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 https://archive.org/details/sanfranciscoasitOOpurd 
 

 
 
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The Call of the Golden Port. 
 
 Te that be trodden underfoot and scattered 
 As smoke wreaths in the rain , 
 
 All the white dreams that ye have spent and shattered 
 I will make whole again. 
 
 Te that be thralls of outworn generations 
 And seekers in the nighty 
 Tfltme, out of my proud place among the nations. 
 
 Behold I give you light. 
 
 * * * 
 
 Tear, all your toil shall be to you as pleasure. 
 
 And all your blood as wine. 
 
 The songs you sing shall have a dancing measure , 
 
 Such flowered air is mine. 
 
 And of your shadowy peril shall be sharers. 
 
 And of your undigged gold. 
 
 The ghostly galleons of the old seafarers 
 That found the Gate of old. 
 
 They, sailing through the sunset out of shadow. 
 
 Shall watch with you and wait. 
 
 And with you lift their songs of Eldorado 
 Beyojid the Golden Gate . 
 
 —Ethel Talbot. 
 
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SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 •AS IT WAS- 
 
 AS IT IS • AND HOW TO SEE IT 
 
 BY 
 
 HELEN THROOP PURDY 
 
 “I saw a multitude of 
 men coming toward us- 1 saw them 
 coming from every direction, 
 filing all the roads” 
 
 “St, Francis of Assisi 
 
 PAUL ELDER AND COMPANY 
 PUBLISHERS- SAN FRANCISCO 
 
To those who have so cordially granted permission 
 to quote from their writings, sincere thanks are of- 
 fered; also to the editors of Sunset Magazine and 
 Town Talk, and to the following publishers for 
 courtesies extended: Houghton Mifflin Company, 
 Doubleday, Page & Company, Whitaker & Ray, 
 Bobbs-Merrill Company, Life Publishing Company 
 
 Copyright, 1912 
 Paul Elder & Company 
 
Looking Out the Goiden Gate. 
 
 The 
 
 Introduction 
 
 Contents 
 
 Page 
 
 ix 
 
 From Early Days 
 
 
 3 
 
 Physical Characteristics 
 
 
 • 38 
 
 Ferry Building and Water Front 
 
 
 5 2 
 
 Street Car Systems 
 
 . 
 
 • 56 
 
 Golden Gate Park . 
 
 • 
 
 61 
 
 The Smaller Parks 
 
 • 
 
 81 
 
 Government Reservations . 
 
 • • • • • 
 
 9 1 
 
 The Old Mission 
 
 • O • • . • 
 
 98 
 
 Churches .... 
 
 ..... 
 
 107 
 
 Cemeteries .... 
 
 • • • • . . 
 
 . 1 19 
 
 Public Buildings 
 
 ..... 
 
 . 122 
 
 Banks ..... 
 
 
 1 27 
 
 Commercial Buildings 
 
 • • . . 
 
 129 
 
 Unique Shops 
 
 . • • 
 
 • 1 3 i 
 
 Chinatown .... 
 
 
 137 
 
 Hotels .... 
 
 • 0 . . 
 
 . 142 
 
 Restaurants .... 
 
 ..... 
 
 146 
 
 Theaters .... 
 
 ...... 
 
 • 1 53 
 
 Clubs, Societies, Lodges 
 
 # . . . . 
 
 159 
 
 Libraries .... 
 
 ...... 
 
 . 166 
 
 Museums and Art Galleries 
 
 . . . . . 
 
 171 
 
 Schools and Colleges 
 
 . . c . « . 
 
 176 
 
 Hospitals .... 
 
 . . . , . 
 
 178 
 
 Monuments .... 
 
 . . . 
 
 . 180 
 
 The Press ..... 
 
 • • • • c 
 
 182 
 
 How to See the City . 
 
 . . . . % 
 
 . 195 
 
 The Environs .... 
 
 . . . . . 
 
 1 99 
 
 Index ..... 
 
 . 
 
 . 217 
 
 [iii] 
 

 
 
 
The Golden Gate and Mile Rock Lighthou'se. 
 
 Illustrations 
 
 Academy of Sciences Building . 
 
 Page 
 
 i 7 1 
 
 Chinese Father and Baby 
 
 
 Page 
 
 I40 
 
 Admission Day Celebration . 
 
 16 
 
 Chinese Reading Bulletins . 
 
 , 
 
 1 86 
 
 Affiliated Colleges . 
 
 176 
 
 Chronicle Building 
 
 
 192 
 
 Alamedans at Play 
 
 203 
 
 City Hall and Sand Lots . 
 
 . 
 
 28 
 
 Alcatraz Island 
 
 9 1 
 
 City Hall, New . 
 
 
 5 1 
 
 Art Gallery, Piedmont . 
 
 175 
 
 City of Tents 
 
 . 
 
 H 
 
 
 
 Claremont Hotel 
 
 . 
 
 20c 
 
 Bank of California . 
 
 1 28 
 
 Cliff House (former) . 
 
 Facing 
 
 26 
 
 Bank Buildings at Market and 
 
 
 Cliff House (present) . 
 
 
 78 
 
 Post Streets . . Facing 
 
 128 
 
 Clipper Ship . 
 
 
 17 
 
 Beams in Roof of Mission Church 
 
 io 5 
 
 Cobweb Museum 
 
 Facing 
 
 44 
 
 BellaUnion, Verandah, El Dorado 
 
 2 1 
 
 Columbia Theater 
 
 *57 
 
 Boalt Law School, U. C. Campus 
 
 199 
 
 Commercial Building 
 
 
 37 
 
 Bohemian Club . 
 
 161 
 
 Commissioner’s Lodge . 
 
 
 75 
 
 Bohemian Club Grove 
 
 160 
 
 Conservatory . 
 
 
 65 
 
 Bread Line 
 
 3 2 
 
 Coppa’s Restaurant, decoration 
 
 1 46 
 
 Buffalo ..... 
 
 67 
 
 Custom House (first) 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 Custom House (present) 
 
 
 1 26 
 
 Cable Car (first) 
 
 56 
 
 Cypress Lawn Cemetery . 
 
 . 
 
 1 19 
 
 California Hall, U. C. Campus . 
 California Street and Fairmont 
 
 199 
 
 Docks 
 
 
 54 
 
 Hotel .... 
 
 142 
 
 Donahue Fountain . 
 
 
 181 
 
 California Theater, Old . 
 
 156 
 
 
 
 
 Call- Chronicle- Examiner Issue 
 
 194 
 
 Emperor Norton . 
 
 
 29 
 
 Calvary Presbyterian Church 
 
 1 10 
 
 Emporium Building 
 
 37 
 
 > 57 
 
 Cemetery of Old Mission 
 
 1 20 
 
 Euphemia . 
 
 
 40 
 
 Chain of Lakes . . Facing 
 
 68 
 
 
 
 
 Children’s Playground 
 
 62 
 
 Fairmont Hotel 
 
 
 H 5 
 
 Chinatown at Night 
 
 137 
 
 First Restaurant After Fire 
 
 . 
 
 148 
 
 Chinatown Bazaars . 
 
 138 
 
 Ferries, Looking North 
 
 
 1 22 
 
 Chinatown Street Scene . Facing 
 
 140 
 
 Ferry Building 
 
 Facing 
 
 1 22 
 
 Chinatown Street Scene 
 
 H 1 
 
 Father Serra Monument 
 
 Facing 
 
 104 
 
 Chinese Children 
 
 1 39 
 
 Ferry Building and Water 
 
 Front 
 
 5 2 
 
 M 
 
ILLUSTRATIONS 
 
 Ferry Building, From Embarc- 
 
 Page 
 
 adero .... 
 
 53 
 
 Fire of April, 1 906 . 
 
 30 
 
 First School House 
 
 7 
 
 Fisherman’s Wharf . 
 
 55 
 
 Flower Vendors . 
 
 185 
 
 Fort Gunnybags 
 
 19 
 
 Fort Mason 
 
 94 
 
 Fort Scott . . . 
 
 93 
 
 Fourth of July Celebration 
 
 6 
 
 Francis Scott Key Monument . 
 Funeral of James King of Wil- 
 
 7 i 
 
 liam 
 
 190 
 
 German Hospital 
 
 178 
 
 Gjoa, The 
 
 73 
 
 Golden Era Office . 
 
 1 8 3 
 
 Golden Gate, The 
 
 iii 
 
 Golden Gate and Lighthouse,The 
 
 V 
 
 Golden Gate and Marin Hills . 
 
 38 
 
 Golden Gate, Sunset . 
 
 39 
 
 Grace Pro-Cathedral 
 
 JI 3 
 
 Grant Avenue at Market Street 
 
 127 
 
 Greek Theatre, U. C. Campus . 
 
 204 
 
 Gump’s (S. &G.) Store 
 
 132 
 
 Hall of Justice 
 
 123 
 
 Hearst Building . 
 
 191 
 
 Hindoo Temple 
 
 1 1 8 
 
 Hopkins Art Institute . 
 
 J 74 
 
 Japanese Tea Garden . Facing 
 
 62 
 
 Japanese Tea Garden . 
 
 63 
 
 Jefferson Square . . Facing 
 
 Jefferson Square and Lutheran 
 
 86 
 
 Church .... 
 
 107 
 
 Jenny Lind Theater 
 
 155 
 
 Jewish Cemetery 
 
 1 21 
 
 Joaquin Miller’s House 
 
 184 
 
 Lake Alvord .... 
 
 76 
 
 Lake Merced 
 
 4 
 
 Lake Merritt, Oakland 
 
 200 
 
 Land’s End 
 
 60 
 
 Laurel Room of Fairmont 
 
 152 
 
 Page 
 
 Lick House . . . 25 
 
 Lick Statuary , . . *87 
 
 Live Oaks, U. C. Campus . 208 
 
 Lone Mountain . . .180 
 
 Long Wharf . . . 33 
 
 Lotta’s Fountain . . .182 
 
 Luna’s Restaurant . . 151 
 
 Map of Bay Region and Penin- 
 sula . . . . 213 
 
 Map of San Francisco . 214,215 
 Market and Post Streets . 187 
 
 Market Street, 1865 . . 50 
 
 Market Street . . . 58 
 
 Marshall Square . . *87 
 
 Marsh (George T.) Store . 134 
 
 Mechanics’-Mercantile Library . 167 
 
 Mechanics’ Pavilion (first) . 169 
 
 Meiggs’ Wharf . . .42 
 
 Meiji, The . . . 135 
 
 Mercantile Library . . .168 
 
 Merchants’ Exchange Building 165 
 Mills College Campanile . .202 
 
 Mint, The . . .124 
 
 Mission Cemetery . . .120 
 
 Mission, Centennial . . 27 
 
 Mission High School . . 177 
 
 Mission in the Thirties . 99 
 
 Mission in the Thirties . .100 
 
 Mission in 1 849 . . . 10 1 
 
 Mission in 1 856 . . .102 
 
 Mission in 1 865 ... 98 
 
 Mission in the Seventies . .106 
 
 Mission and Brick Church . 104 
 
 Mission, Interior of Church . 103 
 Mission To-day . . Facing 98 
 
 Montgomery Street, Looking 
 
 Down . . . .188 
 
 Mount Tamalpais . . 207 
 
 Museum, Park . 1 72, 173, 195 
 
 Newspaper Square . 182, 193 
 
 Niantic, The . . • 4 1 
 
 Nob Hill Mansion . . 23 
 
 Nob Hill Mansions . . 174 
 
ILLUSTRATIONS 
 
 Page 
 
 Oakland Home . . .201 
 
 Occidental Hotel . . .22 
 
 Ocean Beach . v, ix, 74, 197 
 Old Flume . . . . 20 
 
 Old Map of San Francisco Facing 20 
 Old St. Mary’s Church . Facing 1 10 
 Old St. Mary’s Church, After the 
 Fire . . . . 3 2 
 
 Olympic Club Building 161, 162 
 Olympic Club at the Beach . 79 
 
 Orpheum Theater . . 158 
 
 Residence of Mark Hopkins . 174 
 
 Residence Park . . .198 
 
 Roofs of Chinatown . Facing 116 
 Ruins After Fire . . .33 
 
 Russ’ Garden . . .18 
 
 Russian Hill ... 46 
 
 Russian Hill and Bay . .166 
 
 Safety Station 
 
 • 57,58 
 
 San Carlos Entering Bay . Frontispiece 
 
 Pacific Building 
 Pacific-Union Club 
 
 37 
 
 59 
 
 Sand Dunes 
 
 San Francisco, I 846 
 
 San Francisco, 1849 
 
 Facing 3 8 
 Facing 1 4 
 
 3 
 
 . 1 2 
 
 Palace Hotel (former) 
 
 24 
 
 San Francisco Bay Facing 56, 
 
 *74 
 
 Palace Hotel, Palm Court Facing 
 
 146 
 
 San Francisco From Bay . 
 
 Facing 
 
 1 34 
 
 Palace Hotel (present) 
 
 H 3 
 
 San Francisco Seals 
 
 . 
 
 15 
 
 Palace Hotel Site in 1856 
 
 49 
 
 St. Francis Church 
 
 
 1 15 
 
 Parker House, 1 849 
 
 
 St. Francis Hotel 
 
 
 H 4 
 
 Paul Elder & Company’s Present 
 
 
 St. Francis Hotel, Tapestry 
 
 
 
 Store .... 
 
 136 
 
 Room 
 
 Facing 
 
 160 
 
 Paul Elder & Company’s Tem- 
 
 
 St. Mary’s Cathedral . 
 
 . 
 
 1 16 
 
 porary Store . 
 
 3 6 
 
 Scottish Rite Temple 
 
 
 163 
 
 Phelan Building 
 
 130 
 
 Second-Street Cut 
 
 
 47 
 
 Piedmont Art Gallery . 
 
 1 7 5 
 
 Sight-Seeing Car 
 
 
 59 
 
 Piedmont Park 
 
 206 
 
 Sky-Line of Tall Buildings 
 
 
 129 
 
 Pig’n’ Whistle . 
 
 150 
 
 Southern Pacific Hospital . 
 
 
 179 
 
 Pioneer Park 
 
 81 
 
 South Park in the Fifties 
 
 
 89 
 
 Point Bonita 
 
 1 3 1 
 
 Spreckels Building . 
 
 
 189 
 
 Portico— A. N. To wne’s House Facing 50 
 
 Spreckels Lake 
 
 
 70 
 
 Portico— A . N . T 0 wne’s House, in 
 
 
 Stadium 
 
 
 61 
 
 the Park .... 
 
 69 
 
 Stanford University Quadrangle 
 
 209 
 
 Portola-Louvre Restaurant 
 
 H 9 
 
 Stevenson Monument 
 
 Facing 
 
 188 
 
 Portsmouth Square After Fire 
 
 84 
 
 Stow Lake 
 
 
 68 
 
 Portsmouth Square in 1852 . 
 
 8 
 
 Street Kitchens 
 
 
 3 1 
 
 Portsmouth Square in 1854 82 
 
 > 83 
 
 Sutro Baths 
 
 
 80 
 
 Portsmouth Square (present) . 
 
 83 
 
 Sutro Gardens 
 
 
 26 
 
 Postoffice .... 
 
 1 2 5 
 
 Sutro Heights 
 
 
 77 
 
 Prayer Book Cross . Facing 
 
 74 
 
 Sutter’s Mill Race . 
 
 
 10 
 
 Presidio, The . 92, 95, Facing 92 
 
 Swedenborgian Church 
 
 
 109 
 
 Presidio Terrace 
 
 198 
 
 Synagogue Emanu-El 
 
 
 108 
 
 
 
 Synagogue Sherith Israel 
 
 
 "7 
 
 Refugee Tents 
 
 88 
 
 
 
 
 Residence of Charles Crocker 
 
 2 3 
 
 Tait-Zinkand Restaurant . 
 
 
 147 
 
 Residence of J. D. Spreckels . 
 
 196 
 
 Tea Garden (Japanese) 63, Facing 62 
 
ILLUSTRATIONS 
 
 Page 
 
 Tea Garden, City of Paris . 34 
 
 Telegraph Hill . . 45, 8 1 
 
 Telegraph Hill From the North 90 
 Telegraph Hill Signal Station . 44 
 
 Temple of Music . . 64 
 
 Tennis Courts . . . 72 
 
 The Plan of the Panama-Pacific 
 
 International Exposition . 216 
 
 Tree Ferns ... 66 
 
 Trinity Episcopal Church . 114 
 
 Union Square, 1885 . . 85 
 
 Union Square (present) . .86 
 
 Unitarian Church (former) . 1 1 1 
 
 Unitarian Church (present) . 1 1 2 
 
 Page 
 
 University Club . . 164 
 
 University of California Library 170 
 
 Van Ness Avenue . . 35 
 
 Vickery, Atkins & Torrey . 133 
 
 Washerwoman’s Lagoon 
 Willows, The 
 Windmill 
 
 Woodward’s Gardens 
 
 : 153 
 Facing 8 O 
 
 • 1 54 
 
 Yerba Buena Cove, 1837 Facing 8 
 Yerba Buena Cove, 1847 . 9 
 
 Yerba Buena, Winter of 1849-50 1 1 
 
 Yerba Buena Island, Lighthouse 96 
 Yerba Buena Island, Naval School 97 
 
Looking Down the Ocean Boulevard. 
 
 Introduction 
 
 M any San Franciscans , like residents of other cities , are 
 so absorbed in their own daily life that they see and 
 know only the streets and buildings between their offices 
 and homes . To the residents of the Sunset Bistrill , the 
 Latin quarter may be an unknown region ; to those who 
 live in the Mission , Telegraph Hill may be simply a rise of ground 
 seen down the vista of Kearny street ; to those who daily see that 
 incomparable panorama of the Bay and the Marin County hills from 
 their homes on Pacific Heights , the old Mission church may be only a 
 heap of ruins , and situated down the peninsula , 
 
 In greater numbers each year come visitors from the East , Souths 
 North and abroad , Stopping for a short time at a hotel , they leave 
 for their homes with memories mainly of Market street and the Ferry 
 building , There is a world to see besides , but no one tells them where 
 and how to find places of interest, San Francisco guide books have 
 been print ed, mainly catalogues and tabulations. This remarkable city 
 merits something more comprehensive ; and in the wish to present an 
 outline of a story of absorbing interest , to record some things already 
 almost forgotten and to suggest places of interest to the visitor , this 
 book is offered. It does not pretend to be exhaustive , and touches upon 
 only the most prominent of the city s char all eristics, 
 
 San Francisco , as it was , reproduced visually its peculiar history. 
 It had an individuality as pronounced as Boston or Philadelphia , and 
 more vivid than New Fork. Therefore , its history is given in briefs 
 for one cannot understand the city without knowing its unmatched 
 story ; and , in addition , bits of history and biography have been intro- 
 duced wherever they seem illuminative and naturally to belong. For 
 the historic part, Theodore HittelT s monumental history of Calif or- 
 
 [ix] 
 
IntroduSUon 
 
 nia , John F, Hitt ell' s excellent history of San Francisco , and Soule' s 
 Annals of San Francisco have been searched , and these have been 
 supplemented by many diaries and memories of the men of early days , 
 Neither can one appreciate the city, as it is , without realizing 
 the significance of the epochal April 18 , 1906, It may seem that too 
 many references are made to the great fire and earthquake. Let us 
 not forget that in the vast district covered by the fire , every place- 
 wit hout any exception— has been new-born since that time ; and there- 
 fore , in speaking of any place of interest , reference must inevitably be 
 made to that tremendous catastrophe, Fo-day , the “ down-town " dis- 
 trict is a congeries of magnificent buildings and stores ; but the sky line 
 is ragged , and the presence of large , unbuilt spaces can be explained 
 only by the fire , recent from a standpoint of city building. Hence , the 
 city as it is, stands as a wonderful monument to men s dauntless cour- 
 age, energy and achievement, Fhe record of the past six years is the 
 prophecy of the future. 
 
 To San Franciscans who love their city, and they are legion, this 
 book is sincerely dedicated, 
 
 Berkeley, California , August , 1912, 
 
SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 AS IT WAS • AS IT IS • AND HOW 
 TO SEE IT 
 
San Francisco and Cove in 1849. 
 
 Chapter One . From Early Days 
 
 T he name San Francisco was applied to a bay on the 
 western coast of America long years before the dis- 
 covery of what we now know as San Francisco bay, 
 or the establishment of any settlement upon its shores. 
 What bay first bore the name is not certainly known, 
 and even the origin of the name is veiled in obscurity. The city 
 was named from the bay, it being assumed that the latter was the 
 namesake of St. Francis of Assisi, but it is possible that the Span- 
 iards, who knew of the existence of a bay near latitude thirty-eight 
 degrees soon after the voyage of Sir F rancis Drake in 1 5 79, gained 
 their knowledge from the Chronicle of his voyage, and applied 
 his name-Sir Francis changed to St. Francis-to the bay. This 
 is a surmise of John Hittell in his History of San Francisco . Theo- 
 dore Hittell,in his History of Calif 'ornia, say s that the first mention 
 of the name was in connection with the loss of the ship San Au- 
 gustin in 1595. In 1734, Cabrera Bueno, a Philippine pilot, pub- 
 lished in Manila a book on navigation, in which he speaks of this 
 bay of San Francisco on the Californian coast as if it were well 
 known; but from his description, it is quite evident that it is only 
 the outer bay that was known, with Point Reyes as the northern 
 boundary. When Father Junipero Serra, the Franciscan friar, 
 set out from La Paz to establish missions in Alta California, Gal- 
 vez, the Visitador General, in his instructions respecting the names 
 these missions were to bear, did not include St. Francis. Father 
 Serra, grieved at the omission of the founder of his Order, pro- 
 tested: “Is not our own dear Father St. Francis to have a mis- 
 sion assigned to him?” Galvez replied, “Let him show us his 
 port and he shall have one there.” A land expedition set out in 
 
 [3] 
 
SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 1769 from San Diego, where 
 the first of the Upper Cali- 
 fornia missions was estab- 
 lished, to seek the bay of 
 Monterey, which was known 
 as a favorable harbor, and to 
 establish the second mission 
 there. When the company 
 passed by the bay of Monte- 
 rey without recognizingit and 
 pushing northward, discovered the land-locked bay which now 
 bears the name of San Francisco, they were in all probability the 
 first white men to look upon its waters. On the return of the 
 expedition to San Diego the important discovery was reported 
 to Serra. He recalled his former conversation with Galvez, and 
 believed that St. Francis had interposed to lead the little band 
 to the port where he would have his mission. 
 
 If, as is barely possible, the outer bay was named in honor 
 of Sir Francis Drake, there is no doubt that it was the name of 
 the Saint of Assisi which was bestowed upon the inner one. When 
 the news of the discovery reached Galvez, he, too, believed that 
 the expedition had been led by the Saint to this spot; but it was 
 not until six years later that the Mission was established. In 1772 
 a land expedition explored the eastern shore of the bay. Later, 
 in 1774, another came up the western side, passing Lake Merced 
 (named by a later expedition Nuestra Senora de la Merced, 
 Our Lady of Mercy) and arrived at Point Lobos December 4, 
 where they eredted a cross on the summit of the hill. Contin- 
 uous and heavy rains drove them back to Monterey. 
 
 In 1775 Juan de Ayala, as commander of the San Carlos, 
 was sent to make a survey of the bay. He took with him a 
 launch, which, on reaching the entrance, he sent in to explore 
 the straits, now known as the Golden Gate. Finding that it pro- 
 ceeded without difficulty he followed, August 5, 1775, in the San 
 Carlos, the first ship to enter what is now known as San Francisco 
 bay. He sailed around the inner shores and obtained wood and 
 water for the ship from an island which he named Nuestra Senora 
 de los Angeles, shortened now to Angel Island. 
 
 [4] 
 
FROM EARLY DAYS 
 
 In March, 177 6, another expedition selected the sites for 
 the Presidio apd Mission, and in September and October of that 
 year both were established. 
 
 San Francisco had a third beginning, the later settlement of 
 Yerba Buena which finally, in its expansion, embraced the other 
 two. Like the others, it was of Spanish birth, but it was soon 
 adopted by American traders and in a decade was in reality an 
 American town. 
 
 For many years the Spanish settlers lived at the Presidio. 
 Later, some of them made homes at the Mission, though at first 
 only the friars and their Indian converts were there. From the 
 early part of the nineteenth century the bay was visited occasion- 
 ally by foreign ships, and from 1820 on, there was considerable 
 traffic in hides with the missions and great ranches, ships from 
 the New England coast being frequent visitors. It was found 
 that the best anchorage was in a small cove called Yerba Buena, 
 from the mint-like vine or “good herb” which grew abundantly 
 around the shores. This cove lay between what was known as 
 Clark’s Point, near the present corner of Broadway and Battery 
 streets, and Rincon Point to the south, curving in to Montgom- 
 ery street between Washington and Jackson streets. As customs 
 duties were collected on goods brought into California, it seemed 
 advisable that the public officials should be near the anchorage 
 instead of several miles away, at the Presidio or theMission. So in 
 May, 1 835, Figueroa, then Governor of California under Mexico, 
 planned a settlement on the cove. He appointed as Harbor Mas- 
 ter, or Captain of the Port, William A. Richardson, a naturalized 
 Englishman who had lived on the Sausalito ranch since 1822. 
 Richardson at once ereCted a shelter for his family near the 
 middle of what is now Dupont street, between Clay and Wash- 
 ington streets. It was little 
 more than a tent, consisting 
 ’s canvas on redwood 
 posts. Richardson went into 
 the business of collecting the 
 hides and tallow from the mis- 
 sions and ranches. In 1836 
 Jacob P. Leese, having asso- 
 
 [5] 
 
 First Custom House. An Adobe Building in the Plaza. 
 
SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 dated with himself Nathan 
 Spear and William Hinckley, 
 two merchants of Monterey, 
 came to the cove to establish 
 a general store. He brought 
 with him lumber for a house 
 and, being granted a hundred 
 vara lot adjoining Richard- 
 son on the south, hastened 
 
 Leese’s House and First Fourth of July Celebration. the building of his home; the 
 
 first genuine frame structure of the future city. It was finished 
 the morning of July 4 and Independence Day was celebrated by 
 a house-warming. Three vessels in the harbor (two American 
 and one Mexican) contributed bunting for decoration, and the 
 Mexican and American flags floated amicably above the new 
 home. Guests, sixty in number, came from the Presidio, the 
 Mission, from Sonoma and from all the ranches around. Feast- 
 ing, toasts, music, dancing and other amusements filled two days 
 and the intervening night. 
 
 Although Figueroa died before his project of a settlement 
 could be carried out, he is entitled to be called the founder of 
 Yerba Buena. Shortly after Figueroa’s death Francisco de Haro, 
 Alcalde of the Presidio of San Francisco, caused a street to be 
 laid out called La Calle de la Fundacion , or Foundation street. 
 It ran from a point near the present corner of Kearny and Pine 
 streets northwest toward North Beach. The district bounded 
 by California, Pacific, Montgomery and Dupont streets was a 
 grassy slope toward the cove; on the south and west were steep, 
 sandy hills covered with bushes and scrub oak. No wagon had 
 ever visited the cove and there were only horse trails through 
 the thickets. 
 
 The first survey was made in 1839 by Jean Vioget, lots 
 previously having been granted at random, though they were 
 afterward made to conform with Vioget’s map, which included 
 only the land bounded now by Montgomery, Powell, California 
 and Broadway streets. No name was given to any street, and the 
 two main streets were Kearny from Sacramento to Pacific and 
 Dupont from Clay to Pacific. 
 
 [ 6 ] 
 
FROM EARLY DAYS 
 
 In 1838 a wagon road was opened to the Mission by cut- 
 ting out the bushes and scrub oaks in a line eight feet wide; but, 
 as there were no vehicles except the Mexican carretas (ox-carts 
 with solid wheels cut from logs), the main benefit was to enable 
 horsemen to pass with greater ease. In 1840 there were four 
 Americans, four Englishmen and six other Europeans at Yerba 
 Buena; in 1841 about thirty-one families. This year the Rus- 
 sian establishment at Fort Ross was purchased by General Sut- 
 ter, and the Russian Fur Company left the country. At the same 
 time the Hudson’s Bay Company, having undertaken to supply 
 Sitka with produ&s from California, established a permanent 
 agency in Yerba Buena, in charge of Mr. Ray, the son-in-law 
 of Dr. McLaughlin, the Fadlor of the Hudson’s Bay Company, 
 at Vancouver, Washington. 
 
 The early Californians were fond of recreation and any espe- 
 cial event was an excuse for a celebration. From the time of Jacob 
 Leese’s first Fourth of July festivities, the day was usually marked 
 by rejoicing, all nationalities represented at the cove joining with 
 the Americans. In 1840 a celebration took place in which Cali- 
 fornians, English, French, Irish and Germans entered into the 
 festivities with all the ardor of the Americans. During the day 
 a grand picnic was held on Rincon Hill, followed in the evening 
 by a ball at Captain Richardson’s house. Late in the evening a 
 fine dinner was served and dancing continued until daylight. To 
 enable prominent families around the bay to attend, boats were 
 sent to different points a day or two before to bring them in, and 
 they were returned in the same way after the event. Wedding 
 celebrations lasted for several days-dancing every night until far 
 into the morning hours, a few hours’ sleep, picnics and bull- 
 fighting in the afternoon. This programme was sometimes con- 
 tinued for a week. Picnics 
 were popular. In the spring 
 the hills toward the ocean 
 were covered with wild straw- 
 berries. Parties were formed 
 for camping there to enjoy 
 the fruit, and the berries 
 were made the occasion of 
 
SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 a great merienda , sometimes concluding with a ball on the return 
 to the settlement. 
 
 In 1844 the business portion of the settlement consisted 
 of three general stores, four groceries, one restaurant, two saloons, 
 three carpenter shops and one blacksmith shop. 
 
 All navigators who entered the bay, from Ayala down, testi- 
 fied that the harbor was unsurpassed in size and natural advan- 
 tages. Kotzebue, the Russian, who visited the bay in 1824, said: 
 “This water, over which scarcely a solitary boat is seen to glide, 
 will refled: the flags of all nations;” and Dana prophesied that “if 
 ever California becomes a prosperous country, this bay will be the 
 center of its prosperity.” In 1845 G eor ge Bancroft, then Secre- 
 tary of the United States Navy, wrote to Commodore Sloat, 
 commanding the American squadron in the Pacific: “If you should 
 ascertain, with certainty, that Mexico has declared war against 
 the United States, you will at once possess yourself of the port 
 of San Francisco.” The bay was recognized as a most important 
 point. But there was not much growth in the little settlement upon 
 its shores until after July, 1846, when California became the ter- 
 ritory of the United States, as an outcome of the declaration of 
 war with Mexico. On the ninth of July, by order of Commodore 
 Sloat, from Monterey, the American flag was raised in the Plaza 
 (afterward called Portsmouth Square) by Captain Montgomery 
 of the Portsmouth, then lying in the harbor, and proclamation 
 was made that “henceforth California will be a portion of the 
 United States.” There had been more or less fighting in the 
 State, in the struggles among the different Mexican fadions and 
 in the opposition of the Californians to the prospedive American 
 occupation. It had not disturbed Yerba Buena, but in general 
 the Californians there and in the vicinity were glad to have their 
 
 country come under Ameri- 
 can rule, feeling that they 
 had thus a better assurance of 
 tranquillity. Many leading 
 families were conneded by 
 marriage with Americans and 
 had long felt that they were 
 separated from the Mexicans. 
 
 [ 8 ] 
 
 Portsmouth Square in 1852. 
 
The Cove in 1837. 
 Leese’s and Richardson’s 
 Houses on the Hill- 
 side. Trading 
 Schooner of Leese at the 
 
A Dream of the Golden Gate. 
 
 When the ships came first through the sunset Golden 
 Gate of the West to the opal bay. 
 
 Bosomed deep in the tranquil olden 
 
 Calm of a long-past age it lay; 
 
 Few were the ware's, of the trading crew, 
 
 The cares and wants of the settlers few; 
 
 Few were the hopes stout hearts embolden 
 
 To risk the voyage —few cared to stay. 
 
 When the ships come now through the mist-wreathed Golden 
 Gate of the West to the land-locked bay. 
 
 Rich are the freights they engulf and fold in 
 
 Their deep, dark hulls as they anchor weigh; 
 Fruits of earth? s bosom— corn and wine , 
 
 Gold from the depths of the sunless mine. 
 
 Choicest of things that are bought and sold in 
 
 The marts of the nation— these are they. 
 
 When the ships shall come through the fort-flanked Golden 
 Gate of the West to the wharf-lined bay. 
 
 And the great World 1 s Fair of the age be holden 
 Along its shores in august display. 
 
 Then the new City of the Sea 
 In her high zenith crowned shall be 
 And the fame of the Queen of the West extolled in 
 The songs of the bards of a later day. 
 
 —Robert Duncan Milne. 
 
 Published in the Nineties. 
 
FROM EARLY DAYS 
 
 One of the first ac 5 ts of Captain Montgomery was to appoint 
 one of the lieutenants of the Portsmouth, Washington A. Bart- 
 lett, as Alcalde of Yerba Buena, and the little town of two score 
 houses under American rule soon outstripped the village of 
 Dolores, which formerly held supremacy. 
 
 Three weeks after the proclamation of Captain Montgom- 
 ery, there was a large accession to the population. A ship, the 
 Brooklyn, arrived from New York, with two hundred and thirty- 
 eight immigrants, all but a dozen of them Mormons. Their 
 leader was Samuel Brannan, publisher of a Mormon paper in 
 New York, who became in January, 1847, the publisher of the 
 California Star , San Francisco’s first newspaper. A few months 
 later "The Californian , established by Walter Colton and Robert 
 Semple in Monterey and the first newspaper of California, was 
 removed to Yerba Buena. 
 
 The Mormons were mostly skilled mechanics and farmers 
 and, Feing industrious, soon filled a useful place in the little 
 community. They did not attempt to make converts and their 
 descendants, if not they themselves, in general abandoned their 
 peculiar faith. 
 
 By the didtum of the Alcalde, in 1847 the name San Fran- 
 cisco was substituted for Yerba Buena, the objections to the latter 
 name being that it was difficult of spelling and pronunciation and 
 did not properly represent the great bay which was well known 
 on the Atlantic coast, and of which Yerba Buena hoped and 
 expected to become the chief port. 
 
 Edwin Bryant was the second Alcalde. He was succeeded 
 by George Hyde. About this time the boundaries of the town 
 were extended south and west. A census taken in 1847 reports 
 the population of San Francisco, exclusive of officers and soldiers, 
 as numbering four hundred 
 and fifty-nine. This excludes 
 also the village of Dolores, 
 which was not then a part of 
 San Francisco. Of this pop- 
 ulation not more than halt 
 were natives of the United 
 States. There were about 
 
 [9] 
 
 Yerba Buena Cove and Part of Settlement in 1847. 
 
SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 forty each of Spanish-Califor- 
 nians, Indians and Kanakas. 
 In the seventeen months 
 which ended in August, 1 847, 
 one hundred and fifty-seven 
 houses had been built; a quar- 
 ter of them adobe, the rest 
 board shanties. 
 
 Many lots having been 
 purchased and some build- 
 ings put up, stagnation ensued for a time, and it was agreed that 
 something must be done to stimulate immigration. Therefore, a 
 special number of the California Star , for circulation in the East, 
 was published in March, 1848. A six-column article by Doctor 
 V. V. J. Fourgeaud set forth the attractions of San Francisco in 
 somewhat exaggerated terms but giving considerable correct in- 
 formation. A courier with two thousand copies was dispatched 
 overland for Independence, Mo., which place it was expected he 
 would reach in sixty days. From there the papers were to be 
 distributed throughout the East. Another edition, containing 
 more information and offering more attractions for immigrants, 
 was to be sent in the following June, but it was unnecessary. 
 Before that time the rumor of gold (which had been mentioned 
 incidentally in the issue of March) had become a confirmed fact, 
 the news of which it needed no special courier to disseminate. 
 
 The story of the discovery of gold by James Marshall, an 
 American employed by Sutter in building a saw-mill, is too well 
 known to repeat in detail. The discovery was made in January, 
 1848. Neither Marshall nor any of his companions knew how 
 to make accurate tests, and it was not until specimens were sent 
 to San Francisco and pronounced to be gold by an old miner 
 there that they were sure of their good fortune. Eight years be- 
 fore, gold had been found in California, in Los Angeles county, 
 by some Mexicans passing through from Sonora. A good deal 
 from that source found its way into Los Angeles. Henry Mel- 
 ius, trading along the coast, collected about five thousand dol- 
 lars’ worth, which he transmitted to Boston in the Alert. Later 
 he made other remittances, and some found its way to Yerba 
 
 [i°] 
 
FROM EARLY DAYS 
 
 Buena. Probably in 1840 and 1841 a hundred thousand dollars’ 
 worth was taken from those diggings. The padres knew of gold 
 in the Sacramento valley long before its discovery by Marshall. 
 Indians from that vicinity sometimes brought them bits of the 
 shining metal; but, fearful of its effed upon the Indians if they 
 knew its value, the padres cautioned them to secrecy. They 
 made no use themselves of the knowledge, and only revealed the 
 important fad once or twice in conversation. 
 
 Adivities in San Francisco ceased as soon as it was certainly 
 known that there was gold in New Helvetia, as Captain Sutter’s 
 settlement was called. Every boat coming down brought more 
 gold; every returning boat took more of the population, until 
 the town was almost deserted. T he Californian and the Star sus- 
 pended publication and editors and compositors rushed to the 
 mines with the rest. The price of lots in San Francisco fell, but 
 business soon revived, for it was realized that with the great rush 
 to the mines which was inevitably coming there would be an 
 enlarged demand for all sorts of supplies. In May the miners 
 were all from the vicinity of the bay, in June they came from 
 further south; in July from Los Angeles, and by fall they were 
 coming from Oregon, the Hawaiian Islands, from Mexico and 
 Peru. The excitement spread to the East. From Maine to Texas 
 it occupied the thoughts of all. In Seeking the Golden Fleece , Dr. 
 Stillman says: “At the close of the month of January, 1849, 
 ninety vessels had sailed from the various eastern ports, convey- 
 ing nearly eight thousand men, and seventy more ships were up 
 for passage. * * * Editors, who in the columns of their 
 
 papers had discouraged the movement and exhorted young men 
 to be satisfied with the slow gains of home industry, sold out 
 and anticipated the quickest of us at the gold mines by at least 
 a month. Ministers of the 
 gospel raised their voices 
 against the dangers of riches 
 and, like Cassandra, prophe- 
 sied unutterable woes upon 
 the country, and started in 
 the first ship as missionaries 
 to San Francisco.” 
 
 ["] 
 
 Yerba Buena Cove. Winter of 1849-’ 50. 
 
San Francisco and Bay in 1851. 
 
 SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 In February, 1 849, the first 
 steamer came through the 
 Golden Gate, the first boat 
 of the Pacific Mail Company. 
 War vessels lying in the bay 
 greeted the newcomer with a 
 display of bunting, salutes, 
 music by the band and cheers 
 by the crews. People flocked 
 to Telegraph Hill, and there 
 was great rejoicing that San Francisco was conne&ed by steam 
 with the East. The steamer brought word that two more boats 
 belonging to the same company were on their way around the 
 H orn, and that there would be monthly communication with 
 the East by way of the Isthmus. 
 
 The beginning of 1849 saw San Francisco with a population 
 of two thousand. By the end of the year there were at least six 
 times as many. Though the rush to the mines continued, there 
 were many who recognized that fortunes were to be made in 
 trade and professions, and stayed in San Francisco to reap their 
 dollars there. Men who had lived frugally on a few dollars a 
 month now came from the mines with hundreds to spend, and 
 demanding the best. Men came without outfits, to go to the 
 mines; doctors were needed, lawyers were needed, ministers and 
 teachers. They all came, and the wants of all must be supplied. 
 The prices of everything were exorbitantly high. Washing (Bay- 
 ard Taylor tells us in El Dorado ) was eight dollars a dozen, and 
 much of it was sent to China and the Sandwich Islands, because 
 it could be done cheaper than in San Francisco. One returning 
 vessel from Canton brought back two hundred and fifty dozen, 
 and one from the Sandwich Islands, a hundred and fifty dozen. 
 Lumber shipped from New York, which had cost a thousand dol- 
 lars, brought fourteen thousand in San Francisco. A man landing 
 from a ship with old New York newspapers in his pockets could 
 sell them for a dollar apiece. StephenJ. Field bought in NewYork 
 a dozen chamois skins, in which to wrap the stationery he was 
 bringing, for which he paid a dollar apiece. On his arrival, sixteen 
 dollars was eagerly paid for each. The skins were to be made 
 
 [12] 
 
■ ■’ 
 
 FROM EARLY DAYS 
 
 into bags for holding gold dust. Rents soared out of sight. A 
 man looking for a law office was shown a cellar six feet deep and 
 twelve feet square which he could have for two hundred and fifty 
 dollars a month. Cottages, costing in the East about fifteen 
 hundred dollars, with partitions of cloth and paper, rented for a 
 hundred and twenty-five dollars a month. The Parker House, 
 which had cost thirty thousand dollars to build, rented for fifteen 
 thousand a month. A canvas tent, fifteen by twenty-five feet, 
 occupied as a gambling den, paid forty thousand a year rent. 
 Wages were in proportion. Household servants were paid from 
 one hundred to two hundred dollars a month. A cartman of 
 Melius, Howard & Co. received six thousand a year. Other 
 workmen received from fifteen to twenty dollars a day. It was 
 necessary to pay high wages to keep the workmen from going 
 to the mines. An old menu used in 1849 ran as follows: “Bean 
 soup, $1; hash, low grade, 75 cents; hash, eighteen carat, $1; beef, 
 plain, $ 1 ; beef, with one potato, $1.15; baked beans, plain, 75 
 cents; baked beans, greased, $1; two potatoes, 50 cents; two 
 potatoes, peeled, 75 cents; rice pudding, 75 cents.” Bishop Kip, 
 in 1853, paid $5 for an apple for his sick wife. 
 
 Fortunes were made in a week. A citizen died insolvent to 
 the amount of $41,000; by the time his affairs could be settled, 
 real estate had so advanced in value that, after his debts were 
 paid, his heirs had an income of $40,000 a year. Fifteen per cent 
 a month was sometimes paid for money, and it was not unduly 
 difficult to pay it. Bayard Taylor wrote: “Never have I had so 
 much difficulty in establishing, satisfactorily to my own senses, 
 the reality of what I saw and heard. One knows not whether he 
 is awake or in some wonderful dream.” 
 
 Pages might be written of these enchanted times, but there 
 was another side. Some who 
 had sold their all to get to 
 the mines returned unsuc- 
 cessful, keenly disappointed. 
 
 Some returned with money, 
 but broken in health by ex- 
 posure and poor food. Some 
 came back only to lose their 
 
 [ 1 3] 
 
 The Parker House on Kearny Street, Opposite 
 the Plaza, 1840. 
 
SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 golden wealth in gambling and other vices. Some of the discom- 
 forts of daily life can be well imagined from Bayard Taylor’s 
 description of the remarkable scene presented by the town in 
 1849: “The barren side of the hill before us was covered with 
 tents and canvas houses, and nearly in front a large two-story 
 building bore the sign/Fremont Family Hotel.’ As yet we were 
 only in the suburbs. Crossing the shoulder of the hill, the view 
 extended around the curve of the bay, and hundreds of tents and 
 houses appeared, scattered all over the heights and along the 
 shore for more than a mile. On every side stood buildings of all 
 kinds, begun or half finished, and the greater part mere canvas 
 sheds, open in front and covered with all kinds of signs in all 
 languages. Great quantities of goods were piled in the open air 
 for want of a place to store them in. The streets were full of 
 people, hurrying to and fro, and of as diverse and bizarre a char- 
 acter as the houses-Yankees of every variety, native Californians 
 in sarapes and sombreros, Chilians, Sonorians, Kanakas from 
 Hawaii, Chinese with long pig-tails, and Malays armed with 
 creeses. We came at last to the Plaza, now dignified by the name 
 of Portsmouth Square. From a high pole in front of a long one- 
 story building, used as a Custom House, the American flag was 
 flying.” Almost the same view is given by the Rev. William 
 Taylor, a Methodist missionary, who came late in 1849 an d spent 
 seven years in San Francisco, doing good among his fellow men 
 and lifting up his voice for righteousness wherever he could gather 
 an audience, in church or street. He said: “When we reached 
 the summit of the hill above Clark’s Point, we stopped and took 
 a view of the city of tents; not a brick house in the place and 
 but few wooden ones, and not a wharf or pier in the harbor. But 
 for a few old adobe houses, it would have been easy to imagine that 
 
 the whole city was pitched the 
 evening before to accommo- 
 date a vast caravan for the 
 night.” Some months later 
 he emphasized the discom- 
 forts by adding: “I have 
 often gone out in the morn- 
 ing following a stormy night 
 
 [h] 
 
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 £L 
 
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 Crq 
 
 Vi 
 
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 rs 
 
 $ 5 , 
 
 £ Co 
 
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* * The Bay of San Francisco is the safe , convenient and com- 
 modious harbor where trade will be concentrated. In a very few 
 years numerous vessels of all nations— men-of-war , merchantmen , 
 whalers , the Chinese junk , and the powerful steamers— will find 
 here the safest anchorage , the most central situation , and the best 
 market of the Pacific. * * Besides , it appears that the American 
 Government has resolved upon securing the right of establishing 
 a ship canal near the neck of land which divides the two Amer- 
 icas— and there is every reason to believe that this grand and 
 beneficent project will be realized. The advantages which would 
 result from it for California are so evident that we deem it 
 unnecessary to allude to them. 
 
 — TVritten in March, 1848, by Dr. V. V. G. Fourgcaud, for the Special 
 Number of the “ California Star which was circulated in the East. 
 
FROM EARLY DAYS 
 
 and found whole rows of tents lying flat on the ground, and 
 scattered in every direction by the merciless blasts of winter.” 
 
 The hill, from what is now Vallejo street to California above 
 Stockton, was nearly covered with chaparral. There was no grad- 
 ing, planking or paving in any of the streets. The winter of 
 1 849-50 was extraordinarily wet and the ungraded and unpaved 
 streets became Sloughs of Despond. Men and horses were fre- 
 quently mired and extricated with great difficulty. Two horses 
 sank so deep that they could not be rescued, and three men, 
 probably intoxicated, suffocated over night in the mud of Mont- 
 gomery street. Lumber and labor were so costly that it was 
 impossible to build sidewalks. Dirt and brush were thrown in 
 the crosswalks, supplemented by kegs and barrels. Finally the 
 goods of overstocked merchants were used to help out the diffi- 
 culty and, on Montgomery street, between Clay and Jackson, 
 a sort of walk was made of bags of Chilian flour, pressed down 
 nearly out of sight, extended by a row of cooking stoves and 
 boxes of tobacco. In other places barrels of spoiled provisions, 
 kegs of nails and some of the useless gold-washing machines, 
 which every vessel brought, were converted into stepping stones. 
 
 From December, 1 849, to June, 1851, occurred six disastrous 
 fires, each of which nearly annihilated the business part of the 
 town. Millions of dollars’ worth of property was destroyed. 
 Only an indomitable spirit and almost superhuman courage could 
 have survived so many disasters. Instead of bewailing their 
 losses, the day after a fire men were pouring water on the embers, 
 wagons were hauling away the debris and bringing fresh materials 
 for the new buildings. Realizing that wood and canvas offered 
 little resistance to flames, once they had made any headway, an 
 effort was made to ere6t more substantial buildings of brick and 
 and stone. Labor was so high 
 that bricks could not be 
 made nor stone cut at home, 
 so granite, ready dressed, 
 was brought from China, and 
 bricks from Sydney, London 
 andNewYork. Shortly after 
 these fires the common coun- 
 
 [-5] 
 
 I 
 
 Early City Seal, and Seal of City and County. 
 
SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 cil adopted for a corporation 
 seal the design of a phoenix 
 rising from flames before the 
 Golden Gate. When a new 
 seal was adopted by the con- 
 solidated City and County of 
 San Francisco, the phoenix 
 was still retained as a crest 
 above the shield. Its peculiar 
 Celebration of Admission Day, 1850. appropriateness was demon- 
 
 strated in later years, when the same spirit and courage of the 
 people carried them through the crisis of 1906 and rebuilt the 
 city in three and a half years. 
 
 In 1850, September ninth, California was admitted to the 
 Union as a State. From 1846 until the admission, California 
 had occupied an anomalous position, for during those four years 
 it belonged to the United States as the fruit of conquest, and yet, 
 curiously, it never had a territorial form of government. The 
 supreme power was military, but the civil government, especially 
 in the towns, was allowed to go on very much as when under 
 Mexican rule. The delay in settling its political status was due 
 to political intrigues at Washington. 
 
 The news of the admission was received on the eighteenth 
 of October, by the mail steamer, Oregon, amidst the greatest 
 rejoicing. The ship entered the harbor with an unusual display 
 of bunting and soon the good tidings flew from mouth to mouth. 
 Business was suspended and in a short time the hills and house- 
 tops were black with people. When the steamer rounded Clark's 
 Point, her masts covered with flags, a universal shout arose from 
 the people on shore which was repeated again and again. At 
 night the town was illuminated, bonfires blazed on the hills and 
 rockets were fired incessantly. Impromptu parties added to the 
 festivity. The twenty-ninth was set apart as an especial day of 
 rejoicing. A procession, of which the Chinese formed an impor- 
 tant feature, marched through the streets. There was an oration 
 at Portsmouth Square, singing by a large choir, salutes from great 
 guns, and bonfires and fireworks in the evening, which terminated 
 in a grand ball, at which five hundred gentlemen and three hun- 
 
 [ i6 l 
 
FROM EARLY DAYS 
 
 dred ladies danced till daylight. Not long after, San Francisco 
 received a full city charter. John W. Geary was the first mayor. 
 
 As early as 1849 a station was eredted on Telegraph Hill, 
 from which to observe the incoming vessels. A tall pole on which 
 were movable arms was used to signal the character of the vessel 
 to the people in the town below, whether a sailing vessel or a 
 side-wheel steamer of the Pacific Mail. Later a station was estab- 
 lished on Point Lobos, whence a vessel could be observed at a 
 much farther distance, the news signaled to Telegraph Hill and 
 from there to the town. This use of Telegraph Hill gave it its 
 name. In 1853 the eredtion of a telegraph line to Point Lobos, 
 connedted with the Merchants’ Exchange, led to the abandonment 
 of the former signals from there and from Telegraph Hill. The 
 city was also put into telegraphic communication with San Jose, 
 Stockton, Sacramento and Marysville. 
 
 After the Panama Railroad was completed, steamers arrived 
 and departed twice a month. The days before the steamers de- 
 parted were collection days, in order that merchants might be 
 able to transmit the money East for goods. The custom of 
 making colledtions twice a month persisted until the fire, and 
 merchants spoke of those days as “steamer days” long after 
 transmissions of money by steamer had ceased. 
 
 It was the California trade which developed the old clipper 
 ships, which shortened the time of sailing between the Atlantic 
 and the Pacific by several weeks. The old personal names, The 
 Eliza, The Euphemia, were dropped; and names were chosen 
 emblematic of their speed, The Flying Cloud, The White Squall, 
 The Sea Witch, The Meteor. 
 
 In 1854 the city was lighted for the first time with gas. The 
 price was $15 per thousand, 
 to the Mission, one by Mis- 
 sion street, the other by Fol- 
 som. Near the latter street, 
 at about the corner of Sixth 
 and Harrison streets, was 
 Russ’sGarden. CharlesWar- 
 ren Stoddard wrote of it: “It 
 flourished in the Fifties, this 
 
 [ J 7] 
 
SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 very German garden, the 
 pride and property of Mr. 
 Christian Russ. It was a little 
 bit of the Fatherland, trans- 
 ported as if by magic and set 
 down among the hillocks, 
 towards the Mission Dolores. 
 Well I remember being taken 
 there at intervals, to find 
 little tables among artificial 
 bowers, where sat whole families, sedate or merry. * * * There 
 was always something to be seen, to be listened to, to be done. 
 Meals were served at all hours, and beer at all minutes. I re- 
 member how scanty the foliage was; I remember the high wind that 
 blew in from the sea, and the pavilion that was a wonder-world of 
 never-failing attradliveness.” Stoddard tells us too of “The Wil- 
 lows, another sylvan retreat. There were some willows, but I fear 
 they were numbered, and there was an al fresco theatre. The place 
 had quite a Frenchy atmosphere, and was not at all German as 
 was Russ’s Garden. French singers sang French songs upon the 
 stage.” The Willows was in a depression near Valencia street, 
 between Seventeenth and Nineteenth. 
 
 The two Vigilance Committees, of 1851 and 1856, had an 
 important influence upon the history of San Francisco. They 
 accomplished ends which seemed hopeless by any other means. 
 Their success was sometimes made the excuse for illegal pro- 
 ceedings elsewhere which had less happy results. In 1851 a com- 
 mittee of leading citizens, realizing that grave crimes were being 
 committed in their midst and that judges, prosecuting attornevs 
 and police were inefficient, if not corrupt (since the criminals were 
 not brought to justice), banded themselves together, chose a jury, 
 a prosecuting attorney, appointed lawyers to defend the accused, 
 and tried several men for different crimes. Though the adt itself 
 was illegal, the trials were carried on with legal care. Some pris- 
 oners were acquitted; others were sentenced and executed. Many 
 convidts who had been deported to Australia from Great Britain 
 had landed here. By orders of the Vigilance Committee, they 
 were forbidden to land and many were sent out of the country. 
 
 [, 8 ] ' 
 
FROM EARLY DAYS 
 
 No judicial proceedings on behalf of the State were ever taken 
 against members of the Committee. After it had done its work 
 its meetings ceased, though it never formally disbanded. 
 
 By 1856 corruption of city officials and tolerance of crime 
 had again reached such a point that the substantial citizens 
 revolted. Gambling was a prominent feature of the city. El 
 Dorado, the Bella Union, the Verandah, the Arcade, the Casino 
 were a few of the notorious houses. A thousand homicides had 
 been committed in the city between 1849 an d 1856, and there 
 had been only seven executions. The ballot box was stuffed, the 
 forgeries of Henry Meiggs, who built Meiggs’ wharf at North 
 Beach, went unpunished and he was allowed to escape out of th*e 
 country. The courts failed to administer justice and the opinion 
 prevailed that the only way to corredl all these abuses was by 
 another extra-legal organization. The murder of James King of 
 William, the editor of the Bulletin , by James Casey (whom he 
 had denounced as a ballot-box stuffer and a former convid: from 
 Sing Sing, New York) precipitated matters. An organization 
 was effeded of three thousand men, who were formed into com- 
 panies and drilled. There was a general suspension of business. 
 Casey and Cora (another murderer) were tried and convided and 
 hanged in front of the Vigilance headquarters, a building on Sac- 
 ramento street known afterwards as Fort Gunnybags, from the 
 precautionary measures the Committee thought best to take, by 
 barricading the building with bags of sand. After the execution 
 of Cora and Casey the Committee turned their attention to the 
 ballot-box stuffers, and soon the professional criminals fled in 
 terror from the city. Meantime the militia was ordered by the 
 Governor to put down the Committee, by force if necessary. 
 William T. Sherman, then a banker in San Francisco, was se- 
 leded to command it. An 
 endeavor was made to form 
 a Law and Order party, but 
 the Committee was supported 
 by public opinion and, being 
 divided among themselves, 
 the Law and Order party 
 accomplished nothing. Sher- 
 
 i l 9] 
 
SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 man resigned, as he could not procure arms. Two months after 
 the execution of Cora and Casey two more hangings took place 
 by order of the Vigilance Committee— Hetherington and Bruce, 
 both murderers. These four executions were the only ones ordered 
 by the Committee. In each case the prisoner was undoubtedly 
 guilty and regarded as such by the community. Each was tried 
 deliberately and executed publicly. Soon after these executions 
 the Committee disbanded, having been in session two and a half 
 months. The city took a general holiday to witness the disband- 
 ing, and thousands came from the interior to see those who had 
 defied the law in the interest of justice. Flags and flowers adorned 
 the streets. The sidewalks were lined with ladies as the proces- 
 sion of five thousand passed. It included one hundred and fifty 
 members of the Committee of 1851, artillery companies, dragoons, 
 forty-nine physicians and surgeons, Vigilante police, hundreds of 
 citizens on horseback, thirty-three companies of the Vigilante 
 infantry, and numerous military bands. 
 
 After the dissolution, many citizens who had been opposed 
 to the Committee, fearing that such an organization would lead 
 to riots and violence, expressed satisfaction and surprise at the 
 good results. Others cherished bitterness which lasted for years. 
 
 In 1858 water was brought into the city from Lobos creek, 
 by a wooden flume running from the mouth of the creek around 
 the Presidio and Fort Pointand along the bay shore to Telegraph 
 Hill. In In the Footsteps of the Padres , Stoddard gives us a de- 
 scription of the old flume which his boyish footsteps travelled on 
 their way to the beach. This line was the original basis of the 
 Spring Valley Water Works. Previous to the construction of the 
 flume the city was supplied by springs, a few artesian wells, or, 
 for those at a distance from such supplies, by cart and carrier. 
 
 Water-carrying was lucrative 
 business. 
 
 The city was gradually en- 
 larging its borders. In 1858 
 an official map was made 
 which embraced, it was de- 
 clared,^ “all the land the city 
 was ever likely to occupy for 
 
 [ 2 °] 
 
 Old Flume. Home of John C. Fremont at the Right. 
 
icxn 
 
 waS 
 
 ecu 
 
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 Ot-c aSBOtj i-ii’-s mnazjcni'iDjc 
 kit ®s'aBfH|^ai;2D;L_ic: E-.ti. 
 
 . 
 
 ra»SHfflKpaLEit|DnnaDai=: 
 
 j 'DC iWKrofiQOiSlDJlOiZMEjC 
 
 wyEaG^Qragaancaac: 
 
 k«ji ; 'j/tr^MS 
 
 X 
 
 clakk 
 
 -:n. ^ : .. L— r 
 
 ZJCDfi~rau ?0 
 
 ■ IgiyizQDDa !!□□□□□□ 
 
 , i|sE5oSp[z:Q[jisLDCjOa 
 
 'fiMHiaBBiiiail: 
 
 saiiiiHassiB 
 
 MiiMMiiiai 
 
 When Larkin Street 
 Was the Western Bound- 
 ary. Showing Outline 
 of Old Coves and 
 Points. 
 
Deathless 
 
 Thews of the dauntless Norman Knight , blood of the Saxon thane , 
 Eye of the hi.llman , eagle wise , scanning the far-ojf plain , 
 
 Mind of the gentle Puritan , stern in his single thought— 
 
 This was the blood of the Pioneer , this was the Argonaut. 
 
 Out on the hills of the Sunset Land , out by the Western gate, 
 Builded a city to last for aye, under the hand of Fate ; 
 
 This was the Temple of Destiny, out of the Future brought ; 
 
 This was the lasting monument raised by the Argonaut . 
 
 * * * 
 
 — Lowell Otus Reese 
 
FROM EARLY DAYS 
 
 any purpose whatever.” The north and east boundaries were the 
 shores of the bay. The southern limit was Eighteenth street, 
 and the western, Larkin street! When the fire of 1906 was over, 
 all that remained of the city lay almost exactly outside those 
 boundaries made forty-eight years before! In 1858, discovery of 
 gold on the Fraser river started a rush for the new fields, and it 
 was feared at one time that the city would be almost depopu- 
 lated. Real estate lost half its value, but it was only a temporary 
 depression in the fortunes of the city. There were individual 
 losses, but the disappointed miners flocked back to “God’s coun- 
 try,” declaring they would never leave it again. Soon real estate 
 recovered from its momentary decline; and in 1859, the Hayes 
 Tra6t, west of Larkin street and south of Turk, was put upon 
 the market, so soon after it had been declared that Larkin street 
 must remain the western boundary. 
 
 The city’s population grew more and more cosmopolitan: 
 English, Scotch, Irish, German, French, Spanish, Italian, Greek, 
 Turk, Russian, Swede, Syrian, Persian, Hindoo, Malay, Chinese, 
 Japanese, Pacific Islander, Mexican, Central and Southern Amer- 
 ican, and African were found upon the streets, in charadteristic 
 dress and speaking their characteristic tongues. The circulating 
 medium was as varied as the people who handled it. There were 
 English sovereigns, and Spanish doubloons; there were private 
 coins— five and ten dollar pieces of Moffat £s? Company; five, ten 
 and twenty dollar pieces of Baldwin £s? Company; five and ten 
 dollar pieces of Dubosq £s? Company, and five dollar pieces of 
 Schultz Company and Dunbar £5? Company. There were 
 stamped ingots, varying in value from forty to a hundred and fifty 
 dollars, and fifty dollar coins (large, odtagonal discs a little thicker 
 than a double-eagle) which went by the name of slugs. There 
 were also round fifty dollar 
 pieces, as well as a few private 
 twenty-five dollar coins. In 
 silver there were American 
 dollars, Mexican pesos and 
 reals, the French five-franc 
 pieces, Indian rupees, Eng- 
 lish shillings and sixpences. 
 
 [21] 
 
SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 Anything about the size of 
 an American dollar, as the 
 French five-franc piece, cir- 
 culated for a dollar, although 
 it might contain much less 
 silver; and the same with 
 other coins. A rupee passed 
 for a half dollar, an English 
 shilling for a quarter, or two 
 bits. No coin less than a bit 
 or real was recognized, but an English sixpence or an American 
 dime passed for a bit. The latter was often called a short bit, 
 and the rest of the quarter a long bit. 
 
 In i860 the Pony Express was established, carrying letters 
 between St. Joseph, Mo. (the western end of the railroad on the 
 Atlantic slope), and Sacramento, on the Pacific slope. By relays, 
 the trip was made in about ten and a half days, each horse trav- 
 elling about twenty-four miles. The mail was sent twice a week 
 each way. The rate of postage being five dollars a half ounce, 
 only important letters were sent in this way. The time for let- 
 ters between New York and San Francisco was reduced to thirteen 
 days; news was brought down to ten, as the rider received by 
 telegraph at St. Joseph, before starting, the latest news from the 
 East. These messengers, riding night and day across the plains 
 through bands of hostile Indians, are among the most heroic 
 charaders of American history. 
 
 Previous to the early Sixties, the titles of land south of Pine 
 street had been in dispute; so the growth of the city had been 
 largely north of Pine on Stockton, Powell, Mason and Taylor 
 streets. All the hotels except the Oriental were north of Pine 
 street, and so were the churches. When the titles were settled 
 the growth of the southern part was rapid. In earlier days omni- 
 buses ran every half hour between North Beach and South Park; 
 but about this time horse-cars, and steam-cars on Market street 
 and Valencia, furnished transportation. 
 
 After a period of financial depression, the rapid advance of 
 agriculture in the State and the development of silver mines in 
 Nevada furnished new stimulus to the city's a&ivities. The Russ 
 
 [22] 
 
FROM EARLY DAYS 
 
 House, the Lick House and the Occidental Hotel were built, in 
 addition to fourteen hundred new houses in the course of the 
 year ending August, 1 8 6 1 . 
 
 The Sixties were years of great excitement— the years of the 
 Civil War, the building of the Central Pacific Railroad and the 
 development of the Comstock lode in Nevada, which enriched 
 to an enormous degree a number of San Franciscans and made 
 and lost fortunes for others through the speculations which were 
 stimulated. 
 
 At the outbreak of the Civil War the fate of California was 
 undecided. Many Southerners, ardent sympathizers with the 
 cause of secession, were within her borders. Thomas Starr King, 
 Senator Baker and others roused by their eloquence the latent 
 loyalty of the people and the cause of the Union triumphed. 
 The same fervid voice of King pleaded for the cause of the San- 
 itary Commission with such force that at the first meeting $6,600 
 was contributed. Later, committees were appointed and the work 
 systematized, with the result that out of the $4,800,000 cash the 
 Sanitary Commission received, California contributed nearly 
 $1,250,000. San Francisco alone sent $360,000 the first year 
 and $25,000 a month thereafter. 
 
 In January, 1 863, ground was broken at Sacramento for the 
 construction of the Central Pacific Railroad; Leland Stanford, 
 Collis P. Huntington, Charles Crocker and Mark Hopkins, 
 thereafter known as the “Big Four,” being associated in the work. 
 To Theodore D. Judah, who was employed as engineer for the 
 laying out and construction of the earlier short road from Sacra- 
 mento to Folsom, is due in a large measure the construction of 
 this road. His zeal and activity inspired confidence in the men 
 who undertook the enterprise, and it was he who discovered the 
 most practicable pass over 
 the Sierras. He died at the 
 early age of thirty-seven. In 
 May, 1869, the last spike of 
 the Central Pacific Railroad 
 was driven near Salt Lake, 
 and the Atlantic and Pacific 
 became united by steel rails. 
 
 [23] 
 
 A Former Nob Hill Mansion, the Home of Charles Crocker. 
 
SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 The mansions on Nob 
 Hill were built in the Seven- 
 ties by millionaires created 
 by the Central Pacific and 
 the silver mines of Nevada. 
 The hill acquired its present 
 name through the universal 
 adoption of the slang term 
 given to it after these houses 
 of the “nobs” were ereCted. 
 There is a tradition, not very well authenticated, that in some 
 early Gazeteer the name “Knob” was applied to it and that at 
 this time the “K” was dropped, leaving the more picturesque 
 title. Be this as it may, it has been Nob Hill since the Seventies. 
 
 During this decade the Palace Hotel was built; the City 
 Hall was begun; San Francisco had become a metropolis. 
 
 William C. Ralston (who had contributed so much to the 
 activities of the city and the State) died, leaving the Bank of 
 California, of which he was president, in financial difficulties. 
 Ralston had been a promoter on a great scale. He entertained 
 lavishly at his country home at Belmont, where there were accom- 
 modations for a hundred guests. Shortly before his death, he 
 built a house in the city for similar entertainment. The scale of 
 his hospitality was such that it was rumored (though without 
 foundation) the bank allowed him $ 150,000 a year for this pur- 
 pose. He was charitable, considerate and obliging, and he left 
 many warm friends. The bank was reorganized by the stock- 
 holders in the interests of protection to the business of the city. 
 The stockholders, many of them millionaires, formed a syndi- 
 cate, supplied the lost capital by assessment and reopened the 
 bank five weeks after it closed, since when, as a financial institu- 
 tion, it has ranked with the strongest on the Pacific coast. 
 
 In 1876 James Lick died, leaving nearly all his vast fortune 
 to benefactions for the city and State. The Lick Observatory, 
 the Lick School of Mechanical Arts, the Lick Free Baths, the 
 Old Ladies’ Home and statuary in the city and in Golden Gate 
 Park are some of his gifts. After the payment of all appropria- 
 tions and the gifts to his relatives, the remainder of his fortune 
 
 [24] 
 
FROM EARLY DAYS 
 
 was divided between the California Academy of Sciences and the 
 Society of California Pioneers. His name should always be held 
 in grateful remembrance. He was one of the curious characters 
 of which there have been so many in San Francisco. He was a 
 cabinet-maker with scanty education, a native of Pennsylvania, 
 who emigrated when a young man to South America where he 
 accumulated $30,000. He came to San Francisco in 1847 an d 
 invested his savings in real estate. His fortune was made almost 
 exclusively by the rise in land values; for instance, for the lot 
 on which the Lick House stood he gave $300. A few years 
 after he died it was worth $750,000. He built a grist mill on 
 Guadalupe creek near San Jose, which made excellent flour, but 
 was especially noteworthy because its inside timbers were made of 
 solid mahogany. It was said that before he left his Pennsylvania 
 home he was refused the hand of a miller's daughter, and that 
 he then vowed he would build a mill of his own some day which 
 would open their eyes with astonishment. He planted an exten- 
 sive orchard and garden, in which were grown nearly every kind 
 of tree, shrub or vegetable which could be cultivated in the State. 
 He built a large and costly mansion near San Jose which he never 
 occupied. He lived frugally in a tiny house, not much more 
 than a shanty. Though without much education, he had a great 
 veneration for science, and believed that by promoting its culti- 
 vation he could do the greatest good to mankind. Theodore 
 Hittell pays him the following tribute: “Everything indicated a 
 pure, unselfish, disinterested, benevolent, highly enlightened phil- 
 anthropy; and the more all the circumstances are considered, the 
 more excellent, sublime and worthy of admiration appears the 
 man who could and did so ad.” 
 
 Another great benefador of San Francisco was Adolph Sutro. 
 He was born in Aix-la-Cha- 
 pelle in 1 830 and came to this 
 city in 1850. After spending 
 nearly a decade in business 
 in San Francisco, he went 
 to Virginia City, Nevada. 
 
 While there he conceived the 
 idea of construding a great 
 
 2 5 ] 
 
 The Lick House, Montgomery Street near Post. 
 
SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 tunnel under the silver mines to drain them, furnish better ven- 
 tilation and enable the ore and debris to be removed with greater 
 facility. The owners of the mines at first fell in with the scheme, 
 but, finding that Sutro was not a man whom they could control, 
 they opposed him; and, as many of them were large stockholders 
 in the Bank of California, he found he could not raise money 
 there. Single-handed and alone he fought his way, secured legis- 
 lation, ledtured in Nevada, the East and Europe upon his proj- 
 ect, raised the necessary money and personally pushed the work 
 to completion. The tunnel did all that he claimed; the mine 
 owners were finally glad to pay him to allow the water from their 
 mines to drain through, it, that being cheaper for them than 
 pumping, and Sutro finally sold his stock at a good figure. He 
 returned to San Francisco and during his lifetime added much 
 to the advantages of the city, and many of his works live after 
 him. He bought the bare hills of the San Miguel rancho, which 
 he named Mount Parnassus. He covered them with trees that 
 have grown into a forest and greatly beautify the city. He bought 
 the grounds now known as Sutro Heights, made the beautiful 
 garden which he opened to the public, and built the great salt 
 water baths which bear his name. He bought the Cliff House 
 property and built the house of that name which was destroyed 
 by fire in 1907, and he collected in Europe the immense library 
 of books and manuscripts (known as the Sutro Library) which 
 he offered to the city under certain conditions with which the 
 city failed to comply. 
 
 The centennial year of the birth of American independence— 
 1876-was observed in San Francisco with especial emphasis, the 
 rejoicing of the city being not only on account of the Nation, but 
 also because it was the anniversary of her own birth. The cele- 
 bration began on the Saturday 
 before the Fourth of July by 
 patriotic sermons in the syn- 
 agogues, followed by others 
 of a similar character in the 
 churches Sunday. Monday, 
 Tuesday and Wednesday at 
 the Presidio there were sham 
 
 [26] 
 
On the Heights. 
 
 While round the rock where bask the seal 
 The gulls in sunny circles wheel. 
 
 The waters of the Golden Shore 
 Lave her fair sands, and fret no more. 
 
 A charm is on the sea, the bay. 
 
 The glistening white caps melt away; 
 Between the brown walls silently 
 The dipping ships are steering by. 
 
 A shape unseen, of might unguessed. 
 
 Sits at this gateway of the West; 
 
 Smiling she waits here by the sea. 
 Beckoning our glories yet to be. 
 
 — John Vance Cheney 0 
 
FROM EARLY DAYS 
 
 battles, firing at a target-boat by warships in the bay, processions, 
 illuminations, orations and balls. The hundredth anniversary of 
 the consecration of the Mission was celebrated on the eighth of 
 October by a large procession, services in the old church and 
 orations by Archbishop Alemany, General Mariano Vallejo and 
 John W. Dwindle. 
 
 The years 1876 and 1877 were periods of business depres- 
 sion in San Francisco, and many of the laboring class were thrown 
 out of work. The news of the great labor and railroad riots in 
 Philadelphia, Baltimore and Pittsburg fired the smouldering 
 discontent which at first was turned against the Chinese. One 
 laundry was burned and others were wrecked. Threats were made 
 to drive out the Asiatics, by fire if necessary. As the police force 
 was insufficient to handle the mob, if aroused, and as there were 
 about three hundred Chinese laundries in a city composed largely 
 of wooden houses, the situation was grave. There was danger of 
 the destruction of the whole city by fire. A public meeting of 
 citizens was called and a protective association was formed under 
 the leadership of William T. Coleman, who had been president 
 of the Vigilantes in 1856. On application to the United States 
 Government, arms were granted and several vessels were sent 
 from Mare Island, as threats had been made against the Pacific 
 Mail Steamship Company, that company being held responsible 
 by the laboring men for bringing over the Chinese. Arms were 
 distributed among the citizens and they were formed into com- 
 panies and drilled. Coleman, not wishing to use firearms if it 
 could be avoided, obtained six thousand pick-handles which were 
 given out, to be used as clubs if the necessity arose. The rioters 
 congregated one night near the threatened docks and set fire to 
 lumber yards near by. Policemen and a large number of the pick- 
 handle brigade fought them 
 and there was a hard struggle 
 which lasted two hours. A 
 few were killed and a number 
 wounded. By midnight the 
 city was quiet and for a time 
 there were no more disturb- 
 ances. The war vessels went 
 
 [ 2 7 ] 
 
 The Centennial of the Old Mission. 
 
 mmm 
 
SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 back to Mare Island, the 
 arms were returned to the 
 Government, and thanks for- 
 warded to the Secretary of 
 War and the Secretary of the 
 Navy. But discontent con- 
 tinued among the laboring 
 classes. A man arose who 
 was ambitious to become the 
 leader, Dennis Kearney, an 
 Irish drayman who had been recently naturalized. He addressed 
 the workmen in halls and on street corners and, finally, regularly 
 every Sunday afternoon in vacant sand-lots before the City Hall. 
 The party which he tried to organize, as a Trade and Labor 
 Union, or Workingman’s party, came to be known as the Sand- 
 lot party and Kearney as the sand-lot agitator. He used the 
 most incendiary language-at first against the Chinese, but soon 
 against capitalists in general, who throve, he declared, on the 
 cheap labor of the Chinese. He incited the unemployed to take 
 matters into their own hands (use fire and hemp, if necessary) to 
 drive out the Chinese, and to make the thieves, as he called the 
 capitalists, give up their plunder. He declared that he and his 
 followers would march to the City Hall, clear out the police 
 force and hang the prosecuting attorney, and he made even direr 
 threats against any member of the Workingman’s party who 
 should flag in interest. With three thousand men he led a dem- 
 onstration against the millionaires of Nob Hill. He and other 
 leaders were arrested for inciting riots. While in jail they weak- 
 ened and wrote to the Mayor, making promises of moderation 
 for the future. The Mayor did not interfere, but, when their trial 
 came up, the ordinance under which they were arrested was found 
 invalid. Again they were arrested and again discharged. This 
 time they made a great parade of nearly ten thousand people, 
 with banners and mottoes. There was more talk of lynching the 
 magnates and destroying property, of dropping dynamite from 
 balloons into the Chinese quarters. Kearney, hearing that the 
 Legislature was likely to interfere, said in one of his tirades,' “If 
 the Legislature oversteps the bounds of decency, then I say, 
 
FROM EARLY DAYS 
 
 Hemp! Hemp! Hemp!” One of his followers, a sort of evan- 
 gelist, fond of quoting Bible passages, added, “What are we to do 
 with these people, that are starving our poor, and degrading our 
 wives aud daughters and sisters? And the Lord said unto Moses, 
 ‘Take all the heads of the people and hang them before the 
 Lord/” The Grand Jury indicted them but again they were 
 released. Finally an aCt was introduced and passed in Senate and 
 Assembly which had the effeCt of quieting the demagogues, and 
 at the same time the police was increased. From the sand-lot 
 movement arose the Workingman's party, each member of which 
 bound himself to sever all connection with other political parties. 
 
 The Second Constitutional Convention met in Sacramento 
 in 1878. The Workingman’s party formed one wing of it. All 
 sorts of propositions were brought forward, most of them aimed 
 against the Chinese and those who employed them. Some 
 counselled moderation; some drastic measures. Only one voice 
 in the convention, loud enough to be heard, seems to have been 
 lifted in their favor-that of Charles V. Stuart of Sonoma county. 
 
 As the years went by, San Francisco’s expansion and munic- 
 ipal problems became more those of the ordinary city. Her 
 Mission era, her gold and her silver era had passed. She made 
 history daily, but it was not unusual history, though she still 
 retained her charm of the bizarre. The Emperor Norton walked 
 the streets, levying tribute from his loyal “subjects,” as he needed 
 it— a crack-brained Frenchman of courtly manners, who had once 
 been a man of affairs. He imagined himself the Emperor of the 
 World, was given carte-blanche at most of the restaurants and 
 theatres, clothed by the officers of the Presidio in the military 
 garb he thought suitable, and kept in spending money by the 
 purchase of the fifty-cent “bonds” he issued as seemed to him 
 needful. In what other city 
 could he have passed his 
 days so happily? 
 
 The surface was rippled 
 in 1894 by the Mid-Winter 
 Fair, held in Golden Gate 
 Park, an aftermath of the 
 Chicago Fair of 1893, an d 
 
 [ 2 9 ] 
 
 The Emperor Norton. 
 
 
SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 during the Spanish war the 
 the soldier element was very 
 much in evidence. Immense 
 camps filled unused spaces 
 and Market street often re- 
 sounded to the marching feet 
 of regiments, going to or re- 
 turning from the Philippines. 
 Then life went on as before 
 and it seemed as if the dra- 
 matic days of the city were over, but she awoke one morning to 
 the greatest tragedy of her existence. 
 
 In the early dawn of April eighteenth, 1906, occurred the 
 earthquake which, with its resultant fires, was the greatest disas- 
 ter of modern times. The fires, uncontrollable by reason of the 
 broken water mains, swept on until over four square miles— two 
 thousand five hundred and ninety-three acres, more than five 
 hundred city blocks-were consumed. Only dynamiting of the 
 eastern side of Van Ness avenue throughout its entire length 
 saved the rest of the city. The story of the appalling disaster 
 has been told so many times in newspapers and magazine articles, 
 and in serious books, and so many allusions have been made in 
 this book, in connexion with different portions of the city, that 
 only a few prominent and picturesque features will be noted here. 
 A characteristic which impressed everyone was the calm accept- 
 ance of what had occurred; there was little bemoaning and no 
 hysteria. During the days of the fire the tension was terrible; 
 people held their breath and waited. One who went through it 
 will never forget the relaxation and relief when, on the third 
 night, soldiers rode through the streets of the western part of 
 the city announcing that the danger was past, the fire under con- 
 trol. To a large extent, certainly for the first few weeks, individual 
 losses were sunk in the great totality. Nobody complained. Per- 
 haps home and means of livlihood were gone, but all cheerfully 
 said, cc We are no worse off than the rest,” and took up the burden 
 of trying to bring order out of chaos. Later, when the first feel- 
 ings of dazed bewilderment and of dumb acquiescence wore away, 
 natural feelings must have asserted themselves, in rich and poor 
 
 The Uncontrollable , Devouring Fire. 
 
FROM EARLY DAYS 
 
 alike. Household treasures, heirlooms, prized collections were 
 ashes; private libraries, private art-galleries, artists’ studios— no 
 one can estimate these losses. The pictures in one private gal- 
 lery were worth a quarter of a million— a loss to those who wrought 
 the pictures as well as to the owner, since that much less remained 
 in the world of their work to give lustre to their names. The 
 stamp collection lost by one man was valued at $80,000. One 
 thing the people did save— their household pets. As the endless 
 procession passed towards the Park and Presidio— three days and 
 two nights the steady tramp of feet was not stilled-the number 
 of canaries, parrots and cats which were carried, and of dogs 
 which followed, was remarkable. It seemed as if St. Francis, in 
 the destruction of his city, had put it into their hearts to remem- 
 ber his “little brothers.” 
 
 “Choose!” cried the Fiend, and his breath 
 Withered the blossoming city; 
 
 “I am Destruction and Death— 
 
 Choose! Is it greed, now, or pity? 
 
 Ye have been given this hour. 
 
 Hardly I wait on your pleasure; 
 
 What will ye save from my power. 
 
 Life or your treasure?” 
 
 Then with one voice they replied: 
 
 “All that earth hath in its giving 
 
 Reckon we nothing beside 
 Even the least of the living.” 
 
 — Charles K. Field. 
 
 For nearly six weeks there could be no fire of any sort in 
 the houses. There was no gas; chimneys had to be rebuilt and 
 inspected before ranges could be used. So everyone cooked in 
 the street before his door, and the stoves varied from a piece of 
 sheet-iron, or a grate, on six 
 bricks, to the largest kitchen 
 range. Those who had used 
 only gas for cooking in their 
 houses were obliged to im- 
 provise stoves as best they 
 could. Japanese and Chinese 
 servants usually stayed with 
 
 [ 3 1 ] 
 
SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 the families where they were working. White servants usually 
 departed to join their own families if they were within reach. So 
 many a lady fried the beefsteaks and boiled the water for her 
 family whose kitchen had been almost a terra incognita to her. 
 Often her husband, his business being wiped away, joined her 
 and they made a sort of picnic of the enforced inconveniences, 
 congratulating themselves that they had something to cook. 
 Nevertheless, it was no picnic to cook for six weeks on the curb 
 in front of the house, with the kitchen at the back, half the length 
 of the lot away. Most San Francisco houses have high porches, 
 but thankful might the householder be who, if the pepper or 
 salt was forgotten, did not have to travel one or two long flights 
 of stairs, as did the dwellers in upper flats. The situation made 
 for neighborliness and kindly interchange of helpful offices. 
 
 “An* Mrs. Van Bergen she greets me these days 
 With a smile an’ a nod of the head; 
 
 ‘Ah, Mrs. McGinnis, how are you?’ she says, 
 
 ‘An’ do you like Government bread?’ 
 
 She fetches a bag made of crockydile skin 
 An’ I’ve got a sack when we meet. 
 
 But the same kind of coffee an’ crackers goes in. 
 
 An’ it’s all of it cooked in the street. 
 
 Sure Mrs. Van Bergen is takin’ it fine. 
 
 Ye’d think she was used to the food; 
 
 We’re gettin’ acquainted a-standin’ in line. 
 
 An’ it’s doin’ the both of us good.” 
 
 ■ — Charles K. Field. 
 
 As the days went by, shelters were built around these kitch- 
 ens, to keep out the wind and dust of the street-old shutters, 
 bill boards, linoleum, gunnysacks stretched around stakes, pack- 
 ing boxes— anything which could be found in the neighborhood 
 
 was pressed into service. 
 Then the streets began to 
 look like camps-long rows 
 of these shelters on each side 
 of the road. 
 
 One cheerful soul put up 
 a motto,' “Make the best of 
 it and forget the rest of it!” 
 
 [ 3 2 ] 
 
 A Bread Line on Eddy Street. 
 
Old St. Mary’s 
 After the Fire. Photo- 
 graph by R. J. Waters. 
 
To San Francisco . 
 
 * * Better than halls of justice and pavilions of pleasure , bet- 
 er than churches and homes , are loving hearts , tried, by a common 
 sorrow , triumphing over a common disaster. To-day, facing a loss 
 which has appalled the world, thou art the richest in the federa- 
 tion of cities, for thou hast tested the courage of thy people, 
 proved the love and loyalty of thy children, made certain both the 
 heroism and the kindliness of thy daughters and sons. Hail, dear 
 San Francisco, pueblo of gray friars and Spanish dons, camp of 
 the argonauts, metropolis of the new Pacific— Hail, City of Yes- 
 terday and Tomorrow ! I salute thee reborn, rejuvenated, casting 
 the slough that unworthily envisaged thee, rising out of thy 
 burned self to a more fair, more glorious realization of thy prom- 
 ise and thy destiny ! 
 
 — From dedication to 11 San Francisco Through Earthquake 
 and Fire," by Charles Keeler, igo6. 
 
 I 
 
FROM EARLY DAYS 
 
 And soon most of the little shacks bore a sign— some humorous, 
 some offering good advice— all speaking of cheerfulness and hope. 
 Some recalled past glories with “The Fairmont,” and “The Zin- 
 kand,” while near by was seen “The Unfairmont,” and the “Tin- 
 canned.” One was “The Wayside Inn,” and close by was “The 
 Inside Out.” One wrote,“Out in the cold world, out in the 
 street;” but such self-pity could not be tolerated, so some one 
 added, “But what’s the use of kicking, when you’ve got enough 
 to eat.” “Do-drop In” was attached to one. There was “The 
 New St. Francis” and “The Palace Grill” and “Little America,” 
 the latter a shelter made of American flags. “The House of 
 Mirth” was there, and “The House of Mystery.” Some were 
 moved to encourage their fellow men by dropping into rhyme: 
 
 < ‘Don’t cast around that look of gloom. 
 
 Like you’ve stepped out of a tomb. 
 
 Hide your heartache if you’re sad; 
 
 Make believe you’re feeling glad. 
 
 Chase the mean look from your eye; 
 
 Things will boom up bye and bye.” 
 
 Others offered the same advice in more condensed form, “Look 
 pleasant; it is not expensive,” “Never say die; let the other fel- 
 low do that.” 
 
 The humorous signs found their way down town. On Fill- 
 more street a push-cart, furnishing sandwiches and coffee, called 
 your attention with “Meals a la cart.” Further down town the 
 ruin of a store bore the inscription, “Forced to move on account 
 of alterations on April 18th.” Another said,“Pushed to the wall, 
 but coming through.” Another ambitious one wrote, “First to 
 shake, first to burn, first to begin, a living to earn.” Near the 
 top of a tall sky-scraper, in which the flames had done their work, 
 an attorney hung out a sign, 
 
 “Moved because the eleva- 
 tors are not running.” 
 
 Fillmore street, a cross- 
 town street in the Western 
 Addition, had a good many 
 small stores, which made the 
 nucleus of a new retail center. 
 
 Four Square Miles of Desolation Like This. 
 
SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 Before the ashes had ceased 
 falling, every available house 
 on the street was rented. One 
 man advertised, cc My rent re- 
 ceipt for my present location 
 is dated April 20th, 1906.” 
 Such high rents were offered 
 for the houses that every for- 
 tunate owner could afford to 
 move out and live on his 
 income elsewhere. Doctors, lawyers and dentists opened offices 
 on the upper floors, the lower were filled with shops of every 
 variety, and Fillmore street became for a time the main retail 
 street. It soon bore the asped: of a country fair. All sorts of 
 booths, tents and hastily ereded sheds filled the vacant lots and 
 street corners. Lunch wagons and counters close to the side- 
 walks offered refreshments, and “pop,” lemonade and all sorts of 
 soft drinks, to allay the thirst of throats parched by mortar-dust 
 and ashes. Spielers at the corners cried out their wares. It was 
 pandemonium. All saloons were closed and no liquor could be 
 had except on the prescription of a physician, countersigned by 
 General Greely. As a consequence San Francisco was free from 
 crime as it had never been before. The next phase of shopping 
 accommodations was when the larger firms opened in houses. 
 Some of the merchants and bankers used their own homes; others 
 rented houses, mostly on the west side of Van Ness avenue. As 
 in the case of Fillmore street, the enormous rents paid would 
 amply compensate for any damage to the homes. Van Ness ave- 
 nue was chosen because it was further down town, a wide and 
 pleasant street, and on the eastern side (entirely vacant by 
 reason of the dynamiting) temporary store buildings could soon 
 be erected. 
 
 It was a curious experience to enter a store by a marble 
 vestibule, find yourself in a beautiful great hall, with carved oak 
 staircase and stained-glass windows, to have the goods you desired 
 brought to you from the pantry or sideboard drawers or from 
 the library shelves, to have them spread before you on a beautiful 
 great dining-table, around which not long before wit and beauty 
 
 [34] 
 
FROM EARLY DAYS 
 
 had made merry; or, in another room, to be served at a hastily 
 improvised pine counter, while your feet pressed the rich velvet 
 carpet and your eyes rested upon the fine oil paintings which 
 had not yet been taken from the walls. If you wandered up the 
 stairway to look at suits or coats, perhaps you were asked to step 
 into the bath-room to be fitted. It was a topsy-turvy land, but 
 in a few months Van Ness avenue became a delightful shopping 
 street. On the eastern side were temporary structures with large 
 plate-glass windows, giving the effeCt of handsome stores. On 
 the western side, temporary fronts with large windows were built 
 from the houses to the sidewalk. One store, occupying a man- 
 sion, built on the terraced garden in the rear a pretty tea house, 
 which became a very popular place with ladies. 
 
 It was a sight to stir the heart and warm the blood— yes, to 
 bring a lump in the throat— to walk up Van Ness avenue on a 
 sunny afternoon. From the pole which surmounted each build- 
 ing waved one or two flags and a pennant, all flying straight in 
 the afternoon western breeze. The pennant bore the name of 
 the store or firm, one flag was the Stars and Stripes and, if there 
 were two, the other marked the nationality of the owners; the 
 flags of all nations mingled with our own. Flying gaily the whole 
 length of the avenue, they symbolized triumph over disaster, 
 and proclaimed to the world the spirit which sent the merchants 
 back down town to the old locality three and a half years after 
 the desolating fire. 
 
 In the light of the splendid new buildings which now cover 
 what the fire laid waste, how queer the croakings of the few pes- 
 simists of those times read. The generosity of the world to the 
 stricken city, and the kind words which cheered her through her 
 well-nigh impossible task, will never be forgotten, and we can 
 all afford to laugh together 
 now over these words of 
 discouragement: “How any 
 thinking person can go into 
 the ruins of the destroyed 
 city and mingle with the 
 people and then buoyantly 
 declare that San Francisco 
 
 [35] 
 
 Van Ness Avenue in Sixty Days — The Banners of Hope. 
 
SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 will rise like a Phoenix from 
 her ashes, more beautiful and 
 more prosperous than ever, is 
 notunderstandable.Howany 
 man can calmly compute the 
 universal loss and say that 
 within a few years San Fran- 
 cisco will be rebuilt, is also 
 incomprehensible. Poor old 
 San Francisco is prostrate. 
 She is dead. There is no city; there is no business. There are 
 only clusters of residences.” It is to be hoped that the writer 
 of that article has walked the streets of the new city, has visited 
 the new stores and public buildings, has examined the bank 
 clearings and has seen the plans of the great Exposition. An 
 Exposition of such magnitude has never been undertaken, and, 
 as San Franciscans have proved that they can do things, there is 
 every reason to expeCt a great achievement. Dead? No! Nor 
 would she be if she were overtaken again by a like calamity- 
 from which fate this, or any other, city might devoutly pray to 
 be spared. The same spirit, which led the pioneer of 1 8 5 1 to put 
 “Nil Desperandum” over his door when rebuilding after the 
 fourth fire, is still alive. 
 
 “Did they think that the sons of the men who had won 
 With their lives to the Golden Gate 
 Were the sort that would yelp like the beggars for help 
 Or would sprawl in the ruins and wait? 
 
 It was then that the crashing of hammer and steel 
 Made a glorious music to hear. 
 
 For our fathers had beaten the very same tune 
 With the ax of the pioneer.” 
 
 — W. 0. McGeehan. 
 
 We have lost forever some things of the old days-land- 
 marks, customs and expressions, which kept alive the early his- 
 tory. The business man no longer makes his collections twice a 
 month and speaks of these days as “steamer days;” but he still 
 prefers gold and silver coin to bank notes. We seldom hear now 
 of fifty vara and hundred vara lots, but we still speak of “over in 
 the Mission” and “the Potrero.” Enough of the early color is 
 
 [ 3 6 1 
 
FROM EARLY DAYS 
 
 left to tinge the commonplace with romance; and the city is 
 still, as Stevenson called it, “the smelting pot of races.” More 
 than half its newspapers are published in a foreign language, and 
 almost every denomination of churches holds services in half a 
 dozen different tongues. If, some day, on Market street, one 
 hears the sound of martial music and the tramp of marching feet, 
 and asks what these bands and banners mean, he is likely to be 
 told that they are the Czechs, or perhaps the Montenegrins, mak- 
 ing holiday-some people of whom one did not suppose the city 
 contained more than a handful; and here are hundreds in line. 
 On Columbus Day, thousands of Italians make a long and im- 
 pressive procession. The Fourteenth of July brings out as many 
 Frenchmen to celebrate the Fall of the Bastile. 
 
 The climate makes for the joy of living, though belied by 
 some who notice only the fog and windy afternoons of summer. 
 But it is the wind which keeps the air clean and pure and free 
 from disease; and every San Franciscan who, away from home, 
 experiences extreme summer heat, longs for a whiff of the brac- 
 ing fog. As we escape extreme heat, so do we also extreme cold. 
 The average winter temperature is fifty-one degrees, and the 
 average summer temperature, fifty-nine degrees. There is perfect 
 freedom from thunderstorms, cyclones, blizzards and sun-strokes, 
 and in planning for outings, for nine months of the year, no 
 account need be taken of possible weather conditions. 
 
 And now at the beginning of a distind era of the city’s life, 
 a new generation of men is coming into public adivity and 
 prominence— men of that same indomitable energy and matchless 
 courage which charaderized both the founders and the builders. 
 Without the fortitude and experience of the older men, the city 
 could not have been rebuilt; without the new blood of this 
 vigorous younger generation, 
 the amazing rehabilitation 
 would still be in the distant 
 future. In spirit, the San 
 Francisco of the present is 
 the true and logical succes- 
 sor of the San Francisco of 
 other days. 
 
 [37] 
 
 Down Town in Three Years! — Pacific, Commercial 
 
 and Emporium Buildings. 
 
Across the Golden Gate. Marin County Hills. Mount Tamalpais in the Distance. 
 
 Chapter Two • Physical Characteristics 
 
 S an Francisco occupies the extreme northern end of a pen- 
 insula, about thirty miles long and averaging about fifteen 
 miles in width. At San Francisco it is seven miles 
 across. Three sides of the city are lapped by water. The 
 ocean washes the western boundary, the Golden Gate and 
 San Francisco bay the northern, and the bay the eastern. The 
 land is mostly sand dunes, with an occasional outcropping of 
 rock. The bay— a land-locked harbor, “where the navies of the 
 world could ride”— is irregular in shape, about seventy miles long 
 and averaging ten miles in width. From San Francisco to the 
 Alameda County shores it is less than five miles across. The 
 northern part is called San Pablo bay. From this, Suisun bay 
 opens to the east, through the Straits of Carquinez. Into Suisun 
 bay flow the mingled waters of the Sacramento and San Joaquin 
 rivers, which drain the great, fertile Sacramento and San Joa- 
 quin valleys. Vallejo and Benicia (where the Southern Pacific 
 trains are ferried across the Carquinez straits) are between Suisun 
 and San Pablo bays. Napa, Sonoma and Petaluma are a little 
 further north, all surrounded by beautiful country, all watered 
 by creeks which flow into the bay. 
 
 Marin county, with its pretty towns nestled among the hills 
 of the Coast range, lies between San Pablo bay and the ocean, 
 north of the Golden Gate. Mount Tamalpais is the dominating 
 peak of Marin county, the changeful beauty of whose hills adds 
 to the varied attractiveness of San Francisco. From the city’s 
 northern slopes one can see the shadows unfold their wonderful 
 depths of color when the hills are dry and brown, or watch the 
 mist of green steal over them day by day, after the first fall rains. 
 
 [38] 
 
Co 
 
 O'- 
 
 er^ 
 
 o 
 
 o 
 
 
At Point Lobos. 
 
 * * * 
 
 Brown pipers run upon the sand 
 Like shadows ; far out from the land 
 Gray gulls slide up against the blue; 
 One shining spar is sudden manned 
 By squadrons of their wrecking crew. 
 
 My city is beyond the hill; 
 
 I cannot hear its voices shrill; 
 
 1 little heed its gains and greeds ; 
 Here is my song, where waters spill 
 Their liquid strophes in the reeds. 
 
 And to this music I forswear 
 Whatever soils the world with care ; 
 
 I see the listless waters toss— 
 
 I track the swift lark through the air— 
 I lie with sunlight on the moss. 
 
 * * * 
 
 Until the homely sunburnt Heads, 
 
 The tumbling hills in browns and reds. 
 And gray sand-hillocks everywhere 
 Are buried in the mist that sheds 
 Its subtle snow upon the air. 
 
 * * * 
 
 — Charles Warren Stoddard. 
 
PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS 
 
 Along the eastern shore of the bay lie Berkeley, Oakland 
 and Alameda, with San Lorenzo, San Leandro and Haywards 
 (once parts of great Spanish ranches) stretching along towards the 
 south, a little way back from the bay. Near the southern end are 
 San Jose and Santa Clara in the beautiful Santa Clara valley, a the 
 garden and orchard of San Francisco. ” A drive through the great 
 orchards in blossom week is a drive through fairyland. 
 
 A break in the Coast range forms the Golden Gate; straits 
 about five miles long and averaging one and three-quarters miles 
 in width, which conned: the bay with the ocean. At the narrow- 
 est part, between Fort Point and Lime Point, it is only one mile 
 wide. The name, Golden Gate, first appears in the Geograph- 
 ical Memoir and relative map, published by Fremont in 1848, so 
 it is supposed that it was bestowed by him. There has been some 
 discussion as to the significance of the name. An entrance to the 
 land of gold is the first thought that springs to mind, but the 
 name was given before the richness of Marshall’s discovery was 
 known. Some have supposed that the hillside slopes, golden with 
 poppies, suggested the name. The general opinion has been that 
 Fremont meant the name to signify the gateway to a rich and 
 fertile country; but one who has once seen a superb California 
 sunset through the Gate-the sun sinking into the ocean diredly 
 opposite its opening, and gilding the whole passage with heavenly 
 light— can scarcely fail to believe that to Fremont, too, was vouch- 
 safed that vision, and that such a sight inspired the name. 
 
 In common with other cities, San Francisco has undergone 
 great physical changes in the course of expansion; in her case, 
 to an even greater extent than is usual. Hills and valleys have 
 disappeared, lagoons and swamps and streams have been drained 
 and filled, and another generation will find it difficult, if not im- 
 e, to trace out the old 
 features. Even now, in the 
 number of her hills, San 
 Francisco can outdo Rome, 
 and there were many more at 
 the beginning of her growth. 
 
 Being mostly of sand, their 
 removal was not too difficult 
 
 Sunset Through the Golden Gate. 
 
SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 and, before the cable car was 
 invented to solve the prob- 
 lem of transportation over 
 them, they had to be removed 
 to enable the city to expand. 
 The principal elevations re- 
 main, however, and are known 
 to-day by the names which 
 were early given them. Hills 
 presuppose valleys. Several 
 are mentioned in the diaries of early days whose names are now 
 seldom heard. 
 
 The water-front has, perhaps, undergone the greatest change 
 of all. Yerba Buena (or Loma Alta) cove was an indentation 
 between Rincon Point on the south and Clark’s Point on the 
 north. The latter was at about the present corner of Broadway 
 and Battery streets. The cove extended inland to Montgomery 
 street, between Jackson and Washington. From there to the 
 present water-front is all made land. The Ferry building is about 
 in the middle of the cove. The water came within two blocks 
 of the Palace Hotel. The phrase, “when the water came up to 
 Montgomery street,” denotes a certain era in the history of the 
 town. The filling in of the water-front began very soon after 
 the discovery of gold in 1848, and in the filling a number of 
 abandoned ships were enclosed. Hundreds of men risked their 
 lives in old, unseaworthy craft to get here. The ships were not 
 fit to make the return voyage. Others of a better class were de- 
 serted, their crews rushing off to the mines. No one could be 
 hired to take them back to the eastern coast. Many of these 
 were beached, used for a while for different purposes, and when 
 the filling in began were soon fast among the piles. The “Eu- 
 phemia” was purchased by the Ayuntamiento, or town council, 
 for a prison. Others were used for warehouses. Some were con- 
 verted into hotels or saloons. The “Niantic” was on the lot now 
 the southwest corner of Clay and Sansome streets. Piles were 
 driven on each side to steady her, and she was then used for a store- 
 house. After a time it was filled in around her. It was no unusual 
 sight in the early days to see a great hull between two buildings. 
 
PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS 
 
 One of the fires of 1851 destroyed all of the “Niantic” above 
 ground. Soon after, a hotel-The Niantic House-was built on 
 the old hulk as foundation. In 1872 it was torn down to make 
 room for improvements and, in excavating, the workmen found 
 the bottom of the ship’s hold filled with dirt and, buried in the 
 dirt, several packages of merchandise and a case of champagne. 
 So recently as the early nineteen hundreds, a portion of this hull 
 was disclosed in making way for some new buildings. In O&ober, 
 191 1, a hull was unearthed near the corner of Clay and Battery 
 streets. It was built of tremendously heavy oak and sheathed 
 with copper. At first it was concluded to be an old Spanish war- 
 ship of the time before the Gringo came but, all the warships 
 known to have visited the coast being accounted for, it was con- 
 cluded to be a whaler, built in an unusually substantial manner 
 for ramming ice. 
 
 Very soon after the filling in of the water lots began, wharves 
 were extended into deep water. In 1849 Broadway wharf was 
 construded, two hundred and fifty feet in length, and by the end 
 of the same year one was run out from Montgomery street, on 
 a line with Commercial, eight hundred feet. This was known 
 as Long Wharf. Life on Commercial street and on the wharf 
 was full of curious sights. All sorts of people crowded there. 
 Auction shops, old clothes stores, saloons and gambling houses 
 lined the street on both sides. 
 
 The wharves proved good investments, so others soon fol- 
 lowed, and before two years were over there were more than six 
 thousand feet of wharves, costing over a million dollars. 
 
 In 1850, Henry Meiggs became a prominent citizen of San 
 Francisco. He had a sawmill at North Beach. He became con- 
 vinced that the growth of the city must be towards the north. 
 Millions had been made by 
 the filling in of the water lots 
 at Yerba Buena cove, and he 
 thought he could do the same 
 thing at North Beach. He 
 bought largely, persuaded his 
 friends to buy, and then 
 built a wharf two thousand 
 
 [41] 
 
SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 feet in length, known as 
 Meiggs’ wharf. Some years 
 later at the beach end of this 
 wharf was an old saloon with 
 which was connected a mu- 
 seum and menagerie. They 
 had many visitors, particu- 
 larly country people who were 
 looking for interesting sights 
 Meiggs’ Wharf, North Beach. of the city. The museum 
 
 contained many curious and rare objects, some of them of con- 
 siderable value. Apparently it was never cleaned. Undisturbed 
 cobwebs festooned the walls and the place acquired the sobriquet 
 of the “Cobweb Museum.” 
 
 Meiggs filled in lots, graded some streets and did much for 
 the improvement of that end of the town. It all took more money 
 than he could spare. He was popular and was able to borrow 
 right and left, but the settling of Mexican land titles directed the 
 growth of the town south instead of north, and Meiggs was not 
 able to meet his indebtedness. He forged warrants and finally, 
 the coils tightening around him, he took refuge in flight. He 
 engaged a brig, took his family and brother with him and, telling 
 his friends he was going to sail on the bay, sailed through the 
 Golden Gate. The next day it was found that he had failed for 
 $ 800,000. Tremendous excitement followed, but he was out of 
 reach. He went to Chile and Peru and constructed railroads for 
 both countries, to the satisfaction of both governments. He be- 
 came a respected citizen there, but he longed to pay his debts, 
 and to return to San Francisco if he could be exempt from trial. 
 Though the California Legislature passed bills allowing him to 
 do so, they were unconstitutional, and he died in Peru in 1877. 
 
 In the Sixties, the Oakland railroad wharf was constructed, 
 three thousand six hundred feet long, which made regular ferry 
 service possible instead of being obliged to depend upon tides. 
 
 Saint Ann’s Valley, one of the valleys sometimes mentioned 
 in the old books, lay between the southern end of Powell street 
 and the Mission, and was traversed by one of the regular routes 
 to the Mission. A building, called Saint Ann’s, before the fire 
 
PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS 
 
 marked the old entrance to the valley. Happy Valley lay between 
 the base of the California Street Hill and Rincon Hill, extending 
 towards Twin Peaks. Market street ran through the length of 
 its shifting sand dunes. Just south lay Pleasant Valley. NoeVal- 
 ley was southwest of the Mission, in a plot granted by Governor 
 Pio Pico in 1845 to Jose de Jesus Noe. The burial vault of the 
 Noe family is in the old Mission church, marked by a slab in 
 the floor. Eureka Valley lay west of Noe Valley, between the 
 present Twenty-first street and Twin Peaks. Hayes Valley was 
 a fertile spot surrounded by sand-hills, laid out extensively in 
 truck gardens. Colonel Thomas Hayes, the owner, lived during 
 the Fifties at the opening of the valley on what is now the 
 block bounded by Van Ness avenue, Franklin, Hayes and Fell 
 streets. Near him lived James Van Ness, author of the Van Ness 
 ordinance which settled the title of outside lands, later mayor 
 of the city. Colonel Hayes had a beautiful garden, covering a 
 block of ground about his home. He was very hospitable, and 
 entertained twenty or thirty gentlemen at luncheon every Sunday. 
 His over-generosity in endorsing paper for his friends proved 
 his financial ruin, and in 1859 his property was divided into 
 lots and sold at au&ion. 
 
 Three lagoons, within the early boundaries of the city, are 
 no more to be found. At the time the Mission was established 
 there was one near the spot seleded. Several small streams flowed 
 into it and one from it southeast to the bay. Washerwoman's 
 lagoon was a small lake south of Black Point and west of what 
 is now Larkin street. As water cost not less than a bit a bucket, 
 before the flume of 1858 brought water from Lobos Creek and 
 Mountain Lake into town, not much washing was done at home. 
 Indian women, and later Chinese, used this fresh water pond for 
 a giant washtub, and thus it 
 received its name. It is said 
 that the Chinamen had a 
 way of slapping the surface 
 of the water with the clothes, 
 which made a great noise that 
 could be heard at a consider- 
 able distance. There was a 
 
 [43] 
 
 Life On Long Wharf, 1852 (page 41) 
 
SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 lagoon covering several acres, with its center near the interse&ion 
 of Jackson and Montgomery streets. It was fed by water from 
 a ravine which ran down Sacramento street. Near the southwest 
 corner of Sacramento and Montgomery streets stood an Indian 
 sweat house, or temescal, built near the lagoon so that the Indi- 
 ans, after their steaming, could plunge into the cold water. This 
 temescal stood until 1842. The lagoon was connected with the 
 bay by a small stream which overflowed at high tide. As much 
 of the settled portion of the town was south of this stream and 
 lagoon, to get to Clark’s Point people had to cross the creek the 
 best way they could, by wading or jumping. When Captain 
 Hinckley was Alcalde he had a little bridge built. It was a great 
 convenience, but even more an object of curiosity as a great public 
 improvement. People came from far and near to see it, espe- 
 cially the native Californians, who came from the Mission and 
 elsewhere with their wives and children to wonder at it. 
 
 Near the corner of Mission and Seventh streets was a swamp 
 which extended towards Mission cove. This likewise has been 
 drained and filled, but the made ground at the time of the earth- 
 quake caused some trouble near the present Post Office. 
 
 Telegraph Hill received its name from its early use as a 
 signal station, to inform the people in the town when a ship was 
 coming in. The matchless view from its summit made it a 
 favorite obje&ive point for a walk when the town was clustered 
 near its base. The north and east sides were early blasted away, 
 and ships (unloading their merchandise below) carried away the 
 debris as ballast. Small cottages climbed the sides as the years 
 went by, their gardens almost perpendicular behind them. Stair- 
 ways led up and down to the houses, with little bridges here and 
 there to span the gullies. In T 'he Secret of Telegraph Hill , one of 
 
 Bret Harte’s short stories, 
 the scene is laid on Tele- 
 graph Hill in those days. 
 With its incomparable view, 
 it should have been terraced 
 and made a pleasure garden. 
 The slopes and base are now 
 a part of the Italian quarter. 
 
 Early Signal Station on Telegraph Hill. 
 
Warner’s Cobweb Museum 
 Which, with His Menagerie, was 
 On North Beach at the 
 Southern End of Meiggs’ Wharf. 
 Cobwebs Hung Like 
 Clouds From the Ceiling 
 and Veiled Pictures 
 and Frames. 
 
North Beach . 
 
 ( After Spenser) . 
 
 Lo ! where the castle of bold Pfeiffer throws 
 Its sullen shadow on the rolling tide— 
 
 No more the home where joy and wealth repose , 
 
 But now where wassailers in cells abide ; 
 
 See yon long quay that stretches far and wide , 
 
 Well known to citizens as wharf of Meiggs ; 
 
 There each sweet Sabbath walks in maiden pride 
 The pensive Margaret and brave Pat , whose legs 
 Encased in broadcloth oft keep time with Peg's. 
 
 * * * 
 
 Hard by there stands an ancient hostelrie , 
 
 And at its side a garden , where the bear , 
 
 The stealthy catamount , and coon agree 
 To work deceit on all who gather there ; 
 
 And when Augusta— that unconscious fair— 
 
 With nuts and apples plieth bruin free , 
 
 Lo ! the green parrot claweth her back hair 
 And the gray monkey grabbeth fruits that she 
 On her gay bonnet wears, and laugheth loud in glee 
 
 — Bret Harte. 
 
PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS 
 
 During the fire many Italians in the vicinity saved their little 
 homes by covering the roofs with blankets wet with the home- 
 made wine stored in their cellars. Continual blasting has made 
 the hill still more shabby than it need be. 
 
 “O, Tely graft Hill, she sits proud as a queen. 
 
 And th’ docks lie below in th’ glare. 
 
 And th’ bay runs beyant her all purple and green 
 Wid th’ gingerbread island out there. 
 
 And th’ ferryboats toot at owld Telygraft Hill, 
 
 And th’ Hill it don’t care if they do. 
 
 While th’ Bradys and Caseys a v Telygraft Hill 
 Joost sit there enj’yin’ th’ view. 
 
 For th’ Irish they live on th’ top av it. 
 
 And th’ Dagoes they live on th’ base av it. 
 
 And th’ goats and th’ chicks and th’ brickbats and shticks 
 Is joombled all over th’ face av it, 
 
 Av Telygraft Hill, Telygraft Hill, 
 
 Crazy owld, daisy owld Telygraft Hill !” — Wallace Irwin. 
 
 But Telegraph Hill-so scarred and abused, its splendid site 
 unheeded, save by the few who have been struggling for its im- 
 provement-is likely to come into its own. A glorious dream, 
 which seems well on the way towards realization, is to crown the 
 summit of the hill with a reproduction in white marble of the 
 Parthenon in the days of its glory. The Greeks of San Fran- 
 cisco, led by the Grecian Consul, are planning this illustrious 
 memorial for the Exposition of 1915. It will add the crowning 
 beauty to the scene which will greet the voyager as he enters 
 the bay. Height after height when passed will be seen to lift 
 towards heaven a splendid structure, but the city will cc proudly 
 wear the Parthenon as the best gem upon her zone.” 
 
 From Russian Hill the views are as magnificent as from 
 Telegraph Hill, and it is somewhat more accessible. It received 
 its name from the Russian 
 burial ground which was on 
 its slopes during the days of 
 the Hudson's Bay agency in 
 San Francisco. The small 
 cluster of houses which sur- 
 mount it was saved during 
 the fire by individual effort. 
 
 [45] 
 
SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 James Hopper, in his graphic 
 story of the days of the fire, 
 tells of standing on the top 
 of Russian Hill at the end 
 of the third day and thinking 
 he heard strains of music. 
 “It was no hallucination,’’ he 
 wrote. “Upon the top of the 
 Jones Street hill, in the mid- 
 dle of the street, the only 
 thing standing in that direction for miles was a piano. A man 
 was playing upon it. I could see his hands rising and falling, his 
 body swaying. In the wind his long, black hair and loosened tie 
 streamed. The wind bore the sounds away from me, but in a lull 
 I finally heard the music. It was Saint Saens’s c Danse Macabre/ 
 the death dance. His hands beat up and down, his body swayed, 
 his hair streamed, and from the crest down over the devastated 
 city poured, like a cascade, the notes with their sound of shaken 
 dry bones.” 
 
 Lone Mountain, the conical hill surmounted by a cross, 
 rising abruptly from the western part of the city; Twin Peaks, 
 at the head of Market street; Buena Vista Hill; Bernal Heights; 
 Strawberry Hill in the Park; Nob Hill; Mount Parnassus-all 
 have kept their early contours; but Rincon Hill, how fallen from 
 its great estate! First the favorite picnic grounds of Yerba Buena 
 days, then a fashionable residence district where trees waved and 
 gardens surrounded the homes of wealth, then cut and gashed 
 and graded until now one can scarcely define its boundaries; and 
 there 1 are none so poor to do it reverence. Here in the late Sev- 
 enties, after its glory had departed, Charles Warren Stoddard 
 “set up his tabernacle in the ruins of a house, which even then 
 ‘stood upon the order of its going.’” Here, one day, to “the 
 modest side door which had become the front door because the 
 rest of the building was gone,” came “a lean, lithe stranger. I 
 knew him for a poet by his unshorn locks, and his luminous 
 eyes, the pallor of his face, and his exquisitely sensitive hands.” 
 The “crumbling estate,” the “sighing cypresses” and the “shaky 
 stairway” were to him singularly appealing, “for he was a poet and 
 
 [4«i 
 
 Russian Hill and the Hills Across the Bay. 
 
PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS 
 
 a romancer and his name was Robert Louis Stevenson.” Every- 
 one knows that it was through his talks with Stoddard in that 
 eyrie on Rincon Hill that Stevenson first fell under the spell of 
 the islands of the Pacific. In The IVrecker , Stevenson has de- 
 scribed that “place of precarious, sandy cliffs, deep, sandy cut- 
 tings, solitary ancient houses, and the butt-ends of streets.” The 
 Second Street gash, which ruined the hill, was a real estate spec- 
 ulation which benefited nobody. Stoddard tells of a bridge,' “an 
 agony of wood and iron,” which leaped the chasm. Gertrude 
 Atherton has used the hill and South Park as a setting for her 
 story, The Californians . 
 
 The first survey of Yerba Buena by Jean Vioget included 
 only twenty-four blocks and named no streets. In 1846 Jasper 
 O'Farrell, a civil engineer, was appointed to make a second sur- 
 vey of the town and enlarge its boundaries. His map included 
 Post, Leavenworth and Francisco streets and, in the southern 
 part of the town, four blocks fronting on Fourth street and also 
 eleven on Second street. It was thought advisable to change the 
 acute and obtuse angles of Vioget’s lots by making the streets 
 cross each other at right angles. This transferred the situation 
 of all the lots, and was afterwards called “O’Farrell’s Swing” of 
 the city. The corner of Kearny and Washington streets was the 
 pivot of the swing. The new maps gave to the streets their pres- 
 ent names-Montgomery, Dupont and Stockton, to remind the 
 people of the part of the navy in the foundation of their city; 
 Kearny, Mason, Fremont and Taylor, to commemorate the 
 army. To the other streets were given the names of early citi- 
 zens— Howard, Brannan, Bryant, Sutter, Folsom, Hyde, Jones, 
 Harrison, Leavenworth, Leidesdorff. Larkin, the American con- 
 sul at Monterey, was also remembered, as was General Vallejo, 
 who was friendly to the Am- 
 ericans. Market street was 
 first marked out by O’Far- 
 rell, who fully understood 
 the importance of making 
 the main street in the south- 
 ern part of the town conform 
 in direction with the route 
 
 The Second Street Cut. which Spoiled Rincon Hill. 
 
SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 usually taken from Yerba 
 Buena to the Mission. This 
 street was made later by the 
 town council, of which James 
 Van Ness was a member. It 
 also laid out and named Van 
 Ness avenue for him. O’Far- 
 rell’s name was given to a 
 street, and the first mayor 
 (JohnW. Geary) stood spon- 
 sor for another. As the town expanded its borders the new streets 
 were given the names of local men of importance. Broderick, 
 Hayes, Haight, McAllister were thus remembered. The names 
 of some streets have a geographical significance. Laguna led 
 towards the old Washerwoman’s lagoon; Devisadero once marked 
 the division between the city limits and outside lands. 
 
 The so-called wagon road, cut through chaparral and scrub 
 oak in 1838 from Yerba Buena to the Mission, although it al- 
 lowed riders to pass without danger of being scraped off their 
 horses, afforded little amelioration of the way underfoot. It was 
 through deep sand and by a circuitous route and, though differ- 
 ent paths were sought out as the years went by, all must skirt 
 the big morass, which lengthened the distance considerably. The 
 journey was such an undertaking that it cost $ 1 5 or $2C to move 
 a load of hay from the Mission to the city. In 1849 Governor 
 Burnett paid the owner of a spring wagon $ 150 to move his fam- 
 ily from the city to San Jose, bad roads to the Mission compel- 
 ling this excessive cost. In 1850 Charles Wilson proposed to 
 build at his own expense a plank road from the city to the 
 Mission, provided he were allowed to colled tolls and to have 
 exclusive right of way. His proposition was at first denied, but 
 a bill which enabled him to proceed finally passed the board of 
 Aldermen over the Alcalde’s veto. He had intended to build 
 a bridge several hundred feet long over the quagmire before 
 mentioned but, after driving two twenty-foot piles (one on top of 
 the other) out of sight with two blows of the pile-driver, that 
 projed had to be abandoned. Finally the road was laid over a 
 crib of logs which was built on a platform laid over the bog. This 
 
 [48] 
 
 Washerwoman’ s Lagoon (page 43). 
 
PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS 
 
 at first was perfectly level, but it shook when any one drove or 
 rode over it, and finally sank in the center at least five feet. The 
 road ran by Kearny, Third and Mission streets, from California 
 street to Fifteenth, three and three-quarters miles. Mission street 
 was preferred to Market because there was a high sand-hill on 
 Market, between Second and Fifth. A deep cut was made through 
 sand-hills on Kearny street for the passage of this road. One, at 
 Post street, could not be driven around, and here the toll-gate 
 was placed. The cost of building this road was about $30,000 a 
 mile; the investment paid nearly eight per cent, a month. 
 
 As the city grew there was talk of opening a parallel free 
 road to the Mission, but the Plank Road Company obtained 
 another franchise for a road on Folsom street. This ran for half 
 a mile across swamps, between Third and Eighth streets, and 
 there was great difficulty in filling the swamps. A high tide 
 in 1854 overflowed the road between Fourth and Fifth streets 
 and floated off much of the planking. The two roads, between 
 1853 and 1858, when they reverted to the city and became free, 
 paid three per cent, a month net on the capital invested. 
 
 In 1854 Powell street was graded from Clay to North Beach; 
 also Pacific street, where a deep cut was made through a rocky 
 hill between Montgomery and Sansome streets. Omnibuses, 
 which had been instituted in 1852, began to run regularly every 
 half hour between North Beach and South Park. In 1 863 omni- 
 buses were superseded by horse-cars, operated by the Omnibus 
 Street Railroad Company. In i860 a steam railroad was con- 
 structed, from where Lotta’s Fountain now stands, through 
 Market and Valencia streets, which gave easy access to Hayes 
 Valley and the Mission. The North Beach and Mission Street 
 Railway and the Central were in operation in 1 863. In 1 866 the 
 Sutter Street road and the 
 Bay View road were com- 
 pleted. For all these various 
 lines the streets were graded, 
 sand-hills removed and de- 
 pressions filled, so that hardly 
 any portion of the city within 
 its early boundaries remained 
 
 [49] 
 
 Orphan Asylum, and St. Patrick’s Church, 1856. 
 Palace Hotel Site, Rincon Hill Beyond. 
 
SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 'at the old levels; but, as the city expanded, the hills grew steeper 
 towards the west and the problem of transportation became a 
 serious one. The invention of the cable car by A. S. Hallidie, 
 of San Francisco, solved the problem and, from 1873 when the 
 Clay Street line proved itself a success, steep hills were no barrier 
 to the city’s growth. 
 
 It is a great pity that in laying out the city some of the 
 roads had not been made to wind around the steep hills, con- 
 forming to their contour, instead of going uncompromisingly 
 over or through and cutting and slashing so ruthlessly, as has 
 been done; sometimes laying out streets so steep that they be- 
 came grass grown for want of travel, at other times spoiling sec- 
 tions by disfiguring cuts in order that streets may be level. 
 Realizing the need of a comprehensive plan which should cor- 
 rect as far as possible these mistakes and provide for the recon- 
 struction and further development of the city along more artistic 
 (as well as more convenient) lines, in 1904 a number of earnest 
 citizens banded themselves together as “An Association for the 
 Improvement and Adornment of San Francisco.” They invited 
 Daniel H. Burnham, of Chicago, who had designed the beautiful 
 White City of the Chicago World’s Fair, to come to San Francisco 
 and show us how a city could attain to the beauty which an incom- 
 parable location had made her birthright. Mr. Burnham, with 
 his assistants, worked for months in a bungalow on Twin Peaks, 
 the city spread out like a map before them. After much study 
 a plan was devised which supplemented our checker-board streets 
 by diagonal avenues making short cuts between centers of in- 
 terest; which gave by winding roadways easy access to steep hills; 
 which provided a civic center for public buildings; which laid 
 out boulevards surrounding the city and conne&ing Golden Gate 
 
 Park, the Presidio and Twin 
 Peaks. It was a beautiful 
 dream, and would also have 
 made for convenience of all 
 traffic if it could have been 
 carried out. Our minds were 
 full of it when the fire came 
 and made its clean sweep. 
 
 [s°] 
 
 Market Street, 1865, Looking Towards Twin Peaks. 
 
After the Fire. 
 
 Portico of Home of A. N. Towne 
 On Nob Hill. (See page 69). 
 Photograph by R. J. Waters. 
 
San Francisco . 
 
 * * * 
 
 Gray wind-blown ashes , broken, toppling wall 
 
 And ruined hearth— are these thy funeral pyre ? 
 Black desolation covering as a pall— 
 
 Is this the end , my love and my desire? 
 
 Nay ; strong , undaunted , thoughtless of despair. 
 
 The Will that builded thee shall build again. 
 And all thy broken promise spring more fair , 
 
 Thou mighty mother of as mighty men! 
 
 Thou wilt arise invincible, supreme! 
 
 The earth to voice thy glory never tire. 
 
 And song, unborn, shall chant no nobler theme. 
 Proud city of my love and my desire! 
 
 But I— shall see thee ever as of old! 
 
 Thy wraith of pearl, wall, minaret, and spire. 
 Framed in the mists that veil thy Gate of Gold, 
 Lost city of my love and my desire ! 
 
 —In a Coolbrith. 
 
PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS 
 
 Then seemed the great opportunity for carrying out the plan, or 
 some modification of it at least. But with the necessity laid upon 
 the property owners to rebuild as soon as possible, the alterations 
 did not seem of such vital importance. The reduction of size of 
 many lots under the Burnham plan, the necessary purchases of 
 land by the city and the time required in rearranging titles seemed 
 prohibitive in the dire necessity of the times; so the old uncom- 
 promising lines were followed and the streets remained as before. 
 Though as a whole the plan will not be carried out, its influence 
 will be felt as the city develops. The civic center, as planned by 
 the present city administration in conjunction with the Exposi- 
 tion committee, and the water-front boulevard, which is a part 
 of the Exposition design, express two of its important features. 
 
 The ordinance authorizing the bond issue for the new City 
 Hall provided also for the purchase of adjacent lands required 
 for other public buildings, the whole when completed to form a 
 civic center of permanent beauty and dignity. The ordinance 
 covered the area bounded by Market street. Golden Gate avenue, 
 Van Ness avenue and Hayes street; but, on account of the great 
 expense involved in the purchase of improved property, it is 
 probable the plot will be limited to the old City Hall site, the 
 Mechanics’ Pavilion property, and the two adjacent blocks north, 
 facing Larkin street, with Marshall Square widened one hundred 
 feet on each side. This provides the requisite space for a mag- 
 nificent group of buildings arranged around a central plaza cover- 
 ing two city blocks. Trees, shrubs, grass and flowers will enhance 
 the architectural effeCts while, through the approaches from Mar- 
 ket street and Van Ness avenue, vistas of the fine fa£ades will be 
 afforded. This group will probably comprise, besides the City 
 Hall, an Auditorium, a Public Library, an Art Museum, an 
 Opera House and perhaps 
 a State Building. The Expo- 
 sition Committee proposes to 
 ereCt a million-dollar Audi- 
 torium, which will remain as 
 a permanent memorial of the 
 great Panama-Pacific Inter- 
 national Exposition. 
 
 d 
 
 New City Hall. Courtesy of the Architects, 
 Bakewell & Brown. 
 
The Ferry Tower, as We See It from the Ferry Boats. 
 
 Chapter Three • Ferry Building • Water Front 
 
 T he main gateway to San Francisco is the impressive 
 Ferry Building. Those who come by sea are landed 
 at the near-by docks. This is fortunate-the only 
 other entrance (the Southern Pacific station at Third 
 and Townsend streets) being quite unworthy of a city 
 of this size and importance. Terminal facilities, with a handsome 
 station building in a more convenient portion of the city, are a 
 part of the Southern Pacific Company’s plans for future devel- 
 opment. The terminus of most overland trains, those of the 
 Shasta Route and some of the Los Angeles trains, is the eastern 
 side of the bay, and passengers are transferred by ferry to San 
 Francisco. Only the Coast Line of the Southern Pacific, a beau- 
 tiful scenic route to Los Angeles, and suburban trains down the 
 peninsula leave from the station at Third and Townsend streets. 
 
 The Ferry Building was eredted by the State Board of 
 Harbor Commissioners in 1 896, at a cost of over $1,000,000. It 
 is built of Colusa sandstone, with marble lavishly used for wain- 
 scots, partitions, et cetera. It has a frontage of 659 feet, a 
 depth of 156 feet and is surmounted in the center by a graceful 
 clock tower, 32 feet square and 240 feet high. The dial is 22 
 feet in diameter, with numerals 3 feet in length. The arcaded 
 front on the ground floor leads to the waiting rooms of the dif- 
 ferent ferry lines. North of the central tower are the Key Route, 
 Santa Fe, Western Pacific, Sausalito and Tiburon lines. The 
 Key Route connects with local eledtric trains on the other side 
 of the bay for Oakland, Berkeley and Piedmont. The Santa Fe 
 ferry goes to Point Richmond to conned! with overland trains. 
 The Western Pacific is an overland route, while Sausalito and 
 
 [ 5 2 1 
 
FERRY BUILDING • WATER FRONT 
 
 Tiburon ferries conned with the Northwestern-Pacific lines. By 
 the Sausalito line Mill Valley, Mount Tamalpais, San Anselmo 
 and San Rafael are reached. 
 
 South of the central tower are the Southern Pacific ferries 
 to Oakland, Alameda, Berkeley and overland. The Creek Route 
 ferry boat for the foot of Broadway, Oakland, leaves hourly from 
 a dock just south of the Southern Pacific slips. There are also 
 public telephone booths, telegraph and express offices, places 
 for checking hand luggage, news, candy and flower stands. The 
 baggage room of the Southern Pacific is at the extreme south of 
 the building. Near by is a branch postoffice. 
 
 On the second floor is a grand nave, the full length of the 
 building. Here large receptions have been held, and flower shows 
 of great beauty and interest. South and north of the main stair- 
 ways, up another short flight, are the exhibits of the State Devel- 
 opment Board and the State Mining Bureau, both well worth a 
 visit. They are open from io a. m. to 5 p. m. There are notable 
 exhibitions of all the State produds and extensive colledions of 
 minerals, relief maps, an information desk, bulletins and other 
 printed matter; and ledures, with stereopticon views, are given 
 every afternoon from 2 to 4. Admission to all is free, and lit- 
 erature is freely distributed. Between the two stairways is the 
 Ladies’ Waiting Room. 
 
 The offices of the Harbor Commissioners open from the 
 grand nave, also those of the State Horticultural Commissioner 
 and of the State Railroad Commissioners. From this floor are 
 the entrances to the upper decks of the ferry boats. 
 
 North and south of the Ferry Building are the steamship 
 docks— miles of concrete seawall, with wharves stretching out into 
 the bay; miles of enchantment to the stroller cc where the world- 
 end steamers wait.’ ’ H ow dif- 
 ficult in the old school-room, 
 far from the sea, to fix in our 
 minds the C< chief produds” 
 of a country! What bug- 
 bears they were in our old 
 geography lessons! Here, at 
 our very feet great ships are 
 
 The Ferry Building From the Emharcadero. 
 
SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 pouring them out or are load- 
 ing with our own productions 
 for far-off lands. Here is ge- 
 ography made alive. Here 
 are copra and cocoanuts and 
 bananas from the South seas; 
 here are tea and silks from 
 the Orient; here is coffee 
 from Costa Rica and Brazil; 
 coal from Australia; lumber 
 from the northern ports; perhaps a rare whaler from the Arctic 
 seas. Here we “touch Asia, the Cape of Good Hope and the 
 Happy Islands.” Further on, ships are loading with our own 
 wheat or barley, with canned fruit or salmon for other ports. 
 That ship, with yellow-brown stacks banded with red, white and 
 blue, is a United States transport, taking on army stores for 
 the Philippines. This little schooner is being fitted to search 
 for the Cocos Island treasure. From here Stevenson set sail for 
 the South Seas, and Jack London began his cruise of the Snark. 
 Here are Commerce and Adventure side by side. 
 
 What variety of craft-the big ocean liners, the coast steamers 
 (somewhat smaller) for Los Angeles, Portland or Seattle, the odd- 
 looking, stern-wheel river steamers for Stockton or Sacramento, 
 the trim boats of the Monticello line for Vallejo and Mare Is- 
 land, schooners with four, five or six masts, and small sloops. 
 Out in the bay a grim, gray warship is anchored-perhaps more 
 than one, our own or foreign. Sometimes a Chinese junk, sailing 
 to us from another century, lies alongside the last creation of the 
 shipbuilders* art. The huge, white Southern Pacific ferry boats 
 are plying back and forth, and the smaller and swifter yellow boats 
 of the Key Route. Government naphtha launches dart out from 
 the island opposite, fussy little tugs are pushing their ponderous 
 charges or looking for a job, while in the distance (if it is the 
 right time of the tide) are seen the picturesque lateen sails of the 
 fishing boats going out or coming in the Golden Gate. From 
 Fisherman’s Wharf on North Beach, where the Greek and Ne- 
 apolitan fishermen foregather, around to the China Basin, all is 
 fascinating to a lover of the sea. 
 
 [54] 
 
FERRY BUILDING • WATER FRONT 
 
 Ernest Peixotto says, “If you want to behold a bit of the 
 Bay of Naples, go some misty morning to Fisherman’s Wharf.” 
 Go any time of day and you will be rewarded. If the fleet is out, 
 you will find some of the fishermen left behind to mend their 
 nets, festooning them along the wharf to dry, or busy about 
 their boats-always pi&uresque— their love of color displayed in 
 bright shirts, in red and blue Tams, or in their gay little boats, 
 painted in rainbow colors, bright blue, yellow, green or striped. 
 And if you have happened upon just the right time to see the 
 fleet, the sight is unforgetable-dozens of these bright boats with 
 their tawny, three-cornered sails like a flock of great, yellow 
 butterflies as they glide over the water. To reach Fisherman’s 
 Wharf, take the Powell Street car marked North Beach and 
 walk a couple of blocks beyond the end of the car line. 
 
 Away around at the other end of the water front, in South 
 San Francisco (and reached only by water), is Hunter’s Point 
 Dry Dock, the largest in America. Half way between the dry 
 dock and the Ferry Building is the Union Iron Works, founded 
 in 1849 by James and Peter Donahue. In 1850 their shops were 
 situated on First street between Market and Mission, nearly op- 
 posite where the commemorative Donahue fountain now stands. 
 The tide came up under the workshops on the east side of First 
 street. The plant at first consisted only of a small furnace with 
 a blast produced by blacksmiths’ bellows, the whole not even 
 protected by covering from the weather. From this small begin- 
 ning was developed the great establishment which can turn out 
 any craft from a gasoline launch to a battleship. Here were built 
 the Ohio of the United States navy, which was launched by 
 President McKinley in 1901, and the Oregon, famed for that 
 wonderful trip around the Horn during the Spanish war, and 
 which we hope will lead the 
 fleet through the Panama 
 Canal in 1915. The Union 
 Iron Works may be reached 
 by the Broadway cars going 
 south on Kearny and Third 
 streets. These cars start from 
 the Ferry Building. 
 
 f55] 
 
 Fisherman’s Wharf When the Fleet Is In. 
 
The First Cable Car. Clay Street. 
 
 Chapter Four • Street Car Systems 
 
 T he first regular transportation afforded the city was 
 by omnibus in 1 852. In 1 860 steam cars from Lotta’s 
 fountain to the Mission offered swifter means of travel 
 between those two points, giving access to Hayes Val- 
 ley and The Willows. In 1863 horse cars were sub- 
 stituted for omnibuses and operated by the Omnibus Street 
 Railroad Company. From time to time franchises were granted 
 to other companies. Lines were extended along streets which 
 were fairly level and where cuts could be made; but it was not 
 until the invention of the cable car by A. S. Hallidie, of San 
 Francisco, assisted by Joseph Britton and William Eppenheimer, 
 that street cars could be operated on the steep grades. In 1873 a 
 trial cable was laid on Clay street, between Kearny and Jones. 
 This was the first cable street railway in the world. Proving suc- 
 cessful, the line was extended on Clay street, and cable cars were 
 soon put in operation on other hilly streets. In the early Nine- 
 ties ele&ricity was applied to the level roads and new eledxic 
 lines were built. Roads south of Market street were first elec- 
 trified. In 1902 the United Railroads of San Francisco, incor- 
 porated under the laws of California, acquired the holdings of 
 most of the San Francisco street railroads. The parent company 
 is the United Railways Investment Company of New Jersey. 
 
 Great changes are being discussed; to accommodate the 
 ever-growing traffic, to open up new districts and to provide for 
 rapid transportation to the Exposition grounds in 1915. It is 
 hoped that the municipality and the present street railway in- 
 terests will work in harmony to meet the present and future 
 demands. The city, owning the Geary Street Railway, has an 
 
 [ 5 «] 
 
San Francisco Bay. 
 From a Painting by 
 IV. A. Coulter. 
 
San Francisco— From the Sea. 
 
 * * * 
 
 Wrap her, O Fog! in gown a?id hood 
 Of her Franciscan Brotherhood. 
 
 ■$£ *$£ 
 
 So shall she, cowled, sit and pray 
 Fill morning bears her sins away. 
 
 Then rise, O fleecy Fog, and raise 
 The glory of her coming days ; 
 
 Be as the ; cloud that flecks the seas 
 Above her smoky argosies. 
 
 When forms familiar shall give place 
 To stranger speech and newer face ; 
 When all her throes and anxious fears 
 Lie hushed in the repose of years ; 
 When Art shall raise and Culture lift 
 Fhe sensual joys and meaner thrift. 
 And all fulfilled the vision, we 
 Who watch and wait shall never see— 
 Who, in the morning of her race. 
 Foiled fair or meanly in our place— 
 But, yielding to the common lot. 
 
 Lie u?irecorded and forgot. 
 
 — Bret Harte. 
 
STREET CAR SYSTEMS 
 
 opportunity to experiment with a municipally concluded road. 
 As franchises expire or arrangements with present interests can 
 be made, the city may find it expedient to take over the operation 
 of all the roads. 
 
 The obstacles offered by the many and abrupt hills of San 
 Francisco have been surmounted by the various street railway 
 lines; it is now proposed to tunnel through the hills, in order to 
 shorten distances and afford quicker service. 
 
 Five tunnels are at present under consideration. The legal 
 difficulties have been overcome by favorable decisions of the State 
 Supreme Court and the necessary funds will be raised by distrid 
 assessment. The Stockton Street tunnel will be the first built. 
 This (conneding as it will the center of the city with North 
 Beach by a few minutes’ walk or ride) will enhance the value of 
 North Beach property and establish a dired line from the heart 
 of the hotel distrid to the Exposition grounds at Harbor View. 
 A proposed route is from Stockton and Market streets along 
 Stockton to Columbus (formerly Montgomery) avenue, along 
 Columbus avenue to North Point and from North Point to the 
 main entrance of the Exposition, a seven minutes’ ride from the 
 shopping center. Ferry boats from North Beach to Marin county 
 will bring the latter region into much quicker communication 
 with the city than is at present possible. 
 
 The proposed tunnel on Broadway from Mason to Larkin 
 streets would form a desirable extension of the line through the 
 Stockton Street tunnel and permit Pacific Heights and Harbor 
 View to be reached from down town without much grade. 
 
 A recommendation of Bion Arnold (the noted street-railway 
 expert, who was employed by the city to examine conditions 
 here) is a tunnel under Fort Mason at Beach street, to enable 
 freight for the Exposition to 
 be carried into the grounds. 
 
 If this tunnel is construded 
 it can be used in connedion 
 with the projeded belt line 
 around the city. 
 
 A tunnel is projeded in 
 the Western Addition for a 
 
 [57] 
 
 g 
 
 I 1 ^ 
 
 -IIJULAA 
 
 
 ■HBMH 
 
 Emporium Building and a Market Street Safety Station. 
 
 iff 
 
SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 dired cross-town line to Har- 
 borView. Marsden Manson, 
 the City Engineer, recom- 
 mends Fillmore street as the 
 route. He also recommends 
 that all the buildings on Fill- 
 more street between Sutter 
 and Bush be set back one 
 hundred feet and that, as the 
 
 Looking Down Market Street. A Safety Station. portal of the tunnel, a build- 
 
 ing a block long be ereded; the first floor to be occupied by 
 markets, the second by an auditorium, and a roof garden above, 
 thus affording a revenue— an ambitious projed, but one which, if 
 carried out, will be a substantial addition to the city. 
 
 A tunnel through Twin Peaks is pradically certain, to ex- 
 tend Market street to the ocean and to open up the territory 
 west of Twin Peaks for homes. It will begin at Haight and 
 Market streets. In connedion with this tunnel there is proposed 
 a subway to the Ferry Building, which would afford a much- 
 needed solution of the difficulties caused by the frequent con- 
 gestion of cars on lower Market street. A subway under lower 
 Mission street and interseding cross-town subways will also 
 undoubtedly be accomplished in time. 
 
 Second-floor exits from the Ferry Building, over the Em- 
 barcadero to Market street, are contemplated, for the handling 
 of ferry-boat crowds with greater ease and dispatch. 
 
 A belt line, starting from the Ferry Building and encircling 
 the city, is another plan of extension. It is also designed to meet 
 the demand for quicker and better transportation down the pen- 
 insula. All of these projeds will probably carried out before 1 91 5. 
 
 Most of the street car lines of the city lead diredly to the 
 Ferry Building at the foot of Market street. The few that do 
 not (with one exception, the Geary street line) transfer their pas- 
 sengers to the ferry lines; so that, conversely, all parts of the 
 city may be easily reached from the ferries. Market street at the 
 ferries may be likened to the handle of a fan, whence radiate to 
 the north, west and south, like the sticks of a fan, the various 
 lines. All these lines but one are a part of the United Railroads 
 
 [58] 
 
STREET CAR SYSTEMS 
 
 system. The Market Street lines pass around the inner or outer 
 loop direCtly in front of the Ferry tower. These go out Market 
 street, all passing the Palace Hotel and the most important bus- 
 iness se&ion, turning to the west and south at various points, and 
 connecting with cross-town lines. It should be noted that all 
 the streets north of Market begin at Market and run to the 
 west or north with Market street as a base, while south of 
 Market the streets are parallel to it or at right angles. 
 
 Just north of the center of the Ferry Building is the Sacra- 
 mento Street line, which goes west on Sacramento street through 
 Chinatown to the western part of the city, returning on Clay 
 street and passing Portsmouth Square. 
 
 The Union Street line also starts near the northern wing of 
 the Ferry Building, going through the Italian quarter to Harbor 
 View and the Presidio. It is not a part of the United Railroads 
 systems, and transfers only with Hyde street, Polk and Fillmore. 
 
 Here also is the Broadway, Kearny and Third Street line, 
 which winds along the base of Telegraph Hill and through the 
 Italian quarter into the northern end of Kearny street, and thence 
 south to the Third and Townsend Street (Southern Pacific) sta- 
 tion. Though the station can thus be reached from the ferries 
 without change, one can go in less time by taking any of the 
 Market Street cars and transferring to this line at Third and 
 Market streets. 
 
 South of the Market Street loop, coming in at right angles 
 to it, are the various lines of the territory south of Market street; 
 the Folsom street, Harrison, Howard, and Mission Street lines, 
 the Bryant and Brannan line, the Guerrero Street and Ingleside 
 lines, and that to the cemeteries. 
 
 A Sight-Seeing car of the United Railroads leaves the loop 
 in front of the Ferry Build- 
 ing twice a day— at io A. m. 
 and at 2:00 p. m. The fare is 
 seventy-five cents for a trip 
 three and one-half hours' 
 long, including many of the 
 interesting sights of the city 
 and admission to the Sutro 
 
 [ 59 ] 
 
 A Sight-Seeing Car at the Ferries. 
 
SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 Baths and Museum. A lecturer accompanies each trip. The 
 United Railroads will also rent sight-seeing cars for trolley parties, 
 to be run over the lines of its system. 
 
 San Francisco is so well covered by the network of lines 
 of the United Railways that, with its liberal system of transfers, 
 almost any part of the city may be easily reached by street 
 car and for a five-cent fare, and long rides taken from the fer- 
 ries to the ocean and suburban districts. The ride to the beach 
 by the Cliff House line on Sutter street affords views of the 
 Golden Gate and its rocky shores which can be obtained in no 
 other way. 
 
 The Parkside line connects with cars marked “20” of the 
 Fourth and Ellis Street line at Lincoln Way (formerly H street) 
 and Twentieth avenue. It runs south on Twentieth avenue to 
 T street and out T street to Thirty-fifth avenue, where transfers 
 are given to the Mission line which extends to the ocean. Both 
 lines afford many glimpses of the surf between the lupine-clothed 
 sand dunes. 
 
 Besides the lines of the United Railroads there are several 
 independent lines. 
 
 The California Street line starts at Market street, one block 
 from the Ferry Building and, passing the edge of Chinatown and 
 the Fairmont Hotel, goes over Nob Hill to the western part of 
 the city. It conne&s only with the Hyde and O’Farrell line 
 and with one at its western terminus going to the beach. 
 
 The Geary Street line, municipally owned, is now newly 
 equipped. It begins at Market and Geary streets and runs west 
 to Golden Gate Park; but will probably soon extend from the 
 ferries to the ocean. 
 
 The Union Street line, which runs from the ferries to the 
 
 Presidio Reservation, trans- 
 fers to Hyde Street, to Polk 
 Street and to the Fillmore 
 Street lines. 
 
 The Hyde Street and 
 O’Farrell line transfers to 
 the California Street and the 
 Union Street lines. 
 
 [ 6 °] 
 
 Land’s End, on Cliff Car Line — Mile Rock Lighthouse. 
 
The Stadium, Golden Gate Park, Where President Taft Broke Ground for the P anama-P acidc 
 1 nternational Exposition. 
 
 Chapter Five • Golden Gate Park 
 
 G olden gate park is one of the glories of San Fran- 
 cisco. It extends from near the center of the city 
 ■ three miles westward to the ocean, with a strip one 
 block wide (called the Panhandle) running from its 
 eastern border one-half mile further into the city. It 
 contains 1013 acres, of which more than 400 are in thorough 
 cultivation, the rest planted with handsome trees, adorned with 
 lakes and laid out with drives, bridle paths and walks. It is one 
 of the great parks of the world, ranking with Central Park of 
 New York, Fairmount of Philadelphia and the Bois de Boulogne 
 of Paris. 
 
 In 1864 the agitation for a large public park began. Squat- 
 ters and claimants from Devisadero street to the ocean were 
 asked to give a portion of the land they claimed in exchange for 
 a clear title from the city to the remainder, the city being the 
 rightful owner to four square leagues of land in the Pueblo of 
 San Francisco. The squatters and claimants agreed upon ten 
 per cent. The land was appraised and an assessment of ten per 
 cent, upon the whole was sufficient to pay for the land taken for 
 park purposes. The Legislature of 1869-70 passed the bill which 
 settled these matters. To Justice Stephen J. Field is mainly due 
 the credit for legislative work which resulted in the creation of 
 Golden Gate Park. Given the land, to create these charming 
 vistas of lawn, trees and shrubbery, these carpets of flowers, and 
 shimmering lakes, all from a waste of shifting sand dunes, was 
 an achievement of note. A fortunate climate, plenty of water, 
 gifts from generous citizens, broad-minded commissioners and a 
 park superintendent of taste and skill have all combined to bring 
 
 [61] 
 
SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 about a result which is a joy to San Franciscans and to the tem- 
 porary dwellers within their gates. Trees have grown with great 
 rapidity to noble size, flowers flourish unchecked by frost, while 
 lawns are green and beautiful throughout the year. No signs, 
 “keep off the grass,” offend the eye and mar the pleasure of 
 those who like to feel the springing turf beneath their feet; 
 yet no more beautiful grass is found anywhere. Children romp 
 unchecked over the lawns, the ball fields scarcely show on their 
 green surface a trace of their daily use, and even the exquisite, 
 velvety surface of the bowling green, as level as a billiard table, 
 is not marred by the sport to which it is dedicated. 
 
 In every way possible this park is made to minister to the 
 health and pleasure of the people. Means are afforded for all 
 sorts of outdoor sports for children, youths and adults, and they 
 are all there making use of them. For the children there are 
 swings and teeters and toboggan slides, rides in the goat-carts or 
 on the donkeys or on the weird animals of the merry-go-round. 
 For the older ones there are baseball fields for different ages, 
 croquet, tennis courts without number (including secluded ones 
 for beginners), boating on Stow Lake and a lake for wading and 
 bathing. For the adults there is on Stow Lake a fly-casting 
 pier; there is Spreckels Lake for the sailing of model yachts, the 
 bowling green and walks and drives. 
 
 Every Sunday and legal holiday (when not prevented by 
 rain, and such days are surprisingly few) an excellent band of 
 fifty pieces plays in the massive stone Temple of Music, the gift 
 of Claus Spreckels. Facing it are open-air seats for twenty thou- 
 sand, shaded in summer by elms and maples planted for the 
 purpose. 
 
 At the children’s playground, in a handsome stone building 
 
 (the gift of William Sharon), 
 is a restaurant where lunch- 
 eons are served at reasonable 
 prices, the aim being not to 
 make money but to accom- 
 modate the public. Here are 
 good milk, boiled rice and 
 other simple dishes for the 
 
 [62] 
 
 Swings of Children’ s Playground, and 
 Restaurant Building. 
 
Where now are the dunes. 
 
 The tawny half-moons 
 
 Of the sands ever drifting. 
 
 Of the sand's, ever sifting 
 By the shore , and the sweep 
 Of the sea in its sleep? 
 
 * * * 
 
 Oh, wonderful land, where the turbulent sand 
 Will burst into bloom at the touch of a hand. 
 And a desert baptized 
 Prove an Eden disguised. 
 
 — Benjamin F. Taylor. 
 
GOLDEN GATE PARK 
 
 babies, while for their elders a more varied bill of fare includes 
 broths, sandwiches, salads, tea, coffee, ice cream and cake-all 
 well served in a pretty tile-lined room. If visiting parties take 
 their own lunches and wish to eat picnic fashion, coffee, tea, milk 
 or cocoa on a tray, with cups and saucers, can be had for a small 
 sum from a counter below stairs. The tray may be taken any- 
 where in the grounds about, to be returned when the picnic is 
 over. Sandwiches, cake and ice cream can also be bought here 
 to supplement one’s own luncheon. If the weather prove too 
 cool for pleasant picnicking in the open ground, there are tables 
 and chairs provided under shelter. 
 
 On the opposite side of the park is the beautiful Japanese 
 Tea Garden. There is no entrance fee and one may wander 
 through it at will. Here also small parties may eat their picnic 
 luncheon on tables provided for the purpose and finish if they 
 choose with delicious tea served in Japanese fashion; or tired 
 sight-seers may refresh themselves at any time with this cheering 
 beverage accompanied by fascinating rice wafers, served for ten 
 cents by a Japanese family. If you choose you may sit in the 
 tea house embowered in wistaria and drop crumbs for the fat 
 gold and silver fish swimming in the little stream below, or at a 
 teak-wood table in a ferny nook just outside where the birds 
 will come without fear and almost peck from your hand. 
 
 In the garden is a real Japanese house, open for inspection. 
 The garden is truly Japanese, with its high, half-round bridges, a 
 tiny stream and plashing waterfall, porcelain and carved-stone 
 lanterns and many beautiful Japanese plants and curious dwarfed 
 shrubs. In the early spring the garden is beautiful with azaleas, 
 and the weeping cherry trees are like a dream of old Japan. 
 Later, wistaria and iris add their oriental charm. 
 
 The Museum. -Close 
 by stands the Museum Build- 
 ing, a memorial of the Mid- 
 winter Fair of 1 894. Nowin 
 its eighteenth year, it is stead- 
 ily increasing in popularity. 
 
 The attendance at present 
 exceeds that of similar insti- 
 
 [ 6 3 ] 
 
 In the Japanese Tea Garden — Stone and 
 Porcelain Lanterns. 
 
SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 tutions in the United States, 
 more than half a million visi- 
 tors being annually registered 
 by its turnstiles. It is open 
 daily from io a. m. to 4 p. m., 
 and on Sundays and holidays 
 until 5 p.m. DireCtly before 
 the building stands a colossal 
 vase designed by Gustave 
 The Temple of Music. Dore. On either side is an 
 
 ancient cannon from the Philippines, trophies of the Spanish 
 war. Flanking the steps are two sphinxes. Standing near, one 
 day, the writer overheard the serious comments of two Scotch 
 youths from British Columbia. After studying the figures care- 
 fully from every side the conclusion was, “There’s nae sic a beast 
 as that nowadays, is there, Jamie?” 
 
 The Museum houses about eighty-nine thousand speci- 
 mens, valued at over a million dollars. About half are in the 
 Natural History Department on the second floor. The exhibits 
 on the main floor comprise rooms of Colonial relics, pi&ures of 
 the California missions, relics of early California days, relics from 
 the old Russian settlement at Fort Ross, Indian remains, a fine 
 collection of Indian baskets and bead-work, South Sea Island 
 specimens, rooms of ceramics, laces, old brocades, embroideries 
 and tapestries, collections of miniatures, watches, snuff-boxes, 
 gems, armor and weapons, a room of Napoleon relics, and rooms 
 of fine statuary and paintings, including a gallery for local artists 
 (of which San Francisco has a notable number). Additions to the 
 Museum are frequent, both by gift and purchase. 
 
 Temple of Music. -Near the Museum, across the drive- 
 way, is Concert Valley, with its seats for twenty thousand. At its 
 head stands the beautiful Temple of Music, the gift of Claus 
 Spreckels. It was built of Colusa sandstone, at a cost of $ 75,000. 
 The design is Italian Renaissance. The music stand itself has a 
 frontage of fifty-five feet and a height of seventy feet, flanked on 
 either side by Corinthian columns. It has ample capacity for 
 one hundred musicians. Extending on each side are colonnades 
 fifty-two feet long by fifteen feet high, supported by sixteen 
 
GOLDEN GATE PARK 
 
 Ionic columns, the whole forming a beautiful and noble struc- 
 ture, harmonizing with the landscape in which it is set. 
 
 Academy of Sciences BuiLDiNG.-Just across Concert Val- 
 ley is soon to be erected a fine, costly building for the California 
 Academy of Sciences, to house its notable scientific collections 
 of birds, mammals, reptiles, inseCts and other departments of 
 natural history. At a late city election, a charter amendment was 
 passed giving permission to place the building in the park. The 
 former collections of the Academy, valued at half a million dol- 
 lars, having been totally lost by the fire of April, 1906, it seemed 
 wise to place the new collections beyond the possible reach of 
 fire. The building, of classic design, to cost when complete prob- 
 ably over half a million dollars, will be a most valuable addition 
 to the park. Only one seCtion, the left wing, costing approxi- 
 mately $125,000, will be ereCted at this time, the rest to follow 
 when needed. Mr. Leverett Mills Loomis, the director of the 
 Museum, and the curators of the various departments have al- 
 ready, in the six years since the fire, by their zeal and indefatig- 
 able labors, gathered together a collection exceeding in scientific 
 value the old one. A few months after the fire (most fortunately 
 after instead of before) an expedition sent by the Academy to the 
 Galapagos Islands, returned-a veritable treasure ship— bringing 
 thousands of unique and valuable specimens in every department. 
 
 One of the notable features of the new Academy will be the 
 Habitat groups of birds and mammals-each group arranged in a 
 characteristic haunt or habitat of its species, the realistic fore- 
 ground being so blended into the painted background that the 
 division line is indistinguishable, and the effeCt that of nature 
 itself. The backgrounds are painted by genuine artists from 
 careful studies from nature, while the mounting and arrangement 
 are by a man in whom is hap- 
 pily blended artistic genius 
 and a thorough knowledge 
 of natural history. 
 
 The Conservatory.— 
 
 In 1877 a committee of our 
 generous citizens purchased 
 from the Lick Estate the 
 
 The Conservatory. 
 
— 8 — 
 
 Tree Ferns, Nearly Opposite the Conservatory. 
 
 SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 materials which James Lick 
 in his lifetime had prepared 
 for the ereCtion at his house 
 in San Jose of two large 
 conservatories, modeled after 
 those of Kew Gardens, Lon- 
 don. These materials were 
 offered to the public as a 
 gift, for the erection of con- 
 servatories in Golden Gate 
 ,000 appropriated by the 
 
 Park. The gift was accepted and 
 Legislature for the ereCtion of the buildings in Conservatory 
 Valley. These buildings were subsequently destroyed by fire, 
 but through the generosity of Charles Crocker were replaced by 
 the present structure, which contains a wonderful collection of 
 plants from all parts of the world-some remarkable for beauty, 
 others for strangeness and rarity. There are ferns in great vari- 
 ety and beauty, including the strange staghorn fern, a large col- 
 lection of orchids, the Holy Ghost flower, like a tiny white dove, 
 the Bird of Paradise flower, palms of many sorts and beautiful 
 water lilies and lotuses. In one room is a shifting exhibition of 
 undreamed-of varieties of some one plant prized for beauty of 
 blossom. At one time it is a marvelous collection of calceolarias, 
 at another begonias, again cinnerarias— their usual harsh purples 
 and crimson relieved by exquisite pink and white and pale porce- 
 lain blue. The flowers in the beds before the conservatory are 
 changed from time to time as the season demands, spring bulbs 
 giving place to summer annuals, to be replaced later by gorge- 
 ous dahlias and carpets of pansies. Just east of the conservatory 
 is the Arizona garden, where cacti in great variety flourish, and 
 tall century plants lift high their infrequent blooms. 
 
 The whole park abounds in rare trees and shrubs. Between 
 Ninth and Fifteenth avenues, on the southern side of the park, 
 is an arboretum where trees from every quarter of the globe may 
 be found. There are several plantations of tree ferns, and near 
 the bear-pit a pretty dell filled with smaller varieties. A tropical 
 touch is given here and there by a variety of palms, while every- 
 where needed for color flowers are massed effectively. 
 
 [ 66 ] 
 
GOLDEN GATE PARK 
 
 The Aviary.— Crowning a hill across the driveway from the 
 conservatory is the aviary, built in 1890. It shelters many beau- 
 tiful and interesting birds, from the tiny strawberry bird to the 
 great eagles and condors. There are parrots, cockatoos, macaws 
 and parroquets; trim Java sparrows, looking like little ministers 
 in their high choker collars and grave gray coats; pigeons and 
 doves of many varieties-pouters and fantails, ring doves, mourn- 
 ing doves whose plaintive notes moan a sad undertone to the 
 cheerful songs of the canaries, and (most curious of all) the bleed- 
 ing heart dove with the seeming bullet hole and splotch of blood 
 on his breast, so life-like (or, rather, death-like) that one wonders 
 to see him running about pecking his food. There is a beautiful 
 collection of pheasants in the enclosures just outside the aviary 
 proper, each variety more wonderfully and beautifully marked 
 than its neighbor. They almost surpass the peacock in beauty. 
 For several years a lovely white peacock strutted about in the 
 enclosure and spread his ghostly tail-pure white, save the eyes, 
 which were pale, misty, gray-green simulacra of the brilliant, 
 metallic tints of his more common brothers. Of the latter there 
 are many in the park, wandering at their own sweet will. Coveys 
 of valley or mountain quail may cross one’s path at any time. 
 The different lakes of the park abound in black and white swan 
 and varieties of ducks and geese, nearly all so tame that they 
 hasten to the shore to be fed by the bystanders. 
 
 Animals. -Animal life is represented by many interesting 
 specimens. There are several varieties of deer, including the 
 spotted deer of Hawaii, donated by Mr. Bishop. These, with 
 antelope, and kangaroo from Australia, are just west of the chil- 
 dren’s playground and bowling green. 
 
 The moose, brought from Alaska when young, are near the 
 enclosure for the deer. 
 
 The buffalo paddock is 
 southwest of Aviary Hill, 
 between it and the deer park. 
 
 Another herd of buffalo is 
 kept near the most northern 
 and largest of the Chain of 
 Lakes. There are twenty-five 
 
 A Few of the Buffalo. 
 
■ 
 
 SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 in this herd, all but three born in the park and attaining normal 
 size and vigor. 
 
 The bear enclosures are south of the Middle Drive, near 
 the buffalo paddock. Monarch, an enormous grizzly bear (long 
 said to have been the finest specimen of valley grizzly in the 
 world), has recently died, but several of his cubs, now nearly as 
 large as himself, survive. He was given to the park by W. R. 
 Hearst. His mate was a mountain grizzly. There are also in the 
 bear-pits several fine specimens of black and cinnamon bears. 
 They seem fond of the water, and it is an amusing sight to watch 
 them rolling and tumbling in their big bathing tanks. 
 
 The elk glen is a little west of Stow Lake, about in the 
 middle of the park, just north of the South Drive. Of the sev- 
 enty-five elk, all were born in the park except the original pair, 
 which was the gift of Alvinza Hayward. 
 
 Lakes.— The park abounds in lakes, all artificial. Stow Lake 
 is the most important and is a blended triumph of engineer’s 
 skill and landscape gardener’s art. The idea of the lake and the 
 beautiful Huntington Falls was conceived by W. W. Stow, a 
 former park commissioner. He enlisted the financial support of 
 the late Collis P. Huntington in the carrying out of his plan. 
 So skilfully have art and nature been mingled that the former is 
 difficult to deteft. The lake surrounds the base of Strawberry 
 Hill. A driveway, from which are obtained beautiful views of 
 the park, glimpses of the Marin County hills and of the dis- 
 tant ocean, winds around the lake, and there are walks on both 
 sides. The lake can be crossed by either of two bridges, contin- 
 uing the drive or walk to the top of the hill. This was once 
 crowned by an observatory in the form of a coliseum, the gift 
 of a former citizen, Thomas U. Sweeny. The stru&ure was of 
 
 concrete. Its upper gallery, 
 sheltered by glass, afforded a 
 splendid panoramic view of 
 the city, the Golden Gate, 
 the western sand-dunes and 
 the ocean, embracing the Far- 
 allone Islands, twenty-seven 
 miles away, if the day were 
 
 [ 68 ] 
 
 A Bit of Stow Lake. 
 
The land where summers never cease 
 Their sunny psalm of light and peace. 
 
 Whose moonlight , poured for years untold , 
 Has drifted down in dust of gold; 
 
 Whose morning splendors s fallen in showers , 
 Leave ceaseless sutirise in the flowers. 
 
 — From 1 ‘ The Hermitage,” by Edward Rowland Sill. 
 
GOLDEN GATE PARK 
 
 clear. Now a few ruined walls bear witness to the severity of the 
 earthquake of April 18, 1906. Just at this point the shock was 
 peculiarly strong. The wire cables reinforcing the concrete were 
 snapped in two like rope. Lacking the additional height of the 
 observatory, the view is at present only obtained in glimpses 
 through the trees. Nevertheless, on a clear day one is well repaid 
 for walking or driving up the hill. On Sundays and holidays Hun- 
 tington Falls dashes in a series of cascades down the side of the 
 hill into the lake. A bridge crosses the falls near the summit and 
 is a fine vantage point from which to view the rushing water. 
 
 Rocky islands clothed with trees and shrubbery add to the 
 beauty of the lake, and are breeding places for swan and other 
 waterfowl, all so tame that they will come to the shore and eat 
 from one’s hand. 
 
 Near the Roman bridge on the northern side of the lake is 
 a boathouse where rowboats may be obtained. The lake is quite 
 large enough, and the scenery about it quite attractive enough, 
 to make a row around it worth while. There is also a pier where 
 disciples of Izaak Walton may match their skill in fly-casting. 
 Stow Lake is also the central source of the park’s irrigation 
 system. It has a capacity of 25,000,000 gallons of water. 
 
 From the roadway around the hill, near the Roman bridge, 
 a fine view of prayer book cross may be obtained. (This cross 
 is described under Monuments). 
 
 Northwest of Stow Lake, a little beyond the eminence on 
 which stands the prayer book cross, just at the right of the Main 
 Drive, is Lloyd Lake, three acres in area. A footpath encircles 
 it. Nestling amidst the trees and shrubbery on one of its banks 
 stands the classic doorway of the A. N. Towne residence which 
 once crowned Nob Hill. The fire of April, 1906, left only a bit 
 of wall and this picturesque 
 relic. 
 
 Metson Lake, two acres 
 in extent, is farther to the 
 west, at the left of the Mid- 
 dle Drive. The lake also is 
 encircled by a well shaded 
 footpath. 
 
 r 6 9] 
 
 atm 
 
 “ Portals of the Past 
 
 HHI 
 
 (see picture facing page 50). 
 
SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 Farther west and near the 
 northern boundary of the 
 park, between Thirty-second 
 and Thirty-sixth avenues, at 
 the right of the Main Drive, 
 is Spreckels Lake, named for 
 Park Commissioner A. B. 
 Spreckels. This lake covers 
 seven acres. H ere on every 
 pleasant day men in greater 
 or less number may be found sailing their model yachts and evi- 
 dently enjoying their sport as much as the small boy who often 
 trudges delightedly beside “father” with his own tiny craft. The 
 models are from two to five feet long, the latter with masts taller 
 than their owners. They tack or sail down the wind quite as if 
 manned by a crew. Across the drive from the lake, near the 
 stadium, is the club house where, on racks arranged for them, 
 are dozens of these little boats. 
 
 Still further west is the Chain of Lakes. These lakes, three 
 in number, comprise a chain nearly across the park from north 
 to south between Thirty- eighth and Forty-fourth avenues. They 
 greatly enhance the beauty of the landscape and, with their curv- 
 ing shores and pretty islands, seem wholly the work of nature, 
 so cunningly has the hand of man been concealed. Each lake is 
 encircled by a driveway thirty feet wide. The islands are planted 
 with trees, with an undergrowth of rhododendron, ferns and iris, 
 while native shrubs such as ceanothus, Romneya Coulterii and 
 rhododendrons cover the eastern slope of the northernmost and 
 largest lake. The shores of the middle lake (which lies between 
 the Main Drive and the Speed Road) are wooded with cypress, 
 pine and eucalyptus. The shores of the smallest lake are planted 
 with deciduous trees. 
 
 Lake Alvord is a tiny lake (named for Park Commissioner 
 William Alvord) near the Haight Street entrance of the park. 
 It nestles in a pretty hollow, surrounded by ferns, pampas grass, 
 rocks and shrubbery. A fountain plays in the center, and graceful 
 swan add to its decorative effe<5t. A small lake near the stadium 
 is used as a swimming pool. 
 
 [ 7 °] 
 
GOLDEN GATE PARK 
 
 Monuments. -There are numerous monuments and statues 
 in stone, bronze and marble in the park. The most striking of 
 these is the prayer book cross, just north of Strawberry Hill, at 
 the right of the Main Drive. It was designed by Ernest Cox- 
 head, and was modeled after the ancient Runic crosses in Iona, 
 Scotland. Its height is fifty-seven feet, including base. It is built 
 of Colusa sandstone, handsomely carved, with inscriptions. It 
 was the gift of George W. Childs, of Philadelphia, and eredted 
 under the auspices of the Episcopal Diocese to commemorate 
 the “first Christian service of the English tongue on our coast,” 
 the “first use of the Book of Common Prayer in our country” 
 and “one of the first recorded missionary prayers on our conti- 
 nent.” The above quotations are from the inscription on the face 
 of the cross, followed by “Soli Deo sit semper gloria.” That on 
 the other side reads: “Presented to Golden Gate Park at the 
 opening of the Midwinter Fair, January i, a. d. 1894, as a me- 
 morial of the service held on the shore of Drake’s Bay about St. 
 John Baptist’s Day, June 24, Anno Domini 1587, by Francis 
 Fletcher, priest of the Church of England, chaplain of Sir Fran- 
 cis Drake, chronicler of the service.” 
 
 The monument to Francis Scott Key, author of the “Star 
 Spangled Banner,” was designed by the late W. W. Story and 
 given to the Park by the late James Lick. The cost of the mon- 
 ument was $60,000. In 1874 the hill on the northeast corner of 
 the park was by order of the board of commissioners named 
 Mount Lick, in commemoration of this gift. 
 
 Diredtly in front of the museum a fine bronze drinking 
 fountain, the Wine Press, commemorates the Midwinter Fair. 
 It is by Thomas Shields Clarke. 
 
 There is a statue of Father Junipero Serra, eredted by the 
 Native Sons of the Golden 
 West, one of Goethe and 
 Schiller, one of Thomas Starr 
 King, of Robert Burns, of 
 Garfield, Halleck and Grant; 
 and at the park panhandle 
 entrance a bronze figure dedi- 
 cated to PresidentMcKinley. 
 
 [71] 
 
* 
 
 SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 The Stadium and Other 
 Athletic FiELDs.-Between 
 Thirtieth and Thirty-sixth 
 avenues, midway between the 
 north and south boundaries, 
 the stadium— a noble, great, 
 grassy arena— occupies thirty 
 acres of the park. It is easily 
 reached by the “Beach” car 
 of the McAllister Street line, 
 through an entrance near Spreckels Lake, at Thirty-sixth ave- 
 nue. It can also be reached from the car line on the southern 
 boundary, but the walk is a little longer. It was designed by 
 Superintendent John McLaren and Commissioner A. B. Spreck- 
 els. A grassy terrace, ten feet high and thirty feet wide, sloping 
 to the center, surrounds it. This will accommodate 60,000 spec- 
 tators, while the grandstand will add 40,000 more to the number. 
 A trotting track sixty feet wide encircles it. The entrances are 
 through tunnels under the track. At the base of the terrace is a 
 footpath; within this, a bicycle track. Near the eastern end is a 
 quarter-mile cinder track. Within this are spaces for vaulting, 
 jumping and hammer throwing. A basket-ball court and six 
 football fields find room in the great arena. 
 
 On O&ober 14, 1911, a typically glorious California day, 
 President Taft, in the presence of nearly 100,000 people, broke 
 ground in the stadium for the great Panama-Pacific Exposition. 
 The completion and adornment of the stadium in an appropriate 
 manner is a part of the plan of the Exposition managers. 
 
 Near Seventh avenue and Lincoln Way, on the southern 
 side of the park, are nine baseball fields. There is a field for 
 younger boys between Lake Alvord and the children's play- 
 ground. The bowling green is west of the walk leading down from 
 the restaurant, sheltered, and partly concealed by shrubbery. 
 
 A little to the north is the croquet ground, with the tennis 
 courts just beyond, half-way between the children’s playground 
 and the conservatory. 
 
 TheDutch Windmills and ParkWater Supply.— Golden 
 Gate Park has its own independent water supply. From a system 
 
 [72] 
 
GOLDEN GATE PARK 
 
 of wells and a pumping plant a supply of 1,500,000 gallons is 
 obtained at a cost of two cents per thousand gallons. From this 
 source comes the water that flows over Huntington Falls into 
 Stow Lake and thence, by gravitation, moistens the eastern and 
 most highly cultivated area of the park. 
 
 A greater supply being needed for the newer lakes and 
 middle and western divisions of the park, Commissioners Reu- 
 ben H. Lloyd and A. B. Spreckels conceived the idea that wells 
 might be sunk and the winds used as motive power for pumping 
 the water to the level required. Test wells furnishing evidence 
 that plenty of water was available, and it being thought that a 
 Dutch windmill would add a pidturesque feature to the scenery, 
 as well as serve a utilitarian purpose, one was constructed near 
 the northwest corner of the park, at a cost of $25,000. The pump- 
 ing capacity is 30,000 gallons an hour, furnishing a never-failing 
 supply at a low cost. 
 
 Later, through the generosity of Samuel G. Murphy, a 
 second windmill was built near the southwest corner. It furnishes 
 40,000 gallons an hour, and is the largest in the world. 
 
 The Gjoa.— Near the northern windmill, not far from the 
 Great Highway, nestled in a hollow almost surrounded by trees 
 and shrubbery, is the Norwegian sloop Gjoa, the famous vessel 
 in which Captain Roald Amundsen in 1908 made his historic 
 northwest passage from the Atlantic to the Pacific — a passage 
 sought for since the time of Columbus. Captain Amundsen, on 
 behalf of Norway, presented the sloop to the city. The gift was 
 accepted by Mayor Taylor and committed to the care of the 
 park commissioners. The vessel was beached south of the Cliff 
 House and moved by means of rollers to its present position. 
 
 Beach Chalet.— On the ocean boulevard, or Great High- 
 way, and nearly opposite the 
 Gjoa, is the Beach Chalet, a 
 restaurant and resting place 
 belonging to the park. From 
 its western balconies is a glo- 
 rious view of the ocean and 
 beach, and, in clear weather, 
 of the Farralone Islands. 
 
 Beaching the Gjoa, Preparatory to Drawing Her in. 
 
SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 Life Saving Station.— Just at the northwestern corner of 
 the park is the United States Life Saving Station. Sometimes 
 one is fortunate enough to see the service men rolling out their 
 boats and lauching them in the surf for pradlice. 
 
 Commercial Cable.— Near the western end of the park is 
 the American end of the cable, which is laid by way of Honolulu 
 and Midway Island to the Orient. 
 
 Ways of Reaching the Park.— Several lines of street 
 cars lead to the various park entrances. All of them run from 
 the Ferry Building or from Market street. The Ellis Street 
 line, Haight street, and Hayes and Stanyan line (“21”) lead to 
 the main entrances on the eastern border of the park, the Ellis 
 line also running along the southern boundary to the ocean, past 
 the entrances which lead dire&ly to Huntington Falls and Stow 
 Lake, the stadium and the Chain of Lakes. The Geary Street, 
 Turk and Eddy, McAllister and Fulton Street lines run along 
 the northern boundary for some distance, the last-named going 
 to the ocean. There are several entrances along the northern 
 border-one being behind the conservatory, another dire&ly be- 
 hind the museum, another near the tea garden and one at Thirty- 
 sixth avenue leading to Spreckels Lake and the stadium. Pref- 
 erence among these lines depends upon the time one wishes to 
 give to the park and what one most wishes to see. At the eastern 
 and some of the northern entrances are carriages and automobiles 
 for hire. If time is limited, and the visitor wishes to see all the 
 essential features of the park, it is desirable to ride. It is a beau- 
 tiful drive through the park to the ocean boulevard, or from the 
 park to the Presidio, through the Presidio Parkway. But if one 
 has the time, walking is the best method of seeing the park, espe- 
 cially the eastern end. The visitor should remember that the 
 
 park runs substantially east 
 and west. Entering at its 
 eastern end the principal 
 roads lead west to the ocean, 
 which is itswestern boundary. 
 
 A good route is to take 
 the Ellis Street line to Stan- 
 yan street. This line runs 
 
 Looking Down the Beach From the Suiro Veranda. 
 
The Prayer Book 
 Cross. To Commemorate 
 First Church of 
 England Service on 
 This Coast. Photograph 
 by E. N. Sewall. 
 
The Cross of Golden Gate. 
 
 With Westward face this Great Cross tells 
 Its old, undying story 
 Of Faith of Ages , standing sure , 
 
 And Bethlehem' s wondrous glory . 
 
 * * * 
 
 Its steadfast front to seaward speaks 
 Of History's turning pages ; 
 
 Of hope and love and Christian trust 
 And Empire's marching ages. 
 
 — Char la S. Aiken 
 
GOLDEN GATE PARK 
 
 along the panhandle on Oak street. At the entrance to the pan- 
 handle on Baker street may be seen a bronze statue by Robert 
 Aitken, dedicated to President McKinley. The ground for this 
 statue was broken by President Roosevelt on the occasion of his 
 visit to the city in 1903. Leave the car where it turns on Stan- 
 yan street and enter the park where the roadway from the pan- 
 handle leads into it. The brownstone building at the right, near 
 this entrance, is the commissioners’ lodge. A short walk brings 
 one to Conservatory Valley. After a tour through the conserva- 
 tory and a glance at the Arizona garden east of it, return to the 
 main road and ascend a slight hill across the road on the left. 
 Note the tree-ferns near the base of the hill. A sign points to 
 the aviary. After visiting that and the pheasant enclosures out- 
 side, return to the main road and follow it to the museum. Oc- 
 casional statues commemorating great men are seen on the way. 
 Not far from the museum at the left is one of Father Junipero 
 Serra, the founder in 1776 of the Mission of St. Francis of 
 Assisi, which was the beginning of San Francisco. From the 
 museum (which is open from 10 A. m. to 4 p. m. on ordinary days 
 and until 5 p. m. on Sundays and holidays), the road leads past 
 Concert Valley and the Temple of Music. Just beyond, at the 
 right, a massive Japanese gateway announces the tea garden, 
 from which a few moments’ climb along the path indicated by 
 signs will bring one to Stow Lake. A bridge leads to Strawberry 
 Hill and, from the road near the bridge, the prayer book cross 
 is seen to the northwest. 
 
 If the visitor has seen enough for one day, there are two ways 
 out from here without going back to the eastern entrance. Part 
 way around the lake a road leads out to the southern boundary 
 of the park and a street car line going to the ocean or returning 
 to the city. Or, one’s steps 
 may be retraced as far as the 
 museum, at the eastern end 
 of which a walk leads sharply 
 down under a viadud, and 
 so out by an exit on the 
 northern boundary to several 
 lines into the city’s center. 
 
 The Commissioner’s Lodge. 
 
 
SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 If one walk it is best to 
 make at least two trips if pos- 
 sible, taking the south side 
 of the park on another day. 
 Haight street or Ellis street 
 cars lead to the Haight Street 
 entrance. From here, a short 
 walk past Lake Alvord leads 
 to the children’s playground. 
 Lake Alvord and Fountain. H ere are the donkeys, goat- 
 
 carts, swings, beautiful lawns and the Sharon restaurant build- 
 ing. From here the animal enclosures to the west are easy to 
 reach, also the tennis courts opposite, while close by, behind the 
 shrubbery, at the left of the road leading down from the Sharon 
 building, is the bowling green. 
 
 The Middle Drive, north of Laveaga dell, leads to the 
 buffalo paddock, a short distance away on the north side of the 
 drive. Opposite, on the south side, are the bear enclosures and, 
 very near, a path leads into fern dell. 
 
 The arboretum is just west of the animal paddocks. Fol- 
 lowing the South Drive around the arboretum. Stow Lake is 
 easily reached from the south side; or, continuing along the South 
 Drive a little further and taking either the Middle or South 
 Drive where they branch, the elk glen is passed. An exit may 
 be made here on the south side at Nineteenth avenue. 
 
 If all must be done in one trip it is best to take the south 
 side first and cross from the children’s playground or the animal 
 paddocks, through the tennis courts, to the Main Drive and the 
 conservatory on the north side, visiting the aviary nearly oppo- 
 site, and then following the Main Drive to the museum, Temple 
 of Music, tea garden and Stow Lake, returning to the exit on 
 the northern side, back of the tea garden or museum. 
 
 To visit the lakes or stadium requires longer walking unless 
 one take a street car at one of the northern exits and re-enters 
 the park at a point near them— at Thirty-sixth avenue for the 
 stadium and Spreckels Lake. 
 
 The places above described are those best worth the time 
 of the tourist who has little to spare. 
 
GOLDEN GATE PARK 
 
 The present visitor to Golden Gate Park can scarcely real- 
 ize that a few years ago it was filled with tents and shacks, giving 
 shelter to the homeless of the city. It is estimated that for the 
 few days after the great fire at least 200,000 found refuge in the 
 Presidio, Golden Gate Park and other public reservations of San 
 Francisco. Many of these later crossed the bay and scattered to 
 other homes, but for more than a year at least 30,000 were cared 
 for in the different parks. The camps in Golden Gate Park were 
 the first abandoned as the work of concentration progressed; but 
 for seven or eight months the open spaces were filled with tents 
 and barracks, wash houses and bath houses, dining rooms, read- 
 ing rooms, a hospital, depots for giving out supplies, and a school 
 for children. Here people lived and died, babies were born and 
 the sick cared for; here children romped and played and went 
 to school, and family work was carried on. With it all, so little 
 injury was done that by the summer after the last tent was re- 
 moved no trace visible to the public remained of its unwonted 
 use. All San Franciscans who partook of its hospitable shelter 
 must thenceforth feel a peculiar love for Golden Gate Park. 
 
 June 2, 1906, was the most memorable Commencement 
 Day of San Francisco’s existence— an historic day. Nearly all the 
 school houses of the city having been destroyed, commencement 
 exercises were held at the Temple of Music in the park and here 
 1,700 pupils of the public and commercial schools of the city 
 received their certificates of graduation, after speeches, music in 
 chorus and by the band. The credit for suggesting this out-of- 
 door commencement is due to Professor Henry Morse Stephens 
 of the University of California. 
 
 The park was also used for the Fourth of July celebration 
 in 1906. The exercises were in the stadium, and consisted of 
 athletic contests, interspersed 
 with music by the Park Band 
 and a great chorus of school 
 children— an early example of 
 a “sane” Fourth. 
 
 The Great Highway 
 or Ocean BouLEVARD.-At 
 the western end of the park, 
 
 [77] 
 
SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 between it and the ocean, is 
 the Great Highway, extend- 
 ing south along the Pacific 
 from the Cliff House to Lake 
 Merced or the San Mateo 
 County line. This is at pres- 
 ent a beautiful driveway for 
 automobiles or carriages, it 
 making a delightful terminus 
 of a drive through the park. 
 It is proposed by the commissioners to widen the highway to a 
 uniform breadth of 250 feet. Reinforced concrete piers will be 
 sunk close together in the sand and prote&ed from the wash of 
 waves by rough rubble stone at their bases. On the top of the 
 concrete piers will be an Italian balustrade with a footpath, 20 
 feet wide, east of it. Next to this will be a driveway, 150 feet 
 wide, for pleasure vehicles only. A strip, 20 feet wide, planted 
 with trees and shrubs will separate this from a roadway, 40 feet 
 wide, for business vehicles. The whole will be lighted by groups 
 of electric lights of artistic design. It is expe&ed that this will 
 be one of the great scenic avenues of the world. The work is 
 already well underway. 
 
 The Cliff House, Sutro Gardens and Sutro Baths.— 
 Though not under the park management, the Cliff House, Sutro 
 Gardens and Sutro Baths are closely conne&ed with Golden 
 Gate Park, as the western end of the park leads dire&ly to them. 
 
 The present Cliff House is the fourth of that name, and 
 the fifth building upon or near this rock, the western tip of Point 
 Lobos. The first, known as the Seal Rock House, was erecded 
 in 1858. The second (and first one known as Cliff House) was 
 built in 1861. The third was a plain, square strud:ure of wood, 
 built in 1863, and destroyed by fire on Christmas night in 1894. 
 The fourth, an ornate wooden building, suggesting at a distance 
 a French chateau, was built by the late Mr. Adolph Sutro, and 
 destroyed by fire in 1907. It was erroneously stated in some 
 eastern and English periodicals of repute that the Cliff House, 
 dignified as “a massive, stone stru&ure,” tumbled into the sea 
 during the earthquake of 1906, whereas it was not at all injured. 
 
 [78] 
 
 The Present Cliff House and Seal Rocks. 
 
GOLDEN GATE PARK 
 
 Since very early days the Cliff House has been a favorite objec- 
 tive point for a drive or a street car ride. It is a glorious place 
 from which to view an ocean storm. 
 
 The present structure, of concrete, was built on the historic 
 site as soon as possible after the destruction of the previous one. 
 From the terrace a fine view is obtained of the seal rocks, with 
 the clumsy sea lions climbing over or swimming about them and 
 struggling with one another for favorite places, all the time bark- 
 ing lustily. The seal rocks are under the park management. 
 
 Following the road down the beach one sees the children 
 wading or bathing. If a warm day, the sands are covered by 
 hundreds, sometimes thousands, of picnickers. The water is too 
 cold for pleasant bathing, but the children enjoy wading and 
 being chased by the surf up the beach. Here members of the 
 Olympic Club make it a point to bathe and have a run on the 
 beach every Christmas Day. Though the water is too cold for 
 comfortable bathing in summer, it is not appreciably colder on 
 Christmas Day than on the Fourth of July. In the midst of this 
 beach a long, iron pier extends into the ocean. This carries the 
 pipe through which is pumped the salt water for supplying the 
 Olympic Club, the Lurline and other salt water baths in the city. 
 
 Opposite the Cliff House a parapet crowning Sutro Heights 
 may be seen. This is reached through the beautiful Sutro Gar- 
 dens, the home of the late Adolph Sutro (now unoccupied, but 
 open to the public). From the parapet is a glorious, unbroken 
 view of the ocean, the beach, the heads (marking the entrance to 
 the Golden Gate), of Point Reyes (forming the northern bound- 
 ary of the outer bay), and, if clear, the Farallone Islands, twenty- 
 seven miles away. Always there is the interest of watching the 
 vessels going in or out the Golden Gate— fishing smacks, tugs, 
 schooners, steamships, per- 
 haps a battleship or cruiser, 
 and, if one is fortunate, the 
 eye may be gladdened by the 
 sight of a ship in full sail. 
 
 Returning to the en- 
 trance of the gardens, the 
 road down the hill leads to 
 
 [79] 
 
 The Olympic Club’s Christmas Day Frolic. 
 
SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 the Sutro Baths, hewed out of rock, the largest salt water baths 
 in the world. There is a number of commodious tanks which are 
 graduated in temperature and depth, so that children of all sizes 
 can be safely accommodated. One tank is exclusively for ladies, 
 and there is a very large one, big enough for the swimming 
 matches. Diving platforms, slides (made slippery by constantly 
 flowing water) and other apparatus add zest to the sport. The 
 building contains an interesting museum, besides the bathing 
 tanks. Surrounding the tanks are seats for over 7,000 people. 
 
 The best way to reach the Sutro Gardens, Sutro Baths and 
 Cliff House is by the Cliff House car on Sutter street. If pos- 
 sible, get a seat on the right-hand side of the car. After leaving 
 the city, the line skirts the cliffs along the Golden Gate, giving a 
 view of its rocky shores and the entrance from the ocean which 
 can be obtained in no other way. As the car turns towards the 
 Golden Gate, one looks down upon Baker’s Bay and Beach, where 
 the ill-fated Rio de Janeiro sank a dozen years ago. A little way 
 further is Land’s End. From the station a steep, but perfectly 
 practicable, pathway leads down to the rock-strewn beach. This 
 is a fine place to picnic or to spend a few hours watching the 
 surf boil among the rocks, and the vessels going out and coming 
 in the Golden Gate. Mile Rock, capped by a lighthouse, seems 
 scarcely more than a stone’s throw away, though it is a mile 
 from shore, as its name indicates. Opposite can be seen the white 
 Government buildings on Point Bonita. For a number of years 
 a hermit lived in a rocky cave on this beach. Near the end of 
 the Cliff car line is the gateway leading into the Sutro Gardens. 
 
 After visiting the Gardens, Baths and Cliff House, return 
 to the city can be made by the Ellis Street line, skirting the 
 southern boundary of the park. This line is reached a block east 
 
 of the Great Highway or 
 ocean boulevard. Or, if one 
 wish to climb the hill again, 
 there is the returning Cliff 
 line and the Clement Street 
 line which enters and leaves 
 a spacious station next to the 
 Sutro Baths. 
 
 [ 8 °] 
 
 Sutro Baths, Largest Salt-lVater Baths in the World. 
 
Not Holland; but 
 Golden Gate Park, San 
 Francisco. Photo- 
 graph by R. J. Waters. 
 
telegraph Hill. 
 
 Scarred with the jagged wounds from ruthless hands , 
 Despoiled , dishonored of my fair array— 
 
 The gold and emerald vesture of the day 
 When first I signaled to these virgin strands 
 The argosies and fleets of alien lands ; 
 
 Rampart and sentinel of this my Bay 
 Whose untracked waters leaped in jeweled spray 
 And beat in melody the tawny sands! 
 
 What guerdon mine ? I wait! To greet these skies— 
 Throned on my breast, lifting from fronded trees, 
 I see a templed splendor yet to be 
 Whiter than Shasta' s snows it shall arise. 
 
 And proud as that which shone on Pericles— 
 
 The marble dream by the Aegean sea. 
 
 — In a Coolbrith. 
 
 / 
 
Telegraph Hill, With Pioneer Park on Its Summit. 
 
 Chapter Six • The Smaller Parks 
 
 B uena Vista Park.— Buena Vista Hill, rising just south of 
 Haight street, between Broderick street and Central 
 , avenue, is reached by the Haight Street cars. From 
 I here a fine and extended view is obtained of the city, 
 peaks of the Coast range, the ocean, bay and islands. 
 Pine and cypress, acacia and live oak trees cover it. There are 
 pleasant, woodsy paths, and benches for rest and enjoyment of 
 the outlook. 
 
 Portsmouth SQUARE.-Most interesting of the small parks 
 is Portsmouth Square, the oldest improved square in the city and 
 the center of Yerba Buena, the little settlement on the cove of 
 that name which was the forerunner of the city of San Francisco. 
 The early history of this square is the early history of the city, 
 and it has not ceased to play its part in subsequent years. It lies 
 between Kearny street and Brenham place, Washington and Clay 
 streets, a small half-square, crowded with associations, historical 
 and literary. William Heath Davis, who came to Yerba Buena 
 cove in 1833, said that where Portsmouth Square now is was 
 then a growing crop of potatoes, planted by Candelario Mira- 
 montes, who, with his family, lived at the Presidio. The square, 
 or plaza, as it was then called, was set aside from, the little set- 
 tlement of Yerba Buena in 1835, and the first two houses built 
 by Americans (that of Captain Richardson in 1835 and that of 
 Jacob Leese in 1836) were near the corner of Dupont and Clay 
 streets. I fi the home of Leese the first Fourth of July celebra- 
 tion was held in 1 836, and here was born in 1 840 Rosalie Leese, 
 the first child of American parents born in the city. Soon the 
 principal buildings of the little settlement clustered around the 
 
 [ 8 .] 
 
SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 square. The first hotel wor- 
 thy of the name was erected 
 in 1846, on the southwest 
 corner of Clay and Kearny 
 streets— the City Hotel. This 
 was a long, one-story adobe 
 building, with a verandah on 
 the Kearny Street front. The 
 custom house fronted on the 
 square, and later the post- 
 office was on the corner of Pike and Clay streets. In 1849 the 
 Rev. Albert Williams, founder of the First Presbyterian Church 
 of San Francisco, preached his first sermon in the public school- 
 house, situated on the southwest corner of the plaza. This school- 
 house was a memorable building, then the only place for public 
 meetings in the city. Mr. Williams says: “A bell on a column 
 in the rear of the building gave no uncertain sound. Union re- 
 ligious services were held here morning and evening on Sunday. 
 On secular days the place was occupied by my ‘Institute/ a pri- 
 vate school, and on certain evenings by the Town Council, known 
 as the Ayuntamiento, and also by the District Assembly and by 
 occasional public gatherings.” 
 
 The first bank was on Kearny street, opposite the square. 
 The first store building was on Clay and Dupont streets and the 
 first newspaper office one block distant. 
 
 On July 8, 1 846, with appropriate ceremonies, the American 
 flag was here first raised in San Francisco. The flag was from 
 the United States Sloop of War Portsmouth, then lying in the 
 bay. It was raised by Captain Montgomery of the sloop, as- 
 sisted by his command of sailors and marines, and a salute of 
 twenty-one guns was fired from the Portsmouth, proclaiming the 
 occupation of northern California by the United States. From 
 this deed the plaza received its later name of Portsmouth Square; 
 and Montgomery street, one block east, was given the name of 
 the captain. 
 
 Here was the seething center of life of early days. Some- 
 times it resounded to joyous celebrations; sometimes the gather- 
 ings were sombre. In 1850 there was in the square a procession 
 
 [ 8 ,] 
 
 Portsmouth Square in 1854. 
 
THE SMALLER PARKS 
 
 of all the Chinese in the city (about a hundred), dressed in their 
 richest robes; the purpose was to bid them welcome to our shores— 
 a sharp contrast to their later treatment-and to distribute among 
 them, with speeches through an interpreter, Chinese books and 
 leaflets, secular and religious. In 1851 one of the hangings by 
 the Vigilance Committee took place in the plaza, from a beam 
 projecting from the custom house. 
 
 Gradually schools and churches, custom house and post- 
 offlce have withdrawn from its vicinity, but its surroundings are 
 no less interesting. To the north stretches the Latin quarter, 
 west is Chinatown, while opposite is the fine new Hall of Jus- 
 tice, replacing the previous one destroyed by the earthquake and 
 fire of 1906. 
 
 The lingerer on the square can hear the tongues of many 
 far-away lands. Foreigners fill the benches or sun themselves on 
 the grass, as they did when R. L. S. sat there in 1879 and in 
 watching that strange life ebb and flow about him, and in listen- 
 ing to sailor yarns, received the inspirations of some of his later 
 tales. And so, when the fountain was to be ereCted “To Remem- 
 ber Robert Louis Stevenson,” this spot was chosen for its site. 
 
 It was the first monument eredted to his memory, and was de- 
 signed by Mr. Bruce Porter and Mr. Willis Polk. 
 
 It is but a few short blocks to the site of the Bush Street 
 restaurant where Stevenson ate his fifty-cent dinners, “a copious 
 meal, with half a bottle of wine,” and to the site of 608 Bush 
 street, where he passed some dreary weeks. Both places had van- 
 ished before the fire of 1906 made its clean sweep, but the first 
 meeting of the Stevenson Fellowship, which commemorated the 
 birthday of Stevenson by a supper and appropriate speeches, was 
 held in this restaurant, and from there the company walked to 
 the square to decorate the 
 monument with wreaths and 
 flowers. It was a notable 
 gathering: Mrs. Stevenson; 
 
 Jules Simoneau, of Monte- 
 rey, the old French restau- 
 rateur with whom Stevenson 
 “discussed the universe and 
 
 [83] 
 
 Portsmouth Square, With the Stevenson Monument. 
 
SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 played chess daily;” Miss 
 Ide, to whom Stevenson de- 
 vised his birthday as she, 
 having been born on Christ- 
 mas Day, “had no proper one 
 of her own;” Mrs.VirgilWil- 
 liams,“bridesmaid and best 
 man in one” on the occasion 
 of his marriage, and others 
 
 Portsmouth Square, After the Earthquake and Fire. who loved Stevenson though 
 
 they had not been fortunate enough to know him. Dr. Jordan, 
 president of Stanford University, presided. 
 
 Portsmouth Square saw many disastrous conflagrations— the 
 first, in 1849, destroying most of the little town, with its flimsy 
 structures of canvas and wood. This was followed by five equally 
 severe during 1850 and 1851. Of all these the old plaza was the 
 center; but on the morning of April 18, 1906, it awakened to its 
 greatest experience. The Hall of Justice, across Kearny street, 
 tottered and its cupola fell with its iron framework bent at right 
 angles. Chinatown and the Latin quarter, shaken to the core, 
 poured many of their frightened inhabitants into the square. Citi- 
 zens, hastening to the mayor to offer their services and finding 
 the City Hall in ruins, met in the badly damaged Hall of Jus- 
 tice. From there, driven by the approach of fire, they adjourned 
 to the vicinity of the Stevenson monument, moving further west 
 to the unfinished Fairmont Hotel as the fire drew nearer. Again 
 Portsmouth Square was surrounded by fire, buildings were con- 
 sumed, its trees were scorched, their leaves shriveled— ruin was 
 all around. The Fountain alone spoke of hope and peace, still 
 offering its cup of cold water, still admonishing us “to be honest, 
 to be kind.” Soon under its shadow appeared a long row of tem- 
 porary graves; a little later the square, hospitable alike to the 
 living and the dead, was filled with the tents of refugees and of 
 the soldier guard. In December, 150 two-room cottages were 
 erected on the square, which were occupied through the winter 
 and following spring. At the southeast corner stands an iron post, 
 bearing an inscription and supporting a bell. Another marks the 
 intersection of Kearny and Market streets, and there is one before 
 
 [84] 
 
THE SMALLER PARKS 
 
 the old Mission Church on Dolores street. These are placed by 
 the Landmarks' Club of California, to mark the important points 
 on El Camino Real, or old royal highway from mission to mission. 
 
 Union Square. -Union Square occupies the block between 
 Stockton and Powell, Geary and Post streets. It is prettily 
 planted with trees, shrubbery and flowers, and in the center is a 
 monument designed by Newton Tharp, to commemorate Dew- 
 ey's victory in Manila bay. From a massive, square base rises a 
 slender shaft surmounted by Victory with a laurel wreath. The 
 figure is by Robert Aitken. President McKinley broke the 
 ground for this monument in 1901, and President Roosevelt 
 dedicated it in 1903; on the same visit he performed the sadder 
 office of breaking ground at the eastern end of the park panhan- 
 dle for a monument to the memory of the martyred McKinley. 
 
 The morning of the great disaster saw this square filled with 
 a motley crowd— Chinese, Italians, grand opera singers and women 
 of the street, guests from the neighboring hotels with trunks 
 and hand baggage, refugees from south of Market street with 
 rolls of bedding and household pets-all happily characterized 
 as “ a succotash of civilization.” James Hopper, writing of that 
 dreadful morning, says, “ At Union Square my attention was ar- 
 rested by the sight of a man in pink pajamas, walking heel and 
 toe in his bare feet in a continuous circling of the Dewey column; 
 also by a tall, English-looking man with flowing whiskers, clad 
 in a long white nightshirt, who sat on a bench perpetually replac- 
 ing in the orbit of his left eye a monocle, which an involuntary 
 contraction immediately twitched out again.” 
 
 But the square saw many sadder scenes. Here early in the 
 day were brought some of the sick, wounded and dead from 
 south of Market street, to be taken further west as the fire pro- 
 gressed. Hundreds of trunks 
 piled in this square for safety 
 were later burned. One writer 
 saw a great truck load for 
 which a man was vainly try- 
 ing to get horses. When he 
 passed, a few hours later, “the 
 trunks were merrily burning.” 
 
 [8s] 
 
 Union Square in 1885. Calvary Presbyterian, 
 
 Congregational and Trinity Churches. 
 
SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 Facing Union Square, on Powell street, stands the St. Francis 
 Hotel. It was spared through Wednesday, but fire swept through 
 it during the early morning hours of the nineteenth, destroying 
 everything inflammable. The stone walls remained intadl,and the 
 kitchen and grill rooms in the basement were little injured. As, 
 after the flames had passed, they could soon be restored for use, 
 the management obtained permission to e red in Union Square a 
 temporary wooden building for housing its guests until the St. 
 Francis could be refitted. This building, known as the little 
 St. Francis, was removed when the need for it had passed. Union 
 Square is practically the center of the business portion of the city, 
 and its benches are frequented by men in all walks of life. Owing 
 to its central situation, it is used for displays of fireworks during 
 San Francisco’s frequent celebrations. 
 
 Jefferson Square.— Jefferson Square, with an area of eleven 
 and one-quarter acres, covering four blocks, lies between Golden 
 Gate avenue and Eddy street, Gough and Laguna streets. It 
 contains a variety of handsome trees, interspersed with groups of 
 shrubbery. The cars of the Turk and Eddy line pass its north- 
 ern boundary on Eddy street, returning through the middle on 
 Turk street. 
 
 This little park is interesting as the refuge of homeless 
 thousands during the nights of the great fire, and as the site of 
 one of the principal camps of refugees. Here in the midst of 
 whatever could be saved from the devouring flames, rested the 
 weary people, some with hand luggage and bundles of bedding; 
 others, if they had not come from too great a distance, with 
 trunks dragged hither by ropes. From here many of them scat- 
 tered to Golden Gate Park, the Presidio, or to the homes of 
 friends; but hundreds remained and soon the square was a vil- 
 lage of tents. As in the other 
 camps, wash houses and bath 
 houses, with hot and cold wat- 
 er, were provided, sterilized 
 water for drinking, and, for 
 the first five months, food 
 was furnished from a public 
 kitchen. Sanitary regulations 
 
 [ 86 ] 
 
 Union Square To-day. The Dewey Monument. 
 
When earth has Eden spots like this for man. 
 Why will he drag his life where lashing storms 
 Whip him indoors, the petulant weather's slave 
 There he is but a helpless, naked snail. 
 
 Except he wear his house close at his back. 
 
 Here the zcide air builds him his palace walls — 
 Some little corner of it roofed for sleep. 
 
 — From ‘ ‘ The Hermitage , ’ ’ by Edward Rowland Sill. 
 
THE SMALLER PARKS 
 
 were strictly enforced by the commander in charge. In October 
 the tents were replaced by three-room cottages, 158 sheltering 
 670 people. The square was not vacated until near the close 
 of 1907. Like Golden Gate Park, Jefferson Square quickly 
 recovered from the marks of its occupancy. Trees and shrubs 
 were little injured, and no permanent scars remained. 
 
 City Hall or Marshall SQUARE.-Between Market street 
 and City Hall avenue at Eighth street is a small square of historic 
 interest. It formed the approach to the City Hall, ereCted at a 
 cost of $7,000,000 and ruined (the shame of its poor construction 
 crying to heaven) by the earthquake and fire of 1906. This 
 square was a part of the old Yerba Buena cemetery, bounded by 
 Market, McAllister and Larkin streets. It was also the site of 
 the sandlot agitation of Dennis Kearney against the Chinese. He 
 died in Oakland a few years ago. 
 
 In this square stands a monument for which the late James 
 Lick left a bequest of $100,000 “to provide for a group which 
 should typify the growth of the State.” A heroic figure of Cali- 
 fornia with a grizzly bear at her feet surmounts a granite ped- 
 estal. Bronze medallions on the faces of the pedestal illustrate 
 scenes during the days of immigration and mining, while names 
 of men prominent in the early days encircle it. At the four cor- 
 ners, on separate pedestals,are bronze figures representing periods 
 of the State’s development. The sculptor was Frank Happen- 
 berger, a native of the State. 
 
 Before the monument, facing Market street, is a fine bronze 
 cannon taken at Santiago de Cuba in 1908. The workmanship 
 is beautiful, and its history, if one could learn it, must be most 
 interesting; for it is a French cannon made, or named, for the 
 Prince de Conde in 1754. The Latin mottoes,' “ultima ratio 
 regum ’’(the last resort of 
 kings), and“nec pluribus im- 
 par” (not unequal to many), 
 speak to us with a grim hu- 
 mor of days which we hope 
 are past forever. 
 
 This square is to be wi- 
 dened one hundred feet on 
 
 [87] 
 
 The Lick Statuary in Marshall Square. 
 
SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 each side,, to form a finer ap- 
 proach to the new civic cen- 
 ter, which will embrace the old 
 City Hall site and several 
 blocks west, between Larkin 
 street and Van Ness avenue. 
 
 Realizing the need of 
 the people for small parks 
 and breathing spaces near 
 
 Refugee Tents in a Small Park. Humorous Signs. their homes, especially as, 
 
 with the growth of the city, the population is likely to become 
 more congested, the builders of San Francisco have wisely pro- 
 vided for many small parks or plazas scattered throughout the 
 city. Most of these were camping places for refugees after the 
 fire, and some of these colonies, the tents replaced by wooden 
 cottages, occupied the squares far into the next year. Then those 
 who desired them were helped to buy these homes, to remove 
 to outlying portions of the city. Neatly disguised with shingled 
 sides, made comfortable with porches and small additions, perhaps 
 covered with vines and surrounded with flowers, these tempo- 
 rary shelters have become the permanent homes of many who 
 were stripped of their all by the hre. 
 
 Besides those previously enumerated, the smaller parks are 
 as follows: 
 
 Alamo Square crowns the Hayes Street hill and is easily 
 reached from Devisadero or Fillmore streets, 
 
 Alta Plaza and Lafayette Park are reached by the Jack- 
 son and Washington Street line. The former lies between Scott 
 and Steiner streets; the latter between Laguna and Gough. 
 
 Bernal Park is bounded on the north and south by Pre- 
 cita and Bernal avenues, and on the east and west by Alabama 
 and Folsom streets. Its area of a little over two acres is mostly 
 lawn, bordered by shade trees. 
 
 Columbia Square is bounded by Columbia, Harrison, 
 Sherman and Folsom streets, and is about two blocks south of 
 the Postoffice Building. It is two and one-half acres in extent. 
 It has given its name to the Columbia Park Boys’ Club, whose 
 headquarters are now on Guerrero street near Sixteenth, a noted 
 
 [ 88 ] 
 
THE SMALLER PARKS 
 
 organization, which has done a splendid work for the boys in that 
 part of the city. Major Sidney Peixotto is the commander. The 
 boys have an excellent band. They have been taken to Europe 
 and to Australia for concert tours, and often make shorter trips. 
 
 Duboce Park is north of Duboce avenue, and between 
 Steiner and Scott streets. 
 
 Franklin Square lies between Sixteenth street and Bry- 
 ant avenue, with an area of about four and one-half acres. 
 
 Garfield Square is bounded by Twenty-fifth and Twenty- 
 sixth streets, Harrison street and Treat avenue. 
 
 Hamilton Square is between Scott and Steiner streets, on 
 the Geary Street line. 
 
 Holly Park is bounded on all sides by Holly Park ave- 
 nue, and comprises seven and one-half acres. 
 
 Lincoln Park, the most recently acquired park territory, 
 consists of one hundred and fifty acres on Point Lobos, embrac- 
 ing the old City Cemetery. The property extends from Thirty- 
 third to Fortieth avenues on the north, and from Thirty-eighth 
 to Fortieth on the south. Fifty acres of the cemetery grounds 
 were taken by the Government for fortifications at Fort Miley. 
 A driveway overlooking Baker's Beach, connecting with the Pre- 
 sidio roadways, is projected. The views from here are magnificent. 
 Golf links are to be a feature of this park. 
 
 Lincoln Park is included in the territory set apart for the 
 Panama-Pacific International Exposition. It is proposed to pur- 
 chase a strip, one block wide through the Richmond district, 
 for a boulevard to conneCt it with the western end of Golden 
 Gate Park. This boulevard is to begin at Telegraph Hill, follow 
 the water front to the Harbor View site, thence to the Presidio, 
 and along the shore line of the Presidio to Lincoln Park. 
 
 Lobos Square is further 
 north, a block east of Fill- 
 more street, north of Chest- 
 nut. It is reached by the 
 Fillmore Street line. 
 
 Mission Park is the 
 largest of the parks south of 
 Market street. Its area is 
 
 [89] 
 
SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 fourteen acres. It is bounded by Dolores, Eighteenth, Church 
 and Twentieth streets. Here are tennis courts, a wading pool 
 and an athletic field, with grass plats, shade trees and shrubbery 
 to add to the attractions. 
 
 Mountain Lake Park, twenty acres in extent, lies north of 
 Lake street, between Seventh and Fourteenth avenues. The 
 Presidio Parkway connects it with Golden Gate Park. 
 
 Pioneer Park, on Telegraph Hill, is bounded on the north 
 and south by Greenwich and Filbert streets, and on the east and 
 west by Montgomery and Kearny. Although the attractions of 
 this park consists wholly in view, the picture formed by the 
 sparkling waters of the bay, the vessels plying to and fro, the 
 islands, the distant hills, with the blue Californian sky overarch- 
 ing all, generously rewards the spirit of the climber, while benches 
 placed in shady spots afford rest to his body. From the earliest 
 days this view was appreciated-several pioneer writers recorded 
 that cc it was a pleasant pastime at the close of the day to ascend 
 Telegraph Hill.” 
 
 The Kearny and North Beach cars go near the western base 
 of the hill whence, by way of Greenwich street, the ascent is more 
 easily made. Further improvement of this park and terraced 
 approaches are future possibilities. 
 
 South Park is bounded on the north and south by Bryant 
 and Brannan streets, on the east west by Second and Third. 
 H ere, in the Fifties and Sixties, lived many of the aristocracy of 
 the town. 
 
 Sunnyside Park is bounded on the north and south by 
 Thirty-second and Thirty-third streets, and on the east and 
 west by Twin Peaks avenue and Stanyan street. 
 
 Washington Square lies at the intersection of Montgom- 
 ery avenue and Union street. 
 It is in the Italian quarter 
 and is reached by the Union 
 Street line. 
 
 There are eight or ten addi- 
 tional unimproved reserva- 
 tions of various sizes in dif- 
 ferent parts of the city. 
 
 [ 9 °] 
 
 Telegraph Hill From the North Side in the Eighties. 
 
/ 
 
 Alcatraz Island — the Military Prison. 
 
 Chapter Seven • Government Reservations 
 
 T he Presidio is the United States Army Headquarters 
 for the Department of California. Although a Gov- 
 ernment reservation, its location, ample and well kept 
 grounds, shady walks and drives give it a place among 
 the parks and pleasure places of San Francisco. It 
 comprises 1,542 acres, more than half planted to groves of pine 
 and eucalyptus, with a shore line on ocean and bay of nearly 
 three miles. There are homes for the officers, surrounded by a 
 profusion of flowers, quarters for the unmarried men, barracks 
 and fields of tents for the private soldiers, parade grounds and 
 hospitals, forts and harbor defenses. From almost every point 
 are wonderful views of the Golden Gate and Marin County hills. 
 
 Four Presidios, or garrisons of soldiers, were established in 
 Alta California by the Spanish Government to guard their mis- 
 sions-one at San Diego, one at Monterey, one at San Francisco 
 and one at Santa Barbara, in the order named. Each is on a bay. 
 Over each has waved the flags of three Governments. The one 
 at San Francisco is now the most important. In June, 177 6, two 
 expeditions set out from Monterey, one by land and one by water, 
 to found a mission on the bay which was discovered by a land 
 expedition from San Diego in 1769, and named in honor of 
 St. Francis of Assisi. The land expedition reached the northern 
 part of the peninsula on June 27th. Besides Friars Palou and 
 Cambon, it consisted of a few married civilian settlers with their 
 large families, and seventeen dragoons (also married) under com- 
 mand of Don Jose Moraga, who was to be the Commandant of 
 the Presidio. They brought with them cattle, sheep, horses and 
 mules, field and garden seeds. While waiting for the ship, they 
 
 [9 1 ] 
 
SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 selected a site for the Presidio, which was to be the home of all 
 save the friars. They cut timber and began work on the simple 
 buildings which were to shelter them. They were ready for occu- 
 pancy by September 17th, the festival of the Stigmata of St. 
 Francis. On that day, solemn possession was taken of the Pre- 
 sidio by Palou in the name of his royal master, King of all the 
 Spains. The establishment was blessed, a cross was planted and 
 adorned, mass was celebrated, a Te Deum sung, and salutes were 
 fired on land and water. This was the first permanent settlement 
 of white men on the site of San Francisco. 
 
 In 1824, when Mexico became finally independent of Spain, 
 the Spanish flag gave place to the Mexican, Mexico having 
 retained California in her possession. 
 
 A visit to the Presidio in 1825 is thus described: “The Gov- 
 ernor’s abode stood in a corner of the Presidio and formed one 
 end of a row, of which the other was occupied by a chapel. The 
 opposite side was broken down and little better than a heap of 
 rubbish and bones on which jackals and vultures and dogs were 
 constantly preying. The other two sides of the quadrangle con- 
 tained storehouses, artificers’ shops and the jail, all built in the 
 humblest style, with badly burned bricks, and roofed with tiles. 
 Whether viewed at a distance or near, the establishment im- 
 pressed the spectator with any other sentiment than that of its 
 being a place of authority and, but for the tottering flagstaff 
 upon which was occasionally displayed the tri-colored flag of 
 Mexico, three rusty field pieces and a half-accoutred sentinel 
 parading the gateway, a visitor would be ignorant of the impor- 
 tance of the place.” 
 
 Richard H. Dana, in his Two Tears Before the Mast , alludes 
 to the “ruinous Presidio, some five or six miles beyond the land- 
 ing place.” This was in 1 83 5. 
 The landing place was Yerba 
 Buena cove. When he visited 
 San Francisco twenty-four 
 years later, he had something 
 better to tell us of it.“I took 
 a California horse of old style 
 (the loping gait) and visited 
 
 [92] 
 
 Looking Over the Presidio to the Golden Gate. 
 

 A Presidio Walk. 
 
 Where “Rose and Honeysuckle 
 Intertwine.” Photograph 
 by Gabriel Moulin. 
 
At the Presidio of San Francisco. 
 
 The rose and honeysuckle intertwine 
 
 Their fond arms here in beauty’s own sweet way 
 Here loveliest grasses never know decay , 
 
 And every wall is eloquent with vine ; 
 
 Far-reaching ave?iues make beckoning sign , 
 
 Where, as we stroll in lingering, glad delay. 
 
 The trilling songster glorifies the sway 
 That gives to him inviolable shrine. 
 
 And yet, within this beauty-haunted place 
 
 War keeps his dreadful engines at command. 
 With frowning brow and unrelaxing hand; 
 
 And as we saunter on in pensive pace. 
 
 We start to see,’ mid these so lovely bowers, 
 
 A tiger sleeping on a bed of flowers. 
 
 — Edward Robeson Taylor. 
 
GOVERNMENT RESERVATIONS 
 
 the Presidio. The walls stand as they did, with some changes 
 made to accommodate a small garrison of United States troops. 
 It has a noble situation and I saw from it a clipper ship of the 
 very largest class coming through the Gate, under her fore and 
 aft sails. Thence I rode to the fort, now nearly finished, on the 
 southern shore of the Gate, and made an inspection of it. It is 
 very expensive and of the latest style. One of the engineers here 
 is Custis Lee, who has just left West Point at the head of his 
 class, a son of Colonel Robert E. Lee, who distinguished him- 
 self in the Mexican War.” The fort with the expensive equip- 
 ment is old Fort Winfield Scott at Fort Point. It was begun in 
 1854, taking the place of the Mexican Fort Blanco. It was about 
 seven years building and cost $2, 000, 000. Now, of course, it is 
 hopelessly out of date. 
 
 In 1846, between Dana’s two visits, the American flag was 
 raised in all the Presidios of California. When gold discovery 
 rapidly increased the population of San Francisco, the Presidio 
 became more and more important. It is now one of the most 
 desirable military posts and one of the most strongly fortified. 
 Two mammoth guns can here be seen, each shot of which costs 
 $1,000. There are twelve-inch mortars capable of throwing an 
 800-pound shell five miles. 
 
 During our war with Spain, the Presidio was a scene of great 
 activity. It was the chief point of departure of our soldiers for 
 the Philippines. The bodies of thousands sacrificed there rest 
 in its cemeteries. Every returning transport adds a few to the 
 number. 
 
 Linked with the Presidio is the sad story of Dona Concep- 
 cion Arguello, the beautiful daughter of Don Jose Arguello, the 
 Commandante of the Presidio in 1806, and sister of Don Luis 
 Arguello, who is buried close 
 to the old Mission church. 
 
 Rezanov, chamberlain of the 
 Russian emperor, came in the 
 interest of the Imperial Rus- 
 sian-American FurCompany 
 to negotiate for Russian set- 
 tlements in California, While 
 
 [93] 
 
 Fort Scott, Lime Point Opposite. Narrowest 
 Part of Golden Gate. 
 
SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 diplomacy made its slow way 
 “He from 
 magnates c 
 
 talk apart. With the Com- 
 mandante’s daughter on the 
 questions of the heart.” He 
 won her heart, and sailed 
 away to report the result of 
 his negotiations, and to gain 
 the consent of his Emperor 
 to his marriage. Months and years drifted by, but no word came 
 from the absent lover to Dona Concepcion by the Golden Gate. 
 
 “Day by day on wall and bastion beat the hollow, empty breeze; 
 
 Day by day the sunlight glittered on the vacant smiling seas ; 
 
 Week by week the near hills whitened in their dusty leather cloaks; 
 
 Week by week the far hills darkened from the fringing plain of oaks 
 Till the rains came, and far breaking, on the fierce southwester tost. 
 
 Dashed the whole long coast with color, and then vanished and were lost. 
 
 “So each year the seasons shifted, wet and warm, and drear and dry : 
 
 Half a year of clouds and flowers, half a year of dust and sky— 
 
 Still it brought no ship, nor message, brought no tidings, ill or meet. 
 
 For the statesmanlike commander, for the daughter fair and sweet.’ ’ 
 
 So she waited, “Until hollows chased the dimples from her 
 cheeks of olive brown.” Many years afterwards, Sir George Simp- 
 son, in his journey around the world, brought the news that 
 Rezanov was killed by a fall from his horse while crossing Siberia 
 on his homeward journey. Suspense ended, hope crushed out. 
 Dona Concepcion became a nun. Bret Harte has woven the 
 pathetic tale into a poem, and Gertrude Atherton has embodied 
 it in her novel, Rezanov . 
 
 The Presidio Parkway conne&s Golden Gate Park with the 
 Presidio. It is a boulevard, one mile long, between Thirteenth 
 and Fourteenth avenues, extending from Fulton street on the 
 northern boundary of the park to the southern line of the Gov- 
 ernment Reservation, entering at a point near the old United 
 States Marine Hospital, passing Mountain Lake Park. There 
 is a main driveway with a path fifteen feet wide paralleling it on 
 each side, two feet higher than the driveway and connected with 
 
 [94] 
 
 grave provincial 
 ft had turned to 
 
GOVERNMENT RESERVATIONS 
 
 it by a grassy slope ten feet wide. Along this slope are shade 
 trees with flowering shrubs between. Outside the paths are wide 
 strips, outlined with grassy borders, planted with trees and shrubs. 
 
 The McDowell Avenue drive in the Presidio is an impres- 
 sive one. It begins at the left of the Central Avenue entrance, 
 skirts along Baker’s Beach and passes some of the big disappear- 
 ing guns of our harbor defense. 
 
 The Presidio is easily reached by car line. Its tree-bordered 
 paths and wide stretches of field and wood make walking in the 
 grounds a pleasure. The Union Street car line goes diredtly 
 there from the ferry, but the best route for the pedestrian is to 
 take a Jackson Street car on Sutter street to the Central Avenue 
 entrance. Here is a shady path where the trees meet in an arcade 
 overhead. The walk is rather long, but downhill all the way, 
 joining finally the main road which leads to the hospital build- 
 ings. On both sides of the main road are the officers’ quarters 
 with lawns, trees and abundant flowers. A walk, bordered by 
 cannon balls in a space between two yards, leads to the parade 
 ground. Following the main road down a little farther, and 
 turning to the right, between two hedges of flowers, the way 
 leads to a long white bridge, or elevated sidewalk, probably paced 
 by a sentry. This leads to the Union Street car line, which runs 
 a short distance into the grounds. 
 
 Near the foot of Van Ness avenue is Black Point, once the 
 home of John C. Fremont and his brilliant wife, Jessie Benton. 
 This is now a Government Reservation. Here is Fort Mason, 
 the home of the Commandant. This place, as well as the Pre- 
 sidio, was a refuge for homeless ones in April, 1906. For two 
 days and nights the unending procession crept along Van Ness 
 avenue, seeking safety, shelter and food. Tents were given out 
 at once from the stores of the 
 Presidio, followed soon by 
 shoes and army clothing for 
 those who were in need of 
 them. Kitchens were estab- 
 lished, water, food and milk 
 distributed and the whole 
 machinery of army organiza- 
 
 [95] 
 
 To the Parade Ground. 
 
SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 tion was set going in deeds 
 of mercy. 
 
 The northern point of 
 the Presidio, which is also 
 the most northern of the pen- 
 insula, is called Fort Point. 
 Here is old Fort Winfield 
 | Scott, no longer used for de- 
 fense. Opposite can be seen 
 
 Lighthouse, Yerha Buena Island. the white buildings of the 
 
 lighthouse and Fort Baker at Lime Point, in Marin county. 
 This is the narrowest part of the Golden Gate, one mile across. 
 
 At the Government Reservation of fifty acres on Point Lobos 
 (point of wolves) are the fortifications of Fort Miley, which, with 
 the lighthouse and defenses on Point Bonita (pretty point) oppo- 
 site, guard the western entrance to the bay. 
 
 Alcatraz Island.— This is a small island of pi&uresque 
 outline, just opposite the entrance of the Golden Gate into the 
 bay. Its Spanish name perpetuates the pelicans, which once fre- 
 quented it. Its rugged lines and steep shores suggest the Chateau 
 dTf to readers of Dumas. Here is the military prison and a light- 
 house which can be seen nineteen miles at sea. There is a sub- 
 marine torpedo station here, and a fog bell. The Sausalito ferry 
 boats pass very near this island. 
 
 Yerba Buena or Goat Island.— This island was named by 
 the Spaniards for the Yerba Buena, or“good herb,” abounding 
 on the island, and which was used by them medicinally. Probably 
 the island first bore the name which later was given to the cove. 
 This, in turn, gave its name to the settlement on its shores. In 
 later years, vessels entering the bay turned loose on the island 
 superfluous goats, which had been brought for fresh meat on the 
 voyage. Breeding there, they soon covered the island, and gave 
 it its second name. 
 
 Richard H. Dana, in 183 5, wrote of the cc large and beauti- 
 fully wooded islands of the bay,” so we may infer that Yerba 
 Buena was once clothed with trees. 
 
 The island contains 350 acres. A Naval Training School 
 is located here. There is also a lighthouse and fog signal. 
 
 [96] 
 
GOVERNMENT RESERVATIONS 
 
 Angel IsLAND.-Juan Bautista de Ayala, who, in August, 
 1775, sailed through the Golden Gate in the San Carlos, gave to 
 what is now known as Angel Island the name of Isla de Nuestra 
 Senora de Los Angeles-too long a name for hurried Americans. 
 Richard H. Dana, writing of it in 1 835, says cc a small island about 
 two leagues from the anchorage, called by us Wood island and 
 by the Spaniards Isla de Los Angeles, was covered with trees to 
 the water’s edge.” He added that great numbers of deer overran 
 the islands and hills of San Francisco bay. 
 
 This island contains about 600 acres. On its northern side 
 is the Quarantine Station, one of the largest and best equipped 
 in the world. On the western shore is the Army Po^st, Fort 
 McDowell. On the eastern shore is the Army Discharge Camp. 
 The Immigration Station is a place of great interest on the arrival 
 of foreign ships. Our immigrants are now mostly from oriental 
 countries, but with the opening of the Panama canal, the station 
 will rival Ellis Island in the number and variety of those who 
 pass through its gates. A military road encircles the island. Per- 
 mits to visit the islands may be obtained from army headquarters. 
 
 Mare Island.— This island is in the northern part of the 
 bay, opposite the city of Vallejo. It is reached by the steamboats 
 of the Monticello line and by ferry from Vallejo. It is the chief 
 naval station of the Pacific, with a large drydock. 
 
 William Heath Davis, in his Sixty Tears in California, says-. 
 cc On Mare Island, from 1840 to 1843, were as many as 3,000 
 elk. They crossed to the mainland and recrossed by swimming. 
 They were all killed for their hides and tallow.” 
 
 The Government has spent millions of dollars here. The 
 drydock is large enough to hold the great war vessels, and here 
 they may be seen, undergoing repairs. In contrast to these 
 modern fighting ships may 
 be seen many obselete ones. 
 
 The old Man-of-War Inde- 
 pendence, which fought in 
 the war of 1812, and some 
 of the Spanish ships captured 
 by Admiral Dewey in Man- 
 ila bay, are here. 
 
 [97] 
 
 Naval Training School on Yerba Buena Island. 
 
 I '■ 
 
Mission Church in 1865. Old Hotel, the Mansion House. 
 
 Chapter Right • The Old Mission 
 
 T he pious fathers and the soldiers who pressed their 
 weary way northward, where white man’s foot had 
 never trod, had no thought of romance. The fathers 
 came to win the land for Christ; the soldiers came 
 to guard them, and to hold the land for Spain. But 
 as those days, so strangely different from our own, have receded 
 into the past, they have become to us more and more romantic. 
 As we gaze at the fa$ade of the old church, at the thick adobe 
 walls, at the quaint tiled roof and the cc Bells of the Past” lashed 
 to their beams with rawhide thongs, they have the power to call 
 up a series of pictures and to shed over them the“color of romance” 
 as nothing else in San Francisco can. 
 
 In the dream pageant which passes before our eyes we see 
 first the little band of soldiers, with Father Font and Commanders 
 Anza and Moraga at their head, struggling over the sandy hills, 
 from the already selected site of the Presidio, to find a fertile, 
 sheltered spot for the mission. A level, grassy plain, near a small 
 lake, and cc a stream of sweet waters,” invites them. It being in 
 the last days of Lent, the name of Our Lady of Sorrows is given 
 to the lake and creek, the Laguna and Arroyo de Nuestra Senora 
 de Los Dolores. The site is fixed upon and this picture fades 
 away, for these are not the founders of the mission. 
 
 A few months later, another cavalcade comes into view, this 
 time from the south, a long line of soldiers, settlers with their 
 families, horses and cattle, Moraga at their head with Fathers 
 Palou and Cambon. We see them make their camp and pitch 
 their tents, fifteen in number, on the grassy plain near the lake. 
 The next day a booth of brush, with a simple altar, is added to 
 
 [98] 
 
The Mission To-day. 
 Photograph by Gabriel Moulin, 
 
The Angelus 
 
 Bells of the Past , whose long-forgotten music 
 Still fills the wide expanse 
 
 Tingeing the sober twilight of the Present 
 With color of Romance , 
 
 I hear your call, and see the sun descending 
 On rock and wave and sand. 
 
 As down the coast the Mission voices, blending , 
 Girdle the heathen land. 
 
 * * * 
 
 Borne on the swell of your long waves receding 
 I touch the farther Past— 
 
 I see the dying glow of Spanish glory. 
 
 The sunset dream and last ; 
 
 * * * 
 
 Once more I see Porto la’ s cross uplifting 
 Above the setting sun ; 
 
 And past the headland, northward, slowly drifting 
 The freighted galleon . 
 
 — Bret Harte 
 
THE OLD MISSION 
 
 the pi&ure, and on the following day, June 29th, we see them 
 all gathered to witness the celebration of the first mass at Dolores. 
 
 Again the picture changes. Most of the company have 
 moved north on the peninsula and are working on the buildings 
 of the Presidio. The band at the mission site is now only the 
 two missionaries, their three Indian servants and six soldiers. 
 The cattle are left with them, to graze over the fertile plains. 
 
 The scene moves on. The San Carlos has arrived and, when 
 the rude buildings of the Presidio are completed, Quiros, the 
 commander of the ship, his chaplain, one of his pilots, the sur- 
 geon and some of the sailors come over to the lake, and soon 
 we see them busy, helping the missionaries to build shelter for 
 themselves and a temporary church. Some are driving in the 
 poles of the palisade walls, some are plastering them with mud. 
 When the roofs of tule thatch are added, all is ready. The church 
 is to be dedicated and the work of converting the Indians to begin. 
 The formal celebration of the foundation of the mission was to 
 have been on the feast day of St. Francis, October 4th; but, 
 Moraga being absent, it was postponed till his return. 
 
 The next picture is that of Odober 9, 1776, the day of the 
 celebration. The rude church and simple altar are hung around 
 with flags and pennants brought from the San Carlos. We see 
 all the people in procession, bearing an image of St. Francis to 
 the altar, where it is placed. Mass is said, and the Mission of 
 San Francisco d’ Assisi, projected seven years before, has become 
 a reality. A year passes, and we have a glimpse of Father Junipero 
 Serra, the presidente of the missions, on his first visit. He had 
 longed for a mission dedicated to his beloved St. Francis, the 
 founder of his order, and now he sees his hopes realized. The 
 church is little more than a hut, but in it he celebrates mass before 
 seventeen adult Indian con- 
 verts. He passes over to the 
 Presidio, thanking God that 
 “now our Father St. Francis, 
 with the Holy Cross of the 
 Procession of the Missions, 
 has reached the last limit of 
 the Californian continent.” 
 
 [99] 
 
SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 But no thought enters his 
 mind of the great city which 
 is to arise from this begin- 
 ning. 
 
 The next scene brings 
 us to April 25, 1782, when 
 the cornerstone of the new 
 church was laid. This is to 
 be our own church which 
 we visit to-day. The Indians 
 have been gathered in and taught useful arts, as well as religion. 
 They can hew and dress the wood, and make the sun-dried bricks; 
 the fathers directing the work. We see the troops from the 
 Presidio again engaged in a solemn ceremonial. In the corner- 
 stone is enclosed an image of St. Francis, some relics in the form 
 of bones of St. Pius, and of other holy martyrs, medals of various 
 saints, and silver coins. This foundation stone of the new church 
 is laid about one thousand varas southeast of the first one. 
 
 For our nextpi&ure of the mission we are indebted to Van- 
 couver, who visited it in 1793. Buildings have been added and 
 form two sides of a quadrangle. They are made of adobe, or sun- 
 dried bricks. The huts of the Indians are made of willow poles 
 woven with twigs; all are thatched with grass and tule. In one 
 large room are Indians weaving, on the looms they have built, 
 blankets from wool they have raised. On other looms, they are 
 weaving their clothing. They are making soap and tanning hides. 
 The stock, small and large, has increased to thousands. Hun- 
 dreds of Indians have been baptized. In 1795, we see pottery 
 making added to the industries. The church and other buildings 
 are roofed with tiles. 
 
 Dr. Langsdorff, who accompanied the Russian chamberlain, 
 Rezanov, in 1 806, paints a pleasant pid;ure for us. He commends 
 the lives of the padres at the mission, praising their self-sacrifice. 
 He speaks of the industries of the Indians, of the skill of the 
 women in basket weaving, and of the herds of cattle and horses. 
 
 General Vallejo, in his oration at the centennial celebration 
 of the founding of the mission, gives us another bright picture. 
 “In one of my journeys to San Francisco, during the year 1826, 
 
 [i°°] 
 
THE OLD MISSION 
 
 I found this mission in all its splendor and state of preservation, 
 consisting at that time of one church, the residence of the rev- 
 erend fathers, granaries, warehouses for merchandise, guard- 
 house for the soldiers, prison, an orchard of fruit trees and vege- 
 table garden, cemetery, the entire rancheria or Indian village, all 
 constructed of adobe houses with tile roofs, the whole laid out 
 with great regularity, forming streets; and a tannery and a soap 
 factory. That is to say, on that portion which actually lies between 
 Church, Dolores and Guerrero streets from north to south, and 
 between Fifteenth and Seventeenth streets from east to west.” 
 
 These were the golden days of the missions. In 1825, that 
 of St. Francis is said to have possessed 76,000 head of cattle, 
 more than 3,000 horses, nearly 1,000 mules, 2,000 hogs, 79,000 
 sheep and 456 oxen. Besides this stock, in the granaries were 
 18,000 bushels of wheat and barley, in the storehouses $3 5,000 
 worth of merchandise, and $25,000 in gold and silver coin. Fruits 
 and vegetables from their orchards and gardens, wine from their 
 own vineyards, enriched the table of the padres. The stranger 
 was made welcome to their best, the spent horse was exchanged 
 for the pick of their herds, recompense was refused and, cheered 
 and refreshed, the traveler was sent on his way with a blessing. 
 For many years the missions, about a day’s horseback journey 
 apart, were the only places where a traveler could find rest and 
 food. Business with other nations was in the hands of the padres. 
 The coast trade was mostly in hides and tallow, with grain for 
 the Russian settlements. But these days were numbered. 
 
 The pictures grow more sombre; the good days of the mis- 
 sion have passed. In 1835 it was secularized, the Indians were 
 scattered, and there is no record of any of the property being 
 divided among them, as was the case with some of the missions 
 at secularization. The prop- 
 erty, consisting of real estate, 
 church property and the live- 
 stock, was valued at about 
 $60,000. Anticipating sec- 
 ularization, the padres had 
 sold off the cattle and allowed 
 the herds to diminish. In 
 
 [i°t] 
 
 The Mission in 1849. 
 
The Mission in 1856. 
 
 SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 1845 Pi° F i c ° issued a pro- 
 clamation to the Indians of 
 the mission, enjoining them 
 to reunite and occupy the 
 property or it would be de- 
 clared abandoned and would 
 be disposed of; but the In- 
 dians did not come back. The 
 church was returned to the 
 custody of the Archbishop, 
 under whose care it still remains. When Captain Montgomery 
 raised his flag in Portsmouth Square and proclaimed California 
 a part of the United States, the days of the mission as a living 
 force had passed away forever. But though now our interest is 
 largely transferred to the settlement on the bay, the pictures of 
 the mission do not cease to unroll before us. 
 
 Dana comes, serving before the mast in the good ship Pil- 
 grim, from Boston. For more than a year his ship went up and 
 down the coast, collecting its cargo of hides from the missions 
 and the great Spanish ranches. He gives us only a line or two 
 of Mission Dolores at this time, cc as ruinous as the Presidio, 
 almost deserted, with but few Indians attached to it and but little 
 property;” but we have through him vivid pictures of the traffic 
 in hides, from the rounding up of the cattle to the stowing of the 
 ship, and of life at other missions, and in the seaport towns of those 
 days. Twenty-four years later he visited San Francisco, and gives 
 us another glimpse of the mission. “It had a strangely solitary 
 aspect, enhanced by its surroundings of the most uncongenial, 
 rapidly growing modernisms, the hoar of ages surrounded by the 
 brightest, slightest and rapidest of growths. Its old belfry still 
 clanged with the discordant bells; mass is saying within, for it was 
 used as a place of worship for the extreme south part of the city.” 
 Next we see Bayard Taylor leaving San Francisco one after- 
 noon in 1849 an d wading through the three miles of deep sand 
 to the mission. Following him over the hills that same eve- 
 ning to the Sanchez rancho, we see him at the cc large adobe house, 
 the ruins of a former mission.” This is an interesting glimpse of 
 something now wholly obliterated. 
 
 [102] 
 
THE OLD MISSION 
 
 The same year we see the Reverend Albert Williams “with 
 one saddle horse for the common use of our party of four. Our 
 route lay through St. Ann’s and Hayes Valleys and over inter- 
 vening sandhills. St. Ann’s Valley was overspread with a thick 
 grove of scraggy dwarf oaks. * * In Hayes Valley we pause to 
 regale ourselves with its luscious wild strawberries. With ups and 
 downs and winding courses, it is a good three miles to the mis- 
 sion premises. Here a novel sight of old and new, Spanish and 
 American, was presented to our view. The principal mission 
 buildings still stood, their massive adobe walls crumbling into 
 decay, the church in partial ruin, its interior dark, gloomy and 
 uncomfortable, an earthen floor, and here and there a plain 
 plank bench, the pidlures upon the walls partaking also of the 
 general dilapidation. The apartments next to the church were 
 occupied by Father Santillan, the remaining portions of the build- 
 ing, former residences of the padres, were occupied by intruding 
 adventurers, under color of squatter right. * * At intervals, in the 
 vicinity of the church were a few adobe dwellings of Californian 
 families. This suburb of San Francisco, in its quiet rural repose, 
 presented a scene in striking contrast with the bustling activity of 
 the city on the bay.” Mr. Williams tells us that in 1853 a plank 
 road was built to the Mission, and that when lumber was $300 
 a thousand feet. 
 
 In his book, Life on the Pacific Coasts Mr. S. D. Woods, 
 writing of the early Fifties, says that the Mission was reached 
 by a plank road running along what is now Mission street, a 
 toll road, leading across marsh lands which covered this portion 
 of the town. The toll was profitable to its owners, as well it 
 might be at a half-dollar for a one-horse rockaway, since it was 
 the only means of communication with the Mission. 
 
 Weseein 1855, through 
 the pen of Charles Warren 
 Stoddard, two plank roads 
 leading from the city to the 
 Mission, over each of which 
 omnibuses ran every half- 
 hour. “The plank road, a 
 straight and narrow way, cut 
 
 io 3 ] 
 
 Interior of Mission Church. Ceiling Decorated 
 by Indians. 
 
SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 through acres of chaparral, leading over forbidding wastes of 
 sand,” which, shifting, at times covered the roadway. The Mis- 
 sion he remembers “as a detached settlement, with pronounced 
 Spanish flavor. There was one street worth mentioning and only 
 one. It was lined with low-walled adobe houses, roofed with the 
 red curved tiles which add so much to the adobe houses that 
 otherwise would be far from picturesque— there were a few ram- 
 shackle hotels at the Mission, for in the early days everybody 
 either boarded or took in boarders, and many families lived for 
 years in hotels rather than attempt to keep house in the wilds 
 of San Francisco. The Mission was about one house deep on 
 either side of the main street. You might have turned a corner 
 and found yourself face to face with cattle in a meadow. At the 
 top of this street stood the mission church, and what few mission 
 buildings were left for the use of the fathers. The church and 
 grounds were the most interesting features of the place, and it 
 was a favorite resort of the citizens of San Francisco, yet it most 
 likely would not have been were the church the sole attraction. 
 Here, in appropriate enclosures, there were bull-fighting, bear- 
 baiting and horse-racing. Many duels were fought here and some 
 of them were so well advertised that they drew almost as well as 
 a cock-fight. Cock-fighting was a special Sunday diversion.” 
 
 And no better pen than Stoddard’s can draw for us one of 
 the last pictures of the old church. “The first families of the 
 faithful lie under its eaves in their long and peaceful sleep, hap- 
 pily unmindful of the great changes that have come over the spirit 
 of all our dreams. The old adobes have returned to the dust, 
 even as the hands of those who fashioned them more than a cen- 
 tury ago. Very modern houses have crowded upon the old church 
 and churchyard, and they seem to have become the merest shad- 
 ows of their former selves; 
 while the roof-tree of the new 
 church soars into space, and 
 its wide walls— out of all pro- 
 portion to the Dolores of 
 departed days-are but em- 
 blematic of the new spirit 
 of the age.” But the “roof- 
 
 [ 1 ° 4 ] 
 
 The Mission and the Brick Church “Soaring Into Space.” 
 
Monument to 
 Father Junipero Serra. 
 Erected in Golden Gate Park 
 by the Native Sons of the 
 Golden West. 
 
At the Grave of Serra. 
 
 * * O heart! 
 
 Flaming , audacious heart , jo long in dust ! 
 
 Twas thy reward to die ere died thy works , 
 
 To perish ere the Vision too was fled. 
 
 The Vineyard and the orchard and the fold 
 Have passed , and passed as well that other Flock , 
 Thy tenderest concern , O spirit pure! 
 
 Who , of infamy and gold , 
 
 souls alone . * * 
 
 ■ — George Sterling 
 
THE OLD MISSION 
 
 tree soaring into space” and “the wide walls” were laid low, while 
 the old church, which had weathered so many storms, came trium- 
 phantly through another. The earthquake had no effeCt upon 
 its thick walls and huge beams, while wide Dolores street saved 
 it from devouring flames. 
 
 This last dramatic scene is a fitting close to our series of 
 romantic mission pictures. In the great fire of April, 1906, the 
 flames raged for four days, and swept over the entire distance of 
 three miles from the Ferry Building to Dolores street, where the 
 mission is located. The eastern side of this street was devoured, 
 but here the fire stopped and the mission, just across the street, 
 was untouched. After the fire ceased, all the works of the hand 
 of man, for three miles, from the mission to the bay, had been 
 obliterated, while the old church stood, as a century and a quarter 
 before, looking with unbroken vision to the bay. May it stand 
 many years longer, reminding our children unto the third and 
 fourth generation of the self-sacrifice and spiritual enthusiasm 
 through which this city had its birth. Its adobe sides are now 
 covered with wood for protection. Mounting to the gallery within, 
 one may, by stepping on a bench and peering into the roof, see 
 the old redwood beams lashed together with rawhide thongs, 
 speaking pathetically of the difficulties the padres had to surmount 
 with their lack of suitable materials and skilled workmen. There 
 was no iron for nails, their tools were few and simple, everything 
 must be manufactured from raw material by raw material, and 
 the two sorts of raw material were brought together with diffi- 
 culty. Truly, if genius is “capacity for taking infinite pains,” the 
 padres were men of genius. 
 
 For one reason or another, after many years of use as a par- 
 ish church, the interior had been stripped of its pictures and altar 
 decorations. To Miss Nora 
 Fennell is due the restora- 
 tion. She had been brought 
 up near the mission, attended 
 church there in her child- 
 hood, and she loved it. The 
 children and grandchildren 
 of the early settlers about the 
 
 io 5 ] 
 
 Beams in Roof Lashed Together With Rawhide Thongs. 
 
SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 mission helped her with contributions. She knew where the 
 missing decorations were stored and in 1903 all were brought 
 together in their former places, a happy restoration. The altar 
 stands to-day just as when it came from the Franciscan college in 
 Mexico. It is the same altar before which, in 1784, Father Palou 
 united in marriage Don Jose Joaquin Moraga, the commander of 
 the expedition which founded the mission, and Maria Bernal. 
 Beneath that altar Moraga sleeps. 
 
 It is only by good fortune that one finds the door open, though 
 often it is possible to obtain entrance by applying at the church 
 at the side or at the priests’ residence. The Catholic Church has 
 often been blamed for allowing the missions to perish through 
 neglect or, as in the case of San Francisco, for not making pro- 
 vision for the public to visit freely so interesting a relic, but the 
 criticism seems unjust. The mission of the Church is the salva- 
 tion of souls, not the preservation of historic spots, however 
 interesting. That function belongs to the State or community. 
 Dear though the place may be to the Church, if its usefulness to 
 her has passed, she has no right to divert for its care funds needed 
 for a more precious purpose. The missions have passed; some 
 are inclined to belittle the work they performed, but, however 
 one judges them, the fad: remains that to them is due the first 
 colonization of California and the birth of her chief city. 
 
 A word about the name of the church. It is usually called 
 the Mission Dolores. Its real name is Mission de San Francisco 
 d’Asis, the Spanish for St. Francis of Assisi. Being near the stream 
 called Arroyo de Nuestra Seiiora de Los Dolores (Americanized 
 as Dolores creek), it was often called Mission San Francisco 
 Dolores, to distinguish it from San Francisco de Solano (mission 
 at Sonoma). This in turn was shortened to Dolores. 
 
 The old graveyard, next to 
 the church and contemporary 
 with it, is described in the 
 chapter on “Cemeteries.” 
 The mission is reached by 
 Valencia Street car on Mar- 
 ket, or the Sixteenth Street 
 car on Fillmore street. 
 
 [i°6] 
 
 Mission in the Seventies. Cemetery and Convent Wall. 
 
German Lutheran Church, From Jefferson Park. 
 
 Chapter Nine • Churches 
 
 ± mong- those who do not know San Francisco well, she bears 
 at best the reputation of a gay, light-hearted city, wholly 
 /— m given over to frivolity and pleasure-seeking, and Jere- 
 1 jL miahs are plentiful to deplore her unregenerate state 
 and denounce her as the wickedest of cities, even point- 
 ing a moral with our great disaster of 1906. Whereas, in truth, 
 as in all cities, good and evil walk side by side. If pleasure is 
 too eagerly pursued by San Franciscans, it is because eagerness 
 is one of their characteristics, and it is as marked in the line of 
 righteousness as in that of pleasure. If vice does not by hypoc- 
 risy pay its tribute to virtue, it does not mean that it is more 
 prevalent than in other cities, only that it is less hidden, or better 
 aired; if the stranger within its gates knows no better way of 
 “seeing the town” than in looking for vice and adding his im- 
 ported quota to what he finds, it means that guides have profited 
 by San Francisco's reputation as a gay city. Alas! in any city 
 when one looks for vice, it may be found. Unfortunately, as 
 Reverend G. G. Eldredge has said in an article on The True San 
 Francisco , “There are no ‘guides’ to take the tourist to visit the 
 missions, rescue homes, social settlements and churches”— yet who- 
 ever seeks for the better things of which a city should be proud 
 shall find them in San Francisco in abundance. 
 
 And again, of the early days in San Francisco, another writer 
 says, “The chief contribution of the world to California from 
 1840 to 1849 was a virile manhood in which was mingled all 
 the noblest qualities of mind and heart.” This charadleristic per- 
 sisted through the trying later years when along with the strong 
 and virtuous came many of the weak and vicious; and, reading the 
 
 [ 1 °7 ] 
 
SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 diaries of both ministers and 
 laymen of the Fifties and Six- 
 ties,one is struck by the trib- 
 bute most of them pay to the 
 religious force of the city. 
 They agree that along with 
 the wild and reckless element 
 marched a sturdy, God-fear- 
 ing people in sufficient num- 
 bers to enforce a Christian 
 sabbath, to build and maintain churches, fill them to overflowing 
 and call to them some of the strongest ministers and best preach- 
 ing talent of the land. It has been well said, “the gold-seekers 
 were hardly here before the soul-seekers,” and the latter made as 
 great sacrifices, worked as strenuously and with as great results as 
 the former. San Francisco was founded as a mission and she has 
 not been unmindful of her birth. As with the discovery of gold 
 the little hamlet suddenly expanded into a city, ministers of the 
 various Protestant denominations were hastened to the spot, and 
 in 1851 San Francisco had nine Protestant churches and the old 
 mission church to minister to the Catholics— certainly a worthy 
 showing. Planted in the new soil by Missionary Boards, the 
 churches before long became self-supporting and in turn spread 
 through the State and reached out to foreign fields. 
 
 The Methodists were first with a church organization in 1 847, 
 but did not have a building until 1850. The Congregationalists 
 organized in 1849; their first house of worship was dedicated in 
 1853. It was on the southwest corner of Dupont and California 
 streets. The pastor was the Reverend T. Dwight Hunt, the first 
 regular Protestant clergyman in California. He came from Hon- 
 olulu in 1848 and was made chaplain of the settlement. 
 
 The first house of worship built in California, outside of the 
 old Spanish missions, was a meeting-house for the First Baptist 
 Church of San Francisco, built on Washington street in 1849. It 
 was only thirty by fifty feet and had for a roof old ship sails, yet 
 it cost $ 6,000 in gold. The First Presbyterian Church of San 
 Francisco was organized early in 1849 by the Reverend Albert 
 Williams, its pastor for four years. A tent at Dupont street, 
 
 [108] 
 
CHURCHES 
 
 between Pacific street and Broadway, might be called their first 
 church home, though they had previously met in the school house 
 near Portsmouth Square and in the City Hall. The tent was sup- 
 planted by a pretty church on the west side of Stockton street, 
 between Pacific street and Broadway. This building (ready to 
 put up, pulpit, pews and all complete) was sent from New York 
 around the Horn. It was opened and dedicated in January, 
 1851, soon, alas, to be destroyed by fire. Howard Presbyterian 
 Church was organized in 1850 by the Reverend Doctor Willey, 
 one of the founders of the University of California, and still living. 
 
 An Episcopal church, similar to the First Baptist, was built 
 in 1850. Its cost was $8,000 in gold. When the contribution 
 plate was passed at the first service, nothing less than gold coin 
 was placed on it. 
 
 Because in many instances the various church bodies have 
 preferred to put their money in missions (city, home or foreign) 
 rather than in costly edifices, generally speaking San Francisco’s 
 later church buildings have not kept pace with her building in 
 other lines, nevertheless, a number of them are, for various rea- 
 sons, worthy of note. 
 
 First in the hearts of those who love San Francisco for her 
 unique artistic spots is the little Swedenborgian church on the 
 corner of Washington and Lyon streets. But it is to something 
 deeper than the artistic sense that the quiet loveliness of this 
 church appeals; an island of simple beauty in a sea of artificiality, it 
 sheds its benign influence over all who enter its gates. No one 
 of whatever creed or denomination can leave that spot unblessed; 
 no troubled spirit can fail to be soothed by its sweet serenity. 
 
 The fern-bordered brick-paved entrance leads into a green-walled 
 yard where all city noises are shut out by the bordering shrub- 
 beries, where the sunlightfil- 
 ters through the purple of 
 the Japanese plum and the 
 green of other trees, where 
 birds are singing and dipping 
 their wings in the cistern set 
 in the grass for their use, 
 where here and there a few 
 
 [ io 9 ] 
 
 Swedenborgian Church on Washington and Lyon Streets. 
 
SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 flowers or blossoming shrubs give just the right touch of color, 
 and the whole is blended with the church itself by the vines and 
 climbing roses which clothe it. One would fain linger in this quiet 
 spot where worldly cares slip away and peace steals into the soul; 
 but the yard is a fitting vestibule for the church within. Enter- 
 ing, one finds simplicity and sincerity the keynotes of both church 
 and service. The natural-wood finish, the roof supports of logs 
 still bark covered, the decorations of lichen-covered branches and 
 vases of pidturesque dried seed-vessels, all with their browns and 
 grays warmed by tempered sunlight, and firelight from the great 
 fireplace at the end of the room, form a fit setting for the four 
 beautiful paintings by Keith which cover the northern wall; paint- 
 ings whose mellow tones and wonderful depths emerge from the 
 dusky light, and are printed on the conciousness during the hour 
 of reverent service. 
 
 A very different place is Calvary Presbyterian church, on the 
 corner of Fillmore and Jackson streets, yet for several reasons it 
 is memorable. The church was organized in 1854, by the Rev- 
 erend William A. Scott, D. D., L. L. D., a native of Tennessee. 
 He came here from New Orleans at the age of forty-nine, full 
 of learning, with a fine voice and wonderfully gifted in prayer. 
 He preached with power and pathos and, according to a contem- 
 porary minister, never was congregation more in danger of being 
 guilty of idolatry in worshipping its pastor than was his, as the 
 years went by. The troublous days of the Civil War drew on. 
 A native southerner, his sympathies were with the South. Often 
 his expressions were exaggerated and misrepresented. It was 
 finally thought best for him to take a voyage to Europe. For 
 some time he supplied a church in London and then became pas- 
 tor of the Forty-second Street Presbyterian Church in New York. 
 
 In 1870, he returned to San 
 Francisco, to the great joy of 
 his friends. St. John’s Pres- 
 byterian Church was organ- 
 ized, and he installed as its 
 pastor. It was during this pas- 
 torate that he married Rob- 
 ert Louis Stevenson and Mrs. 
 
 [no] 
 
 Calvary Presbyterian Church. Fillmore and 
 Jackson Streets. 
 
Old St. Mary’s, 
 
 Restored After the Fire. Once 
 the Roman Catholic 
 Cathedral Church. Photo- 
 graph by Louis J. Stellmann. 
 
* * There it lay, a constellation of lights , a golden radiance , 
 dimmed by the distance. S an Francisco the hnpossible, the City 
 of Miracles l Of it and its people many stories have been told ', 
 and many shall be; but a thousand tales shall not exhaust its 
 treasury of Romance. Earthquake and fire shall not change it, 
 terror and suffering shall not break its glad, mad spirit . Time 
 alone can tame the town, * * rob it of its nameless charm , sub- 
 due it to the Commonplace. May Time be merciful— may it delay 
 its fatal duty till we have learned that to love, to forgive, to 
 enjoy, is but to understand / 
 
 — From “ The Heart Line by Gelett Burgess. 
 
 Copyright IQOy. Used by special permission of the 
 Publishers , The Bobbs-Merrill Company. 
 
CHURCHES 
 
 Osborne. He was largely instrumental in founding the Presby- 
 terian Theological Seminary, now established at San Anselmo. 
 
 The old Calvary Church which he organized was on Bush street. 
 
 After occupying several sites, its home for a number of years was 
 on Powell street, opposite Union Square. Gradually the congre- 
 gation moved westward, the plot of ground became very valuable, 
 and it was sold for enough to buy the present Fillmore street 
 lot, build a handsome new church, and still leave money in the 
 treasury-a unique experience for a church. But-this circumstance 
 is not the chief reason for interest in it. It is rather because of 
 the part it played in municipal life after the great fire in 1906. 
 
 It was one of the very few, and the largest, of the churches spared 
 by the fire and it was left comparatively uninjured by the earth- 
 quake. For months it was a seat of justice as well as a center of 
 religious life. Courts were held in its gymnasium, Masonic and 
 other societies met in its social rooms, while for religious ser- 
 vices, in true spirit of brotherly love, it opened its doors to all 
 denominations needing shelter, Jewish as well as Christian-truly 
 a gracious and a Christian hospitality. 
 
 The First Unitarian Church is noteworthy as the church of 
 Thomas Starr King, one of the greatest of the great men who 
 have made San Francisco the city of their adoption. He came 
 to San Francisco from Boston in i860, a young man of thirty- 
 .six, who was already winning fame. But it was in California that 
 he became one of the world’s great orators. To him, more than 
 to anyone else, it was due that California was saved for the Union 
 in the dark days of 1861; to him, more than to any one else, was 
 due the large sum raised by California for the Sanitary Commis- 
 sion. An eloquent preacher and speaker, a fervent patriot, his 
 body was too frail a tenement for his fiery soul. His priceless 
 life was cut short; he died in 
 1864, only forty years of age. 
 
 His body lies before the door 
 of the church, on the corner 
 of Gearyand Franklin streets. 
 
 The old Unitarian Church to 
 which he was called was on 
 Stockton street, near Sacra- 
 
 [1,,] 
 
 Geary-Street Unitarian Church. Starr King’ s First Tomb. 
 
SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 mento, but the growth of 
 the town being southward, a 
 church was built on Geary 
 street, near Stockton, soon 
 after Starr King’s arrival here, 
 and this was the church in 
 which he preached and where 
 he was buried. His body was 
 removed to the present site 
 when, with the growth of the 
 town, the church was again obliged to move on. A bronze statue 
 in Golden Gate Park expresses San Francisco’s appreciation of 
 his life and services. 
 
 The fire of 1906 destroyed a large proportion of the churches 
 of the city. Most of them have been replaced and, in many in- 
 stances, by finer and more nearly fireproof structures than before. 
 
 The First Methodist Episcopal Church has lately finished 
 and dedicated a handsome new building on Clay and Larkin 
 streets. The organization is the oldest in the city; indeed, the 
 oldest on this coast, south of the Willamette river. It had its 
 birth in 1847. After two years in temporary shelters, a lot was 
 bought on the corner of Powell and Jackson streets, in Novem- 
 ber, 1849, and soon after a church building was ereCted. Up to 
 the time of the fire the church remained in this location. 
 
 The Central Methodist Church has a new home on O’ Far- 
 rell street, west of Leavenworth, having in rebuilding made a long 
 leap from its former home in the Mission. In the Sixties, when 
 the home of this church was on Howard street, near Second, the 
 pulpit was filled by Doctor Guard, a man of great eloquence and 
 power, at whose every service the building was crowded. Those 
 were the days of San Francisco’s great pulpit orators in almost 
 every denomination. 
 
 In January, 1912, was dedicated the new home of the How- 
 ard Street Methodist Episcopal Church, located at Howard and 
 Harriet streets. From its downtown location it is called “The 
 Church of the Stranger.” The present structure cost $118,000 
 and is its seventh home since it was organized in 1851 by the 
 Reverend M. C. Briggs in the Happy Valley school house. 
 
 [112] 
 
CHURCHES 
 
 A yellow brick building replaces the former home of the 
 First Presbyterian Church on the old site, the corner of Van 
 Ness avenue and Sacramento streets. 
 
 A large and handsome Christian Science church of the same 
 material has been recently built on the corner of Franklin and 
 California streets. 
 
 On the summit of Nob Hill, Grace Pro-Cathedral (Epis- 
 copal) is in course of construction, on the former sites of two 
 Crocker homes, which, after fire had destroyed the houses, were 
 given by the Crocker family to the Church for this purpose. It 
 is a superb position, and the building, when completed, will be 
 worthy of the site. A fine white granite building for the Divinity 
 School is already finished. 
 
 Grace Church was founded by the Reverend DoCtorVerMehr 
 in 1850, at about the same time that Trinity Church was founded 
 by the Reverend Flavel S. Mines, the latter coming by way of 
 the Isthmus, the former around the Horn. Both were men of 
 energy and talent, and both were highly accomplished; but at 
 first there was not room for the two churches and Grace Church 
 led a struggling and troublous existence, until Bishop Kip arrived 
 in 1854. He was seleded by the General Convention at New York 
 in 18 53, and sent out as Missionary Bishop of California, leaving 
 the rectorship of St. Paul's Church, Albany, to come. DoCtor Ver 
 Mehr, having given up Grace Church and retired to Sonoma, 
 where he opened a seminary for young ladies, the rectorship was 
 offered to Bishop Kip, who accepted, though the warden told him 
 there were only twenty people inside, and the sheriff at the door. 
 In three years, the city having increased rapidly in population, 
 the congregation overflowed the church, which was on Powell 
 street, not then graded. In 1857, the Reverend Ferdinand C. 
 Ewer became reCtor, the bish- 
 op resigning as his other 
 duties pressed. The church 
 continued prosperous, and a 
 new building was ereCted on 
 Stockton street at California. 
 
 It was the Cathedral Church 
 of the Diocese. 
 
 [ 1 1 3 ] 
 
 Grace Pro-Cathedral. Courtesy of the Architect , 
 L. P. Hobart. 
 
SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 The Trinity Episcopal 
 church is a massive stone 
 building, clothed with ivy, on 
 the corner of Goughand Bush 
 streets. As stated before, it 
 was founded in 1850 by the 
 Reverend Flavel S. Mines, 
 who died of consumption af- 
 ter a few years of faithful 
 labor. When Bishop Kip ar- 
 rived in 1854, he said that all there was of the Episcopal church 
 on the Pacific coast was gathered into Trinity. He was struck 
 by the energy and efficiency of the men of the congregation. 
 Mr. Mines was followed as redlor by the Reverend Christopher 
 B. Wyatt. 
 
 St. Luke's Church (Episcopal) has recently completed a 
 beautiful white stone building, remarkable for its tasteful simplic- 
 ity. It is on the corner of Van Ness avenue and Clay street, the 
 site of the previous church building. 
 
 The population of San Francisco being of such a cosmopoli- 
 tan character, most of the different denominations have churches 
 to accommodate the different races, in which each may listen to 
 the service in his own language; for instance, the fourteen Bap- 
 tist churches include a Chinese, a Finnish, a German, a Swedish, 
 a Russian, and a Negro church; the sixteen Lutheran are divided 
 among the Norwegian, Swedish, Finnish, German, and English; 
 while the twenty-one Methodist churches include African, Chi- 
 nese, Japanese, Norwegian, Swedish, Danish, and German. 
 
 The Chinese Presbyterian and Chinese Methodist churches 
 are on Stockton street, between Clay and Jackson streets. 
 
 The Japanese Presbyterian church is at 121 Haight street. 
 On Clay street, between Powell and Stockton, is a Japanese mis- 
 sion, conducted by the Episcopalians. 
 
 When the first Protestant clergymen arrived from the East 
 in 1849, °ld Mission church, presided over by a Mexican 
 priest, Father Santillan, was the only place of worship for the 
 Catholics of SanFrancisco. The Reverend Albert Williams (Pres- 
 byterian), soon after his arrival, paid his respe&s to his brother 
 
CHURCHES 
 
 clergyman. He reports that the padre received him kindly. He 
 was lying ill, in a room plainly furnished, save for a bookcase 
 which stood in one corner. On the shelves were a few English 
 volumes, an English Bible and a Latin New Testament. Mr. 
 Williams says that Father Santillan impressed him as a simple 
 and sincere man. 
 
 In June, 1849, two Jesuit priests, Fathers Blanchet and 
 Langlois, arrived from Oregon. They laid the foundation of the 
 first St. Francis church, on Vallejo street. Father Blanchet soon 
 returned to Oregon, but Father Langlois remained. Though 
 understanding English but imperfectly, he was a useful member 
 of the community, “earnest, and at all times ready to co-operate 
 in efforts to promote good morals and the public welfare.” This 
 is the testimony of a Protestant clergyman who adds, “In honor 
 of his truly catholic spirit and pious zeal, I recall his successful 
 effort in causing the suppression of a Sabbath-profaning circus, 
 his countenance given to temperance meetings, and to the Bible 
 Society, and his permission accorded to the free circulation of 
 copies of the Holy Scriptures in the Spanish language, among 
 the Spanish Roman Catholic population.” 
 
 In 1850, Father J. S. Alemany was consecrated at Rome as 
 Catholic Bishop of California. Later he was raised to the Arch- 
 bishopric. For more than a quarter of a century he was a true 
 father of his people, and under his guiding hand churches of his 
 faith multiplied rapidly. 
 
 The present St. Francis church on Montgomery avenue is, 
 after the Mission Dolores, the oldest in the city. It was built in 
 1859. Its interior was destroyed by the great fire, but the walls 
 remained intad, and it is now fully restored. 
 
 “Old St. MaryY’is one of the landmarks of the city. Its 
 clock tower, with its solemn 
 warning, “Son, observe the 
 time and fly from evil,” has 
 long admonished the hurry- 
 ing throng from its corner on 
 Dupont street and Califor- 
 nia. It was in former years the 
 Cathedral church and, at that 
 
 t 1 * 5] 
 
 St. Francis Church. Oldest Church in City 
 After the Mission. 
 
 I UH; 
 
SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 time, the finest church building in the city. It is now the church 
 of the Paulist Fathers. 
 
 St. Mary’s church, on the corner of Van Ness avenue and 
 O’Farrell street, is the Cathedral church of the Roman Catholic 
 Diocese. It was built in 1 887. It had a very narrow escape from 
 destruction by the great fire. The flames swept the opposite side 
 of Van Ness avenue. The top of the belfry broke out in a small 
 flame, and it seemed as if the cathedral was doomed. The devoted 
 priests climbed to the top of the spire and, with the assistance of 
 the firemen, chopped away the burning wood, put out the flames, 
 and thus saved the building. 
 
 The Dominicans lost a fine church building at the time of 
 the earthquake. They have now a temporary church on Pierce 
 street, between Bush and Pine, with a school fronting on Pine 
 street, and the priests’ house on Bush. 
 
 St. Ignatius’ church and college (S. J.) occupied, at the time 
 of the fire, an entire block between Van Ness avenue, Hayes 
 and Grove streets; a handsome pile of buildings. The church 
 was very beautiful within, and was said to have the finest organ 
 west of Chicago. All was swept away. They have had tempor- 
 ary buildings for church and school on Hayes street, near the 
 park. Now they are building a fine brick and steel structure on 
 a noble site crowning a hill on Fulton street. 
 
 On the corner of Broadway and Van Ness avenue is a hand- 
 some church, St. Brigid’s, (R. C.). The stone used in its construc- 
 tion was the old crosswalks removed when the streets were paved 
 with asphalt. 
 
 The Roman Catholics have a number ot churches for those 
 of foreign birth. On the north side of Bush street, between 
 Stockton and Grant avenue, is the French church, Notre Dame 
 
 des ViCtoires, served by the 
 Marist Fathers. 
 
 On Grant Avenue, near 
 Filbert street, is the Italian 
 church of Pietro e Paolo, con- 
 ducted by Salesian Fathers. 
 
 On the north side of 
 Broadway, between Mason 
 
 St. Mary's Cathedral, Roman Catholic, on Van 
 Ness Avenue. 
 
rjwvys 
 
The Silhouette City. 
 
 Against a sky of rose and violet 
 
 The city' s outline clearly, sharply shows. 
 
 Against a sky of violet and rose 
 
 The shapes of turret, tower and minaret ; 
 
 Twin Peaks, high hills, in dream repose are set. 
 Around whose heads the poppy-zephyr blows. 
 
 Twin Peaks, high hills, are set in dream repose 
 Where Occident and Orient have met. 
 
 And now the skies have turned to gold and green. 
 Rare jewels blaze on steeple, spire and dome— 
 
 Far, far across the deck's low rail I lean 
 And throw a kiss to thee, my natal home! 
 
 Dream city ! Pilgrim hearts alone can prize 
 Such precious balm for weary, homesick eyes. 
 
 — Clarence Ur my. 
 
CHURCHES 
 
 ana Taylor streets, is the handsome new Spanish church, Yglesia 
 de Nuestra Senora de Guadalupe. This replaces one which stood 
 on the same site before the fire. 
 
 There is a Slavonian church, the Church of the Nativity, on 
 Fell street, between Franklin and Gough streets. 
 
 There are two German Roman Catholic churches— one, St. 
 Boniface, on Golden Gate avenue between Jones and Leaven- 
 worth streets, is served by the Franciscans; the other, St. An- 
 thony’s, is on Army street, between Shotwell and Folsom. 
 
 The old Mission church is of too great interest to be given 
 only a paragraph. It is so closely woven with the history of the 
 city that it is given a chapter by itself. 
 
 The oldest Jewish society of the city is that of the Congre- 
 gation Emanu-El, which was organized in 1851. In 1866, a hand- 
 some synagogue was built on Sutter street at the cost of nearly 
 $ 200,000 . The congregation was presided over for many years 
 by Dodtor Elkan Cohn, a highly intelligent man of liberal views. 
 A later incumbent was the distinguished Rabbi Voorsanger, a 
 learned man, a powerful preacher, and adtive in relief work in the 
 time of the city’s need. The great fire, which spared nothing in 
 its path, left only the walls of the handsome building, but it has 
 since been completely restored. 
 
 The liberal views of Rabbi Cohn and his endeavors to intro- 
 duce some modifications in minor rites and ceremonies led to 
 some dissatisfaction among the more orthodox of his congrega- 
 tion. The dissatisfied members withdrew and organized the 
 Congregation Ohabai Shalome. In 1865 they built a handsome 
 temple on Mason street. Their present house of worship is on 
 Bush street. 
 
 The synagogue on California and Webster streets, whose 
 dome is conspicuous from so 
 many parts of the city, is the 
 Temple Sherith Israel. It 
 was comparatively uninjured 
 by the earthquake, also be- 
 yond the reach of the flames, 
 and, like Calvary church, it 
 opened its doors to the needy; 
 
 [ IT 7] 
 
 Temple Sherith Israel, on California and 
 Webster Streets. 
 
 
tiSBl 
 
 SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 for secular as well as for religious purposes. For many months 
 United States courts were held here, and here took place the 
 famous trials of Mayor Schmitz and Abraham Ruef. 
 
 The temple of the Congregation Beth Israel, newly built, 
 is on Geary street, just west of Fillmore. 
 
 Trinity Cathedral of the Holy Orthodox Russian-Greek 
 Church is a small building on the corner of Van Ness avenue and 
 Green street. The services here are most interesting and impres- 
 sive. The wonderful bass voices of the men of the choir make 
 the singing especially beautiful. An archbishop and two priests 
 compose the consistory. 
 
 The Greek Catholic Church was established in California at 
 Fort Ross in 1811, and a part of the primitive building still 
 remains, though badly injured by the earthquake of 1906. It 
 is a valuable historical relic and is to be repaired and preserved. 
 
 At 2963 Webster street, on the corner of Filbert, stands a 
 curious building, trying, with its dome, arches and open roof, to 
 suggest Indian architecture, but succeeding only in effecting a 
 flimsy imitation. The tablet at the door reads: “This is the first 
 Vedanta or Hindu mission in the West, erected 21 August, 1905. 
 The Vedanta is the oldest literature existent, consisting of the 
 highest and sublimest thoughts in the world. Rama Krishna 
 Mission, Calcutta, India, founded by Swami Vivekanada.” On 
 another tablet is given the time of lectures and classes taught by 
 Swami Trigunatita. 
 
 With four of the dominant hills of the city holding aloft 
 the symbols of Christianity, San Francisco should be known as 
 the city which points the Way with peculiar distinctness. In the 
 western half of the city the most conspicuous objects are the 
 towering walls of St. Ignatius church and the crosses of Lone 
 
 Mountain and the Prayer 
 Book Memorial; while from 
 the bay and down-town dis- 
 trict the splendid pile of 
 Grace Cathedral will be seen 
 to overshadow even that sym- 
 bol of material prosperity, 
 the great Fairmont itself. 
 
 f"8] 
 
 Temple of the Hindu Propaganda. 
 
Chapter Ten • Cemeteries 
 
 A it to the ancient cemetery of the Mission Dolores, 
 adjacent to the church, places one at once in the atmos- 
 phere of the early days. A search among the ivy- 
 covered tombs and headstones reveals many an old 
 Spanish name connected with the early history of Cali- 
 fornia, along with the names of many who supplanted them. Death 
 is the great leveler; near the church stands the tall monument 
 of Don Luis Arguello, the first Governor of California under 
 Mexican rule, while not far away are the graves of the notorious 
 Cora and Casey, hung by the Vigilance Committee of 1856 for 
 the murders of William H. Richardson and James King of Wil- 
 liam. This is, of course, the oldest cemetery of the city. The 
 first interment was made in 1776. The tombs of some of the 
 oldest Spanish families are within the church. 
 
 As the little settlement of Yerba Buena expanded into the 
 city of San Francisco, the cities of the dead kept pace with the 
 growth of the town. One was at North Beach, on the line of 
 Powell street; another of the oldest was on the southeastern slope 
 of Telegraph Hill. Another on Russian Hill gave the name to 
 the hill, being used as a Russian burial-place in the time of the 
 Russian Fur Company’s establishment in San Francisco. All 
 these were in use in 1 849 and later. As the city grew, the author- 
 ities set apart a plot of ground, bounded by what are now Market, 
 McAllister and Larkin streets. This seemed well out of the way 
 of any possible expansion. It was difficult of access, as in any 
 direction it could only be reached over a succession of sand hills. 
 Yerba Buena cemetery was the name given to this plot. T he 
 bones of those buried at North Beach were removed to this 
 
 [ 1 1 9I 
 
 Cypress Lawn. The Beautiful Protestant Cemetery in San Mateo County. 
 
SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 cemetery, and North Beach 
 cemetery was closed in 1854. 
 Of Yerba Buena, Charles W. 
 Stoddard wrote: “The for- 
 lornest of spots— no fence en- 
 closed it, the sand sifted into 
 it and through it and out on 
 the other side. It made graves 
 and uncovered them. We 
 boys haunted it in ghoulish 
 pairs and whispered to each other as we found one more coffin 
 coming to the surface, or searched in vain for the one we had 
 seen the week before. There were rude boards, painted in fad- 
 ing colors, and beneath lay the dead of all nations, soon to be 
 nameless.” Soon after the opening of Laurel Hill cemetery, the 
 removal to it of bodies from Yerba Buena began, and in 1870 
 the clearing of the latter cemetery was made complete and the 
 ground was prepared for the new City Hall which later covered 
 a part of this site, as also does City Hall Park. This spot is also 
 the site of the sand-lot agitation of Dennis Kearney in the early 
 Seventies. 
 
 Before Yerba Buena cemetery fell into disuse, a plot of 
 ground at the base of Lone Mountain was bought, or taken under 
 squatter's rights by a private corporation, for a new burial place. 
 It was at first intended to include the hill itself, making about 
 320 acres in all, but this was cut down to 160 acres, and later 
 reduced still further, the hill being excluded. The hill and 
 several square miles around it, including the original 320 acres, 
 were covered at that time with a dense growth of scrub oak 
 which, Theodore Hittell says, presented a landscape of peculiar 
 beauty, especially in contrast to the miles of sand dunes stretch- 
 ing beyond to the ocean. The cross eredled on the hill marked 
 the vicinity as a sacred spot. The cemetery was at first called 
 Lone Mountain, but the name was afterwards changed to Laurel 
 Hill. It was opened with elaborate services and speeches by 
 prominent men, on May 30, 1854. At first it was reached by a 
 circuitous route, nearly four miles in length, by way of Pacific 
 street and the Presidio. Later, Bush street was graded, planked 
 
CEMETERIES 
 
 and the distance from the Plaza shortened to about two miles. 
 In this cemetery, a well-kept and beautiful spot, are buried 
 many men prominent in the history of San Francisco; James 
 King of William, Broderick (who fell in a duel by the hand of 
 Judge Terry), Senators Sargent, Gwin and others. Handsome 
 monuments and family vaults abound. After the earthquake and 
 fire, refugees camped in the cemeteries the first night or two and 
 many a vault sheltered the living as well as the dead. 
 
 Calvary cemetery (Roman Catholic) lies south of Laurel Hill 
 and east of Lone Mountain. It was opened in i860. Many 
 French and Italian names are found here. There are monuments 
 with quaint inscriptions, and many touching gravestones and 
 wooden markers, containing pi&ures of dead children, their favor- 
 ite toys or other pathetic relics. 
 
 Masonic and Odd Fellows cemeteries complete the circle 
 of the hill. 
 
 The recently acquired Lincoln Park territory embraced the 
 old City cemetery, between Thirty-third and Fortieth avenues, 
 just south of the Cliff line car track. 
 
 Over in the Mission was a large Jewish cemetery occupy- 
 ing, approximately, the ground now covered by Mission Park, 
 between Church and Dolores, Eighteenth and Twentieth streets. 
 About 1894 the bodies were removed to a Jewish cemetery in 
 San Mateo county. 
 
 Save in the cemeteries of the Presidio, it is no longer per- 
 mitted to bury within the city limits. The present cemeteries, a 
 long line of them, are down the peninsula, in San Mateo county: 
 Jewish, Roman Catholic and Protestant, Italian, Chinese and 
 Japanese, most of them beautiful for situation, and the most 
 important embellished by art and nature to a point of exquisite 
 loveliness. Some have pretty 
 stone chapels near their en- 
 trances. The cemeteries are 
 reached by Southern Pacific 
 trains from Third and Town- 
 send streets and by street 
 cars, marked “Cemeteries,” 
 from the Ferry Building. 
 
 [ I2I 1 
 
 Jewish Cemetery. Once Occupying the Ground 
 of Mission Park. 
 
The Ferries, Looking North. 
 
 Chapter Eleven • Public Buildings 
 
 O f the public buildings of San Francisco, Federal, State 
 \ and Municipal, some persist from the era before the 
 | fire, some have been recently built, while others are 
 not yet completed. All are a credit to the city. The 
 Ferry Building, which belongs to the State, has been 
 described on one of the preceding pages. 
 
 The United States Custom House.— This is a handsome 
 building just completed, on Battery street, between Jackson and 
 Washington. It is of white granite, appropriately carved, and 
 made beautiful within by the lavish use of marble in wainscot, 
 stairways, counters and columns. 
 
 The Appraiser’s Building.— O n Washington and Sansome 
 streets, just west of the Custom House, stands the fortress-like 
 Appraiser’s Building which withstood the fire. In it were stored 
 valuable documents, and by the most heroic efforts it was saved. 
 The Appraiser, General John T. Dare, gathered his few men 
 together as the fire approached, distributing among them any 
 vessels he could obtain which would hold water. A tank on the 
 top of the building supplied their needs and all day long they 
 worked, putting out falling embers and woodwork as it ignited. 
 
 The Sub-Treasury Building.— This is another building 
 which dates from before the fire. The second story being damaged 
 it was removed, leaving a low, square building. It is on Com- 
 mercial street, between Montgomery and Kearny streets. A new 
 Sub-Treasury Building is to be eredted on the southwest corner 
 of Pine and Sansome streets. It will be of white granite on a 
 darker base, the steel frame covered with concrete, and made 
 fireproof in every particular. The cost is estimated at $500,000. 
 
 [122] 
 

 v 
 
 The Ferry Tower, 
 Looking Down Commercial 
 Street. Photograph by 
 Louis J. Stellmann. 
 
Chant of the City Royal. 
 
 Hail , City! Mother City, hail! 
 
 I greet thee, climbing slow aloft 
 The twin and pointed peaks where oft 
 I scanned thee, height and vale, 
 
 O fair metropolis! O shining! 
 
 Whose limbs, whose face , in light or mist. 
 
 The sun, the seas, the winds have kissed! 
 
 Whence comes this vision, this divining 
 
 That marks the towering years dilate 
 
 Portentously august and charged with wondrous fate ? 
 
 Behold the town, behold her bay! 
 
 Green, slumbering isles behold, and o' er 
 Ton waves the fair and farther shore 
 And mountains' crowned array . 
 
 The white, still stately ferries gliding. 
 
 The ships of sail at anchor-rest. 
 
 The black-hulled ships of steam abreast 
 Their iron battle-brethren riding. 
 
 And swift the fishing-craft that leap 
 
 With dark, wine-colored sails to drag the swarming deep. 
 
 Roofs like the troubled seas ! O spires! 
 
 Domes, teeming things that upward lift 
 Where swamps the sun or purple drift 
 Of smoke proclaims your fires ; 
 
 Bright streets the serried hills ascending 
 
 Of marshalled mansions gay or dumb. 
 
 Traversed by engine -wains that corjie 
 And go, their gleaming pathway wending— 
 
 O peaks, O gardens, parks and squares. 
 
 Wind-wafted odors of the seas, and blithe Valkyrie airs! 
 
 * * * 
 
 — Herman Scheffauer. 
 
PUBLIC BUILDINGS 
 
 The Hall of Justice.— This building is on the east side of 
 Kearny street, opposite Portsmouth Square. It occupies the site 
 of the former Hall of Justice, destroyed April 18, 1906. It is a 
 substantial stru&ure of stone, of impressive design and hand- 
 somely carved. 
 
 Police headquarters, police courts, criminal departments of 
 the superior court, and the city prison are located here. 
 
 This is the site of El Dorado, the most famous gambling 
 house of early days, and of the J enny Lind theatres, two destroyed 
 by fire, the last becoming the City Hall, which in time gave place 
 to the previous Hall of Justice. 
 
 The United States MiNT.-On the corner of Mission and 
 Fifth streets stands the United States Mint, built in 1874, of 
 brown sandstone on a granite base. It is open to the public 
 between 9 and 11:30 a. m., and 1 and 2:30 p. m., except Sundays 
 and holidays. It is next to the largest of the United States mints, 
 being exceeded in size and capacity only by the one in Phila- 
 delphia. It has made the record coinage because its coinage has 
 been so largely in gold pieces. In fifty days’ time, fifty-two mil- 
 lion dollars was coined here, fifty millions in twenty-dollar gold 
 pieces and two millions in ten-dollar gold pieces. Cents began 
 to be coined here three years ago. Up to that time only gold 
 and silver money had been made. Cents were rarely given or 
 taken in change in San Francisco. Now they are more often 
 used, though by no means universally. Much money has been 
 coined here for the Philippines— pesos and centavos. At one time 
 between twenty-five and thirty million dollars’ worth of pesos 
 were bought up by Japanese and Chinese, because they contained 
 three and one-half per cent, more silver than our dollars. They 
 remelted them and cast them into ingots, retaining the three and 
 one-half per cent, for profit. 
 
 Money became so scarce in 
 the Philippines that there 
 was not enough for ordinary 
 business. In consequence, the 
 ingots were repurchased by 
 our Government, brought 
 back here and recoined, mak- 
 
 I2 3] 
 
 The New Hall of Justice, Opposite Portsmouth Square. 
 
SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 ing them a little smaller and 
 adding a little copper. The 
 work gave employment to 
 one hundred people for three 
 years. 
 
 The coin is counted by 
 weight. The last time the 
 coin in the vaults was counted 
 it took thirty days to handle 
 it. There was $420,000,000. 
 Of course, every precaution is taken to prevent the escape of any 
 of the precious metals. In the adjusting room the carpet used 
 to be burned every four or five years to recover the impalpable 
 gold dust sunk into its meshes. At the last burning, the actual 
 value of the gold recovered was $9,500. Now the work of adjust- 
 ing is done by machinery, and very little gold escapes. 
 
 A visit to the Mint is of great interest. Courteous attend- 
 dants escort the visitors through the departments and explain 
 the various processes. There is also on exhibition a large and 
 valuable collection of coins, many of them very ancient. 
 
 This building, of solid and faithful workmanship, suffered 
 no serious damage through the earthquake, and was saved from 
 fire by the heroic efforts of its employees and a small band of 
 Coast Artillery, intelligently directed by Lieutenant Armstrong 
 of the Sixth Infantry, and Mr. Frank A. Leach, superintendent 
 of the Mint. Mr. Charles A. Keeler says in San Francisco Through 
 Earthquake and Fire , cc Surrounded on all sides by the burning 
 city, hemmed in by a roaring sea of fire, for seven hours they 
 were besieged in that fearful oven, choked with smoke and faint 
 with heat. With a hand pump, forcing water from a basement 
 well, they wet down the roof and upper story, but despite their 
 heroic stand, the fire broke through the windows, and they were 
 forced to the lower floor, where iron shutters stayed the flames.” 
 Shattering glass, bursting blocks of granite, walls crashing around 
 them mingled with the roar of the flames in a deafening tumult. 
 But the whirlwind swept by, the burning woodwork of the top 
 story was extinguished and the Mint was saved. There was in 
 its vaults at the time over $200,000,000. 
 
 The United States Mint. 
 
 [ I2 4] 
 
PUBLIC BUILDINGS 
 
 Probably the most dramatic part played by the Mint in the 
 history of San Francisco was that just following the great fire. 
 At that time every bank building was in ruins, the steel vault 
 doors were swollen shut with the heat, and the concrete and steel 
 vaults were covered in many instances with white-hot debris. No 
 bank records were accessible and the officials did not know whether 
 their immense volume of money was destroyed by the heat, and 
 could gauge the standing of their numerous depositors only by 
 a guess from a badly shaken memory. It was necessary for busi- 
 ness men to have coin for daily necessities, and there was abso- 
 lutely no accessible money in San Francisco, except in the United 
 States Mint. By the assistance of Eastern correspondents and 
 arrangement with the United States Government at Washington, 
 the banks were able to have small drafts converted into cash at 
 the Mint. The unprecedented procedure was this: The depos- 
 itor called upon the officials of his bank at their headquarters, 
 which might be in the basement of a private residence, and asked 
 for the advance of a few hundred dollars. If the bank officials 
 recognized him as a regular depositor in good standing, they 
 would take his note, payable at sight, for the amount required, 
 the banker endorsing the note, and the depositor personally tak- 
 ing it to the Mint, receiving the coin over the counter. There were 
 few, if any, blank check books in existence in the city, but such 
 was the ingenuity of man that this device served for current pur- 
 poses until the time when the banks could get their vaults open. 
 
 The Postoffice.— On Seventh street, between Market and 
 Mission, is the Postoffice Building. It was several years in the 
 course of erection and opened with appropriate ceremonies in 
 1902. It is one of the handsomest Federal buildings in the 
 United States, costing, with the ground, $5, 000, 000. It is built 
 of white granite, decorated 
 lavishly with mosaics, choice 
 marbles in great variety, deli- 
 cate stucco and beautiful carv- 
 ing in wood, marble and stone. 
 
 Besides its main use as a post- 
 office, the upper floors are 
 occupied by the United States 
 
 [ 1 2 5] 
 
SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 courts. The court rooms and judges’ chambers attached are beau- 
 tifully finished in marble and wood brought from every quarter of 
 the globe. These rooms are not open for inspection, but a walk 
 through the upper corridors, as well as through the lower floor, will 
 repay the visitor. Elevators at each end of the building make this 
 easy. Standing on filled ground, over what was once a marsh, the 
 postoffice was severely shaken by the earthquake of 1906, but the 
 resulting damage to the building itself was very slight. The build- 
 ing was later attacked by fire, which the employees subdued. 
 There are sixty-two postoffice sub-stations in the city. 
 
 The City Hall.— It took less than a minute on the morn- 
 ing of April 18, 1906, to make ruin of the City Hall, which had 
 cost $6, 000,000 and taken twenty years to build. Not that 
 the earthquake was exceptionally strong at this point, but the 
 design and workmanship of the part that gave way were excep- 
 tionally weak. An imposing structure, covering four acres, sur- 
 mounted by a lofty dome, there was built into a part of its walls, 
 at least, faulty construction and dishonest workmanship. The 
 dome was not properly braced, the heavy columns and walls sup- 
 ported nothing, the mortar was poor, and it was small wonder 
 that they fell. Successive administrations had a hand in the build- 
 ing, the damaged and undamaged portions being the work of 
 different ones, and when the day of trial came the result lay open 
 for the world to read. The dome and Larkin Street wing were 
 a mass of ruins, one bit of which, two columns and the piece of 
 entablature above them, made a picture which might easily be 
 mistaken for a part of the Roman Forum. Fire, soon following, 
 completed the destruction. A new City Hall is to be ereCted 
 near the old site. 
 
 State Armory.-A State Armory to be ereCted at Mission 
 
 and Fourteenth streets is to 
 cost $500,000. The build- 
 ing, of impregnable bastion 
 type, will include everything 
 needful for the officers, com- 
 panies and hospital corps, 
 whether for work or social 
 enjoyment. 
 
 T 12 
 
Grant Avenue and Market Street. Savings Union and Union Trust Company Banks. 
 
 Chapter Twelve • Banks 
 
 I n It he City "That Is, the story of how San Francisco was 
 rebuilt in three years, Rufus Steele says,“It is difficult to 
 see how San Francisco can ever want for ready money, 
 when every prominent corner down town is occupied by a 
 bank housed in a palace.” If that were true two years ago, 
 and it was, it is true now with emphasis. Taking them all together, 
 it is doubtful if any city in the world can offer so many beautiful 
 banks, both in architecture and interior finish and furnishings. 
 Of course, it is seldom that a city has a chance to begin house- 
 keeping all over again, with new furnishings throughout, and 
 San Francisco has made the most of this opportunity. The exte- 
 riors of granite, marble and sandstone, with stately columns and 
 beautiful carving; the interiors of richly colored marbles, the 
 choicest wood and beautiful metal work, carving and mosaic can- 
 not fail to impress the beholder. Where all are “palaces,” it is 
 difficult to seleCt a few typical ones. Some occupy sky-scrapers, 
 as the Humboldt, the Metropolis and the Mutual Savings banks; 
 some are in massive buildings, not so high, but with fine archi- 
 tectural features, notably the First National Bank at the foot of 
 Post street, whose stately monolithic columns are most striking; 
 while those ot another class differ widely from the old-time 
 bank buildings, with the difference all in favor of the new. These 
 consist of a single lofty room, occupying the full height of the 
 building. The magnificent effeCt of space thus produced is very 
 impressive. Fine examples of this type are theUnionTrustCom- 
 pany, the Savings Union Bank of San Francisco, at Grant avenue 
 and Market street, and the Bank of California, on California and 
 Sansome streets. The soft shades of the marble interior of the 
 
 t 1 2 7 ] 
 
SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 Savings Union, the sparing use of color and gilding and the del- 
 icate carving produce a quiet and beautiful effed: very rare in 
 commercial buildings. 
 
 When the Bank of California building was completed, it was 
 said that it was equaled by but two bank buildings on the conti- 
 nent-one in Philadelphia and one in Canada. In 1870, the Bank 
 of California opened in a small room at the corner of Washington 
 and Battery streets. William C. Ralston was the commanding 
 genius of its rapid and great expansion. The tragic ending of his 
 life and the fate of the bank are a part of State history. The 
 bank survived to grow into the solid and potent institution which 
 it now is. Its present magnificent home is but worthy housing. 
 
 The Hibernia Savings Bank, on Market, Jones and McAl- 
 lister streets, is touched with the romance of former days. It was 
 built with the unclaimed deposits, so it is said, of San Francisco’s 
 Age of Gold. Many men lived then under assumed names, and, 
 dying or dropping out of sight, their heirs could not be found. 
 The aggregate of their deposits, in the course of years, reached 
 a large sum. A law passed since then makes it obligatory for 
 banks, at the expiration of a certain time, to publish the names of 
 unknown depositors, with the amount of the deposits to their 
 credit. The walls of this bank weathered the earthquake and 
 fire, but the interior was fuel for the flames, and it has been com- 
 pletely refitted. Illustrating the magnitude of the city’s banks, 
 the Savings Union and the Hibernia Savings each has deposits 
 of about sixty millions of dollars. 
 
 In San Francisco, there are ten National banks, eleven Sav- 
 ings banks, and twenty-two State and Trust banks. These are of 
 all nationalties— German, French, Italian, Portugese, English, 
 Canadian, Chinese and Japanese. 1 1 might strike the casual observer 
 
 that the amount of business 
 transacted could hardly jus- 
 tify so many and such costly 
 buildings, but a glance at the 
 bank clearings of San Fran- 
 cisco will dispel any such idea. 
 They are now approximately 
 $50,000,000 a week. 
 
 [128] 
 
 The Bank of California. 
 
Market and, Post 
 Streets. The Crocker, 
 First National, and 
 Wells-Fargo Nevada Na- 
 tional Banks. 
 Photograph by 
 R. J. Waters. 
 
Chant of the City Royal . 
 
 * * * 
 
 JJ?ito thy bosom's magnet vast , 
 
 Firm-centered in thy seven hills. 
 
 Earth' s ultimate, quick iron thrills 
 And seeks thee out at last ! 
 
 From world-ports all the bland Pacific 
 
 Is tracked by rushing prows with fioam ; 
 
 They seek thy harbor and their home ; 
 
 They seek thee, mother beatific ! 
 
 A thousand wind-worn masts point high 
 
 And silken from their polished spars the flaunting nations fly. 
 
 Our Hellas of the Western deep 
 
 Anoints thee queen, nor long shall wait 
 The huge gestation of the state 
 That lies in thee asleep. 
 
 Tet great in greater realms thy glory— 
 
 Here Art shall rear a nobler race 
 Than a?iy that hath built its place 
 In nation's stone or nation's story. 
 
 Spirits of native light shall draw 
 
 Compelling urgings from the breasts so holy-hedged with awe. 
 
 Soon may yon sundered oceans mix 
 
 Their isthmian waves, nor fend from thee 
 World-homage thine— o'er subject sea 
 And land—Imperatrix! 
 
 Tongues of thy truest bards shall praise thee. 
 
 Nurse valiant of the master arts. 
 
 For thou within their minds and hearts 
 Hast blown the fire whose light repays thee. 
 
 Bow to her, waves ! where midst your foam. 
 
 Seven-set on circling hills she shines, our new, our nobler Rome ! 
 
 — Herman Scheffauer. 
 
Part of San Francisco’ s Sky-line of Commercial Buildings. 
 
 Chapter Thirteen • Commercial Buildings 
 
 S an Francisco rebuilt, means a city with far more and far 
 finer commercial and office buildings than before the fire. 
 Having had the chance to replace many old buildings 
 with new, she has, as in the case of banks, lived up to her 
 opportunity. Some of the tall buildings are survivors of 
 the fire, with interiors refitted, among these the Spreckels Build- 
 ing, the Mutual Savings Bank Building, the Crocker Building, 
 the Monadnock, the Chronicle and the Flood buildings on Mar- 
 ket street, the Mills and Kohl buildings on Montgomery street, 
 and the Merchants’ Exchange on California street. Twenty-seven 
 Class A structures were restored, at a cost of over $5,500,000. 
 With the new ones, there are now many more than one hundred 
 of this class, as nearly fireproof as architects and engineers can 
 make them; still more of Class B; while Class C runs into the 
 thousands. 
 
 The Pacific Building, on the corner of Fourth and Market 
 streets, was said, when it was built, to be the largest reinforced 
 concrete structure in the world. 
 
 The Flood Building, at the junction of Powell and Market 
 streets, stands on the site of the old Baldwin Hotel. It was nearly 
 completed before the fire; in fact, the basement and lower floors 
 were occupied. The walls were comparatively uninjured, but it 
 was a task of many weeks to clear out the rubbish within, before 
 the building could be restored and completed. 
 
 In the Merchants’ Exchange are some striking marine paint- 
 ings by W. A. Coulter of the harbors of San Francisco and Hono- 
 lulu, with the famous old clipper ships which came around the 
 Horn in the olden days. 
 
 L i2 9] 
 
SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 On Stockton street, up on the hill between Pine and Cali- 
 fornia, is the Metropolitan Life Insurance Building, small, but 
 with its classic design adorning the site on which it stands. 
 
 There are many other handsome new business structures, 
 among which might be mentioned the Phelan, Commercial, 
 Emporium, Jewelers’, Hewes, W. and J. Sloane, Shreve, and 
 Sheldon buildings. 
 
 A building of interest which survived the fire is the old 
 Parrott Block, on the northwest corner of Montgomery and Cali- 
 fornia streets. This was built in 1852, of granite blocks dressed 
 in China, and was put up by Chinese workmen brought over for 
 the purpose. It was occupied by Wells, Fargo and Company for 
 a good many years. 
 
 Another old timer is the Montgomery Block, on Mont- 
 gomery street, between Washington and Merchant. This was 
 built by Henry W. Halleck, long before the Civil War made him 
 a general. It was called at that time “the largest, most elegant 
 and imposing edifice in California.” A row of carved portrait 
 heads between the first and second stories was the chief feature 
 of the decorations. Some of those facing Montgomery street 
 were injured by the fire; the remaining ones on that side have 
 been removed and are in the museum in Golden Gate Park. 
 Those on the northern side of the building are intaCl. 
 
 In the Montgomery Block was stored at the time of the 
 fire the greater portion of the Sutro library, 125,000 volumes. 
 Thanks to solid walls, little inflammable material outside, and 
 proximity to the Appraiser’s Building, which the mighty efforts 
 of Government officials and employees saved, the block and its 
 valuable contents were spared. In this building was also Coppa’s 
 Restaurant, frequented by artists and a literary coterie, beloved 
 
 for its excellent cuisine and 
 famed for the fantastic decor- 
 ations of its walls. Though 
 this was the only restaurant 
 ofimportance unburned, bus- 
 iness could not be continued 
 here surrounded as it was by 
 acres of desolation and ruins. 
 
 t 1 3°] 
 
 Phelan Building, O’Farrell and Market Streets. 
 
Point Bonita. One of the Wardens of the Golden Gate. 
 
 Chapter Fourteen • Unique Shops 
 
 W hen contemplating the many features of rehabilita- 
 tion which are subjects for congratulation, the greater 
 number of fine buildings, the taste and richness of 
 their decorations, the more spacious stores with 
 their rest and dressing rooms luxurious and hygenic 
 in every detail— with all these to make us glad, one regret arises. 
 We have lost Post street as it was before the fire. We have still 
 the same attractive shops, some more beautiful than before, but 
 they are scattered. We cannot now, with a spare half hour, take 
 them all in, through the windows, if we have not time to browse 
 leisurely among them. It was a joy after the prosaic shopping 
 for the household had been attended to, to begin at Vickery’s 
 window, sure to contain a picture that drew one, the window a 
 picture in itself, with a Venetian vase or ajar of oriental porcelain 
 against some exquisite piece of drapery; to follow on past Elder’s 
 and down the block, lingering at each window to enjoy the beauti- 
 ful objeCts they contained and their harmonious arrangement. In 
 Elder’s were rare books, open and shut, drapery or a mat of some 
 oriental stuff, whose colors harmonized with the bindings; near by, 
 ajar of the right flowers to complete the harmony. Sometimes 
 the flower, branch or picturesque bunch of seed-vessels was the 
 motif, sometimes the books, sometimes a picture; always the win- 
 dow was treated as a whole and the result was beautiful. Next 
 was a Japanese store of merit; then the sombre richness of ori- 
 ental rugs; and last in the block, Marsh’s. In one of his windows 
 was always a screen of matchless Japanese embroidery, birds, per- 
 haps, which seem clothed in feathers, so perfeCt were the needle- 
 strokes, cherry blossoms in silk, with a blooming branch in the 
 
 [ud 
 
SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 suna-bachi before them, or 
 iris growing on the screen, 
 with real ones in the fore- 
 ground; so like the adlual 
 were the embroidered flowers 
 that all seemed a part of the 
 same design. One exquisite 
 wistaria screen, displayed at 
 intervals, was recalled with 
 peculiar regret when the fire 
 had finished its work. That so much beauty should perish use- 
 lessly, seemed wrong. We have walked several squares many 
 times, hoping to find that screen in the window, sometimes to be 
 rewarded. The Chinese stores are full of wistaria screens, but 
 there was never another one quite like that. Across the way was 
 Claxton’s. Antiques were his specialty, carved and lacquered 
 chests, charming tables, artistic jewelry-all alluring. 
 
 That Post Street block has changed, but most of the shops 
 that made it fascinating are still to be found, exercising the same 
 charm whether there, in temporary quarters, or in their new 
 homes. In the place of two is the beautiful great store of S. and 
 G. Gump. Downstairs are exquisite China, Sevres and Dresden, 
 glass in all of its most beautiful forms, Chinese and Japanese 
 objects of art in rooms whose arrangement and decorations are 
 Japanese. Upstairs are exhibition galleries of paintings, a Pom- 
 peiian room of statuary, carved marble fountains, benches and 
 urns; a French room of French period furniture, rooms of lamps, 
 work tables, tea tables, tea wagons, to mention only a part of the 
 beautiful objects. And there are also three rooms, a Japanese, 
 a Korean and a Chinese, which offer no hint of things to sell. 
 The kimonos and mandarin coats, the embroidered and brocaded 
 draperies are behind the sliding panels; for that is the charming 
 way with some of these unique shops. Their commercial obje6t 
 is so kept in the background that the visitor almost feels that he 
 has the privilege of a museum of art. That this delightful method 
 of handling stock is growing in favor with the merchant year by 
 year is evidence that it must be as profitable to him as it is pleas- 
 ing to the customer. 
 
 A Room of S. & G. Gump’s Store. 
 
 [* 3 2 ] 
 
UNIQUE SHOPS 
 
 The new home of Vickery, Atkins and Torrey is on Sutter 
 street, between Powell and Mason in their own building, a charm- 
 ing place within and without, designed by Mr. Atkins of the firm. 
 A tiny Italian garden invites you— grass, a fountain, roses and a 
 marble bench. This, an entrance to a place where things are 
 sold ? Yes, and, though there are articles for the light purse as 
 well as for the heavy one, you will wish that Croesus’ wealth were 
 yours before you come out. Nevertheless, without it, if your 
 disposition is not too covetous, you may spend an hour within 
 very happily, rejoicing that the world contains so many beautiful 
 things, people with taste and skill to bring them together, and 
 that you meet with courtesy unfailing, whether you buy much, 
 little, or nothing at all. This is one of the few places in the coun- 
 try— the only one in the Far West— where the connoisseur of fine 
 prints can find the quality that he seeks; and where in the paint- 
 ing galleries the display of Mr. Torrey’s yearly gleanings indicates 
 that each item has been purchased wholly from the standpoint 
 of a personal interest. No doubt Mr. Vickery would rather sell 
 you a fine painting, a carved oak cabinet or a mahogany table 
 than explain to you the porcelains of the different Chinese dynas- 
 ties, but you would never guess it from his manner; in fad, 
 noticing the way his fingers caress lovingly the vase he handles, 
 or the rare jewel he shows to you, and his intimate acquaintance 
 with all these beautiful things, I think he, too, sometimes forgets 
 that they are here for the purpose of being sold. In fad, my 
 belief is that he parts from his treasures with regret! 
 
 The same atmosphere pervades Paul Elder’s beautiful shop, 
 on Grant avenue, between Post and Sutter streets. The artistic- 
 ally arranged window is sure to attrad you. From the size of 
 the front, you would never guess the number of beautiful things 
 within. With his publishing 
 rooms, the shop occupies four 
 floors. Books— standard, new 
 and old-are on the first floor. 
 
 His own unique publications, 
 rare editions, and latestthings 
 from the East and abroad 
 cover the tables and shelves. 
 
 [ 1 33] 
 
 A Corner in Vickery, Atkins & Torrey’s. 
 
SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 There are no counters. The soft gray of the gothic room is a 
 fitting background for the rich bindings, jars of flowers and pic- 
 tures. Children’s books are up a short flight of stairs in front. 
 On the upper floors are rooms of art treasures, metal work, pot- 
 teries, pictures and many other delightful things. When Lyman 
 Abbott was here seven or eight years ago, he said, in speaking of 
 the former store, that neither in Europe nor New York had he 
 seen a shop of like attractiveness. This may be said of the pres- 
 ent store, and in truth of several of our choicest places. 
 
 The main store of Mr. George T. Marsh, importer of Japa- 
 nese and Chinese art goods, is on the corner of Post street and 
 Powell. Here are the choicest productions of oriental art, in 
 ceramics, embroidery, brocades, metal work and ivory carvings— 
 each piece of artistic merit, not a miscellaneous collection of goods 
 manufactured for quick sale. The rooms are fittingly and beauti- 
 fully arranged. He has also a beautiful store in the Fairmont 
 Hotel. 
 
 The cc Meiji,”on Stockton street, between Sutter and Post, 
 is a charming Japanese store kept by Japanese. The fittings of 
 the place are all Japanese in character and are beautifully carried 
 out. The stock is choice, much of it consisting of articles not 
 found elsewhere. Old Japanese potteries are a specialty here. 
 
 On the eastern side of Kearny street, a little beyond the 
 Chronicle building, is Andrews’ Diamond Palace, a glittering 
 marvel of brillancy. It is the pet and pride of Colonel Andrews, 
 a veteran of the Civil War. Mirrors in walls and ceilings refleCt 
 and re-refleCt the cut glass chandeliers, the panels of paintings 
 and cases of brilliant jewels, until there seems to be an endless 
 vista of sparkling and palatial rooms. It adds to the wonder to 
 know that this is the third cc Palace” created by Colonel Andrews, 
 
 so much alike in every detail 
 that one could be scarcely 
 distinguished from the others, 
 some difference in the paint- 
 ings being the only variation. 
 The first was of the era before 
 the fire, totally destroyed, of 
 course, though the stock was 
 
 [ 1 34] 
 
 One of Mr. George T. Marsh’s Japanese Rooms. 
 
Point Bonita . 
 
 The foam-lines flash , the wind pipes free , 
 The city looms in sight; 
 
 The clouds drift in across the lea , 
 
 And on the gray strand beats the sea , 
 Intoning day and night . 
 
 * * * 
 
 Out on the links I stroll at ease , 
 
 And there I watch and wait. 
 
 As on and off before the breeze 
 The ships beat inward from the seas 
 And pass the Golden Gate. 
 
 Around Tzcin Peaks, above the town. 
 
 The misty vapors creep; 
 
 And Russian Hill looks dimly down 
 Where Alcatraz and Fort Point frown. 
 Grim warders of the deep. 
 
 And, looming up, Lone Mountain lifts 
 Its cone against the sky. 
 
 And softly through the broken rifts 
 The sunlight for a moment sifts 
 And gilds the cross on high. 
 
 * * * 
 
 — Lucius Harwood Foote • 
 
UNIQUE SHOPS 
 
 saved. The second occupied a temporary place on Van Ness 
 avenue soon after the fire. 
 
 Besides the various shops peculiar to San Francisco, all the 
 large stores are distinguished for beauty and convenience of equip- 
 ment. All being new since the fire, they embody the latest ideas. 
 The Emporium, on Market street, is the largest of the depart- 
 ment stores. Almost every need can be satisfied under its roof. 
 On the second floor is the children's playroom with every device 
 for amusing children— toboggan slides, teeters, rocking boats, 
 swings, merry-go-rounds and tents. Here mothers when they 
 are tired of shopping bring their children for a half-hour's play. 
 There is an excellent restaurant on the mezzanine floor. The 
 arcaded front of the store lends itself beautifully to window deco- 
 rations. 
 
 The White House, on Sutter street and Grant avenue, is 
 one of the choice dry goods and department stores, and includes 
 a fine book department and seled; furniture. Its toy department 
 is a fairyland for children, and on the same floor there is also a 
 playroom for children. 
 
 The City of Paris is a very beautiful store, on the corner of 
 Geary and Stockton streets. Along with dry goods in every line, 
 gowns and millinery, all carefully chosen, is a sele&ion of hand- 
 some furniture. At Christmas time, when the central dome is 
 filled with a great Christmas tree, decorated and glittering with 
 a thousand lights, the effe6t is dazzling. 
 
 Where so many dry goods shops are choice, and filled with 
 entirely new and beautiful stocks, it seems invidious to name 
 only two or three. The Lace House of D. Samuels and Sons, 
 O’Connor, Moffatt and Company, Newman and Levinson's, 
 Magnin's, are all fine stores with stocks second to none. 
 
 Shreve's beautiful store 
 occupies the lower floors of 
 the Shreve Building, on the 
 corner of Grant avenue and 
 Post street. Shreve is the 
 Tiffany of San Francisco, 
 with every thingthat the name 
 Tiffany implies. Jewels, gold 
 
 [ 1 35] 
 
 A Room of the Meiji. 
 
SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 and silver are on the first floor; china, glass, bronzes, statuary, 
 lamps, et cetera, above. Already the business has outgrown the 
 downstairs floor space and expanded into the next building. 
 
 The Opal Store, on Grant avenue, between Post and Geary 
 streets, is a charming place. Opals are a specialty here, as the 
 name implies, also all sorts of jewelry manufactured from abalone 
 blisters. Jewelry is made to order from stones or blisters person- 
 ally selected. 
 
 The bookstore of A. M. Robertson, on Stockton street fac- 
 ing Union Square, almost deserves mention among the unique 
 shops for its clever advertisement of years' standing,' “Just a book- 
 store." The owner is not to be drawn away by any form of art, how- 
 ever attractive, from the serious business of making and selling 
 books; for Mr. Robertson is also a publisher whose specialty 
 has been books by California authors. 
 
 There are two other excellent bookstores, one on Sutter 
 street and Stockton, the other on Sutter street, between Stockton 
 and Grant avenue. These, with Robertson's, Paul Elder's and 
 the two large book departments of the White House and the 
 Emporium, speak well for the serious side of San Francisco and 
 for its love of good reading. The latest novel may be had from the 
 libraries. Bookstores are supported by the sale of something bet- 
 ter, and nowhere are there better book buyers than in San Fran- 
 cisco. To mention two instances, it is said that of Do6torKuyper's 
 book on The Holy Spirit , a heavy treatise, one-third of all the 
 sales in America were in San Francisco; and that, of the books 
 of a well-known writer on Old Testament criticism, more were 
 sold in San Francisco than in either New York or Philadelphia. 
 
 The list might be multiplied indefinitely to include the cap- 
 tivating furniture Stores, a fascinating China and house furnishing 
 
 store, and many others, but 
 they cannot all be named. Of 
 thosementioned,othersin the 
 same lines may be as favor- 
 able places for shopping. The 
 aim has been to seled: a few 
 typical ones, and not to make 
 comparisons. 
 
 [ T 3 6 ] 
 
 The Book Room of Paul Elder & Company. 
 
Night in Chinatown. 
 
 Chapter Fifteen • Chinatown 
 
 N ot long after the disaster of 1906 there appeared at 
 about the same time in two different newspapers 
 two short articles on the Chinatown ruins, amusingly 
 at variance with each other. The first in startling 
 headlines announced: “ Fire Lays Bare Chinese Se- 
 crets-Burrows Uncovered One Hundred Feet Underground,” 
 and in more modest type below, there followed “ Men- white 
 men— never knew the depths of Chinatown’s underground city. 
 They often talked of these subterranean runways and many of 
 them had gone beneath the street levels two or three stories, but 
 now that Chinatown has been uncovered, men from the hillside 
 have looked on where its inner secrets lay. In places they can 
 see passages one hundred feet deep. They show depths which 
 the policeman never knew.” 
 
 The caption of the second article was “Fire Reveals China- 
 town Fake,”and ran as follows: “Among the many disclosures 
 resulting from the great fire, that which exposed the ‘under- 
 ground city’ fake in Chinatown will doubtless prove of interest to 
 more outsiders than any other. A feature of every tourist expedi- 
 tion was a trip through the wonderful underground passages and 
 retreats of the Chinese. The guides aroused the curiosity of the 
 Easterners with weird tales of the life in the underground quar- 
 ters and of the great dangers incurred in visiting them. The 
 party would be led through a series of narrow, winding hallways, 
 through doors that were unbolted after strange signals, and finally, 
 down a flight of rickety stairs, into an ill-smelling room, where 
 a Chinaman smoked opium for the benefit of the visitors. Now 
 the fire has made of Chinatown a waste and bared its ruins to 
 
 [ 1 37] 
 
SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 the public gaze, the fad is 
 disclosed that the world-re- 
 nowned c ten stories under- 
 ground' was only a myth. The 
 ruins show that the Chinese 
 quarters only had the usual 
 cellars; and none of them 
 seems to be of much greater 
 depth than the ordinary base- 
 771 ^ Bazaars of Dupont street. ment. T1 he reader may take 
 
 his choice of the tales. If he eleds the former, he will wish a 
 guide, for Chinatown is restored very much as it was before, save 
 that it is cleaner, the stores are larger, their stocks are finer and 
 more brilliant. In any case, for an evening visit, a licensed guide 
 should be obtained, and a good one will call the visitor’s atten- 
 tion to many things of interest which he would probably fail to 
 see of himself. 
 
 The joss house of the Chee Kung tong, or Chinese Free 
 Masons, on Spofford alley, may be visited, except when religious 
 or initiatory services are going on. Spofford alley is between Clay 
 and Washington streets, west of Dupont. 
 
 The Chong family joss house on Pine street is also open to 
 visitors. Other special attradions, besides the bazaars, are the 
 singing children, Chinese musicians and a few opium dens. 
 
 At Hang Far Low’s restaurant, between Sacramento and 
 Clay streets, visitors may obtain chop suey, noodles, Chinese 
 sweetmeats and delicious tea, after four in the afternoon. The 
 room for visitors, handsome with oriental carving and teakwood 
 furniture, is up two flights of stairs. Tea, with sweetmeats, is also 
 served by the Fook Woh Company on the second floor of their 
 store, which is on the corner of Dupont street and Sacramento. 
 
 If the second article quoted appeals more to the reader’s 
 cast of mind, he may assure himself that Chinatown is as safe as 
 any other part of the city. Visitors are considered as guests and 
 treated with resped. On the other hand, the Chinese exped con- 
 sideration and respedful treatment from tourists. 
 
 In some respeds, night is the best time for seeing China- 
 town. Artificial light lends a glamor to the oriental city within 
 
 t^ 8 ! 
 
CHINATOWN 
 
 a city. It is a busy place, with many characteristic occupations of 
 the Chinese still being carried on in the evening. 
 
 For leisurely shopping, the day is best, and then one sees 
 more of the women and children, the latter usually attractive, 
 especially if one should chance upon a holiday, and they are 
 dressed in gay holiday array. During the day women may visit 
 the streets and stores of Chinatown alone with perfect propriety, 
 and pass interesting hours in the bazaars, which extend for two 
 blocks, from California to Clay street, most of them on the west 
 side of Dupont street, but one or two fine ones on the eastern 
 side. Here, in gorgeous and bewildering array, are silks and 
 embroideries to delight the eye and deplete the purse, ivory carv- 
 ings worthy the cabinet of an emperor; cloisonne, Satsuma and 
 Canton wares, exquisite lacquer, brass and bronze. A few cents 
 will buy some pretty and artistic trifle, or hundreds of dollars 
 may be spent in wondrous Mandarin coats, or in screens wrought 
 in landscape, flowers, or birds, by artists whose medium is needle 
 and thread instead of brush and paint. Alas! mingled with this 
 wealth of beauty, one finds each year more and more of the gaudy 
 trash “made for the American trade.” 
 
 People usually imagine that the names of these bazaars are 
 simply those of the proprietors, but each one has a significance. 
 Sing Fat means “living riches;” Sing Chong, cc living prosperity;” 
 Fook Woh, “happy harmony;” Wing Sing Loong, “everlasting 
 living prosperity” and Wa Sang Lung, <c nice living prosperity.” 
 
 In the two blocks south of the bazaars are several interest- 
 ing Japanese shops. The better ones of these are arranged with 
 artistic skill. 
 
 Continuing north on Dupont street, after passing the bazaars, 
 a walk by the Chinese shops which supply their own people is 
 worthwhile. Thefoodshops, 
 with their strings of tiny sau- 
 sages, glazed roastduck, dried 
 shrimps, strange vegetables, 
 square cakes of bean cheese, 
 and fruits unknown to us are 
 very interesting. Near by are 
 confe&ioner’s stalls with can- 
 
 [ 1 39] 
 
SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 died cocoanut, lichi nuts, and bunches of sugar-cane. The latter, 
 cut in short lengths, seems to be a favorite sweetmeat for small 
 Chinese boys. Drug stores dispense articles most curious to our 
 eyes, dried lizards and toads, shark’s eggs pulverized, to mention 
 a few, besides many kinds of herbs and roots. Perhaps through 
 a basement door or window one may see a goldsmith at his work, 
 carving the beautiful Chinese gold and setting it with jade, or a 
 barber plying his trade on the head or ears of his vidim. 
 
 With the new republic the Chinese have abolished their 
 ancient calendar, and henceforth their New Year will coincide 
 with our own. Hitherto the Chinese New Year has been a great 
 holiday season in Chinatown. It began early in February and a 
 week of hospitality and merry-making followed. Before this holi- 
 day week all accounts had to be squared. A Chinaman whose 
 debts were not settled before his New Year began counted him- 
 self disgraced. At street stalls and in all the stores and houses 
 the sacred lily was in bloom, it being considered the harbinger of a 
 prosperous year. Except in the big bazaars, little regular business 
 was transacted. Merchants, their wives and children, were on 
 the streets, in rich and beautiful costumes, particularly the chil- 
 dren. A proud father might have been seen walking between 
 two little boys, one in green silk coat and lilac silk trousers, the 
 other in yellow coat and blue trousers, the father himself in hand- 
 some plum color brocade, and carrying in his arms a baby girl, a 
 gay combination of all the colors, a fringe of pearl beads depend- 
 ing from her cap, and framing her pretty cheeks, on each of which 
 glowed a round carmine spot, applied not to enhance the smooth 
 baby complexion but merely for decorative effed. 
 
 To one who has been fortunate enough to see an important 
 oriental procession, the sight is unforgetable. A few years ago 
 
 Chinese and Japanese were 
 features of a great civic pa- 
 rade held in San Francisco. 
 “Parlors” and “eyries” and 
 lodges of all sorts vied with 
 each other in pretty and fan- 
 tastic array; cheese-cloth and 
 cambric and tissue paper were 
 
 Father and the Baby Girl. 
 
Chinatown and the 
 Flags of the New Republic 
 Which Replace the 
 Old Dragon Flags of the Em- 
 pire. Photograph 
 by Louis J. Stellman. 
 
Chinatown . 
 
 * * Color was everywhere . A thousand little notes of green 
 and yellow , of vermilion and sky blue, assaulted the eye. Here 
 it was a doorway, here a vivid glint of cloth or hanging, here a 
 huge scarlet sign lettered with gold, and here a kaleidoscopic ef- 
 fect in the garments of the passers-by . * * Gigantic, pot-bellied 
 lanterns of red and gold swung from the ceiling . * * The air 
 was vibrant with unfamiliar noises. From one of the balconies 
 near at hand a gong, a pipe and some kind of a stringed instru- 
 ment wailed and thundered in unison. There was a vast shuf- 
 fling of padded soles and a continuous interchange of singsong 
 monosyllables, high-pitched and staccato, while from every hand 
 rose the strange aroma of the East— sandalwood, incense, oil, the 
 smell of mysterious cookery. — From “Blix,” by Frank Norris. 
 
CHINATOWN 
 
 called upon to do their best; but how cheap and tawdry they 
 were compared to the wondrous beauty of texture and color of the 
 Chinese robes and the gorgeous embroidery of their banners, or 
 the dainty, cherry-blossom floats of the Japanese, preceded by 
 horsemen in Samurai costumes four hundred years old! Disdain- 
 ing merely to produce with cheap materials an effed: for the time 
 being, the Chinese went to the bottom of their treasure chests 
 and brought out their priceless embroideries and beautiful silk 
 and crepe robes of every exquisite shade imaginable; while a Jap- 
 anese warship was none too dignified an escort for the invaluable 
 Samurai costumes loaned for the occasion by theTokio Museum. 
 
 The population of Chinatown is about 15,000. It may be 
 reached by walking north on Grant avenue. California and Sacra- 
 mento Street car lines cross Chinatown, and cars on Kearny or 
 on Powell street pass within a block or two. The clinker-brick 
 building at 920 Sacramento street is the Home of the Woman’s 
 Occidental Board of Missions, for Japanese and Chinese girls. 
 Here are from forty to fifty children or young girls, many rescued 
 from slavery, dreadful abuse, and dens of vice, by the devoted and 
 dauntless superintendent, Miss Donaldina Cameron, who counts 
 no danger too great if thereby she may hope to save one of 
 these girls. Pages might be filled with thrilling stories of these 
 rescues. Will Irwin has vividly related some of them in appre- 
 ciative tributes to Miss Cameron. The results of the training 
 given to the girls in the Home are such that she feels herself 
 richly rewarded for the risks she encounters. The children are 
 docile, bright and attractive and respond quickly to instruction. 
 It should be said that many Chinese are in sympathy with 
 this work and contribute to it. It is not unusual for information 
 about girls in slavery to be brought to the Home by a China- 
 man of Chinatown. Visitors 
 are welcome at theHome. On 
 the first Monday of every 
 month is the regular meeting 
 of the Board and in the after- 
 noon are special exercises by 
 the children, which always 
 interest the stranger. 
 
 [Hi] 
 
 Selling Almond Blossoms for New Year. 
 
California Street — Nob Hill Crowned With the Fairmont Hotel. 
 
 Chapter Sixteen • Hotels 
 
 I t is a far cry from the old adobe City Hotel of 1849, where 
 Stephen J. Field paid thirty-five dollars a week for his 
 eight by ten room, to the Fairmont, the St. Francis and 
 the Palace hotels of to-day. When the discovery of gold 
 increased the population from five hundred in 1848 to fif- 
 teen thousand in 1849, hotels s p ran g up like mushrooms in a 
 single night, at first flimsy strudures of canvas and boards, then 
 abandoned ships, roofed over and made habitable. The Parker 
 House rose on Kearny street, opposite Portsmouth Square, then 
 the Ward House near, and the Graham House, both brought 
 bodily around the Horn, each an improvement upon its prede- 
 cessors. The last two with the St. Francis were far ahead of any- 
 thing previously provided. Sleeping apartments of the St. Francis 
 were the best in California, making it a worthy forerunner of 
 its later namesake. A few years later the Oriental stood at the 
 jun&ion of Battery and Bush streets. Pioneers will remember 
 this and its contemporary, the Tehama House, on the present 
 site of the Bank of California. John Phoenix, an early Western 
 humorist, known in real life as Lieutenant Derby, perpetuated 
 the latter in A Legend of the Tehama House . The International 
 was for many years a first-class hotel on the corner of Kearny 
 and Jackson streets. Then came Woodward’s famed What Cheer 
 House, which lasted, far-fallen from its best estate, until the fire. 
 It stood on the corner of Sacramento and LeidesdorfF streets. It 
 was conduced upon curious lines, but was very popular, especi- 
 ally among miners and farmers, and Woodward made a great 
 fortune there. Only men were entertained; no woman was ever 
 seen on the premises; but no man, whether he could pay or not, 
 
 P42] 
 
HOTELS 
 
 was ever turned away. The rooms were plainly furnished, but 
 were kept scrupulously clean. It was the first house in San 
 Francisco to be run on the European plan. There was a good 
 museum conne&ed with it, and a fine library free to the whole 
 town. “ Here,” said S. D. Woods, “have I seen, bending over their 
 books, Mark Twain and Bret Harte and others of lesser fame, 
 together with judges, doctors and lawyers. This was the only 
 free library in San Francisco at that time.” 
 
 In 1862 the Lick house was built on Montgomery street 
 by James Lick, upon lots he had acquired soon after his arrival 
 here in 1847. The owner, a cabinet-maker by trade, personally 
 did much of the work on the interior finish of the dining room, 
 and it was said at the time of its completion to be one of the 
 most beautiful banquet halls in the United States. 
 
 About this time the Russ House and the Occidental Hotel 
 were built, also on Montgomery street. The latter was a favorite 
 with the army and navy people, and here in 1888 Robert Louis 
 Stevenson and his family spent a short time before embarking on 
 the Casco for the South Seas. A pretty feature of this hotel was 
 the bunch of fresh flowers in the room to welcome each incoming 
 guest, and the basket which always accompanied the outgoing 
 traveler-of fruit, if the journey was to be by sea; a dainty lunch- 
 eon, if by rail. 
 
 The California Hotel, on Bush street, was an attractive and 
 well-kept place. 
 
 But the Palace was the hotel by which San Francisco was 
 known the globe around. It used to be said that you could sit 
 in the old lobby a year and a day and see the whole world pass 
 in procession before you. Certainly you could in that time see 
 representatives of every civilized nation under the sun. The 
 hotel was begun in 1874 by 
 William C. Ralston. An un- 
 pretentious Catholic church, 
 
 St. Patrick’s, was moved, to 
 provide the site; before the 
 church was built in 1851, a 
 huge sand-hill occupied the 
 place. In 1875 Palace 
 
 143] 
 
 The New Palace Hotel, the Monadnock and 
 Spreckels Buildings. 
 
SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 was finished and was run for 
 several years at a loss, the 
 need for such a hotel not 
 having then arrived. So well 
 was it built that $90,000 was 
 paid to raze the walls in prep- 
 aration for the present build- 
 ing. The central court opened 
 to the skylight, with balco- 
 
 The St. Francis Hotel, Facing Union Square. nieS SUtrOUnding it On every 
 
 floor. Originally the court was used as a driveway for carriages. 
 Later it was made a luxurious lounging place with rugs, softly 
 cushioned sofas and chairs, and great palms in tubs here and there. 
 
 The hotel had its own system of fire protection, its own fire 
 engines and its own water from artesian wells. On that dreadful 
 morning in April, 1906, its employees fought bravely, intelli- 
 gently and successfully until, after the city water was exhausted, 
 their water supply was taken by the city firemen in the vain 
 endeavor to save surrounding buildings. 
 
 The new hotel preserves the great palm court which was 
 the marked feature of the old building. Its public rooms are 
 magnificent and its private rooms luxurious in every appoint- 
 ment. A beautiful pi&ure of the “Pied Piper of Hamlin,” by 
 Maxfield Parrish, adorns the bar. It is not unusual for ladies, 
 accompanied by gentlemen, to visit the room for the purpose of 
 seeing this picture. The Palace has 688 rooms and suites. 
 
 The St. Francis, a no less popular and luxurious hotel, is 
 fortunate in its situation, fronting as it does on Union Square. 
 All that could burn went up in flames in 1906, but the walls 
 were uninjured and refitting was begun almost as soon as the 
 stones were cool. Work had previously begun on the third wing 
 and this, too, was pressed forward. The St. Francis has now 700 
 rooms and suites, and the number will reach 1,000 when the 
 fourth wing which is now planned is added. It will then be one 
 of the largest hotels in the world, as it is now one of the most 
 delightful. The Tapestry room, with its soft blue walls and carved 
 gray stone pillars, is the most beautiful hotel room in the city; 
 and the lobby and the Colonial ballroom are very handsome. 
 
HOTELS 
 
 The Fairmont crowns an incomparable site on Nob Hill, a 
 beautiful building, noticeable from the bay, and from many parts 
 of the city, while the view from the hotel embraces a wonderful 
 vista of city, bay, the Golden Gate and the distant hills. It was 
 built by the two daughters of the late James G. Fair, and nearly 
 completed at the time of the fire. There was nothing to ignite 
 outside, but the devouring flames rushed through it, as through 
 a chimney, eating up what little inflammable material was within. 
 When the work of restoration and completion was over we had 
 the third of our great hotels; one without a rival in architecture 
 and situation, in this country, at least. It has between five and 
 six hundred rooms and suites, each with a bath. The beautiful 
 ballroom, the Norman banquet room opening on the terrace, the 
 dining room with every window framing a picture of the bay and 
 the pretty laurel tea room are some of its attractive features. ( 
 
 On one of the basement floors, reached by an elevator from 
 the Powell Street entrance, is a series of Japanese rooms contain- 
 ing an exhibit of beautiful Japanese embroideries, silverware, lac- 
 quers, bronzes, jewelry, porcelains— the choicest of the artistic 
 products of Japan. Exhibit? No, it is really a shop— though, 
 looking through its carved entrance into the vista of rooms be- 
 yond, you would not dream it. You are invited to examine at 
 your leisure the rooms themselves and the beautiful things which 
 adorn them and you are never made to feel uncomfortable if the 
 things you covet do not fit your purse. Besides the exquisite 
 articles, there are many pretty things of moderate price and not 
 one of them is commonplace. The shop is that of George T. 
 Marsh, whose main store is at Powell and Post streets. 
 
 Other hotels might be mentioned: The Stewart (favored by 
 army and navy), the Argonaut (owned by the Society of Pio- 
 neers), the Manx and many 
 others-1,237 in all, contain- 
 ing 60,000 rooms, ninety per 
 cent, new and up-to-date in 
 every detail. And the build- 
 ing still goes on. Our Expo- 
 sition guests will all be safely 
 and comfortably housed. 
 
 r 1 45 1 
 
 The Fairmont, on the Summit of Nob Hill. 
 
From the Walls of the Old Coppa’s Restaurant, in the Montgomery Block. 
 
 Chapter Seventeen • Restaurants 
 
 W hen San Francisco restaurants are mentioned in the 
 hearing of a San Franciscan, or of one who has 
 once tasted of their fascination, the words conjure 
 up pi&ures of inimitable institutions, not to be con- 
 fused with eating places elsewhere. For many of 
 the San Francisco eating places have a story and a charm which 
 make them a distindt feature of an unusual city; and from the 
 days of Winn’s Fountain Head, the original Poodle Dog, Peter 
 Jobs, and the Jury Brothers’ down to these days, they have borne 
 an unusual part in the city’s life. 
 
 The first Poodle Dog was the Rotisserie kept by an old 
 Frenchwoman in a board shanty on Dupont street, near Clay. 
 She had a long-haired poodle dog which was her constant com- 
 panion. Her well-cooked viands were popular with the miners 
 when they came to San Francisco with their bags of gold dust to 
 exchange for some of the comforts of civilization. Her foreign 
 name, unpronounceable by their unaccustomed tongues, was soon 
 discarded. They said to each other, “Let’s go to the Poodle 
 Dog,” and the name caught the popular fancy. Like all good 
 things, it had imitators, and there have been no less than four 
 Poodle Dogs and two Pups, each claiming to be a diredt descend- 
 ant of the original. Like “stridlly fresh eggs,” “fresh eggs”and 
 plain “eggs,” we have now the Old Poodle Dog, the New Poodle 
 Dog and plain Poodle Dog. 
 
 Winn’s Fountain Head and branch, on the corner of Wash- 
 ington and Montgomery streets, were very popular in the early 
 Fifties. No intoxicating drinks were sold in either place. The 
 branch catered mainly to ladies, with ice cream, cake and other 
 
 [i 4 6] 
 
Palm Court of 
 the Present Palace Hotel. 
 
The San Francisco Fog 
 
 Morning, fellow San Franciscan l Here’s my greeting to you! Shake! 
 F m an exiled sort of relic from the Days Before the Quake, 
 
 When old Chinatown was greasy, when old Market Street was wood. 
 When half the town war restaurants, and all of ’em were gooa. 
 
 Come, you envoy from my Touthland, turn my memory back a cog — 
 Can’t you blow me up a hatful of that San Francisco fog? 
 
 Oh, that fog, fog! 
 
 How it used to fill my brain 
 With a frantic and romantic 
 Sort of Orient refrain. 
 
 O’ er the hilly streets and chilly , 
 
 Energizing as a nog. 
 
 Blew the soul of San Francisco 
 In her fog, in her fog. 
 
 * * * 
 
 Foreign wines are better, maybe— though I love your native stock 
 From the Santa Clara claret to the Napa Valley hock. 
 
 But there’s nothing alcoholic you can send me, if you please. 
 
 Not from Luna’s-by-the-Peppers or from Coppa’ s-by-the- Frieze, 
 
 That will be to me more welcome as a soul-inspiring grog 
 Than a long, rare, ice-cold bottle labeled tc San Francisco Fog.” 
 
 In the fog, in the fog, 
 
 I can revel to the last. 
 
 Nor a headache nor a heartache 
 Will remain when it is past. 
 
 Here’s the salt on wild Pacific, 
 
 Where Adventure lurks incog— 
 
 Come, you ghost of Robert Louis, 
 
 In the fog, in the fog! 
 
 — Wallace Irwin 
 
RESTAURANTS 
 
 dainty refreshments. Three thousand people were served daily 
 in the two establishments. Mr. Winn came here by way of the 
 Isthmus in 1849. He made his start by selling on the street the 
 candy of his own manufa&ure, advertising his wares with the 
 cry, “Here is your own California candy! It has neither come 
 ’round the Horn nor across the Isthmus, but is made in your own 
 city, and none but Winn can make it. Buy it, taste it, try it!” 
 
 A little later than Winn’s restaurant was Peter Job’s on 
 Washington street, opposite Portsmouth Square. The restaurant 
 was plain, but food and service were excellent, and it was a favor- 
 ite place for the ladies. 
 
 At about the same period, on Merchant street near Mont- 
 gomery, was a small place kept by three Swiss, the Jury brothers. 
 This was a favorite place for lawyers, judges and other profes- 
 sional men. A man could reserve a table at Jury’s, walk over 
 to the Clay Street Market opposite and choose his food, return 
 with it in his arms and have it cooked to his order, paying only 
 for the service. The dinners of congenial companions here often 
 lasted from six o’clock until midnight. 
 
 French chefs came from France in early days and opened 
 restaurants of their own. They found markets stocked with the 
 good things of earth-fish, game, fruit and vegetables in great 
 variety and abundance. They found patronage waiting for them- 
 miners, gentlemen adventurers, Spanish and Mexican grandees, 
 who had gold and silver in plenty and were prodigal in spending 
 it. So they stayed on; Chinese cooks learned their art, Italian 
 chefs followed, Spanish and Mexican cooks were here already, 
 and in a city where the chief grocery store aimed to keep such a 
 stock that the citizen of any country of the globe could call for 
 his country’s especial food or condiment, and find it, one may be 
 sure that the restaurants were 
 not behind in catering to the 
 cosmopolitan population. It 
 is possible in San Francisco to 
 dine orlunch in any language; 
 to eat the especial dishes of 
 any civilized country. You 
 may have an Italian dinner, 
 
 [ 1 47] 
 
 The Tait-Zinkand Restaurant. 
 
Our First Restaurants After the Fire. 
 
 SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 as national in its dishes and 
 cooking as if eaten in Siena, 
 a Spanish or Mexican meal 
 as characteristic, a German, 
 a French, a Chinese if you 
 like, or even a Turkish. Or, 
 you may find the bill of fare 
 of some large restaurant as 
 cosmopolitan as the patron- 
 age, and see on one and the 
 same sheet Italian risotto, Mexican enchiladas, Hungarian gou- 
 lash, German sauer beef, the rest divided between French and 
 American dishes. 
 
 The fire of 1906 made a clean, impartial sweep through the 
 old favorites; only one escaped destruction, but San Francisco 
 could not do without her restaurants, and soon they were spring- 
 ing up everywhere, in hastily constructed shelters of board or 
 canvas or in houses made over for the purpose. As the days 
 went by, they grew more elaborate, and in a few months many 
 of them were in full swing, with food and service as good as ever. 
 They moved down town from their temporary quarters when 
 the merchants did and many are now in the old places. There 
 have been a few changes and some consolidations, as Tait and 
 Zinkand, the Portola and the Louvre. Tait’s, before the fire, 
 was in the Flood Building, where the Portola-Louvre is now, 
 and there is no room at present as effective as that was, with its 
 cascades and fountains and play of the electric lights. But the 
 Portola-Louvre is a brilliant French restaurant, gilding its excel- 
 lent cuisine with a fine orchestra, and vaudeville during the late 
 afternoon and evening. Ladies go there in the afternoon for tea, 
 and to enjoy the entertainment. 
 
 The Tait-Zinkand restaurant is thoroughly San Franciscan, 
 high-class but semi-Bohemian. The food is unsurpassed, the 
 room is gaudily decorated, an orchestra in a gallery gives good 
 music, while singers go about on the floor below and sing near 
 one table and then another. This restaurant is a notable sight on 
 New Year’s Eve; tables are engaged here and at other leading 
 restaurants for weeks in advance. New Year’s Eve is observed 
 
 [H8] 
 
RESTAURANTS 
 
 in San Francisco more vociferously than in any other city, yet 
 most of the jollity is pure fun. There is little real dissipation 
 among the revelers. 
 
 Techau’s is a handsomely furnished restaurant, with cuisine 
 and music of the best. 
 
 The Old Poodle Dog has the best of French cooking, a 
 good orchestra, and keeps up the reputation of the name. 
 
 Marchand’s has been recently rebuilt and is a high-grade 
 French restaurant of a more conventional pattern than the others, 
 not so distinctively San Franciscan. 
 
 Jules’ restaurant and Jack’s rotisserie are French restaurants 
 of good reputation for cooking and service, well known to all 
 San Franciscans. 
 
 Louis’ Fashion restaurant must not be omitted, because he 
 is the Louis of the Hotel de France, immortalized by Will Irwin 
 in The City That Was, because his fish and steaks and salads are 
 prepared with discrimination, and lastly, because of the absurd 
 name which was borne by his Fashion restaurant before the fire 
 and which has now spread to as many different places as the name 
 of the Poodle Dog. Though his cooking was good, the care of 
 his dining room was not all it should be, and flies were more or 
 less in evidence. Some one called it the <c Fly-Trap.” The name 
 clung, but it drove no one away, and soon the original name, 
 though on the doors and windows, was forgotten. A waiter from 
 Louis’ started a restaurant of his own after the fire, and named it 
 “Charley’s Fly-Trap.” Another sprang up, and another, the name 
 evidently carrying with it no opprobium, only the memory of the 
 good cooking and reasonable prices of the restaurant which origi- 
 nally bore it. They are all good places, with low prices and, from 
 the Fashion down, have no relations whatever with flies. 
 
 Of the Italian restau- 
 rants, Coppa’s heads the list, 
 in interest at least. It is the 
 one important restaurant not 
 burned, but it is gone from 
 the old spot. There is a new 
 Coppa’s, where the food is as 
 good as ever but otherwise it 
 
 [ 1 49] 
 
 The Portola-Louvre Restaurant. 
 
SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 is a vain endeavor to bring 
 back Coppa’s as it was. The 
 pi&ures lack spontaneity; 
 they are painted to order in 
 absurd imitation of the orig- 
 inal outbursts of the artist 
 frequenters of the old place- 
 all but one. Near the door 
 is a picture of the last reunion 
 in the Montgomery Block 
 of the kindred spirits who had so often dined together. Perhaps 
 the faces are all portraits. Martinez is easily recognized, at the 
 head of the table, lifting high his glass for the last toast. In the 
 shadow lurks the soldier sentinel, a grim reminder of the miles 
 of desolation outside. The place was beloved by artists and 
 writers, and frequented by others who went there to see the 
 “lions,” to enjoy with them the Italian cooking, and to wonder at 
 the curiously decorated walls. Each artist, according to his fancy, 
 and as the spirit moved him, had painted a pi&ure and added a 
 legend, perhaps of his own, perhaps supplied by one of his liter- 
 ary brothers. The quotations were in all languages and ranged 
 from Alice in W onderland ,“ c Curiouser and curiouser,’ said Alice,” 
 to Greek classics. One, from Oscar Wilde’s Salome “ Something 
 terrible is going to happen,” offered grim but unheeded prophecy 
 of the great catastrophe to come. The place was so interesting 
 that the food might have gone uncriticised had it not been of the 
 best, which it was. The fish and sauces, the chicken en casserole 
 and the fried cream were something to be remembered. 
 
 The Montgomery Block passed through the fire nearly 
 unscathed, but it stood in the midst of smoking ruins and miles 
 of almost impassable debris. No citizens were permitted upon the 
 streets at night, there were no lights but the stars and the sol- 
 diers’ campfires. A few nights after the fire had passed, twelve 
 of the old number obtained permission of the officer in charge to 
 meet once more in the old place. The table was spread, candles 
 furnished the lights, and for the last time the fantastic pi&ures 
 looked down upon the familiar faces; for the last time the walls 
 resounded to song and laughter. For it was not to bemoan the 
 
RESTAURANTS 
 
 catastrophe that they met. Some had lost their studios and pic- 
 tures, some their manuscripts-all were more or less adrift; but 
 the courage of San Franciscans was theirs. They closed the old 
 era and faced the new with strong hearts and exultant purpose. 
 And this is the scene represented on the new Coppa’s walls. 
 
 Campi’s is a well-known Italian place of long-standing re- 
 nown for good dinners, many of whose patrons have been with 
 it for a generation. 
 
 On Broadway are the Italian restaurants of Little Italy, 
 where you may have a seven-course dinner for fifty cents-soup, 
 fish, entree, roast, salad, dessert, fruit and a demi-tasse. Here 
 you get Italian pastes in perfection, ravioli, tagliarini, spaghetti, 
 or green lasagne, and tempting fritto misto, each delicately fried 
 tiny roll of batter containing a different surprise— an artichoke 
 heart, a piece of chicken liver, a bit of brains, or some other tidbit. 
 For dessert, zabaione and fried cream are their specialties. In 
 the Fior d’ltalia, or the Buon Gusto, you may easily delude 
 yourself for an hour with the thought that you are on Italian 
 soil, and the waiters (so solicitous to please you, so anxious that 
 you shall enjoy their food) add to the illusion. 
 
 We cannot leave the Italian restaurants without a word of 
 Sanguinetti’s. It is one of the institutions of the old and of the 
 new city, down near the water-front, rather difficult to reach. It 
 has a large patronage, some genuine Bohemians, some make- 
 believe, and some who go to look on. The sawdust on the floor 
 represents the unconventionality and belies the good cooking. 
 Musicians enliven the meals until the diners begin to furnish 
 their own entertainment by breaking into song. In Lhe Heart 
 Line , Gelett Burgess pictures the place, under the name of Car- 
 minetti’s. Coppa’s he depicts under the name of Fulda’s. 
 
 An interesting place be- 
 fore the fire was Luna’s, a 
 Mexican restaurant. Here 
 you could burn your throat 
 with tamales, enchiladas, or 
 chili con carne, eat frijoles 
 from little individual pots, 
 drink delicious chocolate, or 
 
 r 1 5 1 ] 
 
SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 water which had cooled in an olla, and be served by Ricardo, whose 
 portrait Frank Norris drew in Blix. Sometimes Ricardo would 
 bring you the book, open at the passage to ask if you had read 
 it. Luna’s disappeared at the time of the fire, and though we can 
 get the same food now, we miss Ricardo and the foreign little 
 place. 
 
 For oysters in every style, the best places are the big mar- 
 kets— the California, or the Spreckels. The eating rooms are 
 upstairs. Incidentally, the markets are interesting in themselves, 
 with their great variety of tropical, semi-tropical and temperate 
 zone fruit; their fine fish and game in abundance; their veg- 
 etables of all kinds at every season; their dairy products, pastry 
 stalls and flower stalls— everything to furnish a many course din- 
 ner and to decorate the table. 
 
 The grills and dining rooms of the best hotels are always 
 popular, with perfe&ion of service and delicious food. Some of 
 the chefs have reputations which have traveled far. Afternoon 
 tea also brings pleasant little groups together in the hotels. 
 
 For ladies unattended there are innumerable pleasant places, 
 some luxurious, some plainer— all good. The Golden Pheasant, 
 The Pig’n Whistle, Swain’s, The Woman’s Exchange, the Em- 
 porium restaurant, The Tea-cup, The Bon Ami, to name some 
 of them. Men frequent these places too, but they appeal partic- 
 ularly to women. 
 
 This city was late in adopting cafeterias. The San Francis- 
 can demands more than mere food for his meal, and one cannot 
 lunch or dine with art in a cafeteria. But they furnish excellent 
 and wholesome food for a moderate price and there are now a 
 goodly number of them. It is doubtful if they ever become gen- 
 uinely popular here, yet some of them are very well patronized. 
 
 In any class of the restau- 
 rants named, only some of the 
 typical ones have been men- 
 tioned. It would take many 
 pages to name them all. Good 
 ones have been omitted, but 
 a stranger will not err when 
 choosing from the foregoing. 
 
 p5 2 ] 
 
 Laurel Tea Room of the Fairmont. 
 
sJ” 
 
 The Willows, Near Valencia and Seventeenth Streets. The Mission in the Distance. 
 
 Chapter Eighteen • Theaters 
 
 B efore the discovery of gold in 1 848, occasional bull-fights 
 and cock-fights at the Mission were the only forms of 
 , spectacular amusement afforded the dwellers around 
 ) Yerba Buena cove. With the bursting of the little set- 
 tlement into a population numbering thousands, along 
 with churches, schools and newspapers, places of entertainment 
 sprang up with astonishing rapidity, to meet the wants of those 
 whom the rapidly shifting scenes of daily life-dramatic to the 
 last degree-did not satisfy. No sooner was Mr. Rowe’s Olympic 
 Circus opened in a big tent on Kearny street, near Clay, than it 
 was crowded by a public, eager to pay three dollars for a seat in 
 the pit, five dollars for a box place, or fifty-five dollars for a private 
 box. Shortly after, Foley’s Circus on Montgomery street, near 
 California, met with equal success, and the two entertained large 
 audiences for many days and nights. 
 
 In 1 853, Russ’ Garden was opened and a few years later 
 The Willows. Both flourished through the Fifties and afforded 
 the recreation of music and refreshments in the midst of rural 
 surroundings. The former was on the corner of Sixth and Har- 
 rison streets; the latter between Mission and Valencia, Seven- 
 teenth and Nineteenth streets. In 1 861, Hayes Park, on Laguna 
 street, near Hayes, became a popular resort. This in turn gave 
 way, in 1866, before the attractions of Woodward’s Gardens, in 
 which Woodward of the What Cheer House invested the money 
 made in that hotel. His private residence on Valencia street, 
 near Fourteenth, was transformed into a museum. A large pavil- 
 ion served also for dancing hall and theater; refreshment rooms 
 were at hand, and beautiful gardens and lawns, with streams, 
 
 [ 1 5 3 ] 
 
SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 small lakes and fountains sur- 
 rounded the buildings. A 
 well-stocked zoological gar- 
 den, a seal pond, aviary, deer 
 park and art gallery were fur- 
 ther allurements. This pop- 
 ular and widely known resort 
 was a feature of the city for 
 nearly a quarter of a century. 
 
 Woodward’s Gardens. Museum, Once Home of Fremont. The first real drama in 
 
 San Francisco was given in January, 1 850, in a building called 
 Washington Hall, on Washington street, opposite the Plaza. 
 The play, poorly rendered, was Sheridan Knowles’ “The Wife.” 
 When circuses palled on the popular taste, Mr. Rowe converted 
 his tent into a theater and secured a company of English a< 5 tors 
 who were warmly appreciated. A small French theater followed, 
 and then the Dramatic Museum on California street. 
 
 Thomas Maguire, a native of Ireland, was a pioneer theater 
 manager of the Pacific coast. For more than a quarter of a cen- 
 tury he was lessee or owner of the principal theaters of this city. 
 In 1850 he converted a part of the Parker House, on Kearny 
 street, facing the Plaza, into a theater which he named the Jenny 
 Lind. The fire of May 4, 1851, destroyed the building, but the 
 the theater was soon rebuilt by Mr. Maguire and opened under 
 the name of the Jenny Lind No. 2. In less than a month this, 
 too, was burned; but Mr. Maguire’s pluck did not forsake him, 
 and Jenny Lind No. 3, this time of brick, rose on the same site. 
 In 1852 this building was sold to the city for $200,000, to be 
 used for a City Hall, until it gave place in 1896 to the Hall of 
 Justice which was destroyed in the fire of 1906. 
 
 After disposing of the Jenny Lind, Mr. Maguire in 1853 
 opened, on Washington street near Montgomery, the San Fran- 
 cisco Hall, previously conduced by Mrs. Catharine Sinclair. He 
 changed the name soon after to San Francisco Theater, and three 
 years later to Maguire’s Opera House. When Montgomery 
 avenue was cut through, this building was demolished. 
 
 In 1864 Mr. Maguire opened a new building, called the 
 Maguire Academy of Music. The public was entertained here 
 
THEATERS 
 
 until 1 867, when the building was changed into offices and stores. 
 
 As the years went by, the first and second Metropolitan Theaters, 
 the first and second American, the Alhambra (on Bush street, 
 afterwards named Maguire’s New Theater) and Baldwin’s Acad- 
 emy of Music passed into Mr. Maguire’s control. 
 
 In 1853 the Metropolitan was called “the most magnificent 
 temple of histrionic art in America,” and the later theaters, halls, 
 academies of music and opera houses were well abreast of the 
 growing city, both in chara&er of the buildings and in the talent 
 of those who trod their boards. 
 
 In the Jenny Lind No. 3, Mrs. Lewis Baker won the hearts 
 of the people and played for two years to enthusiastic audiences. 
 Her husband was both manager and adtor in several theaters dur- 
 ing their stay, and when, in 1854, they bade farewell to the San 
 Francisco public, they left a stage which they had largely assisted 
 in elevating from a rude and confused condition to one which 
 could be classed with the better theaters of the East. 
 
 In the old Union Theatre on Commercial street, above 
 Kearny, little Lotta Crabtree sang and danced her way into the 
 hearts of the miners. Lashed to the back of a beautiful horse, 
 Ada Isaacs Menken in “Mazeppa” dashed back and forth across 
 the stage of Maguire’s Opera House. On this same stage were 
 seen Junius Brutus Booth and his son, Edwin, the latter just 
 beginning his great career. The home of the Booths overlooked 
 the theater from the slopes of Telegraph Hill. In this theater 
 Thomas W. Keene and Frank Mayo played; here Lawrence 
 Barrett and John McCullough, young men of twenty, supported 
 Edwin Forrest; here Anna Bishop sang and Lola Montez danced. 
 
 At the Metropolitan, Boucicault played his own produc- 
 tions, George Francis Train and Artemus Ward lectured, Par- 
 eppa Rosa and Sconcia were 
 stars in opera. 
 
 In 1866 the two young 
 Irishmen, John McCullough 
 and Lawrence Barrett, came 
 to San Francisco with Edwin 
 Forrest. After their engage- 
 ment with Forrest closed, 
 
 [ l 55] 
 
 Jenny Lind Theater No. 3, Afterwards the City Hall. 
 
The Old California Theater. 
 
 SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 they remained, supporting 
 various stars for a time and, 
 finally they became lessees of 
 the California Theater (on 
 Bush street, above Kearny), 
 built by W. C. Ralston and a 
 company composed of Bank 
 of California magnates. Bar- 
 rett soon retired, leaving Mc- 
 Cullough the sole manager. 
 A list of those who occupied the stage during McCullough’s 
 management includes the name of nearly every great adtor and 
 adtress of the day; and a glorious day of the American stage it 
 was-a day when every first-class theater, such as the California, 
 maintained a stock company, able to furnish support to the star 
 in any play. The star was the only adtor imported. Besides Bar- 
 rett, McCullough and Edwin Booth, there were Barry Sullivan, 
 John T. Raymond, Frank Mayo, Louis James, John E. Owens, 
 the elder Sothern, Mrs. Judah, Annie Pixley, Lotta Crabtree, 
 Sophie Edwin, Madame Janauscheck, Mrs. Bowers, Bella Pate- 
 man and many other names of lustre. As we read the list it 
 seems as if few of their places were now filled, just occupied. Even 
 among the ushers of those old days at the California there were 
 names of mark. In one aisle Walter Wallace, father of Edna, 
 politely led the way, while David Warfield performed the same 
 service in another. 
 
 Throughout its career the old California Theater preserved 
 its ideals of high-class plays and adtors. The old theater was torn 
 down, to make way for the California Hotel, a part of which was 
 occupied by a new California Theater, which extended for a time 
 the traditions of the first; but the population shifted, other 
 theaters were more accessible, and at the time of the fire it was 
 only occasionally occupied. 
 
 In 1873 Doctor Thomas Wade, a dentist of San Francisco, 
 who had accumulated a fortune, projedled an opera house which 
 should be the equal of any in the United States. He chose a site 
 in the Mission for it, between Third and Fourth streets. His 
 plans were carried out by a stock company and the house was 
 
THEATERS 
 
 opened in 1876. In compliment to its projector, it was named 
 at its opening Wade’s Opera House, which was later changed 
 to the Grand Opera House, the name at first chosen by its 
 founder. It had a seating capacity of three thousand, was hand- 
 somely decorated and lighted, and had every device then known 
 for safety, comfort and stage effects. In this house on the eve 
 of the fateful April 18, 1906, a grand opera troupe, with Madame 
 Eames and Caruso as leading singers, were rendering “Carmen” 
 to a crowded house. The next night opera singers and many of 
 the audience were sleeping in the streets. 
 
 The old Tivoli was a semi-Bohemian but entirely respedt- 
 able house, where good operas were rendered acceptably at pop- 
 ular prices. It was upon this stage that Tetrazzini won her laurels. 
 Since the fire the location has been occupied by temporary city 
 offices, but a new Tivoli is now about to replace the old. It will 
 be a handsome nine-story building, up-to-date in every detail. 
 A grand organ, to be used for oratorios or for special orchestral 
 effedts, will be a part of the equipment. The promenade, a feature 
 of the old Tivoli, will be on the balcony floor. Here men may 
 smoke, and at small tables refreshments will be served without 
 disturbing the audience below. 
 
 A leading theater of the city for years was the Baldwin which, 
 with the Baldwin Hotel Building, was destroyed by fire in 1898. 
 The present Flood Building occupies the site. 
 
 The great fire made a clean sweep of every theater in the 
 city. Regret for them was swallowed up in losses which seemed 
 more important; but San Franciscans, pursuing their strenuous 
 daily rounds through scenes swept bare of ameliorating diversions, 
 felt the need of something to relieve the strain and stimulate the 
 imagination. Magazines were distributed among the tent-dwell- 
 ers, libraries hastened to re- 
 open, and soon a large tent 
 with board seats, and hastily 
 built rooms with a platform 
 at one end, were made ready 
 to beguile with opera, play or 
 vaudeville “stunt” the audi- 
 ences which eagerly flocked 
 
 [ 1 57] 
 
 The Columbia Theater. 
 
 
SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 to them through streets still half-choked with debris. It was not 
 long before really comfortable play-houses were built, but in 
 such unwonted sections of the city-all of them west of Fillmore 
 street except one, which was on Van Ness avenue. 
 
 Valencia Theater.-TIic first permanent new theater was 
 built on Valencia street, a handsome structure of concrete. For a 
 time a good stock company rendered it popular; but with the 
 rebuilding of the old down-town theaters, it no longer seemed so 
 accessible as at first, and it is not now continuously open. 
 
 The Columbia Theater on Geary street, near Mason, is 
 one of the two leading theaters of the city, and is reckoned, as 
 before the fire, a high-class one. 
 
 The Cort Theater on Ellis street, near Market, is new. It 
 is, like the Columbia, devoted to the better class of plays, as plays 
 run now-a-days, and is, in a way its rival, as it is outside the trust. 
 
 The Savoy is a good theater on McAllister street, near 
 Market. The name and building are new since the fire. 
 
 The Alcazar on O’Farrell street, between Stockton and 
 Powell, maintains the only stock company in the city. From its 
 earliest days, before the fire, it has given the people good drama 
 for little money, and it is held in affeCtion by many people. 
 
 The Orpheum on O’Farrell street, near Powell, in a fine 
 and well-adapted building, is a part of the largest vaudeville cir- 
 cuit in the United States. It is open each afternoon and evening. 
 
 The success of the Orpheum has given rise to other vaude- 
 ville houses which furnish similar entertainment. The Pantages 
 and the Empress on Market street are two of them. 
 
 The city is now better supplied with play-houses than ever 
 before. The demand for such places of amusement has been fast 
 growing during the past few years. San Francisco has met the 
 
 requirements, and new ones 
 are being planned; but as yet 
 there is no really adequate 
 house for the production of 
 grand opera. One has been 
 mentioned as a part of the new 
 Civic Center, and will doubt- 
 less be materialized ere long. 
 
 [■ 58 ] 
 
 The Orpheum. 
 
Pacific-Union Clubhouse (Formerly the Flood Residence) and the Fairmont. 
 
 Chapter Nineteen • Clubs, Societies, Lodges 
 
 his is the age of clubs and organizations. Every new 
 
 I idea is the nucleus of a society. Some move on to 
 achievement of their object; some ripple the surface, 
 and are gone. San Francisco is full of them; men’s 
 clubs and women’s clubs, some purely social, some 
 altruistic, some political, while a mingling of two or all of these 
 attributes characterizes others. 
 
 The Pacific-Union CLUB.-Of the men’s social clubs, the 
 oldest is probably the Pacific-Union Club, which represents much 
 of the wealth and dignity of the city. It was formed by the con- 
 solidation in 1889 of the Pacific Club, organized in 1852, and 
 the Union Club, organized two years later. It now occupies the 
 fine old brownstone Flood mansion opposite the Fairmont Hotel. 
 The walls of the house stood inta6l after the fire. The property 
 was purchased by the Club, the house refitted and the semi-cir- 
 cular wings added. 
 
 The Bohemian CLUB.-There is only one Bohemian Club. 
 Elsewhere there are Authors’ clubs, and Adlors’ clubs, and Musi- 
 cal clubs, Social clubs which include a few from them all; but 
 nowhere else is there such a club of wit and art and musical 
 ability, such a spirit of good fellowship, combined with such 
 genius in so many different lines. 
 
 The club was organized in 1872. As a passport to member- 
 ship achievement in literature or art was needful. Later, less orna- 
 mental attainment in science or business was included, but all 
 members are clubable men who have given of their best for the 
 club’s joy. Pictures were painted, music composed, prose and 
 poems written, not to go outside the club circle. The old Bohe- 
 
 [ 1 59] 
 
SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 mian Club Building was on Grant avenue and Post street. Its 
 walls had been lovingly adorned by the artist members, or en- 
 riched with caricatures as dear to the club as the more dignified 
 pi&ures. There was a fine library particularly rich in Califor- 
 niana. The club had entertained nearly every man of note who 
 came to San Francisco, and what memories they carried away of 
 hours of feast and fun and of intelledual enjoyment! The club 
 house was burned and few of its treasures saved, but a handsome 
 new building at Post and Taylor streets is now accumulating a 
 new hoard of pictures, books and Bohemian associations. 
 
 Even more prized by the members than their club house is 
 their superb grove of redwood trees on the Russian river, near 
 Guerneville. Here at the time of full moon in August are held 
 the Midsummer Jinks of the club. No fears of rain to spoil the 
 outing need intrude. The weather is sure to be fine. From five 
 to six hundred members of the club are seated at tables arranged 
 in concentric circles among the glorious trees, and partake of a 
 perfectly served dinner of many courses. Dinner and speeches 
 over, comes the forest play or musical drama. The writer of the 
 play, or “Sire,” is one of the club's literary men; the music has 
 been composed by one of the club's musical geniuses. All has 
 been prepared with special reference to the place and time. The 
 audience arranges itself on benches of logs. The great trees, old 
 at the beginning of the Christian era, tower above like cathedral 
 spires. The stage arrangements are blended into the natural 
 scene. No theater has such a setting. Two giant redwoods mark 
 the sides of the stage; behind rises a hill clothed with trees and 
 shrubbery, with half-hidden paths down which processions wind. 
 The play over, Care is buried with elaborate ceremonies. The 
 morning following, which is Sunday, a symphony concert is given. 
 
 Some of the plays given 
 have been “The Hamadry- 
 ads,” by Will Irwin, “The 
 Triumph of Bohemia,” by 
 George Sterling, “Montezu- 
 ma,” by Louis Robertson, 
 “Saint Patrick in Tara,” by 
 Henry Morse Stephens of 
 
 [ i6 °] 
 
Tapestry Room of the 
 St. Francis. 
 
She laughed upon her hills out there 
 Beside her bays of misty blue; 
 The gayest hearts, the sweetest air 
 That a?iy City ever knew . 
 
 — Wallace Irwin. 
 
CLUBS, SOCIETIES, LODGES 
 
 the University of California, and cc The Green Knight,” by Por- 
 ter Garnett. The music of cc Montezuma” was by DoCtor Stewart; 
 that of “Saint Patrick in Tara,” by Wallace Sabin. These for- 
 est plays are a new creation in dramatic literature, as distinctive 
 as they are original. 
 
 The Olympic CLUB.-Next to the Bohemian club house on 
 Post street is the splendid new home of the Olympic Club, a 
 $43 5,000 building, equipped with salt and fresh water baths, a 
 mammoth swimming pool, tennis and handball courts on the 
 roof and everything needful and appropriate for the city’s most 
 important athletic club. The salt water is piped from the beach 
 near the Cliff House, over five miles. 
 
 The California Camera Club is the largest organization 
 of its kind in the West. It has rooms in the Commercial Build- 
 ing at 833 Market street. 
 
 The Commercial Club.— This is an all-day club composed 
 of merchants, bankers and professional men, with club rooms in 
 the Merchants’ Exchange Building. 
 
 The Commonwealth Club is a notable organization. It 
 began with the meeting together of a few men who were interested 
 in good government affairs. The published investigations of 
 their committees and the addresses that were made at their gath- 
 erings attracted wide-spread attention. The club grew until now 
 its membership is over the thousand mark. It has reached out 
 all over the State and numbers among its members many of the 
 best and highest thinking men in California. At present it has 
 no club house, but it has comfortable rooms, with a reference 
 library for the use of members. Its only meetings are in the 
 form of monthly banquets at the St. Francis Hotel, which are 
 attended by several hundred men, and the discussions are char- 
 acterized by perfeCt frank- 
 ness and the keenest analysis 
 of public questions. By all 
 persons interested in civic af- 
 fairs their published proceed- 
 ings are prized. The club has 
 never engaged in politics, 
 its members representing all 
 
 [ i6i 1 
 
 The Bohemian Clubhouse and the Olympic. 
 
 fiPf- • 
 
ii s M‘W 
 
 , m' 
 
 ® a a 
 
 » 1 -Pm* 1 
 
 : 8§ W 
 
 - S 1 
 
 
 SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 creeds and political parties; 
 but, inevitably, much legisla- 
 tion has been initiated and 
 influenced by it, and it is a 
 substantial and powerful fac- 
 tor for good in the public life 
 of California. Besides regular 
 club meetings informal week- 
 ly luncheons at the Palace 
 
 The Olympic Club’s Splendid New Home. FI O tel ate largely attended. 
 
 Concordia Club.— This is one of the leading Jewish social 
 clubs. Its building is on Van Ness avenue. 
 
 The Cosmos Club.— The home of the Cosmos Club is at 
 1534 Sutter street. This club was organized in 1881. 
 
 The Elks Building.— The Elks have a pretty building on 
 Powell street, between Sutter and Bush. 
 
 The Family Club is a dignified club of social prestige. It 
 has a handsome building at Bush and Powell streets. 
 
 A German House, which for several years has been the 
 dream of the German- American residents of San Francisco, has 
 become a realization. On March 25, 1912, the corner-stone was 
 laid of a splendid $400,000 building, to be the home of the 
 German societies which have not a building of their own and the 
 center for all German societies of the Pacific slope. The site is 
 the corner of Polk and Turk streets, near the Civic Center— an 
 ideal location. 
 
 Masonic Temple.-A new Masonic Temple, at the corner 
 of Van Ness avenue and Oak street, will cost when completed 
 and furnished over $1,000,000. The ground cost $257,000. 
 
 Native Sons of the Golden WEST.-This organization is 
 one of the largest and most potent in the State. Its San Fran- 
 cisco “Parlors” and those of the Native Daughters are scattered 
 throughout the city. The order has replaced on Mason street, 
 between Geary and Post, the fine building lost in the fire. Six 
 bas relief panels in terra cotta, modeled by J. J. Mora, are a 
 striking feature of the building. The panels depid: epochs in the 
 history of California. The first portrays the Indians watching the 
 coming of the caravels; the second, Father Serra delivering the 
 
 [162] 
 
CLUBS, SOCIETIES, LODGES 
 
 gospel message to the Indians; the third, the raising of the Bear 
 flag; the fourth, the raising of the American flag at Monterey; the 
 fifth, the coming of the pioneers; the sixth, the miners at work. 
 
 The Odd Fellows Building stands on its old site at the 
 corner of Market and Seventh streets. Most other secret soci- 
 eties, whose number is legion (both men's and the affiliated orders 
 for women), have not yet their own buildings, but rent rooms 
 suitable for their purposes in various parts of the city. This is 
 true also of most of the benevolent and benefit societies, which 
 include innumerable orders of all nationalities. 
 
 The San Francisco Press Club, composed largely of the 
 newspapermen, has its headquarters in the Commercial Build- 
 ing, 833 Market street. 
 
 The San Francisco Turn Verein is the city's oldest Ger- 
 man athletic society. It was organized in 1852. A handsome 
 new home, costing $75,000, has been recently erected on Sutter 
 street, between Devisadero and Broderick. 
 
 Scottish Rite Temples.-Oh the corner of Sutter street 
 and Van Ness avenue stands a handsome stone building which 
 is a Scottish Rite Temple. Another is on Geary, near Steiner. 
 
 Scottish Thistle CLUB.-The home of the San Francisco 
 Scottish Thistle Club is in Scottish Hall, 121 Larkin street. 
 
 Society of California Pioneers.— This society is a ven- 
 erated organization, composed as it is of men who have seen Cal- 
 ifornia from its birth. It received a large bequest from James 
 Lick. With this the society built the Pioneer Building on Pio- 
 neer Place (Fourth street, near Market), their headquarters for 
 many years. Their rooms were rich in relics of early California 
 days, documents, diaries, maps, histories. They were the custo- 
 dians of the Bear flag, raised in Sonoma. These were practically 
 all destroyed by the fire-an 
 irretrievable loss; they had a 
 value not to be measured. 
 
 The destruction of such irre- 
 placeable mementoes as these 
 is one of the most regretted 
 phases of the calamity of six 
 years ago. A new building 
 
 [ i 6 3 ] 
 
The Home of the University Club. 
 
 SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 has been erected on the old 
 site. Their annual celebration 
 is on the ninth of September, 
 a State holiday— the anniver- 
 sary of the admission of Cal- 
 ifornia into the Union. The 
 Daughters of the California 
 Pioneers have an organiza- 
 tion which also holds meet- 
 ings in Pioneer Hall. 
 
 The Southern Club has a handsome building on the south 
 side of California street, between Powell and Stockton. This 
 building is in southern Colonial style, of Caen stone and tapestry 
 brick, with tall-columned portico and balconies. On the lawn 
 will be a statue of General Robert E. Lee. 
 
 State Societies.— There are a number of flourishing State 
 societies, whose members enjoy exchanging reminiscences of their 
 “back East” homes, such as societies embracing natives of New 
 York, of Ohio, of Vermont, of Illinois, et cetera. 
 
 The Transportation Club.-TIus is an association of men 
 connected with the various railroad offices in the city, with head- 
 quarters in the Palace Hotel. 
 
 The Union League Club is the leading Republican polit- 
 ical organization of the city and State, with finely fitted quarters 
 in the building on the corner of O’Farrell and Powell streets. 
 
 The University Club has a handsome new brick building 
 on the corner of California and Powell streets. It has a large 
 •membership. A Ladies’ Department gives the relatives of mem- 
 bers some of the privileges of the club. 
 
 University and College CLUBS.-There are separate col- 
 lege clubs and alumni associations of the leading universities and 
 colleges of the United States— a Harvard, or a Cornell Club, etc. 
 
 The Young Men’s Christian Association.-THs organ- 
 ization has a new and perfectly equipped building on Golden Gate 
 avenue and Leavenworth street. It lost a comparatively new 
 building in the fire but, by selling its valuable old site and with 
 liberal donations from Eastern friends, it has acquired a better 
 building than before. 
 
 [ i 6 4 ] 
 
CLUBS, SOCIETIES, LODGES 
 
 The Young Men’s Hebrew Association has its headquar- 
 ters at present on Page street, near Stanyan. It is preparing to 
 move down town in order to extend larger hospitality to visitors 
 of its faith, during the Panama-Pacific International Exposition. 
 
 The Young Women’s Christian Association headquar- 
 ters are at 1249 O’Farrell street and the adjoining new building. 
 
 The Woman’s Christian Temperance Union headquar- 
 ters are at 3 City Hall avenue, room 202. 
 
 G. A. R. Posts are scattered throughout the city, with their 
 auxiliaries, the Woman’s Relief Corps. The Daughters and The 
 Sons of the American Revolution and likewise The Daughters 
 of the Confederacy have their various chapters. There is also 
 an association of Colonial Dames and a Mayflower Society. 
 
 Women’s Clubs.— Some of the more important of the wo- 
 men’s clubs and their places of meeting are as follows: The 
 California Club owns an attractive club house at 1 750 Clay street. 
 The Laurel Hall Club, the oldest of the women’s clubs, meets 
 at the same place, also the San Franciscan Colony of New Eng- 
 land Women and The Association of Collegiate Alumnae. The 
 Elmira College Club of the Pacific Coast meets at the homes of 
 members. The Mills Club, The Forum Club and the Cercle de 
 l’Union have rooms at 220 Post street. The Association of Pio- 
 neer Women and The Daughters of the California Pioneers meet 
 in the Pioneer Building on Pioneer Place, near Market and 
 Fourth streets. Tokalon Club holds its meetings in the social 
 rooms of Calvary Presbyterian church. The Woman’s Press 
 Association meets at 257 Post street. The rooms of the Town 
 and Country Club are at 218 Stockton street. The Century 
 Club house is located on the southwest corner of Franklin and 
 Sutter streets. The Channing Auxiliary meets in the First Uni- 
 tarian church, at Geary and 
 Franklin streets. The Coun- 
 cil of Jewish Women meets 
 at 2137 Sutter street. The 
 Papyrus Club rooms are at 
 420 Sutter street. The Fran- 
 cisca Club is housed at 560 
 Sutter street. 
 
 [ 1 6 5 ] 
 
Russian Hill. The Bay, Alcatraz and Angel Islands. 
 
 Chapter Twenty • Libraries 
 
 4 lmost the greatest loss sustained through the fire of 1906 
 is that of the San Francisco libraries, public and pri- 
 / — ^ vate. The Public Library, the eighth in size in the 
 jt JL United States, lost three-fourths of its large collection. 
 
 The Mechanics’-Mercantile suffered a loss of 200,000 
 volumes. Of the 200,000 volumes composing the Sutro collec- 
 tion, 75,000 perished. The San Francisco law library, 35,000 
 volumes, and the library of the Supreme Court, 10,000 volumes, 
 were destroyed. The medical libraries, the library for the blind, 
 the library of the Academy of Sciences, the French library, the 
 Bohemian Club library, that of the Society of California Pio- 
 neers, to mention only a part of those of a public character, all 
 disappeared-a total of 700,000 volumes. Adding to these the 
 private collections, the loss reaches the million mark. But fig- 
 ures cannot represent the loss. The research and reference books 
 of the Mechanics’-Mercantile library were very valuable and 
 many of them cannot be replaced. The same is true of many of 
 the collections of scientific books, and of the 4,000 black-letter 
 manuscripts of the Sutro collection. The loss of the library of 
 the Society of California Pioneers was incalculable, containing as 
 it did old diaries and maps, and twelve bound volumes of type- 
 written reminiscences of pioneers, which some one had been suf- 
 ficiently thoughtful to have transcribed before it was too late-not 
 the observations of trained observers, of course, and sometimes 
 befogged perhaps by lapsing memories, but lending life and vivid 
 coloring to those by-gone days as nothing now can do. Lamenting 
 such losses, it has been said that it should be made a capital of- 
 fense to store irreplaceable books in an inflammable building. 
 
 [166] 
 
LIBRARIES 
 
 Though the loss sustained by the public libraries was a 
 serious one, and even yet hampers many in their work, who shall 
 estimate the loss of private libraries, the best beloved books, 
 collected often through self-denial; the precious gifts of friends, 
 or of the authors, often annotated and interleaved-what number 
 of dollars can represent their loss, the difference their absence 
 makes in individual lives? If we love books at all, next to our 
 friends they are our dearest possessions. To note one instance 
 out of the many cruel deeds wrought by the fire, George Hamlin 
 Fitch, for many years literary editor of the San Francisco Chron- 
 icle , left his home the first day of the fire to see what was hap- 
 pening down town, not dreaming it could travel so far unchecked. 
 When he returned, a few hours later, a cordon of soldiers around 
 the block forbade his entrance. His house did not burn till 
 seven hours later. Had he been allowed to enter it, he could 
 have carried away in his pockets and suit cases a few of the most 
 precious of his volumes, but he could save not even one. He 
 said, a few weeks later: “For myself, nothing would have mat- 
 tered had I been able to save my books, or even a quarter of 
 them. From my fourteenth year, book collecting has been my 
 one absorbing hobby. * * Hundreds of these books were gifts 
 of authors; they were enriched with autograph inscriptions and, 
 in many cases, with letters from their authors. * * These treas- 
 ures were gone beyond recall. The companions of years, whose 
 pages I had sought when weary with work, or depressed by grief, 
 were lost to me forever. Dear beyond all expression, gathered 
 with infinite labor at the cost of many sacrifices, they vanished in 
 a brief hour.” This was one instance out of many, and Mr. Fitch, 
 like others who lost all material possessions, struck the same high 
 note of courage as the rest when he added, “Yet out of this crush- 
 ing loss, one emerges with the 
 courage to form a new col- 
 lection, for life still remains, 
 and courage and fortitude and 
 the power of work.” 
 
 The “courage to form a 
 new colleCtion”asserted itself 
 immediately with the trustees 
 
 [167] 
 
 Reading and Stack Room, of Mechanics’ -Mercantile 
 Library. 
 
SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 of public and quasi-public 
 libraries, and in a surprisingly 
 short time pleasant tempo- 
 rary buildings arose, comfort- 
 ably furnished, their tables 
 strewn with the accustomed 
 periodicals and their shelves 
 stocked with goodly collec- 
 tions of books. In the down- 
 
 Mercantile Library Building on Bush Street , 1868. tOWn Wastes of brick and 
 
 ashes, those rooms were oases of rest and refreshment. Wearied 
 with the dust and debris of the streets, the clang of hammer, the 
 creak of pulley and shouts of workmen as the new buildings 
 arose, those quiet places soothed the spirits and sweetened the 
 daily round of unusual cares. The dazed brains were roused by 
 the fresh new books to read at home— and some of the homes 
 were such strange and unhomelike places. If ever the last new 
 novel had a useful place, it was then ! Those who rebuilt San 
 Francisco knew what was needed, when libraries and theaters 
 were among the first things to be restored. 
 
 Two branch libraries of the Public Library were not burned. 
 Their contents, and the one-fourth saved of the main library, 
 made the nucleus of a new collection which has been growing 
 ever since. The temporary main building is now on Hayes street, 
 near Van Ness avenue. Plans are completed for a new $600,000 
 building, probably to be erected soon. There are six branches 
 now in operation: No. 1 at 1207 Valencia street, No. 2 at Pond 
 and Sixteenth streets, No. 3 at 1457 Powell street, No. 4 at 254 
 Fourth avenue, No. 5 at Page street near Cole, and No. 6 at 2435 
 Sacramento street. They are open daily from 9 a. m. to 9 p. m. 
 
 A few years before the fire, the library of the Mechanics’ 
 Institute and the Mercantile Library were consolidated under 
 the name of Mechanics’-Mercantile. The books were housed in 
 the building of the Mechanics’ Institute. 
 
 The Mercantile Library was organized in 1 853, cc to with- 
 draw youths in particular from haunts of dissipation, and to give 
 to persons of every age and occupation the means of mental 
 improvement.” Subscriptions were solicited and the library was 
 
 [ l6 8] 
 
LIBRARIES 
 
 opened in rooms on the second floor ot the old California Ex- 
 change. They had a ledlure room, a reading room supplied with 
 local papers and later the leading magazines and reviews. The 
 library embracedi,500 volumes the first year, and reached 3,000 a 
 year later, including standard works in English, besides many in 
 Spanish, French and German. For a time the association flour- 
 ished. Later its indebtedness became heavy, and to assist it to 
 regain a new foothold, a bill was introduced in the State Legis- 
 lature in 1 8 70 by J ohn S. Hagar, authorizing cc three public enter- 
 tainments, at which personal property, real estate or valuables 
 might be disposed of, by chance, raffle, or other scheme of like 
 charadter”-a lottery in short, which was plainly contrary to the 
 State Constitution. Nevertheless, the bill passed, and the follow- 
 ing summer, in a pavilion which the Mechanics’ Institute had 
 built in Union Square for their expositions, were held three con- 
 certs, supplemented by drawings of prizes, “a three days’ carnival 
 of gambling, ’’says Theodore Hittell, cc under the auspices of Gov- 
 ernor and Legislature, in which nearly all the population, includ- 
 ing the school children, was insidiously drawn, and at which half 
 a million dollars was made.” 
 
 The library had another period of prosperity. Ten or 
 twelve years ago, the association eredted a building for itself on 
 Van Ness avenue. This was sold later, and finally arrangements 
 were made to join their fine collection of books with that of the 
 Mechanics’ Institute. 
 
 The latter association was formed in 1855, and soon had a 
 good reading room and library. For many years after 1857, 
 industrial fairs were held by the association, first in a pavilion 
 built for the purpose on a lot where the Lick House later stood, 
 then in one eredted in Union Square, and still later in an immense 
 building on their own lot on 
 Larkin street, between Grove 
 and Hayes. At the time of 
 the fire the library building 
 was on its present site. After 
 the fire a pretty and comfort- 
 able temporary building was 
 eredted on the pavilion lot 
 
 [ i 6 9 ] 
 
 
 T 
 
 First Mechanics’ Pavilion, Post, Montgomery and 
 Market Streets. 
 
 ■■■■■ 
 
SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 and served their patrons until the permanent home could be built. 
 They have now a handsome building, at 57 Post street, the old 
 library site. Their new collection of 35,000 volumes, while leav- 
 ing much to be desired, contains many rare scientific works. 
 Of course, many of their losses can never be replaced. Their 
 reading and book rooms are very convenient. The library is 
 open from 9 a. m. to 9 p. m. 
 
 The French Library lost 25,000 volumes by the fire. It is 
 now open with a new collection, at 126 Post street. The hours 
 are from 2 to 6 and from 8 to 10 p. m . daily, except Sundays and 
 holidays. 
 
 The Polish Society, organized in 1862, has a library which 
 is open every Saturday from 8 to 10 p . m ., at St. Helen’s Hall, 
 1091 Fifteenth street, corner of Market. 
 
 The splendid library of St. Ignatius College, lost by fire, 
 is being restored. It contained over one hundred thousand vol- 
 umes, many of them very rare. 
 
 Most fortunately, 1 25,000 volumes of the Sutro library were 
 stored, at the time of the fire, in the Montgomery block which 
 did not burn. These include 2,300 Japanese manuscripts, a large 
 number of books printed in Mexico (from the earliest times to 
 the present), second and third folios of Shakespeare, first and 
 second folios of Ben Jonson, prayer-books of James the First 
 and Charles the Second, and a large collection of English and 
 American pamphlets. This library is not yet available for public 
 use, though negotiations with heirs of Sutro are now pending. 
 
 The Bancroft library, bought by theUniversity of California, 
 had happily been removed before the fire. It is a marvelous and 
 comprehensive collection of historical material relating mostly to 
 the Pacific Coast, gathered by Hubert Howe Bancroft from all 
 
 parts of Europe and Mexico. 
 Medical, law, scientific and 
 club libraries are partially re- 
 stored, but it will be many 
 more years before San Fran- 
 ciscans cease to feel the losses 
 they have suffered in the de- 
 struction of their books. 
 
 [170] 
 
 Library Building of University of California. 
 
Building for Academy of Sciences. Courtesy of the Architect , Lewis P. Hobart. 
 
 Chapter Twenty-one • Museums • Art Galleries 
 
 he Anthropological MusEUM.-This museum ranks 
 
 I as one of the four greatest institutions of its kind in 
 the United States. Its existence is owing to the gen- 
 erosity of Mrs. Phoebe Hearst. It has been ten years 
 in preparation and represents an outlay of over one 
 million dollars in excavations in Egypt, Greece and Peru, and in 
 collecting from the rapidly disappearing Indian tribes of western 
 America specimens of their domestic utensils, implements, arti- 
 cles of dress, canoes, and whatever illustrates their daily life. In 
 addition, the Indian traditions and languages have been perma- 
 nently preserved by means of phonographic records. Dr.Reisner, 
 who has been in charge of the explorations, states that for two 
 million dollars the Egyptian collection alone could not be repro- 
 duced, and the Peruvian and Grecian collections are worth several 
 times the outlay for them; while the collection illustrating modes 
 of life among the Indians is priceless to the student of anthro- 
 pology— since some of the tribes have disappeared, others are dis- 
 appearing, and most of their articles of use and adornment are 
 perishable. The museum also represents an enormous amount 
 of labor on the part of the curator. Dr. A. L. Kroeber, and his 
 assistants. There are about 76,000 specimens, all representing 
 “Man and His Works” (the motto of the museum), all illustrat- 
 ing the rise or the decadence of certain civilizations. 
 
 The museum occupies the three floors of the western of the 
 three yellow buildings on the Sutro hill, which are called the 
 Affiliated Colleges, all being a part of the University of California. 
 
 Near the approach to the museum stands a totem pole, 
 forty feet high, carved from a single cedar log by the Haida 
 
 b7d 
 
SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 Indians of the Queen Char- 
 lotte Islands, the most expert 
 carvers among the American 
 Indians. 
 
 The museum is open each 
 day, except Monday, from 
 io A. m. to 4 p. m. Hayes 
 street and Masonic avenue 
 car, No. 6, will convey one 
 
 Room in Golden Gate Park Museum. direCtly tO the doOT. 
 
 T he California Academy of Sciences, which owed its large 
 development to a bequest of James Lick, lost by fire its entire 
 study collections, large museum and library. The study collec- 
 tions and the fine library accumulated since the fire are in tem- 
 porary quarters at 343 Sansome street. Here the director of the 
 museum, Mr. Leverett Mills Loomis, and the curators of the 
 various departments of natural history are working, making ready 
 for the new building of the Academy Museum which is to be 
 ereCted in Golden Gate Park. Since the fire they have prepared 
 nearly eighteen thousand birds, with reptiles, inseCts, et cetera, 
 to correspond. The birds embrace the finest collection of water 
 fowl in the world. The old Market Street site is occupied by the 
 new Commercial Building, belonging to the academy, leased in 
 toto for shops and offices. 
 
 The Park MusEUM.-The museum in Golden Gate Park 
 is a valuable collection most interesting to the general public. 
 There are about 89,000 specimens, valued at over a million dol- 
 lars. About half are natural history specimens on the second 
 floor. Downstairs, on one side of the entrance hall, is a room 
 devoted to relics of the early Spanish days; across the hall are 
 Colonial relics from the other side of the continent; between is 
 a long series of rooms devoted to textiles, ceramics, metal work, 
 jewels, fans, ancient furniture, Indian relics, South Sea curios, et 
 cetera. This museum is open daily from 10 A. M. to 4 p. m., 
 and until 5 p. m. on Sundays and holidays. 
 
 State Development Board and Mining Bureau Exhib- 
 ITS.-On the second floor of the Ferry Building are two interesting 
 and valuable collections. The State Development Board has an 
 
MUSEUMS, ART GALLERIES 
 
 exhibition of the State’s agricultural and horticultural productions 
 which gives a vivid idea of the great variety of plant life the soil 
 of California can produce. Hardy and semi-tropical fruits are 
 side by side, and the array of grains and vegetables is bewilder- 
 ing. The State Mining Bureau shows the mineral productions 
 of the State. There is also an exhibition of structural materials, 
 and an extensive general mineralogical museum. LeCtures, with 
 stereopticon views, are given from 2 to 4 every afternoon. 
 
 Sutro Bath MusEUM.-In the Sutro Baths, near the Cliff* 
 House, is a miscellaneous museum well worth a visit. 
 
 The Oakland MusEUM.-Across the bay, in Oakland, is an 
 interesting and instructive museum, especially rich in Colonial 
 relics— furniture, textiles, clothing, including a case of ancient 
 bonnets, articles of household use, chinaware and glassware, and 
 implements for the farm. The museum occupies a commodious 
 house on Oak street, bordering Lake Merritt. It is open daily 
 from 10 to 5, except Sunday, when from 2 to 6 are the hours. 
 To reach it from San Francisco, take a Key Route or a “Nar- 
 row Gauge” Southern Pacific ferryboat. From the Key Route 
 boat take the Twelfth Street Oakland train to Broadway, and 
 an East Oakland street car, which passes the lake. From the 
 Southern Pacific boat, take train to Fourteenth street, and from 
 there an East Oakland street car to the lake. 
 
 University of California MusEUM.-In the grounds of 
 the University of California in Berkeley is a corrugated iron 
 building, the temporary quarters of a large collection of casts from 
 Grecian and Roman sculpture, and of a museum of synoptic 
 anthropology. The museum is open to the public Wednesday 
 and Friday from 1 to 4 in the afternoons. 
 
 Art Galleries.— Will Irwin, in his incomparable pasan to 
 The City That JVas, dwells 
 upon the art sense of the 
 people “which sets it off from 
 any other population of the 
 country.” He says: “This 
 sense is Latin in its strength 
 and the Californian owes it 
 to the leaven of Latin in his 
 
 [ 1 73 ] 
 
 Hall in Golden Gate Park Museum. 
 
SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 blood.” He owes it even more to the climate (to the sun, to the 
 blue of the sky, to the witchery of the atmosphere-now wrapping 
 the city in mysterious folds of mist; now sparklingly clear, 
 exhilarating as wine) and to contact with the people of so many 
 different nations, each with something of his own art to contrib- 
 ute. Whatever the explanation, few cities of like size can claim 
 to have been the home of so many painters, sculptors, writers, 
 aCtors and musicians. As they have attained fame, most of them 
 (except the artists) have wandered far afield. A large colony of 
 successful painters still call San Francisco home. Alas, that so 
 many works of art should have perished in the fire! Keith alone 
 lost nearly two thousand canvases. Though nearly seventy years 
 of age, he set to work before the flames were quenched and in a 
 year an exhibition of his paintings showed more than three score 
 canvases painted since the fire, with all his old-time genius. That 
 magic brush that fixed on canvas every variation of Californian 
 atmosphere and landscape is laid aside forever, but some treasure 
 that he wrought is to be found in almost every local gallery. 
 
 There are in San Francisco two permanent public collections 
 of paintings. One is in the museum of Golden Gate Park. Here 
 are several rooms of fine paintings, which include a Millet, a 
 Daubigny, a Dupre and other names known to fame. One room 
 is devoted to local artists. The large entrance hall is filled with 
 sculpture, a Saul by W. W. Story being the noblest piece. 
 
 Another collection is in the San Francisco Institute of Art 
 at Mason and California streets. This is the site of the costly 
 Mark Hopkins home which, with the nucleus of a picture col- 
 lection, was given to the city for an art institute by Mr. Edward 
 Searles, the second husband of Mrs. Hopkins. Paintings had 
 been added by generous donors until the collection was a very 
 
 fine one. The house itself 
 was magnificent within, over- 
 decorated in style and elab- 
 orate in detail. It was the 
 scene of many large recep- 
 tions, the great central hall, 
 with its gallery and large pipe 
 organ, and the suite of spa- 
 
 [ 1 74] 
 
Sailing on San 
 
 Francisco Bay. Mt. Tamalpais in 
 the Distance. Photograph 
 by F. X. Riedy. 
 
San Francisco Bay . 
 
 * * * 
 
 Such room of sea! Such room of sky! 
 
 Such room to draw a soul-full breath! 
 
 Such room to live ! Such room to die ! 
 Such room to roam in after death! 
 
 White room, with sapphire room set round. 
 And still beyond His room profound; 
 
 Such room-bound boundlessness overhead 
 As never has been writ or said 
 Or seen, save by the favored few. 
 
 Where kings of thought play chess with stars 
 Across their board of blue. 
 
 — J oa( i u i n Miller. 
 
MUSEUMS, ART GALLERIES 
 
 cious drawing rooms lending themselves well to such occasions. 
 All was burned; only a small proportion of the pictures was 
 saved. The present building is temporary. The Art Institute and 
 School of Design, to which the name has been changed from the 
 Mark Hopkins Institute of Art, is affiliated with the University 
 of California. Many paintings have been added to those saved 
 from destruction, and the collection bids fair to equal the old one. 
 The place is open daily from 9 a. m. to 5 p. m., except Sundays. 
 Tuesdays and Fridays are free days; on other days an admission 
 of twenty-five cents is charged. 
 
 At the Museum of Anthropology is a splendid canvas by 
 Verestschagin representing English soldiers blowing Sepoys from 
 cannon, in punishment for the Sepoy rebellion. 
 
 In Piedmont Park, across the bay, is the largest art gallery 
 in the vicinity, containing over eight hundred paintings. The 
 large collection of Russian paintings exhibited at the St. Louis 
 Exposition has recently been added to this gallery. It is open 
 daily from 9 a. m. till 5 p. m. The park is reached by the Key 
 Route ferry, Piedmont train, connecting with boat, and Piedmont 
 street car for the park, connecting with the train. 
 
 Besides these permanent exhibitions there are in San Fran- 
 cisco several galleries, connected with art stores, where beautiful 
 pictures by local and foreign artists may always be seen. Often 
 there are special exhibitions of the work of one artist. These 
 galleries are so accessible to the down-town shopper that a hunger 
 for good pictures may always be appeased. 
 
 At Vickery, Atkins and Torrey's on Sutter street, between 
 Powell and Mason streets, is a beautiful gallery where good things 
 and rare things are always exhibited. At Gump's on Post street, 
 near Stockton, is another. At Rabjohn's, near Gump's, is one, 
 and there is one atHelgesen's 
 on Sutter street, near Grant 
 avenue. Further out Sutter 
 street, between Polk street 
 and Van Ness avenue, is 
 Schussler's. At any one of 
 these places a feast of good 
 things is always to be found. 
 
 [ 1 75] 
 
 A Room of the Art Gallery in Piedmont Park. 
 
The Affiliated Colleges — the Medical and Dental Departments, Hospital and Museum of the 
 University of California. 
 
 Chapter “Twenty-two • Schools and Colleges 
 
 I n 1 847, when the white population ofYerba Buena num- 
 bered but three hundred and seventy-five, a school house 
 was built near the southwest corner of the Plaza, and in 
 May, 1848, a school was opened there by Thomas Doug- 
 las, a graduate of Yale. The attendance was about forty. 
 Soon the news of the discovery of gold almost depopulated the 
 little town and the school was discontinued. On April 23, 1849, 
 the Reverend Albert Williams opened his institute in the same 
 building and carried it on for five months, until the pressure of 
 parochial duties interfered. In December, 1849, the work was 
 taken up by John C. Pelton and wife, of Boston. They brought 
 with them around the Horn a complete equipment of school 
 furniture and apparatus. Mr. Pelton’s school was continued with 
 varying success until the inauguration of the public schools. 
 
 There are now ninety public and twenty-two private schools 
 within the boundaries of San Francisco; over thirty primary and 
 grammar schools and four high schools are under construction. 
 When all are completed the class of school buildings will far sur- 
 pass that before the fire— and there was room for improvement. 
 The public school system embraces polytechnic and night schools 
 and a normal school. Add to these the two great universities 
 and six theological schools within easy reach, several Roman 
 Catholic colleges, the several medical colleges and colleges of 
 dentistry and pharmacy, the Hastings Law School, schools of 
 mechanical and industrial arts, the School of Design of the Art 
 Institute, business colleges and schools of music and it would 
 seem that higher education, as well as primary and secondary, 
 were within the reach of all the youth of San Francisco. 
 
 [ 1 76] 
 
SCHOOLS AND COLLEGES 
 
 Just across the bay, in Berkeley, is the University of Cali- 
 fornia; and forty miles down the peninsula is the Leland Stan- 
 ford Junior University. Near San Jose are the University of the 
 Pacific and the Roman Catholic University of Santa Clara, the 
 former in College Park and the latter in Santa Clara. In San 
 Francisco is St. Ignatius College and in Oakland, St. Mary's. 
 
 The Medical Department of Stanford University, which is 
 the Cooper Medical College, is in San Francisco, as are also the 
 Medical Department, Department of Dentistry, Department of 
 Pharmacy and the Law Department (Hastings Law School) of 
 the University of California. The Hahnemann Medical College 
 of the Pacific (Homoeopathic) is in San Francisco and also the 
 College of Physicians and Surgeons, the latter with departments 
 of dentistry and pharmacy. 
 
 In San Francisco is the Episcopalian Divinity School, while 
 in San Anselmo (an hour’s trip from San Francisco by bay and 
 ele&ric train) is the San Francisco Theological Seminary (Pres- 
 byterian); in Berkeley are the Pacific Theological Seminary (Con- 
 gregational), Baptist and Unitarian theological seminaries and 
 the Bible School of the Disciples of Christ. 
 
 There are a number of excellent preparatory schools for boys 
 in the vicinity of San Francisco— the St. Matthew’s Military 
 Academy at Burlingame, the Belmont School at Belmont, An- 
 derson Academy at Irvington and two military academies at San 
 Rafael. In Berkeley are several preparatory and finishing schools 
 for girls and for boys, and there is also a preparatory and finish- 
 ing school for girls in Piedmont. 
 
 Mills College, a fine institution for the higher education of 
 young women (non-se&arian but Christian in its influence), is a 
 noble monument to its founders, Dr. and Mrs. Cyrus T. Mills. 
 It is five miles east of Oak- 
 land, on a beautiful estate of 
 one hundred and fifty acres. 
 
 St. Mary’s College on 
 Broadway in Oakland is a 
 Roman Catholic institution 
 for young men, of long stand- 
 ing and wide influence. 
 
 P77] 
 
 The Mission High School. 
 
German and St. Joseph’s Hospitals. 
 
 Chapter Twenty-three • Hospitals 
 
 W hen the Reverend William Taylor came here in 
 1 849 he found many sick from exposure, poor food 
 and unaccustomed ways of living. To aid them 
 was a badly conducted, filthy city hospital, contain- 
 ing two or three hundred patients. It was the cus- 
 tom for the city to farm out the care of the sick to one doctor or 
 another at five dollars per day for each patient. The hospital 
 changed hands many times and its location nearly as often. Mr. 
 Taylor spent much time with the sick, ministering to their phys- 
 ical and spiritual needs. Mingled with the sad cases which he cites 
 is occasionally a glimpse of the relief he was able to afford, as when 
 he advised a number of scurvy patients, growing worse daily for 
 want of proper food, to eat the miner’s lettuce growing wild in 
 the vicinity (the only green thing obtainable) and had the satis- 
 faction of finding them much improved on his next visit. 
 
 The present public hospitals of San Francisco are remark- 
 able in number, buildings and equipment, especially those which 
 have been built since the fire, though a number were, most for- 
 tunately, out of reach of that disaster. 
 
 The Lane Hospital, founded by Dr. Levi Cooper Lane, 
 is on the corner of Clay and Webster streets. It is connected 
 with the Medical Department of Stanford University. 
 
 The University of California Hospital, connected with 
 the University Medical Department, is on Parnassus avenue, the 
 middle building of the Affiliated Colleges. 
 
 The Children’s Hospital and Training School for 
 Nurses embraces several buildings between California and Sac- 
 ramento streets. Maple and Cherry. A new building, embody- 
 
 [178] 
 
HOSPITALS 
 
 ing every new idea in hospital equipment, has been recently 
 opened at 3700 California street. 
 
 The Southern Pacific General Hospital is a fine, mod- 
 ern building on Fell and Baker streets, opposite the Panhandle. 
 
 The United States General Hospital and the United 
 States Marine Hospital are in the Presidio, the first-named 
 near the Union street car terminus; the other, on the Presidio’s 
 southern boundary, at Thirteenth avenue and Lake street. 
 
 The Hahnemann Hospital (homoeopathic) on California 
 and Maple streets is the hospital of Hahnemann MedicalCollege. 
 
 The German Hospital, Fourteenth and Noe streets, owned 
 by the German Benevolent Society, was established in 1853. 
 
 The French Hospital, at Point Lobos and Fifth avenues, 
 is conducted by the French Mutual Benevolent Society. 
 
 St. Mary’s Hospital (Roman Catholic), on Hayes and 
 Shrader streets, is carried on by the Sisters of Mercy. This 
 hospital was established in 1861. 
 
 St. Joseph’s Hospital (Roman Catholic) is on Park Hill 
 and Buena Vista avenue. 
 
 St. Luke’s LIospital (Episcopal) was established in 1871. 
 It is on Valencia street, near the junction of Mission and Twenty- 
 seventh. The corner stones of new buildings to be ere&ed in 
 memory of Calvin Paige and D. O. Mills have been recently laid. 
 
 City and County Hospital on Potrero avenue, between 
 Twenty -second and Twenty-fourth streets, is to cost $2,000,000. 
 Mayor Taylor laid the corner stone in November, 1909. 
 
 There are five emergency hospitals: One in the park, at 
 Waller and Stanyan streets; one in the Potrero, at 1152 Ken- 
 tucky street; one, the Mission branch, at Twenty-third street and 
 Potrero avenue; one, the Harbor branch, at 7 Clay street, and 
 the Central at Golden Gate 
 avenue and Gough street. 
 
 These are the principal 
 public hospitals of the city. 
 
 The private hospitals are in- 
 numerable-most of them in 
 excellent buildings and of 
 modern equipment. 
 
 f 1 79] 
 
The Summit of Lone Mountain and Cross. 
 
 Chapter Twenty-four • Monuments 
 
 he Donahue Fountain.— Near the foot of Market 
 street, at the junction of Market, Bush and Battery 
 streets, is a handsome bronze fountain. It is dedi- 
 cated by the donor, James Mervyn Donahue, to the 
 mechanics, in honor of his father, Peter Donahue, a 
 pioneer machinist and founder of the Union Iron Works. Sur- 
 mounting the fountain is a spirited bronze group, designed by 
 Douglas Tilden, a man of genius, though a deaf mute. The 
 fountain was ere&ed in 1899, and cost $25,000. 
 
 Lotta’s Fountain, Tetrazzini’s TABLET.-At the busiest 
 point of Market street, where Geary and Kearny streets meet, 
 the center of newspaper square, stands Lotta’s fountain. Not 
 beautiful to the eye, it is dear to the hearts of ail San Francis- 
 cans, both because it speaks of the love of the giver for the city 
 which saw the beginning of her career and because so much that 
 is characteristic of the city has occurred, and is occurring, in its 
 vicinity. “In the old Union Theater on Commercial street, above 
 Kearny, Little Lotta, as she was then known, was a great favor- 
 ite,” says S. D. Woods, in his Life on the Pacific Coast. “She was 
 a young girl with a wonderful fascination, and with just the mood 
 and temper to catch the fancy of the miners from the mines. She 
 was always attended at the theater by her mother and father. * * 
 Many a time have I seen her, after her song and dance, stand 
 in a rain of gold flung to her by enthusiastic miners.” 
 
 The fountain was ereCled in 1875. ^ was f rom a platform 
 near it that Tetrazzini sang on Christmas Eve, 1910. A tablet 
 commemorating this event and dedicated to Tetrazzini has been 
 affixed to the fountain, Lotta Crabtree having most graciously 
 
 [i8°] 
 
MONUMENTS 
 
 accorded permission. The tablet, designed by Haig Patigian, was 
 unveiled on March 24, 1912. It is near this fountain that the 
 flower vendors gather. How glad we were after our period of des- 
 olation to see them back again, their wares making gay the side- 
 walks and filling the air with fragrance! From one month to 
 another, throughout the whole year, there is no break in the suc- 
 cession of flowers-ten cents a bunch-choose from the variety if 
 you can. 
 
 The Native Sons’ MoNUMENT.-Further up Market street, 
 at its junction with Turk and Mason, stands a monument given 
 by James D. Phelan to commemorate the admission of California 
 into the Union. It was erected in 1897, unveiled on Admission 
 Day (September 9) and dedicated to the Native Sons of the 
 Golden West. It is a drinking fountain surmounted by a col- 
 umn of California granite. On the column stands a bronze fig- 
 ure of an angel holding aloft an open book on which is inscribed 
 the date of California’s admission. At the base of the shaft stands 
 a miner with a pick in his right hand, while in his left he holds 
 high an American flag, with California’s new star in the field. 
 This was designed by Douglas Tilden. 
 
 The Soldiers’ Monument.— Another monument designed 
 by Douglas Tilden stands at the foot of Van Ness avenue, at its 
 junction with Market street. It was ere&ed by the citizens of San 
 Francisco in honor of the California Volunteers in the Spanish- 
 American war. 
 
 Lone Mountain CR0ss.-In the western part of the city 
 there is an abrupt, conical hill, the Mount of the Holy Cross 
 (called Lone Mountain) upon which stands a large cross, visible 
 from almost every quarter. It has a striking effect, and is a fit- 
 ting symbol to dominate over the city of Saint Francis. 
 
 Other monuments, such 
 as those in the Golden Gate 
 Park, the Lick statuary in 
 City Hall Park, the Steven- 
 son memorial in Portsmouth 
 square and the Dewey mon- 
 ument in Union square, have 
 been described elsewhere. 
 
 [■ 8 ,] 
 
 The Donahue Fountain. 
 
Newspaper Square. Lotto’s Fountain and the Chronicle Corner. 
 
 Chapter Twenty-jive • The Press 
 
 W hen Walter Colton, the chaplain of the frigate Con- 
 gress, was made Alcalde of Monterey, he found 
 among the articles turned over to him an old print- 
 ing press and fonts of Spanish type. In conjunction 
 with Robert Semple he issued on August 15,1846, 
 the first newspaper of California. Rules and leads were made 
 from sheets of tin, and the only paper to be found was that used 
 for making cigarritos— brown sheets, about foolscap size. To ac- 
 commodate the mixed population of Monterey, the newspaper 
 was partly Spanish and partly English. As the Spanish font con- 
 tained no letter “w,” the English part presented a curious ap- 
 pearance, double “v” being substituted for the missing letter. The 
 pages bristled with vve, two, was, and similar examples. After 
 thirty-eight weekly numbers the Californian , as the paper was 
 christened, was moved to San Francisco and the first number 
 issued here May 22, 1847. 
 
 In the meantime Samuel Brannan, who had brought a print- 
 ing plant around the Horn, issued on January 9, 1847, the first 
 number of the California Star , the first newspaper published in 
 San Francisco. The press used by Brannan is now in the museum 
 in Golden Gate Park. Before the middle of 1848 both papers 
 had suspended publication-editors, printers and “devils” being 
 all off for the mines. The Californian was revived in July; later 
 in the same year the proprietors of the Star bought the Califor- 
 nian and the two were united under the name of the Star and 
 Californian . The following year the name Alta California was 
 substituted and under this title the paper was issued for more 
 than forty years, a large part of the time under the editorship of 
 
 [182] 
 
THE PRESS 
 
 Mr. Frank Soule. On January 22, 1850, it became a daily, with 
 an annual subscription price of twenty-five dollars. A rival daily, 
 the Journal of Commerce , was launched one day later by Wash- 
 ington Bartlett, the first Alcalde of Yerba Buena and, forty years 
 after, the sixteenth Governor of the State. Bartlett was interested 
 at different times in the Evening Journal , the Evening News and 
 the Prue Californian . In 1850 appeared the Pacific News and in 
 1851 the Daily Herald . By 1853 there were in San Francisco 
 twelve daily newspapers, one of them German; two tri-weeklies, 
 both French; six weeklies and two monthlies. The Chronicle 
 (unrelated to the present Chronicle ), the Evening Picayune , the Cal- 
 ifornia Courier , and the W atchman (a monthly religious paper, ed- 
 ited by Reverend Albert Williams) were among these periodicals. 
 
 The Golden Era , a weekly founded in 1852, was the cradle 
 of California literature. For the Era , Bret Harte was first com- 
 positor, then contributor of the stories and sketches which formed 
 the beginning of his literary career. M'liss and many of the Con- 
 densed Novels first saw the light in the pages of the Era. Charles 
 Warren Stoddard wrote for it when little more than a boy, at first 
 over the name of Pip Pepperpod. Mark Twain, who had drifted 
 in from Virginia City and was then a reporter on the Call , found 
 congenial companions in the Era office and was soon a contrib- 
 utor, along with Dan de Quille (William H. Wright) who had 
 been associated with him on the Virginia City Enterprise. Joaquin 
 Miller, then but a youth, sent in little poems which hardly fore- 
 shadowed his mature work. He was no less impressed by the 
 finely furnished Era office than by the company he found there. 
 “The Era rooms/’ he says, “were elegant, the most grandly car- 
 peted and most gorgeously furnished that I had ever seen. Even 
 now in my memory they seem to have been simply palatial, and I 
 have seen the world well since 
 then.” The company might 
 include, besides those men- 
 tioned above, Thomas Starr 
 , Adah Isaacs Menken, 
 
 Prentice Mulford, Artemus 
 Ward, Orpheus C. Kerr and 
 en Massett; for they 
 
 83] 
 
Miller’s House on the Heights Back of Oakland. 
 
 SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 were all contributors, along 
 with many others. Stephen 
 Massett, whose pen name was 
 Colonel Jeems Pipes, lived in 
 a tiny house which he called 
 Pipesville, on a creek then 
 flowing near the present cor- 
 ner of Seventh and Mission 
 streets, where the Postoflice 
 Building now stands. An old 
 painting, showing this house and the toll-gate on the Mission 
 road, is in the Pioneer room of the Golden Gate Park museum. 
 
 For thirty years the Era led an existence of varying for- 
 tunes, succumbing finally to too many women writers, accord- 
 ing to the verdid of J. Macdonough Ford, one of its founders 
 and editors. “They killed it,” he said, “with their namby-pamby, 
 school-girl trash.” Though perhaps the paper did become too 
 much feminized, interest surrounds the names of many of its 
 women contributors and some conferred lustre upon it. During 
 the declining years of the Era , Palmer Cox contributed little 
 pidures and poems similar to the Brownie pidures and poems 
 which afterwards made him famous. 
 
 The Pioneer was the earliest monthly magazine of San Fran- 
 cisco. The Reverend Ferdinand Ewer, afterwards redor of Grace 
 Episcopal Church, was editor during 1854, the single year of its 
 existence. Edward Pollock, Colonel Derby (John Phoenix), John 
 Hittell and Frank Soule were among its contributors. Its most 
 noteworthy produdion was a tale by Mr. Ewer, entitled Ehe 
 Eventful Nights of August 20th and 21st , an imaginary glimpse 
 into life beyond the grave. The story was received by many as 
 founded on fad and made a great stir in spiritualistic circles. In 
 vain did Mr. Ewer deny a foundation for his fantasy. The cir- 
 cumstances of the story were gravely discussed and mediums 
 certified that it had been written under spiritualistic control. 
 
 The name “Californian” has been revived several times 
 since the original was merged into the Alta California . In 1858, 
 James M. Hutchings, gave the name to the magazine which he 
 founded to make known to the outside world the glories of the 
 
 [ 1 S4] 
 
THE PRESS 
 
 Yosemite. The Weekly Californian , published and edited by 
 Charles Henry Webb (known also to the reading world as John 
 Paul), lived from 1864 to 1867. Contemporary Eastern papers 
 characterized it as “the best literary paper ever known on the 
 Pacific Coast, ’’and as“agood token for the literary taste of the 
 land of gold.” Webb himself said later,' “ I was-and am— rather 
 proud of that paper. * * To the Californian , under my manage- 
 ment, many who have since obtained wide-spread reputations 
 contributed, and it was called considerable of a paper-to be pub- 
 lished so far away from Boston. * * It has sometimes occurred 
 to me that possibly the Californian did something toward bringing 
 out the latent genius of the Pacific Coast, a genius which has since 
 blossomed to such an extraordinary degree that much has been 
 transplanted to the nutritious soil of Plymouth Rock.” Before 
 it was transplanted it blossomed in the Overland , and the Cali- 
 fornian was, in a sense, the nucleus of that magazine. In the 
 Californian Bret Harte continued his Condensed Novels; and many 
 poems, essays and sketches, editorials and book reviews by him 
 were scattered through its pages. To the Californian Mark Twain 
 contributed ’The Jumping Frog of Calaveras , the first of his writ- 
 ing that attracted wide-spread attention. 
 
 The Californian Magazine , a monthly, Western in character, 
 was published from 1880 to 1882. Frederick M. Somers, one of 
 the founders of the Argonaut , was its editor. It was often called 
 Somers' Calif ornian^ to distinguish it from the earlier weekly edited 
 by Webb and the later Californian Illustrated Magazine , pub- 
 lished and edited by Charles Frederick Holder. The list of con- 
 tributors to Somers' Californian is long and glorious, embracing, 
 as it does, Edward Rowland Sill, Ambrose Bierce, Joaquin Mil- 
 ler, John and Theodore Hittell, D. S. Richardson, John Muir, 
 Josiah Royce, Lucius Har- 
 wood Foote, William C. Mor- 
 row, Yda Addis, Katherine 
 Lee Bates, Ina Coolbrith, 
 
 Kate Douglas Wiggin and 
 Margaret Collier Graham. 
 
 The Overland Monthly , 
 conceived in the brain of 
 
 [i8 5 i 
 
SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 Bret Harte, made its appear- 
 ance in i868 3 with Anton 
 Roman as publisher and Bret 
 Harte in the editorial chair. 
 It was here that Bret Harte 
 found himself. Against the 
 protests of printer and proof- 
 reader, but loyally sustained 
 (though with forebodings) by 
 the publisher, he brought out 
 in the second number of the Overland his story of The Luck of 
 Roaring Camp . It was at once denounced by the religious press 
 of California and coldly received by the secular; but Harte’s 
 faith in his own genius and judgment and Roman’s faith in Harte 
 were justified when the return mail from the East brought reviews 
 which hailed “the little foundling of Californian literature” with 
 enthusiastic welcome, and also brought from the publishers of 
 the Atlantic Monthly a flattering request for a similar story upon 
 liberal terms. The Heathen Chinee added to Harte’s popularity 
 in the East and the ultimate eflebt was to draw him to the At- 
 lantic Coast. B. P. Avery and William C. Bartlett followed him 
 as editors of the Overland . This magazine developed the literary 
 talent which had been cradled in the Golden Era and nurtured in 
 the Californian. Added to the notable names of their contributors 
 was a long list which, if they did not surpass the greatest among 
 them, were worthy to keep them company. Louis Agassiz, Joseph 
 Le Conte, J. D. Whitney, President Gilman (then of theUniver- 
 sity of California, later of Johns Hopkins), Bishop Kip, the 
 Reverend S. H. Willey, Henry George, J. Ross Browne, Noah 
 Brooks, Clarence King, Frances FullerVibtor and Sarah B. Cooper 
 were a few of the distinguished number. The part of Macaenas 
 to these contributors was played by John Carmany who became 
 publisher after the first year. He sank over thirty thousand dol- 
 lars in the Overland , yet, notwithstanding his losses, in later 
 years he looked back upon that time as the brightest of his life. 
 The name of the Overland was revived in 1882 and has been 
 honorably borne by the magazine which still survives. The list 
 of contributors to this second series is also a long, brilliant one. 
 
 [. 86 ] 
 
 Chinamen Reading Bulletins. The Moon Festival. 
 
THE PRESS 
 
 During the Civil War the American Flag gave powerful sup- 
 port to the Union cause. It was edited by Calvin B. McDonald, 
 a Scotchman who wielded a gifted and a powerful pen. His life 
 closed in darkness and poverty a few years ago in a public insti- 
 tution in Alameda county. 
 
 The oldest of our present weeklies is the San Francisco News 
 Letter , founded in 1856 by Frederick Marriott, also founder of 
 the Illustrated London News . He was succeeded by his son, 
 Frederick Marriott Jr. The News Letter was at first literally 
 what its name implies— a single sheet of letter paper, on one side 
 of which were printed three columns of news. It was to be folded 
 for mailing and addressed on the blank side. It has grown to a 
 forty-page weekly, with so large a circulation that it is highly 
 valued as an advertising medium. Its special numbers have con- 
 tained many fine stories and poems, and handsome illustrations. 
 Ambrose Bierce, Peter Robertson and John Gilmour were note- 
 worthy contributors. Wallace Irwin was its editor during 1901, 
 going from the News Letter to the Overland Monthly . 
 
 The Wasp , now issued by the Wasp Publishing Company, 
 was founded in 1876 by Korbel Brothers. It was the first cartoon 
 paper in colors in the United States. Able writers and quick- 
 witted cartoonists have filled its pages. It has published some 
 notable special numbers, among them the sixty-page twentieth- 
 anniversary number, filled with sketches and pictures of early 
 days in San Francisco. The paper is now one of the leading 
 weeklies, devoted to politics and society, finance and art. The 
 theatrical and society notes are eagerly read and each number 
 contains a couple of interesting columns on books and authors. 
 
 The Argonaut is a weekly journal of wide circulation, giving 
 brilliant and forceful commentary on political, literary and social 
 matters, both local and gen- 
 eral.Itwas founded in 1 877 by 
 Fred M. Somers and Frank 
 Pixley. In 1 879 Mr. Somers 
 gave up his position to found 
 the Californian Magaxine and 
 the Epigram. Later he went 
 to New York and founded 
 
 ,87] 
 
SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 Current Literature and Short Stories . Mr. Somers’ place on the 
 Argonaut was taken by Jerome A. Hart, who became chief editor 
 on the death of Pixley. After the fire in 1906 Mr. Hart sold the 
 paper to Alfred Holman, the present editor. Frank Pixley was a 
 writer of great vigor. His caustic anti-catholic editorials attracted 
 wide-spread attention. He made th z Argonaut a power in politics 
 as well as in the literary world. Mr. Hart was an able writer who 
 carried forward the high literary standards of the paper, and its 
 chief characteristics are preserved by the present editor. Mrs. 
 Austin, a sister of Jerome Hart, who adopted Betsy B. as her 
 pseudonym, carried on until her death a delightful dramatic 
 department. This was continued by Josephine Hart. Through- 
 out its career the Argonaut has been characterized by able liter- 
 ary and dramatic criticism, by good poetry (both original and 
 selected) and by a wonderful series of short stories, original or 
 translated. The roll of writers for the Argonaut is a shining one, 
 embracing nearly all the brightest names included between 1877 
 and the present time. To the names already mentioned in con- 
 nection with other journals should be added that of the ill-fated 
 poet, Richard Realf,and those of Gertrude Atherton, Gwendolyn 
 Overton, Geraldine Bonner, W. C. Morrow and Frank Bailey 
 Millard, all of whose short stories were distinctly Argonautic. 
 
 The San Franciscan led a short, but distinguished, existence 
 from 1884 to 1886. It was a literary journal of independent 
 tone. Its first editor was Joseph Goodman, formerly editor of 
 the territorial Enterprise of Virginia City, Nevada, whose pages 
 were illumined by the early writings of Mark Twain and Dan 
 de Quille. Both contributed to the San Franciscan , along with 
 Mr. and Mrs. Thomas Fitch, Arthur McEwen, Sam Davis, 
 Joaquin Miller, Flora Haines Loughead, Mr. and Mrs. Adley 
 
 H. Cummins and many other 
 well-known writers. Arthur 
 McEwen and W. P. Harrison 
 followed Mr. Goodman as 
 editors. 
 
 The Wave," A Journal 
 for those in the Swim” first 
 washed the shores of Mon- 
 
 [188] 
 
 Looking Down Montgomery Street. 
 
■TO *RE/iE/1BEP. 
 ROBERT UM! 5 
 
 'SfEVEWSOro 
 
 TO BE flCjNEST _r O fcC 
 
 -- 
 
 TLE LESS - TO t • !• r 
 yPO* f THE "I fOS E A 
 faphl* M / 0 Pr_r ~ r P 
 HI 5 PPE SO ' F - " - 
 
 NGVCE V t‘ ■ T / T 
 'SHALLLT- ’.C" '' 
 
 ■ : : ■ : : ’ 
 
 . 
 
 ■ 
 
 wfitoapiivi/ ” 
 IGtl-ufMjt f IL ' 
 
 HEP E fS A tevK FOP 
 AiLTHA TM/dmi ii/- S 
 OF FO&mAppAfiD 
 
 Fountain Erected in 
 Portsmouth Square to the Mem- 
 ory of Robert Louis 
 Stevenson. 
 
 Photograph by 
 Charles Weidner. 
 
At the Stevenson Fountain. 
 
 Perchance, from out the thousands passing by— 
 The city’s hopeless lotos-eaters these , 
 
 Blown by the four winds of the seven seas 
 From common want to common company— 
 Perchance someone may lift his heavy eye 
 And smile with freshening memory when he sees 
 Those golden pennons bellying in the breeze 
 And spread for ports where fair adventures lie. 
 And O, that such a one might stay a space 
 And taste of sympathy , till to his ears 
 Might come the tale of him who knew the grace 
 To suffer sweetly through the bitter years , 
 
 And catch the smiles concealed in Fortune’ s face. 
 And draw contentment from a cup of tears. 
 
 — Wallace A. Irwin. 
 
THE PRESS 
 
 terey bay in 1884, then, following up the coast, became the San 
 Francisco Wave. The editors, Hugh Hume and J. O’Hara 
 Cosgrove, both young men, encouraged California writers, and 
 the Wave contained many original stories of local color from the 
 pens of W. C. Morrow, Arthur McEwen, Ambrose Bierce, G. A. 
 Danziger, Henry Bigelow and others. In the Wave Frank Nor- 
 ris served his apprenticeship, and Will Irwin tells us that the 
 back files furnish u a surpassing study of the novelist in the mak- 
 ing.” Gelett Burgess calls Norris’ work in the Wave“the studio 
 sketches of a great novelist.” From about 1895 his hand could' 
 be traced, first in distinctive sketches, followed by his Little Sto- 
 ries of the Pavements , then longer stories and, finally, Moran of the 
 Lady Letty , which was published serially. Like others of our 
 brightest lights, Norris was eventually drawn East by the interest 
 which his work aroused there. His untimely death was a sad 
 blow to the world of letters. The Wave was a society chronicle 
 as well as a literary paper, with departments devoted to music, 
 the drama, pidures, books and sport. It died (Will Irwin says) 
 of too much merit. 
 
 Town Talkfthe Pacific Weekly ,”is a society journal about 
 twenty years old. The sketches, called Varied Types, are one of 
 its interesting features. The bright paragraphs of the Spectator 
 range over a wide field, including politics, the theater, amusing 
 anecdotes and personal gossip, mostly touching local affairs. Other 
 departments are Social Prattle, Theater Gossip, Auto Notes, 
 Financial Outlook and Book Notes. 
 
 In 1895 the joyous Lark soared into view, trilling an entirely 
 new note in the journalistic world. Gelett Burgess, Bruce Porter 
 and a few other congenial souls were responsible for its existence. 
 William Doxey was the publisher. Rhyme and picture portrayed 
 in its pages new orders of 
 being— the Purple Cow and 
 theChewing-GumMan. The 
 life of the Lark was a short 
 and merry one, but it was not 
 all fun. An undercurrent of 
 earnest ideals was glimpsed 
 now and then. 
 
 [ i 8 9 ] 
 
 The Spreckels or Call Building. Hearst Building Beyond. 
 
SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 A minor magazine which 
 was wholly ideal was Paul 
 Elder’s Impressions Quarterly. 
 Beautifully printed (with an 
 illuminated sele&ion, or a 
 choice picture for its frontis- 
 piece), it contained a few orig- 
 inal articles of an intimate 
 type and a poem or two, just 
 enough to whet the appetite. 
 
 The W estern W eekly , late the Tattler > takes the latter name 
 as sub-title. It is published by the Wheeler-Reid Publishing 
 Company. It contains sketches, a story, comment on current 
 events, theatrical and financial departments and book reviews, 
 with many illustrations. Although a comparatively recent jour- 
 nal, it has made a place for itself. 
 
 Sunset is an excellent monthly magazine published by the 
 Southern Pacific Company and devoted to the interests of the 
 Pacific Coast. Having recently joined forces with the Pacific 
 Monthly , the latter name is used as sub-title. The present edi- 
 tor is Charles K. Field, associate of the former editor, Charles S. 
 Aiken. Mr. Field’s delightful little poems have illumined many 
 phases of San Francisco life. 
 
 The Bulletin , the oldest of our present dailies, was founded 
 in 1855 by James King of William and C. O. Geberding. Mr. 
 King in his editorials fearlessly attacked the corruption and 
 criminal pra&ices which were prevalent in the city. Having de- 
 nounced James Casey (an ex-convid) for ballot-box stuffing, he 
 was shot down in the street by Casey. This assassination caused 
 the formation of the second Vigilance Committee. James King’s 
 brother, Mr. Thomas King, succeeded him in the editorship. Mr. 
 Theodore Hittell was for several years in charge of the local de- 
 partment. He was also law reporter for the Chronicle of the Fifties, 
 the Daily Herald and several other papers. The Bulletin passed 
 through different hands as owners and editors, Messrs. G.K. Fitch 
 and Loring Pickering retaining their proprietorship the longest. 
 Owned by R. A. Crothers, it is now, under the editorship of Mr. 
 Fremont Older, the leading evening paper of San Francisco. 
 
 [190] 
 
THE PRESS 
 
 The Post made its first appearance in December, 1871, under 
 the editorship of Henry George, of single-tax fame. Mark Twain 
 was one of its early reporters. Having been consolidated with 
 the later Globe , it is now published afternoons under the hyphen- 
 ated title. 
 
 The Daily News is a evening penny paper of later birth, 
 with a large and growing circulation. 
 
 The Call is the oldest of our morning dailies. The first 
 number appeared December 1, 1856, under the management of 
 the Associated Practical Printers. It was then a four-page sheet, 
 about twelve by twelve. It was later owned and conducted by 
 the then proprietors of the Bulletin , Messrs. Simonton, Fitch and 
 Pickering. For three years it was condu&ed by Charles and Sam- 
 uel Shortridge, with the former as editor. In 1897 Mr. John D. 
 Spreckels was announced as owner. Mark Twain was a reporter 
 for the Call . Adeline Knapp and Charlotte Perkins Stetson were 
 among contributors not previously mentioned. 
 
 The Examiner , founded as a Democratic evening paper, was 
 first issued January, 1865; William S. Moss, publisher, and B. F. 
 Washington, editor. Messrs. Phil Roach and George Pen John- 
 ston were later associated in the proprietorship. From them 
 Senator Hearst bought the paper in 1880. He converted it into 
 a morning paper, and in 1887 gave it to his son, Hon. William 
 Randolph Hearst. Within a week it was issued as an eight-page 
 paper, the first daily of that size in California. Ambrose Bierce’s 
 column of “Prattle,” his short stories and verse have been a dis- 
 tinctive, literary feature of the Examiner . W. C. Morrow, Ger- 
 trude Atherton and Arthur McEwen have likewise been valued 
 contributors. A dramatic department, conducted for some years 
 by Adele Chretien, and the studies of human nature by Winifred 
 Black (whose pen name is 
 Annie Laurie) attracted many 
 readers to th ^Examiner. Allan 
 Kelly and Henry Bigelow 
 were noteworthy early re- 
 porters of the Examiner who 
 interviewed stage robbers or 
 captured grizzly bears or, to 
 
 [ 1 9 1 ] 
 
masBs a iag 
 
 SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 test the life-saving apparatus, 
 jumped from the ferry boat- 
 all in a day's work, all for 
 the glory of the Examiner , 
 which introduced a new type 
 of journalism and was the 
 first of the Hearst newspa- 
 pers. 
 
 The San Francisco Chron- 
 The Chronicle Building. icle is the outcome of a small 
 
 four-page sheet which the brothers, Charles and M. H. deYoung 
 published as an advertisement and program of the California 
 theater when it was at its height. Spicy items and excerpts from 
 good writers lent interest to the little paper and the Dramatic 
 Chronicle had many readers. With the musical, theatrical and 
 local notes it gradually became a chronicle of daily San Fran- 
 ciscan life. August 18, 1868, the word “Dramatic” was dropped 
 from the headline and a daily morning paper of general interest 
 took the place of the former little sheet. Soon, under the capable 
 management of the two brothers, it made its way to the front. 
 Charles deYoung’s tragic death left his brother sole proprietor. 
 M. H. deYoung is a man widely known, both as an able news- 
 paperman, familiar with every detail of the business, and as a man 
 of great executive ability. He was Vice-President and California 
 Commissioner of the Chicago World’*s Fair in 1893, President 
 of the California Midwinter Fair in the following year, and is 
 now chairman of the Committee on Concessions and Admission 
 of the Panama-Pacific Exposition of 1915. John P. Young has 
 for many years been the managing editor of the Chronicle . Peter 
 Robertson was for years the conscientious dramatic editor, with 
 a large following of readers who depended upon his judgment. 
 For more than a score of years George Hamlin Fitch has been 
 the literary editor. His columns of book reviews and essays on 
 literary subjedts in the Sunday Chronicle have had many eager 
 readers who became his unknown friends as the years went by. 
 They lamented with him the useless loss of his precious library, 
 and bowed down with him in sympathetic grief over the swift- 
 following death of his only son. He never wrought with surer 
 
THE PRESS 
 
 touch than in the essays that followed this great sorrow. Too 
 valuable to be accorded only the short life of a newspaper column, 
 they have been gathered into two small volumes -Comfort Found 
 in Good Old Books and Modern English Books of Power. Will Irwin 
 was Sunday editor of the Chronicle during 1903 and 1904. 
 
 The fine buildings which are the homes of these morning 
 dailies occupy three corners of newspaper square. The Chronicle 
 Building, an early class A, steel-frame structure, was being en- 
 larged at the time of the fire. When the fire had passed, to the 
 completion of the new part was added the task of clearing away 
 the tons upon tons of debris and the reconstruction of the old 
 interior. We miss the old clock tower with its faithful timepiece', 
 so often consulted by the commuter or busy shopper; but a new 
 clock, hanging from the Market-Street front of the building, 
 does its best to give good service. 
 
 The Call (Claus Spreckels) Building, on account of its tower- 
 like aspeCt, was by some regarded with foreboding when it was 
 first built; but, though everything inflammable was consumed in 
 the great fire, the steel-frame construction proved that it could 
 be trusted. The building was not essentially harmed and was 
 soon restored to its former beauty and usefulness. Before the 
 fire there was a very popular restaurant on the seventeenth floor 
 which afforded a splendid panoramic view of the city. 
 
 The handsome Examiner (Hearst) Building is wholly new 
 since the fire, and worthily fills a third corner of the square. 
 
 On the morning of April 18, 1906, the daily papers found 
 themselves unable to get out their issues on time but all expeCted, 
 by some means or other, to serve their subscribers later in the 
 day. As the devastating flames rolled up Market street, devouring 
 everything in their path, it was soon found that there was no 
 hope of saving the plants of 
 the morning dailies; so the 
 workers betook themselves 
 to the Bulletin office on Bush 
 street, opposite the California 
 Hotel, intending to issue a 
 joint paper from there. Be- 
 fore it could be done they 
 
 [ 1 9 3 ] 
 
 Newspaper Square. Unveiling of Tetrazzini Tablet. 
 
SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 were again driven out— this time to Oakland. From the office of 
 the Oakland *T ribune was issued on the nineteenth the famous 
 Call-Chronicle-Examiner with its terrible headlines, “Earthquake 
 and Fire. San Francisco in Ruins!” After the nineteenth each 
 staff published its own paper. The persistence and enterprise of 
 the San Francisco dailies at this trying time spoke volumes for 
 the fine organization and the loyalty of the newspaper men. 
 
 Many periodicals have been omitted, both of the early days 
 and of the present. A complete list would require a full volume. 
 For, from the earliest days, San Francisco has been a place of 
 adventuring— for the literary person as well as for the argonaut 
 in search of gold. It was the new, unknown land of fabulous 
 prospe&s-in art, literature, wealth. Poets, authors, adlors, paint- 
 ers, sculptors, musicians, gold-seekers were drawn here as by a 
 magnet. And they were not Americans only. They came from 
 all parts of the world. Therefore, as with the churches of San 
 Francisco, the periodicals have had to serve a cosmopolitan pop- 
 ulation and, from the days of the half-Spanish, half-English 
 Californian of Colton and Semple until now, almost every for- 
 eigner could find a journal in his own tongue. At present nearly 
 every language is embraced in the hundred and fifty daily, weekly 
 and monthly publications issued here. 
 
 Perhaps too much space has been given to enumerating the 
 more notable men and women who, from first to last, have con- 
 tributed to the periodicals of San Francisco. The list is such 
 a brilliant one, of those who have cast their lives among us or 
 spent a longer or shorter time in our midst; it embraces so 
 many names of wide significance of those who have fulfilled the 
 promise of their journalistic days that perhaps the San Fran- 
 ciscan may be pardoned some natural pride in contemplating 
 
 this Western nursery of lit- 
 erature. And the children 
 that have gone out from it 
 have held it in loyal remem- 
 brance; for no modern city 
 has been so sung by its poets 
 or received such homage 
 from its prose writers. 
 
 [194] 
 
 " •" -■? 
 
 The CaU-Chronicle-Examiner 
 
 SAN FRANCISCO. THURSDAY. A MRU. H>, I0UG. 
 
 EARTHQUAKE AND FIRE: 
 SAN FRANCISCO IN RUINS j 
 
 The Call-Chronicle-Examiner, April 19, 1906. 
 
The Museum Building in Golden Gate Park. 
 
 Chapter ‘Twenty- Six • How to See the City 
 
 I t is unfortunate that people should come to San Francisco 
 without realizing how much there is to see, but it is more 
 unfortunate if they go away without a knowledge of the 
 city's beautiful, interesting and characteristic features. The 
 beauty is owing to her incomparable situation between the 
 ocean and the island-studded bay, with ranges of hills bordering 
 the horizon save where the setting sun sinks into the ocean in 
 unmatched glory. The interest is largely due to her history, 
 which compresses into a comparatively short period enough ex- 
 perience and romance to spread over centuries of slower com- 
 munities. The varied governments under which she has lived, the 
 marked changes of her different periods, the strangely cosmopol- 
 itan character of her population, all have contributed to form the 
 present city, to which Gertrude Atherton's happy characteriza- 
 tion of the old San Francisco may be still applied: CC A city that 
 has grown from an Indian pueblo, through the days of Spanish 
 dons and c Forty-niners,' to a great, cosmopolitan city, with a bit 
 of Hong-kong in its middle and of Italy on its skirts.'' Some 
 flavor of all these may still be tasted. 
 
 The manner of seeing the city, and how much shall be seen 
 in one day, depends upon individual circumstances and prefer- 
 ences-the time and strength of the sight-seer and the length of 
 the purse. For all except the down-town district and the street- 
 car ride along the Golden Gate, an automobile is the ideal means 
 of seeing to best advantage the fine residences of Pacific Heights, 
 the Presidio, Baker's Beach, Golden Gate Park, the Ocean Boule- 
 vard, the Cliff House and Sutro Baths. The drives through 
 the Presidio, Park and on the Ocean Boulevard are beautiful. 
 
 h95] 
 
SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 Standing along Market 
 street, at almost any hour of 
 the day, sight-seeing automo- 
 biles may be found, about to 
 start on a trip. The price is 
 one dollar. By this means 
 the city may be seen quickly 
 and many of its interesting 
 features noted. The trip goes 
 through Golden Gate Park 
 to the Cliff House, where a short stop is made, and back through 
 the park by another routed Another trip, costing two dollars, 
 gives the above, including in addition the Presidio and Nob Hill. 
 
 A sight-seeing street car which leaves the foot of Market 
 street twice daily, at io a. m. and 2 p. m., will also, for seventy- 
 five cents, give an interesting trip, three and one-half hours long, 
 including the Sutro Baths and Cliff House. This trip skirts the 
 rim of the Golden Gate, the beautiful scenic route to the beach. 
 
 The visitor should not fail to supplement such trips by a 
 glance into some of San Francisco’s characteristic shops and into 
 a few of the larger stores. The Postoffice and Mint should be 
 visited, Chinatown and Portsmouth Square. Add to these a look 
 into one or two banks, the Savings Union at Grant Avenue and 
 Market street, or the Bank of California, on the corner of Cali- 
 fornia and Sansome streets, into the three large hotels, a visit to 
 Nob Hill and to Pacific Heights, where are most of the finest 
 modern residences, and the visitor will not go away ignorant of 
 what San Francisco contains. 
 
 If visitors eschew the sight-seeing cars and automobiles, 
 and wish to do their sight seeing independently, below is a pro- 
 gram showing how much can be seen in two days, with econ- 
 omy of time. It is assumed that the start is made from down 
 town and that the day begins about nine o’clock. 
 
 Look into the Palm Court of the Palace Hotel. Go from 
 there to Andrews’ Diamond Palace on Kearny street, just beyond 
 the Chronicle Building. Then visit the Emporium, the Mint on 
 Fifth street, between Market and Mission, and the Postoffice, 
 two blocks above. From the Postoffice return to Market street, 
 
 [i 9 6] 
 
 Residence of John D. Spreckels, on Pacific Heights. 
 
HOW TO SEE THE CITY 
 
 take any passing car going towards the ferries and transfer to 
 Kearny street north; take another transfer and leave the Kearny- 
 Street car at Clay street. Visit Portsmouth Square and note the 
 Stevenson Memorial and the new Hall of Justice opposite. Take 
 a Clay-Street car and ride three blocks east to Battery street, to 
 see the new United States Custom House. Walk three blocks 
 south and one west, to California and Sansome street, and visit 
 the Bank of California. Then take a California-Street car up the 
 hill, unless you wish to see the California Market, in which case 
 walk up the first two blocks. Leave the car at the Powell-Street 
 entrance of the Fairmont Hotel. A long corridor leads to an 
 elevator at the end. On the second landing is the Norman ban- 
 quet room which opens on the terrace, whence, if weather is clear, 
 a fine view is to be had. A staircase near the door into the 
 Norman banquet room leads to the beautiful Japanese shop of 
 George T. Marsh on the floor above. From the corridor near, 
 another flight leads to the Laurel tea room, which opens into the 
 hotel lobby. Leaving the hotel by the main entrance you are on 
 the summit of Nob hill, once covered by the homes of San Fran- 
 cisco’s railroad and silver-mine magnates. Opposite the Fair- 
 mont to the west is a brownstone mansion, formerly the Flood 
 home, now the property of the Pacific-Union Club. On the next 
 block west (the site of the two Crocker homes), the Episcopal 
 Cathedral is building. Across California street from the hotel 
 are the sites of the old Stanford and Mark Hopkins homes; on 
 the former a great apartment house is building, and on the latter 
 is the temporary building of the San Francisco Institute of Art 
 and School of Design. By the Powell-Street car return may be 
 made to the business center where are many delightful places 
 for luncheon, San Francisco being noted for its restaurants. 
 
 After luncheon take a 
 Valencia-Street car on Mar- 
 ket street for the old Mission 
 church. Leave the car where 
 it crosses Sixteenth street 
 and walk two blocks west to 
 Dolores street, on which the 
 church stands. From there 
 
 [ 1 97] 
 
 Enjoying the Beach. 
 
SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 a Sixteenth and Fillmore-Street car will take you to Fillmore 
 street, where you can transfer to the “Cliff House” Sutter-Street 
 car for the Sutro Gardens, Sutro Baths, the Cliff House and beach. 
 These attractions will require the balance of the afternoon. 
 
 The second morning look in the City of Paris on the cor- 
 ner of Geary and Stockton streets, go through Union Square to 
 the St. Francis, from there to Marsh’s at Powell and Post streets, 
 then to Sutter street and to Vickery’s on Sutter, between Mason 
 and Powell, down Sutter to Stockton street, on which (between 
 Sutter and Post) is an attractive Japanese store, the Meiji. From 
 there go to Gump’s on Post street, near Stockton, then down 
 Post to Shreve’s, on the corner of Grant avenue. Just beyond 
 Shreve’s on Grant avenue is Elder’s and across Grant avenue, 
 on the corner of Sutter, is the White House. From here a walk 
 of three blocks north on Grant avenue leads into Chinatown. 
 The remainder of the morning will probably be spent here, and 
 the afternoon may be spent in Golden Gate Park. If Chinatown 
 is visited in the evening, the morning time allotted to that may 
 be taken for a visit to the Presidio. Directions for reaching the 
 Park and Presidio and for seeing them to the best advantage will 
 be found in the chapters on the Parks and Government Reserva- 
 tions. These places have all been visited in two days, but, of 
 course, time was not taken in the stores for much shopping. 
 
 Besides the city itself, there are trips in the vicinity natu- 
 rally included by the visitor in his sight seeing, if time allows, 
 down the peninsula to visit Stanford University at Palo Alto, 
 to San Jose and the Lick Observatory, perhaps to the Big Trees 
 and the beach of Santa Cruz, to Half-Moon bay, to Mount 
 Tamalpais and the Muir Woods, around the bay, to Vallejo and 
 Mare Island, and to the cities of Oakland, Berkeley and Alameda 
 
 across the bay. Any of these 
 trips can be taken between 
 breakfast and dinner and 
 some of them will consume 
 only a few hours. Details 
 of these interesting trips will 
 be found in the following 
 chapter, 1 “The Environs.” 
 
 [i 9 8] 
 
 Presidio Terrace. A San Francisco Residence Park. 
 
California Hall and Boalt School of Law, University of California. 
 
 Chapter Twenty-seven • The Environs 
 
 C urving along the eastern shores of the bay are the three 
 cities of Berkeley, Oakland and Alameda, the two for- 
 mer sloping back into the hills, while Alameda is level. 
 Probably they will all, together with the cities down 
 the peninsula, be a portion of Greater San Francisco. 
 The land upon which these three cities are built was at one time 
 a part of the domain of Don Luis Peralta (a Spanish soldier of 
 the Presidio), which he received in 1820 from the Spanish Gov- 
 ernment. There is no knowledge of any settler previous to that 
 date. Don Luis had four sons. To Jose Domingo, the eldest, 
 he gave the most northern part, on which the city of Berkeley 
 is now situated; to Vicente, the second, he allotted the portion 
 now covered by Oakland and the former village of Temescal; 
 to the third, Antonio Maria, he gave the part now occupied by 
 Alameda, Brooklyn, Fruitvale and Melrose. Up to 1850, they 
 dwelt undisturbed on their large estates. After the early explor- 
 ations, before the Mission of San Francisco was founded, little 
 pains seems to have been taken to become acquainted with the 
 eastern side of the bay. William Heath Davis says that in his 
 early travels around the bay he had observed a pi&uresque spot 
 for a town. The site was known as the Encinal de Temescal, on 
 the portion of the great San Antonio ranch belonging to Vicente 
 Peralta. Knowing Peralta well, Mr. Davis, in 1846, tried to bar- 
 gain with him for the sale of this peninsula, interesting a number 
 of the leading citizens of San Francisco in his project of a new 
 town across the bay, which was to be the Brooklyn of the future 
 metropolis opposite. The first offer was five thousand dollars for 
 two-thirds of the Encinal, to build a Catholic church, construct 
 
 [ 1 99] 
 
SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 a wharf and run a ferry boat 
 from San Francisco to the 
 intended town. But Peralta 
 hesitated about parting with 
 his land, and the negotiations 
 were extended to the early 
 part of 1850, Mr. Davis then 
 abandoning the proje<5t. 
 
 Ini 850, Colonel Henry S. 
 Fitch and four others started 
 from San Francisco for Marin county in a small row boat. Ad- 
 verse winds or unskilful management brought them to San An- 
 tonio creek, near what is now the foot of Broadway, Oakland. 
 They were amazed to find a beautiful plateau covered with oak 
 trees, as from the San Francisco side it had looked as if the hills 
 came down to the shore. Colonel Fitch recognized the possibil- 
 ities of the spot, and secured a verbal agreement from Vicente 
 Peralta to sell him 2,400 acres on San Antonio creek (now Lake 
 Merritt) for $8,000. But Peralta again hesitated. In the mean- 
 time squatters were making trouble, by settling on his land and 
 slaughtering his cattle, and finally, in the fall of 1850, Peralta 
 sold the site, which Mr. Davis and Mr. Fitch had tried to buy, 
 to Colonel “Jack” Hays, Major John C. Caperton, Alexander 
 Cost, Colonel Irving, John Freanor and others for $11,000. 
 
 In 1852 a town was incorporated and given the name of 
 Oakland, from the grove of oaks in which the first settlement was 
 made. In 1 854 it was chartered as a city. Up to 1 869 there were 
 no buildings worthy of note. In that year it was sele&ed as the 
 eastern terminus of the Central Pacific Railroad, which rapidly 
 increased its importance. In 1874 it became the county seat. 
 
 The Encinal de San Antonio, or peninsula on which Ala- 
 meda stands, was a wilderness covered with evergreen oak trees 
 in 1850. For $14,000 the land was purchased of its owner, An- 
 tonio Maria Peralta, by W. W. Chipman and Gideon Aughen- 
 baugh. Colonel Henry S. Fitch and William Sharon purchased 
 an interest from them. The town of Alameda was incorporated 
 in 1854 and in 1885 ^ was chartered as a city. The first settle- 
 ment was near High street. 
 
THE ENVIRONS 
 
 The hills and shores of Berkeley were visited by Fathers 
 Crespi and Fages in 1772, when exploring the east side of the 
 bay in their efforts to reach Point Reyes by land. It was the 
 latest in settlement of the three cities along the bay shore. The 
 site was acquired also of the Peralta family, being a part of the 
 portion of the oldest son, Jose Domingo. It was named for 
 Bishop Berkeley, on account of his famous line, “Westward the 
 course of empire takes its way.” The town was incorporated in 
 1878. It doubled in population during the first year after the 
 great San Francisco fire. The real estate titles of these three 
 bay cities date from the Peralta grant. 
 
 Oakland is now a flourishing city with a population of over 
 150,000, quite independent of the greater city across the bay, 
 though it furnishes, along with Berkeley and Alameda, thousands 
 of commuters who transact their daily business in San Francisco. 
 It is a city of churches, schools and homes, as are also the sister 
 cities between which it stands. There are in Oakland three high 
 schools, forty-three elementary and grammar schools and sev- 
 eral private ones; two excellent hotels and a third very large 
 one just completed; a municipal museum, a Carnegie library and 
 many handsome business buildings. President Taft laid the cor- 
 ner stone of a new city hall which is to cost $ 1,500,000. Lake 
 Merritt (a pretty salt water lake, covering one hundred and sixty 
 acres, with park-like borders) is near the center of the city. 
 Idora Park, a large amusement park, provides recreation and 
 good music. Mosswood, another pretty park, helps to keep the 
 people out of doors. Rides by automobile or street car to Trestle 
 Glen, Dimond Canyon, Leona Heights, Fourth Avenue Heights 
 or through the apricot and cherry orchards to Haywards are all 
 delightful. The homes of Oakland, on winding streets which 
 follow the contour of the 
 hills, are its chief charm. 
 
 Lawns are green and flowers 
 run riot throughout the year. 
 
 The water-front of Oakland 
 is its most valuable asset, and 
 great enterprises are already 
 begun there whose cost will 
 
 [201] 
 
 An Oakland Home. 
 
SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 run up into the millions, 
 giving brilliant promise of 
 Oakland’s importance as a 
 shipping port. 
 
 Five miles east of Oakland, 
 in beautiful grounds, stand 
 the eight fine buildings of 
 Mills College, the first col- 
 lege for women on the Pacific 
 coast. The estate embraces 
 one hundred and fifty acres, well watered and planted with beau- 
 tiful trees, shrubbery and flowers. The school was opened in 
 1871 by Dr. and Mrs. Cyrus T. Mills, who, in 1877, deeded the 
 property of the school to a self-perpetuating board of trustees, 
 to be conducted as a non-se&arian but Christian institution for 
 the higher education of young women. The generous donors 
 remained in charge and conduced the school together until the 
 death of Dr. Mills in 1884, from which time until advancing 
 years compelled her resignation Mrs. Mills carried on the work 
 alone. In 1885 the institution received its college charter from 
 the State and has since been known as Mills College. Mrs. Mills, 
 who was a pupil and later an associate of Mary Lyon at Mount 
 Holyoke, was succeeded as president by a woman of marked abil- 
 ity, Dr. Luella C. Carson, formerly Dean of Women at the Uni- 
 versity of Oregon, Street cars run hourly from Twelfth street 
 and Broadway, Oakland, to the college. 
 
 Piedmont.— On the hills east of Oakland lies Piedmont, a 
 suburb of Oakland, yet really an independent town. It is unsur- 
 passed for location and abounds in beautiful homes, which increase 
 in size and beauty as the hill is ascended. Here is Piedmont 
 Park, a natural glen with stream of water, supplemented by the 
 landscape gardener’s art-the result is a beautiful park containing 
 a Japanese tea garden, a restaurant, a pretty and commodious 
 club room, an outdoor theater and tables for picnicking. There 
 is also a large art gallery containing over eight hundred paintings. 
 
 Alameda.— South of Oakland is Alameda, on an island, the 
 San Antonio estuary having been conne&ed with the bay by an 
 artificial canal. The city is about four miles long and from three- 
 
 [202] 
 
THE ENVIRONS 
 
 quarters to one and one-half miles wide. The climate is rather 
 warmer than in the other bay cities. Palms and pepper trees 
 flourish abundantly and the streets are beautifully shaded. The 
 peninsula or encinal was once covered with evergreen oaks (en- 
 cina in Spanish) and many of these old and pi&uresque trees 
 still remain. 
 
 Alameda has excellent schools, a city hall, a Carnegie library 
 of more than thirty thousand volumes, and good church build- 
 ings. The population is nearly 25,000. Most of the prettiest 
 homes are near the bay. Along this bay shore is the best bathing 
 in the vicinity. 
 
 Berkeley lies north of Oakland, a charming city of over 
 40,000 population. The University of California is here, a co- 
 educational institution, with over four thousand students and 
 maintaining a summer school which draws some of the most 
 gifted men from Eastern and foreign universities. The Univer- 
 sity of California was founded fifty-four years ago by three Yale 
 men, one of whom, Dr. S. H. Willey, is still living in Berkeley. 
 It was first established in Oakland and known as The College 
 of California. Later it became the State University and in 1873 
 was removed to Berkeley. The present president, Dr. Benjamin 
 Ide Wheeler, was called here from Cornell University. The uni- 
 versity has prospered wonderfully under his leadership. The 
 campus is unsurpassed for natural beauty. 
 
 East of the campus buildings, in a natural amphitheatre of 
 the hills, is the celebrated Greek Theatre, modeled after that of 
 ancient Epidaurus. It was the gift of William R. Hearst. Many 
 notable performances have been given here and to be a part of 
 the audience, whether by night or day, is an enviable experience. 
 Over seven thousand can be comfortably seated. Many times it 
 has been packed to its utmost 
 capacity of standing room. 
 
 It is an inspiring vision, on a 
 sunny day, to see the tiers of 
 benches filled with people, 
 the bright hats and parasols 
 making it look like a great 
 garden of flowers, pennants 
 
 [ 2 ° 3 ] 
 
 Alamedans at Play. 
 
SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 gaily flying from the poles 
 around the top against the 
 background of the encircling 
 trees, with the blue Califor- 
 nian sky over it all. Birds, 
 mingling their music with 
 the whispering of the trees, 
 add to the enchantment. Two 
 Bach Festivals have been 
 held here, with a chorus of 
 two hundred voices, one hundred musicians and a pipe-organ 
 setup upon the stage. The best orchestras and bands have been 
 heard here. Bernhardt has found it a fitting setting for Phedre , 
 Margaret Anglin for Antigone and Maude Adams for an exquis- 
 ite evening performance of As Tou Like It; and the Ben Greet 
 Company has given here a rendering of A Midsummer Night's 
 Dream by moonlight. Every year adds some new and delightful 
 experience. During most of the year concerts are given here on 
 Sunday afternoon. The weather seldom forbids. 
 
 All the newer buildings of the campus, the Doe Library 
 building, the Boalt Law Library, California Hall, the School of 
 Mines, are built by the University Architect, John Galen How- 
 ard, after the plans of the French architect, Bernard, to whom 
 was awarded the large prize offered by Mrs. Phoebe Hearst for 
 the best plans for future buildings, adapted to the grounds. The 
 competition was open to architects of all nations, who either 
 visited the grounds or were sent relief maps of the campus. 
 These plans are a happy device to avoid the heterogeneous build- 
 ings, often characteristic of American universities. The campus 
 will grow in beauty with each building added, and in years to 
 come will form a perfeCt whole. 
 
 Besides the university and the public schools, there are in 
 Berkeley four theological seminaries (Congregational, Baptist, 
 Christian and Unitarian), several flourishing private schools and 
 a State Institution for the Blind, Deaf and Dumb. The last- 
 named is on Waring street, at the head of Parker, a large insti- 
 tution of several buildings, standing in well-kept grounds among 
 an abundance of flowers. 
 
 [ 2 ° 4 ] 
 
THE ENVIRONS 
 
 In addition to the fine university library, which includes 
 the famous Bancroft collection and several valuable bequests, 
 there is an excellent Carnegie library belonging to the city. Of 
 good hotels there are several, including the Shattuck, recently 
 opened. 
 
 The position of Berkeley is ideal— a gentle slope from the 
 bay back into the hills— and this situation makes for an unusual 
 number of beautiful residence sites, from which the views of the 
 bay, the Golden Gate, the hills and sunsets are superb. The 
 homes of North Berkeley, the new sections of Northbrae, Ken- 
 sington, Cragmont, and Thousand Oaks, and those of Clare- 
 mont Park are most of them thus favored. Nestled in the hills 
 of Claremont is a great million-dollar hotel, not yet completed. 
 It commands a wonderful view and the grounds, embracing a 
 beautiful old garden, will add much to its attractions. 
 
 Between Berkeley and Oakland is the Country Club, with 
 golf links and tennis courts. The drives through Claremont 
 Park, to Piedmont and over Piedmont hills are very beautiful. 
 
 The Key Route Trolley Trips from San Francisco afford 
 the hurried traveler a chance to see the eastern side of the bay 
 to good advantage— a whole day’s trip for one dollar, personally 
 conducted. Berkeley, with the university and Greek Theatre, is 
 seen; Oakland, including Idora Park (its great amusement place), 
 the beautiful residence seCtion of Piedmont, Piedmont Park and 
 Art Gallery and the ostrich farm at Melrose. Trips leave the 
 San Francisco Key Route ferry at 9:40 and 10:20 a. m. Another, 
 a half-day’s trip, not including Idora Park and Piedmont, leaves 
 at 1:20 p. m. Price includes admittance to all places mentioned. 
 
 But the following independent trip may be more according 
 to one’s liking: Take the Key Route ferry and the Berkeley 
 electric train connecting with 
 it across the bay. Leave the 
 train at Bancroft Way and 
 take street car there for the 
 corner of Bancroft Way and 
 College avenue. This makes 
 the least uphill walk to reach 
 the Greek Theatre. Enter 
 
 [205] 
 
 Claremont Hotel and the Beautiful Grounds 
 in Midwinter. 
 
SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 the university grounds at the 
 College Avenue entrance and 
 take the road uphill at the 
 right. The walls of the thea- 
 ter will soon be seen. After 
 viewing that, a walk south 
 through the campus will give 
 a glimpse of most of the uni- 
 versity buildings. At the en- 
 
 A Hint of the Attractions of Piedmont Park. trance at TL elegraph avenue 
 
 is a handsome memorial gate, the gift of Mrs. Jane Sather. The 
 walk should be continued through the grounds to the southern 
 boundary. If cc the year’s at the spring” the grounds will be fra- 
 grant with the yellow blossoms of the acacia, of which many 
 varieties abound in the campus. There are many other beautiful 
 trees, the most notable being the ancient live oaks. Many fine 
 specimens are passed on the walk to the Oxford Street entrance. 
 The Euclid Avenue car line is only a short distance from here. 
 If the day is clear, a ride to the end of the line will repay one. 
 By leaving the car and walking a few rods down to an open lot, 
 a fine panoramic view is spread out like a map-San Francisco, 
 the bay, the Golden Gate and the cities on the eastern shore. 
 Returning on the Euclid Avenue line to University avenue, take 
 the College Avenue line towards Oakland and transfer to the 
 Piedmont car for Piedmont Park. Here luncheon may be ob- 
 tained and the art gallery visited. Returning to Oakland a trans- 
 fer may be made to an East Oakland car passing the museum, 
 and from there a car may be taken to the ostrich farm. 
 
 Marin CouNTY.-Across the Golden Gate, Mount Tamal- 
 pais dominates the Marin County hills. A trip to the summit 
 and back may be easily made in half a day. There is an excel- 
 lent inn and it is a delightful experience to spend the night there 
 for the sake of the sunset and sunrise. Near by is Muir Woods, 
 a grove of redwood trees, which should also be visited. The 
 route is by Sausalito ferry boat to the pretty little town of Sau- 
 salito, which clings in a pid:uresque way to the side of the hill. 
 On the point opposite is Belvedere, facing the small bay which 
 is the anchorage for the house-boats and the yachts. At Sausalito 
 
THE ENVIRONS 
 
 is the Mill Valley train which conneds at Mill Valley with the 
 u crookedest railroad in the world.” It is not steep, but winds 
 back and forth as it climbs the mountain, giving a new and sur- 
 passing view at every turn. The ride up the mountain is worth 
 the trip, even without the views which await one at the summit. 
 If it is clear, the bay, the towns around it, the hills and valleys 
 and little lakes, San Francisco, the ocean, the Farallone islands 
 (twenty-seven miles out in the sea) and the mountains of the 
 Coast Range can all be seen. If it is foggy below and sunny on 
 the summit, as often happens, the effed: is something worth trav- 
 eling far to see. To stand high in the sunshine and look down 
 upon waves and billows of fog, tossing and tumbling like the 
 ocean in a storm, is an experience never to be forgotten. Tamal- 
 pais means the country of the Tamals, an Indian tribe which 
 lived in that vicinity. 
 
 Another pretty trip to take from Sausalito is by eledric 
 train to San Anselmo and San Rafael. The piduresque gray 
 stone buildings, crowning the hill at San Anselmo, are the San 
 Francisco Theological Seminary, whose president is Dr. War- 
 ren S. Landon. San Rafael is a charming town with a population 
 of between five and six thousand. Here, in 1 8 1 7, was established 
 the Mission of San Rafael Arcangel, an offshoot of the Mission 
 of San Francisco. The principal reason which led to its founda- 
 tion was to check the feared encroachment of the Russians from 
 Fort Ross. No trace of the Mission now remains save a couple 
 of old pear trees. The present Catholic church is on the old 
 Mission ground. Many wealthy San Franciscans have homes in 
 San Rafael, and many lovely places are half-hidden in the hills 
 all the way between San Rafael and Sausalito. The drives in 
 Marin county afford wondrously beautiful scenery. 
 
 T HE PENINSULA.-South 
 of San Francisco, down the 
 peninsula (of which the city 
 forms the apex), stretches a 
 line of towns, schools and 
 beautiful country homes. 
 
 At- Burlingame is the 
 Country Club with a club 
 
 [207] 
 
SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 house and the usual out-of- 
 door sports. Here also is 
 the St. Matthew’s Military 
 School, established forty-five 
 years ago by the Reverend 
 Alfred Lee Brewer, D. D., 
 who also built St. Matthew’s 
 church in San Mateo. The 
 school buildings stand in 
 beautiful grounds, eighty- 
 five acres in extent, among the foothills of the Coast Range. The 
 Reverend William A. Brewer succeeded his father as reCtor of 
 the school. 
 
 Further down the peninsula, at Belmont, is another excel- 
 lent military preparatory school for boys. 
 
 Near Palo Alto are the beautiful buildings of the Leland 
 Stanford Junior University, founded and endowed by his grief- 
 stricken parents to perpetuate the memory of their only son, in 
 order that the lives of the sons and daughters of others might 
 be the richer and better because theirs had lived. 
 
 In building this university there was the rare opportunity 
 to construct a homogeneous group of buildings. The cloistered 
 quadrangles of Stanford are of Mission type. The buildings are 
 of yellow stone, harmonious with one another and with the land- 
 scape. The university suffered much by the earthquake. Two 
 new buildings fell, and the wonderful Memorial Church, with the 
 exquisite carvings and mosaics, became, through a fault in con- 
 struction, a chaotic ruin; but faculty and students rallied to the 
 president’s call, “Let us remember that this is the time to prove 
 that it is men, not buildings, that make a university.” Gradually 
 the buildings have been replaced. 
 
 The president, Dr. David Starr Jordan, a man whose name 
 adds lustre to any institution, is one of the strongest forces for 
 good on this coast. 
 
 A trip to Stanford, including a drive through the campus, 
 a visit to some of the buildings and a drive through the old Stan- 
 ford stock farm at Menlo Park, is most enjoyable. From Palo 
 Alto eleCtric cars give frequent service through the beautiful 
 
THE ENVIRONS 
 
 Santa Clara valley to Los Gatos and San Jose. Coaches run daily 
 from San Jose to the Lick Observatory on Mt. Hamilton, the 
 gift of James Lick, whose remains are buried beneath the great 
 telescope. The observatory is affiliated with the University of 
 California. Visitors are received daily, but only on Saturday 
 nights are they allowed to look through the telescope. 
 
 Trips down the peninsula may be taken by Southern Pa- 
 cific trains from Third and Townsend Street station, or, as far 
 as San Mateo, by elebtric car leaving Fifth and Market streets. 
 
 The Wishbone Trip, by automobile, covers in one day one 
 hundred miles of the bay region, Santa Clara valley and penin- 
 sula. At 8:30 a. m. an automobile may be taken at the Palace 
 Hotel or the St. Francis which crosses the bay to Oakland, runs 
 through Fruitvale, along the foothill boulevard to Haywards, 
 and on to San Jose; back through Santa Clara and Palo Alto 
 (with a visit to Stanford University), through Menlo Park, Bel- 
 mont and San Mateo. The fare is eight dollars. 
 
 From Twelfth and Mission streets a trip may be taken over 
 the Ocean Shore to Half-Moon Bay, where are some of the old 
 adobe houses of the Spanish days “before the Gringo came.” 
 
 The bay itself affords the opportunity for delightful excur- 
 sions. A sight-seeing trip around the bay is made twice daily by 
 the steamer Empress, which leaves a wharf between Howard and 
 Folsom streets, two and one-half blocks south of the Ferry Build- 
 ing, at 10 a. m. and 2 p. m. The fare for the three hours’ trip is 
 one dollar. 
 
 For the same price, on a steamboat of the Monticello line, 
 one may take the longer trip to Vallejo, where connexion is 
 made with the ferry boats to the Mare Island Navy Yard, and 
 with ele&ric trains which run through the beautiful Napa valley. 
 As the boats make six round 
 trips daily, a half or a whole 
 day may be taken for the 
 excursion. Very nice meals 
 are served on these boats. 
 
 The wharf is at the foot ot 
 Clay street, just north of the 
 Ferry Building. 
 
 [209] 
 
 Looking Into the Quadrangle, Stanford University. 
 
V 
 
 MAPS OF 
 
 SAN FRANCISCO • THE BAY REGION 
 AND EXPOSITION SITE 
 • INDEX • 
 
 1 
 
.VALLEJO 
 
 MARE /$. 1 
 NAVY YARD : \ 
 
 ANTiOCfl- 
 
 SAN|§j 
 
 Xkrti’H 
 
 Mt Diablo 
 
 Pi lobot 
 
 ffcLROSE / 
 
 #>> ■» it, * 
 
 |El M HURST ^ 
 
 3fct MN L£AM t WO ; 
 
 AH FRANGI 
 
 BRUNO 
 
 A'«rf> 
 
 fepKOTC i 
 
 Pillar Ph 
 
 tLViSO 
 
 Pigeon pi 
 
 [ 2 1 3 ] 
 
 Relief Map of the Bay Region 
 and the Peninsula. 
 
Pacific Ocean 
 
 10 
 
 11 
 
 15 
 
 IB 
 
 DDDODDFrOOOOOODDODDDDODODDDDDJDODDODDpODOftftftp: 
 
 -□odoqddToTddoddddodododdddddodddoodddJoddd| ' 
 
 '‘DOODDDroTODDDDpADDDOD&MDQOOQDDDDO^ 
 ODOODBi®DailDODOl0lil0[lflOOB 
 ^DOOoimpDODDODDDDDDOOOODDQD 
 ^ODDaOoMpDDDDOOOODODpODOOOOODDOOBHI 
 v ^ilOOODOOOOOOOOOOODOOOOOOOOQf 
 
 DODOODODBOO0OODDDODOODODDBOO 
 OODODBODQDOOlOQDUUUPljliJuUOF 
 
 ODDDOODODDDDMP^DPD'tl , 
 
 PDDDDODDDDDl^pDDDDDODDpDlDDDDD 
 
 DODD """ 
 
 If 
 
15 1 ® 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 
 
 14 15 16 
 
 [ 2I 5] 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 
 5 
 
 6 
 
 7 
 
 3 
 
 9 
 
 10 
 
 12 
 
 13 
 
 14 
 
 15 
 
 16 
 
 17 
 
 ta 
 
The Plan of the 
 Panama-Pacific International 
 Exposition 
 
 at the Harbor View Site. 
 
 BAY - OF * JAN ♦ FRANCIJCO ' 
 
Academy of Sciences, 25, 
 65, 1 7 1 . 
 
 Addis, Yda, 185. 
 
 Affiliated Colleges, 171. 
 Agassiz, Louis, 186. 
 Aiken, Charles S.,190. 
 Aitken, Robert, 75, 85. 
 Alameda, 53^200, 202. 
 Alamo Square, 88. 
 Alemany, Archbishop, 27, 
 
 1 1 5 - 
 
 Alcatraz Island, 96. 
 
 Alta California, 1 82, 1 84. 
 Alta Plaza, 88. 
 Amundsen, Roald, 73. 
 Angel Island, 4, 97. 
 Anthropological Museum, 
 
 I7 V I75 * 
 
 Appraiser’s Building, 122. 
 Arboretum, 66, 76. 
 Arguello Family, 93,119. 
 Armory, State, 1 26. 
 
 Art Galleries, I 71, 173. 
 Art Institute, 175. 
 Atherton, Gertrude, 47, 
 
 94, l88 > ! 9G J 95 • 
 Aviary, The, 67. 
 
 Ayala, Juan de, 4, 97. 
 Ayuntamiento, 82. 
 
 Baker’s Beach, 80, 89. 
 Baker, Senator, 23. 
 Bancroft, Hubert H., 1 70. 
 Bancroft Library, 170, 
 205. 
 
 Barrett, Lawrence, 155. 
 Bartlett, Governor^, 183. 
 Bartlett, Wm. C.,186. 
 Bay Trips, 209. 
 
 Beach Chalet, 73. 
 
 Bella Union, 1 9. 
 
 Berkeley, 52, 53, 203. 
 Bernal Park, 88. 
 
 [ 2 1 7 ] 
 
 Index 
 
 Bierce, Ambrose, 1 85,1 89. 
 Bigelow, Henry, 1 89, 1 9 1 . 
 Black Point, 95. 
 
 Black, Winifred, 191 . 
 Blanchet, Father, 1 1 5 . 
 Bohemian Club, 159. 
 Bonner, Geraldine, 188. 
 Booth, Edwin, 155. 
 Booth, Junius Brutus, 155. 
 Boucicault, 155. 
 
 Brannan, Samuel, 9, 182. 
 Broderick, David C. , 1 2 1 . 
 Brooks, Noah, I 86. 
 Brown, J. Ross, 186. 
 Bryant, Edwin, 9. 
 
 Buena Vista Park, 81. 
 Bulle tiii, The, 190. 
 
 Buon Gusto Restaurant, 
 151- 
 
 Burgess, Gelett, 1 5 1 , 189. 
 Burlingame, 207. 
 Burnham, Daniel H., 50. 
 
 Cable Cars, 50, 56. 
 California Market, 152. 
 Californian, The, 9, 1 1 , 
 182, 184, 185. 
 California Star, 9, 182. 
 California Theater, 156. 
 Call, The, 1 9 1 . 
 
 Camera Club, 1 61 . 
 Cameron, Miss D., 141. 
 Campi’s Restaurant, 1 5 1 . 
 Carmany, John, 186. 
 Carson, Dr. L. C., 202. 
 Casey and Cora, 1 9, 190. 
 Central Pacific Railroad, 
 23, 200. 
 
 Chain of Lakes, 70. 
 Children’s Hospital, 178. 
 Children’s Playground, 
 62, 76. 
 
 Chretien, Adele, 191. 
 
 , Y 
 
 ChronicleBldg., 1 29, 193. 
 Chronicle, The, 192. 
 
 City and County Hospi- 
 tal, 179. 
 
 City Hall, 51,1 26. 
 
 City Hall Square, 87. 
 City Hotel, 82. 
 
 Civic Center, 51, 88. 
 Clark’s Point, 5 40. 
 
 Cliff House, 26, 78. 
 Climate, 37. 
 
 Clipper Ships, 17. 
 
 Cohn, Dr. Elkan,ii7. 
 Coleman, Wm. T., 27. 
 College Clubs, 164. 
 Colleges and Schools, 1 76. 
 Colton, Walter, 9, 182. 
 ColumbiaPark Boys’Club, 
 88 . 
 
 Columbia Square, 88. 
 Commercial Club, 1 6 1 . 
 CommonwealthCl’b, 1 6 1 . 
 Concordia Club, 162. 
 Conservatory, 65, 75. 
 Coolbrith, Ina, 185. 
 Coppa’sRest’nt, 1 30,1 50. 
 Cosgrove, J. O’Hara, 1 89. 
 Cosmos Club, 162. 
 Coulter, W. A. , 1 29. 
 Crabtree, Lotta, 155,1 56. 
 Cox, Palmer, 182. 
 
 Creek Route, 53. 
 
 Crocker Bldg., 1 29. 
 Crocker, Charles, 23, 66. 
 Crothers, R. A., 190. 
 Cummins, AdleyH., 188. 
 Cummins, Mrs. A., 188. 
 
 Daily News, 1 9 1 . 
 
 Dana, Richard H., 8, 92, 
 97, 102. 
 
 Danziger, G. A., 189. 
 Davis, Samuel, 188. 
 
Davis,W.H. 81,97, 199. 
 De Haro, Francisco, 6. 
 De Quille, Dan., 183. 
 Derby, Colonel, 184. 
 Development Board, 53, 
 172. 
 
 Dewey Monument, 85. 
 De Young, Charles and 
 M. H., 192. 
 
 Docks, Steamship, 53. 
 Donahue Fountain, 180. 
 Donahue, J.&P.,55, 1 80. 
 Doxey, William, 189. 
 Drake, Sir Francis, 3. 
 Drydock, 55. 
 
 Duboce Park, 89. 
 
 Earthquake of 1906, 30. 
 El Camino Real, 85. 
 Elder & Co., Paul, 133, 
 190. 
 
 El Dorado, 19, 123. 
 
 Elks, The, 162. 
 Emergency Hospital, 179. 
 Emperor Norton, 29. 
 Euphemia, 40. 
 
 Eureka Valley, 43. 
 
 Ewer, Rev. F, 1 1 3, 184. 
 Examiner , They 191. 
 
 Fairmont Hotel, 145. 
 Family Club, 162. 
 Farallone Islands, 79. 
 Fennell, Miss Nora, 105. 
 Field, C. K. , 3 1 , 3 2, 190. 
 Field, S. J., 1 2, 61, 1 42. 
 Figueroa, Governor, 5, 6. 
 Fior dTtalia, I 5 1. 
 
 Fires, Early, 15. 
 
 First Alcalde, 9. 
 
 First American-born Child, 
 81. 
 
 First Bank, 82. 
 
 First Cable Car, 56. 
 
 First Church Built, 108. 
 First Eledlric Cars, 56. 
 
 INDEX 
 
 First Gas Lighting, 17. 
 First Hotel, 82. 
 
 First House, 6. 
 
 First Map, 6. 
 
 First Mayor, 48. 
 
 First Newspaper, 9, 82, 
 182. 
 
 First Road to Mission, 7. 
 First School House, 82. 
 First Ship, 4. 
 
 First Steamer, 1 2. 
 
 First Store Building, 82. 
 First Street Surveyed, 6. 
 First Theater, 154. 
 Fisherman’s Wharf, 54. 
 Fitch, George Hamlin, 
 167, 192. 
 
 Fitch, G. K.,190, 1 91. 
 Fitch, Henry S.,200. 
 Fitch, Mr. & Mrs.T, 188. 
 Flood Bldg., 1 29, 157. 
 Flower Vendors, 1 8 1 . 
 Flume, 20. 
 
 Fly Trap Restaurant, 1 49. 
 Foote, Gen. L. H., 1 85 . 
 Ford, J. McD., 1 84. 
 Forrest, Edwin, 155. 
 
 Fort Baker, 96. 
 
 Fort Blanco, 93. 
 
 Fort Gunnybags, 19. 
 
 Fort Mason, 95. 
 
 Fort McDowell, 97. 
 
 Fort Miley, 89, 96. 
 
 Fort Point, 39, 93, 96. 
 Fort Ross, 7. 
 
 Fort Scott, 93, 96. 
 Fourgeaud, Dr. V. J.,10. 
 Franklin Square, 89. 
 Fremont, JohnC.,39, 95. 
 French Hospital, 179. 
 French Library, 170. 
 
 Galvez, 3. 
 
 Garfield Square, 89. 
 
 G. A. R. Posts, 165. 
 Geary, John W., 1 7, 48. 
 
 Geary St. Railway, 56. 
 Geberding, C. 0.,I90. 
 George, Henry, 1 86, 1 91 . 
 German Hospital, 179. 
 German House, 162, 
 Gilman, President, 1 86. 
 Gjoa, The, 73. 
 
 Goat Island, 96. 
 
 Gold Discovery, 10. 
 Golden Era, The, 183. . 
 Golden Gate, 39, 96. 
 Golden Gate Park, Routes 
 to, 74. 
 
 Golden Pheasant Restau- 
 rant, 152. 
 
 Goodman, Joseph, 188. 
 Grand Opera House, 157. 
 Great Highway, 77. 
 Greek Theatre, 203. 
 Gump,S.&G., 1 32, 175. 
 Gwin, W. M., 1 21. 
 
 Hahnemann Hosp’1,179. 
 Half-Moon Bay, 209. 
 Hallidie, A. S., 50, 56. 
 Hallock, Henry W., 1 30. 
 Hall of Justice, 122. 
 Hamilton Square, 89. 
 Happenberger, Frank, 87. 
 Happy Valley, 43. 
 Harbor Commis’rs, 53. 
 Hart, Jerome A., 188. 
 Harte, Bret, 94, 143, 
 183, 185, 186. 
 
 Hayes, Col. Thomas, 43. 
 Hayes Park, 153. 
 
 Hayes Tract, 21 . 
 HayesValley,43,49, 103. 
 Hearst Building, 193. 
 Hearst, Mrs. Phoebe, 1 7 1 , 
 204. 
 
 Hearst, Senator, 1 91. 
 Hearst, W.R., 191, 203. 
 Hittelljohn, 3, 1 84, 185. 
 Hittell, Theodore, 3, 1 20, 
 169, 185, 190. 
 
Holder, Charles F., 185. 
 Holly Park, 89. 
 
 Holman, Alfred, 188. 
 Hopkins, Mark, 23, 174. 
 Hopper, James, 46, 85. 
 Horse Cars, 22, 56. 
 Horticultural Com’r, 53. 
 Howard, John G., 204. 
 Hudson’s Bay Co. ,7, 45. 
 Hume, Hugh, 1 89. 
 Hunt, Rev. T. D,, 108. 
 Hunter’s Point, 55. 
 Huntington, C. P., 23,68. 
 Huntington Falls, 68. 
 Hutchings, Jas. M., 184. 
 Hyde, George, 9. 
 
 Immigration Station, 97. 
 Impressio?is ^rter/y, 190. 
 Institute of Art, 174. 
 Irwin, Wallace, 45, 187. 
 Irwin, Will, 141, 149, 
 173, 189. 
 
 Italian Quarter, 44, 45. 
 
 Jack’s Rotisserie, 149. 
 Japanese Tea Garden, 63, 
 75 - 
 
 Jeems Pipes, 1 84. 
 Jefferson Square, 86. 
 Jenny Lind Theater, 1 23, 
 154 - 
 
 Job, Peter, 147. 
 
 Jordan, Dr. D. S., 208. 
 Judah, Theodore D., 23. 
 Jules’ Restaurant, 149. 
 Jury Brothers, 147. 
 
 Kearney, D., 28, 87, 1 20. 
 Keeler, Charles A., 124, 
 Keith, Wm., 1 10, 174. 
 Kelly, Allan, 191 . 
 
 Kerr, Orpheus C., 183. 
 Key Route, 52. 
 
 Key Route Trips, 205. 
 King, Clarence, 186. 
 
 [ 2 1 9] 
 
 INDEX 
 
 King of William, James, 
 19, 1 19, 121, 190. 
 King,T.S., 23, 111,183. 
 Kip, Bishop, 13,113,1 86. 
 Knapp, Adeline, 1 9 1 . 
 
 LaFayette Park, 88. 
 Lagoons, 43. 
 
 Lake Alvord, 70. 
 
 Land’s End, 80. 
 
 Land Titles, 22, 201. 
 Lane Hospital, 178. 
 Langlois, Father, 1 1 5. 
 LangsdorfF, Dr., 100. 
 Lark , The , 189. 
 
 Latin Quarter, 83. 
 
 Law Schools, 177. 
 LeConte, Joseph, 1 86. 
 Lee, Custis, 93. 
 
 Leese, Jacob P., 5, 7, 8 1 . 
 Lick House, 23, 25, 143. 
 Lick, James, 24, 71, 87, 
 172. 
 
 Lick Observatory, 209. 
 Life Saving Stations, 74. 
 Lime Point, 39, 96. 
 Lincoln Park, 89. 
 
 Lincoln Way, 60. 
 
 Lloyd Lake, 69. 
 
 Lobos Creek, 20, 43. 
 Lobos Square, 89. 
 Lodges, 1 59. 
 
 Lone Mountain, 46, 1 8 1 . 
 Lotta’s Fountain, 180. 
 Loughead, Flora H., 188. 
 Luna’s Restaurant, 1 5 1 . 
 
 Maguire, Thomas, I 54. 
 Map, Official, 20. 
 Marchand’s Rest’nt, 145. 
 Mare Island, 97, 209. 
 Marin County, 38, 206. 
 Market Street, 47, 49. 
 Marsh, Geo. T. , I 34, 145. 
 Marshall Square, 87. 
 Masonic Temple, 162. 
 
 Massett, Stephen, 183. 
 McCullough, John, 155. 
 McEwen, Arthur, 188, 
 189,191. 
 
 McGeehan, W. O., 36. 
 McKinley, Pres., 71, 75. 
 McLaren, John, 72. 
 Mechanics’ Institute, 168. 
 Mechanics- Mercantile Li- 
 brary, 168. 
 
 Medical Schools, 177. 
 Meiji, The, 1 34. 
 
 Meiggs, Henry, 19, 41 . 
 Menken, A. I.,i 55, 183. 
 Merced, Lake, 4. 
 Merchants’ Exch.,129. 
 Merritt, Lake, 201. 
 Metropolitan The’ tr, 1 5 5 . 
 Metson Lake, 69. 
 
 Mile Rock, 80. 
 
 Millard, Frank B.,188. 
 Miller, Joaquin, 183,185, 
 188. 
 
 Mills College, 177, 202. 
 Mill Valley, 53. 
 
 Mines, Rev. F., 1 1 3, 1 14. 
 Mining Bureau, 53, 172. 
 Mission Dolores, 5, 26, 
 106. 
 
 Missionsin California, 3,4. 
 Mission Park, 89. 
 Monadnock Building, 129. 
 Montez, Lola, 155. 
 Montgomery Block, 1 30, 
 150. 
 
 Montgomery ? Captain, 8, 
 9, 82. 
 
 Montgomery Street^ 40. 
 Monticello S. S. Line, 97, 
 209. 
 
 Moraga, Don Jose, 91, 
 98, 106. 
 
 Mormons, 9. 
 
 Morrow, W. C., 185, 
 188, I 89, 1 9 1 . 
 Mountain Lake, 43. 
 
Mountain Lake Park, 90. 
 Mount Tamalpais, 38, 
 53, 206. 
 
 Muir, John, 185. 
 
 Muir Woods, 20 6. 
 Mulford, Prentice, 183. 
 Museum, Park, 63, 172. 
 
 Napa Valley, 209. 
 
 Native Daughters, 162. 
 Native Sons, 162. 
 
 Native Sons* Monument, 
 181. 
 
 Naval Training Sch’l, 96. 
 Niantic, 40. 
 
 Nob Hill, 24, 46. 
 
 Noe Valley, 43. 
 
 Norris, Frank, 152, 189. 
 North Beach, 49. 
 Northwestern-Pacific, 53. 
 
 Oakland, 52, 53, 200. 
 Oakland Museum, 173. 
 Occidental H’t’1,23, 143. 
 Occidental Board, 1 41. 
 Ocean Boulevard, 77. 
 Ocean Shore R. R.,209. 
 Odd Fellows, 163 . 
 
 O’ Farrell, Jasper, 47. 
 Older, Fremont, 190. 
 Olympic Club, 79, 161. 
 Orpheum, 158. 
 
 Overland Monthly , 185. 
 Overton, G., 188. 
 
 Pacific Building, 129. 
 Pacific News , 183. 
 Pacific-Union Club, 159. 
 Palace Hotel, 24, 143. 
 Palo Alto, 208. 
 
 Palou, Father, 91, 98. 
 Panhandle, 61. 
 
 Parker House, 142, 154. 
 Park Lodge, 75. 
 
 Park Museum, 63, 172. 
 Parkside Line, 60. 
 
 Park Water Supply, 72. 
 
 INDEX 
 
 Parrott Block, 130. 
 Patigian, Haig, 181. 
 
 Paul, John, 185. 
 Peninsula, The, 207. 
 Peninsular Trips, 209. 
 Peralta Family, 199. 
 Phelan, Jas. D., 1 8 1 . 
 Phoenix, J., 142, 184. 
 Pickering, L.,190, 1 91. 
 Piedmont, 52, 202. 
 Piedmont Art Gal’ry, 175. 
 Pig’n’ Whistle Rest’t, 1 52. 
 Pioneer Magazine, 184. 
 Pioneer Park, 90. 
 Pioneers, Daughters, 1 64. 
 Pioneer Society, 25, 163. 
 Pixley, Frank, 188. 
 
 Plank Roads, 8, 1 7, 48 . 
 Plaza, The, 8, 14. 
 Pleasant Valley, 43. 
 
 Point Bonita, 80, 96. 
 Point Lobos, 4, 17, 96. 
 Point Reyes, 3, 79. 
 
 Polk, Willis, 83. 
 
 Pollock, Edward, 1 84. 
 Pony Express, 22. 
 
 Poodle Dog, 146. 
 
 Porter, Bruce, 83, 189. 
 Portola-Louvre, 148. 
 Portsmouth Square, 8, 14, 
 81, 197. 
 
 Portsmouth, The, 8, 82. 
 Post Office, 125. 
 
 Post , The, 1 91. 
 
 Prayer Book Cross, 69, 7 1. 
 Presidio, 5, 91, 99. 
 Presidio Parkway, 94. 
 Press Club, 163. 
 
 Public Library, 168. 
 
 Quarantine Station, 97. 
 Quiros, 99. 
 
 Ralston, W. C., 24, 1 28, 
 143, 156. 
 
 Raymond, John T., I 56. 
 
 Realf, Richard, 188. 
 Refugees, 77, 86, 88,95. 
 Rezanov, 93, 100. 
 Richardson, D. S., 185. 
 Richardson, W, A., 5, 7. 
 Rincon Hill, 46. 
 
 Rincon Point, 5, 40. 
 Roach, Phillip, 191. 
 Robertson, Peter, 192. 
 Roman, Anton, 186. 
 Roosevelt, Pres., 85. 
 Royce, Josiah, 185. 
 
 Russ House, 22, 143. 
 Russian Hill, 45, 119. 
 Russ’ Garden, 17, 153. 
 
 St. Ann’s Valley, 42, 103. 
 San Anselmo, 53, 207. 
 San Carlos, 4, 97, 99. 
 Sand Lot Party, 28. 
 
 San Franciscan, The, 188. 
 San Francisco’s Name, 9. 
 San Francisco Seals, 15. 
 Sanguinetti Rest’nt, 151. 
 San Rafael, 53, 207. 
 Santa Clara Univ., 177. 
 Santa Fe R. R., 52. 
 Santillan,Father,i03 ? 1 14. 
 Sausalito, 52, 53, 206. 
 School of Design, 175. 
 Schussler’s Art Rm.,175. 
 Scottish Rite Tmpl., 163. 
 Scott, Rev. Wm. A., 1 10. 
 Seal Rocks, 79. 
 
 Semple, Robert, 9, 182. 
 Serra, Junipero, 3, 75, 99. 
 Sharon, Wm., 62, 200. 
 Sherman, Wm.T., 1 9. 
 Shreve Building, 1 30. 
 Sight-seeing Autos., 196. 
 Sight-seeing Cars, 59, i 96. 
 Sill, Edw. Rowland, 1 85. 
 Sloat, Commodore, 8. 
 Soldiers’ Monument, 1 8 1 . 
 Somers, Fred’k M., 185. 
 Sothern, E. H., 1 56. 
 
 [ 220 ] 
 
Soule, Frank, 183, 184. 
 Southern Club, 164. 
 Southern Pac. Ferries, 53. 
 Southern Pacific Hospital, 
 179 - 
 
 Southern Pac.Sta.,52,59. 
 South Park, 47, 49, 90. 
 Spreckels Bldg., 1 29, 193. 
 Spreckels, Claus, 64. 
 Spreckels, John D., 191. 
 Spreckels Lake, 70, 76. 
 Stadium, 72, 76. 
 Stanford, Leland, 23. 
 Stanford Univ., I 77, 208. 
 State Societies, 164. 
 Steam Cars, 22, 49, 56. 
 Steamer Days, 36. 
 Stevenson, Robert Louis, 
 47, 83, no, 143. 
 
 St. Francis of Assisi, 3. 
 St. Francis Hotel, 86, 1 44. 
 St. Ignatius College, 177. 
 St. Ignatius Library, 170. 
 St. Joseph’s Hospital, 179. 
 St. Luke’s Hospital, 179. 
 St. Mary’s College, 177. 
 St. Mary’s Hospital, 179. 
 Stoddard, Charles W., 1 7, 
 20, 46, 103, 1 20, 183. 
 Stow Lake, 68. 
 Strawberry Hill, 68, 75. 
 Streets, Direction of, 59. 
 Streets, Names, 47, 48. 
 Sub-Treasury Bldg., 122. 
 Sunnyside Park, 90. 
 Sunset Magazine , 190. 
 Sutro, Adolph, 25, 78. 
 Sutro Baths, 78, 173. 
 Sutro Gardens, 26, 78. 
 Sutro Library, 26, 170. 
 Sutter, Captain, 10, 1 1 . 
 Sutter Street R. R., 49. 
 Swain’s Restaurant, 152. 
 
 Taft, President, 201. 
 Tait-Zinkand’s, 148. 
 
 [221] 
 
 INDEX 
 
 Taylor, Bayard, 12, 13, 
 14, 102. 
 
 T aylor. Rev. W. , 1 4, 1 7 8 . 
 Techau Tavern, 149. 
 Tehama House, 142. 
 Telegraph Hill, 1 2,1 7,44. 
 Temescal, 44, 199. 
 Temple of Music, 65. 
 Territorial Enterprise, 
 183, 188. 
 
 Terry, Judge, 1 21 . 
 Tetrazzini, Madame, 1 80. 
 Tharp, Newton, 85. 
 Theological Seminaries, 
 
 1 77, 204. 
 
 Thistle Club, 163. 
 Tiburon, 53. 
 
 Tilden, D., 180, 181. 
 Tollgate, 49. 
 
 Town Talk , 189. 
 Transportation Club, 1 64. 
 T rue Californian, 183. 
 Turn Verein, 163. 
 
 Twain, Mark, 143, 183, 
 18;, 191 . 
 
 Twin Peaks, 46. 
 
 Union IronWorks, 55. 
 Union League Club, 164. 
 Union Square, 85. 
 
 United Railroads, 56, 58. 
 University of California, 
 
 \ 77 >' 2 ° 3 - 
 
 University Club, 164. 
 
 U. of C. Hospital, 1 78. 
 U. of C. Museum, 173. 
 Univ. of the Pacific, 177. 
 U. S. Custom House, 1 22. 
 U. S . Gen . Hospital, 179. 
 U.S. Marine Hospital, 94, 
 1 79 - 
 
 U. S, Mint, I 23. 
 
 Vallejo, 97, 209. 
 
 Vallejo, Gen. M., 27, 100. 
 Vancouver, 100. 
 
 m I 
 
 vanNessAve.,34,35,48. 
 Van Ness, James, 43, 48. 
 Verandah, The, 19. 
 
 Ver Mehr, Rev. Dr., 1 13. 
 Vickery, Atkins & Tor- 
 rey, 133, 175. 
 Vigilance Committees, 1 8, 
 19, 20, 83. 
 
 Vioget, Jean, 6, 47. 
 
 Wade, Dr. Thomas, 156. 
 Ward, A., 155, 183. 
 Warfield, David, 156. 
 Washerwoman’s Lagoon, 
 43 > 4 8 - 
 
 Washington Square, 90. 
 Water Front, Original^©. 
 W ave. The, 188 . 
 
 W. C. T. U.,165. 
 
 Webb, Charles H.,185. 
 Western Pac. R. R.,52. 
 Wharves of To-day, 53. 
 Wharves, Old, 41, 42. 
 What Cheer House, 142. 
 Wheeler, Dr. B. I., 203. 
 Wiggin, Kate D., 185. 
 Willey, Rev. Dr., 109, 
 186, 203. 
 
 Williams, Rev. A., 82, 
 103, 108, 176, 183. 
 Willows,The, 1 8,43, 153. 
 Winn’s Restaurants, 146. 
 Wishbone Trip, 209. 
 
 W oman’ s Exchange, 152. 
 Women’s Clubs, 165. 
 Woods, S. D., 143, 180. 
 Woodward’s Garden, 
 
 1 53 - 
 
 Yerba Buena, 5, 9,47, 81. 
 Y erbaBuenaCemetery , 8 7 . 
 Yerba Buena Cove, 40. 
 Yerba Buena Island, 96. 
 
 Y. M. C. A., 164. 
 
 Y. M. H. A., 165. 
 Young, John P.,192. 
 
 Y. W. C. A., 165. 
 
HERE ENDS SAN FRANCISCO AS IT WAS, AS IT IS, AND 
 HOW TO SEE IT . A BOOK OF INFORMATION ABOUT 
 . THE CITY BY THE GOLDEN GATE FOR ALL HER . 
 LOVERS • WRITTEN BY HELEN THROOP PURDY, PUB- 
 LISHED BY PAUL ELDER AND COMPANY AT THEIR 
 TOMOYE PRESS, THE TYPOGRAPHY SUPERVISED BY 
 JOHN SWART IN SAN FRANCISCO, SEPTEMBER, MCMXII