PRACTICAL GUIDI 
 
 Yellowstone National Park 
 
 CONTAINING 
 
 
 ILLUSTRATIONS, MAPS, DISTANCES, ALTITUDES, 
 AND GEYSER TIME TABLES. 
 
 BY 
 
 A. B. GUPTILL. 
 
 ILLUSTRATED AND PUBLISHED BY 
 
 F. Jay Haynes & Bro., 
 
 Official Photographers of the Northern Pacific Railroad, 
 No. 392 Jackson Street, 
 
 ST. PAUL, MINN. 
 
Copyrighted, 1890, 
 
 BY 
 
 F. JAY HAYNES & BRO., 
 
 St. Paul, Minn. 
 
 Pioneer Press Company. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Yellowstone National Park, 7, 8 
 
 Practical Information, 9, 10 
 
 Livingston, Mont., to Mammoth Hot Springs, . 10-14 
 
 Gate of the Mountains — Paradise Valley — Emigrant Peak — 
 
 “Yankee Jim’’ Canyon — Cinnabar Mountain — Ride to Hot 
 Springs — Boiling River. 
 
 Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel, 14 
 
 Camp Sheridan, 15 
 
 Rules and Regulations of the Park, .... 16, 17 
 
 Mammoth Hot Springs, 18-24 
 
 Description — McCartney’s Cave — Liberty Cap — Devil’s 
 Thumb — Minerva Terrace — Jupiter Terrace — Pulpit Ter- 
 race — Cupid’s Cave — Narrow Gauge Terrace — Orange Gey- 
 ser — Devil’s Kitchen — Bath Lake. 
 
 Side Trips from Mammoth Hot Springs, . . . 25-29 
 
 Middle Gardiner Falls — Bunsen’s Peak — Mt. Evarts — East 
 Gardiner Falls — Yancey’s — Tower Falls — Petrified Trees. 
 
 Tour of the Park, 31-107 
 
 Golden Gate and Rustic Falls, 31 
 
 Swan Lake Basin, 32 
 
 Gallatin Mountains — Bell’s Peak — Quadrant Mountain — Mt. 
 
 Holmes — Electric Peak — Indian and Obsidian Creeks. 
 
 Obsidian Cliff, 32-34 
 
 Beaver Lake, and Drive to Norris, .... 34-36 
 
 Road from Norris Basin to Falls and Canyon, 36 
 
 Virginia Cascades and “ Bend in the Road.” 
 
 Norris Geyser Basin, 37-42 
 
 Steam Vent — Minute Man — Black Growler — Mud Geyser — 
 
 Emerald Pool — New Crater — Monarch Geyser— Gibbon Paint 
 Pots. 
 
 Gibbon Canyon and Falls, 42-45 
 
 Mt. Schurz — Monument Geyser Basin — Beryl Spring — View 
 of the“Tetons” — Beaver Colony. 
 
 Lower Geyser Basin, 46-50 
 
 Hotel — Fountain Geyser — Mammoth Paint Pots — Great 
 Fountain Geyser. 
 
 3 
 
4 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Midway Geyser Basin, 50-55 
 
 Excelsior Geyser — Turquois Spring — Prismatic Lake. 
 
 Upper Geyser Basin, 57-80 
 
 Old Faithful — Bee Hive — Giantess— Lion, Lioness, Cubs — 
 
 Sawmill Group — Grand and Turban — Beauty Spring --Eco- 
 nomic — Giant — Oblong — Grotto — Riverside — Fan and Mor- 
 tar-Splendid — White Pyramid — Punch Bowl — Black Sand 
 Basin — Specimen Lake — Castle Geyser and Well — Morning 
 Glory Spring — Artemisia Spring— Biscuit Basin —Sapphire 
 Pool — Soda Geyser — Black Pearl — Silver Globe. 
 
 Geyser Time Table, 81 
 
 Hayden Valley Road, 82-84 
 
 Lower Basin to Falls and Canyon, via Mary's Mountain, Mary’s 
 Lake, Alum Creek and Hayden Valley. 
 
 Upper Geyser Basin to Yellowstone Lake (via 
 
 Shoshone Lake and Geyser Basin), . . . 85-90 
 
 Kepler’s Cascades — Lone Star Geyser — Continental Divide — 
 
 Shoshone Geysers and Hot Springs — Union Geyser — Sho- 
 shone Lake — Snake, or Lewis River — Road to Thumb Bay 
 (Yellowstone Lake). 
 
 Yellowstone Lake and Vicinity, 92-94 
 
 Thumb Bay and Hot Springs — Paint Pots — Fishing Cone — 
 
 “Outlet” — Natural Bridge — Hoodoo Region. 
 
 Yellowstone Lake to Falls and Canyon, . . 95, 96 
 
 Mud Geysers — Mud Caldron — Nez Perces’ Ford — Sulphur 
 Mountain and Springs. 
 
 Upper Falls of the Yellowstone, 98 
 
 Cascade Falls and Grotto Pool, 98 
 
 Great Falls and Grand Canyon, 99-107 
 
 Brink of Falls — Point Lookout — Artists’ Point — Red Rock — 
 Inspiration Point — Hot Springs — Eagle’s Nest. 
 
 Mount Washburn, 108-110 
 
 Park in Midwinter, 112-117 
 
 Fauna and Flora 118, 119 
 
 Fish and Fishing, 119, 120 
 
 Table of Distances 121 
 
 Elevations, 121 
 
 Meteorological Observations, 122 
 
ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Great Falls of the Yellowstone, Frontispiece 
 
 Liberty Cap and Hotel, 13 
 
 Minerva Terrace, Mammoth Hot Springs, .... 22 
 
 Tower Falls, 28 
 
 East Entrance to Golden Gate, 30 
 
 Obsidian Cliff, 33 
 
 Virginia Cascades, 35 
 
 Minute Geyser, Norris Basin, 38 
 
 Mammoth Paint Pots, 49 
 
 Excelsior Geyser, Firehole River, 51 
 
 Map of the Upper Geyser Basin, 56 
 
 Old Faithful Geyser, 60 
 
 Giant Geyser, 67 
 
 Crater of Oblong Geyser, 69 
 
 Splendid Geyser, 72 
 
 Castle, Bee Hive and Old Faithful Geysers, .... 76 
 
 Sapphire Pool, Biscuit Basin, 79 
 
 Hayden Valley, Between Lake and Falls, 83 
 
 Lone Star Geyser, 86 
 
 Shoshone Lake, 88 
 
 Yellowstone Lake, Hot Spring Cone, 91 
 
 Rapids Above Upper Falls, 97 
 
 Point Lookout and Great Falls, joo 
 
 Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone, 104 
 
 Snowshoe Party Passing Obsidian Cliff, in 
 
 Foliage Near Geysers in Winter, 114 
 
 Great Falls of Yellowstone in Winter, 116 
 
 Map of Yellowstone Park, Third Page Cover 
 
 5 
 
QREAT FAL^S OF THE YELLOWSTONE, 360 pKET. 
 
^ellQv^sforje- F)<af 
 
 The Rocky Mountains, extending many hundred 
 miles north and south through the western part of the 
 United States, are famous for their attractions to trav- 
 elers seeking health, pleasure or recreation. In North- 
 western Wyoming, in the midst of the Rockies, is 
 located Yellowstone Park. In 1872, by act of Congress, 
 this interesting locality was “set apart as a national 
 resort and pleasure ground for the enjoyment of the 
 people.” From year to year appropriations are made 
 for its maintenance, improvement and protection. The 
 reservation embraces an area of 3,575 square miles, 
 being 55 miles east and west by 65 miles north and 
 south, chiefly in Wyoming, but overlapping to a small 
 extent the territorial boundaries of Montana on the 
 north and Idaho on the west. No valley within its 
 boundary has an elevation less than 6,000 feet, while the 
 surrounding snow-clad peaks have an altitude of 12,000 
 to 14,000 feet above sea level. Efforts are being made 
 to induce Congress to enlarge the Park 20 miles on 
 the east and 20 miles on the south, thereby not only 
 embracing the summer haunts of the few remaining 
 species of American game that inhabit the Park in win- 
 ter, but protecting the forests at the headwaters of the 
 largest rivers in the United States, the Snake River, a 
 branch of the Columbia, and the Yellowstone, which 
 
 7 
 
8 
 
 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 flows into the Missouri. No other portion of the globe 
 has so great a variety of natural wonders at once so con- 
 centrated and accessible. The railway brings you to the 
 Park boundary, and throughout the reserve the Govern- 
 ment has constructed substantial wagon roads, leading to 
 all objects of interest. Hotels are located in various 
 parts of the Park convenient for travelers. 
 
 The wonders in this region are the geysers, which 
 throw columns of hot water 50 to 300 feet in the air, 
 playing at intervals of one minute to every fourteen days. 
 The most remarkable is Old Faithful, having an eruption 
 every hour, throwing a three-foot column of hot water 
 150 feet high, and located within a few hundred feet of 
 the hotel in the Upper Geyser Basin. Excelsior Geyser, 
 the largest in the world, throws a column of hot water 
 50 feet in diameter 250 to 300 feet high several times a 
 day. Fifty other large and interesting geysers, paint 
 pots, pools and boiling springs are found in the geyser 
 basins. Beautiful terrace-building hot springs, colored 
 beyond description, occupying over 170 acres of ground, 
 form the attractions at the entrance to the Park. Yellow- 
 stone Lake, 12 x 20 miles in size, is the largest body of 
 water in America at this altitude, — 8,000 feet. The 
 Grand Canyon and Upper and Lower Falls surpass 
 anything of the kind on the continent — 10 miles of 
 canyon averaging 1,500 feet in depth, pronounced by 
 travelers to be the most brilliantly colored landscape in 
 existence. Mountains of volcanic glass, forests of petri- 
 factions, valleys, cataracts and canyons without number, 
 jnake this the wonderland of the world, 
 
PRACTICAL INFORMATION, 
 
 9 
 
 PRACTICAL INFORMATION. 
 
 EXPENSE OF THE TRIP. WHEN TO VISIT. HOW TO 
 REACH THE PARK. 
 
 At many eastern and western points coupon tickets 
 can be purchased which include rail and stage transpor- 
 tation to and through the Park, also sleeping and dining 
 car accommodations, and board at the various hotels 
 within the Park. These coupon tickets include all trav- 
 eling expenses, and are used by nearly all tourists. 
 Raymond & Whitcomb excursions and Cook’s tours 
 embrace all the above privileges, being in charge of 
 well-informed conductors, and are liberally patronized. 
 Coupon books can be purchased at St. Paul, Minneapo- 
 lis, Duluth, Tacoma, Seattle or Portland, including all 
 necessary expense to the Park and return for $110. 
 From Livingston, Mont., and return for $40. Five 
 days are required to visit all prominent places within the 
 Park, which are provided for in the coupon tickets. 
 Parties desiring to prolong their stay can procure re- 
 duced rates at the hotels after the expiration of the ticket, 
 the regular rate being $4 per day. The railway part of 
 the ticket is good until October 1st. Credit letters are 
 issued for any extra accommodations the tourists may 
 desire while south of the Mammoth Hot Springs, where 
 valuables may be safely deposited until their return. 
 Camping parties can secure complete outfits at the Mam- 
 moth Hot Springs, such as guides, tents, provisions, 
 cooks, saddle and pack horses, etc. The expense of a 
 party of three camping will be about $20 per day; they 
 can visit a few remote places in the Park not included in 
 the regular tour, and these trips are especially recom- 
 mended for gentlemen desiring a few weeks’ “ roughing 
 
IO 
 
 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK, 
 
 it.” August and September are the best months for 
 camping, there being little choice in the time for the 
 regular tour, except that in June and September you 
 escape the rush of July and August. 
 
 The Hotels of the Park, seven in number, Mam- 
 moth Hot Springs, Norris Geyser, Lower Geyser, Up- 
 per Geyser, Shoshone Lake, Yellowstone Lake and 
 Grand Canyon, are under one management, and are lo- 
 cated at convenient distances throughout the Park, in 
 close proximity to the various objects of interest. 
 
 LIVINGSTON, MONT., TO MAMMOTH HOT 
 SPRINGS. 
 
 Livingston, Mont., on the main line of the 
 Northern Pacific Railroad, is about midway between St. 
 Paul and the Pacific Coast; the Park Branch Railroad 
 is constructed from Livingston, 51 miles south, to the 
 Park boundary, following the valley of the Yellowstone 
 the entire distance. Livingston, an enterprising Mon- 
 tana city, is located at the base of the Snowy and Belt 
 range, a spur of the Rocky Mountains. Three miles 
 from Livingston the road passes through the first can- 
 yon of the Yellowstone, or Gate of the Mountains, 
 forming a natural entrance into the Upper Yellowstone 
 Valley. The canyon is over one mile long, just wide 
 enough to comfortably admit of the road and river, the 
 mountain walls rising some 2,000 feet perpendicularly on 
 either side. Passing through the first canyon, Paradise 
 Valley is immediately entered, which extends from the 
 mouth of the canyon some 30 miles up the river, and is 
 from 7 to 12 miles wide. This valley has been settled 
 
LIVINGSTON, MONT., TO MAMMOTH HOT SPRINGS. 
 
 II 
 
 by ranchmen for twenty-five years, being exceedingly 
 fertile, easily irrigated, and especially adapted to stock 
 raising. On the east side of the valley, the entire dis- 
 tance, a very picturesque mountain range is seen, con- 
 stantly changing as the train moves south; the hills on 
 the west are not as abrupt, but are very interesting from a 
 geological point of view. Emigrant Peak, elevation 
 10,629, rising some 6,000 feet above the valley, is a 
 prominent mountain located near the south end of Para- 
 dise Valley. Emigrant Gulch, a once noted placer min- 
 ing field, is still producing the precious metal. Agricul- 
 tural pursuits are not followed further up the Yellowstone 
 than Paradise Valley — stock raising and mining being 
 the chief industries above this altitude. 
 
 The Second, or Yankee Jim, Canyon. — Forty 
 miles from Livingston the road passes through the 
 second, or Yankee Jim, canyon of the Yellowstone. 
 Visitors from the north are obliged to pass through the 
 second canyon. For several years prior to the build- 
 ing of the railroad an enterprising individual, named 
 “ Yankee Jim,” having constructed a wagon road through 
 the canyon at quite an expense, enjoyed a lucrative busi- 
 ness in collecting toll from each visitor to the Park. 
 Yankee Jim is still located at the south end of the can- 
 yon, having many guests during the tourist season, who 
 find here the best of trout and grayling fishing, equal to 
 any of the many excellent fishing stations along the 
 Yellowstone. The second canyon is far more picturesque 
 than the first, the mountain walls rising higher, and the 
 gorge, within which the river is compressed, is scarcely a 
 hundred feet wide. An excellent view can be had from 
 the rear platform of the cars, 
 
12 
 
 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 Cinnabar, Mont., the terminus of the Park 
 Branch Railroad, 51 miles south from Livingston, de- 
 rives its name from Cinnabar Mountain, a conspicuous 
 landmark on the Upper Yellowstone. As the train 
 passes along its base, from the car window is plainly 
 seen the Devil’s Slide, consisting of two walls of trap- 
 rock some 30 feet apart, extending up the mountain 
 nearly 2,000 feet, embracing a bright reddish-colored 
 mineral resembling cinnabar. From the station to the 
 Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel, seven miles distant, con- 
 veyances consisting of the six-horse tallyho coach, the 
 concord, hacks, carriages and surreys are used. The 
 equipment for this transfer is equal to any found at 
 eastern or western resorts. The ride is especially pleas- 
 ant contrasted with the necessary railway journey to 
 reach this region. The character of the mountainous 
 country and the necessity of ascending nearly 2,000 feet 
 in so short a distance render it impracticable for a railroad 
 to be constructed further south. The elevation of the 
 Mammoth Hot Springs, 6,387 feet, is nearly 2,000 feet 
 higher than Cinnabar. The entrance to the Park is near 
 the mouth of the Gardiner River, the confluence of the 
 Gardiner and Yellowstone rivers being on the northern 
 boundary. The carriage road is along the Gardiner 
 River, a characteristic mountain stream, clear and rapid, 
 and a favorite resort for the angler. Within two miles 
 of the Mammoth Hot Springs the road leaves the river 
 for the ascent of the mountain. This part of the journey 
 is most tedious, the hotel being some 800 feet above the 
 Gardiner; however, the magnificent mountain scen- 
 ery attracts the traveler, and is especially fine when seen 
 from the top of a tallyho. 
 
14 
 
 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 Boiling River empties into Gardiner River a few 
 hundred feet above the second crossing; it is the congre- 
 gation of all the waters from the Mammoth Hot Springs, 
 and is famous from the fact that fish may be caught in 
 the cold stream and cooked in the hot, without changing 
 your position. 
 
 Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel, the largest hotel 
 in the Park, 400 feet long, has accommodations for 350 
 guests. Hot water from the Mammoth Hot Springs is 
 conducted to the house, while a more distant cold moun- 
 tain stream affords an ample supply throughout, and an 
 effective fire protection. The hotel is also supplied with 
 incandescent lights and all modern improvements. A 
 Western Union telegraph office is located in the house, 
 and the telephone connects with all the hotels through- 
 out the Park. The hotel is located on a plateau some 
 800 feet above Gardiner River, affording a commanding 
 view from its large verandas. The Mammoth Hot 
 Springs, with their beautifully colored terraces, are but a 
 short distance away. Those who do not visit the 
 Springs upon going into the Park improve the oppor- 
 tunity when returning, as ample time is given. Trunks 
 and baggage are generally brought to the Mammoth Hot 
 Springs Hotel. Carriages carrying three, five or seven 
 persons are used south of the Hot Springs, and the first 
 evening is employed in getting a congenial party to- 
 gether. Only the necessary baggage is carried through 
 the Park, as the light conveyances necessary for a com- 
 fortable ride will not admit of any other than hand bag- 
 gage. The driver acts as guide for the party, and the small 
 perquisite he generally receives for such services is well 
 invested. Many of the drivers have been in the Park 
 
CAMP SHERIDAN. 
 
 15 
 
 five or six years, and through it several hundred times. 
 The remarkable record of the stage company in convey- 
 ing over 40,000 tourists without a single accident is 
 commendable. The drivers, though generally typical 
 western men, are gentlemen. 
 
 Camp Sheridan. — At the Mammoth Hot Springs is 
 stationed a company of United States cavalry, the com 
 manding officer being superintendent of the Park. During 
 the summer months cantonments are scattered throughout 
 the Park, consisting of a non-commissioned officer and 
 two to four cavalrymen; their duties being to protect the 
 various objects of interest from vandalism, see that no 
 specimens are removed, that no hunters enter the Park, 
 and to prevent the spreading of forest fires, generally 
 originating from camping parties. The Park is entirely 
 free from questionable characters, owing to the rigid en- 
 forcement of the orders of the commanding officer, his 
 policy being to allow no one in the Park unless there for 
 business or pleasure. Several scouts are employed by 
 the Government, who roam over the entire area; they 
 look after the game chiefly, their occupation being simi- 
 lar to that of a detective; they do not travel on the 
 regular roads, and are liable to come upon the violator 
 of the regulations at any moment. Much credit is due 
 the military and scouts for their efficient efforts in pro- 
 tecting the Park. 
 
i6 
 
 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 RULES AND REGULATIONS OF THE YELLOW- 
 STONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 Department of the Interior, 
 
 Washington, July i, 1889. 
 
 1. It is forbidden to remove or injure the sediments 
 or incrustations around the geysers, hot springs or steam 
 vents; or to deface the same by written inscriptions or 
 otherwise; or to throw any substance into the springs or 
 geyser vents; or to injure or disturb in any manner any 
 of the mineral deposits, natural curiosities or wonders 
 within the Park. 
 
 2. It is forbidden to ride or drive upon any of the 
 geyser or hot spring formations, or to turn loose stock 
 to graze in their vicinity. 
 
 3. It is forbidden to cut or injure any growing 
 timber. Camping parties will be allowed to use dead or 
 fallen timber for fuel. 
 
 4. Fires should be lighted only when necessary and 
 completely extinguished when not longer required. The 
 utmost care should be exercised at all times to avoid 
 setting fire to the timber and grass. 
 
 5. Hunting, capturing, injuring or killing any bird 
 or animal within the Park is prohibited. The outfits of 
 persons found hunting or in possession of game killed in 
 the Park will be subject to seizure and confiscation. 
 
 6. Fishing with nets, seines, traps, or by the use of 
 drugs or explosives, or in any other way than with hook 
 and line, is prohibited. Fishing for purposes of mer- 
 chandise or profit is forbidden by law. 
 
 7. No person will be permitted to reside perma- 
 nently or to engage in any business in the Park without 
 
RULES And regulations of the park. 
 
 1 7 
 
 permission in writing from the Department of the In- 
 terior. The superintendent may grant authority to com- 
 petent persons to act as guides and revoke the same at 
 his discretion. 
 
 8. No drinking saloon or bar-room will be permitted 
 within the limits of the Park. 
 
 9. Private notices or advertisements shall not be 
 posted nor displayed within the Park, except such as 
 may be necessary for the convenience and guidance of 
 the public upon buildings upon leased ground. 
 
 10. Persons who render themselves obnoxious by 
 disorderly conduct or bad behavior, or who violate any 
 of the foregoing rules, will be summarily removed from 
 the Park under authority of the statute setting apart the 
 Park “as a pleasuring ground for the people,” and pro- 
 viding that it “shall be under the exclusive control of 
 the secretary of the interior, whose duty it shall be to 
 make and publish such rules and regulations as he shall 
 deem necessary or proper,” and who “generally shall 
 be authorized to take all such measures as shall be 
 necessary or proper to fully carry out the object and pur- 
 poses of this act.” 
 
 John W. Noble, 
 
 Secretary of the Interior. 
 
i8 
 
 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 MAMMOTH HOT SPRINGS. 
 
 The quite recent volcanic eruptions in New Zealand 
 which destroyed the famous pink terraces of Rotoma- 
 hana leaves the Mammoth Hot Springs of Yellowstone 
 Park without a rival as the most remarkable develop- 
 ment of thermal action to be found in the world — occupy- 
 ing over 170 acres, with 13 distinct terraces and over 50 
 active springs. Dr. Hayden, in his report for 1871, de- 
 scribes these springs as follows: “ The wonderful trans- 
 parency of the water surpasses anything of the kind I 
 have ever seen in any other portion of the world. The 
 sky, with the smallest cloud that flits across it, is re- 
 flected in its limpid depths, and the ultramarine colors, 
 more vivid than the sea, are greatly heightened by the 
 constant, gentle vibrations. One can look down into 
 the clear depths and see with perfect distinctness the 
 minutest ornament on the inner sides of the basins; and 
 the exquisite beauty of the coloring and infinite variety 
 of form baffle any attempt to portray them either with 
 pen or brush. And then, too, around the borders of 
 these springs, especially those of rather low temperature, 
 and on the sides and bottoms of the numerous little 
 channels of the streams that flow into these springs, 
 there is a striking variety of the most vivid colors. I 
 can only compare them to our most brilliant aniline 
 dyes — various shades of red, from the brightest scarlet 
 to a bright rose tint; also, yellow, from deep bright sul- 
 phur through all the shades to light cream color. There 
 are also various shades of green from the peculiar vege- 
 tation. These springs are also filled with minute vege- 
 table forms, which, under the microscope, prove to be 
 
MAMMOTH HOT SPRINGS. 
 
 19 
 
 diatoms, among which Dr. Billings describes palmella 
 and oscillara. There are also in the little streams that 
 flow from the boiling springs great quantities of a 
 fibrous, silky substance, apparently vegetable, which 
 vibrates at the slightest movement of the water, and has 
 the appearance of the finest quality of cashmere wool. 
 When the waters are still these silken masses become 
 incrusted with lime, the delicate vegetable threads dis- 
 appear, and a fibrous, spongy mass remains like delicate 
 snow-white coral.” 
 
 The present active portion of the Mammoth Hot 
 Springs is in a small valley on the mountain side, nearly 
 two miles from Gardiner River, and from 1,000 to 1,200 
 feet higher than the surface of the same. Evidence of 
 ancient hot water deposit is seen over the entire expanse 
 between the now active portion and the river. The over- 
 flow from the springs disappears at the base of each 
 terrace and finds its way through subterranean passages 
 underneath the hotel plateau — via Boiling River — into 
 the Gardiner, the former having only 200 feet surface ex- 
 posure above its confluence with the latter river. The 
 numerous openings and caves visible from the hotel 
 veranda are extinct hot spring vents. 
 
 McCartney’s Cave. — About 500 feet distant from 
 the hotel may be seen a conspicuous fence surrounding 
 three sides of what is known as McCartney’s Cave. 
 This is an irregular opening in the level surface of the 
 plateau some four feet in diameter; it is visited by many 
 for the purpose of examining the ancient hot water 
 stratified deposits plainly indicated throughout the cave. 
 Called a cave, it is simply the crater of an extinct gey- 
 ser or hot spring. By means of a ladder one can descend 
 
20 
 
 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 vertically some 30 feet to the first level; thence 20 feet on 
 an incline to the bottom of this chamber with perfect 
 safety. The venturesome may, by means of a rope and 
 light, continue explorations 100 feet further without, or- 
 dinarily, experiencing much discomfort from the carbonic 
 acid gas not perceptible in the first chamber. Far 
 beneath, in a subterranean chamber, water can be dis- 
 tinctly heard by the rope-supported tourist; but the hot 
 vapors and gases constantly arising discourage further 
 investigation, and stimulate an earnest desire to ascend 
 to the surface. The stratified deposits seen on the sides 
 of the cave are of varied thickness, indicating that they 
 were greater during some years than others. This cave 
 was discovered by a Mr. McCartney, who located in 
 the vicinity in 1869, hoping to claim the locality as a 
 homestead; his cabin still standing in the gulch near 
 Liberty Cap. In the winter of 1881 there was a heavy 
 fall of snow, sufficient to cover many of the openings 
 on the plateau. The following spring Mr. McCartney 
 noticed a large pair of antlers protruding, evidently 
 from the ground; investigating, he concluded that the 
 unfortunate elk had broken through the crust of snow, 
 and, falling into the cave, had died, suspended by his 
 horns, in the opening. 
 
 Viewing the Terraces. — It requires fully two hours 
 to leisurely visit all the springs; the high altitude, nearly 
 7,000 feet above the sea, will not admit of a rapid in- 
 spection. Provide yourself with a walking stick, um- 
 brella and a pair of smoked or blue glasses; the reflection 
 from the water and white formation on a sunny day is 
 painful to many. Select, if possible, early morning or 
 afternoon, as the heat is intense in midday; upon 
 
MAMMOTH HOT SPRINGS. 
 
 21 
 
 cloudy days the reflection, of course, is not noticeable, 
 nor is the coloring of the springs as brilliant. The bell 
 boys of the hotel act as guides over the formation; how- 
 ever, it is not absolutely necessary to have a guide, as the 
 paths are easily followed and the hotel and valley are 
 always in sight. 
 
 Liberty Cap, an extinct hot spring or geyser cone, 
 standing at the foot of Terrace Mountain, near the road, 
 is 52 feet high and 20 feet in diameter at its base. It is 
 formed of overlapping layers of deposit, evidently hav- 
 ing been built up by the overflow of water through the 
 orifice in the top. Scientists have been unable to decide 
 whether it was .built up independently, or formed by the 
 action of the elements wearing away the soft material 
 surrounding it. 
 
 The Devil’s Thumb, a cone of similar structure, 
 but smaller, is located some 200 feet west of Liberty 
 Cap, partially imbedded in the hillside. The path lead- 
 ing to the formation past the Devil’s Thumb is generally 
 taken when returning, the one for the ascent branching 
 off the main road some 200 yards south of Liberty Cap. 
 
 Minerva Terrace is a mass of deposit 40 feet in 
 height, covering an area of nearly three-fourths of an 
 acre, with a hot spring on the summit some 20 feet in 
 diameter, the temperature of which is, at the edge, 154 
 degrees Fahrenheit. The constant changes of the over- 
 flow make it impossible to predict, a season in advance, 
 which will be the active side of the terrace. During 
 1889 most of the water flowed over the west side, with 
 every indication that it was working back to the east side, 
 which, when active, presents the better appearance. 
 This change is accounted for by the rapid deposition 
 
22 
 
 MINERVA TERRACE, MAMMOTH HOT SPRINGS. 
 
MAMMOTH HOT SPRINGS. 
 
 23 
 
 forcing the water eventually over the entire surface. The 
 amount of water is very small compared with the amount 
 of deposit, which, under favorable circumstances, is about 
 one-sixteenth of an inch in four days. Articles of iron, 
 glass, or any hard substance placed where the water can 
 run over them, are soon coated with a crystal white deposit. 
 A series of basins or pools fringed with stalactitic masses 
 line the east side of the terrace, and, when active, present 
 the most delicate coloring, from the lightest cream at 
 the top to the deepest shades of red at the base, the pre- 
 dominating color being bright orange; each pool or basin 
 is filled with transparent blue water. From an elevation 
 20 feet high, immediately back of the terrace, is an ex- 
 cellent position to obtain the best view of the interior 
 of the spring. This terrace is about 78 feet above the 
 level at the base of Liberty Cap, while the main portion 
 of the hot springs are on the mound 90 feet higher. 
 
 Jupiter Terrace. — The spring overflowing this 
 terrace is the largest on the “formation,” being nearly 
 100 feet in diameter, while the terrace itself covers an 
 area of five acres. The various paths leading through- 
 out offer an excellent opportunity of inspecting the deli- 
 cate form and coloring characteristic of these wonders. 
 East of the spring, on the slopes leading down from the 
 edge of the terrace, are some of the handsomest basins to 
 be found in this locality; their peculiar shape suggests the 
 very appropriate name “Pulpit” Terrace. From the 
 prominence west of Jupiter Terrace, under which is lo- 
 cated Cupid’s Cave, an excellent general view may be had. 
 The path leading west of Cupid’s Cave passes along the 
 summit of Narrow Gauge Terrace, which terminates at the 
 hill, where the main path leading to the hotel is intersected, 
 
24 
 
 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 Narrow Gauge Terrace is a fissure ridge 300 feet 
 long, filled with numerous miniature geysers and springs 
 which deposit the most brilliant coloring. 
 
 Orange Geyser, Devil’s Kitchen and Bath 
 Lake, on the next terrace above Narrow Gauge, are well 
 worth the visit if one has the time and inclination. 
 
SIDE TRIPS FROM MAMMOTH HOT SPRINGS, 
 
 25 
 
 SIDE TRIPS FROM THE MAMMOTH 
 HOT SPRINGS. 
 
 Middle Gardiner Falls and Bunsen’s Peak. — 
 
 Surrounding the Mammoth Hot Springs, and not on the 
 main traveled road, are many interesting places that can 
 be visited by ladies and gentlemen fond of horseback 
 riding. The Middle Gardiner Falls trip is probably the 
 most interesting. The trail leaves the Golden Gate road 
 about half a mile beyond Camp Sheridan, passing along 
 the west side of the Government inclosure to the West 
 Gardiner River. For excellent trout fishing follow down 
 the West Gardiner to the main stream and from there 
 up through the canyon (which can only be reached by 
 following the bed of the river). The trail to the falls 
 and canyon crosses the West Gardiner and passes over 
 the eastern slope of Bunsen’s Peak to Observation Point, 
 which is 1 , 200 to 1 , 500 feet above the river. The walls of 
 the canyon are nearly perpendicular, especially on the 
 east side, and resemble more nearly the Grand Canyon 
 of the Yellowstone than any other place in the Park. 
 The total drop of the falls is 300 feet, the first 100 feet 
 being perpendicular; the trail continues around the slope 
 of Bunsen’s Peak, intersecting the main road at Golden 
 Gate. The comparatively easy road around the moun- 
 tain, though slightly longer, is preferable to returning 
 over the trail just followed. The ascent to Bunsen’s 
 Peak is easily made from the south side; the view from 
 its summit is grand and impressive. To the south the 
 Teton range, forming the boundary between Idaho and 
 Wyoming, though 100 miles distant, can be plainly seen 
 on a clear day; the magnificent Gallatin range being to 
 
26 
 
 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 the west, while Electric Peak, Hot Spring Valley and 
 the Yellowstone range occupy the north and east. No 
 better point can be found in this portion of the Park to 
 study the geography of the country. From the west 
 entrance of Golden Gate you have the choice of two 
 routes to the hotel — the regular carriage road, and the 
 old road, which is along the west side of Terrace Moun- 
 tain, crossing the same through the pass called Snow 
 Gate, thence down over the formations to the hotel. 
 The entire distance of this trip is about eight miles, and 
 can be easily accomplished in half a day. If the ascent 
 of Bunsen’s Peak is made it will be necessary to start in 
 the forenoon and lunch at Gardiner Falls. 
 
 Mt. Evarts and East Gardiner Falls. — The gi- 
 gantic wall rising some 2,000 feet above Gardiner River 
 is the west face of a broad and triangular mountain 
 comprising an area of 20 square miles, known as Mt. 
 Evarts, which name has been attached to it since 1870. 
 The story of Mr. Evarts’ adventure and sufferings is 
 well known, and the fact that his rescue from a horrible 
 death took place in a little valley just back of the summit 
 of this mountain makes the name more than usually 
 appropriate. Mr. Evarts was a member of the Langford 
 party who explored the Park in 1870. While this party 
 were in camp at Yellowstone Lake, some 50 miles dis- 
 tant, Mr. Evarts decided to leave the party and return 
 to Bozeman. Being positive that he could reach his 
 destination without the assistance of a guide, he was 
 allowed to depart mounted on a horse with a pack horse 
 to carry his provisions and camp equipage. Overtaken by 
 a storm, he became bewildered and while searching for 
 evidence of a trail lost his eye-glasses and was unable tQ 
 
SIDE TRIPS FROM MAMMOTH HOT SPRINGS. 
 
 27 
 
 return to his horses. For three weeks he wandered over 
 the country and was found by scout Barronette upon this 
 mountain in a very precarious condition. Mr. Evarts, 
 however, fully recovered from his thrilling experience 
 and privation. 
 
 The wagon road from Mammoth Hot Springs to Cooke 
 City, a mining camp just outside the northeast corner of 
 the Park, passes by East Gardiner Falls, which are 
 nearly on a level with the eastern slope of Mt. Evarts; 
 it is possible to ride a horse to the edge of the moun- 
 tain overlooking Hot Spring Valley, which commands 
 one of the finest views of this locality. Mt. Evarts is 
 especially adapted as a summer range for game, and it is 
 not uncommon to see elk, antelope and big horn sheep 
 while on the mountain. East Gardiner Falls are com- 
 posed of two cascades, the upper one having a drop of 
 nearly 50 feet, while the lower falls are more broken and 
 have a total drop of about 80 feet; the two being a short 
 distance apart. An excellent view of Gardiner Can- 
 yon and the Hot Springs in the distance may be had 
 from the ledge near the lower falls. The East Gardiner 
 Falls are five miles from the hotel; the summit of Mt. 
 Evarts overlooking the Hot Springs a mile and a half 
 further. Parties on horseback can cross over Mt. Evarts, 
 connecting with the Yellowstone trail which intersects 
 the road from Cinnabar to the Hot Springs near Gardiner 
 City. Excellent fishing may be found in the Yellowstone 
 River near the mouth of Black Tail Deer Creek, which 
 crosses the Cooke City road some two miles east of Gar- 
 diner Falls, and can be easily followed to the river. 
 
 Yancey’s, Tower Falls and Petrified Trees. — 
 Parties desiring to visit the eastern part of the Park, not 
 
I 
 
 TOWER FALLS. 
 
 28 
 
SIDE TRIPS FROM MAMMOTH HOT SPRINGS. 
 
 29 
 
 available on the grand tour until the Government road 
 over Mt. Washburn is completed, can spend two or three 
 enjoyable days at “Uncle” John Yancey’s, have the 
 best of trout fishing, and visit Tower Falls and the petri- 
 fied trees. Yancey’s place is eighteen miles from the 
 Mammoth Hot Springs, on the Cooke City road. The 
 character of the country is quite unlike any other portion 
 of the Park, and the ride, generally, is very much en- 
 joyed. Fishing in the Yellowstone is excellent above 
 the junction of East Fork to Tower Creek. Tower Falls 
 are three miles from Yancey’s (where guides to the fish- 
 ing grounds can be secured). Tower Creek empties 
 into the Yellowstone a short distance below the falls, 
 which are no feet high, deriving their name from the 
 peculiar rocky formations which rise, tower-like, several 
 hundred feet above the brink of the falls. There are 
 no fish in the creek above the falls. The petrified trees 
 are one and a half miles from Yancey’s, and reached 
 by an easy trail. They are the only specimens of petri- 
 fied trees standing in their natural position to be found 
 in the Park. On Specimen Ridge, across the Yellow- 
 stone, some 10 miles from Yancey’s, are numerous 
 specimens of petrifactions, many of them being 4 and 
 5 feet in diameter. All visitors to “Uncle” John’s 
 speak in glowing terms of the trip. His hotel, with 
 accommodations for twelve to fifteen ladies and gentle- 
 men, is located in Pleasant Valley, where Mr. Yancey 
 has resided for twenty years, selecting this romantic 
 portion of the Yellowstone in preference to all others. 
 
TOUR OR THE PARK. 
 
 3t 
 
 TOUR OF THE PARK. 
 
 Golden Gate. — This picturesque portion of the tour 
 of the Park is four miles south of the Mammoth Hot 
 Springs. It is a rugged pass between the base of the 
 lofty elevation of Bunsen’s Peak and the southern ex- 
 tremity of Terrace Mountain, through which flows the 
 west branch of Gardiner River. The sides of these 
 rocky walls, which extend 200 or 300 feet above the road- 
 way, are covered with a yellow moss, suggesting the 
 appropriate name the pass now bears. The pillar at the 
 east entrance, some 12 feet high, was originally a part 
 of the canyon wall. The construction of this road — 
 scarce a mile in length — was accomplished at an expense 
 of $14,000, it being the most difficult piece of road 
 building yet encountered by the Government engineers. 
 Golden Gate being nearly 1,000 feet higher than the Hot 
 Springs, necessarily makes this portion of the journey 
 rather wearisome; still the beautiful drive through forest 
 and glen fully compensates for the extra time consumed. 
 The favoring of one’s horses at the outset of the trip is 
 a matter of importance. Rustic Falls, occupying a con- 
 spicuous position at the west end of Golden Gate, add a 
 charm to this beautiful spot, and when seen in the early 
 part of the season are especially fine. The stream is fed 
 by mountain snows and springs along the base of the 
 hills a mile or two beyond. The fall is some 60 feet, over 
 a series of shallow basins worn into the dark moss-cov- 
 ered ledge, disappearing underneath the surplus of rock 
 deposited in the canyon from the construction of the 
 roadway. The view obtained of Golden Gate upon the 
 return trip is equally as interesting. 
 
32 
 
 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 Swan Lake Basin. — A pleasant surprise awaits the 
 visitor immediately beyond Golden Gate, in Swan Lake 
 Basin, it being quite unlike the region just traversed, and 
 one of the many typical mountain prairies hemmed in 
 by snow-clad peaks found throughout the Park. Evi- 
 dences of old Indian camps are seen in many places, and 
 during the fall and winter it is inhabited by hundreds of 
 elk and deer. The magnificent range to the west is the 
 Gallatin Mountains, among which are Bell’s Peak, Quad- 
 rant Mountain and Mt. Holmes; the last named having 
 an elevation of 10,578 feet. Vast fields of perpetual 
 snow are in sight throughout the summer. To the north 
 about eight miles is Electric Peak, the highest mountain 
 in the northern part of the Park, whose summit is 11,125 
 feet above sea level, deriving its name from the fact that 
 a great deposit of mineral renders the working of the 
 surveyor’s transit impossible when on the mountain. 
 The peculiar electrical display from its rugged peaks dur- 
 ing a thunder storm is a sight witnessed by only a favored 
 few. The drive continues south through Swan Lake 
 Basin, nearly upon this same level, to Norris, crossing 
 Indian and Obsidian creeks, the two forming the Middle 
 Gardiner River. 
 
 Obsidian Cliff. — This mountain of volcanic glass is 
 12 miles south of the Mammoth Hot Springs. The road- 
 way passes along its base for 1,000 feet between it and 
 Beaver Lake. The vertical columns of pentagonal- 
 shaped blocks of obsidian, rising some 250 feet above the 
 road, present a glistening, mirror-like effect when illu- 
 mined by the sun’s rays. The greater part of this mineral 
 glass is jet black, and quite opaque, with traces of similar 
 formation variegated with streaks of red and yellow. 
 
OBSIDIAN CLIFF 
 
 3 
 
 33 
 
34 
 
 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 The construction of the roadway along its base was 
 accomplished in a novel manner and with considerable 
 difficulty; the use of blasting powder being out of the 
 question, great fires were built around the huge blocks 
 of glass, which, when expanded, were suddenly cooled 
 by dashing water upon them, resulting in shattering the 
 blocks into small fragments. This process made possi- 
 ble the construction of this really wonderful roadway, 
 probably the only piece of glass road in the world. 
 There being no other exposed ridge of obsidian in the 
 Rocky Mountains, and this material being more desirable 
 than flint for the manufacture of arrow-heads, it was once 
 a famous resort for all tribes of Indians, who congregated 
 here in great numbers. Obsidian Cliff was “neutral 
 ground” to all the Rocky Mountain Indians and un- 
 doubtedly as sacred to the various hostile tribes as the 
 far-famed Pipestone country of Minnesota. Chips of 
 obsidian and specimens of partly finished arrow-heads 
 are found throughout the Park, generally at places occu- 
 pied by the Indians as summer camps. 
 
 Beaver Lake. — The roadway continues along the 
 east side of Beaver Lake, which is about one mile long 
 and a quarter of a mile wide. More than a dozen beaver 
 dams are constructed across the lake, forming a series of 
 artificial obstructions, each having a fall of from two to 
 four feet. A beaver house, still inhabited, is located near 
 the west shore of the lake. Since the rigid enforcement of 
 the Park regulations regarding the killing of game, Beaver 
 Lake is becoming alive with numerous water fowl, the pass- 
 ing carriages not seeming to alarm them. The reflection 
 of the pine- clad hills among the dense growth of pond 
 lilies which line its shores adds to the beauties of this lake. 
 
VIRGINIA CASCADES. 
 
 35 
 
36 
 
 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 The drive to Norris, though not of especial interest, 
 is over one of the natural “passes” between the head- 
 waters of the branches of the Yellowstone and Missouri 
 rivers, the ascent of the divide being so gentle it is im- 
 possible to know when it is passed. Twin Lakes, Mineral 
 Lake, Roaring Mountain and the Frying Pan afford 
 ample attractions between Beaver Lake and Norris Hotel. 
 
 From Norris, a wagon road (constructed in 1887) 
 runs in a nearly due east direction to the Great Falls and 
 Grand Canyon (12 miles distant) leading up the valley 
 of the Gibbon River, through Virginia Canyon, turning 
 a sharp angle of rocks known as the “ Bend in the Road” 
 and passing just beyond a series of pretty cascades, 
 thence on through an undulating pine forest, though the 
 last few miles of the way the country is more “open,” 
 affording occasional glimpses of the rugged scenery along 
 the Yellowstone River. On the whole, this road is both 
 pleasant and interesting; its grades are comparatively 
 easy and its forest surroundings render it refreshingly 
 cool. 
 
 This is the return route for stages which run through 
 the geyser basins on their way to the falls, but in the 
 rush of travel, or as a matter of their own choice, visitors 
 are often conveyed from Mammoth Springs direct to the 
 falls and canyon over this road, and so on to Yellowstone 
 and Shoshone (pronounced Sho-Sho-ny) lakes, and 
 through the geyser basins back to the Springs. 
 
TOUR OF THE PARK. 
 
 37 
 
 NORRIS GEYSER BASIN. 
 
 Many prefer leaving the hotel immediately after dinner 
 in advance of their carriages, which can overtake them 
 near the Monarch, about one mile distant, the walk 
 through the basin allowing a more satisfactory inspection 
 than possible to obtain in any other way. 
 
 This region, called the Gibbon Geyser Basin in Dr. 
 Hayden’s report, was discovered, in 1875, by Col. P. W. 
 Norris, then superintendent of the Park. Since 1881 it 
 has been called Norris Geyser Basin, which name it is 
 quite likely to retain. It covers an area of six square 
 miles, and is one of the most interesting portions of the 
 Park from a geological standpoint, from the fact of its 
 being one of the highest geyser basins in the Park, and 
 many of its active geysers being of quite recent origin. 
 While the geysers of Norris Basin do not compare with 
 those of the Upper Basin (thirty miles south), they are 
 of great interest to travelers never before witnessing this 
 strange freak of nature; hence it is better to inspect them 
 when first passing through, as they appear insignificant 
 upon the return trip. 
 
 The road follows along the ridge on the east side of 
 the basin, affording a commanding view of the surround- 
 ings. The first impression, especially upon a cool day, 
 when the steam is visible, is that one is entering a manu- 
 facturing locality; the terrible noise and rumblings, the 
 hissing of escaping steam and very unpleasant odors ex- 
 cite a feeling of unnecessary caution while endeavoring 
 to inspect the various wonders; however, the roadway 
 and numerous paths leading through the basin can be fol- 
 lowed with impunity. The Steam Vent, Black Growler, 
 
TOUR OF THE PARK. 
 
 39 
 
 Mud Geyser, Monarch Geyser, New Crater and Emerald 
 Pool comprise the chief attractions of Norris Basin. 
 
 The Steam Vent is located at the left of the road, 
 and is exceedingly interesting. Sufficient steam is con- 
 stantly escaping to move the longest of railway trains, 
 were it possible to utilize it. This steady discharge of 
 internal heat, producing a noise that is deafening, has 
 been known to exist for the past twelve years. Rocks 
 thrown into the aperture are instantly hurled aside with 
 great force. The plateau or valley to the southwest is 
 filled with numerous openings, the water in many being 
 clear and transparent, and in others of a milky hue, con- 
 stantly boiling and splashing, many of the vents sending 
 forth a disagreeable, sulphurous odor. This section can 
 be visited if great care is exercised; many of the craters, 
 being but thinly crusted, are insufficient to support a 
 person’s weight. 
 
 The little geyser at the south end of the plateau is 
 the “Constant,” or “Minute Man,” which has an erup- 
 tion every sixty seconds, with only a slight variation; 
 the pool is 24 feet in diameter, filled with water of 
 crystal clearness. The absence of a cone or deposit sur- 
 rounding the geysers of this basin, such as is found 
 around the geysers in the upper basin, tends to sub- 
 stantiate the theory of scientists as to the age of this 
 locality. During an eruption of the Minute Man jets of 
 water are thrown 40 feet in the air, while the main body 
 is lifted scarcely 30 feet. The overflow is not large, as 
 most of the water returns into the crater after each dis- 
 play. 
 
 The Black Growler, with a chimney-shaped open- 
 ing, is located quite near the road, at the head of a gulch 
 
40 
 
 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 leading from the plateau. Very little water is thrown out, 
 while a large quantity of steam is constantly escaping, 
 producing a peculiar sound. The deposit surrounding it 
 being of inky blackness, is evidently the origin of its 
 name. The water is not clear and has a strong odor of 
 sulphur, which is probably the cause of its turbidity. 
 
 Mud Geyser is located near the road, on the highest 
 point in the basin; its crater is about 12 feet in diameter, 
 having a raised margin 5 feet high on the east side, 
 sloping nearly to a level at the west. The eruptions 
 occur at intervals of twenty minutes and continue about 
 five; the lead-colored contents (about the consistency of 
 paint) being raised 8 or 10 feet during each pulsation. 
 Its contents are severely agitated, the turgid mass rising 
 nearly to the edge of the crater. During the spring of 
 1889 the character of this geyser changed considerably, 
 becoming more clear, and another, with predominant 
 muddy features, broke out near the Steam Vent. These 
 phenomena tend to substantiate the theory that all gey- 
 sers, in their earlier stages of development, partake of 
 the nature of mud springs. The path leading south from 
 Mud Geyser passes Emerald Pool and New Crater, and 
 continues on to the Monarch. 
 
 Emerald Pool is somewhat concealed in the tim- 
 ber, and is a handsome, emerald-tinted spring, 40 x 50 
 feet in size. The sulphur-lined basin with coral walls, 
 most beautifully shaped, can be seen to an appalling 
 depth. It is one of the many quiet springs, simply over- 
 flowing. The water is quite hot, having a temperature 
 of 186 degrees Fahrenheit at its edge. 
 
 The New Crater. —On the hillside, about 500 feet 
 south of Emerald Pool, is found this prominent object of 
 
TOUR OF THK PARK. 
 
 4i 
 
 interest, surrounded by huge blocks of recently disturbed 
 rock, a narrow ravine leading to the basin below being 
 covered with sand and deposit by its overflow. The 
 eruptions of this new geyser during the seasons of 1888 
 and 1889 occurred every two hours, continuing about 
 twenty minutes. The rock covered crater prevented the 
 discharges attaining any great height. Reports from the 
 Park during the winter of 1889 and 1890 indicate that it 
 is developing into a large and powerful geyser. 
 
 The Monarch Geyser. — The location of this gey- 
 ser is beneath a prominent bluff of brilliantly colored 
 rocks, nearly upon the level of the plateau; the crater 
 consists of two oblong openings in the rock, the larger 
 of which is 20 feet long and 3 feet wide. Eruptions 
 of the Monarch occur without warning, and consist of a 
 series of explosions, frequently more than a dozen, in 
 which columns of water are thrown 100 feet high, 
 flooding the level country surrounding. The intervals 
 of eruption vary from year to year, ordinarily, about 
 twelve hours. The Fearless, Vixen and Steamboat are 
 geysers of minor importance, and are well worth a visit. 
 Three miles from Norris Basin the road enters Elk Park, 
 a beautiful valley surrounded by heavily timbered hills 
 and mountains; the Gibbon River quietly winding 
 through it. A short distance before entering Gibbon 
 Canyon, which is followed for some miles, a very inter- 
 esting group of paint pots can be visited. 
 
 Gibbon Paint Pots. — Half a mile east of the en- 
 trance to Gibbon Canyon, surrounded by a dense growth 
 of pine timber, are located these remarkable paint pots, 
 a carriage driveway connecting them with the main road. 
 They consist of numerous openings in the highly colored 
 
42 
 
 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 clay, and are intensely curious, their brilliant coloring 
 and fantastic shapes being the admiration of all. The 
 greater part of the hot springs are at the base of the 
 hill, while the most beautiful paint pot is some 50 feet 
 up the hillside. This, the main attraction, has a funnel- 
 shaped crater with walls of finely ground clay extending 
 about six feet high; each puff* of steam through the 
 thick, pasty material in the bottom of the crater moulds 
 a perfect rose in full bloom, to be soon replaced by one 
 equally as handsome. Visitors should avoid leaving the 
 regular paths, as the treacherous character of this forma- 
 tion renders it quite unsafe. 
 
 GIBBON CANYON. 
 
 This rugged mountain pass affords the only fairly easy 
 means of exit from Norris Geyser Basin to the valley of 
 the Firehole. The roadway enters the canyon on the 
 east side of the Gibbon River, and follows the latter’s 
 course as nearly as practicable, shadowed by precipitous 
 cliffs, — some of them 2,000 feet in height, — the frequent 
 sharp approach of which to the banks of the river com- 
 pels the crossing and recrossing of the rapid but shallow 
 stream — here, across a substantial bridge; there, by a con- 
 venient natural ford. 
 
 At the northern entrance to the canyon a foot-bridge 
 and bridle-path lead to the summit of Mt. Schurz, upon 
 which is located Monument Geyser Basin, at an altitude 
 of 1,000 feet above Gibbon River. Interesting as this 
 “basin” unquestionably is, its difficult access, together 
 with the time necessarily consumed in climbing and de- 
 scending the somewhat steep trail, is, unless to one in- 
 clined to scientific observation, scarcely compensated by 
 
TOUR OF THE PARK. 
 
 43 
 
 even the closest scrutiny of the dozen or so crumbling- gey- 
 ser cones — some of them steaming and rumbling, others 
 apparently extinct — which constitute the sum total of at- 
 tractiveness and gives to the locality a distinctive name. 
 
 Proceeding along the pass, the numerous little puffs 
 of steam arising from either bank of the river, near the 
 water’s surface, need no watchful guide to apprise the 
 passer-by of the countless hot springs with which the 
 gorge abounds. Many of these springs are curious and 
 interesting, and all can be sufficiently observed as one 
 passes leisurely along, without stopping to examine each 
 in detail. One of them, however, Beryl Spring, is 
 rather more than usually attractive, and deserves, as it 
 seldom fails to receive, somewhat of particular notice. 
 The largest boiling spring in the Park, being some 15 
 feet in diameter, it is located close by the roadside, about 
 a mile from the entrance to the canyon, and can be readily 
 viewed from a passing carriage; the violent boiling of 
 its surface, coupled with the noisy hiss of escaping steam, 
 while lending something of nervous apprehension to the 
 feelings of the traveler, strangely enough possesses no 
 terrors for the stage horse, although the constant over- 
 flow of scalding water from the edges of its basin- like rim 
 pours across the roadway itself. 
 
 The road, throughout the canyon’s entire length, 
 could hardly have been better constructed to afford a 
 more complete and thorough inspection of the wild beauty 
 of rock and glen, and, as it nears its southern exit from 
 the pass, permits a good view of one of the many charm- 
 ing cataracts of this region. 
 
 Gibbon Falls, whose waters, tumbling in a foamy 
 torrent down a series of steep cascades on one side of a 
 
44 
 
 YKLLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 bold, rocky ledge, and on the other — and most readily 
 observed side — streaming in a thin, shining ribbon of 
 silvery spray from a height of something over 80 feet, 
 fittingly conclude the attractions of Gibbon Canyon. 
 
 After leaving the falls, the road passes for a distance 
 of some eight miles over a succession of pine and fir clad 
 terraces, from the southern crest of which, on a clear day, 
 may be seen the three snow-capped “sentinels” of the 
 Teton Mountains, 75 miles distant, forming a portion of 
 the boundary between the territories of Wyoming and 
 Idaho; their dizzy height, full 14,000 feet, overtopping 
 all other peaks of the Rockies. 
 
 The dense volume of steam rising from Excelsior Gey- 
 ser, distant about eight miles, is also plainly visible from 
 this point. 
 
 Leaving the terraces, the road passes, by a gentle de- 
 scent, into the valley of Firehole River, whose two forks, 
 together with the waters of the Gibbon, unite to form the 
 Madison River, one of the three principal sources of the 
 Missouri. Here is located the hotel of the Lower Gey- 
 ser Basin, and, to prevent fatigue, is usually made the 
 terminus of the first day’s journey by persons entering 
 the Park by way of Mammoth Hot Springs; and is the 
 first point reached by those approaching by the Beaver 
 Canyon route. 
 
 The hotel accommodations here are good, consisting 
 of one large hostelry and several cottages. The baths are 
 especially fine, — soft hot water from a mineral spring near 
 by being conducted to the hotel in pipes, — affording de- 
 lightfully refresing bathing after the day’s ride of 42 miles. 
 
 One of the interesting things to be seen about the 
 forks of the Firehole is a colony of beavers, which 
 
TOUR OF THE PARK. 
 
 45 
 
 have their habitat a short distance below the confluence 
 of the forks of the river, not more than a quarter of a 
 mile from the hotel. Here, almost any pleasant evening, 
 the sight-seer may find these industrious animals busily 
 engaged in dam building or repairing, apparently as little 
 disturbed by the presence of man in this wild retreat as 
 one might expect them to be if domesticated and kept in 
 a city park. 
 
46 
 
 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 LOWER GEYSER BASIN. 
 
 This is a comparatively wide valley, extending south- 
 ward from the junction of the east fork of Firehole River 
 with the main stream, and embracing an area of 30 to 40 
 square miles. Over this valley or “basin” are scattered 
 hot springs in groups, of which Dr. Hayden, in his of- 
 ficial survey of the Park Region, has catalogued 693 
 exclusive of 17 geysers. The central portion of the 
 basin is a nearly level plateau, 6 or 7 miles in width, only 
 partially timbered, and covered with either spring deposit 
 or marsh. The trip from Lower Geyser Basin Hotel to 
 the Upper Basin and return is the event of a lifetime 
 and should be well timed as to the hour of entering the 
 Lower Basin in the morning. It frequently occurs that 
 visitors, impatient to begin the second day’s sight-seeing, 
 leave the hotel at the forks of the Firehole, at so early an 
 hour that they find everything enveloped in dense mist. 
 Hence nothing will be gained by a too early start, or un- 
 til the mist and steam have risen from the valley. 
 
 The general elevation of Lower Geyser Plateau is 
 about 7,250 feet, — that of the Upper Basin a trifle 
 greater — and the surrounding slopes, — for the most part 
 heavily timbered — from 400 to 800 feet higher. Though 
 the scenery in the immediate vicinity of the hotel at Fire- 
 hole is not specially interesting, its location at this point 
 was found to be expedient in order that the complete tour 
 of the Park might be made with ease and comfort, a due 
 regard being, of course, had to effecting this without en- 
 croaching further than actually necessary upon the tour- 
 ist’s, very often, limited time. 
 
TOUR OF THE PARK. 
 
 47 
 
 Two roads lead from the Lower to the Upper Basin — 
 a distance of io miles. The route usually taken is the 
 one on the east side of Firehole River, which passes the 
 Government buildings situated on the east fork of the 
 Firehole, about half a mile from the hotel, passing the 
 junction of the falls road and skirting along the east 
 side of the basin until reaching Fountain Geyser and 
 Mammoth Paint Pots — the two most prominent features 
 of this locality, distant two and one-half miles from the 
 hotel. This road, though a trifle longer than the main 
 road, is the only route leading past the Fountain and 
 paint pots. 
 
 Fountain Geyser is located upon a mound or emi- 
 nence about 25 feet above the roadway, and distant from 
 the latter several hundred feet. The formation or de- 
 posit from the waters of this geyser covers an area of 
 several acres, the crater of which is 30 feet in diameter, 
 surrounded by a rim-like edge, to the margin of which 
 the water rises, except upon the south side, where a 
 mound of beaded geyserite has been built up to a height 
 of 3 or 4 feet. On the north side of the geyser proper 
 is a considerably larger pool which receives the overflow 
 from the crater. 
 
 The cushion-like masses of geyserite, which are plain- 
 ly visible through the transparent blue water, in both 
 the crater and pool, are very much admired. 
 
 The eruptions of the Fountain occur at intervals of 
 from two to four hours, and continue with great force 
 from ten to fifteen minutes usually. 
 
 During activity the main volume of water does not 
 reach a height beyond 15 or 20 feet, though jets are fre- 
 quently thrown 50 or 60 feet. Indications of an erup- 
 
48 
 
 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 tion are as follows : When both the pool and crater are 
 full of water to the rim it is probable that an eruption will 
 soon take place, as immediately after action the water 
 falls from 12 to 18 inches below the crater rim, from which 
 point it rises gradually until the climax is reached. 
 
 Mammoth Paint Pots. — Some few hundred feet 
 east of the Fountain, from which they are separated 
 by a fringe of trees, are situated these wonderful paint 
 pots. This remarkable mud caldron has a basin which 
 measures 40 x 60 feet, with a mud rim on three sides, 
 which is from 4 to 5 feet in height. In this basin is a 
 mass of fine, whitish substance, which is in a state of 
 constant agitation. It resembles some vast boiling pot 
 of paint or bed of mortar, with numerous points of 
 ebullition; and the constant boiling has reduced the con- 
 tents to a thoroughly mixed mass of silicious clay. There 
 is a continuous bubbling up of mud, producing sounds 
 like a hoarsely whispered “plop, plop,” which rises 
 in hemispherical masses, cones, rings and jets. On the 
 north side of the mud basin the rim is low, and forms the 
 edge of a flat of pink and red mud, which is cracked and 
 seamed, and over which are scattered thirty or forty mud 
 cones, generally of a pink and rose color, — though a few 
 are gray, — averaging from 2 to 3 feet in height. 
 
 A very interesting section of country lies to the south 
 of the Fountain and paint pots, but, at present, can- 
 not be reached with safety. Flere are situated numer- 
 ous geysers, among them the Great Fountain, a very 
 powerful one, which will greatly add to Park attractions 
 when made accessible. In one of these springs may be 
 seen the whitened skeleton of a mountain buffalo. No 
 king or saint was ever more magnificently entombed than 
 
MAMMOTH PAINT 
 
 4 
 
 49 
 
50 
 
 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 this monarch of the hills in his sepulcher in the wilderness. 
 
 The only possible way at present of reaching Great 
 Fountain Geyser, with anything like safety, is by saddle 
 animal, following up the bed of Fountain Creek, a 
 small stream which conducts into Firehole River, of 
 which it is a tributary, the constantly overflowing waters 
 of this immediate geyser group. 
 
 Leaving the Fountain and paint pots, the road 
 bears to the west, crossing Fountain Creek, just men- 
 tioned, passing numerous hot springs, until it strikes 
 the west bank of the Firehole, where it turns south, pro- 
 ceeding up that stream until, emerging from a strip of 
 timber, Excelsior Geyser is brought into full view. 
 Strictly speaking, this section constitutes the upper por- 
 tion of the Lower Basin, and is about three miles from the 
 Fountain group. Being about midway between the 
 extremes of the Upper and Lower Basins, however, this 
 locality is given a distinct designation, that of 
 
 MIDWAY GEYSER BASIN. 
 
 Excelsior Geyser. — “Early explorers in this local- 
 ity discovered, in 1871,” says Dr. Peale, “on the west 
 bank of Firehole River, an immense pit of rather irregu- 
 lar outline, 330 feet in length by 200 feet in width at the 
 widest part. The water is of a deep blue tint, and is 
 intensely agitated all the time, dense clouds of steam 
 constantly ascending from it. It is only when the breeze 
 wafts this aside that the surface of the water, which is 15 
 or 20 feet below the level surrounding, can be seen. The 
 walls on three sides are perpendicular, cliff-like, and in 
 places overhang, having been worn away on the other.” 
 Cliff Caldron, with every indication of a powerful geyser 
 
EXCELSIOR GEYSER, FIREHOLE RIVER 
 
 
52 
 
 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 with long intervals of eruption, was, however, not known 
 to be a geyser until some ten years later. 
 
 Visited by thousands annually, this interesting section 
 became known as “Hell’s Half Acre,” a name it re- 
 tained till 1881, when discovered by Col. P. W. Norris 
 to be a geyser of great force, and named by him ‘ ‘ Excel- 
 sior.” Its eruptions in 1881 began in the fall, after the 
 tourist season had closed, and before the season of 1882 
 opened had wrought a great change in the appearance 
 of its crater. Col. Norris witnessed upward of thirty 
 eruptions, varying from 75 to 250 feet in height, at inter- 
 vals of one to four hours. 
 
 No further eruptions of this geyser are recorded until 
 early in the spring of 1888, when reports became current 
 that Excelsior was again in action, and many resi- 
 dents of the surrounding territory were attracted to the 
 Park when the only means of travel was upon snow- 
 shoes. Eruptions of great force continued during the 
 entire season of 1888, and kept up with unabated vigor 
 during the succeeding winter. The present size of the 
 crater is some 250 feet in width by 400 feet in length, 
 having enlarged quite a good deal during the past two 
 years. This process of enlargement, if kept up, will, in 
 time, undermine Turquois Spring, and, eventually, Pris- 
 matic Lake also; the latter fully 500 feet distant from 
 the geyser crater. 
 
 The intervals of eruption during 1888 were at first 
 about every hour and fifteen minutes, increasing toward 
 the latter part of the season to two hours. The only 
 possible indication of an approaching display is the in- 
 crease in the volume of overflow, there being a steady 
 filling of the crater after periods of activity. 
 
TOUR OF THE PARK. 
 
 53 
 
 Immediately preceding an eruption a violent upheaval 
 occurs, raising the entire volume of water in the crater 
 nearly 50 feet, when instantly one or two, and sometimes 
 three, terrific explosions occur, followed closely by the 
 shooting upward of columns of water, and oftentimes 
 masses of the rocky formation, to a height of 200 to 250 
 feet. Tons of rock have in this way been hurled into 
 Firehole River, some pieces fully 500 feet from the crater, 
 while specimens may be seen scattered all about the 
 vicinity. At each upheaval sufficient water escapes to 
 raise Firehole River several inches. The wearing away 
 of the formation at the outlet of the “overflow” has 
 plainly exposed to view the hoof-prints of buffalo, un- 
 doubtedly made centuries ago. The inactivity, during 
 1888, of two of the largest geysers in the Upper Basin is 
 attributed to the wonderful activity of Excelsior, 
 which, at each eruption, ejects as much water as all the 
 geysers in this basin combined. The afternoon displays 
 are considered the best, owing to the presence of less 
 steam than earlier in the day, and from the main road 
 fully as satisfactory a view is obtained. 
 
 Turquois Spring is situated about 150 feet north 
 from Excelsior, being a silent pool, about 100 feet in 
 diameter, and remarkable for its beautifully blue trans- 
 parent water. There used to be a constant overflow 
 from this spring, which was carried into the Firehole 
 River through a channel some 2 feet wide and 8 or 10 
 inches in depth, its sides and bottom being most ex- 
 quisitely colored; but during the latter part of the season 
 of 1888 the waters of the spring suddenly settled some 
 10 feet, since which time no overflow has taken place. 
 West of Turquois Spring, and, in itself, a marvel, is a 
 
54 
 
 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 small spring of cold water, which, though rather ‘ ‘ brack- 
 ish” to be palatable, is attractive as being the sole cold 
 spring in this region of thermal waters. 
 
 Prismatic Lake. — Probably the very largest, and 
 certainly one of the most beautiful springs in the entire 
 Park Region, is that designated by the above appellation. 
 It is situated some 500 feet or so west of Excelsior Gey- 
 ser, its dimensions being 250 x 350 or 400 feet. Over 
 the central pit, or bowl, of this spring the water is of a 
 deep blue color, changing to green toward the margin, 
 while that in the shallower portion of the lake surround- 
 ing the central basin has a yellow tint gradually fading 
 into orange. Outside its rim there is a brilliant red de- 
 posit, which shades into purples, browns and grays, all 
 seemingly painted upon aground of grayish white, which 
 forms the mound, built up of layers of silicious deposit, 
 upon which the spring is situated. This coloring is in 
 vivid bands, which are strikingly marked and distinct. 
 The water flowing off in every direction, with constant 
 wave-like pulsations, over the artistically scalloped and 
 slightly raised rim of the lake, has formed a succes- 
 sion of terraces, each a few inches in height, down the 
 slopes of the mound, particularly upon its southern face. 
 It is impossible to exaggerate the delicacy and richness 
 of the coloring in and about this wonderful phenomenon 
 of nature. The temperature of the water is about 146 
 degrees Fahrenheit, and the constantly rising clouds of 
 steam sometimes render difficult a good view of the lake 
 surface; but viewed from the proper standpoint (gener- 
 ally with the sun to the back), these same volumes of 
 steam are exceedingly attractive, reflecting the colors of 
 the rainbow or prism, whence the name of the spring, 
 
TOUR OF THE PARK. 
 
 55 
 
 though some attribute it to the variegated tints of its 
 waters. Leaving Excelsior, the road passes numerous 
 springs and pools, and, about half a mile to the south, 
 intersects the main road between Upper and Lower 
 Basins which skirts along the west side of Midway 
 Basin. 
 
 The entire drive from Midway to the Upper Basin, 
 some five miles, is among these natural wonders, but 
 tourists usually proceed to the hotel located at the ex- 
 treme south end of the Upper Basin, before beginning a 
 minute and detailed examination of them. 
 

TOUR OF THE PARK. 
 
 57 
 
 UPPER GEYSER BASIN. 
 
 The following, from the facile pen of Mr. John Hyde, 
 is one of the finest general descriptions of this basin ever 
 written: “The principal geysers of the Park, which are 
 
 also the most powerful in the known world, are situated 
 in this basin, which extends from Old Faithful down the 
 main Firehole River to a point just below the mouth of 
 Little Firehole River, arid along Iron Spring Creek, a 
 branch of the last named stream. The more important 
 springs and geysers are scattered along the main river. 
 This basin is about four square miles in extent, and is 
 triangular in shape, owing to the convergence of Firehole 
 and Little Firehose rivers as they flow northward. The 
 chief geysers are contained within an area of perhaps 
 one square mile, along the course of the main stream 
 and on either side of it. The main river flows from 
 southeast to northwest through the basin, taking a more 
 northerly course, however, after the waters of Iron Spring 
 Creek and the Little Firehole unite with it. The volume 
 of the main stream is sometimes greatly increased, and 
 very rapidly, too, just after eruptions of some of the 
 larger geysers, and its temperature is noticeably affected 
 by these springs. The surface of this basin is a succes- 
 sion of knolls and ridges crowned with geysers and boil- 
 ing springs. On every side are heavily timbered 
 mountain slopes, 1,500 feet or more in height, with here 
 and there outcroppings or escarpments of rough basaltic 
 rocks from the dark groundwork of pines. Clouds of 
 steam hang like a pall over the basin and slender columns 
 of vapor float gracefully and silently upward from among 
 the tree-tops of the surrounding forest, betraying the 
 
5 » 
 
 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 presence of springs hidden away in the dark solitudes of 
 primeval nature. The air is laden with sulphurous fumes 
 and the quivering earth full of rumbling, gurgling sounds. 
 Stupendous fountains of boiling water, veiled in spray, 
 shoot upward at varying heights like reversed cascades, 
 glistening and scintillating in the sunlight until, their up- 
 heaving force expended, they fall in torrents which shake 
 the ground. Of course the various geysers of the basin 
 are never simultaneously in action. The periods of erup- 
 tion of all of them are more or less irregular. Many 
 geysers, too, which now exist will doubtless sooner or 
 later cease operation — retire from business, as it were — 
 and new ones will form to take their places. 
 
 ‘ ‘ An excellent point from which to obtain a compre- 
 hensive view of the Upper Geyser Basin, is a high mound 
 near Old Faithful, formerly the crater of a geyser, of 
 which nothing now remains except a small steaming, 
 gurgling vent. Here the entire ‘band’ of geysers may 
 be heard as they give their concert with hot water trum- 
 pets in perfect diapason, each performer, at irregular 
 intervals, taking a solo part, and uttering his loudest 
 tones in harmonic combination of pitch and measure. 
 Close at hand, on the right, is Old Faithful, all that its 
 name implies; in the foreground, the Castle, looking like 
 a feudal stronghold; to the right, across the river, the 
 Bee Hive with its shapely crater; a few rods beyond, 
 Sapphire Pool, out of which the stupendous Giantess 
 plays; close by are the Lion, Lioness and two Cubs, 
 each of which when aroused to action inspires terror by 
 its growling. Further down the stream, on the right- 
 hand side, behind an intervening point of pines, are the 
 Sawmill, which keeps up its harsh burring sound, and 
 
TOUR OF THE PARK. 
 
 59 
 
 the Grand, which twice daily makes a display of its 
 majestic power. Besides these, there are many other 
 geysers of minor caliber, as well as countless steam vents 
 and jets of scalding water, from all of which flow in- 
 numerable rills which are beautifully stained in brilliant 
 dyes by the mineral deposit. Turning the eye again to 
 the left bank of the Firehole and looking beyond the 
 broad bowl of azure-tinted water which almost laves the 
 base of the Castle, a towering column of steam marks the 
 location of the Giant, standing, with high cleft cone, close 
 beside the river brink, in the midst of another group of 
 important geysers, — his surrounding retainers, — all noisy 
 and serving as vents for their brooding master, only 
 ceasing their turbulence and cowering, as if in mute ter- 
 ror, when his paroxysms of rage become ungovernable. 
 A short distance to the left of this Colossus is the Grotto, 
 whose mazy labyrinths are thickly incrusted with pearls 
 of dazzling luster. Upon a gentle acclivity, not far to 
 the westward, the Splendid, a young and energetic 
 geyser, hurls upward a majestic column which it decks 
 with luminous vapor like silvery drapery. Further on, 
 toward the south, near the extreme end of the basin, 
 are the Fan, with its diverging jets, and the Riverside, 
 rearing itself from the very brink of the stream, each 
 frequent in action, the last named shooting a strangely 
 curved column which breaks into spray and falls into the 
 waters of the river like gleaming threads of silver. 
 
 “There are no less than 440 springs and geysers, ac- 
 cording to Dr. Hayden’s latest survey, in the Upper Gey- 
 ser Basin. Of these at least twenty-six are known to be 
 really geysers. Among the springs are scores, the rare 
 beauty of which, with respect to color, depth and trans- 
 
TOUR OF THE PARK. 
 
 6l 
 
 lucency of their waters, and the delicacy, variety and 
 richness of their silicious crystallizations astonish the be- 
 holder. Geysers exist, it is true, in Iceland and New 
 Zealand, but there are none to be found in groups so 
 magnificent as here, nor are they likely to be reproduced 
 elsewhere on so grand a scale.” 
 
 The following more detailed description ot the chiel 
 geysers and springs will serve to acquaint the reader 
 with the peculiar characteristics of each. 
 
 Old Faithful. — Less than 1,000 feet east, and in 
 plain sight from the hotel at Upper Geyser Basin, is located 
 this reliable friend of the tourist. Every sixty-three min- 
 utes (with rarely a variation of five minutes), day and 
 night, summer and winter, this wonderful freak of nature 
 gives its exhibition, without money and without price. 
 Situated at the south end of the basin, it commands a 
 clear view of nearly every other object of interest, and its 
 moonlight displays are sights once seen never to be for- 
 gotten. Its eruptions begin with a few spasmodic spurts, 
 during which considerable water is thrown out, and these 
 are followed in from five to eight minutes by a column 
 of hot water two feet in diameter, which is projected up- 
 ward to a height of 125 to 150 feet, where it remains 
 apparently stationary for about three minutes. The 
 position and direction of the sun and wind vary the ap- 
 pearance of this geyser, which is one of the most popular 
 in the Park, because of the remarkable regularity with 
 which its eruptions occur, and the excellent opportunities 
 afforded for observation. Its crater, an oblong opening 
 2x6 feet on the inside and 4 x 8 on the outside, is situ- 
 ated on a mound of geyserite, measuring at the base 
 145 x 215 feet, and at the top 20 x 54 feet, the whole 
 
62 
 
 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 rising about 12 feet above the surrounding level. This 
 mound is composed of layers of deposit in a succession of 
 distinctly marked terraces which are full of shallow, basin- 
 like pools, the water in which is clear as crystal, and their 
 edges or rims exquisitely beaded and fretted, their bot- 
 toms showing delicate tints of rose, white, saffron, orange, 
 brown and gray. The north end of the crater has large 
 globular masses of beaded, pearly deposit, and its throat 
 is of a dark yellow or rusty color. 
 
 Bee Hive. — Crossing the foot-bridge leading to the 
 east side of Firehole River, this geyser is found about 100 
 feet from the river bank. Its name was suggested by 
 the peculiar shape of its cone, which is about 4 feet 
 in height, 3 feet in diameter at the top, by 7 feet at 
 the base, and nearly circular. Its nozzle-like opening, 
 or crater, is about 18 inches across at the apex, narrow- 
 ing gradually till the base of the cone is reached. The 
 Bee Hive’s eruptions are irregular, generally occurring 
 about three times daily. It has, however, been known to 
 have periods of activity not more than three hours apart 
 and, per contra , to remain inactive for several weeks. 
 There are, usually, several eruptions, about three hours 
 apart, immediately following action of the Giantess. 
 
 There is no terrace-shaped deposit surrounding this 
 geyser, as is the case with most of the others, and it is the 
 only one close up to which persons can approach with 
 perfect security while in action, as no rocks are thrown 
 out, and so hot is the water ejected that it, for the most 
 part, evaporates while in the air. The height attained 
 varies from 170 to 220 feet. A miniature geyser, or in- 
 dicator, a few feet from its base, is, generally speaking, 
 a faithful forerunner of activity in this geyser, by shoot- 
 
TOUR OF THE PARK. 
 
 63 
 
 ing up jets or spurts of water, which are followed in about 
 fifteen minutes by a column of steam and water from the 
 main crater hurled upward with great force and in a 
 steady stream. 
 
 Giantess. — Some 300 feet east from the Bee Hive, 
 upon the highest point of elevation in this portion of the 
 Upper Basin, is located the Giantess, considered by 
 many a geyser of unusual importance, whose eruptions, 
 occurring at intervals of fourteen days, none should fail to 
 see. However, owing to the fact that, in order to witness 
 and fully appreciate its entire display, one must remain in 
 its vicinity at least twelve hours, this geyser is often disap- 
 pointing. Its crater, bowl-shaped, and some 60 feet in 
 depth, is 24 x 30 feet in size at the surface, and is 
 wholly devoid of the highly colored ornamentation and 
 cone so characteristic of other geysers in this region. 
 As the crater rapidly fills with water after an eruption, 
 it resembles, to most visitors, a large, slightly agitated 
 pool of sapphire-tinted water, with no outward indication 
 of being the powerful geyser which it really is. At the 
 beginning of an eruption the entire contents of the crater 
 are instantly forced out, flooding the whole region round 
 about. Relieved from this immense pressure of water, 
 the geyser at once begins to eject forked- like columns of 
 water and steam into the air, throwing them to a height 
 of from 60 to 100 feet above the surface. These displays 
 continue at short intervals throughout a period of about 
 twelve hours, or until the water in the geyser tube is en- 
 tirely exhausted, when an interesting “steam period” 
 takes place, lasting nearly an hour, and producing a 
 roaring sound audible in all parts of the basin, and when 
 occurring at night often awakens guests at the hotel. 
 
64 
 
 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 In the earlier stages of eruption, during which the 
 emptying of the crater takes place, shocks, similar to 
 those produced by earthquakes, are distinctly felt 
 throughout the basin, while the disappearance of adja- 
 cent springs, and the generally succeeding activity of 
 the Bee Hive give rise to the theory of subterranean 
 connection between geysers and springs upon this 
 “bench.” 
 
 The Sponge. — A short distance to the north of the 
 Giantess is a curious little geyser called the Sponge, 
 whose slightly raised, circular cone strongly resembling 
 a huge sponge in the character and color of its forma- 
 tion, attracts the eye of the passer- by. 
 
 Lion, Lioness and Cubs. — This interesting group 
 is next visited. The Lioness and Cubs occupy a con- 
 spicuous mound of geyserite to the west of the Lion, 
 which has an irregular flat-topped cone about four feet in 
 height, and is separated from the rest of the group by a 
 slight depression. Eruptions of the Lion occur daily; 
 those of the Lioness are irregular as to time, and, as the 
 Cubs play more frequently, it often happens that the 
 Lioness and Cubs play together, though it rarely occurs 
 that the Lion and Lioness are seen in eruption at one 
 and the same time. The former is the most powerful of 
 the group, and throws a column of water 50 or 60 feet 
 high, frequently continuing in action ten or fifteen 
 minutes. 
 
 Sawmill Geyser. — Leaving the group just de- 
 scribed, the pathway leads down the basin, passing 
 through a point of timber close by the river, emerging 
 from which one is confronted by a number of active 
 springs and small geysers (situated upon a “bench” 
 
TOUR OF THE PARK. 
 
 65 
 
 similar to the one just left), among - which are the Tardy, 
 Bulger, Spasmodic and Sawmill, the last named being 
 the chief attraction, as well as the largest of the group. 
 This locality may be also reached from the west side of 
 the river by means of a foot bridge near the Castle. 
 
 The basin of the Sawmill is shallow, and about 40 
 feet in diameter, inclosing another basin of about half its 
 size, in the centre of which is located its funnel-shaped 
 crater, some seven feet across the top, and sloping to a 
 small orifice. Its eruptions are very frequent, usually 
 five or six a day, each continuing in operation fully an 
 hour. The peculiar noise accompanying activity (sug- 
 gesting its name), coupled with its spiteful vigor, render 
 this geyser quite attractive. 
 
 The Grand and Turban. — At the base of a rocky 
 bluff, some 500 feet east from and nearly opposite the 
 Castle, are situated the above important geysers. An 
 observer is naturally led to suppose that the irregular, 
 pit-shaped crater, noticeably prominent, is that from 
 . which the Grand plays; such is not the fact, however, 
 as this crater is merely a water-basin or reservoir, un- 
 doubtedly having connection with the Turban, but en- 
 tirely unconnected with the Grand, which plays from an 
 opening situated a few feet to the south, surrounded by 
 cushion-like masses of geyseritic formation. Eruptions 
 of the Grand are somewhat irregular, usually occurring 
 at intervals of from nine to thirty hours; its inactivity 
 during the latter part of the season of 1888 being attributed 
 to the extraordinary demonstrations of Excelsior. The 
 outbursts of the Grand are among the finest to be wit- 
 nessed in the Park, having a series of eight to twelve 
 distinct eruptions, lasting from twenty to thirty minutes, 
 
 5 
 
66 
 
 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 and throwing at each discharge forked columns of water 
 to a height of 200 feet, allowing ample time for visitors, 
 who may chance to be in any other part of the basin, to 
 reach its vicinity in time to witness some, at least, of its 
 several magnificent displays. The Turban plays, mainly, 
 from a fissure-like opening in its formation immediately 
 north of its main crater, which, meantime, is greatly 
 agitated, often overflowing, and discharging quite large 
 quantities of its hot flood into the crater of the Grand, 
 just below it on the south. The frequency of the Turban’s 
 eruptions occasionally presents the unusually fine spec- 
 tacle of both geysers, the Grand and Turban, in action 
 at the same time. On the way from this point to the 
 Giant and Grotto, Beauty Spring is passed, one of the 
 largest silent pools in the Upper Basin, remarkable for 
 the vivid coloring and exquisite beauty of its highly or- 
 namented margin, and its limpid blue water. Near by 
 are situated many interesting springs and pools yet un- 
 named, among them a miniature geyser called the Eco- 
 nomic, from the curious fact that there is no overflow nor 
 waste whatever from it, as its waters, though frequently 
 thrown 6 or 8 feet in the air, fall again into its crater 
 and disappear. 
 
 The Giant. — It is nearly a mile from the hotel to 
 this monarch of geysers, situated, like many others, in 
 close proximity to Firehole River. Its cone, about 10 
 feet in height, though some 200 feet from the roadway, 
 is conspicuous. A few feet to the north is an irregular 
 mound, from which considerable steam escapes from sun- 
 dry small holes, undoubtedly connected in some manner 
 with the geyser and acting as its escape valves. The 
 platform of deposit upon which the cone stands is about 
 
68 
 
 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 75 feet in diameter. The cone is broken on the west side 
 from the apex nearly to its base, affording a good view 
 of the contents of the crater, which are almost constantly 
 in a state of turbulent boiling and splashing. In 1881 
 the break in the cone was not nearly so large, being not 
 more than half its present proportions. This is undoubt- 
 edly the result of unusually violent eruptions. The 
 Giant usually “plays” every six days, for a period of 
 one and one-half to two hours. Its inactivity during 1888 
 was by many attributed to the same cause which is sup- 
 posed to have affected the Grand and which has already 
 been alluded to. When in action, an immense column of 
 water is lifted 250 feet into the air at its initial outburst, 
 the height of the column gradually decreasing until the 
 close of the display, which is preceded by a rumbling 
 sound not unlike a distant train of moving cars. Not until 
 1887 did the eruptions of this geyser take place in the day 
 time, and those fortunate enough to have been eye-wit- 
 nesses of its giganticdisplay have enjoyed a treat most rare. 
 
 The Oblong. — Quite near the river bank and a short 
 distance south from the Giant is situated the Oblong. 
 Its crater is about 30 x 50 feet in size, — hence its name, — 
 the interior of which, immediately following an eruption, 
 is exposed to a depth of several feet, and, lined, as it is, 
 with large globular masses of formation, affords the finest 
 view of interior geyser structure to be seen in the entire 
 Park Region. Two large openings can be clearly seen in 
 the bottom of the crater, and when the water is not agi- 
 tated the eye readily penetrates these to unknown depths. 
 Eruptions of the Oblong occur about every six hours, 
 lasting only a few minutes, during which the contents of 
 the crater are raised bodily some 20 feet. 
 
CRATER OF OBLONG GEYSER 
 
 69 
 
70 
 
 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 The Grotto. — By far the most curious geyser cone 
 of all is that of the Grotto, situated close by the road- 
 side, some 500 feet northwest of the Giant. The various 
 cave-like openings in its peculiarly shaped cone give rise 
 to its name. Its eruptions take place about four times 
 daily, each display lasting about half an hour, though, 
 owing to its singular construction, its waters are not 
 thrown to any considerable height (scarcely 20 feet). 
 During eruptive periods, however, immense volumes of 
 steam escape with great force. Separated from the main 
 cone some 20 feet is a smaller crater which acts with the 
 main geyser during eruptions. 
 
 Riverside Geyser. — A short distance above the 
 wagon bridge across Firehole River is seen the Riverside 
 Geyser, whose cone is close to the water’s edge; it con- 
 sists of two chimney-like craters, the larger being at the 
 same time the higher. The geyser “plays” from the 
 lower opening only, though visitors are apt to arrive at 
 a reverse conclusion when viewing the locality between 
 periods of eruption. An overflow of water is a certain 
 indication of approaching activity, occurring about thirty 
 minutes previous to eruptions and continuing until the 
 outburst, which takes place about every eight hours, 
 throwing an arching column to a height of 80 or 90 feet, 
 the entire contents of the discharge falling into the river. 
 
 The Fan and Mortar. — On the east bank of the 
 Firehole, about 300 feet below Riverside Bridge, are lo- 
 cated these quite interesting geysers. The former has 
 an eruption every eight hours, generally following the 
 Riverside, its ejected waters spreading out in fan -shaped 
 jets, from the fact of its having two crater orifices which 
 throw out diverging streams. The pink geyserite form- 
 
TOUR OF THE PARK. 
 
 71 
 
 ing its crater is quite unlike that of any other geyser. 
 The Mortar, close by, is very uncertain as to its periods of 
 activity, and when viewed from the bridge above alluded 
 to, resembles in its eruptions that particular piece of ord- 
 nance from which it derives its name. 
 
 The Splendid. — One of the most remarkable geysers 
 in the Upper Basin is the Splendid. It is located fully 
 1,000 feet west of the Giant and a short distance south 
 from a prominent mound of geyserite, called, from its 
 color, the White Pyramid. The entire absence of any- 
 thing like cone structure, and the numerous crater-like 
 openings in its vicinity, puzzle one at first to locate the 
 geyser proper; however, the extreme western opening, 
 nearest the knoll and timber, is that from which the 
 Splendid plays; the most peculiar feature of which is, 
 that its eruptions occur at intervals of three hours, every 
 other day, only, and as it has the reputation of being a 
 frequent “spouter,” persons happening to visit it on its 
 quiet days are apt to find their expectations disappoint- 
 ingly blasted. When in action it throws a powerful 
 stream fully 150 feet in height, increasing in force very 
 perceptibly during the earlier stages of its eruptions, and 
 not reaching the climax for several minutes, apparently 
 maintaining its greatest vigor from five to eight minutes. 
 Quite unlike other geysers, the Splendid throws its stream 
 at a sharp angle instead of vertically, which fact, when 
 it was first discovered, caused it to be called The Comet; 
 this designation, however, soon gave way to its present 
 more appropriate appellation. 
 
 During the afternoon eruptions, if the sun be visible, 
 highly colored rainbows add to the rare beauty of the 
 displays, and when seen, as it occasionally is, in conjunc- 
 
Mi 
 
TOUR OF THE PARK. 
 
 73 
 
 tion with eruptive activity of other small geysers of the 
 Splendid group, produces a truly marvelous effect. No 
 perceptible change in the appearance of its crater follows 
 or precedes periods of activity, and even during its 
 quiet days the same violent boiling of its waters is always 
 the subject of noticeable comment. 
 
 The Punch Bowl. — Both the footpath and wagon 
 road leading westward from the Splendid toward Black 
 Sand Basin and Specimen Lake pass the Punch Bowl, 
 by far the handsomest spring of its peculiar class to be 
 found in the geyser region, if not in the world. Situated 
 on the summit of a small mound of silicious deposit, some 
 five feet above the general level, it is about 10 feet in 
 diameter, with a glittering rim of brilliantly colored for- 
 mation 1 8 inches in height. The constant boiling of its 
 contents, though only a small part of its surface is agi- 
 tated, as the bubbles of escaping steam and gas arise, 
 produces a wave-like undulation over the entire spring 
 and gives it a steady and not inconsiderable overflow. 
 A small cave-like opening on one side of the mound or 
 cone is very handsome and much admired, having the 
 appearance of being lined with satin of the rarest beauty 
 and texture. Early visitors to the Park during the sea- 
 sons of 1873 and 1875 speak of this spring as being an 
 active geyser, while during 1888 similar reports gained 
 currency. Nothing, however, is certainly known as to 
 the correctness of these reports, though they are highly 
 probable. 
 
 Black Sand Basin and Specimen Lake. — The 
 
 roadway continuing westward from the Punch Bowl ter- 
 minates at the Black Sand Spring. A footpath, how- 
 ever, leading to the hotel, may be followed, along which, 
 
74 
 
 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 on either hand, are to be seen many objects of interest, 
 including cones of extinct geysers surrounded by large 
 trees, and the Three Sisters, a trinity of springs of much 
 interest. West of Black Sand Basin, along Iron Spring 
 Creek, are hundreds of springs and small geysers well 
 worth a visit of inspection, if time and inclination are not 
 lacking. Dr. Peale’s description of Black Sand Spring 
 is interestingly comprehensive, and is as follows : “This 
 is one of the most beautiful springs in the Upper Basin. 
 It has a delicate rim, with toad-stool-like masses around 
 it. The basin slopes rather gently toward a central 
 aperture that, to the eye, appears to have no bottom. 
 The water in the spring has a delicate turquois tint, and 
 as the breeze sweeps across its surface, dispelling the 
 steam, the effect of the rippling of the water is very 
 beautiful. The sloping sides are covered with a light 
 brown crust; sometimes it is a rather dark cream color. 
 The funnel is about 40 feet in diameter, while the entire 
 space covered by the spring is about 55 x 60 feet, out- 
 side the rim of which is a border of pitch-stone (obsidian) 
 sand or gravel sloping 25 feet. From its west side flows 
 a considerable stream, forming a most beautiful channel, 
 in which the coloring presents a remarkable variety of 
 shades; the extremely delicate pinks are mingled with 
 equally delicate tints of saffron and yellow, and here and 
 there shades of green.” The overflow from this spring 
 spreads out over a large and very interesting area, called 
 Specimen Lake, which deserves more than a passing no- 
 tice. Absorption of the surrounding silica has destroyed 
 many of the trees in the vicinity, the dry, lifeless trunks 
 adding to the attractiveness of the place, geologically 
 speaking, by affording the appearance of petrifactions. 
 
TOUR OF THE PARK. 
 
 75 
 
 Castle Geyser. — The Castle is at once recognized, 
 as it occupies a very prominent position close by a point 
 of timber midway between the Grand Geyser and the 
 hotel. It is visible from nearly all points of the basin, 
 the main road being around its west and south sides. 
 The great amount of deposit, perhaps ioo feet in diame- 
 ter at its base, and the possession of the largest cone in 
 the whole region, while giving it an air of conspicuous- 
 ness, at the same time indicate that it is one of the oldest 
 active geysers in the Park. The broken condition of its 
 cone on the east side renders possible an easy ascent to 
 its summit, which is about 20 feet across. The orifice of 
 the geyser tube in the top of the cone is about three feet 
 in diameter, quite round, and is lined with a formation of 
 bright orange color. 
 
 Eruptions of the Castle occur at intervals of about 
 thirty hours, preceded by the occasional throwing out of 
 jets of water to the height of 15 or 20 feet, perhaps. 
 These premonitory symptoms of eruption generally con- 
 tinue five or six hours, when more violent demon- 
 strations, during which columns of water are shot up- 
 ward to a height of fully 75 feet, ensue, and, continuing 
 for half an hour or so, are followed by a “ steam period ’ ’ 
 similar to that of the Giantess. Several times each sea- 
 son it has eruptions of an unusual character, in which its 
 columns of water are thrown to twice their usual height 
 and its subsequent “steam periods” are proportionately 
 forcible. A violent boiling spring is situated near the 
 base of its cone, on the north side, and used to be a 
 favorite resort of the “camper-out” in earlier days, 
 as excellent coffee can be made in this spring in fifteen 
 minutes, and other edibles, requiring the action of boil- 
 

 76 
 
 
 CASTLE, BEE HIVE AND OLD FAITHFUL GEYSERS. 
 
TOUR OF THE PARR. 
 
 77 
 
 ing water to prepare them for the table, are well and 
 thoroughly cooked in a correspondingly short time. 
 
 The large, crested spring, ioo feet north from the 
 Castle, is usually very handsome. It generally is filled to 
 overflowing, and the bottom and edges of the channel 
 leading out of its north side are very highly and beautifully 
 colored. This spring is some 20 feet in diameter, and is 
 commonly known as Castle Well. 
 
 The road between the Lower and Upper Basins, on 
 the west side of Excelsior, is very fine; its long avenues, 
 here artistically constructed among native pines, combin- 
 ing grateful shade with pleasant fragrance; there, skirting 
 the rippling margin of a charming little lake; making it, 
 on the whole, one of the most enjoyable drives in the 
 Park. Several points of interest are passed by this road. 
 Among them, a short distance below Riverside Bridge, is 
 
 Morning Glory Spring, a silent pool, some 20 feet 
 in diameter, overflowing slightly at the west. The 
 peculiar shape of its funnel-like crater, whose walls are 
 delicately colored, together with the beautiful transpa- 
 rency of its waters, suggests its very appropriate name, 
 and it is best seen from a stage or carriage, a slightly ele- 
 vated point of observation affording a better view. Half 
 a mile below is 
 
 Artemisia Spring, situated between the road and 
 river, quite near the former, which is elevated some 15 
 or 20 feet above the spring. Stepping to the edge of the 
 bank, an excellent view of the crater is obtained, the 
 crystal clearness of its waters allowing a distinct view into 
 its apparently bottomless depths. The spring is 60 feet 
 in diameter and generally very little agitated, merely 
 overflowing. The surrounding formation, quite unlike 
 
78 
 
 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 that of any other spring, is as hard as flint, and of a 
 peculiar olive-green color. Although for the most part 
 very quiescent, this spring has occasional pulsations in 
 the nature of eruptions, at which times large quantities 
 of water are forced out, fairly flooding the formation be- 
 tween it and the river. These eruptions are, however, 
 extremely irregular, too few of them having been wit- 
 nessed, in fact, to render the regularity of its periods of 
 activity a matter of record or even of authentic rumor. 
 The bank of the Firehole, some 30 feet high at this 
 point, is the most highly colored section of the river to 
 be found in the Upper Basin. The best view is obtained 
 from the bridle path on the west side of the river. This 
 path leads south from the Splendid, crossing the Fire- 
 hole just above its confluence with Iron Spring Creek, 
 near which it joins the main road. 
 
 Biscuit Basin. — This portion of the Upper Basin is 
 on the west side of Firehole River, and on the north side 
 of Iron Spring Creek, being about one mile below 
 Riverside Bridge. The somewhat difficult ford across 
 Firehole River prevents many from visiting this very in- 
 teresting locality at the present time; however, it is 
 hoped that the construction of a substantial wagon road 
 will soon overcome this difficulty. The principal attrac- 
 tion of Biscuit Basin is Sapphire Pool, whose highly 
 ornamented margin suggested the basin’s rather odd 
 name. Hundreds of small, symmetrical, biscuit-like 
 knobs of olive green formation surround the spring, 
 which is of the variety known as pulsating or breathing 
 springs (geysers in fact), the constant ebb and flow of 
 its waters now rising threateningly and flooding the mar- 
 gin of hard, biscuit-shaped masses, from one to another 
 
SAPPHIRE POOL, BISCUIT BASIN. 
 
 
 79 
 
8o 
 
 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARE. 
 
 of which one must pick his way in order to get a good 
 view of the pool itself; now gently and noiselessly reced- 
 ing, presenting, the while, a spectacle as curious as it 
 certainly is interesting. A few feet to the west is 
 
 Soda Geyser, whose eruptions, occurring with the 
 remarkable frequency of from three to five minutes, ren- 
 der this little geyser extremely interesting, particularly as 
 it manifests considerable power, throwing its jets of water 
 and steam to a height of 25 or 30 feet. 
 
 Scarce 500 feet further west are the Black Pearl and 
 Silver Globe. The former has a beautiful basin, studded 
 thickly with what at first appear to be black pearls, each 
 about one quarter of an inch in diameter. A curious 
 feature of this little “spouter” is the fact that its forma- 
 tion surrounds the roots and stump of a tree, completely 
 encrusting the same with its rich, black ornamentation. 
 
 The Silver Globe derives its name from the constant 
 rising to its surface of large, silvery globules or bubbles of 
 gas or steam, which, of course, immediately disappear on 
 reaching the air. These and many other equally inter- 
 esting points of interest will tend to make this locality de- 
 servedly popular when more generally accessible. 
 
TOUR OF THE PARR. 
 
 8l 
 
 GEYSER TIME TABLE. 
 
 A RECORD OF THE ERUPTIONS OF THE ACTIVE GEYSERS IN THE 
 UPPER GEYSER BASIN, YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 NAME. 
 
 HEIGHT 
 
 FT. 
 
 INTERVALS OF 
 ERUPTION. 
 
 DURATION. 
 
 Old Faithful, 
 
 150 
 
 65 minutes. 
 
 4 min. 
 
 Bee Hive, 
 
 200 
 
 10 to 30 hours. 
 
 8 “ 
 
 Giantess 
 
 150 
 
 14 days. 
 
 12 hrs. 
 
 Lion, 
 
 60 
 
 24 hours. • 
 
 8 min. 
 
 Lioness, 
 
 80 • 
 
 Irregular. 
 
 10 “ 
 
 Cub 
 
 12 
 
 Frequent. 
 
 20 “ 
 
 Surprise 
 
 IOO 
 
 Irregular. 
 
 2 “ 
 
 Spasmodic 
 
 40 
 
 Irregular. 
 
 20 “ 
 
 Sawmill, 
 
 35 
 
 Very frequent. 
 
 30 “ 
 
 Grand 
 
 200 
 
 1 15 to 20 hours. 
 
 30 “ 
 
 Turban, 
 
 40 
 
 Following the Grand. 
 
 20 “ 
 
 Riverside, 
 
 100 
 
 8 hours. 
 
 15 “ 
 
 Mortar 
 
 60 
 
 8 hours. 
 
 6 “ 
 
 Fan, 
 
 70 
 
 8 hours. 
 
 10 “ 
 
 Artemisia 
 
 150 
 
 Irregular. 
 
 10 “ 
 
 Atomizer, 
 
 20 
 
 Irregular. 
 
 10 “ 
 
 Soda 
 
 50 
 
 5 minutes. 
 
 1 “ 
 
 Grotto, 
 
 30 
 
 4 hours. 
 
 30 “ 
 
 Giant 
 
 250 
 
 6 days. 
 
 90 “ 
 
 Oblong, 
 
 30 
 
 8 hours. 
 
 4 “ 
 
 Splendid, 
 
 200 
 
 3 hours every other day. 
 
 10 “ 
 
 Comet 
 
 60 
 
 Irregular. 
 
 5 “ 
 
 Castle, 
 
 150 
 
 24 to 30 hours. 
 
 25 “ 
 
 Mud 
 
 30 
 
 Irregular. 
 
 5 “ 
 
 Cliff, 
 
 IOO 
 
 Irregular. 
 
 8 “ 
 
 Lone Star 
 
 75 
 
 40 minutes. 
 
 10 “ 
 
 Chinaman, 
 
 40 
 
 Irregular. 
 
 2 “ 
 
 6 
 
82 
 
 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 HAYDEN VALLEY ROAD, FROM LOWER BASIN 
 TO FALLS. 
 
 From the Lower Basin there is a wagon road lead- 
 ing to the falls and canyon, over Mary’s Mountain (so 
 called) and through Hayden Valley, a description of the 
 route being given below, though since the opening of the 
 new road from the Upper Basin to Yellowstone Lake, by 
 way of Shoshone Basin and Lake, the Mary’s Mountain 
 road has not been traveled so much as formerly. 
 
 The road through Hayden Valley is due east from 
 the Lower Basin Hotel, following the valley of the east 
 fork of Firehole River about five miles, when it ascends 
 the “mountain divide,’’ which separates the headwaters 
 of the Missouri and Yellowstone Rivers. This is not the 
 regularly constructed Government road, having been first 
 opened by General Howard in 1877 while in pursuit of 
 the hostile Nez Perces Indians, who passed through the 
 Park at that time. The only really difficult portion of 
 this road is that on the west side of the mountain, where 
 it becomes necessary for passengers to lighten their con- 
 veyances by walking. On the summit of the mountain 
 is Mary’s Lake, the highest body of water in the “Re- 
 serve,” nearly round in shape, and about one-fourth of a 
 mile across. The waters of this elevated lake are un- 
 doubtedly supplied by the melting of the great fall of 
 snow upon this “range,” aided by mountain springs. 
 It is surrounded by a dense growth of pines, its well- 
 defined shores being of washed-lava formation, and its 
 outlet, at the southeast, — the head of the east fork of 
 Firehole River. 
 
HAYDEN VALLEY, BETWEEN LAKE AND FALLS. 
 
 83 
 
YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARR. 
 
 $4 
 
 Passing along the crest of this mountain range for a 
 couple of miles, one notes, along the way, numerous in- 
 dications of hot water and sulphur springs; Alum Creek 
 is crossed (whose disagreeable waters no animal will 
 drink), its source being readily traceable to several small 
 lakes and springs of milky colored water on the very 
 summit of the “divide.” 
 
 The descent of the mountain on the eastern side is 
 more gentle, requiring four miles of travel in order to 
 reach Hayden Valley. On the way, the commanding 
 view afforded of the grand valley of the Yellowstone 
 and its mountain environments is exceptionally fine. To 
 the north is the Washburn range, and stretching away 
 in the distance, to the eastward, the Yellowstone range, 
 whose towering Pilot Knob and Saddle Mountain, full 
 50 miles distant, are plainly visible. 
 
 The Trout Creek Dinner Station is a canvas hotel 
 situated on the east side of the mountain where the road 
 enters Hayden Valley. It is one of the temporary sta- 
 tions constructed for the benefit of travelers, and an ex- 
 cellent camping place. 
 
 Hayden Valley was named in honor of Dr. F. V. 
 Hayden of the United States Geological Survey. It ex- 
 tends nearly to the Grand Canyon on the north and 
 along the Yellowstone southward to Mud Geysers, aver- 
 aging about 12 miles in width. This portion of the 
 Park is the winter habitat of its few remaining buffalo, 
 some 200 of which wintered here during 1889-90. To 
 many this part of the Park is very interesting. The 
 road winds nearly across the valley to the Yellowstone 
 River, forming a junction with the well -constructed 
 wagon road between the falls and Yellowstone Lake. 
 
TOUR OF THE PARK. 
 
 85 
 
 UPPER GEYSER BASIN TO YELLOWSTONE LAKE. 
 
 VIA SHOSHONE LAKE AND GEYSER BASIN. 
 
 The construction of the stage road from the Upper 
 Basin to Yellowstone Lake, by way of Shoshone Lake 
 and Geysers, has added much to the attractiveness of the 
 Park tour, rendering easily accessible to visitors a new 
 and extensive region, charming in scenery and but little 
 behind the great geyser basins in point of marvelous 
 phenomena. 
 
 Leading up the Madison River (being the same 
 stream known as Firehole River during its meandering 
 of the geyser basins) the road crosses the river, and 
 climbs a gentle ascent to 
 
 Kepler’s Cascades (two miles from the Upper Basin 
 Hotel), whose waters leap from shelf to shelf of a rocky 
 chasm in a series of enchanting falls, aggregating 100 to 
 150 feet in height, whose charms are enhanced by the 
 dark background of forest on either hand. From this 
 point the roadway continues up the Madison to 
 
 Lone Star Geyser, three miles further on. The 
 cone of this geyser is about 10 feet in height by 12 in 
 diameter at its base, tapering slightly toward its summit, 
 which is fully six feet across; its crater consisting of one 
 large central opening surrounded by numerous small 
 orifices from all of which water is thrown during an 
 eruption. The Lone Star plays every half hour, each al- 
 ternate display being the better, its boiling contents 
 being thrown in a fine spray, mingled with steam, to a 
 height of 60 feet. The chief beauty of this geyser lies 
 in its cone, which is striped, vertically, with bands of 
 white, lavender and brown, intermixed with varying 
 
TOUR OF THE PARK. 
 
 87 
 
 shades of yellow, and is completely covered with an 
 almost endless variety of elegant pearl-like beads. In 
 the immediate vicinity are quite a number of small but 
 highly colored and interesting springs. 
 
 Soon after passing Lone Star, the road deflects to the 
 eastward and climbs the Continental Watershed, sur- 
 mounting which, it descends to the headwaters of Sho- 
 shone Creek, and follows its course to the Geyser Basin 
 at the western extremity of Shoshone Lake, distant 
 from the Upper Basin (by road) about 12 miles. Sepa- 
 rated from the lake-shore by low, timbered hills of highly 
 colored clay formation and of crater-like appearance, is 
 the geyser basin proper, comprising an area of about a 
 square mile. This basin, situated upon an irregular 
 plateau of geyser formation, contains many curious and 
 beautiful springs (356 in all) and several geysers, chief 
 among the latter being 
 
 Union Geyser, which has three cones, the central 
 being the largest and principal crater; this cone is three 
 feet high, and about 18 feet in circumference at its base, 
 formed of beautifully beaded geyserite, in color varying 
 from yellow to drab, with pearl- tinted intermingling, at 
 the top of which is a triangular orifice, whose sides are 
 about two feet in length, the interior of the crater being 
 lined with irregularly rounded masses of brownish-yellow 
 geyserite. 
 
 The north cone, next in size, is about half the height 
 of its neighbor, and has an orifice measuring about 1 foot 
 by 2^/2 feet, of similar formation, but darker colored. 
 
 The south cone is the smallest of the three, being 
 only about a foot above the general level of the mound 
 or platform of the geyser. It has, however, two small 
 
SHOSHONE LAKE. 
 
TOUR OF THE PARK. 
 
 89 
 
 openings at the top, from both of which water and steam 
 play during eruptive periods. The eruptions of the 
 Union, while somewhat irregular, occur usually at inter- 
 vals of three hours, and continue twenty to forty minutes. 
 Eruptions begin with a few preliminary puffs of steam, 
 columns of water following almost immediately; those 
 from the central cone rising to a height of 100 to 125 
 feet; those from the north cone about half as high, while 
 the jets from the small orifices of the south cone attain the 
 height of only a few feet. An interesting steam period, 
 accompanied by a hoarse, roaring sound, follows the 
 ejection of the water from the central cone, but, curiously 
 enough, water columns continue to play from the north 
 cone during the greater part of this steam period. 
 The Gourd, Shield, Minute Man, Lion, Little Bulger, 
 Bead, Bronze and Little Giant are among other note- 
 worthy geysers of this basin, while among the de- 
 lightful springs are the Brown Sponge, Velvet, Marble 
 Cliff, Kitchen, Coral, and numerous others, named and 
 unnamed. 
 
 Here is located another of the hotels of the Park, 
 and boating may be enjoyed by those who desire. 
 
 Shoshone is a typical mountain lake, surrounded by 
 high wooded hills, with here and there little coves and 
 strips of sandy beach, though in places the shores are 
 marshy. Seen from the higher ground, it has the appear- 
 ance of two lakes, each of fair size, connected by a strait 
 about half a mile in width. Its extreme length does not 
 exceed six miles, and its widest part four miles. It is, like 
 its larger sister (Yellowstone Lake), a great resort for 
 migratory waterfowl, large flocks of which may be seen 
 at almost any time during September or October, skim- 
 
90 
 
 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 ming the rippling surface of the lake, or diving beneath 
 its blue waves in pursuit of food. 
 
 The road from Shoshone Geyser Basin to the Hot 
 Spring Basin, located at the western extremity of Thumb 
 Bay (Yellowstone Lake), distant in a northeasterly direc- 
 tion about 1 8 miles, as the road runs, skirts along the 
 south shore of Shoshone Lake throughout its entire 
 length, crossing (a little more than half way around) 
 
 Moose Creek, and at the extreme eastern point of the 
 lake, Lewis River, which forms its outlet, emptying into 
 Lewis Lake, a few miles to the southeast. While some- 
 what broad, this stream is generally shallow, and, having 
 a hard bottom, is readily fordable at most points. Along 
 its east bank may still be seen the well-defined trail made 
 by the presidential party in 1882, which is apparently 
 almost as fresh as when the Government mules left their 
 hoof-prints in the soft, yielding soil. 
 
 Immediately after crossing Lewis River, the road be- 
 gins climbing the Continental Divide, which bends like a 
 bow around Shoshone Lake to the north, east and west, 
 
 . . Z 
 
 but so gradual is the ascent, that the summit is passed 
 before one is aware of it, and glimpses of the great lake 
 to the eastward are caught through the pine forest which 
 stretches away on every hand beyond the limit of vision. 
 
YELLOWSTONE LAKE. HOT SPRING CONE 
 
 9 l 
 
92 
 
 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 YELLOWSTONE LAKE AND VICINITY. 
 
 It is 1 8 miles from Shoshone Geyser Basin to the 
 hotel at the Hot Spring Basin, which stretches for nearly 
 three miles along the extreme western margin of Thumb 
 Bay. There are no less than seven hot spring basins 
 surrounding Yellowstone Lake, containing in the aggre- 
 gate more than 100 springs, great and small, of hot 
 silicious water, but those of the west arm, or Thumb 
 Bay, as it is called, are by far the most interesting. 
 There are 66 springs and paint pots in this group 
 (the temperature of whose waters average about 190 
 degrees Fahrenheit) and several geyser cones; one of 
 which rises above the lake surface just a few feet from the 
 shore, standing upon which one may catch trout, and, 
 dropping them into the hot water in the crater of the 
 cone, cook them without removal from the hook. Some 
 of these springs have a considerable overflow, caused by 
 what seems to be a forcing up of their contents, which 
 rise and fall alternately like the bosom of a sleeping 
 giant; these are called breathing, or pulsating, springs, 
 in contradistinction to those whose waters maintain the 
 same quiet level. 
 
 The water of nearly all these springs possesses the 
 same delicate blue tints noticeable in other portions of 
 the Park. The lake-shore at this point consists of slop- 
 ing terrace-like layers of silicious deposit, which extends 
 some distance back from the water’s edge, and even out 
 into the lake. Most of the springs are scattered over 
 this formation, back a little way from the lake, though 
 several are close to the water’s edge, and a few, even, 
 may be seen beneath the lake surface, occasional points 
 of bubbling betraying their presence. 
 
TOUR OF THE PARK. 
 
 93 
 
 Some 400 or 500 feet back from the lake, and nearly 
 opposite the “fishing-cone,” is a paint pot basin, similar 
 to that near Fountain Geyser, in the Lower Basin. 
 
 This basin is about 50 feet in diameter, and is a seeth- 
 ing mass of beautifully colored and finely granulated 
 clay, the prevailing tints being pink and red in varying 
 shades, though creamy white and pale blue colors are 
 noticed. Around the edges of the basin are a dozen 
 or more hollow mud cones, 2 to 3 feet in height, 
 from which discharges of mud occasionally occur. By 
 many this basin is considered the most attractive of all 
 the paint pots of the Park. 
 
 At this point tourists will find facilities for bathing, 
 boating and fishing, and will have a choice of two 
 routes to the large hotel at the outlet of the lake (16 
 miles distant by road from the Thumb Hotel), viz., 
 a 20 mile ride down the lake by steamer, or by regular 
 stage. 
 
 Hotel at the Outlet. — This spacious and elegantly 
 appointed hotel, erected in 1889, tends greatly toward 
 making Yellowstone Lake the resort, par excellence, of 
 the Park. Here everything is so arranged that guests 
 can spend the entire season, if they so desire, making 
 short, easy trips of sight seeing or exploration to all 
 points of the great reserve. The falls and canyon are dis- 
 tant but 18 miles, a well-constructed road leading thither; 
 the Great Geyser basins are scattered along a stage 
 route, whose extreme length is not above 40 miles from 
 the hotel at Thumb Bay, and some five miles south- 
 westerly, just off the main road leading from the Outlet 
 to the Thumb, is an arch of stone spanning a creek, 
 forming a natural bridge; while to the eastward lies the 
 
94 
 
 Yellowstone National park. 
 
 Hoodoo Region, or Goblin Land, a weirdly wild 
 region, as yet visited by only a few sportsmen and am- 
 bitious explorers, but which time and the construction of 
 roads will render accessible to all. 
 
 At present, a better field for exploration would be 
 difficult to find, even though it lies at the threshold, 
 almost, of one of the most cosmopolitan of American 
 watering-place hotels. 
 
 To visit any, or all, of the points of interest circum- 
 jacent to this grand mountain lake, vehicles of all kinds, 
 saddle and pack-animals, guides, rowboats, sailboats 
 and steamers are ever at command, and as for trout fish- 
 ing, he who has never cast a “fly” into the blue depths 
 of this vast natural “trout preserve” knows little or 
 nothing of its delights. 
 
 Fifteen by twenty miles in size, of irregular outline, 
 somewhat resembling the human hand, and embracing 
 an area of about 150 square miles, this is the largest 
 body of water in North America at so great an altitude 
 — 7,788 feet above sea level. 
 
 Several islands dot its surface, the largest being 
 Stephenson’s, near the south end, and Frank’s, midway 
 of the lake, and its very considerable depth (from 5 to 
 50 fathoms) renders navigation practicable and safe. The 
 river Yellowstone is, at once, its principal affluent and 
 sole outlet, its upper portion draining a considerable area 
 tributary to the lake on the southeast, and the vast body 
 of water thus accumulated in this natural mountain reser- 
 voir serving not only to furnish a never-failing supply for 
 one of the grandest of the Missouri’s tributaries, but 
 supplying the means for the successful irrigation of the 
 entire Lower Yellowstone Valley. 
 
TOUR OP TttE PARR. 
 
 95 
 
 YELLOWSTONE LAKE TO FALLS AND CANYON. 
 
 Some five miles from the hotel at the outlet, on the 
 road to the falls and canyon, are situated, on either 
 hand, 
 
 Mud Geysers, large craters filled with blue, pasty 
 mud, one and all emitting odors far from agreeable, 
 while a few rods to the left, at the base of a cliff, is 
 
 Mud Caldron, or Mud Volcano, as it is sometimes 
 called, whose funnel-shaped crater is 30 feet in depth, 
 formed by mud ejected from below through a cave-like 
 opening, out of which a sickening, leaden-colored mass 
 of mud, of the consistency of soft mortar, is constantly 
 belched, accompanied by dull, muffled sounds, and in a 
 manner at once repulsive and fascinating. The strange 
 phenomenon presented by the foliage in the vicinity, 
 covered as it is with a coating of mud, is accounted for 
 by the theory that it is carried there in minute particles 
 by the action of escaping steam, and not as the result of 
 eruptions, as some suppose. 
 
 The road follows the valley of the Yellowstone all 
 the way to the falls, passing (near Mud Geysers) the 
 ford crossed by the fleeing Nez Perces, following their 
 memorable raid eastward into the Missouri Valley here- 
 tofore mentioned; traversing Hayden Valley on the way, 
 crossing Alum Creek, and passing close by 
 
 Sulphur Mountain, or Crater Hills, consisting of 
 a group of isolated hills or “buttes,” each about 150 feet 
 high, of which a splendid view is obtained from the road- 
 way as it skirts along their western base. Large blocks 
 of detached rock are scattered about, in all of which a 
 large percentage of pure sulphur is noticeable. The fumes 
 
g6 
 
 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 arising from the various vents are exceedingly disagree- 
 able. The chief attraction is a large boiling spring at the 
 base of the mountain, on the west side. Of this, Capt. 
 G. C. Doane, U. S. A., has given the following graphic 
 description: “The greatest spring, in appearance, lies 
 
 at the base of the highest hill, and is intensely sulphurous, 
 great clouds of vapor continually escaping from it. It 
 measures 15 x 20 feet on the inside, and its waters boil 
 up constantly from 3 to 7 feet in height; the whole sur- 
 face rising and falling, occasionally, with a flux and reflux 
 of four feet additional, overflowing its basin, and receding 
 every few minutes. The basin is built up with a solid rim, 
 or lining, of pure, crystallized sulphur, four feet in width 
 all around the edge, probably amounting to forty tons in 
 weight. The water is clear, but of a whitish cast, and 
 above the boiling point, steam being evaporated from its 
 surface. A small channel leads down the slope, and for 
 several hundred feet its bed is encrusted with a sulphur 
 deposit, showing that the spring occasionally flows a con- 
 siderable quantity of water, the deposit being from 3 to 
 10 inches deep.” 
 
 On the west side of the road are numerous mud cal- 
 drons and springs, the contents of which are varied, some 
 being of thick mud, others of leaden-hued water, ail in- 
 cessantly agitated and throwing upon their surrounding 
 edges a finely mixed muddy deposit. The road from 
 Sulphur Mountain to the Canyon Hotel (some four miles 
 distant) passes over a rolling country, and skirts along 
 the banks of Yellowstone River until nearly to the Upper 
 F'alls, when it turns from the river toward the hotel. 
 
RAPIDS ABOVE UPPER FALLS 
 
 7 
 
 97 
 
9 8 
 
 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 UPPER FALLS OF THE YELLOWSTONE. 
 
 About a quarter of a mile above the falls, the current 
 is very rapid, tumbling and rushing over a succession of 
 cascades and around masses of rock left surrounded in 
 mid- stream. Just before reaching the brink of the falls 
 the river makes an abrupt turn to the eastward, from 
 which fact an unobstructed view of the former cannot be 
 obtained from its hotel side. Above the falls a jutting 
 point of rocks afford an excellent view of the rapids and 
 the foaming waters rushing on over the precipice itself. 
 The Upper Falls have a perpendicular drop of 140 feet, 
 and the water, striking the shelving rock formation at the 
 bottom of the abyss, shoots out rocket-like columns 
 plainly seen from the ledge above. A quarter of a mile 
 below the river takes another leap of 360 feet, called the 
 Lower Falls. The water between, while seemingly 
 placid, from points of observation most readily accessible 
 and therefore usually visited, is exceedingly rapid, 
 though its remarkable clearness affords a view of its 
 apparently smooth, rocky bottom the entire distance. A 
 footpath leads to the bottom of the Upper Falls, where 
 very fine trout fishing may be enjoyed, and midway be- 
 tween this point and the Lower Falls, Cascade Creek 
 enters the river. 
 
 Cascade Falls are directly below the bridge which 
 spans the creek. Their aggregate fall, including the 
 cascades above, is about 130 feet, and a ladder to Grotto 
 Pool allows an inspection of them, though these minor 
 attractions possess little, if any, charm to the sight- seer 
 when so near a sight justly rated among the grandest 
 among earth’s many marvelously grand scenic displays. 
 

 TOUR OF THE PARK. 
 
 99 
 
 GREAT FALLS AND GRAND CANYON OF THE 
 YELLOWSTONE. 
 
 A short distance beyond Cascade Creek the road 
 passes a point from which the first glimpse of the canyon 
 is obtained. Inspiration Point may be seen some three 
 miles away. The eye follows the river’s course to the 
 brink of the Great Falls, where it suddenly disappears, 
 to be seen again some distance below, meandering, like a 
 slender ribbon of silver, between frowning canyon walls. 
 A sign-board points out the trail to the brink below, 
 following which, on foot, the visitor soon stands upon a 
 natural platform of rock upon the very edge of the can- 
 yon, overlooking the awful plunge of seething waters. 
 At this point the river, though some 250 feet in width a 
 short distance above, narrows to just 74 feet, and while 
 the view is grand almost beyond expression, it is not the 
 best to be obtained of the falls, Point Lookout and Red 
 Rock being regarded the best points from which to 
 see them; however, probably no better view, certainly 
 none more comprehensive, of the canyon is obtainable 
 than that to be had from the platform overlooking the 
 brink of the falls. Gazing down the canyon, Point Look- 
 out is seen rising from 1,200 to 1,500 feet above the 
 river. Almost directly opposite, on the right-hand side 
 of the canyon, is Artist’s Point, so called from being 
 the position selected by Mr. Thomas Moran from which 
 to paint his celebrated picture, which may be seen hang- 
 ing in the nation’s capitol at Washington. 
 
 Inspiration Point, three miles below, is hidden 
 from view by an intervening bend, but a vast stretch of 
 rugged canyon wall may be seen on either hand. The 
 
POINT LOOKOUT AND GRIiAT FALLS. 
 
 lOO 
 
TOUR OF THE PARK. 
 
 IOI 
 
 only possible footing to be found in the canyon below the 
 falls, and from which the latter may be clearly seen, is on 
 the right, immediately at the foot of the falls. This 
 point has been reached by but few, and then only by the 
 aid of 800 feet of rope, by which the adventurous ex- 
 plorer is assisted in descending and ascending the almost 
 perpendicular cliffs. The subject of the frontispiece 
 illustration was secured from this position. To reach the 
 south and east side of the canyon it is necessary to cross 
 the river above the Upper Falls, which may be readily 
 and safely accomplished by boat, and ere long will be 
 made possible by means of a foot-bridge to be con- 
 structed at their brink. The descent of the Grand Can- 
 yon will undoubtedly be made possible, at no very distant 
 day, by means of an elevator. 
 
 Leaving the brink of the Lower Falls, the trail is 
 ascended back up the canyon’s side, past the sign-board 
 to its top, from which point, directly above the verge of 
 the Lower Falls, the river and Upper Falls come promi- 
 nently into view, and as one passes along the dizzy edge 
 of the canyon toward Point Lookout, glimpses are caught 
 through the timber of the Great Falls a full 1,000 feet 
 below. Point Lookout is, by trail, about half a mile 
 below the falls, and commands altogether the best com- 
 bined view of the Great Falls and Canyon, though Red 
 Rock, just below, and to which a perfectly safe trail 
 leads down the ravine under Point Lookout, affords the 
 best view of the falls themselves possible for tourists to 
 obtain. 
 
 Inspiration Point is considered by many to be, of 
 all points, the best from which to see and appreciate the 
 vast immensity of the canyon, and although it is two 
 
102 
 
 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 miles from Point Lookout, the grandeur of the view, 
 when considered together with the various other points 
 and projections from which a more or less extended in- 
 spection of the canyon may be made, well repays one 
 for the extra effort required to see and inspect them. 
 Inspiration Point is 1,500 feet above the river, and would 
 afford an excellent distant view of both canyon and falls, 
 were it not for Point Lookout intervening. Looking 
 down the stream the view of the canyon from this point 
 is especially fine, though the brilliant coloring of its 
 walls is not so noticeable as above the point. Beside the 
 trail a short distance from this locality may be seen a large 
 boulder of granite, a most interesting relic of glacial 
 deposit, said by geologists to have been stranded here 
 during the “ice period.” 
 
 The opposite side of the canyon possesses many 
 excellent points from which to observe both canyon and 
 falls, giving the reverse effect of lights and shadows, 
 which in itself is highly interesting. Particularly is this 
 true of Artist’s Point, from which an unobstructed view 
 of both canyon and falls may be had, and when rendered 
 more accessible, will be fully as popular as the points 
 visited to-day. The banks of the river throughout the 
 entire length of the canyon (some 10 miles) are lined 
 with hot springs, and the great quantity of hot water 
 poured from them into the river current has the effect of 
 increasing the temperature of the river fully 20 degrees 
 between the Lower Falls and a short distance below In- 
 spiration Point. Quite a powerful little geyser is noticed 
 on the south bank, playing from a knob-like deposit 
 some 50 feet above the surface of the river, and a short 
 distance up stream from Inspiration Point, above which 
 
TOUR OF THE PARK. 
 
 103 
 
 the canyon walls rise in a sheer, perpendicular height of 
 fully 1,000 feet. Field glasses are quite necessary to 
 anything like a satisfactory inspection of these numerous 
 attractions, among which an eagle’s nest, situated upon 
 an inaccessible crag, fully compensates for the trouble of 
 bringing a glass, in the interesting study it affords the 
 beholder. With respect to scenic effect, that obtained 
 in the morning from Inspiration Point and that in the 
 afternoon from the brink of the Great Falls are con- 
 sidered by many the best. However, each and every 
 hour produce an effect of light and shade possible for no 
 artist to portray in faithful detail. 
 
 Believing that the purposes of a guide book are best 
 subserved by confining its scope to plain descriptive 
 statement, calculated to enable the reader to readily find, 
 and recognize when found, the subjects concerning which 
 it treats, all attempts at “word pictures’’ have been 
 rigidly excluded from this little hand-book. It would 
 fail, however, to even faintly convey to the mind of the 
 intending visitor, for whose benefit, of course, special 
 reference was had in its inception, anything like an intel- 
 ligent idea of the wonders of the National Park, if it 
 neglected to acquaint him with the expressed opinions 
 of some among the many distinguished litterateurs , scien- 
 tists, artists and others who have carefully inspected this 
 region. 
 
 The following interestingly graphic, and, withal, faith- 
 ful, pen picture of the Grand Canyon and Great Falls of 
 the Yellowstone River, by the Rev. Dr. Way land Hoyt, 
 is subjoined for this purpose: 
 
GRAND CANYON OF THE YELLOWSTONE. 
 
TOUR OF THE PARK. 
 
 105 
 
 ‘‘Well, we have reached Cascade Creek at last; and 
 a beautiful grove of trees, beneath whose shade a clear 
 stream, whose waters are free from the nauseous taste of 
 alkali, furnished a delightful place to camp. Now — dis- 
 mounting and seeing that your horse is well cared for, 
 while the men are unloading the pack-mules and pitch- 
 ing the tents — walk up that trail winding up that hillside; 
 follow it for a little among the solemn pines, and then 
 pass out from the tree shadows and take your stand upon 
 that jutting rock, clinging to it well meanwhile and be- 
 ing very sure of your footing, for your head will surely 
 grow dizzy, and there opens before you one of the most 
 stupendous scenes of nature, the Lower Falls and the aw- 
 ful Canyon of the Yellowstone. 
 
 “And now, where shall I begin, and how shall I, in 
 anywise, describe this tremendous sight; its overpower- 
 ing grandeur, and, at the same time, its inexpressible 
 beauty ? 
 
 “Look yonder! Those are the Lower Falls of the 
 Yellowstone. They are not the grandest in the world, but 
 there are none more beautiful. There is not the breadth 
 and dash of Niagara, nor is there the enormous depth of 
 leap of some of the waterfalls of the Yosemite. But here is 
 majesty of its own kind, and beauty too. On either side 
 are vast pinnacles of sculptured rock. There, where the 
 rock opens for the river, its waters are compressed from 
 a width of 200 feet between the Upper and Lower Falls, 
 to less than 100 feet where it takes the plunge. The 
 shelf of rock over which it leaps is absolutely level. The 
 water seems to wait a moment on its verge; then it passes, 
 with a single bound, 360 feet, into the gorge below. It is 
 a sheer, unbroken, compact, shining mass of silver foam. 
 
io6 
 
 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 But your eyes are all the while distracted from the fall 
 itself, great and beautiful as it is, to its marvelous setting; 
 to the surprising, overmastering canyon into which the 
 river leaps, and through which it flows, dwindling to but 
 a foamy ribbon there in its appalling depths. As you 
 cling here to this jutting rock the falls are already many 
 hundred feet below you. The falls unroll their whiteness 
 down amid the canyon glooms. * * * * * 
 
 These rocky sides are almost perpendicular; indeed, in 
 many places the boiling springs have gouged them out 
 so as to leave overhanging cliffs and tables at the top. 
 Take a stone and throw it over; you have to wait long 
 before you hear it strike. Nothing more awful have I 
 ever seen than the yawning of that chasm. And the 
 stillness, solemn as midnight, profound as death. The 
 water dashing there, as in a kind of agony, against those 
 rocks, you cannot hear. The mighty distance lays the 
 finger of silence on its white lips. You are oppressed 
 with a sense of danger. It is as though the vastness 
 would soon force you from the rock to which you cling. 
 The silence, the sheer depth, the gloom, burden you. 
 It is a relief to feel the firm earth beneath your feet again, 
 as you carefully crawl back from your perching place. 
 
 “ But this is not all, nor is the half yet told. As soon 
 as you can stand it, go out on that jutting rock again and 
 mark the sculpturing of God upon those vast and solemn 
 walls. By dash of wind and wave, by forces of the frost, 
 by file of snow plunge and glacier and mountain torrent, 
 by the hot breath of boiling springs, those walls have 
 been cut into the most various and surprising shapes. I 
 have seen the ‘middle age’ castles along the Rhine; 
 there those castles are reproduced exactly. I have seen 
 
TOUR OF THE PARK. 
 
 107 
 
 the soaring summit of the great cathedral spires in the 
 country beyond the sea ; there they stand in prototype, 
 only loftier and sublimer. 
 
 “And then, of course, and almost beyond all else, 
 you are fascinated by the magnificence and utter opu- 
 lence of color. Those are not simple gray and hoary 
 depths, and reaches and domes and pinnacles of sullen 
 rock. The whole gorge flames. It is as though rain- 
 bows had fallen out of the sky and hung themselves 
 there like glorious banners. The underlying color is the 
 clearest yellow; this flushes onward into orange. Down 
 at the base the deepest mosses unroll their draperies of 
 the most vivid green; browns, sweet and soft, do their 
 blending; white rocks stand spectral; turrets of rock 
 shoot up as crimson, as though they were drenched 
 through with blood. It is a wilderness of color. It is 
 impossible that even the pencil of an artist can tell it. 
 What you would call, accustomed to the softer tints of 
 nature, a great exaggeration, would be the utmost tame- 
 ness compared with the reality. It is as if the most 
 glorious sunset you ever saw had been caught and held 
 upon that resplendent, awful gorge. 
 
 “ Through nearly all the hours of that afternoon until 
 the sunset shadows came, and afterward, amid the moon- 
 beams, I waited there, clinging to that rock, jutting out 
 into that overpowering, gorgeous chasm. I was appalled 
 and fascinated, afraid, and yet compelled to cling there. 
 It was an epoch in my life.” 
 
io8 
 
 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 MOUNT WASHBURN. 
 
 This, the observatory of the Park, lies between the 
 Grand Canyon Hotel and Tower Falls, with which it is 
 at present connected by two bridle-paths, and, soon will 
 be, by a substantial wagon road. It is about io miles 
 from the Grand Canyon Hotel to the summit of the 
 mountain, which may be readily reached from either 
 trail; that between the mountain and river is the one 
 most traveled. It passes along the edge of the canyon, 
 from Inspiration Point, for a mile or more, gradually 
 drawing away from the river toward the mountainside, 
 through dense forests and open parks, until the highest 
 part of the trail is reached, fully 4,000 feet above the river. 
 If it is desired to ascend to the summit of the mountain, 
 the trail is left at this point, horses being able to climb 
 the mountain brow without special fatigue. If the climb 
 to the summit be deemed undesirable, the trail is con- 
 tinued to Tower Falls, the descent being gradual to the 
 valley of Antelope Creek, which is followed nearly to the 
 falls, Mt. Washburn being about half way between Grand 
 Canyon and Tower Falls. 
 
 As has been said, Mt. Washburn is the observatory 
 of the Park, and while a trip to and from its summit con- 
 sumes a day, the grand view obtained amply repays the 
 effort. Dr. Hoyt thus describes it: 
 
 “Let us take our stand for a little now upon Mt. 
 Washburn. Its rounded crest is more than 10,000 feet 
 above the level of the sea; and perhaps 5,000 feet above 
 the level of the valley, out of which it springs. Its 
 smooth slopes are easy of ascent. You need not dis- 
 mount from your horse to gain its summit. Standing 
 
MOUNT WASH BURN. 
 
 IO9 
 
 there you look down upon the whole grand pano- 
 rama as does the eagle yonder, holding himself aloft 
 upon almost motionless wings. I doubt if there is 
 another view at once so majestic and so beautiful in the 
 whole world. Your vision darts through the spaces for 
 150 miles on some sides. You are standing upon a 
 mountain lifting itself out of a vast saucer-shaped depres- 
 sion. Away yonder, where the sky seems to meet the 
 earth on every side around the whole circumference of 
 your sight, are lines and ranges of snow-capped peaks 
 shutting your glances in. Yonder shoots upward the 
 serrated peak of Pilot Mountain, in the Clark’s Fork 
 range. Joined to that, sweep on around you in the dim 
 distance, the snowy lines of the Madison range. Yon- 
 der join hands with these, the Stinking Water Mountains, 
 and so on and on and around. 
 
 “ Take now a closer view for a moment. Mark the 
 lower hills, folded in their thick draperies of pine and 
 spruce, like dark green velvet of the softest and deepest; 
 notice, too, those beautiful park-like spaces where the 
 trees refuse to grow, and where the prairie spreads its 
 smooth sward freely toward the sunlight. And those 
 spots of steam breaking into the vision every now and 
 then, and floating off like the whitest clouds that ever 
 graced the summer sky, those are the signals of the gey- 
 sers at their strange duty, yonder in the geyser basins, 
 30 miles away. And those bits of silver, flashing hither 
 and thither on the hillsides, amid the dense green of the 
 forests, these are waterfalls and fragments of ice glaciers, 
 which for ages have been at their duty of sculpturing 
 these mountains, and have not yet completed it. And 
 that lovely deep blue sheet of water, of such a dainty 
 
IIO 
 
 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 shape, running its arms out toward the hills, and bearing 
 on its serene bosom emeralds of islands; that is the 
 sweetest sheet of water in the world; that is the Yellow- 
 stone Lake. And that exquisite broad sheen of silver, 
 winding through the green of the trees and the brown of 
 the prairie; that is the Yellowstone River starting on its 
 wonderful journey to the Missouri, and thence downward 
 to the Gulf, between 6,000 and 7,000 miles away. But, 
 nearer to us, almost at our feet, as we trace this broad 
 line of silver, the eye encounters a frightful chasm, as if 
 the earth had suddenly sunk away; and into its gloomy 
 depths the brightness and beauty of the shining river 
 leaps, and is thenceforth lost altogether to the view. 
 That is the tremendous canyon, or gorge, of the Yellow- 
 stone.” 
 
 From the falls and canyon, stages will make the return trip to Mammoth 
 Hot Springs by way of the Virginia Canyon road to Norris, as stated on page 36, 
 but with the construction of a wagon road over Mt. Washburn, to the north of the 
 falls, forming a junction with the Cooke City road, near Baronette’s Bridge, not 
 only will a new and charming portion of the Park be opened to general travel, 
 but the entire circuit of the reservation will be possible without retracing any 
 part of the way. 
 
SNOWSHOE PARTY PASSING OBSIDIAN CLIFF. 
 
 
 Ill 
 
 f',p* 
 
I 12 
 
 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK 
 
 THE PARK IN MIDWINTER. 
 
 The only attempt to explore this region in the winter 
 occurred in January, 1887, it being the coldest month 
 experienced by residents of the surrounding territory for 
 over twenty years. Seventy-five per cent of the cattle per- 
 ished on the ranges of Montana and Wyoming, adjacent 
 to the Park, whose altitude, being several thousand feet 
 higher, rendered the region proportionately colder. 
 
 The expedition was headed by Lieutenant Frederick 
 Schwatka, of arctic fame, accompanied by several eastern 
 gentlemen and Mr. F. Jay Haynes, as photographer, 
 together with a corps of guides, packers and assistants. 
 The party was outfitted with arctic “sleeping bags,” the 
 Norwegian “ski” and the Canadian “web” snowshoe, 
 together with toboggans to carry supplies, photographic 
 equipment and astronomical instruments, it being the in- 
 tention to camp wherever night overtook the party, re- 
 gardless of the hotels. The expedition consumed three 
 days in reaching Norris, leaving the Mammoth Hot 
 Springs January 2d, camping at Indian Creek the first 
 night with the thermometer 37 degrees below zero when 
 entering the sleeping bags for the night, the “clear canopy 
 of heaven” being the only protection. The second 
 camp was near Obsidian Cliff. This very slow rate of 
 traveling was owing to the inexperience of the explorers 
 and the very light snow, in which the toboggans sank 
 readily, making them difficult to draw. After reaching 
 Norris, Lieutenant Schwatka’ s physical condition would 
 not permit of his further exploration, he becoming satis- 
 fied that he had seen enough to enable him to prepare a 
 very brilliant description. From a photographic stand- 
 
THE PARK IN MIDWINTER. 
 
 113 
 
 point, however, the remarkable sights in the Upper 
 Basin and Grand Canyon could not be secured from 
 Norris; consequently, Mr. Haynes secured the assistance 
 of two of the best men of the Schwatka party, and, 
 accompanied by Mr. Ed. Wilson, the Government scout, 
 attempted and fully succeeded in securing photographic 
 negatives of the most interesting portions of the Park, 
 visiting the Upper Basin and crossing over Mt. Wash- 
 burn. The fallacy of attempting to drag toboggans was 
 proven in getting to Norris, hence this party resorted to 
 the customary fashion of packing upon their backs their 
 equipment, sleeping bags and provisions; each carrying 
 from 30 to 45 pounds. The Norwegian shoe, or ski, is 
 a snowshoe some 4 inches wide by 12 feet long, which 
 .is slid over the snow, the operator carrying a pole some 
 eight feet long to assist him and to be used as a brake 
 when descending mountain sides, without which a velocity 
 would be attained that would be extremely dangerous. 
 In ascending, a “tacking” process similar to that of a 
 sailboat proceeding against the wind has to be resorted 
 to, unless it is found necessary to climb an abrupt sec- 
 tion, when a small rope, always carried by a snowshoer, 
 is wound around the left shoe to prevent it slipping back. 
 Parties climbing an exceedingly steep place usually 
 make of their shoes a series of steps, the one in the rear 
 passing the last shoe ahead for the one in advance to 
 take a new step. This mode, of course, being exceed- 
 ingly slow, was only once or twice resorted to. In leav- 
 ing the Norris Hotel the first grand sight presented was 
 in Norris Basin, where the great amount of steam con- 
 gealed on the trees in the vicinity produced all the fan- 
 tastic shapes and forms possible to imagine, while the 
 8 
 
114 
 
 FOLIAGE NEAR GEYSERS IN WINTER. 
 
THE PARK IN MIDWINTER 
 
 115 
 
 many thousand vents sending up their columns of steam 
 resembled a vast manufacturing city. The telephone 
 wires happening to be over a hot spring were generally 
 broken down by the immense weight of accumulated ice, 
 frequently assuming a size 2 to 3 inches in diameter. 
 The Upper Basin, however, presented the finest attrac- 
 tion, the greater amount of steam and more numerous hot 
 springs affording a grand sight. The president of the 
 Yellowstone Park Association kindly offered the party 
 the use of the hotels, which were soon found to be colder 
 than out doors. They are summer hotels, and the draught 
 produced by kindling a fire inside was more disagreeable 
 than a camp on the lava formation near Old Faithful, 
 which was dry and entirely free from snow on account of 
 the internal heat, where, securing a tent from the hotel, 
 the party camped. The first five days they encountered 
 the most blinding of snow storms, during which time, of 
 course, no photographs could be made; after which a 
 clear morning revealed a sight seldom seen, in which Old 
 Faithful, the Giantess and the Grand were in eruption at 
 one and the same time. The great amount of steam ris- 
 ing in majestic columns to over 1,000 feet, mingled with 
 that constantly arising from numerous other openings, 
 produced an effect truly wonderful. The foliage surround- 
 ing each geyser was most artistically ornamented with ice 
 and frozen spray. The great fall of snow throughout the 
 Park, fully eight feet in depth, gave a quite different 
 aspect to the country. The Grand Canyon was entirely 
 changed, the beautiful coloring on the slopes being hid- 
 den. The Great Falls presented a strange sight; the 
 north half was frozen over, immense icicles, 200 feet in 
 length, hanging therefrom; an ice bridge, fully 100 feet 
 
GREAT FALLS OF YELLOWSTONE IN WINTER 
 
THE PARK IN MIDWINTER 
 
 TI7 
 
 high, was formed at the base, coming up fully to the spray 
 line, which is usually one-third the height of the falls; the 
 brink was frozen over, being hidden by an arch of ice fully 
 a dozen feet thick. The trip over Mt. Washburn, in which 
 the entire party nearly lost their lives, was one of hard- 
 ship and privation, a blinding snow storm being encoun- 
 tered on the mountain, lasting for three days, in which this 
 little party wandered day and night, without food, shelter 
 or fire, an adventurous experience few care to undergo. 
 On the exposed ridges of Mt. Washburn thousands of elk 
 were seen, this being their winter range. The extreme 
 rigors of this section prevent it ever becoming a winter 
 resort, and probably no other expedition will ever be 
 organized to explore it. 
 
 The circuit of the Park on snowshoes covered nearly 
 200 miles, the temperature varying from not warmer than 
 10 degrees below zero to 52 degrees below, during the 
 entire twenty-nine days consumed by this expedition. 
 
 9 
 
n8 
 
 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 FAUNA AND FLORA OF THE PARK. 
 
 It is but proper that the reader of even a guide-book 
 be given some idea of the animal and plant life to be found 
 in this region; however, it should be borne in mind that 
 an exhaustive treatise on this subject is not attempted 
 herein. 
 
 Among the wild animals to be found in the Park are : 
 Buffalo, moose, elk, big horn (mountain sheep), deer, ante- 
 lope, bear, mountain lion (panther), wolf, fox (red, gray 
 and black), coyote, beaver, otter, mink, marten, sable, 
 muskrat, ermine, rabbit, badger, porcupine, hare, squir- 
 rel, chipmunk, wolverine and skunk. 
 
 Among the birds (principally migratory) are : Grouse, 
 owl, hawk, eagle, vulture, duck (in great variety), goose, 
 brant, pelican, swan, crane, crow, raven, bluejay and 
 blackbird. 
 
 Reptiles are rare, though the rattlesnake is found in 
 parts of the Yellowstone Valley, below an altitude of 
 6,000 feet. 
 
 Among the animals enumerated, the larger varieties 
 are only occasionally met with, and then, as a general 
 thing, only in the more inaccessible and densely wooded 
 portions of the Park, the latter being about three-fourths 
 its entire area. 
 
 The principal varieties of trees found here are : Black 
 spruce, fir (black, red and balsam), white pine, red cedar, 
 aspen (poplar), dwarf maple, and willow; while among 
 the shrubs may be seen the choke-cherry, gooseberry, 
 bullberry, currant and buffalo-berry. 
 
 Grasses are quite abundant, the predominating vari- 
 eties being the buffalo, bunch and gramma, which are 
 wonderfully nutritious. 
 
FISH AND FISHING. 
 
 19 
 
 Wild flowers, of almost every hue, and in wellnigh 
 endless variety, are quite plentiful and exceedingly hardy, 
 often withstanding severe frosts without injury. Singu- 
 larly, also, the more beautiful varieties are found upon 
 the higher elevations, such as Mt. Washburn, Electric 
 Peak and the like, which at certain seasons are gayly be- 
 decked with flowers of rare color and fragrance; however, 
 many interesting specimens of flora are to be found in the 
 lower altitudes. 
 
 FISH AND FISHING. 
 
 To many, one of the most interesting features of the 
 Park is its excellent fishing; mountain trout being abun- 
 dant and widely distributed with respect to its various 
 lakes and streams, while grayling are found in the Madi- 
 son and Gallatin Rivers, and whitefish in the Madison, 
 Gardiner and Yellowstone. 
 
 During the summer of 1889, by order of the U. S. 
 Fish Commission, quite a large number of young trout 
 were placed in Park waters, President David S. Jordan 
 of the University of Indiana, assisted by Dr. Charles H. 
 Gilbert, having direct charge of the work. 
 
 An extract from Dr. Jordan’s report will serve to show 
 in what streams and lakes fish are to be found : 
 
 “We found trout in Yellowstone River and Lake, and 
 in all tributaries both above and below the falls, except 
 Tower Creek. Fishes are plenty in Snake River and 
 Heart Lake, and in the Madison below the falls of Fire- 
 hole. There are none in the Upper Gardiner above the 
 falls; none in Firehole nor Lewis Rivers; nor in Lewis 
 or Shoshone Lakes. In the Gibbon, above the falls, are 
 
120 
 
 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 no trout, but plenty of a little fish called ‘ Blob,’ or ‘ Mil- 
 ler’s Thumb.’ 
 
 “Grayling are found only in the Madison and Gal- 
 latin; whitefish in the Madison, Lower Gardiner and 
 Yellowstone. 
 
 “The U. S. Fish Commission has placed fish as fol- 
 lows : 
 
 “ Eastern Brook Trout ( Salvelinus fontinalis ) in Up- 
 per Gardiner and Glenn Creeks. 
 
 “Rainbow Trout ( Salmo iridens ) in the Upper 
 Gibbon, above Virginia Cascades. 
 
 “Loch Leven Trout ( Salmo trutta levenensis ) in the 
 Madison, above Keppler’s Cascades. 
 
 “Whitefish ( Coregonus Williamsoni ) in Yellowstone 
 Lake and Twin Lakes. 
 
 “Native Trout ( Salmo myhiss ) in Lava Creek.’’ 
 
 A careful investigation is being made as to the cause 
 or causes for the appearance of the parasitic worm which 
 afflicts many of the trout in Yellowstone and Heart Lakes, 
 and it is hoped and expected that a remedy may be found. 
 
TABLES OF DISTANCES, ELEVATIONS, ETC. 121 
 
 TABLE OF DISTANCES. 
 
 Miles. 
 
 Cinnabar to Mammoth Hot Springs, 8 
 
 Mammoth Hot Springs to Golden Gate, 4 
 
 Mammoth Hot Springs to Obsidian Cliff, 12 
 
 Mammoth Hot Springs to Norris Geyser 22 
 
 Mammoth Hot Springs to Lower Geyser, 42 
 
 Mammoth Hot Springs to Upper Geyser, 52 
 
 Lower Geyser to Grand Canyon, 28 
 
 Grand Canyon to Norris, 12 
 
 Grand Canyon to Yellowstone Lake, 18 
 
 Yellowstone Lake Outlet to Thumb Bay 18 
 
 Upper Basin to Shoshone Lake, 12 
 
 Shoshone Lake to Thumb Bay 16 
 
 Grand Canyon to Yancey’s, 23 
 
 Yancey’s to Mammoth Hot Springs, 18 
 
 ELEVATIONS OF THE PARK. 
 
 Feet. 
 
 Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel 6,387 
 
 West Entrance Golden Gate 7,300 
 
 Norris Geyser Basin, 7,5*7 
 
 Lower Geyser Basin, 7.252 
 
 Upper Geyser Basin, 7.394 
 
 Yellowstone Lake, 7.788 
 
 Mary’s Lake, 8.336 
 
 Grand Canyon Hotel 7.710 
 
 ALTITUDE OF MOUNTAINS. 
 
 Feet. 
 
 Electric Peak, 11,155 
 
 Quadrant Mountain, 10,127 
 
 Mt. Evarts, 7,600 
 
 Bunsen's Peak 8,775 
 
 Mt. Washburn, 10,388 
 
 Mt. Langford, 10,902 
 
 Mt. Sheridan, 10,385 
 
 Index Peak 11,702 
 
 Grand Teton, , , , , 13,654 
 
122 
 
 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 RECORDED BY THE SUPT. OF THE PARK AT THE MAMMOTH HOT SPRINGS. 
 
 TEMPERATURE DURING THE MONTH OK AUGUST, 1887. 
 
 Highest, 
 
 Lowest, 
 
 Mean, 
 
 Degrees. 
 . 91.00 
 . 37-oo 
 
 • 58.33 
 
 September, 1887. 
 
 Highest, 
 
 Lowest, 
 
 Mean, 
 
 88.00 
 
 29.00 
 53-05 
 
 June, 1888. 
 
 Highest, 
 
 Lowest 
 
 Mean, 
 
 83.00 
 
 37.00 
 54-64 
 
 July, 1888. 
 
 Highest 
 
 Lowest, 
 
 Mean 
 
 95.00 
 
 38.00 
 64.07 
 
 1889. 
 
 Mean Temperature for 
 Mean Temperature for 
 Mean Temperature for 
 Mean Temperature for 
 
 Month of June, . . 
 
 Month of July, . 
 Mouth of August, . 
 Month of September, 
 
 53-82 
 63.06 
 59-14 
 5° -*7 
 

 I2j 
 
Porttyern Pacific Railroad. 
 
 (Dbgo Ydur FRIENDS 
 
 -a DECIDE TD VISIT k- 
 
 Yellou/stope par% 
 
 Jl7e paeifie <?oast:, 
 
 ■ y ., or /\lasl\a, 
 
 CHAS. S. FEE, 
 
 Advise them to write Gen>l Pass, and Ticket Agent N. P. R. R., 
 
 ST. PAUL, MINN. 
 
 FOR RATES. MAPS, ILLUSTRATED 
 PAMPHLETS, ETC. 
 
 124