4 1 j . L'h PERSONAL NARRATIVE OF TRAVELS IN THE UNITED STATES AND CANADA IN 1826 ILLUSTRATED BY PLATES WITH REMARKS ON THE PRESENT STATE OF THE AMERICAN NAVY BY LIEUT. THE HON. FRED. FITZGERALD DE ROOS ROYAL NAVY LONDON WILLIAM HARRISON AINSWORTH OLD BOND STREET 1827. Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2015 https://archive.org/details/personalnarrativ00dero_1 TO HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS WILLIAM HENRY DUKE OF CLARENCE, LORD HIGH ADMIRAL OF ENGLAND, &C. &C. &C. Sir, It is with great diffidence and respectful gratitude, that I avail myself of the gracious permission I have received, to dedicate to your Royal Highness the following Narrative. Many of the observations which it contains, have reference to the Maritime Interests of Great Britain and the United States; and it would cause me a proud satisfaction should they DEDICATION. appear to throw the smallest light upon any matters connected with the Service over which your Royal Highness has been called to preside, to the general satisfaction of the I have the honour to remain, Sir, Your Royal Highnesses most dutiful And obedient servant, Frederick Fitzgerald De Roos. ' CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. Voyage — Block Island — Bay of New York — New York — Theatre — City hotel — New Brunswick — Trenton — The Dela- ware — Philadelphia — Steam-boat on the Elk River, 1 CHAPTER II. Washington — The Capitol — The Dock-yard — Monument — Public Offices — Remarks on the Government — Church Service — Visits — Women — Indian Deputations — Speech of a Chief, 14 CHAPTER III. Departure from Washington — An itinerant mechanic — Inn at Baltimore — Deputation of Indians — Museum — Mammoth — Na- tional Monument — Town of Baltimore and surrounding scenery — Ladies — Theatre — English Consul’s invitation — Ship-building at Baltimore — Society — Spot where General Ross fell — Chesa- peak Bay — Arrival at Philadelphia — Dock-yard, and ships on the stocks — Exhibition of pictures— Profusion of marble in the streets — Interior of the houses — Water- works for the supply of the town — Mode of passing the evening, 33 Vlll CONTENTS. CHAPTER IV. The Delaware river — Scenery of Staten Island and New Jer- sey — Arrival at New York — Theatre — Kean, the actor — So- ciety at New York — Anecdote — Environs of New York — Museum — Episcopalian church — Religion in America — Intro- duction to a celebrated beauty — Dinner party — Manners of the men and women— Phraseology, 45 CHAPTER V. Village of Hoboken — American Aldermen — Shops — Tea parties — Civility of the Americans to the English — National character — The Castle-garden — Dock-yard of New York — Fri- gate on the Stocks, peculiarity in her construction — The Ohio, a two-decker — Mistaken policy in Marine Affairs — Steam-frigate — Difficulty in Manning the American Navy, 56 CHAPTER VI. Maritime Power of the United States — Delusive Expectations — Mr. Haliburton’s Arguments against the Probability that America will ever become a great Naval Power — English North- American Colonies a Nursery for Seamen — Opinions maintain- ed by the Atlantic States, 68 CHAPTER VII. Scenery of the Hudson River — Island of New York — Country Villas — American Mountains — West Point— Military Academy — Scene of Andre’s fate — Catskil Mountains — Newberry and Plougli-keepsie — Traffic on the Hudson — Arrival at Albany — Great Canal from Albany to Lake Erie — Town of Troy — Line of hills in Massachusetts — Cheshire — Sleeping arrangements of the Yankee travellers — Stage-coach, and coachman — Method of driving — The Green Mountains — Deerfield — Petersham — Approach to Boston — Bunker’s Hill, 80 CONTENTS. IX CHAPTER VIII. Boston — The State-house — Society at Boston, and Beauty of the Women — Dock-yard — Vessels on the Stocks — Houses of the Officers — State of the American Navy — Embark on board a Packet — Nautical ignorance of the Captain — Sufferings of the Passengers, 92 CHAPTER IX. Eastport — Schudick river — Forests — Public reading-room — John Randolph, the Representative of Virginia — English Steam- boat — Town of St. John — Ship-building — Embark on board a coasting schooner — Her passengers and crew — Bay of Mines — Cape Split — Gale of wind ; terror of the Captain — Village of Horton — Town of Windsor, and English dinner — Departure for Halifax — Mode of travelling — Scenery of the neighbourhood — Arrival at Halifax — Town and Harbour — Important position of Bermuda — Government of Nova Scotia — Distant view of Quebec — The Montmorency river, 98 CHAPTER X. Arrival of H. M. S. Jupiter at Quebec — Description of the town — Views from the Citadel, and from Point Levi — Com- merce of Quebec — Its immunities, and jealousy of the mother country — Falls of Montmorency — Saw-mills — Indian village of Lorette — Squaws — Anecdote of the Chief of the tribe, 111 CHAPTER XI. The Plains of Abraham — Spot on which General Wolfe ex- pired — Burke’s Panegyric on the Hero — Profligate Life of the Lumberers — Embark in the Lady Sherbrooke Steam-boat for b X CONTENTS. Montreal — Salute from the Citadel — Wolfe’s Cove — Contested Election at Troi 3 Rivieres — Town of Sorel — Summer Residence of the Governor-General — Shores of the St. Lawrence — Mon- treal — Theatre — Miss Kelly — Indifferent accommodations for shipping — Establishments for ship-building, 120 CHAPTER XII. Isle of St. Helen — Bateaux — Botanical Garden — Departure from Montreal for La Chine — Scenery on the Road — Embark in a Steam-boat, at La Chine — Village of the Cascades— View of the Rapids — Coteaux du Lac — Williamsberg — Prescott — Scenery near the Village of Brockville — Advance of Civiliza- tion — The Lake of the Thousand Islands — Wretched aspect of a new American Settlement, called Alexandria — Moonlight Landscape, 131 CHAPTER XIII. Arrival at Kingston — The Lake Ontario — Reception at the Dock -yard — Ships on the Stocks — Use of Iron instead of Cop- per — Ice-boat ; its Construction, and Velocity on the Ice — Ma- rine resources — Fort Henry — Dock-yard of Sackett’s Harbour, compared with that of Kingston — Embark for Niagara — Ar- rival at York, the Capital of Upper Canada — Wharf near Newark — Ruins of Old Fort George — Cloud on the Western Horizon, formed by the Spray of the Cataract — Vicinity of Queenston — Retrocession of the Falls — Town of Lewiston — Terrific Whirlpool — Dreadful fate of a party of Indians, 140 CHAPTER XIV. Inn near the Falls of Niagara — Roar of the Fall heard on the Shores of Ontario — First View of the Cataract — Sensation of Melancholy produced by the Sight — Division and Height of the Falls — Houses in the Neighbourhood — Village of Manchester, CONTENTS. XI and Inn kept by an American General — Estimation of the quantity of Water which passes the Cataract — Close Approach to the Falls — Cottage of the Guide — A Rainbow — View at Daybreak — Visit to Sir Peregrine Maitland — Moonlight View of the Cataract, 151 CHAPTER XV. Goat Island — Bridge across the Rapids between the Village of Manchester and the Island — Method of its Construction — A Mineralogist — Thunder-storm — Expression of an American Gentleman — Degraded State of the Tuscaroras, an Indian tribe — Visit to the Cavern beneath the Fall of Niagara — Interior of the Abyss — A fine bright day mistaken for a rainy one — Vil- lage of Chippewa — Welland Canal — Injudicious Measure of the British Government —Phenomenon of the Burning Spring, 161 CHAPTER XVI. Departure from the Falls — Dine at the House of the Gover- nor — Embark at Newark — Gale of Wind — Lord Selkirk’s un- fortunate Settlement — Anecdote — Remarks on Emigration to Canada — Irish Emigrants — Inefficiency of Emigration to check the superabundant Population of the Mother Country, 173 CHAPTER XVII. Return over the Lake of the Thousand Islands — Rapid Change of Seasons in Canada — Project for a Dry Dock — Leave Prescott in a Bateau — Description of the vessel and boat’s crew — Shooting the Rapids — Wild Melodies sung by the Row- ers — Approach to the Longue Sault Rapid — Lake St. Francis — Miserable Accommodation at Lancaster, a Scotch village— Xll CONTENTS. Resume the voyage on Lake St. Francis — Town and Rapid of Coteau du Lac — Cedar Rapids, and terrific Passage of a Raft — Gasconade of the Natives — Village of La Chine — Arrival at Quebec — Directions for Travelling in America — Professional object of the Author in his Tour, 181 PERSONAL NARRATIVE. ♦ CHAPTER I. Voyage — Block Island — Bay of New York — New York — Theatre — City hotel — New Brunswick — Trenton — The Delaware — Philadelphia — Steam boat on the Elk River. On the 15th of May, 1826, my kind friend Admiral Lake gave me a month's leave of absence from my ship at Halifax ; and, after considerable hesitation whether I should shape my course towards the falls of Niagara, or the cities and Dock-yards of the United States, I decided to proceed to the latter. I embarked in the Frolic Packet, having fortunately found a very agreeable B 2 BLOCK ISLAND. companion in Major Yorke, who consented to accompany me as long as our routes lay to- gether. As we did not sail till the sixteenth, the wind being foul, I dated my leave from that day. The only books I could find in Halifax relating to the United States, were a long statistical account by Bristed, and the tour of an American to the Falls of Nia- gara, beginning with, “ I lay down in my Military cloak/’ &c. ; and until, by accident, I met with Duncan's Book, I could find no good account of that part of the world. After a tedious and uninteresting voyage of a week, during which we were chiefly enga- ged in beating against foul winds, we reach- ed Block-Island, about 100 miles from New York, and landed in hopes of finding that the steam-boat from Boston to that citv touched there. Disappointed in this expec- tation, we walked to the high land above the Bay, which is inhabited entirely by fisher- men. There are no trees on this Island, but where BAY OF NEW YORK. 3 the rock admits of cultivation, there are fine fields, interspersed with white cottages, which have a very gay appearance. The cottage we entered was extremely neat, and the inhabi- tants were very civil. The two daughters of the Proprietor were somewhat shy, but gave us a most favourable idea of American beauty. We re-embarked, and, after two more days of foul winds and hazy weather, which we afterwards learned was caused by extensive fires in the woods, to our great joy a light breeze sprung up, and we made the light- house of Sandy Hook, where we took a pi- lot on board. Our fair wind continuing, we soon crossed the extensive Bay of which Sandy Hook forms one extremity ; and about eight o’clock in the evening reached the Narrows, or entrance to the Bay of New York. This channel does not exceed a quarter of a mile in breadth. The high land and picturesque scenery on each side, form a fine preparation for the first view of New York. That mag- nificent city, which was now plainly dis- b 2 4 NEW YORK. THEATRE. tinguished, lies embosomed in the waters of her beautiful Bay, whence she sends forth her innumerable shipping to every quarter of the world. The banks of the Bay form one con- tinued garden. We were becalmed in the Narrows, and night coming on, our captain manned his boat ; and, guided by the lights of the city, which were finely reflected on the glassy sur- face of the waters, we arrived, to our great joy, at the place of our destination on the 24th of May. Our voyage had consumed nine days, though it has frequently been made in three, and this loss of time was to me, who had only leave of absence for a month, a mat- ter of serious annoyance. I consoled my- self, however, with the hope of proceeding faster during the remainder of my journey. Having removed our baggage to the inn, we proceeded to the theatre, which at New York is pretty enough, but the acting reminded me very much of what I had seen at Portsmouth. The most vulgar songs were loudly called for, CITY HOTEL. 5 and rapturously encored between the acts and pieces. There are no private boxes, and the audience did not appear to be composed of the most respectable classes. We lodged at the City hotel, which is the principal inn at New York. The house is immense and was full of company : but what a wretched place ! the floors were without carpets, the beds without curtains ; there was neither glass, mug, nor cup, and a miserable little rag was dignified with the name of towel. The entrance to the house is constantly ob- structed by crowds of people passing to and from the bar-room, where a person presides at a buffet formed upon the plan of a cage. This individual is engaged, “ from morn to dewy eve,” in preparing and issuing forth punch and spirits to strange-looking men, who come to the house to read the newspapers and talk politics. In this place, may be seen in turn most of the respectable inhabitants of the town. There is a public breakfast at half-past seven o'clock, and a dinner at two 6 DESCRIPTION OF THE CITY. o’clock, but to get any thing in one’s own room is impossible. New York is situated on the Peninsula which separates the Hudson and the East River. Though the situation is low and the streets are irregular, it is certainly a very beautiful city. The trees, which were in luxu- riant bloom, are planted regularly along the foot pavement ; the numerous fine churches, and the magnificent central street called the Broadway, are among its most prominent features. The houses are generally of brick, and in the Broadway are very regularly built. The streets are remarkably clean ; and, as a protection from the heat of the summer sun, each shop has an awning before it, which affords an agreeable shade to the passenger. The wharfs for shipping extend nearly all round the town. The next morning, being anxious to push on, we gladly joined the messenger charged with the English mail for Washington, who obligingly undertook to be our guide. At RARITON RIVER. 7 twelve o^clock we embarked in the steam-boat, which was to convey us to Philadelphia. This vessel was on a very magnificent scale. She had a deck like a frigate, and a cabin beau- tifully fitted up ; the seats and benches were arranged under an awning; and, had the day been fine, we should have greatly enjoyed this part of our expedition ; but unfortunately, the fog still continued. We saw nothing till we had crossed the Bay and entered the narrow winding channel which divides Staten Island from the New Jersey shore. Here the ground near the banks is low, and the houses are built in the Dutch style. The poplar, beech, and weeping willow, in their spring attire, had a beautiful effect. We passed, with the greatest rapidity, by numerous detached farms and houses, but saw few r villages and no gentlemen’s seats. The scenery, as we entered the Rariton River, con- tinued to be of a similar description, at least as far as we could distinguish objects through the odious fog, which still pursued us. This 8 NEW BRUNSWICK. was occasioned by the same fires in the woods which had so materially retarded our arrival. At a quarter past four o'clock we arrived at New Brunswick, a distance of fortv-five miles. Several coaches were in readiness to convey us to Trenton. Our good friend the messenger, who was a crafty and experienced traveller, explained to us that there was a considerable advantage in occupying the first coach, as the dust was thereby avoided, and the single beds secured at the inn where we were to sleep. The distribution of places is arranged by lot- tery, and so well did he contrive to draw, that we were all three comfortably placed in No. 1. We had several companions; a young Ameri- can, who was as rude as a bear, a vulgar old citizen, and four ladies, who were his wife, daughters, and sister-in-law. We made this interesting discovery by finding ourselves ob- liged to ask questions in self-defence. We passed over a low, flat, and highly cul- tivated country, containing few villages, but numerous detached houses. About half-way, -BRISTOL , 07 l tJi (■ Del a, ware . EMBARK ON THE DELAWARE. 9 we passed a large college and a theological school, and arrived at Trenton on the Dela- ware at nine o’clock ; having travelled about thirty-eight miles. The American stage-coaches are quite open, and have no panels ; they carry nine persons inside, but no outside passengers. The horses were excellent, and went at a good pace ; but the roads being dreadfully rough, and the carriage merely suspended on leathern straps, we were jolted almost to dislocation. On Friday the 26th, we embarked at five o'clock, on the Delaware, in the Philadelphia steam-boat. The weather was still foggy, which prevented our seeing the town of Tren- ton, and a chain bridge, which we were told was worthy our attention. About half-past seven, the weather cleared, and the fog gave place to a most beautiful day, somewhat hot- ter than my companions liked ; but I had just returned from a good roasting at Bermuda, and did not mind it. The morning mists prevented us from seeing Joseph Buonaparte's house, which we were told 10 PHILADELPHIA. was in a pretty situation. They described the owner as a complete sensualist, who had aban- doned politics for the pleasures of the table. We were greatly delighted with the banks of the Delaware, which is a magnificent river. The Pensylvania side is particularly beautiful, alternately clothed with fine woods or deco- rated with rich cultivation. At ten o’clock we arrived at Philadelphia, and, as we were to remain there only two hours, immediately proceeded to deliver our letters. The town lies very low, and has a much more antique appearance than New York ; it is built in regular squares, the mar- ket-place running through the centre. The streets are lined with trees, and several of the squares are very fine ; in one of them stands the Town-hall, where the declaration of Inde- pendence was signed in 1776. Philadelphia, on the whole, has the appearance of a well- built old English town of the time of Queen Anne. We did not see so many Quakers as we ex- PHILADELPHIA. 11 pected, but this is in some measure to be ac- counted for by the great latitude allowed in dress. Indeed the Quakers here are so tole- rant, that if their young ladies will confine themselves to plain ribbons instead of flowered, and conform with some other such easy stipu- lations, they may wear what else they please. Re-embarking at twelve, we passed two large ships, and a number of sloops : we saw also a machine for deepening the river, which, if successful, will be applied to the bar below, where there is only a depth of ten feet at low water. With such an inconvenience, it must appear extraordinary that Philadelphia should have been selected as a dock-yard ; but as considerable jealousy exists among the mari- time states, Pensyl vania was unwilling to be behind-hand with her neighbours in the pos- session of such an advantage. We landed again at Newcastle, a distance of thirty-four miles, and got into the coach, in order to proceed to Frenchtown, which, by the by, is no town at all. The country we 12 ELK RIVER. passed over was partly cultivated and partly woodland. The oak, beech, and maple, were all in luxuriant bloom; the fields were sowed with corn and other grain ; and the land, which was very low and flat, had every appear- ance of fertility. At eight we arrived, and immediately got on board the steam-boat on the Elk river. This river joins the Susquehana, w r hich runs into the Chesapeak Bay. We supped on board; and, drawing lots for our berths, my inauspicious stars placed me very near the boiler, so that between the heat of the atmo- sphere, and the vapour of the steam, I was nearly suffocated. The boat was of immense size, 160 feet long, and very commodious. There were beds in it for seventy people, yet all could not be accommodated, so numerous were the passengers. At three in the morning of Saturday the 27th, we arrived at Baltimore, and found there was just room for my companion and myself in a coach, which was to start at half-past STEAM-BOAT ON THE ELK RIVER. 13 four. It was dark, and we were tired, so that, upon this occasion, we saw nothing of Baltimore. At the appointed hour we set out in the stage with every prospect of a tedious journey. The vehicle was wretched, and the roads, as they all are in America, rough and dusty. The country over which w r e passed, (the west part of Maryland,) is hilly, and generally bar- ren, except where an occasional field diversi- fied the uninteresting prospect. 14 WASHINGTON. CHAPTER II. Washington — The Capitol — The Dock -yard — Monu- ment — Public Offices — Remarks on the Government — Church Service — Visits — Women — Indian Deputations ■ — Speech of a Chief. At length, to our great joy, we arrived at the capital of the United States, at twelve o’clock, having travelled 200 miles in forty- eight hours. On approaching Washington, the first object you encounter after passing a dreary common is the Capitol, — a magnificent building, which, from its vast size and extreme whiteness, is very striking in its appearance. Its site is high, and finely commands the town. A noble avenue, three quarters of a mile in length, leads from it to that part of Washing- ton which is completed. We drove through THE CAPITOL. 15 this, and proceeded to the principal inn ol the town, called “The Indian Queen/' Having got rid of the dust which had been intolerable throughout the journey, we went to the residence of Mr. Vaughan, the English minister, to whom we had letters ; and drove from thence to the Capitol. We entered the building by a magnificent portico, and saw the principal chamber of which the dome forms the roof. We were much struck with its im- mense size. The walls are destitute of orna- ment, if we except some pieces of sculpture re- presenting various wars and treaties with the Indians. The artist might have selected sub- jects more creditable to his country. The senate-room and chamber of representatives occupy the two wings of the edifice ; they are semicircular, lighted from the roof, and in their general appearance reminded me strongly of the Chamber of Deputies at Paris. There were desks, and many other conveniences for the members, unknown to our Houses of Parlia- ment. Being Saturday, the person whose bu- 16 THE DOCK-YARDS. siness it usually is to show the building, was absent, and we were, consequently, disappoint- ed of seeing the library, committee-rooms, and national pictures. Our next visit was to the dock-yard, which is about a mile distant from the town, and con- veniently situated on the eastern branch of the Potomac. We were admitted, without diffi- culty, by the sentry, who said, with much in- difference, that 66 He guessed we were at li- berty to see any part of it we pleased.” Of this permission, of course, I was delighted to avail myself, as it was the first opportunity I had had enjoyed of comparing the American dock-yards with establishments of the same na- ture in England. The area is about forty acres in extent, a considerable portion of which is unoccupied, although the gun-wharf and ordnance stores are contained within its bounds. The com- missioner, or captain, has a small house near the entrance. I could observe no other resi- dences belonging to officers. The workmen THE DOCK- YARD. 17 being absent, I was prevented from inspect- ing the store-houses. There were two frigates on the slips ; one, in progress of building, was to be called the Susquehana. She was constructed on the latest and most approv- ed principles of the American builders, and was to mount 60 guns. Her timbers were close together, and her shape remarkable for very full bow, and a perfectly straight side. She had a round stern, but its rake and flat- ness, combined with the judicious construction of her quarter-galleries, gave it quite the appear- ance of being square. The Potomac, another heavy and clumsy- looking 6 0 gun frigate, was hauled up on ways, in a cradle called Commodore Por- ters inclined plane ; an expedient, intended to save the expense and inconvenience of dry docks, for examining the bottoms of vessels where there is little tide. She was partly suspended by cables and partly by shores : the hauling up had been easily accom- plished, but the ground having afterwards c 18 THE DOCK- YARD. given way under her stern, the inclination of the plane had been altered, and I very much doubt whether she will ever be got down again. This, in the United States, where rigid economy is so much the order of the day, is likely to make the inclined plane very unpo- pular. I next went on board the Congress, of 38 guns ; she had been newly coppered, and was lying along-side the yard, having been lately hove down there. These were the only ships in or near Wash- ington. In this place, they have a foundry of iron-tanks, for the supply of vessels not under the rank of frigates. They have likewise a machine, containing a partial application of steam to the making of blocks. The shell is formed of several pieces which are bolted together, and said to be stronger than those which are made by the famous engine, at Portsmouth. The operation is undoubtedly much less complicated. The sheds, or rather houses, under which they build their ships, are not of an approved construction. I visited the MONUMENT. 19 mast-house, and observed that the section of a made mast of their line of battle-ships does not differ materially from that of our own. My expectations had been so much raised by the reputation which America bears in Europe with respect to maritime affairs, that I left the yard with feelings of extreme disap- pointment. As I passed out of the gates, my attention was attracted by a monument which faces the entrance. It was erected to the memory of some officers, and bore an inscrip- tion declaring it to have been mutilated by Britons at the taking of Washington. At the capture of this city, many excesses were un- doubtedly committed, but I have been assured that there are no grounds for this particular accusation. Let it however in justice be ob- served, that this is the only public inscription or memorial which I saw in the United States, of a nature calculated to wound the feelings of a stranger. We extended our drive to the president’s house and the different public offices, which (' 9 20 APPEARANCE OF WASHINGTON. are in general very handsome buildings, but look quite solitary in this wilderness of a town. In planning Washington, the Americans cer- tainly reckoned without their host. A central piece of land was decreed by the States for the purpose of building an immense metro- polis. The wood was cut down, the streets were marked out, and the public buildings erected ; but it never occurred to the projec- tors that the situation presented no facilities for commerce, and that the circumjacent land was unfit for agriculture. Nobody would in- habit such a town by choice, those who are obliged by their avocations to make the ca- pital their residence, inhabit a suburb called George's Town, which is more agreeably situ- ated on the river Potomac. On our return to the inn, we found a gentleman, at whose house we had left a letter of introduction, who was kind enough not only to ask us to ■f dinner, but offered to take us to a party at the French Minister's that evening. The prospect of seeing a little good com- DINNER-rARTY. 21 pany was quite refreshing, and we gladly ac- cepted his offer. During dinner, the conver- sation chiefly turned upon the commission which was then employed in settling the price of the slaves taken by the English during the war, and we heard a very interesting account of that affair. It appears that the Americans founded their claim on a point of grammar in a clause which they had the cunning to insert in the last treaty of peace with England. The question was referred to the arbitration of the Russian cabinet, which decided in fa- vour of America. We also heard an account of the debates and discussions in the last meeting of Congress. During the session, a period of six months, three great questions were agitated : — The first, a question of legislature ; the second, whether they should send deputies to the congress at Panama, to which a representative of each of the American Republics had been invited. The third, related to a proposed alteration in the constitution. The object of this latter was 22 ELECTION OF PRESIDENT. to vest the election of the president entirely in the people. By the present law, every man in the United States has a vote, but to obtain the presidency, the first candidate must have more voters than all the rest put together ; in de- fault of this, the election devolves upon the representatives. Thus, though General Jack- son had a considerable majority of popular votes, he had not enough to outnumber all the other candidates, and the election going to the representatives, the weaker parties united their forces, and Adams was elected. These three questions gave rise to endless discussions, each member thinking it necessary to deliver his own sentiments in detail. The questions were eventually referred to com- mittees, Congress being unable, after all, to decide them. At the conclusion of the ses- sion, it was resolved that a commissioner or deputy, should be sent to the congress of Re- publics at Panama ; but it was too late, for the unhealthy season had commenced. Upon the other two questions, the committee stated, AMERICAN SENATE. 23 in their report, that no two individuals of their number were of the same opinion, and that it was impossible to come to any conclusion. The construction and regulations of the American senate, seem but ill adapted to the dispatch of public business. The conflicting interests of the different states which are repre- sented — the anxiety of the members to deliver their sentiments, and the diffuseness of their long-winded orations, which wander into the most extraneous and irrelevant matter, fre- quently protract the discussion of unimpor- tant subjects to debates of almost interminable duration. It must not, however, be supposed that the spirit of party, or disputes of local interest, have broken or impaired the great compact which binds them together. The slightest symptoms of danger to their “ Uni- on, 0 whether arising from internal disaffection or foreign aggression, instantly tightens the social cord, and diffuses a high feeling of patriotism throughout the vast community. That the United States have more civil and 24 THE GOVERNMENT. religious liberty than ourselves, there can be no doubt ; the power is more in the hands of the people, and their government approaches as near a commonwealth as any recorded in history. The experiment of a democracy upon so great a scale was a bold conception, consi- dering the fate which has hitherto invariably attended all systems of popular government — a conception worthy of a mighty mind, worthy of the philosophic statesman, who “ eripuit ccelo fulmen sceplrumqne tyrannis ” How long this vast machine will continue to work, is a matter of interesting speculation. Hitherto, the Americans have enjoyed the advantage of occupying a country where the evils of an overflowing population have not been felt ; where every man is either a farmer or a mer- chant ; where there are no idlers ; and, more than all, where there are no poor ; for vile in- deed must be the American who cannot in some capacity earn an ample maintenance. When, however, the means of carrying off* THE GOVERNMENT. 25 a superfluous population begin to fail, which at some period must be the case; when the sated ambition of wealth gives place to the love of distinction and power ; and when the struggle for superiority between the young and old States gives rise to disturbances, symptoms of which have already appeared, we may ex- pect to see the disadvantages of a popular go- vernment. We have already observed how in- decision and jealousy fetter the hands of the executive power. The violence and illiberality of the many ; their inability to judge of most legislative acts, or to extend their views be- yond the question of present advantage, are to be dreaded in disturbed times, as dangerous to the security of property and the stability of the state. At eight in the evening, we went to our party in George’s Town, which had all the agreeable characteristics of an European as- sembly. Singing, and finally dancing, were the amusements of the evening. Every body complained of the insufferable heat, but 26 AN AMERICAN CLERGYMAN. danced on notwithstanding ; the American young ladies holding a very respectable com- petition with their European entertainers, in point of dress, beauty, and conversational powers. The next day (Sunday) a gentleman to whom we had been introduced, was so good as to call and take us to church ; the building, which was small, was the only episcopal establishment in the city. We saw the pre- sident of the United States, and Mr. Rush, at their devotions. In manner and appearance, the clergyman bore a strong resemblance to Liston in the character of Mawworm. The Americans have altered, and I think not im- proved, some parts of the Liturgy. The sermon was worthy of the preacher ; it treated of the oppression which the United States formerly endured while under the yoke of England, whose downfaL discomfiture, and damnation he confidently predicted. He re- ferred to Young, whose poetry he quoted copiously, and then diverged into an impious CAPTURE OF WASHINGTON. 27 allegory, which he fathered upon a Welsh curate. But as in no English church such allusions would be tolerated, I strongly sus- pect that the blasphemous absurdity was the produce of his own brain. I was sorry to learn that this man was considered much superior to American preachers in general. We afterwards paid some visits ; one to a Virginian family. The gentleman’s daughter was considered a beauty and a great fortune, having nearly fifteen thousand dollars. From New York to the southward, the wo- men are in general pale, with slight figures. The higher ranks resemble in manner the middling classes in England. It is long be- fore the ear is reconciled to the nasal twang of their pronunciation. Politics and travelling form the usual topics of conversation, in which the ladies take an active part. The events of the last war, and the capture of Washing- ton in particular, I found to be a frequent topic of conversation. The attention of Eu- rope was so completely engrossed by the 28 CAPTURE OF WASHINGTON. mighty conflict, which decided its fate on the plains of Waterloo, that the Washington campaign was regarded with comparative in- difference. At any other period, this brilliant enterprize, which placed in our hands the capital of America, and humbled her pride, would, have filled the world with its renown, and raised the hero who executed it to the highest rank of military glory. It was satisfactory to me, as a naval officer, to discover that the Americans are fully aware to whom the merit of planning this daring expedition belongs. They are fully aware that the conception of the undertaking origi- nated in the brave admiral, whose skilful and effective co-operation so materially contribut- ed to its success. Having amused myself by taking a few rough sketches of the town, I dined with Mr. Vaughan, the English minister, and in the evening went to a tea-party, where I had an- other opportunity of observing the manners of American society. I here began to think DEPUTATION OF INDIANS. 29 the paleness of the ladies interesting, and the drawl of their speech became gradually less disagreeable. In our way home, we called upon one of our fellow-travellers, and during the visit the Au- ditor for Foreign Affairs called. He gave us a very interesting account of three deputations of Indians that had come up with petitions to Congress, and had been encamped for the last two or three months near the capital. He dwelt much upon their eloquence, and the hardness of their fate. One “ talk” which he had himself heard delivered by the orator of the deputation of the Seminole tribe, he re- commended me to get from the newspapers, where it was well reported. The following brief extracts will give a general notion of the style of Indian eloquence. After expressing to the Minister of War the desires of the Indians to have their territory extended to the Big Swamp, the Chief con- tinued thus : — “ You say our great father,” (meaning the president of the United States,) 30 INDIAN ELOQUENCE. 66 does not wish to oppress his red children. We believe it, and that he will keep the treaty, and give us more land. Brother, you say that our great father owns a great country beyond the Big River,* towards the setting sun, and that he is willing to give us a part of it, if we will go there ; and he advises us to send some of our chiefs with the Muscogees to look at it, and bring us back word what sort of country it is ; but we have already said we did not intend to move again, and we will not go with them. 66 We have no friends, and the people of that country are strangers to us. We will not involve ourselves in the troubles of the Mus- cogees. We are a separate people, and have nothing in common with them. u Most of us were born in the land we now inhabit; and of that, we claim the undisturbed possession. In that land, our blood was first spilt; it has sunk deep into the earth, and * Mississippi. INDIAN ELOQUENCE. 31 made the country dear to us. We have heard that the Spaniards have sold the country to the American. This they had no right to do, the land was not theirs but belonged to the Seminole Indians. 44 Brothers, we have come here to talk with our great father concerning this matter, and to have it finally arranged. We have not yet seen our great father. We have come many days 5 travel to see him, and do not wish to return without shaking hands with him . 55 After enumerating some more grievances, he went on to say : — 44 Brother, you tell us that our great father wishes to place a school in our nation, to teach our children to read and write. We do not wish one at all. We do not believe that the Great Spirit intended that we should know how to read and write ; for if he had intended this, he would have given us the knowledge as early as he gave it to the white people. Now it is too late ; the white people 32 INDIAN ELOQUENCE. have gained an advantage we can never re- cover, and it is better for us to remain as we are, red men, and live in our own way/' Here follows a curious tradition of the means by which the white people obtained this ad- vantage, and he concluded in these words : — “ Brother, the business upon which we have come here is very important to our nation, and we wish to have it settled soon, that we may return to our homes, and make the hearts of our people glad by telling them what we have done/' DEPARTURE FROM WASHINGTON 33 CHAPTER III. Departure from Washington — An itinerant Mechanic — Inn at Baltimore — Deputation of Indians — Museum — Mammoth — National Monument — Town of Baltimore and surrounding Scenery — Ladies — Theatre — English Consul’s invitation — Ship-building at Baltimore — So- ciety — Spot where General Ross fell — Chesapeak Bay — Arrival at Philadelphia — Dock-yard, and Ships on the stocks — Exhibition of Pictures — Profusion of marble in the streets — Interior of the houses — Water- works for the supply of the town — Mode of passing the evening. Monday the 29th, at seven o^clock in the morning, we left Washington by the mail, and retraced our steps over the same uninteresting country. We had one companion in the coach, a Vermont mechanic. This man with his little wares had been down the Ohio and Mississippi to New Orleans, and having disposed of them, and made some money by his speculation, was D 34 INN AT BALTIMORE.— DEPUTATION OF INDIANS. returning by the sea-coast to his home, having in six months travelled many thousand miles. He belonged to a class frequently to be met with in all parts of the United States. At one o’clock, we arrived at Baltimore, and found, for a wonder, a very comfortable inn, fitted up with warm baths, and other conve- niences that are luxuries seldom to be met with in America. Here we met the very same deputation of Indians, the account of whom had so much interested me. They had been sent home by the way of New York, on pur- pose to impress them with an idea of the great- ness and splendour of that city, and from thence they were to proceed to Georgia. One of them, however, falling sick, their attendant determined to embark them at this place. They were tall, athletic men, dressed most fantastically. Tucasee Mathla, or Hicks, the chief, was as large a man as ever I beheld. We saw but little of them, as they confined themselves chiefly to their own apartment. They had an interpreter in their suite, who / h f' first? from Baltiwwmtv Wmkzmfon, THE MUSEUM.— THE MAMMOTH. 35 was born and bred in England, and still re- tained the dress of his country, though he had been naturalized an Indian. Having delivered our letters, we went to see the Museum. It is a small establishment, and, I believe, is private property. The Mam- moth, which was the principal object of our curiosity, is indeed of wonderful size ; but, like most things which one has previously heard much of, it fell short of our expectation. It was not so much larger than the elephant, as we had anticipated. We afterwards walked round the town. In one of the squares, there is a monument, of no pretension in point of size, to the memory of those who fell at the defence of Baltimore, when attacked by General Ross after the cap- ture of Washington. We here felt the annoyance of wandering about a town without knowing any of its in- habitants. You picture to yourself in every house a pleasant family ; the father hospitable, the mother accomplished, and the daughters d 2 36 NATIONAL MONUMENT. angelic, according to the style and appearance of the mansion. After a two o'clock dinner at the table d’hote, of which 150 persons partook, I walked out, and was much delighted by the view which I obtained from a sort of park, near the fine monument erected to the memory of Washington. Beyond the city, the river and distant plains were visible, and the hues of a glowing sunset added much to the beauty of the scene. I think Baltimore is the prettiest city I saw in the United States. It is not so large as Philadelphia or New York ; but in neatness, cleanliness, and regularity of building, it surpasses them. It is a pros- perous city ; though, like Philadelphia, its com- merce has suffered from the great advantage which New York has obtained by establish- ing canal communication with the interior. Baltimore is seldom visited by English, but, I believe, frequently by French vessels; the dress of the ladies is quite Parisian in its taste, and tends to confirm this opinion. Be LADIES. — THEATRE. — CON SUL’S INVITATION. 37 it also observed that in Baltimore I saw more pretty faces than in any other town in the Union. In the evening we went to the Theatre. The house is neat and small ; the play was the “ Wonder” in which Miss Kelly (not Fanny Kelly) performed the part of Violante, and was supported by an American actor with amazing spirit. Tuesday, 30 th, the English consul called on us, and obligingly invited us to an early dinner with him, previous to our departure by the steam-boat, which was fixed for that evening. He had asked Mr. Carrol to meet us, but he was unfortunately engaged. Mr. Carrol is the grandfather of the Marchioness of Wel- lesley, and one of the three surviving persons who signed the deed of Independence.* There was to be in the evening a large party at a charming villa in the neighbourhood, where all the beauty and fashion of Baltimore were to as- semble on a strawberry-picking expedition, and # Since I visited Baltimore, two of the three are dead, and Mr. Carrol is the only survivor. 38 SHIP-BUILDING.— SOCIETY. our kind friend particularly urged us to attend it. We would fain have complied; but, alas! our time was limited, and we could not break through our arrangements. Baltimore is famous for its ship-building ; and being anxious to see some specimens of it, we went down to the part of the town where the yards are situated. There we saw a schooner building for the purpose of smuggling on the coasts of China. Every thing was sacrificed to swiftness, and I think she was the most lovely vessel I ever saw. We visited several yards ; and I met with a builder who had a book of drafts of all the fastest-sailing schooners built in Baltimore, which had so much puzzled our cruisers during the war. It was the very thing I wanted ; but, after an hour spent in entreaty, I could not induce him to part with one leaf of the precious volume. Though provoked at his refusal, I could not help admiring the public spirit which dictated his conduct, for the offer I made him must have been tempting to a person in his station of life. At dinner, the conversation occasionally re- GENERAL ROSS. — CHESAPEAK BAY. 39 laxing from graver topics, turned upon the lighter interests of society. We discovered that Baltimore was not without its share of scandal, and had additional reason to regret our inability to attend the strawberry picking . At five, we embarked in the steam-boat, on the Patapsco, and saw r North Point, where Ge- neral Ross landed, in 1814, to attack the town after taking Washington. We could distin- guish the ditch which was run across to defend the city. Here it was that Ross fell. The next in command did not think fit to advance ; and the expedition failed, to the great joy of the people of Baltimore, who do not disguise the fact that they were all prepared to run awav at the first onset. •/ The river, in this part, is very picturesque, with its finely-wooded and verdant banks. The prospect, on entering the Chesapeak Bay, was striking to the greatest degree. The numerous ships, the stillness of the waters, the setting sun shedding its rays on the surrounding bea- cons, and the rapid course of the steam-boat, the ample deck of which was covered with many 40 ARRIVAL AT PHILADELPHIA.— DOCKYARD. well-dressed and some beautiful passengers, combined to produce a most enchanting effect. At twelve o’clock on that night, after a wretched drive of sixteen miles across that part of Maryland which I have before described, we reached Newcastle at four in the morning of the 31st of May, Here we again took boat, but found no beds on board ; and not having closed our eyes all the previous night, by the time we arrived at Philadelphia, which was at eight o’clock, we were 66 pretty considerably” tired. Having dressed and breakfasted at a very handsome hotel, we delivered our letters to the Consul, who very civilly accompanied us to the dock-yard and introduced us to the captain. Here we saw, on the stocks, the Pennsyl- vania, a three-decker, which is said by the Americans to be the largest ship in the world. But 1 believe her scantling to be very nearly the same as that of our Nelson. There were not more than twenty people employed about her ; but every thing was in readiness, so that on an emergency she could soon be launched. DOCK-YARD. 41 The Pennsylvania has a round stern, and mounts 135 guns, including those on her gangways. There was also a round-sterned sixty-gun frigate on the stocks. I was struck by the remarkable circumstance of her having a trough of rock- salt running fore and aft her kelson, and learned that this application was supposed to possess a chymical property of preserving the wood from decay. She was built on the mo- del of the unfinished frigate at Washington, and appeared to be nearly completed. There w'ere no small vessels building. The extent of this yard is less than that of Washington. The ships are obliged to take in their guns and stores below the town, on ac- count of the bar, where there is only a depth of ten feet at low water. I saw the tanks in- tended for the frigate, which were made to form a perfect platform ; the wing tanks being fitted to the shape of the vessel. Very few people are employed in this yard, as the ships remain on the stocks until required for service. A mistaken notion has gone abroad as to the Americans calling such ships as the Penn- 42 EXHIBITION OF PICTURES. syivania, seventy-fours, which at first sight, and to one unacquainted with the reason, bears the appearance of intentional deception. But this is explained by the peculiar wording of the Act of Congress, by which a fund was voted for the gradual increase of the Ameri- can Navy. In it the largest vessels were de- scribed as seventy-fours ; but great latitude being allowed to the Commissioners of the Navy, they built them on a much more ex- tended scale. The only official mode of re- gistering these is as seventy-fours, but for all purposes of comparison, they must be classed according to the guns which they actually car- ry, and in this light they are considered by all liberal Americans. From the Dock-yard we walked to the Exhibition of Pictures, which are arranged in a very neat building. As this was about the period at which the gentlemen send their pictures to the annual exhibition, we had an opportunity of judging of the American taste in that department of the fine arts. But, alas ! they have none — positively none ! There were INTERIOR OF THE HOUSES. 43 two or three works of the old masters, belong- ing to Joseph Buonaparte, and a picture of Napoleon crossing the Alps, by David ; the rest were wretched copies of the modern Eng- lish historical school, diversified by a display of various portraits, one worse than another, chiefly of florid citizens in white neck-cloths, and coats with bright metal buttons. We were much surprised that so trumpery an exhibition should be an object of admiration in Philadelphia, which is one of the most polish- ed and enlightened cities in the United States. We were struck by the profusion of marble which adorned the streets : the foot-pavement, which is remarkably broad, owing to the houses having no areas, is edged with white marble ; the steps before the doors of the houses are of the same material, and decorated by wrought iron railings, with bright plated knobs. The interior of the houses is extremely 1 commodious and handsome ; the apartments are large and well distributed ; nor is any con- trivance omitted that can tend to mitigate the extreme heats of the summer. All the floors 44 WATER-WORKS. are covered with mats of the finest texture, and the rooms contain a quantity of handsome old furniture in the French taste. After dinner, when the heat of the day, in the course of which the thermometer had stood at 86°, had in some measure subsided, we drove out about two or three miles from the town, to see the works which supply it with water. They are on the banks of the Schuylkil, and constructed upon the simplest principles. The river is dammed up, and made to turn a wheel, to which is attached a forcing-pump. By this means, an elevated reservoir is filled, which supplies the whole town. The situation is deservedly celebrated for its beauty. On our return we called on our friends to bid them farewell. The evening is the usual time of visiting in Philadelphia ; the hour of dinner is early, and it is the fashion to sit out of doors on the steps and under the trees in front of the houses, to enjoy the refreshing coolness of the evening. WA.TE.1BL WORM OF PH XL ABE, RIP Hi A OH TELE SCHUTLIHj DELAWARE RIVER. 45 CHAPTER IV. The Delaware river — Scenery of Staten Island and New Jersey — Arrival at New York — Theatre — Kean, the actor — Society at New York — Anecdote — Environs of New York — Museum — Episcopalian Church — Religion in America — Introduction to a celebrated Beauty — Dinner-party — Manners of the Men and Women — Phra- seology. The next day (1st of June) we embarked in the morning on the beautiful Delaware ; the day was fine, and we highly enjoyed the fresh air on the water. The last six. miles to Trenton we performed by land, as the tide did not permit a nearer approach. Proceeding on our journey, we crossed New Jersey through a cloud of dust, and were glad to get to dinner on board the steam-boat at New Brunswick, which immediately started for New York. The evening was lovely, and 46 ARRIVAL AT NEW YORK. we had an opportunity of admiring the fair and soft scenery of Staten Island and New As I have before remarked, the character of the landscape in these parts is very Dutch, and the inhabitants adhere to their original dress and language with great tenacity. The flatness of the country which we had traversed was remarkable : we had not passed over a single hill, up which the horses could not trot. New York rose finely on the shores of the Bay, and the haze of evening surrounding the city, gave it the appearance of standing in the midst of the waters. It reminded me of Venice. We arrived at six o’clock, and established ourselves in the City hotel, where I purposed remaining till the 6th, allowing myself ten days to get back to Halifax by the way of Boston. We went to the theatre in the evening, and saw Mr. Kean perform the Stranger. He acted the part with great ap- INTRODUCTION TO A LADY. 47 plause, and the audience appeared to be particularly respectable. Our time at New York passed very agree- ably ; we had letters to persons composing the best society of the town, and, such is the kindness and hospitality that prevail, that one introduction is sufficient to secure to an Englishman a general and cordial reception. Most unfortunately, we had arrived at an unpropitious season, when the heats of the summer had driven many of the inhabitants to the North. As there was no time to be lost, we delivered our letters ; and our first introduction to a New York family was, on our parts, impudent enough. We inquired for the Lady who presided over the house : she was not at home. What was to be done ? Our time was too precious to be wasted in ceremony. We heard music. Was the young Lady at home? Yes! The impulse was irresistible, and in we walked. We found an extremely fine and interesting- 48 KEAN, THE ACTOR. looking girl, who was uncommonly pleasing and communicative. She said that nearly every body was out of town ; but that her family would do all in their power to render our stay at new York agreeable, and would imme- diately set about to arrange some parties for our amusement. We afterwards discovered that she had not the slightest conception who we were, having forwarded our letter of in- troduction to her sister. At New York, the character of an Englishman is a passport, and it was to this circumstance that we owed the facility of our entrance, and the kindness of our reception. We went that evening to see Richard the Third. The heat of the house was suffocating, and the excellent performance of Kean hardly compensated for the inconvenience. The next day we repeated our visit, and were introduced to the rest of the family, who received us with the greatest kindness, and invited us to return in the evening. We dined with an English merchant at his country- THE MUSEUM. 49 house, about four miles from the town. The environs are thickly interspersed with villas, the generality of which are constructed upon a very paltry scale. Both houses and gardens are arranged without taste or neatness ; indeed, horticulture seems to be a science utterly unknown in America. Returning in the evening to our kind friends, we set out to see the Museum, where we arriv- ed after having refreshed ourselves frequently by the way at the shops where soda-water is the only article for sale. These shops, in the great heats, are places of general resort; and during our visits to them we had constant op- portunities of extending the sphere of our ac- quaintance. The streets were brilliantly lighted, and crowds of well-dressed people paraded the avenues which line them, to enjoy the cool breezes of the evening. The museum, which is one of the principal sights in New York, con- tains nothing remarkable. The natural curio- sities appeared to be of a paltry description and E 50 EPISCOPALIAN CHURCH. the pictures, chiefly of naval engagements, were wretchedly executed and utterly regard- less of historical truth. At ten we returned to our inn, delighted with the cordiality we had experienced from the gentlemen to whom we had been introduced and fascinated by the charms of the ladies. On Sunday, we accompanied some friends to divine service. They took us to the Epis- copalian church, which is the fashionable place of worship, that they might have an op- portunity of showing us the principal inha- bitants. This was not the church which they generally frequented ; indeed, for aught I know, they might have been of a different be- lief; but in America, religion, I am sorry to say, seems, as far as I have observed, to form but a secondary consideration. The laxity of their notions upon this subject may perhaps be attributable to the circumstance, peculiar to the United States, — that of their not having any established religion. One of the highest offices is filled by an Unitarian, and so unlimited is AMERICAN SOCIETY. 51 religious toleration in this country, that all American citizens are eligible to that exalted station, whether Christian, Jew, or Mahometan. The church was a beautiful building ; part of the service was chanted, and some of the singing was extremely fine. The clergyman was an old man, and both read and preached better than the person I had seen officiating at Washington. With unceasing assiduity, our friends pointed out to us all the most re- markable persons of the town, whether beau- ties, heiresses, warriors, or statesmen. Amongst the former, we remarked some of the more florid countenances of the North ; for, as I have before observed, the complexion of the women in the southern parts of America is almost in- variably pale. The upper classes appeared in general to be extremely well-dressed. In American society, there is far less for- mality and restraint than is found in that of Europe ; but I must observe, that notwith- standing the freedom of intercourse which is allowed, the strictest propriety prevails both in e 2 52 AMERICAN SOCIETY. conversation and demeanour. It is not only permitted to young women, both married and single, to walk out in the morning without a servant, but to be accompanied by a gentle- man. Walking arm-in-arm is not generally customary, so that the pleasure of the excur- sion is frequently damped , when the streets are crowded, by being compelled to walk in the gutter. I had an opportunity of witnessing an in- stance of the cordial and unreserved communi- cation which exists among the upper classes of this delightful city. During the course of a walk, which I had the honour to take with a young lady, I happened to express a wash to see a celebrated beauty, whose charms I had heard frequently quoted. My companion im- mediately conducted me to her residence, and introduced me to her, although it was evident their acquaintance was very slight. The hour of dinner at New York is two o’clock, which is convenient to mercantile habits, and suitable to the heat of their AMERICAN SOCIETY. 53 climate. The tea-parties form the principal and most social meal; great importance is attached to them. I cannot omit this opportunity of men- tioning another singular deviation from Euro- pean habits. Having received a formal in- vitation to dinner from a 66 citizen of credit and renown/’ we repaired to his abode at the appointed hour, and sat down to dinner with a number of persons, amongst whom were some ladies. We were unacquainted with any of the party except our entertainer, and we were beginning to make some internal reflections upon the strange appearance of things in gene- ral, when the unceremonious manner of some of the guests withdrew the veil of mystery, and informed us that we were dining at a table d’hote. We were, however, treated with the greatest civility by the promiscuous party, who drank the King's health out of compliment to our nation. The manners of the men, though they may appear rough and coarse to a fastidious ob- 54 AMERICAN SOCIETY,— ANECDOTE. server, are cordial, frank, and open. It has been the fashion among travellers to accuse the Americans of an habitual violation of vera- city in conversation ; but, as far as my obser- vation went, this accusation is without foun- dation. Their thirst for information might be construed, by a person disposed to criticise, into an inquisitiveness bordering upon imperti- nence. The manners of the women are so easy and natural, that they soon dissipate the unpleasing impression which is generally ex- cited at first by the drawl of their pronuncia- tion and the peculiarities of their idiom. Some of their expressions and metaphors are so singular as to be nearly unintelligible, and lead to strange misconceptions. Upon one occasion, the conversation turned upon a lady who was described as being 66 quite prostrated.” On inquiring what had happened to her, I learned that being 66 quite prostrated” was being very ill in bed. Many of their expressions are derived from ANECDOTE. 55 their mercantile habits. A young lady, talk- ing of the most eligible class of life fiom which to choose a husband, declared that, for her part, she was all for the commissions . This elicited from my companion, the major, one of his best bows, in the fond presumption that she alluded to the military profession — not at all ; the sequel of her conversation explained, but too clearly, that Commission Merchants were the fortunate objects of her preference. 56 VILLAGE OF HOBOKEN. CHAPTER V. Village of Hoboken — American Aldermen — Shops — Tea parties — Civility of the Americans to the English — Na- tional Character — The Castle-garden — Dock-yard of New York — Frigate on the Stocks, and peculiarity in her construction — The Ohio, a two-decker — Mistaken policy in Marine Affairs — Steam-frigate — Difficulty in Manning the American Navy. One of the principal places of public resort is the village of Hoboken, on the New Jersey shore, where a beautiful walk, extending for two or three miles along the bank of the Hud- son, is kept in the finest order, and commands a noble view of the city on the opposite shore. American aldermen have the same predilection for turtle, which is supposed to characterize our own ; and the groves of Hoboken annually witness a vast consumption of green fat at the celebration of their civic festivities. SHOPS— TEA-PARTIES, 57 Our mornings were usually occupied with visits and commissions from Halifax, for the purchase of various articles, as the shops here are famous, and second to none that I have seen, excepting those of London and Paris. In New York, the duties on importation are com- paratively trifling, and the goods of every country find a ready sale. Our evenings were generally passed at tea- parties, to which we were invited by our nu- merous friends. During this season of the year, the heat is so excessive* that it is cus- tomary to sit out of doors on the steps that ornament the entrances of the houses. On these occasions, friends assemble in the most agreeable and unceremonious manner. Al! sorts of cooling beverages and excellent con- fectionary are handed round, and the greatest good humour and gaiety prevail. Nothing can be more unfounded than the notion which is generally entertained, that a feeling of rancour and animosity against England and Englishmen pervades the Uni- 58 CIVILITY OF THE AMERICANS, ted States. I am at a loss to guess by what peculiar mark we are known ; but it is cer- tain that an Englishman is always dis- tinguished at the very first glance by the Americans; and I beg to subscribe a grateful acknowledgment that the discovery invaria- bly ensured to me civility, and frequently led to offices of kindness and good-will. It has been too much the fashion with our press to sneer at these hard-headed Repub- licans. Though vilified in our journals, and ridiculed upon our stage, they will be found, upon a nearer inspection, to be brave, intelli- gent, kind hearted, and unprejudiced : though impressed with an ardent, perhaps an exagge- rated, admiration of their own country, they speak of others without envy, malignity, or detraction. Secure in their native strength, and intent upon the interests of the western world, they pay comparatively but little at- tention to Transatlantic politics ; and though they laugh to scorn the notion of European CASTLE-GARDEN. 59 aggression, they pity and lament the spirit in which it is frequently menaced. On the evening of our departure, we escorted a party of ladies to the castle-garden and north battery, which form a place of amusement in the style of Vauxhall. The battery, which is now no longer used as a point of defence, is situated on a rocky island connected with the town by a bridge. The illuminations, bands of music, and multitudes of people, give it the appearance of an en- chanted castle. The seabreeze, with delicious coolness, breathes its freshness from the bay. Refreshments of every kind are to be obtained at moderate cost ; nor must a favourite Ame- rican beverage called mint julep, a sort of punch, pass unnoticed in the catalogue of delicacies, with which the place abounds. At ten o'clock, the festive scene broke up. We conducted the ladies home, and shortly afterwards, the fatal hour of separation arriving, with sincere regret and some more 60 DOCK-YARD. poignant sensations, we bade our kind friends an affectionate farewell. During my stay at New York, I went to visit the dock-yard. It is situated at Brock- lyn, a considerable suburb, separated from the city by the East River. The position of this dock-yard is admirably selected, as the water is so deep that it is accessible to the largest vessels. I had letters to Commodore Chauncey, the captain of the yard ; but, as he was unfor- tunately absent, an officer kindly undertook to be my guide. This yard is not much larger than that of Philadelphia, but in a state of far greater activity. I was struck with the confusion and disorder which prevailed in every direction, and was informed that it was in consequence of the preparations for fitting out two ships, the Brandywine sixty-gun frigate, and the Boston twenty-gun sloop of war, (both round- sterned,) which were ordered for service. I could not help reflecting that, in Portsmouth FRIGATE ON THE STOCKS. 61 dock-yard, twenty such ships might be fitted for sea without occasioning the smallest ap- pearance of extraordinary exertion. Only one vessel, a sixty-gun frigate, was building. I went on board the Boston, which was alongside the yard ; her upper deck had the appearance of a frigate, and she had a poop. In the construction of the lower deck, I observed a very ingenious improvement : to avoid the weakness resulting from the break, which is always made in the after-part of the lower decks of vessels of this description, in order to give greater accommodation to the officers, it was laid so as to form a plane in- clining towards the stern, and by this method, strength was united with convenience. She was stowed with casks, but so roomy was her hold, that there was sufficient space to pass between them and the lower deck. By this means, she was enabled to dispense with hatches, which rendered the deck additionally solid and compact. She had six months' stores embarked, and riggers v 7 ere employed in fitting 621 THE OHIO, A TWO-DECKER. her out ; but she had no officers nor men on board, as, according to the American regula- tions, neither are appointed until vessels are hauled off to their moorings, and ready for sea. I next went on board the Ohio, a two- decker, carrying 102 guns, which w r as lying in ordinary, alongside the yard, but not housed over. A more splendid ship I never beheld ; she had a poop and guns along her gangways ; the guns of her lower deck were mounted, and all her standing rigging was on board ; she was wall-sided, and, like all the American ships, her bows projected aloft : this practice, however, it is intended to discontinue in fu- ture, as it is found to render their ships ex- tremely uneasy when at anchor. I was filled with astonishment at the negligence which permitted so fine a ship to remain exposed to the ruinous assaults of so deleterious a climate. She has only been built seven years, and, from want of common attention and care, is already MISTAKEN POLICY IN MARINE AFFAIRS. falling rapidly into decay. I afterwards learned that this vessel was an instance of the cunning, I will not call it wisdom, which frequently ac- tuates the policy of the Americans. They fit out one of the finest specimens of their ship- building in a most complete and expensive style, commanded by their best officers, and manned with a war-complement of their choicest seamen. She proceeds to cruize in the Mediterranean, where she falls in with the fleets of European powers, exhibits before them her magnificent equipment, displays her vari- ous perfections, and leaves them impressed with exaggerated notions of the maritime power of the country which sent her forth. She returns to port, having effected her object; and such is the parsimony of the marine de- partment, that she is denied the common expenses of repair. I must, however, observe that these expenses are very considerable from the total want of docks ; in consequence of which they are obliged to be repaired when 64 MISTAKEN POLICY IN MARINE AFFAIRS hove down ; an operation of immense diffi- culty. Another peculiarity in American vessels is the flatness of their decks, the object of which is to prevent the ship's sides from being forced out by the necessary flattening of an arched deck, in consequence of the weight to which it is frequently subjected. The lee-guns are also by this means more easily worked. I next went on board the Franklin, of eighty- six guns, the deck of which they were employ- ed in tarring ; and, although* an immense ship, she looked quite small after seeing the Ohio. There was another line-of-battle ship laid up in ordinary, without a poop (the Wash- ington). Neither of these ships was housed over. There were no small vessels building. Here I saw the Fulton steam-frigate. She was rigged, and her sails bent for the exercise of raw^ recruits for the navy. She is con- structed on the plan of a ship cut in halves longitudinally. The two sections are united DIFFICULTY OF MANNING THE NAVY. 65 by the beams of the decks, and the engine which propels her, is placed in the centre. Her bow is planked round, and has a cut- water affixed to it. She is fitted to go either forwards or backwards, and for this purpose has four rudders, two at each extremity. Her sides are five feet thick, and built of live oak. She is considered as a complete failure ; the projector, Fulton, having died before the engine was completed. She is not painted, and has altogether a most awkward and unnatural appearance. The machinery was not on board when I saw her. I am authorized by general opinion in thinking that, even had the builder lived to terminate his work, she would never have succeeded. Here I had an opportunity of observing the extreme difficulty which the Americans ex- perience in manning their navy. A large bounty is offered by the government to sea- men, but it is found inadequate to induce them to enter the service in sufficient numbers. r 66 DIFFICULTY OF MANNING THE NAVY. In England, no bounty is given, and sailors are at liberty to select the ship in which they choose to serve. This was found to be im- practicable in the United States, in conse- quence of the excessive desertion ; and it be- came necessary to fit up the Fulton as a gene- ral receiving ship, where men are entered for the service of the navy, and kept under strict surveillance. This vessel is commanded by a captain ; and to such straits are they re- duced for seamen, that she is completely fitted out for sea, with masts, yards, and sails for the purpose of drilling raw recruits from the in- land states and converting them into sailors. It happened, that while I was in the yard, the officer of the rendezvous brought up his report. In the course of that day, he had procured only two men, one of whom was a landsman. I was assured that he was well satisfied with this wretched acquisition, which surprised me the more as I was aware that the Brandywine and Boston were fitting out, and DIFFICULTY OF MANNING THE NAVY. 67 that they were greatly in want of hands. This scarcity of men is by no means confined to their ships of war; American merchantmen are well known to be principally manned by foreign seamen. 68 UNITED STATES’ MARITIME POWER. CHAPTER VI. Maritime Power of the United States — Delusive Expecta- tions — Mr. Haliburton’s Arguments against the Proba- bility that America will ever become a great Naval Power — English North- American Colonies a Nursery for Seamen — Opinions maintained by the Atlantic States. There certainly exists a strong impression among the nations of Europe, that the mari- time power of the United States is rapidly augmenting, and that the day is not far dis- tant when she may dispute with Great Britain the sovereignty of the seas. Perhaps this ex- traordinary notion was derived from the delu- sive brilliancy of certain naval successes ob- tained by the Americans during the last war with England. The superficial inquirer was content to read in the Gazette of the capture DELUSIVE EXPECTATIONS. 69 of English by American frigates, and was filled with wonder and alarm at the rising power of the formidable Republic ; it was enough for him that a British ship was taken ; nor did he appreciate the circumstance that what was styled in America a frigate, ap- proached much nearer to the dimensions of a seventy-four. How rapidly do these flimsy apprehensions, which the vanity and policy of the Americans have so diligently encouraged, vanish on a nearer inspection ! With regard to the probabilities of America becoming a great maritime power, I cannot do better than quote the arguments so ably concentrated upon the subject by Mr. Haliburton, in a pamphlet on the Importance of the Colonies, which I regret to find is at present confined to private circulation. “ It ought not to be taken for granted (as it unfortunately is by many) that America must inevitably become a great maritime power. Many predict that she will be so, because she possesses a great extent of coast, has the means 70 MR. HALIBURTON’S ARGUMENT of supporting an immense population, and abounds in rich productions, with which she can carry on an extensive foreign trade. 66 It must be admitted, that a country so situated may become very powerful upon the ocean ; and it is highly probable that the navy of the United States will very soon be a valuable addition to the fleets of any of the Eu- ropean powers in future wars. But let it be re- collected, that France and Spain possess all the advantages which have been enumerated, and yet their united naval force has ever been un- equal to overpower that of Great Britain. And to what is it owing, that thirty millions of Frenchmen, aided by ten millions of Spaniards, are unable to equip and man fleets sufficiently powerful to destroy the navy of an island which does not possess half that population ? — Prin- cipally to this ; that the inhabitants of the in- land parts of France and Spain, which form so large a portion of their population, reside in a country which affords them the means of subsist- ence, without obliging them to seek it abroad ; MR. HALIBURTON'S ARGUMENT. 71 and they are therefore indisposed to encoun- ter the hardships of a seaman’s life ; whereas Great Britain is everywhere surrounded by the ocean ; the most inland parts of the island are not very distant from the sea ; and, as the productions of the soil would not support a very numerous population, a large proportion of its people are compelled to seek their subsistence by engaging in the fisheries, or in the coasting and foreign trade ; and it is from this hardy and enterprizing portion of her subjects, that Great Britain derives the means of establishing and maintaining her superiority upon the ocean. 66 Now, it is evident that the United States of America, even now, resemble the countries of France and Spain in this particular more than Great Britain ; and as their people recede from the ocean, and plant themselves in the valleys beyond the Alleghany mountains, the resem- blance will be still greater. By far the greater part of the inhabitants of those distant regions will live and die without ever having placed their feet upon the deck of a ship, and will 72 MR. HALIBU RTON’S ARGUMENT. consequently add nothing to the maritime po- pulation of the country : the rich productions of their fertile valleys will find their way to New Orleans,* and there provide abundant means of carrying on foreign trade : but the carriers of these productions to the foreign market, will either be foreigners, or natives of the Atlantic States. “ It is to these States, then, that America must look to provide the seamen who are to man her navy ; and among these, New York and New England will stand pre-eminent. The Southern States of Virginia, the Carolinas and Georgia, it is true, carry on an extensive fo- reign trade ; but, independent of their being destitute of any very commodious harbours for ships of war of the larger classes, their climate, and the nature of their population, equally unfit them to produce hardy and enterprizing mariners. They have few, if any vessels, en- * It may be observed here that the exclusive use of steam-boats upon the Mississippi will even lessen the num- ber of fresh- water sailors which must otherwise have been employed upon that immense river. MR. HALIBURTON’S ARGUMENT. 73 gaged in the fisheries ; and are therefore des- titute of that first great nursery for sea- men. “ The mercantile sea-ports to the southward of the Delaware, will, doubtless, produce a very respectable number of sailors at the commence- ment of a war ; but, as it is notorious that mer- chants usually navigate their vessels with the smallest possible number of hands, the employ- ment of these men in the navy, in a country where the labouring classes cannot provide sub- stitutes for them, will not only be productive of great inconvenience to the mercantile interest, but will render it difficult, if not impracticable, for the American navy to procure farther recruits from the Southern States, after it has made its first sweep from the ships of the merchants ; for surely those who are destined to wrest the sovereignty of the sea from Great Britain, will not be selected from the indolent slaves of the southern planter. “I submit it, then,” (continues Mr. H.) 66 to the consideration of those who will reflect seri- ously upon this subject, whether the maritime 74 MR. HALIBURTON’S ARGUMENT. population of the United States of America must not be principally derived from New York and New England. I do not deny, that seamen will frequently be met with from other portions of the Union ; but I mean to contend that these are the only States in that Union who possess a population which, by their habits and pursuits, are calculated to raise America as a naval power. Let us then view their present situation, and consider whether there is much probability of their increasing the means they now possess of adding to the naval strength of their country. “ The states of New York and New England are now old settled countries. The population of the former may become more numerous in the back parts of the country, but an increase in that quarter will add but little to her mari- time strength. But New England, and the south-eastern parts of New York, are already so fully peopled, that frequent emigrations take place from them to the inland States. Massachusets does not, and I believe we may MR. HALIBURTON’S ARGUMENT. 75 say cannot, raise within herself bread to sup- port her present population; and therefore can never expect to increase her numbers very rapidly ; while the western territory offers to her youth the tempting prospect of obtaining a livelihood in that rich country upon easier terms than they can procure it within her limits. “ Let it not then be deemed chimerical to say, that America has no immediate prospect of becoming a great naval power. 66 If the confederation of these States continue, they will no doubt become rich and powerful to a degree that may defy all aggression ; but it does not follow, that they will acquire a naval force that will prove formidable to the powers of Europe. Germany has been among the most powerful nations of Europe, and Austria and Hungary now produce valuable articles of export ; but these countries, from their geographical situations, cannot produce a maritime population. Other nations have therefore become the carriers of their pro- 76 MR. HALIBURTONS ARGUMENT. d actions, and they have never possessed any power upon the ocean. The inland States of America are precisely in the same situation ; and I close these observations by repeating, first, that the sources of the naval power of America must be principally derived from the States of New York and New England ; and, secondly, that there will be no great in- crease of the maritime population of those States until the western territory is fully peopled. When these fertile valleys are all occupied, and no longer hold out a temptation to the youth of the Atlantic States to remove thither, then they must follow the example of their ancestors in Great Britain ; and if the soil of their native country will not yield them a subsistence, they must seek it from the sea which washes its shores. But that day, I think it will be ad- mitted by all, is far distant ; ages must elapse before that vast country, through which the Ohio, the Missouri, and the Missisippi roll, will afford no farther room for the enterprising emigrant. ” NORTH-AMERICAN COLONIES. 77 Such is the argument of Mr. Haliburton ; to which I may be permitted to add, that so extensive is the line of sea-coast of our own North- American colonies, and so ad- mirable a nursery do they afford for the rearing of seamen, that I am inclined to believe they would soon prove very powerful competitors with the United States upon the sea, even without the aid of the mother country. Let it be recollected, that they in- clude the shores of New Brunswick, Nova Scotia, the St. Lawrence, and Newfoundland : that their numerous and commodious har- bours are in constant activity from the vessels employed in the fisheries, the timber trade, and in foreign commerce. That the race of men is hardy and vigorous ; and that there are few farmers in these coasts who are not capa- ble of conducting their craft to the neighbour- ing ports. Strong indeed must be the pro- vocation that would induce the Congress to engage in a war with Great Britain : the' growing preponderance of the inland States 78 HOME POLICY OF bids fair to oppose a powerful obstacle to such an occurrence. So little importance did Mr. Jefferson attach to the maritime interests of the United States, that, during his presidency, he went the length of recom- mending the abandonment of the carrying trade, and urged the policy of remaining at home, and selling the produce of the republic to the foreigners who came in search of it. Though his counsels were rejected, the sugges- tion is not forgotten, and, as the weight of the inland States increases in the scale, be- comes daily more popular. Notwithstanding the foregoing remarks, the American maritime States persist in the no- tion that, as their merchant service is nearly as extensive as the British, so they could upon a sudden emergency man a naval armament with equal facility. Than this theory, nothing can be more fallacious. Such is the nature of their trade, that their vessels, which are chiefly worked by foreign sfeamen, are scattered over the face of the THE UNITED STATES. 79 globe, and are not available for immediate and unexpected demands. The Government, destitute of the powers of impressment, and thrown upon its pecuniary resources, would be compelled to bid high in the market for hired assistance ; and thus intrust to merce- nary hands, the protection of her coasts, and the honour of her Flag. 80 SCENERY. CHAPTER VII. Scenery of the Hudson River — Island of New York — County Villas — American Mountains — West Point — Military Academy — Scene of Andre’s fate — Catskil Mountains — Newberry and Plough-keepsie — Traffic on the Hudson — Arrival at Albany — Great Canal from Albany to Lake Erie — Town of Troy — Line of hills in Massachusets — Cheshire — Sleeping arrangements of the Yankee travellers — Stage-coach, and coachman — Method of driving — The Green Mountains — Deer- field — Petersham — Approach to Boston — Bunker’s- Hill. Tuesday, June 6th, I embarked at ten o’clock in the morning, having taken leave of my friend Yorke, who was going to Niagara. For my amusement on the voyage, I was fortu- nate enough to procure the novel of Woodstock, which had been printed and sold at New York in less than forty-eight hours after the arrival of the English edition ; and I bought ' MW 3T0JRK.AJNB THIS. I1RROWS TAIli GOING UIP THE. HUDSON ISLAND OF NEW YORK. 81 it in two volumes for three shillings and three pence. The scenery of the Hudson has been de- servedly celebrated. On leaving the city, a perpendicular ridge, about two hundred feet in height, called the Palisades, forms the left bank of the river for a considerable distance ; on the right, is the island of New York with its low banks covered with verdure and inter- spersed at intervals by numerous country houses ; but how different in size and taste from similar residences on our own picturesque Thames ! We entered the Highlands about four. It was a delightful afternoon and the air was perfectly calm. As we proceeded, the appearance of the tranquil river losing itself among the mountains was beautiful. Nothing can be imagined finer than some of the windings of the stream, where the banks, covered with the richest verdure, rise, almost perpendicularly, 1500 feet out of the water. The American mountains differ widely in cha- racter from the European. They have no bare G MILITARY ACADEMY. 82 and craggy tops, presenting images of sterility and desolation. Gracefully rounded, the summit vies in fertility with the base, and is equally clothed with foliage exhibiting every shade of green. In the Highlands of the Hudson, how- ever, a rude rock will occasionally burst its way through the entangled branches of the creepers and the vines, and bare its bosom to the noble river. We stopped a short time at West Point, where we saw the Military Academy of the United States, an establishment which has succeeded remarkably well, and produced a number of valuable officers. The architect has displayed but little taste in the elevation of the building, nor has he taken advantage of the magnificent scenery with which it is sur- rounded, in the selection of the site. It is impossible for the traveller to pass these parts unmoved by melancholy reflections on Andres fate and Washington’s cruelty. History will reluctantly record the murder of a ARRIVAL AT ALBANY. 83 brave man, and the only stain upon the cha- racter of a hero. On emerging from the Highlands, the pros- pect became tame and uninteresting. Before dark, we caught a glimpse of the Catskil Moun- tains in the distance, and passed Newberry and Plough-Keepsie, which appeared to be flourish- ing towns. The traffic on this river is very considerable, and the view is constantly enlivened by the numerous steam-boats, rafts, and sloops, which ply between New York and Albany. Nothing could be more interesting or delightful than the whole of this voyage. The presence of my friend Yorke was alone wanting to my complete enjoyment of it. June 7th, at three in the morning, the steam-boat (which was of immense size, and on the high pressure sj^stem) arrived at Al- bany, having come one hundred and sixty miles in seventeen hours, including stoppages. 1 found that, unluckily, the mail-coach had G 2 84 ALBANY, THE SEAT OF GOVERNMENT— TROY. left the place just before our arrival, so I book- ed myself in an accommodation-stage, which was to reach Boston (a distance of one hun- dred and sixty miles) in three days, and en- tered the wretched vehicle, with a heavy heart, at eight o'clock. Albany, which is the seat of Government of the powerful State of New York, appeared to be a small town, and in every respect inferior to New York. On our road to Troy, which was the first stage, we passed the great canal, which reaches from Albany to Lake Erie, a magnificent undertaking, and incalculably be- neficial to the commerce of the State. Troy is neat and clean, like all the New England towns ; the houses are in general built of wood, the walls whitewashed, and the fronts ornamented with green window-shutters. The machine in which I travelled, was slow, and crowded. The proprietor had undertaken to let us rest at night on the road, but we found that his notions of rest were very imperfect, ARRIVE AT CHESHIRE. 85 and that his night was that of the polar regions. The country through which we passed, was extremely hilly. The line of hills in Massa- chusets, runs North and South, so that in travelling eastward it is necessary to cross them all. We saw several small lakes. The land is but little cultivated, and covered with large woods of beech, birch, and maple. Hav- ing partaken of a wretched dinner at Sand Lake, we arrived about one in the morning at Cheshire, where we were to sleep. By dint of most active exertion, I secured a bed to myself, the narrow dimensions of which precluded the possibility of participation, and plunged into it with all possible haste, as there was not a moment to be lost. Secure in 66 single blessedness," I was incredibly amused at the compliments of nocturnal arrangement which passed around me among my Yankee companions. They were nine in number, and occupied by triplets, the three other beds 86 COACH COMPANY. which the room contained. Whether it was with a view of preserving their linen unrump- led, or of enjoying greater space, I cannot tell ; but certain it is that they divested them- selves of clothing to a degree not generally practised in Europe. A spirit of accommoda- tion appeared to prevail, and it seemed to be a matter of indifference whether to occupy the lateral portions of the bed, or the warmer cen- tral position, except in one instance where a gentleman protested against being placed next to the wall, as he was in the habit of chewing tobacco in his sleep ! At four o'clock in the morning we again set off, and, as much rain had fallen in the night, the roads were in a dreadful state. The coach company now consisted of nine passengers inside, one on the top, (which from its convex form is a very precarious situation,) and three on the box, besides the coachman, who sat on the knees of the unfortunate middle man, — an uneasy burthen, considering the intense heat of the weather. AMERICAN COACHMAN. 87 It matters little to the American driver where he sits ; he is indeed in all respects a far different personage from his great-coated pro- totype in England. He is in general extreme- ly dexterous in the art of driving, though his costume is of a most grotesque description. Figure to yourself a slipshod sloven, dressed in a striped calico jacket, and an old straw hat, alternately arranging the fragile harness of his horses, and springing again upon his box with surprising agility; careless of the bones of his passengers, and confident in his skill and resources, he scruples not frequently to gallop his coach over corderoy roads, (so called from being formed of the trunks of trees laid transversely,) or dash it round corners, and through holes that would appal the heart of the stoutest English coachman, however elated with gin, or irritated by opposition. I was once whirled along one of these roads, when the leathers (barbarous substitutes for springs,) which supported the carriage gave way with a sudden shock. The undaunted 88 GREEN MOUNTAINS, driver instantly sprung from his box, tore a stake from a rail fence by the road side, laid it across under the body of the coach, and was off again before I had properly recovered the use of my senses, which were completely be- wildered by the jolting I had undergone. I can compare it to nothing but the Tub of Regulus without the nails. When the lash and butt-end of the whip fail him, he does not scruple to use his foot as the situation of his seat allows the application of it to his wheelers. The manners of my companions in the coach were rude and coarse. There was, how- ever, a kindness and cordiality about them, which pierced through their rough exterior, and reconciled me insensibly to their com- pany. They always designated me as 46 the Englishman." About eight o'clock we crossed the Green Mountains. These are ridges of lofty and round-topped hills, generally similar in form, and covered by impenetrable forests. We CHESTER, I1N MASSAC3US1TTB CONNECTICUT RIVER-PETERSHAM. 89 passed several pretty villages, but the scenery was for the most part uninteresting. As we approached the Connecticut River, the road became more level, though still far worse than any bye- lane that is to be met with in England. We passed through Deerfield, a beautiful village, built in a highly cultivated plain. It is celebrated in the revolutionary war, for having fallen a prey to an incursion of the Canadian Indians, vestiges of whose bar- barity remain to this day. We crossed the river by a bridge near the town of Greenfield. The stream, though consi- derable, is not navigable, and its banks are high and desolate. Our journey had been not only rough but in- tolerably slow, from the hilly nature of the country. We dined at New Salem at six, and arrived at Petersham, where we were to sleep, at twelve o'clock at night, having been twenty hours coming sixty miles. Though tired and disgusted with my journey, the prospect of a short respite from this stale 90 APPROACH TO BOSTON. of purgatory, was embittered during the last few miles, by alarm at the idea of passing the night with one if not two of my fellow-tra- vellers, and I internally resolved rather to sleep upon the floor. After a desperate struggle, I succeeded to my great joy in securing a bed for myself, not, however, without undergoing a severe ob- jurgation from the landlady, who could not understand such unaccommodating selfish- ness. Short were our slumbers. By the rigid order of the proprietor, we were turned out the next morning at three, and pursued our journey. The country through which we passed, was in a great measure uncleared, but as it was not so hilly, we proceeded at a quicker rate. The general appearance of things improved v£ry considerably as we approached Boston ; corn-mills, paper manufactories, gentlemen's villas or farms, agreeably enlivened the scene, which we were enabled to contemplate with BUNKER’S HILL. 91 greater ease, as for the last ten miles the road is perfectly level. A small rise, crowned with an insignificant monument, was pointed out to me on the left, as Bunker's Hill, the scene of the celebrated battle. 92 STATE HOUSE. CHAPTER VIII. Boston — The State-house — Society at Boston, and Beauty of the Women — Dock-yard — Vessels on the Stocks — Houses of the Officers — State of the American Navy — Embark on board a Packet — Nautical ignorance of the Captain — Sufferings of the Passengers. Boston is situated on a peninsula, and is approached by wooden causeways, which are from two to three miles in length. The State- house, erected on a considerable eminence, is the principal feature of the town. A fine park slopes down from it to the waters of the Bay, and is skirted on either side by the houses of the principal inhabitants. The streets are in general narrow, crowded, and dirty, nor have they those avenues planted by the side of the foot pavement, which so much embellish the other cities of the Union. FEMALE BEAUTY. 93 After having got rid of the dust of my journey, and eaten a cold dinner, for, alas ! I was too late for the table d'hote , I walked round the town, and up to the State-house, which, instead of being marble as I at first supposed, I found to be built of painted bricks. Boston is celebrated for its hospitality, the superior polish of its society, and for the beauty of its women. I can only bear witness as to the latter part of this praise, which appeared to be well deserved as far as I could judge. They certainly have more colour than the women of the southern cities, who, how- ever, console themselves by voting paleness to be a mark of high-breeding. The shortness of my time prevented my having the pleasure of experiencing their social or hospitable qua- lities, and obliged me to confine my attention to more important matters. Having secured a passage in the Eastport packet which was to sail in the evening, I contrived, through the extreme civility of a 94 BOSTON DOCK-YARD. gentleman and the kindness of the Commis- sioner, to obtain a view of the Dock-yard. It is finely situated at Charlestown, about two miles from the city, and considerably larger than any of the others that I had visited, co- vering nearly 100 acres in extent. There were two vessels of 102 guns on the stocks, the Vermont and Virginia; they have been lately finished, but will not be launched until wanted for service. Their dimensions are exactly similar to those of the Ohio. They are var- nished all over, for the purpose of preserving them from decay. Workmen were laying the keels of a sixty - gun frigate and a corvette. Two ships, two deckers, were in ordinary, and the Java, of sixty guns, was undergoing repairs. The marine establishment, gunwharf, &c, were as usual in the yard. The sheds, or, as they term them, ship-houses, are of great height, in consequence of the ships being built upon slips. One in particular was pointed out to me, as containing an improvement which was BOSTON DOCK- YARD. 95 much esteemed : — it consisted in fitting up the space beneath the part of the roof project- ing beyond the uprights which support it, with galleries for the accommodation of the workmen. The houses of the officers were in an incom- plete state, and the Yard in general had a very deserted appearance, as no ships are fitted out for sea at Boston, in consequence of the impos- sibility of procuring men. Indeed, New York is the only port where ships can be manned for service. Besides the dock-yards I have described, there is one at Norfolk, and another at Ports- mouth ; but with the exception of one line-of- battle ship and two frigates at these ports, I believe I have inspected the whole of the un- employed American vessels of war.* The fund appropriated to the gradual aug- mentation of their navy, from its scantiness, must be of very slow operation. In commis- * For a statement of the whole navy, for the beginning of 1826, founded on the last official returns and my own observations, and on the information which I obtained, I beg to refer the reader to the note at the end of this work. 96 BOSTON BA Y". sion, they have one line-of-battle ship, four frigates, six sloops, and several schooners. I was told, that on the new system which they have adopted, the Americans propose to divide their ships into five classes, namely, three-deck- ers, — two-deckers of one hundred and two guns, — frigates of sixty guns, — corvettes of twenty-two guns, — and schooners. The princi- pal builder is one of the Commissioners of the navy. On the model of every ship, a committee is held — the draft determined on, and transmit- ted to the builders of the dock-yards ; and as periodical inspections take place, no deviation from the original model can occur. This system of classification and admirable adherence to approved models, have been at- tended by the most beneficial results, which are visible in the beauty and excellent qualities of the ships of the United States. At four, I embarked on board the American packet, Sarah, for Eastport. It was a lovely surfimer’s evening, and the view on all sides SUFFERINGS FROM SEA-SICKNESS. 97 was beautiful. The bay is full of islands, and Boston is seen from it to great advantage, with the lofty dome of its State-house rising in proud pre-eminence above the other buildings of the city. I soon found that the captain was but little acquainted with the Bay of Fundy, and was unprovided with either chart or quadrant — a circumstance which did not surprise me, as American sailors are proverbially the worst navigators in the world. However, as the wind was fair, and as he seemed to steer with con- fidence, I went to bed, trusting to Providence for a good deliverance. All the passengers were sea-sick, and it was my ill-fortune to occupy a birth immediately beneath a gentleman who was tortured by this distressing malady, in all its most afflictive va- rieties, to a degree which I did not believe the human frame was capable of sustaining. H 98 EASTPORT. CHAPTER IX. Eastport — Schudick river — Forests — Public reading-room — John Randolph, the Representative of Virginia — Eng- lish steam-boat — Town of St. John — Ship-building — Embark on board a coasting schooner — Her passengers and crew— Bay of Mines — Cape Split — Gale of wind ; terror of the Captain — Village of Horton — Town of Windsor, and English dinner — Departure for Halifax — Mode of travelling — Scenery of the neighbourhood — Ar- rival at Halifax. — Town and Harbour — Important po- sition of Bermuda — Government of Nova Scotia — Dis- tant view of Quebec — The Montmorency river. On Monday, the 12th of June, we arrived at the place of our destination, after a very good passage of forty-eight hours. Eastport, which is a small but thriving little town, con- taining about 2000 inhabitants, is very finely situated on the bay at the mouth of the Schu- dick river, which forms the North-eastern PUBLIC READING-ROOM. 99 boundary of the United States. From a fort above the town, I enjoyed a most beautiful view of the river, or rather branch of the sea ; for so vast is the scale of the American rivers, that the term hardly applies to them. As far as the eye could reach, the shores were covered with interminable forests, which conveyed to the mind a notion of wild freedom, and inac- cessible solitude, not without its charm. No vessels were to be seen, but, here and there, the light canoes of native Indians, which shot across the gulph, and added to the savage wildness of the scene. As the steamer to St. John's, New Bruns- wick, was not to sail till Wednesday, I amused myself in the public reading-room with look- ing over about thirty newspapers, which are regularly taken in from all parts of the United States. Many of these journals quoted an article from the English Courier, which had given great offence, inasmuch as it had desig- nated all the inhabitants of the Union as Phi- ladelphians. I could onl\/ look upon it as one 100 JOHN RANDOLPH. of the many instances of the general want of information evinced by English writers with regard to American affairs. The rest of the papers, as is generally the case, related to the tedious and squabbling debates of Congress. The name of one of the representatives was conspicuous in these controversies. The violence of this individual, and the coarse- ness of his language, have introduced a system derogatory to the dignity, and inju- rious to the harmony of the Senate. I was assured by several Americans that he would, with many others of the same class, in all pro- bability, lose his seat at the next election ; but this is by no means certain ; for the notoriety which attends these brawling ora- tors, though disgusting to the community at large, is apt to find favour with their consti- tuents. At eight o'clock, on the 14th, I embarked on board the English steam-boat for St. John's, New Brunswick; and I must confess, that find- ing myself once more under English colours TOWN OF ST. JOHN. 101 was not a little agreeable to me, notwithstand- ing the kind treatment I had experienced from all in the United States. After coasting along the shores of New Brunswick, and passing the harbours of Beaver and Litang, we arrived at St. John^s in the afternoon. This part of the coast is little cul- tivated, and except here and there a fishing- hut, we saw but few signs of habitation. I found that the regular packet across the Bay of Fundy to Windsor, in Nova Scotia, had sailed the day before ; but, after an active search, I obtained a passage in a coasting schooner, which was bound to Horton, a vil- lage about fifteen miles from that town. Previous to my departure, I took a rapid survey of the town of St. John, which contains 8500 inhabitants ; it is built partly of wood, and partly of brick, and is situated upon a peninsula, one side of which is skirted by the river St. John, and the other by a large bay. The timber trade and market are supplied by the river, which is navigable as far as Frede- 102 A COASTING SCHOONER. rickton, the seat of the Provincial Government, about one hundred miles distant. Ship-build- ing is carried on to a great extent at St. John, and the crowd of masts forms a principal fea- ture in the first view of the town from the sea. At the appointed time, I went on board the coaster. Her crew consisted of one old man, his brother, who was a cripple, and an Indian. Although she was thirty-five tons burthen, her only ballast consisted of twenty casks of Hour, and a bag of old nails. No description can do justice to the cabin ; it was about eight feet square, had no chimney, and was filled with the smoke of a large wood-fire, which was lit upon the hearth. On the ground were extended, in a state of complete intoxication, two Irish labourers, whom I afterwards disco- vered to have been put on board by mistake. Scrambling over them, I entered the hole in which I was to pass the night, and was settling myself as well as I could in this dismal recess, when I was startled by the voice of an Ameri- can passenger. He had just come on board, BAY OF MINES. 103 and, to my unspeakable dismay, expressed to me his intention of sharing the miserable rug on which I lay. But I was now under the influence of British customs, and, regardless of his repeated solicitation, turned a deaf ear to the proposal. In the morning, I found that we had made Chignecto Highlands, and towards evening we reached the narrow entrance of the Bay of Mines. I believe that the world contains no channel through which the tide (the rise and fall of which is from sixty to seventy feet) rushes with greater impetuosity. The moun- tains which form the bank of the channel, on the Nova Scotia side, are very precipitous, and Cape Split, a mighty mass of rock, situated at the mouth of the strait, appears, by some tremendous convulsion of nature, to have been rent from the Continent. The sunset tints upon its whitened sides were beautifully relieved by a dark and portentous cloud, which we observed rising behind it. This gloomy back-ground proved, but too soon, to be the 104 GALE OF WIND.— HORTON RIVER. harbinger of a gale of wind, which, meeting the rush of the tide, caused one of the most furious conflicts of the elements I ever beheld. Entering the stormy strait, we were hur- ried through it in the very teeth of the wind, which nearly upset us more than once. Though fully impressed with the danger of being caught in the eddies which threatened us on every side, I was compelled, by the vio- lence of the gale, to step forward myself and take in the greater part of the sail. The old man, nearly paralysed with ter- ror, chiefly employed himself in beating the Indian for his helplessness. This wretched creature was dreadfully sick, and had literally never seen the sea before. I at length per- suaded his merciless tormentor to desist, by representing to him that sea-sickness was bad enough without beating ; and that it was ab- surd to expect professional skill from a poor wretch who had never seen a ship in his life. Having at length got safely through this ex- traordinary passage, we reached the entrance TOWN OF WINDSOR. 105 of the Horton river, and anchored for the night, as the tide no longer served. Having supped upon potatoes fried in the grease of bacon, the only refreshment the vessel af- forded, I again crept into my hole ; and on awaking in the morning, nearly suffocated with smoke, found myself, to my great satisfaction, arrived at Horton, which is at some distance from the mouth of the river. The neighbourhood of this large straggling village is considered to be the garden of Nova Scotia. The adjacent lands are principally re- claimed from the sea. Strong dykes protect the banks of the numerous small rivers which empty themselves into this part of the Bay of Mines. The fertility of the soil, the luxuriance of the vegetation, and the numerous cottages with which the country is dotted, form a land- scape of uncommon richness and beauty. 1 had great difficulty in procuring a conveyance to Windsor ; indeed, a man who travels in America must “ put his patience in his pocket.’" Five tedious hours were consumed in coming 106 ENGLISH DINNER. fourteen miles : the road was tolerably good, but hilly, and ran chiefly through forest-land, until it opened into the smiling valley, inter- sected by a small river, on which the town of Windsor is situated. Never in my whole life did I more fully appreciate the benefits of our own good English customs, or feel in better humour with my country in general, than when I sat down in a clean parlour by myself, to the snug dinner prepared for me by the widow Wilcocks, land- lady of a comfortable inn in the good town of Windsor. How different from an American table d'hote ! where you are deafened by the clamour, and disgusted by the selfish gluttony of your companions ; where you must either bolt your victuals, or starve, from the ravenous rapidity with which every thing is despatched ; and where the inattention of the servants is only to be equalled by their insolence and familiarity. Soothed by civility to which I had been long a stranger, and refreshed by the widow’s MODE OF TRAVELLING. 107 comfortable cheer, I set out for Halifax, and was delighted to learn that it was only forty-five miles distant. I travelled in a carriage called a waggon, which I had hired. This descrip- tion of vehicle is used by all classes as a light conveyance. The body, containing four per- sons and their luggage, is on four wheels, without springs, and drawn by two horses. The evening was very fine, and I enjoyed some magnificent views of the Bay of Mines, from various turns of the road, as it crosses the mountains to the east of Windsor. I must observe that this is the only Macadamized road in America. We passed several pits from which the gypsum, or plaster of Paris, is ex- tracted.* Some attempts at cultivation were visible here and there ; but, in those lands which were under progress of clearing, burnt timber and rocks were alone to be distinguish- ed. So striking was the sterility of the scene, * This article is exported in great quantities for ma- nure. 108 HALIFAX- that a gentleman who accompanied me, stop- ped the carriage, and recommended one poor man, an emigrant, who was at work, to leave this unproductive country, and remove to Canada, where the soil would repay his labour. We passed two country seats, one of which overlooked the most dreary lake I ever saw. Here the fir-tree, the pine, and the spruce, alone seemed to flourish. Perhaps I regarded Nova Scotia at this moment with a prejudiced eye, having so lately traversed more luxurious countries. It is to her forests, her fisheries, and her gypsum, that her inhabitants must look for subsistence ; the corn-field and the orchard are not for them. I arrived at Halifax the same night, after an absence of a month, in the course of which I had travelled a distance of nearly 2000 miles. Halifax, the capital of Nova Scotia, is too well known to require a minute description ; I shall therefore only observe that it is a thriving and populous town : like most sea-ports, it became rich during the war, and GOVERNMENT OF NOVA SCOTIA- 109 suffered severely at its cessation. It was the chief rendezvous of our shipping on that station, during our last conflict with America, and the mart where most of the prizes were sold. Many of the inhabitants had the prudence to realize their property during the good times, and consequently form a very respect- able society, which is no small resource to the officers of the ships and regiments stationed here. The Government of Nova Scotia, like that of all our Colonies, is composed of a Governor, his Council, in which the Government interest preponderates, and a house of Representatives. The taxes are very light, as the principal officers are paid by the English Treasury. To the people of Nova Scotia, who are re- markable for their loyalty, this form of govern- ment appears to be highly agreeable. Like the two Canadas, they cordially abhor their Ameri- can neighbours — an aversion which originated in the injuries they sustained at their hands during the last war. 110 THE DOCK- YARD. The harbour of Halifax is magnificent, and sufficiently large to contain any quantity of shipping. The Dock-yard, situated a little above the town, is at present in a state of comparative inactivity, but in the most perfect order and repair. The establishment is completely furnished with every description of store, and would be ready at the shortest notice to meet any sudden emergency. The possession of this fine harbour and Dock- yard, on the immediate confines of the Unit- ed States, is of immense importance, and cal- culated to allay the apprehensions of alarmists at the idea of an American war. Let them also consider, that we possess an arsenal even greater in value and more threatening in posi- tion. I allude to Bermuda, which may be said to be a thorn in the very heart of maritime America. Strongly fortified, and completely stored, it is within three days’ sail of the shores which are the seat of her vital strength. FALLS OF MONTMORENCY. Ill CHAPTER X. Arrival of H. M. S. Jupiter at Quebec — Description of the town — Views from the Citadel, and from Point Levi — Commerce of Quebec — Its immunities, and jea- lousy of the mother country — Falls of Montmorency — Saw-mills — Indian village of Lorette — Squaws — An- ecdote of the Chief of the tribe. Soon afterwards, in the course of my ser- vice, I ascended the St. Lawrence in His Ma- jesty’s ship Jupiter, as far as Quebec. No- thing could be more grand or striking than the first view of this city and its environs, as the ship emerged from the narrow channel of the river, formed by the island of Orleans. The St. Lawrence at this point takes a sudden turn and spreads itself to the dimensions of a considerable lake. On the left, we observed the town, the bright tin steeples and house- 112 ARRIVAL AT QUEBEC. tops of which, crowning the summit of Cape Diamond, glittered in the sun. A multitude of shipping lay close beneath, and their dimi- nutive appearance enabled us to judge of the great height of the promontory. On the right, at the distance of about eight miles, the beau- tiful falls of the Montmorency discover them- selves. The plain through which this river flows, studded with all the varieties of cultivation, in- terspersed with villages, and backed by lofty mountains, terminates abruptly in a perpendi- cular bank of very great height ; over the verge of which, in soft and sleepy majesty, the stream descends in one milk-white foamy sheet, and hides itself in the bosom of the St. Lawrence. The approach of so large a man-of-war as the vessel in which I served, had excited great curio- sity. Crowds of people covered the lines and batteries of Quebec in every direction to wit- ness our arrival. The masterly manner in which the ship came to an anchor, under the welcome of a salute DESCRIPTION OF QUEBEC. 113 from Cape Diamond, far above our heads, must have had a magnificent effect. Quebec is divided into two distinct parts. The Lower Town occupies a narrow strip of land between the precipitous heights of Cape Dia- mond and the river. It is connected with the Upper Town by means of a steep street, built in a ravine, which is commanded by the guns of a strongly fortified gateway. The Lower Town is principally inhabited by merchants ; and so much straightened are they for room, that many of their houses are built upon wharfs, and other artificial ground. The Government-house is a large but in- elegant building, and overhangs the precipice to such a degree, that the outer wall is built upon supporters. The streets of Quebec are very narrow, and there is a general appearance of antiquity not often to be met with in an American town. The suburbs are situated on the shores of the St. Charles, without the for- tifications. The building which is now the barracks was formerly an old French con- i 114 DESCRIPTION OF QUEBEC. vent. There is a fine Roman Catholic cathe- dral here. From the summit of the citadel on Cape Diamond, the fortifications and position of the town are unfolded in magnificent prospect. On the left, and forming the north bank of the river, are stretched the celebrated plains of Abraham. On the right is a tract of low country, through which the rivers Montmo- rency and St. Charles discharge themselves into the St. Lawrence. In the distance rise the high mountains that form the boundary of an uncultivated and unknown waste extend- ing to the barren coast of Labrador. The view in the direction of Point Levi, on the opposite side of the river, is hardly less extensive ; nor can any thing be imagined more grand than the immense St. Lawrence, teeming with commerce, and flowing rapidly round the cape, which rises 340 feet above it in perpendicular elevation. The trade of Quebec, and the general pros- perity of Lower Canada, are daily increas- COMMERCE OF QUEBEC. 115 ing, notwithstanding the spirit of contradic- tion with which the House of Representatives oppose every measure of the mother country calculated to promote them. By the original treaty of Quebec, and by subsequent acts passed by the British Parliament, the Lower Canadians have secured to themselves great and peculiar rights, privileges, and immuni- ties. Though perfectly loyal, a jealousy, a suspicion, and a distrust of the mother coun- try, pervade all their discussions, and form a remarkable contrast with the more reasonable spirit which animates the contented inhabi- tants of Nova Scotia and New Brunswick. However wise the regulations, or judicious the projects of the English Government for the improvement of Canada, they are invariably resisted by the Colonial Legislature ; and such is their apprehension of any encroachment upon their religion, laws, or language, that thev are content to sacrifice obvious advanta- ges to the maintenance of ancient customs and unreasonable prejudices. i 2 116 FALLS OF MONTMORENCY. The road to the falls of Montmorency lies along the north shore, and exhibits a con- tinued succession of cottages, orchards, and gardens. It is the fashion in Canada to white- wash the houses, which are remarkably clean outside. I cannot say so much for the interior. At distances of a quarter of a mile I observed long poles erected in front of particular cot- tages, and learned that they were considered as marks of distinction conferred on the offi- cers of the militia, and denoted the rendezvous of their corps. The river Montmorency is crossed by a bridge a short distance above the Falls, and the placid beauty of the stream winding be- tween its steep and woody banks, forms a pleas- ing preparation for the grandeur of the scene about to be disclosed. The first view I had of the Fall was from the right bank, which is crowned to the very brink with a beautiful wood. Through the verdant foliage overhang- ing the stream, I beheld the silvery waters pre- cipitate themselves with a mighty crash into FALLS OF MONTMORENCY NEAR QUEBEC *■ SAW-MILLS. ]17 the depths below. Though the contemplation of so large a river falling perpendicularly a height of two-hundred-and-twenty feet, is un- doubtedly both awful and sublime, still the ge- neral impression in viewing this beautiful ca- taract is rather pleasing than terrific. A small branch of the stream has been diverted into a separate cascade, and in its descent turns the wheels of some great saw-mills at the foot of the precipice, in which mills are prepared vast quantities of timber for the English market. So daring is the spirit of enterprise in Ame- rica, that a mill has been erected above, with- in a stone’s throw of the very brink of the great fall. Having sated my eyes with this enchanting scene, I walked to what are call- ed the 66 natural steps of the Montmorency.’" About a quarter of a mile above the fall the channel of the river is formed by rocky strata, which, wearing away in proportion to the soft- ness of their material, have assumed the ap- pearance of regular steps, over which the wa- ter runs with immense rapidity. 118 THE VILLAGE OF LORETTE. The Indian village of Lorette, about nine miles from Quebec, is considered one of the “ lions” of this part of the world. We made a party to visit it. The road follows the St. Charles, and the country around is embellished by numbers of little villages, the churches of which are decorated with tin spires, remark- able for their brightness and tapering ap- pearance. Lorette is a scattered and irregular hamlet, chiefly singular for a beautiful cascade foimed in the vicinity by the St. Charles. I was informed that the natives are of an ex- tremely quiet inoffensive character. The chief, and nearly all the men, were out hunting, but the boys amused us by shooting uncommonly well with bows and arrows. Some of the women, or squaws as the Indians call them, were pretty. The chief of this branch of the once great tribe of Hurons visited England some time ago. I afterwards saw him in Quebec, and had a good deal of conversation with him. When asked what had struck him most of all that he had seen in England, he replied without hesita- CHIEF OF THE HURONS TRIBE. 119 tion, that it was the monument erected in St. Paul's to the memory of General Brock. It seemed to have impressed him with a high idea of the considerate beneficence of his great fa- ther, the King of England, that he not only had remembered the exploits and death of his white child, who had fallen beyond tke big salt lake, but that he had even deigned to record on the marble sepulchre the sorrows of the poor In- dian, weeping over his chief, untimely slain. 120 PLAINS OF ABRAHAM. CHAPTER XI. The Plains of Abraham — Spot on which General Wolfe expired — Burke’s panegyric on the hero — Profligate life of The Lumberers — Embark in the Lady Sherbrooke steam-vessel for Montreal — Salute from the Citadel — Wolfe’s Cove — Contested election at Trois Rivieres— Town of Sorel — Summer residence of the Governor- General — Shores of the St. Lawrence — Montreal — Theatre — Miss Kelly — Indifferent accom- modations for shipping — Establishments for ship- building. The Plains of Abraham, on which the gate of St. Louis opens, are now thickly inhabited : a part of this tract forms the race-ground, which finely overlooks the St. Law rence. Near this is the spot on which Wolfe expired ; and, till with- in a few years, the stone was to be seen which supported him in his last moments, but the owner of the field, finding that a foot-path was SPOT ON WHICH WOLFE FELL. 121 formed by the feet of travellers who visited the spot where the hero fell, had the barbarous sel- fishness to sink the stony pillow twenty feet below the surface of the ground, and the plough has now gone over it. But, however we may regret that so interesting a monument, made sacred by the tears of many a brave and tender heart, should be destroyed, we have the satisfaction of knowing that the fame and the remembrance of the young, the gallant, and the generous Wolfe, depend not upon the paltry spite, or sordid Vandalism of one obscure in- dividual. The circumstances of his death are thus recorded by Mr. Burke in words which will ever be remembered. “ The death of Wolfe was indeed grievous to his country, but to himself the most happy that can be imagined, and the most to be en- vied by all those who have a true relish for military glory. Unindebted to family or con- nections, unsupported by intrigue or faction, he had accomplished the whole business of life when others were only beginning to appear; 122 BURKE’S PANEGYRIC ON THE HERO. and at the age of thirty-five, without feeling the weakness of age, or the vicissitude of for- tune, having satisfied his honest ambition, hav- ing completed his character, having fulfilled the expectations of his country, he fell at the head of his conquering troops, and expired in the arms of victory.” It is curious that in Quebec, the only me- morial of Wolfe should be a little quaint wooden figure, set up in a niche at the corner of an old French house; but we should also recollect that Quebec was a conquered city, and but little interested in preserving the memory of its victor. The precipitous path by which our troops ascended the heights, is now a road to the dif- ferent coves that contain the timber brought down by the rafts. The river, in this part, is covered with fleets of timber-ships, which are in a state of constant activity. On a strip of land, under the nearly perpen- dicular bank, are the wretched dwellings of the Lumberers, as the raftsmen, voyageurs , and PROFLIGATE LIFE OF THE LUMBERERS. 123 others whose business it is to supply the tim- ber trade, are called. Their mode of life is pe- culiar : — They proceed in their canoes to the interior, and uncleared country, where they fell the timber, depending for subsistence upon the produce of the forests and rivers. When they have collected a sufficient quantity of wood, they form rafts, and float down by its various tributory streams into the St. Lawrence, which conveys them to Montreal and Quebec, where they sell the product of their labour. From the moment that they receive their money, a scene of uproar and debauchery com- mences, which concludes only when the whole of it is gone. This state of things is the more dreadful, as, from the nature of their employ- ment, they are semi-barbarians, and their sa- vage jubilees often lead to the perpetration of the most atrocious crimes. When their mo- ney is spent, they retire to the woods, re-com- mence their labours, and return to a repetition of the same dangerous and degrading ex- cesses. 124 EMBARK FOR MONTREAL. A party, in which I was included, had been formed by my kind friend the Admiral for the purpose of visiting the Falls of Niagara, and ac- cordingly, at ten in the morning of Wednesday, the 13th of September, 1826, we embarked in the Lady Sherbrooke, a steam-boat of 800 tuns burden, for Montreal. As we had the Earl of Dalhousie, the Governor-general of the Canadas on board, the citadel again poured forth its thun- der from above ; and, as we rapidly shot round its base, the magnificent vibrations of the echoes seemed to give a fresh impetus to the vessel which vigorously ploughed up the water in its course. We soon passed Wolfe's Cove ; above this spot, the banks of the river are woody and steep, though not nearly so precipitous as the land, which we were leaving. Little white houses are scattered along the shores, which were embellished at almost every interval of six miles by the appearance of a church. We had an excellent table-d’hote dinner, as well as accommodations on board. We passed Trois Rivieres in the night, and found, by the disturb- TOWN OF SOREL. 125 ance on shore, that it had been the scene of a contested election. We were not left long in doubt as to the result of the struggle, for a man hailed us from ‘the shore, who not only proclaimed the name of the successful candi- date, but added the interesting information that he himself had been clerk of the poll. We crossed Lake St. Peter in the night. On the 14th, after breakfast, whilst the steam-boat was taking in fuel, we landed at the small town of Sorel, or Prince William Henry, thirty-five miles from Quebec. We took this opportunity of seeing the summer residence of the Governor-general, which is situated^ about three-quarters of a mile from the town, on the river Richelieu. The land at this place is sandy and low, but the river takes a beautiful bend near the house, which renders the situation picturesque. The mansion itself is a neat French-built cottage, and is the usual residence of the Go- vernor-general during the great heats of the summer. Through the Richelieu, the super- 126 ARRIVAL AT MONTREAL. fiuous waters of Lake Champlaine empty them- selves into the St. Lawrence. Having received a salute from the wooden fort, which commands the entrance of the river, we proceeded on our course to Montreal, a distance of forty-five miles. The shores of the St, Lawrence in this quarter, are very low, but in a fine state of cultivation. Towards evening we descried the mountain which gives its name to the town, and about nine o’clock we anchored within a mile of Montreal. We were unable to reach the city, in consequence of the increasing rapidity of the current, which had this day materially retarded the progress of the vessel, and therefore landed. Upon entering the town, we were agreeably surprised to find a magnificent hotel, the appearance of which would bear a compa- rison with any that I have seen in England. So many American travellers resort to this place during the summer, in the course of their northern tours to avoid the heats of the south, that it has answered very well to lay out a THEATRE.— MISS KELLY. 127 large sum upon the embellishments and ac- commodations of this establishment. Adjoin- ing the hotel is a very neat little theatre, capa- ble of holding about 700 people, where I again had an opportunity of witnessing the perform- ance of Miss Kelly, whom I had before seen at Philadelphia. I believe no speculation turns out more profitably to English actors in gene- ral, than to cross the Atlantic, and after mak- ing the tour of the principal towns of the United States and Canada, to return to Eng- land from Quebec. The town of Montreal is situated between the St. Lawrence and the mountain which stands behind it, at the distance of about two miles, which constitutes an object the more remarkable, from being the only high ground within many leagues. In the town no wharfs or accommodations for shipping are to be seen. On the contrary, ships, brigs, and steam-boats, are obliged to lay off the filthy beach between the houses and the water. To account for this is difficult, 128 SHIP-BUILDING. Montreal being admirably situated for com- mercial purposes. Quebec, it is true, may be considered the principal sea-port of the pro- vince of Lower Canada, but the exclusive com- merce of the back settlements, together with its proximity to the United States and Upper Canada, give to Montreal a decided superio- rity, particularly since the large steam-boats have been established, which tow the vessels to this place from Quebec in the short space of three days. This voyage was formerly an operation of many weeks. At Montreal, we went to visit the different ship-building establishments, and were happy to find that considerable improvement had taken place in consequence of a reform in their system. The builders had fallen into such habits of negligence and dishonesty, that Cana- dian ships had quite lost their reputation in the market, but on the present more enlightened plan their credit is fast reviving. One builder in particular, has introduced all the admirable modern improvements of Sir Robert Seppings* MONTREAL. 129 From the lower extremity of the town we proceeded to the upper, where we saw the locks of the canal, eight miles in length, by means of which, the rapids of La Chine are avoided. This is a work most honourable to the public spirit and enterprize of the inhabitants. It was an expensive undertaking; and though the time it occupied in its execution was short, it has been completed in a most solid and satis- factory manner. We were much struck with the size and magnificence of the cathedral, which is now building in Montreal, under the direction ot an able architect. When completed, it will be the largest in America. It is built of blue granite, an imperishable and beautiful mate- rial, applied with great propriety to the con- struction of a building, which will prove one of the rare instances of American good taste. It is calculated that it will cost upwards of 100,000/., to be supplied by the proceeds of loans, donations, and revenues. In the centre of the town, is a monument to Lord Nelson. K 130 STATUE OF NELSON. In the progress of its erection, a failure of funds obliged the architect to “ curtail its fair proportions and it is eight feet shorter than was originally intended. It is painted blue and yellow , and the statue of the hero has been placed in a very unfortunate position ; for his face is turned towards the gaol, and his back towards the water ! ISLE OF ST. HELEN. 131 CHAPTER XI. Isle of St. Helen — Bateaux — Botanical Garden —Depar- ture from Montreal for La Chine — Scenery on the Road — Embark in a Steam-boat, at La Chine — Village of the Cascades — View of the Rapids — Coteaux du Lac— Wil- liamsberg — Prescott — Scenery near the Village of Brcck- ville — Advance of Civilization — The Lake of the Thou- sand Islands — Wretched aspect of a new American Set- tlement, called Alexandria— Moonlight Landscape. Opposite Montreal, and about half way across the stream, is the Isle of St. Helen. In crossing to see it, we acquired a notion of the difficulties encountered by the passage- boats that ply from the city to the La Prairie shore, within the American boundaries, a distance of about three miles and a half. Though the La Chine Rapids begin to subside in this place, the water rushes and foams over the numerous rocks and shoals in a truly terrific manner. k 2 132 BATEAUX-BOTANICAL GARDEN. It is here that we first fell in with the Ba- teaux, and heard the wild and melodious airs sung by their half-Indian half-Canadian boat- men, which have been so celebrated in Europe. I shall have occasion to mention them more at length in describing the descent of the St. Lawrence. The Island of St. Helen belongs to Govern- ment. Being strongly fortified, it is in charge of the Ordnance Office, and, like all places in the colonies under the care of that department, is in most perfect order. Such is the distribu- tion and arrangement of the grounds, that the Island exhibits the appearance of a beautiful park. We found fine fruit, and some of the best grapes I ever tasted, growing in the open air. A Botanical Garden has been partially laid out, but I was given to understand that Government had lately reduced the salary of the principal gardener. This will be highly de- trimental to the horticultural interests of the country, and diminish the resort of travellers, LA CHINE 133 and of the people of Montreal, to this charm- ing island. It was on this spot that the Marquis de Van- dreuil signed the surrender of Canada to the British arms, in 1760. Early on the l6th, we left Montreal for La Chine, in two coaches, similar to those I have described in my journey through the United States. The morning was beautiful and we enjoyed our journey extremely. Our road lay for many miles among cottages, and gardens, and orchards. As we receded from the city, its glittering tin steeples were seen to great advantage through the rich foliage, finely relieved in the back-ground by the lofty and woody mountain of Montreal. We did not obtain a view of the La Chine Rapids, as the road cuts off the angle of the river which con- tains them. At the village of La Chine we embarked in a small steam-boat, and proceeded to the Cas- cades, a village twenty-four miles from Mon- treal, which derives its name from the neigh- 134 THE RAPIDS. bouring rapids. It is small, and is situated on the North or English shore of the St. Law- rence. During this part of the route, the scenery is not remarkable. The country is low, but in a state of high cultivation. We here left the steam-boat, and proceeded in stage coaches. Our road now ran along the banks of the St. Lawrence, and we were both astonished and delighted by our first view of the Rapids. The river, which is in most parts from one to two miles in breadth, here be- came like one tremendous sheet of foam, and suggested to me the idea of a furious current opposed by a hurricane. The thundering torrent finely contrasted with the quiet still- ness of the lonely islands, now covered with their autumnal verdure, and which for ever <4 breast the lofty surge,” inaccessible to the foot of man. The cause of this phenomenon suggests itself at once. Wherever the course of the river is obstructed, either by islands, shallows, or rocks, it discharges its waters below with the awful and resistless violence WILLI AMSBERG. 135 which I have attempted to describe. We anxiously looked for some Bateaux, in order that we might see them descend ; but, on this occasion, our expectations were disap- pointed. We proceeded thus to Coteaux du Lac, a distance of sixteen miles, where we again embarked for Cornwall. A thick fog pre- vented our seeing much of Lake St. Francis, and we arrived about eleven at night at the place of our destination. Here we found stages awaiting us. The cold during the night was intense, but we determined to proceed, and the next morning at six, found ourselves at Williamsberg ; where we had the pleasure of sitting down to an excellent breakfast, and recruited our spirits, which were somewhat de- pressed by the miserable night we had passed betwixt the clatter of the steam-boat and the jolting of the coach. Williamsberg is I believe a township ; and if the map is worthy of credit, a town ; but we could see nothing around us but the inn 136 PRESCOTT.— B ROCKVILLE. and a few scattered cottages separated from each other by intervals of nearly half a mile. After breakfast, we again proceeded, following the course of the St. Laurence, till we arrived at Prescott, at ten in the morning. Here we found the steam-boat which was to convey us to Kingston on Lake Ontario. It was widely different from those in which we re- cently journeyed, being handsomely and com- fortably fitted up. At this spot, the scenery assumes a more interesting character; and, as we approached the little village of Brock- ville, the woody islands and rich banks of the river, whose enormous breadth continues un- diminished , formed a varied and delightful land- scape. We landed at this village, which has a church, wharfs, and every appearance of pro- sperity ; though only ten years ago the fo- rest tree reigned the undisturbed possessor of the soil : with such rapid strides has Civili- zation invaded the solitude of the wilderness ! If such has been the growth of Brockville in LAKE OF A THOUSAND ISLANDS. 137 so short a period, what she may be ten years hence who can say ? Let it be remembered* however, in our speculations, that we were now in the country into which the super- abundant population of Europe and America is pouring ; and that such an extraordinary infusion of industry and vigour must natu- rally produce uncommon and unlooked-for re- sults. In half an hour we again proceeded on our journey, and were fortunate in the state of the weather. The softness of a charming autumnal evening enhanced our enjoyment of the beau- ties of 64 The Lake of the Thousand Islands.” It bears this name, but there are, in reality, according to the latest surveys, 1700 . The shores of these islands are very bold, and the steam-boat, shooting in and out among them, continually shifted the interesting scene. Though exhibiting an endless variety of shape and size, they are all remarkable for the rich- ness of their verdure. The whole extent of the lake is never visi- 138 NEW SETTLEMENT. ble ; the prospect being bounded by the islands which immediately surround you. In the evening, as we passed an opening, we came in sight of a new settlement on the American shore. Five or six log huts formed the only habitations of the infant colony. The thick wood was cut down in its immediate vicinity, and a few wretched-looking indivi- duals were assembled around the blaze of a fire which burned in the centre. Never did I contemplate so dreary and hopeless a picture, nor a scene of such desolation : but even this place is already named Alexandria ; and bids fair in a short time to become a prosperous village : nor is it by any means improbable, so excellent is its situation, that it may in a few years possibly rival in size the city from which it derives its name. As the sun set below the islands, the full moon rose in all her beauty. The light even- ing breeze had subsided into a calm ; not a breath of air ruffled the glassy surface of the waters. Impressed with the solemnity of the NEW SETTLEMENT. 139 scene, I could not refrain from wishing that here at least nature might be permitted to reign unmolested ; but the solitary watch-fires of the recent settlers gave sufficient proof that though his tenure was as yet but frail, Man ! rapacious and indefatigable Man ! was fast es- tablishing his usurpation. 140 ARRIVAL AT KINGSTON. —LAKE ONTARIO. CHAPTER XII. Arrival at Kingston — The Lake Ontario — Reception at the Dock-yard — Ships on the Stocks — Use of Iron instead of Copper — Ice-boat ; its Construction, and Velocity on the Ice — Marine resources — Fort Henry — Dock-yard of Sackett’s Harbour, compared with that of Kingston — Embark for Niagara — Arrival at York, the Capital of Upper Canada — Wharf near Newark — Ruins of Old Fort George — Cloud on the Western horizon, formed by the spray of the Cataract — Vicinity of Queenstown — Retrocession of the Falls — Town of Lewiston — Terrific Whirlpool — Dreadful fate of a party of Indians. We arrived at Kingston at half-past eleven at night. The next morning we were agree- ably surprized to find ourselves moored among the shipping in a snug harbour, with the Lake Ontario, like the ocean, expanded before us; nor was the intelligence unwelcome that a man-of- war’s boat with an officer was in attendance to take us to our quarters at the dock-yard. We SHIPS ON THE STOCKS. 141 met with a kind reception from the officers of the establishment. The yard is large, in ex- cellent order, and completely furnished with stores of every description, which, from the dryness of the atmosphere, are exempted in an extraordinary degree from the influence of de- cay. Here we have two three-deckers, a frigate, a sloop of war, a schooner, and eleven gun- boats, all on the stocks. Their timbers are up, but they are not planked over, and the few workmen employed are occupied in keeping them in repair and replacing any unsound parts. In less than a month they could all be got ready for sea. It is remarkable that they are fastened with iron instead of copper, in conse- quence of the non-tendency of metals to rust in this country. I am inclined to believe that this phenomenon is attributed to the small quantity of saline particles existing in the atmosphere, owing to the great distance from the sea. There are several old ships of war in the har- bour, chiefly in a half sunken-state. On board one of them I saw what is called an ice-boat. 142 ICE-BOAT. It is about twenty-three feet in length, resting on three skates ; one attached to each end of a strong cross-bar, fixed under the fore-part, and the remaining one to the bottom of the rudder, which supports the stern of the vessel. Her mast and sail are similar to those of a common boat. Being placed on the ice when the Lake is sufficiently frozen over, she is brought into play. Her properties are wonderful, and her motion is fearfully rapid. She can not only sail before the wind, but is actually capable of beating to windward. It requires an experi- enced hand to manage her, particularly in tacking, as her extreme velocity renders the least motion of the rudder of the utmost conse- quence. A friend of mine, a lieutenant in the navy, assured me that he himself last year had gone a distance of twenty-three miles in an hour : and he knew an instance of an ice- boat having crossed from York to Fort Nia- gara (a distance of forty miles) in little more than three quarters of an hour. This will be readily believed, when we reflect on the velo- MARINE RESOURCES.— FORT HENRY. 143 city which such a vessel must acquire when driven on skates before a gale of wind. These boats are necessarily peculiar to the lakes of Canada. In the course of our examination of the yard, we could not but be struck by the im- mense energy of Great Britain, which had effected the completion of so enormous an un- dertaking in a country where not a single ma- terial except the wood was to be found. Here were anchors, chain and hemp cables, guns, and all the ponderous materiel of a great maritime establishment, the greater part of which had been brought hither on sledges, from Montreal, during the winter. In the short space of two years, we had built and equipped a squa- dron, of which one vessel was a three-decker : nor should it be forgotten that this great na- tional exertion was made in furtherance of a war which was but of secondary importance. We then crossed to Fort Henry, which com- mands and defends the dock-yard. The em- brasures, formed of wood, are in a very dilapi- 144 DOCK- YARD OF SACKETTS HARBOUR. dated state ; but in the progress of the line of fortification which is carrying on for the defence of Canada, this fort will shortly un- dergo a complete repair. As a protection to the dock-yard, it is admirably situated, and from its ramparts I enjoyed a fine view of the Lake and surrounding country. The dock-yard is built upon a peninsula, having a harbour on either side. Beyond the northern harbour, lies the town, which, though small and scattered, is the second city in Upper Canada. It was a cause of great regret to me that I was unable to cross the Lake to Sackett's Harbour, where the dock-yard of the United States, corresponding to our own, is situated. I am indebted, however, to a friend, for the assurance that as a naval depot the place is, at present, utterly insignificant. Since the war, the Americans have taken no pains to keep the establishment in order, or to preserve their ships from decay. Some of these have never been launched, some are sunk, and EMBARK FOR NIAGARA. 145 others laid up in ordinary ; but they are all said to be in a very ruinous state, having been hastily constructed of bad materials. In equipping their squadron on the lakes, the Americans evinced great energy. The three- decker which they built at this place was run up in forty- two days, and 800 shipwrights were employed in her construction. The dimen- sions were 182 feet 8 inches keel, 212 deck, and 52 beam. She was never launched, in consequence of the cessation of hostilities.* At four o'clock we re-crossed from the dock- yard to the town, and embarked for Niagara in the same steam-boat which had brought us from Prescott. We coasted along the north- ern shore of the Lake, which is low and uncul- tivated; but the soil, as I was given to under- stand, is fit for all agricultural purposes. * In a note at the end of the volume, I have given a statement, made up from the best information I could col- lect, of the present state of the American Navy on the Lakes ; which, united with that given in a previous note, will afford means of forming a tolerably correct judgment of the actual force of the Navy of the United States. L 146 ARRIVE AT NEWARK. Having slept on board, in the afternoon of the following day we arrived at York, the capi- tal ot Upper Canada. Its situation is low ; its bay is commodious, but small and capable only of containing vessels of light draft. The streets are well laid out, and as the back country increases in population this town pro- mises to become a place of great importance. The soil of the immediate environs is remark- able for its sterility ; but at the distance of about four miles from the town an extremely fertile and productive tract of country com- mences. We had not time to visit the Government and Parliament Houses ; the Legislative Assem- bly sits during the six winter-months of the year, which is also the season of sleighing, visiting, and merry-making. At half past eleven at night we left York for the town of Newark, which is at the mouth of the river Niagara, and is sixteen miles from the falls. Next morning (the 20th) we found that we had arrived at the wharf, which is RUINS OF OLD FORT GEORGE. 147 a mile from the town. As we had deter- mined to proceed to Queenston, about five miles up the river, in the steam-boat instead of the coach, I had only just time to walk up to the rising ground above the wharf, where I found myself among the ruins of old Fort George, which had been destroyed by the Americans in the last war, and in one of the bastions of which General Brock was at first buried. From this height I had a fine view of the mouth of the river (which appeared to be about two miles in breadth), and of Fort Nia- gara on the opposite shore, which is the key of that part of the country, and has been the scene of so many conflicts. The land in its vicinity is low, and does not at all prepare the spectator for the bold scenery of the falls, which are only fifteen miles distant. As we proceeded upwards against the rapid current, at a slow rate, we noticed that the banks of the river assumed a bolder and more rugged character. Our observation was about this time attracted bv the singular appear- l 2 148 QUEENSTON— LEWISTON. ance of a white cloud, the only one in the heavens, which seemed to hang motionless on the western horizon. What was our asto- nishment to learn that it was formed by the spray of the cataract, at this time fifteen miles distant from us. In the vicinity of Queenston, which is a small town, the face of the country suddenly alters and rises into those abrupt and elevated ridges supposed by many to have been the banks of the river in remote ages. Our party, upon the whole, were inclined to attach some credit to the theory of the gradual retrocession of the falls, and to conclude, from the peculiar cha- racter of the ground, that the river once pour- ed its waters over the heights of Queenston. The country adjacent to the river is perfectly flat. The town of Lewiston is situated opposite to Queenston, on the American side ; for the river Niagara forms one of the boundary lines of the British possessions. These towns com- municate by means of a ferry. The width of R IVEfBL IS I A GAR, A . CloUbdj of Ih/ts F crtls I) v&bvjvub .45. JElejs . ; £ ; TERRIFIC WHIRLPOOL. 149 the river is only half a mile, but the stream is so rapid that it requires a considerable time to cross, the boat having to follow the course of an eddy for nearly three quarters of a mile be- fore it can venture upon the main current. On landing we found coaches ready to con- vey us to the falls, which were now eight miles distant ; but, learning that the celebrated Whirl- pool might be seen by a slight deviation from our course, we determined to visit it first. We accordingly left the main route and entered the wood which separates it from the river. At a short distance from the spot we alighted, and guided by the roar of the waters, we found our way to this mighty vortex, though nothing was visible till we arrived upon its very brink. We then looked down from a height of three hun- dred feet into a terrific gulph, where the river, precipitated through a deep ravine, rushes round in majestic curls, and at length, finding an outlet through another chasm, with a tumultuous uproar, plunges into the recesses of the wood, u nor ceases for many a mile its 150 TERRIFIC WHIRLPOOL. sullen murmur at the rude interruption to its course/" Nothing in nature can be more awful than this scene : it was with difficulty we could con- vince ourselves that we gazed upon reality ; no painful sensation ever experienced in a hideous dream, could equal that which w r e felt upon first looking down into the deep and dark abyss which yawned below ; so perpendicular in many parts, are the sides of the precipice, that a stone may be dropped from the brink into the pool. Huge trunks of trees are constantly seen tossing to and fro in the giddy vortex, and writhing, as though tormented by its eddies. It is recorded, that in the last war, fifty Indians, flying through the night, were de- ceived by the darkness, and precipitated over the bank in the abyss. One alone, whose fall had miraculously been intercepted by the boughs of a projecting cedar, survived to tell the dreadful tale. NEIGHBOURHOOD OF NIAGARA. 151 CHAPTER XIII. Inn near the Falls of Niagara — Roar of the Fall heard on the Shores of Ontario — First View of the Cataract — Sensation of Melancholy produced by the Sight — Divi- sion and Height of the Falls. — Houses in the Neigh- bourhood — Village of Manchester, and Inn kept by an American General — Estimation of the quantity of Water which passes the Cataract — Close Approach to the Falls — Cottage of the Guide — A Rainbow— “-View at Daybreak — Visit to Sir Peregrine Maitland — Moon- light View of the Cataract. Leaving this grand and terrific scene, we returned to the high road, and, passing through a long continuation of orchards, gardens, and fertile fields, at length reached the inn which brought us within a few hundred yards of the great object of our journey. Notwithstanding our proximity, we had not hitherto obtained a glimpse of the Falls, and were astonished to find that the noise was so 152 FIRST VIEW OF THE CATARACT. inconsiderable. The road runs parallel with the course of the stream ; the banks of which are precipitous, and co-operate with a strip of wood which separates them from the road, to confine and intercept the sound. Though this may in some degree account for the circumstance, it is nevertheless a most sin- gular phenomenon, that the roai of the Fall, which, in its immediate vicinity, is not suffi- ciently loud to interrupt conversation, is occa- sionally to be heard distinctly on the shores of Ontario. Never shall I forget the intense anxiety with which I expected the sight of Niagara, and still less the awful moment, when, from the balcony of the inn, I first be- held the mighty Cataract expanded before me. To enjoy this moment I had made great sa- crifices and encountered some difficulties; I had not only protracted my absence from home, towards which I was free to return, but had increased my separation from it by a dis- tance of more than twelve hundred miles. Ample, however, was my reward. I had in UNRIVALLED GRANDEUR OF THE FALLS. 153 the course my life beheld some of the most celebrated sights of Nature; — Etna and Vesu- vius ; — The Andes, almost at their greatest ele- vation — Cape Horn, rugged and bleak, buffet- ed by the southern tempest ; and, though last not least, the long swell of the Pacific ; but nothing I had ever seen or imagined, could compare in grandeur with the falls of Niagara. My first sensation was that of exquisite de- light at having before me the greatest wonder, in my opinion, of the world. Strange as it may appear, this feeling was immediately succeeded bv an irresistible melancholy. Had this not continued, it might perhaps have been attri- buted to the satiety incident to the complete gratification of 44 hope long deferred but so far from diminishing, the more X gazed the stronger and deeper the feeling became. Yet this scene of sadness was strangely mingled with a kind of intoxicating fascination. Whe- ther the phenomenon is peculiar to Niagara, 1 know not, but certainly it has been generally observed, that the spirits are affected and 154 THE RAPIDS. depressed in a singular manner by the magic influence of this stupendous Fall. About five miles above the Cataract the river expands to the dimensions of a lake, after which it gradually narrows. The Rapids com- mence at the upper extremity of Goat Island, which is half a mile in length, and divides the river at the point of precipitation into two un- equal parts ; the largest is distinguished by the several names of the Horseshoe, Crescent, and British Fall, from its semicircular form and contiguity to the Canadian shore. The smaller is named the American Fall. A portion of this Fail is divided by a rock from Goat Island, and though here insignificant in appearance, would rank high among European cascades. The accompanying sketch, to which I beg to refer the reader, will show the relative posi- tions of the most remarkable features, and I shall content myself by stating the different dimensions as computed by the best authori- ties. The height of the British Fall is one hundred HEIGHT OF THE FALLS. 155 and seventy-five feet, and its breadth in one unbroken cascade, is seven hundred vards. The extremity of Goat Island, which separates the Cataracts, is three hundred and twenty yards in breadth ; the American Fall extends beyond that, three hundred and seventy yards broad and one hundred and sixty feet in height, making a total breadth of nearly fourteen hun- dred yards. I must not omit to mention, that though the bed of the river sinks to so great a depth, the level of the circumjacent land con- tinues the same below as above the Falls. On the Canadian side, as I have before ob- served, are situated two inns, and some few r cottages are scattered at intervals over the country, which, in point of cultivation, resem- bles a garden. On the American shore, a lit- tle above the Fall, is built the manufacturing village of Manchester. Here also are to be found excellent hotels, one of which, by the by, is kept by a General of Militia, an officer who served with distinction in the last war. The quantity of water which passes the Ca- 156 APPROACH TO THE FALLS. taract is thus computed by an American tra- veller. The river at the ferry, below the Falls, is seven furlongs wide, and, on an average, twenty-five feet deep. The current runs about six miles an hour; but supposing it to be only five miles, the quantity which passes the Falls in an hour, is more than eighty-five millions of tuns avoirdupois : if we suppose it to be six, it will be more than 102 millions ; and in a day would exceed 2400 millions of tuns. Our first object was to approach as close to the Cataract as possible ; and, leaving the inn, we descended a bank by a steep winding path to the narrow and marshy slip which forms the immediate margin of the river; along this we advanced about one hundred yards, till we ar- rived at the very verge of precipitation. A person may place himself within an inch of the Cataract. I and several of the party dipped their hands into the water. Proceeding a lit- tle farther in the direction of the stream, we came to the cottage of the guide, near which is a circular kind of corkscrew ladder, con- A RAINBOW. 157 structed round a mast, by which we descended to a path which winds along the upper part ot the debris , formed by the occasional crumbling of the precipice. By means of this path, it is practicable to reach the lower part of the Cata- ract. From a rock near the ladder, I made a sketch of the Fall : 1 had previously endea- voured to take it from a large fragment of stone which is supposed to have fallen from above ; but the spray was so extremely dense, that I got a complete soaking, and was obliged to retreat to a greater distance. This rock may be distinguished in the accompanying sketch from the circumstance of two figures being placed upon it. The day had been uncommonly fine ; and the prismatic colours of the iris, delighting the eye at every turn in the sunshine, was not one of the least pleasing varieties in this sublime prospect. A fine rainbow was visible every afternoon from our windows, overarching the foamy cloud which rises from the British fall. Our inn was an immense wooden struc- 158 VIEW OF THE FALLS AT DAYBREAK. ture, and we were comfortably accommodated. The great rush of American travellers had sub- sided, and we had the house almost to our- selves. There is another hotel of the same di- mensions, situated below the Falls ; the view ot them is equally fine from the windows of both. The next morning with renewed delight I beheld from my window — I may say, indeed, from my bed — the stupendous vision. The beams of the rising sun shed over it a variety of tints ; a cloud of spray was ascending from the crescent ; and as I viewed it from above, it appeared like the steam rising from some monstrous cauldron. After breakfast I accompanied the Admiral, to call upon Sir Peregrine Maitland, the Go- vernor of Upper Canada, in a carriage, which, like all vehicular conveyances in America, was without springs. Our drive was through mea- dow and orchard land. The house, which is Sir Peregrine’s private residence, is about four miles from the Falls, and built in the cottage MOONLIGHT VIEW OF THE CATARACT. 159 style. The approach to it is through a thick wood, and the site of the mansion is extremely picturesque. Situated on some of the highest land in the country, (which, as I mentioned be- fore, is in general flat) it commands a fine view of Lake Ontario, and the intervening plains, which in point of cultivation, may literally be styled a garden. It is only during the sum- mer months that Sir Peregrine resides here ; in the winter, he is obliged to attend the legisla- tive proceedings at York, the seat of Govern- ment. In the evening I went down with one of our party to view the Cataract by moonlight. I took my favourite seat on the projecting rock, at a little distance from the brink of the Fall, and gazed till every sense seemed absorbed in contemplation. Although the shades of night increased the sublimity of the prospect, and 44 Deepened the murmur of the falling flood,” the moon in placid beauty shed her soft in- 160 MOONLIGHT VIEW OF THE CATARACT. fluence upon the mind and mitigated the hor- rors of the scene. The thunders which bel- lowed from the abyss, and the loveliness of the falling element, which glittered like molten silver in the moonlight, seemed to complete in absolute perfection the rare union of the beautiful with the sublime. GOAT ISLAND. 161 CHAPTER XIV. Goat Island —Bridge across the Rapids between the vil- lage of Manchester and the island — Method of its con- struction — A Mineralogist — Thunder-storm — Expres- sion of an American gentleman — Degraded state of the Tuscaroras, an Indian tribe — Visit to the Cavern be- neath the Fall of Niagara — Interior of the abyss — Village of Chippewa — Welland Canal — Phenomenon of the Burning Spring. Early the next day, we set off for Goat Is- land, and pursuing the path which I have before mentioned, to the distance of about half a mile beyond the guide's cottage, we descended by a steep ladder-communication to the ferry. On the shore we found several artists taking views. The American Fall, which is nearly opposite, is seen to great advantage from this place. M 162 BRIDGE ACROSS THE RAPIDS. We crossed over, amongst waves, currents, and eddies, in a small boat ; but, although the water, from its vicinity to the cataract, is in a very disturbed state, the ferry is perfectly se- cure, and it appeared to be skilfully managed. The ascent on the American side is partly contrived by zig-zag paths, and partly by lad- ders. About midway, the view is peculiarly splendid. Seen from this situation, the torrent has no relief, and appears as if descending from the sky. A small part of Goat Island and the British Fall are seen beyond, on the right, in magnificent perspective. Goat Island is con- nected with the village of Manchester, on the American shore, by a wooden bridge, construct- ed in the very centre of the Rapid, and not more than 400 yards above the Fall. The ob- ject of this bold enterprise was to take advan- tage of the stream for the purpose of turning mills upon the island ; and the means used to effect it were as follows : — Huge beams, of ninety and a hundred feet in length, were projected from the shore, and AMEllCAl - JT A. I* Xj S Ol IIA&ARA METHOD OF ITS CONSTRUCTION. 163 from the extremity of these was suspended a wooden buttress, in the shape of a box, which, being filled with stones, was dropped into the Rapid. Having thus secured the first step of his work, the engineer proceeded in the same manner across the stream, and though the pas- sage of the bridge is really awful, it is never- theless perfectly secure. The island, sur- rounded by the Rapids, is thickly covered with wood, and exhibits a variety of striking scenery. One of the inhabitants of this singular spot is a man who sells owls, walking-sticks, and fossils. He calls himself a Mineralogist, but mountebank would perhaps be a more appro- priate appellation. Whilst viewing the beauties of the island, and making some sketches, we were surprised by a shower, which was accompanied by all the symptoms of an impending thunder-storm. Making a rapid retreat, we sought shelter at the ferry, where we stayed to observe the effect of the tempest, nor could we have taken up a m 2 164 < THUNDER-STORM. better position. The combat between the thunder and the roar of the waters was truly sublime; we could distinctly trace the progress of the loudest peals running in innumerable echoes round the whole of the watery amphi- theatre, and causing the ground perceptibly to tremble where we stood. While reflecting upon the inadequacy of language to express the feelings I experienced, or to describe the wonders which I surveyed, an American gentleman, to my great amuse- ment, tapped me on the shoulder, and 66 guess- ed"' that it was “ pretty droll !” It was diffi- cult to avoid laughing in his face, yet I could not help envying him his vocabulary, which had so eloquently released me from my di- lemma. After a tedious search for the ferryman in the village of Manchester, we at length discover- ed him and the mineralogist in the bar-room of the American hotel, listening attentively to the guide, who was reading the newspapers to STATE OF THE TUSCARORAS. 165 them. This conclave of sa«;es entertained us not a little. The rest of our party had not been so well off as ourselves ; they had gone to see a small Indian territory near Manchester, containing the remnant of the once powerful tribe of Tus- can) ras ; and, besides being saturated with rain, their expectations had been sadly disap- pointed in the object of their visit. They had been witnesses to a melancholy spectacle of human degradation, very different from the flourishing colony described in the American road-books. 66 We cannot help them that will not help themselves,” say the Americans ; but this is not the language to be used to the downcast Indian. Though sometimes deaf to the dictates of reason, the man of fallen for- tunes will listen to the voice of humanity ; and if the conquered Indian pines and dies, sur- rounded by American civilization, his fate lies heavy at the door of his powerful and unfeel- ing neighbour. 166 VISIT TO THE CAVERN Though earnestly dissuaded from the un- dertaking, I had determined to employ the first fine morning in visiting the cavern be- neath the Fall. The guide recommended my companion and myself to set out as early as six o’clock, that we might have the advantage of the morning sun upon the waters. We came to the guide’s house at the appointed hour, and disencumbered ourselves of such garments as we did not care to have wetted. Descending the circular ladder, we followed the course of the path running along the top of the debris of the precipice, which I have already described. Having pursued this track for about eighty yards, in the course of which we w r ere completely drenched, we found our- selves close to the cataract. Although enveloped in a cloud of spray, we could distinguish without difficulty the direction of our path, and the nature of the cavern we were about to enter. Our guide warned us of the difficulty in respiration which we should encounter from the spray, and re- BENEATH THE FALL. 167 commended us to look with exclusive attention to the security of our footing. Thus warned, we pushed forward, blown about and buffeted by the wind, stunned by the noise, and blind- ed by the spray. Each successive gust pene- trated us to the very bones with cold. De- termined to proceed, we toiled and struggled on, and having followed the footsteps of the guide as far as w^as possible, consistently with safety, we sat down, and having collected our senses by degrees, the wonders of the cavern slowly developed themselves. It is impossible to describe the strange un- natural light reflected through its crystal wall, the roar of the waters, and the blasts of the humid hurricane, which perpetually rages in its recesses. We endured its fury a suffi- cient time to form a notion of the shape and dimensions of this dreadful place. The cavern was tolerably light, though the sun was unfor- tunately enveloped in clouds. His disk was invisible, but we could clearly distinguish his situation through the watery barrier. 168 INTERIOR OF THE CAVERN. The fall of the cataract is nearly perpendicu- lar. The bank over which it is precipitated is of concave form, owing to its upper stratum being composed of lime-stone, and its base of soft slate-stone, which has been eaten away below 7 by the constant attrition of the recoiling waters. The cavern is about one hundred and twenty feet in height, fifty in breadth, and three hun- dred in length. The entrance was completely invisible. By screaming in our ears, the guide contrived to explain to us that there was one more point which we might have reached had the wind been in any other direction. Un- luckily it blew full upon the sheet of the cata- ract, and drove it in so as to dash upon the rock over which we must have passed. A few yards beyond this, the precipice becomes per- pendicular, and, blending with the water, forms the extremity of the cave. After a stay of nearly ten minutes in this most extraordinary abode, we gladly left it to its loathsome inha- bitants, the eel and the water-snake, who VILLAGE OF CHIPPEWA. 169 in considerable numbers crawl about its re- cesses. This day we were all confined to the house in consequence of a curious error. The wea- ther, to all appearance, was wet and stormy, the rain pattered against the windows, and we were all thrown upon our several in-door re- sources, regretting the loss of so valuable a day ; at length, remarking that several per- sons called upon the admiral, and entered the room with cheerful countenances, and their clothes not indicating bad weather, we began to make inquiries, and discovered (late in the afternoon) that there never had been a more heavenly day ; but that the wind happening to blow in the direction of the house, had driven the spray of the Fall upon the win- dows, and occasioned our provoking mis- take. The village of Chippewa and Lundy's Lane, both scenes of severe conflicts in the last war, furnished interesting rides whilst we remained in this neighbourhood. The former is a pretty 170 WELLAND CANAL. hamlet on the Niagara, above the Falls, and is the port which receives the vessels trading from Lake Erie to these parts. It is likely to become a place of considerable importance when the Welland canal, which is fed by the river Chippewa, is completed. The object of this undertaking is to connect Lakes Erie and Ontario, between which the Falls are situated, and it promises in a great measure to rival the celebrated American canal from New York to Lake Erie, in the supply of the interior. The distance of Montreal, which is one of our great depots, from hence, is less than that of New York ; and the part of Erie, where the Welland will enter, is clear of ice five weeks earlier than Buffalo, the mouth of the American canal, where it is accumulated by the current and winds at the commencement of the spring. With these advantages, it is more than pro- bable, that through the Canadas, all the back country will be supplied with merchandize; and if this be the case, it will prove a most INJUDICIOUS MEASURE OF THE GOVERNMENT. 171 powerful addition to the energies of that al- ready prosperous country. It is proposed also to form a canal which is to connect the Ottawa river with Lake On- tario, thus avoiding the navigation of the St. Lawrence, in that part of the river where, one shore belonging to the United States, would subject the conveyance of military stores to in- terruption, in the event of a war. Indeed, the British Government appears to be taking every precaution to secure the effectual defence of Canada. The only measure considered at all injudicious which they appear to have in con- templation, is the proposed cession of Drum- mond's Island to the Americans. This creates universal surprise and regret, as that point is the key of all communication between Lakes Huron and Superior. There is a remarkable phenomenon, called the Burning Spring, a little above the Falls. The water, which is in a constant state of ebulli- tion, is black and warm, emitting a large por- tion of sulphurated hydrogen gas. By means 172 THE BURNING SPRING. of an inverted tab, with a tube fixed in the upper part of it, this gas is concentrated, and being ignited, makes a beautiful flame. A mill, which stood at this place, was furnished with light by this means during some months in the year ; but we were told, that in winter the water loses its properties. After passing a week at the Falls of Nia- gara, I left them with the deepest regret; their charm had by no means subsided, and with a most painful feeling did I bid them adieu. DEPARTURE FROM THE FALLS. 173 CHAPTER XV. Departure from the Falls — Embark at Newark — Gale of Wind -Lord Selkirk’s unfortunate Settlement — Anec- dote -Remarks on Emigration to Canada — Irish Emi- grants — Inefficiency of Emigration to check the super- abundant Population of the Mother Country. On the evening of my departure I dined and slept at the house of the Lieutenant-Go- vernor, where the next morning our party called to take me up. We passed through Queenston, and embarked at Newark in the Frontenac steam-boat (722 tons). Shaping our course across the lake direct for King- ston, we were soon out of sight of land. Be- fore sunset there was every indication of bad weather, and in the night there came on a heavy gale from the N.W. ; the swell was con- 174 LORD SELKIRK’S UNFORTUNATE SETTLEMENT. siderable, and the motion of the boat, although of such bulky proportions, was much felt. Thursday, 28th September. This morning we were extremely amused by finding that one of our party, a brother officer of mine, had been very sea-sick. In a sailor’s eye, to be sea- sick on fresh water is ludicrous in the highest degree. This was the last trip the steam-boat was to make, after which she was to be laid up for the winter. A smaller one was to cross the lake only four or five times more ; so early are they obliged to prepare for the Canadian winter. During our voyage, Lord Selkirk’s unfortu- nate settlement became the subject of conver- sation among the passengers. As far as I can judge, it appears, that though there were faults on both sides, the North-West Company were the aggressors. It is but too notorious, that, incited and encouraged by them, a lawless band of armed half-breeds and voyageurs at- tacked the infant settlement, killed Governor ANECDOTE. 175 Semple, with several of his followers, and dis- persed the remainder. The Hudson’s Bay and the N. W. Companies have since merged into one concern, and comparatively little fur is ex- ported by way of Canada. I believe that this change is not much regretted, as the profligacy of the half-breeds, and others employed in that trade, was any thing but beneficial to the morals of the lower orders in that country. At twelve o'clock we arrived at Kingston, having been twenty-four hours in crossing the lake, a distance of one hundred and eighty miles. A circumstance occurred to me during the passage, which I must not omit to mention. Having observed a very dirty and ragged, but seamanlike-looking man amongst the few working hands on board, I was induced to ask him his story. It appeared that he had been a petty officer on board the St. Law- rence, which was Sir James Yeo's flag-ship on Lake Ontario : when she was laid up at the conclusion of the war, this man, according 176 REMARKS ON EMIGRATION. to promise, received a grant of land to the amount of two hundred acres ; by dint of great industry, he succeeded in putting the larger part of this into a state of cultivation, and was able to employ several labourers. Although he had obtained this prosperous condition, and possessed most of the actual necessaries of life, yet such was the scarcity of money, that he was glad to work occasionally as a seaman on board the steam-boats in order to earn a few dollars. This is the com- mon fate of new settlers. The market for the produce of their land is overstocked, and the expense of sending corn and cattle to a dis- tant mart, absorbs the profit on the sale. This circumstance leads me to make a few casual remarks on emigration. Unquestionably, no man who is willing to make the slightest exertion, can starve in America. If he will undertake to clear a farm, the means of subsistence are at once secured : should his habits unfit him for such an under- taking, the price of labour is so high, that he IRISH EMIGRANTS. 177 is sure of lucrative employment in whatever capacity he chooses to enter the service of a master. So far the prospects of the emigrant are encouraging and agreeable. But let us turn for a moment to the other side of the picture. Let us contemplate the exile seeking the portion allotted to him in the wilds of the forest, with the compass for his guide, doomed to endure in his wretched log- hut the rigours of a Canadian winter, without a human being for many miles around to break his solitude or assist his labours No village, no shop of any description, no medical advice within his reach, and, worse than all, the lonely tenant of the woods is generally remote from any market where he may dis- pose of the hard-earned fruits of his labours. I learned with much satisfaction, that those Irish emigrants who came over last year, under the protection of Government, are doing re- markably well. A small portion of them cross- ed the frontier and tried their fortune in the United States. I was somewhat surprised to 178 EMIGRATION. hear that they were in request as domestic ser- vants ; but, with the exception of this particu- lar calling, Canada is considered to present greater advantages to the settler. Indeed, taxation is so much lighter, and the security of property so much greater from the more equal administration of the laws, that numbers of Americans cross over daily for the purpose of establishing themselves in Upper Canada. I enjoyed frequent opportunities of hearing the sentiments of well-informed persons upon the subject of emigration. There seemed to be but one opinion as to the advantages resulting to America from an influx of British settlers ; but I am inclined to agree with those who con- sider that, in respect to Great Britain herself, it affords only a temporary remedy for a con- tinually increasing disease. The root of the. evil is at home. We must look to the wise restrictions of our own legislature, and to our own resources, for a check to the redundancy of our population. EMIGRATION. 179 Why does the population of America mul- tiply in such rapid progression ? Simply be- cause the number of its inhabitants bears no proportion to its means of subsistence, and be- cause population in all countries has a tendency to gravitate to the point where it meets the powers of support. If there be any truth in this principle, it must surely follow, that by encou- raging emigration, we only open a door to more extensive means of subsistence, and hold out inducements to more active propagation. The increase of the people will always keep pace in an exact ratio with the draft of emigration ; nor must the disadvantage be overlooked, that the enterprising and industrious are almost in- variably the persons found to emigrate, whilst the idle and dissolute remain at home. But in offering these observations, and in suggesting the inefficiency of emigration as a check upon population, I speak with the greatest diffidence and humility, and leave to political economists the elucidation of a subject which n 2 180 EMIGRATION. involves such difficult and intricate calcula- tions. Experience will ere long establish the truth or fallacy of these views of the question. May she also, in her sure and steady course, point out a remedy for the evils of which we complain. LAKE OF THE THOUSAND ISLANDS. 181 CHAPTER XVI. Return over the Lake of the Thousand Islands — Rapid change of seasons in Canada — Project for a Dry Dock — Leave Prescott in a Bateau — Description of the vessel and boat’s crew — Shooting the Rapids — Wild melodies sung by the Rowers — Approach to the Longue Sault Rapid — Lake St. Francis — Miserable accommodation at Lancaster, a Scotch village — Resume the voyage on Lake St. Francis — Town and Rapid of Coteau du Lac — Cedar Rapids — and terrific passage of a Raft — Gasca- nade of the Natives — Village of La Chine — Arrival at Quebec — Directions for travelling in America — Profes- sional object of the Author in his Tour. At twelve we left Kingston in the steam- boat, and passed swiftly over the Lake of the Thousand Islands. Since we had last been here, Autumn had considerably altered the livery of the woods and islands ; and we had an opportunity of observing the rapid change of seasons for which the Canadas are so re- 182 PROJECT FOR A DRY DOCK. markable. We arrived at Prescott about nine in the evening, after taking in fuel at Manni- noquoi, and Grenadiers Island, in the course of the voyage. Towards the conclusion of the war, a plan was in contemplation to construct a dry dock for repairing the ships employed on the lakes, at Manninoquoi. Within a short distance of these is a lake, whose level is about 20 feet higher than that of the St. Lawrence. It was intended that a dock, one-half of which was to form a wide ledge, or platform, should be cut in the bank of the river. The vessel was to be admitted into the lower half of the enclosure, the gates shut, and sufficient water introduced from the lake to float and place her upon the mound or ledge which I have mentioned. The water from the lake being let off, she would of course remain high and dry for purposes of inspection or repair. The sudden termination of the war prevented the execution of this simple and ingenious design. We passed the night at Prescott, and em- SHOOTING THE RAPIDS. 183 barked the next morning at six o'clock in a bateau, which was to convey us down the Rapids to Montreal. The day was rainy and damp, and the vessel afforded but indifferent shelter from the elements. The bateau of the St. Lawrence is a flat-bottomed boat, pointed at both ends, and in general very gaily painted. Ours belonged to the government, and was superior to the generality of them. She had five oars ; the cabin, or covered place, which contained a table, was situated nearly in the centre of the boat, with three of the oars in front and two behind it. Our conductor, or pilot, was a fine old Cana- dian who spoke only French. He wore a bon - net rouge and a grey surtout with a scarlet sash, and showed great dexterity in the use of the paddle with which he steered. Most of the boaFs crew were dressed in the same costume as the pilot, and pulled extremely well with a short stroke. We breakfasted at Williams- berg, and on our way shot the Rapide Plat with the greatest ease. We were, I must confess, 184 BOAT SONGS. rather disappointed as to the difficulty of the descent, which we expected would have been more dangerous. In persons unaccustomed to the sea, the Rapids may possibly excite appre- hension, but to us they certainly appeared any thing but terrific. On re-embarking, the weather cleared up, and revived the spirits of our rowers, who now com- menced their boat-songs to our great delight. The conductor had previously made many apologies for not having any of his best singers on board, but the songs he produced gave us a good idea of their general style. The boat- songs are joyous French airs, sung to the quick movement of the oars ; the stanza is given by the steersman, and the rowers join in chorus at the end. On a summer's evening, to hear the echo of these wild melodies, softened by the distance, is indescribably pleasing. The roar of the torrents soon apprized us of our approach to the Longue Sault Rapid, which is nine miles in length. The song ceased, and the men lay on their oars, as we shot down it at a tremendous rate. We observed that LAKE ST. FRANCIS. 185 the pilot's great object was to enter it where the water was smoothest, and consequently deepest ; as, when this is effected, he is sure of going safely down with the main body of the stream. In the passage of this Rapid we took in water. A large and broad rock lay in the middle of our course, we were hurried over it, and the boat, as we descended on the other side, meeting the curling wave formed by the reaction of the current, was forced through it, and caused us a partial wetting. We passed the town of Cornwall, and several villages, on the Canadian side; which exhibits a most favourable contrast with the American, in point of cultivation. The rapidity of our course, and the ever- varying scenery, agreeably beguiled the hours till we entered Lake St. Francis, where our progress became tedious and uninteresting; being not only deprived of the advantage of the current and the beauty of the prospect, but impeded by a head-wind, which sprung up towards evening. Hungry and tired, (for we had all been labouring at the oar,) we at 186 RAPID OF COTEAU DU LAC. length arrived, about nine o’clock, at Lancaster, a wretched Scotch village. After a bad and meagre supper, the more bitterly felt from having had no dinner, I suc- ceeded with difficulty in obtaining a bed at a neighbouring barn, miscalled a Public House. Monday, 2nd of October, famished and dis- contented — for these trans- Atlantic Scotchmen, refining upon their native abstemiousness, could afford us nothing for breakfast, — we took leave of Lancaster, and again found ourselves on the Lake of St. Francis. Two of our voyageurs , or boatmen, being knocked up, we manned their oars ourselves, which was by no means disagreeable from the coldness of the morn- ing. We had fine weather, and a breeze at length springing up, we hoisted our sail, and were soon wafted to the extremity of the lake. Here we descended the Coteau du Lac Rapid, which was very grand, and landed at the town about twelve o’clock. We saw from our window several rafts shoot the Rapid, CEDAR RAPIDS. 187 a process which has a very striking effect from the shore. The town of Coteau du Lac is the port of entry, where the rafts are duly registered and taxed. As they approach it, their con- ductors separate them into portions of about one hundred feet square, and take in pilots to steer them through the succession of Rapids, which commence at this place. On re-embarking we soon found ourselves in the Cedar Rapids. We were followed closely a-stern by two Indians, who had lashed their canoes together upon the principle of a double boat, in such a manner that it was impossible they could upset. In this descent we overtook a raft, and observed with intense interest the efforts of the crew, consisting of twelve men and a pilot, whose utmost strength was exerted to keep the unwieldy mass in the channel. The circumference of the raft is fitted at inter- vals with oars, and the yells and screams with which the men flew from one to another, con- 188 GASCONADE OF THE NATIVES. scious that a single mistake would prove in- stantaneously fatal, were truly appalling. Such was the rush of the waters, and so powerful the attraction of the whirlpools and eddies, that at one moment we nearly touched our ponderous companion, and in the next were hurried far away. This is considered the most dangerous of the Rapids, and is with reason dreaded by the Ca- nadians. They, however, regard them all with much apprehension, which is testified by the various invocations and signs of the cross in their approach to them, and by loud and piercing yells during the descent. In proportion to their cowardice in the hour of danger is their insolence when it has passed. They boast with the most shameless effrontery of the courage which they have displayed, loudly extolling their own heroic deeds and feats of personal prowess. We entered the Cascades Rapid about three o'clock, and sailed on quietly and smoothly ARRIVAL AT QUEBEC. 189 from thence to the village of La Chine. There we arrived at five ; and as it was too late to go down the Rapid, we took coach to Montreal, where we dined and slept. Embarking the fol- lowing evening in the steam-boat, we reached Quebec, after a voyage of thirty hours, at ele- ven o'clock on the night of the 4th of October. The ease and rapidity with which I accom- plished this tour of the most interesting part of North America, filled me with surprise that it was not more generally visited by European travellers. The average voyage from Liverpool to New York is about twenty days; between which place and Niagara the distance is per- formed in four days ; from thence Quebec is reached in about a week, where, by a judicious selection of seasons, the traveller may ensure a westerly wind, which wafts him swiftly back to England. By extending his tour an addi- tional month, he may visit, besides, all the prin- cipal cities of the United States, with the ex- ception of New Orleans, and return home, 190 REFLECTIONS ON AMERICA. having seen all that is most remarkable in North America, in the short space of three months. Though embellished by no monument of antiquity, and destitute of those charms of classical associations which present to the traveller in the old world continued sources of information and delight, America must be admitted to exhibit to the naturalist, the philosopher, and the statesman, a field of at least equal interest, and at least equal in- struction : a field where the paths are yet untrodden, where mighty prospects open at every turn, and where experience is too young to be a guide. Every thing in America is upon a gigan- tic scale. How enormous are its resources ! How boundless its extent ! Its lakes vie with the ocean in magnitude, and its provinces with mighty empires. From the energies she has displayed in her infancy, to what powers may not her maturity aspire ? I leave such speculations to those who are PROFESSIONAL OBJECTS. 191 better able to investigate them. My humble lucubrations were directed, during my tour, to points more immediately connected with my own profession ; and I took my leave of America, with the satisfactory conviction that the naval strength of the United States has been greatly exaggerated — that they have neither the power nor the inclination to cope with Great Britain in maritime warfare — far less to presume to dispute with her the Do- minion of the Seas. * . . . ' . • • , ' . - • '• ■ . ' , i ■ ' NOTES. NOTES. NOTE I. The following is the official list of the Ame- rican Navy, as it existed in the beginning of 1826, with such additions and corrections as I have been able to make. If any deviation is observed from this account, in my description of the Dock- yards, it must be borne in mind that my inspec- tion of them took place some months after this return was made. Ships of the Line, 7. Official Actual When No. of No. of Built. Guns. Guns. Where Built. Station. Columbus . 74 — 1819 Washington Boston in ordi- nary. Delaware . 74 — — Norfolk Norfolk, ditto. Franklin 74 86 1815 Philadelphia New York, do. Independence 74 — 1814 Boston Boston, do. North Carolina 74 102 — Philadelphia Mediterranean. Ohio 74 102 1810 New York New York in ordinary. Washington 74 — 1816 o Portsmouth N. H. 2 New York, do. 196 NOTES. Frigates, 1st Class, 6. Names. Official Actual No. of No. of Guns. Guns. When Built. Where Built. Station. Brandywine 44 62 — Washington Mediterranean. Constitution 44 56 1797 Boston Mediterranean. Guerriere . 44 — 1814 Philadelphia Norfolk, in ordinary. Java 44 60 1814 Baltimore Boston, do. Potomac 44 60 — Washington Hauled up at Washington. United States 44 54 1797 Philadelphia Pacific. Frigates, 2d Class, 4. Congress 36 __ 1797 Portsmouth, Repairing, at N. H. Washington. Constellation 36 48 1797 Baltimore GulfofMexico. Macedonian 36 48 — Repairing at Norfolk. Fulton (Steam) — — — This vessel I have men- tioned as a failure. Corvettes, 2. John Adams Cyane . . 24 24 — 1799 Charleston, S.C. , West Indies. Mediterranean. Sloops of War, 4. Erie 18 1813 Baltimore Mediterranean. Hornet . . 18 20 1805 Washington West Indies. Ontario . . 18 — 1813 Baltimore Mediterranean. Peacock . . 18 — ■ 1813 New York Pacific. NOTES. 197 Other Vessels. N anics. Official Fio. of Guns. Where Built. Station. Dolphin (schooner) 12 Philadelphia Seven of these Fox ditto 3 Purchased are employed in Grampus ditto 12 Washington different parts Porpoise ditto 12 Portsmouth, N. H. of the world. Shark ditto 12 Washington. Spark (brig) 12 Purchased. Terrier (schooner) 3 Decoy (ship) 3 Alert ditto Seagull (galliot) Abstract. In Commission. In Ordinary. Ships of the Line 1 6 Frigates, 1st Class 3 3 2d Class 1 3 Corvettes 2 - Sloops of War 4 - Schooners, &c. 7 2 . remarkable circumstance, that in the official returns of 1819, the ships on the Lakes are enumerated, while in those of the beginning of 1826 they are not even noticed. Seven years (by all accounts, of decay) have elapsed between the two periods. SHIPS AND VESSELS BUILDING. Dock-yard. Boston New York Norfolk Ships of the Line. Frigates. Sloops of War. { Vermont, 102") ( Warren, 22 l Virginia, 1023 ( Falmouth, 22 j Savannah, 1 Sabina, j Fairfield, 22 62 > Natchez, 102 Philadelphia Pennsylvania, 135 Rariton, 198 NOTES. Dock-yard. Ships of the Line. Fiigates. Portsmouth, | Alab N. H. / Washington Ships of the Line. Built 7 Building 5 12 102 Santu, 62 Susquehanna, 62 TOTAL. Frigates. Sloops of War. 10 16 5 3 15 19 Sloops of War. Grand Total — 46 Vessels of War of all des- criptions, built and building ! 199 NOTE II. NAVY LIST OF THE UNITED STATES, 1825-6. Captains, 33. Senior, Commission of, dated 1799 ; of Junior, dated 1825. Pay of Captains commanding ships above 32 guns, one hun- dred dollars a month, and eight rations. Pay of Captains commanding ships under 32 guns, seventy- five dollars a month, and six rations. Masters Commandants, 27. Senior, Commission of, dated 1814; of Junior, dated 1825. Pay sixty dollars a month, and five rations. Lieutenants, 212. Senior, Commission of, dated 1809. Junior, dated 1825. Pay of Lieutenant commanding, fifty dollars a month, and four rations. Pay of ditto, not commanding, forty dollars a month, and three rations. Sailing Masters, 43. Surgeons, 40. Mates, 35. 'Pursers, 42. Chaplains, 10. Midshipmen passed, 16; Midshipmen, 367. In 1819, the number of Captains was 34; Mas- ters Commandant, 22 ; Lieutenants, 205 ; Sur- geons, 50: —so that in seven years no increase has taken place in this department. 200 NOTE III. LIST OF SHIPS ON THE LAKES, EXTRACTED FROM THE OFFICIAL RETURNS OF la!9. Names. Guns. Station. Confiance 37 Lake Champlaine. Eagle 20 Ditto. Linnet 16 Ditto, sunk. Saratoga 26 Ditto. Ticonderaga 17 Ditto. Detroit 18 Lake Erie. Lawrence 18 Sunk. Queen Charlotte 14 Sunk. Chippewa 106 On stocks, Lake Ontario. Jefferson 22 Lake Ontario. Mohawk 56 Ditto. Madison 22 Ditto. Orleans 106 On stocks. Oneida 18 Decayed. Pike 28 Lake Ontario. Superior 64 Ditto Sylph 20 Ditto This list I have inserted merely to satisfy curiosity ; as, after what I have said of the de- cayed state of these vessels, the account of them must cease to be of any interest. INDEX. Abraham, plains of, 120. Actors, English, theatrical tours through the American towns profitable to, 127. Albany, town of, 84. America, democracy first tried upon a grand scale in, 24; ac- count of a sermon preached in, 26, 27 ; brief view of so- ciety, 27, 28 ; state of the art of painting in, 42, 43 ; state of religion, 50; of society and customs at New York, 51, 55, 57 ; rapidity with which books are printed there, 80; mountains of, differ in character from European, 81 ; short time in which the principal objects of interest in, can be visited by tourists, 189 ; reflections upon 190, 191. American Navy, mistake respecting, 41. Inn, accommodations of, 85, 86, 89, 90. Stage-coach described, 86, 87. enterprize, instance of, 162, 163. Andes, 153. Andre, Major, his death alluded to, 82. Baltimore, baths at, 34 ; Museum, 35 ; general appearr.nce of, 35, 36 ; Theatre, 37 ; famous for ship-building, 38. Bateaux, of St. Lawrence, manner of constructing, 183. L Canadian, wild song of the boatmen of, 132. Bermuda, 110. Block Island, 2. 202 INDEX. Boston, approach to, 90 ; town, 92, 93 ; dock-yard described, 94, 95, 96. Boston, The, vessel so called in New York dock-yard described, 61. Brandywine, The, vessel so called in New York, 60. Brocke, General, monument to, in St. Paul’s, 119 ; spot where he was buried, 147. Brooklyn, 60. Brockville, village of, 136. Bunker’s Hill, briefly noticed, 91. Buonaparte, Joseph, 9, 10, 42. Burke, his panegyric on Wolfe, 121. Burning Spring, account of, 171, 172. Canada, Summer residence of the Governor-general of, de- scribed, 125. Canadian boatmen, gasconade of, 188 ; songs of, 184. Carrol, Mr., one of three surviving persons who signed the Deed of Independence, 87. Cascades, village of, 133. Cascades Rapid, 188. Catskil mountains, 83. Cedar Rapids described, 187, 188. Chesapeak Bay, 12 ; scenery of, 39. Chippewa, village of, 169, 170. Coasting-schooner, comforts of, described, 102. Congress, proceedings of, 21,22; not calculated for the dis- patch of business, 23. Coteaux du Lac, 135; rapid of, 186; town, 187. Deerfield, village of, 89. Delaware River, 45 ; scenery of, 10. Democracy, first tried upon a great scale in America, 24. Drummond’s Island, 171. Eastport, town of, 98 ; public reading-room, 99. Elk River, 12. INDEX. 203 Emigration, remarks on, 176, 177, 178, 179, 180. Emigrants, Irish, state of, 177. England, the destruction of, confidently predicted by an Ameri- can preacher, 26, 27. English dinner, comparison of with an American table d’hote , 10 6 . Franklin, The, vessel so called, in New York dock-yard, 64. Fulton, The, steam-vessel of New York, described, 64, 65. Fundy, Bay of, 97. George’s Town, a suburb of Washington, 20, 25. George, Fort, ruins of, 147. Goat Island, fine view of the Falls of Niagara obtained from, 161; Island described, 165; thunder-storm, 164. Green Mountains, 88. Haliburton, Mr., argument of, on the maritime power of Ame- rica, 69, 76. Halifax, town of, 109; dock-yard of, 110. Hoboken, village of, 56. Horn, Cape, 153. Horton River, 104; village of Horton, fertility of the soil, 105. Hudson River, The, beautiful scenery of described, 81. Hurons, The, Indian tribe, 119; reply of the Chief of, ib. Jackson, General, considerable majority of popular votes for him, in the election for President, 22. Ice-boat described, 142. Inclined plane, Commodore Porter’s, 17. Indians, deputation of, to Congress, and speech of the chief of, 29, 30, 31 ; account of them, 34, 35. Jefferson, the little importance attached by him to the maritime interests of America, 77. John, St., town of, 105. Kingston, 136, 140; harbour of, 141; ships on the stocks at, 141; maritime resources at, 143; Fort Henry, ib. ; dock-yard, 144. 204 INDEX. La Chine Rapids, 129, 131 ; village of, 133. Lake of the Thousand Islands, 137, 181. Lewiston, 148. Lorette, Indian village of, 118. Lumberers, their mode of life, 123 ; excesses committed by them, ib. Lundy’s Lane, village of, 169. Maitland, Sir Peregrine, Governor of Upper Canada, summer residence of, 158, 159. Mammoth, The, at Baltimore, 35. Manchester, town of, noticed, 155. Manninoquoi, intended dry dock at, 182. Maryland, allusion to, 13. Mawworm, American, specimen of pulpit eloquence from an, 26, 27. Mines, Bay of, described, 103, 104, 107. Montmorency, Falls of, 112, described, 116, 117. Montreal, rapidity of the current at, 126 ; hotel at, ib. ; town of described, 127, well situated for commerce, 128 ; rapids of La Chine at, 129 ; cathedral of, ib. ; shipbuilding esta- blishments of, 128 ; tin steeples of the churches, 133. Nelson, Lord, monument to, at Montreal, 129. Newark, 146. New York, 6 ; scenery of the bay of, 3 ; performances at the theatre, 4 ; principal inns of, described, 5 ; duties of im- portation at, trifling, 57 ; Mr. Kean there, 46, 48 ; So- ciety at, 47, 48 ; Museum, 49 ; Episcopalian church de- scribed, 50; Castle Garden, 59 ; Dock-yard, 60, 61, 62, 63. Niagara, Falls of, 1, 2, 124, 147, 148; inn near, 151; front view of the cataract, 152 ; unrivalled grandeur of the falls, 153, 154, 155; approach to the falls, 156; view of the falls at daybreak, 157, 158 ; falls seen by moonlight, 159, 160; view of, from Goat Island, 161 ; bridge across INDEX. 205 the rapids, 162; cavern beneath the fall, 166, 167, 168 ; burning spring near, 171, 172. Niagara River, one of the boundaries, 172; the British do- minions, 148; whirlpool in, 149, 150. Niagara Fort, 147. North West Company, attack on Lord Selkirk’s settlement, en- couraged by the, 175. Nova Scotia, government of, 109. Ohio, The, vessel so called in New York dock-yard, described 62. Ontario, Lake, 159; described, 137, 140. Ottava River, 171. Pacific Ocean, the long swell of, 153. Panama, Congress of, 21, 22. Pennsylvania, The, vessel so called in dock-yard at Philadelphia, 40,41. Philadelphia, view of the town, 10; dock-yard of, 11, dock- yard, and ships there, described, 40, 41 ; exhibition of pictures, 42 ; neat appearance of the streets, 43 ; methods to mitigate the heats in summer, 43 ; waterworks at, 43, 44. Potomac, The, frigate so called, 17. Prescott, 182. Putapsco, The, 39. Quakers, latitude allowed to, in America, as to dress, 11. Quebec, first view of the city of, 111 ; town of described, 113 5 commerce of, 115. Queenston, 148. Randolph, John, representative for Virginia, his violence and coarse oratory, 100. Rapids, shooting the, 183, 184, 185, 186, 187, 188. Rariton River, 7. Ross, General, spot where he was killed, 39. Sackett’s Harbour, dock-yard at, 144. 20 6 INDEX. St. Francis, Lake, 185, 186. St. Helen, Isle of, 131, 132. St. Lawrence, The, 111, 114, 126 ; the Rapids of, described, 134. Sandy Hook, 3. Selkirk’s, Lord, fate of his settlement, 174. Semple, Governor, death of, 175. Settlers, new, difficulties which they have to contend with, 175, 176, 1 77. Shipbuilding, improvement in the construction of a vessel at New York, 61 ; peculiarity of the American vessels, 64. Slaves, price of the, taken by the British, settled, 21. Stage-coaches, American, described, 8, 9. Staten Island, scenery of, 45, 46. Steam-boats, American, described, 7, 12. Tourists, short time in which the principal objects of interest in America may be seen by, 189. Trois Rivieres, contested election at, 124. Troy, town of, 84. Tucasee Mathla, 34. Tuscaroras, Indian tribe of, their degraded state, 165. United States, proceedings of Congress, 21, 22 ; dock-yards of, described, Philadelphia, 11; Washington, 16 — 19; Phi- ladelphia, 40, 41 ; New York, 60 — 63 ; Boston, 94- — 96 ; Halifax, 110; Sackett’s Harbour, 144; notion respecting their hostile feelings to Englishmen, without foundation, 57 ; parsimony of the government in the marine department, 63; difficulty experienced in manning their vessels, 65; 66 ; maritime power of, 68, 69 ; trade of the Southern States of, 72, 76, 77, 78; military academy of, noticed, 82. Vaudreuil, Marquis de, Canada surrendered by, to the British, 133. Vaughan, Mr., 2, 15, 28. Washington, his cruelty in condemning Major Andre, 82; ca- pital described, 14, 15; dock-yard of, described, 16, 17, INDEX. 207 IS, 19; monument at, mutilated by the British, 19; ap- pearance of, 20 ; campaign, 27, 28. Welland Canal, for what purpose undertaken, 170. Williamsberg, town of, 135. Wolfe, General, spot where he fell, 120; the stone commemo- rating his death, sunk by the selfishness of the proprietor of the land, 121 ; panegyric pronounced on by Burke, 124 ; memorial to in Quebec, 122. Wolfe’s Cove, 124. York, the capital of Upper Canada, 145, 146. \ THE END. LONDON PRINTED BY S AND R. BENTLEY, DORSET STREET