A CLASSICAL TOUR THROUGH ITALY AND SICILY TENDING TO ItMTSTBATE SOME DISTRICTS, WHICH HAVE NOT BEEN DESCRIBED MR. EUSTACE, IN HIS CLASSICAL TOUR. BY SIR RICHARD COLT HOARE, Bart. Quid enim laboro, nisi ut omm qusestione veritas explicetur? CICERO IN TWO VOLUMES, SECOND EDITION, VOL. I. LONDON: PRINTED FOR J. MAWMAN, 39. LUDGATE STREET. 1819. Printed by T, Miller, Noble Street, Cheaptide, mmvi c£ii*Tai MEMOni^ JOHANNIS CHETWODE EUSTACE CHOROGRAPHIAM ITALICAM, AB EO FELICITER INCHOATAM, SED EHEU! FATIS IMPEDITAM, GRATUS DEDICAT RICARDUS COLT HOARE, ANNO MDCCCXVIII. PREFACE. \ Novelty, pleasure, and information, are the three objects which principally occupy the mind of every traveller who meditates an excursion into foreign countries : of the two former he is certain, and it will be his own fault if he does not reap the latter : but as to the quantity of the crop, much must depend upon himself, and the care he takes in collecting it. We all travel with diffe- rent views : sua cuique voluntas : and each traveller proposes to himself some favourite line of pursuit. Vlll The object particularly pointed out to us in Italy, is the recollection of former times, and a comparison of those times with the present ; to restore to our minds the classical studies of our youth ; to visit those places recorded in history as the residences of illustrious characters of anti- quity, or rendered interesting by historical facts and anecdotes ; to admire and reflect upon those remains of polished architecture and sculpture, which the hand of time has fortunately spared ; and to trace the pro- gress of painting, from the arid schools of Giotto and Cimabue, to the more perfect studies of Raphael, Correggio, and the Caracci. With such views the late lamented au- thor, Mr. Eustace, pursued his course through Italy ; and with such views, I trust. IX many of his countrymen will follow his steps, guided by the itinerary of his travels. With similar views I myself spent five years on the Continent; and I now, with diffi- dence, submit to the public a portion of those travels, extracted from my daily jour- nals. The first routine of every traveller on the Continent is nearly the same ; and the general object (but too often) is to see as much in as short a time as possible. Many persons are indeed restrained, from a want of the necessary time required for viewing things with minuteness and attention ; whilst others are restrained by a want of proper curiosity. The Grand Tour through France, Switzerland, Italy, Ger- many, and Holland, is, in general, as much as the tourist thinks it necessary to under- take and perform : though of late years the spirit of investigation has made a consider- able progress, and the distant shores of Greece and Egypt, as well as the frozen regions of the North, have attracted the at- tention of our British youth. Such was the first tour undertaken by Mr. Eustace in the year 1801 ; and such was my own at a preceding period. Cu- riosity hastened our progress ; nor was our ardour abated till we had examined the wonders of the Imperial City, and revelled in the luxuries of the gay Parthenope. With far different views, my second ex- pedition to the Continent was undertaken, commenced, and terminated. Having gained a sufficient knowledge of the Italian language to enable me to interrogate without XI the aid of an interpreter, I quitted the road for the path, the capitals for the provinces, and proceeded with increased confidence, I and I need not add with increased delight. Whilst the more remote shores of Egypt, Greece, and India are visited and described, it is somewhat singular, that the interior of Italy should remain so little known, and so little frequented. From the native histo- rians alone can we gain that information so necessary to the tourist, who ventures on an unbeaten track. A general description of Italy was much wanted, as a guide both to the old and the young traveller ; none of any repute having been published since the travels of Keysler, Misson, and Nugent ; for I cannot give implicit credit to the tra- vels of Frenchmen, whose vivacity too fre- quently gets the better of fidelity. Xll This deficiency has been very ably sup- plied by Mr. Eustace ; and the literary as well as the travelling world will ever have cause to lament, that he was so suddenly arrested in his earthly career, and that the projects which he had formed for a conti- nuation of his travels were most unfortu- nately terminated by the hand of fate. Had these his plans been accomplished, all additions to his work would have been deemed unnecessary. In the present case, I think it a duty incumbent on me as a traveller, who journeyed with the same classical views as our late lamented author, to fill up those gaps which he has left open. I shall be cautious to avoid making any criticisms or remarks on his very able and judicious work, which has been so justly encouraged and approved ; and I shall be xiii cautious also in not treading over the same ground: but, in some few instances, we must occasionally meet on the same road ; but, above all other considerations, I shall most strictly adhere to fidelity of narrative and description, and endeavour to stick to the text which I have adopted as my motto. Quid enim laboro, nisi ut omni qusestione veritas explicetur? CONTENTS. Journal of a Tour from Siena to the Marem- ma, Volterra, Populonia, Isle of Elba, Piombino, and Grosseto Journey from Rome to Beneventum, on the Appian Way The Journey of Horace from Rome to Brun dusium, on the Appian Way Tour along the Coast of the Bay of Naples to the Island of Capri Tour in the Island of Ischia Tour to Caserta, Venafro, and Isernia .... Excursion from Naples to Cajazzo, Piedi- monte, &c Journey from Naples to Rome on the Via Latina Excursion to Isola and Sora, and to the Con- vents of Casamare and Trisulto ...... Continuation of a Journey on the Via Latina . Excursion from Rome to the Lake of Cela- no, &c. in the Province of Abbruzzo . . . Page 1—76 77—166 167—180 181—209 210—222 223—239 240—244 245—288 289—305 306—327 328—339 A CLASSICAL TOUR THROUGH ITALY. Journal of a Tour from Siena to the Maremma^ Volterra, Populonia, Isle of Tlba, Fiomhinoy and Grosseto. COR MAGIS TIBI SENA PANDIT. Such are the cordial words with which the tra- veller is greeted, on entering the city gates of Siena ; and, if I may be allowed to judge' by my own particular feelings, he will have no reason to repent of a residence in that city. In many respects Siena has claims superior to any other town in Italy, particularly as an eligible summer residence. Its situation amongst the Apennines is airy and healthy ; the heat of its climate, even in the midst of summer, is not oppressive: its society is agree- able and unaffected ; and the purity of its language VOL. V. B CLASSICAL TOUR <2 and accent is generally allowed to surpass that of any other province. It becomes, therefore, a most desirable residence for those who wish to be in- structed in the language of the country, and who are desirous of avoiding the oppressive heats of Florence, the pestilential vapours of the Cam- pagna, and the rnusquitos of Naples. As a school of early painting, Siena disputes precedency with Florence; and Guido da Siena, who was bora in 1191, and who has left a paint- ing in the church of S. Domenico, with the date of 12!21, seems to bear away the palm of priority from Cimabue, whose birth is stated to have been in the year 1240. Many excellent specimen^ of early fresco paint- ings are dispersed about the city, especially one of Christ by Sodoma, in which there is a dignity of character, added to an humility most truly appro- priate. But the object most worthy of the travellers notice at Siena is the Cathedral, which, as far as regards its pavement, may be deemed unique. The following minute account of it, extracted from the Diario Senese by Gigli, and the Lettere Senesi by Della Valle, may prove interesting to my readers. THROUGH ITALY. 3 The DuomOf or cathedral church, claims par- ticular attention, as one of the finest buildings in Italy ; and a slight sketch of its history may not, therefore, be unacceptable. This metropolitan church occupies the site of a Heathen temple, de- dicated to the goddess Minerva. It was conse- crated for the Christian worship by Pope Alexan- der the Third, in 1]69. In 1250, the choir was faced with black and white marble, and in the suc- ceeding year the rest of the edifice. The marble pulpit was erected in 19,66 ; and in 12S4, the ta- Ipade towards the Hospital, executed, after the design of Nicolo da Pisa, by the three sculptors Lapo, Donato, and Goro, who on that account were declared citizens of Siena. Duccio of Siena began the picture for the high altar, and completed it in 1310, having received sixteen soldi a day for his labour. This picture now stands by the side of the altar St. Ansano, and is coloured on the back. In 1333, the marble facade was perfected, and adorned with various devices. In 1338, at a period when the population of Siena amounted to one hundred thousand souls, the inhabitants began to enlarge their cathedral ; but the fatal mortality of 1348 put a stop to their works, and the funds which had been raised for the execution were ap- plied to other purposes more necessary. The par- ticular curiosity, of which this church may justly boast, is its elegant mosaic pavement. Duccio of 4 CLASSICAL TOUR Siena, in 1350, began that part of it, which is be- neath the altar of St.Ansano. In 1424, the pave- ment under the three steps of the high altar, re- presenting David, Sampson, Moses, Judas Macca- beus, and Joshua, was completed ^ and forty years afterwards Matteo da Siena proceeded to embellish the part under the altar, of the cruciBx, with the history of the martyrdom of the Innocents. The twelve sybills were added in 1483; and in 1500, Domenico Beccafumi, alias Mecarino, completed this magnificent pavement, by executing the middle part, next the pulpit. Many other interesting particulars, respecting the paintings and decorations of this cathedral, may be collected from the Diario Senese, by Gigli, and the Lettere Senesi, by Della Valle ; from whom I have drawn the preceding account of this most beautiful work in mosaic. The style differs entirely from that adopted by the Greeks and Romans, who invariably used small square iesserce, of vari- ous colours ; whereas these at Siena are large pieces of marble artfully inlaid, and resemble, in effect, drawings in black and white chalk. This exquisite work is held in proper estimation by the curatores of the church, is kept covered with planks, and displayed only on particular occasions. A beautiful and perfect portion is to be seen under the bishop’s pulpit. THROUGH ITALY. 5 Siena was formerly a Roman colony, distin- guished by the title of Sena Julia, and it still bears for its arms the device of Romulus and Re- mus suckled by a wolf, several of which are sculptured on pedestals in different parts of the city. For many successive years it continued to enjoy its independence and republican honours. About the year 1541, it became a prey to the foreign factions of France and Spain, which at that period disturbed the tranquillity of Italy. In 1 554, it was ceded by the Emperor Charles the Fifth to his son Philip, who, in the following year relinquished it to Cosmo the First, Grand Duke of Tuscany, and since that period it has con- tinued a part of the Tuscan dominions. Having briefly described the principal features of this city, and whose immediate environs will furnish a variety of good subjects for the pencil, I shall now introduce my readers into a country highly celebrated in the annals of ancient history, and once inhabited by the civilized Etruscan nation, from whose downfal Imperial Rome derived her growing strength and exalted prosperity : but though at present neglected and depopulated, Etruria will still afford to the antiquary and his- torian matter for observation and reflection, and many interesting memorials still remain to attest its former existence and rude magnificence. 6 CLASSICAL TOUR My winter had been spent partly at Siena and partly at Forence. But the approach of spring, which in Italy is the most delightful season of the year, roused me from the abodes of ease and dis- sipation, and summoned me to the field in search of new scenery and fresh information. Novelty has always charms, and to none more than to my- self. Hence in all my peregrinations I have been anxious to visit districts little known and unex- plored by modern travellers. At this time I resolved to penetrate into the country inhabited by the ancient Etrurians, a people, whose language, and even whose alphabet, have baffled the re- searches of the scholar and antiquary ; a people, whose territory was separated from the city of Rome only by the Tiber ; from whom the Romans borrowed many an useful art and valuable science ; and whose downfal opened the way to that career of glory, which finally rendered their conquerors masters of the world. Sunday, April I9. I quitted Siena, and for ten miles followed the great road to Florence. I then turned to the left, and proceeded along that leading to Colie, partly through a wood of ever- green oaks, which here overspreads the moun- tains to the left. The road was good, and within three hours I performed the journey in my phaeton. THROUGH ITALY. 7 Colie, though a small town, is the see of a bishop, and built partly on an eminence, partly in a plain. It is divided into the upper and lower, alta e bassa. The approach is rendered picturesque by a fine bridge of one arch, considerably broad and lofty. It is thrown over the river Elsa, which rises at a few miles distance, and flowing by Pog- gibonsi and Castel Fiorentino, falls into the Arno at the Ponte d’Elsa, beyond Empoli. In the rock and walls adjoining the bridge the water has already worn several cavities, which must prove dangerous to the structure itself, without a speedy remedy. Colle is remarkable for its manufacture of paper, for which there are thirty mills employed in the town and neighbourhood. In the church of St. Agostino is a good picture by Ludovico Cigoli, who is called the Florentine Correggio : it represents Christ taken down from the Cross ; the figure of St. Jerome, which is in- troduced on the left, is a very fine portrait. Near the town is a well, formed apparently of ancient sculpture, though not remarkable for excellence, On the four sides are basso relievos, representing, 1. Ploughing with oxen. 2. Threshing of com. 3. A vintage. 4. Making wine. It is near the house of Agostino Giugni, where I was tolerably lodged. A new hospital is building at Colle, on a 8 CLASSICAL TOTIR scale sufficiently large to contain an hundred and twenty persons. Monday, April 20. After dinner I left Colle, and took leave of my carriage. The environs are well cultivated ; but as I proceeded, the country became wild, woody, and barren. The road in general is ill paved, and very hilly. To Volterra the ascent is long and steep. I was five hours on my journey, in consequence of the badness of the road, the slowness iX^ith which I was obliged to travel on account of my baggage horse, and a violent thunder storm which caught me on my route. VoLTERtiA, in point of situation, is perhaps the most elevated town of residence in Italy. It occupies a species of plain, on the summit of a mountain. This was likewise the site of the ancient town, which is accurately described by Strabo.* There was, however, a great variation as to size; for the ancient walls embraced a * Volaterranus ager mari alluitur; hoc autem modo aedi- ficatum est oppidum. In profundi, valle sublimis et praeceps undique collis extat, cujus in vertice planities est, in hac sita ipsius sunt urbis maenia, ad quam stad. xv. ascensus est ex basi j rupes tota ardua atque diflicilis est. — Strabo, THROUGH ITALY. 9 circuit of seven miles, while the modern comprise but three. Although a considerable difference of opinion has existed among antiquaries respecting the twelve towns of Etruria, Volterra has been ge- nerally estimated as one. The place it occupies in history, and the numerous fragments of antiquity found in its neighbourhood, authenticated by Etruscan characters, admit little doubt respecting its right to this distinction. Of the few remains of Etruscan architecture the most remarkable are, the Porta dell Arco, the Piscina, supposed to have been originally a reser- voir of water, and the walls, which are still easily traced. The two first are very perfect. From the present fortress I descended through different apertures to the Piscina. It is divided into three apartments, and is the most perfect specimen of Etruscan workmanship now existing at Volterra. Exact admeasurements of it are given in a work lately published, by the Abbate Giachi (p^'^c ]2i 2*). This gentleman was not only ray guide on the occasion, but also shewed me the most interesting objects in the town and its vici- nity. If we may judge from the size of the stones * Saggio di ricerche sopra lo stato antico e moderno di Volterra, opera del sacerdote Antonio Filippo Giachi^ 4tb. Firenze, 1786. 10 CLASSICAL TOUR employed in the walls and other buildings, the ar- chitecture of the Etruscans was simple and bold : and their knowledge of mechanics very great. From them was probably derived the present Tus- can or rustic style. In consistence and solidity it bears the character of their works, as may be seen by many examples at Florence. If we may estimate the perfection of the Etrus- can sculpture, from the numerous basso relievos on the sarcophagi found in this neighbourhood, we cannot ascribe to it any very high degree of merit ; for though abundant specimens are pr^pserved in the museums, few are executed with skill, or knowledge of the art. But perhaps this may be deemed a partial judgment. Sepulchral monu- ments were probably kept ready fabricated, by sculptors, to supply the constant demand; and consequently we cannot expect them to exhibit great variety of subjects, or delicacy of finishing. The forms of their vases were equally perfect and elegant. Different parts of Etruria were distin- guished for their manufactories of pottery and earthenware. The ware of Arezzo, which was the most celebrated, was red. That of Chiusi differed from the ware manufactured at Volterra, which was very light, covered with a shining black var- nish, and decorated with basso relievos, and other ornaments, as well executed as if in bronze. From THROUGH ITALY. 11 the numerous sepulchres, or ipogei, discovered without the ancient walls, particularly on the hills of Pottone and Monte Bradone, have been drawn the valuable specimens of Etruscan workmanship, which enrich the dilfelrent museums of Europe. But, notwithstanding the number thus sold and dispersed, an extensive collection still remains in the modern Volterra. The principal is that of the Palazzo Publico, which has been much augmented by the addition of the celebrated Guarnacci mu- seum and library. It is almost completely dis- posed in several apartments, and both collections are entrusted to the superintendance of a librarian. An elegant mosaic pavement, found near the an- cient theatre, is now lying in one of the rooms. In the forms of the sarcophagi there is little va- riety, and the same subjects frequently recur. They are mostly drawn from fabulous bistory, and many from Homer, alluding to the heathen mythology. Some have been gilt, others painted, and the most valuable are inscribed with Etruscan characters. A reposing figure generally forms the lid or cover of the sarcophagus. Many of these are remark- able for the bad proportions of the head and limbs : and, indeed, as I have before observed, few exhibit any excellence in sculpture. In the Giorgi palace is another collection. One fragment is singular. It represents Poly- 12 CLASSICAL TOUR phemus, with two eyes, in the act of raising a rock, to hurl at Ulysses and his companions, who are sailing away in their vessel. This novelty, which may perhaps be ascribed to the inadvertence of the workman, has caused much literary discus- sion, and given birth to a learned treatise. The figure of Polyphemus is well sculptured. At the Badia is a small collection, chiefly con- sisting of vases found in its neighbourhood, many of which are very elegant in form. Here is also a fine Scarabee of Etruscan sculpture. In the Casa Guarnacci is a celebrated statue of Hercules, by Glycon of Athens, whose name ap- pears on the pedestal. The h;gs, arms, feet, and lower part of the belly, are in the exquisite style of Grecian sculpture; the muscles strongly marked, and characteristic of the hero and the deity. The head and breast are inferior in every respect. The head appears antique, but from the style and its diminutive proportions, compared with the body, it certainly could not have originally be- longed to the torso. Among the numerous ipogei, which have been discovered, few remain now open ; for after they were ransacked, the entrances were again closed. Still, however, the zealous investigator of antiqui- THROUGH ITALY. 13 ties may fully gratify his curiosity in visiting two which are yet perfect. These are on the CoUe del Portone, adjoining the Villa Inghirami. One is called Le Buche del Saracini. It is very spaci- ous, but so low, that I could traverse it only on my knees. From its size and construction, it was probably a public burying-place. The ipogeo, be- longing to the same villa, is different in structure, much higher, and divided into apartments. Seve- ral fragments of alabaster sarcophagi, &c. are still left, in order to give an idea of one of these sepul- chres when discovered ; for none remain in their antique or original state, having beien opened, and perhaps robbed of their most valuable contents, by the barbarians who invaded Italy. The Terme, or baths, of which the form, the pipes for conveying steam or vapour, and some fragments of the ancient mosaic pavements, aie still seen, appear to have been of Roman construc- tion. The figure ol the theatre, or amphitheatre, may also be traced at Vallebuona. Columns and other relics have been dug up in the vicinity. A cornice of the composite order, discovered here, and supposed to have belonged to the theatre, is obviously of Roman workmanship. But as there were other public buildings adjoining, par- ticularly the baths, in which was found the mosaic pavement, now in the Palazzo Publico, we cannot 14 CLASSICAL TOUR decisively conclude to what structure such a frag- ment belonged. The site of what is called the theatre has never been properly searched, so that little can be said respecting its original destination. The Casa di Marmi at Portone, which is de- scribed by Targioni, in his Travels through Italy, as entirely built with the fragments of old sarco- phagi, no longer exists in the same state, if it ever really did exist, according to his description. But of this I much doubt, for in the whole fabric I discovered only two pieces of alabaster. So much for antiquities. As to the produc- tions of modern art, little can be expected in a small provincial town. The palaces of the Inghirami, Giorgi, Riccia- relli, and Mazzoni families contain the best pic- tures in Volterra. In the Casa Ricciarelli, which formerly boasted of the Murder of the Innocents, a fine picture by Daniel di Volterra, is another of Elias, ascribed to the same painter ; but of this I entertain a doubt. In the Casa Mazzoni is a small gallery, painted by Daniel di Volterra. The other pictures are neither worthy the notice of the ama- teur, nor of the indifferent spectator. Some good works of the Florentine school are THROUGH ITALY, 15 to be found in the churches. In St. Dalmazia, a Deposition from the Cross, by Roselli, scholar of Daniel di Volterra : this picture is soon to be removed to the ducal gallery at Florence. In St. Chiara, an altar-piece, by Franceschini, allowed to be his best work. The hgure of St. J ohn is very fine. After finishing this picture, he repaired to Rome to study; and on his return, reviewing it, he was so satisfied as to exclaim, Tu sei Bella ! “ Thou art indeed fine !” In the Duomo is an ex- cellent copy of the Magdalen, which graces the Barberini palace at Rome : it was retouched by Guido himself. The sacristy contains a good pic- ture by Naldini : the figure of a young man in the fore ground displays great merit. The Capella Inghirami is painted in fresco, by Giovanni di St. Giovanni. Its altar-piece is by Domenichino, and represents the fall of Saul. In the Badia are two pictures by Victor, one of which is the Deposition from the Cross, in the style of Andrea del Sarto. Also, one in the church, by Mascagna; and a Supper in the Refectory, by the same hand. The sacristy contains a fresco, by Franceschini. The churches of St. Giusto and St. Agostino are hand- some buildings. Near St. Giusto are seen the remains of the ancient church of the same name, which fell to ruin by the sinking of the ground. Similar phenomena are daily seen at a place called Le Baize. 16 ’ CLASSICAL TOUR The prison or dungeon, called II Mastio, me- rits a Tislt. The lower cells are completely hor- rible. In one of these the Conte Felicini was im- mured fifteen years. The bricks are worn where he was accustomed to walk. On seeing these re- ceptacles, the present Grand Duke exclaimed that they were not sufficiently horrible for hell, but too horrible for a prison. Poco pei' V inferno ; md troppo per prigione. Since that time no one has been confined in them. This prison was erected in the time of Cosmo de Medici ; and being situated on the most elevated ground, it commands the noblest view of the surrounding country, while it forms the best and principal object at a distance. A number of workmen are here employed in making vases and other ornaments of alabaster. I saw few which were well executed ; and none like those of Pisan i at Florence, copied from the exquisite antique specimens with which the coun- try abounds. I formed many acquaintances at Volterra, and spent the interval of my stay very agreeably. I was lodged in the house of my friend Marcello Inghirami. Thursday, April 23. We departed together in the afternoon for the Pomarancie, where he pos- THROUGH ITALY. 17 sesses a villa. In our way we visited the old and new salt works, which not only supply Tuscany, but other parts, with that commodity. The new works are built on a good plan, but the springs are con- ducted thither from the old works. From the badness of the air, and the mortality it causes, they are called Le Mole. Between Volterra and Le Mole the soil is barren and chalky, resembling that bordering the road to Rome near Siena ; but in the vicinity of Le Mole, the country again be- comes woody. Friday, April 24. I took leave of my friend Marcello, and quitted Pomarancie, to approach the sea coast. From the badness of the roads I was unable to proceed beyond Sughereto, a little village environed on three sides by an amphitheatre of woods, and on the fourth open to an extensive plain. Four miles from Pomarancie are the for- nacl of Monte Carboli ; sulphureous springs, which occupy a large space in a wide and desolate plain. These springs emit immense volumes of smoke, and boiling water to a considerable height, with a bubbling or hissing noise, and a strong smell of sulphur and bitumen. The waters unite, and form a brook possessing the same qualities. I observed very little appearance of sulphur deposited on the edge of the springs. On the road are two similar fornacl ; those of Sasso, on the left seem consider- VOL. V. c 18 CLASSICAL TOUR able, the others on the right trifling. In a thick wood on the side of the road is a small spring, which bubbles and is agitated as if boiling ; but the water is cold. For seven or eight miles the road led along the bed of the river Cornia, the banks of which are feathered with beautiful groves of the oak and ilex. The whole face of the country is woody, and indeed for many miles a continued forest. The air is bad, and in consequence the population scanty. We could not find even a house to shel- ter us for the distance of twenty miles, between Le Pomarancie and Sughereto. It must be confessed that the Maremma miles are of an unusual length ; for the whole day, from half past seven to half past four, was spent in traversing that space. The country is stony with- out any regular track, so that the assistance of a guide is indispensable. Approaching Sughereto, vegetation becomes more abundant, and various delicate shrubs, such as myrtles, pomegranate^, &c. bespeak the mild- ness of the climate. Before I reached Monte Cerboli, I descried to the left a castle on the summit of a high mountain, called Rocca Sillana, I was informed that it is a mile in circumference. THROUGH ITALY. 19 From the name it may possibly have been a fortress, erected in the time of Sylla, who establish- ed colonies in Tuscany. Volterra, though situated on so elevated a spot, abounds with springs of fresh water ; there is also one impregnated with some mineral. At Sughereto I found a little osteria^ a civil and obliging host, and a decent supper and bed. Saturday, April 25. From Sughereto I pro- ceeded through the plain to Populonia. Here I observed a striking difference in fertility between the Maremma and the country I had left. The crops of corn were rich, and vegetation consider- ably more advanced. Here the oaks were almost in full foliage, whereas in other parts they were just budding. To the right I left Carnpiglia, situated on an eminence, and soon after reached the iron mines at the Caldane. These are singular, and deserve notice from the nature of the water which supplies them. It is collected in a kind of lake or reservoir, and is so clear that I could see the bottom. The whole body of water is warm, the springs which enter the lake, and the springs which is^he from it, are equally so, and preserve their temperature throughout. These were probably the streams described by Pliny as rising near the 20 CLASSICAL TOUR ancient city of Vetulonia. He observes that fish lived in them ; and the same remark was made on these by an inhabitant of the place. The descrip- tion of the ruins of Vetulonia, not far distant, as given by Leandro Alberti, induced me to make many inquiries respecting them, but in vain. After an hour’s delay I proceeded to Populonia, which is situated on an eminence, and appears at a considerable distance. The road thither is very good, and leads through an extensive plain. This stage is computed at ten miles only; but those who follow my track will deem the computation very erroneous. Having dined at the villa of the Cavalieri Desideri, who are proprietors of the whole adja- cent country, I pursued my road from Populonia towards Piombino, the wretched capital of a princi- pality, to which it gives name. The prince or sovereign, Ludovizi Compagno, resides at Rome, and is the owner of the noble villa Ludovizi, so rich in fine statues and paintings. Had I not obtained an asylum in the house of an acquaintance, Cavalieri Falchi, I should have fared sadly ; perhaps I should not have found even a bed. Nature has supplied these parts of Italy with the advantages of a rich soil, and good ports. THROUGH ITALY. 21 adapted for commerce ; but her gifts are rendered nugatory by the badness of the air and the conse- quent want of population. ISLAND OF ELBA. Sunday, April 26. At seven o’clock I em- barked on board the felucca, which sails on Sun- days and Thursdays to the Isle of Elba ; and with little or no wind completed the passage in three hours. I landed at Rio, and walked to the town of the same name, about two miles up the coun- try. Its situation, at the foot of lofty mountains, is picturesque, and resembles that of some of the places which I saw in Switzerland. The popula- tion, amounting to tWo thousand souls, is very large for so inconsiderable a place. I was recom- mended to Signor Pellegrini, who gave me as good a lodging as his house and the circumstances of the town afforded. After dinner I walked to an eminence two miles distant, which is surmounted with the ruins of an ancient castle, called Torre, di Giove, and said to have been destroyed by the celebrated Barbarossa. The approach is through a thick grove of ilex, and the spot itself commands a noble and extensive view of the adjacent coast and sea. Monday, April 27. Went by land to Porto i 2*2 CLASSICAL TOUR Ferrajo, distant three miles. In the way I crossed an arm of the sea, two miles wide. There is an- other land road, but considerably longer. I passed the fortress of Volterrajo, situated on a lofty rock, and forming an object highly picturesque. The surrounding mountains abound with a great variety of odoriferous plants, mostly of the kinds which in England are carefully preserved in green-houses : they were now in full bloom and beauty, and for the greater part of my ride I almost fancied my- self in a flower garden, where the sight and smell were equally gratified. With a brisk gale I crossed over to Porto Ferrajo, in less than a quarter of an hour ; and after the form, required from all stran- gers, of giving my name to the officer on guard, I went to examine the few objects in the town which merit attention. Porto Ferrajo belongs to the Grand Duke of Tuscany, and in regard to situation, neatness, and construction, it surpassed the expectations I had conceived of what was to be seen in the island. It is commanded by two lofty forts, II Falcone and La Stella; and a new light-house is now building. From these two forts, particularly from the first, the eye is gratified with the finest views of the port, adjacent coast, and country. The approach to the harbour and its entrance are picturesque. The houses are built on the declivity of a hillj 1 THROUGH ITALY. 23 forining 3. species of ainpliithefttre » &nd tlie hai- hour is shut up with a chain, which opens to admit vessels. The interior of the town is neat ; it con- tains the only inn in the island, which is good, if I may judge from the few hours I remained there. The forts are kept in proper order ; and, as a cor- poral quaintly observed, want only men, arms, and provisions, to render them strong. They must have been constructed at a vast expense, and one face in particular is formed by a perpendicular cut in the rock of great height. Here are two cannon, remarkably fine, cast by Cosmo Cennini Fiorentino, who founded two others at the same time, which are still preserved at Leghorn. After dinner I left Porto Ferrajo, and crossed to a place opposite, called Le Gfotte. Here are the ruins of a vast building, situated on an emi- nence. The subterraneous vaults, from which it derives its name, still exist in a perfect state. These are generally arched, the exterior constructed with stone, like the opus reticulatum of the Ro- mans, and the sides, roof, and floor, coated with cement or stucco. As I had never before found any mention of these ruins, and have hitherto obtained no information respecting them in the island, I shall not hazard an opinion respecting the purpose for which they were intended. 24 CLASSICAL TOUR Returning to the place where I had left mv horses, I took a different road hack to Rio. For some time I followed the line of coast, and then penetrated into the mountains, opposite the fortress of Volterrajo, which on all sides rears its crested head above the neighbouring heights, and forms a striking object for the painter. Those who love the savage and unadorned features of nature, may indeed fully gratify their curiosity by exploring this rugged and mountainous tract. Tuesday, April 28. I employed the morning in viewing the iron mines of Rio, which were no less celebrated for their astonishing richness in ancient, than they are in modern, times. Of the Island of Elba, Virgil observes. Insula inexhaustis chalybum geuerosa metaliis : and many other writers have re-echoed the ex- pression. In working the mines, several caverns have been discovered, which were excavated by the ancients. One is open, and the marks of their tools may still be traced on the rock. Another is closed, which, as I was informed, extended near a quarter of a mile in length. The present mode of working is easier, the galleries being open to the air, and not under ground. A vast mountain seems THROUGH ITALY. 25 to be almost entirely formed of iron ore, which in general is of the richest and most productive kind. At the extremity of the gallery, now open, the ore becomes bad, which is apparently the reason why it was left in its present state. Either new veins of metal must have been formed, or the ground must have fallen in considerably before its mouth ; for it was accidentally discovered three years ago by the miners who wrought their way into it. About two hundred and twenty men and boys are employed in these works, and about forty asses. Both the ore and rubbish are conveyed in carts, each driven with great rapidity by two men. Good specimens from these mines are eagerly col- lected by all lovers of natural history, for the beau- tiful brilliancy of the colours. At present, how- ever, these are found in less abundance than for- merly, and in fact are no longer to be discovered, except by the greatest chance. The masses of ore are generally detached by the force of gunpowder, and during my stay I witnesed two or three ex- plosions. Adjoining the mines the soil is red, with a mixture of yellow ochre. As there is not a sufficient supply of water to give motion to the usual machinery of a foundry, the ore is conveyed out of the island to be smelted. The foundries, belonging to the Prince of Piombino, are at Fol- lonica, on the opposite coast, and at Cornia near Sngheieto. According to the accounts of several 26 CLASSICAL TOUR authors, the same method was adopted in ancient times. After dinner, I rode to Capo Gastello, on the north-eastern part of the island, where on an emi- nence are seen the ruins of what is called the Palazzo della Regina delC Elba. Who this queen was, we have yet to learn. At all events the ruins indicate that the fabric was large, though not so extensive as that opposite Porto Ferrajo, called Le Grotte. From a comparison of the two ruins, I am inclined to think the original fabrics were erected about the same period, and possibly for a similar pur- pose. Here are three vaulted apartments remain- ing, coated with stucco, and resembling those of Le Grotte. About half a mile distant are the remains of an old chureh, St. Miniato, near which many antiquities, but not of a remote date, have been found. From what I have observed, I think myself justified in concluding, that the situation of the towns and villages has undergone a change. St. Catarina, near Rio, for example, seems to have been the site of the old town ; as also Le Grotte^ instead of Porto Ferrajo. Capo Gastello, also, was apparently once inhabited, though at present only a few scattered habitations are found along the coast. In my return I traversed another part of the beautiful grove of ilex which sweeps round the height crowned by the Torre di Gi&ve. The beauty THROUGH ITALY. 27 of this natural plantation is scarcely paralleled; the trees are full grown, and of great height ; and the underwood consists of an intermixture of the myrtle, philerea, laurustinus, heath, &c. Wednesday, April 29- In my way to Porto Ferrajo, I traversed the romantic rocks under the fortress of Volterrajo. This pass is called Li Strettij or the streights. As I could not find a boat on the shore, I pursued a more circuitous road on horseback. It winds round a spacious bay, and is more tedious than the other, but it afforded me the opportunity of seeing the coast in another point of view, and of visiting the old and new salt works. The sea water is received in re- servoirs, and the salt crystallised by the heat of the sun only : the produce of the works is consi- derable. By land the entrance to Porto Ferrajo presents only a line of fortifications, interspersed with draw-bridges, and other appendages of de- fence. I found the whole town zealously engaged in functions, to the honour of their patron saint. Thursday, April 30. The morning proving rainy, I was detained at Porto Ferrajo till half- past two. I then proceeded, and on leaving the plain of Porto Ferrajo, which is two miles wide, and finely cultivated, I began to ascend the mountains, amidst a thick brushwood of heaths, myrtles, and 28 CLASSICAL TOUR other evergreens. Passing by the Tonnara, or tunny fishery, belonging to the Prince of Piombino, I soon reached the port of Marciana. Here I ob- served several vessels on the stocks. Marciana is situated in a little plain, between the coast and the mountains, which is well cultivated, and laid out in vineyards. The ascent to the village is steep, and it is embosomed in a thick grove of chesnut trees. As I was not provided with letters of re- commendation, I was obliged to betake myself to the osteria, where I found a clean bed, and a frugal, though wholesome repast, Castaneae niolles et presai copia lactis, with a bottle of excellent Muscat wine. Friday, May 1. Rose at day^break, and as- cended a mile up the mountain, to enjoy a fine view from a little church called Madonna del Monte, but a thick fog obliged me to return disappointed to my inn. These mountains are the loftiest in the island, and their summits are seldom free from clouds. After breakfast I proceeded through Poggio, a little village, at a short distance, and, like Marciana, situated on an eminence, surrounded with a grove of chesnuts. Some rivulets rolling down the rocks, amidst these bowers of venerable trees, pre- sented picturesque scenes. Emerging from the THROUGFI ITALY. groves, the same mountains meet the eye, clothed with heaths, &c. but as I proceeded they became more stony. From the summit of this chain, the whole breadth of the island is seen, and a view caught of both seas. St. Ilario and St. Piero, are two little towns, near each other, and not far distant from the sea shore. Having letters of recommendation to per- sons at both places, I preferred St. Piero, as nearer the places which attracted my attention in this part of the island. The Arciprete Dini received me with that hospitality which is so acceptable and indeed necessary to strangers, who travel in a country where money cannot procure even a lodg- ing. After dinner I visited the object which had principally drawn me hither, the quarries of granite at Seccheto, about three miles from St. Piero. The country is stony and barren, and the roads bad. These mountains seem to have been much fre- quented on all sides in former times. I observed numerous columns and fragments, in different states of preservation. Three columns of large dimensions remained perfect, on one of which I observed the traces of an inscription, but so de- faced as to be totally illegible. Also a block of granite, evidently designed for a vase, such as the Romans used to ornament their fountains, and of which several are still preserved in different parts 30 CLASSICAL TOUR of Italy, particularly at Rome and Florence. A part of the inside is hollowed out, and the forms of the two handles appear, but it was left un- finished. In the bed of the present rivulet is a ponderous block, on which a large circle is cut, but for wdiat purpose I cannot divine ; the dimen- sions being on so great a scale. Perhaps it was likewise intended for a vase, as there is another circle traced within the larger. The mass itself remains united with the solid rock ; though a nar- row cavity, following the form of the circle, shews that an attempt to detach it was begun. I pre- served the dimensions of these different fragments. The vase first mentioned, called La Na^e, is about six feet nine inches in diameter, the circle about sixteen feet six inches : the columns, two of which are similar, in respect to proportions, are about twenty-five feet in length, and in circumference nearly fourteen, English measure. Numerous co- lumns are scattered over the whole declivity of the mountain, down to the sea shore : a proof that these quarries were much wrought. When I con- sider the number of columns still entire in many parts of Italy, those which have been mutilated by the hands of the barbarians of former times, and the statuaries of the present, and the still greater number buried in the earth ; I cannot re- frain from thinking, that Egypt alone did not supply the countless ornaments of this kind, which THROUGH ITALY. SI the Romans lavished on their public and private buildings, but that they resorted to the quarries of Seccheto. It is still more probable, from the vi- cinity of Elba to the coast of Tuscany, that the noble columns in the Duomo at Pisa, which are regarded as Egyptian, were rather drawn from this island. The clearness of the atmosphere enabled me to catch a pleasing view of the coast and adjacent isles. The nearest of these is Pianosa, formerly called Planasia, and mentioned as an island appro- priated to exiles ; Insula exulibus sedes consueta, nam Augustus Agrippam ed relegavit*. It is dis- tant from Elba about ten miles, and differs from the many isles with which these seas are sprinkled, being entirely flat. I was nearly induced to visit it ; but the fear of being discovered, and obliged to perform some days quarantine, deterred me from the attempt. It was wasted by Barbarossa, and for many years remained uncultivated. Lately, however, the inhabitants of St. Piero and St. Ila- rio have sown a considerable quantity of corn there, which is in the most flourishing state ; and two or three hundred people will soon pass over * How little did I think, that, in the year 1814, the larger island of ^Ethalia, or Elba, would be appropriated to the same purpose. CLASSICAL TOUR 32 to cut and collect the harvest. The air is so pure, that the island is often recommended as a residence to invalids, and generally with a good effect. There are very few springs of fresh water, and indeed only one which can be called abundant: to reach it a cut has been made in the solid rock, probably by the ancients. Several subterraneous vaults and grottos have been discovered, which are ascribed to them, and some are vulgarly termed prisons. The castle remains ; and the outside walls of a town. A supposition that the Turks sometimes land here, has occasioned the regu- lation with respect to quarantine ; and as the court of Spain will not dispense with this pre- caution, the Prince cannot remove so great an im- pediment to the commerce and cultivation of the island. The next island is Monte Christi, unin- habited, and consisting entirely of rocks and pre- cipices. As it contains an excellent spring, ships often touch there to water. Saturday, May 2. At break of day I took leave of the hospitable priest, and walked down to the sea coast, where I found my felucca ready. My reason for leaving the horses, and proceeding by sea, was to avoid a tedious and rugged road over the mountains. In two hours, with the advantage of a fresh wind, I reached Punt a della Calamita, or the loadstone point, so THROUGH ITALY. 33 called from the loadstone rocks found there. — Large veins of this substance are intermixed with iron ore ; and from the verdigrease which tinctures some of the strata^ I imagine there is also a por- tion of copper. On the same spot is a yellowish earth, much in request, and exported in great quantities to Leghorn. The rocks and soil on this point of land appear to be wonderfully rich in natural productions. I disembarked at the Madonna ddle Grazk^ and Avalked up to the village of Capo Livere, where I found my Rio host, Pellegrini. The pos- sessions of this community are reckoned the best in the island, and the inhabitants the poorest. Its situation commands an extensive view of the coast, Porto Ferrajo, and Porto Lungone. The last place is two miles and a half distant, on the road to Rio. It belongs to Spain, and, next to Porto Ferrajo, is the most considerable in the island. For some years it was held by the court of Naples, and a strong garrison kept there. The inhabitants are few, in comparison with the mili- tary, It is situated on an eminence, and strongly fortified. So uncomfortable is the life of the sol- diery, and their treatment so hard, that numbers desert. A single anecdote will prove the hard- ships they undergo. A soldier deserted, and was taken at Porto Ferrajo. When brought before a magistrate to be delivered to the Neapolitan ofh- VOL. V. D 34 CLASSICAL TOUR cers, he acknowledged that he had committed a murder in Tuscany ; and alleged as a reason for this voluntary confession, that he had rather serve as a galley slave in Tuscany, than as a soldier at Porto Lungone. Quitting the direct road to Rio, I turned to the left to visit the Hermitage of Monserrato, situated in a deep recess, amidst barren and lofty mountains, which present many picturesque points of view. It probably borrowed its name from the celebrated convent of Monserrato, near Barce- lona, which it resembles in regard to its posi- tion, amidst a cluster of conical mountains. To survey as much as possible of the island with the advantage of a clear and tranquil atmosphere, I ascended a steep and rugged path, behind the Hermitage, to the summit of the impending moun- tains. Arriving at a spot called Sassi Tedeschi^l enjoyed one of the noblest views in nature. I saw almost the whole island expanded beneath, and traced in a map the route which I had lately travers- ed. I discovered every town and village in the island, namely, Rio and its port, Porto Ferrajo, Marciana, and Poggio, St. Ilario and St. Piero, Capo Livere, Porto Lungone, the Torre di Giove, and the for- tress of Volterrajo. I descried also the islands of Pianosa, Corsica, Capraia, Monte Christi, Monte Cerboli, Palmajola and Gorgona, Monte Argen- taro, the coast of Castiglione, Populonia, and Leg- THROUGH ITALY. 35 born. Few countries, I believe, can boast of so varied, so extensive, and so interesting a prospect. To me it was peculiarly grateful to catch at a single glance, and in one grand assemblage, all the marked and striking features of the delightful and majestic scenery which I had surveyed in detail. I returned by moonlight to my former abode at Rio, equally pleased and satisfied with my expe- dition round the island. Sunday, May 3 . I revisited the mountains, and derived new pleasure from a review of the wonderful prospect around, which I had been be_ fore compelled to quit by the approach of night. After dinner I paid another visit to the Hermitage of Mouserrato, and discovered many romantic scenes which yesterday had escaped my notice. Monday, May 4. I employed myself in exa- mining the environs of Rio, Ortano, St. Catarina, &c. which present nothing worthy of particular at- tention. At my return in the morning a busy scene presented itself on the sea coast. This was the operation of weighing and loading a vessel with iron ore. This is done with incredible agility and expedition by men and boys, who convey the ore on their shoulders in small baskets, along a species of path, formed with planks, from the place where it is deposited to the vessel. 36 CLASSICAL TOUR My tour through the Isle of Elba is now completed. The novelty of the scenes which it presented, and the variety of information which I was enabled to collect during my stay, rendered it highly interesting, and contributed to soothe the sense of those difficulties, discomforts, and wants, to which a traveller must naturally be exposed, in a spot so remote and little frequented. Before I take my leave, I have now only to mention a few particulars relative to the country and its inhabi- tants in general. The Island of Elba was by the Greeks called JEthalia, and afterwards Ilva. In ancient as well as in modern times, it has been equally celebrated and frequented for its valuable iron mines near Rio. The circumference is estimated at sixty miles. It contains eight towns and communities, namely, Porto Ferrajo, Porto Lungone, Capo Livere, St. Piero, St. Ilario, Marciana, Poggio, and Rio. Porto Ferrajo, said to be the Argons Portus of antiquity, is in the possession of the Grand Duke of Tuscany, and from its size and neatness may be regarded as the capital of the island. Porto Lungone belongs to the Courts of Spain and Naples, who also possess all the other small castles or forts, which are garrisoned by their troops ; so that the whole military force, except the small part at Porto Ferrajo, is under THROUGH ITALY. S7 their command. The other six districts have each their separate communities and magistrates. Rio enjoys more ample privileges than the rest, being exempted from all taxes ; because the iron mines, which formerly belonged to the community, were ceded to the Prince, under certain conditions. A physician and surgeon are paid by the community to attend gratis all the sick of the district. Each town is governed by its peculiar magistracy, and appeals are carried to the governor-general, who resides at Piombino. Those made to the auditor- general, who resides with the Prince at Rome, are final. The island is chiefly composed of mountains, and very irregular in its form. The plains and vallies are small, and are situated contiguous to the villages. Cultivation is either ill understood, or much neglected. The produce of corn does not amount to more than three months consump- tion of the inhabitants ; but the wine is more than sufficient. A few olives are cultivated near Porto Ferrajo. Extensive groves of chesnuts are found at Marciana and Poggio. At Rio are many al- mond and fine fig trees, as well as walnuts. Goats are fed on the extensive tracts of waste land. Their milk makes indifferent cheese, but the curds are the most delicious I ever tasted, and formed the principal article of food during my stay. 38 classical tour Nature has scattered over the mountains a vast profusion of plants, particularly of aromatics and evergreens. Aloes and Indian figs abound, and the general coppice wood of the country is the ilex or evergreen oak. Vegetation is very for- ward, particularly at Porto Ferrajo. In other parts the mountains are feathered down to the very margin of the sea with myrtles and other tended shrubs. The great source of riches is formed by the iron mines at Rio. Though managed with little skill or order they produce to the prince a net re- venue of sixty thousand scudi yearly on an ave- rage. These are the only mines now wrought, perhaps from policy, and a fear of exciting the jealousy of the neighbouring powers ; for the island is said to contain mines of gold, silver, and copper. Those of granite, loadstone, and white and coloured marble, I myself visited. There are two tunny fisheries, at Porto Ferrajo and Marciana. Ihe first belongs to the Grand Duke, the last to the Prince. Both are productive, but that of the Prince the most. The air is excellent, the water good, and the s})rings numerous. One source at Rio turns fifteen mills. Considering the general liberty given to the cacciatori, or sportsmen, hares and red-legged par- THROUGH ITALY. 39 tridges are abundant. Porto Ferrajo and Porto Lungone are the only places well supplied with fish ; for though much is caught on the coast, the want of a market, and the low prices at home, induce the fishermen to carry it to Leghorn and the coasts of Tuscany, where they find a more ready and profitable sale. The wines made here are good, and many of them rich and luscious. Meat is scarce, and not of the best quality. The most elevated mountains are those of Mar- ciana and Sassi Tedeschi. Many remains of old castles and churches are found in various parts of the island. The roads are not practicable for car- riages, and scarcely safe for horses. As is the case in the Maremma, letters of recommendation are liere absolutely necessary, for the only house which deserves the name of an inn is at Porto Ferrajo ; but the hospitality of the inhabitants supplies the deficiency. The population of the whole island, not including the military stationed at Porto Lungone, is estimated at about ten thou- sand souls. The people are industrious, and ap- pear to live comfortably. Most of those at Rio possess either a small vineyard, or a piece of corn land ; and in reality, without such advantages, their condition would be hard, perhaps miserable. Many of the higher orders owe their ease and en- joyments to offices and salaries from the Prince, 40 CLASSICAL TOUR who pays his servd,nts and ministers very liberally. Were the island in the possession of a sovereign, instead of belonging to an individual, I am per- suaded every part of it might receive considerable improvement.* The soil is good, and well adapted to olives. The mines are incalculably rich, and with proper management might be rendered doubly productive. For trade and commerce, the coasts are indented with a continued series of numerous and excellent ports. The air is healthy, the water pure, and * A. D. 1815, Elba is now indeed become the property of a gi-devant sovereign and emperor j and its lawful owner, the Prince of Piombino, is despoiled of his rightful in- heritance : how far this island may prosper, how far it may increase in riches, civilization, and population, time alone will demonstrate. The following article concluded with the Allied Powers and the Emperor Napoleon, at Paris, on the 11th April 1814, has decided the fate of Elba, at least for the present j but the danger of keeping so powerful a neighbour near the coast of Italy may hereafter suggest some new place of removal and exile, and may restore this principality to its original possessor. The article above al- luded to runs thus. 9. The Island of Elba, which the Emperor Ivapoleon has chosen as his place of residence, shall form, during his life, a separate principality, which he shall possess in entire property and sovereignty.” P. S. This note had not been written one hour, when the escape of Buonaparte from Elba was announced to me by the London newspapers. 10th March 1815. THROUGH ITALY. 41 provision cheap. If all these natural advantages were improved by wise regulations, and proper encouragement given to the industry of the inha- bitants, the island would certainly rise to a much higher degree of consideration than at present, and, in fact, than its limited size appears at the first view* to permit. The spiritual government belongs to the Bishop of Massa, in the Maremma, who is invested with the superintendance of all the benefices. Every district seems to swarm with priests. The finest points of view in the island are from the Torre di Giove, and the Sassi Tedeschi, both near Rio ; from the Madonna del Monte, near Marciana ; the Falcone, at Porto Ferrajo ; and Seccheto, near St. Piero. D EPARTURE FROM Elba. Tuesday, May 5, I sailed from the island, and in two hours and a half reached Piombino. I dined with Cavaliere Fortunio Desiderj, and others, and afterwards rode to Populonia, where my friend the priest received me with open arms. Wednesday, May 6 . The morning was spent in viewing the situation of Populonia, and making several drawings, and the evening in the hospitable villa and society of the Desiderj family. 42 CLASSICAL TOUR PopuLONiA is generally considered as one of the twelve cities of Etruria. It is frequently mentioned by classic authors, and particularly by Virgil in these lines : — . . . sex centos dederat Populonia mater, Expertos belli juvenes. Hence we perceive, that although few remains are now extant of its former magnificence, yet its name has survived the ravages of time. By the above lines, we may also discover the opinion formed in the Augustan age of its pristine power and population ; for the contingent, which the poet states to have been drawn from the whole island of Elba, amounted to only three hundred, . . . , ast Ilva trecentos. How is it now fallen ! The whole population amounts only to about an hundred and thirty na- tives, and of strangers about forty or fifty more. Its situation is well and exactly described by the writers of antiquity. Of the modern town, which occupies the same spot of ground, I cannot give a better account than in the words of an Italian writer. After passing the tower of St. Vincenzio, we THROUGH ITALY. 43 come to a sweep of the shore, which bending up- wards, and entering the sea, forms an isthmus, on three sides, in a manner environed with the salt water. Here rises a little hill, which declines abruptly to the sea, and faces partly the Avest, partly the north, and partly the east ; having on the last side an extensive flat on the summit, Avhere was situated the ancient city of Populonia*.” This is an exact description of the old as well as of the modern town. The mountain is partly cultivated, and partly wooded ; the side next the sea being covered with a coppice. The soil is rich, and produces good crops of corn, and excel- lent olives. When we call to mind that the original city was destroyed a century before even the time of Strabo, we cannot expect to find an abundant harvest of antiquities. Some few, however, are still extant. The circuit of the walls is easily * Passata la torre di S. Vincenzio, s’incontra una circon- flessione del lido, la quale s’inalza ed entra nel mare, e forma un istmo, quasi di tre lati contornato dell’ acque niarine, ove sorge un’ monticello, che si sporge precipitosamente nel mare, e risguarda parte all’ occidente, parte all settentrione, e parte all’ oriente, avendo di quest’ ultimo lato una vasta pianura. Sulla cima di questo monticello era situata I’anti- chissima citta di Populonia. 44 CLASSICAL TOUR traced. These were composed of large stones^ similar in shape, and equal in size, to those at Vol terra. The extent of these fortifications was not great, but perhaps they only formed the citadel, as many fragments of antiquity, such as vases, stone coffins, &c. have been found, without the precinct which they enclose. On the most elevated part of the mountain are the ruins of a building with six arches. To what purpose it was destined is not known. A little below, are tbe mutilated fragments of two reservoirs for water. This is all which time has spared of the once celebrated Populonia : — Agnosci nequeunt aevi monumenta prioris, Grandia consumpsit maenia tempus edax : Sola manent interceptis vestigia muris Ruderibus latis tecta sepulta jacent. Time, indeed, has swept away all the orna- ments which it received from the hand of man ; but the decorations of nature, the beauties of its situation, defy the progress of age. They were truly cast in the happiest mould. From this lofty spot the prospects are astonishingly fine. On one side the eye glances over a vast expanse of sea, and rests on the distant coasts of Leghorn and Genoa, with the island of Elba in tbe more imme- diate vicinity : beneath is the port and bay, and an extensive plain bounded by mountains. THROUGH ITALY. 45 On the summit, where the town is situated, the air is good, but the inhabitants of the plain experience the injurious effects of the mol aria. This is occasioned by the wood and marshes, which now overspread the greater part of the sur- face, though it was probably cultivated in former times. The spots which are tilled produce great crops ; and there are parts of the hill, which yield thirteen or fourteen-fold. The marshes and woods abound with wild fowl, woodcocks, wild boars, and caprioli. Meat is scarce, but fish good. Beneath the hill is a little port called Porto Paratto, now blocked up with sand-banks, and often unsafe, but possessing the unusual advantage of admitting vessels with every wind. Close to the margin of the sea is an ex- cellent spring, the water of which is supposed to have been formerly conveyed many miles, by means of an aqueduct. Strabo imagines that Populonia was the only Etruscan city built on the sea coast. Quocirca sola haec Thuscis ex urbibus antiquitus ad mare fundata mihi videtur.” Near Torre Nuova are the remains of an ancient ditch or canal, which seems to have traversed the plain, and formed a communication between the two seas, across the isthmus. Great numbers of medals, coins, bronzes, idols. 46 CLASSICAL TOUR vases, &c. have been accidentally found within the site of the old city ; and I doubt not that many more valuable remnants of antiquity might be dis- covered, if the ground were properly searched. The greater part of Populonia, and the en- virons, belong to the family of Desiderj. I was kindly received and lodged in their house, which is the only abode fit for a stranger. Thursday, May 7. Having heard of some ruins, in point of situation answering those of Ve- tulonia, as described by Pietro Alberti, I departed in search of them, after breakfast, accompanied by a guide. Pursuing our track for ten miles through forests of oak and coppice wood, we reached these ruins, which I flattered myself were those I had long been anxious to discover. I had, however, not only the fatigue of a warm ride, but the addi- tional mortification of being disappointed in the object of my pursuit. There was no reason to doubt the knowledge of my guide, for he had re- peatedly traversed every foot of these woods, either in feeding cattle or in sporting ; and he assured me these were the only ruins which he had either heard of, or seen. Still, however, I am inclined to think, from the accurate information given by Alberti of the iron works and hot springs at Caldane, that he has not THROUGH ITALY. 47 been guilty of exaggeration in his account of Vetulonia. But the country being one continued forest, the place he has mentioned can scarcely be discovered, except by chance. The ruins to which I was led, were those of an old fortress, situated on a high hill, amidst woody mountains, and called Rocca di St. Silvestro. After refreshing myself with some cold meat, under one of the saint’s oaks, I proceeded to II Paduletto^ a farm house belonging to the Desiderj family, were I supped and slept. During the latter part of my journey, I followed the track of the Via Aurelia, which led from Rome to Pisa, and from thence to the south of France. I found none of the strata of stones entire. It still bears the name of Via Romana. The plain which I traversed is fertile, and produces great crops of corn. Friday, May 8. 1 proceeded, dined at Fol- lonica, where the iron works belonging to the Prince of Piombino are situated, and after travers- ing a noble grove of stone pines, part of the Tombolo, arrived in the evening at Castiglione. In the Pian d' Alma, a small stone bridge divides the territories of the Prince of Piombino from those of the Grand Duke of Tuscany. The road partly skirted the sea coast, and partly traversed a wild, woody, and 48 CLASSICAL TOUR deserted district ; and the whole journey afforded nothing interesting. Castigliofie is a pretty sea-port belonging to the Grand Duke. It carries on a considerable trade in charcoal and timber, which are brought from various parts of the Maremma, for exporta- tion. From the top of the fortress the eye catches a noble view of the sea on one side, and on the other, of the extensive plain in which Grosseto is situated, as well as of the vast grove of pines, called the Tombolo, and the great lake, once thirty miles in circumference, but now reduced to a marsh. At Castiglione there are now seventy or eighty boats, chiefly belonging to Neapolitans, engaged in the anchovy fishery, which is very abundant on this coast. I saw them sail this evening ; but in a short time they returned, in great confusion, in consequence of the appearance of two Turkish cruizers. A new custom-house is now building. Here is a large magazine, to receive the salt made at Porto Ferrajo. The place is subject in a high degree to the mal aria. For a very comfortable lodging, and hospitable reception, I was indebted to Signor Vincenzio Favi. Saturday, May 9- Left Castiglione in the THROUGH ITALY. 49 morning, and dined at Grosseto, where I found a very decent inn ; but what is esteemed good in the Maremma, would be thought bad elsewhere. For six miles I traversed the Tombolo, which at every step exhibits the most delightful studies imaginable for the lover of landscape. The Via Aurelia passed through this forest, and may yet be traced. After emerging from the shades of this forest, I entered an extensive plain, as flat as those of Holland. Near the further extremity is Grosseto, the capital of the Maremma, fortified with bastions, &c. but unprovided with soldiers. The bad air prevails here, and proves a serious check to the commerce and population of the town. Such ground as is cultivated produces abundant crops of corn ; but hands are scarce, for few can be tempted to stay and gather the harvest, even by the high wages of five pauls a day, with provisions. Indeed most of those, who are seduced to remain in this unwhole- some climate, pay the penalty of their imprudence by the loss of life or health. After dinner I sallied forth, to search for the ruins of the ancient Rusellce, a city boasting an Etruscan origin, and now bearing the name of Moscona. For want of a proper guide, I wandered some hours in a desert country, without finding the object of rny pursuit. I discovered nothing but the ruins of an old circular fortress, situate on the VOL. V. E 50 CLASSICAL TOUR summit of a hill. Beneath were several subterra- neous vaults, one of which was open, and so nearly resembling in its form and structure those in the island of Elba, that I am inclined to deem them of the same age. It was, like them, stuccoed within, and appears to have been intended as a reservoir for water. This summit commands an extensive prospect of the plain, and surrounding country. Three miles from Grosseto, on the road to Siena, and one mile from these ruins, are the sulphureous springs, called Bagni di Roselle, mentioned by Clu- verius, and other writers on ancient geography. A noble hospital has lately been built at Grosseto, the design of which must be in a great degree frus- trated by the want of proper assistants, who, in contributing to the cure of others, fall victims themselves to disease, proceeding from deleterious air. Sunday, May 1 0. Early in the morning I left Grosseto, and passed the river Ombrone, near the deserted city of Istia, of which the Bishop of Grosseto bears the title, annexed to that of his see. I thence proceeded to Monte Po, a villa belonging to my friend Signor Filippo Sergardi, where I arrived at noon. The road led through a wild and uninhabited country, which after I had crossed the Ombrone presented nothing but forests. On an eminence, about four miles from Monte Po, I en- THROUGH ITALY. 61 joyed a delightful view of Orbitello, Monte Argen- taro, Grosseto, the sea, &c. Monte Po, situated in the midst of mountains, clothed with fine oaks, is the very model for a place of retirement. The villa, which is in the form of a castle, was built during the troubles in the republic of Siena, from whence the Sergardi family were then expelled. Alluding to this incident, a stone over the entrance gate bears the motto : REFVGIVM CVRARVM ANNO 1548. Monday, May II. In the morning I quitted Monte Po, and continued my journey to Saturnia, along wretched and stony roads, and through groves of oaks, and a country as uninteresting as that which I had traversed the day before. I was re- commended to the Colonnesi family, and received with the hospitality, which distinguishes the Ma- remma. After dinner I visited the scanty remains of this ancient city, attended by the surgeon of the place, as my cicerone. Saturnia, like Populonia, has preserved its original name, after the lapse of ages ; yet little except the name remains. Some scattered frag- ments, however, are still left, as if to attest its antiquity. The present ruined walls and fortress occupy the site of the former city. These were 53 CLASSICAL TOUR well built, and appear to have been of the same age as the ruins in the island of Elba ; but how much the style of architecture had then degenerated, may be seen by a comparison with a part of the antique walls still left, which are composed of large stones, more accurately cut than those of Populonia and Volterra. The circuit is computed at three miles; and seven moggie and a half of corn are sown within the enclosure. On each side of the gate near the fortress, we discover fragments of the original walls, and not far from this spot stood one of the gates; for a part of the road is yet visible. The steeple of the church is probably built with stones taken from these early works. In one part is an old inscription reversed; a sufficient proof of the barbarism which marked the aera when it was erected. In the middle of the town is an upright piece of stone work, which ap- pears to have formed an arch or gate way. A part of it is fluted, as if to represent a column. These are the principal remains of the ancient city, except a few inscriptions, scattered in different parts of the town, two of which, bearing the name of Antoninus Pius, are placed before the door of the house belonging to the Marchese Ximeues. The large stones of the original walls were doubt- less broken, and used in the construction of those of modern date. Several subterraneous grottos are THROUGH ITALY. 53 still open in the neighbouring fields ; but there is great reason to suppose that many more exist undiscovered, for in various spots the water sud- denly disappears after hard rains. Many medals, bronzes, &c. have also been found. I saw myself a medal of the Emperor Claudius, and another of Faustina; and a silver medal, on which I could only trace the word Csesar, and what appeared to be the figure of an elephant on the reverse. The old roads converging on Saturn ia are indica- tions of its former importance. Of these I traced five : one leading towards Rome ; one towards Ruselle; a third towards Monte Argentaro; a fourth towards Chiusi ; and a fifth towards Siena ; all of which in construction were similar to the Via Appia. Saturnia is built on an insulated eminence, rising abruptly from the plain. The site of the city is a hard rock, to which the shape of the walls was adapted; and the surface is a perfect flat. The situation is one of the finest imaginable, open to every breath of air, and commanding on every side a beautiful prospect ; yet from a want of po- pulation the mal aria prevails during the hot months to such an alarming degree, that of an hundred inhabitants scarcely ten remain here in the summer. The Grand Duke, on visiting Satur- nia, was so delighted with the situation, that he 54 CLASSICAL TOUR endeavoured to attract settlers, by offering to de- fray half the expenses of those who should erect dwellings. In the neighbourhood are two mineral springs ; one gushing from a rock on the side of a mountain, the other rising in a vale below, strongly impregnated with sulphur, and so copious as to turn a mill. The water of both is warm. Tuesday, May 12. At day-break I pursued my journey, following the track of the old road for two miles or more. The country is similar to that which I had traversed the two preceding days. As timber trees the oaks are extremely fine. I continued along the course of the river Albegna. At Massiliano, which belongs to Prince Corsini, we refreshed our horses, and pursued our route through a large plain, as arid and dusty as those of Arabia. At Orbitello I found the whole town celebrating the festival of their patron saint, and was treated with two horse races in the evening. The road to Massiliano is bad, but good from thence to Orbitello. My lodging, which was the only one to be found, was worse than indifferent : I was nearly devoured by fleas, &c. Wednesday, May 13. At Orbitello I met some friends, whom I had quitted at Siena. After breakfast, we all repaired to the Convent of the THROUGH ITALY. 55 Ritiro, on Monte Argentaro. We traversed the Lake of Orbitello for two miles, then landed, and after mounting a steep ascent for two miles more, un- der a scorching sun, we found ourselves at the place of our destination. This convent, with another about half a mile distant, has been lately founded. The inmates are Passionists, and of the mendicant order. Their buildings are good and neat, and the si- tuation delightful. The convent is surrounded with a grove of chesnuts and evergieens, &c. and commands an extensive prospect of Orbitello, the Maremma, the sea, Corsica, and other distant islands and coasts. In the vicinity rise abundant springs of the purest water, an article peculiarly scarce in these districts. It is conveyed from hence to the sea shore by means of a subterrane- ous aqueduct, and afterwards to Orbitello, where the water as well as the wine is very bad. On the neighbouring coast is a tunny fishery, which produces plenty of good fish. From the monks we received a hearty welcome. We dined in the refectory, and left them a present to say mass, the only mode which the rules of the order permitted to pay them for their trouble. They possess a Madona, by Subleyras, and an Ecce Homo, by Sebastian Conca. Had I before known of this convent I should have chosen it for my lodging, instead of the place I found at Orbitello. 66 CLASSICAL TOUR Having dined, we descended to our bark, and after rowing on the lake about a mile and a half re- landed. We passed by the fort of St. Filippo, which is situated on an eminence, and strong both by nature and art ; and having walked two miles, we reached Porto Ercole. The appearance of this town is very singular. Built on the acclivity of a steep hill, it resembles a flight of steps; each street bearing the appearance of a landing-place. The port is not large, and seems to have been blocked up through time and neglect. It was the Portus Herculis of antiquity, and under that name is mentioned by the classic authors. The mouth is guarded on one side by the fort of Filippo, and on the other, by that of La Rocca ; and further on are the Stella, and another small fortress. From the summits of these forts the eye com- mands a fine prospect. The appearance of the soldiers forming the garrison is wretched beyond description. These forts, with the adjoining ter- ritory of Orbitello, Monte Argentaro, &c. &c. and Porto Lungone in the Isle of Elba, compose what is called Lo Stato de Presidii. They are consi- dered as the keys of Tuscany, and as such retained by the courts of Spain and Naples. Near the entrance of Porto Ercole we found a good inn, and our party was increased by three friends from Orhitello. We feasted on red mul- THROUGH ITALY. '57 letSj and excellent wine, the produce of the place ; and spent a very cheerful and pleasant day. Monte Argentaro is the Mons Argentarius of the ancients, and as such mentioned by Rutilius Numatianus, Cluverius, and others. Besides the forts already named, is that of St. Stefano, at the other extremity of the harbour. It is connected with the opposite coast by a narrow strip of land, which divides the Lake of Orbitello from the sea, and seems once to have been an island. The po- pulation is thin, and cultivation scanty ; yet all its productions are highly flavoured, and excellent in their kind. The seasons are much earlier here than on the opposite coast, and fruits ripen sooner than in the other part of Tuscany. A wine, called Rimenhe, is made on this little spot, which is much esteemed, and scarce from the smallness of the quantity. As in the Isle of Elba, the un- cultivated mountains are clothed with a brush- wood of myrtles, &c. though not in so great a variety. Not far distant from the part on which St. Stefano is situated, is the little island of Gig- lio, on which I heard there were some trifling re- mains of antiquity. Thursday, May 14. At break of day we sailed from Porte Ercoky and after a passage of four miles, landed at a tower under Ansedonia. 58 CLASSICAL TOUR Amidst the rocks on the coast are the ruins of some antique baths, in which fragments of mosaic have been discovered. These baths were exca- vated in the solid rock. On the summit of the hill are the remains of an Etruscan city, once splendid, but now totally deserted, and overgrown with woods The circuit of the walls can still be traced, as well as the gates, which appear to have been four in number. One of them, except the arch itself, is very perfect. Four Roman roads are also observed, diverging from hence in different directions. That leading towards Orbitello ap- pears to have been the grandest and widest. The walls and gates are far the finest of the kind I have yet seen. From the style of the masonry, I conceive them to be of nearly the same date as the few specimens yet left at Saturnia. The stones are larger and better connected than those at Po- pulonia and Volterra, without cement, and more perfectly preserved. Strabo, Rutilius Numatia- nus, Cluverius, &c. place the city of Cossae in this neighbourhood ; and from the description and si- tuation of Ansedonia, Cluverius judges them to be the same. Strabo observes : Cossae paul6 supra mare oppidum extat : in sinu tumulus sublimis est, in quo aedificatum est oppidum, sub quo Hercujis Portus jacet, et ex mari lacus salsus propinquus.” Cluverius adds, “ Qua propter omnin6 recipi- THROUGH ITALY. 59 enda hic est eorum sententia qui Cosam interpre- tantur id oppidura, quod ad initium istlimi qua is continenti jungitur, in excelso colle, baud ita pro- cul k mari, vulg6 nunc dicitur Ansedonia.” A dissertation, which I have not yet seen, has lately been published, controverting this opinion, and fixing the ancient Cossae at a place called St. Liberata, near St. Stefano. But the itinerary of Rutilius Numatianus*, describing his voyage on this coast, is so explicit, as to leave no doubt of the identity of Ansedonia and Cossae. He took his departure from Centumcell(F, now Civita Vecchia, as appears by these lines : Ad Centumcellas forti deveximus austro Tranquilly, puppes in statione sedent. He then proceeds : — Roscida puniceo fuls6re crepuscula coelo Pandimus oblique lintea flexa sinu j Paulisper littus fugimus Munione vadosuni, Suspecto trepidant ostia parva solo. Inde Graviscarum fastigia rara videmus, Quas premit aestivae saepe paludis odor j * Claudii Rutilii Numatiani Galli Itinerarium, cum notis. 12mo. Amstelaedami. 1687. 60 CLASSICAL TOUR Sed nemorosa viret densis vicinia lucis, Pineaque extremis fluctuat umbra fretis. Cernimus antiquas nullo custode rainas, Et desolatae maenia faeda Cosae. Haud procul hinc petitur signatus ab Hercule portus, &c. And soon afterwards, Notus vicino vertice ventus adest, Tenditur in medias Mons Argentarius undas, Ancipitique jugo coarula rura premit. His course was therefore, evidently, from Civita Vecchia, by the river Mignone {Muniont) to Gravisc(£ (supposed to have been at Montalto), CoscB (Ansedonia), Porto Ercole {Portus Herculis), Monte Argentaro {Mons Argentarius)^ &c. Con- sequently had CoscE been situated near the present St. Stefano, it must have occupied a different place in the itinerary; for to reach St. Stefano, it is necessary to cross the strip of land dividing the lake from the sea, or to make a circuit round Monte Argentaro, in which case Mons Argentarius must have been first mentioned. Besides, the description in the itinerary corresponds so exactly with the present situation of the different places ; and the remains at Ansedonia afford such striking proofs of the existence of a great and antique city, that I am surprised to find an accurate and dis- cerning investigator attempting to fix the site of CoscB elsewhere. THROUGH ITALY. 61 At Ansedonia, as well as at Satnrnia, I ob- served the ruins of fortresses, built in later times, and subterraneous vaults, &c. confusedly intermixed with remains of a much remoter a;ra. Leaving Ansedonia, we followed the track of an old road, till we reached the border of the lake, where we found our boat waiting. We here traversed a part of the neck or slip of land already mentioned, which from its appearance was gradually formed by the depositions of the sea, during a long course of time. Indeed within the memory of man it has considerably increased, and the basis is sand throughout, though the luxuriant vegetation of the climate has in many parts changed the nature of the soil near the surface. Traversing the lake for five miles we again arrived at Orbitello. On an attentive examination I was led to conclude that the walls, both of the fort and town, must have been constructed with materials, drawn either from some ancient road, or the remains of Cosce. Orbitello is the largest town in these parts. Its situation is low, and it is almost surrounded by the lake, which infects the air even to the very gates. From the strength of the population 62 CLASSICAL TOUR within the walls, the town itself is kept tolerably healthy. Many think, and I am inclined to coincide in the opinion, that Monte Argentaro was once an island. Its insulated appearance, the rocks ad- joining the part connected with the opposite coast by a slip of land, and the daily increase of that slip of land itself, furnish a strong presumptive evidence for such a conclusion. Ma bisogna dare al mondo la barba. At all events the preceding sketch will corro- borate the opinion of those who place Cosce at Ansedonia ; and militates strongly against that of the writer who, from the discovery of certain ruins and other relics of antiquity, has endeavoured to fix it at St. Liberata. After dinner we left Orbitello, and pursued our journey to Grosseto, twenty-five miles distant. We crossed a shallow part of the lake on horse- back, and here I again discerned the traces of the Via Aurelia^ now covered with water. For many miles I continued to follow it in the same direct line, and saw the remains of two old bridges, over which it crossed the rivers Albinia and Osa, re- sembling another which I sdw on the Ombrone, THROUGH ITALY. 63 near Grosseto. Between these two rivers is Tala- mone, the Portus' Tdemonis of antiquity, from which the sea has retired, and left a marsh, pro- ducing a very bad air. Not far distant appears the track of the aforesaid Via, leading to Saturnia. On the opposite side of the marsh, near the extre- mity, is a castle belonging to the Marsigli family, of Siena, from whence in former times a beautiful girl of that family was forcibly carried away by the Turks. Her extraordinary charms captivated the Grand Signor, who espoused her. The anec- dote is recorded in the Ottoman History. The road from Orbitello to Grosseto presents little interesting scenery, and, like the rest of the Maremma, the country is woody and uncultivated. Friday, May 15. Early in the morning I left Grosseto, accompanied by Signor Bondoni, an in- habitant of the place, in search of the ruins of Rusell(E, which I had before failed to find for want of a proper guide. I have already observed that the remains I had seen at Moscona did not in any way correspond with the description of Cluverius, and therefore I was convinced that I must look for this ancient city elsewhere. My second expe- dition was more satisfactory. These ruins are thus mentioned by Cluverius : “ Sunt hodi^ aquae calidae III millia passuum a Grosseto, qua Senam itur, vul- 64 CLASSICAL TOUR gari adpellatione Bagni di Roselle, id est Aquae Rosellarum. Juxta has, in colle, conspiciuntur insignes ruinae praeclari quondam oppidi, quod pastoribus nunc ac pecudibus babitatum, vulgo dicitur Moscona: muri etiam nunc extant, semi- ruti, lapide quadrato praegrandi extructi,” &c. &c. He continues by giving an account of various fragments of columns, and other marbles, coins^ bronzes, &c. found there, and adds : Quae cuncta loci vetustatem juxt^ dignitatemq ; ac splendorem apert6 vindicant.” At i present the place is totally uninhabited? and continues only a shelter for cattle and wild animals, It is so overgrown with wood, as to be not easily approached, or even discovered. Be- sides the walls, nothing of a very antique date remains, except a circular building, supposed by antiquaries to have been an amphitheatre. In a book entitled Esame deW Esame di un libro sopra la Maremma Senese, printed at Florence in the year 1775,' I find a large plan of the walls, and another of this structure. In this draught the author has very satisfactorily, to himself at least, traced the form and appendages of an amphi- theatre, namely the vestibule, corridores, arena, caxiece for wild beasts, podiu7n, or place destined for the chief magistrates, &c. But to confess the THROUGH ITALY. 65 truth, I could discern none of these peculiarities, except the form, which is certainly that of an am- phitheatre*. Here are the remains of some vaulted apartments, tolerably perfect ; and some of the opus reticulatum, in the masonry, which does not appear of an earlier date than that already mentioned at Le Grotto^ in the Isle of Elba. On objects which do not furnish ocular proof sufficient to produce conviction, every one may venture to hazard an opinion : mine is, that this building was not an amphitheatre of Roman structure ; but erected at a later aera, and perhaps about the same period as those in the Isle of Elba, as well as at Saturnia, Moscona, &c. all of which, in the architecture of their subterraneous vaults, resemble each other. I clearly perceived that the adjacent ground had been cultivated, and that buildings of a more modern date had stood on the spot. But it is of little consequence to enter into the age or intent of this structure, when we find such striking evidence of the remote anti- quity and former splendour of Rusellae within the compass of its walls, which for so many centuries have bid defiance, and for many more may yet * For a more detailed account of this ancient city, the discovery of the amphitheatre, &c. &c. see the above work, page 59. VOL. V. F 66 CLASSICAL TOUR bid defiance, to the ravages of the great devourer. Time. The quantity of trees, thorns, and coppice wood, which render the approach difficult, may at the same time have contributed to their pre- servation. Of these remains the most noble and perfect part is exposed towards the north, and faces the great road, leading to Siena. Here We see the works of a nation, who by several cen- turies preceded the Romans, and on whose ruins the Romans laid the first foundation of that mighty power, which afterwards overshadowed the whole civilized world : — sic fortis Etruria cessit Scilicet et rerum facta est pulcherrima Roma. With wonder and amazement we may here contemplate the traces of a people, who flourished before the dawn of authentic history, but who are made known to us chiefly by the final struggle which decided their fate, and assimilated them with their conquerors. In exploring these awful remains of so remote an age, we shall find ample cause for astonishment, at the profound knowledge of mechanics, which must have been employed in raising and placing stones of such extraordinary magnitude. Here we see the striking and gigantic character of the Etruscan architecture, both civil and military, and may bring it into comparison THROUGH ITALY. 67 with the numerous works, dispersed through Italy, of the people in whom the Etruscan name and nation were lost. These walls are far superior to any of the kind I have yet noticed, in regard to preservation, and apparent antiquity. They are connected with less art and attention to regularity, than those at Sa- turnia, Ansedonia, Populonia, &c. and bear more of a primitive character, from the vast magnitude of the stones, and the little attention paid to sym- metry in their disposition. In one place we find a square, in another an oblong, and in a third a triangular stone ; all apparently laid according to the order in which they were drawn from the quarry ; and not moulded into form, as at Saturnia and Ansedonia. From curiosity I was induced to measure a few, and give the dimensions of three as a specimen. No. 1, more than six feet square; No. 2, nine feet long, and six high ; No. 3, nine feet and a half long, and five feet and a half in diameter. The last is the most striking, as it is at the very summit of the wall ; but these are not the most massive, for from the situation of the min, on the declivity of a steep hill, overgrown with 68 CLASSICAL TOUR brushwood, I was unable to measure, or even to examine the largest stones minutely. The height of the walls appeared to be about twenty feet, or at least above fifteen ; but of this it was difficult to judge from their mass and po- sition. On considering the situation of the Etruscan cities, I find that they were generally built on eminences, of which the summits were purposely levelled. They seem to have begun by rendering the ground even, and raising the walls, before they erected dwellings ; and probably the stones thus dug up were employed in the construction of the walls. Hence the mechanical labour of mov- ing such masses was diminished; for the stones were lowered, not raised. There is reason at least to presume, that this was the mode adopted at Rusellae, from the evenness of the surface, which was occupied by the city, and the circular shape of the stones composing the walls. I was told that a small house in the plain beneath, be- longing to one Franchi or Franceschi, contained many fragments of ancient inscriptions, &c. But the ingenious architect, who erected it, contrived to place these stones with the characters inwards, and thus probably hid from the curious investi- THROUGH ITALY. 69 gator many documents, from which information might have been drawn respecting this singular city. Having fully gratified our curiosity, in ex- ploring these interesting remains of Etruscan antiquity, we proceeded towards Siena, dined at a little inn called Le Capanelle; and slept at Fercole, where we found a neat and clean inn, with good beds. Saturday, May 16. At break of day we pro- ceeded, and reached Siena by nine. The road from Grosseto to Siena is the best I have found in Tuscany. Like the greater part of the Maremma, the country is in general woody and uninhabited* till within a few miles of Siena, where the desert terminates, and habitations increase. On the road are many ruined fortresses, one of which, Paganico, was formerly strong, but now contains only a few people. At Petriolo are sulphureous baths, and the spot itself exhibits some picturesque scenery. We overtook vast flocks of sheep and goats, which at this season make an annual mi- gration, from the hot and pestilential marshes of the Maremma, to the healthy and refreshing mountains of the Casentino. My tour into this district has in every point of 70 CLASSICAL TOUR view been interesting and satisfactory. The mo- tive which induced me to undertake it was the desire of gleaning information from books, and still more from monuments yet extant, of a nation remarkable not only for its high antiquity, but for its skill in many of the fine arts ; a nation, of whom Dempster, in his book De Etruria Regalif justly observes: ‘^Bis mille annis et quingentis, suo jure liberi, Etruriae reges bello juxta ac pace, supra omnes finitimos egregie floruere.” This part of Tuscany, which I have lately ex- plored, contains the most striking remains of Etruscan workmanship which now exist; and in remote ages was evidently a well inhabited district. No traveller who feels respect for antiquity will regret the labour of a visit to Volterra, Populonia, Saturnia, Ansedonia, and Rusellae. The advance of the season, and the dread of the mat arla^ prevented the entire accomplishment of my Tuscan tour ; so that the rest of the coast from Orbitello to Rome, which I intended to examine, and which was much celebrated by antiquity, must form the object of a future jour- ney. The island of Elba may furnish a repast for every palate. The naturalist, the botanist, the THROUGH ITALY. 71 mineralogist, and the painter, may there find the highest entertainment. This little spot, which unites within so narrow a compass all the beauties of nature, is deserving of much more notice than it has generally received from travellers. Nor is it without interest even in a political view ; for on the smallest scale it combines three distinct forms of government ; that of Porto Ferrajo, belonging to Tuscany ; that of Porto Lungone, belonging to Spain and Naples ; and that of the district belong- ing to the principality of Piombino. The Maremma has furnished matter for whole volumes of dissertations and discussions. It has also been a subject which has exercised and foiled all the powers of art. Repeated endeavours have been made by the Medici family, and by the reign- ing Grand Duke, to correct the bad air of this fruitful and extensive part of their dominions, and to render it populous and useful to society. Hi- therto, however, no plan has proved successful. Some years ago various works, such as mill^, canals, embankments, &c. were constructed at a considerable expense, under the direction of the Abbate Ximenes, for the purpose of draining and purifying the marshes ; but at present they are become useless and neglected. The failure, indeed, may perhaps rather be ascribed to the nature and situation of the ground itself, than to the means 72 CLASSICAL TOUR devised for its improvement ; because, on the commencement of the summer heats, the ma- nagers employed to superintend the canals, sluices, and mills, were invariably attacked with disease, and consequently the mechanical operation of the works was suspended. The Lake of Castiglione, which is supposed to be the Lams Prills of the ancients, is regarded as the principal cause of the bad air in the plain of Grosseto. It may perhaps be one cause, but certainly not the only one ; for many other parts of the Maremma, such as Saturnia, &c. situated on elevated spots, and distant from lakes or stag- nant waters, are yet equally unhealthy. On the ground of this opinion, however, various remedies have been suggested. It has been proposed to convey part of the waters of the river Ombrone into the lake by means of canals, with the idea, that a deposition of earth would gradually take place, and render the surface level. Other schemes have been tried, but with no better effect. Not- withstanding these failures, the Grand Duke is so far from relinquishing the hope of correcting this evil, that he has countenanced the plans of another projector, who is engaged in this business, though none of his schemes have yet been carried into execution. A road is now making, at the vast expense of eight thousand crowns per mile, from Grosseto to Castiglione. THROUGH ITAJ-Y. 7 ^ The general causes to which the badness of the air is ascribed are, — the want of population ; the quantity of stagnant water and marshy land ; the poor living and filth of the inhabitants ; the vast woods, which impede the circulation of the air; the effects of putrefaction, both of the leaves and reeds, which decay, and of the numerous animals which yearly fall victims to the pestilential atmo- sphere ; and the imprudence of the people, who expose themselves too earl^ in the morning and too late at night. Of these the two first are ob- viously the primary, the rest mere secondary causes. In remote times this part of Etruria was much more populous than at present ; yet from the distance between the remains of the Etruscan cities still existing I doubt whether it was ever as well peopled as *^the more wholesome part of the country. That the air was considered as injurious in the time of the Romans, we have the testimony of the classic writers. Pliny observes, “ est sanfe gravis et pestilens ora Tuscorum, quae per littus extenditur.” And Sidonius Apollinaris says, “ pestilens regio Tuscorum, spiritu aeris venenatis flatibus inebriate, vaporatum corpus infecit ; intere^ febris sitisque penitissimum cordis medullarumque secre- tum depopulabantur.” 74 Classic AL roUR To the Maremma Horace also seems to allude in these lines : — . . . . pigris ubi nulla cam pis Arbor aestiv& recreatur umbr&. Quod latus mundi nebulae malusque Jupiter urget. These quotations sufficiently shew the appre- hension entertained of the infectious air on the coast of Tuscany in the most flourishing period of the Roman empire. We do not find that expe- dients were then employed to remedy the evil, by a people who cannot be accused of a want of en- terprise, perseverance, or boldness in their public works. Perhaps they considered it as inherent, and arising from the natural quality of the atmo- sphere, and therefore irremediable. What the Romans perhaps did not attempt, the moderns have not left unessayed. The resources of science, aided by princely liberality, have hitherto been exerted in vain ; and I fear that all future plans are likely to prove equally fruitless. THROUGH ITALY. 75 ITINERARY SIENA, THROUGH THE DISTRICT OF ANCIENT ETRURIA, THE ISLAND OF ELBA, &c. &c. Places. Mila. From Siena Colie 16 Volterra 14 Le Pomarancie, by the Salt Works 8 Sughereto 20 Populonia 10 Piombino 5 IsIcoFElba ... 12 Rio 2 Porto Ferrajo, and back to Rio.. 10 Capo Castello, and back to Rio . . 12 Mode of travelling, 4<. Very long miles. Ditto. By sea. Partly by sea. By land. CLASSICAL TOUR Places. Miles. Mode of travelling, i Porto Ferrajo 7 By land. Marciana 10 St. Piero 5 Capo Livere . . . 10 T Punta della Gala- rBy Sea. mita 21 2 5 Porto Lungone Rio 41 Piombino 12 Populonia 5 Torre di S. Sil- vestro 10 Le Padulette . . . 10 Follonica 7 Castiglione .... 14 Grosseto 14 Moscona, and back 8 Monte Po 16 Saturnia 10 Massiliano .... 11 Orbitello 9 A1 Ritiro 4 Two miles by vSea, Porto Ercole . . . 3^ and two by land. Two mi|es by land, Ansedonia .... 5 the rest by sea. By sea. To the lake . . . . 2 THROUGH ITALY. 77 Places. From Orbitello . . Gross ETO . . Fercole . . . Siena . . . . Miles. Mode of Iravelling, ^c. . . . 5 On the lake. . . . 25 . . . 28 ... 24 373 I 78 CLASSICAL TOUR JOURNEY FROM ROME TO BENEVENTUM, ON THE APPIAN WAY. APPIA LONGARUM TERITUR REGINA VIARUM. The Via Appia, which was justly esteemed the grandest of all the Roman ways, owes its founda- tion to Appius Claudius, which, as well as the Aqua Appia, have derived their names from the above noble Roman, whose deeds have been comme- morated in the following inscription : — APPIVS CLAVDIVS C . F. CAECVS Censor. Cos. n. Diet. Interrex ii. Pr. ii. Aed, cur. n. Q. tr. mil. m. complura oppida de Samnitib, cepit. Sabinorum et Thuscor. exercitum fudit, pacem fieri cum Pyrrho rege prohibuit, in censura viam Appiam stravit, et aquam in urbem adduxit. Aedem Bellonae fecit. » He began his censorship in the year of Rome 44 ] , from which period we may date the origin of these national undertakings. THROUGH ITALY. 79 Frontinus says, ‘^Appia aqua inducta est ab Appio Claudio Censore, cui posteaCiECO cogno- men fuit ; M. Valerio Maximo, et P. Decio Mure Coss. anno xx. post initium belli Samnitici, qui et VI AM Appiam a port^ Capeni usque ad urbem Ca- puam muniendam curavit.” And Diodorus Siculus says, on the same subject, Appiam viam, a se sic nominatam, magna ex parte duris lapidibus Rom4 Capuam constravit. Quod intervallum est sta- diorum plus mille, et loca eminentia solo compla- nando, et depressa cavaque magnis aggeribus ex- aequando, universum aerarium publicum exhausit.” And another author, Pomponius, observes, “ Post- hunc Appius Claudius Appiam viam stravit, et aquam Claudiam induxit.” From these authorities we are enabled to ascertain the author of these great and useful public works, and to judge of the enormous ex- pense attending their execution. The next object for our consideration is the construction, form, and materials, of this celebrated way ; of which we are enabled to judge by the description of a similar road, called the Via Domi- tiana, recorded by the poet Statius, O quantse pariter manus laborant ! Hie primus labor inchoare sulcos. 80 CLASSICAL TOUR Et lato egestu penitils cavare terras, Mox haasias allter, uliier replere fussas. Hi caedunt nemus, exuuntque montes. Hi ferro scopulos, trabesque csedunt. Tunc umbonibus bine et bine coactis Et crebria iter alligare gompbis. In forming these Roman roads, of which the traveller will see so many fine specimens through- out Italy, and more especially on the tract over which I shall now conduct him, the first process was to mark out the course of the intended road, which was invariably (in every country where the Romans had a footing) carried in as straight a line as the nature of the country would admit ; the soil was then excavated, in order to procure a solid foundation, the want of which was remedied by piles. The sides of the causeway were then flanked by two strong walls, which served as a support to the road, and as a parapet or trottoir for the benefit of travellers. The shell of the road being thus formed, the excavated space, or the fosscE, was filled up with various layers of stone, cemented together by a kind of earth called puz- xolana, vs^hich has the property of hardening almost equal to marble. Of this earth a mortar was composed, on which was placed an upper stratum of large flat stones, which were formed to a point at bottom. By these precautions, and the nice method adopted in uniting them on the surface. THROUGH ITALY. 81 they TYere so firmly linked together, as to become almost one stone. The stones selected for the upper covering of the Roman roads are of a dark grey hue, resembling those formed by volcanic matter; which has induced some authors to sup- pose that the Romans, who, in the performance of any grand national work, never considered either expense or difficulty, had transported the stones, designed for the Appian way, from some distant province, or perhaps from the neighbourhood of Mount Vesuvius, or Puzzuoli ; but their opinion has been contradicted by others, who have dis- covered quarries of a similar stone in various parts of the Campagna. The Via Flaminia, Cassia, and Aurelia, being formed with similar materials, we cannot suppose that the Romans would have resorted to so distant a province as that in which Vesuvius is situate for the transport of stones. The noble and singular construction of the Via Appia, and the numei^ous vestiges of antiquity, which, in following its course, attract our attention, will ever render it an object worthy of the notice of every intelligent traveller. The monuments, which flank its sides through the Campagna as far as Albano, demonstrate great variety in plan as well as architecture; and are chiefly sepulchral, owing their rural situation to an express law of the twelve tables forbidding burial within the city VOL. V. G CLASSICAL TOUR walls. In urhe ne sepelito. The ground, therefore, immediately adjoining the city was selected for funereal use ; and vanity, perhaps, may have had some influence over the minds of the Romans in selecting the immediate contiguity of the great travelling road for their mortal deposit, that the eye of the passenger might be attracted by the in- scribed address, so commonly adopted, of Siste, Viator I On no other Roman road were the mo- numents so frequent as on the Appian way, which seems, like our Westminster Abbey and St. Paul’s, to have been considered as the most distinguished site for inteirment. Before I commence this interesting iter, it is necessary to mention two other concomitant ap- pendages to the Roman ways, the mile-stones, and the cippi. To Caius Gracchus has been attributed the invention of milliaries, which were generally moulded into a columnar shape ; singula milliaria dimensa diligenter, lapides columnis distincta. These also served as monitors to the traveller of his progress. Intervalla viae fessis praestare videtur, Qui notat inscriptus niillia multa lapis. In the smaller roads, called trwii and quadrwii, the Lares males, and the Bii Termini, pointed out to the traveller the direction he should pursue. THROUGH ITALY. 83 I have before mentioned the parapet, or irottoir, on each side of the causeway ; with this the cippi were connected, being inserted at certain intervals within the parapet, and elevated above it. These were found useful for mounting on horse- back, laying down burdens, &c. &c., as Lipsius observes : insidere fessis, onera reclinare, aut et ascendere ex iis in equum.” It will also be necessary to make ourselves acquainted with the stations which formerely were established on the Appian way, and which are thus recorded by Antonine. ROMA. ARiciA millia plus minus xvi. TRES TABERNAS m. pi. 7n. • « • • XVII. Adsponsas VII. APPII FORVM . . . m. pi. m. . . . . • . XVIII. XXI. TERRACINAM . . m. pi. m. .... . . XVIII. EVNDIS . . . . XVI. FORMIIS XIV. MINTVRJSnS IX. SINVESSA IX. CAPUA XXVI. The Via Appia commenced its course, like all the other Roman ways, from the milliarium aureum^ 84 CLASSICAL TOUR or the golden mile-stone, that was placed in the Forum, and is thus mentioned by Suetonius : “ ubi stabat columna aurea, in qu^ incisae omnes Italiae vice finiunt.” The mile-stone No. I. has fortu- nately been preserved, and being still visible at Rome, informs us of the nature and shape of these useful monitors. It is circular, having a moulding and a square entablature at top, and bears the follow- ing inscription under the numeral I. denoting its distance from the milliarium aureum : — IMP. CAESAR VESPASIANVS . AVG . POOTIF . MAXIM . TRIE . POTESTAT . VII . IMP . . P. P. CENSOR . COS . VII . DESIGN . VIII . The above is cut on a square stone, round which is a projecting moulding. Beneath it, cut in the stone, and at a subsequent period, is this second inscription : — IMP . NERVA . CAESAR AVGVSTVS . PONTIFEX MAXIMVS.TRIBVNICIA POTESTATE.COS. Ill . PATER PATRIAE . REFECIT. But before I quit the mural precincts of mo- dern Rome, my natural enthusiasm for historical antiquity will not allow me to pass over in silence the Mausoleum of the Scipios. It remained till of late unknown, though many other ruined se- pulchres had been ascribed to that illustrious THROUGH ITALY. 85 family. Classical tradition had thrown some light upon its situation, which was near the Porta Capena, and the following inscription, found in the year 16 16, ought to have indicated the precise site of the family burial-place, and encouraged further researches. QUEI {que) APICEM . INSIGNE . DIALIS FLAMINIS . GESISTEI (gessisti) MORS PER- FECIT TVA . VT . ESSENT OMNIA . BRE- VIA . HONOS . FAMA VIRTVSQVE . GLORIA ATQVE INGENIVM QVIBVS SEI (si) IN LON- GA LICVISSET TIBE (tibi) UTIER VITA FA- CILE FACTEIS (factis) SVPERASSES GLO- RIAM MAIORVM QVARE LYBENS TE IN GREMIV (gremium) SCIPIO RECIPIT TERRA PVBLI PROGNATVM PVBLIO CORNELL But it was not till the year 1780, that chance discovered this interesting sepulchral chamber, on a little farm situate between the Via Appia and Latina, and on the outside of the Porta Capma, where these two ancient ways separated. The circumstances attending this ' fortunate event are thus related by Piranesi in his general account of this Mausoleum*. Whilst enlarging the souter- * This fine work, containing plans, drawings, and de- scriptions of the Mausoleum, &c. is entitled Monument! degli Scipioni publicati dal Cavaliere Francesco Piranesi, neir anno 1785.” 86 CLASSICAL TOUR rams of a casino, the labourers discovered two large tablets of peperino marble, with characters engraved and coloured with red ; upon which discovery the Pope ordered the researches to be continued at his own expense for the space of a year, during- which period, the magnificent sarco- phagus of Scipio Barbatus, bearing the following inscription, was rescued from obscurity ; together with many other valuable records of his illustrious family : — . . . CORNELIVS . LVCIVS . SCIPIO BAR- BATVS GNAIVOD {Gnaeo) PATRE PROGNA- TVS.FORTIS .VIR . SAPIENSQVE QVOIVS {cnjui) FORMA . VIRTVTEI {mrtuti) PARISVMA {'parissima) FVIT . CONSOL . {consul) CENSOR . AIDILIS {(Bdilis) QVEI {qui) FVIT APVD . VOS . TAVRAS^Aw^ CISAVNAm (m)SAMNIO CEPIT . SVBIGIT OMNE LOVCANA (Lucanam) OP- SIDES . QVE (obsidesque) ABDOVCIT {abducif). Several debates arose about the propriety of removing these sepulchral memorials from the original place of their deposit ; and a learned man’ under the assumed title of the poet Ennius, pro- claimed aloud this great discovery, and deprecated its removal, 3fa Ennio parld, e non fu hiteso, and the sarcophagus of Scipio Barbatus, together with the sculptured memorials of the Cornelian family, were removed from their subterraneous recesses to the stately apartments of the Vatican. THROUGH ITALY. 87 On a perusal of these two inscriptions, a striking singularity will be observed in their or- thography ; and the same remark may be made as to many of the others ; particularly, the one recording the memory of Lucius Scipio, which seems to be involved in much obscurity. It would be an endless, and indeed an useless, task for me to note down the many sepulchral memorials that have been discovered on the line of the Appian Way ; but I cannot help mentioning one which was dug up, amongst many others, during my residence at Rome. The generality of sepulchral records, and especially those of the liberti, or persons who have been made free, are of common place construction, and very few breathe any sentiment either of piety or affection, being simple memorials of names and families ; but the following inscription dedicated by a libertus to his conlibertus, a fellow freeman, varies so much in its context from any others within the same, or perhaps any other mausoleum, that I think it worthy of record. It was intended to perpetuate the memory of a. memmivs clarvs, by A. MEMMIVS VRBANVS, his ^ediX C07iHbertus and consors ; who thus exclaims, I am not conscious, my dearest conlibertus, that any dispute hath ever arisen betwixt us ; under this title I call the supe- rior and inferior gods to witness, that we both 88 CLASSICAL TOUR served together in slavery, were made free under one roof, nor could we ever have been parted asunder but by this thy fatal day.” A. MEMMIO CLARO A. MEMMIUS URBANUS CONLIBERTO IDEM CONSORTI CARISSIMO SIBI . INTER ME ET TE SANCTISSIME MI CON- LIBERTE NULLUM UNQUAM DISJURGIUM FUISSE, CONSCIUS SUM MIHI HOC QUO- QUE TITULO SUPEROS ET INFEROS TES- TOR DEOS UNA ME TE CUM CONGRESSUM IN VENALICIO UNA HOMO LIBEROS ESSE FACTOS NEQUE ULLUS UNQUAM NOS DISJUNXISSET, NISI HIC TUUS FATALIS DIES. Another monument of antiquity remains to be mentioned, before we quit the precincts of modern Rome, viz. a triumphal arch, supposed by some authors to have been erected to the honour of Drusus ; and by others to have formed one of the arches of an ancient aqueduct.* It stands just within the Porta di S. Sebastiano, * From Suetonius we learn that an arch of marble, deco- rated with trophies, was decreed by the Roman senate to Drusus, together with the cognomen of Germanicus, Pree- terea senatus inter alia complura marmoreum arcum cum tropasis Vi^ Appi^ decrevit, et Germanici cognomen ipsis posterisque ejus.” — P. 634. THROUGH ITALY. 8ecting the Co- lumbarimi, &c. of the Romans. V THROUGH ITALY. 91 clearly stated, that each of the combatants had a monument erected to him on the spot where he fell, near the Fossa: Clelia, which was between Rome and Albano. This tomb might with greater propriety be ascribed to Pompey, from whose celebrated villa, called Albanum, the modern town might have derived its name, and the pyramids may have alluded to the circumstance of his death in Egypt, from whence his ashes were transported into Italy, and deposited in a mausoleum on the Via Appia. From Albano the ancient road descends into the valley of Aricia, where the magnificent sub- structions of it are still visible ; from thence it ascended to the ColUs Virbii, still known by the name of Colle di Virbio, and then to Genzano and Civita Lavinia. From ^ the Virbian hill a branch of the way descended to the celebrated temple of Diana, situate on the banks of the Lake of Nemi. This hill was in ancient times much frequented by beggars. Dignus Aricinos qui mendicaret ad axes, Blaudaque devexae jactaret basia rhedae j who were induced, probably, to select this station 92 CLASSICAL TOUR for begging, from the general custom of dismount- ing being practised by those who paid their de- votions to the shrine of Diana, out of reverence to the unfortunate Hipolytus. In allusion to this event, Ovid says, Vallis Aricinas sylv^ prsecinctus opac&. Est locus antique, religione sacer. Hie latet Hipolytus loris diremptus equorutn Unde nemus nullis illud aditur equis. We find, also, a similar allusion in Virgil : — • • . versoque ubi nomine Virbius esset Cornipedes arcentur equi, quod littore currum Et juvenem monstris pavidi effudere marinis. When inscriptions throw an historical light on places and events, I shall make no scruple in re- cording them. The following alludes both to the Temple of Diana Arecinia, and to the Collis Verbii, and therefore merits our notice. DIANAE ARECINIAE ET . VIRBIO . SACR . CORP . LVTORVM* APVD . BONAE DEAE * On referring to Pitiscus for the word lutorum, I find another inscription, where it is written lotorum, and which also refers to the goddess Diana Aricina. It is as follows : THROUGH ITALY. 93 SACELfa D . D . SVB CLIVVM . ARICmw/nT . TAEDIVS . SACERDOS SOU ET . BONAE DEAE ET . M . POMPONIVS PATRONms COL- UEGii QVINQVENNa/w II . F . C. (Jieri curavit.) KAL . MARTIS . L . ANNIO VERO . ET . AVR. AVGVRI NO . COS . Hesselius. p. 30. DIANAE . AVG {uSt(E) COELEGiMWl LOTORMWi SACRUM PRIMI- GENIVS . R . P . ARICINORVM . SERUMS ARGMS CVRATOR . II . CVM , M . ARRECINO . GELLIANO . FILIO CVRATORE . T.oicat Bedicat. This collegium, or community, has never before occurred to me ; neither was the first inscription, mentioning the CORPVS LVTORVM known to Pitiscus, for he says, et ne- scio an alibi mentio in, antiguis inonuvnentis. He supposes that the name could only be derived from the word lavare : lotores nonnisi a lavando dictos, vox ipsa suadet. Nor could he satisfactorily explain how the office of this college could be connected with the goddess Diana, verum quid lotonbus commune cum Diand ? This inscription records a de dication made to Diana Aricina, and to Virbius, by the college of Lutores or Lotores, at the sacellum, or chapel of the bona DEA, which was situate sub climm Aricinum, where now stands the modern chapel of S. Maria Stella j and it mentions also the precise period of this dedication, namely, in the year of Rome 873, and of Christ 122, under the consulate of L. Annius Verus, and Aurelius Augurinus. Virbius (qui inter viros bisfuit) is a name given to Hypolitus, after he had been restored to life by .^sculapius, at the instance of Diana, who pitied his unfortunate end. Some suppose that Mscm- lapius was destroyed by Jupiter for having raised Hypolitus to life, who was concealed by Diana in some forest, by the 94 CLASSICAL TOUR From Genzano {olim Cinthianurn) the Via Appia proceeded to Ponte S. Gennaro, leaving Civita Lavinia {Latiumum) to the right. I no- ticed several fragments of granite columns, marble friezes, and cornices, dispersed about the principal stieet of Genzano. Some trifling remains of the station of Sub Lamivio are visible on the left of Ponte S. Gennaro, where this modern inscription commemorates a new and less dangerous road opened to travellers by Pope Alexander VII. Alexander vn. Pont. Max. quod superior] via ascensu aspera et sylvarum periculis esset obnoxia ; novam velitris ariciam usque plaustris aptam aperuit. Restitutis egestd humo veteris appiae pass. u. m. Reliquo tractu complanato, pontibus nexo, et silicibus strato, publicce commoditati ac secu~ ritati. Anno. Sal. mdclxvii. name of Virbius. where he married Arida, and had a son called also Virbms, who supported Turnus in his war against ■^neas. Such is the historical and classical tradition re- specting Virbius and HypoHtus. he deity, under the name of Bona Dea, occurs fre- quently.n ancient history, and Ilind many altars dedicated to tier : the Roman matrons celebrated her festivals by night, with the greatest observance of chastity and decorum, and no male was admitted to the sight of them. Clodius, how- ever, polluted them by his presence, which produced a very severe invective against him by Cicero. THROUGH ITALY. 95 From near Ponte Gennaro, a branch of road diverged to Lanwc'ium on the right, and another to Velletri on the left; and I was told that many vestiges of antiquity still remained at the former place, and amongst them a temple dedicated to Juno. I observed continued traces of the Appian Way on my road to Ponte Gennaro, and also a small piece of the branch that turned off to Velletri : from the aboveraentioned bridge the Via continued its track in a direct line through the plain towards a ruined building called Le Castelle, situated on the left side of the road, and two miles on this side of Cisterna. Two modern authors, the Abb^ Chaupy and Amato, have fixed the station of tres tabernas on this spot. Passing close to Le Castelle^ the pavement is evident, where it penetrates into a thick wood : but it is afterwards lost in die vineyards near Cisterna, which town it leaves to the right, and again becomes visible before it unites itself with the new road lately made from Rome to Naples, near to a place on the right of it called Cancello del Procqjo, where I observed vestiges of an antique edifice. The modern road and the Appian Way now follow the same track throughout the Pomptine Marshes. The next object which attracted my notice was a lofty tower, on the left, called Torre Tibalda^ the foundation of which is antique. 96 CLASSICAL TOUR Further on, there are remains of a more consider- able place, and probably those of the station ad SPONSAS. We now come to the post-house called Torre treponti, where we are gratified with the sight of a Roman bridge, bearing on each parapet the followinginscription, commemorating repairs done by the Emperor Trajan. IMP. C^SAR DIVI NERViE F. NERVA TRAJANUS AUGUSTUS GERMANICUS PONTIFEX MAXIMUS TRIBUNCIA POTESTATE IIII. COS. III. PATER PATRI^ REFECIT. Between this place and the next post-house are many fine fragments of the ancient road, besides several heaps of stones that had originally been used in the formation of it; the bed of which may be seen, and its breadth measured, at a place still called ForoAppio, the Appii forum of the itineraries. Here I observed a broken milliary, with the fol- lowing inscription barely distinguishable, lying near the road side : 0 . N . FLAVIO VALERIO CONSTANTINO PIO FELICI INVICTO AVG. DIVI. CONSTANT TI....PII FILIO L III. THROUGH ITALY. 97 This milliary is inscribed to Valerius Constan- tinus Pius ; and at bottom bears the numerals liii. which do not accord with the tables of the itinerary which amount to lviii miles ; but as this stone is broken, we may suppose that the v is wanting from the iii. There is also another mutilated inscription still standing on the supposed site of appii forvm, ' recording the reparations done to the Appian Way by the Emperors Nerva and Trajan, from Tripon- tiuiu (now Torre tre ponti) to Appii Forum. IMP. C^SAR NERVA . AVG . GERmanicus PONTIFEX . MAX . TRlbunkia POTEST . COS . . . VIAM . A . TRIPVNTIO . AD FORVM . APPI . EX . GLARm SUA . PECVNIA . INCOHAVzY. IMP . ca:sar NERVA . DIVI . NERVAE Trajan VS . AVG. ustus GERMAN lews Tribunicia Potestate. Cos. III. CONSVMAVIT. Between Bocca di jiume and Mesa, I saw remains of the pavement, but no other antiquities. VOL. V. H 9S CLASSICAL TOUR At Mesa, we recognize the station ad me bias, or half-way house. There is an ancient edifice close to the post-house, and probably sepulchral ; it rises in a round form from a square base, and was in good preservation previous to the late reparation of the road, when it was most shamefully mutilated for the sake of its materials. Its form appears to have been singular, contracting itself gradually from the base to the summit, by means of steps, like the Egyptian pyramids. Two other milliaries placed on each side of the post-house at Mesa, remind us of our still following the original track of the Appian Way, and record the repairs done to it by the Emperor Trajan, V IMP. C^SAR. DIVI NERVAi: FILIUS . NERVA . TRA JANUS . AUG . GERMANICUS DACICUS PONT . MAX . TRIB . POT . XIIII . IMP .VT. COS . V .P .P. XVIIII . SILICE SUA PECUNIA. STRAVIT XLVIII. THROUGH ITALY. 99 The first numeral v may possibly refer to the number of new milliaries erected by Trajan, to commemorate his repairs; and those at bottom allude to the number of miles from Rome. But this milestone cari never be supposed to stand in its original place, as, according to the itinerary, the station ad medias would be distant from Rome M p Lxxix, and xxifrom Appii jPorww, and xviii from Terracina. The other milliary was certainly the next on the road to Terracina, being numbered vj at top, and xlviiii at bottom ; but we find, by these examples, that no dependence can be placed on the present situation of the ancient milliaries on this road. Near Ponte Maggiore the antiquities become more frequent, and continue to increase as far as Terracina, where they are very numerous. On the above bridge is one of the many inscriptions com- memorating (like his predecessor at Rome, Trajan) the public acts of the reigning Pope, who has dis- played great skill and activity in endeavouring to drain the Pomptine marshes, and in rendering the track of the Via Appia practicable to modern tra- vellers. piYS . SEXTVS . Pont. Max. a fundamentis restituit an . cioioccLXXix Pontificatus sui v. qui leni resonans prius susurro molli flumine sese augebat Oufens, nunc rapax 100 CLA'SSICAL TOUR Amasenus it, lubensque vias didicisse ait priores, ut sexto gereret pio jubenti morem, neu sibi, ut ante, jure posset viatjor maledicere, aut colonus. A copious spring of water issuing from the mountain immediately by the road side, reminded me of the nymph Feronia, in whose sacred streams the poet Horace and his companions refreshed themselves with ablutions, when proceeding on their journey from Rome to Brundusium. Ora manusque tu&, lavimus, feronia, lymphs j Millia turn pransi tria repimus, atque subimus Impositum latfe saxis caUdentibus anxvr. Near this spot the modern road separates itself from the Appian Way, by deviating on the right to Terracina, the Anxur of antiquity. Here the goddess Feronia had her temple, and her sacred groves ; and here the canal called the Decennomum, which conveyed travellers, and amongst others Horace and his suite, on their journey to Brun- dusium, across the extensive flat of the Pomptine marshes, terminated. At a short distance from the spring before mentioned are the vestiges of a subterraneous aqueduct, and of a round building, apparently sepulchral ; and on the declivity of the mountain to the left are the ruins of other antique structures. THROUGH ITALY. 101 The Appian Way directed its course through the modern town of Terracina, and although much mutilated for a short distance, soon reappears, I may say, in a perfect state, for the distance of two miles, decorated with its usual sepulchral ac- companiments, which are both numerous and stately in their construction. Here we see an in- teresting specimen of the exact formation of the Roman stratum, with the raised foot-path, and cippi, still remaining in their original position. On approaching nearer to the town of Terracina, I passed under a broken arch, which I at first sight imagined to be one of the city gates, but on finding a tomb beyond it, was convinced of my erroneous supposition, as the same custom of not burying within the city prevailed in the provinces as well as in the metropolis. On entering Terracina, we again meet with an inscribed tablet recording the public acts of pivs sextvs, in restoring the Ap- pian Way, in conducting water to the town, and in rendering the air more salubrious, by draining the Pomptine marshes. pio . VI . Pont . Maximo Paludibus Pomptinis ad mare Exstructo aggere, et subact^ fossA, corrivatis. VIA AppiA . restitute, Fonte Cervario h. iv mille passibus TEKRAciNAM deducto, de agrorum ubertate, de aeris salubri- tate, de clvium commodo, optime merito, ordo et populus, in adventu providentissimi Principis 102 CLASSICAL TOUR Pomerium protulit, anno cioiocclxxx ANTONIO CASALio. s . R , E, cardinal!, communium pon- tificiae ditionis praefecto. The Appian Way passed through Terracina, and near to a celebrated temple dedicated to Apollo, of which there are many elegant and splendid remains. From thence it ascended to- wards the Convent of S. Francesco ; between which and the town another inscribed stone re- minds us of the meritorious acts of Pius Sextus. Ex auctoritate D . M . PII . SEXTI . PONT . MAX . Anno. sal. H. oioiocclxxxi ANTONivs . cASALivs . s . B . E . Card. pr£cf. coHimunita- tis .ditionis . pontific. viam appiam veterem intra i. milliare restituendam curavit diverticulo lat. ped. xvni. ad. d. vir- ginis dolor, perducto. Quisquis es, 1 facili gressu per confraga mentis, Et reper acceptum munus id omne pio. A little above this convent there are traces of some ancient walls, and of a gateway : further on are vestiges of another arch, and a range of sepul- chral monuments extending for some distance ; in one of which to the left, but beneath the level of the road, is a small but perfect columbarium^. * Columharium, the deposit for sepulchral urns, was so culled from its resemblance to the interior of a pigeon-house. THROUGH ITALY. 103 having several niches and fragments of sepulchral vases within it. Continuing my ride over the mountains, and enjoying one of the finest views imaginable, I deviated from the track of the Appian Way to the left, in order to visit the Ritiro, a convent of the Passionists, and supposed to occupy the site of a villa once belonging to the Emperor Galba, and in which he was born. Suetonius, in his life, observes, “ ser . galba imperator, M. Valerio Messall4, Cn. Lentulo consulibus natus est viiii Kalend. Januarii in villi colli suppositi prope Terracinam sinistrorsum FUNDOspetentibus.” The situation of the Ritiro corresponds with the above quotation, and the extensive ruins, reservoirs, and subterraneous vaults, which are still percep- tible, most evidently demonstrate the remains of a palace worthy of a Roman emperor. Sepul- chral buildings still continue along side of the road ; and a little beyond the line of the Ritiro on the left, and on the declivity of the mountain, I observed the ruins of another spacious villa constructed with stones of an immense size. The Via again shews itself in its ancient and unim- paired state, flanked with various dilapidated buildings. On the summit of the mountain the native rock has been cut away to form a level surface of considerable dimensions for the passage 104 CLASSICAL TOUR of the road ; and according to the information gained on the spot, this place is known by the name of La Piazza del Paladini. Its situation is beautiful in the greatest degree, commanding, on one side, a view of the sea coast towards Terra- cina ; and on the other, the lake and plains near Fondi, the coast of Sperlonga and Gaeta, which are varied on the land side by a long extended range of beautiful mountains, forming the boundary of a rich and well-cultivated plain. From hence the Appian Way begins to de- scend, but continues in a good state of preser- vation, and antique buildings still accompany it. Amongst them I noticed a small sepulchre on the left side of the road, constructed with the opus rcticulatum^ ; and near it, on the right, are the sub- structions of various great fabrics. Still farther on, to the left, are similar substructions, on which a more modern castle has been erected, which is now in decay. The Appian Way here unites itself with the modern road leading to Naples, within a few paces of a most magnificent building, whose ruins are daily increased by wanton dilapidation. * The opus reticulatum was so called from its style of ma- sonry, in which the stones and bricks were placed in an an- gular direction, so as to resemble net work when extended. THROUGH ITALY. 105 Imperfect traces of the causeway are still visible on the left, with a continuation of old buildings on each side of the road. Adjoining to a modern tower and gateway on the left, is an antique monument, bearing a modern inscription ; and a little farther on the road is another in the same direction. Near this place the traveller is informed by an inscribed stone, that he is on the point of quitting the Papal territories, and entering those of the King of Naples. PHIL . Ill . CATH. Regnante Per. af. Alcalse. Dux pro Rege Hospes ! hie sunt fines Reip. Neap, si amicus advenis, pacata omnia invenies, et malis moribus pulsis, bonas leges. MDLXVIII. Numerous vestiges of tombs, bridges, and other structures continue to attract the traveller’s attention ; and are indeed so frequent between Terracina and Fondi as to bear the resemblance of one extended street or town. We are now led to Fondi, the Fundi of anti- quity, and a station on the Via Appia, which still forms the principal street of the modern town, and the pavement of each petty street bears the same antique appearance. It is thus mentioned by the geographer Cluverius. “ Inter Formianos, Fundanosque montes, erat Caecubus ager, et in ipso oppidum fvndi, juxti, lacus Fundanus.” 106 CLASSICAL TOUR The ager Cacuhus was highly celebrated amongst the Romans for its vines ; and even in more modern times, those made in the neighbourhood of Fondi are held in high repute. Ceecuba Fundanis generosa coquuntur ahenis, Vitis et in medi& nata palude viret. These lines prove that the custom of boiling wines prevailed in ancient, as it still does in modern Italy ; and likewise that the soil was marshy, as it continues at present. Many fragments of antiquity are visible in the environs of Fondi ; several in- scriptions are immured in the walls of houses, &c. A part of the town wall, near the gate leading to Rome, bears a singular appearance, having been constructed with the pavement of the Appian Way. Over the gate called the Portella, which bears evident marks of antiquity, is this inscribed tablet. L . NVMISTRONIVS . L . F . DECIAN . C . LVCIVS . M . F . M . RVNTIVS . L . F . MESS . AEDes . PORTAS . TVRRES . MVRVM . EX . S . C . FACIVND . COERARVNT . EIJDEM- QVE . PROBARVNT. By this record we are informed, that, by the authority of the senate, the buildings, gates, turrets, and walls of the town were repaired by L. Numis- tronius, C. Lucius, and M. Runtius. THROUGH ITALY. 107 The Appian Way seems to have passed di- rectly under the church that is opposite to the Porta Pomona ; many fragments of antique sculp- ture have been employed in the construction of this church, and the stone forming the threshold is a fragment of an ancient cornice. Not far distant from this gate was the Villa di Vitrwoio, the remains of which are insignificant, but the reservoirs of water very considerable ; the spring that issues from the mountain is of the purest quality; and the rock furnishes some cu- rious specimens of petrified bones. Several antiquities have been discovered on this spot, and a |female figure, of no indifferent sculpture, now lies decapitated in a ditch, near the above-mentioned source of water. On a mountain towards the north-east, and at the distance of about a mile from this spring, is an old monument, built in a pyramidical form, upon the summit of which there was formerly a marble ball, which now lies prostrate in the principal street of Fondi, between the post-house and the gate leading to Naples. The inscription, by which we should have ascertained the founder of this singular struc- ture, has been removed. Sunday, November 15. I shall now make a lOS CLASSICAL TOUR short digression from the Via Appia to a place celebiated in history as having been the occasional residence of the Emperor Tiberius^ and rendered interesting by the following anecdote recorded by Tacitus, “ It happened, that in a cavern formed by nature, at a villa called Spelunca, situate between the gulph of Amyclae and the hills of Fondi, Tiberius was enjoying the luxuries of a banquet with a party of his friends, when the stones at the entrance suddenly gave way, and crushed some of the attendants. Sejanus, to protect his master, fell upon his knee, and with his whole force sus- tained the impending weight. In that attitude he was found by the soldiers, who came to relieve the prince*.” * Fortfe illis diebus oblatum Csesaris anceps periculum auxit vana rumoris, prcebuitque ipsi materiem, cur amicitise constantiaeque seiani magis fideret. Vescebatur in vill^ cui vocabulum speluncae, mare Anauclanurn inter Fundanosque monies, nativo in specu. Ejus os, lapsis repentb saxis, ob- ruit quosdam ministrosj bine metus in omhes, et fuga eoruiii qui convivium celebrabrant. Seianvs genu, vultuque, et manibus super Caesarem suspensus, opposuit sese incidenti- bus, atque habitu tali repertus est a militibus, qui subsidio, venerant.” This same event is thus corroborated by another historian, Suetonius. “ Neque Romam amplius adiit, sed paucos post THROUGH ITALY. 109 The modern little village of Sperlonga, situate at a short distance from the cavern, has in a great measure retained the ancient appellation of Spelunca, which still exists as a fine natural cavern, and by the antique decorations remaining within it is proved to be the identical grotto to which Tiberius retired with his attendants. It seems to have been divided into two apartments, the interior one being the most elevated : the natural cavities of the rock on each side were probably formed into rooms, and the lower part of the cavern was ornamented with coloured stucco, and paintings characteristic of its situation, such as aquatic plants, &c. &c. and near the mouth of the cavern there is an appearance of ancient sedilia, or resting seats. This grotto appears to me to have been only an appendage to the more splendid habitation of the Emperor which adjoined it, and which is still distin- guishable amongst its ruins. This conjecture is the more reasonable from the circumstance of a statue of Apollo having been found within a dies, juxta Terracinam in prsetorio cui speluncae nomen erat, incoenante eo, complura et ingentia saxa fortuitd su- pernb delapsa sunt, multisque convivarum et ministorum elisis praeter spem evasit. 110 CLASSICAL TOUR small vaulted chamber, bearing the appearance of a temple, and which is now converted into a Chris- tian chapel. This natural grotto, rendered so in- teresting to the antiquary by the history connected with it, is situated on the verge of the sea coast, under a mountain covered with a variety of odoriferous plants, and directly opposite to the village of Sperlonga, and the point of land near Terracina. A branch of the Appian Way led from Terracina to Sperlonga, and from thence to Gaeta. Between the two former places stood the ancient city of AmyclcEi recorded by the classical writers as having been destroyed by serpents. Its site still retains its pristine name, and its traces are still recog- nizable. Immediately on entering the Seim di Fondi, I perceived remains of ancient buildings on the left side of the road. About three miles from Sperlonga is a piece of water called Lago di Poro, by which (according to tradition) a whole village has been swallowed up, and probably occasioned by some great convulsion of nature. During the summer season, when the waters are less deep, and more transparent, the foundations of buildings are easily perceived. At the distance of about two miles from Sperlonga, that branch of the Appian Way, which I have before mentioned, crosses the THROUGH ITALY, 111 modern road, and ascends the hills towards Gaeta*, leaving Sperlonga somewhat to the right. Be- neath these mountains and the road I noticed several fragments of antique buildings, in one of which there were two long arched passages stuc- coed on their sides, also great substructions of large stones. Let us now return to our quarters at Fondi, and resume our journey on the Appian Way. A milliary marked with the numerals lxxiii is now standing at the entrance gate into the town : but this could never have been its original situation, as the distance from Rome to Fondi, according to Antonine’s Itinerary, would amount to cxiii miles ; the distance from Terracina to Capua would better accord, being lxxiv miles ; but it is generally sup- posed that all the public roads were numbered pro- gressively from Rome. Leaving Fondi, and its majestic castle, on my route towards Naples, my attention was shortly * During my residence at Mola di Gaeta, I had an op- portunity of ascertaining the course of this ancient road across the mountains. It bears the vulgar appellation of La strada del Diavolo, the Devil’s road^ as in England some of the Roman roads are now called, the Devil’s dyke or ditch, Grymsditch, &c. &c. il2 CLASSICAL TOUR arrested by a long wall of opus reticulatimi on the left, in which I observed the indented impression of the following large proportioned letters. V. VARONIANVS. P . I . F . C. The letters had been inlaid, like Mosaic, in the wall, with tesserce of mrde antique; the greater part of which have been picked out, leaving only their impressions. A modern inscription over an entrance gate erected in the year 1519, attributes this villa to one Varro. Varronianum restitu turn P. F. de Soderinis Car, Vulterranum. An. MDXix. Above this villa, on the left, are the remains of . an old church, and near to it the substructions of an ancient edifice, vulgarly called 11 tempio d'Ercoky or the temple of Hercules ; they comprehend a large square piece of ground, and are composed of very large stones cut in the shape of diamonds. From hence the Appian Way prosecutes its course in a straight line to Ponte S. Andrea ; during which interval of four miles I observed the fragments of two or three defaced milliaries, and THROUGH ITALY. US of several antique edifices on each side of the road. This modern bridge, repaired in the year 1568, by the Duke of Alcala, in the reign of Philip II. is built upon the foundations of the' more ancient one, some small portion of which still remains. A continuation of ruined buildings, on each side of the road, attracted my attention ; those on the right appear to be of the most remote date, but on descending into the bed of the river, those on the left appeared to great advantage; their foundations are composed of large stones wonder- fully well united without cement, and their situ- ation over a precipice, at the base of which rolls a torrent, is truly picturesque. These ruins, con- sisting chiefly of immense subterraneous vaults, bear the appellation of Le Diane. The Via Appia now begins to ascend the hills, and its vast substructions and parapets are conti- nually visible. The remains of ancient buildings still continue to keep the traveller’s eye upon the look-out, as far as Itri ; but none are particularly worthy of notice. On the left are some ancient reservoirs, and a wall constructed with Appian stones : further on, to the right, is a round edifice in ruins, and near it a long piece of reticulated wall, as well as a modern one, built with the flag- stones of the Appian pavement. VOL. V, I 114 CLASSICAL TOUR Descending into the plains of Itri, I observed, under the mountain, to the left, some fragments of an antique structure, amongst which some niches and reservoirs are distinguishable. Leaving Itri, where the scenery is picturesque, particularly a bridge, &c. my attention was directed to an old reservoir, built with very large blocks of stone ; it is situated on the left, and a little above the road, amidst a grove of olive trees. Shortly afterwards, on the left, I noticed an ancient milliary, bearing the inscribed numerals of lxxxiii, which, like the one at Fondi numbered lxxiit, cannot be reconciled with the Itinerary of the Appian Way. Having continued my course on the great road for some small distance, I turned oflF, by a stony path, to the left, for the purpose of examining some mins at a place called S. Martino, and in my way thither I discovered, amongst olive trees, some con- siderable remains, and a fine arch with its cornice, constructed with immense stones, and entirely perfect. This relic is rendered particularly pictu- resque by a tree growing in the centre, and di- viding the arch. The mins at S. Martino are situated at some height upon the mountain, but do not deserve much notice; they led me, however, to the dis- covery of the arch, which is a singular fragment of antiquity, and I believe, but little known. Re- THROUGH ITALY. U5 turning to my old and ancient track, I observed, on the left, a part of another milliary immured in a modern wall, and its number concealed; soon afterwards a sepulchral inscription, lying by the road side, met my eye ; and two others placed in a modern wall, with their letters inwards. Antiquities still increase as we proceed onward towards Mola. Near a lofty round tower, to the right of the road, there is an ancient Fzfl, leading between two walls towards the sea coast ; a branch of the Appia, which, though now covered with earth, or destroyed, was well remembered by my guide. Opposite to this road is another sepulchral inscription, immured within a wall, close to the gate of a vineyard ; and near it, the tomb, perhaps, to which it originally belonged. A little further on the left is another sepulchral edifice, within a vineyard ; and opposite to it the lofty round building before-mentioned, which is called “theTower of Ci- cero.” On recalling to our recollection the history of this illustrious orator, an involuntary sigh is heaved to his memory, for here he spent many a social hour, and here he fell by the hands of a vile assassin. On the opposite hill are the ruins of a pyramidical structure, vulgarly called, “ II fuso della torre di Cicerone,” and beneath it are some reservoirs for water. 116 CLASSICAL TOUR These buildings, as well as the site of Cicero’s Formianum, have been the subject of much con- troversy amongst the authors who have described this particular district; amongst whom I shall name Pratilli, Gesualdo, and the Abbb Capmartin de Chaupy. Gesualdo, in his criticisms on the works of Pratilli, has designated the pyramidical building as the tomb of Cicero, and the sepulchral edifice on the left of the road as his epitaffio ; and he supposes the round tower to have been an ornamental fabric within his Formian villa : he agrees with Chaupy in fixing the Formianum on this spot ; but the Abb^ imagines that the round edifice was a temple dedicated to Apollo, which was known to have existed within the said villa. This circular tower rises from a square base, con- structed with large stones, and has its entrance towards the sea coast. It was enclosed by a stone wall of opus reticulatum, which was covered by a bold cornice of stone, and from it an exit led through a gate into the high road : the vestiges, also, of a small Via leading to the monument are still visible. Returning to the Appian Way I observed an- other milliary immured in a wall, and other reser- voirs for water under the mountain. The ruins of antique buildings now cease on the right hand side THROUGH ITALY. 117 of the road, but increase on the left, bearing the appearance of sepulchral edifices. To the left of the first bridge there are traces of another narrow Via, which has been noticed by Chaiipy ; a little on the other side of the bridge there are consider- able ruins, and amongst them a lofty octangular tower. On one of these ruined edifices was the following inscription, but it has been lately re- moved, and is now lying at the entrance to the Villa Marsana at Castellone. Q. GISVITIUS . Q . L . PHILOMUSUS MAJOR. Q. GISVITIUS. Q. L . PHILOMUSUS MINOR. M. VITRUVIUS. M.L. DEMETRIUS, ET VI- TRUVIA CHRESTE . M . VITRUVIUS M . S . .... TEMA. The Abb^ Chaupy has written a long disser- tation upon this inscription, and supposes it to have arisen from the death of Cicero. “ Celui dont il s’agit est done un monument eleve non pour, mais par les affranchis de Ciceron, et comme il n’a et6 elev6 par eux que dans I’epoque de la mort de leur maitre, il s’ensuit visiblement que cette mort en a et6 I’object. From this first bridge to the second, called Riw Alto, where another inscription records the repairs done in the year 1568, by the Duke of Alcala, a US CLASSICAL TOUR continued range of buildings, apparently sepul- chral, presents itself on the left side of the road. The interior of one immediately preceding the oct- angular tower is in a very high state of preservation, having its columbarium perfect, and many of the funereal urns remain unbroken, and unimpaired by time, in their original recesses. Oh the front of this structure, as also on the former one, a vacant space indicates the place of the inscription ; and I cannot hut lament the barbarous practice of strip- ping every antique monument of its recording tablet, which, when removed, becomes an useless piece of lumher, and if left, would throw most im- portant light on many, now obscure, historical events. Remains of an old bridge over the Appian Way appear on the right, and beneath it is a second bridge, but of a more modern construction. We now enter Castellone, and the commencement, probably, of the ancient city of Formice. From this spot to the end of Mola di Gaeta we find an uninterrupted succession of antiquities. Those on the right hand of the road are the most conspi- cuous : the first belong to the Villa Patrizi, close to an antique bridge ; then follow those of the Villa Marsana ; afterwards those of the Villa Albiti ; and lastly, those near Mola, which are vul- garly called the Villa of Cicero. Over all these the THROUGH ITALY. 119 Villa Marsana justly claims the pre-eminence, both on account of its antique edifices, and the inscribed records which it possesses ; but which, alas, have been removed from those monuments they were originally intended to elucidate. Amongst them are the following. No. 1. L . VARRONIO . L . F . PAL. CAPITON^. SCRIBAE A:DILIC. ACCENSO VELATO . II. VIRO QUINQUEN . CURATORI AQUARUM . PATRONO COLONIAE . ORDO REGALIUM quorum HONORE CONTENTUS SUA PE- CUNIA POSUIT. L . D . D . D . No. 2. L . BRUTTIO . L . F . PAL. CELERI . EQUO . PUBLIC . PR^F . COH . III. AUG. THRAC. EQUIT. L.BRUTTIUS.PRIMITIVUS PATER ET INSTEIA MATER FILIO OPTIMO P . S. P.L.D.D.D*. * I shall not decypher the various and numerous inscrip- tions, which, during my tour through this classical district of Italy, I shall have occasion to notice, except when expla- nation may lead to some particular information} but shall refer my readers to “ Gerardi Siglarium,” a work in which all the abbreviations that generally occur are most fully explained. 120 CLASSICAL TOUR No. 3, A PLAUTIUS THEODORI . L . APELLA MAG. AUGUSTALIS . PLAUTIAE . A . LIB. RUFAE . CONLIBERT. CONCUBIN. PIAE . PLAUTIAE ET 0 L . FAUSTAE . LIB . ET . M . PLAU C . VIBIO . PULCHRO . AUG No. 4. ARRIO SALANO PRAEF. QUINQ.TI.CAESARIS. PRAEF. QUINQ NERONIS ET DRUSI CAESARra DESIGN ATO . TUB . SAC . PR . iEDILI III AUGURI INTERREGI TRIBUN. MILITUM LEG iTl AUGUSTI LEG X GEMINAE . PRA^F . EQUITUM . PRA:F . CASTRORUM . PRA:F . FABRUM OPPIA UXOR No. 5. C N MEVIUS .... SANTEROS AUGUST C N MEVIUS .... FELIX AUG C N MEVIUS .... FELIX MAGNAR AUG C N MEVIUS .... AMARANTHUS AUG. When I first passed through Castellone, in the year 1785,1 remember to have seen the inscription to Arrius affixed to the wall of a convent that is opposite to the Villa Marsana. The Abb^ Chaupy THROUGH ITALY. 1^21 notices it, and thinks that it might have ascertained the site of the villa of Arrius ; who, according to the words of Cicero, was his near neighbour. Arrius mcinus est proximus ; and Sebethus was his neigh- bour on the opposite side. jEcce Sebethus ex altera parte. The Abb^ places the residence of the latter near Mola, and that of Cicero at the Villa Marsana, where there are splendid remains of terraces, subterraneous vaults, baths, and grottos. One of these resembles a temple, and from the singularity of its plan deserves more attention than the rest. A copious spring of most excellent water has been conducted through another of these buildings ; its source is unknown, and the owner of the villa says, that for six or seven generations the supply of water had never failed. In walking through these gardens, I noticed a stone bearing the following inscription, but I rather question its antiquity. BACCHUS ET POMONA, VIT^ RESTAURATORES. The grottos display great skill in their con- struction ; some have been ornamented with shells, others with stucco moulded into different shapes and designs ; and the ceilings are divided into compartments. The next villa in Castellone belongs to the 13 ^ CLASSICAL TOUR Cavaliere Albiti, and contains many extensive and elegant ruins, which in some respects bear stronger marks of antiquity than those in the Villa Marsana, especially in some substructions of great stones beneath a fine grove of ilex, which feathers down to the sea shore ; but the objects in this villa most deserving of attention, are five grottos on the coast, in one of which a most beautiful stuccoed ceiling remains in a high state of preservation. The others claim equal merit in point of execution, but have suffered from the ravages of time. The si- tuation of this villa is rendered truly delightful by a beautiful avenue of ilex, which forms a terrace pending over the sea. The third villa is the one immediately conti- guous to the town of Mola di Gaeta, and has for many years obtained the vulgar credit of being the one possessed by Cicero. If we allot to this cele- brated orator the most splendid villa, we shall make him the inhabitant of the villa Marsana ; if of the apparently most ancient one, we shall fix his resi- dence at the Villa Albiti ; but if of the most indif- ferent one of the three, shall allot to him the villa nearest to Mola. I am inclined to think that the Formiamim of Cicero was the most magnificent demesne on this coast, for he says, “ Basilicam habeo, non villam.” But for want of the tabula inscripta, it is impossible, in our days, to ascertain THROUGH ITALY. 123 the original possessor of any antique mansion, and especially in a district so abounding with fragments of remote antiquity. To investigate this interesting line of coast with ease and advantage, the traveller should hire a boat, and coast along the shore where the foundations of many antique edifices are visible on the shore that is inundated by the sea. A few words must be added respecting an ancient Via, which I before noticed as leading from Formiae to Caieta, now Gaeta. Though few remains of it have resisted the lapse of time, it is well known to have passed along the sea coast, and to have descended to it nearly in the same direction as the modern road near the bridge of Rivo Alto. I have before remarked, that I per- ceived no remains of antique fabrics on the right of the road from the Torre di Cicerone to the afore- said bridge, but I noticed several near the sea coast in that direction, one of which Gesualdo pronounces to have been the Temple of Apollo, within the Formianum ; and a little farther, near Pontone, he places the fountain of Artasia, men- tioned by Homer, and which Cluverius fixes near the gate of Mola, leading towards Naples ; but the springs of water issuing from the adjoining mountains, and passing through Castellone and Mola towards the sea, are as frequent as the villas, and equally difficult to be rightly ascertained. 1^4 CLASSICAL TOUR Soon afterwards, the road from Itri to the sea shore becomes visible, and is known by the title of SpciTtitOTC cl Itvi / it was formerly a branch from the Appian Way. Immediately on the other side of this Via, I perceived the mins of a magnificent villa, project- ing towards the sea, with extensive reservoirs for water, and vaulted passages, in one of which is a stuccoed ceiling, somewhat resembling the one before mentioned in the Villa Albiti, but not in an equal state of preservation. Gesualdo assigns this villa to one Philippus, who is frequently mentioned by Cicero. Vi sono le maravigliose reliquie della famosa villa di M. Filippo marito di Azia, figlia di M. Azio Balbo pretore, e di Giulia sorella di Giulio Cesare. Quando fu sposata da M. Fil- lippo, ella era vedova di C. Ottavio, con cui aveva procurato Ottavio Augusto, e con esso genero L. Filippo di lui fratello uterino, con cui fu allevato.” The next ruins that appear are near a place called Conca, where there are extensive vestiges of another magnificent villa. Its pristine owner has not yet been ascertained ; but by the same spirit of conjecture, which is very fertile and prevalent on this coast, it has been allotted both to Cicero and the Emperor Hadrian. The road from hence to THROUGH ITALY. 125 Gaeta affords a continual succession of antique fabrics, and proves the very great population of this delightful bay, so well described by the poet Martial. O temperatae dulce Formiae littus ! From the borgo preceding the city of Gaeta, I ascended a hill on the right to view a large antique structure vulgarly called the windmill, or II molino h mnto. Both Pralilli and Gesualdo have at- tributed it, as well as the adjoining ruins, to Lucius Atratinus, and with some ground of plausibility, as a stone inscribed l. atratin was amongst those taken away from thence to the cathedral dedicated to S. Erasmo. Its form is circular, both on the outside and in the interior : between the inner and outward circle there is a passage. The interior is divided into three apartments, besides which there is a reservoir for water, of an oval form. A number of antique columns, varying in their sizes and proportions, which have been brought hither from other edifices, render the church of S. Erasmo very antiquated in its appearance. The neighbouring cities of Formice and Mlnturn(2 have, probably, furnished the greater part of these de- corations, which are almost on the eve of being 126 CLASSICAL TOUR again buried under ruins, as the foundations of the structure are in a very tottering condition. Strong buttresses are now building, and the columns are casing with a wall of masonry, which will convert them into heavy pilasters. The most remarkable object of antiquity within these sacred walls, and which highly deserves the notice of every lover of fine sculpture, is the baptismal font, formerly a vase of Grecian workmanship, and admirable both for its elegant form and able execution. It re- presents, in bas relief, the story of the infant Bacchus conveyed by Mercury to be educated by Leucothea ; and it claims additional intere.st from having the name of its artist, Salpion the Athe- nian, engraved upon it in Greek characters Other and more magnificent relics of antiquity claim our further attention on a hill that overlooks the town of Gaeta, whose summit is crowned by the stately mausoleum of Munatius Plancus, bearing the modern appellation Torre d' Orlando, It resembles in its architecture, and rivals in grandeur, the mausoleum, mentioned in a former part of my travels, of Cecilia Metella, at * I was so much pleased with this design, that, from an accurate drawing made from the original, I had the bas relief executed on a chimney-piece for my picture gallery at Stonr- head. THROUGH ITALY. 127 Capo di Bove, near Rome. Each is circular in its form, and each most fortunately preserves its original sepulchral inscription. Its frieze is deco- rated with has reliefs, representing warlike trophies ; and its construction, with large blocks of marble, is admirable. The following inscription records the memory and warlike actions of the illustrious personage to whose honour it was erected. L . MUNATIUS L . F . L . N . L . PRON . PLANCUS . COS . CENS . IMP . ITER . WL . VIR . EPUL . TRIUMPH . EX . ROETIS . AEDEM SATURNI FECIT DE MANIB . . . S AGROS DIVISIT IN ITALIA . BENEVEN- TI . IN GALLIA COLONIAS DEDUXIT LUGDUNUM ET RAURICAM. The villa of the afore-commemorated Munatius Plancus is suppo sed to have been situated near the church of La Trinit^, above which are five large reservoirs for water, in a perfect state of preser- vation. Near this church a singular antiquity of nature is visible in a rock of an immense height, which, by some great convulsion, has been split asunder from top to bottom. A chapel has been built between the fissures, in descending to which two objects attract the curiosity of the stranger : a cannon-ball fired from a Turkish vessel, and still adhering to the spot where it first lodged ; and the apparent impression of a human hand in the rock, 1^8 CLASSICAL TOUR said to be that of a Turk, who disbelieved the fissure of the rock being effected at the Passion of Christ. Under it are the following lines : — Improba mens verum renuit, quod fama fatetur Credere, at hoc digitis saxa liquata probant. Let us now, after this interesting digression, per duke Formice littus, return to our old track, and endeavour to develop the further course of the Via Appia. On quitting Mola, the continuation of antique buildings, apparently sepulchral, is re- sumed, and they become very frequent on the left side of the road as far as the bridge of S. Croce. One of these, from its superior height, appears to have been a structure of some consequence ; but, like its companions in ruin, has been stripped of its marble facing. 1 noticed on the same side of the road another defaced milliary, and a desolated village, whose name savours strongly of antiquity, though its buildings bear a modern appearance. Being called Mamurrano, we may presume that it derived its name from the family of Mamurra, to whom a great portion of this district formerly belonged. Horace, in his journey to Brundusium, says nothing of Formice, but mentions the city of the Maynurrce. In Mamurrarum lassi tlescendimus urbem, Muren^ proebente domum, Capitone culinam. THROUGH ITALY. 129 An ancient building upon an eminence to the right, and about two miles distant from the road, now attracted my attention. The hill bears the name of Monte Giano, and the adjoining coast that of La Spiaggia di Gianola ; both derived probably from the deity Janus, who is said to have had a temple dedicated to him on that spot. There are still existing remains of an old edifice on the summit of the hill, with large vaults and reservoirs under the mountain, near the sea shore. One of these buildings, owing to the number of square columns that support it, has gained the appellation of the grotto of thirty-six pillars. La Grotta di trenta sei colonne, but of which I could only reckon thirty-two. It appeared to me to have been originally formed for a reservoir of water, the first necessary, the sine qua non of the Romans. Still farther on the same coast is a tower called Scaulo, and the vestiges of several ancient buildings, supposed to have been attached to a villa of Emilius Scaurus, who was several times elected consul, who triumphed over the Ligurians, and who, during the period of his censorship, built the Milvian bridge over the river Tiber near Rome, and opened and paved the Via Emilia^ after the manner of the Appian. Between the Ponte S. Croce, and the paper mills at Scaulo, I observed but few antiquities, but beyond the latter VOL. v. K 130 CLASSICAL TOUR place, several ; none, however, worthy of particular attention. Shortly afterwards, an aqueduct leading from Trajetto, situate upon an eminence to the left of the celebrated city of Minturnae, and a variety of other antique ruins, made their appearance. The most remarkable of these are the aqueduct, which traverses the modern road, and an amphitheatre built with brick, which forebodes a speedy decay, as workmen were employed in breaking down its walls for the sake of the materials. Near the river are the vestiges of another large structure, which appears to have been semi-circular, as there are remains still visible of a large vaulted roof in that form. There are, besides, several smaller apartments exposed to the road side ; and many other mouldering relics attest the former existence of an extensive population on this ground. Here stood the city of MiniurncE, one of the stations on the Appian Way ; and rendered interesting to us, even though in ruins, by the local history? and classical anecdotes connected with it. In traversing a country like Italy, the tourist should not only see, but also reflect, and the mind should have its enjoyment as well as the eye. The plea- sure derived from travelling in this classical country is very considerably enhanced by the re- collection of those events that transpired on such or such a spot, and which have been thought worthy of record in the annals of history. Many THROUGH ITALY. ISl a situation, otherwise unworthy of attention, thus becomes in the highest degree interesting; even the infectious marshes of Minturnae will claim from the traveller a short attention during his progress, when he traverses the classical river Liris, and recollects that to these marshes the unfortunate Caius Marius, the proud victor of Carthage, fled for secresy, and was drawn forth from this melancholy hiding-place by his pursuers, and unfeelingly delivered up to the magistrates of the neighbouring city of Minturnae. “ Extractus inde, et lutulentiis atque nudus, Minturnasque deductus, magistratibus ibi traditus.” How very pathetically and concisely has the poet Juvenal, in his tenth satire, summed op the declining fate of this illustrious hero : — Exilium et career, Minturnarumque paludes, Et mendicatus, vict&, Carthagine, panis. The history of this renowned warrior is so connected with the ground I am now endeavouring to describe, and holds forth so strong an example of the reverse of fortune, that I must once more crave the liberty of digressing from the direct line of my Iter. During the intestine divisions with which 132 CLASSICAL TOUR Rome was agitated in the year of Rome 664, Marius and Sylla were the great rivals for supreme power. Fortune at this period favoured the latter, and Marius was obliged to fly from Rome. He pursued his voyage along the coast of Italy, and on passing by Terracina, he desired the mariners to keep clear of that place, being apprehensive of falling into the hands of one Geminius, a leading man in that district. Overtaken by a storm, and Marius being indisposed, they determined to make land, and with great difficulty got to Circaeum*, where they suffered much for want of provisions. The land was their enemy, the sea was the same : it was dangerous to encounter men : it was dan- gerous also not to meet with them, because of their extreme want of provisions. In the evening they were cautioned to depart by some herdsmen, who recognized Marius, and informed him that a body of horsemen were riding about in search of him. After wandering among the woods, and nearly famished, he moved down to the sea side, encouraging his attendants not to forsake him ; and they Were at no great distance from the city of Minturnae, when they observed at a considerable distance a troop of horse coming towards them ; * Monte Circello, which I visited during a former tour in the year 1786. THROUGH ITALY. 133 and at the same time two barks appeared sailing near them ; upon which they ran down to the sea shore, plunged into the sea, and swam towards the ships, into one of which Marins was with difficulty lifted. The party of horse soon reached the coast, and called to the ship’s crew either to put ashore, or to throw Marius overboard. The masters of the vessels, after much entreaty and deliberation, agreed not to deliver up Marius ; upon which the soldiers rode off in a great rage, and the sailors made for land. They cast anchor at the mouth of the river Liris, where it overflows, and forms a marsh ; then advised Marius to refresh himself on shore till the wind became more favourable. But the crew never re-appeared, and the vessel sailed away, thinking it neither honourable to deliver up Marius, nor safe to protect him. Thus, deserted by all the world, he sat a good while on the shore in silent stupefaction ; at length, recovering himself, he rose, and walked disconso- late, through a wild and marshy country, till he reached an old man’s cottage. Throwing himself at his feet, he requested shelter, and an asylum from impending danger. The cottager replied, “ that his hut would be sufficient, if he sought only repose ; but if he was wandering to elude the search of his enemies, he would hide him in a place much safer and more retired.” Marius de- siring him to do so ; the old man took him into 134 CLASSICAL TOUR the fens, to a place of secresy, and covered him with a quantity of reeds. But these obliging precautions did not escape the vigilance of his pursuers, who threatened the cottager for having concealed an enemy of the Romans. Marius being disturbed by a tumultuous noise from the cottage, and suspecting the cause, quitted his cavern, and having stripped himself plunged into the marsh ; from whence his pursuers hauled him out, carried him to Minturnae, and delivered him up to the magistrates ; who, after some deliberation, finally decided that Marius should be put to death. No citizen would under- take this office ; a Gaul, or a Cimbrian, proceeded sword in hand to dispatch his victim. The chamber in which Marius was confined was gloomy, and a light, they say, glanced from the eye of Marius upon the face of the assassin, while at the same time a solemn voice exclaimed, “ Dost thou dare to kill Marius ?” Upon which the soldier threw down his sword and fled, crying, “ I cannot kill Marius.” The people of Minturnae were struck with astonishment ; pity and remorse ensued. Should they put to death the preserver of Italy ? Was it not even a disgrace to them, that they did not contribute to his relief? Let the exile go, said they, and await his destiny in some other region ! THROUGH ITALY. 135 It is time we should deprecate the anger of the gods for having refused the poor naked wanderer the common privileges of hospitality ! Under the influence of this enthusiasm they immediately conducted him to the sea coast. Yet in the midst of their expedition, an unforeseen delay was occa- sioned, for the Sylm Maricce, or Marician Grove, was held so sacred, that nothing entering it was suffered to be removed ; and to go round it would be tedious. At last an old man of the company exclaimed, “ that no place, however religious, ■was inaccessible, if it could contribute to the safety of Marius:” upon which he took some of the baggage in his hand, and marched directly through the grove. His companions followed with the same alacrity, and when Marius came to the sea coast, be found a vessel in readiness to receive him. After having driven about by the violence ot the winds to various islands, he at length landed at Carthage, where he was immediately thus accosted by an officer, Marius, the Praetor Sextilius forbids you to set foot in Africa. Marius on hearing this was struck dumb with grief and in- ^ dignation. He uttered not a word for some time, but stood regarding the officer with a me- nacing aspect. At length when he was asked “ what answer he should carry back to the go- vernor?” “ Tell him,” said the unfortunate man. 136 CLASSICAL TOUR with a deep sigh, that thou hast seen the exiled Marius, sitting upon the ruins of Carthage thus, in the happiest manner proposing the fate of that city, and his own, as warnings to the praetor. As no other circumstance in this warrior’s concluding life is connected with the track of country I am now investigating, I shall return to the site of Minturnae, and record some sepulchral memorials, which I had the good fortune to see soon after their disinterment, and before their removal to the Royal Museum at Naples. No. I. L . BURBULEIO . L . F . Q . VIR OPTATO LIGARIANO . COS . SODAL . AUG . LEG . IMPERAT . ANTONINI . AUG . PII . PRO . PR . PROV . SYRI^.IN QUO HONOR. DECESSIT. LEG. EJVS.DEMET.DIVI.HADRIANI.PR.PR.PROV. CAPPAD.CURO.PER.LOCOR.PUBL.PRAEF. ^RAR . SATURN . PROCOS . SICIL.LOGISTE . SYRIiE . LEGAT . LEG .iLYl. FL . E.I.R.M.CUR. REIP.NARBON.ITEM ANCONITANOR.ITEM TARRIC.IN.CURAT.VIAR.CLODIAE.CASSIAE CIMINIAE . PR . AED . PL . iT. PONTI ET BITHYN . TRIB . LATI . CL . LEG . IX . HISPAN, iTl VIR KARIT . PATRI COLL. RESINIA PIETAS NUTR . FILIARUM EJUS S.P.P. L.D.D.D. THROUGH ITALY. 1ST No. 2. BAEBIAE . P . F . PRISON . P . PA- TROPHILI . T . NUMISIUS NUMISIANUS M^CENATIANUS PONENDAM MANDAVIT L.D.D.D No. 3. POMPEIAE Q . F . CATULL^ SACERD . AUGUST . DECR . DEC . REMISSA PEC . PUBL . C . TRUTTELTUS PIUS FILIUS D.D.D The first is both long, perfect, and interesting, as it records the gratitude of Resinia to L. Burbu- leius, whose daughters she had educated, and who, at her own expense, erected this monumental record. The second records a tribute paid by T. Nu- misius Numisianus to the memory of Baebia Prisca : and the third a like sepulchral memorial raised by C.Truttelius to his mother Pompeia. Though all writers agree in placing Minturn<^ on the banks of the river Liris, now the Garig- liano, yet they do not coincide as to its extent. Sanfelice, in his treatise on the Campania, says that this city was formerly divided by the river Glanis 13S CLASSICAL TOUR (afterwards the Liris) ; and that a bridge of com- munication existed on the same spot where the ferry is now placed : Minturnas, Romanorum colo- niam, is olim dividebat Glanicus antea vocatusj dimidiatique corporis alteram nobis tribuebat par- tem, Latinis alteram. Ponte iitraque ejus ripa jiingebatur eo loco, ubi, fluviali scaphd, trajiciuntur viatores.” Pratilli also is of the same opinion, but is combated by Gesualdo, who, in the following passage, attributes a different situation to the ancient bridge. “ La Via Appia venendo da Roma, cammina per verity a drittura della scafa ; m^ giunta nella punta dov^ termina I’acquidotto, quasi due tiri di schioppo distante del fiume. Piega k sinistra, scorgendosi patentemente il letto, o sieno fondamenti, benche non coverti di selci ; e tra- versando dopo un piccol’ tratto sopra tre arcate fatte in un terreno basso per appianarla, arriva al fiume ; o rio del Aufente, il quale scaturisce dall antica citta di Ausonia, e si scarica nel Garigliano in piccola distanza dalla scafa ; e in quello, dall’ una e I’altra riva veggonsi i fondamenti dell’ antico ponte di cento palmi di lunghezza, d^ me misu- rati ; corrispondendo la sua situazione in mezzo della citt^ di Minturna, e ivi I’Appia congiungeasi. cio conobbi di seguir la medesima il suo corso per la destra riva del Garigliano ; onde, dentrd di una barchetta, feci condurmi all’ insu di esso per THROUGH ITALY. 139 veder dove tertninasse la via, e dopo due miglia di caramino giunsi nel luogo chiamato I’Epitaffio*, in cui il fiume quasi la raet^ si restringe, non es- sendo largo pin di palmi 110; e ivi dall una e I’altra sponda ritrovai i gran fondamenti del ponte che lo tra versa va. Trapassato il ponte, lAppia proseguiva il suo camraino verso Sessa per la stessa reggia via or^ battuta, dinotandolo mani- festamente i ponti, e monti tagliati, ch^ s incon- trano in alcuni luoghi, tutte opere degli antichi Romani.” — Gesualdo, p. 477. By the conclusion of this extract, in which this writer says, that, having crossed the bridge, the Appian Way directed its course towards Sessa, it is very evident that he has mistaken the line of that celebrated way, which bore away considembly more to the right, and pointed towards the sea coast. The Via which he observed, and which I have myself seen, was one that probably diverged from the Appian near Minturnae, and passing through Sessa, joined the Latin Way at Teano. * The monument having the title of Epitaffio has been robbed of its inscription, which probably recorded, in the usual manner, the repairs done to the bridge by the Duke of Alcala, or some of the Aragonese kings, as some of their escutcheons still remain. 140 CLASSICAL JOUR Neither can I agree with Sanfelice in placing the city of Minturnse on each side of the Liris, for I could not observe the slightest traces of residence on that side of the river nearest Naples, nor could find any signs of a bridge on the site of the present ferry ; but on crossing the river, I observed evi- dent fragments of a paved way, at the distance of a few paces from the castle, which is constructed with stones resembling those which were com- monly made use of for the substructions and pa- rapets of the Appian Way. From Minturnae the Via Appia directed its course to the next station at Sinuessa, which is supposed to have been situated on a point of land near the sea coast, under the Rocca di Mondrapone. From a passage in one of Cicero’s Epistles to Atticus, relating one of his journeys from Sinuessa to his country seat at Arpinum, we learn that there was a bridge at Minturnse, called Rons Twetius, at which place a road diverged from the Appia to- wards Arpinum, from which road it turned off^ to the right*. O casum mirificum ! cum ante * We learn from the following iter of Antonine, that a branch of road issued from the Appia at Minturnae, and di- rected its course to Beneventum, through the following stations. A Minturnis Teano mp. xviii. — Alifas xvii. — Telesia xxv. — Benevento xviii. THROUGH ITALY. 141 lucem de Sinuessano surrexissem venissemque diluculo ad pontem Tiretiurn, qui est Minturnis, in quo flexus est ad iter Arpinas, obviam fuit iiiihi tabellarius Appiam ad sinistrarn habentem and this road, I conclude, was the one mistaken by Gesualdo for the Appian Way. But- before I take my leave of this district, something must be said about the Liris and the Sylva Maricd. This river, which was formerly distinguished by the names of Glanis and Liris, is now known by that of Garigliano. Its original source seems to be near Valmontone; at V Isola di Sara it receives the streams of the Fibrenus, then flows down to Minturnae, from whence passing through the woody reigions of Marica, it empties its waters in the ocean : — delabitur inde Vulturnusque celer, nocturnaeque editor auree Sarnus, et umbrosae Liris per regna Maricae. And the poet Claudian adds, flavaeque terens querceta Maricae Liris. The^ geographer, also, alludes to the course of the Liris, and the sacred groves of Marica. “ Inter Formias et Sinuessam sunt Minturnae, quas per- 143 CLASSICAL TOUR fluit Liris amnis : is, ab Apenninis montibus, et Vestino agro delapsus, pi*aeter Fregellas, in lucum sacrum exit, infra Minturnas situra, quern religi- ossime colunt Minturnenses.” This river has had the characters of co^ruleus and taciturnns attributed to it. Coeruleus nos Liris amat, quern sylva Maricae Protegit, Martial. Rura, quae Liris, quiets Mordet aqu^, taciturnus amnis. H GRACE. The same attribute of tranquillity has been given to it by the poet Silius Italicus in the fol- lowing lines : — Et Liris nutritus aquis, que fonte quieto Dissimulat cursum, ac nullo niutabilis imbre, Perstringit tacitas gemmenti gurgite ripas. These classic writers must have availed them- selves of the poetical license, which is allowed them, in their descriptions of the river Liris* I have spent many days on its delightful banks at Sora, where its colour is indeed coerulean, but its course most rapid, and every thing but taciturn. At THROUGH ITALY. 143 Minturnse it flows within a deep bed through a flat country, and is rather turbid than transparent; and it is generally known to swell frequently to so great a height, as to render the ferry impassable ; and a short time ago two boats were carried away by the violence of the torrent. The groves and temple consecrated to the goddess Marica were situated below* Minturnae, and nearer the sea coast. This deity is frequently mentioned by the classic writers, and by Virgil thus ; .... Rex. arva Latinus et urbes Jam senior long^ placidas in pace regebat. Hunc Fauno et Nymph& genitam Laurente Marick Accipimus, Upon which passage his commentator Servius makes the following remark : “ Est Marica dea littoris Minturnensium juxta Lirim amnem. It had been my intention not to deviate at all from the track of the Appian Way, and to have endeavoured to have followed its line through the dreary and marshy tract that lies between the stations of Minturnae and Sinuessa, and through which, I was informed, the Via was still visible. I had made every inquiry with' that view, and had 144 CLASSICAL TOUR procured guides, and secured lodgings ; but the autumnal rains fell with such continued violence, that I was obliged, though unwillingly, to abandon my antiquarian researches, and to prosecute my journey to Naples by the usual travelling road. I have before stated that the station of Sinuessa was supposed to have been under the Rocca di Mondragone, and at the extremity of a mountain, bearing formerly the name of Mons Massicus, so celebrated by the Romans for the wines which its territory produced. Vitiferis lat^ flo rebat Massicus arvis, Miratus nemora, et fulgentes sole racemosj It montis decus. On the other side of this mountain the Falernm Ager commenced, which rivalled the Massicus in the same article of luxury ; — gravidae cui nectare vites, Nuilo dant praelis nomen praeferre Falerni. On the banks of the Garigliano I reluctantly parted with my old attendant the Appian Way, which, during so extensive a tract of country had essentially contributed both to my amusement and information. Still ancient Via attracted my notice THROUGH ITALY. 145 within a mile and a half of the post-house at S. Agata, where I observed, both to the right and left, an old road, directing its course through a modern gateway, and apparently skirting the edge of Mons Massicus, in a direction towards the station at Si- nuessa. In an opposite direction it proceeded to Suessa Aurunca, now Sessa; and afterwards to Teanum Sidicimmy now Teano, a town and station on the Via Latina, It traverses a noble bridge, constructed with brick, and consisting of more than twenty arches, and bearing the name of Ponte, di Ronaco. This Via presents another perfect spe- cimen of Roman workmanship ; it measures twelve feet, or upwards, in breadth, and the interval be- tween the cippi, or upright stones projecting above the parapet, is ten feet. It enters the town of Sessa at the Porta del Bor go, together with another- paved way, which I shall describe hereafter, Suessa was a city of great antiquity, and called Aurunca, to distinguish it from Suessa Pometia, a town situate on the Pomptine marshes. It still retains many vestiges of former celebrity: num- berless inscriptions are dispersed about the streets ; and the modern walls of almost each house present fragments of ancient times. The Church of the Vescovado appears to have been constructed with the spoils of some heathen temple ; its pavement is of mosaic, and the image of a dog supporting VOL. V. T 14G CLASSICAL TOUR the vase for holy water deserves attention. The walls of the church adjoining the portella bear marks of antiquity ; and at S. Benedetto there are very extensiv e subterraneous vaults, differing from the many I had lately seen, and apparently made use of for baths or reservoirs, as the aqueduct is very visible : one part of this souterram terminates in three buildings of a semicircular form, and two door-cases of marble still remain, wdth groves cut into them to admit, as it should seem, a sliding door. This is a peculiarity which I have never before witnessed : these vaults are constracted, like many of the fabrics near Terracina and Mola, with the opus reticulatiim, and a layer of bricks and tile alternately. At the convent of S. Giovanni there is another singular piece of antiquity, whose original purport has not yet been properly ascertained ; but it is supposed to have been a Crypt o-poriiciiSf where people assembled in hot, as well as in rainy weather, to transact their business, as in our ex- change. To such uses one of these buildings at Capua has been attributed by San Felice, in his description of that city, “ Animi causd hue Cam- pani patricii ad antemeridianam inambulationem conveniebant, pomeridianasque sessiones ; ubi oti- osas diei boras qud.vis caeli exclus^ injurid transi- gebant.” The arches and walls, composed of THROUGH ITALY. 147 large stones, wonderfully united, are in a good state of preservation : the stucco is well executed, and at stated intervals there are pilasters orna- mented with stucco. An inhabitant of the con- vent informed me that on digging beneath the foundation of this building no signs of any pave- ment could be found ; which seems to corroborate the idea of its having formerly been a public walk or exchange. Three sides of the portico remain, but on the fourth are only foundations of large stones ; these porticos are open towards the west. At a short distance, but several feet beneath them, are the ruins of a semicircular building, vaulted and stuccoed, which Pratilli imagines to have been a theatre; but I cannot accede to his opinion. The situation of the terrace above is delightful, commanding a view of the fertile vale beneath, which formed a part of the Vescinus ager, with the sea at a distance. The before mentioned Via proceeded in its course from Sessa to Teano across the mountains, and I was informed that several fragments of it were still in existence. The other Via, which I said entered Sessa by the Porta del Borgo, directed itself to the very gate of the post-house at S. Agata, and appears to have followed afterwards nearly the same line as the modern road, the ves- tiges of its pavement being visible in the next 148 CLASSICAL TOUR village : but I could discover no traces of it any farther. I imagine this Via having crossed the line of the modern road united itself with the Appia towards the stations of Urbana or Ponte Campano *. We now approach the site of the ancient Ca- sUinunij which is occupied by the modern city of Capua ; it was divided by the river Vulturous, which at the same time separated the Falernian territory from Campania. “Fulvius Casilinum occupat rnodicis praesidiis, quae urbs Volturno flumine dirempta, Falernum a Campano agro dividit.” The ancient city of Capua is placed by writers of antiquity at the distance of three miles from Casilinum, where the Appian and Latin ways met. Nobilissimae viarum sunt Appia, Latina, Valeria : media autem earum est Latina in Ap- piam incidens apud Casilinum oppidum quod abest a Capud XVII II stadia : id est duo millia et cccLxxv passus : et postea, situm est Casilinum ad Vulturnum amnem.” At the distance of about three miles from the * Frem Sinuessa another road proceeded to Neapolis by^ the shores of the Mediterranean, leaving Capua on the left. A Sinuessa Literno — m p. xxiv — Cumis vi — Puteolis in — Neapoli . x. THROUGH ITALY. 149 modern Capua we recognize the splendid remains of the original city, so renowned for its riches, luxuries, and magnificence, that it gained the title of Altera Roma, or a second Rome ; the great fertility of its soil has doubtless contributed to the dilapidation of its ancient structures ; but many noble buildings, both public and private, have escaped the injuries of time, and exist as testi- monies of its former prosperity. The first that occurs is a triumphal arch built with brick, through which the traveller still passes. A little to the left is a noble amphitheatre, forming, in many points of view, a very picturesque object. Adjoining to the left side of the road is a large antique edifice, supposed to have been a Crypto- porticus, but now employed as a stable for ca- valry. On the other side of the road is a con- tinuation of ruins, which are thickly strewed over the adjoining fields and vineyards. Thus far have we travelled on or near the course of the Via Appia ; let us now endeavour to pursue it as far as Beneventum. Three different itineraries have recorded the stations and mutationes, with their intermediate distances, which agree with each other much better than they usually do. 150 CLASSICAL TOUR TABULA PEV TINGERIAN^. CAPVA. GALATIA VI. AD. NOVAS VI. CAVDIO . . • VIII. BENEVENTO ... XI. TOTAL. MP. XXXI. ITINERARIUM HIEROSOLYMITANUM. C . CAPVA MV . NOVAS XII C . ET MV . CLAVDIIS IX. C. BENEVENTO XII. TOTAL. MP. XXXIII. ITINERARIUM ANTONINI. CAPVA. CAVDIS XXL BENEVENTO XI. TOTAL. MP. XXXII. The course of this Via, on leaving the ruins of ancient Capna, is immediately ascertained by two stately sepulchres that exist in a good state of pi eservation ; the one on the right, the other on THROUGH ITALY. ini the left of the ancient pavement: the former bears the title of the Conocchia* ; the other Careen Vecchie, or the old prisons. To the intelligent researches of Pratilli we still continue to be indebted for much authentic in- formation respecting the further progress of this celebrated way. By his plan of Capua, with its antiquities, it appears that the Via Appia issued from the city through the Forta Alhana, and pur- sued its course in an easterly direction. He takes notice of several antique fragments and inscriptions existing in his time at the villages of Curti and Casapulla ; which, from these memorials, he sup- poses stood on the line of the road. Not far from the third mile-stone was a church dedicated to S. Peter, and called ad silicem, from its situation on the stoney way. We now come to Galazia, the Calatia of the itinerary, placed at the distance of mp vi. from Capua, but inserted only in the Iter of Peutinger. Pratilli places it between the fifth and sixth miles from Capua, and says, that it retains sufficient evidences of antiquity to retain its ancient site. * This appellation seems to have been derived from the spiral form of this monument j the word conocchia signifying a distaff or spindle. 152 CLASSICAL TOUR In proceeding towards the next station, Ad Nffvas, he informs us, that some vestiges of the pavement are to be recognized, not far from Matalone. A little further on was found a milliary, marked VIII, and which, our author says, was preserved in a convent of Franciscans, at a place called Mon- tedecoro, not far distant from the mountains of Cervino, and the Forchia di Durazzono, so called to distinguish it from the Forchia d' Arpajo : this milliary was thus inscribed. VIII \ AVG . CAES / Augustus Caesar DIVI . FIL . P . P . ( filius Pater patriae FIERI . CVR. ) The same author also records another in- scription, which is immured in a small house, not far distant from the aforesaid convent and the Appian Way, which with great difficulty he cleaned and copied in the year 1728. VENERI GENETRICI SAC . AELTA RU- FILLIA P. FILIA ROGATA PRO SUSCEPTA PROLE VOT.SOL.ET CUM CL. RUFINO VIRO . S. DEDICAV. K . APRIL . C . N . COR. NELIO LENTULO ilT ET . L . CALPURN . PISONE n COS. This very ancient record relates to the year of THROUGH ITALY. 153 Rome 752 ; when Lentulns Capurnius and Piso were consuls. Pursuing our line of road we pass the little village of Forchia on the left, where there are some mutilated inscriptions ; and beyond the eleventh mile-stone we come to Vico,"^ where there is a magnificent church dedicated to the Virgin, under the title of S. Maria k Vico. We after- wards encounter a village, still bearing the name of La Nova, which was, probably, the Mutatio ad JVffvas mentioned in two of the old itineraries. Many antique fragments have been dug up here, and the remains of an inscription are to be seen in the parish church of S. Nicolo. At about the thirteenth mile-stone several vestiges of the pave- ment were seen, and medals, vessels of glass, se- pulchral lamps, Etruscan vases, &c. were disco- vered in the year 1744. We now approach the village of Arpaja, and the commencement of those straits, recorded in history under the title of FurccB Caudincs, A great difference of opinion has prevailed amongst modern authors respecting the site of Caudium, a station on the Appian Way, and distant from Capua MP XXI. according to the numbers of two of the itineraries ; but although the precise spot has never been ascertained, yet no doubt has been 154 CLASSICAL TOUR entertained of its having been situate in this dis- trict ; which has been celebrated in history (like the Lake of Thrasymene) for the defeat of the Romans. The cause of this historical event is thus re- corded by Livy. “ Luring the consulate of T. Vetturius and S. P. Posthumius, C. Pontius, son of Herennius, was general of the Samnites for that year ; and as the father had justly the cha- racter of a person of consummate wisdom, so the son was one of the most considerable warriors, and ablest generals, of his time. When the am- bassadors from the Samnites, who had been sent to make restitution to the Romans, returned with- out success in their negociations, Pontius addressed his countrymen in a spirited harangue, and recom- mended hostility. ‘ War,’ said he, ' is always just when it becomes unavoidable, and those who have no hope left them but in their arms, may employ them without offence to religion.’ And in a kind of prophetic strain, continued, ‘ Know for certain, that as in our former war we fought against the gods rather than men, so in this we are now engaging in, we shall fight under the conduct of Heaven, and be guided by its direction.’ “ Having uttered this prophecy, he drew out his army, and pitched his camp as covertly as THROUGH ITALY. 155 possible near Caudium ; and hearing that the Roman army under the conduct of the two consuls was encamped at Galatia {Cruluzz^^ he sent ten soldiers in the habit of herdsmen, with orders to lead their cattle to different places near the Roman outposts, and when they should fall into the hands of their foragers, to agree exactly in asserting that the Samnite legions were in Apulia, had invested Luceria with all their forces, and were like to be soon masters of it. The Romans, having heard other reports of a similar nature, did not hesitate in giving assistance to their allies, and consulted only about the route they should take for that purpose. For there were two roads which led to Luceria ; the one by the coast of the Adriatic sea, which was broad and open, but as it was the safest, it was at the same time farther about : the other through the FurccE Caudina, or straits of Caudium, was much shorter. The nature of that place is as follows : there are two deep and narrow passes covered over with woods, and joined together by a continued range of mountains on each side. Be- tween them lies a large, grassy, and well-watered plain, through the middle of which was the road ; but before you can get at it, you must enter in at the first narrow pass, and either return back by the same way you came, or if yon will proceed farther, you must make your way through' the other pass, yet more strait and impassable than the former. 156 CLASSICAL TOUR “ The Romans, having marched their army through a rocky defile, arrived at the plain by one of these passes ; but as they advanced towards the other, they found it shut up by trunks of trees laid across, and a heap of large stones raised against them. This convinced them that their enemies had laid a snare for them, and they discovered a body of them on the top of the hill. Wherefore they marched back with all possible dispatch to the other pass through which they had entered, but this they also found barricadoed, and defended by^ a body of armed men. A general alarm and consternation seized the whole army, and a courier was dispatched to the veteran Herennius, asking his advice on this distressing and trying occasion. He gave it as his opinion, that the Romans should be sent away as soon as possible without any insult or injury, thereby laying this powerful nation under a very strong obligation, and securing their friendship for ever. The son, however, proposed, ^ that they should all, without exception, be put to the sword.’ After much debate, a middle course was decided upon, less sanguinary indeed, but most highly ig- nominious to the Roman army. Six hundred hostages were demanded by Pontius, and a time was fixed for delivering them, as well as for dis- arming the troops, and making them pass under the yoke. THROUGH ITALY. 157 “ The fatal hour at length approached : the hostages were ordered to come out of the lines, stripped of their arms, and all their clothes, to their under garments ; then they were received and conducted to prison. Next the lictors were or- dered to depart from the consuls, and their military cloaks were taken from them. The consuls, almost half naked, were first made to pass under the yoke ; after them, the commanding officers ac- cording to their rank ; and last of all the legions, one after another. During all this time the Samnites in arms stood around, and ridiculed and insulted the Romans as they passed. They also presented their swords in a threatening manner to most of them. Some were wounded, and others killed on the spot, who by returning a fierce look in resentment for the indignities they had suffered, happened to affront the conqueror. Thus they were made to pass under the yoke, and which was, in some respects, more grievous in the sight of their enemies.” Such is the historical event recorded by Livy as having taken place amidst the defiles of Cau- dium, an event which will naturally recur to the recollection of every classical traveller, whom either chance or curiosity may lead through these straights. Much light is thrown upon this dis- trict by a work published at the royal press at 15S CLASSICAL TOUR Caserta, and illustrated with views, plans, and de- scriptions, under the title of Le Furche Caiidine illustrate. By the places inserted in this work we see the whole extent of the valley of Caudium^ ac- curately laid down from actual survey, together with its mountains, entrances, and other appen- dages. Let us now compare this classical description of the Roman historian with the situation of the place in modern days. The natura loci still re- mains, as well as all the leading features. The Roman legions entered the valley near Arienzo, where it begins to contract itself, and here we must place the primce angusticEy or the first straights. On pursuing their march through the plain in an easterly direction, they found the opposite pass blocked up ; here was the saltus arctior ac impeditior, described by the historian> and this was on or near the spot where the vil- lage of Arpaja now stands. In this unexpected dilemma the legions reversed their course by turning back towards the pass through which they had entered the valley, which they also found blocked up, and their exit prohibited by insuperable difficulties. The successful result of the Samnite strata- gem, which produced such humiliating conse- THROUGH ITALY. 159 tjuences to the Roman army ^nd their leaders, has been already sufficiently explained. I viewed this classical spot with eagerness, and read the historian’s description of this memo- rable event with enthusiasm on the spot where it had transpired. There can be no doubt, I think, of the authenticity of the ground ; but if I utter my real sentiments, I could almost doubt the pos- sibility of blocking up with stones and trees two defiles, which I found so much more distended than I had reason to expect. The revolution, however, of many centuries may have caused very material changes in the exterior appearance of this valley, and the washings from the hills during so long a period would certainly, in some degree, have tended to fill up the abrupt preci- pices between the mountains. The modern names of many of the villages in this district still retain an allusion to FurccB Cau-' dm(E. I have already mentioned that of Forchia; and a little to the north of Arpaja is a hill called Costa Cauda, on which are vestiges of undent buildings ; and nearly opposite to this hill, in the plain, s6me fragments of the Appian pavement are still visible, tending towards Beneventum. But this celebrated causeway must not be 16'0 CLASSICAL TOUR confounded with the historical event lately men- tioned; for although the first construction of it by Appius Claudius, and the introduction of the Aqua Appia into Rome, are recorded by Livy in the same chapter and book as the defeat of the Romans by the Samnites, yet the Via Appia did not exist at the period of that event, which took place under the consulate of T. Vetturius and Spurius Posthumius, in the year of Rome cdxxxii. whereas the public road and water works were planned by Appius Claudius during his censor- ship, in the subsequent year of Rome cdxli. Leaving the defiles of Caudium, and pursuing my route towards Beneventum, the ancient course of the Appia was very satisfactorily ascertained by several magnificent bridges of stone, many of which still exist in a good state of preservation. Beneventum. The original name of this town was Maleventvm, and according to an- cient writers, owed its foundation to Diomede the Trojan. It was made a Roman colony in the year of Rome 485, and before the birth of Christ 268 years. Sempronio Sopho, et Appio Caeci filio, consulibus, Ariminum et Beneventum coloni missi.” — Velleius, lib. 1. And most probably on this occasion it changed its name from Male to Bene *ventum. At a later period another colony THROUGH ITALY. 161 was settled there, under the additional title of Concordia. Beneventum muro ducta colonia, Concordia dicta, deduxit Nero Claudius Caesar.” There are numerous and splendid antiquities still remaining at Beneventum ; one of which, a triumphal arch, surpasses any of those in the imperial city of Rome. It was erected to the honour of the Emperor Trajan, who contributed largely to the roads, bridges, and other public buildings in this district. It bears the following commemorative inscription : — IMP . C^SARI . DIVI NERVAE FILtO NERV^ TRAJANO OPTIMO . AUG . GERMANICO . D ACICO . PONT . MAX . TRIB . POTEST . XVIII . IMP VTl . COS VT . P . P . FORTISSIMO PRINCIPI . S . P . Q . R. It is very richly decorated with well-sculptured has reliefs, equal in size and beauty to those which formerly adorned his forum at Rome, and which were removed and newly disposed in the triumpal arch of Constantine. There are also the vestiges of a theatre, now called Le Grottone ; and of a Crypto-porticus, bearing the name of Santa Quaranta. I noticed also a fine basso re- lievo, representing the battle of the Amazons, VOL. V. M 16 ^ CLASSICAL TOUR placed over a fountain near the church of S. Sofia, and the statue of a bull near S. Lorenzo ; a similar effigy is erected upon an antique column near the castle. There is also an ancient bridge, and on the opposite side of the river the remains of va- rious sepulchral monuments, and a fine modern bridge over the river Calore. In the cathedral are some handsome fluted columns of the Ionic order, and near to it are some small Egyptian obelisks. I observed, also, upon a tower, a good has relief of a boar. In the court of the archie- piscopal palace are various inscriptions, busts, statues, bas reliefs, with other fragments of an- tiquity, and throughout the whole city we may trace numerous vestiges of Roman antiquity; indeed the walls, houses, and streets present one continued series of inscriptions, bas reliefs, broken columns of granite, &c. &c. Near the ruins of the theatre is the fragment of a very fine column, and some bas reliefs. When I started from Rome, it was my de- cided intention to investigate the Via Appia along its whole extended line as far as Brundusiurn ; but the advanced state of the season, the inclemency of the weather, and the ill health of my companion and artist Carlo Labruzzi, obliged me, very re- luctantly, to abandon the further prosecution of my intended plan. THROUGH ITALY. lea Here, therefore, my journal of the Appian Way must end, and with the same concluding lines of the poet Horace: — .... hie longae finis, chartaeque viaeque. THAT Appius Claudius was the original founder of the Appian Way, and that the same line re- tained the name of its founder in the time of Horace, there can he no doubt whatever, as the poet and the itineraries agree in the names of the stations on it. But in later times it seems to have claimed a second founder in the Emperor Trajan ; who mended the original pavement, repaired the numerous bridges, and put up new rnilliaries, which still exist in many places on this line of road, as records of his munificence and zeal for the public good. From this circumstance some con- fusion has arisen amongst modern writers, who have given the name of Via Trajana to what was in truth the Via Appia. This remark alludes particularly to the tract of country between Beneventum and Brundusium, and the mistake has arisen from the following inscription uplgn a milliary marked vi. “ Imp. Caesar Divi Nervae F. Nerva Trajanus Aug. Germ. Dacic. Pont. Max. Trib. Pot. XIII. Imp. vi. Cos. v. P. P. viam Bene- vento Brundusium pecun. sua fecit.” Upon which De Vita, in his Tliesaurus Antiquitatum Beneven- 164 CLASSICAL TOUR tanarum, vol. i. 178, makes the following just remark : — “ At ubi Trajanus vias pen^ omnes in orbe Romano universo muniend^s suscepit, turn in aliis plurimis, turn praesertim in Appid egregiam illam navavit operam, qua demum facta fuit, ut vetere nomine abjecto, Trajana omnium sermone publicisque monumentis nuncupari ccepisset. Num- mos etiam ea de re cusos quibus Via Trajana in- scriptum est.” Disappointed in my intended researches on this Via, let me indulge my fancy in procecuting it on paper at least. The following stations are re- corded by Antonine, on the road between Bene- ventum and Brundusium. Beneventum. — Equotutico m. p. xxt. — Ecas XVIII. — Erdonias xviiii. — Canusio xxvi.—-Ru- bos XXIII. — Butuntos xi. — Barium xii. — Tur- ribus xxi.—Egnatige xvi.— Speluncas, xx. — Brundusium xviii. — ^Total, mp. ccvi. ITINERARIVM HIEROSOLYMITANVM. Brindisi. — M ansio Spitenaces xiiii. — Mu- tatio ad Decimum xi. — Civitas Leonatiae x. — Mu- tatio turres Aurilianas xv. — Mutatio turres Juliana IX. — Civitas Beroes xi. — Mutatio Botontones xi* — Civitas Rubos xi. — Mutatio ad quintumdecimum XV. — Civitas Canusio xv. — Mutatio undecimum THROUGH ITALY. 165 xi.—Civitas Serdonis xv.— Civitas .^cas xviii.— Mutatio Aquilonis x. — ^Finis Apuliae et Campanise. Mansio ad Equuin magnum viii. — Mutatio Vicus Forno NoVo xii. — Civitas Benevento x. — ^Total, MP. ccvi. There was another line of communication be- tween the inland district in which Beneventum is situated, and the maritime parts of Magna Gracia, which took a different direction from the first offset, and proceeded to Hydruntum, or Tarentum, from whence a road led to Brundusium. The sta- tions on it are thus laid down by Antonine. ITER A BENEVENTO HYDRUNTUM. M. P. CLXV. Beneventum. — Eclano, m. p. xv. — Sub Ro- mula XXI. — Ponte Aufidi xxii. — Venusio xviii. — Ad Silvianum xx. — Sub Lupatia xxi. — Canales XIII. — Hydrunto xxv. — ^Total m. p. tLv. ITER A BENEVENTO TARENTUM, M. P. CLIV. Eclano m. p. xv. — Sub Romula xxi. — Ponte Aufidi XXII. — Venusia XVIII. — Silvium xx. — Blera XIII. — Sub Lupatia xiv. — Canales xiii. — Tarento XX. — ^Total, CLvi. The distance from Brundusium to Tarentum, ad littus, or by the sea coast, was m. p. xliiii. CLASSICAL TOUR !(}(> The road from Brundusium to Hvdrimturn, or Otranto, was Lipias m. p. xxv. — Hydrunto M. p. xxv. — ^Total, M. P. L. My own personal researches on the Appian Way have hitherto extended only to Beneventum ; and there is little probability of my ever accom- plishing the remaining part of this interesting journey : but the line of route which I have ex- tracted from the ancient itineraries may, at some future period, prove useful to a younger and more adventurous traveller. His best guides, through the unfrequented districts of Apulia and Magna Graecia, will be the following books : — Cluverius — ‘‘ Italia antiqua.” Folio ; Lugd. Batav. 1624. Pratilli — “ La ViaAppia descritta da Roma a Brindisi.” Folio ; Napoli, 1745. Gesualdo — “ Osservazioni sopra la Storia della Via Appia da Pratilli. ’ 4to. Napoli, 1754. “ Le Forche Caudine illustrate.” Folio ; Ca- serta, 1778. THROUGH 1TALY^ 167 JOURNEY OF HORACE FROM ROME TO BRUNDUSIUM, ON THE APPIAN WAY. Hitherto I have considered this interesting line of road as an antiquary and artist. I have endea- voured to illustrate its antiquities, and point out the natural beauties that accompany it. I shall now exhibit its course in a more classical point ol view ; and with such companions as Mecaenas, Virgil, and Horace, I flatter myself that a repe- tition of the journey will neither prove tedious nor unamusing. This journey to Brundusium, which gave rise to the poet’s entertaining narrative, originated from the desire of effecting a reconciliation between Octavius Caesar and Mark Antony, who had long been rivals for power and empire. Mecaenas was the chief promoter of this friendly plan, and most probably persuaded Horace, the mutual friend ot Octavius and himself, to join the party, and add his interest to that of their other friends. The poet quitted Rome in company with He- 168 CLASSICAL TOUR liodorus, a learned rhetorician, and rested the first night at Aricia (now La Riccia), where they were not very well accommodated. Egressum magn^ me excepit Aricia Rom^ Hospitio modico ; rhetor comes Helipdorus, Graecorum longh doctissimus.” With Heliodorus, who by far possess’d. More learning than the tribe of Greeks profess’d. Leaving imperial Rome, I took my way To poor Aricia, where that night I lay. From thence he continued his journey to Appii Forum, which derived its name from Appius Claudius, the founder of the celebrated Via Appia, on which this place was situated. Here passengers embarked on board vessels, which conveyed them on a canal, called Decennovium, to the neighbour- hood of Terracina; and here our travellers had, doubtless, good reason to complain of the badness of the water, the croaking of the frogs, and the impertinence of the boatmen. How humorously has the poet described his adventures at this halting j)lace ! inde Fobum Appi Diflfertum nautis, caUponibus atque malignis. Hie ego, propter aquam, qubd erat teterrima, venlri Indico bellum, coenantes baud animo aequo Expectans comites.” THROUGH ITALY. 169 To Forum Appii thence we steer, a place Stuff’d with rank boatmen, and with vintners base. The water here was of so foul a stream. Against my stomach I a war proclaim. And wait, though not with much good humour, wait. While with keen appetites my comrades eat. In the same vein of good humour, notwith- standing the privation of supper, the poet con- tinues his narration of the nightly scenes that ensued on the passengers embarking. " . . . . sam nox inducere terris Umbras, et coelo diflfundere signa parabat. Turn pueri nautis, pueris convicia nautae Ingerere. Hue appelle; trecentos inserisj ohe! Jam satis est. Dum aes exigitur, dum mula ligatur Tota abit hora. Mali culices ranaeque palustres Avertunt somnos : Absentem ut cantat amicam Mult^ prolutus vapp& nauta, atque viator Incipit j ac missae pastum retinacula mulae Nauta piger saxo religat, stertitque supinus. Jamque dies aderat, nil quum procedere lintrem Sentimus j donee cerebrosus prosilit unus, Ac mulae nautaeque caput lumbosque saligno Fuste dolat. Quartet vix demum exponimur hor&.” The night o’er earth now spread her dusky shade. And through the heavens her starry train display’d What time, between the slaves and boatmen rise Quarrels of clamorous rout. The boatman cries, " Step in, my masters j” when wdth open throat. Enough, you scoundrel ! will you sink the boat !” ]?0 CLASSICAL TOUR Thus, while the mule is harness’d, and we pay Our freight, an hour in wrangling slips away. The fenny frogs, with croakings hoarse and deep. And gnats, loud buzzing, drive away our sleep. Drench’d in the lees of wine the wat’ry swain. And passenger, in loud alternate strain, Chaunt forth the absent fair, who warms his breast. Till weary’d passenger retires to rest. Our clumsy bargeman sends his mule to graze. And the tough cable to a rock belays. Then snores supine j but when at rising light Our boat stood still, up starts a hair-brain’d wight. With sallow cudgel breaks the bargeman’s pate. And bangs the mule at a well-favour’d rate. Liberated at length from such accommodations, and from such companions, with what joy did the travellers refresh themselves at the pure stream of Feronia’s fountain ; and with what anxiety did they anticipate the meeting of Mecaenas and Cocceius at Anxur ! Ora manusque tu^l lavimus, Feronia, lymphs j Millia turn pransi tria repimus, atque subimus Impositum saxis latb candentibus Anxur, Hue venturus erat Mecsenas*, optimus atque * We find few characters of antiquity more deservedly celebrated than that of Mecaenas. He was the friend and ad- viser of the Emperor Augustus j and the associate of Virgil and Horace. To his interference the former is said to have owed the restitution of his lands, and the latter his forgive- THROUGH ITALY. 171 Cocceius* * missi magnis de rebus uterque Legati5 aversos soliti componere amicos.” At ten, Feronia, we thy fountain gainj There land, and bathe ; then after dinner creep Three tedious miles, and climb the rocky steep. Whence Anxur shines. Mecsenas was to meet Cocceius here, to settle things of weight j For they had oft in embassy been join’d. And reconcil’d the masters of mankind f. At Anxur, better known in modern times by the name of Terracina, Mecaenas, accompanied by Cocceius and Capito Fonteius, joined Horace and his friend Heliodorus. Fonteius Capito, whom ness, for having espoused the cause of Brutus at the battle of Philippi. His encouragement of literature was so great, that patrons of it were, from him, called Mecsenates. — Lempriere. * Cocceius Nerva, a friend of Horace and Mecsenas, and grandfather to the Emperor Nerva. He was one of those who settled the disputes between Augustus and Antony. He afterwards accompanied Tiberius to his retreat in Cam- pania, and starved himself to death. — Lempriere, f The object of Mecsenas and Cocceius, in this journey, is here alluded to, namely, the reconciliation of Antony with Augustus. 172 CLASSICAL TOUR the poet describes, was a msiW^factus ad unguem*^ of the most polished and accomplished manners? and a friend to Antony. • Interea Mecaenas advenit, atque Cocceius, Capitoque simul Fonteius, ad unguem Factus homo j Antoni, non ut magis alter, amicus.” Here while I bath’d my eyes with cooling ointment. They both arriv’d according to appointment. Fonteius too, a man of worth approv’d. Without a rival by Antonius lov’d. Passing through the town of Fundi, where, not without ridicule, they took leave of the Praetor Aufidius Luscus, they proceeded to the town of the Mamurrae, having Murena as their host, and Capito as their restaurateur. Fundos, Aufidio Lusco praetore, libenter Linquimus, insani ridentes praemia scribae, Praetextum, et latum clavum, prunaeque batilium. Inf Mamurrarum lassi descendimus urbem MurenS, praebente domum, Capitone culinam.” * This figurative expression is taken from engravers in wood or marble, who were accustomed to pass their nail over the work, to know if it were well polished. f The annotator on Horace makes the following obser- vation on this passage. In Mamurrarum urbe. The stroke of THROUGH ITALY. 173 Laughing we leave an entertainment rare. The paltry pomp of Fundi' s foolish mayor. The scrivener Luscus ; now with pride elate. With incense fum’d, and big with robes of state. From thence our weary’d troop at FormicB rests, Murena's lodgers, and Fonteius' guests. The morning sun of the ensuing day shone propitiously upon the travellers at Sinuessa, and added PlotiuSy VariuSy and Virgilius to their party. With what natural joy, friendship, and aflfection, does Horace express himself on this happy meet- ing — with no poetical Jealousy, but with the pure emanations of a feeling heart! — satire here is of a delicate and almost imperceptible malignity. Formice, the real name of the city which Horace alludes to, belonged to the Lamian family, whose antiquity conferred an honour upon it. But our poet paraphrases it by the name of a person who was born there, and who had made his country famous in a very different manner. Mamurra was a Roman knight, so infamous for his rapine, luxury, and debauchery, that he was styled, by the poet Catullus, Decoctor Formianus, Lempriere distinguishes Mamurra under the title of a Roman knight born at Formiae, who followed the fortune of Caesar in Gaul, where he greatly enriched himself. He built a magnificent palace on the Caelian hill, in Rome, and was the first who encrusted his walls with marble. I have in a former tour observed, that the resemblance of Mamurra is still preserved in the name of a village on the road to Naples. 174 CLASSICAL TOUR “ Proxima lux oritur mult5 gratissima, namque Plotius et Varius Sinuesste *, V'^irgiliusque Occurrunt, animae, quales neque candidiores Terra tulit j neque queis me sit devinctior alter.” Next rising morn with double joy we greet. When we with Plotius f, Varius, Virgil meet. Pure spirits these 5 the world no purer knows. For none my heart with such alfection glows. From Sinnessa the learned junto proceeded on the Appian Way to the next station of Pons Cam- panus, where the officers distinguished by the name of parochi supplied them with salt and wood. From thence they continued their route to Capua, where both travellers and mules rested ; Mecaenas went to play, Horace and Virgil to sleep. Proxima Campano ponti quae villula, tectum Proebuit ; et parochi +, quae debent, ligna, salemque. Hinc muli Capuae clitellas tempore ponunt. Lusum it Mecaenas, dormitum ego Virgiliusque.” * It is rather singular, that no mention should have been made by Horace of the city of Minturnoe, which was a station on the Appian Way between Formice and Sinuessa. f Plotius and Varius w'ere intimately acquainted with Horace and Virgil, and were appointed by Augustus to re- vise the ^neid of Virgil. X Before the consulship of Lucius Posthumius, the ma- gistrates of Rome travelled at the public charge, without THROUGH ITALY. 175 Near the Campanian bridge that night we lay, Where public officers our charges pay. Early next morn to Capua we came. Mecanas goes to tennis, hurtful game To a weak appetite and tender eyes ; So down to sleep with Virgil, Horace lies. Their next halting-place was at Caudium, where they were hospitably received at the noble villa of Cocceius, situated above the Caiidian tavern. Hinc nos Coccei recipit plenissima villa Quae super est Clapdi cauponas.” Then by Cocceius we were nobly treated. Whose house above the Caudian tavern’s seated. The poet now takes an opportunity of relating, with humour, a squabble that took place between Messius and Sarmentus, which I shall not insert, it being only an episode to our journal. The party now proceeds to Beneventum, where the too attentive host set his house on fire by roasting a dish of lean thrushes. being burthensome to the provinces. Afterwards commis- saries were appointed in the great roads to defray all ex- penses of those who were employed in the business of the state. They were obliged, by the Lex Julia de provinciis to provide lodging, fire, salt, hay, and straw, — Editor of Ho~ race. 176 CLASSICAL TOUR Tendimus hinc recta Beneventum, ubi sedulus hospes Paene arsit, macros dum turdos versat in igne.” At our next inn our host was almost burn’d. While some lean thrushes at the fire he turn’d : Through, his old kitchen rolls the god of fire. And to the roof the vagrant flames aspire. But hunger all our terrors overcame. We fly to save our meat, and quench the flame. Our travellers now approached the moun- tainous district of Apulia, and baited at the village of Tr ’wicuSf where the god of fire still persecuted them with volumes of smoke. Incipit ex illo monies Apulia notos Ostentare mihi, quos torret Atabulus, et quos Nunquam erepsemus, nisi nos vicina Trivici* Villa recepisset, lachrymose non sine fumo, Udos cum foliis ramos urente camino.” Apulia now my native mountains shews. Where the north wind with nipping sharpness blows. Nor could we well have climb’d the steepy height. Did we not at a neighbouring village bait. Where from green wood the smothering flames arise. And with a smoky sorrow fill our eyes. * We may still recognise the ancient Trivicus in the mo- dern Fico, which is situated directly east from Beneventuro, and between it and Ascoli. THROUGH ITALY. 177 Our poet finds himself at a loss to express, in ^erse, the name of the little town which next received them, and which he places at the distance of twenty-four miles from the Villa Trivici, and where he again had reason to complain of bad water ; though the bread was of so excellent a quality that travellers were accustomed to carry a supply of it with them to Canosa, where the bread was gritty. Quatuor hinc rapimur viginti et millia rhedis, Mansuri oppidulo, quod rersu dicere non est*: Signis perfacile est. Venit viiissima rerum Hie aqua : sed panis longfe pulcherrimus, ultra Callidus ut soleat humeris portare viator : Nam Canusi lapidosus; aquse non ditior urna.” In coaches thence at a great rate we came Eight leagues, and baited at a town, whose name * It is generally supposed, that this little town was Equotuticus, or Equomagnus, by each of which titles it is noticed in the ancient itineraries, and placed at the distance of twenty-one or twenty-two miles from Beneventum. But our poet is not quite clear with regard to distances, if we give credit to the itineraries ; for he makes the distance be- tween the Villa Trivici, and the Oppidulum quod versa dicere non est, to be twenty-four miles 5 whereas, according to all the itineraries, the whole distance from Equotuticum to Bene- ventum does not exceed twenty-two miles. VOL. V. N 178 CLASSICAL TOUR Cannot in verse and measure be exprest. But may by marks and tokens well be guest. Its water, nature’s cheapest element. Is bought and sold) its bread, most excellent. Which wary travellers provide with care. And on their shoulders to Canusium bear. Whose bread is sandy, and its wealthiest stream Poor as the town’s of unpoetic name. At Canosa the travellers had the mortification of losing Varius, who quitted the party with gene- ral regret. Flentibus hie Varius discedit moestus amicis.” Here Varius leaves us, and with tears he goes j With equal tenderness our sorrow flows. After a tedious and wet journey, the travellers proceeded to Rubi, now Ruvo ; and on the next day reached Bari, on the sea coast ; the weather more favourable, the road worse. “ Inde Rubos fessi pervenimus, utpotelongum Carpentes iter, et factum corruptius imbri. Postera tempestas melior, via pejor ad usque Bart moenia piscosi.” Onward to Rubi wearily we toil’d. The journey long, the road with rain w as spoil’d. THROUGH ITALY. 179 To Bari, fam’d for fish, we reach’d next day j The weather fairer, but much worse the way. The following station was Egnatia, now Ag- nazzo, situated near the sea coast, where the relation of a miracle, equal in wonder to that an- nually performed at Naples*, tended to amuse the travellers. . Dein Gnatia lymphis Tratis extincta dedit risusque jocosque, Dum flammis sine thura liquescere limine sacro Persuadere cupit. Credat Judaeus Apella, Non ego,” Then water-cursed Egnatia gave us joke. And laughter great, to hear the naoon-struck folk Assert, if incense on their altars lay. Without the help of fire it melts away. The sons of circumcision may receive The wond’rous tale 3 which I shall ne’er believe. From Egnatia the travellers continued their route to Brundusiuntf now Brindisi, having passed fifteen days on the road ; how pleasantly and pro- * 1 allude to the blood of S. Januarius, which is sup- posed to liquify on being produced before the head of the saint, I saw this supposed miracle, and agree with Addison, that it is the most bungling trick that ever was attempted. 180 CLASSICAL TOUR fitably need not be questioned, when we recollect that Mecaenas, Heliodoriis, Plotius, Varius, Vir- gilius, and Horatius, composed this party. The travellers’ route was as follows : — First day, .... Aricia, now La Riccia. Second day, . . . Forum Appii. Third day, . . . Anxur, now Terracina. Fourth day, . . . Fundi, now Fondi. Fifth day, .... Formiae, now Mola di Gaeta. Sixth day, .... Sinuessa, near Mondragone. Seventh day, . . Pons Campanus and Capua. Eighth day, . . . Caudium. Ninth day, . . . Beneventum, now Benevento. Tenth day, . . . Trivicum, now Vico. Eleventh day, . . Equotuticum, unknown. Twelfth day, . . Rubi, now Ruvo. Fourteenth day, . Bari, still Bari. Fifteenth day, . . Brundusium, now Brindisi. ** Brundusium longse finis chartseque viaeque.” From thence our travels to Brundusium bend, Where our long journey and my paper end. THROUGH ITALY. 131 TOUR ALONG THE COAST OF THE BAY OF NAPLES TO THE ISLAND OF CAPRI. I SHALL pass over in silence the museum at Portici, and its precious contents : as well as the neighbouringtown of Pompeii, both of which have been already described by Mr. Eustace, and pro- ceed along the coast towards Castel k Mare. In my way thither I passed ne^r the site of the ancient town of Stabiae, a fellow sufferer with Pompeii. Some few relics of antiquity have been extracted from its ruins, but no researches have been made on that spot for some years. This town was also a seaport, and is thus described by Galen. ‘‘ Opi- dulum ipsum Stabiae apud mare in intimo maxime sinu situm est, inter Surrentum et Neapolim, magis tamen in latere Surrentino. Ceterum to- tum hoc latus est collis satis magnus et longus, in Tyrrhenum usque protensus mare. Inflectitnr autem leviter in occasum versus. Conjungitur 182 CLASSICAL TOUR illi in intimo sinii alter cpllis non parvus, quern Romani vocant Vesuvium. At celebre nunc et novum €st nomen Vesvius, omnibus mortalibus iiotum, propter ignem qui ex terr4 in sublime emittitur.” At Castel ^ Mare are the royal dock-yards, and the depot of the galley-slaves, amounting to five hundred. The situation of this town, immediately under lofty mountains, covered with thick groves of chesnut trees, and commanding a view of the Bay of Naples, is exceedingly picturesque. I would particularly recommend a walk to the old castle, and its environs. The hills abound with springs of water, both simple and mineral ; and from the same rock issue streams of very diflerent qualities. From Castel a Mare I traversed the mountains to Sorrento, passing through the villages of Vico and Meta, over the worst path, and upon the worst animal I ever crossed; but the romantic scenery, which nature displayed during this little journey of eight miles, over rocks and amidst precipices, made amends most amply for all other inconve- niences, and caused me not to repent of having preferred a land to a sea journey. The soil around Sorrento is volcanic, and the THROUGH ITALY. 183 vegetation very luxuriant i its situation is rendered singular by the rocks of tufa stone, which form very deep and narrow glens, at the base of which flows a stream ; the sides of these glens appear to have been separated by some great convulsion of nature; several fine caverns are formed within them, which, being richly overhung with wood, afford many good and novel subjects for the pencil. The walls surrounding the town of Sorrento exclude every means of prospect. The few remains of antiquity within it consist of some inscriptions near the entrance gate; one in honour of the Emperor Trajan, the other to that of Antoninus Pius ; there are others under the portico of the church of S. Antonino, in one of which a temple and statue dedicated to Venus are mentioned. In the cortile of a palace I observed the capitals of four very fine Corinthian columns, and other antique fragments dispersed in various places. The wines of Surrentum have, like those of the Massican and Falemian hills, been celebrated by the ancient poets. Surrentina bibis ? nec myrrhina picta, nec aurum Sume ; dabunt calices haec tibi vina suos. Martial, lib. xiii. epig. 90. Et Surrentino generosos palmite colles. Ovid, Met. lib. xv. ISl CLASSICAL TOUR The naturalist Pliny also alludes to the excel- lence and salubrious quality of these wines. Item Surrentina, in vicinis tantum nascentia ; convales- centibus maxim^ probata proper tenuitatem, salu- britatemque. Tiberius Caesar dicebat, consensisse medicos, ut nobilitatern * Surrentino darent. — Lib. xiii. cap. 6. But with the ancients, the celebrity of these wines ceased, for they are no longer held in high estimation, and their tenuitas and saluhritas are no longer mentioned ; but the Surrentines may justly boast of another article, unknown to their predecessors of antiquity, and unrivalled, perhaps, in the whole world ; namely, their fatted calves, which exceed in delicacy and flavour any I have ever tasted, and are transported to Naples as the greatest treat which Epicurean luxury can pro- cure. From Castel a Mare the sea coast becomes steep, rocky, and inaccessible. There are two landing-places at Sorrento, both small and con- fined. From one of these ports I embarked on board a boat, with four men, which I had hired * The expression of vino nohile, as indicative of the good quality of wine^ is still made use of in modern Italy. THROUGH ITALY. 185 at Naples for thirty carlini per diem, and landed at Puolo, not far distant from Sorrento. To trace the situation of those places which were inhabited by celebrated men, or have been re- corded by the classic writers, has always been with me a favourite pursuit, and an object of research. At Puolo was the Villa Surrentina of Pollio*, thus described by Statius, lib. i. Est inter notes Syrenum nomine muros Saxaque Tyrrhenae templis onerata Minervae, Celsa Dicharchaei speculatrix villa profundi, Qu&, Bromio dilectus ager, collesque per altos Uritur, et praelis non invidet uva Falernis placido lunata recessu Hinc atque hinc curvas prorumpunt aequora rupes. Dat natura locum j montique intervenit unum Littus, et in terras scopulis pendentibus exit. Its situation on the coast, with the reflection of mountains and buildings in the sea, is thus described by the same hand : — • We must not confound this Pollio, the friend of the poet Statius, and who was surnamed Felix, with the cele- brated Asinius Pollio, the friend of Virgil and Horace. To the former, Statius dedicated his third book of the Sylva; and the second epistle of his second book is entitled. Villa Surrentina Pollii felicis, and commences with the lines here quoted, Est inter, 8^c. 186 CLASSICAL TOUR Quum jam fessa dies, et in aequora moritis opaci Umbra cadit, vitreoque natant prsetoria j)onto. There are still very considerable and satisfactory remains of this villa, consisting of grottos, reticu- lated work, &c. &c. which encompass a little bay or inlet formed by the sea, over which there are vestiges of a bridge that had been thrown across the entrance to this recess. It was placed on a promontory on the very edge of the sea, and at present many of the mins are under water; the rocks, also, in many places bear the mark of tools. The last quoted lines of Statius give a very just description of the local situation of this villa : At the close of day, when the mountain behind it re- flects its deep shadows in the ocean, and the su- perimpending ruins wave their reflections in the sea-green surface beneath.” Its position is de- lightful, and the flne view which its level presents will amply repay the traveller for his trouble in visiting these ancient relics, and seat of classical retirement, which, in its modern name of Puolo, seems to have retained a memorial of its former possessor and inhabitant, Pollio. The next place on the coast is Massa, which has been noticed by some writers as the birth- place of Torquato Tasso; but his biographer Serassi has fixed it at Sorrento. This coast abounds THROUGH ITALY. 187 with watch-towers, placed at short intervals from each other ; they are continued along the whole coast of Calabria, by which means, and other signals, news has been conveyed from Naples to Sicily in the course of a very few hours. At the extreme point of this line of coast, and opposite to the Island of Capri, was the promontory of Mi- nerva, on which stood a temple dedicated to that goddess, mentioned by several classic authors. The geographer Strabo, in his description of this coast, says, “ Surrentum Campanorum, unde pro- minet Minervse promontorium. In summo est fanum Minervae, ah Ulysse conditum.” This temple was erected on the highest point of the promontory, from which circumstance the deity was called by Statius, Tyrrheni'speculatrix virgo profundi. And the same elevated site of the temple is again alluded to by Seneca Alta procelloso speculatur vertice Pallas. Also by Virgil, . . , tennplumqae apparet in arce Minervae. This projecting point of land now bears the appellation of L(i putitci della C/aynpanella^ and is 188 CLASSICAL TOUR distant about three miles from the Island of Capri ; as Strabo observes, hinc ad Capreas insulam brevis est trajectus. Island of Capri. After a very boisterous passage, in a small open boat, I landed safely in this island ; a spot rendered famous by the resi- dence of the Emperor Augustus on it, and in- famous by that of his successor Tiberius ; an island hiccsto posssssci stni^ for many of the latter years of his life. In speaking of Caprea, the historian Dio says, Sita est hand procul a Sur- rentin^ continente, ad nullam quidem rem utilis ; nobilis tamen, hodieque ob Tiberii inibi commora- tionem. Suetonius informs us, that it was given in exchange by Augustus for the island of Ischia ; and that this exchange arose from the circumstance of an aged oak, whose decayed branches, drooping on the ground, recovered on his arrival in the island ; which so rejoiced the Emperor, that he exchanged the island of Ischia for that of Capri, with the Neapolitan government*. The retired situation, and almost inaccessible * Apud insulam Capreas veterrimEe ilicis demissos jam ad terram languentesque ramos convaluisse adventu suo, adeb Isetatus est, ut eas cum republic^ Neapolitanorum permuta- verit, ^nari^ dat&.’'— Suetonius in Augusto. / THROUGH ITALY. 189 coast of Capreae, pointed it out as a retirement well suited to the gloomy and vicious habits of the Emperor Tiberius. “Praecipu^ delectatus insuld, quod uno parvoque littore adiretur, undique prae- ruptis immensae altitudinis rupibus et profundo maris.” — Suetonius in Tiberio. Another historian, in giving a more minute ac- count of this island, alludes to the solitary habits of the same Emperor. Capreas se in insulam abdidit, solitudinem ejus placuisse maxim^ credi- derim quoniam impetuosum circa mare, et vix modicis navigiis pauca subsidia, neque adpulerit quisquara nisi gnavo custode. Coeli temperies hyemi mitis, objectu montis, quo saeva ventorum arcentur. iEstas in Favonium oh versa, et aperto circum pelago peramoena; spectabatque pulcher- rimuin sinum, antequam Vesuvius mons ardescens faciem loci verteret. Graecos tenuisse, Capreasque Telebois habitatas fama tradit. Sed turn Tibe- rius XII. villarum nominibus et molibus insederat ; quanto intentus olim ad publicas curas, tant6 oc- cultior in luxus et malum otium resolutus.” — Ta- citus, Annal. lib. iv. “ Tiberius having issued an edict, warning the neighbouring cities not to intrude upon his privacy, and having placed a guard at different stations to prevent all access to his person ; hating the 190 CLASSICAL TOUR municipal towns, weary of the colonies, and dis- gusted with every thing upon the continent, passed over to Capr^a, a small island separated from the promontory of Surrentum by an arm of the sea, not more than three miles broad. There, protected from all intrusion, and pleased with the solitude of the place, he retired from the world ; finding, as may be well imagined, many objects and local cir- cumstances suited to his inclinations : not a single port in the channel ; the stations few, and only ac- cessible to small vessels : no part of the island where men could land unobserved by the sentinels : the climate inviting: in the winter season en- joying a genial air, under the shelter of a moun- tain, that repelled the inclemency of the winds : the heat allayed, during the summer, by the western breeze ; the sea presenting a smooth ex- panse, and opening a view of the Bay of Naples, with a beautiful landscape on its borders : all these conspired to please the taste and genius of Tiberius. The scene, indeed, has lost much of its beauty ; the fiery eruptions of Mount Vesuvius having, since that time, changed the face of the country.” If we may believe an old tradition, a colony from Greece was formerly settled on the opposite coast of Italy, and the Teleboi were in possession of the Isle of Capreae. On that spot Tiberius selected THROUGH ITALY. 191 for his residence twelve different villas, all magni- ficent and well fortified. Tired of public business, he there resigned himself to his favourite gratifi- cations ; amidst his solitary vices, still engendering mischief. From the period when the Emperor fixed upon this island as his abode, he gave free scope to all those vices and enormities, which his more public residence at Rome obliged him, in some measure, to restrain. “ Secreti licentiam nactus, et quasi civitatis oculis remotus, cuncta simul vitia mal^ diu dissimulata, tandem profudit.” These are recounted by his biographer Suetonius ; and the anecdote of the fisherman still lives, by tradi- tion, in the memory of the modern inhabitants of the island. “A few days after his arrival at Capreae, a fisherman coming up unexpectedly to him, when he was alone, and presenting him with a large mullet, he ordered the man’s face to be scrubbed with the fish, being terrified at the thought of his having been able to make his way to him over such rugged and steep rocks. The man, while undergoing the punishment, expressing his joy that he had not presented him with a large crab *, which he had taken, he ordered his face * I think that Murphy, the translator, has mistaken this fish : the locusta is rather the lagusta, or sea-prawn, re- sembling the lobster, but without claws ; and from the roughness of its coating most admirably adapted to the tor- ture imposed upon the poor fisherman. CLASSICAL TOUR I9^i to be further lacerated with the claws of that creature.” In paucis diebus quam Capreas attigit, pis- catori, qui ibi secretum agenti, grandem mullum inopinanter obtulerat, perfricari eodem pisce faciem jussit; territus, quod is a tergo insulae per aspera et devia erepsisset ad se. Gratulanti autem inter poenam quod non et locustam, quam praegrandem ceperatj obtulisset, locusta quoque lacerari os im- peravit. Some writers have imagined that the emperor’s twelve villas had the name of a deity attached to each of them, and in that case the most conspicuous and the most favoured was the Villa Jovis ; where, as we are informed by Suetonius, the Em- peror, after the defeat of Sejanus’s conspiracy, shut himself up for the space of eight successive months. Verum et oppressa conjuratione Sejani nihilo securior aut constantior, per viii proximos menses non egressus est villa, quae vocatur Jovis.” The formation and appearance of this island are singular : the eastern and western points are bounded by very high and inaccessible rocks, be- tween which runs a strip of land through the middle of the island in a direction from north to south. The only good landing place is on the THROUGH ITALY. 193 opposite side to Naples. On the southern part of the island there is another small tract of shore, but much exposed to high winds and tempestuous seas. From the northern landing-place the ascent to the town of Capri is steep ; the adjoining tract of land is highly cultivated, and produces the finest fruits and vegetables in great abundance. Here the bishop has an episcopal residence ; and the Ring of Naples a casino, which was planned by an En- glishman named Thorold, who spent many years of his life on this spot. The monarch sometimes visits his casino for the amusement of shooting quails in the spring, when the flights of those birds are very nunierous : the hills also are well stocked with red-legged partridges. Strabo informs us, that in ancient times this island had two small towns, ivhich were afterwards reduced to one. “ Capreae antiquitus duo habe- bant oppidula, postea vero, modo unuin.” The number is again increased to two, Capri and Ana Capri; the latter of which is the most populous, its ^territory the most extensive, and its soil apparently the richest. The communication between these two towns is very singular, by means of steps (exceeding three hundred) cut in a rock hanging perpendicularly over the sea, and called very appropriately La Scala, or the VOL. V. o 194 CLASSICAL TOUR ladder. This is the only access from the lower to the upper town, and the asses are so accustomed to mount this steep ascent, that they perform it with the greatest safety, of which I can speak with certainty, having myself tried the experiment on their backs. The wines of the island are much esteemed, and the best are transported to Naples. At Ana Capri there is an abundance of fine oak trees, and the hills are covered with myrtles, and a great va- riety of other aromatic herbs and plants. The genial mildness of the December climate is evinced by the Italian narcissus, which is now in full bloom. The air is excellent, being so well venti- lated by sea breezes during the summer months. The sea coast is not very productive of fish, nor is much encouragement given for taking it, as three or four hundred of the best fishermen, leaving Capri during the wintry season, resort to Leghorn, and other places on the coast. The circumference of this island appears to have been exaggerated by Pliny, who estimates it at forty miles. My coun- tryman Addison states it to be four miles in length from east to west, and about one in breadth. The greater part of the island is covered with relics of ancient buildings ; which, if we give THROUGH ITALY. 195 credit to the establishment of twelve imperial villas upon it, may be easily accounted for. Of the fragments now remaining, those of the Pharos or light-house, and of the Villa Jovis, are most de- serving of our attention. We learn from Suetonius, that the former was destroyed by an earthquake, but a few days before the death of Tiberius. “ Et ante paucos quam obiret dies, turris Phari terrae motu Capreis concidit.” This building appears to have been restored, as it has been thus mentioned by Statius : — Teleboumque domos, trepidis ubi dulcia nautis Lumina noctivagse tollit Pharus eemula lunae.” At Caprea, where the lanthorn fix’d on high. Shines like a moon through the benighted sky. While by its beams the wary sailor steers.” Addison. The site of this light-house is still satisfactorily marked by a large and rude fragment. The Villa Jovis is supposed to have been situ- ated on the eastern part of the island, near the Pharos, where considerable remains of ancient structure still exist, in a situation well suited to the disposition of Tiberius. On the Monte di S. Michele there are other extensive ruins, and a long range of vaulted apartments, in a semicircular 196 CLASSICAL TOUR form, with the traces of an ancient road leading to the summit of the mountain. I also observed some fragments of antiquity on a hill where the fortress is placed ; from whence, but a short time ago, some 6ne mosaic pavements, and other relics of antiquity, were removed to Naples. On the northern sea coast there are splendid remains of another villa, still retaining the name of II Palazzo, and supposed to have been one of the Emperor’s winter residences, perhaps that of Augustus, being more genial in its site, and less inaccessible, than the others. Although the anti- quary is enabled to trace, with certainty and in- terest, the vestiges of many of these supposed im- perial villas, yet he will find no specimens of ar- chitecture to commend, no inscriptions to record, the former owners of the district ; for so great an al)horience was shewn by the Romans towards this ferocious and vicious Emperor, that, upon his decease, a large party of men was dispatched into the Island ot Capreae to demolish, and not leave even a stone standing as a memento of those edi- fices, wherein such a series of abominable vices and cruelties had transpired. This Emperor died at Misenum ; and so vehement was the exultation of the Roman people, that on hearing the first news of this event, they exclaimed, “ Away with Tiberius into the Tiber! May the earth, the com- THROUGH ITALY. 1[)7 mon mother of mankind, and the infernal gods, allow no place for the dead but amongst the wicked.” His body, however was conveyed to Rome, and burned with the usual ceremonies. Morte ejus italaetatus est populus, ut ad primum nuntium discurrentes, pars ‘ Tiberium in Tyberim clamitarent pars terram matrem, deosque manes orarent, ne mortuo sedem ullam nisi inter impios darent.” Having before mentioned the discovery of a fine mosaic pavement, as well as a tradition re- specting the twelve imperial villas, I shall insert a quotation from a work published since I visited Capri, and which will throw some interesting light upon each of the above subjects. The work is entitled, “ Ragguaglio di varii scavi e scoverte di antichita fatte nelf isola di Capri dal Signor Hadrava.” 4to. Dresda, 1794. In the year 1786, Signor Hadrava accompa- nied the King of Naples to Capri ; and not being, like his Majesty, a sportsman, amused himself with walking over the island in search of antique relics. Chance conducted him one day to a farm, or masseria, named Castiglione: where some pea- sants pointed out to him a large fig-tree, which had been torn up by the violence of the wind, and had left a great cavity beneath it ; on examination IDS CLASSICAL TOUR of which, he discovered a vaulted apartment, deco- rated with ornaments in stucco. Having obtained the royal permission to pro- secute his researches, he had again the honour of accompanying the King to Capri in the following year ; and on revisiting Castiglione, the scene of his former discoveries, had the satisfaction to find that the peasants had not removed a single stone from the excavation, and that everything remained precisely in the same state in which he had left it. His subsequent researches led to the discovery of two arched rooms, in which, besides other relics, was a fine antique vase of marble. He con- tinued his excavations the third year, when a fourth apartment was found, decorated with a tessellated pavement of various coloured marbles, which Signor Hadrava persuaded the King to visit, as well as another pavement, composed of white marble. The first pavement was afterwards taken up, repaired, and deposited in the royal museum at Naples. Signor Hadrava has endeavoured to trace the site of the twelve villas, ascribed to Tiberius, and has placed them in the following situations. No. 1. Villa Jovis, on the eastern part of the island, where he supposes the palace of Au- THROUGH ITALY. 199 gnstus also stood, and which was afterwards en- larged by his successor Tiberius. 2. The site of the second villa is now occupied by the chapel of S. Michele, on a hill opposite to the promontory on which the Villa Jovis was placed. 3. He fixes the third in the valley of Matro- mania, between two hills, called Tuoro grande and Tuoro piccolo. 4. The fourth stood nella falda, or side of the Tuoro grande, before you come to Tregara, where the remains of a grand aqueduct, &c. are still visible. 5. The fifth at the Camarelle, where our au- thor has fixed the scene of the Emperor’s gross festivities. 6. He places the sixth on the site of the Car- thusian convent, towards the Monticello. 7. The seventh at Castiglione, under the fortress. 8. The eighth in the demesne of Mulo. 200 CLASSICAL TOUR 9> The ninth near Fontana, where many relics of antiquity have been found, and where many grottos still exist. 10. The tenth, called Rustica, is placed in a wood near Ajano. 1 1 . The eleventh, in the plain called Carnpo Episcopio : and the 12. Twelfth and last is supposed by our an- tiquary to have been situate on the sea coast, near La Marinella di torre ; where some exten- sive ruins still retain the title of Palazzo. On the southern side of the island are some insulated rocks, supposed to be those noticed by the classic writers as the ‘^Syrenum Scopuli.” “ Ab altero latere quod Posidoniatem prospectat sinum tres exiguae sunt insulae, desertae atque saxosae, quae vocantur Sirenusae.” — Strabo. And the poet Virgil, alluding to the same rocks, says, Jamque adeo scopulis Sirenum advecta subibat Difliciles quondam, multorumque ossibus albos. In many of the modern names attached to places in this island, we may find a strong re- THROUGH ITALY. 201 ference to antiquity. A cavern in the eastern part of it retaining some antique ornaments, bears the appellation of Matermanium, and was probably once dedicated to some of the infernal deities. Another point of land to the south is distinguished by the title of Tre Are, or three altars ; and a third situation, on a southern coast, still records the Syren, in the name of La Syrena. During my residence at Capri, I was very hos- pitably lodged at the Carthusian convent ; a most eligible situation for those who are desirous of in- vestigating the various districts of this island. On quitting Capri, I intended to have conti- nued a coasting voyage to Amalfi, Majuri, and Sa- lerno ; but a contrary wind and rough sea obliged me to measure back my steps to Sorrento. The channel between the island and the promontory of Minerva is very subject to high seas, occasioned by the contracted current of the channel. I slept at Sorrento, and in the morning re-em- barked, and continued my coasting voyage to the Torre deW Annontiata. The line of coast between Castel a Mare and Sorrento is exceedingly pic- turesque ; in some places the rocks are so perpen- dicular as to appear cut by the chisel, and the fre- c|uent convents and villages that crown the emi- 202 CLASSICAL TOUR nences, enriched by a back ground of majestic mountains, form the most pleasing tout ensemble imaginable. At the Torre deW Annontiata I hired a carriage to convey me to Vietri. I once more passed within sight of Pompeii, and soon afterwards crossed the river Sarno, at a place called La Sea- fat a. This neighbourhood is celebrated in modern times for a miraculous Madona, and an annual feast and benediction, when the bishop (like Moses) causes water to spout from the earth, and form a bath, into which invalids plunge themselves, and receive, if not a real, at least an imaginary cure for all their complaints. A little further is Nucera, situated above Pom- peii, on the same river Sarno. It was formerly a Roman colony, under the various titles of Nuceria Constantina and Nuceria Alfaterna, to distinguish it from the little town of Nucera in Umbria. Cluverius says, that it was made a Roman colony, under the former title, by the Emperor Augustus ; and Frontinus, in his Liber de Coloniis, confirms this event. “ Nuceria Constantia muro ducta colonia jussu Imperatoris Augusti.” The cultiva- tion of the plain around this town is similar to that which is generally adopted in the Campania Felice ; the soil is volcanic and fertile ; the vines THROUGH ITALY. ^03 are trained amongst lofty poplars, and hang in festoons from tree to tree ; and the rich uniformity of this scenery is terminated by lofty mountains that bound the plain on each side. On quitting Nocera, the country becomes more hilly, and the plains more contracted ; the mountains are enriched with a luxuriant covering of chesnut and other forest trees, and enlivened by various buildings on their declivities. The envi- rons of Vietri and La Cava have been always held in high estimation by the admirers of picturesque scenery, and considered as not inferior to any in Italy : to these sequestered scenes both Gaspar Poussin and Salvator Rosa directed their attention ; and the modern landscape painter, who is anxious for improvement, cannot employ his time better than in following their footsteps. The valley leading from the village of Molina to Corpo della Cava^ and to the fine abbey of La Trinita, situated in the bosom of mountains, affords a constant succession of picturesque views : the little valley leading from Molina to the sea coast presents scenery of a more domestic nature. A clear and rapid stream, which, near Molina, issues from a deep and hollow cavern, overhung with wood, and adorned with huge and extravagant stalactites, flows through this narrow valley, and supplies 204 CLASSICAL TOUR several mills with water, which, added to the rustic bridges, aqueducts, &c. form many excellent subjects for the pencil. The summit of Monte S. Liberatore commands a most extensive and magnificent view ; the sea coast of Vietri is very picturesque; in short, wherever the eye fixes its attention, it meets the gayest and most pleasing scenery imaginable. On the hills are many small round towers, erected for the purpose of catching wood-pigeons, which re- sort thither in flocks during the months of Sep- tember and October, when they are taken in great plenty. One of these towers, called La Falom- hiera, or dove house, is placed in a very striking situation, under the Monte S. Liberatore, which is finely wooded with oak and ilex. On my return to Naples, I stopped near No- cera to visit an ancient church, called Madonna della V ittoria. Its form is circular, and its roof is supported by thirty pillars of different marbles, placed in pairs, and forming a colonnade at a certain distance from the outward wall. Within this circle is an octangular bason, once surrounded by eight single columns, three of which are now missing. On each side of the altar are two double pillars, and on one of the side walls is the THROUGH ITALY. 205 fragment of an antique cornice, bearing the follow- ing inscription : — T . GELLIO . T . L . INGENt^o. AVGVST . OPTIMO . PATRONO T . GELLIVS . T . L . INGENVms. The circular shape and plan of this church may induce us to consider it as having been con- structed by the successors of the Emperor Con- stantine, with the fragments of some more ancient heathen temple. The bason is such as was made use of by the Greeks for baptism by immersion. On a review of this my late tour, I may with truth aver, that few excursions can equal it in in- terest; especially if it had been extended fioni Vietri to Salerno and Paestum ; which I should have done, had I not paid a previous visit to the two latter places. The district through which this journey extends is, in every point of view, most satisfactory and instructive : to the historian, by bringing to his recollection the records and anecdotes .of ancient times ; and to the artist, who on every hill, and in every valley, will catch new ideas for his canvas, and hy seeing nature attired in every garb, will select that which ap- CLASSICAL TOUR •i;o6 pears to him most pleasing and congenial to his own particular feelings. As there are few excursions in Italy so abun- dant in natural beauties and classical interest, I must be allowed to dwell a little longer on this subject ; and endeavour to point out to future tra- vellers the best mode of seeing this district to ad- vantage. As the best and most commodious boats can be procured at Naples, I would provide myself with that necessary apparatus from thence, and availing myself of fine weather, would steer di- rectly to Castel a Mare ; or the boat might be sent thither across the bay, and the journey performed by land. From Castel a Mare I would coast the romantic shore by Vico to Sorrento ; where I would halt a day, in order to view its pleasing environs ; and from thence proceed to the ruins of Pollio’s villa, on the coast at Puolo, from which I would steer to the island of Capri. Having satisfied my curiosity on that classical spot, I would land on the point of land, called La punta della Campanella^ and endeavour to find oat the ruins of the temple dedicated to Minerva on this promontory, and so often alluded to by the THROUGH ITALY. classical writers. I would afterwards, if picturesque scenery afforded any attraction, continue a coasting voyage by Amalfi and Majuri to Salerno, where I would dismiss my boat, and change my mode of conveyance to the more distant objects of curiosity at Paestum. From the non-existence of any inn between Salerno and Paestum (and an Englishman scarcely thinks any other place comfortable, or even habit- able), the ruins of the ancient Posidonia are very imperfectly seen, though so often visited by every traveller of taste, science, and curiosity. Great activity and very early rising are necessary to catch even a partial glimpse of these noble relics of antiquity; and I speak from experience, and feelingly, on this subject, for I viewed them myself in the usual transitory, imperfect, and unsatis- factory manner ; and could I have spared time for a repeated visit, I had determined on procuring shelter at some osteria, or under some cloistered roof in the neighbouring village of Capaccio ; where, from its elevated situation, no danger from maV aria would be encountered, and from whence the short intervening distance between that place and Paestum would have enabled me to investigate with leisure and attention the splendid ruins of the ancient city of Posidonia. CLASSICAL TOUR ^OS From Salernoj whose environs afford many excellent subjects for the pencil, and whose name is celebrated in history, I would make myself acquainted with the beautiful scenery around La Cava and Vietri, and from thence continue my journey through Nocera and Stabiae to Pompeii. Here every feeling of sentiment and admiration will be most powerfully excited ; and here, by the faithful and unadulterated representation of an ancient city, we shall live, as it were, in Roman times, and for a moment forget the lapse of so many centuries. After the interesting spectacle afforded at Pom- peii, our subterraneous researches into its neigh- bouring fellow sufferer, Herculaneum, will in a great measure lose their interest ; but that interest will be speedily recovered on a view of the Royal Museum at Portici, the grand receptacle of all the precious relics of antiquity that have been rescued from the ruins of Stabise, Pompeii, and Hercula- neum. Here the eye will long dwell with rapture and amazement on the varied mass of articles restored to light by the industry/ of man ; but at the same time it will regret, that more industry has not been employed in the prosecution of such valuable researches. An ascent to Mount Vesuvius, and a peep into THROUGH ITALY. 209 its fiery crater, will rnaks a grand Jinale to this tour, which in point of variety, interest, and an- tiquity cannot be surpassed, and I doubt if to be equalled, within the extensive district of Italy. VOL. V. p 310 CLASSICAL TOUR JOURNAL OF A TOUR TO THE ISLAND OF ISCHIA. Sunday, Sept. 12, 1790. I sailed from Naples, at break of day, in a stout Ischian boat, with ten men. Partly by rowing, and partly by the help of a fresh breeze, I was safely conveyed to the Island of Ischia in four hours and a half. The distance is computed at eighteen miles. With pleasure I looked back on the well-known shores of Pausilippo, Puzzuoli, Baiae,andMisenum ; the beauties and antiquities of which had called forth all my classical enthusiasm. I passed close under the Island of Procida ; whose fortress, tow- ering on its highest point, and backed by the lofty and precipitous mountains of Ischia, formed an object highly picturesque. This island is flat and well cultivated, and the natural industry of the inhabitants is rewarded by ease, and even affluence. I was told, that no less than two hundred of the vessels called Tartans belonged to the inhabitants; and I observed many riding in the harbour. Be- THROUGH ITALY. 211 tween twenty and thirty of these are owned by one proprietor. This island disputed with Salerno the honour of giving birth to the cele- brated Giovanni di Procida, the contriver of the well-known insurrection against the French, and a principal actor in the massacre, distinguished by the title of the Sicilian Vespers. A good lodging had been prepared for me, at tne Casa degli Inglesi, adjoining the Casino of Buonocuore, where the king resides during his visits to this island. It had the additional ad- vantage of commanding a pleasing and extensive prospect. The Island of Ischia has been mentioned by ancient writers under the dilFerent names of /Fnaria, Pitheeusa, and Inarime. Strabo imagines, that, with Procida and Capri, it has been separated from the continent by some natural convulsion ; and Pliny conjectures, that, like some of the Lipari Islands, it owes its origin to a volcanic eruption, which raised it up out of the sea. From history we learn, that its earliest inhabitants were of the same nation as those who occupied the opposite coast of Cuma, and who originally migrated from Chalcis in Euboea. In later times it was ex- changed for the Isle of Capri, by the Emperor Augustus. Of this island Strabo has preserved CLASSICAL TOUR an interesting account, by which we iearu that the Chalcidenses quitted it in consequence of a sedition which arose among them ; and that soon after- wards the Eretrienses, as well as the inhabitants sent hither by Hiero, tyrant of Syracuse, w'ere also compelled to desert it, by earthquakes and volcanic eruptions. “ Pithecusas Eretrienses incoluerunt atque Chalcidenses. Quum autem, oh agri fertilitatem, atque auri metalla, rebus uterentur prosperis j seditione aborts, insulam Chalcidenses deseruerunt. Mox etiam Eretrienses terrse motibus exturbati, ignisque et maris et calidarum aquarum eruptione ; patitur enirn insula hujusmodi eructationes ; prop- ter quas, etiam missi e6, ah Hierone Syracusanorum tyranno, et ipsi inaenia ah se extructa, una cum insula deseruerunt, cpiain inde Neapolitan! occuparunt. Atque bine fahula est, Typhonem sub hac jacere insula, obversuque corporis flammas exspirare et aquas, quandoque etiam insulas rninutas, ferventem habentes aquam. Timoeus de Pithecusis tradit, multa de iis fidern excedentia perhibuisse veteres : at paulo ante suarn aetatem media in insula Epope- um collem,motu terrae concussum,ignes evomuisse, et quod terrae inter mare et eum erat rursum ad mare perpulisse ; terramque in cineres versarn, rursum, violento turbine, ad insularn accessissc, tribusque inde in altum reccssisse stadiis. Paulo post.. THROUGH ITALY. 213 ¥tirsum acl terrain dedisse impetum, inarisque re- flexu insulam imindasse, ignemque, hoc pacto, in extinctiim ; fragore aiitein perculsos mortales, qni continentem incolebant, ab ora rnaritiiria in interiora Cainpaniee profngisse.” From this ancient historical record we learn, that the Chalcidenses were the original inhabitants, or first settlers, in Ischia ; that they were succeeded by the Eretrians ; and these by the Neapolitans. We find, also, that a mountain in the centre of the island, called Epopeus, suddenly vomited forth flames ; and that this eruption, joined with the concussion of a tremendous earthquake, excited such terror, as to drive the inhabitants on the con- tinent from the shore into the interior of Cam- pania. These convulsions are mentioned by Pliny, and other classic writers ; and Julius Obsequeus, in his Liber de Prodigiis, fixes the date of one in the year of Rome ioclxii. “ L. Marcio, Sex. Julio, Consulibus, yEnarlae terras hiatu flamma exorta in coelum emicuit.” Such phoenomena, as well as the fable of Typhoeus, have furnished themes and comparisons to the poet. Homer ob- serves, Iliad, lib. ii. Earth groan’d beneath them, as when angry Jove Hurls down the forky lightning from above On Arime, when he the thunder throws. Anil fires Typhoeus with redoubled blows; 214 CLASSICAL TOUR Where lyphon, press’d beneath the burning load^ Still feels the fury of th’ avenging God. Virgil : — Turn sonitu Prochyta alta tremit, durutnque cubile Inarime, Jovis imperiis imposta Typhoeo, They have also not escaped the notice of Lncan and Statius. To the most superficial observer, the surface of this island exhibits the effects of fire, and vol- canic productions; besides many craters, long extinct ; and strata of lava, in dift'erent stage? of vegetation. The lava of the most recent eruption, in 1301, even now bears only a few scattered blades of grass, and some weeds. Hence we may judge how slowly nature operates on this hard substance, when not assisted by the soil washed down from the declivities of mountains, or wafted by the wind. If we examine the many craters with which this spot abounds, particularly the large crater between Ischia and Testaccio, close to the side of the road ; if we next turn our view to the adjoining mountains, at the present covered with a deep soil, and clothed with wood ; we may calculate the high antiquity, not only of such eruptions, but of the globe itself. Indeed, amidst the various evidences which have been adduced THROUGH ITALY 215 by those authors, who have chosen to controvert the general opinion on the supposed age of the world, none seem to carry more force than those deduced from the investigation of volcanic matter. Nor are these evidences founded on mere con- jecture ; for the dates of many eruptions are known, and by tracing the strata of lava, and the marine bodies interspersed, and comparing the relative progress of vegetation over each, we may draw a very probable conclusion in regard to the age of the more remote ; and, per- haps, may be induced to give the world a higher degree of antiquity than is commonly admitted. I For nearly five centuries this island has ceased to exhibit any volcanic eruption ; but the numer- ous hot springs, which continue to emit their vapour, prove that subterraneous fire still exists. Besides these warm springs, however, there are others of an opposite nature ; and from the same mountain, which produces the sulphureous and medicinal waters, a cold spring issues, of the purest quality, and is conveyed by aqueducts to the town of Ischia. Inarime non ubere dives ab uno Fundit aquas. quot medico celebres virtute renident. S16 CLASSICAL TOUR The lofty mountain, now bearing the name of St. Nicolo, is the Epopeus of the classic writers. In medio elatis caput inter nubila condit Rupibus, et valles latb prospectat Epopeus. To me it seemed an .^tna in miniature ; and, like that mountain, it may be divided into three regions, the lower cultivated, the middle clothed with rich groves of oaks and chesnuts, and the upper bleak and barren, producing only a few low shrubs and dwarf trees. It is not, howevei*, without inhabitants; for on this aerial summit some hermits have fixed their abode ; and no anchorite certainly ever selected a more appro- priate spot. Exalted above the dwellings, as they profess to be above the passions, of men, they may look down with an eye of indifference on a prodigious expanse of territory, thickly dotted with towns and villages ; and, contrasting their homely fare, and tranquil situation, with the cares and troubles which attend the wealth and luxury of the world beneath, they may exclaim in the language of the poet. Oh cara, cara, cella, Felice in liberty : QuI poco ognun si gode, E ricco ognun si crede } Ne pib bramando, impara Che cosa e Poverty. THROUGH ITALY. 217 In contemplating the opposite coasts of Pii- teoli, Baiae, and Misenuni, and contrasting their past splendour with their present decline, we have a living and perpetual lesson on the frailty ot human power, and the transitory nature of worldly magnificence. The summit of the mountain is composed of a whitish earth, similar to that of the Solfaterra, near Puzzuoli, dreary and dismal to the eye ; and it commands rather a striking, than a pleasing, view. With respect to beauty, the views from the middle region, and the less elevated part, merit a decided preference. The island is well peopled and well cultivated. The most considerable towns are Ischia (the seat of the bishop), Furia, Laco, and Casamiccia. Of these, Furia contains the largest portion of inha- bitants. The situation of Ischia is singularly pic- turescpie. It crowns a high and rugged rock, which projects into the sea, and is connected with the island by a long pier, or bridge. The whole face of this rock is covered with buildings, rising above each other in a pyramidical form, and pre- senting a novel and striking appearance. Little or no corn is sown, and the country is chiefly planted with vines, and other fruit-trees. Near 218 CLASSICAL TOUR Ischia and towards Testaccio, the vines are trained to lofty popiar trees ; but in the vicinity of Furia, and the southern part of the island, they are not trained so high. Terraces have been constructed to remedy the inconvenience derived from the ine- tjuality of the ground, and to render the declivities productive ; but the wines obtained by this mode of cultivation, unassisted by the genial rays of the sun, are little better than vinegar. Those near Furia are white, and more esteemed. The island produces abundance of figs, and its fruits in general are in high repute. The mountains, which are uncultivated, are chiefly clothed with groves of chesnut trees, or with coppice wood and low shrubs, such as ar- butus, myrtle, heath, &c. Even in this sultry season the whole island exhibits the most lively verdure; and the numerous habitations scattered along the declivities add much to the gaiety of the prospect. The air is pure and elastic ; creates an appetite; and renders the body alert and active. Horses and carriages are almost as rare here as at Venice ; and asses are chiefly used, both for burthen and riding. An excellent road is now making from Ischia to Furia, which, though un- finished, is practicable on horseback. The northern district, and the environs of Ischia, are far more picturesque than the southern ; THROUGH ITALY. 219 which is chiefly appropriated to the culture of the vine, and rendered disagreeable in its appearance by numerous stone walls and terraces. Of the many beautiful prospects which this island affords, I prefer that near Campagnana, at the south-eastern extremity of the island. Here, at a single glance, the eye may command the whole gulph of Naples, and trace distinctly those classic scenes which are described by Virgil, and other writers of antiquity. Beginning with the rugged rocks of Capreae, rendered famous by the imperial residence of Augustus, and infamous by that of Tiberius, the spectator may cast his view across the narrow channel, which separates the island from the Promontory of Minerva, and contem- plate the beautiful shores of Massa, Sorrento, Vice, and Castelamare. The sites now occupied by the remains of Stabiae, Pompeii, and Herculaneum, and the fiery mountain to which they owe their ruin, may next engage his attention. He will re- flect with surprise on the boldness of the present generation, who have erected their numerous and sumptuous palaces on the very ashes of the cities destroyed ; and will dread lest a repetition of the same tremendous phenomena should at some future period involve the modern establishments in a similar fate, and again consign to ages of oblivion the valuable and curious remnants of •220 CLASSICAL TOUR antiquity, which have been recently brought to light. The melancholy feelings which this prospect awakens, are soothed by a view of the gay, the luxurious Parthenope, the abode of ease and vo- luptuousness ; and the enchanting coast of Pausi- lippo, where Lucullus, and many other distin- guished Romans, sought a relief from the cares and bustle of the capital. From thence the eye will rove over the nearer shores of Nisida, Puteoli, and BaitB, once the seats of pleasure and licenti- ousness : first the retreat of Marius, Sylla, Cicero, and the Caesars ; and afterwards contaminated by the debaucheries, the cruelties, and the parricide, of Nero. From hence the eye may range along the bold promontory of Misenum, and its Elysian fields ; may mark the situation of the ancient Cuma ; and finally, after dwelling on the neigh- bounng island of Procida, may repose on the observatory station, which has furnished one of the most exquisite panoramas that nature can dis- play, or taste select ; and no less distinguished by historical and poetical interest, than by picturesque beauty. Enough, I think, has been said to shew the gratification which the man ol taste and letters may experience, by following iny footsteps in TUROUGH ITALY. <2^21 Ischia. The artist, who makes landscape painting his pursuit, and who seeks to enlarge his ideas by studying nature in every garb, will here .find scenes of domestic, rather than of a shewy, cha- racter ; consisting of delightful cottages, extensive vineyards, and rich groves of chesnuts, &c. &c. But the position and construction of the town of Ischia will appear no less novel than picturesque ; while the waving shores of Baias, Misenum, and Pateoli, and the more distant coasts of Naples and Sorrento, will be viewed and copied with equal sa- tisfaction and advantage. Much, however, as this spot may please the artist, it will awaken a higher feeling in the mind of the scholar. Here he will find his recollection quickened, and his ideas ex- panded ; here he will reconsider in reality the scenes which in description captivated his youthful fancy ; here he may at once indulge his memory and his eye by contemplating prospects no less delightful to the view than gratifying to the understanding. Such were my sensations on reviewing this truly classic ground from the heights of Inarime ; and such will doubtless be those of many a future traveller, who may choose to give full scope to the spirit of investigation, and deviate from the beaten track, which is too generally indicated by guides and ciceroni. CLASSICAL TOUR 2'-l2 Saturday, Sept. 18 . I bade adieu to this charming island, and after an agreeable voyage of live hours and a half reached Naples ; where I observed a manifest change in the aspect of the bay, in consequence of the eruption of a large body of lava from Mount Vesuvius. THROUGH ITALY. 2^3 JOURNAL OF A TOUR TO CASERTA, VENAFRO, AND ISERNIA. During two successive visits to the city of Naples, I had explored the most interesting dis- tricts, which border its enchanting bay; yet the love of novelty, and a taste for antiquities, pre- sented new objects of research, and prompted me to still further excursions. The celebrity of a fair annually held at Iseruia, in one of the interior provinces of the Neapolitan territory, and the account I had heard of some singular ceremonies, which were observed on the occasion, induced me to make that place the next object of my investigation. Saturday, Sept. 25, 1790. I quitted Naples in the morning; and after dining at Caserta, visited the royal villa at Belvedere, otherwise 224 CLASSICAL TOUR called 8t. Lucia, where the king has established a little colony, and sundry manufactories of silks, velvets, gauzes, &c. &c. The situation of this villa is truly pleasant, and commands an extensive view of the Campagna Felice; in the midst of which the royal palace raises its grand and majestic form. Sunday, Sept. 26. At sunrise I departed from Cuserta, in company with Don Andrea Paruta, and Messrs. Philip and George Hackert, one a cele- brated landscape painter, the other a no less eminent engraver; whose joint labours have been employed in views of the most interesting anti- quities and beautiful prospects round Naples. Passing near the ruins of the once opulent city of Capua, and crossing the river Vulturnus, at the modern town, we were detained at least three quarters of an hour by the officers, who registered and verified our passports. For this ceremony we are indebted to the French nation ; because, since the commencement of the Revolution, the inha- bitants of that country are so much dreaded, and suspected by the Neapolitan government, that passports have become necessary, even for a trifling party of pleasure. We continued our journey for some time on the track of an ancient road, and then turning to THROUGH ITALY. •225 the right, followed the course of the Via Latina to Calvi, the Cales of the classic writers. Soon after we reached the little osteria, at Torricella, which is built on the ancient causeway. We dined in a small inn at Sesto, close to a bridge over the river Sesto, and the sacristy of a small chapel adjoining served us as a parlour. In a list of several tolls and duties, payable at the Passo del Sesto, which was exhibited on a tablet near the osteria, I noticed a singular exemption in favour of harlots, thus expressed : “ Item, per qualsi voglia meretrice, non si esige cosa alcuna.” After dinner we proceeded to Venafro, a town placed immediately under a lofty mountain, and not far from the banks of the river Vulturnus, which here skirts a noble forest of oaks, reserved as a royal chase. On crossing a bridge, near Vena- fro, I observed some stones, with the traces of in- scriptions, but too much obliterated to be deci- phered. The territory of Venafro was much cele- brated by the ancients for the excellence of its oil. Strabo says, Consimiliter et olei ferax est totus Venafranus tractus. Juvenal, sat. 5, Ipse Venafrano piscem perfundit, at hie qui Pallidus oflfertur inisero tibi caulis, olebit Laternaiu. VOL. V. Q 226 CLASSICAL TOUR And Martial, lib. 13, Hoc tibi Campani sudavit bacca Venafri Unguentum, quoties sumis, et istud olet. Tlie environs of Venafro still abound with olive trees ; but their produce is no longer distinguished for excellence. Beyond Venafro I observed an antique sarco- phagus, lying by the side of the road, and orna- mented in the centre with two busts. Having traversed the river Vulturnus by a ferry, we passed near the little town of Macchia. On the opposite side of the road I noticed some mutilated in- scriptions ; and among the rest the following, affixed to a house on the right of the road, and in good preservation. M. CALIDIO. L. F. TRO. BALBINO. IIIL VIR. I. D. ITER. QVINQ. TRIB. MIL. LVCIVS. FILIVS. FECIT. We completed our journey to Isernia before the day closed. The distance from Naples is fifty-four miles, and from Caserta forty-three. The road new and excellent ; the country pleasant, well cultivated, and well wooded; and adorned with many noble groves of oaks. At Sesto, the THROUGH ITALY. 227 prospects became more picturesque; consisting of fine plains, bounded by majestic mountains. I noticed some rice grounds near Sesto. About Venafro the air is deemed unwholesome. The mountainous district, in general, is well wooded, and the scenery is much enlivened by a continued succession of small villages. Isernia was known to the ancients by the name of Msernia ; and under that appellation is mentioned by Silius, Pliny, and Livy. It was co- lonized by the Romans at two different periods. The epitomist of Livy, lib. 16, says, ‘‘ Colonia iEsernia deducta est;” and Frontinus, “ iEsernia colonia deducta, lege Julia.” The Roman town was situated on the eastern hank of the river Vul- turnus, where many vestiges of antiquity may still be traced. The present town consists of one long and narrow street. About the middle is a Gothic, or Norman gateway, the angles of which are adorned with four antique statues. Near it are two sar- cophagi, on the friezes of which are basso relievos, and inscriptions. In another part of the town is an antique statue, placed lengthways, as the resting stone of a window. A round column with basso relievos is to be seen in the cortile of the Monas- terio di Sta. Maria. Of the original walls some 228 CLASSICAL TOUK i*0iiitiiiiS GXistj aiitl Vtirious mscviptioiis iiic dispcisscl through the town ; the most perfect of which I transcribe, as given me by a native of Isernia. No. I. IVNONl . REGINAE . SOSPITI . C. NVMI" SIVS . C . L . MENSAR . ET . VLPIA . AMA- BILIS VOT . LIB . SOL. No. 2. GENI DEIVI IVLI PARENTIS PATRIAE . QVEM SENATVS POPVLVSQVE ROMANVS . IN DEORVM . NVMER . RETVLIT. No. 3. P. SEPTIMIO. P. F. TRO. PATERCVLO. PRAEF. COH . I . PANNONICAE IN . BRI- TANNIA . PRAEF . COH . HISPANOR . IN . CAPPADOCIA . FLAMINI . DIVI . TRAIANI . PATRONO . MVNICIPI • HU • VIR . S. D- nil . VIR. Q.Q II D. D. No. 4. C . ENNIVS . C . L. FAVSTILIVS^ . SEVIR . AVG . PATRONVS . COLLEGII CVLTORVM . HERCVL . GALLIANI .V F. THROUGH ITALY. 229 No. 5. FABIO . MAXIMO . V. C. INSTAVRATORI MOENIVM PVRLICORVM . ORDO . ET . POPVLVS . CVRANTE . AVRELIO PAVLI- NIANO. CYRATORE . ET . PATRONO. The stone No. 1 is dedicated to the goddess Juno ; who was first worshipped in the city of Lanuviumj under the title of Sospita. According to Cicero, de Naturd Deorum, she was represented as clothed in a goat’s skin, armed with a spear and small shield, and her feet protected by broad san- dals. “ Ejus simulacrum fingebatur cum pelle ca- prin^, cum hasta, cum scutulo, cum calceolis repan- dis.” The persons who dedicated this memorial were C. Numisius and Vlpia Amabilis. To the first is annexed the title of MensariuSy which, not having occurred in any of the numerous inscriptioiis I have copied, requires some explanation. The Mensarius^ according to Pitiscus, differed from the Argentarius, or silversmith ; the first holding a public office by appointment, and being charged with the care of the public money ; the other being, perhaps, as at present, a private tradesman. “ Men- sarius differt ah Argentario : publicam enim ratio- nem confecit, et rei nummariae publicae curator fuit. Argentarius privatum, et negotiationis pri- 230 CLASSICAL TOUR vatae curator fuit. Itaque Mensarii Roniae mod6 quinque viri, modo triumviri, sunt creati. Ar- gentarii, ut etiam reliqui mercatores, nullius re- ctione, judicio suo, rem nummariam exercue- runt.” The inscription No. 2 is consecrated to the memory of Julius Caesar, whom the Roman se- nate and people had classed among the gods. The inscription No. 3 is in honour of Septimius Paterculus, who was praefect of the Coho?'s primes Pannonicce, in Britain ; praefect of the Cohors His- paniarum, in Cappadocia ; and flamen to the Em- peror Trajan*. * I have hitherto sought in vain for information respect- ing the Cohors Pannonica in Britain. It is not mentioned by the industrious Horsley, who, in his Britannia Romana, has collected every memorial existing of the Roman legions that served in Britain. The Legio, as well as Cohors Pannonica, occur in Gruter’s Collection of Inscrij)tions, and in the No- titia Imperii ; but in the former it is mentioned as stationed in Dacia, not in Britain. The office of Jlamen, when first established, was filled by some priest, whose duty consisted in the service of one pe- culiar deity j and the flamen dialis devoted to Jupiter held the highest rank. In later times, however, this honour be- came more general j and we find by this inscription, as well THROUGH ITALY. 231 No. 4 is a memorial dedicated by C. Ennius FaustiliuSj who was patron of the college of the worshippers of Hercules. No. 5 is a very perfect inscription, in honour of Fabius Maximus, who repaved the public walks of the city. So much for the res lapidaria. The other frag- ments of antiquity, which occurred to my obser- vation, at Isernia, and in the neighbourhood, were the vestiges of a subterraneous aqueduct, at some distance from the town, on the road towards Sulmone ; and part of a little bridge nearer the town. In the walls of a field I noticed also two pilasters, of the Corinthian order, cut in single stones. I now come to the principal object of my ex- cursion, namely, the singular festival held at Isernia, in honour of St. Cosma and St. Damiano. Of as by others in Gruter and Muratori, that the emperors had each their flamens. “■ Flamens,” says Pitiscus, “ erat no- men sacerdotis, qui alicui Deo peculiariter consecratus. Flamen Dialis, Jovi consecratus, erat maximae dignationis inter omnes. Posteh. in municipiis, ubi creabantur a decuri- onibus, &c. ^32 CLASSICAL TOUR this festival I shall first transcribe the account given me by a reverend member of the com- munity. “ Evvi in Isernia, in una collina, distante della citt^ circa mezzo miglio, un Santuario dedicate k SSi Martiri Cosma e Damiano. In esso a 26, 27, 28 di Septembre, che ne ricorre la festa, fassi nna fiera,dove occorrono a venders! gran quantita d’ ani- mal! d’ ogni spezie, molti mercanti Napoletani, ^ d’ altri luoghi, con panni, tele, seterie, galanterie, ed ogni altro genere adatto al commodo della vita, e molti Argentieri. Vi viene, piir^, gran quantity di grano, vettovaglie, legumi, frutta, ed altri generi comestabili. “ Gran parti, per6, della gente vi occorre pel' divozione dei SSi Martiri, de’ quali altri per cercar grazie della salute, per cui si vedono molti storpii : altri in ringraziaraento delle grazie ricevute, ed in adempimento de’ voti fatti. Di tali divoti altri portano messi in onore dei SSi ; altri comprano nella citta, a nel ristretto della fiera, i rispettivi voti, consistent! in piedi, gambi, braccia, occhi, capi, mani, membri genital!, e personnaggi intieri, di cera rossa, che si formano a tal iiso da’ natural! d Isernia, quali voti si comprano da divoti, che hanno sofferta 1 infer mita, o in qnal che membro THROUGH ITALY. 233 della vita, ed in tiitto il corpo ; e si presentano con qualclie limosina alii Sacerdoti, adatti per tal mestiere, e situati parte avanti le porte della chiesa, e parte nell’ ingresso della medesima, anclie per ungere li divoti coll’ olio benedetto, e dispensare carafieri di tal olio. “ Ttil chiesa e governata dal capitolo di quella citta, per cni nel giorno precedente alia festa, vi porta processionalmente le statue clei Santi, con le reliquie del braccio ; ed in tntto il tempo della fiera, vi assistono quasi tutti del Capitolo, chi per confessare, chi per ad- rainistrare Folio benedetto, per cantar litanie, o per ricevere le oblazioni, voti, messe, e limosine, die si presentano da’ divoti, per cui introito molto il capitnlo predetto, il quale tiene il privilegio del jus privative della taverna, che suole affittare col diritto proibitivo agli altri paesani di vendere robe cucinate nella fiera predetta, e fuori. La citt^ non e bastante al commodo di tutta la gente, die si porta alia fiera, percio si vedono dentro la citta, da passo in passo, altre taverne, ed ostarie, anclie formate d’ impalizzate intralciate di frasdic. La fiera e franca d’ogni dazio, e percio e la piu popo- lata di tutte le altre di quella citta.” From this account, we learn that there is a sanctuary dedicated to two Saints and Martyrs, 234 CLASSICAL TOUR Cosma and Damiano*, upon a hill, about half a mile from the city of Isernia; and that on the 26th, 27th, and 28th of September, when a feast is celebrated to their honour, a fair is also held, which, being free from all duties and tolls, is much frequented by tradesmen from Naples, and other places. Great numbers of cattle, of different kinds, are brought hither for sale, as well as corn, greens, fruits, and other eatables, in abundance ; and vast quantities of cloths, linen, silks, jewellery, and trinkets of every sort. But the principal part of the people assemble here from devotion to the * Disquisitio Historica de Sanctis Martiribus Cosma et Damianoj Mezzadri, 4to, Romae, 1 747.” This disquisition is chiefly confined to the history of the church, dedicated to the Saints at Rome ; and contains no information respecting that at Isernia. In page 3, however, I find a quotation from Gregory of Tours, who lived about the year 596, which gives some account of these two cele- brated saints. “ Divi, verb gemini, Cosmas scilicet et Da- mianus, arte medici postquam Christian! effecti sunt, solo virtutum merito, et orationum interventu infirmitates lan- guentium depellebant, qui diversis cruciatibus consummati, in coelestibus sunt conjuncti, multa miracula incolis osten- dentes,” &c. &c. The author adds, “ Cosmas et Damianus fratres Arabes, in ^ge& urbe nati, nobiles medici imperatori- bus Diocletiano et Maximiniano, non magis medicinse scien- ti^, quam Christi virtutc; morbis etiam insanabilibus mede- bantur. THROUGH ITALY. 235 two patron saints ; some to seek grace and health ; others to return thanks for favours already re- ceived, or to fulfil their vows. Some pay the priests for offering up masses, others purchase ClI’ *voto in the fair, consisting of feet, legs, arms, eyes, heads, hands, memhri gemtali, and even whole figures ; according as a part, or the whole body, is affected by disease. These are manufac- tured with red wax by the natives of Iseinia, and presented, with a considerable donation, to the priests, who, on this occasion, officiate in front of the church. At the same time, other members of the community are employed in receiving the gifts of the devout, in anointing their eyes with holy oil, or in distributing small phials of the precious liquid. From some of the ceremonies performed at this festival, in a very devout manner, so late as 1780, we may trace, with the most satisfactory certainty, the vestiges of those festivals, which, in more re- mote times, were held in honour of the heathen deity Priapus, and which must readily occur to the recollection of every classical scholar. This deity, as the principal of fecundity, was stiled the God of Gardens, Deus Hortorum ; and on the days sacred to him, his effigy was crowned with garlands of fruit and flowers. From this we may also deduce our own custom of crowning the May-pole with 236 CLASSICAL TOUR flowers on May-day. Indeed, Dr. Middleton, in his letter from Rome, has traced, in an ingenious manner, the similarity between many points of the Heathen and Roman Catholic worship; and has proved that many rites, which took their rise in paganism, have continued to prevail in the modern times of Christianity*. This extraordinary festival, which had prevailed at Isernia till 1 780, would probably have still con- tinued, had not a road been made, at that period, from Naples to the distant province of Abbruzzo. As it travei'sed Isernia the festival became more generally known, and a certain degree of scandal * The existence of this festival and fair, and the attend- ant ceremonies, became partially known to my countrymen, in 1786, when a learned dissertation on the worship of Priapus was printed by R. Payne Knight, esq. and delivered to each member of the Diletanti Society, in the number of whom I was afterwards included. A letter, written by Sir William Hamilton, from Naples, in 1781, describing the fair of Isernia, and its ceremonies, seems to have given rise to this ingenious disquisition. It has been treated with un- merited asperity by the author of the Pursuits of Literature ; who, in his zeal for delicacy, forgot that equ.-il objections, if not greater, might be made to books of Anatomy, which are generally sold, whereas the Treatise in question was never published, but distributed privately to the members of .a very limited society. THROUGH ITALY. 23/ was attached to a part of the ceremony. A royal order was accordingly issued, to prohibit the offer- ing of a certain class of ex mto, and it is still strictly and properly enforced. I, however, pro- cured a specimen of these votive memorials, which, though indelicate in themselves, are yet curious to an antiquary, as proofs of the deep hold which this ceremony, originally heathen, had taken on the public mind. Isernia was originally a city of some consequence, in the province of Samnium, and now forms part of the Contcido di lilolise. Its situation is peculiarly picturesque ; and the environs contain every requisite for landscape composition ; wood, rock, water, buildings, the most extensive and varied distances, all combine to render it no less interesting to the artist than it is to the anti- quary. But although the most striking peculiarity of the festival, to the eyes of the antiquary, has been abolished, yet the period of the fair should be chosen for a visit thither ; because a more ani- mated and singular scene can nowhere be found. The concourse of people is immense ; and the va- riety of fashions and colours, displayed in the dress of the female peasants, truly novel and curious ; each district has its peculiar colour and costume ; and the married and single are distinguished by certain varieties of habit, i was, indeed, so de- lighted with the natural beauties of the scenery. CLASSICAL TOUR 23 S heigliteiied, as they were, by so auiniated and picturesque a spectacle, that I forgot the j)riucipal object of my journey, as well as the disappointment which I should probably have felt under other circumstances. Isernia has suffered severely from the destruc- tive effects of earthquakes, which have probably obliterated the principal antique structures, and left so few vestiges of former times. The popu- lation is estimated at above five thousand souls. Its territory produces wine, oil, and fruits of a de- licious flavour. The vines are planted and cut near the ground, and the wines are rather w'eak in quality ; but a great supply of vine plants is sent from hence to the interior and mountainous parts of Abbruzzo. The river Vulturnus affords excel- lent trout and eels. I cannot take leave of the place, without testi- fying my gratitude for the generous and hospitable reception which I experienced under the roof of the worthy Bishop Paruta, an excellent and amiable prelate, the father of his flock, and beloved and esteemed by all who knew him. The following books, independent of the ge- neral description by Cluverius, will illustrate this THROUGH ITALY. 239 particular district : 1 . Memorie del Sannio, (Ci- arlanti). Folio, Isernia, 1644. 2. Descrizione del Contado di Molise. (Galanti.) Octavo, Napoli, 1781. 3. Viaggio per lo Contado del Molise. Octavo, Napoli, 1788. ‘240 CLASSICAL TOUR AN EXCURSION FROM NAPLES TO CA- JAZZO, PIEDIMONTE, &c. &c. Saturday, Oct. 9, 1790. I again left Naples, and having paid another visit to the ruins of the ancient Capua, proceeded to Caserta. Here I dined, and in the evening walked up to the royal garden, which has been laid out in the English style. A violent storm of rain, accompanied by thunder and lightning, confined me to my lodgings the following morning ; but in the evening I pro- ceeded on my journey, accompanied by Messrs. Hackert and Mr. Greffer. Having passed the royal manufactory at St. Leucia, and afterwards a hunting villa, belonging to the King, we descended by a steepish hill into the plain of Sarzana ; which is surrounded by an amphitheatre of mountains, and watered by the river Vulturnus. To the right we left a fine sloping wood of forest trees, the summit of which is crowned with the royal villa. An excellent road, through avenues of elm and THROUGH ITALY. ^41 poplar trees, led us to a ferry over the river Vul- turnus. In the plain of Sarzana I observed a frag- ment of the opus reticulatum ; and was afterwards informed that coins, and other relics of antiquity, had been frequently found on the spot. Having traversed the river, we passed to the right of the Royal Pheasantry, where numbers of that species of game are bred and preserved for the diversion of the monarch, ^nd to the detriment of the pea- santry. The damage they occasion is, indeed, an- nually estimated, and some compensation made, but not ad vabi'em. Leaving the plain, we gradually ascended to Cajazzo, a small town, built on an eminence, and commanding a fine view of the surrounding country, with the vale beneath, and the meandering course of the river Vulturnus. This town was known to the ancients, under the name of Calatia; and is frequently mentioned both by poets and historians. But if we may judge from the ex- pression of Silius, Nec parvis aberat Calatia muris. it was never distinguished for its sizie. I looked in vain for antiquities. The only inscription, which I discovered, was inserted in the wall belonging to the southern gate, and too mutilated to be legible. VOL. V. R 242 CLASSICAL TOUR I imagine the original walls must have formed nearly the same circuit as the modern ; for in va- rious places I observed several of the large blocks, with which they had been originally constructed. We were hospitably received by the Padre Guar- diano of the Conventuali. Cajazzo belongs to the Marchese Corsi, a noble Florentine, whose agent resides in the castle at the upper part of the town. Monday, October 11. We continued our journey to Piedimonte, distant twelve miles from Cajazzo. From the latter town we descended, and traversed a pleasant vale, well cultivated, and enriched with wood. The prospect is enbvened by villages and ruined castles scattered over the declivities, and many luxuriant groves of oaks add to the general beauty of the surrounding scenery. Crossing the Vulturnus a second time, we entered another wide and extensive plain, having in front the lofty Apennines, amidst which the elevated point of Monte Matese^ or Monte MilettOy forms a prominent feature. We then passed the ancient town of Alife, in the plain ; and entered a venei- able avenue of aged poplars, two miles in length, which finally led us to Piedimonte, where a friend had procured us a comfortable lodging. As the pictui'escpie, not the antique, was the chief object of my search in this place, we were THROUGH ITALY. 248 highly mortified in being confined to onr apart- ment, the greater part of four days, by heavy and incessant rains. The environs of this village are singularly delightful ; and the scenery is unlike any which had occurred during my different travels. Adjoining the village is a narrow glen, sunk between two stupendous mountains, which appear to have been separated by some awful convulsion of nature. The gloomy horrors of this recess have procured it the terrific appel- lation of Vallone del Inferno, or Valley of Hell. At the farthest extremity, a copious stream, or more properly a river, of the most transparent water, rushes from a cavern, under a lofty moun- tain ; and, pursuing its course through the vale, gives motion to several paper, fulling, and copper mills, in its way to Piedimonte. This stream is supposed to derive its origin from a lake in the mountains, called Lago di Matese ; and to pene- trate, through some subterraneous passage, to the cavity from which it emerges. I noticed here the remains of some old aqueducts, which pro- bably once conveyed water to the town of Alife. The Vallone del Inferno will rank high in the estimation of the artist, and not undeservedly ; for I never saw more beauty, more variety, and more novelty, concentrated within a small compass. The inclemency of the weather put a final stop 344 CLASSICAL TOUR to our farther progress, which was meant to be extended to the town of Alife, where, according to the information I had procured, several vestiges of antiquity were yet to be traced. Neither could we visit the summit of Miletto, or penetrate to Telese. We therefore availed ourselves of the first fine day; and on Friday the 14th, escaping from our confinement, returned through Caserta to Naples. THROUGH ITALY. 245 JOURNEY FROM NAPLES TO ROME ON THE VIA LATINA. The beaten track between Rome and Naples being now so well known to me, I was desirous, in my return to Rome to vary the route. The country traversed by the Via Latina, in its course to Capua, was described to me as furnishing objects, no less of instruction than of amusement, both to the antiquary and the artist; and I therefore deemed it worthy of examination. Wood, rock, and water may, indeed, supply materials for a beautiful landscape ; but I have always considered buildings as a pleasing, if not a necessary append- age to natural scenery; and such structures possess a double interest, if they have been distinguished by the residence of illustrious characters, or recal to our recollection the events of past times. In all my excursions I have endeavoured to select some route which, besides its natural beauties, was calculated to awaken new ideas, or to revive 246 CLASSICAL TOUR the memory of those who had ministered delight to the mind. In this respect my late excursions have been highly gratifying : for who can travel with Horace over the Via Appia without enthu- siasm ? or who can perambulate Sicily without retracing in fancy’s eye the days of Tirnoleon, Archimedes, and Marcellus ? On my return from Sicily in the autumn of 1790, I determined to follow the course of the Via Latina to Rome. I quitted Naples on the 28th of October ; and having paid another visit to the royal palace and demesne at Caserta, I pro- ceeded through Capua to Calvi, the Colts of the itineraries. Here I stopped, in order to examine the ancient monuments, which I found more nu- merous than I expected. The modern city, though the see of a bishop, is reduced to a very few houses, the Vescovado, Seminario, Osteria, &c. &c. Its present depopulation is probably owing to the un- healthy state of the atmosphere during the sum- mer months. The face of the surrounding country is wild, but it abounds with fine oak trees. J descended from my carriage at the Seminario, and followed a road nearly opposite, which led to the first ruins of the ancient city. These consist of a considerable pile of masonry, of the kind called o]ms rttkulatumy overhanging the road irn- THROUGH ITALY. 247 mediately on the right. The next building was in the same mode of workmanship, and from its semicircular form appears to have been a theatre. Crossing the road, I found another considerable structure to the left, ornamented with stucco, pillars, &c. and divided into two apartments. Near it, and over the road, is an arch, almost fallen ; and in the opposite direction, towards Calvi, I observed several vaults and subterraneous buildings stretching to a considerable extent. In a bottom beneath, a fine spring of water issues from the rock, which is called the Fontana. Above is a marble tablet, ornamented with arabesque, and a head, which appears to be that of Medusa, in the centre. In the same rock are traces of channels, which probably formed parts of aqueducts. A road leads along this bottom, through a very narrow and deep passage between two hills. On each side are fragments of antique buildings, which seem to have been placed in a singular situation, unless the hills had been separated by some con- vulsion. Following the course of the river, I came to a modern bridge, near which is a large mass of opus reticulatum ; and passing under it, as- cended to a grotto, excavated in a rock of tufa. According to the information of my guide, this cavern extended almost two miles under gronnd, and opened near Le Torricelk. He shewed me the remains of an inscription found within, which 248 CLASSICAL TOUR I copied but could not decypher. Returning to- wards Calvi, I noticed many antique fragments of stone inserted in the modern walls of the Vesco- vado and church. In the front of the latter is a bad basso relievo ; and many broken and entire columns of red and grey granite, with capitals, &c. are scattered on the ground. An antique stone has been cut up to form part of a door way in the Seminario, bearing this mutilated inscription : OMNIA PECVNIA O .TEMPLVM. On the same spot are some broken columns, a» arabesque, &c. &c. On the opposite side of the road, and facing the casj;le, are the ruins of an amphitheatre, over- shadowed by aged oaks ; but little can be now discerned, except the form of the arena. This ancient city was built upon level ground, but was considerably strengthened by a natural fosse or ravine, which nearly surrounded it. I observed evident traces of the Via Latina at this place, and particularly on the road between Calvi and the osteria of Torricella, which stands on the foundation of the old causeway THROUGH ITALY. 349 From hence the road turns off to the left to- wards Teano, and the whole interval exhibits ma- nifest traces of the Roman way. I passed close to an antique building on the left, which has been converted into a church ; and observed many ruins scattered over the adjoining fields on each side of the road. By the kind recommendation of a friend, I obtained a lodging in the Convent of the Padri Riformati ; which is pleasantly situated on an eminence, about a mile from the town of Teano. Friday, October 29 j I descended to the town in search of the inscriptions which have been men- tioned by different authors ; and of which I shall here insert those which appeared to ihe the most interesting. The following was the first which occurred. It was placed crossways in the inside wall of the steeple belonging to the cathedral. No. !"■. S. BALNEVM CLODIANVM EMPTVM CVM SVIS AEBIFICIIS * I was informed that at a place called Bagno Nuovo, not far from the iron mills at Teano, there are the remains ^50 CLASSICAL TOUR EX PECVNIA AVGVSTAL.HS. 133300133. Q.MINVOI HILARI. O.AVRILLI SVAVIS. O.ALSOIDI NEPOTIS. M.HERENNI OPTATI. M.OAEDI OHILONIS. M . OVINI FAVSTI. In another part of the steeple I observed two other inscribed stones. The first. No. 2. L MARIO . L . F . HERENNIA AFRIOANO m . PAPHIE. is placed upon the frieze, under a pediment, sup- ported by two columns, between which are two figures, male and female. Close to it is No. 3. D . M . S . OATVLINAE . REST TAE . OO- NIVGI . INOOMPARABILI . QVAE MEOVM. VIXIT ANNIS.XXIIII FeLTX .... B.M. of some ancient buildings, to which this inscription may, perhaps, have belonged. THROUGH ITALY. 251 Before the church door lie two Sphynxes, of red granite ; within is a marble sarcophagus, with its cover, and basso relievos, badly executed ; and both without and within are many antique columns. On entering the church I observed on a stone forming part of the wall, the following in- scription, which Pratilli conceives was set up by the Teanenses in honour of the Emperor Adrian, for having restored the Via Latina towards Sessa. No. 4. IMP . CAESARI DIVI . TRAIANI PARTHICI . F . DIVI NERVAE . NEPOTI TRAIANO . HADRIANO AVGVSTO. PONTIFICI . MAXIMO. T RIB . POTEST . Xm COS TTl P. P. OPTIMO MAXIMOQVE ' PRINCIPI. TEANENSES D. D. In the court-yard of the episcopal palace I found the following inscription, placed in CLASSICAL TOUR a wall on the right. The badness of the characters shews a declining period in the art of sculpture. No. 5. FLAVIO VALERIO CONSTANTIO NO- BILISSIMO CAESARI. RESP . TEANENSIVM DEDICANTIBVS . POMPEIO . FAVSTINO . V . C . CORR . CAMPANIAE . ET QVINTO . GAL- LICANO . V . CC . VI NVMINI MAIESTATIQ . EORVM DICATISSIMIS. In a wall, opposite the convent of the Padri Conventuali, I found these two inscriptions. No. 6 . HELVIA . L . F . GALLA IVNONI . SACRVM. No. 7. D . M . S . SEX CLODIO ADIVTORI. Near the monastery of Sta. Maria de Foris, I observed a stone, which has been used as a step to ascend the hill, bearing this inscription : THROUGH ITALY. 253 No. 8. C . CABILENVS . C . F . FAL. GALLVS . LEG . VIII . MVTINENSIS. ' In the walls of the church of the Annunciata I saw No. 9. M . PACTVMEIO . M . F. FAVTIO . m . VIR . IVR . D. DO MAIOR HOxNOR R. COLL. And in the walls of the church of Sta. Maria Nnova, without the town, I found No. 10. L. BRVTTIO FESTO. And No. II. C . N . VESICVLANVS. Near the house of D. F. del Quattro is a stone inscribed to a priestess of the goddess Ceres. No. 12. STAIAE . M . F . PIET ATI SACERD . CERER. 254 CLASSICAL TOUR In a wall opposite is the following sepulchral inscription : — No. 13. D . M . S . VALERIAE EPICTESIDI VIX . ANN . XXV. DIED . XXIX VALERIA SE- CVNDILLA . MATER FI * Many other inscriptions are mentioned by Pratilli as existing at Teano, when he collected materials for his work on the Via Appia. From these it appears that the ancient city contained a temple dedicated to Ceres, and another to Hercules Victor. That relating to the priestess of Ceres has been already given : the other, which recorded the erection of a temple to Hercules Victor, by the Teanenses was dug up in the presence of Pratilli, in the year 1720. Teano was formerly called Teanum Sidicinum, to distinguish it from Teanum Appulum. It is mentioned h)r the classic writers as a city of im- * This last line was unintelligible to me. It is thus given by Pratilli, who probably saw it in a more perfeet state : FI LI A E . DVLCISS . F. THROUGH ITALY. 255 portance, and the most considerable on the Via Latina. “ Ipsa quoque urbium, in Vi^ Latin^ si- tarum, maxima.” And according to Strabo, “ No- bile atque illustre/’ After the defeat of the Aurunci, whose sation was at a place called Rocca Monfina, not far from Teano, this city rapidly in- creased in power ; and some idea may yet he formed of its original grandeur by the numerous relics which are scattered over the fields and vine- yards. The site of the ancient town appears, how- ever, to have been lower, and much nearer to Tor- ricella, than the present. The most remarkable ruins are those which hear the names of the Amphitheatre and Circus j though, in my opinion, the former was a theatre, and the latter an amphitheatre. The interior of the first is now dedicated to the Madonna della Grotitty to whom a small chapel is consecrated. Considerable subterraneous vaults still remain, which, according to the vulgar opinion, extended to some distance. My reason for supposing this structure to have been a theatre is, that I could trace among its ruins foundations of a semicircular rather than an oval form. The name of Cerchio, which is now annexed to the other building, has probably given rise to the appellation of circus ; which, however, is totally inapplicable to these ruins, for the form of an ancient circus was entirely 256 CLASSICAL T0UR different. Whereas, the word Cerchio, which literally means a circle, may be considered as indi- cating the usual shape of an amphitheatre. In fact, I traced amidst its ruins two thirds or more of its oval circumference ; and the dimensions of the building evidently did not exceed those of an am- phitheatre. The Via Latina passed immediately under it. The remains of other buildings are scattered in various directions ; but indicate no distinct place. At a place called La Trinity, in a field behind the amphitheatre, I found a Mosaic pavement, com- posed of black and white tesstra,. On the right of a little hermitage, called St. Lazaro, near the side of the road, are some large fragments and grottos of antique structure. Pursuing the road which leads to Torricella, I noticed, at the distance of a mile from Teano, the ruins of a considerable edifice, immediately ad- joining the Roman way. It now bears the name of Sta. Croce, and is used as a chapel. As it lay without the walls of the ancient city, it may have been a sepulchral monument, or perhaps the temple of Fortune, thus commemorated by Strabo. “ Hae quoque Campanae sunt urbes. Gales atqueTeanum, quas distinguunt duae Fortunae, quarum Templa ab utroque Viae Latinae latere sunt locata.” THROUGH ITALY. 257 The general opinion is, that Teanum became a Roman colony under the government of Augus- tus ; though some writers imagine that it was co- lonized as early as the time of Appius Claudius. Some pipes discovered near the Cerchio bore the inscription COL . CL . FR . TEA. and another, corresponding with them, was found, with the words COLONIA . CLAVDIA . FRUMENTARIA . , AVGVSTA. Another broken inscription, which I saw in the garden of Don. F. del Quattro, proves that this colony was distinguished by the title of Claudia. IMP . CAESAR . D . F . AVG. PONT . MAX . TRIB . POT . XX . COS . XIII. DESIGN . PATRI . PATRIAE. COL . CL . FIRMA . TEANVM . SIDICINVM. Numerous are the remains of ancient paved ways forming communications with Teanum, of which the Via Latina was the principal. This road, which diverged from the Via Appia at VOL. V. s 258 CLASSICAL TOUR Capua, traversed Caks, now Calvi, and entered Teano by the Porta di sotto, or della Rum. It quitted the place by the Porta di sopra, or di MarzOf probably a corruption of Marte, and pro- ceeded in the direction of Monte Casino. A branch diverged to Suessa Aurunca, now Sessa; and I myself saw a very perfect portion of it under the Convent of St. Antonio, where it takes a south-westerly direction. The three ancient ways converged at the little chapel called La Madonna del Trvoio, and entered the city immediately opposite the Cerchio^ close to the church of St. Antonio Abate. Another branch, which led to the Ancient Aurunca, the capital of the Aurunci, now Rocea Monfina, is visible near the Capuchin Convent, called Sta. Reparata, and from thence proceeded to Le Cianchetelle. Part of another Roman way appears near Riardo, which I sup- pose to have led to Allifi, and afterwards to Bene- ventuin. A branch also extended towards the sea coast to join the Via Appia, In short, the environs of Teano abound with every species of antiquities. Inscriptions, medals, cameos, intaglios, and vases are continually* discovered, all tending to prove the former wealth and magnificence of Teanum Sidicinum. During my residence at Teano, I had the good fortune to become acquainted with the Canonico TFIROUGH ITALY. 259 Don Angelo Lanfredi,a most intelligent and com- municative man, from whom I gained much infor- mation respecting this ancient colony. Knowing my zeal for such researches, he sent me, after my departure, the result of some new discoveries, made on a farm near the banks of the river. The letter was written in Latin, and is thus endited : — “ Teani Sidicini quo Viae Latinae religens ves- tigia, fere duos ante annos divertisti, te non ar- bitror oblitum. Ego quidem non oblitus sum tui, neque quod tibi fui pollicitus, me daturum litteras ad te siquid veterum inscriptionum this structure many of the granite columns dispersed about the present church and cloister may probably have belonged. The only fragment of antiquity, which I could perceive on this mountain, was a portion of wall, consisting of massive stones without cement. The monastery'}' is a spacious but irregular * Castrum quod Casinum dicitur, in excelso montis la- tere situm est, qui videlicet mons distenso sinu hoc idem castrum recipit, sed per tria millia in altum se subrigens, velut ad aSra, cacumen tendit, ubi vetustissimum fanum fuit, in quo ex antiquorum more gentilium, k stultorum rustico- rum populo Apollo colebatur. Illic vir Dei S. Benedictus proveniens contusit Idolura, subvertit aram, atque in ipso templo Apollinis oraculum Beati Martini, ubi verb ara ejusdem Apollinis fuit, oraculum St. Johannis construxit. — Gregorius Magnus Dialogorum, lib, ii. c. 8. f The foundation of this celebrated monastery is at- tributed to St, Benedict j and its history is minutely recorded in a work printed at Venice 1733, in 4 vols, folio, and en- titled, ‘‘ Historia Abbatiae Cassinensis, studio D. Erasmi Gattula, It is illustrated by numerous plans and engravings, on one of which (the interior view of the church) is the fol- lowing record ; that St. Benedict, having overthrown the altar of the heathens, dedicated a church to God, in the year 529; which was afterwards destroyed by the Lombards, THROUGH ITALY. building, the exterior of which is by no means pre- possessing, on which account the first view of the cloisters and staircase is rendered more striking. One of these cloisters is decorated with colossal statues, in marble, of kings, princes, and popes ; but a single nich is yet vacant, for the first per- sonage whom the monks may judge worthy of so exalted a post.. The church is of a middling size ; though the variety and abundance of marbles, with which it is encrusted, give it a rich appearance. The pavement, also, is inlaid with marble. The ceiling is painted by Luca Giordano, and is not without merit. Over the front door is a large picture, by the same artist, and in the church several by Solimene and others. In the choir and sa- cristy are some good specimens of carving in wood. The church contains the sepulchre of Cosmo de Medici, who was drowned in crossing the Garig- who laid waste Italy j and restored by Petronates, an abbot. It was afterwards burnt by the Saracens ; and repaired by Johannes, the abbot; and rebuilt in a better manner by Desiderius. In the year 748, it was consecrated by Zacha— rias; and again by Alexander II. in the year 1071. It was once more totally destroyed by an earthquake in the year 1349, and restored by order of Pope Urban V. By the negligence of some workmen in removing some timbers, it fell down in the year 1649; and, when restored to a greater degree of splendour than it had hitherto enjoyed, was conse- crated for a third time, 19th May, in the year 17'27, by Pope Benedict XIII. VOL. V. T 274 CLASSICAL TOUR liano. On one of the doors all the possessions, funds, &c. belonging to the monastery, are en- graven in square compartments with letters of silver ; a work which was performed at Constan- tinople. In the refectory is a picture of large proportions, by Bassan, in which the history of St. Benedict is introduced, and his retirement at Subiaco, as well as at Monte Casino, represented. The more ancient part of the convent contains an extensive collection of pictures, more praised and esteemed by the fraternity than they deserve, particularly one which is honoured with the name of Raphael. Here also are preserved several inscriptions, which were found at S. Germano : the greater portion of them being sepulchral, and possessing no unusual variety of style, are not worthy of record. The following, however, may deserve our notice : — No. 1 No. 2 IMP . CAESAR L . SEPTIMIO . SE VERO . PIO . PER TINACI . AVG. ARAB . ADIAB . PART. MAX . PONT . MAX. TRIB . POT . VIII . IMP. XI . COS . BIS . P . P. COLLEGIVM AENEATOR. IMP . CAESARI . DIVI . F. AVGVSTO COS . XI . IMP . VII. TRIBVNIC . POTESI’A. F . RVBRIVS M . E. M. F . MAELARBA. THROUGH ITALY, 275 No. 4. M . RVBRIO PROCVLO AVG . CASINI CVR . ANN . CASNI M . RVBRIVS . PROCV LET AN VS . PATRl , PUS SIMO . ET . SERGIA QVARTILLA VXOR. No. 5. RIO PONTIFICl. AD CORRjgenduM . STATVM ITALIAE. DE LEGAT PRINCTPVM IN PROVINCIA INFERIOR . S . LEG . AVG . PR . PR . PROVINCIAE RIS GERMani CAE . EXPEDITIONIS . LEGATO IVRIDICO PEr EMILIAIW . LIGVRIAM . CVRATO. A/RICAE . REGION . HIPPONIENSIS . PRAETORI ROTVRMARum EQVESTRIVM ........ AMANTISSIMO. The greater part of the mountain on which the monastery is situated exhibits a barren aspect, and produces only wild grass with dwarf shrubs, but near the summit it is enlivened with a few forest trees. Having frequently heard this establishment highly extolled, I confess the view of it disap- pointed me; for it is not to be compared either with that of St. Martino, near Palermo, or that at Catania. In the eye of a foreigner, its principal No. 3. P . CAPRILIO CASINETI . LIB, ET ALVMNO CASINETO. VIX . AN . m. M . II. DIES XVITI. CLASSICAL TOUR ^276 interest arises from the loftiness of the situation, and the extensive prospect which it commands. Not far distant from St. Germano was the villa of M. Varro, situated between two rivers. Cicero thus describes it, and the character of the proprietor, in his second Philippic. “ Ab hdc perturbatione religionum advolas in M. Varronis sanctissimi atque integerrimi viri, fun- dum Casinatem” And a little after, “ Et quam multos dies in ea vill^ turpissim^ es perbacchatus ! Ab hoi4 terti4 bibebatur, ludebatur, vomebatur. 0 tecta ipsa misera, quam dispari domino ! Quam- quam, quomodo iste dominus ! Sed tamen, quam 1 dispari tenebantur? Studiorum enim siiorum M. Varro voluit esse illud ; non libidinum diverso- rium. Quae in ilia villd ante dicebantur? quae cogita- bantur? quae literis mandabantur? Jura populi Romani, monumenta majorum, omnis sapientiae ratio, omnisque doctrina.” Varro himself thus alludes to his own villa: — “ Cui ego quum habeam sub oppido Casino, flumen quod per villam fluat, liquidum et altura, marginibus lapideis, latum pedes 57, et e vill5 in villam pohtibus transeatur, longum pedes ioccccl directum ab iiisuli in Museum, quae est ab Vinio THROUGH ITALY. 277 fluvio, ubi confluit altera amnis, ad summum flu- men, ubi est Museum.” — De Re Rustica, lib. iii. c. 5. Some trifling remains indicate the site of this villa, the memory of which will shortly survive only in the page of the historian. Sunday, November 7. After receiving every mark of attention, friendship, and hospitality, from the confraternity at Monte Casino, and es- pecially from the Abate Capomazzo, and the Padre Rettore, Don Prospero Perilli, I took leave*, and proceeded to Aquino, seven miles from St. Ger- mano. ' At the distance of two miles is a small chapel, called St. Scolastica, where I found this inscription ; — . L . P . HORANIVS ALEXANDER . SIBI . ET . LIBERTIS LIBERTAR. SVIS. A little farther, on the left of the great road, opposite the Fontanelle, I observed the following inscribed stones, besides mutilated fragments of others : — * In quitting this monastery I left some roots of the po- tatoeSj which the monks had never before seen. CLASSICAL TOUR W L . LVCI . L . L . PHILEROTiS, L . LVCI . L . L . VlTELLl . L . LVCI . L . L . EPHAPROD . LVCIAE . L . L . DADAE . LVCIAE . L . L . DAPNENIS . L . LVCI . L . L . CATERVAE . TAMPIAE . 0 . L . AVGE. This inscription is inserted in the walls of a house, belonging to Domenico Nardillo, together with the bust of a child, of uncouth sculpture, both found in an adjoining wood. A little beyond, on the right, I noticed a large stone, hollowed out in an oblong form, and others scattered about, which were cut in the shape of semi-columns, some wrought, and some plain. These I imagine to have been the fragments of a sarcophagus, as a rim appears round the cavity of the large stone, to sustain the lid, or cover. Its dimensions are nine feet by five. Pursuing the road towards Aquino, I saw two large mutilated marble statues, one of which has obtained the appellation of luomo morto, or the dead man. At the distance of a mile from Aquino, and facing the Torre St. di Gregorio, I found a columnar stone, probably a milliary, bearing this inscription : — C . CALVISIVS . C . F SABINVS . COS. IMP. LXXX. THROUGH ITALY. 279 In the Torre di St. Gregorio I saw another, but it was illegible. A friend also told me that in a part of the tower, now locked up, was the follow- ing inscription : — M . LVCIVS . THEODORVS . SIBI . ET . LVCIAE. The road to Aquino leads through a plain, partly cultivated with vines, corn, &c. and then traverses a wood of fine oaks. The first object which attracted my attention, on entering Aquino, was an old and ruinous church, called the Vescovado; which is apparently con- structed on the site of an ancient temple, and, in a great degree, with the stones and ornaments be- longing to it. Many inscriptions appear in the walls, of which the following have escaped the injuries of time. No. 1. LOCA SEPVLTVRE CVLTORVM HERCV- LIS INEVNDO DOMITIANO. IN . FR . P . CXX. IN . AGR . P . LV. M . MANIMIS II. PRISCVS PRISCIANVS DONAVERVNT. No. 2. L . COMINIVS SIBI . ET . L . COMIN- ET • CAESIAE. 280 CLASSICAL TOUR Within the buildings are some old sarcophagi. One bears eight or nine figures in front, is sup- ported beneath by two heads, and ornamented, on each side, with a bust ; but the whole is so much defaced, that the subject is inexplicable. On the outside, over the principal door, is an old mosaic, representing the Madonna; and the colours are surprisingly fresh, though constantly exposed to the air. The steeple appears to be the earliest part of this edifice, and may, perhaps, have formed a portion of the original structure. Some frag- ments of the antique temple were found near the back front of the church ; but the stones have long since been removed for the use of modern buildings. Adjoining is a triumphal arch of a mixed style, Corinthian and Ionic; between the arch of which flows a copious stream, which at once supplies a neighbouring mill, and forms a very picturesque object. From the church, where numerous fragments of antiquity are scattered about, and neglected, I descended to the mill just below. Here I ob- served a considerable portion of the Via La- tina in its primitive state ; and close to it, on the left, the remains of an antique building, in brick. Shortly afterwards I reached a chapel, dedi- THROUGH ITALY. 281 cated to the celebrated St. Tommaso*. In the wall of which building the following inscription is inserted ARBITRATV C . BETVTI . M . F . OVF . ET PALFI . P . L . PHILOMVSI. Two other inscribed stones lay on the ground near it ; one with the face downwards, the other illegible. From hence the road leads through an ancient archway, to the left of which is a large portion of the city wall remaining, formed of large Stones, placed upon each other without cement. My search after the Via Latina was still guided by the scattered stones of the pavement, which led me to the vestiges of a theatre, built with the opus reticu- latum. Adjoining is an old building, constructed with maissive stones, to which are attached the ruins of a semicircular tower, or large recessed niche. In the walls of a masseria, belonging to * Authors have differed respecting the birth-place of this saint. Some have asserted that his surname was derived, not from this place Aquino, but from his family appellation, Aquino, in Calabria. — See Gah, Barrius de Calabrid, page 286; and Pratilli de Via Appid, page 413. CLASSICAL TOUR ^82 Angelo Bonanno, near Capo d’Aqua, is an in- scription, now illegible. Farther on, towards the Torre di St. Gregorio, is an antique edifice of in- different opus reticulatum ; and between that and the Torre itself, I saw another inscribed stone lying by the road side, but too much mutilated to be legible. In an open field, beyond the theatre, a lofty wall attracted my attention ; and, on in- spection, proved to be the ruin of a magnificent Doric temple. Many of the fluted columns lie prostrate, and dispersed around. A large portion of the frieze, with triglyphs, and a part of the cornice, still exist; as also the fragment of a fluted pilaster, with a base of the corresponding pilaster. The whole is composed of square stones, united without cement. Contrary to the usual custom, the entrance to this temple seems to have faced the south. From a hasty measurement its dimensions appear to have been 190 feet in length, and above 60 in breadth. The diameter of the columns was about four feet. In the middle of a vineyard, to the left of the road, facing the theatre, are the vestiges of an amphitheatre, the vaults of which form the foundation of a villa attached to it. Little now remains, except the general outline, a few of the mmitoria, and some portion of the re- ticulated walls. Other antique ruins are dispersed about the vicinity, but nothing worthy of particular remark. Speaking of this ancient city, Strabo THROUGH ITALY. ^S3 observes, “ Aquinum urbs est magna, quam mag- nus praeterfluit amiiis Melphis.” By Cicero it is called “ frequens municipium and by Silius Ita- licus it is thus commemorated : — atqueviris ingens exhaurit Aquinum. Though now reduced to the scanty population of scarcely a thousand souls, the numerous relics of former splendour, which have survived the wreck of time, and the pillage of barbarians, render it highly interesting in the eyes of the an- tiquary. These ruins serve to indicate the great extent of this celebrated city ; and the different ages of the various buildings may still, I think, be traced by a discerning eye. I was informed that a nephew of the Canonico Bianchi had col- lected memorials of all the inscriptions in this neighbourhood ; but his absence from Aquino de- prived me of the gratification I should have expe- rienced in seeing and copying them. The air of Aquino is very unwholesome ; and the twotrna scarcely fit for the reception of beasts. A letter, however, from the Abate di Monte Casino procured me an excellent lodging at the Monacato of Palazzuola, a village three miles from Aquino, situated in a salubrious spot under the mountains. The principal galant' iiomo of Aquino 284 CLASSICAL TOUR very politely offered me his house, and was mor- tilled that I should seek a lodging so remote from the ' objects of my curiosity. Such mai'ks of hospitality are by no means uncommon in this country, particularly in those provinces and districts which are little frequented by tra- vellers. Tuesday, November 9* Leaving Aquino, I traversed a wild and woody country to the banks of the river Melfa, the Mdfesfiwoius mentioned in the itineraries at three miles distant from Aquino. This river pursues a devious course through a wide bed, which its torrents have formed. In my way I observed by the road side a stone, inscribed with small characters, but unintelligible. The neighbourhood of this river is said to have given birth to the poet Juvenal. Having crossed the Melfa, I found the country less wild and more open, and better cultivated with corn, vines, &c. I observed no trace of the Via Latina fill I reached the other town of St. Giovanni in carico, where I crossed a bridge of antique workmanship. The following inscription, found near the spot, and said to be still in the possession of the Casa Tranzidi, of that town, most probably commemorates its reparation by the Emperor Trajan : — THROUGH ITALY. 2S5 IMP . CAESAR . DIVI . NERVAE . FIL . NERVA . TRAIANVS . AVG . GERMANICVS . DACICVS . PONTIFEX . MAXIMVS . TRIE . POTEST . rrn . IMPERATOR . fin . COS .V . P . P . RESTITVIT. After travelling three miles farther, I came to the Is9letta, situated in an angle, between the river Liris and another stream which comes from Valmontone. At this spot antiquaries have placed the Fabrateria of the itineraries ; and a neigh- bouring village still retains the name of Falvaterra. The station on the Latin Way could not, however^ have been there, but more in the plain, near the Isoletta ; though its exact site, I believe, has never been ascertained. It is frequently mentioned by the classic authors. Si potes avelli Circensibus, optima Sorse, Aut Fabrateriae domus, aut Frusinone paratur. Juvenal. Strabo enumerates it among the different towns on the Via Latina, “ Post hinc in ipsd Via Latin^, oppida sunt nobilia, atque urbes Ferentinum, Frusino, proe- fluente CosA amne, et Fabrateria, quam Trerus praeterlabitur.” It was made a Roman colony CLASSICAL TOUR 'i86 under the consulate of Longinus and Sextus Cal- vinus, in the year 124 before Christ. From hence I continued my journey to Ce- prano, a small but populous city, belonging to the Pope; having passed the boundary of the Papal and Neapolitan territories on this side of Isoletta. Ceprano is supposed to occupy the site of the an- cient Fregellae., mentioned as a station on the Via Latina ; but I could find no inscription, or other monument of antiquity, to attest its origin. On a handsome bridge, over the river Liris, are the follovring inscriptions. The first is a copy, in modern characters, of one which formerly existed near the spot, commemorating the reparation of this bridge by the Emperor Antoninus Pius. No. 1. IMP . CAESAR DIVI . HADRIA NI FI- LIVS . DIVI TRAIANI PARTHICI . NEPOS . DIVI . NERVAE . PR . N T . AELIVS . HADRI- ANVS. ANTONINVS AVGVSTVS PIVS. PON- TIFEX . MAXIMVS TRIBVNIC . POTEST . rrn. cos. ml . p . p . opvs . pontis ve- TVSTATE . CONLABS. RESTITVIT. The second and third commemorate repairs of the roads and bridges in the years 1620 and 1777. THROUGH ITALY. 287 " No. 2. Pavli . V . Pont, Opt. Maximus. Conies honoratus Vicecomes Mediolanen j Campaniae maritimeeque provinciis prsefectus, Viain Ciprano, ad urbem> excisis sylvis, aperuit, extructis pontibus, conjunxit, ex- aequatis vallibus ac tumulis, direxit, Anno Dom. mdcxx. No. 3. Pivs VI. P. M. Fregellanorum, pontem super Lirim, a pluribus Romanis Imperatoribus, summisque Pontificlbus instauratum, ilerum aquarum impetu disjectura, restituit, alveum direxit, additoque aggere munivit. An. Sal. MDCCLXXVii Curante Valen. Mastrotio, &c. FregdlcB was made a Roman colony in the year of Rome 426, and 327 years before Christ, under the consulate of P. Plautius Proculus and P. Cornelius Scapula. According to Strabo, it was afterwards demolished by the Romans them- selves. “ Fregellae nunc quidem vicus, et olim urbs Celebris, et plerarumque ante^ caput, excisa est ah Romanis, quum defecisset.” This induced another classic writer to ex- claim, “ O perfidiosae Fregellae ! qnam facile scelere vestro contabuistis ! at cujus nitor nrbis Italiam 288 CLASSICAL TOUR nuper "illustravit, ejus nunc vix fundamentomm reliquiae inaneant ! ” My next stage on the Via Latina was Frusi- none, the Frusinum of the itineraries; from whence I made a digression to Isola, Sora, and the Convents of Casamare and Trisulto. THROUGH ITALY. 389 EXCURSION TO ISOLA AND SORA, AND TO THE CONVENTS OF CASAMARE AND TRISULTO. Thursday, November II, 1790. I dismissed my carriage, which I had brought with great diffi- culty from Naples to Frusinone, and hired mules to convey myself, servants, and baggage. After traversing seven or eight miles of uninteresting country, I reached Casamare, which consists only of a convent, and osteria adjoining. The monks who dwell here observe the rigid rule of La Trappe ; and this is one of the very few establish- ments now remaining of that order. Curiosity was the principal motive which in- duced me to take my present direction. Dreary, indeed, is this abode, occupied by men condemned to perpetual silence, devoted to fasting and prayer, cut off from the society of parents and friends, dead to all the joys and comforts of life, and con- VOL. V. u 290 CLASSICAL TOUR signed to cheerless labour and unceasing mortifi- cation. Such a retreat seems fit only for those wretched beings who, in the language of Shakes- peare, have within them unclivulged crimes, Unwhipp’tl of justice j” not for those, who, animated by a true but fervid devotion, wish to retire from the cares and temp- tations of life, and the noise and bustle of the world, that they may the better prepare them- selves for an hereafter: for surely the Almighty never intended that religion should be the parent of such unnatural privations, or assume so stern and repulsive an aspect. On entering these cloistered walls I felt an in- voluntary sensation of awe. All was still and solemn. I inquired for the Padre Abate, and signified my desire to see him. The porter nod- ded assent; and after a considerable interval of suspense, the superior appeared, and with the ut- most civility conducted me through the monastery. I went first to the church, which is old, and pre- senting in its architecture a mixture of the Nor- man and Gothic styles ; then to the capitolo, the library, refectory, and other apartments ; all of which exhibit peculiar neatness and cleanliness. THROUGH ITALY. 291 Round the convent is an enclosed portion of ground, where the monks labour three hours every day, partly in the morning, and partly in the evening. At Seven o’clock they retire to rest, and rise again at two in the morning ; from which time they spend several hours successively in the offices of religion. Their diet is much more simple than that of any other religious order, con- sisting only of eggs, herbs, pastry, and fruits ; and their silence is perpetual. Such, indeed, is the austerity of their rule, that with them life can merely be termed existence. Sic sine vit&. Vivere quam triste est, sic sine morte mori. Among many sentences, expressive of their religious duties and maxims, which are inscribed on various parts of the building, I observed the following, near the refectory : — Jejunium amarej corpus castigarej delicias non amplecti. On all the gates of the enclosed garden is an anathema, denounced against females who may enter this hallowed precinct: — Scomtnunica per le donne, che entreranno nella pastoreccia. The Superior, besides shewing me every pos- 29‘2 CLASSICAL TOUR sible attention, pressed me to take up my lodging for the night within the convent. As an additional temptation, he apprised me, that at two in the morning he would awake, and summons me to the choir. I felt so little of the spirit which distin- guishes the Order, that I hegged leave to decline the invitation. The situation of this establishment is devoid of every charm ; for it is exposed to a scorching sun, surrounded by a country moderately hilly, and destitute of wood. Near the convent is a bridge, bearing marks of antiquity, and surmounted by an aqueduct. It is supposed that the celebrated Caius Marius bad a villa near this spot ; and that the modern name of tlje place is derived from him. A branch of the Fia Latin(^ may also have led through this place to Sora, &c. After dinner, I continued my ride to Isola, which is about five miles distant from Casainare; and in my way passed two frontier custom-houses, belonging to the Pope and the King of Naples, with- out being incommoded at either. I had another agreeable proof of Italian hospitality at Isola ; for, without any recommendatory introduction, I was received with the utmost civility by Don Agostino Galanti, agent to the Duke of Sora. THROUGH ITALY. 293 Friday, November 12. On this favoured spot nature has lavished her picturesque embellish- raents ; and the historical interest attached to it at the same time strongly excited my energy and curiosity. At break of day I left my castellated abode to visit the site of Cicero’s villa. Having followed the course of the river Liris for above a mile, I crossed it by a ferry. Here I observed the re- mains of a Roman bridge, which, from its direc- tion, appears to have been situated on the road to Castelluccio, and probably communicated with the bridge before mentioned, at Casamare, and afterwards with the Latin way. From hence I came to the deserted church of St. Domenico ; which is evidently built on the ruins of the man- sion, once honoured by the residence of the great orator. This is obvious from the numerous frag- ments of basso relievos, friezes, &e. scattered on the spot, which awaken regret for the cause that occasioned the dilapidation of so celebrated a dwelling. In and near the church are a few mu- tilated inscriptions, and a bust, said to represent Cicero. The villa was situated behind the church, on an island, formed by the division of the river Fibre- nus into two branches, near its confluence with 294 CLASSICAL TOUR the Liris. It was open in front towards the Liris, and on each flank washed by the Fibrenus ; which, on mingling its current with that of the Liris, loses its original name. When, after the lapse of so many centuries, we are enabled to identify remarkable situa- tions, and trace the scene of historical events, we enjoy a peculiar gratification. Our attention is roused, our recollection quickened, our feelings deeply interested. We recal to memory times, facts, and circumstances, with unwonted distinct- ness : we live in imagination with heroes and phi- losophers, whose fame has rescued them from the ordinary fate of mortality Here dwelt a Cicero ; and on the banks of this transparent stream an Atticus and a Marcus conversed. Who, when standing on this identical spot, can peruse without enthusiasm the following dialogue? * Natura ne nobis hoc inquit datum dicam, an errore quodam, ut cum ea loca videamus, in quibus raemoria dig- nos viros accesserimus multos esse versatos, magis move- amur, quam siquando eorum ipsorum aut facta audiamus, aut scriptum aliquod legamus. — Cicero de Finibus, 5. “ Whether it be from nature, or some weakness in us, it is certain that we are much more affected with the sight of those places where great and famous men have spent most part of their lives, than either to hear of their actions, or read their works.” — Middleton's Letters, S^c. p. 129, THROUGEI. ITALY. 295 Atticus. Sed visne, quoniam et satis jam de- ambulatum est, et tibi aliud dicendi initium siimen- dnm est : locum mutemus, et in insula quae est in Fibrenoj sermoni reliquo demus operam se- dentes ? “ Marcus. Sane quidem, narn illo loco liben- tissim^ soleo uti: sive quid mecum ipse cogito, sive aliquid scribo, aut lego. Ego verb, quum licet plures dies abesse, et amenitatem et salnbri- tatem haiic sequor : sed nimirum me alia quoque causa dilectat, quae te non attingit ita. ^ Atticus. Quae tandem ista causa est ? “Marcus. Quia si verum diciinus, haec est mea, et hujiis patris mei germana patria: hue enim orti stirpe antiquissima sumus ; hue sacra, hue genus ; hue majorum multa vestigia : quid plura? Hanc vides villam, ut nunc quidem est, lautius aedificatam patris nostri studio, qui quum esset in firma valetudine, heic ferb aetatem egit in literis. Sed hoc ipso in loco, quum avus viveret, et anti- quo more, parva est villa, ut ilia Curiana in Sabi- nis, me scito esse natum et postea. “Atticus. Sed ventum in insulam est, hac verb nihil est amaenius, ut enim hoc quasi rostro funditur Fibrenus, et divisus aequaliter in duas 296 CLASSICAL TOUR partes ; latera haec adluit, rapideque dilapsus cito in unum confluit, et tantum complectitur quod satis modicae palestrsB loci, quo effecto, tanqnani id habuerit, muneris ac operis, ut banc nostram efficeret sedera ad disputandum, statim se praeci- pitat in Lyrim, et quasi in familiam patritiam ve- nerit, arnittit noraen obscurius, Lyrimque inulto gelidiorem facit; nec enirn aliud boc frigidius flu- men attigi, quum ad inulta adcesserim ut vix pede tentare id possiin.” Tbis description, given by Atticus of bis friend’s villa, is so accurate, that it needs no com- ment ; and, indeed, completely refutes those au- thors who have placed it at Arpino. Doubtless his parental and family estate was situated there, as he himself says, “Mens paternus avitusque fundus Arpinas. But we also learn from his own words that he was born in the district of Sora, “ in hoc loco me scito esse natum though, from the birth-place of his parents, he took the surname of Arpinus. At a later period the poet Silius Italicus became proprietor of this villa; which is thus commemorated by Martial : — Silius haec iiiagni celebrat monuraeiita Maronis, Jugera facuudi qui Ciceronis habet. Hceredeni doininumque sui tuinulique larisque. Non aliuin mallet nec Maro, nec Cicero. THROUGH ITALY. W7 In another epigram he observes. Jam prope desertos cineres et sancta Maronis Nomina qui coleret, pauper et unus erat. Silius Arpino tandem succurrit agello, Silius et vatem non minor ipse tulit. Speaking of the two rivers the same poet says, qui Fibreno miscentem ilumina Lyrim, Sulfureum tacitisque vadis ad littora lapsum Advolat Arpinas. The neighbouring town of Arpinum gave birth also to another celebrated character, Caius Marius ; of whom we learn from the historian Sallust, “ is natus et omnem pueritiam Arpinis altus.” Vale- rius Maximus says more diffusely, “ ConspicuEe felicitatis Arpinum, sive unicuin literariim glorio- sissimum contemptorem, sive abundantissimum fontem intueri velis.” And again, Ex illo Mario tarn humili Arpini, tam ignobili Romce, tamque fastidiendo candidato,ille Marius evasit,qniAfricam subegit, Jugurtham regem ante cnrrum egit, qui Teutonorum Cimbrorumque exercitus delevit.” Juvenal also alludes to Cicero and Marius as natives of the same province. Sat. viii, — Hie novus Arpinas ignobilis et modo Romae Municipalis eques, galeatum ponit ubujue Praesidium attonitis, et in omni gente laborat. 298 CLASSICAL TOUli And again, of Cains Marius : — Arpitias alius Volscorum in monte solebat I’oscere mercedes alieno lassus aratro ; Nodosain post luec frangebat vertice vitem, Silentus pigiA muniret castra dolabr&. Hie tamen et Cimbros et summa pericula rerum Excipit, et solus trepidantem protegit urbem. The sad reverse of fortune which awaited the heroic native of Arpinum, the conqueror of Africa, of the Cimbri and Teutones ; him who led Ju- gurtha in triumph, and protected the dismayed metropolis ; is thus pathetically described by the. poet Juvenal : — Exilium et career, Minturnarumque paludes, Et mendicatus vict^l Carthagine panis. Strongly as this spot claims the attention of the scholar and antiquary, it is no less interesting to the artist. After the junction of the Fibrenus, the Liris, directing its course southward, forms a succession of beautiful waterfalls. At the very point where the baronial castle of the Duke of Sora is built, it divides itself, like the Fibrenus, into two streams, one of which rushes down a precipitous cataract, the other, majestically rolling over an inclined plane, forms a succession ol cas- cades. A striking peculiarity marks the character THROUGH ITALY. 299 of this fine river. Its waters are dear, and of a beautiful sea green hue ; and, except where it is broken by the irregularity of its rocky bed, it glides along in a smooth and tranquil course, from which it probably derived the epithet of tacitwrnus amnis. The interruptions of its current, are, however, frequent ; and not only give it a pleasing variety of character, but contribute to heighten the scenery which adorns its banks. At one time it may be compared to a deep and transparent lake, and at another it foams and hurries along like the Nar or the prcEceps Anio. During my stay at Isola I visited the ancient city of Sora, situated on a fine plain, and about three miles distant. Its walls are w^ashed by the river Liris, which again divides into two branches. A lofty barren rock, the summit of which is crowned with an old castle, now deserted, and a hermitage beneath, overlooks the city. According to Livy, Sora was formerly in the possession of the Volsci, from whom it was taken by the Sam- nites. Under the consulate of M. Fabrus Druso and Servius Sulpicius Camerinus, in the year of Rome 409, and three hundred and forty-four years before Christ, it became a Roman colony. The same historian also relates, that another colony was transported hither at a later period, namely, in the year of Rome 450, and three hundred and 300 CLASSICAL TOUR three years before Christ. “ In consulatii L. Ge- luicii Aventiiiensisj et Servii Cornelii Leiituli.” It was again made a Roman colony under the Em- peror Augustus. In the market place I copied the following very interesting inscription : — C . FIRMIO . L . F . PRIM . PIL . TR . MIL. nil . VIR . I . D . COLONIA . DE- DUCTA. PRIM . PONTIFICI. LEGIO . IIII . SO- RANA. HONORIS . ET . VIRTVTIS CAVSSA. In the church of St. Restituta are three in- scribed stones, one of which only is intelligible. M . BAEBIO . M . F. ROM . SECVNDO. AED F. . .AEF. . . .ID . II . VIR. .... TO . CVRO . EX . S . C . II . DD. M . BAEBIVS . M . F . ROM . SABINVS. NVMIRIVS . M . F . ROM . SIPIMINVS. NVMIRIVS . M . F . ROM VCVNDINVS. Ill REDETVS IXTASIA M . F. IDDD . CVIVS . DEDIC . CRVSTVM HM VISVM . POPVLO DIVISVM EST. ... The ancient remains of Sora are now reduced to a few inscriptions scattered about the environs. THROUGH ITALY. 201 which are utterly neglected. The bridge over the Lii •is bears marks of antiquity ; and at the farther end I observed a stone, bearing traces of an in- scription, now illegible. At the Vescovado, and in other parts of the city, I saw some large oblong stones, which are said to have formed part of a temple dedicated to Serapis. It was situated on the road leading to Isola, near which I found others of a similar shape. Not far from this gate and bridge, as well as at that of St. Lorenzo, are some traces of the ancient pavement. At the little chapel of St. Rosalia, a mile from Sora, on the road to Isola, I noticed two mutilated inscriptions ; and on my return to Isola, passing under the Castello di Brocco, which is situated on an eminence, I disco- vered the two following inscriptions, inserted irf the walls qf an house belonging to Signor Tron- cone, and adjoining a little church dedicated to La Madonna della Stella. C . C AUDIO . L EPAPHROniTO, CALIDIA . L . C . L. AVGINI. OPPIA . C . L . DIONISIA SIBI . El’ EVENFLIO . T . F . ROM. FIERI . IVSSIT. Continuing my ride five or six miles farther, I reached the little village of Schiavi, where I slept ; and, the following morning, visited the fisheries 302 CLASSICAL TOUR bn the Fibrenus, belonging to the Dukes of Alvito and Sora, which abound with delicious trout. On the 18th of November I returned to Isola, being prevented by bad weather from penetrating to the Lake of Celano. Saturday, November 20. I quitted Isola, ac- companied by my worthy host, Don Agostino Galanti, on a little excursion in a different di- rection. Having again passed by the dreary abode of silence and mortification at Casamare, we reached, after a ride of five hours, another secluded retreat, at Trisulto. I entered this sacred pre- cinct with far different feelings ; for here solitude assumed a cheerful and picturesque aspect. On approaching it the valley narrows, leaving only a steep ascent, flanked on each side by mountains. Between these the landscape is enlivened by various small and well-cultivated plains. The first view of the monastery, at the distance of about two miles, is very striking. It appears to rise amidst the bosom of thick woods, and is overhung by lofty mountains. A letter of recommendation procured us from the Padre Procuratore that welcome hos- pitality, which I had so frequently experienced in similar cloistered establishments. This convent is inhabited by Carthusians. Though their rule enjoins silence, abstinence, and THROUGH ITALY. 303 prayer, and though they are summoned to the service of the choir by the midnight bell, yet the rigour of their profession is so modified, that my introduction to the fraternity awakened none of those sentiments of repugnance and compassion, which attended my admission into the gloomy retreat of La Trappe. The following morning I was employed with my pencil amidst the spacious and solitary groves which surround the monastery, where Nature displays her magic wonders on a grand and impressive scale. In the evening I examined the various apartments of the building itself. Though not very extensive, each particular part exhibits the utmost neatness and propriety. The church abounds with pictures, by the Cava- liere d’Arpino ; and a long gallery is fitted up with prints. The Spezzieria is justly celebrated, and no less frequented, for the variety and excellence of its medicinal preparations. A transparent spring, issuing from the adjoining mountains, near the ruined chapel of St. Domenico, supplies the convent with the purest water, and gives motion to a mill. This stream is supposed to wander through subterraneous channels from the Lake of Celano ; and in its passage is said to have frequently brought fragments of fishing-nets. The pastures are excellent; and furnish milk, butter, and cheese, in great abundance. During the winter season the cattle are sent to graze at St. 304 CLASSICAL TOUR Felice, or Monte Circello, on the Circean pro- montory. During all my foreign excursions I have ever felt a peculiar desire to visit monastic establish- ments, especially those of the more rigid orders, though from what motive I cannot state. Cer- tainly not for the sake of historical, or even se- cular, information, of which little can be gleaned from the secluded inhabitants ; nor for any predi- lection for these now useless establishments. I can only ascribe it to a love of those scenes, where nature exhibits her original and undis- guised character ; scenes which furnish gratification to the eye, and employment to the pencil. Such are the sites generally chosen by those who devote themselves to a life of solitude and contem- plation ; and such is the site of this convent. The aspect of nature is grand, striking, and sublime ; calculated to impress the mind with sentiments of awe and admiration towards its Creator. Thick and gloomy forests present a retreat suited to those who have renounced the gaieties, pomp, and luxuries of the world ; while the convent standing alone, far from the dwellings and turbulent occu- pations of man, affords no object to interrupt the silence of meditation, or to divert the attention of the voluntary recluse from the duties and occu- pations of his solemn profession. THROUGH ITALY. 30S Monday, November 22. Grateful for the at- tention shewn us by the worthy Carthusians, we bade them adieu ; and proceeded to Frnsinone, the place from whence I had diverged on Thursday the 1 1th. The noble groves and gloomy solitudes adjoining the monastery soon give place to a wide and open prospect. By a steep descent we came to the little village of Colle Pardo; under which is a natural cavern, situated on the side of a mountain. This we were advised to visit. We accordingly descended with torches. My curio- sity was not highly excited, as it had on similar occasions been frequently disappointed. Here, however, report had not exaggerated ; for my eyes were greeted with one of the most beautiful grottos I ever beheld ; similar, indeed, to those I had ex- plored in my journey from Vienna to Trieste, but more extended and rich in fanciful forms. Large vaulted roofs, spacious halls, fantastic columns, and pyramids, imitating rustic, yet unequalled, architecture, presented a fairy palace, which rivalled the most gorgeous descriptions of romance. After contemplating this exquisite work of nature with surprise and delight, we mounted our horses, and, leaving the town of Alatri to the right, arrived in the evening at Frusinone. VOL. V. X 306 CLASSICAL TOUR CONTINUATION OF THE JOURNEY TO ROME ON THE VIA LATINA. Monday, November 22. I resumed my anti- quarian researches at Frusinone, the Frusinum of the itineraries, and the next station to Fvegcllanunif now Ceprano, already described. Of this town, which retains only its name, I may say, stat nominis umbra for I could not ascertain that a single antique building or inscription was left to attest its past glory or existence. It is, however, frequently mentioned both by the Roman histo- rians and poets. Livy, lib. x, says, “ Frusinates tertia parte agri damnati, quod Hernicos ab eis solicitatos compertum.” And Diodorus, lib. xx, ‘‘ Romani, Frusinone expugnato, agrum venun- dare.” This event happened under the consulate of L. Genucius, and S. C. Lentulus, in the year of Rome 450. Frontinus mentions it as a Roman colony : “ Frusino oppidum muro ductum, ager ejus veteranis est adsignatus. The modern city extends more in length than THROUGH ITALY. 307 in breadth. It is situated on an eminence, and the streets are both narrow and dirty. The Rocca, or fortress, commands a fine prospect of the adjoining country. Tuesday, November 23. Continuing my journey on the Latin Way, I descended to the river Cosa, which flows immediately under the town. Here I observed a modern inscription, placed on a fountain, from which water is conveyed to the town above by females, with pitchers on their heads. Antiqui operis pontem, CosSl fluvio turgente suprS hominum memoriam Atque exundante, Eidibus Septembris Cl3l3CCLXXIII. Decussis utrinque lateribus^ Invium repente et inaccessum, Ne Consularis via, Ne commercia commeatusve Incolis, Accolis, Advenis, Interciperentur, Gives Frusinates publico aere Bimestrique oper&, Restituendum curarunt, Laxata pilis, adstructis arcubusque Pontis angustia, Adscensu hinc inde lenito, Subjectis profluenti refringendae molibus, Uberiorique sub aditum fonte adornato Hauriendae aquae, eluendis lineis, / J umentis adaquandis, Provinciae Preside Joanne Baptista Bussi de Praetis, Patricio Urbinate ac cive Frusinate. 306 CLASSICAL TOUR The structure of this bridge is very indifferent, and no traces of the more ancient one are visible. I was told, by an inhabitant of the place, that the Via Latina did not run in the line of the modern road, but deviated to the right, nearly opposite the osteria^ which is situated without the town, and crossed the river in the neighbourhood of the mills. No remains of antiquity occurred in my jour- ney to Ferentino ; but though no portion of the original Way is visible, many of the stones which composed it have been used in the reparation of the modern road, which is chiefly paved. It led me through a rich and well cultivated plain, bounded by distant mountains. Those to the left were clothed with wood ; but those to the right were barren. Beneath the latter is 2igrangiai belonging to the Chartreuse of Trisulto, called Tiichiena. Ferentino, which still retains its original ap- pellation, is pleasantly situated on a gentle emi- nence, commanding, on one side, an extensive view of the plain towards Frusinone, and, on the other, of that towards Anagni and Rome. Here I was amply repaid for my fruitless search after relics of antiquity at Frusinone. The edifice, THROUGH ITALY. 309 called the Vescovado, first claimed my attention. The foundations, which are composed of massive stones, without cement, hear the marks of high anti- quity. The next course is of smaller proportions ; the windows exhibit the Tuscan order; but the upper part of the building is evidently modern. A peculiar interest is given to the structure by the following inscriptions, which are inserted in the walls, and probably remain in their original si- tuation. On the southern side is No. ]. A . HIRTIVS . A . F . M . LOLLIVS . C . F . CES . FVNDAMENTA . MVROSQVE . A . SOLO . FACIVNDA . COERAVERE . EIDEM- QVE . PRO BAVERE . IN . TERRAM . FVN- DAMENTVM . EST . PEDES . ALTVM . XXXIII . IN . TERRAM . AD . IDEM . EX- EMPLVM . QVOD . SVPRA . TERRAM. SI- LICI On the eastern wall is the same inscription in one continued line. No. 2. Over a door, on the same side, is the follow- ing,—* 810 CLASSICAL TOUR No. 3, M . LOLLIVS . C . F . A . HIRTIVS . A . F . CES . FVNDAwjew/a /ACIVNDA . COERAVERVNT . EID. EMQVE . PROBAVERE. And over another door, in a subterraneous part of the palace, is the following. No. 4. A . HIRTIVS . A . F . M , LOLLIVS . C . F . CES . FVN- DAMENTA . FORNICES . FACIVNDA . COERAVERE . EIDEMQVE . PROBAVERE. The fornices mentioned in this last inscription are very extensive subterraneous vaults, long and narrow in shape, arched, and well built. One is now used as a reservoir for water. In another part of the Vescovado I found two inscribed stones: one unintelligible, the other, which is here given, well engraved in fine charac- ters, and in a good state of preservation : — Q . CAECILIO . Q . F ANOPTITANO . PRAEF . COH .1 AQVI TANOR . EQVIT . PONTIATE . SABINA .MATER FLAMINICA D . D . D. The adjoining cathedral abounds with frag- THROUGH ITALY. 311 merits of inscriptions, but in so mutilated a state that they could not be deciphered. Great part of the pavement is composed of broken inscriptions, sculptured ornaments in mar- ble, mosaic, porphyry, &c. Before the front of the building is a large granite column ; and adjoin- ing the small church of St. Pietro, a sarcophagus with its lid entire, but unornamented. In this last church is also a mutilated inscription, recording the distribution of gifts to tbe people, nuts to the boys, and commemorating illuminations ; but the names of the donors are lost. Part of it lies near the door of the chapel, and part is inserted in the pavement. The characters are indifferent. In the little church of S. Giovanni Evangelista is a memorial, dedicated by the Ferentinates to Cor- nelia Salonina, wife of the Emperor Gallienus, and now made use of as a baptismal font. CORNELIAE SALONINAE SANCTISSIME AVG . CONIVGI D . N . GALLIENI INVIC- TI AVGVSTI FERENTINATES. Considerable remains of tbe original walls are 'to be traced, built of grey stone, like the lower part of the Vescovado ; and a fine specimen appears near the gate, called Porta Sanguinaria. On the eastern side is a narrow subterraneous passage. 3l<2 CLASSICAL TOUR called La Grotta, which is said to have commu- nicated with the vaults of the Vescovado. To the east of the city rises a barren mountain, called Monte RadicinOf on which, according to tradition, stood the celebrated Temple of Juno, who was worshipped under the title of Dea Rerentina. Hither the Volsci, Hernici, Latini, and other neighbouring nations, resorted to hold councils in times of necessity, and conclude treaties, &c. On the same spot was a thick and sacred grove, and a copious spring of water ; but the first was cut down by the proprietors, the Carthusians of Trisulto ; and the last is dwindled into an insignificant rill. In the walls of a house belonging to Signor de’ Andreis are the following inscriptions : — No. 1. CAECILIO . OLYMPICO . AVO ET . CA- TIAE . L . F . PRIMILLAE MATRI. IDEM . QVIRENNALIS QVINQVENNALIS. No. 2. FORTVNAE SACRVM . VOTO SVSCEPTO. C 2 CAIIAIVS SICVRVS. In the Casa del Pizzi is another : — THROUGH ITALY. 313 No. 3. HIRTIA A . L AGATOCLIAE MONV- MENTVM FECIT . SIBI . ET CEPPIO . T . F. . .VB VIRO . SVVO. I observed the following inscription, placed at a considerable height, in the walls of a house in the principal street : — No. 4. P . M . SALONIEI . N . F AED . . . .PAVI- MENTVM D . S . P . F . C. The letters are in bronze, of a middling size, and inserted in a block of marble. On a pedestal, in the old church of Sta. Maria Maggiore : — No. 5. C . TAMPIO . SABINO BASEM . VETVS- TATE . CONSVMPTAM . ORDO D . L . C . RESTITVI . CENS. A fine picture in mosaic, placed over the prin- cipal door of this church, has been entirely ruined by neglect. The Porta del Borgo bears the following in- scription, which has been modernized by clean- ing:— 314 CLASSICAL TOUR IVLIAE . AVG . MATRJ AVG . ET . CASTROR. ET . SENATVS . AC PATRIAE . PIAE FELICE IMP . CAES . M . AVRELIO ANTONI . . , FELICI . AVG . PART . MAX . BRIT . MAX. MAX . GER AX . TRIB . POT . XVI IMP . II . COS . PROC . MAGNO . INVICTO . AC . FORTISSIMO . PRINCIPI SENATVS POPVLVS . QVE FERENTINVS. This stone seems to contain two memorials ; one in honour of Julia Augusta; the other of the Emperor Marcus Aurelius Antoninus, erected by the senate and people of Ferentinuip. In the Market-place I found a milliary, belong- ing to the Via Latina, with this inscription : — VII IMP . CAESAR DIVI . NER- VAE . F. NERVA . TRAIANVS OPTIMVS . AVG. GERM . DACICVS. PONTIFEX . MAXIM. TRIB . POT . XViin. IMP . villi . COS . VI. P . P. FACIENDAM CVRAVIT. Though the various commentators on the an- cient Itineraries do not precisely agree in their THROUGH ITALY. 315 respective estimations of the distances, there can be no doubt but this stone indicated the forty- seventh mile from Rome. Antonine, indeed, makes the distance from Rome to Ferentinum fifty-three miles ; the modern geographer, Dan- ville, calculated it at forty-six, and the present in- habitants make it exactly forty-seven. In the market-place is another mutilated in- scription, which I could not decypher. It seems, however, to have been a votive monument by QVINTIVS LATINA SALVTI PVBLICAE. A single stone now remains to be described. It is vulgarly called La Fata, the fairy or witch ; and surpasses any that I have seen during my travels, both in singularity and interest. It is not a mere votive tablet, or inscribed slab of marble, but hewn out of the solid rock, with its base, pilasters, cornices, and pediment. It stands in a commanding situation, on the declivity of a hill, without the walls of the modern city, near the gate of Sta. Maria Maggiore, and facing the Mmte Radicino, before described. This inscription re- cords the munificence of A. Quinctilius Pal. Pris- cus towards his municipes, or fellow citizens ; who, in gratitude, ordered a statue to be erected to his honour, in any part of the Forum which he might 316 CLASSICAL TOUR choose. It then recites his benefac:ions to his fellow citizens and married women, on his birth- day, of crustula, cakes, and mulsum*, \ mixture of wine and honey : the same donation, with pre- sents, sportulce, to the Decurions, and others, round his triclinium : also, a certain sum for the decoration and maintenance of his effigy ; and lastly, a liberal distribution of nuts to the plebeian boysf. * ''Mulsum est vinum, melle conditum,” Sportula, are small presents. Triclinium is derived from the Greek, and literally signifies three beds; but is often ap- plied to the apartment containing the beds, upon which the Romans were accustomed to repose at their meals. It is thus described by Pitiscus, in his Dictionary of Antiquities : Triclinium, sive lectus discubitorius, erat locus excelsus, ubi triclinio posito coenabamus, in quo quidam etiam tricli- nium sternere solent coenandi caus&.” t The Nucum sparsio, or scattering of nuts among the boys, was a custom prevalent with the Romans, and formed a part of the bridal ceremonies. It is thus alluded to by Virgil : — Sparge, marite, nuces. By this eeremony the husband was supposed to relinquish all boyish habits and pastimes, and to assume the manly eha- racter. Hence the proverb nucibus relictis: also the expres- sions, «Da nuces pueris,” and Satis lusisti nucibus.” THROUGH ITALY. 317 A . QVINCTILIO . A . F . PAL . FRISCO fm . VIR . AED . POTEST . nil . VIR . IVRE. Die . nn . VIR . QVINQ . ADLECTO . EX . S . C. PONTIF . PRAEF . FABR. eVIVS . OB . EXIMIAM . MVNIFICENT . QVAM . IN . MVNIC . SVOS . CONTVLIT . SENAT . STATVAM . PVBLICE . PONEND . IN . FORO . VBI . IPSE . VELLET . CENSVERE . H . A . I . R . HIC . EX . S . C . FVNDOS . CEPONIAN . ET . ROIANVM . ET . MAMIAN . ET . PRATVM . EX . OSCO . AB . R . PREDEM . HS . LXX . M . N . CTINAVIT . R . P . REDDID . EX . QVOR . REDITV . DE HS . IV . M . C . C . QVOD . ANNIS . VI . ID , MAI . DIE . NATAL . SVO . PERPET , DAREIVR . PRAESENT . MVNICIPIB . ET . INCOL . ET . MVLIERIB . NVPTLS . CRVST . P . I . MVLSI . HMEMN . ET . CIRCA . TRICLIN . DECVRIONIB . MVLSVM . ET . CRVST . ET . SPORTVL . HS . X . N . ITEM . PVER . CVRIAE . INCREMENT . ET . VI . VIR . AVG . QVIBVSQVE . V . VI . CRVST . MVLSVM . ET . HS . VII . N . ET . IN . TRICLIN . MEO . AMPL . IN . SING . H . HS . I . N . ET . IN . ORN . STATVAE . ET . IMAG • MEAR RESP , PERPET . HS . XXX . N . IMPEND . ARBIT . IIII . VIR . AEDILIVM . CVRA . FAVORABII, . ESTSI . PVER . PLEBEIS . SINE . DISTINCTIONE . LIBERTATIS . NVCVM . SPARSION . MOD . XXX . ET . EX . VINI . VRNIS VI . POTIONVM . E MINIS- TRATIONE . DIGNE . INCREMENTIS . PRAESTITERINT. Ferentinum is mentioned by Strabo as a city belonging to the Samnites. It was once in pos- session of the Volsci, and afterwards given to the Hernici, as we find from Livy, lib. iv. “Eodem anno, adversus Volscos, populantes Hernicorum fines, legiones ductae, a Furio console. Quum hostem ibi non invenissent, Ferentinum, qu6 magna multitudo Volscomm se contulerat, 31S CLASSICAL TOUR cepere. Minus praedae quam speraverant, fuit, quod Volsci, postquam spes tuendi exigua erat, sublatis rebusj nocte opidum reliquerunt : postero die, prope desertum capitur. Hernicis ipse ager dono datus.” Wednesday, NoTember 24. Having dismissed my saddle horses, on account of the uncertainty of the weather, I pursued my journey, in a calasse, through a rich and well cultivated plain, to Anagni, which is the Compitum Anagninum, placed by the compilers of the Itinerary at the distance of eight miles from the last station. I took up my lodging at a tolerable Osteria, about a mile and a half distant from Anagni. This town is built upon a lofty eminence, and was once the capital of the powerful nation termed the Hernici, of whom Virgil says, quos 4ives Anagnia pascit. Quos Amasene pater j non illis omnibus arma, Nec clypei, currusve sonant : pars maxima glandes Li vends plumbi spargit; pars spicula gestat, Bina manu j fulvosque lupi de pelle galeros Tegmen habent capiti, vestigia nuda sinistri Instituere pedis, crudus tegit altera pero. The territory of the Hernici was extensive; and, according to Livy, the whole nation assembled on this identical spot, in a circus, called maritimus ; THROUGH ITALY. S19 where, with one accord, they solemnly denounced war against the Romans, for capturing their city Ferentinum. Id aegr^ passi Hernici, concilium populo- mm omnium habentibus Anagninis, in Circo, quern Maritimum vocant, praeter Alatrinatem Fe- rentinatemque et Verulanum omnes Hernici nomi- nis populo Romano bellum indixerunt.” Cicero mentions this town as a municipium, and Festus as dkprceftctura, Frontinus calls it a co- lony: “Anagnia muro ducta colonia Dnisi Cae- saris populus deduxit.” The poet Silius alludes to . the fertility of its soil, and elevated situation : — Queis putri pinguis sulcaris Anagnia gleba. surgit suspensa tumenti Dorso frugiferis Cerealis Anagnia glebis. The modern city being built on the site of the ancient, few architectural remains are to be found, and not a single trace of the once celebrated circus * Si ha dair antiche seritture, che il Circo occupasse tutto lo spazio, che intercede, da sotto la piazza della Catte- drale, ed Ospizio de’ Padri Certosini, per sino alle chiese di St. Benedetto, e di St. Giovann i. — A, de Magistris, p. 10. 320 CLASSICAL TOUR Many fragments of the old walls are yet visible ; but the blocks of which they were com- posed are less massive than those at Ferentino. I noticed some considerable remains of an ancient structure, consisting of four arches, built with large square stones, and of the opus reticulatum. It was once apparently of great extent. Beneath is part of an antique pavement, formed not with blue, but whitish stones ; and near it, a reservoir of water, called li Bagno, supplied by a spring, which is strongly impregnated with vitriolic acid. I was informed, that, during the pontificate of Alexander the Seventh, a medal of Otho was found on this spot, bearing on one side the in- scription OTHO IMPERATOR, and on the averse, BALwewm SALVTARe, with a representation of the building itself. Within the memory of persons now living, an impression of it in stucco was affixed to the entrance leading into the reservoir ; but I could gain no farther in- formation respecting this curious relic of antiquity. In the contrada of the Pescina are some old arches and pilasters, which seem to have been destined as supports to the city walls. On this spot, the greater THROUGH ITALY. 3n part of the inscriptions placed under the Palazzo Publico were discovered. Two of these mention thermae^ or baths ; which were probably situated on the spot now occupied by the convent of the Nuns of Sta. Chiara, within whose garden is a small reservoir of water. The inscription, No. 1, records the reparation of a road leading to Villa Magna, by the Em- perors Antoninus Pius, Septimius Severus, and Marcus Aurelius. Hence we may conclude, that an imperial villa was situated in this neighbour- hood ; but I have not been able to trace its site. No. 1. IMP . CAESAR . DIVI . MARCI. I ANTONINI . PII . GERM . SARMATICI. FILIVS . DIVI . COMMODT . FRATER . DIVI. ANTONINI . PII . NEPOS . DIVI . HADRIANI. PRONEP . DIVI . TRAIANI . PARTHICI. ABN . DIVI . NERVAE . ADNEP. L . SEPTIMIVS . SEVERVS . PIVS . PERTI NAX . AVG . ARABIC . ADIAB . PARTHIC . MAX. PONTIF . MAX . TRIB . POT . 3^ . IMP . XII. COS . m . P . P . ET . IMP . CAESAR . IMP . CAESARIS . L . SEPTIMI . SEVERI . PII . PERTINACIS . AVG . ARABICI . ADIAB'. PART . MAX . PII . DIVI . MARCI . ANTO NINI . PII . GERwianiCI . NEPOS . DIVI . ANTO VOL. V. Y 322 CLASSICAL TOUR NINI . PlI . PRONEPOS . DIVI . IIADRIANI. ABNEPOS . DIVI . TRAlANI . PAKTHlCl . ADNEP. M . AVRELIVS . ANTONINVS . AVG . PIVS . FELIX . PONTIF . TRIB . POT . X . IMP , U . COS . UI . DES. FORTISSIMVS . AC . SVPER OMNES . FELICISSIMVS PRINCEPS. VI AM . QVA . DVCIT . IN . VILLAM . MAGNAM*. The second records the erection of a statue by the senate and people of Anagni, to T. Flavius Karus ; on the dedication of which he made the customary presents to the Decurions, Sexviri, and people. No. 2. T . FLAVIO . KARO . S . P . Q . A . EX . LEG POPVLI OB.INSIGNEM MVNIFICENTIAM ERGA . SE . ET . R . P . STATVAM . El PO- NEND . CENSVER. OB . QVARVM . DEDICA- TIONE. DEDIT . OECVRIONIB . XIII . ITEM SEX . VIR . XII . ET . POPVLO . XI. The third also commemorates the erection of a statue, by the same community, to Flavia Kara. * Alessandro de Magistris, in his History of Anagni, adds another line to this inscription SILICE . SVA . PECVNIA . STRAVERVNT. THROUGH ITALY. No. 3. FLAVIAE . RARAE. GENTIAE . FLAMIN. S . P . Q . A. EX . LEGATIS . POPVLT. IN . HO- NOREM FL.KARI.PATRIS EIVS.STATVAM EI.PONENDAM CENSVREYNT. The fourth is sepulchral ; and contains a pro- hibitory notice against any other interment in the same vault. No. 4. P . EGVLLEIVS . SAPOLIONIVS SEVIR . AVGVSTALIS .IVIVNATIA . NOBILIS AMABI- LIS.DELICIVM.VIXIT ANNOS XII. ALIVS . HOC . INFERETVR . NEMO. The fifth, which is sculptured in large letters, indicates the shrine of Laverna, the goddess of thieves and robbers ; who from her were called La^ernionts. She had an altar raised to her near one of the city gates at Rome, and she was gene- rally represented by a head without a body. This stone was found in the plain under Anagni, near the Osteria, which is supposed to have been the site of Compitum Anagninum. The sixth was evidently indicative of «ome public work raised by tbe people of Anagni. 324 CLASSICAL TOUR No. 5 No. 6 . DELVBRVM LAVEIINAE. SENATVS POPVLVSQVE ANAGNINVS. The seventh and eighth are in hadly formed letters, and refer to the reparation and dedication of the baths ; which were attended with the usual ceremonies. M . AVREL . SABINIANO. AVGG . LIB . PATRONO CIVITATIS . ANAGNINOR. ITEMQ . COLLEGI . CAPLATO RVM . DECVRIALl . DECVRIAE. HONORIA . ET . POPVLARIS . DENVNTIATORVM. ITEMQ . GERVLOR . SED . ET . DECEMVIRALIS. S . P . Q . A . ERGA . AMOREM . PATRIAE ET . CIVIVM . QVOD . THERMAS . LONGA . INCVRIA NEGLECTAS . SVA . PECVNIA . RESTITVERIT. SIGNVM . AEX . PEC . SVIS . PONEND . CENSVER. OB . CVIVS . DEDIC . DEDI . DECVR . XV . SEV. XII . POP . XI . ET . EPVL . SVFFIC. No. 7 No. 8, MARCIAE . AVREL. COLONIAE . DEME THROUGH ITALY. 3^5 TRIADI . STOLATAE FEMINAE . OB . DEDICATIONEM THERMARVM . QVAS . POST . MVL TVM . TEMPORIS . AD . PRISTINAM FACIEM . SVIS . SVMPTIBVS . RESTAV RAVER VNT . S . P . Q . ANAGNIN. SIGNVM . PONENDVM . CENSVERVNT. OB CVIVS . DEDICATIONEM . DEDIT . DECVR ONIBVS . XV . SIVIR . XII . POP . VI . SING. ET . EPVLVM . SVFFICIENS . OMNIB. I copied many other inscriptions ; but from their mutilated condition they are not worthy of record. The cathedral is a structure of the lower ages, and is adorned with a pavement of mosaic. In the sacristy are many vessels of gold and silver ; and beneath this building is a crypt. The arches supporting the Palazzo Publico are large, bold, and well-constructed. Anagni is supposed to contain a population of 8000 souls. Friday, November 26. Quitted Anagni at break of day, and passing by the Osteria della fontana, which is about a mile from that where I had lodged, I observed a portion of the Via Latina entire. Here I diverged from the customary road, to Valmontone, and turned to the left ; but after CLASSICAL TOUR journeying successfully six or seven miles, ray progress was stopped by the badness of the track, and the breaking down of a bridge. I was there- fore obliged to send back the vehicle, and pursued my course on horseback, having the towns of Gavignano and Segni on the left. Under the Os- ier ia di Gavignano f I observed the remains of an antique building of brick, with the opus reticu- latum intermixed. Afterwards I passed the ruined castle of Colic Ferro, and proceeded to Monte For- tino, a considerable village, situated on the declivity of a steep mountain. In all this track I discovered no vestige of the Via Latina, and was convinced, though too late, that I had taken a wrong direc- tion, through an uninteresting country, and over a very bad and circuitous road. From Monte For- tran, I made the best of my way to Valmontone ; where I found a very tolerable inn. This town belongs to the Principe Doria ; who, in the most commanding part of it, has a large palace. Saturday, November 27. From Valmontone I returned to Monte Fortino, and pursued the di- rect road towards Rome. I had very soon the satisfaction of again recognizing the vestiges of the Via Latina. About three miles from Monte Fortino is the Fontana delle Macere, where the station ad Pictas has been fixed. Evident indica- tions of the ancient way accompanied me as far as THROUGH ITALY. 327 La Cava, where two roads meet. From thence I proceeded to the Osteria della Molara, where Clu- veriiis places the next station of ^oboravia, near which a portion of the old road is still visible. The next stage was to Borghetto, considered by the same geographer as the ad Decimum of the Itineraries, near which there are still traces of the causeway. In many places I found the stones of the old pavement employed in the construction of the modern road ; and on many of them I even observed the impression of wheels. As I approached the imperial city I lost all traces of the ancient Way ; yet its course, like that of the Via Appia, is most satisfactorily indicated by a long series of old buildings and sepulchral monuments of those Quorum Latin^ tegitur cinis. 3'2S CLASSICAL TOUR EXCURSION FROM ROME TO THE LAKE OF CELANO, Sfc. IN ABBRUZZO. April 26, 1751, I quitted Rome, with the iu” tention of exploring that portion of country which had been left unexamined in my last autumnal tour, from unfavourable weather, and the advance of the season. The chief, and, indeed, ultimate, object of journey was the Fucine Lake, now bearing the appellation of Celano ; and I know not whe- ther I was more attracted thither by the interest which the district derives from the records of an- tiquity, or by a love of novelty, and a curiosity to examine a country little frequented by foreigners, and imperfectly known in an historical point of view, even by the natives themselves. My track lay once more over the course of the Via Latina, leaving Grotto Ferrata and the Alban mount on the right, and Frascati and Borghetto on the left. In this neighbourhood was the ancient Tusculum, the site of which still bears among the peasantry the name of Tuscolo. I was informed THROUGH ITALY. 3^9 that some remains of its wall, subterraneous vaults, &c. may yet be traced. I refreshed my horses at the Osteria della Molara, distant fifteen miles from Rome, and took the opportunity to examine some remains on the opposite hill which belonged to an old castle, but afforded no indication of Roman architecture. Continuing my ride, and passing the Osteria della Cam, I quitted the course of the Via Latina, which turns to the right, towards Monte Fortino, and pursued the road to Valmontone. On the summit of this hill I enjoyed one of the finest views imaginable, extending from Palestrina on the left, and Monte Fortino on the right, to the lofty and distant heights above Monte Casino, and com- prehending at one glance the numerous towns and villages which are scattered over the declivities of the mountains, descending on each side into a spa- cious and fertile plain. Tuesday, April 27. Continued my progress to Anagni, a part of the road leading me through a pleasant avenue of elm-trees, a very uncommon sight in Italy. I traversed the valley of St. Hi- lario, where the Via Lamcana joined the Via Latina, at a place called Bivium. I noticed the ruined fortress of Pimpinara, and at intervals I traced the fragments of the ancient way, a large 830 CLASSICAL TOUR portion of which is visible near the first osteria, under Anagni, but the colour of the stones forming the pavement is of a whitish tint. Not far from the osteria was a temple dedicated to Laverna, to which the inscription at Anagni, delvbrvm la- VERNAE, before mentioned, most probably be- longed. The same osteria which had afforded me quarters in my autumnal excursion, again received me, and on Thursday, April 29, 1 proceeded to the Osteria di Alatriy leaving Ferentino on the right. After dinner, I proceeded, passing under Veruli on the left, and again traversing Casa Mare, 1 once more found myself on the banks of the Liris, at Isola, having enjoyed a pleasant day’s journey, through a cheerful and well-wooded country. ITINERARY FROM ROME TO THIS PLACE. Osteria della Molara 15 -miles Valmontone 1 1 Osteria di Alatri ] 0 Isola 11 47 Sunday, May 1. This day was spent at Arpino, illustrated by the birth of two extraordinary characters, Caius Marius, the warrior, and Marcus THROUGH ITALY. 331 Tullius Cicero, the orator. This town is about three miles distant from Sora, and huilt upon elevated ground. The oldest part of it, called Civita Vecchia, is the highest, and overlooks the modern town. In the market-place are two busts of recent date, which record the me- mory of the two illustrious citizens from whom Arpino derives its celebrity ; but I could not dis- cover the remains of any building deserving the epithet of antique. The church of St. Michele Ar- cangelo is dignified with the title of the temple of the Muses, on the authority of a large niche, excavated in the native rock, containing nine of smaller proportions within. They exhibit some traces of painting, but appear to be a paltry work, and bear no mark whatever of Roman antiquity. A few inscribed stones are dispersed about different parts of the town ; and in the church of Sta. Maria are two, both mutilated and imperfect. One of these has the name of Mercurius in- scribed upon it ; and having been dug up in laying the foundation of this church, there is reason to suppose that a temple of Mercury once existed on this spot. In the house of Signor Devito I found a third inscribed stone, broken in two, which records the construction of some Cloacce. The proprietor in- 332 CLASSICAL TOUR formed me that in his garden there were the remains of subterraneous vaults and aqueducts, which were probably those alluded to in the inscription. In the house of Signor Cardelli is an inscription on a pedestal, supposed to commemorate the cele- brated Caius Marius. Unfortunately the first, and most important line is so mutilated, that it cannot be deciphered with certainty. As the pro- prietor transported it from Casamare, the sup- posed villa of Caius Marius, and as the person, in whose honour it was erected, is said to have been seven times Consul, cos. vii. there seems to be some grounds for the presumption of its originality. I give the inscription as I read it : — C . M COS . VII . PR . TRIE . PL Q . AVG . TR . MIL. Which is thus interpreted by the Abb6 Chaupy : — Caio Mario Cass, filio Aniensi .... Consuli Septimum, Prjetori, Tribuno plebis, Questori, Auguri, Tribune Militum. Arpino carries on a brisk trade in cloth, parch- ment, and hides. Though situated on an emi- nence, it abounds in springs of fine water. The circuit of the ancient city may yet be traced. It probably occupied the site of the Civita Vecchia ; from whence a considerable extent of the original THROUGH ITALY, 333 walls, composed of large stones without cement, still remains. On this eminence, which commands a most spacious and delightful prospect, the tradi- tional site of Cicero’s villa was shewn me in the domain of Signor Beilis. In the family of this gentleman a curious and well-preserved medal of the Emperor Claudius was long retained ; and it was the more esteemed, because it was supposed to have been formed of leather. He shewed it to Sir William Hamilton ; who, conceiving some doubt with regard to the material of which it was composed, threw it twice on a marble table. Still it remained entire ; but a third trial broke off a piece; which proved it to be fabricated with the same fine clay as was used in moulding the cele- brated Etruscan vases. On our return to Isola, we visited the remains of a bridge, over the Liris, called Ponte St. PaiilOj over which the ancient Way led to Arpino. A part of it was discovered under the foundation of the house belonging to Don Nicolo Tannini, by whom I was received, both at Arpino and Frusi- none, with true hospitality. This bridge has also been vulgarly termed Ponte delle sette coscie, or the bridge of tbe seven tbigbs. It was thrown over a part of tbe river, whose course is inter- rupted by several small islands, and consisted of seven arches, one of which, of good construction, still remains entire. CLASSICAL TOUR 3.14 Tuesday, May 3. I spent the morning at a Casino, belonging to the Duca d’Alvito, near the sources of the river Fibrenus ; which abounds with the most delicious trout I ever tasted. The noble proprietor has dedicated the following memorial to the Genius of the river : — Genio oblepiclissimi Fibreni, piscium atque Lympharum oblectamen, Turn aeris salubritate, Locique ameenitate Allectus, hoc suo in Prsedio hospitium Paravit amicis, Julius Licius. After dinner, I visited the small village of Castelluccio, near Isola, in order to examine an inscription, which, a few months before, my friend saw in a perfect state ; but at the time of my ex- cursion the letters in italics had been defaced. DIS MANIBVS C . N . PomPElus. A little farther on the road, at a place called Le Muraglie, or St. Lorenzo, I observed the sub- structions of a long wall, built with small stones, like the amphitheatre of St. Germ an o ; and in a farm-house opposite was the following inscrip- tion : — THROUGH ITALY. 335 D . M AEMILIAE . CHRYSOPOLl . AE- MILIA . lANVARIA DIPHILVS . PARENTES INFELICISSTMI . PIENTISSIMAE . FILIAE FECERVNT . QYAE . VIX . ANN . VIII . M . II . DIEB XIII. The ancient road passed between these ruins and the farm-house ; and was probably a branch of tbe Via Latina^ which directed its course by Casa- mare towards the Ponte St. Paulo and Arpino. I imagine, also, that another branch, or dvverticulum^ led from hence, under Castelluccio, to the Ponte Marmore, opposite Cicero’s villa. The following very interesting inscription was dug up during my short absence from Isola, in the year 1790, on the southern declivity of the hill, where Brocco is situated*. QVINTIVS . LVCIVS . BAREA . SORANVS. MVSARVM . AMICVS . DOMITILLAM . PVELLAM . FORMA . ET . VIRTVTE . PRAESTANTEM. QVAM ADAMAVERAT. DVRIS . PARENTIBVS . El DENEGANTIBVS. IN HAC . VILLA . QVAM . LAVTIVS . AEDIFICAVIT. LVCTV . MOESTITIA . ET . DOLORE . CONFECTVS. SVVM . INFELICEM . AMOREM . CONTINVO . FLEVIT. * Amongst the numerous inscriptions that occur to the traveller in Italy, there are few that can be said to interest .336 CLASSICAL TOUR The family of Barea Soramis is mentioned by Tacitus, Suetonius, &c. One of this name lived under the reign of Nero, and was proconsul of all Asia. His daughter, Servilia, espoused Asinius Pollio. Before I commence my journey to the Lake of Celano, and the district inhabited by the ancient Marsi, it may not be improper to note down a few of the books which may prove useful to the tra- veller, who directs his steps through this interest- ing district. 1. “ Raccolta di Memorie Istoriche delle tre Provincie degli Abbruzzi” (Antinori), 4 tom. quarto, Napoli, 1781. 2. “ Reggia Marsicana, o Memorie della Pro- vincia dei Marsi” (Corsjgnani), 4to. Napoli, 1738. ■ 3. “ De Viris Illustribus Marsorurn” (Corsig- NANi), 4to. Romae, 1712. 4. “ De Aniene ac Vise Valeriae ^Pontibus” (CoRsiGNANi), 4to. Romae, 1718. the feelings. They may be considered as mere monumental records of the names, dignities, and employments of the de- ceased. Not so with the one now under consideration. THROUGH ITALY. 337 5 . Historia Marsorum” (PHiEBONius), 4to. Neapolis, 1678. 6. De Columna Trajani, et Emissarii Laciis Fucini, descriptio” (Fabretti). Folio, Romae, 1683. 7. Decouverte de la Maison de Campagne d’Horace” (Capmartin de Chaupy). 3 tom. 8 VO. Rome, 1767. Friday, May 6. I left Isola, in company with my friend, the Auditore Galanti. Passing through Sora, and crossing the Liris, we turned to the left, and entered a well-wooded valley, surrounded by lofty mountains. The castle of Sora, built on the pinnacle of a rocky insulated eminence, presents itself in the centre of the picture, and seems to close the entrance of the valley. We dined at Balzerano, the first village in Abbruzzo, belonging to the family of Piccolomini; and were kindly received at the house of Don Clementi Tuzi. The old baronial castle, situated on the most elevated part of a rocky hill, and overlooking the village, is fitted up and occupied by the Baronessa Piccolomini. The river Liris flows through the vale, at the distance of about half a mile. The mountains are lofty and well wooded, and some VOL. V. z r538 CLASSICAL TOTIR capped with snow ; the oaks are numerous, and much larger than usual in Italy. Towards the north, the view along the vale is rich and exten- sive, and the scenery altogether pleasing. The whole, comprising the castle, village, &c. forms a perfect picture, and furnished the best of the nu- merous sketches which I made in these distant and unfrequented provinces. From Balzerano I pursued a winding course along the side of the mountain, over a gradual ascent and a rough stony road, through the vil- lages of St. Giovanni and St. Vincenzio, to the little town of Morrea, distant five miles. The ride was delightful ; the country picturesque, and greatly enriched by the luxuriant Toliage of large oaks. Few towns can boast of a prospect equal to that of Morrea, which, from the summit of an exalted pinnacle, commands an extensive view of the northern and southern vallies, watered by their respective streams, and enlivened by numer- ous villages, which deck the declivities of the mountains. The southern vale stretches as far as the passage of Alvito, and the mountainous district near Monte Casino, and presents one of the richest and most enchanting prospects I ever beheld. A letter of introduction to the principal family re- sident at Morrea procured^ us, as usual, a good lodging and a kind reception. THROUGH ITALV. 339 Some antiquaries, from a fancied resemblance of names, have supposed Morrea to be the site of the ancient Marrmium. But although silver and coppei medals, idols, and other relics of antiquity, have been discovered in the neighbourhood, parti- cularly at a place near the river, called St. Resti- tuta, which are evident indications of a settlement ; yet the certain evidence, the litera scripta, is want- ing to corroborate the conjectures hazarded re- specting Marrmium. A large collection of these medals, bronze idols, cornelians, &c. is preserved by the family, De Carolis ; among which are two printing seals, one bearing the superscription. Protogenes Ncwani Servus ; and the other, that of Marci Cotri Actoris. Saturday, May 7. From Morrea I continued my ride along the declivity of the mountain, amidst rocks and forests of oaks, to Civita d Antina, situated on an eminence still more lofty than that of Morrea, but commanding a prospect less extensive. By the zeal of the Ferrante family we are enabled to glean much historical infor- mation respecting this place, which was the city of the Antinates. Here I found a valuable series of inscriptions, collected in the town and its neigh- bourhood, and in good preservation. From the extent of the space in which these different memo- rials have been discovered, we may infer that the CLASSICAL TOUR r,4o niunicipiwn was of considerable magnitude. Many of the old buildings and churches, when pulled down, offer to the view the antique frag- ments employed in their construction. One of these, bearing the letters deck . dec., is still visible in the walls of a new church. A part of the original walls, built of huge stones, without cement, similar to those at Arpino, yet remain. The vestiges of one of the gates may also be traced ; and near it are the fragments of a reticulated struc- , ture. I was told that traces of an old paved Way might be found between Morrea and Civita d An- tina. It is probable that the Roman city occupied the same site as the modern town, for several of the inscriptions were found within its precinct . it seems to have extended along the declivity of the hill, toward the river, but not on the opposite side. I shall now advert to the most perfect of the numerous inscriptions still remaining, to indicate the original splendour of this city. No. 1 was found in the adjoining territory, amidst the rums of the church of St. Peter, five miles distant from the town. Q . NOVIO . Q . F . SER. SECVNDINO . OMNIBVS . HONORIBVS MARS . ANTING. FVNCTO . QVI VICSIT . ANN IS XXIII . Q' . NOVIVS SECVNDINVS . ET AELIA . RVFINA FILIO . PIENTISSIMO . P THROUGH ITALY. 341 Nos. 2, 3 , and 4, have been transferred to the residence of the Ferrante family. No. 3 was dis- covered amidst the ruins of St. Peters church, and No. 4 at a place called La Caiita. No. 2. Q . NOVIO . Q . F. SERG . IVCVNDO. P . M . CVR . KALEND. OMNIBVS . ONERI HO- NORIBVSQVE PERFVNCTO . ORDO DECV- RIONVM ET . SEXVIRVM . EX AERE . COL- LATO . OB MERITA . EIVS . CVIVS . OB DE- DIC . DEDIT . DEC . EPVL . SING . S . H .X:X . N. SEX VIR . EPVL . S . H . VII . N . PLEBI. EPVL . S . H . II . N . L . D . D . D. No. 3. Q . NOVIO . Q . F . SERG. FELICI . PA- TRONO. MVNICIPI . ANTING DENDROFOR . . . PVBLICE . HONOR. CAVSA . POSVERVNT. D . . . M No. 4. Q . NOVIO . Q . F . SER. CELERI . HU . VIR . I . D . nil . VIR . Q . Q . PATR . MVNIC. CVR . KAL . PVB. COLLEGIVM DENDRO- PHOR. P . M . P. L . D . D . D. 342 CLASSICAL TOmi No. 5 was dug up in the year 1789, at a place called La Castagna, about two miles distant from Antina. No. .5. D . M . S Q . NOVIO . Q . F . SERG. SVC- CESSO . P . M . OMNIBVS HONORIBVS . I FVNCTVS. Q . Q . Q . NOVII . FELIX. FES- TVS . SVCCESSVS. ET . CATIA . POLLA PATRI . PIISSIMO . ET BAEBIA . MANTIA • MARCELLA . MARITO . INCOMPARABILI . CVM . QVO . VIX . AN . XXXVII B . M . P. These five inscriptions relate to the family of the Noviij who appear to have held the most dis- tinguished place in this city. The sixth probably commemorates the dedication of a statue, erected in honour of Sextus Petronaeus Valerianus, by the College of Dendrophori. No. 6'. SEX . PETRONAEO. SEX . FIL . VALERI ANO. IJII , VIR . IVR . DICVND. SERGIA . ANTING, COLLEGIVS . DENDROPHORVM EX . AERE . COLLATO . PATRONO . MEREN TI . POSVERVNT . OB . CVIVS . DEDICA THROUGH ITALY. 343 TIONEM . DEDIT . DECVRIONIBVS AEPVLANT1BV3 . SING . S . H . VIII . N SEVIRIS . AVG . AEPVLAN . SING . S , H . VI . N COLLEGIO . S . S . AEPVL . SING . S . XII . H . N PLEBI . VRBANAE . AEPVL . SING . S . H . IIII . N L.D .D .D*. * I take the opportunity of explaining the term Dendro- phori, which occurs in this, and many other inscriptions noticed during my present Tour. The literal meaning of the word Dcndrophorus is wood- cutter, or wood-carrier, from Ssv$po;, a tree, and (pspcu, to carry. They were considered as artificers, and were frequently joined with others j namely, the fdbri, smiths, tignarii, carpenters, and to these were sometimes added the ccntonarii, as men- tioned by Gruterus, p. 261— ‘4. MAGISTRI . QVINQVENNALES . COLLEGE CORP . FABRVM . FERRAR . TIGNAR. DENDROPHOR . ET CENTON. These were severally formed into companies, under the title of Collegium ; which answers to the Italian term com- pagnia, and that of guild, or company, in England. The following is the explanation of Pitiscus : Dendrophori dicebantur, qui arbores coedunt, qui mate- riam ad bellicas machinas advehebant. Dicti, autem, qui in honorem alicujus Dei, ut Bacchi, vel Matris Deum, vel Sil vani, arbores stirpitus excisas, per urbem humeris ferrent. The province of Abbruzzo still retains the wooded ap- 344 CLASSICAL TOUU No. 7, whicli was found within the precinct of the present town, and is preserved in the collection of the Ferrante family, was dedicated to the me- mory of the wife of the Emperor Gordianiis. No. 7, PIISSTMAE . AVG. COIVGI . DOMINI . N . IMP . CAES. M . ANTONI . GORDIANI . PII . FELICIS . INVICTI . AVG. S . P . M . A. No. 8 is also in the possession of the same family, as well as another sepulchral memorial of the family of Petronaeus. pearance which it originally derived from nature. This may account for the frequent recurrence of the term Dendro- phori in the inscriptions of the district. Sevir, which occurs in this and other inscriptions, is thus explained : Sevir dicebatur equitum alae universae, qui praeerat. Seviri in municipiis, coloniis, prsefecturis, appella- bantur magistratus. Some of these officers were called Augustiales, of whom Pitiscus gives the following account : — Augustiales in suis civitatibus, coloniis, aut munici- piis, erant honestus ordo, sed infr^ decurionum amplitudi- nem, et supr^ plebis, aut populi tenuitatem. I THROUGH ITALY. 345 No. 8. C . BLAESIVS . 3 . L . PHILOMVSVS . SEVIR . AVGVSTALIS. LOCUS . EX . D . D , HONORIS CAVSA . PVBLICE . DATVS. V . S . F. But the most remarkable inscription is to be found near the confines of the town, on the road from Civita d’Antina to Civitella. It is sculptured in the solid rock, in large characters, and corrects an error of Pliny, who, in his division of the diffe- rent regions of Italy, twice mentions the Anti- nates. From his account, the people who bore that appellation are fixed near Monte Casino ; whereas we find from this curious record, that the people of this particular district were the Antinates. D . M. VARIAE . MONTANAE . QVOD . PAR . PARENTI . FVIT . FACERE FI- LIAM . MORS . IMMATVRA FECIT . VT . FACERET . INFELIX. PARENS . VIXIT . ANN . XXII. VAI^IA . ODYNE . ET . MON- TANVS POPVLI . ANTINATIVM. MA. . R . SER . ARCARIVS . FILI^ PIENTISSIMAE. Having spent the morning most satisfactorily with the Ferrante family, who pressed us to pro- long our visit, we again mounted our horses, and 346 CLASSICAL TOUR after a long but gradual descent of three milesj found ourselves once more on the banks of the Liris. We crossed it opposite the little town of Civitella, and refreshed ourselves and our horses at the house of Don Vincenzio Villa, where we expe- rienced the same cordial welcome as in the former part of our journey. After dinner we proceeded through the valley, which, contracting itself by degrees, closes under the town of Pesco Canale, leaving space only for the course of the river and the road. From thence to Capistrello the scenery is wild and picturesque. Here again we were re- ceived in another hospitable mansion, which be- longed to the Lusi family. THE CLAUDIAN EMISSARY. From anxiety to visit this celebrated work of the Roman Emperor Claudius, I bore with some degree of impatience a whole day’s confinement on the 8th, occasioned by a violent storm of rain, thunder, and lightning. The following day I de- scended with eager steps to the Emissary, and was so fortunate as to meet on the spot a former ac- quaintance, Don Ferdinando Ruberti*, the engi- * Don Ferdinando Rubefti obliging gratified my wishes, as an antiquary, by sending me a copy of his memorial, pre- THROUGH ITALY. . 347 neer; the Abate Don Giuseppe Lolli, and other persons, who were deputed by the Court of Naples to superintend the workmen employed in clearing this curious piece of antiquity. With them I ex- amined both the state of the ancient, and the pro- gress of the modern, work ; and obtained all the requisite information respecting this stupendous effort of Roman labour and perseverance. Justly, indeed, may it he deemed stupendous, when we consider it as the work of thirty thousand men for eleven years. The frequent inundations of the Fucine Lake induced the Marsi, in whose territory it was si- tuated, to present a petition to the Emperor, pray- ing for relief against so serious an injury. This application, which received no attention from Julius, Augustus, and Tiberius, was taken into consideration by Claudius. The work was com- pleted ; but the canal was not sufficiently deep to drain off the superfluous waters. Orders were therefore given by the same Emperor, to remedy this defect ; but death prevented the termination of so grand and useful an undertaking. The length of the Emissary is estimated at above three miles. Bented to the Supreme Consiglio delle Reali^ Jinanze, on the draining of the Fucine lake, dated August 12, 1788. 34S CLASSICAL TOUR It commences in the plain near the Lake, traverses a mountain of solid rock, and afterwards pursues its course through the Campi Palentini to Capistrello, where it discharges itself into the river Liris. At certain intervals were wells, or apertures, crossing the channel, called and cunicoli*^ serving a double purpose, namely, to admit air, and remove the materials, as the excavation proceeded. At each end of the mountain were cunicoli^ of larger dimensions, intersecting its direction at right angles ; one of which, nearest the lake, has been recently cleaned. Where the bed of natural stone fails, the sides and roof have been supplied by opus reticulatum, and other brick work. The pre- sent mouth of the Emissary is far advanced in the Lake, and considerably below the ordinary surface of the water. The sudden rise and fall of this Lake have never been satisfactorily explained ; and the only exit for the superfluous water has been fixed by Fabretti, and others, to the south of Luco ; which is regarded as the natural outlet of the river Pitonius, now La Pedogna. The modern chapel of St. Vincenzo, situated near the spot, is * The pozzi were square apertures, cut perpendicularly from the surface of the hill to the level of the aqueduct : the cunicoli varied in form, bqing dug obliquely from the top to the bottom. THROUGH ITALY. 349 supposed to have risen on the ruins of a temple, dedicated to the Deity of the Lake, under the ap- pellation of Fucinus, which is thus recorded in a votive tablet : — C . GAVIVS . H. F.C.VEREDVS. G . F . ME- SALLA. FVCINO . V . S. L . M. The historical memorials relative to this noble work are as ample and authentic as could be de- sired. They were written by the most celebrated historians of the times, and are faithfully trans- mitted to us. “ He attempted,” said Suetonius, in the Life of Claudtiis, the Fucine Lake, as much from the expectation of advantage, as from the glory of the execution ; since some oft'ered to drain it at their own expense, on the condition of receiving a grant of the land which it covers. He completed a canal, three miles in length, partly by cutting through, and partly by levelling, a mountain, though with great difficulty ; for thirty thousand men were constantly employed in the work during eleven years*.” * Fucinum aggressus est, non minus compendii spe, quara gloriae, cum quidam private sumptu emissuros, se re- promitterent, si sibi siccati agri concederentur. Per tria au- tem millia passuum, partim efFosso monte, excise partim. CLASSICAL TOUR .■^50 To commemorate the completion of the under- taking, the Emperor exhibited a naval comhat on the Fucine Lake ; which is thus recorded by the pen of Tacitus : — “About this time, A. U. C. 805, A. D. 52, a passage was cut through a mountain, between the Lake Filcinus and the river Liris. That a work of such magnificence might be seen to advantage, Claudius exhibited a naval engagement on the Lake, in imitation of Augustus ; who formed an artificial basin on the banks of the Tiber, and gave a similar spectacle, but with lighter vessels, and fewer mariners. Ships of th^, and even four, banks of oars were equipped by Claudius, carry- ing on board no less than nineteen thousand armed men. To prevent a deviation from the line, the lake was fenced round with rafts of tim- ber, leaving the intermediate space sufficiently wide to give free play to the oars, and for the pilots to display their skill ; and in the attack to exhibit the various operations of a sea-fight. On the rafts of timber were posted the praetorian guards, ranged in their several companies. Re- doubts were raised in their front, with proper canalem absolvit, jEgre et post undecim annos, quamvis con- tinuis triginta hominuiti millibus, sine interinissione operan- tibus.^ — Suet, p. 672. THROUGH ITALY. 351 engines for throwing massive stones, and all kinds of missile weapons. The rest of the Lake was as- signed to the ships. The mariners and combatants filled the decks. An incredible number of specta- tors from the neighbouring towns, and even from Rome, crowded to the banks of the lake, to enjoy the spectacle, or pay court to the Emperor. The banks, the rising ground, the ridge of the adjacent hills, presented to the eye a magnificent scene, in the form of an amphitheatre. Claudius and Agrip- pina presided at the spectacle ; the prince in a superb coat of mail, and the empress in a splendid mantle, which was a complete tissue of gold. The fleet was manned with malefactors ; but the battle was nevertheless fought with heroic bravery. After many wounds, and a great effusion of blood, the survivors were excused from fighting to de- struction, as a favour, for the deeds of valour which they had performed. The whole of this magnificent spectacle being concluded, the channel through which the waters flowed was laid open, and then it appeared how unskilfully the work was executed ; for the bed was not sunk deep enough to gain a level either with the middle or extremities of the lake. It was found necessary to clear away the ground, and give a freer course to the current. The operation was speedily finished ; and to attract a multitude 352 CLASSICAL TOUR of spectators, bridges were thrown over the lake, which were so constructed, as to afford room for a foot engagement. A shew of gladiators was ex- hibited on this prodigious platform. Near the mouth of the lake a sumptuous banquet was pre- pared : but the spot was ill-chosen. The weight of a vast body of water rushing down with irre- sistible force, carried'away the contiguous parts of the works, and shook the whole fabric. Confu- sion and noise filled the place : the roar of the torrent, and the crash of materials falling in, spread general alarm. Claudius stood astonished. Agrippina seized the moment to accuse Narcis- sus, who was entrusted with the direction of the whole ; and the favourite recriminated on her cha- racter, by inveighing against the impotence of a female spirit, her overbearing pride, and boundless ambition*.” Annals, book xii, chapter 57. * An inscribed stone, found near the Emissary from the Lake, has given rise to a dispute among antiquaries with re- gard to its orthography and meaning. Phaebonius, who is very inaccurate in his copies of inscriptions, mentions it thus, Ara ipsa magno lapide sustentabatur, quern sequens inscriptio majoribus literis designat:-;- NOBILIS . PROGENIES AVG. HIC . TVMVLATVS . EST. This nobilis progenies has been considered a still-born cliild of THROUGH ITALY. 353 Some incidents of this famous spectacle, which escaped the notice of Tacitus, have been recorded by Suetonius : — “ Immediately before the discharging of the Fucine lake, he exhibited upon it a naval fight. But those on board the fleets crying out, ‘ Health attend you, noble Emperor: dying men salute you;’ and he replying, ‘Health attend you too;’ they all refused to fight, as if by that answer he meant to excuse them. Upon this incident he was in doubt within himself whether he should not destroy them all by fire and sword. At last, leaping from his seat, running along the side of the Lake, and reeling to a ridiculous degree, he, partly by fair words and partly by reproaches, per- suaded them to engage. One of the fleets was from Sicily, the other from Rhodes ; consisting each of twelve ships of war, of three banks of oars. The signal of charge was given by a silver Triton, Agrippina, occasioned by fright, at the accident recorded by Tacitus. But Fabretti, with much greater appearanee of probability, thus interprets it : — “ Nobilis procurator, Neronis Caesaris Augusti, hie tumulatus est.” The whole of this contested inscription may, however, have possibly been a modern forgery. VOL. V. A A 354 CLASSICAL TOUR raised by mechanism*.” Thomson’s Suetonius, p. 395 . From these testimonies we may conclude, that the Emperor Claudius was the auctor operis^ though by the ignorance of his engineers the pro- per level was not found. Pliny, in adverting to this grand enterprise, says it could not be described by human language, and could only be compre- hended by actual inspection. Ejusdem Claudii, inter maxim^ memoranda, equidem duxerirti, quamvis destitutum successoris odio, montem per- fossum ad Fucinum Lacum, emittendum : inen- arrabili profect6 impendio, et operarum multitu- dine per tot annos ; cum corrivatio aquarum, qu4 terrenus mons erat, egeretur in verticem machinis, aut silex cederetur, omniaque inths in tenebris fierent ; quae neque concipi animo, nisi ab iis qui videre, neque humano sermone, enarrari possunt.” * Quin et emissurus Fucinum lacum Naumachiam ante commisit. Sed cum proclamantibus naumachiariis. Avete Imperator, morituri te salutant/’ respondisset, “ Avete vos/' neque post hanc vocem, quasi veni& dat^, quisquam di- micare vellet ; diil cunctatus, an omnes igni ferroque consu- meret, tandem e sede su& prosiluit, ac per ambitum lacus, non sine faed^ vacillatione, discurrens, partim minando, par- tim ad hortando, ad pugnam compulit. Hoc spectaculo classis Sicula et Rhodia concurrerunt, duodenarum trirerium^ singul®, exciente huccin&. Tritone argenteo, qui e medio lacu, per maehinam emerserat. — Suet. j>. 6'78. ‘I'HUOUGH ITALY. Antinori, in his ‘‘Storia degli Abbruzzi,” in- forms us, that in the year 1 18 this Emissary was completed by the Emperor Hadrian ; and that in the year 1 35 it was cleared out by his order, Phae- bonius also mentions an inscription existing in the collegiate church of St. Bartholomew, by which it appears that the Emperor Trajan recovered some of the lands inundated by the waters of the Fucine Lake. IMP . CAESAR! . DlVl. NERVAE . FIL . NERVAE. TRAIA NO . OPTIMO. AVG.GERMANICO. DACICO . PARTHICO. PONT . MAX . TRIB . POT . XXIII. COS . VI . PATRI . PATRIAE. SENATVS . POPVLVSQVE . ROMANVS. OB . RECVPER ATOS . AGROS . ET . POSSES . . . QVOS . LACVS . FVCINI . VIOLENT I much question whether the limited means of the King of Naples will be etpial to the restoration of this noble specimen of imperial industry ; for, from the lapse of time, the pozzi and cunicoli are probably filled up, and must be cleared with the same labour as was employed in their original construction, except near the ends, where the earth 356 ’ CLASSICAL TOUR might be removed by means of barrows. A great portion of the exit, near Capistrello, has been already cleared : a space sufficient to give the traveller and antiquary an idea of the work in its pristine state, but not to answer any useful purpose. I may appear tedious and diffuse in recapitu- lating these particulars ; but what is the object of history and antiquarian research ? and in what does their interest consist, if it be not in collect- ing and combining scattered and insulated facts, and elucidating them by local investigation ? Without the aids which may be drawn from his- tory and antiquities, what sensations would the Lake of Celano inspire beyond those excited by the sight of a transparent sheet of water, sur- rounded by mountains ? sensations which might please for the moment, but would be soon oblite- rated by new impressions. Again, in traversing the road from Florence to Rome, who would not contemplate with indifference the Lake of Thrasy- inene, had history neglected to record the heroic deeds of Hannibal on its banks ? In fact, through- out all Italy every scene bears a classic character, and every district acquires double interest, from the recollections it calls forth. Tlie territory adjoining the Fucinc Lake was THROUGH Il'ALY. 357 formerly inhabited by the warlike Marsi, among whom the Marmvii and Albenses were pre-emi- nent. Their capitals were Mart'wviiim, and AWa^ denominated Fucensis, to distinguish it from Alba Longa, near Rome. The poet Silius has thus de- scribed this district: Marruvium veteris celebratum nomine Marri Urbibus est illis caput, interiorque per udos Alba sedet campos, pomisque rependit aristas, Caetera in obscuro famae, et sine nomine vulgi, tied numero Castella valent. The distance between Marruvium and Alba is stated in the Itineraries at xiii miles, and the dis- covery of inscriptions, together with numerous splendid remains of antiquity, has fixed, in the most satisfactory manner, the site of Marruvium at St. Benedetto, on the border of the Fucine Lake. One of these inscriptions I saw inserted in the walls of a miserable house, with its face reversed. It describes Marruvium as splendidissima civitas ; and records the memory of Modestvs Pa v LIN vs, who was praefect of the city, and of the FcricB Latinct; also quaestor of the city, and praetor of the fifteen towns of Etruria ; curator of the splendid city of Marruvium, and at the same time of the Tiburtine and Valerian Ways. From the numerous fragments of antiquity which still exist on this ground, I am persuaded that to the CLA^JjlCAL TOUR sri8 ancient Marnw'ium the epithet of splendidissima was very justly applied. C . O . MODESTO . PAVLINO . CV PRAEF . VRBIS . FERIARVM. LATINARVM • QVAESTORl . VRBANO . AED . CER. PRAE- TORI . EODEMQ TEMPORE PRAETOR . AETRVR . XV . POPVL. CVRATORl . P . SPLENDIDISSIMAE . CIVITATIS MAR . MARR . EODEM . TEMPORE . ET . CVR . VIAR . TIB . VAL . ET* Phagbonius mentions another inscription as existing in the church of St. Sabina, in which the * Thus far I copied myself j but Phaebonius has sup- plied the last line with the words et . aexm . patrono . ABSTi. and added another, nentissimo. The Abb^ Chaupy has supplied the deficiency in another manner, namely, et , NOM . PATRONO . PRO . ET . MERENTISSIMO. One of thcSC authors must err j but it is of little consequence who is right, as all agree in regard to the most material part of the in- scription. This piece of antiquity has also been noticed by Muratori, page MLvn, 2, who supplies the two last lines thus : — ET . FLAM . PATRONO , ABSTI . NENTISSIMO. I think much more satisfactorily than either of the others, making the person herein recorded curator of the Via Fla- minia, as well as of the Tiburtina and VaLria. THROUGH ITALY. 359 Civitas Marsorum, Marrmiwn^ is recorded. Ali- amqae in ecclesi^ Sanctae Sabinas, olim Cathedralis, in fronte capsae lapideae.” M . MARIOCVS . PATRONVS . CIVITATiS MARSORVM . MARR . HOMO . INTEGRiE EXISTIMATIONIS . PARCVS . DILIGENS. FRVGI . QVI . RESPONDERE .... BORES AERIIS.X.PREPO SOTO. MOESSIE. ANN. XXXIII . MENSV . . . VINI .... DIERVM . XX • HIC SIT VS . EST . QVI . MATRT . FILIIS QVA^ RVM . VOL . PATRIS . JVSSV XI . DEBERl . BRVTIVM . DOS . RES . A SVCCESSORIBVS . MATRIS . ET . CVIVSDEM . CORPVS . SITVM . ES . . . DIERVM . V. The circuit and outward walls of a spacious amphitheatre may be traced. From the ruins of an antique building, composed of stone and opus re- ticulatum, several busts and statues were dug up a few years ago, and conveyed to the Royal Palace at Caserta. The distance between Marrumum and Alba agrees very well with that of the Itinerary ; and in the interval, different fragrnants of the Way, as well as of the sepulchral monuments which usually marked its course, are still observable. Two of these sepulchres, of a majestic form, stand on the border of the Lake, near the ruins above mentioned, and present a picturesque appearance. .360 CLASSICAL TOUR According to vulgar tradition, a city, called Valeria, once occupied this spot ; but this tale rests on no good authority, while the precedency of Marru- vium is satisfactorily proved by the existing docu- ments. St. Benedetto is at present reduced to a few houses, occupied by a small number of wretched inhabitants. It is subject to the jurisdiction of Pescina, the see of a bishop, two miles distant. The old church of Sta. Sabina, enjoyed the name and privileges of a cathedral. According to Phaebo- nius, it once contained many inscriptions ; but these, as well as the structure which sheltered them, have perished by neglect. In the neigh- bourhood of this spot I discovered several in- scribed stones, which are here copied. No. 1. L . OCTAVI VS . N . F . SER . BALBVS. PRAEF . FABR . PRAEF . CASTROR . PRIM . PIL. n . VIR. No. 2. D . M . S. CELERIAE . APHRODITENI QVAE . VIXIT ANN . XXVI. FVCENTIVS . CALVENTIAE . CLEMENTIANAE . SER . COIVGI . B . M . P. THROUGH ITALY. 361 No. 3. D . M . S. FELICISSIMO . AVG . N- FLAVIANE . CONSERVA. CVM . QVO . VIXSIT . ANN . XXXX. VAIA . CVMEDIS. GENTIBVS . EIVS. S . B . M . P . No. 4. D . M . S. LEGITIMAE. Q . PAQVIVS . PERGAMVS . COLIB . M . P. At the distance of xiii miles, according to the Roman Itineraries, stood the ancient city of Alba Fucensis, the rival of Marrmmm in riches and magnificence, and superior in regard to strength ; for as Marrwvium occupied a low situation, on the border of the Fucine Lake, so Alba crowned the summit of an eminence, fortified by the hand of nature. This hill was so difficult of access, that it was used by the Romans as a fortress, and place of confinement for their most distinguished prisoners. Here many a royal and princely cap- tive awaited the usual summons to grace the tri- umphal procession of his conqueror to the Capitol, and then returned to a dreary dungeon, to deplore his blasted laurels, to regret his lost dominions and honours, and to linger out the remainder of a wretched and degraded existence in want and con- tumely. Such was the fate of Perseus king of Macedon, and his son Alexander. 362 CLASSICAL TOUR This eminence, at the foot of which runs the Via Valeria, is composed of three separate hills, all rising in an insulated manner from the plain. From the superior strength and elevation of that which is crowned by the deserted village of Alhi, and its ruined castle, I imagine that it was the site of the Roman prisons. Here I copied the follow- ing inscriptions. The fragment. No. 1, serves as the door-step of the Casa Blasetti, and is formed of large characters. No. 1. nil . VIR . QVINQ No. 2 is inserted in a stone wall adjoining. No. 2. C . TITVLEIVS IIII . VIR . ITER . QV No. 3 lies prostrate in the street, behind the Casa Blasetti. No. 3. L . MARCLEIVS . L . L . PHILARGVRVS GLADIARIV No. 4 is preserved in the little church of St. Antonio Abate. THR()l*(iII ri'ALY. 363 No. 4. D . M . S. CAMBRIA . HILARITAS . Q . NAEVIO . lANVARIO . COIVGl . B . M . ET. SIBI. CVM . QVO . VIXIT ANNOS . XII D . XX. The entire circuit of the ancient walls may be traced. They are formed of large irregular stones, laid on each other without mortar. Many por- tions remain in good preservation, and convey a competent idea of the mode and strength of the original fortifications. In several places the stones are united in the same manner as those which formed the ancient roads. Of this species of con- struction I observed a good specimen towards the northern side, where the vestiges of one of the gates are visible, as well as of the road leading into the plain beneath. Near it were the remains of circular buildings, of brick and stone, which may have served as guard towers. At different inter- vals I found square projections, like bastions, in the walls. Under the second hill, towards the south, the line of communication between the dif- ferent parts of the wall is formed by means of a large building, of opus reticulatum, facing the Lake. The third hill, surpassing the others in prospect and situation, appears to have been the seat of pleasure, amusement, and devotion. On the sum- CLASSICAL TOUR 3tJ4 mit are the remains of an amphitheatre, with one of its entrances, composed of large blocks of stone. Near it I observed another cavity, which, from its semicircular shape, and the situation of the seem, I conceived to have been used as a theatre. The Franciscan Convent, and the church of St. Pietro, occupy the site of an ancient temple, the magnificent substructions of which are still visible. Sixteen columns of the Corinthian order support the tottering roof of the church; and the pavement contains a few mutilated and uninte- resting inscriptions. I was much struck with the situation of this church. A spacious and verdant plain, which is annually the scene of a fair, and a group of fine old trees, compose the nearer view ; while the dis- tant prospects contribute to render this spot one of the most pleasant retreats I ever beheld. On one side the eye dwells with delight on the beau- tiful bason of the Fucine Lake, with the town and fertile plain of Avezzano adorning its banks, the coast of Luco, Trasacco, &c. &c. On the other side it overlooks the vale of Cesolino, and the con- tinuation of the Campi Palentini, where the un- fortunate Conradino was subdued by his rival, Charles of Anjou, in contending for the rich and fertile kingdom of Sicily. In a different direction, the lofty Avellino, Mom Vdinus, the most elevated THROUGH ITALY. S65 point of the Apennines, upreavs its snowy summit. The whole extent of this triple hill, exhibits innu- merable indications of ancient population ; and the corn fields are thickly strewed with fragments of rich marble mosaic, &c. Alba was made a Roman colony. Anno U. R. ccccL. under the consulate of Lucius Genusius and S. Cornelius Lentulus ; when six thousand colonists were transplanted thither. From its natural strength it afterwards became a place of considerable importance, and was frequently the head-quarters of the Legio Marsica, so famed for its courage and fidelity to the Republic. Of this body Cicero himself was the eulogist and advocate, in his philippic against Antony. Placet igitur mihi, Patres Conscripti, Legionis Martiae militibus, et eis qui una pugnantes occiderunt, monumentum fieri, qu^m amplissimum. Magna atque incredi- bilia sunt, in Rempublicam, hujus merita Legionis. Haec se prima abrupit latrocinio Antonii ; haec se ad Caesarem contulit ; haec tenuit Albam. Ex Martia nonnulli in ipsa victoria conciderunt. O fortunata mors! quas naturae debita, pro patriA. est potissimum reddita 1” In another philippic he no less warmly testifies his approbation, not only of this faithful legion, but of the citizens of Alba. “ Nec ver6 de Legione Martin sileri potest. Quis enim unus forfior, quis amicior unquam Reipublicae CLASSICAL T(HJR fuit, quani Legio Martia nniversa ? Quae cum hoslem populi Romani Antoniumjudicasset, comes esse ejus amentias noluit, reliquit Consnlem, quod profect6 non fecisset, si eum Consnlem judicasset, quern nihil aliud agere, nihil rnoliri, nisi coedeni civium, atque interitum civitatis videret. Atque ea legio consedit Albas: quam potuit nrbem eligere, aut opportuniorem ad res gerendas, ant fideliorem, aut fortiorum virorum, aut amiciorum populi Romani civium?” In another place he again eulogises Alba for the fidelity, bravery, and merits of its citizens : “ Albas constiterunt, in urbe opportune, rnunit^, propinqua, fortissimorum vio- rornm, fidelissimorum civium, atque optimorum.” On the border of the plain, at the foot of the hill, I found four inscribed stones, three of which bear the name of titvleivs, and the fourth that of ALLiDivs, which is to been seen at the fountain of Androsciano. D . M . S. M . ALLIDIO . PROBATO . SEV . AVG. ET . ALLIDIAE . PANNICIDI . CONIVGI . EIVS. M . ALLIDIVS . MERCV- RIALIS . ET . M . ALLIDIVS . PROBATV- RVS . SEV . AVG . ET . ALLI DIA CAS PA . ET . ALLIDIA . TERENTIA , PATRONO . ET . FRATRI B . M. THROUGH i'i'ALY. 367 A friend gave me the copy of an inscription, which formerly existed at Androsciano, and is in- teresting as a record of the Populus Anxantinus*. . . . MAREDIO . C . F . FAB. . . . O . IIII . VIR . ID . QVAEST TIMO . R . P . CVRAT . lOVEM . STATOR . IIII . VIR . ID. R . S . P . ANXATINVS D . D . D. Phsebonius, page 171, has preserved another inscription, found at Massa, to the north of Alba, in which the name of Maredius is mentioned ; and another, page 179, discovered among the ruins of the ancient Cuculum, now Scurcola, which, by the words Curatori apud Jovem Statorem, tends to elu- cidate the foregoing inscription at Androsciano. D.M. S. L. Marculeio Saturnino Veterano Augustico vn pri III. viro. i. d. Quaestori Reipublicae, curator! pecuni® et alimen; curatori annonae plebis, curatori omnium publico- rum j curatori apud lovem Statorem. Q. Collegi fabrorurn, tigniariorum. L. Marculeius Faustus Junior iii. virjuredicj curatori annon® ; patri optimo et sibi fecit. * The Marsorum Anxantini are enumerated by Pliny among the people of this district. Ph®bonius places their city on the side of Poggio Philippo, which lies at a short distance to the west of Scurcola and Alba. CLASSICAL TOUR S-6S Avezzano, which, by the hospitality of Don Ladisleo Mattei, was rendered a most delightful residence to me, may be considered as the capital of the district, once inhabited by the Marsi, in point of civilization and population. It probably rose from the ruins of the neighbouring city of Alba ; and though it can boast of no architectural antiqui- ties, yet it is not destitute of inscriptions. During my abode there I traced these which follow. No. 1 is inserted in the pavement of the cathe- dral church ; No. 2 is in an old house near the town. No. 1. D . M . S. Q • NAEVIO . THO PHIMO . MAR CIA AVGENDA. CONIVGI . B . M. POSVIT . ET . FI . SIBl. cvM . Qvo . vixrr ANNIS . XVI . M . V. No. 2. I) . M . S. M . MARCIO . EVTYCHETI. L . SALVIVS SVCCESSVS. AMICO . OPTIMO. MARCIA . RESTVTA. CONIVGI . CARISSIMO, MARCIA . IVSTA. PATRI . PIENTISSIMO. No. 3, which commemorates the name of a most excellent cook, stands in the Piazza. No. 3. o o HALICIVS O c o p MARCIO . FAVSTO n p o LIBERTO. o •tS H SEVIR . AVG. 6s< DENDROFORO. P ALBENSI . ET J’ROPHIME . MATRI. > P THROUGH ITALY. 369 The baronial castle, belonging to the Contes- tabile Colonna, contains some old inscriptions, which have been copied by Phasbonius and Corsig- nani. The altar-piece of the cathedral church is painted by Carlo Maratti. Pliny, vol. i. page lf)8, in his general division of Italy, enumerates among the Marsi, the Anxan- tini, Antinates, Fucentes, Lucenses, Marruvii, and Albenses. Of these I have already ascertained the situation of the Anxantini, at Poggio Filippo, near Scurcola ; the Antinates, at Civita d’Antino ; the Marruvii, at St. Benedetto ; and the Albenses, at Albi. It now only remains to discover the resi- dence of the Fucentes and Lucenses, which I hope to accomplish by pursuing my researches on the southern border of the Fucine Lake. Following the southern shore of the Lake I came to the small chapel of St. Niccolo, where I found this inscription, dedicated by some soldiers to Hercules : — HERCVLEI . D. MILITES . AFRICA. CAE- CILIANVS.MAG . CVRAVIT, C . SALTORIVS . C . F. At the distance of two miles and a half is the Emissary, over which the modern road now passes. VOL. V. B B 370 CLASSICAIy TOUR The Cunicolo Maggiove, with its three apettufes^* are descried on the side of the mountain, to the tight. Next is seen, to the left, the Pedogm, before mentioned, where the waters of the lake are supposed to have formed a natural emissary, and discharged themselves by filtration through the rocks. More to the left, and near the present border of the lake, are the ruins of a little chapel, dedicated to St. Vincenzio ; where tradition points out the site of a temple, sacred to Pitonia. The ne*t object which attracted my attention was the church of Sta. Maria di Luco, now deserted ; but still used as a cemetery to the adjoining town of Luco. In the outward walls of this building I found an inscription, which is very imperfectly copied by Coraignani, page 308. T . PETICIVS . L . F . CHIRVPxGVS. L\BORE . ET . CVRA . VJ VOS . PERFECI . HANG . DOJMVM. SED . FILIO . ANTE . HVIC . HOMINI . IVCVNDISSIMO, PARAVI . TRIBVS . VBE . OSSA . NOSTRA. ADQVIESCERENT. MORS . ME . ADSEQVE'mi . TVNC . MIHI . D1-:METVR . DOLOR. YALETE. ET . MEMORES . ESTIS . PIETATEM . P AIRIS. Beneath this church, which a{>pcars to have been erected on the foundations of a more ancient edifice, I observed, in a direction leading towards the lake, the remains of military walls, constructed THROUGH ITALY, 371 . like those of Alba, with large stones, though placed in a more regular order. I could also trace the continuation of these walls, as well as of other old buildings, beneath the surface ofthe lake ; which ap- pears to have made considerable incroachments on the shore in this quarter. Here then, I think, without giving an unreasonable scope to conjec- ture, we are w'arranted in placing the Liicenses, and perhaps the Nemus Angiticd, recorded by Virgil, in his description of the different nations engaged in the contest between Turnus and /tineas : — Quin et Marruvi^ venit de gente sacerdos, Fronde super galeam et felici comptus oliv&, Archippi Regis missu, fortissimus Unibro: Vipereo generi et graviter spirantibus hydris, Spargere qui somnos cantuque manuque solebat, Mulcebatque iras, et morsus arte levabat, Sed non Dardaniae medicari cuspidis ictum Evaluit; neque eum juvere in vulnera cantus Somniferi, et Marsis quaesitte in montibus herbae. Te nemus Angitiae, vitrei te Fucinus undSl, Te liquidi Severe lacus. ^NEiDj lib. vii. Umbro, the brave Marruvian priest, was there. Sent by the Marsian monarch to the war. The smiling olive, with her verdant boughs. Shades his bright helmet, and adorns his brows. His charms in peace the furious serpent keep. And lull th’ envenom’d viper’s race to sleep; 372 CLASSICAL TOUR His healing hand allay’d the raging pain. And at his touch the poisons fled again. But yet he fail’d to cure, with all his art. The wound inflicted by the Trojan dart. Nor all his charms, nor potent herbs, that grow On Marsian mountains, could prevent the blow. For thee, wide echoing, sigh’d th’ Angitian woods, For thee in murmurs wept thy native floods*. Warton’s Virgil, p. 323. To the magic powers of the Marsi the poet Silius also alludes : — Hae bellare acies ndrant : at Marsica pubes Et bellare manu, et chelydris cantare soporem, Vipereumque herbis hebetare et carmine dentem. Aetae prolem Angitiam mala gramina primam Monstravisse ferunt, tactuque domare venena, Etlunam excussisse polo, stridoribus amnes Frenantem ; ac silvis montem nudasse vocatis. Lib. viii. From Solinus we gain some information re- specting the Nemus Angitice, which derived its name from Angitia, one of the three daughters of * The last pathetic lines of this passage are prettily para- phrased by Anstey, in the Bath Guide : — Him mourn’d all the dryads on Claverton’s mount. Him Avon deplor’d, him the nymphs of the fount. The crystalline streams.” THROUGH ITALY. 373 Aetes. She is said to have fixed her residence near the Fucine Lake ; and from her great knowledge of the virtues of plants, and her skill in the application of them, at length attained the honours of a deity* ** Circe, whose supposed habitation, the Circean Promontory, has been described in a former tour, was another daughter ; and the third was Medea, whose son became ruler of the Marsi. So that from this fabulous relationship, the Marsi supposed themselves proof against the bite and poison of serpents'!". Even the modern inha- * The following inscription, which is mentioned by Mu- ratori, CXI II. as existing in the neighbouring town of Sul- mona, seems to refer to this deity ; — Fuficia. C. Fufici. Amandi. F. Justa. Mag. Angitiis. D.D. * I give the words of Solinus : — “ Caelius Aetse tres filias dicit, Angitiam, Medeam, et Circen. Circen Circaeos insedisse montes, carminum male- ficiis varias imaginum facies mentientem. Angitiam, vicina Fucino occupavisse, ibique salubri scientioe adversus morbos resistentem, quum dedisset hominem vivere, Deam habitam. Medeam, ab Jasone Buthroti sepultam filiumque ejus, Marsis imper&sse.” On which the Annotator observes : ** Rectiiis illi qui Medeam, ab Italis Angitiam vocatam, fuisse volunt. Earn Marsi, et Marrubii hoc nomine colue- runt.” 374 CLASSICAL TOUR bitants, bordering on the lake, affect to deriv this virtue from their ancestors, and imagine that they bear the antidote in their persons : ideoque *vencna contemnunt. At the distance of three miles from Luco we find another village, called Trasacco, a name evi- dently corrupted from Tram aquas^ which retains many memorials of antiquity. Here the waters of the Lake have made considerable incroach- ments, and robbed the inhabitants of many acres of rich and valuable land. On the right is a long and deep valley, leading to Colle lungo, and from thence across the mountains to Balzerano and Sora. The name of Tram aquas is applicable to the situation of Trasacco, with respect to Marru- vium ; for between these two places a steep and perpendicular mountain, extending itself into the lake, precludes a passage along the bank, and ren- ders a communication by water necessary. A modern stone, placed over the door of the sacristy, in the church of St. Cesidio, bears the following inscription, which records some portion of the ancient history of the place. Quod hie ClaudiusNero.Rom. Imp.Emiesar. Fucini opere jnenarrabili undenos ann.triginta hominum milliaconfecturus domum quae modo Ecclesia E. A. S. Rufino Marsor. Epo. consecrata an. CCXXXVII suae stationis solatium erexit. Quod Trajanus Aug. idem purgaturus hue advenerit, stetc- THROUGH ITALY. S75 ritque liis reliquils j pnneter alia vetuatatis monumcnta duo- rum Cffisarum domum Lector agnosce. Pa gan! incenderunt, et cives restauravere. Ulus vero et Rinas D. Dom. Ant. Brihi. Marsor, Epus. solemniori ritu die X.XVIII Octob. re* consecravit An, MDCCLII. I noticed many inscriptions, of ancient date, lying neglected in the Atrio, or church-yard of St. Cesidio ; most of which being sepulchral, and exhibiting* no novelty of style or expression, aje not worthy of publication: one stone more orna- mented than the rest, again commemorates the name of Peticivs ; and another, surmounted by a basso relievo, represents military trophies, and in the first line mentions the Primipilus, who held a distinguished rank in the Roman army. He pre- sided over all the other centurions ; and in battle generally gave the word of command, by order of the Tribunes. The eagle, or chief standard of the legion, was also entrusted to his care ; and hence the phrase aquita pi'eesse signified the dignity of Primipilus. Two, however, of the inscribed stones must be mentioned. The first relates to the erection of a new tribunal, and the reparation of a pro- scemiwif for the performance of Ludi scenici) or stage plays. The last commemorates an Amphi- theatrum Fucense, and seems to allude to the Nau- machia^ exhibited on the lake by the Emperor 376 CLASSICAL TOUR Claudius. Its deficiences are much to be regretted. These inscriptions attest the site of an ancient re- sidence of some magnitude, and the last affords some reason to infer, that it was that of the Fu- censes. No. 1. MELANTHVS . P . DECI ET . COL- LEGAE . MAG . . HE TRIBVNAL . NOVOM A . SOLO . FECER. THEATRVM . ET . PRO- SCENIVM . REFECER. LVDIS . SCENICIS • BID VO . DEDICAR. D . S . P. No. 2. AMPHITHEAT. HOC . FVCEN . IMP. R . HIC . M . HOM . FORMID . AFFECT . SIFV . . . MISER . CVR . ANN . VRB . COND. Between Trasacco and St. Benedetto are Or- tucchio and Venere ; at each of which places coins and other relics of past times have been found. Arcippe, the capital of King Arcippus, which is supposed to have borne the name of Arcipenna? is said to have been swallowed up by the lake. During my abode at Avezzano my attention was chiefly directed to those spots where remains of antiquity have been found ; and in this respect THROUGH ITALY. 377 the borders of the Fucine Lake afforded me a rich harvest. The province of Abbruzzo, unfrequented by the generality of travellers, and unknown even to the inhabitants of the neighbouring districts, like Sicily, has been represented as a country unci- vilized with regard to society, infested by robbers, inaccessible from mountains, and fitter for the re- sidence of wild beasts than of rational beings. But I must here repeat with gratitude, that in these re- mote and unfrequented tracts we meet with that genuine and cordial hospitality, which is too seldom to be found in more favoured and more populous countries : such as I experienced under the friendly roof of Don Ladislao Mattel ; and such as I shall for ever call to mind with pleasure and grateful remembrance. Tuesday, May 17 . Quitting Avezzano, I di- rected my course through the valley of Cesolino to the little village of Cappelle, and Scurcola, and from thence through the Campi Palentini, to Tag- liacozzo, a long straggling town, built on the right side of a deep ravine or valley, at the extremity of which a copious stream bursts from beneath a lofty mountain, and immediately forms a river. I refreshed myself and horses at a miserable osteria near the entrance of the town. On ascending he hill, a dreary extent of rocky mountains ex- anded itself to my view, and the trees had not yet 37S CLASSICAL TOUR laid aside their wintry garb, but were jiist pushing forth their leaves. Pursuing my ride through a small well-watered plain, I again ascended by a steep and stony road to Rocca del Cerro^ a petty miserable village on the highest point of these mountains, and commanding a partial view of the Fucine Lake. The dreary aspect of the scenes before me awakened regret for those of a more pleasing kind, which I had en- joyed on the borders of that delightful piece of water. I slowly descended to the small village of Colle, near which I noticed some fine remains of the Via V ikna, cornposed of massive stones, as well as the marks of tools in the rock, which was cut away to give passage to the road. My passo was here demanded, in virtue of the baronial privi- leges, or rather extortions. From hence I conti- nued descending, by the side of the river, to Car- soli, an inconsiderable town, built on the declivdty of a hill, overhanging the river, and surmounted by a ruined castle. A letter of recommendation to the Canonico, Don Bernardo Marj, procured me a comfortable lodging, and a cordial reception. Wednesday, May 18. The first object which attracted my atteiftion, on leaving Carsoli, was an, old milliary, near the church of the Carmine. Itj' was copied by Fabretti, when in a more perfect THROUGH ITALY. S79 state ; but at present I could only discover "a single letter and two ciphers. It commemorated the re- paration of the Via Valeria by the Emperor Nerva, and was numbered XXXXI. The Via Valeria, which derived its appellation from the Valerian family, was a continuation of the Via Tiburtina, which led from Rome to Tibur, now Tivoli. At this last place the Via Valeria commenced, and extended to Corjiniutiu The distances of the stations are thus specified in the Itineraries : — Antoninus, Tabula Peutingeriawz, Tiburi . . . . xx. m. p. Carseolos . . xxii. Alba Fucentia xxv. Cerfennia . . xxiii. Corfinio ... xvii. Tiburi Variae viit. Lamnas v. Carsulis ..... x. Alba Marrubio . . . . xnr. Cirfenna . . . . vii. Mons Imeus . . v. Statule Corfinio . . . . vii. The modern distances may be thus computed. From Rome to Tivoli, m. p. 18 ; to Vicovaro, 8 ; to Rio Freddo, 9 ; to Carsoli, 5 ; to Tagliacozzo, 9 i to Avezzauo, 9* 3&0 CLASSICAL TOUR By the aid of modern commentators and tra-^ Tellers I shall now endeavour to ascertain the dif- ferent stations mentioned by Antonine and the Tabulae Peutingeriancej the latter of which is the fullest and most specific. From Tibur, the point where the Via Tiburtina terminated, began, as I have already said, the Via Valeria^ which by Strabo was deemed of sufficient consequence to be classed with the ViaAppiadxA Via Latina. The first station mentioned on this Way, in the Tabulae, is Variae, distant from Tivoli m. p. VIII ; and there is reason to suppose it was situated near the modern town ofVicovaro, or Vicus Varii. The next, in the Tabulae, is lamnas, or, more properly, ad . laminas, distant m. p. v from VARIAE. This station has been placed by the in- telligent Abb6 Chaupy at the Osteria delle Scarped • We next come to the carseolos of Antonine, and the cARSVLis of the Tabulae; which, in the latter, is placed at m. p. x from Laminas^ and on this spot are ruins, which indicate the site of the ancient *Tn my own notes I find the Osteria della Ferrata, menti- oned in this district, the name of which, in some degree, corre- sponds with the ancient appellation, ad Laminas. Is this the Osteria alluded to by the Abb^, under the title of Osteria delle Scarpe? Vol. iii. page 239. THROUGH ITALY. 381 Station of carseoli. We are not, however, to seek for this station on the point occupied hy the modern town of Carsoli, but, according to Holstenius* and Chaupy, in the plain, about a mile beyond the Osteria del Cwvaliere. ‘‘ Ce’st 1^,” says Chaupy, “ qu Holstenius la decouvrit en Mai, 1645, et que je I’ai reconnue, en Octobre, 1766. The next station, found in both the Itinera- ries, is ALBA fvCENSis, already described. The Tabulae alone mention marrvbio, which has also been fixed at St. Benedetto, on the Fucine Lake. Then follows cirfenna, or CERFENNiA-f-, placed by Antonine at m. p. xxiii distant from Alba, and by the Tabulae at xx, namely, xiir from Alba to Marrubio, and vii from thence to Cirfenna. This * Situm et vestigia, diti perquisita, inveni et perspexi. Anno 1645, in umbilico planitie uno circiter mill: ultra di- versorium, II Cavaliere.” — Chaupy, iii. 222. f Muratori, p. Mxxxvm. 1, gives the following inscrip- tion, relating to the Cerfennini C . CATRIO . F . F . VIRO . SPLENDIDO OMNIB . HONORIBVS IN . PATRIA . FVNCTO. CERFENNI NI . AQVEN . ALBEN. PATRONO . AB . ORIGEN. CLASSICAL TOUR 3S^ the Abb6 fixes at Forca Carrosa, a pass infested by robbers. At the farther distance of m. p. v, the station of mons . imevs occurs in the Tabulas ; which the same author supposes to be the moun- tain occupying the space between Guariano and Raiano, from whence the plains of Sulmona are seen to such advantage. In these plains stood the ancient cities of corfinivm and svlmo ; the latter distinguished as the birth-place of Ovid. The site of corfinivm is supposed to be at Pen- tima by the Abb^; who says, p. 238, that the Roman city is now reduced to the simple church of St. Pelino, called Valvarum in the Fasti Ecdesi- astici, and to the petty village of Pentima, about a mile distant. The reticulated walls of the modern castle seem to indicate the position of the ancient citadel ; and as Chaupy observes, le lieii precis ou elle (la Ville) fut situe^, s’annonce par un grand morceau de la Voie Valereene, qui y conserve iin grand nombre de ses anciens tombeaux.” With the true feeling of an antiquary he afterwards adds, “ La barbarie qui emploia ^ la fabrique de FEglisc de St. Pelino, toutes les pierres de Tancien Corfi- nium, qu’elle trouva, en a conserve par ce nioycn quelques inscriptions.” He then recites the in- scriptions which he found; and states, that the monuments of antiquity destroyed for the erection of the church of St. Pelino were nothing, accord- ing to the information he obtained, in comparison THROUGH ITALY, 3SS with those which were swept away in the con- struction of the Chef Iku de J^ordre des Cekstins. Having thus endeavoured, by personal obser- vation, and the information collected from different writers, to ascertain the local situation of the va- rious stations on the Via Valeria, I shall proceed to describe my journey along the line of its course. The plain of Carsoli is extensive, verdant, and well cultivated, and enlivened by numerous vil- lages, scattered on the eminences with which it is surrounded. I diverged from the main road to- wards the right, in order to examine the ruins of the ancient Carsoli ; the site of which is now overspread with vineyards. I noticed, however, a part of the walls, built of huge blocks of stone ; and a portion of the Roman Way, the pavement of which still retains the traces of carriage wheels. I saw-also some fragments of aqueducts, and the relics of a coarse tessellated pavement. I re- gretted the injury done to a fine pedestal, in one of the vineyards. It was ornajnented with a basso relievo, representing a sacrifice, consisting of three figures, and a victim before the altar. On the re- verse was an olive branch ; and on the two other sides w’ere a patera and a vase, or beaker, with a swine sculptured beneath. It had borne an inscrip^ tion, the letters of which were finely engraven, but now reduced to sack. ; so that no indication 384 CLASSICAL TOUR remains to what deity this altar was originally de- dicated. ^ I rejoined the great road, at the Ostcria del Ca- valierei where I found a pedestal, bearing this in- scription, in good presentation : — M . METILIO . SVCCESSO . M . METILL . REPENTINI . PATRONI . COLONTAE . FILIO . PATRONO . ORDINIS . AVGVSTA- LIVM . MARTINOR. COLLEGIVM . DEN- DROPHORVM . CARSIOLANORVM . PA- TRONO OB . MERITA . EIVS L . D . D . D. This is a memorial of gratitude from the Col- lege or Company of Dendrophorij at Carseoli, to Metilius Successus, &c. for his meritorious conduct. One of the titles given to this personage, namely, PATRONVS. ORDINIS . AVGVSTALIVM . MARTINO- RVM is unusual, and not noticed in any of my books of reference ; but the learned and indefati- gable Muratori has given, I think, a rational ex- planation of the word martinorvm, which he reads martianorvm. ‘‘ Nam uti Sodales Au- gustales, Flaviales, Claudiales, Antoniani, &c. &c. ita in honorem Martianse Augustse, sororis Tra- jani, instituti fu^re Sodales Augustales Martiani. P. DXV. 2. A little beyond the Osteria del Camlkre, and THROUGH ITALY. 385 nearly opposite the church of St. Giorgio, a road diverges on the right to Arsuli and Subiaco. Here, also, was the dwerticulum of the Via Valeria^ made by the Emperor Nero ; and on this road, or near it, were the sources of the Aqu(E ClaudicB and MarcicE, which were conveyed by means of aque- ducts to the imperial city. Soon afterwards I reached Rio Freddo, a village situate on an emi- nence, where the contracted mountains form a narrow pass, and the road winds along the decli- vity of a deep valley below. At this point, which is the boundary of the Neapolitan and Papal ter- ritories, a custom-house is erected ; but I neither experienced the trouble nor cupidity which are usual in such establishments. At a short distance from Rio Freddo occurs a steep and rapid descent, called La Spiaggia. Both here, and before, I noticed evident traces of the Via Valeria, particularly at one point, where the rock has been cut away to admit its passage. With this descent, and with the Neapolitan territory, I took my leave of bad roads ; which had lately been rendered worse by a heavy fall of rain for several days successively. Continuing my ride along the valley, by the side of the river, the romantic Convent of St. Co- c c VOL. V. 386 CLASSICAL TOUR simato again greeted my view, with some fine re- mains of the Claudian Aqueduct. From hence I proceeded to Vicovaro, the Varia of the Itineraries, and probably the Valeria of Strabo. It still exhi- bits marks of antiquity in part of the walls facing the south-west, which are built of massive stones, laid in regular order. A row of houses, on the right hand of the Piazza, leading to the cathedral, is erected on the Via Valeria, which serves as a foundation. In the Palazzo Bolognetti I found three inscriptions. No. 1. M . HELVIVS . M . F . CAM . RVFVS. CIVI- CA . PRIM . PIL. BALNEVM MVNICIPIBVS . ET . INCOLTS DEDIT. No. 2. VAL . MAXIMA . MATER DOMNI . PRE- DIA . VAL. DVLCISSIMA . FILIA QVE . VIXIT . ANNIS . XXXVI. MEN . II . D . XII . IN . PRE DIIS . SVIS . MASSE . MAN DELANE . SEP . RETORVM HERCVLES . QVESQ . N . PACE. THROUGH ITALY. 3S7 No. 3. MVNATIA . S . F . F . C . MVNATIVS 3 . L . PAMPHIL IN . AGR . P . XIIX. The inscription, No. 2, was discovered by the Abb6 Chaupy, who has made it the subject of a long dissertation in his third volume, page 248 ; and in his chorographical plate he has given an engraving of the stone itself. It was discovered some years before the Abb^ visited the Convent of S. Cosimato, where it was preserved, and had been made a part of the altar in the chapel of Mount Carmel. The circumstance was, however, remem- bered by a novice of the convent, who gave infor- mation to the Abb6. Great difficulty occurred in the restoration of this inscription ; for the commu- nity regarded the destruction of a consecrated altar as little less than sacrilege. Leave was, however, obtained from the fathers, and two stonemasons soon brought this curiosity to light. But the zeal of the diligent antiquary did not stop here ; for although he had promised to replace the altar as soon as he had examined it, he intreated a further respite, and, on his return to Rome, persuaded the Count Bolognetti, Prince of Vicovaro, to give it a distinguished place in his baronial castle, where it still remains. 388 CLASSICAL TO UK This inscription is certainly obscure in many parts, and the termination, Quiescant in pace, proves it to have been a memorial of the Chris- tian aera. It is just, however, to give the interpre- tation of the discoverer ; though I confess it is less satisfactory than I could wish. “ Valeria Maxima, mater domni, praedia (aut dotibus omnibus praedita), Valeria, dulcissirna filia, quae vixit annis xxxvi. menses n. dies xii. in praediis suis Masse Mandelane, sepulchrum resti- tuit et ornavit, Valerius Maximus Hercules. Qui- escant in pace.” By this interpretation the Abb6 makes the se- venth line to consist chiefly of abbreviations, sep . R . ET . OR. v . M. Sepulchrum restituit et ornavit Valerius Maximus.” There is certainly a point in the original after the word sep. but I could not perceive any other, which I think would have been introduced, had the remainder of the line been abbreviated. On descending the hill from Vicovaro, and nearly opposite the osteria, I observed in a little church four columns, with Ionic capitals, richly wrought ; and another of the same kind lay pros- trate in one of the streets. After dinner I con- THROUGH ITALY. 389 tinned my ride over the Via Valeria to Tivoli ; and at intervals noticed several fragments of the Claudian Aqueduct, a few sepulchral monuments, and some other inconsiderable relics of anti- quity. At Tivoli I took leave of the Valerian Way, which I had followed from Alba thither, and found myself once more lodged within sight of the Sibyll’s Temple. Tib UR, once the most frequented and favou- rite villeggiatura of the ancient Romans, still draws the attention of every foreigner who visits the imperial city. The foaming cataracts of the pr(2ceps Anio, the bold and well-wooded hills, and the majestic remains of antique buildings, will never want attractions for the eye of taste. But the chief interest of this delightful spot is derived from the memory of its former inhabitants. Hither virtue, genius, and taste retired from the noisy and licentious capital to enjoy those tranquil pleasures, which are to be found in the country life alone^ and which were here considerably heightened by the natural situation, and peculiar beauties, of the place. Here royalty laid aside the sceptre and the purple, and exdianged the pomp and flattery of empire for the delights of friendship. Here an 390 CLASSICAL TOUR Augustus condescended to become the guest of his subject Mecaenas, and shared the familiar and un- constrained society of the most celebrated literati, in an age distinguished by superior talents, learn- ing, and refinement. With what rapture does Horace dwell on this scene of rational enjoyment ; — Tibur Argaeo posituin colono Sit mese sedes utinam senectae ! Ode vi. And again : — Me nec taiu patiens Lacedaemon, Nec tarn Larissae percussit campus opimae, Quam domus Albuneae resonantis, Et praeceps Anio, et Tiburni lucus, et uda Mobilibus pomaria rivis. Ode vii. On this favoured spot the poets Horace, Ca- tullus, Martial, and Vopiscus, warbled their harmo- nious notes ; and Brutus, Cassius, Marius, Piso, and Sallust, devoted themselves to contemplation. To the banks of the Anio, and the groves of Tibur, sovereigns, warriors, legislators, philosophers, and poets, alike resorted. Here, also, the captive Sy- THROUGH ITALY. 391 phax deplored his faded honours and desolated territories ; and, at a later period, this placid retreat witnessed the sorrows of the celebrated Queen of Palmyra, Zenobia, who united in her person the distinguished qualities of either sex ; who drew her descent from the royal blood of Egypt, and might have boasted of being the wife and mother of two Roman Emperors. To borrow the language of Petrarch Nel cuor femiiiineo fu tanta fortezza Che col bel viso, con I’armata chionia Fece temer, chi per natura sprezza ; lo pario deir Imperio alto di Roma, Che con armi assalib, benche .all’ estremo Fosse il nostro trionfo ricca soma. The most powerful sovereign of the East, she be- came the terror of Egypt, and of the Roman legi- ons, which she more than once discomfited. She extorted the praise of her enemy, Aurelian, who spoke of her in terms of respect and admiration before the Roman senate. The fields of Persia were the limit of her long and splendid career, and witnessed her fatal reverse of fortune. Led through the streets of Rome as a captive to adorn the tri- umph of her conqueror, her undaunted spirit rose superior to the vicissitudes of her fate. Aurelian generously bestowed on her a retreat, near Tivoli, CLASSICAL TOUR worthy of her distinguished rank ; and here, sur- rounded by her children, she terminated her che- quered, but not inglorious, life. Such were the once renowned inhabitants of these verdant groves. Their sumptuous palaces, their lofty porticos, the splendid scenes of their pleasures and enjoyments, are now no more ! All have yielded to the ravages of time, except the magnificent dwelling ofMecaenas, the friend of the most enlightened sovereigns, the accomplished scholar, and the patron of taste and genius : to his memory that hand, which spares not the works of man, appears to have paid an unusual tribute, and for the gratification of future ages, to have re- spected the remains of the hospitable mansion, once illustrated by his presence. Friday, May 20. Leaving Tivoli, I proceeded to Palestrina, the site of the ancient Pr^neste. The distance is about fifteen miles, the last five lying in the track of the Via Prcenestim, which is in tolerable preservation, and, as usual, accompa- nied with sepulchral monuments*. * The custom of placing the inausolea of the dead along the sides of the roads seems to have universally prevailed I THROUGH ITALY. 393 Pralneste enjoyed a considerable share of celebrity, from its magnificent Temple of Fortune. The whole extent of the modern town exhibits traces of ruins, all of which have been identified with this structure. The most perfect remains now existing may be seen at the Semmario, from whence the beautiful mosaic pavement, trans- ported to the Barberini Palace at Rome, was taken. I was shewn a square niche, ornamented with a Doric frieze, which is said to have contained the altar of the goddess* *. Opposite the Palazzo Bar- berini I noticed the fragment of an ancient inscrip- tion, of which I could only distinguish the letters RESTiT. From the church of St. Pietro there is the most delightful view imaginable, of the sea and the whole circumjacent country. The church contains a fine inscription, and a good picture, by Pietro da Cortona. among the Romans, and originated from the prohibitory law of the twelve tables. In, urbe neve sepelito, neve urito. Va- nity also may have prompted the choice of such public places of interment. * The antiquities, and Temple of Fortune, at Palestrina, are described and illustrated with plates in the two works, intitled, 1. “ Praeneste Antiqua” (Suaresius). 4to. Romae, 1645. ‘i. “ Storia di Palestrina” (Cecconi), 4to. Ascoli, 1756, 394 CLASSICAL TOUR The original city walls arc visible in many places, and were constructed with large irregular blocks of stone. Adjoining the town are two square 7'ecinti, which are supposed to have served the purpose of peschieri, or pescine, for the preser- vation of fish. I found some antique inscriptions in the houses of the Cecconi and Petrini families, and others dispersed about the town. The various ruins, walls, &c. exhibited such different modes of construction, that I imagine the place must have undergone many successive changes and repara- tions. I noticed the fragment of a pedestal lying in the street, adorned at the angles with four winged figures. This the Abb4 Chaiipy conjec- tures to have been an altar, dedicated to the god- dess Fortune. Saturday, May 2 1 , 1 79 1 . I quitted Palestrina, after too short a stay, and too cursory a review of its interesting remains. I intended to follow the course of the Via Pr^nestina to Rome, but by mistake fell into that of the Via Labicanay which forms the modern road. This ancient causeway exists for many miles in a perfect state of preser- vatioji, and uninjured by the wear of so many cen- turies. I passed to the right of Colonna, a place considered as occupying the site of Labicum ; which is supposed to have given its name to the THROUGH ITALY. 395 Via Lahicam^ and on which many treatises hare been written. I continued on this ancient road till I reached the gates of Rome, but found it very barren of antiquities. At Torre Pignatara is the Mausoleum of Helena, the mother of Constantine. I entered Rome by the Porta Maggiore. END OF VOL. I. Printed bp T, Miller, Noble Street, Chenpside,