m : ~^^^-<^^ ■ >> > » ;> \ < 5> ' r tftih ^ ■ 1 -o sosS -^w. ^> 3 > -*> 3 • .,? J^IT* ^>» > 7 -7 H ■9 ?38? 3* ~»> ^OVH . >> :*> >/; > 3* -* Ql> h sSP ^^>53& ^5 ^ r l >x> ^ R2 > > - §ra yy >> > > 3 >, > ' 2%b :>3> - ;ftg- 3E? 3x£>> ^ - - -1 .02 »3> > I> ' V) .> > O 5D >3 > : o >3 2> :» >> i 1^ #^ Oy-^.3 » ) > ^> z 3 >^ J>^^«> ) i : o ■ / ' ! mmmmmm /'■ fiuTter-land sadpf $tcturegs : ACCOMPANIED WITH DESCRIPTIONS OF THE SCENERY, AND OF THE COSTUMES, MANNERS, &c. OF THE INHABITANTS OF THOSE CITIES AND THEIR ENVIRONS. By E. E. VI DAL, Esq. LONDON : PUBLISHED BY R. ACKERMANN, 101, STRAND. HUNTED BY I. HARRISON, 373, STRAND. I f M.DCCC.XX. Wk PREFACE. The important events of which the Spanish colonies in South America have of late years been the theatre, and the successful struggle for independence which they are still maintaining against the mother country, have powerfully attracted the attention of the whole civilized world. The political consequence of Buenos Ay res as the capital and centre of one of the newly established republics, and its importance in a commercial point of view, would render it an object of peculiar interest to the first mercantile nation in the world, even without its attempted reduction during the late war by the British arms. Leaving, however, those more abstruse topics to the professed historian and political economist, the author of this work contented himself with sketching, originally without any view to publication, some of the characteristic features presented by the cities of Buenos Ayres and Monte Video, and such peculiarities in the habits, manners, and customs of the people as appeared to him most striking during a residence of three years in the country. These delineations will, he presumes, prove the more acceptable iv PREFACE. to the curious, inasmuch as, to his knowledge, no graphic illus- tration of those places has hitherto been submitted to the public. The descriptive part, unwarped by political bias, is the simple result of personal observation, with the addition of a few data derived from writers of acknowledged authority. For the benefit of the reader not conversant with the history of the colonies, a brief introductory sketch states such particulars of their settlement and subsequent fortunes as could not be conveniently introduced in any other shape. INTRODUCTION. The Spanish possessions in South America were formerly under the sole government of the viceroy of Peru; but some of those provinces being upwards of two thousand miles distant from Lima, his residence, sustained great incon- venience on that account; for neither could justice be distributed, nor protec- tion afforded to their inhabitants. To remedy this evil, three other viceroyal- ties were at different times created; the last of them in 1778 at Buenos Ayres, comprehending the provinces of Buenos A)^res or Rio de la Plata, Paraguay, Tucuman, Las Charcas or Potosi, and Chiquito or Cuyo. This viceroyalty extended in a direct line from Cape Lobos, which may be considered as its southern limit, to the northernmost settlements on the Paraguaj^, upwards of six- teen hundred miles; and from Cape St. Anthony, at the mouth of the Plata, to the Cordilleras, which separate it from Chili, nearly one thousand. It embraces all the varieties of climate to be found in twenty-six degrees of latitude; being bounded on the north by the country of the independent Indians of the river of Amazons and its vicinity; on the west by Peru and Chili; on the south by Pa- tagonia, and on the east by Brasil and the Atlantic ocean. The province of Rio de la Plata, in which Buenos Ayres is situated, lies on both sides of the estuary of the same name, in which the mingled streams of the Parana, the Paraguay, the Uraguay, and other less considerable rivers, form a mass of fresh water not to be paralleled in the rest of the globe for width and b vi INTRODUCTION. magnificence. Of the circumstances that led to the first colonization of this country; to the foundation of its capital, which is more particularly the subject of the succeeding sheets; and to the recent revolution which has torn it from the Spanish sceptre, a brief historical notice will not be deemed an inappro- priate introduction. Though a considerable portion of the continent of South America was ex- plored in 1501 by Americus Vesputius, who, more fortunate than Columbus, the original discoverer, enjoyed the honour of giving his name to the whole western hemisphere; yet it would appear, that the Rio de la Plata and the coun- tries bordering upon it were not visited by Europeans till several years later. In 1515 the court of Spain gave the command of an expedition destined to prosecute discoveries in this quarter to Juan Dias de Solis, grand pilot of Cas- tile, who sailed from Spain in the month of September with three small vessels, one of sixty tons, and the two others of thirty each. He took on board sixty soldiers and provisions for two years and a half. On the 1st of Januarj^, 1516, he entered a river, to which he gave the name of Rio Genero, the present Rio Janeiro of the Portuguese. Thence ranging along the coast, he came to the mouth of an immense river, which he called after his own name, Rio de Solis, an appellation subsequently changed to Rio de la Plata. He entered it, and perceiving on the north bank a number of Charrua Indians, who seemed to invite him to land, he went on shore, accompanied by a few of his men. Here the whole party fell a sacrifice to the treachery of the Indians, reinforced by others who lay in ambush very near a stream that still bears the name of Solis, and is situated between Monte Video and Maldonado. The expedition having lost its commander, immediately returned to Spain, and no farther attempt at discovery was made for some years. INTRODUCTION. vii Meanwhile the reports of the prodigious wealth discovered by the Spaniards in Peru induced the Portuguese governor of Brasil, Don Martin de Sosa, to plan an expedition overland, with a view to share, if possible, their good for- tune. For the execution of it he selected Alexis de Garcia, on whose courage and fidelity he could rely. Taking with him his son, who was very young, and three Portuguese only, Garcia reached the Paraguay, where he found a great number of Indians, and prevailed upon a large body of them to accompanj r him. Penetrating to the frontiers of Peru, he collected some gold and a con- siderable quantity of silver, with which he returned to the spot where he had been joined by the Indians, and which he thought an eligible situation for a set- tlement. Dispatching two of his companions to the governor of Brasil with an account of the success of his journey and of the plan he had formed, he re- mained himself among the Indians, with his son and the other Portuguese. No sooner had his messengers departed, than Garcia was attacked by the Indians, who murdered him and his companion, made his son a slave, and seized all his treasure. On the receipt of his dispatches, sixty Portuguese and a large party of Brasilians were sent for the purpose of joining him; but they were so harassed in their progress by the Indians, that they turned back, after losing their com- mander and several men, and in crossing the Parana, almost all the rest of them were drowned. Discouraged by these untoward events, neither the Spaniards nor the Por- tuguese made any farther attempt at conquest or colonization in these parts, till they were visited by Sebastian Gaboto or Cabot. This navigator, who, before the conclusion of the fifteenth centu^, had discovered Newfoundland and part of North America for England, conceiving himself neglected in that country, had entered into the service of Spain; and after the return of Magellan from the b 2 via INTRODUCTION. first circumnavigation of the globe, he was appointed to the command of a squadron of four ships, with orders to pursue the same track to the East Indies. He sailed accordingly in April 1526, and lost the largest of his ships at the island of St. Catherine. At the port of Patos, on the coast of Brasil, he found two Spaniards, who had deserted from the force commanded by Solis, and in the vicinity of that place fifteen more Spanish deserters, from the troops under Don Rodrigues d'Acunha, destined for the East Indies. All these men informed Gaboto that there was abundance of gold and silver on the Rio de la Plata. He resolved therefore to sail up that river, but as some of his officers opposed this intention, and strongly censured him for relinquishing the original object of the expedition, he put three of the most refractory on shore in the island of St. Catherine, entered the Plata, and anchored at the mouth of a rivulet, now called St. John's, opposite to Buenos Ayres. At this place he was joined by Francisco Puerto, the only one of the party that had landed with Solis who had escaped; Here Gaboto left the two largest vessels, with thirty seamen and twelve soldiers, to defend the effects which he deposited in a hut surrounded with palisades; and departed with the boats, giving orders to those who remained to seek a better harbour in the vicinity. In compliance with this command, one of the larger vessels entered the river Uraguay, but was driven on shore the third day by a tempest. The captain and some of his men were killed by the Indians; while the rest, escaping in the boat, or by swimming to shore, returned to St. John's* Gaboto himself sailed up the southernmost branch of the river Parana, to the mouth of the Sarcarana, where he built a brig, and erected a fort, which he called Tort Espiritu Santo, leaving in it a garrison of sixty men. He ascended the Parana to the shoals, in the latitude of 27 deg. 27 min. and then returned and entered the Paraguay, to seek certain Indians who were said to possess INTRODUCTION. ix abundance of gold and silver. On arriving at the mouth of the river Bermejo, he sent the brig up it with thirty men. They met with some Indians, who in- formed the Spaniards that they had plenty of the precious metals in their houses, which were not far distant, and that they would willingly exchange them for other articles. Deceived by this story, fifteen of the Spaniards accompanied the Indians, who surprised and massacred them all. Gaboto soon returned this blow, by attacking the Indians, killing a considerable number of them, and making a large booty in gold and silver. It is supposed that these Indians were the same who had murdered Garcia, and that their treasure was what had been brought by him from Peru. Gaboto, however, ignorant of this circumstance, ■considered all the precious metals as the produce of mines in the neighbourhood; and was confirmed in this idea, when some other Indians, who had entered into an alliance with him, not only supplied him with provisions, but bartered silver for Spanish commodities of trifling value. He therefore gave to this river the name of Rio de la Plata, a name which it still retains, though not the least trace of gold, silver, or any other metal, has ever been found in its vicinity. On his return to Fort Espiritu Santo, he dispatched Fernand Calderon to acquaint the Emperor and King of Spain, Charles V. with his discoveries and operations, and to present to his majesty the gold and silver which he had col- lected. The emperor was perfectly satisfied with the conduct of Gaboto, and ordered him to proceed with the conquest of the country, ^promising at the same time to send him the reinforcements which he solicited. As, however, the public exchequer was exhausted, and incapable of defraying the attendant expense, a commission to prosecute this conquest was given to Don Pedro de Mendoza, a very opulent inhabitant of Cadiz, who offered to undertake it at his own cost. Meanwhile Gaboto, having waited two years in vain for the x INTRODUCTION. expected succours, left one hundred and ten men at Espiritu Santo, under the command of Nuno de Lara, and embarked for Spain, where he arrived in 1530. Lara, finding himself surrounded by nations whom he was too weak to overawe, endeavoured to cultivate a good understanding with the Timboos, one of the nearest and most powerful tribes. His success in this attempt, however, soon involved him in unexpected destruction. M angora, the cacique of the Timboos, in the course of the frequent visits which he paid to the fort, became enamoured of Lucia Miranda, wife of Sebastian Hurtado, one of the principal Spanish officers. It was not long before this lady discovered his passion, and knowing what she had to apprehend from a savage, with whom it was the go- vernor's interest to be on friendly terms, she used every possible precaution to avoid being seen by Mangora, and to guard against any violence or surprise. The chief, on his part, devising how to get her into his power, frequently pressed Hurtado to pa)' him a visit, and to bring Miranda with him. Her husband, to whom she had communicated her suspicions and her fears, with a policy adapted to circumstances, declined Mangora's invitation, alleging that a Spaniard could not quit his post without the permission of his superior, nor could he solicit that permission except to fight and conquer his foes. The cacique was not duped by this evasion, but soon perceived that the removal of Hurtado was absolutely necessary for the accomplishment of his purpose. It soon happened that Hurtado was detached with another officer, Ruy Garcia Mosquera, and fifty soldiers, to procure provisions. Considering this as a favour- able opportunity, since it not only removed the husband, but weakened the force to which the wife had to look for protection, Mangora posted four thousand chosen men in an adjacent morass, and repaired to the fort with thirty others carrying refreshments. On his arrival, he sent word to Lara, that learning how INTRODUCTION. xi much he was distressed for provisions, he had brought a supply sufficient to serve him till the return of the detachment. The governor welcomed the trea- cherous chieftain with the strongest demonstrations of friendship, and insisted upon entertaining him and his attendants. Mangora, calculating upon such a reception, had given directions accordingly to his men how to behave, and concerted signals with those who were posted in the morass. The entertainment lasted till the night was far advanced; after breaking up, the Indians allowed the Spaniards sufficient time to retire to rest, and then set fire to the magazines of the fort. The Spanish officers, roused by the alarm of fire, were mostly dis- patched as they rose from bed, and the rest killed in their sleep. Meanwhile the men posted in the morass were admitted into the fort, which immediately became a scene of confusion and slaughter. The governor, however, enjoyed the satisfaction of revenging himself on the perfidious chief; for though severely wounded, yet espying Mangora, he rushed upon him, and ran him through the body, but was immediately overpowered and slain by the Indians. Of all the Spanish inhabitants of the fort, none was spared but Miranda, the innocent cause of the fatal catastrophe, four other women, and the same number of young children. These were all bound and led before Syripo, the brother and successor of the late cacique. Syripo, at the sight of Miranda's beauty, conceived as strong a passion for her as that which had proved fatal to Mangora. He ordered her to be unbound, and relinquished the other prisoners to his attendants. He then told her not to consider herself as a captive, and solicited her favour with a gentleness that love alone could have infused into the bosom of a savage. He contrasted her husband's situation and his own — the one a fugitive in the forests of a hostile country; the other the chief of a pow- erful nation. Miranda's virtue, however, was proof both against persuasions xii INTRODUCTION. and fear; she rejected Syripo's offers with scorn, and with a degree of acrimony that was intended to exasperate and impel him to order her immediate death, by which she hoped to escape the horrors of violation. Her behaviour had a contrary effect, and only tended to strengthen the passion of the cacique, by either commanding his esteem, or enhancing the value of his anticipated con- quest. He treated her with more lenity, indulgence, and regard, than could have been expected from a savage unaccustomed to controul his own inclinations, or to respect female chastity. Meanwhile Hurtado, on his return with the convoy of provisions, was as- tonished to find nothing but a heap of ruins where the fort had stood. He soon learned that his faithful wife was detained in captivity by the chief of the Tim- boos, and with a temerity prompted by conjugal affection, he immediately hastened to the place of her abode. Syripo was soon apprised of Hurtado's arrival, and enraged at his presumption, as well as actuated by inveterate hatred of the man who exclusively possessed the heart of Miranda, and was, in his opinion, the sole obstacle to his happiness, he ordered him to be instantly seized, bound to a tree, and pierced to death with arrows. Once more the power of beauty prevailed, and the earnest entreaties of Miranda won from the savage the remission of the sentence pronounced upon her husband. He was unbound, but detained as a captive. Tormented with conflicting passions, Syripo sometimes seemed determined to sacrifice Hurtado to his jealous fury; but at others the desire of ingratiating himself with Miranda so far overcame his hatred, that Hurtado was permitted to see his wife. Their mutual visits gradually became more frequent and unrestrained; but one fatal prohibition embittered their happiness. The cacique warned them against inflaming his jealousy by indulging in conjugal endearments. Vain, however, was the voice INTRODUCTION. xiii of prudence, and vain were all the resolutions which they formed to abstain from the interdicted enjoyment. Restraint served only to strengthen desire, and one fatal moment plunged them into the threatened destruction. Syripo sur- prised them in each other's embraces, and fired with ungovernable rage at this defiance of his authority, he ordered them both to instant death; Hurtado to the punishment which he had before so narrowly escaped, and Miranda to the flames. Mosquera, who was left in the command of the few remaining Spaniards, repaired the ruined fort; but finding that it was to no purpose to remain there, on account of the irreconcileable animosity which prevailed between the Spa- niards and the Indians, he abandoned the place, and embarked with the remnant of his garrison in a small vessel that Gaboto had left behind. He first proceeded to the coast of Brasil, and afterwards removed to the island of St. Catherine, where he formed a settlement; from which, however, he was soon expelled by the Portuguese. During these transactions, the court of Spain had not lost sight oC Paraguay, and preparations were set on foot for a settlement on the Rio de la Plata, greatly surpassing any that had been made for the establishment of colonies in other parts of America. Don Pedro de Mendoza was appointed commander-in-chief of the expedition, and governor-general of all the countries that might be dis- covered as far as the South Sea, on condition of his transporting thither, in two voyages, at his own cost, one thousand men and one hundred horses, with arms, ammunition, and provisions for a year. He was authorized to form establish- ments wherever he thought proper in the lands he might discover; and was left at liberty, after a residence of three years in his government, to return to Spain and name his successor, who should be entitled to the same prerogatives as xiv INTRODUCTION. himself. A salary of two thousand ducats a year for life was settled upon him, and he was to enjoy a certain portion of all such treasures as should fall into his hands. Orders were issued to equip fourteen vessels at Cadiz, and Don Juan Osorio, an Italian officer, who had greatly distinguished himself in the wars in Italy, was appointed second in command under Mendoza. These extensive prepara- tions, and the reports circulated respecting the riches of the countries contiguous to the Rio de la Plata, attracted so many persons, even from among the ancient nobility of Spain, that the first armament comprehended, instead of five hun- dred as originally proposed, twelve hundred men, including many Flemings and Germans. No Spanish colony, indeed, can boast of such illustrious names among its founders; and the posterity of many of them still exist in Paraguay, especially in the capital of that province. The fleet sailed in August 1534, but was dispersed by a severe storm. Some of the ships reached the islands of St. Gabriel; while the rest, with the commander-in-chief, were obliged to take refuge in the harbour of Rio de Janeiro. Here Osorio was assassinated, as it was strongly suspected, at the instigation of Mendoza, whose conduct excited so much dissatisfaction, that many of his followers were preparing to leave him, when the commander, being apprized of their intention, immediately put to sea, and rejoined the other part of the fleet at the islands of St. Gabriel, since called Colonia del Sacramento, From this station, Don Pedro sent an officer to the opposite bank to seek a convenient spot for the projected settlement, and followed himself with the whole fleet. The site of the present city of Buenos Ayres was fixed upon; here Mendoza immediately ordered the plan of a town to be traced out; the work was begun on the 2d of February, 1535, every man, without distinction, lending INTRODUCTION. xv his assistance, and in a short time they all had convenient habitations. A be- ginning was made to surround the place with walls, and at first the Guarani and Pampa Indians brought provisions, which they sold to the Spaniards. In the sequel, however, they killed ten of their number who were employed in cutting wood, and attacked the town, with the intention of destroying the new erections. In order to chastise them, Don Pedro sent against them his brother, Don Diego, with twelve captains on horseback, and one hundred and thirty foot. The second day after their departure they reached the valley of Escobar, where they perceived a body of three thousand Indians advantageously posted behind a little river and a marsh. The Spaniards attacked them; but they had scarcely proceeded a few paces, when their horses sunk up to their bellies in mud, from which it was impossible to extricate them. The enemy, with their balls, darts, and arrows, killed ten horsemen, including Don Diego, and twenty foot. A great number of Indians also perished on this occasion. A scarcity which had for some time prevailed at Buenos Ayres became at length a dreadful famine, which occasioned the death of about two hundred of the settlers. The Indians also waylaid and destroyed all who sought the means of appeasing their hunger in the adjacent country. Hence a prohibition, under the penalty of death, was issued against any excursion beyond the limits of the garrison, and guards were posted at all the outlets to enforce its observance. Here another romantic tale is interwoven with the early history of this colony ; but as, notwithstanding its improbability, it has received the sanction of the most authentic writers, no apology will be necessarjr for its introduction here. Be it remarked by the way, that it ought to excite no surprise, if persons, whose religion enjoined the belief of the grossest legendary absurdities, were capable c 2 XVI INTRODUCTION. of a greater stretch of credulity in regard to the affairs of common life, than appears to us consistent with sound and sober reason. The story is as follows: A woman, named Maldonata, having eluded the vigilance of the guards, and wandered for some time about the country, at length entered a cavern, where, to her no small dismay, she found a lioness. The animal, however, attempted no outrage upon her visitor, who soon perceived that she was on the point of littering, and in great agony. Maldonata, with a courage propor-. tioned to her desperate situation, approached the lioness, which, with her assistance, was soon delivered of her burden. The benefit thus conferred was. repaid by the grateful beast, which divided the abundant supplies of food obtained in her daily excursions, between her whelps and Maldonata. The latter continued to reside in the cavern till the cubs were capable of providing for themselves ; when they disappeared, as did also the lioness, no longer attracted to the spot by maternal affection. Maldonata, therefore, was obliged, to quit this asylum; and again rambling through the woods and deserts, fell in with some Indians, by whom she was made a slave. Being at length retaken by the Spaniards, she was carried back to Buenos Ayres, where Don Francisco Ruiz Galan commanded in the absence of Mendoza, who was gone on an expe- dition up the river in quest of some relief for the starving inhabitants. Galan was of a cruel disposition; and as Maldonata had violated the prohibition issued against straggling, he adjudged her to suffer death, and such a death as none but the most ferocious tyrant could decree. He ordered her to be taken into the country, to be bound naked to a tree, and there left to be devoured by wild beasts, or to perish with hunger. Two days afterwards, the party who had executed this barbarous order being sent to see what had become of her, found her, to their extreme astonishment, alive and unhurt, though surrounded by INTRODUCTION. xvii wild beasts, which were deterred from attacking her by a lioness that lay at her feet. It was the same with which she had so long resided in the cavern. She related her story to the soldiers, who released and took her back to Buenos Ayres. The wonderful preservation of Maldonata on these two occasions pro- cured her pardon from Galan, who would have been considered as opposing the will of Heaven had he attempted to enforce his cruel sentence. A short time after this event, Mendoza being dangerously ill, embarked for Spain, leaving Galan in the command of Buenos Ayres, and appointing Don Juan de Ayolas, whom he had sent up the river to explore the country, his suc- cessor in the government, and his heir in case of his death, which happened during the voyage. Ayolas meanwhile ascended the Parana, and, after several battles with the Indians, erected a fort, which formed the commencement of the city of Assumption. Here he placed a garrison of one hundred men, and leaving his vessels under the command of Domingo Martinez de Yrala, whom he ordered to wait six months for his return, he proceeded to the north-west, into the inte- rior of the country, with two hundred Spaniards. Ayolas penetrated into Peru, but on his return was surprised by the Payagua Indians, and cut off with all his followers. In the mean time, a confirmation of his appointment as governor- general had arrived from the emperor, with directions that, in case of his death, the original Spaniards, or the conquerors of Paraguay as they were termed, should elect his successor. Accordingly, on receiving intelligence of the unfor- tunate fate of Ayolas and his expedition, they chose Yrala to the vacant office. Buenos Ayres was in the interim daily losing its inhabitants by famine. Part of them were in consequence removed to Assumption, and a proposal was made for its total abandonment. This proposal was strongly supported by the new governor, and at length determined upon. Yrala is conjectured to have xviii INTRODUCTION. been influenced in this affair by the desire of rendering himself independent: since, on the suppression of this establishment at the mouth of the river, orders from the court of Spain could not reach him without much difficulty and delay; whilst he, being at so great a distance up the country, might easily find means of eluding them, should they prove in any respect disagreeable. Be this as it may, the resolution was immediately carried into effect ; Buenos Ayres was completely evacuated in 1539, and its inhabitants were transferred to Assump- tion. Among these were several Italian gentlemen, whose posterity still exist in Paraguay, together with the crew of a Genoese vessel, which, having put into the Rio de la Plata with a valuable cargo, had been wrecked on a sand- bank near Buenos Ayres. On the arrival of the whole at Assumption, it was found that, out of three thousand men who had come from Spain, not more than six hundred were left. Upwards of forty years the spot on which Buenos Ayres had stood remained uninhabited. At length, the frequent loss of ships coming from Europe, owing to the want of a safe harbour on the Rio de la Plata, rendered the Spaniards fully sensible of the policy of the re-establishment of Buenos Ayres. This measure was therefore determined on, and carried into execution in 1580 by Don Juan Garay, who settled sixty Spaniards upon the very ruins of the former town. The neighbouring Indians at first annoyed the place exceedingly ; but Garay succeeded in quelling their opposition. The city remained for a long time in a state of poverty, from which it gradually emerged. Its commerce began to flourish ; for though its port was not opened to strangers, yet many foreign vessels from time to time put into it as if compelled by stress of weather, or upon some other pretext, were favourably received, and carried on a traffic equally profitable to themselves and the inhabitants, who, by the year 1700, had increased to sixteen thousand. INTRODUCTION. xix In 1740, an accession of population and prosperity accrued to this settle- ment, from the disasters that befel a considerable Spanish squadron which had been dispatched for the purpose of repelling the attacks of the British under Commodore Anson. Unable, however, to double Cape Horn, and buffeted by tempests, most of the ships composing it were obliged to seek refuge in the Plata in a shattered and disabled state, only one of the number being in a con- dition to return to Spain. The troops and crews of this squadron settled in the country, having no opportunity of leaving it, on account of the interrupted and precarious intercourse at that time existing between Spain and her colonies. The separation of the provinces of Buenos Ayres, Paraguay, Tucuman, Los Charcas, and Cuyo, from the viceroyalty of Peru in 1778, and their erection into a separate viceroyalty, of which Buenos Ayres was made the capital, gave a fresh spring to the prosperity of the. country, which the new commercial regulations adopted at the same time contributed not a little to promote. The earliest traders to America seeking nothing but gold and silver, set no value on countries not producing those metals: apprehensive, however, lest commodities might be introduced into Peru by way of Buenos Ayres, and that this might prejudice the sale of the cargoes of the fleets and galleons which they sent to Panama, they solicited and obtained from the government the prohi- bition of every kind of commerce by the Rio de la Plata. Those who were most affected by this measure made strong remonstrances, and in 1602, they were permitted to export for six years in two vessels belonging to themselves, and on their own account, a certain quantity of flour, tallow, and jerked beefi but to no other ports than those of Brasil and Guinea. When the term of this permission had expired, an indefinite prolongation of it was solicited, with an extension to all kinds of merchandise, and to the Spanish ports. This applica- \l xx INTRODUCTION. tion was vehemently opposed by the consulates of Lima and Seville: neverthe- less, in 1618, the inhabitants of the shores of the Rio de la Plata were authorized to fit out two vessels, not exceeding one hundred tons burden each. Several other conditions were imposed on them, and to prevent any traffic with the interior of Peru, a custom-house was established at Cordoba del Tucuman, where a duty of fifty per cent, was exacted from all imports. This custom- house was also designed to prevent the transmission of gold and silver from Peru to Buenos Ayres, even in payment for the mules furnished by the latter place. When the term of this permission had expired, it was prolonged for an indefi- nite period by an order of 1622; and with a view to promote the prosperity of this country, a royal audience was established in 1665 at Buenos Ayres, but again abolished as useless in 1672. Such was the general state of things, though individuals from time to time received licences to ship off cargoes of goods, till 1778, when the Rio de la Plata was thrown open to traffic of every kind,, and even with the interior of Peru. Previously to that date, no more than twelve or fifteen registered vessels were engaged in the colonial trade of all Spanish South America, and these seldom performed more than one voyage in three years. In 1796, sixty-three vessels from Old Spain alone arrived in the single port of Buenos Ayres, with cargoes valued at nearly three millions of piasters; and fifty-one sailed from it for the mother country, fourteen to the Havannah, and eleven to the coast of Africa. The value of the exports was about five millions and a half of piasters, including upwards of four millions in gold and silver. In the succeeding years, the hostilities between Great Britain and Spain produced a material change in the state of this colony; and such was the con- sequent stagnation of trade, that the warehouses of Buenos Ayres and Monte INTRODUCTION. xxi Video were filled with hides and other native productions; while many kinds of European goods rose to exorbitant prices, or were not to be procured at any rate. The people of the United States of America wisely availed themselves of this situation of affairs, and by means of a contraband traffic, carried on with the connivance of the Spanish government, they continued to supply the inha- bitants of these provinces with European commodities, and to take the native productions in return, till the fortune of war placed Buenos Ay res for a short time in the hands of the British. The circumstances attending the capture of the city of Buenos Ayres, in June 1806, by an expedition equipped at the Cape of Good Hope, under the command of Sir Home Popham and General (now Lord) Beresford, are too well known to need recapitulation. l*he inactivity and incapacity of the then viceroy, the Marquis de Sobre Monte, on this occasion, are severely censured by Dean Funes, the historian of Buenos Ayres, and apparently with great justice; for it does not appear that he made any attempt to defend this import- ant city against the small British force, or to wrest it from the possession of the conquerors. This honour was reserved for Don Santiago Liniers, a Frenchman by birth, who had commanded one of the Spanish ships of war on this station. This officer, in the absence of the viceroy, who had retired to Cordoba, one hundred and sixty leagues distant from the capital, put himself at the head of all the troops he could muster on both banks of the Plata, and on the 12th of August attacked the city on different points with such success, that the British general was obliged to surrender himself and all his troops as prisoners of war. This fortunate result occasioned the first step to that revolution which has since separated these provinces from the mother country ; for the people of Buenos Ayres, indignant at the conduct of their viceroy, insisted on investing their d xxn INTRODUCTION. deliverer with the supreme civil and military authority, with the title of captain-general. The British government, unwilling to relinquish the important commercial advantages which the possession of the banks of the Plata seemed to promise, was meanwhile engaged in preparing an armament for their effectual reduction. In February 1807, Monte Video was taken by a British force under Sir Samuel Auchmuty; and General Whitelocke, who arrived in the Plata with a still more considerable army, thought himself strong enough to attempt to regain the capital. The cool determined valour of. the troops, and the energy mani- fested by the leaders of the several columns, in the memorable attack of the 5th of July, were, however, thwarted by the imbecility, or something worse, of the commander-in-chief, which involved the failure of the enterprise, and led to the ignominious capitulation by which he agreed to evacuate the whole of the Rio de la Plata, including Monte Video. The unprincipled invasion of Spain by the French, and the captivity of the royal family, which very soon followed this event, were not known at Buenos Ayres till towards the end of July 1808, when an emissary from Buonaparte conveyed to Liniers his version of the transactions in the Peninsula. Liniers assembled the principal civil officers, and in their presence the letters brought by this messenger were opened and read. An extraordinary sensation was excited in the minds of all who composed the meeting. " It would be impos- " sible," says F lines, " to communicate a just idea of the indignation produced " in Liniers by a proceeding which tended to make him an accomplice in the " most execrable villany, without citing his own expressions. Whilst reading " these letters, he interrupted the narration with this apostrophe: 'Vile and " ' infamous man !' alluding to Buonaparte, ' accustomed to be surrounded by INTRODUCTION. xxiii " ' flatterers, the Spaniards will teach thee, that it is not the same thing to com- " ' bat mercenary troops, and an energetic people raised to the highest pitch of " ' indignation and patriotism. The genuine Frenchmen by whom thou " * acquiredst thy glory when thy wars were just, and who have submitted to " ' thee in order to put an end to anarchy, will be the first to forsake thee, " * overwhelmed with shame at having beheld the throne of their legitimate " ' sovereigns prostituted and so long occupied by a foreigner, whose immoralitv " ' and baseness are as low as his birth.' ' It was agreed that the captain- general should publicly make known what was passing in the mother country. The French emissary was ordered to re-embark immediately, and Ferdinand VII. was proclaimed with great rejoicings. It was not long before the rank and popularity of Liniers began to excite the envy of Elio, then governor of Monte Video, who found means to persuade the people of the east bank to renounce their dependence on the captain-gene- ral, and to form a distinct junta, in imitation of those of Spain. His represen- tations also filled the central junta in Europe with suspicions of the fidelity of Liniers, and Don Baltazar Hidalgo de Cisneros was appointed to supersede him. The disastrous events which soon afterwards followed each other in rapid succession in the mother country, seemed to forebode nothing less than its com- plete subjugation by France. The central junta was dispersed and dissolved, after some of its members had vested their power in a regency of five persons, who addressed a proclamation to the Americans, frankly acknowledging the oppressions to which they had hitherto been subject, absolving them from any farther dependence on the Spanish government, and committing their future destiny to their own hands. These circumstances induced most of the American d 2 xxiv INTRODUCTION. provinces to establish independent governments for themselves. At Buenos Ayres, Cisneros informed the inhabitants of these events, at the same time avowing the uncertainty he felt respecting the maintenance of his own autho- rity. The cabildo, availing itself of this declaration, petitioned him to assemble a congress, which might decide what steps ought to be taken in such a juncture. The viceroy complied with the petition of the cabildo ; the congress met on the 22d May, 1810, and decided that a junta should be formed; which was accord- ingly done on the 25th of the same month. The junta was opposed by the Spanish chiefs in Paraguay, who, being assisted by Cisneros, the late viceroy, planned its overthrow. Liniers also raised an army of two thousand men for the same purpose, but being deserted by his troops, he was taken in the neighbourhood of Cordoba, with several of the principal opposers of the reA'olution in that quarter, who were all sentenced to die, and executed according^. Cisneros and the members of the audienza, being discovered to have entered into the plot, were exiled, and embarked for the Canary Islands. Elio, who had been appointed by the regency of Spain captain-general of the provinces of Rio de la Plata, and in that capacity exercised the supreme authority in the province of Monte Video, or Banda Oriental, was now the only formidable enemy to the junta. About this time, Don Jose Artigas, a native of Monte Video, and captain in the royalist troops, having some cause of dissatisfaction with the governor of Colonia, offered his services to the junta of Buenos Ayres in the beginning of the year 1811, and obtained assistance in arms, ammunition, and troops, for the purpose of exciting insurrection on the east bank of the Plata. The command of the troops was given to Rondeau, a South-American officer, who had been made prisoner by the English at Monte INTRODUCTION. xxv Video, and afterwards served in the war in Spain. Artigas and Rondeau several times defeated the royalists, especially in the battle of Las Piedras, in May 1811, when the Spanish troops defending La Banda Oriental were made pri- soners, with their commander. The conquerors, having received reinforcements from Buenos Ayres, then laid siege to Monte Video. Elio, finding himself incapable of making a long resistance, implored succour from the Portuguese government in Brasil, which sent a force of four thousand men to Monte Video. Notwithstanding their arrival, Elio made proposals of peace to the government of Buenos Ayres, and in November 1811, it was agreed that the troops of the latter should evacuate La Banda Oriental, and that the Portuguese should retire to their own territory. This treaty was soon broken, and the government of Buenos Ayres deter- mined again to besiege Monte Video, where Elio had been succeeded in the command by Don G. Vigodet, who had received a reinforcement of troops from Europe. The fortress held out till June 1814, when it capitulated, on condition that the garrison should be allowed to embark for Spain. The prisoners, amounting to five thousand five hundred, were, in defiance of the articles of capitulation, distributed through the interior provinces of Rio de la Plata, Vigodet alone being permitted to embark. A change had meanwhile taken place in the form of government. The junta of three, which had greatly retarded public affairs, was abolished by an assembly held on the 31st December, 1813, and in order to strengthen the hands of the executive power, it was vested in one person, with the title of supreme director, assisted by a council of seven members. This high office was con- ferred on Don Gervasio Posadas, who resigned it in January 1815, when he was succeeded by Colonel Alvear, who had commanded the army besieging Monte xxvi INTRODUCTION. Video at the time of its surrender. Of this town, Artigas demanded possession as chief of La Banda Oriental; the government of Buenos Ayres refused, to give it up, and he immediately commenced hostilities. In consequence of some successes obtained by one of his officers, Colonel Soler, who had been appointed governor of Monte Video, received orders to withdraw with the remnant of his troops from the town, of which Artigas immediately took possession. Being now determined to transfer the Avar into the province of Buenos Ayres, he marched to Santa Fe, and made himself master of that place. The new direc- tor dispatched two thousand men under Colonel Alvarez to oppose his progress, instead of which that officer arrested Alvear, and being supported by the army and the inhabitants of the capital, compelled him to resign his authority, on which he was allowed to embark in an English frigate. Another of those changes which are so common in popular governments now ensued. The supreme authority was vested in the municipality, who formed a junta of observation, to Avhich it intrusted the legislative power. A new pro- vincial constitution was published, and Rondeau was nominated supreme director; but as his military command required his presence with the army, Colo-: nel Alvarez was appointed his deputy. Alvarez convoked a new congress of the representatives of the province, but before it could assemble he was dispos- sessed of his authority by a popular commotion. Don Ramon Balcarce was then appointed supreme director, but soon removed, and the administration of public affairs placed in the hands of a committee; till on the meeting of the sovereign congress inTucuman on the 26th of March, 1816, Don Juan Martin de Pueyrredon, who is held in high estimation by his countrymen, was elected to the office of supreme director, which he still holds. On the 9th July fol- lowing, the congress published the following formal declaration of independence: INTRODUCTION. xxvii " We, the representatives of the United Provinces of Rio de la Plata, " assembled in a general congress, imploring the Supreme Being who presides " over the universe, calling on heaven, earth, and men to witness the justice " of our cause, in the name, and by the authority, of the people we represent, " solemnly declare, that it is the unanimous will of the said provinces to break " all the ties which united them to the kings of Spain, to be reinstated in all " those rights of which they were deprived, and thus to be raised to the rank " of a free and independent nation, capable henceforth of forming for itself such a " government as justice and circumstances imperiously demand. We are there- " fore empowered by the United Provinces at large, and by each one separately, " to declare and engage that they will support this independence. Their lives, " property, and fame shall be their guarantee. Out of respect for the nations " whom our fate may interest, and feeling the necessity of declaring the weighty " reasons which impel us thus to act, we decree that a manifesto shall be pub- " lished." Among the persons exiled from Buenos Ayres with Alvear in April 1815, there were several besides himself who encouraged the Portuguese government in its favourite plan for extending its American dominions to the Rio de la Plata. In consequence of their representations, an army of ten thousand men was as- sembled in Brasil, and under the command of General Lecor invaded La Banda Oriental on two different sides. In spite of the opposition of Artigas, who proved himself the steady friend of independence by his refusal of the rank of brigadier offered by the Spanish government to induce him to espouse the royal cause, Lecor reached Maldonada in December 1816, and on the 20th January following entered Monte Video, which is still held by the Portuguese, though they are greatly harassed by the guerrillas of Artigas, who occupy all the sur- xxviii INTRODUCTION. rounding country, and cut off all the supplies of provisions from the interior. With the exception of Monte Video, Artigas has possession of the whole of La Banda Oriental, which he governs independently; and a good understanding subsists between him and the congress, whose authority, after a long struggle, carried on with various vicissitudes against the royalists on the frontiers of Peru and Chili, is now acknowledged by the whole of the provinces of Rio de la Plata. These provinces, twenty in number, are divided, according to their situation, into high and low. The former are, Moxos and Chiquitos, Apalobamba, Santa Cruz de la Sierra, La Paz, Cochahamba, Carangas, Misque, Paria, Charcas, Potosi, and Atacama; the latter, Tarija, Salta, Paraguay, Tucu man, Cordoba, Cuyo, Entrerios, Monte Video, or Banda Oriental, and Buenos Ayres. The total population of this immense tract does not exceed one million three hundred thousand souls. Since this Introduction was written, Pueyrredon has been dispossessed of the supreme directorship of the United Provinces of La Plata; and the chief authority has several times changed hands in the struggle which has ensued, and does not appear to be yet terminated. ■ Ko«a» . o 1 ■ . ; SClrfp} ■ . & xi Esq . del . OF BUENOS AYRES AND MONTE VIDEO MONTE VIDEO, FROM THE ANCHORAGE OUTSIDE THE HARBOUR. On the east bank of the Rio de la Plata, one hundred miles from Cape St. Mary, its extreme east point, stands the city of Monte Video, on a small pro- montory, with a spacious bay on its northern side, forming a tolerable harbour for small vessels; but such as draw more than eleven feet water cannot lie there in safety. On the other side of the bay, opposite to the city, is a hill of consi- derable elevation, from which it takes its name. At the entrance of the river, in the rear of Maldonado, the last mountains are seen by the navigator, and with the hill of Monte Video, he takes leave of high land; the whole shore on both sides being afterwards so low, that it cannot be discovered from a ship's deck in the passage upwards, which is directed by the soundings. This hill may be seen at the distance of twelve or even sixteen leagues. It was in 1724 that orders were issued by the court of Spain for the founda- tion of this place, the settlement of which Avas commenced in 1726, with about twenty families brought from Palma, one of the Canary Islands, by Don Bruno de Zabala, then governor of the province of Rio de la Plata. The motives of B 2 MONTE VIDEO. the Spanish government in forming this establishment were, to anticipate the Portuguese, who had manifested an intention to take possession of the whole north bank of the river, and to prevent the contraband trade which was boldly- carried on in these parts. Sensible of the importance of the place, the Spa- niards took great pains to fortify it, and rendered it much stronger than Buenos Ayres. A wall and ditch are carried across the isthmus, on which side alone it is not surrounded by the sea ; and it is defended by forts along the sea front. On a rising ground, in the centre of the isthmus, is a fort with four bastions, mounted with brass cannon, which commands the approach by the harbour, but is too distant to throw shells over the town. The barracks are said to be bomb-proof. The town makes a handsome appearance from the harbour, being built upon an ascent, and the houses interspersed with trees and gardens. Few of the houses exceed one story: they are of stone and brick, and have flat roofs, with- out chimneys; the fire being generally kindled in the yard, or in a detached kitchen, and brought into the rooms in fire-pans when the weather is wet or cold. The streets are broad, and intersect each other at right angles, but they are unpaved. Near the top of the town is the market-place, about 300 yards square, and on the west a large church. There is also a convent of Cordeliers. Monte Video is acknowledged to be an admirable station for trade, having a tolerably good harbour*, a central position for collecting produce, and the * Azara, whose means of furnishing accurate information cannot be questioned, nevertheless asserts that this port is gradually becoming shallower, and there is reason to apprehend that it will soon be rendered unserviceable. He says, moreover, that it is exposed to violent winds, which occasion the more frequent accidents to shipping, because the bottom is a soft mud, that affords no hold for the anchors, and rots the cables and timbers. MONTE VIDEO. 3 navigation of the river so far being attended with little danger. It rose, in consequence of these advantages, to be a very flourishing place; but the political revolutions which have convulsed almost the whole of Spanish America, have involved Monte Video in ruin. The city itself is gone to decay, and though the Portuguese, who have lately taken possession of it, are making some improvements, still, as the distracted state of the country has put an end to all commerce, the means for carrying into effect any plans for that purpose are extremely limited. There was for- merly a very extensive suburb, with many elegant villas belonging to the Spanish merchants of the city; but it has been so completely desolated during the con- test for independence, that some broken walls and part of a chapel are all that now remains of what once contained a population of six thousand souls. Pre- viously to this struggle, there were fourteen thousand inhabitants within the walls; this number is now reduced to five thousand. The country bordering on the east bank of the river, and denominated by the Spaniards, Banda Oriental, consists of very extensive ranges of gentle ele- vations. The soil forms but a scanty covering for the solid rock, that is found underneath throughout the whole tract, and furnishes the inhabitants with an excellent building material. On the heights of Maldonado and Monte Video, and on the frontiers of Brasil, in a space of perhaps one thousand square leagues, this rock is so near the surface, that there is not a sufficient depth of soil for cultivation, or for trees to take root in it. Though the country is consequently destitute of wood, yet, being somewhat diversified by the undulation of the hills, it possesses in this respect a decided superiority over the west bank. The soil in general consists of clay, of a blackish colour on the surface, from the remains of decayed vegetables; lower down it is stiffer, and of different colours B 2 4 MONTE VIDEO. — white, red, yellow, and variegated. The first is used, diluted in water, instead of lime, to whitewash the houses in the country; and the red and yellow are employed for painting trellis-work. The yellow, if purified a little, yields a fine ochre. The jewellers of Paraguay make crucibles of the brownish yellow clay; and that of a dark colour is used for dishes and plates of very good qua- lity, though all the baking they receive consists in filling the vessels with wood and setting fire to it. The Rio de la Plata, at Monte Video, is fifty miles across in a direct line to Point Indio, on the west bank; the water is brackish, and in no part of the distance more than five fathoms deep. BUENOS AYRES, FROM THE BANK BETWEEN THE OUTER AND INNER ROADS. Buenos Ayres is situated on the west bank of the Rio de la Plata, above two hundred miles from its mouth. It is built upon a bank, from fifteen to twenty feet above the river, which is the general level of the country behind it; but on the border of the river to the south of the citj'", this bank recedes rapidly, leaving a flat marshy interval, from a quarter of a mile to four miles in breadth. To the north, the bank does not recede so far, leaving not more than half a mile of low marshy ground for the space of sixteen miles. At this distance it again approaches and overhangs the river, as at Buenos Ayres, having on its brow the pretty village of San Isidro, which is a kind of watering-place and summer residence for the citizens. Two miles farther, at another village, called the Punta, the bank suddenly leaves the river, falling back due west; and below it, as far as the eye can reach, is a flat swampy country, covered with rushes and thickets — a perfect jungle, chiefly consisting of espinilla (thorn), much of which is cut and sent to Buenos Ayres for fire-wood. It affords harbour to nume- rous panthers. About two miles beyond the Punta, on the flat, is the village of Las Conchas, situated on a small stream, which falls into the river Luxan a little before it 6 BUENOS AYRES. joins the Plata. To this place vessels of tolerable burden can come ; and here all those from Paraguay, which bring down matte, or Paraguay tea, wood, cordage, sail-cloth, cotton manufactures, hides and tallow, discharge their cargoes, which are carted to Buenos Ayres, and receive European commodities to return up the river. The principal reasons for the adoption of this practice, which is attended with the inconvenience of land carriage for so great a distance, are, the safety of the vessels in the port, and the security of the cargoes in loading and discharging. At Buenos Ayres, on the other hand, the anchorage is bad and open, so that in a hard gale vessels seldom hold their ground, par- ticularly the country craft, which have cables made of the bark of a tree, that is very tough when new, but soon rots; and great delay is often experienced during rough weather, when carts are prevented from discharging the craft, which some- times lie exposed many days on this account, and goods, when they can be removed, are often injured by the wet. The tree from the bark of which the cables just mentioned are made, is, doubtless, the guenbe described by Azara; who, however, expressly asserts that this kind of cordage is not liable to rot. The guenbe, he says, is a parasite plant, which grows on the tops of the highest trees when they begin to decay. Its stem is about as thick as a man's arm, from three to five feet high ; and there are several to each plant. It produces an ear, which exactly resembles that of maize, as well as the seeds, that are very commonly eaten, because they have a sweetish taste. From the top of the trees in which these plants have fixed themselves, they throw out straight roots, without knots, of the thickness of a finger, which sometimes fail quite perpendicularly, and at others twine round the trunk, and then strike into the ground. They are cut at the top with a knife fixed upon a reed; and their bark, which is very fine, and easily separated, is BUENOS AYRES. 7 used for making all the cables and cordage employed in the navigation of the Paraguay, without any other preparation than wetting it when dry. This cord- age is cheap, never rots in water or mud, but as it is not so strong as that of hemp, it is made somewhat thicker; it is also much injured by friction. The Spanish frigates have, nevertheless, occasionally used this kind of cordage with advantage. This bark, which is of a dark violet colour, is also employed in ornamenting rush mats and baskets. The ybira, another native plant, which furnishes materials for cordage, is a species of the aloe family, and produces a fruit resembling the pine-apple, but good for nothing. The leaves, which are not very thorny, are from three to five feet long, not above two inches broad, and of inconsiderable thickness. These leaves are pulled off, and dew-retted like hemp, after which, the skin that covers each side may be easily separated with the fingers, when nothing is left but the interior fibres, called caraguata. In this state, without any farther ope- ration, shoemakers' thread is drawn from it; or after it has been dressed a little with a comb, formed of six or eight nails, it is used for caulking vessels, in preference to hemp, because this kind of oakum never gets loose or rots in the water. From the appearance of the caraguata, it would be taken for hemp; and no doubt it would answer for making sail-cloth, rigging, cables, or any other articles of that kind. Azara mentions a friend of his who had a piece of rope an inch thick, made of caraguata, and on comparing it with another of the same dimensions made in the royal arsenals with hemp, the former was found to be the stronger of the two. He thinks that it would be scarcely flexible enough for the ropes used for working a ship, but that there can be nothing better for cables. 8 BUENOS AYRES. In the annexed view, the whole length of the city is seen extending from north to south about two miles, including the suburb. It is generally half a mile broad, and rather more in the centre. The vessels are represented in the inner roads, which form a harbour, with commonly two fathoms water, between the shore and an extensive sand-bank, that forbids the approach of vessels requiring a greater depth, nearer than six or eight miles. Into this harbour, called the Balisas, small vessels proceed at once; but the larger discharge part of their cargoes into river craft in the outer roads, and then come into the inner, for greater security and convenience: there they take in half their loading, and return to the outer roads, whither the remainder of their cargoes is brought to them by the river craft. One of these is seen returning light over the bank; but loaded craft cannot enter the same way, for want of water, and are obliged to pass through a channel to the northward. A British man of war's boat is shewn going in shore, as those ships always lie in the outer roads, or Amarradero, where there is excellent anchorage, and where vessels have been known to remain for a great length of time without accident. The Spanish ship of war the Vigilant, among others, is said to have lain here nine years. The water at this place is alvvaj^s perfectly fresh, and the river thirty miles across to the nearest point on the opposite shore. Buenos Ayres has another port, ten leagues to the south-east of the city, called the Bay of Barragon, where the king's ships used to lie before the foun- dation of Monte Video. It is formed by the rivulet of Santiago, which can receive vessels drawing twelve feet water, but none larger. Hither ships, after discharging the cargoes they have brought in lighters in the roads of Buenos Ayres, repair to wait for their outward cargoes. BUENOS AYRES. 9 Before Buenos Ayres became the seat of a viceroy, it was considered as the fourth city in rank in South America; but since that period it has been held as inferior to none but Lima. It has also increased rapidly, from the same circum- stance, in opulence and population. It is regularly built, the streets being per- fectly straight and broad, unpaved in the middle, but having footpaths on each side. The houses are supposed to amount to six thousand; and the number of inhabitants, which used to be estimated at forty thousand, is now reckoned not fewer than seventy thousand. Most of the buildings, both public and private, formerly had mud walls; but a Jesuit, who was employed to erect the church of his college, between seventy and eighty years ago, instructed the inhabitants in the art of making bricks and lime*, and the cityr has since assumed a very dif- ferent appearance. The architecture of the cathedral, and of most of the churches, is likewise ascribed to the lay-brothers of that community, who employed the Indians under their care in the execution of these and many other public works. Thus, it is recorded that, in 1663 and the following years, five hundred of those people were engaged upon the fortifications, the port, and the cathedral of Buenos Ayres. The latter is a spacious and handsome struc- ture, having an elegant cupola, and a portico, the design and execution of which are highly extolled. The interior is profusely decorated with carving and gilding. The dome contains paintings in compartments, representing the Acts of the Apostles. The church of the Franciscans, and that belonging to the order of Mercy, are next in rank ; both have steeples and cupolas, nearly in the same style as those of the cathedral. In the former, there is a painting of the Last Supper, which is esteemed a very capital performance, considering that * The lime of Buenos Ayres is of very bad quality, being made from shells, which are found in beds, as there is no limestone in the country. c 10 BUENOS AYRES. it was executed by a native artist, an Indian convert, in one of the missions on the Uraguay. The frame is also remarkable for being composed entirely of feathers of a bright gold colour, so ingeniously put together, as to have the appearance, even to the closest observer, of the nicest carving and gilding, and it is only by the touch that the difference can be discovered. This picture was given to the Franciscans by the Jesuits, not long before their suppression. The church of St. John, on the skirts of the town, is appropriated to the use of the converted Indians. There are several convents and nunneries, and all these edifices are built of a beautifully white stone, found in a plain not far from the town. The whiteness of the public buildings is preserved and height- ened by the frequency of the wind called pampero, which is regarded as an excellent bleacher. The principal streets are named Calle del Santa Trinidada and Calle del Victoria. The former, which faces the grand entrance to the cathedral, runs nearly the whole length of the city, and is occupied by the superior class of the inhabitants. Almost every house has a garden both before and behind, and many have latticed balconies, in which odoriferous shrubs and flowers are reared. Among the European flowers cultivated here, the carna- tions are the largest in the world. The climate of Buenos Ayres is proverbial for its salubrity, as is indicated by its name. Situated between the 34th and 35th degrees of south latitude, it enjoys a temperature nearly resembling that of the southern regions of Europe. It is considered as an ordinary winter when there are but three or four days on which water is slightly frozen ; it is reckoned severe when this effect is more frequent. The winds here are three times as violent as at Assumption, the capital of Paraguay; the west wind, which is scarcely known at the latter city, being probably intercepted by the Andes, though more than two hundred BUENOS AYRES. 11 leagues distant, is more common at Buenos Ayres. Here the winds are least boisterous in autumn, but stronger and more steady in spring and summer, when they raise clouds of dust; which sometimes darken the sun, and greatly incom- mode the inhabitants, soiling their clothes, and covering their apartments and furniture. The most violent winds are those from south-west to south-east: the latter always bring rain in winter, but not in summer. Hurricanes are rare, but they sometimes occur, as that of the 14th May, 1799, which overthrew half of the village of Atira in Paraguay, killed thirty-six persons, removed a great number of carts, and (so at least Azara tells us) tore off the head of a horse, the animal having been fastened by the neck. On the 18th September, the same year, another occurred, which stranded eight large vessels and many smaller ones on the beach off Monte Video. In this country, the atmosphere is moist, and spoils the furniture, especially at Buenos Ayres, where the floors of rooms exposed to the south are always damp : the walls which have the same aspect are covered with moss, and that side of the roofs is overgrown with thick grass, nearly three feet high, so that it is necessary to clear them every two or three j'ears, to prevent the water from lodging and soaking through. This humidity, however, is by no means preju- dicial to health. It seldom happens that the vapours are sufficiently condensed to form fogs; the sky is clear and serene; and it is recorded that snow never fell but once at Buenos Ayres, and then in very small quantity. This phenomenon produced the same effect upon the people of the country as rain does upon the inhabitants of Lima, who, when they go from home for the first time, are astonished at the sight of rain, which is unknown in that city. Hail is very rare; yet in the storm of the 7th of October, 1789, twelve leagues from Assumption, a shower C 2 12 BUENOS AYRES. fell, the stones of which were three inches in diameter. The surest sign of rain is a bar which is seen fixed at the horizon in the west at sunset. A brisk north wind is an indication of rain on the day after the next. The same effect may be expected, when at night-fall lightning is observed in the south-west, when a suffocating heat is felt, and when the opposite coast is seen from Buenos Ayres. In all seasons, but more particularly in summer, there are frequent showers of rain, accompanied with lightning; the claps of thunder follow one another with scarcely any intermission, and the sky appears to be one sheet of fire. The lightning is dangerous, especially if the storm come from the north-west. During such a storm on the 21st January, 1793, the lightning struck thirty-seven times in the interior of the city of Buenos Ayres, and killed nineteen persons. These storms, the great quantity of rain, and the violent thunder and light- ning, cannot be attributed to the influence either of woods or mountains; there is not a mountain within the distance of one hundred leagues; nor is there a single tree to the south of the Rio de la Plata, or to the north as far as Para- guay, unless it be on the banks of the rivulets: hence we may infer, that it is the nature of the atmosphere which produces such meteors at all seasons, and much more frequently than in Europe. Notwithstanding these circumstances, there is not a more salubrious climate in the world; for the vicinity of marshes and inundated lands, which are frequently met with, has no ill effect whatever upon the health of the inhabitants. The Spaniards who reside in the government of Buenos Ayres, proceed rather from the continual recruits that arrive from Europe, than from the intermixture with Indians, whose number has always been inconsiderable in this country; for which reason they speak the Spanish language. The cities of Buenos Ayres, Monte Video, Maldonado, Assumption, Corrientes, and Santa Fe de la Vera BUENOS AYRES. 13 Cruz, may be considered as the only Spanish towns in the extensive province of Paraguay. Though there are villages and hamlets, yet the inhabitants are not united on one spot, but live dispersed in the country in detached houses, at a great distance from one another: so that there are no other residents near the church, than perhaps the parish priest, a farrier, a shopkeeper, and a publican. Even when any of the parishioners build themselves a cottage in the village, they never make use of it but when they attend mass, or on some religious fes- tival, after which they return to their habitations in the country. The cities above-mentioned contain about as many Spaniards as all the rest of the pro- vince. They consider themselves as beings of a far superior class to the Indians, negroes, and people of colour; and so decided is the aversion for Europeans entertained in return by the Creoles, or the offspring of Spaniards born in Ame- rica, that it often manifests itself between children and parents, or between husband and wife, when they happen to be natives of different hemispheres. Among the Spaniards, as soon as a child is born, it is consigned to the charge of a mulatto, negro, or Indian nurse, who takes care of it till it attains the age of six years, or perhaps more. During that period, the child cannot see any thing worthy of imitation. Add to this a dislike of every kind of employ- ment, which is much stronger in America than any where else, because the essence of gentility is thought to consist in doing nothing. Imbued with these principles and the notion of equality, the children of the meanest artisan dis- dain every kind of labour, and look upon it as beneath them to follow their father's occupation. Their chief vices are, a passion for women and gambling; and among the lowest class, drunkenness: but they possess acute perception and sound understandings; so that with the same facilities as Europeans, they would no doubt equal, if not surpass the latter. The mechanical arts are confined to 14 BUENOS AYRES. 'such as are absolutely indispensable ; and these are practised only by poor Spaniards from Europe, or by people of colour. The women of Buenos Ay res, Monte Video, and Maldonado, are not fond of spinning either wool or cotton; but in the other towns, females follow that employment. The customs, dress, and fashions, are much the same as in Spain; but at Buenos Ayres and Monte Video, which are the most considerable and opulent places, luxury is greater, and the domestic establishments on a larger scale. m a & ^ 15 LANDING AT BUENOS AYRES. Near the centre of the city, a little to the north of the citadel, is constructed a mole of rough stone, intended for a landing-place. It is about two hun- dred yards long, twelve wide, and six high. Notwithstanding this projection, the river is so shoal, that boats are very seldom able to approach it, and five or six carts are constantly plying for the purpose of landing passengers. The fare is two rials, or about fifteen pence each trip, be the distance small or great: sometimes it is but a few yards, while at others the cart must go a quarter of a mile before it reaches the boats; for with northerly and north-west winds, par- ticularly if strong, the water is driven out of the river to such a degree, that its bed is frequently dry for that distance. It has even occurred within the last ten years, that men have gone out on horseback on the bed of the river to the dis- tance of five miles from the shore, during a strong north-west wind; nay, it is related, on the most respectable authority, that, about twenty-five years ago, during a strong northerly wind, the water disappeared, and left an horizon of mud to the people of Buenos Ayres. Such a circumstance might happen, since the river is here thirty miles across, and has no more than three fathoms water in the deepest part, excepting close to the opposite shore of Colonia, where is a narrow channel of four, five, and six fathoms. A contrary effect is produced by an easterly wind, which, if violent, always raises the water at Buenos Ayres; so that in a strong gale from that quarter, the mole is sometimes 16 LANDING AT BUENOS AYRES. covered, with the exception of the extreme point, which is higher than the rest, and has a battery of three guns. Thus these winds, according to their direc- tion, cause the river to rise or fall perhaps not less than seven feet. Mention is made of a phenomenon still more extraordinary, inasmuch as no satisfactory reason could be assigned for it. On one occasion, when none of those winds prevailed, the water fell to such a degree, as to recede three leagues from the shore at Buenos Ayres : in this state it remained for a whole day, and then gra- dually rose again to its usual height. At the mole passengers only are allowed to be landed, all goods being taken to the custom-house, off which the craft are seen lying in the back-ground. Here, however, is also a risguardo, or custom-house watch-house, for the pre- vention of smuggling, with officers to examine persons who embark or land; especially the former, who are not allowed by the sentinel on the mole to pass, till they have presented themselves at the watch-house, and it is ascertained that they are not carrying off bullion. British officers in uniform are exempted from this search, their word of honour being deemed sufficient. 17 THE FORT. The Fort of Buenos Ayres is a square building of brick and stone, with a dry ditch on three faces, and a drawbridge into the market-place. It is the resi- dence of the Chief Director of the United Provinces, and the government offices are within its walls. This view is taken from under the mole-head, on a summer evening. Behind the Fort are seen the churches of San Francisco and San Domingo, in the street formerly called del San Benito, but now named the Street of Victory, from the surrender of General Craufurd in the latter church. The bank upon which the city is built here overhangs the river, and in high tides the walls of the Fort are washed by the waves: in general, however, there is a passage between it and the water. In summer this spot is a favourite bathing-place, being the centre of the water-front of the city. Here men and women bathe promiscuously, but with- out scandal. The women undress on the beach in parties, leaving a servant to take care of their clothes, which they drop from under a large loose bathing- dress. As the water is very shallow, they walk out into it till it is about two feet deep, and then sit down, and wash and comb each other. From an hour before sunset till dark, thousands of females bathe here during the summer months, and afterwards walk on the beach, with their long hair hanging to dry D 18 THE FORT. nearly down to the ground. Some bathe earlier, and these are accompanied by a servant, who holds an umbrella over them as a screen and shade. The beach is covered with grassy knolls, overflowed at high water, con- taining numbers of little pits, which the tide leaves full, and which are the resort of washerwomen, who are to be seen at work here by hundreds every day, great holidays excepted. Each family sends a slave or two; but many of these people follow the occupation of washing for a subsistence. They not only use soap in this operation, but likewise beat the clothes with wooden mallets, and dry them on the grass. The Fort mounts a considerable number of guns, and, with the mole* com- mands the anchorage of the inner roads. At the time of the capture of the city by the British troops in 1806, they found here about forty pieces of cannon, of various calibers, mounted, and two thousand stand of arms. The usual garrison was seven hundred men; and about three thousand of the provincial militia were supposed to be always in readiness to co-operate with the regulars. < < 19 WATER-CARTS. The country round Buenos Ayres, and indeed the whole of Paraguay, may be said to form one vast plain, so level that Azara concludes from actual obser- vation, that, in a space of upwards of six degrees, the course of the rivers of Paraguay falls no more than one foot in each marine league of latitude. One consequence of this formation is, that the country can never be watered by ar- tificial canals, and that neither water-mills nor any other hydraulic machines can be introduced. Neither will it admit of any aqueduct for a fountain, be- cause the water of the rivers and smaller streams has but just the fall requisite for carrying them off: no spot is perceptibly lower than another, and the whole is nearly horizontal. Buenos Ayres and other towns are situated upon rivers, and yet without the aid of steam-engines the inhabitants will never be able to conduct water into them for the purposes either of ornament or utility. The first object, therefore, that generally strikes the eye of a stranger on landing, is a water-cart. These carts ply all day, except during the heats of summer, when they work only in the morning and evening, and the whole city is supplied by their means; for the wells, though numerous, produce nothing but bad, brackish water, unfit for culinary purposes: the number of carts is consequently considerable. D 2 20 WATER-CARTS. The cask is commonly a butt or puncheon, which is raised upon wheels eight feet high, to enable the carts to go deep into the water, that it may be procured as clean as possible. The bucket contains about four gallons, and four times this quantity drawn off and deposited by the driver in the yard of the house, where a cask is always kept for the purpose, costs half a rial. The piece of hide which hangs at the tail of the cart, is laid upon the ground to keep the bucket clean, while the latter is filling by means of the hose attached to the back-head of the butt. The construction of these carts is curious, no iron being used in it. They are built of hard Paraguay wood. Three long beams and two cross ones com- pose the frame, which is bolted together with wooden pins. The centre beam, as in all the other carts, is long enough to serve for a pole; and to its end is lashed with hide thongs a stout cross beam, notched on each side, in the direc- tion of the lacings by which the bullock's horns are attached to it. In this country those animals draw by the horns alone; and would to humanity this were their only suffering ! Wretched beyond description is the lot of the water- cart oxen. Loaded or not, the driver sits on the beam by which they draw, and with the goad in one hand, and a large wooden mallet in the other, never ceases, in winter when the ways are bad and the mud deep, to goad their sides and beat their horns. May we not lay it down as an axiom, that human nature is prone to abuse every thing that a bounteous Providence has furnished in plenty for its use? In the generality of cases, it is to be feared this maxim will be found but too true; and to the present it is strictly applicable. The excessive abundance of cattle has produced a wantonness in the use, or rather abuse, of domestic animals, WATER-CARTS. 21 that must appear almost incredible to those who have not witnessed it* : thus the human being who to his fellow-man is hospitable and compassionate, is to his beast the most barbarous of tyrants. In the bad ways and deep muddy tracks to the river frequented by these carts, often do the merciless drivers make the helpless oxen bellow with their torture, using as much exertion in beating and in contrivances to urge on the wretched animals, as, added to their strength, would suffice to move the unwieldy machine out of its bed; but so far from attempting to apply this remed)^ the persecutor still keeps his seat on the horn- beam, and takes especial care lest his naked legs should touch the mud. Hu- manity shudders at the scene; while the long habit of cruelty causes the native to stare in astonishment at a foreigner who expresses compassion, and to wonder how an ox can be the object of his notice. The water-carts are furnished with a bell, to give notice of their approach; and in this instance, the driver has placed his saint (a doll) on the top of one of the poles. It is not unlikely that this inconvenient mode of supplying the city with one of the prime necessaries of life and health will be continued, till some enterprising Englishman shall prove the practicability of a less expensive and infinitely less troublesome method. Such a speculation, in a place like Buenos Ayres, could not fail to prove alike lucrative and honourable. In the science of hydraulics, as applied to this most useful of purposes, Britain indeed displays a pre-emi- nence, of which we may justly be proud; for while most of our provincial towns of any importance enjoy the comfort of a constant and abundant supply of * It is related as a fact, that, to fill up a hole in the road, recourse is sometimes had to the expedient of killing one of a team, in order to make the passage of the wheels easier to the rest. 22 WATER-CARTS. water, which is conducted into the very houses of their inhabitants, there is scarcely a metropolis of any other country which can boast of the like contri- vance. An Englishman, Mr. B. H. Latrobe, is at this moment engaged in introducing it into the United States of America, where Philadelphia already experiences its invaluable benefits, in the mitigation, if not prevention, of the ravages of the yellow fever ; and at the notoriously unhealthy town of New- Orleans, to which the above-mentioned engineer is about to transfer his ope- rations, increased cleanliness will infallibly be attended with increased salubrity. A French writer, who has recently published a Tour, made in 1816 and 17, from New- York to New-Orleans, assures us, that before the foot-pavements were laid down in the latter city, the ladies were obliged to wade barefoot and barelegged through the deep mire to the assembly-rooms, each followed by a slave carrying her shoes and stockings, which, after the ball, were again taken off, and these de- licate Transatlantic fair-ones returned home in the same state as they had come. The annexed view is taken at the north end of the city, looking up the river. ©> 23 THE MARKET-PLACE OF BUENOS AYRES. This view is taken from the north corner of the Market-square, having a guard-house on the right, and the fort on the left next to the river. The Re- cova, in front, is a brick building covered with cement, and in some parts faced with stone. It is one hundred and fifty yards long, and about twenty-one wide, surrounded by a piazza, having shops within on each side. Behind, on the left, is seen the Collegio, formerly the Jesuits' college and church. The south face is a range of spirit-houses, and at the east end of them is the Beef-market, in- closed with a wall, and having shambles all round. Between the Beef-market and the fort stand the fish-carts. Vegetables and fruit are sold in front of the spirit-houses, and under the south piazza. A double line is formed from the north to the south angle by the dealers in poultry, eggs, &c. ; and in the peach season, a range of carts stands between them and the piazza; under which, how- ever, in wet weather, all who have not carts seek a sheltered station. Ladies never go to market; gentlemen sometimes take the trouble; but in general it is left to a servant, or rather a confidential slave. Two of these are seen in the fore-ground with their provision for the day, of which two articles are remarkable — partridges and armadillos. Of partridges there are two sorts in this country — small and large. The small differ but little from our own ; the large are of the size of a pheasant, but in form, plumage, and habits, exactly correspond with the others, excepting the 24 MARKET-PLACE OF BUENOS AYRES. bill, which is elongated, and curved so as to resemble a curlew's. This last species is never taken at a less distance than forty miles from the city; but birds of the small kind abound even close to the suburbs. Notwithstanding the dis- tance from which the large partridges are brought, the market is always plen- tifully supplied with them during the first three months after Lent, before the roads become very bad. All the partridges of this country run in pairs, and are never sprung in coveys. They get up singly, but when one is sprung, the sportsman may generally find a second. It is difficult to make them rise; the larger sort cannot be roused oftener than twice, each time taking a short flight, and then suffering themselves to be caught by hand. The mode in which the country people take these birds is remarkable. The partridges, being used to cattle, will not rise unless turned out by man on foot, or h}' a dog. The countryman, therefore, who never stirs but on horseback, provides himself with a noose of twisted horse-hair, at the end of a long Para- guay cane, or bamboo. From his elevated position he sees the birds running; as he approaches, they crouch and suffer him to pass close to them, when he drops the noose over one of their heads, and raising the bamboo, secures his prize. The market supply is not, as may be supposed, dependent on this method, but is procured by means of nets. Hide panniers, containing bushels of these birds, are brought in every day, and deposited in piles in the market-place, where the partridges are retailed, so very abundant are both sorts, the large, commonly at a rial and a half each; the small, two and sometimes three for a rial, about six or seven pence sterling. MARKET-PLACE OF BUENOS AYRES. 25 The armadillos are brought by the Indians from a distance of forty leagues in the interior, where they are numerous, and burrow like rabbits. One of these animals, weighing from four to six pounds, generally costs two rials; they are delicious eating, very much resembling a sucking pig. Instead of hair, they are covered with a testaceous armour, which is not of one piece, but divided into several bands, joined together by membranes. They are baked in this shell, and though not very prepossessing in appearance at table, certainly look no worse than the hare, which custom has reconciled to us. The armadillo is a harmless animal, except in gardens. He walks quickly, but can neither leap, run, nor climb trees: he has therefore no other means of escape from pursuers, than to hide himself in a hole, or if there should not happen to be any in the way, to dig one before he is overtaken ; and for this purpose he requires but a few moments. He is hunted by small dogs; before they reach him, he always contracts himself into a round form, and in this state he is taken; but should he happen to be near the brink of a precipice, he escapes both dogs and hunters, by rolling down like a ball, without injury, under the protection of his coat of mail. All vegetables are dear at Buenos Ayres, as is likewise fruit, with the ex- ception of peaches, which, in the season, are sold from ten to sixteen for a medio, about three-pence. The water-melons are excellent, and the most reason- able in price of all the other kinds of fruit, which, however, are not very nu- merous : strawberries, grapes of many sorts, figs, apples, pears, and melons, compose the list. Though the almond and plum-tree grow very rapidly and produce flowers here, they bear no fruit. The peach-tree in Paraguay is nearly as barren. In the province of Rio de la Plata, however, this tree yields abundance of fruit, E 26 MARKET-PLACE OF BUENOS AYRES. which is highly esteemed. Some years since, four or five species of peach-trees were brought to Buenos Ayres from Chili and other parts of America, which also produce good fruit, and which might be advantageously introduced into Europe, where they are unknown. The damson has not been long cultivated in this country. A person to whom a box of cabbage and lettuce seeds was sent from Italy, accidentally found in it two damson stones, and not knowing what they were, planted them, to see what they would produce. Such was the origin of all the trees of this kind in the province of Rio de la Plata. The pears are bad, and the cherries good for nothing: there are none in Paraguay. The apples are good at Monte Video, middling at Buenos Ayres, and in Paraguay the trees produce no fruit at all. Neither has the latter country any olive-trees, though at Buenos Ayres they thrive extremely well, and bear fruit every year. The oranges and other similar fruit are abundant, and very good. All our common vegetables thrive at Buenos Ayres, except potatoes, which never exceed marbles in size, the soil being too stiff for them. 27 THE PLAZA, OR GREAT SQUARE OF BUENOS AYRES. This view of the Plaza, or great square of Buenos Ayres, is taken from under the centre arch of the Recova, described in the preceding article, which forms the east side of it. On the north are some good private houses, and the cathedral, part of which is seen. The Cabildo, or Town-hall, occupies the west side, having also a piazza. On the south is a range of mean low shops, with a broad pavement in front, on which are hucksters' stalls, with every kind of small European hardware. It was intended to continue the Recova along this side, so as to form a covered way round three sides of the square, but the plan has not been completed for want of funds. The Cabildo is chiefly used as a prison; but there are public rooms above, where the municipal officers sometimes meet, and from the balcony in front, harangue the citizens on public occasions, and display standards or other trophies taken from their enemies. At one extremity of this building is a guard-room, and after sunset every person passing is challenged by the sentinel. In the centre of the square is a small obelisk, erected to commemorate the declaration of the independence of Buenos Ayres and the associated provinces, and known by the appellation of the Altar of Liberty. E 2 28 THE PLAZA. In this square all public processions are formed, and all public exhibitions, such as dances, fire-works, and illuminations, on days of rejoicing take place. On occasion of religious festivals, the display of gold and silver, precious stones, relics, and rarities, exceeds the most splendid exhibitions of the kind in the Catholic states of Europe. The ceremonies attending the celebration of the festival of Corpus Christi are thus described by an eyewitness : The morning was ushered in by the ringing of bells, the firing of cannon, and other similar demonstrations of joy. At ten o'clock, upon a signal given from the governor's house, the community prepared to join in the general ca- valcade, and assembled in the great square. The religious orders assembled in their respective dresses, novices, lay-brothers, and fathers, with music, cho- risters, banners, pictures, and precious relics. It seemed as if people from all parts of the earth were collected together, presenting every different shade of complexion, from the white and ruddy inhabitants of northern Europe, to the sable native of Guinea. The outsides of the houses round the square were hung with festoons of flowers, and live birds, tied with strings to prevent their escape, but long enough to permit them to flutter sufficiently to expand their beautiful plumage — a contrivance which had a very picturesque effect. On the firing of a volley by a party of soldiers, the whole garrison being drawn up on one side of the square, the procession commenced. The military, fully accou- tred, first filed off two and two, with martial music, halting at intervals to dis- charge their pieces; the church-bells ringing, and the ships in the harbour sa- luting. Next came the religious of the order of St. Francis ; then a second division of the military, and the choristers of the cathedral; these were followed by the monastic orders of St. Jago and St. Dominic; then appeared the host, borne upon a richly decorated and lofty altar, and surrounded by all the people THE PLAZA. 29 of the first rank in the city, superbly dressed, some of them bearing lighted tapers highly perfumed, others incense, many banners, and not a few relics; the whole flanked by soldiers on horseback, in their newest and best attire, firing alternately to the right and left; and wherever a cross appeared, which was at the end of almost every street, the cavalcade halted, to chant the service appointed for the day. After the host came another division of soldiers, fol- lowed by all the other religious of the town. The procession passed through the middle of the streets, the sides of which were thronged with the motley multitude of every complexion, of every age, and of both sexes; but, notwith- standing their numbers, all ranged in regular order, and observing a profound silence, except when they joined in the general responses of the service. The decorations of the houses were bej^ond conception magnificent. Every habitation was hung either with tapestry or coloured cottons of various dyes, ornamented with feathers, festoons of flowers, and numerous and costly orna- ments, and utensils of gold, silver, and jewels, all the riches of the owners being displayed on this solemn occasion. Across the streets triumphal arches stretched at intervals, composed of boughs of trees artfully interwoven, loaded with fruit, and enlivened by a great variety of living birds, suspended in cages or tied with strings. Tables covered with every kind of eatables were set out at intervals; and close to the houses were likewise placed numbers of living animals, young lions, tigers, wolves, dogs, and monkeys, carefully secured so as to prevent the possibility of their hurting the passengers. From the windows were suspended baskets, containing every variety of seed and grain, with which they meant to sow the ground, and upon which they invoked the benediction of the passing deity. The ground was strewed with herbs and flowers, in many places so regularly disposed as to resemble the most delicate carpets. When the procession reached the cathedral, the air was rent by the multitude of voices, 30 THE PLAZA. and the edifice was entered under a heavy discharge of artillery from the fort, and from the ships in the harbour, and of musketry from the soldiers in the streets. Here high mass was celebrated, and the sacrament administered with the utmost solemnity and pomp ; and the cavalcade afterwards returned in the same order. The principal inhabitants and Indian caciques were invited to the governor's, where a plentiful banquet was prepared for them. The provisions exhibited in the streets were distributed by the priests among the inhabitants, who entertained all strangers that chose to partake of them. At night there was a general rejoicing, with fire- works, dancing, bull-feasts, and martial exercises. In the annexed view, the quinteros (farmers) are' seen coming to the market from the country, to which, on each side of the Cabildo, there are paved streets, extending about half a mile, the depth of the city in this central part. They carry their live animals, tied by the heels and thrown over their horses' backs, with just as little concern as the dead stock. A baker's man, a negro-slave, is introduced; and here it maybe observed, that slavery at Buenos Ayres is perfect freedom compared with that among other nations. On the treatment of slaves in this colony, Azara has given some particulars, that are highly honourable to the Spanish character. " Here," says he, " are none of those atrocious laws and punishments which are palliated " as necessary for keeping the slaves within the bounds of their duty. The con- " dition of these unfortunate creatures differs in no respect from that of the poorer " class of whites — or, if any thing, it is better. Many of them are overseers of " farms or herds of cattle, and have under them Spanish day-labourers. By far " the greater number die without ever having received a single lash. They are " treated with kindness; never harassed with labour; no task is set them, and '« they are not forsaken in their old age. The wives of their masters attend them THE PLAZA. 31 " when sick. They are not prevented from marrying even free women, in order " to procure the advantage of liberty for their children; they are as well, or even " better, clothed than the poorer whites, and supplied with plenty of wholesome " food. In short, those who would form correct ideas of the treatment of the ** slaves in this country, ought to have witnessed it, so totally different is it from " that which they experience in the other American colonies. Here, consequently, " masters will never have reason to complain of their slaves. I have seen many of " them refuse liberty when offered to them, and decline accepting it till the death " of their masters; and among others, not one of mine would accept it but by " compulsion." In proof of the indulgence shewn to this class of persons, the same writer states, as the result of an actual enumeration, that when he was in Paraguay, the number of the free negroes and mulattoes in the province, com- pared with that of the slaves, was as 174 to 100; and that the whites were to both as 5 to 1. Since the declaration of the independence of these states, the condition of the slaves has been still farther ameliorated. One of the first laws passed by the Independents provided — not for the abolition of slavery, for that would only have thrown upon their hands a large and helpless population — but for the personal security of the slave. It was enacted, that any slave dissatisfied with his master, might, if he could find a purchaser, insist on being sold to him, at a price fixed by the law, which is moderate. By this regulation a good slave is protected from ill treatment, and a bad one is readily known, as the owner will sell him under the rate fixed by the law, rather than keep him. It was farther decreed by the assembly called Constituyente, which met in January 1813, that every child born to a slave at Buenos Ayres, after that time should be free; and that all slaves, whether from the adjacent provinces or 32 THE PLAZA. any other part of the world, coming to the Rio de la Plata, should immediately receive their emancipation. The government, with a view to carry the spirit of this decree as far as possible, formed moreover a plan for manumitting a considerable number of slaves without depriving the masters of their property in them, and yet without obliging the public exchequer to pay down at once their full value. It stipulated that every proprietor of slaves should be compelled to transfer to government one out of every three slaves, whose price should be acknowledged as a debt of the state. It was agreed that the slaves so manu- mitted should be formed into battalions, having whites for officers; that they should be clothed and fed by the government, and be paid each half a Spanish dollar a week. The bakers of Buenos Ayres usually have several slaves; for as there are neither wind-mills nor water-mills in the country, excepting one of the former recently erected by an Englishman, they grind the flour they use by hand and with mules. They are, in general, the richest of the citizens ; for as the govern- ment derives a considerable revenue from a direct tax upon them of a certain number of dollars per month, they, in return, lay a heavy impost on the public by selling their bread at their own price. The baker's panniers are made of hide, as indeed are most of the baskets and packages in this country. He rides a mule, many of the animals of which species are here of large size and very handsome. The oranges which lie on the pavement are brought at the fall of the year in large quantities from Paraguay, but are not very good. Excellent lemons and some oranges are produced at Buenos Ayres in the gardens and pateos (courts) of the houses in and about the city, but they are not cultivated by the market- men for sale. 33 MILK-BOYS. The city of Buenos Ayres is regularly supplied with milk from the sur- rounding estantias, or farms, from one to three miles distant. It is brought on horseback in earthen or tin bottles, four and sometimes six of which are carried by each horse in hide pockets, attached to the saddle, and laced up with a piece of thong. The milk-boys may almost be said to be born on horseback, so early are they initiated into their occupation. Most of them are children under ten years of age, so small that they are obliged to climb up their horses by means of one long stirrup, which is used for no other purpose. They sit between the jars, and in that insecure position ride most furiously. When out of the city, they run races one against another; and after they have sold their milk, may often be seen in parties gambling, or chucking rials and quarter-dollars, as among us children do farthings. From this circumstance alone we should be induced to conclude, that this business must be exceedingly profitable. The negative assurance that the milk is not sold at a dearer rate than in London, nor is it of worse quality, will fully confirm the justice of this inference. The only wonder is, that in a country where the cows which supply the milk, where the horses which carry it to F 3 4 MILK-BOYS. market, and where the land which supports both, may be had for next to no- thing, the price of this article should bear any comparison with that paid for it in and near the British metropolis, where rent, taxes, the cost of live stock and labour, are so immensely disproportionate. It is also a fact which cannot but excite some astonishment, that, notwithstanding this prodigious difference of circumstances, it is almost as difficult to procure milk unadulterated at Buenos Ayres as in London; for when these urchins have disposed of part of their stock, they may often be seen in the river replenishing their bottles. These boys are generally the children of the small farmers, badly clothed and miserably dirty, but lively, and mischievous as monkeys, teaching their docile horses as many tricks as would render them worthy rivals of those animals. Butter, or at least any thing that deserves the name, is never made by the natives of Buenos Ayres. What they principally use for the purposes to which we apply it, is the fat of beef melted into dripping, and packed in bladders like iard : this they universally denominate manlcca — 'butter. Some Englishmen who have settled in the country, however, bring to market a small quantity of butter, for which they find a ready sale among the British and American residents, at the rate of six rials (about three shillings and six-pence) per pound ; but this supply also fails during the heat of summer. It is not uncommon to find in the milk sold by the boys small particles of butter produced by the motion of their gallop; and it has been gravely asserted, that the countrymen sometimes make it by tying a bladder full of cream to the horse's tail during a journey. There is reason to suspect that this is but a jeu d'esprit, very much, however, in character with the people at whose ex- pense it has been played off. y H % 35 THE SOUTH MATADERO, ONE OF THE PUBLIC BUTCHERIES OF BUENOS AYRES. At Buenos Ayres there are four Mataderos, or public butcheries, one at each end, and two on the quarters of the city. The view is taken from the south, and looks over the centre of the city, the south end being concealed by the olive grove on the right. The contiguous suburb is rather picturesque, the patcos (courts) of the houses being filled with orange and lemon-trees, which appear above the walls; and small gardens, filled with those trees, figs and olives, give the place an air of cultivation, which is miserably reversed upon turning the face towards the plain at the distance of a league or two. To a foreigner nothing can be more disgusting than the mode of supplying this place with beef. The animals are all killed in these Mataderos on the open ground, wet or dry, in summer covered with dust, and in winter with mud. Each Matadero has several corals, or pounds, belonging to the different butchers. Into these the beasts are driven from the country, and let out one by one, to be slaughtered, being lazoed as they come out, hamstrung, and then thrown on the ground, after which their throats are cut. In this manner the butchers slaughter as many oxen as they require, leaving the carcases on the ground till F 2 36 THE SOUTH MATADERO. all are killed, when they commence the operation of flaying. When this is finished, the carcases are cut up on the skin, which is the onl}'" protection from the bare ground, not into quarters as with us, but with an axe, into longitudinal sections across the ribs on each side of the back bone, thus dividing the carcase into three long mangled pieces, which are hung up in the carts, and carried, exposed to dust and filth, to the beef-market within the Plaza. All the offal is scattered over the ground, and as a high-road leads across each of the Mataderos, this would be an intolerable nuisance, especially in summer, were it not for the flocks of carrion-birds, which devour every thing, and pick all the bones that are left as clean as possible, in less than an hour after the departure of the carts. A few privileged hogs share with the carrion- birds what remains on the ground; and herds of swine are always kept close to the Mataderos, and fed entirely on the bullocks' heads and livers. Nothing can be more disgusting than the appearance of the corals where these beasts are kept; indeed so revolting is it, that all foreigners at this place become Jews, in so far at least as regards the abhorrence of swine's flesh. As the mode of lazoing is exhibited in the sketch, some description of it maybe expected. The word lazo signifies a noose; and it is literally a noose that is used on this occasion. The lazo is an inch rope made of platted strips of hide, kept supple with grease. To one extremity is attached a strong iron ring, through which the other end is passed, and fastened to the girth of the saddle. This rope, about twelve yards long, is held in coils in one hand, while the noose, lengthened to the convenience of the thrower, is in the other. On approaching the bullock, the noose is whirled round the head with a twist of the hand to prevent its entangling, and presently thrown, to its full extent, loose and round over the horns or any part that is desired, the thrower being so sure THE SOUTH MATADERO. 37 of his mark, that he will catch the animal by the horns, or any one of his legs, or his tail if he pleases. Great quickness of eye is required to draw the noose tight at the proper moment. In this manner the wild cattle in the plains of the Pampas, and also those belonging to the estantias (grazing-farms), are caught and killed. Here the horses are so trained, that when the beast is once fast, the horse will keep the lazo tight, and prevent his running, while the rider dismounts and kills him. At the farms three persons are often engaged in this business. One of them rides in among the cattle, and selecting a beast, throws his lazo over his horns, and gallops away till the rope is run out. The second is then ready with his noose,' and watching the opportunity of the beast kicking and struggling, he entangles one of the hind legs. Both the horses immediately draw the ropes tight in op- posite directions, and hold them so firmly that the beast is unable to move. A third man then comes up, hamstrings the hind leg that is not secured, upon which the animal immediately falls, and his throat is cut. Though to a stranger this may appear a tedious process, it is performed by experienced persons in four or five minutes. Another method of killing cattle in the public butcheries is this: A machine with a pulley and winch is erected at the extremity of the inclosure. The horns of a bullock are entangled in a rope attached to this machine, by which he is drawn forward till his head passes through an opening in the paling, where a man, provided with a strong dagger, stabs the beast between the horns in the pith of the neck, which occasions almost instantaneous death. By means of the lazo they also catch horses, as well those that run wild as the tame. It is very rarely indeed that they miss their aim, though going at full speed; and a man, however cautious, can no more avoid being taken by 38 THE SOUTH MATADERO. the lazo, than the animals which they hunt. It is used by the straggling rob- bers, who sometimes infest the roads at a distance from towns. In an open country, the only resource which a man has in such a case is, to throw himself on the ground, keeping his legs and arms as close to it as possible, that no room may be left for the rope to get underneath them. Among trees or underwood, the noose is less dangerous ; and by a rapid approach to the robber, before he has time to throw the lazo, his dexterity may also be foiled. This rope is so strong that, though not thicker than one's little finger, it will hold the wildest bull, when his efforts to escape would break a hempen rope of much larger dimensions. The carrion-bird, which renders such important services by devouring the large quantities of offal and animal relics that would otherwise taint the atmo- sphere, is a species of gull, with yellow bill and feet, blue back and shoulders, and the rest of the body beautifully white. These birds not only frequent the butcheries of Monte Video and Buenos Ayres, but also the public places of those cities, picking up such offal as they can find. They are likewise seen in immense numbers on the beach, when the waves have cast upon it the carcase of a whale or other fish. Sometimes too they will leave the coast, and proceed so far as one hundred leagues into the interior, attracted by carcases and heaps of flesh, which are left to spoil in the fields and savannahs. The iribu, or vulture, another carrion-bird, is very common in Paraguay, though it is not met with beyond the parallel of Buenos Ayres. It is known from tradition, that at the time of the conquest, and even long afterwards, this bird was not found at Monte Video, but that it followed vessels to that part of the country. It is asserted that it does not build a nest, but deposits two white eggs in holes in rocks or trees. M. de Azara informs us, that, for more than a THE SOUTH MATADERO. 39 year, he had opportunities of observing an iribu which was kept in a house: it was extremely tame, could distinguish its master, and would accompany him in excursions of eight or ten leagues, flying over his head, and sometimes set- tling on his carriage. It always came when called, and never joined others of its species to feed; neither would it eat but from the hand, nor touch any meat that was not cut into very small pieces. Another iribu, which was likewise tame, accompanied its master on journeys of more than a hundred leagues to Monte Video; but when it perceived that he was taking the road home, it would Jiasten before him, and thus announce to its mistress the return of her husband. This bird passes the greatest part of the day upon trees or palisades, watching for some person to throw out fragments of meat, or to kill a sheep. In general, several of the iribus assemble on the same tree; and as they are never molested, they live every where in peace and security. If any noise or object frightens them when they are assembled upon carrion, they all at once set up a cry of hit in a nasal tone, and it is the only one they ever utter. Whether single or in company, they never attack or harass any animal ; and when several of them fall upon a dead one of small size, each strives to tear off a piece as well as he can, without quarrelling with his companions. They begin by devouring the eyes, then the tongue, and such of the intestines as they can draw out. If the animal has a very strong hide, and a dog, or some other carnivorous beast, has not begun upon it, they leave it after they have plucked out the parts above- mentioned; but if they find any opening, they devour all the flesh to the very bones, which they leave covered with the skin alone. They sometimes follow travellers and vessels, and live upon the offal and filth that are thrown away. When wounded, they cast up all that they have swallowed. 40 THE SOUTH MATADERO. The head and neck of the iribu are bare and wrinkled; the whole of the plumage is black, excepting the quills of the first six wing-feathers, which are white: its total length is about two feet, including the tail, which measures from six to seven inches. There is another species of bird in this country, which is not less greedy of carrion than the iribu. The caracara will not only fall upon dead carcases, but if he perceives a vulture about to swallow a piece of flesh, will follow him till he has dropped his repast. Four or five of these birds will sometimes join in the pursuit of prey, and it is generally believed, that in this manner they will kill ostriches and fawns. In sheepfolds that are not guarded by a dog, a single caracara will devour the umbilical cord and tear out the intestines of the newly dropped lambs. N N 41 FISHERMEN. This view is taken about a mile to the north of the city, looking up the river. The quantity of fish consumed in Buenos Ayres is considerable, and the mode of catching it remarkable. Notwithstanding the extensive demand, not a boat is employed, the whole being caught by horses. Every evening in the winter, and early in the morning also in the summer, the fishermen repair to the river with a cart drawn by oxen, and two horses, with a net coiled on the back of one of them. There are generally four men in each party; one mounts each of the horses, and both set out together, walking their horses abreast into the river as far as they can, generally a quarter of a mile, and sometimes swim- ming them, when the men stand on their backs. When the}' are at the deepest, the horses are turned right and left, and separate, stretching the net to its fullest extent, from sixty to eighty yards; and then turning in shore, they draw it gradually after them to the beach. They usually take great quantities of fish; but there is no more than one sort that can be called good, and that only by comparison with the rest; for they are all very inferior to those taken lower down the river at Monte Video, where the water is clear, deep, and brackish, not as here, shoal and muddy. The principal species are, G 42 FISHERMEN. The Boga, of the carp kind, which is the most common: it usually weighs three or four pounds; is soft, bony, and ill-flavoured. The inhabitants lay in a large stock of it salted and dried. The Suruvi, cat-fish, resembles the pike, but has teeth in the gills only. The skin is smooth, of a white ash colour, spotted like a tiger with large round black spots. Fish of this kind, weighing from sixty to one hundred pounds, are some- times left on shore by high tides, but when taken in the nets, they are com- monly from ten to thirty pounds. They are called cat-fish from having long filaments, like whiskers, on each side of the snout. Their flavour is very. oily. The Dorado, gold-fish, resembles the salmon in shape, but is rather shorter in proportion to its bulk. It is a ravenous fish, with a mouth full of strong teeth, and weighs from twenty to thirty pounds. It makes a brilliant appearance-: the eyes, placed on each side of the head, are large, and surrounded with circles of shining gold; the back is enamelled with spots of a bluish green and silver; and the tail and fins are of a gold colour. The flesh is soft and bony. The Pejerey, or king-fish, in shape and colour resembles a smelt, but is some- times of three pounds weight, though generally of the size of mackarel, and weighing less than one. This is the best fish usually taken. The pejereyes abound in the Plata. In the month of July, when the Parana is at the highest, they ascend that river in vast shoals, for the purpose of spawning in the smaller streams that fall into it. The fishermen catch them with hooks in large num- bers, and sell them not only fresh but also dried. They must be dried without salt, which would instantly spoil them; and for the same reason great care must be taken, after they are hung up to dry, to prevent the access of any moisture. Grey mullet are frequently taken, but they are not very good. FISHERMEN. 43 The Mungrullu is the largest fish found in the Plata, some of them weighing a hundred weight. The Palometa is a small broad flat fish, with very sharp fins, with which it wounds those who incautiously lay hold of it. The wound is liable to fester, and to become so inflamed as to produce convulsions, which sometimes ter- minate in tetanus and death. It has also very sharp teeth, with which it can take out a piece in a moment: hence it is necessary for persons bathing to be on their guard against it. Azara mentions a monk who lost in this manner the distinctive marks of his sex. The Armado, a thick strong fish, with a short body, generally weighing from four to six pounds. Nature having denied it teeth for defence, seems to have compensated the deficiency, by bestowing weapons and armour of an extraor- dinar)'' kind. Thus, the whole fish is covered with hard thick bone, excepting a small part of the belly; and the back, sides, and fins are armed with strong sharp points, which are so fixed in sockets, that the fish can turn them in any direction. The Rayas, or rays, nearly three quarters of a 3^ard in length, have the mouth in the middle of the belly. From the root of the tail, on the back, grows a sharp-pointed bone, with two edges, rough like a saw with small teeth. The wounds inflicted by this bone on those who approach too near or tread upon it, are often attended with fatal consequences. Several other species are occasionally caught; one of these, a kind of bream, of large size, is good. It is said that in the clear deep waters of the upper rivers, are found great quantities of excellent fish, of totally different species from those taken below. G 2 44 FISHERMEN. The boga is always cut open down the back at the water-side, and packed in layers on rushes in the cart by the two assistants, while the horsemen prepare for a second trip. The other kinds of fish are carried into the city whole, and the larger sold piecemeal in the market-place from the carts, being hung up by the tail, and slices cut off the sides, as required by the purchasers, without scale or weights, the use of which would be thought much too troublesome. The oily suruvi is the greatest favourite. There is little doubt that much better fish might be procured by employing boats to go out into deeper water, or by sending them up the river towards Paraguay; but at Buenos Ayres, luxury of the table consists in profusion. So little indeed is delicacy regarded, that the cultivator takes no pains to rear the finer fruits and vegetables; because the common articles, produced by the bounty of nature without care or culture, are preferred at a low price, to the finer sorts at a higher rate. Azara makes mention of a singular kind of crab here, called cangrejo, which in colour, size, and flavour, resembles that of Europe. It is never found either on the banks or in the neighbourhood of any river or stream, but only in places distant from both, beyond the reach even of inundations. These animals make a circular and perpendicular hole in the ground, always in clay, but never in a sandy soil; this hole they scoop out of sufficient dimensions to hold a male and female, with a certain quantity of rain water, for they neither know nor seek any other. They leave these haunts at night, and often fall a pre}^ to various ani- mals, especially the aguara-guazu, or couguar of Buffon. It is extremely dangerous to gallop in the plains where these crabs have dug their holes, as the horses' legs sink into them to the depth of twelve inches, and the animals of course are liable to be thrown down. 4-t- Iftfi ■ MOT