chymiques ou 
 elle pent remplacer l'eau de pluie dont ce pays est prive, et l'eau distillee." La Decade 
 Egyptienne, torn. I, p. 266. Au Kaire, An. 7- 
 
HHH ■ 
 
 208 
 
 CHAP. VI. 
 
 Remains of 
 the City of 
 Sa'is. 
 
 EGYPT. 
 
 consist principally of Alumine in a state of great purity : 
 it contains nearly half its weight of this substance ; the rest 
 is carbonate of Lime, Water, Carbon, Iron oxide, Silex, and 
 carbonate of Magnesia. The persons concerned in agri- 
 culture, in Egypt, regard it as a sufficient manure, without 
 any addition of dung 1 : this they reserve for other purposes, 
 and principally for fuel. 
 
 Having received information, from some Bedouin Arabs 
 inhabiting the Delta, of Ruins on the spot marked by 
 D'Anville as the situation of the antient City of 
 Sa'is, we determined to visit them. They are near to 
 a village now called S6'l Hajar, or Se el Hajar 2 : this 
 name, literally translated, signifies " The antient Sa'is.'" 
 These Ruins were not observed by the French during 
 their residence in Egypt : they seem to have been igno- 
 rant even of their existence 3 . The first notice of them 
 by Europeans occurs in the Travels of Egmont and 
 Heyman 4 ; and Mr. Bryant refers to the account given by 
 those Dutchmen, in his observations upon the locality 
 
 of 
 
 (1) " Agri ita,pingue hunt, ut stercoratione non egeant." (Prosper Alpinus.) Vby. 
 Decade Egypt, torn. I. p. 219. 
 
 (2) Mr. Hamilton, perhaps more judiciously, writes the name of this place 
 Sa-el-Haggar. (See jEgyptiaca, p.360. Lond. I8O9.) It has been here written as 
 nearly as possible to the manner in which the name is pronounced upon the spot. But 
 the Arabs make one word of it ; as Selhajar ; and some of them seemed to call it 
 Silhajar. Egmont and Heyman (vol. II. p. 1 13. Lond. 1 75Q.) wrote it Sa el Hajer. 
 
 (3) See Denon's account of the observations made by the French in Upper and 
 Lower Egypt. 
 
 (4) Travels through Part of Europe, Asia Minor, &c. Vol. II. p. 111. Lond. 1759. 
 
RUINS OF SAIS. 
 
 of Zoan\ The situation of Se'l Hajar is not laid downi in 
 any modern map; but our boatmen were acquainted with, it, 
 and they informed us that we should not reach it before 
 midnight. We therefore ordered them to anchor as soon 
 as they came near to the village, and to remain there until 
 day-light. The velocity with which we proceeded against 
 a violent north-west wind quite astonished us. Our boat 
 lay upon the water with her broadside to the current, and 
 was generally held in this position by the crew ; but 
 sometimes she was suffered to float as the stream carried 
 her, turning about in all possible directions. 
 
 The next morning, Friday, September the fourth, being 
 told by our boatmen that we were close in with Se'l 
 Hajar, we rose a little before day-light, to take a hasty 
 breakfast, and set out for the Ruins. As soon as the 
 dawn appeared, we landed upon the eastern side of the 
 river, a little to the south of Rachmanie ; near the place 
 where a canal, passing across the Delta, joins the Pelusiac 
 with th<e Canopic branch of the Nile. About half a mile 
 from the shore we came to the village of SS'l Hajar, and 
 found the Arab peasants already at their work. They were 
 employed in sifting soil to lay upon their corn land, among 
 evident remains of antient buildings. The present village 
 of Sd'l Hajar seems to be situated in the suburban district 
 of the antient city ; for as we proceeded hence, in an eastern 
 direction, we soon discerned its vestiges. Irregular heaps, 
 
 containing 
 
 209 
 
 CHAP. VI. 
 
 (5) See Observations relating to various Parts of Antient History, by Jacob Bryant,, 
 p. 312. Camb.1767, 
 
 VOL. III. 2 E 
 
k«Z 
 
 HHBHHHiHi 
 
 I9SE IMUMMMW — MB BjfllnDTin - ' ~ -r.i.. ... , ..r i ,. ... .. 
 
 ■■H 
 
 210 
 
 CHAP. VI. 
 
 FROM GRAND CAIRO TO ROSETTA. 
 
 containing ruined foundations which had defied the labours 
 of the peasants, appeared between the village, and some more 
 considerable remains farther towards the north-east. The 
 earth was covered with fragments of antient terra cotia, 
 which the labourers had cast out of their sieves. At the 
 distance of about three furlongs we came to an immense 
 quadrangular in closure, nearly a mile wide, formed by high 
 walls or rather mounds of earth facing the four points of 
 the compass, and placed at right angles to each other, so 
 as to surround a spacious area. In the centre of this was 
 another conical heap, supporting the ruins of some building, 
 whose original form cannot now be ascertained. The ram- 
 parts of this inclosure are indeed so lofty, as to be visible 
 from the river ; although at this distance the irregularity of 
 their appearance might cause a person ignorant of their real 
 nature to mistake them for natural eminences 1 . In their 
 present appearance, they seem to correspond with the ac- 
 count given of a similar inclosure at San, or Tanis 2 , by a 
 
 friend 
 
 (1) See the Vignette to this Chapter. 
 
 (2) It m3y be proper to mention, that the learned Jacob Bryant, in his dissertation 
 upon the situation of Zoan, distinguishes this city from Tanis, and confounds it with 
 Heliopolis : (See Olservations relating to various Parts of Antient History, p. 301. 
 Cami. 1767.) Until M. Larcher shall have written his promised dissertation upon the 
 two cities which bore the name of Heliopolis, and better evidence be given for the notion 
 of a Pseudo- Heliopolis upon the Arabian side of the Nile, the following localities will be 
 here assigned for the three cities, Sai's, Tanis, and Heliopolis : — for the first, Se'l Hajar ; 
 for the second, San ; for the third, Matarieh. M. Larcher's doubts upon this subject 
 are so closely allied to the following remarks made by Bryant, that it is impossible to 
 believe they had not a common origin : indeed, the French writer seems almost 
 to have literally translated Bryant's words. " There were two cities named Heliopolis ; 
 
 OF WHICH I SHALL HAVE A GREAT DEAL TO SAY HEREAFTER. * * * » * This is 
 
 a cir- 
 
RUINS OF SAIS. 
 
 811 
 
 friend of our party, who visited the Pyramids with us, and t CHAP - VI - 
 who was engaged in a voyage down the Nile at the time 
 we were employed among the Ruins of Sais 3 . The water 
 of the river, in consequence of the inundation, had obtained 
 access to this inclosure, so as to form a small lake around 
 the conical heap of ruins which stood in the middle of the 
 area. Perhaps it was thus admitted in antient times ; as the 
 vast rampart of the inclosure, both in its bulk and ele- 
 vation, render it well calculated to contain water. The 
 description given by Herodotus of a sepulchre" at Sais is so 
 applicable to the general appearance of this place, that 
 perhaps the evidence it affords may be deemed almost con- 
 clusive as to the locality of the city. He says it stood 
 within the sacred inclosure, behind the temple of Minerva ; 
 mentioning also a shrine*, in which were obelisks ; and near 
 
 those 
 
 a circumstance that: has escaped the notice, not only of all the moderns, but of most of 
 the Antients." ('See Bryant, Observat. &c. p. 82. Note 2. Camb. 1767.) " II y avoit 
 deux villes," says Larcher, "de ce nom (HeliopolisJ . * * « * * Ceci auroit besoin 
 d' etre appuye de preuves, mais comme cela exigeroit une dissertation fort longue, je 
 :.e ferai probablement dans une memoire a part. Table Geographique de I'His- 
 toire d'Herodote, pp. 171, 172. Paris, 1/86. 
 
 (3) William Hamilton, Esq. F. A. S. one of his Majesty's Under-Secretaries of State, 
 author of " Remarks on several Parts of Turkey," of which only Part the First, under 
 the title of JEgypliaca, has yet appeared. It is to be hoped that Mr. Hamilton's other 
 important avocations will not prevent the continuation of this valuable work. For his 
 account of the situation of San, and the present appearance of its ruins, see JEgyptiaca, 
 p. 382. Lond. I8O9. A Map of their Topography, and a Plan of the Ruins, as they were 
 discovered by the French, are given in Plate xvu of Denon's large work. In the same 
 plate may be seen also a Plan of an Inclosure and Ruins near Beibeth, which exactly re- 
 presents the present appearance of the inclosure at Sais. 
 
 (4) Herodot. Euterpe, c. 170. Herodotus says he was not permitted to name the 
 person to whom this sepulchre belonged. 
 
 (5) Tf/xtvoK. Euterpe, e. 170. 
 

 
 FROM GRAND CAIRO TO ROSETTA. 
 
 those obelisks a lake, flanked with stone, equal in size to 
 
 the Lake Trocho'is at Delos. But the form of the lake, 
 
 according to him, was circular. Nocturnal solemnities 
 
 were exhibited upon it, according to a custom still kept up 
 
 at Grand Cairo, at the overflowing of the Nile. The 
 
 solemnities of Minerva at Sais were reckoned to hold the 
 
 third rank in importance among all the festivals of Egypt'. 
 
 It was the metropolis of Lower Egypt 2 ; and its inhabitants 
 
 were originally an Athenian colony. Egmont and Heyman 
 
 found here a very curious Inscription 3 in honour of Marcus 
 
 Aurelius Antoninus, its benefactor, certain of whose 
 
 titles are given 4 : 
 
 AYTOKPA- 
 
 (1) Herodot. ibid. c. 169. The principal solemnities were held at Bubastus, in 
 honour of Diana. Those of Busiris, in honour of Isis, held the second rank. Minerva 
 was worshipped at -Saw under the name of Neith, according to Plato and Plutarch. 
 
 (2) Kai >; Id'tc [xrjTpoiroXis r^«. Kara j^upac. Strabon. Geogr. lib.-x.xW. p. 1137 
 ed. Oxo?i. 
 
 (3) Egmont and Heyman's Travels, vol.11, p. 112. Lond. 175Q. 
 
 (4) As this Inscription is the only one which has been found by the moderns at Sais, 
 in any legible characters 3 and is, moreover, materially connected with the history of the 
 city ; and as the work which contains it is now become rare ; the author hopes its 
 repetition here will not be deemed superfluous. — Another Inscription, of much greater 
 celebrity, is preserved by Plutarch (De hid. et Osir. c. Q.), as it existed upon the 
 pedestal of Minerva's statue at Sais. Kircher has attempted to shew the manner in 
 which it was engraven. It was, in all probability, written in the Sacred characters ; but, 
 if it were a Greek inscription, it might, from its antiquity and the number of the letters, 
 have stood in the following order : 
 
 ErnEiMinANTorEr 
 
 ONOXKAIONKAI EZO 
 MENONKAITONEMON 
 
 nEnAONOYAEixnne 
 
 NHTOIAHEKAAYtEN 
 
RUINS OF SAIS. 
 
 AYTOKPATOPAKAICAPA 
 MAPKONAYPHAIONANTX2NEINON 
 CEBACTONAPMHNIAKONMHAIKON 
 nAPGIKONMEriCTON 
 
 HnOAICTONEYEPTETHN 
 
 They saw also the colossal statue of a female, with hiero- 
 glyphics, the head of which had been broken off and re- 
 moved to Cairo. Fourteen camel-loads of treasure were 
 said to have been found among the Ruins. Our inquiry after 
 antiquities was, however, for a long time unsuccessful ; and 
 we began to despair of carrying from Sai's any thing be- 
 longing to the antient city, except our description of the 
 place, and a slight sketch of the in closure, as seen from the 
 river 5 . The French had so often stripped and terrified the 
 inhabitants of other parts of the Delta, that, although Sa'is 
 had hitherto escaped their visitation, the mere coming of 
 strangers filled the Arabs with distrust and alarm. However, 
 the sight of a fewnewly-coined/mrtffo presently subdued their 
 apprehensions, and we were surrounded by men, women, 
 and children, bringing, as at Saccdra, a number of curious 
 antiquities. Among these were various fragments of antient 
 sculpture, formed of dark grey Granite, of Hornblende Por- 
 phyry*, and of the sort of Trap which Winkelmann 7 and 
 
 others 
 
 213 
 
 CHAP. VI. 
 
 (5) See the Vignette to this Chapter. 
 
 (6) This substance is the Ner. e lianco of the Italian lapidaries (See Ferbers Trav. in 
 Italy, p. 217. Lond. \776-) It consists of white opaque crystals of Feldspar, which owe 
 their colour to decomposition, imbedded in black Hornblende. The word Porphyry 
 may now be used to denote any compound mineral containing crystals of Feldspar. Thus 
 we have, Hirnblende Porphyry, Pitchstone Porphyry, Serpentine Porphyry, &c. &c. 
 
 (7) CEuwes de Winkelmann, torn. I. p. 168. Paris, An 2 de la Republique. 
 
214 
 
 FROM GRAND CAIRO TO ROSETTA. 
 
 CHAP. VI. 
 
 Bronze 
 Heliques. 
 
 others' have called green basaltes. This last substance has been 
 described as one of the hardest materials of antient art : it is 
 certainly one of the most durable, for the works executed in 
 it retain their original polish as perfect as when they issued 
 from the hands of the sculptor. We procured also a number 
 of bronze reliques. From the state of decomposition in 
 which these appeared, as well as from the circumstances of 
 their form, they seemed to be of high antiquity. The bronze 
 itself has since been analyzed, and is found to consist of 
 copper and tin ; a compound common to almost all the 
 brazen works of the Antients. We bought of the peasants 
 a bronze tripod, originally intended for a lamp ; also a small 
 bronze bust of Ammon, with the remarkable appendage of 
 tvings, and a lions paw for its pedestal 2 . Perhaps it was 
 originally an antient weight. Its very great antiquity may 
 be determined by the shape of the wings, which are curved 
 upwards from the back of the head. This peculiarity is 
 found only in the works of artists belonging to the earliest 
 ages, as we learn from the sculpture and coinage of Greece, 
 particularly of Corinth. They brought also a bronze 
 image of Orus, formerly worn as an amulet, together with 
 a number of Lares and other amulets, similar to those 
 already described in the account of the antiquities found at 
 Saccara. One of the former, in the shape of a Mummy, 
 similar to Nos. 12 and 13, in the Plate representing the 
 Antiquities found at Saccara, but of larger size, deserves 
 more particular notice 3 . The substance of it is porcelain, 
 
 resembling 
 
 (1) " Basaltes Orientalis viridis" (Ferler, uli supra, p. 233.) "Extremely hard,, 
 homogeneous, and compact, without any crystallizations." 
 
 (2) See Nos. 1 and 2, of Plate annexed. (3) See Nos. 3, 4, of Plate. 
 
i; lilUr*J,„J,l> 
 
 ANT IQU IT ( BS found al sa [S . 
 
 Tublished i ',/ niSu.by T.Caddl till iDantt.Stnmd. Imdm 
 
RUINS OF SAIS 
 
 215 
 
 Sceptre. 
 
 resembling the sort of earthenware called Delft ; and chap. vi. 
 it offers, perhaps, the most antient specimen of the art 
 in the world. The interior exhibits a pale baked clay, 
 and the exterior is covered with a highly vitrified var- 
 nish. The lower part of the figure has been broken 
 off near the feet ; but all the upper part is entire. It 
 has a long narrow beard, hanging from the extremity of 
 the chin ; and below the breast are five lines of an hierogly- 
 phical inscription. The hands are crossed upon the breast ; 
 sustaining against either shoulder such perfect models of the 
 symbol which Kircher has denominated Hieralpiia\ that it Aratriform 
 is impossible we can remain any longer in doubt respecting 
 its real signification. The subject has been before alluded 
 to'; but something may yet be added for its illustration; for, 
 in fact, it is here rendered more evident that an antient Plough 
 was the archetype of an Egyptian character, common in hiero- 
 glyphic writing. Upon this figure the entire model of the 
 instrument is complete ; and even the twisted cordage, 
 binding the plough-share to the handle, is distinctly repre- 
 sented 6 . But, in order to remove all remaining doubt con- 
 cerning this symbol, we perceive in the left hand of the 
 figure a stouter cord 7 , from which is suspended a Harrow 
 
 hanging 
 
 (4) See A, B, of No. 3. 
 
 (5) See Chap. IV. pp. Ill, 112. 
 
 (6) See m, n, of No. 3, in the Plate annexed. — In the beautiful designs by Roncalli, 
 of the Obeliscus Campensis, engraved by Antonini, for Zoega's work " Be Origine et 
 Usu Obeliscorwn," published at Rome in 1797, the delineation of this symbol, as a 
 Plough, is so distinct, that even the rings attached to the cordage are visible. See No. 5 
 of the Plate, as copied from that work. 
 
 (7) See x, x, of Nos. 3 and 4. 
 
-<■• — --■■- 
 
 216 
 
 CHAP. VI. 
 
 FROM GRAND CAIRO TO ROSETTA. 
 
 hanging behind the left shoulder 1 . We see clearly, therefore, 
 the kind of instrument mentioned by Diodorus 2 , who says 
 the priests and kings of Egypt bore a sceptre in the form of 
 a plough. An instrument of this kind was said to be in use 
 among the Celtic tribes 3 . The inhabitants of St. Kilda, in the 
 Hebrides, use it as a sort of spade, or hand-plough. But in 
 the north of Sweden and Finland, a different race of men 
 use a plough of the same form, upon a larger scale: it is 
 there drawn by cattle; and it is further distinguished by 
 having a double, instead of a single plough-share. Linnceus 
 first observed this very antient model of the plough, 
 during his travels in his native country ; and a repre- 
 sentation of the Finland plough has been here introduced, 
 as it was copied from one of his drawings \ This curious 
 relique therefore preserves a model of one of the most 
 antient instruments of agriculture known in the world 5 ; 
 
 the 
 
 (1) See 2, of No. 4. 
 
 (2) Diodor. Sic. lib. iv. 
 
 (3) See p. 1 1 1 of this Volume. 
 
 (4) See No. 6 of the Plate. 
 
 (5) Osiris is said to have constructed his own plough. Tibullus (lib. i. eleg. 7.) 
 makes him the first husbandman. There were two methods of using the very simple 
 instrument here represented ; one being the more antient, but the shape of the plough 
 remaining the same ; which was that of an Alpha, with one side shorter than the \ 
 other, As a hand-plough, the vertex was capped with brass or iron, which the \j 
 husbandman forced into the ground with his foot. It was then held in this position, y 
 and in this manner it is now used by the natives of St. Kilda. When used as a draft- 
 plough, which must have been suggested by the improvement of a later age, the shorter 
 
 limb of the Alpha was tipped with metal, and it was then held in this position, ■*— r* 
 
 as it is now used by the inhabitants of Ostro-Bothnia. The hand-phugh was of 
 course the antient sceptre j not only on account of its antiquity, but as being the only 
 portable instrument. 
 
RUINS OF SAIS. 
 
 217 
 
 the primeval plough of Egypt, and of the Eastern world ; chap.vi. 
 
 held in veneration from the earliest ages, and among all 
 
 nations ; considered as a sacred symbol ; an emblem of 
 
 power and dignity ; a sceptre fit for kings, and even Gods, to 
 
 wear 6 ; a type of Nature's bounty, and of peace on earth 7 . 
 
 To this veneration of the plough may be referred all the 
 
 mysteries of Ceres, and many of the most sacred solemnities, 
 
 the rites and the festivals, of Egypt and of Greece. Such 
 
 is the explanation of Kircher's Hieralpha, in a symbolical 
 
 view. That, as an archetype, it subsequently gave birth to an 
 
 alphabetical sign, which was introduced among the characters 
 
 used in Egyptian writing, is very probable ; for a gradual 
 
 change from the pictured forms of visible objects to written 
 
 types, is manifest to any one who will give himself the trouble 
 
 to collect and to compare the various modifications which the 
 
 hieroglyphics have sustained 8 . 
 
 Having 
 
 (0) " In antient times, the sacred plough employ'd 
 
 " The Kings, and awful fathers of Mankind." Thomson. 
 
 (7) •" And they shall beat their swords into plough-shares." Isaiah ii. 4. 
 
 (8) Mr. Hamilton's observations upon the rolls of Papyrus which are found in the 
 Mummies of the Thebai'd confirm this opinion in a remarkable manner. — "Of the 
 four," says he, " which I brought to England, one is in the British Museum ; another in 
 the possession of the Society of Antiquaries : the other two are but fragments ; one of 
 them written in the common Egyptic character, that of the other approaching much 
 more to the hieroglyphical mode of writing. 
 
 " This circumstance had first induced me to consider, in a Memoir submitted to the 
 Society of Antiquaries, the vulgar character, or lyyapia ypdfxfxara, of antient Egypt, as 
 having derived its origin from the picture-writing of earlier ages : and I am further 
 inclined to that opinion by the observation of many peculiarities in which they still 
 resemble ; these resemblances becoming more and more distant, in proportion to the 
 remoteness of the period of such writings from the original institution of their hierogly- 
 phical archetype. In some rolls of Papyrus, almost every letter bears a faint resemblance 
 to some visible object, as an eye, bird, serpent, knife, &c. j whereas in others it is very 
 difficult to trace it : and at the date of the Inscription on the Rosetta Stone, the copy 
 VOL. III. 2 F seems 
 

 FROM GRAND CAIRO TO ROSETTA. 
 
 Having by this time gained the confidence and good- will 
 of the Arabs, we might have extended our researches by 
 making an excavation within the antient inclosure, if bur 
 time had not been limited. They told us, that it was 
 their frequent practice, when they dug up stones with 
 hieroglyphic figures, to bury them again. And were this 
 not true, it is very improbable that all the colossal works 
 which once adorned the, city of Sais have been removed or 
 destroyed. From the account given of them by Herodotus, 
 we may conclude that subsequent generations were unable to 
 carry off such stupendous masses of stone, for nothing less 
 than gunpowder would have been equal to their demolition. 
 Amasis constructed at Sais a propylceam in honour of 
 Minerva, which in magnitude and grandeur surpassed every 
 thing before seen, of such enormous size were the stones 
 employed in the building and in its foundation. Herodotus, 
 enumerating the decorations given by Amasis to this 
 edifice, mentions colossal statues of prodigious magnitude, 
 under the appellation of Androsphinges' . A statue of this 
 kind was discovered soon after we left Egypt 2 . But 
 
 the 
 
 seems so much to have degenerated from the original, as to leave no means whatever of 
 forming a comparison between the two : and we know that there are instances of 
 both characters being applied to the same use ; some few rolls of Papyrus having already 
 been published, written in what is called the Sacred Character." See Hamilton s /Egyp- 
 tiaca, p. 407. Lond. I8O9. 
 
 (1) Tovto Si, tcoXoffffoi/t fuydXovt; teal 'ANAPOS^INrAi Treptfii'iKcac; dvtdt}Kt. 
 
 " Quinetiam ingentes colossos, et immanes ANDROSPHINGAS, ibidem posuit." 
 
 Herodot. Euterpe, c. 175. Ed. Galei. 
 
 t 
 
 (2) Soe Hamilton's iEgyptiaca, p. 382. Lond. I8O9. 
 
RUINS OF SAIS. 
 
 219 
 
 the most surprising work at Sais was a monolithal shrine', chap , vi. 
 brought from Upper Egypt ; in the conveyance of which, 
 from Elephantine, two thousand persons were employed, 
 during three years 4 . A celebrated colossus, given by 
 Amasis to the temple of Vulcan at Memphis, had also 
 its duplicate at Sa'is, of the same size, and in the same 
 attitude 5 . Within the sacred inclosure were buried the 
 sovereigns of the Saitic dynasty 6 ; and it may be sup- 
 posed that the ransacking of such a ccemetery would lead 
 to the discovery of many curious antiquities, and even give 
 probability to the narrative related by the inhabitants of 
 Se"l Hajar to Egmont and Heyman 7 , concerning the camel- 
 loads of treasure which were found upon the spot. Our 
 next inquiry was directed towards the mosque ; suspecting 
 that, in the materials employed for this building, something 
 more might come to light. After a slight hesitation, they 
 also granted us permission to carry on our researches here, 
 and admitted us to view the interior of the structure. The 
 fragments of some antient columns appeared in the walls ; 
 and in the steps, before the entrance, we noticed a large 
 
 slab 
 
 (3) Count Caylus wrote a dissertation upon this extraordinary structure. Voy, Mem. 
 de VAcademie, iffc. tom.wxx. Hist. p. 23. 
 
 (4) Herodot. Euterpe, c. 175. 
 
 (5) Ibid. c. 176. The colossal hand of granite, which is now in the British Museum, 
 W3s found by the French upon the site of antient Memphis, between Djiza and Saccara, 
 and believed by them to have belonged to one of the statues mentioned by Herodotus, 
 as being near the Temple of Vulcan. 
 
 (6) Herodot. ibid. c. 169. For an account of this dynasty, see Kircher, CEdip. 
 jEgypt. torn. i. c. 10. p. 97. Rom. 1652. 
 
 (7) See Egmont and Heyman's Travels, vol. II. p. 112. Lond. 1759. 
 
220 
 
 CHAP. VI. 
 
 Hieroglyphic 
 Tablet. 
 
 RUINS OF SAIS. 
 
 slab of polished Syenite. Having with some difficulty ex- 
 tricated and turned the stone, we found it to be the base 
 or pedestal of one of those upright statues which seem to 
 correspond with the notion entertained of the Androsphinxes 
 mentioned by Herodotus > although it does not answer in its 
 size to the proportion necessary for the colossal figures 
 alluded to by the historian. It is now in the Vestibule of 
 the University Library at Cambridge \ One foot only be- 
 longing to the statue now remains upon this pedestal. 
 What renders it peculiarly interesting is, that it exhibits, 
 among the characters of an hieroglyphic tablet which is 
 quite entire, a perfect representation of the Ibis. The other 
 signs are also such accurate figures of visible objects, 
 that almost all their archetypes may be enumerated ; either 
 by comparing them with things found among barbarous 
 nations ; or with natural phenomena ; or with existing anti- 
 quities ; or by explaining the ideas they are intended to 
 convey, according to facts derived from the study of anti- 
 quities in general. That the Reader may therefore compare 
 a few observations upon this subject with an engraved 
 representation of these hieroglyphics, they will be given 
 according to a numerical order corresponding with ciphers 
 upon the Plate. 
 
 (1) See " Greek Marbles" No. II. p. 3. Camb. 180Q. 
 
 No.l. 
 
M^B 
 
 ■■'< W mmm 
 
 ,'"■, 
 
 nil: 1 ! 
 
 IBiflSlliif * 
 •- * ■'■-' 
 
 "ilillflMI* 
 
 , < : m 
 
 ■■■ 
 
 a 
 
 lllillSI 
 
 ■IBSm 
 
 
 ■ 
 
 fill 
 
 Mr 
 
 I! Vv t , I 1 
 
 m 1 
 
 II 1 1 
 
 lit ft 
 
 :'.■■ 
 
 ■■ : :l1 
 
 IIwm 
 
 : ilBII! 
 
 Ill 
 
 ||1| 
 
 11 Ik 
 
 ■■;■' 
 
 IS, 
 
 
 •m 
 
HIEROGLYPHIC TABLET FOUND AT SA1S. 
 
 221 
 
 CHAP. VI. 
 
 N. B. See the Plate. 
 
 No. 1. 1 he Segment of a Circle, thus placed, is believed, by almost all writers Enumeration 
 upon the subject of Egyptian Hieroglyphics, to signify the Loiver Archetypes. 
 Hemisphere. May it not rather denote a period of time ? Some- 
 times a small Orb is placed within it, as at No. 31. 
 
 2. An Egyptian Si strum, with four Chords, or Bars, as described by- 
 
 Plutarch (De Isid. et Osir. c. 63.) the sound of which was believed 
 to avert and drive away Typhon. Plutarch has given a particular 
 account of this instrument. 
 
 " Quid nunc AZgyptia prosunt 
 
 Sistra?" 
 
 3. Two Battle-axes, fashioned like weapons brought from the South Seas, 
 with stone blades, fastened to wooden handles. 
 
 4. The Scarabcean Ball; — among the Egyptians, a Type of the Sun. See 
 
 Kircher (Edip. JE>gypt. &c. 
 
 5. Perhaps an antient Auger, used in boring stones for lapidary inscrip- 
 tions, &c. 
 
 6. An Eagle, as seen on Medals of the Ptolemies. 
 
 7. The Testudo, or two-stringed Lyre ; the fopptyZ of Homer. 
 
 8. Another Musical Instrument. 
 
 9. A supposed Type of the Upper Hemisphere, as contrasted with No. 1. 
 
 10. The Sawed Inclosure of Sais, and Coemetery of their Kings. See Hero- 
 
 dotus, Strabo, &c. 
 
 11. A cumbent Sceptre, or War Instrument. 
 
 12. Testudo, and Battle-axe. 
 
 13. The appearance of a Line, as seen here, inclosing some of the hiero- 
 glyphic characters, which are thereby separated from the rest, may 
 possibly be nothing more than a. parenthetical mark. These are com- 
 mon on the Obelisk of Heliopolis. The characters so included repre- 
 sent the Scarabcean Bull, as at No. 4. and two Vessels of Terra Coita, 
 with forms often observed among antient Vases of Earthen-ware. 
 
 14. Represents the same instrument as at No. 2. and a copper Knife-blade, 
 like those which are found in the Catacombs of Saccdra, and other 
 Sepulchres of Egypt. 
 
 15. Same 
 

 
 
 222 HIEROGLYPHIC TABLET 
 
 CHAP. VI. No. 15. Same as No. 4. 
 
 16. A Fillet, seen upon representations of Apis ; with the square Soros, or 
 
 Chest, in which his remains were deposited. 
 
 17. An Owl. 
 
 18. Forceps, as found in Greek sepulchres ; used to fasten garments. 
 
 19. Same as No. 1. 
 
 20. The Horns of Apis. (Et comes in pompd Uorniger Apis erat.") Such 
 
 was the symbol of Power and Divinity over all the Eastern world. 
 "And the ten horns which thou sawest are ten Kings." 
 Rev. xvii. 12. See also Psalms 18. 12. 75. 10. Dan. vii. 24 ; &x. &c« 
 
 21. Axes for beheading Victims. Instruments of the same form were used 
 in beheading cattle during the public festivals of Venice ; particularly 
 during the Carnival. 
 
 22. Entrances to the Adyta jEgyptiorum. (See Kircher, torn. I. p. 393. 
 Rom. 1652.) " And he brought me to the door of the court : 
 
 AND WHEN I LOOKED, BEHOLD A HOLE IN THE WALL. THEN SAID 
 HE UNTO ME, SON OF MAN, DIG NOW IN THE WALL. And WHEN 
 I HAD DIGGED IN THE WALL, BEHOLD A DOOR. So I WENT IN, AND 
 SAW; AND BEHOLD, EVERY FORM OF CREEPING THINGS, AND ABO- 
 MINABLE BEASTS, AND ALL THE IDOLS OF THE HOUSE OF ISRAEL, 
 POURTRAYED UPON THE WALL ROUND ABOUT." Ezekiel, ell. viii. 
 
 7, 8. 10. See also Eusebius, lib. ii. Prcep. Evang. Justin. Qutest. ad 
 Orihodoxos ; &c. 
 
 23. Small Vessels of pale Clay, exactly of this form, baked only by the Sun's 
 
 heat, are found in digging among the Antiquities of Sai's, and also in 
 the Catacombs of Saccara. 
 
 24. This strange looking figure can only be comprehended by comparing 
 
 it with other representations of the same thing, where the object is 
 more distinctly delineated. It is intended for an angle of the elbow, 
 with the lower part of the arm and hand extended horizontally ; the 
 hand containing a cup, or small vase. It is very perfectly represented 
 in Zoega's Plate of the Oleliscus Campensis. 
 
 25. Two Battle-axes. 
 
 26. Same as No. 10. 
 
 27. Same as No. 5. 
 
 28. Vessels of Terra Cotta, as found at Sai's. 
 
 59. Same 
 
FOUND AT SAIS. 
 
 223 
 
 No. 29. 
 
 30. 
 
 31. 
 
 32. 
 33. 
 34. 
 
 35, 
 37- 
 38. 
 39- 
 
 40. 
 41. 
 42. 
 43. 
 44. 
 45. 
 46. 
 47- 
 48. 
 
 Same as No. 4. The mark towards the centre exhibits only a con- 
 vexity found in almost all hieroglyphics, rising from their inferior 
 surface. 
 
 Is an Astronomical Sign; and it proves that the antient symbol of 
 Byzantium was derived from Egypt. Upon the Byzantine medals, the 
 Star appears above the Crescent, which is here given in an inverted 
 position. It is still seen upon the walls of the Grand Signior's palace 
 at Constantinople; near the gilded iron gate in the Gardens of the 
 Seraglio, by which the Sultan enters from his winter apartments. 
 The Turks display it upon their banners. The very antient tradition 
 preserved in Athenaeus, of ' the Sun's sailing over the Ocean every 
 night in a Cup,' may possibly refer to this part of the Egyptian 
 Mythology. (See Athen. p. 469. Also Bentley upon Phalaris, p. 81.) 
 It seems to correspond with representations seen upon heads of Isis, 
 and also of Ceres, where an entire Orb is placed within a Crescent. 
 
 Same as No. 1. distinguished only by containing an Orb, or Scarabaan 
 Ball. 
 
 Similar to No. 30. 
 
 Same as No. 31. 
 
 Triglyph, as seen in Doric Architecture. This iigure occurs as a written 
 character in the antient vernacular language of Egypt. 
 
 & 36. Same as No. 31. 
 
 Same as No. 29. 
 
 Same as No. l. 
 
 The Serpent, as described by Herodotus; held sacred in antient Egypt, 
 and still venerated by its modern inhabitants. Ceres was represented 
 among the Greeks in a Car drawn by Serpents: and our Saviour used 
 the expression, " Be ye wise as serpents, and harmless as doves." 
 
 Same as No. 9. 
 
 Perhaps a Dyke, or Canal. 
 
 An Owl 
 
 Same as No. 10. 
 
 Same as No. 7. 
 
 Same as No. 28. 
 
 Same as No. 29. 
 
 Head of an Ostrich, and of an Ox or Heifer. 
 
 A. well-known sign, used by the Antients, upon their medals, gems, 
 vases, &x. to denote Water. The representations of ( 10 crossing the 
 
 Sea' have frequently no other sign to signify water than this type 
 beneath the figure of the Heifer. 
 
 49. The 
 
 CHAP. VI. 
 

 224 
 
 HIEROGLYPHIC TABLET 
 
 CHAP. VI. No. 49. The Coluber Cerastes, or Horned Viper, a native of Egypt. See Hassel- 
 quist, p. 221. Lond. 1766. Linn. Syst. Nat. p. 217. 
 
 50. Same as Aft. 20. 
 
 5 1 . A Lachrymatory, between two Strigils. 
 
 52. Perhaps the Ham-string ; an instrument of punishment used in the 
 East. 
 
 53. An Egyptian Altar. 
 
 54. Same as No. 24. 
 
 55. A perfect representation of the Ibis. That which Dr. Shaw has 
 given, as found upon a Sardonyx, is far from being so faithful a 
 portrait of this animal. See Shaw's Travels, Plate facing p. 409. 
 Lond. 1757. 
 
 56. Same as No. 23. 
 
 57. 8c 58. Unknown. 
 
 59. Same as No. 1. 
 
 60. Same as No. 5. 
 
 61. Unknown. 
 
 62. Same as No. 1. 
 
 63. A Dove. 
 
 64. Same as No. 1. 
 
 65. Same as No. 28. 
 
 66. Same as No. 29. 
 
 67. Same as No. 40, accompanied by the Thyrsus Scyllocyprius. See Kir- 
 cher, CEdip. JEgypt. torn. I. p. 277. Rom. 1652. 
 
 68. Unknown. 
 
 69. An Obelisk. 
 
 70. Same as No. 3. 
 
 71. Here the type of the Upper Hemisphere is introduced between the 
 figures of a Bird and one of those Crosses, but without a handle, men- 
 tioned by Ruffijius, and by Socrates Scholasticus, lib. v. c. 17. 
 
 72. Same as No. 22. 
 
 73. Unknown. 
 
 74. Same as No. 9. 
 
 75. Same as No. 69. 
 
 76. Three Axes. 
 77- Same as No. 1. 
 78. The same Bird appears at No. 71. Unknown. 
 
 79. Shews 
 
FOUND AT SAIS. 
 
 No. 79. Shews the only instance which occurs, in this Hieroglyphic Tablet, of 
 the mode by which the Priests compounded several archetypes into 
 one symbol. The Fillet, as at No. 16, is thrown over a sign of the 
 Upper Hemisphere 1 , as at No. 9 ; and these form a pedestal, supporting 
 a Dove, as at No. 63 ; and the Blade of a Knife, somewhat similar to 
 that seen at No. 14. 
 
 80. Seems also a part of the compound figure. in No. 79; being in the 
 same line with the extremities of the Fillet. 
 
 81. Unknown. 
 
 82. Same as No. 9. 
 
 83. Same as No. 69. 
 
 225 
 
 The reader will perhaps deem these observations of little 
 importance ; yet surely the first step towards any chance of 
 discovering a key to the Hieroglyphic characters will be that 
 which enables us to determine the archetypes whence the 
 letters were severally derived : for although these may 
 appear somewhat plainly delineated upon this very antient 
 Tablet, they are by no means so universally. As soon as 
 the full outline was modified, and approached nearer to 
 signs used as letters, the original forms were so altered that 
 they almost disappeared. Thus we find examples, in the 
 manuscripts taken from mummies, of a mode of writing, 
 where the representation of an animal, or of any other 
 visible object, only now and then appears, mingled with the 
 letters, and very imperfectly traced 2 . Nor was this the only 
 change that took place. The inscription upon this Tablet, 
 
 as 
 
 CHAP. VI. 
 
 (1) By these expressions, " Upper" and " Lower Hemisphere," ought properly to be 
 understood the Sun in the upper or lower hemisphere ; and, generally, an orb is repre- 
 sented in the semicircle. By the frst, the Egyptians denoted Ammonj by the second, 
 according to Jablonski, Serapis. See Jablonski's beautiful illustration of these signs; 
 Pantkeon JEgypt. torn. I. p. 235. Franco/. 1? 50. 
 
 (2) See Hamilton's JEgyptiaca, p. 407, &c. Lond. I8O9. 
 VOL. III. 2 G 
 
226 
 
 FROM GRAND CAIRO TO ROSETTA. 
 
 CHAP. VI. 
 
 Curious Torso 
 of an antient 
 Statue. 
 
 as it is evident, was intended to be read vertically, or from 
 top to bottom, according to the form now observed in the 
 vulgar writing of the Calmucks 1 , and some other Oriental 
 nations: but in process of time the horizontal manner of 
 tracing the signs was introduced, as we see by the in- 
 scriptions upon the tablet found at Saccara 2 ; and the 
 characters were then read from left to right, if we may 
 judge from the position of the figures introduced among 
 
 r 
 
 the hieroglyphics upon that stone. 
 
 When we had agreed with the Arabs for the purchase of 
 this Tablet, and for its safe conveyance on board the djerm, 
 we prepared to examine the interior of the Mosque. Here 
 we found, among other materials loosely put together for 
 the purpose of supporting a stone table, the finest piece of 
 Egyptian sculpture we had yet seen. This was the Torso of 
 a statue of the kind of trap mentioned before, or green 
 Oriental basalt. So perfect is its preservation, that the 
 polish upon its surface equals that of glass. A zone, covered 
 with hieroglyphics, fastens the apron round its waist ; and 
 this apron is believed to represent the leaf of some Egyp- 
 tian plant. But that which particularly distinguishes 
 this Torso, is the curious exhibition it offers of the process 
 used by the antient sculptors of Egypt in graving the 
 hieroglyphical symbols ; a part only of the graved work 
 being completed, and the rest of the figures sketched, as 
 delineations upon the stone, with great ingenuity and accu- 
 racy, preparatory to their incision. Another remarkable 
 
 circum- 
 
 (1) The sacred writing of the Calmucks is read from left to right, like our own. 
 See Part the First of these Travels, p. 335. Second Edit. 
 
 (2) Seep. 174, and the Plate. 
 
RUINS OF SAIS. 
 
 227 
 
 circumstance, but generally characterizing the best hiero- 
 glvphical sculpture, may be distinctly observed upon this 
 Torso. Although the engraved characters be "all of them 
 intagliated, and may be considered as intaglios, yet a bold 
 convexity is perceivable within each figure, rising in relief 
 from the inferior surface, like the workmanship of a Cameo*. 
 There is a third point of view in which this curious frag- 
 ment of the finest sculpture of Egypt is also entitled to 
 more particular regard ; not only in the University where 
 it is now placed, but from literary men in general, and 
 among all those who are interested in Ecclesiastical history. 
 The very first hieroglyphical character engraven upon the 
 back of this statue, is the Crux ansata ; the identical 
 type mentioned by early writers of the Church, as having 
 caused such a stir among Christians and Pagans, at the 
 destruction of the Heathen temples in Alexandria*. From 
 the time of RufHnus, of Socrates, and of Sozomen, this 
 type has occasionally exercised the ingenuity and the eru- 
 dition of the most learned scholars 5 . It is seen suspended 
 from a hook, which is fastened by its other extremity to a 
 
 globe 
 
 CHAP. VI. 
 
 Triple Hicro- 
 gram with the 
 symbol of the 
 Cross. * 
 
 (3) Johnson writes this word Camaieu, from Chamachuia ; but it is now become 
 sufficiently naturalized, under its present form, to admit of its being written according to 
 the common mode of pronouncing the word. Nicols, in his " Lapidary,'" chap. xxv. 
 p. 131, (printed at Cambridge in 1652,) wrote it both Chamehuia, and Cameus. The 
 Editors of the Edinburgh Encyclopedia, vol.V. Part I. Edin. 1812, have adopted the 
 word Cameo. 
 
 (4) See Chap. IV. p. 107, of this volume. 
 
 (5) Jamblichus, in an earlier period, had endeavoured to explain it. Among the 
 moderns, Kircher, Jablonski, our countryman Dr. Shaw, De Pauw, and others, have 
 all written upon this subject. - 
 
228 
 
 CHAP, VI. 
 
 RUINS OF SAIS. 
 
 globe or ball, evidently intended for the Sun \ Admitting 
 therefore the explanation of the Crux ansata, as given to us, 
 upon the testimony of converted Heathens, by RufTinus and 
 by Socrates Scholasticus 2 , and supposing the meaning of 
 these figures to be symbolical in this instance rather than 
 literal, we may explain the signification of this triple hiero- 
 glyphic without further conjecture ; for it plainly indicates 
 that Life to come proceeds from, and depends upon, the 
 Giver of Light. The Christians, says Socrates 3 , perceiving 
 that this great truth was couched under hieroglyphical signs, 
 and that the same signs did also prognosticate the downfall 
 of the Temple of Serapis, whenever it came to light, exulted 
 in the discovery, and made it the ground upon which 
 many of the Heathens were converted. After the same 
 manner, continues the historian 4 , did the Apostle St. Paul 
 convert many of the Athenians to the faith, by using for his 
 purpose a Heathen altar, which he found with an inscription 
 
 " To THE UNKNOWN GoD." 
 
 Having also purchased this Torso, and conveyed it on 
 board the vessel, as the day was now far advanced, we 
 prepared for our departure from Sais ; much gratified by 
 a view of the place, and by the acquisitions we had made in 
 so short a space of time. The Arabs expressed equal satis- 
 faction, for the whole village assembled to accompany us as 
 
 far 
 
 (1) See No.' y, of the last Plate. 
 
 (2) See Chap. IV. p. 10g, of this volume. 
 
 (3) Socrates Scholasticus, lib. v. c. 17- p. 2/6. Paris, 1668. 
 
 (4) Ibid. 
 
FROM GRAND CAIRO TO ROSETTA. 
 
 229 
 
 far as the river ; the women dancing, singing, and clapping chap. vj. 
 
 their hands ; and the men playing upon reed pipes, called 
 
 here Zumana\ Many of these women wore large bracelets 
 
 of ivory; and exhibited the same indecent gestures which 
 
 we had noticed among the dancing girls in our visit to 
 
 Saccara. They remained dancing upon the shore until we 
 
 lost sight both of them and of So" I Hajar. The Nile was 
 
 truly boisterous, and the rapidity of our descent rendered 
 
 our loss of time of less consequence : it was like a passage 
 
 of the rapids in some of the rivers that fall into the Gulph 
 
 of Bothnia ; and, towards evening, the turbulence of the 
 
 waves induced our boatmen to anchor, for a short time, at 
 
 the village of Mahallet Aboaali. The wind was less violent Mahaiiet 
 
 after sun-set ; and we passed Rachmanie during the night, 
 
 regretting that we could not see the great Canal which 
 
 supplied Alexandria with water from the river. 
 
 Before daylight in the morning, September the fifth, we Berinbai. 
 went to the village of Berinbai, to see the manner of hatch- 
 ing poultry, by placing their eggs in ovens, so frequently 
 mentioned by authors, and so well described by one of our 
 oldest travellers, George Sandys 6 . Notwithstanding this, 
 the whole contrivance, and the trade connected with it, are 
 accompanied by such extraordinary circumstances, that it re- 
 quired all the evidence of one's senses to give them credibility. 
 
 We 
 
 (5) It is the same instrument which we noticed at Saccara, under the name of 
 Zabuna. 
 
 (6) See " Relation of a Journey begun A.D. 1610," p. 125. Lond. 1637. 
 

 230 
 
 CHAP. VI. 
 
 Ovens for 
 hatching 
 Chickens. 
 
 FROM GRAND CAIRO 
 
 We were conducted to one of the principal buildings 
 constructed for this purpose; and entered by a narrow- 
 passage, on each side of which were two rows of chambers, 
 in two tiers, one above the other, with cylindrical holes, as 
 passages, from the lower to the upper tier. The floor of 
 the upper tier is grated and covered with mats, on which 
 is laid camel's dung ; somewhat resembling the manner of 
 placing hops, for drying, in English Oast-houses. We 
 counted twenty chambers, and in each chamber had been 
 placed three thousand eggs ; so that the aggregate of the 
 eggs then hatching amounted to the astonishing number of 
 sixty thousand. Of these, above half are destroyed in the 
 process. The time of hatching continues from autumn until 
 spring. At first, all the eggs are put in the lower tier. The 
 most important part of the business consists, of course, in 
 a precise attention to the requisite temperature : this we 
 would willingly have ascertained by the thermometer, but 
 could not adjust it to the nice test adopted by the Arab 
 superintendant of the ovens. His manner of ascertaining 
 it is very curious. Having closed one of his eyes, he 
 applies an egg to the outside of his eyelid ; and if the 
 heat be not great enough to cause any uneasy sensation, 
 all is safe ; but if he cannot bear the heat of the egg thus 
 applied t© his eye, the temperature of the ovens must be 
 quickly diminished, or the whole batch will be destroyed 1 . 
 During the first eight days of hatching, the eggs are kept 
 carefully turned. At the end of that time, the culling begins. 
 
 Everv 
 
 «/ 
 
 (1) We may therefore suppose the temperature about equal to blood-heat, or 100** 
 of Fahrenheit. 
 
TO ROSETTA. 
 
 231 
 
 Every egg is then examined, being held between a lamp v CHAP VI - 
 and the eye ; and thus the good are distinguished from the 
 bad, which are cast away. Two days after this culling, 
 the fire is extinguished ; then half the eggs upon the lower 
 are conveyed to the upper tier, through the cylindrical pas- 
 sages in the floor ; and the ovens are closed. In about ten 
 days more, and sometimes twelve, the chickens are hatched. 
 At this time a very singular ceremony ensues. An Arab 
 enters the ovens, stooping and treading upon stones placed so 
 that he may walk among the eggs without injuring them, 
 and begins clucking like a hen ; continuing this curious 
 mimicry until the whole are disclosed. We heard this noise, 
 and were equally surprised and amused by the singular 
 adroitness of the imitation. The chickens thus hatched are 
 then sold to persons employed in rearing them. Many are 
 strangely deformed ; and great numbers die, not only in 
 rearing, but even during the sale; for, to add to the extra- 
 ordinary nature of the whole undertaking, the proprietors 
 of these ovens do not give themselves the trouble of counting 
 the live chickens, in order to sell them by number, but 
 dispose of them, as we should say, by the gallon; heaping 
 them into a measure containing a certain quantity, for which 
 they ask the low price of a parak ; rather more than a 
 farthing of our money. Four soldiers were at this time 
 stationed at Berinbal, to protect the inhabitants from being 
 pillaged by our allies, the Turks. 
 
 Near this village we noticed the superb tomb of some Tombs at 
 Santon, or Sheik, standing upon the banks of the Nile, brecki. 
 The form of the dome, so prevalent in these buildings, 
 
 seems 
 
i#si#^#* • ■ m bbss* 
 
 232 " FROM GRAND CAIRO 
 
 chap. vi. seems to have been originally borrowed from the shape 
 either of a pumpkin or of a melon ; the external 
 fluted surface, and almost the entire form of the fruit, 
 being modelled by the architect. The custom also of 
 surrounding a principal tomb with humbler sepulchres, 
 as it existed in ages when the Pyramids were erected, 
 seems, by the appearance of this ccemetery, to have been 
 common in the country. The place is called Massora 
 Shibrecki. Other travellers have observed, not only in 
 Egypt, but also in Syria, and particularly in the neighbour- 
 hood of Damascus, a form of sepulchre precisely corre- 
 sponding, though upon a smaller scale, with the graduated 
 structure of the Pyramids ; being all of them pyramidal, 
 with decreasing ranges, of Jour or more steps, like the 
 principal Pyramids of Saccara'. It is proper to mention 
 this, because it tends to confirm what was before said of 
 the sepulchral origin of the Pyramids ; and also because this 
 peculiarity is not observable in the ceemetery at Massora 
 
 Shibrecki, 
 
 (1) Colonel Squire mentions this circumstance twice in his Journal ; once in de- 
 scribing the Coemeteries of Damascus, and a second time in his account of the Pyramids 
 of Saccara. Speaking of the latter, he says, " To this day the inhabitants cover the 
 spot where the body is interred with a sort of monument, which is evidently taken from 
 the form of a pyramid. The large pyramid at Saccara is formed in four stages, and is 
 flat' at the top. Indeed all the Pyramids, although, as it is reported, they may have been 
 cased with a smooth stone surface, are built with steps, and many of them are flat on 
 the summit. At present, the common tombs of the inhabitants of Egypt and Syria are 
 built in this form. In the towns, the work is masonry ; in the villages, they are con- 
 structed of mud j but they retain, in either instance, a resemblance to the Pyramids in 
 their forms. This, joined toother circumstances, seems to afford a strong proof that 
 the Pyramids were originally intended as receptacles for the dead." Squire's MS. 
 Journal. 
 
TO ROSETTA. 233 
 
 Shibrecki, which might be supposed to exhibit the usual J^J^ 
 form of Oriental tombs. The shape here of the smaller 
 sepulchres is rather cylindrical than pyramidal. 
 
 A little below Berimbal, there is a canal which extends 
 to the Lake Berelos*: at the mouth of it we saw some birds 
 of exquisite beauty, to which the Arabs give the name of 
 Sicsach ; but could learn nothing further of their history. 
 Also a species of Ardea, entirely of a white colour, by some 
 mistaken for the Ibis; but the bill is differently shaped, and 
 the Ibis has generally, if not always, some black feathers 
 near the tail. Hasselquist described the Ibis as a species of 
 Ardea, of the size of a raven 3 . He says that it eats and 
 destroys serpents 4 , small frogs, and insects; that it is very 
 common in Egypt, and almost peculiar to that country. 
 We saw also the Egyptian Plover, or Tringa Mgyptiaca of 
 the same author. The rest of our voyage to Rosetta was so 
 expeditious, that we arrived there by eight o'clock in the Amvaiat 
 same morning ; and repaired to our former residence upon 
 the quay. As soon as we landed, Mr. Hammer heard that 
 Sir Sidney Smith was upon the point of sailing for England ; 
 and being unable to resist the opportunity thus offered of 
 visiting a country he so much wished to see, he gave up 
 the plan he had formed for an expedition to the Oases, 
 and set out immediately for the British fleet. While he was 
 employed in procuring camels for himself and his servant, 
 
 we 
 
 (2) See the Map facing p. 290, in the former, Volume. 
 
 (3) Hasselquist's Travels, p. 198. Lond. 1766. 
 
 (4) See Savigny's observation upon the anatomy of the His, denying this property. 
 
 VOL. III. 2 H 
 

 
 234 
 
 CHAP. VI. 
 
 ROSETTA, 
 
 we wrote a few letters of introduction for him to some 
 of our correspondents in the University of Cambridge, and 
 in other parts of England, and with great regret took leave 
 of our valuable friend. 
 
 We found an evident difference of climate between this 
 place and Grand Cairo. The dates were not yet ripe ; and 
 the mercury in Fahrenheit's thermometer, when we made 
 our usual observation at noon, had fallen five degrees lower 
 than it stood at Grand Cairo only four days before ; being at 
 eighty-nine upon September the first; and this day, Septem- 
 ber the fifth, at eighty-four. The number of English 
 women that had assembled at Rosetta from the different 
 ships in the fleet, and were walking daily upon the strand, 
 offered a singular contrast to the appearance exhibited by 
 the Arab females, in their passage to and from the Nile for 
 water, and in the markets of the town. To these were also 
 occasionally added the women of the Indian army, now 
 encamped near Rosetta, wearing large rings in their 
 noses, and silver cinctures about their ankles and w r rists ; 
 their faces, at the same time, being frightfully disfigured by 
 red streaks, traced above the eyebrows. Each party of 
 these females doubtless regarded the other two as so many 
 savages ; and who shall say which was the most refined ? 
 The town had undergone other alterations, and was much 
 improved as a place of residence since we left it in the 
 beginning of August. An Italian had opened a coffee- 
 house, which was the resort of the officers both of the army 
 and navy. A prospect of tranquillity had brought back 
 many families, who had before deserted it : and Arabs were 
 
 seen 
 
ROSETT A. 
 
 235 
 
 seen in great number in the streets, selling sugar-canes, ^^ 
 fruit, and other vegetables ; and employed in making chairs, 
 tables, and bedsteads, from the branches of the date trees'. 
 We had no time to spare for any further inquiry into the 
 history of the place, or the antiquities it might conceal 2 : 
 yet, in spite of every exertion to prosecute our expedition 
 to Alexandria, we were detained three days in preparing and 
 packing cases, containing the collection we had made, and 
 in procuring another djerm to convey them to the fleet; 
 the boat in which we came having been pressed for the 
 service of the army as soon as it arrived. 
 
 (1) Rosetta was again become an emporium for the surprising harvest of Upper as 
 well as of Lower Egypt. Mr. Wills, acting as Commissary for our fleet, to whom we 
 were indebted for many acts of civility, at this time received an order for corn, to the 
 amount of seventeen thousand pounds sterling. This gentleman informed us, and said 
 he was convinced of the truth of the statement, that Upper Egypt could annually supply 
 five millions of Cairo ardepts of wheat; each ardept being equal to Jive bushels of our 
 measure; besides a great supply of barley and rice, the precise quantity of which he 
 was unable to ascertain. 
 
 (2) Captain Squire arrived at Rosetta in the evening of the same day on which we 
 left it. The following remarks occur in his Journal. " The town of Rosetta, or Ras- 
 ckid ;is it is called by the Arabs, was built in the year of Christ 875 ; and is now in a 
 very ruinous state : the houses, which are built of burned brick, are high ; and the 
 streets, as in all Turkish towns, narrow. At this time it is but thinly inhabited, although 
 trade (now the ports of Egypt are relieved from a blockade) seems about to revive : the 
 shops are well stocked with provisions of all kinds. Wild fowl may be had in abun- 
 dance. It may easily be conceived that the eye would revel in a prospect so refreshing 
 as the Delta, (after contemplating the sandy deserts of Aboukir, and the neighbourhood 
 of Alexandria,) forming so delightful a contrast by its verdure and cultivation. Of late 
 years, the desert has encroached, even here, considerably on the town ; and the west 
 side of Rosetta is completely skirted by sand hills." Squire's MS. Journal. 
 
 CHAP. 
 

 CHAP. VII. 
 
 ROSETTA TO ALEXANDRIA. 
 
 Voyage to Aboukir — Visit to Lord Keith — Journey to Alexandria — 
 Arrival at the British camp — Communication with Lord Hutchinson 
 — Entrance into the French garrison — Wretched state of the inhabi- 
 tants — Visit from a party of Merchants — Discovery of the Tomb 
 of Alexander — Circumstances of its removal by the French — Its 
 situation upon the author s arrival — Internal evidence of its authen- 
 ticity — Other antiquities collected by the French — Cleopatra s Needles 
 — Pompey's Pillar — Discovery of the Inscription — Sepulchral origin 
 of the Column — Manner of its support — Proof that it was erected by 
 the Romans — Restoration of the legend upon the pedestal — Events 
 that occurred after the death ofPompey — Shrine constructed by Ccesar 
 — Testimony of the Arabian Historians — Hadrians monument 
 to his horse — Traditionary name of the Pillar founded on historical 
 evidence — Interview with Menou — Surrender of the Rosetta Tablet 
 — Intercourse between the armies — French Institute — Catacombs of 
 Necropolis — Serapeum of Racotis — Of Hades and of Ammon— 
 
 Cause 
 
ROSETTA TO ALEXANDRIA. 
 
 237 
 
 Cause of such elaborate sepulchres — Descent into the Cryptse — 
 Remarkable Symbol — Imperfect accounts of the Alexandrian Anti- 
 quities — Conduct of the Capudan Pasha. 
 
 llrfARLY on the morning of September the eighth, we got chap, vii. 
 once more under weigh, in a large djerm, having all our voyage to 
 
 -r* Aboukir. 
 
 -Egyptian collection of antiquities on board ; and saw the 
 beautiful prospect of Rosetta disappear, as we sailed be- 
 tween the Isle of Sarshes* and the Delta. We had little 
 wind, but it was favourable ; and as we passed the fearful 
 bar at the mouth of the Nile, there was not the smallest surf. 
 A small isle at the entrance of the river was entirely covered 
 with pelicans. About half way between the boccaze and 
 the fleet, we observed a salute from all the Turkish ships 
 at anchor ; in honour, as it was said, of some Mahometan 
 festival. The mud of the immense torrent now pouring 
 into the Mediterranean, at the highest period of the Nile's 
 inundation, extended over the surface of this part of the 
 sea ; and the water tasted fresh at a considerable distance 
 from the embouchure. As Captain Clarke's frigate no 
 longer remained among the transports, we steered our 
 vessel among the merchant ships lying nearer to the coast 
 towards Aboukir, and came alongside the Felicitd from 
 Smyrna, laden with stores. Here we were hospitably re- 
 ceived by our friend Mr. Schutz, of that city, who was on 
 board, as supercargo, and by a worthy Ragusan who was 
 master of the merchantman. 
 
 The 
 
 (1) See the Map facing p. 290 of the former Volume. 
 

 
 238 
 
 CHAP. VII. 
 
 Arrival at the 
 British Camp. 
 
 ROSETTA TO ALEXANDRIA. 
 
 The next morning, Wednesday September the ninth, we 
 waited upon Lord Keith, to thank him for the civilities he 
 had shewn us, and to take our leave. He told us that no 
 vessels would be permitted to sail into the port of Alexandria, 
 until the French had evacuated the city, and the magazines 
 been properly secured by our army ; as he knew that there 
 were not less than fifty or sixty ships, manned by Greeks 
 and Turks, waiting for the sole purpose of plunder. We 
 could not therefore obtain permission for the Felicite to take 
 us thither ; and we returned, to undertake the journey by 
 land. A contrary wind, with a very heavy sea, had caused 
 so much delay, and had given us so much labour in working 
 up to the Admiral's ship, that we did not get back again 
 until the day was far advanced. We passed that night upon 
 the deck of the FeliciU ; the cabin swarming to such a degree 
 with bugs, that the table, during dinner, was covered with 
 them. We set out very early, September the tenth, accom- 
 panied by Mr. Schutz, and reached the British camp by 
 day-break. The Commander-in-chief was on horseback, 
 inspecting the lines. We waited in his tent until he re- 
 turned, when he received us with his usual condescension 
 and kindness. He told us that our friend Mr. Hamilton had 
 also reached the camp that morning, and had been furnished 
 with a passport to enter Alexandria. The capitulation for 
 the surrender of that city had been protracted by the con- 
 tumacy of the French General, Menou, who was unwilling 
 to deliver up the Antiquities demanded by the English ; and 
 his reluctance, in this respect, was considerably augmented 
 by observing the increasing nature of those demands : for as 
 
 the 
 
ROSETTA TO ALEXANDRIA. 
 
 the French had carefully concealed what they possessed, 
 fresh intelligence continually came to Lord Hutchinson 
 concerning the acquisitions they had made, and gave rise to 
 some new exaction on the part of our army. Thus finding 
 himself likely to be stripped of all the Egyptian trophies 
 with which he had prepared to adorn the Museum at Paris, 
 Menou gave no bounds to his rage and mortification. 
 Sometimes he threatened to bury himself and his troops in 
 the ruins of Alexandria, sooner than accede to the proposals 
 he had received ; at other times he had recourse to the 
 most ridiculous gasconade, and threatened to meet Lord 
 Hutchinson in single combat. The valuable Tablet found near 
 Rosetta, with its famous trilinguar inscription, seemed to be 
 more than any other article the subject of his remonstrances ; 
 because this, he maintained, was " his private property ; and 
 therefore as exempt from requisition as the linen of his 
 wardrobe, or his embroidered saddles 1 ." We then ventured 
 to inform his Lordship, that we had reason to believe there 
 was something concealed in Alexandria for the possession of 
 which the French were more anxious than even for this 
 Tablet: and making known to him the nature of our errand, 
 received his orders to set out instantly for Alexandria ; and 
 endeavour to discover, not only where the particular monu- 
 ment was hid to which we alluded, but also whatsoever other 
 antiquities the French might have secreted in the city. He 
 gave us also authority from himself to receive the Rosetta 
 
 Tablet, 
 
 329 
 
 CHAP. VII. 
 
 (l) These were nearly Menou's own words, as they are given in the sequel. 
 
240 
 
 ROSETTA TO ALEXANDRIA. 
 
 chap, vii. Tablet, and to copy its inscriptions ; fearful lest any accident 
 might befal it, either while it remained in the possession of 
 the enemy, or in its passage home. His Lordship had 
 already obtained an impression from the stone, made with 
 red chalk, upon paper, by some member of the French 
 Institute ; but the characters so impressed were too imper- 
 fectly marked to afford a faithful representation of the 
 original : this he consigned to our care, as likely to assist 
 us in the undertaking. While we were thus engaged in 
 receiving his Lordship's instructions, Colonel Montresor 
 came in, and undertook to procure for us the horses and 
 forage which Lord Hutchinson had ordered. Having 
 then given us a passport for quitting the English lines and 
 entering the city, we were conducted to the tent of Colonel 
 Probyn, of the Royal Irish ; and in a short time Colonel 
 Montresor, from whom we had often before experienced the 
 most friendly attentions, arrived with horses and every thing 
 necessary for our conveyance. 
 
 Thus provided, we left the British camp, and, crossing the 
 valley which separated the two armies, drew near to the out- 
 works of Alexandria. Our sentinels, being then advanced close 
 to the fortifications of the place, challenged us ; and having 
 given them the word, we were suffered to pass on. As we 
 approached the gates of the city, we saw a vast number of 
 Arabs, who were stationed on the outside of the walls, with 
 baskets of poultry and other provisions, waiting for per- 
 mission from the English to supply the inhabitants ; who 
 were then greatly distressed for want of food. At the gates, a 
 French sentinel received our passport, and conducted us to 
 
 an 
 
ALEXANDRIA. 
 
 241 
 
 Entrance into 
 the French 
 Garrison. 
 
 an officer for its examination; who directed us to present chap. vii 
 it again, when we should arrive at head-quarters within the 
 city. In the desolate scene of sand and ruins which inter- 
 venes between the outer gates and the interior fortifications, 
 we met a party of miserable Turks, who were endeavouring, 
 literally, to crawl towards their camp 1 . They had been 
 liberated that morning from their dungeons. The legs of 
 these poor creatures, swoln to a size that was truly horrible, 
 were covered with large ulcers ; and their eyes were terrible 
 from inflammation. Some, too weak to advance, had fallen 
 on the sand, where they were exposed to the scorching 
 beams of the sun. Immediately on seeing us, they uttered 
 such moans that might have pierced the hearts of their cruel 
 oppressors. They begged for water, but we had none to 
 give them ; for, eager in the pursuit of our object, we had 
 neglected to supply ourselves with provisions. We suc- 
 ceeded, but not without difficulty, in prevailing upon some 
 Arabs to take care of them until relief could be obtained 2 ; 
 and at eleven o'clock, 4. m. we passed, through the inner 
 <rates, into the great square of Alexandria. 
 
 We found the inhabitants in the greatest distress for Wretched 
 
 state of the 
 
 want of provisions : many of them had not tasted meat or inhabitant* of 
 bread for several months. The French, who were better 
 supplied for some time, were now driven to such straits, that 
 
 they 
 
 Alexandria. 
 
 (1) Some repetition will perhaps be noticed of observations made in a former 
 work (Tomb of Alexander, p. 38.) ; but the author did not consider any thing which 
 occurred in a preceding publication as authorizing the omission of a part of his Journal 
 upon the present occasion. 
 
 (2) We had afterwards the happiness of hearing that they reached the Turkish camp. 
 
 VOL. III. 2 I 
 
ALEXANDRIA. 
 
 they had put to death fifteen horses every day, for many days 
 
 past, to supply their own soldiers with food. The families, 
 
 to whom we had brought letters, were in a state of misery 
 
 hardly to be described. We first went to the house of the 
 
 Imperial Consul. They asked us eagerly when the English 
 
 were to enter the city: and being told that some days 
 
 would elapse before this could take place, they burst into 
 
 tears. Every individual beneath the Consul's roof exhibited 
 
 proof of the privation which his family had sustained : 
 
 fallen cheeks; clothes hanging loose, as if too large for 
 
 their bodies; and a general appearance of wretchedness 
 
 and dejection. The Consul said, that his family had tasted 
 
 neither bread nor meat for many months : that their principal 
 
 food had been bad rice and onions. Upon the landing of 
 
 our army, most of the inhabitants were under the necessity 
 
 of making biscuit for the support of their families ; but as 
 
 soon as this was known to Menou, he ordered the whole of 
 
 it to be seized, for the use of the garrison. When we 
 
 inquired what other measures the French had adopted to 
 
 maintain themselves, we were informed, that they had seized 
 
 all the specie, plate, and merchandize in the city; and given, 
 
 in lieu thereof, bills upon their one and indivisible Republic ; 
 
 thus having the means of buying up, at enormous prices, 
 
 whatever article of food might be brought in by the Arabs, 
 
 or appear in the markets of the place 1 . 
 
 If 
 
 (1) The following prices were given, upon the day of our arrival, for provisions, which 
 of course the merchants were precluded from buying, as they had been stripped of ever* 
 thing likely to be accepted in exchange. 
 
ALEXANDRIA 
 
 243 
 
 If the capitulation had been prolonged another tort- 
 night, every merchant's family would have been found 
 destitute even of clothing ; for, every fortnight, additional 
 exactions were made by the troops ; and already every 
 thing else had been seized. It was calculated that of the 
 Turks, then prisoners in the city, upwards of forty perished 
 caily. The French had carried their cruelty to these men 
 to the severest extremities ; making them work, like horses, 
 at their mills, and in drawing water. All the male inhabi- 
 tants had been compelled to assist in the duties of the gar- 
 rison, and to bear arms, upon pain of imprisonment if they 
 refused ; a species of oppression, however, which might 
 have been expected from any troops similarly situated; 
 neither would it be proper to judge of Frenchmen in 
 general by the sample which their army in Egypt afforded ; 
 collected as it had been, from the refuse not only of the 
 French republic, but of all the rovers and banditti of the 
 Levant. So desirous were the French soldiers of abandoning 
 Alexandria, notwithstanding the obstinacy of their General 
 Menou, whom they detested, that they had been seen to seize 
 Arabs by the beard, who arrived by stealth with provisions, 
 
 and 
 
 CHAP. VII. 
 
 For one pound of beef . 
 One bottle of wine . 
 One ditto of brandy . 
 One pound of bad rice 
 One ditto of cheese . 
 A fish (the size of a mackarel) 
 
 One egg 
 
 Neither bread nor wood could be obtained at any price : the French soldiers were 
 then employed in pulling down the houses of the inhabitants for fuel. 
 
 L. 
 
 
 s. 
 10 
 
 d. 
 
 
 English. 
 
 l 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 l 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 9 
 
 
 
 
 el) 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 
 8 
 

 244 
 
 CHAP. VII. 
 
 Discovery of 
 the Tomb of 
 .Alexander. 
 
 ALEXANDRIA. 
 
 and beat them, in order that supplies of food might not be 
 the means of protracting the surrender of the place. 
 
 We had scarcely reached the house in which we were to 
 reside, when a party of the merchants, who had heard of 
 our arrival from the Imperial Consul, came to congratulate 
 us upon the successes of our army, and to offer any assis- 
 tance in their power, for expediting the entry of the English 
 into Alexandria. Some of these waited until the room was 
 cleared of other visitants, brought by curiosity, before whom 
 they did not think proper to make further communication. 
 But when they were gone, speaking with circumspection, 
 and in a low voice, they asked if our business in Alexandria 
 related to the subject of contention between Lord Hutchinson 
 and Menou ; namely, the Antiquities collected by the French 
 in Egypt ? Upon being answered in the affirmative, and, 
 in oroof of it, the copy of the Rosetta Stone being produced, 
 the principal person among them said, "Does your Com- 
 mander-in-chief know that they have theTomb of Alexander?" 
 We desired them to describe it : upon which they said, that 
 it was of one entire and beautiful green stone 1 , shaped like 
 a cistern, and taken from the Mosque of St. Athanasius ; 
 that, among the inhabitants, this cistern had always borne 
 the appellation of Alexander 's Tomb. Upon further conver- 
 sation, it was evident that this could be no other than the 
 identical monument to which our instructions from Cairo 
 referred. We produced the confidential letter entrusted to 
 
 us 
 
 ( 1 ) The fact is, that the stone, being a mass of breccia, is variegated ; and parts of 
 it only are of a green colour. 
 
ALEXANDRIA. 
 
 us upon this subject. The person to whom it was written 
 was not present; but they offered to conduct us to his house. 
 We had hitherto carefully concealed the circumstance of its 
 being in our possession ; and, for obvious reasons, we shall 
 not mention, even now, the name of the individual to whom 
 it was addressed. " It relates then," said they, " to the par- 
 ticular object of our present visit ; and we will put it in your 
 power to get possession of it." They then related the unjusti- 
 fiable measures used for its removal by the French, upon 
 whom they bestowed every degrading epithet which their 
 indignation could suggest ; telling us also the veneration in 
 which the Mahometans had always held it, and the tradition 
 familiar to all of them respecting its origin. Indeed this had 
 been so long established, that one wonders it had been so 
 little noticed among the enlightened seminaries of Europe 8 . 
 Leo Africanus, long subsequent to the conquest of Alex- 
 andria by the Saracens, had recorded the tradition 3 ; and 
 Freinshemius, in his Supplement to Livy, had admitted the 
 authority of Leo 4 . That it should particularly excite the 
 attention of Frenchmen is easily explained. Their own 
 countryman, Rollin, had directed their regard towards it, by 
 countenancing the opinion and testimony of Freinshemius 5 . 
 
 So 
 
 245 
 
 CHAP. Vlf. 
 
 (2) Many were misled by the words of Juvenal : 
 
 ** Cum tamen a figulis munitam intraverit urbem 
 
 " Sarcophago contentus erit." 
 
 supposing the allusion to be intended, rather for Babylon, than for Alexandria, where 
 Juvenal had himself visited the Tomb. 
 
 (3) Alexandria: Descript. torn. II. lib. 8. p. 677. Elzev. 1632. 
 
 (4) Lib. 133. torn. V. p. 637. edit. Crevier. 
 
 (5) Rollin. vol. V. p. 13". 
 
246 
 
 CHAP. VII. 
 
 ALEXANDRIA. 
 
 So eager were they to obtain it, that the most solemn treaty 
 was infringed, whereby they had guaranteed to the Moslems 
 the inviolable possession of their sanctuaries. The Mosque 
 of St. Athanasius was forcibly entered by a party of their 
 pioneers, with battle-axes and hammers ; and the " Tomb of 
 Iscander, founder of the city" was borne away, amidst the 
 howling and lamentation of its votaries 1 . But we must turn 
 our attention, at present, from the circumstances of its removal 
 by the French, to pursue a narrative of events which ulti- 
 mately placed in our possession a trophy, still destined, in th en- 
 sanguine expectations, to grace their national Museum 2 . At 
 the moment of our arrival in the city, not a single individual 
 of our army or navy, nor even in Great Britain, knew that 
 the monument at which Leo Africanus had himself done 
 homage, as a Mahometan, and which had so long been 
 venerated by Moslems under the remarkable appellation of 
 
 the Tomb of Alexander, existed in Alexandria 3 . 
 
 We 
 
 (1) See also the communication made to Dr. Henley, by General Turner, respecting 
 the last instance of devotion paid to the Tomb by many Moslems of distinction, at its 
 departure from Alexandria. Append, to Tomb of Alex. No. II. p. 144. 
 
 (2) Perhaps few of our countrymen have yet attended to the language they hold 
 upon this subject. The following extract from an account of the French Expedition to 
 Egypt, by Charles Norry, architect, one of the members of the " Societe Philotech- 
 nique," attached to the Expedition, will offer a specimen of the hopes entertained in 
 France for the recovery of this valuable monument. " Sans doute ce Monument 
 
 NOUS SERA APFORTE AU MUSEUM DE PARIS ! AU MOINS E£T-IL DEJA DESIGNE POUR 
 
 l'orner un jour"!!! See Peltier's edit, of Denoris Voyage in Egypt, torn. II. 
 Append, p. 12Q. Lond. 1802. 
 
 (3) This is evident, from the total silence respecting it in all the works published 
 concerning Egypt since the campaign ; neither was there any thing known concerning 
 the history of this monument after it was deposited in the British Museum, until the 
 period of the author's publication upon the subject in 1805. 
 
ALEXANDRIA 247 
 
 We then visited the person to whom our letter from chap.vii. 
 Gai*o had been addressed, respecting the communication to 
 be nade upon our arrival ; and found that every information 
 had been anticipated by the intelligence we had already 
 received, excepting that which related to the place where 
 thiie valuable relique was now deposited. This, however, 
 the-'' readily gave us. We were told that it was in the 
 hold of an hospital ship, named La Cause, in the inner 
 harbour ; and being provided with a boat, we there found 
 it, half filled with filth, and covered with rags of the sick 
 peoole on board 4 . It proved to be an immense monolithal 
 Sarcophagus, or, according to the name borrowed by the 
 Greeks from the antient language of Egypt, a Soros b ; 
 converted, in ages long posterior to its formation, into a 
 cistern, according to a custom which has been universal 
 in the East, wherever such receptacles for the dead have 
 been discovered. The nature of the stone, and the testi- 
 monies concerning its history, have been already before the 
 public : some repetition has therefore now occurred ; but 
 to repeat the whole of a detail which was then unavoidably 
 elaborate, would be considered not only as tedious, but 
 
 altogether 
 
 (4) Mr. Hamilton afterwards saw it in the same situation. " We were conducted," 
 says he, " alongside or' a large hospital ship, on board of which was the celebrated 
 Alexandrian Sarcophagus : it had been for se\ei..l months in the hold, and was intended 
 to be sent to France the first opportunity. This monument was resigned to us not 
 without much regret, as it had long been considered one of the most valuable 
 curiosities in Alexandria."' Hamilton's A^gyplmca, p. 403. Lund. 180Q. 
 
 (5) See Jablonski, Bochart, Kircher, &x. 
 
 (6) See " The Tomb of Alexander," as published by the author in 1805. 
 

 248 
 
 CHAP. VII. 
 
 ALEXANDRIA. 
 
 altogether as a work of supererogation. The Soros is now 
 placed where it is open to the inspection of any one who 
 may deem it to be an object of curiosity. All that the 
 author wishes to insist upon, as conveying indisputable 
 evidence, is, the corresponding testimony afforded by the 
 remarkable nature of the receptacle, with the tradition 
 mentioned by Leo Africanus, and preserved among the 
 Moslems to the hour of its removal 1 : a species of evidence 
 which may fairly be deemed internal; because it is impos- 
 sible that a set of ignorant barbarians could be aware that 
 the object of their veneration was, in fact, that particular 
 species of conditory, which Herodian, speaking of the Tomb 
 of Alexander, has designated by the term Soros ; still less 
 that the same Soros, inscribed with the sacred ivriting of 
 
 the 
 
 (l) The Arabs retain both the name and the aera of Alexander in their calendars ; 
 calling him, always, \ji.^j*" 3^ bicornis ; and Golius explains the true cause of this 
 appellation. " Arabes eum Bicornem vocant, non tarn ob partum Orientis etOccidentis 
 imperium, quam a cornutd Alexandri effigie, nummis exhibitd, ut Jovis Ammonis filius 
 agnosceretur." (Fid. Annot. in lib. ii. Sulpit. Sever, c. 25. p. 343. Edit. Horn. 
 L. Bat. 1654.) The image of Alexander, so expressed, appears upon the medals of 
 Lysimachus, and was common to many States after his death, although it is always falsely 
 considered as the head of some other person. His image also appears very commonly 
 covered with the spoils of a lion ; when it is improperly considered as a young Hercules : 
 sometimes also it is seen armed with a helmet, and then it is confounded with the 
 figures of Minerva. Le Brun has been censured and ridiculed for introducing what 
 has been called a head of Minerva, upon the figure of Alexander, in his celebrated 
 paintings of his battles ; whereas it is, in all probability, a genuine portrait of that 
 hero. Alexander is thus alluded to in the Tailor's Story before the Sultan of Casgar, 
 in the Arabian Tales. " Sir," said he, " you will be pleased to know that this day is 
 Friday, the 18th of the month Saffar, in the year 653 from the retreat of our great 
 Prophet from Mecca to Medina, and in the year 7320 of the Epocha of the gheat 
 
 ISKENDER WITH TWO HORNS." 
 
ALEXANDRIA. 
 
 249 
 
 the priests, is thereby demonstrably the tomb of some chap. vii. 
 person deified by the Egyptians, as Alexander incon testably 
 was after his interment*. 
 
 In the evening of the same day, about five o'clock, we 
 waited upon Monsieur Le Roy, Ordonnateur de la Marine, 
 in consequence of receiving, by Menou's Aid-de-Camp, an 
 order from the French General to see the other antiquities 
 their army had collected to send to France, and which 
 they had been compelled to surrender. This gentleman 
 treated us with great politeness, and conducted us to some 
 magazines near the old port: here many of the reliques were 
 then deposited which are now in our national Museum. 
 A Soros, brought from Grand Cairo, was upon the beach 
 near those magazines, together with part of another from 
 Upper Egypt, ready to be shipped off, as soon as an 
 opportunity might offer. Near to these was also placed a 
 granite fragment, being the hand of a colossal statue 
 discovered by the French engineers upon the site of 
 antient Memphis 3 , and supposed to have belonged to 
 the Temple of Vulcan 4 . Another fragment, exactly similar 
 
 to 
 
 (2) See Lucian, vol. I. p. 29O. edit . Amstelod. Blaeu. Marcus Aurelius Alexander 
 Severus was born in a temple sacred to Alexander the Great, and thence received the 
 name of Alexander. See also the various proofs of Alexander's deification adduced in 
 the Tomb of Alexander, Camb. 1805 ; and the additional evidence of the fact, as pub- 
 lished by Dr. Henley, in the Appendix to that work. — " 'Errtih} 'AXefaptyos fiovXsrai 
 6e6g that, tara Qtog. Quandoquidem Alexander vult esse Deus, esto Deus." vElian. 
 lib. ii. Far. Hist. cap. 19. — See also Fbssius, de Cultu Alexandri Magni, torn. II. 
 cap. 17. p. 602. Amst. 1642, &c. 
 
 (3) Where the villages of Metrahenny and Mohannan are now situated. 
 
 (4) The reader will find this Colossus mentioned in the " Rapport fait au Premier 
 Consul Bonaparte, par le Ciloyen Ripaud," in the Appendix to Peltier's edit, of Denon's 
 
 VOL. III. 2 K Travels 
 

 
 ■ 
 
 3SU?iO' 
 
 250 
 
 CHAP. VII. 
 
 ALEXANDRIA. 
 
 to this, is yet lying among some Ruins upon the shore to 
 the east of Alexandria, believed by the French to denote 
 the site of Canopus 1 . An intentional reserve has been 
 carefully maintained by their writers, upon the subject 
 of all the antiquities that came into our possession : on 
 this account the places where some of them were dis- 
 covered are still unknown in this country. We saw also 
 three large Syenite statues, each in a sitting attitude, holding 
 the Crux Ansata in the left hand: these were repre- 
 sentations of the twofold symbol worshipped by the 
 Egyptians with a lion's head 2 . The largest statues of this 
 form are those of Tliebes, about four hundred miles to 
 the south of Cairo 3 , one of which has been commonly 
 called Memnons Statue. From the drawings made of 
 those figures by Denon 4 , it is plain that neither of them 
 were represented with human heads ; but that they cor- 
 responded with the double image of a human figure 
 with a lion's head, common among the antiquities of 
 Egypt; the nose and under-jaw of the leonine bust 
 belonging to each of them having fallen off, but the rest of 
 
 the 
 
 Travels in Egypt, torn. II. p. 38. Lond. 1802. but without any specific description. Its 
 dimensions alone are stated — " Un Colosse a" environ trente-cinq pieds de proportion." 
 
 (1) It is represented, with part of a Sphinx, and other broken pieces of sculpture, in 
 one of the plates belonging to the large Paris edition of Denon's Travels. See torn. II. 
 Plate 3. " Ruines de Canope." 
 
 (2) See the Plate representing Antiquities found at Saccara. 
 
 (3) According to Norden, 405 miles, who makes the distance equal to 135 French 
 leagues. See Drawings of some Ruins, &c. published by the Royal Society in\7A\ . p. 0. 
 
 (4) See Plate 44 of the large Paris edition of the Voyage en Egypte par Vivcnt 
 Denon. 
 
ALEXANDRIA. 
 
 251 
 
 the head being similar to that which appeared up.on the CHA P- vu. 
 
 sta.ues here shewn to us by Monsieur Le Roy, and since 
 
 renoved to our national Museum'. This is so evident, that 
 
 it s remarkable none of the travellers who have visited 
 
 Thebes have paid attention to the fact. They were 
 
 perhaps misled, by expecting to find the image of a 
 
 human form, as belonging to the supposed statue of 
 
 Memnon. Indeed Norden, in the design he made upon the 
 
 spot, as appears by the etching he afterwards engraved 
 
 from it 6 , has attempted a faint delineation of the human 
 
 countenance, by introducing an imperfect restoration of 
 
 the features, as they were suggested to his imagination by 
 
 the appearance of the stone. Pococke used still greater 
 
 freedom 7 ; but Denon accurately delineated the figures as he 
 
 found them. According to his plate, there is not the 
 
 smallest trace left of any human countenance ; and the 
 
 back of the head, in each statue, agrees with those figures 
 
 which have the leonine bust. Strabo, who was himself at 
 
 Thebes, and mentions these colossal statues, does not say 
 
 that either of them was a statue of Memnon ; but that they 
 
 were near the Memnonium ; and that a sound issued every 
 
 day from one of them 8 . 
 
 Within 
 
 (5) See also the Plate of the Antiquities found at Saccara, as before referred to. 
 
 (6) See Norden's Etchings, tab. I. as before cited. Lond. 1741. 
 
 (7) Pococke's Observations upon Egypt. 
 
 (S) Strabon. Geogr. lib. xv\i. p. 1155. Ed. Oxon. The observation of Strabo may 
 remove the difficulty that has always attended any endeavour to reconcile the statue 
 from which the sound issued with that of an actual statue of Memnon ; Memnonis saxea 
 effigies, as mentioned by Tacitus. The persons who heard the sound might attribute 
 that sound to Memnon, without considering the statue to be his statue. 
 
m ■ ■ ¥& 
 
 
 252 ALEXANDRIA. 
 
 chap. vii. Within the magazine we saw many other antiquities; 
 
 particularly the head of a colossal image of the Ram, or of 
 Ammon, whose name and worship, derived from ^Ethiopia 1 , 
 became a source of the most absurd and fabulous history 
 among the Greeks 2 . Also, two oblong slabs of stone, adorned 
 with hieroglyphical sculpture, together with an Egyptian 
 coffin of stone, adapted to the human form ; and the frag- 
 ment of a Soros, both brought from Upper Egypt. Also 
 other antiquities, the description of which might afford 
 very pleasing employment: but a volume, rather than a 
 chapter, would be required for the undertaking ; and all these 
 reliques are now under the guardianship of scholars amply 
 qualified to satisfy the public curiosity concerning their 
 history. At the house of General Friant, we were afterwards 
 shewn two statues of white marble ; one of Marcus Aurelius, 
 and the other of Septimius Severus, which are also now in 
 England. 
 
 The 
 
 (1) See Vossius de Orig. et Prog. Idol. lib. ii. c. 11. Amst. 1642. Kircher CEdip. 
 jEgypt. Synt. 3. cap. 6. Rom. 1652. Pauw Philos. Diss. part. iii. sect. J. Lond. I?g5, 
 &c. &c. The reader may also consult Diodorus, and the jEthiopica of Heliodorus. 
 Kircher has cited a very remarkable communication, made to him by an Abyssinian, 
 upon this curious subject, which he has thus translated into Latin. " Quoniam a me 
 petiisti tibi dicer e aliquid de Diis &thiopum. Noveris quod palres nostri cum Gentilibus 
 et Pagants passim commiscerentur, inceperunt discere opera eorum ; et fecerunt sibi 
 
 Deos privatos, et adoraverunt eos, sculpturam manu hominis perfectam Et 
 
 ego adhuc multa in Ethiopia in Barnagasch hujusmodi vidi ; erant autem magna ex 
 parte referentia caput Leonis et Arietis ; nomen eorum, Amuna." 
 
 (2) " Plane ridiculum est, velle Ammonis nomen petere a Gratis : ciim iEgyptii 
 ipsi 'A/xovv appellent, teste etiam Herodoto." Vossius de Orig. &c. Idolat. lib. ii. c. 11. 
 torn. I. p. 362. Amst. 1642. The name cf the Supreme Being among the Brahmins 
 of India is the first syllable only of this word, pronounced AM. 
 
ALEXANDRIA. 
 
 253 
 
 Cleopatra's 
 Needles. 
 
 The next morning, September the eleventh, another f 11 ^-™ 
 French officer attended us, in company with Mr. Ha- 
 mihon, to the Obelisks, commonly called Cleopatra s 
 Needles. One alone is now standing ; the other, lying 
 down, measures seven feet square at the base, and sixty- six 
 feet in length. They are so well known, that it is not 
 necessary to give a very particular description of them 3 . 
 They are covered with hieroglyphics, cut to the depth of 
 two inches into the stone, which consists of red granite ; 
 but, owing to a partial decomposition of the feldspar, its 
 red colour has faded towards the surface. A similar 
 decomposition has frequently hastened the decay of 
 other antient monuments ; and it offers proof of a fact 
 worthy the notice of persons employed in national archi- 
 tecture; namely, that granite is less calculated for works 
 of duration, than pure homogeneous marble, or common 
 limestone. The action of the atmosphere conduces to the 
 hardness and durability of the two latter ; but it never fails to 
 
 corrode 
 
 (3) After the English were in possession of Alexandria, a subscription was opened 
 among the officers of the army and navy, for the purpose of removing the cumbent 
 Obelisk to Great Britain. With the money thus raised they purchased one of the 
 vessels that Menou had sunk in the old port of Alexandria ; this they raised, and 
 prepared for its reception. The work went on rapidly ; the Obelisk was turned, and its 
 lower surface was found to be in a high state of preservation. It was then moved, by 
 means of machinery constructed for the purpose, towards the vessel prepared to 
 receive it. Lord Cavan presided in this undertaking. A naval officer, who was present 
 upon the occasion, brought over to England the plans projected for conveying this 
 splendid trophy of the success of our arms to the Metropolis of this country ; and 
 there is every reason to believe the design would have been accomplished. Its inter- 
 ruption took place in consequence of an order preventing the sailors from assisting at 
 the work. 
 

 254 
 
 CHAP. VII. 
 
 Pompey's 
 Pillar. 
 
 ALEXANDRIA. 
 
 corode and to decompose substances where feldspar is a 
 constituent. Examples may be adduced of marble, after 
 continual exposure to air and moisture during two thousand 
 years, still retaining the original polish upon its surface 
 unaltered ; but granite, under similar circumstances, has 
 not only undergone alteration, but, in certain cases, has 
 crumbled, and fallen into the form of gravel, owing to the 
 decomposition of the feldspar. Instances of such disinte- 
 gration may be noticed among the ruins of Alexandria Troas, 
 anc over all the district of Troas in general. Some of the 
 granite columns used by the Turks in the fabrication of their 
 cannon-balls have been found in such a state of decompo- 
 sition, that, although sufficiently compact to admit of their 
 receiving a spheroidal form, yet, when fired at our ships, 
 the substance shivered, and flew about in small pieces, 
 like canister shot, proving a very destructive species of 
 ammunition'. 
 
 We were now desirous of visiting the stupendous Column 
 so long distinguished by the appellation of " Vompeys 
 Pillar." It is visible from almost every spot in the neigh- 
 bourhood of Alexandria. The Inscription upon its pedestal 
 (containing, as many have believed, the name of the Emperor 
 Diocletian) was not then known to exist, although it had been 
 mentioned by the Consul Maillet 2 , and after him by Pococke 3 . 
 
 The 
 
 (1) The author has specimens of this decomposed Granite, which the Turks em- 
 ployed against our fleet, during its passage of the Dardanelles, under Admiral Duckworth. 
 The Feldspar has entirely lost its colour ; and the mass is become friable, like loosely 
 cohering Breccia. 
 
 (2) Descr. de L'Egypte, tome I. p. 180. a la Haye, 1740. 
 
 (3) Descr. of the East, vol. I. p. 8. Lond. 1748. 
 
ALEXANDRIA. 
 
 255 
 
 The circumstances of our visit may therefore be (deemed ,chap. vh. 
 carious ; as Mr. Hamilton was one of our party, who 
 afterwards assisted in the development of this important 
 record, and who himself discovered the name, believed to be 
 that of Diocletian, soon after the Inscription was again 
 recognised 4 . When w r e had gratified our curiosity by a 
 general survey of this surprising monument, and had gazed 
 for some time in utter astonishment at the sight of a column 
 of granite, whose shaft alone, of one entire mass, with a 
 diameter of eight feet, measures sixty- three in height 5 , 
 Mr. Hamilton expressed a wish to find something remaining 
 of the Inscription mentioned by Pococke. In search of this, 
 we examined the four sides of the pedestal: the western 
 side seemed to be corroded, as many authors have described 
 it to be ; but not a trace of any existing inscription could 
 be discerned. The author wishes to lay some stress upon 
 this singular fact, that due merit may be attributed to those 
 who have since so remarkably recovered the characters of 
 that Inscription ; after it had also baffled every research of 
 the French during their long residence in the country, as 
 their own writers do acknowledge 6 . Mr. Hamilton, who 
 
 participated 
 
 (4) Mr. Hamilton communicated this circumstance in a Letter to the author. 
 
 (5) The height of the whole column, including the capital, shaft, and pedestal, is 
 eighty-eight feet, six inches, as measured by the French engineers. 
 
 (6) See particularly the "Rapport par Charles Norry," in the Appendix to Peltier's 
 edition of Denon's Travels, (Lond. 1802.) as it was read before the Institute. " It is 
 greatly to be regretted," says Norry, " that an inscription formerly placed on one of the 
 sides of the pedestal should be no longer legible." 
 
256 
 
 ALEXANDRIA.. 
 
 chap, vii. participated the labour, has since published an account of the 
 transaction : but the person to whom the literary world 
 has been exclusively indebted for first making known tthe 
 actual existence of the Inscription, after its supposed dis- 
 appearance, has never yet been mentioned as the discoverer 
 of it, in any of the publications that have appeared upon 
 the subject. At the time of our visit, it was considered 
 not merely as illegible, but altogether as lost ; neither Mr. 
 Hamilton, nor the author, nor any other individual of our pairty, 
 being able to discern even the part of the pedestal where 
 it had been inscribed. This may serve to explain the diifri- 
 culty which afterwards attended its recovery, when a whole 
 day was frequently required for the purpose of obtaining 
 a single letter. Mr. Hamilton arrived in Alexandria, as it 
 has been related by him ', after the Inscription had been 
 found, and the undertaking for copying it had been begun. 
 He himself assisted in making a. facsimile of it ; and it was 
 he, as was before stated, who observed the letters which 
 are now believed to complete the name of the Emperor 
 Diocletian. There is indeed good reason to conjecture 
 that Diocletian s name is mentioned in that Inscription ; but 
 it by no means necessarily follows that the pillar was 
 erected by him ; and some reasons will be given in the 
 sequel to shew that the legend admits of a different, although 
 a doubtful, reading. At present, in justice to the memory of 
 a distinguished, but now lamented officer, it is necessary to 
 
 prove 
 
 (1) iEgyptiaca, p. 403. Lond. I8O9. 
 
ALKX \NDRIA. 
 
 257 
 
 prove that all the information afforded by the Inscription ^iap.vii. 
 itself would have been consigned to everlasting oblivion, Discovery 
 
 ° of the 
 
 butforthe important discovery made by the late Lieutenant- inscription. 
 colonel Squire of some remaining characters upon the pedestal, 
 while Mr. Hamilton, and his companion, Major Leake, were 
 in Upper Egypt*. Therefore, whatsoever maybe the nature 
 of the intelligence derived from any subsequent examination 
 of those characters, it will be due in the first place to the 
 individual, who made known the- circumstance of their ex- 
 istence ; for not only the Members of the French Institute, 
 but all who were with our army in Egypt, and almost every 
 
 traveller 
 
 (2) This circumstance is mentioned in a Letter to his Brother, in the following words : 
 " I believe the Paper presented to the Antiquarian Society contains the best history of 
 the discovery of the, Alexandrian Inscription " (alluding to the misrepresentations 
 published upon the subject by Colonel Walsh and Sir R. Wilson). " I wish not to be 
 brought forward in any literary dispute ; but the fact is, thai most of the letters were 
 discovered by me while Messrs. Hamilton and Leake were in Upper Egypt. I had 
 seen the same Inscription in Pococke's Travels before, and knew of its existence from that 
 book." The next Extract is taken from a/ormer Letter written by Colonel Squire to 
 his Brother, from Alexandria : it relates to his discovery of the Inscription 5 and is dated 
 Alexandria, Christmas Day, 1801. " Here let me remark," says Colonel Squire, 
 " that it is not impossible but that part of the Inscription on the great pillar may be 
 read : II and O are legible enough ; and by other remains of characters, / can plainly 
 perceive that the Inscription consisted of four lines, in Greek. With sulphur, an impression 
 of these characters might be taken, aud perhaps something satisfactory discovered. 
 Before we quit the country, I will certainly endeavour to make the experiment." 
 
 The public will therefore perceive that all idea of attempting the discovery is due to 
 Colonel So.uire ; that he had the greatest share in its execution, and that even the 
 device of the sulphur is due to him. The Consul Maillet, about fifty years before, had 
 recommended wax for the same purpose : " Ce quil y a de certain, cest qu'au bas de 
 sonfut, du cote de Vouest, ou trouve une inscription Grecque, dont je ne ctois put qu'on 
 
 ait encore tire de copie Le seul moyen de I' avoir, seroit, a mon avis, d'en prendre 
 
 Vempreinte sur de la cire molle." Description de l'Egypte, torn. I. p. ISO. a la 
 Haye, 1740. 
 
 VOL. III. 2 L 
 

 258 
 
 CHAP. VII. 
 
 ALEXANDRIA. 
 
 traveller who has visited Alexandria since the time of 
 Pococke, did consider the Inscription as being entirely lost. 
 As for the Column itself, the shaft is of much earlier 
 antiquity than either the capital or the pedestal. A similar 
 shaft, of the same kind of granite, and nearly of equal mag- 
 nitude, has been already described' among the ruins of 
 another city, built also by the founder of Alexandria; 
 remaining, like this, alone, without any contiguous archi- 
 tecture serving to prove that a pillar of such vast dimen- 
 sions belonged to any temple, colonnade, or other edifice 
 of the antient city. It was before suggested, in the 
 account given of that remarkable relique, that each of these 
 columns may have supported a statue : but this notion of 
 the use of a single pillar is not found to be warranted by 
 any evidence on which we can rely. It is certain that some 
 conspicuous relique was placed upon the capital of the, 
 Alexandrian Column ; a circular cavity having been there 
 discovered, proving that there was formerly a projection 
 for its support". A question then naturally arises ; Whether 
 the antient inhabitants of Asia Minor, of Egypt, and of 
 Greece, were accustomed to use pillars for other purposes 
 
 than 
 
 (1) See Section the First, Chap. VI. of Part II. of these Travels. 
 
 (2) Norry describes a circular cavity, two inches deep, upon the summit j " which," 
 says he, " gives reason to suppose that there has formerly been a projection on the top 
 for supporting a statue; but this is merely conjecture." {See " Rapport," &c. as before 
 cited.) However, we have reason for more than conjecture upon this subject, as will 
 be manifest in the sequel 5 not indeed that a statue was here placed, whose pedestal 
 would hardly have been circular; but a cinerary urn, for the foot of which a circular 
 cavity is peculiarly suitable. 
 
ALEXANDRIA. 
 
 259 
 
 than those of architecture ? This question may be decidedly chap, vfi. 
 answered in the affirmative. The Stelce of the Antients had 
 precisely the form of the shaft of this Column ; although 
 no instance has yet been observed of a sepulchral pillar of 
 such magnitude. Indeed, until lately, the Stelce themselves 
 had been remarkably overlooked : they were as so many 
 stumbling-blocks to antiquaries; and nothing puzzled literary 
 travellers more than the numerous examples of small pillars 
 of granite, porphyry, and marble, scattered over the shores 
 of the iEgean Sea : these were found generally in the vicinity 
 of tombs, or near to the walls of cities where tombs v/ere 
 situated ; being always insulated, and generally without 
 capitals or pedestals. The Turks, imitating the customs of 
 their predecessors, have introduced them into their cene- 
 teries. Now and then a modern structure exhibits several 
 sUlce of different sizes, collected together, and made to serve 
 as props for the building: in such instances, capitals and 
 pedestals, in barbarous taste, and of various materials, have 
 been added to them. Remains of this kind may be dis- 
 cerned in some of the edifices erected in the lower ages of 
 the Roman Empire. Possibly, then, this pillar, stupendous 
 as it is, was erected upon some memorable occasion, as a 
 sepulchral monument. A few observations will soon shew 
 whether this possible illustration of its origin be also probable: 
 nay more; whether we have not strong presumptive evidence 
 to prove, that a monument of this form was actually erected 
 in this place, and for the purpose of a stele or sepulchral 
 pillar. 
 
 After a vain search for the Inscription, we observed that 
 
 the 
 
260 
 
 CHAP. VII. 
 
 ALEXANDRIA. 
 
 the pedestal itself did not rest upon the sand ; but that, by 
 removing some of this, we might get beneath it, and examine 
 the manner of its support. Here, to our surprise, we found 
 that the whole of this immense pile, consisting of three 
 parts, pedestal, shaft, and capital, was sustained upon a 
 small prop of stone, about four feet square, exactly as it is 
 described by Paul Lucas 1 , although positively contradicted 
 by Nprden*. Around this central base, but in very irregular 
 positions, had been placed other masses, the sepulchral 
 fragments of antient Egyptian monuments, which did not 
 appear to contribute to the support of the Column, but to 
 have been brought there for the purpose of maintaining the 
 prop in its adjusted situation until the pedestal could be 
 raised upon it. The prop itself consists of a mass of that 
 beautiful kind of breccia, called, peculiarly, Egyptian. The 
 four sides of it are inscribed with hieroglyphic figures ; but 
 the position of these figures shews that the prop has its 
 original base uppermost, for they appear inverted : thus 
 affording a complete proof, that the stone, whereon they are 
 inscribed, belonged to other more antient works ; and that 
 these must have been in ruins before the Column was erected 
 upon its present basis 3 . But this is not all the intelligence 
 
 we 
 
 (1) Voyage fait par Ordre de Louis XIV. en 1714. torn. II. p. 23. Amst. 1744. ' 
 
 (2) Travels in Egypt and Nubia, vol. I. p. 16. Lond. 17 57. 
 
 (3) See the Plate annexed; where those hieroglyphics are represented, according to 
 a design which the author made of them upon the spot, as accurately as the difficulty 
 of the situation, and the imperfect state of those rude symbols, would admit. 
 
I 
 
 Inverted positwn />/ the hieroglyphics seen en the sides if tbr smtare bir<rw pnvt under tt>e pedestal <f Jbmpeys Hilar, 
 
 /'///>/>:,/,.■,/ ~BforTi5.itJ3 /»■ TCaddl .<•//: Danes, Smnd'.Zendtm . 
 
ALEXANDRIA. 
 
 261 
 
 we derive from the topsyturvy position of the hieroglyphics : chap . 
 we have, in this curious circumstance, most satisfactory 
 evidence that this Column was not set up, as it now stands, 
 either by the antient inhabitants of Egypt, or by the people 
 of Alexandria under the Ptolemies; for nothing would be 
 more absurd, than to suppose that, in an age when Egyptian 
 superstitions were revered, and the hieroglyphics were re- 
 garded as sacred, such sacrilegious work would have been 
 tolerated, as the burying of the holy images and symbols, 
 pell-mell, to prop and to support a Corinthian pillar, even if it 
 could be admitted that such an order of architecture then 
 existed. Hence it is manifest, without further inquiry, 
 that this monument, as it now appears, must be attributed 
 entirely to the Romans ; since the warmest advocates for 
 the arts and ingenuity of the Arabs will not venture to 
 ascribe a work of this kind to the Moslems, in any period 
 of their history. This is nearly all the intelligence we can 
 obtain concerning it. The Inscription upon the pedestal, as 
 its characters were obtained in consequence of Colonel 
 Squire's discovery, gives us no information as to the origin 
 of the Column, although it may throw some light upon its 
 restoration under its present form. The only visible part 
 of the legend is as follows: 4 
 
 TO ooTATONAYTOKPATOPA 
 
 TONnOAIOYXONAAGEANAPeiAC 
 
 AIO .... IANONTON TON 
 
 no enAPXocAirYnTOY 
 
 In 
 
 (4) See the communication made by Dr. Raine to the Society of Antiquaries, as 
 read before the Society, Feb. 3, 1803. 
 
262 
 
 CHAP. VII. 
 
 ALEXANDRIA 
 
 In the third line, the fourth, fifth, sixth and seventh letters, 
 being indistinct, were supplied by dotted characters 1 , in 
 order to complete a supposed reading of AIOKAHTIANON. 
 But this introduction of the name of a Roman Emperor, 
 without an epithet immediately preceding it, is unusual ; 
 and when letters are thus to be added by conjecture, or in 
 consequence of some imaginary resemblance, in the indi- 
 stinct traces of the original legend, to the characters which 
 have been substituted, every person is at liberty to make his 
 own hypothesis ; provided only that a reading be produced 
 which shall contain exactly the number of letters requisite 
 to fill the vacant spaces upon the stone. For example, the 
 perpendicular line of the dotted K, as proposed in the paper 
 read to the Society of Antiquaries 2 , may with equal authority 
 be written N. The two lines of the A may also belong to 
 A. The cross bar of the H may be the lower line of A, and 
 the T may with equal probability be written p ; and when this 
 is granted, the reading becomes evidently AIONAAPIANON. 
 The use of AI02, as an epithet, answering to DIWS, so fre- 
 quently bestowed upon Roman Emperors, and particularly 
 upon Hadrian 3 , although authorized in this sense by Hesiod 
 and by Homer, is perhaps unknown in Greek prose. 
 
 Hadrian 
 
 (1) According to the plan pursued by Taylor, when he added the letters supposed 
 to be wanted in the Marmor Sandvicense. 
 
 (2) See Dr. Raine's communication, as above. 
 
 (3) Sic passim. " Ut Divus Hadrianus in quadam oratione ait." &c. (Uljnauus. 
 lib.50. Dig. tit 15. de Censibus, &c. &c.) IMP . CAESARI . DIVI . HADRIANI . fee. 
 Donii Inscript. Antiq. ah Gorio. Classis tertia, No.lG, See also Nos. 17, 18, &i 
 Florent. 1731. 
 
ALEXANDRIA. 
 
 Hadrian was called, by the Greeks 4 , both AAPIANOC 
 OAYMniOC and GEOC OAYMniOC. The epithet Aiog was 
 consequently appropriate , and the more so, as it was 
 poetical; the language of poetry being often adopted in 
 Greek inscriptions, which are very commonly written in 
 metre 3 . At the same time, it must be confessed that there 
 is this powerful objection to the reading now proposed; 
 that among all the epithets applied to Roman Emperors 
 which are preserved by Gronovius, Goltzius, Gorius, 
 Vaillant, Harduin, and Eckhel, there is not an example 
 where Aiog is thus used. In this uncertainty with regard 
 to the four letters which immediately follow AIO in this 
 Inscription, it must remain for some future traveller to 
 determine what the true reading really is. The probability 
 is certainly strong for AIOKAHTI ANON, but this is by no 
 means certain; and in favour of AIONAAPIANON, it may 
 be urged, that Sicard, as cited by Brotier , who examined 
 
 the 
 
 263 
 
 CHAP. VII. 
 
 (4) See Harduin. Num. Antiq. p. 329. Paris, 1684. Also Vaillant. Num. Imp. 
 pp. 34, 30. L. Par. 1698. Spanhem mentions an Athenian medal with this inscription 
 to Hadrian : OAYMIIION . IftTHPA . TON . EYEPrETHN . De Prcestantia et 
 Usu Num. p. 384. Amst. 1671. 
 
 (5) Such inscriptions are commonly found in Asia Minor, and among the ruins of 
 Paphos in Cyprus ; also in the Island of Rhodes. See Part II. Sect. I. of these Travels, 
 Chap. 8. 
 
 (rj) Sicard believed the name to be that of Dionysius Ptolemceus, brother of 
 Cleopatra, by whose order Pompey was assassinated. " Serapeum fait in vico, cui 
 nomen Necropolis, prope Columnam Pompeii, ut vulgo loquuntur ; quam verius 
 columnam Dionysii Ptolemcei dicerent, ut ex semesis inscriptiones Uteris observavit 
 P. Sicard egregius yEgyptiacarum antiquitatum indagator. {Vid. Brotier. Annot. in 
 Tacit. Hist. lib. iv. cap. 84.) The circumstance of Sicard's maintaining that the name 
 at the beginning of the third line of the Inscription was Dionysius, &c. proves, 
 at least, that he read AION, and not AIOK. 
 

 ALEXANDRIA. 
 
 the Inscription long ago, declared the fourth letter to be N 
 instead of K. In order to account for the introduction of 
 Diocletian s name, the supposed gratitude of the people of 
 Alexandria to Diocletian, for an allowance of corn, has been 
 mentioned 1 ; but there is no authority in History either for 
 the tribute itself, or for the feelings thereby believed to 
 have been commemorated. Hadrian, on the contrary, for 
 the services he rendered to their city, was pre-eminently 
 entitled to their gratitude. This is evident from his 
 own observations, when speaking of Alexandria 2 : " Huic 
 
 EGO CUNCTA CONCESSI, VETERA PRIVILEGIA REDDIDI, NOVA 
 
 sic addidi, ut pr^esenti gratias agerent." Hadrian, ac- 
 cording to Dio Cassius, performed funeral rites to Pompey 3 . 
 Julius Caesar had done the same 4 ; and it is related, both 
 by Lucan " and by Valerius Maximus e , that when the head 
 of Pompey was brought to him in Alexandria, he caused 
 it to be burned with odours and the most solemn rites, 
 
 and 
 
 (1) " The occasion may perhaps be found in that part of the history of this 
 Emperor, where, after having severely chastised the inhabitants of Alexandria ivho had 
 rebelled against the government, he established a public allowance of corn for the city 
 at two millions of medimni. See the Memoir read to the Society of Antiquaries, 
 Feb. 3, 1803, as before cited. 
 
 (2) Epistola Hadriani Aug. Serviano Cos. /Egypt. Vid. Vopisc. in Satur?iino, 
 p. 245. 
 
 (3) Dio Cass. Hist. Rom. lib. lxix. vol. II. p. 115y. Hamb. 1750. 
 
 (4) Ibid. lib. xlii. c. 8. vol.1, p. 310. 
 
 (5) De Bell. Civil, lib. ix. ad fin. 
 
 (6) " Caput autem plurimis et prcticsissimis odoribus cremandum curavit." Vdlerii 
 Maximi, lib. v. p. 246. Paris, 1679- 
 
ALEXANDRIA. 265 
 
 and its ashes to be enshrined within an urn '. It sometimes t chap.vii. 
 was customary with the Romans to place their cinerary sepulchral 
 
 J origin of the 
 
 urns in conspicuous situations, upon the pinnacles of lofty Column - 
 and magnificent monuments. The famous Cone, or Pine- 
 apple, of gilded brass, preserved in the Vatican at Rome, 
 and originally placed upon the Mausoleum of Hadrian, was 
 perhaps intended to contain the ashes of that Emperor : 
 and in the examination of the Alexandrian Column, we find 
 the extraordinary coincidences, first, of the workmanship, 
 which is decidedly Roman ; secondly, of its form, which is 
 that of a Stele or sepulchral pillar ; thirdly, of a circular 
 cavity discovered upon its capital, as for the reception of an 
 urn; all agreeing with its remarkable traditionary appellation 
 of Pompey's Pillar. Some little variety, as might be expected, 
 appears in the accounts given by writers of different ages, 
 with regard to the manner in which funeral honours were 
 rendered to Pompey's head by Julius Caesar. Lucan's allu- 
 sion to an urn is however consistent with the Roman custom 
 of burning instead of burying the dead; and it is supported 
 by the earlier testimony of Valerius Maximus. Appian, 
 who flourished during the subsequent reigns of Trajan 
 and Hadrian, says the head was buried; but he adds the 
 
 remarkable 
 
 (7) " Et placate caput, cineresque in litore fuso* 
 
 Colligite, atque imam sparsis date manibus urnani." 
 
 Lucani de Bell. Civil, lib. ix. IO92. Lips. 1726. 
 Fabricius, in his Notes to Dio Cassius (lib. xlii. Note 50.) mentions an antient gem, 
 the subject of which represented the bringing of Pompey's head to Caesar. " Icon 
 ollati CcBsari capitis Pompeii in veteri gemma apud Licetum, p. 248." 
 VOL. III. 2 M 
 

 ALEXANDRIA. 
 
 remarkable fact of a shrine constructed over it 1 , in a situation 
 exactly answering to that of this pillar, which Caesar dedi- 
 cated to Nemesis, the protecting goddess of the reliques and 
 the memory of deceased persons. This, it seems, was over- 
 thrown in the time of Trajan ; which may explain the cause 
 of its restoration by Hadrian. It is also worthy of notice, 
 that Pococke mentions a name given to this monument by 
 Arabian historians, which bears testimony to the event 
 recorded by Appian ; inasmuch as it attributes the origin of 
 the work to Julius Caesar 9 . The presumptive evidence is 
 therefore somewhat striking, as to the corresponding testi- 
 mony borne by the monument itself to the funeral honours 
 rendered to Pompey both by Julius Caesar and by Hadrian, 
 whatsoever be the legend of the Inscription upon its pedestal. 
 A circumstance recorded by Dio Cassius, in his life of Ha- 
 drian; may also prove that this kind of monument was, in 
 the age of that Emperor, no unusual mark of sepulchral 
 
 dignity ; 
 
 (1) Trjv $e KtiJHxXrjv tov Y\ofnrr]iov jrpofT^tpofxivyjp ovv inriaTT], ciWci irpoviTa'^t 
 ratyijvai, Kai- ri avr)] TEMEN02 fipavv, irpo- rrji; 7r6Xtuc irtpiTtOti', NEME2Efl£ 
 TEMEN02 eicaXeiTO' owip rV ifiov Kard'Yufiaiuv avTOKpdropa 'Tpa'iavov, t^oWvrra 
 to iv AiyvTTTu ^loveaiuv yivos, vrro tuv \ovZaiuv eg rdc tov TroXt/uov -^piia<: KaTrjptitpdtj. 
 " Caput autem Pompeii oblatum aversatur Ccesar, sepeliri jussit in suburbis, 
 sacelfumque ibi dedicavit Nemeseos ; quod nostra aetate, quum Trajanus Augusms 
 Judaeos exitiali bello persequeretur, ab his ob praesentem necessitatem est dirutum." 
 Appiani Rom. Hist. De Bell. Civil. lib.W. vol. II. p. 299. Ed. Schweigh. Lips. 1785. 
 
 (2) " Some Arabian historians, on what authority I know not, call it the Palace 
 of Julius Caesar." (Pocockes Descript. of the East, vol.1, p. 8. Lond. 1743.) The 
 authority is clearly found in the circumstance related by Appian {De Bell. Civil, lib. ii. 
 c. 90. Lips. 1785.) of the shrme (riptvoc) constructed by Julius Caesar at the funeral 
 of Pompey s head. 
 
ALEXANDRIA. 
 
 dignity ; for when he wished to honour his horse Borys- 
 thenes with funeral rites worthy of a deceased hero, it is 
 related that he set up a Stele upon bis tomb 3 . 
 
 From the different accounts given by historians of the 
 disposal of Pompey's remains, (his head being honoured with 
 funeral rites at Alexandria 4 , and his body, according to some 
 writers, burned and buried near Pelusium 5 , while others main- 
 tain that its ashes were conveyed to Rome 6 ,) the place of his 
 sepulchre is involved in uncertainty 7 ; but every thing that 
 relates to the historical evidence touching the funeral rites 
 offered to his memory by Roman Emperors in Alexandria, is 
 clear and decisive ; and when Dio Cassius relates that Hadrian, 
 in a copy of verses which he composed, boasted he had 
 repaired the monument formerly raised to Pompey 8 , it is 
 
 probable 
 
 (3) Kai 6 YiopvaQi'i'ns 6 'tirrroQ, <Z pdXiara 6np(~>v tjpeaKero, arj^tuov itrriv. dwoQavSvTi 
 yap avTf teal rd<(>ov tcaTacrKtvarre, Kal 2THAHN tart/ae teal Emypdj.ip.aTa ireypax^ey. 
 Dio Cass. Hist. Rom. vol. II. lib. lxix. p. 115Q. Hamburg. i;50. 
 
 (4) Appian. De Bell. Civil, lib. ii. c. go. Lips. 1785. Valerius Maximus. 
 Lucan. De Bell. Civil, lib. ix. Lips. 1726. 
 
 (5) Strabon. Geog. torn. II. lib.xvi. p. 1081. lib. xvii. p. 1130. Ed. Oxon. 1807 . 
 Dio. Cassii, lib. xlii. c. 5. vol. I. p. 3(X). Hamburg. 1750. Appiani Alex. De Bellis 
 Civil, lib. ii. p. 481. Par. 1592. Lucan. De Bell. Civil, lib. viii, &c. 
 
 (6) Ta St \ei\pava rovWopirrjiov Kopvr^Xia Be^ap-ivi] KofiitrQivra, irepl tov AXfiavov 
 tdtficev. Plutarch, in Fit. Pomp. Par. l6'24. 
 
 (7) " Atque erit ^Egyptos populis fortasse nepotum 
 
 " Tarn mendax Magni turnulo, quam Creta Tonantis." 
 
 Lucani de Bell. Civil, lib. viii. p. 87 1. Lips. 1726. 
 
 (8) Kai to pt,vr\p.a avrov StetyOappivov dvoyicocoprjaev. (Dio Cass. Hist. Rom. 
 lib. lxix. vol. II. Hamburg. 1 750.) It should at the same time be observed, that Spartian, 
 c. 1 4. together with Appian, and some other writers, speak of a restoration by Hadrian of 
 Pompey's sepulchre, at Pelusium, near Mount Cassius j that is to say, the sepulchre of his 
 
 body ; 
 

 
 268 
 
 CHAP. VII. 
 
 ALEXANDRIA. 
 
 probable that he alluded to this sepulchral pillar ; bearing, 
 besides its traditionary name, the marks of restoration, and 
 the most characteristic features of the purpose for which 
 it was erected. 
 
 A few remarks, with regard to the rest of the Inscription, 
 will conclude the whole of our observations upon this 
 magnificent and interesting monument. 
 
 The epithet at the conclusion of the third line could 
 not be ascertained at the time the Inscription was again 
 recognised 1 ; but there appeared to be five characters wanted. 
 These five characters have been ingeniously supplied by a 
 learned friend of the author 2 , for they are evidently the first five 
 letters of the word cebacton. The Prefect's name, at the 
 beginning of the fourth line, was supposed 3 to be Ylo^n'iog ; 
 but the third letter is found to be c, and not M, and it was 
 thus read by Pococke many years before 4 . Having therefore 
 noc, we may read nocTOMOC. This name is found in 
 
 Gruter, 
 
 body ; the information concerning which, as derived from the Antients, is not only 
 uncertain, but contradictory. But Appian also mentions another distinct sepulchral 
 TE/utvor, erected over the head of Pompey at Alexandria by Julius Caesar. This was 
 ruined in the time of Trajan ; and it is to the restoration of this monument, by Hadrian, 
 which Dio Cassius seems to allude, under the words /j,rij/j,a avrov. 
 
 (1) See the Paper read to the Society of Antiquaries, Feb. 3, 1803. 
 
 (2) The Rev. George Adam Browne, M.A. Fellow of Trinity College, Cambridge, 
 the intimate friend of the late Professor Poison, and of Dr. Raine, late of the 
 Charter House. Mr. Browne also proposed the substitution of J\o<rrofxo<; for Ylofxinjiot 
 in the fourth line. 
 
 (3) See Paper mentioned in Note (l). 
 
 (4) See Pococke's copy of the Inscription. Description of the East, vol. I. p. 8. 
 Note (d). Lond. 1743. 
 
ALEXANDRIA. 
 
 <G:uter, in several instances, written Postumus*. It occurs 
 in an inscription discovered upon an edifice which contains 
 the famous Zodiac at Dendera in Upper Egypt 6 , as the 
 mime of a Praefect who lived under Augustus. We have, 
 moreover, in the Dendera inscription, a sort of formula 
 enabling us to supply the last line, which is entirely wanted. 
 We there read the words OlAnoTHiMHTPOnoAE.QX, wc The 
 People of the Metropolis." Upon the whole, then, that has 
 been before adduced, and with the aid of the document 
 alluded to, it is proposed to read the Inscription upon 
 Pcmpey's Pillar in the following manner; the Reader being 
 left to use his own judgment as to the introduction of 
 Htdriaris name, or that of Diocletian, in the third line. We 
 have rather preferred the former, for the reasons already 
 given. 
 
 TONTIMICJUTATONAYTOKPATOPA 
 TONinOAIOYXONAAEZANAPEIAC 
 AIONAAPIANONTONCEBACTON 
 nOCTOMOCEriAPXOCAirYnTOY 
 
 KAIOIAnOTHCMHTPOnOAEDS 
 
 269 
 
 CHAP. VII. 
 
 POSTUMUS PREFECT OF EGYPT, AKD THE PEOPLE OF THE 
 METROPOLIS, {'honour') THE MOST REVERED EMPEROR, 
 THE PROTECTING DIVINITY OF ALEXANDRIA, THE DIVINE 
 HADRIAN AUGUSTUS." 
 
 In 
 
 (5) See Gruter. Inscript. 113. 1. — 172. 10. &c. &c. Amst. 1707. 
 
 (6) See Denon, Hamilton, &c. The Inscription was also copied by several of our 
 orficers who came with the Indian army to Egypt. It is there written Marcus Clodius 
 Postumus. Denon wrote the name ITOCTOYMOC. 
 

 270 
 
 CHAP. VII. 
 
 ALEXANDRIA. 
 
 In the forenoon of this day, the author waited upon 
 General Menou, requesting a passport, that might enable 
 him to pass and repass the outer gate, to and from the 
 British camp ; and at the same time made application for 
 permission to copy the Inscriptions upon the Rosetta Tablet, 
 which was still carefully concealed. One of the Aid-de- 
 Camps conducted him into a small tent, pitched in a 
 spacious area, or square, near the inner gates of Alexandria, 
 where the parade of the garrison was daily held. This 
 tent, small as it was, had been separated into two parts by 
 a curtain, behind which Menou had his Charem ;, giving 
 audience in 1 the outer part, near to the entrance, where there 
 was hardly room enough to stand upright. Having waited 
 some time, during which women's voices were heard in 
 conversation behind the partition, the curtain was suddenly 
 raised, and .Taques Abd'aUah made his appearance. A more 
 grotesque figure can hardly be conceived. He wore a 
 flowered embroidered waistcoat, with flaps almost to his 
 knees, and a coat covered with broad lace. Elevating his 
 whiskered face and double chin, in order to give all imagi- 
 nable pomp and dignity to his squat corpulent figure, 
 which covered with finery much resembled that of a 
 mountebank, he demanded, in an imperious tone of voice, 
 " Que souhaite-t-il, Monsieur Clarke?" Having explained the 
 cause of the visit, as far as it related to the passport, and 
 being directed to apply for this to Rdne, General of Brigade, 
 the author ventured to introduce the subject of the Rosetta 
 Stone ; stating, that he was about to return to Lord 
 
 Hutchinson, 
 
ALEXANDRIA. 2^1 
 
 Hutchinson, and wished to obey the orders he had received chap.vii. 
 from his Lordship, for copying the Inscription. At the very 
 mention of this Stone, Menou gave vent to his rage ; and, 
 ready to burst with choler, exclaimed, " You may tell your 
 Commander-in-chief he has as much right to make this 
 demand, as a highwayman has to ask for my purse ! He 
 has a cannon in each of my ears, and another in my mouth ; 
 let him take what pleases him. I have a few embroidered 
 saddles, and a tolerable stock of shirts, perhaps he may 
 fancy some of these !" The author assured him that he 
 could be the bearer of no message of this kind ; but what- 
 ever he might think proper to put in writing, should be 
 carefully conveyed, and as punctually delivered. Having 
 left the tent, and waited upon General Rene for the passport, 
 while this was preparing 1 , a note came from Menou for 
 Lord Hutchinson. With this note the author and his com- 
 panions set out for the English camp ; and arriving at head- 
 quarters, presented it to his Lordship, making known at the 
 same time all that had transpired concerning the Sarcophagus 
 from the Mosque of St. Athanasius, together with the in- 
 telligence which had been obtained with regard to the other 
 antiquities. To Menou's note his Lordship disdained making 
 any reply ; transmitting only a verbal message, cautioning 
 him to beware of sending any more messages or letters to 
 him, but to obey the conditions proposed for the surrender of 
 
 Alexandria, 
 
 (l) See a copy of the original, in the Appendix. 
 

 272 
 
 CHAP. VII. 
 
 ALEXANDRIA 
 
 Alexandria, upon pain of having not only his own baggage, 
 but that of all the officers of the French army, submitted to an 
 examination. All the antiquities, without reservation, were to 
 be delivered to the English ; and to this demand was added an 
 order for the collection of specimens belonging to Natural 
 History, and whatsoever other literary acquisition had been 
 made in Egypt for the French nation. His Lordship directed 
 that the most diligent inquiry should be made concerning 
 every thing of this nature; and having given orders for a 
 supply of provisions to accompany us upon our return, offered 
 the use of his horses while we remained in Alexandria, and a 
 groom to assist us in taking care of them. After this we 
 had an opportunity of witnessing the sort of fare which the 
 Commander-in-chief of a British army, who had so liberally 
 provided for others, allowed for his own use. He gave 
 us a general invitation to his table; adding, "If you have 
 appetite enough to dine with a soldier, you will this day 
 have something more than usually substantial." The 
 dinner was served in his tent, and we sat down: it consisted 
 of the remaining half of a cold pie, made by one of 
 the privates the day before, containing some lumps of 
 meat encased in a durable crust about an inch thick, of the 
 coarsest flour : a surprising contrast to the magnificent 
 entertainment we had experienced with the Anglo- Indian 
 army in the Isle of Rhouda. Some of the officers in- 
 formed us that such was his daily diet ; and that it rarely 
 differed from the allowance made to the common soldiers of 
 the army. In the evening we returned. It was quite 
 
 dark, 
 
ALEXANDRIA. 
 
 273 
 
 dark, and the gates were shut ; but we found no difficulty 
 ini obtaining admission, by means of our passport. 
 
 Saturday, September the twelfth. This day the flesh of 
 horses, asses, and camels, sold, in the market, at a price 
 nearly equivalent to half a guinea of our money, for a single 
 rottda, equal to about a pound and a quarter. Mr. Hamilton 
 went with us to the French head-quarters, and undertook to 
 mention to Menou the result of our visit to Lord Hutchinson. 
 We remained near the outside of the tent; and soon heard 
 the French General's voice, elevated as usual, and in strong- 
 terms of indignation remonstrating against the injustice of 
 the demands made upon him. The words " Jamais on na 
 pith Ic monde !" diverted us highly, as coming from a 
 leader of plunder and devastation. He threatened to publish 
 an account of the transaction in all the Gazettes of Europe ; 
 and, as Mr. Hamilton withdrew, we heard him vociferate a 
 menace of meeting Lord Hutchinson in single combat — 
 " Nous nous verrons, de bien prcs — de Men pres, je vous 
 assure /" However, Colonel, now General, Turner, who 
 had arrived also in Alexandria, with orders from our Com- 
 mander-in-chief respecting the surrender of the Antiquities, 
 soon brought this matter to a conclusion. The different 
 forts were now occupied by our army ; and the condition 
 of the garrison was such, that Menou did not deem it 
 prudent to resist any longer: he reluctantly submitted to 
 the loss of his literary trophies. The Rosetta Tablet 
 was taken from a warehouse, covered with mats, where it 
 had been deposited with Menou's baggage; and it was 
 
 vol. in. 2 n surren- 
 
 CHAP. VII. 
 
 Surrender of 
 the Rosetta 
 Tablet. 
 
274 
 
 ALEXANDRIA. 
 
 chap. vii. surrendered to us, by a French officer and Member of the 
 Institute, in the streets of Alexandria ; Mr. Cripps, Mr. 
 Hamilton, and the author, being the only persons present, 
 to take possession of it. The officer appointed to deliver it 
 recommended its speedy conveyance to some place of safety, 
 as he could not be answerable for the conduct of the French 
 soldiers, if it were suffered to remain exposed to their 
 indignation. We made this circumstance known to Lord 
 Hutchinson, who gave orders for its immediate removal; and 
 it was given in charge to General Turner, under whose 
 direction all the monuments of Egyptian antiquity, resigned 
 to us by the articles of the capitulation, were afterwards 
 conveyed to England 1 . 
 
 Every thing now seemed to indicate the speedy evacua- 
 tion of the garrison by the French 2 . The officers and 
 soldiers were actively employed in selling the plunder they 
 had made. Negro slaves of both sexes, watches, jewels, 
 horses, camels, sabres, were bartered in all parts of the city. 
 A plain silver watch might be bought for three or four 
 dollars ; a fine Arabian horse, for about five and twenty. 
 A French General sold two horses, of perfect beauty, with 
 their saddles and bridles, to an English clergyman, chaplain 
 in the fleet, for fifty dollars. Several valuable camels, from 
 the great scarcity of every kind of provender, were turned 
 
 adrift, 
 
 (1) See Hamilton's ^gyptiaca, p. 402. Lond. I8O9. 
 
 (2) The first division of the French army embarked at Aboukir on the 14th of 
 September. 
 
ALEXANDRIA. 
 
 275 
 
 adrift, to find owners without the gates ; no purchasers being chap , vii. 
 
 found, who would undertake the charge of them within the 
 
 walls. A better understanding, however, began to subsist, intercourse 
 
 between the 
 
 at this time, between the contending forces. Some strag- Annies. 
 glers from the French army advanced, during the day- 
 time, into the neutral ground between the two armies, and 
 there offered their Egyptian sabres, and other articles, for 
 sale to the English : here and there, even in the British 
 camp, might be seen a French officer joining in conviviality 
 with our troops ; drinking toasts for the health of King- 
 George, the success of the capitulation, and a speedy deli- 
 verance from the government of Menou. The utmost 
 harmonv and good-humour prevailed at these meetings: 
 and a sincere desire to quit the country was evident on the 
 part of the French soldiers ; every one of whom seemed 
 to consider himself as upon an equal footing, even with the 
 Generals of his own army 3 . 
 
 In the course of this dav, we visited the Members of French insti- 
 
 J tl.t.V 
 
 the French Institute, at the house where they held their 
 sittings ; and found them assembled round a long table, 
 inspecting and packing a number of drawings, plans, and 
 
 maps. 
 
 tute. 
 
 (3) A Creole trumpeter, who had served under Buonaparte in his campaigns of Italy 
 and Egypt, and pretended to have been always about his person, came one day, and 
 asked, when the garrison of Alexandria would sail for France ? As we could neither 
 answer this question, nor were disposed to pay any attention to the account he gave of 
 himself, he said, " If you should mention the name of LEsprit to the little Corsican, 
 you will find that I am pretty well known to him :" and, by way of proving his im- 
 porance, he added, " Quandj'arriverai a Paris, je lui ferai expliquer pourquoi il me 
 lausa dans ce maudit pays-ci." 
 
w* 
 
 
 
 276 
 
 CHAP. VII. 
 
 ALEXANDRIA 
 
 maps 1 . We were very politely received, at our entrance, by 
 Monsieur Le ■ Pere, Architect, Director of the Class of 
 Civil Engineers : and we experienced from all of them that 
 urbanity, which, in despite of the impressions and pre- 
 judices caused by the consequences of hostility, and the 
 lawless deeds of a promiscuous soldiery during the ravages 
 of war, must yet be considered as the distinguishing charac- 
 teristic 
 
 (1) The FRENCH INSTITUTE of Egypt was divided into four sections; 
 severally consisting of the Mathematics, Physics, Political Economy, Literature and 
 the Fine Arts. The following persons were its Members. 
 
 (Tfiose marked with an asterisk had left Egypt at the time of our arrival.) 
 
 MATHEMATICS. 
 
 Malus. 
 
 * Monge. 
 Nouet. 
 
 * yuesnot. 
 
 * Dubois (pert). 
 Geoffroy. 
 Larrey. 
 Savigny. 
 
 * Andreossy. 
 
 s 
 | 
 
 Girard. 
 
 * Buonaparte. 
 
 Lancret. 
 
 Costaz. 
 
 
 Le Pere. 
 
 Fourier, perpetual Secre- 
 
 
 * LeRoy. 
 
 tary of the Institute. 
 
 
 PHYSICS. 
 
 * Beauchamp. 
 
 
 Delisle. 
 
 * Berthollet. 
 
 
 Descotils. 
 
 Boudet. 
 
 
 Desgenettes. 
 
 Chanipy (pert). 
 
 X 
 
 * Dolomieu. 
 
 Conte\ 
 
 \ 
 
 
 Corancey. 
 
 * Dugua. 
 
 * Fauvelet-Bourienne. 
 
 Denon. 
 Dutertre. 
 Le Pere. 
 
 Norry. 
 
 POLITICAL ECONOMY. 
 
 Jacotin. 
 * Poussielque. 
 
 LITERATURE and ARTS. 
 
 \ * Parseval. 
 
 Protain. 
 \ Don-Raphael. 
 
 Redoute. 
 
 Reynier. 
 Tallien. 
 
 Rigo. 
 Rjgel. 
 Ripaut. 
 
 To these Sections of the Institute were also annexed the following persons, under the 
 several heads of 
 
 Librarians. 
 Coquebert. M^ehain. 
 
 Commission of Agriculture. 
 Champy (pe"re). Nectoux. 
 
 Delisle. 
 
 COMMJS- 
 
ALEXANDRIA. 
 
 277 
 
 tcristic of the French people, in their conduct even towards chap. vh. 
 their enemies. We assured them, that although our business 
 ir Alexandria related to the literary acquisitions made for their 
 nition by their army in Egypt, it had nothing whatsoever to 
 do with the private collections or journals of individuals ; 
 and therefore we hoped they would allow us to compare 
 notes with them upon certain points of observation, in which 
 
 we 
 
 COMMISSION of ARTS and SCIENCES. 
 
 
 Antiquaries. 
 
 Ripault. 
 
 * Pourlier. 
 
 
 Architects. 
 
 Balzac. 
 
 * Norry. 
 
 Le Pere. 
 
 Protain. 
 
 
 Astronomers. 
 
 Nouet. 
 
 M^chain (fiL 
 
 CJuesnot. 
 
 
 
 Botanists. 
 
 Deslisle. 
 
 Nectoux. 
 
 Coquebert. 
 
 
 
 Chemists. 
 
 Berthollet. 
 
 Descotils. 
 
 Cbampy (p 
 
 "•re). Cbampy (fils) 
 
 
 Swgeons. 
 
 Dubois. 
 
 Lacypierre. 
 
 Labate. 
 
 
 Artist for Design. 
 
 
 Dutertre. 
 
 
 Geometricians. 
 
 Monge. 
 
 Costaz. 
 
 Fourier. 
 
 Coranccy. 
 
 
 Engraver. 
 
 
 Fouquet. 
 
 
 Civil Engineers. 
 
 Le Pere. 
 
 Caristie. 
 
 Girard. 
 
 Favier. 
 
 Faye. 
 
 Dubois. 
 
 Le Pere (Gratian). Devilliers. 
 
 Martin. 
 
 Moline. 
 
 Saint Gen is 
 
 Duchanoy. 
 
 Lancret. 
 
 Alibert. 
 
 Fevre. 
 
 Regnault. 
 
 Chabrol. 
 
 Bernard. 
 
 Jollois. 
 
 Potier. 
 
 Raffeneau. 
 
 Viard. 
 
 Arnolet. 
 
 
 Geographical Engineers. 
 Jacotin. Bertrc. 
 
 Simonel. Lecesne. 
 
 Levesque. Larocbe. 
 
 Joinard. Faurie. 
 
 Corabeuf. 
 
 Engineers' Constructors. 
 Boucher. * Gresle. 
 
 Chaumont. 
 
 Oriental Literature. 
 
 Marcel. 
 * Joubert. 
 Belletete. 
 
 Raige. 
 Delaporte 
 
 
 Literati. 
 
 * Denon. 
 
 * Parseval. 
 
 Lerouge. 
 
 Mechanics. 
 Conte. Coutelle. 
 
 Artists. 
 Adnea (pere). Adnes (fils). 
 
 Ctfcile (Mecha- Couvreur. 
 
 nical Engineer). Lenoir {Mathematical 
 Ainie. Instrument Maker) . 
 
 Collin. 
 
 Musicians. 
 Rigel. Villoteau. 
 
 Mineralogists. 
 * Dolomieu. Roziere. 
 
 Cordier. Dupuy. 
 
 Naturalists. 
 Geoffroi. Savigny. 
 
 Fainters. 
 Redoubte, (Puinter of Natural History). 
 
 Rigo. 
 Boudet. 
 
 Apothecaries. 
 
 Roubieres. 
 Sculptor. 
 Casteix. 
 

 278 
 
 CHAP VII. 
 
 ALEXANDRIA. 
 
 we might be mutually interested ; and we further solicited 
 permission to consult the splendid map of Egypt which their 
 geographers had completed. This proposition was not acceded 
 to on their part ; nor, perhaps, was it reasonable, at that 
 time, to expect that our request could be complied with. 
 They very candidly confessed, that it would give them 
 pleasure to satisfy our curiosity any where else ; but that, 
 under the present circumstances, they could only consider 
 our inquiry as likely to lead to additional demands on the part 
 of our Commander-in-chief; and for this reason alone they 
 must decline acceding to our request. We had, however, a 
 short conversation with them upon the subject of the Ruins 
 of Sa/is, which their countryman Savary had mentioned 
 among the desirable objects of discovery in Egypt'; although 
 Egmont and Heyman had published their notice of them 
 twenty years before Savary began the account of his travels 
 in the country 2 . These Ruins had altogether escaped their 
 observation. They said that their researches had always 
 been restricted to the march of their army, and therefore, 
 in Lower Egypt, had been principally confined to the western 
 side of the Nile; that they had heard of the ruins at S'el- 
 hajar, but did not conceive them to be so considerable as 
 we had found them. Being asked whether any of them had 
 seen the interior of an Egyptian sepulchre, containing mum- 
 mies, before the position of the bodies had been disturbed by 
 
 the 
 
 (1) See Savary's Letters on Egypt, vol. II. Lett. 73. Lond. 1786. 
 
 (2) Savary's first Letter is dated July 24, 1777- 
 
ALEXANDRIA. 
 
 279 
 
 CHAP. VII. 
 
 the Arabs, they answered in the negative. With this infor- 
 mation we took our leave of them, accompanied by one of 
 the younger Members of the Institute, who kindly offered to 
 accompany us to the Catacombs of Necropolis, lying west- 
 ward of Alexandria. These we were now desirous to 
 examine. 
 
 Among all the antiquities of this once celebrated city, cr yP t»ot 
 
 *5 J ^ Necropolis. 
 
 which after the destruction of Carthage ranked next to Rome 
 in magnitude and population, the Cryptae of Necropolis are 
 the least known, and the most wonderful. They have been 
 incidentally but not frequently mentioned, in the various 
 descriptions given of Alexandria in books of modern travels 3 ; 
 but the Antients have left us much in the dark concerning 
 their history. Strabo indeed, after giving an account of a 
 navigable canal which extended from the Old Port to the 
 Lake Mareotis, carries his observations westward, and 
 notices the Catacombs, under the name of Necropolis 4 . In 
 the very brief description which he has given of them, 
 
 enough 
 
 (3) See the " Description de I'Egypte" par Maillet, torn. I. p. l6Q. A la Haye, 
 1740. Pococke's Descr. of the East, vol.1. Lond. 1743. Norden's Travels, vol.1, 
 p. 17. Lond. 1756, &c. Savary's Letters on Egypt, vol. I. p. 43. Lond. 1786. An 
 Extract from Savary may afford a specimen of the manner in which these Catacombs 
 have been generally noticed. This writer does not. seem to have ever entered them. 
 " At half a league's distance to the southward of the town, is the descent into the 
 Catacombs, the antient asylum of the dead. Winding passages lead to the subterraneous 
 grottoes where they were deposited." 
 
 (4) Ef0' >') NeKp(')7ro\i<;, to rrpodfTTvov (sic leg. Cod. MSS. Medic. Esc. et Paris. Fid. 
 Led. Far. in Stralon. edit. Oxon.) tv § k^tto'i re iroXXol ical rcubal icai icarayayai, 
 rpoc rac rapi^e'tcn; tuv ve^puv bctrrfieiai, Stralon. Geog. lib. xvii. p. 1128. ed. Oxoti. 
 1807. 
 
*MM*»,-.. <v*^ -■•>;-» ^v.Aff 
 
 
 280 
 
 CHAP. VII. 
 
 ALEXANDRIA. 
 
 enough is said to prove that every characteristic of the most 
 antient cemeteries of Oriental nations belonged to them ; 
 for they were suburban, and were situated in the midst of 
 gardens 1 . Enough remains also in the severe simplicity of 
 their structure, and in the few Egyptian symbols found 
 within them, to shew that they are of earlier antiquity than 
 the foundation of Alexandria by the Macedonians, even if we 
 had not the most decisive evidence to prove that the regal 
 sepulchres of the Alexandrian monarchs were within the city. 
 As repositories of the dead they were consequently places of 
 worship, whose dark and subterraneous caverns were aptly 
 ' . suited 
 
 (l) " And he was buried in his Sepulchre, in the Garden of Uzza," (Kings xxi. 26.) 
 In the same chapter, ver. 18. it is said of Manasseh, that " he slept with his fathers, 
 and was buried in the garden of his own house, in the Garden of Uzza :" that is to say, 
 in the garden of the sepulchre of his own house, or family ; the cemeteries of the 
 Jews exhibiting always a series of gardens, each of which belonged to some particular 
 family. Among the Heathens such gardens were places of religious worship. Thus in 
 Isaiah, (c. Ixv. 3.) " A people that provoketh me to anger continually to my face, 
 that sacrifccth in gardens." An illustration is hereby suggested of a remarkable 
 passage in Ezekiel, (c. xiii. 19, 20.) " And will ye pollute me among my people .... to 
 
 slay the souls that should not die Behold I am against your pillows, wherewith ye 
 
 there hunt the souls into gardens." The Garden to which our Saviour " oflimes 
 resorted with his Disciples" at the foot of the Mount of Olives, " over the Brook 
 Cedron" (John xviii. 1,2.) was in all probability a place for pious meditation, in the 
 midst of Tombs; for the antient Jewish sepulchres extend over all the base of the 
 mountain opposite to Jerusalem. Hither he retired to pray, the night before his 
 crucifixion. And when his body was buried, " as the manner of the Jews is to bury," 
 (John xix. 40, 41.) the sepulchre wherein they laid him was in " a Garden." The 
 same custom of adorning cemeteries with gardens, and resorting to them for meditation 
 and prayer, still exists among all the Eastern Jews, who write upon the tomb of a 
 deceased person, " Let his soul be in the garden of Eden 5" also among the Moslems 
 over all the Turkish Empire. It is said also of the Mexicans (See Purchas's Pilgrim, 
 p. 804. Land. 1514.) " The places where they buried them were their Gardens." 
 
CATACOMBS OF NECROPOLIS. 
 
 281 
 
 suited to the ideas entertained of Hades, the invisible abode cha p .vil 
 of departed spirits 2 . Of such a nature was the Serapeum of straptum of 
 Racotis, described as of much earlier antiquity than the 
 temple of the same name founded by one of the Ptolemies 3 . 
 Racotis was in ruins before the building of Alexandria 4 ; 
 and the Cryptce of Necropolis, from their situation, can be 
 attributed only to that antient city'. Having before shewn 
 that the worship of Serapis in Egypt was long anterior to the 
 introduction of an idol under that name by Ptolemy Soter 6 , as 
 related by Tacitus 7 , and also mentioned the authorities which 
 refer its origin to the death of the Patriarch Joseph 8 , it will 
 
 be 
 
 (2) K.a\ovfiev %c tov avrov tovtov tcai ^.dpawiv rov ditrj drfkovori. rrpoc or <j»](Tiv 
 dro) TToptvecrdai rdc ^i/^ac rwr fiiuardrruy, dlpiara kal SiKaidrara. " Quem nos alio 
 nomine Serapim vocamus, ut qui est diSrjs, sub aspectum minime cadens : ad quem 
 Plato sublimes ait evehi illorum animas, qui quam optime justissimeque vixerunt." Juli- 
 anus Imp. Orat. iv. p. 136. Fid. Jallonski Panth. ALgypt. torn. I. p. Ti"J . Franco/. 1/50. 
 
 (3) " Fuerat illic sacellum Serapidi atque Isidi antiquitus sacratum." Tacit. Hist, 
 lib. iv. c. 84. 
 
 (4) " Nam Racotis, quae postea nonnisi suburbium Alexandria fuit, diu ante urbem 
 hanc regiam ab Alexandra erectam, illic steterat. Vid. Jallonski Pantheon JEgypti- 
 orum, torn. I. p. 231. Franco/. 175O. Also the authors by him cited. Pausanias, 
 lib. v. p. 432. Strabo, lib. xvii. p. 545. Plinius, lib. v. c. 10. Clemens Alexandrinus, 
 Protreptico, p. 31. Stephanus Ethnicographus, in voce 'Pa>c«r?/c, &c. &c. 
 
 (5) Jablonski, &c. ubi supra. 
 
 (6) See Chap. V. p. 193, Note (5), of this volume. In addition to the evidence 
 there offered for the antiquity of the worship of Serapis in Egypt, may be also cited 
 the following powerful argument, as urged by Cuper in his Harpocrates, p. 83. 
 Utrecht, 1687- " Anti advectum ex Ponto Serapin, alius in iEgypto eodem nomine 
 deus colebatur. Pausanias, lib. i. scribit Athenienses Serapidis cultum a Ptolemaeo 
 accepisse, et templum ejus iwi^arinraTov esse Alexandrinis, dpyaiorarov H iv Mc/lujhi : 
 unde absque dubio sequitur, ante Pl'olem^um Lagi F. si is, ut plerique tradunt, 
 SLnopensem deum advehi curavit, Sarafin in ./Egyfto cultum fuisse." 
 
 (7) Tacit. Histor. lib. iv. cap. 84. 
 
 (S) See Chap. V. of this volume, as above cited. 
 
 VOL. III. 2 O 
 

 282 
 
 CHAP. VII. 
 
 Remarkable 
 Symbol. 
 
 ALEXANDRIA. 
 
 be proper briefly to notice the opinion of Jablonski, as to 
 this part of the Egyptian mythology; because a symbol 
 which we discovered, forming a central and conspicuous 
 ornament of the Catacombs, may seem to strengthen 
 his opinion, and thereby shew that here was the Sera- 
 peum of Racotis. He endeavours to prove, from various 
 authorities, but principally by a passage which he has cited 
 from the Saturnalia of Macrobius 1 , that Serapis was a type 
 of the infernal sun, that is to say, of the sun during its course 
 through the lower hemisphere, or winter signs of the Zodiac; 
 as Ammon was of the supernal, or path of the sun during the 
 summer months 2 . Hence the name of Hades, bestowed 
 upon Serapis by the Emperor Julian 3 , and the analogy 
 between this deity and the Pluto of the Greeks 4 . According 
 to Macrobius, the Egyptians were wont to represent the 
 sun, in their winged images of that luminary, with two 
 
 colours ; 
 
 (1) " Hoc argumentum YEgyptii lucidius absolvunt, ipsius solis simulacra pinnata 
 fingenteS; quibus color apud illos non unus est. Alterum enim caerulea specie, alteram 
 clara fingunt ; ex his clarum superum, et caeruleum inferum vocant. Inferi autem 
 nomen Soli datur, cum in infexiore hemisphaerio, id est hyematibus signis, cursum 
 suum peragit ; superi, cum partem Zodiaci ambit aestivam." Macrob. Saturial. 
 lib. i. c. 19. 
 
 (2) " Sol superus et clarus est Ammon. Sol caeruleus et inferus est, ut oihi 
 persuadeo, Serapis." Jablonsk. Panth. AEgypt. torn. I. p. 235. Franco/. 1750. 
 
 (3) See the observation of Julian upon Serapis, as before cited. See also Cyill. 
 Alexand. adversus Julian, p. 13. 
 
 (4) " Scriptores plerique, ubi ad Serapidem eorum deflectit oratio, eum fere senper 
 Plutonem interpretari solid fuerint." Jablonski, ubi supra, p. 236. See also the 
 authors by him cited. Diodorus, lib. i. p. 22. Clemens Alexandr. in Protrepdco, 
 passim. Eusebius, Prceparat. Evang. lib. iii. c. 11. p. 113. Porphyrius Julianus, lnp. 
 Oral. 4. p. 136. Cy rill. Alexandr. lib- \. in Julian, p. 13. Aristides, Oratione in Stra- 
 pim, passim. 
 
CATACOMBS OF NECROPOLIS. 
 
 colours 5 ; one being white, as typical of Amman or the 
 supernal sun; the other blue, to denote Serapis, or the sun's 
 descent into Hades during winter, when it received the 
 appellation of infernal 6 . It is a very curious circumstance, 
 that the distinctions of colour mentioned by Macrobius 
 may be noticed in all the mythological paintings of the 
 Tartars, the Chinese, and the people of Japan, where an 
 image of the sun is introduced ; but with this difference, 
 that the colours, instead of being white and blue, are white 
 and red 1 . The inhabitants of some parts of India, as it is 
 well known, who are worshippers of the Sun, revere the 
 invisible as well as the visible luminary ; the former of which 
 answers to the AIAH2 and AOPATOS of the Egyptians and 
 the Greeks 8 . This notion of Jablonski concerning Serapis 
 
 is 
 
 283 
 
 CHAP. VII. 
 
 (5) Vid. Macrob. Saturnal. ubi supra. 
 
 (0) Hence, perhaps, the very antient superstition of the blue colour of flame at the 
 approach of departed spirits, coming from Hades. One of the Witches in Macbeth 
 begins her incantation, " Blue spirits and white .'" &c. 
 
 (7) The reader may see such representations in the engravings made from the 
 sacred Pictures of the Calmuck tribes. {Part I. of these Travels, p. 244, second edit.) 
 In three of those pictures, this double representation of the Sun is introduced ; although 
 the plate has not been coloured, and the minutiae of the distinction were little attended 
 to by the engraver. In the original drawings, one orb is red, and the other white. The 
 author at first supposed they were intended for the Sun and Moon. 
 (8) Qpdfco rdv ndvriov virarov dedv e/ufxev id<o, 
 
 Xeifiari fxey r diSt]v, Aia S' e'lapoc dp\op.kvoio 
 
 'HiXiov $£ Bcpevg. — 
 
 Die Deorum omnium supremum esse Iao, 
 
 Quem liyeme orcum vocant, ineunte autem vere Jovem, 
 
 .^Estate porro Solem. 
 
 " Jam bene intelligitur, quam bene et recte auctor versuum allatorum affirmet, Solent 
 ab iEgyptiis, tempore hyberno vocari dtinv, eum, qui non videtur, quoniam nempe lux 
 
 ejus, 
 
284 
 
 ALEXANDRIA- 
 
 CHAP, vii. is by him opposed, to an opinion of the Fathers, which 
 maintained that Serapis was a symbol of Joseph : but even 
 admitting it to be true in its fullest extent, it will rather 
 serve to confirm that opinion, if attention be paid to the 
 titles which the Egyptians were accustomed to bestow upon 
 their deified princes. The language of the valuable Inscrip- 
 tion on the Rosetta Tablet will set this truth in a very clear 
 point of view : we there find the deceased sovereign men- 
 tioned as being 1 , " like the great Vulcan." He is said 
 
 tO be EVEN AS THE SUN, THE GREAT KING OF THE UPPER 
 
 and lower regions 2 , and his successor is called Son of 
 the Sun 3 . If therefore the Sun in Hades, according to the 
 most antient mythology of Egypt, was called Serapis, 
 Joseph having descended thither, and being " even as the 
 Sun," according to a style of deification which was inva- 
 riable in Egypt, where the customs of the country were 
 almost as unalterable as its climate, would receive the 
 appellation of Serapis, after the same manner in which the 
 
 name 
 
 ejus, illo anni tempore, sub terram demersa est. Eundem Pseudo-Callisthenes 
 dixit doparov tov lipuriov, invisibilem in Sinopio. Eustathius vero, eodem loco 
 allatus, testatur Serapim in Sinopio Memphi coli." Jablonsk. Panth. jEgypt. torn. I. 
 pp. 236, 238. Franco/. 1750. 
 
 (1) Ka6aVf|0 6 "H^atorroc o [ityas. 
 
 (2) Kaddrrip 6 ''H\ioc [Acyas j3ct(rt\iv<; to>v ti avo teal tuv rt KCtrot vupuv. The 
 word y^wpuv, in this Inscription, has been usually translated districts, with reference to 
 the division of Egypt into upper and lower ; but this division is of modern date ; and 
 the Sun would hardly be styled " King of Upper and Lower Egypt." The expression 
 seems to be metaphorical, and rather applicable to the antient notions concerning Sol 
 Superus and Sol Inferus ; as mentioned by Macrobius. 
 
 {3) Xiov tov 'HXiov. 
 
CATACOMBS OF NECROPOLIS. 
 
 name of Vulcan, father of the Sim\ was, so many ages 
 after, applied to Ptolemy, by the priests of Egypt. 
 
 We will detain the Reader no longer with such observa- 
 tions ; but proceed to a survey of the surprising repositories 
 that have given rise to them, and which received among the 
 Antients the appropriate appellation of the " City of the 
 Dead." Nothing so marvellous ever fell within our obser- 
 vation ; but in Upper Egypt, perhaps, works of a similar 
 nature may have been found. The Cryptce of Jerusalem, 
 Tortosa, Jebilee, Laodicea, and Telmessus 3 , are excavations 
 of the same kind, but far less extensive. They enable us, 
 however, to trace the connection which antiently existed in 
 the sepulchral customs of all the nations bordering the 
 eastern coast of the Mediterranean ; from the shores of 
 Carthage and of Cyrene, to Egypt, to Palaestine, to Phoenicia, 
 and to Asia Minor. An inclination common to man, in every 
 period of his history, but particularly in the patriarchal ages, 
 of being finally " gathered unto his fathers," may explain 
 the prodigious labour bestowed in the construction of these 
 primeval sepulchres. Wheresoever the roving Phoenicians 
 extended their colonies, whether to the remotest parts of 
 Africa, or of Europe, even to the most distant islands of 
 their descendants the Celtae in the Northern Ocean, the 
 
 same 
 
 285 
 
 CHAP.VI. 
 
 Descent into 
 the Cryptce. 
 
 (4) See Note (l). 
 
 (5) See Chap. XVI. of the former Section of Part II. of these Travels, p. 549, & c. 
 also the observations in Note (4), p. 550, as to the situation of such sepulchres. 
 

 286 
 
 ALEXANDRIA. 
 
 chap, vii. same rigid and religious adherence to this early practice may 
 yet be noticed 1 . 
 
 The Alexandrian guides to the Catacombs will not be 
 persuaded to enter them without using the precaution of a 
 clue of thread, in order to secure their retreat. We were 
 therefore provided with a ball of twine to answer this 
 purpose ; and also with a quantity of wax tapers, to light 
 us in our passage through these dark chambers. They are 
 situated about half a league along the shore, to the westward 
 of the present city. The whole coast exhibits the remains 
 of other sepulchres, that have been violated, and are now in 
 ruins. The name of Cleopatra s Bath has been given to an 
 artificial reservoir, into which the sea has now access ; but 
 for what reason it has been so called, cannot be ascertained : 
 it is a bason hewn out of the rock ; and if it ever was intended 
 for a bath, it was, in all probability, a place where they washed 
 the bodies of the dead before they were embalmed. Shaw 
 maintained that the Cryptce of Necropolis were not intended 
 for the reception of mummies, or embalmed bodies 2 ; in which 
 
 he 
 
 (1) Among the Wild Irish, every avocation yields to the paramount duty of conveying 
 a corpse to its destination, whatsoever may be the distance of the place designed for 
 its interment. When the bearers arrive with a coffin, which, in order to fulfil the 
 wishes of the deceased, is to be carried to some distant part of the country, they deposit 
 it in the middle of the first village or town at which they rest, whence it is immediately 
 forwarded by others who become its voluntary supporters. 
 
 (2) " The Cryptce, &c. were not intended for the reception of mummies or embalmed 
 bodies." Shaw's Travels, p. 293. Lond. 1757- 
 
////// YW//i/ 
 
 & '/< j "'^/^; ^ ^-M^A^muA s/rs r '/Y/vvy,'//^//,', 
 
 Scale of '£ '//////.r// JTuv&r. 
 
 Jbmi 
 
 S,,/i Jfc>, .<:/■„■/<,! 
 
 mm 
 
 m 
 
: 
 
CATACOMBS OF NECROPOLIS. 
 
 he is decidedly contradicted by the text of Strabo 5 . Perhaps 
 he was one of those who had been induced to adopt 
 an erroneous opinion that mummies were placed upright 
 upon their feet in Egyptian sepulchres, and therefore was 
 at a loss to reconcile the horizontal position of the Theccs 
 with his preconceived notions. We shall presently have 
 very satisfactory evidence as to the manner in which em- 
 balmed bodies were laid, when deposited within these tombs 
 by the inhabitants of Egypt, before the foundation of Alex- 
 andria. The original entrance to them is now closed, and 
 it is externally concealed from observation. The only place 
 whereby admittance to the interior is practicable, may be 
 found facing the sea, near an angle towards the north : 
 it is a small aperture, made through the soft and sandy 
 rock, either by burrowing animals, or by men for the 
 purpose of ransacking the cemetery. This aperture is barely 
 large enough to admit a person upon his hands and knees 4 . 
 Here it is not unusual to encounter jackals, escaping from 
 the interior, when alarmed by any person approaching : 
 on this account the guides recommend the practice of 
 discharging a gun, or pistol, to prevent any sally of this 
 kind. Having passed this aperture with lighted tapers, we 
 arrived, by a gradual descent, in a square chamber, almost 
 filled with earth : to the right and left of this are smaller 
 apartments, chiseled in the rock : each of these contains 
 
 on 
 
 287 
 
 CHAP. VII. 
 
 (3) Kai Karayuyal, 7rpog rac rapi^e'ias tuv veKpuv CTrtTtjSeiai. Strahon. Geogr. 
 lib. xvii. p. 1128. Oxon. 1807. 
 
 (4) See the aperture marked A, in the Plan of the Catacombs. 
 
-&5&&S ^^3^^Z^^£S$^ 
 
 
 290 
 
 CHAP. VII. 
 
 CATACOMBS OF NECROPOLIS. 
 
 excessive. The cryptce upon the south-west side corre- 
 sponded with those which we have described towards the 
 north-east. In the middle between the two, a long range 
 of chambers extended from the central and circular shrine, 
 towards the north-west ; and in this direction appears to 
 have been the principal and original entrance. Proceeding 
 towards it, we came to a large room in the middle of the 
 fabric, between the supposed Serapeum and the main 
 outlet, or portal, towards the sea. Here the workmanship 
 was very elaborate ; and to the right and left were chambers, 
 with receptacles ranged parallel to each other. Farther on, 
 in the same direction, is a passage with galleries and spacious 
 apartments on either side; perhaps the KATAHirAi mentioned 
 by Strabo for embalming the dead; or the chambers 
 belonging to the priests, who constantly officiated in the 
 Serapeum. In the front is a kind of vestibulum, or porch ; 
 but it is exceedingly difficult to ascertain precisely the 
 nature of the excavation towards the main entrance, from the 
 manner in which it is now choked with earth and rubbish. 
 If this part were laid open, it is possible that something 
 further would be known as to the design of the undertaking; 
 and, at all events, one of the most curious of the antiquities 
 of Egypt would then be exposed to the investigation it 
 merits. Having passed about six hours in exploring, to the 
 best of our ability, these gloomy mansions, we regained, by 
 means of our clue, the aperture by which we had entered, 
 and quitted them for ever. 
 
 We have now concluded almost all that relates to our 
 residence in Alexandria, and to our observations in Egypt. 
 
 A journey 
 
ALEXANDRIA. 
 
 291 
 
 A journey to the Oasis would have been a desirable com- chap, vh. 
 pletion of the African part of our travels; but our friend Mr. 
 Hammer, in whose company we hoped to have made it, 
 had left the country ; and neither our health nor the dispo- 
 sition of the Arabs were favourable to the undertaking. 
 We forbear from noticing many interesting objects of 
 curiosity in Alexandria, particularly its prodigious cisterns, 
 which are coeval with the city, because they have so often 
 been described. The difficulty of " knowing when to have 
 done," is perhaps never more sensibly felt, than in a 
 territory so fertile of resources as that we are now leaving. 
 The time is perhaps not distant, when Alexandria alone, a 
 city once so vain of its great reputation and the rank it held 
 among the Pagan states> shall again become the resort, if 
 not the resting-place, of learned men, who will dedicate 
 their time and their talents to a better investigation of its 
 interesting antiquities 1 . So little are we acquainted with its 
 valuable remains, that not a single excavation for purposes 
 of discovery has yet been begun ; nor is there any thing 
 published with regard to its modern history, excepting the 
 observations that have resulted from the hasty survey made 
 of its forlorn and desolated havens, by a few travellers 
 whose transitory visits ended almost with the days of their 
 arrival 2 . Scarcely had we felt the importance of more 
 
 accurate 
 
 (1) A local work of this kind, restricted entirely to the Antiquities of Alexandria, 
 might complete one of the most splendid and valuable publications which have yet been 
 added to the archives of taste and of literature. 
 
 (2) A very curious instance is afforded by Bruce., who wrote an account of Alex- 
 andria, and, literally, did not spend one entire day in the city. He was at sea on the 
 
 morning 
 
29 c i 
 
 CHAP. VII. 
 
 ALEXANDRIA. 
 
 accurate and careful inquiry, than, like our predecessors, 
 we also prepared for our departure. A long track lay 
 before us ; and in order to do something everywhere, it was 
 necessary to rest nowhere. A few days before the French 
 garrison was allowed to march out with the honours of 
 war, we set out upon a visit to the Capudan Pasha, who 
 was encamped, with the Turkish troops, in the rear of the 
 British army. He had promised us a passage, on board a 
 Turkish frigate, to any part of the Archipelago ; and we 
 hastened to receive a letter from him to the Captain, pre- 
 viously to the vessel's sailing for Constantinople. As soon 
 as we reached the Pasha's tent, he asked after the author's 
 brother, Captain Clarke, and desired to see him. Being told 
 that he had sailed with a part of the French army to 
 Marseilles, he solicited that we would oblige him by 
 conveying a verbal message to Sir Richard Bickerton, then 
 in the old port of Alexandria. This message contained 
 nothing less than a request that the Turkish fleet might 
 have permission to enter that port before the surrender of 
 the city to the English army. We had consequently to 
 return back to Alexandria, and give up our own business for 
 the present. 
 
 Arriving on board Sir Richard's ship, we delivered our 
 message, and were invited into his cabin to dinner ; but 
 being desirous of carrying back his answer that evening, 
 we declined his kind offer. He had before positively 
 
 refused 
 
 morning of the twentieth of June 17&8., previously to his landing at Alexandria ; (Sec 
 Bruce's Travels, vol. I. p. 7 . Edin. 1790.) and in the afternoon he left that city for 
 Rosetta. 
 
ALEXANDRIA. 
 
 293 
 
 refused the same request from the Pasha : its renewal chap, vii. 
 was therefore troublesome, and even impertinent; for it conduct of 
 
 the Capudan 
 
 was well known to Sir Richard, and to Lord Keith, that Pasha - 
 it had no other design for its basis than the payment of the 
 Turkish Galeongies by the plunder of the city. The Capudan 
 Pasha was a person upon whom no reliance could be placed, 
 although he had not then manifested all the atrocity of his 
 character by the murder of the Beys ' : however, he received 
 
 us » 
 
 (l) This happened soon after our departure. The circumstances are thus detailed 
 by Colonel Squire, who was an eye-witness of the transaction, in a Litter to his 
 Brother, the Rev. E. Squire, dated Alexandria, October 31, 1801. None of the real 
 or supposed massacres of Buonaparte can be said to have equalled this in treachery or 
 atrocity. 
 
 " We are now engaged in a sort of warfare with the Turks. Before this arrives, 
 you will have heard the cause : but as you may wish to have an accurate account of 
 this horrible affair, I shall detail to you the principal circumstances. The Capudan 
 Pasha, whose encampment was in the rear of the English, wrote to some of the Beys 
 at Cairo, requesting them to honour him with a visit. They accepted hi- invitation, 
 although they had been frequently admonished by Sir J. {now Lord) Hutchinson, not 
 to engage in too great an intimacy with the Turk';. Tliey were escorted fiom Rosetta 
 to the camp off Alexandria by an English guard, and they remained with the Pasha 
 under our immediate protection. Two days previous to their intended reUrn :o Cairo, 
 the Pasha proposed an excursion to Alexandria. During their visit, the Turk had 
 loaded them with every pretended proof of civility and kindness. The ver/ day on 
 which this dastardly assassin perpetrated his black design, he swore by h:s heard, in 
 presence of the Beys who were breakfasting at his table, and by the holy Koran which 
 was before him, that he was their firm friend and supporter. When the eir.erainment 
 was nearly concluded, an attendant came into the Pasha's tent, to inform his Highness 
 that a sufficient number of horses and trappings could not be procured for the whole 
 of the retinue. The Pasha, hearing this, pretended to be highly incensed at the mes- 
 senger — " However," said he, " Gentlemen, we will not be disappointed in our excursion ; 
 my boats are in the lake, close to the camp, and we may proceed to Alexandria by 
 water, where your 'Mamalukes, and my attendants, may meet us in the city." The 
 cunning of this is evident': he separates the Beys from their body-guard, that there 
 may be no prospect of an effectual resistance. The poor unsuspecting Beys embarked 
 ivith the Pasha, and, attended by four or five boats, steered towards the inundation. 
 
 Scarcely 
 

 
 294 
 
 CHAP. VII. 
 
 ALEXANDRIA. 
 
 us with great politeness, but returned this brief and pithy 
 answer; that " the first Turkish ship which presumed to enter, 
 
 before 
 
 Scarcely had they advanced a quarter of a mile from the shore, when a boat arrived, 
 with a messenger who pretended to have a particular despatch for the Pasha from Con- 
 stantinople. The Turk, immediately opening the letter, apologized to the Beys , 
 saying that he was obliged to answer the despatch, but that he would afterwards 
 follow them to Alexandria. In this manner he left the Beys, and returned in the 
 small boat to the camp ; by this artifice avoiding the exposure of his own person in 
 the scuffle that was to ensue. Shortly after his departure, the boats alter their course, 
 and steer for Aboukir Bay, with an intention of putting the Beys on board the Sultan 
 Selim, there at anchorage. The Beys now perceived the whole design of this dark 
 plot. They first remonstrated ; then resisted ; and, exclaiming they were betrayed, a 
 discharge of musquetry was poured upon them from two or three of the boats. Endea- 
 vouring to defend themselves, they were attacked by the crew of the Pasha's boat with 
 swords. Notwithstanding all this, they fought manfully with their poignards. Osman 
 Bey Tombourgee, successor to Mourad Bey, received seventeen wounds. The 
 event of this affair was, that of seven Beys, and a Cashef, or Prime Minister, two were 
 killed with the Cashef, one was most cruelly wounded, and two were drowned. Two 
 only remain, who were made prisoners by the hired assassins of the Pasha. The whole 
 of this transaction being reported to Sir J. {now Lord) Hutchinson, he immediately 
 waited upon the Pasha at the head of his troops, and, after calling him, to his face, liar, 
 coward, villain, assassin, and using every menace and other opprobrious expression 
 until the mean traitor burst into tears, he demanded the bodies of the Beys ; of those 
 who were dead, as well as of the living. Thus intimidated by the spirited behaviour 
 of the English General, the Pasha delivered up the three dead bodies, together with the 
 persons of the living. The three bodies were interred with military honours within the 
 city. Thus the English have taken a very decided part in favour of the Mamalukes, 
 and God knows what will be the event. We are in complete possession of Alexandria : 
 no armed Turk is permitted to enter the town. The same sort of scene has been 
 attempted at Cairo. The Vizier pretended to invite the Beys, and to present them 
 with pelisses : they have all been seized, although I have not yet heard that any violence 
 has been offered to their persons. Sir J. Hutchinson has threatened, it is said, to march 
 an army against the Vizier, if he do not immediately release the Beys from their 
 confinement. Whatever may have been the policy of England, our General has 
 conducted himself with honour and propriety. He could not have remained 
 an inactive spectator of such base transactions. The Beys were under his immediate 
 protection ; therefore, by the common laws of hospitality, he was bound to declare 
 himself their guardian. His own honour, and that of his country, were pledged for their 
 safety. I saw this infamous transaction from our camp. I was witness to the 
 
 firincr 
 
ALEXANDRIA. 
 
 before the city was surrendered, would instantly be sunk." It 
 was towards sun-set when the author reached once more the 
 magnificent Turkish pavilion of audience, stationed on the 
 borders of the Lake of Aboukir, near to the place where the 
 sluices were cut through the Canal of Alexandria, for inun- 
 dating the old bed of the Lake Mareotis. The Pasha was out on 
 horseback ; and the officers of the pavilion, drawn up in two 
 lines, from the entrance of the tent to the rich cushions placed 
 for the Pasha at the upper extremity, were amusing them- 
 selves with the tricks of a fool kept by the Pasha, who was 
 mimicking the state ceremonies of his master when giving 
 audience ; consequently, one of his frolics was to receive the 
 author as if the Pasha had been present. This unusual face- 
 tiousness on the part of the Turks was soon put to flight by 
 the arrival of the great man himself, with his Interpreter ; 
 who no sooner heard the answer to his message, than, acting 
 with much less dignity than his buffoon, he spat on the 
 ground 1 , stamped, and, abruptly quitting the tent, hurried 
 on board a covered boat upon the lake, in which he was 
 accustomed to pass the night, and made his appearance no 
 more on that evening. All hopes of a passage on board the 
 
 frigate 
 
 2.95 
 
 CHAP. VII. 
 
 firing of the musquetry ; but not suspecting what was passing, I did not take particular 
 notice of the circumstance." Colonel Squire s MS. Correspondence. 
 
 (l) The malediction of the Turks, as of other Oriental nations, is frequently ex- 
 pressed in no other way than by spitting on the ground, of which an instance will be 
 related in the next Chapter. May not this explain the reason why our Saviour, (who 
 taught to " bless, and curse not," and who, in the annihilation of Heathen superstitions, 
 frequently made the outward sign subservient to opposite purposes of grace and 
 benevolence) when he healed the blind and the deaf, is said to have " spat on the 
 ground." See John ix. 6. Mark vii. 33. and viii. 23. See also a Note in Chap. IX. 
 Part I. of these Travels, where allusion is made to this custom, as practised at a 
 Russian Christening. 
 
» 
 
 296 
 
 CHAP. VII. 
 
 ALEXANDRIA. 
 
 frigate seemed therefore for a moment at an end. But 
 Isaac Bey, the Capudan Pasha's interpreter and secretary, 
 conducted the author to his own tent, and, pleading a sudden 
 indisposition on the part of his master, promised to accom- 
 modate matters ; begging, at the same time, that his behaviour 
 might not be noticed at head- quarters, and desiring that we 
 would come again upon the sixteenth. 
 
 A curious adventure befel us upon our return for the 
 second time this evening, Monday, September the fourteenth, 
 into Alexandria. The English sentinels had advanced from 
 their former stations, close to the gates of the garrison, the 
 first division of the French army having this day embarked at 
 Aboukir. The ivord for the night, as given by the French 
 General for passing the gates, was " Qitoyen." As the author 
 rode up to the Rosetta Gate, hearing a distant challenge 
 somewhat indistinctly, and supposing he had passed all the 
 English sentinels, he gave the French word as he had been 
 instructed to do. Presently drawing nearer, he was able to 
 discern a soldier levelling his musket at his breast, exclaiming 
 at the same time, with a broad Scotch dialect, " Whds that 
 says Citoycn f — gee the richt word, or you re a deed inonT — 
 Had this happened during the negotiation for the surrender 
 of the city, the honest Highlander would not perhaps have 
 acted with so much forbearance; but the French and the 
 English sentinels were then standing close to each other, 
 and it was probably nothing more than a vaunt of his 
 patriotism in the presence of his enemy. Some difficulty 
 too occurred at the inner gates, which had never before 
 happened ; the sentinels there refusing to lower the draw- 
 bridge without a written order from Menou. We offered 
 
 to 
 
ALEXANDRIA. 
 
 to shew our passport, signed by General Tcnc, but must have 
 passed the night upon the sands, if one of our party had not 
 resorted to a stratagem, and pretended being the bearer of 
 despatches to the French Commander-in-chief. We were 
 then allowed to enter ; and being conducted by a sentinel 
 to head-quarters, were permitted, after explaining what had 
 happened, to return to our lodgings. 
 
 The fifteenth was passed chiefly in taking leave of our 
 friends, and in preparations for our voyage in Greece. We 
 obtained permission, through the kindness of Signor Fontossi, 
 from whom we received many civilities, to trace with a 
 pencil a beautiful plan of the Catacombs of Necropolis, 
 which had been finished by one of the chief engineers 
 belonging to the French Institute'. A poor Negro girl, who 
 had been sold as a slave 2 to some Frenchman, endeavoured 
 this day to throw herself from a very high window ; but 
 being alarmed in the attempt, by the depth below her, 
 held by her hands, and remained suspended in that situation 
 until her cries brought some persons to her assistance. 
 
 297 
 
 C'rAP. VII. 
 
 (1) It is the same from which the Rev. G. Wilkins completed the drawing of 
 those Catacombs that has been engraved tor this woik. 
 
 (2) The officers of the French army purchased a number of these slaves. The 
 Negro women were particularly in request among them, and many were conveyed to 
 France. The cause of this singular taste has been explained by one of their own 
 Savuns, in the Appendix to Peltier's Edition of Denon's Travels. 
 
 VOL. III. 
 
 2 Q 
 
 CHAP. 
 

 CHAP. VIII. 
 
 CHAP. VIII. 
 
 ALEXANDRIA TO COS. 
 
 Preparations for leaving Egypt — Journey to Aboukir — Cities of Nico- 
 polis, Taposiris Parva, and Canopus — Uncertainty of their topo- 
 graphy — Thohis — Changes which have taken place upon the coast— 
 Heraclium — Aboukir Bay — 7 urkish Frigate — Persons composing 
 her Creiv — Discipline at Sea — Bay ofFiniva — Meteoric Phenomena 
 — Eastern coast of Rhodes — Lindus — Southern shores of Asia 
 Minor — Bay of Marmora — Rhodes — Cos — Town of Stanchio — 
 Situation of the French Consul — Antient sculpture — Inscriptions — 
 Asclepi^um — Votive offerings — Singular article of the Mahometan 
 Law — Population, commerce, and produce of Cos. 
 
 In the morning of September the sixteenth, we left Alex- 
 andria ; taking back our horses, &c. to the British camp. 
 A Chiaotix, or constable of the Turkish army, rode with us 
 from the gates. This man expressed great indignation that 
 the French were permitted to capitulate for the surrender of 
 
 the 
 
ALEXANDRIA TO COS 
 
 the place : he said it was very evident that the Djoiurs 
 (Infidels) were all acting in concert with each other, and that 
 their apparent enmity was a mere device to deceive the 
 Turks. Being asked what the Turks would have done, if 
 the whole management had been left to them, he answered, 
 " We should have cut off all their heads, to be conveyed to the 
 Grand Signior ; or have stripped them naked, and turned 
 them into the Desert" In our way through the British 
 camp, we called upon Lord Hutchinson, and endeavoured 
 to express our gratitude for the unceasing patronage be- 
 stowed by him, from the moment of our first arrival in 
 Egypt, in the midst of his other important avocations ; and we 
 hope that this now disinterested memorial may shew that 
 his kindness has not been forgotten. We then visited a few 
 other friends, who were rejoicing in the prospect of a speedy 
 termination to one of the severest campaigns which British 
 soldiers are likely to encounter — a termination, too, that 
 covered them with glory. The number of the enemy 
 expelled by our army from Egypt, after all the losses he had 
 sustained, was greater than the aggregate of the English 
 combined forces when they were first landed at Aboukir 1 . 
 It was a contest against veteran troops, under every circum- 
 stance of privation ; a species of warfare to which our 
 soldiers were unaccustomed ; carried on against men, who 
 
 were 
 
 (1) " When we landed, the effective force of our army did not exceed 15,000 men. 
 The French, an enemy well established in a country full of resources, embarked from 
 Cairo 13,000; from Alexandria (miralnle dictu !) 10,000. We must perhaps deduct 
 5000, for the civil tribe and the merchants, who followed the army : there will then 
 remain 18,000 for their effective force." Colonel Squire 's MS. Correspondence. Letter 
 dated Alexandria, Oct. 5, 1801. 
 

 300 
 
 CHAP. VIII. 
 
 Journey to 
 Aboukir. 
 
 ALEXANDRIA TO COS. 
 
 were in full possession of the territory, were inured to 
 the unhealthiness of the climate, and had all the advantages 
 of position. Succeeding generations may indeed exult in 
 the triumph thus obtained for our country; for, so long as 
 the annals of our Empire shall remain, it shall be said, that 
 " lance to lance, and horse to horse," the legions of France, 
 who had boasted themselves to be invincible, fled, or fell, 
 before the youth of Britain. 
 
 From the British, we went to the Turkish camp ; and 
 again had an audience of the Capudan Pasha. He had reco- 
 vered his composure ; and he gave us three letters : one to 
 the Captain of his own ship, the Sultan Selim; a second to 
 the Captain of the frigate in which we were to sail; and a 
 third to the Governor of Rhodes, containing, as he said, an 
 order for boats to take us either to Stanchio, or to Scio. 
 Thus provided, we continued our journey to Aboukir, along 
 the sandy neck of land which stretches, in the shape of a 
 ribbon, from the place where our army landed, entirely to 
 Alexandria; having the Lake of Aboukir upon our right, 
 and the sea upon our left. The whole of this tract is a 
 desert, interspersed here and there with a few plantations 
 of palm-trees. The dates hung from these trees in such 
 large and tempting clusters, although not quite ripe, that we 
 climbed to the tops of some of them, and carried away with 
 us large branches', with their fruit. In this manner dates 
 are sometimes sent, with the branches, as presents to Con- 
 stantinople. A ripe Egyptian date, although a delicious fruit, 
 
 is 
 
 (1) The leaves of these trees, when grown to a size for bearing fruit, are six or eight 
 feet long ; and may be termed branches, for the trees have no other. 
 
ALEXANDRIA TO COS. 
 
 301 
 
 is never refreshing to the palate. It suits the Turks, who 
 are fond of sweetmeats of all kinds ; and its flavour is not 
 unlike that of the conserved green citron which is brought 
 from Madeira. The largest plantation occurred about half- 
 way between Alexandria and Aboukir, whence our army 
 marched to attack the French on the thirteenth of March : 
 the trees here were very lofty, and, from the singular 
 formation of their bark, we found it as easy to ascend 
 to the tops of these trees as to climb the steps of a ladder. 
 Wherever the date-tree is found in these dreary deserts, it not 
 only presents a supply of salutary food, for men and camels 2 , 
 but Nature has so wonderfully contrived the plant, that its 
 first offering is accessible to man alone ; and the mere cir- 
 cumstance of its presence, in all seasons of the year, is 
 a never-failing indication of fresh water near its roots. 
 Botanists describe the trunk of the date-tree as full of rugged 
 knots 3 ; but the fact is, that it is full of cavities, the vestiges 
 of its decayed leaves, which have within them an horizontal 
 surface, flat and even, exactly adapted to the reception of 
 the human feet and hands ; and it is impossible to view 
 them without believing that he, who in the 4 beginning 
 fashioned " every tree, in the which is the fruit of a 
 tree yielding seed" as " meat for man," has here mani- 
 fested one among the innumerable proofs of his bene- 
 ficent design. The extensive importance of the date-tree is 
 one of the most curious subjects to which a traveller 
 
 can 
 
 CHAP. VIII." 
 
 (2) The Arabs feed their camels with the date-stones, after grinding them in their 
 hand-mills. 
 
 (3) See Phvenix dactylifera. Martyn's Edit, of Miller's Diet. Lond. I8O7. 
 
 (4) Gen. i. 29. 
 

 302 ALEXANDRIA TO COS. 
 
 chap, viii can direct his attention. A considerable part of the 
 inhabitants of Egypt, of Arabia, and Persia, subsist almost 
 entirely upon its fruit. They boast also of its medicinal 
 virtues. Their camels feed upon the date-stones. From 
 the leaves they make couches, baskets, bags, mats, and 
 brushes ; from the branches, cages for their poultry, and 
 fences for their gardens ; from the fibres of the boughs, 
 thread, ropes, and rigging; from the sap is prepared a 
 spirituous liquor; and the body of the tree furnishes fuel: 
 it is even said that from one variety of the palm-tree, the 
 Phoenix farinifera, meal has been extracted, which is found 
 among the fibres of the trunk, and has been used for food 1 . 
 We cut off* a few dyerids*, and sent them to serve as walking- 
 sticks for some friends in England, as memorials of the 
 heroism displayed by our troops upon the sands where they 
 grew. Beneath these trees, we found some of the smaller 
 cannon-shot used by the French, when driven by our troops 
 along this sandy district. Nothing can exceed the dreary nature 
 of all the prospect between Alexandria and Aboukir, if we 
 except these plantations : yet in this narrow maritime tract 3 , 
 
 the 
 
 (1) See Roxburgh's Plants of Coromandel, as published by the East- India Company, 
 under the direction of Sir Joseph Banks. Lond. 1 79$ ■ 
 
 (2) The name given by the Turks and Arabs to the midrib, or longitudinal stem of 
 the leaf of the palm-tree. Hence the name of Djerid, given to the equestrian sport 
 wherein short staves are thrown by the combatants: these were originally Djerids ; 
 but this name is now common to all short sticks used as darts in that game. 
 
 (3) The shape of it may be compared to that of a band, or girdle; and it is worthy 
 of remark, that Strabo, speaking of the district between the sea and the Canopican 
 Canal, uses the expression artvtj tkj raivia : whether with reference to the territory 
 between Alexandria and Aboukir, or not, others may determine. 
 
ALEXANDRIA TO COS. 
 
 303 
 
 the whole of which may be comprehended in one bird's-eye , ™ xp - VIIJ - 
 view 4 , were situated the cities of Nicopolis, Taposiris Parva, ° f the Ci ^s 
 
 ' ■* . ' of Nicopolis, 
 
 and Canopus, mentioned by Strabo\ A person actually J^j r " and 
 surveying the country, considers the fact as scarcely ere- Can °p» s - 
 dible ; for where, in this confined and desert space, could 
 those cities have been placed? Notwithstanding the very 
 general observation to which the whole district has been 
 recently exposed, nothing is less decided than the locality 
 of any one of those places. Until lately, we had not 
 the smallest idea of the geography of this part of Egypt 8 ; 
 and even now, when we are become acquainted with 
 it, it exhibits only a long ridge of sand, extending east 
 and west, for about a dozen or fifteen miles, which 
 seems liable, at every instant, to be washed into the 
 sea 7 . If, as some have supposed 8 , Aboukir denote the site 
 of Canopus, the ruins engraved by Denon 9 under that name 
 
 may 
 
 (4) See the Vignette to this Chapter. 
 
 (5) Mfra St rrjv Sioipvyd rr\v iwi ^.ytliav dyovaav, 6 ££>/<; «r» tov Kdvaflov nXotit 
 icrri 7rapdXt)\vi; rr\ napaXio:, ttj diro *bdpov f-i\pt- tov Kavo>j3tKov OTop.a.TO<;' artyij 
 ydp tis Taivia /xtra^v SiijKtt tov rt mXdyovs teal tjj? Siupvyos, iv ?} etrrlv if Tt 
 fAtKpd Tanooipn;, /u.trd rtjv NtKoVoXti/ /cat to ZttyvptoV dxpa vd'ioKov t-^ovaa 
 1 Apcrivotjs ' A<f>poS iTtjt;' to St rraXaidv, Kal Qwviv Tiva woXiv tvravdd <j>ao~iW k.t.X. 
 " Post fossam, quae Schediam et Canopum ducit, est navigatio secundum maritimam 
 oram ei, quae a Pharo usque ad Canopicum ostium perducit, aequalibus semper spatiis 
 opposita : angnsta enim quaedam fascia inter pelagus et fossam extenditur, in qua est 
 Parva Taposiris, post Nicopolim ac Zephyrium, et promontorium ac Veneris Arsinoes 
 sacellum habet. Hoc in loco dicunt olim urbem Thonhn fuisse, &c." Strabon. Geog. 
 lib.x\Y\. p. 1135. Oxon. 1807. 
 
 (6; See any of the Maps of Egypt previous to the landing of the English army in 1801. 
 
 (7) See the " Survey of the country between Aboukir and Alexandria," Map facing 
 p. 272 of the last Section. 
 
 (8) See the Notes to the Oxford edit, of Strabo, p. 1135, note 31. 
 
 (9) See PI. 8. Fig. 2. torn. II. of the large Paris edition. 
 
 

 304 
 
 CHAP. VITI. 
 
 ALEXANDRIA TO COS. 
 
 may have belonged to Parva Taposiris ' ; or to the antient 
 fane, alluded to by Strabo 3 , at the Zephyrium promontory, 
 where Thorns formerly stood. But, if this be true, where 
 are the vestiges of the channel in which the annual devotees 
 # performed their voyage from Alexandria to Canopus 3 ? It is 
 evident this could not have been the Alexandrian Canal, if 
 Aboukir stood on the site of Canopus ; for this Canal has no 
 connection with Aboukir. Was it then a Canal which, 
 traversing the bed of the new Lake, now called that of 
 Aboukir, communicated with the Alexandrian > All this is very 
 uncertain. Neither the observations made during the time our 
 troops were in Egypt, nor by the French who preceded them, 
 have in any degree elucidated this very difficult part of the 
 antient geography of Egypt. The country itself seems to have 
 been subjected to the most mighty revolutions, from the 
 convulsions of Nature. The present state of Nelson's Island, 
 and of the antiquities found upon it, prove that a very con- 
 siderable part has been swallowed by the waves. The Lake 
 of Aboukir, or Said, now a very considerable inlet of the sea, 
 
 is 
 
 (1) They were thus alluded to by Colonel Squire. " Three leagues eastward of 
 Alexandria, immediately on the sea-shore, are the ruins of very superb and extensi e 
 buildings. It is imagined these formed part of the city of Taposiris parva. Here 
 are also cut out of the solid rock a number of places which have the appearance of 
 baths. Not far from this spot, at a short distance in the sea, may be seen the fragments 
 of several pieces of antient sculpture, granite and marble Sphinxes, a colossal fluted 
 statue with the head of a dog, an immense granite Jist, and other reliques, plainly 
 indicating the site of a temple." Colonel Squire's MS. Letters. 
 
 (2) See Strabo, uli supra. 
 
 (3) Strabon. Geog. lib.xvii. p. 1136. Oxon. 180/. 
 
ALEXANDRIA TO COS. 
 
 305 
 
 is the result of an inundation which happened within the chap. vm. 
 last thirty years. How is it possible, therefore, to settle the 
 topography of places whose remains are, perhaps, at this 
 time, under water? The changes which the coast has 
 undergone will render it no very easy task; and certainly it 
 has not yet been determined. Whenever we undertook the 
 inquiry, our investigation proved fruitless; and it is therefore 
 better to state our uncertainty, than to aim at illustration, 
 when there is so little chance of precision. Perhaps the 
 difficulty may have been increased by considering Aboukir as 
 the antient Canopus 4 . Misled by this prejudice, the traveller 
 is withdrawn from the line of observation marked out by 
 Strabo. His route from Alexandria to Canopus, instead of 
 being in the direction of Aboukir, may possibly have been 
 along the course of the Alexandrian Canal: and if this be the 
 AlftPYH on which the Canopican festivities were annually 
 celebrated 5 , we must look for Canopus, and also for Hera- 
 clium 6 , rather in the«direction of Utko and of Rosetta, towards 
 the Delta; or of Rachmanie, rather than in that of Aboukir. 
 It was about sun-set when we reached the shore near 
 Aboukir. Here we hired a Greek boat to take us to our 
 
 former 
 
 (4) See Chap. X. p. 301. of the former Section. 
 
 (5) 'Ev Se^ia Si rfjc Kav«/3iio/<; ttvXvc Qiovti, t} SiupvE, lotiv tj C7rl Kdvufiov avv- 
 aTTTovaa rrj \</nv^. " E Canopica porta exeunti addextram est fossa, quae lacuijungitur, 
 «t Canopum fert." Strab. Geog. lib.x\n. p. 1135. Oxon. I8O7. 
 
 (6) Merd Si tov Kdvuflov hart to 'HpaicXetov to 'HpcucXeow; t\ov iepov' eira to 
 K.avo)[3iKdv <TT6p.a, kui t} dp^j tov Ac'Xra. " Post Canopum est Heraclium, quod Herculis 
 templum habet. Inde est Canopicum ostium, et ipsius Delta initium." Stralon. Geog. 
 lib.w'n. p. 1136. Oxon. I8O7. 
 
 VOL. III. 2 R 
 

 306 
 
 CHAP. VIII. 
 
 ALEXANDRIA TO COS. 
 
 former station on board the Felicite merchantman, lying 
 among the transport ships, where we arrived at seven o'clock 
 the same evening. The good old Ragusan Captain gave us 
 a hearty welcome to his cabin, and prepared for us a supper 
 of roasted quails and pilau. Lord Keith had sailed about 
 four days before for Malta, which prevented our taking leave 
 of him, and of the officers of his ship, from whom we had 
 experienced many civilities. Dew fell in such abundance, 
 that the decks were wetted as during a heavy shower; never- 
 theless, from the very animated state of the cabin, we 
 preferred passing the night in this damp situation; and expe- 
 rienced from it no inconvenience. 
 
 We were detained in the fleet until the twenty- third. 
 Upon the seventeenth, Mr. Schutz, who had been our com- 
 panion since we left Rosetta, quitted the ship, and set out for 
 Smvrna. During; the whole of the seventeenth and eighteenth 
 it blew with such violence from the north-west, that our fre- 
 quent endeavours to reach the Turkish squadron proved inef- 
 fectual. During one of them, the crew being quite exhausted 
 with rowing, and a considerable swell meeting the boat from 
 that quarter, we put about, and hoisted sail. In this manner we 
 were carried unawares so much to the leeward, that we soon 
 found ourselves approaching the surf. The first symptom we 
 had of this was in a wave which broke over our boat. A djerm, 
 whose course we had imprudently followed, stood nearer in 
 towards the shore, and gave us notice of our danger, by being 
 stranded in view of us. These accidents happen so fre- 
 quently to the Arabs, that they are under very little alarm 
 when they occur. It was the second instance we had 
 
 witnessed 
 
ALEXANDRIA TO COS. 
 
 witnessed of the same nature 1 . The crew of the djerm were 
 presently seen swimming towards the shore, having aban- 
 doned their boat, and its cargo, in the midst of the surf. 
 We saw them all reach the land in perfect safety. In the 
 mean time, having strained every sinew, by dint of hard and 
 continued exertions with our oars, we succeeded at last in 
 extricating ourselves from this perilous situation. The old 
 Ragusan, when we came on board, was very angry with his 
 men ; and said he had been watching the boat with his glass, 
 expecting every moment to see her meet the same fate which 
 the djerm had experienced. Upon the nineteenth, we had 
 better success, being enabled to reach the English transport 
 ships, and to take leave of several of our friends. We also 
 purchased provisions for our voyage; a little biscuit, some 
 Adrianople tongues, and some English porter : all these were 
 consumed by the Turks, nearly as soon as they were taken on 
 board the frigate in which we were to sail. The porter had 
 been sent as an adventure from Malta, and was sold in 
 bottles, at the rate of thirty shillings per dozen. Many of 
 the Turks are fond of it; and they can drink it without 
 violating the prohibitory laws of the Koran respecting wine. 
 Potatoes, the best of all provisions for a sea voyage, could 
 not be had ; rice was very scarce ; and tea was not to be 
 purchased. Encouraged, however, by the splendid promises 
 of the Capudan Pasha, who had been so liberal to us upon a 
 former occasion 2 , we bestowed very little thought upon our 
 
 means 
 
 .307 
 
 CHAP. VIII. 
 
 (1) See Chap. I. p. 20. of this Volume. 
 
 (2) See Chap. III. p. 6l. of the former Section. 
 
^$mmmm^ pm?& #p|pip 
 
 
 
 308 
 
 CHAP. VIII. 
 
 Turkish 
 
 Frigate. 
 
 ALEXANDRIA TO COS. 
 
 means of subsistence; little expecting what befel us in the 
 sequel. The nineteenth was passed in looking over and 
 transcribing the Notes for our Journals; and in buying a 
 few books, taken on board a French prize, which had been 
 destined for the use of the Institute in Egypt. Upon the 
 twentieth, the wind being less violent, we set out for the 
 Turkish frigate, called Say Yaat Ebarey, on board a large 
 barge belonging to the Fdlicite. We pulled to windward as 
 far as Nelson's Island, and then hoisted sail. When we arrived 
 on board, we were ordered into the ward-room, where we 
 were permitted to sling our cots. This birth (although 
 contrary to the orders given for our reception, which 
 had assigned us a place in the Captain's cabin) proved an 
 advantageous one to us, as it enabled us to view the 
 interior management of a Turkish ship of war. It was the 
 rendezvous of all the officers on board; two of whom 
 were Ragusans. These men, although entirely under 
 the dominion of the Turks, conversed freely upon the 
 ignorance and incapacity of their masters, and often enter- 
 tained us with an account of their blunders and imbecility. 
 They told us, that the superannuated Captain of the frigate 
 had never been to sea before his present voyage; that, at the 
 age of seventy, he had espoused a relation of the Capudan 
 Pasha's, and obtained in consequence his appointment to the 
 frigate; that his nephew, a young man, had rather more 
 experience, and held a station similar to that of first-lieutenant 
 on board one of our ships. All the business of steering the 
 vessel was left to the two Ragusans, and to an old pilot who 
 had never consulted a chart in his life; the Captain's nephew 
 
 having 
 
ALEXANDRIA TO COS. 
 
 309 
 
 having the management of the crew, and the care of the , CHAP ; VIIL 
 rigging. A few French prisoners were kept in irons, ready 
 to be sent aloft in rough weather. To these were added, a 
 sturdy buffoon, who might be considered as burlesquing the 
 office of boatswain ; it was his duty to keep the crew in 
 good-humour by all sorts of tricks and jokes; to promise, 
 and sometimes to distribute, backshish ', when any additional 
 hands were required in aid of the French prisoners aloft, 
 and when the Turkish sailors refused, as they constantly 
 did, to venture from the deck; an ideot, held sacred 
 as a saint, and kept on board for good luck ; a couple of 
 dervishes ; an auctioneer, employed daily in hawking com- 
 modities for sale between the decks; an immense concourse 
 of passengers, from all parts of the Levant ; pilgrims upon 
 their return from Mecca; Tartars, as couriers; sixty Arabian 
 horses, belonging to the Capudan Pasha, with their Arab 
 grooms; venders of coffee and tobacco, who had regular 
 shops established in different parts of the ship; — and, to sum 
 up the whole, a couple of English travellers, with their 
 interpreter, a Greek, who was continually crossing himself 
 at the scene of confusion he witnessed. 
 
 The first day after our arrival on board this frigate, we 
 received information that the Ceres was stationed at a small 
 distance from the Turkish fleet. We hastened to pay our 
 respects once more to our excellent friend Captain Russel, 
 and to the officers of his ship ; but it was to take a last farewell 
 of him. We had the melancholy spectacle of beholding 
 him almost in his last moments. The fever which he had 
 
 caught 
 
 (l) An expression answering to drink- money in English, 
 

 
 3 JO ALEXANDRIA TO COS. 
 
 chap. viii. caught in Cyprus had scarcely ever left him ; and Mr. Hume, 
 the skilful surgeon of his ship, had given over every hope of 
 his recovery. On the twenty-second we received a visit from 
 Captain Culverhouse of the Romulus : returning with him, we 
 spent the day where we had before been so long and hospitably 
 entertained, in company with the captains of other ships then 
 at anchor in the bay. Here we received the news of Nelson's 
 glorious victory at Copenhagen, adding to the triumphs of 
 our beloved country which we had witnessed in Egypt; and 
 the more highly gratifying to us, as, during our residence in 
 Alexandria, the French had industriously circulated a report 
 that Nelson had been defeated. Upon the twenty- third, at 
 day-break, we were under weigh, and soon lost sight of the 
 British fleet. Having thus detailed every particular of our 
 voyage and travels in the most interesting region which it was 
 our fortune to visit, and perhaps more minutely than was often 
 necessary, the remainder of this section, relating to the rest of 
 our observations and adventures in the East, may be given less 
 circumstantially; because they will be found to have refe- 
 rence to countries better known, and where a strict atten- 
 tion to every notice of time and season, if it ever be of 
 consequence, is certainly of little moment. 
 
 We had not been long on board the Turkish frigate, 
 before we began to perceive what sort of fare we were 
 likely to expect. Every article of food we had brought 
 with us speedily disappeared among the motley tenants of 
 the ward-room. Muddy coffee, unsophisticated by any 
 ingredient which could add to its nutritive qualities, might 
 be purchased at any time, in small cups, each containing 
 
 as 
 
ALEXANDRIA TO COS. 
 
 as much of the liquid as would fill a dessert spoon, the rest 
 beinn substantial sediment : this and the fumes of tobacco 
 promised to be the whole of our sustenance. At night, 
 the spectacle on board was perhaps one of the most striking 
 which persons unaccustomed to venture with Turkish 
 mariners can possibly witness. The ship seemed to be 
 left pretty much to her own discretion ; every officer of the 
 watch being fast asleep, the port-holes all open, an enormous 
 quantity of canvas let loose, and the passengers between decks, 
 with paper lanterns, snoozing over their lighted pipes; while 
 the sparks from these pipes, with pieces of ignited fungus 1 , 
 were flying in all directions. Now and then, an unexpected 
 roll called forth murmuring ejaculations of "Alia!" or 
 " Mahmoud ! " and a few were seen squatted singly, counting 
 their prayers according to the beads upon their Tespies*. 
 Upon one of these occasions, the weather being somewhat 
 boisterous and the night very dark, a gun was suddenly 
 heard close under the ship's bows, and the snorers were 
 presently in uproar. What had happened, or what was to 
 be done, no soul on board could tell. A message came 
 speedily into the ward- room, ordering the two djowrs 
 (infidels) and their interpreter to come with all haste to the 
 Captain. We found him, with his long white beard and 
 flowing dress, surrounded by all the paper lanterns that 
 could be collected, extending his arms upon the deck, and 
 
 scolding 
 
 311 
 
 CHAP. VIII. 
 
 (1) Commonly called Amadou, the Boletus igniarius, used over all Europe and 
 Asia as tinder ; although rarely applied to that purpose in England. 
 
 (2) See Chap. XVI. of the former Section, p. 537, Note (3). 
 
312 
 
 ALEXANDRIA TO COS. 
 
 chap , viii. scolding the buffoon. Before he could articulate a word 
 of his business with us, the report of another gun came like 
 a clap of thunder, and, by the flash which accompanied it, 
 this second discharge seemed to be pointed towards the frigate. 
 He then asked us, with great agitation, what those signals 
 were ? and what would be the consequence of his not 
 answering them ? We told him we knew not what the 
 signals were; but that if he delayed answering them, it was 
 possible the next would be accompanied with shot. He said 
 he had been ordered to answer a friend by four stern lanterns, 
 placed one above the other. We advised him by all means 
 to answer as to a friend; and after a general " hue and cry," 
 the old Captain himself ascending the poop, the lanterns were 
 displayed ; but whether according to the proper form or 
 not was never ascertained. We heard no further cause 
 of alarm. When tranquillity was somewhat restored, the 
 old Captain, peering to leeward, affected to see what no 
 one else could discern, and called out with great seeming- 
 satisfaction, " Kootchuk! Kootchuk ! '" a little one! a little one! 
 as possibly it might have been ; viz. one of our English 
 cutters, whose crew were perhaps amusing themselves with 
 the aukwardness of our manoeuvres, and the panic they had 
 occasioned. 
 
 There was no log-book to which we could refer, as in 
 our former voyages, on board English men-of-war; conse- 
 quently we had little opportunity of adding to nautical 
 observations. The mercury, in Fahrenheit's thermometer, 
 stood, September 27, at 78, at noon: yet, coming from 
 a warmer climate, we felt chilly, and put on our winter 
 clothing. Towards evening, this day, the weather became 
 
 squally, 
 
ALEXANDRIA TO COS. 
 
 313 
 
 squally, and the old Captain would gladly have made a chap , vnr. 
 few reefs in his wide- spreading canvas : the buffoon was ac- 
 cordingly set to work, to have this accomplished ; in the mean 
 time the fore-sail went to shivers. Never was there a scene 
 of greater confusion. In the midst of it, one of us attempted 
 to assist, and even spoke to the Captain. His rage upon 
 being addressed by an infidel at this critical moment 
 exceeded all bounds. He spat first upon the deck 1 , then into 
 the sea, attributing the accident entirely to our presence on 
 board, and cursing the whole race of Christians, as the 
 authors of all the ill-luck he had ever encountered. The 
 gale increased ; but it came on from the north-west with 
 more steady violence, and by taking it in poop, and running 
 before it, according to the invariable practice of the Turks, 
 we were secure as long as sea- room could be found. It 
 continued in this manner during one entire night; and if it 
 had not abated the next morning, Sept. 28th, the ship, being 
 suffered to drive, would have been wrecked upon the first 
 lee-shore that intervened in her course towards the south- 
 east. This day at noon, the author having found an excel- 
 lent sextant in the ward- room, which had been taken from a 
 French prisoner, made an observation of the ship's latitude ; 
 and calculating, as well as he was able, the course she had 
 made, upon a chart belonging to one of the Ragusans, ascer- 
 tained her position, Lat. 34°. 50', French Longit. 48°. As 
 the pilots on board, being out of sight of land, knew nothing 
 of her situation, he sent the chart, with a respectful message 
 
 to 
 
 (1) The Oriental mode of cursing, by spitting upon the ground. Allusion has been 
 already made to this practice in the former Chapter. See p. 2Q5, Note (l). 
 
 VOL. III. . ' 2 S 
 

 
 314 
 
 ALEXANDRIA TO COS. 
 
 CHAP. VIII. 
 
 to the Captain, telling him the ship's latitude, and her pro- 
 bable distance from Rhodes, Finica Bay, Cyprus, &c. Upon 
 this he was summoned, with the Ragusan, into the cabin, 
 and immediately asked, how he could pretend to know 
 where the ship then was ? Having stated that he had ascer- 
 tained this by means of a sextant found in a drawer of the 
 ward-room, and a calculation of the ship's course, according 
 to the common observations daily made on board English and 
 other ships, the Ragusan was despatched to bring the thing 
 called sextant instantly before the Captain. This instrument 
 being altogether incomprehensible to him, he contented 
 himself with viewing it in every direction, except that 
 in which it might be used ; and, stroking his long beard, 
 said to the Ragusan, " Thus it is always with these poor 
 djowrs (infidels), they can make nothing out without some 
 peeping contrivance of this kind : now tue Turks require no 
 sextants — we, (pointing with his finger to his forehead) we 
 have our sextants here," 
 
 The wind changing, we continued drifting about, 
 with occasional apprehensions of starvation, drowning, or 
 of being blown up by the ship's taking fire. The first 
 land we saw was ascertained to be a part of the moun- 
 tainous coast of Caramania, or Lycia. Passing in view of the 
 Chelidonian Isles, and Promontorium Sacrum, we stood into 
 Bay of Finica. Finica Bay, whither the Turkish fleet, lying at Aboukir, 
 had resorted for fresh water from the river Limyrus, which 
 falls into the bay, near the village or town of Finica, where 
 Limyra formerly stood. Here we were becalmed ; and 
 being near enough to see the houses on shore, we applied 
 for permission to land, that we might examine the remains of 
 
 Limyra, 
 
ALEXANDRIA TO COS. 
 
 315 
 
 Limyra, and also of My ra, which stood near the mouth of chap^viii. 
 another river, upon the western side of the bay. Our 
 Captain, by the advice of his pilots, acted for once like a 
 true seaman, and would allow no one to land ; intending, 
 as he said, to get farther out to sea as soon as possible. 
 As the evening advanced, a land-breeze carried us again 
 from the bay ; but before night came on, it blew only in 
 hot gusts ; and being upon deck, we were in utter asto- 
 nishment at the indescribable grandeur of the Lycian 
 coast, and the awful phenomena by which we were sur- 
 rounded. Stupendous mountains, as the shadows increased, 
 appeared close to the ship, towering above our top- masts ; 
 the higher parts being covered with snow, or partly con- 
 cealed by thick clouds ; the air around us becoming every 
 instant more sultry and stagnant. Presently the whole Meteoric 
 
 Phenomena. 
 
 atmosphere was illuminated. The mountains seemed to 
 vomit fire. A pale but vivid lightning darted innumerable 
 flashes over every object, even among the masts and rig- 
 ging. Never surely was such a scene elsewhere exhibited ! 
 The old Greek pilots crossed themselves, but comforted 
 us with the assurance that this appearance of the kindling 
 elements was common upon this coast; and that it 
 denoted favourable weather. We heard little thunder; 
 but streams of living light ran continually from the 
 summits of the mountains towards the sea, and, seeming to 
 separate before they reached the water, filled the air with 
 coruscations. Since, reflecting upon this circumstance 
 as characterizing the coast, it seems to explain a fabulous 
 notion which the Antients entertained of the Chimaera 
 
 disgorging 
 
jiii 
 
 316 
 
 CHAP. VIII. 
 
 Chimera of 
 the Antients. 
 
 Eastern Coast 
 of Rhodes. 
 
 ALEXANDRIA TO COS. 
 
 disgorging flames upon the Lycian territory 1 , alluded to by 
 Ovid in the wandering of BibhV. It is true, that a volcano 
 might suit the story better ; and it is thus explained by 
 Servius, with reference to a burning mountain in the neigh- 
 bouring region of Caria; the topographical history of the 
 Chimera being by some writers attributed to Caria, and 
 by others to Lycja; but the existence of this volcano has not 
 yet been ascertained : indeed such is our ignorance of the 
 whole coast of Asia Minor, from Cnidus to Tarsus, in- 
 cluding all the maritime districts of Caria, Lycia, Pamphylia, 
 and Cilicia, that we have no account either of its ruins or its 
 natural history 3 . 
 
 Sailing westward the whole night and following day, on 
 the morning of October the first, at sun-rise, we made the 
 eastern coast of the Island of Rhodes, and put the ship's 
 head to the north. During this day we had some pleasant 
 sailing, within twenty miles of the shore: the atmosphere 
 being exceedingly clear, we seemed to survey the whole 
 island in one view, from its southern towards its northern 
 extremity. Coming opposite to Lindus, the weather being 
 calm, the author was enabled to complete an outline of this 
 once-favoured land 4 , according to its bearing at the time. 
 
 It 
 
 (1) " In Lycia igitur, a promontorio ejus oppidum Simena, "ions Chim&ra noctibus 
 flagrans." Plin. Hist. Nat. lib. v. c. 27. torn. I. p. 271. L. Bat. 1635. 
 
 (2) Ovid. Metam. lib. ix. 
 
 (3) In the number of English travellers now visiting the Eastern shores of the Medi- 
 terranean, it is hoped that some one will be induced to explore these regions. 
 
 (4) " Pulcherrima et libera Rhodos." (Plin. Hist. Nat. 1. v. c. 31. L. Bat. 1635. 
 See also Lucian. 
 
fit*.'! 1 
 
 Ml ijiri 
 
 ' ■ I LM'I 
 

RHODES LINDUS. 
 
 317 
 
 It embraces nearly its whole extent, from north to , CHAP - VIlt * 
 south ; shewing the relative position of Lindus and Rhodes, 
 and the appearance exhibited by its rough, craggy, and 
 broken land, as compared with the features of other islands 
 represented in the former section. The country immediately 
 around Lindus is described by Philostratus as being the most 
 rugged of the Rhodian territory. It was particularly fa- 
 vourable for the cultivation of the vine and the fig-tree, but 
 ill adapted to other purposes of agriculture, and impassable 
 for carts and waggons. In this perhaps it resembled the 
 Land of Judaea, where corn has always been cultivated by 
 means of terraces formed upon the sides of the mountains. 
 From the nature of the land about Lindus, the whole island 
 received the appellation which it bears in Statius 6 , of*' the 
 rugged Rhodes" Our pilots pointed out to us the emi- 
 nence on which the remains of antient Lindus are. situ- 
 ated. The collection of rarities once dedicated in votive 
 offerings at the shrine of the Lindian Minerva, must have 
 rendered the temple, considered as a museum only, one of 
 the most curious sights to which the inhabitants of Greece 
 resorted. Vessels of antient bronze, military trophies, armour, 
 and weapons, were frequently suspended as donatives in 
 their sanctuaries. But such was the antiquity of some of 
 the gifts in the Lindian temple, that one of them, a bronze 
 caldron, had been presented by Cadmus ; and it was distin- 
 guished by an inscription in Phoenician characters 6 . An 
 
 offering 
 
 (5) In Equo Domitiani, lib. ii. 
 
 (6) Diodorus Sic. lib. ii. Herodot. lib.ii. 
 

 318 
 
 CHAP. VIII. 
 
 Southern 
 Shores of 
 Asia Minor. 
 
 ALEXANDRIA TO COS. 
 
 offering of Amasis, king of Egypt, seems to have been re- 
 garded as the principal marvel of the temple, notwithstanding 
 the pictures of Parrhasius and of Zeuxis, by which it had been 
 adorned ; this was a linen thorax of net- work, each thread 
 consisting of as many filaments as there are days in the year. 
 The Consul Mutianus, says Pliny, had himself unravelled one 
 of these threads, and had borne testimony to the fact 1 . 
 
 From the eastern coast of Rhodes our Captain stood over 
 once more towards the coast of Lycia and the Seven Capes. 
 In the morning of October the second, we found ourselves 
 in the midst of islands and promontories, placed upon the 
 bright expanse as it were of a mirror without boundary. It 
 is quite impossible to excite, by description, any ideas of such 
 scenery. The impression made upon our minds, who had 
 beheld these sights before, was new again. The immensity 
 of the objects ; the varied nature of the territory over all the 
 southern shores of Asia Minor; the prodigious effect of light 
 and shade, in masses extending for leagues; the sublime 
 effulgence and the ineffable whiteness of the snow-clad 
 summits, contrasted with the dark chasms on the sides of 
 the mountains ; the bold precipices, and the groupes of 
 numerous islands ; the glorious brightness and the intensity 
 of colour diffused over the horizon ; — these indeed may be 
 enumerated, but they cannot be described. We con- 
 tinued surveying them, as if we had then seen them only 
 
 for 
 
 (l) " Mirentur hoc, ignorantes in iEgyptii quondam regis, quern Amasim vocanr, 
 thorace in Rhodiorum insula ostendi in templo Minervae ccclxv fills singula fila constare. 
 Quod se expertum nuper Romas prodidit Mutianus ter Consul, parvasque jam reliquias 
 ejus superesse hac experientium injuria." Plin. Hist. Nat. lib. xix. c. 1. L. Bat. 1635. 
 
ALEXANDRIA TO COS. 
 
 319 
 
 for the first time. The Turkish practice of keeping near the 
 shore, when land is in view, enabled us to see the whole 
 coast of Lycia and of Caria. As we proceeded towards 
 Doris, the eye commanded in one prospect the whole of 
 that part of Asia Minor, even to the Triopian Promontory, 
 or Cape Crio, together with the islands of Rhodes, Syme, 
 Sicklia, Telo, and even Scarpanto, lying at the distance of 
 thirty leagues in the Carpathian Sea 2 . 
 
 During this day we were employed in crossing the mouth 
 of the Gulph of Glaucus. Continuing our voyage towards 
 the north-west,we found ourselves becalmed near the entrance 
 of the Bay of Marmora, antiently that of Perzea, the memorable 
 rendezvous of our fleet, previous to the Egyptian Expedition. 
 The magnificent harbour it affords has been described by 
 other writers; but as it remained so long unknown, and may 
 always prove an important place of refuge for vessels in these 
 stormy seas, the author again availed himself of the tranquil 
 situation of the ship to sketch the appearance of the coast, 
 and to note the bearing of the land when the view 
 was made'. It will shew the mountainous course of the 
 
 territory 
 
 chap, viil 
 
 (2) " Rhodiorum insulae, Carpathus, quae mari nomen dedit." Plin. Hist. Kat. 
 lib. v. c.31. torn. I. p. 280. L. Bat. 1635. 
 
 (3) A short extract from Colonel Squire's MS. Correspondence will afford the 
 reader a description of this bay ; and the curious circumstance of the " myrtle fascines," 
 prepared for the attack in Egypt, will not pass without observation. It is taken from 
 a Letter to the Rev. E. Squire, dated " Marmorice Bay, Jan. 21, 1801." 
 
 " Our present situation is as charming and picturesque as can well be imagined : the 
 bay is completely landlocked, and, from within, appears as a sheet of water, or lake, 
 surrounded by lofty mountains, wooded to the very summit; but here and there divided 
 by deep impenetrable valleys, thick with shrubs of every description ; to which a clear, 
 yet constant stream, imparts freshness and verdure. Sometimes one height is separated 
 
 from 
 
 Bay of 
 Marmora. 
 
'••wwwjran «Bv«^7a»»^< 7*r' w ^?*s~ i*<F!**<r- ■ *w*j2 
 
 320 ALEXANDRIA TO COS. 
 
 chap. viii. territory opposite Rhodes ; although the features of Nature 
 do not here present so gigantic an appearance as to the 
 eastward of the Seven Capes. The wind afterwards be- 
 coming favourable for Rhodes, we stood for the town ; and 
 coming close to it, fired a gun, as a signal for a boat to put 
 off to the ship. When the boat arrived, we represented to 
 the Captain the necessity of our landing with the despatches 
 from the Capudan Pasha, which he had charged us to deliver 
 with our own hands to the Governor; but the wary old Turk, 
 apprehending at least the possibility of its being an order for 
 his own execution 1 , delivered the despatches to the boatmen, 
 and, without waiting for any answer, made all the sail he 
 could to get away from the island. The Ragusans explained 
 his conduct to us; for it seemed otherwise unaccountable 
 that he should thus wantonly disobey his commanding officer, 
 to whom, at the same time, he was so nearly related. 
 
 On the following morning we found that we had made 
 but little progress, being off the Island of Episcopia, or 
 Piscopy, called Hellika by the Turks, and Telo by the modern 
 
 Greeks, 
 
 from another by a large extensive plain, divided into fields, and covered with an 
 abundance of cattle : add to these the little town of Marmorice, with its mosque and 
 minaret, the shipping at anchor, the boats passing to and fro, the tents on differert parts 
 of the shore, and the variety of objects, will be found to compose a picture tint can 
 never be surpassed. On the ninth instant, my brother officers and myself were hnded, 
 and encamped with a party of two hundred artificers, for the purpose of making fiscines, 
 and preparing our particular branch of the service for the ensuing campaign. Would 
 you believe that most of our fascines are of the most beautiful myrtle j an<i that, 
 probably, in a few weeks, we shall be planting our cannon in myrtle 
 batteries before Alexandria?" Colonel Squire's MS. Correspondence. 
 
 (l) The grandees of Turkey are sometimes sent to Rhodes, when it is necesary to 
 get rid of them, with an order to the Governor for their own execution. 
 


 
ISLAND OF COS. 
 
 321 
 
 Town of 
 Stanciiio. 
 
 Greeks, antiently Telos*. Thence doubling again the chvp. vu. 
 Triopian promontory, we came once more in sight of Cos, 
 and arrived near the town of Stanchio, Sunday, October the 
 fourth. Here a Dervish, who came with us from Egypt, 
 wished to go on shore ; and as we had still much to do in 
 Greece, and were very desirous of leaving the Turkish frigate, 
 we renewed our applications to the Captain to enable us to 
 land with the Dervish. He told us not to lose a moment, if 
 such were our intentions, as the small boat which he had 
 prepared was incapable of containing many persons, and it 
 was filling very fast from the port-holes. We committed 
 some of our trunks to his care, to be conveyed to Constan- 
 tinople ; and taking with us as few necessaries as possible, 
 leaped into the midst of the crowd in the boat, at the moment 
 in which it was leaving the ship. Fortunately the sea was 
 perfectly calm; for we soon found that with the smallest 
 motion we should all go to the bottom, the water being 
 already even with the boat's edge; and it required the utmost 
 caution in rowing her three miles from the ship to the shore, 
 to prevent her filling; so deeply was she laden. 
 
 A Greek bishop had arrived in Stanchio since our last visit, 
 to whom we were introduced. He began already to wish for 
 the money which his promotion had cost him ; having gained 
 nothing by the bargain, as he himself told us, excepting a fine 
 painted and gilded firman, from Constantinople, which no one 
 respected. He intended however, as he told us, to reimburse 
 
 himself 
 
 (2) See Plate facing p. 220 of the First Section of Part II. 
 VOL. III. 2 T 
 

 
 322 
 
 CHAP. VIII. 
 
 Situation of 
 the French 
 Consul. 
 
 ISLAND OF COS. 
 
 himself in his capacity of magistrate; the bishops in the 
 Isles acting as justices of the peace, in all disputes among the 
 Greeks, and generally taking care to be well paid for their 
 trouble. He accompanied us to the Governor, where, having 
 obtained an audience, we produced a letter from the Capudan 
 Pasha, enjoining all persons, as far as the Turkish power by 
 sea extended, to render us assistance upon our travels. We 
 told the Governor, that we had no other favour to ask of 
 him, than to procure for us some vessel which we might 
 hire by the month. He said there was nothing suitable at 
 present in the harbour; but desired our Interpreter to accom- 
 pany one of his officers to the opposite port of Budrun 
 (Halicarnassus) , where it might be possible to find something 
 adapted to our undertaking. To this we agreed, and hired 
 a set of apartments near the bishop's house, where we 
 remained, waiting the return of our messengers. 
 
 The next day we received a visit from our old friend the 
 French Consul, who came to welcome our arrival, and, poor 
 as he w T as, to offer his services. He had not received a 
 single sous from his government since he had resided 
 upon the island; nor was there any prospect that the arrears 
 would be paid. While he remained with us s he received 
 information that a transport ship, with French prisoners 
 from Egypt, having separated from the convoy, had put in 
 for water and provisions. We told him, that a proper 
 opportunity now offered of obtaining some supply from his 
 countrymen; as they had been allowed to remove to France 
 the wealth which they had acquired in Egypt by plunder, and, 
 doubtless, had much treasure on board. He smiled at the 
 idea of receiving assistance from any of the " Heroes of the 
 
 Republic. .'" 
 
 \ 
 
ISLAND OF COS. 
 
 Republic /" but allowed us to make the experiment; stating 
 first a memorial of his case in writing, and addressing it 
 to the officers and privates in the transport. With this 
 document we hastened on board; and being conducted into 
 the cabin, found there a General of the French army, who had 
 lost a leg in one of the late actions, and was confined to his 
 cot, surrounded by French soldiers, some of whom were 
 officers, all disputing and talking at once. As soon as we 
 had obtained a hearing, we presented our petition, and 
 endeavoured to urge the suit entrusted to us with all the 
 persuasion we could use. It w^as to no purpose. The 
 Consul, they said, might be a man of merit ; he had 
 served his country faithfully; but there was nothing in their 
 situation, or in his, that could warrant an interposition on 
 their part between the republic and its agents. We contended 
 that it ought not to be considered as an interference in State 
 matters, but as a work of common charity, and as an act 
 of real patriotism: but these terms, charity and patriotism, as 
 they were to be paid for, were not very graciously received. 
 After a few more appeals and repeals, bows, protestations, 
 and grimaces, we were forced to return without having 
 accomplished the object of our mission. 
 
 During four days that we were detained upon the island, 
 we renewed our search after antiquities, and particularly 
 after Inscriptions. We had every reason to believe that re- 
 mains of this kind might be found within the Castle; but our 
 entrance was, as usual, strictly prohibited. The Consul himself 
 had never obtained admission; so cautious are the Turks in 
 preventing foreigners from inspecting their fortifications. 
 We ventured, however, upon the draw-bridge which crosses 
 
 the 
 
 323 
 
 CHAP. VIII. 
 

 Antient 
 Sculpture. 
 
 Inscriptions. 
 
 ISLAND OF COS. 
 
 the mote on the land side; and as we drew near to the 
 gateway, observed above the entrance, six masks ', of the most 
 exquisite sculpture: some of these were represented with 
 beards. We saw also, very distinctly, the letters of a Greek 
 Inscription on each side of the entrance 2 . 
 
 These Inscriptions, notwithstanding the expedition, and 
 the circumspection also, requisite in tracing them, the 
 author believes he has copied with accuracy. The first 
 is a most affecting and beautiful memorial of filial piety in 
 an eminently virtuous woman. It is in the wall, on the left 
 side of the Castle-gate, to a person facing the entrance. 
 It sets forth, that " the senate and people have honoured 
 
 SUETONIA THE DAUGHTER OF CAIUS, WHO HAS LIVED CHASTELY 
 AND WITH DECORUM; BOTH ON ACCOUNT OF HER OWN VIRTUE, 
 AND THE BENEVOLENCE SHE HAS SHEWN TOWARDS HER FATHER." 
 
 The legend is as follows: 
 
 ABOYAAKAIOAAMOZ 
 
 ETEI M AZANZOYHTI2 
 
 NIANrAIOYGYrATEPA 
 
 nPEIMANZHZAZAN 
 
 Zf2<l>PON12ZKAIKOZ 
 
 M IftZAIATETANAYTAZ 
 
 APETANKAIAIATANEZ 
 
 TON n ATEPAAYTAZ 
 
 ZOYHTflNIONEPMI 
 
 ANEYNOIANTEIMAZXAPIM 
 
 On 
 
 (1) A part of the frieze mentioned in the former Section, Chap. VII. p. 213, 
 Note (1). Broxb. 1813. 
 
 (21 As neither of these Inscriptions has been observed or published by Spon, or 
 any other former traveller, no apology is necessary for their insertion here. It may 
 
 be 
 
ISLAND OF COS. 
 
 325 
 
 On the right-hand side of the gate, exactly opposite to this, chap.viii. 
 is another Inscription of a similar nature, commemorating 
 the exemplary conduct of a woman towards her husband; 
 purporting that " the people erect anaxinaea daughter 
 
 OF EUAEON, WIFE OF CHARMYLUS, ON ACCOUNT OF HER VIRTUE 
 AND CHASTITY AND BENEVOLENCE TOWARDS HER HUSBAND." 
 
 This is the order of the legend : 
 
 OAAMOZANE0HKE 
 
 ANAZINAHANEYAIONOZ 
 
 TYNAIKAAEXAPMYAOYTOY 
 
 XAPMYAOYAPETAZEN EKAKAI 
 
 Zn<t>POZYNAZKAITAZnOTI 
 
 TONANAPAAYTAZEYNOIAZ 
 
 What an exalted idea do these records convey of the state 
 of society, in a country where the private virtues of the 
 inhabitants were considered as public benefits, and were 
 gratefully and publickly commemorated by the Senate and the 
 People; where the filial piety and the chastity of its women 
 were thus honoured and rewarded! Even amidst the de- 
 praved state of public morals, in the modern cities of Europe, 
 were these virtues estimated at as high a price, each nation 
 would have to boast of an Anaxincea and a Suetonia. Let 
 there be only an equal excitement to virtue, and human-nature 
 would be found the same in every age. The sublime and 
 
 affecting 
 
 be said, th.it a more methodical distribution of the subject of these Travels would- have 
 required their introduction into the account of Co*, as it was published in the lormer 
 Section: but in the very beginning of his undertaking (See Part 1. p. 3.) the author pro- 
 mised to make his Work " as similar as possible to the state in which Notes taken on the 
 spot were made;' and he is not conscious of having ever deviated from his engagement. 
 

 
 s 
 
 326 
 
 ISLAND OF COS. 
 
 chap , viii. affecting institution of national honours for exemplary morals 
 would not operate less effectually in this enlightened age 
 than in the best periods of Grecian history ; and although " the 
 price of a virtuous woman is far above rubies," yet in such 
 an institution even female virtue would find its value : " her 
 own works would praise her in the gates," and " strength 
 and honour would be her clothing." 
 
 We found other Inscriptions in our second visit to this 
 island, but of less consideration. Upon a slab of Cipolino 
 marble, forming a bench near to the old Greek Monastery, 
 we observed an Inscription of some length, relating to one 
 of the vessels employed in a bath ; beginning hittaaoi, and 
 followed by a list of names. Others upon votive altars were 
 numerous. Near to an arch at the entrance of the Market, 
 we saw a beautiful altar of Parian marble, ornamented with 
 bulls' heads, having bands or fillets, as for sacrifice, falling 
 on each side; and supporting festoons of flowers, beauti- 
 fully sculptured. It had this Inscription : 
 
 HPAKAEIAOYTOY 
 
 APTEMIAnPOY 
 
 AAEZANAPEI1Z 
 
 These, with fragments of porphyry, breccia, and other ma- 
 terials of antient sculpture, lying about the modern town of 
 Stanchio, and already alluded to 1 , are all that we noticed 
 upon this occasion. Of the renowned Asclepie'um, men- 
 tioned 
 
 (l) See Chap. VII. p. 213, of the former Section of Part II. Broxb. 1812. 
 
ISLAND OF COS. 
 
 327 
 
 timed by Strabo 2 , we could find no traces; although it is chap.vih., 
 reasonable to expect that the remains of such a building Asdepteam. 
 nay be here discovered: it was situated in a suburb of the 
 antient city; notofJstypalea, the first metropolis of the people 
 01 Cos — for that city stood elsewhere 3 — but of Cos, a city 
 built upon the point of Scander'ia, to the westward; so that its 
 stburbs probably occupied the situation of the modern town. 
 Possibly the Mosque may now occupy the original site of the 
 A.clepieum: near to it there was a grove, consecrated to 
 iEsculapius 4 . One of the assassins of Julius Caesar, Publius 
 Turullius, a Roman senator, cut down almost all the trees 
 for ship timber; but afterwards, being delivered up by his 
 friend Anthony to Augustus, he was put to death. In the 
 uncertainty which prevails with regard to the age of trees 5 , 
 and particularly of the Plane-tree, which is known to exist for 
 centuries, perhaps the marvellous tree ofStanchio, alluded to 
 upon a former occasion 6 , if it be not a venerable remnant 
 of this grove, may, as a spontaneous produce resulting from 
 it, denote its actual situation. The conjecture seems to be 
 warranted by the number of antient altars still remaining 
 about the body of this tree. The Asclepieum was filled 
 
 with 
 
 (2) 'A2KAHIHEION. Strabon. Geog. lib.xiv. p.g41. Oxon. I8O7. 
 
 (3) 'H Sc tuv Kuuy tt6\i<; tKaXciro to rraXaidy "A-frrvwakaia, Kal uiictiro h <x\\f 
 Tony. Strabon. Geog. lib.xiv. p. 940. Ed. Oxon. I8O7. 
 
 (4) Dio Cassius. 
 
 (5) Cowper speaks of an oak which had flourished from the time of the conquest 5 
 (See Hayley's Life of Cowper, vol. III. p. 166. Chichest. 1806.) and allusion has been 
 already made to the famous olive-tree in the Citadel at Athens, that had existed from 
 the foundation of the city. 
 
 (6) See p. 198 of the former Section. Broth. 1812. 
 
328 
 
 CH\P VIII. 
 
 Votive 
 Otferinjrs. 
 
 ISLAND OF COS. 
 
 with the most costly vows; and, among the number, the most 
 famous paintings of Apelles — his Antigomis, and his Venus 
 Anadyomene. Augustus removed the last picture to Rome, 
 and there consecrated it in the shrine of his father 1 . 
 
 The custom of suspending pictures in churches, repre- 
 senting hair-breadth escapes from casual disaster or disorder, 
 as votive offerings to patron Saints who are believed to have 
 been propitious to the donors, is still common in many coun- 
 tries, particularly where the Greek and the Catholic religion 
 is professed: in the same manner, models in wax, or sculp- 
 tured representations of parts of the human body, such as 
 the hands or the feet, recovered from disease, are often placed 
 before an image, in small shrines near to the road side, in the 
 defiles of mountains, particularly in the Alps. The most 
 curious fact connected with the practice is this, that it is 
 much older than the time of Hippocrates. Such offerings 
 have been made from time immemorial by the Hindoos 2 : 
 but among the Greeks, it was customary to devote within 
 their temples something more than the mere symbol of a 
 benefit received; inscriptions were added to such signs, 
 setting forth the nature of the remedy that had been suc- 
 cessful, or giving a description of the peculiar grace that had 
 
 been 
 
 (1) Strabon. Geog. lib.xlv. p.Q41. Oxon. 1807 . " Venerem exeuntem e mari 
 Divus Augustus dicavit in delubro patiis Caesaris, quae Anadyomene vocatur." Plin. 
 Hist Nat. lib. xxxv. cap. 10. L.Bat. 1 035. The same circumstance is also related 
 by Quintilian. 
 
 (2) The women, in many parts of India, hang out offerings to their Deities; either 
 a string of beads, or a lock of hair, or some other trifling present, when a child, or any 
 one of their family, has been recovered from illness. 
 
ISLAND OF COS. 
 
 329 
 
 been accorded 5 . In the churches of the North of Europe, chap viil 
 and particularly in those of Denmark and Norway, the 
 
 traces 
 
 (3) " Among the remains of antiquity which offer themselves to the notice of the 
 traveller in hisjourney through Greece and Asia, there are some, hitherto, not sufficiently 
 regarded: and yet they are of importance, as being connected with the religious opinions 
 of the Antients, and as being prototypes of a custom existing at this day in Christian 
 countries. I allude to the votive offerings which were presented to some Deities, on the 
 restoration to health, after a bodily complaint or disease. The eyes, the feet, the hands, 
 sometimes* the whole body, were, as soon as health returned to the invalid, formed in 
 marble, earthenware, and other materials, and offered to a presiding Deity. In Italy, 
 and in other Roman-Catholic countries -f, this custom still prevails; and in the Greek 
 churches we have witnessed similar representations, in silver, wax, and other substances, 
 dedicated to patron saints. 
 
 "A question here arises concerning the antiquity of this practice: In what country, 
 and at what period, did it first commence } On these points we are in possession of an 
 authentic fact, by which we are enabled to answer, in some degree, the question : at 
 least, we are informed by it, that the antiquity of the custom is great ; and that it prevailed 
 in the East, and was thence probably introduced into Greece. 
 
 " When the Philistines had taken away the Ark of the God of Israel, the hand of 
 the Lord, we read, was heavy upon them ; and he smote them. When they determined 
 to send back the ark, they asked their priests what offering they should make to the 
 Lord, that they might be relieved from the disorder which attacked their bodies, 
 and from the other calamity, that of mice, which destroyed the land. The priests 
 answered, ' Ye shall make golden images of your emerods, and images of your mice 
 ' that mar the land ; and ye shall give glory unto the God of Israel ; peradventure he will 
 ' lighten his hand from olf you. And they did so; and they laid the Ark of the Lord 
 ' upon the cart, and the coffer with the mice of gold, and with the images of their 
 ' emerods J.' 
 
 "This, we have no doubt, is the earliest mention of the custom we are considering. 
 We have observed at Phocaea in the antient Lydia, at Eleusis, at Athens, and other parts 
 of Greece, holes of a square form, cut in the limestone rock, for the purpose of receiving 
 
 * these 
 
 * In the Island of Santorin there are some singular representations, on the rock. Tomasini 
 gives the votive figure of a man in a dropsical state. 
 
 f " Ea quippe licentia, (says Baronius,) qua Deorum deluhra in Ecclesias Christianorum sunt 
 laudabiliter commutata, alii quoque ritus a nobis benedictionibus expiati divino sunt cultui 
 consecrati." 
 
 t 1 Samuel vi. 5, 11. " Solebant Veteres, (says Bochart, on this passage,) aliquo metu vel 
 periculo defuncti,ipraeteritorum malorum insignia ac monumenta illis Diis consecrare, a quibus 
 se liberatos putabant." Hieroz. lib. xi. c, 36. 
 
 VOL. III. 
 
 2 U 
 

 .^^.^TT^flfTV 
 
 330 
 
 CHAP. VIII. 
 
 ISLAND OF COS. 
 
 traces of this antient custom may yet be observed ; the dona 
 votiva being often suspended in the form, of pictures repre- 
 senting hair-breadth escapes, a deliverance from banditti, or 
 
 a recovery 
 
 these votive offerings : sometimes the offerings themselves, eyes, feet, hands, have been 
 discovered. At Cyzicum there is a representation of two feet on marble, with an 
 inscription; probably the vow of some person who had performed a prosperous journey. 
 The same subject is referred to in the engraving of a tablet published by Tomasini, 
 on which are seen two feet, accompanied with these letters, QVIE IANAE H D, 
 shewing that it was an offering by a person of the name of Jana to Hygeia : and' if the 
 word Quie be properly explained', quiescentis, the whole has reference, as we have 
 observed, to a journey performed with safety. 
 
 " Women, after child-birth, made votive offerings; and a representation of the girdle 
 was consecrated to Diana*. Acuuherus explains the subject of a marble, in which a 
 person of the turn i of Libmedon makes an offering to the Lochian Diana, on the safe 
 delivery of his wife. 
 
 " All these offerings, which were made either during illness, or after recovery from 
 it, were termed yapiarripia r>/<; ffurrfpiac- the words hupov, ydpicrixa, dvdBt]p:a, 
 were also used : and in Latin, Dona, and Donaria. 
 
 " As the temples of Neptune received the votive tributes of those who had escaped 
 the dangers of the sea ; so the temples of iE-culapius were adorned with tablets pre- 
 sented by persons restored to health. Invalids were allowed to sleep in the porticoes, 
 and the interior, of the fanes of Isis and iEsculapius ; and there, by the way of dream, 
 they received advice concerning the remedies they should use to procure their health. 
 ' Julian (says an old inscription) vomited blood ; and was given over : the God told 
 ' him to come and take the cones of a pine-tree, and eat them, with honey, for three 
 * days. He received his health, and came and returned thanks in the presence of the 
 ' people.' 
 
 " ' Valerius Aper, a soldier, was blind. The God told him to take the blood of a 
 ' white cock; to mix it with honey, and make an ointment of it ; and apply it to his eye» 
 ' for three days. He gained his sight, and came and returned thanks.' 
 
 " On these, and similar occasions, we must suppose the votive offerings were pre- 
 sented; many of which are found in Greece and Asiaf. They were fixed, as we have 
 
 observed,. 
 
 * Called Diana Aurlgawos. Zonam solvere, in Latin, has reference to marriage : among; the 
 Greeks, it referred to the birth of the first child. Scaliger on Catullus. 
 
 f The medicine itself was sometimes placed in the temples ; as in the case of a goldsmith, who. 
 on his death bed, bequeathed an ointment to a temple, which those who were unable to see tb< 
 physicians might use. — /Etius, Tetr. xi. Serm. 4. 
 
ISLAND OF COS. 
 
 a recovery from sickness ; and these pictures are frequently 
 inscribed with the particulars of the case thereby com- 
 memorated. It was from a list of remedies collected in 
 
 the 
 
 331 
 
 CHAP. VIII. 
 
 observed, sometimes in the rock, near the sacred precincts of a temple; sometimes 
 appended to the walls and columns of the temples : they were fastened also by wax to 
 the knees, or other parts of the statues of the Gods*. 
 
 " When we say, that the offerings were made in the temple of Isis, we must under- 
 stand, that the honour was paid particularly to Serapis, joint-tenant of the temple, as 
 the God of Medicine. ' Ego Medicina a Serapi utor, % says Varrof. See also Cicero, in 
 his second book, De Divinat. Nor did those only who recovered from illness pay their 
 votive tribute of gratitude to the Gods; their friends often united with them in this act 
 of devotion. 
 
 " The period of the first introduction into the Christian church of this custom, once 
 so prevalent in Pagan Italy and Greece, cannot be precisely fixed. But Theodoret, 
 one of the Greek Fathers, has a passage in his Therapeutics §, which attests the existence 
 of the practice, in the fifth century, of Christians offering, in their churches, representa- 
 tions of parts of the body restored to health : ' Some,' he says, ' offer up effigies 
 ' (cKrvird/j,aTa) of eyes; others, of feet; others, of hands; made of gold, and silver.' 
 
 " The same spirit of religious feeling which prompted the Pagans to make the 
 offerings we have adverted to, urged them to consider themselves, in every trans- 
 action and situation of life, as under the presiding care of some Deity; to whom, oonse- 
 quently, some manifestation of gratitude was due in all successful undertakings. The 
 husbandman, after the harvest, offered up his instruments of husbandry ; poets, and 
 men of genius, consecrated their harps, lyres, and volumes, to Minerva and Apollo ; 
 conquerors presented some of the spoils won in warll. The temples of the Greeks 
 were, we know, used by different States, as Banks ; to this circumstance was owing, in 
 part, the vast wealth which they contained; and this was increased by the costly 
 offerings t in gold and silver, presented on various occasions." IValpolcs MS. Journal. 
 
 * Juven. Sat. x. 54. Prudent, contra Symm. lib. i. Lucian. Philop. 
 
 f Turn. Adv. lib. iii. c. 8. " An /Esculapius, an Serapis, potest prsscribere per somnium 
 curationem valetudiuis." Cicero de Divin. 
 
 § Lib. viii. 
 
 || Of this description \% the antiont Arrive helmet found in the alluvial soil of the Alpheus, at 
 Olvmpia, by Mr. Morritt ; now in the possession of Mr. Knight. 
 
 i One of the most antient offerings in Greece was that bearing an inscription, in Cadmean 
 letters, on a tripod, at Thebes. Herod- lib. v. p. 400. ' Kfj.^tr^uuv ft uvUwctv )uv d.-ro "X^Xi^oian. 
 ?*» is the emendation of Valguarnera. via? is preferred by Villoison, (Anec.'n. 129.) with inttixt. 
 

 332 
 
 ISLAND OF COS. 
 
 Singular part 
 of the Maho- 
 metan Law. 
 
 chap. viii. the temples that Hippocrates of Cos framed a regular set 
 of canons for the art of medicine, and reduced the practice 
 of physic to a system 1 . 
 
 A remarkable cause was tried while we were in Cos ; and 
 a statement of the circumstance on which it was founded will 
 serve to exhibit a very singular part of the Mahometan law; 
 namely, that which relates to " Homicide by implication." An 
 instance of a similar nature was before noticed, when it was 
 related that the Capudan Pasha reasoned with the people of 
 Samos upon the propriety of their paying for a Turkish frigate 
 which was wrecked upon their territory; " because the acci- 
 dent would not have happened unless their island had been in 
 the way." This was mentioned as a characteristic feature of 
 Turkish justice, and so it really was; that is to say, it was a 
 sophistical application of a principle rigidly founded upon the 
 •fifth species of homicide , according to the Mahometan law; or 
 " Homicide hy an intermediate cause" which is strictly the name 
 it bears 9 . The case which occurred at Cos fell more imme- 
 diately under the cognizance of this law. It was as follows. 
 A young man desperately in love with a girl of Stanchio, 
 eagerly sought to marry her ; but his proposals were re- 
 jected. In consequence of his disappointment, he bought 
 some poison and destroyed himself. The Turkish police 
 
 instantly 
 
 (1) "Tunc earn revocavit in lucem Hippocrates, genitus in insula Coo, in primis 
 clara ac valida, et ./Esculapio dicata. Is, cum fuisset mos, liberatos morbis scribere in 
 templo ejus Dei, quid auxiliatum esset, ut postea similitude- proficeret, exscripsisse ea 
 traditur, atque (ut Varro apnd nos credit) jam templo cremate-, instituisse medicinam 
 banc, quae Clinice vocatur." Plin. Hist. Nat. I. xxix. c. 1. torn. III. p.isy. L. Bat. 1635. 
 
 (2) See the communication made to the author by Mr. Keane, as published in 
 Note (4), p. 193, of the former Section. Second edition. Broxb. 1813. 
 
ISLAND OF COS. 
 
 333 
 
 instantly arrested the father of the young woman, as the chap , vjii. 
 cause, by implication, of the man's death : under the fifth 
 species of homicide, he became therefore amenable for this 
 act of suicide. When the cause came before the Magistrate, 
 it was urged literally by the accusers, that " If he, the 
 accused, had not had a daughter, the deceased would not have 
 fallen in love; consequently he ivould not have been disap- 
 pointed; consequently he would not have stv allowed poison ; con- 
 sequently he would not have died : — but he, the accused, had a 
 daughter; and the deceased had fallen in love; and had been 
 disappointed; and had sivallowed poison; and had died." 
 Upon all these counts, he was called upon to pay the price 
 of the young man's life ; and this, being fixed at the sum 
 of eighty piastres, was accordingly exacted. 
 
 The population of Cos had much diminished of late years. Population, 
 There were formerly 20,000 inhabitants; and of this 
 number only eight or ten thousand now remained. Three 
 thousand had been carried off by a severe plague the year 
 before ; and great numbers had been draughted, to serve 
 as soldiers in the war. The island contains five villages : 
 it produces corn and cattle. Its fine rich grapes were now 
 selling for less than a halfpenny the pound : pomegranates 
 and melons were in great abundance, and of delicious 
 flavour. Its trade consists in the manufacture of barrels, and 
 in the sale of wine, brandy, raisins, lemon-juice, preserved 
 fruit, &c. Corn sold for four piastres and a half the Quilot* : 
 the average price was reckoned at seventy or eighty paras. 
 
 commerce, 
 and produce 
 of Cos. 
 
 (3) The quilot, according to Tournefort, is a measure of three panaches; each 
 panache is eight oques ; and each oque is twenty-five pounds. See Tournef. Voy. du 
 Lev. torn. II. p. 109. Lyon, 1717. 
 

 1 Port ot'Ltv Scala 
 
 2 Port of Sapsila 
 A Port Grieou 
 4 Port Merita 
 
 a Small Western Creek 
 
 6 Port ofDiacvrti 
 
 7 Monistny it Town !>tPi 
 
 8 Cave )t' the Apocuhpsi 
 
 CHAP. IX. 
 
 W^.* 
 
 CHAP. IX. 
 
 COS TO PATMOS. 
 
 Messenger from the Vizier — Botanical discoveries — Casiot vessel — 
 Antient custom of singing Vespers — Leria and Lepsia — Arrival at 
 Patmos — Critical situation of a part of the French army — 
 Monastery of St. John — Library — Ignorance of the Monks — 
 Manuscripts — Discovery of the Patmos Plato — Other valuable Works 
 — Manuscript in the hand-writing of Alexius Comnenus — State of 
 the island — Antient Medals — Extensive prospect — Holy Grotto — 
 Dinner given by the French Officers — Barthelemy — Women of the 
 island — Bells — Stratagem for obtaining the Greek Manuscripts — 
 Fruitless attempt to leave the island — View of Samos — Icafia — 
 Western port of Patmos — Geological phcenome* a — Plants anc 
 animals — Marble Cippi — Departure from Patmos — Prognostics 
 of Greek mariners. 
 
 On Tuesday, October the sixth, as we were sitting with 
 the Governor, a Greek officer of the name of Riley, who hac 
 
 beer 
 

 ISLAND OF COS. 
 
 been interpreter to Colonel, now Sir Charles Holloway, in the 
 Turkish army, arrived from Grand Cairo with dispatches 
 from the Vizier. He brought letters for us from England, 
 which had been sent first to Constantinople, and then to 
 Egypt, and yet reached us with so recent a date as the 
 twelfth of August. When he entered the Governor's 
 apartment, we supposed him to be a Turk : he wore the 
 Turkish habit, and conversed with great fluency in the 
 Turkish language: presently, to our surprise, he addressed us 
 in English ; and afterwards gave us intelligence of all that 
 had happened at Cairo since we left that city. A report 
 had reached him after he sailed from Egypt, that the 
 Vizier had been ordered into exile, to Giddah, where the 
 air is supposed to be so unwholesome, that the punishment 
 of being banished thither is considered as almost equivalent 
 with death. Hearing that we intended to visit Patmos, 
 he requested a passage thither in our vessel : his wife 
 resided upon that island, and it was his wish to see her, 
 in his way to Constantinople. We readily acceded to 
 his proposal; and a very fortunate circumstance it proved, 
 in the services he rendered to us during a negotiation 
 with the Monks of Patmos for the Manuscripts we after- 
 wards obtained. 
 
 We employed the rest of our time principally in botanical 
 excursions, and were very successful ; having found no less 
 than six non-descript species: although, as we mingled all 
 the specimens collected in this island in March with those 
 which we now gathered in October, we cannot precisely 
 state the time when any particular plant came into flower. 
 
 There 
 
 335 
 
 CHAP. IX. 
 
 Messenger 
 from the 
 Vizier. 
 
 Botanical 
 Discoveries. 
 

 336 
 
 CHAP. IX. 
 
 ISLAND OF COS. 
 
 There is, however, reason to believe that they principally 
 belong to the autumnal season ; as our stay was very short in 
 March, and it was before observed that the plants of this 
 island had not then attained a state of maturity 1 . According 
 to our usual plan, we shall only refer the reader now to the 
 new-discovered species ; reserving for a general list, in the 
 Appendix to this Part of our Travels, the names and the 
 localities of others, whether rare or common, which pre- 
 ceding authors have already described*. 
 
 On 
 
 (1) See Chap. VII. of the former Section, p. 205. 
 
 (2) I. A very curious small species of Plantain (Plantago Linn.), of which there is ;a 
 figure and description in Clusius's " Plantarum Rariorum Historia," lib. v. cap. 1(5. 
 under the name of Catanance prima Dioscoridis ; but this has been omitted 
 by Linnaeus, and by all the editors of his works. The whole plant is scarcely an 
 inch and a half in height ; its leaves are of a narrow lance-shape, and ciliated ; 
 the flowers in little round upright heads; and these, together with the short 
 stalks supporting them, are clothed with long soft wool. The species ought to 
 be arranged near the Cretan Plantain (Planlago Cretica), to which it is nearly 
 allied ; but it may be easily distinguished, either by the leaves, or by the heads of 
 the flowers. We have called it Plantago Catananche. Planlago foliis 
 lanceolato-linearihus , ciliatis, pilosis; spied subrotundd erecid, scapo brevissimo 
 bracteisque lanatis. Catanance prima Dioscoridis. Clus. Plant. Rar. Hist. 2. 
 p. 112. cum tabula. 
 
 II. A non-descript species of Crow-foot Ranunculus, with slender erect unbranched 
 stems, and single flowers. We have called it Ranunculus gracilis. Ranun- 
 culus caule simplici, gracili, erecto: foliis radicalibus quinquepartitis tripartitisque, 
 laciniis flab ellif or mibus sinuato-dentatis ; caulinis multipartitis laciniis sublinearibus, 
 glabris. Radices tuberoses, fasciculatce. Folia radicalia circumscriptione cordato 
 subrotundd, diametro pollicario vel parum ultra ; petioli longi, pilosi : folia 
 caulina duo seu tres sessilia, superiora subtrifda. Caulis pedalis, teres, pubescens. 
 Calyx glaber, reflexus. Corolla magnitudine R. repentis, flavd. Petala obovata. 
 III. An elegant non-descript species of Trefoil, (Trifolium Linn.) This we have 
 named Trifolium ornatum. Trifolium annuum, caulibus ramosis sub-erectis. 
 foliolis obovatis argutissime serratis, mucronalis, glabris ; stipulis opposilis ; spicis 
 
 terminalibus, 
 
ISLAND OF COS. 
 
 337 
 
 On Wednesday, October the seventh, our interpreter, 
 Antonio, returned from Budrun with the Governor's chiaoux, 
 
 in 
 
 chap. IX. 
 
 terminalibus , solitariis, subrotundis, last bracteatis, apice sterilibus ; bracteis 
 suboctonis, calycis dentibus subulatis cequalilus. Caules striatl pilosi. Folia 
 striata vix semipollicaria, summa opposita. Petioli partiale* ciliali, i ' revissimi. 
 Spicce pedunculated foliis breviores. Bractitc subcordato-ovatce, nitidce. Calyx 
 corolla dimidio brevior, basin versus pilosus. 
 
 IV. A non-descript herbaceous Milk-wort (Polygala Linn.) with racemes of pale blue 
 flowers. We have called it Polygala adscendens. Poly gala Jlorib us cristatis, 
 racemis axillaribus , pedunculatis ; aliis calycinis corolla breviorilus obiusis nervosis ; 
 caulibus herbaceis adscendentibus ; foliis lanceolatis acutis, inferioribus obovalis 
 ohtusis. Caules quinque ad octo pollices longi, parum ramosi. Folia minute 
 villosa, lineas quinque ad septem longa, inferiora gradatim breviora et obtusiora. 
 Racemi bracteati sex ad decemjlori. Bractece pedicellis longiores, lanceolatce , mox 
 deciduce. Flores P. Sibiricae duplb jnajores, coerulei. 
 V. A non-descript species of Hartwort, (Tordylium Linn.) about a span in height, 
 with leaflets notched at the base, and rounded above with a few blunt teeth on 
 their margin. The Tordylium humile of Mons. Desfontaines is the species which 
 it most resembles ; but from this it dirlers, in not having the leaflets lobed, and 
 by its flowers, which are four times as large as in that species. We have called 
 it Tordylium insulare. Tordylium foliis pinnatis, foliis cordato-subreniformibus 
 inciso-dentatis, petiolis pilosis; involucri folio/is subulatis brevibus subguinis ; 
 involucelli laciniis ciliatis pedicellos excedentibus ; jloribus majusculis ; seminibus 
 crenulatis. 
 
 VI. A very showy non-descript species of Allium ; varying from about ten inches to 
 above two feet in height ; the leaves very thin and delicate, streaked with about 
 twenty parallel lines, and finely fringed ; their breadth from about half an inch to 
 three quarters ; the umbel of the flowers straight 3 nearly hemispherical, with the 
 number of rays varying from eight to about twenty, according to the size and 
 vigour of the plants 3 the petals nearly oval, white. We have called it Allium 
 pulchrum. Allium caule angulato, basifolioso, foliis caule brevioribus lanceolcto- 
 oblongis, sub-planis, margine brevissime ciliatis ; umbella laxa liemispluericd ; 
 petalis ovalibus staminibus simplicibus longioribus, majusculis ; spatha monophylld 
 ventricosd acunnnalo-subrotundd. This species is allied to the Allium Neapolitanum 
 of Cyrilli ; to the Allium subhirsutum of Linnaeus ; and to the Allium ciliatum 
 of Curtis and Sims. From the first it differs in the form of the umbel, which at 
 once distinguishes it : from the two last the difference consists in the form of the 
 leaves, the few rays which are found in the umbel, the simple sheath, and the 
 lame blossoms. 
 
 VOL. III. 
 
 2 X 
 
i^v'-V-Tv^VN^'v-rH-V''^-, 1 y?^v.N^^*fV> ■^M/^Ys'ffcW. *T» 
 
 
 338 ' . COS TO PATMOS. 
 
 chap. ix. in a small caique, manned by a single family of the Island 
 casiot vessel, of Casos, consisting of four individuals ; viz. a young 
 widower, his son, his brother, and a very oid man his uncle. 
 Antonio had found no vessel that would suit us in the port of 
 Budrun ; and was returning in the open boat which conveyed 
 him, when, coming from the harbour, he beheld the Casiot 
 bark, coasting slowly eastward, and within hail. Having 
 boarded this vessel, he found that it was empty, returning 
 to Casos for want of a freight. He easily prevailed upon the 
 poor Casiots to steer for Stanchio, in the hope of being 
 hired by us, and we very gladly availed ourselves of the 
 opportunity. The vessel was old, and the large triangular 
 sails were tattered and rotten. It was, in fact, nothing 
 more than an open boat; a man of middle stature, standing 
 in the hatchway with his feet in the hold, had at least 
 the half of his body above the deck : it was impossible 
 therefore to contrive any thing like a cabin in which to 
 stand upright; but by clearing and cleansing this place, we 
 found we could obtain a shelter for the night, and during 
 the day we should of course prefer being upon the deck. 
 Landsmen in harbour, especially during fine weather, are 
 . easily reconciled to all chances in preparing to go to sea : 
 without further consideration, we hired this vessel, at the 
 rate of four hundred and fifty piastres per month, engaging 
 to find our own provisions, and having the crew to provide 
 for themselves. They fell to work briskly, preparing their 
 vessel for our reception ; and by the next evening, at sunset, 
 having every thing necessary on board, we were desired to 
 embark. Mr. Riley went with us to take leave of the 
 
 Governor, 
 
COS TO PATMOS. 339 
 
 Governor, from whom we had experienced great kindness t CHAP. ix. 
 
 and civility: the Greek Bishop, and the worthy French 
 
 Consul, accompanying us to the shore, and taking leave of us 
 
 upon the deck of our little bark. At eight o'clock we were 
 
 under weigh : a land breeze drove us smoothly along; and 
 
 the Casiots began their evening hymn. This reminded us of Antient 
 
 . Custom of 
 
 a passage in Lo??gus , who, in the very seas we were now 
 traversing, describes a similar custom : " While they rowed, 
 " one of the crew sang to them ; the rest, as a chorus, at inter* 
 " vols joined ivith him*." The Venetian sailors have a hymn 
 which they sing exactly after the same manner, the crew 
 being all upon deck at the time, and upon their knees 3 . 
 It is, in fact, a very antient custom, and it is still common 
 all over the Mediterranean. 
 
 The 
 
 singing 
 Vespers. 
 
 (1) Longus, lib. Hi. Paris, 1778. 
 
 (2) Ol Be Xoirroi, Kaddmp ^opo<;, 6/j.0([>g)i>ch- 
 
 Kara Kaipov r>;c eksipov (JHovr/c cfiouv. Ibid. 
 
 (3) We have preserved the words of a Venetian Hymn, as we heard it sung every 
 evening, when the weather permitted, in the Black Sea, on board the Venetian brig in 
 which we sailed from Russia for Constantinople : 
 
 " O santa Barbara, nostra avocata ! 
 Che sei inadre de la Maria, 
 Questa nave, i'artilleria, 
 Sempre da voi lascia guardata ! 
 
 Chor. O Santa Barbara .' ifc. 
 
 " O santissinio Sacramento ! 
 
 Jesu Christo, nostro signore ! 
 Qui ehe guarda tutti l'hore ! 
 Qui che salva ogni moraento ! 
 
 Ciiok. O Santissimo .' Sfc." 
 

 
 340 
 
 CHAP. IX. 
 Leria. 
 
 COS TO PATMOS. 
 
 The next morning, October the ninth, we found ourselves 
 
 to be opposite to the small Isle of Leria, bearing s. w. and 
 
 by w. distant eight miles, the wind being tranquil, and the 
 
 sea calm 1 . We saw the monastery and town of Lera, as 
 
 it is now called. 
 
 This little island has three harbours, and it is said by 
 
 Dapper to produce abundance of the wood of aloes, so 
 
 much esteemed in Turkey as a perfume 2 . Dapper's assertion 
 
 may be doubted ; for the enormous price of this wood at 
 
 Constantinople seems to prove that it is not found abundantly 
 
 anvwhere so near to that city. The character of the antient 
 
 inhabitants of Leria, who were originally a Milesian colony', 
 
 gave rise to the very antient epigram of Phocylides, so often 
 
 in after ages parodied and imitated, but perhaps never with 
 
 more success than by our illustrious countryman, Porson 4 : 
 
 Ka) roos t&axvXidiaj' A&gioi Kattoi' a^ o y^v, og o ov' 
 
 Ylccvreg, tXtji* UgoxXexg' xai W^oTtXirig Aegiog. 
 
 At 
 
 (1) "Lera is nine leagues n.w. and by w. from Slanchio." Perry's View of the 
 Othoman Empire, p. 482. Lond. 1743. 
 
 (2) Dapper Description des Isles de l'Archipel. p. 183. Amst. 1703. 
 
 (3) Strabon. Geog. lib.xiv. p. 910. Oxon. I8O7. Strabo writes the name of this; 
 island both Aipiu and Aepos. 
 
 (4) In the following Epigram upon the Greek scholars of Germany, which the; 
 author has transcribed from his own hand-writing. 
 
 Kr/iSec ec-re fierpuifj, u> leuToyt c, oux 5 Mf(J> *oc 8' o J' 
 ria'/zTec, 7r\i;v CPMANNOC o £' tzpnappoc c<p6£pa Ttiiruip. 
 
 The Germans in Greek 
 Are sadly to seek, 
 Not five in five score, 
 But ninety-five more : 
 All, save only Herman, 
 And Herntaii's a German. 
 
ISLAND OF PATMOS. 
 
 341 
 
 CHAP. IX. 
 
 Patmos. 
 
 At half past eight a. m. we made the Island of Patmos 5 ; 
 and afterwards passing between Leria and Lcpsia, Samos 
 appeared most beautifully in view, covered by a silvery 
 mist, softening every object, but concealing none. Lcpsia 
 is now called Lipso. At eleven o'clock a.m. we entered 
 the port of La Scala 6 , in Patmos. We were surprised by Arrival at 
 meeting several boats filled with French soldiers, fishing. 
 In order to prevent our caique from being fired at, as a 
 pirate vessel (which she much resembled, and probably 
 had been), we had hoisted an English flag given to us by 
 Captain Clarke, and recommended for our use in the Archi- 
 pelago. The Frenchmen, seeing this proud distinction upon 
 our humble skiff, called out, by way of taunt, " fbila un beau 
 venez-y voir! Le Pavilion Anglois ! Trcmblez Messieurs /" 
 They were much too numerous to venture a reply, if we had 
 been so disposed ; and as soon as we landed, we found the 
 quay covered with French privates, among whom were some 
 of the inferior officers of the French army. These men were 
 a part of the army which had surrendered to our troops in 
 Egypt, on their passage to France. The transport hired for 
 their conveyance was commanded by an Algerine : this 
 man had put into Patmos, under the pretence of careening his 
 vessel ; saying that it was unsafe to continue the voyage until 
 this had been done; but it was feared that he intended 
 
 to 
 
 (5) " Patmos is six leagues from Lera, n. w. by n." Perry's View of the Levant, 
 p. 483. Lond. 1743. 
 
 (6) Dapper says it received the name of La Scala from the quay which has been 
 constructed here; but it may have been so called from the steep ascent to the monastery 
 which begins at the landing-place of this harbour. 
 
-Jp;/-.J I ■ ■ 
 
 
 342 
 
 CHAP. IX. 
 
 Critical situa- 
 tion of a part 
 of the French 
 armv. 
 
 ISLAND OF PATMOS. 
 
 to seize an opportunity, after landing these Frenchmen, 
 to escape with the ship and all the booty on board. 
 We had been but a short time on shore, when a petition 
 was brought to us signed by the French officers, stating 
 their fears, and begging that we would represent their case to 
 our Minister at Constantinople. They said they had already 
 removed their trunks, and were resolved to return no more 
 on board the Algerine ; the rascally Captain having twice 
 attempted to poison their food. All this was uttered in a 
 very different sort of tone from that in which we had 
 been hailed upon our coming into the harbour, and we 
 entered warmly into their cause. Their situation was, to 
 be sure, critical. They had property belonging to some of 
 the French Generals, besides their own effects ; and all the 
 cases containing these things were lying upon the open quay. 
 They were forced to appoint a regular guard, day and night; 
 hourly dreading, as they told us, a visit from some of the 
 numerous pirates which swarm around Patmos 1 : besides all 
 this, the mutinous behaviour of their own men made it 
 impossible for them to rely even upon the sentinels set over 
 the baggage, for they were constantly in a state of intoxication 
 with the wine of the island. As Mr. Riley was going to 
 Constantinople, we wrote to the British Ambassador, briefly 
 explaining the event that had taken place : and our letter, 
 
 as 
 
 (1) Patmos has always been exposed to the attacks of pirates. Tournefort relates, 
 that the town was formerly in the port of La Scala ; hut that the pirates compelled it> 
 inhabitants to abandon it, and to retire to the heights where it is now situated, close to 
 ihe Monastery of St. John. 
 
ISLAND OF PATMOS. 
 
 343 
 
 as we were afterwards told, procured them another ship. 
 In the mean time, it was necessary to take some immediate 
 step for the security of their baggage. For this purpose 
 we proposed making an application to the monks of the 
 Monastery of the Apocalypse, which is situated two miles and a 
 half from the quay, upon the top of a mountain, in the highest 
 part of all the island, close to the town of Patmos. Here 
 it mio-ht be secure from pirates ; for the building is strongly 
 fortified, and it is proof against any attack of that nature 2 . 
 A commissary of the French army proposed to accompany us 
 upon this expedition ; and, as the plan was highly approved, 
 we set off without further delay for the Convent. The ascent 
 is steep and rugged, but practicable for asses and mules ; and 
 upon the backs of these animals we proposed to convey the 
 trunks. When we arrived at the Monastery, we were quite 
 struck by its size and substantial appearance. It is a very 
 powerful fortress, built upon a steep rock, with several towers 
 and lofty thick walls ; and if duly mounted with guns, might 
 be made impregnable. According to Tournefort, it is said 
 to have been founded by Alexius Comnenus, in consequence 
 of the persuasion of St. Christodulus 3 ; but Dapper relates, 
 that the saint himself founded the Monastery, having 
 
 obtained 
 
 CHAP IX. 
 
 Monastery of 
 St. John. 
 
 (2) " Palmosa, Patmo anticamente detta, insula pesta nell'Arcipelago : sopra 
 loqnale : S. Joannis Evangelista scrisse il sacro Apocalypsi : essendo stato ma'ndato in 
 exilio da Domitiano Imperat. In memoria delquale, un bellissimo Monasterio del suo 
 nome, da suui Discipoli fu fabricate) : et da caloiri hora habitato : conservnndosi da 
 corsari essere otfeso." Martin. Cms. Turco-Grcecia, lib. iv. p. 302. Annot. Epist. 
 Macar. Basil, sine anno. 
 
 (3) Voyage du Levant, torn. II. p. 141. Lyon, 1717- 
 

 
 344 ISLAND OF PATMOS. 
 
 v CHAPIX - / obtained permission to this effect from Alexius, towards ttie 
 end of the tenth century, when he retired to Patmos, to 
 avoid the persecution of the Turks 1 . St. Christodulus had 
 been Abbot of Latros, a day and a half's journey from 
 Ephesus, where he presided over twenty convents 2 . We 
 were received by the Superior and by the Bursar of the 
 Monastery, in the Refectory. Having made known the cause 
 of our coming, we presented to them our circular letter 
 from the Capudan Pasha: this being written in Turkish, 
 was interpreted by Mr. Riley. After a short consultation, 
 they acquiesced in the proposal made for the French officers ; 
 and agreed to receive the whole of the baggage at the quay, 
 within their walls ; also a single officer to superintend the 
 care of it, until a vessel should arrive from Constantinople, 
 or from Smyrna, for its removal. This business being 
 settled, we asked, permission to see the Library, which 
 was readily granted ; and while the French Commissary 
 went into the town to hire some mules, the two Caloyers, by 
 whom we had been received, conducted us thither. 
 Library. ^ e entered a small oblong chamber, having a vaulted 
 
 stone roof; and found it to be nearly filled with books, of 
 all sizes, in a most neglected state ; some lying upon the 
 floor, a prey to the damp and to worms ; others standing 
 upon shelves, but without any kind of order. The 
 books upon the shelves were all printed volumes ; for 
 these, being more modern, were regarded as the more 
 
 valuable, 
 
 (1) Dapper. Descr. des Isles de l'Archipel. p. 181. Arnst. 1/03. 
 
 (2) Ibid. 
 
ISLAND OF PATMOS. 
 
 345 
 
 CHAP. IX. 
 
 valuable, and had a better station assigned them than the rest, 
 many of which were considered only as so much rubbish. 
 Some of the printed books were tolerably well bound, and in 
 good condition. The Superior said they were his favourites; 
 but when we took down one or two of them to examine their 
 contents, we discovered that neither the Superior nor his ^""ceor 
 
 the Monks. 
 
 colleague were able to read 3 . They had a confused tradi- 
 tionary recollection of the names of some of them, but knew 
 no more of their contents than the Grand Signiqr. We saw 
 here the first edition of the Anthologia, in quarto, printed at 
 Florence, in capital letters, a.d. mccccxciv. a beautiful copy. 
 At the extremity of this chamber, which is opposite to 
 the window, a considerable number of old volumes of 
 parchment, some with covers and some without, were 
 heaped upon the floor in the utmost disorder; and there 
 were evident proofs that these had been cast aside, and con- 
 demned to answer any purpose for which the parchment 
 might be required. When we asked the Superior what they 
 were ? he replied, turning up his nose with an expression of 
 indifference and contempt, XeigoygaQu ! It was indeed a Manuscripts, 
 moment in which a literary traveller might be supposed to 
 doubt the evidence of his senses, for the whole of this 
 
 contemned 
 
 (3) Mons. De Choiseul-Gouffier (Voyage Pittoresque de la Grece, torn. I. p. 103.) 
 found only three monks in Patrnos who knew how to read. Sonnini speaks of their 
 extraordinary ignorance ; but he is mistaken when he affirms that they have no library. 
 " There is no library," says he, " in the Convent: and of what utility would it be among 
 people who, for the most part, cannot read." See Sonnini's Travels in Greece, &c 
 ch. 36. p. 473. Lond. 1801. 
 
 VOL. III. 
 
 2 Y 
 

 
 346 
 
 CHAP. IX. 
 
 ISLAND OF PATMOS. 
 
 contemned heap consisted entirely of Greek manuscripts, and 
 some of them were of the highest antiquity. We sought in 
 vain for the Manuscript of Homer, said to have been copied 
 by a student from Cos, and alluded to upon a former occa- 
 sion l . We even ventured to ask the ignorant monks, if they 
 had ever heard of the existence of such a relique in their 
 library. The Bursar 2 maintained that he had, and that he 
 should know the Manuscript if he saw it 3 . Presently he 
 
 produced 
 
 (1) See the former Section, Chap. XI. p. 210. 
 
 (2) Paul Ricaut has well described the state in which we found the Patmos 
 Library j and also mentions this office of Bursar, whose business it is to take care of 
 the books. " Every monastery hath its library of books, which are kept in a lofty 
 tower under the custody of one whom they call lKevotj)v\aKa, who is also their 
 steward, receives their money, and renders an account of all their expenses : but we 
 must not imagine that these libraries are conserved in that order as ours are in the 
 Darts of Christendom ; that they are ranked and compiled in method on shelves, with 
 labels of the contents ; or that they are brushed and kept clean, like the libraries of our 
 Colleges : but they are piled one on the other, without order or method, covered with 
 dust, and exposed to the worm." Ricaut's State of the Greek and Armenian Churches, 
 p. 260. Lond. 1679. 
 
 (3) This Manuscript was afterwards discovered by Mr. Walpole in the hands of 
 a schoolmaster, at the Grotto of the Apocalypse, below the Monastery. Mr. Walpole's 
 observations upon this Library are particularly interesting 5 because they prove that one 
 of the Manuscripts brought away by the author was known to Villoison ; and that the 
 removal of the rest had excited some sensation in Greece, as appears by the inscription 
 over the door. 
 
 " There was at Patmos, for many years, a school frequented by the modern Greeks, 
 
 which possessed a higher reputation than any other in the Levant. This has now 
 
 yielded the pre-eminence to one established at Kidoniais, near Smyrna. A Greek in 
 
 the Island of Antiparos, who accompanied us to the grotto there, told me he had been 
 
 educated at Patmos j and repeated to me the beginning of the Romance of the 
 
 JEthiopics of Heliodorus. During our stay at Patmos we visited the lower Monastery, 
 
 where the grotto is shewn in which St. John wrote the Apocalypse; it is called 
 
 QeooKryvofrri. Here is also a small school: we found the schoolmaster reading a 
 
 manuscript Homer, with some notes ; it was written on paper ; and did not appear ot 
 
 great date. m , 
 
 * " The 
 
ISLAND OF PATMOS. 
 
 produced from the heap the volume he pretended to recog- 
 nise: it was a copy of the Poems of Gregory of Nazianzen, 
 written upon vellum, evidently as old as the ninth century. 
 The cover and some of the outer leaves had been torn off; 
 but the rest was perfect. The ink had become red ; a 
 
 circumstance 
 
 " The Monastery on the summit of the island is a very handsome building : from 
 it, we had a most extensive view over the Archipelago, and some of the Greek islands. 
 In the two visits I made to Patmos, I was not permitted to examine, as I wished, the 
 collection of books and papers in the Library of the Monastery of St. John. There was 
 no Greek in the place from whom I could obtain any satisfactory information. On the 
 shelves, in compartments, are arranged Theological works : these Villoison, in his visit 
 to the island, found less injured than the manuscripts of classical writers. The monks 
 told him, that, twenty years before his arrival, they had burnt from two to three thousand 
 manuscripts ; duo vel tria millia circiter codicum comlwssisse. Of these reliquice 
 Danaum, a copy of the Lexicon of Cyrill had escaped the flames, and was preserved 
 by the Abbot. 
 
 " On one side of the Library is a confused heap of what appears, for the most part, 
 to be manuscript, consisting both of vellum and paper. Here, if an accurate search 
 were made, might be found probably many literary fragments of importance. Over 
 the door of the Library are the following lines ; intended, doubtless, for hexameter verses : 
 they were placed there, as the date informs us, in 1802. 
 
 Aevp', "Ayep, keivtcu oaai (batival y^tipoypatboi /3</3\o«, 
 'AvSpl pu (j)cprtpat itivvtu yjpvalov SoKtovcrai' 
 Tour dpa Ttjpee (pv\a^ trtio fxaXKov fitoroio, 
 Tgji> cjo'jUOc ovvEKa oe vvv roc yiva.ro <p£yyo'/3o\oc y£. 
 brl ETOVS A«/)' Mtjvoi; A.VyOV(TTOV. 
 
 " In this place are lying whatever manuscripts there are of note : MORE 
 
 ESTIMABLE ARE THEY TO A WISE MAN THAN GOLD : GUARD THEM, THEREFORE, 
 WATCHFULLY, MORE THAN YOUR LIFE; FOR ON THEIR ACtOUNT IS THIS MONASTERY 
 NOW BECOME CONSPICUOUS. In THE MONTH AUGUST, THE YEAR 1802." 
 
 JValpole's MS. Journal. 
 
 The inscription over the door of the Library has been added since the author's visit; 
 
 and the Lexicon of Cyrill, mentioned by Villoison, is the identical Codex he bought of 
 
 the Superior, and brought away. For a more detailed account of the MSS. of Greece, 
 
 the Reader is referred to some remarks by Mr. Walpole, in the beginning of this Section. 
 

 K.V— X4 -^• 1 *-v4r-\ -£*■. !»;■• iv^it ■ 
 
 ^,»3rt^Kv»irt,7..ir>^ir.-w.-ii«i* r s*-i.jff.^-,X'<»»r.-' .**■'»->«*;,< 
 
 348 
 
 CHAP. IX. 
 
 Discovery of 
 the Patmot 
 Plato. 
 
 ISLAND OF PATMOS. 
 
 circumstance alluded to by Montfaucon in ascertaining the 
 age of Greek Manuscripts ; and the writing throughout 
 matnifested an equal degree of antiquity 1 . What was to be 
 done? To betray any extraordinary desire to get possession 
 of these treasures would inevitably prevent all possibility of 
 obtaining any of them. We referred the matter to Mr. Riley, 
 as to a person habituated in dealing with knavish Greeks ; 
 and presently such a jabbering took place, accompanied 
 with so many significant shrugs, winks, nods, and grimaces, 
 that it was plain something like a negotiation was going 
 on. The author, meanwhile, continued to inspect the heap ; 
 and had soon selected the fairest specimen of Grecian calli- 
 graphy which has descended to modern times. It was a 
 copy of the twenty-four first Dialogues of Plato, written 
 throughout upon vellum, in the same exquisite character, 
 concluding with a date, and the name of the calligraphist. 
 The whole of this could not be ascertained at the instant' 2 . 
 
 It 
 
 (1) " Quod autem jam in vetustioribus manuscripts Graecis conspicimus atramentum, 
 a prisco nigrore multum recessit : nee tamen omnino flavum languidumque evasit ; sed 
 fulvum rutilumque manet, ut persaepe a minii colore non multum recedat. Id autem 
 observes in Codicibus permultis a quarto ad duodecimum usque saeculum." Montfaucon. 
 Palceog. Grcec. lib.i. c. 1. p. 2. Paris, 1708. 
 
 (2) This Manuscript, after the author's return to England, remained in the hands 
 of his friend, the late Professor Porson, until his death. It is now, with the other MSS. 
 from Patmos, 8cc. in the Bodleian Library at Oxford. For further particulars concerning 
 it, the reader is therefore referred to the Catalogue of all the MSS. brought from 
 Greece by the author, written by the celebrated Professor Gaisford, and printed at the 
 Clarendon Press in 1812; a work which has impressed every scholar with the most 
 profound admiration of the writer's learning and great critical acumen. Reference may 
 also be made to the observations of one, who could best have appretiated Professor 
 Gaisford's surprising talents; namely, of the illustrious Porson himself; as they are 
 now published in his Adversaria, by his successor Professor Monk, and the Rev. Charles 
 
 Blomfield : 
 
ISLAND OF PATMOS. 
 
 349 
 
 It was a single volume in folio, bound in wood. The cover ^hap.ix. 
 was full of worms, and falling to pieces : a paper label 
 appeared at the back, inscribed, in a modern hand, AtuXoyoi 
 ^■jjKidrovg : but the letters of Plato's name, separated by 
 stars, appeared very distinctly as a head-piece to the first 
 page of the Manuscript, in this manner : 
 
 n#A*A#T*n#N#»o#c 
 
 A postscript at the end of the volume stated that the 
 Manuscript had been " ivritten by John the Calligraphist, for 
 " Arethas, Dean of Pat tee, in the month of November 896, 
 " the 14. year of the Indiction, and 6404. year of the world, in 
 " the reign of Leo son of Basilius, for the sum of thirteen 
 " Byzantine Nummi," about eight guineas of our money. 
 The Manuscript mentioned by Dorville on Chariton 3 is one 
 year older. 
 
 The author afterwards discovered a Lexicon of St. Cyrill Discovery of 
 
 r . . , . . . . , . other valuable 
 
 of Alexandria, written upon paper, without any date, and mss. 
 contained in a volume of Miscellanies. He also found two 
 small volumes of the Psalms and of Greek Hymns, accom- 
 panied by unknown characters, serving as antient Greek 
 
 musical 
 
 Blomfielcl j the learned editors respectively of Euripides and of ./Eschylus. To 
 mention every person who has contributed to the celebrity of this inestimable volume, 
 would be to enumerate the names of almost all the eminent Greek scholars in the kingdom. 
 Of the importance of the marginal notes, and the curious fragments they contained from 
 Greek. Plays that are lost, together with a variety of particulars relating to the other 
 Manuscripts here mentioned, the author does not intend to add a syllable : it were pre- 
 sumptive and superfluous to do so, after the observations already published upon the 
 subject. His only aim is, to give a general narrative of the manner in which he succeeded 
 in rescuing the-e Manuscripts from rottenness and certain destruction in the Monastery. 
 (3) See Dorville on Chariton, pp. 49, 50. 
 

 ISLAND OF PATMOS. 
 
 musical notes. They are the same which the Abbe Barthelemy 
 and other writers have noticed ; but their history has never 
 been illustrated. Besides these, he observed, in a Manuscript 
 of very diminutive size, the curious work of Phile upon 
 Animals 1 , containing an account of the Ibis, bound up with 
 twenty- three other Tracts upon a great variety of subjects*. 
 After removing these volumes from a quantity of theological 
 writings, detached fragments, worm-eaten wooden covers 
 (that had belonged to books once literally bound in boards), 
 scraps of parchment, Lives of Hermits, and other litter, all 
 further inquiry was stopped by the promptitude and caution 
 of Mr. Riley, who told us the Superior had agreed to sell the 
 few articles we had selected, but that it would be impos- 
 sible to purchase more; and that even these would be lost, if 
 we ventured to expose them to the observation of any of the 
 inhabitants of the town. Then telling us what sum he had 
 agreed to give for them, he concealed two of the smaller 
 volumes in the folds of his Turkish habit, entrusting to 
 the honour of the two Caloyers the task of conveying the 
 others on board our vessel in the harbour. Upon this 
 honour, it must be confessed, we did not rely with so much 
 confidence as we ought to have done ; but as there was no 
 other method which promised any chance of success, we 
 were forced to comply; and we left, as we believed, the 
 most valuable part of our acquisition in very doubtful 
 hands. Just as we had concluded this bargain, the French 
 
 Commis- 
 
 (1) ToV QlXt) 7TCpl (uu>V ici(JTl]TO<; Old (TTIJ^UV. 
 
 (2) See Professor Gaisford's " Catalogus sive Notitm Manuscriplorum" &c. p. 62. 
 Ozon. 1812. 
 
ISLAND OF PATMOS. 
 
 35] 
 
 Commissary returned; and finding us busied in the Library, ^chap.ix. 
 afforded an amusing specimen of the sort of system pursued 
 by his countrymen, upon such occasions. " Do you find," 
 said he, " anything worth your notice, among all this 
 rubbish ?" We answered, that there were many things we 
 would gladly purchase. '" Purchase !" he added, " I should 
 never think of purchasing from such a herd of swine: if I 
 saw anything I might require, I should, without ceremony, 
 put it in my pocket, and say, Bon jour /" 
 
 After this, some keys were produced, belonging to an 
 old 1 chest that stood opposite to the door of the Library; 
 and we were shewn a few antiquities which the monks had 
 been taught to consider as valuable. Among these, the first 
 thine: they shewed to us was an original Letter from the Manuscript 
 
 o J in the hand- 
 
 Empekor Alexius Comnenus, concerning the establishment writing of 
 
 ° Alex-ius 
 
 of their Monastery, inscribed upon a large roll, and precisely comnenus. 
 corresponding, in the style of the manuscript, with the 
 fragment preserved by Montfaucon in his Palaeographia 3 . 
 Besides this were other rolls of record, the deeds of suc- 
 ceeding Emperors, with their seals affixed, relating to the 
 affairs of the Convent. We calculated the number of 
 volumes in the Library to be about a thousand; and of this 
 number above two hundred were in manuscript. After we 
 had left the Library, we saw upon a shelf in the Refectory 
 
 the 
 
 (3) " Impkratoris GrjECi Epistolte Insigne Fragmentum." See Montfaucon, 
 Palceog. Grccc. p. 266. Paris, 1708. This Epistle is believed by Montfaucon (from the 
 remains of the signature * * * * tantinus) to have been written in the ninth century, 
 by Constantinus Copronymus, to Pepin, the French king. The style of the writing very 
 much resembles that which is now lying in the Library at Patmos. 
 

 i^tCoK-yn <*,«ic.;.'aM 
 
 CHAP. IX. 
 
 State of 
 Island. 
 
 352 ISLAND OF PATMOS. 
 
 the most splendid Manuscript of the whole collection, in. 
 two folio volumes, richly adorned : it was called the 
 Theology of Gregory of Nazianzen ', and purported to be 
 throughout in the hand-writing of the Emperor Alexius 2 . 
 Nothing could be more beautiful. As a singular circum- 
 stance, it may also be mentioned, that we saw upon the same 
 shelf, and by the side of this, a Manuscript of the writings of 
 Gregory's greatest admirer, Erasmus. 
 
 The Capudan Pasha's letter enabled us to order bread 
 from the island for our voyage ; and this the monks promised 
 the to see provided. The inhabitants import wheat from the 
 Black Sea ; and they have twelve small vessels engaged in 
 commerce, with which they trade to different ports in the 
 Euxine and to the Adriatic, bringing corn for their own 
 use, and also carrying it as far as Ancona in Italy. In 
 Tournefort's time there were hardly three hundred men upon 
 the island, and at least twenty women to one man. The 
 population remains nearly the same as it was when 
 he wrote ; for, as it is observed by Sonnini 5 , " While the 
 
 monasteries 
 
 (1) Cave mentions a work of Gregorius Nazianzenus under this title : " De Theo- 
 logid Orationes V. contra Eunomianos et Macedonianos :" (see Scriptor. Ecclesiast. 
 Hist. Lit. Sceculum Arianum, p. 200. Lond. 1688.) but the Patmos MS. being in two 
 large folio volumes, in all probability contains other of Gregory's writings. 
 
 (2) This MS. is noticed in the Patmos Catalogue (See the beginning of this 
 Section); and the same circumstance is related of the hand-writing of the Emperor 
 Alexius: it is there called, in modern Greek, " J work of Gregory the Theologian, 
 which is in the hand-writing of the Emperor Alexius Comnenus ; his own hand-writing ." 
 Tpnyopiov tov dioXoyov tva fitfiXiov to oiroiov tlvai ypct\hifiov tov fiatnXcuc 'AXetyov 
 tov Kofiptjvov, tov iSiov ypdiptfiov. There Were, however, tv/o Calligr aphis ts of this 
 name Alexius; the one wrote the Lives of the Saints in 1292; the other, a MS. of 
 Hippocrates in the fourteenth century. See Montfaucon, Pal. Gr. lib.'x.p.QA. Par. 1708. 
 
 (3) Travels in Greece, &c. p. 473. Lond. 1801. 
 
ISLAND OF PATMOS 
 
 353 
 
 monasteries swarm with sluggards, the fields become 
 deserts;" and population is consequently diminished. Yet, 
 in the neighbouring isles, Patmos is described as the 
 University of the Archipelago : it is hither that the Greek 
 families send their sons to be educated, by a set of monks 
 unable to read their own, or any other language. After 
 we left the Monastery, we paid a visit to Mr. Antonio 
 Gilly, the Prussian Consul, of whom we purchased several 
 Greek medals. Among these, were a bronze medal of 
 Eleusis, representing Ceres in her car, drawn by two 
 serpents, with a sow on the reverse; and two beautiful 
 gold medals of Lysimachus and of Philip, in as high 
 a state of preservation as if they had been just issued 
 from the mint. The freshness of their appearance 
 might induce a suspicion of their being a modern 
 fabrication, if it were not a well-known fact that to 
 imitate the best coinage of Thrace and Macedonia is 
 impossible ; and therefore in such cases we may defy 
 imposture. The present price of Greek medals, through- 
 out the Levant, is generally the same; unless they be 
 found, as it sometimes happens, in the hands of trading 
 antiquaries and ignorant pretenders to a knowledge of 
 antiquity, when the most absurd and exorbitant terms 
 are set upon them. The usual rate of selling them, 
 among the poor artificers in gold and silver found in 
 almost all the towns, is this : for gold medals, twice 
 their weight in Venetian sequins; for silver, from two 
 plasties to five, or six, according to the size ; and for 
 vol. in. 2 z bronze, 
 
 CHAP. IX. 
 
 Antient 
 Medals. 
 
354 
 
 CHAP. IX. 
 
 ISLAND OF PATMOS. 
 
 bronze', about a para for each medal. Hence it must 
 be evident that, with the exception of the silver (which are 
 generally of the highest antiquity, and always estimated 
 below their present price in England), the medals of Greece 
 may be purchased cheaper in London than in the Levant. 
 Indeed, the Grecian copper coinage is now considered as 
 being of such modern date, that it is little valued by 
 collectors of Greek medals 2 . Roman copper is found in 
 great abundance ; and among this may be easily obtained 
 many rare and valuable coins, illustrating the history of 
 Grecian cities, where no medals were struck during the period 
 in which they were governed by their own laws. No medal 
 of Patmos has been discovered; neither is it likely that any 
 ever did exist, as the island was hardly inhabited when 
 the Romans made it a place of exile. The gold medals sold 
 to us by the Prussian Consul were, in all probability, not 
 found upon the island, but brought by its trading vessels: 
 it is a common occurrence to meet with such antiquities in 
 the hands of Greek sailors, who collect them for sale. The 
 medal of Lysimachus exhibited, as usual, a fine portrait of 
 the deified Alexander; whose image, " expressed on gold or 
 
 silver." 
 
 (1) The author has generally used the word bronze instead of brass, as applied to 
 Grecian antiquities ; and for this reason : antient bronze consists of copper containhg 
 about ten per cent, of tin, and therefore differs from brass which is a compound of 
 copper and zinc; but whether the constituents of antient bronze be found in the Grecitn 
 copper coinage has not perhaps been determined. 
 
 (2) It has been sold in London for a price equivalent to the weight of the metal. 
 
ISLAND OF PATMOS. 
 
 355 
 
 silver," was so long considered as propitious to its possessor*. 
 Concerning the medals of Lysimachus, and this image, the 
 author must refer to a former work, rather than repeat 
 what has been already published 4 ; but with regard to the 
 gold medals of Philip, bearing the legend <t>IA!PPOY, so much 
 doubt has generally prevailed, that it may be proper to add 
 a few^ words upon the subject. It has been usual to attribute 
 them to Philip the Second, the father of Alexander the 
 Great, simply from the circumstance of the gold mines 
 discovered during his time, and of which he was the possessor*. 
 There is, however, much greater probability that they were 
 struck during the reign of Philip Arid^eus, and for the 
 following reasons: first, that some of them have the legend 
 BAXIAEnX4>IAIPPOY, a title not found upon Greek medals 
 before the time of Alexander the Great 6 ; secondly, that in these 
 medals the art of coining was carried to a degree of per- 
 fection unknown in any former period, and to which it never 
 afterwards attained. The medals of the Macedonian kings 
 before the age of Alexander have no resemblance, whether 
 in form, in weight, in substance, or in the style of their 
 fabrication, to those which bear the name of Philip : the 
 
 onlv 
 
 chap. ix. 
 
 (3) " Dicuntur juvari in omni actu suo qui Alexandrum expressum vel auro gestitant 
 vel argento." Trebell. Pollio, Quiet, xiii. p. IO9O. Hist. Rom. Script, upud H. Steph. 
 1568. 
 
 (4) See " Tomb of Alexander:' Camb. 1805. 
 
 (5) Pellerin Recueil de Medailles de Rois, p. 9. Paris, 1?62. 
 
 (6) Hardouin and Froelich ascribed all the medals with this legend to Philip 
 Aridaeus. Eckhel maintained a different opinion. See Doctrina Num. Vet. Pars I. 
 vol. II. p. 94. Vindohon. 1/94. 
 

 
 ■ 
 
 
 ^5g ISLAND OF PATMOS. 
 
 chap. ix. only examples to be compared with them, in relative beauty 
 and perfection of workmanship, are the medals of Lysimachus ; 
 and even these are in a certain degree inferior. Many of 
 the medals of Alexander the Great, although remarkable for 
 boldness of execution and for the sharpness of the die, do yet 
 betray something of the rude style discernible in the coinage 
 of his predecessors, although the art was subsequently carried 
 to such an extraordinary point of perfection during the 
 reigns of Lysimachus and of Philip Aridaeus. In order to 
 form a correct opinion upon this subject, and to be convinced 
 that the gold coinage now alluded to did not belong to the 
 age of Philip the Second, something more is requisite than 
 the examination of a particular medal: it is necessary to 
 view the whole series of the coins of the Macedonian 
 kings, and, by observing the changes introduced into their 
 mint, to become acquainted with the style which denoted 
 the progress of the art at any particular period ; from the 
 unfigured reverses and indented squares of Alexander the 
 First and of Archelaiis, struck nearly five centuries before 
 the Christian aera, to the exquisite perfection of design 
 and the elegant fabrication, visible in the medals of 
 Macedon and Thrace, under the immediate successors of 
 Alexander the Great. 
 
 A few of the inhabitants came to the Consul's house to 
 see us. Nothing can be more remarkable than the situation 
 of the town, built upon the edge of a vast crater sloping 
 off on either side like the roof of a tiled house. Perry 
 has compared it to " an asses back;" upon the highest ridge 
 
 of 
 
ISLAND OF PATMOS. 
 
 357 
 
 CHAP. IX. 
 
 Extensive 
 prospect. 
 
 of which stands the Monastery 1 . The inhabitants, therefore, 
 have no space for exercise, either on foot or on horseback : 
 they can only descend and ascend by the rugged path that 
 leads to the harbour. On one of the towers of the Monas- 
 tery a look-out is regularly kept for the pirates; the view 
 here being so extensive, that no vessel can approach the 
 island without being perceived. We returned to enjoy the 
 prospect from this place. The sight was extremely mag- 
 nificent ; as may be conceived by any reader who will 
 judge from the appearance exhibited by the island itself, 
 and by this Monastery, at the distance of six leagues at sea 2 . 
 We commanded the whole Island of Amorgos, which is 
 nearly forty miles from the nearest point of Patmos 3 ; and 
 were surrounded by many of the grandest objects in the 
 Archipelago. 
 
 As we descended from the great Monastery of St. John, Holy Grotto. 
 we turned off upon our right to visit a smaller edifice of 
 the same nature, erected over a cave, or grot, where the 
 Apocalypse, attributed to that Evangelist, is said to have 
 been written. It can hardly be considered as any other 
 than a hermitage, and it is entirely dependent upon the 
 principal monastery. As to the cave itself, whence this 
 
 building 
 
 (1) Perry's View of the Levant, p. 483. Lond. 1/43. Tournefort makes the same 
 comparison with reference to another island, that of St. Minas : " Elle est faite en dos 
 d'ane." Voyage du Levant, torn. II. Lett.\. p. 150. Lyon, IJ l?. 
 
 (2) See the former Section, Plate facing p. 194. 
 
 (3) Thirteen leagues, according 10 the Chart of D'Anville, published at Paris, 
 October, 1/56. 
 
EBB HHH ■■■■■■■ !*.-^A^*rt*e*'»?*:; 
 
 £^@@£^g^g£$gat&si 
 
 358 
 
 CHAP. IX. 
 
 Dinner given 
 by the French 
 Officers. 
 
 ISLAND OF PATMOS. 
 
 building derives its origin, and to which it owes all its 
 pretended sanctity, it may be supposed that any other cave 
 w r ould have answered the purpose fully as well : it is not 
 spacious enough to have afforded a habitation even for a 
 hermit ; and there is not the slightest probability that 
 any thing related concerning it, by the monks, is founded 
 in truth. The reader will find a very accurate represen- 
 tation of it in Tournefort 1 , shewing the crevices in the 
 stone through which it is pretended that the Holy Spirit 
 conveyed its dictates to the Apostle. It affords another 
 striking proof, in addition to many already enumerated, 
 that there is no degree of absurdity too gross for the pur- 
 poses of altarage and superstition. There seemed to be 
 something like a school held in the building erected about 
 this cave ; but the only monk who shewed the place to us, 
 and who appeared to superintend the seminary, was not 
 much better informed than his godly brethren in the parent 
 monastery 9 . 
 
 Descending from this place towards the Port of ha Scala, 
 we were met by several of the Frenchmen, coming with the 
 Commissary to invite us to dinner ; so grateful were they 
 for the attention paid to their request, and the consequent 
 safety of their baggage, that each seemed to strive with the 
 
 other 
 
 (1) Voyage du Levant, torn. II. p. 145. a Lyon, 17*7- 
 
 (2) Mr. Walpole, who arrived afterwards, has mentioned in his Journal that the 
 schoolmaster was able to read. He found him reading a Manuscript of the Odyssey 
 of Homer. See the Extract from Mr. Walpole 's Journal, in a preceding page of this 
 Chapter. 
 
ISLAND OF PATMOS. 
 
 359 
 
 other who could render us the greater civility. We accepted chap.ix. 
 their invitation; and were conducted into a warehouse 
 near the quay, where a large table was prepared with fish, 
 wine, and biscuit. Here we found several French women 
 conversing with their usual gaiety, and we all sat down 
 together. During dinner, the conversation turned upon the 
 events that had happened in Egypt ; and, as each began to 
 boast of his personal prowess in the late campaign, some 
 contradictions took place, and a most turbulent scene of 
 dispute ensued. In the midst of this, a figure entered the Bartheiemy. 
 warehouse, whose appearance silenced the whole party, and 
 was particularly gratifying to our curiosity. It was Bar- 
 theiemy, the famous Greek pirate, who engaged in the French 
 service under Buonaparte, and was chief of a regiment of 
 Mamlukes in Egypt. His figure was uncommonly martial 
 and dignified : he wore the Mamluke dress, and carried 
 a large knotted club as a walking stafF. Placing himself 
 at the table, he began to complain, in a very hoarse voice, 
 of the treatment he had experienced, which he stated 
 to be contrary to the most solemn stipulations ; contrary 
 to his deserts ; and highly dishonourable to the French 
 army, for whom he had fought so many battles, and made 
 such important sacrifices. They made free, it seemed, 
 with his women ; of whom he had many that he was con- 
 veying as his property to France. One or two of the prin- 
 cipal persons present endeavoured to pacify him, bv the 
 assurance that he should not be molested in future; and 
 filling a large goblet of wine, proposed to him to drink 
 " Success to the Republic, and the liberation of Greece." 
 
 The 
 
 m 
 

 360 
 
 ' CHAP. IX. 
 
 Women of 
 the Island. 
 
 ISLAND OF PATMOS. 
 
 The wary old Corsair did not appear to relish the toast; 
 and had probably, by this time, both heard and seen quite 
 enough of Gallic emancipation. 
 
 We remained near a week at Patmos. The next day 
 we revisited the Monastery, and were again admitted 
 to the Library. We found it would be impossible to 
 purchase any other Manuscripts than those for which we 
 had stipulated ; for upon this and every subsequent occasion 
 some of the inhabitants of the town thought proper to 
 accompany us into the Convent. The Superior took occasion 
 to assure us, that both he and the Bursar were willing enough 
 to part with the xstgoyguQa ; but that if it were known 
 to have brought them any gain, the people of Patmos, 
 acting as spies for the Capudan Pasha, would make it the 
 cause of a very heavy imposition upon the Monastery. 
 We could not procure a catalogue, either of the Manuscripts 
 or of the printed books'. This day we dined with the 
 monks, and afterwards went again into the town. The 
 women of the island, here collected as it were upon a single 
 point, are so generally handsome, that it is an uncommon 
 sight to meet with any who are otherwise. Their houses 
 are kept very clean: it is customary with them to raise their 
 
 beds, 
 
 (1) The Marquis of Sligo afterwards visited Patmos, and obtained the Catalogue 
 alluded to in a preceding Note : it is written in modern Greek, and contains a List of all 
 the Books in the Patmos Library. This Catalogue his Lordship kindly presented to the 
 author. Nothing is said in it as to the editions of the different authors, nor a syllable 
 concerning the age of the Manuscripts : the reader is, however, referred to it for more 
 detailed information concerning the latter; and to the Dissertation by Mr.Walpole, in 
 the beginning of this Section. 
 
ISLAND OF PATMOS. 
 
 beds, at least ten feet from the floor, and they ascend to 
 them by steps. Dapper mentions several villages in Patmos, 
 existing at present only in his work 2 . The island produces 
 very little wheat, and still less of barley: even the corn 
 consumed in the Monastery is brought 'from the Black Sea. 
 There are several bells at the Monastery, which the monks 
 are frequently ringing. The enjoyment of this noise is con- 
 sidered as a great indulgence ; bells being prohibited by the 
 Turks. Dapper says, that, excepting upon Mount Libanus, 
 Patmos is the only place in all the Turkish empire where 
 bells may be heard 3 : in this he is however mistaken, for 
 Naxos has the same privilege. 
 
 The whole of Sunday, October the eleventh, was passed 
 in great anxiety, being the day on which the Superior of the 
 Monastery had engaged to send the remaining Manuscripts 
 purchased by the author from the Library. Mr. Riley had 
 left Patmos for Constantinople ; and we began to fear, as the 
 evening approached, that his absence might become the 
 pretext for a breach of contract on the part of the monks. 
 Towards sun-set, being upon the deck of our caique, and 
 looking towards the mountain, we discerned a person 
 coming down the steep descent from the Monastery towards 
 the port : presently, as he drew near, we perceived that he 
 had a large basket upon his head, and that he was coming 
 towards the quay, opposite to the spot where our vessel was 
 at anchor. Upon his arrival, we saw him making signs 
 
 for 
 
 361 
 
 CHAP. IX. 
 
 Bells. 
 
 (2) Dapper, Description des Isles de l'Archipel. p. 181. Arnst. 1703, 
 
 (3) Ibid. p. 180. 
 
 VOL. III. 3 a 
 
362 
 
 ISLAND OF PATMOS. 
 
 CHAP. IX. 
 
 Stratagem for 
 obtaining the 
 Greek Manu- 
 scripts. 
 
 Fruitless at- 
 tempt to leave 
 the Island. 
 
 for a boat ; and we sent to him the little skiff belonging 
 to our caique. As he came along- side, he said aloud 
 that he had brought the bread ordered for us in con- 
 sequence of our letter from the Capudan Pasha; but 
 coming upon deck, he gave a significant wink, and told us 
 the Superior desired that we would " empty the basket 
 ourselves, and count the loaves, to see that all was right/* 
 Wc took the hint, and hurried with the precious charge into 
 our birth, where, having turned the basket bottom upwards, 
 we found, to our great joy, the Manuscript of Plato, the 
 Poems of Gregory, the work of Phile, with the other Tracts, 
 and the volume of Miscellanies containing the Lexicon of 
 St. Cyrill: these we instantly concealed beneath a mattress 
 in one of our cots ; and making a grand display of the loaves, 
 returned with the basket upon deck, giving a handsome 
 present to the porter, and desiring he would inform the 
 Superior, with our most grateful acknowledgments, that 
 " all was perfectly right" Having set him again on shore, 
 we gave orders to our Captain to have every thing ready for 
 sailing the next morning, and to stand out of the port as 
 soon after sun-rise as possible, intending to leave Patmos. 
 
 In this design we were, however, disappointed ; but 
 as the delay which ensued gave us an opportunity of 
 discovering some curious geological phamomena, we had 
 no reason to regret that we were thus detained. 
 
 At seven o'clock the next morning the wind served, and 
 we hoisted sail. Steering east out of the harbour, and then 
 putting the head of our caique towards the north, we 
 endeavoured to double the north-eastern point of the island. 
 
 Tournefort,. 
 
 
 
 «* 
 
ISLAND OF PATMOS. 
 
 Tournefort, who is always accurate, published, a century 
 ago, a better map of Patmos than can be found in any other 
 work 1 . Such is often the inaccuracy of Dapper, notwith- 
 standing the industry shewn in his compilation relative to 
 the islands of the Archipelago, that he describes the harbour 
 of La Scala as on the western side of the island, opposite 
 to the Isle of Naxos 9 ; perhaps confounding it with 
 Tournefort' s Port de Merica. Patmos has many ports ; and 
 from this cause it is so much infested by pirates, who 
 resort to the port of La Scala to careen their vessels, and 
 for fresh water. During the last war maintained by the 
 Venetians against Candia, La Scala was the wintering-place 
 of their fleet: there are many ruined buildings near the 
 quay. The most contradictory accounts have been published 
 of the island ; some describing it as the most barren rock of 
 the Archipelago', and others extolling its fertility 4 . From 
 all that we could collect upon the subject, it is as capable of 
 repaying the labours of husbandry as any other of the 
 neighbouring isles, were it not for the danger to which 
 
 property 
 
 363 
 
 CHAP. IX. 
 
 (1) See the Vignette to this Chapter, taken from the edition of Lyon, 1717, 
 torn. II. p. 140; and engraved with little addition. 
 
 (2) " Le meilleur port de cette ile et tout l'Archipel est au devant de la ville de 
 Patino, dn cote d 1 Occident, vis-a-vis de Pile de Naxos. II est generalement connu parmi 
 les mariniers sous le nom de La Scala." (Description des Isles de l'Archipel. p. lfQ. 
 Amst. 1/03.) To such mistakes a compiler may be liable; but when he undertakes to 
 explain the legends upon Greek medals, the reader is little prepared for an interpretation 
 like the following: " KOINOMKYnPIXlN, c'est a dire, Conon des Cypriens. Ce 
 Conon etoit apparemment le fondateur du temple" ! ! ! Ibid. p. 523. 
 
 (3) Tournefort, torn. II. p. 142. Lyon, 1717. 
 
 (4) Dapper, p. 179. Amst.1703. Georgirenez, &c. 
 

 
 »jHW»« 
 
 364 
 
 CHAP. IX. 
 
 View of 
 Samos. 
 
 ISLAND OF PATMOS. 
 
 property is exposed, from the continual incursions of the 
 pirates. Its harbours render it an important station as 
 a place of commerce : but the circumference of the whole 
 island does not exceed eighteen miles, although Pliny 
 makes it equal to thirty 1 . It seems to have been hardly 
 known before the Christian agra. Strabo merely notices 
 its situation as one of the Sporades, near to Amorgos, 
 Lebinthus, and Leria*. 
 
 As we sailed to the northward of the island, we were 
 surprised to see Samos so distinctly in view. It is hardly 
 possible that the relative situation of Samos and Patmos can 
 be accurately laid down in D'Anville's, or any more recent 
 chart ; for keeping up to windward, we found ourselves to be 
 so close under Samos, that we had a clear view, both of 
 the island and of the town 3 . This island, the. most conspi- 
 cuous object not only of the Ionian Sea, but of all the 
 ^Egean, is less visited, and of course less known, than any 
 other : it is one of the largest and most considerable of 
 them all, and so near to the main land that it has been 
 affirmed persons upon the opposite coasts may hear each 
 other speak 4 . The generality of Greek authors describe its 
 circumference as equal to eighty-seven and a half of our miles. 
 
 Strabo 
 
 (1) Hist. Nat. lib. iv. cap. 12. torn. I. p. 224. L. Bat. 1635. 
 
 (2) JJXrfffiov cT £<tti teat r\ Ila'ryuoi, k. t. X. Strabon. Geog. lib. xvii. p. Jll. 
 Oxon. I8O7. 
 
 (3) The relative position of these islands seems to be more accurately delineated in 
 the old Map of Antient Greece, by William Delisle, dated Paris, October, 1707. 
 
 (4) Dapper, p. 190. Amst. 1703. 
 
ISLE OF SAMOS. 
 
 Strabo considers it as somewhat less : but its surprising 
 elevation and relative position, with regard to the lower 
 islands of Fourni and Nicaria, make it a land-mark all over the 
 Archipelago 5 . According to Constantine Porphyrogenetes, 
 any very lofty place was called Samos 6 . The name of 
 KATABATH was antiently given to the terrible rock which 
 forms the cape and precipice upon its western side, as col- 
 lecting the clouds, and generating thunder : Jupiter the 
 Thunderer being also called Kara/Sarjjs ZsuV- One of the 
 monasteries is called Tlccvccyia, fBgovtiu, Our Tady of the Thunder. 
 There are four nunneries upon the island, and above three 
 hundred private chapels ; yet the population does not exceed 
 12,000 men; which is explained by Tournefort, who says, 
 that the island is entirely in the hands of churchmen, 
 possessing seven monasteries. The swarm of Caloyers and 
 Greek Papas have made a desert of this fine island, where 
 all the qualification necessary to become a priest, and live 
 by the industry of othe/s, is the talent of being able to 
 repeat mass from memory. The bishop of Samos, who is 
 also bishop of Nicaria, enjoys an annual income of two 
 thousand crowns ; and derives, besides, a considerable 
 revenue from the important services he renders to the 
 
 islanders, 
 
 365 
 
 CHAP. IX. 
 
 (5) A fact has been disputed, which the author is still disposed. to maintain; viz. 
 that the Boccaze of Samos may be seen from the summit of Hymettus in Attica. 
 
 (6) See also Tournefort, torn II. lett. 3. Lyon, 1 717. 
 
 (7) Kara/3aV?/c Ztt/e, irapd to Karafltfidfciv top Ktpavvov. Suidas. Jul. Poll, 
 lib.'i. cap. I. Lilanius, Legat. ad Julian. Pausan. Eliac. prior Pharnutus in Jovis cog- 
 nominilus, speak of Jupiter Kara</3aVf/c, who darts the thunder. See also Tournef. 
 Voy. du Lev. torn. II. p. 105. Lyon, 1717 5 whence this note is taken. 
 
:*£*:« ^H ^Mfi ^^^H 
 
 ———— — 
 
 ISLE OF SAMOS. 
 
 islanders, in blessing for them their water and their cattle 
 in the beginning of May. All the produce of the dairies 
 on that day belongs to him: he has also two beasts out of 
 every herd'. In such a state of affairs, we cannot wonder at 
 the change that has taken place between the antient and the 
 modern population of Samos : its fertility in former ages 
 made it the subject of proverbial admiration and praise*. 
 It is related in Athenaeus, that the fruit and rose-trees of 
 the island bore twice a year 3 . Tournefort says, that Samos 
 is infested with wolves; and that tigers sometimes arrive 
 from the main land, after crossing the little Boccaze 4 ; 
 thereby confirming an observation made by the author in the 
 former section, with regard to the existence of tigers in 
 Asia Minor. 
 
 Passing across the great Boccaze, between Samos and 
 Icaria, we were much struck by the extraordinary intensity 
 of the deep blue colour of the sea ; and this, which is as 
 much a distinguishing characteristic of the Archipelago as 
 the brightness of its sky, has been noticed by no writer, 
 excepting our enchanting bard, now so deservedly the theme 
 of general praise 5 . 
 
 As 
 
 (1) See Tournef. Voy . du Lev. torn. II. p. 107- Lyon, 17 1 7- 
 
 (2) 'On <pcpei tot dpvidcov ydXa ; Kada7rsp ttov Kctl Mivav£po<; i(f»n. Strabon. Geos, 
 lib. xiv. p. 914. Ed. Oxon. 
 
 (3) Athen. Deipn. lib. xiv. 
 
 (4) Voyage du Lev. torn. II. p. 112. Lyon, \J\7. 
 
 (5) " He that has sailed upon the dark blue sea, 
 
 ** Has viewed at times, I ween, a full fair sight." 
 
 Byron's " Childe Harold" p. 6g. Lond. 1812. 
 
Armorgos. at Sun set Oct.li bearing S.W.and by W.dietantjo Jf,-V,:>\ 
 
 ftheBoeeaze of Samoa bearing X.K.i- byE.distant U2£tes.with Samoi.fbttrni.andJfamri. 
 taken h>>m r/ifSorth Coast of Patmes. 
 
 1 lew of the Boeeaze. or Passage between jlfuhvs and teiws. bearina .V./'.r /•■,/.' .//.<•/.;;// .i/><<nt i, n Mile. 
 
 PublttheA Mm ■> 1S14 by T.CadeU r :';.7'./i/,-..-..>".7v/,7.i'./.,'.7./.vv. 
 

ICARIA. $67 
 
 As evening drew on, we took the bearings of the principal chap.jx. 
 headlands then in view, and found them to be accurately 
 as follow : 
 
 Fourni n. 
 
 Samos n. n. e. 
 
 Asiatic Coast e. n. e. 
 
 La Scala, Patmos Port . . s. e. 
 Groupe of small Isles . . s. and by w. 
 Island called Anguaro . . s. w. 
 
 Amorgos s. w. and by w. 
 
 Naxos w. and by s. 
 
 Cape of Icaria n. w. and by w. and w. n. \v. 
 
 Whenever it is practicable to make these observations at 
 sunset in the Archipelago, surrounded as a vessel always is 
 by land, they ought to be carefully noticed. 
 
 After sunset, we were becalmed off the Point of Icaria, icaria. 
 and remained, during part of the night, in a state of great 
 apprehension, owing to the fears of our mariners with 
 regard to the pirates. Some fires were exhibited on shore; 
 first one, and then another above it, until we saw five 
 burning at the same time. These our Captain maintained 
 to be signals made by corsairs on the island, who were 
 collecting to attack our vessel ; consequently we extinguished 
 every light on board, and began to row with all the energy 
 in our power, drawing off towards Naxos. Icaria is at 
 present one of the grand resorts of these predatory rovers, 
 who are always upon the watch for ships passing the 
 Boccazc of Samos. Small vessels, unfortunately becalmed 
 near to their haunts, have but little chance of escaping. 
 
 Icaria 
 

 368 
 
 CHAP. IX. 
 
 icaria; 
 
 Icaria is at present hardly known : it once gave name 
 to the Icarian Sea 1 , and had two towns in the time of 
 Pliny 2 . These must have been the small towns mentioned 
 by Strabo 5 , of CEnoe, and Drepanum; called, in the Doric 
 dialect, Dracanum. No traveller has sought for any anti- 
 quities upon Icaria; yet we are further informed by 
 Strabo 4 , that it had a temple of Diana, called Tauropolium ; 
 and Goltzius has preserved a medal of the island, with 
 the legend iKAPinN, representing Europa passing the sea 
 upon a bull, with the effigy of Diana armed with a bow, 
 and accompanied by a hound, upon the reverse. It received 
 the name of Icaria from the story of the flight of Icarus 
 from Crete, whose body, fabled to have been cast upon 
 this island, after falling into the iEgean, was buried by 
 Hercules 5 ; and this antient name it retains to the present 
 day 6 . The Italians, but more particularly the French, have 
 introduced a number of appellations for the islands of the 
 Archipelago, which do not exist among the Greeks : thus 
 Icaria has been often called Naccari; Cos, Stanchio; and 
 
 Crete 
 
 (1) Njjo-oc >/ 'IicapKx, d<f 17c 7-0 'lKapiov viXayoi. Stralon. Geog. lib. xiv. p.Ql5. 
 
 Oxon. 1807. 
 
 " Icarus Icariis nomine fecit aquis." 
 
 Ovid. Trist. lib. iii. El. 4. v. 22. 
 
 (2) " Cum oppidis duobus, tertio amisso." Hist. Nat. lib. iv. cap. 12. torn. I. 
 p. 223. L. Bat. 1635. 
 
 (3) Strabon. Geog. ubi supra. 
 
 (4) Ibid. 
 
 (5) Pomp. Mela, ii. cap. 7. Ptolem. 5. cap. 2. Strab. ubi supra. 
 
 (6) Tournefort made the same observation : " N icaria n'a pas change de nom, elle 
 s'appelle Icaria, tout comme autrefois." Voy. du Lev. torn. II. p. 96. Lyon, 1/1/. 
 
RETURN TO PATMOS. 
 
 369 
 
 Crete almost always bears the name of Candia. Our Casiot t ^ HA ^ ix ;, 
 mariners, in their common conversation, called these islands 
 severally, Icaria, Cos, and Crete; never using the words 
 Naccari, Stanchio, and Candia. 
 
 After labouring for several hours, the wind began to 
 come in squalls from the south-west, directly contrary to 
 our course for Naxos ; the sky at the same time lowering, 
 with flashes of lightning, to windward; a never- failing indi- 
 cation of violent gales in these seas. Our Captain proposed 
 that we should run for the first port on the western side of 
 Patmos : to this we gladly consented ; and especially because 
 he declared himself to be well acquainted with the entrance 
 to a small harbour on that side of the island. As the 
 daylight began to appear, w 7 e found ourselves close under Western port 
 some very high cliffs, in the face of which appeared a dark 
 chasm, the narrow mouth of this port. Through this 
 passage we entered ; and, having brought our vessel to 
 anchor, perceived that the harbour in which we were now 
 stationed was opposite to that of La Scala, being separated 
 from it only by a small isthmus. It proved to be a fine, 
 clear day. The mercury in Fahrenheit's thermometer stood, 
 at noon, at ;5J. Soon after coming to anchor, the author 
 landed, with a view of examining the cliffs; as the ports of the 
 island have the appearance of craters, and substances resem- 
 bling lava are common among the fragments of its rocks. The 
 Monastery of St. John is situated upon the highest verge of 
 a crater of this description ; and the harbour of La Scala 
 owes its origin to another. Perhaps there is not a spot in 
 the Archipelago with more of the semblance of a volcanic 
 
 vol. in. 3 b origin 
 

 370 
 
 CHAP. IX. 
 
 Geological 
 Phenomena. 
 
 ISLAND OF PATMOS. 
 
 origin than Patmos. The cliffs exhibit no form of regular 
 strata, but one immense bed of a porous black rock, in which 
 are numerous nuclei of a white colour, as large as a pullet's 
 egg, in the form of crosses. Those crosses are, of course, 
 considered by the ignorant inhabitants as so many miraculous 
 apocalyptical types: and it is singular that the monks have 
 not, as is usual in such cases, some marvellous tale to relate 
 of their origin. The rock itself, upon a nearer examination, 
 proved to be a very curious porphyry : the nuclei were all 
 of them intersecting crystals of feldspar, imbedded in 
 decomposing trap 1 . Among the geological phenomena of 
 the Archipelago, it is perhaps impossible to point out any that 
 are more worthy of observation than those which are exhibited 
 in the cliffs surrounding this remarkable harbour ; and there 
 has never been exhibited specimens of porphyry where the 
 
 crystals 
 
 (l) We succeeded in detaching some of those twin crystals tolerably entire : their 
 intersection had taken place obliquely in the direction of their lateral planes, the major 
 diameter of each crystal being parallel to that of its associate. Owing to this intersection, 
 the appearance ot a cross was exhibited whenever the nuclei, by weathering, had 
 been worn away transversely, so as to become level with the superficies of the rock 
 in which they were imbedded. This relative position and their colour give them 
 some resemblance to leucite; differing from leucite otherwise in the size and shape 
 of the crystals. Leucite is, however, so nearly allied to feldspar, that were it not for 
 the very minute portion of lime which is found in the latter, their chemical constituents 
 would be nearly the same, and in the same proportions ; and possibly the double 
 cleavage observed by Hairy in the former, which caused him to bestow upon it the 
 name of amphigene, may be owing to some circumstance of intersection which so 
 commonly characterizes the crystals of feldspar. At all events, it may be proposed as 
 a mineralogical query, " Whether, if leucite be found before it has sustained the action 
 of fire, it do not prove to be a variety of Aduluriu, ?" 
 
ISLAND OF PATMOS. 
 
 371 
 
 CHAP. IX. 
 
 crystals of feldspar are in any degree comparable in size 
 with those which are now mentioned 2 . 
 
 This day, Tuesday, October the thirteenth, we observed, Plants. 
 in a small garden near this harbour, a Karob-tree (Ceratonia 
 Siliqua) in bloom. A few shrubs grew among the rocks, but 
 we could procure no specimens of plants worth collecting 
 for our herbary. The island abounds in goats, rabbits, and Animals 
 partridges. In the evening we amused ourselves in fishing, and 
 caught some red mullets. The harbour appeared as literally 
 swarming with the most beautiful fishes, of all colours. We 
 perceived some that were green, others that were blue, and 
 again others that were striped. Our sailors taught us to use 
 small shell-fish for our baits ; and as we lowered these to the 
 bottom, the water being as clear as crystal, the fish, tempted 
 from their haunts among the marine plants that covered 
 the rocks, were seen distinctly whenever they took the 
 snare. The Greeks are very expert fishermen, and our 
 sailors caught many more than we could do ; they had also 
 a curious method of luring the fish out of the spiral shells 
 which we found here, by a continued and gentle tapping 
 of the shell with the point of a knife, accompanied by a 
 tremulous whistling. We found several kinds of shell-fish ; 
 and could discern some large scollops lying upon the rocks 
 
 beneath 
 
 (2) Martin Crusius, in his annotations upon an Epistle of Macarius (abbot of 
 Patmos) to the Greek Patriarch, in J 5/Q, has cited a work printed at Venice, which 
 states that the island is metalliferous. " La quale insula, e montuosa, et di vene di metalli 
 copiosa." Vid. Tnrco-Graeciae, lib. iv. p. 302. Basil, sine anno. 
 
^•^•■n^^v^-tti-.-jr^ ^.■jticye-JK,:.-. ^.wal^v-'i-.^]- ^^^HHHBT 
 
 372 
 
 ISLAND OF PATMOS. 
 
 CHAP. IX. 
 
 beneath the clear still water, but they were out of our reach. 
 Very fine spunges might also be gathered from the same rocks, 
 all around the bay. It continued calm all the next day. 
 The author went early on shore, to see if any antiquities 
 might be found between the two ports ; and was fortunate 
 enough to discover two Greek Marbles, the first of which, 
 a bas-relief with an inscription, he purchased and brought 
 away. It was found by a peasant upon a small rocky isle 
 near to the mouth of the harbour of La Scala. The 
 sculpture had not much merit ; but any relique is worthy 
 of notice which exhibits an example of Grecian sculpture at 
 Patmos, where no antiquity of this kind has hitherto been 
 Marbiec^w*. discovered. This marble is a sepulchral tablet, or Cippus, 
 as distinguished from the Stele, and it is now deposited in 
 the Vestibule of the University Library at Cambridge 1 . The 
 subject represented is the Death-bed of " Aristeas son of 
 ZosixMUs." A dog is introduced into the design, apparently 
 watching for the moment of dissolution. This figure, denoting 
 the Anuhis of the Egyptians, and Hermes of the Greeks, 
 commonly appears upon sepulchral monuments, as a symbol 
 of Mercury the conductor of the souls of the dead. Beneath 
 the bas-relief is this inscription: 
 
 A PI CTEAC 
 
 ZOIIMOY 
 
 The 
 
 (1) See" Greek Marbles" No. XIII. p. 11. Caml. I8O9. 
 
ISLAND OF PATMOS. 373 
 
 The other marble was also a cippus, nearly of the same form, v chap, ix. t 
 with an inscription almost as brief as the preceding: 
 
 A I O A n P A 
 
 XPHITE 
 X A I PE 
 
 The meaning of the word ^a/^s upon a cippus will hardly 
 admit of dispute. It is the common form of salutation, 
 " hail, and farewell" upon almost every Grecian tombstone. 
 But those who are curious to learn its various significations, 
 when used in conversation by the Greeks, may consult Lucian 
 himself, who, when apprentice to his uncle the sculptor, 
 had often employed his chisel in carving the letters of a 
 word on stone, which he afterwards used as the subject 
 of one of his critical dissertations 2 . 
 
 This being the evening of the sixth day since our first Departure 
 
 ii • i from Patmos. 
 
 arrival in Patmos, and perhaps being as well acquainted 
 with it as if we had spent a year in its examination, we 
 became impatient to leave it; and began to fancy, that as our 
 caique was hired by the month, its owners would create as 
 much delay as possible, and loiter in port when they might 
 safely venture out. Accordingly, after midnight, having 
 roused the Captain, we told him that it was a fine night, 
 and that we wished he would put to sea. This man was 
 one of the most experienced pilots of the Archipelago, and 
 as worthy a Greek as ever navigated these seas ; but we had 
 not at that time learned to place the confidence in him 
 
 which 
 
 (2) Vid. Luciani Opera, torn. III. p. 186. " Pro lapsu in Salutando." Edit. Reitz. 
 Bipont, 1790. 
 

 374 
 
 DEPARTURE FROM PATMOS. 
 
 CHAP. IX. 
 
 Greek 
 mariners 
 
 which he highly deserved. He was very poor ; and having 
 become a widower in an early period of his life, had suffered 
 his beard to grow, according to the manner of mourning in 
 his native Isle of Casos, wearing at the same time a black 
 Prognostics of turban. Without making any answer to our proposal, he 
 continued for the space of a minute looking up attentively, 
 with his eyes fixed towards the zenith- Presently he shook 
 his head ; and pointing upwards, with his arm extended, 
 asked us, How we liked the sky ? As it seemed to be very 
 clear, and there were many stars visible, we replied that 
 there was every sign of fair weather. " Do you not see," 
 said he, " some small clouds, which now and then make 
 their appearance, and instantly afterwards vanish ?" We 
 confessed that we did; but rather hastily insisted that 
 instead of peering after signs in the sky, he should get the 
 vessel out of harbour as speedily as possible. His only 
 comment upon this order, so inconsiderately given, was a 
 summons to his companions to heave the anchor, and hoist 
 the sails. We had barely light enough to steer through 
 the narrow channel at the entrance, without running 
 against the rocks ; and we had no sooner cleared the 
 port, than it fell a dead calm. A prodigious sea tossing 
 our vessel in all directions, soon convinced us of the 
 nature of the birth for which we had exchanged our snug 
 station but a few minutes before. Surrounded as we had 
 been by the lofty cliffs of the island, we had not the 
 most distant conception of the turbulent sea we should 
 encounter. Our steady helmsman endeavoured in vain to 
 keep the prow of his vessel to any particular point ; and 
 
 calling 
 
DEPARTURE FROM PATMOS. 
 
 calling to our interpreter, bade him notice what he termed 
 in Greek " the belching of the deep." This happens during 
 the roll of a calm, when a wave, lifted to a great height, 
 suddenly subsides, with a deep and hollow sound, like air 
 bursting through a narrow channel. Our apprehensions 
 had already got the better of our indifference to such 
 observations ; and in a very different tone of voice from 
 that in which we had ordered him out of port, we 
 asked the Captain, What that noise denoted ? He calmly 
 replied, that it was generally considered as a bad omen; 
 but that he more disliked the appearance which he had 
 desired us to notice before we left the harbour. Being by 
 this time heartily sick of our usurped authority, we begged 
 that he would be guided in future by the dictates of 
 his own experience, and further requested that he would 
 put back into port. This he affirmed to be impossible ; 
 and that he would not venture towards a lee- shore during 
 the night for any consideration. We prepared therefore 
 to suffer, as we had deserved, for our extreme folly and 
 rashness, and, strange as it may seem, not without many 
 an anxious thought for the antient Manuscripts we had on 
 board. The crew lighted a wax taper before a small 
 picture of some Saint in the foreship, as we occupied all 
 the after-part of the hold with our cots and baggage. 
 Here, when we endeavoured to lie down for rest, we 
 were over-run by swarms of stinking cock-roaches ' ; we 
 
 remained 
 
 375 
 
 CHAP. IX. 
 
 (l) Blatta Orientalis. Linn. The modern Greeks call it Katsarida. According 
 to Sonnini, they consecrate the festival of St. Gregory to these disgusting and troublesome 
 insects. Trav. in Greece, p. 185. Lond. 1801. 
 
376 DEPARTURE FROM PATMOS. 
 
 chap. ix. remained therefore sitting upon some planks that we had 
 placed to serve as a floor, with our heads touching the 
 roof which the deck afforded, sustaining the violent motion 
 of the vessel, and anxiously expecting the coming of the 
 morning. 
 
 rrkb.'Mu ,«.._l. 
 
PATMOS TO P-AROS. 
 
 Gale of wind — Ifessel driven to the south of Naxos — Panormo — 
 Independent Shepherds — appearance of the island — Minerals 
 — Naxian Boccaze — Toivn of Naxos — Manuscripts — Inhabitants — 
 Population — Antiquities — Inscriptions — Sculpture — Medals — Gems 
 — Colossal Statue — Temple of Bacchus — Other Ruins — Smeriglio — 
 Arrival at Paros — Parechia — Castle — Inscriptions — Ship stranded — 
 Antiparos — Grotto — its possible origin — mode of descent — description of 
 the interior — Nature of the Stalactites — manner of their deposition — 
 Paradoxical Phccnomena — Crystallization of Alabaster — Arragonite 
 — Visit of the French Ambassador — Oliarcs — Antient Quarries of 
 Parian Marble — Marpessus — Cause of the prevalence of Parian 
 Marble in Grecian Sculpture — Marvellous skill of the Antients in 
 zvorking the Quarries — Bas-relief— Explanation of the Inscription — 
 Origin of the work — Evidence it affords — Theory of Crystallization. 
 
 .Tor some time after leaving the port, we endeavoured, by 
 
 hoisting canvas, to avail ourselves of the short gusts of 
 
 vol. in. 3 c land- 
 
 chap. x. 
 
Gale of wind. 
 
 ISLAND OF NAXOS. ? 
 
 land-wind that came from the east during the calm; a 
 heavy and unsteady sea rolling. Afterwards, a light breeze 
 prevailing from that quarter, we were enabled to stand over 
 to Icaria ; where we were entirely becalmed : and the usual 
 alarm taking place, as to pirates upon the coast, we hauled 
 ofF with our oars. Towards morning, a fresh wind sprung 
 from the north-west, accompanied by flashes of lightning ; 
 and we directed the prow of our caique towards Naxos. 
 As the sun rose, the sky bore a very angry aspect ; the horizon 
 being of the deepest crimson, interspersed with dark clouds. 
 We soon perceived that the prediction made by the Casiot 
 master of our vessel would be fulfilled, and that we should 
 encounter a storm. The high land of Icaria sheltered us 
 until we got farther towards the south-west ; when the gale 
 freshened, and came upon us with such violence, that 
 we could not keep our course. All our endeavours to 
 beat to windward, so as to weather the northern point 
 of Naxos, and bear down the strait between that island 
 and Paros, were ineffectual : we fell fast to leeward ; 
 and getting among some rocks upon the eastern side of 
 Naxos, the foresail was carried away. The first notice 
 that we received of this accident, came with a wave, 
 which broke over the caique, and almost filled our 
 birth : it was fortunate that those upon deck were not 
 washed overboard. We made our way up as well as we 
 could, expecting every instant that something more serious 
 would happen. The waves ran mountains high, and the 
 caique would not answer to her helm. During the delay 
 caused by getting the foresail repaired, we shipped water 
 
 continually; 
 
ISLAND OF NAXOS 
 
 continually; and being obliged to take the gale in poop, such 
 a sea followed us, that there was reason to fear, if the 
 mainsail gave way, the vessel would founder. When 
 matters were somewhat rectified, we steered for a narrow 
 channel between some high rocks and the eastern side of 
 the island: it seemed rather like flying than sailing: our 
 little caique ran over the curling tops of the highest waves, 
 without shipping any more water. This was remarked by 
 our undaunted Captain, stationed with his crew at the helm, 
 who exclaimed, " Let us see one of your frigates in such a sea 
 as this : there is not one of them could weather it like my 
 little caique ! " We passed like lightning within a cable's 
 length of some dreadful rocks, over which the sea was dashing 
 as high as our mast head; until getting under the lee, to the 
 south of Naxos, we ran the vessel aground, close to a small 
 creek, upon some white sand. 
 
 Within this creek another small bark had taken shelter; 
 the crew of which, seeing our situation, came to assist our 
 Captain in getting his caique off the sand, and in hauling 
 her farther up the creek, in which they happily succeeded. 
 We then cast anchor, and began to examine the state of 
 our baggage. Like true shipwrecked mariners, wet to the 
 skin, and without a dry thread on board, we opened all our 
 stores upon the rocks, to expose our clothes in the beams of 
 the sun. Every article of our linen was completely soaked; 
 but, to our great joy, the Manuscripts had escaped, and were 
 safe. We had put them into a small, but stout wooden box, 
 in the stern of the vessel; and had covered this with every 
 article of canvas, &c. that could be collected. 
 
 The 
 
 Vessel driven 
 to the south 
 of Naxoe. 
 
'■- , 'v-i-.\*-i« ■ ■ \*£*P 
 
 380 
 
 CHAP. X. 
 
 Panormo. 
 
 Independent 
 Shepherds. 
 
 ISLAND OF NAXOS. 
 
 The gale continuing from the same quarter, and with the 
 force of a hurricane, we were detained here during this 
 and the following day. It is surprising for what a 
 length of time, and how often, the north-west rages in the 
 Archipelago. It prevails, almost unceasingly, through the 
 greater part of the year. After sunset there is generally a 
 calm, which is succeeded by light breezes from the land, 
 especially from mountains surrounding gulphs ; but at sun- 
 rise the north-west begins again 1 . The little creek in which 
 our vessel found shelter is called, by the islanders, the Bay 
 of Panormo, and there are some insignificant ruins upon the 
 rocks above it, which they call Panormo Castle*. The only in- 
 habitants we saw were parties of men leading uninterruptedly 
 a pastoral life, without paying any tax, either to the island 
 or to the Turkish government: we found them tending their 
 sheep and goats in this wild part of Naxos, like a race of 
 primeval shepherds 3 . They brought us some sheep soon 
 
 after 
 
 (1) Mr. Spenser Smith, brother of Sir Sidney Smith, informed the author that he 
 was an entire month employed in endeavouring to effect a passage from Rhodes to 
 Stanchio: the north-west wind prevailed all the time with such force, that the vessel 
 in which he sailed could not double Cape Crio. 
 
 (2) Tonrnefort mentions this little harbour, under the name of Panormo. {Voy. du 
 Levant, torn. I. p. 248. Lyon, 171/-) None of the ports of Naxos are proper for the 
 reception of large vessels, and therefore it is that Tavernier says the island has no ports. 
 
 (3) According to Herodotus, the most antient inhabitants of Naxos were a race of 
 Ionians. Aristotle relates, that the most wealthy of them lived in the town, and thst 
 the rest were scattered about, among the villages, in different parts of the island. A 
 very antient Inscription found near the base of Zia (AIA), the. principal mountain, 
 which is preserved by Spon and by Tournefort, will prove that the pastures of Naxcs 
 had invited shepherds in a very ca.ly age. It consists only of three words. OPO^ AIOS 
 
 . MEAJ1XIOV, "' Mountain of Jupiter, Guardian of Flocks." The title of Shepherd, is 
 
 applied 
 
ISLAND OF NAXOS. 
 
 after our arrival ; descending the rocks with their bare feet, 
 and wearing upon their legs the cothurnus, in its most 
 antient form, made of the undressed skins of their goats, 
 with the hair on the outside. Whence they came, or who they 
 were, we could not learn ; for they said they had little con- 
 nection with any of the villages of the island, nor any settled 
 place of residence ; that they had neither wives nor houses ; 
 sleeping at night behind some bush, in the open air, and 
 labouring merely for subsistence, without a thought of riches. 
 They had all the same kind of clothing : it consisted of a 
 woollen jacket, and short trowsers, of their own manufacture, 
 partly concealing the cothurnus of goat's hair upon their legs. 
 They cover their heads with a red scull-cap, which is manu- 
 factured at Venice 4 . Reckoning their goats and sheep 
 together, these independent shepherds have five or six 
 hundred animals in each flock. They shear their sheep 
 
 twice 
 
 applied to the Deity, is of great antiquity. It is often found in Scripture. " Give ear, 
 O thou Shepherd of Israel!" (Psalm Ixxx. 1.) "The Lord is my Shepherd 
 — He m.yketh me to lie down in green pastures : he lkadeth me beside 
 the still waters." Psalm xxiii. J, 2. 
 
 (4) This part of the modern Greek and Albanian dress is the most antient : it may 
 be observed upon a Bas-relief of the highest antiquity, near to Orchomenos in 
 Boeotia : it is still worn throughout Albania, and among all the Grecian Isles, as it 
 was by their ancestors; and by the Byzantine Emperors. It is common also to the 
 Turks, from the Grand Signior to the meanest slave, who wear it beneath the turban : 
 and the portrait of Manuel Palaeologus (exhibiting this cap with the addition only of 
 ornamental gems about it) which was engraven as a Vignette to the First Chapter of 
 the former Section, was placed there expressly to shew, that the Turks in their 
 domestic habits (when it is s;ometimes usual for them, as destitute of ceremony, to 
 take oft' their turban) do exhibit a costume precisely corresponding with the appearance 
 presented by that portrait. Persons who have never seen the Turks except upon 
 occasions of ceremony, when their heads are covered by high calpacks and by turbans, 
 
 and 
 
 381 
 
 CHAP. X. 
 
«*?«* s^r? 
 
 382 
 
 CHAP . X. 
 
 Appearance 
 of the Island. 
 
 ISLAND OF NAXOS. 
 
 twice a year; putting the rams to the ewes in May, and 
 removing them when the latter begin to lamb. They speak 
 the modern Greek language; and perhaps recruit their 
 numbers from the race of Albanians which is scattered over 
 all Greece. They told us that they made three or four hun- 
 dred piastres annually, out of a flock of five hundred sheep 
 and goats : and this sum they spend in the few~ necessaries 
 or indulgences they may require. We killed and dressed 
 one of their sheep : the mutton had a very bad flavour. 
 
 The island has no port on its eastern side : it is there 
 mountainous, but the soil is black and barren. The rocks 
 in this part of it consist of alternate strata of schistus and 
 limestone. We noticed a stratum of primary limestone, 
 surmounted by schistus; and above that was a layer of a 
 soft kind of Cipolino marble, striped blue and white. The 
 next day, October the sixteenth, we landed to collect plants, 
 and to examine the traces of buildings above this little 
 bay, which may be called Panormo Creek, for it merits no 
 higher consideration. We found the remains of walls, built 
 above precipices, in which cement had been used; and 
 noticed a door, with a small room that had once been stuccoed. 
 In a rude chapel, which the shepherds had constructed of 
 loose stones, we observed the fragment of an antique marble; 
 but, upon the whole, these works had much more the 
 
 appearance 
 
 and who do not therefore remark the antient and common covering for the head which 
 is below these, will not perceive any resemblance between the figure of a modern 
 Sultan and the portrait of Manuel Palaeologus ; although nothing can be more striking; 
 for they have the same characteristic aquiline features, the same length of visage and of 
 beard, and the same covering of the crown on the head. 
 
 
ISLAND OF NAXOS. 383 
 
 appearance of buildings hastily constructed by pirates, than , chap. x - , 
 by anv people acquainted with architectural science. We 
 noticed some caves near the shore ; and it is probable that 
 this obscure and almost unknown retreat has offered an 
 occasional asylum to some of the numerous corsairs of the 
 Archipelago. After this, our botanical excursions led us a 
 short distance into the interior, over a barren district, 
 "jitter" as Tournefort said of the whole island 1 , " to inspire 
 sadness than joy." We saw neither fixed inhabitants, nor any 
 mark of cultivation 2 . The high rocks above the creek were 
 covered with the blossoms of a species of Cyclamen, probably 
 the autumnale of Ray 3 : we collected a great number of 
 these, and several bulbous- rooted plants, particularly one 
 with a small and very elegant white flower, which we 
 thought was new, but the specimens were afterwards injured 
 or lost. We could not find Tournefort's Heliotropium humi- 
 fusum 4 ; we had seen it often in the Holy Land, and wished 
 to observe the change that might be effected by such a 
 difference of situation. The mineralogy of this island Minerals, 
 promises to be highly interesting, when an opportunity is 
 offered to any naturalist for its investigation ; but where 
 
 there 
 
 (1) " Elle nous parut d'abord plus propre a inspirer de la tristesse que de la joye." 
 Voyage du Levant, torn. I. p. 254. Lyon, 1 717- 
 
 (2) Count de Choiseul Gouffier gave a very different description of the north part of 
 the island. " Si Ton avance dans les terres, on trouve des vallees delicieuses, arrosees de 
 mille ruisseaux, et des forets d'orangers, de figuiers, et de grenadiers. La terre par sa 
 feconditc semble prevenir tons les besoins de ses habitans; elle nourrit un grande quan- 
 tlte de bestiaux, de gibier. Le ble, l'huile, les figues, et le vin, y sont toujours abondans. 
 On y recueille aussi de la soie." Voyage Pittoresque de la Grece, p. 41. Paris, 1782. 
 
 (3) Raii Hist. 1200'. 
 
 (4) Tournef." ibid. p. 265. 
 

 
 384 
 
 CHAP. X. 
 
 ISLAND OF NA&OS. 
 
 there are no mines, the mere traveller, examining only those 
 excavations which Nature carries on, has little chance of 
 adding greatly to his stock of knowledge. The Geologist, 
 attending only to aggregation, may fare better in the 
 midst of the compound masses which are everywhere pre- 
 sented to his view. A species of breccia was found here, 
 called Ophites by the antient Greeks, which may have been 
 the Verde antico; it is described as of a green colour, spotted 
 with white. From the position of the strata, as before 
 noticed, this compound may frequently occur, where the 
 layers of schistus and marble meet, and where the schistus 
 is either of a green colour itself, or contains green serpentine. 
 It has been also pretended that gold ores exist in the island, 
 but that the inhabitants carefully conceal the secret of their 
 locality, through fear of being compelled by the Turks to 
 work those ores. The famous Emery of Naxos is situated 
 in an opposite part of the island, towards the north- 
 west : the author has ever since regretted that his rough 
 treatment at sea entirely banished from his recollection all 
 thought of this important part of the natural history of 
 Naxos ; and he has the more regretted his inattention to it, 
 as we are entirely ignorant of the geological position, asso- 
 ciation, and matrix of Emery. Since the celebrated Tennant 
 hasdiscovered its relationship to Corundum', independently 
 of its consequence in a commercial view, and of its con- 
 nection with antient history, it is peculiarly entitled to notice. 
 The matrix of the Corundum of the Carnatic is a stone of a 
 
 peculiar 
 
 (l) See the Communication read to the Royal Society, July 1, 1802, on the compo- 
 sition of Emery, by Sinithson Tennant, F. R. S. 
 
 L**ti»feU^»» 
 
ISLAND OF NAXOS. 1 
 
 peculiar nature, resembling the Naxian marble*. The 
 crystals of Corundum are dispersed in it in the same manner 
 as those of feldspar are disposed in porphyry 5 . The author 
 has succeeded in obtaining, by the accidental fracture of the 
 compact emery of Naxos, as regular an hexagonal form as 
 that which may be noticed in the Corundum of the Mysore : 
 nor is it unreasonable to infer, as a probability, that Telesia, 
 or perfect Corundum, under the forms exhibited by the 
 Oriental sapphire and Oriental ruby, may be found by 
 future travellers in the mines of emery at Naxos. Tournefort 
 relates, that in his time those mines were situated at the 
 bottom of a valley, beyond a place called Perato, in the 
 territory of the French Consul; but that the inhabitants 
 find emery as they plough the earth, and carry it down to the 
 sea coast, where the English did often ballast their ships with 
 it ; and it was so cheap, that twenty-eight hundred weight 
 of it might be purchased for a crown 4 . Dapper says, that a 
 cape on the north-west side of the island takes its name 
 from this stone . Almost all the emery of commerce comes 
 from Naxos. The island has been celebrated for ages in 
 being the peculiar deposit of this remarkable mineral. Pliny, 
 in the description he has given of a green stone which 
 
 the 
 
 385 
 
 CHXP \. 
 
 (2) " It is similar," says the Count de Bournon, " to the kind of marble known by 
 the name of Coarse-grained Saline Marble." (See Bournon on the Corundum Stone, 
 p. 50. Lond. 1802.) This description answers to the marble of Naxos. 
 
 (3) See Bournon, &c. as above. 
 
 (4) Tournef. Voy. du Levant, torn. I. p. 263. Lyon, 171 7. 
 
 (5) Capo Smeriglio; the Italians calling emery, Srneriglio, or Smerillo. See Dapper, 
 Isles de VArchipel. p. 350. Amst. 1703. 
 
 VOL. III. 3 D 
 

 
 386 
 
 CH\P. X. 
 
 Naxian 
 Boccaze. 
 
 ISLAND OF NAXOS. 
 
 the Antients called topaz, says it was the only gem that 
 admitted the impression of a file; that all other gems were 
 polished by means of the grin ding- stones of Naxos ' : and, in a 
 preceding part of his work, he speaks of Naxium as used in 
 polishing marble and gems 2 . The shepherds told us that 
 wild honey is found in great abundance in this island : the 
 children set out in parties to collect it, as in the other islands 
 of the Archipelago. From the rocks above Panormo Creek, 
 we had a fine view of the great cluster of islands lying 
 towards the south-east. 
 
 On Saturday, October the seventeenth, at sun-rise, we got 
 under weigh, with a light breeze from the north-west, and 
 steered for the south of the boccaze, or strait, between this 
 island and Paros. In passing up the channel, we were obliged 
 to use our oars ; but by ten o' clock a. m. we came to anchor 
 in the port, close to the town of Naxos, having nearly com- 
 pleted the tour of the whole island. We found only a few 
 boats in the harbour. The Greek sailors still preserve the 
 custom, mentioned by Homer, of hauling their vessels on the 
 shore, with the prows resting upon the beach : having done 
 this, they place the mast lengthwise across the prow and the 
 poop, and spread the sail over it, so as to form a tent ; then 
 beneath these tents they sing their songs, drinking wine 
 freely, and accompanying their voices with the lyre or 
 
 three- 
 
 (1) " Eadem sola nobilium limam sentit : ceterse Naxiis cotibus poliuntur." Plin. 
 Hist. Nat. lib. xxxvii. c. 8. torn. III. p. 542. L. Bat. 1035. 
 
 (2) " Signis e marmore poliendis. gemmisque etiam scalpendis atque limandis 
 Naxium diu placuit ante alia." Ibid. lib. xxxvi, c. 7. torn. III. p. 478. 
 
 ■ 
 
 RrT.'*" *-*•.•■»-,., 
 
ISLAND OF NAXOS. 
 
 3^7 
 
 CHAP X. 
 
 three-stringed viol : such a concert greeted our arri\aL 
 Being told that a Latin archbishop resided in the place, we 
 paid him a visit. The town makes a neat appearance from the Town of 
 harbour, but has altogether the character of an antient Greet 
 city when it is entered ; the streets being irregular, deep, 
 narrow, and dirty. We found upon the mart, near the 
 shore, large heaps of the most enormous green citrons we had 
 ever seen, ready to be removed on board some boats waiting 
 to convey this kind of freightage to Constantinople. They 
 are valued principally for their very thick rind, of which a 
 green sweetmeat is prepared : but we could hardly have 
 credited an account of the size to which this fruit here 
 attains. Some of these citrons were as large as a man's 
 head, and of the most singular forms ; consisting almost 
 wholly of the rind, with very little juice in any of them. 
 The archbishop received us very politely, and prepared a 
 dinner for us ; but we begged to make the best use of our 
 time, and therefore declined his invitation. By his kindness 
 we were admitted to the churches, which have the privilege 
 of being furnished with bells, as at Patmos. A Greek priest, 
 in answer to our inquiry for Manuscripts, produced from Manuscript*. 
 beneath an altar, lying upon the damp pavement of one of 
 the sanctuaries, a quarto Codex of selections from the Gospels, 
 written upon vellum for the use of the Greek Church : this, 
 as usual, had been condemned as soon as a printed copy 
 had supplied its place. We easily contrived to purchase it; 
 and afterwards obtained, for a small sum, by means of the 
 same priest, a similar Manuscript, apparently of the same 
 
 age, 
 

 
 wBBfflBBS^agBaam 
 
 »*V*S»<t 
 
 388 
 
 CHAP. X. 
 
 Inhabitants. 
 
 ISLAND OF NAXOS. 
 
 age. from one of the Greek families in the place 1 . In 
 this manner antient copies of the Gospels may be procured 
 in the Archipelago, by persons who will be at the pains to 
 seek for them ; as, in our own country, the rarest English 
 editions of the Scriptures may be found in counties at a 
 distance from the metropolis, where they have either been 
 banished from the churches to make way for more modern 
 Bibles, or laid up in store-rooms as waste paper in private 
 families, being too antiquated and inelegant in their appear- 
 ance for the taste of the owners 2 . 
 
 The want of a proper port for large 'shipping has saved 
 Naxos from many a visit on the part of the Turks. We 
 were told that not i. single Mahometan could be found in 
 the whole island, and that many of the inhabitants of the 
 interior had never seen a Turk ; but they sometimes ex- 
 perience the honour of a call from their masters, en passant ; 
 and then, " upon the arrival of the meanest commander of a 
 galliot," says Tournefort 3 , " neither Latins nor Greeks ever 
 dare appear but in red caps, like the common galley-slaves, 
 humbling themselves before the pettiest officer." As soon 
 as the Turks have left them, nothing is to be heard 
 but tables of their genealogy ; some deducing their origin 
 
 from 
 
 (1) These are the same Manuscripts mentioned by Professor Gaisford, Nos. 47, 48. 
 p. 100. of his Catalogue. Oxon. 1812. 
 
 (2) The author has seen old black-letter Bibles discarded in the chests of country 
 churches j and once found a copy of Miles Coverdales revised translation of the Scriptures 
 in the hands of' a Welch housekeeper who was preparing to use it in covering preserves. 
 
 (3) Tournef. Voy. du Levant. Lett. V. torn. I. p. 257. Lyon, 1717. 
 
ISLAND OF NAXOS. 
 
 389 
 
 from the Paleologi, or from the Cwnnenii ; others from the 
 noblest Venetian families*. The island was for three hundred 
 years the residence of princes appointed by the Venetians as 
 Dukes of the Archipelago ; from the beginning of the thir- 
 teenth century, when the Emperor Henry gave this title to 
 Marco Sanudo, until the expulsion by the Turks, under Selim 
 the second, of Giacomo Crispo, the twenty- first and last 
 duke. It is owing to this circumstance that the Venetian 
 costume still exists among the Latin ladies. That of the 
 Greek women is very remarkable ; but it has been already 
 described and accurately represented in Tournefort's Travels 5 . 
 We were unable to resist the hospitable importunity with 
 which some of the inhabitants invited us into their dwellings; 
 and might 'have sacrificed the w r hole of our time in going 
 from house to house, to be regaled with lemonade and 
 sweetmeats. Some of the ladies were very anxious to be 
 informed how the women of our island passed their time; 
 and whether the rich dresses of the Naxian women accorded 
 with the habits of English females of distinction. We 
 told them that English ladies of elevated rank aimed only at 
 simplicity in their dress; that, in our commercial country, 
 wealth was very often on the side of low birth ; and, con- 
 sequently, that expensive habits and costly ornaments, so 
 far from being the distinguishing characteristics of high 
 breeding, were generally considered as marks of vulgarity; 
 that the wives and daughters of our nobility wore the plainest, 
 
 and 
 
 chap. x. 
 
 (4) Tournef. ibid. 
 
 (5) Ibid. p. 228. 
 

 390 ISLAND OF NAXOS. 
 
 *. ( ,up,x ' i and generally the cheapest, apparel. Still their curiosity was 
 not satisfied : they wished we would tell them of what mate- 
 rials the dresses consisted; and whether any thing of the kind 
 could be had at Malta, or Constantinople : and in the evident 
 desire which they betrayed of imitating the London mode, 
 we were amused in thinking what sort of a metamorphosis 
 would be effected by the arrival of an English woman of 
 rank at Naxos : what discarding of brocade, and coloured 
 velvet, and embroidered vests, for British muslin and stuffs : 
 what scrambling for a few pieces of crape and cambric, if 
 such merchandize should arrive in the midst of the revolution: 
 how all the old family wardrobes, which had been handed 
 down in form and substance from the Justinianis, the 
 Grimaldis, and the Summaripas 1 , would give place to the 
 simplest English costume. As we had a variety of other 
 business to claim our attention, during the short stay we 
 intended to make, we put an end to a chain of inquiries that 
 redoubled after every answer, by promising to send all the 
 latest modes by the earliest opportunity, either from Paris 
 or London, 
 
 Population. The population has not been altered since Naxos was 
 
 visited by Tournefort : that of the whole island, including 
 the women, may be estimated at eighteen thousand persons: 
 about three thousand of this number are Latins, and the rest 
 are Greeks. During war, they pay forty purses as a tax tc 
 the Turkish Government, each purse being equivalent tc 
 
 five 
 
 (l) See Tournefort, p. 257. torn. I. Lyon, 1717- 
 
ISLAND OF NAXOS. 
 
 live hundred piastres. In time of peace very little impost is 
 levied. Their wine maintains its pristine celebrity, and we 
 thought it excellent. The Latin families live together in 
 the castle, or fortress, separated from the Greeks, not only by 
 situation, but by numberless petty feuds and jealousies. 
 We found fragments of a red porphyry here, much resem- 
 bling lava. In the evening it rained, which was quite a novel 
 spectacle to us at that time. The archbishop had again pre- 
 pared his table for us ; and, as we had refused his dinner, we 
 went to sup with him. He had also provided beds and every 
 other necessary convenience for our accommodation; but as 
 the impossibility of making any adequate return for such 
 civilities is often a painful reflection upon these occasions, we 
 determined to rough it out, as usual, in our caique. The 
 Greek houses of every description, it is true, swarm with 
 vermin ; but we could not pique ourselves upon the supe- 
 riority of our accommodation on board, even in this respect, 
 from the swarms of cock- roaches by which we were 
 infested : and some rats, the athlctce of their kind, during 
 the last night that we remained in Panormo Bay, actually 
 carried off,- not only the author's book of plants, filled with 
 specimens, but also a weighty Turkish poignard, tied up 
 within it, used for the double purpose of digging roots, and 
 as a weapon of defence. 
 
 Early the next day we landed to seek for some remains Antiquities. 
 of the antient city, which was nearly in the situation of 
 the modern town. The antiquities of Naxos relate almost 
 exclusively to the worship of Bacchus. The inhabitants are 
 still much addicted to drinking, and every medal and gem 
 
 of 
 

 
 CHAP. X. 
 
 392 ISLAND OF NAXOS. 
 
 of the island prove how prevalent the rites of Bacchus once 
 were. This god is represented bearded upon all the Naxian 
 coins and signets. We obtained several, which we shall 
 presently describe. Below the window of a house belonging- 
 inscriptions, to the Chancellor of Naxos, we found an Inscription, upon 
 the capital of a column, of an order in architecture unknown 
 to us. It was discovered by a monk, who was digging for 
 building materials among the remains of the antient city: he 
 found the shaft of the column near to it, and a small antique 
 lamp of terra-cotta. The pillar itself was* in all probability, 
 a sepulchral steU. The inscription is hardly worth pre- 
 serving, as it contains only a few names; but one is unwilling 
 to neglect the preservation of any Grecian relique, and 
 especially where few are found. 
 
 XAIHTOZKAI 
 
 HPOAOYKAiZE 
 
 AEYKOYKriOAXP 
 
 OY 
 
 AIOTENOY 
 K Al 
 
 AM MilNlOY 
 
 n po i^oz n po 
 
 KAOYKAI A AE 
 •AN APOYKAI 
 HI! I M OY 
 ZY 
 
 We 
 
ISLAND OF NAXOS. 
 
 393 
 
 We were afterwards shewn, upon the top of a house below 
 the walls of the fortress, a small slab, rather of Parian than 
 of Naxian marble (the grain being finer than in the latter) 
 containing an inscription of great antiquity : the letters 
 were small ; and they were exceedingly well cut, like some 
 of the inscriptions which have been found in Troas, of the 
 age of the Seleucidae. The names of Aristotle, Socrates, 
 Theocritus, and Alexander, inscribed upon the same marble, 
 somewhat excited our curiosity ; but, after all, we did not 
 find a single fact stated in this inscription: it consists only 
 of a list of names ; and many of these are lost, owing to the 
 injury the stone has sustained. 
 
 EnirYMNAZIAPXOYAnO 
 
 KAIYnOTYM . . OYZEKA . . .OI 
 
 YriEINOYTOYAriOAAO .... TOY.. .. H*H B . . . 
 ZINOI APIZTOTEAHZAPIZTOTEAOYZ . . . <t>ANOZZftZ 
 <t>ANOAIKOZZnZTPATOY.NIKAIOZM....TOYeEOrEI . . 
 ZfiZIMOYnOAAO . . . APZIAPXOY . . . Z I A Efll* I AOI . . 
 nOllAIOZAPEAAIOZZKP . . ^1 . . . NAXEHZNEOTEPO 
 
 EYTYXOZP. . . NAIOYIIY. . . n M AKYAPIZTOAHN 
 
 GEOKAEIAOYNEMEK . . . ITOE HZTOZIIEPITO 
 
 0EO<M AOZ0EOKAEI MftNNIKHPATOZ 
 
 KTHZl4>nNTOZ EMHNNIKAIOY 
 
 KAEftNY nOYHMEPOZ 
 
 AHMHTPIOI . HPAZ ZINOI . . AYAOZ 
 
 KAIAIKIOZATA OAOZ . . KAEIAOYZHZAN APOZ 
 
 NIKANAPOYNIKANAPOZNIKAN APOYAH MHTPIOZ 
 EniNIKOYMAPKOZnOAAIOZMAPKOYAEKMOZ 
 AY<MAIOZZnOPIOYZi2KPATHZNIKIOY 
 0EOKPITOZeEOKPITOYAYAOZZOA<J>IKIOZ 
 AYAOYAAEZANAPOZAPTEMX2NOZAEYKIOZ 
 ZEHTIAIOZZnOPIOYTPY<l>nNXAPMI 
 AOY . . Y . . HPETHZAPTEMX2N 
 vol. in. 3 E We 
 
 CHAP. X. 
 

 CHAP. X. 
 
 394 ISLAND OF NAXOS. 
 
 We copied this inscription with difficulty, being continually 
 interrupted by the exorbitant demands of the woman to 
 whom the house belonged. She positively refused to sell 
 the marble, having a superstitious notion that it prevented 
 evil spirits from coming to her dwelling: after insisting 
 upon a payment of thirty piastres for a sight of it, she 
 allowed us to copy it for a hundred parahs, but not without 
 continual interruption, and the most clamorous entreaty 
 for more money. 
 
 sculpture. We had sufficient employment afterwards, among many 
 
 valuable antiquities. Every fragment of the anticnt sculpture 
 of Naxos denoted the most splendid a?ra of the art ; but 
 Bacchus was all in all. The fragment of a marble bust of the 
 God, crowned with vine leaves, was shewn to us, of the most 
 perfect sculpture; but the price set upon every thing proved 
 our approximation to western countries, and that the inter- 
 course between this island and Italy had taught them how to 
 appretiate the works of Grecian artists. An antient weight 
 had been dug up, of an oblong square form, with its handle, 
 neatly cut in marble: this we brought away: it weighs exactly 
 four pounds, seven ounces and a half. A Greek had recently 
 
 Medals. discovered a vessel of terra cotta, containing some small bronze 
 
 coins of Naxos, of the finest die, exhibiting the head of the 
 bearded Bacchus in front, and a diota on the reverse, with the 
 legend NAZIHN : we bought ten of these. The author had 
 also the good fortune to procure a silver medal of the island, 
 of such uncommon rarity, that it is believed there is not a 
 duplicate of it in any collection in Europe. It has on the 
 front a bearded head of Bacchus; and for reverse, the diota, 
 with the letters N A. It is wonderful, considering the 
 
 wealth 
 
ISALND OF NAXOS. 
 
 395 
 
 wealth and population which the testimony of Herodotus 
 proves the Island of Naxos to have possessed, that its coins 
 should be so scarce, and generally so paltry ; while those of 
 its Sicilian colony, so much less noticed in history, are by no 
 means uncommon ; and for size and workmanship the latter 
 are among the finest examples of art extant. 
 
 Visiting as usual the working silversmiths, we found 
 among them several gems. The first was a carnelian with 
 the figure of a goat, a symbol of Bacchus: the second, which 
 we could not obtain, represented a whole length figure of 
 the God, reeling, decorated with vine-leaves and grapes, 
 and followed by a dog; he held a thyrsus in one hand, 
 and a diota in the other turned bottom upwards, as a 
 proof that he had emptied the contents of the vase. Upon 
 another gem, which we were also unable to purchase, we 
 observed an altar, supporting a bust of Bacchus crowned 
 with vine-leaves, in a very singular attitude, with its mouth 
 open, as if making a libation of the effects of intoxication: 
 around it appeared the letters of his name, YODYNOIA, 
 written, in very antient charactei*s, from right to left. At 
 the house of the Chancellor, from whom we experienced 
 the most hospitable attention, we saw the hand of an 
 antient statue, executed in the best style of Grecian sculpture, 
 and certainly not inferior to any thing yet discovered. Also, 
 near to his house, the torso and bust of a military figure, 
 with a robe over the shoulder, of the most exquisite work- 
 manship. The sculpture of the island appeared to be 
 generally of the sort of marble called Parian, whether 
 found in Paros or in Naxos; and the remains of works in 
 
 archi- 
 
 CHAP. X. 
 
 Gems. 
 

 
 396 
 
 CM\I» X. 
 
 Colossal 
 Statue. 
 
 Temple of 
 Bacchus. 
 
 ISLAND OF NAXOS. 
 
 architecture to have been executed in the splendid, broader- 
 grained, and sparry marble, which is more peculiar to the 
 Kaxian quarries : but neither the one nor the other exhibited the 
 smallest appearance of that false lustre and glittering surface 
 which has sometimes, and very improperly, been supposed 
 to characterize works of art executed in the marble of these 
 islands 1 . Age had given to all a warm and beautiful tint 
 of a yellow colour: and, to the eye, every fragment seemed 
 to possess the softness and consistency of wax or of 
 alabaster. The Chancellor told us, that in the interior of the 
 island, at the distance of three hours from the town, near 
 to some antient marble quarries, there yet remains an 
 unfinished colossal statue, as he said, of Apollo, but evidently 
 of Bacchus, with a bearded countenance, sixteen feet in 
 length 4 . A public fountain near to the town is still con- 
 sidered by the inhabitants as the fountain of ariadne, 
 and it is called by that name. Some traces of antient works 
 which may yet be discerned near to this fountain shew that 
 it has long been held in more than usual consideration. 
 
 Being unable to undertake a journey into the interior, we 
 next visited the ruins of a Temple of Bacchus, upon an 
 insular rock on the north side of the port. The portal of that 
 
 temple 
 
 (1) " Le marbre Grec est a gros grains crystallins, qui font de faux jours, et qui 
 sautent par petit eclats, si on ne le menage avec soin." Tournef. Voy. du Lev. Lett. V. 
 torn. I. p. 241. Lyon, 1717. 
 
 (2) Mr. Hamilton, author of JEgyptiaca, with his companions, afterwards visited 
 Naxos, and saw this statue of Bacchus. It is of such enormous size, that Mr. Hamilton's 
 party spread a cloth upon the beard, and made it serve as their table for breakfast. 
 
ISLAND OF NAXOS. 
 
 temple has been long famous, and an account of it is given in 
 every book of travels where Naxos is mentioned. We shall 
 therefore not detain the Reader with any dissertation as to 
 the probable history of the temple, but simply describe what 
 we saw. It is asserted, that the isle was once connected with 
 Naxos by means of a bridge and an aqueduct : the author of 
 the " Voyage Pittoresqae de la Grece ,J says that its vestiges are 
 yet visible 3 : we did not observe them, when we were upon 
 the spot. It is an error to suppose, as many have affirmed, 
 that nothing remains of the temple but this portal, although 
 it be true that little else can be seen. Considering the pains 
 that have been lately bestowed by many of our English 
 travellers in making excavations in different parts of Greece, 
 it is rather extraordinary that no person has been induced to 
 lay open the site of this remarkable building, where there 
 are no Turks to interfere with the workmen, and where 
 there is almost a certainty of reward for their trouble. 
 For our part, we had not the means of carrying on such 
 works ; but we uncovered a part of the soil, and discovered 
 a beautiful capital of a Doric pillar, thereby ascertaining the 
 order of architecture observed in the building. We were 
 struck with admiration at the massive structure and the 
 simple grandeur of that part of the temple which still 
 remains standing: it consists of three pieces only of the 
 Naxian marble, two being placed upright and one laid 
 across. Below these are large square masses, which belonged 
 
 to 
 
 397 
 
 CHAP. X. 
 
 (3) Voy. Pittor. torn. I. p. 43. Paris, 1782. 
 

 398 ISLAND OF NAXOS. 
 
 chap.x. to the threshold; and this consisted of three pieces only 1 . 
 The view through this portal, of the town of Naxos with 
 its port, and part of the island, is very fine. We endeavoured, 
 by a sketch made upon the spot, to preserve a memorial of 
 the scene; and it has been since rendered more perfect, 
 without interfering with the fidelity of the representation 2 . 
 The mountain seen to the left is probably A I A, now called 
 Z'ia, whence the island was formerly named. We brought 
 away some large specimens of the marble which lies in 
 fragments near the portal : it is so much softer and more 
 laminary than the Parian, that the difference between the 
 two kinds is easily to be recognised by fracture. It is 
 singular that no account of a building of such magnificence 
 should be preserved in any author. Ptolemy, as it is observed 
 by Tournefort, seems to mention an antient city upon which 
 it is probable that the modern town of Naxos is built 3 ; but 
 no allusion to this small isle and its temple occurs in any 
 antient description of Greece, notwithstanding all that has 
 been said of Naxos, by Herodotus, by Appian, and by other 
 writers. From this isle we returned to conclude our 
 researches in Naxos. 
 
 The citadel was constructed under Marco Sanudo, the 
 
 first 
 
 (1) Tournefort ascertained the dimensions of the portal: according to him, (see 
 torn. I. Lett.V. a Lyon, 1717) it is eighteen feet high, and eleven feet three 
 incnes broad; the lintel is four feet thick; the two uprights are four feet thick, aid 
 three feet and a half broad. All the parts, he says, were cramped with copper, lor he 
 found small pieces of that metal among the ruins. 
 
 (2) See the Plate annexed, from a drawing by Mr. H. Wright of Magdalen College, 
 Cambridge. ■ 
 
 (3) Ncf£ov N>/<roi/ j] 7r6Xic. Ptol. Geog. lib. iii. cap. 15. 
 
ISLAND OF NAXOS. 
 
 399 
 
 first duke of the Archipelago; and the antient palace of his v chap, x. 
 successors was the large square tower which is now other Ruins, 
 remaining within this circular fortress 4 . Near to a small 
 chapel beneath its walls, we found a Cippus, representing 
 two female figures, in bas-relief. There is not a house in 
 the town that has not some relique of this kind near to it; and 
 similar remains in the interior are very common. The 
 inhabitants told us, that there are two places where ruins and 
 inscriptions are found ; the one called Apollonon, and the 
 other a village which bears the name of Philotes. They 
 spoke of ruins at two hours distance from Naxos, towards 
 the east, and offered to conduct us to them : but the journey 
 would have detained us another dav ; and we were afraid of 
 loitering at this season of the year with such a vessel as ours 
 upon a doubtful speculation, and therefore refused to go. 
 Nothing happened to us more extraordinary than our almost 
 unaccountable neglect in not visiting the Emery mines: this 
 arose partly, as has been stated, from the alarm into which 
 we had been thrown upon our first coming to the island, 
 which made us forget to inquire after them ; and also in 
 some degree from not rightly comprehending the meaning of 
 the term Smeriglio, when the exports were stated to us : we Smerigiw. 
 would willingly have bartered the time which we spent in 
 copying, and in procuring permission to copy, an imperfect 
 and unintelligible inscription, for the opportunity of making a 
 few observations upon the Naxian Corundum, of which they 
 have two varieties, very different in their qualities. They find 
 
 also 
 
 (4) Tournef. Voy. du Lev. torn. I. Lett. V. Lyon, 1717. 
 

 CHAP. X. 
 
 400 ISLAND OF PAROS. 
 
 also abundance of Marcasite, or sulphuret of iron : this was 
 mentioned to us by the Chancellor, but we were not told 
 what use they made of it. Formerly it was employed in 
 the manufacture of ear-rings and bracelets in England ; and 
 buttons are yet made of it in Birmingham, which have for a 
 short time almost the lustre of real brilliants. 
 
 At eight o'clock a.m. October the 19th, we found our 
 vessel entering the harbour of Naussa 1 , at the northern 
 extremity of the Isle of Paros ; having availed ourselves of 
 the land breeze in the night to leave Naxos. This is the 
 principal port for large vessels; but as our object was to 
 Parechia. get to Parechia, the chief town, we ordered our men to 
 
 bear 
 
 Arrival at 
 Paros. 
 
 (l) See the Vignette to this Chapter. This must be the Porto Ausa of Dapper. 
 (Descript. des Isles de V Archipel, p.l6l. Amst.1703.) Tournefort mentions Nausa, 
 or Agousa (torn. I. Lett.Y. p. 241. Lyon, 1717) : ar,c * an author who accompanied 
 Mons. de Nointel, during his Voyage in the Archipelago in 1673, writes it Agosa 
 (L'Etat present de V Archipel de Monsieur M.D.L. Cologne, 1678. p. 57.) " Udpor 
 s^u Kaarpa Svo, teal \o>pa jula. 1. TlapijKia, ETnaKovdro. 2. KMaAoc, Kdarpo. 
 3. 'Ayoora. Ins. Paros habet castra duo, et unam civitatem. 1. Parikiam, episcopatum. 
 2. Kephalon, castrum. 3. Augustam." (Fid. Martini Crusii Annotationes in Epistolas 
 Doctorum, p. 207 '• Turcogrcncice. Basil, sine anno.) Sonnini calls it Naussa. (Trav. 
 in Greece, p. 454. Lond. 1801.) These particulars are noted, because Paros may 
 hereafter excite the notice of our Government. It was in this port that the Russians 
 established the depot of their forces, when they promised to restore liberty to Greece, 
 and became the scourge of the inhabitants j desolating the finest works of antiquity 
 wherever they went. There is no harbour in Greece better calculated for a national esta- 
 blishment. Fleets may lie there in perfect safety, and in the very center of the 
 Archipelago. The Turks make no use of Paros themselves : and, viewed only with 
 regard to the abundance of its valuable marble, it ought to be considered as an island 
 of importance to a nation vain of its distinction in the Fine Arts. A very fine Chart of 
 this harbour has been engraved in the " Voyage Pittoresque de la Grece," with all the 
 soundings, &c. as it was surveyed by Kauffer in 1776 ; shewing the situation of the 
 Russian magazines and fortifications. See PI. xxxi. p. 70. torn. I. Paris, 1782. 
 
ISLAND OF PAROS. 
 
 bear down the western side of the island. This island is 
 surrounded by harbours, and that of Naussa alone is said 
 to be capable of containing a hundred vessels. 
 
 A contrary wind soon after met us ; in consequence of 
 which we landed, and walked about three miles ; meeting in 
 the first Greek we saw a proof of that hospitality which is 
 so common in the Archipelago. He was the owner of a house 
 in Paros to which he invited us ; saying that his son should 
 be our guide to the marble quarries, and that he would shew 
 us all the antiquities in the neighbourhood. We accom- 
 panied him ; and made a hearty meal upon salted olives, 
 grapes, boiled pumpkins, and Parian wine. Our boat did not 
 arrive until ten at night. Parechia is a wretched relique of 
 the antient and famous Paros. Every building in the place, 
 but particularly the Castle, bears some evidence of its 
 pristine splendor, and of the havoc that has ensued. 
 
 October the 20th, the Waiwode of Paros, who is a native 
 of Tenos sent as Governor to collect the taxes, but not con- 
 stantly resident, came to visit us, and offered to shew to us 
 the Castle. In the walls of this building we saw some 
 columns which had been placed horizontally among the 
 materials used in building it ; and their butt-ends, sticking 
 out, were singularly inscribed with the letter A, placed close 
 to the cavity intended for the reception of the iron instru- 
 ment called by modern architects the Louis'" ; either as a 
 
 mark 
 
 (2) The name of this dove-tailed instrument is in general use among architects ; but 
 it is not found in any English Dictionary. Its origin is very uncertain : the French call 
 the same instrument Louve. Piranesi, in his third volume of the " Magnificcnza di Roma" 
 mentions having found stones in antient buildings in which there were cavities for an 
 instrument of this dove-tailed shape. 
 
 VOL. III. 3 F 
 
 401 
 
 CHAP. X. 
 
 Castle. 
 
HI MM| 
 
 402 ISLAND OF FAROS. 
 
 chap, x. mark by which to adjust the several parts of the shaft, 
 or as a curious method of preserving the initial of the 
 architect's name ; so that it could not be seen until the 
 building became a ruin. An instance of a similar nature 
 occurred at Telmessus, where the name of Hermolycus had 
 been carefully inscribed, but in such a manner as to be 
 concealed from observation when the building was entire : 
 this letter may therefore possibly relate to Amphilochus, " the 
 glory of whose art," in an inscription found at Rhodes', 
 was said " to reach to the mouths of the Nile, and to the 
 utmost Indus." The entrance to the interior is of very 
 singular form, being as wide as one entire side of the Castle. 
 It is truly lamentable to view the wreck of beautiful sculp- 
 ture, visible not only in the construction of this fortress, but 
 all over the town of Parechia, the wretched remnant of a 
 
 inscriptions. city famous for the birth of Phidias and of Praxiteles. We 
 
 copied part of an inscription yet existing in the Castle wall : 
 
 AHPHZAZANE0HKEN 
 A P XniMTOCJU EN 
 
 Also near to a windmill we found inscribed, "Niciratus 
 
 son of Alc^us :" 
 
 Nl KHPATOX 
 A A K A I OY 
 
 It may be said, perhaps, that these inscriptions are hardly 
 
 worth preserving; but instances have occurred in which 
 
 even such scraps have not been without utility, in adding to 
 
 the general stock of literature. We afterwards found an 
 
 inscription of greater length : it was in the left-hand 
 
 door- 
 
 (1) See the former Section, Chap. VIII. p. 228. 
 
 *fc$W&mmiimiir*~**-r~-.. 
 
ISLAND OF PAROS. 
 
 door- way of the Chapel of St. Nicholas, in the Church of 
 St. Helen, the stone being placed in an inverted position. 
 It states that " The son of Theocles, who had conducted 
 
 HIMSELF WELL IN THE OFFICE OF AGORANOMOS, TWICE, IS 
 
 crowned with a golden crown." The legend requires 
 a little restoration, which is here marked by dotted letters. 
 
 HBOYAHKAIOAHMOZETIMHZEN 
 
 KA;£ZTE<t>ANnZENXPYZftZTE*\A.NO. 
 
 NI2NmPYTON0EOKAEOYZArO 
 
 PANOMHZANTAAIZKAAnZKA^ 
 
 AiKAIHZKATETOYZNOMOYZKAi 
 
 KATATOKOINONnAZIZYM<l>EPON 
 
 In a wall of the court we observed a Lectisternium, in bas- 
 relief; but it had been whitewashed, and this made it difficult 
 to copy an inscription upon the marble. In one part of the 
 stone there appeared, in small characters : 
 
 403 
 
 TOETOSAAESANAPOT 
 
 ipoMoipnJEsmSAJ 
 
 Below this were some figures in a reclining posture ; and 
 then followed, in larger letters : 
 
 ZnXAPMOYnAPAl 
 
 EniKAIEZ<t>0IMENO 
 
 EITAPKAiriAYPAZEn 
 
 AZIOZAINEIZOAI 
 OP<t>ANAMENMOPAIT 
 
 KEIZOnnAIZIXPON 
 
 The four last lines in this inscription were evidently in 
 metre, as we may judge from the beginning of each : 
 
 Ei yoig kcci ircLugois 
 A%iog aivfttrQcti 
 
 Kg7<r#<y tockti %gov - - 
 
 Similar 
 
 chap. x. 
 
*w>.'^ : 
 
 
 404 
 
 CHAP, X. 
 
 ISLAND OF PAROS. 
 
 Similar imperfect remains may be observed in all parts 
 of the town, which have been used for building materials, and 
 generally white- washed. Near the house of the Imperial 
 Consul, facing the street, we saw this inscription in the 
 wall : " Dionysius, son of Euschemon, farewell :" 
 
 AIONYCIOC 
 EYCX H MONOC 
 XPHCTEXAIPE 
 
 Two forms of the Sigma are observable in this inscription. 
 That the C and Z were used promiscuously in very antient 
 times, has been frequently shewn. The C w r as of the highest 
 antiquity, and certainly in use prior to the aera of the first 
 Punic War 1 . The C appears on coins and marbles of very 
 antient date 2 . Somewhat farther on, in another street, 
 we found an inscription relating to " a daughter of 
 Agathemeris :" 
 
 ZCJUCAPIN . . On A A-- 
 
 ©YrATHPAe 
 ATA0HM6PIAOC 
 
 It is impossible to assign any date to these inscriptions ; in 
 which not less than three different forms of a single letter 
 may be observed : but this want of uniformity is no proof of 
 the age of the writing. 
 
 This day, as the Governor offered to accompany us to see 
 
 the 
 
 (1) Torremuzza Inscript. di Palermo, p. 237- 
 
 (2) See Paciandis Observations on Medals, bearing the legend LAHII2N and 
 OP0HCIEHN. Mon. PelL34. 
 
ISLAND OF PAROS. 
 
 405 
 
 the famous Grotto of Antiparos, and as our host had prepared 
 mules and guides for the expedition, we set off at eight a. m. 
 and rode by the side of a mountain, through corn fields, until 
 we came to the narrowest part of the channel, between 
 Paros and Antiparos. Paros seemed to be in a higher state 
 of cultivation than Naxos. The island produces excellent 
 oil, and abundance of wine. Its ripe olives are highly 
 esteemed by the natives as an article of food, after being 
 salted for one day : this sort of diet has been often deemed, 
 by inconsiderate English travellers in Italy and Greece, 
 very hard fare for the poor inhabitants: but it is one of their 
 greatest luxuries ; and we became as fond of it as the people 
 everywhere seem to be from one extremity of the Mediter- 
 ranean to the other. As soon as we reached the shore from 
 which we were to pass over to Antiparos, we observed a 
 large Turkish merchant ship, laden with soap, and bound 
 from Crete to Constantinople, stranded in the middle of the 
 strait. The master of the vessel, without any compass, and 
 with the usual fatality attending his countrymen in their sea 
 voyages, had relied upon an ignorant pilot, who had persuaded 
 him that this was the greater boccaze between Naxos and 
 Paros, and the ship in consequence was driven upon the 
 shallows. We went on board, and found the master squatted 
 within his cabin, smoking, and listening to a duet performed 
 by two of his crew upon a drum and a lyre, while the rest 
 were gone in search of people to assist in hauling the vessel 
 off the rocks. Nothing could exceed his perfect Moslem 
 indifference ; for although it seemed to be doubtful whether 
 his vessel would ever move again, or, if she did, whether she 
 
 would 
 
 chap. x. 
 
 Ship stranded. 
 
giftcapw i.«jw 
 
 
 406 
 
 CHAP. X. 
 
 Antiparos. 
 
 Grotto. 
 
 Its possible 
 Origin. 
 
 ISLAND OF ANTIPAROS. 
 
 would not go to the bottom in consequence of the damage 
 she had sustained, he would not stir from the seat where he 
 had remained from the moment the accident happened. 
 
 We landed upon the barren island of Antiparos, and 
 were conducted by the Governor to a small village : here 
 we found a few inhabitants, who were described to us as the 
 casual legacies of different vessels, and principally Maltese, 
 taken by corsairs, and left on shore to shift for themselves. 
 Some of them provided us with mules, ropes, and candles for 
 the grotto, which is situated near the summit of the highest 
 mountain of Antiparos, in the south part of the island. As 
 we rode along, our beasts were terrified by the attacks of 
 the gad-fly, an insect which infests every one of the Cyclades. 
 Having reached the top of the mountain before mentioned, 
 we came to the mouth of this most prodigious cavern, which 
 may be described as the greatest natural curiosity of its 
 kind in the known world. The entrance to it has nothing 
 very remarkable : it is beautifully represented in the Voyage 
 Pittoresque of De Choiseul Gouffier ' ; but no book of travels 
 ever did or ever can pourtray the beauties of the interior. 
 As to its origin, it may possibly have been a very antient 
 mine, or a marble quarry, from the oblique direction of the 
 cavity, and the parallel inclination of its sides. The rock 
 immediately above it consists of the following substances. 
 The upper surface or summit of the mountain is a stratum 
 of limestone, inclined very considerably from the horizon : 
 
 beneath 
 
 (l) See Plate xxxvi. p. 72. torn. I. Par. 1782. 
 
Mode of 
 Descent. 
 
 ISLAND OF ANTIPAROS. 
 
 beneath this is a layer of schistus, containing the sort of marble 
 called Cipolino, that is to say, a mixture of schistus and marble : 
 then occurs the cavity which forms the grotto, parallel to the 
 dipping inclination of the superior strata, and this cavity was 
 once probably occupied by a bed of marble, succeeding in 
 regular order to the superincumbent schistus ; but this is 
 mere hypothesis ; and any traveller who enters the grotto 
 will soon perceive, that all the theories he may form have 
 been set at nought by Nature, in the darksome wonders of 
 her subterraneous laboratory. We may therefore come at 
 once to the practical part of the inquiry. The mode of 
 descent is by ropes, which on the different declivities are 
 either held by the natives, or they are joined to a cable which 
 is fastened at the entrance around a stalactite pillar. In this 
 manner, we were conducted, first down one declivity, and 
 then down another, until we entered the spacious chambers 
 of this truly enchanted grotto. Having visited the stalactite Description of 
 caverns of the Gulph of Salcrnum upon the coast of Italy, 
 those of Terni, and many other places, the author expected 
 to find something similar here ; but there is nothing which 
 resembles this grotto. The roof, the floor, the sides of a 
 whole series of magnificent caverns, were entirely invested 
 with a dazzling incrustation as white as snow. Columns, 
 some of which were five and twenty feet in length, pended 
 in fine icicle forms above our heads : fortunately some of 
 them are so far above the reach of the numerous travellers 
 who, during many ages, have visited this place, that no one 
 has been able to injure or to remove them. Others 
 extended from the roof to the floor, with diameters equal to 
 
 that 
 

 wv^w*: *.-***:•.> fi&atk* t,aw»;*»S«<)*P»ft« 
 
 -|^BB $$W9M&pi^e»«^«»g^^ 
 
 ISLAND OF ANTIPAROS. 
 
 that of the mast of a first-rate ship of the line. The 
 incrustations of the floor, caused -by falling drops from the 
 stalactites above, had grown up into dendritic and vegetable 
 forms, which first suggested to Tournefort the strange notion 
 of his having here discovered the vegetation of stones. 
 Vegetation itself has been considered as a species of crystalli- 
 zation 1 ; and as the process of crystallization is so surprisingly 
 manifested by several phenomena in this grotto, some 
 analogy may perhaps be allowed to exist between the plant 
 and the stone ; but it cannot be said that a principle of life 
 existing in the former has been imparted to the latter. The 
 last chamber into which we descended surprised us more by 
 the grandeur of its exhibition than any other ; and this 
 seems to have been the same which Tournefort intended to 
 represent by the wretched view of it given in his work 2 . 
 Probably there are many other chambers below this, yet 
 unexplored, for no attempt has been made to penetrate 
 farther 3 : and if this be true, the new caverns, when opened, 
 would appear in perfect splendor, unsullied, in any part of 
 them, by the smoke of torches, or by the hands of intruders ; 
 for although, in the general whiteness of the grotto, as it 
 now appears, the partial injuries its beauty has sustained be 
 
 not 
 
 (1) See Patrin, Hist. Nat. torn. III. pp. 130, 146. Par. An Q. Lametherie, &c. &c. 
 
 (2) Voyage du Levant, torn. I. p. 227. a Lyon, \y\7- A better idea of it may be 
 formed by seeing the.beautiful Plate engraved by Tilliard, from a drawing of the interior 
 by Hilair, in the Voyage Pittoresque, torn. I. p. 74. Paris, 1782. 
 
 (3) Tournefort mentions an opening of this kind : " A cote de cette tour se voit 
 un trou par oii Ton entre dans une autre caverne, mais personne n'osa y descendre." 
 Voy. du Lev. torn. I. p. 231. 
 
ISLAND OF ANTIPAROS. 
 
 not at first perceived, there are proofs that, in the course 
 of time, by the increased frequency of the visits paid to 
 it, and the damage caused by breaking the stalactites to 
 remove as curiosities, the splendid effect produced by the 
 whole must be diminished. After this general description, it 
 will now be proper to give a more philosophical detail of 
 our observations upon its natural history. 
 
 The substance itself which is thus deposited is purely Nature of the 
 alabaster; that is to say, it is a concretion of carbonated lime 
 which was employed by the Antients in the manufacture 
 of their unguentary vases 9 ; and it is distinguished bv its 
 chemical constituents from the alabaster of modern times, 
 or gypsum, which is a sulphat of lime. The formation of the 
 carbonated alabaster by the stalactite process is now so well 
 known, that its explanation may be comprehended in very 
 few words. Nothing is more common than the presence of 
 carbonic acid in water ; and when a superabundance of this 
 acid is present, the fluid is capable of sustaining, in solution, 
 a portion of lime carbonate ; but upon the slightest agitation, 
 or division, or exposure to atmospheric air, or change of 
 temperature, the carbonic acid makes its escape, and the 
 fluid, thus losing its solvent power, necessarily lets fall the 
 lime. All this is very simple, and very easily comprehended. 
 The 
 
 (2) " There came unto him a woman having an alabaster box of viry 
 precious ointment." (Matthew xxvi. 7.) The author found among the ruins of 
 the city of Sais, in Egypt, the fragment of one of the unguentary vases of the Antients : 
 it consists of white carbonated alabaster. Pliny says, that the best alabaster was of 
 the colour of honey, and that it was a defect in the stone to be white and translucid. 
 The alabaster of Antiparos is of a honey colour, like to that which comes to us from 
 Gibraltar in a manufactured state. 
 
 VOL. III. 
 
 3 G 
 
■MMlMNMMMMiNMMMMHMNBR 
 
 
 410 
 
 CHAP.X. 
 
 Paradoxical 
 Phenomena. 
 
 Crystalliza- 
 tion of 
 Alabaster. 
 
 ISLAND OF ANT1PAROS. 
 
 The paradox remains now to be stated: it is this; that these 
 enormous stalactites, thus formed during a series of ages 
 by the slow and gradual deposition of lime-water, filtering 
 drop by drop from the roof of the cavern, offer concentric 
 layers only towards their superficies ; their interior structure 
 exhibiting a completed crystallization, which separates by 
 fracture into semi-transparent rhombs, as perfectly formed 
 as if they had resulted from a simultaneous instead of a 
 continued process. Almost every mineralogist may have 
 noticed a rhomboidal termination of the small translucid 
 stalactites which are found at Castleton in Derbyshire ; but 
 there the operation has been carried on in water, a globule 
 of which has remained constantly suspended at the point of 
 each stalactite ; but in this grotto, crystallization has been 
 the result of a modification sustained by the whole interior 
 of a mass of alabaster, subsequently to its original deposition. 
 That the cavern has neither been filled with water, nor with 
 any other fluid than atmospheric air, is very evident, by the 
 formation of the stalactites, which could not otherwise have 
 existed as they now appear. Every thing belonging to them, 
 and to this cavern, will tend to perplex and to confound the 
 naturalist ; and many proofs of this are yet to follow. In 
 the different cavities, and between the interstices of the 
 stalactites, we had the satisfaction to discover, what no one 
 has hitherto noticed, — the crystallization of alabaster, 
 in distinct groups of large rhomboidal primary crystals, 
 upon the exterior surface of the several concretions : and 
 that these crystals were gradually accumulating in size, 
 until they met together and constituted one entire mass, was 
 
 evident, 
 
ISLAND OF ANTIPAROS. 
 
 evident, because, upon a diligent examination of all parts of 
 the grotto, we found, that where the stalactites were small, 
 and in an incipient state, the crystals upon their surface 
 were exceedingly minute ; where they were large, the crystals 
 were also large, some of them exceeding two inches in 
 diameter. Another surprising fact is, that although the 
 outer crust of these crystals be opaque, and similar to the ex- 
 terior incrustation of the concretions themselves, the crystals, 
 when broken, are, each and all of them, integral parts of 
 the stalactite upon which they have been formed. We care- 
 fully detached a great variety of specimens, to illustrate and 
 to confirm these observations ; and although the Waiwode 
 who accompanied us, like a child craving the toy which 
 amuses another, insisted upon having the finest specimen, 
 under the pretext of presenting it to his ignorant patron the 
 Capudan Pasha, we had the good fortune to bring many of 
 these specimens to England, and to the University of Cam- 
 bridge, where they have been annually exhibited during the 
 Mineralogical Lectures. It was in that University, when 
 the author was engaged in shewing them to the celebrated 
 Tennant, now Professor of Chemistry there, that the Professor 
 noticed among the stalactites one which was remarkably 
 distinguished from the rest by its fascicular structure, 
 by its superior hardness, and by the appearance of rays 
 diverging from a common centre towards the circumference 1 . 
 
 Its 
 
 411 
 
 Cll\P. x. 
 
 (l) A similar formation was noticed by Tournefort: "Distingue*, par six cercles 
 concentriques, dont les fibres vont du centre a la cir confer en re." (Voy. du Lev. torn. I. 
 p. 228. Lyon, 1717) It is remarkable that the same writer denies the dropping of 
 water in the grotto — " // ne tombe pas une seule goutte d'eau dans ce lieu." Ibid. 
 
 ' 
 
I ^H ■ Mi?J ■ ■ J 
 
 Arragonitt. 
 
 ISLAND OF ANTIPAROS. 
 
 Its fracture is not rhomboidal: and its dispersion into 
 a powder, by heat, exhibits the still mouldering appear- 
 ance of arragonite, — and not the decrepitation of such par- 
 ticles of carbonated lime as contain water, of which specific 
 nature are the generality of the stalactites in this grotto. 
 From all these circumstances Professor Tennant had no 
 doubt of its being arragonite, and in the stalactite 
 form, which has never before been noticed. Indeed the 
 mineral itself has hitherto been so rare, that were it not 
 for the attention shewn to it, and the interest excited, in 
 consequence of its being the only anomaly in Hauy's theory 
 of crystallization, very little of its real history would be 
 known ; nor can there be a greater inducement now offered 
 to naturalists to visit the Grotto of Antiparos, than the 
 discovery thus made of a new locality of this curious mineral. 
 Another singular circumstance in the history of the grotto is, 
 that the incisions made by persons who have formerly in- 
 scribed their names in the alabaster, have not only been 
 filled up, but the letters so marked have since protruded in 
 relief from the surface of the stone ; and this has hitherto 
 received no explanation. Some Greek inscriptions near the 
 entrance, also noticed by Tournefort, prove that the grotto 
 was visited in a very early period. One of them, which he 
 has preserved very entire, mentions that a number of persons, 
 whose names are subscribed, " came thither during the 
 administration of Criton." 
 
 EH! 
 
 Bsltefl* mm 
 
ISLAND OF ANTIPAROS. 
 
 En i 
 
 KPITHNOZ 
 OIAEHA0ON 
 MENANAPOZ 
 IOXAPM OI 
 M EN EKPATH £ 
 ANTin ATPOI 
 
 innoM EAiiN 
 
 APIITEAZ 
 4>l A E AZ 
 
 roproi 
 
 AIOTENHI 
 <M AO KPATHZ 
 
 ONEZIMOZ 
 
 Monsieur de Nointel, French ambassador to Constan- 
 tinople, seems to have flattered himself that he was the first 
 person who had ever ventured into this cavern 1 . During 
 Christmas, in the year 1 673, he caused mass to be celebrated 
 in the grotto, at midnight; remaining here three entire days, 
 accompanied by upwards of five hundred persons. The 
 cavern was then illuminated by four hundred lamps, and 
 one hundred large wax flambeaus ; the elevation of the 
 host was accompanied by the music of trumpets, hautboys, 
 fifes, and violins, as well as by the discharge of artillery 
 
 placed 
 
 Visit of 
 the French 
 Ambassador. 
 
 (1) " Monsieur le Marquis de Nointel, ayant entendu dire, qu'il y avoit dans l'autre 
 isle voisine, nommee Antiparos, une grotte ou personne n'osoit entrer, y voulut de- 
 scendre la veille de Noel. Je m'orrris a" l'y accompagner, &c." L'Etat present de 
 I'Archipelt de Mons. M. D.L. a Cologne, 1678. p. 65. Premiere Partie. 
 

 5SES PS " P£ RHS" H 
 
 414 
 
 CHAP. X. 
 
 Oliaros. 
 
 Antient 
 Quarries of 
 Parian Marble. 
 
 RETURN TO PAROS. 
 
 placed at the entrance of the cavern. Two Latin inscriptions 
 yet record this subterranean solemnity, which may be con- 
 sidered as ascertaining the epocha of the first visit paid 
 to the grotto in modern times. In the words which the 
 Ambassador caused to be inscribed upon the base of the 
 stalagmite which supplied him with an altar for the occa- 
 sion, we have a striking example of the Roman-Catholic 
 faith, as to the miraculous presence of the Messiah in the 
 consecrated wafer : 
 
 HIC . IPSE . CHRISTVS • ADFVIT 
 
 EJVS • NATALI • DIE • MEDIA • NOCTE 
 
 CELEBRATO . MDCLXXIII. 
 
 The channel between the two islands is not more than 
 a mile wide : but it is two leagues from the port of Anti- 
 paros to that of Paros. It was this distance which convinced 
 Tournefort that Antiparos is the island called Oliaros, or 
 Olearos, by the Antients. We returned to Paros highly 
 gratified by our very interesting expedition, and carefully 
 packed the specimens we had collected. 
 
 Wednesday, October the twenty-first. This day we set 
 out upon mules for the antient quarries of the famous Parian 
 marble, which are situated about a league to the east of the 
 town, upon the summit of a mountain, nearly corresponding 
 in altitude with the situation of the Grotto of Antiparos. 
 The son of our host, a young married man, accompanied us. 
 We rode through several olive plantations in our ascent: 
 the fruit of these trees was the sole topic of conversation 
 with our worthy guide, who spoke of a ripe olive as the 
 
 most 
 
ISLAND OF PAROS. 
 
 415 
 
 CHAP. X. 
 
 most delicious dainty which Heaven had vouchsafed to man 
 upon earth ; giving him greater strength, vigour, and agility, 
 than any other kind of food. "Oh!" said he, smacking 
 his lips, " how we feast at my father's, when olives first come 
 into season." The mountain in which the quarries are 
 situated, now called Capresso, is believed 1 to have been the 
 Marpessus mentioned by Servius 2 and by Stephanus Byzan- Marpanu. 
 tints 5 : there are two of those quarries. When we arrived 
 at the first, we found, in the mouth of the quarry, heaps 
 of fragments detached from the interior: they were tinged, 
 by long exposure to the air, with a reddish ochreous hue, 
 but, upon being broken, exhibited the glittering sparry 
 fracture which often characterizes the remains of Grecian 
 sculpture; and in this we instantly recognised the beauti/ul 
 marble which is generally named, by way of distinction, 
 the Parian, although the same kind of marble be also 
 found in lliasos" ; and it is remarkable that the inhabitants 
 of Thasos were a Parian colony 5 . The marble of Naxos only 
 differs from the Thasian and Parian in exhibiting a more ad- 
 vanced state of crystallization. The peculiar excellence of the 
 
 Parian 
 
 (1) See Tournefort (Voy.duLev. torn. I. p. 23Q. Lyon, 1717) and the following 
 authorities by him cited. 
 
 (2) " Marpesos mons est Pariae insulae." Servius in sEneid. vi. 
 
 (3) MAPITE22A oftoi: Tlupov d<f ov oi \i6oi ifaipovrai. Stephanus Byzantinus. 
 L. Bat. l(J94. 
 
 (4) For this remark the author is indebted to Mr. Hawkins, the publication of 
 whose Travels in Greece has long been anxiously expected by all who know the 
 industry of his researches and the superior accuracy of his observations. 
 
 (5) 'Ytto c)£ Wapiuv cKTiffdr] Qdaos. Stralon. Geog. lib. x. p. /l\. Oxon. 1807. 
 

 416 
 
 CHAP. X. 
 
 Cause of the 
 Prevalence of 
 Parian Marble 
 in Grecian 
 Sculpture. 
 
 ISLAND OF PAROS. 
 
 Parian is extolled by Strabo ' ; and it possesses some valuable 
 qualities unknown even to the Antients, who spoke so 
 highly in its praise 2 . These qualities are, that of hardening 
 by exposure to atmospheric air (which however is common 
 to all homogeneous limestone,) and the consequent propertv 
 of resisting decomposition through a series of ages, — and 
 this, rather than the supposed preference given to the -Parian 
 marble by the Antients, may be considered as the cause of 
 its prevalence among the remains of Grecian sculpture. 
 That the Parian marble was highly and deservedly extolled 
 by the Romans, has been already shewn; but in a very early 
 period, when the Arts had attained their full splendor in 
 the age of Pericles, the preference was given by the Greeks, 
 not to the marble of Paros, but to that of Mount Pentelicus ; 
 because it was whiter ; and also, perhaps, because it was 
 found in the immediate vicinity of Athens. The Parthenon 
 was built entirely of Pentelican marble. Many of the 
 Athenian statues, and of the works carried on near to 
 Athens during the administration of Pericles, (as, for ex- 
 ample, the Temple of Ceres at Eleusis,) were executed in the 
 marble of Pentelicus. But the finest Grecian sculpture 
 which has been preserved to the present time is generally 
 of Parian marble. The Medice'an Venus, the Belvidere Apollo, 
 
 the 
 
 (1) 'Ev c?t rrj Tldpa ij Uapia \idoi Xtyojxtvt], dpiarrj Trpoc rt}y p.app.apoy\v<hiav. 
 Stralon. Geog. lib.x. p.7\\. Oxon. I8O7. 
 
 (2) " Paros, cum oppido, ab Delo xxxvm mill, marmore nobilis ; quam primo 
 Pactum (MS. Plateam), postea Minoida vocarunt." Plin. Nat. Hist. lib. iv. c. 12. 
 L. Bat. 1635. torn. I. p. 223. 
 
 
ISLAND OP I'AROS. 
 
 417 
 
 CHAP. X. 
 
 the Antinous, and many other celebrated works, are of Parian 
 marble ; notwithstanding the preference which was so early- 
 bestowed upon the Pentelican : and this is easily explained. 
 While the works executed in Parian marble retain, with all 
 the delicate softness of wax, the mild lustre even of their 
 original polish, those which were finished in Pentelican 
 marble have been decomposed, and sometimes exhibit a 
 surface as earthy and as rude as common limestone. This 
 is principally owing to veins of extraneous substances 
 which intersect the Pentelican quarries, and which appear 
 more or less in all the works executed in this kind of 
 marble. The fracture of Pentelican marble is sometimes 
 splintery, and partakes of the foliated texture of the schistus 
 which traverses it ; consequently it has a tendency to 
 exfoliate, like Cipolino, by spontaneous decomposition. 
 
 We descended into the quarry, whence not a single 
 block of marble has been removed since the island fell into 
 the hands of the Turks ; and perhaps it was abandoned 
 long before ; as might be conjectured from the ochreous 
 colour by which all the exterior surface of the marble is 
 now invested. We seemed therefore to view the grotto 
 exactly according to the state in which it had been left by 
 the Antients : all the cavities, cut with the greatest nicety, 
 shewed to us, by the sharpness of their edges, the number 
 and the size of every mass of Parian marble which had been Q uarnes 
 removed for the sculptors of Antient Greece. If the stone had 
 possessed the softness of potter's clay, and had been cut by 
 wires, it could not have been separated with greater nicety, 
 evenness, and economy. The most evident care was every- 
 
 vol. in. 3 h where 
 
 Marvellous 
 skill of the 
 Antients in 
 working the 
 
T WW ywWBW^BSCTWWtggBWWijj MRU 
 
 >? I ^i^'^'^AlRh tW"^' d*w*A* H J*^J»^/.i*J*Ali-_. v-^^".^*_H!*fc*?'l«2l"*3 
 
 ^^^^Bff 
 
 Bas-relief. 
 
 ISLAND OF PAR OS. 
 
 where displayed that there should be no waste of this 
 precious marble : the larger squares and parallelograms 
 corresponded, as a mathematician would express it, by a 
 series of equimultiples with the smaller, in such a manner 
 that the remains of the entire vein of marble, by its dipping 
 inclination, resembled the degrees or seats of a theatre. It 
 was impossible to view such a source of materials which had 
 exercised the genius of Grecian sculptors, without fancying 
 that we could ascertain the different works for which 
 the several masses had been removed. " Here," said we, 
 " were slabs for Metopes and Triglyphs; there, were blocks 
 for altars and Doric capitals ; here was an Apollo ; there, 
 a Venus; that larger cavity may have supplied a mass for a 
 Laocoon ; from this place they perhaps removed a Soros ; 
 the columns taken hence had evidently divided shafts, there 
 being no cavity of sufficient length to admit the removal of 
 entire pillars.^ These and similar observations continually 
 escaped us : but who shall explain the method used by the 
 Antients in hewing, with such marvellous precision, and 
 with such apparent ease, the interior of this quarry, so as 
 neither to leave one casual fracture, nor any where to waste 
 its produce ? They had very little knowledge of machinery ; 
 but human labour was then of little value, and the most 
 surprising works may always be referred to ages when this 
 was easily obtained. 
 
 We quitted the larger quarry, and visited another some- 
 what less elevated. Here, as if the Antients had resolved 
 to mark for posterity the scene of their labours, we observed 
 an antient bas-relief upon the rock. It is the same which 
 
 Tournefort 
 
ISLAND OF PAROS. 419 
 
 Tournefort describes ' ; although he has erred in stating the , ^ HAP> ^ , 
 subject of it. It is a more curious relique than is commonly 
 supposed. The French have twice endeavoured to remove it, 
 by sawing the marble behind ; but perceiving that it would 
 separate into two parts if they persisted, owing to a 
 fissure in the stone, they had the good taste to abandon the 
 undertaking. The subject is literally a Grecian Caricature. It 
 represents, in three departments, a festival of Sile?ius, mistaken 
 by Tournefort for Bacchus. The demigod is figured in the 
 upper part of it as a corpulent drunkard, with ass's ears, 
 accompanied by laughing satyrs and dancing girls. A female 
 figure is represented sitting, with a fox sleeping in her lap. 
 A warrior is also introduced, wearing a Phrygian bonnet. 
 There are twenty-nine figures; and below is this inscription: 
 
 A A A M AX 
 OAPYIHI 
 N Y M <1>A I Z 
 
 which may be thus rendered into English, " Adamas Odryses Ex p'anati<m 
 
 J ° of the 
 
 to the Lasses," for by Nymphs were intended unmarried Iuscri P tiou - 
 women 2 . Chandler, in his Travels in Greece, describes the 
 Nymphceum near Vary in Attica, and gives three inscrip- 
 tions 3 , one of which purports that " Archidamus made the 
 Cave for the Nymphs." In another inscription, found in the 
 same Cave of the Nymphs, the latter part, whether designedly 
 
 or 
 
 (1) Voy. du Lev. torn. I. p.23g. a Lyon, \7\7- 
 
 (2) See Diod. Sic. Biblioth. Hist. lib. iii. Animad. ad Stat, part 2. Also Tournefort, 
 tom. II. p. 240. Lyon, 1717. 
 
 (3) See Inscript. Antiq. p. 76. 
 
420 
 
 ISLAND OF PAROS. 
 
 CHAP. X. 
 
 Origin of 
 the Work. 
 
 or not, is an Iambic trimeter 1 . In the Corycian Cave, 
 the existence of which was discovered by the author in a 
 subsequent part of these Travels, although he did not then visit 
 the place 2 , some of his friends found an inscription to Pan and 
 the Nymphs 3 ; therefore this kind of dedication was common in 
 Greece. The marble in both these quarries was excavated by 
 the lightof lamps; and to this circumstance Pliny attributes one 
 of its names, Lychnites*. The same appellation occurs also 
 in Athenaeus 5 . With regard to the image of Silenus, in the 
 bas-relief, it has never been observed that Pliny mentions it 
 as a natural curiosity, and one of the marvels of Antient 
 Greece. The figure of Silenus was accidentally discovered, 
 as a lusus Natnrce, in splitting the rock ; and, of course, 
 all the other parts of this piece of sculpture had been 
 adjusted by Odryscs to the natural representation, when 
 he dedicated his work to the young women of the island. 
 Such a method of heightening and of improving any casual 
 effect of this kind has been very common in all countries, 
 especially where the populace are to be deluded by some 
 supposed prodigy : and thus the cause is explained why 
 this singular piece of sculpture, so rudely executed, yet 
 
 remains 
 
 (1) <bpa£aZ<ji Nvju<f>wi> iivTpov ifyipyrjactTO. 
 
 (2) See " Tomb of Alexander," p. 153. Camb. 1805. 
 
 (3) Tlavirv/iKpatc. The inscription was discovered by Mr. Raikes, in company with 
 Mr. Gell, Mr. Dodwell, and others. Mr. Raikes found also a small terra- cotta vessel, 
 elegantly formed, which the Antients had left, as an ex voto, in the cave. 
 
 (4) " Omnes autem candido marmore usi sunt e Paro insula, quern lapidem coeperc 
 Lychniten appellare, quoniam ad lucernas in cuniculis csederetur." Plin, Hist. Nat. 
 lib. xxxvi. c.5. torn. III. p. 468. L. Bat. 1625. 
 
 (5) Aldog Av^ni/'t, Athen. Deipn. lib. v. 
 
ISLAND OP PAROS. 
 
 421 
 
 affords. 
 
 remains as a part of the natural rock ; whence it would be ' chap.x. 
 an act of worse than Gothic barbarity to remove it. "A won- 
 derful circumstance," says Pliny 6 , "is related of the Parian 
 quarries. The mass of entire stone being separated by the Evidence it 
 wedges of the workmen, there appeared within it an effigy 
 of Stxenus." In the existence of this bas-relief "as an integral 
 part of the natural rock, and in the allusion made to it by Pliny, 
 we have sufficient proof that these were antient quarries 7 ; 
 consequently they are the properest places to resort to for the 
 identical stone whose colour was considered as pleasing to 
 the Gods 8 , which was used by Praxiteles 9 and by other illus- 
 trious Grecian sculptors, and celebrated for its whiteness by 
 
 Pindar 
 
 (6) " Sed in Pariorum mirabile proditur, gleba iapidis unius cuneis dividentium soluta, 
 imaginem Sileni intus extitisse." Plin. Hist. Nat. lib.\xx\i. c.5. torn. III. p. 468. 
 L. Bat. 1635. 
 
 (7) This curious las-relief, together with the entrance to the quarry which contained 
 it, are represented in the Voyage Pittoresque of Count de Choiseul Gouffier, (Voyage 
 Pittoresque de la Grece, tome I. p. 68. Paris, 1732.) but with more attention to the 
 effect of a beautiful picture than to accuracy of design. The plates in that magnifi- 
 cent work are almost equal in their style of composition, and in their execution, to the 
 engravings of Audran, from paintings by Le Brun ; and that to which allusion is now 
 made is faithful in every thing, except in the detail of this piece of antient sculpture. 
 A reference to the French work will, however, serve to shew its situation in the quarry, 
 and render unnecessary any further attempt at delineation, where the manner of it must 
 necessarily be so very inferior. The antiquity itself is the greatest curiosity in the 
 island ; and perhaps, from the circumstance which Pliny has mentioned, it will excite 
 the attention of travellers more than it has hitherto done. 
 
 (8) Plato de Leg. torn. II. lib. xii. p. 296. 
 
 (9) Praxitelem Paria vindicat arte lapis" Propertius, lib. iii. Eleg. vii. 16. Also 
 Quinctilian. lib. ii. 19. " Praxiteles signum aliquod e molari lapide conatus est exscul- 
 pere, Parium marmor vellem rude:" &c. See also a curious Treatise of Blasius Caryo- 
 philus (vulgh Biagio Garofolo, JScupolitanus), entitled " De Antiquis Marmoribus 
 Opusculum," p. 10. Utrecht, 1743 : and the numerous authors therein cited. 
 

 
 I 
 
 422 
 
 CHAP. X. 
 
 ISLAND OF PAROS. 
 
 Pindar 1 and by Theocritus 3 . We collected several speci- 
 mens : in breaking them we observed the same whiteness and 
 brilliant fracture which characterizes the marble of Naxos, but 
 with a particular distinction before mentioned — the Parian 
 marble being harder, having a closer grain, and a less foliated 
 texture. Three different stages of crystallization may be 
 observed, by comparing the three different kinds of marble, 
 dug at Carrara in Italy, in Paros, and in Naxos ; the Carrara 
 marble being milk-white 3 and less crystalline than the 
 Parian; and the Parian whiter 4 and less crystallized than the 
 Naxian : lastly, as a completion of the process, may be 
 mentioned the stalactites, or alabaster, of Antiparos ; in 
 which the same chemical constituents are perfectly crystal- 
 lized, exhibiting the rhombo'idal fracture and the specific 
 gravity of the Iceland spar, which, in all probability, is 
 
 also 
 
 (1) Vid. Nem. Ode IV. p. 262. Genev. 1626. 
 
 ^LrdXctv Qifitv Tlapiov 
 AiOov XevKortpav. 
 
 (2) Theocritus (Idyll, vi. 38.) compares the whiteness of teeth with Parian marble : 
 
 TWV %'<■ t oZovtmv 
 
 AevKorlpav avydv TIapla<; virityatvt XiOoio. 
 
 (3) Pliny mentions the superior whiteness of the Carrara marble, in comparing it with 
 the Parian. The quarries of Carrara are the Lunensian of that author; Luna being 
 the name of a city, and Lunensis that of a promontory near to the modern Carrara. 
 " Multis postea candidioribus repertis, nuper etiam in Lunensium lapidicinis." Plin. 
 Hist. Nat. lib.xxxv'u c.5. torn. III. p. 468. L. Bat. 1635. 
 
 (4) Although the Parian was not the whitest marble known to the Antients, as 
 appears by the preceding Note, yet its whiteness was one cause of its great celebrity. It 
 is thus described in the Itinerary of Antoninus : 
 
 INSVLA PAROS 
 
 IN HAC LAFiS CANDIDISSIMVS NASCITVK 
 
 ttVI DICITVR PARIVS. 
 
 «M«tfM,.i 
 
ISLAND OF PAROS. 
 
 423 
 
 also a stalactite. These phaenomena do oppose striking facts t CHAP - x - 
 to the Plutonian theory of the crystallization of carbonated Theory of 
 
 J * Crystalliza- 
 
 lime by means of heat and pressure: not that the author tion « 
 wishes to maintain any argument against the possibility of 
 crystallization by means of heat, because all that seems 
 necessary for crystallization is a separation of particles, and 
 a subsequent retreat. Whether this separation be effected by 
 solution, or by fusion (which is only another name for 
 solution) ; and whether the retreating body be an aqueous 
 fluid, or the fluid matter of heat ; a regularity of structure 
 may equally become the result : basaltic forms have been 
 recognised in the bottom of a furnace 5 , as well as upon the 
 borders of a lake 6 . The facts now adduced are opposed, it 
 is true, to the Plutonian theory ; because they prove the 
 crystallization of carbonated lime by an aqueous process : but 
 they affect this theory only as a system which generalizes too 
 much from partial appearances, in explaining the formation 
 of mineral bodies. 
 
 (5) A specimen exhibiting a basaltic configuration, as found in the bottom of an iron 
 furnace, is preserved in the Royal Collection at Stockholm. 
 
 (6) Witness the lakes in the South of Sweden ; the Lake of Bolsenna in Italy y 
 the Lake of Gennesareth in the Holy Land ; &c. Sec. 
 
 

 
 • 
 
 CHAP. XI. 
 
 Voyage to 
 Syros. 
 
 CHAP. XI. 
 
 PAROS TO ATHENS. 
 
 Voyage to Syros — Affecting Interview — Syr a — Plants — Remains of 
 AnUent Customs — Gems and Medals — State of the Island — Voyage 
 to Gyarus — Hydriots — Wretched Condition of Jura — Voyage to 
 lixa. — Carthcea — Ravages committed by the Russians — Ruins of 
 Ioulis — Medals — Hospitality of the Modern Greeks — Antient 
 Dances — Produce of Zia — Minerals — The Author sails for Athens 
 — View near the Mouth of the Sinus Saronicus — Sunium — Temple 
 q/'Minerva Sunias — Anecdote of a Naval Officer — Patrocleia — Other 
 Islands in the Saronic Gulph — Calaurea — Albanians — Elimbo — 
 First Sight of Athens — Zoster Promontory — Doubtful Story of 
 Minerva s Statue — Arrival at the Piraeus — Approach to Athens. 
 
 J* rom the quarries of Marpessus we descended again to 
 Parechia ; and the next day, the wind being favourable, 
 although somewhat boisterous, we embarked, and set sail 
 for Syros, now called Syra. Our Captain would have 
 steered for Delos : but this island, since the visit paid to it 
 
 by 
 
VOYAGE TO SYR OS. 425 
 
 by the Russians, has been stripped of all its valuable anti- t CHAP,XL . 
 
 quities ; besides this, the gale we had encountered between 
 
 Patmos and Naxos had somewhat intimidated us ; and as 
 
 our crazy old caique was not sea-worthy, we resolved to 
 
 run for the most western port in our course towards the 
 
 Saronic Bay, now called the Gulph of Engia from a modern 
 
 name of the Island of Mgina. We saw the Delian Isles as 
 
 we passed with a rapidity known only to the swallows 1 of the 
 
 Archipelago, and entered the harbour of Syra in the morning 
 
 of October the twenty- second. Our faithful Greek servant, 
 
 who had travelled with us as our interpreter ever since we 
 
 left Petersburg, burst into tears at the sight of a small chapel 
 
 constructed upon a rock in the port, which he had himself 
 
 assisted in building some years before. He described it as the 
 
 votive offering of a party of young Greeks to their patron 
 
 Saint : but his feelings experienced a severer trial when we Affecting 
 
 Interview* 
 
 landed ; for in the person of an old man, established as a 
 wine-seller upon the quay, he recognised his own father, 
 of whose fortunes and situation he had long been ignorant. 
 The islanders bore a part in the joy of this meeting ; and 
 their national hospitality was, in consequence, redoubled. 
 All the young people came to express their congratulations, 
 and a party began the Romdca*. Antonio hastened again on 
 
 board 
 
 3Bi 
 
 (1) This is one of the names given to the boats used for navigating the Archipelago. 
 
 (2) The Romeca, the most popular of all the dances of the Modern Greeks, is 
 faithfully and beautifully represented in the Voyage Pittoresque de la Grece of Count 
 De Choiseul Gouffier, from a drawing by /. B. Hilair, engraved by Martini. See Plate 
 facing p. 68. vol. I. of that work, Paris, 1/82. "The passion of the Greeks for 
 
 VOL. III. 3 I dancing,", 
 
426 
 
 ISLAND OF SYROS. 
 
 CHAP. XI. 
 
 Syra. 
 
 board for his balalaika 1 , and, joining the festive throng, 
 gave himself up entirely to singing and dancing for the 
 remainder of the day and night. Towards evening we saw 
 him in the midst of a very numerous choir, inviting us to 
 taste of the wine with which his father was making libations 
 to all comers. 
 
 The town of Syra is built upon the summit of a lofty 
 hill, so remarkable for its conical form that it may be com- 
 pared to a vast sugar-loaf covered with houses. At the base 
 of this cone is the quay, where there are several warehouses 
 for supplying vessels with the produce of the island, which is 
 principally wine. There are some ruins near the port; and 
 many antient marbles are said to remain buried behind the 
 magazines. We met the English Consul soon after we 
 landed, and accompanied him to his house in the town ; 
 where we were regaled with an excellent conserve, highly 
 esteemed by the Greeks, made of the apples (as they are called) 
 of a species of Sage, the Salvia pomifera: these apples are pro- 
 duced in the same manner as galls upon the oak, and they are 
 owing to punctures made by a species ofCynips in the branches 
 of the plant. The common Sage of the Island of Crete has the 
 same excrescencies; which are there carried to market under 
 the name of sage-apples' 1 . This conserve is said to possess 
 
 the 
 
 dancing," (says Mons. De Guys, vol. I. p. 208. Lond. 1781.) " is common to both sexe>; 
 
 who neglect every other consideration, when they have an opportunity of indulgirg 
 that passion." 
 
 (1) The antient guitar of Scythia and Tartary. See Part I. of these Travels, Plcte 
 facing p. 244. Second edit. Br oxbourn, 1811 ; exhibiting its use among the Calmuck 
 
 tribes. 
 
 (2) Tournef. Voy. du Lev. torn. I. p. 93. Lyon, 1717- 
 
ISLAND OF SYROS. 
 
 427 
 
 the healing and salutary quality of Sage in general: we 
 perceived in it an agreeable astringent, and somewhat bitter 
 favour; but as almost any vegetable may be used for 
 conserves, and the savour is often owing to other ingredients, 
 very little of this taste might be owing to the produce of 
 the Sage. The plant itself thrives abundantly upon this 
 island, growing to the size of a small shrub. Sage leaves are 
 collected annually by the Greeks, and dried, to be used medi- 
 cinally as an infusion : they are very particular in the time 
 and manner of collecting these leaves ; they are gathered on 
 the first of May, before sun-rise. The flavour and smell of the 
 Grecian Sage is much more powerful than in the Salvia offici- 
 nalis, so common in the English gardens. We sometimes drank 
 an infusion of the leaves, instead of tea : it had the effect of 
 exciting a profuse perspiration, and perhaps may be useful in 
 those dangerous obstructions to which perspiration is liable 
 in an Eastern climate ; but it produces languor, and even 
 faintness, if it be used in any excess. In mentioning the 
 plants of Syra, there is one of so much beauty and rarity that 
 it ought not to pass without especial notice : it is called 
 the Tree Pink, Dianthus Arboreus, and pre-eminently 
 merits its lofty name of AI02 AN0O2. It grows also in 
 Seriphos : but Syra is the only place in all Greece whence 
 we were able to obtain specimens ; and we did not find 
 these ourselves upon the island 3 . Perhaps the season was 
 
 too 
 
 CHAP. XI. 
 
 (3) We were indebted for tliem to the kindness of Mr. Dodwell, who visited Syra 
 in company with Mr. Gell. The former has since distinguished himself by his indefa- 
 tigable researches in Greece, particularly by the attention he has bestowed upon the 
 antient sepulchres of the country. 
 
 Plants. 
 

 428 
 
 CHAP. XT. 
 
 Remains of 
 
 Antient 
 
 Customs. 
 
 ISLAND OF SYROS. 
 
 too far advanced to observe this beautiful ornament of 
 the Grecian Isles ; for we were unable to find many other 
 rarities which have been described as natives of Syria, 
 although we remained two days in search of them, parti- 
 cularly the plant which produces the Persian Manna, 
 mentioned by Tournefort 1 , Hedysarum Alhagi. The Dianthus 
 arboreus, both in Syra and in Seriphos 2 , sprouts out of 
 the crevices of the most rugged and otherwise barren rocks. 
 It was raised from seed in the Royal Garden at Paris, in the 
 time of Tournefort ; " where," says that author 3 , " it has 
 sustained no change by its altered situation, but maintains 
 the honours of Greece amidst an infinite number of rare 
 plants from the same country." No traveller has yet added 
 this very uncommon species of Dianthus to the botanic 
 gardens of our island. 
 
 There is no other town or village upon the island 
 excepting this which so singularly covers the sugar-loaf 
 hill above the quay; and the number of inhabitants does 
 not exceed four thousand, almost all of whom profess the 
 Catholic religion : yet there is no part of the Archipelago 
 where the traveller will find the antient customs of Greece 
 more purely preserved. Syros was the original name of the 
 town, as well as of the island. Some traces of its ruins still 
 
 exist 
 
 (1) Tournefort. Voyage du Levant, tom.ll. p. 4. Lyon, 1717. It is the Alhagi 
 Maurorum of Rauwolf. Sir George Wheler found it in Tinos. Manna is found on this 
 plant in Mesopotamia and in other Eastern countries. (See Russel's Aleppo.) It grows 
 plentifully near Tauris. 
 
 (2) Tournef. Voy. du. Lev. torn. I. p. 219. (3) Ibid. 
 
 ^SSmmammm-f 
 
ISLAND OF SYROS. 
 
 429 
 
 exist near the port. The modern town of Syr a probably 
 occupies the site of the antient Acropolis. The island has 
 been always renowned for the advantages it enjoys, in the 
 excellence of its port, in its salubrity, and its fertility. It is 
 thus extolled by Homer 4 : 
 
 Ey (2oto g, evftqXog, ohoir'kriQrjg, iroXvvvPog . 
 It produces wine, figs, cotton, barley, and also wheat, 
 although not so plentifully as barley. We saw an abun- 
 dance of poultry, and a very fine breed of pigs ; but the 
 streets of the town are as dirty and as narrow as they 
 probably were in the days of Homer. If the antient Persians 
 have been characteristically described as the worshippers of 
 jire, the inhabitants of Syra, both antient and modern, may 
 be considered as the worshippers of water. The old fountain, 
 at which the nymphs of the island assembled in the earliest 
 ages, exists in its original state ; the same rendezvous as it 
 was formerly, whether of love and gallantry, or of gossiping 
 and tale-telling. It is near to the town, and the most 
 limpid water gushes continually from the solid rock. It is 
 regarded by the inhabitants with a degree of religious vene- 
 ration ; and they preserve a tradition that the pilgrims of 
 old time, in their way to Delos, resorted hither for purification. 
 We visited the spot in search of an Inscription mentioned 
 by Tournefort % but we could not find it : we saw, however, 
 a pleasing procession, formed by the young women of the 
 island, coming with songs, and carrying their pitchers 
 
 on 
 
 CHAP. XI. 
 
 (4) Odyss. O. v.405. 
 
 (5) Tournef. Toy. du Lev. torn. II. p. 4. Lyon, 1^17. 
 
i.*f»«»x** $K4£*lMi»> 
 
 430 
 
 CHAP. XI. 
 
 ISLAND OF SYROS. 
 
 on their heads, from this fountain. Here they are met by 
 their lovers, who relieve them from their burdens, and bear 
 a part in the general chorus. It is also the scene of their 
 dances, and therefore the favourite rendezvous of the youth 
 of both sexes. The Eleusinian women practised a dance 
 about a well which was called Callichoms, and their dance 
 Was also accompanied by songs in honour of Ceres. These 
 " So?igs of the Well" are still sung in other parts of Greece 
 as well as in Syra. De Guys mentions them. He says that 
 he has seen the young women in Prince's Island, assembled 
 in the evening at a public well, suddenly strike up a dance,, 
 while others sung in concert to them 1 . The Antient Poets 
 composed verses which were sung by the people while they 
 drew the water, and were expressly denominated " Songs of 
 the Well" Aristotle, as cited by Winkelmann, says the 
 public wells serve as so many cements to society, uniting 
 the people in bands of friendship by the social intercourse 
 of dancing so frequently together around them 2 . This may 
 serve to explain the cause of the variety of beautiful lamps, 
 pitchers, and other vessels of terra cotta, which have been 
 found at the bottom of wells in different parts of Greece ; 
 as well as to direct the attention of travellers towards the 
 cleansing of dry wells, who are desirous of procuring those 
 valuable antiquities. Among other antient customs still 
 existing in Syra, the ceremonies of the vintage are particu- 
 larly conspicuous. Before sun-rise, a number of young 
 
 women 
 
 (1) Letters on Greece, vol. I. p. 220. Loud. 1/81. 
 
 (2) Ibid. 
 
ISLAND OF SYROS. ' 
 
 women are seen coming towards the town, covered with the 
 branches and leaves of the vine ; when they are met or 
 accompanied by their lovers, singing loud songs, and joining 
 in a circular dance. This is evidently the orbicular choir 9 
 who sung the Dithyrambi, and danced that species of song 
 in praise of Bacchus. Thus do the present inhabitants of 
 these islands exhibit a faithful portraiture of the manners 
 and customs of their progenitors ; the ceremonies of antient 
 Greece have not been swept away by the revolutions of 
 the country : even the representations of the theatre, the 
 favourite exhibitions of the Attic drama, are yet beheld, as 
 they existed among the people before they were removed 
 from the scenes of common life to become the ornaments of 
 the Grecian stage. 
 
 Some verv fine gems and medals were shewn to us by Gems and 
 
 J D Medals. 
 
 a native of Syra ; but the price he demanded for them 
 exceeded all moderation. One of the gems was of high 
 antiquity. It was an intaglio of red jasper; the subject 
 Pegasus, with wings inflected towards the head, in the most 
 antient style of the art; a boar was also introduced, with 
 the singular representation as of a battering ram projecting 
 from its breast. Among the medals there were two of silver, 
 in good preservation. The first was of Chios : it exhibited 
 in front a winged sphinx, and for reverse the diota, with 
 this legend, APrElOX XIOZ. The other was very small, but 
 of extraordinary beauty ; probably it was of Clazomence in 
 
 Ionia, 
 
 (3) 'EynvKktoc \opo<;. See De Guys, vol. I. p. 218 5 and the authors by him cited. 
 

 432 
 
 CHAP. XI. 
 
 State of the 
 Island. 
 
 ISLAND OF SYROS. 
 
 Ionia, and possibly of Cititim in Cyprus'. The head of a 
 youthful Deity appeared in front, in very high relief; and the 
 reverse, equally prominent, exhibited the image of a ram 
 couched. Among all the subjects represented upon Grecian 
 medals, nothing is more rare than the figure of this very 
 common quadruped. Almost every other sacred animal may 
 be observed : but the sheep, so often the object of sacrifice^ 
 not only seldom occurs, but when it has been found upon 
 an antient medal, it is always upon one of the highest anti- 
 quity, destitute of any legend, and which generally classes, 
 in numismatic collections, among coins of uncertain or of 
 unknown origin. The cause of this has not been explained. 
 The minerals of Syra are rather remarkable, considering 
 the prevalence of limestone among the Grecian Isles. We 
 found fragments of green steatites and. schistus containing 
 garnet. The mercury in Fahrenheit's thermometer stood at 
 75' at noon, on the first day after our arrival, and at 78 
 upon the second ; which is the average temperature of the 
 city of Naples, during the summer months, situated above 
 three degrees nearer to the pole : and as the climates 
 both of Italy and Greece are very regular, this autumnal 
 temperature in Syra is about commensurate to the dif- 
 ference of latitude. There is not a Turk to be found upon 
 the island ; its inhabitants are all Greeks ; and as they profess 
 the Catholic religion, it might have afforded a comfortable 
 asylum for many of those expatriated Frenchmen who 
 
 were 
 
 (l) See the Vignette to Chap. XI. Part II. of these Trav. Sect. l. 
 
 ■*- 
 
VOYAGE TO GYARUS. 433 
 
 were driven by the calamities of their country all over the ™ AP XL , 
 Levant ; some of whom we had seen in places of residence 
 less suited to their circumstances, and where they were 
 exposed to inconveniences which they would not have 
 encountered in this healthy and wealthy island. 
 
 Saturday, October the twenty- fourth, a light wind voyage to 
 
 J . Gyartts. 
 
 tempted us to weigh anchor at three a. m. intending to sail 
 for Ceos, now called 2,'ia. After we left the port, we were 
 becalmed : but about eight, we found ourselves to be near to 
 the Island of Tenos ; and at nine, the wind coming aft, we 
 bore away for Gyarus, now called Jura. After we had 
 doubled the northern point of Syra, we saw the Promontory 
 of Eubo3\, called Carpharde ; also Andros, Jura, and Z'ia. 
 Jura is only twelve geographical miles from the nearest point 
 of Syra ; it is now almost uninhabited, but we were curious 
 to visit a spot alluded to by Juvenal 2 as a place of banishment 
 for Roman criminals : and soon afterwards we landed. The 
 Master of our caique wished to sail between some rocks 
 into the harbour, and for this purpose desired us to ascend 
 the heights, and point out a passage for the vessel. When 
 we had done this, we clearly discerned the rocks below the 
 surface, and were much amazed at the very great depth in 
 the water which our situation enabled us to view. Being 
 within hearing of the crew, we called to them, and gave 
 them instructions how to steer; by which means the caique 
 was conducted through a gorge where none but Greek 
 sailors w 7 ould think of venturing. While we were in this 
 
 situation, 
 
 (2) " Aude aliquid brevibus Gyaris et carcere dignum." Juv. Sat. 
 VOL. III. 3 K 
 

 
 
 434 
 
 CHAP. XI. 
 
 Hydriots. 
 
 BAY OF JURA. 
 
 situation, looking down upon the vessel and the harbour, 
 there came suddenly round the northern point of the island 
 a long narrow open boat, like a dart, filled with mariners, 
 believed by our sailors to be Hydriots, to the number of thirty 
 or forty, all plying their oars; who presently landed, removed 
 from the rocks some spars which they had previ ously left 
 there ; and pushing out again to sea, disappeared with the 
 same surprising velocity with which they had arrived. We 
 saw their little bean-cod, as it were instantaneously, reduced 
 to a speck upon the waves : and while we were admiring 
 the dauntless intrepidity with which these men, in a bark 
 that could be compared only to a long canoe, ventured to 
 cross such a dangerous sea, our Captain arrived ; who said 
 we might thank our good stars that they did not plunder 
 our vessel of every thing she contained. He added, that there 
 was not a part of the Archipelago which the Hydriots would 
 not traverse in such a boat, venturing in all w r eather, and 
 braving the most tempestuous seas : and the only reason he 
 could give for their not having attacked our caique was, 
 that he believed they did not see it; for it had not cleared 
 the passage of the rocks before they left the harbour. We 
 remained in the Bay of Jura during the rest of this day, and 
 the following night. The few inhabitants of this desolate 
 spot, believing us to be pirates, were afraid to approach ; 
 so that although we saw a few traces, as of human 
 beings, upon the island, not one of them appeared. We 
 collected a few plants and minerals. The mountain around 
 the bay, and especially that part of it which extends in 
 the same line of direction as Syra, consists of schistus, 
 
 containing 
 
BAY OF JURA. 
 
 435 
 
 CHAP. XI. 
 
 containing masses of quartz, exhibiting a beautiful contrast 
 of colour. We found some quartz crystallized, and also 
 crystals of carbonated lime. Tournefort describes Jura as wretched 
 
 Condition of 
 
 the most barren and disagreeable spot in the Archipelago, Jura, 
 and says its plants are all of them common. It is not more 
 than four leagues in circumference. In the time of Strabo, 
 and indeed in all ages, its poverty and wretchedness were 
 proverbial ; and, while a less contemned spot hardly obtains 
 from that author any other notice than the introduction of 
 its name, Gyarus, from the supremacy of its indigence, 
 occupies a more considerable portion of his regard 1 . A mean 
 and miserable village, inhabited solely by fishermen, was the 
 only settlement at that time upon its barren rocks : he men- 
 tions their embassy to Augustus, who was at Corinth, after the 
 battle of Actium, praying a diminution of their annual tribute, 
 which they were unable to pay ; and he cites the antient poet 
 Aratus, to shew how long the poverty of the island had 
 been its only distinction 2 . Tournefort has countenanced 
 the story related by Pliny 5 of the expulsion of its inhabitants 
 by rats, or by field-mice ; affirming that he saw some large 
 
 animals 
 
 (1) Vid. Strab. Geog. lib. x. p. 708. Oxon. I8O7. 
 
 (2) " ArjXol cc T(i<; dvopias avruv tcaVAparos iv role Kara Xtrrroy, 
 
 T ft Ai)to~i, ffv fiivsie fiiv crtSypdr] tyoXtydvdpp 
 AtiXrj, rj Yiiapov TrapeXevaai uvriy/ 6p.oiqv. 
 Paupertatem eorum etiam Aratus sic innuit in minutis : 
 
 Te Latona tenet, puto, ferrea nunc Pholegandrus, 
 Aut Gyaron nihilo meliorem forte subisti." 
 
 Strabon. Geog. lib.x. p. 7O9. Oxon. I8O7. 
 
 (3) Vid. Plin. Hist. Nat. lib. viii. c.29. De Civitat. et Gent, a minutis animalibus 
 deletce. " Ex Gyaro Cycladum insulk incolas a muribus fugatos," &c. 
 

 
 436 
 
 BAY OF JURA. 
 
 CHAP. XI. 
 
 Voyage to Z'ia. 
 
 animals of this kind which were probably of the antient 
 race 1 . Instead of the field-mice, we saw plenty of sheep 
 and goats belonging to the people of Syra ; yet the 
 existence of the animals mentioned by Pliny is attested by 
 many authors, some of whom pretend that, driven by hunger, 
 the mice have been constrained to gnaw the iron ore taken from 
 the mines" ; a most improbable story : but we perhaps learn 
 from it the reason why exiles were sent hither by the 
 Romans ; the labour of mining having been antiently, as it 
 is now in many countries, a punishment allotted to state 
 criminals : however, we perceived no traces either of the 
 mineral thus alluded to, or of the works carried on for its 
 excavation. 
 
 We left Jura for Z'ia, October the twenty-fifth, the 
 weather being calm. As we drew near to Zia, there sprung 
 a fresh breeze, and our sailors endeavoured to steer the 
 caique into what they believed to be the harbour of the 
 island, at its northern extremity. Fortunately we had a 
 small compass, and a copy of Tournefort's travels, the accu- 
 racy of whose maps we had before proved ; and, finding that 
 neither our Captain nor any one of the Casiot crew knew 
 anything of the coast, the author undertook to pilot the 
 vessel into a harbour which he had never seen, and actually 
 by the aid of charts which have neither soundings nor 
 
 bearings 
 
 (l) " Nous n'y vimes que de gros mulots, peut-etre de la race de ceux qui obli- 
 gerent les habitans de l'isle de l'abaudoner, comme Pline le rapporte." Tournef. 
 V y. du. Lev. torn. II. p. 30. Lyon, 1717. 
 
 ('4) See the Authors as cited by Tournefort: Antigon. Carist. Narrat. Mirab. cap. 12. 
 Arist. lib. de Mirab. Ausc. /Elian. Hist. Anim. lib. V. cap. 14. Steph. Byxant. &c. 
 
VOYAGE TO ZIA. 
 
 437 
 
 bearings 3 . As soon as we had doubled the northern point chap. xi. 
 of the island, the wind freshened apace; but it came entirely 
 aft, with a heavy sea, which drove us before it with great 
 rapidity down the channel between Z'ia and the island lying 
 off Cape Sunium, antiently called Helena, and now 
 Macronisi. Presently the mouth of the port which is on 
 the western side of Z'ia, opposite to Helena, began to 
 appear: but we stood on, so as to clear any rocks which 
 might be on its northern side, and to have a full view 
 of the entrance, which is between the finest- North- West, 
 and West; and then we luffed, and stood towards it. In 
 this manner we entered the port, about noon, in per- 
 fect safety ; and found there a Ragusan ship at anchor. 
 It is a very large and commodious haven, fit for ships of 
 any burden, and even for the largest fleets. It extends, in 
 an elliptical form, from the north towards the south : the best 
 anchorage is upon the southern side, but small vessels may 
 anchor anywhere. The great article of commerce belonging 
 to the island, now exported from this harbour, consists of 
 the acorns of the Velani Oak 4 , Quercus JEgilops, used for 
 dyeing. A kind of cloak made of goat's hair, which 
 is sold in the port, is said by Tournefort to be manufactured 
 in Z"ia: but in this he was mistaken; for those cloaks are 
 
 brought 
 
 (3) See Tournef. Voy. du Lev. torn. II. pp. 14, 21. Lyon, \7\7- 
 
 (4) Tournefort describes this beautiful species of oak as growing to the size of our 
 common oak, the Quercus Ro/ur. We never observed the Quercus sEgilops but as 
 a shrub ; however, the accuracy of such a writer as Tournefort is by no means to be 
 disputed upon a point that he was so peculiarly qualified to determine. The Velani 
 acorns which we brought to the botanic Garden at Cambridge, although collected with 
 the utmost care, did not produce a single plant. ; 
 
SmHHmHmmIMmmmH 
 
 
 438 
 
 CHAP. XI. 
 
 Carthaea. 
 
 Ravages 
 committed by 
 the Russians. 
 
 ISLAND OF ZIA. 
 
 brought to Zia from the Isle of Joura, pronounced Zoura, 
 near Salonica. There has been a great defalcation in the sale 
 of the Velani acorns : formerly they sold for forty pounds 
 sterling the quintal ; and when we arrived, the dealers in 
 this article were glad to get fifteen pounds sterling for the 
 same quantity. The produce of the island in these acorns 
 alone amounts annually to fifteen thousand quintals. 
 
 It being Sunday, we found nobody at the quay, and 
 therefore set off for the town, and the only one upon the 
 island; it is at the distance of three miles from the harbour: 
 we passed through a valley towards it, and afterwards 
 ascended to the hill on which it stands. It is built upon 
 the site of the antient Garthcea, after the manner of the 
 town of Syra, but in the form of a theatre, and upon a 
 much higher mountain; the houses being erected in terraces 
 one above another, so that the roofs of a range of dwellings 
 below serve as a street to another range above. Those 
 streets, as at Syra, are beyond description filthy. Such a sin- 
 gular manner of building gives to the place a very novel and 
 extraordinary appearance. The citadel is upon the left, to a 
 person entering by the narrow pass that leads to the town ; 
 and here, says Tournefort 1 , sixty Turks, armed only with two 
 muskets, defended themselves against the whole Venetian 
 army. The ravages committed by the Russians, when their 
 fleet visited this island during the reign of Catharine the 
 Second, were even yet the subject of conversation. The inha- 
 bitants told us that their houses were entirely stripped by 
 
 them. 
 
 (1) Voy. du Lev. torn. II. p. 15. 
 
 MMimHbWka 
 
ISLAND OF ZIA. 
 
 them. The specious promises which they held out to the 
 people of Greece are now seen in their true light by that 
 people, and they will not again become the dupes of any 
 Scythian treaty. Sonnini says they had rendered the very 
 name of Liberty so odious at Paros, that the inhabitants 
 would hear no proposals for their deliverance from the 
 power of the Turks ; they preferred Turkish despotism to 
 Russian emancipation. " Armed," says he 2 , " in appearance 
 for the purpose of restoring to the Greeks their antient 
 liberty, they (the Russians) became their scourge." Surely 
 the examples of national perfidy they have afforded will not 
 be lost upon the Cabinets of Europe. It was not the 
 property of the natives alone which suffered upon this 
 occasion : the Russians removed or destroyed the most 
 valuable antiquities; which could not have been more 
 effectually sacrificed if they had perished, with the plunder 
 of the Parthenon, among the rocks of Cythera 3 . The Fine 
 Arts, who always deprecate their coming as they would 
 another invasion of Alaric, will remember with regret the 
 days they passed in the Archipelago : and when truth pre- 
 vails over the interests of political intrigue and the preju- 
 dices of party zeal, it will be seen that an author has not 
 erred who thus described them 4 : RVSSI INTER christianos 
 barbaphtatoi. 
 
 The male population of Z'ia amounts to three thousand 
 
 persons. 
 
 439 
 
 CHAP. XI. 
 
 (2) Travels in Greece and Trnkey, p. 454. Lond. 1801. 
 
 (3) The memorable fate which attended the spoils of the finest temple Greece 
 ever saw, in Cerigo Bay, A.D. 18*02. 
 
 (4) Vid. Johannis Lomeieri Li b. de Bibliothecis, cap. xi. p. 358. Ultraject. 1680. 
 

 440 
 
 CHAP XI. 
 
 Ruins of 
 
 Ioulis. 
 
 RUINS OF IOULIS. 
 
 persons . Each house pays a tax of ten, twelve, or fifteen 
 piastnes, annually. We called upon the English Consul, who 
 promised to send mules for us to the marine, if we would come 
 the next day and dine with him ; to which we consented. He 
 informed us of a circumstance before alluded to, but of which 
 we had never till then heard; namely, that the famous Oxford 
 Marble, generally believed to have been found in Paros, was 
 in reality discovered among the Ruins of Ioulis, in the Isle of 
 Zia, at four hours distance from the town ; and he appealed 
 to some of the inhabitants, well acquainted with the cir- 
 cumstance, for the truth of the fact. Those ruins are little 
 known: Tournefort has briefly noticed them; but it remains 
 for some future traveller to make us better acquainted with 
 the remains of a city not only renowned as the birth-place 
 of many celebrated men 1 , of Simonides*, of Bacchylides, of 
 Erasistratus 3 , and of Ariston\ but particularly entitled to 
 
 a careful 
 
 (1) 'Ek he rijt; Toi/\<coc o, tc 2t/u«v«h/c %v 6 fieXoTroidt, Kai j3aK^vXldtis dBsXtjttSovc 
 ckeivov. Kal fierd ravra ^paffiarparoq 6 tarpon, kcli tuv £K tov TreptTrtiTov tpiXotrvipui' 
 'Apioruv, orov fiopvadsvirov fliuvoc fyXuTw. Strabon. Geog. lib. x. p.7l0. Oxon 1807 . 
 
 (2) The antient name of Zia, KEOl, called KIA by Ptolemy, was sometimes 
 abbreviated, and written K02; and, owing to this circumstance, the country of the 
 Poet Simonides has sometimes been confounded with that of Hippocrates. Stephanus 
 Byzantinus uses the word K02 to signify KE02, in speaking of the city Ioulis. 'lovXk 
 jro'Xtc iv K.y. (Vid. Steph. Byzant. Geog. L. Bat. 1094.) Among the Romans, it was 
 also usual to abbreviate Ceos by writing Cos. Pliny says the island had been called 
 Ceos, and in his time Cea. ' 
 
 (3) The famous physician who discovered, by the motion of the pulse, the love 
 which Antiochus had conceived for his mother-in-law, Stratonice. He was the 
 grandson of Aristotle. 
 
 (4) There were two philosophers of this name : the first mentioned by Strabo as 
 a native of Ceos, was a Peripatetic ; the second was a Stoic, and a native of Chios : 
 they have been confounded together, and it has been proposed to read 'hpioruv Kfiov 
 for XToc. 
 
ISLAND OF ZIA. 
 
 441 
 
 a careful examination, from the circumstance of the discovery chap. xi. 
 there made of this important chronicle, so long believed to 
 owe its origin to Paros. A place which has been hitherto 
 little regarded, as lying remote from common observation, 
 where the soil has never been turned, nor hardly a stone 
 removed from the situation in which it was left when the 
 city was abandoned by its inhabitants, may well repay the 
 labour and the expense necessary for this purpose. The 
 season was far advanced at the time of our visit, and our 
 eagerness to get to Athens so paramount above every other 
 consideration, that we did not choose to delay our voyage 
 thither, by making a visit to these ruins ; which we have 
 ever since regretted. Some notion may be formed of their 
 magnitude, and the degree of consideration in which they 
 were held by Tournefort, from the manner in which he 
 introduces his account of them, after describing the remains 
 of Carthcea* : and with regard to the valuable chronicle 
 which the present inhabitants of Z'ia maintain to have been 
 found at Ionlis, there is something like an internal evidence 
 of the fact in the remarkable records preserved upon the 
 marble, not only with regard to Simonides the poet, who was 
 a native of the city, but also of his descendant Simonides son 
 of Lcoprepis, who explained at Athens the principles of a 
 Mvqpovixov, or scheme for artificial memory, of which he 
 was the inventor. The antient road from loulis to Carthcea, 
 
 the 
 
 (5) " Pour voir ouelque chose de plus superbe, il faut prendre la route du 
 sud sud-est," &c. Voy. du Lev. torn. II. p. 15. 
 
 VOL. III. 3 L 
 

 ■r — r^-:*- 
 
 442 
 
 CHAP. XI. 
 
 RUINS OF IOULIS. 
 
 the finest thing of the kind, says Tournefort 1 , which perhaps 
 can be found in all Greece, yet exists. He traced it for 
 three miles in extent, flanking the sides of the hills, and 
 sustained by a strong wall, of which the coping consisted of 
 immense blocks of a greyish stone, having the property of 
 splitting like the slate used in the Grecian Isles for covering 
 houses and chapels. The remains of Ioulis are now called 
 nOAI2 by the inhabitants of Zia. They cover the top of a 
 promontory, to the south-south-east of the present town ; the 
 base of which is washed by the sea, although it was a 
 league distant from it in the time of Strabo. The ruins of 
 the Acropolis are upon the point of the Cape ; and somewhat 
 farther from the shore the temple is conspicuous, in the 
 magnificence of its remains : those of the city extend from 
 the hill quite into a valley which is watered by the streams 
 of a fountain whence Ioulis received its name. " Never," 
 observes the author now cited 2 , " have I seen such masses 
 of marble employed in architecture, as those used for con- 
 structing the walls of this city : some of the blocks are more 
 than twelve feet in length." The British Consul told us, that 
 the head of the fine Torso represented in Tournefort's travels 
 was carried away by an Englishman. Strabo relates, that 
 there were once four cities upon this island, Poeeessa, 
 
 Cartkcea, 
 
 (1) Voy. du Lev. lorn. II. p. 16. Lyon,\J\J. 
 
 (2) Ibid. Tournefort found the remains of an inscription upon a broken marble in 
 a Greek, chapel among the ruins, containing the word IOTAIAA. 
 

 CH\P XI. 
 
 RUINS OF IOULIS. 443 
 
 Ccrthcea, Caressw, and Ioulis ; but that in his time the 
 inhabitants of Poeeessa had settled in Carthcea, and those of 
 Caressus in Ioulis. He has preserved from Menander an antient 
 and memorable law of the inhabitants of this island 3 : " Let 
 
 HIM WHO CANNOT LEAD AN HONOURABLE, NOT LEAD A DISHO- 
 NOURABLE life." Ptolemy mentions three cities, instead of 
 four, Caressus, Ioulis, and Carthcea*. From the ruins of the last 
 of these has originated the present town of Zia, the only one 
 in the whole island : those ruins may be traced in the valley, 
 the whole way from the harbour to the citadel 5 . The name 
 of this city — written KAP0AIA by Strabo and by Ptolemy, 
 and consequently Carthaea by Latin writers — appears upon 
 its medals KAP0A, which is probably an abbreviation. We Medals, 
 were fortunate in procuring several: but they were all of 
 bronze ; nor have we ever seen or heard of a silver medal 
 either of Ioulis or of Carthcea. Those of the latter city 
 exhibited in front a laurelled bust; and for reverse, the fore 
 quarters either of a fawn or of a dog, and in some instances 
 with a bee below, and a semicircle of diverging rays above 
 the head of the animal. Their legends were either K, simply, 
 
 or 
 
 (3) 'O fxrj cvvdfisvos £ijv koXw, ov #/ kukuc. Thus rendered by Xy lander, " Qui 
 non potest vivere bene, non male moritur :" perhaps alluding to an antient custom in 
 Zia, of putting to death aged and infirm persons. The Editor of the Oxford Strabo 
 has disputed this interpretation, and says the sense should be, " Qui non bene vitam 
 agere potest, non male vitam agat." Vid. Annot. in Strabon. Geog. lib. x. p. 710. 
 Ozon. 1807. Not. 12. 
 
 (4) Km vi)(T0t; Iv f/ voken: rpfn;, Kctprjarffos, 'IovXtc, KapBaia. Ptolem. Geog. lib. iii. 
 cap. 15. Amst. 1618. 
 
 (5) Tournefort speaks of an inscription of forty-one lines in the Chapel of St. Peter, 
 but it was much effaced, and almost illegible. 
 

 w*#rjm*. 
 
 
 Hospitality of 
 the Modern 
 Greeks. 
 
 ISLAND OF ZIA. 
 
 or KAP0HA; but in no instance KAP0AIA. The bee 
 evidently refers to Ioalis, of which city this was the symbol ; 
 as appears by some bronze medals in the French Collection, 
 on which the bee appears, with the legend IOYAI. Possibly, 
 therefore, loulis was leagued with Carthcea, or had become 
 tributary to it, when some of the medals were struck which 
 we brought from the island. 
 
 An amusing adventure befel us the next day, in our search 
 for medals. We have before had occasion to allude to 
 the hospitality of the Greeks, to their love of festivity, and 
 to the sort of sensation excited by the arrival of strangers 
 among them; but perhaps the following anecdote may 
 exhibit these their national characteristics in a more striking 
 manner than has been hitherto done. The Consul having 
 sent his mules to the harbour, we went to visit him, as we 
 had promised to do, and despatched messengers about the 
 town in search of medals and gems. Towards the evening, 
 as we were preparing to take leave of our host, a little girl 
 arrived ; who said, if we would follow her, she would conduct 
 us to a house where several antiquities would be offered to 
 us for sale. When we got into the street, we were surprised 
 to meet a young lady very splendidly dressed, who offered 
 to us some medals, and said, if we would accompany her, 
 she would take us to a house where the owner kept a 
 collection of such rarities. Presently we met a second 
 female, nearly of the same age, and similarly habited ; who 
 addressed the first, laughing, and then literally seized one of us 
 by the arm, bidding her companion secure the other: and in 
 this manner we were hurried into a crowded assembly, where 
 
 many 
 
ISLAND OF ZIA. 
 
 445 
 
 many of the inhabitants had been collected for a regular ball. 
 The dancing instantly began ; and being welcomed with loud 
 cheers into the midst of the party, there was no alternative but 
 to give up all thoughts, for the rest of the evening, of returning 
 to our caique, and contribute to the hilarity of those by 
 whom we had been thus hospitably inveigled. Our con- 
 ductors proved to be the two daughters of the 'lhovgolzsvos, 
 who thus honourably entertained, after the manner of his 
 forefathers, two private strangers whom he was never likely 
 to see again, and from whom he could reap no possible 
 advantage. Every species of Greek dance was exhibited 
 for the amusement of his guests ; from the bounding Movo- 
 X,ogog or hornpipe, and the Ai%ogo$ or rigadoon 1 , to the more 
 stately measures of the orbicular bratvl*, and the " threadle- 
 my~needle" of the modern Roitieka 3 . The whole night 
 passed in one interrupted scene of the most joyous vivacity. 
 To us it seemed to exhibit a moving picture of other times ; 
 for in the dances we actually beheld the choirs of the antient 
 Greeks, as originally they were led around the altars of 
 Delos, or amidst the rocks of Delphi, or by the waters of 
 Helicon, or along the banks of the Eurotas 4 . When morning 
 dawned, we retired: but we left them still dancing; and we 
 heard their reiterated songs as we descended through the 
 
 valley towards the shore. 
 
 The 
 
 CHAP. XI. 
 
 Antient 
 Dances. 
 
 
 (1) See De Guy's Letters on Greece, vol. I. p. 149. Lond. 1781. 
 
 (2) See p. 431 of this volume. 
 
 (3) See p. 425, Note (2), of this volume. 
 
 (4J " Qualis in Eurotae ripis, aut per juga Cynthi 
 Exercet Diana choros." 
 
 Virg, JEneid. lib. i. Sedan. 1625. 
 

 446 
 
 CHAP. XI. 
 
 Produce of 
 Zia. 
 
 ISLAND OF ZIA. 
 
 The fertility of Zia has been mentioned by antient and 
 by modern authors, and it was particularly noticed by us 
 upon the spot 1 . It appeared to be the best cultivated of 
 any of the Grecian Isles. In our way to and from the 
 town, we found among the rocks some very rare plants ; 
 particularly the Ferhascum Grcecum of Tournefort, which 
 here flourishes in great perfection. The cotton-plants were 
 in flower; the island produces also abundance of wine, barley, 
 silk, figs, and cattle. The old road from this harbour to the 
 city of Garthcea was cut out of the solid rock, and the traces 
 of it are still visible. There was a tradition in the time of 
 Pliny, that Zia, or, as he writes it, Cea\ had been separated 
 from Eubcea by the sea, and that a considerable part of it 
 towards the north had been swallowed by the waves 3 . This 
 event might possibly occur at the bursting of the Thracian 
 Bosphorus ; and to this perhaps the antient Greek name of 
 the island, Hydrussa\ may be attributed, rather than to the 
 abundance or excellence of its water, as the same name 
 was common to other isles ; for example, to Tenos, which 
 may, from its relative situation to Eubosa, have had a 
 similar origin. The mountains of Zia are all of limestone : 
 
 there 
 
 (i) 
 
 -*' Et cultor nemorum, qui pinguia Cece 
 
 Ter centum nivei tondent dumeta juvenci." 
 
 Virg. Georgic. lib.'x. vet: 14. Sedan. 1625. 
 
 (2) " Quam nostri quidam dixere Ceam." Plin. Hist. Nat. til. iv. c. 12. torn. I 
 p. 111. L. Bat. 1635. 
 
 (3) " Avulsa Euboeae, quingentis longa stadiis, fuit quondam; mox quatuor fere 
 partibus, quae ad Boeotiam vergebant, eodem mari devoratis." Ibid. 
 
 (4) Vid. Plin. Hist. Nat. ubi supra. 
 
DEPARTURE FROM ZIA. 447 
 
 there are no vestiges of any volcanic operation. The mineral t ^ HAR XL , 
 
 mentioned by Tournefort*, under the appellation of " Craie Minerals. 
 
 de Briangon," a variety of talc, is found in great abundance 
 
 near the Monastery of St. Marine, or Marinas, distant about 
 
 three hours journey from the town of Z'ia : the inhabitants 
 
 make no use of it. Lead ore is also found near the same 
 
 place. From hence there are two ways of going to Athens : 
 
 the first is by landing at a port near Sunium, which is called 
 
 Dascallio ; two hours from which place is a village called, 
 
 from the abundance of its Karob-trees, Keratia, whence the 
 
 distance is only eight or ten hours, by land the whole way, 
 
 to Athens : the other way is by sea, up the Gulph of Engia 
 
 to the Piraeus. Our Consul had recommended the former 
 
 way, as the easiest, the safest, and the best; but we adopted 
 
 the latter, that we might have the satisfaction of making 
 
 our first approach to Athens from one of its antient harbours, 
 
 and of seeing as much as possible of the magnificent scenery 
 
 which the gulph exhibits. 
 
 We hired a pilot from Z'ia, for the Saronic Gulph ; and Departure 
 
 r L for Athens. 
 
 left the harbour, with a fair wind, October the twenty- 
 seventh, soon after sun-rise. 
 
 We passed Macronisi, once called Helena, because 
 Helen is said to have landed here after her expulsion from 
 Troy 6 ; and we had such a glorious prospect of this island, 
 and of the temple of Minerva Sunias standing upon the 
 Cape, together with other more distant objects, that we 
 
 could 
 
 (5) Voy. du Lev. torn. II. p. 21. Lyon,\J\J. 
 
 (6) See Pausanias, lib.i. c.35. 
 
VOYAGE TO ATHENS. 
 
 could recollect nothing like it: such a contrast of colours., 
 such an association of the wonders of Nature and of Art; such 
 perfection of grand and beautiful perspective, as no expres- 
 sion of perceptible properties can convey to the minds of 
 those who have not beheld the objects themselves. Being 
 well aware of the transitory nature of impressions made 
 upon the memory by sights of this kind, the author wrote 
 a description of this scene while it was actually before hiss 
 eyes : but how poor is the effect produced by detailing the 
 parts of a view in a narrative, which ought to strike as a 
 whole upon the sense ! He may tell indeed of the dark 
 blue sea streaked with hues of deepest purple — of embrowning 
 shadows — of lights effulgent as the sun — of marble pillars 
 beaming a radiant brightness upon lofty precipices whose 
 sides are diversified by refreshing verdure and by hoary 
 mosses, and by gloomy and naked rocks ; or by brighter 
 surfaces reflecting the most vivid and varied tints, orange, 
 red, and grey: to these he may add an account of distant 
 summits, more intensely azured than the clear and cloudless 
 sky — of islands dimly seen through silvery mists upon the 
 wide expanse of water shining, towards the horizon, as it 
 were "a sea of glass:" — and when he has exhausted his 
 vocabulary, of every colour and shape exhibited by the 
 face of Nature or by the works of Art, although he have 
 not deviated from the truth in any part of his description, 
 how little and how ineffectual has been the result of his 
 undertaking ! 
 
 As we passed the southern point of Macronisi, and 
 drew nearer to the promontory, the temple upon the 
 
 Cape 
 
VOYAGE TO ATHENS. 
 
 449 
 
 (I) There is a very accurate representaiion of Cape Sunium and the Temple, 
 engraved from a drawing by Mr. Gell, in the edition of Falconer's Shipwreck pub- 
 lished by the Rev. James Stanier Clarke, LL.B. brother of the author of these Travels. 
 
 CHAP. XI. 
 
 Gape appeared to the greatest advantage in which it is 
 possible now to view it 1 ; for it seemed to be entire, its 
 deficiencies being concealed by the parts which yet remain 
 uninjured. When we had doubled the southern point of 
 the Cape, we anchored in the antient port of Sunium, an sunium 
 insignificant bay, lying within the gulph, sheltered by the 
 promontory. Here we landed. The owners of a small boat 
 which we observed coasting, believing us to be pirates, ran their 
 vessel aground, and abandoned her as soon as they perceived 
 our caique coming round the Cape, making their escape 
 up the rocks near to the shore. We endeavoured, by 
 signs, to convince them of our peaceable intentions; but they 
 betook themselves to some woods, and appeared no more 
 while we remained in the bay. Proceeding towards the 
 temple, we found the rocks covered with evergreens and 
 bushy shrubs, among which we noticed the Pistacia Leu- 
 tiscus, the myrtle, the Velani oak, and some dwarf cedars. 
 We also found some rolled pieces of green trap or basalt, 
 containing a dendritic crystallization ; but had not leisure for 
 a due examination of the strata on which this temple stands; 
 our sailors, who had themselves been mistaken for pirates, 
 being very impatient to get under weigh, through fear that 
 some of the real robbers would arrive, who make the bay of 
 Sunium their lurking-place, where they lie-in-wait for vessels 
 going in or out of the gulph. It was with difficulty we 
 
 could 
 
 VOL. III. 
 
 3 M 
 
<V->^>-<t~*r-:-fc-,^-,> 
 
 HM||MMMn ^^H 
 
 
 450 
 
 CFHP. XI. 
 
 Temple of 
 
 Hfinerva 
 
 Sunias. 
 
 Anecdote of a 
 Naval Officer. 
 
 PORT OF SUN11TM. 
 
 could pacify the masterof the caique during the time we spent 
 in the examination of the temple. This beautiful building was 
 once adorned with the most exquisite sculpture: its materials 
 were of the whitest marble ; it was of the Doric order ; and 
 the remains of it are sufficient to prove that, when it was 
 entire, it exhibited one of the most highly-finished specimens 
 of Attic architecture in all Greece. Chandler 1 believed it to 
 have been " erected in the same happy period with the great 
 Temple of Minerva, called the Parthenon, in the Acropolis 
 at Athens, or in the time of Pericles, it having like pro- 
 portions, though far inferior in magnitude." Besides the 
 temple, there w 7 as also a Propyleum of the Doric order at 
 Sunium. We found fifteen columns yet standing. The 
 surfaces in some of those facing the sea were much decom- 
 posed. Several persons had written their names upon the 
 marble ; and even those which had been inscribed with 
 pencils remained, with their dates, as fresh as when they were 
 first written. We read the names of the lamented Tweddell, 
 and of the Hon. Captain William Paget. The last of these, 
 a gallant naval officer, now buried at Gibraltar, will not want 
 a memorial in Greece. His name will be long remembered, 
 for the coolness, the intrepidity, and the humanity which 
 he displayed when commander of the Romney, a fifty-gun 
 ship, during his memorable action with a French frigate, 
 La Sibylle, in the harbour of Myconi. The French officer 
 was an old acquaintance, and one with whom he had lived in 
 
 habits 
 
 (l) Travels in Greece, p. 8. Oxf. 1$7<5. 
 
VOYAGE TO ATHENS. 
 
 habits of friendship. Captain Paget sent a boat to him, saying 
 
 he was sorry they had met under such circumstances, but that 
 
 he must desire him to surrender. He received for answer, that 
 
 the Captain of La Sibylie well knew Captain Paget's force 2 , 
 
 and that he would defend himself to the last extremity. The 
 
 Frenchman fired first, aided by four armed vessels, which 
 
 were stationed so as to rake the Romney. Captain Paget 
 
 having observed that, from the situation of his ship, some 
 
 mischief would ensue to the inhabitants of Myconi, patiently 
 
 sustained this powerful attack without returning a single shot, 
 
 until, by getting a spring upon his cable, he had brought the 
 
 Romney into a situation where the cannon might play without 
 
 doing any inj ury to the town ; then he gave his broadside, with 
 
 three cheers from his crew. The Frenchman returned the 
 
 salute ; and a warm contest ensued, in which the Romney 
 
 was ultimately victorious. The history of this action is often 
 
 related in the Archipelago, although it has not been recorded 
 
 in England : and as the name of the hero appears inscribed 
 
 with his own hands upon the conspicuous pillars of Sunium, 
 
 the 2THAAI AIA4ANEI2, visible from afar, may stand as lasting 
 
 a monument of his fame, as the glorious sepulchre which 
 
 chance did assign to the memory of Tweddell, when it 
 
 caused him to be buried in the Temple of Theseus. 
 
 Chandler says that the Temple of Minerva Sunias was 
 within the wall of the old town 3 . We saw no remains of 
 
 this 
 
 451 
 
 CHAP. XI. 
 
 (2) The Romney was short of her complement by seventy-live men. 
 
 (3) Trav. in Greece, p./. Oxf. 17/6. See also Wheler's Journey into Greece, 
 Book vi. p. 448. Land. 1682. 
 

 Patrocle'ia. 
 
 ISLANb OF PATROCLEIA. 
 
 this town ; but we were induced to believe, from the 
 appearance of some ruins upon an opposite hill, on the 
 northern side of the port, that these were the remains of 
 Siinium. The impatience of our mariners prevented our 
 visiting those ruins, although they have been hitherto unde- 
 scribed. They seemed to be too near to have belonged to 
 Laurium. Among the remains of the temple we found the 
 point of an antient lance, and many fragments of terra-cotta 
 vessels, those indestructible and infallible testimonies of 
 places resorted to by the antient Greeks. As soon as we had 
 descended to the caique, our Captain weighed anchor, and set 
 sail for the Piraeus, now called Porto Lione, distant forty- 
 two miles from the Cape ; but we had no sooner entered 
 the channel, between the Island Patrocleia and the coast of 
 Attica, than we were becalmed. This island is now called by 
 at least half a dozen different modern names; it is therefore 
 best to adhere as much as possible to original appellations, 
 for these will be found frequently preserved by the inhabi- 
 tants of the country. All the barbarous nick-names given 
 to places and islands in Greece, and introduced into modern 
 geography, have been principally owing to the Italians. 
 Thus Athens received the strange appellation of Settines, 
 although it never lost its old name among its resident citi- 
 zens, nor ever fell into the state of desolation and desertion 
 which has been falsely ascribed to it. The little Island of 
 Patrocle'ia still preserved its name in Wheler's time 1 ; but 
 
 it 
 
 (]) Wheler writes it Patroclea; but Spon, Patrocleia. See Wheler's Journ. 
 into Greece, Book vi. p. 44(). Lond. 1682. Spon, Voyage de Grece, torn. II. p. 155. 
 'it La Haye, 1724. 
 
 ^fHMEBM&Mft* 
 
VOYAGE TO ATHENS. 
 
 it has been called Gaitharonesi (Asses Isle), the Island of 
 Ebony, Guidronisa, Garderonis, &c. ; and owing to all these 
 names, it has been sometimes multiplied, and laid down in 
 charts as a cluster of small isles, rather than as one island. 
 Some geographers have believed this island to be the Bclbina 
 of Strabo 2 , from the manner in wiiich he has connected the 
 BzXQiva vr,<rog with the rampart constructed by Pat rod us 3 ; 
 but in a former part of his work he is more explicit as to 
 the situation of Belbina 4 , describing its situation as farther 
 from the coast, and which some have believed to be the 
 island now called St. George d Arbor i, as it is named in 
 a chart by D'Anville 5 . 
 
 The pilot whom we had brought from Z'ia informed us, 
 that ebony still grows upon Patrocle'ia ; and we availed our- 
 selves of the delay caused by our being becalmed, to land in 
 search of it. We collected many rare plants upon this 
 otherwise barren spot ; but could not find a single specimen 
 of the Ebcnus, either Cretica or pinnata. Our sailors also 
 
 landed ; 
 
 453 
 
 CHAP. XI. 
 
 (2) See De L'Isle's " Grcecice Antu/uce Tabula Nova" as published at Paris 1"4>5. 
 
 (3) WpoKt irai li Kal 70V7mv 7uv TOiruv heXpiva v>;ffoc, ov ttoXv drruQtv, kou 6 
 U((7 i o6k\ov \df>a£. Strabon. Geog. lib. ix. p. 5/8. Oxon. 1807. 
 
 (4) Nnvitia cl irtpiKtircu TtoWd fitv 7rpo<; ~r\ ninipa' BA/kj'O £r irpds 76 rtXayos 
 dvartivovaa. [bid. lib. viii. p. 544. Oxon. 1807- 
 
 (5) See D'Anville's Chart of the Archipelago, published at Paris in 1756. The 
 Editor of the Oxford Edition of Strabo believed Lavousa to be the modern name of 
 Bclbina. " Bclbina nunc Lavousa dicitur." {Fid. Not. in Strabon. Geog. p. 544. Oxon. 
 ISO/.) This is the island mentioned by Spon, to whose work the reader may be 
 referred for the best, indeed the only accurate, account of the islands in the Saronic 
 Gulph. " Entre /Egina et Coulouri, il y a une petite isle appellee Laou.-.a." Voyage de 
 Greco, fait aux Annies 1675 et 1676, par Jacob Spon, torn. II. p. 156. a la Haye, 1724. 
 

 
 CHAP. XI. 
 
 Islands in the 
 SaronicGulph. 
 
 454 ISLAND OF CALAUREA. 
 
 landed ; and they caught abundance of echini, upon which 
 they fed heartily, both on this and the following day. The 
 name of this prickly shell-fish, if written abbreviated as they 
 pronounced it, would be ccy/,v, instead of e%7vos. The thermo- 
 meter, this day at noon, was 80° of Fahrenheit. We were 
 unable to leave our station off Patrocle'ia before the next 
 day ; and being afraid to venture upon the coast of Attica, 
 we contiued upon the island, collecting plants until the 
 evening, and admiring the glorious prospect exhibited on 
 all sides. In this gulph, between the two promontories of 
 Sunium and Scyllceum, there are not less than twenty islands ' ; 
 but only three of them are inhabited, Calaurea, tEgina, and 
 Salamis. At present we shall only speak of the first of these, 
 Caiaurea. Calaurea, because the others will occur in the order of our 
 route. Its situation with regard to the Scyllcean Promontory, 
 is the same as Patrocleia with respect to the Sunian. 
 Calaurea, rarely visited, and almost unknow r n, is the island to 
 which Demosthenes fled, when he sought to avoid the fury of 
 Antipater ; and where he swallowed poison, in the Temple 
 of Neptune: and although it has been disputed whether the 
 island, now sometimes called Poros from a small adjoining 
 peninsula, be the same with the antient Calaurea, an inscription 
 discovered there by Chandler 9 has put an end to all doubt upon 
 the subject. He found, among the ruins of the city and of 
 the temple, an inscription, upon a pedestal, containing an 
 
 acknow- 
 
 (1) See Spon, torn. II. p. 155. a La Haye, 1724. 
 
 (2) Chandler's Travels in Greece, p. 212. Oxf. 1776> 
 
VOYAGE TO ATHENS. 
 
 455 
 
 CHAP. XI. 
 
 acknowledgment of the services of King Eumenes " to 
 the God, ajsd to the Calaureans, and to the other 
 Greeks." The monument of Demosthenes remained within 
 the precincts of the temple in the second century 3 . This 
 island is eighteen miles in circumference : it is now inhabited 
 bv those descendants of the antient Macedonians who are Albanians. 
 called Amaouts, or Albanians ; a people of whom we shall 
 have frequent occasion to speak during our travels in 
 Greece, and who have been much vilified, in being 
 often represented, in books of travels, as a lawless set of 
 banditti, and as being, with regard to terra fir ma, what the 
 Mainotcs, or Lacedaemonians, are upon the waves 4 . We 
 are not so well acquainted with the latter ; but have reason 
 to believe that they also have been greatly calumniated in 
 the accounts published of them from the hear-say statements 
 of the Turks and Greeks. As to the Albanians, it was 
 often our good fortune, in our subsequent journeys, to prefer 
 a night's lodging in their cottages to the less cleanly 
 accommodation of more stately dwellings : and this brief 
 allusion to them has been now made, rather by anticipation, 
 that the Reader, finding hereafter an account of them very 
 
 different 
 
 (3) Tou wepifioXov Be Ivtoc, kcu to i\t]/iioaOiyovc fiv>if.ia eari. Pausan. lib. ii. c. 33. 
 
 p. 189. Lips. i6gG. 
 
 (4) " II demcuroit dans ces cabanes de ces sortes de gens que les Turcs et Ies Grecs 
 connoissent sous le nom d'Amaut^s, et nous autres sous celuy cVAllanois. lis sont en 
 partie originaires de la frontiere occidentale de la Macedoine, proche des villes d'Apoli- 
 mena et de Sapoza ; et en partie de l'Epire, vers les montagnes de la Chymere. lis 
 sont naturellement braves, determinez, et inratigables, grands voleurs, et justement dans 
 la tone ferme de Grece ce que les M.ignottes sont sur mer." Voyage dAthenes, tsfc. 
 par le S r . de la Guilletiere, p. 88. a Paris, \QJ5. 
 
■ 
 
 - -**>- I ■ V/tSSVfir 
 
 
 
 Elimb6. 
 
 First Sight 
 of Athens. 
 
 VOYAGE TO ATHENS. 
 
 different from the notions generally entertained of this people., 
 may not be induced to attribute to first impressions a 
 description of their manners which has been the result of 
 repeated experience. 
 
 The next morning, we hoisted sail as the sun was rising 
 in great splendor above the mountains ; but the wind blew 
 in gusts, and we made little progress. At one time it came 
 with such sudden violence down the side of a high mountain 
 upon the Attic coast, that it nearly upset the caique. These 
 transitory gales are common in all gulphs surrounded by high 
 land, and they render the navigation precarious for small 
 vessels. The mountain to the east of us was called, by our 
 sailors, Elimbo, which is a modern name for Olympus; and the 
 latter, perhaps, formerly denoted any very lofty eminence, as 
 it is the appellation which was common to many celebrated 
 mountains; to one in Pieria, the seat of the Gods; to another 
 in Bithynia; to a third in Mysia ; a fourth in Cyprus; a fifth in 
 Crete; a sixth in Elis; and a seventh in Arcadia. In the course 
 of this day we found ourselves to be accompanied by a few 
 small vessels, sailing up the gulph, with red sails. At 
 four o'clock in the afternoon, being off Cape Pari, and upon 
 the look-out towards the n. n. e. we beheld, with great 
 transports of joy, the first sight of Athens ; its lofty 
 edifices catching the sun's rays, and rendering the buildings 
 in the Acropolis visible to us at the distance of fifteen 
 miles. The reflected light gave them a white appearance. 
 The Parthenon appeared, first, above a long chain of hills in 
 the front: presently we saw the top of Mount Anchesmus, 
 to the left of the temple ; the whole being backed by a 
 lofty mountainous ridge, which we supposed to be 
 
 Parnes. 
 
 Vr r i n ' t r 
 
VOYAGE TO ATHENS. 
 
 457 
 
 CHAP. XI. 
 
 Parses. All the fore-part of this fine scene was occupied 
 by Cape Vari and the Gulph \ Vari, or Vary, is mentioned by 
 Chandler, but in such an uncertain manner, that it is impos- 
 sible, from his description, to make out its antient name 2 . 
 It may have been so called from the Island Phaura, which 
 was situated before one of the Capes between Phal.erum 
 and Sunium ; and there is a small island off Cape Vari. 
 According to Chandler, Vari is only four hours' journey from 
 Athens by land, which nearly agrees with the distance 
 mentioned to us by our pilot. The famous Grotto of the 
 Nymphs is only three quarters of an hour distant from 
 Vari, inland ; it is situated in a part of Mount Hymettus, 
 which here stretching out into the sea, forms the promontory zoster Pro- 
 once called Zoster ; and this may be the same now called 
 Cape Vari. In this manner, then, we may perhaps settle the 
 geography of this part of the coast ; the promontory being 
 Zoster, and the island Phaura. Zoster was so called because 
 it was said Latona had loosed her zone there, in her way to 
 Delos, whither she was conducted by Minerva. On the 
 
 shore was an altar. A strange notion seems to have Doubtful 
 
 story of Mi- 
 been founded upon a passage in Pausanias ; namely, that nerva's statue. 
 
 a part of the colossal statue of Minerva in the Acropolis 
 
 of Athens was visible from the Sunian Promontory. After 
 
 the 
 
 (1) The author made a sketch of it at the time, which has been engraved for this 
 Work : it has nothing to recommend it but the fidelity of its outline, to which he paid 
 all possible attention. 
 
 (2) Trav. in Greece, pp. 147, 150. Oxf. 1776. 
 
 VOL. III. 3 N 
 

 
 458 
 
 CHAP. XI. 
 
 VOYAGE TO ATHENS. 
 
 the repeated proofs which have occurred of late years, con- 
 firming the truth of antient geographers and historians upon 
 many points before doubted, one would not hastily conclude 
 that a thing positively asserted is untrue, because it has not 
 remained to undergo the test of our experience. The distance 
 is forty-two miles, and we barely discerned the Parthenoni 
 at fifteen ; but the representation of this statue, as it appears 
 upon an antient medal of Athens 1 , proves that it was much 
 higher than the Parthenon ; and there is no saying what the 
 effect might be, of light reflected from a statue of polished or 
 gilded brass in such an atmosphere, even at the extraordinarv 
 distance from which the point of the spear and crest of the 
 helmet are said to have been visible. This gulph has never 
 been accurately surveyed ; and the relative situation of the 
 different parts of it appeared to us to be erroneously marked 
 in our best maps. But Pausanias does not say the statue 
 was visible from Sunium: his words are, " to tfiose sailing 
 from Sunium:" the situation, and distance, of the spectator 
 are therefore very indefinitely marked 2 . 
 
 Towards evening we were again becalmed, and anchored 
 near to a Cape which is opposite to a point of the Island 
 of Salam is. Here we sent the pilot on shore whom we had 
 brought from Z'ia, as he was the only person acquainted 
 with the country, directing him to go to Athens and 
 
 hire 
 
 (1) See " Voyage du Jeune Anachar sis ." Tab. XXVII. Fig. 1. Paris, 1790. 
 
 (2) Trjv 'Afl^d? i) tov SSparoc ui-^jbirj Kal 6 \6(j>or rov KpdvovQ, drro \ovviov 
 -rrpoairXtovaiv lariv ijcr) avvowTa. Pausaniae Attica, c. 28. p. 67 . Lips. l6§6. 
 
VOYAGE TO ATHENS. 
 
 459 
 
 hire horses to meet us at the Piraeeus on the following chap.xi. 
 dav. Soon after midnight a breeze sprung up ; and 
 ou: impatience getting the better of all apprehension, 
 we resolved to steer for the Piraseus, without any other 
 pilot than the stars, which shone with great brightness. 
 We knew that our course was due north ; and there- 
 fore pointing out the polar star to the master of the 
 caique, we persuaded him to get under weigh, promising 
 to pilot his vessel into harbour as safely as we had 
 done before into the port of Z'ia 3 . There was barely 
 wind enough to keep the vessel steady to her helm ; there- 
 fore if she chanced to fall upon a rock or a shoal, it would 
 be easy to get her off again, and the pilot had said that the 
 course was clear. Accordingly w r e set sail, and for once 
 ventured towards a lee-shore, without seeing any thing of 
 the land. In this manner passing the mouth of the old haven 
 Phalerum, as we drew near to the Munychian Isthmus, we 
 distinctly perceived the coast, like a long dark wall before 
 us. Upon this, we stood somewhat farther out towards the 
 north-west ; and doubling the point, lowered our sails, 
 and took to the oars, steering north-east, and afterwards 
 due east ; by which means we soon entered the outer port of Arrival at 
 Piraeus ; but endeavouring to pass farther in, we drove 
 the vessel upon the ruined pier, on the Munychian side. 
 Daylight was beginning to dawn ; and a part of this pier 
 rose above the water, so that we were enabled to land upon 
 
 it, 
 
 (3) The variation of the compass 12°. 55'. as observed in 1751, makes the course 
 exactly north by the magnetic needle. See Stuart's Athens ; Map of Attica; vol. III. 
 
K**%+ as^vSHs*-*^. ***> -y 
 
 
 460 
 
 CHAP. XI. 
 
 Approach to 
 Athens. 
 
 APPROACH TO ATHENS. 
 
 it, and lighten the caique, while our sailors were employed 
 in getting her head off the pier. We found the entrance 
 to the inner harbour to be close to this part of the antient 
 rampart; but it was eight o'clock a. m. October the twenty- 
 ninth, before we brought the vessel to an anchor off the 
 custom-house, in a good sandy bottom, and about four 
 fathoms water. Seven or eight fathoms may be found nearer 
 to the mouth, and eleven between the two piers ; the bottom 
 shelving into fifteen and twenty fathoms in the outer port, 
 with good anchorage 1 . 
 
 At ten o'clock we landed; and having mounted our 
 horses, took the antient road to the city, by the indistinct 
 remains of the walls of Conon 2 , the Sepulchre of Menander, 
 and the Cenotaph of Euripides. It were useless to relate 
 the feelings with which we viewed the grandest and most 
 afFecting sight that hath been left for modern times. 
 The Classical Reader, already convinced that nothing 
 exists upon earth to equal it, may give a traveller credit for 
 emotions, similar to those excited in his own mind by the 
 mere mention of an approach to Athens ; and he will antici- 
 pate, by his imagination, what it is impossible to describe. 
 
 Such 
 
 (1) As an extraordinary event in the history of the Pirceeus, it may be mentioned, 
 that the author's brother, Captain Clarke of the Royal Navy, brought an English 
 frigate, the Braakel, to an anchor within this port ; but not without considerable damage 
 to the ship. The Athenians flocked in crowds to witness this extraordinary spectacle. 
 See a narrative of the event, in the Notes to an edition of Falconer's Shipwreck, ly the 
 Rev. J. S. Clarke, LL.B. the Biographer of Nelson, &c. &c. 
 
 (2) 'Aviovruv ce cKTleipaius, ipeiwia ruv tbi\u>v evtiv, d K-iVwj/ vcrrtpov rtjc Trpo: 
 KviScv vavf+ayiaq dvioTjpi. Pausan. Attica, c. 2. p./. Lip$.\5g6. 
 
APPROACH TO ATHENS. 
 
 461 
 
 Such is the nature of the place, and such the magnitude of its chap, xi. 
 ruins, that, in a general view, time seems to have spent its 
 ravages upon it in vain. The Acropolis, and the Temples, 
 and the Tombs, and the Theatres, and the Groves, and the 
 Mountains, and the Rocks, and the Plain, and the Gardens, 
 and the Vineyards, and the Fountains, and the Baths, and 
 the Walls, and the Gates, are as they appeared to Pericles, 
 to Socrates, and to Alcibiades. " Adsunt Athene, unde 
 
 HUMANITAS, DOCTRINA, RELIGIO, FRUGES JURA, LEGES ORT^E, 
 ATQUE IN OMNES TERRAS DISTRIBUTEE PUTANTUR ; DE QUARUM 
 POSSESSIONE, PROPTER PULCRRITUDINEM, ETIAM INTER DeOS 
 CERTAMEN PRODITUM EST. UrBS, INQUAM, QU^E VETUSTATE 
 EA EST, UT IPSA EX SESE SUOS C1VES GENUISSE DICATUR : 
 AUTHORITATE AUTEM TANTA, UT JAM FRACTUM PROPE ET 
 DEBILITATUM GREECIJE NOMEN, HUJUS URBIS LAUDE NITATUR." 
 
 
tag Antieru 
 10 Stadawi of'L 
 21 Pedestal 
 *t Fountain ^^^H 
 33 Forum 
 
 34.Tihi/j!c cflli'lTmlt 
 ;.') (Wnimuiiiiiiir'Ptckm 
 26 Tem/'/r nf'TIusW 
 ,\'n,Ti,l (^ritlhrnlktm 
 
 \lhlMrw Hattff Hrtm 
 
 CHAP. XII. 
 
 
 ATHENS. 
 
 Origin of the fabulous Contest between Neptune and Minerva — 
 Antient Sepulchral Monument — Excavations at Athens — View of the 
 Cecropian Citadel — Funereal Aspect of the City — Objects in the 
 perspective — State of the Antiquities — Interesting Relique — Remark 
 upon entering Athens — Guilletiere — Ascent of the Acropolis — 
 Relique of Phidian Sculpture — Adytum of Pan — 'hgci of the Greeks 
 — Portable Shrines — Statue of Pan — Celebrated Artist — Spoliation 
 of the Temples — Comparison between the Grecian and Roman Buildings 
 — Athenian, Posidonian, and iEginetan Architecture — Cause of 
 the Injury sustained in the Sculpture of the Parthenon — Splendid 
 Representation of the Panathenaea — Description of the Work — The 
 Cothurnus, an^Petasus or Pileus — Practice of gilding and painting 
 Statues — Marbles used in the Acropolis — Singular Construction of 
 the Erecth^um — Of the Prytan^um — Temples of Pandrosus and 
 Minerva Polias — Of the Olive, and Well — Propylaea — Walls of 
 
 the 
 
ATHENS. 
 
 463 
 
 CHAP. XII. 
 
 Origin of the 
 fabulous Con- 
 
 the Acropolis — Odeum of Regilla — General description of the 
 Theatres of Greece — Areopagus — Temple of Theseus. 
 
 This road, from the Piraeeus to Athens, extending for about 
 five miles, formerly passed over marshy ground ; for the 
 foundations of the two long walls, which inclosed the Piraeeus 
 within the precincts of Athens, were, according to Plutarch, 
 laid in a marshy soil, prepared for the purpose by being 
 filled with huge pieces of rock 1 . An inference may be 
 deduced from this circumstance, which does not seem to have 
 been noticed ; that inasmuch as the plains of Greece have 
 evidently resulted from the retiring of waters gradually 
 carried off by evaporation and by other causes, the lakes 
 and marshes which remained in antient times were so 
 many reliques of the retreating flood. Hence, perhaps, 
 the origin of the antiquated and popular fable, among the SptuneaS 
 earliest settlers in Attica, of the contest between Neptune 
 and Minerva for the country, rather than that which 
 Plutarch 2 has assigned as the source of it; who believed it 
 to have been founded on the endeavours of the kings to 
 withdraw the people from a sea-faring life to the labours of 
 agriculture. After this contest is said to have happened, 
 Neptune is described as endeavouring to regain the territory 
 by subsequent inundations. Some of the lakes noticed by 
 
 historians 
 
 (1) Af'ytrai tic teal twv fAUKpuv thxuv & (TKeXifKaXovai, ffvvreXeirdtjvai fj.sy varepov 
 n)v otKocojxiav, rrjv ()£ rrpiortji' QefieXiaxriv, eh toxovc eXuSeiv «al diafipo^ove tg>v cpyav 
 lii-maovTMv ipsiadtjvai Sid K/jUwyoc d<r<paXut; } ydXiKi iroXXrj teal XWoig ftapeai tuv 
 iXuv viiaQivTuv, eicetvov ^p7]f.tccta Tropi£ovros Kal hi<)6vToc. Plutarchi Cimon. tpm. III. 
 p. 125. Lond. 1J23. 
 
 (2) Vid. Plutarch, in Themi3t. torn. I. p. 268. Lond. 1729. 
 
^^^J^^i^"S^09ii9 ■ ^jt^JwJj^ V-^ ^^ fa W - it^^^ 
 
 ^m 
 
 
 S2* 
 
 ywy**-'. 
 
 464 
 
 CHAP. XII. 
 
 Antient Se- 
 pulchral 
 Monument. 
 
 Excavations 
 at Athens. 
 
 ATHENS. 
 
 historians arc now become marshes, and the marshes they 
 mention are become dry land. There is now little appearance 
 of marshy land between the Piraeeus and Athens ' : the road 
 lies through vineyards, olive-grounds, and plantations of 
 fig-trees. Several plants were in flower, and the speci- 
 mens we collected were fresher than those we gathered in 
 the islands. In one of the vineyards we saw a Tumulus, 
 which is undoubtedly an antient sepulchre. The monument 
 of Euripides was a Cenotaph, but that of Menander did 
 really contain his ashes. The tomb of Euripides was at 
 Pella, in Macedonia ; possibly, therefore, this mound may 
 have been the sepulchre of the Comic Poet. Pausanias, 
 speaking of the Cenotaph of Euripides, calls it Mrjgfua 8 . 
 This is evidently a Td<pog, but it has upon its summit the 
 remains of some structure, not as for the support of a Stele, 
 but of a Mvnpfiov raised upon the mound ; and this would 
 rather confirm Chandler's opinion, who believed it to be 
 the monument raised to Euripides 3 . It had not been opened 
 at the time of our arrival. The business of making exca- 
 vations among the Grecian tombs was then beginning in 
 the neighbourhood of Athens, and it has since abundantly 
 rewarded the taste of those travellers under whose patronage 
 such labours have been carried on 4 . We observed the remains 
 
 of 
 
 (1) We did not observe any thing of this nature in the road from the Pirceeus ; but 
 in the map of Attica, as surveyed by Stuart, there is notice of a marshy soil borderirg 
 the Phalerum, now called Porto Phanari. See Stuart's Athens, vol. III. Lond. l?94 
 
 (2) See Pausanias, lib. i. c. 2. p. 6. Lips. \6g6. 
 
 (3) See Trav. in Greece, p. 24. Oxf. 1/76. 
 
 (4) A French artist. Mons. Fauvel, is said to have met with great success in these 
 researches. Don Battista Lusieri opened several tombs, and thus made a collection jf 
 
 tie 
 
ATHENS. 
 
 465 
 
 of the antient paved way leading from the Piraeus; chap xir.^ 
 
 also of an aqueduct. As we drew near to the walls, we 
 
 beheld the vast Cecropian Citadel, crowned with temples cecmpiau ; 
 
 Citadel 
 
 that originated in the veneration once paid to the memory 
 
 of 
 
 the most valuable Grecian vases. Among English travellers, the Earl of Aberdeen is 
 particularly distinguished for his liberality in encouraging works of this kind: the more 
 laudable, in being opposed to the lamentable operations which another British Earl, one 
 of his Lordship's countrymen, was then prosecuting, to the utter ruin of the finest works 
 of Antient Greece. To Lord Aberdeen, History and the Fine Arts will ever be indebted, 
 for the pains he bestowed in the excavation and restoration of the Pnyx, and for other 
 similar undertakings. {See Appendix to the Cambridge Marbles, p. 67. Camb. I8O9.) 
 Many of our countrymen have since followed Lord Aberdeen's example. 
 
 Upon the subject of the excavations at Athens, Mr. Walpole has the following 
 observations in his Journal : 
 
 " Travellers who will be at the pains to excavate the soil in the vicinity of Athens 
 will be amply rewarded for their trouble. The vases which Signor Lusieri has found in 
 digging near the city are, in their form and general execution, not to be surpassed by any 
 that have been discovered in Italy and Sicily. Among other remains of antiquity, he has 
 found musical instruments (the avXdt and wXayiavXos, called by the Modern Greeks, 
 rraytavXtov), ornaments of dress of various kinds, ear-rings of gold, and mirrors. These 
 last are of metal : in Pliny (lib. 34.) we find mention of the employment of tin and 
 silver in the fabrication of them : the Jews and Egyptians used those made of brass. In 
 the time of Pompey there were some of silver. The form of the antient mirror is 
 observed frequently on vases in this shape <j>, being the character of one of the planets 
 and a metal; namely, Venus, and copper: the meaning of it, thus applied, is evident, 
 as mirrors were sacred to Venus, and were made of a metal from Cyprus j that is, 
 copper, and were covered with a leaf of silver. In the analysis of a mirror, Caylus 
 discovered a mixture of copper, regulus of antimony, and lead : copper was the pre- 
 ponderating; lead, the least part. 
 
 " In the Ceramicus, near to the site of the Academy, was discovered that very antient 
 and interesting Inscription in verse (now in England), of which Mons. Fauvel gave me a 
 copyat Athens, relating to those Athenians who had fallen at Potidaea, in thePeloponnesian 
 war: the first line, legible, begins, AI0EPMEM$2YXAIYriEAEX2ATO . . . 
 The form of the letters, and other archaisms, render the inscription very valuable. Near 
 the Church of Soteira Lycodemon, probably the site of the antient Lyceum, was found 
 an Inscription copied also by Mons. Fauvel, mentioning Dionysius, Avke'iov tV^fX^'r^c. 
 The removal of the earth from part of the Pnyx has given us a more exact notion of 
 VOL. III. 3 O the 
 

 
 W^B^BI 
 
 466 
 
 CHAP. XII. 
 
 Funereal 
 Aspect of the 
 City. 
 
 ATHENS. 
 
 of the illustrious dead ', surrounded by objects telling the same 
 theme of sepulchral grandeur, and now monuments of de- 
 parted greatness, mouldering in all the solemnity of ruin. So 
 paramount is this funereal character in the approach to Athens 
 from the Pirceens, that as we passed the hill of the Musdum, 
 which was in fact an antient cemetery of the Athenians, we 
 might have imagined ourselves to be among the tombs of 
 Telmessus, from the number of the sepulchres hewn in the 
 rock, and from the antiquity of the workmanship, evidently 
 not of later date than any thing of the kind in Asia Minor. 
 In other respects the city exhibits nearly the appearance 
 so briefly described by Strabo eighteen centuries before 
 our coming 2 ; and perhaps it wears a more magnificent 
 aspect, owing to the splendid remains of Hadrian's Temple 
 of Olympian Jove, which did not exist when Athens 
 
 was 
 
 the form of that celebrated place of assembly. A number of votive offerings were 
 found at the time of the excavation by Lord Aberdeen ; but to what Deity or what 
 temple they belonged, it is difficult to say. On one of them, having an eye sculptured 
 on the stone, were the words EiloSoc w|/(Vrw sif^r/v : on another I saw *S.vvTpo6o<: 
 v\piaru Aift ^apKTrtjpiov ." Walpole" s MS. Journal. 
 
 (1) The first place of worship in the Acropolis of Athens was the Sepulchre of Cecrops. 
 The Parthenon was erected upon the spot. (See the Observations in Ch. XVII. of tie 
 First Part of these Travels, p. 400. Second edit.) The Athenians preserved his tonb 
 in the Acropolis, and that of Ericthonius in the Temple of Minerva Polias. (Vid.Antioci. 
 ap. Clemen. Alexand. torn. I. p.3Q. Oxon. 1715.) Hence Clemens is of opinion tint 
 tombs were the origin of all their temples : Nf«e fiev ev<j)^/u.uc 6vop.aCop.ivov., 
 TU<f>ovs Si ytvofiivovs, Tovrtan rov\ rdcftovt; vfw\- i7riKiK\np.ivovg. Clementis Ale;- 
 andrini Cohortatio ad Gentes, c. 3. torn. I. p. 39. O\on. 1715. 
 
 (2) To £' darv avro irlrpa iarlv iv irehiu, vtptoiKovp.iv>f kvk\^>' iirl Si rij wlrpq. 70 
 rtjr 'AOtjvck; iepov, o, tb dp\cuos vtoh 6 rijs IloAtacSoc, iv y 6 daftearoc Xv^vot, Keti 6 
 Uup6tvi.h>, ov tTrohjGEv Iktivos, iv u ro tov Qticlov 'ipyov iXt&dvrivov, r\ 'Adriiu. 
 Strabon. Geog. lib. viii. p. 574. Oxon. 1S07. 
 
 : -fi JRS^**T*»SWwa«^,- 
 
ATHENS. 
 
 46? 
 
 was visited by the disciple of Xenarchus. The prodigious 
 columns belonging to this temple appeared full in view 
 between the Citadel and the bed of the Ilissus 3 : high 
 upon our left rose the Acropolis, in the most impressive 
 grandeur 4 : an advanced part of the rock upon the western 
 side of it is the Hill of the Areopagus, where St. Paul 
 preached to the Athenians, and where their most solemn 
 tribunal was held 5 . Beyond all, appeared the beautiful 
 Plain of Athens, bounded by Mount Hymettus. We rode 
 towards the craggy rock of the Citadel, passing some 
 tiers of circular arches at the foot of it ; these are 
 the remains of the Oddum of Herodes Atticus 6 , built 
 in memory of his wife Regilla. Thence continuing to 
 skirt the base of the Acropolis, the road winding rather 
 towards the north, we saw also, upon our left, scooped in 
 the solid rock, the circular sweep on which the Athenians 
 were wont to assemble to hear the plays of ^Eschylus, 
 and where the Theatre of Bacchus was afterwards con- 
 structed. The Torso of a statue of the Indian Bacchus, 
 placed, in a sitting attitude, upon the Choragic Monument 
 of Thrasyllus above this theatre, exhibited to us the first 
 
 specimen 
 
 (3) See the Plate facing p. 504, from a drawing by Preaux, made upon the spot: 
 also the Vignette to this Chapter. The author pretends not to agitate the quescion, 
 whether this building be really the Temple of Jupiter, or the Pantheon ; the Reader may 
 be referred to the proofs in support of the former opinion, as they are given by the Earl 
 of Aberdeen, in the Introduction to IFilkins's Translation of Vitruvius, p. 66. also in 
 Note (1) to page Q of the Text of that work. Lond. 1812. 
 
 (4) See the Plate facing p. 504. and Vignette to this Chapter. 
 
 (5) Ibid. (6) Ibid. 
 
 CHAP. XII. 
 
 Objects in the 
 perspective. 
 
 State of the 
 Antiquities. 
 
^^s^s^ss^jtf^ 
 
 
 ■ 
 
 468 
 
 CHAP. XII. 
 
 Interesting 
 Relique. 
 
 ATHENS. 
 
 specimen of Athenian sculpture which we had seen upon 
 the spot; and with the additional satisfaction of viewing 
 it in the situation where it was originally placed'. Stuart 
 considered the theatre as the Oddum of Pericles 2 ; and it is 
 remarkable that Pausanias mentions a statue of Bacchus, as 
 worthy of notice, in a conspicuous situation upon entering 
 the Odeum 5 . Upon the eastern side of this statue, fastened 
 in the rock, appeared a still more interesting relique; namely, 
 the very antient Sun-dial which, in the time of iEschylus, of 
 Sophocles, and Euripides, indicated to the Athenian people 
 the hour at which their plays were to begin. This we had 
 reason to hope would be permitted to remain where it had 
 been so long preserved ; as no antient nor modern Alaric 
 had deemed it to be an object worthy of his regard. Above 
 the statue we saw also the two Choragic Pillars for supporting 
 tripods, described by Chandler 4 and by Stuart 5 , standing high 
 
 upon 
 
 (1) This statue was long believed to be that of a female. Stuart represented it with 
 a female head. (See Stuart's Antic/, of Athens, vol.11, ch.'w. PL 6. LomLl/Sy.) 
 Chandler considered it as the statue of Niobe. (Trav. in Greece, p. 64. Oxf. 17/6.) 
 It really represented the Indian, or bearded, Bacchus ; part of the beard having been 
 discovered upon the statue. It is moreover decorated with the spoils of a pantler. 
 Alas ! not only this Statue, but also the antient Sun-dial near to it, which had exis:ed 
 there ever since the time of iEschylus, Sophocles, and Euripides — antiquities which were 
 only valuable as long as they remained in their original situation — have been since puded 
 down and carried off, in the name of the British Nation, by the agents of our Ambassalor 
 at the Porte!!! 
 
 (2) Antiq. of Athens, vol. II. p. /. Letter k. 
 
 (3) 'Ec ct to Adtjvtjiriv tKjeXdovmp pdeiov, dWd tz Kal kiuvvaoc kutcii deac cttoi. 
 Pausan. lib. i. c. 14. p. 34. Lips. l6g6. 
 
 (4) Trav. in Greece, p. 63. Oxford, 1776. 
 
 (5) Antiq. of Athens, vol. II. ch. 4. Lond. \7%7- 
 
 $r*stfe&mii)*mKW!n* 
 
ATHENS. 
 
 469 
 
 upon the steep acclivity of the rock". Fortunately for us, chap-xii. 
 we arrived before the spoliation of this part of the antient 
 city had been begun, and we therefore saw all these interesting 
 objects as they existed in the time of Pericles. 
 
 We then entered the gate of the modern city; and almost 
 the first object we beheld was the only remaining structure 
 of all the consecrated fabrics that once adorned the famous 
 Street of the Tripods, the elegant choragic Monument of 
 Lysicrates 1 . In the small Capuchin convent annexed to 
 this building, our friend and former companion in the Plain 
 of Troy, Don Battista Lusieri 8 , had fixed his residence. 
 A monk told us that he was then busy in the Acropolis, making 
 drawings in the Erectheum ; therefore leaving our horses 
 and baggage, we set out instantly in pursuit of him, 
 anticipating the gratification we should receive, not only in 
 
 surprising 
 
 (6) See the Plate. 
 
 (7) See Stuart's Antiq. of Athens, vol. I. ch. iv. Plate 3. Land. 1J62. 
 
 (8) This celebrated artist, better known by the name of Don Tita, is a native of 
 Naples : he resided many years in Italy, where he was renowned for his beautiful 
 drawings in water-colours. Many of his best works are in the Collections of our 
 English Nobility. By some, his compositions have been deemed too laboured ; but his 
 colouring is exquisite, and nothing can exceed the fidelity and perfection of his outline 
 and perspective. It may be said of Lusieri, as of Claude Lorrain, " If he be not the Poet, 
 he is the Historian of Nature." When the French invaded Naples, he retired to Sicily, 
 and was long employed among the Ruins of Agrigentum, devoted entirely to his favourite 
 pursuit. The desire of seeing Greece tempted him to follow the British Embassy to 
 Constantinople in 1799- whence he removed to Athens $ where he now lives, sur- 
 rounded by every thing that may exercise his genius j and where he is not less 
 distinguished by his amiable disposition, and disinterested attention to travellers who visit 
 the city, than by his taste, and knowledge of every thing connected with the history of 
 the Pine Arts. 
 

 
 470 
 
 CHAP. XII. 
 
 Remarks upon 
 
 entering 
 
 Athens, 
 
 ATHENS. 
 
 surprising him by our appearance where he had not the 
 smallest expectation of seeing us, but also in viewing the 
 noblest monuments of antiquity with a Cicerone so well 
 qualified to point out their beauties. 
 
 As we are now about to ascend the Acropolis, and of 
 course to enter upon a description of antiquities which are 
 well known, it is necessary to premise that our observations 
 will be brief. To give a detailed account of every thing 
 which has been hitherto deemed worthy of notice in such 
 a city as Athens, would be as much a work of supererogation 
 as to republish all the inscriptions which have been found 
 in the place, and to renew the detail of every circumstance 
 so often related concerning its antient history. The author's 
 remarks will be confined to such observations as, to the 
 best of his knowledge, have not been made by former 
 travellers ; but perhaps, even in such a communication, it 
 will not be always possible to avoid repeating what others 
 may have said. A mistaken opinion prevailed until towards 
 the end of the seventeenth century 1 , that the remains of 
 Athens had been almost rased from the earth, and that even 
 its name no longer existed. The few merchants who re- 
 sorted to the Piraeus, from Italy and from other parts of the 
 Mediterranean, had given to it the barbarous appellation of 
 
 Setines, 
 
 (l) Chandler says, " until the middle of the sixteenth century;" but the public 
 curiosity does not appear to have been directed to this city until long after the publication 
 of the work to which he alludes. 
 
ATHENS. 
 
 471 
 
 Serines, or Sethina-; although, " of all the antient cities in chap, xii. 
 Greece," as an early traveller hath remarked who will pre- 
 sently be more particularly noticed, " no one has preserved its 
 name with better success than Athens has done ; for both 
 Greeks and Turks call it 'A0tivtj." This is another instance 
 of the corruptions introduced into the modern nomencla- 
 ture of places in Greece by Italians and by Frenchmen : 
 and it ought to be the constant endeavour of authors, by 
 whom the country is described, to prevent this abuse, by 
 adopting the antient names in their writings, where it can 
 be done with propriety, and certainly in all cases where 
 they have been preserved by the inhabitants. It has been 
 supposed that the first intelligence of the better fate of 
 Athens was communicated to the world by the valuable 
 publications of Sir George Wheler and Jacob Spon : but 
 seven years before Wheler and his companion arrived in 
 Athens, it had been visited by the traveller above mentioned; 
 who anticipated almost every thing which they have said 
 upon this subject ; and the narrative of whose Travels, 
 
 although 
 
 (2) Sethina, and Satina, are corruptions, according to Portus and Meursius, from 
 etc 'A6>}vd. Various conjectures have arisen touching the origin of the antient name. 
 Heinsius (in Aristar. Sac. Synt. I. 1. p. 2J.) derives it from the Chaldaean ton thena, 
 signifying to study or learn, written with an article, hatthena. In the time of Diodorus 
 Siculus, and before him, it was a received opinion that Athens was peopled by the 
 Egyptians: Sais in the Egyptian language answering to Athence in Greek. The word 
 Sethina is found in the Latin Poem of Hugo Favolius (in Hodcep. Byz. I. iii.) who 
 himself visited the spot. 
 
 " Undique sic miserae nobis spectantur Athenae, 
 
 Daedala quas Pallas sese coluisse negaret, 
 
 Quas, Neptune pater, nunquam tua mcenia dicas, 
 
 Indigenae Sethina vocant." — — — 
 
472 
 
 CHAP. XII. 
 
 Guilletiere. 
 
 ATHENS. 
 
 although little known and rarely noticed by any subsequent 
 author, contains the most racy description of the city and 
 of its inhabitants, of its antiquities and statistics, which 
 had appeared before the time of its publication. This 
 traveller was De La Guilletiere, or, as he sometimes signed 
 himself, Guillet, answering to a name common in England, 
 Willet. After four years of slavery in Barbary, he arrived in 
 Athens, in company with two Italians, two Germans, and an 
 Englishman of the name of Drelingston, the first of our 
 countrymen who voluntarily undertook this voyage for the 
 mere gratification of classical taste and literary curiosity. 
 The original edition of Guilletiere 's work appeared in Paris 
 in January 1675. In the beginning of June in the same year, 
 Wheler " hastened to Venice," (it is his own expression 1 ,) 
 after his travels in France and Italy, in search of Dr. Spo?i, 
 to accompany him upon a similar voyage. It is therefore 
 highly probable that the success of Guilletiere 's expedition 
 excited Wheler to this sudden undertaking : that he had 
 seen his work is evident, for he cites it, calling its author 
 De La Guiltier*, and Guiliter 5 ; and although he speaks 
 rather lightly of his predecessor 4 , he sometimes copies him 
 without owning his obligation 5 . His companion, Spon, had 
 
 done 
 
 (1) Wheler's Journey into Greece, p. 1. Land. 1682. 
 
 (2) Ibid p. 340. 
 
 (3) Ibid. p. 363. 
 
 (4) " But not as Monsieur Guiliter affirmeth" .... " My companion and I were 
 
 not so much surprized, &c. as Monsieur Guiliter" those marvelous stones 
 
 Monsieur Guiliter makes such a miracle of" .... &c. Ibid. 
 
 (5) Of this, several instances may be pointed out, where the transcript is as literal as 
 it can be from one language into another. " A l'egard du langage, il est le plus pur, et 
 le moins corrompu de la Grece." (Guillet, p. 155. Paris, 1675.) " The Athenians 
 
 seem 
 
 ?3Wa^**»sw*.., 
 
ATHENS. 4^3 
 
 done the same ; but, with all his learning, he has not pro- chap. xii. 
 duced either so entertaining a work as that of Guilletiere, 
 or, divested of its inscriptions, one that contains more of 
 information. We may therefore, perhaps, look to Guilletiere 
 as to the person who first drew the attention of English 
 travellers towards the Ruins of Athens ; for although the 
 Letters, giving a description of the city, which were published 
 by Martin Crusius, appeared nearly a hundred years before, 
 yet those Letters have attracted more notice in this country 
 since, than before, Wheler s time ; and they always tended 
 rather to maintain than to confute the erroneous notion, 
 which was so long prevalent, concerning the condition of 
 the city 6 . Guilletiere' s unassuming although very diminutive 
 publication is so comprehensive, that, abating a few partial 
 inaccuracies, the consequences of pursuing an untrodden 
 path, his book is, even at the present day, a useful guide to 
 the antiquities of Athens ; and his plan of the city, rude as 
 it may appear among the works of later artists, is so much 
 
 better 
 
 seem to retain more of the antient Greek in their language than the rest of the modern 
 Greeks do. 1 * {Wheler' s Journey into Greece, p. 355. Lond. 1682.) And, after all, 
 this is not true ; for the purest Greek is not spoken in Athens. Again, Guilletiere, after 
 the passage, which the author has cited, concerning the existence of the antient name of 
 the city, says, " Nos geographes ont beau nous le vouloir alterer en l'appellant Setines." 
 Wheler transcribes the whole; and also adds, « I wonder our modern geographers have 
 been no better informed concerning so eminent a place, calling it most corruptly, in their 
 maps, Setines". . . &c. There are many other examples of a similar nature, in the 
 Volumes both of Wheler and Spon. 
 
 (6) One of those Letters is from a native of Nauplia : it was written in 1575. Its 
 
 author says, <"A\\rf rt tuv 'AOijvw fivr^dt, fxaKpoXoycZ; Up^a Xe^de^ag rov 
 
 rrdXat work frov. Sed quid multa de Athenis dico ? Superest hodie tantum pellis : 
 
 animal ipsum olim periit." Vid. Epist. Fam. TurcograscicB, lib. vii. p. 430. Basil. 1583. 
 
 VOL. III. 3 P 
 

 47* 
 
 CHAP. XII. 
 
 Ascent of the 
 Acropolis. 
 
 ATHENS. 
 
 better than that which Whdcr afterwards edited, that it 
 is strange the latter did not adopt it in his work. 
 
 As we ascended the steep rock on which the Citadel stands, 
 our first subject of wonder was the power displayed by the 
 Antients in conveying up such an acclivity the enormous 
 masses of marble necessary in the construction of so man}- 
 sumptuous edifices ; when all the skill and ingenuity of the 
 best workmen in Europe were requisite, at the time of our 
 arrival, to remove some of the most delicate ornaments of 
 the temples, in an entire state, from the Acropolis to the 
 lower city. None of the materials of those temples are of 
 the same nature as the rock upon which they were erected : 
 the quarries of Pentelicus, of Hymettus, of the Cyclades, of 
 Lacedcemon, and of the most distant mountains of Greece, 
 contributed to the works necessary for their completion. 
 All the huge blocks of marble required for the several parts 
 of each building must have been moved up the same steep ; 
 for there is now, as there was formerly, but one way facing 
 the Piraeus by which the summit may be approached 1 . 
 [n our ascent we found an inscription on white marble, 
 stating that " the Senate of the Areopagus, and of the six 
 hundred, &c. honour Julius," &c. the rest being wanted: 
 we could only make out the following characters : 
 
 HEZAPEIOYHArOYBOY 
 
 AHTI1NEEAKOZIX2NKAI 
 
 IOYAION N I KAN OPA . . 
 Soon afterwards, somewhat higher up, we also saw, among 
 
 some 
 
 (l) 'Ec £« ti)v aKpoToXip, toriv ntroloc fita, (ircpav £t ov 7raptysTcti, vaact 
 awoTonos otiaa) teal retvos t^ovoa cyypdv. Pausaniae Attica, c. 22. p. 51. Lips. l6g6. 
 
 «? hIS' rWlM&M-Mum.— I 
 
ATHENS. 
 
 475 
 
 some loose stones used as the materials of a wall, near 
 to the gate of the Citadel, a piece of sculpture of white 
 marble in very bold relief, representing the torso of a 
 male figure. This proved to be nothing less than a frag- 
 ment of one of the metopes belonging to the Parthenon; 
 and therefore, as the undoubted work of Phidias, although 
 but a fragment, could not fail to be regarded by us as 
 a valuable relique, and a very great curiosity. It was 
 not to be easily procured ; neglected and abandoned as 
 we found it lying; owing to the embargo then laid upon 
 every thing of this kind by our Ambassador, and the 
 absolute prohibition against moving any thing, excepting 
 into his store-house. The Disdar, however, afterwards 
 claimed it as his property, and presented it to us; and 
 it is now in the Vestibule of the University Library at 
 Cambridge, a solitary example of sculpture removed from the 
 ruins of the Parthenon without injuring what time and the 
 Goths have spared. Upon the left hand we saw, in the face 
 of the rock, the small cavern which perhaps may be consi- 
 dered as the Grotto of Pan; for this, by its relative position 
 to other objects, seems to be the identical cavity which is 
 represented in the view of the Acropolis preserved upon 
 an antient medal of Athens in the Collection at Paris 2 . 
 It is below the right wing of the Propylcea, or antient 
 vestibules of the Citadel, in the situation which Pausanias 
 assigns for it : and somewhat lower in the rock is the fountain 
 
 mentioned 
 
 CHAP. XII. 
 
 Relique of 
 
 Phidian 
 
 Sculpture. 
 
 Adytum 
 of Pan. 
 
 (2) See the Greek Coin engraved for Barthelemy's Anacharsis, Tab. XXVII. No. 1. 
 Paris, 179O. 
 

 M 
 
 
 476 
 
 A THEN S. 
 
 chap, xti. mentioned also by him 1 . In other respects it seems ill suited 
 to the stories which caused it to be considered as the scene of 
 Apollo s amours with Creusa, and as a place of residence for 
 Pan: but when the mind is completely subdued by super- 
 stition, it is seldom burdened by any scruples' as to proba- 
 bility : the same priests who now exhibit at Jerusalem the 
 altar of a small chapel as the Hill of the Crucifixion* are a 
 modern example of the NaopuXaxeg who attended the Shrine 
 of Pan, and they possess a degree of intellect as well 
 calculated for admitting the extravagances related of the one 
 as of the other. The Grotto, as it now appears, seems to be 
 nothing more than one of those niches in which votive- 
 offerings were placed; and although described as a cave 
 which contained a temple of Apollo, and of Pan 3 , would 
 barely admit the size of a human figure. But this allusion 
 in antient history to temples so diminutive that they could 
 not have exceeded the size of a child's baby-house, may 
 receive illustration, like many other parts of the Heathen 
 religion, from existing superstitions. The subject has not 
 perhaps been sufficiently explained; as none of the authors 
 who have written on Grecian antiquities seem to be aware 
 of a custom which has been transmitted from the earliest 
 ages of Pagan worship to modern times. The 'Is^a of the 
 Greeks, as well as the Tabernacles of Eastern nations, were 
 
 sometimes 
 
 'lig<x of the 
 Greeks. 
 
 (1) Kctrafidcri Bt ovk te rrjy kcItu ttoXiv, cfW oaov vtto rd 7rpoirv\a.ia, mfyfi Tt 
 vdaTOc tun, teal irXrjcriov ' AttoWuvos iepov iv tnnfkaia, ical Ylav6<:. Pausaniae, lib. i. 
 cap. 28. p. 68. Lips. I6g6. 
 
 (2) See the former Section, cap. xvi. p. 54^. Second Edition. 
 
 (3) Vid. Pausan. lib. i. ubi supra. 
 
ATHENS. 
 
 47? 
 
 sometimes not only portable, but they were so small, that 
 the zia-rcci Ugbs), used for inclosing them during journeys, 
 scarcely exceeded the size of the fashionable snuff-boxes 
 now used by the petit-maitres of Paris and London. 
 Examples of this kind of portable shrine are particularly 
 common in Russia, and in all countries professing the 
 religion of the Greek Church: they are made either of 
 wood or of metal, with two little folding-doors, which are 
 thrown open when the Bogh or idol is to be worshipped 4 . Of 
 such a nature were the shrines alluded to in the history of 
 the actions of the Apostles, where Demetrius is described as 
 stirring up those who made silver shrines or tabernacles for 
 Diana 5 ; that is to say, little temples, or cabinets after the 
 manner of temples. The custom of using them has been 
 retained among the Roman-Catholics. The first converts to 
 Christianity brought the use of portable temples with them 
 into the Christian Church; for, according to Socrates Scho- 
 lasticus, the Emperor Constantine carried with him a portable 
 temple in his expedition against the Persians, not for the 
 worship of any idol, but of the true God 6 : this was a kind 
 of fczz^said to resemble the tabernacle of Moses in the desert 7 . 
 Temples of this kind were also drawn by cattle. The Philistines 
 
 sent 
 
 CHAP. XII. 
 
 Portable 
 Shrines. 
 
 (4) The pictures of Roman-Catholic churches have preserved the form of these 
 shrines to a very late age; the doors themselves being painted, and serving, when thrown 
 open, to exhibit a subject in three com parti men ts. Of this form was the famous picture 
 of the Crucifixion, by Rubens, in the Cathedral at Antwerp. 
 
 (5) Acts xix. 24. 
 
 (6) Socrates Scholasticus, lib. i. c. 18. Cantab. 1^20. 
 
 (7) Ibid. 
 
:\Qii-^tCx!*ot<.*r.y9t* 
 
 
 
 ......... 
 
 ATHENS. 
 
 sent back " the Ark of the God of Israel" in "a new 
 cart" drawn by " two milch kine 1 ." The temple of Agrotes, 
 according to Sanchoniatho, was drawn by oxen. The portable 
 temple was also sometimes carried upon men's shoulders: 
 and although the " bearing" or " talcing up of Tabernacles" 
 are expressions used metaphorically in Scripture for the 
 adoration paid to them, yet they are borrowed from a 
 practice, which was well known at the time, of carrying 
 the Tabernacle upon the shoulders of men from one place 
 to another. Thus the Israelites are said to have " borne" 
 and to " take up" the " Tabernacle of Moloch 2 ." Such 
 portable temples among the Antients were conveyed with 
 them to their wars, and accompanied them upon their 
 travels. This was the constant usage of the Arabians 3 , 
 Egyptians 4 , Trojans 5 , Carthaginians 6 , and Germans 7 . When 
 settlements were made, and cities built, they were of 
 course deposited in safe but conspicuous places; in cavities 
 fashioned for the purpose, within the rocks on which their 
 citadels stood; or in niches, by the side of their most 
 frequented roads. Hiera, answering to this description, 
 are found at this day, in all countries professing the 
 
 Greek 
 
 (1) 1 Sam. c. vi. 3, 7, &c. 
 
 (2) Amos, c. v. Psalms, &c. 
 
 (3) See the authors quoted by Hottinger, Comp. Theatri Orient, c. i. 
 
 (4) Apuleius Apol. p. 506. 
 
 (5) See Servius on iEn. vi. ver. 68. Dio, lib. xl. Herodian. lib. iv. and Amni. 
 Marcellinus, lib. xxii. 
 
 (6) See Calmet's Diet. art. Niches ,• and the authors referred to by Fal-rkiu., 
 Bibliographia Ant. c. viii. IS. 
 
 (7) Tacit, de Mor. Germ. 
 
ATHENS. 
 
 479 
 
 Statue of 
 Pan. 
 
 Greek and Roman-Catholic religions; before which votive t CHAp - xir. 
 gifts are placed, as in former ages : and this seems sufficient 
 to explain the sort of temples alluded to by antient authors, 
 as being here stationed within a niche, called the Cave of Pan, 
 in the face of the rock below the Acropolis of Athens. 
 Within this cave there formerly stood a statue of the goat- 
 footed God; who, on that account, was said by Euripides 8 , 
 and by Lucian y , to have fixed his residence at Athens, beneath 
 the northern or Pelasgic wall of the Acropolis: and it is 
 rather remarkable, that in a garden below this Grotto at 
 the foot of the rock, there was discovered a marble statue 
 of Pan, of a size to suit the cavity, which exactly corresponds 
 with the description of the antient image in the Grotto, 
 bearing a trophy upon its head 10 ; for the iron cramp, by 
 which this burden was sustained and connected with the mass 
 of marble used for the lower part of the figure, yet remains. 
 We saw this statue upon the spot where it was discovered ; 
 and we removed it to the University of Cambridge, 
 where it is now placed, with the other Greek Marbles, 
 
 in 
 
 (8) K|0. ''Aicove TOivvv' olaQa K.£Kpo7ria<; TrtTpar, j 
 
 TJpdfrfioppov dvrpov, dV MctKpd<; KtKkijOKdfiev. 
 Up. Qic, cvOa Havoc dhvTa, teal (iafiol irfKac. 
 " Audi igitur: novisti Cecropias rupes, 
 
 Septentrionale in iis antrum, quas Macras vocamus?" 
 <e Scio, ubi est sacellum Panis et ara prope." 
 
 Euripid. in Ion. 936. p. 334. Edit. Barnes. Cantab. 16Q4. 
 
 (9) Kat to dtr tKtivov, rrjv viro rrj dtcpoTroXti <T7r>j\vyya ravrrjv aVoXfi/jo^evoc, o'ikh 
 piKpov v7ro tov HtXacyiKov, k. t. X. Luc'iani Bis Accusatus, torn. VII. p.OO. Bipont. 1790. 
 
 (10) Lucian. Deorum Dialogi, xxii. 3. Panis et Mercurii. Bipont. 179O. 
 
■■■Hi HSU 
 
 
 480 
 
 CHAP. XII. 
 
 ATHENS; 
 
 in the Vestibule of the Public Library 1 . The drapery afforded 
 
 by the spoils of a goat thrown over the figure is executed 
 
 in the very antient style of sculpture called Graeco-Etruscan ; 
 
 and there is great reason to believe that this is the identical 
 
 statue alluded to by Lucian, as before cited. Not far from 
 
 the same place there was also found the torso of a small 
 
 marble statue of Apollo, of a more diminutive size than 
 
 that of Pan, but executed in a style of sculpture equal to 
 
 any thing produced in the most splendid rera of the art. This 
 
 we also brought to England. There is certainly something 
 
 singular in such an association so near to the Adytum, 
 
 said to be tenanted by these two Deities. The identity 
 
 of the Grotto itself was a theme of dispute among earlier 
 
 travellers, who gave to the subject more consideration than 
 
 perhaps it may seem to merit. Guilletiere is the first of the 
 
 moderns by whom it is noticed. He had been with his 
 
 companions to visit the small chapel called Panagia Spilio- 
 
 tissa, or our Lady of the Grotto, in a hollow of the rock 
 
 above the Theatre of Bacchus, at the south-east angle of the 
 
 Acropolis ; which a Greek spy, a native of Candia, had pointed 
 
 out to the Venetians as a proper place to serve as a mine in 
 
 blowing 
 
 (1) An engraving of this statue, from a drawing by the celebrated Flaxman, was 
 made for Mr. Wilkins's Antiquities of Magna Graecia (p. 71). For a further account 
 of it, see " Greek Marbles," p. Q. No. XI. Camb. I8O9. The author is however 
 fully disposed to agree in the opinion which was first suggested by Flaxman, that the 
 burden upon the head (which, from the appearance of the iron cramp, must have been 
 equal in size to the whole mass of the marble) was the identical trophy mentioned by 
 Lucian. 
 
ATHENS. 
 
 blowing up the citadel 4 . Guilletiere persuaded himself that 
 the Panagia was nothing less than the actual grotto once 
 dedicated to Apollo and Pan, which is mentioned by Euri- 
 pides in two or three of his tragedies 5 . Seven years after 
 Guilletiere s visit, the same cavern was examined by Wheler 
 and by Spon ; both of whom deny that it was the Grotto of 
 Pan, as mentioned by Guilletiere; and they place the real 
 Grotto of Pan upon the northern side of the Citadel, beneath 
 the Pelasgic Wall, according to the testimonies of Euripides 
 and of Lucian 4 . Chandler afterwards confirmed their obser- 
 vations 5 : and in this state the question now rests; no one 
 having since expressed any doubt upon the subject. 
 
 As we drew near to the present entrance of the Citadel, 
 we passed before the facade of the Bropylcea; the old 
 entrance to the Acropolis between its Doric pillars being 
 walled up. The Turkish guard at the gate suffered us to 
 pass as soon as we mentioned the name of Lusieri ; and one 
 of them offered to conduct us to the spot where he was 
 then at work. We found him in the midst of the ruins 
 of the Erecthdum, seated upon a heap of stones, with his 
 
 drawing 
 
 481 
 
 CHAP. XII. 
 
 (2) Voyage d' Athens par S r . De la Guilletiere, p. 180. Paris, 1675. 
 
 (3) " Des que nous fusmes sortis de Panagia, j'obligeay nos gens a tourner la teste 
 pour y regarder avec plus d'attention, parce que je les fis souvenir que c'estoit la cette 
 Grotte si celebre dans l'antiquite, &c. Grace a la durete du rocher, c'est la le plus entier 
 de tous les celebres monumens qui nous sont restez de l'ancienne Athenes. Euripide 
 a parle de cet autre, en deux ou trois endroits de ses trajedies." Hid. p. 1 79. 
 
 (4) Euripid. in Ion. vv. 17,501,936. Lucian, as before cited. See Wheler's Journey 
 into Greece, p. 369. Lond. 1082. Also Voyage par Jacob Spon, torn. II. p. 97. d, la 
 Haye, 1724. 
 
 (5) Chandler's Travels in Greece, p. 59. Oxford, \77Q. 
 
 VOL. III. 3 Q 
 

 
 482 
 
 ATHENS. 
 
 :IL drawing implements before him, equally surprised and 
 delighted to see us once more, and in such a place. It 
 happened that the very pencil which he was then using was 
 one of several, made by Middleton, which the author had 
 conveyed for him from England to Naples many years before. 
 He had only two remaining : and he considered them of so 
 much importance to the perfection of his designs, that he 
 would willingly have purchased more at an equal weight of 
 gold ; using them only in tracing the outline, and as 
 sparingly as possible. The best illustration of his remark 
 was in a sight of the outlines he had then finished. It might 
 have been said of the time he had spent in Athens, as of 
 Apelles, " Nulla dies sine lined : but such was the extraor- 
 dinary skill and application shewn in the designs he was then 
 completing, that every grace and beauty of the sculpture, 
 every fair and exquisite proportion, every trace of the 
 injuries which time had effected upon the building, every 
 vein in the marble, were visible in the drawing ; and in 
 such perfection, that even the nature and qualities of the 
 stone itself might be recognised in the contour 1 . He would 
 not hear of our descending again from the Acropolis before 
 
 the 
 
 (l) Whoever may hereafter be the possessor of these Drawings, will have in the mere 
 outlines (for it is impossible this artist can ever finish the collection he has made) a repre- 
 sentation of the antiquities and beautiful scenery of Greece, inferior to nothing but the 
 actual sight of them. Hitherto no Maecenas has dignified himself by any thing deserving 
 the title of a patron of such excellence. Many have bought his designs when he could 
 be induced to part with them, by which means he has barely obtained subsistence ; and 
 he is too passionately attached to the sources which Athens has atForded to his genius, 
 to abandon Greece, even for the neglect which, in his letters to the author, he complains 
 of having there experienced. 
 
ATHENS. 
 
 483 
 
 the evening : but gave us a recommendation to the house 
 of a widow, sister of the late English Consul, where he 
 said we might be comfortably lodged; and to which he 
 promised to conduct us, after dining with him and the 
 Disdar or Governor of the citadel, in the midst of the 
 splendid remains of architecture and sculpture by which we 
 were surrounded. He became our guide to all the different 
 buildings; and began by shewing us the Parthenon. Some 
 workmen, employed under his direction for the British 
 Ambassador, were then engaged in making preparation, by 
 means of ropes and pulleys, for taking down the metopes, 
 where the sculpture remained the most perfect. The 
 Disdar himself came to view the work, but with evident 
 marks of dissatisfaction ; and Lusieri told us that it was with 
 great difficulty he could accomplish this part of his under- 
 taking, from the attachment the Turks entertained towards 
 a building which they had been accustomed to regard with 
 religious veneration, and had converted into a mosque. 
 We confessed that we participated the Mahometan feeling 
 in this instance, and would gladly see an order enforced to 
 preserve rather than to destroy such a glorious edifice. 
 After a short time spent in examining the several parts of 
 the temple, one of the workmen came to inform Don Battista 
 that they were then going to lower one of the metopes. 
 We saw this fine piece of sculpture raised from its station 
 between the triglyphs : but the workmen endeavouring to 
 give it a position adapted to the projected line of descent, 
 a part of the adjoining masonry was loosened by the 
 machinery; and down came the fine masses of Pentelican 
 
 marble, 
 
 CHAP. XII. 
 
 Spoliation 
 of the 
 Temples. 
 

 nasm 
 
 484 
 
 ATHENS. 
 
 marble, scattering their white fragments with thundering 
 noise among the ruins. The Disdar, seeing this, could no 
 longer restrain his emotions ; but actually took his pipe from 
 his mouth, and, letting fall a tear, said in a most emphatical 
 tone of voice, "TsXo?!" positively declaring that nothing 
 should induce him to consent to any further dilapidation of 
 the building'. Looking up, we saw with regret the gap that 
 had been made; which all the ambassadors of the earth, with 
 all the sovereigns they represent, aided by every resource that 
 wealth and talent can now bestow, will never again repair. 
 As to our friend Lusieri, it is hardly necessary to exculpate 
 
 him: 
 
 (1) This man was, however, poor, and had a family to support ; consequently he was 
 unable to withstand the temptations which a little money, accompanied by splendid 
 promises, offered to the necessities of his situation. So far from adhering to his resolution 
 he was afterwards gradually prevailed upon to allow all the finest pieces of sculpture 
 belonging to the Parthenon to betaken down} and succeeding tiavellers speak with 
 concern of the injuries the building has sustained, exclusively of the loss caused by the 
 removal of the metopes. One example of this nature may be mentioned j which, while 
 it shews the havoc that has been carried on, will also prove the want of taste and utter 
 barbarism of the undertaking. In one of the angles of the pediment which was over 
 the eastern facade of the temple, there was a horse's head, supposed to be intended 
 for the horse of Neptune issuing from the earth, when struck by his trident, during 
 his altercation with Minerva for the possession of Attica. The head of this animal had been 
 so judiciously placed by Phidias, that, to a spectator below, it seemed to be rising from 
 an abyss, foaming, and struggling to burst from its confined situation, with a degree of 
 energy suited to the greatness and dignity of its character. All the perspective of the 
 sculpture (if such an expression be admissible), and certainly all the harmony and fitness 
 of its proportions, and all the effect of attitude and force of composition, depended upon 
 the work being viewed precisely at the distance in which Phidias designed that it should 
 be seen. Its removal, therefore, from its situation amounted to nothing less than its 
 destruction: — take it down, and all the aim of the sculptor is instantly frustrated ! 
 Could any one believe that this was actually done ? and that it was done, too, in the 
 name of a nation vain of its distinction in the Fine Arts ? Nay more, that in doing this, 
 finding the removal of this piece of sculpture could not be effected without destroying 
 
 the 
 
 I^J^m^^^mnMt, 
 
ATHENS. 4g>5 
 
 him; because he could only obey the orders he had received, chap.xii. 
 
 and this he did with manifest reluctance: neither was there 
 
 a workman employed in the undertaking, among the artists 
 
 sent out of Rome for that purpose, who did not express his 
 
 concern that such havoc should be deemed necessary, after 
 
 moulds and casts had been already made of all the sculpture 
 
 which it was designed to remove. The author would 
 
 gladly have avoided the introduction of this subject: but 
 
 as he was an eye-witness of these proceedings, it constitutes 
 
 a part of the duties he has to fulfil in giving the narrative 
 
 of his travels; and if his work be destined to survive him, 
 
 it 
 
 the entire angle of the pediment, the work of destruction was allowed to proceed even 
 to this extent also ? Thus the form of the temple has sustained a greater injury than it 
 had already experienced from the Venetian artillery ; and the horse's head has been 
 removed, to be placed where it exhibits nothing of its original effect: like the acqui- 
 sition said to have been made by another Nobleman, who, being delighted at a puppet- 
 show, bought punch, and was chagrined to find when he carried him home that the 
 figure had lost all its humour. Yet we are seriously told, (Memorandum, p. 8. Lond. 
 1811.) that this mischief has been done with a view to " rescue these specimens of 
 sculpture from impending ruin:" then, why not exert the same influence which was 
 employed in removing them, to induce the Turkish Government to adopt measures for 
 their effectual preservation! Ah no! a wiser scheme was in agitation: it was at first 
 attempted to have them all mended by some modern artist ! ! ! (See Memor. p. 39.) 
 From this calamity they were rescued by the good taste of Canova. (Ibid.) The sight of 
 them (Memor. p. 42.) " so rivetted and agitated the feelings of Mrs. Siddons, the pride 
 of theatrical representation, as actually to draw tears from her eyes." And who marvels 
 at such emotion ? 
 
 " Cold is the heart, fair Greece ! that looks on thee, 
 
 Nor feels as lovers o'er the dust they lov'd ; 
 
 Dull is the eye that will not weep to see 
 
 Thy walls defae'd, thy mouldering shrines reruov'd 
 
 By British hands, which it had best hehov'd 
 
 To guard those relics — ne'er to he fstor'd. 
 
 Curst be the hour when from their isle they rov'd, 
 
 And once again thy ijapless bosom gor'd, 
 And snatch'd thy shrinking Gods to northern climes abhorr'd." 
 
 Childe Harold's Pilgrimage, Canto II. 15. Lond. 1812. 
 

 ■J tSvrv* 
 
 
 486 
 
 CHAP. XII. 
 
 Comparison 
 between the 
 Grecian 
 and Roman 
 Buildings. 
 
 ATHENS. 
 
 it shall not, by its taciturnity with regard to the spoliation 
 of the Athenian temples, seem to indicate any thing like 
 an approval of the measures which have tended so materially 
 towards their destruction. 
 
 To a person who has seen the ruins of Rome, the first 
 suggestion made by a sight of the buildings in the Acropolis 
 is that of the infinite superiority of the Athenian architecture. 
 It possesses the greatness and majesty of the Egyptian, or 
 of the antient Etruscan style, with all the elegant propor- 
 tions, the rich ornaments, and the discriminating taste of the 
 most splendid aera of the Arts. "Accustomed as we were," 
 said Stuart 1 , in speaking of the Parthenon, " to the antient 
 and modern magnificence of Rome, and, by what we had 
 heard and read, impressed with an advantageous opinion of 
 what we were come to see, we found the image our fancy 
 had preconceived greatly inferior to the real object." Yet 
 Wheler, who upon such a subject cannot be considered 
 as of equal authority wi\h Stuart, says of the monuments 
 of antiquity yet remaining in Athens 2 , " I dare prefer them 
 before any place in the world, Rome only excepted." If 
 there be existing upon the earth any buildings which may 
 fairly be brought into a comparison with the Parthenon, 
 they are the temples of P cesium in Lucania; but even 
 these can only be so with reference to their superior 
 antiquity, to their severe simplicity, and to the perfection 
 of design visible in their structure: in graceful proportion, 
 
 in 
 
 (1) Antiquities of Athens, vol. II. p. 9. Lond. \JS" . 
 
 (2) Journey into Greece, BookV. p. 357. Lond. \682. 
 
ATHENS. 
 
 in magnificence, in costliness of materials, in splendid deco- 
 ration, and in every thing that may denote the highest degree 
 of improvement to which the Doric style of architecture 
 ever attained, they are vastly inferior. This is at least the 
 author's opinion. Lusieri, however, entertained different 
 sentiments; and his authority upon such a subject is much 
 mote worthy of the reader's attention. Lusieri had resided 
 at Pcestum; and had dedicated to those buildings a degree 
 of study which, added to his knowledge of the arts, well 
 qualified him to decide upon a question as to the relative 
 merits of the Athenian and Posidonian specimens of Grecian 
 architecture. His opinion is very remarkable: he considered 
 the temples of Pcestum as examples of a purer style; or, 
 as he termed it, of a more correct and classical taste. " In 
 those buildings," said he, " the Doric order attained a pre- 
 eminence beyond which it never passed; not a stone has 
 been there placed without some evident and important design ; 
 every part of the structure bespeaks its own essential utility." 
 Pie held the same opinion with regard to the Temple of the 
 Panhellenian Jupiter in the Island of iEgina. " Of such 
 a nature," he added, " were works in architecture, when 
 the whole aim of the architect was to unite grandeur with 
 utility; the former being founded on the latter. All then 
 was truth, strength, and sublimity." According to his 
 opinion, a different character is applicable to the Parthenon. 
 In this building, the Doric, having attained its due propor- 
 tions, was supposed to be displayed with every perfection 
 which the arts of Greece could accomplish; but this has 
 not been the case. In all that relates to harmony, elegance, 
 
 execution, 
 
 Athenian, 
 Posidonian, 
 and sEginetan 
 Architecture. 
 

 488 
 
 ATHENS. 
 
 chap. xir. execution, beauty, proportion, the Parthenon stands :a 
 chef-d'oeuvre; every portion of the sculpture by which iit 
 is so highly decorated has all the delicacy of a. cameo: buit 
 still there are faults in the building, and proofs of negligence?, 
 which are not found in the temples of Paestum; and thes«e 
 Lusieri considered as striking evidences of the state o>f 
 public morals in the gay days of Pericles; for he said it wats 
 evident that he had been cheated by his workmen. He pointe<d 
 those defects out to us. Above the architrave, behind the 
 metopes and triglyphs, there are vacuities sufficiently spacious 
 for a person to walk in, which, in some instances, and perhap>s 
 in all, had been carelessly filled with loose materials; buit 
 at Paestum the same parts of the work are of solid stone, 
 particularly near the angles of those temples; which consist 
 of such prodigious masses, that it is inconceivable how they 
 were raised and adjusted. In other parts of the Parthenon 
 there are also superfluities; which are unknown in the build- 
 ings of Paestum, where nothing superfluous can be discerned. 
 These remarks, as they were made by an intelligent artist, 
 who, with leisure and abilities for the inquiry, has paid 
 more attention to the subject than any one else, we have 
 been careful to preserve. For our own parts, in viewing 
 the Parthenon, we were so much affected by its solemn 
 appearance, and so much dazzled by its general splendor and 
 magnificence, that we should never have ventured to this 
 critical examination of the parts composing it ; nor could 
 we be persuaded entirely to acquiesce in the opinion thus 
 founded upon a comparison of it with the Posidoman and 
 JEginetan buildings. Often as it has been described, the 
 
 spectator 
 
 fjmmw.jwwyrr******--.. 
 

ATHENS. 
 
 489 
 
 spectator who for the first time approaches it finds that chap. xir. 
 nothing he has read can give any idea of the effect produced 
 in beholding it. Yet was there once found in England 
 a writer of eminence in his profession as an architect 1 , 
 who recommended the study of Roman antiquities in Italy 
 and in France, in preference to the remains of Grecian archi- 
 tecture in Athens; and who, deciding upon the works of 
 Phidias, Callicratcs, and Ictinus, without ever having had 
 an opportunity to examine them but in books and prints, 
 ventured to maintain that the Parthenon was not so consi- 
 derable an edifice as the Church of St. Martin in London; 
 thereby affording a remarkable proof of the impossibility 
 of obtaining from any written description, or even from 
 engraved representation, any adequate idea of the buildings 
 of Antient Greece ; compared with whose stupendous works, 
 the puny efforts of modern art are but as the labours of 
 children. 
 
 By means of the scaffolds raised against the Parthenon 
 for the Formatori and for other artists who were engaged 
 in moulding and making drawings from the sculpture upon 
 the frieze, we were enabled to ascend to all the higher 
 parts of the building, and to examine with the minutest 
 attention all the ornaments of this glorious edifice. The 
 sculpture on the metopes, representing the Combats of the 
 Centaurs and Lapithoe, is in such bold relief, that the 
 
 figures 
 
 (l) See a Treatise on the Decorative Part of Civil Architecture, by Sir William 
 Chambers, pp. 19, 21, &c. Thud edition. Lond. 1/9 1. — Also Reveley's Reply, in his 
 Pref. to the Third Volume of Stuart's Antiq. of Athens, p. 10. Lond. \7Q4. 
 
 VOL. III. 3 R 
 
.-..-■ 
 
 490 
 
 CHAP. XII. 
 
 Cause of the 
 Injuries sus- 
 tained in the 
 Sculpture of 
 the Part /tenon. 
 
 ATHENS. 
 
 figures are all of them statues : upon coming close to the 
 work, and examining the state of the marble, it was evident 
 that a very principal cause of the injuries it had sustained 
 was owing, not, as it has been asserted', to ''the zeal of 
 the early Christians*, the barbarism of the Turks, or to the 
 explosions which took place when the temple was used as 
 a powder magazine," but to the decomposition of the 
 stone itself, in consequence of the action of the atmosphere 
 during so many ages. The mischief has originated in the 
 sort of marble which was used for the building ; this, not 
 being entirely homogeneous, is characterized by a tendency 
 to exfoliate when long exposed to air and moisture. Any 
 person may be convinced of this, who will examine the 
 specimens of sculpture which have been since removed to 
 this country from the Parthenon; although being expressly 
 selected as the most perfect examples of the work, they do not 
 exhibit this decomposition so visibly as the remaining parts 
 of the building. But throughout the metopes, and in all the 
 
 exquisite 
 
 (1) Memorandum on the Subject of the Earl of Elgin's Pursuits in Greece, p. 11. 
 Lond. 1811. 
 
 (2) In the little Tract which the author published in 1803, containing the "Testi- 
 monies of different Authors respecting the Statue of Ceres," p. 4. and also in his Account 
 of the " Cambridge Marbles " published in 1 800, p. 15. he attributed to " the zeal of the 
 early Christians" a part of the injury done to the Temple atEleusis. He has since been 
 much amused by finding the same expression adopted by the writer of the Earl of 
 Elgin's "Memorandum" above cited, where the " early Christians" are made also respon- 
 sible for the injury done to the metopes of the Parthenon (See Memorandum, p. ll). 
 Now, abating the long arms, or the long ladders, which the said Christians must have 
 called into action to reach the entablature of this building, it does not appear highly 
 probable that the very people who consecrated the Parthenon, as Wheler says, " to serve 
 God in" would take so much pains to disfigure and to destroy their place of worship. 
 
ATHENS. 491 
 
 exquisite sculpture of the frieze which surrounded the outside chap, xu 
 
 of the cell of the temple, this may be observed : a person 
 
 putting his hand behind the figures, or upon the plinth, where 
 
 the parts have been less exposed to the atmosphere, may 
 
 perceive the polished surface, as it was left when the work 
 
 was finished, still preserving a high degree of smoothness ; 
 
 but the exterior parts of the stone have been altered by 
 
 weathering; and where veins of schistus in the marble have 
 
 been affected by decomposition, considerable parts have 
 
 fallen off. Yet to operate an effect of this nature it 
 
 required the lapse of twenty-three centuries ; and we may 
 
 fairly conclude that what remained had undergone sufficient 
 
 trial to have continued unaltered for a aeries of ages : 
 
 at all events it would have been safe from the injuries 
 
 to which the finest parts of the sculpture have been 
 
 since so lamentably exposed, when they were torn from 
 
 the temple, either to be swallowed by the waves of Cythera, 
 
 or to moulder under the influence of a climate peculiarly 
 
 qualified to assist their progress towards destruction 3 . 
 
 It is with reluctance that the author omits a description of 
 the whole of the sculpture upon the frieze beneath the ceiling 
 of the Peripterus\ To an artist, the boldness and masterly splendid 
 
 Represeuta- 
 
 execution of the metopes may be more interesting; but a tionofthe 
 
 Panathenaa. 
 
 sight of the splendid solemnity of the whole Panathenaic 
 Festival, represented by the best artists of Antient Greece, 
 
 in 
 
 (3) " The Ambassador has carried off every rich morsel of sculpture that was to 
 be found in the Parthenon: so that he, in future, who wishes to see Athens, must make 
 a journey to Scotland." Colonel Squire's MS. Correspondence. 
 
 (4) For a full account of it, see Stuart's Athens, vol. II. p. 12. Lond. 17&7- 
 

 Description 
 of the Work. 
 
 ATHENS. 
 
 in one continued picture above three feet in height, and 
 originally six hundred feet in length, of which a very 
 considerable portion now remains, is alone worth a journey 
 to .Athens; nor will any scholar deem the undertaking to 
 be unprofitable who should visit Greece for this alone. 
 The whole population of the antient city, animated by the 
 bustle and business of the Panathencea, seems to be exhi- 
 bited by this admirable work ; persons of either sex and 
 of every age, priests, charioteers, horsemen, cattle, victors, 
 youths, maidens, victims, gods, and heroes, all enter 
 into the procession ; every countenance expresses the 
 earnestness and greatness of the occasion ; and every 
 magnificence of costume, and varied disposition of the 
 subject, add to the effect of the representation. It is 
 somewhere said of Phidias, that, as a sculptor, he particularly 
 excelled in his statues of horses : perhaps some notion may 
 be conceived of the magic of his art, when it is related, 
 that of a hundred horses introduced by him into the 
 Panathenaic pomp, there are not two, either in the same 
 attitude, or which are not characterized by a marked 
 difference of expression. Some circumstances were made 
 known to us by our being able to examine the marble 
 closely, which we did not know before; although they 
 had been alluded to by Stuart 1 : the bridles of the horses 
 were originally of gilded bronze ; this we perceived by 
 the holes left in the stone for affixing the metal, and 
 also by little bits of the bronze itself, which the Formatori 
 
 had 
 
 (1) Antkj. of Athens, vol. II. p. 14. Lond. 1/87. 
 
ATHENS. 
 
 493 
 
 had found in the work. We should hardly have believed 
 that such an article of dress as the leathern boot, witth its 
 top turned over the calf of the leg, was worn by the amtieiit 
 Athenian, as well as by English cavaliers, if we had not seen 
 the Cothurnus so represented upon the figures of some of 
 the young horsemen in this procession ; and as coxcomically 
 adapted to the shape of the leg, and set off with as 
 great nicety, as for a Newmarket jockey. Another singular 
 piece of foppery, worn also by the Athenian beaux, 
 consisted of a light gipsey hat, perhaps made of straw, tied 
 with ribbands under the chin. We noticed the figure of a 
 young horseman with one of these hats, who seemed from 
 his appearance in the procession to be a person of distinction, 
 curbing a galloping steed ; but the wind had blown the hat 
 from his head, and, being held by the ribbands about the neck, 
 it hung behind the rider, as if floating in the air : the sculptor 
 having evidently availed himself of this representation to 
 heighten the appearance of action in the groupe, and 
 nothing could be more spirited. That this kind of hat was 
 considered as a mark of distinction, seems to be probable, 
 from the circumstance of its being still worn by the Patriarchs 
 of the Greek church 2 : it appears upon the head of the Patri- 
 arch of Constantinople, as he is represented by a wood-cut 
 in the work of Martin Crusius 2 ; but perhaps in the latter 
 instance it should rather be considered as the petasus 4 , than 
 
 the 
 
 CHAP. XII. 
 
 Of the 
 
 Cothurnus; 
 
 and Petasus, 
 or P ileus. 
 
 (2) See Part I. of these Travels, p. 150. Second Edit. Broxlourn, 1811. 
 
 (3) Turco-Grsecia, p. 106. Basil. 1583. 
 
 (4) Vid. Lipsius de Amphitheat. c. IQ. 
 
BMHBgB — 1Mb 
 
 494 
 
 CHAP. XU. 
 
 ATHENS. 
 
 the pileus. Also, by attending to its appearance upon Grecian 
 vases of terra cotta, we may perceive that it was worn by no 
 common individuals. A beautiful figure of Actceon, with 
 this kind of hat, is preserved upon one of the Greek Marbles 
 in the University Library at Cambridge ' : and another repre- 
 sentation of the same person, similarly attired, appears upon 
 the Neapolitan Vase", where there is also an effigy of Castor 
 with the pileus upon his head ; for Actceon, in both in- 
 stances, is figured with his head uncovered, the hat hanging, 
 by its ribbands, in graceful negligence behind his shoulders; 
 and after this manner it is more frequently represented. 
 Among the Romans, who rarely used any covering for 
 the head, the pileus, when worn, was the distinguishing 
 badge of freed-men ; and the use of it, as a privilege, was 
 granted to persons who had obtained their liberty. In the 
 Heroic age no kind of hats were worn, if we may judge from 
 the Poems of Homer, where there is no allusion to any 
 such article of apparel. Indeed, Eustathius affirms that the 
 Romans derived their custom of going bareheaded from the 
 Greeks': hence it may almost be proved, that in this bas- 
 relief, (as nothing was ever introduced by antient artists 
 into their designs without some symbolic allusion,) the hat 
 
 was 
 
 (l) This marble represents the body of an Amphora, about three feet in length, 
 from the shore of the Propontis. It was presented to the University by Mr. Spencer 
 Smith, late Minister Plenipotentiary at the Ottoman Porte, and brother of Sir Sidney 
 Smith. The sculpture is in low relief, but it is very antient. 
 
 (2) Now in the possession of Mr. Edwards of Harrow, late bookseller in Pall Mall, 
 London. 
 
 (3) Vid. Eustath. in Homer. Odyss, lib. i. 
 
 ■■*■ 
 
ATHENS. 
 
 495 
 
 Statues. 
 
 was intended as a distinguishing token ; and its appearance chap. xii. 
 is the more interesting, because it has been the opinion of 
 antiquaries that this frieze contained the portraits of the 
 leading characters at Athens, during the Peloponnesian war; 
 particularly of Pericles, Phidias, Socrates, and Alcibiades 4 . 
 
 We saw with the same advantage all the remaining 
 sculpture of this stately edifice ; visiting it often afterwards 
 to examine the different parts more leisurely. Among the Practice of 
 
 gilding and 
 
 remains of the sculpture in the western pediment, which is painting the 
 in a very ruined state, the artists had observed, not only 
 the traces of paint with which the statues had antiently 
 been covered, but also of gilding. It was usual to gild 
 the hair of the statues which represented Deities, and some- 
 times other parts of the bodies. This practice remained to a 
 very late period of the art, as it has been already shewn in a 
 former part of this work 5 . During an excavation which 
 Lusieri had carried on here, he had discovered the antient 
 pavement, in its entire state; consisting of the same white 
 marble as the temple. We found an Inscription, which 
 proves how antient the custom was of pronouncing the 
 Greek B like the Roman V, by the manner of writing a 
 name which must have been their Victorinus: " Phaneas, 
 
 HlEROPHANT, SON OF VlCTORLNUS." 
 
 4>ANeiACTHCBIKT0UPGI 
 N O Yl 6P04> ANTH C 
 
 Among 
 
 (4) See Memorandum on the subject of the Earl of Elgin's Pursuits in Greece, 
 p. 12. Lond. 181J. 
 
 (5) See Chap. IV. p. 148. of this Section. 
 
►>-»<» -*<*-"("?" 
 
 
 
 496 
 
 CHAP. XII. 
 
 Marbles usd& 
 in the 
 Acropolis. 
 
 Singular 
 Construction 
 of the 
 Ereethium. 
 
 ATHENS. 
 
 Among the ruins of this and of other buildings in the Acro- 
 polis, we noticed the fragments of almost every kind of 
 marble, and of the most beautiful varieties of breccia ; but 
 particularly of the verd- antique, entire columns of which had 
 once adorned the Erccthcum : under a heap of loose stones 
 and rubbish in the centre of it, we discovered the broken 
 shaft of a verd-antique pillar of uncommon beauty : this we 
 purchased of the Disdar ; and having with great difficulty 
 removed it from the Acropolis, we sent it to England 1 . A 
 bluish-grey limestone was also used in some of the works ; 
 particularly in the exquisite ornaments of the Erectile urn, 
 where the frieze of the temple and of its porticoes are not of 
 marble, like the rest of the building, but of this sort of slate- 
 like limestone : the tympanum of the pediment is likewise of 
 the same stone; a singular circumstance truly, and requiring 
 some explanation*. It resembles the limestone employed in 
 the walls of the Cella of the Temple of Ceres at Eleusis, and 
 in buildings before the use of marble was known for pur- 
 poses of architecture ; such, for example, as the sort of stone 
 employed in the Temple of Apollo at Phigalia 5 , and in other 
 edifices of equal antiquity : it effervesces briskly in acids, and 
 
 hes 
 
 (1) It is now in the Vestibule of the University Library at Cambridge. S;e 
 " Greek Marbles," No. XVII. p. 39. Carnl. I8O9. 
 
 (2) For this fact the aufhor is indebted to Mr. Wilkins, author of the Antiquities :>f 
 Magna Gnecia, &c. 
 
 (3) Specimens of this slate-like limestone were brought to the author for tie 
 Mineralogical Lecture at Cambridge, from the Temple of the Phigalian Apollo in tie 
 Morea, by Mr. Walpole. It is also found upon Parnassus, and in other parts of Greece. 
 Some of the limestone of Parnassus breaks with a conchoi'dal fracture, and is had 
 enough to cut glass. 
 
 msifi 
 
 
ATHENS. 
 
 497 
 
 has all the properties of common compact limestone ; except CHAP - xn - 
 that it is hard enough to cut glass, and of course is sus- 
 ceptible of a fine polish; exhibiting a flat conchoi'dal fracture, 
 which is somewhat splintery. We could not discover a single 
 fragment of porphyry ; which is remarkable, as this substance 
 was almost always used by the Antients in works of great 
 magnificence. Among the loose fragments dispersed in the 
 Acropolis, we found a small piece of marble with an 
 inscription, but in so imperfect a state, that it is only worth 
 notice as a memorial of the place where it was found, and 
 in its allusion to the Prytanhim, which is the only legible 
 part of it 4 . That the Prytaneum, where the written laws ofthe 
 
 . Prytantum. 
 
 of Solon were kept , was not situated near to the spot, but 
 in the lower city, may be easily proved. Yet some have 
 believed that it was in the Acropolis ; owing to that 
 remarkable passage in Pausanias, which sets at rest the 
 mistaken opinion of Ptolemy's importation of the worship 
 of Serapis into Egypt ; Memphis having been the original 
 source of this superstition, both for the Alexandrians and 
 the Athenians . After speaking of the Prytandum, Pausanias 
 says 7 , " Hence, to those going towards the lower parts of 
 
 the 
 
 (4) Now in the Vestibule at Cambridge. See " Greek Marbles," No. XXX. p. 52. 
 Camb. I8O9. 
 
 (5) IlXi/a-tW tf Tipvravuov tarty, iv u> vofiot te ot 2o'\6>voc elfft yeyoafifilvoi. 
 Pausaniae., lib. i. c. IS. p. 41. Lips. l6g6. 
 
 (6) See Chap. VII. of this Section, p. 281. Note (6) of this Volume. 
 
 (7) ''Eivrevdev lovtnv ec rot kUtm ri}<j ttoXigh;, ^.apciiri^6<; effTtv Itpov, tv 'Adtjvalot 
 ■napd UroXe/xaiov Qtov iarjydyoyro. Aiyvnrioic 6t itpd ^apdyrt^og, iwityavLaTUTOv 
 fih Eoriv 'AXefavSpevaiv, dpyaiorarov ce iv Mf/i^a. Pausaniae, lib. i. c. 18. p. 42. 
 Lips. i6g6. 
 
 VOL. III. 
 
 3 S 
 
498 
 
 ATHENS. 
 
 chap. xn. fag c lfy } the Temple of Serapis presents itself; whose worship 
 the Athenians received from Ptolemy:" adding, " Among the 
 Egyptian fanes of this Deity, the most renowned indeed is 
 that of Alexandria, but the most antient that of Memphis." 
 But, in answer to this, it may be observed, that the same 
 author also ascends from the Prytaneum along the street 
 of the Tripods, towards the Propylcea\ Moreover, it is 
 recorded, that the tablets of the laws which had been 
 preserved in the Citadel were afterwards removed to the 
 Prytaneum*; and they were termed rug xdrufav vo^ovg, because 
 they were kept in the loiver city. 
 
 Ertctteum. With regard to the Erectheum, which is situated at the 
 
 distance of about a hundred and fifty feet to the north of the 
 Parthenon, it has generally been described as consisting of 
 three contiguous temples ; that of Erect heus, of Minerva 
 Polias, and of Pandrosus. Stuart considered the eastern part 
 of the building alone as being the Erectheum; the part 
 to the westward as that of Minerva; and the adjoining 
 edifice on the south side, distinguished by the Caryatides 
 supporting the entablature and roof, as the chapel which 
 was dedicated to the Nymph Pandrosus 3 . This opinion 
 has been adopted by other writers 4 : but it seems more 
 
 consistent 
 
 (1) v E(m It ohos dwd tov Wpvraveiov KaXov/itvtj TpfaroSes. Pausan. lib. i. c. 20. 
 p. 46. Lips. \6g&. 
 
 (2) Jul. Pollux, lib.viii. c. 10. Amst. 1706. 
 
 (3) Antiq. of Athens, vol.11, chap. 2. p. 16. Lower. 1787 . 
 
 (4) ",Near the Parthenon are three temples." (Memorandum of the Earl of 
 Elgin's Pursuits in Greece, p. 23. Lond. 1811.) See also Chandler 's Trav. in Grme, 
 .chap. 11. p. 52. Oxf. 1786. &c. &c. 
 
 
TEM PUE of I'l RECTI E US .-.i ATI I EHS; 
 
 Published Slay ^.. ■•>;.,. by T.CndcU «• Wfliwies.St, uui . 
 
^A";- , ^'S?-ij? I 
 
 Tim ^M 
 
 
 
 
 Mmm*» 
 
 
ATHENS. 
 
 499 
 
 consistent with the description and allusions to this build- ™i^"_ 
 ing in the works of antient authors, to suppose that the 
 whole structure was called Erectheum, consisting only of 
 two contiguous temples ; that of Minerva Potias, with its J£M« of 
 portico towards the east ; and that of Pandrosus towards £*£*""■ 
 the west, with its two porticoes standing by the north 
 and south angles, the entrance to the Pandroseum being 
 on the northern side 5 . Pausanias 6 calls the whole build- 
 ing EPEX0EION, and he decidedly describes it, not as of 
 a triple, but as of a duple form 7 ; and in the succeeding 
 chapter he mentions the two parts of which it consisted, 
 naming them the Temples of Pandrosus and Minerva 6 . The 
 sepulchral origin of the Parthenon, as of all the Athenian 
 temples, has been already proved ; and the same historian 
 who has preserved a record of the situation of the sepulchre 
 of Cecrops also informs us that the tomb of Ericthonius 
 existed in the Temple, of Minerva Polias 9 . The Turks 
 had made a powder-magazine of one of the vestibules 
 
 of 
 
 (5) See a Plan of these buildings by Mr. W. Wilkins, author of the Antiquities of 
 Magna Grnecia, &c. as engraved for Mr. Walpole's Selections from the MS. Journals 
 of Travellers in the Levant. 
 
 (6) "Eort cc kcu ok>ifia 'E ( o£^0«ov KaXovfxevov. Pausan. lib. i. c. 26. p. 62. 
 Lips. i6g6. 
 
 (7) Kdl ci7r\ovv yap iffri to okr/pa. Ibid. 
 
 (8) Tw vaa £e rrjg 'AOrjvdg Wavcpovov vuoc nvvs^rjc tart. Ibid. c. 27. p. 64. 
 Lips. 1696. 
 
 (9) 'ABrfvtj'Ji he iv dKpnvd\H, HcKporoi, wc fritTiv ' ' Avrioyog h tu> Ivvdrf rav 
 iaropiav ri cal 'F.pucOoviot; ; 01/Vt iv tu> vef rt;<; YtoXtdSoc KEKtjdlvrai. " AtheniS 
 autem in ipsa pariter Acropoli, Cecropis, ut Antiochus Historiarum nono scriptum reli- 
 quit. Quid porro Ericthonius? nonne in Poliadis templo sepultus est?" QkmcnUs 
 Alezandrini Cohortalio ad Gentes, lorn. I. p.3g. Oxon. 1715. 
 
I **+^>*^?*t*{*i.ri*P>.- : *^-r)*u~'*' 
 
 
 ;-*.-«.>•« 
 
 ATHENS. 
 
 of this building; so that it was necessary to creep through 
 a hole in the wall in order to see the finest specimen of Ionic 
 architecture now existing : it was an inner door of one of the 
 temples ; and it has been judiciously remarked 1 of the sculp- 
 ture everywhere displayed in this edifice, that " it is difficult 
 to conceive how marble has been wrought to such a depth 
 and brought to so sharp an edge, the different ornaments 
 having all the delicacy of works in metal." Lusieri, for 
 whom and for the other artists this passage had been opened, 
 said, that he considered the workmanship of the frieze and 
 cornice, and of the Ionic capitals, as the most admirable 
 specimens of the art of sculpture in the world: he came 
 daily to examine it, with additional gratification and wonder. 
 He directed our attention to the extraordinary state of 
 preservation in which the Caryatides of the Pandroseum 
 still remained ; passing the hand over the surface of the 
 marble upon the necks of these statues, it seemed to retain 
 its original polish in the highest perfection. Within this 
 of the oiive; building, so late as the second century, was preserved the 
 olive-tree mentioned by Apollodorus 8 , which was said to be 
 as old as the foundation of the citadel. Stuart supposed it 
 to have stood in the portico of the Temple of Pandrosus 
 (called by him the Pandroseum), from the circumstance of 
 the air necessary for its support, which could here be 
 admitted between the Caryatides; but instances of trees 
 that have been preserved unto a very great age, within the 
 
 interior 
 
 (1) Memorandum, &c. p. 24. Lond. 1811. 
 
 (2) ViQ. Pausan. lib. i. c. 27. p. (54. Lips. 1696. 
 
 MftMwmiiitii* 
 
ATHENS. 
 
 501 
 
 interior of an edifice inclosed by walls, may be adduced. The cha p , xii. 
 building was of course erected subsequently to the growth 
 of the tree, and was in some degree adapted to its form. 
 A very curious relique of this kind may be seen at Cawdor 
 Castle, near Inverness in Scotland; in which building a 
 hawthorn-tree of great antiquity is very remarkably preserved. 
 Tradition relates, that the original proprietor of the edifice 
 was directed by a dream to build a castle exactly upon the 
 spot where the tree was found ; and this was done in 
 such a manner as to leave no doubt but that the tree 
 existed long before the structure was erected. The trunk 
 of this tree, with the knotty protuberances left by its 
 branches, is still shewn 3 in a vaulted apartment at the 
 bottom of the principal tower: its roots branch out 
 beneath the floor, and its top penetrates the vaulted arch of 
 stone above, in such a manner that any person seeing it is 
 convinced the masonry was adjusted to the shape and size of 
 the plant, a space being left for its admission through the top 
 of the vault. The hawthorn- tree of Cawdor Castle, and the 
 traditionary superstition to which it has owed its preservation 
 during a lapse of centuries, may serve as a parallel to the 
 history of the Athenian Olive, by exhibiting an example nearly 
 similar ; the one being considered as the Palladium of an 
 antient Highland Clan 4 , and the other regarded as the most 
 
 sacred 
 
 (3) The author saw it in 1797. The name of the building, as it is now pro- 
 nounced, is not Cawdor, but Calder Castle. 
 
 (4) It had been a custom, from time immemorial, for guests in the castle to assemble 
 around this tree, and drink " Success to the hawthorn," or, in other words, " Prosperity 
 to the house of Cawdor." The first toast after dinner in a Welch mansion is, generally, 
 " The chief beam of the house." 
 

 "^^M w*-.>>< "»3#^ 
 
 502 
 
 CHAP. XII. 
 
 and 0/ 
 
 ATHENS. 
 
 sacred relique of the Cecropian Citadel. Within the Era> 
 theum was the Well of salt water, also shewn as a mark of 
 the contest for Attica between Neptune and Minerva'. 
 This well is mentioned by Wheler 2 , who could not obtain 
 permission to see it : he was assured that it was " almost 
 dry" when he visited the Acropolis: but before Wheler 
 arrived in Athens it had been seen and very curiously 
 described by Guilletiere, whose account of the notions enter- 
 tained concerning it by the inhabitants exactly corresponds 
 with all that Pausanias had related of its antient history'. 
 The existence of the well, in such a remarkable situation, 
 identifies the ILrecihewn better than any proof derived from 
 the present appearance of the building. 
 
 We dined with Signor Lusieri and the artists who were 
 his fellow-labourers in the Acropolis, upon a boiled kid 
 and some rice. Honey from Mount Hymettus was served, 
 of such extraordinary toughness and consistency, although 
 quite transparent, that the dish containing it might be 
 turned with its bottom upwards without spilling a drop ; 
 and the surface of it might also be indented with the edge 
 of a knife, yielding to the impression without separation, 
 like a mass of dough. As an article of food, it is reckoned 
 very heating; and persons who eat much of it are liable to 
 
 fever. 
 
 (1) Pausan, lib. i. c. 26. Lips. 1696. 
 
 (2) Journey into Greece, p. 364. Lond. 1682. 
 
 (3) " Au sortir du temple nous vlmes, a cinquante pas de la, ce puys eclebre, dont 
 on a toujours parle comme d'unedesmerveilles de la Nature ; et adjourd'hny les Athe- 
 niens le content pour une des plus curieuses raretez de leur pays. Son eau est salee, et a 
 la couleur de celle de la mer : routes les fois que le vent du ,midy souffle, elle est agitee, et 
 fait un grand bruit dans le fond du puys." Voyage d' Athene s, p. 298. a Paris, l6/5. 
 
ATHENS. 
 
 503 
 
 fever. We tasted the wine of Athens, which is unpleasant . CHA *; ™\ 
 to those who are not accustomed to it, from the quantity of 
 resin and lime infused as substitutes for brandy. After dinner 
 we examined the remains of the Propyl^.a ; concerning Propyls 
 which we have little to add to the remarks already published. 
 Over the entrance may be seen one of those enormous slabs 
 of marble, called marble beams by Wheler 4 ; and to which 
 Pausanias particularly alluded, when, in describing the 
 Propylcea, he said, that, even in his time, nothing surpassing 
 the beauty of the workmanship, or the magnitude of the 
 stones used in the building, had ever been seen'. We have 
 since compared the dimensions of this slab with those of 
 an architrave of much greater size, namely, that which 
 covers the entrance to the great sepulchre at Mycerut ; for 
 it is remarkable that Pausanias, who would have mentioned 
 the fact if he had seen the latter, gives a very detailed 
 account of the ruins of that city, and yet takes no notice of 
 the most prodigious mass perhaps ever raised for any purpose 
 of architecture, and which is nearly four times as large 6 as 
 
 any 
 
 (4) Journey into Greece, Book V. p. 359. Lnnd. ]6'82. 
 
 (5) Tft t£ 7rpo7rv\aia \1B0v \tvnov ri}v opotyrjv t\ci, Kal ko'<t/<« KOt fieyidti ruy 
 Xidwi' /nty^pt ye teal inov 7rpoe7^£. Pausanine Attica, c. 2J. p. 51. Lips. l6Q6. 
 
 (6) The slab at Mycenae is of granite, twenty-seven feet long, seventeen feet wide, 
 and above four feet and a half in thickness. That which remains at the Prupylcsa is of 
 white marble, cut with the utmost precision and evenness : its length is seventeen feet 
 nine inches. The former has quite an Egyptian character : the latter bespeaks the 
 finer art of a much later period in history. But the slab of marble at the Propyl&a 
 is not the largest even in Athens : an architrave belonging to the Temple ot Jupiter 
 Olvmpius exceeds it in cubical dimensions : the length of this architrave equals twenty-two 
 feet six inches 5 its width three feet; and its height six feet six inches. See Stuart's 
 Athens. Pref. to vol. III. p. 9. Lo)id. 1/94. 
 

 504 
 
 ATHENS. 
 
 CHAP. XII. 
 
 Walls of the 
 Acropolis. 
 
 any of the stones that so much excited his admiration in 
 viewing the Propylaea. This magnificent building, fronting 
 the only entrance to the Citadel, has also experienced some 
 of the effects of the same ill-judged rapacity which was 
 levelled against the Parthenon. If the influence of a better 
 spirit do not prevent a repetition of similar " Pursuits in 
 Greece," Athens will sustain more damage in being visited 
 by travellers, calling themselves persons of taste, than when 
 it was forgotten by the world, and entirely abandoned to 
 its barbarian possessors : in a few years, the traveller even 
 upon the spot must be content to glean his intelligence 
 from the representation afforded by books of Travels, who 
 is desirous to know what remained of the Fine Arts so 
 lately as the time in which the city was visited by Wheler, 
 by Chandler, or by Stuart. We afterwards examined the 
 remains of the original walls of the Acropolis ; and observed 
 some appearances in the work which had not at that time, 
 as far as we were informed, been noticed by preceding 
 travellers. They exhibit three distinct periods of construc- 
 tion ; that is to say, the masonry of modern times in the 
 repairs ; a style of building which can only be referred 
 to the age qfCimon, or of Pericles ; and the antient Pelasgic 
 work, as mentioned byLucian 1 . This was pointed out to us 
 by Lusieri ; but the circumstance which had escaped his 
 notice, and which we afterwards ascertained, was, that a 
 row of triglyphs, and intervening metopes, had been con- 
 tinued all round the upper part of the walls, immediately 
 
 beneath 
 
 (1) Bis Accusatus, torn. VII. p. 60. Bipont. 1790. 
 
 iiMnttiM^.*^. ■ I _ 
 
 %^-<m 
 
ATHENS. 505 
 
 beneath the coping. Other travellers have since observed chap. xn. 
 and mentioned this fact 9 : hence it is evident, from the cir- 
 cumference of the Acropolis being thus characterized by the 
 symbols of sacred architecture, that the whole peribolus was 
 considered as one vast and solemn sanctuary. We have an 
 instance of the same kind of sanctuary in modern times, and 
 in our own age. The Kremlin at Moscow, the Acropolis of 
 a city whose inhabitants have preserved, with their religion, 
 many a remnant of Grecian manners, is in like manner 
 held sacred by the people ; and no person is permitted to 
 pass the " Holy Gate" leading to the interior, but with 
 his head uncovered*. 
 
 We then descended, to visit the Odeum of Regilla, (the odeumot 
 
 Regilla. 
 
 building we had passed in the morning,) at the foot of the 
 rock of the Acropolis, and upon its south-western side 4 . 
 The remains of this edifice are those which Wheler and all 
 former travellers, excepting Chandler, even to the time of 
 Stuart, have described as the Theatre of Bacchus. Chandler 
 considered it as the Odeum of Pericles, rebuilt by Herodes 
 Atticus. But Pausanias, speaking of the Oddum erected by 
 Herodes in memory of his wife, mentions it as an original 
 structure. It was therefore distinct both from the edifice 
 erected by Pericles and from the Theatre of Bacchus ; so 
 that perhaps no doubt will hereafter be entertained upon 
 
 the 
 
 (2) Memorandum, &c. p. 28. Lond. 1S11. 
 
 (3) See Part I. of these Travels, Chap. VII. p. 1 13. Second Edit. Broxh. 1811. 
 
 (4) See the Plan of Athens, engraved as a Vignette to this Chapter. 
 
 VOL. III. 3 T 
 

 
 ss«r*«< 
 
 506 
 
 CHAP. XII. 
 
 ATHENS. 
 
 the subject, as far as this building is concerned 1 . All the 
 remaining parts of this most costly theatre are,Jirst, three rows 
 of circular arches, one row above another, facing the south- 
 west ; and these now constitute an outwork of the fortress,, 
 but originally they belonged to the exterior face of the Scenes 
 secondly, the semicircular sweep or cavity within, for the 
 seats of the spectators, at present almost choked with soil 2 - 
 Nearly all that we know of the building is derived frorra 
 an accidental allusion made to it by Pausanias, in his 
 description of Achaia; for it was not erected, as he himself 
 declares, when he had finished his account of Attica 5 . It 
 
 was 
 
 (1) See the Vignette to this Chapter. The Odeum of Pericles was on the south- 
 east side, and, according to Vitruvius, upon the left of those who came out of the 
 Theatre of Bacchus : " Exeuntibus a theatro sinistra parte, Odeum, quod Athenis 
 Pericles columnis lapideis disposuit." (Vitruv. lib. v. c. 9.) It is this circumstance 
 alone which has caused the Odeum of Herodes to be confounded with that Theatre ; 
 but the monument alluded to by Vitruvius was at the end of the Street of the Tripods, 
 and between that street and the Theatre of Bacchus. There were three different mo- 
 numents which had received the name of Odeum : one at the south-east angle of the 
 Citadel, which was the Odeum of Pericles ; another at the south-west angle, which was 
 the Odeum of Herodes Atticus. The Odeum mentioned by Pausanias is again considered 
 as a third : the Abbe Barthelemy believed the Pnyx to have been called Odeum by 
 Pausanias. The subject is indeed somewhat embarrassed: and the reader who wishes to 
 see it more fully illustrated, may consult the Notes to the 12th Chapter of the "Voyage 
 du Jeune Anacharsis," torn. II. p. 542. sur le Plan d Athenes (a Paris, 1/90); and the 
 authorities cited by its author. 
 
 (2) There is a fine view of the interior published in the second volume of Stuart's 
 Athens, eh. iii. PI. 1. ; but the annexed representation, from a drawing by Preaux, will 
 perhaps be found more faithful as to its external appearance. It also affords one of the 
 most interesting views of the Acropolis 5 shewing the situation of the Propylcea, the 
 Parthenon, and, to the right of the Theatre of Herodes, the site of the long Porticoes 
 surmounted by the two Choragic Pillars near to the Theatre of Bacchus, the columns 
 of Hadrian's Temple of Olympian Jove, and a distant view of the ridge of Hymettus. 
 
 (3) Pausaniae Achaica, c. 20. p. 574. Lips. l(k)6. 
 
NMPMMMMMMPHMH 
 
ATHENS. 
 
 was raised by Herodes in memory of his wife, and consi- 
 dered as far surpassing in magnitude and in the costliness 
 of its materials every other edifice of the kind in all Greece 4 . 
 The roof of it was of cedar. The cavity for the seats was 
 scooped in the solid rock of the Citadel; a practice so 
 antient, that from this circumstance alone a person might 
 be induced to believe, with Chandler, some more antient 
 theatre existed upon the spot before Herodes added any 
 thing to the work. The first thing that strikes a modern 
 traveller, in viewing the Grecian theatres, is the shallowness 
 of the Proscenion, or place for the stage. It is hardly pos- 
 sible to conceive how, either by the aid of painting or by 
 scenic decoration, any tolerable appearance of distance or 
 depth of view could be imitated. The actors must have 
 appeared like our modern mountebanks upon a waggon, as 
 to any effect of scenic deception. But so little is known of 
 the plan of an antient theatre, particularly of the Proscenion, 
 and the manner in which the Dramas were represented, 
 that the most perfect remains which we have of such struc- 
 tures leave us still in the dark as to the parts necessary 
 to compose the entire building. There is no traveller who 
 has better compressed what antient and modern writers have 
 said upon the subject, or in a more perspicuous manner, 
 than Guilletiere; who piqued himself upon the value of his 
 observations 5 , although no one since has ever noticed them. 
 
 It 
 
 (4) Tovto yap /xeytdet re ml £c n)v naaav wreprJKe KaraaKevtjv. Pausaniae Achaica, 
 c. 20. p. 574. Lips. 16Q6. 
 
 (5) " Je vous avoue franchement que c'est icy que je pretens bien vous faire valoir 
 la peine de mes voyages, et le fruit de mes observations." Voyage d'Athenes, p. 306. 
 a Paris, 1675. 
 
 507 
 
 CHAP. XII. 
 

 
 
 508 
 
 ATHEN S. 
 
 chap , xit. It is observed by him 1 , that among all the subjects of which 
 antient authors have treated, that of the construction of 
 their theatres is the most obscure, the most mutilated, and 
 delivered with the most contradiction. Vitruvius, says he, 
 conducts his readers only half way : he gives neither 
 the dimensions, nor the situation, nor the number of 
 the principal parts ; believing them to be sufficiently well 
 known, and never once dreaming that they were likely to 
 perish. For example, he does not determine the quantity of the 
 Diazomata, or Prcecinctio?ies, which we call corridors, retreats, 
 or landing-places : and even in things which he does specify, 
 he lays down rules which we actually find were never at- 
 tended to; as when he tells of two distinct elevations observed 
 in the construction of their rows of benches, and neither the 
 one nor the other accords with any thing now remaining of 
 the antient theatres, 4mnng modern writers, the Jesuit 
 Gallutius Sabicnus, and the learned Scaliger, have neglected 
 the most essential parts: and the confused mass of citations 
 collected by Bulengerus intimidates any one who is desirous 
 to set them in a clear light : after being at the pains to 
 examine his authorities, and glean whatever intelligence may 
 be derived from Athenceus, Hesychius, Julius Pollux, Eusta- 
 thius, Suidas, and others, our knowledge is still very im- 
 perfect. The Greek theatres were in general open ; but the 
 Odeum of Regilla was magnificently covered, as has been 
 stated, w ith a roof of cedar. The Odeum of Pericles, or Music 
 
 theatre, 
 
 (1) Voy age d'Athenes, p. 306. a Paris, 1675. 
 
 (2) ... " a moitie chemin. " Ibid. 
 
ATHENS. 
 
 509 
 
 theatre, was also covered; for, according to Plutarch, it was ^hap.xii. 
 the high pointed and tent-like shape of its roof; which gave 
 occasion to the comic poet Cratmus to level some ingenious 
 raillery at Pericles, who had the care of it 3 . In their open 
 theatres, the Greeks, being exposed to the injuries of weather, 
 commonly made their appearance in large clokes ; they also 
 made use of the sciadion, answering to our unibrella,as a screen 
 from the sun. The plays were performed always by day- 
 light. When a storm arose, the theatre was deserted, and the 
 audience dispersed themselves in the outer galleries and ad- 
 joining porticoes 4 . During their most magnificent spectacles 
 odoriferous liquors were showered upon the heads of the 
 people ; and the custom of scattering similar offerings upon 
 the heads of the people was often practised at Venice during 
 the carnival. 
 
 By the word Theatre the Antients intended the whole Description of 
 
 au autient 
 
 body of the edifice where the people assembled to see their Greek 
 public representations. The parts designed for the spectators 
 were called the Conistra, or pit ; the rows of benches ; the 
 Diazomata, or corridors ; the little stairs; the Cercys; and the 
 Echea. The other principal parts of the theatre, belong- 
 ing to the actors, were called the Orchestra ; the Pro- 
 scenion ; and the Scene, that is to say, the front or face of 
 the decorations; for, properly, the word Scene has no other 
 
 signification. 
 
 Theatre. 
 
 (3) O <TytvoK£<j>a\oc Ztv<; b?e TrpouipytTai 
 X\tptK\it)(;, Ttgcilov irrl rov Kpaviov 
 '\Lyuy, iTrei^t] rovarpaKov TrapoiKsrai. 
 
 Vid. Plut. in Pericl. torn. I. p. 353. Lond. 1723. 
 
 (4) Vitru . lib. v. cap. 9. p. 92. 
 

 
 510 
 
 CHAP. XII. 
 
 ATHENS. 
 
 signification. The interior structure extended like the arc 
 of a circle, reaching to the two corners of the Proscenion : 
 above that portion of the circumference were raised four 
 and twenty rows of benches, surrounding the Conistra, or 
 pit, for the spectators. These benches, in their whole height, 
 were divided into three sets by the Diazomata or corridors, 
 consisting of eight rows in each division. The Diazomata ran 
 parallel to the rows of seats, and were of the same form ; 
 they were contrived as passages for the spectators from one 
 part of the theatre to another, without incommoding those 
 who were seated : for the same convenience, there were little 
 steps 1 that crossed the several rows, and reached from one 
 corridor to another, from the top to the bottom, so that 
 persons might ascend or descend without incommoding the 
 audience. Near to those staircases were passages leading to 
 the outer porticoes, by which the spectators entered to take 
 their places. The best places were in the middle tier, upon 
 the eight rows between the eighth and the seventeenth 
 bench. This part of the theatre was called Bouleuticon ; it 
 was set apart for the magistrates. The other tiers were 
 called Ephebicon, and were appropriated to the citizens after 
 they had attained their eighteenth year. Along each corridor, 
 at convenient distances, in the solid part of the structure, 
 small cellular cavities, called Echcea, containing brass vessels, 
 open towards the Scene. Above the upper corridor there was 
 a gallery or portico, called Ccrcys, for the women ; but those 
 
 who 
 
 (l) Each of those little steps was exactly half the height of one of the benches. They 
 formed diverging radii from the Conistra. Such staircases remain very entire in the 
 theatres of Asia Minor, as at Telmessus ; in Epidauria ; at Sicyon ; Chsronaea ; &rc. 
 
ATHEN S. 
 
 511 
 
 who had led disorderly lives had a place apart for their chap.xii. 
 reception. Strangers and allies who had the freedom of the 
 city were also placed in the Cercys. Individuals had also, 
 sometimes, a property in particular places; which descended 
 by succession to the eldest of the family. 
 
 Thus much for the parts appropriated to the spectators. 
 With regard to others belonging to the Drama, the Orchestra 
 (an elevation out of the Conistra or pit) began about fifty- 
 four feet from the face of the Proscenion or stage, and ended 
 at the Proscenion. Its height was about four feet ; its shape 
 an oblong parallelogram, detached from the seats of the 
 spectators : here were stationed the musicians, the choir, anid 
 the mimics. Among the Romans it was destined for a more 
 noble use ; the Emperor, the Senate, the Vestals, and other 
 persons of quality, having their seats upon it. The Proscenion 
 or stage was raised seven feet above the Orchestra, and eleven 
 above the Conistra; and upon it stood an altar dedicated 
 to Apollo. The part called the Scene was nothing else than 
 the columns, and architectural decorations, raised from the 
 foundations, and upon the wings of the Proscenion, merely 
 for ornament. When there were three rows of pillars 
 one above another, the highest row was called Episcenion. 
 Agatarchus was the first architect who decorated the Scene 
 according to the rules of perspective : he received his instruc- 
 tions from iEschylus 2 . The theatres of Greece and Asia Minor 
 
 were 
 
 (2) Besides the parts of a Greek theatre here enumerated, Guilletiere mentions line 
 Logeion, or Thymde, which the Romans called Pulpituvi; and the Hyposcenion ; both 
 which were parts of the Orchestra. Also the Parascenion, or space before and behind 
 the Scene ; and a species of machinery for introducing the Gods, which was called 
 Theologeion. 
 

 
 512 
 
 CHAP. XII. 
 
 ATHENS. 
 
 were not solely appropriated to plays and public shews : some- 
 times they were used for state assemblies ; and occasionally 
 as schools, in which the most eminent philosophers harangued 
 their scholars. St. Paul was desirous :o go into the theatre 
 at Ephesus, to address the people, during the uproar caused 
 by Demetrius the silversmith 1 ; but was entreated by his 
 disciples not to present himself there., through fear that he 
 would encounter the violence which Gaius and Aristarchus 
 had already experienced-. 
 
 From the Odium of Regilla we went to the Areopagus; 
 wishing to place our feet upon a spot where it is so decidedly 
 known that St. Paul had himself stood ; and to view with 
 our eyes the same scene which he beheld, when he declared 
 unto the Athenians 3 the nature of the Unknown God 
 whom they so ignorantly worshipped, and opposed the new 
 doctrine of " Christ crucified" to the spirit and the genius 
 of the Gentile faith. They had brought him to the Court of 
 the Areopagites, to explain the nature of the rash enterprise 
 in which he was engaged; and to account for the unex- 
 ampled temerity of an appeal which called upon them to 
 renounce their idols, to abolish their most holy rites, and to 
 forsake their Pantheon for One only God " who dwelleth 
 
 not 
 
 (1) Actsxix. 30, 31. 
 
 (2) This brief survey of the form of an antient Greek theatre, and of its various parts, 
 will be found useful to travellers during their examination of the remains of such struc- 
 tures. Those who wish to see the subject more fully discussed, may consult Guilletiere, 
 from whose researches, added to his personal observations, it has been, with very little 
 alteration, derived. The author, having already proved its accuracy, by comparing it with 
 the Notes he made among the ruins of the Grecian theatres, and rinding that it had been 
 unaccountably overlooked, conceived it might make a useful addition to his work. 
 
 (3) Acts xvii. 22. 
 
ATHENS. 
 
 513 
 
 not in temples made with hands," — the God of the Hebrews chap , xir. 
 too, a people hated and despised by all. It does not seem 
 possible for the mind to conceive a situation of greater peril, 
 or one of severer trial to the sincerity of a preacher, 
 than that in which he was then placed: and the truth of 
 this, perhaps, will never be better felt, than by a spectator 
 who, from this eminence, actually beholds the stately monu- 
 ments of Pagan pomp and superstition by which he, whom 
 the Athenians considered as " the setter-forth of strange 
 Gods," was at that time surrounded; representing to the 
 imagmation, at the same time, the disciples of Socrates and , 
 of Plato, the Dogmatist of the Porch, and the Sceptic 
 of the Academy, addressed by a poor and lowly man, whose 
 plain unvarnished precepts contained nothing but what was 
 contrary to their taste, and very hostile to their prejudices. 
 One of the peculiar privileges of the Areopagitce seems to 
 have been set at defiance by the zeal of the Apostle upon 
 this occasion ; namely, that of inflicting extreme and exem- 
 plary punishment upon any person who should slight the 
 celebration of the holy mysteries, or blaspheme the Gods 
 of Greece. We ascended to the top, by means of steps cut 
 within the natural stone, which is of breccia. The sublime 
 scene here exhibited is so striking, that a brief description 
 of it may prove how truly it offers to us a commentary 
 upon St. Paul's words, as they were delivered upon the spot. 
 He stood upon the open summit of the rock, beneath the 
 canopy of heaven 4 . Before him there was spread a glorious 
 
 prospect 
 
 (4) The Senate of the Areopagus assembled sometimes in the Royal Portico ; (vid. 
 
 Dcmosth. in Aristog. />. J331.) but its most ordinary place of meeting was on an eminence 
 
 VOL. III. 3 U at 
 
r^r* 
 
 |W*/»K ■ ! ?->r.««> 1 1 
 
 
 514 
 
 ATHENS. 
 
 chap. xii. prospect of mountains, islands, seas, and skies: behind him 
 towered the lofty Acropolis, crowned with all its marble 
 temples. Thus every object, whether in the face of Nature 
 or among the works of Art, conspired to elevate the mind, 
 and to fill it with reverence towards that Being " who 
 made and governs the world" 1 ; who sitteth in that light 
 which no mortal eye can approach, and yet is nigh unto 
 the meanest of his creatures ; " in whom we live, and move, 
 and have our being." 
 
 Within the Pcribolus of the Areopagus was the AJomi- 
 ment of (Edipus, whose bones, according to Pausanias 2 , «were 
 brought hither from Thebes ; and the actual site of the altar 
 mentioned by the same author may still be seen in the rock. 
 It is scarcely necessary to repeat the history of a place so well 
 known, and so long renowned for the impartial judgment 
 which was here administered 3 . We turned from it towards 
 
 the 
 
 at a small distance from the Citadel, (Herodot. lib.vi'u. c. 52.) called "Apuoc irdyoQ. Here 
 a space was levelled for this Court by planing the summit of the rock ; and the steps which 
 conducted to it were similarly carved out of the solid stone. In this respect it somewhat 
 resettled Pnyx. The origin of this Court may be traced back to the time of Cecrops : 
 (Marmor. Oxon.Epoch.3.) The Areopagus had no roof; but it was occasionally defended 
 from the weather by a temporary shed. (Jul. Poll. lib.Vni. c. 10. Vitruv. lib. ii. c. 1.) 
 
 (1 Acts xvii. 24, 28. 
 
 (2 1 "Effri Ci ivrds rov TrspcfioXov /uvif/xa OlSiirodoc. Uo\v7rpay/xoy(.>v ct, tvpiaKov 
 ret otr-d it: Q>]ft(jy Kopitadcyra. Pausan. lib. i. c. 28. p. 69. Lips. I696. 
 
 (3 1 Every thing the Reader may wish to see concentrated upon this subject, may be 
 found in the Thesaurus Grcecarum Antiquitatum of Gronovius ; and particularly in the 
 Areopagus Meursii, as edited by him. (Fid. Volum. Quint. p.10"J\. L. Bat. 1699.) 
 That the Hill of the Areopagus was a continuation of the western slope of the Acropolis, 
 seems manifest from the following allusion made to it by Lucian : — Movov drriofitv «r 
 Apeioy 77Uyov, fiaXkov ct ii<; ti)v 'A/vyjoVoXtv avrrjv, u<; dV ix rfjc vepiuTri]'; itfxa rar«- 
 (j>aveu) vuvra rd iv rij 7r6\si. " Tantum ad Areopagum abeamus, seu potius in ipsam 
 Arcem ; ut tanquam c specula, simul omnia, quae in urbe, conspiciantur." Fid. Lucian. 
 in Piscatorc, ap. Meurs. Areop. c. 1. Edit. Gronovii. 
 
ATHENS. 
 
 515 
 
 the Temple of Theseus, which exists almost as perfect 
 as when it was at first finished : having gratified our 
 curiosity by a hasty survey of the outside of this building — 
 which, although not of so much magnitude as the Parthenon, 
 ranks next to it in every circumstance of chaste design and 
 harmonious proportion — we entered the modern city by a> 
 gate near to the Temple, and were conducted to the 
 comfortable dwelling assigned for our abode, by Lusieri, 
 during the remainder of our residence in Athens. 
 
 CHAP. XII. 
 
 Temple of 
 Theseus. 
 
^fc: 
 
 *«* Gem, in the Authors Y^ e 
 
 CHAP. XIII. 
 
 CHAP. XIII. 
 
 ATHENS. 
 
 Temple of the Winds — Unknown Structure of the Corinthian Order 
 — The Bazar — Population and Trade of Athens — State of the 
 Arts — Manufacture of Pictures — Monochrome Painting of the 
 Antients — Terra Cottas — Origin of Painting and Pottery among 
 the Greeks — Medals and Gems — Explanation of the Amphora as 
 a symbol upon Athenian Coins — Ptolemaeum — Antient Marbles — 
 These'um — Grave of Tweddell — Description of the Temple — 
 Areopagus — Pirceean Gate — Pnyx — Monument on the Museum 
 — Antient Walls — Theatre and Cave of Bacchus — Monument of 
 Thrasyllus — Choragic Pillars — Remarkable Inscription — Origin 
 of the Crypt — Ice Plant in its native state — Arch of Hadrian — its 
 origin — ivhen erected — Temple of Jupiter Oly m pi us— Discordant 
 accounts of this building — reasons for the name assigned to it — 
 Ilissus — Fountain Callirhoe — False notions entertained of the river 
 — Stadium Panathenaicum — Sepulchre of Herodes — Hadrians 
 Reservoir — Mount Anchesmus — View from the summit. 
 
 1 h e next morning, October the thirtieth, we received a 
 visit from the English Consul, Signor Spiridion Logotheti, 
 
 who 
 
ATHENS. 517 
 
 who accompanied us to the Waiwode, or Turkish Go- chap. xm. 
 
 vernor. This ceremony being over, Lusieri conducted us 
 
 to see the famous marble Tower of the Winds, at a short Tcmpieof 
 
 the lP r i?idSn 
 
 distance from the bazar. This octagonal building is known 
 to be the same which Vitruvius mentions, but it is entirely 
 unnoticed by Pausanias. The soil has been raised all around 
 the tower, and in some places it has accumulated to the 
 height of fifteen feet : owing to this circumstance, the spec- 
 tator is placed too near to the figures sculptured in relief 
 upon the sides of the edifice; for these appear to be clumsy 
 statues, out of all proportion to the building. Lusieri 
 believed that it had been the original design of the architect 
 to raise those figures to a greater elevation than that in which 
 they were viewed even before the accumulation of the soil. 
 Stuart has been so diffuse in the description of the building 
 and every thing relating to it, that he has left nothing to 
 be added by other travellers'. It seems the Christians once 
 made use of it as a church ; and their establishment has been 
 succeeded by that of a college of Dervishes, who here exhibit 
 their peculiar dance. Probably it was one of the sacred 
 structures of the antient city ; and, as a place of religious 
 worship, answered to other purposes than that of merely 
 indicating the direction of the Winds, the Seasons, and the 
 Hours. The author of the Archceohgia Grceca seems to have 
 entertained this opinion, by calling it, after Wheler, the 
 Temple of the Eight Winds 2 . 
 
 We 
 
 (1) Antiquities of Athens, vol. III. c.3. Lond. 1762. 
 
 (2) Archreol. Graec. vol.1, c. 8. p. 35. Lond. If 51. 
 

 S&gB5£m» 
 
 518 
 
 CHAP. XIII. 
 
 ATHENS. 
 
 We then went to the bazar, and inspected the market. 
 
 The shops are situated on the two sides of a street lying to 
 
 the north of the Acropolis, which is close and parallel to the 
 
 wall and columns of a magnificent building of the Corinthian 
 
 Unkn order. The entablature, capitals, and parts of the shafts 
 
 thecorinthian of these columns, may be viewed from the street ; but the 
 
 Order. 
 
 market is for the most part covered by trellis-work and 
 vines. So little is known concerning the history of this 
 building, that it were vain to attempt giving an account of 
 it. Spon 1 , Wheler 8 , and Le Roy 5 , call it the Temple of 
 Jupiter Olympius. The temples of Jupiter were generally 
 not, like this building, of the Corinthian, but of the Doric 
 order : the same objection, however, applies to the received 
 opinion concerning those columns of Hadrian near the Ilissus, 
 which are now believed to have belonged to that temple. 
 Stuart considered this Corinthian structure near the bazar as 
 the Stoa, or portico, which was called Poikile 4 , or Pcecilc. 
 A fine view of the bazar, and also of the building, is given in 
 The Bazar. Le Roy's work 5 . It is highly probable that the bazar is 
 situated upon the antient market of the inner Ceramicus, 
 and near to the site of the greater Agora, from the circum- 
 stance of the Inscription mentioned by Spon and by Wheler, 
 containing a decree of the Emperor Hadrian relating to 
 
 the 
 
 (1) Voyage de Grece, et du Levant, fait aux annees 16/5 et 1676, torn. II. p. 107, 
 a La Haye, 1724. 
 
 (2) Journey into Greece, p.391. Lond. 1682. 
 
 (3) Ruines des Monumens de la Grece, p. 19. Paris, 1758. 
 
 (4) See Stuart's Athens, vol.1, c.5. Lond. 17 62. Ako vol. III. Plan of ths 
 Antiquities. Lond. 1794. 
 
 (5) See Plate X. Ruines, See. Paris, 1758. 
 
ATHENS. 
 
 519 
 
 the sale of oil, which was found upon the spot 6 . And if this 
 be true, the Corinthian edifice may be either the old Forum of 
 the inner Cer amicus, called APXAIA afopa, where the public 
 assemblies of the people were held, which is the most pro- 
 bable conjecture as to its origin, or the remains of the Temple 
 of Vulcan, or of Venus Urania ; for the Boric portico which 
 Stuart believed to have belonged to the Agora 1 is exactly 
 in a line with the front of this building ; and its situation 
 corresponds with that of the portico called BasiUuni by 
 Pausanias, beyond which the Temple of Vulcan stood 8 . 
 The measures for dry things, in the bazar, were fashioned 
 in the antient style, and of the materials formerly used, 
 being made of white marble ; but their capacity has been 
 adapted to modern customs : instead of the medimnus, the 
 chcenix, and the vcstcs, we found them to contain two 
 quintals, one quintal, and the half quintal. The population 
 of Athens amounts to fifteen thousand, including women 
 and children. The principal exports are honey and oil : 
 of the latter they send away about five vessels freighted 
 annually. Small craft, from different parts of the Archipelago, 
 occasionally visit the Pirceeus and the neighbouring coast, for 
 wood. The shops maintain an insignificant traffic in furs 
 and cloth. The best blue cloth in Athens was of bad German 
 
 CHAP. XIII. 
 
 Population 
 and Trade 
 of Athens. 
 
 raanu- 
 
 (6) See Spon, as above, p. 106. Wheler, p. 389. KAovo/ia vopufAOv Qiov 'Acptavov, 
 k. r. A. See also the Plan of Athens engraved as a Vignette to the last Chapter. 
 
 (7) Antiquities of Athens, vol.1, c. 1. p. 3. Lond. 1762. 
 
 (8) '\7r1p oi rdv Ktpujbieticdv icttt orodv n)v Ka\()vp,ivt]v Baafkttov, vao<: icrriv 
 
 'HyaicTTov irXifuiov cc hpov iariv 'AtypvciTt)'; Ovpavias. Pausaniae Attica, 
 
 «• 14. p. 30'. Lips. I696. 
 
520 
 
 ATHENS. 
 
 State of the 
 
 Arts. 
 
 Manufacture 
 of Pictures. 
 
 chap. xin. manufacture, selling under the name of English. Indeed, 
 in almost all the towns of Europe, when any thing is offered 
 for sale of better manufacture than usual, it is either English> 
 or said to be English 1 in order to enhance its price. 
 
 The silversmiths were occupied in making coarse rings for 
 the Albanian women; and the poor remains of Grecian painters 
 in fabricating, rather than delineating, pictures of Saints and 
 Virgins. Their mode of doing this may serve to shew how 
 exactly the image of any set of features, or the subject of any 
 representation, may be preserved unaltered, among different 
 artists, for many ages. The prototype is always kept by them, 
 and transmitted with great care from father to son (for in 
 Greece, as in China, the professions are often hereditary, 
 and remain in the same family for a number of generations) : 
 it consists of a piece of paper upon which the outline and 
 all the different parts of the design, even to the minutest cir- 
 cumstance, have been marked by a number of small holes 
 pricked w ith the point of a pin or a needle. This pattern is 
 laid on any surface prepared for painting, and rubbed over 
 
 with 
 
 (l) For the most accurate information respecting the commerce of Greece, in all 
 its parts, the Reader is referred to the publication of Mons. Beaujour (Tableau cu 
 Commerce de la Grece, par Felix Beaujour, Ex-Consul en Grece. Paris, 1800). Upon 
 the subject of " La draperieAnglaise," these imitations of English cloth are mentioned 
 as having the preference over the original manufacture. " Depuis cette epoque (173;) 
 le credit de la draperie Anglaise a toujours baisse. On a vu sur cette place le debit dis 
 Londres diminuer progressivement par la concurrence de nos londrins, fails a leur 
 imitation. Les londres sont des draps leges et grossiers, ainsi nommes, parce que lis 
 premiers fabriques furent etablies a Londres. L'assortiment etait d'abord invariablemeat 
 un tiers vert, un tiers bleu, et un tiers garance. On demande aujourd'hui des assorii- 
 mens composes tout de bleu." Tableau du Coram, torn. II. p. b. 
 
ATHENS. 
 
 521 
 
 with finely-powdered charcoal : the dust falling through the P* AP ' X1I1 \ 
 holes leaves a dotted outline for the painter, who then pro- 
 ceeds to apply the colours much after the same manner, by a 
 series of other papers having the places cut out where any 
 particular colour is to be applied. Very little skill is 
 requisite in the finishing; for, in fact, one of these 
 manufacturers of effigies might with just as much ease 
 give a rule to make a picture, as a tailor to cut out a suit of 
 clothes : the only essential requisite is a good set of patterns, 
 and these are handed from father to son. Hence we learn 
 the cause of that remarkable stiffness and angular outline 
 which characterize all the pictures in the Greek churches : 
 the practice is very antient; and although the works of some 
 Greek painters, which yet remain, enable us to prove that 
 there were artists capable of designing and drawing in a 
 more masterly manner, yet it is highly probable that the 
 pictures of the Antients were often of this description. 
 Whoever attentively examines the paintings upon terra- Monochrome 
 
 • i -i r 7 *ii Painting of 
 
 cotta vases, executed in the style call Monochromalon , will the Antients. 
 be convinced that such a process was used; only with this 
 difference : the parts for the picture were either left bare, 
 being covered by the pattern, and the whole surface of the 
 vessel which remained exposed was coated with black paint ; 
 or, cavities being cut out for the figures, were filled with 
 the black or white colour, and the rest of the vase possessed 
 the natural hue of the clay after being baked. The latter 
 
 process 
 
 (2) " Secundam singulis coloribus, et monochromatun dictam, postquam operosior 
 inventa erat." Plin. Hist. Nat. lib. xxxv. c.3. torn. III. p. 417. L. Bat. 1635. 
 
 VOL. III. 3 X 
 

 522 
 
 A THEN S. 
 
 chap, xiii. process was the more antient ; and vases of this description arc 
 decorated with black, or very rarely with white, figures and 
 ornaments upon a red ground. The fact is, that the white 
 colour has been generally decomposed, and nothing remains 
 but the ground upon which it was laid. After a vase 
 has been discovered in an antient sepulchre, the white colour 
 is so fugitive that it is sometimes carried off by the mene 
 process of washing the vessel in common water, and it 
 never resists the acids which are used for that purpose. 
 The persons who deal in these antiquities, at Naples 
 and in other parts of Italy, very commonly retouch and 
 restore their vases, adding a little white paint where the 
 white colour has disappeared. The monochrome paintings 
 of the Antients sometimes consisted of white colour upon 
 a red or black ground : this style of painting was expressed 
 by the word Mvxoygdtpst/. The most beautiful of the 
 monochrome paintings are those which were executed upon 
 earthen vases when the Arts were considerably advanced : 
 these exhibit red figures upon a black ground ; the beautiful 
 red colour is owing solely to the fine quality of the clay : 
 the effect was afterwards heightened by the addition of an 
 outline, at first rudely scratched with the point of a sharp 
 instrument, but in the best ages of the Arts carefully 
 delineated ; and often tinted with other colours, in so 
 masterly a style, that it has been said Raphael, under similar 
 
 circum- 
 
 (1) (Aristot. Poet. c.Q. See also Winkelmann Hist, de VArt, torn. II. p. 144. 
 Paris, An 2.) Sometimes a red colour was singly applied upon white marble ; in 
 which style of painting four pictures were found in Herculaneum : and, lastly, there 
 were monochrome paintings with a black colour upon a red ground j as upon the 
 terra-cotta vases. 
 
 
ATHENS. 
 
 523 
 
 circumstances, could not have produced any thing superior chap , x ml 
 either in beauty or correctness 2 . But the vases which are Terra Cottas - 
 characterized by such perfection of the art, rarely exhibit 
 paintings of equal interest with those fabricated at an 
 earlier epocha. The designs upon the latter generally 
 serve to record historical events; or they represent the 
 employments of man in the earliest ages; either when 
 engaged in destroying the ferocious animals which infested 
 his native woods, or in procuring by the chace the 
 means of his subsistence 3 . The representations upon the 
 former relate only to the ceremonies of the bath and of 
 the toilet; or to the dances, and the games, as they were 
 celebrated at the Grecian festivals. The subject of Grecian 
 painting has insensibly led to that of the terra-cotta vases, 
 because these have preserved for us the most genuine 
 specimens of the art as it existed in the remotest periods 
 of its history ; and we now see that the method employed 
 by the earliest Grecian artists in their monochrome 
 painting is still used by Athenian workmen in the ma- 
 nufacture of their idol pictures. The silver shrines with 
 which such pictures are covered, especially in Russia, having 
 holes cut in them to shew the faces and hands of their Saints 
 and Virgins, exhibit exactly the sort of superficies used 
 upon these occasions for laying on the parts of the painting; 
 
 and 
 
 (2) See the observations of D'Hancarville, Italinski, Sir W. Hamilton, &c. &c. 
 
 (3) Monochrome paintings upon ivory have been found where it might be least 
 expected that anything resembling the arts of Etruria or of Greece would be discovered j 
 namely, among the Aleoutau Isles, between North America and Kamschatka. The 
 author had in his possession an ivory bow, brought thence by Commodore Billings; on 
 which the natives were represented as engaged in fishing, &c. ; the figures, delineated in a 
 black colour, perfectly resembled the paintings on the oldest terra-cotta vases. 
 

 
 524 ATHENS. 
 
 chap , xii l an( j ^ : s verv probable that the Russian painters, who 
 manufacture these images for sale, received from the Greeks 
 with their religion this method of preparing them. A curious 
 piece of chicanery is practised by the Russian dealers in this 
 species of holy craft. The silver shrine is supposed to serve as 
 a mere case to inclose the sacred picture ; leaving only the 
 small apertures before mentioned, for their Bog/is, or Gods, 
 to peep through : but as the part beneath the silver super- 
 ficies is not seen, they spare themselves the trouble of 
 painting anything except the face and hands of the image; 
 so that if the case by any accident fall off, the bare wood 
 is disclosed, instead of the rest of the picture. But to return 
 to the art of painting among the Antient Greeks : If we except 
 the pictures found in Herculaneum, Pompeii, and Stabia, and 
 the few faint vestiges upon marble statues, we may despair 
 of seeing anything so perfect as those specimens which 
 are preserved upon terra cotta ; whether upon facings 
 intended for architecture 1 , or upon vases found in Grecian 
 
 origin of sepulchres. It is evident that these pictures are purely 
 
 Painting and * l.xj 
 
 fheGrSs 011 * Grecian, because Greek inscriptions so often accompany 
 them ; but it seems equally evident that the Greeks were 
 indebted for the art to the Etruscans. The art of making 
 earthenware was transported from Etruria into Greece. The 
 Romans also borrowed this invention from the Etruscans; 
 to whom Greece was indebted for many of its ceremonies 
 and religious institutions 2 , and for its mechanics and 
 
 artificers. 
 
 (1) Painted terra cotta was sometimes used in Grecian buildings, for the fries 
 
 and other ornaments : of this an example will be given in a subsequent descriptioi 
 of Ruins in Epidauria. 
 
 (2) Plato de Leg. lib. v. 
 
ATHENS. 
 
 525 
 
 artificers 3 . According to Heraclides Ponticus, the inhabitants chap.xiii. 
 
 of Etruria were distinguished in all the Arts and Sciences 4 ; 
 
 and before the foundation of Rome the art of painting had 
 
 attained a high degree of perfection in that country, for 
 
 Pliny mentions pictures at Ardea which were older than 
 
 the birth of Romulus 5 . This alone is sufficient to shew, that, 
 
 in the eighth century before the Christian tera, and above an 
 
 hundred years before the age of Solon, consequently before 
 
 the Arts obtained any footing in Greece, the same people 
 
 who taught the Greeks the art of making earthenware were 
 
 also well acquainted with the art of painting. In addition, 
 
 it may be urged that the cities of Nola and Capua were 
 
 founded and built by the Etruscans 6 ; and it is remarkable 
 
 that the vases of Nola are peculiar for elegance of design 
 
 and excellence of workmanship 7 . 
 
 Among the few articles of Athenian cutlery to be met 
 with in the market, we found some small knives and forks, 
 with white bone handles, inscribed with mottoes in modern 
 Greek, characteristic of the manners and sentiments of the 
 people ; such, for example, as the following : 'P/£a rctvruv 
 tm kkkm \o-7tv 7] pXugyvgiu, " The love of money is the root of 
 
 all 
 
 (3) Pherecrates ap. Athen. Diepnos. lib. x. 
 
 (4) In Fragment, ad Calc. JEIian. 
 
 (5) " Extant certe hoditque antiquiores urbe picture Aides: in aedibus sacris, 
 quibus equidem nnllas cequc demiror tarn longo aevo durantes in orbitate tecti, veluti 
 recenter." Plin. Hist. Nut. lib. xxxv. torn. III. p. 4ig. L. Bat. 1635. 
 
 (6) Cato ap. Vel. Paterc. lib. i. c. 7. 
 
 (7) The author has not seen a Dissertation by the Able Lanzi, which is cited in a 
 work published by the Society of Dilettanti (entitled " Specimens of Antient Sculpture," 
 Load. I8O9.) as containing proof that the Etruscans {See the Observations facing 
 Plate 17.) " followed the improvements of the Greeks at a respectful distance, find had 
 no pretensions to that venerable antiquity in the Arts which has been assigned to them." 
 

 •*i+K-M***UJKr&**&*&t*ti*ll'> 
 
 526 
 
 CHAP. XIII. 
 
 Medals and 
 Gems. 
 
 ATHENS. 
 
 all evils " Mrjfom %a,ru,(pgovfiv, " Fbw should despise no one. ' 
 For the rest, nothing can be more wretchedly supplied than 
 Athens with the most common articles of use or convenience. 
 The artists employed for the British Ambassador were under 
 the necessity of sending to Smyrna to obtain a wheeled cart 
 for moving the marbles to the Pirceeus, and for all the 
 materials and implements wanted in preparing cases to 
 contain them. No ladders could be found, nor any instru- 
 ments proper for making them. It was not possible to 
 procure the most ordinary domestic utensils, nor a single 
 article of curriery 1 . 
 
 Specimens of antient art are less rare. A goldsmith sold to 
 us some beautiful gold medals, of Alexander and of Philip, for 
 double their weight in Venetian sequins. He had several gems 
 of great beauty in his possession, but he estimated them as if 
 he intended to make his fortune by the sale of them. Some 
 of these are perhaps now in England. One of them was 
 a small red and white sardonyx cameo ; the subject, Jupiter, 
 in his war with the Giants, hurling the thunder ; the god 
 
 being 
 
 (l) A couple of old Turkish saddles, which had belonged to the late Mr.Tweddell, 
 were first recommended and afterwards sold to us by Spiridion Logotheti, the English 
 Consul, at an enormous price, as his own property : possession in Athens, as elsewhere, 
 with regard to Mr. Tweddell's effects, being considered equal to " nine points of the 
 law." He knew very well that our future travels in Greece depended, in a great measure, 
 upon this acquisition, and he took care to profit by the occasion. All subsequent travellers 
 have noticed his rapacity. When Stuart was in Athens, he met with similar treatment 
 from our Consul : and as long as these situations are held by Greeks, Englishmen who 
 visit the country will be liable to their exactions. Hardly a day passed without a demand 
 from this man for money, under some pretext or other. This Note is therefore inserted 
 as a caution to the number of our countrymen now visiting Greece; that they may 
 have as little intercourse as possible with Greeks calling themselves English Consuls, or 
 really acting in that capacity. 
 
ATHENS. 
 
 527 
 
 being represented in a car, with four horses : the work- chap , xm, 
 
 manship of this cameo was exceedingly fine 2 . The author 
 
 also obtained here, for forty piastres, the fine silver tetra- 
 
 drachm of Lysimachus, exhibiting the portrait of Alexander 
 
 the Great, which he caused to be engraved for a Dissertation 
 
 upon the Soros brought from Alexanders Tomb; and he 
 
 afterwards procured, from an Albanian family, a silver 
 
 medal of Athens, of equal size, and almost equal beauty, symbol of the 
 
 x void Amphora 
 
 The well-known symbol of the void Amphora, lying horizon- explained. 
 tally upon the reverses of Athenian medals, has never received 
 any satisfactory illustration. It is accompanied by an owl, 
 and the bird is represented sitting upon the vessel. The 
 mythological principle implied by the one may therefore be 
 supposed to have an allusion also in the other; and that 
 this is true, and that the principle so expressed was passive 
 as to its nature, may be clearly shewn by reference to a 
 few facts. The owl was the symbol of Pallas, because it 
 denoted the privation or the absence of light ; and the author 
 has proved, upon a former occasion 3 , that Pallas, or the 
 whole body of female Divinities whom this Goddess was 
 supposed to personify, or Night, or Silence, or Death, or 
 any other sign of privation, was but a type of the passive 
 principle : consequently, the void amphora, or the Gorgonian 
 head (which Pallas bore upon her aegis, and which also 
 often appears with the amphora upon the medals of Athens), 
 
 or 
 
 H 
 
 (2) The same subject is represented, but with the addition of the Giants and their 
 serpent legs, precisely after the same manner, by the fine antique engraved in the 
 Paris edition of Winkelmann's works. Voxj. CEuvrcs completes de Winkelmann, torn. IL 
 liv. iv. c. 8. p. 115. Paris, An 2. 
 
 (3) See " Greek Marbles," p. 30. also Append, p. 72. 
 

 
 528 
 
 ATHENS. 
 
 chap. xiii. or the owl, or the mythological principle denoted by any 
 one of these, was an allusion to the sleep of Nature, and 
 must have been considered as the memento mori of the 
 Pagan world. For a decisive proof of this, it may be urged, 
 that the form of the amphora itself was sometimes given to 
 the Stele, as a sepulchral monument 1 . A tomb was opened 
 in the South of Russia, containing on either side of it a void 
 amphora leaning against the Soros" 1 . Sometimes the Antients 
 represented a winged Sphinx as sitting upon an empty 
 amphora*; and the Sphinx, as it is well known, is one of 
 the sepulchral monuments in the great cemetery of Memphis. 
 The same vessel was made an accompaniment of Charon and 
 Hermes when conducting to Hades the souls of the dead, as 
 they are represented upon the gems of Greece 4 . 
 
 Proceeding through the inhabited part of the city, 
 towards the north-west, a little beyond the Corinthian 
 structure to which we have so lately alluded, we came to 
 an extensive Ruin, encumbered with modern buildings, 
 which Stuart, from the imperfect survey he was able to 
 
 ptoicmaum. ma ke of it, considered as the Gymnasium of Ptolemy'. 
 
 Its 
 
 (1) A marble amphora of this description is in the Collection of Greek Marbla at 
 Cambridge: it was found upon the shore of the Propontis ; and presented by Speacer 
 Smith, Esq. late Minister Plenipotentiary at the Ottoman Porte, brother of Sir 
 Sidney Smith. 
 
 (2) The place is called Ovidiopol by the Russians. There is an engraved representa- 
 tion of the interior of the tomb in Pallas's Travels through the South of Russia, 
 vol. II. p. 244. 
 
 (3) Voy. Recherches sur l'Origin des Arts, &c. 
 
 (4) .See the Vignette to this Chapter ; from a scarabcean gem in the autlor's 
 possession. Mercnry, in this representation, appears to be offering the cake of four 
 and honey to appease Cerberus. Fid. Aristoph. in Lysist. v. 601. Schol. ib. Ic. in 
 Eccles. v. 534. 
 
 (5) See vol. III. p. 3. Antiq. of Athens. Lond. 1794. 
 
ATHENS. 
 
 Its vicinity to the Temple of Theseus renders this Ihighly 
 probable. Stuart indeed speaks of its plan; but he has not 
 given it. Concealed as it is by dwellings, and greatly 
 dilapidated, we have not even attempted to supply what 
 that able architect and inquisitive traveller did not feel him- 
 self authorised, from the state of the Ruin, to communicate. 
 As we passed through the town, there was hardly a 
 house that had not some little marble fragment of antient 
 sculpture stuck in its front, over the door ; and since most 
 of the houses have court-yards, where the objects within 
 are concealed from the observation of passengers in the 
 streets, many valuable antiquities will be brought to light 
 as Athens becomes more visited. The few articles which 
 we collected, during our residence here, may be con- 
 sidered as promising indications of future acquisitions of 
 the same nature. In the yard belonging to the house where 
 we resided, there were two Bas-reliefs ; and although the 
 workmanship in each of them is not characterized by the 
 masterly style and execution which distinguishes the sculpture 
 in the Acropolis, yet it is easy to perceive that they have been 
 touched by the hand of an Athenian artist. They were both 
 given to us by our hostess the first day after our arrival ; and 
 they are now in the University Library at Cambridge. One 
 of them represents the initiation of Hercules by a priestess 
 of Ceres'; and it is singular that the figure of Hercules is 
 draped. The other exhibits a female figure, seated, to whom 
 a male is presenting a new-born infant. The Grecians were 
 
 accustomed 
 
 Antient * 
 Marbles. 
 
 (5) This ceremony is said to have taken place, not at Eleusis, but at the Temple of 
 Ceres in Agra, where the lesser mysteries were celebrated. Vid. Stephan. in Lib. 
 Meursii de Populis Attiar, ap. Gronov. Thes. Grcec. Antiq. vol. IV. p. 6'S3. L. Ba 1. 11 699. 
 VOL. III. 3 Y 
 
9W* : ^fT*** »j»wp^i"j»*lim TT " " ., Tr WJH 
 
 <'.%^»w-, c *.TNB>i.'* ; >-,>».'f,>t>v>l»Sr.^»W,-* 
 
 
 530 
 
 CHAP. XIII. 
 
 ATHENS. 
 
 accustomed to consign their newly-born children to the 
 tutelar care of some Deity, upon the fifth day after their 
 birth : upon this occasion they went in white robes, with 
 their feet bare. But the figure in this bas-relief carrying 
 the child may allude to a circumstance which occurred in 
 the life of Caligula, who placed his infant daughter, 
 Livia Drusilla, in the lap of the protecting Minerva. The 
 sculpture is remarkable for the ease and freedom which 
 it displays. It is a very uncommon circumstance to have 
 these things pointed out by a Turk : but \vc had this 
 good luck ; for passing the door of a Turkish house, its 
 owner hailed us with the usual appellation, — " Djowrs ! here 
 is some rubbish suited to your taste : take it off my premises /." 
 He had found in his garden, among some old foundations, 
 the half of a marble bas-relief, which represented the annual 
 procession of the Athenian citizens, with their youth, to tie 
 ceremony of initiation at Eleusis ; and for a trifle he allowed 
 us to remove it, seeming to be quite happy in getting rid of 
 a stone on which human figures were delineated. We saw 
 also, in one of the streets, an antient marble Stele, lying 
 horizontally, and serving as a horse-block. When we drew 
 near to examine it, we discovered that it had been placed 
 upon the Tomb of Euclid of Hermione, whom we found 
 to be represented upon the upper part of the pillar, standing 
 beneath an arch, in a philosopher's habit, and with a sere II 
 in his hand. Beneath this figure, near to the base of tie 
 pillar, and upon the part of the stone which must have been 
 buried when the Ste'le was erected, we observed the usual 
 animal symbol of Anubis, the infernal Mercury, in the foitn 
 of a dog, rudely sketched upon the surface; and over tie 
 
 arched 
 
A T HENS. 
 
 arched recess, containing the figure of the philosopher, we 
 read, in very legible characters, this Inscription in the Doric 
 dialect, remarkable for the variation in the genitive case : 
 
 EYKAIAAZ EYKAIAOY 
 EPM I ONEYZ 
 
 " EUCLID SON OF EUCLID OF HERMIONE." 
 
 Of two celebrated philosophers who bore this name, the 
 disciple of Socrates, as the first, was a native of Megara; 
 and the mathematician, as the second, flourished at 
 Alexandria. The manner of the writing, the style of the 
 sculpture, and the form of the arch, might induce an opinion 
 that this Stele was not of antient date sufficient for either 
 of their sepulchres; yet it may be observed that Spon 1 has 
 given, from a medal struck at Megara, a portrait of Euclid 
 the Wrangler, with his name on one side, and that of 
 Hadrian on the other ; and Bellori has published a different 
 coin (MErAPEXIN) with the head of Euclid, as Aulus Gellius* 
 describes it, " rkd vclatus," with which the figure on the 
 Stele agrees. Both representations may therefore have 
 been intended to represent the same individual; and what 
 further confirms this is, that whilst the reverse of the medal 
 exhibits the figure of Diana, bearing in either hand a torch, 
 as the symbol of the lower regions and of night, so the dog 
 on the Stele, the animal figure of Anubis, is also that of 
 Sirius at its heliacal setting : a significant and appropriate 
 emblem of the philosopher descending into the infernal 
 shades. These marbles, together with our other subsequent 
 
 acqui- 
 
 531 
 
 CHAP. XIII. 
 
 (l) Miscell. Erud. Antiq. sec. iv. 
 
 (2) Lib. vi. c. 10. 
 
532 ATHENS. 
 
 ? HAP - XI "-, acquisitions in bas-reliefs and fragments found in Athens, 
 amounting to fourteen pieces from this city alone, are now 
 in the University Library at Cambridge : and as the author's 
 account of them is already before the public, it will be 
 unnecessary in this place to notice the rest 1 . 
 
 We accompanied Signor Lusieri to the Theseum ; and, 
 having obtained admission to the interior of the temple, 
 paid a melancholy visit to the grave of that accomplished 
 scholar whose name we had found inscribed upon the pillars 
 of Sunium; the exemplary and lamented Tweddell*. it 
 
 Theseum. 
 
 Grave of 
 Tweddelju 
 
 was 
 
 (1) See "Greek Marbles/' N os - x. xi. xn. xv. xvn. xvm. xxn. xxvn. xxx. 
 xxxui. xxxv. xxxvi. xxxvu. Camlridgc, I8O9. 
 
 (2) John Tweddell, the eldest son of Francis Tweddell, Esq. of Threcpwood 
 in the County of Northumberland, was born on the 1st of June I/69; and after 
 passing through the usual course of preparatory education, was entered at Trinity 
 College, Cambridge, where he distinguished himself by such proofs of original genius 
 as are, perhaps, without example, even in the records of that learned Society. As a 
 candidate for University honours, his <f Prolusiones Academict$" attest his'success to have 
 been equally brilliant and extraordinary, and supersede the necessity of particular 
 illustration. Mr. Tweddell was elected a Fellow of Trinity College in 1/92, and soon 
 afterwards entered himself a Student of Lincoln's Inn, where he kept his terms and 
 continued to reside until the year 17Q5, when he left England to commence his travels 
 on the continent of Europe — and met with that untimely fate which has mixed his 
 ashes with those of the sages and philosophers of Greece. He visited Switzerland, 
 Germany, most parts of the Russian Empire, and particularly the Crimea, where his 
 intercourse with Professor Pallas was of the most intimate kind, and had so endeared 
 him to that amiable scholar, that the admiration with which he spoke of him partook 
 of the tenderness and affection of a father. From the borders of the Euxine, where 
 his researches were both diligent and productive, he proceeded to Constantinople ; 
 and after spending some part of the summer of 1798 under the hospitable roof of 
 Spencer Smith, Esq. the English Minister, he took his departure for the Grecian 
 Islands ; and having traversed the provinces of Macedonia and Thessaly, arrived a: 
 Athens, where, after a residence of several months, he reached the period of all his 
 learned labours, on the 25th of July ] 799. 
 
 Mr. Tweddell, independent of the advantages which his own merit secured for bin 
 
 in the countries which he visited, possessed recommendations and facilities of a superioi 
 
 kind for conducting his learned pursuits ; and his industry keeping pace with his talenb 
 
 and 
 
ATHENS. 533 
 
 was simply a small oblong heap of earth, like to those over chap. xm. 
 the common graves in all our English church-yards, without 
 stone, or inscription of any kind. The body, too, had been 
 carelessly interred : we were told that it did not lie more 
 than three or four feet beneath the surface. The part of the 
 temple where it has been buried is now converted into 
 a Greek church, dedicated to St. George ; but as it is left 
 open during particular times of the year, and is always 
 liable to be entered by foraging animals who creep into such 
 retreats, we thought it probable that the body would be 
 disturbed unless further precaution were used ; and at any 
 rate it was proper that some stone should be laid upon the 
 spot. Having therefore obtained permission to take up the 
 coffin, and Lusieri promising to superintend the work, we sat 
 about providing a proper covering for the grave ; promising 
 to send an inscription worthy of the name it was destined 
 to commemorate. Large blocks of Pentelican marble from 
 
 the 
 
 and opportunities, his Collections and Manuscripts are known to have been extensive 
 and singularly valuable. Perhaps no traveller of modern times has enjoyed in an equal 
 degree the means of investigating the Antiquities of Greece. Thai the literary property, 
 therefore, of this gentleman, after being in the undisputed custody of the British Ambas- 
 sador at Constantinople, should absolutely have disappeared in toto, and eluded the most 
 diligent inquiries of his family and friends, presents a subject for the deepest regret, and 
 is a circumstance in itself of the most unaccountable nature. Upon this point, however, 
 the author refrains from saying all that he might, in the expectation of seeing this strange 
 mystery unfolded by a kindred hand which may justly aspire to the best information. 
 He will therefore close this imperfect sketch of his accomplished friend, with briefly 
 observing, that the endowments of the scholar, in this instance, were, in a singular degree, 
 associated with those polished but unaffected manners which give them peculiar lustre ; and 
 recommended yet more substantially by the addition of the most amiable and engaging 
 virtues. As a consolotary expectation, he believes he may venture to add, that the 
 friends of Mr. Tweddell have a prospect of being gratified with a selection of his 
 correspondence. 
 

 ■ ■ ' • ■ ■ 
 
 534 
 
 ATHENS. 
 
 Description of 
 the Temple. 
 
 chap. xiii. the Parthenon, which had been sawed from the bas-reliefs 
 intended for our Ambassador, were then lying in the 
 Acropolis ready for the purpose : we therefore begged for 
 one of these ; and before we left Athens every thing had 
 been settled, and seemed likely to proceed according to our 
 wishes'. 
 
 This beautiful Doric temple, more resembling, in the 
 style of its architecture, the temples of Paestum than that 
 of Minerva in the Acropolis, and the most entire of any of 
 the remaining structures of Antient Greece were it not for 
 the damage which the sculptures have sustained, may be 
 considered as still perfect. The ruined state of the metopes 
 and frieze has proved indeed a very fortunate circumstance ; 
 for it was owing solely to this that the building escaped the 
 ravages which were going on in the Parthenon. Lusieri 
 told us there was nothing but what was considered as too 
 much mutilated to answer for the expense and difficulty of 
 
 taking 
 
 (l) A curious sort of contest has, however, since impeded the work. Other English 
 travellers arrived in Athens; and a dispute arose, fomented by the feuds and jealousies 
 of rival artists and opposite parties in politics, both as to the nature of the inscription, 
 and the persons who should be allowed tc accomplish the work. At length, it is said 
 that, owing to the exertions of Lord Bynn, and another most enterprising traveller 
 Mr. John Fiott, of St. John's College, Cambridge, the stone has been laid ; and the 
 following beautiful Epitaph, composed by Mr. Walpole in 1805, has been inscribec 
 thereon. 
 
 Ei/'ti£«c £v <j>difjLtvoi(Ti' p.drr\v Zo^irjc itot E^piipat 
 
 "AvdfCt, KCtl CTE VEOV Moi/ff C(j>l'\l]<TE fld'tt]V . 
 
 'AXXa fiovov toi cru/ua to yjj.vov dfityiKukvirru 
 
 Tvfifios' rrjv \pv\rjp ovpatos dlirve *%"• 
 'Hp.iv 0' oi <T£ (j)i\oi, (f>i\ov tk, Kara £dnpv ytovrte, 
 
 Myijjua tyikotypoavvt]*;, yrk^pov, ocvpopeda, 
 'HEv y opus Kal rtpirvov evuv tout iariv, 'AQHNAIi 
 ''Us av, J&ptTavvoc 'euv, ceiosai tv tT7rocit{. 
 
ATHENS. 
 
 taking it down 2 . The entire edifice is of Pentelican 
 marble : it stands east and west, the principal front facing 
 the east ; and it is that kind of building which was called 
 by antient architects, as it is expressed in the language 
 of Vitruvius and explained by Stuart 3 , a Peripteros ; that 
 is to say, it has a portico of six columns in each front, and 
 on each side a range of eleven columns, exclusive of the 
 columns on the angles. All these columns remain in their 
 original position, excepting two that separated the portico 
 from the pronaos, which have been demolished. Every 
 circumstance respecting them has already been often de- 
 tailed. Like all pillars raised according to the most antient 
 Doric style of building, they are without bases or pedestals; 
 standing, with inexpressible dignity and simplicity 4 , upon the 
 
 pavement 
 
 535 
 
 CHAP. XIII. 
 
 (2) Accordingly we read, — " As the walls and columns of this monument are in their 
 original position, no part of the sculpture has been displaced, nor the minutest fragment 
 of any kind separated from the building." {Memorandum, p. 18. Lond. 1811.) 
 There is nothing said here of the " impending ruin " {Ibid. p. 8.) to which the remaining 
 sculpture is exposed ; nothing of " the zeal of the early Christians" {p. 11.) and " the 
 barbarism of the Turks :" but we are told that " the temple itself" {p. 19.) is very 
 inferior in decorative sculpture to the Parthenon ,-" and this remark, made with great 
 naivete, most happily explains the hair-lreadth escape of the building from the ill-judged 
 rapacity which has tended to the ruin of the, noblest monuments of Greece. , 
 
 (3) See Stuart's Athens, vol. III. p. 5. Lond. 1/Q4. 
 
 (4) " The awful dignity and grandeur in this kind of temple, arising from the perfect 
 agreement of its parts, strikes the beholder with a sensation which he may look for in 
 
 vain in buildings of any other description There is a certain appearance of 
 
 eternal duration in this species of edifice, that gives a solemn and majestic feeling, while 
 
 every part is perceived to contribute its share to this character of durability 
 
 These considerations will convince us that no material change can be made in the pro- 
 portions of the genuine Doric, without destroying its peculiar character." See Reveley's 
 Pref to vol. III. of Stuarts Athens, p. 14. Lond. I7g4. 
 

 
 536 
 
 ATHENS. 
 
 chap. xin. pavement of the covered walk around the cell of the temple;. 
 Some of the metopes represent the labours of Hercules ; 
 others, the exploits of Theseus ; and there arc some whicln 
 were never adorned with any sculpture. Above the antae 
 of the pronaos is a sculptural frieze, the subject of which 
 cannot now be determined ; and the battle of the Centaurs and 
 Lapithae,is represented upon a similar frieze of the posticus:. 
 In the tympanum of the pediment, over the eastern front., 
 Stuart observed several holes in the marble, where rrietal 
 cramps had been fixed for sustaining sculpture in entire 
 relief, as over the eastern entrance to the Parthenon 1 . The 
 action of the atmosphere in this fine climate upon the 
 marble has diffused over the whole edifice, as over all the 
 buildings in the Acropolis, a warm ochreous tint, which is 
 peculiar to the ruins of Athens : it bears no resemblance to 
 that black and dingy hue which is acquired by all works 
 in stone and marble when they have been exposed to the 
 open air in the more northern countries of Europe, and 
 especially in England. Perhaps to this warm colour, so 
 remarkably characterizing the remains of antient buildings at 
 Athens, Plutarch alluded, in that beautiful passage- cited by- 
 Chandler, 
 
 (1) See Stuart's Athens, vol. III. p. 2. Lond. 17Q4. 
 
 (2) "Ode v kciI /xdWov 6av/xd^rrai ret TlepiK\cov<; ipya rrpSt ttoKvv -^povov h> 6\iy<p 
 yti'd/ueva. KctWet fj.tv yap [Kairrov tvdvs ?)V tots dpyalov, at; ftp Si fttyP 1 vvv 
 7rp6rT(j>aTdv can Kal veovpyov' ovtm>; tTravdu Tit; KttivdTiy; del dducrov vrro tov y/pdvou 
 
 BiaTvpovtxu t,}v tyiv, ftiriEP AEI0AAE2 IINEYMA KAI YYXHN AFHPft 
 KATAMEMIFMEXHN TUN EPH1N- EXONTflN. Plutarch, in Vit. Pericl. 
 torn. I. p. 352. Lond. 1/2Q. 
 
ATHENS. 
 
 Chandler', when he affirmed, that the structures of Pericles 
 possessed a peculiar and unparalleled excellence of cha- 
 racter; " a certain freshness bloomed upon them, and 
 preserved their faces uninjured, as if they possessed a never- 
 fading spirit, and had a soul insensible to age." In the 
 description given of the These'um by Pausanias, he mentions 
 TPA<t>AI among the decorations 4 ; and Chandler gives this word 
 as he found it in the original text of that author 5 , without 
 rendering it, as some have done, "pictures," or "painted 
 representations." The very subjects of those representations 
 correspond with the remaining sculptures upon the metopes 
 and frieze ; and Mycon, who is mentioned as the artist, 
 was a statuary as well as a painter. The history of the hero, 
 to whose memor} r this magnificent building was erected, 
 resembles, as to its probability, one of the extravagant fictions 
 of the " Arabian Nights ;*' and may be regarded as upon an 
 equality with the " Voyages of Sinbad," or the " Story of 
 Aladdin." That it was originally a tomb, like all other 
 Grecian temples, can admit of no doubt : eight hundred 
 years had elapsed, when Cimon removed the precious 
 reliques from the Isle of Scyros, which were here en- 
 shrined ; and the circumstances of the brazen-headed lance 
 and sword, found with the bones said to have belonged 
 to Theseus, denote weapons of the remotest ages : but 
 
 the 
 
 (3) Trav. in Greece, c. 9. p. 39. Oxford, 1776. 
 
 (4) I patyai Se eioi, k. t. X. Itypairrui ct cv tu> tqv Qrjatax: itpv kciI i\ Hevravpuv 
 Kul >} Aamdaiy fid^)). Pausaniae Attica, c. 17 '• p. 40. Lips. l6g6. 
 
 (5) Trav. in Greece, c. 1-4. p. 71. Orf. 1/76. 
 
 (o) EivptHt) cc d)JK)/ re fnydXuv rrcSfxaror,, alvuij rt TrapaKei^.tv>) ^a\K>j, xal £160$, 
 Plut. in Vit. Thes. torn. I. p. 35. Lond. 1729. 
 VOL. III. 3 Z 
 
 537 
 
 CHAP. XIII. 
 
538 
 
 ATHENS. 
 
 cHAP . xiir. the manner in which the place of his original intermenit 
 had been pointed out 1 , calls to mind the juggling of ;a 
 later period, when the mother of Constantine sought t<o 
 discover the real timber on which the Messiah had suffered 
 crucifixion : so easy has it been in every age to gratify 
 a credulous and superstitious people, by delusions of pre- 
 tended miracles, and dreams of a particular Providence 
 interrupting the order of Nature for purposes the most con- 
 temptible; although, in the history of the world, few instances 
 have occurred where a monument of equal magnificence 
 has resulted from any idle and stupid fiction. The buildinjg 
 is believed to bear date from the event mentioned hj 
 Plutarch, both in his Life of Cimon, and of Theseus; wheni, 
 after the conquest of Scyros, the son of Miltiades arrived iin 
 Athens bearing the mouldering bones and weapons he had 
 so marvellously discovered. They were received by the 
 Athenians, says Plutarch 2 , as if Theseus himself had returned 
 among them. The solemnity of their interment took place 
 in the very midst of the city, near to the Gymnasium 9 ; 
 accompanied by every splendid pomp and costly sacrifice w T ith 
 which the Athenians, of all people, were the most ready to 
 appease the manes of a departed hero. This event happened 
 during the Archonship of Apsephion ; so that the These'um 
 
 has 
 
 (1) T Hi> cc ical\a(5eiv diropia, Kal yvutvai tov rdtyov, dfxt^lai Kal y^uXeirdrtiTt tg>v 
 IvoiKovvToyy ftapftdpuv. ov fitv d\\d Kal Kifivv iXwv tijv vtjaov, wf iv rote ircpl tKtivov 
 yLypaTrTui, Kal <j>t\ort/Liov/,iei>oc Qavevpuv, AETOT TINA TOIION BOTNOEIAH 
 KOI1TONT02, we <pu(T(, T(f arofxari kuI diaoriXXovroe tok, ovv'^i, Qiiai tiv\ ri/vjy 
 Mfxtipomjactf;, dviaKaxj/sv. Plut. in Vit. Thes. p. 35. Lond. 1729. 
 
 (2) '' Slain p avrov tiravtp^dfitvov eh to uarv. Ibid. 
 
 (3) Tlapd to vvv yvp.vdcnov. Ibid. 
 
ATHENS. 
 
 539 
 
 has now braved the attacks of time, of earthquakes, and chap , xm. 
 of barbarians, during a lapse of considerably above two 
 thousand years 4 ; and its relative position with regard to the 
 Gymnasium renders it an important point of observation, 
 whence the situation of many other buildings of the antient 
 city may be ascertained. 
 
 Leaving the Theseum, we again visited the Areopagus ; and 
 we detached from the rock some specimens of the remark- 
 able aggregate whereof this eminence consists. All the 
 lower part of it, as before mentioned, consists of breccia ; 
 but we found here a sparry carbonate of lime, of a honey 
 colour, exhibiting, by fracture, imperfect prisms ranged 
 parallel to each other. From the Areopagus we proceeded 
 to a little chapel, situated upon the spot where the antient 
 PiryEean Gate of the city formerly stood : near to this, as piraeanGate. 
 Pausanias relates 5 , there was a tomb with an equestrian statue 
 by Praxiteles. The place where the gate w r as situated may still 
 be discerned ; and also a part of the northern limb of the 
 " long legs," puKgu cxixvi, extending from the city to the sea. 
 We then ascended towards the north of the Pirceean Gate 6 , 
 where may still be seen, in a state of the most admirable 
 
 preser- 
 
 (4) The arrival of Cimon with the bones of Theseus happened in the same year as 
 the birth of Socrates ; that is to say, in the fourth year of the 77th Olympiad, 469 years 
 before Christ, according to Corsini. iEschylus and Sophocles then disputed the prize 
 of Tragedy, which was adjudged to Sophocles. (Fid. Chronicon ex Marmoribus 
 Aru tide Harris, Epoch. 57 .) If we allow, therefore, ten years for the building of the 
 temple, (and Jive has been considered a sufficient number,) this edifice has stood nearly 
 twenty-three centuries. 
 
 (5) Pausania- Attica, c. 2. p. 6. Lips. l6g6. 
 
 (6) See the Plan of Athens, engraved as a Vignette to Chap. XII. Nos. 1, and 2. 
 
Kf IfllJ >| 
 
 !»n?7">7< 
 
 
 540 
 
 ATHEN S. 
 
 preservation, the ground-plot and entire form of the Pjsyx, 
 or antient place of parlement of the Athenians ; as 
 it was appropriated by Solon to the assemblies of the 
 citizens 1 . This structure is not likely to be much affected 
 by the lapse of entire centuries : almost the whole of it, 
 even to the pulpitum for the orators, which yet remains, 
 is an excavation of the rock; and the several parts of 
 it were carved in stone, of one solid mass, with the 
 exception only of the semicircular area, the farthest part 
 of which from the pulpitum consists of masonry 2 . In 
 the perpendicular surface of the rock, facing this area, 
 are niches for the votive tablets ; the characteristic and 
 most genuine marks of places held in any peculiar 
 
 degree 
 
 (1) Tivvt,, so called cid to TrtTrvtcvmaQai roir Xcdoaj. 
 
 (2) That this place was really the Pnyx, is now universally the opinion of travellers 
 who have visited Athens. It had been called Areopagus and Odeum. Chandler was 
 the first by whom it was accurately described. The altar and stone pulpit, which he 
 mentions, agree with its furniture as upon record. Chandler says these have been 
 removed j but the pulpit, if not the altar, certainly remains. A more attentive examina- 
 tion of the antiquities of Athens, if it effect no change as to the name now given to this 
 place, will very probably alter the appellations too hastily bestowed upon some of the 
 others. Perhaps the Pnyx may be considered as better ascertained than almost any 
 remaining structure destitute of an inscription whereby it maybe identified ; and for 
 this, the literary world is mainly indebted to the Earl of Aberdeen, who carried on a 
 very extensive examination of the spot, sparing no expense during an excavation which 
 he made here, to have this point determined. The dona votiva which he discovered are 
 very remarkable. (See the Extract from Mr. JValpoles Journal, p. 403 of this Vol.) 
 But the site of the Odeum of Pericles is entirely unknown. It must have 
 stood at the termination of the street of the Tripods. The situation of the 
 Prytaneum remains also to be determined ; and it cannot be said that our evidence for 
 identifying the three great buildings, the Temple of Jupiter Olympius, the Theatre 
 of Regilla, and the Theatre of Bacchus, with the remains which severally bear either 
 of these appellations, is altogether satisfactory. There is much to be done by future 
 travellers ; and the excavations which they may make, by bringing to light many 
 valuable documents, will greatly tend to illustrate the topography of the city. 
 

 ATHENS. 
 
 541 
 
 degree of consideration throughout the whole of Antient chap, xiii. 
 Greece, and in every country where her colonies ex- 
 tended. To approach the spot once dignified by the 
 presence of the greatest Grecian orators ; to set our feet 
 where they stood ; and actually to behold the place 
 where Demosthenes addressed the " Men of Athens," 
 calling to mind the most memorable examples of his 
 eloquence ; is a gratification of an exalted nature. But the 
 feelings excited in viewing the Pnyx peculiarly affect the 
 hearts of Englishmen : that holy fire, so much dreaded by 
 the Athenian tyrants, and which this place had such a 
 remarkable tendency to agitate, burns yet in Britain : it is 
 the very soul of her liberties ; and it strengthens the 
 security of her laws ; giving eloquence to her senate, 
 heroism to her arms, extension to her commerce, and freedom 
 to her people : although annihilated in almost every country 
 of the earth, it lives in England ; and its extinction there, 
 like the going out of the sacred flame in the Temple 
 of Delphi, would be felt as a national calamity. The 
 circumstances connected with the history of the Pnyx prove 
 how difficult a thing it was to subdue the love of freedom 
 among the Antient Grecians. The Athenian tyrants vainly 
 imagined that it originated solely in the position of the 
 fijjtcct, or stone pulpit, whence the orators harangued the 
 people ; forgetting that it is a natural principle implanted by 
 providence in the human heart. Under the notion they had 
 thus conceived, they altered the plan of the Pnyx : the /8^a 
 had been fronted towards the sea ; they fronted it towards 
 the land ; believing that a people diverted from allusions to 
 
 maritime 
 
P*T I sv*i*^»: 
 
 BUM HR0S 
 
 542 
 
 CHAP. XIII. 
 
 ATHENS. 
 
 maritime affairs towards those of agricultural labour would 
 be more easy under an oligarchical dominion 1 . The project 
 was not attended with the consequences that were expected ; 
 the same spirit yet prevailed: but this place was still 
 considered as its source ; and at last, rinding that alterations 
 of the structure availed nothing towards its dissolution, the 
 meetings in the Pnyx were entirely abolished. The place 
 itself has, however, been suffered to remain unaltered to the 
 present day, and may serve to illustrate passages in antient 
 authors which before were but imperfectly understood. 
 A very accurate design of the structure, as it now exists, 
 has been already published by Stuart, in which the /3^« 
 is represented : and if it were possible to naturalize this 
 word, it might be preferable to any other, as applied to the 
 pulpit, whence the Grecian orators addressed the people. 
 Rostrum is a Roman appellation, and introduces associations 
 of a foreign nature: the same remark applies to Tribunal: 
 Logdum, and Thymele, are terms borrowed from the Grecian 
 theatres : it is Berna only which, upon the authority of 
 Plutarch, confines the name, and fixes the attention, accu- 
 rately and exclusively, upon the throne of Grecian eloquence. 
 Here we find the object itself within the Pnyx, fronted 
 towards the city and the plain, exactly as it was left by 
 the Athenian Tyrants. The altar is also seen ; forcibly 
 
 illustrating, 
 
 (l) Ato Kal to (St}/j.a to iv TIvvkI TTETrottj/xiyov uvt cvroj3\eweiv irpoK t>)v OdXaacrav, 
 vaTtpov ol TpiaKovTa -pos Ti)v ^upav UTrtarptxpav , oiopLtvoi ti)v pip Kurd dclXarrav 
 dp^tjy, ytvsaiv avai 3i)p.0KpctTias, oXiyapviai. S 1 ^ttov cvoxipuivuv tov<; ytupyovvrac. 
 Plutarch, in Theraist. p. 268. torn. I. Lond. 172Q. 
 
A T H E N $. 
 
 543 
 
 illustrating, at this hour, the following passage of the 
 comic poet: 
 
 ' Ocrng zga.ru vvv rov XfOov rov v ryji Tlvvxi. 
 
 From this illustrious memorial of Athenian history, 
 we descended once more to the Coele, or hollow ivay, of 
 Pausanias ; and, crossing the road from the Pirceeus, passed 
 the Cryptai of the Hill of Muscens, and ascended to the 
 Monument of Phijlopappus, standing upon its summit 2 . 
 There is no account of this structure by any antient author, 
 if we except Pausanias ; who merely says of it 3 , that in the 
 place where Musceus was buried a monument was afterwards 
 erected, uvdg) 'Svgu, without adding a syllable as to his name 
 or history ; which is remarkable, considering the attention 
 usually bestowed by him upon objects much less worthy 
 of regard. It is within the walls of the antient, although 
 at some distance from those of the modern city 4 ; and the 
 view from hence of the Citadel of Athens, the Sinus Saronicus, 
 and the neighbouring territories, is very striking. Looking 
 towards the sea, the eye commands the ports of the Piraeus, 
 Munychia, and Phalerus ; the isles of Salamis and JEgina ; 
 and the mountains of Peloponnesus, as far as the Gulph of 
 Argos. The frequent mention of it by other travellers 5 , 
 added to the beautiful views of its several parts engraved 
 for Stuart's "Antiquities of Athens 6 ,'' render any descriptive 
 detail unnecessary. It is supposed, from the inscriptions 
 
 upon 
 
 (2) See the Plan of Athens, as a Vignette to Chap. XII. No. 4. 
 
 (3) Pausaniae Attica, c. 26. p. 6l. Lips. \6gQ. 
 
 (4) See the Plan ; Vignette to the preceding Chapter. 
 
 (5) See Wheler, Spon, Le Roy, Stuart, Chandler, &c. &c. 
 
 (6) Vol. III. chap. 5. Plates 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11. Lond. 1794. 
 
 CHAP. XIII. 
 
 Monument of 
 the Museum. 
 

 
 544 
 
 CHAP. XIII. 
 
 ATHENS. 
 
 upon it 1 , that it was erected in the beginning of the second 
 century. Stuart, in opposition to Wheler and Spon, believed 
 it to have been raised, not in memory of a single individual 2 , 
 but " in honour of the last king of Commagene, and more 
 than one of his descendants." It originally consisted of 
 three compartments between four Corinthian pilasters ; that 
 is to say, of an arched recess, containing a central sitting 
 figure, and having a square niche on each side of it. Below 
 these appeared three superb sculptures in relief; that in the 
 centre, beneath the sitting statue, exhibits Trajan in a car 
 drawn by four horses, as he is represented on many monuments 
 of the triumphs of that emperor; and his figure here corre- 
 sponds with the image of him which is preserved upon the 
 arch of Beneventum in Italy. On either side, in square com- 
 partments, were seen the attendants preceding and following 
 the triumphal car. Of this superb structure, all that now 
 remains is exhibited by the annexed engraving 3 . When Stuart 
 visited Athens, it was not more perfect than it is now : but 
 he was fortunate enough to discover, at the bottom of the 
 hill, two statues that had stood erect, in Roman habits; and 
 these, being exactly in the same style of workmanship 
 with the sculptures still remaining on the monument, he 
 
 supposed 
 
 (1) Under the figure in the left niche : 
 
 B A 21 A EY2ANTIOX02BAXI AEftS ANTIOXOT 
 Under the figure in the middle niche : 
 
 OlAOnAnnOSEITOANOYXBHSAIEYS 
 Upon the pilaster between these niches : 
 C • IVLIVS • CF • FABIA • ANTIOCHVS • PHILOF VPPVS • COS ■ FRATER 
 ARVALIS • ALLECTVS • INTER • PRAETORIOS • AB • IMP- CAESARE • NER7A 
 TRAIANO • OPTIMO • AVGVSTO- GERMANICO ■ DACICO 
 
 See Stuart's Athens, vol. III. c. i. 
 
 (2) Ibid. p. 36, (3) From a drawing made upon the spot by Preaux, in 180G 
 
WW«if!*ilWP>J^>v 
 
ATHENS. 
 
 545 
 
 supposed to have stood above the two central pilasters 5 . 
 But if this be true, there were probably two other 
 figures above the remaining pilasters at the sides, to 
 complete the symmetry of the work ; which might thus 
 admit of easy restoration from the hand of an artist 
 willing to represent the whole of this most stately monu- 
 ment as it originally appeared. The statues mentioned by 
 Stuart disappeared about thirty years after he left Athens 4 . 
 
 Descending from the Museum, we observed some remains 
 of the antient walls of the city upon its southern side, 
 and of the entrance from Phalerum*. The vestiges of these 
 walls also appear extending towards the Monument of 
 Philopappus, which they inclosed; thence they bore off 
 towards the Pirzeean Gate, in a line of direction almost due 
 north and south 6 . Afterwards, crossing the plain, we visited 
 the Theatre and Cave of Bacchus ; and some substructions 
 were shewn to us by Signor Lusieri, which he conceived to be 
 the foundations of a temple dedicated also to the same Deity. 
 Nothing exists now of the theatre, excepting the circular 
 sweep for the seats, as in the earliest ages of dramatic 
 representation it was universally formed, by scooping 
 the sloping side of a rock 7 . But how majestic, and how 
 perfect in its preservation, rises the Choragic Monument of 
 Thrasyllus above this theatre 8 ! and how sublime the whole 
 
 groupe 
 
 (3) See Stuart's Athens, p. 36. 
 
 (4) In 1/85. See Stuart's Athens, vol. III. p. 36, Note (a). 
 
 (5) See the Plan, Vignette to Chap. XII. 
 
 (6) See the Plan, No. ]i). (7) Ibid. No. 16. 
 
 (8) See the Plan, No. 14. The best representation of it is in Le Roy (" Ruines 
 de la Grece," PL 8. Paris, 1/5S) ; now the more valuable, as the monument, in its 
 present mutilated state, no longer exhibits the appearance it then presented. 
 
 VOL. III. 4 A 
 
 CHAP xiir. 
 
 AntientWalls. 
 
 Tlieatre and 
 Cave of 
 Bacchus. 
 
 Monument of 
 77irasyllus. 
 
546 
 
 ATHENS. 
 
 chap, xiii. groupe of objects with which it was associated at the time of 
 our visit, and before the work of dilapidation had commenced 
 — the antient sun-dial ; the statue of the God ; the pillars for 
 the tripods ' ; the majestic Citadel ! The last of these has 
 indeed defied the desolating ravages of Barbaric power ; but 
 who shall again behold the other objects in this affecting 
 scene as they then appeared ? or in what distant country, 
 and obscure retreat, may we look for their mutilated frag- 
 ments > Often as these monuments had been described, we 
 observed some things which perhaps have not been before 
 noticed. This part of the rock of the Acropolis consists of 
 a hard red breccia, similar to that which was observed at 
 the Areopagus. Towards the left of the Monument of 
 Thrasyllus the surface of the stone has been planed per- 
 pendicularly; and here, beneath the two Choragic Pillars, 
 we saw, upon the rock, an Inscription alluded to, but 
 not copied, by Stuart 3 , and mentioned by no other writer. 
 It extends in two parts, which may have belonged to two 
 separate legends, one above the other; but the characters 
 are alike in both, and they are deeply engraven in the stone, 
 after the manner of those Inscriptions which we discovered 
 at Jerusalem, over the doors of the tombs in Mount 
 Sion 3 . The only letters sufficiently perfect to be legible 
 are the following ; but the termination of the upper line 
 could not be ascertained, and this line was remarkably 
 
 separated 
 
 Remarkable 
 Inscription. 
 
 (1) See the Plan, No. 13. 
 
 (2) Antiq. of Athens, vol.11, p. 7. Lond. 1787. Stuart wrote ANE0H IAN for 
 ANE0E2AN. 
 
 (3) See Section I. of Part II. of these Travels, p. 556, Broxb. 1812. 
 
 HWaU 
 
ATHENS. 547 
 
 separated from the lower part of the inscription by a natural t CHAP ; xin ; 
 or artificial linear cavity in the stone : 
 
 AHEIIWNI ANOZAAI ... 
 
 TPinOCANEGECAN 
 
 In its very imperfect state it must be left to the conjectures 
 of the learned 4 . The importance of its situation, and the cir- 
 cumstance of its never having been published before, certainly 
 entitles it to the Reader's notice. As to its interpretation, it 
 evidently refers to the erection of tripods : this appears both 
 from the words of the inscription, and from its contiguity to 
 the Choragic Pillars. The name Pisonianus seems to occur 
 before A«< ; and these letters may have reference to the word 
 Auifjuun, in one of its cases. Bacchus bears the title of Daemon 
 throughout the Bacchce of Euripides 5 . With regard to the 
 Crypt which is behind the Monument of Thrasyllus, by origin of 
 
 the Crypt. 
 
 some called the Cave of Bacchus, and now a Greek chapel 
 bearing the appellation of Panagia Spiliotissa, or the Blessed 
 Lady of the Grotto, it is decidedly mentioned by Pausanias ; 
 and his allusion to it, added to the description which he 
 gives of its situation, serve to identify the Theatre. He 
 says it contained a tripod, with the figures of Apollo and 
 Diana, represented as destroying the children of Niobe*. 
 
 But 
 
 (4) Tpirrof; is found in Hesychius. The use of the verb dvsdEcrav occurs thus in 
 Lucian : 'Y\ac dwErifiovTo, KCtl oprj dvedecrav, ical opvea KaQilpaaav, ical rd (j>vrd 
 i>7rc<j>t'}iu.i<rav cxac-vy Qau' Montes dedicarunt, vel consecrdrunt, unicuique Deo. 
 
 (5) 'O haiftuv, 6 AtoV wait. \\4\J. top Sainov tlatyipuv viov. V. 256. fdvevra 
 6yt)Totc hai^iova. v. 42. h[i§avi)<; cai/nuv fiporow. v. 11.{Camb. 1694.) K.r.X. The Greek 
 Writers, and especially the Poets, use the word kaifxav as applied to a God, or Goddess. 
 
 (6) En ae thi koptohi tot ©eatpot, Siihaaion estin en tais iietpais 'tiio thn 
 
 AKPOnOAIN. Tpt7T0VC Si CTTtan KCtl TOVTU. 'AffoWuV $E tV aVTip Kal ' ApTEjUlS TOVq 
 
 Tra'tZac titrlv dvaipovvrtr rove Nidfirjc. Pausaniae Attica, c. 21. p. 49. Lips. l6g6. 
 
vf?- ^ wrv \ r . », wwipwaw ^^mft ^W" 1 * y i> y» " ? ' yy i y iiqw 
 
 ■HBHMMMnMMHMHHHjjHlN wis**-,"* «iC>ancsv 
 
 548 
 
 CHAP. XIII. 
 
 ATHENS. 
 
 But its mere antient history may possibly refer to an 
 earlier period than that of the choragic games of the 
 Athenians, and to customs which existed in Attica lona; 
 before the institution of the Dionysia. That it ought 
 not to have been considered as necessarily associated with 
 the structure now placed before it, seems to be evident 
 from the circumstance of the entrance being closed 
 when the building was added. In the inscription, upon 
 the middle of the architrave and immediately over the 
 central pilaster of the monument, no mention is made 
 of the grotto : the legend appears to refer only to the 
 structure whereon it is inscribed 1 . From this it may be 
 conjectured, that the cave was one of the most antient 
 sepulchral crypto? of the first settlers upon this rock : 
 there are many other of a similar nature, fronting the 
 Phalerum in the approach to Athens; and in the lull of 
 Musceus. It is precisely in the situation where such caves 
 were often constructed for sepulchral purposes, by the earliest 
 Grecian colonies, and by the inhabitants of all the eastern 
 shores of the Mediterranean ; that is to say, upon the outside 
 and beneath the walls of the Acropolis; being hollowed in 
 the rocks upon which their citadels were erected. Instances 
 of this custom have been mentioned more than once in the 
 former parts of this work . Here we were gratified by find- 
 ing the Ice-plant {Mesemhry anthem um crystallbium, Linn.) 
 
 sprouting 
 
 
 (1) See Chandler's Trav. in Greece, p. 63. Oxf. \7"j6. 
 
 (2) See Part I. of these Travels, Chap. XX. p. 205. Third edit. 
 
ATHENS. 
 
 549 
 
 sprouting luxuriantly, in its wild and native state, among chap , xih. 
 the ruins: it was now in seed 3 ; and we collected the ice Plant. 
 capsules to send to England 4 . This was the only spot in all 
 Greece where we remarked this plant. The observations of 
 former travellers prove it to be an Athenian plant 5 ; yet it 
 had been transported to England, and was cultivated there 
 so early as the beginning of the last century 6 . 
 
 On the following day we set out to visit those prodigious 
 columns, which, owing to their magnitude and situation, 
 are almost everywhere in view, bearing traditionally the 
 name of Hadrian s Pillars. In our w r ay thither, we 
 passed beneath an arch which conducted from the old city Archof 
 
 Hadrian. 
 
 of Theseus to the New Athens built by Hadrian ; upon 
 which the several appellations of Porta Hadriani, Arch of 
 Theseus, and Arch of JEgeus, have been bestowed 7 . Its 
 situation with respect to the walls of the antient city, 
 and the obliquity of its position with regard to the 
 peribolus which inclosed the plane of Hadrian s Pillars, 
 seems to authorise an objection, already urged 8 , against the 
 notion of its having been originally a gate. Le Roy's view 
 
 of 
 
 (3) October 30. 
 
 (4) We collected many rare plants in the neighbourhood of Athens ; but the 
 specimens were destroyed in their passage home, by the wreck of the Princessa 
 merchantman, off Beachy Head. 
 
 (5) It was found near to Athens, by John Sibthorpe, M. D. Professor of Botany at 
 Oxford. 
 
 (6) In 1727, according to Bradley. See Martyn's edit, of Miller's Diet. Loud. 1 807. 
 
 (7) See Wheler, Spon, Le Roy, Stuart, Cnandler, 8cc. fcc. See also the Plan, 
 Vignette to Chap. XII. No. 18. 
 
 (8) Stuart's Antiq. of Athens, as above cited. 
 

 550 
 
 CHAP. XIII. 
 
 Its origin. 
 
 ATHEN S. 
 
 of it 1 is much finer, as to general effect, than that 
 which Stuart has given 9 , and exhibits more of the 
 grandeur of the original. The stones are put together 
 without cement ; but the work is adorned with a row of 
 Corinthian pilasters and columns, with bases supporting an 
 upper tier in the same style of architecture, thereby 
 denoting a mode of building more characteristic of the 
 age of Hadrian than of any earlier period in Athenian 
 history. In the endeavours which have been made to 
 trace its origin, and to ascertain its antiquity, it is some- 
 what strange that no one has stated, what the first view 
 of it seems to suggest as the most probable opinion con- 
 cerning this structure ; namely, that it was a triumphal 
 arch, erected in honour of Hadrian upon his coming to 
 Athens. Stuart has observed 5 , that " it appears evidently 
 not to have been connected with, or to have made a part 
 of, any other building, but to have been originally intended 
 to remain insulated." He also considers the inscriptions 
 upon the two sides of it " as a complimentary effusion 
 of gratitude to a liberal benefactor;" and yet he has 
 been induced, by the forced construction of a passage in 
 Plutarch, to believe this building to be the Arch of JEgeus, 
 rebuilt by the Roman Emperor. If this had been the 
 case, and if Hadrian, as he supposes, had really restored 
 
 a venerable 
 
 (1) Les Ruines des plus beaux Monumens de la Grece, PI. 21. Paris, 17$7- 
 
 (2) Antiq. of Athens, vol. III. c. 3. PI. 1. Lond. 1794. 
 
 (3) Ibid. p. 20. 
 
ATHENS. 
 
 551 
 
 a venerable fabric owing to any regard for the consideration F^ xm / 
 in which its original founder was held, he would not surely 
 have opposed his own fame to that of Theseus, as we find 
 it to be vaunted in the two inscriptions upon the arch 4 . It 
 seems more reasonable to suppose that these inscriptions 
 were placed by the Athenians upon a triumphal arch 
 erected in honour of Hadrian, as adulatory testimonies of 
 their regard for a patron to whose munificence their city 
 was so much indebted, and as the highest compliment they 
 could bestow. That Hadrian coveted the thanks and praises 
 of dependent states ; that he sought to be so rewarded for the 
 favours he conferred upon them ; seems to be evident from 
 one of his epistles alluding to the acknowledgments made by 
 the people of Alexandria for his bounty to their city, and 
 already cited in a former part of this work 5 . The form and 
 style of the structure also agrees with this opinion of its 
 origin ; for it resembles the usual form of the triumphal 
 arches raised in honour of the Roman Emperors 6 . It is 
 
 built 
 
 (4) On the south-eastern side, towards the Acropolis : 
 
 AIAEIIA0HNAI0H2EftIHnPINnOAI2 
 
 Hce sunt istce Athence Thesei quondam urbs. 
 On the north-western side, towards the Temple of Jupiter Olympius : 
 
 AIAEI2AAPIANOYKOYXI0E2Eft2IIOAI2 
 Hce sunt istce Athence Hadriani, et nequaquam Thesei urbs. 
 
 (5) See Chap. VII. p. 264. of this Vol. 
 
 (6) The first specimen of Grecian architecture erected in Great Britain was 
 modelled from this arch j and the remains of the copy, although offering a paltry 
 imitation, and upon an insignificant scale, may still be seen in the University of 
 Cambridge. It is the southern front of the gate of Caius College, facing the Senate 
 House and Public Library ; erected in 1557, by John Caius, M.D. after designs by John 
 of Padua. 
 

 ■tf»,*»i»j e*;j*rj»a: ^^^^H >x-si*CBJ« >ws*>< Wit* f-^.v.*»c 
 
 When erected. 
 
 ATHENS. 
 
 built entirely of Pentelicaji marble ; nor was tbis magni- 
 ficence inconsistent with the materials commonly used 
 in constructing triumphal arches. The arches of Romulus, 
 it is true, were of brick; and that of Camillus was of plain 
 square stone ; but those of Ccesar, Drusus, Titus, Trajan, 
 and Gordian, were, like this of Hadrian, entirely of 
 marble. In addition it may be urged, that trophies of this 
 kind were unknown in Greece before the time of the 
 Roman Emperors. The mere circumstance of its form is 
 therefore almost decisive as to its origin ; for the practice of 
 erecting arches, as monuments of noble enterprises, and in 
 honour of distinguished personages, was not a Grecian but a 
 Roman custom. Its proper appellation seems therefore to be 
 that, which tradition, supported by the evidence of an 
 inscription upon its south-eastern side, has long assigned to 
 it; namely, the Arch op Hadrian': and the occasion of its 
 erection will be found in the remarkable event of Hadrians 
 return to Athens for the consecration of the identical 
 temple to which this arch conducted : this happened early 
 in the second century 1 . Three years only had elapsed since 
 the Emperor entered into the priesthood of the Elcusinian 
 Ceres; an event which was distinguished by the martyrdom of 
 many Athenian Christians, with Publius their bishop 2 . The 
 Heathens were therefore animated by every emotion of 
 religious zeal, and by every sentiment of gratitude, to 
 receive with all the honours of triumph the patron who had 
 
 restored 
 
 (1) A.D. 128. 
 
 (2) A.D. 125. 
 

 ATHENS. 
 
 553 
 
 restored the temples of their Gods ; the champion who had chap, m. 
 trodden down the enemies of their faith 5 . IF ever, in the 
 history of the world, there was a time, when it was 
 peculiarly appropriate that a triumph should be decreed, it 
 was at this period, and upon this occasion. The antient 
 city seemed to revive with more than pristine splendor 
 from its ruins : ever since the age of Diccearchus, its condition 
 had been described as so wretched, that foreigners, upon 
 the first sight of it, would scarcely believe they beheld 
 what once had been so renowned a city 4 : but a new Athens 
 had arisen under the auspices of the Emperor. Magnificent 
 temples, stately shrines, unsullied altars, awaited the bene- 
 diction of the sacerdotal monarch ; and • it would indeed 
 have been marvellous if the Athenians, naturally prone to 
 adulation, neglected to bestow it upon a benefactor so well 
 disposed for its reception. The triumphal arch was of 
 course prepared ; and lasting characters, thereon inscribed, 
 have proclaimed to succeeding ages that " the Athens of 
 Hadrian had eclipsed the city of Theseus." 
 
 We now advanced towards the stupendous pillars which 
 also bear the name of that emperor ; and a much more 
 difficult task would remain, if we should undertake to 
 develope the circumstances of their history. According to 
 the routine of objects as they were observed by Pausanias, 
 
 on 
 
 (3) Upon his return to Athens, Hadrian presided as magistrate at the celebration of 
 the Dionysia, and wore the Athenian dress. He also gave to the Athenians the island 
 Cephallenia. Fid. Din. Cass, in Fit. Hadrian. 
 
 (4) ' KniarrjQdj) <T dv i^ai^yrji: vtto tu>v £tvav deupoi/fityi], ft avrtj ecttiv »/ rrpoff- 
 etyopevofiivrj tuv 'Adrjyaiuv ttoXu. ' Dicaearchi Status Graeciae, p. 8. Oxon. 1703. 
 
 VOL. HI. 4 JB 
 
BERG SB6B -■'•.»' V:-.',*:.-' ^BK ^B^B 
 
 
 
 554 
 
 CHAP. XIII. 
 
 Temple of 
 
 Jupiter 
 
 Olympius. 
 
 ATHENS. 
 
 on this side of the city, the hundred and twenty pillars of 
 Phrygian marble, erected by Hadrian, were in this situation ; 
 that is to say, south-eastward of the Acropolis 1 . Sixteen 
 columns of white marble, each six feet in diameter, and 
 nearly sixty feet in height, now remain standing ; all of 
 the Corinthian order, beautifully fluted, and of the most 
 exquisite workmanship 2 . But, by the appearance of the plane 
 upon which the columns stand, Wheler was induced to 
 believe that there were originally six rows of pillars, and 
 twenty in each row, which would complete the number 
 mentioned by Pausanias 3 . Chandler and Stuart are the 
 first authors who have described the Columns of Hadrian as 
 the remains of the Temple of Jupiter Olympius*. Le Roy 
 considered them as a part of the Pantheon"; a name bestowed 
 
 occasionally, 
 
 (1) Ta tc iTTi^aviaTara, ckcxtov e'tKom Kioves Q)pvyiov \fflov. Pausan. Attica, 
 p. 43. Lips. I696. 
 
 (2) Such is their inordinate size, when compared with the relative proportion of 
 any other architectural pillars to natural objects, that in every representation of them 
 hitherto engraven, where figures of living beings have been introduced by the artist to 
 afford a scale for their dimensions, the design has been frustrated by the reluctance of 
 the engraver to represent these figures sufficiently diminutive. This has been the case 
 in the annexed Plates ; for, unable to conceive the existence of columns of such mag- 
 nitude that a man of ordinary stature may remain concealed within any of the canelures, 
 some addition, as usual, has been made by the engraver to the size of the figures, 
 and the apparent magnitude of the architecture has been thereby diminished. The 
 original drawings were not wholly without this defect ; but it is more visible in the 
 engraved copies. 
 
 (3) " Which, therefore, must be that hundred and twenty, Pausanias speaketh of, 
 as built by the Emperor Hadrian of Phrygian marble, being whiter than that of 
 Pentelycus." Journey into Greece, BookV. p. 371. Lond. 1682. 
 
 (4) See Trav. in Greece, vol. II. p. /4. Oxf.17/6. Also Antiq. of Athens, vol. III. 
 p. 11. Lond. 1794. 
 
 (5) Les Ruines des plus beaux Monumens de la Grece, PL 22. p. 35. Paris, 1758. 
 Le Roy's View of the Ruin is perhaps the finest in that magnificent work. 
 
ATHENS. 
 
 555 
 
 CHVP.X1II. 
 
 occasionally, by different travellers, upon almost every 
 building in Athens, whether in the upper or in the ^^T 
 lower city. Thcodosius Zygomalas, author of the Letter to j^J"^ 
 Martin Crusius, published in 1583, mentions the Parthenon 6 
 under this last appellation. Guilletiere affirms positively, 
 that the principal mosque in the lower city was the 
 Pantheon 1 , and afterwards describes it as superior to that of 
 Rome. A recent traveller 8 applies the name, and with more 
 reason, to an edifice described by Stuart as the Poikile 9 , and 
 by Wheleras the Olympicum' . In this imperfect state of 
 our knowledge with regard to the real history of these 
 pillars, as of many other antiquities in Athens, the author 
 would leave the question to be decided by subse- 
 quent investigation, and by the discoveries which the 
 
 excavations 
 
 (6) This circumstance is alluded to by Spon, {Voyage de Grece, &c. torn. II. p. 37. 
 d, la Haye, 1 /24.) but it may have originated in an error of the transcriber of Zygomalas's 
 Letter, or in an error of the Press ; TrdvQzov being written for napQwuv. The words are : 
 " To irdvBaov: oiKoZop.rjv, viKuoav wdacK: oiKoSo/j.d<:: yXi/^rwc CKros Sid nd<n]<; rrjg oiko- 
 Co/Atjc e-^ovadv rd<; Icrropia^'EWijytoy : Kal ravra, r«c dfiac. Ipsum Panthen.m : quod 
 est aedificium, aliis omnibus excellentius : in quo extra circumquaque historiae Grae- 
 corum sculptae sunt, et quidem divinae." (Fid. Turco-Grcecice, lib. vii. p. 430. 
 Basil. 1583.) The author is here evidently describing the Parthenon; and, as he after- 
 wards mentions the horses of Praxiteles, " awdvu rij<; fitydXrii; ttA>/c (supra magnam 
 portam)," it is not very probable that he believed the building to be the Pantheon 
 of Hadrian ; unless indeed he alluded to the horses which were on each side of the 
 Propylcea. 
 
 (7) " II y a trois mosquees a Athenes : une dans le chasteau, qui est l'incomparable 
 temple de Minerve ; et deux dans la ville, dont la principale est le fameux Pantheon, 
 qu' Adrian y fit bastir." Voyage d'Athenes, p. 156. Paris, 1675. 
 
 (8) Mr. Wilkins. See the Plan engraved for the Work about to be published by 
 Mr. Walpole, on Parts of Greece, Asia, and Egypt, from the MS. Journals of Travellers 
 in the Levant. 
 
 (9) Antiq. of Athens, vol.1, c. 5. p. 37. Lond. 1762. 
 
 (10) Journey into Greece, Book V. p. 392. Lond. 1682. 
 
I 
 
 ^^^H ^^^H 
 
 •!*>.^-*>.,-»;-.;-*>...vW,v.'frT.-;.-.» 
 
 H9 
 
 556 
 
 ATHENS. 
 
 CHAP.xm^ excavations of future travellers may bring to light, were 
 
 ?h?NamI° r ** not ^ or tne recent observations upon this subject by 
 assigned to n. tne Earl of Aberdeen 1 , added to the plan of this 
 
 mighty structure as afforded both by Chandler 2 and bv 
 Stuart 3 from their own personal observations ; which seem 
 to place the history of the building beyond a doubt, and 
 prove it to have been the Temple of Jupiter Olympius, 
 constructed with double rows of columns, ten in front, and 
 twenty-one in flank, amounting in all to one hundred and 
 twenty-four ; the extent of the front being one hundred and 
 seventy-one feet, and the length of the flank more than four 
 hundred : of w T hich sumptuous and stately temple, these 
 pillars are the majestic ruin. The area, or peribolus, within 
 which it stood, was four stadia in circumference. " Rome," 
 says Chandler 4 , " afforded no example of this species of 
 building. It was one of the four marble edifices which had 
 raised to the pinnacle of renown the architects who planned 
 them*; men, it is said, admired in the assembly of the 
 Gods for their wisdom and excellence." Some of the 
 columns still support their architraves ; one of which, 
 being measured while we were in Athens, was found to 
 equal three feet in width ; and, although of one entire piece 
 of marble, it extended, in length, twenty-two feet six 
 
 inches. 
 
 (1) Introduction to Wilkins's Transl. of Vitruvius, p. 66. See also Note (1) to p. 9, 
 of the Text of that Work. Lond. 1812. 
 
 (2) Trav. in Greece, vol.11, c. 15. p. 74. Orf.\T]6. 
 
 (3) Antiq. of Athens, vol.111, c. 2. PI. 2. Lond. 1794. 
 
 (4) Trav. in Greece, as above cited. 
 
 (5) Antistates, Callaeschros, Antimachides, and Porinus, were the earlier architect 
 employed on this fabric. 
 

 —^ ^^^H 
 
ATHENS. 
 
 557 
 
 inches 5 . Upon the top of the entablature, on the western side chap.xiii. 
 of the principal groupe, is shewn the dwelling of a hermit, 
 who fixed his solitary abode upon this eminence, and 
 dedicated his life entirely to the contemplation of the 
 sublime objects by which his mansion was everywhere 
 surrounded. Seventeen of these pillars were standing in 
 1676: but a few years before Chandler arrived in Athens, 
 one was thrown down, for the purpose of building a 
 new mosque in the market-place. Such instances of dila- 
 pidation on the part of the Turks are fortunately very rare; 
 and we find that, in this instance, the damage done to 
 the remains of the temple was made a pretext for extorting 
 fifteen purses from the Governor of Athens ; a tax levied by 
 the Pasha of Negropont, as expressly stated, for the violence 
 committed by the Wahvode in overthrowing the pillar. 
 
 Descending from the area of the temple towards the iiumt. 
 Ilissus, we visited the fountain Callirhoe, sometimes called 
 Enneacrunus 1 . We observed niches in the rock, for the votive 
 offerings, where there had been a cascade : and hereabouts 
 were, in all probability, the altars of those Muses mentioned 
 by Pausanias, who were called Ilissiades. Afterwards, as we 
 
 examined 
 
 Fountain 
 Callirhoe. 
 
 , (6) What the feelings of the Athenians must have been upon the restoration of this 
 temple, may, in some degree, be collected from the following observations of Plutarch, 
 and of Diccearchus, concerning the edifice in its imperfect state, 'ft? yap ?; 7ro'X<f tu>v 
 Adtjvaioy to 'OXv/uttieiov, o'vtuc, t} TlXdruvos trotyLa Trjv'A.rXavTiKov iv 7roXXoi<; KaXols 
 fiovov 'ipyov drtXe<; err^Kev. {Plutarch, extremo Sulone.) Dicaearchus seems to have had 
 a foresight of its future splendor. He says: X)Xv/j.7rtoi', qfiirsXet jj.iv, Kardn-Xrj^ip 
 3' f^oj' rrjy Tt}<; oiKodofurjaeut; vnoypatyrjv' ytvdfxevov fr dv fitXricrrov, EI ZYNETE- 
 AE20H. Dicaearch. Descript. Graec. ap. Meurs. De Athenis Atticis. lib. i. c. 10. 
 
 (7) Vid. Meursii Ceramic. Gemin. c. 14. ap. Gronov. Thesaur. Graec. torn. IV. 
 p. 982. L. Bat. 16QQ. 
 

 558 
 
 CHAP. XIII. 
 
 False Notions 
 entertained of 
 the River. 
 
 ATHENS. 
 
 examined the channel of the river, for a considerable extent, 
 we found it to exhibit such evident traces of a powerful cur- 
 rent having worn away the solid substance of its rocky bed, 
 that we were convinced it could not formerly have been 
 characterized by the appearance it now exhibits ; namely, that 
 of an occasional torrent, sometimes dry throughout the entire 
 year. Chandler says, he visited it several times after snow had 
 fallen on the mountains, and after heavy rain ; but that he 
 never found even the surface of the channel to be covered 
 with water : it lodged only in the hollows of the stone, and 
 trickled from one cavity to another 1 . Yet we should 
 reluctantly conclude with that writer, that the Poets who 
 celebrated Ilissus " as a stream laving [the fields, cool and 
 lucid," either conceived or conveyed " a false idea of 
 this renowned water-course." Some other cause must be 
 assigned for the disagreement of their descriptions with the 
 real character which the river now bears. The earliest 
 traveller whose work we have cited seems to have found 
 no difficulty in accounting for the loss of the current, but, 
 soon after his arrival at Athens, distinctly states, that the 
 water of the Ilissus had been diverted and divided by an infinite 
 number of rivulets, cut on purpose to supply the fountains in 
 the gardens about the town 2 . In a former part of his work 
 he seems to insinuate that the current had also been carried 
 
 off 
 
 (1) Trav. in Greece, vol. II. p. 79- Oxf. 1776- 
 
 (2) " Le pont est soiitenu de trois arches; et au desscms est le canal ou passoit l'Missus 
 quand il estoit riviere, car aujourd'huy le , canal est sec ; V Missus a este diverty, et 
 partage en une infinite de rigoles, qui s'epanchent de coste et d'autre, pour aller faire des 
 jets d'eau dans les jardins des environs de la ville." Voyage d'Athenes, par De la 
 Guilletiere, p.263. Paris, 1675. 
 
 uiatiM 
 
ATHENS. 
 
 55$ 
 
 off for the use of the mills near to the city 3 ; and those who chap.xiii. 
 have visited Troas know very well that a channel thus diverted, 
 for a single Turkish mill, is sufficient to carry off a torrent 
 of water not less potent than was the stream of the Ilissus 4 . 
 In the simple narrative of Dela Guilletiere we have therefore 
 sufficient evidence to justify a conclusion, although in oppo- 
 sition to Chandler, that the antient writers by whom the 
 Ilissus is mentioned did not fall " into local absurdities and 
 untruths 5 " in their descriptions of that river: neither is 
 there any thing more justly reprehensible in literary matters, 
 than the very common propensity to depreciate the accuracy 
 of Poets and Historians, whenever a difficulty occurs in 
 reconciling their statements with existing appearances 6 . 
 
 From 
 
 (3) " Le Didascalos nous die, que e'estoit la faute des moulins,et que la riviere iV Missus 
 estoit prescntement coupee en tant de canaux, qu'elle ne pouvoit fournir assez d'eau pour 
 bien moudre le bled." Ibid. p. 236. 
 
 (4) See Gell's Topography of Troy, p. 48. Lond. 1804. 
 
 (5) See Chandler's Travels in Greece, vol. II. p. 7g. Oxf. 1776. 
 
 (6) Plato (in Phxd. torn. III. p. 229.) mentions the pure and limpid waters of the 
 Ilissus ; but as this passage of that author is expressly alluded to by Mr. Walpole, in his 
 MS. Journal, when writing upon the same subject, his observations will now be added, as 
 strongly supporting the opinion already given. " Neither wood nor water seem to have 
 abounded in Attica. I did not meet a stream of any magnitude (excepting the Cephissus) 
 in any part of it. Dio Chrysoslom says, there are not great mountains to be seen, nor 
 are there rivers flowing through the country, p.>jre 7ro~afiol ciacpeovrw, Orat. 6. 
 Athens itself was supplied with well-water; hence the number of antient wells we 
 observe cut in the rock about the city near Lycabettus. Pausanias (lib. i.), as well as 
 Plutarch in his life of Solon, makes mention of them. The exportation of wood and 
 pitch was forbidden by law, as we find from the Scholiast on a passage in the Knights of 
 Aristophanes. What the country afforded was required for the use of the navy. The 
 Lyceum and Cynosarges were, according to Dicaearchus, KardZevcpa, well wooded; 
 because, as places of public resort, they were much attended to ; but trees arc not now 
 to be found there. It would be as difficult to find the pure and limpid waters of the 
 Ilissus, Kadapd kcu cia<j>avn, which Plato mentions in the Pnaedrus ; there is never any 
 
 quantity 
 

 Stadium Pa- 
 nathenaicum. 
 
 ATHENS. 
 
 From the bed of the river—after visiting that part of it 
 where the marble bridge of three arches, mentioned by all 
 writers to the time of Stuart 1 , conducted across the limits' 
 to Agiue 2 , the scene of one of Plato's dialogues '-—we 
 ascended to view the remains of the Stadium Pana- 
 thenaicum, which was, in fact, a continuation of the 
 bridge ; for the latter was seventy feet wide, and conducted 
 immediately into the arena of the former. It has been 
 usual to say of this most wonderful of all the marvellous 
 works of Herodes Attkus\ that nothing now remains of its 
 former magnificence. To our eyes, every thing necessary 
 to impress the mind with an accurate idea of the object 
 itself, and of its grandeur, and of the prodigious nature 
 
 of 
 
 quantity of water in the river-bed. In former times, the channel was full. Besides the 
 
 passage from Plato, the following allusion of Cratinus to a famous orator suppoi is this 
 
 opinion : 
 
 Ye Gods, what a flow of words is here ! 
 
 Ilissus is in his throat : ''IXhtctoc ev rfj <pdpvyt. 
 
 and we know that the Pelasgi were accused of way-laying the Athenian women, when 
 
 they went from the city to draw water from the Ilissus." Walpole's MS. Journal. 
 
 (1) See the view of it in Stuart's Athens. The bridge no longer exists. 
 
 (2) &iaj3a<ri Ie tovWiXmkjqv, ywpiov"Aypai icaXovfitvov, k. t. X. Pausaniae Attica,, 
 C. 19. p. 45. Lips. I696. 
 
 (3) The Pheedrus; so called from one of the disciples of Socrates. 
 
 (4) It was originally constructed by Lycurgus ; but it was restored by Herodes, 
 whose real name, as given by Spon from an Athenian inscription, was Tiberius 
 Claudius Atlicus Herodes. He lavished upon it the most enormous sums, covering it 
 entirely with the white marble of Mount Pentelicus. Pausanias did not expect to be 
 credited, even in the brief description of this work, as thus given : To de, aKovaaat 
 uiv ovy 6fxoi(>>s iirayoiyov, Qavfia $' iSovat, ordfsiov earl Xevkov Xidov, p,Eyido<; ce 
 avrov rij^E civ r«c fidXtOTU TtKj.iaipot.TO. dvuQtv opo<; wrtp rov QiXiaaov dp~)(opitvov 
 
 IK flTJVOEUOVC KCcd)']KEl TOV TTOTCt/UOV TTpO£ Tt)V V^dfJV Evdtf TE K'Ot ( ITtXoVV' TOVTO UV1]p 
 
 ''Adrjvuioc; 'HptJEtjs uKocdpirjat, KCtl 01 to -noXv rrjc XiOoToplas rr}<; HevtIXticiv ic tijv 
 okotiopriv dvtjXudi]. Pausan. Attica, c. 19. pp. 45, 46. Lips. 1696". 
 
ATHENS. 
 
 of the work, seemed to exist as if it had been in its 
 perfect state. The marble covering of the seats, it is true, 
 no longer appears ; but the lines are visible of the different 
 ranges ; and perhaps a part of the covering itself might be 
 brought to light by a removal of the soil. The absence of 
 ornament is of little consequence as to the general effect : 
 the decorations of a Stadium, however costly in their nature, 
 may be easily imagined ; and if, instead of having ransacked 
 the quarries of Pcntdicus for its garniture, some more 
 precious material had been used, the superficial investment, 
 in so vast a theatre, would not materially have altered its 
 general appearance. The remains of Stadia still exist in 
 different parts of Greece ; but this of Athens surpasses, as 
 in the days of its splendor, every other in the world. 
 Its form is so perfect, that the spectator traversing the 
 arena between its sloping sides, towards the sweep at 
 its south-eastern extremity, almost imagines himself to be 
 transported to the age in which it was prepared for the 
 reception of its innumerable guests : and when seated 
 in the higher part of it, where people from all Attica, 
 ranged by thousands, could survey a still gathering multi- 
 tude, thronging eagerly toward the spot; every countenance 
 being animated by the greatness of the solemnity, and 
 every heart beating with the most impatient expectation ; 
 how affecting is the scene before him ! Nothing is 
 wanted to render it more impressive, but the actual presence 
 of the pomp itself — the noise of the chariots — the 
 prancing and the neighing of the horses — the sounds of 
 the music — the exhibition of the combatants — and the 
 vol. in. 4 c shouts 
 
 561 
 
 CHAP XIH. 
 

 562 
 
 CHAP. X1H. 
 
 Sepulchre of 
 Herodes. 
 
 ATHENS. 
 
 shouts of the people. Even the passages through which 
 ferocious animals 1 were conducted into the arena, and the 
 entrances and retreats for those who contested prizes, do 
 yet remain almost in their entire state. Nothing has been 
 removed or destroyed but the parts which were merely 
 ornamental ; and these are not missed in the general survey 
 of .a structure necessarily simple as to its form, but inex- 
 pressibly great and striking in its aspect : and this effect 
 is owing, not solely to its artificial character, but to the 
 grandeur of its appearance as a work of Nature; the. very 
 mountains having contributed to the operations of art 
 in its formation 2 . Such a combination may be often 
 observed in antient theatres of a semicircular form ; but 
 there is not, either in Hellas or in Asia Minor, an instance, 
 where the natural lineaments of the country have admitted of 
 a similar adaptation to the appropriate shape of the Grecian 
 Stadium. This splendid memorial of Attic splendor, and of the 
 renown of a private citizen of Athens, became ultimately his 
 funeral monument: and a very curious discovery may be 
 reserved for future travellers in the majestic sepulchre of 
 Herodes himself; who was here interred 3 with the highest 
 
 obsequies 
 
 (1) When Hadrian was in Athens, he presided at the Panathencea, and caused one 
 thousand wild beasts to be hunted in the Stadium, for the diversion of the people. 
 " Athenis vrille ferarum venationem in Stadio exhibuit." Spartianus, in ejus Vita, c. ]g. 
 
 (2) There is a very fine view of it, as engraved by Landseer from a drawing by 
 Reveley, in Stuart's Athens, vol. III. c. 7. PI. 3. Land. J 794. 
 
 (3) The funeral of Herodes Atticus must have afforded one of the most affecting 
 solemnities of which History makes mention. He was seventy-six years old when 
 he died : and in the instructions which he left for his interment, he desired to be 
 buried at Marathon, where he was born ; but the Athenians insisted upon possessing 
 his remains, and they caused the youth of their city to bear him to the Stadium 
 
 Payiathe- 
 
ATHENS. 5g3 
 
 obsequies and most distinguished honours a grateful people chap. xiii. 
 could possibly bestow upon the tomb of a benefactor, who 
 spared no expense for them while he was living, and every 
 individual of whom participated in his bounty at his death 4 . 
 A little eastward of the Stadium are the vestiges of the 
 Temple of Diana Agrcea. Having again crossed the Ilissus, 
 we observed, near to its northern bank, some remains 
 which Stuart and others have considered as those of the 
 Lyceum. Hence we proceeded toward the east, to ascend 
 Mount Anchesmus, and to enjoy in one panoramic" survey 
 the glorious prospect presented from its summit, of all the 
 antiquities and natural beauties in the Athenian Plain. At 
 the foot of this mount were the remains of a reservoir, con- 
 structed by Hadrian for the purpose of receiving water for 
 his new city, after being conveyed by a most expensive Hadrian's 
 
 Reservoir. 
 
 aqueduct, 
 
 Panathenaicum, which he had built ; all the people accompanying, and pouring forth 
 lamentations as for a deceased parent. 'AQr,valoi, roue ruv tyi'ifiav -ytpalv dpnd- 
 aavrei,, c<j aarv ijveyKav, vpoairavTuvrtc, ry X£^£t nana qXiKia, Satcpvou; dp.a, ical 
 tvftjpovpTec, ova iralces, yjpr](TTOv irarpos \rjpevaayTec. (Philostratus in ejus Vita, 
 Sophist, lil.'u. Lips.l/OQ.) What a subject for the pencil of a Raphael! Histo- 
 rical painters sometimes complain that every event in antient history has been already 
 handled : here is one, at least, to which this complaint is not applicable. 
 
 (4) He bequeathed to every Athenian a sum nearly equal to three pounds of our 
 money. 
 
 (5) Since the plan has been adopted in England of exhibiting the views of celebrated 
 cities by the sort of painting called Panorama, a hope has been excited that Athens 
 will one day become the subject of such a picture ; and for this purpose it is highly 
 probable that Mount Anchesmus will be made the point of observation. At the same 
 time, it is liable to this objection j that the grandeur of effect is always diminished in 
 proportion to the elevation of the spectator. The city makes, perhaps, a more striking 
 appearance in the road from Eleusis, immediately after leaving the defile of Daphne. 
 
■QBE ;£*£$'*!»•*$"'** - B^H |^Bb HHMH 
 
 564 
 
 ATHENS. 
 
 chap. xin. aqueduct, whose broken piers may be traced to the distance 
 of seven miles from the spot, in a north-easterly direction, 
 towards the country between Parnes and Pentelicus. In 
 Stuart's time, part of an arcade of marble remained, 
 consisting of two Ionic columns, with their entablature; 
 and the spring of an arch, containing the fragment of an 
 inscription, which was remarkably restored by Spon's dis- 
 covery of the entire legend in a manuscript at Zara\ It 
 stated, that the work was begun by Hadrian, in the new 
 Athens, and completed by his son Antoninus Pius*. The 
 whole fabric is now destroyed, so that even the site of the 
 arcade cannot be determined ; but the architrave yet re- 
 mains, with that part of the inscription which was observed 
 here when Wheler and Spon visited the spot : it forms the 
 lintel or top of one of the gates, leading towards its 
 antient situation, in the present wall of the city 3 . We 
 ascended to the commanding eminence of the mount, once 
 occupied by a temple of Anchesmian Jupiter. The Pagan 
 shrine has, as usual, been succeeded by a small Christian 
 sanctuary: it is dedicated to St. George. Of the view from 
 this rock, even Wheler could not write without emotion. 
 
 " Here," 
 
 Mount 
 Anchesmus. 
 
 (1) Wheler says at Spalatro. See Spon, Voyage de Dalmatie, &c. torn. I. p. 51. 
 a la Haye, 1/24. 
 
 (2) IMP- CAESAR- T- AELIVS • HADRIANVS • ANTONINVS • AUG • PIVS • COS- III • 
 TRIB ■ POT • II • PP • AQVAEDVCTVM • IN • NOVIS • ATHENIS - COEPTVM • A • DIVO • 
 HADRIANa- PATRE • SVO • CONSVMMAVIT • DEDICAVITQVE 
 
 (3) See the third volume of Stuart's Athens, as edited by Reveley, p. 28. Note (a) 
 Loml. 1794. 
 

 ATHENS. 
 
 " Here," said he 4 , " a Democritus might sit and laugh at the 
 pomps and vanities of the world, whose glories so soon 
 vanish; or an Heraclitus weep over its manifold misfortunes, 
 telling sad stories of the various changes and events of 
 Fate." The prospect embraces every object, excepting only 
 those upon the south-west side of the Castle. Instead 
 of describing the effect produced in our minds by such 
 a sight, it will be more consistent with the present 
 undertaking, to note down what the objects really are 
 which the eye commands from this place. It is a plan we 
 propose to adopt again, upon similar occasions, whenever 
 the observations we made upon the spot will enable us so 
 to do. The situation of the observer is north-east of 
 the city: and the Reader may suppose him to be looking, in 
 a contrary direction, towards the Acropolis; which is in 
 the centre of this fine picture: thence, regarding the whole 
 circuit of the Citadel, from its north-western side, towards 
 the south and east, the different parts of it occur in the 
 following order ; although, to a spectator, they all appear 
 to be comprehended in one view. 
 
 Central Object. 
 The lofty rocks of the Acropolis, crowned with its 
 maiestic temples, the Parthenon. Erect heum, Sec. 
 
 Fore Ground. 
 The whole of the modern city of Athens, with its 
 gardens, ruins, mosques, and walls, spreading into the plain 
 
 beneath 
 
 (4) Juurucy uiio biecce, UoukV. p. 3/4. Lund. lt)S2. 
 
 565 
 
 CHAP. XIII. 
 
 View from the 
 summit. 
 

 56*6 ATHENS. 
 
 chap, xiii. beneath the Citadel. The procession for an Albanian 
 wedding, with music, &c. was at this time passing out of 
 one of the gates. 
 
 Right, or North- Western Wing. 
 The Temple of Theseus. 
 
 Left, or South- Eastern Wing. 
 The Temple of Jupiter Olympius. 
 
 View beyond the Citadel, proceeding from West, to South and 
 
 East. 
 
 l . Areopagus. 2. Pnyx. 3. Ilissus. 4. Site of the Temple 
 of Ceres in Agree, and Fountain Callirhoe. 5. Stadium 
 Panathenaicum, Site of the Lyceum, &c. 
 
 Parallel Circuit, with a more extended radius. 
 
 1. Hills and Defile of Daphne, or Via Sacra. 2. Piraseus. 
 3. MunychiaandPhalerum. 4. Salamis. 5.JEgina. 6. More 
 distant isles. ;. Hymettus. 
 
 Ditto, still more extended. 
 
 1. Parnes. 2. Mountains beyond Eleusis and Megara. 
 3. Acropolis of Corinth. 4. Mountains of Peloponnesus. 
 5. The iEgean and distant Islands. 
 
 Immediately beneath the Eye. 
 
 1 . Plain of Athens, with Albanians engaged in agriculture; 
 herds of cattle, &c. &c. 
 
 Hereafter, 
 

 ATHENS. 
 
 567 
 
 Hereafter, in describing prospects, where our situation as ^chap .xiu. 
 spectators has been more elevated, and the view thereby 
 rendered still more extensive, as well as the objects more 
 numerous, we shall complete an entire circumference; 
 noting our observations according to the points of a 
 mariner's compass, after the plan adopted by Wheler. 
 During the time that we were occupied in making our 
 survey from this eminence, Lusieri began to trace the 
 outlines of the inestimable View of Athens which he 
 designed, and afterwards completed, upon this spot ; adding 
 every colour, even the most delicate tints and touches of 
 his pencil, while the objects he delineated were yet before 
 his eyes l . We remained with him during the greater part of 
 the day : and having now examined all the principal anti- 
 quities in the immediate vicinity of Athens, we returned by 
 the gate leading to Anciiesmus, where the inscribed marble, 
 relating to Hadrian's reservoir for water at the foot of the 
 mount, is now placed. After entering the city, we resolved 
 to try our success by making an excavation, not only in 
 one of the tombs, but also in the exhausted wells, of which 
 there are many in the neighbourhood of Athens. 
 
 (l) In this manner he finished his View of Constantinople, taken from an eminence 
 above the Canal ; working with his colours in the open air. His rival Fauvel was not 
 in Athens during the time of our visit ; a Frenchman equally renowned, for his talents 
 as an artist, his researches as an antiquary, and his disinterested attention to alj 
 traveller*, whether of his own or of any other nation. 
 

 
 
 :non across :.UONI0TS. 
 
 ■i .'", ./.• Sarotticut. vJcropo, - - > 
 
 " ■ . ■ 
 
 CHAP. XIV. 
 
 CHAP. XIV. 
 
 ATHENS. 
 
 Excavations — Great Antiquity of the Athenian Wells — Curious Inscrip- 
 tion upon a Terra-cotta Lamp —Excursion to Hymettus — Temple 
 of Diana — Monastery — Visit to the summit of the mountain — 
 Plants — Panoramic Survey of the Country — Return to Athens — 
 Singular Adventure that befel the Author — Description of the Cere- 
 monies of the Bath, as practised by the Turkish and Grecian Women 
 — Further observations in the Acropolis — Inscriptions — Specimen of 
 Cadmaean Characters — Additional remarks upon the Parthenon — 
 Effect of Sun-set behind the Mountains of Peloponnesus. 
 
 Having hired some Albanian peasants for the work, and 
 obtained permission from the Wakvode, we began the 
 examination of some of the wells. Mr. Cripps, in the mean 
 time, superintended the excavation of a tumulus near the 
 
 road 
 
ATHENS. 
 
 569 
 
 road leading to the Pirceeus ; but the difficulty of carrying on 
 any undertaking of this kind, owing to the jealousy, not 
 only of the Turks, but also of the Greeks, who always 
 suppose that some secret horde of gold is the object of 
 research, renders it liable to continual interruption. After 
 two days spent in opening the tomb, we had the mortification 
 to find that it had been examined before ; and we had good 
 reason to believe that a knowledge of this circumstance 
 was the sole ground of the easy permission we had obtained 
 to begin the labour for the second time. In the examination 
 of the wells, we succeeded better; but our acquisitions were 
 as nothing compared with those which have since been 
 made 1 . The reasons which induced the author to suspect 
 that the cleansing of an old well would lead to the dis- 
 covery of valuable antiquities were these : first, the wells of 
 Greece were always the resort of its inhabitants; they were 
 places of conversation, of music, dancing, revelling, and 
 almost every kind of public festivity; secondly, that their 
 remote antiquity is evident from the following extraordinary 
 circumstance. Over the mouth of each well has been placed 
 a massive marble cylinder, nearly corresponding, as to its 
 form, ornaments, height, and diameter, with the marble 
 altars which are so commonly converted by the Turks into 
 mortars for bruising their corn. A very entire altar of this 
 
 shape 
 
 (1) Particularly by Mr. Dodwell, and by Mr. Graham of Trinity College, Cambridge, 
 son of Sir James Graham, Bart. The latter of these gentlemen, in opening one of the 
 wells, restored to the inhabitants of Athens, to their great joy, a very fine spring of water, 
 which burst forth upon the removal of the rubbish by which the well was filled : the 
 most valuable gift he could have made to a city where water is particularly scarce. 
 VOL. III. 4 D 
 
 CHAP. XIV. 
 
 Excavations. 
 
 Great Anti- 
 quity of the 
 Athenian 
 Wells. 
 

 wm 
 
 570 ATHE N S. 
 
 chap. xiv. shape is in the Cambridge collection of Greek Marbles 1 . 
 These wells had no contrivance for raising water by means 
 of a windlass, or even of the simple lever 2 , common over all 
 the north of Europe, which is often poised by a weight at 
 the outer extremity. The water rose so near to the surface, 
 that it was almost within reach of the hand ; and the mode 
 of raising it was by a hand-bucket, with a rope of twisted 
 herbs. Owing to the general use of this rope, and its con- 
 sequent friction against the sides of the well, the interior 
 of those massive marble cylinders has been actually grooved 
 all round, to the depth of two or three inches : in some 
 instances, transverse channels appear crossing the others 
 obliquely, and to an equal depth. An effect so remarkable, 
 caused in solid marble by its attrition with one of the softest 
 substances, affords convincing proof that a great length of 
 time must have elapsed before any one of those furrows in 
 the stone could have been so produced; and that many ages 
 would be requisite to form such channels in any number. 
 
 Having selected a dry well for our experiment, whose 
 mouth was covered by a cylinder remarkably distinguished 
 by this appearance, we removed a quantity of stones and 
 rubbish, and found at the bottom a substratum of moist 
 marie. In this humid substance (the original deposit of 
 the water when the well was used), the quantity of 
 terra-cotta vessels, lamps, pitchers, bottles, some entire, 
 
 others 
 
 (1) Presented to the author by Bridges Harvey, Esq. M. A. of Jesus College. It 
 was brought from Delos. 
 
 (2) The lever is now used for some of the wells in Athens ; but it seems probable 
 that the use of this mechanical power among the Modern Greeks was introduced by 
 the Albanians. 
 

 ATHENS. 
 
 others broken, was very great. We removed not fewer 
 than thirty-seven in an entire state, of various sizes and 
 forms. They were chiefly of a coarse manufacture, 
 without glazing or ornament of any kind ; but the workmen 
 brought up also the feet, handles, necks, and other parts 
 of earthen vases of a very superior quality and workmanship : 
 some of these were fluted, and of a jet black colour ; others 
 of a bright red, similar to those innumerable fragments of 
 terra cotta found upon the site of all Grecian cities ; espe- 
 cially in the outer Ceramicus*, and in the sepulchres of Athens 
 since opened, as well as those of Italy and of Sicily. While 
 this work was going on, a lamp was brought to us, without 
 any information of the place where it was found, but of such 
 singular beauty and interest, that the author would be guilty 
 of an unpardonable omission if he neglected to insert its 
 particular description : he has an additional motive for so 
 doing; namely, the hope of being one day able to recover 
 this curious relique : for its extraordinary perfection so much 
 excited the cupidity of one of the Roman formatori, that 
 
 having 
 
 (3) By collecting upon the spot these fragments of Grecian pottery, and comparing 
 •afterwards the fragments found upon the site of one antient city with those discovered 
 upon the site of another, a very marked difference of manufacture may be observed. 
 The Corinthians seemed to have used a particularly heavy and coarse black ware ; 
 that of Athens was the lightest and most elegant ; that of Sicyon the rudest and most 
 antient. The mo st perfect pottery of Modern Greece is the earthenware of Larissa, 
 where it may be found almost equal in beauty to the antient terra cotta. Mr. Cripps 
 discovered at Athens, upon the outside of the city, fragments, of the finest antient 
 vases, lying as in a quarry, and sufficient in quantity to prove that a very large esta- 
 blishment for the manufacture of earthenware once existed upon the spot. As it 
 remains there at this hour, it may assist in deciding the disputed 'position of the outer 
 Ceramicus. " Fecit et Calcosthenes cruda opera Athenis ; qui locus ab qfficina ejus, 
 Ceramicos appellatur" Plin. Hist. Nat. lib. xxxv. c. 12. L.Bat. 1635. 
 

 ■MMMW 
 
 wQ0KpKHS3nBMKniBHH 
 
 
 572 A T HENS. 
 
 chap. xiv. having volunteered the troublesome and difficult task of 
 packing up our antiquities when we were about to leave 
 Athens, he availed himself of the opportunity to steal 
 this lamp ; and the theft was not discovered until the case, 
 said by him to contain it, was opened upon its arrival in 
 England. Possibly, therefore, as it may exist in some 
 cabinet of Europe, the following account of it may 
 hereafter lead to the knowledge of its situation; if it 
 do not prove the cause of its destruction. It was of a 
 black colour, like to our dark Wedgewood ware: when first 
 offered to us, it seemed to be corroded and porous ; but after 
 it had imbibed a little oil, it appeared as perfect as if it had 
 recently issued from the hands of the Athenian potter. In 
 shape and size it resembled the generality of antient terra- 
 cotta lamps; being of a circular form, and about three inches 
 in diameter, with a protruding lip for the wick in one part 
 of the circumference. Upon the top of this lamp, a lion 
 was represented in an erect posture ; the figure of the 
 animal expressing all the energy and greatness of style 
 
 Curious in- peculiar to the best age of sculpture. Within the circle at 
 
 scriptionupon 
 
 aTerm-cotta the bottom of the lamp was this inscription : 
 
 Lamp. 
 
 XflKPAT 
 HZEXE 
 
 znoN 
 
 SOCRATES • ACCEPT- THIS • ANIMAL 
 
 It seems therefore to have been originally one of those 
 offerings called vegregw uyaXftaru by Euripides 1 , the imagines, 
 
 or, 
 
 (l) Kot /ii?}v 6pM auv Trarepa ytpaiw 110Z1 
 
 "SreiyovT owacovt:, r tv yzpoiv ict/aapTt <d) 
 Kvauoy <j>ipovT(te, vapripuv uyaXuara. 
 
 Euripid. in Ale. v. ()J2. p. 282. Cantal. 169-i. 
 
ATHENS. 
 
 5/3 
 
 Excursion to 
 Hymettus. 
 
 or, as usually translated, grata munera, which the friends of c "ap.xiv. 
 a deceased person were wont to carry after the corpse during 
 the funeral procession : and perhaps it was deposited in the 
 grave of the most celebrated philosopher of the antient world. 
 During the first days of November we continued our 
 researches with the utmost diligence, both in making these 
 excavations, and in endeavouring to find Inscriptions which 
 had escaped the notice of former travellers. Upon the third 
 of this month we set out upon an excursion to Hymettus' 2 , 
 intending to visit the summit of the mountain. Having 
 taken with us horses, a guide, and provisions for the day, 
 we left Athens for this purpose, at sun-rise; Signor Lusieri 
 being of our party. In our way we crossed the Ilissus ; and 
 again passing the Stadium, we visited a small Greek chapel 
 towards the east, upon the top of a hill. This building was 
 alluded to in the preceding Chapter, as marking the site of 
 the Temple of Diana Jgrcea, or Agrotcra. We saw here the 
 remains of columns of three distinct orders in architecture ; 
 the most antient Doric, the Ionic, and the Corinthian ; 
 therefore it is rather the situation of the building, with 
 reference to the course pursued by Pausanias', than any 
 specific part of the antiquities remaining, which may be 
 
 relied 
 
 Temple of 
 Diana. 
 
 (2) " Many places in Greece preserve their antient names : others retain them with 
 a slight alteration ; as, Elimbo for Olympus ; Lyakoura for Parnassus, from Lycorea the 
 antient city upon that mountain: others bear appellations imposed on them by the 
 Venetians and Genoese : but no instance lias occurred of a more singular meta- 
 morphosis in Grecian nomenclature than in the name of Hymettus. The Venetians, 
 who called it Monte Hymetto, corrupted it into Monte Ma I to: Mat to signifies mad; 
 and the modern Greeks have chosen to translate the two words literally, by Trdo-Vouni^ 
 ' the Mad Mountain'. " Walpole's MS. Journal.. 
 
 (3) Vid. Pausan. in Atticis, c. )Q. p. 44. Edit. Kuhnii. Lips. I6g6. 
 
MMHVMHnftl 
 
 99W9V^At^f^f^K^0^M0tftltfU^tttt^tttttUtMitSSt 3SEES339I 
 
 Monastery. 
 
 ATHENS. 
 
 relied upon, as denoting where this temple of Dicma stood, 
 After his visit to the Gardens, and the Temple of Venus 
 (in hortis), having mentioned the Shrine of Hercules 
 (which was called Cynosdrges) , and the Lyceum, being still 
 eastward of the Stadium, he crosses the Ilissus, in that 
 part of it where it received the Eridanus ; and entering 
 Agra, or Agr^e 1 , immediately upon his arrival st the 
 southern side of the river 2 , notices the Temple of Diak ^ 
 Agrotera. No part of his description seems to be involve m 
 less uncertainty than his position of this edifice, which exa \y 
 corresponds with that of the Greek chapel nowmentioi J. 
 
 Hence we proceeded to the Monastery of Saliani*, 
 upon Mount Hymettus. Chandler believed this to have 
 been antiently renowned as the scene where the jealous 
 Procris met her fate from the unerring dart of Diana, 
 which she had given to her husband Cephalus*. A temple 
 of Venus stood upon the spot ; and near to it there 
 was a fountain whose water was believed to conduce to 
 pregnancy, and to an easy delivery. The modern supersti- 
 tion with regard to the fountain, which is close to the 
 Convent, confirmed his opinion in a manner that he does 
 
 not 
 
 (1) "Ay pa, Kal' 1 Ay pat, \bipiov, iviKuq koX 7t\i)0vi'tikw. Stephanus. Vid. Meurs. 
 lib. de Populis Atticae, ap. Gronov. Thesaur. Grace. Antiq. vol. IV. p. 683. L. Bat. 1 6QQ. 
 
 (2) Ata/octct fie rov EtXtercoV, yapiov "\ypai KaXovficvov, teal vads 'Aypo-cpac 
 ierTiv'ApTspiiSos. Pausan. c. 19. p. 45. Lips. 1696. 
 
 (3) So we believed the name to be pronounced; perhaps corrupted from some 
 derivative of 'ZaXsvu, Jiuctuo; the water here continually gushing forth. Wheler calls 
 this place Hagios Kyriani ; Chandler, Cyriani ; and Stuart has written it, in his Map 
 of Attica, Monastery of Syriani. 
 
 (4) See Chandler's Trav. in Greece, p. 145. Oxf. 1776. 
 
ATHENS. 
 
 575 
 
 not appear to have noticed : the priest told him. that ^ CHAP - X1V - 
 "a dove is seen to fly down from heaven, to drink of the 
 water annually, at the feast of Pentecost." It is remark- * 
 able that an ignorant superstition should thus have selected 
 the bird which was peculiarly sacred to Venus: and Chandler 
 also adds, that the Greek women still repair to the Monastery 
 at particular seasons. Being earnest in the pursuit of 
 antiquities, we neglected to attend, as we ought to have 
 done, to the traditions of the inhabitants ; but we found 
 enough to convince us that this was the site of some 
 antient temple. We observed in the church of the 
 Monastery several Ionic columns ; also the shaft of a 
 pillar of granite ; and at the fountain we saw the head 
 of a bull, or of a cow 5 , sculptured upon a white marble 
 Soros, now used as a cistern. This Monastery is visible 
 from Athens. The water from the fountain falls into the 
 Ilissus. We found here a slab of white marble, with an 
 inscription ; the stone had been brought from some ruins 
 near another convent, higher up than the Monastery, and 
 upon an opposite eminence towards Athens. Our guide 
 wished much to conduct us thither ; but we postponed going, 
 in order to copy this inscription, until it was too late ; as we 
 wished to reach the summit of Hymettus before noon, that 
 we might there estimate the temperature of the atmosphere, 
 
 and 
 
 (5) The Venus of Egypt and of Pkocnicc had this form. The image of Isis, 
 according to Herodotus (lib. n.), had the form of a woman with the horns of a cow 
 upon her head, as the Grecians represented JO. Wheler seems to allude to this piece 
 of sculpture, (See Journey into Greece, Book VII. p. 411. Lond. 1682.) but he calls 
 it " a sheep's head." 
 
HSRM'll9%9tlPlH4VlHHHCTMw^H|HMBMBMH ■HBMmBRSMhSHBhmKBBBBIBbBI 
 
 576 
 
 ATHENS, 
 
 chap. xiv. an( i a l S o avail ourselves of the clearness and serenity of 
 the weather for other observations. From the distant view 
 * we had of those ruins, added to the description given of 
 them, there seemed to be a ground-plot and foundation as 
 for a temple. This marble, which had been brought from 
 the spot, will of course render the place worthy the exami- 
 nation of future travellers. The subject of the Inscription 
 relates to the genealogy of some family. We have since 
 found that it has been already published by Chandler, who 
 takes no notice of the place where it was originally dis- 
 covered ; but as it may be consulted in the works of that 
 author, we shall not offer it a second time to the public 1 . 
 
 From this Monastery it is practicable to ride the 
 whole way to the summit of Hymettus ; but we preferred 
 walking, that we might the more leisurely examine 
 every object, and collect the few plants in flower at 
 this late season of the year 2 . We saw partridges in 
 great abundance ; and bees, in all parts of the moun- 
 tain ; not only at the Monastery, where a regular 
 apiary is kept, but also in such number dispersed and 
 feeding about the higher parts of Hymettus, that the 
 primeval breed 3 may still exist among the numerous 
 wild stocks which inhabit the hollow trees and clefts 
 
 of 
 
 Visit to the 
 Summit of 
 the Mountain. 
 
 (1) Vid. Inscript. Antiq. p. 64. AAAOTKO, k. t. \. 
 
 (2) 'Our specimens were all lost in the wreck of the Princessa merchantman; but 
 Wheler has given a catalogue of the plants collected by him, in the month of February, 
 upon this mountain. See Journey into Greece, Book VI. p. 414. Lond. 1682. 
 
 (3) The Anlients belived that bees were first bred here, and that all other bees were 
 but colonies from this mountain. 
 
 
ATHENS. 
 
 of the rocks. Their favourite food, the wild Thyme 
 (%g*o*.Xov, Thymus Serpyllum, Linn.), in almost every variety, 
 grows abundantly upon the mountain, together with Salvia 
 pomifera, and Salvia verbascum; and to this circumstance 
 may be owing the very heating quality of the honey of 
 Hymettus. The powerful aromatic exhalation of these 
 plants fills the air with a spicy odour: indeed, this scented 
 atmosphere is a very striking characteristic of Greece and 
 of its islands, but it peculiarly distinguishes the mountains 
 of Attica. The 0yp? of Theophrastus and Dioscorides 
 was used as incense in the temples. We could hear 
 nothing of the silver mines 4 mentioned by Strabo, where 
 
 the 
 
 577 
 
 (4) " The Athenians, we are informed, obtained copper from Colone, close to 
 
 Athens; where Scphocles has laid the scene of one of his most beautiful plays. Silver 
 
 was procured from Laurium, and was the metal in general circulation : there were ten 
 
 different coins of silver, from the tetradrachm to the quarter of an obolus. Lead was 
 
 purchased from the Tyrians : ToV /uoXvftcov tov Ik twv Tvpiav, are the words of 
 
 Aristides. II. Be Cur. Rei Fam. 3Q6. Gold was so scarce, at one time, in Greece, that 
 
 the Lacedaemonians could find none to gild the face of the statue of Apollo at Amyclae, 
 
 (ovk evpiffKovres (v rij 'EXXt^t yjpvaiov , Athene, 231.) and therefore sent to Lydia for 
 
 it. There was an abundance when the Temple of Apollo was plundered by the Phocian 
 
 tyrants, and when Alexander had pillaged, says Athenaeus, the treasures of Asia : 
 
 lib. vi. 231. It is worth remarking, that we can tell pretty nearly the century in 
 
 which the mines of silver of Laurium (which was about thirty miles S. E. from Athens) 
 
 began to fail ; at least according to the opinion of the Antients. Thucydides mentions 
 
 them in two places of his History (Book ii. and vi.) : in the sixth book he talks of the 
 
 revenue derived from the silver mines. It is the object of a treatise of Xenophon -to 
 
 recommend the Athenians to work the silver mines of Laurium (jrepl wopuv). But 
 
 what do Strabo and Pausanias say ? The latter asserts that they hadfailed. Strabo's 
 
 words are decisive as to this point: (Book ix.) 'The silver mines in Attica, formerly 
 
 celebrated, are now deficient. The men who work there, submitting again to the 
 
 operation of fire the former refuse and scoria (aKMpiav), find silver still in it : the 
 
 Antients having used their furnaces without any skill.' The ground about Laurium is 
 
 covered frequently, for many yards, with great quantities of scoria, lying in the road." 
 
 JValpoles MS. Journal. 
 
 CHAP. XIV. 
 Plants. 
 
 VOL. III. 
 
 4 E 
 
P^SPmKIRqmpSN Hmiw*SMmI MMHiPMMB BhBB >««»t A^ HH^H BBBBBSBBBBBBBB BBBBBBH I 
 
 579 ATHENS. 
 
 " v * the best honey of Hymettus was found. The ascent 
 was truly delightful; the different prospects varying in 
 extent and magnificence, as we pursued a devious track 
 among the rocks, in our way upwards to the top of the 
 mountain. We reached the summit about twelve o'clock : 
 there was no wind, and the sky was without a cloud. We 
 had some difficulty to find a shaded situation for the ther- 
 mometer: however, the difference amounted only to three 
 degrees of Fahrenheit, whether the scale remained in the 
 shade, or exposed to the sun's rays. The mercury stood 
 at 48 y in the former situation, and it rose only to 51° in 
 the latter; affording sufficient proof of the mild climate of 
 Attica, in this warm temperature upon the summit of 
 its loftiest mountain, in the beginning of the month of 
 November 1 . Even upon this elevated spot, and upon the 
 naked surface of the limestone, without an herb or a drop 
 of water to allure it, one of the wild bees came and settled 
 upon the scale of the thermometer, as if curious to inquire 
 what singular intrusion interrupted its aerial solitude. We 
 did not perceive any remarkable difference between the 
 apj >earance of this insect upon Hymettus, and the common 
 bee of our own country, except that we considered the 
 forme as rather smaller, and of a more golden colour. 
 Lusieri had already placed himself upon a sloping part of the 
 summit facing the south, and was beginning to delineate the 
 
 wonderful 
 
 (l) It may perhaps be asked why the author did not carry a barometer, rather 
 than a thermometer, to the summit of Hymettus : — simply, because such instruments 
 are not lound in any part of the Turkish Empire ; nor indeed anywhere else, in per- 
 fection, except in England. 
 
ATHENS. 
 
 wonderful sight he beheld. From the spot where he was 
 seated, a tremendous chasm of Hymettus, awfully grand, 
 extended, in one wide amazing sweep, from the summit to 
 the base of the mountain. Into this precipitous ravine there 
 projected from its sides the most enormous crags and per- 
 pendicular rocks. These he had chosen to be the fore-ground 
 of his sublime picture ; the eye looking down into an abyss 
 which at the bottom opened into a glorious valley, reaching 
 across the whole promontory of Attica, from sea to sea. 
 All beyond was the broad and purple surface of the ^Egean, 
 studded with innumerable islands, and shining with streaks 
 of the most effulgent light. While he was engaged in his 
 delightful employment, we undertook a task of less diffi- 
 culty ; namely, that of making a panoramic survey of all 
 the principal objects ; noting their situation according to 
 the points of a mariner's compass, which we placed upon 
 the upmost pinnacle of the mountain ; beginning with the 
 north point, and proceeding regularly from left to right, so 
 as to complete an entire circumference whose centre is the 
 summit of Hymettus. 
 
 Panoramic Survey of Attica, the ./Egean Sea, &c. 
 from the Summit of Hymettus. 
 
 North. 
 Parnes mountain, and the valley east of Athens, leading to Panoramic 
 
 D-V i i . . -~ , 7 Survey of the 
 
 rentelicus : the highest point of Parnes bearing due north. country.. 
 
 North North-East. 
 A very high mountain covered with snow, of a conical 
 torm, but at so great a distance that we could not decide 
 with certainty as to its name : possibly it may have been 
 
 the 
 
'.V-*'*'' **)*** 
 
 "r-*Tf- *=T.^^. 
 
 MMHMNBl 
 
 ■mMHHMB 
 
 ^-T*3S5?3 53§355!3R3s553» 
 
 
 580 
 
 CHAP. XIV. 
 
 ATHENS. 
 
 the mountain mentioned by Wheler, belonging to Eubcea. 
 and now called Delphi 1 ; but the bearing, according to his 
 observation, was north and hy cast. Nearer to the eye, 
 in this direction (n. n. e.), is one of the mountains of Eubcea, 
 extending from north and hy east to north-east ; that is to 
 say, the mountainous chain of Negropont. 
 
 North- East. 
 Pentelicus mountain, intercepting, with its summit, the 
 visible range of the Negropont mountains. 
 
 North-East and hy East. 
 
 The range of Eubcban Mountains (olim, Ocha Mons), 
 
 extending to east and by south : the Sea of Marathon 
 
 intervening in front. 
 
 East. 
 
 The Southern Promontory of Eubcea, called Caristo. 
 
 East and by South. 
 The strait between Andros and Eubcea. 
 
 East South- East. 
 The summit of Andros. 
 
 South- East and by East. 
 Tenos : nearer to the eye, and nearly in the same direc- 
 tion, the north point of Macronisi, or Isle of Helena. 
 extending thence towards south-east and by south. 
 
 South- East. 
 
 Gyaros, now called Jura; and half a point more towards 
 
 the south, Mycone, and the Delian Isles. 
 
 South- 
 
 (1) See Journey into Greece, p. 410. Lond. 1682. 
 
 nam- 
 
ATHENS. 581 
 
 South-East and by South. chap.xiv. 
 
 Eastern point of Z'ia, Ceos ; this island concealing all 
 the Cy chides excepting Cythnus, now Thermia. 
 
 South South- East. 
 Island of Ceos, now Zta. 
 
 South and by East. 
 Cythnus, now Thermia, appearing beyond the southern 
 point of Ceos ; and nearer to the eye, a mountain extending 
 across the promontory of Attica from sea to sea, being 
 opposed to Hymettus, (perhaps that called E/imbo). Still 
 nearer, beneath the view, the great valley which lies 
 between the two mountains, composing the three grand 
 features of all Attica, south-east of Athens. 
 
 South. 
 Cape Sunium, bearing into the sea, in a line from 
 north-east to south-west. 
 
 South and by West. 
 A lofty cape, with lower islands so much resembling 
 the Cape and Precipice of Samos, with the Samian Boccaze, 
 and the Isles of Fourni and Nicaria, that nothing but its 
 situation by the compass could convince us to the contrary. 
 The rude sketch made upon the spot will give an idea 
 
 of its appearance. We know not the name either of the 
 cape or of the islands. The distance in which they are 
 
 here 
 

 *7W* 
 
 ^HmmMM 
 
 HHmK MfiHGHIiwHEH BHHBMH 
 
 582 ATHENS. 
 
 chap. xiv. here viewed was the utmost stretch of the radius of our 
 circle : they were seen only by the outline of their forms., 
 thus interrupting the horizontal line of the sea. The only 
 land in this direction, as laid down in D'Anville's Chart of 
 the Archipelago, that could have been visible to us, is the 
 Island of Falconera; Milo being to the east of the south. 
 Nearer to the eye, in the same direction, we saw the Island 
 of St. George D Arbor i. 
 
 Between South and by West, and South South-West. 
 
 An island at an immense distance, perhaps Caravi: it 
 had some resemblance to Patmos ; and our stupid guide 
 insisted upon it that it was actually Patmos ; calling it also 
 e Ay*awV<, " Holy Island." 
 
 South South-West. 
 
 The open sea. Close to the eye, upon the coast of 
 Attica, a large mountain, forming, on this side of Hymettus, 
 a profound and magnificent valley with precipitous sides. 
 
 South-West and by South. 
 An island somewhat resembling Amorgos in its shape, 
 but quite in a different situation, appearing beyond the 
 south-eastern point of Hydra; perhaps Belo Poulo. 
 
 South- West. 
 Aristera, now called Hydra; extending in a line from 
 the south-east towards the north-west. 
 
 South- 
 
 *fc.-.v.*'',a"(/i'itj*,3 
 
ATHENS. 
 
 South- West and by West, 
 The ScylljEan Promontory, and entrance to the 
 Gulph of Argos ; a small island lying in the mouth of it : 
 the whole territory of Argolis being visible in this direction ; 
 its mountainous ridges exhibiting vast irregular undulations, 
 like the boiling of a troubled sea. 
 
 583 
 
 CHAP. XIV. 
 *— N ' 
 
 West South-West. 
 
 Sinus Saronicus : the Island of ^Egina, backed by the 
 Mountains of Epidaurus. 
 
 West and by South. 
 
 More distant summits of Peloponnesus, even to Arcadia, 
 seen between two small islands north-west of Mgina. 
 
 West. 
 
 Smaller Isles, and Rocks, towards the north of the 
 Saronic Gulph ; and distant Mountains of Peloponnesus. 
 
 West and by North. 
 Phalerum; and beyond it, the south-west part of the 
 Island of Salamis. 
 
 West North- West : 
 
 Piraeus ; the Island of Salamis; the Acropolis 
 of Corinth, backed by very lofty mountains, separating 
 Arcadia and Achaia, in the interior of Peloponnesus. 
 
 North- 
 

 584 
 
 CHAP. XIV. 
 
 ATHENS. 
 North- West and by West. 
 Megara ; Mons Gerane a ; and other high mountains 
 
 more distant. 
 
 North - West. 
 
 Eleusis, backed by a mountainous territory: the extre- 
 mity of the Saronic Gulph : and in this direction the 
 point of JEgaleos is visible where Xerxes is supposed to 
 have sat during the battle of Salamis. 
 
 Then succeeds the Plain of Athens, covered, on the 
 northern side, by extensive olive-plantations: afterwards, 
 still nearer to the eye, appear the Acropolis and City 
 of Athens, and all the Athenian Plain at the foot 
 of Hymettus. Athens, as viewed from this situation, 
 makes a most beautiful appearance : a description of it may- 
 be written as from a model. It lies in a valley, having 
 Phalerum and the Sea to the west,; Mount Pentelicus 
 to the east ; the mountainous range of Parnes, or Nozia, 
 to the north ; and Hymettus upon the south. In the plain 
 of this fine valley, thus surrounded by vast natural ramparts, 
 there are other very remarkable geological features. A series 
 of six insular mountain rocks, of breccia, surmounted by 
 limestone, rise in the plain in very regular succession, from 
 the east towards the west; (that is to say, from Pentelicus 
 towards the sea ;) gradually diminishing in that direction. 
 The Hill of Musceus is the last of the succession; that is to 
 say, it is the sixth in the series towards Phalerum. The 
 Acropolis of Athens stands upon the fifth, or the last but one, 
 towards the sea. The fourth is the lofty reck called Mount 
 
 jinchesmus ; 
 
ATHENS. 
 
 585 
 
 Anchesmus ; and this rock, by some convulsion of Nature, t CHAP.xiv. 
 has been separated into two parts : farther towards the east 
 are three other, carrying on the series towards Pentelicus 1 . 
 On the northern side of the city is a range of olive planta- 
 tions : between these and Hymettus, in the plain, occurs 
 the chain of rocks, extending east and west : the south 
 side of the plain, nearer to the base of Hymettus, wears a 
 barren aspect 4 , broken by mountainets, hills, and rocks. 
 
 Parnes, 
 
 (l) No person will accuse an author of being prolix who endeavours to make 
 his Readers familiar with this interesting territory, by every possible mode of description. 
 The most youthful Student may be taught to model it with the greatest facility. 
 By placing three books on a table, in the form of a Greek IT, he will have the 
 juxta-position of the three mountains, Parnes, Pentelicus, and Hymettus, and the sea in 
 front upon the open side ; then if he place six counters, or pebbles, diminishing in 
 size in a right line within the area, between the two parallel sides, in this manner, 
 he will bear in his memory a key to the topography of Athenian history, which 
 will not easily be lost. 
 
 Parnes. 
 
 *&' 
 
 3 *r <!V 
 
 ,-v 
 
 fp 
 
 jjjl" 
 
 HYMETTUS. 
 
 (2) " On the road from Marathon to the monastery on Pentelicus, and on that 
 from Keratia back to Athens, we passed some spots which in beauty of natural scenery 
 might vie with any thing we had seen in Greece. The Athenians were very partial to 
 a country life (Thucydides, lib. ii.) ; and many of these places, like that beautiful 
 village of Cephissias, seven miles to the north of Athens, which Aulus Gellius has 
 described, were the favourite abodes of the Athenians, whenever they could retire from 
 the noise of the popular assemblies at Athens. It does not however appear that they 
 attended much to the agriculture of the country : " Every man," says Xenophon, (de 
 CEcon.) '* may be a farmer j no art or skill is requisite :" a very good proof, observes 
 Hume, that agriculture was not much understood. When we consider this, and the 
 natural sterility of Attica, which the Antients so often mention, (see the Schol. on 
 Olym. 7. of Pindar,) we cannot but wonder at the great population which the 
 country was able to maintain. Heyne says barley was indigenous in the north of Attica : 
 and the olive-tree, which abounds in this country, might have contributed to the 
 VOL. III. 4 f support 
 
JgEaD hm! IHfl BWWMW ESS 
 
 586 
 
 AT HENS 
 
 chap. xiv. Parties, Pentelicus, and Hymettus, are all barren, and, from 
 this elevation, seem to be destitute of trees. 
 
 North-West and by North. 
 
 Exceeding high mountains of Bceotia and Phocis; 
 one, nearer to the eye, shaped like a saddle, forming a range 
 with Panics from e.n.e. tow. s. w. In this direction, and 
 immediately under the view, lies the double-rock of Anchcs- 
 nius, in the Athenian plain, to the east of Athens. With 
 regard to the distant mountains, they are probably Helicon, 
 now Zagara, and Cith^eron, now Elatcea. Wheler lays 
 the first n. w. by w. ; and the second, he says, begins n. w. 
 by w. and ends N. w. by n. 
 
 North North - West. 
 Another distant and very lofty mountain, appearing with 
 its blue peak towering behind the range of Mount Parnes, 
 and possibly Parnassus. 
 
 North and hy West. 
 Part of the range of Parnes; and, nearer to the eye, the 
 fine valley or plain of Athens. 
 
 North, 
 
 support of great numbers ; it being used antiently, as it is now, for a common article of 
 daily food. But immense supplies of corn were constantly imported from Sicily, Egypt, 
 and the Euxine. Attica was not able to maintain her inhabitants : these we may 
 calculate, in the year 312 A. C. at 524,000 ; supposing the text in Athenaeus to be not 
 corrupted. There were 21,000 citizens, and 10,000 strangers: allowing to each of 
 these a wife and two children, we have the number of free persons, 1 24,000 ; and 
 adding the slaves, {according to Athenceus,) 400,000, we find 524,000 to be the 
 aggregate. Attica contained 855 square leagues." IValpoles MS. Journal. 
 
ATHENS. 
 
 North. 
 Has been already noticed. The Circle is therefore here 
 completed. 
 
 The desire of leaving a memorial of the visit one has 
 paid to any memorable spot, seems to be so natural, that 
 however the practice may have been derided, the most 
 eminent travellers, in common with the most insignificant, 
 have left their names in some conspicuous situation : those 
 of Wheler and Spon have been observed upon the walls of 
 the Temple of Theseus ; that of Shaw remains in the Fran- 
 ciscan Convent at Jerusalem ; that of Pococke at Thebes, 
 in Upper Egypt; and that of Hasselquist upon the principal 
 pyramid of Memphis. Upon the summit of Hymettus no 
 such inscriptions appeared ; but the naked surface of the 
 limestone seemed to be so well calculated for their preser- 
 vation, that we felt a reluctance to return without carving 
 our names, as indelibly as our time would allow, upon the 
 top of the mountain. Having done this, we descended once 
 more towards the Convent, where we arrived late in the 
 evening, and immediately proceeded to Athens. 
 
 The following day was attended by a singular adventure. 
 We had agreed to spend the greater part of that day with 
 Lusieri, among the antiquities of the Citadel ; and for this 
 purpose Mr. Cripps accompanied him to the Acropolis soon 
 after breakfast. The author followed towards noon. About 
 half- way up the steep which leads to the Propylcza, he 
 heard a noise of laughter and of many clamorous voices, 
 
 proceeding 
 
H99l_ 
 
 mm wKMnHM BKBSKBBKS 
 
 588 
 
 CHAP. XIV. 
 
 Singular 
 Adventure 
 that befel 
 the Author. 
 
 ATHENS. 
 
 proceeding from a building situated in an area upon the left 
 hand, which had the appearance of being a public bath. 
 As it is always customary for strangers to mingle with the 
 Mahometans in such places without molestation, and as it 
 had been the author's practice to bathe frequently for the 
 preservation of his health, he advanced without further 
 consideration towards the entrance, which he found to be 
 covered with a carpet hanging before it. Not a human 
 creature was to be seen without the bath, whether Turk 
 or Greek. This was rather remarkable; but it seemed 
 to be explained in the numbers who were heard talking 
 within. As the author drew nigh unto the door of the 
 building, the voices were heard rather in a shriller tone 
 than usual; but no suspicion entering into his mind, as 
 to the sort of bathers which he would find assembled, he 
 put aside the carpet, and, stepping beneath the main 
 dome of the bagnio, suddenly found himself in the 
 midst of the principal women of Athens, many of whom 
 were unveiled in every sense of the term, and all of 
 them in utter amazement at the madness of the intrusion. 
 The first impulse of astonishment entirely superseded all 
 thought of the danger of his situation : he remained 
 fixed and mute as a statue. A general shriek soon brought 
 him to his recollection. Several black female slaves ran 
 towards him, interposing before his face napkins, and 
 driving him backwards towards the entrance. He endea- 
 voured, by signs and broken sentences, to convince them 
 that he came there to bathe in the ordinary way ; but this 
 
 awkward 
 
ATHENS. 589 
 
 awkward attempt at an apology converted their fears into chap. xiv. 
 
 laughter, accompanied by sounds of Hist! Hist! and the 
 
 most eager entreaties to him to abscond quickly, and without 
 
 observation. As he drew back, he distinctly heard some one 
 
 say in Italian, that if he were seen he would be shot. By 
 
 this time the negro women were all around him, covering 
 
 his eyes with their hands and towels, and rather impeding 
 
 his retreat, by pushing him blindfolded towards the door ; 
 
 whence he fled with all possible expedition. As the sight 
 
 of women in Turkey is rare, and always obtained with 
 
 difficulty, the Reader may perhaps wish to know what 
 
 sort of beings the author saw, during the short interval 
 
 that his eyes were open within the bagnio; although he 
 
 can only describe the scene from a confused recollection. 
 
 Upon the left hand, as he entered, there was an elderly Description of 
 
 , the Cere- 
 
 female, who appeared to be of considerable rank, from the monies of the 
 
 Women's 
 
 number of slaves sumptuously clad and in waiting upon her. Bath. 
 She was reclined, as it is usual in all Turkish baths, upon a 
 sort of divan, or raised floor, surround ingthe circular hall of 
 the bath, smoking and drinking coffee. A rich embroidered 
 covering of green silk had been spread over her. Her slaves 
 stood by her side upon the marble pavement of the bath. 
 Many other women of different ages were seated, or standing, 
 or lying, upon the same divan. Some appeared coming in high 
 wooden clogs from the sudatories or interior chambers of the 
 bath, towards the divan ; their long hair hanging dishevelled 
 and straight, almost to the ground : the temperature of those 
 cells had flushed their faces with a warm glow, seldom seen 
 upon the pale and faded cheeks of the Grecian and Turkish 
 
 women. 
 

 •^.--■■9 ; ' ■— .'*^*,,^;*,W'.' 
 
 I 
 
 590 
 
 CHAP. XIV. 
 
 Further obser- 
 vations in the 
 Acropolis. 
 
 A T H E N S. ♦ 
 
 women. Some of them were very handsome. Within the 
 centre of the area, immediately beneath the dome, the black 
 women and other attendants of the bath were busied 
 heating towels, and preparing pipes and coffee for the 
 bathers ; according to the custom observed when men 
 frequent these places. 
 
 The cause of this mistake remains now to be explained. 
 This bath was not peculiarly set apart for the use of females : 
 it was frequented also by the male inhabitants; but at stated 
 hours the women have the privilege of appropriating it to 
 their use ; and this happened to be their time of bathing ; 
 consequently the men were absent. Upon such occasions, 
 the Greek and Turkish women bathe together : owing to 
 this circumstance, the news of the adventure was very 
 speedily circulated over all Athens. As we did not return 
 until the evening, the family with whom we resided, hearing, 
 of the affair, began to be uneasy, lest it had been brought 
 to a serious termination ; well knowing that if any of the 
 Arnaouts, or of the Turkish guard belonging to the Citadel, 
 had seen a man coming from the bath while the women 
 were there, they, without hesitation or ceremony, would have 
 put him instantly to death : and the only reason we could 
 assign for its never being afterwards noticed, was, that 
 however generally it became the subject of conversation 
 among the Turkish females of the city, their Mahometan 
 masters were kept in ignorance of the transaction. 
 
 We remained in the Citadel during the rest of the day ; 
 not only to avoid any probable consequences of this affair, 
 but also that we might once more leisurely survey the 
 
 interesting 
 
X.Alfai. 
 
 An ATHENIAN LAJLiT in tke ID EEC 5 commonly wort , 
 
 v/V/.V/W . .//<//>// /,/*./ I>v T.riitMl k-W. l>,inW. Strand Zmdm. 
 
^^^^^^^^^^^m sot 
 
 MMUaIm 
 
 ;.4 4ftliji 
 
A THEN S. 
 
 501 
 
 interesting objects it contains ; and, lastly, have an oppor- chap.xiv. 
 tunity of seeing, from the Parthenon, the sun setting behind 
 the Acropolis of Corinth ; one of the finest sights in all 
 Greece. 
 
 It was mentioned in the preceding Chapter, that the 
 frieze of the Erectheuiti, and of its porticoes, consists of a 
 bluish-grey limestone, resembling slate ; and that the 
 tympanum of the pediment is likewise of the same stone; 
 but the rest of the temple is of marble. Perhaps this 
 kind of limestone was introduced into those parts of the 
 building intended to contain inscriptions ; because the 
 letters, when cut, being of a different colour from the 
 polished stone, would thereby be rendered the more 
 conspicuous. A circumstance which renders this probable, 
 is, that inscriptions are often found upon this kind of 
 limestone, among the remains of buildings constructed 
 of marble. The author found the following Inscrip- 
 tion this day, in the Acropolis, upon a blue slate-like 
 limestone : 
 
 POAYAAOZPOAYAAiAOYPAIANIEYZ 
 EIKONATHNAANE0HKEPOAYZTPATOZAYTOYAAEA4>ON 
 MNHMOZYNHN0NHTOYXnMaTOZA0ANATON 
 
 The name written in the first line, Polyllus, seems to have 
 been inscribed beneath the statue (image) of a person who 
 belonged to one of the dfaoi of Attica. YIuimwg MjfMs, that 
 is to say, Pcsaniensis populus; for in the verses which 
 follow, we read, that " Poly stratus raised this representation 
 — his own brother ; an immortal memorial of a mortal body." 
 
 If 
 
G95 EREst EflGflGB *w*fc»3K»s* ^" :, '^* ; * t *-'* r ^-* ? B5BHBP' 
 
 592 
 
 CHAP. XIV. 
 
 ATHENS. 
 
 If the statue were of white marble, the blue limestone 
 placed' below it may have been selected as better adapted 
 for the purpose of adding the inscription. 
 
 We also copied an Inscription of the Roman times, 
 relating to " Pammenes the son of Zeno of Marathon" who 
 is mentioned as Priest; but it is in a very imperfect state : 
 
 M020EMEftMII:KAI2 miKAI2API2TPA TNT02 . . HIT 
 
 TA2nAMMENOT2TOTXHNnNO2MAPA0nNIOTIEPE£220EA2 
 
 MH2KAI2EBA2TOT2flTHPO2EPAKPOnOAEIEniIEPEIA2A0H 
 POAIAAO2MEri2TH2TH2A2KAHniAAOrAAAIEfl20rrAT . . 
 
 L^: 
 
 Afterwards, Lusieri shewed to us an inscribed marble which 
 he had been ordered to send to England with the spoils of 
 the Parthenon ; but as the author does not know whether it 
 met with the fate of a large portion of the sculpture in 
 Cerigo Bay, or ultimately reached its destination, he will 
 subjoin the copy he made of this Inscription upon the spot, 
 because it is one of the most antient that have been found 
 in Greece. It is written in what are called Cadmcean 
 letters ; recording the names of certain Athenians and their 
 tribes. The double vowels were not in general use before 
 the Archonship of Euclid in the ninety-fourth Olym- 
 piad. Instead of E we have here X £ as in TIMOX£ENO£. 
 The forms also of the Gamma, Lambda, and Sigma, are most 
 antient; they are thus written N, U, and £. The H is 
 used for the aspirate, asinHlPO0ONTIAO£. In other 
 respects, as it is merely a list of names, this is all which 
 may be here requisite for its illustration. 
 
ATHENS. 
 
 593 
 
 EPI . . PEYS 
 
 PAYS AAEEI 
 
 <M H P P I AE£ 
 
 KEKPOPI AOS 
 
 UYNOM EAEY 
 
 OEOAOPOS 
 
 UYKI . O . 
 
 ANA . I . IOS 
 
 AENEKUES 
 
 <1>PYNI KOS 
 
 HIPO0ONTIAOS 
 
 OEOTIMOS 
 
 ^KYPOKl/EC 
 
 XAPI AS 
 
 EYAhhElO^ 
 
 Nl KOSTPATOS 
 
 0PASYM AXOS 
 
 <I> ANI AS 
 
 KAUH Kl ES 
 
 EXEO P I AAES 
 
 Al ANTI AOS 
 
 KPATI NOS 
 
 ANTIOXI AOS 
 
 A PUTOM EAE£ 
 
 AM EINOKTES 
 
 AISXINES 
 
 P ANTAKU ES 
 
 XAPIAEMOS 
 
 Tl MOXSENOS 
 
 ANTI<t>AN ES 
 
 EM P OTEI AAI AS 
 
 PANTAKl^ES 
 
 AhNOAEM OS 
 
 APXI AS 
 
 E N A M <J> ( P O U E I 
 
 <MUO<!> PON 
 
 EP I0PAI KES 
 
 EYKPATES 
 
 EMPYUOIS 
 
 Eh IAS 
 
 ENS EPMYHAI 
 
 POI/YMN ESTOS 
 
 ESSIAAOI 
 
 P AYSIAS ISS 
 
 A . S . 
 
 VOL. III. 
 
 . . . . STP . 
 
 TF . . AN . . . 
 Eh . . BA . . . 
 It ES 
 
 ON 
 
 Eh 
 XAE 
 
 AEMOSTPAT 
 KEh . OPI AEI 
 UYKEN . . . . 
 Tl MOS . . I . . hE 
 SOIhlYTI . . 
 UEOKA .... 
 
 AIAI .... 
 AUAYKh. . . 
 OPAS ON 
 ANTI<I>0 
 ANTIO* 
 El . ITEAIA 
 EY0Y . . AXO 
 N I KIP PO 
 
 N . E . . . 
 
 A . S • • • 
 SOXSOIAU 
 
 AY PI K 
 
 AEXMOS 
 MN EAOPAS 
 nEPI CPIAES 
 HEI <MAOS 
 ON ES I MOS 
 H IE . . . E 
 ANA . . . 
 X£ EN<M 
 A0EN APIS 
 EY<l>PAIOS 
 XAIPYS N 
 nos E . . . TOS 
 M ENO . . . 
 STPATO 
 
 CHAP. XIV. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 4 G 
 
 The 
 
Kty\t 
 
 «r ^H r**?*^ '"fflf. , 
 
 
 594 ATHENS. 
 
 The other Inscriptions which we collected here, and in 
 the lower city, have been already published. Some of them 
 are in Gruter; others may be seen either in Spon or in 
 Chandler 1 ; with the exception of one which we afterwards 
 found in a school-room, near the celebrated Temple of the 
 Winds. It was inscribed upon a marble bas-relief, repre- 
 senting a female figure seated, holding by the hand an old 
 man who is standing before her. As this brief inscription 
 will be the last we shall notice in Athens, it may be here 
 introduced as a companion of those already given in this 
 Chapter. The Header is referred to Suidas and Harpocration 
 for an illustration of the word Alyi\iev$. ^Egilia was one 
 of the Attic tiijfAot, and belonged to the tribe Antiochis. 
 
 PANKMAOZMEIHAAOYAPXIPPH 
 
 AITIAIEYIMEIEIAAOY 
 
 Additional re- The sun was now setting, and we repaired to the Parthenon. 
 
 remarks upon 
 
 theParthenon. This building in its entire state, either as a Heathen temple, 
 or as a Christian sanctuary, was lighted only by means of 
 lamps : it had no windows ; but the darkness of the 
 interior was calculated to aid the Pagan ceremonies bv 
 
 on? 
 
 (l) The celebrated Marmor Atheniense has been, however, inaccurately edited ly 
 the last of these authors. It was lately found in a neglected state in the British 
 Museum ; and has since exercised the erudition and critical acumen of that accon- 
 plished scholar, and learned antiquary, Richard Payne Knight, Esq. As this marbe 
 was originally removed from the Acropolis, it may be proper here to add, that t 
 preserves a record of a very interesting nature ; nothing less than the name of tie 
 architect who built the Erectheum ; namely, Philocles of Acharnje. This part <f 
 the Inscription was recovered by W. Wilkins, Esq. who communicated the circumstanc 
 to the author. 
 
 2--^ 
 

 ATHENS. 
 
 595 
 
 one of the most powerful agents of superstition. The chap. xiv. 
 priests at Jerusalem have profited by a similar mode of 
 construction for their pretended miracle of the " holy fire" 
 at the Tomb of the Messiah ; and the remains of man}' antient 
 crypts and buildings in Egypt and in Greece seem to 
 prove that the earliest places of idolatrous worship were all 
 calculated to obstruct rather than to admit the light. Even 
 in its present dilapidated state, the Parthenon still retains 
 something of its original gloomy character : it is this which 
 gives such a striking effect to the appearance of the distant 
 scenery, as it is beheld through the portal by a spectator 
 from within, who approaches the western entrance. The 
 Acropolis of Corinth is so conspicuous from within the nave, 
 that the portal of the temple seems to have been contrived 
 for the express purpose of guiding the eye of the spectator 
 precisely to that point of view. Perhaps there was another 
 temple, with a corresponding scope of observation, within 
 the Corinthian Citadel. Something of this nature may 
 be observed in the construction of old Roman-Catholic 
 churches, where there are crevices calculated for the purpose 
 of guiding the eye, through the darkness of the night, 
 towards other sanctuaries remotely situated ; whether for 
 any purpose of religious intercourse, by means of lights 
 conveying signs to distant priests of the celebration of 
 particular solemnities, or as beacons for national signals, it 
 is not pretended to determine. As evening drew on, the 
 lengthening shadows began to blend all the lesser tints, and 
 
 Mountains of 
 
 to give breadth and a bolder outline to the vast objects in Peloponnesus. 
 the glorious prospect seen from this building ; so as to 
 
 exhibit 
 
 Effect of 
 Sun-set 
 behind the 
 

 596 
 
 CHAP.XIV. 
 
 ATHENS. 
 
 exhibit them in distinct masses : the surface of the Sinus 
 Saronicus, completely land-locked, resembled that of a 
 shining lake, surrounded by mountains of majestic form, 
 and illustrious in the most affecting recollections. There 
 is not one of those mountains but may be described in the 
 language of our classic bard as " breathing inspiration." 
 Every portion of territory comprehended in the general 
 survey has been rendered memorable as the scene of some 
 conspicuous event in Grecian story; either as the land of 
 genius, or the field of heroism ; as honoured by the poet's 
 cradle, or by the patriot's grave ; as exciting the remem- 
 brance of all by which human-nature has been adorned 
 and dignified ; or as proclaiming the awful mandate which 
 ordains that not only talents and virtue, but also states and 
 empires, and even the earth itself, shall pass away. The 
 declining sun, casting its last rays upon the distant summits 
 of Peloponnesus, and tinging with parting glory the moun- 
 tains of Argolis and Achaia, gave a grand but mournful 
 solemnity both to the natural and the moral prospect. It 
 soon disappeared. Emblematical of the intellectual darkness 
 now covering these once enlightened regions, night came 
 on, shrouding every feature of the landscape with her dusky 
 veil. 
 

 . . ■ . 
 
 
 . XV. 
 
 PELOPONNESUS. 
 
 Departure from. Athens for the Peloponnesus — Extraordinary talents of 
 a Calmuck Artist — Further account of the Piraeeus — the "long 
 walls" — Tomb of Themistocles — its situation — remains of this 
 monument — Objects visible in passing the Gulph — ^Egina — Temple 
 of Jupiter Panhellenius — Antiquities near to the port — Anchestri 
 Isle — Ignorance of the Pilot — Epiada — Greek Medals — Arbutus 
 Andrachnc — Appearance of the Country — Ligurio — Conak, or 
 inn — Coroni — Cathedra of a Greek Theatre — Hieron — Mountains 
 — Temple o/*,/Esculapius — Stadium — Architectural Terra-cottas — 
 Temple of the Coryphsean Diana — Temple of Apollo — Circular 
 edifice — Theatre o/"Polycletus — Epidaurian serpent — Aspect of the 
 Coilon — Perfect state of the structure — dimensions and detail 
 of the parts — Journey to Nauplia — Lessa — Dorian and Egyptian 
 antiquities — Arachnaeus Mons — Cyclopea — Nauplia — House of the 
 
 Consul — 
 
^■1 
 
 598 
 
 DEPARTURE FROM ATHENS. 
 
 CHAP. XV. 
 
 Dej>arture 
 from Athens 
 for the 
 Peloponnesus. 
 
 Consul — Turkish Gazette — Public rejoicings — Athletse — Pyrrhica 
 — Population — Mr — Commerce — Gipsies — Characteristic features 
 of Grecian cities — Tiryns — Celtic and Phoenician architecture — 
 Origin of the Cyclopean style — History of Tiryns — character of 
 its inhabitants. 
 
 kJn Thursday, November the fifth, we left Athens at 
 sun-rise, for the Pirceens ; having resolved to sail to Epi- 
 daurus ; and after visiting Epidauria and Argolis, to return 
 through the northern districts of Peloponnesus, towards 
 Megara and Eleusis. The Governor of Athens had kindly 
 commissioned a relation of his family, a most amiable 
 and worthy Turk, to accompany us in the capacity of 
 Tchohadar; a word which we shall not attempt to translate : 
 it is enough to say that such was his title, and that he 
 travelled with us as an officer who was to provide for us, 
 upon all occasions, and to be responsible, by his authority, 
 for our safety among the Albanians. Our caique had 
 remained at anchor since our arrival : the men belonging 
 to her had been daily employed in repairing the sails and 
 rigging. Lusieri offered to accompany us as far as ^Egina; 
 having long wished for an opportunity of seeing that 
 island : although rich in valuable antiquities, it had been 
 strangely overlooked by almost every traveller, excepting 
 Chandler. As he expected ample employment for his 
 pencil, he was desirous of being also attended by one 
 Extraordinary of the most extraordinary characters that has been added 
 to the list of celebrated artists since the days of Phidias. 
 This person was by birth a Calmuch, of the name of 
 
 Theodore ; 
 
 Artist. 
 
 

 ■ 
 
IBH9IBHGBB IB *V« IBBBBBBBIDBBHB HOBBL— 
 
 - 
 
DEPARTURE FROM ATHENS. 
 
 599 
 
 Theodore ; he had distinguished himself among the painters 
 at Rome, and had been brought to Athens to join the band 
 of artists employed by our Ambassador, over which Lusieri 
 presided. With the most decided physiognomy of the 
 wildest of his native tribes, although as much humanized 
 in his appearance as it was possible to make him by the 
 aid of European dress and habits, he still retained some of 
 the original characteristics of his countrymen ; and, among 
 others, a true Scythian relish for spirituous liquor : by 
 the judicious administration of brandy, Lusieri could elicit 
 from him, for the use of his patron, specimens of his art, 
 combining the most astonishing genius with the strictest 
 accuracy and the most exquisite taste. Theodore presented 
 a marvellous example of the force of natural genius unsub- 
 dued by the most powerful obstacles. Educated in slavery ; 
 trained to the business of his profession beneath the 
 active cudgels of his Russian masters ; having also imbibed 
 with his earliest impressions the servile propensities and 
 sensual appetites of the tyrants he had been taught to revere; 
 this extraordinary man arrived in Athens like another 
 Euphranor, rivalling all that the Fine Arts had produced 
 under circumstances the most favourable to their birth and 
 maturity. The talents of Theodore, as a painter, were not 
 confined, as commonly is the case among Russian artists, to 
 mere works of imitation : although he could copy every 
 thing, he could invent also ; and his mind partook largely of 
 the superior powers of original genius. With the most 
 surprising ability, he restored and inserted into his drawings 
 
 all 
 
 CHAP. XV. 
 
 
jWWP«i 
 
 600 
 
 CHAP. XV. 
 
 Further Ac- 
 count of the 
 Piraeus — the 
 "long walls." 
 
 THE PIRAEUS. 
 
 all the sculpture of which parts only remained in the 
 mutilated bas-reliefs and buildings of the Acropolis. Besides 
 this, he delineated, in a style of superior excellence, the same 
 sculptures according to the precise state of decay in which 
 they at present exist 1 . 
 
 There are many Ruins about the three ports, Munychia, 
 Phalerum, and the Pirceeus ; and we may look to future 
 excavations in their vicinity as likely to bring to light many 
 valuable antiquities. The remains of the long walls which 
 joined the Pirceeus to Athens, (making of it a burgh 
 similar to what Leith is with respect to Edinburgh 2 ,) 
 although very indistinct, yet may be traced sufficiently 
 to ascertain the space they formerly included. These 
 walls appear to have had different names (distinguishing 
 them from the town walls of Pirceeus) among the 
 Greeks and Romans. By the former they were termed 
 either Ma^« rsi^tj, the long walls, or M«^a <mA?j, literally 
 answering to a nick-name bestowed upon one of our 
 kings of England, who was called Long-shanks. We 
 find them alluded to under this appellation by Diodorus 
 Siculus ; as a term whereby they are distinguished from the 
 Pirceean walls*. The Romans adopted a different appellation : 
 
 by 
 
 (1) See Memorandum on the Earl of Elgin's Pursuits in Greece, p. 5. Lond. 1811. 
 
 (2) Edinburgh exhibits a very correct model of a Grecian city : and with its Acro- 
 polis, Town, and Harbour, it bears some resemblance to Athens and the Piraeus. 
 
 (3) IvvtdBvro t>)v eipifyrfv, Xvts TA MAKPA 2KEAH, teal TA TEIXH TOT 
 ITEIPAIEns, irepteXetv. Diod. Sic. lib. xiii. ap. Meurs. Pir. Vid. Gronov. Thesaur. 
 Gr. torn. V. p. 1932. L. Bat. 1699. 
 
 
THE PIRAEUS. 601 
 
 by them the "long-shanks" were called the "arms" or chap. xv. 
 " long arms." They are thus mentioned by Livy\ and by 
 Propertiiis'. A corrupt mode of writing the word Pirceeus 
 seems to have been adopted by some authors, who express 
 Ilsigottsvs by Pirams. Meursius, upon the testimony of all 
 the early Greek authorities, is decisive for the former 
 reading 6 . In his admirable treatise upon this harbour and 
 its antiquities, he has concentrated with wonderful erudi- 
 tion every thing that the Antients have left concerning 
 its history. In its original state it had been an island, 
 whence it received its name 7 , like many later towns \ 
 from its ferry 9 . Travellers have pretended to recognise 
 the tomb of Themistocles. A square stone resting on a Tomb of 
 
 i , i i • /- ,, Themistocles- 
 
 simple base, and destitute of any ornament, was all that 
 denoted the place of his interment. It was near to the 
 principal harbour 10 , of course that of Pirceeus 11 , containing 
 
 three 
 
 (4) " Inter angustias semiruti muri, qui duobus brachiis Piraeeum Athenis jungit." 
 Livius, lib. xxxv. ap. Meurs. Pir. ut supra. 
 
 (5) " Inch: ubi Piraei capient me littora portus, 
 
 Scandam ego Theseae brachia longa via?." 
 
 Propertius, lib. iii. Eleg. 20. ap. Meurs. ut supra. 
 
 (6) Meursii Piraeeus, passim. Sic Suidas, Stephanus, Hesychius, &c. &c. 
 
 (7) ToV tc Wtipaia, vr\aid'CovTa Trporepov, ical vipav r?/c 'Acn/c Ktipievov, ovruc 
 ■ipatrlv oyo/nacrdtji'at. Strabon. Geog. lib.i. p. 86. Oxon. 1807 . 
 
 (8) Trajectum ad Mosarn, Maestricht in Brabant ; Trajectum ad Rkenum, Utrecht, 
 Trajectum ad Mcenum, Francfort upon Mcene ; Trajectum ad Oderam, Francfort 
 upon the Oder. 
 
 (9) r Hv Trpdrepor 6 Hi:ipatcv<; vtjaoc' odev Kai rovvof.ia Et\t)6cv, viro rt)v hunrepdv. 
 '* Primitus insula erat Piraeeus : unde et nomen accepit, a trajectu." Suidas. 
 
 (10) Kou Trpdr tu pieyifTTu Xtfitvi rdtyor QcfxidTOKklovi;. Pausan. Attic, p. 3. 
 Lips. 1696. 
 
 (11) " Piraeus, qui et ipse, magnitudine, ac commoditate, primus." Meurs. Pir.ap. 
 Gronov. Thesaur. Gr. tom.V. p. 1931. L. Bat. 1699. 
 
 VOL. III. 4 H 
 

 
 
 602 
 
 THE PIRAEUS. 
 
 CHAP. XV. 
 
 Situation of 
 the Tomb of 
 
 three smaller ports, as docks 1 : for the port of Phalerum, 
 within the road of that name, was very small 2 . Its 
 situation seems to be so clearly designated by a passage 
 rhemistocics. - m pi u tarch, at the end of his life of Themistocles 3 , that it 
 would seem almost impossible to mistake the spot. It was 
 situated at the promontory of Alcimus, where the land, 
 making an elbow, sheltered a part of the harbour ; here, above 
 the still water, might be seen the tomb. The base, although 
 simple, as stated by Pausanias, is by Plutarch said to have 
 been of no inconsiderable magnitude 4 ; and the tomb itself, 
 that is to say, the Soros, resembled an altar placed thereon. 
 Guided by this clue, we felt almost a conviction that we had 
 discovered all that now remains of this monument. The 
 
 promontory 
 
 (1) It contained three vpfiot, or docks ; the first called lidvdapos, from a hero of 
 that name ; the second "Atypociaiov, from 'Afpociri), or Venus, who had these two 
 temples; the third Zt'u, from bread corn, which was called by the Grecians fad. 
 (Poller's Arch. vol. I. p. 43. Lond. 1751.) Scylax mentions its three ports: X) ct 
 Htipatcv<;\ifAiyas E^ei rpih. (Scylacis Caryandensis Periplus, p. 47. L. Bat. l6g~.) 
 
 " On the twenty- fourth of June we anchored in the convenient little harbour of 
 the Piraeus, where the chief objects that call for one's attention are, the remains 
 of the solid fortifications of Themistocles ; the remains of the moles forming the smaller 
 ports within the Pirjeeus ; two monuments on the sea-shore ; and palpable vestiges of 
 the long walls which connected the harbour with Athens, a distance of about four 
 miles and a half." Colonel Squires MS. Correspondence. 
 
 (2) " Cum Phalero portu, neque magno, neque bono, Athenienses uterentur, hujus 
 consilio triplex Piraeei portus constitutus est." Cornelius Nepos in Themistocle, ap. 
 Gronov. Thesaur. Gr . tom.V. p. 1934. L. Bat. 16QQ. 
 
 (3) TIcpl rrjv Xtfxcva rov Xlsipatuc, diro rov icard ti)v "AXiciftov dk-pu-yjotov, TrpoKeiTui 
 r<<; oivv dyKuv. ical Ka/J.\pavTi tovtov ivrd<;, )) to vrrovliov r»;c OaXdrrrjs, tcpnrrU; tariv 
 evfieyedrjt, kuI to Trtpl avTy)v fiufioEicer, Tatyoi tov (dtptcTTonKtow;. Plutarch, in 
 extremo Themist. torn. I. Lond. 1/29. 
 (4"l \Li)[j.tyi6Tfc, 
 
 — - J - '-""■•' ■•■"'■ 
 

 THE riR.EEUS. 
 
 6'03 
 
 Remains of 
 this Monu- 
 ment. 
 
 promontory alluded to by Plutarch constitutes the southern 
 side of the entrance to the harbour 5 : jutting out from 
 the Pircecan or Munychian peninsula, it forms, with the 
 opposite promontory of Eetion, the natural mouth of the 
 port, lying towards the west, that is to say, beyond the 
 artificial piers whereby it was inwardly closed 6 . Here we 
 landed ; and found precisely the sort of base alluded to by 
 the historian ; partly cut in the natural rock, and partly an 
 artificial structure ; so that a person ascended to the Soros, 
 as by steps, from the shore of the sea. Our position of 
 the tomb may be liable to dispute : the Reader, having 
 the facts stated, will determine for himself. Of the Soros 
 not a trace is now remaining. 
 
 As we sailed from the Pirceeus, we soon perceived the objects risible 
 
 in passing 
 
 Acropolis of Corinth, and, behind it, high mountains which the<3ui P h. 
 were much covered by clouds, although the day was 
 remarkably fine. We lost some time in the harbour, and 
 were afterwards detained by calms. About three o'clock, 
 p. m. we passed a small island, called Bclbina by D'Anvitte 7 . 
 About an hour before, we had observed the thermometer, 
 in the middle of the gulph : the mercury then stood at 6s° 
 
 of 
 
 Belbimt. 
 
 (5) Voy. Barthel. " Plan des Environs d'Athenes pour le Voyage da Jeune Ana- 
 fharsis." Troisieme edit, a Paris, 1790. 
 
 (6) " Ut non tan turn arte tutus, sed natura etiam esset." Meursii Pirceeus, ap. 
 Gronov. Thes. Gr. tom.V. p. 1935. L. Bat. 1699. 
 
 (/) Its modern name is Lavousa, according to D'Anviile's Chart of the Archi- 
 pelago. Chandler considers the Island of Bellina as lying towards the mouth of the 
 Galph. See Trav. in Greece, p. 11. Oxf. 177*3. 
 
KB! s^» ^^B 
 
 ■■■i m 
 
 
 ^^M 
 
 CHAP. XV. 
 
 604 VOYAGE TO .EGINA. 
 
 of Fahrenheit. A mountain of very great elevation was 
 now visible behind the lofty rock of the Corinthian Citadel, 
 and at a great distance. Lusieri insisted upon its being 
 Parnassus ; and Theodore was of the same opinion. Judging 
 from our position, it could not have been one of the 
 mountains of Peloponnesus ; and therefore, supposing it to 
 have been situated either in JEtolia or Phocis, the circum- 
 stance alone is sufficient to shew how little agreement our 
 best maps have with actual observations, as to the relative 
 position of places in Greece. De Elsie 1 is perhaps, in this 
 respect, more disposed to confirm what is here written, than 
 D'Anville : yet in neither of their maps of the country 
 would a line drawn from the island we have mentioned 
 through the Aero- Cor inthus , reach the mountainous terri- 
 tories to the north of the Gulph of Corinth. Such a line, 
 traced upon D'Anville s Map of Greece 2 , would traverse 
 the Sinus Corinthiacus , far to the south of all Phocis 
 and the land of the Locri Ozolce ; and would only enter 
 JEtolia, near the mouths of the Evenus and Acheloiis rivers. 
 D'Anville s Chart of the Archipelago 3 is liable to the same 
 remarks; we dare not call them objections, until they 
 have been confirmed by other travellers. About five, 
 Angina. P. m. we were close in with ./Egina : and as we drew near 
 to the island, we had a fine view of the magnificent remains 
 
 of 
 
 (!) Graeciae Antiquae Tabula Nova. Paris, Oct. 1707. 
 
 (2) Published at Paris in 1762. 
 
 (3) Dated, Paris, Oct. 1756. 
 
E&£iraa5g62&a^*^(5$3i£m9 
 
 
 VOYAGE TO ^EGINA. 
 
 605 
 
 of the Temple of Jupiter Panhettenius ; its numerous Doric ^chap. xv.^ 
 columns standing in a most conspicuous situation upon the j* m ^p an 
 mountain Panhellenius, high above the north-eastern shore heUenius - 
 of the island, and rising among trees, as if surrounded 
 by woods. This is the most antient and the most 
 remarkable Ruin of all the temples in Greece : the inhabi- 
 tants of /Egina, in a very remote age, maintained that 
 it was built by Macus. Chandler had given so copious 
 a description of JEgina, and of this temple, that to begin 
 the examination of the island again, without being able to 
 make any excavations, we considered as likely to be 
 attended with little addition to our stock of information; 
 and almost as an encroachment upon ground already 
 well occupied. We therefore resolved to continue 
 our voyage as soon as we had landed Lusieri and the 
 Calmuck 4 . Sailing round the north-western point of the 
 
 island, 
 
 (4) We had good reason afterwards to repent of our folly in making this resolution; 
 for although Chandler spent some time upon the island, it has, in fact, been little 
 visited by travellers. Lusieri found here both medals and vases in such great number, 
 that he was under the necessity of dismissing the peasants who had amassed them, 
 without purchasing more than half that were brought to him ; although they were 
 offered for a very trifling consideration. The medals and the vases which he collected 
 were of very high intiquity. The medals were either in silver or lead; and of that 
 rude globular form, with the lortoise on one side, and a mere indentation on the other, 
 which is well known to characterize the earliest Grecian coinage ; indeed, the art itself of 
 coining money was first introduced by the inhabitants of this island. Of the terra-cotta 
 vases which he collected, we afterwards saw several in his possession : they were small, 
 but of the most beautiful workmanship 3 and as a proof of their great antiquity, it is 
 necessary only to mention mat the subjects represented upon them were historical, and 
 the figures black upon a red ground. We have since recommended it to persons visiting, 
 Greece, to be ddigent in their researches upon iEgina; and many valuable antiquities 
 have been consequently discovered upon the island. 
 
w^m" 
 
 
 6'06 
 
 CHAP. XV. 
 
 Antiquities 
 near to th« 
 port. 
 
 M G I N A. 
 
 island, we observed a very large barrow, upon the shore ; 
 this is noticed by Chandler 1 as the mound of earth (^ ( aa) 
 raised by Telamon after the death of Phocus, as it was seen 
 by Pausanias in the second century 2 . Mear to this mound 
 there was a theatre, next in size and workmanship to that 
 of the Hieron in Epidauria, built by Polycletus : and it had 
 this remarkable feature, that it was constructed upon the 
 sloping side of a stadium which was placed behind it ; so 
 that the two structures mutually sustained each other 3 . 
 Afterwards, entering the harbour, we landed to view the 
 two Doric pillars yet standing by the sea side ; these may 
 be the remains of the Temple of Venus, which stood near the 
 port principally frequented 4 : and JEgina, even for small 
 vessels, is elsewhere difficult of access, owing to its high 
 cliffs and latent rocks*. We saw none of the inhabitants; 
 but sent the Tchohadar in search of a pilot to conduct our 
 caique into the port of Epidauria. He returned with a man 
 
 who 
 
 (1) Travels in Greece, p. 15. Oxford, 177 6- 
 
 (2) OvToir ej rov KpvirTOv Ka.Xovp.Evov Xtpiva l(nr\svaa>; vvKTup, ettoIei yujza. ica- 
 tovto f.itv c'tepyaadev, rat re vfiuc etc pivEi. (Pausan. Corinth, c. 2Q. p. J 8C 
 Lips. 1696.) In a preceding passage of the same chapter it is stated, that the tomt 
 (Tu'<j)Oi) of Phocus, which is also called ^w/ia, was near to the /Eaceum : Tlupd Se ri 
 Aidxttov, <l>b)icov tU(J>oc \u>pa carl, k. t. X. The JEaceum was a tetragonal peribolus o: 
 white marble, in a conspicuous part of the city: Ev inityu.vzaTa.To 11 ->/c ttoXeox:, n 
 A.idKstov KaXvvpEvov, TTEpifioXos TZTpdyvvoc Xevkov Xidov. 
 
 (3) Vid. Pausan. Corinth, c. 29. p. 180. Lips. 1696. 
 
 (4) JlXtjviov Ze rov Xijlievoc, iv u paXiara 6pp.i£ovrai, NA02 E2TIN A<I>PO- 
 AITH2. Pausan. Corinth, c. 29. p. 1/9. Lips. 1696. 
 
 (5) WpornrXtvvai Cz AITINA iuTi vijauv ruv KXXtjviZuyv dnupMrarii. rnrpai Tt ydf 
 vfaXoiwEpl TTd<jav,Kal yoipdcE<; dvEOTriKaai. Pausan. Corinth, c. 29. p. 1 7^- Lips.\6()6 
 
ISLAND OF ANCHESTHI. 
 
 60/ 
 
 CHAP. XV. 
 
 Ignorance of 
 the Pilot. 
 
 who pretended to have a perfect knowledge of the coast, 
 and we took him on board ; leaving the two artists, both of 
 whom were already busied in drawing. 
 
 As we drew near to Peloponnesus, the mountains of 
 Argolis began to appear in great grandeur. We passed along 
 the northern shore of an island called by our mariners Anckesmuu. 
 Anchestri : it was covered with trees 6 . As the evening 
 drew on, we discovered that our stupid pilot, notwithstand- 
 ing all his boasting, knew no more of the coast than the 
 Casiot sailors. As soon as fogs or darkness begin to obscure 
 the land, the Greek pilots remain in total ignorance of their 
 situation : generally, losing their presence of mind, they either 
 run their ships ashore, or abandon the helm altogether and 
 have recourse to the picture of some Saint, supplicating his 
 miraculous interference for their safety. It more than once 
 happened to us, to have the responsibility of guiding the 
 vessel without mariner's compass, chart, or the slightest 
 knowledge of naval affairs. It may be supposed that under 
 such circumstances an infant would have been found equally 
 fit for the undertaking. This was pretty much the case upon 
 the present occasion : we were close in with a lee-shore : 
 fortunately, the weather was almost calm ; and our interpreter 
 Antonio, by much the best seaman of a bad crew, had 
 
 stationed 
 
 (6) The name of this island is written Angistri by D'Anville ; and by Mr. Gell, in 
 his valuable Map of Argolis : (See Itin. of Greece, PL xxvm. by W. Gell, Esq.M.A. 
 Member of the Society of Dilettanti. Lond. \8\0.J Chandler wrote it nearly as we 
 have done, Anchistre: (Trav. in Greece, p. 200. Oxf 1776.) he says it contained 
 " a few cottages of Albanians." 
 
MhilfeMWMMlMMBMMMtMiiSI 
 
 
 QI0w!lfM0HPIiSlHMcW9H9S9MiB9iv^BlMK9fi9fi 
 
 ■ 
 
 608 
 
 CHAP. XV. 
 
 PELOPONNESUS. 
 
 stationed himself in the prow of the caique, and continued 
 sounding as we drew nigh to the land. Presently, being 
 close in with the shore, we discerned the mouth of 
 a small cove; into which, by lowering our sails, and 
 taking to the oars, we brought the vessel ; and, heaving 
 out the anchor, determined to wait there until the next 
 
 morning. 
 
 When day-light appeared, we found ourselves in a wild 
 and desert place, without sign of habitation, or any trace of 
 a living being : high above us were rocks, and among these 
 flourished many luxuriant evergreens. We did not remain 
 to make farther examination of this part of the coast ; but 
 got the anchor up, and, standing out to sea, bore away 
 towards the south-west. We had not a drop of fresh water 
 on board, but drank wine as a substitute, and ate some 
 cold meat for our breakfast,— the worst beverage and the 
 worst food a traveller can use, who wishes, in this climate, 
 to prepare himself for the fatigue he must encounter. Our 
 pilot, being also refreshed with the juice of the grape, 
 affected once more to recognise every point of land, and 
 desired to know what port we wished to enter. Being 
 told that we were looking out for the harbour of Epidaurus, 
 or, as it is now called, IllAAYPO, he promised to take the 
 vessel safely in. It was at this time broad day-light, and we 
 thought we might venture under his guidance ; accordingly, 
 we were conducted into a small port nearly opposite to 
 Anchestri. Here we landed, at ten o'clock a. m. and ser.t 
 the Tchohadar to a small town, which the pilot said w*s 
 near to the port, to order horses. We were surprised ia 
 
 finding 
 
E P I A D A. 
 
 609 
 
 CHAP. XV. 
 
 finding but few ruins near the shore; nor was there any 
 appearance to confirm what he had said of its being Pidauro: 
 we saw, indeed, the remains of an old wall, and a marsh 
 filled with reeds and stagnant water, seeming to indicate the 
 former existence of a small inner harbour for boats that 
 had fallen to decay. The air of this place was evidently 
 unwholesome, and we were impatient to leave the spot. 
 When the Tchohadar returned with the horses, he began to 
 cudgel the pilot ; having discovered that Pidauro was farther 
 to the south-west ; this port being called EniAAA, pronounced 
 Epi-atha, the A sounding like our Th, harsh, as in thee and Epidda. 
 thou. It is laid down in some Italian maps under the name 
 of Plada. The pilot now confessed that he had never heard 
 of such a port as Pidauro in his life. As it would have 
 been a vain undertaking to navigate any longer under such 
 auspices, we came to the resolution of dismissing our caique 
 altogether. We therefore sent back the pilot to JEgina ; 
 ordering the good Captain to wait there with his vessel 
 for the return of Lusieri and the Calmuck ; and promising 
 him, if he conveyed them in safety to the Piraeus, to give 
 him, in addition to his stipulated hire, a silver coffee-cup, 
 to be made by an Athenian silversmith, and to be inscribed 
 with his name, as a token of our acknowledgments for 
 the many services he had done for us. The poor man 
 seemed to think this cup of much more importance than 
 any payment we had before agreed to make ; and we left 
 him, to commence our tour in the Peloponnesus. 
 
 The road from the port to the town of Epiada extends 
 vol. in. 4 i through 
 
m yv'-i.^'VV* xswt^i > 
 
 H3N9K9 R9IBIBI9 I^B^BSI BB fl^BS I9^VM 
 
 ■Sfiflfi mKBB mmNi 0IBS KHBli9SHw4i9l0^l9tfffl0VvlJHiPvPMPV 
 
 !■■■■ Wm 
 
 MMMMMM 
 
 610 
 
 PELOPONNESUS. 
 
 chap. xv. through olive-plantations and vineyards. The town itself 
 is situated upon a lofty ridge of rocks, and was formerly 
 protected by an old castle, still remaining. In conse- 
 quence of our inquiry after antient medals, several Venetian 
 coins were offered to us ; and the number of them found 
 here may serve to explain the origin of the castle, which 
 was probably built by the Venetians. But besides these 
 coins, the author purchased here, for twenty piastres, a most 
 
 Greek Medals, beautiful silver tetradrachm of Alexander the Great, as finely 
 preserved as if it had just issued from the mint ; together with 
 some copper coins of Megara. The Greek silver medals, as 
 it is well known, are often covered with a dark surface, 
 in some instances quite black, resembling black varnish : 
 the nature of this investment perhaps has not been duly 
 examined : it has been sometimes considered as a sulphuret ; 
 but the colour which sulphur gives to silver is of a more dingy 
 nature, inclining to grey : the black varnish is a muriat of 
 silver 1 . It may be decomposed by placing the medals in a 
 boiling solution of potass ; but antiquaries in general do not 
 choose to have the dark varnish removed. All Greek silver 
 coins are not thus discoloured ; many of them retain, in the 
 highest perfection, the natural colour and lustre of the metal: 
 those only exhibit the appearance of a black crust or varnish 
 which have been exposed to the action of muriatic acid, 
 either by immersion in sea water, or by coming into contact 
 
 with 
 
 (l) It once happened to the author to open a small case of silver medals that 
 had been sunk in sea-water. The medals had been separately enveloped in brown 
 
 paper, 
 
EPI ADA. 
 
 with it during the time that they have remained burred in 
 the earth. As it had been our original intention to land at 
 Epidaurus, to examine the remains of that city, so we 
 determined now to go first to that port ; but the people of 
 Epidda told us that there were scarcely any vestiges even of 
 ruins there : that all the antiquities we should find consisted 
 of a headless marble statue (answering to the description 
 given by Chandler 2 ) ; and that the remains of the Temple 
 of Msculapius, whom they called 'Ao-Kkavios, were near to 
 Ligurib. " There," said one of the inhabitants, " are the 
 Ruins of his Temple ; but the seat of his government 
 and his palace were at Epidaurus fPidauroJ, although 
 nothing now remains excepting a few broken pieces of 
 marble." The person who gave us this information seemed 
 to be possessed of more intelligence than it is usual to find 
 among the Greeks : we therefore profited by his instructions, 
 and set out for Ligurib. 
 
 The temperature on shore, this day at noon, was the same 
 as it had been upon the preceding day in the middle of 
 the gulph ; that is to say, 68° of Fahrenheit. It was four 
 
 o'clock 
 
 611 
 
 CHAP. XV. 
 
 paper, which was now become dry. To his great surprise, he found every one of them 
 covered with a fine impalpable powder, as white as snow. Placing them in a window, 
 the action of the sun's rays turned this powder to a dark colour : when a brush was 
 used to remove it, the silver became covered with a black shining varnish, exactly 
 similar to that which covers the antient silver coinage of Greece ; and this proved to 
 be a muriat of silver. 
 
 (2) Trav. in Greece, p. 221. Oxf. 1776. Chandler calls it " a maimed statue of 
 bad workmanship." 
 

 
 »»*w*J? WtjfiWf-SWJ »W*«B 8B?Wfl«Wi 
 
 ,*■> /*■".-.,-••' 
 
 V.- ...'»r, «»-.^:^<^;«f.^>. 
 
 612 
 
 CHAP. XV. 
 
 Arbutus 
 Andraehnc. 
 
 PELOPONNESUS. 
 
 o'clock p. m. before wc left Epidda. We noticed here .a 
 very remarkable mineral of a jet black colour, which at nrs;t 
 sight seemed to be coal, but, upon further examination, lit 
 rather resembled asphaltum. It was very soft, and, in places 
 where water had passed over it, the surface was polished. Thie 
 specimens being lost, this is all the description of it we cam 
 now give. Our journey from Epidda towards the interior 
 of Epidauria led us over mountains, and through the mos>t 
 delightful valleys imaginable. In those valleys we found thie 
 Arbutus Andrachjie, with some other species of the same genus 
 flourishing in the greatest exuberance, covered with flowers 
 and fruit. The fruit, in every thing but flavour and smell!, 
 resembled large hautbois strawberries : we found the berrie:s 
 to be cooling and delicious, and every one of our party ate 
 of them 1 . This shrub is found all over the Mediterranean : i t 
 attains to great perfection in Minorca; and from thence 
 eastward as far as the coast of Syria it may be found 
 adorning limestone rocks, otherwise barren, being never desti- 
 tute of its dark green foliage, and assuming its most glorious 
 appearance at a season when other plants have lost their 
 beauty. The fruit is one entire year in coming to maturity ; 
 and when ripe, it appears in the midst of its beautiful 
 flowers. The inhabitants of Argolis call this plant 
 Cuckoomari: in other parts of Turkey, particularly at 
 Constantinople, it is called Koomaria, which is very 
 
 near 
 
 (l) " Arbuteos foetus, montanaque fraga legebant." 
 

 AUGOirS. 
 
 613 
 
 near to its Greek name, Kofiugo?. It is the 'Avfyayyii of ^hap.xv.^ 
 Theophrastus. 
 
 We passed an antient edifice : it was near to a windmill, 
 in a valley towards the right of our road and at some 
 distance from us. Nothing could exceed the grandeur of Appearance of 
 
 . the Country. 
 
 the scenery during the rest of our ride to Ligurib. On 
 every side of us we beheld mountains reaching to 
 the clouds ; although we rode continually through deli- 
 cious valleys, covered by cultivated fields, or filled with 
 myrtles, flowering shrubs, and trees. Every fertile spot 
 seemed to be secluded from all the rest of the world, and 
 to be protected from storms by the lofty summits with 
 which it was surrounded. A white dress, worn by the 
 peasants, reminded us of the garments often seen upon 
 antient statues ; and it gave to these delightful retreats a 
 costume of the greatest simplicity, with the most striking 
 effect. Lusieri had spoken in rapturous terms of the country 
 he had beheld in Arcadia : but the fields, and the groves, 
 and the mountains, and the vales of Argolis, surpassed all 
 that we had imagined, even from his description of the finest 
 parts of the Peloponnesus. To render the effect of the 
 landscape still more impressive, shepherds, upon distant 
 hills, began to play, as it were an evening service, upon 
 their reed pipes ; seeming to realize the ages of poetic 
 fiction, and filling the mind with dreams of innocence, 
 which, if it dwell anywhere on earth, may perhaps be 
 found in these retreats, apart from the haunts of the 
 disturber, whose " whereabout" is in cities and courts, 
 amidst wealth and ambition and power. All that seems to 
 
 be 
 

 * ; I^NJ, H *J > 5,^.3. 
 
 i^(5!» ■iff*'^ «*»<"TF m^p^? 
 
 Ligurib. 
 
 PELOPONNESUS. 
 
 be drteadcd in these pastoral retreats, are the casual and 
 rare visits of the Turkish lords : and, unfortunately for us, 
 it was necessary that our arrival at Ligurib should be 
 announced by one of their agents ; namely, Ibrahim the 
 Tchohadar; who, though a very excellent man in his way, 
 had been brought up under a notion that Greeks and 
 Albanians were a set of inferior beings, whom it was 
 laudable to chastise upon every occasion, and to whom a 
 word should never be administered without a blow. It was 
 nearly dark when we reached the town ; if a long straggling 
 village may bear this appellation. Ibrahim rode first, and had 
 collected a few peasants around him, whom we could just 
 discern by their white habits, assembled near his horse. In 
 answer to his inquiries concerning provisions for the party, 
 they replied, in an humble tone, that they had consumed 
 all the food in their houses, and had nothing left to offer. 
 Instantly, the noise of Ibrahim's lash about their heads and 
 shoulders made them believe that he was the herald of a 
 party of Turks, and they fled in all directions : this was 
 " the only way," he said, " to make those misbegotten dogs 
 provide any thing for our supper." It was quite surprising 
 to see how such lusty fellows, any one of whom was more 
 than a match for Ibrahim, suffered themselves to be horse- 
 whipped and driven from their homes, owing to the dread 
 in which they hold a nation of stupid and cowardly 
 Mahometans. We should not have seen another Ligurian, 
 if Antonio had not intercepted some of the fugitives, and 
 pacified their fears, by telling them who the travellers 
 really were ; and that Englishmen would accept of nothing 
 
 from 
 
t, 1 G U R I O. 
 
 615 
 
 from their hands without an adequate remuneration. After chap. xv. 
 this assurance, several times repeated, and a present being 
 made to them of a few pards, we were conducted to what 
 is called a Condk, or inn; but in reality a wretched hovel, Condk, or inn. 
 where horses, asses, and cattle of every description, lodge 
 with a traveller beneath the same roof, and almost upon the 
 same rloor. A raised platform about twelve inches high, 
 forming a low stage, at one extremity of the building, is the 
 part appropriated to the guests; cattle occupying the other 
 part, which is generally the more spacious of the two. Want 
 of sleep makes a traveller little fastidious where he lies down; 
 and fatigue and hunger soon annihilate all those sickly sensi- 
 bilities which beset men during a life of indolence and 
 repletion. We have passed many a comfortable hour in 
 such places ; and when, instead of the Condk, we were 
 invited to the cleanly accommodation offered beneath the 
 still humbler shed of an Albanian peasant, the night was 
 spent in thankfulness and luxury. 
 
 Here, as at Epidda, the coins which were brought to 
 us, as antient medals, "were evidently Venetian ; some of 
 them had this legend, armata • et • morea • but without any 
 date. The Ligurians, like the inhabitants of Epidda, amused 
 us with traditionary stories of Asclapius, considering him as a 
 great king who had once reigned in Epidauria. Immense 
 plants of the Cactus Ficus Indica flourished about this place. 
 We set out for the sacred seat of ^Esculapius, at sun-rise. 
 The Ruins are situated at an hour's distance from Ligurib, at 
 a place now called Je'ro, pronounced Ye'ro, which is evidently 
 a corruption of 'Ugov (sacra cedes). Chandler converted this 
 
 word 
 
SEES 
 
 WS*v 'I7R?** 1 
 
 HHHHHi 
 
 ■I 
 
 ■ 
 
 616 
 
 PELOPONNESUS. 
 
 word J6ro into Gdrao, which is remarkable, considering his 
 usual accuracy. Our friend Mr. Gell, who was here after 
 our visit to the spot, and has published a description and plan 
 of the Ruins 1 , writes it Iero, as being nearer to the original 
 appellation. Circumstances of a peculiar nature have con- 
 spired to render these Ruins more than usually interesting. 
 The remains, such as they are, lie as they were left by the 
 antient votaries of the god : no modern buildings, not even 
 an Albanian hut, has been constructed among them to 
 confuse or to conceal their topography, as it generally happens 
 among the vestiges of Grecian cities : the traveller walks at 
 once into the midst of the consecrated Peribolus, and, from 
 the traces he beholds, may picture to his mind a correct 
 representation of this once celebrated ivatering- place — the 
 Cheltenham of Antient Greece — as it existed when thronged 
 by the multitudes who came hither for relief or relaxation. 
 Until within these few years, every vestige remained 
 which might have been necessary to complete a plan of 
 the antient inclosure and the edifices it contained 2 . The 
 Ligurians, in the time of Chandler, remembered the removal 
 of a marble chair from the theatre, and of statues and 
 inscriptions which were used in repairing the fortifications of 
 Nauplia, and in building a mosque at Argos 3 . The discovery 
 
 of 
 
 (1) Itinerary of Greece, p. 103. Lona. 1810. 
 
 (2) Mr. Gell, from the remains existing at the time of our visit to the place, did 
 afterwards complete a very useful Plan, as a Guide for Travellers, both of the inclosure 
 and its environs : this was engraved for his " Itinerary of Greece." See Plate facing 
 p. 10S of that work. Lend. IS 10. 
 
 (3) See Trav. in Greece, p. 226. Oxf. 1776. 
 

 LlGUlUO. 617 
 
 of a single marble chair, either within or near to almost every chap. xv. 
 one of the celebrated theatres of Greece, is a circumstance Cathedra of 
 
 a Greek 
 
 that has not been sufficiently regarded by those who are The atre. 
 desirous to illustrate the plan of these antient structures. We 
 afterwards found a relique of this kind at Chceronea, near 
 to the theatre ; whence it had only been moved to form part 
 of the furniture of a Greek chapel : another has been already 
 noticed in the description of Athens ; and the instances which 
 have been observed by preceding travellers it is unnecessary 
 now to enumerate. These chairs, as they have been called, 
 have all the same form ; consisting each of one entire massive 
 block of white marble, generally ornamented with fine 
 sculpture. Owing to notions derived either from Roman 
 theatres, or from the modern customs of Europe, they have 
 been considered as scats for the chief magistrates ; but even if 
 this opinion be consistent with the fact of there being one 
 Cathedra only in each theatre, it is contrary to the accounts 
 given of the places assigned for persons of distinction in 
 Grecian theatres, who w T ere supposed to have sate in the 
 Bouleuticon ; that is to say, upon the eight rows of benches 
 within the middle of the (KoTXov) Cavea of the theatre, 
 between the eighth and the seventeenth row 4 . How 
 little beyond the general form of a Greek theatre is really 
 known, maybe seen by reference to a celebrated work in 
 
 our 
 
 (-1) This is the part of a Greek theatre assigned for the flovXevriKov by Guilletiere, 
 
 {seep. 510, Ch. XII. of this Section,) who has founded his observations upon a careful 
 
 comparison of the accounts left by the Antients with the actual remains of the theatres 
 
 VOL. in. 4 K themselves. 
 
^^H ^^H ■■■■ '.vV'S 
 
 618 
 
 CHAP. XV. 
 
 PELOPONNESUS. 
 
 our own language 1 , written professedly in illustration of 
 
 the ''-Antiquities of Greece." Yet this author, upon the 
 
 subject of the \oyfiov, or Qvf/Axri, commonly translated by 
 
 the word pulpit, states, distinctly enough, that it stood 
 
 in the middle of the orchestra*; which, as far as we can 
 
 learn, is nearly the spot where these marble reliques have 
 
 been found : hence a question seems to arise, whether 
 
 they were not intended, each as a conspicuous place in the 
 
 orchestra of the theatre to which it belonged, for the 
 
 better exhibition of those performers who contested prizes 
 
 upon any musical instrument, or were engaged in any 
 
 trial of skill, where one person only occupied the attention 
 
 of the audience. The sculpture upon one of them, as thrice 
 
 represented in the third volume of Stuart's Antiquities of 
 
 Athens 3 , seems to favour this idea of their use; because its 
 
 ornaments are actually those prizes wmich were bestowed 
 
 upon successful candidates ; — a vessel of the oil produced 
 
 by the olive-tree that grew in the Academia; and three 
 
 wreaths, or chaplets, with which victors at the Panathenaa 
 
 were crowned. 
 
 Proceeding 
 
 themselves. Bat Potter, and after him other authors who have written upon Grecim 
 Antiquities, consider the lowest part of the coilon as the place appropriated to 
 the seats of the magistrates 5 which agrees with a custom still retained in sone 
 countries, particularly in Sweden. In the theatre at Stockholm, the King and Quen 
 gate, in two chairs, in the pit, in front of the orchestra. For the fiovXevriKov, tie 
 reader is referred to Aristophanes, and to Julius Pollux, lib. iv. c. 19. 
 
 (1) Archaeologia Gracca, by John Potter, D.D. Archbishop of Canterbury. 
 
 (2) See vol.1, p. 42. Lond. 1/51. 
 
 (3) See Stuart's Athens, vol. III. pp. 19, 29. " Whether they have been seats or 
 a magistrate in a court of judicature, or of officers in a Gymnasium, is not easlj 
 determined from their situation." Ibid. p. 25. Lond. 179-4. 
 
cohoki; 
 
 619 
 
 Proceeding southward from Lignrib, we soon arrived chap. xv. 
 at a small village called Coroni\ whose inhabitants were cormi. 
 shepherds. Here we noticed a noble race of dogs, similar 
 to the breed found in the province of Abruzzo in Italy ; 
 and it is somewhat singular that the very spot which still 
 bears an appellation derived from the name of the mother of 
 /Esculapiiis should be now remarkable for the particular kind 
 of animal materially connected with his history. It was a 
 shepherd's dog who guarded the infant god when exposed 
 upon Mount Titthion*. We bought a young one, for ten 
 piastres, of great size and beauty. It resembled a wolf, with 
 shining black hair. To complete all the circumstances of 
 analogy, they had given to it the name of YLogdxi, as if in 
 memory of the xoguZ which Apollo set to watch Coro?iis after 
 she became pregnant. Cordki proved a useful companion to 
 us afterwards ; as he always accompanied our horses, and 
 protected us from the attacks of the large dogs swarming in 
 the Turkish towns and villages, and constantly assailing a 
 traveller upon his arrival : indeed, sometimes it became a 
 
 question 
 
 (4) " Possibly an antient name taken from the Nymph Cor on is, the mother of 
 'JEsculapius." (Cell's Itinerary of Greece, p. 103. Lond. 1810.) It were to be 
 wished that this industrious traveller would complete the design originally announced by 
 the appearance of this publication, and extend it to the rest of Greece, all of which has 
 been visited and accurately surveyed by him. Such a work, to use his own words, 
 "although it le only calculated to become a look of reference, and not of general 
 entertainment," would be really useful ; and its value would be felt, if not by an 
 indolent reader at his fire-side, yet by the active and enterprising scholar, who wishes 
 to be guided in his researches throughout these interesting regions. 
 
 (5) A shepherd's dog was represented as an accompaniment to the statue of the 
 God, of ivory and gold, in his temple. 
 

 The Hieron. 
 
 Mow) tains. 
 
 PELOPONNESUS. 
 
 question with us, whether Ibrahim or Cor ah i were the most 
 intelligent and useful Tchohadar. 
 
 At Coroni, turning towards the east, we had the first 
 sight of the Hiekon. Its general disposition may have been 
 anticipated by the Reader, in the description already given 
 of the features of Epidauria. It is a small and beautiful 
 valley, surrounded by high mountains ; one of superior 
 magnitude bounding the prospect on its eastern side. This, 
 from its double summit, consisting of two rounded eminences, 
 may be the mamillary mountain, thence called Titthion, by 
 Pausanias 1 , from nrOog ; which word, among a great variety of 
 other instances proving the common origin of the two lan- 
 guages 2 , we have retained in our word teat ; now becoming 
 obsolete. In this valley were the sacred grove 3 , and Sanc- 
 tuary of Msculapius, together with numerous baths, temples, a 
 Stadium, a Theatre, and some medicinal springs and wells ; the 
 remains of all which may still be severally discerned. The 
 first artificial object that appeared after we left Coroni. 
 
 was 
 
 (l) "0/0/7 cc tlaiv V7rlp to a\ao<;, to ti TIT0IOY, ical erepov dvofxaZ6utvo> 
 KvvopTtov, MaXta'roj/ cf 'Atto'XXwvoc ispov ev civt<o. Pausan. Corinth, c. 2/ . pp 
 175. Lips. 1696. 
 
 (2) The nation from whom the Greeks were descended, and the eailiest settlers h 
 Britain, spoke dialects of the same language. The numberless proofs that might b^ 
 adduced of this are foreign to the object of this publication 3 but, as to an authority fo" 
 the common origin of the two colonies, the author is proud to refer to his Grandfathers 
 learned work on " the Connection of the Roman and Saxon Coins ;" — a work that was 
 highly prized by the greatest Grecian scholar England ever had ; namely, the illustrious 
 Poison ; whose frequent illustrations and evidences of the fact here alluded to are recen 
 in the recollection of all who knew him. 
 
 (3) To t£ 'It ( ooV dXrrot; tov 'AfficXtpriov 7r£ptc\ovcriv opoi TravTcevddev, pausania 
 Corinthiaca, c. 2/. p. 1/2. Lips. 1696. 
 
 ■^-'-^ 
 
II I E R O N. 
 
 621 
 
 was a considerable Ruin, somewhat resembling a castle, at chap. xv. 
 a short distance in the valley upon our right. Upon closer 
 inspection, it proved to be a Roman edifice of brick-work, 
 and of a square form ; possibly one of the benefactions of 
 Antoninus Pius, who, while ^ Roman senator, erected here 
 an hospital for the reception of pregnant women and dying 
 persons, that were before always removed out of the 
 Peribolus*, to be delivered, or to expire in the open air. 
 Farther on we perceived the traces of a large building, 
 divided into several chambers, and stuccoed ; and it is known 
 that the same senator also built the Bath of JEscalapius, 
 besides making other donations. We soon came to what 
 we supposed to have been the ground-plot of the Temple: Temple of 
 its remains are seen only at one extremity, but the oblong 
 plane upon which this immense fabric stood is clearly marked 
 out by the traces of its foundations. We had no sooner 
 arrived, than we were convinced that the time we proposed to 
 dedicate to these Ruins would by no means prove adequate 
 to any proper survey of them : we found enough to 
 employ the most diligent traveller during a month, instead 
 of a single day. Near to the temple is the Stadium; and its 
 appearance illustrates a disputed passage in Pausanias*, for 
 it consisted principally of high banks of earth, which were 
 
 only 
 
 &sculaj>ius. 
 
 Stadh 
 
 (•l) Oi'd a-odvijaKovaiv, ovii tiktovgiv at .yvvaiKEg a<j)iaiv ivrog rov 7reptf3d\ov. 
 Pausaniae Corinthiaca, ib. 
 
 (5) Vid. Pausan. Corinth, c. 2?. p. 173. lib. xiy. cum Annot. Xyland. et Sylb* 
 Edit. Kuhnii. Lips. lGyO. 
 
■■■■ 
 
 ■■■■■■■■■■■■■■I 
 
 Theatre. 
 
 Architectural 
 Terra cottas. 
 
 PELOPONNESUS. 
 
 only partially covered with seats. We observed here a sub- 
 terraneous vaulted passage, now choked with rubbish, which 
 conducted into its area 1 , on the left side of it, and near to the 
 principal entrance. This Stadium has fifteen rows of seats ; 
 but the seats are only at the upper end of the structure : the 
 rest is of earth, heaped so as to form its sides. The Theatre 
 is farther on towards the mountains, on the right hand; 
 and it is one of the most remarkable in all Greece; not 
 only from the state in which it remains, but in being men- 
 tioned by Patisanias as a work of Polycletus, renowned for 
 excelling all other architects in the harmony and beauty of his 
 structures*. We found a subterraneous building, resembling 
 a small chapel, without being able even to conjecture for 
 what purpose it was constructed, unless it were for a bath. 
 Near to it we saw also a little stone coffin, containing frag- 
 ments of terra-cotta vases : it had perhaps been rifled by the 
 peasants, and the vases destroyed, in the hope of discovering 
 hidden treasure. But the most remarkable reliques within 
 the sacred precinct were architectural remains in terra cotta. 
 We found the ornaments of a frieze, and part of the cornice 
 of a temple, which had been manufactured in earthenware. 
 Some of these ornaments had been moulded for relievos ; and 
 others, less perfectly baked, exhibited painted surfaces. The 
 
 colours 
 
 (1) Chandler says, it was a private way, by which the Agonothetce, or Presidents, 
 with the priests and persons of distinction, entered. Sec Trav. in Greece, p. 225. 
 
 (2) 'Apfioviac he f) tcdWovs t'lveKa, dp\tTiKTo>v 7roto<; ic ajtiWav YIoXvkXcitu 
 ycvoiT 1 av d'£toy£psuc; TIoXvkXzitos ydp Kai Oiarpov rovro, KCtt (HKTjua to irtpiytpis 
 6 7roitj(ras rjv. Pausaniae Corinthiaca, c. 27- p. 174. Lips. l6g6. 
 
— — — M l ■■_ 
 
 

 HIERON. 
 
 623 
 
 colours upon the latter still retained much of their original chap , xv. 
 freshness: upon being wetted with water, they appeared 
 as vivid as when they were first laid on ; resembling the 
 painted surfaces of those "pictured urns" (as they were 
 termed by our English Pindar) upon which it is now usual 
 to bestow the appellation of " Grecian vases" The won- 
 derful state of preservation manifested by the oldest painted 
 terra cottas of Greece has been supposed to be owing to the 
 circumstance of their remaining in sepulchres where the 
 atmospheric air was excluded : but these ornaments were 
 designed for the outside of a temple, and have remained for 
 ages exposed to all the changes of weather, upon the surface 
 of the soil. In the description before given of the Memphian 
 Sphinx, another striking example was adduced, proving 
 through what a surprising lapse of time antient painting 
 has resisted decomposition : and if the period of man's 
 existence upon earth would admit of the antiquity ascribed 
 by Plato to certain pictures in Egypt, there would have 
 been nothing incredible in the age he assigned to them 9 . 
 The colours upon these terra cottas were a bright straw- 
 yellow and red. The building to which they belonged is 
 mentioned by Pausanias ; and to increase the interest excited 
 by the discovery of these curious remains, we found the 
 same passage of that historian cited by Winhelmann, to 
 prove that such materials were used in antient architecture 4 . 
 
 After 
 
 (3) See p. 149, Chap. IV. of this Section. "The walls of great edifices," says 
 Pauw, (ibid.) " when once paintedj remained so for ever." 
 
 (4) Histoire de l'Art chez les Anciens, torn. II. p, 544. Paris, An 2. 
 
^m 
 
 ;,97.',k 
 
 HB^^^B^S ' ? BBB9BBSBBBBBBBH BBBB ■^■^^■v^^^H I 
 
 624 
 
 CHAP. XV. 
 
 Temple of the 
 
 Coryphcean 
 
 Diana. 
 
 PELOPONNESUS. 
 
 After describing the Theatre, the Stadium, and other edifices. 
 Pansanias adds 1 : " The Hieron once contained a portico 
 {a-rocC), called that of Cotys; but the roof falling in, caused 
 the destruction of the whole edifice, owing to the nature of 
 its materials, which consisted of crude tiles." 
 
 We then went, by an antient road, to the top of a hill 
 towards the east, and found upon the summit the remains of a 
 temple, with steps leading to it yet remaining : there is reason 
 to believe this to have been the Temple of the Coryphcean 
 Diana, upon Mount Cynortium, from the circumstance of an 
 Inscription which we discovered upon the spot. It is imper- 
 fect ; but it mentions a priest of Artemis, of the name oiApota- 
 tilius, who had commemorated his safety from some disorder : 
 
 APTEMI AOCAP 
 OTATEI AIOCCCJUN 
 
 EPAHOAHACTOC 
 
 By the side of this temple there was a bath, or reservoir, 
 lined with stucco, thirty feet by eight, with some Lu- 
 machella columns of the Doric order : the foundations 
 and part of the pavement of the temple yet exist, and 
 these are not less than sixty paces in extent : we noticed 
 some channels grooved in the marble, for conveying water 
 in different directions. The traces of buildings may be 
 observed upon all the mountains which surrounded the 
 
 sacred 
 
 (l) Kcu %v yap crrod Ka\ovpkvr\ KoVi/oc, Karabpiftvros ci ol rov opocbov, Ficddapro 
 rj^rj nana, are aprjs rrj<; irXivdov rrotrjQeiffa. Pausan. Corintbiaca, C. 2"J . p. \J\, 
 Lips. I696. 
 
 feJIft^ar 
 
HIERON. 
 
 625 
 
 sacred valley ; and over all this district their remains are as chap. xv. 
 
 various as their history is indeterminate. Some of them 
 
 seem to have been small sanctuaries, like chapels ; others 
 
 appear as baths, fountains, and aqueducts. The Temple of 
 
 the Coryphcean Diana is mentioned by Pausanias 2 ; and 
 
 being identified with this ruin, it may serve to establish a 
 
 point of observation for ascertaining the edifices described 
 
 by the same author as in its neighbourhood. It was upon the 
 
 summit of Cynortium; and had been noticed by Telesilla in 
 
 her poems. We next came to a singular and very picturesque Temple of 
 
 structure, with more the appearance of a cave than of a P ° 
 
 building. It was covered with hanging weeds, overgrown 
 
 with bushes, and almost buried in the mountain : the interior 
 
 of it exhibited a series of circular arches, in two rows, 
 
 supporting a vaulted roof; the buttresses between the arches 
 
 being propped by short columns. Possibly this may have 
 
 been the building which Chandler, in his dry way, called 
 
 "a Church" without giving any description of it; where, 
 
 " besides fragments, he found an Inscription to far-darting 
 
 " Apollo*.*' He supposes the Temple of Apollo which was 
 
 upon Mount Cynortium to have stood upon this spot. 
 
 Below this mountain, by the northern side of a water-course, circular 
 now dry, and rather above the spot where it discharged itself 
 
 into 
 
 (2) E7rt Be Tt] ukoci tov opovs, Kopv(j>aia<; larlv lepou , Apre/nido<;, ofi teal TeXiaiWa 
 eTTOujaaro iv aafxarL fxvrfjxt]v. Pausan. Corinth, c. 28. p. 175. Lips. \6q6. 
 
 (3) See the Vignette to this Chapter. The arches may be as old as the time of 
 Pausanias. The Inscription mentioned by Chandler is as follows : " Diogenes the 
 hierophant, to far-darting Apollo, on account of a vision in his sleep." Trav. in 
 Greece, p. 225. Oxf 1776. 
 
 VOL. III. 4 L 
 
^^■■■1 ■■■■■■■ 
 
 626 
 
 CHAP. XV. 
 
 Theatre of 
 Potycletus. 
 
 PELOPONNESUS. 
 
 into the valley, is a small building of a circular form, 
 covered by a dome, with arches round the top. We found 
 a few imperfect Inscriptions, one of which mentions Hiero- 
 phants, or Priests of Mars, (Uv^^oi,) dedicating some votive 
 offering. All that we could trace were these letters : 
 
 I APE 
 
 <t> AHN 
 PYP*OPO 
 AN E0H K A 
 
 The circular building is too modern in its aspect, and 
 too mean in its materials, for the Tholus of Pausanias 1 , 
 of white marble, built by Polycletus, architect of the 
 theatre; but it may perhaps correspond better with the 
 fountain which he alludes to, as remarkable for its roof 
 and decorations-; this kind of roof being almost unknown 
 
 in Greece. 
 
 l, ■u:, 
 
 i lit Dunaing, although smaller, bears some 
 
 mil- 
 
 resemblance to the well-known hath, improperly called the 
 Temple of Venus at Baice. 
 
 Hence we repaired to the Theatre, now upon our left 
 hand, but upon the right to those entering the Hieron from 
 Coroni, that is to say, upon its southern side'. Chandler 
 
 speaks 
 
 (1) Oiicrffia Se 7rspi(j>£pL<; XiOov \£vkov KaXovptvov ©OA02, uKocd^Tai 7r\t)(T,oi>, 
 6cas afyov. Pausaniae Corinthiaca, c. 27. p. 173. Lips. 1696. 
 
 (2) KcU Kfitjvr] TU> T£ dpotyw KCtl KdlTflU) TU> Xoi7TU) (}£OtC ullCl. Ibid. p. 174. 
 
 (3) 'ETTidavpioie vi inn diarpop 'EN THI 'IEPftl, ftdXierra ipol Bokbiv dcu<; a&v. 
 (Ibid.) This expression of Pausanias, " Within the Hieron," or sacred precinct, has 
 been by some preposterously rendered " Within the Temple." A Theatre witbls a 
 Temple ! ! ! 
 

 II I E It O N. 627 
 
 speaks of its "marble seats" as " overgrown with bushes 4 :" t CHAP - xv -, 
 we found those seats to consist of common limestone, a 
 difference of little moment; but as we paid particular atten- 
 tion to the dimensions and figure of this splendid structure, 
 one of the most entire of all the Grecian theatres, and in its 
 original and perfect state one of the most magnificent 5 , so 
 we shall be very particular in giving an account of it. 
 We found it tenanted by a variety of animals, which were 
 disturbed at our approach, — hares, red-legged partridges, 
 and tortoises : our new acquaintance Cordki, accompa- 
 nied by his former master, a descendant of the goat-herd 
 Aresthanas, bounded among the seats, and, driving them from 
 their haunts, soon put us into sole possession. But an 
 animal of a very different nature was dragged from his 
 lurking-place by Mr. Cripps; who, delighted by the dis- 
 covery he had made, came running with an extraordinary Epidaurian 
 snake which he had caught among some myrtles, and held 
 writhing in his hands. It was of a bright yellow colour, 
 shining like burnished gold, about a yard in length, such as 
 none of us had seen before. The peasants, however, knew 
 it to be a species of harmless serpent, which they had 
 
 been 
 
 (4) Trav. in Greece, p. 225. Oxf. 1776. 
 
 (5) This is evident from the manner in which it'is always mentioned by Pausanias, 
 who speaks of the comparative magnificence and architectural skill shewn in other 
 theatres, with reference to this of Polycletus in Epidauria. Thus, when he is giving 
 an account of a theatre in JEgina, he says of it, Qiarp6t> hrc deas ci^iov, Kara to 
 "E^-icavpiuv fxd\i<TTa fxiyiQoQ kuI ipyaaiav Tt)v XourTJy. Pausan. Corinth, c. 29. p. 180. 
 Lips. 1696. 
 
^^H 
 
 ■■■■ fwfm ww 
 
 mm: 
 
 Aspect of 
 the Ooilon. 
 
 PELOPONNESUS. 
 
 been accustomed to regard with tenderness, and even with 
 superstitious veneration; telling us it would be unlucky in 
 any one who should do it injury. It was, in fact, one of 
 the curious breed described by Pausanias, as peculiar to the 
 country of the Epidauriaiis, being always harmless, and of 
 a yellow colour'. We could not, however, assist Mr. Cripps 
 in its preservation ; no one of our party being able to divest 
 himself sufficiently of a very common antipathy for serpents : 
 and the consequence was, that being unwilling to put it to 
 death, and the peasants wishing for its release, he suffered 
 it to escape. 
 
 The Coiion of this theatre, as usual, has been scooped in 
 the side of a mountain ; but it faces the north. As the sea 
 could not enter into the perspective, which seems to have 
 been a general aim of the architects by whom such structures 
 were planned throughout Greece, this position of the 
 theatre may have been designed to afford it as much shade 
 as its situation was capable of receiving. Its northern aspect, 
 and the mountain towering behind it, must have protected 
 the whole edifice, during a great portion of the day, from 
 the beams of the sun ; and we may suppose this to have been 
 a consideration, rather than any circumstance of expediency 
 as to the mountain itself, because the whole circumference 
 of the Peribolus afforded declivities equally well adapted to 
 the purpose of constructing a theatre : and it is also well 
 
 known 
 
 (1) ApUKOl'Ttr ( I ul \0lTT0i Kdl'tTtpOV yiVOS h TO '^avQoTEpOV pilTOVTCi "XpOat, tfX't 
 
 uiv tuv A(TK\>i7nov vofii£ovrat, kcii eiffiv uvdpuiTron; ijpupoi' Tpi<f>£i os fiovi] trtycs >< 
 tmv yJ £jwuii\ i.oiwi' yij. Pausaniae Corinthiaca, c. 28. p. 1/5. Lips. 1696. 
 
HIERON. 
 
 known that the Greeks were frequently obliged to carry 
 umbrellas (<nctuhia) with them into their theatres ; sub- 
 mitting to their incumbrance, rather than remain exposed to 
 the sun's rays. The women upon such occasions were also 
 attended by their umbrella-bearers (o-Ktufaqtogot)*; and this 
 custom, from the increase it occasioned in the throng, added 
 to the embarrassment caused among the audience by the 
 number of umbrellas intercepting the view of the stage, must 
 have rendered a shaded theatre a very desirable acquisition. 
 Indeed we know that, upon some occasions, temporary 
 sheds and large awnings were erected for the convenience 
 of the spectators. Every provision of this kind was doubly 
 necessary in the Hieron ; by its nature sultry, owing to its 
 surrounding mountains, and filled with inhabitants selected 
 from all the invalids of Greece, — the feeble, the enervated, 
 the effeminated votaries of the God, — vainly seeking in these 
 retreats a renovation of exhausted nature ; or aged and infirm 
 persons, anxiously looking for some gleam of cheerfulness, 
 wherewith to gladden the termination of a career that knew 
 no hope beyond the grave. It is evident that the disposition 
 of this popular place of amusement was arranged with luxury 
 as well as convenience; for, in addition to the shade it 
 offered, the salutary waters of the Hieron flowed in the 
 deep bed of a torrent immediately beneath its front 3 . With 
 regard to the theatre itself, ftie Scene, or, as it has been 
 
 sometimes 
 
 629 
 
 CHAP. XV. 
 
 (2) iElian. Hist. Var. lib. vi. c. 1. Lips. 17SO. 
 
 (3) It is impossible to multiply the number of engravings so often as the insufficiency 
 of a written description renders their aid requisite ; but the Reader is particularly referred 
 
 to 
 
630 
 
 PELOPONNESUS. 
 
 CHAP. XV. 
 
 Perfect state 
 of the 
 structure. 
 
 sometimes improperly called, the Proscenion 1 , has totally 
 disappeared; and as it was here that Polycletus probably 
 exhibited the greatest proof of those architectural talents so 
 highly extolled by Pausanias, the loss of it is highly to be 
 regretted : but such is the entire state of the structure within 
 the Cotton, that not one of the seats is either missed or 
 imperfect. Owing to their remarkable preservation, we 
 were enabled to measure, with the greatest accuracy, the 
 diameter of the Conistra, and the dimensions of all the parts 
 appropriated to the spectators. There is something remark- 
 able even in the position of the seats : their surface is not 
 perfectly horizontal ; the architect has given to them a slight 
 inclination, perhaps that water might not rest upon them 
 during rain. The section of these seats would exhibit a 
 profile of this kind : 
 
 By 
 
 to a view of this Theatre, of the torrent's course, which is now dry, and of the whole 
 Hieron, as engraved from a drawing made upon the spot by W. Gell, Esq. See 
 Itinerary of Greece, Plate 22. p. 104. Lond. IS 10. 
 
 (1) This name applies only to the Stage of a Greek theatre. 
 
HIERON.' 
 
 631 
 
 By a simple contrivance, which is here visible, the seats of ^chap.xv. 
 the spectators were not upon a level with the places for the Dimensions 
 feet of those who sate behind them; a groove, eighteen the parts! ° 
 inches wide, and about two inches deep, being dug in the 
 solid mass of stone whereof each seat consisted, expressly for 
 the reception of the feet; and this groove extended behind 
 every row of spectators, all around the theatre; by which 
 means their garments were not trampled upon by persons 
 seated above them. The width of each seat was fourteen 
 inches, and its perpendicular elevation sixteen inches. The 
 number of the seats, counted as steps from the Conistra or 
 Pit, to the top of the Coilon, was fifty-six 2 : in the same 
 direction from the Pit, upwards, the semicircular ranges of 
 the seats were intersected at right angles by above twenty 
 flights of little stairs ; each flight being twenty-eight inches 
 and a half wide, and each step exactly half the height 
 of one of the benches : these, crossing the several rows 
 from the Pit upwards, enabled persons to ascend to the top 
 of the theatre, without incommoding the spectators when 
 seated. Guilleiiere, speaking of such stairs, says, that 
 near to them were passages leading to the outer porticoes, 
 by which the spectators entered to take their places 3 . He 
 seems to have founded this notion upon the plan of a Roman 
 theatre, the view of which he has given in his work 4 . We 
 
 do 
 
 (2) Mi. Gell says fifty-five. 
 
 (3) See Chap. XII. p. 510, of this Vol. line 15. 
 
 (4) Sec Plate facing p. 1, from a design by Guillet ; engraved by Gobille, " Athenes 
 ancienne et modcrne." Parts, ].675. 
 
632 
 
 PELOPONNESUS. 
 
 chap, xv. do n ot remember ever to have seen in Grecian theatres any 
 such retreats or entrances, near to the little stairs for crossing 
 the benches : the entrances to a Greek theatre were either 
 vaulted passages at the sides, near to what we should call 
 the stage-boxes, or in the exterior front of the Scene, behind 
 the stage itself 1 . Many authors speak of those porticoes, as 
 being erected behind the Cavea ; which, as applied to the 
 theatres of Greece, is ridiculous 2 ; for what can be more 
 absurd than to tell of buildings behind seats, which were 
 either integral parts of a mountain, or were adapted to its 
 solid surface. The porticoes to which the audience retired 
 for shelter, in rainy weather, must have had a different 
 situation. The whole of the Cotton, or Cavea, that is to say, 
 of the seats taken altogether, was separated into two parts, 
 an upper and a lower tier, by a diazoma or corridor, half 
 way from the top, running parallel to the rows of seats; and 
 in this, as upon a platform, there was space from one extre- 
 mity of the circular arch to the other. The two parts of a 
 theatre thus separated are perhaps all that Vitruvius intended 
 by the "two distinct elevations of the rows of benches," 
 which Guilletiere complained of being unable to reconcile 
 with anything now remaining of antient theatres 3 . The 
 diameter of the Conistra, or Pit, taken in the widest part, is 
 
 one 
 
 (1) See a View of the Theatre at Telmessus, Chap. VIII. of the former Section, 
 facing p. 236. Broxhourne, Second Edit. 
 
 (2) See Potter's Archaeolog. Graec. vol.1, p. 42. Land. 1751. Har wood's Gnec. 
 Antiq. p. 18. Lond. 1801, &c. &c. 
 
 (3) See p. 508, line 13. Chap. XII. of this Volume. 
 
LESSA. 
 
 633 
 
 one hundred and five feet ; but as the circular arch of the 
 Theatre is greater than a semicircle, the width of the 
 orchestra, that is to say, the chord of the arch, is barely equal 
 to ninety feet 4 . Facing the Theatre, upon the opposite 
 bank of the bed of the torrent before mentioned, are the 
 foundations of an edifice of considerable size : but it were 
 endless to enumerate every indistinct trace of antient build- 
 ings within this celebrated valley; nor would such a detail 
 afford the smallest portion of satisfactory information. With 
 the description of the Theatre we shall therefore conclude 
 our observations upon the Hieron ; hoping that nothing- 
 worthy of consideration has been omitted, respecting one of 
 the most perfect structures of the kind in all Greece. 
 
 We returned by the way of Coroni ; and near to Ligurib 
 took a western course in the road leading towards Nauplia, 
 the antient port of Argos*. After journeying for about an 
 hour, through a country resembling many parts of the 
 Apennines, we saw a village near the road, with a ruined 
 castle upon a hill, to the right, where the remains of Lessa 
 are situated. This village is half way between Ligurib and 
 Nauplia ; and here was the antient boundary between Epi- 
 dauria and the Argive territory 6 . Those Ruins have not yet 
 been visited by any traveller : indeed, there is much to be 
 
 done 
 
 CHAP. XV. 
 
 Journey to 
 Nauplia. 
 
 Lessa. 
 
 (4) Mr. Gell states it as equal to eighty-nine feet. See Itin. of Greece, p. 108. Lond. 
 IS 10. 
 
 (5) 'H NATnAIA, 70 ruv 'Apytiav vavaradfxov. Strab. Geog. lib. viii. p. 505. 
 ed. Oxon. 1807. 
 
 (6) Kara tie rrjv Atjaaav tytTai rr}<; 'Apyeias >/ 'JLnihavpiav. Paus. Corinth. 
 c. 26. p. 169. Lips. 1696. 
 
 VOL. III. 4 M 
 

 y*; i®y& 
 
 634 
 
 CHAP. XV. 
 
 Dorian and 
 Egyptian An- 
 tiquities. 
 
 PELOPONNESUS. 
 
 done throughout Argolis : this country, particularly, merits 
 investigation. The antiquities that occurred in our route 
 were principally of a sepulchral nature, near to the antient 
 road leading from Nauplia towards Lessa and Epidaurus; but 
 so peculiarly characterized, as to form and structure, that it 
 is evident they were the works of the earliest colonies 
 in Peloponnesus, and probably of Dorian origin. One 
 of these monuments is decidedly mentioned by Pausanias, 
 as we shall presently shew; the only author to whom 
 we can refer for information concerning this part of the 
 Peloponnesus. Strabo makes but few remarks upon the 
 Argivc territory; and even these are delivered from the 
 observations of Artemidorus and Apollodorus ; not having 
 himself visited the spot 1 . We passed some tombs that 
 were remarkable in having large rude stones, of a square 
 form, placed upon their tops; a custom alluded to by 
 Pausanias in the description he has given of the tumulus 
 raised by Telamon upon the shore of JEgina, near to 
 the JEaceum. The foa^a) heap had upon the top of it 
 (xidog r^xk) " a rugged stone," once used, according to a 
 tradition in the second century, by Peleus and Telamon, 
 as a discus, with which Peleus slew Phocus during a game of 
 quoits*. It has been a common notion everywhere, that 
 antient heroes were men of gigantic stature. The fable, 
 
 therefore, 
 
 (1) "ETrieavpos, w< , Aprefxicup6c ^aiv. 'ArroWdLipog $i, k. t. X. Shab. Geog. 
 lib. mi. pp. 534, 535. edit. Oxon. 1807. 
 
 (2) Vid. Pausan. in Corinthiac. c.29. pp. 179. 180. Lips. 1 696. 
 
ARGOLIS. 
 
 635 
 
 therefore, as related to Pausanias by the Mginetans, is of little ^chap xv. 
 moment ; but the fact of a stone so placed is sufficient to 
 prove that such a substitute for the Stele was found upon a 
 Dorian tumulus of very remote antiquity; and the observation 
 of the historian is in some measure confirmed by the exis- 
 tence of similar tombs in Argolis corresponding with his 
 description of the mound in Mgina ; the Dorians having 
 possessed this island and the Argive territory nearly twelve 
 centuries before the Christian aera : at that time the Pelo- 
 ponnesus was the principal seat of their power, and by them 
 the city of Megara was then founded. Upon the left-hand 
 side of the road we also observed an Egyptian sepulchre, 
 having a pyramidal shape ; and agreeing so remarkably, both 
 as to form and situation, with a monument mentioned by 
 Pausanias, that we believed ourselves to be actually viewing 
 the identical tomb seen by him 3 . He supposes the traveller 
 coming in a contrary direction from the line of our 
 route ; that is to say, from Argos towards Epidauria; and in 
 so doing he describes a pyramidal structure as being upon 
 the rifyJit of the observer. It contained, he says 4 , shields 
 of an Argolic form ; for a battle had once been fought in the 
 place, between the armies of Prcetus and Acrisius, upon 
 which occasion shields were first used, and those who fell 
 
 on 
 
 (3) 'EpxofiivOK; 3' g "Apyovs k r>/v TSeritavp'tav, tort* ohoUpi^a h fc&f 
 vvpaiilli pdXiora ekdtrfisvoy, c.r. X. Pans. Corinth, c.25. p. 168. Lips. 1696. 
 
 (4) Ibid. 
 

 w*p mm 
 
 Arachneeus 
 Mom. 
 
 PELOPONNESUS. 
 
 on either side were here buried in one common sepulchre. 
 However, he is evidently describing a sepulchre nearer to 
 Argos ; for he adds, that upon quitting the spot, and turning 
 towards the right hand, the Ruins of Tiryns appear ': there- 
 fore the pyramidal form may have been common to many 
 antient sepulchres in Argolis. Lessa was hut a village in the 
 time of Pausanias 2 , as it now is : but it was remarkable for a 
 temple and wooden image 3 of Minerva ; and upon the moun- 
 tain above the village, perhaps where the castle now stands, 
 there were altars of Jupiter and Juno, whereon sacrifices- 
 were offered in times of drought 4 . The mountain then bore 
 the name of Arachneeus: its antient appellation, under 
 Inachus, had been Sapyselat.6n b . 
 
 During this part of our journey the more distant moun- 
 tains of the Morea appeared extremely lofty, elevating their 
 naked summits into the pure aether, with uncommon sub- 
 limity. The road led through a mountain pass that had 
 been strongly fortified. We saw everywhere proofs of the 
 fertility of the soil* in the more open valleys, plantations of 
 pomegranate and mulberry trees; and even amidst the most 
 rocky situations there sprouted myrtles, beautiful heaths, and 
 flowering shrubs, among which sheep and goats were 
 
 browsing 
 
 (1) Ylpotouat Sc hrevdiy kcii EKTpaireiffiv h Sefydv, Tipvvdut; iertv eptiwta. Pausan. 
 Corinth, c. 25. p. 169. Lips. 1696. 
 
 (2) Kara cie rrjv ec 'JLiricavpov evdetav, 'iffTt K.HMII Ar/ffffa. Ibid. p. l6g. 
 
 (3) Nadc »cat ^oavov. Ibid. 
 
 (4) Ibid. 
 
 (5) Ha7rvfff\ciTuv. Ibid. 
 
AltGOLIS. QW 
 
 browsing in great number. We met several herds upon the chap. xv. 
 road, each herd containing from seven to nine hundred head of 
 cattle. As we drew near to the sea-side, we passed a very ex- 
 tensive plantation of olive-trees ; and came to an antient paved 
 road, leading from Nauplia towards Argos the once renowned 
 capital. Sepulchres, as old as the age of Danaus, appeared 
 among the rocks before we reached the town. Strabo 
 assigns to them even an earlier date ; he says they were 
 called Cyclopia, as having been the work of the Cyclops 6 ; cychpt*. 
 it being usual to attribute to a race of men who, from their 
 power, were considered by after-ages as giants, any result 
 of extraordinary labour 7 . The beauties of the scenery, 
 and the interesting nature of the country, had detained us so 
 long, that we did not reach Nauplia until the gates were Nav P u a . 
 shut 8 ; and there was no possibility of causing a request to 
 be conveyed to the Governor for their being opened ; neither 
 Would any attention have been paid to such our petition, 
 if it had been made. The worst of the scrape was, that 
 all our beds and baggage, being with the sumpter-horses 
 and guides, had already entered the town before the gates 
 
 had 
 
 (6) 'E^>f£>/c cf rjj Noi/TrX/a rd <nrt}\ata, rat ol iv civtois otKocofiqrol Xafitfpivdoi' 
 KTKAQIIAEIA c ovojxd&vaiv. Strabon. Geog. lib. viii. p. 566. ed. Oxon. 
 
 (7) " Cyclopia autem dicta haec videntur, ob magnitudine : ' nam,' inquit vetus 
 Papinii interpres (ad Theb. 1. i. ver. 251.) ' auicquid magnitudine sua nolile est, 
 Cyclopum manu dicitur faMcatum.' Vid. Annot. Casaub. in Strabon. Geog. lib. viii. 
 p. 536. (4.) edit. Oxon. 1807 . 
 
 (8) Mr. Geil makes the distance from Ligurib to Nauplia live hours and forty-eight 
 minutes 3 not quite equal to sixteen miles English. See Win. of Greece, p. 101. Lond. 
 1810. 
 
;*.-'," 
 
 
 638 NAUPLIA. 
 
 chap. xv. had been closed. There seemed, therefore, to be no other 
 alternative but that of ending a long day of entire fasting 
 without any hope of nourishment, and with the certainty of 
 passing the rest of the night houseless in the suburbs of 
 Nanplia. After some time, the Tchohadar found a miserable 
 shed, whose owner he compelled to provide a few boards for 
 us to sit upon ; but neither the offers of money, nor Ibrahim's 
 boasted resource of fiagellatton y from which we found it 
 almost impossible to restrain him, availed any thing towards 
 bettering either our lodging or our fare. Weary, cold, and 
 comfortless, we remained counting the moments until the 
 morning ; without fire, without light, without rest, without 
 food: but the consciousness of being upon terra fir ma y and 
 that we were not exposed, as we had often been, under cir- 
 cumstances of equal privation, to the additional horrors of a 
 tempestuous sea, made our situation comparatively good, 
 and taught us to be thankful. 
 
 As soon as day-light appeared, the worthy Consul, 
 Mr. Victor Dalmar, who had received our baggage, and was 
 uneasy for the safety of his expected guests, caused the 
 gates to be opened rather earlier than usual \ The Governor, 
 to whom he had made application, sent orders to the gate, 
 desiring to see us. We begged to decline this honour, 
 pleading our fatigue and indisposition as an apology for not 
 waiting upon him ; but sent the Tchohadar as our repre- 
 sentative. 
 
 (l) " The Turks suspend a sabre over the gateway, as a memorial that the pla<i» 
 was taken by assault." Squire's MS. Correspondence. 
 

 N AU PL I A. 
 
 sentative. Ibrahim, having put on his fur pelisse, and a fine 
 tall calpack with a turban of white muslin, looked like a 
 Vizier, and quite as respeetable as any Pasha of three tails 
 throughout the Grand Signior's dominions. When we 
 arrived at the Consul's house, we found sitting in a little 
 hot close room, smelling most unpleasantly of stale tobacco 
 fumes, a short corpulent man, about fifty years of age, who 
 began talking to us very loud, as people often do with 
 foreigners, believing them to be deaf: he announced himself 
 to us as our host ; and, from the appearance of everything 
 around him, we expected indifferent accommodation. In this 
 however, we were mistaken : we were shewn to some rooms 
 lately whitewashed ; the chambers of the Consul's house, as 
 usual, surrounding a court, and communicating with each 
 other by means of a gallery. In these rooms there was not a 
 single article of furniture ; but they were clean, and we were 
 able to spread our matrasses upon the floor; and soon found 
 ourselves comfortably lodged in as hospitable a mansion as any 
 in all Greece; our benevolent host contriving everything for 
 our welcome, and endeavouring to prolong our stay as much 
 as possible. After we had taken a little rest, we were roused 
 by the firing of Turkish cannon in the Citadel ; and Ibrahim, 
 returning from his mission, brought the Governor's message 
 to the Consul, informing him that he had just received from 
 Stambol (Constantinople) intelligence of the expulsion of the 
 French from Egypt ; and that he had orders from his Govern- 
 ment to make it publickly known. We were shewn a copy of 
 the Takhrir, or official note, the only Turkish Gazette we had Turkish 
 
 Gazette. 
 
 ever seen, announcing an event nearly a quarter of a year 
 
 after 
 
 House of the 
 Consul. 
 
i**** 7 
 
 
 640 
 
 CHAP. XV. 
 
 Public 
 Rejoicings. 
 
 Athletes. 
 
 PELOPONNESUS. 
 
 after it had happened. It was in manuscript, and Mr. Dalmar 
 translated it for us. The nature of the intelligence was curious 
 enough : it set forth, after a long pompous preamble, that 
 " public rejoicings were to be held throughout the Ottoman Em- 
 pire for the deliverance of(Misr) Egypt from the hands of cursed 
 Infidels forsaken of God, owing to the bravery and prudence of 
 Hussein Fasha and of the troops belonging to the Sublime 
 Porte of solid glory , led on by their great Prophet" &c. £s?c. 
 The only mention made of any obligation to Great Britain 
 was tagged on in the form of a postscript, merely stating 
 that " the English Djowrs (Infidels) had acted friendly upon 
 the occasion." Thus the deliverance of Egypt, purchased at 
 the price of British blood, and for which Abercrombie died, 
 throughout the immense empire of Turkey was ascribed 
 to a dastardly banditti, who were idle spectators of the 
 contest, encumbering rather than aiding the operations of 
 our armies. 
 
 The rejoicings at Nauplia began immediately : they 
 consisted of an irregular discharge of small artillery most 
 wretchedly managed, and the exhibition of athletic sports 
 before the Governor's windows ; followed afterwards by a 
 few bad fireworks, displayed without any effect, by day-light. 
 The Athletce were principally wrestlers. We saw two of 
 them advance into the arena where the combat was to take 
 place : they came hand in hand, capering and laughing as if 
 highly gratified by the opportunity of shewing their skill : 
 presently they put themselves into various attitudes, and began 
 to make faces at each other. These men afforded a perfect 
 representation of the antient IlaX^, the oldest of all the 
 
 exercises. 
 

 ■ 
 
 NAUPLIA. 1 
 
 641 
 
 CHAP. XV. 
 
 exercises 1 . They wore tight leather breeches well soaked in 
 oil; in other respects their bodies were stark naked, except 
 being anointed with oil 2 , and rubbed over with dust 5 . To 
 pain the victory, it was necessary not only that one of the 
 combatants should throw the other, but that, having thrown 
 him, he should be able to keep his adversary lying upon his 
 back until he, the conqueror, regained his feet ; for in the 
 struggle they always fell together 4 . We had also the 
 satisfaction of seeing that most antient military dance the 
 Pyrrhica, as it had perhaps existed in Greece from the time of Fyrri&m 
 its introduction by the Son of Achilles, or by the Corybantes. 
 In fact, it was a Spartan dance, and therefore peculiarly 
 appropriate at a neighbouring Nauplian festival. It consisted 
 of men armed with sabres and shields, who came forward 
 in a kind of broad-sword exercise, exhibiting a variety of 
 martial evolutions to the sound of Turkish flutes. Such 
 amusements and customs are never likely to be discontinued 
 in any country, so long as any portion of the original inhabi- 
 tants remains : indeed, they often continue to exist when a new 
 
 race 
 
 (1) Even the origin of its name, IlaXt/, is uncertain. Virgil derives the exercise 
 from the Trojans, ^En. lib.iu. 280. 
 
 " Actiaque Iliads celebraams littora ludis." 
 
 (2) " Exercent patrias oleo labente palaestras 
 
 Nudati socii." Ibid. 281. 
 
 (3) Fid. Ovid. Met. ix. 35. Stat. Theb. vi. 846. Lucian. de Gymn. p.270. Among 
 the Antients, the dust for the wrestlers was kept in a particular place. Plutarch. 
 Sympos. II. Probl. 4. p. 638. C. Vitruv. V. 11. Leisner's Notes to Bos. 
 
 (4) The same rule, according to Mr. Thornton, is observed in other parts of Turkey. 
 (See Thorntons Turkey, vol. II. p. 207 . Lond. I8O9.) In antient wrestling, the prize 
 was obtained by throwing an adversary three times. 
 
 VOL. III. 4 N 
 
ff*f& 
 
 
 CHAP. XV. 
 
 Population. 
 
 64 C 2 PELOPONNESUS. 
 
 race has succeeded to the old inhabitants; being adopted 
 by their successors l . 
 
 The population of Nauplia consisted of two thousand 
 persons at the time of our arrival. The plague had raged 
 during three successive years, and had carried off six 
 thousand of its inhabitants. When free from this scourge, 
 it is a very unhealthy place, the people being attacked 
 
 Bad Ai.-. annually with a malaria fever. The few merchants who 
 
 reside here have generally country-houses, and leave the 
 town in the summer months. The night we had passed in 
 the suburb exposed us to an attack of this kind ; the author 
 having caught the fever, and all our party being in a certain 
 degree affected by the unwholesome air. The only remedy 
 is the red Peruvian bark ; but it must be administered in very 
 powerful doses. A traveller in Greece should consider this 
 medicine as absolutely necessary to his existence, and never 
 
 Commerce. journey unprovided 2 . The commerce of Naiiplia has been for 
 some time upon the decline. The exports are oil, spunges, 
 and wine. Formerly, the produce of the Morea for expor- 
 tation, in the first of these articles alone, (and almost all of it 
 w r ent from Nauplia,) amounted, in a good year, to one million 
 of Turkish quilots : even now, if the crops have not been 
 deficient, the produce of Corinth, Misitra, Nauplia, Argos, &c. 
 
 is 
 
 (1) All the invasions and conquests to which our island has been liable, during nine- 
 teen centuries, have not abolished the rites of the Misletoe; and some of the games of 
 the earliest inhabitants- of Great Britain are still practised in the country. 
 
 (2) Perhaps the arsenic solution, called " tasteless ague drops," might prove even a 
 more potent remedy; and it would be more portable, owing to the small quantity of 
 arsenic necessary in its preparation. 
 
N A U P L I A. 
 
 643 
 
 is sufficient for the freightage of twenty-fire vessels. A barrel t CHAP - xv - 
 of fine oil sells here for twenty-six or twenty-eight piastres; 
 each barrel containing forty-eight okes. The other exports of 
 the Morea, from this port, are Yelani acorns, vermilion, 
 and wine, of which a great quantity is made, the soil of the 
 Peninsula being particularly favourable to vineyards. The 
 people of Nauplia were early renowned for the cultivation 
 of the vine : they formerly worshipped, as an idol, an asss 
 head ; because that animal, by browsing the vines, taught 
 them the art of pruning 3 . Very excellent oil is made at 
 Mitylene, whence a considerable quantity comes to Nauplia 
 to be exported. They receive also from Misitra forty or fifty 
 thousand okes of silk ; and this is of three sorts or qualities : 
 the finest is called (o\f/s) Opsc ; the second sort, Karatch ketni 
 litchi ; and the third, Kassagico 4 . There is perhaps no place 
 in Greece where the anticnt medals of the country may be 
 purchased in greater number, or found in a higher state of 
 perfection, than at Nauplia. We obtained here the oldest 
 silver medals of Corinth, of yJrgos, of Dorium, in Messenia, 
 and of JEgina. Old Roman copper coins might be had 
 literally by the handful. Silver medals of the Achaian League, 
 with the head of Jupiter, laurelled, in front, and the mono- 
 gram /£\ on the obverse side, were very common. Upon the 
 oldest Corinthian silver, the head of Pallas was represented, 
 
 within 
 
 (3) Vid. Pausan. in Corinthiac. c. 38. p. 201. Lips, 16q6. 
 
 (4) We cannot pretend to accuracy in writing these words j. they are merely an 
 adaptation of the letters of our alphabet to sounds, as they seemed to be uttered. The 
 Karatch is a capitation tax, levied upon Greeks and Jews ; and possibly the second 
 sort of silk may be the result of such a tax taken in kind. 
 

 644 'PELOPONNESUS. 
 
 chap. xv. within an indented square; or the figure of a flying Pegasus 
 with the wings curved towards the head, and beneath 
 the animal the Phoenician letter Q. Koph. Some, upon their 
 obverse sides, exhibited only the indented square, divided 
 into four parts, with a grain in each. 
 Gipsies. We had not seen any Gipsies since we left Russia ; but 
 
 we found this people in Nauplia, under the name they bear 
 in Moldavia, of Tchinganehs. How they came hither, no one 
 knew; but the march of their ancestors from the north of India 
 to Europe, so lately as the beginning of the fifteenth century, 
 will account for their not being found farther towards the 
 south ; and this is now so well ascertained, that no one would 
 expect to meet a Gipsy upon any of the southern shores of the 
 Mediterranean. To have found them in the Peloponnesus 
 is rather remarkable, considering that their whole tribe, at 
 the first, did not exceed half a million: and this number has 
 subsequently much diminished. Their progress towards this 
 peninsula may have been through Bulgaria, Thrace, and the 
 other northern parts of Greece, from Moldavia, Transylvania, 
 and Wallachia, where they are numerous, and find employ- 
 ment in collecting gold from the alluvial deposit of the 
 rivers. Through the same countries they may have reached 
 Asia Minor ; but we believe that the Morea has been the 
 ultimate of their journey towards the south, since the period 
 
 of their first migration 1 . 
 
 The 
 
 (1) Beauj our mentions them as forming part of the population of Salonica, under 
 the name of Tchinghenais. Tableau de la Coram, de la Grece, torn. I. p. 53^ 
 Paris, 1800. 
 
NAUPLI A. 
 
 645 
 
 The streets of Nauplia are as they probably existed in the .chap.xv. 
 time of Pausanias; narrow, dark, and dirty. It is mentioned 
 both by Xenophon' 1 and by Euripides 3 ; but its antient name of 
 Nauplia is now corrupted by the Italians into Napoli di Ro- 
 mania. The high and abrupt mountain upon which the Acro- 
 polis is situated, still retains the name of the hero Palamedes, 
 son of Nauplius, in the appellation Palamedi. There is nothing 
 remarkable in the town itself, excepting its situation ; and this, 
 like the site of many other Grecian cities, borrows from Nature 
 some of her grandest features, each disposition of them being 
 at the same time distinguished by something peculiar to itself. 
 Athens, Argos, Nauplia, Corinth, and many more, had each characteristic 
 
 - features of 
 
 their lofty citadel, with its dependent burgh, and fertile Grecian cities. 
 plain : in this they resembled each other ; but in certain 
 characteristics they all differ. Athens appears as a forsaken 
 habitation of holiness: for a moment, unmindful of the 
 degrading character of its Divinities, the spectator views 
 with a degree of awe its elevated shrines, surrounded on 
 every side by a mountain barrier, inclosing the whole 
 district as within one consecrated Peribolus. Argos, with 
 less of a priestly character, but equal in dignity, sits 
 enthroned as the mistress of the seas : facing the sun's most 
 powerful beams, she spreads her flowery terraces, on either 
 side, before the lucid bosom of the waters in regal 
 
 majesty. 
 
 (2) Xenophont. Hellenic, lib. iv. Annot. Forst. in Strabon. lib. ix. p. 535. ed. Oxon, 
 
 (3) Euripides in Oreste, ver. 53. Ibid. 
 
 "H«t ydp sis y*jv Mcy/At^c T^oo/ac awo, 
 Aifxha £t ~Nav7r\itiov tKifki)puv irkdry, 
 "AK-aiaiv opfAti, ...i — .. . 
 
SHW^S^iA'. 
 
 
 f?l$JZf ^•ff-*- 
 
 646 
 
 PELOPONNESUS. 
 
 chap. xv. majesty. Nauplia, stretching out upon a narrow tongue of 
 land, and commanded by impregnable heights, rich in the 
 possession of her port, " the most secure and best defended 
 in the Morea 1 ," but depending always upon Argos for 
 supplies, was fitted, by every circumstance of natural form, 
 to become a mercantile city, and the mart of Grecian com- 
 merce. Corinth, the Gibraltar of the Peloponnesus, by its 
 very nature & fortress, is marked by every facility that may 
 conduce to military operations, or render it conspicuous for 
 its ivarlike aspect. In every part of Greece there is some- 
 thing naturally appropriate to the genius and the history of 
 the place ; as in the bubbling fountains and groves of 
 Epidauria, sacred to JEsculaphis ; the pastoral scenes of 
 Arcadia, dedicated to the Muses and to Pan ; the hollow 
 rocks of Phocis, echoing to Pythian oracles; and perhaps 
 the custom of making offerings to all the Gods, upon the 
 summits of Olympus and Parnassus, did not so much 
 originate in any Eastern practice, as in the peculiar facility 
 wherewith the eye commanded from those eminences almost 
 every seat of sanctity in Greece 2 . 
 
 On 
 
 (1) Chandler's Trav. in Greece, p. 227. Oxf. 1/70. 
 
 (2) The old Grecian cu3tom of uttering the Kvpts l\itjrrov (" Lord have mercy npoi 
 Us /") and making sign of reverence upon coming in sight of any place of worship, « 
 still retained among Greek Christians, but particularly in Russia : the Russians us; 
 the same expression literally translated, " Ghospodi pomilui! " As the practice enjoinec 
 reverence to every particular shrine, it must necessarily become a general homage t< 
 all the Divinities, when temples belonging to all the Gods where rendered visible a 
 the same time, with as much ease, and more strikingly, than churches become con- 
 spicuous to the common people, who, in every Christian country, frequently emploj 
 themselves in counting them from the tops of their hills. Perhaps this may explain th( 
 
 beoinninc 
 
FROM NAUPLIA TO TIRYNS. 
 
 647 
 
 On Wednesday, November the ninth, we left Nauplia, 
 accompanied by the two sons of Mr. Dalmar, to visit the 
 remains of Tiryns 3 , and thence proceed to Argos, Mucence, 
 and Nemddyin. our way to Sicyon and Corinth. The lofty 
 Citadel of Palamedi towered above us, on our right hand. 
 We passed several gardens, and some pleasing kiosks, or 
 summer-houses, situated near the town. The w r alls of 
 Tiryns are not more than an English mile and a half Tiryns. 
 distant from Nauplia; or half an hour, according to the 
 Turkish mode of reckoning 4 . The sight of them, in a 
 moment, carried our reflections back to the most distant ages 
 of history : we seemed, in fact, to be once more among the 
 Ruins of Memphis. By whomsoever they were built 5 , they 
 
 are 
 
 CHAP. xv. 
 
 beginning of those offerings to all the Gods which were made by the Antient Greeks 
 upon the summits of their mountains; rather than the ridiculous notion of being nearer 
 to their Divinities. The first temples were tombs; and these were not upon the tops of 
 mountains, but in the plains below, near to the cities and public roads : therefore, by- 
 going to the summits of mountains, they, in fact, went farther from their Gods. This 
 suggestion is, however, only made with reference to Polytheism, and to the nature of 
 the offering : the worshippers of one God, as we learn from Herodotus, with regard to 
 the Persians who built no temples, chose tha tops of the highest hills and mountains 
 for their places of worship. {Herodot. Hist, lib.i.) Strabo also observes of them, 
 that they had neither images nor altars, but paid their adoration upon some high place. 
 (Strabon. Geog. lib. xv.) Cyrus having had a dream, forewarning him of his 
 approaching death, sacrificed upon the summit of a mountain. {Vid. Xenophon. lib. viii.) 
 The inhabitants of Pontus and Cappadocia practised the same kind of worship. 
 {Appian. lib. de bdlo Mithrid. p. 366.) 
 
 (3) Mcrot ci XctKEcaluova tt6\ic- lcxtiv ''APrOS, teal iv uvrij NATTTIAIA noXtr, 
 teal \i/u>jy. 'Ev usaoyeiq ci KAEP.NAI, kcu MXKHNAI, kcu TIPTN0A. Scylacis 
 Caryandensis Perbius, p. 43. L. Bat. 1697. 
 
 (4) See Gell's Itinerary of Greece. Lond. 1810. 
 
 (5) It is said by Strabo, Pausanias, and other historians, that the walls of Tiryns 
 were built by the Cyclops, the same persons to whom Strabo ascribes the origin of the 
 
 Nauplia?i 
 

 
 648 
 
 PELOPONNESUS. 
 
 Celtic and 
 Phoenician 
 Architecture 
 
 chap. xv. are decidedly of Egyptian origin, and one of the greatest 
 curiosities in all Greece. The coming of an Egyptian colony 
 to this part of Peloponnesus, about fifteen centuries before 
 our gera, is a fact attested by the highest authority of written 
 testimony 1 ; but there is something in the style of the archi- 
 tecture here, which, when compared with other remains of 
 a similar nature, and added to a few historical facts, seems 
 rather to prove it of Celtic, than of Egyptian origin. We 
 purposely avoid entering into any detailed description of 
 the dimensions of this gigantic building, because a most 
 faithful delineator has already anticipated whatever we might 
 have said upon the subject. To his work we must therefore 
 refer the Reader 2 ; merely stating of the walls of the Citadel, 
 that, with the exception of the interior structure of the Pyr- 
 amids, a more marvellous result of human labour has not been 
 found upon earth. The Celts have left in Great Britain a 
 surprising specimen of the Cyclopean style in architecture : 
 and it may be said of their temple at Stonehenge, that it has 
 all the marks of a Phoenician building 3 : hence a conclus.on 
 
 misrht 
 
 Nauplian Caves. Of the Cyclops nothing certain is known. They were supposel to 
 be the sons of Coclus and Terra; and this notion is enough to prove that all concening 
 their history is involved in fable. There were no less than three distinct races of nen 
 who bore this appellation. (Vid. Casaubon. Annot. in Strabon. lib. viii.) Some illu- 
 sion to the builders of Tiryns will be again introduced in the next Chapter. 
 
 (1) A$ OX NATS riENTHKONTA KXinHN ES AIFTnTOT 
 EI2 THN EAAAAA EIIAErSE, k. t. X. 
 
 Vid. Chronicon ex Marmor. Arundel. Epoch ix. 
 
 (2) See Gell's Itinerary of Greece, pp. 54, 55, 56, 5"], 58. Plates xv. xvi. :vii. 
 Loud. 1810. 
 
 (3) Stonehenge might be considered as a Phoenician building, from its resembhnce 
 to the style of the architecture observed upon the eastern shores of the Mediterranan, 
 
 aided 
 
TIRYNS. 
 
 649 
 
 might be deduced, that the Celts were originally Phoenicians, 
 or that they have left in Pkoenice monuments of their 
 former residence in that country. If it be asked, in what 
 region of the globe a taste originated for the kind of 
 architecture termed by the Greeks Cyclope , an\ perhaps the 
 answer may be, that it was cradled in the Caves of India; 
 for many of these, either partly natural, or wholly artificial, 
 whether originally sepulchres, temples, or habitations, it 
 matters not, are actually existing archetypes of a style of 
 building yet recognised over all the western world, even 
 to the borders of the Atlantic ocean : and the traveller who 
 is accustomed to view these Cyclopean labours, however 
 differing in their ages, beholds in them as it were a series 
 of family resemblances, equally conspicuous in the caverns 
 of Elephanta, the ruins of Persepolis, the sepulchres of 
 Syria and of Asia Minor, the remains of the most antient 
 cities in Greece and Italy, such as Tiryns and Crotona, and 
 
 the 
 
 CHAP. XV. 
 
 Origin of the 
 
 Cyclopean 
 
 style. 
 
 added to the knowledge we hare of Phoenician settlements upon our south-western 
 coasts : but the same kind of building exists in the northern parts of our island, and in 
 Ireland, and may be noticed over all the territories of the Bel gee and Cimbri. Having 
 accidentally alluded to this remarkable structure, it would be worse than mere omission 
 to avoid noticing an observation concerning it by that learned antiquary R. P. Knight, 
 Esq. as founded upon a fragment of the writings of Hhcatjeus. " From a passage 
 of Hecatceus, preserved by Diodorus Siculus, I think it is evident that Stonehenge, and 
 all the other monuments of the same kind found in the North, belonged to the same 
 religion, which appears, at some remote period, to have prevailed over the whole 
 northern hemisphere. According to the same historian, the Hyperboreans inhabited an 
 island beyond Gaul, as large as Sicily, in which A olio was worshipped in a circular 
 temple considerable for its size and riches." 
 
 (4) See a former Note upon the application of this term among the Greek writers. 
 VOL. III. 4 o 
 

 HHH m& P8j$& spg 
 
 History of 
 Tiryns. 
 
 PELOPONNESUS. 
 
 the more northern monuments of the Celts, as in the 
 temples called Druidical; especially that of Stonehenge, 
 in the south of England. The destruction of Tiryns is of 
 such remote antiquity, that its walls existed nearly as 
 they do at present in the earliest periods of Grecian 
 history. iElian says its inhabitants fed upon wild Jigs 1 , 
 and the Arcadians upon acorns 2 . The Argives laid waste 
 the city, and removed its inhabitants to their own capital. 
 Pausanias, by whom this is mentioned 3 , makes frequent 
 allusion to its marvellous walls 4 , considered by him not 
 less entitled than the Pyramids of Egypt to rank among 
 the wonders of the antient world 5 . The prodigious 
 masses of which they consist were put together without 
 cement ; and they are likely to brave the attacks of 
 time through ages even more numerous than those which 
 have already elapsed since they were built. Owing to its 
 walls, the city is celebrated in the poems of Homer 6 ; and 
 the satisfaction of seeing an example of the military 
 architecture of the heroic ages, as it was beheld by him, is 
 
 perhaps 
 
 (1) This is rather an argument for their ./Egyptian origin; for by the wild Jig is 
 probably intended the Ficus Sycomorus, the fruit of which is still eaten in Egypt. We 
 did not, however, notice this tree in Greece. 
 
 (2) jElian. Hist. Var. lib. Hi. c. 39. 
 
 (3) 'Aptarr)crav ct ical TipvvQiour; Apyetoi, <rvvoiicov<; vpotrKafttLv, teat to ''Apyu^ 
 *7ravt,t)orat OeXfauvrer. Pausan. Corinth, c. 26. p. 169. Lips. l6g6. 
 
 (4) Vid. Pausan. in Achaic. c.25. p. 5S9. in Boeotic. c. 36. p./33, &c. Lips. 1696. 
 
 (5) La rti-^Tj Tit tv TipviOt ovdo cVt ftpaxy i/yayov piv^py]^, ovci oyra iXdrrovoi 
 Oavp-aTor. Ibid. p. 783. Boeotic. c. 36. Lips. 1696. 
 
 (6) 0< B'"Apyos t tlypv, Tipvvdd tc Tei^idttTtrav. 
 
 Iliad, ft. vcr.559. 
 
TIRYNS. 
 
 651 
 
 perhaps only granted to the moderns in this single instance. 
 They have remained nearly in their present state above 
 three thousand years. It is believed that they were erected 
 long before the Trojan war : as to the precise period, 
 chronologists are so little agreed with regard even to the 
 arrival of the Phoenician and Egyptian colonies under Cadmus 
 and Danans, that a difference of at least a century may be 
 observed in their calculations 7 . The celebrity of their 
 Citadel is almost all that is now known of the Tirynthians, 
 excepting their natural tendency to mirth and frivolity. If 
 we may rely upon an anecdote cited by the Abbe 
 Barthelemy 8 from Athenams 9 , in their characteristic dispo- 
 sition they were nearly allied to the Parisians of the present 
 day ; and, for want of a better argument, the Members of 
 the French Academy may recur to the story, in support 
 of a very probable truth ; namely, that the Tirynthians 
 and the Gauls were only earlier and later scions of the same 
 Indo-Europcean stock. Such was their remarkable levity, 
 that the most serious and important concerns served among 
 them merely to give a turn to a bon mot. At last, even Jim 
 became a bore ; and they applied to the Oracle of Delphi, to 
 
 be 
 
 CHAP. XV. 
 
 Character of 
 the Tiryn- 
 thians. 
 
 (7) The Editor of the Chronicle improperly called Parian (which we stated to 
 have been found in Ceos) dates the coming of Cadmus to Thebes 1519 years before 
 Christ : but he adds, in a Note, " Diodorus and Eusebius make Danaus go into Greece, 
 before Cadmus went in search of Europa. Diod. Sie. lib. v. p. 32Q. Our chronologer 
 places Cadmus eight years before Danaus." (See p. 25. Lond. 1/88.) Other9 date the 
 arrival of Cadmus 1493 before Christ. 
 
 (8) Voyage du Jeune Anacharsis, torn. iv. p. 349. a Paris, if go. 
 
 (9) Theophr. ap. Athen. lib. vi. c. 17. p. 26l. Eustath. in Odyss. lib. xviii. 
 p. 1839. lin.4/. 
 
«3B*ff. 
 
 
 652 
 
 CHAP. XV. 
 
 TIRYNS. 
 
 be delivered from the ennui of its perpetual recurrence. 
 The answer of the Oracle put them to a trial, which only 
 served to render their natural character the more conspi- 
 cuous : it promised relief, upon condition, that, after having 
 gravely sacrificed a bull to Neptune, they should as gravely 
 cast it into the sea. For this purpose the Tirynthians 
 assembled upon the shore ; taking especial care to prevent the 
 juvenile members of their society from being present at the 
 solemnity. A young pickle, however, made his way into 
 the crowd ; and finding they were eager to drive him from 
 the ceremony, exclaimed, (( Are ye then afraid lest I should 
 swallow your bull?" The words were no sooner uttered, 
 than a general roar of laughter burst from the whole 
 assembly; and being thus persuaded of their incurable dis- 
 position, they submitted to their destiny. 
 

 CHAP. XVI. 
 
 PELOPONNESUS. 
 
 Further inquiry into the Origin of Tiryns — Road to Argos — River 
 
 Inachus — Plants and Minerals — Argos — Terra-cotta FaSes — 
 Ignorance of their Sepulchral use — Hecate's Supper — Lectisternium 
 — Probable cause of depositing Earthen' Vessels in Sepulchres — 
 Origin of the custom — Population of Argos — Antiquities — Theatre 
 — Hieron of Venus — Diras — Cyclopea — Alcyonian Lake — 
 Oracular Shrine — Other remains of the city — Character of the 
 antient Argives — View of the Argive Plain — Fabulous Contest 
 between Neptune and Juno — Hieron of Ceres Mysias — Antiquity 
 of fictile materials in building — Mycenae — State of the Ruins — 
 Extraordinary Sepulchre — not the Treasury of Atreus — Heroum 
 of Perseus- -Sophocles — internal evidence of his having visited the 
 spot — of the A-opa and U^oTrvXaicc — Tomb of Agamemnon — 
 Interior oj the Tumulus — Enormous lintel — Use of the triangular 
 
 cavity 
 
V.-WS 
 
 3K9I9R9H9 RB^BQI RhSH^^hIh I "■r^ 
 
 654 
 
 PELOPONNESUS. 
 
 cavity a&ove i/te entrance — Inner chamber — Leonine Gate — Dimen- 
 sions and description of the Propylaea — Mythological Symbols — 
 Consecrated Gates — Of the Pylagorae — ^Egyptian characteristics — 
 Worship of the Sun — Walls of Mycenae. 
 
 chap, xvi. JL he advocates for the early origin of " the pointed style" 
 Further in- in Gothic architecture will have cause enough for triumph 
 
 quiry into the 
 
 ori-in of in the Cyclopean Gallery at Tiryns ; exhibiting ''lancet 
 
 TSryns. 
 
 arches" almost as antient as the time of Abraham 1 : and if 
 the learned Pezron have not erred in his history of the 
 Gauls, the Citadel, itself may be considered as a Celtic 
 structure 2 . Be this as it may, the subject is certainly 
 curious; and if it serve only as an amusing topic of research, 
 will perhaps be gratifying to the studious Reader. In 
 tracing the march of the Celtce out of the regions of Upper 
 Asia, he brings a colony, under the name of Titans, from 
 Phrygia into Peloponnesus, some years before the death of the 
 patriarch Abraham 3 . These men, owing to their astonishing 
 power and prowess, and the mighty works whereby 
 they became signalized, he believes to have been the 
 Giants and Titans of the Septuagint version of Isaiah* and 
 of Judith 5 ; men who became afterwards the omnipotent and 
 
 sovereign 
 
 (1) The author would have accompanied this by an engraving, bnt it has been 
 . superseded by Mr. Gell's most accurate representation of the Gallery at Tiryns, as 
 
 published in his Work, to which the Reader is particularly referred. See Gell's 
 Itinerary of Greece, Plate xvi. p. 56. Lond. 1810. 
 
 (2) See a most ingenious Dissertation on the " Antiquities of Nations." by Paul 
 Pezron. Lond. I8O9. 
 
 (3) "I have shewn, in treating of those princes who ruled over the Titans, that 
 they were the contemporaries of Abraham, and even of his father Terah." Pezroris 
 Antiq. of Nations, p. 185. Lond. ISOy. See also p. 83. 
 
 (4) TiyavTuq 01 dpfavres rtjs yni. Isaiah, xiv. Q. 
 
 (5) Judith, lib. vi. ver. 6, and 7- viol Ttrdvuy. 
 
T I R Y N S. 
 
 655 
 
 sovereign gods of Greece and Rome ; according to the chap, xvi. 
 common practice among the Antients, of deifying their 
 deceased monarchs. He finds, moreover, the names of 
 all their Princes in the Celtic language 3 . In a work of 
 this kind we must leave such profound researches to the 
 investigation of antiquaries and philologists. Let us only 
 see, with reference to Tiryns (concerning whose origin 
 any sound information is as light shining in darkness), 
 whether there be aught connected with its history likely 
 to corroborate Pezrons opinion. All the writers by whom 
 its builders are mentioned, attribute its architecture to the 
 identical race he has mentioned ; that is to say, to the 
 Giants, under a different appellation of Cyclops : and this 
 name was bestowed upon them in consequence of a custom 
 which any Celtic helmet would illustrate, namely, that of 
 having only one aperture for sight, in the middle of the 
 visor. They came also from the country whence Pezron 
 deduces his Titan colony ; from the southern provinces of 
 Phrygia Magna, Caria, and Lycia 1 . In the next place 
 occurs a circumstance of a more decisive nature, calculated 
 to confirm the observations of that author in a very striking 
 
 manner ; 
 
 (6) Pezron's Antiq. of Nations. Pref. p. xviii. Also B. I. c. 14. p. 111. B. II. c. 1. 
 p. 185, &c. Land. I8O9. 
 
 (7) " CasaubonuSj ex Apollodoro, Cyclophs in Lycia invenit, et eos in Graecia 
 regnante Jobates habitasse ait. Jobates Bellerophonti luit coaevus, qui tertia aetate 
 ante bellum Trojanum exiitit. Quo tempore Tiryns forsan fuit condita. Strabo 
 K.dpas quosdam ad Epidaurum ducit. Caria Lyciae proxima est, ergo Cyclopes Lycii 
 cum colonia Carum forsan Tirynthem advenerunt." Fid, Annot. in Strabon. Geog. 
 lib. viii. p. 5-10. ed. Oxon. 180/. 
 

 
 
 Pmtm 
 
 
 656 
 
 CHAP. XVI. 
 
 Road to 
 Argos. 
 
 PELOPONNESUS. 
 
 manner ; although by him unnoticed. It is found in an 
 antient name of the Inachus, flowing between Tiryns and 
 Argos. This river was called Haliacmojn, from a person 
 who is mentioned by Plutarch ' as of Tirynthian race, but 
 bearing, in fact, the same name as the father of Uranus, 
 by whom the Titan-Celts were conducted into Peloponnesus 1 . 
 His name was Acmon ; but Sanchoniathon, who wrote, as 
 it is believed, his history of Phoenice before the Trojan war, 
 plainly intimates that this prince was styled, in the language 
 of that country, Elion (Most high), answering to the Greek 
 title TYirro?, altissiinus* . In Phrygia there was a town 
 called Acmonia*; and one of the Cyclops had the name of 
 Acmonides*. Hence it seems evident that the Titan-Celtce 
 were of the same race as the Cyclops, who constructed the 
 Tirynthian Citadel ; and, consequently, that the walls of 
 Tirvns are of Celtic original. 
 
 We crossed the Inachus at its junction with the 
 Charadrus, in our road from Tiryns to Argos. The distance 
 is about six English miles. Nothing can exceed the magni- 
 ficence of the scenery all around the Gulph ; and it cannot 
 
 be 
 
 (1) Ivayoa Tora/nos tan r>jc 'Apyeia? \dpac. zkoKuto ce re nporipov \Lupudru>p. 
 ' AXidx/xav ci rp yivtt. Tipvvdiog, ev ru> Y^OKKvyiu iroif.iaivQV opti, teal tear dyvoiav rq 
 "Pr'at ovyyivopctvov t>jq Ala deaadpevos, cp:/j.ayt]c ey'tvero, cat p.ed' 6p/ui]<; ivsydtlt, 
 'IfiuXev iavrov ?<V irorafxov Kap/xdvopa, 6c an-' avrov 'AAlAKMflN jxtrMvopidoOij. 
 Plutarch, de Fluviis, pp. 58, 5Q. Tolosce, \6l5. 
 
 (2) See Pezron's " Antiquities of Nations," B.I. e.g. p. 6l. Lond. I8O9. 
 
 (3) Sanchon. apud Euseb. Praep. Evangel, lib. i. c. 10. 
 
 (4) Step. Byzantin. Acmonia. 
 
 (5) Ovid. Fast. IV. v. 288. 
 
FROM TIRYNS TO ARGOS. 657 
 
 be necessary to enumerate the interesting recollections that . CHAP - XVI - 
 serve to render it still more impressive.- In this ride from 
 Tiryns to Argos, the prospect is particularly striking: the 
 antient Capital, even in its state of wretchedness, with 
 scarcely a wreck remaining, has still an appearance which 
 is, in every sense of the term, imposing. It leads the 
 traveller to believe that he shall find, upon his arrival, 
 the most ample traces of its pristine greatness. This 
 is principally owing to a cause already assigned; to the 
 prodigious contribution made by the geological features 
 of the country, in the plans of Grecian cities ; where 
 Nature has herself supplied, upon a most stupendous scale, 
 what Art would otherwise more humbly have contrived. 
 In various parts of Greece, where the labours of man have 
 been swept away, — where time, barbarians, nay, even 
 earthquakes, and every other moral and physical revolution, 
 have done their work, an eternal city seems still to survive; 
 because the Acropolis, the Stadium, the Theatre, the 
 Sepulchres, the Shrines, and the votive receptacles, are so 
 many "sure and firm-set" rocks; slightly modified indeed 
 by the hand of man, but upon which the blast of desolation 
 passes like the breath of a zephyr. Argos is conspicuous in 
 this class of cities : and if in the approach to it from Tiryns, 
 where Art seems to have rivalled Nature in the eternity of 
 her existence, the view be directed towards the sea, a 
 similar and not less striking object is presented, in the 
 everlasting Citadel of Nauplia. The Inachus, separating The River 
 the two capitals of Acrisius and Erostus, is now, as it was 
 formerly, a wide, but shallow water-course, sometimes 
 vol. in. 4 p entirely 
 
f?pE^ 
 
 ^^h **^ assess J^P yzm .**&■ 
 
 Wtgi KB BB t-vj-.o?- 
 
 658 
 
 PELOPONNESUS. 
 
 chap, xvi. entirely dry. It was dry when we passed. Callimachus 
 mentions its beautiful waters'. On account of its periodical 
 exsiccation, it has been considered by travellers as having 
 been the subject of a greater alteration than it has really 
 sustained. Antient stories, it is true, pretended that it 
 was once remarkable for suicides, committed by persons 
 who had precipitated themselves into its flood' 1 : but these 
 events might happen in an occasional torrent, as well as 
 in a perennial river 3 . A circumstance related by Agathoclcs 
 the Milesian, and cited from his writings by Plutarch*, 
 in his description of the Inachus, may prove that the 
 state of the river now does not differ from its antient 
 condition. Agathocles maintained, that being thunderstruck 
 by Jupiter, it became dry in consequence of the heat 5 . 
 Strabo's description of it is applicable to a water-course, 
 rather than to a flowing river*. Plutarch has stated a 
 few observations connected with its natural history, which 
 our time did not enable us to verify. Speaking of its plants 
 and minerals, he says, that the herb Cyura grew in the 
 bed of the river, celebrated for its properties in assisting 
 parturition : it resembled Peganum 1 ; and this word the 
 
 Latin 
 
 Plant* and 
 Minerals. 
 
 (1) See the Hymn bf Callimachus upon the Baths of Pallas. 
 
 (2) Vid. Plutarch, de Fluviis, pp. 58, 59. Tolos. 16 15. 
 
 (3) " Most of the Grecian streams are winter torrents, and dry in the summer 
 Squire's MS. Correspondence. 
 
 (4) Plutarch, de Fiuv. ut supra, p. 60. 
 
 (5) A<a wavoxipyiav vwo rov Scot; KsnavvuOivra, %Wo6v ytviaQai. Ibid. 
 
 (6) ~S.apacpoi^r]<j Trora/icog. Strabon. Geog. lib. viii. p. 537- Ed. Oxon. 
 
 (7) VLtydvu Trpouoj-ioiog. Ibid. 
 
 ■Mi -*Mi*MLZ, 
 
FROM TIRYNS TO ARGOS. 659 
 
 Latin translator of Plutarch has rendered by Ruta ; perhaps chap.xvi. 
 from the extraordinary virtues ascribed universally to Rue, 
 which caused it to receive at an early period in our country 
 the name of " Herb of grace*." Rue has been celebrated as 
 an antidote against poison, pestilence, and the devil ; being 
 used in exorcisms, and extolled and recommended by almost 
 all medical writers from Hippocrates to Boerhaave. But the 
 herb called Peganum by Theophrastus and Dioscorides differs 
 from Ruta 9 . The plant mentioned by Plutarch remains 
 therefore to be ascertained ; because, as "Pvrv was the more 
 antient name, particularly in Peloponnesus 10 , and Ilriyocvov the 
 more modern, it may be supposed that Plutarch would have 
 bestowed the former appellation upon it, if it had been 
 applicable. The same author mentions also the herb 
 Selene, producing a species of foam (u,<pgog), which the 
 peasants collected in the beginning of summer, and applied 
 to their feet as an antidote against the venom of reptiles". 
 Its minerals were, the Beryel 12 , and a stone called Corybas", 
 of a raven colour, used as a charm against fearful dreams. 
 The latter was probably nothing more than the dark fetid 
 limestone, to which imaginary virtues are still ascribed in the 
 
 East : 
 
 (S) " there's Rue for you; — here's some for me; — we may call it 
 
 Herb of grace o' Sundays." Shakspcare's Hamlet. 
 
 (9) "As Celastrus from Euonymus." See Martyn's Edit, of Miller, vol.11. 
 Parti. Lond.1807. 
 
 (10) Ibid. Vol.11. Part 2. 
 
 (11) Plutarch de Fluv. p. 62. Tolos.l6l5. 
 
 (12) Ibid. p. 60. 
 
 (13) Ibid. p. 64. 
 

 
 TMWJSf 
 
 660 
 
 PELOPONNESUS. 
 
 :VL , East : we found it among the most antient amulets in the 
 catacombs of Saccdra in Egypt. With regard to the former, 
 it is exceedingly difficult at this time to determine the 
 particular stone called Beryll by the Antients. We learn 
 from Epiphanins, that it was of a yellow colour 1 , and found 
 near Mount Taurus. But there were other varieties of 
 Beryll; one resembling the pupil of a serpent's eye 2 ; another 
 like wax, found near the mouth of the Euphrates 5 . Hence 
 it is evident that different minerals bore this name among 
 the Antients : the first variety may have been our Topaz ; the- 
 second and third were in all probability different appearances 
 of Chalcedony r. Theophrastus does not mention the Beryll ; 
 and in Pliny's account of the stone, fifty different minerals 
 may be included. He begins by placing it among Emeralds 4 ; 
 and the account he gives of the hexangular shape preserved 
 by the lapidaries in polishing, seems to prove that it had the 
 natural form of our Emerald, care being taken to polish it 
 upon its lateral planes : but his subsequent remarks, added 
 to his concluding observation that all Berylls are liable to 
 capillary blemishes, and to be vitiated by extraneous 
 substances, brings his Beryll at once to our Quartz ; and this 
 also crystallizes in the hexagonal form. 
 
 We 
 
 (1) Aidoi BHPTAAION, yXavicifav fxh tan, k.t.X. Epiphanius de xii Gemmis. 
 quae erant in veste Aaronis. p. JO. Tigur. 1565. 
 
 (2) Tate Kopats tuv o^daXfxwv rov IpdxovTOs iari TrapcurXrjtyia. Ibid. 
 
 (3) "E<TTt Ct teal c'iXX?} 7rdXiv 6/noiu icrjpu). Ibid. 
 
 (4) Vid. Plin. Hist. Nat. lib. xxxvii. c. 6. p. 535. torn. III. L.Bat. 1635. 
 
 iV-i^fh- 
 
ARGOS. 
 
 661 
 
 We arrived at Argos, and were most hospitably received chap. xvr. 
 
 by the English Baratary b , Mr. Blasopulo, pronounced Vlasopulo. Arg °*- 
 He presented us, upon our arrival, a silver medal of Ptolemy, 
 
 and some beautiful terra- cotta vases found in sepulchres at Terracotta 
 
 Vases. 
 
 a village called Pesopodce, near the Inachus, situated to the 
 north of Argos. The Albanian peasants by whom they 
 were discovered had broken many more; not choosing to 
 use vessels that had been taken from graves, and conceiving 
 them to be of no value. They were all evidently Grecian, 
 and made in an age when the Arts were much advanced, if 
 not in their most splendid a?ra 6 . A patera with two handles, 
 
 of 
 
 (5) A Baratary is a person who enjoys the protection of some nation in alliance 
 with the Porte. Mr. Blasopulo was protected by the British nation. 
 
 (6) The annexed Plate exhibits thirteen of the most remarkable of the terra cottas 
 found here or at Sicyon, or in other parts of the Peloponnesus. 
 
 Fig. 1. is evidently a Patera ; but for what particular use this vessel was designed 
 by the Greeks, is not so conspicuous. Such pateras are sometimes represented in the 
 hands of female Bacchanals ; possibly therefore it was used for drinking wine : the 
 Turks drink sorbet out of vessels of the same form, but without foot or handle. Virgil, 
 in describing Dido's royal feast, says, " Implevit mero pateram." After the fair Queen 
 had made a libation, she presented the patera to Bitias, who drank the whole of its 
 contents : 
 
 " Turn Bitias dedit iocrepitans : ill© impiger hausit 
 
 Spumantem pateram." 
 
 The blood of victims was received in such vessels ; and it is highly probable that their 
 form was originally derived from the top part of the human scull, used by all the Celtic 
 tribes in drinking the blood of their enemies, and as a drinking vessel. A bumper in 
 Norway is still called a Skool ; and the sorbet cups of the Turks, being without handles 
 and feet, have exactly the shape of the upper part of the cranium. Upon the subject 
 of Pateras, Gale, in his " Court of the Gentiles," has the following observations : " The 
 Levite having killed the victime, the Priest received the blood in a vessel j which Moses 
 (Exod.xx'iv.6.) calls ni3J« Aganoth; and the Chaldee tPpTTD, that is to say, an Aspersorie: 
 the Lxx render it KpaTijpa.<; ; so the Vulgate, Crateras. In imitation -whereof, the Popa 
 having killed the victime, the Priest received the blood in a vessel ; which vessel the 
 Attickscall cqciywv. Homer (Odyss. y.) styles it dfxpioy. the Latin, Pateras. So Virgil 
 
P8P3 
 
 fWAT^vyk ***x.-*^jg ^-wtrr^fl 
 
 
 I ■ ,■»■•.-.?&* ,-*'.*,■* k^v»/j>r i*,.«»W* 1 .•*.■** vt^i'.v "j^v.^.-.i*^. .-J 1 
 
 ,-tow -i V>. ; ^la, ,•*•.'■ r.-.-*^, 
 
 662 
 
 PELOPONNESUS. 
 
 of the most perfect form and exquisite workmanship, was 
 almost covered with a white incrustation, like mortar, as 
 hard as flint. After placing it for thirty-six hours in diluted 
 
 muriatic 
 
 (JEn. I. iii.) ' Sanguinis et sacri pateras; — which he understands of the victimes, as 
 Servius." 
 
 Fig. 2. A Libatory Vessel, four inches in height, painted with dark stripes upon 
 a yellow ground j perhaps for containing oil. It has no orifice above the neck : the 
 only opening is like the spout of a tea-pot, a part being broken off; but the rest is seen 
 between the right handle and the neck of the vessel. 
 
 Fig. 3. A beautiful double-handled Cup and Cover, curiously painted red and black 
 upon a yellow ground, four inches high, and five inches in diameter. It was probably 
 intended for honey, the handles being stouter than in the others, and the cover perhaps 
 designed to preserve its contents from flies or other insects. 
 
 Fig. 4. A Lamp of red clay ; perhaps one of the viprepov dydX/naja mentioned 
 afterwards in the text. Sometimes the representation of a human head is found with 
 a handle and spout, as a drinking vessel, like the toys sold in our potteries. The forms 
 of various animals also occur as lamps and vessels of libation. 
 
 Fig. 5. The Greek Pitcher, for milk, or water, 5^ inches high to the top of the 
 handle, A\ inches to the lip. 
 
 Fig. 6. A Lachrymal Phial of coarse dark clay; nine inches in length: we found 
 several of these in Sicyon. This is the most antient form of the Lachrymatory : in 
 later ages they were smaller, and of glass. " Put thou my tears into thy bottle." 
 Ps. viii. 8. 
 
 Fig. 7. A Lachrymatory, found upon the site of antient Cromyon, of the same 
 material as the preceding : this is A\ inches high. It has white circles upon a dark 
 ground, the common colour of marl. 
 
 Fig. 8. Three of this form, beautiful Libatory Vessels, with black ornaments 
 on a red ground, were found in Epidauria. The plant painted uponthem is that which 
 architects call Acanthus, and antiquaries sometimes the Lotus. 
 
 Fig. Q. Above twenty vessels of this shape, of different sizes, were found in 
 Epidauria ; the largest not being more than four inches high, and about five inches in 
 diameter, of a bright red colour j sometimes almost covered with black varnish, shining 
 like polished jet ; but of the most delicate workmanship, and nearly as thin as paper. 
 
 Fig. 10. A Lamp, of dark, coarse, heavy clay. 
 
 Figs. 11, 12. Small vessels, the largest being only one inch in height, and two inches 
 diameter: perhaps designed for the same use to which they are still applied by modern 
 nations ; namely, as stands for salt. 
 
 Fig. 13. Small Lachrymatory, of red clay. 
 

 A It G O S. 
 
 663 
 
 muriatic acid, during all which time the extraneous cement 
 dissolved with effervescence, there appeared upon its 
 surface a beautiful black varnish, shining like polished jet, 
 not in the slightest degree affected by the acid. Within 
 the lower superficies of the foot of the vessel, the maker's 
 name was expressed by a Greek monogram ; proving either 
 that a Grecian potter was proud to acknowledge this masterly 
 piece of workmanship, or that it was usual to inscribe the 
 names of places celebrated in the manufacture of earthen- 
 ware ; and in this case, the monogram may be intended for 
 MErAPEftN. It consisted of the letters ME, which had been 
 inscribed with the point of a sharp instrument, and written 
 in this manner : AyJ^" 
 
 There were other pateras of the same manufacture, but 
 not entire : also a number of lachrymatories, and tibatory 
 vessels, adorned with monochrome painting; cups resem- 
 bling our sugar-basons, with covers,' variously decorated 
 by yellow, red, and black colours ; singularly formed lamps, 
 some representing human figures ; smaller cups, and however 
 minute in their size, each of these had its double handle. The 
 Baratary shewed to us a very remarkable intaglio, because, 
 although antient, it had been cut in glass of a green colour; 
 the only instance of the kind we had ever seen. 
 
 We requested that our host would in future spare no 
 pains in his endeavours to collect all the terra cottas found 
 in the neighbourhood ; promising him that we would find 
 purchasers for them in England, and patrons who would 
 amply repay him for all his expense and trouble as soon as 
 
 he 
 

 
 664 
 
 CHAP. XVI. 
 
 Ignorance of 
 their sepul- 
 chral use. 
 
 Hecate's 
 Supper. 
 
 PELOPONNESUS. 
 
 he should give us information that he had succeeded in his 
 researches. He said he would gladly undertake the work, 
 if it were only to afford a proof of his gratitude for the 
 protection he enjoyed from the British nation : but we 
 received no intelligence from him afterwards. It is a most 
 extraordinary fact, that in all the elaborate treatises we 
 possess touching the funerals of the Antients, no satisfactory 
 cause has been assigned for the quantity of earthen vases 
 found in Grecian sepulchres. In the View of Charon s Ferry, 
 engraved as a Vignette for a former Chapter, the Cymba 
 sutilis, fashioned like a Welch Coracle, or rather an 
 American canoe 1 , is freighted, besides passengers, with 
 empty Amphorce : but these are not the sort of vases found 
 within any of the tombs ; although sometimes, as symbols 
 of departed souls, they were placed upon the outsidcs of the 
 immediate receptacles for the body 2 . The vases within the 
 graves are of a much finer quality; and sometimes contain 
 little gilded representations of herbs and fruit. There is a 
 passage in the Dialogues of Lucian, where Mercury is asked 
 by Charon what he carries in the satchel, with which we see 
 him so often represented; and he answers, 3 " Lupines, so 
 please you ! and a supper for Hecate." This raillery seems 
 to be levied against a practice among his countrymen, of 
 
 providing 
 
 (1) Herodotus {lib. i.) mentions the boats made of skins. The Scholiast to Apol- 
 lonius Rhodiu-i {lib. ii. v. 168.) describes them as universally in use. 
 
 (2) See p. 528 of this Volume. 
 
 (3) 0f'/)yuoi/v, et diXsic, Kai rfjc 'Eccir^c ro osiirvuv. Luciani Dialog. Mort. Charon,. 
 Menippus, et Hermes. 
 
 
 Mtm 
 
X 
 

 s 
 
 
 .~. ■^.^y.-.s 
 
A It G O S. 
 
 providing deceased persons with some of the good things of , *ff A P - XVI 
 this world, as a passport for their admission to the next ; 
 rather than as an allusion to the monthly offerings made at the 
 expense of the wealthy, when a public (hlvvov) supper was 
 provided for the poor 4 . Hecate's supper, we may suppose, 
 would be regulated by the rank and wealth of the deceased 4 ; 
 lupines being considered as the mean and miserable diet of 
 the lowest persons : and hereby is explained the reason why 
 sometimes a single vase is found, of the poorest quality; 
 and why, in certain instances, the number has been 
 increased to forty, of the most costly workmanship. It 
 should be observed, that Lectisternium, or the custom of 
 giving a supper in a temple to the Gods, may have originated 
 in the funeral feast at tombs, from what has been already 
 said of the origin of temples 6 . . This practice of feasting at 
 funerals has existed from the days of Homer 7 ; and still 
 exists among the descendants of the antient Celts, both in 
 Ireland and Scotland; and it was once common in England 8 . 
 An author has indeed observed, that Lectisternium began 
 
 * about 
 
 Lectister- 
 nium. 
 
 (4) See Potter on the EKATH2IA. Archaeologia Graeca, vol.1, p. 386. Lond. 1751. 
 
 (5) Or by the age ; for of this we have curious testimony in the following answer 
 of Apollo, when interceding for the life of Alcestis : 
 
 h.(fy ypavs, bXrjrac irkovaiug ra^rjaerat. 
 
 (6) See Part I. of these Trav, Ch. XVII. p. 400. Broxl. 1811. 
 
 (7) 6 oi Trarspa kXvtov 'cktu, 
 
 "WtOL 6 T1]r KTSIVCIC CUIVV T(X(j)OV 'ApySlOHTtV 
 
 M.rjTp6c re arvyEpfjt: k<xi aVa'X/ctcoc Klyivdoio. 
 
 Horn. Odyss. lib. iii. 
 
 (S) " the. funeral baked meats 
 
 Did coldly furnish forth the marriage tables." 
 
 Sliakspeare's Hamlet, Act I. sc. ? 
 
 VOL. III. 4 Q 
 
npir* 
 
 w» T ii V«va! »^fs ^^h mm 
 
 ►»,-,■«> 
 
 666 
 
 PELOPONNESUS. 
 
 Probable 
 cause of 
 depositing 
 Earthen 
 Vessels in 
 Sepulchres. 
 
 chap. xvi. about a. u. c. 356. ' that is to say, it was then adopted by 
 the Romans ; but it was a much older ceremony in Greece : 
 and the occasion of its introduction among the Romans 
 shews that it was connected with offerings for the dead*, as 
 it was during a solemn supplication for deliverance from the 
 plague. We do not know precisely the nature of the 
 offering that was placed within any of these earthen vases, 
 in Grecian tombs : the cake of flour and honey (^sXirovroc) 
 was put into the mouth of the deceased, together with a 
 piece of money (tiuvuxti) as Charon s fare, and not into any 
 vessel by the side of the corpse : but there were other 
 offerings, rarely noticed by any writer, of which these 
 vessels may be examples ; namely, the -/.ovpoi that were 
 carried to the grave in honour of the funeral. We have 
 before stated that the sepulchral terra-cottas have sometimes 
 the form of images. Every person who attended the cere- 
 mony of a Grecian funeral brought a complimentary token 
 (rov %6<rpov) of his respect for the deceased; such as Admetus, 
 in Euripides 3 , denied his father the liberty to give to his wife, 
 which all the rest of the company had previously presented. 
 The nature of the yJa-^oi has never been explained ; any more 
 than of the vsgr&gau ccyocX^ocrcx,\ said to be carried by those who 
 followed the corpse ; by some translated imagines ; by others, 
 grata munera. From the light thrown upon the subject by 
 a view of the sepulchres themselves, there is every reason to 
 
 believe 
 
 (1) O. Walker on Coins and Medals, ch. vi. p. 89. Lond. 1697. 
 
 (2) " They joined themselves unto Baal-Peor, and ate the sacrifices of the dead.' 
 Psalms, cvi. 28. 
 
 (3) K6t/u.op Be rov 16v ovttoc' 7} c' ivBvairat.. Euripid. in Ale. v. 630, 
 
 (4) Ibid. v. 612. 
 
 

 A II G O S. gg^ 
 
 believe that these beautiful vases, with all the lamps, lachry- chap.xvi; 
 matories, and earthen vessels, found in Grecian tombs, many 
 of them being highly ornamented, were the gifts alluded to 
 by Euripides, either to the dead, or to the Gods of the dead. 
 Hence perhaps we arrive at the meaning of the Inscription 
 mentioned in the fourteenth Chapter, as found upon an 
 Athenian lamp, — " Socrates, accept this animal!" Pure clay 
 was an offering to the Gods 5 . Another curious subject of 
 inquiry suggested by the sight of them is, Whence the origin of the 
 custom originated ? for it is undoubtedly of much earlier 
 date than any thing purely Grecian. It is impossible to 
 discuss this question here ; but it may briefly be stated, that 
 in the most antient sepulchres of the Celts, in all parts of 
 Europe, earthen vessels are also found of the simplest form 
 and rudest workmanship, apparently possessing a degree of 
 antiquity far beyond the age denoted by any of the Grecian 
 terra- cott as. Pausanias mentions a terra-cotta Soros that was 
 dug up at Argos, supposed to have been that wherein Ariadne 
 had been buried ; thereby demonstrating its great antiquity 6 . 
 Such vessels are also found in the Tumuli or Mounds of 
 Tartary, and in North America ; their situation, construc- 
 tion, form, and contents, being so similar, that there can be 
 no hesitation in ascribing their origin to the same people 7 . 
 
 The 
 
 (5) See Greek Marbles, p. 70. Camb.lSOQ. 
 
 (6) Kepa^eav aopov. Paus. Corinth, c. 23. p. l64. ed. Kuhnii. 
 
 (7) See Harris's Tour into the Territory North-west of the Alleghany Mountains, 
 p. 175. Boston, 1605. 
 
HHWWj'-"-- J/ ^ Sr^Tf 
 
 668 
 
 CHAP. XV!. 
 
 PELOPONNESUS 
 
 The supposed tomb of Theseus, opened by Cimon son of 
 Miltiades, in the Isle of Scyros, from the description given 
 of the weapons found within it, appears to have been one 
 of these aboriginal sepulchres. De Stchlin, who was 
 secretary to the Imperial Academy at Petersburg, declared 
 that there is not one instance of such a Tumulus bein'g found 
 to the northward of the fifty-eighth degree of north lati- 
 tude 1 . This perhaps is doubtful. A full account of those 
 monuments ought to constitute an independent work ; and 
 whenever the subject is properly treated, the observations 
 it is calculated to introduce will illustrate a part of history 
 hitherto entirely unknown. 
 
 We employed the whole of this day in examining the 
 Town and its Ruins ; a period certainly too short for the 
 undertaking ; but where much is to be effected, some things 
 must be done quickly. Argos is a large straggling place, 
 full of cottages, with few good houses: and, as we have 
 before alluded to Celtic remains in. this part of Peloponnesus, 
 it may be proper to mention, that the roofs here are not 
 flat, as in almost all parts of the East, but slope like those 
 of Northern nations. The same style of building may 
 be observed in Athens, and in other parts of Greece. 
 Whether introduced by Albanian workmen, or owing tc 
 customs which antiently existed in the country, we have not 
 been able to learn. The women were busjed in collecting 
 their cotton from the fields ; and at this season of the yeai 
 
 al. 
 
 (l) See Harris's Tour, p. 171- Boston, 1805. 
 
 / 
 
a R G O S. 
 
 all the marriages take place. The present population consists chap.xvi. 
 
 of six thousand, including females and children 2 . There is Population. 
 
 a school kept by a Greek priest. Being desirous to know 
 
 what the children were taught, we visited the master, who 
 
 seemed pleased by our inquiries, as if he had bestowed pains 
 
 upon hfs scholars. He said they were instructed in writing, 
 
 arithmetic, astronomy, physic, and rhetoric. About forty 
 
 years before, it had been customary for the principal families 
 
 of Nauplia and Argos to send their children to Athens for 
 
 instruction. The Consul at Nauplia had been there educated : 
 
 it was in giving us an account of his journeys to Athens 
 
 that we first heard any mention made of the Statue of Ce?*es 
 
 at Eleusis ; for this had excited his curiosity when a boy, 
 
 and was regularly visited by him in his way to and from 
 
 Athens. The houses in Argos are built with a degree of 
 
 regularity, and fitted up with some comforts uncommon in 
 
 this part of the world, although in other respects wretched 
 
 hovels. They are all ranged in right lines, or in parallel 
 
 lines ; and each house consisting of a single story has 
 
 an oven ; so that even the Albanians do not bake their 
 
 unleavened cakes upon the hearth, as it is usual elsewhere 
 
 in their cottages. From Ar^os, the distance to Mantinea 
 
 is only eight hours ; and it is but a day's journey to Tripo- 
 
 lizza, the capital of the Morea. When we heard this, and 
 
 the pressing invitation of our Baratary to visit with him 
 
 a part of Arcadia, whose mountains are actually visible 
 
 from 
 
 (2) " Not four thousand," according to Mr. Gell; {I tin. of Greece, p. 6g.) perhaps 
 opt including children and women. 
 
a^s^jTOf 1 ?ot«W; r***^F l^p 1 ^ hh 
 
 670 
 
 CHAP. XVI. 
 
 PELOPONNESUS. 
 
 from the Citadel, and also to extend our journey to 
 Misitra, we gladly ordered horses for the expedition ; but a 
 powerful antidote to enterprise, the mat- aria fever, returning 
 amongst us with its most violent paroxysms during the 
 night, had so considerably reduced our stock of energies 
 before the morning, that with deep regret we were com- 
 pelled to abandon the design of seeing Mantinea, Megalopolis, 
 and Sparta, and to adhere to our original plan. How 
 few are the travellers who have seen the interior of the 
 Morea ! and in that small number, where may we look for 
 one who has given any intelligence that may be called 
 information, respecting the Ruins of the cities which that 
 country is known to contain 1 ? Perhaps the time is at hand 
 when we shall know more of a region as easily to be visited 
 as the County of Derbyshire, and where the traveller is not 
 exposed to half the dangers encountered every night in 
 
 the 
 
 (l) Yes ! there is one traveller, whose qualifications for this purpose are well 
 known, and have been already noticed in this Work ; but who could never be prevailed 
 upon to estimate the value of his own observations high enough to induce him to 
 publish them. This traveller is John Hawkins, M.A. of Trinity College, Cambridge: 
 and as any thing coming from one who has the satisfaction to rank among his friends, 
 may be imputed to partiality, an Extract from the MS. Letters of Colonel Squire to 
 his brother may here be considered appropriate. " With Greece" {says Col. Squire) 
 " our most learned scholars have but a small acquaintance: few 'travellers have 
 published their observations ; many events in history have been misunderstood ; and 
 translators and commentators have been entirely bewildered, owing to their ignorance 
 of its topography. The writers, to whom we refer as our best authorities, are trifling, 
 inaccurate, and superficial. There is, however, a Gentleman in England, Mr. Hawkins, 
 brother of Sir Christopher Hawkins, a man of shrewd sagacity, erudition, and inde- 
 fatigable exertion, who has explored every part of the country, and now possesses 
 very ample means to render a signal service by the publication of the materials he has 
 collected." Colonel Squires MS. Correspondence. 
 

 ARGOS. 
 
 6/1 
 
 the neighbourhood of London. Groundless apprehensions, chap. xvi. 
 calculated only to alarm children, concerning imaginary 
 banditti, and the savage nature of its inhabitants, have been 
 hitherto powerful enough to prevent travellers from exploring 
 its interior ; but these are beginning to vanish ; and we may 
 hope that many years will not elapse before the shepherds 
 of Arcadia and Laconia, of Messenia and Elis, will have 
 become as good guides to the antiquities of their mountains 
 and valleys, as the natives of Puzzoli now are to the Ruins 
 of Baice. 
 
 The antiquities of Argos, once so numerous 2 , may Antiquities. 
 now be comprised within a very short list. It will be 
 useful for other travellers if we give a brief summary, 
 omitting statues and altars, as they existed in the second 
 century ; and then introduce a description of the principal 
 remains, as we found them ; for these are not likely to be 
 much affected by any lapse of time. It is useless to refer 
 to Strabo upon this occasion, because he was not upon the 
 spot ; but Pausanias, as abrorryig, coming from Myeence to 
 Argos, before he arrives at the Inachus, mentions the Hieron 
 of Ceres Mysias ; containing one of those curious temples 
 of which we discovered some remains in Epidauria ; (Nao$ 
 oTrrrig kXUQov) not merely a temple roofed with baked tiles 
 (for it stood within another building originally itself roofed, 
 although in ruins when Pausanias saw it), but actually 
 a terra-cotta temple. The fragments of this building may 
 yet be discerned ; although we could find no part of it so 
 
 entire 
 
 (2) See the long list of them in the Second Book of Pausanias, chapters 18, 19, 20, 
 21, 22, 23, 24, from p. 149 to p. 167, of the edition by Kuhnius. Lips. 169G. 
 
jyt^rs*—* 
 
 W">: 
 
 ■■ $?m 
 
 67 c 2 
 
 PELOPONNESUS. 
 
 chap. xvi. entire as the beautiful terra-cotta cornice and frieze we had 
 been so fortunate as to ..discover in Epidauria. Thence 
 entering Argos, by the Gate of Lucina, the same author 
 notices in the lower city, as the most conspicuous 1 of all the 
 temples, that of Apollo Lycias. Afterwards, it is difficult to 
 enumerate all the other temples mentioned by him, because 
 we do not distinctly know what he intends by the word c Iefo», 
 as distinguished from Naoj. Thus, for example, he mentions 
 the most anticnt Temple* of Fortune, and the Hieron of the 
 Hours 3 . We have proved already that Hieron does not 
 necessarily signify a Temple, nor even a building: any thing 
 containing what was sacred received this appellation ; a Cave; 
 a Grove ; a portable Shrine ; and perhaps a Clepsydra. There 
 were, however, many Temples in Argos. There were also 
 Sepulchres and Coenotaphs ; a Theatre; a Forum; a Mound of 
 Earth', believed to be the Tomb of the head of the Gorgon 
 Medusa ; a Gymnasium ; and a subterraneous edifice. After this, 
 beginning his ascent towards the Acropolis, Pausanias notices 
 the Hieron of Juno Acrcva, and a Temple of Apollo, situated 
 upon a ridge called Diras*. Here was an Oracle, where 
 answers were given so lately as the time when Pausanias saw 
 the temple. Close to this temple there was also a Stadium*', 
 and this circumstance is enough to prove that by Diras 
 Pausanias does not mean the summit of the hill; for 
 
 after 
 
 (i) 'ErrKpayiararoy. lib. ii. c. 1(). p. 152. ed. Kuhnii. 
 
 (2) Tv'^/c effrlv k iraXaiotdrov NA02. Ibid. c. 20. p. 154. 
 
 (3) 'fljOfJc 'IEPON evriv. -Ibid. p. 155. 
 
 (4) X«>a yij'j itrnv, lv U aur? KeltrQat t>)v Mccovcrtjr Xiyovffi rijs Topy6vot 
 KefaXtjy. Ibid. p. 159- 
 
 (5) "On Kai 6 roirot; ovtok KaXehat AEIPAS. Ibid. C. 24. p. 165. 
 
 (6) Ibid. 
 
ARGOS 
 
 673 
 
 after leaving the Stadium he continues his ascent by the chap . xvi. 
 monument of the sons of JEgyptus, on the left-hand side of 
 his road, until he arrives (W axga) upon the summit called 
 Larissa, where he finds the temples of Jupiter Larissceus 
 and of Minerva. And in a subsequent part of his description, 
 speaking of the roads from Argos to Mantinasa 7 , and to 
 Lyrcea% he says they began from the gates near Diras; 
 consequently the Oracular Temple must have been lower 
 than the summit, although upon the hill of the Acropolis. 
 With so much information, and some of the monuments 
 yet remaining in Argos, it would not be difficult for a 
 traveller, having leisure and opportunity, to complete a plan 
 of the antient city. This our time would not permit ; but we 
 ascertained some of the antiquities : and first the Theatre, Antiquities. 
 upon the south-eastern side of the hill of the Acropolis ; one 
 of the principal objects noticed by Pausanias upon entering 
 the city. Some of the sepulchres also may be observed. 
 
 The Theatre is a very remarkable structure. As usual, Theatre. 
 it is entirely an excavation of the rock; but it differs 
 from every other theatre we saw in Greece, in having two 
 wings, with seats, one on either side of the Cavea ; so that 
 it might be described as a triple Coil-on. We could not 
 conceive for what purpose these side cavities were designed ; 
 unless for minor representations ; or as steps in ascending to 
 the central sweep : but if the latter were intended, there 
 
 would 
 
 VOL. III. 
 
 (7) Pausan. Corinth, c.25. p. 167. 
 
 (8) Ibid. 
 
 4 R 
 
^M sSPfs SfSff g££ SfS^tf-j ■ 
 
 674 
 
 CHAP. XVI. 
 
 Huron of 
 Venus. 
 
 PELOPONNESUS. 
 
 would have been no necessity for the curved shape that has 
 been given to them ; making the whole structure wear the 
 appearance rather of three theatres than of one. Within the 
 centre Cavea there were sixty-four seats remaining ; the 
 height of each seat being thirteen inches. Opposite to this 
 structure are the remains of a very large edifice, built entirely 
 of tiles ; probably a part of the Castellum {•xju^'ov) which 
 was near to the Theatre ; called Criterion, once a court or 
 tribunal of judgment. Above the Theatre 1 was the 
 Hieron of Venus; and this we certainly found. Within this 
 temple there was a statue of the Poetess Telesilla, the 
 Manuella Sancho of her day; who, like the modern 
 heroine of Saragossa at the head of a band of female 
 warriors, repelled from the walls of the city the enemies of 
 her country, when the Lacedaemonians attacked Argos. 
 '* She was represented," says Pausanias*, " standing upon a 
 pillar, with the books of her poetry scattered at her feet, in 
 the act of regarding a helmet which she was about to put 
 upon her head." And when the Spanish Telesilla, who has 
 so nobly followed the example offered by her Grecian 
 predecessor, shall have a monument consecrated to the 
 memory of her illustrious achievements, her countrymen 
 may find in this description a classical model for its 
 
 design. 
 
 (1) The expression is wrip It to Qiarpov : and this by Amasaeus (vid. Pans. Cor. 
 r. 20. p. 156. ed. Kuhnii) is rendered supra theatrum ; but wrip, in many instances, 
 is by Pausanias used to signify leyond ; that is to say, the next object occurring in 
 the line of his observation. In this instance the building alluded to was above the 
 Theatre, upon the hill towards the Acropolis. 
 
 (2) Vid. Paus. in Corinth, c.20. pp. 156, 157. ed. Kuhnii. 
 
A 11 G O S. 
 
 675 
 
 design. The site of the Hieron is now occupied by a Greek t CHAp. xvr. 
 chapel, but it contains the remains of columns whose 
 capitals are of the most antient Corinthian order ; a style of 
 building unknown in our country, scarcely a model of it 
 having ever been seen in England ; although it far exceeds 
 in beauty and simplicity the gaudy and crowded foliage of 
 the later Corinthian. The temples of Venus being generally 
 of the Corinthian order, we have reason to believe that the 
 Hieron, in this instance, was one of them ; and we have there- 
 fore, in this chapel, another point of observation, as a beacon, 
 in ascertaining the antiquities enumerated by Pausanias. 
 We observed this building in our way down from the Citadel 
 towards the sea ; therefore it will be better to describe the 
 objects first noticed in our ascent from the modern town. 
 
 Going up to the fortress, we saw towards our left, 
 that is to say, upon the north-eastern side of the hill 
 of the Acropolis, the ridge called Diras by Pausanias, 
 where the Temple of Apollo Diradiotes was situated. 
 A monastery now occupies the site of the temple, standing 
 upon a high rock, with precipices above and below. 
 It is said to contain a cavern, well suited to the contri- 
 vance necessary for the oracles 5 delivered here in the time 
 of that author. Afterwards, as we proceeded, we saw the 
 remains of antient works also upon our left ; and it was upon 
 his left hand in ascending to the Acropolis that Pausanias 
 
 observed 
 
 (3) See Gelis It'ni. of Greece, p. 67. Mr. Gell says, there is here also space 
 enough for a Stadium ; and this agrees with the description of Pausanias, who says 
 the Stadium adjoined the Temple of Apollo. 
 
 Diras. 
 
■■ p*p* ggg $m 
 
 6^6 PELOPONNESUS. 
 
 ■ Cr ? AI J™' observed a monument of the sons of MgyptusK The way up 
 a mountain is little liable to alteration ; and probably the 
 track we pursued was nearly, if not entirely, the same that 
 was trodden by him. The fortress itself is evidently a 
 modern building, for its walls contain fragments of anti- 
 quities used as materials in building them'; but on the sides 
 cyclopia. and lower part of it we observed the remains of Qyclope'an 
 architecture, as antient as the Citadel of Tiryns, and built in 
 the same style. This structure is mentioned by Pausanias, 
 in his seventh book ; where he states that the inhabitants of 
 Mycenae were unable to demolish the wall of the Argives, 
 built, like that of Tiryns, by the Cyclops 3 . The Cyclopean 
 ivalls and towers of Argos are also noticed by Euripides, 
 Polybius, and Seneca. Hence we had a glorious view of 
 almost all Argolis, and great part of the Arcadian territory, 
 even to the mountains of Laconia, visible from this 
 eminence 4 . Placed centrally with regard to the Sinus 
 Argolicus, the eye surveys the Laconian and Argolic Pro- 
 montories ; and looks down upon Nauplia, Tiryns, and all 
 the south-western side of the Gulph, almost with the same 
 facility as it regards the streets of Argos. We saw the 
 
 A Icyonian 
 
 (1) 'Ec oi Ttjv dk'poTroXiv iovaiv %ffTiv iv dptanpq rrjc o£ov tmv Alyvrrov runu' 
 Kal tuvttj nvtjfxa. Pausan. in Corinth, c. 24. p. 165. ed. Kuhnii. 
 
 (2) Mr. Gell found here a very antient Inscription j and says that VUloison intimate} 
 the existence of a very curious one at Argos. See Win. of Greece, p. 68. Land. 1S10, 
 
 (3) Pausan. in Corinth, lib. vii. c. 25. p. 589- ed. Kuhnii. 
 
 (4) See this prospect as engraved from a most accurate drawing made upon thi 
 spot by Mr. Gell. [tin. of Greece, Plate xix. p. 68. Land. 1810. 
 
A R G O S. 
 
 677 
 
 CHAP. XVI. 
 
 AJcifoman Lake in the last direction, now a weedy pool 5 
 
 the natives of Argos relate of it, as did Pausanias 6 , that Aicyonian 
 
 ° ' Lake. 
 
 nothing swims upon its waters. On this side of the Gulph 
 we saw also the Plain of herna, once fabled to be infested 
 with the Hydra; and, in the same direction, the road 
 leading to TripoUzza, until it lost itself in the mountains ; 
 following with our eyes great part of a journey we were 
 desirous to accomplish more effectually. 
 
 Hence we descended towards the sea; and came to the 
 remains of the Temple of Venus before mentioned, above the 
 Theatre, where the Greek chapel is situated 7 . We were 
 unable to discover any remains of the Stadium ; but this, in all 
 probability, will not elude the researches of other travellers. 
 After again visiting the Theatre, we found, at. the foot of 
 the hill of the Acropolis, one of the most curious tell-tale 
 remains yet discovered among the vestiges of Pagan priest- 
 craft : it was nothing less than one of the Oracular Shrines 
 
 of 
 
 Oracular 
 Shrine. 
 
 (5) There cannot, however, be much alteration in this piece of water since the 
 time of Pausanias ; who describes it as a pool, measuring in diameter only one third 
 of a stadium (about seventy-three yards), and lying amongst grass and bulrushes. 
 (Vid. Pausan. in Corinth, c. 37. p. 200. ed. Kuhnii.) As to its prodigious depth, it 
 would be curious to ascertain what foundation there was for the account given of its 
 fathomless nature, by the same author ; who relates that Nero could not reach the 
 bottom with lead fastened to ropes many stadia in length. 
 
 (6) The account given of it by Pausanias is, that it draws persons to the bottom 
 who venture to swim upon its surface. The same sort of story is often related, by the 
 common people in this country, of any deep water. 
 
 (7) Mr. Gell afterwards found here a broken Inscription, " evidently," he says, 
 " relating to Venus." It were to be wished, although a fragment, that he had 
 preserved and published it; as an inscription so decidedly identifying one of the 
 beacons mentioned by Pausanias would materially tend to facilitate future researches 
 upon the spot. See Gells Itin. of Greece, p, 64. Lond. 1810. 
 
|HH HM H^? ' «SJ»J» fT?pr«nEJjffC 
 
 678 
 
 CHAP. XVI. 
 
 PELOPONNESUS. 
 
 of Argos alluded to by Pausanias, laid open to inspection, 
 like the toy a child has broken in order that he may see 
 the contrivance whereby it was made to speak. A more- 
 interesting sight for modern curiosity can hardly be 
 conceived to exist among the ruins of any Grecian city.. 
 In its original state, it had been a temple ; the farther part: 
 from the entrance, where the altar was, being an excavationi 
 of the rock, and the front and roof constructed with baked 
 tiles. The altar yet remains, and part of the fictile super- 
 structure : but the most remarkable part of the whole 
 is a secret subterraneous passage, terminating behind the 
 altar ; its entrance being at a considerable distance towards 
 the right of a person facing the altar ; and so cunningly 
 contrived as to have a small aperture, easily concealed, and 
 level with the surface of the rock. This was barely large 
 enough to admit the entrance of a single person ; who 
 having descended into the narrow passage, might creep 
 along until he arrived immediately behind the center of 
 the altar; where, being hid by some colossal statue or 
 other screen, the sound of his voice would produce a most 
 imposing effect among the humble votaries, prostrate 
 beneath, who were listening in silence upon the floor of the 
 sanctuary. We amused ourselves for a few minutes by 
 endeavouring to mimic the sort of solemn farce acted upon 
 these occasions : and as we delivered a mock oracle, ore 
 rotunda, from the cavernous throne of the altar, a rever- 
 beration, caused by the sides of the rock, afforded a 
 tolerable specimen of the " will of the Gods" as it was 
 formerly made known to the credulous votaries of this 
 
 now- 
 
CHAP. XVI. 
 
 A R G O S. 679 
 
 now-forgotten shrine. There were not fewer than twenty- 
 five of these juggling places in Peloponnesus, and as many 
 in the single province of Boeotia : and surely it will never 
 again become a question among learned men, whether 
 the answers in them were given by the inspiration of evil 
 spirits, or whether they proceeded from the imposture of 
 priests ; neither can it again be urged that they ceased at 
 the birth of Christ; because Pausanias bears testimony to 
 their existence at Argos in the second century 1 . Perhaps it 
 was to the particular shrine now described that his evidence 
 refers : its position, however, does not exactly warrant this 
 opinion ; for the oracle he mentions corresponded rather 
 with the situation of the monastery upon a ridge of the hill 
 of the Acropolis. In this situation he places other shrines ; 
 namely, the Hieron of Jupiter Saviour, together with a cell 
 (ol'xrspa) or abiding place, where the Argive women were 
 wont to mourn the death of Adonis 2 : and as not only 
 Heathen deities, but also heroes, were rendered subservient to 
 these purposes of priestcraft, the worship of Adonis might 
 have contributed to swell the list of temples where oracles 
 were delivered. Near to the same spot we saw the remains other Re- 
 of an Aqueduct : and to this there seems also an allusion by city™ c 
 Pausanias, in the obscure account he gives of a channel 
 
 conducting 
 
 (1) Ma vTtvi rat yap 'en ku\ c? tyyuac. Vid. Pausan. in Corinth, c. 24. p. 1&5. 
 ed. Kuhnii. 
 
 (2) Kai Aid', ianv ivravda iepov (Tu>Ttjpos. ical vapiovoiv eli to o'ticijjua, ivravda 
 rdv ABuviv ui yvvaiKCt 'A/jyuW olvpovTCU. Ibid. c. 20. p. 156. 
 

 
 •'; r *r ; WW;l 
 
 680 
 
 PELOPONNESUS. 
 
 chap. xvi. conducting the water of the Cephissus beneath a temple 
 dedicated to that river 1 . But there are other appearances of 
 subterraneous structures requiring considerable attention ; 
 some of these are upon the hill : they are covered, like the 
 Cyclopean gallery of Tiryns, with large approaching stones, 
 meeting so as to form an arched way which is only visible 
 where these stones are open 2 . Among them the traveller 
 may look for the subterraneous edifice with the brazen 
 Thalamus constructed by Acrisius for his daughter 3 . There 
 is also a large church at the southern extremity of the 
 town, containing fragments of Ionic columns and inscrip- 
 tions 4 . One of the mosques is said to have been erected 
 with blocks brought from the Grove of JEsculapius in 
 Epidauria 5 : the same circumstance was also alluded to by 
 Chandler 6 . Perhaps the time may arrive when a more 
 enlightened people than the Turks will again bring to light 
 the valuable antiquities there concealed ; although the 
 acquisition should be obtained even at so great an expense 
 as that of taking down and rebuilding a Mahometan place 
 of worship. 
 
 We have now concluded our very cursory survey of 
 
 Argos; 
 
 (1) Pausan. in Corinth, c. 20. p. 156. ed. Kuhnii. 
 
 (2) Gell's Itin. of Greece, p. 66. Lond. 1810. 
 
 (3) Pausan. ut supra, c. 23. p. 164. 
 
 (4) Gell's Itin. of Greece, p. 69. 
 
 (5) Ibid. 
 
 (6) See Chandler's Trav. in Greece, p. 226. Oxf. 1776. Also the precediig 
 Chapter of this Volume. 
 
A R G O S. 
 
 681 
 
 CHAP. XVI. 
 
 Argos; but we shall not quit the reliques of this memorable 
 
 city, without briefly noticing a circumstance in its history, Character of 
 
 the Antient 
 
 to which little attention seems to have been paid by the Argives. 
 compilers of Grecian annals ; namely, its illustrious cha- 
 racter, as founded on the noble examples offered in the 
 actions of its citizens. If Athens, by arts, by military talents, 
 and by costly solemnities, became •" one of the Eyes of 
 Greece," there was in the humanity of Argos, and in the good 
 feeling frequently displayed by its inhabitants, a distinction 
 which comes nearer to the heart. Something characteristic 
 of the people may be observed even in a name given to 
 one of their Divinities; for they worshipped a " God of 
 Meekness 1 ." It may be said, perhaps, of the Argive cha- 
 racter, that it was less splendid than the Athenian, and 
 less rigid than the Lacedaemonian, but it was also less 
 artificial ; and the contrast it exhibited, when opposed to the 
 infamous profligacy of Corinth, where the manners of the 
 people, corrupted by wealth and luxury, were further 
 vitiated by the great influx of foreigners 8 , rendered Argos, 
 in the days of her prosperity, one of the most enviable cities 
 of Greece. The stranger who visited Athens might indeed 
 
 regard 
 
 (7) The Argives gave to one of their Gods the name, MuXiyiov Aioc, of the Meek 
 God, or Mild Jupiter. Vid. Pausan. in Cor. c. 20. p. 154. 
 
 (8) " Ex hac peregrinorum horainum colluvie, necesse erat et civium mores cor- 
 rumpi. Quapropter Lacedaemonii, quorum gravis et severa semper fuit Resp. nullos 
 ad se peregrinos recipiebant, ne alienigenis ritibus urbis optime constitute status ever- 
 teretur." Gerbclius in Corinth. Descript. ap. Gronov. Thes. Grcec. Antiq. torn. IV. p. 51. 
 L. Bat. 1699. 
 
 VOL. III. 4 S 
 
U&33U 
 
 ^y.flr/ij %i'kj-'-- 
 
 
 
 ■ 
 
 682 
 
 CHAP. XVI. 
 
 View of the 
 Argive Plain. 
 
 PELOPONNESUS. 
 
 regard with an eager curiosity the innumerable trophies 
 everywhere suspended, of victors in her splendid games ; 
 might admire her extensive porticoes, crowded with philo- 
 sophers ; might gaze with wonder at the productions of 
 her artists; might revere her magnificent temples; — but 
 feelings more affecting were called forth in beholding the 
 numerous monuments of the Argives, destined to perpetuate 
 the memory of individuals who had rendered themselves 
 illustrious only by their virtues 1 . 
 
 On Tuesday morning, November the tenth, we took 
 leave of the hospitable Baratary, fraught with a rich cargo 
 of Grecian pottery ; and set out for Mycence, the city of 
 Agamemnon, anticipating a treat among those Ruins for 
 which Lusieri had already prepared us. We entered the 
 spacious Plain of Argos, level as the still surface of a calm 
 sea, and extending in one rich field, with the most fertile 
 soil, from the mouths of the Inachus towards the north. 
 Having again crossed the dry channel of the XAPAAPfiAHX 
 IIOTAMOI, and looking back towards the Larissean Citadel, the 
 lofty conical hill of the Acropolis appeared rising in the midst 
 of this plain, as if purposely contrived to afford a bulwark for 
 dominion, and for the possession of this valuable land ; which, 
 
 like 
 
 (]) Witness the filial piety of Cleolis and Biton, to whom the Argives also erected 
 statues at Delphi; the heroism of Telesilla, in rescuing the city from its enemies 5 the 
 conduct of another Argive woman, who saved her son's life by slaying Pyrrhus ; &c. 
 &c. " Heec urls plurimis exemplis ad virtutem nos excitantihus alundavit." Gerbel. 
 ap. Gronov. &c. p. 52. 
 
 Hiuiitifiyi 
 
FROM ARGOS TO MYCEN M. 
 
 683 
 
 like a vast garden, is walled in by mountains". Such was chap . xvi. 
 
 the inviting aspect exhibited by the Argive territory to the 
 
 earliest settlers in this country. No labour was necessary, 
 
 as amidst the forests and unbroken soil of the North of 
 
 Europe and of America : the colonies, upon their arrival, 
 
 found an open field, with a rich impalpable soil, already 
 
 prepared by Providence to yield an abundant harvest to the 
 
 first adventurer who should scatter seed upon its surface. 
 
 We cannot therefore wonder, that within a district not 
 
 containing more square miles than the most considerable 
 
 of our English parishes, there should have been established, 
 
 in the earliest periods of its history, four capital cities, 
 
 Argos, Mycenae, Tiryns, and Nauplia, each contending with 
 
 the other for superiority ; or that every roaming colony who 
 
 should chance to explore the Argolic Gulph endeavoured to 
 
 fortify a position upon some rock near to the plain, and 
 
 struggle for its possession. This is all that seems necessary 
 
 to illustrate the first dawnings of government, not only 
 
 within this district, but in every part of the HeUenian 
 
 territories : and the fables transmitted from one generation 
 
 to another, concerning the contest between Neptune and Juno Fabulous Con- 
 
 test between 
 
 for the country, as between Neptune and Minerva for Attica, Neptune and 
 may be regarded as so many records of those physical 
 revolutions, in preceding ages, which gave birth to these 
 fertile regions ; when the waters of the sea slowly retired 
 from the land ; or, according to the language of poetry and 
 
 fable, 
 
 (2) See the former Section, Ch. IV. p. 74, on the allurements offered to the early 
 settlers in Greece by the appearance of the country. 
 

 684 
 
 PELOPONNESUS. 
 
 :hap.xvi. f a b]e. were said to have reluctantly abandoned the plains 
 of Greece 1 . 
 
 About five miles from Argos, on the left side of the 
 road, we found the remains of an antient structure, which at 
 first we supposed to be those of the Herceum, a temple once 
 common to the two cities of Mycence and Argos; when 
 the twin brothers, Acrisius and Proctus, who were grandsons 
 of Belus, possessed the two capitals, and worshipped the same 
 tutelary Deity 2 . This position of it corresponds, in some 
 degree, with its situation, according to Pausanias ; but not in 
 all respects. He describes the distance from Mycence to Argos 
 as equal to fifty stadia (6| miles), and the Herceum as being 
 at the distance of fifteen stadia (one mile and seven furlongs) 
 from that city. But he places it to the left 3 of the city, and 
 upon the lower part 4 of a mountain near a flowing stream called 
 Eleutherion. The last observations do not permit us to 
 consider the remains of this structure as being any part of 
 the Herceum; as they are situated in the plain, and not close 
 to any rivulet or water-course. But near to this structure 
 there was another Ruin, whose foundations more resembled 
 
 the 
 
 (1) By attention to natural phenomena upon the spot, some light may certain! j 
 be thrown upon the antient fables of the country. A very happy illustration of the 
 origin of the Hydra, which infested the Plain of Lerna, near Argos, was taken from the 
 MS. Journal of the Earl of Aberdeen, by Mr. Gell, and is found in a Note to his Work 
 See 1 tin. of Greece, p. /Q. Loud. IS JO. 
 
 (2) Kcu to 'Hpaiov Etvai koivov icpov to irpoc tois MvKrjpaic d/Aibolv, K. r. X 
 Strabon. Geog lib. viii. p. 539. Ed. Oxon. 
 
 (3) Vid. Paus n in Corinth, c. 17. p. 147. Ed.Kuhnii. 
 
 (4) Vid. Pausan. ut supra. 
 
FROM ARGOS TO MYCEN.E. 
 
 685 
 
 the oblong form of a temple: it was built with baked chap. xvi. 
 bricks, and originally lined with marble. Here, then, there 
 seems every reason to believe we discovered the remains mermot 
 of the whole Hieron of Ceres Mysias, noticed by Pausanias 
 in his road from My cents to Argos, by a description very appli- 
 cable to these Ruins. He says 5 the building had no roof, but 
 contained within another temple of brick-work; and that 
 the traveller going thence towards Argos, arrived at the 
 river Inachus. In the different facts the Reader may have 
 collected from this and the preceding Chapter, concerning 
 the remains of antient art in Argolis, he will have perceived 
 the very general prevalence of terra cotta in works of much 
 higher antiquity than it is usual to suppose were constructed Antiquity of 
 
 . ... . . fictile materi- 
 
 ol this material. A vulgar notion has prevailed, that this ais in building, 
 style of building was for the most part Roman. When tiles 
 or bricks have been found in the walls and foundations of 
 edifices, among the ruins of Eastern cities, it has been 
 usual to attribute to the structure a Roman origin, and, 
 consequently, to consider works of this kind as of a date 
 posterior to the decline of the Eastern Empires. That this 
 mode of ascertaining the age of buildings is liable to error 
 may perhaps now be evident. The statement of a single 
 fact, if other satisfactory evidence could not be adduced, 
 would be sufficient to prove the antiquity of such works ; 
 for example, that of the tile, or brick 6 , whereby the scull 
 
 of 
 
 (5) Vid. Pausan. in Corinth, c. IS. p. 150. Ed. Kuhnii. 
 
 (6) Kepct/Aos. Vid. Pausan. Attica, c. 13. p. 33. Ed. Kuhnii. 
 
^H 
 
 jjBSjff 9R9EI b5hi< 
 
 CHAP. XVI. 
 
 fo'gb' PELOPONNESUS. 
 
 of Pyrrhus was fractured, when he attempted to take the 
 city of Argos by storm. Indeed, in some instances, the 
 Romans, finding antient structures in Greece had gone to 
 decay because they were built with baked or crude tiles and 
 bricks, repaired them with different materials. Of this there 
 is an example recorded by Pausanias, and already alluded to 
 in the account of Epidauria 1 . After leaving this Ruin, we 
 returned into the road ; and quitting the plain, bore off 
 upon our right, towards the east, by a rocky ascent along 
 the channel of a water- course, towards the regal residence 
 Mycence. of Agamemnon, and city of Perseus, built before the War 
 
 of Troy, full thirteen centuries anterior to the Christian 
 cera. Already the walls of the Acropolis began to appear 
 upon an eminence between two lofty conical mountains : 
 the place is now called Carvato. Even its Ruins were 
 unknown eighteen hundred years ago, when Straho wrote his 
 account of the Peloponnesus : he says of Mycence, that not a 
 vestige of the city remained 2 . Eighty of its heroes accom- 
 panied the Spartans to the defile of Thermopylae, and share! 
 with them the glory of their immortal deed 3 : this so muci 
 excited the jealousy of the sister city, Argos, that it was 
 never afterwards forgiven : the Argives, stung by the recol- 
 lection of the opportunity they had thus lost of signalizing 
 
 themselves, 
 
 (1) Pausan. Corinth, c. T] . See also the preceding Chapter of this Volume. 
 
 (2) ''flare vvv p,t\V i-^voe EvpiaKtaQai rjjic Mi/o/vcuW ndXtac. Strabon. Geot. 
 lib. viii. p. 540. Ed. Oxon. 
 
 (3) Pausan. Corinth, c. 16. p. 140. Ed. Kuhnii. 
 
MYCENjE. 
 
 687 
 
 Ruins. 
 
 themselves, and unable to endure the superior fame of their chap.xvi. 
 neighbour, made war against Mycence, and destroyed the 
 city 4 : this happened in the first year of the seventy-eighth 
 Olympiad 5 ; nearly five centuries before the birth of Christ. 
 "In that region," says Pausanias, " which is called Argolis, 
 nothing is remembered of greater antiquity than this circum- 
 stance 6 ." It is not merely the circumstance of seeing the 
 architecture and the sculpture of the heroic ages, which 
 renders a view of Mycence one of the highest gratifications 
 a literary traveller can experience: the consideration of its state of the 
 remaining, at this time, exactly as Pausanias saw it in the 
 second century, and in such a state of preservation that an 
 alto-relievo described by him yet exists in the identical position 
 he has assigned for it, adds greatly to the interest excited by 
 these remarkable Ruins : indeed, so singularly does the 
 whole scene correspond with his account of the place, that, 
 in comparing them together, it might be supposed a single 
 hour had not elapsed since he was himself upon the spot. 
 The first thing that we noticed, as we drew nigh to the 
 gate of the city, was an antient Tumulus of immense size, upon 
 our light, precisely similar, in its form and covering, to those 
 conical sepulchres so frequently the subject of allusion in 
 these Travels ; whether called barrows, cairns, mounds, 
 heaps, or by whatever other name, (as for example, Tepe 
 by the Turks, and rktpog and yfif JM by tne Greeks,) they are 
 
 now 
 
 Extraordinary 
 Sepulchre. 
 
 (4) Mh')/)'(ic ([ 'Apyeioi KaOuXou vrro ^rfKoTViriai. Ibid. 
 
 (5) B.C. 466'. See Chandler's Trav. in Greece, p. 230. Oxf. 1776. 
 
 (6) E;- ydp T2] vvv 'Apyokifii ovo^a^Ofxivrf tu p.iv tn irdkaioTipa ov fivt)p\o- 
 vsjjovcriv. Pausan. ut supra, c. 15. p. 144. 
 
!»W^ 
 
 r'iK: 
 
 r»«^? ■ ) l*»-*^r , <* ^jr- ^^m 
 
 688 
 
 PELOPONNESUS. 
 
 chap. xvi. now pretty well understood to have all of them reference 
 to a people of the most remote antiquity (possibly the Celtce)), 
 and to have been raised for sepulchral purposes. Particular 
 stress is now laid upon this circumstance, for reasons thait 
 will presently appear. This Tumulus has evidently been 
 opened since it was first constructed, and thereby its interior 
 has been disclosed; but at what time this happened iis 
 quite uncertain ; probably in a very remote age, from the 
 appearance it now exhibits. The entrance is no longer con- 
 cealed : like that of a Tomb described in the First Part of these 
 Travels, as found upon the Cimmerian Bosporus, the door 
 is in the side of the sepulchre ; and there are steps in front 
 of it. A small aperture in the vertex of the cone has also 
 been rendered visible, by the removal of the soil ; but this, 
 as well as the entrance in the side, was once closed, when 
 the mound was entire and the Tumulus remained inviolate. 
 All the rest of the external part is a covering of earth and 
 turf; such as we see in every country where the Tumuli 
 appear. We ascended along the outside to the top : and 
 had it not been for the circumstances now mentioned, we 
 should have considered it in all respects similar to the 
 Tombs in the Plain of Troy, or in the South of Russia, or 
 in any of the Northern countries of Europe. But this 
 Sepulchre, among modern travellers, has received the appel- 
 lation of The brazen Treasury of A trcus and his sons ; an 
 assumption requiring more of historical document in its 
 support, than has yet been adduced to substantiate the fact. 
 In the first place, it may be asked, what rational pretext can 
 be urged to prove, either that the treasury of Atreus was 
 
 brazen, 
 
 not the Trea- 
 sury of Atreus 
 
 -"•-•*■-' 
 

 M YCENTjE. 
 
 689 
 
 brazen, or that this was the treasury? The whole seems to chap.xvi. 
 rest upon the discovery of a few brass nails within the 
 Sepulchre ; used evidently for the purpose of fastening on 
 something wherewith the interior surface of the cone was 
 formerly lined : but allowing that the whole of the inward 
 sheathing consisted of brass plates, what has this fact to do 
 with the subterraneous cells or dwellings (uroyuta, oixoiof&JifM&ra) 
 where the treasures of Atreus were deposited ? Cells of bronze 
 were consistent with the antient customs of all Argolis : 
 there was a Cell of this description at Argos, used for the 
 incarceration of Danae 1 : a similar repository existed in the 
 Citadel of Mycence, said to have been the hiding-place of 
 Eurystheus, when in fear of Hercules'. But this Sepulchre is 
 ivithout the walls of the Acropolis ; nor can it be credited 
 that any sovereign of Mycence would construct a treasury 
 ivithout his Citadel, fortified as it was by Cyclopean 
 walls. Pausanias, by whom alone this subterraneous 
 treasury of Atreus is mentioned, clearly and indisputably 
 places it within the Citadel; close by the Sepulchre of 
 the same monarch. Having passed the gate of the city, 
 and noticed the Lions over the lintel, he speaks of 
 the Cyclopean wall surrounding the city, and describes 
 the antiquities it inclosed. " Among the Ruins of My- 
 cenae," says he 3 , " there is a spring called Persea, and 
 
 the 
 
 (1) Vid. Pausan. in Corinth, c. 23. p. 1(54. Ed. Kuhnii. 
 
 (2) Apollodorus, lib. ii. c. 4. Goelt. 1782. 
 
 (3) Mt/jo/vui/ Ie iv rote EGEiiriou Kpijvr) re tort ica\ov/J.cvr] Tlepcreia, ical 'Arjo/«t 
 Kul tuv 7raiSojy virdyata olKo^ofi^fiaTa, 'cvda oi Qi)aavpoi a^tai tojv ^pi)/LidT(ov r)rrav. 
 
 VOL. III. 4 T r ^ 0i 
 
:-3^w«?u^ 
 
 
 .-:*.-.»>.'***\ v: IPHB 
 
 iHMBMBMiVMkff 
 
 6*90 
 
 CHAP. XVI. 
 
 U'eroum of 
 Ptrseus. 
 
 PELOPONNESUS. 
 
 the subterraneous Cells of Alreus and of his Sons, where they 
 kept their treasures : and there indeed is the Tomb ofAtreas, 
 and of all those whom, returning with Agamemnon from 
 Troy, iEgisthus slew at supper." Cassandra being of course 
 included among the number, he observes, that this circum- 
 stance had caused a dispute between the inhabitants of 
 Mycence and those of Amy dee concerning the Monument 
 (MvTJfAu) of Cassandra, whether of the two cities really 
 possessed it. Then he adds, that another Monument is also 
 there, that of Agamemnon himself, and of his charioteer Eury- 
 medon: and he closes the chapter, saying', "The Sepulchres 
 of Clytcemnestra and JEgisthus are ivithout the walls; not 
 being worthy of a situation where Agamemnon and those 
 slain with him were laid." From these observations of Pan- 
 sanias we learn two things ; first, that this Sepulchre could 
 not have been the Treasury of Atreus, because it is without 
 the walls of the Acropolis ; secondly, that it cannot be the 
 Monument (Mvypa.) of Agamemnon, according to Pausanias, 
 because this was within the Citadel. If the names assigned 
 by him to the different monuments of Mycence may be con- 
 sidered as duly authorised by history, which perhaps is 
 doubtful, we might consider it as the Heroum of Perseus,. 
 with whose situation it seems accurately to correspond. As 
 
 soon 
 
 TU(j>ov Ci can fj.lv 'Arptuc, cicrl 3t Kctl o<tovq avv ^Ayajxi/xvovi Ejravi}KovTaq t£ IX/oi 
 cuirvioas Karttyovtvoiv Atyicdos. Pausan. Corinth, c. 16. p. 147 . ed. Kuhnii: 
 
 (1) KXvraifxvijtTTpa £c irdtyr/ teal Aiyierdor 6\iyov chroiTepoj tov Ttivovs. Ivrds Si 
 umftiuidqcruv, tvQa 'Ayaui/uvav rt ai/Y<k iKfiTO Kaloi nvv tKtivu 0oyfi/0*Vm. Pausan 
 ut supra. 
 
MYCEN^. 
 
 soon as P l aus anias leaves the Citadel, and begins his journey 
 towards Argos, the first object noticed by him is the Heroum ; 
 describing it as upon his left hand". His account therefore 
 agrees with the position of this magnificent Sepulchre, 
 which is worthy of being at once both the Tomb and the 
 Temple of the consecrated founder of Mycence. Here, if 
 we had no other document to consult than the description 
 of Greece by that author, we should be compelled to 
 terminate our inquiry ; but, fortunately for our subject, we 
 are able to select as a guide upon this occasion a much 
 more antient writer than Pausanias; one indeed who has 
 cast but a glimmering light among the Ruins of Mycence, but 
 every ray of it is precious. It was here that Sophocles laid 
 the scene of his Electra ; and evidence sufficient is afforded, 
 in the present appearance of the place, to prove that his 
 allusions to the city were founded upon an actual view of 
 its antiquities. When it is recollected that these allusions 
 were made nearly six centuries before the time of Pausanias, 
 everv inference fairly deducible from them is entitled to 
 consideration. It is worthy of remark, that Sophocles was 
 thirty-one years of age when Mycence was laid waste by the 
 Argives 3 ; consequently he had ample opportunity of visiting 
 the city prior to that event, and of gathering from its 
 inhabitants the circumstances of its antient history ; but 
 
 Pausanias 
 
 691 
 
 CHAP. xvr. 
 
 Sop/wcles* 
 
 (2) 'Ek Mvkijvuv ci ic "Apyoc ipyofxtvou: iv dptffrepq TleptTtug Trapd rrjv ohov 
 ifTTiy HPHON. Pausaniae Corinthiaca, c. 18. p. 14Q. ed. Kuhnii. 
 
 (3) According to the Arundel Marbles, Sophocles died B.C. 406, at the age of 
 ninety-one, sixty years after the capture and destruction of Mycence by the Argives. 
 

 i>JW5f-#l 
 
 692 
 
 PELOPONNESUS. 
 
 Internal 
 evidence of 
 Sophocles 
 having' visited 
 Jthe spot. 
 
 chap. xvi. Pausanias writing so long afterwards, although upon the 
 spot, could only collect from oral testimony, and tradition, 
 his account of the antiquities : indeed it has been already 
 shewn, that, when speaking of Mycence, he says the inhabi- 
 tants of Argolis remembered nothing more antient than the 
 circumstances attending its downfall 1 . 
 
 In the beginning of the Electra the prospect is described as 
 it was viewed by a spectator upon his arrival at Mycence ; and 
 the beauties of the poet can only be adequately estimated by 
 persons who have been upon the spot. The best commentary 
 upon the drama itself would be an accurate representation 
 of the very scene, as it is exhibited to a spectator who is 
 placed before the Vropylcea of the Acropolis of Mycence. 
 When the companion of Orestes is made to say, upon 
 coming to the gates, that " Argos is present to the view 2 , and 
 that the Hera*um is upon the left hand 3 ." the Scholiast has 
 been so confounded as to make of Argos and Mycence one 
 city ; whereas the speaker is only describing what the eye 
 commands from that situation. Argos is thence in view; 
 making a conspicuous object upon the right hand 4 ; as the 
 
 Herceum, 
 
 (1) Vid. Pausan. Corinth, c. 15. p. 144. ed. Kuhnii. 
 
 (2) To yap, TraXaidv" \pyos, ov Vo'Sac, TOoe. 
 
 Sophocl. Elect, v. 4. torn. I. p. 1 70. Paris, 1781. 
 
 (3) ' — ovl, dpiGTtpac, ft ode, 
 ripat; 6 xXeu-dr vaoc 
 
 Ibid. vv. 11, 12. p. 178. 
 
 (4) See Plates vm. ix. facing pp. 3d, 38, of Gells Itin. of Greece. Lond. 1810. 
 Mr. Gell's drawings afford a valuable commentary upon the iext of Sophocles in the 
 opening of the Electra. 
 
m 
 
 MYCENii. 
 
 693 
 
 CHAP. XVI. 
 
 Hercetun, according to Pausanias, also did upon the left". 
 These were objects naturally striking the attention in the 
 noble prospect from the entrance to the city; and there 
 could not have been an individual within the Theatre at 
 Athens when this Tragedy was presented, who had ever 
 visited Mycence, that would not have been sensible of the 
 taste and accuracy of Sophocles, in making those remarks. 
 We may now see whether this Tumulus is not alluded to by 
 Sophocles, and by Euripides as well, and its situation distinctly 
 pointed out as being on the outside of the gates, according 
 to the usual custom with regard to Grecian sepulchres. 
 But, previous to this, it will be necessary to state, that when 
 Sophocles mentions the regal seat of the Kings of Mycence, 
 he is not speaking of a single building answering to the 
 vulgar notion of a house, but of the whole structure of the 
 fortress, wherein they resided; a Citadel; resembling that 
 of the Kremlin at Moscow, once inhabited by Russian 
 sovereigns ; or like to the Tower of our metropolis, where the 
 English monarchs were wont to dwell. It is in this sense 
 that he uses the word A^a 6 , with reference to all the 
 buildings inclosed by the Acropolis; and the gates of it 
 
 are 
 
 TlgoTvXaiec. 
 
 (5) MvKrjvuv Se iv dpio-epq, nhrt dwc^i Kal Stica ardBiu to 'Wpcuov. Pausaniae 
 Corinthiaca, c. 17. p. 147. e &- Kuhnii. 
 
 (6) 
 
 da/net YltXoirioiov- 
 
 Sophocl. Elect, v. 10. Paris, 1781. 
 
 1v t (?> 7rarpuoy lufxa. Ibid. v. 69. 
 
 Et tov rvpdvvov cJupLUT Aiyiadov Tact; Ibid. v. 663. 
 
 &6/no>v £(76i Tk/vc' Ibid. v. 40. 
 
 Karct(TTdT>)v 16umv. Ibid. v. J2. 
 

 ■Bfl 
 
 
 $&p* aa^asf^flc ^^m 
 
 3EP|E 
 
 694 
 
 PELOPONNESU S. 
 
 chap, xvl are called Propylcea\ as in the instance of the Athenian 
 Citadel. This will be further evident when we proceed 
 to a description of the entrance to the Acropolis; for the 
 gate is not more distinctly alluded to by Pausanias than 
 by Sophocles himself, as will presently appear. Orestes, 
 desirous of bearing his vows to his father's tomb, repairs 
 thither before he enters the Propylcea ; and Electra, who is 
 only permitted to leave the Citadel in the absence of JEgisthus, 
 meets Chrysothemis upon the outside of the gates, carrying 
 the offerings sent by her mother to appease the Manes of 
 Agamemnon' 1 . The position of the Sepulchre seems therefore 
 in all respects to coincide with that of the Tumulus we are 
 now describing ; but the words of Sophocles are also decisive 
 as to its form ; for the Tomb of Agamemnon is not only 
 called rkqtoq, but also KoKmrj 3 : and as, in this Tragedy, the poet 
 adapted his description to a real scene, and to existing 
 objects, there seems reason to believe that, in his time at 
 least, this remarkable Sepulchre was considered by the inha- 
 bitants of Mycence as the Tomb of Agamemnon ; although 
 described by Pausanias rather as the Heroum of Perseus. 
 But the most striking evidence for the situation of the Toml 
 
 of 
 
 Tomb of 
 Agamemnon 
 
 (1) Ibid. v. 1391. In v. I486, sEgisthus commands the gates (miXac) to be 
 thrown open. 
 
 (2) TiV aS <rv Tt}v$e UP02 ©TPHNOS itfSots 
 
 'EXdovaa Ravels, J Kao-tyvTJrr), (jxxriv ; Ibid. vv. 330,331. torn. I. p. 212 
 
 (3) 'EtteI yap tfXdov narpoc 'APXAION rdtyov, 
 'Opu KOAHNH2 f'i; aicpaq vcoppvTovg 
 ITrjyaV yaXaKrot;, /cat n-tptffrEtyt) kijkX^> 
 
 JldvTuv oV c'dTtv dvQiuv diJKrjy rar/io.;. Ibid. V. 399. p. 272. 
 
MYCENAE. 
 
 695 
 
 of Agamemnon occurs in the Electra of Euripides. When 
 Orestes in that tragedy relates to Pylades his nocturnal visit 
 to the sepulchre of his father, it is expressly stated that he 
 repaired thither without entering ivithin the walls 4 . Possibly 
 therefore the known existence of this Tumulus, and of its 
 form and situation, suggested both to Sophocles and to 
 Euripides their allusions to the Tomb of Agamemnon, and to 
 the offerings made by Orestes at his father's sepulchre. 
 The Reader, after a perusal of the facts, will of course adopt 
 his own conjecture. We shall now proceed to a further 
 description of the Monument itself. 
 
 Having descended from the top of it, we repaired to the 
 entrance, upon its eastern side. Some steps, whereof the 
 traces are visible, originally conducted to the door. This 
 entrance, built with all the colossal grandeur of Phoenician 
 and Egyptian architecture, is covered by a mass of breccia, 
 of such prodigious size, that were it not for the testimony 
 of others who have since visited the Tomb, an author, 
 in simply stating its dimensions, might be supposed to 
 exceed the truth. The door itself is not more than 
 ten feet wide ; and it is shaped like the windows and 
 doors of the Egyptian and earliest Grecian buildings, 
 wider at the bottom than at the top ; forming a passage 
 six yards long, covered by two stones. The slab now 
 
 particularly 
 
 CHAP. XVJ. 
 
 Euripides. 
 
 Interior of 
 the Tumulus. 
 
 Enormous 
 lintel. 
 
 (4) Nwktoc Ie TtjtSe 7rpuc rd<f>ov /xoXwV Trarpds, 
 
 k. r. X. 
 
 KAI TEIXEHN MEN ENT02 OT BAINfl nOAA . . . 
 
 Euripidis Electra, v. 90. p. 403. ed. Barnes. Canlab. l6g4. 
 
H 
 
 
 696 
 
 PELOPONNESUS 
 
 chap . xvi. particularly alluded to, is the innermost entablature; lying 
 across the uprights of the portal ; extending many feeit 
 into the walls of the Tomb on either side. This vastt 
 lintel is best seen by a person standing within the 
 Tomb, who is looking back towards the entrance 1 : itt 
 consists of a coarse-grained breccia, finished almost to a) 
 polish : and the same siliceous aggregate may be observed ini 
 the mountains near Mycenae, as at Athens. We carefully/ 
 measured this mass, and found it to equal twenty-seveni 
 feet in length, seventeen feet in width, and four feet seveni 
 inches in thickness. There are other stones also of immense 
 size within the Tomb ; but this is the most considerable ;. 
 and perhaps it may be mentioned as the largest slab of 
 hewn stone in the world 2 . Over this entrance there is a 
 triangular aperture ; the base of the triangle coinciding; 
 with the lintel of the portal, and its vertex terminating 
 pyramidically upwards, so as to complete, with the 
 inclining sides of the door, an acute, or lancet arch. This 
 style of architecture, characterizing all the buildings of 
 Mycence and of Tiryns, is worthy of particular attention; 
 for without dwelling upon any nugatory distinctions as 
 to the manner wherein such arches were constructed ; 
 whether by projecting horizontal courses of stone, or by 
 
 the 
 
 (1) See Plate VI. of Gell's Itin. of Greece, facing p. 34. Lond. 1810. 
 
 (2) Excepting only Pompeys Pillar: but this is of a different form, being 
 not so wide, although much longer. The famous pedestal of the statue of Peter the 
 Great, at Petersburg, often described as an entire mass of granite, consists of several 
 ipieces. 
 
Use of the 
 triangular 
 cavity above 
 the entrance. 
 
 MYCEN.E, Qg^ 
 
 the later invention of the curvature exemplified in all the chap. xvi. 
 older Saracenic buildings 3 , it is evident that the acute or 
 lancet arch is, in fact, the oldest form of arch known in 
 the world ; and that examples of it may be referred to, 
 in buildings erected before the War of Troy. The use 
 of the triangular aperture above the portal is satisfactorily 
 explained by the appearance of the Gate of Mycenae, where 
 a similar opening is filled by a triangular piece of sculpture 
 in alto-relievo. The cause of placing such tablets in such 
 situations may be shewn by reference to existing super- 
 stition : they were severally what a Russian of the present 
 day would call the Obraze or Bogh ; an idolatrous type 
 or symbol of the mythology of the country. Sophocles, 
 in the description he affords of Mycence, alludes to this 
 antient custom, as will afterwards appear. Having passed 
 the entrance, and being arrived within the interior of 
 the tomb, we were much struck by the grandeur of its 
 internal appearance. Here we found that what appears 
 externally to be nothing more than a high conical 
 mound of earth, contains within it a circular chamber 
 of stone, regularly built, and terminating above in a co- 
 nical dome, corresponding with the exterior shape of the 
 tumulus. Its form has been aptly compared to that of 
 an English b«ee-hive\ The interior superficies of the stone 
 
 was 
 
 Inner 
 chamber. 
 
 (3) See " Two Letters on the subject of Gothic Architecture,"' by the Rev. John 
 Haggitt, Camb. 1813; wherein the Eastern origin of the "Pointed Style" is clearly 
 demonstrated. 
 
 (4) The Greek bee-hives have a different form : they are generally cylindrical. 
 VOL. III. 4 U 
 
698 
 
 PELOPONNESUS 
 
 chap. xvi. W as once lined either with metal or with marble plates, 
 fastened on by bronze nails ; many of which now remain as 
 they were originally driven into the sides. These nails have 
 been analyzed, and proved to consist of copper and tin 1 : the 
 metal is therefore, properly speaking, the ^ocXxog of Homer, 
 or bronze ; a compound distinguished from the orichalcum*, 
 or brass, of later ages, which consisted of copper and zinc. 
 We had scarcely entered beneath the dome before we 
 observed, upon the right hand, another portal, leading from 
 the principal chamber of the tomb to an interior apartment 
 of a square form and smaller dimensions. The door- way 
 to this had the same sort of triangular aperture above it 
 that we had noticed over the main entrance to the sepul- 
 chre ; and as it was nearly closed to the top with earth, 
 we stepped into the triangular cavity above the lintel, 
 that we might look down into the area of this inner 
 chamber; but here it was too dark to discern any thing. 
 Being afraid to venture into a place of unknown depth, 
 we collected and kindled a fagot of dry bushes, and, 
 throwing this in a blaze to the bottom, we saw that we 
 
 might 
 
 (1) In the proportion of eighty-eight parts of copper added to twelve of tin, 
 according to their analysis by Mr. Hatchett. The same constituents, nearly in the 
 same proportion, exist in all very antient bronze. The celebrated W. H. Wollaston, 
 M. D. Secretary to the Royal Society, analyzed some bronze arrow-heads of great 
 antiquity found near to Kremenchuck in the South of Russia, and observed the same 
 compound of copper and tin. Possibly the most antient bronze may have been derived 
 from a native alloy consisting of the two metals. in this state of combination. 
 
 (2) See Watson's Chemical Essays, vol. IV. p. 85, et seq. Canib. 1786. where 
 the learned author ingeniously proves that the orichalcum of the Romans was a metallic 
 substance analogous to our compound of copper and zinc ; or brass. 
 

 M Y C E N M. 
 
 699 
 
 might easily leap down and examine the whole cavity, chap^xvi. 
 
 The diameter of the circular chamber is sixteen yards ; but 
 
 the dimensions of the square apartment do not exceed nine 
 
 vards by seven. We did not measure the height of the dome, 
 
 but the elevation of the vertex of the cone, from the floor in 
 
 its present state, is said to be about seventeen yards 3 . 
 
 After leaving this sepulchre, the Cyclopian walls of 
 Mycenae, extending to a short distance in a parallel pro- 
 jection from the entrance to the Citadel, pointed out to us 
 the approach to the gate on this side ; which is built like 
 Stonchenge, with two uprights of stone, and a transverse 
 entablature of the same massive construction. Above this 
 is a triangular repository similar to those already described 
 within the tomb ; but instead of being empty, as in the 
 former instances, it is entirely filled by an enormous alto- 
 relievo, upon a stone block of a triangular form; exhibiting Leonine Gate 
 two Lions, or rather Panthers, standing like the supporters 
 of a modern coat of arms. This is the identical piece of 
 sculpture noticed by Pausanias as being over the gate of the 
 Citadel 4 . But the mention he has made of it does not appear 
 to have been the only instance where this curious specimen of 
 the sculpture of the heroic ages is noticed by antient writers. 
 The allusions to a real scene in the Electra of Sophocles 
 have been recently stated ; and while we now shew that the 
 same drama has also preserved the record of a very curious 
 
 superstition, 
 
 (3) See Gell's Itin. of Greece, p. 30. Lond. 1810. 
 
 (4) AtiVcrat dc S/ncog 'in ical a\\a rov irepifidXov, kccI i) irvXrj' AE0NTE2 $h 
 ItbcffT^Kaartv avry. Pausan. Corinth, c. 16. p. 146. ed. Kuhnii. 
 
wm p&g 
 
 700 
 
 CHAP. XV J. 
 
 Dimensions 
 and descrip- 
 tion of tbe 
 Propylaa. 
 
 PELOPONNESUS. 
 
 superstition, it will likewise appear that this remarkable mo- 
 nument of the antient mythology of Mycence did not escape 
 his notice. Orestes, before entering the Citadel, speaks of 
 worshipping the statues of the Gods of the country which 
 are stationed in the Propylcea\ The antient custom of conse- 
 crating gates, by placing sacred images above them, has existed 
 in every period of history; and it is yet retained in some coun- 
 tries. There is still a holy gate belonging to the Kremlin at 
 Moscow; and the practice here alluded to is daily exemplified 
 in the Russian city, by all who enter or leave the Citadel 
 through that gate. Every thing therefore conspires to render 
 the Ruins of Myccna', and especially of this entrance to the 
 Acropolis, preeminently interesting ; whether we consider 
 their venerable age, or the allusions made to them in such 
 distant periods when they were visited by the Poets and 
 Historians of Greece as the classical antiquities of their 
 country ; or the indisputable examples they afford of the 
 architecture; sculpture, mythology, and customs of the 
 heroic ages. The walls of Mycenae, like those of the 
 Citadels of Argos and Tiryns, were of Cyclopean masonry, 
 and its gates denote the same gigantic style of structure. 
 Any person who has seen the sort of work exhibited by 
 Stonehenge, and by many other Celtic remains of a similar 
 nature, will be at no loss to figure to his imagination the 
 
 uprights 
 
 (l) 7rarpu>a 7r ( oo<rki>V«v0' ec>) 
 
 Otuy, vGOiTTifi npoirvha vuiovaiv rd<:e* 
 
 Sophocl. Elect, v. 1391. torn. I. p. 328. Par. 1/8! 
 
MYCEN.E. 701 
 
 uprights and the lintels of the Gates of Myccnce. We chap. xvi. 
 endeavoured to measure those of the principal entrance, 
 over which the leonine images are placed. The length of 
 the lintel equals fifteen feet two inches ; its breadth, six 
 feet nine inches ; and its thickness, four feet : and it is 
 of one entire mass of stone. The two uprights supporting 
 this enormous slab might afford still ampler dimensions ; 
 but these are almost buried in the soil and rubbish which 
 have accumulated below so as to reach nearly to the lintel. 
 Above this lintel stands the remarkable piece of sculpture 
 alluded to by Sophocles 2 and by Pausanias 3 . It therefore 
 requires a distinct examination, and a very particular descrip- 
 tion. The last of these authors, in the passage before cited 4 , 
 has called the two animals, there represented, Lions ; but 
 they are evidently Panthers, or Tigers ; the more appropriate 
 emblems of that branch of the Heathen Mythology which 
 was peculiarly venerated by the inhabitants of Myccncc.\ 
 This piece of sculpture is, as before stated, an alto-relievo 
 of a triangular form ; the base of the triangle resting upon 
 the lintel of the gate ; and its top pointing upwards, in such 
 a manner, that a perpendicular line bisecting the angle 
 of the vertex would also divide the lintel into two equal 
 parts. Such a line has been used by the antient sculptor 
 for the position of a pillar exactly resembling a sepulchral 
 
 Ste'ld, 
 
 Mythological 
 Symbols . 
 
 (2) Vid. Sophocl. Elect, v. 1391. : 
 
 (3) Vid. Pausan. in Corinth, c. 16. p. 140. ed. Kuhnii. 
 
 (4) Ibid. See the words of Pausanias in a former Note, 
 
 (5) Vid. Sophocl. Elect, passim. 
 
hh ^fm 
 
 •i£& 
 
 702 
 
 CHAP. XVI. 
 
 PELOPONNESUi. 
 
 Ste'le, resting upon a pedestal over the lintel; but this 
 pillar is most singularly inverted, tie major diameter of 
 the shaft being placed uppermost ; so .hat, contrary to every 
 rule we are acquainted with respecting antient pillars, its 
 diameter is less towards the base thai at the capital. As 
 to the order of architecture denotec by this pillar, it is 
 rather Tuscan than Doric ; and it is remarkably ornamented 
 by four balls, placed horizontally abo^e the Abacus. There 
 is also a circular ornament, or Orb in the front of the 
 pedestal, which is a double Torus. The pillar is further 
 supported by two Panthers; one standing erect on either side 
 of it, with his hinder feet upon the liitel, but with his two 
 fore-paws upon the pedestal of the pillar : the heads of 
 these animals seem to have been originally raised, fronting 
 each other, above the capital; where they probably met, 
 and occupied the space included by the vertex of the 
 triangle ; but they have been broker off, and no part of 
 them is now to be seen. The two Panthers, thus placed 
 on the two sides of the pillar, exactly resemble a couple 
 of supporters as used in heraldry fo: an armorial ensign'. 
 The dimensions of this alto-relievo are as follow : the height, 
 nine feet eight inches; the width, in the broadest part 
 towards the base of the triangle, eleven feet nine inches ; 
 the thickness of the slab, one foot ten inches. The stone 
 itself exhibits, upon one side of it, evident marks of 
 a saw; but it is in other respects extremely rude. As 
 
 it 
 
 (l) See the Vignette to this Clapter. 
 

 MYCENAE. 
 
 it has been fortunately preserved in its present situation, 
 it serves to explain the nature of the triangular cavities 
 above the doors in the tomb we have so lately described ; 
 proving that they were each similarly occupied by a sacred 
 tablet of the same pyramidal or triangular form. We have 
 before seen that the whole inclosure of the Acropolis of 
 Athens was one vast shrine, or consecrated peribolus ; and the 
 Citadel of Mycence upon a smaller scale was probably of the 
 same nature. These tablets therefore were the Hiera, at the 
 Gates of the holy places before which the people worshipped. 
 Of the homage so rendered at the entering in of sanctuaries, 
 we find frequent allusion in the sacred scriptures. It is said 
 in Ezekiel 2 , that " the people of the land shall 
 
 WORSHIP AT THE DOOR OF THE GATE BEFORE THE LORD, 
 IN THE SABBATHS, AND IN THE NEW MOONS:" and in 
 
 the sublime song of the sons of Korah 3 , the Gates of the 
 Acropolis of Jerusalem, owing to their sanctity, are 
 described as of more estimation in the sight of God, " than 
 all the dwellings of Jacob." Mycence has preserved for 
 us, in a state of admirable perfection, a model of one of 
 the oldest Citadels of the world ; nor can there be found 
 a more valuable monument for the consideration of the 
 scholar profoundly versed in the history of antient art, than 
 these precious reliques of her Propylcea exhibiting examples 
 of sculpture more antient than the Trojan War, and of 
 the style of fortification used in the heroic ages; and 
 
 also 
 
 703 
 
 CHAP. XVI. 
 
 Consecrated 
 Gates. 
 
 (2) Ezekiel xlvi.3. 
 
 (3) Psalms lxxxvii. %. 
 
 
*»»**" 
 
 ,•■&*&■ 
 
 ^m ^m ^p ^g 
 
 
 01 
 
 PELOPONNESUS. 
 
 i:iiap. xvi. a i so a plan of those Gates, where not only religious cere* 
 monies were performed, but also the courts of judicature 
 were held 1 . For this purpose it was necessary that there 
 should be a paved court, or open space, in the front of 
 the Propylcea, as it was here that kings and magistrates 
 held their sittings upon solemn occasions. It is said of 
 the kings of Israel and Judah, that they sat on their thrones 
 in a void place ', in the entrance of the gates of 
 Samaria, where all the prophets prophesied before 
 them. The Gate of Myccp.ce affords a perfect commentary 
 upon this and similar passages of Scripture : the walls of 
 the Acropolis project in parallel lines before the entrance, 
 forming the sort of area, or oblong court, before the 
 Fropylcea, to which allusion is thus made ; and it is in this 
 open space before the Citadel that Sophocles has laid the 
 scene in the beginning of his Electra. The Markets were 
 always in these places', as it is now the custom before the 
 Gates of Acre, and many other towns in the East: hence 
 it is probable, that, in the mention made by Sophocles of the 
 Lycean Forum*, he is not alluding to one of the public Fora 
 of Argos, but to the Pylagora or Market-place at the Gate 
 
 Of 
 
 Of the 
 Pylagorce 
 
 (1) Vide Chronicon Parium, Epoch 5. where the place of Council for the 
 Amphictyones is called IlvXaia. Suidas says, that not only the place (o roVoc), but the 
 Assembly itself, had this name. (Vid. Suid. in voc. UvXayopat.) See also Job xxix. /. 
 Ps. lxix. 12, &c. 
 
 (2) Or floor, according to the Hebrew. See 1 Kings xxii. 10. 
 
 (3) See 2 Kings i. 18. 
 
 (4) Avtij o', 'OpitJTCtrov Xvkoktovov deov 
 'Ayooe* A>/Vf/o<\ 
 
 Soph. Elect, v.6. pp. 176, 17s. torn. I. Paris, 1781. 
 
MYCEN 2R. 
 
 705 
 
 of Mycencc, whose inhabitants, in common with all the ^hap. xvi. 
 
 Argives, worshipped the. Lycean Apollo. The same author 
 
 makes the worship of Apollo, or the Sun, the peculiar worship of 
 
 , , , • the Sun. 
 
 mythology of the city'; and it is confirmed by the curious 
 symbols of the Propylcea, before which Orestes pays his 
 adoration 6 . Apollo, as a type of the Sun, was the same 
 divinity as Bacchus ; and the two Panthers supporting the 
 pillar represent a species of animal well known to have 
 been sacred to the Indian Bacchus. This divinity, also the Egyptian 
 
 Characteris- 
 
 Osiris of Egypt, was often represented by the simple type ties. 
 of an orb ; hence the introduction of the orbicular symbols : 
 and among the different forms of images set up by antient 
 nations in honour of the Sun, that of a pillar is known to 
 have been one. There was an image of Apollo which had 
 this form at Amyclce 7 ; and the Sun-images mentioned in the 
 sacred Scriptures seem to have been of the same nature. 
 In the book of the Jewish law, immediately preceding the 
 passage where the Israelites are commanded to abstain from 
 the worship of " the sun, or moon, or any of the host of 
 heaven," it is forbidden to them to set up any idolatrous 
 pillar*. All the superstitions and festivities connected 
 with the Dionysia came into Greece with Danaus from 
 Egypt 9 . The cities of Argolis are consequently of all places 
 
 the 
 
 
 
 (5) Soph. Elect, v. 1393, k. r. \. 
 (0) Ibid. v. 1391. 
 
 (7) Vid. Pausan. in Laconic, c. 19. p. 257- ed. Kuhnii. 
 
 (8) Deuteronomy, xvi. 22 j xvii. 3. 
 
 (9) According to Plutarch, tlie Dionysia were the same with the ALuyptian 
 Parnylia. Ti)v he tuv ITAMTAIflN kopTi}v dyovTa;, (wWf/> etptfrai) <j>a\\(Kt}v 
 
 VOL. III. 4 X °^ av > 
 
ws*f 
 
 
 706 
 
 CHAP. XVI. 
 
 Walls of 
 
 Mycena\ 
 
 PELOTONNESUS. 
 
 the most likely to retain vestiges of these antient orgies ; 
 and the orbicular symbols consecrated to the Sun, together 
 with the pyramidal form of the tablets, the style of 
 architecture observable in the walls of Mycence, and the 
 magnificent remains of the sepulchres of her kings, all 
 associate with our recollections of Egypt, and forcibly 
 direct the attention towards that country. That the rites 
 of Apollo at Mycence: had reference to the worship of the 
 Sun is a circumstance beautifully and classically alluded 
 to by Sophocles ; who introduces Elect/a hailing the holy 
 light 1 , and calling the swallow Messenger of the God 2 , 
 because, being the herald of the coming spring, it was then 
 held sacred, as it now is in that country. 
 
 This gate faces the north-west. After we had passed 
 it, we followed the circuit made by the walls around the 
 hill of the Citadel. These consist of huge unhewn masses 
 of stone, so fitted and adapted to each other as to have given 
 rise to an opinion that the power of man was inadequate :o 
 the labour necessary in building them. Hence the epithet }f 
 Cyclopean, bestowed upon them by different authors'. The 
 Peribolus they inclose is oblong, and about three hundred 
 
 ard 
 
 ovvav, k.t.X. Ptut. dc hid. et Osir. cap. 36. Franco/. 15QC). For the JEgypthn 
 origin of these festivals, see also Herodot. lib. ii. The Orgia, arid Trieterica, cane 
 from Thrace, but they were originally from Egypt. See Diod. Sic. vol. I. pp. 239, 2-8. 
 
 (1) 'ft Qdoe dyvov. Sophocl. Elect, v. 86. p. 1S6. torn. I. Paris, 1781. 
 
 (2) A<oc &yye\o(. Ibid. v. 149- 
 
 (3) Kvk\u7tbuiv wokiv (in Euripid. Hercule Furente). KvkKuvuv Ovp.i)at 
 (Iphigen. in. Aul.). KvKKu7reia ovpuvia rci^j (in Sophocl.. Elect.) ]Lvic\iinav It ul 
 ravra epya tJyai \cyov<rii>. Pausan. in Corinth, c. 16. p. 146. ed. Kuhnii. 
 

 MYCEN M. 
 
 707 
 
 Antient 
 Cisteru. 
 
 and thirty yards in length. Upon the northern side are chap. xvi. 
 the remains of another portal, quite as entire as that 
 we have already described, and built in the same manner; 
 excepting that a plain triangular mass of stone rests upon 
 the lintel of the gateway, instead of a sculptured block as 
 in the former instance. We saw within the walls of the 
 Citadel an antient cistern, which had been hollowed out of 
 the breccia rock, and lined with stucco. The Romans had no 
 settlement vXMycence; but such is the state of preservation in 
 which the cement yet exists upon the sides of this reservoir, 
 that it is difficult to explain the cause of its perfection 
 after so many centuries. Similar excavations may be 
 observed in the Acropolis oi A rgos ; also upon the Mount 
 Olives near to Jerusalem; and among the remains of the 
 antient cities of Taurica Cliersonesus, particularly in the 
 rocks above the Portus Symbolorum. The porous nature 
 of breccia rocks may serve to explain the use and perhaps 
 the absolute necessity of the stucco here; and it may 
 also illustrate the well-known fable concerning those 
 porous vessels which the Dana'ides were doomed to fill ; 
 probably alluding to the cisterns of A rgos which the 
 daughters of Danaus were compelled to supply with water, 
 according to the usual employment of women in the East. 
 The other antiquities of Mycence must remain for the 
 more attentive examination of future travellers ; who, as 
 it is hoped, will visit the Ruins provided with the necessary 
 implements for making researches, where, with the slightest 
 precaution, they will be little liable to interruption on the 
 part of the Turks ; the place being as destitute of inha- 
 bitants, 
 
i*w. T 
 
 SS**Hw 
 
 708 
 
 PELOPONNESUS. 
 
 chap , xvi. bitants, and almost as little known or regarded, as it was 
 in the time of Strabo ; when it was believed that not a 
 vestige of Mycencc could be found. The inducement 
 towards such inquiries is of no common nature: whatever 
 may be discovered will relate to the history of a city 
 which ceased to be inhabited long before the Macedonian 
 conquest, and to the manners of a people coeval with 
 JEschylus and with Euripides. 
 

 CHAP. XVII. 
 
 PELOPONNESUS. 
 
 Journey to Nemea — Defile of Tretus — Cave of the Nemeaean Lion 
 — Fountain of Archemorus — Temple of the Nemeaean Jupiter — 
 Albanians — Monument of Lycurgus — Nemecean River — Apesas — 
 Sicyonian Plain — Sicyon — Theatre — Prospect from the Coilon 
 — Stadium — Temple of Bacchus — Other Antiquities — Medals — 
 Paved Way — Fertility of the land — Corinth — Fountain of the 
 Nymph Pirene — Sisypheum — Temple of Octavia — Visit to the 
 , Governor — Odeum — Climate of Corinth. 
 
 After leaving Mycence, we again descended towards the chap. xvii. 
 Plain of Argos\ lying westward ; and coming to a village journey to • 
 
 . ' . Nemea. 
 
 called Carvati, made a hearty meal upon eggs and coffee. 
 
 We 
 
 (] ) " We descended, from Mycence into the rich plain of Argos ; not now deserving 
 the epithet of irnrdfioToi;, for the horses in this neighbourhood are beyond measure 
 miserable." Colonel Squire s MS. Correspondence. 
 
fw^sflK*? 
 
 '-.-'*>,-'::* ZS^M 
 
 ■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■ 
 
 ?10 
 
 CHAP. XVII. 
 
 Defile of 
 Tratus. 
 
 PELOTONNESU S. 
 
 We carried with us an introductory letter to a person named 
 Andriano, who had found, as we were informed, another 
 Tomb at Mycence, similar to the one wc have described ; but 
 we could not find him, and the people of the village knew 
 nothing of the discovery. We therefore continued our 
 journey northward for Nemca. As this route lies out of the 
 antient road from Corinth to Argos, (which did not pass 
 through Nemea,) the objects noticed by Pausanias, in the 
 beginning of that part of his second book which he calls 
 Argolica, do not occur. The city of Cleonce was one of this 
 number ' ; whose remains have been observed in the road to 
 Corinth, and at ten miles distance from that city 2 . The 
 road from Mycence to Nemea does, however, coincide with 
 the road to Corinth for a short distance after leaving Carvati ; 
 but upon reaching the mountains, which separate the two 
 plains of Argos and Nemea, it bears off by a defde across a 
 mountain towards the west. Some allusion to this defile 
 occurs in Pausanias, and to its deviation from the main 
 road ; for he says there were two ways of going from 
 Cleonce to Argos; one of them by Tretus, a narrow and 
 a circuitous way, but the best carriage road of the two 3 . 
 As we entered this defile, we travelled by the side of a 
 
 rivulet 
 
 (1) 'Ek Kopipdov ci' nr'Apyoc ipyofilvui K\f6)vat tto\ic tcrrlv ov fxtydXt]. Pausan 
 in Corinth, c. 15. p. 143. ed. Kuhnii. 
 
 (2) Chandler found them upon a hill in the direct road from Argos to Corinth. Set 
 Chandler's Travels in Greece, ch. 5J . p. 234. Oxf. 1/76. 
 
 (3) 'Ek KAfwvwy ci ttcrtv f'c "\pyoq ocoi Silo' »/ p.cu litupciuiy iv^tSt'Od rat tarn 
 iTrtroj.ior^ i) ob eVi rov Ka\ovf.ilpov Tpnrov, (TTtv>} fiiv (cat uvrrj TTtpitxdvTuv 6p&v : 
 oyj'jixatT'. Si icriv c/i«c cTriT^LiGTipa. Pausan. ibid. p. 144. 
 
JOURNEY TO NEMEA. 
 
 711 
 
 rivulet of very clear water, through woods which were once 
 the haunts of the famous Nemecean Lion. The only animals 
 we saw were some very fine tortoises. We passed one or 
 two huts inhabited by wild-looking fellows, who told us 
 they were the guards of the pass. They brought water for 
 us to drink, and we gave them a few pardhs. Hereabout we 
 noticed a curious comment upon the account given by Pau- 
 sanias of this defile ; in the marks of wheels upon the rocky 
 parts of the road ; the surface of the stone being furrowed 
 into ruts ; which must have been w r orn by the wheels of 
 antient carriages 4 ; no vehicles of this kind being used by the 
 present inhabitants of the Peloponnesus. The mountain over 
 which the defile leads is still called Treto by the natives ; it 
 extends from east to west, along the southern side of the Plain 
 of Nemea. And this mountain, perforated by a defile, is all 
 that Pausanias means by " Tretus" but some persons have 
 believed that there was a town called Tretum lying to the 
 north of Argos 5 . We made diligent inquiry after the Cave 
 of the Nemecean Lion, mentioned by the same author; being 
 fully assured that in a country famous for the caverns con- 
 tained in its limestone mountains, an allusion of this kind 
 
 would 
 
 CHAP. XVII. 
 
 Cave of the 
 
 Nemecean 
 
 Lion, 
 
 (4) Mr. Gell measured the distance between the furrows. According to his observa- 
 tion, the wheels of antient carriages " were placed at about the same distance from each 
 other as in those of modern times." See Win. of Greece, p. 2/. Lond. 1801. 
 
 (5) f - Tretum, petite ville de l'Argolide, presqvtau nord d' Argos. Dans les raon- 
 tagnes pres de cette ville, on montroit une caverne ou se retiroit, disoit-on, le lion 
 feroce dont les poetes out attribue la mort a Hercule," &c. Encyclopedie Methodique. 
 Giographie Ancienne, par Men telle. Tome troisieme, p. 3/3. a Paris, 179'2> 
 
IQQV8EB KBEBBP9B VEwfl ■■■ 
 
 
 CHAP. XVII. 
 
 PELOPONNESUS, 
 
 would not have been made by so accurate an author without 
 its actual reference to some cave having borne this appellation. 
 The guides from Argos knew nothing of it ; but the people 
 of Nemea afterwards brought us back again to visit a hollow 
 rock, hardly deserving the name of a cave, although no 
 unlikely place for the den of a lion. As other travellers may 
 be curious to visit it, we shall describe its situation in such 
 a manner that they may be easily guided to the spot. It is 
 situated upon the top of the mountain, just before the 
 descent begins towards Nemea, but upon the side of it which 
 regards the Gulph of Argos, and commands a view of all 
 the country in that direction. If it be visited from Nemea, 
 its bearing by the compass, from the three columns of the 
 Temple of Jupiter, is due south-east ; those columns being 
 on the north-west side of Tretus, and at the base of the 
 mountain ; and this cave at the top of it, and on the con- 
 trary side, but facing Argos and Nauplia. It consists simply 
 of an overhanging rock in the midst of thickets, on the left 
 side of the road from Nemea to Argos; forming a shed, 
 where the shepherds sometimes pen their folds. As the 
 situation is commanding, we made the following observations 
 by a small pocket compass. 
 
 A lofty pointed summit, called the Peak ofGiria, or Gcrio, antiently 
 Mons Gerania, the most distant object s. w. and by w. 
 
 Citadel of Argos s. s. w. 
 
 Citadel of Nauplia s. 
 
 Citadel of Corinth e. n.e.— Below the eye, 
 
 in this direction, the site of Cleonce may be discerned in the 
 
 few remaining vestiges of that city. 
 
 This 
 

 CAVE OF THE NEMEiEAN LION. ^13 
 
 This is the only cave of any description that we could chap.xvii. 
 hear of in the neighbourhood : the people of the country 
 know of no other ; and we may consider it as identified 
 with that mentioned by Pausanias, from the circumstance 
 of its position upon a mountain still bearing the name of 
 the place assigned by him for its situation 1 . Its distance 
 also from the ruins of the Temple, being about a mile and 
 and a half, agrees very well with that which he has stated, 
 of fifteen stadia 2 . 
 
 After regaining the road, the descent from this place soon 
 conducts the traveller into the plain of Nemea. We passed Fountain of 
 the fountain of Archemorus, once called Langia, and now 
 Licorice. Near to it we saw the Tomb of Opheltes 3 , at present 
 nothing more than a heap of stones. Pausanias calls the 
 fountain the Adrastcan spring 4 : a superstition connected 
 with it gave rise to all the sanctity and celebrity of the 
 surrounding Grove: victors in the Nemecean Games received 
 no other reward than a chaplet made of the wild parsley b that 
 grew upon its margin ; and the herb itself, from the cir- 
 cumstance of its locality, was fabled to have sprung from 
 
 the 
 
 (1) Vid. Pausan. in Corinth, c. 15. p. 144. ed. Kuhnii. 
 
 (2) 'Ey rovrots roZc optai to O7ri}\atov in CciKvvrai rov Af'ovroc, ical ij Nf/ira ro 
 ■^topiov dv'tytt, aral'iovs irlvre irov cat ZIkcl. iv Zt civvy 'St/j.tiov tov Atck vaoe hn 
 Qtac afyoc. Ibid. 
 
 (3) 'Fapravda tan fxiv '0(j>i\rov rdcjioc. Ibid. 
 
 (4) Tqv 5e 7Tt]yt}i/ 'Acpdaraav ovo/xd^ovaiy, tirs in d'Wt} nvt alria, t'trt Kai 
 dvtvpdvToc avrrjv , A.ZpdffTOv. Ibid. 
 
 (5) Victors at the Nemecean Games, according to Plutarch (in Timoleon.) were 
 crowned with parsley said to have sprung out of the blood of Archemorus. " This is 
 the very herb," says Plutarch, "wherewith we adorn the sepulchres of the dead." The 
 Nemecean were funereal games ; the presidents were clothed in Hack garments. 
 
 VOL. III. 
 
 4 T 
 
WHfjWFi-™* 
 
 ■■■■■■■■■I 
 
 71 ^ PELOPONNESUS. 
 
 chap. xvii. the blood of Archemorus, in consequence of whose death 
 the spring is said to have received its name'. We then 
 
 Temple of the Came to THE RuiNS OF THE TEMPLE OF THE NEMSi^AM 
 Nemeaan , 
 
 Jupiter. Jupiter, which becomes a very conspicuous object as. the 
 
 plain opens. Three beautiful columns of the Doric 3rder, 
 without bases, two supporting an entablature, and a third 
 at a small distance sustaining its capital only, are a.l that 
 remain of this once magnificent edifice ; but they stand 
 in the midst of huge blocks of marble, lying in all positions ; 
 the fragments of other columns, and the sumptuous materials 
 of the building, detached from its walls and foundations. 
 The mountain Tretus makes a grand figure, as seen from 
 this temple towards the south-east. A poor village, con- 
 sisting of three or four huts, somewhat farther in the 
 plain to the north of this mountain, and north-east of 
 the temple, now occupies the situation of the antient 
 village of Nemea. It bears the name of Colonna ; probably 
 bestowed upon it in consequence of these Ruins. One of 
 its inhabitants, coming from those huts, joined cur company 
 at the Temple. lie told us that there were formerly 
 ninety columns all standing at this place ; and the other 
 inhabitants of his little village persisted in the same story. 
 The columns now standing, as well as the broken shafts 
 
 of 
 
 (l) " Una tamen tacitas, sed, jussu numinis, undas 
 
 Haec quoque secreta nutrit Langia sub umbra, 
 Nondum illi raptus dederat lacrymabile nomen 
 Archemorus, ncc fama Deae." — — 
 
 Statius Thelaid. lib. iv. 
 
 91 
 
/ t/JE**Jmu 
 
 ftemaix&s of Lite TEMPLE of JUPITER atHemea 
 
 Publufud Julv sifiSa.ly T. tit,/,-// ,<■ W.Uarits.SOiind.Irtidm . 
 
>*-;*;•»'* !•--;;•*•,•,> .>.->.*.<»: 
 
 mmiMMHM n mi !■ i tfi * i 
 
HP 
 
 RUINS OP KEMEA. 
 
 of many other lying near to them, are grooved, and they 
 measure four feet ten inches in diameter. The stones of 
 the foundation of the Temple are of very great size. We 
 observed the wild pear-tree, mentioned by Chandler 2 so 
 many vears before, still growing among the stones on one 
 side of the Ruin. He pitched his tent within the cell of 
 the Temple, " upon its clear and level area." Not having 
 such comfortable means of accommodation for the night, 
 we accompanied the peasant who had joined us, to the 
 village, where the Tchohodar had already arrived and 
 engaged one of the huts for our reception. The poor Albanians. 1 
 Albanians, to whom this little habitation belonged, had 
 swept the earth floor and kindled a fire upon it; the smoke 
 escaping through a hole in the roof : one end of the hut 
 being occupied by their cattle and poultry, and the other by 
 the family and their guests. Having killed and boiled a 
 large fowl, we made broth for all the party ; sitting in 
 a circle round the fire. Afterwards, imitating the example 
 offered to us by our host and his family, we placed our 
 feet towards the embers, and stretched ourselves upon 
 the floor of the cottage until the morning. We found 
 during the night, that the women, instead of sleeping, 
 were entirely engaged in tending the fire ; bringing fresh 
 fuel when it was wanted, and spreading out the embers 
 so as to warm the feet of all present, who were disposed 
 around the hearth like diverging radii from this common 
 focus. As soon as the men had taken a short nap, they 
 
 sate 
 
 (2) See Chandler's Travels in Greece, p. 232. Or/. 1776. 
 
■ 
 
 JJP' ^>Ur^ftpji< SE^T* 
 
 
 716 
 
 CHAP. XVII. 
 
 
 Monument of 
 Lycurgus. 
 
 PELOPONNESUS. 
 
 sate up, and began talking. The conversation turned upon 
 the oppressions of their Turkish masters. The owner of 
 the hut told us that each male is compelled to pay a tax of 
 seventy piastres ; that, for himself, having three sons, they 
 demanded of him an annual payment of two hundred and 
 eighty piastres, besides other contributions ; that he toiled 
 incessantly with his children to gain enough to satisfy 
 their demands, but found himself unable, after all his 
 endeavours. Having said this, the poor man shed tears; 
 asking us if the time would ever arrive when Greece might 
 be delivered from the Mahometan tyranny: and adding, " If 
 we had but a leader, we should flock together by thousands, 
 and soon put an end to Turkish dominion." Towards morning, 
 the braying of their donkies set them all in motion. Having 
 asked the cause of the stir, they told us that the day was 
 going to break ; and they informed us that the braying of 
 an ass was considered by them a better indication of the 
 approaching dawn than the crowing of a cock. In the 
 present instance they were certainly not deceived, for we 
 had no sooner boiled our coffee than day-light appeared. 
 
 We then returned to the Ruins. Near to the remains 
 of the Temple, and upon the south side of it, we saw 
 a small chapel, containing some Doric fragments, standing 
 upon an antient barrow ; perhaps the Monument of 
 Lycurgus father of Opheltes; for this is mentioned by 
 Pausanias as a mound of earth 1 , Scarcely a vestige of the 
 
 grove 
 
 (l) "Ear* Ot \tofta yffQ Avtcovpyou jxyrj^a tov '0©Aroi/ 7rurpd<j. 
 Corinth, c. 15. p. 144. ed. Kuhnii. 
 
 Pausan. in 
 
m^^^m^m^^mmms^^m^^^^^^^mWHm^ 
 
 
 RUINS OF NEMEA. 
 
 717 
 
 grove remains where the triennial games were celebrated ; chap.xvii. 
 unless a solitary tree, here and there, may be considered as 
 reliques 2 . The plain all around the Temple exhibits an open 
 surface of agricultural soil. We could discover no trace 
 either of a Stadium or of a Theatre 5 ; both of which are found 
 in every other part of Greece where solemn games were 
 celebrated. When every other monument by which Nemea 
 was adorned shall have disappeared, this tomb, with that of 
 Opheltes, and the fountain of Archemorus upon the slope 
 of the neighbouring hill, will be the only indications 
 of the sacred grove. The three remaining columns of the 
 Temple of Jupiter are not likely to continue long in their pre- 
 sent situation: some diplomatic virtuoso, or pillaging Pasha, 
 will bear away these marble reliques; and then, notwith- 
 standing the boast of Statius*, the very site of the consecrated 
 games, whether instituted to commemorate Hypsipyles loss, 
 
 or 
 
 (2) Pausanias says that the temple was surrounded by a grove of cypresses. 
 fLvTraftiTcruv rs a\aoe early Trepl tov vaov. (Fid. Pausan. in Cor. c. 15. p. 144.) 
 Not a cypress-tree is now to be seen anywhere near the Ruins. 
 
 (3) It does not necessarily follow, that if this be the Temple of Nemecean Jove, the 
 Games were celebrated close to the spot where the Temple stands. Mr. Gell found 
 the remains of a Theatre in his journey from Corinth to Nemea ; which although he 
 does not seem to be aware of, the circumstance may be that of the Nemecean Games. He 
 is just entering the Nemecean Plain or valley j and he says, " Here joins the road leading 
 from Mycence to Nemea, which turning to the right, falls into the valley of Nemea, 
 between the site of a Theatre on the right, and a fount on the left, now dry." See 
 Cell's Itin. of Greece, p. 22. Lond. 1801. 
 
 W " manet in»ens gloria Nympharu, 
 
 Cum tristcui Hypsipyletn ducibus sudatus Achaeis 
 Liultis, et atra sacrum recolit Trieteris Ophelten." 
 
 Statins Thelaid. Kb. iv. 
 
H -ftavi^ 
 
 : *Ssfl«H5W tJii/fthf**^ <#tp**? 
 
 
 yjg PELOPONNESUS, 
 
 chap. xvii. or the first labour of Hercules 1 , may become a theme of 
 dispute. Perhaps, indeed, the Temple is not of the high 
 antiquity that has been assigned to it. The columns are 
 said not to bear the due proportion which is usually 
 observed in the early examples of Doric architecture 2 . This 
 edifice may have been erected by Adrian, when that 
 emperor restored to the Nemccean and to the Isthmian Games 
 their original splendor. 
 
 Early this morning, Wednesday, November the eleventh, 
 we began our journey towards Sicyon, now called Basilico; 
 following the course of the Nemecean rivulet. This stream is 
 alluded to by Statius, with reference to the fountain before 
 mentioned 3 . It flows in a deep ravine after leaving the 
 plain, and then passes between the mountains which separate 
 the Nemccean Plain from that of Sicyon. On either side of the 
 rivulet the rocks appeared to consist of a whitish chalky 
 limestone. As we rode along the left bank of the rivulet, we 
 saw, upon our right, a table mountain, believed by* Chandler 
 to be the Apesas of Pausamas, where Perseus was said to 
 have sacrificed to Jupiter. Its flat top, he says, is visible 
 in the Gulph of Corinth. We passed some ruined Chapels 
 
 upon 
 
 Neniesean 
 River. 
 
 rfpesas. 
 
 (1) According to ^Elian, lib. iv. c. 5. Hercules transferred to Cleonee the honous 
 bestowed upon him by the Nemeans, for subduing the lion. 
 
 (2) Mr. Gell makes the diameters of the columns of the peristyle equal five fed 
 two inches and a half, and observes that the columns are higher in proportion to ther 
 diameters than is usual in the Doric Order. See Itin. of Greece, p. 23. Lond. 1601. 
 
 W.J " tamen avia servat 
 
 Et nemus, et fluvium." Stat. Theh. lib. iv. 
 
 (4) Trav. in Greece, p. 233. Oxf. 1776. 
 
RUINS OF NEMEA. 
 
 upon our left. Almost every building of this kind in Greece 
 has been erected upon the ruins of some Pagan sanctuary ; 
 for which reason they are always worthy of a particular 
 examination. After riding about two hours along the 
 Nemecean rivulet, we suddenly quitted its course upon our 
 light, and beheld Sicyon, occupying an elevated situation 
 upon some whitish cliffs. Here we noticed a Tomb and 
 Ruins upon our right hand, and immediately descended into 
 the great fertile plain which extends along the Sinus Corin- 
 thiacus, between Sicyon and Corinth. Soon after entering 
 into this plain, we observed, upon our right hand, a Chapel, 
 containing Ionic capitals and other marble fragments. Hence 
 we continued along the level surface of the finest piece of 
 land in all Greece, cultivated like a garden ; and after 
 crossing a river, observed in several places upon our left 
 the ruins of antient buildings. We then came to the site of 
 the city of Sicyon. 
 
 So little is known concerning this antient seat of Grecian 
 power, that it is not possible to ascertain in what period 
 it dwindled from its high pre-eminence, to become, what 
 it now is, one of the most wretched villages of the Pelopon- 
 nesus. The remains of its former magnificence are still 
 considerable; and in some instances they exist in such 
 a state of preservation, that it is evident the buildings 
 of the city either survived the earthquakes said to have 
 overwhelmed them, or they must have been constructed 
 in some later period. In this number is the Theatre; by 
 much the finest and the most perfect structure of the kind in 
 all Greece. The different parts of the city, whereof traces 
 
 are 
 
 Sicyoni^n 
 Plain. 
 
 Sicyon. 
 
 Theatre, 
 
iO^SX^^^.i-'-r 
 
 SFs5{i.{>#$w xf/KTQ&wj** ii-^fff^vrf^ 
 
 7°20 
 
 PELOPONNESQS. 
 
 chap . xvii. are y e t visible, serving as land-narks in pursuing the 
 observations of Pausanias, may be comprehended under the 
 following heads: 
 
 t. A Fountain. 
 
 2. The Acropolis. 
 
 3. Foundations of Temples and other buildings ; some of 
 these constructed in a style as nassrve as the Cyclopdan. 
 
 4. Very grand Walls, although biilt of brick tiles. 
 
 5. Remains of a Palace, with msny chambers. 
 
 6. The Theatre. 
 
 7. The Stadium. 
 
 8. Remains of a Temple near to the Theatre. 
 Q. Antient Caves. 
 
 10. Antient Paved Way. 
 
 11. Ruins in the plain below Sicton, towards the sea. 
 
 Of some of these, as it may be expected, little can be said, 
 excepting the mere enumeration of the names they bear in 
 this list ; but of others, a more particular description may be 
 given. The whole city occupied an elevated situation; but 
 as it did not possess one of those precipitous rocks 
 for its Citadel which sustained the bulwarks of Athens, 
 Argos, Corinth, and many other Grecian states, little 
 of its Acropolis can now be discerned, saving only the 
 vestiges of its walls. It is situat:d above a place now 
 called Palcco-Castro; and it occupies :hat part of the Ruins of 
 Sicyon which lies upon the south-eas: side, towards Corinth. 
 Before we enter upon any further detail of the Ruins here, 
 it may be proper, for the advantage of other travellers 
 
 as 
 
S I C Y O N. 
 
 721 
 
 Prospect from 
 the Coilon. 
 
 as well as for perspicuity/ of description, to state the bearings chap, xvii 
 of some principal objects. 
 
 From the village of Basilico, the Theatre bears . . w. n. w. 
 The Acro-Corinthus, or Citadel of Corinth . . ; s.e. and by s.' 
 The mountain Parnassus, as seen in Phocis . . . n. 
 
 Thebes in Bceotia e. n. e. 
 
 Whether this last object be visible or not is very doubtful ; 
 but it was a place called Thiva by the inhabitants, lying in 
 the direction of Thebes. 
 
 Hence it will be evident that the Ruins of Sicyon occupy a 
 prominent part of the Sicyonian territory, extending towards 
 the n. N. e. into the Corinthian Gulph; and that they lie 
 along a ridge above the Plain of Sicyon, in a direction from 
 w. n. w. to e. s. e. having Parnassus due north. The Acro- 
 polis, upon the s. e. side of the city, may be recognised, 
 both in the nature of its walls, which are very antient, 
 and in its more elevated situation. Hereabouts we observed 
 the fragments of architectural ornaments, and some broken 
 columns of the Ionic order. Near to the Acropolis may also be 
 seen the Caves before mentioned, as in the vicinity of Athens: 
 in all probability they were rather the sepulchres 1 than the 
 
 habitations 
 
 (1) It was highly satisfactory to the author to find his observations by the compass 
 accidentally confirmed by such respectable authority as that of Sir George Wheler, who, 
 observing the bearing of Basilico from the Acro-Corinthus (See Journ. into Greece, 
 p. 442. Lond. 1682) exactly in the opposite direction, states it to be North-west and 
 by North. 
 
 (2) The Sepulchres of the Sicyonians in the second century consisted of a heap of 
 earth, above which stood a stele, resting upon a stone base, and surmounted by a species 
 of ornament resembling that part of the roof of a temple which was called "the Eagle." 
 (Vid. Paus. Cor. c.y.p. 126. ed. Kuhn.) The history of the Eagle upon Grecian 
 
 temples 
 
 VOL. in. 
 
 4 Z 
 

 !S3i^3 aj¥ftj« 
 
 t+r3±K*im* 
 
 7<2 C 2 
 
 PELOPONNESUS. 
 
 chap. xvn. habitations of the earliest inhabitants, although this cannot 
 
 now be ascertained : they are all lined with stucco : and 
 
 Pausanias mentions certain secret recesses 1 belonging to the 
 
 Sicyonians, in which particular images were kept for their 
 
 annual processions to the Temple of Bacchus beyond the 
 
 Theatre. There is still an antient paved road that conducted 
 
 to the Citadel by a narrow entrance between rocks, so 
 
 contrived as to make all who approached the gate pass 
 
 through a defile that might be easily guarded. Within the 
 
 Acropolis are the vestiges of buildings, perhaps the Hiera 
 
 of Fortuna Acr,ea, and of the Dioscuri 2 ; and below it 
 
 is a fountain, seeming to correspond with that of Stazusa, 
 
 mentioned by Pausanias as near to the gate 3 . The remains 
 
 of a temple, built in a very massive style of structure, 
 
 occurs on the western side of the village of Basilico; 
 
 and in passing the fosse of the Citadel to go towards the 
 
 Theatre, which is beyond the Acropolis*, a subterraneous 
 
 passage may be observed, exactly above which the Temple 
 
 seems 
 
 temples is briefly this. The souls of kings, over whose sepulchres temples were originally 
 erected, were believed {pytioQai) to be carried to heaven upon eagles' wings. At the 
 funeral it was customary to let an eagle fly over the grave. In allusion to this, Lycophron 
 calls Achilles dtrov, an eagle, because he carried about Hector's body. An eagle, there- 
 fore, with expanded wings, was formerly represented upon the tympanum of the pedi- 
 ment in all temples; and ultimately, this part of the edifice itself received the appellator. 
 of AET02, the Eagle. 
 
 (1) "AXXa ci dyaXpara iv 'AlIOPPHTHI ^Lttcvuvioti tori. Pausan. Cor. 7. c. 7. 
 p. 127. ed. Kuhnii. 
 
 (2) 'Ev hi rjji vvv a.Kpo7r6\it TVvj/c itpov iariv aKpalce:, p. era hi avro AiocrKoupuiy 
 Pausan. ibid. 
 
 (3) Tlpot; hi Tt) TTijXt], 7rny}') iart, k.t.X. Ibid. 
 
 (4) Pausanias says, viro Tr\v dttpdwoXiv. Ibid. 
 
P" 
 
 SICYONi 
 
 723 
 
 seems to have stood ; as if by means of this secret duct v CHAP - xv ". 
 
 persons belonging to the sanctuary might have had ingress 
 
 and egress to and from the Temple, without passing the 
 
 gate of the Citadel. This was perhaps the identical place 
 
 called Cosmeterium by Pausanias", whence the mystic images 
 
 were annually brought forth in the solemn procession to 
 
 the Temple of Bacchus, situated near the Theatre and the 
 
 Stadium. Some of the remains enumerated in the list may 
 
 be those of Venetian edifices ; as, for example, the ruin of 
 
 the Palace: the palaces of antient Sicyon being highly 
 
 splendid, and all built of marble. Indeed an expression 
 
 used by Pausanias seems to imply that the Acropolis, as it 
 
 existed in his time 6 , was not the most antient Citadel. The 
 
 sea is at the distance of about a league from Basilico; but 
 
 the commanding eminence upon which the Ruins are 
 
 situated affords a magnificent view of the Corinthidn Gulph 
 
 and of all the opposite coast of Phocis. There is, however, 
 
 no part of the antient city where this prospect is more 
 
 striking than from the Theatre. This structure is almost 
 
 in its entire state ; and although the notes we made upon 
 
 the spot do not enable us to afford a description of its 
 
 form and dimensions equally copious with that already 
 
 given of the famous Theatre of Polycletus in Epidauria, yet 
 
 this of Sicyon may be considered as surpassing every other 
 
 in 
 
 (5) Tavra /mif KaQ' 'Ikchttov Jfroc vvktI h to Aiovilarov bk rov kuXov/xcvov 
 K02MHTHPI0T Kofxi^ovai. Paus. Cor. c.7. p. 127. ed. Kuhnii. 
 (Q) 'Ev ct rtj vvv 'AKpowokEi, k. t. X. Ibid. 
 
ft-^R* 
 
 ll~J,J*TIKJ.rF*:*gT?-4 
 
 724 
 
 PELOPONNESUS. 
 
 chap , xvi f. J n Greece, in the harmony of its proportions, the costliness 
 of the workmanship, the grandeur of the. Coilon, and the 
 stupendous nature of the prospect presented to all those 
 who were seated upon its benches. If it were cleared of 
 the rubbish about it, and laid open to view, it would afford 
 an astonishing idea of the magnificence of a city whose 
 luxuries were so great that its inhabitants ranked among the 
 most voluptuous and effeminate people of all Greece. The 
 stone-work is entirely of that massive kind which denotes 
 a very high degree of antiquity. Part of the Scene remains, 
 together with the whole of the seats, although some of the 
 latter now lie concealed by the soil. But the most remarkable 
 parts of the structure are two vaulted passages as entrances ; 
 there being one on either side, at the extremities of the 
 Coilon, close to the Scene, and about half way up ; leading 
 into what we should call the side-boxes of a modern theatre. 
 Immediately in front, the eye roams over all the Gulph of 
 Corinth, commanding islands, promontories, and distant 
 summits towering above the clouds. To a person seated 
 in the middle of the Cavca, a lofty mountain with bold 
 sweeping sides occupies the front of the view beyond the 
 Gulph, being placed exactly in the centre, the sea inter- 
 vening between its base and the Sicyonian coast ; and this 
 mountain marks the part of Boeotia now pointed out by the 
 natives of Basilico as (Thiva) Thebes ; but to a person who 
 is placed upon the seats which are upon the right hand of 
 those in front, Parnassus, here called Lafrura from its 
 antient name Lycorea, most nobly displays itself: this 
 mountain is only thus visible in very clear weather. 
 
 During 
 

 
 SIC YON. 
 
 Durino* the short time we remained in the Theatre, 
 although a conspicuous object when we first entered, 
 it was afterwards covered by vast clouds, which rolled 
 majestically over its summit, and finally concealed it from 
 our view. 
 
 725 
 
 CHAP. XVII. 
 
 The Stadium is on the right hand of a person facing the 
 Theatre ; and it is undoubtedly the oldest work remaining 
 of all that belonged to the antient city. The walls exactly 
 resemble those of Myccnce and Tiryns: we may therefore 
 class it among the examples of Cyclopean masonry. It is in 
 other respects the most remarkable structure of the kind 
 existing ; combining at once a natural and an artificial 
 character. The persons by whom it was formed, finding that 
 the mountain whereon the Coilon of the Theatre has been 
 constructed would not allow a sufficient space for another 
 oblong Cuvca of the length requisite to complete a Stadium, 
 built up an artificial rampart, reaching out into the plain 
 from the mountain towards the sea: so that this front- work 
 resembles half a Stadium thrust into the semi- circular 
 cavity of a Theatre ; the entrances to the area, included 
 between both, being formed with great taste and effect 
 at the two sides or extremities of the semicircle. The 
 antient masonry appears in the front-work so placed. The 
 length of the whole area equals two hundred and sixty- 
 seven paces; the width of the advanced bastion thirty-six 
 paces; and its height twenty-two feet six inches. Exactly 
 in the front of this projecting rampart, belonging to the 
 outer extremity of the Stadium, but at a short distance 
 below it, in the plain, are also the remains of a Temple ; 
 completing the plan of this part of the antient city ; which 
 
 was 
 
 Stadium. 
 
 Temple of 
 Bacchus. 
 
t&Zfifci.h 
 
 r&S3G^ai- flK©)Wt ^H *^P ?»«** 
 
 ?26 
 
 CHAP. XVII. 
 
 Other 
 Antiquities 
 
 PELOPONNESUS. 
 
 was here terminated on its western side by three magnificemt 
 structures, a Theatre, a Stadium, and a Temple; as it wais 
 bounded towards its eastern extremity by its Acropolis. We 
 can be at no loss for the name of this Temple, althouglh 
 nothing but the ground-plot of it now remain : it is dis- 
 tinctly stated by Pausanias to have been the Temple of 
 Bacchus, which occurred beyond the Theatre to a person 
 coming from the Citadel 1 ; and to this Temple were made 
 those annual processions before alluded to, which took 
 place at night and by the light of torches, when the 
 Sicyomans brought hither the mystic images, called Baccheu.s 
 and Lysius, chanting their antient hymns 8 . All around the 
 Theatre and Stadium, besides the traces of this Temple, other 
 ruins may be noticed, but less distinct as to their form. In 
 the plain towards the sea are many more, perhaps extending 
 to the Sicyonian haven, which we did not visit. The Theatre 
 itself was of a much more extensive nature than other edifices 
 of the same kind commonly are: its sides and front projected 
 far into the plain. We were not successful in our search for 
 inscriptions ; but the peasants sold to us many medals and 
 small terra-cotta vessels, which they said they had found 
 in caves near the spot. Among the latter we collected 
 lachrymatories of more antient form and materials than any 
 thing we had ever before observed of the same kind. These 
 vessels, as it is well known, were often made of glass, 
 
 and 
 
 (1) Merd cl ro dtctTpov, Atovvaov vao<: iari. Paus. Cor. c. 7- p. 1^7- e ^- Kuhnii. 
 
 (2) Ko/ul£ov(ri $£ fxtrd laicoiy re tjfifjiivav teal vfivuv Ivivupluv. tjytirai fitv c$v 
 i)y BAKXEION ovofxd^ovaiv, k. t. \. rWcu cc 6 tcaXov/bicpos AT2I02. Ibid. 
 
S I C Y N. 
 
 727 
 
 and more antiently of earthen-ware-, being diminutive as 
 to their size, and of delicate workmanship : but the lachry- 
 matory phials, in which the Sicyonians treasured up their 
 tears, deserve rather the name of bottles: they are nine 
 inches long, two inches in diameter, and contain as much 
 fluid as would fill a phial of three ounces ; consisting of 
 the coarsest materials, a heavy blue clay or marl. But 
 we also collected little circular cups like small salt-cellars, 
 two inches in diameter, and one inch in height, (which are 
 said to be found in great abundance at Sicy on,) of a much 
 more elegant manufacture, although perhaps nearly as 
 antient. When we first saw them, we believed that they 
 had been made of pale unbaked clay, dried only in the sun ; 
 but upon a nearer examination we perceived that they 
 had once been covered with a red varnish, and that this 
 covering had actually decomposed, and almost disappeared. 
 Hence some inference may be deduced as to their immense 
 antiquity ; instances having never occurred before of the 
 spontaneous decomposition of the varnish upon antient 
 terra-cotta vessels preserving their entire forms. It is 
 known to every person who has attended to the subject, 
 that the most powerful acids produce no effect whatsoever 
 upon their surfaces, and that some of the oldest terra-cottas 
 yet discovered in Greece are remarkable for the high degree 
 of lustre exhibited by the black varnish with which they are 
 invested. The case may perhaps be different with the red 
 varnish ; and possibly the examples of pottery found in 
 Grecian sepulchres, and believed to have been made of 
 unbaked clay, with surfaces which moulder beneath the 
 
 fingers 
 
 CHAP. XVII. 
 
ATT3SI ^M 
 
 
 728 
 
 PELOPONNESUS. 
 
 chap. xvh. fingers and have a pale earthy aspect, may owe this 
 appearance entirely to the degree of decomposition they 
 Medals. have sustained. The medals which we collected here 
 consisted principally of the bronze coinage of Sicyon ; 
 having on one side a Dove represented flying, and upon the 
 other the letters 2, 21, or 2IK. Some were also brought to 
 us of the Roman Emperors : and, among these, one with 
 the head of Severus ; and upon the obverse side, a boy upon 
 a dolphin, with a tree. The whole illustration of this subject 
 is in Pausanias: it relates to a fable from which the Isthmian 
 Games were said to have derived their origin. The tree is 
 that Pine which was shewn near to the town of Cromion, as a 
 memorial of one of the exploits of Theseus. Near to it stood 
 an altar of Melicerta, who was brought thither by a dolphin, 
 and afterwards buried upon the spot by Sisyphus ; in honour 
 of whom the Isthmian Games were said to have been insti- 
 tuted '. It is always easy to procure bronze medals in Greece ; 
 but the Albanian peasants do not readily part with those 
 which are of silver; because they decorate the head-dresses 
 of their women with these pieces. They may however be 
 tempted by newly coined pardhs, which answer for the same 
 purpose ; and we had accordingly orovided ourselves with 
 a small cargo, fresh from the mint In exchange for this 
 base but shining coin, we obtained a few silver medals of 
 Sicyon, and one of uncommon rarity of Pylus in Elis. 
 A single and imperfect impression cf this last coin exists in 
 
 the 
 
 (1) Vid. Pausan. Cor. c. 1. p. 111. ed. Kuhnii. 
 
SIC YON TO CORINTH. /29 
 
 ■ 
 the Collection of Paris. That which we obtained exhibited in chap . xvh . 
 
 front a bull standing upon a dolphin, with the letters /1Y; 
 
 and for the obverse side an indented square. Any silver 
 
 medal in their possession might be bought of these poor 
 
 peasants for a few new pardhs, not worth a penny ; but if 
 
 paid in old coin, they would not part with one for the same 
 
 number of piastres. Ibrahim, it is true, had a summary 
 
 way of settling these matters ; and by demanding every 
 
 thing a coup de baton, shortened all treaties, whether 
 
 for horses, food, lodging, or antiquities, by the speedy 
 
 dispersion of all whom he approached. For this reason, 
 
 whenever we wished to deal with the natives, we took 
 
 especial care to send him out of the way. After our 
 
 return to the village of Basilico, we dismissed him with the 
 
 baggage ; and the people rinding themselves to be secure 
 
 from Turkish chastisement, came round us with their wives 
 
 and children, bringing all the antiquities they could collect. 
 
 We then set out for Corinth ; and as we descended from 
 the Acropolis, we plainly perceived the situation of the gate 
 to have been in the fosse, above where the fountain now is. 
 Here we noticed the remains of the old paved way; and saw Paved Way. 
 upon our right, close to the road, a place where the rock 
 had been evidently hewn into a square pedestal, as for the 
 base of some colossal statue, or public monument. Thence 
 we continued our route across the wide and beautiful plain 
 which extends between Sicyon and Corinth, bounded bv 
 the sea towards the north; a journey of three hours and a 
 half, over the finest corn land in Greece, and through olive- 
 plantations producing the sweetest oil in the world. This 
 
 vol. in. 5 a district 
 
^^H ■ m§ ■ m 
 
 730 
 
 PELOPONNESUS. 
 
 Fertility of 
 the land. 
 
 CHAP^xvn. district has been justly extolled by antient 1 and by modern 
 authors 2 . The well-known answer of an antient Oracle to a 
 person who inquired the way to become wealthy, will prove 
 how famous the soil has ever been for its fertility : he was 
 told to " get possession of all the land between Corinth and 
 Sicyon." Indeed, a knowledge of the country is all that is 
 necessary to explain the early importance of the cities for 
 which it was renowned. Both Sicyon and Corinth owed 
 their origin to this natural garden ; and such is even now 
 its value under all the disadvantageous circumstances of 
 Turkish government and neglected cultivation, that the 
 failure of its annual produce would cause a famine to be felt 
 over all the surrounding districts 3 . 
 
 Within a mile of Corinth we passed a Fountain in a 
 cavern upon our right; formed by a dropping rock consisting 
 of a soft sand-stone. Farther up the hill, and upon the same 
 side of the road, as we entered the straggling town now 
 occupying the site of the antient city, we observed some 
 Ruins, and a quantity of broken pottery scattered upon the 
 soil. The old city occupied an elevated level above the 
 rich plain we had now passed ; and upon the edge of this 
 natural terrace, where it begins to fall towards the corn 
 land, we found the fluted shaft of a Doric pillar of limestone, 
 
 equal 
 
 Corinth. 
 
 (J) See the authors cited by Barthelemy ; Athen. lib. v. cap. 19. p. 21 9. Liv. 
 lib. xxvii. cap. 31. Schol. Aristoph. in Av. v. 969. 
 
 (2) Wheler's Journey into Greece, Book VI. p. 443. Lond. 1682. 
 
 (3) " And its plenty failing, brings most certainly a famine upon their neighbour 
 round about them." Wheler s Journey into Greece, p. 443. Lond. 1682. 
 
CORINTH. 
 
 731 
 
 equal in its dimensions to any of the columns of the Temple CHAP - xvu. 
 of Jupiter Olympius at Athens : it was six feet and one inch in 
 diameter. Close to this we observed the ground-plot of a 
 building, once strongly fortified ; that is to say, a square 
 platform fronting the plain and the sea : on this side of it is a 
 precipice, and its three other sides were surrounded by a fosse. 
 The area measures sixty-six paces by fifty-three ; its major 
 diameter being parallel to the sea shore. Upon the opposite 
 side, within the fosse, are also the remains of other founda- 
 tions; possibly of a bridge or causeway, leading into the area 
 on that side. The remarkable fountain before mentioned 
 does not here guide us, amidst the mazy description of 
 Pausanias, to the original name of this building. Corinth was 
 full of fountains ; there was no city in Greece better supplied 
 with water 4 ; many of those fountains were supplied by means 
 of aqueducts 5 : but if we find a passage in Pausanias that 
 seems to allude to the remarkable circumstance of a dropping 
 spring, within a cavern, we may perhaps succeed in 
 establishing a point of observation for ascertaining other 
 objects in its neighbourhood. An allusion of this nature 
 occurs where he mentions the water of the Nymph Pirene, 
 who poured forth such abundance of tears for the loss of 
 
 her 
 
 Fountain oi 
 the Nymph 
 Pirene, 
 
 (4) K.pijvui he TroXkal fxcv dvd rrjv iroXiv rtwoltjvTai vueav, are cityddvov 
 peovros aot3ti> vfUctToe. Paus. Cor. c. 3. p. 118. ed Kuhn. "Eart cc Kal ruv 
 fptuTuf evrropia Kara rrjv rd\iy. Strabon. Geog. lib. viii. p. 550. ed. Oxon. 
 
 (5) The Emperor Adrian brought water to Corinth from Stymphalus, written 
 Stemphylus ir. the edition of Pausanias above cited. Vid. Paus. Cor. ut supra. 
 

 ■ ■ ■ 
 
 732 
 
 CHAP. XVII. 
 
 PELOPONNESUS. 
 
 her son Cenchrias, when slain by Diana, that she wais 
 metamorphosed into a fountain'. Even the circumstance 
 of the cellular cavity whence the water flows appears als^o 
 to have been noticed by Pausanias ; in whose time it wais 
 beautified with white marble 2 . This weeping spring may 
 therefore be considered the same with that denominated 
 by him the fountain of the Nymph Pirene ; as it occurs 
 in the road leading from Corinth to Lechceum on the Sicyoniam 
 side of the Isthmus, precisely where that fountain wais 
 situated. This point being established, we might expect tio 
 make the fountain a land-mark for ascertaining the relative 
 position of other objects. But Strabo has given the samie 
 name to another spring at the base of the Acrocorinthus ; 
 and Pausanias allows that this was not the only fountain 
 called Pirene 3 . The spacious area belonging to the. fortress 
 where the Doric pillar lies, relates to a structure so lon<£ 
 rased, that it may have been overlooked by Pausanias, as it 
 
 was 
 
 (1) Mtra to avro ttrocck tart ttjq JJetpfjvv^ Is to vcup. 'tart £t civrij \iyovony, 
 6>c >j Tletpijvn ycvoiTO vtto ecucpvuv it, dvQpMirov irr\yrj, tov irat?a odupopcvtj K.iy~ 
 \piuv vTroWpTLfxtcos uicovarjt: diroQavovTa. Pans. Cor. c. 3. p. 117- ed. Kuhn. 
 
 (2) Ibid. The water of this spring was said to be metv t)lv. Upon these words 
 Kuhnius adds the following note: " Unde ex hoc font e aquam petclant in usus domes ticos 
 puelloe Corinthiorum, uti patet exemplo La'idos ad hue puellce vdpotyopovcnjr, aVe rtjc 
 nft ( o>/V?/cj lib. xiii. Jthencci. Idem hie lib. ii. defontis hujus aqua : orafytj/o-ac to «Vo 
 rns iv KoptvOoy \\ttpi]vr]<; KU.\ovp:ivr)c, bhup, KovtyoTtpov rdyruy tvpov ruv Kara 
 r»jV 'EAXdcJa, quum ad libram exegissem, inquit, aquam Pyrcnes /otitis Corinthii, 
 levissimam earn omnium in tola Grcecid deprehendi." Vid. Annot. Kuhnii in Paus. 
 lib.ii. c.3. p. 117. Lips.lQgQ. 
 
 (3) Vid. Paus. in Corinth, c. 5. p. 122. ed. Kuhn. Strabon. Geog. lib. viii. 
 p. 550. ed. OxoTi. 
 
C O R I N T II. 
 
 was by modern travellers until our arrival ? and if this be the 
 case, it may be a relique of the Sisypheum ; a mole, or bul- 
 wark, not mentioned by that writer, but noticed by Diodorus 
 Siculus and by Strabo. As Chandler has placed the Sisypheum 
 elsewhere, we shall presently have occasion to say something 
 further concerning this structure. The Corinthians had also 
 a Hieron to all the Gods\ where there was a statue of 
 Neptune with a Dolphin spouting forth water ; but the water 
 of the Dolphin was conveyed by means of an aqueduct, and 
 was not a natural spring'. 
 
 In going from the area of this building towards the 
 magnificent remains of a temple now standing above the 
 Bazar whence perhaps the Doric pillar already mentioned 
 may have been removed, we found the ruins of antient 
 buildings ; particularly of one partly hewn in the rock 
 opposite to the said Temple. The outside of this exhibits 
 the marks of cramps for sustaining slabs of marble once 
 used in covering the walls; a manner of building perhaps 
 
 not 
 
 (4) Qfote iraoiv'lcpov. Pausan. in Corinth, c. 2. p. 116- ed. Kuhn. 
 
 (5) The curious marble discovered by the Earl of Aberdeen at Corinth,, and since 
 brought to England, which was found covering the mouth of an antient well, may 
 have been the identical Hieron here alluded to by Pausanias. The word 'lepdvj it is 
 true, is translated Templum by Am asceus ; but it does not appear probable that this 
 could be the author's meaning; because he is actually speaking of a Temple (Tj/'yijc 
 veto*,), by which he says the Hieron stood. riapd tie avro OtoUj vdaiv ctrriv iipdv. 
 It is therefore at least probable that all he intends, in this passage, by the word Hieron 
 is the representation of the Heathen Deities upon the marble bas-relief that covered 
 the mouth of a well by which the Temple of Fortune stood. If all the Hiera of 
 Pausanias were to be translated Temples, there would have been more temples in 
 Greece than in the whole world besides. 
 
i^H 
 
 VfcG.^tHS 
 
 ^U.-^-. 
 
 ■ ji^.Aav.^ 
 
 ^-e'V. w»v^;i.i 
 
 /34 PELOPONNESUS. 
 
 chap. xvii. no t of earlier date than the time of the Romans. Pliny 
 mentions the time when this kind of ornament began to be 
 introduced at Rome 1 . The Greeks sometimes decorated 
 marble edifices after the same manner, but with plates of 
 metal' 1 . In this building were several chambers all hewn in 
 the rock, and one of them has still an oblong window 
 remaining. We then visited the Temple. It has been 
 described by all travellers for near a century and a half. 
 In JVkeler's time it had eleven Doric pillars standing 3 ; the 
 same number remained when Chandler visited the place 4 . 
 We found only seven remaining upright : but the fluted 
 shaft before mentioned may originally have belonged to 
 this building, the stone being alike in both ; that is to say, 
 common limestone, not marble ; and the dimensions are 
 perhaps exactly the same in both instances, if each column 
 could be measured at its base. When Wilder was here, the 
 pillars were more exposed towards their bases ; and being 
 there measured, he found them to equal eighteen feet in 
 circumference, allowing a diameter of six feet for the 
 lower part of the shaft of each pillar. Only Jive columns 
 of the seven now support an entablature. We measured 
 
 the 
 
 (1) " Prim urn Romae parietes crusta marmoris operuisse totius domus suae in Coelio 
 monte Cornelius Nepos tradidit Mamurram Formiis natum, equitem Romamim, prse- 
 fectum fabrorum C. Caesaris in Gallia." Plin. Hist. Nat. lib. xxxvi. c. 6. torn. III. 
 p. 477. L. Bat. 1635. 
 
 (2) See the description given of the Gymnasium at Alexandria Troas, in the former 
 Section. 
 
 (3) See Wheler's Journ. into Greece, p. 440. Load. 1682. 
 
 (4) Trav. in Greece, p. 239. Oxf. 1776. 
 

 CORINTH. 
 
 735 
 
 the circumference of these, (as we conceived, about three chap.xvh. 
 feet from their bases,) and found it to equal seventeen feet 
 two inches. Each column consists of one entire piece 
 of stone ; but their height, instead of being equal to six 
 diameters, the true proportion of the Doric shaft according 
 to Pliny, docs not amount to four. The destruction that 
 has taken place, of four columns out of the eleven seen 
 by Wheler and Chandler, had been accomplished by the 
 Governor, who used them in building a house; first blasting 
 them into fragments with gunpowder. Chandler suspected 
 this temple to have been the Sisyphcum mentioned by Strabo b t suypMum. 
 but without assigning any reason for this conjecture. Nothing 
 can be easier than an arbitrary disposal of names among 
 the scanty reliques of a city once so richly adorned; nor can 
 any thing be more difficult than to prove that such names 
 have been properly bestowed. The Sisyphe'um was a building 
 of such uncertain form, that Sir oho, eighteen centuries ago, 
 could not positively pronounce whether it had been a temple 
 or a palace "; whereas the first sight of this, even in its 
 present dilapidated state, would have been sufficient to put 
 that matter beyond dispute. The Sisyphe'um was situated 
 below the Fountain Pirene, and built (Asyaf "ki'&cS) with ivhite 
 stone; an expression generally used to signify marble, both 
 by Strabo and by Pausanias. The present building does 
 
 "hot 
 
 (5) Vjto of Tij Titipijuri to 1tav(f>£tdv ivriv, ifpov tivoc, y fiaaiXttov, Xtvtcy Xtvu 
 vwroir)nivov, (sic leg. Casaub.) Siaaufav ipeiiria ovk oXiya. Strabon. Geog. lib. viii. 
 p. 550. ed. Oxon. 
 
 (6) Ibid. 
 
WW 
 
 
 736' 
 
 CHAP. XVII. 
 
 Temple of 
 Octavia. 
 
 PELOPONNESUS. 1 
 
 not answer to this description. The Sisypheum is not once 
 mentioned by Paasanias ; which could not have been the case, 
 if its remains were of this magnitude. The only antient 
 author by whom the Sisypheum has been noticed, excepting 
 by Straho, is Diodorus Siculus ; who describes it as a place 
 strongly fortified, near to the Citadel 1 . As to the real his- 
 tory of this very antient temple, the style and the materials 
 of its architecture have induced some to refer its origin to 
 the earliest periods of the Dorian power in Peloponnesus. 
 We confess we are not of this opinion : the disproportion 
 of the length of the pillars to their diameters, is with us 
 an argument, rather against, than for, their high antiquity. 
 If we may credit the testimony afforded by so late a writer 
 as Martin Ci'usius*, founded probably upon tradition, 
 this building was the Temple of Juno ; and his statement 
 ao-rees with Pousanias y who mentions a Hieron of Buncean 
 Juno 5 , below the Acrocorinthus : but as it amounts almost 
 to a certainty, that so considerable a structure must have 
 been mentioned by the latter writer with a more distinct 
 clue as to its situation, there seems to be no edifice 
 noticed by him with which it more accurately corresponds, 
 than with the Temple of Octavia, sister of Augustus ; unto 
 whom the Corinthians were indebted for the restoration 
 of their city: this temple occupied the same situation with 
 
 respect 
 
 (1) Diodor. Sicul. lib. xx. p. 480- cd. IVesseling. 
 
 (2) Mart. Crus. Turcogrsecia. 
 
 (3) Tavrrj teal to rij? lWvaiac tffTtv"Hpas iipov. Paus. Cor. c. 4. p. 121. ed 
 Kuhn. 
 
^■199 it -_!;*■—. max v.-kj.-^, <rc-s2tii,,.y» sitf%»tl 9B^HBfl ■■■■ 
 
 ■•>-. ..»-.v»'-V^-» v.-.M. .«-.»..> 
 
 
 
yigmmsSgSGmm 
 
 
 CORIN T H. 
 
 7^7 
 
 respect to the Agora 4 that the present Ruin does with regard chap . xvii. 
 to the Bazar ; and it is well known, that however the 
 prosperity of cities may rise or fall, the position of a public 
 mart for buying and selling usually remains the same. 
 
 While we were occupied in examining this building, and 
 in collecting the different fragments of antient pottery scat- 
 tered among the Ruins, the Governor sent to desire that we 
 would visit him. We found him sitting in a mean little open visit to the 
 apartment, attended by one of those French agents, who, under 
 the name of apothecaries, carried on, at this time, a very 
 regular system of espionnage throughout the Turkish empire; 
 and especially in Greece. This gentleman offered to be our 
 interpreter: we told him that we had with us a person who 
 always acted in that capacity ; but as the Governor seemed 
 to prefer the Frenchman, we acquiesced ; and, after the 
 usual ceremony of pipes and coffee, a parley began. The 
 first questions put to us related to our travels; accompanied 
 by many shrugs and shrewd sarcasms as to the vagrant life 
 led by Djoicrs in general. All this was interpreted to us by 
 the Frenchman, interlarded with every scurrilous epithet he 
 could pour forth against the old Turk, but bowing his head 
 all the while with great seeming gravity and decorum, as if 
 he were bestowing upon him the most honourable titles. 
 The Governor was evidently out of temper ; and presently 
 the cause was manifest. " Your Tchohodar has been here," 
 
 said 
 
 (4) 'Yirep ct djp 'AF0PAN %txnv 'OKTABIA2 NAOZ, k.t.X. Pans. Cor. c. 3. 
 p. 116. ed. Kuhnii. 
 
 VOL. III. 
 
 5 B 
 

 
 
 5*^7^0 ■Jf^K 9*$?*? 
 
 
 
 
 
 738 PELOPONNESUS. 
 
 chap. xvu. saftd he, " and tells me you intend to take up your abode in 
 this place, that you may repose and take your caif 1 ; but you 
 have brought me no present." We said that we neither 
 gave nor received mere gifts of ceremony. " Then who are 
 ye?" added he somewhat sharply. "English {Effendies) 
 Gentlemen," was the answer. " Effendies truly ! and is it 
 like an Effendi to be seen picking up pieces of broken pots, 
 and groping among heaps of rubbish ?" There was so much 
 apparent reason in this remark, and it was so utterly impos- 
 sible to explain to a Mahometan the real nature or object of 
 such researches, that we agreed with the Frenchman it was 
 best to let him have his opinion, and, passing quietly for 
 paupers beneath his notice, make our obeisance and retire. 
 This was the first instance, since we quitted the Turkish 
 frigate, in which our firman, and the letter from the Capudan 
 Pasha, had failed in procuring for us a favourable reception; 
 and we began to fear that among the Turks, especially in 
 the distant provinces, our credentials would have little 
 weight, unaccompanied by bribes. Ibrahim, however, main- 
 tained that it was all owing to his not being present upon 
 the occasion; and desired us in future to make no visits 
 unaccompanied by him. A few ceremonial expressions, and 
 a little etiquette, were alone wanting, he said ; and perhaps 
 he was right. 
 
 There is a considerable Ruin consisting entirely of brick- 
 work, which may have been a part of the Gymnasium. 
 
 We 
 
 (l) ^$ {Caify or Kqfy) is aliment or nourishment in Arab. Diet. ; but in Turkev 
 the word Caif is often used to denote entertainment, or comfort. 
 
CORINTH. 
 
 739 
 
 We did not succeed in finding the Theatre, nor any chap. xvii. 
 
 remains of a Stadium ; but close to the Bazar we saw part of oatum. 
 
 a very large structure, built entirely of tiles, or thin bricks. 
 
 The people of the place remembered this more perfect; and 
 
 they described it as a building full of seats, ranged one 
 
 above the other. Possibly therefore it may have been the 
 
 Oddum*; unless indeed it were an Amphitheatre, or a 
 
 Tfieatre raised entirely from the ground, like the Colisdum 
 
 at Rome; without being adapted to any natural slope. 
 
 When we reached the house where we were to pass the 
 
 night, the author was again attacked with a violent paroxysm 
 
 of fever, and remained until the morning stretched upon the 
 
 floor in great agony. The air of Corinth is so bad, that its 
 
 inhabitants abandon the place during the summer months. 
 
 They are subject to the malaria fever, and pretend to remove 
 
 it by all those superstitious practices which are common in 
 
 every country where medicine is little known. We procured 
 
 here some terra-cottas of very indifferent workmanship, and 
 
 much inferior to those found near Argos ; also a few medals 
 
 and gems. There were no Inscriptions ; nor was there to 
 
 be seen a single fragment of antient sculpture. Such is 
 
 now the condition of this celebrated seat of antient art — 
 
 this renowned city, once so vain of its high reputation, 
 
 and of the rank it held among the Pagan States ! 
 
 We resolved to devote as much of our time as possible 
 to the examination of the Isthmus ; for although but a 
 
 small 
 
 Climate of 
 Corinth. 
 
 (2) Vid. Pausan. Corinth, c.3. p. 118. ed. Kuhnii. 
 
 
im* 
 
 .GwiVi^V^WTr^W^iSft l&tgm. 4?#.V6H JfLy-i ^^m r^TM?* 
 
 40 
 
 PELQPONNESUS. 
 
 chap. xvn. small district, it had been hitherto so imperfectly surveyed 
 by modern travellers, that the site of the Isthmian Games 
 had never been accurately ascertained ; and Chandler, and 
 his successors, had affirmed that " neither the Theatre nor 
 the Stadium were visible. 1 " The mischief arising from 
 such remarks is this ; that persons who come afterwards, 
 being thereby persuaded that all due diligence has been 
 used in a research which has proved fruitless, willingly 
 avoid the trouble of making any further inquiry. We shall 
 presently show, not only that remains of the Stadium, of the 
 Temple, and of the Theatre, do yet exist, but that very 
 considerable traces of the Isthmian Toivn itself may be 
 discerned ; plainly denoting the spot once consecrated to 
 the Isthmian solemnities, which continued to be celebrated 
 long after the destruction of the city of Corinth 2 . 
 
 (1) See Chandler's Trav. in Greece, p. 243. Oxf. 1//6, &c. 
 
 (2) Vid. Pausan. in Corinthiac. c.2. p. 114. ed. Kuhn'ri. 
 

 
 // /•: /. /. . / s 
 
 P i: i. o r a \ it ji s i s 
 
 Mttllru .-,- I 
 
 CHAP. XVIII. 
 
 PELOPONNESUS AND ATTICA. 
 Vidt to the Isthmus— Remains of the Antient Vallum — Canal of 'Nero 
 — Lechaeum — Cinerary receptacles in the rocks — Remarkable 
 
 Tumulus — Acrocorinthus — Ascent to the Citadel — Hiera 
 
 Prospect from the Summit — Hexamillia — Discovery of the Town 
 
 of Isthmus— Port Schoenus — Temple of Neptune — Theatre 
 
 Stadium — Sepulchre o/Palaemon — Trees from which Victors in the 
 
 Isthmia were crowned— Extraordinary Mart for Grecian Medals 
 
 Dress of the Levant Consuls— Pandean Born — Cenchrese Bath 
 
 of Helen— Convangee — Cromyon— Manners of the Peasants— 
 
 Scironian Defile— Boundary betiveen Peloponnesus and Hellas 
 
 KAKH 2KAAA— Entrance of Hellas— Causes of the celebrity of 
 Megara — The modern town— Inscriptions — Journey to Eleusis 
 — Kerata — Eleusinian Plain — Acropolis of Eleusis — Marble Torso 
 —The Flowery Well— Aqueduct— Temple of Ceres— Statue of the 
 -Goddess — Superstition of the Inhabitants — Inscription — Sudden 
 departure for Athens— Via Sacra— Vast extent of Antient Thrace — 
 
 The 
 
 tS& 
 
^n^r^^mf^h^m^Ti^^ intwz. 7fmr\f%y*"-j 
 
 742 
 
 LHAP.XVIII. 
 
 Visit to the 
 Isthmus. 
 
 Remains of 
 the Antient 
 Vallum. 
 
 Canal of 
 Nero- 
 
 PELOPONNESUS. 
 
 The Rheti — Elcusinian Cephissus — Salt Lake — Defile of Daphne 
 — The Rock called Poecile — Temple of Venus — Monastery of 
 Daphne — Hieron of Apollo — View of Athens at sunset — Athenian 
 Cephissus — Site of the Academy — Arrival at Athens — Negotiation 
 with ^eWaiwode — Return to Eleusis — Method devised for removing 
 the Statue of Ceres — Difficulties encountered — Success of the under- 
 taking — -Further account of Eleusis — Long Walls — Of the Rharian 
 and Thriasian Plains — Temples of Triptolemus, of Neptune, and 
 of Diana Propylaea — Temple of Ceres — Port of Eleusis — Antient 
 Theatre — Acropolis — Return to Athens. 
 
 Upon the thirteenth of November we set out for the 
 Isthmus. Before leaving the town, there is a fountain upon 
 the left hand ; and opposite to it there are the ruins of some 
 antient building. Soon after, we observed another fountain 
 upon our right : and here may be observed the old paved 
 road leading from the natural platform whereon the city 
 stood, into the plain of the Isthmus, which lies below this 
 level. We descended towards it. The vestiges of antient 
 buildings are visible the whole way down. We presently 
 arrived at the neck of the Isthmus, and came to the remains 
 of the antient wall erected by the Peloponnesians, from the 
 Gulph of Corinth to the Sinus Saroniczis. The ground here 
 is formed in such a manner as to present a natural rampart ; 
 but there are distinct traces of the old Vallum ; and we saw 
 the ruins of a fortress, or of some other building, at its 
 termination upon the Corinthian side of the Isthmus. The 
 remains of another wall may be also traced beyond this, 
 towards the north-east. Here we found what interested us 
 much more, the unfinished Canal begun by Nero, exactly 
 as the workmen had left it, in a wide and deep channel, 
 
 extending 
 
 
ISTHMUS OF CORINTH. 
 
 743 
 
 extending N. w. and s. e. and reaching from the sea to the 
 N. E. of Lechceum, about half a mile across the Isthmus. It 
 terminates on the s. e. side, where the solid rock opposed an 
 insurmountable obstacle to the work ; and here the under- 
 taking was abandoned. Close to the spot where the Canal 
 ceases, are two immense tumuli ' ; and these, in the general 
 sacking of Corinthian sepulchres mentioned by Strabo 2 , 
 seem to have escaped violation ; for their entrances, although 
 visible, appear never to have been opened since they were 
 closed, and are almost buried. Beneath these tombs there 
 are sepulchres in the rocks ; and one of the tumuli seems to 
 be stationed over a sepulchral cave of this kind. The 
 remarkable accuracy of Pausanias is perhaps in no instance 
 more strikingly manifested than in the description he has 
 given of the Canal ; corresponding, even to the letter, 
 with its present appearance 3 . We followed the Canal to the 
 shore. Here we observed that the rocks had been 
 hewn into steps, for landing goods from the port towards 
 the Canal and other works. The remains of the Temple of 
 Neptune are very considerable : it has not yet ceased to 
 be a place of worship. We found here one of the idol 
 pictures of the Greek Church, and some antient vases, 
 although in a broken state, serving as vessels and offerings 
 upon the present altar. There is a bath to which they still 
 
 bring 
 
 CHAP.XVIII. 
 
 Lechceum . 
 
 (1) See the Vignette to this Chapter. 
 
 (2) Vid. Strabon. Geog. lib. viii. pp. 553,554. ed. Oxon. ISO/. 
 
 (3) Kat oQev pw cioputrfftiv tjp^avro, cijXdv inriv, fc Zi to 7rsrpuZe<j ov irpoe^v- 
 p>)oav dpyflv. Pansan. in Corinthiac. c. ] . p. 112. ed. Kuhnii. See also the Vignette, 
 to this Chapter. 
 

 £w4* ^m^xM ysp&sg&x ^sc «(^s*srwva «*me ^fr,"*'i 
 
 
 744 
 
 PELOPONNESUS 
 
 
 
 
 CHAP.XVIII. 
 
 Cinerary 
 receptacles 
 in the rocks. 
 
 bring patients for relief from various disorders. A shortt 
 time before our arrival, this antient bath was covered ; butt 
 wanting materials for building a mill, the inhabitants of a 
 neighbouring village blasted the rocks ; and these falling 
 into the bath, have almost filled it. The water of it is verw 
 clear and brilliant; its taste slightly brackish, but the saline 
 flavour scarcely perceptible. It comes out of the rock from 
 two holes into the bath, and thence falls into the sea- 
 Great part of the ruined buildings and walls about the bath 
 were carried off when the mill was built. At noon we made 
 the following estimate, by means of our thermometer, of 
 the temperature of the atmosphere ; of the water of this 
 warm chalybeate spring ; and also of the water of the sea. 
 
 Atmosphere, in the shade . . . 68° of Fahrenheit. 
 
 Water of the bath, in the shade, 88°. 
 
 Water of the sea 75'\ 
 
 All around this place are sepulchral caves hewn in the rocks 
 near the sea, resembling the burial-places in the neighbour- 
 hood of Jerusalem; but the caves here are much smaller; 
 and the recesses within them, instead of being intended as 
 receptacles for bodies, were evidently niches for cinerary 
 urns ' ; a mode of sepulture relating rather to the Romans 
 than to the Greeks : whence it may be proved that these 
 excavations cannot be more antient than the restoration of 
 Corinth by Julius Caesar, and in all probability they are of 
 a much later age. 
 
 In 
 
 (l) There is an engraved representation of these Caves in Montfaucon's Antiquitc 
 Erpliquee, taken from the Travels of M. de Monceaux ; but the niches are inaccurately 
 delineated, and they are filled with imaginary urns. 
 
ISTHMUS OF CORINTH. 
 
 745 
 
 In the second century the inhabitants of Corinth chap.xviii. 
 consisted entirely of the remains of that colony which had 
 been sent thither by the Romans 2 . The original race, with 
 all their customs and habits, had long been removed. In 
 general we found three niches, placed in a row, in every 
 cave; but in some instances the caves were double; and 
 within each of the chambers there appeared a double row 
 of recesses of different forms, probably adapted, in every 
 instance, to the shape of the vessel intended to contain the 
 ashes of a deceased person; many of them being little arched 
 recesses, and others oblong rectangular cavities suited to 
 the shape of those cinerary receptacles which have been 
 occasionally found, made of marble or terra-cotta, modelled 
 after the form of a Grecian sarcophagus, and of a diminutive 
 size. Several of these caves remain yet unopened; and 
 some are entirely concealed, the entrances being either buried 
 beneath large stones, or covered by soil and vegetation. 
 
 We spent the rest of this day in the examination of the 
 Isthmus, but observed nothing which could be considered 
 as the slightest indication of the place where the Games 
 were celebrated. Chandler had evidently laid down the 
 spot from an erroneous conjecture 3 , founded upon the 
 observations of Wheler: and as he positively asserts 4 that 
 
 neither 
 
 (2) Kopivdov St oIkovgi K.opivQiuv fJ.lv ovcetc tri ruv dftyaio)v, ^ttoikol hi 
 dvoirraXiyrec vtto 'Pw/xaiuv. Pausan. Corinthiaca, c. 1. p. 111. ed. Kuhnii. 
 
 (3) See the '* Chart of the Isthmus of Corinth'" facing p. 234 of Chandler's Trav. 
 in Greece. Oxf. 1/76. 
 
 (4) See Trav. in Greece, p. 243. Oxf. 1/76. 
 
 VOL. III. 5 C 
 
lyyitfWteii c r -S*/?7^/» lT Vrfuff PisiK-jSit,^^'/-! 
 
 ReniarkaLle 
 Tumulus. 
 
 745' PELOPONNESUS. 
 
 chap.xviii. neither the Theatre nor the Stadium were visible, it is plain 
 
 he never visited the part of the Isthmus to which Wheler 
 
 has alluded 1 . We determined therefore to renew our search 
 
 upon the morrow, and returned to Corinth to enjoy the 
 
 prospect from the Acrocorinthus at the setting of the sun. 
 
 From the place where the work of cutting the Canal was 
 
 abandoned, going towards Corinth, the ground rises the whole 
 
 way to the old Vallum ; and there are tombs all up the slope, 
 
 in the direction of the Acrocorinthus. Before arriving at 
 
 the wall in this direction, there is a lofty and very entire 
 
 Tumulus, which is covered with a whitish earth and with 
 
 stones. This, owing to its magnitude and situation, it 
 
 would be very desirable to open. According to Pausanias, 
 
 the sepulchre of Sisyphus was in the Isthmus, although his 
 
 tomb could not be pointed out 12 . We crossed the wall 
 
 again, and observed in the more antient parts of it some 
 
 stones of immense size ; but where the masonry was more 
 
 modern the parts were of less magnitude. We visited 
 
 several antient stone quarries which were very large: 
 
 all the hills to the left were covered with these quarries : 
 
 they extend principally in a straight line, east and west. 
 
 The stupendous rock of the Acrocorinthus, from what- 
 ever part of the Isthmus it is viewed, appears equally 
 conspicuous ; opposing so bold a precipice, and such 
 a commanding eminence high above every approach to the 
 
 Peninsula, 
 
 4crocorinthus. 
 
 (1) See Wheler's " Journey into Greece" Bookvi. p. 437- Lond. 1682. 
 
 (2) Vid. Pausan. in Corinthiac. c. 2. p. 114. ed. Kuhnii. See the Vignette for the 
 situation of this tomb. 
 
ACROCORINTHUS. 
 
 747 
 
 Peninsula, that if properly fortified it would render all access chap.xviii. 
 
 to the Morea, by land, impracticable ; and as a fortress, it 
 
 might be rendered not less secure than that of Gibraltar. 
 
 It was therefore very aptly named by an antient oracle — 
 
 and in times when the art of war was incapable of giving to 
 
 it the importance it might now possess — one of the horns 
 
 which a conqueror ought to lay hold on, in order to secure 
 
 that valuable heifer the Peloponnesus. 
 
 When we returned to Corinth, we found that the 
 Governor, who began to be uneasy at our scrutinizing 
 observations, and considered us as nothing better than spies, 
 would not grant to us permission for entering within the 
 Citadel : all that we could obtain was, the privilege of 
 ascending to the summit of the rock, as far as the outside of 
 the gates of the fortress 3 . The whole of this ascent in the time Ascent t0 tlK 
 
 to Citadel. 
 
 of Pausanias was distinguished by Hiera stationed at certain Htera. 
 intervals 4 , after the manner in which little shrines and sanc- 
 tuaries now appear by the way side, in climbing the passes 
 and heights of mountains in Catholic countries. A person 
 unacquainted with the nature of such an ascent, reading 
 his catalogue of the different objects as they occurred, might 
 
 suppose 
 
 (3) Lusieri afterwards obtained access to the interior, through the interest of the 
 British Minister at the Porte ; but he was narrowly watched the whole time : and 
 during the short stay he made, under the pretence of directing any improvement that 
 might be necessary in the fortifications, he observed no remains of antiquity, excepting 
 the shaft of a small pillar, which perhaps might have belonged to the Temple of Venus. 
 
 (4) Vid. Pausan. in Corinthiac. c. 4. p. 121. ed. Kuhnii. 'Aviovat Si eis rdv 
 
 KlCpOKOplvQoV, K.T.X. 
 
&he ^m 
 
 •w-^i- 
 
 l.^,-^tisj( 
 
 jaq PELOPONNESUS. 
 
 chap.xviii. suppose they were so many temples, instead of niches, shrines', 
 and votive receptacles. In the different contests which 
 Neptune is said to have had for the Grecian territories, one 
 w T as also assigned to him for the Isthmus and Acropolis of 
 Corinth : and as the watery god disputed with Juno and 
 with Minerva for the possession of the Argive and of the 
 Athenian plains, so, in his struggle to maintain the sovereignty 
 of the Corinthian region, he is fabled to have retained 
 possession of the Isthmus, when the lofty rock of the Citadel 
 was adjudged to the Sun ; a fable founded on no very dark 
 tradition respecting the existence of this mountain above the 
 waters of the sea, long before they had entirely abandoned 
 the plain of the Isthmus. That the Peloponnesus had been 
 once an island, was not only an opinion of the Antients 
 concerning it, but a memorial of the fact is preserved in the 
 name it always retained' of " the Island of P 'clops ." The 
 antiquities, as they were noticed by Pausanias 1 , in the ascent 
 of the Acrocorinthus, are as follow : two shrines of his ; 
 two of Sarapis ; the altars of the Sun ; and a Hieron called 
 that of Necessity and Violence, wherein it was not lawful to 
 enter. It is difficult to understand what was meant by this 
 last ; unless it were a place of refuge, like to some of the 
 sanctuaries in Italy, into which it is unlawful to follow any 
 fugitive offender who has there sheltered himself from 
 
 pursuit. 
 
 (1) ITEAOnOS NH202. (Vid. Strabon. Geog. lib. vi.. p. 465. Oxon. 1807.). 
 ric'XoTroc plv Ik t>~).: tywyfac brayofiivou Xaov ik rrp> oV avrov KXrfieiaiu: 
 flEAOriONNHSON, k.t.X. 
 
 (2) Vid. Pausan. in Corinthiac. cap. 4. p. 121. ed. Kuhnii. 
 
 ■iimiiiilhirt 
 

 ACROCORINTHUS. 
 
 749 
 
 pursuit. Above this was a Temple (vuog) of the Mother of chap.xviii. 
 
 the Gods, a Stele, and a Seat (0g6vo$) of stone. There 
 
 seem also to have been fanes consecrated to the Parcce, 
 
 containing images which were not exposed to view ; and 
 
 near to the same spot, a Hieron of Juno Buncea. Upon the 
 
 summit itself stood another Temple (mog) of Venus. In all 
 
 this list, there is mention made of two structures only which 
 
 can properly be considered as temples ; that is to say, the 
 
 Temple of Venus upon the summit of the rock ; and that of 
 
 the Mother of the Gods at some resting-place where there 
 
 was a seat, perhaps about half way up. Fragments of the 
 
 former will probably be discovered by future travellers who 
 
 have liberty to inspect the materials used in constructing 
 
 the foundations and walls of the citadel. All that we 
 
 observed, in going up, were the remains of an antient paved 
 
 way near the gate of the fortress, and the capital of an Ionic 
 
 pillar lying; near the same place. We reached this gate Prospect from 
 
 r J ° x ° the summit 
 
 just before sun-set ; and had, as is always usual from the tops 
 of any of <the Grecian mountains, a more glorious prospect 
 tharr can be seen in any other part of Europe. Wheler calls 
 it "the most agreeable prospect this world can giveV 
 And as from the Parthenon at Athens we had seen the. 
 Citadel of Corinth, so now we had a commanding view, 
 across the Sinus Saronicus, of Salamis and of the Athenian 
 Acropolis. Looking down upon the Isthmus, the shadow of 
 the Acrocorinthus, of a conical shape, extended exactly half 
 
 across 
 
 of the Acro- 
 corinthus. 
 
 (3) See "Journey into Greece," Bookvi. p. 422. Lond. 1682, 
 
m 
 
 
 ■JPjp.W 
 
 S'.vflr 
 
 750 PELOPONNESUS. 
 
 chap.xvih. across its length, the point of the cone being central 
 between the tivo seas. Towards the north we saw 
 Parnassus covered with snow, and Helicon, and Cithceron. 
 Nearer to the eye appeared the mountain Gerania, between 
 Megara and Corinth. But the prospect which we surveyed 
 was by no means so extensive as that seen by Whcler ; 
 because we were denied admission to the fortress, which 
 concealed a part of the view towards our right. We noted 
 however the following bearings by the compass from an 
 eminence near the gate : 
 
 North Point of Olmice Promontory. 
 
 North and by East Helicon. 
 
 North-East and by North . . Summit of Gerania. 
 
 East North East The Isthmus of Corinth lying e.n.e. 
 
 and w. s.w. And beyond it, in the same direction, the summit 
 
 of Cithceron. 
 East Port Schoenus; and beyond it, exact! v 
 
 in the same direction, Athens. 
 
 North and by West Parnassus. % 
 
 North- West and by North . . Sicyonian Promontory. 
 
 On Saturday November the fourteenth we again mounted 
 
 HexamiiHa. our horses, and set out for a village still bearing the name of 
 
 Hexamillia. being situated where the Isthmus is six miles over. 
 
 Discovery of ° 
 
 the Town of an( j wnere the antient town of the same name formerly stood. 
 
 Isthmus. , J 
 
 We had been told that we should be able to purchase 
 medals here of the Albanians ; accordingly we provided 
 ourselves with a quantity of newly-coined parahs, to barter 
 in exchange for them. When we arrived, the number of 
 medals brought to us, and their variety, were so great, that 
 
 we 
 
ISTHMUS OF CORINTH. 
 
 751 
 
 we demanded of the peasants, where they had found them chap.xviii. 
 in such abundance ? One of the inhabitants, who spoke the 
 modern Greek, said they all came from a Palceo- Castro to 
 which they often drove their flocks ; described by them as 
 being situated near a small port at the extremity of the Port SchcenHs. 
 Isthmus upon the side of the Gulph of Engia, towards 
 Mevara. This could be no other than the Port Schoenus; 
 and the mere mention of this important appellation, Palceo- 
 Castro, filled us with the most sanguine expectations that we 
 should here find, what we had sought with so much 
 earnestness, the site of the Isthmian solemnities. Such a 
 variety of coins belonging to different and to distant States of 
 Greece, all collected upon one spot, could only be accounted 
 for by a reference to the concourse so often assembled, in 
 consequence of the Sacred Games, from all parts of Hellas 
 and of Peloponnesus. We therefore took one of the peasants 
 as our guide to the P alceo- Castro ; and leaving the others 
 to collect other medals from the different cottages, 
 promised to return in the evening, and to purchase all 
 they might be able to procure. Antient stone quarries 
 are numerous in the hills above Hexamillia. Beyond 
 this village, towards Mount Oneius, which rises to the 
 north of Schoenus Port, we thought we observed the 
 form of an antient Theatre, of which nothing but the Cotton 
 exists ; neither a seat nor a stone remaining. We then rode 
 directly towards the port and the mountain ; and, crossing 
 an artificial causeway over a fosse, we arrived in the midst 
 of the Ruins. A speedy and general survey of the antiquities 
 here soon decided their history ; for it was evident that we 
 
 had 
 
S-Vr.-iairt? ^M 
 
 nw$l 
 
 752 PELOPONNESUS. 
 
 chap.xviii. had at last discovered the real site of the Isthmian Town, 
 together with the Ruins of the Temple of Neptune, of the 
 Stadium, and of the Theatre 1 . The earth was covered with 
 fragments of various-coloured marble, grey granite, white 
 limestone, broken pottery, disjointed shafts, capitals, and 
 cornices. We observed part of the fluted shaft of a Doric 
 column, which was five feet in diameter. A more particular 
 examination was now necessary; and we proceeded imme- 
 diately to trace the different parts of this scene of desolation, 
 and to measure them in detail. 
 
 We began first to mark, with as much precision as 
 possible, the site of these Ruins, with reference to other 
 objects, that future travellers (in direct contradiction to 
 the statement made by Chandler) may be guided to the 
 spot, and become satisfied of their existence. The best 
 method of finding their precise situation is to attend to 
 the course of the wall which traverses the Isthmus; for 
 this, if it be traced from the Corinthian Gulph, will be 
 found to make a sudden turn before it reaches the shore 
 of the Sinus Saronicus, and to bear away towards Mount 
 Oneius, embracing the whole of the Port of Schoenus, and 
 closing it in upon the Corinthian side. The ruins of the 
 Temple, Stadium, Theatre, together with ivclls, and other 
 indications of the Isthmian Town, surround this port ; and 
 they are, for the most part, situated upon its sides, sloping 
 T Nw?une° l towards tne sea. The remains of the Temple of Neptune 
 
 are 
 
 (1) Vid. Pausan. in Corinth, cap. l & 2. pp. ill, i 12, 113, 114. ed. Kuhnii. 
 
ISTHMUS OF CORINTH. 
 
 are to the west of the Isthmian Wall ; upon an area which 
 is two hundred and seventy-six paces in length, and sixty- 
 four in breadth. A Greek Chapel, also in a ruined state, 
 now stands upon the area of the temple; and this seems to 
 have been the identical building mentioned by Wheler, near 
 to which he found the Inscription published by him, relative 
 to many edifices, not mentioned by Pausanias, that were 
 repaired by Publius Licinius Priscus Juventianw*. Indeed 
 it is wonderful, considering the notice given by him of the 
 Ruins here, that the site of them should afterwards be lost. 
 The materials of the temple are of a white limestone 3 -, and 
 the workmanship of the capitals, the fluting of the columns, 
 and of other ornamental parts of the structure, are extremely 
 beautiful. ■ Not a single pillar remains erect : the columns 
 with their entablatures have all fallen. The building, by its 
 ruins, appears to have been of the Corinthian order ; but there 
 are remains of other edifices in its neighbourhood where the 
 Doric order may be observed, and where the columns are of 
 greater magnitude than at this temple. We measured some 
 of the shafts of columns here that were only two feet nine 
 inches in diameter : and this agrees with a remark made by 
 Pausanias, who states that the dimensions of the Temple 
 were not extraordinary 4 . The capitals are for the most 
 
 part 
 
 753 
 
 CHAP.XVIII. 
 
 (2) " Journey into Greece," Book vi. p. 438. Lond. 1082. 
 
 (3) Called by Pausanias Xidoc Xevnos (vid. p. 112. Corinthiac. c. 1. ed. Kuhnii.) j 
 but this is an expression often applied by him where marble has been used. 
 
 (4) Tw yap Se ovti fxiytdos ov fxu^ovi, k. t. \. Corinthiac. c. 1. p. 1 12. ed. Kuhnii, 
 
 VOL. III. 5 D 
 
■ 
 
 
 754 
 
 PELOPONNESUS. 
 
 CHAP. XV111. p ar t destitute of the rich foliage of the acanthus, although 
 finished with exquisite taste and in the most masterly style 
 of sculpture. Among seven or eight of these capitals, we 
 found only one with the acanthus ornament: yet the edges 
 of the canelurc upon all the shafts of the columns at this 
 temple were flattened, and not sharp as in much larger 
 pillars which we observed higher up towards the wall. We 
 found also a pedestal, which measured at its base four feet 
 and four inches. The fallen architraves and other parts of 
 the entablature also remain. To the south wall of the area 
 of the Temple adjoined" the Theatre ; the Coilon of which, 
 almost filled and overwhelmed by the ruins of the Temple 
 and by the effect of earthquakes, yet remains, facing the 
 Port Schoenus. West of the Theatre is the Stadium 1 , at 
 right angles to the Isthmian Wall : it has very high sides ; 
 and even in its present state, the stone front- work and some 
 of the benches remain at its upper end, although earthquakes 
 or torrents have forced channels into the arena. It extends 
 east and west, parallel to one side of the area of the Temple, 
 to which it w T as adjoined. Just at the place where the 
 Isthmian Wall joins Mount Oneius, is a Tumulus, perhaps that 
 which was supposed to contain the body of Melicertes ; 
 in honour of whose burial the Isthmian Games were instituted, 
 above thirteen hundred years before the Christian asra. It 
 stands on a very conspicuous eminence above the wall, 
 
 which 
 
 Theatre. 
 
 Stadium. 
 
 Sepulchre of 
 Palccmon. 
 
 (1) £ 'u< li av-6di riV fori fiiv 0EATPON, fori « ITAAION XWou 
 Xtvicov. Pausan. in Corinth, c. 1. p. 112. ed. Kuhnii. 
 
ISTHMUS OF CORINTH. 
 
 which here passes towards the south-south-east, quite to 
 the port, after reaching the mount. There was within the 
 sacred Per/bolus, according to Fausanias*, a temple dedicated 
 to Meliceries, under his posthumous name of Palawion 3 ; and 
 it contained statues of the boy and of his mother Leucothea, 
 and of Neptune. The situation therefore of the Tomb, being 
 almost contiguous with the Peribolus, is very remarkable ; 
 the whole of these magnificent structures, the Temples, the 
 Theatre, the Stadium, and the Isthmia themselves, having 
 originated in the honours paid to his sepulchre. Going from 
 the Stadium towards this wall, we found fragments of Doric 
 columns, whose shafts were near six feet in diameter ; the 
 edges of the canelure being sharp : these were of the same 
 white limestone as the rest. But among all the remains 
 here, perhaps the most remarkable, as corresponding with 
 the indications left us by Pausanias of the spot, is the 
 living family of those Pine- trees, sacred to Neptune, w r hich 
 he says grew in a right line, upon one side, in the approach 
 to the Temple ; the statues of victors in the Games- being 
 upon the other side 4 . Many of these, self sown, are seen 
 on the outside of the wall, upon the slope of the land facing 
 
 the 
 
 755 
 
 CHAP.XVIII. 
 
 Trees from 
 which Vic- 
 tors in the 
 Isthmia were 
 crowned. 
 
 {2) Vid. Pausan. in Corinthiac. c. 2. p. 113. ed. Kuhnu. 
 
 (3) 'E&vf^&fjTfH cc it tov Kopivdiuv 'ladfxoy viro l£k(biivo<: («c Xcytrai) rov 
 Tratcoc, Tiftial Kftl dXXctt -w MEAIKEPTHI ctcovrat /jurovofiatrdcvTi TlAAAIMONI, 
 k-cu T.QN TSQMIHN En' ATTHI TON AmNA ArOTSI. Pausan. Attica, c. 44. 
 p. 10S. ed. Kuhnu. 
 
 (4) 'E\0oVrt rt h rov deov to updv, rovro f.uv ddXtfruy viK^advrioy rd lird/Ka 
 iffTiJKCtaiv ttKovic, tovto cc niTTflN AENAPA isrt 7re(j)vrei>f.iiya Irrl otoi^ov rd 
 77-oMo k svdv avruv dvTJKOvra. Pausan. Corinth, c. 1. p. 112. ed. Kuhnii. 
 
p$sw : ^&€£: 
 
 ■H wmptipx t*w* 
 
 756 
 
 CHAP.XVJII. 
 
 PELOPONNESUS. 
 
 the port 1 . They may also be observed farther along the 
 coast ; which exactly agrees with a remark made by the 
 same author, who relates, that in the beginning of the 
 Isthmus there were Pine-trees, to which the robber Binis 
 used to bind his captives 2 . Every thing conspires to render 
 their appearance here particularly interesting : the victors 
 in the Isthmia were originally crowned with garlands made 
 of their leaves, although chaplets of parsley were afterwards 
 used instead of them 3 : they are particularly alluded to by 
 Pausanias, as one of the characteristic features of the 
 country : and that they were regarded with a superstitious 
 veneration to a late age, appears from the circumstance of 
 their being represented upon the Greek colonial medals, 
 struck in honour of the Roman Emperors. Allusion was 
 made in the last Chapter to a bronze medal found at 
 Sicyon, whereon one of these trees is represented with the 
 boy MeUcertes upon a dolphin. 
 
 The vicinity of these Ruins to the sea has very, much 
 facilitated the removal of many valuable antiquities, as 
 materials for building ; the inhabitants of all the neighbouring- 
 shores having long been accustomed to resort hither, as to a 
 
 quarry : 
 
 (1) This Pine is a variety of the Pinus syluestris, commonly called Pinits maritima. 
 Wheler called these trees " Sea Pines with small cones." See Journey into Greece, 
 p. 446. Lond. l682. 
 
 (2) Vid. Pausan. in Corinth, c. I. p. 111. ed. Kulnili. 
 
 (3) Archbishop Potter observes, that " the use of parsley was afterwards left off, and 
 the Pine-tree came again into request; which alterations Plutarch has accounted for in 
 the fifth book of his Symposiacks," (Quaest. 3.) Archceologia, vol, J. c. 25. p. 457. 
 Lond. 1751. 
 
ISTHMUS OF CORINTH. 
 
 quarry : but no excavations have hitherto taken place. 
 Persons have been recently sent from England to carry on 
 researches, by digging upon the site of the antient cities and 
 temples of Greece, and it may therefore be hoped that this 
 spot will not remain long neglected. There is no part of 
 the country which more especially requires this kind of 
 examination. The concourse to the Isthmia was of such 
 a nature, and continued for so many ages, that if there be 
 a place in all Greece likely to repay the labour and the 
 expense necessary 'for such an undertaking, it is the spot 
 where these splendid solemnities were held. Indeed this 
 has been already proved, in the quantity of medals found 
 continually by the peasants of Hexamillia among the Ruins 
 here : and the curious Inscription which Wheler discovered 
 lying upon the area of the temple 4 affords reasonable ground 
 for believing, that many other documents, of the same nature, 
 might be brought to light with very little difficulty. 
 
 In returning from the site of these antiquities to Hexa- 
 millia, we observed several tombs by the side of the old 
 road which led from Corinth to the town of Isthmus, exactly 
 similar to the mounds we had seen in Kuban Tartary. This 
 primeval mode of burial, originally introduced into Greece 
 by the Titan-Celts, continued in use among the Corinthians ; 
 for Pausanias, speaking of the antient inhabitants, says, that 
 they interred their dead always beneath a heap of earth. 
 
 As 
 
 757 
 
 CHAP. XVI II. 
 
 (4) See Wheler's " Journey into Greece," Book vi. p. 438. 
 
 0EOI2 * 11ATPIOIZ • KA1 • THI • nATPIAI- k. r. X. 
 
■ ^^ £■•<,■: 
 
 Pstf^^tM^ SVBfcyti <»;.<"'«" * V;V i* 1 ' 
 
 758 
 
 PELOPONNESUS. 
 
 CHAP.XVIII. 
 
 As soon as we arrived at HexamUlia, the inhabitants of 
 
 both sexes, and of all ages, tempted by the sight which they 
 
 had already gained of the new parahs, flocked around us, 
 
 bringing carpets for us to sit upon in the open air : and a 
 
 Extraordinary very curious market was opened for the sale of a single 
 
 Mart for Gre- 
 cian Medals, commodity; namely, the antient medals found at different 
 
 times among the Ruins we had visited. The young women 
 wore several silver medals mixed with base coin as orna- 
 ments, in a kind of cap upon their foreheads, and among 
 their hair. These they were not very willing to dispose of; 
 but the temptation offered by the shining parahs was not to 
 be resisted, and we bought almost all we saw. The bronze 
 coins were in great number : but we obtained many very 
 curious medals in silver ; and among these, the most antient 
 of the city of Corinth, in rude globular forms exhibiting the 
 head of Pallas in front, within a square indented cavity ; and 
 upon their obverse sides, those antique figures of Pegasus, in 
 which the wings of the horse are inflected towards the 
 mane. The medals with this die have been sometimes 
 confounded with those of Sicily ; but we obtained one 
 whereon appeared, in Roman characters, the letters cor. 
 One of the most curious things which we noticed among 
 our acquisitions, was an antient forgery ; a base coin of 
 Corinth, made of brass, and silvered over. The others 
 consisted of silver and bronze medals, of Alexander the 
 Great ; of Phocis ; of Tanagra in Bceotia ; of Megara ; 
 of Alea in Arcadia; Argos ; Sicyon ; JEgina; and Chalcis ; 
 together with a few Roman coins, and some of less note. 
 We were surprised by not finding among them any of 
 
 Athens ; 
 

 CORINTH. 
 
 759 
 
 Athens', which are common enough elsewhere. When chap.xvhi, 
 
 we had concluded our business in Hexamillia, we returned 
 
 again to Corinth ; and saw, in our road, the remains of 
 
 some buildings, evidently Roman, from the appearance of 
 
 the opus reticulatum in the masonry : among these was the 
 
 Ruin of a large structure, which seemed to have been an 
 
 aqueduct. 
 
 It was late when we reached our quarters. Two of the 
 Levant Consuls sate with us during the evening. Their uni- Dress of the, 
 
 iii* r T-i Levant 
 
 form combines, in a singular manner, the habits of Eastern consuls. 
 and Western nations : it is a long dress, with a three- 
 cornered hat, a bag wig, and an anchor on the button of 
 the hat. 
 
 On Sunday, November the fifteenth, there was a fair in 
 Corinth. We saw nothing worth notice, except an Arcadian Pawiapan 
 
 ° * Horn. 
 
 pipe, upon which a shepherd was playing in the streets. 
 It was perfectly Pandcean; consisting simply of a goat's 
 horn, with five holes for the fingers, and a small aperture 
 at the end for the mouth. It is exceedingly difficult to pro- 
 duce any sound whatever from this small instrument ; but 
 the shepherd made the air resound with its shrill notes : and 
 we bought his pipe. This day we left Corinth entirely. 
 The Bey positively refused to allow us to proceed by land 
 to Megara ; we therefore engaged with a couple of men 
 who had a boat stationed in the harbour of Cenchrece, to 
 take us along the coast. In our way to that harbour, we 
 again visited the village of Hexamillia ; and, after passing the 
 same, we perceived that the Stone Quarries, the remains of 
 the Isthmian Wall, and of the Town of Isthmus at its eastern 
 
 extremity, 
 
s*¥! W*f>*t 
 
 ^^m 
 
 3^ \y t r^ ^^m ,- v ^ 
 
 v»-W, -!»■-»¥•' ■ 
 
 
 760 
 
 PELOPONNESUS. 
 
 
 
 cHAP . xviif. extremity, are seen forming a high ridge upon the left hand, 
 parallel to the mountains upon the right. The Remains at 
 
 Cenchrem. Cenchre^b faithfully correspond with the description given 
 
 Bath of Helen, by Pausanias of the place '. We visited the Bath of Helen : 
 it is formed by a spring, which here boils up with force 
 enough to turn a mill, close to the sea. We found no dif- 
 ference of temperature, whether the thermometer were 
 placed in the water of this spring, or in the sea, or exposed 
 in the shade to the air of the atmosphere at mid-day. 
 The three trials gave exactly the same result ; — 64° of 
 Fahrenheit. The men we had hired did not return from the 
 fair ; so, after waiting for some time, we procured another 
 boat, and went to a village, the name of which was pro- 
 
 convangee. nounced Convangee ", where we passed the night. The next 
 morning, at sun-rise, we embarked again. The wind proved 
 contrary. We landed, and reached a miserable hamlet, 
 consisting only of six houses, called Carneta or Canetto, 
 
 Cromyon. upon the site of the antient Cromyon. Its wretched inha- 
 
 bitants, a set of sickly-looking people, in the midst of very 
 bad air, had never seen a glove, and expressed the utmost 
 astonishment at seeing a person take one off his hand. 
 Notwithstanding the insalubrity of the situation, and the 
 unhealthy looks of the people, there was no appearance of 
 
 poverty 
 
 (1) Vid. Pausan. in Corinth, c. 2. p. 114. ed.Kuhn. — The place is now called by 
 its antient name, pronounced Cenchri. 
 
 (2) This, in all probability, is very remote from the manner in which this word 
 ought to be written. If it be a Greek name, the Fis always j3. 
 

 Manners of 
 the Peasants. 
 
 ISTHMUS OF CORINTH. ^(J| 
 
 poverty or misery within their cottages. The houses, like chap.xvhi. 
 those of the Albanians in general, were very neat, although 
 the cattle lodged with their owmers beneath the same roof. 
 The resemblance which the Albanians bear to the High- 
 landers of Scotland, in their dress, habits, and mode of life, 
 is said to be very striking in a land which is more peculiarly 
 their own", and where their employments are less agricultural 
 than in the Morea ; but even here we could not avoid being 
 struck with appearances, forcibly calling to mind the man- 
 ners and customs we had often witnessed among Caledonian 
 heaths and mountains. The floors were all of earth ; and 
 instead of chimnies there was in every cottage a hole through 
 the roof; but the walls were neatly white- washed, and the 
 hard earthen floors were swept, and made as clean as pos- 
 sible. Every house had its oven, which was kept remarkably 
 clean ; and the whitest bread was set before us, with the richest 
 and most highly-flavoured honey. The fire being kindled 
 in the middle of the floor, the peasants form a circle around 
 it, sitting or lying with their feet towards the hearth. Their 
 conversation is cheerful and animated ; and, as it was inter- 
 preted to us, it seemed to be filled with as lively sallies of 
 wit against the faults of their Governors, as it is usual to hear 
 
 among 
 
 (3) There is an observation upon this subject by Lord Byron, in the Notes to his 
 deathless Poem, " Childe Harold's Pilgrimage." " The Arnaouts, or Allanese, 
 struck me forcibly by their resemblance to the Highlanders of Scotland, in dress, 
 figure, and manner of living. Their very mountains seemed Caledonian with a 
 kinder climate. The kilt, though white ; the spare, active form ; their dialect, Celtic 
 in its sound ; and their hardy habits, all carried me back to Morven " Childe Harold's 
 Pilgrimage, Notes to Canto 11. p. 125. Lond. 1812. 
 
 VOL. III. 5 E 
 
\txm& 
 
 ww 1 ?'- ffi'if *??tf*, JTT^ 
 
 762 PELOPONNESUS. 
 
 chap.xviii. among nations boasting of the freedom they enjoy. We; 
 could not hear of any antiquities in the neighbourhood; nor 
 did we expect even a tradition of the Cromyonian soiv, or 
 any other exploit of Theseus in the Straits of Peloponnesus, 
 among a people who are not the indigenous inhabitants of 
 the country. A single black terra-cot ta vessel, of small 
 size, and shaped like a bottle, found in some sepulchre near 
 the place, was the only relique of antient Cromyon that we 
 were able to procure. 
 
 Monday, November the sixteenth, the wind continuing 
 still contrary, we hired asses, and determined to proceed by 
 land ; being now safe from interruption on the part of the 
 Governor of Corinth, and relying upon the Albanians for 
 protection, who are generally considered as the only persons 
 exercising the Scironian profession in these parts. At the 
 same time, we sent the boat to Megara with our baggage. 
 In our road we saw a great number of those pines, or pitch- 
 trees, alluded to by authors with reference to the history 
 of the famous robber Sinis 1 ; who, first bending their stems 
 to the earth, fastened his prisoners to the branches, so that 
 when the trees, by their elasticity, sprang up again, the 
 bodies of his captives were torn asunder. We passed under 
 the Scironian rocks : their appearance is very remarkable, 
 and likely to give rise to fabulous tales, if they had been 
 situated in any other country. They consist of breccia, 
 which here, as in the Isthmus of Corinth, and indeed 
 over all the north of Peloponnesus, and in Attica, is 
 
 superjacent 
 
 (1) "Eort li iirl tov 'ladpov rr/t U/C>X>K, * v ^ a °' ^J/ " 7 "') 5 21NI2 \afipa>dptvQi 
 irtTvuvj yysv h to kcLtu cr(pu<;. Pausan. Corinth, c. 1. p. 111. ed. Kuhnii. 
 
 Scironian 
 Defile. 
 

 
 Ann. ALBANIAN of (SJREECE. 
 
 J'iiNis/1,,1 .M.irrii.i.iSu.hi' TihJsli .«•//: Danes ".Strand \Lando 
 
3mh£ S5B5G65&S3S 6SSS ESmB ■BOEjEiMMfi hmh 
 
 |M _ MH| g Hajtai| ll ia| 
 
SCIRONIAN ROCKS. 
 
 763 
 
 superjacent upon a stratum of limestone. The breccia of chap . xviu . 
 the Scironian rocks presents, towards the sea, a steep and 
 slippery precipice, sloping from the narrowest part of the 
 Isthmian Strait towards the Si?ws Saronicus. It is so highly 
 polished, either by the former action of the sea to which 
 it is opposed, or by the rushing of torrents occasionally over 
 its surface, that any person falling from the heights would 
 glide as over a surface of glass ; and be dashed to pieces 
 upon the shore, or, in some parts of the precipice, fall into 
 the waves. The Story of Sappho has given the name of " The 
 Lovers Leap" to at least a dozen precipices, in as many 
 different parts of the world ; and this is one of the places 
 whence Ino is said to have precipitated herself, with her 
 son Meliccrtes \ Hence also the old stories of the dangers 
 to which travellers were exposed in the narrow pass above 
 the Scironia Saxa, from the assaults of Sciron, who, it 
 was said, compelled them to wash his feet, and then kicked 
 them down these precipices into the sea. Not only were 
 the rocks called Scironian, but the road itself was named 
 Sciron. It was said to have been enlarged by the Emperor 
 Hadrian ; but we found it to be so narrow, after we had 
 gained the heights, that there was barely room for two 
 persons on horseback to pass each other. A lofty mountain 
 above the pass, covered with snow during the greater part 
 of the year, is called Gerao, the antient Gerania 3 . We 
 
 had 
 
 (2) Vid. Pausan. in Attic, c. 44. p. 108. ed. Kuhnii. 
 
 (3) Wheler says the modern name of Gerania is Palceo-vouni. See Journ. into 
 Greece, p. 436. Lond. 1682. 
 

 764 
 
 CHAP.XVII1. 
 
 Boundary 
 between Pelo- 
 ponnesus and. 
 HELLJS. 
 
 KAKH 
 
 2KAAA. 
 
 BOUNDARY OF PELOPONNESUS AND HELLAS. 
 
 had seen it from the pass of Tretus, near the Cave of the 
 Nemecea?i Lion, in our journey from Mycenae to Nemea. 
 There is a town near this mountain, called Calaverti. We 
 soon came to the antient Paved Way leading from Attica into 
 Peloponnesus ; and arrived at the Wall and arched Gate, high 
 above the sea ; where, in the narrow strait, is still marked 
 the antient boundary between the two countries. The 
 old portal, once of so much importance, is now a ruin ; but 
 part of the stone- work, mixed with tiles, which was above 
 an arch, yet remains on the side of the mountain ; and 
 beyond it, on the side of Attica, we saw more of the old 
 paved road. The place is now called Katche Scala; a modern 
 method of pronouncing Kaxrj 2*«Aa, the Bad Way. The 
 defile was always considered as full of danger to the 
 traveller; and it maintains its pristine character. The/Turks 
 never pass it without the most lively apprehensions ; 
 expecting to be attacked here by banditti. Ibrahim, that he 
 might avoid this pass, had preferred a tedious and turbulent 
 passage in the boat with our baggage. For our parts, we 
 reposed such confidence in our worthy Albanians, that we 
 never bestowed a thought upon the chance of meeting 
 robbers ; and they liked our society the better because we 
 were not accompanied by a Turk. Close to the Scironian 
 Gate we observed a prodigious block of white marble, 
 lying out of the road upon the brink of the precipice; which 
 had been thrown down, and had very nearly fallen from the 
 heights into the sea. There was an Inscription upon it, 
 perhaps relating to the widening of the pass, and to the 
 
 repairs 
 
 c . 
 
MEGA R A. 
 
 765 
 
 repairs of the road by Hadrian ; but we could only trace chapxvih. 
 a semblance of the following letters : 
 
 O A 
 OION Al A0I2N AX1IO 
 
 At the place where the Arch stood was perhaps formerly 
 the Stele 1 erected by Theseus ; inscribed on one side, 
 " Here is Peloponnesus, not Ionia;" and upon the other, 
 " Here is not Peloponnesus, but Ionia." Having passed Entrance of 
 
 Helios. 
 
 the spot, we now quitted the Morea, and once more 
 entered Hellas 1 , by the Megarean land. 
 
 We began to descend almost immediately ; and, as we 
 had expected from the frequent instances which characterize 
 the Grecian cities, we no sooner drew nigh to Megara, than 
 the prospect of a beautiful and extensive plain opened before 
 us, walled on every side by mountains, but in this example 
 somewhat elevated above the usual level of such campaign 
 territories. From a view of this important field, it must causes of the 
 
 celebrity of 
 
 be evident that the town of Megara owed its celebrity more Megara. 
 to its fertile domain, than to its position with respect to the 
 sea ; yet it is natural to suppose that the inhabitants of this 
 country were fishermen and pirates, before they turned their 
 attention towards the produce of the soil. Plutarch believed, 
 that the fabled contest between Neptune and Minerva, for 
 Attica, was an allusion to the efforts made by the antient 
 kings of the country, to withdraw their subjects from a sea- 
 faring life, towards agricultural employments 2 . Be this as it 
 
 may ; 
 
 (1) " Ab Isthmi angustiis Hellas incipit, nostris Grcecia appellata." Plin. Hist. Nat. 
 lib. iv. c. 7. torn. I. p. 210. L. Bat. 1035. 
 
 (2) Vid. Plutarch, in Themist. p. 87. 1.23. 
 

 766' 
 
 CHAP.XVIU. 
 
 The modern 
 Town. 
 
 ATTICA. 
 
 may; when both were united, and it is known that the 
 convenience of a maritime situation was superadded to the 
 advantages of inland wealth, we no longer wonder that 
 Megara was able to make so distinguished a figure as she 
 formerly did, in the common cause. At the battle of Salamis 
 she furnished twenty ships for the defence of Greece ; and 
 at Platcea numbered her three hundred warriors in the 
 army of Pausanias. The city existed above eleven centuries 
 before the Christian aera ; and, in the days of its splendor, 
 it boasted its peculiar sect of Philosophers. Its situation 
 also with respect to Peloponnesus added to its consequence ; 
 being the depositary of all goods intended for conveyance 
 over the Scironian defile. As the traveller descends from 
 this pass, it appears upon a rock, which is situated upon 
 the edge of an immense quadrangular plain extending 
 towards the left of the spectator ; the site of the present 
 town being close to that corner of it which is towards 
 the sea, and nearest to Eleusis. Upon our left, just before 
 we arrived, we saw a large Tumulus, on which there 
 seems to have stood some considerable monument. The 
 place is much altered even since Whelers time ; but the 
 inhabitants retain many old Grecian customs. We saw 
 them roast a large goat entire, upon a pole, in the 
 middle of the public street. It is from Megara that Cicero, 
 in his letters to Atticus, desires his friend to send him two 
 specimens of Grecian sculpture. Formerly it was famous for 
 its earthenware ; and fine vases have been found here by 
 modern travellers : but we were not fortunate in our inquiry 
 after its terra-cottas : we procured only a few fragments of a 
 
 bright 
 

 J1EGARA. 
 
 767 
 
 CHAP.XVIII. 
 
 bright red colour, beautifully fluted, that we found lying 
 among the ruins of the city. We had better success in lmcriptims . 
 our search for Inscriptions ; although it may be said of 
 Meo-ara, (whose antiquities in the second century occupied, 
 in their mere enumeration, six chapters of l Pausanias's 
 description of Greece,) that, excepting its name, it retains 
 hardly any thing to remind us of its former consideration. 
 The first Inscription that we found here, is " in honour of 
 Callinicus, Scribe and Gymnasiarch." It was upon a large 
 stone, twelve feet in length, in the front of an antient gate 
 leading from the city towards the sea. This is the identical 
 Inscription which Wheler has published 4 ; and we discovered 
 it exactly as it was left by him. The next is a very fine one, 
 which he did not observe ; and it is much more worthy of 
 preservation. We saw it at the house of the Archon where 
 we lodged : it is in honour of Hadrian, whose usual titles are 
 added. From the title of Olympius, once bestowed by 
 the Athenians upon Pericles 3 , and answering to AIOI, 
 we are able to ascertain the date of the Inscription; 
 which is of the year of Christ 132 \ It sets forth, 
 that " under the care of Julius the Proconsul, and in 
 the Prcetorship of Aischron, this {monument or statue) is raised 
 by the Adrianidce to Adrian." 
 
 TON 
 
 (1) Fragments of the Lapis Conckites mentioned by Pausanias {Attic, c. 44. p. 107. 
 ed. Kuhnii), and vestiges of the " long walls," were observed at Mcgara, by Mr. Walpole 
 and Professor Palmer. 
 
 (2) See " Wheler's Journey into Greece," p. 434. Land. 1682. 
 
 (3) Vid. Plutarch, in fin. Pericl. 
 
 (4) Vid Corsini Fast. Att. Diss, xi. 
 

 ATTICA. 
 
 TONAIIAYTOKPATOPAKAIIAPA 
 
 TPAI ANON 
 AAPIANONZEBAITONOAYMniON 
 
 I1YOION 
 n AN EAAHNIONTONEAYTftN KTIX 
 
 TH N KAI NO 
 MOOETHNKAITPO<t>EAAAPIA 
 
 NlAAIYnO 
 THNEHIMEAEIANIOYAIOYKAN 
 
 AITOYTOY 
 KPATIZTOYANGYnATOYSTPATH 
 
 TOYN 
 TOIAIIXPflNOITOYAAMOK 
 AEOYI 
 
 We copied a few other Inscriptions ; but some of them are 
 already published \ and the others are in too imperfect a 
 state to be rendered intelligible. The medals brought 
 by the inhabitants were few in number, and badly pre- 
 served 2 . Ionic and Doric capitals, of white limestone and 
 
 of 
 
 (1) See "■ Wheler's Journey into Greece," p. 432, &c. Lond. 1682. 
 
 (2) Bronze coins, with an entire legend, MErAPEftN, are in the collection at 
 Paris; exhibiting the head of Apollo in front, and for reverse a Lyre : but these seem 
 to have belonged to a city of Sicily. The medals of the Attic Megara exhibit in front 
 the prow of a ship ; and for their obverse, either a Tripod between two Dolphins, or 
 the two Dolphins without the Tripod. The author has never seen a silver medal 
 answering this description ; but as a proof that these are medals of the Attic and not 
 of the Sicilian Megara, it should be mentioned, that they are found here upon the 
 spot ; and the circumstance of his having found them in abundance upon the neigh- 
 bouring Isthmus of Corinth may be also alleged as presumptive evidence of the fact. 
 The oldest medals of Megara that he has seen, exhibit two Dolphins in fiont ; and for 
 reverse merely a square indentation : and these were found by him at Hexamillia in the 
 Isthmus. 
 

 JOURNEY FROM MEGARA TO ELEUSIS. 
 
 769 
 
 of marble, lie scattered among the Ruins, and in the courts chap.xvhi. 
 
 of some of the houses. The remains of the " long walls " 
 
 which inclosed the land between Megara and the sea, and 
 
 connected the city with its port, are yet visible ; and within 
 
 this district, below the present town, some pieces of fine 
 
 sculpture have been discovered, and long since carried away. 
 
 Here is also a Well, supposed to be that fountain mentioned 
 
 by Pausanias s , as adorned by Theagenes, and sacred to the 
 
 Sithnides ; near to which there was a Temple, containing 
 
 the works of Praxiteles. A modern superstition belonging 
 
 to this WelV seems to associate with the circumstances of 
 
 its antient history, and thereby to identify the spot ; which 
 
 may be of consequence to future travellers, who visit 
 
 Megara for the purpose of making excavations. 
 
 Thursday November the seventeenth we began our ^"* yto 
 journey from Megara towards Eleusis and Athens, filled 
 with curiosity to examine the vestiges of the Eleusinian 
 Temple; and along a tract of land where every footstep 
 excites the most affecting recollections. By every antient 
 zvell, and upon every tomb, at which the traveller is 
 induced to halt, and to view the noble objects by which he 
 is surrounded, a crowd of interesting events rush into his 
 mind ; and so completely occupy it, that even fatigue and 
 fever, from which he is seldom free, are for a moment 
 
 forgotten. 
 
 (3) "E<tti Si ey rp ttoXh ^pijvt}, Kai ofyioiv fK0^6pr)a£ Qeayivrft, k. t. \. Kai 
 u$wp ie avri]v pel Ka\ovp.tvov £i0»'«W vvp,(j>uy. Pausaniae Attica, c. 40. p. 9^- 
 ed. Kuhnii. 
 
 (4) See Hobhouse's Travels, p. 482. Lond. 1813. 
 
 VOL. III. 5 F 
 

 
 770 
 
 II E LLAS, 
 
 ch^xvim. forgotten. As we left Megara, we had a magnificent view 
 of the Saronic Gulph, and of the Island Salamis, the scene 
 of the great naval engagement, where three hundred and 
 eighty sail of the Grecian fleet defeated the vast arma- 
 ment of Xerxes, amounting to two thousand ships. The 
 distance between Megara and Eleusis, according to the 
 Antoninc Itinerary , is thirteen miles. After travelling half an 
 hour, we observed, in the plain upon our right, the remains 
 of a building which seemed to have been an antient Temple ; 
 and one mile farther, we observed a similar ruin upon an 
 eminence by the same side of our road. The plain here 
 is very beautiful and fertile. When Whelcr passed, it was 
 covered with anemonies 1 . Another ruin appeared also upon 
 a hill a quarter of a mile nearer to Eleusis ; and a little 
 beyond this, upon the left, close to the road, we saw two 
 Tombs opposite to each other. Soon afterwards we came 
 to a Well, at which our guides stopped to wrter their mules. 
 Soon after passing this well we saw another Tomb, and 
 many heaps of stones, as of ruined structures, upon our left. 
 The Reader, comparing these remains with the account given 
 by Pausanias, may affix names to them according to his 
 own ideas of their coincidence with his description. An 
 author would not be pardoned who launches into mere 
 Kerata. conjecture with regard to any one of them. We then 
 began to ascend a part of the mountain Kerata, so named 
 from its double summit, and now called Gerata. We 
 saw upon the shore below us a few houses, and an 
 
 appearance 
 
 (l) Journey into Greece, p. 430. Lond. 1682. 
 

 
 772 
 
 CHAP.XVIIf. 
 
 Aqueduct. 
 
 Temple o) 
 Ceres. 
 
 Statue of the 
 Goddess. 
 
 Superstition 
 of the 
 
 Inhabitant^. 
 
 ELEUSIS. 
 
 Arriving upon the site of the city of Eleusts, we found 
 the plain to be covered with its Ruins. The first thing we 
 noticed was an Aqueduct, part of which is entire. Six com- 
 plete arches are yet to be seen. It conducted towards the 
 Acropolis, by the Temple of Ceres. The remains of this Temple 
 are more conspicuous than those of any other structure 
 except the Aqueduct. The paved road which led to it is also 
 visible, and the pavement of the Temple yet remains. But to 
 heighten the interest with which we regarded the reliques of 
 the Eleusinian fane, and to fulfil the sanguine expectations 
 we had formed, the fragment of a colossal Statue, mentioned 
 by many authors as that of the Goddess herself, appeared in 
 colossal majesty among the mouldering vestiges of her once 
 splendid sanctuary. We found it, exactly as it had been 
 described to us by the Consul at Nauplia, on the side of the 
 road, immediately before entering the village, and in the 
 midst of a heap of dung, buried as high as the neck, a little 
 beyond the farther extremity of the pavement of the Temple. 
 Yet even this degrading situation had not been assigned to 
 it wholly independent of its antient history. The inhabitants 
 of the small village which is now situated among the Ruins 
 of Eleusis still regarded this Statue with a very high degree 
 of superstitious veneration. They attributed to its presence 
 the fertility of their land; and it was for this reason that they 
 heaped around it the manure intended for their fields. They 
 
 believed 
 
 Eleusis, (see " Journ. into Greece," p. 430. Lond. 1682.) which we failed to observe. 
 The Plain of Eleusis is about eight miles long, and four in breadth. Wheler makes the 
 Rharian Plain, " a valley only three or four miles in compass." 
 
E L E U S I S. JJ3 
 
 believed that the loss of it would be followed by no less a chap.xviii. 
 calamity than the failure of their annual harvests ; and they 
 pointed to the ears of bearded wheat, among the sculptured 
 ornaments upon the head of the figure, as a never-failing indi- 
 cation of the produce of the soil. To this circumstance may 
 perhaps be attributed a main part of the difficulties opposed 
 to its removal, in the various attempts made for the purpose, 
 during the years that have elapsed since it was first noticed 
 by an English traveller 1 . With regard to the allusions 
 subsequently made to it by other writers, as the author has 
 already concentrated every testimony of this nature 5 , it 
 will not be necessary to repeat them here. It is sufficient 
 merely to state, that this Statue, consisting of the white 
 marble of Pentelicus, which also afforded the materials of 
 the Temple, bears evident marks of the best age of the 
 Grecian sculpture : but it is in a very ruined state. A vein 
 of schistus, one of the extraneous substances common to the 
 Pentelican marble, traversing the whole mass of the stone 
 in a direction parallel to the back of the Statue, has suffered 
 decomposition during the lapse of ages in which it has 
 remained exposed to the action of the atmosphere ; and by its 
 exfoliation, has caused the face, and a part of the neck, of 
 the Statue, to fall off; but in the Calathus, which yet remains 
 as an ornament of the head, the sculpture, although much 
 injured, is still fine : and that it was originally finished with 
 
 the 
 
 (1) Sir George Wheler in 1676. 
 
 (2) " Greek Marbles;' Cambridge, ISO9. To which may also be added the testi- 
 • oony of Perry, as given in his " View of the Levant" printed in 1743. 
 

 774 ELEUSIS. 
 
 chap.xviii. tne greatest elegance and labour is evident ; because, in the 
 foliage of a chaplet which surrounds the whole, a small poppy 
 is represented upon every leaf, carved and polished with all 
 the perfection of a Cameo. The remains of the Temple have 
 been described by almost all the authors who have mentioned 
 the Statue ; and its dimensions are given by Chandler 1 . The 
 broken shafts and capitals of the columns lie around in pro- 
 miscuous heaps of ruin. We sought, without success, the 
 pedestal believed by Wheler* to have been the base of the 
 
 inscriptions. Statue; but we discovered the following Inscription upon a 
 marble pedestal of no considerable magnitude. 
 
 HEiAPEIOnATOY 
 
 BOYAH KAIH BOYAH 
 
 TnN<t>KAIOAH MOX 
 
 OA0HNAIANKAAYAI 
 
 ANMENANAPANKAAY 
 
 AIOY<MAinnOYTOY 
 
 AAAOYXHZANTO20YTATE 
 
 PAKAAYAEMOZTPATOYET 
 
 rONONAIARPASArOPOYA 
 
 nOTONONAPETHIENEKEN 
 
 " In honour of Claudia Menandra, the daughter of Claudius 
 Philippus, ivho had been Torch-hearer at the Mysteries, the 
 Senate of the Areopagus, the Council of Five Hundred, and 
 People of Athens, erect this." 
 
 We 
 
 (i) Travels in Greece, p. 190. Oxf. 1776. 
 (2) Journey into Greece, p. 428. Lond. 1682. 
 
£2WJ^*ra^3£l*KE£i* 
 
 
 ELEUSIS. 
 
 775 
 
 We found also another, " in honour of one of the Eu- chap. xvhi. 
 molpidce" inscribed upon the same kind of bluish limestone 
 which was used for the frieze of the Ercctheum at Athens, 
 and of which the Cella of the Temple here also consisted. 
 The stone being partly buried, we could only read the 
 following characters : 
 
 EYMOAniAHNAYKOMI. . . . 
 
 AIABIOYENEAEYZINIME. . . 
 
 AAnnNENZAMHAETHZ 
 
 EYZ EBEI AZEN EKATHZ . . PO . . 
 
 Upon a very large cylindrical pedestal of marble, before 
 a small church now occupying a part of the site of a 
 Temple 3 , perhaps that of Diana Propylcea, upon the brow 
 of the hill, we found another Inscription : this was observed 
 in the same place by Spon, and it was afterwards published 
 in his work 4 . 
 
 We must now interrupt our account of the Antiquities 
 of Eleusis, by a transition as sudden as was the cause of it. 
 Having made some proposals to the priest of the village for the 
 purpose of purchasing and removing the mutilated fragment 
 of the Statue of Ceres, and of using his influence with the 
 people to that effect, we were informed that these measures 
 could only be pursued by obtaining ajirmdn from the Waiwode 
 of Athens ; to whom, as lord of the manor, all property of this 
 
 description 
 
 (3) See the Engraving from Mr. GeWs accurate view of Eleusis, as published in 
 1809 : " Greek Marbles;' p. 15. 
 
 (4) Voyage de Grece, &c. torn. II. p. 335. a la Haye, 1724. 
 
Iflffc* tt»w>- 
 
 
 776 
 
 FROM ELEUSTS TO ATHENS. 
 
 chap.xvui. description belonged. We no sooner received the information, 
 than we resolved to set off instantly from Eleusis ; and 
 endeavour to accomplish so desirable an object. For the 
 present, therefore, our observations will be principally 
 confined to the subject of this undertaking. 
 
 It has been before stated, that Ibrahim, our Tchohodar, 
 was himself a kinsman of the Governor of Athens ; the very 
 person unto whom an application in this instance was 
 necessary. This man promised all the assistance in his 
 power ; and it was agreed, that the whole management of 
 the affair, as far as it related to the Waiwode, should be left 
 to his discretion. We gave up the design we had formed, of 
 remaining for the present at Eleusis, and set out for Athens. 
 
 A part of the pavement of the Via Sacra is still visible 
 after quitting the site of the Temple of Ceres, and the remains 
 of several monuments appear upon either side of it. The 
 great ruins of the Aqueduct are upon the left. Soon after- 
 wards, close to the road, on the same side of the way, 
 appears an oblong quadrangular base of some fine structure, 
 consisting of large blocks of white marble, neatly fitted 
 together. There are other works of the same kind. Perhaps 
 every one of these might be ascertained, by a careful atten- 
 tion to the description given of the objects in this route by 
 Pausanias l . Soon after leaving Eleusis, the road bears east- 
 ward across the Thriasian Plain, which is marshy towards 
 
 the 
 
 Sudden de- 
 parture for 
 Athens. 
 
 Via Sacra. 
 
 (1; two* ch br 'EXfi/ctva f£ 'ASqywy, rjv 'Atfyyatot koXovoiv o'coV itpdv, k, t, A. 
 Paus. Attica, c, 36. p. 88. ed. Kuhnii. 
 
FROM ELEUSlS TO ATHENS. 
 
 77? 
 
 the sea ; and the remains of the old causeway, consisting 
 of large round stones, overgrown with rushes, along which 
 the annual procession moved from Athens, is conspicuous 
 in many places. Hereabout we crossed the bed of a river 
 almost dry, and saw by the side of it the vestiges of a Temple. 
 Another superb basement appeared in this part of the road, 
 similarly constructed, and of the same materials as that we 
 have just noticed. We also observed the Ruins of another 
 Temple, close to the sea, upon our right ; whereof one column 
 yet remained ; and some of the stones were still standing. 
 This district, lying towards the borders of Attica, in a 
 very remote age constituted the regal territory of Crocon \ 
 But there is a circumstance, as connected with the most 
 antient geography of these regions, that does not seem to 
 have been duly regarded. It was first pointed out by a 
 learned ancestor of the author of these Travels : and as it 
 is of importance in the establishment of an historical fact, 
 namely, the common origin of the Goths and the Greeks, 
 it may be here briefly stated, as deduced from his obser- 
 vations, and founded upon the authorities he has cited 3 : it 
 is this, that the whole of the Eleusinian Plain; together 
 with apart of Attica*, were once included within the limits 
 of Thrace, whose southern frontier extended, as Thucydides 
 
 informs 
 
 CHAP.XVIU. 
 
 Vast extent 
 of Antient 
 Thrace. 
 
 (2) Vid. Pausan. ibid. p.^1. 
 
 (3) See the " Connexion of the Roman, Saxon, and English Coins," &c. by William 
 Clarke, M. A. Lond. 1767. pp. 65, 66, 67. 
 
 (4) Tjji/ pep 'Amicijv oi uerd Ev/x6\7rov QpaKeg ev^cy. Strabon, Geog. lib. vii, 
 VOL. III. 5 G 
 
^*BWP*^ 
 
 \i(' i f. , ^»^i,yC« 
 
 &*$?*? > <«r* , i?T? s^* : !^*,lw•' , >*!&*"* 
 
 T-fm""T*.<Jiwa 
 
 778 
 
 from eleusis to Athens 
 
 chap.xvhi. informs us ', even to the Gulf of Corinth. In the dispute 
 between Eumolpus the Thracian, and Erectheus king of 
 Athens, the former laid claim to Athens - itself, as part of his 
 father's dominions. The capitals of these two princes were 
 not more than fifteen miles distant from each other ; and 
 there was as little difference in their manners as their 
 situation. This appears by the issue of the war, which was 
 so amicably concluded. The terms were, that, for the 
 future, the inhabitants of both cities, Athens and Eleusis, 
 should be considered as one people 3 ; that the religion of 
 Eleusis, the mysteries so long known, and so much revered 
 under that name, should be received at Athens ; the 
 descendants of Eumolpus being entitled to the Priesthood, 
 and the family of Erectheus to the Crown \ 
 
 The uhrti. Two streams of salt water, called Rheti by Pausanias, 
 
 are described by him as the limits between the Eleusinian 
 and the Attic territories. Before we reached them, and 
 nearer to Eleusis, we had passed, as we have stated, the bed 
 of a river whose dry and pebbled channel was almost exhausted 
 of its water. By the side of it we observed the remains of 
 a Temple before mentioned, about an hundred and fifty 
 
 paces 
 
 (1) Thucyd. 1. ii. c. 2Q. p. 100. 
 
 (2) Hygin. c. 46. 
 
 (3) Pausan. lib. i. 'Aro rov (i.e. 1Lv/,i6Xtov) JLupoX7ricai tcaXovvrai nap 
 hQi}vaioi<;. Diog. Laert. in procem. p. 4. Thucyd. p.4g6. Hesych. et Suidas in v. 
 MujuoXiricai, These mysteries were supposed to come originally from Orpheus. 
 'Vuv liLXzvcnviuv rat reXerdi OP*ET2, dvtjp 'Ocpv-rqc, eU rdc 'A.dtfvai tKop,iaiv. 
 Theodorct. Therapeut. " Eleusiniorum sacra mystica Oiu'Heus, natione Thrax, in 
 Athcnas importavit." See also Pausanias. 
 
 (4) Ibid. Clarke's Connexion, &c. p. 66. Lond. 1/67' 
 
 Ufr-SfitMl 
 

 FROM ELEUSIS TO ATHENS. 
 
 779 
 
 smian 
 Cephis&us. 
 
 paces from the road ; and this stream was doubtless the chap.xviii. 
 Eleusinian Cephissus of Pausanias '. As we drew near to the Eieusi 
 Rhcti, the road passes close to the sea ; and here, upon 
 our left hand, we saw a small lake, which owes its origin to saitLakc. 
 a dam that has been constructed close to the beach, buoying 
 up a body of salt water : this water, oozing continually from a 
 sandy stratum, fills the lake, and becomes finally discharged, 
 through two channels, into the Gulph. These appear to have 
 been the ducts to which Pausanias alludes under the appella- 
 tion of the Rheti, which were severally sacred to Ceres and to 
 Proserpine : and there is every reason to believe, that the lake 
 itself is at the least as antient as the time when the Hiera of 
 those Divinities stood upon its borders ; else were it difficult 
 to conceive how the fishes could have been preserved, which 
 the priests alone were permitted to take from the con- 
 secrated flood 6 . It is hardly credible, that a supply of this 
 nature was afforded by any of the shallow streams 
 which might have been found near to this spot, struggling 
 for a passage through their now exhausted channels. 
 There is something remarkable in the natural history of the 
 lake, besides the saline property of its water. Our guides 
 informed us, that petroleum, or, as it is vulgarly called, 
 mineral tar, is often collected upon its surface ; which is 
 extremely probable, owing to the nature of the sand-stone 
 stratum whence the water flows, and to the marshy nature 
 
 of 
 
 (5) Paus. Attic, c.38. p. 92. ed. Kuhnii. 
 
 (6) Aiyuvrai <)£ 01 'PEITOI Kopijc iepol ml ktfaijrpoc dvai' Kai tovq i\dvc i£ 
 >(vtu)v tou; Upzvaiv h(j T iv alpelv fxovoiq. Paus. Attic, c. 37. p. Ql. ed. Kuhiii. 
 
*ff*l 
 
 
 780 
 
 CHAP.XVIIi. 
 
 Defile of 
 Daphne. 
 
 The rock 
 railed Facile. 
 
 FROM ELEUSIS TO ATHENS. 
 
 of the land in its vicinity. Two mills are now turned by the 
 two streams issuing from this lake. After having passed the 
 Rh&ti, we came to a narrow pass, skirting the base of a marble 
 rock toward the shore, and cut out of the solid stone, having 
 the sea close to us upon our right hand. This narrow pass 
 was evidently the point of separation between the two 
 antient kingdoms of Eumolpus and Erectheus \ Hence, 
 turning from the shore towards the left, we entered a 
 narrow valley by a gentle ascent, which is the entrance to 
 the defile of Daphne; and we perceived, that the perpen- 
 dicular face of the rock, upon this side of the road, had 
 been artificially planed, and contained those niches for votive 
 tablets which have been before described in this work. 
 Such appearances are always of importance in the eyes of 
 the literary traveller, because they afford indisputable proofs 
 of the former sanctity of the spot : and although it may be 
 difficult to state precisely what the nature of the Hieron was 
 where the original vows were offered, it will perhaps be easy 
 to explain why these testimonies of Pagan piety distinguish this 
 particular part of the Sacred Way : the niches being situated 
 near to the spot where the first view of Eleusis presented itself 
 to the Athenian devotees, in their annual procession to the 
 city. This seems to have been the rock which is mentioned by 
 Pausanias, under the appellation of Pozcile : in his Journey 
 from Athens, he mentions its occurrence before his arrival 
 
 at 
 
 (l) According to the valuable work of Mr.Hobhouse, it bears the appellation usually 
 bestowed upon such passes, of Kake Scala, — the evil way. See Hothouse's Journey 
 through Albania, &c. p. 373. Lond. 1813. 
 
ggrasiraw& i gg j MEiggaB's'i 
 
 
 FROM ELEUSIS TO ATHENS. 
 
 781 
 
 at the Rheti, and at this extremity of the defile 9 . After this chapxvul 
 we came to a wall, which is supposed to be alluded to 
 by Pausanias as marking the site of a Temple of Fenus 3 ; and T y™^ toi 
 presently, in the very centre of the defile, we noticed 
 a large antient Tomb*, and arrived at the Monastery of JJ°p ast h ery 
 Daphne, whose romantic situation and picturesque appear- 
 ance, in the midst of rocks and overshadowing pines, has been 
 a theme of admiration amongst all travellers. Part of its 
 materials are said to have been derived from the ruins of 
 the Temple of Venus, now mentioned. The Monastery itself 
 seems to occupy the situation assigned by Pausanias to a 
 Hieron, containing the images of Ceres, Proserpine, Minerva, Hieron of 
 
 Apollo. 
 
 and Apollo ; and which had been originally consecrated to 
 the last of these divinities \ We found the building in a 
 ruined state, and altogether abandoned. Our Ambassador 
 had already removed some of the antiquities which the 
 place formerly contained; but we saw some broken remains 
 of Ionic pillars of white marble, and other fragments of archi- 
 tectural decorations, whose workmanship denoted the best 
 age of the Grecian sculpture; and in all the pavements of the 
 Monastery there were pieces of the finest verd-antique breccia, 
 some of which we removed, and sent afterwards to England. 
 
 The 
 
 (2) To YioiKtXov KoKovfitvov vpog, K.r.X. Vid. Pausan. Attic, c. 37. p. 91. ed. 
 Kuhnii. 
 
 (3) Mfra ct tovto 'AQpoSlrtjs vadg ion, nal irpo avrov rti^oc dpyuv \iduv diai 
 u^iov. Pansan. Attic, c. 37- p. 91. ed. Kuhnii. 
 
 (4) Pausanias mentions the rdtyoc ot'Theodectes, of Phaselitas, and Mnesitheus ; and 
 other monuments remarkable for their magnitude and the magnificence of their con- 
 struction. Ibid. p. Q0. 
 
 (5) Ibid. 
 
*,/** 
 
 
 782 
 
 ATTICA. 
 
 cHAP.xviii. The remains of « Theatre are also visible before leaving this 
 viewofAthens defile upon the right hand ; and as the hills opened at the other 
 
 at sun-«et. . 
 
 extremity towards sunset, such a prospect of Athens and of 
 the A thenian Plain, with all the surrounding scenery, burst 
 upon our view, as never has been, nor can be described. It 
 presented from the mouth or gap, facing the city, which 
 divides Corydallus upon the south, now called the Laurel 
 Mountain, from JEgaleon, a projecting part of Mount Parnes 
 upon the north ', immediately before descending into the 
 extensive olive-plantations which cover all this side of the 
 plain, upon the banks of the Cephissus. There is no spot 
 whence Athens may be seen that can compare with this point 
 of view ; and if, after visiting the city, any one should leave 
 it without coming to this eminence to enjoy the prospect 
 here afforded, he will have formed a very inadequate con- 
 ception of its unspeakable grandeur ; for all that Nature and 
 Art, by every marvellous combination of vast and splendid 
 objects, can possibly exhibit, aided by the most surprising 
 effect of colour, light, and shade, is here presented to the 
 spectator. The wretched representations made of the scenes 
 in Greece, even by the best designs yet published in books 
 of travels, have often been a subject of regret among 
 those who have witnessed its extraordinary beauties ; and, 
 in the list of them, perhaps few may be considered as inferior 
 to the numerous delineations which have appeared of this 
 extraordinary city. But with such a spectacle before his 
 
 eyes 
 
 (1) See Hobhouse's " Journey through Albania," &c. pp.370, 371. Lond. 1813. 
 
A T T 1 C A. 
 
 783 
 
 eyes as this now alluded to, how deeply does the traveller chap .xviii, 
 deplore, that the impression is not only transitory as far as he 
 is concerned in its enjoyment, but that it is utterly incapable 
 of being transmitted to the minds of others. With 
 such reflections, we reluctantly quitted the spot ; and, 
 passing downwards to the plain, crossed the Cephissus, and Athenian 
 
 Cephissus. 
 
 entered the olive-groves extending towards our left over the 
 
 site of the Academy. If we may trust the account given siteofthe 
 
 Academy. 
 
 us by our Tc/whodar, there are not less than forty thousand, 
 of these trees ; the largest and finest of the kind we 
 had seen in Greece 2 . The air here is very unwholesome 
 during the summer months, owing to the humidity of the 
 soil, and perhaps principally to its not being properly 
 drained. After descending from the defile of Daphne, Return to 
 
 ° x Athens. 
 
 we observed a large Tomb upon our left ; and before 
 arriving at the site of the Sacred Gate, there are two 
 other Tumuli ; and the remains of an Aqueduct may be 
 observed, extending in the direction of the Academy. 
 The Tombs are mentioned by Pausa?iias, in his journey to 
 Eleusis. 
 
 In the evening we arrived once more in Athens ; and 
 calling upon our former companion, Lusieri, were hailed 
 by him with the first news of peace between France 
 and England ; — a joyful intelligence for us, as we instantly 
 
 determined 
 
 ■ 
 
 (2) The most beautiful wood perhaps ever seen in England is that of Athenian Olive, 
 when polished. A table made of this wood is in the possession of the Earl of Egremont. 
 It has been cut from some logs of the olive-tree, intended as fuel in Athens, which the 
 author's brother, the late Captain Clarke of the Braakel, brought to this country. 
 

 
 .'Etf'WW 
 
 784 
 
 CHAP.XVI1I. 
 
 Negotiation 
 with the 
 TVaiwode- 
 
 ATTICA. 
 
 determined to pass through France in our journey home. 
 He also told us of the valuable acquisitions, in vases, gems, 
 and medals, which he had made in JEgina, after we had 
 left him upon that island. 
 
 The next morning our Tchohodar waited upon his relation 
 the Waiwode, and communicated to him the subject of our 
 wishes respecting the Eleusinian marble. After some 
 deliberation, the Governor acceded to our request; but 
 upon the express condition, that we would obtain for him 
 a small English telescope belonging to Signor Lusieri. 
 This request opposed a very serious obstacle to our views ; 
 because it became necessary to divulge the secret of our 
 undertaking, to a person indeed in whom we could confide, 
 but who was at the moment actually employed in col- 
 lecting every thing of this kind for our Ambassador ; who 
 had prohibited the removal of any article of antient sculpture 
 on the part of his countrymen, excepting into his own 
 warehouses, as an addition to the immense Collection he 
 was then forming, in the name, and with the power, of 
 the British Nation. Yet was there no time to be lost : the 
 Waiwode might soon mention the matter himself to an 
 intriguing Consul, who paid him a daily visit; and then, 
 (although the Statue was the Waiwode s property, and of 
 course the right to dispose of it belonged exclusively to 
 him) we had reason to know that our project would be in- 
 stantly frustrated. Accordingly, we made Lusieri acquainted 
 with the whole affair ; and our generous friend, disdaining 
 every unworthy consideration, not only resigned the 
 telescope upon our promise of sending him another from 
 
 England, 
 
ATHE N S. 785 
 
 England ', but very kindly undertook to present it himself chap.xvjii. 
 to the Waiwode, and persuade him to observe silence with 
 the Consul respecting the measures we were then pursuing. 
 The desired firman was therefore obtained. To complete 
 the whole, it was now necessary to apply to the Consul 
 himself, for the use of the ferry-boat plying between 
 Salamis and the main land ; as the only means of conveying 
 this enormous piece of marble to the Pirceeus, if we 
 should be so fortunate as to succeed in our endeavours of 
 moving it from its place towards the shore. Such an appli- 
 cation, as it might be expected, excited the Consul's curiosity 
 to the highest degree : but after many questions, as to 
 the object for which the boat was required, we succeeded 
 in lulling his suspicions ; or, if he had any notion of our 
 intention, he believed that the removal of the Statue, which 
 had often been attempted before, would baffle every exertion 
 that we could make ; and a messenger was despatched to 
 put the boat under our orders. All being now ready, we 
 set out again for Eleusis : and perhaps a further narrative 
 of the means used by private individuals, unaided by 
 diplomatic power or patronage, to procure for the University 
 of which they are members this interesting monument of 
 the Arts and Mythology of Greece, although a part of it 
 has been already before the public, may not be deemed an 
 unwelcome addition to this volume. 
 
 The 
 
 (l) We had the satisfaction of hearing that he has since received it safe. It was 
 a very fine telescope, by Ramsden : and it was conveyed to him by the author's friend, 
 Mr. Walpole, the Extracts from whose Manuscript Journal appear in this Work. 
 
 VOL. III. 5 H 
 
?+rVj<xrf* 
 
 *-.■■. "rv: <t*s -[•**,'■ 
 
 786 
 
 HELLAS. 
 
 cHAP. xvni. Xhe difficulties to be encountered were not trivial : we 
 
 Method carried with us from Athens but few implements : a 
 
 devised for 
 
 removing the rope of twisted herbs, and some large nails, were all that 
 
 Statue of . tit • 
 
 Ceres. the city afforded, as likely to aid the operation. Neither 
 
 a wheeled carriage, nor blocks, nor pulleys, nor even a 
 saw, could be procured. Fortunately, we found at Eleusis 
 several long poles, an axe, and a small saw about six inches 
 in length, such as cutlers sometimes make to shut into the 
 handle of a pocket knife. With these we began the work. 
 The stoutest of the poles were cut, and pieces were nailed 
 in a triangular form, having transverse beams at the vertex 
 and base. Weak as our machine was, it acquired considerable 
 strength by the weight of the Statue, when placed upon the 
 transverse beams. With the remainder of the poles were 
 made rollers, over which the triangular frame might move. 
 The rope was then fastened to each extremity of the 
 transverse beams. This simple contrivance succeeded, when 
 perhaps more complicate machinery might have failed : and 
 a mass of marble weighing near two tons was moved over 
 the brow of the hill or Acropolis of Eleusis, and from thence 
 to the sea, in about nine hours. 
 
 An hundred peasants were collected from the village 
 and neighbourhood of Eleusis, and near fifty boys. The 
 peasants were ranged, forty on each side, to work at the 
 ropes ; some being employed, with levers, to raise the 
 machine, when rocks or large stones opposed its progress. 
 The boys who were not strong enough to work at the ropes 
 and levers, were engaged in taking up the rollers as fast as the 
 machine left them, and in placing them again in the front. 
 
 But 
 
E L E U S I S. 
 
 787 
 
 But the superstition of the inhabitants of Eleusis, chap^xvih. 
 respecting an idol which they all regarded as the protectress Difficulties 
 of their fields, was not the least obstacle to be overcome. 
 In the evening, soon after our arrival with the firman, an 
 accident happened which had nearly put an end to the 
 undertaking. While the inhabitants were conversing with 
 the Tchohodar, as to the means of its removal, an ox, loosed 
 from its yoke, came and placed itself before the Statue ; 
 and, after butting with its horns for some time against the 
 marble, ran off with considerable speed, bellowing, into the 
 Plain of Eleusis. Instantly a general murmur prevailed ; 
 and several women joining in the clamour, it was with 
 difficulty any proposal could be made. " They had been 
 always," they said, "famous for their com ; and the fertility 
 of the land would cease when the Statue was removed." 
 Such were exactly the words of Cicero with respect to the 
 Sicilians, when Verres removed the Statue of Ceres : — 
 " Quod, Cerere violata, omnes cultus fructusque 
 Cereris in his locis interiisse arbitrantur." l It 
 was late at night before these scruples were removed. 
 On the following morning, November the twenty-second, 
 the boat arrived from Salamis, attended by four monks, who 
 rendered us all the service in their power, but they seemed 
 
 perfectly 
 
 (1) Cicero in Verr. lib.W. c. 51. The circumstances which attended the removal 
 of the Statues of Ceres and Triptolemus from the Temple at Enna, by Verres, were 
 very similar to those which opposed themselves to our undertaking. — " His pulchritudo 
 periculo, amplitudo saluti fuit, quod eorum demolitio, atque asportatio, perdijftcilis 
 videbatur." Vid. lib. iv. c. 4g. 
 
■MBBB 
 
 788 HELLAS. 
 
 chap. xviii. perfectly panic-struck when we told them that it was our 
 intention to send the Statue in their vessel to the Pirceeus ; 
 and betrayed the helplessness of infants when persuaded to 
 join in the labour. The people had assembled, and stood 
 around the Statue ; but no one among them ventured to begin 
 the work. They believed that the arm of any person would 
 fall off who should dare to touch the marble, or to disturb 
 its position. Upon festival days they had been accustomed 
 to place before it a burning lamp. Presently, however, the 
 Priest of Eleusis, partly induced by entreaty, and partly ter- 
 rified by the menaces of the Tchohodar , put on his canonical 
 vestments, as for a ceremony of high mass, and, descending 
 into the hollow where the Statue remained upright, after 
 the rubbish around it had been taken away, gave the first 
 blow with a pickaxe for the removal of the soil, that 
 the people might be convinced no calamity would befal the 
 labourers. The work then went on briskly enough : already 
 the immense mass of marble began to incline from its 
 perpendicular ; and the triangular frame was placed in 
 such a situation, that, as the Statue fell, it came gra- 
 dually upon the transverse beams. The rope was then cut, 
 and fastened as traces ; one half of it upon either side ; 
 and our machine, supported by w r ooden rollers, was easily 
 made to move. In this manner, at mid-day, it had reached 
 the brow of the hill above the old port ; whence the descent 
 towards the shore, although among ruins, and obstructed 
 by large stones, was more easy. 
 
 New difficulties now occurred. It was found that the 
 water near to the shore was too shallow to admit the approach 
 
 of 
 

 ELEUSIS. 
 
 789 
 
 of the boat from Sal amis, for the conveyance of the Statue chap.xvhi 
 
 on board ; and the old quay of Eleusis, which consisted 
 
 of immense blocks of marble stretching out into deeper 
 
 water, was in such a ruined state, that several wide chasms 
 
 appeared, through which the water flowed. Across these 
 
 chasms it would be necessary to construct temporary bridges, 
 
 for w r hich timber would be required ; and even then the 
 
 boat could not be brought close enough to the extremity 
 
 of the quay to receive the Statue. Here the whole of our 
 
 project seemed likely to meet with its termination ; for 
 
 it was quite impossible, without any mechanical aid, to 
 
 raise a mass of marble weighing nearly two tons, so as to 
 
 convey it into the boat. At this critical moment, when we 
 
 were preparing to abandon the undertaking, a large Casiot 
 
 vessel made her appearance, sailing between Salamis and the 
 
 Eleusinian coast. We instantly pushed off in the boat, and 
 
 hailed her ; and the Captain consenting to come on shore, 
 
 we not only hired his ship to take the Statue to Smyrna, but 
 
 also engaged the assistance of his crew, with their boats and 
 
 rigging, to assist in its removal. These men worked with 
 
 spirit and skill ; and made the rest of the operation a mere 
 
 amusement. At sun-set, we saw the Statue stationed at the 
 
 very utmost extremity of the pier-head. 
 
 Early on the following day, November the twenty-third, 
 two boats belonging to the vessel, and the Salamis ferry- 
 boat, were placed alongside of each other, between the 
 ship and the pier ; and planks were laid across, so as to 
 form a kind of stage, upon which the Casiot sailors might 
 work the blocks and ropes. A small cable was also warped 
 
 round 
 
 Success of the 
 undertaking. 
 
{^"■a?*.- 
 
 ES3 Oil >«<^>UHmD HimgHHHHMHHHH 
 
 CHAP.XVIII. 
 
 Further 
 Account of 
 Eleusis. 
 
 
 790 HELLAS. 
 
 round the Statue ; and twelve blocks being brought to 
 act all at once upon it, the Goddess was raised almost to 
 the yard-arm ; whence, after remaining suspended a short 
 time, she was lowered into the hold ; and the Eleusinians 
 taking leave of her l , the vessel sailed for Smyrna. Having 
 thus ended the narrative of our adventure, we may now 
 conclude our observations concerning the Ruins of Eleusis. 
 These have been since surveyed with so much attention by 
 other travellers, that we shall merely state such things as 
 may perhaps have escaped their notice. 
 Long waiis. It has been supposed, that the " Long Walls" of Athens, 
 
 which extended from the Acropolis to the sea, and inclosed 
 the Pirceeus, were a peculiar feature of the Athenian city : 
 but this is by no means true. Such a method of connecting 
 the harbours with the citadels of Greece, was a very general 
 characteristic of the manners of the Grecian people, in all 
 places where the Acropolis was not actually situated upon 
 the shore. This, for example, was the case at Corinth: 
 it may also be remarked at Megara, and at Eleusis. 
 The Acropolis of Eleusis is half a mile distant from the 
 harbour. Between the base of the hill upon which the 
 Citadel stood, and the sea, this distance is occupied by 
 a small plain ; and from the number of ruined foun- 
 dations, the vestiges of temples, and of other Hiera, all 
 over this plain towards the sea, we were inclined to differ 
 
 from 
 
 (l) They predicted the wreck of the ship which should convey it : and it is a curious 
 circumstance, that their augury was completely fulfilled, in the loss of the Princessa 
 merchantman, off Beachy Head, having the Statue on board. 
 
E L E U S I S. 
 
 791 
 
 from Wheler, and from every other traveller, by considering 
 this piece of land as the identical spot called Rharium; 
 where, according to the antient traditions of Eleusis, corn 
 was first sown. The severe illness with which Triptolemus 
 was afflicted, and from which he was restored to health by 
 Ceres, is still liable to attack all who expose themselves to 
 the malaria now covering this part of the Eleusinian terri- 
 tory: and the evil might again be removed, as it then was, by 
 subjecting the same spot once more to the labours of agricul- 
 ture ; carefully cleansing and draining the soil. This being 
 the Rharian plain ; the great plain of Eleusis, upon the other 
 side of the Acropolis, towards the west, is consequently the 
 Thriasian. The Rharian plain being small, and between the 
 Citadel and the sea, was in all probability occupied, in antient 
 times, by the city of Eleusis, and by many of its sacred 
 buildings. The remains of the tivo long Walls, which 
 extended from the Citadel to the sea, and inclosed the port, 
 are yet visible ; and within this inclosure were perhaps the 
 temples of Triptolemus and of Neptune 11 . The Area and 
 Altar of Triptolemus were undoubtedly within the Rharian 
 plain 3 . The temple of Diana Propylcea was, of course, as 
 its name implies, the Holy Gate of the Citadel ; and probably 
 it stood upon or near to the spot which is now occupied 
 by a small Church or Chapel upon the brow of the hill. 
 That of Ceres, built during the administration of Pericles, 
 
 by 
 
 CHAP.XV1II. 
 
 Of the 
 Rharian and 
 Thriasian 
 Plains. 
 
 Temples of 
 Triptolemus, 
 of Neptune, 
 
 and of Diana 
 P ropy la a. 
 
 Temple of 
 Ceres. 
 
 (2) Vid. Pausaniae Attic, c. 38. pp. Q2, Q3. ed. Kuhnil 
 
 (3) To Se irediov to 'Paptov, k. t. \. 'Evravda "AAft2 KaXov/itvi] TPIIITOAEMOT, 
 ml BftMOS fo'iKwrai. Ibid. p. 93. 
 
w.t-t* z&zw ^m 
 
 I J/'iLi'V- .■^~'T/.i''"-Ay. ; - 1 F:U''-;ro^^»-^4«iJW^^S^^M^«Mh«^V^*^^ T-'W^piij", 
 
 792 
 
 HELLAS. 
 
 Port of 
 Eleusis, 
 
 cHAP.xviH. by Ictinus the architect of the Parthenon at Athens, and 
 mentioned by Plutarch ', by Strabo \ and by Vitruvuis \ was 
 perhaps destroyed before the invasion of Alaric, at the end 
 of the fourth century ; and even before the time of Pausanias 
 in the second; as it is not mentioned by him. But as Phidias 
 presided over all the artists employed to complete it 4 , and the 
 marble of Mount Pentelicus was employed in its construction, 
 it is easily to be recognised in those Ruins among which the 
 Statue was discovered ; an area or pavement, leading to it, 
 being of Pentelican marble, and still existing, at the com- 
 mencement of the Thriasian plain, upon the western side of the 
 Acropolis. The antient port of Eleusis was entirely artificial ; 
 being inclosed by a semicircular pier of white marble. Going to 
 this port from the modern village (which does not contain forty 
 houses), along the remains of the northern wall, you come to 
 the Ruins of another large Temple, consisting of prodigious 
 masses of stone and marble. Here then was one of the 
 temples before mentioned ; perhaps that of Neptune, being so 
 near to the port. At a distance to the right, in what we have 
 considered as the Rharian plain, is another considerable Ruin, 
 a part whereof is yet standing ; and the foundations of other 
 structures may be discerned. All this plain, between the 
 Acropolis and the sea, is covered with the fragments of 
 former works ; and upon this side was the Theatre ; the 
 
 form 
 
 (1) Plutarch, in Pericl. vol.1, p. 15g. 
 
 (2) Strabon. Geog. lib. ix. 
 
 (3) Vitruv. in Praefat. 
 
 (4) TldvTa Is heiTTE nal irdvruv iniaKonoc r\v avTf <I>EIAIA2. Plutarch, in Pericl. 
 
 Antient 
 Theatre. 
 
RETURN TO ATHENS. 
 
 793 
 
 form of which may be distinctly traced upon the slope of chap.xviii. 
 
 the hill, near the southern wall leading to the sea. Upon 
 
 the summit of the Acropolis are the vestiges of the Citadel ; Acropolis. 
 
 also some excavations, which were once used as cisterns, 
 
 similar to those of other cities in the Peloponnesus. 
 
 Looking down upon the great Thriasian plain from the top 
 
 of this rock (whose shape is an oblong parallelogram, lying 
 
 nearly parallel to the shore), the back of the spectator being 
 
 towards the sea, the remains of the Temple of Ceres appear 
 
 at the foot of the north-west angle; and to the left of this, 
 
 in the road to Megara, exactly as it is described by Pausanias, 
 
 in the very beginning of the route, is the Well called by 
 
 him b clv&ivov ; close to the foundation of some Hieron or 
 
 Temple. A little farther towards the left lies the colossal 
 
 marble Torso of a Lion, or of a Sphinx, which was before 
 
 noticed in our arrival at Eleusis from Megara. 
 
 Having thus amply gratified our curiosity with regard Return to 
 
 r i • lii • Athens. 
 
 to the remains of this remarkable city, and accomplished 
 the object of our wishes by the removal of the Statue of 
 Ceres, we returned in high spirits to Athens, to prepare 
 for a journey through Bceotia, Phocis, Thessaly, Pieria, 
 Macedonia, and Thrace, to Constantinople. 
 
 (5) 'Eirepa Bt oBdg c£ 'EXti/oii/oc rpSi Mcyapa dyei. TavTi/v cpyopcvoic rrjv 6S6i>, 
 tppiap early avQivov Ka\ovp.tvov. Pausan. Attica, c. 39. p. 94. ed. Kuhnii. 
 
 VOL. III. 
 
 5 I 
 
'■Ci^^i^tS.'vrS-'-'T^/'^ri !-Y'?(i 
 
 ^^m v v> £,-j^4. ^m 
 
 704 
 
 ADDITIONAL NOTES 
 
 SECOND SECTION OF PART THE SECOND. 
 
 Page 4, line 4. " Although his death did not immediately follow."] — He was 
 afterwards visited by Colonel Squire, in company with Major Leake of the Artillery, and 
 Mr. Hamilton. The last of these gentlemen, it seems, as private secretary of the Earl 
 of Elgin, had some diplomatic arrangements to make with Djezzar, and wished to 
 gain information with respect to the commerce and condition of Syria. These circum- 
 stances are related in Colonel Squire's MS. Journal. The party sailed from Alexandria 
 on Monday, April the 5th, 1802 } and came to anchor off the town of Caifta on the 
 morning of April the 9th. This part of Colonel Squire's Journal is too interesting to 
 be omitted, although the author did not receive it until many sheets of this Section of 
 his Work had been printed. For the present edition, therefore, it has been inserted 
 immediately after the Additional Notes. It begins with their visit to the Sheik of 
 Caiffa. 
 
 P. 8. 1. 13. " As at that time the model of every Christian sanctuary was derived from 
 the Holy Land, and generally from the church of the Holy Sepulchre, where the pointed 
 style may yet be discerned in the original covering of the Sepulchre itself"'] — The curious 
 work of Bernardino, " Trattato delle Piante et Immagini de sacri Edifixi di Terra 
 Santa," published at Florence in lG20, gives the rules and exact dimensions for the 
 construction of sanctuaries after the model of the Holy Sepulchre, which, at the time 
 of Bernardino's visit to Jerusalem, was entirely surrounded with pointed arches. The 
 pointed arches of the Mikias, in the Isle of Rhouda, near Cairo, are of the ninth century, 
 as will be proved in a subsequent Note. Many other instances might be adduced to 
 prove that the pointed style in architecture existed in all the oldest Saracenic structures ; 
 but the Eastern origin of the pointed arch has been so satisfactorily demonstrated by 
 Whittington, (Hist. Surv. of Ecclesiast. Antiq. &c.) by Haggitt, (Lett, on Gothic 
 Architect.) by Kerrich, (Observ. on the Churches of Italy, Archceol. vol. XVI.) and 
 by Hawkins, (Hist, of the Orig. &c. of Gothic Architecture,) that an obstinate denial 
 of the fact is merely the struggle of ignorance against the acknowledgment of error. 
 
 • P. 30. 1. 12. "A basket lined perhaps with close matting, or leather."] — Those baskets 
 arc made capable of containing water without lining. " The Mahrea Arabs have the 
 art of making wicker baskets of so close a texture, that they carry in them, milk, water,, 
 and bouza." See Note to p. I89 of Browne's Travels, Lond. 1 799. 
 
ADDITIONAL NOTES. 
 
 P. 55. 1.19. "At this hour we often resorted to the Isle of Rhonda."'} — The author omitted 
 to notice the visit he made to the Mikias, or Nilometer, upon this island, in company 
 with Mr. Hammer. As the interior of this building was long concealed from the 
 observation of Europeans, it may be proper to mention, that the roof is supported by 
 pointed arches erected early in the ninth century. Mr. Hammer copied some Cuphic 
 inscriptions upon the walls, stating, that the building was constructed by the Caliph 
 Al-Mamoun, in the year 21 1 of the Hegira, answering to the year 833 of our sera. 
 The same fact is attested by the observations of Le Pere, as read to the French Institute 
 at Cairo, January the 11th, 1799. {V°y- Decade Egyptienne, torn. II. p. 278. au Kaire, 
 An viii de la Republique.) For the rest, the building has been recently so often 
 described, that it was not thought necessary to give a particular account of it. 
 
 P. 143. 1. 9. " This has been often related before."] — Diodorus particularly alludes to 
 the same thing. " But this work," says he, " is not only worthy of praise on account 
 of its magnitude, but wonderful for the skill displayed, and remarkable for the nature 
 of the stone ; since that in so much vastness there was not a fissure nor a blemish 
 visible." To cc 'tpyov rovro fxtj p6vov eivat Kara to fiiytOos ctjro^o^j/c afyov, 
 dWd Kal r?/ tc\ vr\ duvp-aardv, ical rr\ rov Xidov (pvirei ctdipopov, ok dv iv rtf\it:ovrM 
 usyidet /utjre ciatyvdSoij jx^te KtjXiBos /nijcefxid^ dcupovp^yrj?. Diod. Sic. lib. i.e. 47- 
 p. 57. ed. IVesselingii. Amst. 1746. 
 
 P. 146. 1.5. "As to the age of this Inscription, the reader must determine for 
 himself"'] — At the same time it may be proper to add, that it bears the characteristic 
 Of 9 high antiquity in the manner of applying the writing. There is a passage in the Book 
 of Deuteronomy which proves that the custom of writing upon plaister existed in the 
 fifteenth century before the Christian aera. The Israelites are thus instructed to write the 
 Law ; and it is very probable that Moses had learned the art from the Egyptians. " Thou 
 
 SHALT SET THEE UP GREAT STONES, AND PLAISTER THEM WITH PLAISTER : AND 
 THOU SHALT WRITE UPON THEM ALL THE WORDS OF THE LAW. DeUt. XXvii. 2, 3. 
 
 P. 263. 1.2. " The epithet Atoe was consequently appropriate."] — The Bishop of 
 Clogher, in his Essay on the " Origin of Hieroglyphics, and on the Heathen Mythology," 
 p. 116. Lond. 1/53. has the following observation. " In Greek, the word A?oc signi- 
 fies the same as the word Divus among the Latins ; that is, a divine person. 
 
 P. 227. 1. 16. " From the time ofRuffinus, of Socrates, and of Sozomen, this type has 
 occasionally exercised the ingenuity and the erudition of the most learned scholars."] — It is 
 the jewel of the Royal Arch among Freemasons, and is expressed in this manner, j-L| 
 a sign consisting of three Taus joined by their feet at right angles ; thus completing the 
 monogram of Thoth, or Taaut, the symbolical and mystic name of hidden wisdom and 
 of the Supreme Being among the antient Egyptians 5 the 0EOS of the Greeks. 
 " Numen illud," says Jablonski, (Panth. JEgypt. torn. III. p. 170. Francof. 1752.) 
 " erat ipse Phthas, Vulcanus iEgyptiorum, Spiritus infinitus, rerum omnium creator 
 " et conservator, ipsorumque Deorum pater ac princeps." It is amusing to trace the 
 various modifications by which this type of hidden wisdom is expressed. Sometimes, as 
 
 the 
 
 7.95 
 

 •y^H-i/ti" 
 
 
 796* 
 
 ADDITIONAL NOTES. 
 
 the sun in the lower hemisphere, (See Jablonski, torn. I. p. 235.) it appears in hiero- 
 glyphic writing under this sign, ^XX^ At other times k was written O, and hence 
 we see clearly what is meant by an antient patera with a knob in the bottom of it. 
 
 Its other principal varieties were, -£jl £f T T* T M' U P on Gree k medals 
 we find the last monogram written |— J • However, as all the sacred mysteries seem 
 to owe their origin to those sources whence the human race derived the means of 
 subsistence, the following remarks of the Bishop of Clogher may, with reference to an 
 instrument in agriculture, simply explain all that was intended by the earliest represen- 
 tations of this symbol. " As to the Crux ansata, (says he) which hath so much 
 puzzled the learned world, &c. it is no more than a setting-stick for planting roots 
 and larger seeds." See Origin of Hieroglyphics, p. 121. Lond. 1753. 
 
 P. 443. 1. 3, 4. " An antient and memorable lav;," &c] — The same law is in ./Elian, 
 lib. iii. cap. 37- 
 
 P. 450. 1.13. " We found fifteen columns yet standing.""] — The Sunian Temple has been 
 recently visited by the Rev. G. C. Renouard, Chaplain to the British Factory at Smyrna. 
 This gentleman has communicated the following notices concerning it, in a Letter to 
 the author : 
 
 " There are now standing, on the south-east side, 
 
 On the north side ------ 
 
 On the north-west side - 
 
 Total 
 
 " Length of the Temple from n.w. to s.e. 
 
 Breadth 
 
 Height of columns from base to cornice 
 Distance of columns from centre to centre 
 Circumference at two feet from base 
 The same gentleman has transmitted to the author the following beautiful Inscription, 
 recently discovered in Samos. It relates to a woman of the name of Tyhinna, who 
 died at the age of twenty-seven. 
 
 'H ytvtn Bdfyj Tt Kal iv fxovanm Tvptvva 
 
 ''E£ovoc, v wdons aicpa tyipovo dptrty:, 
 
 'YLvvedfias rptaadtj trtuv frjaatra, roxsvtriv 
 
 \vGT)')voi<; tXtrrov cdicpva kui arovavas. 
 
 ITa<, ydp, ipov (pdtfxh'tjc, \npor, ^6/nor ovte yap aurt} 
 
 A-HTTOfXCU, OVT c\t7T0V (jkaOTOV dvOf^oplvn. 
 
 'Avrt Be irarptgov koX v\pop6(j>oto ptXddpou, 
 
 Attrrj Tovfiov tvei aufiu Xa^ovaa irirpn. 
 Et c yp> evtrsfliov baio<; \6yor, oihror riV oikos 
 
 Ov 'fide, tp.ov (pdifxiytfi;, raioh' tvi"^ypat ru^ac:. 
 
 9 
 
 columns. 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 15 
 
 
 72 
 
 feet 
 
 
 45 
 
 
 
 23 
 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 
 9 
 
 . 104 
 
 inches." 
 
■ 
 
 ADDITIONAL NOTES. 
 
 P. 473. 1. 3 of Note. " For the purest Greek is not spoken at Athens."] — The greatest 
 proof, perhaps, of plagiarism that can be adduced, is one of this nature j shewing, that even 
 the eri-ors of an author have been transcribed. If either Wheler or his companion had 
 given themselves the trouble to consult the authors cited by Meursius, they would 
 have found the very opposite of their assertion expressly stated ; that, of above seventy 
 dialects now remaining in Modern Greece, the Athenian, instead of being the purest, 
 is the most corrupted, and the worst. Tlepl cc ruv li<CkU~Mv, t'i dv kui Eiirotfii, 
 7ro\\(ov ovtrav, kui ^tacpopoiy, threp tmv cjlco^itjKOvra ; tovtuv 0' ciira^ur, ?/ ro>y 
 'AOrfvaiav ^tipirrrt). (Fid. Epist. Sim. Calasilcc, ad Mart. Crus. script, anno 1578.) 
 And Theodosius Zygomalas, in his Letter to the same person, says, speaking of the 
 Greek language in Athens, 'WuiXcov cc fidpfiapoc, iariv >/ ruv Adtjvuiuv >j -u, ?\v 
 ore v7Ti\pyjv, dp'iVTTf Civ tic, si emtjj KaraBtdfierpov. rn 7rd\ai 3 <>i'^ dv dp,dproi. 
 Meursii for tuna Attica, p. 113. L.Bat. 1(322. 
 
 P. 494. last line. " The hat was intended as a distinguishing token."] — It is 
 still so considered at Athens. Guilletiere, in giving an account of the Vecchiados or 
 Elders, selected out of the principal Christian families, forming a part of the jurisdiction 
 of the city, says they are distinguished from the other citizens by wearing " little hats." 
 These are his words : — " Les Vecchiados portent de petits chapeaux, pour les distinguer 
 des autres habitans." Voyage d'Athenes, p. 15Q. Paris, l0'/5. 
 
 P. 500. 1.11. " The most admirable specimens of the art of sculpture."'] — 
 Mr. Cripps has preserved, in his MS. Journal, a note, dictated by Lusieri, relative 
 to a very curious discovery made by that artist with regard to the sculptured ornaments 
 of the Erectheum. The author also well remembers its being pointed out to him by the 
 same person upon the spot. Lusieri found among the most delicate intertexture of the 
 wreaths and foliage, small brass nails, and bits of antique glass, which had been fastened 
 on to heighten the general delicacy and exquisite finishing of the work. This circum- 
 stance has been noticed by no other traveller. Perhaps, according to our notions of 
 taste, as founded upon the Grecian school, these works appear more beautiful in their 
 present nakedness than they would have done if we had beheld them as they were 
 originally finished, when they were painted and gilded, and studded with glass beads, 
 or invested with other extraneous ornament. 
 
 797 
 
 
 P. 5O9. I. 16. " By the word Theatre the Antients intended the whole body of the 
 edifice," See] — Plutarch considers ®iarpov to be derived from 0£oV ; because, before 
 theatres were built, the Chorus sang the praises of their Gods, and the commendation 
 of illustrious men. 
 
KZ**W ■ M ifr ■ 
 
 
I i - I Hj 1 i 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 799 
 
 N°I. 
 
 EXTRACT from COLONEL SQUIREV MS. JOURNAL 
 
 GIVING AN ACCOUNT OF CAIFFA, ACRE, &c. AND OF HIS 
 INTERVIEWS WITH DJEZZAR PASHA. 
 
 " At noon (April gfh, 1802,) we went on shore, and endeavoured to see the Sheik 
 (Governor) of Caiffa. At this moment we could not see him; for the day (Friday) 
 being the Mahometan Sabbath, he was engaged at the Mosque. In the interval we 
 proposed to make a small tour without the town ; but we were told that the gates were 
 then shut, and that they would not be opened until the prayers at the Mosque were 
 ended : this, as it appears, is a custom in many parts of the East ; for they fear that 
 while the Mussulmen are engaged in the duties of their religion, the Christians may 
 enter secretly and take the place by surprise : — indeed, they have a tradition to this 
 effect. After the noon- prayer was concluded, we had an audience of the Sheik in a 
 miserable smoked chamber ; the key of which, alter a great search and inquiry, was 
 with some difficulty procured. He regaled us with coffee; and as there was only one 
 extra pipe for the accommodation of his guests, it was passed from one person to another ; 
 and we smoked alternately. During our conference, an unfortunate sivallow which 
 had taken up its abode in the Sheik's mansion was constantly hovering over our heads 1 . 
 In the course of conversation, the Sheik observed, that he was born near England, as he 
 was a native ot Algiers: he alluded to our fortress of Gibraltar ; for the Turks consider all 
 our foreign possessions as England. Ismael Pasha, a respectable Turk, declared he had 
 been in England, because he had once visited Gibraltar. After coffee and pipes, we pro- 
 ceeded towards Mount Carmel. This mountain, which may perhaps be two hundred feet 
 
 above 
 
 (1) For the universality of the superstition with regard to the swallow, the Reader is requested 
 to refer to p. 547, and Note, of Part I. of these Travels, second edit. : also to v. 149 of the Electra 
 of Sophocles, where the same bird is called A'« hy^s- See the end of Chap. xvi. of this section 
 of Part II. 
 
i^a.WS-Sijri: 
 
 Jl~/ 1 «»T> 
 
 IB ■ mNk! 
 
 800 
 
 APPENDIX, N° I. 
 
 above the level of the sea, is covered with a variety of shrubs and aromatic plants, which 
 may render the air as wholesome as it is fragrant and agreeable : the ascent was by a 
 slope; and this, although now covered with weeds and brambles, appears to have been 
 formerly a regular road to the Convent on its summit. In the beginning of the ascent, 
 we observed a sort of grotto excavated in the rock. On the point immediately above 
 the sea, are the remains of a well-built Monastery, which, since the appearance of the 
 French in these countries, has been entirely destroyed by the Turks. Below this there 
 is a smaller Convent. It is inhabited by a Turk, and its church has been converted 
 into a mosque : it is excavated from out of the solid rock ; being about fifty feet long, 
 twenty-five feet wide, and twenty feet in height. On our return to CuiJJ'a along the 
 sea-shore, at the foot of the mountain, we observed a range of Catacombs in the rock, 
 which had probably been the burying-place of an antient town in the neighbourhood : 
 on the floor of these Catacombs were cavities for the reception of bodies. Near 
 this place is a tower of masonry, with five embrasures in the lower part for the 
 defence of the anchorage : at present, no guns are mounted there. 
 
 " Caijfa itself is a miserable village, close to the sea-side, and opposite to Acre : it is 
 of an oblong figure; its longest side, parallel to the sea, being about two hundred yards ; 
 and its shortest, one hundred and fifty yards in length. It is completely inclosed by a 
 stone wall about fifteen feet high, with square towers at the angles. On a small eminence 
 immediately above the town, and completely commanding it, is a square tower, which, 
 as well as the towers of Caifl'a itself, has been dismantled of its guns by the Pasha of 
 Acre, since the arrival of the French in Syria. From the summit of Mount Carmel the 
 view of the Bav of Caijfa was picturesque in the extreme. On the opposite side, was 
 Acre ; and beyond, the towering heights of the Anti- Lebanon, with a small chain of 
 mountains intervening, which seemed to retire and lose themselves in the interior of 
 the country. Bordering on the bay appeared an extensive plain, with the River Kishon 
 meandering through the middle of it. From the root of the Convent on the summit 
 of Mount Carmel, Acre bore n. e. by n. distant seven miles ; Mount Saphet, e. and 
 by n. distant fifteen miles; a town on a projecting point on the coast, s. s. w. distant 
 four miles. Mount Carmel consists of hard limestone, varied sometimes by thin strata 
 of flint." 
 
 On the 12th of April, Colonel Squire sailed from Caijfa for Acre. His Journal 
 then continues. 
 
 " Wind e. s. e. light breezes. At half past six a.m. weigh anchor ; and at half past 
 seven, bring-to at the entrance of the harbour of Acre. A boat came from the town, 
 which undertook to bring the vessel into the harbour. Our pilot, it appeared, was a 
 sort of harbour-master, and has constantly twenty men employed for his assistance. 
 As soon as the vessel was moored, the Captain of the port stripped himself, made a 
 dive under the vessel's bottom, and told us there were four feet of water between the 
 keel and the anchoring ground. The man was extremely old ; and we were surprised 
 
 at 
 

 APPENDIX, N U I. 
 
 at his activity and attention: however, upon inquiry, he said, that he obeyed the 
 orders of Djezzar, who would immediately take off his head should an accident happen 
 to any ships moored in the harbour of Acre. After a salute of thirteen guns, which 
 was returned by Djezzar's batteries, we landed, with a view to pay our compliments to 
 the Pasha. Djezzar was setting in a small apartment at the farther extremity of a court 
 in the upper floor of the Seraglio. The court was planted with orange and lemon 
 trees, and other shrubs ; and one side was occupied by the Charem. 
 
 " Djezzar received us in a very gracious manner, saying, that he had always loved the 
 English because they were a brave nation ; and seemed to insinuate that his friendship 
 was perfectly disinterested ; that he was independent of all ; that he had plenty of guns 
 and troops of his own j in short, that he was able to defend himself without the 
 assistance of others. When we inquired with respect to the march of the Vizier through 
 Syria, and his return from Egypt to Constantinople, he replied : ' I know not which way 
 * he is gone ; they say he is how at Damascus ; he will scarcely leave a beard or mustachio 
 ' in any town that he passes through. When he was at Cairo, he desired me to send timber 
 ' for his army: my reply was, I am not a seller of wood.' So that Djezzar fully explained 
 his situation and his politics ; continually launching forth in his own praises ; at the same 
 time that he abused the Vizier and his creatures. ' The Vizier (said he) has rich 
 ' dresses and precious ornaments in abundance ; but he carries all his wealth on his 
 ' person. I am a Bosniac, a rough unpolished soldier, not accustomed to courts and 
 ' politeness, but bred in camps and in the field. I have no handsome pelisses nor fine 
 ' shawls : my troops, however, are well paid, and numerous. I am expert (added he) 
 ( in the management of a sabre : with a single stroke of my sword, I have cut in two the 
 ' barrel of a musquet.' 
 
 " Djezzar sat in the upper corner of the apartment : close to his hand was a four- 
 barrelled pistol, very richly mnnnted ; behind him were two musquets, a sabre, and an 
 axe; a silver spitting cup was in his left hand; and in another part of the room, a 
 drinking mug of wood, made by himself, and always kept in the apartment: the 
 ceiling was ornamented with landscape painting of his own invention. The Divan 
 (the part raised a few inches above the floor) was covered with a thin common carpet; 
 the other part of the chamber with a mat. Djezzar leans on a low crutch, placed 
 under his right arm, which he said he had always used instead of the fine downy 
 cushions of the rich and indolent. He was dressed in an old darned pelisse, with 
 blue cloth trowsers, in the Turkish style, and a red shawl on his head as a turban. He 
 remarked, that he was sleeping when we fired our salute; that he had been rather 
 unwell ; that the report of the guns awoke him, and that the grateful sound had revived 
 him from his indisposition. 
 
 " Djezzar may be between seventy and eighty years of age ; he has lost the greater 
 
 part of his teeth, has a respectable grey beard, and a prominent nose ; and though when 
 
 he smiles he may impose upon one the appearance of good nature, the ordinary cast 
 
 of his countenance, with his wrinkled brow, sufficiently denotes his well-known 
 
 Vol. III. 5 K familiarity 
 
 801 
 
^M 
 
 
 802 APPENDIX, N°I. 
 
 familiarity with conspiracies and assassination. After taking our leave, we visited the 
 
 fortifications of Acre, towards the land, with the Dragoman of Djezzar ; who pointed 
 
 out to us the position of the French camp, and the different points against which the 
 
 attack was directed. The camp was in the plain, about two miles south-east from the 
 
 town, extending itself, from the sea, as far as the remains of a church near the aqueduct 
 
 which once conveyed water to Acre. Part of this building was destroyed by Buonaparto : 
 
 that part which was near the town has been levelled by Djezzar since the departure 
 
 of jhe French, that he might render the defences of his works as open and clear as 
 
 possible. With the same view he has levelled most of the trees in the neighbourhood. 
 
 IN. B. Here Col. Squire enters into a very detailed account of the fortifications of 
 
 Acre.~\ 
 
 " The Mosque, built by Djezzar about fifteen years ago, has a large dome, and 
 
 both outside and within is very richly ornamented. We observed in the walls large 
 
 pieces of Verd-antique, and specimens of many different kinds of marble : the ornaments 
 
 within are light, and painted in very gay colours : the whole building has more the 
 
 appearance of a fine theatre, than a place for devotion. We were not permitted to 
 
 ascend the minaret : here it is the office of a blind person to call the people to prayers, 
 
 that there may be no opportunity from this elevated situation to observe the women in 
 
 the Pasha's Charem. Before being admitted into the Mosque, we were obliged to 
 
 purchase thin slippers, and wear them as a mark qf respect, leaving our boots at the 
 
 entrance. The court of the Mosque, in the centre of which is a neat fountain, and a 
 
 small plantation of palm and cypress trees, is surrounded by a sort of cloister, and small 
 
 apartments, in which are deposited the books of Djezzar. These aiso serve as lodging 
 
 places for the chief people of the law. Under the Mosque is a large reservoir for water ; 
 
 and we were informed, that, at present, a ten years' supply of water for the town is 
 
 collected in the different cisterns. Without the gate of the Mosque, and opposite to 
 
 the entrance of the Seraglio, is a handsome fountain, with basons of white marble, 
 
 and furnished with drinking cups, very convenient for the inhabitants. Since the 
 
 campaign of the French in Syria, the fortifications of Acre have been repaired, and 
 
 considerably increased : those which have been added are much more substantial than 
 
 the old ; the masonry, though not finely wrought, is solid and well executed; the 
 
 stones which compose it are taken from the walls and foundations of the ancient 
 
 Ptolema'is. The whole of the ramparts are surmounted with a sort of battlement, which 
 
 Djezzar told us was very useful when the enemy mounted to the assault : for these 
 
 stones, being loosened, were tumbled down upon the French, and occasioned very great 
 
 confusion. When the French besieged Acre, their attack was directed on the Bourge 
 
 Ali, at the north-east angle; and the besiegers took advantage of irregularities in the 
 
 ground, of the garden walls, and of a small ravine, and more particularly of the 
 
 remains of an aqueduct which once conveyed water to Acre. Djezzar, profiting by 
 
 this experience, has entirely levelled the aqueduct near the town, and is determined that; 
 
 fet the future, the enemy shall not have the smallest shelter. 
 
 "The 
 
APPENDIX, N» I. 
 
 803 
 
 " The Bay of Acre, or Caiffa, is seven miles in width, and perhaps a league and an 
 half in length : the sweep is nearly semicircular : the soundings in general ten or eleven 
 fathoms j and the holding ground near the village Caiffa, on the south side, excellent. 
 
 " A low sandy ridge, projecting from the south point of the bay, forms a secure road- 
 stead abreast of Caiffa, and is always preferred. Two small streams discharge themselves 
 into the Bay of Acre : one about a mile east of Caiffa, supposed to be the Kishon of the 
 Sacred Scripture : a second, called the River of Acre, discharges itself into the sea, perhaps 
 a mile and an half from the town. This stream is shallow, inconsiderable, and frequently 
 changes its direction. The beach of the bay does not seem convenient for landing, 
 being much exposed to the westerly winds, flat and shallow, with a continual surf. 
 
 " April the 13th. Soon after breakfast we visited Djezzar, who was very talkative, 
 and shewed us several specimens of his ingenuity : he cut out, in our presence, a gun, 
 in paper, with a pair of scissars ; told us he was a great adept at this art, and would let 
 us see his performances : these consisted of vases and flowers, very neatly cut, and adorned 
 with different inscriptions from the Koran, and had been further decorated by a painter 
 in the town : he also showed us the model of a powder-mill to be worked by horses, 
 of his own invention. When we made him a compliment on the gallant defence of 
 Acre, by himself and Sir Sidney Smith, — ' Ah ! (replied he) all events are from God. 
 ' Fate has always favoured Djezzar j and confident in my own strength and means, I 
 ' never feared Buonaparte. Nor do I care for the Vizier : when he marched through 
 ' this part of Syria, he did not dare to approach Acre ; for he knew I was well able to 
 ( receive him.' 
 
 " After having taken our leave, we wished to visit the fortifications towards the sea : 
 we were however told, that it would be better to walk without the town ; for 
 Djezzar could not be responsible for our safety within, as it was the time of a festival 
 (the Kourban Eeiram, the sacrifice of lambs), during which the soldiers fire their pistols 
 continually (always with ball), and perhaps some accident might befal us. Mr. Hamilton 
 returned to Djezzar, to make some diplomatic arrangements ; while Major Leake and 
 myself took a walk on the north side of the fortifications. 
 
 " Djezzar's Dragoman (Bertocini, a Genoese) informed us, that thirteen years ago, 
 on account of a suspected conspiracy between his Mamaluke slaves and his Georgian 
 and Circassian women, he put them all to death, eleven females, by throwing them 
 alive into a well, and thus leaving them to expire : he also mutilated a vast number of 
 them, by cutting off their noses, who had had the smallest communication with the 
 Mamalukes. It is supposed that Djezzar has thirteen women inhisCharem: their 
 dresses being made in the town, and a billet being sent to the workmen for a dresa 
 for such a particular number. 
 
 " At four p. m. we re-embark. 
 
 " April the 14th. After breakfast we visited Djezzar. We brought with us a 
 packet, which we requested him to forward by a courier to Aleppo. ' Am I (said 
 ' he, in a violent rage,) the Sais Bashi (Chief of the Couriers). Your conduct is very 
 
 ' extraordinary : 
 
J-1«E»> W&* ^T^Y ** *" 
 
 804 
 
 APPENDIX, N°I. 
 
 * extraordinary : the first day you visit me as a friend ;■ — you make me no present. 
 ' You suspected my friendship from the first. Instead of coming directly to Acre, why 
 -' did you anchor at Caiffa?' [We were prevented by the weather, and our pilot's 
 entire ignorance of the harbour.] ' On the second visit you desire to see the plans of 
 ' my fortifications ; and while the two others go without, and examine my fortifications, 
 ' you {addressing himself to Mr. Hamilton) remain with me, open the object of your 
 ' mission, and wish me to make peace with the Druzes 5 a subject I cannot bear to advert 
 ' to.' Mr. Hamilton attempted an explanation ; and told him that the simple subject 
 of his inquiry was, whether Sir Sidney Smith had interfered in the affair of the Druzes, 
 or not ; — that Lord Elgin was extremely sorry to have heard a report of that nature ; — 
 that the conduct Of those persons who had communicated with the enemies of Djezzar 
 should be strictly inquired into : and he concluded by observing, that he hoped Djezzar 
 would receive an English Consul at Acre. This, indeed, was the subject of the conver- 
 sation of yesterday. Djezzar has mistaken the whole : like a true tyrant, always filled 
 with jealousy and suspicion, he imagined that we were emissaries from the English, and 
 wished to re-establish the affairs of the Druzes. He would hearken to no explanation; 
 but entertained suspicions which we saw it would be wholly impossible to erase. 
 The Emir Bechir (Prince) of the Druzes, who governs the Mountains (of the Lebanon) 
 inhabited by this people and the Maronites, is continually at war with Djezzar, and 
 has refused the contributions annually levied in the Mountains. Djezzar retains two 
 nephews of the Emir in his Seraglio, as hostages, in case any act of hostility should 
 be shewn by the Prince of the Mountains. When the French were before Acre, they 
 attempted to bring over the Druzes and Maronites to their alliance. Sir Sidney Smith, 
 gaining intelligence of this, very prudently despatched emissaries to counteract the 
 French intrigue in the Mountains ; and made ample promises of his friendship and 
 protection to the Druzes. This people had always been the declared enemies of 
 Djezzar ; and the short-sighted policy of the tyrant made him most inveterate against 
 Sir Sidney and the English, on account of their correspondence in the Mountains. 
 
 ' ' ' I can {added Djezzar) let the English know that I am as powerful in my 
 
 * enmities, as I am faithful and sincere in my friendships. Am I to be dictated to ? 
 ' I, who have held the sword over the heads of the Beys, shall I lower it, and be 
 ' humbled by the English ? No, {exclaimed he,) I can withstand them all. I will have 
 ' no communication with the English. I will have no Consul of that' nation; not one 
 ' of their ships shall come into my harbour j they shall not approach within gun-shot 
 ' of my fortifications.' Mr. Hamilton still attempted to explain : and at last, Djezzar 
 went so far as to say, that it was not with Sir Sidney Smith that he was offended ; that 
 it was with a Mr. Wright, Lieutenant of the Tigre, and the Vice-Consul of Tripoli, a 
 Frenchman, whom he considered the cause of the breach between him (Djezzar) and 
 Sir Sidney. ' Mr. Wright {continued he) and the other had been to visit the Chiefs of the 
 1 Druzes ; had made arrangements with them, and had even returned with some of the 
 
 * Princes to Acre; and Sir Sidney ought certainly to have prevented this communication : 
 
 however, 
 
 -&L* 
 
APPENDIX, N°I. 
 
 805 
 
 ' however, (said he) I am not offended with him.' In short, in his extreme anger, 
 he frequently contradicted himself. Leake and myself smiled upon some observations 
 between ourselves. Djezzar became furious. ' I, who have been a Pasha of three tails 
 ' these five years ; I, (said he) who have defeated twelve thousand Druzes with twenty 
 ( horsemen, am I to be insulted in this manner ? — I am speaking seriously. Am I to be 
 ' laughed at and derided ? — I am an old man : you are children : look at my beard. — 
 ' I am choleric ; I know not what may be the consequences ! Had I not been in my 
 * own house, I should instantly have bursted forth and died with indignation ! I am 
 ' now in such a rage, and have talked so much, that I can neither see nor distinguish 
 ' any of you !' His mouth, at different times, was so parched with anger and exertion, that 
 he took large draughts of water, and remarked, that he had never drank so much water 
 in his life. After a violent conversation of two hours, in which the cruelty, the tyranny, 
 the ingratitude of this monster were displayed in their blackest colours, we took our 
 departure ; telling him, that we would repeat our visit in the evening. 
 
 " In the course of this morning's interview, he told us, that he was a just man, and 
 fond of order and regularity. ' If my soldiers touch me, or have the appearance of 
 ' offering the smallest insult) I immediately order them to be beheaded. If a man 
 ' insults a woman, his punishment is the same. If I desire a man to sit down in my 
 ' presence, and I go out of the apartment, and he quits his seat before my return, the 
 ' loss of his head is the consequence.' 
 
 " In the afternoon, we again landed with an intention to visit the Pasha j but we 
 were told by the Dragoman, that he had gone into his Charem, and would not be 
 visible this evening: we therefore returned to the ship. 
 
 "April 15th. After breakfast we went ashore with an intention to visit Djezzar j 
 but we were told by his Dragoman, that he had issued orders at the gates of the Seraglio 
 to refuse our admission. We then inquired if it were possible to hire horses, to pass 
 by land to Tripoli : the Dragoman answered in the negative j for there would be no 
 security for our persons. We then determined to get under weigh, and proceed to 
 Tripoli by sea. At one p. m. we were unmoored, and got out of the bay, with a 
 small breeze from the northward." 
 
. tfif«,X I'M Oi I ■ JM H W- ' 
 
 "7-Wr-"WiW 
 
 
 806 
 
 APl'ENDIX, N°ll 
 
 Nil. 
 
 
 f 
 
 ON THE 
 
 DISCOVERY BY COLONEL CAPPER 
 
 OF THE EXISTENCE OF 
 ANTIENT PAGAN SUPERSTITIONS IN MOUNT LIBANUS, 
 
 PARTICULARLY THOSE WHICH RELATE TO THE WORSHIP OF VENUS. 
 
 1 he superstition discovered by Colonel Capper can be considered 
 as nothing less than the expiring embers of those holocausts which 
 once blazed in honour of Sidonian Astarte 1 . The Venus of Libanus 
 was called Asthoreth, from the number of sacrifices offered to her. 
 Eusebius mentions this situation of her temple ; it was built in the 
 most secluded solitude of that mountain \ Constantine overthrew 
 the temple, and, according to Augustine 3 , abolished its detestable 
 rites ; but these, however, have in some measure survived, and 
 remain at the present day among those wretched superstitions which 
 
 degrade 
 
 (l) Astarte, Astaroth, Ashtaroth, Asthoreth, Astara, (See the Inscriptions communicuted to Part I. 
 of these Travels, by Charles Kelsall, Esq. from the Cimmerian Bosporus, p. 402. Second edit.) Aestar, 
 (whence our word Aester : See chap. X. p. 317. Note 2, of the former Polume : also Gale's Court 
 of the Gentiles, B. ii. c. 2.) Nothing tends more to elucidate and simplify Heathen mythology, 
 than the constantly bearing in recollection the identity of all those Pagan idols which were 
 distinguished by these several names ; (to which may be added the other less similar appellations 
 of the same Phoenician Goddess ;) viz. Atergatis, Juno, Isis, Hecate, Proserpine, Ceres, Diana, 
 Europa, (Cicer. de Natur. Deor. lib.nl) Venus, Urania, Dercetis, (Ovid. Metam. lib.'w.) and 
 Luna. The Arabians called her Alilat, and still preserve their Aliluia. Among the Chaldeans she 
 was called Militta. 
 
 (2; Eusebius de Laudib. Constant. Orat. et de Praep. lib. iv. cap. 7. 
 
 (3/ Augustin. de Civitat. Dei, lib. iv. cap. 10. 
 
APPENDIX, N°II. 
 
 degrade a multitude of human beings, to whom the Holy Scriptures 
 have been hitherto denied. However impious and abominable these 
 superstitions at last became, they were, in their origin, of a purer 
 nature ; having resulted solely from the veneration paid by a grateful 
 people to those luminaries of heaven, whence they supposed all their 
 blessings to be derived. Before the coming of the Jews into the 
 Promised Land, it is evident, from Scripture, that the worship of the 
 Moon 4 was cultivated by the original inhabitants of the country ; 
 and there cannot be pointed out a truth connected with their 
 history more capable of demonstration, than that the Dea Syria 
 who obtained, by her ten thousand appellations, the epithet of 
 Myrionymus, with all the fabulous history of her favourite Adonis, 
 or the Earth", was, under all its modifications, but so many 
 testimonies of this antient worship 6 . The numerous instances of 
 popular Pagan superstitions retained in the Greek and Roman 
 churches have been often before noticed ; these were made sub- 
 servient to the propagation of a more enlightened system of faith : 
 and as, in our reformed religion, a part of the Liturgy of the Roman 
 Church has been preserved, so it may be said that certain of the 
 
 external 
 
 807 
 
 (4) It was from the Phoenicians and Canaanites that the Israelites learned this worship. " The 
 children gather wood, and the fathers kindle the fire, and the women knead their dough, to make 
 cakes to the Queen of Heaven." {Jerem. vii. 8.) The Canaanites and Phoenicians called the 
 moon Askteroth, Astarte, Baaltis. Lucian expressly says, that Astarte, that is to say, the f'enxis of 
 Libanus, or Queen of Heaven, was the moon; and Herodotus {lib. b.) calls Asturte, 'Aa-r^d^n ; 
 as it is said by Herodian that the Carthaginians did, who affirmed her to he the same with the 
 moon. This deity was worshipped by the Philistines in the shape of a fish. Lucian Dea Syria) 
 saw the image in Phoenicia ; the upper part resembling a woman ; the lower, a fish. And to 
 this Horace has been supposed to allude in the following line : 
 
 Desinit in piscem mulier formosa superne." 
 
 (5) Macrob. Saturn, lib. i. cap. 21. 
 
 (G) See particularly the Harpocrates of Cuper, {p. 108. Utrecht, 1687.) and the figure of Isis A 
 as engraved by him. 
 
\*m 
 
 
 808 APPENDIX, N° II 
 
 external forms, and even of the prayers 1 , in use among the 
 Heathens, are still retained. A Roman-catholic, however, who 
 prostrates himself before a wooden crucifix, or a member of the 
 Greek Church making the sign of the cross, will not readily 
 admit that the figure of a cross was used, as a symbol of 
 resurrection from the dead, long before the sufferings of our 
 Saviour. Like Albericus examining the writings of Abelard *, 
 either of them reading such an assertion would deem it pregnant 
 with the most noxious heresy ; and yet, exactly after the manner 
 in which Abelard refuted the charge of Albericus 3 , we have only 
 to open a volume of one of their own Fathers, to prove that 
 this is indisputably true 4 . The enemies of Christianity long ago 
 endeavoured to vilify and blaspheme its rites, by pointing out a 
 resemblance between the history of our Saviour's death and resur- 
 rection, and the annual lamentations for Adonis, followed by the 
 joy expressed for his supposed resuscitation 5 . But the fable of 
 
 Adonis, 
 
 (1) The Ghospody Pomilui of the Russians, and " Lord have mercy upon us," as it stands in 
 our Liturgy, was a part of the Pagan Litany. (See Young's Diss. 8{c. Vol. W.p.l. Land. 1734.) 
 Vossius says, that Ku^t ixititw was an usual form of prayer among the Gentiles, as well as Jews. 
 So Arrian, {Epict. lib. ii. c. 7.) T«» ©e»v \*iK*\ovpiiH hlptfa avrS Kioit Ixitiiw " Culling upon God, 
 we pray, Lord have mercy upon us." 
 
 (2) See that most entertaining History of the Lives of Abelard and Heloise, as compiled from 
 original documents by the Rev. Joseph Berrington, printed at Birmingham in 1787. The passage 
 alluded to is in page 136, and contains a salutary lesson for bigots of every sect and denomination. 
 Mr. Berrington's Work perhaps comprises the most able survey extant, and certainly the most 
 amusing, of the state of literature in the eleventh and twelfth centuries. 
 
 (3) See Berrington's Hist, of the Lives of Abelard and Heloise, p. 137. 
 
 (4) Socrates Scholasticus, lib. v. cap. 17. Camb. 1720.' — See " Greek Marbles," p. 78. The 
 learned author of " An Historical Dissertation on Idolatrous Corruptions," [Vol. II. p. 58. Note. 
 Lond. 1734.) says the Cross in Egyptian Hieroglyphics denoted Life Eternal ; and that upon 
 this extraordinary coincidence between a Pagan symbol and the instrument of ounSaviour's death, 
 many of the Gentiles were converted to Christianity. See Ruffinus, lib. ii. c. 2,9. Sozomen. Hist. 
 Eccles. lib. vii. c. 15. 
 
 (5) Julius Firmicus de Errore Profan. Relig, &c. 
 
APPENDIX, No II. 
 
 Adonis, although afterwards the foundation of detestable and 
 degrading superstition, originally typified nothing more than the 
 vicissitudes of winter and summer 6 , — the seeming death and 
 revival of Nature ; whence a doubtful hope was occasionally 
 excited of the soul's existence in a future state. This expectation 
 so naturally results from the contemplation of such phenomena, 
 that traces of it may be discerned among the most barbarous 
 nations 7 . Some glimmering, therefore, of a brighter light, which 
 was afterwards fully manifested in the Gospel, must naturally have 
 occasioned indistinct traces of similitude between the Heathen 
 mythology and the Christian dispensation. It was owing to such 
 coincidence that St. Paul declared to the Athenians, " That God 
 whom ye ignorantly worship, him declare I unto you." In viewing 
 these occasional resemblances, whether or not we be permitted to 
 investigate their causes, the fact of their existence is indisputable. 
 No one, duly considering the solemnities observed at Easter by 
 the antient Saxons prior to the introduction of Christianity 8 , or 
 viewing at this day the ceremony of the Greek Church, par- 
 ticularly that of Moscow, when the priests are occupied in 
 searching for the supposed body of the Messiah g , previous to a 
 declaration which ushers in the festivities of a whole empire, but 
 must call to mind the circumstance related by Gregory Nazianzen, 
 of the manner in which popular Pagan rites were made subservient 
 
 to 
 
 80.9 
 
 (6) Macrob. Saturn, lib. i. cap. 21. L.Bat. 1670. 
 
 (7) Beattie enables his Minstrel to derive a hope of the soul's immortality, from observing the 
 vicissitude of the Seasons ; 
 
 " Shall I be left abandoned in the dust, 
 
 When Fate, relenting, lets the flower revive ?" 
 
 Must, xxvii. p. 16. Edin. 1807. 
 
 (8) See Gale's Court of the Gentiles, Book ii. ch. 2. 
 
 (9) See Vol. I. of these Travels, Chap. IV. p. 56. second edit. 
 
 VOL. III. 5 L 
 
 
riJMJ*..! 
 
 810 APPENDIX, N e II. 
 
 to the advancement of the Christian faith ' ; as well as the 
 remarkable fact 2 , that, on a certain night in the same season of 
 the year, the Heathens similarly laid an image in their temples, and, 
 after numbering their lamentations according to the beads upon a 
 string, thus ended the appointed days of privation and sorroiv ; that 
 then light was brought in ; and the high-priest delivered an expression, 
 similar in its import, of resuscitation and deliverance from grief. 
 In tracing such resemblances, the celebrated Middleton, writing 
 from Rome, observes, " We see the people worshipping, at this 
 day, in the same temples — at the same altars, — sometimes the 
 same images — and always with the same ceremonieu — as the old 
 Romans." 
 
 (1) Orat. de Vita Greg. Thaum. torn. III. p.5?4. 
 
 (2) Vid. Jul. Finnic, de Errore Profan. Relig. &e. 
 
 

 APPENDIX, N°HI. 
 
 811 
 
 N° III. 
 
 THE following CATALOGUE is inserted by way of SURVEY of the PRESENT STATE of LITERATURE 
 in GREECE. It contains a LIST of BOOKS in the HELLENIC and in the ROMAIC LANGUAGES, printed 
 at VENICE at the Press o/"THEODOSIUS of YANINA, with their Prices in Venetian Liri and Soldi. 
 The Number has of course augmented since the period of the Author's return to England. 
 
 KATAAOTOS 
 TftN BIBAIftN 'EAAHNIKflN TE KAI KOINftN 
 
 Trig Tviroygcuptug rx Yldvov Qsodotriov ra gf 'Iwc&vvivuv. 
 
 'Enrlpn aafi'. 1802. <ptfi. 15. 
 
 Lir. Sol. 
 
 'AlTASMATAPION fxtya, rjroi 'EicXoyij h 
 
 tov Ei/voXoytoi/. fierd v<?ac Trpoadijicnc 3 • 
 
 ■ — ' EtS/OOV /HlKjOOV 1-10 
 
 1 AKoXovdla tov ' Ay tov Xf/yoaXa'jU7roi/4 ... 1-10 
 
 F,ripa dyiov NiKoXdov 1.0 
 
 — — Erfyoa dyiov Mtyrj^X 1.0 
 
 'Eripa ro)v uyiG>vhlapTvpo)vTi{iodtov, 
 
 Kal Muvpac 1.0 
 
 ■ 'Y^ripa rov iv 'Ayiote Uarpoc r/pnov 
 
 Aovdrov 1.0 
 
 'J&ripa tov dyiov Atovvcrlov liriaKOTrov 
 
 Atytvi/c 1 . 10 
 
 ■■ 'Err'|0a tov otriov Kal deotyopov TlaTpdz 
 
 j/juwi' ®EO(j>dvov<; tov viov 1-0 
 
 'JLTipa Ttjs 6aia<; M.t)Tpde i)f.io>y Qeo- 
 
 cw'yoac rrje Ba<T<\/<T<T7/c 1-0 
 
 AifTuirov Btoc, KOt Mi/0ot '¥JX\ijvi<rrl /nerd 
 7rpo(rd}jt;r}i; rr/c XpqrrTonOciai; * Avraviov 
 
 tov ¥>v(avTiov 3-0 
 
 "Erepot; fierd Kal rov tytcxppdffrov . . 3-10 
 
 'AX^aVfya tx Mcikeoovos itTTopta Ctd ari-vuiv \ . 
 
 'AfxapTw\uv 1o)T)]pt'a, veorvirodty 7-0 
 
 'Afitivra tov Tdaov 'Vpayuctia 2-0 
 
 'Apiayiov we pi ctayopuv Ai&oiy 1 . 10 
 
 Lir. Sol. 
 
 "Avdos "SLapiTuv NcW etc 'IraXiKtjv, Kal 
 
 drrXny 'Fujia'iKtjv <ppdo~iv 1-10 
 
 'Av0o\o'y(oj', veotvttuQev SiopBoop-ivov etc rd 
 
 eXXitt)} tiov uXXoiy tvwwv 16 • 
 
 'AdpctTOc rUXf/zoc •' 6-0 
 
 ^ AirnrrrnXoc venrvirctBtlc, Kal KoXd cepicvoc 6tC 
 
 ttet'CI <f>ivog 6-10 
 
 "Erf^oc opStvdpiot; 5-10 
 
 'AiroXXcSrtos Tv'^ooi/ Sid arivuv dirXuy ... 0-10 
 
 Btoc AiauTrov etc dirXnv cppdaiv 0-15 
 
 Bo<n:o;roi/Xa i) evp,op<pn 0-4 
 
 Boor^-o ( ooua^/o Sid GTiyuv koivwv Trepiypd- 
 
 <j>OVaa TO KttTd(TT£VOV Tlf<:¥^b)V<TTaVTlVOV- 
 
 7ToXtur; 2 • 
 
 Tai'Sdpov, Avkov, Kal 'AXovttovc. Kal ovov 
 
 rpoeffTWTOi; ctt]yno-i<; doTiia 0-4 
 
 TeuTroviKdvyOirov Tepti^ti cpfxrjVEtaQ Statydpov 3- 
 Vewpytov Ae^ikov to TsTpdyXoxraov, vsacrrl 
 rinrodkv, i)vt l np.Evov p.1 Xi£us kuI <j>avae 
 pidXiara etc rd u-erd tov «\0a ypdp- 
 p:ara. irXovTiop.ivov ue rac ttXeov aVay- 
 Kaiag, Iffropiac Kal juvdoXoyiac etc eice*- 
 vas rat Xt£u<; ottov dvtjKOvat, npos rrepiv- 
 
^^m 
 
 ■H ■ ■ 
 
 812 
 
 APPENDIX, N° III. 
 
 Lit. Sol. 
 
 aoripav KardXei^iy tov vo^fxaroq rrjc 
 Xe^eoxs, fie rcte ovopaaias tuv Beuv, pc 
 Trapaceiy/xara, Kara vaaav \ifyy, Kal 
 pit ctXXovc Tivdt; KaXuwi(7piov<; yuph trvy- 
 
 Kardfiaaiv SO . 
 
 r\i£ovvio<: Trcpl dpid/ii>)riKT]r fiedocov .... 3-10 
 VvufiiKci rraXaio>y tlvuv ^iXoao^ov tig dirXijv 
 
 typdaiv 1 . 10 
 
 VvufioXoyiKou r pvaoXupd, veaxrrl TVTrwdev . 0-15 
 1 pa /.i /licit ik i] tov Aetata pLMs fiBTa 7rpocrdiJKr]c 
 
 ical KaXXu)7no-p,vu ctai/naTOs 4 • 
 
 rpa/j./LiaTiK)}'FjXXr]yiK7j , AyTo>piovK.aTr}<j>6pov 3 . 10 
 
 VpafifxaTiKt} Vxaaapiuvot; 3 . Q 
 
 Tpafj.p.aTiKr)Qno^oipovTaCij Bt/3Xta Ttcrtrapa 3. 
 
 r pa/J,fXaTlK7) TUV (j)tXoarO(j>tKCJV 'JL7Tl(TTt}p.C)V j| 
 
 ovvTopoc, 'AvdXvtTis rrjs rretpafictTticrjc 
 vtfaTepat; (piXoaotpiac (Tvyypatyuaa psy 
 irapd tov "AyyeXov Mtyiaprjy Maprtvov, 
 fxtTtvtydutra £c eU ti)v Kotvrjy tu>v EX- 
 Xr\vu)v AidXsKToy napd AvBipov ya£ij 
 tov dpy^ipavCpiTOV tic 2 Topovs. YSiIvvtj, 
 J799-^'X WC GuyKardfiaoiv . . . . 16 . 
 
 lltUKOytKOV. VSGHTTl twoiSsv 2-0 
 
 ''ETtpoy flC 7T£T%1 3-0 
 
 klUKpHTK, ei<J TO TTOUjpa TOV HoXTCp. . . .3.0 
 
 AicatrfcraX/a 2i.pnmaviKTf ■ 4 
 
 bidaaKaXia Trcpl tov Qpovov Trjs 'Poipt/ij Kara 
 
 Ttjy yyupr/v Tuy Q>pavT(c%iov. Top. a. . 3-0 
 'ETtpa Ttjc TaXXiKayiKr/r TLicK\ljor(aG, 
 
 To>. /? ( 3.0 
 
 \i))y}](Ti'j AXi'^dyBpov tov Mafct^ovoc, Tepi- 
 iyovaa tov filov, tov<; TroXcpov;, rd Kar- 
 opdaipaTa, Kal Toy Qdvarov uvtov . . 1 . 10 
 
 Sioycyovs AatpTiov irtpl TSiav, AoypaTuv Kal 
 AirotyQtypdTuv tiov iv (jtiXoaooiq evdoKi- 
 /u\(jdvTiov BtjSXta ^c'fca. 'EvtTirjai 1798 
 etc oyhoov h*iyv>s crvyKctTdficKriv . . 16 • 
 
 'Efidopacapta, ?'Jtoi 'Eviai/Vioc Bt/3Xoc, irtpi- 
 tyovaa oXtjy ti)v aKoXoudiav tov yjoo- 
 vov, ijyovv to UpoXoyioy, to ^VaXrt'i- 
 piov, Tr/yTiapatcXt/TiKtfy, to 'AvBoXdyioy, 
 to Tptfttov, to lleyTTjKOcr-dploy, rat; 
 rptlt AsiTovpyia*;, Kal rd dvayKaiOTspa 
 tov Ei/^oXoytou 70-0 
 
 >u > / v Lir - So1 - 
 
 b.KXoytov, vtioaTi Tvirwdcv 8-0 
 
 l£iip(l0X6yiQV, VEOHTTl TVTTudiv 3-0 
 
 'EopToXoytoy, veugtI Tv^udey 4-0 
 
 'Emo-ToXapiov pie fiiav irpoo-BrjKtjy TroXXd Trcpi- 
 
 epyoy, Kal ■^pifffip.ov 3-0 
 
 EiiriaToXal cid CTiyuy dwXuv Kara Ttj^ v7TEpi\- 
 
 (j>ayiac 0.12 
 
 Epp:t]ve(aiF,vcrifhi<;V€plMip>jtTEO]?'KpiarTov 5. 
 
 KpUTOKpiTOf, VSOHTTl TVTTOlQcU . . . .3-10 
 
 'EpiMpfXi] Tpaypfita did aTiyiov . ... 1 . 10 
 'EXcy^ot KaTa ddtoy Kal dvoo-tfiwy u<; Top.. 
 
 Mo 10-0 
 
 EiVtrrudsioVf to Kad' vfrp,tjyt]v Kal vupeyiav 
 
 Spdpa 8.0 
 
 'Ey\/£(pidioy rfji ray £uuv oiKOvofiiae . . . 2-0 
 Eyayyr'Xtov, $iopQup,£vov etc woXXa IXXiiri), 
 p.c rd Kavovia tov TlaTpidpyov '\tpo- 
 0-oXvp.uv ^.pvadvBov tov Nora^oa . . 24 • 
 
 ''ETspoy ^pvcroy 32 . 
 
 EvyoXoytoy p,cya vEOTWuQtv 16-0 
 
 Zt]Trjp.aTa cidtyopa QeoXoyiKa tov p.tydXov 
 
 'Adavaaiov • 10 
 
 H 'E£rf/3t/3Xoe (etc Koivt}y yXuaaav juera- 
 <j>pa6eicra) Kuvtrravrivov AppievoTroXov. 
 Td vvv av^vydticra p.erd AttovtoXikmv, 
 ZvyoBiKojy, Kal WaTipiKiZv \LavovMv . . 18 . 
 
 WBiK}} ir?pir\yi]aii; Kvpov (iaaiXUu; Xlepauv . 8-0 
 
 QtaTpov HoXitikov pteTuyXoiTTurdh' ck tiJij 
 Aarivicot; etc Trjy koivt)v Ata'Xf/crov 7rapd 
 tov vxptjXuTdTov avdivTov OvyKpojjXa- 
 ■%(ac NticoXa'oiy MavpoKoSpdrov. TpiT)) 
 fiiopdoip.e'vTi cKcoiric Yicyoriq civox; avy- 
 
 KaTafiaaiy Ttva 15-0 
 
 (dsMpia 'X.ptffTtaytK)} 1 . 10 
 
 &i](7avpoc Aafia(TKt}vov viOTviroiBeU ... 8 • 
 Qeo(j>pdaTov 'HOikoI ^apaKTtjpe? etKOOvreaffapW • 10- 
 QeocpvXaKTOv l&ovXyapiat, ipp-t/yeia luj rd 
 Ttaaapa Tepd EvayycXia yupic Tiva 
 
 KarejSaapioy 30 • 
 
 (r)eoTOKapiov 3.0 
 
 Qvaia tov Afipadji ctd oti^uv dwXuv . 0-10 
 
 'i c iff tov u\>jOov<; MiTai'oivTOi; . ... 3 . 
 
APPEND 
 
 Lir. Sol. 
 
 'ItT-opia rrjg Vtv^avrl^og and Kritrtug Kdirp,ov 
 eug rove ttrydrovg Katpovg ptag, tig To- 
 fxovg r'. (x«/0«t ovyKaTeLfiaiTiv) . . . 60 • 
 
 'Itropia TioX£ptov dvapttTa^v 'Vuaoiag, Kal 
 
 rrjg 'OdwpiaviKtjg TLdprag, tig Tdpiovg c£ 21 • 
 
 'JtT'opia 'E-KKXijaiacrriK}] MeXeriov tig dirXtjy 
 
 <f>pd(W' tig Tdfiovg rptTg 60 • 
 
 'la'opia r}dtKt) BtXtacrapiov 'Ap^KTTpartjyov 
 
 tov pttydXov avroKpdropog .... 6 • 
 
 'lar-opia UravpaKt c)id oriyuv drrXtov . . . 0-4 
 
 Itr-opia rrjg licoT&'ae 0-4 
 
 Karavvfys MTrovviaXrj did ariy^uv ... . • 10 
 YLup-uhla. rov Y^dpXov ToXhdvri, »/ OToyaoTiKr} 
 Kal upaia \ypa pttra^paaQtiaa tig tijv 
 
 t]p,tTtpav hidXiKTOV 3-10 
 
 'lEirepa, 'AptTrj r»j<, Uap.£Xag . . .3-0 
 
 'JLripa, ktydvtat Yievtpag Kal vvp.<j)t]g 3 • 10 
 
 KopvtjXtov NtVwroc jrtpl ruv ilpyuv r\ytptd- 
 
 vuv 'EXXtjvuv Kal 'Piopauov .... 6 • 
 
 Tov avTov pit etKovac c<y«c avyKara- 
 
 fiaotv 7-0 
 
 A(£ck6v MtKpdv 3-0 
 
 \6yoi YvvoxficXcig tig to 'EuTtjptov Tiddog \ . 10 
 
 Ai^ikov BXrf^ow X'-'plv (TvyKaTdfiaaiv . . . 24 • 
 Adyoi TLavriyvpiKol, eh 'EyKupttov Statpdpuv 
 
 'Aytoiv 2-0 
 
 AciTOvpyiKOv fi'c LirjKos Kal yapaKTrjpa p.£yav 12- 
 AnTOvpyiat at Tptig, XpurroaTd/uov, Ba<rt- 
 Xtt'ov, Kal »/ lipotiytaa-Liht) p:c EtVovo- 
 
 ypa<j>iag, tig ttbt^I 3-10 
 
 ''Etc pat Big yapTOv 1 . 10 
 
 Mapyaptrat tov H-pvaotTTOLiov 8-0 
 
 WLapicdSas tOTopta ctd (tti\uv • 6 
 
 Mi/vata tu dtoltKa, vtOTvn-uQtvTa pit npoaftr)- 
 
 KVV TOV Tv7TlKOV, tig Kd0E COpTrjV TOV 
 
 ■ypdvov tKtt dirov Ypr)(rtLi{v{i. Kal aXXat 
 7roXXal diopdiocreig tig Tovg tipp.ovg, ica- 
 rafiao-iag, Kal rjyovg, ia(paXp,iva etgrovg 
 
 irpwTovg rv-KOvg ]44 • 
 
 MrjvtdT)) Aica-^al, vtoTvirudtivai . . . . 8.0 
 
 Mr)vo\6yiov tov tTovg 1802 0-3 
 
 \lvBot Alffdrrov, tig aTXrjy typdotv . . . 0-15 
 NvdoXoyiKOv tjdiKOTroXiTiKoy rrjs YIvX7rdi£ag .6-0 
 
 J X, N° III. 
 
 813 
 
 Lir. Sol. 
 lAupiug 'IffTopta 1 • 
 
 MvOoXoyiKov 'ApafitKov tfrot i^aKoXoifdrjaig 
 
 rijg ya\t]Lidg alg T6p,ovg Tlaoapag . .22-0 
 
 NavTtKtjg 6eb>pr)TtK0-7rpaKTiKt}g 'Epptyjvei'a, Ik 
 rfjg 'IraXtfcr/c StaXeKTOv tig tt\v tuv Tpai- 
 Ktov Kotvrjv fxeTayXtoTTtadstira Kal Tavvv 
 eTtt 1 802. wpwTov TVTotg eK^odBtira 6/xov 
 pttTa tgjv piadrjpiaTiKbJV wtvaKuv etg Sva 
 Top.ovg 
 
 Nioc Tlapd()ei(Tog, veoffrl TV7rupt£vog . . . 8-0 
 
 Bevo(j>ojvTog rd ou£6p.eva pte tiKovoypatyiag sig 
 ricroapag Tdptovg etg fypavT&Ze Y^yOtc 
 avyKardfiaatv 44 • 
 
 'OKTit>t)vog KaXd leptivi] 1.2 
 
 OIkoi TTjg QeordKov, 'FjXXtjvtKa, Kal dn-Xd . . 0-10 
 'Opdodotyg 'OpioXoyia 6-0 
 
 Hat^ayuy/a p.i irpoardrJKatg "£pr\otptatg . .0-2 
 
 'Eirtpa pttydXi] p,tTa Sia<f>dpovg KaXXu- 
 
 mapiovg 0-10 
 
 TlatSayuydg $ Ypap.ptaTtKrj irpaKTtKrj sv Bt- 
 
 £ vvtj 1800 Siyo>g avyKardflaatv . . .10-0 
 
 TlapaKXt)TiKT) veaffTt TvrruQetaa, Kal tTrtpteXug 
 
 ctopQutQeicra 20 • 
 
 Y\svTr}KO(TTaptov wapoptoiug 12 . 
 
 Tltptypaibrj 'ltpd tov 1.ivq"Opovg t pisrd Trjg 
 'AKoXovdiag r>/c dyiag AiKareptvrig, Kal 
 h£puv Trdvv d(bcXip.o>v dtTjyijaetov . 2 . 10 
 
 Tlepl Ttjg dtaTptfirjg tig 'JLvtTtav tuv Kw^w^rwv 
 rrjg ' ApKTOv tov pteydXov AovKog rrjg 
 'Puacrt'ag . 10 
 
 YltTpa ^.KayldXov t)TOt £ta<rd<f>r)Otg rue %t\p- 
 vtuv Totv h^vu 'EkKX^fftwi/ 'AvaToXtKtjg 
 Kal AvTtKrjg, (Tvyypatjxicra rrapd SjXtov 
 Mrfvidrri 8-0 
 
 TIoXtp:tKT)g Tf'^vf/e tpp.tjveia p.trd ttjv Tafyv 
 
 tuv OTpartvptdTuv r»/<,- peydXtjg 'Paxrcrtag 3- 
 
 TfpaKTtKa, I/rot Titptypatyi) ruv Wpdfywv 
 ->/c UkiulrrjSf ottov tytvtv tig Rapaofii'av 
 Ttjg YloXwvtag Kara rovg 1768 . . . 0-10 
 
 YipoaKw^Taptov rr/c jjamXiKrjg Kal atflafffxtag 
 Movijg Ti]g pityt'orrjg dyiag Aavpag, rov 
 dyiov 'ABaraariov tov iv Tp"Ada \ . 
 
cjffir.:.; 
 
 ■ if*+tf 
 
 ^■n 
 
 814 
 
 APPENDIX, N* III 
 
 Lir. Sol. 
 
 "Lrravos . 10 
 
 ZrtvoXoy/a, vcutrrl rvnuQuaa ptrd irpocrdtjuqc 
 rtvog avayica/ac rov 'YLrnrtpivov, rov Op- 
 dpov, Kai rye Attrovpyiag . ... • 5 
 IvXXeirovpyiKOv p,£rd rivoe viae 7rpoadrJK)]g .0-6 
 ^Lvvrina rov <$>iXoa6(j>ov 'laropia . ...1.0 
 ^Lvvraypdriov Nf'ov, wEpiiyov rr\v trpiwovaav 
 avro) 'A.Ko\ov6t'av TlapaKXtjriKrjv rtjs 
 oXr/g 'E/3£o/ia'£oe. Ni/v ro vpcorov rv- 
 7ru>dsv, Kal dicptfius Siopdodiv . . . 1 . 10 
 J,vvraypdriov ®£oXoyiKt}s wai^Etae . . . 16 . 
 *Zvvo\pi<;, vtuarl rvTruQu.<ra ptrd Trpovdijicijc, 
 
 Kat rivuv evyuv tv ra riXti . . . . 2-10 
 
 'Er^oa Ofxoia yjovo-opivt) . ... 3 • 10 
 
 ^ttpd ruv dyi'uv Ylaripuv tig rov 'Igj/3 . . 10 • 
 ^.vptuv 0£<r<7aXov/)C>7c tig dirkrfv <f)pd<riv \vpis 
 
 avyKardfiamv 32 . 
 
 Ta dxavra w patented rwvToriKuv ical OIkov- 
 
 fiEviKuv dyi'covYvvoBojv, tlglLopovg (Situ 124 • 
 
 Tapi<ba pt rate Tldaraig 0-15 
 
 TtrpatvdyytXov tig yapatcrijpa piyav, ptrd 
 irpotTdtjnic r>/c 'AjroKaXi/i//£6>c, xal piTJi- 
 vaica tmv pr\Tv>v rrjg TlaXaidg, rd ovola 
 svpiaKovrat tig rd riaaapa EvayyiXta 
 Kat 'An-o/co/Xi/^tJ' 7 • 
 
 'JLrtpov sit \apaKT7jpa ptiepov Bid iy- 
 
 koXttiov 7-0 
 
 —— — '"Ertpov tig drJKrjp xpvaovv . . . . 10 • 
 
 Tpayad'iai rov TLirpov hltraffracriov. vvv 
 •npurov ptratypacrdclaai tig rrjv yptripav 
 BidXtKrov. tig T6povg Bvu . . . .4-10 
 
 TplddlOV VEOTVTTudcV 22-0 
 
 XpiffrtaviKt] QtoXoyia rov QtoXoyiKurdrov 
 
 MtjrpoiroXirov Mo<r»c/3ac TiXdrwvog . . 8 
 
 jLpovoypd(f>og ptrd TrpocrdtjKtjg viag ruvTovp- 
 
 kuv BckhXeW 8 
 
 X/)»j(Tro>/0fia'EXX>;i'to'ri ptraypaffdtiaa tic rrjg 
 Aarivicog tig rrjv 'FjXXrjvtKrjv (puvtjv rrapd 
 y A.vruviov Hv^avrtov rj ndvv u>§tXipu>- 
 rdrr\ npog ZiaKdap-^aiv t]do>v ruv NfW . 1 
 
 ^K.pv(Tb)rrt)yt)'Io)dvuovH.pv(Too'r6pov. vvv irpu-. 
 tov ptrafpaadtiaa 32 
 
 ^VaXrtjpiov piya vtorvirudtv tig yjupaKnipa 
 
 piyav 4 • 10 
 
 — — ''ILrtpov piKpdv 1-2 
 
 ''Kr£pov 'EityjyrjTOv rov 'Ayairlov . . 8 • 
 
 'SlpoXoyiov (jketo, jXErd Bia(p6puv KaXXwiricr- 
 
 pdr'ov G • 10 
 
 "FjTEpov ypverupivov 8 
 
 SlpoXoyiov piya, rd X£y6p£vov rrj<; BXav/ac 10 • 
 "Etrtpov opotov yjpvaup.ivov . . .13-0 
 
APPENDIX, N'lV. 
 
 815 
 
 N°IV. 
 
 TEMPERATURE OF THE ATMOSPHERE, 
 
 ACCORDING TO 
 
 DIURNAL OBSERVATION; 
 
 WITH 
 
 A CORRESPONDING STATEMENT OF TEMPERATURE IN ENGLAND 
 
 DURING THE SAME PERIOD: 
 
 The latter being extracted from a Register kept in the Apartments of the Royal Society 
 of London, by Order of the President and Council. 
 
 N.B- The Observations during the Journey were always made at Noon; those of the Royal Society 
 at Two P. M ; and both on the Scale of Fahrenheit. 
 
 Observation on the 
 
 
 
 
 Observation in London 
 
 ■Scale of Fahrenheit. 
 
 Where made. 
 
 When made. 
 
 on the same Day. 
 
 82° 
 
 Acre, ir 
 
 i Syria, N. lat. 32°. 57'. 
 
 July 17. 
 
 66 
 
 82 
 
 Acre, 
 
 
 July 18. 
 
 69 
 
 8a 
 
 Acre, 
 
 
 July 19. 
 
 77 
 
 83 
 
 Acre, 
 
 
 July 20. 
 
 73 
 
 82 
 
 At sea, 
 
 off Mount Carmel, 
 
 July 21. 
 
 79 
 
 81 
 
 At sea, 
 
 N. lat. 33°. 24'. 
 
 July 22. 
 
 79 
 
 81 
 
 At sea, 
 
 N. lat. 33°. 48'. 
 
 July 23. 
 
 72 
 
 81 
 
 'At sea, 
 
 N. lat. 33°. 40'. 
 
 July 24. 
 
 69 
 
 81 
 
 At sea, 
 
 N. lat. 33°. &. 
 
 July 25. 
 
 71 
 
 81 
 
 At sea, 
 
 N. lat. 31°. 32'. 
 
 July 26. 
 
 76 
 
 81 
 
 At sea, 
 
 N. lat. 31°. 47'. 
 
 July 27. 
 
 72 
 
 so 
 
 At sea, 
 
 N. lat. 31°. 5of. 
 
 July 28. 
 
 68 
 
 81 
 
 At sea, 
 
 N. lat. 32°. 4'. 
 
 July 29. 
 
 66 
 
iK^ritTrtX.?^; 
 
 
 816 
 
 APPENDIX, N"1V. 
 
 Observation on the 
 Scale of Fahrenheit. 
 
 Where made. 
 
 When made. 
 
 Observation in Londm. 
 on the same Day. 
 
 81 
 
 At sea, N. lat. 32°. 
 
 July 30. 
 
 74 
 
 82 
 
 At sea, N. lat. 3 i°. 40'. 
 
 July 31. 
 
 72 
 
 81 
 
 c Off the mouth of the Nile, -j 
 1 N. lat. 31°. 40'. J 
 
 August 1. 
 
 74 
 
 82 
 
 Aboukir bay, 
 
 August 2. 
 
 74 
 
 83 
 
 Aboukir bay, 
 
 August 3. 
 
 63 
 
 83 
 
 Aboukir bay, 
 
 August 4. 
 
 71 
 
 83 
 
 Aboukir bay, 
 
 August 5 . 
 
 68 
 
 83 
 
 Aboukir bay, 
 
 August 6. 
 
 72 
 
 83 
 
 Aboukir bay, 
 
 August 7- 
 
 76 
 
 83 
 
 Aboukir bay, 
 
 August 8. 
 
 73 
 
 85 
 
 Rosetta, 
 
 August 9. 
 
 68 
 
 92 
 
 Upon the Nile, near Metubis, - 
 
 August 10. 
 
 74 
 
 89 
 
 Upon the Nile, near EI-Buredgiat, 
 
 August 11, 
 
 76 
 
 89 
 
 Upon the Nile, near Bulac, 
 
 August 12. 
 
 76 
 
 90 
 
 Upon the Nile, near Bulac, 
 
 August 13. 
 
 70 
 
 91 
 
 Upon the Nile, near Bulac, 
 
 August 14. 
 
 71 
 
 91 
 
 Cairo, 
 
 August 15. 
 
 73 
 
 91 
 
 Cairo, 
 
 August 16. 
 
 70 
 
 93 
 
 Cairo, 
 
 August 17. 
 
 75 
 
 92 
 
 Cai'ro, 
 
 August 18. 
 
 73 
 
 91 
 
 Cairo, 
 
 August 19. 
 
 74 
 
 91 
 
 Cairo, 
 
 August 20. 
 
 79 
 
 91 
 
 Cairo, 
 
 August 21. 
 
 71 
 
 90 
 
 Desert east of the Nile, 
 
 August 22. 
 
 71 
 
 85 
 
 {Pinnacle of the Greater Pyramid 1 ^ 
 of Djiza, J 
 
 91 
 
 Cairo, 
 
 92 
 
 Cairo, 
 
 90 
 
 Cairo, 
 
 92 
 
 Cairo, 
 
 87 
 
 Cairo, 
 
 87 
 
 Cairo, 
 
 86 
 
 Cairo, 
 
 87 
 
 Cairo, 
 
 69 
 
 August 24. 
 
 73 
 
 August 25. 
 
 71 
 
 August 26. 
 
 69 
 
 August 27. 
 
 73 
 
 August 28. 
 
 74 
 
 August 29. 
 
 76 
 
 August 30. 
 
 76 
 
 August 31. 
 
 68 
 
APPENDIX, No IV. 
 
 817 
 
 Observation on the 
 
 
 
 
 Observation in London 
 
 Scale of Fahrenheit. 
 
 Where made. 
 
 
 When made. 
 
 on the same Day. 
 
 89 
 
 Cairo, 
 
 
 September 1 . 
 
 68 
 
 90 
 
 Cai'ro, 
 
 
 September 2. 
 
 66 
 
 83 
 
 Upon the Nile, near Amus, 
 
 September 3 . 
 
 69 
 
 84 
 
 Upon the Nile, near 
 
 Machallet, 
 
 September 4. 
 
 66 
 
 84 
 
 Rosetta, 
 
 
 September 5. 
 
 73 
 
 82 
 
 Rosetta. 
 
 
 September 6. 
 
 69 
 
 81 
 
 Rosetta, 
 
 
 September 7. 
 
 66 
 
 81 
 
 Aboukir bay, 
 
 
 September 8. 
 
 68 
 
 81 
 
 Aboukir bay, 
 
 
 September Q. 
 
 70 
 
 82 
 
 Alexandria, 
 
 
 September 10. 
 
 66 
 
 83 
 
 Alexandria, 
 
 
 September 11. 
 
 65 
 
 82 
 
 Alexandria, 
 
 
 September 12. 
 
 62 
 
 ,81 
 
 Alexandria, 
 
 
 September 13. 
 
 65 
 
 81 
 
 Alexandria, 
 
 
 September 14. 
 
 66 
 
 82 
 
 Alexandria, 
 
 
 September 15. 
 
 70 
 
 81 
 
 Alexandria, 
 
 
 September 16. 
 
 68 
 
 81 
 
 Alexandria, 
 
 
 September 17. 
 
 68 
 
 76 
 
 Aboukir bay, 
 
 
 September 18. 
 
 71 
 
 76 
 
 Aboukir bay, 
 
 
 September 19 
 
 69 
 
 78 
 
 Aboukir bay, 
 
 
 September 20. 
 
 67 
 
 80 
 
 Aboukir bay, 
 
 
 September 21. 
 
 64 
 
 80 
 
 Aboukir bay, 
 
 
 September 22. 
 
 56 
 
 78. 
 
 At sea, off the mouths of the Nile 
 
 , September 23. 
 
 63 
 
 78 
 
 At sea, off the mouths of the Nile. 
 
 September 24. 
 
 61 
 
 78 
 
 At sea, N. lat. 33°. 
 
 30'. 
 
 September 25. 
 
 59 
 
 78 
 
 At sea, N. lat. 34°. 
 
 50'. 
 
 September 26. 
 
 61 
 
 78 
 
 At sea, N. lat. 35°. 
 
 55'. 
 
 September 27. 
 
 70 
 
 76 
 
 At sea, N. lat. 35°. 
 
 50'. 
 
 September 28. 
 
 67 
 
 74 
 
 At sea, 
 
 
 September 29. 
 
 
 74 
 
 At sea, 
 
 
 September 30. 
 
 64 
 
 72 
 
 At sea, near Rhodes, 
 
 
 October 1. 
 
 59 
 
 71 
 
 At sea, near Rhodes, 
 
 
 October 2. 
 
 65 
 
 74 
 
 At sea, near the Island Episcopia, 
 
 October 3. 
 
 65 
 
 75 
 
 At sea, near the Island Stanchio, 
 
 October 4. 
 
 61 
 
 76 
 
 Stanchio, 
 
 
 October 5. 
 
 61 
 
 77 
 
 Stanchio, 
 
 
 October 6. 
 
 57 
 
 Vol. [II. 
 
 
 5M 
 
 
 
 * 
 
w^*- 
 
 
 818 
 
 APPENDIX, N«IV. 
 
 Observation on the 
 
 
 
 Observation in London 
 
 Scale of Fahrenheit. 
 
 Where made. 
 
 When made. 
 
 on the same Day. 
 
 77 
 
 Stanchio, 
 
 October 7- 
 
 58 
 
 76 
 
 Stanchio, 
 
 October 8. 
 
 58 
 
 76 
 
 At sea, near Patmos, 
 
 October Q. 
 
 61 
 
 76 
 
 At Patmos, in the port, 
 
 October 10. 
 
 65 
 
 74 
 
 At Patmos, Ditto, 
 
 October 11. 
 
 61 
 
 69 
 
 At Patmos, Ditto, 
 
 October 12. 
 
 58 
 
 75 
 
 Ditto, smaller Harbour of Ditto, 
 
 October 13. 
 
 63 
 
 74 
 
 Ditto, smaller Harbour of Ditto, 
 
 October 14. 
 
 63 
 
 75 
 
 At sea, near Naxos, 
 
 October 15. 
 
 60 
 
 72 
 
 Island of Naxos, 
 
 October 16. 
 
 60 
 
 72 
 
 At sea, near Naxos, 
 
 October 17. 
 
 58 
 
 76 
 
 Island of Naxos, 
 
 October 18. 
 
 59 
 
 76 
 
 At sea, near Paros, 
 
 October 19. 
 
 54 
 
 76 
 
 Island of Paros, 
 
 October 20. 
 
 50 
 
 77 
 
 r Parian marble quarries of Mar- 
 1 pessus. 
 
 \ October 21. 
 
 45 
 
 75 
 
 Harbour of Syra, 
 
 October 22- 
 
 47 
 
 78 
 
 Harbour of Syra, 
 
 October 23. 
 
 53 
 
 75 
 
 At sea, near Zia, 
 
 October 24. 
 
 s 50 
 
 74 
 
 Island of Zia, 
 
 October 25. 
 
 53 
 
 76 
 
 Island of Zi'a, 
 
 October 26. 
 
 56 
 
 80 
 
 Cape Sunium, 
 
 October 27. 
 
 56 
 
 78 
 
 Near A.thens, 
 
 October 28. 
 
 49 
 
 80 
 
 Athens, 
 
 October 29. 
 
 54 
 
 66 
 
 Athens, 
 
 October 30. 
 
 59 
 
 64 
 
 Athens, 
 
 October 31. 
 
 62 
 
 60 
 
 Athens, 
 
 November 1. 
 
 60 
 
 62 
 
 Athens, 
 
 November 2. 
 
 56 
 
 48 
 
 Summit of Mount Hymettus, 
 
 November 3. 
 
 42 
 
 70 
 
 Athens, 
 
 November 4. 
 
 48 
 
 68 
 
 At sea, near iEgina, 
 
 November 5. 
 
 38 
 
 68 
 
 Epiada, 
 
 November 6. 
 
 42 
 
 67 
 
 Hieron of iEsculapius, 
 
 November 7. 
 
 40 
 
 67 
 
 Nauplia, 
 
 November 8. 
 
 47 
 
 67 
 
 Argos, 
 
 November 9. 
 
 48 
 
APPENDIX, N"IV. 
 
 819 
 
 Observation on the 
 Scale of Fahrenheit. 
 
 Where made. 
 
 When made. 
 
 Observation in London 
 on the same Day. 
 
 62 
 
 Carvati, near Mycenae, 
 
 November 10. 
 
 48 
 
 61 
 
 Sicyon, 
 
 November 11. 
 
 53 
 
 63 
 
 Corinth, 
 
 November 12. 
 
 48 
 
 68 
 
 Isthmus of Corinth, 
 
 November 13. 
 
 44 
 
 62 
 
 Stadium of the Isthmia, 
 
 November 14. 
 
 43 
 
 64 
 
 Bath of Helen, at Cenchreae, 
 
 November 15. 
 
 53 
 
 63 
 
 Caneta, 
 
 November 1(5. 
 
 55 
 
 67 
 
 Eleusis, 
 
 November \J. 
 
 54 
 
 61 
 
 Athens, 
 
 November 18. 
 
 50 
 
 60 
 
 Athens, , 
 
 November 19. 
 
 42 
 
 62 
 
 Athens, 
 
 November 20. 
 
 41 
 
 61 
 
 Athens, 
 
 November 21. 
 
 44 
 
 68 
 
 Eleusis, 
 
 November 22. 
 
 41 
 
 74 
 
 Eleusis, 
 
 November 23. 
 
 37 
 
 64 
 
 Athens, 
 
 November 24. 
 
 48 
 
 60 
 
 Athens, 
 
 November 25. 
 
 46 
 
 61 
 
 Athens, 
 
 November 26. 
 
 45 
 
 65 
 
 Athens, 
 
 November 27. 
 
 36 
 
 62 
 
 Athens, 
 
 -November 28. 
 
 37 
 
 68 
 
 Athens, 
 
 November 2Q. 
 
 29 
 
 67 
 
 Athens, 
 
 November 30. 
 
 36 
 

 if tftt'-* p^v.*rfjr 9J*X- ,p 
 
 ■*-.*>-.i.-r .--■.# . 
 
 
 I 
 
 820 
 
 APPENDIX, N"V 
 
 N° V. 
 
 NAMES OF PLACES 
 
 VISITED IN THE 
 
 AUTHORS ROUTE. 
 
 N.B. No attempt has been made upon the present occasion to state the Distances ; because, relating 
 principally to Sea Voyages, they are not precisely known. 
 
 1802. 
 
 
 July 17. 
 
 Acre. 
 
 18. 
 
 Acre. 
 
 19- 
 
 Acre. 
 
 20. 
 
 Acre. 
 
 21. 
 
 Sailed from Acr 
 
 22. 
 
 At sea. 
 
 23. 
 
 At sea. 
 
 24. 
 
 At sea. 
 
 25. 
 
 At sea. 
 
 26. 
 
 At sea. 
 
 27. 
 
 At sea. 
 
 28. 
 
 At sea. 
 
 29. 
 
 At sea. 
 
 30. 
 
 At sea. 
 
 31. 
 
 At sea. 
 
 August l. 
 
 Aboukir. 
 
 2. 
 
 Aboukir. 
 
 3. 
 
 Aboukir. 
 
 4. 
 
 Aboukir. 
 
 1802. 
 
 
 August 5. 
 
 Aboukir. 
 
 6. 
 
 Aboukir. 
 
 7- 
 
 Aboukir. 
 
 8. 
 
 Voyage to the Nile 
 
 9- 
 
 Rosetta. 
 
 10. 
 
 Upon the Nile. 
 
 11. 
 
 Upon the Nile 1 . 
 
 12. 
 
 Cairo. 
 
 13. 
 
 Cairo. 
 
 14. 
 
 Cairo. 
 
 15. 
 
 Cairo. 
 
 16. 
 
 Cairo. 
 
 17- 
 
 Cairo. 
 
 18. 
 
 Cairo. 
 
 19. 
 
 Cairo. 
 
 20. 
 
 Cairo. 
 
 • 21. 
 
 Cairo. 
 
 22. 
 
 Heliopolis. 
 
 23. 
 
 Pyramids of Djiza. 
 
 (l) A voyage of 200 miles against the whole force of the Inundation, in 36 hours. 
 
APPENDIX, N°V. 
 
 821 
 
 1802. 
 
 
 
 
 1802. 
 
 
 
 August 
 
 24. 
 
 Cairo. 
 
 
 I October 
 
 3. 
 
 Island Episcopia. 
 
 
 25. 
 
 Cairo. 
 
 
 
 4. 
 
 Island Stanchio. 
 
 
 26. 
 
 Cairo. 
 
 
 
 5. 
 
 Stanchio. 
 
 
 27- 
 
 Sheik Atman 
 
 beyond Cairo. 
 
 
 6. 
 
 Stanchio. 
 
 
 28. 
 
 Pyramids of Saccara. 
 
 
 7- 
 
 Stanchio. 
 
 
 29. 
 
 Cairo. 
 
 
 
 8. 
 
 Stanchio. 
 
 
 30. 
 
 Cairo. 
 
 
 
 9- 
 
 Island Leria — Patmos. 
 
 
 31. 
 
 Cairo. 
 
 
 
 10. 
 
 Pattnos. 
 
 September 1. 
 
 Cairo. 
 
 
 
 11. 
 
 Patmos. 
 
 
 2. 
 
 Bulac, upon the Nile. 
 
 
 12. 
 
 Off Samos, Icaria, &c. 
 
 
 3. 
 
 Terane, upon 
 
 the Nile. 
 
 
 13. 
 
 Western Port of Patmos. 
 
 
 4. 
 
 Se'l Hajar — Ruins of Sa'is. 
 
 
 14. 
 
 Patmos. 
 
 
 5. 
 
 Berimbal. 
 
 
 
 15. 
 
 Icaria — Naxos. 
 
 
 6. 
 
 Rosetta. t 
 
 
 
 16. 
 
 Naxos. 
 
 
 7- 
 
 Rosetta. 
 
 
 
 17. 
 
 Naxos. 
 
 
 8. 
 
 Aboukir. 
 
 
 
 ]8. 
 
 Naxos. 
 
 
 9- 
 
 Aboukir. 
 
 
 
 19- 
 
 Paros. 
 
 
 10. 
 
 Alexandria. 
 
 
 
 20. 
 
 Paros. Antiparos. 
 
 
 11. 
 
 Alexandria. 
 
 
 
 21. 
 
 Paros. 
 
 
 12. 
 
 Alexandria. 
 
 
 
 22. 
 
 Syra: 
 
 
 13. 
 
 Alexandria. 
 
 
 
 23. 
 
 Syra. 
 
 
 14. 
 
 Alexandria. 
 
 
 
 24. 
 
 Jura. 
 
 
 15. 
 
 Alexandria. 
 
 
 
 25. 
 
 Zia. 
 
 
 10. 
 
 Alexandria. 
 
 
 
 26. 
 
 Zia. 
 
 
 17- 
 
 Aboukir. 
 
 
 
 27. 
 
 Cape Sunium. 
 
 
 18. 
 
 Aboukir. 
 
 
 
 28. 
 
 Sinus Saronicus. 
 
 
 19- 
 
 At sea. 
 
 
 
 29. 
 
 Athens. 
 
 
 20. 
 
 At sea. 
 
 
 
 30. 
 
 Athens. 
 
 
 21. 
 
 At sea. 
 
 
 
 31. 
 
 Athens. 
 
 
 22. 
 
 At sea. 
 
 
 November 1. 
 
 Athens. 
 
 
 23. 
 
 At sea. 
 
 
 
 2. 
 
 Athens. 
 
 
 24. 
 
 At sea. 
 
 
 
 3. 
 
 Athens. 
 
 
 25. 
 
 At sea. 
 
 
 
 4. 
 
 Athens. 
 
 
 26. 
 
 At sea. 
 
 
 
 5. 
 
 iEgina. 
 
 
 27- 
 
 At sea. 
 
 
 
 6. 
 
 Epiada — Ligurio. 
 
 
 28. 
 
 At sea. 
 
 
 
 7- 
 
 Hieron of iEsculapius — Nauplia 
 
 
 29- 
 
 At sea. 
 
 
 
 8. 
 
 Nauplia. 
 
 
 30. 
 
 At sea. 
 
 
 
 9- 
 
 Tiryns — Argos. 
 
 October 
 
 1. 
 
 Off Rhodes. 
 
 
 
 10. 
 
 My cen ae — Ne mea . 
 
 
 2. 
 
 Coast of Asia Minor. 
 
 
 11. 
 
 Sicyon. 
 
■H IS §g« ^^ip|^Si^^«g^ 
 
 822 
 
 APPENDIX, N« V. 
 
 1802. 
 
 
 
 
 1802. 
 
 
 
 November 
 
 12. 
 
 Corinth. 
 
 
 November 
 
 22. 
 
 Eleusis. 
 
 
 13. 
 
 Corinth. 
 
 
 
 23. 
 
 Eleusis 
 
 
 14. 
 
 Corinth. 
 
 
 
 24. 
 
 Athens 
 
 
 15. 
 
 Cenchreae- 
 
 -Cromyon. 
 
 
 25. 
 
 Athens 
 
 
 10. 
 
 Megara. 
 
 
 
 26. 
 
 Athens 
 
 
 17- 
 
 Eleusis. 
 
 
 \ 
 
 27. 
 
 Athens 
 
 
 18. 
 
 Athens, 
 
 
 
 28. 
 
 Athens 
 
 
 19- 
 
 Athens. 
 
 
 
 29- 
 
 Athens 
 
 
 20. 
 
 Athens. 
 
 
 
 30. 
 
 Athens 
 
 ■ 
 
 21. 
 
 Athens. 
 
 
 
 
 
 END OF VOL. III. 
 
 Containing the Second Section of Part the Second. 
 
 ERRATA. 
 
 Page 7, line 8, for are read is. 
 
 — 117, — 15, for parisitical read parasitical. 
 
 — 214, — 13, for Ammon read Phtha, the Egyptian Vulcan. 
 
 — 224, No. 52, for Ham-string read Bow-string. 
 
 — 304, last line, dele, or Said. 
 
 — 310, line 1, for Mr. Hume read Mr. now Dr. John Hume. 
 
 — 428, Note, for Tinos read Tenos. 
 
 — 503, Note (6), for granite read breccia. 
 
 The Inscription mentioned p. 420, Note (a), was not discovered by Mr. Raikes, as there stated, but by 
 
 Mr. (now Sir William) Gell. 
 
 ERRORS of the WRITING ENGRAVER. 
 
 Plate XVIII. for " by the Author" read "by Preaux." 
 
 Plate XXV. for " Temple of Juno" read " Temple of Octavia." 
 
 Printed by R. Watts, 
 Broxbourn, Herts. 
 
m 
 
 9HK 
 
 ^mtmmmKammaK^mmmmmim 
 
■ s$$sa W&W* W*Ww ■ ffW 
 
> 
 
 
 •P 
 
 
". \J' 
 
 3m/s 
 
 ;:"-v 
 
 /: /."* * , 
 
 wmL 
 
 ^5 
 
 0r*x 
 
 ."%£*" 
 
 -6 
 ■84o& 
 
 >0fr 
 
 \LL>£ 
 
 .m&M * 
 
 THE J PAULfiETTVCEKBR-. 
 
 J--iAJ 
 
 PM 
 

 *sfe* 
 
 C LA R K E ' 
 TRAVELS 
 
 ,RE ECE'E G 
 
 AND JHf 
 
 HOLY LAND 
 
 E- ' ^^u:^ ^ . 
 
 5scTr^ 
 
 »«»gi»»eat^-