s5 ■ / p i': ! ! V / PLAN DE LA PARTIE DE PARIS Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2019 with funding from Getty Research Institute https://archive.org/details/exhibitionofartiOOexpo RUTH. ENGRAVED BY J.H.BAKEU, FROM THE STATUE BY V. THEED r.ONDOTsr, ruBiisu kd fob the proprietors . PUBLISHERS: VIRTUE & CO., LONDON; STASSIN & XAVIER, PARIS. THE GETTY CENTER LIBRARY THE PARIS EXHIBITION. THE AETISTIC, INDUSTRIAL, AND COMMERCIAL RESULTS OF THE UNIVERSAL EXPOSITION OF 1855. BY GEORGE WALLIS, Head Master of the Government School of Art, Birmingham, and Deputy Commissioner of Juries in the Great Exhibition of 1951. X . y f the Great Exhibition of 1851 brought the industries of Europe “ face to -TH ijfl * lace,” and broadly illustrated their excellencies and peculiarities, the Ifm /afk^A Universal Exposition of 1855 makes us TkxMI $JhL. acquauited with the more detailed features of each special ite, and we are tPIkI "“yFv enabled to realise in a far more ac- LSAk curate manner the position in which lb Jl A '8||il (VJJ they stand in relation to each other, as Q)\ (Lil fnl well as recognise their aspirations 0il ' We shall not condescend to look at ■S/V* ((( 'sEftSL i m} this question as one merely affecting British supremacy in manufactures. This is the y Li vulgar notion of the mere pedlar, and it is to ifj tyQ fRrJ.YUs be regretted that it prevails to a greater ex- v_ Y tent than people are always willing to fJloui H acknowledge. He who looks at a question '§£SQ>'V \ " like this only so far as it affects himself, will \(p> find that his expedition after “wool” will liM 1 end in Ids being “shorn.” The real question at , issue is how far all are benefited by a compa- rison of ideas, of modes of action, and of results. The claim of any country or any people to an exclusive right in the pursuits of industry, or supreme intelligence in its application, is quite as doubtful as the claim of any individual to universal knowledge, or the undisputed possession for all time of any invention or discovery : for though human law may recognise, and wisely so, the exercise of an exclusive privilege, limited as to time and conditions of use, a higher law must ever enforce the great prin¬ ciple, that all the powers of man in their varied uses and develop¬ ments are given for the general good of the human family, whilst the puny policy which is ever clinging to exclusive advantages alone, will find itself thrust to the wall by a wider and more sympathetic course of action, arising out of the expanding tenden¬ cies of the human mind. The development of any idea will ever be according to its utility : for however much its very existence as an ultimate fact may be endangered and postponed by the selfishness, the peculiar idiosyn- cracies or the mal-versions of individuals or of nations, its growth must inevitably depend upon how far it is calculated to be per¬ manently useful to mankind as a whole. Industrial and artistic Expositions are amongst the most marked manifestations of the active mental and physical progress of modern times, and whether we view them from the point which has hitherto characterised the previous efforts of the French, as a periodical display of national progress, exclusively confined to the exposition of the industry, science, and the arts in France, as an old country and a leader of civilisation ; or look at them from the humbler stand-point of those “state fairs,” which have grown up with, and presented themselves as symptoms of a more recent state of society in the United States of America; we are compelled to acknowledge their value as adapted to both conditions. Extending the merely national display of France, and the more circumscribed provincial gatherings of America, to the international arena of the Great Exhibition of 1851, we realise in a still more marked degree the uses of the great elements of comparison thus instituted ; and whatever might have been the relative faults of administration and execution in the Universal Exposition of Paris of 1855, its realisation as it stands finally before the world, is at once a triumph for Art, Science and Industry, and a further evidence of how much men may benefit themselves by a cosmopolitan effort directed towards the promotion of the higher material interests of their fellow men. The aggregation in 1855, of industrial progress in France since 1849, wisely extended to a free invitation to all other countries to display in what relation they stand to each other in the field of manufacturing and mechanical science, cannot fail to reflect back upon the future products of the French people a large amount of that knowledge which other nations have from time to time gathered in its more exclusive displays; whilst the triumphs of the larger field of comparison must be doubly dear to those whose suc¬ cess meets with recognition in a competition so honourable to all con¬ cerned. We shall not stop here to inquire, whether these individual competitions and rewards are sound in principle, healthy in action, or conducive to the true interests of Art and Science as applied to industry, since, however, much experience may have led us to conclusions by no means favourable to the practice, yet in France, at least, custom may be pleaded for its observance, and there can be little doubt that in the earlier progress of its periodical exposi¬ tions the selection of a certain number of exhibitors as being worthy of special recognition for extraordinary efforts, or the display of great skill, had its uses. It is equally clear too, that under more matured developments the abuses have been both serious and numerous. To this point we shall recur in due course, since the future success of these periodical displays must depend very largely upon clear views of their ultimate action upon the commerce and industry of nations, and their influence upon the minds of those by whose skill, mechanical, artistic, and scientific, the works exhibited are to be produced. In the Exposition of 1849, France missed the opportunity of first setting the example of an international comparison or competition which could not have failed to have largely influenced the present position of its numerous industries,—special and general. Proposed by an enlightened policy, it was rejected by a short-sighted exclusiveness, the error of which was afterwards but too obvious, since from the Exhibition of All Nations of 1851 the most important results are now acknowledged to have flowed. Thus to compensate in some degree for the exclusiveness of 1849 in the matter of industry, France is now thrown open to a world’s competition in the dearly cherished question of Art in its highest manifestations, and adds to the Palace of Industry a Palace of the Fine Arts, open alike to all comers. The efforts of the painter and the sculptor, as evidences of progress in the higher departments of human pursuits, promotion of intellectual instruction and pleasure, are on this occasion so much the more broadly associated with the industrial utilities of life, and the chain of human efforts in the direction of creative power, becomes so much the more completely illustrated. After the example set so worthily by England in 1851, it would have been as contrary to the genius of the French people as it would have been inimical to the best interests of France, to have continued the exclusive system which had characterised former expo¬ sitions. With so little to fear in the way of competition in all those specialities to which the industrial energies of her mauufacturers and citizens had been so long directed, it must have been evident that by bringing examples of those products of human skill more especially adapted to the immediate necessities of mankind ; but which in many instances, if not absolutely neglected by the French, have received so little attention that the manufacture still remains in a very primitive condition ; and placing these in a prominent manner before the people, immense service must result to the commerce, if not to the manufactures of France. For it is unreasonable to suppose that with so true a perception of the fitness of things as usually characterises the French people, that they could fail to see the value either of largely improving their own methods of production in these every-day utilities, or at once see that it would be for their interest that such economic arrange¬ ments should be made in their future supply from those countries best able to produce them, as should ensure their extended use for the promotion of social comfort and industrial well-being of even the humblest classes. Nor would the views of the statesman or the political economist end here, since each would inevitably perceive that the benefit would be a double one to France, inasmuch as in all those things which her natural resources enable her to produce, (and they are numerous enough to render the result a matter of certainty,) she would command an extended and well-secured market in other countries, instead of the limited and precarious one which ever follows hostile or uureciprocative tariffs. Naturally and industrially France has much to offer in the broad markets of Europe, whilst commercially she has much to gain in opening her own. In an artistic and scientific sense this has been long acknowledged, and it required but the extended hand of a wiser and truer policy, the first and most unequivocal symptom of which is the Universal Exposition of 1855, to open, to an almost incalculable extent, a field for her commerce, at once worthy of her reputation, her position, and her influence among European nations. Since 1853, when the invitation to the industrial congress was issued, England, the ancient rival of Fi’ance in arms, in manu¬ factures, and more recently even in arts, has become a firm and powerful ally. The old and well defined national pride of two powerful states has been converted from an individual and antagonistic, into a dual and reciprocal direction in arms, whilst the glory of the one has become the pride and the boast of the other. In the peaceful arts, however, hostile tariffs still separate the two peoples. Restrictive and prohibitive duties, originally I THE PARIS EXHIBITION intended to cramp and cripple the industrial energies of each other when they were sworn foes, still ride triumphant over the common sense which has at last shown them that two peoples so closely placed by nature, should be one in interests, in pursuits, in position, and in power for good. Looking steadily then at this state of things, is it too much to hope that one of the greatest and most extensively useful results of the Universal Exhibition will be the gradual relaxation of the absurd commercial restrictions existing between France and England 1 Is it possible that the governments and peoples of both countries can any longer conceal from themselves that their greatest security for the continuation of the relations at present existing between them,—the theme of so much congratulation, the basis of so much hope for the future,— will be found in the extension of that social compact which arises most distinctly and is continued most surely out of that industrial and commercial intercourse which has ever been the most certain harbinger of peace between nations, inasmuch as by them every¬ day interests become identical. Men do not care to be placed in political and national antagonism to those with whom they have been in the habit of meeting as friends upon change or in the market. Two nations actively engaged in industrial and com¬ mercial pursuits, exchanging products, making bargains, and studying each other’s wants as customers, are not likely to be easily terrified into a course which would involve the shooting of each other. Both would consider the bargain a bad one, and agree that the time occupied in an interchange of bullets and cannon-balls, aud the expenditure of gunpowder, might be better employed in the exchange of more agreeable commodities, and in an investment resulting in a more profitable return than smoke, wounds and bloodshed. That peoples knowing little of each other and perhaps caring less, may go to war, is to be expected : but to render misunderstandings as improbable as may be, unrestricted intercourse, and an identity of interests will now be the aim of wise governments. Enlightened peoples will at all times embrace any opportunity which may be afforded them for the cultivation of those higher amenities of social and intellectual life which bring their refining influences to bear upon nations as upon individuals, and thus render impossible those ruder acts which lead to an antagonism, too often resulting in open contest and fierce retaliation. It will be then at once a pleasant and a profitable task to examine as carefully as our time and space will permit, into the relative position of the industrial products of the nations brought together in the Universal Exposition of 1855, more especially in those departments of human skill, in which Art and Science unite with handicraft for the pi'oduction of articles of manufacture. In this examination, the main object will be to indicate past progress and present position as an earnest of the future ; to illustrate the value of sound principles when intelligently and faithfully applied ; and, though by no means so agreeable a duty, to point out in what respect a systematic or ignorant defiance of those principles, in¬ volves a violation of the laws of common sense as applied to the arts, and result in rampant absurdities, and costly failures. In this age of ratiocinative power, when people are not disposed to take anything upon mere tradition or authority, he who attempts to teach others must not content himself with mere dictation. The vague ipse dixit of the merely theoretic artist or man of science is too frequently only to be paralleled in absurdity by the “ can't be done ” of the stereotyped manufacturer ; aud certainly the tradi¬ tionary modes of the latter are quite as likely to be true, as the oracular platitudes of the former, especially as they have one advantage at least, which is, that they can be worked, however clumsy and unsatisfactory the result may be. Hence your ultra- practical man embeds himself and his opinions in the wise saw,— “ an ounce of practice is worth a ton of theory ; ” and with this verbal bludgeon he is prepared to meet all comers, and to drive off all artistic and scientific trespassers, for such he considers them to be, upon his industrial domain. There can be no doubt that much of this antagonism arises from an utter neglect on the part of those who seek, and very earnestly too, to guide the manufacturer to more correct principles of action alike in design as in modes of fabrication, of the peculiar position in which he stands in relation to the markets it is his pro¬ vince to supply. Nothing offends a man more than to tell him that you understand his business better than he understands it himself. Yet this is the course which is too often pursued. On the contrary, if a principle is suggested, and its general truth enforced by some very palpable illustration, the difficulty of its immediate and absolute adoption in practice acknowledged, but intelligent modifications of current methods suggested as arising therefrom, we think it is not too much to affirm, that nine out of ten manufacturers who now regard all propositions emanating from an artistic or scientific source, much as a country bumpkin in a metropolitan mob regards the ominous cry of “ Take care of your pockets, ’ would be led to consider in what respect they could improve the character of their productions, in a degree at least, without endangering their position in the market, by, as they be¬ lieve, shooting over the heads of their customers. “ It won’t sell,” is a potent argument, if true, to which “ It may sell,” is but an in¬ different reply. “ It will sell,” being a sheer impertinence on the part of those who cannot possibly know much about the matter, commercially at least, and, when once in the market, it is the com¬ mercial question which has to be settled. Bearing in mind these points in the question before us, it is to be hoped that, without presuming too much upon the value of abstract artistic or scientific principles as applied to manufacture on the one hand, or yielding to mere conventional notions, hap-hazard traditions, or ignorant prejudices on the other, the present great occasion may be so im¬ proved by a quiet and earnest consideration of the materials brought together in the Industrial Congress of the Universal Exposition of 1855, as to enable us to deduce therefrom such in¬ struction, encouragement, or warning, as may be useful to all parties engaged in the various industries represented, more espe¬ cially in those to which Art administers as an embellishment, but in which it too often manifests itself as an excrescence. In examining in detail the various departments of Art-manufac¬ ture so abundantly illustrated in the Palais de l’Industrie and its Annexes, it is not intended that the official classification shall be followed, since to us it appears a series of elaborate contradictions ; so far at least as any thoroughly useful purpose is concerned. In one particular it certainly has its advantages, which consists in its peculiar adaptability for catching any stray industry or portion thereof, at some point or other of its grand circuit of human em¬ ployments or natural products. The difficulty, however, is to detect the precise point to which the missing industry or product has gravitated, when its absence from its supposed proper j^osition has been discovered. On this question of classification there is quite as little on which to congratulate the directors, professors, &c., of the Conservatoire des Arts et Metiers, as there was on the early administration of the arrangements of the building, and the admission of goods; and it is scarcely possible to conceive a more decided illustration of the possible presence of great scientific acquirements, with the utter absence of everything like practical administrative ability and tact. The classification adopted on paper has resulted in a most glorious defiance of almost everything like classification in the actual arrangements. Not content with a single intelligible principle, its authors adopted two. In one, objects are classified according to use, in the other according to the nature of the mate¬ rial, or mode of manufacture. Thus paper is classed with printing in its use, and with chemicals in its manufacture, where it forms a section of a class, side by side with leather, soap, candles, oils, and eau de Cologne. Money and medals, too, which people of ordinary capacity usually consider works of Art, are classed with products in metallurgy. Now, however scientifically true this mode may be, the practical result is a considerable amount of confusion, and a wide-spread separation of analogous industries, which, when grouped according to a less refined but really more truthful system, are calculated to convey a much larger amount of instruction and more definite ideas of the relative position of each distinct department. Having passed through the ordeal resulting from this classifica¬ tion sans arrangement, we shall present the results in such groups as we conceive will be best calculated to convey to those interested in special industries a distinct idea of the extent to which they are represented in the Exposition, and, without any affectation of pre¬ cision, seek to record the broader and more intelligible, and, it is hoped, the more useful portions of each branch of Art-manufacture. Nor will special efforts as illustrating the progress of civilisation and refinement be neglected, although they may not come precisely within the category thus laid down. For we hold that all things which conduce to the development of human ingenuity and skill, and which tend to lift man from the level of “ the beast which perisheth,” is worthy of a record side by side with those greater triumphs of Art and Science which have resulted in the progress of mankind through the earlier phases of the rude industries, on which, practically, all later refinements are based. The exceedingly useful and valuable expositions of the products of the British colonies in their relation to the established industries of Europe, come more especially under this head, since it is not so much in what respect their manufactured productions compete, or bear comparison with those of the mother country, or the states of Europe, as to how far their natural products, for the first time fairly illustrated, are calculated to aid in the further development of those manufactures to which the new material aids thus displayed can be best applied. It perhaps might be thought that an analysis of the Exposition under the head of each nation would be a more satisfactory method of comparing results than the consideration of the question by the process of technical groupings. As a summary it is proposed i to consider how far nationalities are adequately represented on i this occasion, in order to a complete view of the whole ; but we II OF INDUSTRIAL ART. attach more importance to the full illustration of each department of human industry in its most perfect form, than to how far each contributor, in a national sense, has followed the routine of classification, whether its products are such as to do it credit or not. When a country, as we regret to say is the case with Great Britain, has neglected to do justice to its position by omitting the adequate exposition of industries in which it stands specially pre-eminent, or, as in the case of the United States of America, scarcely illustrated its manufacturing position at all, it becomes necessary to point out the results of the omission, and as far as possible to trace the cause of such neglect to its proper source. Having thus defiued the purpose of this essay, and indicated its method, the claims of each speciality may be discussed in succession, its teachings and warnings, its triumphs and failures being made subservient to our purpose whether as manufacturers, as artists, as students, or as amateurs of the beautiful and the true, when applied to the embellishment of articles of every-day use. Of those more exceptional works which, without coming precisely within the category of pictorial or sculptural art, are yet so thoroughly imbued with its cesthetics as to render it almost impossible to draw the line at which Industrial Art ends and Fine Art par excellence begins, there will, of necessity, be much to say from time to time ; we shall now, however, proceed to the consideration of an eminently industrial group. TEXTILE FABRICS. The varied industries comprised under this head find their most perfect exposition in the very remarkable and painstaking display of the French manufacturers, and it is only after a careful examination of the whole that the almost paramount importance of the woven manufactures of France to its position as a commercial nation becomes apparent. For whether we consider the unrivalled and recherche collection of Lyons silks, the printed muslins of Mulhouse, the machine laces and harness fabrics and linens of St. Quentin, the hand-lace of Valenciennes, Cambrai, andAlengon, the woollen fabrics and mixed goods of Sedan, Elbeuf, Louviers, Roubaix, Turcoing, Lille, Abbeville, and Nancy, or the coarser but useful calico prints of Rouen, it is at once evident that each district has felt the importance of the international exposition in which it was called to assist, and care has been taken that none of those serious gaps which occurred in British industries in 1851, should mar the ensemble of the national representation of French textile products. The neglect of Manchester in organising a proper display of the position of English cotton manufacture on that occasion is only now even more disgracefully apparent, since the praiseworthy effort to give a complete illustration of the industry of Lancashire in the Universal Exposition of 1855, proves how thoroughly the duty entailed upon Manchester in 1851 was neglected. For, except in the department of printed fabrics, judgment was permitted to go by default, and the productions of an important section of British manufactures permitted to be represented by an exposition scarcely equal to that of a second-rate draper’s shop. Austria, Prussia, Switzerland, Spain, Portugal, and Tuscany, have each contributed examples of their more special textile fabrics, whilst those of Great Britain and Ireland are fairly represented, except in the important departments of woollen cloths and linen damask. In the former, the Yorkshire manufacturers have neglected to do justice to themselves, and in the latter, the Irish portion of the display is altogether unworthy of the spirit and energy of the men of Belfast, since it conveys no adequate idea of the productions of the north of Ireland. As a whole the textile industries of Europe may be said to be well-represented, especially in the more ornate departments, and we have purposely avoided naming the many triumphs of skill contributed from the Imperial manufactory of the Gobelins, in which, as usual, the tapestry loom has rivalled the products of the paintei’’s easel. These works are so exceptional, as to really place them out of the ordinary category of economic or artistic industries to which it is more especially our purpose to direct attention, and from which alone the manufacturer is most likely to draw those practical hints calculated to assist in the future improvement of his own speciality. Under the head of each leading branch of textile manufactures, the most notable features of the various contributions must now be indicated. SILK. The silk trade may be said to be indigenous to France, and its progressive development having been for so long a period a special object with each successive government, the position it now holds, as illustrated so fully in the manufactures of Lyons, would appear to be a matter of course. Yet no one can fail to see, even in the most cursory examination of the varied contributions, comprising as they do every kind of silk fabric, from the richest and heaviest brocade, to the lightest and almost gossamer-like texture a loom is capable of putting together, how much of intelligent thought and entire devotion, alike artistic and mechani¬ cal, has been bestowed upon the works exposed. To the initiated, the character of some of these productions approaches the mar¬ vellous in its results ; inasmuch as taking into consideration the construction of the machinery employed, the arbitrary character of the tints of colour introduced, the complication of working arising out of the number of shuttles essential to the throwing in of these tints, the incessant call upon almost every faculty of the weaver as his work progresses, it is a difficult task to realise the modus operandi, even in theory. Without defending or altogether approving of the extreme imitation of the growth of flowers and plants, which forms the leading feature in the designs of the best works, especially in brocades, it is quite clear that for delicacy of tint and clearness of tone on the one hand, and for extreme richness, boldness of effect, and thorough artistic precision on the other, nothing could surpass a very large portion of the higher class of silks contributed from the looms of Lyons. As a lesson in colour alone, the artist as well as the manufacturer cannot fail to feel their force and beauty; and if the method by which the harmonious contrasts so successfully produced is carefully ana¬ lysed, it will be found to resolve itself into the consideration, and conscientious and intelligent application, of certain simple but fixed principles carefully ascertained and noted, the results alone from time to time being the test of their truth. The Lyonese manu¬ facturer is always more or less of an artist. In fact the most suc¬ cessful have been at the commencement of their career designers for the houses in which they have afterwards become partners: their employers finding this to be the only means of securing their exclusive devotion to the interest of one firm. Thoroughly acquainted with the nature of the material which constitutes the vehicle of their artistic skill, it is surprising how readily the very qualities which might otherwise render it difficult to deal with, and in less intelli¬ gent hands do so render it, is made subservient to the most remark¬ able and pleasing results. Thus silk is a shining body which readily reflects light, and is influenced in a more than ordinary degree by the colours of objects immediately near it. Taking this simple fact, it must be evident, that the tints or colours brought together in one piece of goods must largely influence each other; not merely in what may be called dead contrasts, or complements, but in the absolute reflection of masses of colour, and of even single threads of colour, in each other. Thus a blue thread laid down by the side of a yellow one would inevitably produce the result, by reflection, of making a green, when they came in contact with each other. This would be equally the case in masses of blue and yellow, when displayed in folds of drapery. Now the evident recognition of this simple fact, and the intelligent modes of action taken thereon, enables the Lyonese designer, weaver, and manu¬ facturer, to harmonise tones, and produce results of a character which bewilders the timid experimentalist whose philosophy of colour begins and ends with question of contrast or harmony, since the former take surface into consideration as well as colour, and treat the brilliant reflections of silk so as to make it a means to a given end,—that of obtaining the greatest possible effect with the most limited and economic means. We are thoroughly con¬ vinced that it is by this perfect mastery over the physical charac¬ teristics of the material, and its incessant and almost exclusive study in every phase, that the French silk manufacturers so thoroughly surpass those of every other country, as a whole, in the results they achieve, and it is for this reason that the unconscious homage of attempting mechanically to follow the effects produced, is paid to them by our own manufacturers, without the latter appear¬ ing to have any suspicion that there must be some definite cause for the almost invariable success which attends the efforts of French designers and weavers in silk. But if suspected, it is often “ pooh- poohed ” or denied. Let any one prepared fairly to investigate this matter, examine the best examples of the more highly-coloured brocades in the Lyons department of the Universal Exposition, and ask himself how it is that tints which in other materials would look crude and unsatisfactory when put together, are made in this bright and almost iridescent material to produce the most harmo¬ nious results ; and go thence to the English silk department, aud there look at the combination of tints which in a less brilliant material would be perfectly satisfactory, but in silk look tame and flat, and we feel perfectly satisfied that he will ask “ the reason why ?” A thoroughly intelligent examination of the magnificent specimens of various kinds of silk goods exhibited in the Lyons department by Grand, fibres (7025, Empire Frangais *), Mathevon & Bouvard (7056, Empire Frangais), Godemar, Meyneer, & Cie. (7021, Empire Frangais), Tholozan & Cie. (7132, Empire Frangais,) Croizat & Cie. (6975, Empire Frangais), Vanel (7138, Empire Fran¬ gais,) Bouvard & Langon (6944, Empire Frangais), Furnion, pere et fils alne (7007, Empire Frangais)—the last-named being a pecu¬ liar display,—will fully answer the question. It may happen, how¬ ever, that a foregone conclusion has been arrived at, and that, instead of examining “ why ” the French succeed so well in this * The number is given in this form to facilitate reference to the official catalogue of the Imperial commission. Ill THE PARIS matter, the opinion will be enunciated that “ these people have a natural faculty or trick in doing this kind of thing,” and therefore that it is hopeless to compete with them in so subtle a matter. It would in this case be our turn to “ pooh-pooh,” and affirm that the whole trick lies in an intelligible mode of applying well-defined and well-understood laws of harmony and contrast as specially applied to the characteristics of the material used, and not to any peculiar endowment in the application of the “ rule of thumb.” We repeat, the French artist-manufacturer, for such he is, has not treated the lustrous silk as he would have treated woollen, worsted, or cotton, or a combination of these materials, but has really taken into account the physical characteristics of his mate¬ rial, and acted accordingly. Let any one of the more brilliant examples of colour above quoted be produced in any other mate¬ rial than silk, the tints being dyed with the greatest nicety, and it would be at once seen that a great portion of the harmony was lost. As regards brilliancy, of course that amount which depended upon the material could not be expected to be retained ; but then it should ever be remembered that this characteristic is obtainable in the dead tones of wool and cotton when the colours are properly arranged in accordance with the nature of the material. The silk trade of England is, on the whole, very fairly represented, and does credit to the national spirit of the manufacturers, who could have so easily retreated behind the cui bono argument, or rather plea, with which those who ought to have represented other industries have contented themselves, since it was not to be ex¬ pected that more than a respectable appearance would be made, when compared with the overpowering character of the Lyonese contributions. Spitalfields, Manchester, and Macclesfield are all represented. The most successful exhibits are Spitalfields velvets and Manchester dress silks, the latter being generally in excellent taste. We doubt if some of the London houses are quite up to their usual standard. The Macclesfield productions retain their old reputation of being more gay than tasteful in the colouring, and as for any amount of drawing brought to bear upon this industry, it is of the usual pattern-making type, very rigid, and maiwellously illustrative of the great fact, that every curve has an angle for its base. RIBBONS. In these articles the St. Etienne productions astonished us not a little. The outrageous character of the generality of the designs, and the utter vulgarity of the gaudy, blotchy colouring, gay as it is considered a ribbon ought to be. The best lesson our manu¬ facturers can derive from them, is to avoid them as a species of artistic pestilence. Swiss chfllets, with frightful essays at trees and skies, libellous attempts at peasants and opera-dancers, to say nothing of odd-looking Napoleons, Eug6nies, and Victorias, make up a series of productions which prove to no inconsiderable extent that the ribbon trade of France is an export one, and that those who carry it on study the strange whims of their foreign customers, and suit the ugliness of the decoration to the supposed savage tastes in dress of all persons who have not the happiness to be born on French soil. This is only another phase of the practice by which designs for printed goods are supplied in the Parisian ateliers to English manufacturers. To suit the Manchester market a fixed standard of clumsiness is set up, to which the designer works. He thus gets rid of useless refinement, which he knows his customer the manufacturer will not care to pay for, even if he appreciates it; but for the Scotch market it is usual to draw out the full power of the ugly stop, alike in form and colour, as experience has shown that the rejected of every other locality does not possess a sufficient amount of blotch and glare to satisfy the demands of the printer, or rather, in strict justice we ought to say, of his customer. These St. Etienne ribbons then can only be tolerated upon the principle of being suited to special markets, since upon no other can their strange colouring and ornamenta¬ tion (?) be accounted for. Other continental countries exhibit ribbons, but these do not require notice. This speciality has two representatives only in the English department, one of whom, Mr. James Hai-t of Coventry, illustrates in an admirable manner his manufacture of the cheaper kind of ribbons. Messrs. Cornell, Lyell, & Webster, of London, show a few admirable examples of the higher class, and certainly both collections, in point of taste, are far in advance of the St. Etienne gaieties. A ribbon is a trimming not a garment. It may be used as a bordering, a braiding, or in rosettes. In each ease its decoration and its colour should be such as will produce a perfect result in the make up : for this purpose spots, or lines of colour, geometric ornament, or flowers symmetrically grouped, constitute the true materials for its embellishment. How absurd then are the subjects above noted, as constituting the stock motifs of the St. Etienne productions ? The Coventry manufacturers, as a body appear to have shrunk from a comparison with the French and Swiss. But we doubt the EXHIBITION policy of such a course, even in reference to the English markets : for it is to be presumed that buyers from England and the United States of America will visit the Exposition and make their own comparisons as regards excellence and price, as a basis for future operations in trade. Before quitting the speciality of silk, it is only just that we should balance our strictures upon the absurd introduction of the human figure, in any form, upon ribbons, by calling attention to the magnificent example of portrait weaving exhibited by one of the Lyonese houses, quoted as examples of great superiority, — Mathevon & Bouvard (7056). This portrait, the head of Washington after Stuart, nearly life-size, is the most perfect specimen of this species of Art-manufacture yet produced : for notwithstanding the numerous admirable examples which have from time to time issued from the houses of Lyons, the example now quoted is decidedly the most artistic. The half tones, always more or less crude in other specimens, are here given in great perfection. This is effected by the great care and skill with which the “ tie ” is varied, and the fineness of the “ count.” The drawing is very accurate, and the treatment of the whole is broad and effective. Its technical excellence therefore renders it worthy of the careful examination of our manufacturers and artists, not so much for the purposes of imitation, as an evidence of how much can be effected by the Jacquard machine when in intelligent and skilful hands. Furnion, pere et fils ainl, (7007), whose peculiar display has been already named, also exhibit medallion portraits of the two Emperors Napoleon executed in velvet, with ornamental borders of fine execution. These are suggestive of a mode of treatment which might be adapted to certain kinds of furniture textiles, where expense was not a primary consideration. They are quoted, however, as in the case of the portrait of Washington, rather as proofs of the adaptability of the mechanical means employed in the production of artistic results, than as being commercially important. It may be desirable here to notice such improvements in the construction, or, rather, adaptation of the Jacquard machine as the Exposition brings before the public. Our mechanics and manufacturers must decide for themselves how far these are cal¬ culated to meet their requirements. They are to be found with the French machinery in the Annexe, and are exhibited by P. Delporte, of Boubaix (1582, Empire Framjais); Roux & Voinier, aine, of Paris (1601, Empire Fran§ais), who also exhibit a machine for pricking the paper used by embroiderers for transferring the pattern ; R. Rouze, of Lyons (1602, Empire Fran§ais), and two or three others to whom reference cannot be made by the number, as, like many important exhibits, the loose mode of action adopted by the administrators of the Exposition has left them unnamed in the catalogue. J. B. Acklin, of Paris (1575, Empire Frau 9 ais), and V illard & Gigodot, of Lyons (1608, Empire Francais), exhibit arrange¬ ments for substituting an endless band of perforated paper for the usual chain of cards used in the Jacquard machine. This has been attempted before, but has resulted in the rapid obliteration of the perforations, and consequently in the making of very defective work, and the final stoppage of the machine. How far these con¬ trivances may overcome this difficulty experience alone can show ; but such attempts are always worthy of consideration : for, how¬ ever impossible a proposed result may appear to the mind of one man, yet in that of another, aided by able hands and earnest devotioB, the “can’t be done” of yesterday is often the fact of to¬ day. To persons interested in the development of inventions as applied to artistic weaving in modern times, from the loom of Vaucanson to the new scheme of Bonelli, of Turin, for weaving by electricity, a series of nine models exhibited by J. Marin, of Lyons (1594, Empire Fran§ais), will be an attraction, and, as a matter of instruc¬ tion, exceedingly valuable. They commence with the draw-loom of 1606, and show the leading features of subsequent inventions for the execution of those fabrics of which the Lyonese display in the Universal Exposition is certainly a crowning triumph. We trust that these models will find their way to England, and that an opportunity for thus illustrating so important a department of mechanical science will not be lost sight of by those to whom have been confided the interests of our future progress in Science and Art as applied to industry. In the Austrian division of the machinery department of the Annexe, are exhibited Jacquard machines constructed entirely of wood for the sake of economy (?) and lightness. They are manu¬ factured by Guillebaud Schramm, of Vienna (388, Empire d’Afl- triche). The Great Exhibition of 1851 showed to what perfection the Austrians could work hard woods for industrial purposes, such as tools, &c., and these machines may possibly prove suggestive in the direction above named; but certainly for all the wear and tear to which such machines are subjected, steel and brass, though most costly at the outset, would certainly prove both lighter and more economical than any wood construction, however excellent it might be. IV OF INDUSTRIAL ART. LACE AND EMBROIDERY. France, Belgium, and Switzerland, are each thoroughly repre¬ sented in the speciality of lace, and the reputation of all three for artistic excellence is worthily sustained. The characteristics of English and Irish laces too are fairly and successfully illustrated, and the manufacturers of Nottingham have certainly entered the field boldly and challenged all competitors in machine lace, especially ou the important point of price. Artistically these Nottingham productions show an immense advance upon those displayed in the Great Exhibition of 1851. The designs generally are more purely textile, and bear evidence of an increasing intelligence in design, as also of an advanced perception of the fitness and adapta¬ bility of a certain class of natural forms, when wrought out upon a distinct geometric basis. It is, therefore, with no little satisfaction that we hail this recognition of the value of a recurrence to first principles, the results now produced being an earnest of future progress in the same direction. It is quite clear that English designers possessing a technical knowledge of the industries upon which their Art-knowledge is to be exercised, and resolved to think for themselves, need not look to the practice of their conti¬ nental competitors for modes of treatment; inasmuch as by starting from their own wants, or rather those of the consumer, they may, by earnestly woi’king out the well-understood conditions of the special manufacture upon which they are engaged, produce originality without rushing into the whims and vagaries to which the mere copyist is ever in danger of being led by the idiosyncracies of others whose wants may be totally different to those which it is his function to supply. Seeing then this healthy tendency in the lace designs of Nottingham, we are at a loss to understand what could have induced the perpetration of such an absurdity as the lace table-cover, on which the “Descent from the Cross” has been so hideously libelled, or the outrageous attempt at an illustration of the Anglo-French Alliance, in a series of wooden- looking figures. When will the people who waste their time, throw away their money, and misuse good machinery only to render themselves ridiculous, learn that the human figure is not a proper subject for imitation in a material like lace. Here we have a fabric, the chief characteristic of which is its lightness and semi-transparency, the use of which is chiefly to cover more solid fabrics, and the ornamentation of which can only be seen to advantage when placed between the eye of the spectator and some other object, or as in the case of lace curtains, between the eye and the light. Yet in spite of these facts, manufacturers pei'sist in the introduction of forms totally contradictory to the very nature of the material and the use of the fabric. The Swiss have been and still are open to the same charge of neglecting the common sense principles which ought to guide the lace manu¬ facturer in the selection of the forms with which to decorate his productions. In the Great Exhibition of 1851, the Chalet backed by mountains, with foreground and mid-distances of firs and rocks, was a favourite subject, and probably was then thought most suited to the English taste : the Swiss having a keen eye to the markets of Britain. In the present Exhibition this Chalet type is comparatively abandoned, probably because unsuited to French taste ; but it peeps out here and there; for one of the best contributors of Swiss lace curtains exhibits the interior of a hot-house of Crystal Palace-like design and dimensions, plants, fountains, and perspective included ; as also a hunting scene, horses, dogs, trees, and all the et-ceteras of the chase ! We have decried and shall continue to decry all such absurdities, however well executed; indeed the better they are executed, the more offensive they become. Our own manu¬ facturers will, we are sure, now that they have fairly commenced to work from a sound basis, repudiate these puerilities, and above all things, we trust that no Englishman or English woman, having the least pretension to a taste for Art, will buy such nonsense. The Glasgow harness curtains show a healthy re-action on this point, and the designs of those exhibited are far more legitimately textile than usual. In short, the Glasgow display in this specialite is highly satisfactory, and may probably call the attention of French designers to the fact that ugliness and clumsi¬ ness do not always constitute the merits of a design as suited to the Scotch market. The machine laces of i St. Quentin, especially in curtains, certainly rival,those of Nottingham in excellence; but as no prices are given, it is impossible to say how far the two may compete in the same materials, and of the commercial results likely to follow from their being thus, as it were, brought “ face to face.” It is quite clear, however, that the curtains exhibited by Messrs. Heymann and Alexander of Nottingham are remarkable for their excellence and lowness of price. Unlike the French examples, which are placed in glass cases out of reach, and consequently not open to minute examination, these articles are displayed in a very simple, effective, and, to our mind, tasteful, because practical, manner: being suspended from the girders, and looped to the columns which support the roof of the avenue running in front of the gallery of the English department in the Palais de l’lndustrie. They are thus seen in much the same position as when in actual use, whilst they challenge attention and close examination. The price is affixed to each pair of curtains, and its lowness—fifteen francs per pair being that of the majority—must greatly astonish our continental friends. No possible exception can be takeu, either to the character of the manufacture, or the general ex¬ cellence and simplicity of design in these articles, and their display is an act of justice to an important industry, and a commercial triumph for Nottingham. The Velvet and Simla lace, for the production of which the patentees, Messrs. Ball, Dunnicliffe & Co., of Nottingham, received the only Council medal awarded for lace in 1851, is illustrated in all its varied uses as applied to the orna¬ mentation of dresses, shawls, &c. ; and, though no longer a novelty in England, tends to sustain the reputation of the manufacturers. In machine-made lace and bobbin-net the manufacturers of Calais, Cambray, Lille, and Lyons, together with St. Quentin, as already mentioned, show that whilst they still continue to worthily follow the mechanical methods of Nottingham, they do not fail to infuse originality and thought into their designs, and that in machine lace there is a tendency to approach more and more to the excellence which characterises the hand-made fabric : whilst not unfrequently novelties are attempted which, though not always satisfactory in their results as regards purity of taste, yet are evidences of a strong vitality seeking to be freed from the absolute trammels of old conventional types. In embroideries and tambour-work on cambric and muslin, the French productions are worthy of special study by our Scotch and Irish manufacturers. In Fabriques de Tarare, the curtains, &c., exhibited by Fonteret, pere et fils (5759, Empire Frau^ais), and Piauns, neveu (5928, Empire Fran§ais), both of Tarare, the beauty of the designs are only equalled by the excellence and perfection with which they are rendered in tambour-work. This brings us to the consideration of the hand-made laces of the Exposition, upon which enough could be said in detail to occupy a large portion of the space at our disposal. The results, however, can after all be only realised in a thorough examination by the manufacturer and merchant interested in this special industry. The blonde laces of Caen and Bayeux, displayed in berthes, scarfs, shawls, aud robes, do honour to the skill of the women of the department of Calvados, and the artistic taste of its manufacturers. The white thread laces of Lille, the recherche productions of Chantilly, the comparatively cheap hand-made laces of Arras, and the costly point d’Alenin, are all suggestive to the intelligent observer, and, it must be confessed, convey lessons in what to avoid, as well as hints what to imitate, and possibly even improve upon. Amongst the most noteworthy of the individual exhibits of French lace, as also most likely to repay a careful examination, we may instance the mantles, collars, and flounces of M. Balme of Puy (Haute Loire), (7745, Empire Fran 9 ais) ; Seguin, of Paris (7782, Empire Frangais), one specimen, a coavre-pied, being of extraordinary beauty of design and execution ; the specimens of Loiseau of Paris (7769, Empire Fran 9 ais), Delambre & Co., of Paris (7752, Empire Frangais), Geffrier, Walmez, and Delisle, freres, of Paris (7759, Empire Frangais), and Pagny, atni, of Paris (7774, Empire Frangais). All are more or less remarkable for superiority of design, execution, and for an intelligent adaptation of means to a given end. As a whole the most complete illustration of the perfection to which the lace manufacture of France has attained, is to be found in the display of M. Lefebure, to whom the place d’honneur in this specialite has been given in the Palais de lTudustrie. The exam¬ ples of point d’Aleu 9 on in robes, handkerchiefs, &c., as also of the black laces of Bayeux are most exquisite in design and execution. One shawl is certainly the most perfect thing of the kiud in the Exposition. It is so thoroughly and essentially lace as to leave nothing further to be desired. The distribution of the forms are so equal; the variation in the lines aud arrangement so artistic as to strike any one who pays the least attention to the requirements of this particular manufacture. Here we see none of those blotchy quantities sprawling over indefinite surfaces, and threatening to grow too large even for the liberty of space thus allowed them, whilst their ponderous forms, if considered as an element of weight, would sink any extent of the coarsest manufacture ever con¬ structed of warp and woof. On the contrary, every point has been well studied, carefully adapted and laid down to the precise requirements of the article decorated ; and whilst the ensemble is perfect, the details, as a matter of course, have been carefully subordinated thereto. Probably the perfection of a certain class of lace was never more fully illustrated than in the comparatively small display of Spain. There are some three or four exhibitors of blonde veils, and “ Valenciennes ” lace mantillas of great beauty and purity of design, who have so carefully selected their specimens and displayed them THE PARIS EXHIBITION in so simple and unostentatious a manner as to convey a pleasing impression of completeness in each individual article exhibited, as well as suggest the idea that having fairly settled the principle upon which Spanish lace ought to be produced, no temptation could induce them to speculate in mere novelties, which might result in incongruity or something less beautiful and complete than that which they had fairly arrived at, and which tlu.v had the good sense, otherwise taste, to be satisfied with ; —an example which their competitors of other countries would do well to follow, whenever ! their customers happen to have arrived at that point of intelli¬ gence in matters of decoration, that they really know what they want ! As might be expected, the Belgians, who are thoroughly alive to the value of periodical expositions of industry, have taken care that so important an industry as that of lace should be well represented ; therefore the reputation of the manufacturers of Brussels, Ypres, Malines, Antwerp, Bruges, Courtrai, Menin, Ghent, and Alost, does not suffer in the comparison they challenge in the Universal Exposition. Dukayon, Brunfaut, & Cie., of Brussels and Ypres (575 Royaume de Belgique), and Vanderkelen—Bresson, of Brus¬ sels (594, Royaume de Belgique), both of whom so worthily represented the lace industry of Belgium in 1851, again sustain, in company with others, perhaps equally worthy, the ancient reputa¬ tion of Flanders for perfection of manufacture in this speciality. Brussels plait, and point lace, Valenciennes, both broad and nar¬ row laces, are illustrated in all their varied applications and uses. On the whole, however, we do not recognise any special progress since 1851. Perhaps, however, considering the perfection to which this manufacture has been brought, the result of the experience and attention of many generations of manufacturers and workers, any visible movement in so short a period was not to be expected. Certainly there is no falling off, and this is saying much ; since it too frequently occurs that a certain standard of perfection having been attained to, the past reputation is relied upon for sustaining a manufacture or a firm under the deteriorations which frequently arise from the apathy of success, the whims and caprices of over¬ weening conceit, or a self-satisfied application of the principle of laissez faire. The Swiss productions in curtains have been already alluded to, so far as regards those exceptions in the matter of design to which it seemed desirable to direct attention as a warning, in con¬ nection with kindred mistakes in our own manufacturers. Taken as a whole, Switzerland is well represented, not only as regards the extent, but in the excellence of those productions upon which so much of the comfort and happiness of so many of its female popu¬ lation depends. The character of the designs generally are cer¬ tainly improved since 1851, for, as before stated, those, to the character of which we have taken as exceptions, not being suited to the taste of the French, have been kept back. Of the appropriate¬ ness of much of the design here wrought out, little can be said in objection, and when the extraordinary beauty of the handicraft part is considered, there is certainly much to interest and instruct. The most striking novelty in the lace manufacture, is exhibited in the Swiss department, by Staheli Wild, of St. Gall (265 Con- f6d6ration Suisse) ; this consists of two specimens of point-lace (relief) produced by a newly-invented method, of which, however, no particulars are given. The results are certainly very beautiful. Ihe clear, distinct, and thoroughly firm character of the work, as seen under the glass which protects it, is the perfection of lace manufacture ; and no doubt when the peculiar method by which it is produced has been carefully investigated by the jury charged to attend to this industry, this perfection will be duly appreciated, whatever may be thought of the process. The specimens are small, being ladies’ collars, and it is quite possible that the mode of production will confine the manufacture to this class of articles. As no price is given, the economical value of the invention cannot be judged of; the result, however, is worthy of the attention of our manufacturers for its beauty and perfection. British hand-made laces are well represented, as far as regards excellence, the exhibits being more select than numei’ous. In this lespect sound judgment has been displayed. Honiton lace appears to be best illustrated by the contributions of Messrs. Copistake, Moore, & Crampton; but others, Mr. Treadwin, Mr. Blackborne, and Mrs. Clarke for instance, sustain the high reputation of this beautiful fabric. Irish lace3 are shown to great advantage by Messrs. Forrest, of Dublin, as also by H. D. Goblet, of London, and it is satisfactory to note a steady improvement in the character of the designs, espe¬ cially in the guipure. The Great Exhibition of 1851 was of im¬ mense advantage to this department of Irish industry. Limerick aces, previously known rather by name than in fact, were there brought before the public in so unmistakable a form as to at once prove their value and excellence, and the result has been a most satisfactory extension of the lace trade of Ireland. It cannot be doubted that the present Exhibition will further assist in a direc¬ tion so essential to the future interests and prosperity of a branch industry, the social influence of which now is beginning to be felt in so many directions in that unfortunate country. It is for this reason that we regret the very meagre and unsatisfactory display of the sewed muslins of the north of Ireland. Belfast has not displayed its usual energy and good sense in allowing so important a branch of its trade to stand before Europe in so puny and unin¬ teresting a form as we find it here represented, or rather we should say mfs-represented. In gold, silver, and coloured embroideries, the extent of the French exposition is overwhelming. This may be accounted for by the fact that this industry is largely carried on in Paris, and each house employing the skill of the Parisian brodeur, rushes to the Palais de l’lndustrie with the results of its enterprise. As might be expected in a people where the love of decoration has become a passion, the concentration of silk, gold, and silver thread, beads, pearl, and paste diamonds, is often overwhelming : sometimes abso¬ lutely tasteless and absurd. If it were worth while, and space permitted, a few grave lessons might be given on the folly and waste displayed in some of these productions. Others again show an exquisite perception of colour and appropriateness in the com¬ bination of materials, which tend further to illustrate the prin¬ ciples sought to be laid down in our remarks upon the exquisite harmony of the Lyonese silks. Ecclesiastical embroideries are, as a matter of course, the most abundant, from the extent to which costly robes are used in the services of the Church of Rome. In this department Belgium takes the lead, as it did in 1851 ; and the embroidered robes exhi¬ bited by Van Halle, of Brussels (554, Royaume de Belgique), placed in a prominent position in the central portion of the Palais, are an evidence of the extent to which artistic combinations of the loom and needle can be carried. These robes are displayed in great profusion, the tour de force of the whole being a figure of Our Lord, habited in a manner utterly contradictory to what we should conceive to be even Roman Catholic notions of Him “ who had not where to lay His head.” To a Protestant there is something 1 offensive in habiting the Saviour, who repudiated earthly power, pomp, and wealth, in the robes of worldly ecclesiastical authority,— the vestments of any mundane church. This painful and tasteless anachronism detracts materially from the merits of M. Van Halle’s exhibit ; and however much we may desire to recognise the skill, ability, and evident devotion to his speciality manifested by the exhibitor, we cannot but think that pride in his church has caused him seriously to overlook the true character of its Master, and would urge this fact as a lesson to our own manufac¬ turers engaged in the production of ecclesiastical ornaments ; since an unwise zeal may otherwise render objectionable and even ridiculous, that which would otherwise be looked upon with respect, if not with sympathy. SHAWLS AND MIXED FABRICS. The usual excellence in their usual styles are to be found in the French shawl department. Nothing absolutely new in design, or particularly worthy of notice, as conveying positive instruction, presented itself to us. Negatively our shawl manufacturers and designers may learn much, since they cannot fail but see much to avoid. Here are Chinese temples to decorate the back of a lady ! —the Emperor and Empress on a balcony, under palm-trees of portentous size and marvellous proportions ! One extraordinary production, a perfect marvel in weaving, ought to be examined by every person engaged in a kindred manufacture. It has been for years a favourite theory with us, that anything in the way of pic¬ torial effect may be imitated in the loom, provided the cost of production is no object. Here, then, is a step towards the proof of this theory. Damiron & Cie., of Lyons, (6977, Empire Frangais,) exhibit a shawl, the ornamentation of which consists of a series of pictures interspersed with arrangements of flowers ; the ensemble produced being richly harmonious in colour, of which these pictures and flowers are simply the vehicle, since to satisfy the mind the details to produce which so much skill has been expended must be forgotten. Cui bono ? It is simply illustrative of means and talent thrown away, and its use is a warning to others “ not to do likewise.” The shawls of other countries do not require special notice here. They are generally sufficiently Indian in their type to meet the conventional notions in that particular article of a lady’s dress ; but which we may expect to see changed when the stove¬ pipe hat has had its day with the gentlemen, and follows the happy course now being pursued in ladies’ bonnets, and thus gradually vanishing into caps. In the mixed fabrics in ordinary demand, such as ladies’ robes and certain classes of furniture goods, the French have certainly bene¬ fited largely by their experience gained in the Great Exhibition of 1851, in the important matter of “ finish : ” since, it is agreed on all hands, by those best able to judge, that the mixed fabrics and worsted stuffs are very much superior to anything exhibited by them on that occasion. Few things impressed the manufacturers VI OF INDUSTRIAL ART. of France, engaged in this department of industry, more than the admirable character of the dye and finish of the cheaper kinds of Bradford goods in 1851, and nearly all their inquiries were directed towards this new point as being of essential importance to their own trade, inasmuch as appearance, in garment fabrics especially, forms an item of immense consequence in a commercial point of view. The result of this attention is evident in the present Exposition, and it is generally admitted that the lesson so well studied in London four years ago, has not been without its uses. Let our own manufacturers take the hint, and as intelligently direct their attention to special points of excellence, when dis¬ played in the productions of other nations, and not be content with an unwilling acknowledgment of superiority, and some hope¬ lessly je ne sais quoi-Yike conclusion, but be determined to “ know the reason why.” The Irish Poplins of Messrs. Atkinson, Messrs. Pirn Brothers, and Messrs. Fry and Go., of Dublin, constitute, on the whole, a fair representation of this peculiar manufacture, and certainly we saw nothing of a similar character which could be said to approach them in excellence and general appearance. It is a matter of con¬ gratulation that in spite of the many novelties, as regards adapta¬ tion of material, which every year, almost every season, may be said to bring forth, that the genuine character of the Dublin poplius and the good taste which usually characterises the best examples enable them still to maintain their position in public estimation ; and though fashion does from time to time allow of a certain degree of eclipse, yet it invariably happens that in due course the ladies return to the old love, which, like all really good and beautiful things, is always new. Fashion exercises an immense power, no doubt, as regards the ebb and flow of popular opinion, but fashion can never completely throw real excellence out of sight. The Venus de Medici, and the Apollo Belvidere, are always in vogue, even with the most capricious. The beauty of the one and the graceful power of the other assert themselves to the annihila¬ tion of all whims and caprices ; because they are based on un¬ changeable principles, realised with perfect skill in materials over which that skill had a complete mastery, since its peculiarities had been well studied and cared for. In this respect we have an example of the value of knowing how much of the desired effect really exists in the material in which our artistic and industrial skill is to be exercised, and making the most of that knowledge. WOOLLEN CLOTHS. Although the manufacture of Woollen Cloths does not come within the category of industries to which decorative art is applied, except in certain special instances of no great importance, yet, com¬ mercially, the proper representation of so useful a class of textile fabrics is of the greatest moment in an exhibition claiming to be of European extent. As might be expected, therefore, France, as the host on this occasion, has put forth its strength, and as already stated, the woollen manufactures of Sedan, Elbeuf, Louviers, Roubaix, Tourgoing, Lille, Abbeville, and Nancy, are all fully and completely represented. The dye, finish, and general make of the goods is, on the whole, superior to those exhibited by French manufacturers in 1851. Austria shows largely, and sustains its position in this manufacture ; and the same may be said of Prussia and Belgium. Saxony exhibits its best productions, and with success. England alone, of all the great producers of woollen fabrics, appears to have neglected its true interests. There are three exhibitors from the west of England, whilst the display of Yorkshire cloths undertaken by Leeds as the exponent of the important interests of the northern woollen district, is a disgrace to the industry it professes to represent. The persons who under¬ took the illustration of the woollen manufactures of the West Riding of Yorkshire, either did or did not understand the important interests committed to their charge. If they thought the work was not worth doing, and that the exposition of this special industry at Paris would be useless, as they are reported to have stated, why did they undertake the matter at all '] Why not honestly state that they saw no value in exhibiting ? Instead of this, the work was undertaken, and a paltry, slipshod pretence at an exhibition of Yorkshire woollen cloths is the result. The contrast between this sham exposition of English woollen cloths, and those already quoted, cannot fail to be injurious to the industrial and commercial interests of those most intimately concerned, since—and this cannot be too often repeated—this Exposition is an appeal to buyers in and for every market in the world, and those who are best represented are most likely to obtain the best customers. PRINTED GOODS. In a field so wide spread as that implied in the term 'printed fabrics , it would be impossible fairly to discuss the merits of a tithe of the excellent and useful articles of the various kinds exhibited. The art and science, for such it is, of printing and dyeing woven fabrics, has in this day arrived at much perfection, yet is still likely to be more and more improved and developed. Those processes and results which a few years ago would have created the greatest astonishment, are now looked upon as little more than a matter of course ; the natural growth, in fact, arising out of the point to which science has brought art. Viewed from a severely artistic point of view, it may be questionable whether the immense power and ready means now afforded for the applica¬ tion of ornament to textile fabrics, is really calculated to promote that purity of decoration which sound judgment demands. The facilities for applying a great number of tints, or as it is technically called “colours,” to the production of a single pattern, has tended to vitiate and mislead the taste of the manufacturer, by causing him to rely upon gaudiness of effect cheaply produced, rather than upon the purer styles in colour, which limited means formerly compelled him to study and adopt. After all, however, this is absolutely a question ot the use of the means. Their abuse will, we trust, be duly corrected, as sound principles of art become more universally diffused. It will then be seen that the facilities for applying ‘•'■fourteen colours ,” gives the designer and manufac¬ turer a large choice, a wider range of scale, so to speak. This is not to be hastily or tastelessly thrown away, but to be consider¬ ately applied in printing so many tints only as may be really de¬ sirable to produce a given result, since “ fourteen ” may be just six or eight too many. At a banquet whilst the gourmand may desire to partake of every dish of every course, the wise guest will attempt nothing so foolish, but content himself with that which suits his own wants and digestive powers. It is thus the true artist will use the mechanical and chemical means placed at his disposal for the ornamentation of the various fabrics so largely produced for the purposes of dress, furniture, decoration, &c. We have already remarked upon the successful results pro¬ duced by the judicious combination of colour in the Lyons silks. The physical peculiarity of silk there noted as having been kept in view in the varied arrangements of tints, does certainly not exist in the same degree in any other material. That it does exist in some degree is, however, as certain as the fact that the colour of an object is always more or less affected by the prevailing tints of the objects by which it is surrounded ; and this too both as regards contrast, harmony, and reflection, whilst the result is in the exact ratio of intensity. We do not see much evidence that this fact has been observed or acted upon in the generality of tire pi'inted fabrics exhibited by the French. Positive harmony is obtained rather by a negation of tint, than absolute complement, as in the case of the Lyons silk ; and the best examples of printing are remarkable for the purity of form in the design, the excel¬ lence of work, and the permanence, rather than the brilliancy of the tints employed. In chintz furnitures we are inclined to doubt if France stands so well as it did in the Exposition of 1844. It may be, however, that the advance of the English towai’ds the excellence displayed on that occasion, has caused us to adopt a higher standard of judg¬ ment than existed at that period. Without discussing the question a3 to the truth of principle involved in the absolute imitation of the natural growth of flowers upon textile fabrics, we shall assume that since perfect imitation is aimed at, the work which approaches nearest to nature in form and colour is the best; always taking into account the character of the fabric, and the means employed. Tested by this standard, the French chintzes are not so perfect as the best English ones ; and as regards means of production, the English printer is in advance of his French rival. The productions of Mulhouse are thoroughly well represented, and in each department of the printed fabrics for which this locality has been so long famous, the greatest care has evidently been taken that nothing should be lost in the display. No prices are affixed to these goods, and thus a considerable element in a fair comparison with articles of the same speciality from other places is wanting. In the matter of excellence, irrespective of price, the printing of some of the cachmeres and muslins stands very high, but we think that the best English examples certainly rival, if they do not excel them ; whilst in the question of price, it is likely that the advantage is on the British side. Probably the best idea of the excellence to which the French printers have attained, will be arrived at by an examination of the displays of Gros, Odier, Roman & Cie., of Wesserling (5792, Empire Framjais). Hartmann, fils, of Munster (5797, Empire Fran§ais), and Schwartz and Huguenin of Dornach (3052, Empire Francis). The specimens exhibited by these houses present a thorough epitome of the French representation of this speciality of the higher class of printed goods. The contrast with the pro¬ ductions of Rouen is very great. These latter, consisting of the coarser and cheaper kind of calico prints, are certainly far below the average of the ’ same class of goods produced at Manchester. Seen in contrast with the products of the printing houses of Mulhouse, they are doubtlessly shown to serious disadvantage ; but even compared with goods of the same quality, exhibited in VII THE PARIS EXHIBITION the English department, they lose materially. Here again the elemenf of price so far as the public is concerned is left out, and whilst any piece of goods, from the highest to the lowest quality, exhibited by the Manchester committee is carefully and legibly marked, we could not discover any indication of this important element of comparison in these Rouen prints. The results of the exposition of printed goods cannot fail to be highly advantageous to England, commercially. This must be self-evident to any one who, after going carefully over the French examples in the gallery of the Palais de l’lndustrie, descends to that part of the building devoted to Manchester, and considerately examines the goods there exhibited. Not to take too much exception to the manner in which the various specimens are dis¬ played for inspection, we doubt the taste of simply converting the space placed at the disposal of Manchester into a mere ware¬ house. Without desiring to see so dignified a body, as the magnates of the north undoubtedly are, playing the part of fashionable drapers, it strikes us, that respect for their hosts, the Imperial Commission, ought to have suggested a more ornate arrangement of the large portion of the Palais placed at their * disposal. The leading idea of a Manchester warehouse might have been retained, since it is a good one ; but it has been starved in the realisation, the ai'rangement being unmeaningly bald when it might have been easily made very ornate, without in any respect destroying its usefulness and completeness. It may be asked, “How does this affect the result?” We answer, by causing many persons, who would otherwise carefully examine the articles, to rush through this wilderness of counters and calico as a mere place of business,—a shop on a larger scale ; since nine persons out of ten cannot appreciate the lofty moral intended to be conveyed by the utter abnegation of all show, resulting in a mere hurling down of the goods exhibited. Even men of business, large purchasers in the very warehouses of which this arrange¬ ment is a type, feel an uneasy sensation on entering its precincts. Most of them visit Paris chiefly on “ pleasure bent,” but their “ frugal minds ” suggest a little business, or something likely, at all events, to be useful to business. Suddenly they find themselves, after luxuriating in the enjoyment of the Art-works in the nave of the Palais, or the examination of the varied specimens of manu¬ facture in the gallery, plunged into the vraisemblance of a place sacred to bargains, bills at three months, bales, and bad debts, and without a thought at the sublime intention of the display around, they get out of the warehouse as fast as possible, glad to regain the pleasant sensation of being “ out for a month.” We have said thus much of the arrangement as affecting the results of this admirable display of the industries of Lancashire, because we believe that our Manchester friends have not done themselves justice by the mode in which they have carried out their resolution to show, in a complete and consecutive manner, specimens of every fabric which it is their province to supply to the markets of the world with the prices affixed; whilst they provided in an equally efficient manner for imparting to all parties concerned every information respecting the goods exhibited. In this latter respect Manchester has done itself justice collectively, whilst in¬ dividually the reputation of its manufacturers has been not only sustained, but further asserted and proved. The commercial lesson to our French neighbours cannot fail but to be highly instructive, resulting, we trust, in a relaxation of the old war tariff still existing, and likely to exist, but for well-organised appeals like this, to the common sense and the common interests of the French people. As regards individual exhibitors in the Manchester department the most remarkable, both for the excellence aud novelty of the results, is that of Messrs. Daniel Lee & Co. This consists of Cashmere Furnitures printed in some fourteen “ colours,” by cylinder. The result is an effect in many respects superior to block printing, since there is a softness of effect combined with precision, to which the best examples of block work rarely attain. These specimens stand alone in the exhibition and have attracted great attention bn the part of technical men. The French asso¬ ciate this invention with that of Mr. Burch as applied to the print¬ ing of Brussels carpets, of which numerous specimens are exhibited by the firm of which Mr. Burch is a partner,—Bright & Co. Indeed we are strongly inclined to think that the process of Messrs. Daniel Lee & Co. is of a very similar character to, if not identical with, that employed in the printing of carpets ; the varied tints being obtained by a species of dilution upon an analogous principle to the mode pursued in the execution of a water-colour drawing, though of course differing very materially in the mechanical method. It would be superfluous to detail the Manchester houses of repute who join in the united exposition of the industry of that city, since an unmeaning list of names would alone be the result. Those who have exhibited are put forward by the committee as the exponents, each of his own specialite. It is sufficient, therefore, simply to repeat our conviction that the collective display thus obtained is thoroughly satisfactory, except in the mode in which the goods have been arranged ; for in aiming at being very business¬ like, a most unbusiness-like result for the special purpose of the Universal Exposition has been arrived at. COTTON. Many of the above remarks, as applied to Printed Fabrics, apply also to the cotton fabrics generally. France exhibits useful cotton goods of all classes. Austria, Prussia, and Belgium are also fairly represented ; but the result certainly shows that in this special and important industry Great Britain stands very far in advance of her competitors, and we have no reason to suppose that the future will see our manufacturers in a worse position, relatively, than they stand at the present time. In fact, with the gradual introduction of the artistic element, which is slowly but surely making way in connection with the more useful articles, the advantage taken from time to time of improved machinery, the position, if changed at all, will be rather in favour of, than against, British industry and enterprise in a manufacture, which owes its present position almost entirely to English skill, ingenuity, and capital. LINEN. In scarcely any department of the industry of the United Kingdom have we felt ourselves more thoroughly ashamed for our country than in that of Linen. Allusion has been already made to the very unsatisfactory manner in which the sewed muslins of the north of Ireland are represented, and it is to be regretted that the Linen manufacture, both plain and figured, is equally defective. The Damask Table-Linen of Ardoyne is illus¬ trated by a few second-rate examples, indifferently arranged, and seen to a disadvantage. One point, however, must not be over¬ looked in connection with some of the best examples usually pro¬ duced by Mr. Andrews, which is the fact that they are manufac¬ tured for regimental messes, and the great majority of them bear devices, inscriptions, and the names of cities and battle-fields, which it would have been in the worst possible taste to have dis¬ played in Paris at any time, still more so on an occasion like that of the present Exhibition, and under the existing circumstances of two countries — once brave foes, but now honourable and faithful allies. This reconciles us somewhat to the deficiency which would otherwise be unpardonable. Scotch Damasks are well illustrated by the contributions of Mr. Erskine Beveridge, of Dunfermline. These, however, show no advance in design on his productions exhibited in 1851, and the same may be said of all the other specimens of the same class. There is still the same attempts to adapt meaningless arrange¬ ments of the human figure and animals,—the Portland Vase and its decorations, so true in itself and for itself, so utterly false and out of place in a material like linen. When will our manufac¬ turers use their native common sense in artistic matters ? If they would but ask themselves a few questions before rushing into some of their wild attempts at novelty, they would be astonished how much money, time, and labour they might save themselves. The French Linens and Cambrics are generally of extraordinary beauty. The quiet-looking diapers covering the surface of the fabric,giving it infinite variety of tint,so to speak, as also oflight and shadow, ought to teach our manufacturers that their ambitious attempts are a vain show, ending in nothing but disappointment. The quiltings, too, of the French manufacturers are of excellent material and make. The examples of the German States, Belgium and Holland, are of a somewhat similar character to those displayed in 1851. CARPETS AND TAPESTRY. No portion of the Universal Exposition has disappointed us so much as the specialite of carpets, while it is impossible to speak of the tapestry in sufficiently high terms. In nothing has French design misled our manufacturers so much as in the decoration of carpets. Putting out of sight altogether the real purpose and use of a carpet as a covering for a floor, which floor is a horizontal plane to walk upon ; ceiling and wall decorations, anything and everything but the true thing, has been employed in designs for carpets. We must, however, congratulate the English carpet manufacturers in general upon having, in many honourable instances, dared to think for themselves. Repudiating the flowers, skies, bridges, balconies, and peacocks which consti¬ tute the staple of the French examples, the English manufacturer has recently fallen back upon first principles, and the result is that since 1851 an immense advance has been made in the right direction. A carpet of Saracenic design, exhibited by Messrs. Watson, Son, & Bell, is an illustration of this, as also several specimens of velvet pile contributed by Messrs. Graham & Jackson of London, aud one or two examples of ordinary Brussels, manufactured by Mr. Charles Harrison of Stourport. These and a few others are honourable exceptions in a wilderness of VIII OF INDUSTRIAL ART. mistakes. With too much colour, large forms, and too much relief, nearly all the carpets exhibited are absolutely contradictory in design to their true purpose. Indian shawl patterns and the veritable old scroll work of plastic art are made to do duty as the decorations of a floor ! This is a fatal mistake, and cannot be too much deprecated. Let us have carpet decorations for carpets. Why not ? A little brain-work and judicious pencilling, and it is done. Haas, of Vienna, (1432, Empire Afitriche,) exhibits carpets of a similar character to those sent to the Great Exhibition of 1851 ; several are of the same patterns. These are certainly the best examples of purely natural arrangement to the decorations of carpets, and in this respect may be usefully studied. TAPESTRY. If we were asked in what department of industry the precision of science was most perfectly united with the sentiment and beauty of art, our reply would be “ In the tapestries of the Gobelins, and of Beauvais.” In these works, which are so thoroughly represented in the Universal Exposition as to leave nothing to desire, the perfection of chemical science as applied to the art of dyeing would appear to have been attained. Each tint, so delicately calculated upon and gradated, is wrought into its place in the picture with the artistic skill of the painter and the mechanical dexterity of the weaver ; whilst the result obtained is so perfect a reproduction of high class works of Art, as to render it questionable whether the original or the copy is most to be admired or coveted. In many instances, however, especially in modern works, there can be little hesitation on this point, since the tapestry copy is undoubtedly the most perfect in tone and colour : the glare of the pigment in the painted canvas being materially reduced by the softer and more absorbent character of the material in which the tapestry is wrought. The tapestries of the imperial manufactories of the Gobelins and of Beauvais are displayed to great advantage in the salon formed of the rotunda of the panorama which stood between the site of the Palais de l’Industrie and the Annexe. As a whole, nothing could be more perfectly satisfactory than the arrangement of the Imperial contributions in this rotunda; whilst the advantage of bringing together at one point the results of the enlightened patronage of the governments of France of those higher departments of industrial art which it would be madness in private enterprise to seek to rival, except in the smaller and less costly examples, must be evident to the most unobservant. Our present business, however, is with the specialite of Tapestry, and without presuming for a moment that it would be of any commercial value to our manufacturers to study the works exhibited, it is quite clear that artistically they cannot fail, in connection with our designers, to derive considerable benefit from their examination. For, if it went no farther, it must tend to prove that these works invest textile industries with a dignity of no ordinary character, whilst the preparation and dyeing of the material in which they are made cannot fail to exercise a beneficial influence upon the less costly fabrics, inasmuch a3 the discoveries resulting in the efforts after refinement of tint, and certainty of producing it when required, must descend to and materially assist the art of dyeing as applied to the more general textile industries of France. That this result has followed is certain, and we have no hesitation in saying that, had it not been for the efforts of such men as Chevreul, the able director of the dyeing department of the Gobelins, we should have looked in vain for the brilliant results as shown in the Lyons silks, and, so far as colour is concerned, in the St. Etienne ribbons, the shawls, and other mixed fabrics. Here then is the true value of establishments like the Gobelins and Sevres. If properly conducted they make experiments, solve problems, and test results at the expense of the state, which the wealthiest and most spirited manufacturer would hesitate in attempting. This is a species of protection which we should certainly deem impolitic in England in the present state of her manufactures, but he would be a bold man who would say that, in many important particulars, something of an analogous character would not have been useful in the earlier developments of many of our industries. Much time and many a costly failure might have been saved by rendering assistance and conducting experiments on an orderly, systematic, and accurate basis. Of course the true British doctrine is to blunder on in the glorious independence of the individual rights of each free and, possibly, ignorant citizen. You may probably save a nation a few millions of pounds sterling by judicious interference at the right time, as our railway flu-system lias proved; but the saving is no consolation if it even suggests to the individual citizen that he has no right to fling away his own money in his own way. Establish in England a chemical laboratory at the expense of the state to investigate and report from time to time for the benefit of all concerned, and even to instruct, at a moderate fee, the youthful manufacturer in the science of chemistry as applied to dyeing : present the results of experiments freely to all comers : solve the problem of rendering silk soluble, and coat cotton or any other fibre with the solution until it looks like silk : dye a perfectly fast green of any shade, or a drab which will not fade ; present the results freely to all who desire to avail themselves of your labour, and you shall find that the very thing which, if carried out by private enterpi-ise at an enormous expense, would be run after, patented, pirated, and universally used in some form or other, would be derided, abused, “pooh-poohed,” and even refused a trial, for no other reason than because it had not been blundered out in some dirty dye-house, presided over by some ultra-practical man ; but had been wrought out step by step through the systematic enquiries, and accurate experiments and deductions of a man of science : and this, too, at the expense of the state, (!) as the repre¬ sentative of the interests of the whole people. They certainly “ manage these things better in France.” The dyeing department of the Gobelins, and its influence upon the industries of which dyeing forms so important a part, is a proof of the practical value of such an establishment as that presided over by M. Chevreul. We trust that one of the results of the Universal Exposition will be to show British manufacturers that these government establishments are not the mere representatives of useless Art¬ works, but that, properly directed, something of an analogous character might be made useful, even on this side of the Channel, if gone about in an earnest unofficial spirit, plus common sense, and minus our constitutional “ red tape.” Beferring to the works exhibited as the production of the Gobelins, these being chiefly historical or portraits, it is difficult to select any specimens which can be said to be superior to the others, except perhaps in interest of subject. The whole must be seen to be understood, and the list given in the official catalogue (Class 23, page 160) will save further reference here. In the examples pro¬ duced at Beauvais, there is the same skill applied to a different class of subjects. The most striking of these are copies of pictures of still life, flowers, dead game, &c., together with furniture tapestries, mounted for exhibition in their proper positions in fine specimens of the cabinet-maker’s art. These are, to a certain extent, suggestive of decorative effects, and, in fact, the whole of the Beauvais tapestry partakes more of the ornamental than the historic, the latter being essentially the characteristic of the Gobelin specimens. Amongst the results of private enterprise in the manufacture of tapestry, it is only an act of justice to mention the admirable examples exhibited by Messrs, lffiquillait, Roussel, & Chocqueel, of Paris, Tourcoing, and Aubusson. The display made of artistic tapestry by this house, as adapted to furniture, &c., is very remark¬ able. The specimens of moquette, or velvet pile, are of great beauty, and in many respects afford excellent subjects for study in the production of similar works. In noticing the special efforts of the imperial manufactory of tapestry carpets {Tapis de la Savonniere) there is nothing to add to or take from the opinions already expressed as to the designs of French carpets generally. The perfection of work shown in the above examples is extraordinary, but again the question arises, “ Are these works of art,” (for such they are) “ fit coverings for a floor ? ” The forms, light and shadow, the perfection of imitation in relief, the very excellence of the work all tend to the answer,— No! MACHINES FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF TEXTILE FABRICS. In closing our remarks upon the textile fabrics of the Exhibition it may be desirable to call attention to certain new machines or improvements in existing contrivances for their manufacture. In power looms, Hartmann, of Chemnitz, Saxony (9, Royaume de Saxe), and Grassm&yer, of Ruette (Tyrol), (389, Empire d’Afitriche), exhibit specimens which are worthy of examination by those interested in machines of this class. J. P. Motte, of Troyes, (1621, Empire Frangais,) and N. Berthelot, also of Troyes (1610, Empire Fran 9 ais), contribute large circular machines for the manufacture of hosiery. Machines of excellent construction and remarkable for their ingenious adaptation to the manufacture of purses, guai’d-chains, scarfs, and articles of a similar class are exhibited by Deshayes, of Paris, (1423, Empire Framjais), Moiselet, of Paris, (1571, Empire Frai^ais), and Lanenville (not inserted in the catalogue.) A contrivance, too, for cutting fringe, well worthy of attention, is exhibited by Gantron, of Paris, (1570, Empire Fran§ais) ; Frochard, also of Paris (1615, Empire Fran^ais), has a machine for effecting the same operation as that of Messrs. Roux and Yoiner, aind, already alluded to in connection with the Jacquard improvements,—that of printing the paper patterns used by embroiderers in the transfer of the design to the fabric. FURNITURE AND DECORATIONS. France, as a matter of course, takes the lead in the extent and variety of ornamental furniture and decorations as connected with IX THE PARIS EXHIBITION i the embellishment of the interior of buildings, both secular and ecclesiastical; and as the pi'incipal seat of this department of industry is Paris, the facilities thus afforded to exhibitors of articles which it would be costly and dangerous to convey from a distance, has induced an enormous display of carved and inlaid furniture of a very ornate and frequently highly artistic character. It is somewhat singular that throughout the whole of this class of articles, there is really very little which can be said to be suggestive in a practical sense, especially as suited to English wants or'modes of execution. The construction is constantly covered up, and interfered with by the decoration. The former is in many instances only the vehicle for the latter. This great error in principle leads at times to very strange results, and the treatment of the ornamentation is often very wild and unsatisfactory. Chairs which it would be dangerous to the ornamentation to sit down upon, billiard tables, the decoration of which would certainly interfere with the free movements of the player, are amongst the least of the errors committed. Probably the exhibition of the well known Parisian house of Tahan, which takes a prominent position in one of the central avenues of the Palais de 1’ Industrie, will best illustrate this excess of elaboration. In these we find great excellence of manufacture, combined with a painful over¬ loading of the construction with useless and obtrusive details. A Jardiniere, for instance, has for its central ornament in front, a group of doves, Cupid’s bow and Hymen’s torch, wrought so high in relief, and projecting so far from the true form, that a lady passing near it would be likely to entangle the folds of her dress, and upset the whole before she was aware of the danger. The most striking lesson the English are likely to learn from the French furniture is the extent to which artistic education has been carried amongst the workmen who execute the carvings and inlaid work. The skill displayed, and the evident freedom with which it is used, is something marvellous. Occasionally details are a little overwrought, but in the generality of instances the workman appears to have had the true artistic perception when to leave off. The tooling of some of the carved accessories to the more important pieces of furniture is masterly, and adapted to the material with rare skill. At times there is a little affectation of the sculptu¬ resque types as suited to marble, and perhaps oftener still a tendency to the ultra-natural in imitation, in which the material appears to be forgotten ; but these are exceptions, and however much we may at times regret the misapplication of the skill, it is impossible not to be impressed with its extent, its variety, and the thorough intelligence shown by the Art-workman of Paris in the specialite of decorative furniture. There is an evident tendency to the introduction of more colour into furniture. This has been gradually manifesting itself of late years in France, and if not carried too far, of which there is great danger, the practice is not objectionable. At present tulip wood with or-molu mountings, appeal's to be in the ascendant. The result is very showy, but when carried to excess, as it often is, it becomes more or less offensive ; especially when contrasted with some of the more quiet effects around. .As illustrations of the best examples of the French furniture exhibited, though by no means comprising all deserving of careful examination, we would quote a cabinet d'armes, purchased by the Emperor, exhibited by Jeanselme, ph'e etfils, of Paris (7924, Empire Francais). Though very elaborate, the usual objectionable projec¬ tions have been avoided. The work is of a very high class, broad and intelligible, whilst the construction is strictly adapted to its purpose, that of a repository for fire-arms. A book-case, exhibited by the same house, constructed of walnut-wood inlaid with coloured stones, is another example of fine workmanship, judicious construc¬ tion, and appropriate ornamentation. A buffet by Durand, of Paris (no number in catalogue), affords an admirable example of arrange¬ ment. The carving is bold and effective without fritter, whilst the projection from the surface of the construction is kept within the bounds of propriety'. The bronze handles of the drawers, composed of oak-leaves and acorns, are well arranged, and the forms adapted for use. A large library cabinet, secretaire, and bookcase, in the style of the Renaissance, by Meynard, of Paris (7937, Empire Frangais), is a remarkable example of its class. The construction is of walnut, with mouldings of ebony. The ornaments, though a little too high in relief, are of a most admirable character in design and execution. A magnificent cabinet d'armes, by Jules Fossy (7971, Empire Francais); a cabinet and china buffet, in ebony and walnut, by Chaix (7899, Empire Fran§ais) ; a porte-fusil, by Gueret (7918, Empire Francais), are each excellent, and, in some respects, suggestive either in construction or execution. As examples of the combination of colour, either in marble, variegated stones, or painted panels, the contributions of Balny, jeune, of Paris (7890, Empire Frangais), Beaufils, of Bordeaux (7893, Empire Francais), and Charmais, of Paris (7900, Empire Francais), may be quoted. Balny has a bookcase in oak, inlaid with green marble, admirably arranged, and of excellent execution as regards the carving. Beaufils exhibits a large bookcase in three compart¬ ments, the two sides and each of the divisions decorated with figures representing Africa, Asia, Europe, and America ; at each end are two admirably-conceived and well-executed figures ; one, a veiled figure with a flame upon the forehead, representing Divine Law, the other, an armed figure, embodies the idea of Human Law. The whole work is one worthy of study and careful examination. Charmais exhibits a variety of bed-room furniture of a very high class, and a buffet in walnut-wood and ebony, with panels of green marble variegated with black and white striae. The mountings of the drawers, &c., are in bronze, with bronze relievi in some of the panels, and occasionally bronze ornaments are mounted upon the marble. The arrangement and execution of the whole gives evidence of high artistic and constructive ability, whilst the execu¬ tion is of such a character as to leave nothing to desire. This work alone would raise the workmen of the Faubourg St. Antoine, by whom it was executed, to the dignity of artists, even if there were not many other examples which go to prove, more or less effectively, that the French cabinet-maker has been trained in a school of Art adapted by an earnest intelligence to his wants and future pui'suits. Again, a buffet by Ribaillier, aine, & Mazaroz (7992, Empire Frangais), illustrates the combination of a high class of decorative painting with the carved work which ornaments the construction. In principle this may be objected to as applied to furniture, since it renders it too architectonic in design. In this example, however, there is so much to admire that we forget to apply the rigid test in admiration of the manner in which the work is carried out. Artistic alike in design as in execution, the animals, trophies of game, and details of the ornamentation, are wrought out with marvellous skill and effect: panels with a gold ground, upon which subjects illustrative of the chase, &c., are painted in a low key of colour, combine with carved emblems of suitable design, in which the vine, the wheat-ear, and the bryony are admirably treated, to give an ensemble of a most satisfactory character. Amongst the less ornate examples, a modest-looking little book¬ case, in oak, by Blanchet, of Paris (7966, Empire Frangais), may be quoted. It is charmingly designed and admirably executed. Another example of the same class, very elegant in its proportions, and in the details of the ornament, is exhibited by Bruland, of 117, Rue du Bac, Paris (not inserted in the catalogue). These specimens prove that in the less ornate examples the Parisian fabricants des meubles are not less successful than in those in which decoration appears to be the chief object of the designer, the use in the latter being often almost concealed in the abundance and richness of the ornamentation. Amongst the smaller articles appertaining to furniture, but classed as “ Objets de Mode et de Fantaisie," of which there are an immense display, both in the Palais de l’Industrie, the galleries around the Panorama, and in the Annexe, we have only space to quote the specimens exhibited by Diehl, of Paris (8828, Empire Frangais), as illustrations of the perfection to which this depart¬ ment of industry has now attained in France, A lady’s work¬ table of tulip-wood, a Psyche-glass in rose-wood and or-molu, a liqueur-case in buhl-work, fitted up with glasses in blue and gold, and a terminal clock, also in buhl-work, are all worthy of close examination and careful attention, amidst the masses of similar articles. All are without doubt more or less excellent, but it would be hopeless to attempt to examine thorn here in detail, even if it were worth while to do so. The manufacture of buhl-work is now carried on to an enor¬ mous extent in Paris, and at times rises to the dignity of Art; but at others the skill employed runs into great excesses of over¬ decoration. As a warning lesson in the avoidance of over-ornamentation in combination with excessive imitation, the works of Ribaillier,jew?!? (7991, Empire Frangais), may be taken. Here we have the most exquisite execution and beauty of detail aiming at the most perfect imitation of natural forms in the material used ; but the whole is so painfully suggestive of breakages and a species of noli me tangere sentiment, as to detract very seriously from the satisfac¬ tion which every person of judgment in Art feels on viewing a well-executed work. Probably the most extraordinary, and, to us, least understand¬ able work of its class in the whole Exposition, is the contribution from the manufactory of ecclesiastical decorations at Angers, de¬ scribed as “ Chaise et Autels," by the Abbe Choyer, director of the said manufactory. It consists of an immense and elaborately- carved work in oak, in which a peculiar class of design has clearly run mad from excess of liberty. We have an elaboration of towers, pinnacles, pendants, statues of saints, and bas-reliefs of scripture subjects, all concentrated in the altar, and seats proper thereto, of a Roman Catholic cathedral. One portion, a carving of a ruined town, is supremely ridiculous, artistically speaking, from the accu¬ rate chai’acter of the imitation. Of course these remarks refer to the nature of the work as a specimen of Art-manufacture, and not to the intention of the designer in conveying by such material X OF INDUSTRIAL ART. means, instruction in the symbolism of his church. With that we have nothing to do, since in this case it is with the means and not the end that our business lies. Rivart, of Paris (7993, Empire Frangais), exhibits specimens of furniture inlaid with porcelain, the effects of which are striking, but not artistically satisfactory. This was a novelty in the Great Exhibition of 1851, and M. Rivart was rewarded on that occasion. In the specimens now exhibited more metal is used, and whilst wood constitutes the basis of the construction, metal is introduced as a mounting, the porcelain forming the inlaid ornamentation. To those who saw the display of carved furniture in the Austrian department of the Great Exhibition of 1851, the contributions in this class of industry on the present occasion will appear meagre and unsatisfactory. We were not amongst those who thought very highly of the Austrian furniture exhibited in 1851 ; in many points it was by no means equal, artistically, to less ostentatious displays. The most noticeable example of furniture now contri¬ buted by Austria is at once devoid of all ornament, but most admirable in construction. It consists of a suite of chairs, fauteuils, &c., of extreme lightness, so much so as to be very suggestive of forms suited to cane or metal. These are exhibited by Thonet, freres, of Vienna (1487, Empire d’Atltriche). The Belgian furniture is generally of a very useful character, and frequently shows more ingenuity in construction than beauty of appearance. The specimens of parquetage flooring exhibited by Godefroy , freres, of Brussels (340, Royaume de Belgique), are very excellent; and one complete floor, together with a portion of another, by Dekeyn, freres , also of Brussels (337, Royaume de Belgique), presents points of a remarkable character in design and execution, which render them worthy of special examination by those engaged in the production of similar works. The parquets exhibited, in the Bavarian section of the Exposition, by Hartmann, of Munich (100, Royaume de Baviere), are also good examples of geometric arrangement. It is scarcely probable, however, that parquet work will ever be used to any great extent in England, except for the floors of lobbies, corridors, or waiting-rooms in public buildings ; and in all probability the Belgian manufactories could supply our wants in this direction much better and cheaper than we could supply them ourselves, since attention to this speciality would be costly, without any chance of an adequate return for the time and outlay. In this we realise one of the commercial advantages of international expositions, for by them we may ascer¬ tain how to buy more economically than we can make. The furniture of the other continental states does not demand any special notice here, for though in many respects excellent of its kind, it does not present features sufficiently distinct either in construction or decoration as to be likely to repay a detailed examination. English furniture is not largely represented. As a whole, how¬ ever, the examples sent are of a good class and show fairly what our workmen can do. The principal works are placed in the central portion of the Palais de 1’ Industrie, the most remarkable being a cabinet of excellent design, and still more excellent workmanship, exhibited by Messrs Graham & Jackson of London. In this acknowledged tour de force of British skill may be seen a very distinct manifestation of the results of the Great Exhibition of 1851, since we doubt if any manufacturer would have attempted so remarkable a work under a less stimulating influence than that occasion furnished, not only to producers but to the purchasers of such special efforts. The arrangement of the ornamentation and figures in ormolu, the admirable character of the chasing, and the execution of the porcelain plaques are all so many points gained in British Art-industry since 1851. For although the design is by a Frenchman, the casting and chasing of the ornaments and figures was intrusted to the London branch of the house of Messrs. Cope & Collinson of Birmingham, the porcelain portion being the production of Messrs. Minton of Stoke upon-Trent, who we under¬ stand undertook the work at a very short notice, after a most unbusiness-like delay on the part of the managers of the Imperial manufactory of Sevres ; with what success the plaquAs themselves will best tell on examination. Now we are somewhat inclined to quarrel with Messrs. Graham & Jackson for going to Sevres at all, and not a little rejoiced that their mightinesses the directors of that establishment did disappoint them, and greatly delighted that a British manufacturer took up the work at the eleventh hour and fulfilled his engagement to the day. This may tend to show that other Art-works maybe produced nearer home, if we did but care to look at that which lies at our feet or ready to our hand, instead of shutting one eye and looking through a telescope formed of our own prejudices at the more distant, but, very frequently, not superior skill of our neighbours. We trust that the results of the enterprise shown by the exhibition of this admirable piece of furniture will be a lesson to others. Messrs. Holland & Sons, and Messrs. G. Trollope & Son, also-contribute each a specimen of furniture, placed near to the work above noticed. Each is distinctly different in character. That shown by the last-named house is a wardrobe of satinwood, the parts being well arranged, and inlaid chiefly with tulip and green-wood interspersed with the wood of the linden- tree, which is not unlike ivory in colour and appearance. Messrs. Holland exhibit a book-case in oak excellent in the character of the design and workmanship. Messrs. Banting; J. G. Crace ; Morant & Boyd; and a few other London houses of note in the production of furniture, also contribute specimens which prove that English executive skill is being better directed in matters of design than heretofore. In papier-m&chd comparatively little movement appears to have taken place in English products. There is a tendency certainly to a somewhat severer style of decoration, but we fear that the very facilities for producing “ startling effects ” is a con¬ stant temptation to the manufacturer to cater to the desire of the public, for what, in theatrical phrase, may be called “ terrific contrasts.” We have already alluded to an analogous position in relation to printed fabrics, in which the mechanical and chemical facilities for the introduction of a multiplicity of tints really does more harm than good, artistically. Now the various coloured metallic powders, the facilities for painting rainbow tints with ordinary pigments ad libitum, are all so many stumbling blocks in the way of the cultivating a purer taste as applicable to the decoration of papier-m&che. The tendency to admire glaring colours and effects produced by violent contrasts is always an evidence of a puerile, not to say savage want of taste, otherwise j udgment in art; and it seems tolerable certain, that we of the Find-Fault Master General’s department must be content until by a constant iteration of better principles the consumer is taught to appreciate better things, and demand them from the manu¬ facturer. The French progress in the decoration of papier-mache is more marked than we expected, since in the expositions of 1844 and 1849 there was little in this direction which could at all compare with third or fourth-rate examples of British japanning. In the present Exposition, however, there are a few examples, at least, which show that progress is being made; and in a manufacture suited, as we conceive, to the genius of the French people, it is by no means unlikely that ere long we may find a serious rivalry springing up in Paris, especially in the smaller articles of caskets, work-boxes, writing-desks, &c. In carton-pierre decorations, there appears to be a much more limited display than in 1844. Cruchet, of Paris, maintains his old position alike in this material as in decorative wood-carvings. His decorations in carved wood, with painted medallions, afford some admirable hints to our decorators ; but we doubt whether, as a whole, Cruchet exhibits anything which excels the ceiling cove decorations executed by Messrs. J ackson, of Rathbone Place, London, for Holford House, Regent’s Park, a specimen portion of which is exhibited by the latter. In decorations in leather, Dulud maintains his reputation, and some of the examples exhibited are excellent for their combination of relief effects and colour. There are some admirable imitations of leather decorations in paper, by Martella, in the style of the ancient wall-coverings. French plastic art, as applied to decorative purposes, has always presented so many features of interest, and so many points worthy of study, that to simply allude to this department of industry here is sufficient, as special selections are clearly impossible where nearly every exhibit presents points of its own. In paper-hanging there is comparatively little hi the whole Exposition which we should desire to see our manufacturers emulate. The Prussian designs are of considerable beauty and variety in the abstract, but considered as the decoration of a wall, and as a background to objects, animate and inanimate, which form the distinguishing features of every apartment, we doubt their appropriateness. There are a few good examples of wall¬ papers exhibited by P. P. Armand, of Geneva (380, Confdddration Suisse) but taking the wall-papers as a whole, although for excellence of work and beauty of colour the majority of them cannot be surpassed, we think that in the matter of design some of our English manufacturers are producing examples very superior to them, and that the tendency to recognise a fixed principle for the production of these useful and highly essential adjuncts to the decoration and comfort of our homes, is on the increase. We are quite sure that an examination of the paper-hangings in the Universal Exposition will only tend to strengthen the healthy action to which we refer. A wall paper is not an isolated decora¬ tion, or an incessant repetition of one. Its chief purpose is to vary in an agreeable manner a surface against which other objects are to be seen, and just in the ratio that it interferes with the proper display of those objects as a whole, so does it depart from its true function as a background. The floor-cloths come within the same category as the wall¬ papers, and are rather suggestive of what to avoid than what to emulate. Those by Goehring & Boehme, of Leipsic (18, Royaume de Saxe), exhibited in the Annexe, are however worthy of exami- XI nation, as excellent imitations of well-designed parquetage, adapted to the mechanical methods of printing floor-cloths. In mosaic decorations, the table-tops, sixteen in number, exhibited by the Pontifical States, are worthy of careful and minute exami¬ nation, as suggestive of treatment in kindred productions. The mosaics exhibited by the Royal Manufactory of Tuscany (155, Grand Duche de Toscane) are of extraordinary beauty and excellency, but tend towards the domains of Fine Art, as in the case of the productions of the Gobelins, Beauvais, and Sevres. Tuscany also exhibits specimens ofparquetage, the manufacturers being Messrs. Chalon & Estienne, of Florence (87, Grand Duche de Toscane). These are superior in design to those of Belgium, already mentioned, being more essentially mosaic in their character. As a whole, there are few departments of the Universal Exposi¬ tion in which the time of the manufacturer or designer, specially interested in the industrial bearings of Art, can be spent more profitably than in that of furniture and decoration generally. Before closing our remarks upon the furniture and decorations of the Exposition, it is only an act of justice to an important de¬ partment of English industry to notice the excellent examples of painted imitations of woods and marbles exhibited by Kershaw, of London, and Moxon, of London and Edinburgh. These specimens of imitative skill have attracted the attention of the French house-painters to such an extent, that on several occasions we could scarcely approach them owiug to the groups of workmen en blouse, who were busily engaged in examining them and dis¬ cussing their merits with a gusto perfectly refreshing, as com¬ pared with the utter apathy which too frequently characterises the English workman when a work of a superior character in his own trade is brought before him. It was quite evident that these imitative woods and marbles had taken Monsieur Jean by surprise, and in the innocence of his heart he gave full expression to his feelings in relation thereto. PORCELAIN. There exists in England a popular notion respecting the manu¬ facture of porcelain in France, that, however remarkable the pro¬ ductions of the Imperial Manufactory of Sevres may be as works in which a high class of Art is displayed at enormous cost to the state, yet that the manufacture of all the more useful articles for which the Staffordshire potteries are celebrated is almost entirely neglected in France; and that, from some unknown cause, whilst French porcelain is so elegant and perfect, French pottery-ware is just as clumsy and as imperfect : and that there is no excej>tion to this rule. The present Exposition will tend very materially to correct this delusion, since a quiet walk through that portion of the Palais dTndustrie devoted to the ceramic manufactures of Fra nee, as distinguished from the special productions of Sevres, will show that there is really no ground for the assumption that France cannot furnish itself with the more useful kind of porcelain and pottery. The question of how far this can be done to advan¬ tage commercially is another matter, and one which the remark¬ able display organised by the English manufacturers will probably do much to answer. "We were certainly not prepared to see such specimens of ordi¬ nary white-ware as those displayed from the various districts of France in which this speciality is carried on. During the past ten or eleven years a great change has certainly taken place in the modes of manufacture, as well as in the objects of this important industry. This is fully evidenced by the remarkably elegant and practical display of Messrs. Lebeuf, Milliet, & Cie., of Moutereau (5453, Empire Fran§ais). This consists entirely of useful articles in white, printed, painted, and gilded ware of a most excellent character. Here we find no attempted tour deforce , but a distinct and conscientious exposition of the precise articles which the exhibitors are engaged in supplying to their fellow countrymen ; but whatever the display lacks in attraction to the mere sight-seer, is abundantly compensated for by the sterling manner in which it commends itself to the practical man, the industrial artist, and the manufacturer. It is therefore worthy of the special attention of all interested in the manufacture of porcelain. Another noticeable exhibition of white-ware is that of J. Pouyat, of Limoges (5525, Empire Framjais). The outline of the forms is generally well-studied, and admirably suited to each piece, but by a strange oversight some of the more useful articles of the dinner service, which usually have the larger surfaces left as plain as possible for facility in cleaning, are decorated in relief in a manner not calculated to promote so desirable an object. The colour, glaze, and texture of these specimens are excellent. A centre-piece en bisque, composed of storks and palm-leaves sup¬ porting a tazza, is exquisite in design and execution ; the former is certainly a little too much in the naturalesque style, but the symmetry of the whole is perfect, and the effect thoroughly ornamental. M. Sazerat, also of Limoges (5529, Empire Fran 9 ais), has also a charming .display of white-ware. The flower vases are ulti a-naturalesque in the decoration, but singularly broad in treatment in the modelling. In fact the modelling power displayed in the French productions in porcelain is something remarkable, and contrasts with great effect with that shown by every other country, a few of the Parian groups of Minton and of Copeland excepted. This excellence in modelling is remarkably obvious where no part of it is concealed by colour and gilding ; for in the imitation of Dresden ware the modelling does not appear to be always quite successful, even in the best examples. Space will not permit us to enter into any detailed examination of the skill in painting porcelain, which the works in the Exposition prove to be greater than ever. At least, there is no evidence of any falling off. In most instances, however, the works are over¬ gilt. This detracts from the value of the colour, and frequently gives a metallic appearance to excellent works in porcelain, which is not suited either to the forms, or the use of the article thus decorated. In printed ware there are some excellent specimens, in which the design and engraving have been carefully adapted to the method of transfer. Amongst the examples shown by De Saint Amans, of Lamarque (5574, Empire Fra^ais), are two plates decorated in the litho-vitro-calographic process with printed medallions of Napoleon I. and Queen Victoria. The treatment is especially effective and artistic, and whilst we object to the use of medallions for the decoration of plates and dishes, the mode of engraving and printing adopted in these specimens affords examples for imitation in more appropriate pieces. In Beauvais ware we doubt if there is so much excellence shown as in the productions exhibited in 1844 ; nor do we think that, on the whole, has any material advance been made in garden pottery. The pendvJ.es in Beauvais ware aud terra-cotta for hot-houses are of a similar character, and many of precisely the same design as those which attracted so much attention in the exposition of eleven years ago ; and they still afford the same hints to our manufacturers of garden decorations as they did at that time, for there has certainly not been that improvement in England in this direction as could be desired. In the very highest class of ceramic art, the display of the Imperial Manufactory of Sevres of course takes the lead, and fairly overwhelms the visitor with the variety and extraordinary cha¬ racter of its contributions. It affords a strange contrast, and a by no means useless lesson, when looked at in connexion with the rudeness, and often unnecessary ugliness of the common pottery ware, which certainly are quite as bad, often worse, than articles of a similar class as made in England ; the rude attempts at cheap pottery in the United States of America are the nearest approach we have seen to some of the more common utensils as exhibited by some of the French potters. In the imitation of Palissy ware and Faience, the French ex amples are often very excellent, but we do not think that they come up to the refinement observable in some of Minton’s examples. There is often an affectation of rudeness about them which detracts from their value as truthful imitations, although the modelling would at times do no discredit to the enthusiastic Bernard himself. The specimens exhibited by Landais, of Tours (5558, Empire Fran§ais), are examples of this. There is great excellence of colour, and that marvellous power of modelling which we have already noticed as applied to the specimens of white-ware. Nor should those contributed by Barbezet, of Paris (5439, Em¬ pire Framjais), be overlooked, as they present also special points of excellence. In shaded enamel ware, or email ombrant, there are none of a superior character to those shown in 1844. Amongst the best imitations of Faience are those contributed by Devers, of Petit-Montrouge, near Paris. These constitute a remarkable display, rendered still more so by an extraordinary application of the processs employed, to the production of a work of singular power and originality. The whole forms a vitrified picture of five-and-a-half metres high, by four-and-a-half metres wide, inclusive of a frame or border of flowers and fruits in relief. The subject is, “Guardian Angels.” They are represented as watching over the safety of a sleeping infant, lying unprotected upon the earth below them. The sentiment of the work is exquisite, and the execution, which is broad and effective, ap¬ proaches in parts to the grand. A yellow tone pervades the whole, which, however, is not sufficiently marked to be objectionable ; whilst the fact that the picture is formed of distinct slabs of terra¬ cotta, does not strike the spectator until after a close examination, so admirably are all the parts united in the colour ; although the joints of the slabs are by no means so clean at the edges as might be supposed to be necessary to so perfect an ensemble. We commend this work to the study of all interested in vitrified manufactures. As a tour de force it is a triumph of skill; and when it is remembered that the artist is little more than a poor workman of very humble means, the interest which the work creates is not a little increased ; for the mind at once reverts to XII OF INDUSTRIAL ART. tlie early struggles of Bernard Palissy, and seeks to find a parallel in the ouvrier of Petit Montrouge. On comparison with some of the reproductions of Faience in the French department, the specimens exhibited by Freppa, of Florence (114, Grand Duche de Toscane), stand well. The Austrian porcelain is certainly not equal to that shown in the Great Exhibition of 1851. The mass of it is indifferent in colour, and overladen with gilding. In terra-cotta, however, Austria makes a great display. The best specimens both in design and execution are, however, those by Miesbacli, of Vienna (1018, Empire d’Afitriche). His garden - fountain is, to our mind, a remarkably well-contrived, and, on the whole, a clever work, artistically. The architectural arrange¬ ment is novel, and to the purpose. The whole is a repe¬ tition of a few parts well put together. For example, there appears to be but ten pieces to the base, including the small figures. The ten pieces are repeated four times each. The figures are fixed in niches, and bestride a vase, from which the water flows. There are, in addition to the number of pieces above-named, four figures of the Seasons, each, of course, being different in design. The central tazza, surmounting the whole composition and carrying plants, appears, including the shaft, to be constructed of about ten or twelve pieces repeated, to make up the whole construction. The terra-cotta exhibited by Prussia is more remarkable for its size than the artistic skill displayed; but the specimens of porcelain exhibited from the Royal Porcelain Manufactory at Berlin (736, Royaume de PruSse), are certainly unrivalled in the Exposition, so far as the pictorial effects, of which they are the medium, are concerned. The high class attempts in the Belgian department are not satis- factoi'y ; but Cappellemans aine of Brussels (418, Royaume de Belgique), exhibits useful articles in pottery, of a very good class, in the production of which machinery has been applied with some success. In no department of British industry is there a better display than in that of porcelain, and other fictile manufactures. The Staffordshire potteries may boast of an organised exposition, which, without destroying the individuality of each producer, fully and fairly illustrates the manufactures of that important district in a manner which has caused no slight expressions of wonder on the part of the French. Messrs. Herbert Minton & Co. might, single- handed, claim to have shown, that both in an artistic and utili¬ tarian point of view, the followers of the early Staffordshire potters have not degenerated in enterprise or skill, since Wedgwood created their trade, and brought the artistic element to bear upon their productions. The direct successors of Wedgwood illustrate their return to the manufacture of the famous jasper ware : but to produce parallel works, a kindred genius to that of Flaxmau is wanting, and kindred enterprise to that which employed him. Messrs. Ridgway show a complete series of the useful articles which they manufacture, and worthily sustain their reputation. Messrs. Mayer’s display is also of a very interesting and valuable character, as showing to what an extent the cheaper and more mechanical methods of decoration may be adapted, so as to produce highly artistic results. The forms of the pieces, too, are generally good, and the accuracy and precision with which the details are carried out, prove incontestably that when English manufacturers once see the value of Art and judiciously apply it, they can do anything they please within the limit of the materials used. We confess to be somewhat disappointed with the exhibit of Messrs. Copeland. Beyond illustrating the speciality of the house in the manufacture of Parian statuettes, in which, however, there is little of novelty since 1851, Messrs. Copeland appear to have simply contented themselves with putting in an appearance, and resting content with past efforts, which are, as a whole, fairly illustrated. Here we have the same excellence of general design and execution in vases, etc., and the same artistic power in the flower painting as heretofore, but no new application of such abundant means. Some of the larger busts in parian are remarkable specimens of the successful application of that peculiar and beautiful material to works of considerable size, as compared with the ordinary productions therein. Messrs. John Rose & Co. of Coalport, have certainly viewed this matter somewhat differently to Messrs. Copeland; for in their productions, exhibited chiefly in combination with Messrs. Daniel of London, there is evidence of a progress since 1851, which cannot fail to be recognised by all interested in the question of the prin¬ ciples of taste as applied to ceramics. In combination with Messrs. Daniel, Messrs. Kerr & Binns of Worcester show a few fine ex¬ amples of their productions of Limoges ware, which without exactly coming up to all the precision of the old Limoges, presents points of excellence which show very distinctly how far the attention of the porcelain painters of the present day may be successfully directed to the rivalry of the best and most refined works of a past age. We have reserved the consideration of the two most remarkable displays of ceramic manufactures,—those of the Imperial Manu¬ factory of Sevres, and Messrs. Minton & Co., as affording an appropriate conclusion to this portion of our subject ; and in considering them together we do so with the fullest understanding that each must be tested from an essentially different stand-point, since the aim of the managers of Sevres is to produce fine artistic works regardless of time and cost, and with an utter repudiation of everything like the commercial element, whilst Messrs. Minton have to make the latter a primary feature in all they do. For, whilst aiming at artistic excellence, they have to consider how far the cost will be met by the price at which each article can be sold to a profit, and how far each production is likely to create by its attractions, a demand in the market; such demand being too frequently limited by the prices rather than the inclinations of those able to appreciate the results of their efforts. We have no hesitation then in declaring that viewed under the two aspects above quoted, Messrs. Minton’s display is by far the most remark¬ able, as it is certainly the most creditable to the energy and enterprise of its producers. Exquisite as the works exhibited from Sevres are, they are frequently rivalled on their own ground by parallel examides by Minton, whilst in a large class of articles the latter has struck out a new walk, or rather a return to an old one, which might well alarm the French for the cherished laurels and reputation of their pet manufactory on the banks of the Seine. In large works, all of them essentially tours deforce , Sevres stands, as heretofore, unrivalled for the perfection and completeness of each specimen ; although, as already stated, there are examples of a similar class which in certain points tread very closely upon them. In the smaller works, Sevres may be said to overwhelm and puzzle the visitor by the abundance of its contributions. High in character, broad in treatment, wonderful in the accuracy of drawing, and if not always perfect in design, yet suggestive of a power far beyond most of the productions of ordinary Art as shown in the far-fetched attempts at high Art par excellence , for in them we recognise the mind of the true artist. Each theme is thought out thoroughly, and executed with a precision and force indi¬ cative of a fixed purpose, and a full apprehension of all that is required to be done. We thus broadly enunciate our conviction as to the leading characteristic of the Sevres display, since to select special exam¬ ples, as under ordinary circumstances, would be clearly impossible ; we shall therefore content ourselves by quoting two of the larger examples. Artistically, the chef-d''oeuvre of the Sevres contribution is a vase commemorative of the Great Exhibition of 1851. The form is essentially Roman, and is ornamented with antique scrolls in white and gold, in low relief, upon an Indian red ground. A collar or fillet supports the body upon a short shaft, which is broken by four masks representing Asia, Africa, Europe, and America. The body itself is decorated with detached groujrs of figures proceeding from the back to the front, where Peace is represented as en¬ throned, having Plenty on one side and Justice on the other. The groups to the left are formed of figures symbolic of England and her colonies, Russia, the United States of America, and China ; those to the right representing France, Belgium, Austria, Prussia, Spain, Portugal and Tui-key. A figure at the back divides the groups, and is ingeniously posed in the attitude of sending them upon their mission. The upper curve of the body and the neck are decorated with olive leaves in bronze, the fruit being gilt. The words “ Ahondance ,” “ Concorde ,” “ Equite," are inscribed above the whole. The effect of this thoroughly well-considered work of Art is at once harmonious and highly satisfactory. The mind dwells with pleasure alike on the ensemble and the details, whilst a certain air of novelty gives it an additional attraction—because it is thus taken out of the beaten track of the ordinary vase designer. The dead effects of the bisquet contrasts admirably with the brilliant effects of colour and the sparkling of the metal wreath of olive leaves and fruit ; and as a special effort it stands alone, in its way, in the Universal Exposition, alike for thoughtful design and skilful execution. Another colossal vase presents some remarkable features in the method of the ansation. A rope is carried round the whole, and so arranged that the strands and knots form a continued decoration. The latter being grouped in unequal quantities, but symmetrical proportions, give spots which vary the surface, whilst they are subordinate to the general outline. The painting and gilding of this vase is very superb, the poppies which form the subject of the decorations of the body being remarkable examples of high-class flower-pxinting on porcelain. The gilding in the Sevres porcelain is much less abundant than in the commercial china-ware of France, and thus gains largely in point of taste. As examples of porcelain-painting, several reproductions of famous pictures are exhibited, the best being portraits of the Emperor and Empress, and a copy of Vandyke’s Charles I. We now turn to Messrs. Minton’s contributions, forming in XIII THE PARIS EXHIBITION themselves an exhibition of no ordinary character artistically, and certainly, as the production of one house, the most remarkable display, commercially, in the whole exposition. Properly classified, the collection is illustrative of the past and present works in porcelain all produced through a series of years by Messrs. Minton, and proves what may be done by earnestness and zeal in a given direction, whilst there is no room to doubt that it is equally an evidence of that triumphant commercial success which ever attends intelligent and well-considered efforts, directed to the improvement of a staple industry by those who understand its wants, study its means, and knowhow to make the best use of its appliances. Such we apprehend is the secret of the success here rendered so manifest, since the same feeling and intelligence is carried more or less throughout all the examples, for each is evidently adapted to meet the wants of a certain class of customers. For the wealthy, whose money is in the excess of their taste, we find works abundant in ornamentation, yet calculated rather to correct their love of the exuberant than cater to their whims and caprices in this direction. For the customer of limited means, whose object is to obtain elegance rather than magnificence, there is a still wider choice, and whether in form or in colour, in modern works, reproductions, or imitations, the most fastidious on the one hand, or the most careless on the other, will find something to meet their wants and stimulate their taste. This is our conviction, arrived at after a careful consideration of the various examples in the different branches of ceramic art, as exhibited by Messrs. Minton. In thus giving full expression to this conviction, how¬ ever, it is by no means to be implied that the examples exhibited are of equal excellence, or that absolute perfection has been attained to, even in any single specimen. Our view is a mixed one. If viewed from the absolutely artistic stand point, then it fails in coming up to the Sevres display. If looked at from a purely commercial point of view, then in all probability the wise denizens of market, or the oracles oil “ ’Change,” may consider that the production of a given number of tons of ugly earthenware will “ pay ” far better than all this refinement concentrated upon a mere portion of such material weight. Considered, however, as a union of the useful with the artistic ; that which brings honour and reputation, with that which pays ; we repeat, that Messrs. Minton have shown sound judgment and a wise patriotism in this effort to do full justice to their industry, and that of the important district in which it is carried on, in the Universal Exposition of 1855. It would serve no useful purpose to discuss the merits of individual examples, did our space permit us to do so. In the specimens of parian exhibited there is the usual excellence for which the productions of this house and that of Copeland have been for some years so remarkable, and which so far surpass in colour and beauty of material the cold-toned bisquet statuettes, &e., of French and German manufacture. In terra-cotta and encaustic tiles there is a marked advance on the specimens shown in 1851. The results are more decidedly artistic, whilst there is greater novelty of subject and originality in design. One or two specimens of encaustic floors, painted in the style of the antique mosaics, are remarkable examples of artistic breadth of treatment, and of pure, intelligent drawing and execution. The greatest novelties, however, are certainly the examples of the revival of an old industry in new forms, and the producers of modern Faience, whatever may be their merits as imitators of the antique, receive a lesson from these specimens of modern Art wrought out after an old manner ; for in confining their attention to the imitation of the more ancient examples, they only effect one-lialf of their work, since with a due share of skill and enterprise they could enter into the field of competition with their predecessors of the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries : not merely as manufacturers, but as designers; not only as potters, but as artists. Messrs. Minton have achieved this, and there is no better example than the Dish and Ewer, designed and modelled by M. Jeannest, of living power in this direction. The whole arrangement of this work is so thoroughly in keeping throughout, and whilst severe in form and treatment, there is no affectation of an undue regard to the littlenesses of the ancient methods. In short, the artist has aimed at a broad and well understood rivalry of the excellences of ancient Faience, rather than a grovelling imitation of worn out types and methods. Thi3 is the true use of the antique, at all times and in all places, except in mere matters of restoration. Let the fine things of the olden time give the moderns the key-note as to the spirit of a work, if it is thought desirable to adopt a given method of treatment, but to invoke the past to crush the present, to “ cramp, cabin, and confine ” the aspirations of to-day by an everlasting quotation of yesterday, is the veriest waste of Dower, of precious time, and hard- earned skill. The result of the fictile expositions of France and England proves without doubt that the less the artists of both countries allow themselves to be led away by the conventional servilities of obsolete methods the better, and that they have only to combine the facilities afforded by modern science with their proved skill in Art, to do all they may aspire to, or perhaps it would be better to say, all that the commercial spirit of the age thinks it safe to allow them to do ; since your genuine shopkeeper, after all, is the true “ Sir Oracle ” of the market, dictating not only what the manufacturer shall produce, but also what the public shall buy, since the said “ Sir Oracle ” has a great horror of his customer daring to have a purer taste than himself. It is such houses as Mintons’ who will henceforth ride rough-shod over this absurdity, thanks to such displays as that of 1851 and of 1855. Lifting up the popular taste, and catering to it whilst raising it, the public will be taught to paraphrase the exclamation of Sir Toby, and rouse the retailer with—“ Dost thou think, because thou hast a taste for ugliness, there shall be no more beauty in crockery-ware 1 Yes, by St. Luke ! and if thou dost not provide it, somebody else shall! ” GLASS. After an examination of the porcelain, and the satisfactory impression made upon the mind by the thoroughness of the expo¬ sition achieved in this department of European industry, the display of ornamental glass, as also of the more useful articles in this material so essential to our every-day comforts, appears compa¬ ratively meagre and unsatisfactory. If the English manufacturer’s of ceramic productions have done well, then those of glass have as completely neglected their duty ; and, for all the evidence we have of the existence of the British glass trade, it might as well not exist, or be simply in a comparatively early stage of its develop¬ ment. The exceptions to this are to be found in the exhibits of some two or three houses. Messrs. Daniel, of London, show a few excellent examples of table glass, with their porcelain. Messrs. Lloyd & Summerfield, of Birmingham, exhibit as manu¬ facturers, and sustain their reputation for the production of flint- glass of high quality. They also illustrate their patent method of constructing window-bars of glass, to which our architects espe¬ cially, when constructing shop-fronts, might usefully pay more attention than they appear to have done; since there is a wide field therein for the introduction of both novelty in construction, and beauty in the decorative adjuncts. Messrs. Osier & Co., of Birmingham, exhibit a candelabrum of fine chaiacterin design and construction, upon which we shall take occasion to speak in due course ; but of table glass, &c., so important in a commercial sense, they do not contribute a single article. In considering the character of the continental glass, it is natural to turn first to the quarter where we might expect to see it represented in its best and most tasteful forms. On examining the Bohemian glass contributed on this occasion, only one conclu¬ sion can be arrived at, and that is, that the peculiar excellencies of its manufacture are not so thoroughly illustrated as they ought to be. Of originality there is very little, with the exception of a few examples of large vases. One pair of these vases is intended to illustrate, as we suppose, the Egyptian style of ornament in this material. The base of each vase is light blue, and the body of white opal. The figures which decorate the surface being gilt in relief, shows what strange mistakes may be made in the modern chase after novelty. Here is a style of Art in which ornament ought almost invariably to be treated in intaglio, wrought out at a great cost and much labour, with the contradictory effect of the ornament treated in relievo ! Tuscany shows some admirable examples of domestic glass of great purity of material, and excellent effect in the cutting. Weight of metal does not here take the place of purity of form, as is too frequently the case in English cut-glass. In the Belgian department there is an excellent display of useful articles, of plain but good character, contributed by the “ Societ6 Anonyme d’Herbatte,” of Herbatte, near Namur (405, Royaume de Belgique), which only serves to prove with what advantage our English manufacturers might have entered the field ; and reminds the visitor interested in this department of industry, that the “pressed” glass of England and the United States, in the manu¬ facture and adaptation of which so much progress has been made within the last few years, is totally unrepresented. Now, it is quite clear to us that, had one or two of the more important glass companies of the United States, say the New England Glass Com¬ pany, and the Sandwich Company, both in connection with, or near to Boston, Massachusetts, have given themselves the trouble to have sent a series of their ordinary productions to the Universal Exhibition, they would have done themselves no little credit.* This they might have done more easily than the Pittsburg houses, from their being upon the sea-board, and having the advantage of a port in daily communication with Europe. As might be expected, the French manufacturers of glass, in all its varied forms, have taken especial care that their interests do not suffer from any apathy on their part, and accordingly each * The writer states this from personal observation as a member of the British Commission to the United States of America in 1853. XIV OF INDUSTRIAL ART. section is duly represented. In the court appropriated to the exposition of the glass manufacture of France, near the central avenue of the Palais de l’Industrie, will be found examples, of pure colour, fine cutting and engraving, and better still, great elegance in the general forms of the articles exhibited, which if carefully studied, might furnish many useful hints to our own manufacturers. Perhaps the most remarkable individual display is that of I. L. Maes of Clichy-la-Garenne (5330, Empire Fran§ais), whose exhibit in 1851 was rewarded by a Council medal. Many individual pieces might be quoted as examples of pure taste, alike in ornamentation as in form, and perfect adaptation of material to use. One little eau sucree service struck us, a peculiarly elegant illustration of a pure and legitimate method of ornamenting surface- coloured glass by cutting, and though far from new, its thorough ap¬ plication in a simple form challenged attention rather from its lack of ostentation, than because it pronounced itself too strongly amidst the articles by which it was surrounded. A pair of table lustres manufactured and exhibited by the Baccarat Glass and Crystal Company ( Compagnie des Yerrieries et Cristalleries de Baccarat) (5327, Empire Fran 9 ais), claimed attention for the admirable manner in which coloured, gilt, and white glass were combined for the production of a charming prismatic effect, and is suggestive of an analogous mode of treatment applicable to other articles. In chandeliers, candelabra, girandoles, lustres, &c., the French make a large, but by no means thoroughly satisfactory display. In the majority of examples too much has been aimed at, and worse still the characteristic crystalline features of the material has been strangely overlooked or bidden defiance to. Thus, in some of the larger examples of candelabra, the architectonic forms of stone, marble, and even metals, have been attempted to be followed. Now brackets, consoles, volutes, acanthus foliage, frets, and guilloehes in glass, are so many contradictions and absurdities, and when the diffi¬ culty of cutting or moulding the material into the requisite forms is achieved, the charm and value of such details is lost, simply because, in nine cases out of ten, their effect depends more upon their light and shadow, than upon their outline. In glass this light and shadow is lost, and even the outline of forms well adapted to an opaque material which reflects without transmitting the light, is very imperfectly seen. This mistake on the part of the French is rendered doubly obvious by the thoroughly crystalline character of the design and execution of the remarkable candela¬ brum exhibited by Messrs. Osier of Birmingham. In this work the prismatic theory of glass ornamentation has been most tho¬ roughly and successfully carried out. It is at once crystal-like in its material, construction and decoration, and in this lies the secret of its success. Whilst upon this question of the adaptation of form and decoration to material, it may be useful to call attention to the chandeliers in brass, glass, and porcelain, exhibited by Spinn of Berlin (747, Boyaume de Prusse). The constructive portions are of brass, the branches being profusely decorated with a growth of flowers in porcelain painted in their natural colours ; whilst from these metal branches spring leaves of green glass the fibres of which are gilt. The expenditure of artistic skill in exe¬ cution, as well as in cost of material, must have been very con¬ siderable, yet the result is offensively naturalesque. The examples of stained glass in windows are numerous and of a very varied character. They are chiefly shown in the pavilions which form the entrance to the galleries of the Palais de l’lndus- trie, these being located at the angles and in the centre, back and front. The most correct in style, according to English notions, are those by Messrs. Hardman, of Birmingham, executed for the great window of Westminster Hall, and several churches. The other English examples are of about the average of artistic excellence, though on the whole there is a decided improvement since 1851. Less pictorial and more mosaic, there is an evident tendency to more correct principles, and consequently less waste of mechanical and artistical power. The French and German specimens are, with a few exceptions, not above the average. Grignon and Co., of Metz, shows a very fine window, as also does Lusson, of Paris. The specimen by Gerente is a true mosaic, and gains by its integrity. The window by Lafaye is a curious but effective combination of architectonic, pictorial, and mosaic effects. The Belgian examples are for the most part of high excellence in execution. Messrs. Chance, of Birmingham, exhibit specimens of their transfer process from lithographic stones. Here is a wide field for working out a most legitimate method of glass ornamentation, if properly directed to its true use. These pictorial effects, how¬ ever, being mere reproductions of the ordinary landscape lithograph, are a decided waste of means and power. The printing process of Messrs. Chance, as applied to mosaic windows, is also illustrated by two or three examples. These also show how much may be done if the process is judiciously used. In fact, it would be difficult to set a limit to the results which might be produced by the union of the two processes carried out in a true artistic spirit. On the whole, there is no reason to suppose that had the repre¬ sentation of the British glass trade been as full and complete as it ought to have been, it would have suffered in any material point in the comparison with the productions of its continental rivals ; except, perhaps, in those particulars in which Art has been applied by the latter for a long and uninterrupted period, unre¬ strained by fiscal duties and unfettered by the mere traditions of obsolete methods. JEWELLERY. The extent of the display made by France in various branches of the manufacture of ornaments applicable to personal decoration is altogether so much beyond what the general visitor would expect, that we anticipate comparatively few persons will have either time or inclination to examine into the details of this remarkable exposition of the industry, chiefly of the City of Paris alone. With the limited space at our disposal it would be useless to attempt to discuss the merits, or even the leading features of the Imperial Exhibition of the Crown Jewels, arranged for the inspection of the public upon the central platform of the pano¬ rama, inasmuch as most visitors would make a point of examining them from the prominent nature of the display, whilst scores, probably hundreds, of articles of jewellery, the production of the skilled workers of Paris for commercial purposes, equally, perhaps more artistic though less genuine, would be overlooked. No person can walk along the front of the north gallery of the Palais de l’lndustrie, where the mass of the bijouterie of Paris is exposed, without being forcibly struck with the immense amount of skilled labour and true artistic power evidenced in the examples exhibited. No other city in the world could have produced such specimens of exquisite handicraft, of fanciful design, of artistic invention ; or as a whole, shown so much really good taste, when it is considered to what a fearful lack of taste the manufacturer of these articles has to cater, either in the dealer who stands between him and the public, or in that same public itself: since in few things do we see such an utter want of everything like fixity of principle as in the selection of personal ornaments in gold, silver, and precious stones, or their imitations. In too many instances we regret to find that the absurd attempt at an absolute imitation of natural forms does much to detract from the real merit of otherwise excellent examples. This is peculiarly manifest in the articles chiefly intended for exportation. It is, however, in the very highest class of jewellery, and the com¬ bination of precious stones with gold and silver, that the true strength of the French designer and Art-workman in this speciality is most evident. The works exhibited by Froment-Meurice, (5032, Empire Franqais), Budolplii (5042, Empire Fran§ais), Mayer (•5037, Empire Frau 9 ais), would alone suffice to prove this. In Froment-Meurice’s display there are a few old friends of 1851, not in any degree unwelcome ; whilst there is the same unrivalled power in smaller articles, carried to a still greater extent, which so thoroughly awakened public attention in the Great Exhibition in London. Some of the brooches, bracelets, &c., in oxydised silver, would defy Cellini himself to surpass them. One exquisite little bijou is a smelling-bottle, decorated with a Cupid and an interwoven arrangement of ivy. Anything more perfect it is impossible to conceive. Another too is a brooch, in oxydised silver, of a guardian angel, the arrangement of whose wings, in conjunction with a cross which forms the base of the composition, is most happily managed. Budolphi’s works are not a whit inferior, though somewhat different in certain points. He exhibits, amongst a variety of smaller examples of his art, a Prie-Dieu in gold, silver, and enamel. The mosaic imitations are of great beauty, but the large ornament at the back is very much out of proportion, and gives a littleness to the other details of the work by contrast. M. Jules Wiese, or Wiset, of Paris (5116, Empire Fran 9 ais), exhibits bracelets of extraordinary beauty in design and execution, as also enamels of great excellence. A book-case, in oxydised silver, is also a tasteful and instructive specimen of Parisian skill in this direction. The green velvet with which it is fitted at certain points harmonises most agreeably with the cold but rich tone of the silver, and gives a hint in colour which might be usefully taken. Our notes abound in quotations of examples of excellence in gold and silver filagree work, of bouquets in paste and diamonds, of imitations of precious stones and gold and silver for ecclesiastical purposes ; as also of theatrical jewellery, arms and armour. Seal handles, snuff-boxes, cigar cases, and the thou¬ sand and one articles comprised under the general head of “ Neces- saires et Trousses de Voyage," and “ Articles de Fantaisie," with which the Toy Court is tilled to repletion, also claim attention, which can only be given here by urging the necessity for more attention on the part of the producers of these articles in England to the activity of the Parisian manufacturers ; and above all, the necessity for a better special education for our artisans engaged in their production. This last is the great lesson taught to the THE PARIS EXHIBITION employers of skilled labour in England, and which sooner or later they must attend to. If the artisan of Birmingham was lifted more towards the dignity of the artist by early and sound instruc¬ tion in the artistic principles of liis trade, there is no reason why he should be a whit behind his fellow-worker of the Parisian Faubourgs. Probably, the great fault of the Parisian jewellery is its excess of ornament ; and, frequently, the superabundance of colour, in¬ troduced by the agency of enamel, or coloured stones. Iu this, however, we see the peculiar natural genius of the producers ; since much the same remark has to be made of nearly every department of French industry. A tiara and brooch of a very tasteful character, by Jean Dufour, of Brussels (396, Royaume de Belgique), is an excellent example of Belgian work, whilst the diamond bouquets of Romain, of Rotter¬ dam, whose works were rewarded in 1851, show that, though the Dutch may be considerably in arrear in matters of taste when applied to the mere fanciful productions of human industry, yet that there are exceptions which might be quoted as specimens of pure and unaffected taste in the decorative arts. The Euglish jewellery is not very extensive. To our minds, the most tasteful display is that by Phillips, of Cockspur Street, London. A tiara of lilies is very excellent; and the arrangement of the parts in some of the bracelets shows an artistic perception of fitness, not often displayed in works of this class. The revival of steel ornaments, in which bead-work plays a pro¬ minent part, bouquets of excellent construction and arrangement being an important feature, may do much to correct the tendency to the glaring effects now so prevalent. When it is recollected to what an extent the manufacture of steel ornaments was a staple of Birmingham, and especially of Wolverhampton, during the middle of the last century, and which fell with the great French revolution, it seems strange to look upon its revival in the very city which, next to Madrid, was the great market of the steel workers of the Midland Counties of England from 1760 to 1780. For them the trade is absolutely lost, so far as regards its highest manifestations, in the very locality in which, a century ago, it flourished, and gave employment to a considerable number of skilled workmen.* As a whole, then, there can be no doubt that an intelligent examination of the specimens of jewellery, &c., contributed to the Universal Exposition by those engaged in the production of kindred articles in London and Birmingham, cannot fail to be both useful and suggestive ; often, certainly, of things to avoid, but also much which might be emulated alike in design as in careful and conscientious execution. GOLD AND SILVER PLATE, &c. In no department of industry does the special education in Art afforded to the artisans of Paris by the municipality and the government show its importance and utility as in artistic metal¬ work, whether in the precious metals or in bronze. The necessity for the special education of the modeller and chaser of metal-work was fully acknowledged many years ago, and a school was established for the exclusive use of students intending to follow the specialite of metal chasing. This school of the Bronzists, as it ■was called, did its work efficiently, and at the period of the Exposition of 1844 was supported both by the municipality of Paris and the government. In this special school for workers in metal, all that appertained to the working of metal in a given direction, and for a given end, was alone taught, and instead of an heterogeneous mass of young men and boys, niue out of ten of whom do not really know what they study Art for, as iu the case of the English schools, the director of this Bronzists’ school had a homogeneous body of youthful artisans, all with a distinct purpose ; since unless their object was not only defined, but most unmistakeably that for which the school was kept open, they were not admitted to partake of its privileges. In the thoroughly artistic execution of the gold and silver plate and Art-bronzes of France we have the best proof of the value of this wise concentration of the objects of a special Art-school on a given end ; and we see that France stands almost alone for its power alike in invention as in execution in the specialite of artistic metal¬ work, whilst other countries avail themselves of the services of the very men France has specially educated to this .end. Here is a lesson of at least eleven years standing, yet Englishmen have not learnt it at present, but are still groping their way to some scheme by which the alphabet of Art shall be taught upon such recondite principles and with such perfection of routine and stereotyped method, that the relation of the Art-teacher and his pupil tends to illustrate the mechanical result of one automaton working another. A deceased relative of the writer was, at the period above named, the manufac- enrer ot nearly all the ornaments worn at the court of Louis XVI. Thirty years ago < lat remained as a memorial of a once-flourishing manufacture was a few poor old men, who occupied a portion of the former scene of their skill, almost as a charity, and earned a precarious livelihood by making corkscrews and tweezers. Meanwhile we are getting our modellers and chasers from France, and call the work thus produced specimens of English manufacture, par excellence, instead of French manufacture through the agency of English enterprise and commercial skill in the administration of industry. Can anything be more clearly evident that such is precisely the position of the gold and silver and electro-plate manufacture of England, as shown in the Universal Exhibition in the exhibits of Messrs. Hunt & Roskell of London, and Messrs. Elkington, Mason & Co. of Birmingham 1 The Veclite of the one, and the Jeannest of the other, with a corps of modellers and chasers, solve the problem of British Art as applied to the highest class of metal¬ work produced in London and Birmingham. ' We repeat it is English enterprise and not English Art-knowledge which does this,—English capital, not English hands directed by well-educated English intellects. And this is our best, though at the same time it may be an unpleasant, lesson. For we are told most unmistake¬ ably that we have neglected to cultivate in a practical form the talent which is around us, and thus are compelled to seek it where more far-seeing minds have grown it, inasmuch as they were wisely content to await its growth, and not like ourselves impatient of results before we had really begun our work. Let us then honestly give the honour where the honour is due, and however much we may be disposed to criticise and condemn the aesthetics of French Industrial Art, and point out its inconsistencies, still to bear in mind that it is to the educated skill of the artists of France we are at the present time indebted for much upon which we can con¬ gratulate ourselves. The English gold and silver work is indeed of very varied and miscellaneous character, and too frequently the value is made up in weight of metal for what the work lacks in taste and artistic power. The Goldsmiths’ Company did well for the glory of the City to exhibit their collection of plate, since if there was nothing very novel to show, yet it would prove, in some degree at least, that one portion of the Corporation of London had some pretence to be considered patrons of Ai't. Not that such figures as the fat Mercury, or the dull-looking representation of Plenty iu one of the pieces, would convey a very exalted idea of the quality of Art patronised. The works of M. Yechte exhibited by Hunt '& Roskell are unrivalled. A new shield commemorative of such English writers as Shakspeare, Milton, and Newton, the bas-reliefs filling seg¬ mental portions of the work, are full of the highest qualities of Art. We might allude here to the taste of the jewellery of this house, which is generally less ornate and more substantial than is usual in similar works. One or two rings are of an exquisite character. Mr. Hancock, formerly connected with the firm of Hunt & Roskell, exhibits a fine work, the subject of which is George and the Dragon. A few of the smaller works displayed by Mr. Hancock, and purchased by the Imperial family, are very excel¬ lent alike in design and execution, and generally the engraving of the various pieces throughout the exhibit is admirably executed. In Messrs. Garrards’ display the smaller and more useful articles are in good taste, being free from those ambitious attempts at useless ornamentation which are usually offensive, because it inter¬ feres with the real purpose of the article. G. R. Collis of Birming¬ ham exhibits a few specimens of his manufacture, which are really good in form and design ; there is, however, so many of the usual rococo type that we are more than ever tempted to wonder who buys them. We have the incessant marrow-bone scroll of that eternal Louis Quinze repeated after the approved fashion of the last twenty or thirty years ; brought in at all points, and iu all positions, vertical, horizontal, oblique and upside down. Shall we ever get rid of it 1 In Mr. Collis’s exhibit, the everlasting and always to be exposed Warwick Yase makes its appearance of course, with an almost equally old friend, the celebrated donkey inkstand or mustai'd-pot, for although we have known it for years, its absurdity in design is too alarming to permit any detailed examination as to its true use. This last article, together with the brobdignagian salver manu¬ factured for Mehemet Pasha, must greatly astonish or puzzle the French, and on seeing such specimens of our Art-manufacture they can no longer wonder at our seeking the assistance of such skilled workers or artists as we may be enabled to induce to submit to our vandalisms in sentiment, and our ultra-economic notions which so thoroughly over-ride even English perceptions of Art when applied to industry. There are a few other Birmingham houses which exhibit electro¬ plate, iu which an improved style is very evident; those of Messrs. Cartwright, Hirons, & Woodward, for example, as also a few specimens by Pride & Son. The engraving, however, in some of the articles exhibited by the latter is execrable in taste and execution. The forms too of some of the Britannia metal goods exhibited by R. F. Sturges, proves how much more might be done with a true perception of artistic form in its adaptation to the means at the command of the manufacturer. The plated goods of XVI OF INDUSTRIAL ART. Messrs. James Dixon & Sons, of Sheffield, also show a marked improvement since 1851. Several of the services are of pleasing design, and the details are generally in good taste. It is quite clear then that we must find fault, “ grumble and get on,” not allow any one to go to sleep, because their predecessors did something which somebody thought very fine. This will not do in this day; and we have no better illustration of this than the position attained by Elkington’s house as compared with others who a few years ago were regarded as the leaders, by prescriptive right, of the silver and plated ware manufacture of Birmingham. No one who can remember the nature of the designs which prevailed fifteen or twenty years ago can fail, on entering the court devoted to the display of Messrs. Elkiugton, MasoD, & Co., to see at once that a marvellous change has taken place in tbe character of these productions, and that the puerilities and ultra-naturalesque imi¬ tations of even a very recent period are gradually vanishing before a better understanding of what Ornamental Art really is, how it ought to be applied, when and where applied, and above all, that if it cannot be so applied with propriety and in an artistic manner, it is better that it should be left out altogether, and the article stand in the simple form required by its use. The position which Messrs. Elkington, Mason, & Co. have taken on the present occasion is of such a character as to emphatically demand the attention, as it has certainly secured the approval, of the most inveterate stickler for the perfection of Parisian art in high class metal-work. It must however be confessed that more of this is due to Erench genius than is quite consistent with the full assertion that British talent finds some honour at last, even in that which it would have been no disgrace not to have attempted, since the great mass of the works exhibited are exceptional in their character, and appeal rather to the taste and means of the few, than provide for the wants of the many. In considering the French productions in gold and silver, the transition from the works of Messrs. Elkington to those of Chris- tofle & Co., of Paris, (5052, Empire Franqiis,) is a natural one, since the latter house holds the exclusive right in France of working the original patent of Mi\ G. R. Elkington, and as might be supposed, have found it no light task to preserve the privilege amidst the hosts of competitors by which it is surrounded.* The productions of Messrs. Christofle & Co. are chiefly exhibited in connection with the works of the various Imperial manufactories, already named as being arranged in the rotunda of the panorama ; and certainly the most remarkable service of plate in the Universal Exposition, considered artistically, is that comprising one hundred covers, executed for the Emperor. Without discussing the merits of the whole design, which may in some points be open to excep¬ tion, although the idea is a noble one, since it seeks to symbolise the great cities of France in their connection with Art, science, in¬ dustry, and civil order—the smaller pieces of the service will best repay the examination of the English manufacturer, designer, and artisan. In these we see a perfect adaptation of the form to the use; whilst the decoration is left altogether so subservient to the outline, as to look bald to those who are used to judge of works of this class by a certain standard of variation in the original outline. Here, how¬ ever, these decorations are not impertinences challenging attention by their too positive assertion of themselves ; on the contrary, a classic severity pervades the whole; whilst the ornamentation is of a symbolic character, each piece being decorated with ornaments in low relief, exquisitely modelled and chased. The basis of these ornaments are the vegetables and fruits of the modern table, with flowers occasionally intermingled : often the blossoms of the plants, which suggest the complete ornament. There is a decided origi¬ nality and novelty in both theme and execution ; and the result is, to our minds, as nearly perfect as may be. The plates of the service are of Sevres porcelain, exquisitely painted, and in admi¬ rable keeping with the silver. As may be expected, the figures which form the leading patterns of the larger pieces, centres, and sub-centres, are admirably designed and modelled. The great centre-piece illustrates the Virtues ; and from this the theme, as already indicated, branches off. Here, then, we have a high degree of mental refinement in Art applied to the aesthetics of a dinner- service ; whilst unrivalled technical excellence and skill has been un¬ sparingly employed in rendering the execution worthy of the theme, of the Imperial patron, and of the greatness of the civil, commercial, and industrial glory of France, as based upon science and arts and the social virtues. It is worth a wilderness of the ordinary allegories composed of strange looking gods, and stranger looking goddesses, which have formed the stock subjects, selected from heathendom, for the decoration of the tables of our princes, nobles, and bodies corporate. What a theme the three kingdoms, with the great manufacturing and commercial cities of each, not to speak of the counties, their traditions, and physical peculiarities and products, * It is said that Messrs. Christofle