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THE 
 
 HOUSEKEEPER’S INSTRUCTOR 
 
 O R, 
 
 UNIVERSAL FAMILY COOK . 
 
 BEING AN AMPLE AND CLEAR DISPLAY OP THE 
 
 ART OF COOKERY 
 
 IN ALL ITS VARIOUS BRANCHES. 
 
 CONTAINING / 
 
 PROPER DIRECTIONS for DRESSING all Kinds of 
 
 Butcher’s Meat, Poultry, Game, Fish, &c. 
 
 ALSO, THE 
 
 Method of preparing Soups, Hajhes , and Made Di[hes t 
 
 WITH f 
 
 The Whole Art of Confedlionary, Pickling, Preferving, See. 
 
 LIKEWISE 
 
 The Making and Keeping in Perfection Britijh Panes ; 
 
 AND 
 
 PROPER RULES FOR BREWING MALT LIQUOR, 
 
 As well for Family Confumption as the Regale of private Vifitants. 
 
 TO WHICH IS ADDED, 
 
 The Complete Art of Carving, 
 
 -ILLUSTRATED WITH ENGRAVINGS, 
 
 Explaining, by proper References, the Manner in which the Young PraRiUonen 
 may acquit himfelf at Table with Elegance and Eafe. 
 
 al so, 
 
 BILLS OF FARE FOR EVERY MONTH IN THE YEAR j 
 
 With COPPER-PLATES displaying 
 
 The Best Manner of decorating a Table ; 
 
 Whereby every Perfon will be enabled to add to the Art of Cookery the propc? 
 Difpofition of each Article in its refpedtive Seafon. 
 
 TOGETHER WITH 
 
 ) 
 
 DIRECTIONS FOR MARKETING, 
 
 AND THE 
 
 MANAGEMENT OF THE KITCHEN AND FRUIT-GARDEN, 
 
 The Whole formed on fo NEW a PLAN, that the Inexperienced will be 
 inftrudted, and the profdTed Cook receive that Information which 
 has never been made known by any preceding Publication. 
 
 THE SIXTH EDITION. 
 
 By WILLIAM AUGUSTUS HENDERSON, 
 
 IVbo has made the Culinary Art his Study for upwards of Forty Years. 
 
 LONDON: PRINTED AND SOLD BY W. AND J. STRATFORD, 
 No. iiz, HOLBQRN-HIIm'L, 
 
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( 3 } 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 T N the primitive ages of the world, when the pre- 
 *■* fervation of human exigence was fupported only by 
 the fimple and fpontaneous productions of Nature, 
 Mankind were totally unacquainted with every mode 
 which has been fince difeovered and adopted for the 
 gratification of fenfual indulgence. As time advanced, 
 the people became more difperfed, and nations were 
 formed in different parts of the known world, fo im¬ 
 provement took place as well in the Art of Cookery , 
 as in the common tranfaclions of life. Every age 
 contributed, by additional invention, to the increafe of 
 this material and gratifying enjoyment, till at length 
 thofe articles, which were limply ufed in their natural 
 ftate, became refined, and were rendered, by art, not 
 only pleafmg, but delicioufly grateful to the palate. 
 The means of acquiring fuch indulgence for the fubjeCt 
 of this work, which the writer has, for a great number 
 of years made it his ftudy to obtain, and which, he 
 flatters himfelf, will be found fo accurate, clear, and 
 concife, as to render every perfon, who follows the 
 directions given, fo profeffed a Cook, as to produce 
 reputation to themfelves, by giving the molt ample 
 fatisfaclion to thofe for whom they provide.. 
 
 In the execution of this performance, we fhall pro¬ 
 ceed in regular gradation to deferibe the method of 
 
 properly 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 properly drefiing every kind of provifion, as Fifh, 
 Fle/li, Foivl, &c. to all of which we {hall fubjoin the 
 manner of providing their refpeftive Sauces, as alfo the 
 proper mode of Carving each Joint, Bird, ’or Fifh, 
 with Neatnefs and Dexterity; fo that the Hcufewife 
 will not only be complete MIftrefs of The Whole Art of 
 Cookery , but may alfo acquit herfelf at the table with 
 Honour and Reputation, 
 
 We fhall only farther obferve, that this very ample 
 Cohesion (which, exclufive of the common courfe 
 of provifions) will contain every thing yet invented 
 for the gratification of the appetite, is prefented to the 
 public as the moft complete in its nature ever yet 
 formed, the whole being the produce of time, ftudy, 
 and experience. As fuch we lay it before our Readers, 
 not doubting but our labours will be rewarded by the 
 advantages they will receive from being perfectly ac¬ 
 quainted with a complete knowledge of the Culinary 
 Art in all its refpective Branches. 
 
 The receipts for each article are formed on fo 
 cafy and “cheap a Plan, as to be within the Purchafe of 
 all ranks of People. 
 
 N. B. A Copious Index alfo is added, whereby 
 the Reader may, with eafe immediately refer to any 
 Article in this valuable Colle&ion, 
 
 THE 
 
 o-. 
 
 
( 5 ) 
 
 THE 
 
 HOUSEKEEPER'S INSTRUCTOR; 
 
 O R, 
 
 UNIVERSAL FAMILY COOK. 
 
 CHAP. I. 
 
 SOUPS and BROTHS. 
 
 A S a proper mode is the fird and mod judicious 
 dep that can be taken in the difplay of any fub- 
 je£t, fo we fhall commence our Work with a particular 
 defcription of the manner of making all kinds of Soups 
 and Broths, thofe articles, in the Art of Cookery being, 
 at mod entertainments, whether of a public or private 
 nature, fird brought upon the table. 
 
 To acquire reputation, and give fatisfadlion to thole 
 for whom any kind of provifion is drefied, the fird grand 
 confideration of the Cook Ihould be a particular attach¬ 
 ment to cleanlinefs, and this more immediately in the 
 proper care of all vefiels wherein fuch provifion is to be 
 drefied. They mud be kept properly tinned, and, as 
 foon as poffible, after being ufed, well cleaned, and 
 placed, with their covers on, in fome fituatioa adapted 
 for the purpofe. Previous to their being again ufed, 
 examine them very dridtly, and be careful that they are 
 totally free from every kind of greafe, or any particles of 
 fand, which will be too apt to fecret themfelves in un- 
 obferved cavities of the vedels. To avoid this, rub the 
 palm of your hand all round, with the ends of your 
 fingers in the cavities, and if any fand is left it will dick 
 to the flefh, which will naturally draw it out. After 
 
 this 
 
6 SOUPS. 
 
 this wipe it all round with a clean cloth, and you 
 may be pretty well fatisfied it is thoroughly cleanled for 
 life. The pains you have taken in this firfl degree of 
 care will be amply repaid by the articles you cook being, 
 if properly managed according to the rules here laid 
 down, brought to table in the higheft (late of perfection. 
 
 As a neceffary prelude to the making of Soups and 
 Broths, we fhall introduce a few general obfervations, 
 which we recommend as deferving the particular notice 
 and attention of the cook. 
 
 When you make any kind of Soups, more efpecially 
 portable, vermicelli, or brown gravy Soup, or, indeed, 
 any other that has roots or herbs in it, always obferve to 
 lay the meat at the bottom of your pan, with a good 
 lump of butter. Cut the herbs and roots fmail, lay them 
 over the meat, cover it clofe, and fet it over a flow fire : 
 this will draw all the virtue out of the roots or herbs, 
 turn it to a good gravy, and give the Soup a different 
 flavour from what it would have on putting the water 
 in at firft. As loon as you find the gravy is nearly dried 
 up, then fill the faucepan with water, and when it begins 
 to boil fkim off the fat, and purfue the directions given 
 for the Soup intended to be made. In making Peafe 
 Soup obferve, that if they are old you muft ufe foft 
 'water; but if green, hard or fpring water, as it will 
 greatly contribute to the prefervation of their colour. 
 One principal thing to be obferved in making all kinds of 
 Soup is, that no one ingredient is more powerful in the 
 tafte than another, but that all are as nearly as poflible 
 equal, and that the Soup be reiifhed in proportion to the 
 purpoli* for which it is defigned. 
 
 Vermicelli Soup. 
 
 TAKE a knuckle of veal and a ferag of mutton, 
 from each of which cut the flefh into finall pieces about 
 the fize of walnuts, and mix them together, with five or 
 fix thin flices of lean ham. Put into the bottom of your 
 pan about four ounces of butter, and then your meat; to 
 which add three or four blades of mace, two or three car- 
 tots, two parfnips, two large onions, with a clove duck on 
 
 - ' both 
 
SOUPS. f 
 
 both Tides of each, cut in four or five heads of celery 
 walked clean, a bunch of fweet herbs, eight or ten 
 morels, and an anchovy. When your articles are thus 
 prepared and mixed together in the pan, cover it very 
 dole, and let it over a llow fire, without any water, till 
 the gravy is drawn out of the meat. When this is done, 
 pour it out into a pot or large bafon; then let the meat 
 brown (taking care that it does not burn) .and put into 
 the faucepan four quarts of water. Let the whole boil 
 gently till it is wafted to three pints, then ftrain it, and 
 mix with it the firft gravy drawn from the meat. Set it 
 on the fire, and add two ounces of vermicelli, a nice 
 head of celery cut fmall, chyan pepper and fait to your 
 tafte, and let the whole boil about fix minutes. Lay a 
 fmall French roll in the Soup difh, pour the Soup upon 
 it, ftrew Tome of the vermicelli on the furface, and then 
 ferve it to table. 
 
 Soup a la Reins. 
 
 TAKE a knuckle of veal, and three or four pounds 
 of lean beef, to which put in fix quarts of water, with a 
 little fait. When it boils take off the fcum quite clean, 
 then put in fix large onions, two carrots, a head or two 
 of celery, a parfnip, one leak, and a little thyme. Let 
 the whole ftew together till the meat is quite boiled 
 down, then ftrain it through a hair fieve, and after it has 
 flood about half an hour, fkim it well, and clear it, 
 off gently from the fellings into a clean pan. Boil 
 half a pint of cream, and pour it on the crumb of a 
 fmall loaf till the whole is loaked in. Take half a 
 pound of almonds, blanch and beat them as fine as pof- 
 fible, putting in now and then a little cream to prevent 
 them from boiling. Then take the yolks of fix hard 
 eggs, beat them with the loaf foaked in the cream, and 
 mix the whole together. Put your broth again into 
 the faucepan, and when hot pour it to your almonds. 
 Strain it through a fine hair fieve, rubbing it with a 
 fpoon till all the virtues and flavour are extracted. Put 
 the whole into the faucepan, adding a little more cream 
 
 to 
 
S SOUPS. 
 
 to make it white. Set it over the fire, keep ftirring it 
 till it boils, and fkim off the froth as it rifes. In the 
 mean time foak the tops of two French rolls in melted 
 butter in a ftewpan till they are crifp, but not brown; 
 then take them out of the butter, and lay them in a place 
 before the fire. After remaining there a fhort time put 
 them at the bottom of the tureen, pouring to them a 
 fmall quantity of the Soup. When your Soup has been 
 thoroughly fkimmed from froth, and is juft ready to boil, 
 then take it off, pour it into the tureen, and lerve it hot 
 to table.—In making this Soup, particular care muft be 
 taken that no fat be on the furface of the broth at the 
 time it is poured upon the almonds, otherwife the whole 
 will be fpoiled. 
 
 Soup Crejjy. 
 
 CUT a pound of lean ham into fmali bits, and put 
 at the bottom of a ftew-pan, with a French roll cut in 
 flices, and laid on the top. Take two dozen heads of 
 celery cut fmall, fix onions, two turnips, one carrot, 
 fix cloves, four blades of mace, and two bunches of 
 water-creffes. Put them all in a ftew-pan, with a pint 
 of good broth. Cover them clofe, and let them fweat 
 gently for about twenty minutes, after which fill it up 
 with veal broth, and ftew it four hours. When this is 
 done ftrain it through a fine fieve or cloth, and put it 
 again into the laucepan, feafoning it with fait and a 
 little chyan pepper. As foon as it is fimmered up pour 
 it into the tureen, putting in fome French roll toafted 
 hard. 
 
 Tranfparent Soup. 
 
 CUT off the meat from a leg of veal as clean as you 
 can, after which break the bone in fmall pieces. Put 
 the meat into a large jug, with the bones at top, and add 
 to it a bunch of iweet-herbs, a quarter of an ounce of 
 mace, half a pound of blanched almonds, and pour in 
 four quarts of boiling water. Set it over a (low fire, 
 clofe covered, and let it ftand all night. The next day 
 take it out of the jug, put it into a clean faucepan, and 
 
SOUPS. 9 
 
 let it boil fiowly till it is reduced to two quarts. During 
 the time it boils, be particularly careful to take off all 
 the feum and fat. Strain it into a large bowl, and when 
 you think the flefh is perfedly fettled at the bottom, fo 
 that no fediment can intermix with the foup, put it into 
 a clean faucepan, and intermix with it three or four 
 ounces of boiled rice, or two ounces of vermicelli, which 
 you like belt. When it has boiled about a quarter of 
 an hour, pour it into the tureen, and ferve it to table. 
 
 Almond Soup. 
 
 TAKE a quart of almonds, and beat them in a 
 marble mortar, with the yolks of fix hard eggs, till they 
 become a fine pafte. Mix them by degrees with two 
 quarts of new milk, a quart of cream, and a quarter of 
 a pound of double-refined fugar, beat fine, and ftir the 
 whole well together. When it is properly mixed, fet ic 
 over a (low fire, and keep it ftirring quick till you find 
 it of a good thicknefs: then take it off, pour it into 
 your difh, and ferve it up. The principal care to be 
 obferved in making this foup is to prevent its curdling, 
 which can only be done by keeping it conftantly ftirring 
 till it boils. 
 
 Soup Sante , or Gravy Soup . 
 
 TAKE a pound and a half of lean ham cut in 
 fiices, and put them in the bottom of the ftew-pan, 
 with about two ounces of butter under them. Over the 
 ham put three pounds of lean beef, and over the beef 
 the fame quantity of lean veal. Put in fix onions Cut iri 
 fiices, two carrots, and two turnips diced, two heads of 
 celery, a bunch of fweet-herbs, fix cloves, and two 
 blades of mace. Let there be a little water at the bottom, 
 and when you have gently drawn it till it fticks, put in 
 a gallon of boiling water. Let it (lew gently for two 
 hours; feafon with fait and chyan pepper, and ftrain it 
 clear off. Have ready a carrot cut in thin pieces about 
 two inches in length, a turnip, two heads of leaks, two of 
 celery, two of endive cut acrofs, two cabbage lettuces cut 
 in the fame manner, with a little forrel and chervil. Put 
 I. B theie 
 
10 SOUPS. 
 
 thefe into a (lew-pan, and fweat them over the fire for 
 about fifteen minutes; then put them into your foup. 
 Set the whole over the fire, and let it boil gently about a 
 quarter of an hour 3 then pour it into your tureen, with 
 the cruft of a French roil on the top, and fend it to 
 table. 
 
 Soup and Bouille. 
 
 TAKE about five pounds of brifket of beef, roll it 
 up as tight as you can, and fallen it with a piece of tape. 
 Put it into a fiew-pan, with four pounds of the leg of 
 mutton piece of beef, and about two gallons of water. 
 When it boils, take oft the fcum quite clean, and put 
 in one large onion, two or three carrots, two turnips, a 
 leek, two heads of celery, fix or leven cloves, and fome 
 whole pepper. Stew the whole very gently, clofe cover¬ 
 ed for fix or feven hours. About an hour before dinner 
 drain the foup quite clear from the meat. Have ready 
 boiled carrots cut into fmall pieces refembling wheels, 
 turnips cut in balls, fpinach, a little chervil and forrel, 
 two heads of endive, and one or two of celery cut into 
 pieces. Put thefe into a tureen, with a Dutch loaf, 
 or a French roll dried, after the crumb is taken 
 out. Pour the foup to thefe boiling hot, and add 
 a little fait and chyan pepper. Take the tape from 
 the beef, or bouille, and place it in a difh by itfelf, 
 with mafhed turnips and diced carrots, each in a fe- 
 parate fmall difh, and in this manner ferve up the 
 whole. 
 
 Ox Cheek Soup . 
 
 BREAK the bones of the cheek, and after having 
 wafhed it thoroughly clean, put it into a large dew- 
 pan, with about two ounces of butter at the bottom, 
 and lay the flefhy fide of the cheek downwards. Add 
 to it about halt a pound of lean ham cut in dices. 
 Put in four heads of celery cut fmall, three large onions, 
 two carrots, one parlnip diced, and three blades of 
 mace. Set it over a moderate fire for about a quarter 
 of an hour, when the virtues of the roots will be ex- 
 
 traded 
 
SOUPS. It 
 
 trailed; after which put to it four quarts of water, and 
 let it fimmer gently till it is reduced to two. If you 
 mean to ufe it as foup only, ftrain it clear off, and put 
 in the white part of a head of celery cut in fmall pieces, 
 with a little browning to make it a fine colour. Scald 
 two ounces of vermicelli, and put into the foup, then 
 let it boil for about ten minutes, and pour it into your 
 tureen, with the cruft of a French roll, and ferve it up. 
 If it is to be ufed as a (lew, take up the cheek as whole 
 as pollible, and have ready a boiled turnip, and carrot 
 cut in fquare pieces, a flice of bread tcafted, and cut in 
 fmall dices, put in a little chyan pepper, ftrain the foup 
 through a hair fieve upon the whole, and carry it to 
 table. 
 
 Maccaroni Soup. 
 
 MIX together three quarts of ftrong broth with one 
 of gravy. Take half a pound of fmall pipe-macaroni, 
 and boil it in three quarts of water, with a little butter 
 in it till it is tender, after which ftrain it through a fieve. 
 Cut it in pieces of about two inches in length, put it 
 into your foup, and boil it up for about ten minutes. 
 Send it to table in a tureen, with the cruft of a French 
 roll toafted. 
 
 Calf’i Head Soup. 
 
 WASH the head as clean as pollible, which you 
 will the more eafily do by ftrewing a little fait on it to 
 take out the {lime. After it is thoroughly cleanfed, put 
 it into your ftew-pan, with a proper quantity of water, 
 and throw in a bunch of fweet herbs, an onion ftuck 
 with cloves, five or fix blades of mace, and fome pearl 
 barley. When it has ftewed till it is tender, put in fome 
 ftewed celery. Sealon it with pepper, pour the foup 
 into your difn, place the head in the middle, and ferve 
 it to table. 
 
 Peafe Soup in the Common Way. 
 
 PUT a quart of fplit peas into four quarts of water, 
 with fome roaft beef bones, or a little lean bacon. Add 
 one head of celery cut Imall, with three or four turnips. 
 
 B 2 Let 
 
12 SOUPS. 
 
 Let it boil gently till it is reduced to two quarts, and 
 then work it through a cullender with a wooden fpoon. 
 Mix a little flour and water well together, and boil them 
 in the foup. Add another head of celery, with chyan 
 pepper and fait to your tafle. Cut a flice of bread in 
 dice, fry them a light brown, and put them into your 
 difhj after which pour in the foup, and ferve it up. 
 
 White Peafe Soup. 
 
 TAKE four or five pounds of lean beef, and put 
 it into fix quarts of water, with a little fait. When it 
 boils fcum it clean, and put in two carrots, three whole 
 onions, a little thyme, and two heads of celery. When 
 you have done this put in three quarts of peale, and 
 boil them with the meat till the latter is quite tender: 
 then ftrain the foup through a hair fieve, at the fame 
 time rubbing the pulp of the peafe fo as to extract all 
 their virtue. Split three gofs-lettuces into four quarters 
 each, and cut them about four inches in length, with a little 
 mint fhredded fmall: then put half a pound of butter in 
 a flew-pan that will hold your foup, and put the lettuce 
 and mint into the butter, with a leek fliced very thin. 
 Stew them a quarter of an hour, fhaking them about 
 often, and after adding a little of the foup, flew them a 
 quarter of an hour longer: then put in your foup, and 
 as much thick cream as will make it white ; keep ftirring 
 it till it boils, fry a French roll in butter a little crifp, 
 put in the bottom of the tureen, pour the foup over, 
 and ferve it up. 
 
 Green Peafe Soup. 
 
 CUT a knuckle of veal into thin flices, with one 
 pound of lean ham. Lay them at the bottom of a foup- 
 pot with the veal uppermoft. Then put in fix onions 
 cut in flices, with two or three turnips, two carrots, three 
 heads of ceiery cut very fmall, a little thyme, four 
 cloves, and four blades of mace. Put a little water at 
 the bottom, cover the pot clofe, and draw it gently, 
 taking particular care the meat does not ftick to the pan. 
 When it is properly drawn, put in fix quarts of boiling 
 
 water, 
 
SOUPS. 13 
 
 water, and let it flew gently four hours, fkimming it 
 well during the time. Take two quarts of peafe, and 
 ftew them in fome of the liquor till tender ; then ftrain 
 them off and beat them fine, put the liquor in, and mix 
 them up. Take a tammy, or fine cloth, and rub them 
 through till you have rubbed all the pulp out, and then 
 put your foup in a clean pot, with half a pint of fptnach 
 juice, and boil it up for about a quarter of an hour: 
 feafon with fait and a little pepper. If you think your 
 foup not thick enough, take the crumb of a French roll, 
 and boil it in a little of the foup, beat it in a mortar, and 
 rub it through your tammy, or cloth, then put it into 
 your foup, and boil it up. Pour the foup into the 
 tureen, with dice of bread toafted very hard, and ferve 
 it up. 
 
 Onion Soup. 
 
 TAKE eight or ten large Spanifh onions, and boil 
 them in milk and water till they become quite fofr, 
 changing your milk and water three times while the 
 onions are boiling. When they are quite foft rub them 
 through a hair fieve. Cut an old cock into pieces, and 
 boil it for gravy, with one blade of mace. Then ftrain 
 it, and having poured the gravy on the pulp of the 
 onions, boil it gently, with the crumb of a ftale penny 
 loaf grated into half a pint of cream, and feafon it to 
 your tafte with fait and chyan pepper. When you ferve 
 it up, grate a cruft of brown bread round the edge of 
 the difh.—It will contribute much to the delicacy of the 
 flavour, if you add a little ftewed lpinach, or a few heads 
 of afparagus. 
 
 Milk Soup. 
 
 TAKE two quarts of new milk, and put into it 
 two fticks of cinnamon, two bay leaves, a fmall quan¬ 
 tity of bafket fait, and a little ftigar. While thefe are 
 heating, blanch half a pound of fweet almonds, and beat 
 them up to a parte in a marble mortar. Mix fome milk 
 with them by a little at a time, and while they are heat¬ 
 ing, grate fome lemon-peel with the almonds, and a 
 little of the juice 5 after which ftrain it through a coarfe 
 
 fieve 5 
 
j4 SOUPS. 
 
 fieve; mix all together, and let it boil up. Cut Tome 
 dices of French bread, and dry them before the fire; 
 foak them a little in the milk, lay them at the bottom of 
 the tureen, pour in the foup, and ferve it up. 
 
 Rice Soup. 
 
 PUT a pound of rice and a little cinnamon into 
 two quarts o c water. Cover it clofe, and let it fimmer 
 very gently till the rice is quite tender. Take out the 
 cinnamon, then fweeten it to your palate; grate into it 
 half a nutmeg, and let it ftand till it is cold. Then beat 
 up the yolks of .three eggs, with half a pint of white wine; 
 mix them well together, and ftir them into the rice. Set 
 the whole on a flow fire, and keep ftirring it all the time, 
 left it fhould curdle. When it is of a good thicknefs, 
 and boils, take it up, and keep ftirring it till you pour it 
 into your difh. 
 
 Scotch Barley Broth . 
 
 TAKE a leg of beef cut into pieces, and boil it in 
 three gallons of water, with a diced carrot and a cruft 
 of bread. Let it continue boiling till reduced to one 
 half. Then ftrain it off, and put it again into the pot, 
 with half a pound of barley, four or five heads of celery 
 cut fmall, a bunch of fweet herbs, a large onion, a little 
 parfiey chopped fmall, and a few marigolds. When this 
 has been boiled an hour, put in a large fowl, and let it 
 continue boiling till the broth is quite good. Seafon it 
 with fait to your tafte, take out the onion and fweet- 
 herbs, and fend it to table with the fowl in the middle. 
 The fowl may be ufed or omitted, according to your 
 own difcretion, as the broth will be exceeding good with¬ 
 out it. 
 
 Inftead of a leg of beef, fome make this broth with a 
 fheep’s head, which muft be chopped all to pieces. 
 Others ufe thick flank oft beef, in which cafe fix pounds 
 muft be boiled in fix quarts of water. Put in the barley 
 with the meat, and boil it very gently for an hour, 
 keeping it clear from fcum. Then put in the before- 
 mentioned ingredients, with turnips and carrots clean 
 fcraped and pared, and cut into fmall pieces. Boil all 
 
 together 
 
SOUPS. 15 
 
 together fofdy till you find the broth very good, and fea- 
 fon it to your palate. Then take it up, pour the broth 
 into your difh or tureen, put the beef in the middle, with 
 carrots and turnips round the difh, and fend it hot to 
 table.—This is a very comfortable repaft, more particu¬ 
 larly in cold and fevere weather. 
 
 Soup Lorraine. 
 
 TAKE a pound of almonds, blanch them, and beat 
 them in a fine mortar, with a very little water to keep 
 them from oiling. Then take all the white part of a 
 large roafted fowl, with the yolks of four poached eggs, 
 and pound all together as fine as poflible. Take three 
 quarts of flrong veal broth, let it be very white, and all 
 the fat clean fkimmed off. Pour it into a fiew-pan with 
 the other ingredients, and mix them well together. Boil 
 them gently over a flow fire, and mince the white part of 
 another fowl very fine. Seafon it with pepper, fait, nut¬ 
 meg, and a little beaten mace. Put in a bit of butter 
 about the fize of an egg, with a fpoonful or two of the foup 
 (trained, and fet it over the fire to be quite hot. Cut 
 two French rolls into thin flices, and fet them before the 
 fire to crifp. Then take one of the hollow loaves which 
 are made for oyfters, and fill it with the minced fowl: 
 clofe the roll as neat as poflible, and keep it hot. Strain 
 the foup through a very fine fieve into a clean faucepan* 
 and let it flew till it is of the thicknefs of cream. Put 
 the crifped bread into the difh or tureen, pour the foup 
 over it, place the roll with the minced meat in the mid¬ 
 dle, and ferve it up. 
 
 Soup Maigre. 
 
 PUT half a pound of butter into a deep ftew-pan, 
 (hake it about, and let it (land till it has done making 
 a noife; then throw in fix middle-fized onions, pealed 
 and cut fmall, and fhake them about. Take a bunch 
 of celery, clean wafhed and picked, cut it into pieces 
 about half an inch in length; a large handful of fpinach 
 clean wafhed and picked, a good lettuce (if it can be 
 got) cut fmall, and a bundle of parfiey chopped fine. 
 Snake all thefe well together in the pan for a quarter of 
 
 an 
 
i6 SOUPS, 
 
 an hour, and then drew in a little flour: flir all toge¬ 
 ther in the ftew-pan, and put in two quarts of water. 
 Throw in a handful of hard dry cruft, with about a quar¬ 
 ter of an ounce of ground pepper, and three blades of 
 mace beat fine. Stir all together, and let it boil gently 
 for about half an hour: then take it off, beat up the 
 yolks of two eggs, and ftir them in with one fpoon- 
 ful of vinegar. Pour the whole into a foup-difh, and 
 fend it to table.—If the feafon of the year will admit, a 
 pint of green peafe boiled in the foup will be a material 
 addition. 
 
 Gib let Soup. 
 
 TAKE four pounds of gravy beef, two pounds of 
 fcrag of mutton, and two pounds of a fcrag of veal. Put 
 thefe into a faucepan with two gallons of water, and let 
 them ftew very gently till the broth begins to have a good 
 tafte. Then pour it out, let it ftand till it is cold, and 
 flam off all the fat. Take two pair of giblets well fcalded 
 and cleaned, put them into the broth, and let them fim- 
 mer till they are very tender. Take out the giblets, and 
 ftrain the foup through a cloth. Put a piece of butter 
 rolled in flour into your ftew-pan, and make it of a light 
 brown. Have ready, chopped fmall, fome parfley, chives, 
 a little penny-royal, and a fmall quantity of fweet marjo¬ 
 ram. Place the foup over a very flow fire; put in the 
 giblets, fried butter, herbs, a little Madeira wine, fome 
 lalt, and chyan pepper. Let them fimmer till the herbs 
 are tender, and then fend the foup to table with the gib¬ 
 lets intermixed. 
 
 Hodge Podge . 
 
 TAKE a pound of beef, a pound of veal, and a 
 pound of fcrag of mutton. Cut the beef into fmall 
 pieces, and put the whole into a faucepan, with two 
 quarts of water. Take an ounce of barley, an onion, 
 a fmall bundle of fweet-herbs, three or four heads of 
 celery walked clean and cut fmall, a little mace, two 
 or three cloves, and fome whole pepper, tied all in a 
 piece of cloth; and throw into the pot with the meat, 
 three turnips pared and cut in two, a large carrot fcraped 
 
 clean, 
 
SOUPS. 17 
 
 dean, and cut in fix pieces, and a fmall lettuce. Cover 
 the pot clofe, and let it flew very gently for five or fix 
 hours; then take out the fpice, fweet-herbs, and onion, 
 pour all into a foup di(h, feafon it with fait, and fend it 
 to table. 
 
 Cow Heel Soup. 
 
 TAKE four pounds of lean mutton, three of bee£ 
 and two of veal; cut them acrofs, and put them into a 
 'pot, with an old fowl, and four or five flices of lean 
 ham. Let thefe ftew without any liquor over a very 
 flow fire, but be careful they do not burn to the t pot. 
 As foon as you find the meat begin to flick to the 
 bottom, ftir it about, and put in fome good beef broth 
 clear of all the fat: then put in fome turnips, carrots, and 
 celery Cut fmall, a bunch of fweet-herbs, and a bay 
 leaf; then add fome more clear broth, and let it flew 
 about an hour. While this is doing, take a cow-heel, 
 fplit it, and fet it on to boil in fome of the fame broth. 
 When it is very tender take it off, and fet on a ftew-pan 
 with fome crufts of bread, and fome more broth, and 
 let it foak eight or ten minutes. When the foup is 
 ftewed till it taftes rich, lay the crufts in a tureen, and 
 the two halves of the cow-heel upon them. Then pour 
 in the foup, feafon it to your palate, and ferve it to 
 table. 
 
 White Soup. 
 
 TAKE a knuckle of veal, a large fowl, and a pound 
 ©f lean bacon: put thefe into a faucepan with fix quarts 
 of water: add half a pound of rice, two anchovies, a 
 few pepper corns, a bundle of l'weet herbs, two or three 
 onions, and three or four heads of celery cut in flices. 
 Stew them all together, till the foup is as ftrong as you 
 would have it, and then (train it through a hair lieve 
 into a clean earthen pan. Let it (land all night, and 
 the next day take off the fcum very clean, and pour the 
 liquor into a ftew-pan. Put in half a pound of fweet 
 almonds beat fine, boil it for about a quarter of an hour, 
 and (train it through a lawn fieve. Then put in a pint 
 ©f cream, with the volk of an egg, ftir all together, let 
 I. , C it 
 
!$ SOUPS. 
 
 it boil a few minutes, then pour it into your tureen, and 
 ferve it up. 
 
 Gravy Soup. 
 
 TAKE a fhin of beef, with the bone well chopped, and 
 put it into your faucepan with fix quarts of water, a pint 
 of peafe, and fix onions. Set it over the fire, and let it 
 boil gently till the juices of the meat arc drawn out: the® 
 ftrain the liquor through a lieve, and add to it a quart of 
 ftrong beef broth. Stafon it to your tafte with pepper 
 and fait, and put in a little celery and beet leaves; and 
 when it has boiled till the vegetables are tender, pour it 
 into a tureen, and take it to table. 
 
 Hare Soup. 
 
 CUT a large hare into pieces, and put it into an 
 earthen mug, with three blades of mace, two large onions, 
 a little fait, a red-herring, half a dozen large morels, a 
 pint of red wine, and three quarts of water. Bake it 
 three hours in a quick oven, and then {train the liquor 
 into a ftew-pan. Have ready boiled four ounces of French 
 barley, and put in; juft leak! the liver, and rub it through 
 a fieve with a wooden lpoon; put it into the foup, fet it 
 over the fire, but do not let it boil. Keep it ftirring till 
 it is on the brink of boiling, and then take it off. Put 
 fome crifped bread into your tureen, and pour the foup 
 into it.-This is a moft delicious rich foup, and cal¬ 
 
 culated for large entertainments. If any other kind of 
 foup is provided, this fhould be placed at the bottom of 
 the table. 
 
 Partridge Soup. 
 
 TAKE two large old patridges, fkin them, and cut 
 them into pieces, with three or four flices of ham, a 
 little celery, and three large onions cut in flices. Fry 
 them in butter till they are brown, but be fure you do 
 not let them burn. Then put them into a ftew-pan, 
 with three quarts of boiling water, a few pepper corns, 
 and a little fait. After it has fiewed gently for two hours, 
 (train it through a fieve, put it again into your ftew-pan, 
 with fome (tewed celery and fried bread. When it 
 
 is 
 
SOUPS. 19 
 
 is near boiling, pour it into your tureen, and ferve it up 
 hot. 
 
 Cray Fijli Soup. 
 
 BOIL an hundred frefh Cray fi(h, as alfo a fine lobfter, 
 and pick the meat clean out of each. Pound the (hells 
 of both in a mortar till they are very fine, and boil them 
 in four quarts of water, with four pounds of mutton, a 
 pint of green fplit peas nicely picked and washed, a large 
 turnip, a carrot, an onion, mace, cloves, an anchovy, 
 a iittle thyme, pepper, and fait. Stew them on a flow 
 fire till all the goodnefs is out of the mutton and (hells j 
 then drain it through a fleve, and put in the meat of 
 your cray-fi(h and lobfter, but let them be cut into very 
 final! pieces, with the red coral of the lobfter, if it has 
 any. Boil it half an hour, and juft before you ferve it 
 up, add a little butter melted thick and fmooth: ftir it 
 round when you put it in, and let it fimrner very gently 
 about ten minutes. Fry a French roll nice and brown, 
 lay it in the middle of the difih, pour the foup on it, and 
 ferve it up hot. 
 
 Eel Soup. 
 
 TAKE a pound of eels, which will make a pint of 
 good foup, or any greater weight, in proportion to the 
 quantity of foup you intend to make. To every pound 
 of eels put a quart of water, a cruft of bread, two or three 
 blades of mace, a little whole pepper, an onion, and a 
 bunch of fweet-herbs. Cover them clofe, and let them 
 boil till half the liquor is wafted: then (train it, and toaft: 
 fiome bread; cut it fmall, lay the bread in your di(h, and 
 pour in the foup.—This foup is very ballamic, and par¬ 
 ticularly nutricious to weak conftitutions. 
 
 Oyjler Soup. 
 
 TAKE a pound of (hate, four or five flounders, and 
 tv/o eels; cut them into pieces, juft cover them with 
 water, and feafon with mace, an onion (tuck with cloves, 
 a head of celery, two parfley roots diced, fome pepper 
 and fait, and a bunch of fweet-herbs. Cover them down 
 clofe, and after they have fimmered about an hour and 
 a half, drain dve liquor clear off, and put it into a 
 
 C 2 clean 
 
20 SOUPS. 
 
 dean faucepan. In the mean time take a quart of oyfte s 
 bearded, and beat them in a mortar with the yolks of fix 
 eggs boiled hard. Seafon it with pepper, fait, and grated 
 nutmeg; and when the liquor boils, put all into it. Let 
 the whole boil till it becomes of the thicknefs of cream, 
 then take it off, pour it into your tureen, and ferce it to 
 table, 
 
 Mutton Broth. 
 
 TAKE a neck of mutton about fix pounds, cut it in 
 two, boil the fcrag part in a gallon of water, fkim it well, 
 and then put in a fmall bundle of fweet herbs, an onion, 
 and a good crufl of bread. When the fcrag has boiled 
 about an hour, put in the other part of the mutton, and 
 about a quarter of an hour before the meat is done, put 
 in a turnip or two, fome dried marigolds, a few chives 
 with parfley chopped fmall, and feafon it with fait. You 
 may at firft put in a quarter of a pound of barley or 
 rice, which both thickens it and contributes a grateful 
 flavour. Some like it thickened with oatmeal, and fome 
 with bread; and, infbead of fweet-herbs and onion, feafon 
 it with macej but this is mere fancy, and determined by 
 the different palates of different people. If you boil 
 turnips as lauce to the meat, let it be done by themfelves, 
 ©therwife the flavour, by being too powerful, will injure 
 the broth, 
 
 Beef Broth. 
 
 TAKE a leg of beef with the bone well cracked, 
 wafh it thoroughly clean, and put it into your pot with a 
 gallon of water. Scum it w'ell, and put in two or three 
 blades of mace, a fmall bunch of parfley, and a large 
 cruft of bread. Let it boil till the beef and finews are 
 quite tender. Cut fome toafted bread, and put into 
 your tureen, then lay in the meat, and pour the foup all 
 over. 
 
 Beef Drink. 
 
 ■ TAKE a pound and a half of lean beef, cut it into 
 fmall pieces, and put it into a gallon of water, with the 
 under cruft of a penny loaf, and a little fait. Let it boil 
 till it is reduced to two quarts, then ftrain it off, and it 
 
 will 
 
SOUPS. 21 
 
 will be very good drink.—Obferve, that when you firft 
 put the meat into the water, that it is clear of all fkin and 
 fat. 
 
 Strong Beef Broth to keep, 
 
 TAKE part of a leg of beef, and the fcrag end of a 
 neck of mutton. Break the bones well of each, and put 
 to it as much water as will cover it, with a little fait. 
 "When it boils Ikim it clean, and put to it a large onion 
 ftuck with cloves, a bunch of fweet herbs, fome pepper, 
 and a nutmeg quartered. Let thefe boil till the virtues 
 of the mace are drawn out, then ftrain the foup through 
 a fine fieve, and keep it for ufe. 
 
 Veal Broth. 
 
 STEW a knuckle of veal in about a gallon of water, 
 put in two ounces of rice or vermicelli, a little fait, and a 
 blade of mace. When the meat is thoroughly boiled, and 
 the liquor reduced to about one half, it will be very good, 
 and fit for ufe. 
 
 Chicken Broth. 
 
 SKIN a large old fowl, cut off the fat, break the fowl 
 to pieces, and put it into two quarts of water, with a good 
 cruft of bread, and a blade of mace. Let it boil gently 
 five or fix hours; then pour off all the liquor, put a quart 
 more boiling water to it, and cover it clofe: let it boil 
 foftly till it is good, then ftrain it off, and feafon it with a 
 little fait. In the mean time boil a chicken, and fave the 
 liquor; and when the flefii is eat, take the bones, break 
 them, and put them to the liquor in which you boiled the 
 chicken, with a blade of mace, and a cruft of bread. When 
 the juice of the bones are extracted, ftrain it off, mix it 
 with the other liquor, and fend it to table. 
 
 Spring Broth. 
 
 TAKE a cruft of bread, and about a quarter of a 
 pound of frefh butter; put them into a foup-pot, or 
 ilew-pan, with a good quantity of herbs, as beet, forrel, 
 ehervil, lettuce, leeks, and purflain, all wafhed clean, 
 and coarfely chopped. Put to them a quart of water, 
 and let them ftew till it is reduced to one halfj when it 
 
 will 
 
25 SOUPS. 
 
 will be fit for ufe.—This is an excellent purifier of the 
 blood. 
 
 Plumb Porridge to keep . 
 
 TAKE a leg and a fhin of beef, put them into eight 
 gallons of water, and boil them till the meat is quite 
 tender. When the broth is ftrong, ftrain it off, (hake 
 out the meat, and put the broth again into the pot. Slice 
 fix penny loaves thin, cutting off the tops and bottoms, 
 
 { jut fome of the liquor to them, cover them over, and 
 et them foak for a quarter of an hour; then boil and 
 ftrain it, and put it into your pot. When the whole has 
 boiled a fhort time, put in five pounds of ftewed raifins 
 of the fun, and two pounds of prunes. After it has 
 boiled a quarter of an hour, put in five pounds of cur¬ 
 rants clean walked and picked. Let thefe boil till they 
 1'well, and then put in three quarters of an ounce of mace, 
 half an ounce of cloves, and two nutmegs, all beat fine. 
 Before you put thele into the pot, mix them with a 
 little cold liquor, and put them in but a fhort time before 
 the whole is done. W hen you take off the pot, put in 
 three pounds of fugar, a little fait, a quart of fack, a 
 quart of claret, and the juice of two or three lemons. If 
 you think proper, inftead of bread you may thicken it with 
 fago. Pour your porridge into earthen pans and keep it 
 for ufe. 
 
 Mock Turtle Soup. 
 
 SCALD a calf’s head with the (kin on, and take off 
 the horny part, which mud be cut into pieces about two 
 inches fquare. Let thefe be well w'afhed and cleaned, 
 then dry them in a cloth, and put them into a ftew-pan, 
 with four quarts of water made as follows: Take fix or 
 feven pounds of beef, a calf’s foot, a (bank of ham, an 
 onion, two carrots, a turnip, a head of celery, fome 
 cloves and whole pepper, a bunch of fweet herbs, a little 
 lemon-peel, and a few truffles. Put thefe into eight 
 quarts of water, and let it (lew gently till the broth is 
 reduced one half; then ftrain it off, and put it into the 
 ftew-pan, with the horny parts of the calf’s head. Add 
 fome knotted marjoram, a little favory, thyme, and 
 
 parfley. 
 
SOUPS. 23 
 
 parfley, all chopped frnall together, with fome cloves 
 and mace pounded, a little chyan pepper, lome green 
 onions, a lhalot cut fine, a few chopped mufhrooms, 
 and half a pint of Madeira wine. Stew all thefe toge¬ 
 ther gently till the foup is reduced to two quarts; then 
 heat a little broth, mix fome flour fmooth in it, with 
 the yolks of two eggs, and keep it ftirring over a gentle 
 fire till it is near boiling. Add this to the foup, keeping 
 it ftirring as you pour it in, and let them all ftew toge¬ 
 ther for another hour. . When you take it off the fire, 
 fqueeze in the juice of half a lemon, and half an orange, 
 and throw in fome broiled forcemeat ball. Pour the 
 whole into your tureen, and ferve it hot up to- table. 
 —This is a rich foup, and to moft palates delicioufly 
 gratifying. 
 
 Portable Soup . 
 
 THIS foup (which is particularly calculated for the ufe 
 and convenience of travellers, from its not receiving any 
 injury by time,) muft be made in the following manner. 
 Cut into frnall pieces three large legs of veal, one of beef^ 
 and the lean part of a ham. Put^a quarter of a pound 
 of butter at the bottom of a large cauldron, then lay in 
 the meat and bones, with four ounces of anchovies, and 
 two ounces of mace. Cut off the green leaves of five or 
 fix heads of celery, walla the heads quite clean, cut them 
 frnall, put them in with three large carrots cut thin, 
 cover the cauldron quite dole, and let it over a mode¬ 
 rate fire. When you find the gravy begins to draw, 
 keep taking it up till you have got it all out; then put 
 water in to cover the meat; let it on the fire again, and 
 let it boil gently for four hours; then ftrain it through a 
 hair fieve into a clean pan, till it is reduced to one part out 
 of three. Strain the gravy you draw from the meat into 
 the pan, and let it boil gently till you find it of a gluti¬ 
 nous confidence, obferving to keep fkimming off the 
 fa& clean as it riles. You muft take particular care, 
 when it is nearly enough, that it does not burn. Seafon 
 it to your tafte with chyan pepper, and pour it on flat 
 earthen difhes a quarter of an inch thick. Let it ftand 
 till the next day, and then cut it out bv round tins a 
 
 little 
 
24 SOUPS. 
 
 little larger than a crown piece. Lay the cakes in difheSj, 
 and fet them in the fun to dry, to facili ate which turn 
 them often. When the cakes are dry put them into a 
 tin box, with a piece of clean white paper between each, 
 and keep them in a dry place. If made in frofty weather, 
 it will be fooner formed into its proper folidity .—1 his 
 foup is not only particularly ufeful to travellers, but is 
 aifo exceeding convenient to be kept in private families; 
 for by putting one of the cakes into a fauce-pan, with 
 about a pint of water, and a little fait, a bafon of good 
 broth may be had in a few minutes. There is alfo ano¬ 
 ther great convenience in it; that by boiling a fmall quan¬ 
 tity of water with one of the cakes, it will make an excel¬ 
 lent gravy for roaft turkeys or fowls. 
 
 [In the directions given for making the refpeClive arti¬ 
 cles contained in this chapter , fuch a quantity of each in¬ 
 gredient is fo calculated , that all may be brought to table in 
 their proper Jlate of perfection. The Cook has , therefore t 
 only to objerve, that when fie provides either , to proportion 
 the proper quantity of ingredients according to the number 
 of people for whom fie provides , as in that cafe a l ttle 
 quantity may be made nolcfs good with a large , and a fmall 
 family pojjefs equal enjoyment with the mof elevated cha¬ 
 racter .— This is a guide which fiould be attended to in 
 various other articles of cookery .] 
 
 SECT, 
 
( 25 ) 
 
 CHAP. II. 
 
 » 
 
 BOILING IN GENERAL . 
 
 ; * SECT. I. 
 
 BUTCHER’S MEAT. 
 
 A S a neceffary prelude to the directions given 
 under this head, we (hall make a few neceffary, 
 and general obfervations. All meat fhould be boiled as 
 flow as poffible, but in plenty of water, which will make 
 it rife and look plump. Be careful to keep it clear from 
 fcum, and let your pot be clofe covered. If you boil it 
 fail the outfide will be hardened before the infide is warm, 
 and the meat will be difagreeably dilcoloured. A leg of 
 veal of twelve pounds weight, will take three hours and. 
 a half boiling; and the flower it boils the whiter and 
 plumper it will be. 
 
 With refpecl to mutton and beef, if they are rather 
 under-done, they may be eat without being either difa- 
 greeable or unwholelome; but lamb, pork, and veal, 
 Ihould be thoroughly done, otherwife they will be ob¬ 
 noxious to the fight, and confequently ungrateful to 
 the palate. A leg of pork will take half an hour’s 
 more boiling than a leg of veal of' the fame weight; 
 but in general, when you boil beef or mutton, you may 
 allow as many quarters of an hour as the meat weighs 
 pounds. To put in the meat when the water is cold 
 muft be allowed to be the beft method, as thereby, the 
 middle gets warm before the outfide becomes hardened. 
 An hour and a half will boil a leg of lamb of four 
 pounds and a half weight.-—From thele general dire&ions, 
 it would be unneceffary to defcribe the ufual mode of 
 boiling the common joints of either mutton or beef. 
 We fhall therefore proceed to thefe articles which require 
 more particular notice. 
 
 To drefs a Calfs Heady one Half boiledy and the other baked . 
 
 AFTER having well cleanfed the head, parboil one 
 half, beat up the yolk of an egg, and rub it over the head 
 I. D with 
 
26 B O I L 1 N 6 
 
 with a feather; then ftrew over it a feafoning of pepper, 
 fait, thyme, parfley chopped fmall, fhred lemon-peel, 
 grated bread, and a little nutmeg ; ftick bits of butter 
 over it, and fend it to the oven. Boil the other half 
 white in a cloth, and put them both into a difh. Boil 
 the brains in a piece of clean cloth, with a very little 
 parfley, and a leaf or two of fage. When they are 
 boiled chop them fmall, and warm them up in a fauce- 
 pan, with a bit of butter, and a little pepper and fait. 
 Lay the tongue, boiled and peeled, in the middle of a 
 fmall difh, and the brains round it; have in another difh, 
 bacon or pickled pork; and in a third, greens and 
 carrots. 
 
 Grafs Lamb . 
 
 WHATEVER the number of pounds is that the joint. 
 weighs, fo many quarters of an hour mult it boil. 
 When done, ferve it up with fpinach, carrots, cabbage, 
 or brocoli. 
 
 A Ham. 
 
 PUT your ham into a copper of cold water, and when 
 it boils, take care that it boils flowly. A ham of twenty 
 pounds weight will take four hours and a half boiling; 
 and fo in proportion for one of a larger or fmaller fize. 
 An old and large ham will require fixteen hours loaking 
 in a large tub of loft water; but a green one does not 
 require any foaking. Be fure, while your ham is boil¬ 
 ing, to keep the water clear from feum. When you 
 take it up, pull off the fkin, and rub ft all over with an 
 egg, ftrew on crumbs of bread, bafte it with a little but¬ 
 ter, and fet it to the fire till it is of a light brown. 
 
 Another Way of boiling a Ham. 
 
 WITH refpeeft to its being an old ham, or a green one, 
 obferve the before-mentioned directions. Pare it round" 
 and underneath, taking care no rufty part is left. Put 
 it into a pan or pot that will properly contain it, cover it 
 with water, and put in a few cloves, thyme, and laurel 
 leaves. Let it boil on a flow fire about five hours, 
 and then add a glafs of brandy, and a pint of red wine : 
 finifh boiling in the fame manner. If it is to be ferved 
 
 up 
 
MEAT, &c. 27 
 
 up hot, take off the (kin, and ftrew it over with crumbs 
 of bread, a little parfley finely chopped, and a few bits 
 of butter, and give if a good colour either in the oven, 
 or with a falamander. If it is to be kept till cold, it will 
 be better to let the fkin remain, as it will be a means cf 
 preferving its juices. 
 
 Tongues. 
 
 IF it be a dried tongue, fteep it all night in water j 
 but if it be a pickled one, only wafh it well from the 
 brine. Let it boil moderately three hours. If it is to be 
 eat hot, flick it with cloves, rub it over with the yolk, 
 of an egg, ftrew crumbled bread over it, and, when 
 done, bafte it with butter, and let it before the fire till it 
 becomes of a light brown. Difh it up with a little brown 
 gravy, or red wine fauce, and lay flices of currant jelly 
 round the difh. 
 
 Leg of Mutton , with Cauliflowers and Spinach . 
 
 TAKE a leg of mutton cut venifon fafhion, and boil 
 it in a cloth. Boil two fine cauliflowers in milk and 
 water, pull them into fprigs, and ftew them with butter, 
 pepper, fait, and a little milk: ftew fome fpinach in a 
 faucepan, and put to it a quarter of a pint of gravy, 
 with a piece of butter, and a little flour. When all is 
 done, put the mutton in the middle of the difh, the 
 fpinach round it, and the cauliflower over all. The 
 butter the cauliflower was ftewed in muft be poured 
 over it, and it muft be made to appear like fmooth 
 cream. 
 
 Lamb's Head . 
 
 WASH the head very clean, take the black part from 
 the eyes, and the gall from the liver. Lay the head in 
 warm water; boil the lights, heart, and part of the liver. 
 Chop and flour them, and tofs them up in a faucepan 
 with fome gravy, catchup, and a little pepper, fait, lemon- 
 juice, and a fpoonful of cream. Boil the head very 
 white, lay it in the middle of the difh, and the mince¬ 
 meat round it. Place the other parts of the liver fried, 
 with fome very fmall bits of bacon on the mince-meat, 
 
 I) 2 and 
 
28 BOILING 
 
 and the brains fried in little cakes and laid on the rim 
 of the difh, with fome crifp parfley put between. Pour 
 a little melted butter over the head, and garnifh with 
 lemon. 
 
 Or you may dr e/s it thus: 
 
 BOIL the head and pluck tender, but do not let the 
 liver be too much done. Take the head up, hack it 
 crofs and crofs with a knife, grate fome nutmegover.it, 
 and lay it in a difh before a good fire. Then grate feme 
 crumbs of bread, fome fweet-herbs rubbed, a little 
 lemon-peel chopped fine, a very little pepper and fait, 
 and bafle it with a little butter; then throw a little flour 
 over it, and juft as it is done do the fame, bafle and dredge 
 it. Take half the liver, the heart, the lights and tongue, 
 chop them very finall, with about a gill of gravy or 
 water. Firft (hake fome flour over the meat, and ftir it 
 together, then put in the gravy or water a good piece of 
 butter rolled in a little flour, a little pepper and fait, and 
 what runs from the head in the difh. Simmer all toge¬ 
 ther a few minutes, and add half a fpoonful of vinegar; 
 pour it into your difh, lay the head in the middle of the 
 mince-meat, have ready the other half of the liver cut 
 thin with fome flices of bacon broiled, and lay round the 
 head. .Garnifh with lemon. 
 
 Leg of Lamb boiled , and Loin fried. 
 
 CUT your leg from the loin, and boil it three quar¬ 
 ters of an hour. Cut the loin in handfome fteaks, beat 
 them with a cleaver, and fry them a good brown. . Then 
 flew them a little in ftrong gravy. Put your leg on the 
 difh, and lay your fteaks round it. Pour on your gravy, 
 lay round lumps of ftaved fpinach and crifped parfley on 
 every fteak. Send it to table with goofeberry fauce in a 
 boat, and garnifh with lemon. 
 
 A Haunch or Neck of Venifon. 
 
 AS a necefiary preparation for either of thefe joints. 
 Jet it lay in fait for a week ; then boil it in a cloth weil 
 floured, and allow a quarter of an hour’s boiling for 
 every pound it weighs. For fauce, boil fome cauli¬ 
 flowers, pulled into little fprigs, in milk and water, 
 
 with 
 
MEAT, &c. 29 
 
 ’with fome fine white cabbage, and turnips cut in dice; 
 add l'ome beet-root cut into narrow pieces about an inch 
 and a half long, and half an inch thick. After your 
 cabbage is boiled, beat it up in a faucepan with a piece 
 of butter and fait. When your meat is done, and laid 
 in the dilb, put the cabbage next the cauliflower, 
 and then the turnips. Place the beet-root here and 
 there, according to your fancy; and have a little melted 
 butter in a cup, in cafe it fhould be wanted. This' 
 dilh is not only excellent in its quality, but particu¬ 
 larly pleafing in its appearance. If any is left, it will 
 eat well the next day, halhed, with gravy and fweet 
 fauce. 
 
 Pickled Pork. 
 
 AFTER wafhing and feraping it perfectly clean, put 
 it into the pot\with the water cold, and when the rind 
 feels tender, it is enough. The general fauce is greens, 
 among the variety of which you are to make choice to 
 your own direction. 
 
 Pig’s Pettitoes. 
 
 BOIL the feet till they are quite tender, but take 
 up the heart, liver and lights, when they have boiled 
 ten minutes, and lbred them fmall. Then take out the 
 feet and fplit them; thicken your gravy with flour and 
 butter, and put in your mince-meat, a lpoonful of 
 white wine, a flice of lemon, a little fait, and give it a 
 gentle boil. Beat the yolk of an egg j put to it two 
 fpoonsful of cream, and a little grated nutmeg. Then 
 put in the pettitoes, and fbake it over the fire till it is 
 quite hot, but do not let it boil. Put fippets into the 
 dilh, pour over the whole, and garnifh with fliced 
 lemon* 
 
 SECT. 
 
3° 
 
 BOILING 
 
 SECT. II. 
 
 BOILING POULTRY. 
 
 Turkies. 
 
 A Turkey fhould not be dreffed till three or four days 
 after being killed, as it will otherwife not boil white, 
 neither will it eat tender. When you have plucked it, 
 draw it at the rump, cut off the legs, put the ends of 
 the thighs into the body, and tie them with a firing. 
 Having cut off the head and neck, grate a penny loaf, 
 chop fine about a fcore of oyfters, (bred a little lemon- 
 peel, and put iri a fufficient quantity of fait, pepper, 
 and nutmeg. Mix thefe up into a light force-meat, 
 with a quarter of a pound of butter, three eggs, and a 
 fpoonful or two of cream. Stuff the craw of the turkey 
 with one part of this compofition ; the other muff be 
 made into balls and boiled. When you have fewed up 
 the turkey, and dredged it with flour, put it into a kettle 
 of cold water; cover it clofe, fet it over the fire, and 
 when the fcum begins to rife, take it clean off, and then 
 cover the kettle clofe. If a young one of a moderate fize. 
 Jet it boil very flowly for half an hour; then take off 
 your kettle, and let it Hand for fome time clofe covered, 
 when the fleam being confined, will fufficiently do it. 
 When you difh it up, pour a little of your oyfler fauce over 
 it, lay the force-meat balls round it, and ferve it up with 
 the reft of the fauce in a boat.—-Garnifh your difh with 
 barberries and lemon. 
 
 The beft fauces for a boiled turkey are, good oyfler 
 and celery fauce.-—Make the oyfter-fauce thus : Take a 
 pint of oyfters, ftrain the liquor from them, and beard 
 and wafh them in cold water. Pour the liquor clear off 
 into a ftew-pan, and put in the oyfters with a blade of 
 jrnace, fome butter rolled with flour, and a quarter of a 
 lemon. When they boil up, put in half a pint of cream, 
 and boil the whole gently together. Take the lemon 
 and mace out, fqueeze the juice of the lemon into the 
 fauce, and ferve it up in your boats or batons.—Make 
 
POULTRY, &c. 31 
 
 the celery fauce thus: Cut the white part of the celery 
 into pieces about an inch in length, and boil it in fome 
 water till it is tender. Then take half a pint of veal 
 broth and a blade of mace, and thicken it with a little 
 flour and butter; add half a pint of cream, and boil them 
 gently together. Put in your celery, and when it boils, 
 pour it into your boats. 
 
 Chickens. 
 
 AFTER you have drawn them, lay them in fkimmed 
 milk for two hours, and trufs them. When you have 
 properly finged, and dufted them with flour, cover them 
 clofe in cold water, and fet them over a flow fire. 
 Having taken off the fcum, and boiled them flowly five 
 or fix miuutes, take them off the fire, and keep them 
 clofe covered for half an hour in the water, which will 
 do them fufficiently, and make them plump and white. 
 Before you difli them, fet them on the fire to heat; then 
 drain them, and pour over them white fauce, which 
 you muff have made ready in the following manner: 
 
 Take the heads and necks of the chickens, with a 
 ftnall bit of fcrag of veal, or any fcraps of mutton you 
 may have by you, and put them into a faucepan, with a 
 blade or two of mace, and a few black pepper corns, an 
 anchovy, a head of celery, a flice of the end of a lemon, 
 and a bunch of fweet herbs. Put to thefe a quart of 
 water, cover it clofe, and let it boil till it is reduced to 
 half a pint. Then (train it, and thicken it with a quarter 
 of a pound of butter mixed with flour, and boil it live or 
 fix minutes. Then put in two fpoonsful of mufhrooms, 
 and mix the yolks of two eggs with a tea cup full of 
 cream, and a little nutmeg grated. Put in your fauce, 
 and keep fhaking it over the fire, till it is near boiling j 
 then pour it into your boats, and ferve it up with your 
 chickens. 
 
 Fowls. 
 
 AFTER having drawn your fowls, which you mud 
 be particularly cai etui in doing, cut off the head, neck, 
 and legs. Skewer them with the ends of their legs in 
 their bodies, and tie them round with a firing. Singe 
 
 and 
 
32 BOILING 
 
 and duft them well with flour, put them into cold 
 water, cover the kettle dole, and fet it on the fire ; 
 but take it off as foon as the fcum begins to rife.— 
 Cover them dole again, and let them boil gently twenty- 
 minutes ; then take them off, and the heat of the 
 water will do them diffidently. Melted butter with 
 parfley Hired fine is the ufual fauce ; but you may ferve 
 them up with the like lauce as before direded for 
 chickens. 
 
 Rabbits or Duels. 
 
 BOIL your duck or rabbit in a good deal of water* 
 and when the fcum rifes take it clean off. A duck will 
 take about twenty minutes, and a rabbit half an hour. 
 Melted butter and parfley is frequently ufed as fauce for 
 rabbits; but if you prefer onion fauce, which will do 
 for either, make it thus: Peel your onions and throw 
 them into water as you peel them ■, then cut them into 
 thin flices, boil them in milk and water, and fcum the 
 liquor. About half an hour will boil them. When 
 they are Efficiently boiled, put them into a clean fleve 
 to drain ; chop them, and rub them through a cullender; 
 then put them into a faucepan, and fhake a little flour, 
 with two or three fpoonsful of cream, and a good piece 
 of butter. Stew them all together till they are thick 
 and fine ; lay the duck or rabbit in a difh, and pour 
 the fauce all over. If a rabbit, you muft pluck out the 
 jaw-bones, and flick one in each eye, the ifnall end in¬ 
 wards. 
 
 Another fauce for a boiled duck may be made thus: 
 Take one large onion, a handful of parfley clean waffled 
 and picked, and a lettuce: cut the onion final], chop 
 the parfley fine, and put them into a quarter of a pint of 
 good gravy, with a fpoonful of lemon-juice, and a little 
 pepper and fait. When they have dewed together half 
 an hour, add two fpoonsful of red wine. Lay the duck 
 in your difh, and pour the lauce over it. 
 
 Pigeons. 
 
 WHEN you draw your pigeons, be careful to take out 
 the craw as clean as poflible. Wafli them in feveral 
 waters, and having cut off the pinions, turn their legs 
 
 under 
 
POULTRY, 33 
 
 under their wings. Let them boil very flowly a quarter 
 of an hour, and they will be fufficientiy done. Difti 
 them up, and pour over them good melced butter: lay 
 round the difh a little brocoli, and ferve them up with 
 melted butter and parfley in boats.—-They Ihould be 
 boiled by themfelves, and may be eaten with bacon, 
 greens, fpinach, or afparagus. 
 
 , Geefe. , 
 
 SINGEagoofe, and pour over it a quart of boiling 
 milk. Let it continue in the milk all night, then take 
 it out, and dry it welt with a cloth. Cut an onion very 
 fmall with fome lage, put them into the goofe, few it up 
 at the neck and vent, and hang it up by the legs till the 
 next day ; then put it into a pot of cold water, cover it 
 clofe, and let it boil gently for an hour. Serve it up 
 with onion fauce. 
 
 partridges. 
 
 BOIL them quick in a good deal of water, and fifk 
 teen minutes will be fufficient. For fauce, take a quar¬ 
 ter of a pint of cream, and a bit of frefn butter about the 
 fize of a walnut. Stir it one way till it is melted, and 
 then pour it over the birds. 
 
 Pheafants. 
 
 THESE muft be likewife boiled in plenty of water* 
 If it is a fmall one, half an hour will be fuffrcient, but 
 if a large one,’ three quarters. For fauce, flew fome heads 
 of celery cut very fine, thickened with cream, and a 
 fmall piece of butter rolled in flour, and leafon with fait 
 to your palate. When your bird is done, pour the 
 fauce over it, and garnifh the difh with thin flices of 
 lemon. 
 
 Snipes or Woodcocks. 
 
 SNIPES or Woodcocks muft be boiled in good 
 flrong broth, or beef gravy, which you muft make as 
 follows : Cut a pound of lean beef into fmali pieces, and 
 put it into two quarts of water, with an onion, a bundle 
 of fweet-herbs, a blade or t^o of mace, fix cloves, and 
 fome whole pepper. Cover it clofe, let it boil till it is 
 I. E half 
 
34 BOILING 
 
 hair wafted, then ftrain it off, and put the gravy into a 
 faucepan, with fait enough to feafon it. Draw the birds 
 clean, but take particular care of the guts. Put the 
 birds into the gravy, cover them clofe, and ten minutes 
 will boil them. In the mean time cut the guts and liver 
 fmalJ, then take a little of the gravy the birds are boiling 
 in, and flew the guts in it, with a blade of mace. Take 
 about as much of the crumb of bread, as the infide of a 
 roll, and rub or grate it very frnall into a clean cloth, 
 then put it into a pan with fome butter, and fry it till 
 crifp, and of a fine light brown colour. When your 
 birds are ready, take about half a pint of the liquor they 
 were boiled in, and add to the guts two fpoonsful of red 
 wine, and a piece of butter about the ftze of a walnut 
 rolled in flour. Set them on the fire, and fhake your 
 faucepan often, (but by no means ftir it with a fpoon) 
 till the butter is melted: then put in the fried crumbs, 
 give the faucepan another fhake, take up your birds, lay 
 them in the difh, and pour your fauce over them.— 
 Garnifh with diced lemon. 
 
 SECT. HI. 
 
 BOILING FISH. 
 
 Turbot. 
 
 WHEN you have thoroughly wafhed and cleanfed 
 your fifh, rub fome allegar over it, which will greatly 
 contribute to its firmnefs. Put it in your fifh-plate with 
 the belly upwards, and faften a cloth tight over it to 
 prevent its breaking. Let it boil gently in hard water, 
 with plenty of fait and vinegar, and fcum it well to 
 prevent the fkin being difcoloured. Be fure not to put 
 in your fifh till your water boils, and when it is enough, 
 take it up, and drain it. Remove the cloth carefully, 
 and flip ihe fifh v«jry cautioufly on the difh, for fear of 
 breaking it. Lay over it. oyfter-patties, or fried oyfters. 
 Put your lobfter or gravy-fauce into boats, and garnifh 
 with ciifped parfley and pickles. 
 
 Another 
 
FISH, &c. 
 
 35 
 
 Another Way to drefs a Turbot . 
 
 PUT into the bottom of your ftew-pan fome thyme, 
 parfley, fweet-herbs, and an onion diced. Then lay in 
 your fifhj and drew over it the like quantity of the fame 
 herbs, with fome chives and fweet bafil. Cover the fifh 
 with an equal quantity of white wine and the belt vinegar. 
 Strew in a little bay fait with fome whole pepper. Set 
 the ftew-pan over a gentle fire, and gradually increafe the 
 heat till it is enough ; which done, take it off the fire, 
 but let the fifh remain in the liquor, till you have made 
 your fauce as follows: Set a fauce-pan over the fire, with 
 a pound of butter, two anchovies fplit, boned, and wafhed, 
 two large fpoonsful of capers, cut fmall, fome chives 
 whole, a little pepper and fait, fome nutmeg grated, a 
 little flour, a fpoonful of vinegar, and a little water.— 
 Keep fhaking it round for fome time, and then put on 
 the fifh to make it quite hot. When both are done, 
 put the turbot into a difh, pour fome of the fauce over it, 
 and the remainder into a boat. Garnifh the difh with 
 horfe-radifh. 
 
 i Salmon. 
 
 THIS is fo fubftantial a fifli, that it requires to be 
 well boiled. A piece not very thick will take half an 
 hour. Boil horfe-radifh in the water. For fauce, melt 
 fome butter plain, and fome other with anchovy.— 
 Garnifh with horfe-radifh and fliced lemon. 
 
 To drefs a Whole Salmon for a large Company . 
 
 WHEN the falmon is fcaled and gutted, take off the 
 head and tail, cut the body through into flices an inch and 
 a half thick, and throw them into a large pan of pump 
 water. When they are all put in, fprinkle a handful of 
 bay fait upon the water, ftir it about, and then take out 
 the fifh. Set on a large deep ftew-pan, boil the head and 
 tail, but do not fplit the head, and put in fome fait.-— 
 When they have boiled ten minutes, fkim the water 
 very clean, and put in the flices. When they are 
 boiled enough, take them out, lay the head and tail in a 
 difh, and the flices round. Serve it up with plain melt- 
 
 E 2 cd 
 
36 B O I L I N G 
 
 ed butter and anchovy fauce. Garnifh with horfe-radifiv 
 mixed with the dices. 
 
 Cod’s Head. 
 
 TAKE out the gills and the blood, wadi the whole 
 very clean, rub over it a little fait, and a glafs ofallegar, 
 and lay on your fifn-plate. When the water boils, throw- 
 in a good handful of fait, with a glafs of allegajr. Then 
 put in the hill, and let it boil gently half an hour (if it is 
 a large one three quarters). Take it up very carefully, 
 and ftrip the fkin clean off, fet it before a bride fire, 
 dredge it all over with flour, and bafle it weii with butter. 
 When the froth begins to rife, throw over it lome very 
 fine white bread crumbs, and continue balling it to make 
 it froth well. When it is of a fine light brown, difh it up, 
 and garnifh it with lemon cut in Dices, feraped horfe- 
 radifh, barberries, a few fmall fifn fried and laid round 
 it, or fried oyflers. Cut the row and liver in fiices, and 
 lay over it a little of the lumpy part of the lobfler out of 
 the fauce, which you muft make as follows: Take a 
 good lobfler, and flick a fkewer in the vent of the tail to 
 keep out the water. Throw into the water a handful of 
 fait, and when it boils, put in the lobfler, which will be 
 done in half an hour. If it has fpawn, pick them off, 
 and pound them very fine in a mortar. Put them into 
 half a pound of good melted butte'r; then take the meat 
 out of your lobfler, break it in bits, and put that in like- 
 wife, with a large fpoonful of lemon-pickle, the fame of 
 walnut-catchup, a dice of lemon, one or two dices of 
 horfe-radifh, and a frnall quantity of beaten mace ; lcafon 
 it to your tafle with fait and chyan pepper. Boil them 
 one minute, then take cut the horfe-radifli, and lemon, 
 pour it into your fauce-boat, and ferve it up with your 
 fifn.—If lobfters cannot be procured,you may make uie of 
 oyflers or fhrimps the fame way : and if you cannot get 
 any kind of fhell-filh, you may then add to the butter 
 two anchovies cut fmall, a fpoonful of walnut-liquor, and 
 an onion fluck with cloves. 
 
 Whole Cod. 
 
 PUT a large quantity of water into your fifh-kettle, 
 which muft be of a proper dze for the cod, with a 
 
 quarter 
 
F 1 S H ? &c. 37 
 
 quarter of a pint of vinegar, a handful of fait, and half 
 a (tick of horfe-radiih. Let thefe boil together for fome 
 time, and then put in the fifh. When it is done enough 
 (which will be known by feeling the fins, and the look 
 of the fifh) lay it to drain, put it on a hot fifh-plate, and , 
 then in a warm difh, with the liver cut in half, and laid 
 on each fide. Serve it up with fhrimp or oyfter-fauce, 
 and garnifh with fcraped horfe-radith. 
 
 Salt Cod. 
 
 STEEP your fait-fifh in water all night, with a glafs of 
 vinegar thrown into if, which will take out the fait, and 
 make T teacasmild as frefh fifh. The next day boil it, 
 and when it is enough, feparate it in flakes into your difh. 
 Then pour egg fauce over it, or parfnips boiled and beat 
 fine with butter and cream. As it will foon grow cold 
 fend it to table on a water-plate. 
 
 ■; Cod's Sounds. 
 
 BOIL your founds well, but be careful they are not 
 done too much. Take them up, and let them Hand till 
 they are quite cold. Then make a force-meat of chop¬ 
 ped oyfters, crumbs of bread, a lump of butter, the yolks 
 of two eggs, nutmeg, pepper, and fait, and fill your founds 
 with it; Skewer them into the fhape of a turkey, and lard 
 them down each fide, as you would the breafl of a turkey. 
 Dufi: them well with flour, and put them before the fire in 
 a tin oven to roafl, Bafte them well with butter, and when 
 enough, pour on them oyfter fauce, and garnifh with bar¬ 
 berries.—This is a pretty fide-difh fora large table i or 
 very proper in the time of Lent. 
 
 Soals. 
 
 TAKE a pair of foals, fkin and gut them. Then 
 wafh them thoroughly clean, and lay them in vinegar, 
 fait, and water, for two hours; then dry them in a cloth, 
 put them into a ftew-pan with a pint of white wine, a 
 bunch of fweet-herbs, an onion (tuck with fix cloves, 
 fome whole pepper, and a little fait. Cover them quite 
 clofe, and when enough, take them up, lay them in 
 your dilh, ftrain the liquor, and thicken it with butter 
 and flour. Pour the fauce over, and garnifh with fcra¬ 
 ped 
 
S 8 BOILING 
 
 ped horfe-radifh and lemon. You may add prawns, 
 fhrimps, or mufcles to your fauce, according to the 
 fancy of thofe for whom you provide.-—This is a very 
 good met hod j but to make a variety, you may drefs them 
 as follows: 
 
 Take two or three pair of middling fized foals, fkin, 
 gut and wafh them in fpring-water. Then put them on 
 a difh, and pour half a pint of whi te wine over them, turn 
 them two or three times in it, and then pour it away.--- 
 Cut off the heads and tails of the foals, and fet on a ftew- 
 pan with a little rich fifh broth ; put in an onion cut in 
 pieces, a bunch of fweet-herbs, pepper, fait, and a blade 
 of mace. When thefe boil, put in the foals, and with 
 them half a lemon cut in dices with the peel on. Let 
 them fimmer flowly for fome time, then take out the 
 fweet-herbs, and put in a pint of ftrong white wine, and 
 a piece of butter rolled in flour. Let them all fimmer 
 together till the foals are enough. While the fifh are 
 doing, put in half a pint of veal gravy, and a quarter of a 
 pint of effence of ham ; let it boil a little, then take up 
 the foals, and pour this over them.—Serve up fauce as 
 before directed, and garnilh your difh with diced lemon 
 and horfe-radifh. 
 
 Trout. 
 
 BOIL them in vinegar, water, and fait, with a piece 
 of horfe-radifh : and ferve them up with anchovy-fauce and 
 plain butter. 
 
 Pike. 
 
 WHEN you have taken out the gills and guts, and 
 thoroughly wafhed it, make a good force-meat of chop¬ 
 ped oyflers, the crumb of half a penny loaf, a little lemon 
 peel thred fine, a lump of butter, the yolks of two eggs, 
 a few fweet-herbs, and feafon them to your tafie with fait, 
 pepper and nutmeg. Mix all thefe well together, and 
 put them into the belly of the fifh, which mud; be l'ewed 
 up, and fkewered round. Boil it in hard water with a 
 little fait, and a tea-cup full of vinegar put into the pan. 
 As foon as the water boils, put in the fifh (but not be¬ 
 fore) and if it is of a middling fize, it will be done in 
 
 half 
 
F I S H, &c. 29 
 
 half an hour. Serve it up with oyder-fauce in a boat, 
 having fird poured a little on the filh. Garnilh with 
 pickled barberries. 
 
 Carp. 
 
 WHEN you kill your carp, fave all the blood, and 
 have ready fome nice rich gravy made of beef and mutton, 
 feafoned with pepper, fait, mace, and onion. Before 
 you put in your filh, drain it off, and boil your carp be¬ 
 fore you put it into the gravy. Set it on a flow fire about 
 a quarter of an hour, and thicken the fauce with a large 
 piece of butter rolled in flour, or you may make your 
 fauce thus: take the liver of the carp clean from the 
 guts, three anchovies, a little parfley, thyme, and an onion. 
 Chop thefe fmall together, and take half a pint of Rhe- 
 nifh wine, four fpoonsful of vinegar, and the blood of the 
 carp. When all thefe are flewed gently together, put it 
 to the carp, which mud firfl be boiled in water with a 
 little fait and a pint of wine; but take care not' to do it 
 too much after the carp is put into the fauce. 
 
 Mullets . 
 
 THESE mud be boiled in fait and water. W r hen 
 they are enough, pour away part of the water, and put; 
 to the red a pint of red wine, fome fait and vinegar, 
 two onions diced, with a bunch of fweet-herbs, fome 
 nutmeg, beaten mace, and the juice of a lemon. Boil 
 thefe well together, with two or three anchovies. Then 
 put in the filh, and when they have fimmered in it fome 
 time, put them into a difh, and drain the fauce over 
 them. You may add fhrimp or oyder-fauce according 
 to your difcretion. 
 
 Mackarel. 
 
 GUT and wafh them clean, then dry them in a cloth, 
 and rub them gently over with vinegar. Lay them 
 Arait on your filh-plate, and be very careful in handling 
 them, as they are fo tender a fifh that they will eafily 
 break. When the water boils, put them into your fifh- 
 pan with a little fait, and let them boil gently about a 
 quarter of an hour. When you take them up, drain 
 them well, and put the water that runs from them into a 
 
 fauce-* 
 
40 BOILING 
 
 Luce-pan with one large fpoonful of catchup, a blade or 
 two of mace, an anchovy, and a flice of lemon. Let 
 thefe all boil together about a quarter of an hour, then 
 drain it through a hair freve, and thicken it with flour 
 and butter. Put this fauce in one boat, and melted but¬ 
 ter and parfley in another. DitL up your fifh with their 
 tails in the middle, and garnifli with fcraped horfe-radifh 
 and barberries. 
 
 Herrings. 
 
 SCALE, gut, and wafh them, then dry them tho¬ 
 roughly in a cloth, and rub them over with a little fait 
 and vinegar. Skewer their tails in their mouths, and 
 lay them on your fifh-plate. When the water boils, put 
 them in, and about ten or twelve minutes will do them: 
 After you have taken them up, let them drain properly, 
 end then turn their heads into the middle of the dith 
 Serve them up with melted butter and parfley, and gar- 
 nilh with fcraped horfe-radifh. 
 
 Flounder 5, Plaife and Dabs. 
 
 AS the fimilarity of thefe fi(h is fo great, the method 
 of drefling either muft be the fame. Firft cut off the 
 fins, nick the brown fide under the head, and take out 
 the guts. Then dry them with a cloth, and boil them in 
 fait and water. Serve them up with fhrimp, cockle, or 
 mufcle fauce, and garnifh with red cabbage. 
 
 - Perch. , , 
 
 PUT your fifh into the water when it boils, with fome 
 fait, an onion cut in fiices, fome parfley, and as much 
 milk as will turn the water. When the fifh is enough, 
 put it into a foup-difh, and pout a little of the water with 
 the parfley and onions over it* Serve it up with melted 
 butter and parfley in a boat. 
 
 Eels. 
 
 AFTER {binning,- gutting, and properly wafting 
 them, cut off their heads, dry them, and twift them 
 round on your fifh-plate. Boil them in fait and water, 
 and ferve them up with melted butter and parfley.—If 
 you only boil them in fuch a quantity of water as will 
 
FISH. 41 
 
 juft cover them, the liquor will be exceeding good, and 
 very beneficial to weak or confumptive conftitutions. 
 
 Sturgeon. 
 
 WHEN you have cleaned your fifli properly, pre¬ 
 pare as much liquor as will boil it in the following 
 manner: To two quarts of water put a pint of vinegar, 
 a ftick of horfe-radilh, two or three bits of lemon-peel, 
 fome whole pepper, a bay-leaf, and a linall quantity of 
 fait. Boil your fifh in this liquor, and when enough 
 fwhich you will know by the flefli appearing likely to 
 feparate from the bones) take it up, and have ready the 
 following fauce: Melt a pound of butter, difiolve an 
 anchovy in it, put in a blade or two of mace, bruife the 
 body of a crab in the butter, a few fhrimps or cray-fifh, 
 a little catchup, and a little lemon-juice. When it 
 boils, take up the fturgeon, drain it well, lay it in your 
 difh, and ferve it up with the fauce poured into boats. 
 Garnifh with fried oyfters, diced lemon, and fcraped 
 horfe-radifh. 
 
 Turtles. 
 
 THESE animals not only furnifh the moft delicious 
 repaft to the epicure, but to all thofe who can obtain 
 io luxurious a gratification. They are of various fizes, 
 and that the reader may be informed how to drefs them, 
 we fhall here confine ourlelves to one of about thirty 
 pounds weight, obferving that the fame directions are 
 to be proportionally attended to in drefting thofe of a 
 more confiderable fize. 
 
 When you kill a turtle, which muft be the night 
 before you drefs it, take off the head, and let it bleed 
 two or three hours; then cut off the fins, and the 
 callipee from the callipafh, taking care not to break the 
 gall. Throw all the inwards into cold water, the guts 
 and tripe keep by themfelves, and flit them open with a 
 pen-knife; wafh them very clean in fcalding water, and 
 fcrape off all the inward fkin, as you do them, throw 
 them into cold water, wafh them out of that, and put 
 them into frefh water, and let them lie all night, fcald¬ 
 ing the fins and edges of the callipafh and callipee; cut 
 
 F ' the 
 
43 BOILING 
 
 the meat off the fhoulders, and hack the bones, and fet 
 them over the fire with the fins in about a quart of 
 water; put in a little mace, 'nutmeg, chyan, and fait; 
 let it flew about three hours, then drain it, and put the 
 fins by for ufe. The next morning take fome of the 
 meat you cut off the fhoulders, and chop it fmall, as 
 for faufages, with about a pound of beef or veal fuet, 
 feafon with mace, nutmeg, fweet-marjoram, parfley, 
 chyan, and fait to your tafle, and three or four glaffes of 
 Madeira wine. Stuff it under the two fiefhy parts of the 
 meat, and if you have any left, lay it over to prevent the 
 meat from burning; then cut the remainder of the meat 
 and fins in pieces the fize of an egg; feafon it pretty high 
 with chyan, fait, and a little nutmeg, and put it into the 
 callipafh. Take care that it be fewed or lecured up at the 
 end, to keep in the gravy. Then boil up the gravy, and 
 adc| more wine, if required, and thicken it a little with 
 butter and flour. Put fome of it to the turtle, and fet 
 it in the oven with a well buttered paper over to keep it 
 from burning, and when it is half baked, fqueefe in the 
 juice of one or two lemons, and Air it up. The cali- 
 pafh, or back, w ill take half an hour more baking than 
 the caliipee, which two hours will do. The guts muff 
 be cut in pieces two or three inches long, the tripes in 
 lefs, and put into a mug of clear water, and fet it in the 
 oven with the callipafh, and when it is enough drained 
 from the water, it is to be mixed with the other parts, and 
 fent up very hot to table. 
 
 To drcfs a Turlk in the fame Manner as is praclifed in the 
 
 Wtji-Indies. 
 
 TAKE the turtle out of the water the night before you 
 intend todrefs it, and lay it on its back. In the morning 
 cut its throat, or the head off, and let it bleed for fome 
 time. Then cut off the fins; fcald, fcale, and trim 
 them and the head, and raile the caliipee, which is the 
 belly or under fhell; clean it well, leaving to it as much 
 meat as you conveniently can. Take from the back fhell 
 all the meat and entrails, except the monfieur, which is 
 the fat, and looks green: this muff alfo be baked with 
 
 the 
 
F 1 S H. 43 
 
 the {hell. Wafh all clean with fait and water, and cut it 
 into pieces of a moderate fize. Take it from the bones, 
 and put them with the fins and head into a foup-pot, with 
 a gallon of water, fome fait, and two blades of mace. 
 When it boils, fkin it clean, and put in it a bunch of 
 thyme, parfley, favory, and young onions, and your 
 veal part, except about one pound and a half, which muft: 
 be made forcemeat of, as for Scotch collops, adding a 
 little chyan pepper. When the veal is boiled in the 
 foup about an hour, take it out, cut it into pieces, and 
 put to the other part. The guts, which are confidered 
 as the belt part, muft be fplit open, fcraped, and made 
 clean, and cut into pieces about two inches long. Scald 
 and fkin the paunch or maw, and cut it like the other 
 parts; mix them with the guts and other parts, except the 
 liver, and add half a pound of frefh butter, a few jfhalots, 
 a bunch of thyme, parfley, and a little favory, feafo^ed 
 with fait, white pepper, mace, three or four cloves 
 beaten, and a little chyan pepper. Stew them about half 
 an hour over a good charcoal fire, and put in half a pint 
 ofMadeira wine, with as much of the broth as will cover 
 it, and let it flew till tender, which will take about four 
 or five hours. When it is nearly enough, Ikirn it, thicken 
 it with flour, add fome veal broth, and make it about 
 the thicknefs of a fricafee. Let your forcemeat balls be 
 fried about the fize of a walnut, and ftewed about half an 
 hour with the reft. If there are any eggs, let them be 
 boiled and cleaned; but if none, get twelve or fourteen 
 yolks of hard eggs: Then put the flew (which is the 
 callipafh) into the fhell with the eggs, and either make ufe 
 of a falamander, or put it into the oven to bake. Slafh 
 the callipee in feveral places, put fome butter to it, and 
 feafon it moderately with chyan and white pepper, fait, 
 beaten mace, chopped thyme, parfley and young onions. 
 Put a piece on each flafb, and fome over the whole, 
 and a dull of flour; then bake it in a bride oven, in a tin 
 or iron dripping-pan. The back fhell, which is called 
 the callipafh, muft be feafoned like the callipee, and 
 baked in a dripping-pan, fet upright, with four brick¬ 
 bats, or any thing of that kind. An hour and a half 
 
 F 2 will 
 
44 ROASTING 
 
 will bake it, which mull; be done before the flew be put 
 in. The fins, when boiled very tender, muft be taken 
 out of the foup, and put into a ftew-pan, with fome good 
 veal gravy, not high coloured, a little Madeira wine, 
 feafoned and thickened as the callipafh, and ferved in a 
 difh by itfelf. The lights, heart, and liver, may be done 
 the fame way, but a little higher feafoned : or the lights 
 and heart may be ftewed with the callipafh, and taken 
 out before you put it into the fhell, with a little of the 
 fauce, adding a little more feafoning; but difh it by it¬ 
 felf. The veal part may be made fricandos, or Scotch 
 collops. The liver fhould never be ftewed with the cal¬ 
 lipafh, but dreffed by itfelf in any manner you like; ex¬ 
 cept you feparate the lights and heart from the callipafh, 
 and ferve them together in one difh, Be careful to (train 
 the foup, and ferve it in a tureen, or large china bowl.— 
 The different difloes may be placed on the table as fol¬ 
 lows : The callipee at the head, the callipafh at the bottom, 
 and the lights, foup, fins, &c. in the centre.—The fins 
 kept in the liquor will eat well when cold. 
 
 CHAP. III. 
 
 ROASTING JN GENERAL. 
 
 SECT, I. 
 
 BUTCHER’S MEAT. 
 
 T HE firft confderation of the cook in roafting, muft 
 be to regulate the ftrength of her fire in proportion 
 to the article fhe has to drefs. If it is a fmall or thin 
 joint, the fire muft be bride,- that it may be done quick ; 
 but if a large one, afubftantial fire muft be made in order 
 that it may gradually receive the heat, and by (birring up 
 the fire, when it begins to burn up, and keeping the bot¬ 
 tom dear, the meat muft be roafted as it ought to be, and 
 with little trouble to the cook.—Never put fait on your 
 jneat before you lay it to the fire, a$ it 'will be apt to draw 
 
 Out 
 
MEAT. 45 
 
 out the gravy. In roafting Beef, if it be a large piece, 
 fkewer a fheet of writing paper over the fat, and bafte it 
 well while roafting. When it is near enough, which you 
 will know by the fmoke drawing to the fire, take off the 
 paper, then bafte it well and dredge it with flour to make 
 it frothy.— Mutton and lamb muft be roafted with a clear, 
 quick fire.— Veal requires particular care, and muft be 
 done of a fine light brown colour. If it is a fillet or loin, 
 put paper over the fat, in the fame manner as you do beef. 
 At firft let it be fome diftance from the fire, and bafte 
 it with butter; but when it is got thoroughly warm, put 
 it nearer, and when nearly done, dredge it with flour.— 
 Ifabreaft, put the caul over it, with the fvveet-bread 
 fkewefed on the back, and when fufficiently done, take off 
 the caul and dredge it with flour. Pork as well as Veal 
 fhouldbe well done, otherwile it will naufeate : but mut¬ 
 ton and beef, if a little under done may be difpenfed with. 
 Wild Fowls muft be roafted with a clear, brifk fire, and 
 when they are frothy, and of a light brown colour, they 
 are enough. Great care muft be taken not to over-do 
 them, as the lofs of gravy will produce a want of the 
 flavour. Tame Fowls require more roafting, and muft be 
 often bailed, in order to keep up a ftrong froth, which 
 will make them look well when brought to table. Pigs 
 and Geefe muft be done with a quick fire, turned quick, 
 and frequently balled. Hares and Rabbits require time 
 and care, otherwife the body will be done too much, and 
 the ends too little,—In roafting any article, always allow 
 longer time for it in frofly than in mild weather; and 
 take particular care that your fpits are thoroughly clean 
 before you put on your meat, as nothing is more difa- 
 greeable than the mark of it left in the fiefh. 
 
 Having laid before the cook thefe neceffary and gene¬ 
 ral obfervations in roafting, we fhall now proceed to give 
 directions for drefling the refpe&ive articles under this 
 head; beginning with 
 
 Beef, 
 
 THE firft fteps to be taken in roafting Beef we have 
 glready noticed in the foregoing obfervations. It re¬ 
 mains, therefore, only to fay, that the time each joint 
 
 will 
 
46 ROASTING 
 
 will take doing muft be proportioned to its weight. If 
 a piece of ten pounds it will take an hour and a half at 
 a good fire. Twenty pounds weight, if a thick piece, 
 will take three hours, but if thin half an hour lefs ; and 
 fo on in proportion to the weight. When done, take it 
 up, and put it into your difh Serve it with potatoes, 
 horfe-radifh, and pickles for fauce, and garnifh the rim of 
 the difh with horfe-radifh fcraped very fine. 
 
 Mu/ton and Lamb. 
 
 MUTTON and Lamb muft be roafted with a 
 quick clear fire. Bafte it as foon as you lay it down, 
 fprinkle on a little fait, and, when near done, dredge it 
 with flour. A leg of mutton of fix pounds will take an 
 hour and a quarter, and one of twelve two hours; a 
 breaft half an hour at a quick fire; a neck an hour, and 
 a fhoulder much about the fame time as a leg. In dref- 
 fing the loin, the chine (which is the two loins,) and the 
 faddle (which is the two necks and part of the fhoulder 
 cut together) you muft raife the lkin, and fkewer it on, 
 and when near done, take off the fkin, and bafte it to 
 froth it up. 
 
 The proper Sauces to Mutton and Lamb are, 
 potatoes, pickles, celery raw or ftewed, brocoli, French 
 beans, and cauliflower. To a fhoulder of mutton may 
 be added onion fauce, which make thus: boil eight or 
 ten large onions, changing the water two or three times 
 while boiling. When enough, chop them on a board, 
 to keep them from growing of a bad colour; put them 
 into a faucepan with a quarter of a pound of butter, 
 and two fpoonsful of thick cream ; boil it a little, and 
 then pour it into a large boat or bafon, and ferve it up 
 with the meat. 
 
 Haunch of Mutton drejfed like Venifon. 
 
 TAKE a hind-quarter of fine mutton, and cut the 
 leg like a haunch. Lay it in a pan with the back down¬ 
 wards, pour in a bottle of red wine, and let the meat 
 foak in it twenty-four hours. Before you fpit it, let it 
 be covered with clean paper and pafte as you do venifon, 
 in order to preferve the lat. Roaft it before a quick fire. 
 
MEAT. 47 
 
 and keep batting with butter mixed with Tome of the li¬ 
 quor in which it was foaked. When done, ferve it up- 
 with fome good rich gravy in one boat, and fweet lauce, 
 in another. It will take about three hours roafting. 
 
 A Fore-Quarter oj IIoufe-Lamb. 
 
 A Small forequarter of houfe-lamb will take an hour 
 and a half roafting j a leg three quarters of an hour. 
 When it is done, and put into the dfth, cut off the Ihoul- 
 der, pepper and fait the ribs, and fqueeze a Seville orange 
 between. Serve it up with fallad, brocoli, potatoes, and 
 celery raw or ftewed. 
 
 Tongues or Udders. 
 
 PARBOIL ' the tongue before you put it down to 
 roaft; ftick eight or ten cloves about it, bafte it vfdth 
 butter, and ferve it up with fome gravy and fweetmeat 
 fauce. An udder may be roafted after the fame manner. 
 
 Veal. 
 
 IF your fire is good, veal will take about a quarter of 
 an hour to each pound in roafting. The fat of the loin 
 and fillet mutt be covered with paper, as we have before 
 obferved. The fillet and fhoulder mutt be fluffed with 
 the following favoury compofition—a quarter of a pound 
 of fuet chopped fine, parfley and fweet herbs chopped, 
 grated bread and lemon peel; pepper, fait, and a little 
 nutmeg, and the yolk of an egg. Work thefe all well to¬ 
 gether, and fluff them into your veal, as fecure as you 
 can, that it may not fall out while roafting. The breaft 
 muft be roafted with the caul on till it is near enough; 
 then take it off, and flour and bafte the meat. When 
 you have t^ken it up, and put it into your difh, pour a 
 little melted butter over it, and ferve it up with any of 
 the following fauces; fallad, pickles, potatoes, brocoli, 
 cucumbers raw or ftewed, French beans, peafe, cauli¬ 
 flowers, celery, raw or ftewed.—-Remember, in drefling 
 any joint of veal that it is well done, but at the fame 
 time let it not be too much. If it is not done enough if 
 will be too difguftful to enjoy, and if too much, the 
 juices will be loft, and the fleih eat taftelefs. 
 
 Pork, 
 
4 8 
 
 ROASTING 
 
 Pork. 
 
 PORK, like veal, mull be well done. If it is & 
 loin, take a fharp penknife, and cut the fkin acrofs, 
 which will not only make the joint more convenient 
 to carve, but will alfo make the rind, or crackling, 
 more pleafant to eat. A leg of pork mull be fcored in 
 the fame manner as the loin ; if not particularly objected 
 to, fluff the knuckle part with fage and onion chopped 
 fine, with pepper and fait j or cut a hole under the twill, 
 put the feafoning there, and fallen it with a fkewer. 
 Roall it crifp, as it it will make the crackling, of which 
 moll people are fond, eat the better.-—If you want a 
 Spring (which is not very common, though, at the fame 
 time, if young, will eat exceeding well) cut off the 
 fhanlc, or knuckle, fprinkle fage and onion over it, 
 roll it round, and tie it with a firing. About two 
 
 hours will do it.-‘The Spare-Rib thould be balled 
 
 with a little bit of butter, a very little dull of flour, and 
 fome dried fage fhred fmall. The principal fauces for 
 any kind of roall pork are, potatoes, mullard, and apple- 
 fauce, the latter of which you mull make thus t Parc 
 core, and flice fome apples, and put them into a fauee- 
 pan with a little water, to prevent their burning, and 
 throw in a bit of lemon-peel. When they are enough, 
 take out the peel, bruife the apples, and add a piece of 
 butter, and a little lugar. When you have worked the 
 whole together very fine, fet it on the fire till it is quite 
 hot, then put it into your bafon, and ferve it up with the 
 meat.—If it is a leg of pork, have a little drawn gravy 
 ready againft it is done, and pour it into the difh when, 
 you ferve it up.--The bell way of drdfing Pork Gnjkin 
 is to roall it, balle it with a little butter and fage, and a 
 little pepper and fait. The only article ufed as fauce for 
 this is mullard. 
 
 Sucking Pigs. 
 
 WHEN your pig is properly prepared for drefllng, 
 put into the belly of it a little fage fhredded fine, with 
 fome fait, a tea-fpoonful of black pepper, and a cruft of 
 brown bread. Then fpit it, few up the belly, and lay it 
 down to a brisk clear fire, with a pig plate hung in the 
 
 middle 
 
MEAT. 49 
 
 middle to prevent the body part being done before the 
 extremities. As loon as it is warm, put a piece of 
 butter into a cloth, and frequently rub the pig with it 
 while roading. When it becomes of a fine brown, and 
 the (team draws to the fire, rub it quite dry with a clean 
 cloth, and then with a bit of cold butter, which will 
 help to crifp it. Having taken it up, and put it into 
 your difh, cut off the head with a fharp knife, and take 
 off the collar, the ears, and the jaw-bone. Split the 
 jaw in two, and when you have cut the pig down the 
 back, which mud be done before you draw out the fpit, 
 lay the two Tides with the back part to each other, a jaw 
 on each fide, and an ear on each fboulder, and the collar 
 on the fhoulder. Have ready your fauce, which you 
 mud make in the following manner: Having chopped 
 the brains, put them in a faucepan, with a tea-fpoonful 
 of white gravy, the gravy that runs out of the pig 
 (which you mud be careful to fave, by putting a bafon 
 or pan in the dripping- pan under the pig as foon as the 
 gravy begins to run) and a fmall piece of anchovy. Add 
 to thefe half a pound of butter, and as much flour as will 
 thicken the gravy, a flice of lemon, a fpoonfull of white 
 wine, fome caper liquor, and a little fait. Shake it 
 over the fire till it is quite hot, then pour it into your 
 difh with the pig, and ferve it up. You may like wife 
 boil a few currants, and fend them in a tea faucer, with 
 aglafs of currant-jelly in the middle. 
 
 As there may fometimes be a neceflity for the cook’s 
 killing the pig herfelf, it may not be improper to in¬ 
 form her in that cafe how to proceed. Stick the pig 
 jud above the bread bone, and let the knife touch its 
 heart, otherwife it will be a long time dying. As foon 
 as it is dead, put it into cold water for a few minutes, 
 and rub it over with a little rofin beat exceeding fine, 
 or indead of that ufe its own blood, which will nearly an- 
 fwer the fame purpofe. Let it lie half a minute in a 
 pail of fcalding water, then take it out, lay it upon a 
 clean table, and drip off all the hairs as fad as poflible; 
 but if they do not come clean off, put it into the hot 
 water again, and when it is perfectly clean odj wafh it in 
 
 II. Q warm 
 
50 ROASTING 
 
 warm water, and then in two or three cold waters, that 
 when dreffed it may not tafte of the rofin. Take off the 
 four feet at the firft joints, flit it down the belly, and take 
 out all the entrails. Put the heart, liver, lights, and 
 pettitoes together; wafh the pig well in cold water, and 
 having perfectly dryed it with a cloth, hang it up. When 
 you drefs it proceed as before directed. 
 
 Calf's Head. 
 
 WHEN you have thoroughly walked, and cleanfed 
 it from the dime, take out the bones, and dry it well in a 
 cloth. Make a feafoning of beaten mace, pepper, fait, 
 nutmeg, and cloves, fome bacon cut very fmall, and 
 fome grated bread. Strew this over the head, roll it up, 
 jfkewerit, and tie it with tape. While roafting, bafte it 
 with butter, and when done, having previoufly made a 
 rich veal gravy, thickened with butter rolled in flour, 
 pour it over, and ferve it to table. Some like nnifh- 
 room fauce, in which cafe make it as follows: Clean and 
 wafh a quart of frefh mufhrooms, cut them into pieces, 
 and put them into a ftew-pan, with a little fait, a blade of 
 mace, artd a little butter. Stew them gently for half a 
 hour, and then add a pint of cream, and the yolks of 
 two eggs beat up fine; keep ftirring it till it boils, then 
 pour it into a boat, and ferve it up with the head.---This 
 is an excellent fauce for fowls or turkies. 
 
 Ham , or Gammon of Bacon. 
 
 WHICHEVER you drefs of thefe, take off the 
 fkin or rind, and lay the meat in luke-warm water for 
 two or three hours. Then put it into a pan, pour over 
 it a quart of Canary wine, and let it foak about half an 
 hour. When you have fpitted it, put a fheet of clean 
 paper over the fat fide, pour the Canary, in which it was 
 foaked, into the dripping-pan, and bade the meat with 
 it all the time it is roafting. When it is enough take off 
 the paper, and dredge it well with crumbled bread and 
 parfley Ihred fine. Make the fire brifk, and brown it 
 well. If you ferve it up hot, garnifh with rafpings of 
 bread j but if cold, for a fecond courfe, garnifh with 
 green parfley. 
 
 SECT. 
 
P O U L T R Y. 
 
 SECT II.. 
 
 ROASTING POULTRY. 
 
 Turkies. 
 
 WHEN your Turkey is properly truffed for dref- 
 fing, kufF it with the following ingredients : Take four 
 ounces of butter, or chopped fuet, fome grated bread, a 
 little lemon-peel, parfley and fweet herbs chopped together, 
 pepper, fait and nutmeg, a little cream, and the yolks 
 of two or three eggs : work thefe all well together, and 
 fill the craw with it. Let your fire be very brifk, and 
 when you put it down paper the break, and let it con¬ 
 tinue on till near done : then take it off, dredge it with 
 flour, and keep baking it till it is done. If it is a large 
 turkey, ferve it up with gravy alone, or brown celery, 
 ormufhroom fauce. If it is a turkey-poult, ferve it up 
 with gravy and bread fauce, the latter of which make 
 thus: Cut the crummy part of a penny-loaf into thin 
 dices, put it into a faucepan with cold water, a few pep¬ 
 per-corns, a little fait, and an onion : boil it till the bread 
 is quite foft, and then beat it very fine : put it into a 
 quarter of a pound of butter, with two fpoonsful of thick 
 cream, and when it boils up, pour it into a bafon, or 
 
 boat, and ferve it up with the turkey.-A middling 
 
 fized turkey will take more than an hour, a fmall one three 
 quarters of an hour, and a very large one an hour and a 
 half.—In drefiing thefe, as well as fowls, always let your 
 fire be clear and brifk. 
 
 Fowls. 
 
 WHEN your fowls are laid to the fire, finge them, 
 then bake them with butter, and dredge over fome flour. 
 When the fmoke begins to draw to the fire, bake and 
 dredge them again : let the fire be brifk, and fend them 
 to table with a good froth. The proper Sauces for roak 
 fowls are, gravy, egg, mukiroom, or celery-fauce, the 
 latter of which make thus : Wafh and pare a large 
 bunch of celery very clean, cut it into thin bits, and boil 
 it gently in a little water till it is tender; then add a little 
 
 G 2 beaten 
 
5 2 ROASTING 
 
 beaten mace, nutmeg, pepper and fait, and thicken it 
 with a large piece of butter rolled in flour: then give it 
 a boil, and pour it into your your fauce boat. If you think 
 proper, you may add to the water in which you boil the 
 celery half a pint of cream, which will make it very 
 rich and fubftantial.-—This is an excellent fauce, not only 
 for fowls but alfo for partridges, or any other game of the 
 fame kind. 
 
 Chickens. 
 
 BE particularly careful in drawing your chickens, 
 which done cut off their claws, and trufs them for dref- 
 fing. Put them down to a good fire, and finge, dull, 
 and bafte them with butter. When they are enough, 
 froth them, and lay them in your difh. Serve them up 
 with parfiey and butter poured over them, and gravy and 
 mufhroom fauce in boats.—A large chicken will take 
 half an hourj a fmall one twenty minutes. 
 
 Green Geefe. 
 
 "WHEN the goofe is properly cleaned, and ready for 
 dreffing, put into the body a large lump of butter, then 
 fpit it, and lay it down to a bride clear fire. Singe it, 
 dredge it with flour, and as loon as it begins to receive 
 the heat of the fire, bafte it well with butter, which will 
 occafion the flefh to. rife, and make it look well. When 
 you think it near enough, dredge it again with flour, and 
 bafte it till the froth rifes, and it is of a clear light 
 brown. When done, take it up, and put it into your 
 difh, having ready the following fauce. Melt fome 
 butter, and put it into a fpoonful of forrel-juice, a little 
 fugar, and a few fealded goofeberries. Pour it into 
 your fauce-boat, and fend it up hot with the goofe to 
 table. You may likewife add gravy and apple-fauce, 
 and garnifliyour diih with a cruft of bread grated very 
 fine. 
 
 A Stubble Goofe. 
 
 TAKE two onions, with a few leaves of fage walked 
 clean, and chop them as fine as poflible. Mix with 
 them 4 large piece of butter, fome fait, and pepper. 
 Put this into the body of the goofe, then tie both ends, 
 
 ‘ and 
 
POULTRY. 53 
 
 and put it down to the fire to roaft. Singe and dredge 
 it with flour, and when it is thoroughiy hot, bafte it 
 with frefli butter. When near done, dredge it again, 
 and keep batting it till the froth rifes, and the (team 
 draws to the fire, then take it up, put it into your difh, pour 
 a little hot boiling hot water over it, and ferve it up with 
 good gravy fauce in one boat, apple-fauce in another, 
 and rauftard. 
 
 Ducks. 
 
 YOU mutt prepare them for the fpit in the fame 
 manner you do geefe, by putting into the body fome 
 fage and onion chopped fine, with pepper and fait. When 
 you lay them down, finge, duft, and bafte them with 
 butter, and a good fire will roaft them in about twenty 
 minutes. Before you take them up, duft them with 
 flour, and give them another batting with butter to 
 make them froth and look brown. Your gravy muft be 
 made of the gizzard and pinions, with an onion, a 
 tea fpoonful of lemon pickle, a few grains of pepper, a 
 large blade of mace, and a tea-fpoonful of catchup. 
 When they are thoroughly ftewed, ftrain off the gravy, 
 put fome into the difh with the ducks,' and the remainder 
 in a boat or bafon. Wild ducks muft be done in the 
 fame manner. 
 
 Pigeons . 
 
 AFTER you have drawn your Pigeons, and taken 
 the craws clean out, wafh them in feveral waters. When 
 you have dried them, roll a good lump of butter in fome 
 chopped parfley, and feafon it with pepper and fait. Put 
 this into your pigeons, then fpit, dull with flour, and 
 bafte them. When enough, ferve them up with parfley 
 and butter for fauce, and, if in feafon, garnifh your difh 
 with bunches of afparagus. A good fire will roaft them 
 in twenty minutes. 
 
 Larks. 
 
 TAKE a dozen of Larks, put them on a lkewer, and 
 tie 'both ends of the fkewer to the fpit. Dredge and 
 bafte them, and in about ten or twelve minutes they will 
 
 be 
 
54 ROASTING 
 
 be done. Make your fauce thus : Take the crumb of 
 half a penny loaf, Hired it very fine, and put it into a 
 faucepan, with a piece of butter about the fize of a wal¬ 
 nut. Shake it over a gentle fire till it is of a light brown, 
 then lay it between your birds on your plate or difb, and 
 pour a little melted butter over them. 
 
 Rabbits. 
 
 WHEN you have cafed your rabbits, fkewer their 
 heads upon their backs, their fore-legs into their ribs, 
 and the hind legs double. Take the crumb of half a 
 penny loaf, a little parfley, thyme, fweet-marjoram, and 
 lemon-peel. Shred all thefe fine, and feafon them with 
 pepper, fait, and nutmeg. Mix them up into a light 
 fluffing with two eggs, a little cream, and a quarter of a 
 pound of butter. Put this into their bellies, few them 
 up, and dredge and bafte them well with butter.— 
 When done, take them up, chop the livers after boiling, 
 and lay them in lumps round the edge of your diffi.-— 
 Serve them up with parfley and butter for fauce. 
 
 To roaft a rabbit hare-faffiion, you muft lard it with 
 bacon, and bafte it in the fame manner you do a hare, 
 directions for which you will find in the next feClion. If 
 you lard it, make gravy lauce, if not, white fauce will be 
 jnoft proper. 
 
 SECT III. 
 
 ROASTING GAME. 
 
 PJiea/ants and Partridges. 
 
 s' 
 
 THE fame methods are to be taken in dreffing either 
 of thefe birds. When you have fpitted and laid them 
 down, dull them with flour, and bafte them often with 
 freffi butter, keeping them at a good diftance from the 
 fire. About half an hour will roaft them. Make your 
 gravy of a lcrag of mutton, and put into the lauce-pan 
 wkh it, a tea-fpoonful of lemon-pickle, a large fpoonful 
 
GAME. 
 
 of catchup, and the fame of browning*. Strain it, and 
 put a little into the difli with the birds. Serve them up, 
 with the remainder in one bafon, and bread-fauce in an¬ 
 other- By way of ornament fix one of the principal fea¬ 
 thers of the pheafant in its tail* 
 
 Woodcocks or Snipes. 
 
 THESE birds are fo peculiar from all others that they 
 mull never be drawn. When you have fpitted them, 
 take the round of a threepenny loaf, and toafl it nice and 
 brown; then lay it in a difh under the birds, and when 
 you put them in the fire, bafte them with a little butter, 
 and let the trail or gut drop on the toaft. When they 
 are done, put the toad in the difh, and lay the birds on it* 
 Pour about a quarter of a pint of gravy , into the difli, and 
 fet it over a lamp or chafing difli for three or four 
 minutes, and then take it hot to table.---A woodcock 
 will take about twenty minutes roafting, and a fnipe 
 fifteen. 
 
 Ruff's and Rees (which are particularly found in Lin- 
 colnfhire and the I fie of Ely; are very delicate birds, 
 and muft be truffed like the woodcock, but not dreffed 
 with the guts. When done, ferve them up with gravy 
 and bread lauce, and garnifh the difli with chip crumbs of 
 bread. 
 
 Hares . 
 
 As we (hall have frequent cccafion to mention the article 
 Browning, it will be neceflary here to give proper diredfions 
 how to make it—Beatfmall four ounces of treble-refined fugar, 
 and put it into a frying-pan, with one ounce of butter.—• 
 Set it over a clear fire, and mix it well together. When it be¬ 
 gins to be frothy by the fugar diflolving, hold it higher over the 
 fire, and have ready a pint of red wine. When the fugar and 
 butter is of a deep brown, pour in a little of the wine, and {fir 
 it well together ; then add more wine, and keep ftirring it all 
 the time. Put in half an ounce of Jamaica pepper, fix cloves, 
 four fhalots peeled, two or three blades of mace, three fpoons- 
 ful of catchup, a little fait, and a rind of one lemon. Boil 
 them flowly about ten minutes, and then pour it into a bafon. 
 When cold, take off the feum very clean, and bottle it up for 
 ufe. 
 
5 s 
 
 ROASTING 
 
 Hares. 
 
 WHEN your hare is cafed and properly truffled for 
 dreffing, make a fluffing thus : Take a large dice of 
 bread, and crumble it very fine, put to it a quarter of a 
 pound of beef marrow, or fuet, the like quantity of but¬ 
 ter, the liver boiled and ffired fine, a fprig or two of 
 winter favory, a bit of lemon-peel, an anchovy, a little 
 chyan pepper, and half a nutmeg grated. Mix thefe 
 well together with a glafs of red wine and two eggs, put 
 it into the belly of the hare, and few it up. When you 
 have fpitted it, and laid it before the fire, put into your 
 dripping-pan a quart, of milk, and keep bailing your 
 hare with it till there is little left. When it is nearly 
 done, dredge it with flour, and bade it with butter till it 
 is properly frothed.—-If it is a fmall hare it will take 
 about anh our and a half; and if a large one two hours. 
 When done, put it into your difh, and ferve it up with 
 plenty of good rich gravy, and fome currant jelly 
 warmed in a cup ; or red wine and fugar done to a fyrup 
 thus : take a pint of red wine, put it into a quarter of a 
 pound of fugar, fet it over a flow fire, and let it fimmer 
 for a quarter of an hour; then take it off, and pour it 
 into your fauce boat or bafon 
 
 Venifon. 
 
 TAKE a haunch of venifon, and when you have 
 fpitted it, rub fome butter all over it. Take four ffieets 
 of clean paper, well buttered, two of which put on the 
 haunch. Then make a pafte with fome flower, a little 
 butter and water; roll it out half as big as your haunch, 
 and put it over the fat part; cover this with the other 
 two ffieets of paper, and tie them fall with packthread. 
 Lay it to a brifk fire, and bade it well all the time it is 
 roading. When it is near done, take off both paper and 
 pade, dredge it well with flour, and bade it with butter. 
 As foon as it becomes of a light brown, take it up, and 
 ferve it to table with brown gravy, currant jelly, or the 
 fyrup mentioned in the preceding article for a hare.—- 
 A haunch will take about three hours roading. 
 
 SECT. 
 
/ 
 
 FISH. 57 
 
 SECT. IV. 
 
 ROASTING FISH. 
 
 Cod's Head. 
 
 WHEN the head is wafhed thoroughly clears fcore 
 it with a knife, drew a little fait on it, and if you have it, 
 put it into a large tin oven ; if not, lay it in a dew-pan 
 before the fire, with fomething behind the pan, that the 
 fire may have its proper effect on the meat. Throw 
 away all the water that comes from it the firft half hour, 
 and then drew over it a little nutmeg, cloves, mace beat 
 fine, and fait. Flour it and bade it with butter; when 
 it has lain fome time thus, turn, feafon, and bade the 
 other fide the fame. Turn it often, continue the bading 
 frequently, and drew on ic fome crumbs of bread. If it 
 is a large head, ic will take four or five hours. Have 
 ready fome melted butter, with an anchovy, fome of the 
 liver of the fifh boiled and bruifed fine, and mix it well 
 with the butter, and two yolks of eggs beat fine. When 
 thefe boil, drain them through a fieve, and put them 
 into the faucepan again, with a few fhrimps or pickled 
 cockles, two fpoonsful of red wine, and the juice of a 
 lemon. When this has fimmered for a minute or two, 
 put it into the pan in which the head was roaded, and dir 
 it well all together; then put it again into the faucepan, 
 and keep dirring it till it boils. Being thus ready with 
 your fauce, put the head into a large difh, pour your 
 fauce into a bafon, and lerve both up hot to table.— 
 Garnifh the head with fried fifh, lemon, and fcraped 
 horfe-radilh. 
 
 Lobjiers. 
 
 WHEN you have half-boiled your lobder, take it 
 out of the water, rub it well with butter, and lay it be¬ 
 fore the fire; continue bading it with butter till ic has a 
 fine froth, and the fhell looks of a dark brown. Then 
 put it into your dilh, and ferve it up with plain melted 
 butter in a fauce-boat, 
 
 II. 
 
 H 
 
 CHAP, 
 
( 5 « ) . 
 
 CHAP. IV. 
 
 BAKING . 
 
 SECT. I. 
 
 BUTCHER’S MEAT. 
 
 H E only method to be oblerved previous to this 
 
 X mode of cookery, is to have the pans, or whatever 
 veflels you fend your provifions in to the oven, perfectly 
 clean, fo that the care you have taken in preparing the 
 article may not be injured from neglect in eleanlinefs. 
 
 Rump of Beef. 
 
 CUT out the bone quite clean, then beat the flefli 
 well with a rolling-pin, and lard it with a piece of bacon 
 cut out of the back. Seafon your bacon with pepper, 
 fait, and cloves, and lard acrofs the meat, that it may 
 cut handfomer. Seafon the meat with pepper, fait, and 
 cloves; put it into an earthen pot with all the broken 
 bones, half a pound of butter, fome bay leaves, whole 
 pepper, one or two fhalots, and fome fweet herbs. Let 
 the top of the pan be covered quite clofe, then put it 
 into the oven, and it will be done in about fix hours.— 
 When enough, fkim off the fat clean, put the meat into 
 a difh, and ferve it up with lome dried fippets, and its 
 own liquor poured into the difh. 
 
 Leg of Beef. 
 
 TAKE a fine leg of beef, cut off all the meat, and 
 let the bones be well broken in pieces. Put the whole 
 into an earthen pan, with two onions and a bundle of 
 fweet herbs, and feafon it with a fpoonful of whole pep¬ 
 per, and a few cloves and blades of mace. Cover it 
 with water, and having tied the top of the pot quite 
 clofe with brown paper, put it into the oven to bake.— 
 When enough, fkim off the fat, drain the liquor through 
 a fjeve, pick out all the fat and Gnews, and put them 
 into a faucepan with a little of the gravy, and a piece of -* 
 butter rolled in flour. Set the faucepan on the fire. 
 
 fluke 
 
MEAT. 59 
 
 {hake it often, and when it is thoroughly hot, pour it 
 into the difh with the meat, and fend it to table—-Ox- 
 cheek may be done in the fame manner, and if the liquor 
 fhould be too ftrong, you may weaken it by pouring in 
 a moderate quantity of boiling water. 
 
 CalJ's Head. 
 
 WHEN you have properly cleanfed the head, put it 
 into a larger earthen difh, or pan, and rub the infide with 
 butter. Put fome long iron fkewers acrofs the top of 
 the difh, and lay the head on them. Grate fome nut¬ 
 meg all over the head, with a few fweet herbs fhred 
 fmall, fome crumbs of bread, and a little lemon-peel 
 cut fine. Then flour it all over, flick pieces of butter 
 in the eyes, and on different parts of the head, and fend 
 it to the oven. You may throw a little pepper and fait 
 over it, and put into the dilh a bunch of fweet herbs, 
 an onion, a blade of mace, fome whole pepper, two 
 cloves, and a pint of water, and boil the brains with 
 fome fage. When the head is enough, lay it on a difh, 
 and put it before the fire to keep warm; then ftir all 
 together in the difh, and put it into a faucepan, and 
 when it is quite hot drain it off, and pour it into the 
 faucepan again. Put in a piece of butter rolled in flour, 
 the fage and brains chopped fine, a lpoonful of catchup, 
 and two of red wine. Boil them well together, pour the 
 whole over the head in a difh, and fend it to table. 
 
 Pigs. 
 
 LAY your pig into a difh well buttered, flour it all 
 over, rub fome butter on the pig, and fend it to the 
 oven. When you think it is enough take it out, rub it 
 over with a buttered cloth, and put it into the oven 
 again till it is dry ; then take it out, lay it in a difh, and 
 cut it up. Skim off the fat from the difh it was baked 
 in, and fome good gravy will remain at the bottom. 
 Put this to a little veal gravy, with a piece of butter 
 rolled in flour, and boil it up with the brains; then pour 
 it into a dilh, and mix it well with the fage that comes 
 out of the belly of the pig. Serve it up hot to table with 
 apple-fauce and muftard. 
 
 H a 
 
 A 
 
6o 
 
 BAKING 
 
 A Bullock's or Calf's Heart. 
 
 TAKE Tome crumbs of bread, chopped diet, (or a 
 bit of butter) parfley chopped, fvveet marjoram, lemon- 
 peel grated, pepper, fait and nutmeg, with the yolk of 
 an egg; mix ihefe all well together, Huff the heart with 
 it, and fend it to the oven. When done, ferve it up 
 with gravy, melted butter, and currant jelly in boats. 
 The fame methods lire to be ufed whether you bake or 
 road it; but if care is taken, baking it is the bed way, 
 as it will be more regularly done than it can be by 
 roading. 
 
 S E C T. II. 
 
 BAKING FISH. 
 
 Cod's Head. 
 
 WHEN it is thoroughly cleanfed and wafhed, lay it 
 in the difh, which you mud fird rub round with butter. 
 Put in a bunch of fweet hetbs, an onion duck with 
 doves, three or four blades of mace, fome black and 
 white pepper, a nutmeg bruifed, a little lemon-peel, a 
 piece of horfe radiHi, and a quart of water. Dud the 
 head w-ith flour, grate a little nutmeg over it, dick bits 
 of butter on various parts, and fprinkle rafpings all over 
 it, and fend it to the oven. When done, take the head 
 out of the difh, and put it into that it is to be ferved 
 up in. Set the difh over boiling water, and cover it 
 clofe, to prevent its getting cold. In the mean time, 
 as expediiioufly as you can, pour all the liquor out of 
 the difh in which it was baked into a faucepan, and let 
 it boil three or four minutes; then drain it, and put to 
 it a gill of red wine, two fpoonsful of catchup, a pint 
 of fhrimps, half a pint of oydtrs, a fpoonful of mudi- 
 room pickle, and a quartern of butter rolled in flour. 
 Stir all well together, and let it boil till it is thick; 
 then drain it and pour it into the difh. Have ready 
 fome poaded bread cut three-corner-ways, and fried 
 crilp. Stick fome pieces of the toad about the head and 
 mouth, and lay the remainder round the head. Garnifh 
 
 your 
 
FISH. - 61 
 
 your difh with crifped parfley, lemon notched, and 
 fcraped horfe-radifh. 
 
 Salmon. 
 
 TAKE a piece of falmon of five or fix pounds weight, 
 (oi larger according to your company) and cut it into 
 fliccs about an inch thick, after which make a forcemeat 
 thus: Take fome of the flefh of the falmon, and the 
 fame quantity of the meat of an eel, with a few mufh- 
 rooms. Seafon it with pepper, fait, nutmeg, and cloves, 
 and beat all together till it is very fine. Boil the crumb 
 of a roll in milk, and beat it up with four eggs till it is 
 thick ; then let it cool, add four more raw eggs to it, 
 and mix the whole well together. Take the fkin from 
 the falmon, ahd lay the flices in a difh. Cover every 
 flice with the force-meat, pour fome melted butter over 
 them, with a few crumbs of bread, and place oyfters 
 round the difh. Put it into the oven, and when it is 
 of a fine brown, pour over it a little melted butter, with 
 lome red wine boiled in it, and the juice of a lemon, and 
 ferve it up hot to table. 
 
 Carp. 
 
 TAKE a brace of carp, and having greafed the pan, 
 in which they are to be baked with butter, put them 
 into it. Let it be of (uch a fize as will hold them at 
 full length, otherwife they will be apt to break. When 
 you have put them into the pan, feafon them with a 
 little black and white pepper, mace, cloves, nutmeg, 
 a bunch of fweet herbs, an onion, and an anchovy : 
 then pour in a bottle of white wine, cover them clofe 
 and put them into the oven. If of a large fize they will 
 take an hour baking; but if final!, a , lefs time will 
 do. When enough, take them out of the pan, and lay 
 them in a difh. Set it over boiling water to keep it hot, 
 and cover it clofe. Pour all the liquor in which they 
 were baked into a faucepan; let it boil a minute or two, 
 drain it, and add half a pound of butter rolled in flour. 
 Keep ftirring it all the time it is boiling; fqueeze in the 
 juice of half a lemon, and put in a proper quantity of 
 fait, obferving to fkim all the fat off the liquor. Pour 
 
6 2 BAKING 
 
 the f^ice over the fi(h, Jay the roes round them, and 
 garnifh with lemon. 
 
 Eels and Lampreys. 
 
 CUT off their heads, gut them, and take out the 
 blood from the bone as clean as poffible. Make a 
 force-meat of fhrimps or oyfters chopped fmall, half a 
 penny loaf crumbled, a little lemon-peel fhred fine* the 
 yolks of two eggs, and a little fait, pepper, and nut¬ 
 meg. Put this into the bellies of the fifh, lew them up, 
 and turn them round on the difh. Put hour and butter 
 over them, pour a little water into the difh, and bake 
 them in a moderate oven. When done, take the gravy 
 from under them, and Ikirti off the fat; (train it through 
 a hair fieve, and add one tea-fpoenful of lemon-pickle, 
 two of browning, a large fpoonful of walnut-catchup, a 
 glafs of white wine, an anchovy, and a (lice of lemon. 
 Let it boil ten minutes, and thicken it with butter and. 
 Hour. Garnifh with lemon and crifped parfley. 
 
 Herrings. 
 
 SCALE, wafh, and dry them well in a cloth, then 
 lay them on a board, and take a little black pepper, a 
 few cloves, and plenty of fait: mix them together, and 
 rub the fiffi all over with it. Lay them ftraight in a pot, 
 cover them over with vinegar, put in a few bay leaves, 
 tie a ftrong paper over the top, and bake them in a mo¬ 
 derate oven. They may be eat either hot or cold ; and 
 if you ufe the beft vinegar, they will keep good for two 
 or three months. 
 
 Sprats may be done in the fame manner, and either of 
 them will furnifh an occafional and pleaffng reliffi. 
 
 Tar hot. 
 
 TAKE a difh about the ffze of the turbot, rub 
 butter thick all over it, throw on a little fait, a little 
 beaten pepper, half a large nutmeg, and l'ome parfley 
 chopped fine. Pour in a pint of white wine, cut off the 
 head and tail, and lay the turbot in the difh; pour an¬ 
 other pint of white wine all over, grate the other half of 
 the nutmeg over it, a little pepper, fome fait, and 
 
 chopped 
 
FISH. 63 
 
 chopped parfley. Lay a piece of butter here and there 
 all over, then ftrew it with flour and crumbs of bread. 
 Being thus prepared, fend it to the oven, and let it be 
 done of a fine brown colour. When you take it out, or 
 have it home, put the turbot into the difh in which you 
 mean to ferve it up, then ftir the fauce in the difh it was 
 baked in, pour it into a faucepan, fhake in a little 
 flour, let it boil, and then ftir in a piece of butter with 
 two fpoonfuls of catchup. When the whole boils, pour 
 it into bafons, and ferve it up with the fifh. Garnifh 
 your difh with lemon; and you may add what other fauce 
 you fancy, as fhrimps, anchovies, mufhrooms, &c. 
 
 Pike , with Force-meat. 
 
 PREPARE your pike thusGut it without cutting 
 it open, and take care it is well cleaned. Cut a notch 
 down the back from head to tail, turn it round, and 
 fallen the tail in the mouth. Make your force-meat 
 thus: Take the udder of a leg of veal, or the kidney 
 part of a loin of lamb, fome fat bacon cut in dice, the 
 fpawn or melt of the fifh, fome green onions, a mufhroom 
 or two, or truffles, parfley and fait, and a little nutmeg and 
 pepper ; add a bit of butter to fry it; chop it all well, 
 with the crumb of a French roll foaked in cream or milk. 
 Pound all together in a large mortar, with three or four 
 eggs; try if is feafoned to your mind, fill the belly of 
 your fifh with it, clofe up that part which was cut in the 
 back, and make it nice and even. Then take two or 
 three eggs, beat them up, daub the fifh well over with 
 it, and ftrew on fome crumbs of bread. Put it in a 
 gentle oven, and proportion the time according to the 
 fize of your fifh. When done ufe the following 
 fauce: take two or three ladles of good gravy, and add 
 to it three large fpoonful of whole capers, fome parfley 
 chopped fine, the juice of two lemons, and a little 
 minced fhalot. Pour this into a boat or bafon, and 
 ferve it up hot with your fifh. Garnifh with fried 
 parfley. 
 
 Mackarel. 
 
 CUT their heads off, wafh and dry them in a cloth, 
 cut them open, rub the bone with a little bay fait beat 
 
 fine i 
 
64 BROILING 
 
 fine; take fome mace, black and white pepper, and a 
 few cloves, all beat fine; lay them in a long pan, and 
 between every layer of fifh put two or three bay leaves, 
 and cover them with vinegar. Tie writing paper over 
 them firft, and then thick brown paper doubled. They 
 mult be put into a very flow oven, and will take a long 
 time doing. When they are enough, uncover them, and 
 let the|n fiand till they are cold; then pour away all the 
 vinegar they were boiled in, cover them with fome more 
 vinegar, and put in an onion ftuck with cloves. Send 
 them to a very flow oven again, and let them Hand two 
 hours. When completely done, put them afide, and 
 they will keep good a confiderable time. When you 
 take them out, let it be with a flice, as your hands will 
 be apt to break, and fpoil them. They make a moft ex¬ 
 cellent occafional repalf. 
 
 CHAP. V. 
 
 BROILING. 
 
 I N this mode of cooking three things are to be prin¬ 
 cipally obferved. Firft, that your gridiron is tho¬ 
 roughly clean, and your fire quite clear. Secondly, 
 that you turn your meat quick and often while broiling, 
 as it will be a means of preferving the juices. And, 
 thirdly, to have your dilh placed on a chafing-difh of 
 hot coals, that by putting one piece after another into it 
 as they arc done, the whole may be taken quite hot to 
 table. 
 
 SECT I. 
 
 BUTCHER’S MEAT and POULTRY. 
 
 Beef Steaks. 
 
 LET your (leaks be cut off a rump of beef about 
 half an inch thick ; take care to have your fire clear, 
 and rub your gridiron well with beef fuet. When it is 
 
 hot 
 
MEAT, & c . 6s 
 
 hot lay on your (leaks : let them broil till the fide next 
 the fire is brown ; then turn them, and when the other 
 fide is brown, -lay them on a hoc difh, with a flice of 
 butter between each (leak ; lprinkle a little pepper and 
 fait over them, and let them (land two or three mi¬ 
 nutes ; in the mean time (lice a (ha lot as thin as pof- 
 fible into a fpoonful of water ; lay on your (leaks again, 
 and keep turning them till they are enough ; then put 
 them on your difh, pour the fhalot and water over them, 
 and fend them to table. Add for fauce horfe-radilh and 
 pickles. Garnifli with fcraped horfe-radifh. 
 
 Mutton Steaks. 
 
 CUT your (leaks' about half an inch thick, and if it 
 be the loin, take off the (kin with a part of the fat. 
 When your gridiron is hot, rub it with frefh fuet, lay 
 on your (leaks, and keep turning them as quick as 
 pofliole: if you do not take great care the fat that drops 
 from them into the fire will fmoak and fpoil them $ but 
 this may be in a great meafure prevented, by placing 
 your gridiron on a fiant. When enough put them into 
 a hot difh, rub them well with butter, flice a fhalot very 
 thin into a fpoonful of water, and pour it on them, with, 
 a lpoonful of catchup. Serve them up hot, with fcraped 
 horfe-radi(h and pickles. 
 
 Pork Chops. 
 
 IN broiling thefe the fame rules are to be obferved as 
 thofe given for mutton chops, except with this difference, 
 that they require more doing. When they are enough, 
 put a little good gravy to them ; and in order to give 
 them an agreeable flavour, drew over a little fage (hred 
 very fine. The only fauce is muftard. 
 
 Ox Palates. 
 
 PREPARE your palates for broiling thus: Having 
 peeled them, put into a (lew-pan a little butter rolled 
 ^n flour, fait and pepper, two fhahots, a clove of 
 •garlic, two cloves, parfley, a laurel leaf, thyme, and 
 as much milk as will fimmer your palates till tender. 
 When this is done, take them out, and rub over them 
 _No. II. - I tije' 
 
66 BROILING 
 
 the yolks of eggs with bread crumbs; then put them on 
 your gridiron, broil them flowly, and when enough ferve 
 them up with fharp fauce. 
 
 Chickens. 
 
 SLIT your chickens down the back, feafon them 
 with pepper and fait, and lay them on the gridiron over 
 a clear fire, and at a great diftance. Let the infides 
 continue next the fire till they are nearly half done ; then 
 turn them, taking care that the flefhy fides do not burn, 
 and let them broil till they are of a fine brown. Have 
 ready good gravy fauce, with fome mufhrocms, and 
 garnifh them with lemon and the livers broiled ; the 
 gizzards cut, fiafhed and broiled, with pepper and fait, 
 or you may make the following fauce: Take a handful 
 of forrel, and dip it in boiling water ;, then drain it, and 
 have ready half a pint of good gravy, a fhalot fhred 
 fmall, and fome parfley boiled very green; thicken it 
 with a piece of butter rolled' in flour, and add a glafs of 
 red wine; then lay your forrel in heaps round the 
 chickens, and pour the fauce over them. Garnifh with 
 fliced lemon. 
 
 Pigeons. 
 
 PIGEONS may be broiled either whole or flit, and 
 muft be done very flowly over a clear fire. If you 
 broil them whole, take fome parfley fhred fine, a piece 
 of butter as big as a walnut, with a little pepper and fait, 
 and put into their bellies, tying both ends with a bit of 
 coarfe thread. If you fplit them, feafon the infide with 
 pepper and fait; and when done, ferve them up with 
 parfley and butter poured over them.—They will be 
 quicker done by being flit; but the belt method is to 
 broil them whole. 
 
 S E C T. II. 
 
 BROILING FISH. 
 
 Frejh Salmon. 
 
 CUT fome flices from a frefh falmon, and wipe 
 them clean and dry; then melt fome butter fmooth and- 
 fine, with a little flour and bafket fair. Put the pieces 
 
 of 
 
F I S H. By 
 
 of falmon into it, and roll them about, that^they may 
 be covered all over with butter. Then lay them on 
 a nice clean gridiron, and broil them over a clear but 
 flow fire. While the falmon is broiling make your fauce 
 thus: Take two anchovies, wafh, bone, and cut them 
 into fmall pieces, and cut a leek into three or four long 
 pieces. Set on a faucepan with fome butter and a little 
 flour, put in the anchovies and leek, with fome capers 
 cut fmall, fome pepper and fait, and a little nutmeg; 
 add to them fome warm water, and two fpoonsful of 
 vinegar, fhaking the faucepan till it boils; and then 
 keep it on the fimmer till you are ready for it. When 
 the falmon is done on one fide, turn it on the other till 
 it is quite enough; then take the leek out of the fauce, 
 pour it into a difb, and lay the broiled falmon upon it. 
 Garnilh with lemons cut in quarters. 
 
 Dried Salmon. 
 
 LAY your dried falmon in foak for two or three 
 hours, then lay it on the gridiron, and fhake over it a 
 little pepper. It will rake but a fhort time, and when 
 done lcrve it up with melted butter. 
 
 Cod. 
 
 CUT the cod into dices about two inches thick, and 
 dry and flour them well. Make a good clear fire, rub 
 the gridiron with a piece of chalk, and fet it high from 
 the fire. Then put in your flices of fifh, turn them 
 often, and let them broil till they are of a fine brown 
 colour. Great care muft be taken in turning them that 
 they do not break. When done ferve them up with 
 lobfter and fhrimp fauce. 
 
 Crimped Cod , 
 
 TAKE a gallon of fpring water, put it into a 
 faucepan over the fire, and throw in a handful of fait. 
 Boil it up feveral times, and keep it clean feummed. 
 When it is well cleared from the feum, take a middling 
 fized cod, as frefh as poflible, and put it into fome frefh 
 pump-water. Let it lie a few minutes, and then cut ic 
 into flices about two inches thick. Throw thefe into the 
 
 l % boiling 
 
68 BROILING 
 
 boiling brine, and let them broil brifldy a few minutes. 
 Then take the dices out with great care that they may 
 rot break, and put them on "a fieve to drain. When 
 they are well dried, flour them, and lay them at a diftance 
 upon a very good fire to broil. When enough ferve 
 them up with lobfter, fhrimp, or oyfter fauce. 
 
 Cod Sounds. 
 
 LAY them a few minutes in hot water; then take 
 them out, rub them well with fait, and take off the 
 fkin and black dirt, that they may look white. After 
 this put them into water, and give them a boil, then 
 take them out, flour them well, drew on fome pepper 
 and fait, and lay them on the gridiron. When enough 
 lay them on your difh, and pour over them melted 
 butter and muflard. 
 
 Trout. 
 
 WHEN you have properly cleanfed your fifb, ar.d 
 made it thoroughly dry with a cloth, tie it round with 
 packthread from head to tail, in order to preferve its 
 fhape entire. Then melt fome butter, with a good deal 
 of bafket fair, and pour it all over the trout till it is 
 peifetflly covered: alter lying in it a minute or two, take 
 it out, and put it on the gridiron over a clear fire, that 
 it' may do gradually. For fauce, wafh and bone an 
 anchovy, and cut it very fmall; chop a large fpoonful 
 of capers; melt fome butter, with a little flour, pepper, 
 fait and nutmeg, and put it into the anchovy and capers, 
 with half a fpoonful of vinegar. When the trout is done, 
 lay it in a warm difh, pour your fauce boiling hot over 
 it, and fend it to table. 
 
 Mackarel. 
 
 WASH them clean, cut off their heads, and take out 
 the roes at the neck end. Boil the roes in a little water; 
 then bruife them with a fpoon, beat up the yolk of an 
 egg, with a little nutmeg ; a little lemon-peel cut fine, 
 fome thyme, parfley boiled and chopped fine, a little 
 fait and pepper, and a few crumbs of bread. Mix thefe 
 well together, and put it into the bellies of the fifh j 
 then flour them well, and broil them nicely. Let your 
 
 fuace 
 
FISH. 69 
 
 fauce be melted butter, with a little catchup or walnut 
 pickle. 
 
 Haddocks and Whitings . 
 
 WHEN you have gutted and clean wafhed them, dry 
 them well in a cloth, and rub a little vinegar over them, 
 which will prevent the fkin from breaking. Having 
 done this, dredge them well with flour, and before you 
 put them on, rub the gridiron well with beef fuet. Let 
 your gridiron be very hot when you lay your fifh on, 
 othcrwife they will flick to it, and the fifh be broke in 
 turning. While they are broiling, turn them two or 
 three times, and when enough ferve them up with plain 
 melted butter, or fhrimp fauce. 
 
 Another, and indeed a very excellent method of broil¬ 
 ing thele fifh is thus : When you have cleaned and dried 
 them as before-mentioned, put them into a tin oven, 
 and let them before a quick fire. As foon as the (kins 
 begin to rife, take them from the fire, and having beat 
 up an egg, rub it over them with a feather. Sprinkle a 
 few crumbs of bread over them, dredge them well with 
 flour, and rub your gridiron, when hot, with fuet or 
 butter. Lay on your fifh, and when you have turned 
 them, rub over a little butter, and keep turning them 
 till they are done, which will be known by their appear¬ 
 ing of a nice brown colour 3 when done, ferve them up 
 either with fhrimp fauce, or plain melted butter, and gar- 
 nifh with melted butter, or red cabbage. 
 
 Eels. 
 
 HAVING fkimmed, cleanfed, and dried your eels, 
 rub them with the yolk of an egg; drew over them 
 fome crumbs of bread, chopped parfley and fage, and 
 feafon them with pepper and fait. Bade them well with 
 butter, and then put them on the gridiron over a clear 
 fire. When done, ferve them up with melted butter and 
 parfley. 
 
 Eels pitch-cocked . 
 
 TAKE a large eel, and fcour it well with fait to clean 
 off all the flimej then flit it down the back, take out the 
 bone, and cut it into thiee or four pieces. Take the yolk 
 
 of 
 
 / 
 
70 FRYING 
 
 of an egg, and put it over the infide, iprinkle on crumbs 
 of bread, with fame fweet herbs and parfley chopped 
 very fine, a little nutmeg grated, and fome pepper and 
 fait mixed together. Then put it on a gridiron over a 
 clear fire, broil it of a fine light brown, and when enough, 
 ferve it up with anchovy fauce, and parfley and butter. 
 Garnifh with raw parfley and horfe-radifh. 
 
 Another method of pitch-cocking eels is, when you 
 have gutted, cleanfed, and properly dried them, fprinkle 
 them with pepper, fait, and alictledried fage, turn them 
 backward and forward, and fkewer them. Rub your 
 gridiron with beef-fuct, broil them a good brown, and 
 when done, put them into your difli, and ferve them up 
 with plain melted butter for fauce. Garnifh your difli 
 with fried parfley. 
 
 Herrings. 
 
 SCALE, gut, and cut off their heads; wafh them 
 clean, and dry them in a cloth; then dufl: them well 
 with flour and broil them. Take the heads, mafli 
 them, and boil them in fmall beer or ale, with a little 
 whole pepper and onion. When it is boiled a quarter 
 of an hour, drain it off, thicken it with butter and flour, 
 and a good deal of muftard. Lav the herrings, when 
 done, in a plate or difh, pour the fauce into a boar, and 
 ferve them up. 
 
 CHAP. V. 
 
 FRYING. 
 
 SECT. I. 
 
 BUTCHER’S MEAT, feV. 
 
 Venifon . 
 
 C UT your meat into flices, and make gravy of the 
 bones. Fry it of a nice brown, and when done 
 take it up, and keep it hot before the fire. Then put 
 fame butter, well rolled in flour, into the pan, and keep 
 
 ftirring 
 
M EAT. » 71 
 
 dirring it till it is quite thick and brown; blit be careful 
 that it does not burn. Stir in half a pound of fine fugar 
 beat to powder, put in the gravy made from the bones* 
 and fome red wine. Make it the thicknefs of a fine 
 cream iqueefe in the juice of a lemon, warm the venifon 
 in it, put it in the difh and pour the fauce over it. 
 
 Veal Cutlets . 
 
 CUT your veal into dices of a moderate thicknefs, 
 dip them in the yolk of eggs beat up fine, and drew over 
 them crumbs of bread, a few fweec herbs, fome lemon- 
 peel, and a little grated nutmeg. Then put them into 
 your pan, and fry them with frefh butter. While they 
 are frying, make a little good gravy, and when the meat 
 is done, take it out, and lay it in a difh before the fire. 
 Shake a little flour into the pan, and dir it round j put 
 in the gravy, with the juice of a lemon, dir the whole 
 well together, and pour it over the cutlets. Garnifh your 
 difh with diced lemon. 
 
 Neck or Loin of Lamb. 
 
 CUT your lamb into chops, ryb both fides with the 
 yolk of an egg, and fprinkle over them fome crumbs of 
 bread, mixed with a little pardey, thyme, marjoram, 
 winter favory, and a little lemon-peel, all chopped very 
 fine. Fry them in butter till they are of a nice light 
 brown, then put them into your difli, and garnidi with 
 crifped pardey. 
 
 Or you may drefs them thus: 
 
 Put your (leaks into the pan with half a pint of ale, 
 and a little fcafoning, and cover them clofe. When 
 enough take them out of the pan, lay them in a plate 
 before the fire to keep hot, and pour all out of the pan 
 into a bafon; then put in half a pint of white wine, a 
 few capers, the yolks of two eggs beat fine, with a little 
 nutmeg and fait j add to this the liquor they were fried in, 
 and keep dirring it one way all the time till it is thick * 
 then put in the chops, keep fhaking the pan for a mi¬ 
 nute or two, lay the chops in the difli, and pour the 
 fauce over them. Garnifh with crifped pardey and 
 lemon. 
 
 Sweet. 
 
72 
 
 FRYING 
 
 Sweetbreads • 
 
 CUT them into long dices, beat up the yolk of an eg g 3 
 and rub it over them with a feather. Make a fcafoning 
 of pepper, fait, and grated bread, ftrew this over them, 
 and fry them in butter. Serve them up with melted 
 butter and catchup, and garnilh with crifped parfley, and 
 very fmall thin dices of toadied bacon. 
 
 Calf’s Brains. 
 
 CUT the brains into four pieces, and foak them in 
 broth and white wine, with two dices of lemon put into 
 it, a little pepper and fait, thyme, laurel, cloves, pardey, 
 and fhalots. When they have remained in this about 
 half an hour, take them out and foak them in batter 
 made of white wine, a little oil, and a little fait, and 
 fry them of a fine colour. You may likewile ftrew over 
 them crumbs of bread mixed with the yolks of eggs. 
 Serve them up with plain melted butter, and garnilh with 
 fried pardey. 
 
 Beef-Steaks. 
 
 FRY your fteaks over a bride fire, with a little butter 
 in the pan, and when they are of a nice light brown, 
 take them out, and put them in a ditli before the fire.— 
 Then take half a pint of hot gravy, and put it into the 
 pan with a little pepper and fair, and two or three dialots 
 chopped fine. Boil them up in the pan for two or three 
 minutes, and then pour the whole over the fteaks. Gar¬ 
 nilh with feraped horfe-radilh. 
 
 Ox Tongues. 
 
 WHEN you have boiled the tongue till is tender, 
 cut it into dices, and feafon them with a little nutmeg, 
 pinnamon, and fugar. Then beat up the yolk of an 
 egg with a little lemon juice, and rub it over the dices 
 with a feather. Make fome butter boiling hot in the 
 frying-pan, and then put in the dices. When done, 
 ferve them up with melted butter, fugar, and white wine, 
 ail w r ell mixed together. 
 
 Ox Feet , or Cow Heel. 
 
 SPLIT the feet alunder, then take out all the bones, 
 and put the meat into the frying-pan with fome butter. 
 
 When 
 
MEAT, &c. ' 73 
 
 When it has fried a few minutes, put in fome mint and 
 parfiey fhred fmall, a little lair, and fome beaten butter. 
 Add likewife the yolks of two eggs beats fine, half a pint 
 of gravy, the juice of a lemon or orange, and a little 
 nutmeg. When the foot is done, take it out, put it into 
 your difh, and pour the fauce over it. 
 
 Tripe. 
 
 CUT your tripe into pieces about three inches fquare; 
 dip them in fome fmall beer batter, or yolks of eggs, 
 and have a good quantity of mutton or beef dripping in 
 your pan. Fry it till it is of a nice light brown, then 
 take it our, let it drain for a' minute, put it into your 
 dilh, and ferve it up with plain melted butter in a boat, 
 and muftard. 
 
 THE mode of frying faufages is fo fimple, and ge¬ 
 nerally known, that it needs no defcription. However, 
 we fhall notice one way, of which the cook may not be 
 informed. Take fix apples, and fiice four of them as 
 thick as a crown piece j cut the other two into quar¬ 
 ters, and take the cores clean out. Fry the dices with 
 the faufages till they are of a nice light brown colour. 
 When done put the faufages into the middle of the dilh, 
 and the apples round them. Gamifli with the apples 
 quartered. 
 
 Chickens . 
 
 CUT your, chickens into quarters, and rub them 
 with the yolk of an eggj then ftrew on fome crumbs of 
 bread, with pepper, lair, grated nutmeg and lemon- 
 peel, and chopped parfiey. Fry them in butter, and 
 when done put them into your.difh before the fire. For 
 fauce thicken fome gravy with a little flour, and put 
 into it a fmall quantity of chyan pepper, fome rnufhroom 
 powder, or catchup, and a little lemon-juice. When 
 it is properly heated, pour it over the chickens, and 
 ferve it up. 
 
 Artichoke Bottoms . 
 
 BLANCH them in water, then flour them, and fry 
 them in frefh butter. Lay them in your dilh, and pour 
 
 II. K melted 
 
74 FRYING 
 
 melted butter over them for fauce. Or you may put a 
 little red wine into the butter, and feafon with nutmeg, 
 pepper and fait. 
 
 Cdery. 
 
 TAKE fix or eight heads of frefh celery, and cut off 
 the green tops, with the outfide {talks. Walk them 
 well, and have the roots clean. Have ready a pint of 
 white wine, the yolks of three eggs beat fine, and a 
 little, fait and: nutmeg. Mix all well together with flour, 
 and make:,it into a batter, then dip every head into it, 
 put them into a, pan, and.fry them with butter. When 
 enough, lay them in your difh, and pour melted butter 
 over them for fauce. 
 
 Potatoes . 
 
 CUT your potatoes‘into thin flices, and fry them in 
 butter till they are nicely brown. Then lay them in a 
 difh or plate, and pour melted' butter over them for 
 fauce. - ■" > 1 1 
 
 •i > { • i , • • , • * . - • • ,* H i AS. ' : . 
 
 S E C T. II. 
 
 1 d • ’ u . i . *"».-) r * ’ ? ..".I i / * 
 
 FRYING FISH. 
 
 AS a necefiary prelude to our directions for frying 
 flfh, ic may not be improper to make the few following 
 general observations : When you fry any kind of fifli, 
 firft dry them in a cloth, and then flour them. Put into 
 your frying-pan plenty of dripping, or hog’s-lard, and 
 let it boil before you put it in a difh. When they are 
 properly fried, lay them in a difh, or hair fieve, to 
 drain. If you fry parfley, be fure to pick it very cau- 
 tioufly, wafh it well, dip it into cold water, and throw it 
 into a pan of boiling fat. This will make it very crifp, 
 and of a fine green, provided you do not let it remain 
 too long in the pan ; but this you may prevent by its 
 appearance while doing. 
 
 Turbot. 
 
 HAVING properly cleanfed your filh (which in this 
 mode of dreffing muft be fmall) and thoroughly dried ir, 
 
 ftrew 
 
FISH; 75; 
 
 ftrew on fome flour, and put it into your pan, with a 
 fufficient quantity of hot lard to cover it. When it is 
 fried nice and brown, take it carefully out, and tho¬ 
 roughly drain the fat from it. In the mean time clean 
 the pan, put into it as much claret and white wine as 
 will nearly cover the fifli, with an anchovy, fair, nutmeg, 
 and a little ginger. Put in.the turbot, and let it remain 
 in the liquor till it is half wafted ; then take it out, and 
 put in a piece of butter rolled in flour, and a minced 
 lemon. Let them fimmer together till of a proper 
 thicknefs, then rub a hot difh with a piece of flialot, lay 
 the turbot in the difh, pour over the fauce, and ferve it 
 up. You may like wife add plain melted butter in a 
 bafon. 
 
 Carp. 
 
 AFTER having cleaned your fifh, lay them in a 
 doth to dry, then flour them, put them into the pan, 
 and fry them of a fine light brown. Take fome crufts 
 of bread, cut them three-corner-ways, and fry them with 
 the roes of the fifh. When your fifh are nicely fried, lay 
 them on a coarfe cloth to drain, and prepare anchovy 
 fauce, with the juice of a lemon. Lay your carp in the 
 difh, with the roes on each fide, and garnifh with the 
 fried cruft and flices of lemon. 
 
 Tench , 
 
 SLIT the fifli along the backs, and raife the fiefh 
 from the bone; then cut the fkin acrofs at the head and 
 tail, ftrip it clean off, and take out the bone. Having 
 thus prepared them for frying, take one of them, and 
 mince the flefli very fmall, with muftirooms, chives, 
 and parfley chopped fine; a little fait, pepper, beaten 
 mace, nutmeg, and a few favory herbs. Mix thefe 
 well together, then pound them in a mortar, and crumbs 
 of bread foaked in cream, the yolks of three or four 
 eggs, and a piece of butter; and with this compofition 
 fluff your fifli. Put clarified butter into your pan, fee 
 it over the fire, and when it is hot ftrew fome flour on 
 your fifh, and put them in one by one. When they have 
 fried till they are of a nice brown colour, take them up, 
 
 K % and 
 
76 FRYING 
 
 and lay them in a coarfe cloth before the fire to keep 
 hot. Then pour all the fat out of the pan, put in a 
 quarter of a pound of butter, and fhake in fome flour. 
 Keep it ftirring with a fpoon till the butter is a little 
 brown, and then put in half a pint of white wine. Stir 
 them together, and put in half a pint of boiling water, 
 an onion flared with cloves, a bunch of fweet-herbs, and 
 two blades of mace. Cover thefe clofe, and let them 
 flew as gently as you can for a quarter of an hour; then 
 ftrain off the liquor, and put them into the pan again, 
 adding two fpoonfuls of catchup, an ounce of truffles 
 or morels boiled tender in half a pint of water, a few 
 muflarooms, and half a pint of oyflers, wafhed clean in 
 their own liquor. When your fauce is properly heated, 
 and has a good flavour, put in your tench, and let them 
 lay in it till they are thoroughly hot; then take them 
 out, lay them in your difh, and pour the fauce ove-r 
 them. Garnifh with diced lemon. The fame methods 
 may be ufed in frying of carp. 
 
 Soals. 
 
 TAKE off the fkln, rub the fifli over with the yolk 
 of an egg, and drew on them crumbs of bread. Fry 
 them in hog’s-lard over a brifk fire, till they are of a fine 
 light brown. Then take them up, drain them, put them 
 into your difh, and lerve them up with plain melted 
 butter in a boat. Garnifh with green pickles. 
 
 Smelts. 
 
 BE careful to take away the gills, but leave in the roes. 
 After you have wafhed them, dry them well in a cloth, 
 then beat up an egg very fine, rub it over them with a 
 feather, and flrcw on crumbs of bread. Fry them in 
 hog’s-lard over a brifk file, and put them in when the fat 
 is boiling hot. When they are done of a fine brown, 
 take them out, and drain the fat from them, and w'hen 
 you difh them up, put a bafon with the bottom upwards, 
 into the middle of your difh, and lay the tails of your 
 fifh on the fide of jt. Garnifh with fried parfley. 
 
 Eds. 
 
 AFTER having properly cleaned them, and taken off 
 the heads, cut them into pieces, feafon them with pep¬ 
 per 
 
F I S H. 77 
 
 per and fait, ftrew on fome flour, and fry them till they 
 are of a fine brown colour. Drain them properly before 
 you lay them in the difh. Serve them up with melted 
 butter and the juice of a lemon fqueezed into it. Gar- 
 nifh with crifped parfley. 
 
 Lampreys. 
 
 WHEN you cut them open to clean them, be careful 
 to fave the blood, and wafh them thoroughly clean in 
 warm water. Fry them in clean dripping, and when 
 nearly enough, put out the fat, put a little white wine, 
 and give the pan a fhake round. Throw in a little pep¬ 
 per, with fome fweet-herbs, a few capers, a piece of 
 butter rolled in flour, and the blood you faved from the 
 fifh. Cover the pan clofe, and fhake it often. When 
 they are enough, take them out, ftrain the fauce, put it 
 into the pan again, and give it a quick boil. Squeeze 
 in the juice of a lemon, ftir all together, and when it 
 is juft upon the boil, pour it over the fifh, and ferve it 
 up. Garnifh with diced lemon. 
 
 Mullets. 
 
 SCORE the fifh acrofs the back, and dip them in 
 melted butter. Fry them in butter clarified, and when 
 enough, lay them on a warm difh. Serve them witli 
 plain melted butter or anchovy fauce. 
 
 Herrings. 
 
 FIRST fcrape off all the fcales, then wafh them, 
 dry them well in a cloth, and dredge them with flour. 
 Fry them in butter over a brifk fire, and when done, 
 fet their tails up one againft another in the middle of the 
 difh. Fry a large handful of parfley crifp, take it out 
 before it lofes its colour j lay it round the fifh, and ferve 
 them up with tilted butter, parfley, and muftard. 
 
 Oyjlers. 
 
 THE largeft oyfters you can get fhould be chofen for 
 frying. W hen you have properly cleaned and rinced them, 
 ftrew over them a little grated nutmeg, a blade of mace 
 pounded, a fpoonful of flour, and a little fait. Dip 
 your oyfters ftngly into this, and fry them in hog’s-lard 
 
 till 
 
73 STEWING 
 
 till they are of a nice brown colour. Then take them 
 out of the pan, put them into your difh, and pour over 
 them a little melted butter, with* crumbs of bread mixed. 
 
 CHAP. VII. 
 
 STEWING. 
 
 SECT. ,1. 
 
 BUTCHER’S MEAT. 
 
 Fillet of Veal. 
 
 T AKE the fillet of a cow-calf, fluff it-well under the 
 udder, and at the bone-end quite through to the 
 fhank. Put it into the oven, with a pint of water under 
 it, till it is a fine brown j then put it into a flew-pan, 
 with three pints of gravy. Stew it till it is tender, and then 
 put a few morels, truffles, a tea-fpoonful of lemon- 
 pickle, a large one of browning, one of catchup, and a 
 little chyan pepper. Thicken it with a lump of butter 
 rolled in flour. Take out your veal, and put it into your 
 difh, then ftrain the gravy, pour it over, and lay round 
 force-meat balls. Garnifh with diced lemon and pickles. 
 
 Breaf of Veal. 
 
 PUT a breaft of veal into the flew-pan with a little 
 broth, a glafs of white wine, a bunch of fweet herbs, a 
 few mufhroorns, a little cinander tied in a bag, two or 
 three onions, with fome pepper and fait. Stew it over 
 a gentle fire till it is tender; and when done firain and 
 fcum the lauce, put the meat into your difh, and pour 
 the fauce over, Garnifh with fcrce-meat balls. 
 
 Knuckle of Veal. 
 
 LAY at the bottom of your faucepan four wooden 
 fkewers crofs-ways, then put in the veal, with two or 
 three blades of mace, a little whole pepper, a piece of 
 thyme, a frnali onion, a cruft of bread, and two quarts 
 
 of 
 
MEAT. 7$ 
 
 ©f water. Cover it down clofe, make it boil, and then 
 only let it firmer for two hours. When enough, take 
 it up, put it into your difb, and drain the liquor over it* 
 Garnifh with lemon. 
 
 Neck of Veal. 
 
 LARD it with large pieces of bacon rolled in pepper, 
 and fait, fhalots and lpices. Put it into your dew-pan, 
 with about three pints of broth, two onions, a laurel 
 leaf, and a little brandy. Let it fimmer gently till it is 
 tender, then put it into your difh, take the fcum clean 
 off the liquor, and then pour it on the meat. 
 
 Calf's Head. 
 
 AFTER having properly cleaned the head, put it 
 into cold water, and let it lay for an hour j then carefully 
 take out the brains, the tongue, the eyes and the bones* 
 Then take a pound of veal and a pound of beef fuet, a 
 very little thyme, a good deal of lemon-peel minced, a 
 nutmeg grated, and two anchovies; chop all very fine, 
 then grate two dale rolls, and mix the whole together with 
 the yolks of four eggs; fave enough of this to make 
 about twenty balls. Take half a pint of frelh mulh- 
 rooms clean peeled and walked, the yolks of fix eggs, 
 beat fine, half a pint of oyders clean walked, or pickled 
 cockles ; mix thefe all together, after fird dewing your 
 oyders. Put the force-meat into the head and clofe it; 
 tie it tight with packthread, and put it into a deep dew- 
 pan, with two quarts of gravy and a blade or two of 
 mace. Cover it clofe and let it dew two hours. In the 
 mean time, beat up the brains with fome lemon-peel cut 
 fine, a little parfley chopped, half a nutmeg grated, and 
 the yolk of an egg. Have fome dripping boiling, and 
 fry half the brains in little cakes; fry all the forcemeat 
 balls, and keep them both hot by the fire. Take half an 
 ounce of truffles and morels, then drain the gravy the 
 head was dewed in, and put the truffles and morels to it, 
 with a few mulhrooms. Boil all together, then put in 
 the red of the brains, dew them together for a minute or 
 two, pour the whole over the head, and lay the cakes of 
 fried brains and forcemeat balls round it. Garnifh with 
 
 lemon. 
 
So STEWING 
 
 lemon.—For a fmall family* the half of a head may be 
 done equally fine, only properly proportioning the quan^ 
 tity of the refpedtive articles.—A lamb’s head muft be 
 done in the very fame manner. 
 
 Calf's Liver. 
 
 LARD the liver, and put it into a ftew-pan, with 
 fome fait, whole pepper, a bunch of fweet herbs, an 
 onion, and a blade of mace. Let it ftew till tender, then 
 take it up, and cover it to keep hot. Strain the liquor it 
 was Hewed in, fcum off all the fat, thicken it with a piece 
 of butter rolled in flour, and pour it over the liver. 
 
 Rump of Beef. 
 
 HALF roaft your beef, then put it into a (lew-pan, 
 with two quarts of water, and one of red wine, two or 
 three blades of mace, a fhalot, one fpoonful of lemon 
 pickle, two of walnut catchup, and the fame of brown¬ 
 ing. Put in chyan pepper and fait to your tafte.— 
 Cover it clofe, and let it ftew over a gentle fire for two 
 hours; then take up your beef, and lay it in a deep 
 difh, fcum off the fat, and ftrain the gravy ; put in an 
 ounce of morels, and half a pint of mufhroom; thicken 
 your gravy, and pour it over the beef. Garnifh with 
 force-meat balls and horfe-radifh. 
 
 Beef Steaks . 
 
 PEPPER and fait your fteaks, and lay them in a 
 ftew-pan. Put in half a pint of water; a blade or two 
 of mace, an anchovy, a fmall bunch of herbs, a piece 
 of butter rolled in flour, a glafs of white wune, and an 
 onion. Cover the whole clofe, and let it ftew till the 
 fteaks are tender; then take them out, ftrew fome flour 
 over them, fry them in frefh butter till they are of a 
 nice brown, and then pour off all the fat. Strain the 
 fauce they were ftewed in, pour it into the pan, and tofs 
 it up all together till the fauce is quite hot and thick. 
 Then lay your fteaks in the difb, pour the fauce over 
 them, and garnifh with horfe-radifh and pickles. 
 
 Beef Gobbets. 
 
 TAKE any piece of Beef, except the leg, cut it into 
 fmall pieces, and put them into a ftew-pan. Cover 
 
 them 
 
MEAT. 81 
 
 them with water,vand when they have ftewed an hour, 
 put in a little mace, cloves, and whole pepper, tied 
 loofely in a muflin rag, with Tome celery cut fmall. 
 Then add fome fait, turnips, and carrots pared and cut in 
 flices, a little parfley, a bunch of fweet herbs, a large cruft 
 of bread, and an ounce either of barley or rice. Cover 
 it clofe, and let it ftew till it is tender. Then take out 
 the herbs, fpices, and bread, and have ready a French 
 roll nicely toafted, and cut into four parts. Put thefe into 
 your difh, pour in the meat and fauce, and fend it hot to 
 table. 
 
 Neat's Tongue. 
 
 PUT the tongue into your ftew-pan, with a fufficient 
 quantity of water to cover it. When it has ftewed about 
 two hours, take it out, peel it, and put it in again, 
 with a pint of ftrong gravy, half a pint of white wine, a 
 bunch of fweet-herbs, a little pepper and fait, fome mace, 
 cloves, and whole pepper, tied in a muflin rag; add 
 likewile a fpoonful of capers chopped fine, fome turnips, 
 and carrots diced, and a piece of butter rolled in flour. 
 Let the whole ftew together very gently for two hours ; 
 then take out the fpice and fweet herbs, put the tongue 
 into your difh, ftrain the fauce, pour it over, and ferve 
 it up. 
 
 Ox Palates. 
 
 LAY your palates in warm water for half an hour, 
 then wafh them clean, put them into a pot, cover it 
 with brown paper, tie it down clofe, and fend it to the 
 oven with as much water as wijl cover them. Let them 
 continue there till they are tender, then fkin them, and 
 cut them into pieces about half an inch in breadth, and 
 three inches long. Put them into a ftew-pan, with a 
 pint of veal gravy, one fpoonful of Madeira wine, the 
 fame of catchup and browning, one onion ftuck with 
 cloves, and a dice of lemon. Stew them half an hour, 
 then take out the onion and lemon, thicken your fauce, 
 and pour the whole into a difh. Have ready boiled fome 
 artichoke bottoms, cut them into quarters, and lay them 
 over the palates, with force-meat balls and morels. Garnilh 
 with diced lemon, 
 
 III, 
 
 L, 
 
 SEC To 
 
82 
 
 STEWING 
 
 SECT. II. 
 
 STEWING POULTRY, fcV. 
 
 _ . # 
 
 Turkics. 
 
 I . 
 
 IN order to prepare a turkey properly for {tewing, 
 you mult make force-meat for fluffing in the following 
 manner: Take the fleffl of a fowl, the fame of two 
 pigeons, hall a pound of veal, and a pickled or dried 
 tongue peeled. Mince thefe all very fmall, then beat 
 them in a mortar, with the marrow of a beef bone, or a 
 pound of the fat from a loin of veal. Seafon it with 
 pepper and fait, two or three blades of mace, as many 
 cloves, and half a nutmeg grated fine. Mix all well 
 together, and put it into the body of your turkey. Lay 
 at the bottom of your ftew-pan four flee we rs crofs-ways, 
 and then put in the turkey, with a quart of good beef or 
 veal gravy (in which fweet-herbs and fpice have been 
 boiled), and cover it clofe. When it has ftewed half an 
 hour, put in a glafs of white wine, a fpoonful of catchup, 
 the fame of pickled muffirooms, and a few freffi ones, if 
 in feafon i a few truffles and morels, and a fmall piece 
 of butter rolled in flour. Cover it clofe, and let it flew 
 half an hour longer. Have fome fmall French rolls 
 ready fried, and get fome oyfters, and {train the liquor from 
 them: then put the liquor and oyfters into a laucepan, 
 with a blade of mace, a little white wine, and a piece of 
 butter rolled in flour. Let thefe flew till it is very thick, 
 and then fill the loaves with it. Lay the Turkey in your 
 difh, and pour the fauce over it. If there is any fat on 
 the gravy, take it off, and lay the loaves on each fide of 
 the turkey. If you have no loaves, garnifh with lemon, 
 or fried oyfters. 
 
 Fowls. 
 
 PURSUE the fame method, at firft, in ftewing fowls 
 as you do turkies; that is to fay, put fkewers crofs-ways 
 at the bottom of your ftew-pan. When you have laid 
 in your fowl, put to it a quart of gravy, a bunch of 
 celery clean waffled and cut very fmall, with two or three 
 
 blades 
 
POULTRY. 83 
 
 blades of mace. Let it flew gently till the liquor is re¬ 
 duced to a quantity only fufficient for fauce ; then add a 
 large piece of butter rolled in flour, two fpoonsful of red 
 wine, the fame quantity of catchup, with pepper and fait 
 to feafon it. Lay your fowl in the difh, pour the fauce over 
 it, and fend it to table. 
 
 Chickens, 
 
 HALF boil them in as much water as will juft cover 
 them, then take them out, cut them up, and take out the 
 bread-bones. Put them into your ftew-pan with the li¬ 
 quor, and add a blade of mace, and a little fait. Cover 
 the pan clofe, and fet it over a flow fire. Let it ftew till 
 the chickens are enough, then put the whole into your 
 difh, and ferve it to table. 
 
 Goofe Giblets . 
 
 PUT them into fcalding water, by which you will be 
 enabled to make them properly clean. When this is 
 done, cut the neck into four pieces, the pinions in two, 
 and flice the gizzard. Put them into your ftew-pan with 
 two quarts of water, or, if you have it, mutton broth, with 
 fome fweet-herbs, an anchovy, a few pepper corns, three 
 or four cloves, a fpoonful of catchup, and an onion. When 
 the giblets are tender, putdn a fpoonful of good cream, 
 thicken it with flour and butter, then pour the whole into 
 a foup-dilh, with fippets of bread at the bottom, and ferve 
 it up. 
 
 Ducks. 
 
 TAKE two ducks properly picked and drawn, duft 
 them with flour, and fet them before the fire to brown. 
 Then put them into a ftewpan, with a quart of water, 
 a pint of red wine, a fpoonful of walnut catchup, the 
 fame of browning, an anchovy, half a lemon, a clove 
 of garlic, a bunch of fweet-herbs, with chyan pepper 
 and fait to your tafte. Let them ftew gently for half an 
 hour, or till you find them tender; then lay them on a 
 difh, and keep them hot. Skim off the fat from the 
 liquor in which they were ftewed, (train it through a 
 hair fieve, add to it a few morels and truffles, boil it 
 
 ' L z quick 
 
8 4 STEWING 
 
 quick till reduced to little more than half a pint, then pour 
 it over your ducks, and ferve them up. 
 
 Duck with Green Peas. 
 
 PUT into your ftew-pan a piece of frefh butter, and 
 fet it on the fire; then put in your duck, and turn it in 
 the pan two or three minutes: take out the fat, but 
 let the duck remain. Put to it a pint of good gravy, a 
 pint of peas, two lettuces cut fmall, a bunch of fweet- 
 herbs, and a little pepper and fait. Cover them clofe, 
 and let them (lew for half an hour, now and then fhaking 
 the pan. When they are juft done, grate in a little nut¬ 
 meg, with a fmall quantity of beaten mace, and thicken 
 it either with a piece of butter rolled in Pour, or the yolk 
 of an egg beat up with two or three fpoonsful of cream. 
 Shake it all together for three or four minutes, then take 
 out the Jweet-herbs, lay the duck in the difh, and pour 
 the fauce over it. Garnilh with boiled mint chopped 
 very fine. 
 
 ■ Pigeons. 
 
 PUT into the bodies of your pigeons a feafoning made 
 with pepper and fait, a few cloves and mace, fome fweet 
 herbs, and a piece of butter rolled in flour. Tie up the 
 necks and vents, and half roafl them. Then put them 
 into a flewpan, with a quart of good gravy, a little 
 white wine, a few pepper corns, three or four blades of 
 mace, a bit of lemon, a bunch of fweet-herbs, and a fmall 
 onion. Stew them gently till they are enough; then 
 take the pigeons out, and drain the liquor through a 
 fieve; fcum it and thicken it in your ftew-pan, with a 
 piece of butter rolled in flour; then put in the pigeons, 
 with fome pickled mufnrooms; ftew it about five mi¬ 
 nutes, put the pigeons into a difh, and pour the fauce over 
 them. 
 
 Pheafants. 
 
 PUT into your ftew-pan, with the pheafant, as much 
 veal broth as will cover it, and let it ftew till there is juft 
 enough liquor left for fauce. Then fcum it, and put 
 In artichoke bottoms parboiled, a little beaten mace, a 
 
POULTRY, a 85 
 
 glafs of wine, and fome pepper and fait. If it is not fuf- 
 ficiently fubftantial, thicken it with a piece of butter rolled 
 in flour, and fqueeze in a little lemon-juice. Then take 
 up the pheafant, pour the fauce over it, and put force-meat 
 balls into the difh. 
 
 Partridges. 
 
 TRUSS your partridges in the fame manner as for 
 roafting, ftufFthe craws, and lard them down each fide of 
 the bread ■, then roll a lump of butter in pepper, fait, and 
 beaten mace, and put into the bellies. Sew up the vents, 
 dredge them well with flour, and fry them of a light brown 
 colour. Then put them into a ftew-pan, with a quart of 
 good gravy, a fpoonfui of Madeira wine, the fame of 
 catchup, a tea-fpoonful of lemon-pickle, half the quantity 
 of muibroom-powder, one anchovy, half a lemon, and a 
 fprig of fweet-marjoram. Cover the pan dole, and flew 
 them half an hour; then take them out, and thicken the 
 gravy. Boil it a little, and pour it over the partridges, 
 and lay round them artichoke bottoms boiled and cut in 
 quarters, and the yolks of four hard eggs. Woodcocks 
 muft be ftewed in the fame manner. 
 
 Cucumbers. 
 
 PARE twelve middle-fixed cucumbers, flice them 
 about the thicknefs of a half-crown, and lay them in a 
 coarfe cloth to drain. When quite dry, flour them, and 
 fry them in frefii butter till they are brown j then take 
 them out with an egg-flice, and lay them on a plate be¬ 
 fore the fire. Take a large cucumber, cut a long piece 
 out of the fide, and fcoop out all the pulp. Have 
 ready fome onions nicely fried, fill the cucumber with 
 thefe, and feafon with pepper and fair, then put in the 
 piece that was cut out, and tie it round with packthread. 
 Flour it, and fry it till it is brown; then take it out of 
 the pan, and keep it hot. Let the pan remain on the 
 fire, and while you are putting in a little flour with one 
 hand, keep fiirring it with the other. When it is thick, 
 put in two or three fpoonsful of water, half a pint of 
 white or red wine, and two fpoonsful of catchup. Stir 
 $hem together^ and add three blades of mace, four 
 
 cloves, 
 
86 STEWING 
 
 cloves, half a nutmeg grated, and a little pepper and fait 
 all beat fine together. Stir it into the faucepan, and then 
 throw in your cucumbers. Let them (lew for two or 
 three minutes, then lay the whole cucumber in the mid¬ 
 dle of your difh, having firft untied it, the reft round it, 
 and pour the fauce all over. Garnijfh the difh with fried 
 onions. 
 
 Peas and Lettuce. 
 
 PUT a quart of green peas, and two large lettuces 
 waftied clean, and cut fmall acrofs, into a ftew-pan, with 
 a quart of gravy, and ftew them till they are tender. 
 Put in a piece of butter rolled in flour, and feafoned 
 with pepper and fait. When of a proper thicknefs, difh 
 them up, and fend them to table. Inftead of butter yoa 
 may thicken them with the yolks of four eggs, and if you 
 put two or three thin rafhers of lean ham at the bottom of 
 the ftew-pan, it will give the whole a very fine flavour. 
 
 SECT III. 
 
 STEWING FISH. 
 
 Carp and Tench. 
 
 HAVING fealed and gutted your fifh, wafli them 
 thoroughly clean, dry them with a cloth, ftrew over 
 fome flour, and fry them in dripping, or fweet-rendered 
 iuet, till they are of a light brown. Then put them 
 into a ftew-pan, with a quart of water, the fame quan¬ 
 tity of red wine, a large fpoonful of lemon-pickle, ano¬ 
 ther of browning, a little mufhroom-powder, chyan 
 pepper, a large onion ftuck with cloves, and a flick of 
 . horfe-radifh. (If carp, add the blood, which you myft 
 be careful to five when you kill them.) Cover your 
 pan clofe to keep in the fleam ■, and let them flew 
 gently over a flow fire till your gravy is reduced to juft 
 enough to cover them. Then take the fifh out, and 
 put them into the dith you intend for table. Set the 
 gravy again on the fire, and thicken it with a large lump 
 of butter rolled in flour; boil it a little, and then ftrain 
 
 it 
 
F I S H. 87 
 
 it over your fifh. Garnifh with pickled mufhrooms, 
 fcraped horfe-radifh, and the roes of the fifh, fome of 
 them fried and cut into fmall pieces, and the reft boiled. 
 Juft before you fend it up, lqueeze into the fauce the juice 
 of a lemon. 
 
 Barbel. 
 
 TAKE a large barbel, fcale, gut, and wafh it in vine¬ 
 gar and fait, and afterwards in clear water. Then put it 
 into a ftew pan, with a fufficiency of eel broth to cover it, 
 and add fome cloves, a bunch of fweet herbs, and a bit of 
 cinnamon. Let them ftew gently till the fifh is done, then 
 take it out, thicken the fauce with butter and flour, pour 
 it over the fifh, and lerve it up. 
 
 Trout. 
 
 . MAKE a fluffing with grated bread, a piece of butter, 
 chopped parfley, lemon-peel grated pepper, fait, nut¬ 
 meg, favory herbs, and the yolk of an egg, all well mixed 
 together. Fill the belly of your fifh with this, and then 
 put it into a ftew-pan, with a quart of good boiled gravy, 
 half a pint of Madeira wine, an onion, a little whole 
 pepper, a few cloves, and a piece of lemon-peel. Stew 
 it very gently over a flow fire, and when done, take out 
 the fifh, and add to the fauce a little flour mixed in fome 
 cream, a little catchup, and the juice of a lemon. Lee 
 it juft boil up, then ftrain it over your fifh, and ferve 
 it up. 
 
 Pike. 
 
 MAKE a browning with butter and flour, and put it , 
 into your ftew-pan with a pint of red wine, a faggot, four 
 cloves, a dozen of fmall onions half-boiled, with fome 
 pepper and fait. Cut your pike into pieces, put it in, and 
 let it ftew very gently. When done, take it out, and add 
 to the fauce two anchovies, and a fpoonful of capers chop¬ 
 ped fine. Boil it for a minute or tw r o, and then pour it 
 over the fifh. Garnifh with bread nicely fried, and cut 
 three-corner ways. 
 
 Cod. 
 
 CUT fome flices of cod, as for boiling, and feafon 
 them with grated nutmeg, pepper, fait, and fweet-herbs. 
 
 Put 
 
88 STEWING , 
 
 Put them into a dew-pan with half a pint of white wine 
 and a quarter of a pint of water. Cover them clofe, and 
 let them fimmer ton five or fix minutes. Then fqueeze 
 in the juice of a lemon, and add a few oyfters with their 
 liquor drained, a piece of butter rolled in flour, and a 
 blade or two of mace. Let them flew very gently, and 
 
 frequently (hake the pan to prevent its burning.-- 
 
 When the fifh is done, take Out the onion and fweet- 
 herbs, lay the cod in a warm difh, and drain the fauce 
 over it. 
 
 Soals, Plaife, and Flounders. 
 
 THE fame methods mud be taken for dewing either 
 of thefe kinds of fifh. Half fry them in butter, then take 
 them out of the pan, and put to the butter a quart of water, 
 two anchovies, and an onion fliced. When they have 
 boiled flowly for about a quarter of an hour, put your fifh 
 in again, and let them flew gently about twenty minutes; 
 then take out the fifh, and thicken the fauce with butter 
 and flour. Give the whole a gentle boil, then drain it 
 through a hair fieve over the fifh, and ferve them up with 
 cyder, cockle, or flirimp fauce. 
 
 Lampreys and Eels. 
 
 HAVING fkined, gutted, and thoroughly wafhed 
 your fifh, feafon them with fait, pepper; a little lemon- 
 peel Aired fine, mace, cloves, and nutmeg. Put fome 
 thin dices of butter into your dew-pan, and having rolled 
 your fifh round, put them in, with half a pint of good 
 gravy, a gill of white wine, a bunch of marjoram, winter 
 favory, thyme, and an onion diced. Let them dew over 
 a gentle fire, and keep turning them till they are tender. 
 Then take them out, and put an anchovy into the fauce. 
 Thicken it with the yolk of an egg beat very fine, or a 
 piece of butter rolled in flour. When it boils, pour it 
 over the fifh, and l'erve them to table. 
 
 Prawns, Shrimps, or Cray-fjh. 
 
 TAKE about two quarts of either of thefe fifh, and 
 pick out the tails. Put the bodies into your dew-pan, 
 with about a pint of white wine (or w ; ater with a fpoonful 
 
 of 
 
F I S H. I 89 
 
 ful of vinegar) and a blade of mace. Stew thefe a quarter 
 of an hour, then ftir them together and ftrain them. Hav¬ 
 ing done this, wafh out your pan, and put into it the 
 drained liquor and tails. Grate into it a frnall nutmeg, 
 put in a little fait, a quarter of a pound of butter rolled in 
 flour, and fhake it all together. Cut a thin Dice of bread 
 round a quartern loaf, toaft it brown on both fides, cut 
 it into fix pieces, lay it clofe together in the bottom of 
 your di(h x pour your fifh and fauce hot over it, and fend 
 it hot to table.—If cray-fifh, garnifh the difh with fome 
 of their biggeft claws laid thick round. 
 
 Oyfters. 
 
 STRAIN the liquor of your oyfters, and put it into 
 your faucepan with a little beaten mace, and thicken it 
 with flour and butter. Boil this three or four minutes, 
 then toaft a dice of bread, cut it into three-cornered pieces, 
 and lay them round the difh into which you intend to put 
 the oyfters. Then put into the pan a fpoonful of cream 
 with your oyfters, (hake them round, and let them ftew 
 till they are quite hot, but be careful they do not boil. 
 Pour them into a deep plate, or foup-difh, and ferve 
 them up.—Mod: kinds of fhell-fifh may be ftewed in the 
 fame manner. 
 
 Oyjlers fcolloped. 
 
 WASH them thoroughly clean in their own liquor, 
 and then put them into your fcollop fhells; ftrew over 
 them a few crumbs of bread. Lay a dice of butter on 
 the firft you put in, then more oyfters and bread, and 
 butter fucceflively till the fhell is full. Put them into a 
 Dutch oven to brown, and ferve them up hot in the 
 fhells. 
 
 WASH them very clean in feveral waters, then put 
 them into a ftew-pan, and cover them clofe. Let them 
 ftew till the fhells open, and then pick out the fifh clean, 
 one by one. Look under the tongue to fee if there be a 
 crab, and if you find one, throw that mufoel away.—> 
 You will like wife find a little tough article under the 
 III. M tongue 
 
 Mufcels 
 
go HASHING 
 
 tongue, which you muft pick off. Having thus properly 
 cleanfed them, put them into a faucepan, and to a quart 
 of mufcles, put half a pint of the liquor drained through 
 a fieve j add a few blades of mace, a lrnall piece of butter 
 rolled in flour, and let them flew gently. Lay lome 
 toafted bread in the difh, and when the mufcels are done, 
 pour them on it, and ferve them up. 
 
 CHAP. VIII. 
 
 MASHING AND MINCING, 
 
 S E C T. I. 
 
 BUTCHER’S M EAT. 
 
 Calf’s Head. 
 
 A S a whole calf’s head is rather too large for the con- 
 fumption of moft families at one time, and as we 
 mean to confine our receipts within fuch compafs as may, 
 with equal convenience and pleafure, iuit all, lb we fha}l 
 here give directions for halhing only one half obferving, 
 that fhould there be occafion for doing the whole, it is only 
 doubling the ingredients here given for a part. 
 
 Walh the head as clean as poflible, and then boil it a 
 quarter of an hour. When cold cut the meat, as alfo the 
 tongue, into thin broad dices, and put them into a ftewing- 
 pan, with a quart of good gravy. When it has flewed 
 three quarters of an hour, put in an anchovy, a little beaten 
 mace, chyan pepper, two fpoonsful of lemon pickle, the 
 fame quantity of walnut catchup, half an ounce of truffles 
 and morels, a dice or two of lemon, fome fweet-herbs, 
 and a glals of white wine. Mix a quarter of a pound of 
 butter with fome flour, and put it in a few minutes before 
 the meat is done. In the mean time put the brains into 
 hot water, and beat them fine in a baton ; then add two 
 eggs, a fpoonful of dour, a bit of lemon-peel Aired fine. 
 
MEAT. 91 
 
 and a little parfley, thyme, and fage chopped fmall. Beat 
 them all well together, and drew in a little pepper and 
 fait; then drop them in little cakes into a pan with boil¬ 
 ing lardj fry them of a light brown, and lay them on a 
 fieve to drain. Take your haih out of the pan with a 
 fifli dice, and lay it in your difh. Strain your gravy 
 over it, and lay upon it a few mufhrooms, forcemeat 
 balls, the yolks of two eggs boiled hard, and the brain 
 cakes. Garnifh with fliced lemon and pickles.—— i t the 
 company is fo large that there fhould be a neceflity for 
 dreffing the whole head, in order to make a pleawng va¬ 
 riety, do the other half thus:-When it is parboiled, 
 
 hack it crofs and crol's with a knife, and grate fome nut¬ 
 meg all over it. Take the yolks of two eggs, a little 
 fait and popper, a few fweet-herbs, fome crumbs of bread, 
 and a little lemon-peel chopped very fine. Strew this 
 over the head, and then put it into a deep difh before a 
 good fire. Bade it with butter, and keep the difh turn¬ 
 ing till all parts are equally brown. 1 hen take it up, and 
 lay it on your haih. Blanch the half of the tongue, and 
 lay it on a foup-plate; boil the brains with a little fage 
 and parfley, chop ihem fine, and mix them with fome 
 melted butter and a fpoonful of cream ; make it quite hot, 
 then pour it over the tongue, and ierve it up with the 
 head.—The mode of doing this half is ufually termed 
 grilling. 
 
 Veal minced. 
 
 FIRST cut your veal into thin dices, and then into 
 fmall bits. Put it into a laucepan with half a pint of 
 gravy, a little pepper and fait, a flice of lemon, a good 
 piece of butter rolled in flour, a tea-fpoonful of lemon- 
 pickle, and a large fpoonful of cream. Keep fhaking it 
 over the fire till it boils, have fippets of bread ready in the 
 difh, and then pour the whole over them. Garnifh. with 
 fliced lemon. 
 
 Mutton liajhed. 
 
 CUT your meat into fmall pieces, as thin as poflible, 
 then boil the bones with an onion, a few iweet-herbs, a 
 blade of mace, a very little whole pepper, a little fait, 
 grid a piece of erud toaded very crifp, Let it boil till 
 * M 2 there 
 
92 HASHING 
 
 there is juft enough for fauce; then ftrain it, and put ft 
 into a faucepan, with a piece of butter rolled in flour;— 
 then put in the meat, and when it is very hot, it is enough. 
 Seafon with pepper and fait. Have ready fome thin bread 
 toafted brown and cut three-corner ways, lay them in the 
 difh, and pour over the hath. Garnifli with pickles and 
 horfe-radifn. 
 
 SECT II. 
 
 HASHING POULTRY and GAME. 
 
 Turkeys. 
 
 CUT the flefh into pieces, and take off all the fkin, 
 otherwife it will give the gravy a greafy difagreeable tafte. 
 Put it into a ftew-pan with a pint of gravy, a tea-fpoonful 
 of lemon-pickle, a (lice of the end of the lemon, and a 
 little beaten mace. Let it boil about fix. or fevcn minutes, 
 and then put it into your difh. Thicken your gravy with 
 Pour and butter, mix the yolks of two eggs with a fpoOn- 
 ful of thick cream, put it into your gravy, and fhake it 
 over the fire till it is quite hot, but do not let it boil; then 
 ftrain it, and pour it over your turkey. Lay fippets round, 
 ferve it up, and garnifli with lemon or parfley. 
 
 Or you may do it thus: 
 
 CUT the remains of a roafted turkey into pieces, and 
 put them into a ftew-pan with a glafs of white wine, chop¬ 
 ped parfley, fhaldts, mufhrooms, truffles, fait, and pepper, 
 and about half a pint of broth. Let it boil half an hour, 
 which will be fufficient to do it; then add a pounded an¬ 
 chovy, and a fqueeze of lemon. Scum the fat clear from 
 the fauce, then pour the whole into your difli over fippets 
 made with toafted bread cut thin. Garnifli with fliced 
 Jemon. 
 
 Fowls. 
 
 CUT up your fowl as for eating, then put it into a 
 ftew-pan with half a pint of gravy, a teaffpoonful of 
 lemon-pickle, a little catchup, and a flice of lemon. 
 
 Thicken 
 
POULTRY, &c. 93 
 
 Thicken it with flour and butter; and juft before you difh 
 it up, put in a fpoonful of good cream. Lay fippets in 
 the dilh, and pour the hafh over them. 
 
 Chickens. 
 
 CUT a cold chicken into pieces, and if you have no 
 gravy, make a little with the long bones, onion, fpice, &c. 
 Flour the chicken, and put it into the gravy, with white 
 pepper, fait, nutmeg, and grated lemon. When it boils, 
 ftir in an egg, and mix with it a little cream. As foon as 
 jt is thoroughly hot, fqueeze in a little lemon juice, then 
 put the whole into a difh ; ftrew over it fome crumbs of 
 bread, brown them with a falamander, and then ferye it 
 up hot to table. 
 
 Partridge , or Woodcock , 
 
 HAVING cut it up in the ufual manner as when firfx: 
 brought to the table, work the entrails very fine with the 
 back of a fpoon, put in a fpoonful of red wine, the fame 
 of water, and half a fpoonful of vinegar ; cut an onion in 
 dices, and pull it into rings; roll a little butter in flour, 
 put them all into your pan, and fhake it over the fire till 
 it boils : then put in your bird, and when it is thoroughly 
 hot, lay in your difh, with fippets round it. Strain the 
 fauce over the bird, and lay the onions in rings. This will 
 make a delicate difh for two people, either for dinner or 
 fupper; and where there is a large company, is an orna¬ 
 mental addition to other articles provided. 
 
 Wild Ducks. 
 
 CUT up your ducks in the ufual manner, then put it 
 into a pan, with a fpoonful of good gravy, the fame of red 
 wine, and an onion fliced exceeding thin. When it has 
 boiled two or three minutes-, lay'the duck in the difh, and 
 pour the gravy over it. You may add a teafpoonful of 
 caper liquor, or a little browning. 
 
 Hares. 
 
 CUT your hare into fmall pieces, and if you have any 
 of the pudding left, rub it fmall, and put to it a gill of red 
 .wine, the fame quantity of water, half an anchovy chopped 
 
 hue. 
 
§4 HASHING 
 
 fine, an onion fluck with four cloves, and a quarter of a 
 pound of butter rolled in flour. Put thefe all together 
 in a faucepan, and fet it over a flow fire, fhaking it at 
 times that the whole may be equally heated. When it is 
 thoroughly hot (for you muft not let any kind of hafn 
 boil, as it will harden the meat) take out the onion, lay 
 flppets in and round the difh, pour in your hafh, and ferve 
 it hot to table. 
 
 Hard jugged., 
 
 AFTER you have cut you hare into fmall pieces, lard 
 them here and there with very thin flips of bacon ; fcafon 
 them with a little pepper and fait, and put them into an 
 earthen jug, with a blade or two of mace, an onion fluck 
 with cloves, and a bunch of fweer-herbs. Cover the jug 
 clofe, that the fleam may be retained; fct it in a pot of 
 boiling water, and about three hours will do it. Then 
 turn it out of the jug into the difh, take out the onion and 
 fweet-herbs, and fend it hot to table. With refpect to 
 the larding, it may be ufed, or omitted, at your own <jif- 
 eretipn. Garnilh with fliced lemon, 
 
 Venifon. 
 
 CUT your venifon into very thin flices, and put it into a 
 ftewing-pan, with a large glafs of red wine, a fpoonful of 
 catchup, the fame of browning, an onion fluck with cloves, 
 and half an anchovy chopped fine. When it boils, put 
 in your venifon, and let it remain till it is thoroughly 
 heated. Then pour the whole together into a foup-difh, 
 with flppets underneath. Garnifh with red cabbage or 
 currant jelly. 
 
 CHAP, 
 
95 
 
 M EAT, &c. 
 
 CHAP. IX. 
 
 FR1CASSEEING. 
 
 SECT. I. 
 
 BUTCHER’S MEAT, POULTRY, Zee. 
 
 Neat's Tongue. 
 
 H AVING boiled the tongue till it is tender, take it 
 up, peel it, and cut it into dices. Put them into a 
 frying-pan, with a proper quantity of butter, and let them 
 fry till they are brown. Then pour the butter-clean out 
 of the pan, and put in fome good gravy, with a bunch of 
 fweet-herbs, an onion, fome pepper and fait, a blade or 
 two of mace, and a gill of wine. When they have all 
 fimmered together about half an hour, take out the dices 
 of tongue, drain the gravy, and put all again into the pan, 
 with the yolks of two eggs beat fine, a little nutmeg 
 grated, and a fmall piece of butter rolled in flour. Shake 
 the whole well together, and when it has fimmered for 
 about five minutes, put the tongue into your dilh, pour 
 over the fauce, and lerve it to table. 
 
 Ox Palates. 
 
 WHEN you have thoroughly cl^anfed them, put them 
 into warm water for about half an hour ; then take them 
 out, put them into a dew-pot, with a fufficiency of water 
 to cover them, and fend them to the oven. Let them 
 remain there three or four hours, and when they come 
 from thence, take them out of the pot, drip off the lkins, 
 cut them into lquare pieces, and fcafon them with chyan 
 pepper, fait, mace, and nutmeg. Beat up the yolks of 
 two eggs, with a lpoonful of flour, dip your palates into 
 this, and fry them till they are a fine light brown; then 
 take them out, and put them into a fieve to drain. Have 
 ready a pint of veal gravy, with a little caper liquor, a 
 fpoonful of browning, and a few mulhrooms. Thicken 
 it with butter and flour, pour it into your dilh, and lay on 
 the palates. Garnilh with fryed parfley or barberries. 
 
 Sweet- 
 
9 6 FRICASSEEING 
 
 Sweetbreads Brown. 
 
 FIRST feald your fweetbreads, and then cut them into 
 Dices. Beat up the yolk of an egg very fine, with a little 
 Hour, pepper, fait, and nutmeg. Dip your flices of fweet- 
 bread into this, and fry them of a nice light brown. Then 
 thicken a little good gravy, with fome flour; boil it well, 
 and add catchup or mufhroom powder, a little juice of le¬ 
 mon, and chyan pepper. Put your fweetbreads into this, 
 and when they have ftewed in it about five minutes, put the 
 whole into your difh, and ferve it up. Garnifh with Diced 
 lemon. 
 
 Sweetbreads White. 
 
 THESE mud be like wife firft fealded, and then cut 
 into long Dices; which done, thicken l'ome veal gravy 
 with a piece of butter rolled in flour, a little cream, fome 
 grated lemon-peel and nutmeg, white pepper, fait, and 
 a little mufliroom powder. When thefe have ftewed 
 together about ten minutes, put in the fweetbreads, Drake 
 the pan, and let them fimmer; then fqueeze in a little 
 lemon-juice, pour the whole into your difh, and ferve it 
 up. 
 
 Lamb's Stones . 
 
 FRY thepr in hog’s-lard till they are of a nice brown 
 colour, then take them out, and put them into a plate 
 before the fire till you have prepared the following fauce. 
 Thicken about half a pint of veal gravy with fome flour, 
 put to it a flice of lemon, a little catchup, a tea fpoonful 
 of lemon-pickle, grated nutmeg, the yolk of an egg beat 
 fine, and two fpoonsful of thick cream. Put thefe into 
 a faucepan over the fire, and keep (baking it till it looks 
 white and thick; then put in the lamb’s ftones, give 
 them a fhake, and when the whole is properly heated, 
 put it into your difh, with boiled forcemeat-balls 
 round, intermixed with thin Dices of lemon by way of 
 garnifh. 
 
 Calf’s Feet. 
 
 PARBOIL them, then take out the long bones, fplit 
 them, and put them into a ftew-pan, with fome veal 
 
 gravy. 
 
MEAT, &c. 97 
 
 gravy, and a glals of white wine. Add likewife the 
 yolks of two or three eggs beat up with a little cream, 
 grated nutmeg, fait, and a piece of butter. Stir it till it 
 is of a good thicknefs; and when the whole has gently 
 fimmered for about ten minutes, put the feet into your 
 difh, and pour the fauce over them. Garnifh with' diced 
 lemon. 
 
 Tripe. 
 
 CUT your tripe into pieces about two inches fquare, 
 and put them into your ftew-pan, with as much white 
 wine as will half cover them, a little white pepper, diced 
 ginger, a blade of mace, a bunch of fweet-herbs, and an 
 onion. When it has ftewed a quarter of an hour (which 
 will be a fufficient time to do it), take out the herbs and 
 onion, and put in a little fhred pardey, the juice of a le¬ 
 mon, half an anchovy cut ffnall, a cup full of cream, and 
 either the yolk of an egg, or a piece of butter. Seafon 
 it to your tafte and when you difh it up, garnidi with 
 lemon. 
 
 Chickens. 
 
 SKIN your chickens, and then cut them into fmall 
 pieces, after which wafh them with warm water, and tho¬ 
 roughly dry them with a cloth. Seafon them with fait 
 and pepper, and put them into a ftew-pan with a little 
 water, a large piece of butter, a bunch of thyme and fweet- 
 marjoram, an onion (tuck wdth cloves, a little lemon 
 pickle, a glafs of wine, an anchovy, and a little mace and 
 nutmeg. When the chickens have ftewed till they are 
 tender, take them up, and lay them in your difh. Thicken 
 your gravy with butter rolled in flour, and then drain ir 0 
 Beat up the yolks of three eggs, and mix them with a gill 
 of rich cream ; put this into your gravy, and fliake it over 
 the fire till it is quite hot, but do not fuffer it to boil. 
 Pour this over your chickens, and ferve them up. Garnidi 
 with diced lemon. 
 
 Pigeons. 
 
 WHEN you have cut your pigeons in pieces put 
 them into a pan, and fry them of a nice light brown. 
 Then put them into a ftew-pan, with fame good mutton 
 
 HI, N gravy 
 
9 S FRIC ASSEEING 
 
 gravy, and when they have dewed about half an hour, 
 throw in a (lice of lemon, halt an ounce of morels, and a 
 fpoonful of browning. When they have ftewed about five 
 minutes longer, take them out, and put them into your 
 difh, thicken the gravy with a piece of butter rolled in 
 flour, and then drain it over your pigeons. Lay round 
 them force-meat balls, and garnifb with pickles. 
 
 Rabbits White, 
 
 TO fricaflee rabbits white, you mud cut them up as 
 for eating, and then put them into a dew-pan, with a pint 
 of veal gravy, a little beaten mace, a Alice of lemon, an 
 anchovy, a tea-fpoonful of lemon-pickle, and a little chyan 
 pepper and fait. Let them dew over a gentle fire till they 
 are enough, then take them out, and lay them in your difh. 
 Thicken the gravy with butter and flour; then drain it, 
 and add the yolks of two eggs, mixed with a gill of thick 
 cream, and a little grated nutmeg. Stir thele well toge¬ 
 ther, and when it begins to fimmer, pour it cjuite hot over 
 your rabbits, and ferve them to table. 
 
 Rabbits Brown. 
 
 CUT them into pieces as before directed, and fry them 
 in butter of a light brown. Then put them into a dew- 
 pan, with a pint of water, a flice ot lemon, an anchovy, a 
 large fpoonful of browning, the fame of catchup, a tea- 
 fpoonful of lemon-pickle, and a little chyan pepper and 
 fait. Stew them over a flow fire till they are enough, 
 then thicken your gravy with butter and flour, and drain 
 it. Difh up your rabbits, and pour die gravy over them, 
 Garnifli with diced lemon. 
 
 SECT. II. 
 
 FRIC ASSEEING FISH, &c. 
 
 Cod Sounds, 
 
 HAVING properly cleaned them, cut them into 
 fmall pieces, boil them in milk and water, and then fet 
 them to drain. Then put them into a clean faucepan, 
 
 and 
 
F I S H. gg 
 
 and feafon them with beaten mace, grated nutmeg, and a 
 little pepper and fait. Add to them a cup full of cream, 
 with a good piece of butter rolled in flour, and keep {halt¬ 
 ing the whole till it is thoroughly hot, and of a good 
 thicknefs. Then pour all into your dilh, and ferve it up, 
 with fliced lemon for garnifh. 
 
 Soals . 
 
 WHEN you have {kinned, gutted, and thoroughly 
 wafhed them, cut off their heads, and dry the fifh in a 
 cloth. Then cut the flefh very carefully from the bones 
 and fins on both fidesj cut it firft longways and then 
 acrofs, in fuch divifions that each fifh may make eight 
 pieces. Put the heads and bones into a ftew-pan, with a 
 pint of water, a bunch of fweet-herbs, an onion, a little: 
 whole pepper, two or three blades of mace, a fmall 
 piece of lemon-peel, a little fait, and a cruft of bread. 
 Cover it clofe, and let it boil till it is half wafted: then 
 ftrain it through a fine fieve, and put it into a ftew-pan 
 with your fifh. Add to them half a pint of white wine, 
 a little parfley chopped fine, a few mulhrooms cut fmall, 
 a little grated nutmeg, and a piece of butter rolled in 
 flour. Set all together over a flow fire, and keep fhaking 
 the pan till the fifh are enough: then' di'fti them up with 
 the gravy, and ferve them to table. Garnifh with 
 lemon. 
 
 Eds. 
 
 SKIN three or four large eels, and notch them from 
 end to end. Cut them into four or five pieces each, and 
 lay them in fome fpring water for half an hour to 
 crimp: then dry them in a cloth, and put them into 
 your pan, with a piece of frefh butter, a green onion or 
 two, and a little chopped parfley. Set the pan on the 
 fire, and lhake them about for a few minutes: then put 
 in about a pint of white wine, and as much good broth, 
 with pepper, fait, and a blade of mace. Stew all toge¬ 
 ther about half an hour; and then add the yolks of four 
 or five eggs beat fmooth, a little grated nutmeg, and 
 chopped parfley. Stir the whole well together, and let 
 it funnier four or five minutes, then fqueeze in the juice 
 
 N 2 of 
 
100 FRICASSEEING 
 
 of a lemon, give the whole a good fhake, pour it into your 
 difb, and ferve it up hot. Garnifh with lemon. 
 
 Tench are exceeding fine drefled in the fame manner. 
 
 Flounders. 
 
 TAKE a fharp knife, and carefully raife the flefh on 
 both fides from head to tail; then take the bone clear 
 out, and cut the flefh into pieces in the fame manner as 
 directed for foals, only let the pieces of each confift of 
 fix inftead of eight. Dry your fifh well, then fprinkle 
 them with fait, dredge them with flour, and fl'y them in 
 a pan of hot beef dripping, fo that the fifh may be crifp. 
 When fo done, take them out of the pan, drain the fat 
 from them, and fet them before the fire to keep warm. 
 Then clean the pan, and put into it fome minced oyfters, 
 with their liquor clean (trained, fome white wine, a little 
 grated nutmeg, and three anchovies. Stew thefe toge¬ 
 ther a few minutes, and then put in your fifh, with about 
 a quarter of a pound of frefh butter. Shake them well 
 together, and when quite hot, diili up your fifh with the 
 fauce, and ferve them to table. Garnifh with yolks of 
 eggs, boiled hard and minced, and fliced lemon. You 
 may fricaffee falmon, or any other firm filh, in the fame 
 manner. 
 
 Skait or Thornback. 
 
 THESE muft be prepared for d re fling in the fame 
 manner as dire&ed for foals and flounders; after which 
 put them into your fcew-pan. To one pound of the fifh 
 put a quarter of a pint of water, a little beaten mace, and 
 grated nutmeg; a fmall bunch of fweet-herbs, and a 
 little fait. Cover it clofe, and let it boil about a quarter 
 of an hour. Then take out the fweet-herbs, put in a 
 quarter of a pint of good cream, a piece of butter, the 
 flze of a walnut, rolled in flour, and a giafs of white wine. 
 Keep fhaking the pan all the time one way till your fri- 
 cafiee is thick and fmooth; then difn it up, and garnifh 
 with lemon. 
 
 Oyfters. 
 
 PUT a little butter into your ftew-pan, with a dice 
 of ham, a faggot of parfley and fweet-herbs, and an 
 
 onion 
 
- F I S H, &c. ioi 
 
 onion ftuck with two cloves. Let them (lew over a flow 
 fire a few minutes, and then add a little flour, fome good 
 broth, and a piece of lemon-peel; then put in your ovfters, 
 and let them fimmer till they are thoroughly hot. Thicken 
 with the yolks of two eggs, a little cream, and a bit of 
 good butter. take out the ham, faggot, onion, and lemon- 
 peel, and add the fqueeze of a lemon. Give the whole 
 a fhake in the pan, and when it fimmers put it into your 
 difh, and lerve it up. 
 
 Eggs. 
 
 BOIL your eggs hard, and take out fome of the yolks 
 whole: then cut the reft in quarters, yolks and whites 
 together. Set on fome gravy, with a little fhred thyme 
 and parfley in it, and let it boil about a minute. Then 
 put in your eggs, with a little grated nutmeg, and fhake 
 them up with a piece of butter till it is of a proper thick- 
 nefs. Pour it into your difb, and ferve it up. 
 
 Eggs with Onions and Mujhrcoms. 
 
 WHEN you have boiled the eggs hard, take out the 
 yolks whole, and cut the whites in flips, with fome onions 
 and mufhrooms. Fry the onions and muflirooms, throw 
 in the whites, and turn them about a little. If there is 
 any fat pour it off. Flour the onions, &c. and put to them 
 a little good gravy. Boil this up, then put in the yolks, 
 and add a little pepper and fait. Let the whole fimmer 
 for about a minute, and then difh it up. 
 
 Mujhrobms. 
 
 IF you mufhrooms are very fmall (fuch as are 
 ufually termed buttons) you muft only wipe them with 
 a flannel; but, if large, peel them, ferape the infides, 
 and throw them into fome fait and water. After laving 
 fome time, take them out, and boil them in water with 
 fome fait in it; and when they are tender, put in a little 
 ihred parfley, an onion ftuck with cloves, and a glafs of 
 wine. Shake them up with a good piece of butter rolled 
 in flour, and put in three fpoonfuls of thick cream, and 
 a little nutmeg cut in pieces. When the whole has flood 
 two or three minutes, take out the onion and nutmeg, 
 
 then 
 
102 RAGOOING. 
 
 then pour the mufhrooms with their fauce into- your drib, 
 and ferve them to table. 
 
 Skirrits . 
 
 WASH them thoroughly clean, and when you have 
 boiled them till they are tender, fkin the roots, and cut 
 them into dices. Have ready a little cream, a piece of 
 butter rolled in flour, the yolk of an egg beaten fine, a 
 little grated nutmeg, two or three fpoonfuls of white wine, 
 with a very little- fait, and flir all together. Put your 
 roots into the difh, and pour the fauce over them. 
 
 Artichoke Bottoms. 
 
 THESE may be fricaffeed either dried or pickled. 
 If dried, lay them in warm water for three or four hours, 
 fhifting the water two or three times. Having done this, 
 put fome cream into your faucepan, with a large piece of 
 frelb butter, and flir them together one way till the butter 
 is melted. Then put in the artichokes, and when they 
 are hot difh them up. 
 
 C H A P. X. 
 
 R A G 0 0 S. 
 
 S E C T. I. 
 
 BUTCHER’S ME AT. 
 
 Brcajl of Veal. 
 
 H ALF roaft it, then take out the bones, and put the 
 meat into a flewpan, with a quart of veal gravy, 
 an ounce of morels, and the fame quantity of truffles.— 
 When the meat has ftewed till it is tender, and juft before 
 you thicken the gravy, put in a few oytiers, fome pickled 
 mufhrooms, and pickled cucumbers, all cut in fmall 
 fquare pieces, and the yolks of four eggs boiled hard.— 
 In the mean time, cut your fweet-bread into pieces, and 
 fry it of a light brown. When the veal is properly 
 
 ftewed 
 
MEAT. 103 
 
 Hewed, difh it up, and pour the gravy hot upon it. Lay 
 your fweet-bread, morels, truffles, and eggs round it, and 
 garnifh with pickled barberries.*—In placing this difh on 
 the table, if the company is large, and the provifional en¬ 
 tertainment defigned to be fet out in tafte, if for fupper, 
 it muft be placed at the bottom of the table, but if for 
 dinner, either at the top or on one fide. 
 
 Neck of Veal. 
 
 CUT your veal into fteaks, and flatten them with a 
 rolling-pin ■, then feafon them with fait, pepper, cloves, 
 and mace; lard them with bacon ftrewed with lemon- 
 peel and thyme, and dip them in the yolks of eggs. 
 Having done this, make up a fheet of ffrong cap-paper 
 at the four corners in the fhape of a dripping-pan, butter 
 it all over, as alfo the gridiron, and fet over a charcoal 
 fire, put in your meat, and let it do lcifurely, keep turn¬ 
 ing it often, and bafte it well in order to keep in the gravy. 
 When it is enough, have ready half a pint of ftrong gravy, 
 feafon it high, and put into it mufhrooms and pickles, 
 forcemeat balls dipped in the yolks of eggs, oyfters ftewed, 
 and fried, to lay round, and at the top of your difh, and 
 then ferve it up.—If for a white ragoo, put in a gill of 
 white wine, with the yolks of two eggs beat up witli two 
 or three fpoonfuls of cream ; but if a brown ragoo, put 
 in red wine. 
 
 Sweetbreads. 
 
 DIP your fweetbreads into the yolk of an egg, and 
 then ftrew over them crumbs of bread, parfley, thyme, 
 fweet-marjoram fbred fmall, and feafon with pepper and 
 fait. Make a roll of forcemeat like a fweetbread, put it 
 into a veal caul, and roaft both in a dutch oven. Take 
 fome brown gravy and put to it a little lemon-pickle, a 
 table fpoonful of catchup, and the end of a lemon. Boil 
 the gravy, and when the fweetbreads are enough, lay them 
 jn a difh, with the forcemeat in the middle. Take out 
 the end of a lemon, pour the gravy into the dilh, and 
 (end it up to table. 
 
104 RAGOOING 
 
 Calf Sr Feet. 
 
 AFTER boiling the feet, take out the bones, cut the 
 meat into dices, and brown them in a frying-pan - y then 
 put them into fome good beef gravy, with morels, truffles, 
 pickled mufhrooms, and the yolks of four eggs boiled 
 hard, fome fait, and a little butter rolled in flour. Let them 
 flew together about five minutes, and then put all into your 
 diffl. Garnifh with fliced lemon. 
 
 Pig's Feet and Ears. 
 
 FIRST boil them till they are tender, then cut the ears 
 into long narrow flices. And fpiit the feet down the mid¬ 
 dle. Put into a fiew-pan about half a pint of beef gravy, 
 a tea-fpoonful of lemon pickle, a large one of catchup, 
 the fame of browning, and a little fait.—Thicken thefe 
 with a piece of butter rolled in flour, and put in the feet 
 and ears. Let them boil gently, and when enough, lay 
 the feet in the middle of the difh, and the ears round 
 them. Then drain your gravy, pour it over them, and 
 garnifh with curled parflev. 
 
 Fore Quarter of Floufe-Lamb ., 
 
 TAKE off the knuckle-bone, and then, with a (harp 
 knife, cut off the fkin. Lard it well with bacon, and fry 
 it of a nice light brown. Then put it into a fiew-pan, 
 and juft cover it over with mutton-gravy, a bunch of 
 fweet-herbs, fome pepper, fait, beaten mace, and a little 
 whole pepper. Cover it clofe, and let it flew half an 
 hour. Then pour out the liquor, and take care to keep 
 the lamb hot. Strain off the gravy, and have ready half 
 a pint of oyfters fried brown. Pour all the fat from them, 
 and put them into the gravy, with two fpoonsful of red 
 wine, a few mufhrooms, and a bit of butter rolled in flour. 
 Boil all together, with the juice of half a lemon. Lay 
 the lamb in the difh, pour the fauce over it, and fend it 
 to table. 
 
 Betj. 
 
 TAKE any piece of beef that has got fome fat to if, 
 cut the meat clean from the bones, drew fome flour over 
 it, and fry it in a large ftew-pan with butter till it is of a 
 
 nice 
 
M E A T. io^ 
 
 nice brown j then cover it in the pan \vi h gravy made in 
 the following manner: Take about a pound of coarfe 
 beef, half a pound of lean veal cut fmall, a bunch of fweet- 
 herbs, an onion, fome whole black and white pepper, two 
 or three blades of mace, four or five cloves, a piece of 
 carrot, a (lice of lean bacon fteeped in vinegar, and a cruft 
 of bread toafted brown. Add to thefe a. quart of wine, 
 and let it boil till it is half wafted. In the mean time, pour 
 a quart of boiling water into the ftew-pan, cover it clofe, 
 and let it ftew gently. As loon as the gravy is done, 
 ftrain it, and pour it into the ftew-pan with the beef. 
 Then take an ounce of truffles and morels cut final!, with 
 fome frefh or dried mufhrooms, and two fpoonsful of 
 catchup. Cover it clofe, and let it ftew till the lauce is 
 thick and rich. Have ready fome artichoke bottoms 
 quartered, and a few pickled mufhrooms. Boil the whole 
 together, and when your meat is tender, and the fauce 
 rich, lay the meat in a diffl, pour the lauce over it, and 
 ferve it hot to table. 
 
 Ox Palates . 
 
 FIRST boil them till they are tender, then cut them 
 into pieces, fume fquare, and fome long, and proceed thus: 
 Put a piece of butter into your ftew-pan, and when it is 
 melted, ftrew in a large fpoonful of flour, and ftir it well 
 together till it is fmooth; then put to it a quart of good 
 gravy, three fhalots chopped fine, and a gill of white wine; 
 alfo two or three thin lliccs of lean ham, and half a lemon. 
 When you have boiled them about twenty minutes, ftrain 
 the liquor through a fieve, and put it into the pan with 
 your palates, as alfo forcemeat balls, truffles and morels, 
 pickled or frefh mufhrooms Hewed in gravy, and feafon it 
 with pepper and fait to your palate. Tofs them all up to¬ 
 gether for five or fix minutes, then difh them up, and gar- 
 nifh with lemon or- beet-root. 
 
 Mutton. 
 
 CUT fome thin flices, the right way of the grain, off 
 a fine leg of mutton, and pare off all the fkin and fat.— 
 Then put a piece of butter into your ftew-pan, and fhake 
 fome flour over it; add to thefe two or three flices of 
 
 III. O lemon* 
 
v 
 
 '10 6 RAGOOING 
 
 lemon, with half an onion cut very fmall, a bunch of fweet- 
 herbs, and a blade of mace. Put your meat with thefe 
 into the pan, ftir them together fur five or lix minutes, 
 and then put in about ha'f a pint of gravy, with an an¬ 
 chovy minced fmall, and a piece of butter rolled in flour. 
 Stir the whole well together, and when it has ftewed about 
 ten minutes, difh it up, and ferve it to table. Garnifli 
 with pickles and fliced lemon. 
 
 SECT. II. 
 
 RAGOOS or POULTRY, VEGETABLES, &c, 
 
 A Goofe. 
 
 SKIN your goofe, dip it into boiling water, and break 
 the breaft- bone, fo that it may lay quite flat. Seafon it 
 with pepper and fait, and a little mace beaten to powder j 
 lard it, and then flour it all over. Having done this, 
 take about a pound of beef fuet, and put it into your 
 ftew-pan, and when melted, and boiling hot, put in the 
 goofe. As foon as you find the goole brown all over, 
 put in a quart of beef gravy boiled hot, a bunch of fweet- 
 herbs, a blade of mace, a few cloves, fome whole pepper, 
 two or three fmall onions, and a bay-leaf. Cover the 
 pan quite cloft, and let it ftew^gently over a flow fire. If 
 the goofe is fmall, it will be done in an hour, but if large, 
 an hour and a half. Make a ragoo for it in the following 
 manner: Cut feme turnips and carrots into fmall pieces, 
 with three or four onions fliced ; boil all enough, put them, 
 with half a pint of rich beef gravy, into a faucepan, with 
 fome pepper, fait, and a piece of butter rolled in flour. 
 Let them flew about a quarter of an hour. When the 
 goofe is done, take it out of the flew-pan, drain the liquor 
 it was ftewed in well from ir, put it into a difh, and pour 
 the ragoo over it. 
 
 Livers of Poultry . 
 
 TAKE the liver of a turkey, and the livers of fix 
 fowls, and put them into cold water. When they have 
 laid in it fome time, take them out, and put the fowls- 
 
 livcr§ 
 
FISH, &c. 107 
 
 livers into a faucepan, with a quarter of a pint of gravy, 
 a fpoonful of mufhrootns, either pickled or frelh, the fame 
 quantity of catchup, and a piece of butter rolled in flour. 
 Seafon them to your tafte with pepper and fait, and let 
 them ftew gently about ten minutes. In the mean time, 
 broil the turkey’s liver nicely, and lay it in the middle, 
 with the (tewed livers round it. Pour the fauce over all, 
 and gamifh with lemon. 
 
 Oyfters. 
 
 WHEN the oyfters are opened, fave as much of the 
 liquor as you can, and ftrain it through a fieve,- wafli 
 your oyfters clean in warm water, and then make a 
 batter as follows: Beat up the yolks of two eggs with 
 half a nutmeg grated, cut a little lemon-peel fmall, a 
 good deal of parfley, and add a fpoonful of the juice of 
 fpinach, two fpoonsful of cream or milk, and beat the 
 whole up with flour till it is a thick batter. Having 
 prepared this, put a piece of frefh butter into a ftew-pan, 
 and when it is thoroughly hot, dip your oyfters one by 
 one into the batter, then roll them in crumbs of bread 
 grated fine, and fry them quick and brown, which done, 
 take them out of the pan, and fet them before the fire.— 
 Have ready a quart of chefnuts, (helled and fkinned, and 
 fry them in the batter. When enough, take them up, 
 pour the fat out of the pan, fhake a little flour all over 
 the pan, and rub a piece of butter all round with a fpoon. 
 Then put in the oyfter liquor, three or four blades of 
 mace, the chefnuts, and half a pint of white wine. Let 
 them boil, and have ready the yolks of two eggs beat up, 
 with four fpoonsful of cream. Stir all well together, and 
 when it is thick and fine, lay the oyfters in the difh, 
 and pour the ragoo over them. Garnifti with chef- 
 nuts and lemon. 
 
 Mufcels. 
 
 PUT your mufcels into a fauccpan, and let them 
 ftew till they open. Then take them out of the (hefts, 
 and fave the liquor. Put into your ftew-pan a bit of 
 butter, a few mufhrooms chopped, a little parfley, and 
 grated lemon-peel. Stir thefe together, and then put 
 
 O 2 in 
 
108 RAGOOING 
 
 in fome gravy, with pepper and fait; thicken it with a 
 little flour, boil it up, put in the mufcels with their liquor, 
 and let them be hot; then pour them into your difh, and 
 ferve them up. There are Tome mulcels of a pernicious 
 quality; to know which, when you flew them, put a half- 
 crown into the faucepan, and if it is difcoloured, the muf* 
 cles are not wholefome. 
 
 Mu/lirooms. 
 
 TAKE fome large mufhrooms, peel them, and cut the 
 infide. Then broil them on a gridiron, and when the out- 
 flde is brown, put them into a ftew-pan, with a fufficient 
 quantity of water to cover them. When they have flewed 
 ten minutes, put to them a fpoonful of white wine, the 
 fame of browning, and a little vinegar. Thicken it with 
 butter and flour, give it a gentle boil, and ferve it up with 
 fippets round the difh. 
 
 Artichoke Bottoms . 
 
 SOAK them in warm water for two or three hours, 
 changing the water. Then put them into a ftew-pan, 
 with fome good gravy, mufhroom catchup or powder, 
 and a little chyan pepper and fait. When they boil, 
 thicken with a little flour, put them into your difh, pour 
 the fauce over them, and ferve them up hot to table. 
 
 Afparagus . 
 
 TAKE an hundred of grafs, ferape them clean, and 
 put them into cold water; then cut them as far as is 
 good and green, and take two heads of endive, with a 
 young lettuce, and an onion, and cut them all very 
 Email. Put a quarter of a pound of butter intcy your 
 ftew-pan, and when it is mdjted,-'put in the grafs, with 
 the other articles. Shake them about, and when they 
 have feewed ten minutes, feafon them with a little pepper 
 and fair, ltrew in a little flour, fhake them about, and 
 then pour in half a pint of gravy. Let them flew till the 
 fauce is very good and thick, and then pour all into 
 your difh. Garnilh with a few of the fmall tops of the 
 grafs. 
 
 Cucumbers* 
 
VEGETABLES, &c. log 
 
 Cucumbers. 
 
 SLICE two cucumbers and two onions, and fry them 
 together in a little butter. Then drain them in a fieve, 
 and put them into a faucepan, with a gill of gravy, two 
 fpoonsful of white wine, and a blade of mace. When 
 they have ftewed five or fix minutes, put in a piece of 
 butter, about the fize of a walnut, rolled in flour, a little 
 fait and chyan pepper. Shake them well together till the 
 whole is of a good thicknefs, then put them into your difh, 
 and ferve them up. 
 
 Canlijlowers. 
 
 TAKE a large cauliflower, wafh it thoroughly clean, 
 and feparate it into pieces, in the lame manner you would 
 do for pickling. Stew them in a nice brown cullis till 
 they are tender. Seafon with pepper and fait, and put 
 them into the difh with the fauce over them. Garnifli 
 with a few fprigs of the cauliflower nicely boiled. 
 
 French Beans. 
 
 TAKE a quarter of a peck of beans, firing them 
 clean, but do not fplit them. Cut them acrcfs in three 
 parts, and lay them in fait and water. After remaining 
 thus about a quarter of an hour, dry them well in a 
 cloth, then put them into a pan, and when you have 
 fried them of a nice brown colour, take them out, pour 
 all the fat from the pan, and put into it a quarter of a 
 pint of hot water. Stir it into the pan by degrees, and 
 let it boil. Then take a quarter of a pound of frefh 
 blitter rolled in a little flour, two fpoonsful of catchup, 
 one of mulhroom-pickle, four of white wine, an onion 
 ftuck with fix cloves, two or three blades of beaten 
 mace, a little grated nutmeg, and a little pepper and 
 fait. Stir it all together for a few minutes, and then put 
 in the beans. Shake the pan till the whole is well mixed 
 together, then take out the onion, and pour all into your 
 diih. Garnifli with what moft pleafcs your fancy; but 
 pickles may be preferred. This makes a very pretty 
 fide-difh. 
 
 Endive. 
 
 TAKE three heads of fine white endive, w'afh them 
 thoroughly clean, and then put them into fait and water 
 
 for 
 
Ito RAG GOING 
 
 for three hours. Cut off the green heads of a hundred 
 of afparagus, chop the reft fmall as far as it runs tender, 
 and throw it likewife into fait and water. Then take a 
 bunch of celery, wafh and fcrape it clean, and cut it 
 into pieces about three inches long. Put it into a fauce- 
 pan with a pint of water, three or four blades of mace, 
 and fome white pepper tied in a rag. When it has 
 ftewed till it is quite tender, put in the afparagus, lhake 
 the faucepan, and let it fimmer till the grafs is enough. 
 Take the three heads of endive out of the water, drain 
 them, and leave the largeft whole. Pull the others 
 alunder, leaf by leaf, and put them into the ftew-pan, 
 with a pint of white wine. Cover the pan clofe, and let 
 it boil till the endive is juft enough. Then put in a quarter 
 of a pound of butter rolled in flour, cover the pan again, 
 and keep fhaking it. When the endive is enough, take 
 it up, and lay the whole head in the middle; then with a 
 fpoon take out the celery and grafs, and lay them round 
 it, and the other parts of the endive over that. Pour the 
 liquor out of the faucepan into the flew pan, ftir the whole 
 together, and feafon it with fait. Plave ready the yolks 
 of two eggs, beat up with a quarter of a pint of cream, 
 and a little grated nutmeg. Mix this with the fauce, keep 
 ftirring it one way till it is thick, then pour it over the 
 ragoo, and lerve it to table. 
 
 Cabbage Force-meagre. 
 
 TAKE a fine white-heart cabbage, wafh it clean, and 
 boil it about five minutes. Then drain it, cut the ftalk flat 
 to fiand in a difh, carefully open the leaves, and take out 
 the infide, leaving the outfide leaves whole. Cut what you 
 take out very fine: then take the flefh of two or three 
 flounders or plaice, and chop it with the cabbage, the 
 yolks and whites of four eggs boiled hard, and a handful 
 of picked parfley. Beat all together in a mortar, with a 
 quarter of a pound of melted butter. Then mix it up 
 with the yolk of an egg, and a few crumbs of bread. Fill 
 the cabbage with this, and tie it together; put it into a 
 deep ftew-pan, with half a pint of water, a quarter of a 
 pound of butter rolled in a little flour, the yolks of four 
 
 eggs 
 
I 
 
 VEGETABLES, &c. - m 
 
 eggs boiled hard, an onion (tuck with fix cloves, fome 
 whole pepper and mace tied in a muflin rag, half an 
 ounce of truffles and morels, a fpoonful of catchup, and a 
 few pickled mufhrooms. Cover it clofe, and let it fim- 
 mer an hour. When it is done, take out the onion and 
 fpice, lay the cabbage in your diffl, untie it, pour over 
 the fauce, and lerve it to table. 
 
 Afparagus forced in French-rolls. 
 
 CUT a piece out of the cruft of the tops of three 
 French rolls, and take out all the crumb; but be careful 
 that the crufts fit again in the places from whence they 
 were taken. Fry the rolls brown in frefh butter: then 
 take a pint of cream, the yolks of fix eggs beat fine, and 
 a little fait and nutmeg. Stir them well together'over a 
 flow fire till it begins to be thick. . Have ready an hun¬ 
 dred of fmall grafs boiled, and fave tops enough to ftick 
 the rolls with. Cut the reft of the tops fmall, put them 
 into the cream, and fill the loaves with them. Before 
 you fry the rolls, make holes thick in the top crufts to 
 ftick the grafs in. Then lay on the pieces of cruft, and 
 ftick the grafs in, which will make it look as if it was 
 growing. This makes a very handfome fide difh at a 
 fecond courfe. 
 
 Peas Francois. 
 
 SHELL a quart of peas, cut a large Spanilh onion 
 fmall, and two cabbage or Silefia lettuces. Put them 
 into a ftew-pan, with half a pint of water, a little fait, pep¬ 
 per, mace, and nutmeg, all beaten. Cover them clofe, 
 and let them ftew a quarter of an hour. Then put in a 
 quarter of a pound of frefh-butter rolled in a little flour, a 
 fpoonful of catchup, and a piece of burnt butter about the 
 fize of a nutmeg. Cover them clofe, and let it fimmer a 
 quarter of an hour, obferving frequently to fhake the pan. 
 Have ready four artichoke bottoms fryed, and cut in 
 two, and when you pour the peas with their fauce into a 
 difh, lay them round it. If you chufe to make a pleafing 
 addition,do a cabbage in the manner diredted in the article 
 Cabbage Force-meagre , and put in the middle of the difh. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
112 
 
 GRAVIES, &c. 
 
 C H A P. XI. 
 
 / 
 
 GRAVIES, CULLISES, and other SAUCES. 
 
 I N the preceding chapters we have, where a proper 
 opportunity offered, diredted the neceffary fauces to be 
 made for each refpective article $ but as there are many 
 others which are ufed for different purpofes,and on various 
 occafions, we fhall place them all in the prefent chapter, 
 beginning with 
 
 Gravies. 
 
 TO make beef gravy, take a piece of the chuck, or 
 neck, and cut it into fmall pieces; then drew fome flour 
 over it, mix it well with the meat, and put it into the lauce- 
 pan, with as much water as will cover it, an onion, a little 
 all-fpice, a little pepper, and fome fait. Cover it clofe, and 
 when it boils take off the feum, then throw in a hard cruft 
 of bread, or fome rafpings, and let it ftew till the gravy is 
 rich and good, then (train it off, and pour it into your 
 fauce-boat. 
 
 A very rich Gravy. 
 
 TAKE a piece of lean beef, a piece of veal, and a piece 
 of mutton, and cut them into fmall bits: then take a large 
 faucepan with a cover, lay your beef at the bottom, then 
 your mutton, then a very little piece of bacon, a (lice or 
 two of carrot, fome mace, cloves, whole black and white 
 pepper, a large onion cut in dices, a bundle of fweet- 
 herbs, and then lay on your veal. Cover it clofe, and fet 
 it over a flow fire for fix or feven minutes, and fhake the 
 faucepan often. Then duft fome dour into it, and pour 
 in boiling water till the meat is fome thing more than co¬ 
 vered. Cover your faucepan clofe, and let it ftew 7 till it 
 is rich and good. Then feafon it to your tafte with fait, 
 and drain it off.'—This gravy will be lo good as to anfwer 
 jnoft purpofes. 
 
 Brovin Gravy. 
 
 PUT a piece of butter, about the fize of a hen’s egg, 
 into a faucepan, and when it is melted fhake in a little 
 
 flour. 
 
GRAVIES, &c. 113 
 
 flour, and let it be brown. Then by degrees ftir in the 
 fallowing ingredients: Half a pint of water, and the fame 
 quantity of ale or fmall beer that is not bitter; an onion 
 and a piece of lemon-peel cut fmall, three cloves, a 
 blade of mace, fome whole pepper, a lpoonful of 
 mufhroom-pickle, the fame quantity of catchup, and 
 an anchovy. Let the whole boil together a quarter of an 
 hour, then ftrain it, and it will be good lauce for various 
 difhes. 
 
 A Cullisfor all forts of Ragoos and rich Sauces. 
 
 TAKE about two pounds of leg of veal, and two 
 dices of lean ham, and put them into a ftew-pan, with 
 two or three cloves, a little nutmeg, a blade of mace, 
 fome parfley roots, two carrots cut in pieces, fome 
 ftialots, and two bay-leaves. Set them over a How fire, 
 cover them clofe, and let them do gently for half an 
 hour, taking care they do not burn : then put in fome 
 beef broth, let it flew till it is as rich as required, and 
 then ftrain it off for ufe. 
 
 A Family Cullis. 
 
 TAKE apiece of butter.rolled in flour, and ftir it in 
 your ftew-pan till your flour is of a fine yellow colour; 
 then put in fome thin broth, a little gravy, a glafs of 
 white wine, a bundle of parfley, thyme, laurel and 
 fweet-bafil, two cloves, a little nutmeg or mace, a few 
 mufhrooms, and pepper and fait. Let it ftew an hour 
 over a flow fire, then fkim all the fat clean off, and 
 ftrain it through a lawn fleve. 
 
 A White Cullis. 
 
 CUT a piece of veal into fmall bits, and put it into 
 a ftew-pan, with two or three dices of lean ham, and 
 two onions, each cut into four pieces; then put in fome 
 broth, and feafon with mufhrooms, parfley, green onions, 
 and cloves. Let it ftew till the virtues of all are pretty 
 well extracted; then take out all your meat and roots 
 with a fkimmer, put in a few crumbs of bread, and let 
 it ftew foftly. Take the white part of a young fowl, 
 and pound it in a mortar till it is very fine, put this 
 
 III. P into 
 
114 GRAVIES, &c. 
 
 into your cullis, but do not let it boil: if it does not 
 appear diffidently white, you mud add two dozen of 
 blanched almonds. When it has dewed till it is of a 
 good rich tafle, drain it off*. 
 
 A Cullis for FiJJi . 
 
 BROIL a jack or pike, till it is properly done, then 
 take off the (kin, and feparate the fledi from the bones. 
 Boil fix eggs hard, and take out the yolks; blanch a 
 few almonds, beat them to a pade in a mortar, and then 
 add the yolks of the eggs: mix thefe well with butter, 
 then put in the filh, and pound all together. Then take 
 half a dozen onions, and cut them into fiices, two 
 parfnips, and three carrots. Set on a dew-pan, put 
 into it a piece of butter to brown, and when it boils put 
 in the roots turn them till they are brown, and then 
 pour in a little broth to moiden them. When it has 
 boiled a few minutes, drain it into another faucepanj 
 then put in a whole leek, fome parfley, fweet bad), 
 half a dozen cloves, fome mufhrooms and truffles, and 
 a few crumbs of bread. When it has dewed gently a 
 quarter of an hour, put in the filh, &c. from the mortar 
 Let the whole dew fome time longer, but be careful it. 
 does not boil. When fufficiently done {brain it through 
 a coarfe fieve. This is a very proper fauce to thicken 
 all made-difhes. 
 
 A Cullis of Roots. 
 
 TAKE fome carrots, parfnips, parfley roots, and 
 onions: cut them in fiices, put them into a dew-pan 
 over the fire, and fhake them round. Take two dozen 
 of blanched almonds, and the crumbs of two French 
 rolls, foaked firdin good fifii broth. Pound them, with 
 the roots, in a mortar, and then boil all together.— 
 Seafon it with pepper and fait, drain it off, and ufe it 
 for herb or filh foups. 
 
 Ham Sauce , 
 
 CUT fome thin fiices of the lean part of a drefied, 
 ham, and beat it with a rolling-pin to a mafia. Put it 
 into a faucepan, with a tea-cup full of gravy, and let it 
 over a flow fire*, but keep during it to prevent its 
 
 flicking 
 
GRAVIES, 115 
 
 flicking at the bottom. When it has been on fome 
 time, put in a bunch of fweet herbs, half a pint of beef 
 gravy, and fome pepper. Cover it clofe, let it dew 
 over a gentle fire, and when it is quite done, drain it oft. 
 This is a very good fauce for any kind of veal. 
 
 EJfence of Ham . 
 
 TAKE three or four pounds of lean ham, and cut it 
 into pieces about an inch thick. Lay them in the bottom 
 of a dew-pan, with dices of carrots, parfnips, and three 
 or four onions cut thin. Let them dew till they dick to 
 the pan, but do not let it burn. Then pour on fome 
 drong veal gravy by degrees, fome frefh mufhrooms cut 
 in pieces (but if not to be had, mufhroom powder), 
 truffles and morels, cloves, bafil, parfley, a crud of 
 bread, and a leek. Cover it down clofe, and when it has 
 fimmered till it is of a good thicknefs and flavour, drain 
 it off. If you have prelerved the gravy from a drefied 
 ham, you may ufe it with the before-mentioned ingre¬ 
 dients, indead of the ham, which will make it equally 
 good, but not quite fo high flavoured. 
 
 Sicilian Sauce. 
 
 TAKE half a fpoonful of coriander feeds, and four 
 cloves, and bruife them in a mortar. Put three quarters 
 of a pint of good gravy, and a quarter of a pint of efience 
 of ham, into a dew-pan. Peel half a lemon, and cut it 
 into very thin dices, and put it in with the coriander 
 feeds and cloves. Let them boil up, and then add three 
 cloves of garlic whole, a head of celery diced, two bay- 
 leaves, and a little bafil. Let thefe boil till the liquor 
 is reduced to half the quantity. Then put in a glafs of 
 white wine, drain it off, and if not thick enough, put 
 in a piejce of butter rolled in flour. This is a good fauce 
 for road-fowls. 
 
 Sauce for any Kind of Roaf Meat. 
 
 TAKE an anchovy, wafh it clean, and put to it a 
 glafs of red wine, fome gravy, a fhalot cut fmall, and a 
 little juice of lemon. Stew thefe together, drain it off, 
 find mix it with the gravy that runs from the meat. 
 
 P 2 
 
 Sauce 
 
n 6 SAUCES. 
 
 Sauce for moji kinds of Fifh. 
 
 TAKE fome mutton or veal gravy, and put to it a 
 little of the liquor that drains from your fifh. Put it 
 into a faucepan, with an onion, an anchovy, a fpoonful 
 of catchup, and a glafs of white wine. Thicken it with 
 a lump of butter rolled in flour, and a fpoonful of cream. 
 If you have oyfters, cockles,, or fhrimps, put them in 
 after you take it off the fire, but it will be exceeding 
 good without. If you have no cream, inftead of white 
 wine you mult life red. 
 
 Egg Sauce. 
 
 BOIL two eggs till they are hard: firft chop the 
 whites, then the yolks, but neither of them very fine, 
 and put them together. Then put them into a quarter 
 of a pound of good melted butter, and ftir them well 
 together. 
 
 Bread Sauce. 
 
 CUT a large piece of crumb from a ftale loaf, and 
 put it into a faucepan, with half a pint of water, an 
 onion, a blade of mace, and a few pepper-corns in a bit 
 of cloth. Boil them a few minutes, then take out the 
 onion and fpice, mafh the bread very fmooth, and add to 
 it a piece of butter and a little fait. 
 
 Anchovy Sauce. 
 
 TAKE an anchovy, and put it in to half a pint of 
 gravy, with a quarter of a pound of butter rolled in a 
 little flour, and ftir all together till it boils. You may 
 add, at your difcretion, a little lemon-juice, catchup, 
 red wine, or walnut-liquor. 
 
 Shrimp Sauce. 
 
 WASH half a pint of fhrinips very clean, and put 
 them into a flew-pan, with a fpoonful of anchovy liquor, 
 and half a pound of butter melted thick. Boil it up for 
 five minutes, and fqueeze in half a lemon. Tofs it up, 
 and pour it into your fauce-boat. 
 
 Oyfler Sauce. 
 
 WHEN the oyfters aie opened, preferve the liquor, 
 and ftrain it through a fine fteve. Walh the oyfters 
 
 very 
 
SAUCES. 117 
 
 very clean, and take off the beards. Put them into a 
 ftew pan, and pour the liquor over them. Then add a 
 large fpoonful of anchovy liquor, half a lemon, two 
 blades of mace, and thicken it with butter rolled in flour. 
 Then putin half a pound of butter, and boil it up up till 
 the butter is melted. Then takeout the mace and lemon, 
 and fqueeze the lemon-juice into the fauce. Give it a 
 boil, ftirring it all the time, and put it into your fauce- 
 boat. 
 
 To melt Butter. 
 
 KEEP a plated or tin faucepan for the ptirpofe only of 
 melting butter. Put a little water at the bottom, and a 
 dull of flour. Shake them together, and cut the butter in 
 llices. As it melts (bake it one way j let it boil up, and 
 it will be fmooth and thick. 
 
 Caper Sauce. 
 
 TAKE i'ome capers, chop half of them very fine, 
 and put the reft in whole. Chop alfo'fome parfley, with 
 a little grated bread, and lome fait; put them into 
 butter melted very fmooth, let them boil up, and then 
 pour it into your lauce-boat. 
 
 Shalot Sauce, 
 
 CHOP five or fix fhalots very fine, put them into a 
 faucepan with a gill of gravy, a fpoonful of vinegar, and 
 fome pepper and fait. Stew them for a minute, and 
 then pour them into your difh or fiuce-boat. 
 
 Lemon Sauce for boiled Fowls. 
 
 TAKE a lemon and pare off the rind, then cut it into 
 dices, take the kernels out, and cut it into fmall lquare 
 bits ; blanch the liver of the fowl, and chop it fine; mix 
 the lemon and liver together in a boat, pour on fome 
 hot melted butter, and ftir it up. 
 
 Goofeberry Sauce. 
 
 PUT fome codied goofeberries, a little juice of forrel, 
 and a little ginger, into fome melted butter. 
 
 Fennel Sauce. 
 
 BOIL a bunch of fennel and parfley, chop it very 
 fmall, and ftir it into fome melted butter. 
 
 Mint 
 
liS SAUCES. 
 
 Mint Sauce. 
 
 WASH your mint perfectly clean from grit or 
 dirt, then chop it very fine, and put to it vinegar and 
 fugar. 
 
 A relijhing Sauce. 
 
 PUT into a fmall dew-pan two flices of ham, a clove 
 of garlick, a laurel leaf, and two diced onions ; let them 
 heat, and then- add a little broth, two fpoonsful of cullis, 
 and a fpoonful of tarragon vinegar. Stew them an hour 
 over a flow fire, then drain it through a fieve, and pour 
 it into your fauce-boat. 
 
 To crifp Par/ley. 
 
 WHEN you have picked and wafhed your pardey 
 quite clean, put it into a Dutch oven, or on a Iheet of 
 paper. Set it at a moderate didance from the fire, and 
 keep turning it till it is quite crifp. Lay little bits of 
 butter on it, but not to make it greafy.—This is a much 
 better method than that of frying. 
 
 Sauce for Wild Ducks, Teal , (3 c. 
 
 TAKE a proper quantity of veal gravy, with fome 
 pepper and fait; fqueeze in the juice of two Seville 
 oranges and add a little red wine; let the red wine boil 
 Tome time in the gravy. 
 
 Pont / Sauce. 
 
 PUT two or three dices of lean veal, and the fame 
 of ham, into a dew pan, with fome diced onions 
 carrot, pardey, and a head of celery. When brown, 
 add a little white wine, fome good broth, a clove of 
 garlick, four fhalots, two cloves, a little coriander, anqlf' 
 two dices of lemon-peel. Boil it over a dow fire till the 
 juices are extracted from the meat, then ddm it, and 
 drain it through a fieve. jud before you ufe it, add a 
 little cullis, with lome pardey chopped very fine. 
 
 Afpic Sauce. 
 
 INFUSE chervil, tarragon, burner, garden-crefs, and 
 mint into a little cullis for about half an hour j then drain 
 it, and add a fpoonful of garlick-vinegar, with a little 
 pepper and fait. 
 
 pores* 
 
*'9 
 
 5 A U C E S. 
 
 Forcemeat Balls . 
 
 TAKE half a pound of veal and half a pound of feet 
 cut fine, and beat them in a marble mortar or wooden 
 bowl, fhred a few fweet-herbs fine, a little mace dried, 
 a fmall nutmeg grated, a little lemon-peel cut very fine, 
 fome pepper and fait, and the yolks of two eggs. Mix 
 all thefe well together, then roll fome of it in irnall round 
 balls, and fome in long pieces. Roll them in flour, and 
 fry them of a nice brown. If they are for the ufe of white 
 fauce, inftead of frying, put a little water into a faucepan 
 and when it boils, put them in, and a few minutes will 
 do them. 
 
 Lemon Pickle. 
 
 TAKE about a fcore of lemons, grate off the cut- 
 rinds very thin, and cut them into quarters, but leave the 
 bottoms whole. Rub on them equally half a pound of 
 bay-fait, and fpread them on a large pewter difh. Either 
 put them in a cool oven, or let them dry gradually by the 
 fire, till the juice is all dried into the peels : then put 
 them into a well glazed pitcher, with an ounce of mace, 
 and half an ounce of cloves beat fine, an ounce of nut¬ 
 meg cut into thin dices, four ounces of garlick peeled, 
 half a pint of muftard-feed bruifed a little, and tied in a 
 muflin bag. Pour upon them tw r o quarts of boiling 
 white wine vinegar, clofe the pitcher well up, and let it 
 fland five or fix days by the fire. Shake it well up every 
 day, then tie it clofe, and let it (land three months to take 
 off the bitter. When you bottle it, put the pickle and 
 lemon into a hair fieve, prefs them well to get out the 
 liquor, and let it {land till another day ; then pour off the 
 fine, and bottle it. Let the other (land three or four 
 days, and it will refine itfelf. Pour it off and bottle it; 
 let it {land again, and bottle it till the whole is refined.— 
 It may be put into any white fauce and will not hurt the 
 colour. It is very good for fifh-fauce and made difhes. 
 One tea-fpoonful is enough for white, and two for brown 
 fence for a fowl. It is a mod ufeful pickle, and gives a 
 pleafant flavour. Always put it in before you thicken 
 the fauce, or put any cream in, left the fharpnefs fhould 
 make it curdle. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
( 120 ) 
 
 C H A P. XII. 
 
 M A D E DISHES * 
 
 SECT. I. 
 
 BU'TCHER’s M E A T. 
 
 Bombarded Veal. 
 
 PTAAKE a fillet of veal, and having clean cut out the 
 bone, make a forcemeat thus: Take the crumb of 
 a penny loaf, half a pound of fat bacon feraped, an 
 anchovy, two or three fprigs of fweet marjoram, a little 
 lemon-peel, thyme, and parfley. Chop thefe well toge¬ 
 ther, and fealbn them to your talle with fait, chyan 
 pepper, and a little grated nutmeg. Mix up all together 
 with an egg, and a little cream ; and with this forcemeat 
 fill up the place from whence the bone was taken. Then 
 make cuts all round the fillet at about an inch diftance 
 from each other, Fill one nich with forcemeat, a fecond 
 with fpinach that has been well boiled and fqueezed, and 
 a third with crumbs of bread, chopped oyflers, and 
 beef marrow, and thus fill up the holes round the filler. 
 Wrap the caul ciofe round it, and put it in a deep pot, 
 with a pint of water. Make a coarfe pafte to lay over it 
 in order to prevent the oven giving it a difagreeable tafte. 
 When it is taken out of the oven, fkim off the far, and 
 put the gravy into a (lew-pan, with a fpoonful of 
 mufhroom catchup, another of lemon-pickle, five 
 boiled artichoke bottoms cut into quarters, two fpoons- 
 ful of browning, and half an ounce of morels and truffles. 
 Thicken it with butter rolled in flour, give it a gentle 
 boil, put your veal into the cliffs, and pour your fauce 
 over it. 
 
 Fricando of Veal. 
 
 CUT the thick part of a leg of veal into (leaks half 
 an inch thick, and about fix inches in length. Lard 
 them with fmall chardoons, and dredge them with flour. 
 
 Hang 
 
M E A T. 121 
 
 Hang them before the fire till they are of a fine brawn; 
 then put them into a large (lew-pan with a quart of good 
 gravy, and let them (tew half an hour. Then put in 
 a (lice of lemon, a little anchovy, two tea fpoonsful of 
 lemon pickle, a large fpoonful of walnut catchup, the 
 fame of browning, a little 1 chyan pepper, and a few mo¬ 
 rels and truffles. When your fricandoes are tender, 
 take them up, and thicken your gravy with butter and 
 flour. Strain it, put your fricandoes in the difh, pour 
 your gravy on them, and garnifh with lemon and barber¬ 
 ries. You may like wife put round them fome fried force¬ 
 meat balls. 
 
 Veal Olives. 
 
 CUT fome large collops off a fillet of veal, and hack 
 them well with the back of a knife. Spread very thinly 
 force-meat over each, then roll them up, and either toaft 
 or bake them. Make a ragoo of oyflers and fweetbreads 
 cut in lquare bits, a few mufhrooms and morels, and lay 
 them in the difh with the rolls of veal. Put nice brown 
 gravy into the difh, and fend them up hot, with force¬ 
 meat balls round them. Garniih with lemon. 
 
 A Grenade of Veal. 
 
 TAKE fome dices of veal cut thin from the fillet, and 
 laid them half way with bacon. Then take a dozen 
 fquab pigeons clean picked and miffed, put them into a 
 pan of boiling water, and let them lie in it two or three 
 minutes. Having done this, put into a (lew-pan fome 
 good gravy, with a dozen mulhrooms picked and diced, 
 and three veal fweetbreads cut and diced. Put the 
 pigeons to thefe articles, and fet the (lew-pan over a 
 very dow fire. When the pigeons and fweetbreads are 
 enough, thicken the gravy with fome rich cullis, and 
 add fome cocks combs, with artichoke bottoms (hred 
 fmall. Let thefe (lew a little while, and then let them 
 to cool. Cut fome thin dices of ham and bacon, put 
 in fome force-meat, then the larded veal into a (lew- 
 pan, and lay the ham and bacon over it; put fome yolks 
 of eggs over, the ham and veal, and then more force¬ 
 meat : then put in the ragoo of pigeons, and turn the 
 
 IV, ~ dices 
 
122 
 
 MADE DISHES. 
 
 lliccs of veal and bacons put over them more forcemeat 
 rubbed over with yolks of eggs, and cover them with dices 
 of bacon. Cover the dew-pan dole, and put fire under and 
 over it, but be careful it does not burn. When done, turn 
 it all hot into a dish, take away the bafon, fkim off the fat, 
 put in lome veal cullis, and ferve it up. Garnifh with le¬ 
 mon, and pickles. 
 
 Porcupine cf a Breajl of' Veal. 
 
 TAKE a fine large bread of veal, bone it, and rub it 
 over with the yolks of two eggs. Spread it on a table, 
 and lay over it a little bacon cut as thin as polfible, a 
 handful of pardey fhred fine, the yolks of five hard boiled 
 eggs chopped fmall, a little lemon-peel cut fine, the crumb 
 of a penny loaf deeped in cream, and leafon to your 
 tade with lalt, pepper, and nutmeg. Roll the bread of 
 veal clofe, and fkewer it up. Then cut fome fat bacon, 
 the lean of ham that has been a little boiled, and pickled 
 cucumbers, about two inches long. Lard the veal with 
 this in rows s fird ham, then bacon, and then cucumbers, 
 till you have larded every part of it. Put it into a deep 
 earthen pot, with a pint of wafer, cover it clofe, and fet 
 it in a dow oven for two hours. When it comes from 
 the oven, fkim off the fat, and drain the gravy through 
 a fieve into a dew-pan. Put into it a glafs of white wine, 
 a little lemon-pickle and caper-liquor, and a fpoonful of 
 mudiroom catchup. Thicken it with a little butter 
 rolled in dour, lay your porcupine on the didi, and pour 
 your fauce over it. Have rsady a roll of force-meat 
 made thin : take the crumb cf a penr.y-loaf, half a pound 
 of beef fuet fhred fine, the yolks of four eggs, and a 
 few chopped oyders. Mix thefe well together, and 
 feaion it to your tade with chyan pepper, fait, and 
 nutmeg. Spread it on a veal caul, and having rolled it 
 up dole like a collared eel, bind it in a cloth, and boil it 
 an hour. 1 his done, cut it into four dices, lay one at 
 each end, and the others on the fides. Have ready your 
 f.veetbread cut in dices and fried, and lay them round 
 it, with a few mufhrooms.—This makes a grand bot¬ 
 tom difh at that time of the year when game is not to 
 be had. 
 
 Veal 
 
MEAT. 
 
 123 
 
 Veal a-la-Bourgeoife. 
 
 CUT Tome lean veal into thick dices, lard them with 
 bacon, and leafon them with pepper, fait, beaten mace, 
 cloves, nutmeg, and chopped parfley. Put in.the bottom 
 of your ftew-pan fome Dices of fat bacon, lay the veal 
 upon them, cover the pan, and fet it over the fire for 
 eight or ten minutes,juft to be hot, and no more. Then, 
 with a brifk fire, brown your veal on both fides, and fhake 
 fome flour over it. Pour in a quart of good broth or 
 gravy, cover it dole, and let it ftew gently till it is 
 enough. Then take out the Dices of bacon, fkim all the 
 fat off clean, and beat up the yolks of three eggs, with 
 fome of the gravy. Mix all together, and keep it ftir- 
 ring one way till it is fmooth and thick. Then take it up, 
 lay your meat in the difti, pour the fauce over it, and gar- 
 nifh with lemon. 
 
 Calf's Head Surprife. 
 
 WHEN you have properly cleanfed it for drefling* 
 ferape a pound of fat bacon very fine, take the crumbs 
 of two penny loaves, a frnall nutmeg grated, and feafon 
 to your tafte with fait, chyan pepper, and a little lemon- 
 peel. Beat up the yolks of fix eggs, and mix all toge¬ 
 ther into a rich force-meat. Put a little of it into the 
 ears, and the reft into the head. Then put it into a deep 
 pot, juft wide enough to admit it, and put to it two 
 quarts of water, half a pint of white wine, a blade or 
 two of mace, a bundle of fweet-herbs, an anchovy, two 
 fpoonsful of walnut and mufhrQom catchup, the fame 
 quantity of lemon-pickle, and a little fait and chyan 
 pepper. Lay a coarfe pafte over it to keep in the fteam, 
 and put it for two hours and a half into a very quick 
 oven. When you take it out, lay the head in a loup- 
 difh, fleim off the fat from the gravy, and (train it 
 through a hair fieve into a ftew-pan. Thicken it with 
 a lump ot butter rolled in flour, and when it has boiled 
 a few minutes, put in the yolks of fix eggs well beaten, 
 and mixed with half a pint of cream. Have ready 
 boiled a few force-meat bills, and half an ounce of 
 truflics and morels, but do not ftew them in the gravy. 
 
 Q^2 Pour 
 
124 MADE DISHES. 
 
 Pour the gravy over the head, and garni fh with truffles 
 and morels, force-meat balls, barberries and mufbrooms. 
 This makes an elegant top dill), and is not very ex* 
 pen five.' , 
 
 A Calf's Pluck . 
 
 ROAST the heart fluffed with fuet, fweet-herbs, and 
 a little parfley, all chopped fmall, a few crumbs of 
 bread, fome pepper, fait, nutmeg, and a little lemon- 
 peel, all mixed up with the yolk of an egg. Boil the 
 lights with part of the liver, and when they are enough, 
 chop them very fmall, and put them into a faucepan 
 with a piece of butter rolled in flour, fome pepper and 
 fa.lt, and a little juice of lemon. Fry the other part of 
 the liver with fome thin flices of bacon. Lay the mince 
 at the bottom of the difh, the heart in the middle, and 
 the fried liver and bacon round, with fome criiped 
 parfley. Serve them up with plain melted butter in 
 a fauce-boat. 
 
 Loin oj Veal en Epigram. 
 
 ROAST a loin of veal properly for eating, then take 
 it up, and carefully cut off the fkin from the back part 
 without breaking it. Cut out all the lean part, but leave the 
 ends whole, to contain the following mincemeat: Mince 
 all the meat very fine with the kidney part, put it into 
 a little gravy, enough to moiften it with the gravy 
 that comes from the loin. Put .in a little pepper and 
 fait, fome lemon-peel fhred fine, the yolks of three eggs, 
 and a fpoonful of catchup. Thicken it with a little but¬ 
 ter rolled in flour. Give it a fhake or two over the fire, 
 put it into the loin, and pull the fkin gently over it. if 
 the fkin fhould not quite cover it, give the part wanting a 
 brown with a hot iron, or put it into an oven for about a 
 quarter of an hour. Send it up hot, and garnifh with le¬ 
 mon and barberries, 
 
 pillow of Veal. 
 
 HALF roafl: a neck or breaft of veal, then cut it into 
 fix pieces, and feafon it with pepper, fait, and nutmeg. 
 Take a pound of rice and put to it a quart of broth, 
 fome mace, and a little fait. Stew it over a ftove on a 
 
 very 
 
M E A T. 
 
 very flow fire, till it is thick3 but butter the bottom of 
 the pan you do it in. Beat up the yolks of fix eggs, and 
 dir them into it. Then take a little round deep difh, butter 
 it, and lay fome of the rice at the bottom. Then lay the 
 veal in a round heap, and cover it all over with rice. Rub 
 it over with the yolks of eggs, and bake it an hour and a 
 half. Then open the top, and pour in a pint of good rich 
 gravy. Send it hot to table, and garnifli with a Seville 
 orange cut in quarters. 
 
 Shoulder of Veal a la Piedmontoife. 
 
 CUT the fkin off a fhoulder of veal, fo that it may 
 hang at one end 3 then lard die meat with bacon or ham, 
 and feafon it with pepper, fait, mace, fweet-herbs, parfley, 
 and lemon-peel. Cover it again with the fkin, flew it with 
 gravy, and when it is tender, take it up. Then take forrel, 
 fome lettuce chopped fmall, and flew them in fome butter 
 with parfley, onions, and mufhrooms. When the herbs 
 are tender, put to them fome of the liquor, fome fweet- 
 breads, and bits of ham. Let all flew together a fliort 
 time 3 then lift up the fkin, lay the (tewed herbs over and 
 under, cover it again with the fkin, moifien it with melted 
 butter, drew over it crumbs of bread, and fend it to the 
 oven to brown. Serve it up hot, with fome good gravy 
 in the difh. 
 
 Sweetbreads of Veal a la Dauphine. 
 
 TAKE three of the larged fweetbreads you can get, 
 and open them in fuch a manner that you can duff in 
 force-meat. Make your force-meat with a large fowl or 
 young cock : fkin it, and pick off all the flelh. Then 
 take half a pound of fat and lean bacon, cut it very fine, 
 and beat them in a mortar. Seafion it with an anchovy, 
 fome nutmeg, a little lemon-peel, a very little thyme, 
 and fome parfley. Mix thefe up with the yolks of two 
 eggs, fill your fweetbreads with it, and faden them toge¬ 
 ther with fine wooden fkewtrs. Put layers of bacon at 
 the bottom of a dew-pan, and feafon them with pepper, 
 fait, mace, cloves, fweet-herbs, and a large onion 
 diced. Lay upon thefe thin dices of veal, and then 
 your fweetbreads. Cover it clofe, let it dand eight or 
 
 ten 
 
126 MADE DISHES. 
 
 ten minutes over a flow fire, and then pour in a quart of 
 boiling water or broth, and let it flew gendy for two hours. 
 Then take out the fweetbreads, keep them hot, ftrain the 
 gravy, fkim all the fat off, and boil it up till it is reduced 
 to about half a pint. Then put in the fweet-breads, and 
 let them flew two or three minutes in the gravy. Lay 
 them in a dilh, and pour the gravy over them. Garnifh 
 with lemon. 
 
 Sweetbreads en GorSincere. 
 
 PARBOIL three fweetbreads; then take a flew-pan, 
 and put in it layers of bacon, or ham and veal; over 
 which lay the fweetbreads, with the upper tides down¬ 
 wards.- Put in a layer of veal and bacon over them, a 
 pint of veal broth, and three or four blades of mace. ,Stew 
 them gently three quarters of an hour ; then take out 
 the fweetbreads, flrain the gravy through a fieve, and 
 fkim off die fat. Make an amulet of yolks of eggs, in 
 the following manner: Beat up four yolks of eggs, put 
 two on a plate, and fet them over a ftew-pan of boiling 
 water, with another plate over it, and it will be foon 
 done. Put a little Spinach-juice into the other half, and 
 ferve it the fame. Cut it out in fprigs of what form you 
 pleafe, put it over the fweetbreads in the difh, and keep 
 them as hot as you can. Thicken the gravy with butter 
 rolled in flour, and two yolks of eggs beat up in a gill 
 of cream. Put it over the fire, and keep ftirring it one 
 way till it is thick and fmooth. Pour ip over the fweet¬ 
 breads, and fend it to table. Garnifh with lemon and 
 beet-root. 
 
 A favory DiJJi of Veal. 
 
 CUT fome large coliops from a leg of veal, fpread 
 them on a dreffer, hack them with the back of a knife, 
 and dip them into the yolks of eggs. Seafon them with 
 cloves, mace, nutmeg, and pepper, beaten fine. Make 
 force-meat with fome of your veal, beef fuet, oyfteis 
 chopped, fweet-herbs Hired fine, and the aforefaid fpices. 
 Strew all thefe over your coliops, roll and tie them up, 
 put them on fkewers, tie them to a fpit, and roaft them. 
 To the reft of your force-meat add a raw egg or two, roll 
 
 it 
 
MEAT. 1 2 7 
 
 it in balls, and fry them. Put them into the difh with 
 the meat when roafted, and make the fauce with ftrong 
 broth, an anchovy, a fhalot, a little white wine, and 
 fome fpice. Let it ftew and thicken it with a piece of 
 butter rolled in flour. Pour the fauce into the difh, lay 
 the meat in with the force-meat balls, and garnilh with 
 lemon. 
 
 / 
 
 Sweetbreads a-la-daub. 
 
 TAKE three of the larged and fined fweetbreads you 
 can get, and put them for five minutes into a faucepan 
 of boiling water. Then take them out, and when they 
 are cold, lard them with fmall pieces of bacon, a row 
 down the middle; then a row on each fide, with lemon- 
 peel cut the fize of a draw; then a ro w on each fide of 
 pickled cucumbers, cut very fine. Put them into a 
 ftewpan with fome good veal gravy, a little lemon-juice, 
 and a fpoonful of browning. Stew them gently a 
 quarter of an hour, and a little before they are ready 
 thicken with flour and butter. Difn them up, and pour 
 the gravy over them. Lay round them bunches of 
 boiled celery, or oyfter patties s and garnilh with barber¬ 
 ries of parfiey. 
 
 Scotch Collops. 
 
 CUT your collops off the thick part of a leg of veal, 
 about the fize and thicknefs of a crown piece, and put a 
 piece of butter browned into your frying-pan, then lay 
 in your collops, and fry them over a quick fire. Shake 
 and turn them, and keep them on a fine froth. When 
 they are of a nice light brown take them out, put them 
 into a pot, and fet them before the fire to keep warm. 
 Then put cold butter again into your pan, and fry the 
 collops as. before. When they are done and properly 
 brown, pour, the liquor from them into ltew-pan, and 
 add to it half a pint of gravy, half a lemon, an anchovy, 
 half an ounce of morels, a large fpoonful of browning, 
 the fame of catchup, two fpoonsful of lemon-pickle, and 
 feafon to your tade with fait and chyan pepper. Thicken 
 it.with butter and flour, let it boil five or fix minutes, 
 and then put in your collops, and fbake them over the 
 
 fire, 
 
128 MADE DISHES. 
 
 fire, but be careful not to let them boil. When they 
 have fimmered a little, take them out, and lay them in 
 the difm Then ftrain your gravy, and pour it hot on 
 them. Lay on them forcemeat balls, and little flices 
 of bacon curled round a fkewer and boiled. Throw a 
 few mufhrooms over them, and garnifh with barberries 
 and lemon. 
 
 Beef Collops. 
 
 TAKE a large rump fteak, or any piece of beef that 
 is tender, and cut it into pieces in the form of Scotch 
 collops, but larger. Hack them a little with a knife, then 
 flour them, and having melted a little butter in your (lew- 
 pan, put in your collops, and fry them quick for about 
 two minutes. Then put in a pint of gravy, a bit of butter 
 rolled in flour, and feafon it with pepper and fait. Cut four 
 pickled cucumbers into thin flices, a few capers, half a 
 walnut, and a little onion (bred fine. Put thefe into the 
 pan, and having ftewed the whole together about five mi¬ 
 nutes, put them all hot into your dilh, and fend them to 
 table. Garnifh with lemon. 
 
 Beef a-la-daub. 
 
 TAKE a rump of beef, and cut out the bone, or a 
 part of the 3 eg-of mutton piece, or what is dually called 
 the moule-buttock, and cut fome fat bacon .into flices as 
 long as the beef is thick, and about a quarter of an inch 
 fquare. Take four blades of mace, double that number 
 of cloves, a little all-ipice, and half a nutmeg grated 
 fine. Chop a good handful of parfley, and fome fweet- 
 herbs of all forts very fine, and feafon with fait and 
 pepper. Roll the bacon in thefe, and then rake a large 
 larding pin, and with it thruft the bacon through the 
 beef. Having done this, put it into a ftew-pan, with a 
 quantity of brown gravy luflicient to cover it. Chop 
 three blades of garlick very fine, and put in fome freih 
 mufhrooms, two large onions, and a carrot. Stew it 
 gently for fix hours, then take it out, ftrain off the 
 gravy, and fkim off all the fat. Puc your meat and 
 gravy into the pan again, and add to it a giil of white 
 wine; and if you find it not Efficiently kafoned, add a 
 
 little 
 
MEAT. i2C£ 
 
 little more pepper and fait. Stew it gently for half an 
 hour more, and then add fome artichoke bottoms, morels 
 and truffles, fome oyfters, and a fpoonful of vinegar. 
 Then put the meat into a foup-dilh, and pour the fauce 
 over it. 
 
 Beef Tremblent. 
 
 TAKE a brifket of beef, and tie up the fat end quite 
 tight. Put it into a pot of water, and let it boil grntly 
 for fix hours. Seafon the water with a little fait, a hand¬ 
 ful of all-fpice, two onions, two turnips, and a carrot. In 
 the mean time put a piece of butter into a ftew-pan, and 
 melt it ; then put in two fpoonsful of flour, and flir it till 
 it is fmooth. Put in a quart of gravy, a fpoonful of 
 catchup, the fame of browning, a gill of white wine, and 
 fome turnips and carrots cut into fmall pieces. Stew 
 them gently till the roots are tender, and feafon with pep¬ 
 per and fait. Skim the fat clean off', put the beef in the 
 difh, and pour the fauce over it.-—Garnifh with any kind 
 of pickles. 
 
 Beef A-la-mode. 
 
 THE mod proper parts for this purpofe are, a fmall 
 buttock, a leg-of-mutton piece, a clod, or part of a large 
 buttock. Being furnifhed with your meat, take two 
 dozen of cloves, as much mace, and half an ounce of 
 all fpice beat fine: chop a large handful of parflev, and 
 all forts of fweet-herbs fine; cut fome fat bacon as long 
 as the beef is thick, and about a quarter of an inch 
 fquare, and put into it the fpice, &c. and into the beef 
 the fame. Then put the beef into a pot, and cover it 
 with water. Chop four large onions very fine, and fix 
 cloves of garlic, fix bay-leaves, and a handful of cham¬ 
 pignons, or frefh mufhrooms, put all into the pot, with 
 a pint of porter or ale, and half a pint of red wine; put 
 in fome pepper and fait, fome chyan pepper, a fpoonful 
 of vinegar, ftrew three handfuls of bread rafpings, fifed 
 fine, over all; cover the pot clofe, and flew it for fix 
 hours, or according to the fize of the piece if a large 
 piece, eight hours. Then take the beef our, put it into 
 a deep dilh,^and keep it hot over fome boiling water; 
 IV. R Arab 
 
130 MADE DISHES. 
 
 ftrain the gravy through a fieve,and pick out the champig¬ 
 nons or mufhrooms; fkim all the fat off clean, put it into 
 your pot again, and give it a boil up ; if not feafoned 
 enough, fcafon it to your liking; then put the gravy over 
 your beef, and lend it hot to table. If you like it beft 
 cold, cut in Dices with the gravy over it, which will be a 
 flrong jelly. 
 
 Beef a-la-royal. 
 
 TAKE all the bones out of a brifket of beef, and 
 make holes in it about an inch from each other. Fill 
 one hole with fat bacon, a fecond with chopped parfley, 
 and a third with chopped oyfters. Seafon thefe findings 
 ■with pepper, fait, and nutmeg. When the beef is com¬ 
 pletely fluffed, put it into a pan, pour upon it a pint of 
 wine boiling hot, dredge it well with flour, and fend it 
 to the oven. Let it remain there three hours, and when 
 it is taken out, fkim off all the fat, put the meat into 
 your difh, and drain the gravy over it. Garnifh with 
 pickles. 
 
 BeeJ Olives. 
 
 CUT fome fleaks from a rump of beef about half an 
 inch thick, as fquare as you can, and about ten inches 
 long ; then cut a piece of fat bacon as wide as the beef^ 
 and about three parts as long. Put part of the yolk of 
 an egg on the beef, the bacon on that, and the yolk of 
 an egg on the bacon. Lay feme good favory force-meat 
 on that, fome of the yolk of an egg on the force-meat, 
 and then roll them up, and tie them round with a firing 
 in two places. Strew on fome crumbs of bread, and 
 over them fome of the yolk of an egg. Then fry them 
 brown in a large pan, with fome beef dripping, and when 
 they are done take them out, and lay them to drain. 
 Melt fome butter in a flew-pan, put in a fpoonful of 
 flour, and ftir it well till it is fmooth. Then put in a 
 pint of good gravy, with a gill of white wine, and then 
 the olives, and let them flew an hour. Add fome 
 mufhrooms, truffles, and morels, force-meat balls, fweet- 
 breads cur in ffnall pieces, and fome ox-palates. Squeeze 
 in the juice of half a lemon, and feafon it with pepper 
 
 and 
 
• MEAT. 131 
 
 and fait. Shake them up, and having carefully fkimraed 
 off the fat, lay your olives in the difh, and pour the gravy 
 over them. Garnifh with lemon and beec-root. 
 
 Bouillie Beef. 
 
 PUT the thick end of a brifket of beef into a kettle, 
 and cover it with water. Let it boil fad for two hours, 
 then fte.v it clofe bv the fire fide for fix hours more, and 
 fill up the kettle as the water decreafes. Put in with the 
 beef fome turnips cut in little balls, fome carrots, and 
 fome celery. About an hour before the meat is done, 
 take out as much broth as will fill your foup-difh, and 
 boil in it, for an hour, turnips and carrots cut in little round 
 or fquare pieces, with f ime celery, and feafon it to your 
 tade with fait and pepper. Serve it up in two diihes, the 
 beef in one difh, and the foup in another. You may put 
 pieces of fried bread in your foup, and boil in a few knots 
 of greens; and if you would have yuur foup very rich, add 
 a pound or two of mutton chops to your broth when you 
 take it from the beef, and let them (lew in it for an hour; 
 but remember to take out the mutton before you ferve the 
 foup up. 
 
 Portugal Beef. 
 
 CUT off the meat from a rump of beef, hack it acrofs, 
 and flour it. Fry the thin part brown in butter, and duff 
 the thick end with fuet, boiled chefnuts, an anchovy, an 
 onion, and a little pepper. Put it into a dew-pan with fome 
 good drong broth, and when it is tender, lay both the fried 
 and the dewed together in your difh. Cut the fried in 
 two, and lay it on each fide of the dewed. Strain the gravy 
 in which it was dewed, put to it fome pickled gerkins 
 chopped, and lbme broiled chefnuts. Thicken it with a 
 piece of burnt butter, and give it two or three boils up. 
 Sealon it to your palate w^th fait, then pour it over the 
 beef, and garnilh with lemon. 
 
 Sirloin of Beef en Epigram. 
 
 ROAST a firloin of beef, and when it is done, take 
 it off the fpit, carefully raife the fkin, and draw it off. 
 Then cut out the lean part of the beef, but obferve not 
 to touch either the ends or fides. Hafli the meat in the 
 
 R 2 following 
 
iga MADE DISHES, 
 
 following manner: cut it info pieces about the fize of a 
 crown piece, put half a pint of gravy into a ftew-pan, an 
 onion chopped fine, two fpoonsful of catchup, fome pepper 
 and fait, fix fmall pickled cucumbers cut in thin flices, and 
 the gravy that comes from the beef, with a little butter 
 rolled in flour. Put in the meat, and fhake it up for five 
 minutes. Then put it on the firloins, draw the flcin care¬ 
 fully over, and fend it to table. Garnifh with lemon and 
 pickles. 
 
 The Infide of a Sirloin of Beef forced. 
 
 LIFT up the fat of the infide, cut out the meat quire 
 clofe to the bone, and chop it fmall. Take a pound of 
 fuet, and chop that fmall; then put to them fome crumbs 
 of bread, a little lemon-peel, thyme, pepper, and fait, half 
 a nutmeg grated, and two fhalots chopped fine. Mix all 
 together with a glafs of red wine, and then put the meat 
 into the place you took it from; cover it with the fkin and 
 fat, lkewer it down with fine fkewers, and cover it with 
 paper. The paper mu ft not be taken off till the meat is 
 put on the difh, and your meat moft be fpitted before you 
 take out the infide. Juft before the meat is done, take a 
 quarter of a pint of red wine, and two fhalots fhred fmall; 
 boil them, and pour it into the difn, with the gravy that 
 comes from the meat. Send it hot to table, and garnifh 
 with lemon. 
 
 The infide of a rump of beef forced muft be done 
 nearly in the fame manner, only lift up the outfide flcin, 
 take the middle of the meat, and proceed as before di¬ 
 rected. Put it into the fame place, and lkewer it down 
 clofe. 
 
 A Round of Beef forced . 
 
 RUB your meat firft with common lalt, then a little 
 bay-fa,t, fome lalt-petre, and coarfe fugar. Let it lay 
 a full week in this pickle, turning it every day. On the 
 day it is to be drefird, wa(h and dry it, lard it a little, 
 and make ho’es, which fill with bread crumbs, marrow, 
 or fuet,' parr lie y, grated lemon-peel, fweet herbs, pepper, 
 fait, nutmeg, and the yolk of an egg, made into fluffing. 
 Bake it with a little water and fome fmall beer, whole 
 pepper, and an onion. When it comes from the oven, 
 
 £kim 
 
M EAT. 133 
 
 fkim the fat clean off, put the meat into your difh, and 
 pour the liquor over it.—Inftead of baking, you may boil 
 it, but it muft be done gradually over a flow fire. When 
 cold, it makes a handlome fide-board difh for a large 
 company. 
 
 Beef Steaks rolled. 
 
 TAKE fome beef-fteaks, and beat them with a cleaver 
 till they are tender; make fome forcemeat with a pound 
 of veal beat fine in a mortar, the flefli of a fowl, half a 
 pound of cold ham, or gammon of bacon, fat and lean; 
 the kidney fit of a loin of veal, and a fweetbread, all cut 
 very fine; fome truffles and morels ftewed, and then cut 
 fmall, two fflalots, fome parfley, a little thyme, fome le¬ 
 mon-peel, the yolks of four eggs, a nutmeg grated, and 
 half a pint of'cream. Mix all thefe together, and ftir 
 them over a flow fire for ten minutes. Put them upon 
 the ftcaks, and roll them up j then fkewer them tight, 
 put them into the frying-pan, and fry them of a nice 
 brown. Then take them from the fat, and put them into 
 a ftew-pan, with a pint of good drawn gravy, a fpoonful 
 of red wine, two of catchup, a few pickled mufhrooms, 
 and let them flew' for a quarter of an hour. Take up the 
 {leaks, cut them into two, and lay the cut fide uppermoft, 
 Garnifh with lemon. 
 
 Boeuf a la Vmegrette. 
 
 CUT a flice about three inches thick from a round of 
 beef, with very little fat. Stew it in water and a glafs 
 of white wine, feafoned with fair, pepper, cloves, a 
 bunch of fweet herbs, and a bay leaf. Let it boil till 
 the liquor is almoft contumed; and when it is cold, ferve 
 it up. 
 
 Beef Efcarlot. ■ ■ 
 
 THE proper piece of beef for this purpofe is the 
 brifket, which you muft manage as follows: 1 ake halt a 
 pound of coarfe fugar, two ounces of bay fait, and a 
 pound of common fait. Mix thefe well together, rub 
 the beef with it, put it into an earthen pan, and turn it, 
 every day. It may lie in this pickle a fortnight* then boil 
 
134 MADE DISHES. 
 
 it, and ferve it tip with favoys; but it eats much better 
 when cold, and cut into flices. 
 
 Tongue and Udder forced. 
 
 FIRST parboil them, then branch the tongue, and flick 
 it with cloves; and fill the udder with forcemeat made 
 with veal. Firft wafh the infide with the yolk of an egg, 
 then put in the forcemeat, tie the ends dole,and fpit them, 
 roaft them, and bafte them with butter. When they are 
 done, put good gravy into the difh, fweet fauce into a cup, 
 and ferve them up. 
 
 Tripe a la Kilkenny. 
 
 TAKE a piece of double tripe, and cut it into fquare 
 pieces; peel and wafh ten large onions, cut eac into two, 
 and put them on to boil in water till they are tender. 
 Then put in your tripe, and boil it ten minutes. Pour 
 off almoft all your liquor, fhake a little flour into it, and 
 put in fome butter, with a little fait and muftard. Shake 
 all over the fire till the butter is melted, then put it into 
 your difh, and fend it to table, as hot as poflible. Garnifh 
 with lemon or barbetries.- 1 —This difh is greatly admired 
 in Ireland. 
 
 Harrico of Mutton. 
 
 CUT the belt end of a neck of mutton into chops, in 
 Angle ribs, flatten them, and fry them of a light brown. 
 Then put them into a large faucepan, with two quarts of 
 water, and a large carrot cut in Alices ; and when they 
 have ftewed a quarter of an hour, put in two turnips cut 
 in fquare pieces, the white part of a head of celery, two 
 cabbage lettuces fried, a few heads of afparagus, and fea- 
 fon all with a little chyan pepper. Boil all together till ten¬ 
 der, and put it into a tureen or foup difh, without any 
 thickening to the gravy. 
 
 A Bafque of Mutton. 
 
 TAKE the caul of a leg of veal, and put it into a 
 copper difh about the fize of a fmall punch bowl. Then 
 take the lean part of a leg of mutton that has been 1 ept 
 a week, and chop it exceeding fmall; take half its weight 
 in beef marrow, the crumb of a penny loaf, the rind of 
 
MEAT, &c. 135 
 
 half a lemon grated, half a pint of red wine, two anchovies, 
 and the yolks of four eggs. Mix all together with the mut¬ 
 ton, as you would faufage-meat, and lay it in the caul in 
 the middle of the difh. Faften the caul, bake it in a quick 
 oven, and when it comes out, lay your diih upfide down, 
 and turn the whole out. Pour over it brown gravy, 
 and ferve it to table with fweet fauce. Garnifh with 
 pickles. 
 
 Shoulder of Mutton furprifed. 
 
 HALF boil a fhoulder of mutton, and then put it into 
 a ftew-pan, with two quarts of veal gravy, four ounces of 
 rice, a litt^ beaten mace, and a tea-fpoonfyl of mufhroom 
 powder. Stew it an hour, or till the rice is enough, and 
 then take up vour mutton and keep it hot. Put to the 
 rice half a pint of cream, and a piece of butter rolled in 
 flour: then fhake it well, and boil it a few minutes. Lay 
 your mutton on the difh, and pour your gravy over it, 
 Garnifh with pickles or barberries. 
 
 To drefs the Umbles of Deer . 
 
 TAKE the kidney of a deer, with the fat of the heart; 
 feafon them with a little pepper, fait, and nutmeg. Firfl 
 fry, and then flew them in fome good gravy till they are 
 tender. Squeeze in a little lemon; ta^e the fkirts, and 
 fluff them with a forcemeat made with the fat of the 
 venifon, fome fat of bacon, grated bread, pepper, mace, 
 Page, and onion chopped very fmall. Mix it with the 
 yolk of an egg. When the fkirts are fluffed with this, 
 tie them to the fpit to roaft; but firfl ftrew over them 
 Lome thyme and lemon-peel. When they are done, lay 
 the fkirts in the middle of the difh, and then fricafee round 
 lit. 
 
 Mutton kebobbed. 
 
 CUT a loin of mutton into four pieces, then take off 
 the fkin, and rub them with the yolk of an egg, and flrew 
 over them a few crumbs of bread and a little parfley 
 Ifhred fine. Spit and roaft them, and keep bailing them 
 all the time with frefh butter, in order to make the froth 
 rife. When they are properly done, put a little brown 
 
 gravy 
 
i S 6 MADE DISHES. 
 
 gravy under them, and fend them to table. Garnifh with 
 pickles. 
 
 Leg of Mutton a la haut gout . 
 
 TAKE a fine leg of mutton that has hung a fortnight 
 fif the weather will permit) and fluff every part of it with 
 feme cloves of garlic, rub it with pepper and Fait, and then 
 roafl it. When it is properly done, fend it up, with fome 
 good gravy, and red wine in the difh. 
 
 Leg of Mutton roafled with Offers. 
 
 TAKE a fine leg of mutton that has hung two or three 
 days, fluff every part of it with oyflers, roaft it, and when 
 done, pour fome good gravy into the difh, and garnifh 
 with horfe-radifh.—If you prefer cockles, you muft pro¬ 
 ceed in the fame manner. 
 
 Shoulder of Mutton en Epigram. 
 
 ROAST a fhoulder of mutton till it is nearly enough, 
 then carefully take off the fkin about the chicknefs of a 
 crown-piece, and alfo the fhank-bone at the end. Seafon 
 both the fkin and fhank-bone with pepper, fait, a little 
 lemon-peel cut fmall, and a few fweet-herbs, and crumbs 
 of bread. Lay this on the gridiron till it is of a fine brown; 
 and in the mean time, take the reft of the meat, and cut it 
 like a hath, in pieces about the bignefs of a fbilling. Save 
 the gravy and put to it, with a few fpoonsful of flrong 
 gravy, a little nutmeg, half an onion cut fine, a fmall 
 bundle of herbs, a little pepper and fait, fome girkins cut 
 very fmall, a few mufhrooms, two or three truffles cut 
 fmall, two fpoonsful'of wine, and a little flour dredged into 
 it. Let all thefc flew together very flowly for five or fix 
 minutes, but be careful it does not boil. Take out the 
 fweet herbs, lay the hafh in the difh, and the broiled upon 
 it. ‘ Garnifh with pickles. 
 
 Sheeps Rumps and Kidnies. 
 
 BOIL fix fbeeps rumps in veal gravy; then lard your 
 kidnies with bacon, and fet them before the fire in a 
 tin oven. As foon as the rumps become tender, rub them 
 over with the yolk of an egg, a little grated nutmeg, and 
 fome chyan pepper. Skim the fat fiom the gravy, and 
 
M E A TV 237 
 
 put the gravy in a flew-pan, with three ounces of boiied 
 rice, a fpoonful of good cream, and a little catchup and 
 mufhroom powder. Thicken it with flour and butter, and 
 give it a gentle bofl. Fry your rumps till they are of a light 
 brown; and when you difh them up, lay them round on 
 the rice, fo that the fmall ends may meet in the middle; 
 lay a kidney between every rump, and garnilh with bar¬ 
 berries and red cabbage. This makes a pretty fide, or 
 corner difh. 
 
 Mutton Rumps a-la-braifc. 
 
 BOIL fix mutton rumps for fifteen minutes in water; 
 then take them out, and cut them into two, and pm them 
 into a ftew-pan, with half a pint of good gravy, a gill of 
 white wine, an onion ftuck with cloves, and a little fait 
 and chyan pepper. Cover them clofe, and flew them till 
 they are tender. Take them and the onion out, and 
 thicken the gravy with a little butter rolled in flour, a 
 fpoonful of browning, and the juice of half a lemon. 
 Boil it up till it is fmooth, but not too thick. Then put 
 in your rumps, give them a (bake or two, and difh them 
 up hot. Garnilh with horfe-radifh and beet-root. For 
 variety, you may leave the rumps whole, and lard fix 
 kidnies on one (ide, and do them the fame as the rumps, 
 only not boil them, and put the rumps in the middle of 
 the difh, and kidnies round them, with the lauce over 
 all. 
 
 Mutton Chops in difguife. 
 
 RUB the chops over with pepper, fait, nutmeg, and a 
 little parfley. Roll each in half a Iheet of white paper, vveij 
 buttered withinflde, and clofe the two ends. Boil fome 
 hog’s-lard, or beef dripping, in a ftew-pan, and put the 
 fteaks into it. Fry them of a fine brown, then take 
 them out, and let the fat thoroughly drain from them. 
 Lay them in your difh, and ferve them up with good 
 gravy in a lauceboat. Garnifh with horfe-radifh and fried 
 parfley. 
 
 A Shoulder of Mutton called Hen and Chickens . 
 
 HALF roaft a fhoulder, then take it up, and cut off 
 the blade at the firft joint, and both the flaps, to make 
 IV. S the 
 
138 MADE DISHES. 
 
 the blade round fcore the blade round in diamonds,throw 
 a little pepper and fait over it, and let it in a tin oven to 
 broil. Cut the flaps and meat off the (hank, in thin flices, 
 and put the gravy that came out of the mutton into a 
 ftew-pan, with a little good gravy, two fpoonsful of wal¬ 
 nut catchup, one of browning, a little chyan pepper, and 
 one or two flnalots. When your meat is tender, thicken 
 it with flour and butter, put it into the dilh with the 
 gravy, and lay the blade on the top. Garnifh with green 
 pickles. 
 
 Oxford John. 
 
 CUT fome collops from a leg of mutton as thin as you 
 can, and take out all the fat finews. Seafon them with fait, 
 pepper, and mace, and ftrew over them a little fhred par- 
 fley, thyme, and two or three fhalots. Put a good lump 
 of butter into a flew-pan, and when it is hot, put in your 
 collops. Keep ftirring them with a wooden fpoon till 
 they are three parts done, and then add half a pint of gravy, 
 a little lemon-juice, and thicken it with flour and butter. 
 Let them fimmer four or five minutes, and they will be 
 enough. Put them into your difn with the gravy, and 
 throw fried pieces of bread, cut in dices, over and round 
 them. Garnifn with pickles. 
 
 A Quarter oj Lamb forced. 
 
 TAKE a lame leg of lamb, cut a long flit on the back 
 fide, and taice out the meat; but be careful you do not 
 deface the other fide. Then chop the meat finall with 
 marrow, half a pound of beef-fuet, fome oyfiers, an an¬ 
 chovy walked, an onion, fome fweet-herbs, a little lemon- 
 peel, and fome beaten mace and nutmeg. Beat all thefe 
 together in a mortar, fluff up the leg in the fhape it was 
 before, few it up, and rub it all over with the yolks of 
 eggs beaten ; fpic it, flour it all over, lay it to the fire, 
 and bade it with butter. An hour will roafl it. In the 
 mean time, cut the loin into (leaks, feafon them with 
 pepper, fait, and nutmeg, lemon-peel cut fine, and a few 
 herbs. Fry them in frelh butter of a fine brown, then 
 pour out all the butter, put in a quarter of a pint of white 
 wine, fhake it about, and then add half a pint of flrong 
 ; gravy 
 
MEAT.' 139 
 
 gravy, wherein good fpice has been boiled, a quarter of 
 a pint of oyfters, and the liquor, fome muihroorns, and a 
 fpoonfhl of the pickle, a piece of butter rolled in flour,, 
 and the yolk of an egg beat fine; ftir all thefe together 
 till thick, then lay your leg of lamb in the difh, and the 
 Join round it. Pour the fauce over them, and garnilh 
 with lemon. 
 
 Lamb's Bits. 
 
 SKIN the flones, and fplit them: then lay them on a 
 dry cloth with rhe fweetbreads and the liver, and dredge 
 them well with flour. Fry them in lard or butter till they 
 are of a light brown, and then lay them in a fieve to drain. 
 Fry a good quantity of parfley, lay your bits on the difh, 
 the parfley in lumps over them, and pour round them 
 melted butter. 
 
 Lamb Chops en Caforole. 
 
 HAVING cut a loin of lamb into chops, put yolks of 
 eggs on both lides, and ftrew bread-crumbs over them, 
 with a little cloves and mace, pepper, and fait mixed; 
 frv them’of a nice light brown, and put them round in a 
 difh, as dole as you can5 leave a hole in the middle to put 
 the following fauce in : all forts of fweet-herbs and parfley 
 chopped fine, and ftewed a little in fome good thick gravy. 
 Garnilh with fried parfley. 
 
 Barbacued Pig. 
 
 PREPARE a pig about ten w r eeks old as for roafl- 
 ing. Make a forcemeat of two anchovies, fix fage leaves, 
 and the liver of the pig, all chopped very (mail 5 then 
 put them into a mortar, with the crumb of half a penny 
 loaf, four ounces of butter, half a tea-fpoonful of chyan 
 pepper, and half a pint of red wine. Beat them all to¬ 
 gether to a pafte, put it in the pig’s belly, and few it up. 
 Lay your pig down at a good diftance before a large 
 brifk fire, finge it well, put into your dripping-pan three 
 bottles of red wine, and bade it well with this all the time 
 it is roafting. When it is half done, put under the pig 
 two penny loaves, and if you find your wine too much 
 reduced, add more. When your pig is near enough, 
 take the loaves and fauce out of your dripping-pan, and 
 
 S a pitf 
 
iio MADE DISHES. 
 
 put to the fauce one anchovy chopped frnall, a bundle of 
 fiweet herbs, and half a lemon. Boil it a few minutes, then 
 draw your pig, put a fmall lemon or apple in the pig’g 
 mouth, and a leaf on each fide. Strain your fauCe, anc pour 
 it on boiling hot. Send' it up whole to table, and garnilh 
 with barberries and diced lemon. 
 
 A Pig au Pere Duillet , 
 
 CUT off the head, and divide the body into quarters $ 
 lard them with bacon, and feafon them well with fait, 
 pepper, nutmeg, cloves, and mace. Put a layer of fat 
 bacon at the bottom of a kettle, lay the head in the mid¬ 
 dle, and the quarters round it. Then put in a bay leaf, an 
 onion Hired, a lemon, with fome carrots, parfley, and the 
 liver, and cover it again with bacon.. Put in a quart of 
 broth, flew it for an hour, and then take it up. Put your 
 pig into a ftew-pan, pour in a bottle of white wine, cover 
 it clofe, and let it flew very gently an hour. In the mean 
 time, while it is Hewing in the wine, take the firft gravy 
 it was Hewed in, fkim off the fat, and Hrain it. Then 
 take a fweet-bread cut into five or fix flices, fome truffles, 
 morels,- and mufhrooms, and Hew all together till they 
 are enough. ' Thicken it with the yolks of two eggs, of 
 a piece of butter rolled in flour; and when your pig is 
 enough, take it out, and lay it in your difh. Put the 
 wine it was Hewed in to the fauce, then pour it all over the 
 pig, and garnifli with lemon. If it is to be ferved up 
 cold, let it Hand till it is fo, then drain it well, and wipe 
 it, that it may look white, and lay it in a difh, with the 
 head in the middle, and the quarters round it. Throw fome 
 green parfley over all. Either of the quarters feparately 
 make a pretty difh. 
 
 A Pig Matelote. 
 
 HAVING taken out the entiails, and fealded your 
 pig, cut off the head and pettitoes ; then cut the body 
 into four quarters, and put them, with the head and toes, 
 into cold water. Cover the bottom of a flewpan with 
 Hices of bacon, and place the quarters over them, with 
 the pettitoes, and the head cut in two. Seafon the whole 
 with pepper and fait, a bay leaf, a little thyme, an onion, 
 and add a bottle of white wine. Then lay on more flices 
 
MEAT, &c, 141 
 
 of bacon, put over it a quart of water, and let it boil. 
 Skin and gut two large eels, and cut them in pieces about 
 five or fix inches long. When your pig is half done, put 
 in your eels ; then boil a dozen of large cray-fifh, cut off 
 the claws, and take off the ihells of the tails. When 
 your pig and eels are enough, lay firft your pig in the difh, 
 and your pettitoes round it; but do not put in the head, 
 as that will make a pretty cold difh. Then lay your eels 
 and cray-fifh over them, and take the liquor they were 
 ftewed in, fkim off the fat, and add to it half a pint of 
 ftrong gravy, thickened with a little piece of burnt butter. 
 Pour this over it, and garnifh with lemon and cray-fifh. 
 Fry the brains, and lay them round, and all over the difh. 
 
 •—At grand entertainments this will do for a firft comic 
 Qr remove. 
 
 SECT. II. 
 
 MADE DISHES of POULTRY, & c . 
 
 Turkey a-la-daub. 
 
 BONE your turkey, but let it be fo carefully done, as 
 not to fpoil the look of it, and then fluff it with the fol¬ 
 lowing forcemeat: Chop fome oyfters very fine, and mix 
 them with fome crumbs of bread, pepper, fait, fhalots, 
 and very little thyme, parfley, and butter.-—Having filled 
 your turkey with this, few it up, tie it in a cloth, and boil 
 it white, but be careful not to boil it too much. Serve 
 it up with good oyfter fauce. Or you may make a rich 
 gravy of the bones, with a piece of veal, mutton, and 
 bacon, feafon with fait, pepper, lhalots, and a little mace. 
 Strain it off through a fieve; and having before half- 
 boiled your turkey, flew it in this gravy juft half an hour. 
 Having well fkimmed the gravy, difh up your turkey in 
 jt, after you have thickened it with a few mulhrooms 
 ftewed white, or ftewed palates, forcerffeat-balls, fweet- 
 breads, or fried oyfters, and pieces of lemon. Difh it with 
 the bread upwards. You may add a few morels and truffles 
 to your fauce. 
 
 • ' „ fur key 
 
142 
 
 MADE DISHES, 
 
 Turkey in a Hurry. 
 
 TRUSS a turkey with the legs inward, and flatten 
 it as much as you can: then put it into a ftew-pan, with 
 melted lard, chopped parfley, lhalots, mufbrooms, and a 
 little garlick; give it a few turns on the fire, and add the 
 juice of half a lemon to keep it white. Then put it 
 into another ftew-pan, with flices of veal, one Rice of ham, 
 the melted lard, and every thing as ufed before j adding 
 whole pepper and fait; cover it over with dices of lard, 
 and fet it about half an hour over a flow fire;—then add 
 a glafs of white wine and a little broth, and finifh the 
 brazing; fkim and fife the fiuce, add a little cullis to 
 make it rich, reduce it to a good confiftence, put the tur¬ 
 key into your difh, and pour the fauce over it. Garnifh 
 with lemon. 
 
 Fowls a-la-Braze. 
 
 TRUSS your fowl as for boiling, wgh the legs in the 
 body; then layover it a layer of fat bacon cut in thin 
 flices, wrap it round in beet-leaves, then in a caul of veal, 
 and put it into a large faucepan with three pints of water, 
 a glafs of Madeira wine, a bunch of fweet-herbs, two or 
 three blades of mace, and half a lemon ; ftew it till it is 
 quite tender, then take it up and fkim off the fat; make 
 your gravy pretty thick with flour and butter, drain it 
 through a hair fieve, and put to it a pint of ovfters and <L 
 tea-cupful of thick cream; keep fhaking your pan over 
 the fire, and when it has fimmered a fhort time, ferve up 
 yOur fowl with the bacon, beet leaves, arid caul on, and 
 pour your fauce hot upon it. Garnifh with barberries and 
 red beet-root. 
 
 Fowls forced. 
 
 TAKE a large fowl, pick it clean; draw it, cut it 
 down the back; arid take the fkin off whole; cut the 
 fiefh from the bones, and chop it with half a pint of 
 oyftcrs, one ounce of beef-marrow, and a little pepper 
 and fait. Mix it up with cream; then lay the meat on 
 the bones, draw the fkin over it, and few it up the back. 
 Cut large thin Aides of bacon, lay them on the breaft of 
 
 your 
 
.MEAT. 143 
 
 vour fowl, and tie them on with packthread*in diamonds. 
 It will take an hour reading by a moderate fire. Make 
 a good brown gravy lance, pour it into your difh, take 
 the bacon old', lay in your fowl, and ferve it up. Garnifh 
 with pickles, mufhrooms, or oyders.—It is proper for a 
 fide-difh at dinner, or top-difh for fupper. 
 
 Fowls marinaded. 
 
 RAISE the fit in from the bread-bone of a large fowl 
 with your finger ; then take a veal Ivveetbread and cut it 
 fmall, a few oyders, a few mufhrooms, an anchovy, fome 
 pepper, a little nutmeg, fome lemon-peel, and a little 
 thyme; chop all together fmall, and mix it with the ycllc 
 of an egg, ftuff it in between the fkin and the flefh, but 
 take great care you do not break the fkin; and then put 
 what oyders you pleafe in the body of the fowl. Paper 
 the bread, and road it. Make good gravy, and garnidi 
 with lemon. You may add a few mufhrooms to the 
 fauce. 
 
 Chickens chiringrat.e. 
 
 FLATTEN the bread-bones of your chickens with 
 a rolling pin, but be careful you do not break the (kin. 
 Strew fome flour over them, then fry them in butter of a 
 fine light brown, and drain all the fat out of the pan, but 
 leave the chickens in. Lay a pound of gravy-beef, with 
 the fame quantity of veal cut into thin dices, over your 
 chickens, together with a little mace, two or three cloves, 
 fome whole pepper, an onion, a fmall bunch of fweet- 
 herbs, and a piece of carrot. Then pour in a quart oi boil¬ 
 ing water, cover it clpfe, and let it dew a quarter of an hour. 
 Then take out the chickens, and keep them hot: let tiic 
 gravy boil till it is quite rich and good; then drain it off, 
 and put it into your pan again, with two fpoonsful or red 
 wine, and a few mufhrooms. Put in your chickens to 
 heat, then take them up, lay them in your diih, and pour 
 your fauce over them. Garnifh with lemon, and a few 
 dices of cold ham broiled. 
 
 Chickens a-la-hrafe. 
 
 TAKE a couple of fine chickens, lard them, and 
 feafon them with pepper, fait, and mace; then put a 
 
 ■ layer 
 
144 MADE DISHES. 
 
 layer of* veal in the bottom of a deep dew-pan* with a 
 dice or two of bacon, an onio.n cut in pieces, a piece of 
 carrot, and a layer of beef; then put in the chickens with 
 the breads downwards, and a bundle of fweet-herbs ; after 
 that a layer of beef, and put in a quart of broth or water; 
 cover it clofe, and let it flew very gently for an hour. In 
 the mean time get ready a ragoo made thus: Take two 
 veal fweetbreads, cut them fmall, and put them into a 
 faucepan, with a very little broth or water, a few cocks¬ 
 combs, truffles, and morels, cut fmall, with an ox-palate. 
 Stew them all together, and when your chickens are done, 
 take them up, and keep them hot; then drain the liquor 
 they were dewed in, fkim off the fat, and pour it into 
 your ragoo ; add a glafs of red wine, a fpoonful of catch¬ 
 up, and a few mu lb rooms; then boil all together with a 
 few artichoke bottoms cut in four, and afparagus tops. If 
 your iauce is not thick enough, put in a piece of butter 
 rolled in dour; and when properly done, lay your chick¬ 
 ens in the difh, and pour the ragoo over them. Garnilh 
 with lemon. 
 
 Chickens infavory Jelly, 
 
 TAKE two chickens, and road them. Boil dome 
 calf’s feet to a ftrong jelly; then take out the feet, and 
 Ikim off the fat; beat up the whites of three eggs, and 
 mix them with half a pint of white wine vinegar, the 
 juice of three lemons, a blade or two of mace, a few 
 pepper-corns, and a little fait. Put them to your jelly; 
 and when it has boiled five or fix minutes, drain it fe¬ 
 vers! times through a jelly-bag till it is very clear. Then 
 put a little in the bottom of a bowl large enough to hold 
 your chickens, and when they are cold, and the jelly fet, 
 lay them in with their breads down. Then fill your 
 bowl quite full with the reft of your jelly, which you' 
 muft take care to keep from fetting, fo that when you 
 pour it into your bowl it will not break. Let it dand 
 all night; and the next day put your bafon into warm 
 water, pretty near the top. As foon as you find it loofe 
 in the bafon, lay your difh over it, and turn it out 
 whole. 
 
 Chickens 
 
POULTRY, 
 
 145 
 
 Chickens and Tongues. 
 
 BOIL fix (mail chickens very white; then take fix 
 Logs tongues boiled and peeled, a cauliflower boiled whole 
 in milk and water, and a good deal of fpinach boiled 
 green. Then lay your cauliflower in the middle, thfe 
 chickens clofe all round, and the tongues round them with 
 the roots outwards, and the fpinach in little heaps between 
 the tongues. Garnifh with fmall pieces of bacon toafted, 
 and lay a piece on each of the tongues. This is a good dilh 
 for a large company. 
 
 Pullets a la Sainte Menehout. 
 
 HAVING trufled the legs in the body, flit them down 
 the back, fpread them open on a table, take out the thigh 
 bones, and beat them with a rolling-pin. Seafon them wich 
 pepper, fait, mace, nutmeg, and fw.ee t herb's. Then take 
 a pound and a half of veal, cut it into thin dices, and lay 
 it in a ftew-pan. Cover it clofe, and let it over a flow fire, 
 and when it begins to flick to the pan, ftir in a little flour, 
 fhake it about till it is a little brown, and then pour in as 
 much broth as will flew the fowls. Stir them together, 
 and put in a little whole pepper, an onion, and a flice of 
 bacon or ham. Then lay in your fowls, cover them 
 clofe, and when they have flewed half an hour, take them 
 out, lay them on the gridiron to brown on the infide, and 
 then lay them before the fire to do on the outfide. Strew 
 over them the yolk Of an egg, and feme crumbs of bread, 
 and bafte them with a little butter. Let them be of a fine 
 brown, and boil the gravy till there is about enough for 
 fauce j then ftrain it, and put into it a few muftiroofns, 
 with a fmall piece of butter rolled in flour. Lay the pub 
 lees in the difh, pour the fauce over them, and garniLh 
 with lemon. 
 
 Ducks a-la-Braze. 
 
 HAVING drefled and finged your ducks, lard them 
 quite through with bacon rolled in Hired parfley, thyme, 
 onions, beaten mace, cloves, pepper, and fait. Put in 
 the bottom of a ftew-pan a few flices of fat bacon, the 
 fame of ham or gammon of bacon, two or three flices 
 IV. T of 
 
146 MADE DISHES. 
 
 of veal or beef: la ) 7 your ducks in with the breads down, 
 and cover them with dices, the fame as put under them j 
 cut in a carrot or two, a turnip, one onion, a head of ce¬ 
 lery, a blade of mace, four or five cloves, and a little 
 whole pepper. Cover them clofe down, and let them 
 fimmer a little over a gentle fire till the breads are a light 
 brown ; then put in fome broth or water, cover them as 
 clofe dow 7 n again as you can dew them gently two or 
 three hours till enough. Then take fome parlley, an 
 onion or dialot, two anchovies, and a few gerkins or ca¬ 
 pers ; chop them all very fine, put them into a dew-pan 
 with part of the liquor from the ducks, a little browning, 
 and the juice cf half a lemon; boil it up, and cut the 
 ends of the bacon even with the breads of your ducks, 
 lay them on your difh, pour the fauce hot upon them, and 
 ferve them up. 
 
 Duels a-la-mode. 
 
 TAKE a couple of fine ducks, cut them into quarters, 
 and fry them in butter till they are a light brown. Then 
 pour out all the fat, dud a little flour over them, and put 
 in half a pint of good gravy, a quarter of. a pint of red 
 wine, an anchovy, two fhalots, and a bundle of fweet- 
 herbs: cover them clofe, and let them dew a quarter 
 of an hour. Take out the herbs, fkim off the fat, and 
 thicken your fauce with a bit of butter rolled in flour. 
 Put your ducks into the difh, drain your fauce over 
 them, and fend them to table. Garnifh with lemon or 
 barberries. 
 
 Ducks a-la-Francoifc. 
 
 PUT two dozen of roaded chefnuts peeled into a 
 pint of rich gravy, with a few leaves of dry me, two fmall 
 onions, a little whole pepper, and a bit of ginger. Take a 
 fine tame duck, lard it, and half road it, then put it into 
 the gravy, let it dew ten minutes, and add a quarter of a 
 pint of red wine. When the duck is enough take it out, 
 boil up the gravy to a proper thicknefs, fkim it very clean 
 from fat, lay the duck in the difh, and pour the fauce over 
 it. Garnilh with lemon. 
 
 A Goofc 
 
POULTRY. 
 
 A Goofs a-la-mode. 
 
 PICK a large fine goofe clean, fkin and bone * it 
 nicely, and take off the fat. Then take a dried tongue, 
 and boil and peel it. Take a fowl, and treat it in the 
 fame manner as the goofe ; fealbn it with pepper, fait, and 
 beaten mace, and roll it round the tongue. Seafon the 
 goofe in the fame manner, and put both tongue and fowl 
 into the goofe. Put it into a lictle pot that will juft hold 
 it, with two quarts of beef gravy, a bundle of fweet-herbs, 
 and an onion. Put fome flices of ham, or good bacon, 
 between the fowl and goofe; then cover it dole, and ftew 
 it over a fire for an hour very (lowly. Then take up your 
 goofe, and (kirn off all fhe fat; (train it, and put in a glafs 
 of red wine, two fpoonsful of catchup, a veal fweetbread 
 cut fmall, fome truffles, mufhrooms, and morels, a piece 
 of butter rolled in flour, and, if wanted, fome pepper 
 and fait. Put the goofe in again, cover it dole, and let 
 it ftew half an hour longer. Then take it up, pour the 
 ragoo over it, and garnilh with lemon. You muft re¬ 
 member to fave the bones of the goofe and fowl, and 
 put them into the gravy when it is firft fee on. It 
 vyill be an improvement if you roll fome beef marrow 
 between the tongue and the fowl, and between the fowl 
 and the goofe, as it will make them mellow, and eat the 
 finer. 
 
 A Goofe marinaded. 
 
 BONE your goofe, and fluff it with forcemeat made 
 thus: take ten or twelve fage leaves, two large onions, 
 and two or three large fharp apples; chop them very 
 fine, and mix with them the crumb of a penny loaf, 
 four ounces of beef marrow, one glafs of red wine, half 
 a nutmeg grated, pepper, fait, and a little lemon-peel 
 Hired fmall, and the yolks of four eggs. When you have 
 
 T 2 fluffed 
 
 * It may not be amifs to inform the cook, that the bed me¬ 
 thod of boning a goofe, or fowls of any fort, is, to begin at 
 the bread, and take out all the bones without cutting the back; 
 for without this method, when it is fewed up, and you come to 
 dew it, it generally burfts in the back, whereby the fhape of it 
 is fpoiled. 
 
34 8 MADE DISHES. 
 
 fluffed your goofe with this, few it up, fry it of a light 
 brown, and then put it into a deep (lew-pan, with two 
 quarts of good gravy. Cover it clofe, and let it flew two 
 hours; then take it out, put it into a difh, and keep it 
 warm. Skim the fat clean off from the gravy, and put into 
 it a large fpo.onful of lemon-pickle, one of browning, and 
 one of red wine; an anchovy (lired fine, a little beaten 
 mace, with pepper and fait to your palate. Thicken it 
 with flour and butter, difh up. your goofe, drain the gravy 
 over it, and fend it to table. 
 
 Pigeons Compote. 
 
 TRUSS fix young pigeons in the fame manner as 
 for boiling, and make a forcemeat for them thus: 
 Grate the crumb of half a penny loaf, and ferape a quar¬ 
 ter of a pound of fat bacon, which will anfwer the purpofe 
 better than fuet. Chop a little parfiey and thyme, two 
 fhalots, or an onion, fome lemon-peel, and a little nut¬ 
 meg grated; feafon them with pepper and fait, and 
 mix them up with eggs. Put this forcemeat into the 
 craws of the pigeons, lard them down the bread, and 
 fry them brown. Then put them into a dew-pan, with 
 fome good brown gravy, and when they have dewed 
 three quarters of an hour, thicken it with a piece of 
 butter rolled in flour. When you ferve them up, drain 
 your gravy over them, and lay forcemeat balls round 
 them. 
 
 Pigeons trailfmogrified. 
 
 WHEN you have feafoned your pigeons properly with 
 pepper and fait, take a large piece of butter, make a puff- 
 pade, and roll each pigeon In a piece of it. Tie them in a 
 cloth, fo that the pade does not break, and boil them in a 
 good deal of water. When they have boiled an hour and 
 an half, untie them, but with particular caution that they 
 do. not break. Pour a little good gravy into your did), 
 lay the pigeons in it, and ferve them up. They will eat 
 exceeding nice, and yield a deal of fauce, when cut up, of 
 an agreeable relilb. 
 
 French Pupton of Pigeons. 
 
 PUT favory foremeat, rolled out like pade, into 
 a butter-didi. Then put a layer of very thin dices ot 
 
 bacon.. 
 
POULTRY. 149 
 
 bacon* fquab pigeons, fliced fweetbread, afparagus tops, 
 mufhrooms, cocks-combs, a palate boiled tender, and cut 
 into pieces, and the yolks of four eggs boiled hard. Make 
 another forcemeat and lay it over the whole like a pie-cruft. 
 Then bake it, and when it is enough, turn it into a difh, and 
 pour in fome good rich gravy. 
 
 Pigeons a-la-braze. 
 
 PICK, draw, and trufs fome large pigeons, then take a 
 ftew-pan, and lay at the bottom fome flices of bacon, veal, 
 and onions; feafon the pigeons with pepper, fait, fome 
 fpice beat fine, and fweet- herbs. Put them into the ftew- 
 pan, and lay upon them fome more flices of veal and 
 bacon j let them (lew very gently over a ftove, and cover 
 them down very clofe. When they are ftewed, make a 
 ragoo with veal fweetbreads, truffles, morels, champig¬ 
 nons ; the fweetbreads mult be blanched, and put into a 
 ftew-pan, with a ladle full of gravy, a little cullis, the truf¬ 
 fles, morels, &c. Let them all ftew together with the pi¬ 
 geons. When they are enough, put them into a difh, and 
 pour the ragoo over them. 
 
 Pigeons au Poife. 
 
 CUT off the feet of your pigeons, and fluff them with 
 forcemeat in the fhape of a pear ; roll them in the yolk 
 of an egg, and then in crumbs of bread. Put them into a 
 difh well buttered, but do not let them touch each other, 
 and fend them to the oven. When they are enough, lay 
 them in a difh, and pour in good gravy, thickened with 
 the yolk of an egg, or butter rolled in flour; but do not 
 pour your gravy over the pigeons. Garnifh with le¬ 
 mon.—This is a very genteel difh, and may be improved 
 by the following variation : Lay one pigeon in the middle, 
 the reft round, and ftewed fpinach between, with poached 
 eggs on the fpinach. Garnifh with notched lemon and 
 orange cut into quarters, and have melted butter in 
 boats. . 
 
 Pigeons a-la-daub. 
 
 PUT a layer of bacon in a large fauce-pan, then a 
 layer of veal, a layer of coarfe beef, and another little 
 | layer of veal, about a pound of beef, and a pound of 
 veal, cut very thin 5 a piece of carFot, a bundle of fweet- 
 
 herbs. 
 
i 5 o MADE DISHES. 
 
 herbs, an onion, fome black and white pepper, a blade or 
 two of mace, and four or five cloves. Cover the Sauce¬ 
 pan clofe, fet it over a flow fire, and draw it till it is 
 brown, to make the gravy of a fine light brown. Then 
 put a quart of boiling water, and let it flew till the gravy 
 is quite rich and good. Strain it off, and fkim off all the 
 fat. In the mean time, fluff the bellies of the pigeons 
 with force-meat, made thus: Take a pound of veal, and 
 a pound of beef fuet, and beat both fine in a mortar ; an 
 equal quantity of crumbs of bread, fome pepper, fait, 
 nutmeg, beaten mace, a little lemon-peel cut fmall, fome 
 parfley cut fmall, and a very little thyme ftripped. Mix all 
 together with the yolks of two eggs, fill the pigeons with 
 this, and flat the breafts down. Flour them, and fry 
 them in frefh butter a little brown. Then pour the fat 
 dean out of the pan, and put the gravy to the pigeons.. 
 Cover them clofe, and let them flew a quarter of an hour, 
 or till they are quite enough. Then take them up, lay 
 them in a difh, and pour in your fauce. On each pigeon 
 lay a bay leaf, and on each leaf a flice of bacon. Garnifh 
 with a lemon notched. 
 
 Pigeons Surtout. 
 
 HAVING forced your pigeons, lay a flice of bacon on 
 the bread, and a flice of veal beat with the back of a knife, 
 and feafoned with mace, pepper, and fait. Tie it on with 
 a piece of thin packthread, and two or three fmall fkewers. 
 Put them on a fine bird-fpit, roaft them, and bade them 
 with a piece of butter then rub over them the yolk of 
 an egg, on which drew fome crufts of bread, a little nut¬ 
 meg, and fweet-herbs. When they are done, lay them 
 in your difh, and have good gravy ready, with truffles, 
 morels, and mufhrooms, to pour into your difh. Garnifh 
 widi lemon. 
 
 Pigeons a-la-SonJJel, 
 
 BONE four pigeons, and make a forcemeat as for 
 pigeons compote. Stuff - them, and put them into a 
 flew-pan with a pint of veal gravy. Stew them half an 
 hour very gently, and then take them out. In the mean 
 time make a veal forcemeat, and wrap it all round them. 
 Rub it over with the yolk of an egg, and fry them of a 
 
POULTRY. 151 
 
 nice brown in good dripping. Take the gravy they were 
 {tewed in, fkim off the fat, thicken with a little butter 
 rolled in flour, the yolk of an egg, and a gill of cream 
 beat up. Seafon it with pepper and fair, mix it all toge¬ 
 ther, and keep it (tirring one way till it is fmooth. Strain 
 it into your difh, and put the pigeons on. Garnifh with 
 plenty of fried parfley. 
 
 Pigeons in a Hole. 
 
 PICK, draw, and wain four young pigeons, {tick their 
 legs in their bellies as you do boiled pigeons, and feafon 
 them with pepper, fait, and beaten mace. Put into the 
 belly of each pigeon a lump of butter the fize of a wal¬ 
 nut. Lay your pigeons in a pie-difh, pour over them a 
 batter made of three eggs, two fpoonsful of flour, and half 
 a pint of good milk. Bake them in a moderate oven, 
 and ferve them to table in the fame difli. 
 
 Jugged Pigeons. 
 
 PLUCK and draw fix pigeons, wafh them clean, and 
 dry them with a cloth; feafon them with beaten mace, 
 white pepper, and fait. Put them into a jug with half a 
 pound of butter upon them. Stop up the jug clofe with 
 a cloth, that no fleam can set out; then fet it in a kettle 
 of boiling water, and let it boil an hour and a half. Then 
 take out your pigeons, put the gravy that is come from 
 them into a pan, and add to it a fpoonful of wine, one of 
 catchup, a flice of lemon, half an anchovy chopped, and a 
 bundle of fweet-herbs. Boil it a little, and then thicken 
 it with a piece of butter rolled in flour; lay your pigeons 
 in the dilb, and {train your gravy over them. Garnifh 
 with parfley and red cabbage.—This makes a very pretty 
 fide or corner-difh. 
 
 Partridges a-la-braze. 
 
 TAKE two brace of partridges, and trufs the legs 
 into the bodies; lard diem, and feafon with beaten mace, 
 pepper, and fait. Take a flew-pan, lay dices of bacon 
 at the bottom, then fiices of beef, and then dices of veal, 
 all cut thin, a piece of carrot, an onion cut final], a 
 bundle of fweet-herbs, and feme whole pepper. Put in 
 
 the 
 
152 made dishes, 
 
 the partridges with their breads downwards, lay fome thirj 
 dices of beef and veal over them, and fome parfley fhred 
 fine. Cover them, and let them ftew eight or ten rhinutes 
 over a flow fire; then give your pan a fhake, and pour 
 in a pint of boiling water. Cover it clofe, and let it (lew 
 half an hour over a little quicker fire; then take out your 
 birds, keep them hot, pour into the pan a pint of thin 
 gravy, let them boil till there is about half a pint, then 
 drain it off, and lkim off all the fat. In the mean time 
 have a veal fweetbread cut fmall, truffles, and morels* 
 cocks-combs, and fowls livers ftewed in a pint of good 
 gravy half an hour, fome artichoke-bottoms and afparagus- 
 tops, both blanched in warm water, and a few mufhrooms. 
 Then add the other gravy to this, and put in your par¬ 
 tridges to heat. If it is not thick enough, put in a piece 
 of butter rolled in flour. When thoroughly hot, put 
 your partridges into the difb, pour the fauce over them, 
 and ferve them to table. 
 
 Phedfants a-la-bvaze. 
 
 COVER the bottom of your ftew-pan with a layer of 
 beef, a layer of veal, a little piece of bacon, a piece of 
 carrot, an onion ftuck with cloves, a blade or two of 
 mace, a fpoonful of pepper, black and white, and a 
 bundle of lweet-herbs. Having done this, put in your 
 pheafant, and cover it with a layer of beef and a layer of 
 veal. Set it on the fire for five or fix minutes, and then 
 pour in two quarts of boiling gravy. Cover it clofe, and 
 let it ftew very gently an hour and a half. Then take up 
 your pheafant, and keep it hot; let the gravy boil tiil 
 it is reduced to about a pint, then ftrain it off, and put it 
 in again. Put in a veal fweetbread that has* been ftewed 
 with the pheafant, fome truffles and morels, livers of 
 fowls, artichoke bottoms, and (if you have them) 
 afparagus-tops. Let thefe fimmer in the gravy about 
 five or fix minutes, and then add two fpoonsful of 
 catchup, two of red wine, a fpoonful of browning, and a 
 little piece of butter rolled in flour. Snake all together, 
 then put in your pheafant, with a few mufhrooms, and 
 let them ftew about fiye or fix minutes more. Then 
 
 take 
 
GAME, &c. 153 
 
 take up your pheafant, pour the ragoo over it, and lay 
 forcemeat-balls round. Garnifh with lemon. 
 
 Snipes, or Woodcocks , in furtout. 
 
 TAKE fome forcemeat made of veal, as much beef- 
 fuet chopped and beat in a mortar, with an equal quantity 
 of crumbs of bread ; mix in a little beaten mace, pepper 
 and fait, fome parflcy, a few fweet-herbs, and the yolk of 
 an egg. Lay^ fome of this meat round the difn, and 
 then put in the fnipes, being firft drawn and h3lf-roafted. 
 Take care of the trail, chop ic, and fcatter it all over the 
 difh. Take fome good gravy, according to the bigneH 
 of your furtout, fome truffles and morels, a few mufh- 
 rooms, a fweetbread cut into pieces, and artichoke 
 bottoms cut fmall. Let all ftew together, fhake them, 
 and take the yolks of two or three eggs, beat them up ' 
 with a fpoonful or two of white wine, and ftir all toge¬ 
 ther one way. When it is thick, take it off, let it cool, 
 and pour it into the furtout. Put in the yolks of a few 
 hard eggs here and there, leafon with beaten mace, pep¬ 
 per and fait to your tafte; cover it with the forcemeat 
 all over, then rub on the yolks of eggs to colour it, 
 and fend it to the oven. Half an hour will do it fuf- 
 ficiently. 
 
 Snipes with Purjlain Leaves. 
 
 DRAW your fnipes, and make a forcemeat for the in- 
 fide, butpreferve your ropes for your fauce; fpit them acrofs 
 upon a lark-fpit, covered with bacon and paper, and roaft 
 them gently. For fauce, you muft take fome prime thick 
 leaves of purflain, blanch them well in water, put them 
 into a ladle of cullis and gravy, a bit of fhalot, pepper, fait, 
 nutmeg, and parfley, and ftew all together for half an hour 
 gently. Have the ropes ready blanched and put in. Dilli 
 
 your fnipes upon thin dices of bread fried, fqueeze the 
 juice of an orange into your fauce, and ferve them up. 
 
 Larks a-la-Francoife, 
 
 TRUSS your larks with the legs acrofs, and put a 
 fage-leaf over their breafts. Put them on a long thin . 
 fkewer; and between every lark put a bit of thin bacon. 
 IV. U Than 
 
154 MADE DISHES. 
 
 Then tie the fkewer to a fpit, and road them before a 
 clear brifk fire; bade them with butter, and drew over 
 them fome crumbs of bread mixed with flour. Fry 
 fome crumbs of bread of a fine brown in butter. Lay 
 the larks round the dilh, and the bread-crumbs in the 
 middle. 
 
 Florendinc Hares. 
 
 LET your hare be a full-grown one, and let it hang 
 up four or five days before you cafe it. Leave on the 
 ears, but take out all the bones, except thofe of the head, 
 which mud be left entire. Lay your hare on the table, 
 and put into it the following forcemeat: Take the crumb 
 cf a penny loaf, the liver flnred fine, half a pound of fat 
 bacon lcraped, a glafs of red wine, an anchovy, two 
 eggs, a little winter favory, fome fweet marjoram, thyme, 
 and a little pepper, fait, and nutmeg. Having put this 
 into the belly, roll it up to the head, and faflen it with 
 packthread, as you would a collar of veal. Wrap it in 
 a cloth, and boil it an hour and a half, in a faucepan 
 covered, with two quarts of water. As foon as the 
 liquor is reduced to about a quart, put in a pint of red 
 wine, a fpoonful of lemon-pickle, one of catchup, and the 
 fame of browning. Then dew it till it is reduced to a 
 pint, and thicken it with butter rolled in flour. Lay round 
 your hare a few morels, and four fiices of forcemeat boiled 
 in a caul of a leg of veal. When you difh it up, draw the 
 jaw-bones, and dick them in the fockets of the eyes. Let 
 the ears lie back on the roll, and dick a fprig of myrtle 
 in the mouth. Strain your fauce over it, and garnifh with 
 barberries and parfley. 
 
 Florendine Rabbits. 
 
 SKIN three young rabbits, but leave on the ears, 
 and wafh and dry them with a cloth. Take out the 
 bones as carefully as you can, but leave the head whole, 
 and proceed in the fame manner as before directed for the 
 hare. Have ready a white fauce made of veal gravy, 
 a little anchovy, and the juice of half a lemon, or a tea- 
 fpoonful of lemon-pickle. Strain it, and then put in a 
 quarter of a pound of butter rolled in flour, fo as to 
 
 make 
 
G A M* E, &c. i q c 
 
 make the fauce pretty thick. Beat up the yolk of an egg, 
 put to it fome thick cream, nutmeg, and fait, and mix it 
 with the gravy. Lee it fimmer a little over the fire, but 
 not boil, then pour it over your rabbits, and ferve them 
 up. Garnifh with lemon and barberries. 
 
 Jugged Hare. 
 
 CUT your hare into fmall pieces, and lard them here 
 and there with little flips of bacon, ieafon them with pep¬ 
 per and fait, and put them into an earthen jug, with a blade 
 or two of mace, an onion (luck with cloves, and a bunch 
 of fweet-herbs. Cover the jug clofe, that nothing may 
 get in; fet it in a pot of boiling water, and three hours 
 will do it. Then turn it into the difh, take out the onion 
 and fweet-herbs, and fend it hot to table. 
 
 Rabbits furprijed. 
 
 TAKE two young rabbits, fkewer them, and put 
 the fame kind of pudding into them as for roafted rabbits. 
 When they are roafted, take off the meat clean from the 
 bones ; but leave the bones whole. Chop the meat very 
 fine, with a little flared parfley, fome lemon peel, an 
 ounce of beef marrow, a lpoonful of cream, and a little 
 fait. Beat up the yolks of two eggs boiled hard, and a 
 final! piece of butter, in a marble mortar ; then mix all 
 together, and put it into a ftew-pan. Having ftewed it 
 five minutes, lay it on the rabbits, where you took the 
 meat off, and put it clofe down with your hand, to make 
 them appear like whole rabbits. Then with a falaman- 
 der brown them all over. Pour a good brown gravy, 
 made as thick as cream, into the difh, and flick a bunch 
 of myrtle in their mouths. Send them up to table, with 
 their livers boiled and frothed. 
 
 Rabbits en Caffe-role. 
 
 CUT your rabbits into quarters, and then lard them 
 or not, juft as you pleafe. Shake fome flour over them, 
 and fry them in lard or butter. Then put them into an 
 earthen pipkin, with a quart of good broth, a glafs of 
 white wine, a little pepper and fait, a bunch of fweet- 
 herbs, and a fmall piece of butter rolled in flour. Cover 
 
 U 2 them 
 
i 5 b MADE DISHES. 
 
 them clofe, and let them (tew half an hour ; then did* 
 them up, and pour the fauce over them. Garnifh with 
 Seville oranges cut into thin dices, and notched. 
 
 Maccaroni. 
 
 BROIL four ounces of maccaroni till it is quite tender, 
 then lay it on a heve to drain, and put it into a dew-pan, 
 with about a gill of cream, and a piece of butter rolled in 
 Hour. Boil it five minutes, pour it on a plate. Lay 
 Parmafan cheefc toaded all over it, and fend it up in a 
 water-plate. 
 
 Amulets. 
 
 TAKE fix eggs, beat them up as fine as you can, 
 drain them through a hair deve, and put them into a fry¬ 
 ing-pan, in which mud be a quarter of a pound of hot 
 butter. Throw in a little ham feraped fine, with Hired 
 pardey; and ieafon them with pepper, fait, and nutmeg. 
 Fry it brown on the under fide, and lay it on your difh, 
 but do not turn it. Hold a hot falamander over it for 
 half a minute, to fake off the raw look of the eggs. Stick 
 curled parfley in it, and ferve it up. 
 
 AmuLd of Afparagus. 
 
 BEAT up fix eggs with cream, boil fome of the larged 
 and lined afparagus, and, when boiled, cut off all the green 
 in fmail pieces. Mix them with the eggs, and put in l'ome 
 pepper and fait. Make a fhee of butter hot in the pan, put 
 them in, and iefve them up on buttered toad. 
 
 Gyjler Loaves. 
 
 MAKE a hole in the top of fome little round loaves, 
 and take out all the crumb. Put fome oyfters into a dew- 
 pan, with the oyfter liquor, and the crumbs that were 
 taken out of the loaves, and a large piece of butter, dew 
 them together five or fix minutes, then put in a lpoonful 
 of good cream, and fill your loaves. Lay a bit of crud 
 carefully on the top of each, and put them in the oven 
 to crifp. 
 
 Mujhroom Loaves. 
 
 TAKE fome fmail buttons, and wafh them as for 
 |dckling. ' Boil them a few minutes in a little water, and 
 
 put 
 
VEGETABLES. 157 
 
 •put to them two large fpoonsful of cream, with a bit of but¬ 
 ter rolled in flour, and a little fait and pepper. Boil thefe 
 up, then fill your loaves, and do them in the fame manner 
 as directed in the preceding article. 
 
 Eggs and Brocoli. 
 
 BOIL your brocoli tender, obferving to fave a large 
 bunch for the middle, and fix or eight little thick fprigs to 
 (tick round. Toatt a bit of bread as large as you would 
 have it for your difh or butter plate. Butter fome eggs 
 thus:—Take fix eggs, or as many as you have occafion 
 for, beat them well, put them into a fauce-pan, with a 
 good piece of butter and a little fait; keep beating them 
 with a fpoon till they are thick enough, and then pour 
 them on the toaft. Set the largeft bunch of brocoli in 
 the middle, and the other little pieces round and about. 
 Garnith the difh with little fprigs of brocoli. This is a 
 pretty fide difh, or corner plate.. 
 
 Spinach and Eggs . 
 
 PICK and wafh your fpinach very clean in feveral 
 waters, then put it into a faucepan with a little fait; cover 
 it clofe, and fhake the pan often. When it is jult tender, 
 and whilft it is green, throw it into a fieve to drain, and 
 then lay it in your difh. Have ready a ftew-pan of water 
 boiling, and break as many eggs into cups as you would 
 poach. When the water boils, put in the eggs, have an 
 egg-flice ready to take them out with, lay them on the 
 fpinach, and ferve them up with melted butter in a cup. 
 Garnifh with orange cut into quarters. 
 
 ——i—sgsg&a 
 
 C PI A P. XIII. 
 
 VEGETABLES and ROOTS. 
 
 N drefling thefe articles, the greatefl: attention muft 
 — be paid to cleanlinefs. They are, particularly at 
 fome times of the year, fubjedt to dull, dirt, and infects, 
 fo that if they are not properly cleanfed, they will be 
 unfatisfadtory to thofe for vLhd'm they are provided, and, 
 
 difre- 
 
158 VEGETABLES. 
 
 difreputable to the cook. To avoid this, be careful firft to 
 pick off all the outfide leaves, then waff them well in fe- 
 veral waters, and let them lay fome time in a pan of dean 
 water before you drels them. Be fore your faucepan is 
 thoroughly clean, and boil them by themfelves in plenty 
 of water. They ffould always be brought crifp to table, 
 which will be effected by being careful not to boil them 
 too much.—Such are the general obfervations neceffary 
 to be attended to in drefling of Vegetables and Roots. 
 We fhall now proceed to particulars, beginning with 
 
 ‘Afparagus. 
 
 SCRAPE all the ftalks very carefully till they'look 
 white, then cut them all even alike, and throw them 
 into a pan of dean water, and have ready a ftew-pan 
 with water boiling. Put fome fait in, and tie the 
 afparagus in little bunches, put them in, and when they 
 are a little tender, take them up. If you boil them too 
 much, they will lofe both their colour and tafte. Cut 
 the round off a fmall loaf, about half an inch thick, 
 and toaft it brown on both fides: then dip it into the 
 liquor the afparagus was boiled in, and lay it in your 
 diih. Pour a little melted butter over your toaft, then 
 lay your afparagus on the toaft all round your diff, with 
 the heads inwards, and fend it to table, with melted butter 
 in a bafon. Some pour melted butter over them; but 
 this is injudicious, as it makes the handling them very 
 difagreeable. 
 
 Artichokes . 
 
 TWIST off the ftalks, then put them into cold water, 
 and waff them well. When the water boils, put them 
 in with the tops downwards, that all the dull and fand 
 may boil out. About an hour and a half, or two hours, 
 will do them. Serve them up with melted butter in 
 cups. 
 
 Brocoli. 
 
 CAREFULLY ftrip off all the little branches till 
 you come to the top one, and then with a knife peel off 
 the hard outfide fkin that is on the ftalks and little 
 branches, and throw them into water. Have ready a 
 
 flew- 
 
ROOTS, &c. 
 
 dew-pan of water, throw in a little fait, and when it boils, 
 put in your brocoli. When the (talks are tender it is 
 enough. Put in a piece of toafted bread, foaked in the 
 water the brocoli was boiled in, at the bottom of your 
 difh,. and put your brocoli on the top of it, as you do 
 afparagus. Send them up to table laid in bunches, with 
 butter in a boat. 
 
 Cauliflowers . 
 
 TAKE off all the green part, then cut the flower into 
 four parts, and lay them in water for an hour. Then have 
 fome milk and water boiling, put in the cauliflowers, and 
 be fure to (kirn the faucepan well. When the (talks feel 
 tender, take up the flowers carefully, and put them in a 
 cullender to drain. Then put a fpoonful of water into a 
 clean (tew 7 -pan, with a little dud of flower, about a quarter 
 of a pound of butter, a little pepper and fait, and fhake 
 it round till the butter is melted, and the whole well 
 mixed together. Then take half the cauliflower, and 
 cut it as you would for pickling. Lay it into the (lew- 
 pan, turn it, and lhake the pan round for about ten mi¬ 
 nutes, which will be a fufficient time to do it properly. 
 Lay the dewed in the middle of your plate, the boiled 
 round it, and pour over it the butter in which the one half 
 was dewed.—This is a delicate mode of dreffing cauli¬ 
 flowers ; but the ufual way is as follows: Cut the dalks 
 off, leave a little green on, and boil them in fpring water 
 and fait for about fifteen minutes. Then take them out, 
 drain them, and fend them whole to table, with melted 
 butter in a fauce-boat. 
 
 Green Peas. 
 
 LET your peas be fhelled as fhort a time as you can 
 before they are drefled, as otherwile they will lofe a 
 great part of their fweetnefs. Put them into boiling 
 water, with a little fait and a lump of loaf fugar, and 
 when they begin to dent in the middle, they are enough. 
 Put them into a fieve, drain the water clear from them, 
 and pour them into your difh. Put in them a good 
 lump of butter, and dir them about with a fpoon till 
 it is thoroughly melted. Mix with them likewife a little 
 
 pepper 
 
160 VEGETABLES. 
 
 pepper and fait. Boil a fmall bunch of mint by itfelf, 
 chop it fine, and lay it in lumps round the edge of your 
 difh. Melted butter is lometimes preferred to mixing it 
 with the peas. 
 
 Windfor Beans. 
 
 THESE mud be boiled in plenty of water, with a 
 good quantity of fait in it, and when they feel tender, 
 are enough. Boil and chop l'orne parfley, put it into 
 good melted butter, and ferve them up with boiled bacon 
 and the butter and parfley in a boat. Remember never 
 to boil them with bacon, as that will greatly dilcolour 
 them. , - 
 
 Kidney Beans. 
 
 FIRST carefully ftring them, then flit them down the 
 middle, and cut them acrofs. Put them into fait and wa¬ 
 ter, and when the water boils in your faucepan, put them 
 in with a little fait. They will be foon done, which may 
 be known by their feeling tender. Drain the water clear 
 from them, lay them in a plate, and fend them up with 
 butter in a fauce-boat. 
 
 Spinach. 
 
 BE careful to pick it exceeding clean, then wafh it in 
 five or fix waters, put it into a faucepan that will juft hold 
 it, without water, throw a little fait over it, and cover it 
 clofe. Put your faucepan on a clear quick fire, and when 
 you find the fpinach ihrunk and fallen to the bottom, and 
 the liquor that comes out boils up, it is done. Then put 
 it into a clean fieve to drain, and juft give it a ge: e 
 fqueeze. Lay it on a plate, and fend it to table, ;ih 
 melted butter in a boat. 
 
 Cabbages. 
 
 AFTER you have taken off the outer leaves ;.nd well 
 wafhed them, quarter them, and boil them in plenty of 
 water, with a handful of fait. When they are tender, 
 drain them on a feve, but do not prd's them.—Savoys 
 and greens muft be boiled in the fame manner, but always 
 by themfclves, by which means they will eat crilp, and be 
 of a good colour. 
 
 Turnips. 
 
ROOTS, > &c. 161 
 
 Turnips. 
 
 THESE may be boiled in the fame pot with your 
 meat, and, indeed, will eat beft if lb done. When they 
 are enough, take them out, put them into a pan, mafh 
 them with butter, and a little fait, and in that ftate lend 
 them to table. 
 
 Another method of boiling turnips, is thus: When 
 you have pared them, cut them into little fquare pieces, 
 then put them into a faucepan, and juft cover them with 
 water. As foon as they are enough, take them off the 
 fire, and put them into a fieve to drain. Then put them 
 into a faucepan with a good piece of butter, ftir them over 
 the fire a few minutes, put them into your difh, and ferve 
 them up. 
 
 Carrots. 
 
 SCRAPE your carrots very clean, put them into the 
 pot, and when they are enough, take them out, and rub 
 them in a clean cloth. Then flice them into a plate, and 
 pour fome melted butter over them. If they are young, 
 half an hour will fufficiently boil them. 
 
 Parfnips. 
 
 THESE muft be boiled in plenty of water, and when 
 they are loft, which you may know by running a fork into 
 them, take them up. Scrape them all fine with a knife, 
 throw away all the fticky part, and fend them to table, 
 with melted butter in a fauce-boat. 
 
 Potatoes. 
 
 THESE muft be boiled in fo final! a quantity of water 
 as will be juft fufficient to keep the faucepan from burn¬ 
 ing. Keep them clofe covered, and as foon as the Ikins 
 begin to crack, they are enough. Having drained out 
 all the water, let them remain in the faucepan covered for 
 two or three minutes; then peel them, lay them in a 
 plate, and pour fome melted butter over them. Or, 
 when you have peeled them, you may do thus : lay them 
 on a gridiron till they are of a fine brown, and then fend 
 them to table. 
 
 X 
 
 Potatoes ♦ 
 
162 BOILED 
 
 Potatoes fcolloped. 
 
 HAVING boiied your potatoes, beat them fine in a 
 bowl, with lome cream, a large piece of butter, and a little 
 fait. Put them into fcollop-fhtlls, make them fmooth on 
 the top, fcore them with a knife, and lay thin Dices of 
 butter on the tops of them. Then put them into a Dutch 
 
 oven to brown before the fire.-This makes a pretty 
 
 diffi for a light lupper. 
 
 C H A P. XIV. 
 
 PUDDINGS. - 3vi 
 
 i 'N this degree of cookery fome previous and general 
 obfervMtem are neceffary ; the moft material of which 
 are, fsKV, that your cloth be thoroughly clean, and before 
 you put your pudding- into it, dip it into boiling water, 
 Drew fome flour over ft, and then give it a fhake. If it is 
 a bread pudding, tie it looie; but if a batter pudding, 
 clofe; and never put your pudding in ’till the water boils. 
 All bread and cuflard puddings that are baked require 
 time and a moderate oven ; but batter and rice puddings 
 a quick oven. Before you put your pudding into the 
 diffi for baking, be cafeful always to moiften the bottom 
 and Tides with butter. 
 
 SECT. I. 
 
 BOILED PUDDINGS. 
 
 Bread Pudding. 
 
 TAKE the crumb of a penny loaf, cut it into very 
 thin Acts, put it into a quart of milk, and fet it over 
 a chaffing- dilh of coals ’till the bread has loaked up all 
 the milk. Then put in a piece of butter, flir it round, 
 and let it (land till it is cold •> or you may boil your milk, 
 and pour it over the bread, and cover it up clofe, which 
 will equally anfwer the fame purpofe. Then take the 
 
PUDPINGS. 163 
 
 yolks of fix eggs, the whites of three, and beat them up with 
 a little rofe-water and nutmeg, and a litde fait and fugar. 
 Mix all well together, and put it into your cloth, tie it loot's 
 to give it room to fwell, and boil it an hour. When done, 
 put it into your dilh, pour melted bptter over it, and fcrve 
 it to table. 
 
 Another, but more expenfive, way of making a bread¬ 
 pudding is this; cut thin all the crumb of a ftale penny 
 loaf, and put it into a quart of cream, fet it over a flow 
 fire, ’till it is fcalding hot, and then let it ftand ’till it is 
 cold. Beat up the bread and the cream well together, 
 and grate in fome nutmeg. Take twelve bitter almonds; 
 boil them in two fpoonsful of water, pour the water to 
 the cream, ftir it in with a little fait, and fweeten it to your 
 tafte. Blanch the almonds in a mortar, with two fpoons¬ 
 ful of rofe or orange flower water, ’till they are a fine 
 pafte; then mix them by degrees with the cream. 
 Take the yolks of eight eggs, and the whites of four, 
 beat them up well, put them into the cream likewife, and 
 mix the whole well together. Dip your cloth into warm 
 water, and flour it well, before, you put in the pudding; 
 tie it loofe, and let it boil an hour. Take care the water 
 boils when you put it in, and that it keeps fo all the time. 
 When it is enough, turn it into your dilh. Melt fome 
 butter, and put in it two or three fpoonsful of white wine 
 or fack; give it a boil, and pour it over your pudding. 
 Then ftrew a good deal of fine fugar over your pudding 
 and difh, and fend it hot to table. Inftead of a cloth, you 
 may boil it in a bowl or bafon, which is indeed the better 
 way of the two. In this cafe, when it is enough, take 
 it up in the bafon, and let it ftand a minute or two to 
 cool; then untie the firing, wrap the cloth round the 
 bafon, lay your dilh over it, and turn the pudding out: 
 then take off the bafon and cloth with great care, other- 
 wife a light pudding will be fubjeLft to break in turn¬ 
 ing out. 
 
 Batter Pudding. 
 
 TAKE a quart of milk, beat up the yolks of fix eggs, 
 and the whites of three, and mix them with a quarter of a 
 pint of milk. Then take lix fpoonsful of flour, a tea 
 
 X 2 l’poonful 
 
164 BOILED' 
 
 fpoonful of fait, and one of ginger. Put to thefe the remain- 
 derof the milk, mix all well together, put it into your doth, 
 and boil it an hour and a quarter. Pour melted butter over 
 it when you ferve it up. 
 
 A batter pudding may be made without eggs, in which 
 cafe proceed thus : take a quart of milk, mix fix fpoons- 
 ful of flour with a little of the milk firft, a tea-fpoonful of 
 fait, two of beaten ginger, and two of the tindure of fafifron. 
 Then mix all together, and boil it an hour. 
 
 Cujlard Pudding. 
 
 PUT a piece of cinnamon into a pint of thick cream, 
 boil it, and add a quarter of a pound of fugar. When 
 cold, put in the yolks of five eggs well beaten : ftir this 
 over the fire till it is pretty thick, but be careful it does 
 not boil. When quite cold, butter a cloth well, duft it 
 with flour, tie the cuflard in it very clofe, and boil it three 
 quarters of an hour. When you take it up, put it into a 
 bafon to cool a little ; untie the cloth, lay the difh on the 
 bafon, and turn it carefully put. Grate over it a little 
 fugar, and ferve it up with melted butter and a little wine 
 in a boat. 
 
 Qmking Pudding. 
 
 TAKE a quart of cream, boil it, and let it (land till al- 
 moft cold; then beat up four eggs very fine, with a fpoom 
 ful and a half of flour: mix them well with your cream: 
 add fugar and nutmeg to your palate. Tie it clofe up in 
 a cloth well buttered. Let it boil an hour, and then turn it 
 carefully out. Pour over it melted butter. 
 
 Sago Pudding. 
 
 BOIL two ounces of fago jn a pint of milk till tender. 
 When cold, add five eggs, two Naples bifcuits, a little 
 brandy, and fugar to the tafte. Boil it in a bafon, and ferve 
 it up with melted butter, arid a little wine and fugar. 
 
 Marroxo Pudding. 
 
 GRATE a penny loaf with crumbs, and pour on them 
 a pint of boiling hot cream. Cut a pound of beef marrow 
 very thin, beat up four eggs well, and then add a glals 
 of brandy, with fugar and nutmeg to your tafte. Mix 
 
 them 
 
PUDDINGS. 165 
 
 them all well together, and boil it three quarters of an hour. 
 Cut two ounces of citron into very thin bits, and when you 
 difh up your pudding, ftick them all over it. 
 
 Bifcuit Pudding. 
 
 POUR a pint of boiling milk or cream over three 
 penny Naples bifcuits grated, and cover it clofe. When 
 cold, add the yolks of four eggs, the whites of two, fome 
 nutmeg, a little brandy, half a fpoonful of flour, and iome 
 fugar. Boil it an hour in a china bafon, and ferve it up 
 with melted butter, wine, and fugar. 
 
 Almond Pudding. 
 
 TAKE a pound of fweet almonds, and beat them as 
 fine as poflible, with three fpoonsful of role water, and a 
 gill of fack or white wine. Mix in half a pound of frefli 
 butter melted, with five yolks of eggs, and two whites, a 
 quart of cream, a quarter of a pound of fugar, half a nut¬ 
 meg grated, one fpoonful of flour, and three fpoonsful of 
 crumbs of bread. Mix all well together, and boil it.— 
 Half an hour will do it. 
 
 Tanfey Pudding. 
 
 PUT as much boiling cream to four Naples bifcuits 
 grated as will wet them, beat them with the yolks of four 
 eggs. Have ready a few chopped tanfey-leaves, with as 
 much fpinach as will make it a pretty green. Be careful 
 not to put too much tanfey in, becaufe it will make it 
 bitter. Mix all together when the cream is cold, with a 
 little fugar, and fet it over a flow fire till it grows thick, 
 then take it ofF, and, when cold, put it in a cloth, well 
 buttered and floured; tie it up clofe, and let it boil three 
 quarters of an hour; take it up in a bafon, and let it (land 
 one quarter, then turn it carefully out, and put white wine 
 iauce round it. 
 
 Or you may make it thus: 
 
 TAKE a quarter of a pound of almonds, blanch 
 them, and beat them very fine with rofe-water; flice a 
 French roll very thin, put in a pint of cream boiling hot; 
 beat four eggs very well, and raix with the eggs wheh 
 beaten, a little fugar and grated nutmeg, a glafs of 
 
 brandy 
 
i66 .BOILED 
 
 brandy, a little juice of tan fey, and the juice of fpinach 
 to make it green. Put all the ingredients into a ftew- 
 pan, with a quarter of a pound of butter, and give it a 
 gentle boil. You may either put it into a cloth and boil 
 it, or bake it in a dilb. 
 
 Herb Pudding. 
 
 STEEP a quart of grotts in warm water half an hour, 
 and then cut a-pound of hog’s-lard into little bits. Ta^e 
 of fpinach, beets, parfley, and leeks, a handful of each j 
 three large onions chopped fmall, and three fage leaves 
 cut very fine. Put in a little fait, mix all well together, 
 and tie it clofe. It will require to be taken up while 
 boiling, in order to loofen the firing. 
 
 Spinach' Pudding. 
 
 PICK and wafh clean a quarter of a peck of fpinach, 
 put it into a faucepan with a little fait, cover it clofe, and 
 when it is boiled j,ud tender, throw it into a fieve to drain. 
 Then chop it with a knife, beat up fix eggs, and mix 
 with it half a pint of cream, and a dale roll grated fine, 
 a little nutmeg, and a quarter of a pound of melted but¬ 
 ter. Stir all .well together, put it into the fauCepan in 
 which you boiled the fpinach, and keep flirring it all the 
 •time till it begins to thicken. Then wet and flour your 
 cloth avcII, tie it up, and boil it an hour. When done, 
 turn it in your dilh, pour melted butter over it, with the 
 juice of a Seville .orange, and drew on it a little grated 
 fugar, -•> o . j, i. > 
 
 ' - f ' J- Cream Pudding. 
 
 . BOIL a quart of cream with a blade of mace, and 
 half a nutmeg grated, and then let it Hand to cool. 
 Beat up eight eggs, and three whites, and drain them 
 well. Mix a fpoenful of flour with them, a quarter of 
 a pound of almonds blanched and beat very fine, with a 
 fpooriful of orange-flower or rofe-water. Then by de- 
 greesy mix in the cream, and dir all well together. 
 Take a thick cloth, wet and flour it well, pour in your 
 mixture, tie it clofe, and boil it half an hour. Let the 
 water boil fad all the time, and, when done, turn it in 
 
 your 
 
PUDDINGS. 16/ 
 
 your difh, pour melted butter over it, with a little wine or 
 fade, and llrew on the top fine fugar grated. 
 
 Hunting Pudding. 
 
 MIX eight eggs beat up fine with a pint of good 
 cream, and a pound of flour. Beat them well together, 
 and put to them a pound of beef fuet finely chopped, a 
 pound of currants well cleaned, half a pound of jar-raifins 
 ftoried and chopped fmall, two ounces of candied orange 
 cut fmall, the lame of candied citron, a quarter of a 
 pound of powdered fugar, and a large- nutmeg grated. 
 Mix all together with half a gill of brandy, put it into 
 a cloth, and boil it four hours. Be fure to put it in 
 when the waiter boils, and keep it boiling all the time. 
 When done, turn it into a difh, and ftrew over it pow¬ 
 dered fugar. 
 
 Steak Pudding. 
 
 MAKE a; good cruft, with flour and fuet Hired fine, 
 and mix it up with cold water j feafon it with a little 
 fair, and make it pretty ftiff. Take either beef or 
 mutton fteaks, well feafon them with pepper and fait, 
 and niake it up as you would an apple pudding; tie it 
 in a cloth, and put it in when the water boils. If a fmall 
 pudding, it will take three hours; if a large one five 
 hours. 
 
 i 
 
 Calf’ S-Foot Pudding. 4 
 
 MINCE very fine a pound of calves-feet, firft taking 
 out the fat and brown. Then take a pound and a half of 
 fuet, pick off ail the fkin, and lhred it fmall. Take fix? 
 eggs, all the yolks, and but half the whites, and beat- 
 them well. Then take the crumb of a half-penny roll 
 grated, a pound of currants clean picked and wafhed, 
 and rubbed in a cloth, as much milk as will moiften it 
 with the eggs, a handful of flour, and a little fair, nut¬ 
 meg, and fugar, to feafon it to your tafte. Boil it nine 
 hours; then take it up, lay it in your difh, and pour 
 melted butter over it. If you put white wine and fugar 
 into the butter, ft will be a .pleafing addition. 
 
 * 4 Prune 
 
168 BOILED 
 
 Prune Pudding. 
 
 TAKE a few fpoonfuls from a quart of milk, and 
 beat in it fix yolks of eggs and three whites, four fpoons- 
 ful of flour, a little fait, and two fpoonsful of beaten 
 ginger. Then by degrees mix in the reft of the milk, 
 and a pound of prunes. Tie it up in a cloth, boil it 
 an hour, and pour over it melted butter. Damfons 
 done in the fame manner are equally good. 
 
 Plumb Pudding. 
 
 CUT a pound of fuet into fmall pieces, but not too 
 fine, a pound of currants wafhed clean, a pound of rai- 
 fons ftoned, eight yolks of eggs, and four whites, half 
 a nutmeg grated, a tea-fpoonful of beaten ginger, a 
 pound of flour, and a pint of milk. Beat the eggs firft, 
 then put to them half the milk, and beat them together; 
 and, by degrees, ftir in the flour, then the fuet, ipice 
 and fruit, and as much milk as will mix it well together, 
 very thick. It will take four hours boiling. When 
 done, turn it into your difh, and ftrew over it grated 
 iugar. 
 
 Hafly Pudding. 
 
 PUT four bay-leaves into a quart of milk, and fet 
 it on the fire to boil. Then beat up the yolks of two 
 eggs with a little fait. Take two or three fpoonsful of 
 milk, and beat up with your eggs, take out the bay- 
 leaves, and ftir up the remainder of the milk. Then 
 with a wooden fpoon in one hand, and flour in the other, 
 ftir it in till it is of a good thicknefs, but not too thick. 
 Let it boil, and keep it ftirring; then pour it into a difh, 
 and ftick pieces of butter in different places. Remem¬ 
 ber, before you ftir in the flour to take out the bay- 
 leaves. 
 
 Oatmeal Pudding. 
 
 T AKE a pint of whole oatmeal, and fteep it in a quart 
 of boiled milk over night. In the morning take half 
 a pound of beef fuet Aired fine, and mix with the oatmeal 
 and milk; then add to them fome grated nutmeg and 
 a little fait, with three eggs beat up, a quarter of a 
 pound of currants, the fame quantity of raifins, and as 
 
 much 
 
PUDDINGS. 169 
 
 much fugar as will fweeten it. Stir the whole well toge¬ 
 ther, tie it pretty clofe, and boil it two hours. When 
 done, turn it into your difh, and pour over it melted 
 butter. 
 
 Suet Pudding. 
 
 TAKE fix fpoonsful of flour, a pound of fuet flared 
 fmall, four eggs, a fpoonful of beaten ginger, a tea-fpoon- 
 ful of fait, and a quart of milk. Mix the eggs and flour 
 with a pint of the milk very thick, and with the feafoning 
 mix in the reft of the milk with the fuet. Let your batter 
 be pretty thick, and boil it two hours. 
 
 Veal-Suet Pudding. 
 
 TAKE a three-penny loaf, and cut the crumb of it 
 into dices. Boil and pour two quarts of milk on the 
 bread, and then put to it one pound of veal fuet melted 
 down. Add to thefe one pound of currants, and fugar 
 to the tafte, half a nutmeg, and fix eggs well mixed to¬ 
 gether. This pudding may be either boiled or baked; 
 if the latter, be careful to well butter the infide of your 
 difh. 
 
 Cabbage Pudding. 
 
 TAKE one pound of beef fuet, and as much of the 
 lean part of a leg of veal. Then take a little cabbage well 
 wafhed, and fcald it. Brake the fuet, veal, and cabbage to¬ 
 gether in a marble mortar, and feafon it with mace, nut¬ 
 meg, ginger, a little pepper and fait, and put in l'ome green 
 goofeberries, grapes, or barberries. Mix them all well 
 with the yolk of four or five eggs well beaten. Wrap all 
 up together in a green cabbage-leaf, and tie it in a cloth. 
 It will take about an hour boiling. 
 
 A Spoonful Pudding. 
 
 T AKE a fpoonful of flour, a fpoonful of cream, or milk, 
 an egg, a little nutmeg, ginger, and fait. Mix all together, 
 and boil it in a little wooden difh half an hour. If you 
 think proper, you may add a few currants. 
 
 White Puddings in Skins. 
 
 BOIL half a pound of rice in milk till it is foft, havin 
 firft wafhed the rice well in warm water. Put it into 
 V. • Y ficVe 
 
 $> 09 
 
1 7 0 BOILED 
 
 fieve to drain, and beat half a pound of Jordan almond's 
 very fine with fome rofe-water. Wafh and dry a pound 
 of currants, cut in fmall bits, a pound of hog’s-lard, beat 
 up fix eggs well, half a pound of fugar, a large nutmeg 
 grated, a flick of cinnamon, a little mace, and a little 
 fait. Mix them well together, fill your fkins, and boil 
 them. *t . j 
 
 Apple Pudding. 
 
 HAVING made a pufF-pafle, roll it near half an inch 
 thick, and fill the cruft with apples pared and cored.— 
 Grate in a little lemon-peel, and, in the winter, a little 
 lemon-juice (as it quickens the apples) put in fome fugar, 
 ciofe the cruft, and tie it in a cloth. A fmall pudding 
 will take two hours boiling, and a large one three or 
 Four. 
 
 Apple Dumplins. 
 
 WHEN you have pared your apples, take out the 
 core with an apple -l'cra per, and fill up the hole with 
 quince, orange-marmalade, or fugar, as may beft fuit you. 
 Then take a piece of pafte, make a hole in it, lay in your 
 apple, put another piece of pafte in the fame form over 
 it, and ciofe it up round the fide of the apple. Put them 
 into boiling water, and about three quarters of an hour 
 will do them. Serve them up with melted butter poured 
 over them. 
 
 Suet Dumplins. 
 
 TAKE a pint of milk, four eggs, a pound of luet, a 
 little fait and nutmeg, two tea-fpoonsful of ginger, and 
 fuch a quantity of flour, as will make it into a light 
 pafte. When the water boils, make the pafte into 
 dumplins, and roll them in a little flour. Then put 
 them into the water, and move them gently to prevent 
 their flicking. A little more than half an hour will boil 
 them. 
 
 Rajberry Dumplins. 
 
 MAKE a good puff pafte and roll it. Spread over it 
 rafberry jam, roll it into dumplins, and boil them an hour. 
 Pour melted butter into the difh, and ftrew over them 
 grated fugar. 
 
 4 
 
 Yeajl 
 
1 7 I 
 
 PUDDINGS. 
 
 Yeaji Dimplins. 
 
 MAKE a light dough with flour, water, yeaft, and 
 fait, as for bread, cover it with a cloth, and let it before 
 the fire for half an hour. Then have a faucepan of water 
 on the fire, and when it boils, take the dough, and make 
 it into round balls, as big as a large hen’s egg. Then 
 flatten them with your hand, put them into the boiling wa¬ 
 ter, and a few minutes will do them. Take care that they 
 do not fall to the bottom of the pot or faucepan, as in 
 that cafe they will then be heavy, and be fure to keep the 
 water boiling all the time. When they are enough take 
 them up, and lay them in your difh, with melted butter 
 in a boat. 
 
 Norfolk Dumplins. 
 
 TAKE half a pint of milk, two eggs, a little fait, and 
 make them into a good thick batter with flour. Have 
 ready a clean faucepan of water boiling, and drop your 
 batter into it, and two or three minutes will boil them ; 
 but be particularly careful that the water boils faft when 
 you put the batter in. Then throw them into a fieve to 
 drain, turn them into a difh, and ftir a lump of frefh butter 
 into them. 
 
 Hard Dumplins. 
 
 MAKE fome flour and water, with a little fait, into a 
 fort of pafte. Roll them in balls in a little flour, throw 
 them into boiling water, and half an hour will boil them. 
 They are belt boiled with a good piece of beef. 
 
 Potatoe Pudding. 
 
 BOIL half a pound of potatoes till they are foft, then 
 peel them, mafh them with the back of a fpoon, and rub 
 them through a fieve to have them fine and fmooth. 
 Then take half a pound of frefh butter melted, half a 
 pound of fine fugar, and beat them well together till they 
 are quite fmooth. Beat up fix eggs, whites as well as 
 yolks, and ftir them in with a glafs of fack or brandy. 
 Pour it into your cloth, tie it up, and about half an hour 
 will do it. When you take it out, melt fome butter, put 
 into it a glafs of wine fweetened with fugar, and pour it 
 over your pudding. 
 
 Y 2 
 
 Black 
 
1J2 
 
 BAKED 
 
 Black Puddings. 
 
 BEFORE you kill a hog, get a peck of grotts, boil 
 them half an hour in water, then drain them, and put them 
 in a clean tub, or large pan. Then kill your hog, lave two 
 quarts of the blood, and keep ftirring it till it is quite 
 cold; then mix it with your grotts, and ftir them well to¬ 
 gether. Seafon with a large fpoonful of fait, a quarter 
 of an ounce of cloves, mace, and nutmeg together, an 
 equal quantity of each; dry it, beat it well, and mix in. 
 Take a little winter-favory, lweet-marjoram, and thyme, 
 penny-royal ftripped of the (talks and chopped very fine; 
 juft enough to feafon them, and to give them a flavour, 
 but no more. The next day take the leaf of the hog, 
 and cut it into dice, fcrape, and wafli the guts very clean, 
 then tie one end, and begin to fill them ; mix in the 
 fat as you fill them, be fure to put in a good deal of 
 fat, fill the (kins three parts full, tie the other end, and 
 make your pudding what length you pleafe; prick them 
 with a pin, and put them in a kettle of boiling water. Boil 
 them very fofdy an hour, then take them out, and lay them 
 on clean ffcraw. 
 
 .SEC T. II, 
 
 BAKED PUDDINGS. 
 
 Vermicelli Pudding. . 
 
 TAKE four ounces of vermicelli and boil it in a pint 
 of new milk till it is foft, with a (lick or two of cinna¬ 
 mon. Then put in half a pint of thick cream, a quarter 
 of a pound of butter, the like quantity of fugar, and the 
 yolks of four eggs beaten fine. Bake it without pafte in an 
 •earthen difh. 
 
 Sweetmeat Pudding , 
 
 COVER your difh with a thin pufF-pafle, and then 
 take candied orange or lemon-peel, and citron, of each an 
 ounce. Slice them thin, and lay them all over the bot¬ 
 tom of the difh. Then beat up eight yolks of eggs, and 
 two whites, and put to them half a pound of fugar, and 
 half a pound of melted butter. Mix the whole well to ¬ 
 gether j 
 
PUDDINGS. 173 
 
 gether, put it on the fweetmeats, and fend it to a mode¬ 
 rate heated oven. About an hour will do it. 
 
 Orange Pudding. 
 
 BOIL the rind of a Seville orange very foft, then beat 
 it in a marble mortar with the juice, and put to it two Na¬ 
 ples bifcuits grated very fine, a quarter of a pound of fugar, 
 half a pound of butter, and the yolks of fix eggs. Tylix them 
 well together, lay a good puff-pafte round the edge of your 
 dilh, and bake it half an hour in a gentle oven. Or you 
 may make it thus : 
 
 Take the yolks of fixteen eggs, beat them well with 
 half a pint of melted butter, grate in the rinds of two fine 
 Seville oranges, beat in half a pound of fine fugar, two 
 fpoonsful of orange flower-water, two of role-water, a gill 
 of fack, half a pint of cream, two Naples buifcuits, or the 
 crumb of a half-penny loaf foaked in cream, and mix all 
 well together. Make a thin puff-pafte, and lay it all round 
 the rim, and over the dilh. Then pour in the pudding, 
 and fend it to the oven. 
 
 Lemon Pudding. 
 
 TAKE three lemons, cut the rinds off very thin, and 
 boil them in three quarts of water till they are tender. 
 Then pound them very fine in a mortar, and have re^dy 
 a quarter of a pound of Naples bifcuits boiled up in a qu^rt 
 of milk or cream. Mix them and the lemon rind with it, 
 and beat up twelve yolks and fix whites of eggs very fine. 
 Melt a quarter of a pound of frelh butter, and put in half 
 a pound of fugar, and a little orange flower water. Mix 
 all well together, put it over the fire, keep it ftirring till 
 it is thick, and then fqueeze in the juice of half a lemom 
 Put puff-pafte round your dilh, then pour in your pud¬ 
 ding, cut forne candied fweetmeats and ftrew over it, and 
 bake it three quarters of an hour. Or you may make it 
 in this manner: 
 
 Blanch and beat eight ounces of Jordan almonds with 
 orange flower water, and add to them half a pound of 
 cold butter, the yolks of ten eggs, the juice of a large 
 lemon, and half the rind grated fine. Work them in a 
 marble mortar till they look white and light, then put 
 
 the 
 
j 7 4 BAKED 
 
 the puff-paile on your difh, pour in your pudding, and 
 bake it half an hour. 
 
 Almond Pudding. 
 
 TAKE a little more than three ounces of the crumb 
 of white bread diced, or grated, and deep it in a pint and 
 a half of cream. Then beat half a pint of blanched al¬ 
 monds very fine, till they are like a pafte, with a little 
 orange flower water. Beat up the yolks of eight eggs, 
 and the whites of four. Mix all well together, put in a 
 quarter of a pound of white fugar, and ftir in about a quar¬ 
 ter of a pound of melted butter. Put it over the fire, and 
 keep ftirring it till it is thick. Lay a fheet of puff-pafte at 
 the bottom of your difh, and pour in the ingredients. Half 
 an hour will bake it. ♦ 
 
 Rice Puddings. 
 
 BOIL four ounces of ground rice till it is foft, then beat 
 up the yolks of four eggs, and put to them a pint of cream, 
 four ounces of fugar, and a quarter of a pound of butter. 
 Mix them well together, and either boil or bake it. Or you 
 may make it thus: 
 
 Take a quarter of a pound of rice, put it into a fauce- 
 pan, with a quart of new milk, a flick of cinnamon, and 
 ftir it often to prevent its flicking to the faucepan. When 
 boiled till thick, put it into a pan, ftir in a quarter of a 
 pound of frelh butter, and fweeten it to your palate. 
 Grate in half a nutmeg, add three or four fpoonsful of 
 rofe-water, and ftir all well together. When it is cold, 
 beat up eight eggs with half the whites, mix them well 
 in, pour the whole in a buttered difh, and fend it to the 
 oven. 
 
 If you would make a cheap boiled rice pudding, pro¬ 
 ceed thus : Take a quarter of a pound of rice, and half 
 a pound of raifins, and tie them in a cloth; but give 
 the rice a good deal of room to fwell. Boil it two hours, 
 and when it is enough, turn it into your difli, and pour 
 melted butter and fugar over it, with a little nutmeg. 
 Or you may make it thus : Tie a quarter of a pound 
 of rice in a cloth, but give it room for fwelling. Boil 
 it an hour> then take it up, untie it, and with a fpoon 
 
PUDDINGS. , 175 
 
 ftir in a quarter of a pound of butter. Grate fome nutmeg, 
 and fweeten it to your tafte. Then tie it up clofe, and boil 
 it another hour. Then take it up, turn it into your difh, 
 and pour over it molted butter. 
 
 Millet Pudding. 
 
 WASH and pick clean half a pound of millet-leed, 
 put it into half a pound of fugar, a whole nutmeg grated, 
 and three quarts of milk, and break in half a pound of 
 frefh butter. Butter your difh, pour it in, and lend it to 
 the oven. , 
 
 Oat Pudding . 
 
 TAKE a pound of oats with the hulks off, and lay them 
 in new milk, eight ounces of raifins of the fun ftoned, the 
 fame quantity of currants well picked and wafhed, a pound 
 of fuet Ihred fine, and fix new laid eggs well beat up. Sea- 
 fon with nutmeg, beaten ginger, and fait, and mix them all 
 well together. 
 
 Fran [parent Pudding. 
 
 BEAT up eight eggs well in a pan, and put to them 
 half a pound of butter, and the fame quantity of loaf fugar 
 beat fine, with a little grated nutmeg. Set it on the fire, 
 and keep ftirring it till it is the thicknefs of buttered eggs. 
 Then put it into a bafon to cool, roll a rich puff pafle very 
 thin, lay it round the edge of your difh, and pour in the 
 ingredients. Put it into a moderately heated oven, and 
 about half an hour will do it. 
 
 French Barley Pudding. 
 
 BEAT up the yolks of fix eggs, and the whites of 
 three, and put them into a quart of cream. Sweeten it 
 to your palate, and put in a little orange flower water, 
 or rofe water, and a pound of melted butter. Then put 
 in fix handsful of French barley, having firft boiled itten- 
 der in milk. Then butter a difh, pour it in, and fend it 
 xo the oven. 
 
 Potatce Pudding . 
 
 BOIL two pounds of white potatoes till they are foft, 
 •peel and beat them in a mortar, and ftrain them through 
 a fieve till they are quite fine. Then mix in half a 
 
 pound 
 
i 76 BAKED 
 
 pound of frefh butter melted, beat up the yolks of eight 
 eggs and the whites of three. Add half a pound of white 
 fugar finely pounded, half a pint offack, and ftir them well 
 together. Grate in half a large nutmeg, and ftir in half a 
 pint of cream. Make a puff pafte, lay it all over the difh, 
 and round the edges; pour in the pudding, and bake it 
 till it is of a fine light brown. 
 
 Lady Sunderland's Pudding. 
 
 BEAT up the yolks of eight eggs w'ith the whites 
 of three, add to them five fpoonsful of flour, with half a 
 nutmeg, and put them into a pint of cream. Butter the 
 infides of fame fmall bafons, fill them half full, and bake 
 them an hour. When done, turn them out af the bafons, 
 and pour over them melted butter mixed with, wine and 
 fugar.- .v . ' ‘ 1 
 
 Citron Pudding. 
 
 TAKE a fpoonful of fine flour, two ounces of fugar, a 
 little nutmeg, and half a pint of cream. Mix them well to¬ 
 gether, with the yolks of three eggs. Put it into tea cups, 
 and divide among them two ounces of citron cut very thin. 
 Bake them in a pretty quick oven, and turn them out 
 upon a China diili. . . 
 
 Chefn'ui Pudding. 
 
 BOIL a dozen and a half of chefnuts in a faucepan of 
 water for a quarter of an hour. Then blanch and peel 
 them, and beat them in a marble mortar, with a little orange 
 flower or ro.fe water and fack, till they come to a fine thin 
 pafte. Then beat up twelve eggs with half the whites, and 
 mix them well. Grate half a nutmeg, a little fait, and mix 
 them with three pints of cream, and half a pound of melt- 
 -ed butter. • Sweeten it to your palate, and mix all toge¬ 
 ther. Put it over the' fire, and keep ftir ring it till it is 
 thick; 1 Lay a puft-pafte all over the difh, pour in the 
 mixture and fend it to the oven. When you cannot get 
 cream, take three pints of milk, beat up the yolks of four 
 eggs, and ftir into the milk. Set it over the fire, ftirring 
 it all the time till it is lcalding hot, and. then mix it infteaft 
 of cream. . g ■ ■ , 
 
 Quince 
 
PUDDINGS/ 
 
 Quince Pudding. 
 
 SCALD your quinces till they are very tender, then 
 pare them thin, and fcrape off all the foft part. Strew 
 fugar on them till they are very lweet, and put to them a 
 little ginger and a little cinnamon. To a pint of cream 
 put three or four yolks of eggs, and ftir your quinces in 
 it till it is of a good thicknefs. Butter your difh, pour 
 it in, and bake it.—In the lame manner you may treat 
 apricots, or white-pear plumbs. 
 
 Cowjl/p Pudding. 
 
 CUT and pound fmall the flowers of a peck of cow- 
 flips, with half a pound of Naples bifcuits grated, and 
 three pints of cream. Boil them a little, then take them 
 off the fire, and beat up fixteen eggs, with a little cream 
 and rofe water. Sweeten to your palate. Mix it all 
 well together, butter a difh, and pour it in. Bake it, 
 and when it is enough, throw fine fugar over it, and ferve 
 it up. 
 
 Cheefe-curd Puddings. 
 
 TURN a gallon of milk with rennet, and drain off 
 all the curd from the whey. Put the curd into a mortar 
 and beat it with half a pound of frefli butter, till the 
 butter and the curd are well mixed. Beat the yolks of 
 fix eggs, and the whites of three, and drain them to the 
 curd. Then grate two Naples bifcuits, or half a penny 
 roll. Mix all thcfe together, and lweeten to your palace. 
 Butter your patty-pans, and fill them with the ingre¬ 
 dients. Bake them in a moderately heated oven, and 
 when they are done, turn them out into a difti. Cut 
 citron and candied orange-peel into little narrow bits, 
 about an inch long, and blanched almonds cut in long 
 flips. Stick them here and there on the tops of the pud¬ 
 dings, according to your fancy. Pour melted butter, with 
 a little fack in it, into the difh, and throw fine fugar all 
 over them. 
 
 Apple Pudding. 
 
 PARE twelve large apples, and take out the cores. 
 Put them into a faucepan, with four or five fpoonsful of 
 water, and boil till they are foft and thick. Then beat 
 V. Z them 
 
178 BAKED 
 
 them well, ftir in a pound of loaf fugar, the juice of three 
 lemons, and the peels of two cut thin and beat fine in a 
 mortar, and the yolks of eight eggs. Mix all well toge¬ 
 ther, and bake it in a flack oven. When done, drew over 
 it a little fine fugar. . , 
 
 Bread and Butter Pudding . 
 
 CUT a-penny loaf into thin dices of bread and butter 
 as you do for tea. Butter your difh and lay flices all 
 over it. Strew on a few currants wafhed and picked 
 clean, then a row of bread and butter^ then a few currants 
 again, and fo on till your bread and butter is all in.— 
 Then take a pint of milk, beat up four eggs, a little fait, 
 and half a nutmeg grated. Mix all together with fugar to 
 your tafte; then pour it over the bread, and bake it half 
 an hour. 
 
 A Grateful Pudding. 
 
 TO a pound of flour add a pound of white bread grated. 
 Take eight eggs, but only half the whites j beat them up, 
 and mix with them a pint of new milk. Then ftir in the 
 bread and flour, a pound of raifins ftoned, a pound of cur¬ 
 rants, half a pound of fugar, and a little beaten ginger. 
 Mix all well together, pour it into your difh, and fend it 
 to the oven. If you can get cream inftead of milk, it 
 will be,a material improvement. 
 
 Carrot Pudding. 
 
 SCRAPE a raw carrot very clean, and grate it. Take 
 half a pound of the grated carrot, and a pound of grated 
 bread; beat up eight eggs, leave out half the whites, and 
 mix the eggs with half a pint of cream. Then ftir in the 
 bread and carrot, half a pound of frefli butter melted, half 
 a pint of fack, three fpoonsful of orange-flower water, and 
 a nutmeg grated. Sweeten to your palate. Mix all well 
 together, and if it be not thin enough, ftir in a little new 
 milk or cream. Let it be of a moderate thicknefs, lav a 
 puft-pafte all over the difh, and pour in the ingredients.—• 
 It will take an hour baking. 
 
 Yorkjlme Pudding. 
 
 TAKE four large fpoonsful of flour, and beat it up 
 well with four eggs and a Iktle fait. Then put to them 
 
 three 
 
PIES. 
 
 l 79 
 
 three pints of milk and mix them well together. Butter 
 a dripping-pan, and fet it under beef, mutton, or a loin 
 of veal. When the meat is about half roafted, put in 
 your pudding, and let the fat drip on it. When it is 
 brown at top, cut it into fquare pieces and turn it over; 
 and when the under fide is browned alfo, fend it to table 
 on a dilh. 
 
 CHAP. XV. 
 PIES. 
 
 HERE are feveral things neceffary to be particularly 
 
 X obferved by the cook, in order that her labours and 
 ingenuity under this head may be brought to their proper 
 degree of perfection. One very material confideration 
 mull be, that the heat of the oven is duly proportioned to 
 the nature of the article to be baked. Light pafte requires 
 a moderate oven j if it is too quick, the cruft cannot rife, 
 and will therefore be burned; and if two flow, it will be 
 foddened, and want that delicate light brown it ought to 
 have. Railed pies mull have a quick oven, and be well 
 clofed up, or they will fink in their lides and lofe their 
 proper fliape. Tarts that are iced, fhould be baked in a 
 flow oven, or the icing will become brown before the pafte 
 is properly baked. 
 
 Having made thefe general obfervations refpeCling the 
 baking of pies, we ftiall now direCt the cook how to make 
 the different kinds of pafte, as they muft be proportioned 
 in their qualities according to the refpective articles for 
 which they are to be ufed. 
 
 Puff-Pajle muft be made thus: Take a quarter of a 
 peck of flour, and rub into it a pound of butter very fine. 
 Make it up into a light pafte, with cold water, juft ftiff 
 enough to work it up. Then roll it out about as thick 
 as a crown piece; put a layer of butter all over, then 
 fprinkle on a little flour, double it up, and roll it out 
 again. Double and roll it, with layers of butter, three 
 times, and it will be properly fit for ufe. 
 
 Z 2 
 
 Short 
 
i8o MEAT PIES. 
 
 Short Cruft: Put fix ounces of butter to eight of flour, 
 and work them well together; then mix it up with as 
 little water as pofiible, fo as to have it a ftiffifh pafte; 
 then roll it out thin for ufe. 
 
 A good Pafte for large Pies. Take a peck of flour, 
 and put to it three eggs; then put in half a pound of 
 fuet, and a pound and a half of butter and fuet, and as 
 much of the liquor as will make it a good light cruft.— 
 Work it up well, and roll it out. 
 
 A ftanding Cruft for great Pies. Take a peck of flour 
 and fix pounds of butter boiled in a gallon of water; fkim 
 it off into the flour, and as little of the liquor as you can. 
 Work it up well into a pafte, and then pull it into pieces 
 till it is cold. Then make it up into what form you 
 pleafe. 
 
 Pafte for Tarts. Put an ounce of loaf fugar beat and 
 lifted, to one pound of fine flour. Make it into a ftiff 
 pafte, with a gill of boiling cream, and three ounces of 
 butter. Work it well, and roll it very thin. 
 
 Pafte for Cuftards. To half a pound of flour, put fix 
 ounces of butter, the yolks of two eggs, and three fpoons- 
 ful of cream. Mix them together, and let them ftand a 
 quarter of an hour; then work it up and down, and roll 
 it out very thin. 
 
 SECT. I. 
 
 MEAT PIES. 
 
 Beef Steak Pie. 
 
 TAKE fome rump-fteaks, and beat them with a roll¬ 
 ing-pin; then feafon them with pepper and fait to your 
 palate. Make a good cruft, lay in your Peaks, and then 
 pour in as much water as will half fill the difh. Put on 
 the cruft, fend it to the oven and let it be well baked. 
 
 Mutton Pie. 
 
 T AKE off the fkin and outfide fat of a loin of mut¬ 
 ton, cut it into fteaks, and feafon them well with pepper 
 and fait. Set them into your difh, and pour in as much 
 water as will cover them. Then put on your cruft, and 
 let it be well baked, " Vta! 
 
I 
 
 MEAT PIES. j8i 
 
 Veal Pie. 
 
 CUT a bread of veal into pieces, feafon them with pep¬ 
 per and fait, and lay them in your difh. Boil fix or eight 
 eggs hard, take the yolks only, and put them into different 
 places in the pie, then pour in as much water as will nearly 
 fill the difh, put on the lid, and bake it well. A lamb pic 
 muft be done in the fame manner. 
 
 A rich Veal Pie. 
 
 CUT a loin of veal into {leaks, and feafon them with 
 fait, pepper, nutmeg, and beaten mace. Lay the meat 
 in your difh, with fweetbreads feafoned, and the yolks of 
 fix hard eggs, a pint of oyllers, and half a pint of good 
 gravy. Lay a good puff-pafte round your dilh, half an 
 inch thick, and cover it with a lid of the fame fubftance. 
 Sake it an hour and a quarter in a quick oven. When 
 it comes home, take off the lid, cut it into eight or ten 
 pieces, and ftick them round the infide of the rim of the 
 difh. Cover the meat with flices of lemon, and fend the 
 pie hot to table. 
 
 Lamb or Veal Pies in high Tajie. 
 
 CUT your lamb or veal into fmall pieces, and feafon 
 with pepper, fait, cloves, mace, and nutmeg, beat fine. 
 Make a good puff-pafle cruft, lay it into your dilh, then 
 put in your meat, and ftrew on it fome ftoned raifins and 
 currants clean wafhed, and fome fugar. Then lay on 
 fome forcemeat balls made fweet, and, if in the fummer, 
 fome artichoke bottoms boiled; but, if winter, fcalded 
 grapes. Add to thele fome Spanifli potatoes boiled, and 
 cut into pieces, fome candied citron, candied orange, lemon- 
 peel, and three or four blades of mace. Put butter on the 
 top, clofe up your pie, and bake it. Have ready againft it 
 is done the following compofition: mix the yolks of three 
 eggs with a pint of wine, and ftir them well together over 
 the fire one way, till it is thick. Then take it off, put 
 in fugar enough to fweeten it, and fquecze in the juice of 
 a lemon. Raife the lid of your pie, put this hot into it, 
 clofe it up again, and fend it to table. 
 
 Venijon 
 
182 
 
 MEAT PIES. 
 
 Venifon Pajly. 
 
 TAKE a neck and bread of venifon, bone them, and 
 feafon them well with pepper and fait, put them into a 
 deep pan, with the bed part of a neck of mutton diced 
 and laid over them; pour in a glafs of red wine, put a 
 coarfe pade over it, and bake it two hours in an oven; 
 then lay the venifon in a dilh, pour the gravy over it, and 
 put one pound of butter over it; make a good puff-pade, 
 and lay it near half an inch thick round the edge of the 
 dilh; roll out the lid, which mud be a little thicker than 
 the pade on the edge of the did), and lay it on; then roll 
 out another lid pretty thin, and cut in dowers, leaves, or 
 whatever form you pleafe, and lay it on the lid. If you 
 do not want it, it will keep in the pot that it was baked 
 in eight or ten days ; but let the crud be kept on that the 
 air may not get to it. A bread and dioulder of venifon is 
 the mod proper for a pady. 
 
 Olive Pie, 
 
 CUT fome thin dices from a fillet of veal, rub them 
 over with yolks of eggs, and drew on them a few crumbs 
 of breadj fhrecj a little lemon-peel very dne, and put it 
 on them, with a little grated nutmeg, pepper, and fait j 
 roll them up very tight, and lay them in a pewter difh ; 
 pour over them half a pint of good gravy, put half a 
 pound of butter over it, make a light pade, and lay 
 it round the difh. Roll the lid half an inch thick and lay 
 it on. 
 
 Calf’s-Head Pic, 
 
 BOIL the head till it is tender, and then carefully 
 take od' the deih as whole as you can. Then take out 
 the eyes, and dice the tongue. Make a good puff-pade 
 crud, cover the dilh, and lay in your meat. Throw 
 the tongue over it, and lay the eyes, cut in two, at each 
 corner. Seafon it with a little pepper and fait, pour in 
 half a pint of the liquor it was boiled in, lay on it a thin 
 top crud, and bake it an hour in a quick oven. In the 
 mean time boil the bones of the head in two quarts of 
 liquor; with two or three blades of mace, half a quarter 
 of an ounce of whole pepper, a large onion, and a 
 
 bundle 
 
MEAT PIES. 183 
 
 bundle of fweet herbs. Let it boil till it is reduced to 
 about a pint, then (train it off, and add two fpoonsful of 
 catchup, three of red wine, a fmall piece of butter rolled 
 in flour, and half an ounce of truffles and morels. Sea- 
 fon it to your palate, and boil it. Roll half the brains with 
 fotne fage, then beat them up, and add to them twelve 
 leaves of fage chopped very fine. Then ftir all together 
 and give it a boil. Take the other part of the brains, 
 and beat them with fome of the fage chopped fine, a little 
 lemon-peel minced, and half a fmall nutmeg grated. Beat 
 up with an egg, and fry it in little cakes of fine light 
 brown. Boil fix eggs hard, of which take only the yolks, 
 and when your pie comes home, take off the lid, lay the 
 eggs and cakes over it, and pour in all the fauce. Send 
 it hot to table without the lid. 
 
 Calfs Feet Pie . 
 
 BOIL your calf’s feet in three quarts of water, with 
 three or four blades of mace, and let them boil gently till 
 it is reduced to about a pint and a half. Then take out the 
 feet, (train the liquor and make a good cruft. Cover your 
 difh, then take the fielh from the bones, and put half into 
 it. Strew over it half a pound of currants, clean wafhed 
 and picked, and half a pound of railins (toned. Then 
 lay on the reft of your meats, (1dm the liquor they were 
 boiled in, fweeten it to your fade, and put in half a pint 
 of white wine. Then pour all into the dilb, put on your 
 lid, and bake it an hour and a half. 
 
 Sweetbread Pie, 
 
 LAY a puff-pafte half an inch thick at the bottom o£ 
 a deep difh, and put a force-meat round the fides. Cut 
 fome fweetbreads in pieces, three or four, according to the 
 fize the pie is intended to be made; lay them in firft, then 
 fome artichoke bottoms, cut into four pieces each, then 
 fome cock’s-combs, a few truffles and morels, fome afpa- 
 ragtis tops, and frefh mulbrooms, yolks of eggs boiled 
 hard, and force-meat balls; feafon with pepper and fait. 
 Almoft fill the pie with water, cover it, and bake it two 
 hours. When it comes from the oven, pour in fome rich 
 real gravy, thickened with a very little cream and flour. 
 
 Qhejhirt 
 
184 
 
 MEAT PIES. 
 
 Chejhire Pork Pic. 
 
 TAKE the (kin off a loin of pork, and cut it into 
 (leaks. Seafon them with pepper, fait, and nutmeg, 
 and make a good cruft. Put into your difti a layer of 
 pork, then a layer of pippins, pared and cored, and 
 fiigar fufficient to lweeten it. Then place another layer 
 of pork, and put in half a pint of white wine. Lay fome 
 butter on the top, clofe your pie, and fend it to the oven. 
 If your pie is large, you muft put in a pint of white 
 wine. 
 
 Dcvonjhire Squab Pie. 
 
 COVER your difti with a good cruft, and put at the 
 bottom of it a layer of diced pippins, and then a layer of 
 mutton (leaks, cut from the loin, well feafoned with pep¬ 
 per and fait. Then put another layer of pippins, peel 
 dome onions, (lice them thin, and put a layer of them over 
 the pippins. Then put a layer of mutton, and then pip¬ 
 pins and onions. Pour in a pint of water, clofe up your 
 pic, and fend it to the oven. 
 
 SEC T. II. 
 
 PIES made of POULTRY, &c. 
 
 A plain Goofe Pie. 
 
 QUARTER your goofe, feafon it well with pepper 
 and fait, and lay it in a raifed cruft. Cut half a pound 
 of butter into pieces, and put it in different places on the 
 top; then lay on the lid, and fend it to an oven mode¬ 
 rately heated. 
 
 Another method of making a goofe pie, with materia] 
 improvements, is thus: Take a goofe and a fowl, bone 
 them, and feafon them well; put forcemeat into the fowl, 
 and then put the fowl into the goofe. Lay thefe in a raifed 
 cruft, and fill the corners with a little forcemeat. Put half 
 a pound of butter on the top cut into pieces, cover it, 
 fend it to the oven, and let it be well baked.—This pie 
 may be'eaten either hot or cold, and makes a pretty fide- 
 dilh for fupper. 
 
 4 
 
 Giblei 
 
POULTRY, &c. 185 
 
 Giblet Pie . 
 
 CLEAN two pair of giblets well, and put all but the 
 livers into a faucepan, with two quarts of water, twenty 
 corns of whole pepper, three blades of mace, a bundle of 
 l'weet-herbs, and a large onion. Cover them clofe, and 
 let them (lew very gently till they are tender. Have a 
 good cruft ready, cover your difh, lay at the bottom a 
 fine rump fteak feafoned with pepper and fait, put in your 
 giblets, with the livers, and (train the liquor they were 
 (tewed in ; then feafon it with fait, and pour it into your 
 pie. Put on the lid, and bake it an hour and a half. 
 
 Duck Pie. 
 
 SCALD two ducks and make them very clean ; therl 
 cut off the feet, the pinions, necks, and heads ; take out 
 the gizzards, livers, and hearts, pick all clean, and fcald 
 them. Pick out the fat of the infide, lay a good pufr- 
 pafte cruft all over the difh, feafon the ducks, both infide 
 and out, with pepper and fait, and lay them in the dilh 
 with the giblets at each end properly feafoned. Put in as 
 much water as will nearly fill the pie, lay on the cruft 
 and let it be well baked. 
 
 Pigeon Pie. , 
 
 PICK and clean your pigeons very nicely, and then 
 feafon them with pepper and fait. Put a large piece of 
 frefh butter, with pepper and fait, into each of their 
 bellies. Then cover your difh with a puff-pafte cruft, 
 iay in your pigeons, and put between them the necks, 
 gizzards, livers, pinions, and hearts, with the yolk of a 
 hard egg, and a beef-fteak in the middle. Put as much 
 water as will nearly fill the dilh, lay on the top cruft, and 
 bake it well. 
 
 Chicken Pie. 
 
 SEASON your chickens with pepper, fait, and mace. 
 Put a piece of butter into each of them, and lay them in 
 the difh with their breads upwards. Lay a thin (lice of 
 bacon over them, which will give them an agree ably 
 flavour. Then put in a pint of ftrong gravy, and make 
 a good puff-pafte. Put on die lid, and bake it in a 
 moderately heated oven. 
 
 V. A a Another 
 
1 86 PIES MADE OF 
 
 Another Method, of making a Chicken Pie. 
 
 COVER the bottom of the difh with apuff-pafte, and 
 upon that, round the fide, lay a thin layer of force-meat. 
 Cut two fmall chickens into pieces, feafon them high 
 with pepper and fait; put fome of the pieces into the difh, 
 then a fweethread or two, cut into pieces, and well fea- 
 foned, a few truffles and morels, fome artichoke bottoms 
 cut each into four pieces, yolks of eggs boiled hard, 
 chopped a little, and ftrewed over the top; put in a little 
 water, and cover the pie. When it comes from the 
 oven, pour in a rich gravy, thickened with a little flour 
 and butter. To make the pie ftili richer, you may add 
 frefh mufhrooms, afparagus tops, and cocks-combs. 
 
 Partridge Pie. 
 
 TAKE two brace of partridges, and trufs them in the 
 fame manner as you do. a fowl for boiling. Put fome 
 fhalots into a marble mortar, with fome parfiey cut 
 fmall, the livers of the partridges, and twice the quantity 
 of bacon. Beat thefe well together, and feafon them 
 with pepper, fait, and a blade or two of mace. When 
 thefe are all pounded to a pafte, add to them fome frefh 
 mufhrooms. Raife the cruft for the pie, and cover the 
 bottom of it with the ieafoning; then lay in the par¬ 
 tridges, but no fluffing in them ■, put the remainder of 
 the Ieafoning about the fides, and between the partridges. 
 Mix together fome pepper and fait, a little mace, fome 
 fhalots fhred fine, frefh mufhrooms, and a little bacon, 
 beat,fine in a mortar. Strew this over the partridges, 
 and lay on fome thin flices of bacon. Then put on the 
 lid, and fend it to the oven, and two hours will bake it. 
 When it is done, remove the lid, take out the flices of 
 bacon, and fcum off the fat. Put in a pint of rich veal 
 gravy, fqueeze. in the juice of an orange,, and fend it hot 
 to table. 
 
 \ .. Hare Pie. < < 
 
 GUT your hare into pieces, and feafon it well with 
 pepper, fait, nutmeg and mace ; then put-it into a-jug 
 with* half a. p&bndmf butter, dofe- it : up, fet it in a cdppei' 
 of boiling water, and make a rich forcemeat 1 with a 
 
 quarter 
 
POULTRY, &c~ 187 
 
 quarter of a pound of fcraped bacon, two onions, a glafs 
 of red wine, the crumb of a penny loaf, a little winter 
 favoury, the liver cut fmall, and a little nutmeg. Seafon 
 it high with pepper and fait; mix it well up with the 
 yolks of khree eggs, raife the pie, , and lay the forcemeat 
 in the bottom of the difh. Then put in the hare, with 
 the gravy that,came out of it; lay on the lid, and fend it 
 to the oven. An hour and a half will bake it. 
 
 Rabbit. Pie. 
 
 CUT a couple of young rabbits into quarters; then 
 take a quarter of a pound of bacon, and bruife it to 
 pieces in a marble mortar, with the livers, fome pepper, 
 fait, a little mace, fome parflev cut lmall; famie chives, 
 and a /ew leaves of fweet bafil. When thefe are all 
 beaten fine, make the pafte, and cover the bottom of 
 the pie with the feafoning. Then put in the rabbits, 
 pound fome more bacon in a mortar, and with it fome 
 frefh butter. Cover the rabbits with this, and lay over 
 it fome thin flices of bacon : put on the lid, and fend it 
 to the oven. It will take two hours baking. When it is 
 done, remove the lid, take out the bacon, and fcum of 
 the fat. If there is uot gravy enough in the pie, pour 
 in fome rich mutton or veal gravy boiling hot. 
 
 Another Method of making a Rabbit Pie , and which is 
 particularly done m the County of Salop. 
 
 CUT two rabbits into pieces, with two pounds'of 
 fat pork cut fmall, and feafon both with pepper and fait 
 to your tafte. Then make a good puff-pafte cruft, cover 
 your difh with it, and lay in your rabbits. Mix the 
 pork with them; but take the livers of the rabbits, par¬ 
 boil them, and beat them in a mortar, with the fame 
 quantity of fat bacon, a little fweet herbs, and fome 
 oyfters. Seafon with pepper, laic, andnutmeg, mix it 
 up with the yolk of an egg, and make it into little balls. 
 Scatter them about your pie, with fome artichoke bot¬ 
 toms cut in dices, and fome cocks-conibs, if you have 
 them. Grate a fmall nutmeg over the meat, then pour 
 in half a pint of red wine, and half a pint of water. Clofe 
 your pie, and bake it an hour and a half in a quick but 
 not too fierce an oven. 
 
 Pine 
 
 A a 2 
 
188 FRUIT PIES, &c. 
 
 Fine Patties. 
 
 TAKE any quantity of either turkey, houfe-lamb, 
 or chicken, and flice it with an equal quantity of the fat 
 of lamb, loin of veal, or the infide of a firloin of beef, 
 and a little parfley, thyme, and lemon-peel Hired. Put 
 all into a marble mortar, pound it very fine, and feafon 
 it with fait and white pepper. Make a fine puff-pafte, 
 roll it out into thin fquare fheets, and put the meat in 
 the middle. Cover the patties, clofe them all round, 
 cut the pafte even, wafh them over with the yolk of an 
 egg, and bake them twenty minutes in a quick oven. 
 Have ready a little white gravy, feafoned with pepper, 
 fait, and a little fbalot, thickened up with cream or 
 butter. When the patties come out of the ove% make 
 a hole in the top, and pour in fome gravy j but take care 
 not to put in too much, left it lhould run out at the fides, 
 and fpoil the appearance. 
 
 SECT. Ill, 
 
 FRUIT PIES, fcV, 
 
 Apple Pie. 
 
 MAKE a good pufF-pafte cruft, and put it round the 
 edge of your difh. Pare and quarter your apples, and 
 take out the cores. Then lay a thick row of apples, aud 
 put in half the fugar you intend to ufe for your pie. 
 Mince a little lemon-peel fine, fpread it over the fugar 
 and apples, and fqueeze in a little juice of a lemon: then 
 fcatter a few cloves over it, and Jay on the reft of your 
 apples and fugar, with another ftnall fqueeze of the 
 juice of a lemon. Boil the parings of the apples and 
 cores in fome water, with a blade of mace, till the flavour 
 is extracted; ftrain it, put in a little fugar, and boil it 
 till it is reduced to a fmall quantity: then pour it into 
 your pie, put on your cruft, and fend it to the oven. 
 You may add to the apples a little quince or marmalade, 
 which will greatly enrich the flavour. When the .pie 
 comes from the oven, beat up the yolks of two eggs. 
 
FRUIT PIES. 189 
 
 with half a pint of cream, and a little nutmeg and fugar. 
 Put it over a flow fire, and keep furring it till it is near 
 boiling ; then take off the lid of the pie, and pour it in. 
 Cut the cruft into fmall three corner pieces, and ftick 
 them about the pie.—A pear pie muft be done in the 
 fame manner, only the quince or marmalade muft be 
 omitted. 
 
 Apple Tart. 
 
 SCALD eight or ten large codlins, let them ftand 
 till they are cold, and then take off the lkins. Beat the 
 pulp as fine as poffible with a fpoon: then mix the yolks 
 of fix eggs, and the whites of four. Beat all together 
 very fine, put in lome grated nutmeg, and fweeten it to 
 your tafte. Melt fome good frefh butter, and beat it 
 till it is of the confiftence of fine thick cream. Then 
 make a puff-pafte, and cover a tin patty-pan with it; 
 pour in the ingredients, but do not cover it with the 
 pafte. When you have baked it a quarter of an hour, 
 flip it out of the patty-pan on a difh, and ftrew over it 
 fome fugar finely beaten and lifted. 
 
 Cherry Pie. 
 
 HAVING made a good cruft, lay a little of it round 
 the fides of your difh, and ftrew fugar at the bottom. 
 Then lay in your fruit, and fome fugar at the top. Put 
 on your lid, and bake it in a flack oven. If you mix 
 fome currants with the cherries, it will be a confiderable 
 addition.—-A plumb or goofberry-pie, may be made in 
 the fame manner. 
 
 Mince Pies. 
 
 SHRED three pounds of fuet very fine, and chop 
 it as fmall as poffible; take two pounds of raifins ftoned 
 and chopped very fine, the fame quantity of currants, 
 nicely picked, wafhed, rubbed, and dried at the fire. 
 Pare half a hundred fine pippins, core them, and chop 
 them fmall; take half a pound of fine fugar, and pound 
 it fine, a quarter of an ounce of mace, a quarter of an 
 ounce of cloves, and two large nutmegs, all beat fine; 
 put them all into a large pan, and mix them well toge¬ 
 ther with half a pint of brandy, and half a pint of feck, 
 
 put 
 
190 FRUIT PIES, &c. 
 
 put it down clofe in a (tone pot, and it will keep good 
 three or four months. When you make your pies, take 
 a little difh, fomewhat larger than a foup-plate, lay a 
 very thin cruft all over it; lay a thin layei of meat, and 
 then a layer of citron, cut very thin, then a layer of 
 mince-meat, and a layer of orange-peel cut thin; over 
 that a little meat, fqueeze half the juice of a fine Seville 
 orange or lemon, lay on your cruft, and bake it nicely. 
 Thefe pies eat very fine cold. If you make them in 
 little patties, mix your meat and fweetmeats accordingly. 
 If you choofe meat in your pies, parboil a neat's tongue, 
 peel it, and chop the meat as fine as poftible, and mix 
 with the reft; or two pounds of the infide of a firloin of 
 beef boiled. But when you ufe meat, the quantity of 
 fruit muft'be doubled. 
 
 Another Method of making Mince Pies. 
 
 TAKE a neat’s tongue, and boil it two hours, then 
 ikin it, and chop it exceedingly fmall. Chop very filial] 
 three pounds of beef fuet, three pounds of good baking- 
 apples, four pounds of currants clean walked, picked, 
 and well dried before the fire, a pound of jar raifins 
 ftoned and chopped fmall, and a pound of powder fugar. 
 Mix them all together, with half an ounce of mace, as 
 much nutmeg, a quarter of an ounce of cloves, a quarter 
 of an ounce of cinnamon, and a pint of French brandy. 
 Make a rich puff-pafte, and as you fill up the pie, put in 
 a little candied citron and orange, cut in little pieces. 
 What mince-meat you have to fpare, put clofe down in a 
 pot, and cover it up; but never put any citron or orange 
 to it till you ufe it. 
 
 Orange and Lemon Tarts. 
 
 TAKE fix large oranges or lemons, rub them 
 well with fait, and put them into water, with a 
 handful of fait in it, for two days. Then change them 
 every day with frefh water, without fait for a fortnight. 
 Boil them till they are tender, and then cut them into 
 half-quarters corner-ways as thin as poftible. Take fix 
 pippins pared, cored, and quartered, and put them into 
 a pint of water. Let them boil till they break, then put 
 
FRUIT PIES, &c. igi 
 
 the liquor to your oranges or lemons, half the pulp of 
 the pippins well broken, and a pound of fugar. Boil 
 thefe together a,quarter of an hour, then put it into a pot; 
 and fqueeze into it either the juice of an orange or lemon, 
 according to which of the tarts you intend to make. 
 Two fpoonsful will be fufficient to give a proper flavour 
 to your tart. Put fine puff-pafte, and very thin, into 
 your patty-pans, which muft be lmall and fhallow. 
 Before you put your tarts into the oven, take a feather 
 or brufh, and rub them over with melted butter, and 
 then fift fome double refined fugar over them, which will 
 form a pretty icing, and make them have a pleafing 
 effect on the eye. 
 
 Tart de Moi. 
 
 PUT round your difh a puff-pafte, and then a layer 
 of bifcuit; then a layer of butter and marrow, another 
 of all forts of fweetmeats, or as many as you have, and 
 thus proceed till your difh is full. Then boil a quart 
 of cream, thicken it with eggs, and put in a fpoonful of 
 orange flower-water Sweeten it with fugar to your 
 tafte, and pour it over the whole. Half an hour will 
 bal^e it. 
 
 Artichoke Tie. 
 
 BOIL twelve artichokes, break off the leaves and 
 chokes, and take the bottoms clear from the ftalks. 
 Make a good puff-pafte cruft, and lay a quarter of a 
 pound of frefh butter all over the bottom of your pie. 
 Then lay a row of artichokes, ftrew a little pepper, fait, 
 and beaten mace over them, then another row, ftrew 
 the reft of your fpice over them, and putin a quarter of 
 a pound more butter cut in little bits. Take half an 
 ounce of truffles and morels, and boil them in a quarter 
 of a pint of water. Pour the water into the pie, cut 
 the truffles and morels very fmall, and throw them all 
 over the pie. Pour in a gill of wflite wine, cover your 
 pie, and bake it. When the cruft is done, the pie will 
 be enough. 
 
 Vermicelli Pie. 
 
 SEASON four pigeons with a little pepper and fait, 
 fluff them with a piece of butter, a few crumbs of bread, 
 
 and 
 
igz FISH PIES. 
 
 and a little parfley cut fmall; butter a deep earthen difh 
 well, and then cover the bottom of it with two ounces 
 of vermicelli. Make a puff-pafle, roll it pretty thick, 
 and lay it on the difh, then lay in the pigeons, the 
 breads downwards, put a thick lid on the pie, bake it in 
 a moderate oven. When it is enough, take a difh pro¬ 
 per for it to be fent to table in, and turn the pie on it. 
 The vermicelli will be then on the top, and have a plead¬ 
 ing. effedt. 
 
 SECT. IV. 
 
 FISH PIES. 
 
 Eel Pie. 
 
 WHEN you have ikinned, gutted, and wafhed your 
 eels very clean, cut them into pieces about an inch and 
 a half long. Seafon thorn with pepper, fait, and a little 
 dried fage rubbed fmall. Put them into your difh, with 
 as much water as will juft cover them. Make a good 
 puff-pafte, lay on the lid, and fend your pie to the oven, 
 which mult be quick, but not fo as to burn the cruft. 
 
 Turbot Pie. 
 
 FIRST parboil your turbot, and then feafon it with a 
 little pepper, lalt, cloves, nutmeg, and fweet-herbs cut 
 fine. When you have made your pafte, lay the turbot 
 in your difh, with dome yolks of eggs, and a whole 
 onion which muft be taken out when the pie is baked.— 
 Lay a good deal of frefli butter on the top, put on the 
 lid, and fend it to the oven. 
 
 Soal Pie. 
 
 . COVER your difh with a good cruft ; then boil two 
 pounds of eels till they are tender, pick the flefh from the 
 bones, and put the bones into the liquor in which the eels 
 were boiled, with a blade of mace and a little fait. Boil 
 them till there is only a quarter of a pint of liquor left, 
 and then (train it. Cut the flefh off the eels very fine, 
 and mix with it a little lemon-peel chopped fmall, fait, 
 pepper, and nutmeg, a few crumbs ctf bread grated, 
 
 dome 
 
FISH PIES. 193 
 
 fome parfley cut fine, an anchovy, and a quarter of a 
 pound of butter. Lay this in the bottom of your difh. 
 Cut the flefh from a pair of large foals, and take off the 
 fins, lay it on the feafoning, then pour in the liquor the 
 eels were boiled in, dole up your pie, and fend it to the 
 table. 
 
 Flounder Pie>. 
 
 GUT your flounders, wafh them dean, and then dry 
 them well in a doth. Give them a gentle boil, and then 
 cut the flefh dean from the bones, lay a good cruft over 
 the difh, put a little frefli butter at the bottom, and on 
 that the fifh. Seafon with pepper and fait to your tafte„ 
 Boil the bones in the water the fifh was boiled in, with a 
 fmall piece of horfe-radifb, a little parfley, a bit of 
 lemon-peel, and a cruft of bread. Boil it till there isjuft 
 enough liquor for the pie, then ftrain it, and pour it over 
 the filh. Put on the lid, and fend it to a moderate 
 heated oven. 
 
 Carp Pie. 
 
 SCRAPE off the feales, and then gut and wafh a 
 large carp clean. Take an eel, and boil it till it is almoft 
 tender ; pick off all the meat, and mince it fine, with an 
 equal quantity of crumbs of bread, a few fweet herbs, 
 lemon-peel cut fine, a little pepper, fait, and grated 
 nutmeg; an anchovy, half a pint of oyfters parboiled and 
 chopped fine, and the yolks of three hard eggs cut fmall. 
 Roll it up with a quarter of a pound of butter, and fill 
 the belly of the carp. Make a good cruft, cover the 
 difh, and lay in your fifh. Save the liquor you boiled 
 your eels in, put into it the eel bones, and boil them 
 with a little mace, whole pepper, an onion, fome fweet- 
 herbs, and an anchovy. Boil it till reduced to about 
 half a pint, then ftrain it, and add to it about a quarter 
 of a pint of white wine, and a piece of butter about the 
 fize of a hen’s egg mixed in a very little flour. Boil it 
 up, and pour it into your pie. Put on the lid, and bake 
 it an hour in a quick oven. 
 
 Tench Pie. 
 
 PUT a layer of butter at the bottom of your dilh, and 
 grate in fome nutmeg, with pepper, fait, and mace.— 
 
 V. B b Then 
 
194 FISH PIES. 
 
 Then lay in your tench, cover them with fome butter, 
 and pour in fome red wine with a little water. Then 
 put on the lid, and when it comes from the oven, pour 
 in melted butcer mixed with fome good rich gravy. 
 
 Trout Pie. 
 
 TAKE a brace of trout, and lard them with eels; 
 raife the cruft, and put a layer of frefh butter at the 
 bottom. Then make a forcemeat of trout, mufflrooms, 
 truffles, morels, chives, and frefh butter Seafon them 
 with fait, pepper, and fpice ; mix thefe up with the yolks 
 of two eggs; fluff the trout with it, lay them in the difh, 
 «over them with butter, put on the lid, and fend it to the 
 oven. Have fome good fifh gravy ready, and when the 
 pie is done, raife the cruft, and pour it in. 
 
 Salmon Pie. 
 
 WHEN you have made a good cruft, take a piece of 
 frefh falman, well cleanfed, and feafon it with fait, mace, 
 and nutmeg. Put a piece of butter at the bottom of 
 your difh, and then lay in the falmon. Melt butter in 
 proportion to the fizeofyour pie, and then take a lobfter, 
 boil it, pick out all the flefh, chop it fmall, bruife the 
 body, and mix it well with the butter. Pour it over 
 your falmon, put on the lid, and let it be well baked. 
 
 Herring Pie. 
 
 HAVING fcaled, gutted, and waffled your herrings 
 clean, cut oft' their heads, fins, and tails. Make a good 
 cruft, cover your difh, and feafon your herrings with 
 beaten mace, pepper, and fair. Put a little butter in the 
 the bottom of your difh, and then the herrings. Over 
 thefe put fome apples and onions diced very thin. Put 
 fome butter on the top, then pour in a little water, lay 
 on the lid, fend it to the oven, and let it be well baked. 
 
 Lobjhr Pie. 
 
 BOIL two or three lobfters, take the meat out of the 
 tails and cut it into different pieces. Then take out all 
 the fpawn, and the meat of the claws; beat it well in a 
 mortar, ai d feafon it with pepper, fait, two fpoonsful of 
 vinegar, ai d a little anchovy liquor. Melt half a pound 
 
PANCAKES,. etc. 195 
 
 of frefh butter, and dir all together, with the crumbs of 
 a halfpenny roll rubbed through a fine cullender, and the 
 yoiks of ten eggs. Put a fine puff pade over your did), 
 lay in the tails fird, and the red of the meat on them. 
 Put on the lid, and bake it in a flow oven. 
 
 -- . . . ... 
 
 • CHAP. XVI. 
 
 PANCAKES AND FRITTERS. 
 
 T HE principal things to be obferved, of a general 
 nature, in dreffing thefe articles is, that your pan 
 be thoroughly clean, that you fry them in nice fweet lard, 
 or frefh butter, of a light brown colour, and that the 
 greafe is thoroughly drained from them before you carry 
 them to table. 
 
 Pancakes. 
 
 BEAT fix or eight eggs well together, leaving out 
 half the whites, and dir them into a quart of milk. Mix 
 your flour firlt with a little of the milk, and then add the 
 red by degrees. Put in two lpoonsfulof beaten ginger, 
 a glals of brandy, and a little fait, and dir all well together. 
 Put a piece of butter into your dew-pan, and then pour in 
 a ladleful of batter, which will make a pancake, moving 
 the pan round, that the batter may fpread all over it.—- 
 Shake the pan, and when you think one fide is enough, 
 turn it, and when both fides are done, lay it in a difh be¬ 
 fore the fire; and in like manner do the red. Before 
 you take them out of the pan, raife it a little, that they 
 may drain, and be quite clear of greafe. When you fend 
 them to table, drew a little fosar over them. 
 
 Cream Pancakes. 
 
 MIX the yolks of two eggs with half a pint of 
 cream, two ounces of fugar, and a little beaten cinna¬ 
 mon, mace, and nutmeg Rub your pan with lard, and 
 fry them as thin as poflible. Grate over them fome fine 
 fugar. 
 
 B b z 
 
 Rice 
 
ig 6 PANCAKES, &c. 
 
 Rice Pancakes. 
 
 'FAKE three fpoonsful of flour of rice, and a quart 
 of cream. Set it on a flow fire, and keep ftirring it till 
 it is as thick as pap. Pour into it half a pound of but¬ 
 ter, and a nutmeg grated. Then pour it into an earthen 
 pan, and when it is cold, ftir in three or four fpoonsful 
 of flour, a little fait, fome fugar, and nine eggs well 
 beaten. Mix all well together* and fry them nicely. 
 When cream is not to be had, you muft ufe new milk, 
 but in that cafe you muft add a lpoonful more of the 
 flour of rice. 
 
 Pink-coloured Pancakes: 
 
 BOIL a large beet-root till it is tender, and then 
 beat it fine in a marble mortar. Add the yolks of four 
 eggs, two fpoonsful of flour, and three fpoonsful of 
 cream. Sweeten it to your tafte, grate in half a nut¬ 
 meg, and add a glafs of brandy. Mix all well toge¬ 
 ther, and fry your pancakes in butter. Garnifh them 
 with green fvveetbreads, preferved apricots, or green 
 fprigs of myrtle.—This makes a pretty corner-difh either 
 for dinner or fupper, 
 
 Clary Pancakes. 
 
 TAKE three eggs, three fpoonsful of fine flour, and 
 a little fait. Beat them well together, and mix them 
 with a pint of milk. Put lard into your pan, and when 
 it is hot, pour in your batter as thin as polTible, then lay 
 in fome clary leaves walked and dried, and pour a little 
 more batter thin over them. Fry them a nice brown, 
 and ferve them up hot. 
 
 Plain Fritters. 
 
 QRATE the crumb of a penny loaf, and put it into 
 a pint of milk; mix it very fmooth, and, when cold, add 
 the yolks of five eggs, three ounces of fifted fugar, and 
 fome grated nutmeg. Fry them in hog’s-lard, and when 
 done, pour melted butter, wine, and fugar, into the difh, 
 
 Cujlard Fritters. 
 
 BEAT up the yolks of eight eggs with one fpoonful 
 of flour, half a nutmeg, a little fait, and a glafs of 
 
 brandy, 
 
FRITTERS. 197 
 
 brandy, add a pint of cream, fweeten it, and bake it in 
 a fmall difh. When cold cut it into quarters, and dip 
 them in batter made of haif a pint of cream, a quarter 
 of a pint of milk, four eggs, a little flour, and a little 
 ginger grated. Fry them in a good lard or dripping, and 
 when done, ftrew over them fome grated fugar. 
 
 Apple Fritters. 
 
 TAKE fome of the largeft apples you can get, pare 
 and core them, and then cut them into round flices. 
 Take half a pint of ale and two eggs, and beat in as 
 much flour as will make it rather thicker than a common 
 pudding, with nutmeg and fugar to your tafte. Let it 
 ftand three or four minutes to rife. Dip your flices of 
 apple into the batter, fry them crifp, and ferve them up 
 with fugar grated over them, and wine fauce in a boat. 
 
 Water Fritters. 
 
 TAKE five or fix fpoonsful of flour, a little fait, a 
 quart of water, eight eggs well beat up, a glafs of brandy, 
 and mix them all well together. The longer they are 
 made before drefled, the better. Juft before you do 
 them, melt half a pound of butter, and beat it well in. 
 Fry them in hog’s lard. 
 
 White Fritters. 
 
 TAKE two ounces of rice, wafh it clean in water, 
 and dry it before the fire. Then beat it very fine in a 
 mortar, and fift it through a lawn fieve. Put itpnto a 
 faucepan, juft wet it with milk, and when it is tho¬ 
 roughly moiftened add to it another pint of milk. Set 
 the whole over a ftove,t or very flow fire, arid take care 
 to keep it always moving. Put in a little ginger, and 
 fome candied lemon-peel grated. Keep it over the fire, 
 till it is come almoft to the thicknefs of a fine pafte. 
 When it is quite cold fpread it out with a rolling-pin, 
 and cut it into little pieces, taking care they do not flick 
 to each other. Flour your hands, roll up your fritters 
 handfomely, and fry them. When done, ftrew on them 
 fome fugar, and pour over them a little orange flower 
 water, 
 
 Hafy 
 
ig8 FRITTERS. 
 
 Hajly Fritters. 
 
 PUT fome butter into a ftew-pan, and let it heat. 
 Take half a pint of good ale, and ftir into it by degrees 
 a little flour. Put in a few currants, or chopped apples, 
 beat them up quick, and drop a large fpoonful at a time 
 all over the pan. Take care they do not flick together; 
 turn them with an egg-(lice, and when they are of a fine 
 brown, lay them on adifh, ftrew fome fugar over them, 
 and ferve them hot to table. 
 
 Fritters Royal. 
 
 PUT a quart of new milk into a faucepan, and when 
 it begins to boil, pour in a pint of fack, or wine. Then 
 take it off, let it ftand five or fix minutes, fkim off the 
 curd, and put it into a bafon. Beat it up well with fix 
 eggs, and feafon it with nutmeg. Then beat it with 
 a whilk, and add flour fufficient to give it the ufual 
 thicknefs of batter; put in fome fugar, and fry them 
 quick. 
 
 Tanfcy Fritters. 
 
 POUR a pint of boiling milk on the crumb of a 
 penny-loab lef: it ftand an hour, and then put as much 
 juice of tanfev to it as will give it a flavour. Add to it a 
 little of the juice of fpinach, in order to make it green. 
 Put to it a fpoonful of Ratafia-water, or brandy, fweeten 
 it to your tafte, grate the rind of half a lemon, beat the 
 yolks of four eggs, and mix them all together. Put 
 them in a ftew-pan, with a quarter of a pound of butter; 
 ftir it over a flow fire, till it is quite thick; take it off, 
 and let it ftand two or three hours j then drop a fpoonful 
 at a time into a pan of boiling lard; and when done, 
 grate fugar over them, and ferve wineTauce in a boat. 
 Garnifh the dilh with dices of orange. 
 
 Rice Fritters. 
 
 BOIL a quarter of a pound of rice in milk till it is 
 pretty thick ; then mix it with a pint of cream, four eggs, 
 feme fugar, cinnamon and nutmeg, fix ounces of cur¬ 
 rants wafhed and picked, a little fait, and as much flour 
 as will make it a thick batter. Fry them in little cakes 
 
 in 
 
FRITTERS. 199 
 
 in boiling lard, and when done, fend them up with white 
 fugar and butter. 
 
 Chicken Fritters. 
 
 PUT on a ftew-pan with fome new milk, and as 
 much frour of rice as will be neceffary to make it of a 
 tolerable thicknefs. Beat three or four eggs, the yolks 
 and whites together, and mix them well with the rice 
 and milk. Add to them a pint of rich cream, let it over 
 a Hove, and ftir it well. Put in fome powdered fugar* 
 fome candied lemon-peel cut fmall, and fome freGi¬ 
 grated lemon-peel. Take all the white meat from a 
 roafted chicken, puli it into fmall llireds, put it to the 
 rdt of the ingredients, and ftir it all together. Then 
 take it oft', and it will be a very rich pafte. Roll it out 
 cut it into fmall fritters, and fry them in boiling lard. 
 Strew the bottom of the difh with fugar finely powdered. 
 Put in the fritters, and fhake fome fugar over them. 
 
 Bilboquet Fritters . 
 
 BREAK five eggs into two handsful of fine flour, 
 and put milk enough to make it work well together. 
 Then put in fome fait, and work it again. When it is 
 well made, put in a tea-fpoonful of powder of cinna¬ 
 mon, the fam® quantity of lemon-peel grated, and half 
 an ounce of candied citron cut very fmall. Put on a 
 ftew-pan, rub it over with butter, and put in the pafte. 
 Set it over a very flow fire, and let it be done gently, 
 without flicking to the bottom or fides of the pan. 
 When it is in a manner baked, take it out, and lay it on 
 a difh. Set on a ftew-pan with a large quantity of lardf 
 when it bods, cut the pafte the fize of a finger, and then 
 cut it acrofs at each end, which will rife 2nd be hollow, 
 and have a very good eftecft. Put them into the boiling 
 lard; but great care muft be taken in frying them, as 
 they rife fo much. When they are done, fift fome fugar 
 on a warm difh, lay on the fritters, and lift fome more 
 fugar over them. 
 
 Strawberry Fritters. 
 
 MAKE a batter with flour, a fpoonful of fweet oil, 
 another of white wine, a little rafped lemon-peel, and 
 3 ' the 
 
200 FRITTERS* 
 
 the whites of two or three eggs; make it pretty foft, juft 
 fit to drop with a fpoon. Mix fome large ftrawberries 
 with it and drop them with a fpoon into the hot fritters. 
 When of a good colour, take them out, and drain them 
 on a fieve. When done, drew fome fugar over them, or 
 glaze them, and ferve them to table. 
 
 Rafpberry Fritters. 
 
 GRATE the crumb of a French roll, or two Naples 
 bifcuits, and put to it a pint of boiling cream. When 
 cold, add to it the yolks of four eggs well beat up. 
 Mix all well together with fome rafpberry juice; drop 
 them into a pan of boiling lard in very fmall quantities. 
 When done itick them with blanched almonds fliced. 
 
 Currant Fritters. 
 
 T AKE half a pint of ale that is not bitter, and ftir 
 into it as much flour as will make it pretty thick with a 
 few currants. Beat it up quick, have the lard boiling, 
 and put a large fpoonful at a time into the pan. 
 
 German Fritters. 
 
 TAKE fome well tailed crifp apples, pare, quarter, 
 and core them take the core quite out, and cut them 
 into round pieces. Put into a ftew-pan a quarter of a 
 pint of French brandy, a table fpoonful of fine fugar 
 pounded, and a little cinnamon. Put the apples into this 
 liquor, and fet them over a gentle fire, ftirring them 
 often, but not to break them. Set on a ftew-pan with 
 fome lard. When it boils drain the apples, dip them in 
 fome fine flour, and put them into the pan. Stew fome 
 fugar over the difh, and fet it on the fire lay in the 
 fritters, ftrew a little fugar over them, and glaze them 
 over with a red-hot falamander. 
 
 Almond Fraze. 
 
 STEEP a pound of Jordan almonds blanched in a 
 pint of cream, ten yolks of eggs, and four whites. 
 Then take out the almonds, and pound them fine in a 
 mortar mix them again in the cream and eggs, and put 
 in fome fugar, and grated white bread. Stir them all 
 together, put fome frefh butter into the pan, and as foon 
 as it is hot, pour in the batter, ftirring it in the pan till it 
 
TARTS, &c. 2oi 
 
 is of a good thicknefs. When enough, turn it into a 
 difh, and throw fugar over it* 
 
 CHAP. XVII. 
 
 TARTS AND PUFFS . 
 
 W E have already given directions for making pufF- 
 pafte for tarts, as alfo the making of Tarts as well 
 as Pies, in the commencement of the fifteenth chapter. 
 We have, therefore, here to treat only of thole of a 
 fmaller and more delicate kind, concerning which the 
 following general obfervations are necefFary. 
 
 If you ufe tin patties to bake it, butter the bottoms, 
 and then put on a very thin bit of cruft, otherwife you 
 will not be able to take them out; but if you bake them 
 in glafs or china, you need only ufe an upper cruft. Put 
 fome fine fugar at the bottom, then lay in your fruit, 
 ftrew more fugar at top, cover them, and bake them in 
 a flack oven. Currants and rafberries make an exceed¬ 
 ing good tart, and require little baking. 
 
 Apples and pears intended for tarts muft be managed 
 thus: cut them into quarters, and take out the cores, 
 then cut the quarters acrofs, and put them into a fauce- 
 pan, with as much water as will barely cover them, and 
 let then fimmer on a flow fire till the fruit is tender. Put 
 a good piece of lemon-peel into the water with the fruit, 
 and then have your patties ready. Lay fine fugar at 
 bottom, then your fruit, and a little fugar at top. Pour 
 over each tart one tea-fpoonful of lemon-juice, and three 
 of the liquor they were boiled in ; then put on your lid, 
 and bake them In a flack oven. Apricot tarts may be 
 made in the fame manner, only that you muft not put in 
 any lemon juice. • 
 
 Preferved fruit requires very little baking, and that 
 which is very high preierved, fhould not be baked at all. 
 In this cale, the cruft fbouid be firfl baked upon a tin the 
 lize of the intended tart; cut it with a marking-iron, and 
 ■when cold, take it off, and lay it on the fruit. 
 
 VI. C c SEC T. 
 
( 202 ) 
 
 SECT. I. 
 
 DIFFERENT KINDS of TARTS. 
 
 Rajberry Tart. 
 
 ROLL out fome thin pufif-pafte, and lay it in a patty¬ 
 pan ; then put in fome rafberries, and drew over them 
 
 fome very fine fugar. Put on the lid, and bake it.-- 
 
 Then cut it open, and put in half a pint of cream, the 
 yolks of two or three eggs well beaten, and a little fugar. 
 Give it another heat in the oven, and it will be fit for ufe. 
 
 D. ied Almond Tarts. 
 
 BLANCH fome almonds, and beat them very fine in 
 a mortar, with a little white wine and fome fugar, fome 
 grated bread, a little nutmeg, fome cream, and a little 
 juice of fpinach, to give them a green colour. Bake it 
 in a gentle oven, and when done, thicken in with candied 
 orange, or citron. 
 
 Green Almond Tarts. 
 
 GATHER fome almonds off the tree before they 
 begin to fhell, ferape oft the down, and put them into a 
 pan with fome cold fpring water. Then put them into a 
 fkillet with more fpring water, fet it on a fiow fire, and 
 let it remain till it juft fimmers. Change the water twice, 
 and let them remain in thelaft till they begin to be tender. 
 Then take them out, and dry them well in a cloth: 
 Make a fyrup with double-refined fugar, put them into 
 it, and let them fimmer a fhort time. Do the fame the 
 next day, put them into a ftone jar, and cover them very 
 clofe, for if the leaft air comes to them, they will turn 
 black. The yellower they are before they are taken out 
 of the water, the greener they will be after they are 
 done. Put them into your cruft, cover them with fyrup, 
 lay on the lid, and bake them in a moderate oven. 
 
 Angelica Tarts. 
 
 PARE and core fome golden pippins, or nonpareils; 
 then the ftalks of angelica, peel them, and cut them 
 
 into 
 
TART S, &c. 203 
 
 into fmall pieces j apples and angelica, of each an equal 
 quantity. Boil the apples in juft water enough to cover 
 them, with lemon-peel and fine fugur. Do them very 
 gently till they become a thin fyrup, and then drain it 
 off. Put it on the fire with the angelica in it, and let it 
 boil ten minutes. Make a puff-pafte, lay it at the bot¬ 
 tom of the tin, and then a layer of apples, and a layer 
 of angelica, till it is full. Pour in fome fyrup, put on 
 the lid, and fend it to a very moderate oven. 
 
 Rhubarb Tarts. 
 
 TAKE the ftalks of rhubarb that grows in a garden, 
 peel them, and cut them into fmall pieces. Then do it 
 in every refpect the fame as a goofeberry tart. 
 
 Spinach Tarts. 
 
 SCi\LD fome fpinach in boiling water, and then 
 drain it quite dry. Chop it, and flew it in fome butter 
 and cream, with a very little fair, fome fugar, fome bits 
 of citron, and a very little orange flower water. Put it 
 into very fine puff-pafte, and let it be baked in a mode¬ 
 rate oven. 
 
 Petit Patties. 
 
 MAKE a fhort cruft, and roll it thick, take a piece 
 of veal, and an equal quantity of bacon and beef fuet. 
 Shred them all very fine, feafon them with pepper and 
 fait, and a little fweet-herbs. Put them into a ftew-pan, 
 and keep turning them about, with a few mulhrooms 
 chopped lmall, for eight or ten minutes. Then fill your 
 patties, and cover them with cruft. Colour them with 
 the yolk of an egg, and bake them.—Thefe make a 
 very pretty garnilih, and give a handfome appearance to 
 a large dilh. 
 
 Orange Tarts. 
 
 GRATE a little of the outfide rind of a Seville 
 orange; fqueeze the juice of it into a difh, throw the 
 peels into water, and change it often for four days. 
 Then fet a fauce-pan of water on the fire, and when it 
 boils put in the oranges; but mind to change the water 
 twice to take out the bitternefs. When they are tender, 
 
 C c 2 wipe 
 
204 TARTS, &c. 
 
 wipe them well, and beat them in a mortar till they are 
 fine. Then take their weight in double-refined fugar, 
 boil it into a fyrup, and fcum it very clean. Put in the 
 pulp, and boil all together till it is clear. Let it (land till 
 cold, then put it into the tarts, and fqueeze in the juice. 
 Bake them in a quick oven. 
 
 Chocolate Tarts, 
 
 RASP a quarter of a pound of chocolate, and a flick 
 of cinnamon, and add to them fome frefh lemon-peel 
 grated, a little fait, and fome fugar. Then take two 
 fpoonsful of fine flour, and the yolks of fix eggs, well 
 beaten and mixed with fome milk. Put all thefe into a 
 ftewpan, and let them be a little time over the fire. Then 
 take it off, put in a little lemon-peel cut fmall, and let 
 
 fland till it is cold. Beat up enough of the whites of 
 eggs to cover it, and put it into puff-pafte. When it is 
 baked, fift fome fugar over it, and glaze it with a fala- 
 mander, 
 
 SECT. II. 
 
 PUFFS, &c. 
 
 Sugar Puff's. 
 
 BEAT up the whites of ten eggs till they rife to a 
 high froth, and then put them into a marble mortar, 
 with as much double-refined fugar as will make it thick. 
 Then rub it well round the mortar, put in a few car- 
 raway feeds, and take a fheet of wafers, and lay it on as 
 broad as a fix-pence, and as high as you can. Put them 
 into a moderately heated oven for about a quarter of an 
 hour, and they will have a very white and delicate ap¬ 
 pearance. 
 
 Lemon Puffs. 
 
 TAKE a pound of double-refined fugar, bruife it, 
 and fift it through a fine fieve. Put it into a bowl, with 
 the juice of two lemons, and mix them together. Then 
 beat the white of an egg to a very high froth, put it into 
 your bowl, beat it half an hour, and then put in three 
 
 eggs* 
 
PUFFS, &c. 205 
 
 eggs, with two rinds of lemons grated. Mix it well up, 
 and throw- fugar on your papers, drop on the puffs in 
 frnall drops, and bake them in a moderately heated oven. 
 
 Almond Puffs. 
 
 TAKE two ounces of fweet almonds, blanch them, 
 and beat them very fine with orange-flower Water. Beat 
 up the whites of three eggs to a very high froth, and 
 then ftrew in a little fifted fugar. Mix your almonds 
 with the fugar and eggs, and then add more fugar till it 
 is as thick as pafte. Lay it in cakes, and bake them in 
 a flack oven on paper. 
 
 Chocolate Puffs. 
 
 BEAT and fift half a pound of double-refined fugar, 
 fcrape into it an ounce of chocolate very fine, and mix 
 them together. Beat up the white of an egg to a very 
 high froth, and ftrew into it your fugar and chocolate. 
 Keep beating it till it is as thick as pafte, then fugar your 
 paper, drop them on about the fize of a fix-pence, and 
 bake them in a very flow oven. 
 
 Card Puff's. 
 
 PUT a little rennet into two quarts of milk, and 
 when it is broken, put it into a coarfe cloth to drain. 
 Then rub the curd through a hair fieve, and put to it 
 four ounces of butter, ten ounces of bread, half a nut¬ 
 meg, a lemon-peel grated, and a fpoonful of wine. 
 Sweeten with fugar to your tafie, rub your cups with 
 butter, and put them into the oven for about half an 
 hour, 
 
 Wafers. 
 
 TAKE a fpoonful of orange flower-water, two fpoons- 
 ful of flour, two of fugar, and the fame of cream. Beat 
 them well together for half an hour j then make your 
 wafer tongs hot, and pour a little of your batter in to 
 cover your irons. Bake them on a' ftove fire, and as 
 they are baking, roll them round a flick like a fpiggot. 
 When they are cold they will be very crifp, and are 
 proper to be eat either with jellies or tea. 
 
 CHAP, 
 
( 206 ) 
 
 CHAP. XVIII. 
 
 CHEESECAKES AND CUSTARDS. 
 
 SEC T. I. 
 CHEESECAKES. 
 
 T HE fhorter time any cheefecakes are made, before 
 put into the oven, the better; but more particu¬ 
 larly almond, or lemon cheefecakes, as (landing long 
 will make them grow oily, and give them a difagreeable 
 appearance. Particular attention muft likewife be paid 
 to the heat of the oven, which muft be moderate; for 
 if it is too hot, they will be fcorched, and confequently 
 their beauty fpoiled; and, if too (lack, they will look 
 black and heavy. 
 
 Common Cheefecakes. 
 
 PUT a fpoonful of rennet into a quart of new milk, 
 and fet it near the fire. When the milk is blood-warm, 
 and broken, drain the curd through a coarfe iievc. Now 
 and then break the curd gently with your fingers, and 
 rub into it a quarter of a pound of butter, the fame 
 quantity of fugar, a nutmeg, and two Naples bifcuits 
 grated • the yolks of four eggs, and the white of one, 
 with an ounce of almonds Well beaten with two lpoonsful 
 of rofe-water, and the fame of fack. Then clean and 
 wafti fix ounces of currants, and put them into the curd. 
 Mix all well together, fill your patty pans, and fend 
 them to a moderate oven. 
 
 Fine Cheefecakes. 
 
 PUT a pint of cream into a faucepan over the fire, 
 and when it is warm, add to it five quarts of milk, im¬ 
 mediately taken from the cow. Then put to it lome 
 rennet, give it a ftir about, and when it is turned, put 
 the curd into a linen cloth or bag. Let it drain well 
 away from the whey, but do not fqueeze it too much.— 
 Then put it into a mortar, and pound it as fine as butter. 
 
CHEESECAKES. 207 
 
 Put to it half a pound of fweet-almonds blanched, and 
 half a pound of macaroons, both beat exceeding fine, but 
 
 if you have no macaroons, Naples bifcuits will do.- 
 
 Then add the yolks of nine eggs well beaten up, a grated 
 nutmeg, two perfumed plums difiolved in rofe, or orange 
 flower water, and half a pound of fine fugar. Mix all 
 well together, then melt a pound and a quarter of butter, 
 and ftir it well in. Then make a pufF-pafte in this man¬ 
 ner: Take a pound of fine flour, wet it with cold water, 
 roll it out, put into it by degrees a pound of frefh butter, 
 and fhake a little flour on each coat as you roll it. Them 
 proceed to finifh your bufinefs as before directed, and 
 fend them to the oven. If you diflike perfumed plumbs, 
 you may omit them; and, for variety, when you make 
 them of macaroons, put in as much tindture of faftron, 
 as will give them a high colour, but no currants. Thefe 
 may be called faffron cheefecakes. 
 
 B?'ead Cheefecakes. 
 
 SLICE a penny loaf as thin as poflible, then pour on 
 it a pint of boiling cream, and let it ftand two hours.— 
 Then take eight eggs, half a pound of butter, and a nut¬ 
 meg grated. Beat them well together, and mix them 
 into the cream and bread, with half a pound of currants 
 well wafned and dried, and a fpoonful ot white wine or 
 brandy. Bake them in patty-pans, or raifed cruft. 
 
 Rice Cheefecakes. 
 
 BOIL four ounces of rice till it is tender, and then put 
 it into a fieve to drain. Mix with it four eggs well beaten 
 up, half a pound of butter, half a pint of cream, fix 
 ounces of fugar, a nutmeg grated, and a glafs of brandy 
 or ratafie water. Beat them all well together, then put 
 them into raifed crufts, and bake them in a moderate 
 oven. 
 
 Almond Cheefecakes. 
 
 TAKE four ounces of fweet almonds, blanch them, 
 and put them into cold water; then beat them in a mar¬ 
 ble mortar, or wooden bowl, with fome rofe-water.— 
 
 Put to it four ounces of fugar, and the yolks of four eggs 
 
 « beat 
 
208 cheesecakes. 
 
 beat fine. Work it in the mortar, or bowl, till it be¬ 
 comes white and frothy, and then make a rich puff-pafte 
 as follows : Take half a pound of flour, a quarter of a 
 pound of butter, rub a little of the butter into the flour, 
 mix it ftiff with a little cold water, and then roll your 
 pafte ftraight out. Strew on a little flour, and lay over 
 it, in thin bits, one third of your butter; throw a little 
 more flour over the butter, and do the like three diffe¬ 
 rent times. Then put the pafte into your tins, fill them, 
 grate fugar over them, and bake them in a gentle oven. 
 
 Or you may make Almond Cheefecakes thus: 
 
 TAKE four ounces of almonds, blanch them, and beat 
 them with a little orange flower water; add the yolks of 
 eight eggs, the rind of a large lemon grated, half a 
 pound of melted butter, and fugar to your tafte ; lay a 
 thin puff-pafte at the bottom of your tins, and little flips 
 acrofs. Add about half a dozen bicter almonds. 
 
 Lemon Cheefecakes. 
 
 BOIL the peelings of two large lemons till they are 
 tender; then pound them well in a mortar, with a quar¬ 
 ter of a pound of loaf fugar, the yolks of fix eggs, half a 
 pound of frefh butter, and a little curd beat fine. Pound 
 and mix all together, lay a puff-pafte in your patty-pans, 
 fill them half full and bake them. 
 
 Orange cheefecakes muft be done the fame way ; but 
 you muft boil the peel in two or three waters to deprive it 
 of its bitter tafte. 
 
 Citron Cheefecakes. 
 
 BEAT the yolks of four eggs, and mix them with a 
 quart of boiled cream. When it is cold, fet it on the 
 fire, and let it boil till it curds. Blanch fome almonds, 
 beat them with orange flower water, and put them into 
 cream, with a few Naples bifcuits, and green citron 
 fhred fine. Sweeten it to your tafte, and bake them in 
 cups. 
 
 SECT. 
 
( 2°9 ) 
 
 SECT. If. 
 
 CUSTARDS. 
 
 IN making of cuftards, the greateft care mud be 
 taken that your pan be well tinned; and always remem¬ 
 ber to put a fpoonful of water into it, to prevent your 
 ingredients (ticking to the bottom. 
 
 Plain Cujlards . 
 
 PUT a quart of good cream over a flow fire, with a 
 little cinnamon, and four ounces of fugar. When it has 
 boiled, take it off the fire, beat the yolks of eight eggs, 
 and put to them a fpoonful of orange flower-water, to 
 prevent the cream from cracking. Stir them in by de¬ 
 grees as your cream cools, put the pan over a very flow 
 fire, ftir it carefully one way till it is almoft boiling, and 
 then pour it into cups. 
 
 Or you may make them in this Manner: 
 
 TAKE a quart of new milk, fweeten to your tafte, 
 beat up well the yolks of eight eggs and the whites of 
 four. Stir them into the milk, and bake it in china 
 bafons. Or put them into a deep china difli, and pour 
 boiling water round them, till the water is better than 
 half way up their fides ; but take care the water does not 
 boil too fall, left it fhouid get into your cups, and fpoil 
 your cuftards. 
 
 Baked Cujlard. 
 
 BOIL a pint of cream with fome mace, and cinna¬ 
 mon, and when it is cold, take four yolks and two whites 
 of eggs, a little rofe and orange flower water and fack, 
 and nutmeg and fugar to your palate. Mix them well 
 together, and bake it in cups. 
 
 Rice Cujlards. 
 
 PUT a blade of mace and a quartered nutmeg into 
 a quart of cream boil it, then ftrain it, and’ add to it 
 fome whole rice boiled, and a little brandy. Sweeten it 
 to your palate, ftir it over the fire till it thickens, and 
 
 VI, D d ferve 
 
210 CUSTARDS, &e. 
 
 ferve it up in cups, or a difh. It may be ufed either hot 
 or cold. 
 
 .Almond Cujlards. 
 
 TAKE a quarter of a pound of almonds, blanch and 
 beat them very fine, and then put them into a pint of 
 cream, with two fpoonsful of rofe-water. Sweeten it to 
 your palate, beat up the yolks of four eggs very fine, and 
 put it in. Stir all together one way over the fire till it is 
 thick, and then pour it into cups. 
 
 Lemon Cujlards. 
 
 TAKE half a pound of double-refined fugar, the 
 juice of two lemons, the rind of one pared very thin, the 
 inner-rind of one boiled tender and rubbed through a 
 fieve, and a pint of white wine. Let them boil for fome 
 time, then take out the peel and a little of the liquor, 
 and let it to cool. Pour the reft into the difh you intend 
 for it, beat four yolks and two whites of eggs, and mix 
 them with your cool liquor. Strain them into your difh, 
 ftir them well up together, and fet them on a flow fire in 
 boiling water. When it is enough, grate the rind of a 
 lemon on the top, and brown it over with a hot falaman- 
 der.' This may be eaten either hot or cold. 
 
 Orange Cujlards. 
 
 BOIL very tender the rind of half a Seville orange, 
 and then beat it in a mortar till it is very fine. Put to it 
 afpoonful of the beft brandy, the juice of a Seville orange, 
 four ounces of loaf fugar, and the yolks of four eggs. 
 Peat them all well together for ten minutes, and then 
 pour in by degrees a point of boiling cream. Keep beat¬ 
 ing them till they are cold, then put them in cuftard 
 cups, and fet them in a difh of hot water. Let them 
 ftand till they are fet, then take them out, and flick 
 preferved orange on the top. Thefe, like the forme r , 
 may be fervtd up either hot or cold. 
 
 Bee ft Cuftard. 
 
 SET a pint of beeft over the fire, with a little cin¬ 
 namon, and three bay-leaves, and let it be boiling hot. 
 Then take it off, and have ready mixed a fpoonful of 
 
 flour, 
 
CAKES, &c. 211 
 
 flour, and the fame of thick cream. Pour-the hotbeeft 
 upon it by degrees, mix it well together, and fweecen it to 
 your tafte. You may bake it either in crufts or cups. 
 
 CHAP. XIX. 
 
 CAKES , BISCUITS , &c. 
 
 O NE very material matter to be attended to in mak¬ 
 ing thefe articles is, that all your ingredients are 
 ready at the time you are going to make them, and that 
 you do not leave them till your bufinefs is done; but be 
 particularly obfervant with refpect to the eggs when 
 beaten up, which, if left at any time, muft be again beaten, 
 and by that means your cake will not be fo light as it 
 otherwife would and ought to be. If you ufe butter to 
 your cakes, be careful in beating it to a fine cream before 
 you mix the fugar with it. Cakes made with rice, feeds, 
 or plumbs, are beft baked with wooden garths, as thereby 
 the heat will penetrate into the middle, which will not be 
 the cafe if baked in pots or tins. The heat of the oven 
 muft be proportioned to the fize of the cake. 
 
 A good Common Cake. 
 
 TAKE fix ounces of ground rice, and the fame quan¬ 
 tity of flour, the yolks and whites of nine eggs, half a 
 pound of lump-fugar, pounded and fifted, and half an 
 ounce of carraway-leeds. Mix thefe well together, and 
 bake it an hour in a quick oven. 
 
 A rich Seed Cake. 
 
 TAKE a pound of flour well dried, a pound of but¬ 
 ter, a pound of loaf-fugar, beat and fifted, eight eggs, 
 two ounces of carraway-leeds, one nutmeg grated, and 
 its weight in cinnamon. Firft beat your butter to a 
 cream, then put in your fugar; beat the whites of your 
 eggs by themfelves, and mix them with your butter and 
 fugar, and then beat up the yolks and mix with the whites. 
 
 D d 2 Beat 
 
2 i2 CAKES, &c. 
 
 Beat in your flour, fpices, and feed, a little before you 
 fend it away. Bake it two hours in a quick oven, 
 
 A Pound Cake. 
 
 BEAT a pound of butter in an earthen pan till it is 
 like a fine thick cream ; then beat up the yolks of twelve 
 eggs with half the whites, and mix them with the butter, 
 with a pound of fugar, and a few carraways. Work the 
 whole well together, either with your hand or a wooden 
 fpoon. Put it into a buttered pan, and bake it for one 
 hour in a quick oven. 
 
 Plumb Cake. 
 
 TO a pound and a half of fine hour well dried, put 
 the fame quantity of butter, three quarters of a pound of 
 currants, wafhed and well picked ; (tone and flicc half a 
 pound of raifins ; take eighteen ounces of fugir beat and 
 fifted, and fourteen eggs, leaving out half the whites. 
 Shred the peel of a large lemon very fine, three'ounces of 
 candied orange, the fame of lemon, a tea-fpoonful of 
 beaten mace, half a nutmeg grated, a tea-cupful of brandy 
 or white wine, and four fpoonsful of orange flower water* 
 Firft work the butter with your hand to a cream, then 
 beat your fugar well, in, whifk your eggs for half an hour, 
 then mix them with your fugar and butter, and put in 
 your flour and fpices. The whole will take an hour and 
 a half beating. When your oven is ready, mix in 
 lightly your brandy, fruit, and fweet-meats, then put it 
 into your hoop, and bake it two hours and a half. 
 
 Cream Cakes. 
 
 BEAT the whites of nine eggs to a ftiff froth, ftir it 
 gently with a fpoon left the froth fhould fall, and to every 
 white of an egg grate the rinds of two lemons. Shake 
 in gently a fpoonful of double-refined fugar fifted fine, 
 lay a wet fheet of paper on a tin, and with a fpoon 
 drop the froth in little lumps on it, at a fmall diftance 
 from each other. Sift a good quantity of fugar over 
 them, fet them in the oven after the bread is out, and 
 clofe up the mouth of it, which will occafion the froth 
 to rjfe. As foon as they are coloured they will be 
 
 jufficiently 
 
C A K £ S, &c, 213 
 
 fufficiently baked; then take them out, and put two 
 bottoms together; lay them on a fieve, and fet them to 
 dry in a cool oven. 
 
 Bride Cake. 
 
 TAKE four pounds of fine flour well dried, four 
 pounds of frefli butter, and two pounds of loaf fugar. 
 Pound and fift fine a quarter of an ounce of mace, the 
 fame of nutmeg, and to every pound of flour put eight 
 eggs well beat up. Wafh four pounds of currants, pick 
 them well, and dry them before the fire. Blanch a pound 
 of fweet almonds, and cut them length-ways very thin; 
 take a pound of citroh, a pound of candied orange, the 
 fame of candied lemon, and half a pint of brandy. 
 Firfl: work the butter to a cream with your hand, then 
 beat in your fugar a quarter of an hour, and work up 
 the whites of your eggs to a very ftrong froth. Mix 
 them with your fugar and butter, beat your yolks half an 
 hour at leaft, and mix them with the other ingredients. 
 Then put in your flour, mace and nutmeg, and keep 
 beating it well till the oven is ready. Put in your brandy, 
 and beat lightly in your currants and almonds. Tie three 
 fheets of paper round the bottom of your hoop, to keep 
 it from running out, and rub it well with butter. Then 
 put in your cake, and place your fweet-meats in three 
 layers, with lome cake between every layer. As foon as 
 it is rifen and coloured, cover it with paper, and fend it to 
 a moderate oven. Three hours will bake it. 
 
 Rice Cakes. 
 
 BEAT the yolks of fifteen eggs for near half an hour 
 with a whifk ; then put to them ten ounces of loaf-fugar 
 fifted fine, and mix them well together. Then put in 
 half a pound of ground rice, a little orange-water or 
 brandy, and the rinds of two lemons grated. Then put 
 in the whites of feven eggs well beaten, and ftir the whole 
 together for a quarter of an hour. Put them in a hoop, 
 and fee it in a quick oven for half an hour, and it will be 
 properly done. 
 
 Gingerbread Cakes. 
 
 TAKE three pounds of flour, a pound of fugar, the 
 fame quantity of butter rolled in very fine, two ounces of 
 
 beaten 
 
214 CAKES, &c. 
 
 beaten ginger, and a large nutmeg grated. Then take 
 a pound of treacle, a quarter of a pint of cream, and 
 make them warm together. Work up the bread ftifF, 
 roll it out, and make it up into thin cakes. Cut them 
 out with a tea-cup or fmall glafs, or roll them round like 
 nuts, and bake them in a flack oven on tin plates. 
 
 Bath Cakes. 
 
 TAKE a pound of butter, and rub it into an equal 
 weight of flour, with a fpoonful of good barm. Warm 
 fome cream, and make it into a light pafte. Set it to the 
 fire to rife, and when you make them up, take four 
 ounces of carraway comfits, work part of them in, and 
 ftrew the reft on the top. Make them into round cakes, 
 about the fize of a French roll. Bake them on fheet 
 tins, and they will eat well hot either at breakfaft or tea in 
 the afternoon. 
 
 Shrewjhury Cakes. 
 
 BEAT half a pound of butter to a fine cream, and 
 put in the fame weight of flour, one egg, fix ounces of 
 beaten and fifted loaf fugar, and half an ounce of carra¬ 
 way feeds. Mix them with a pafte, roll them thin, and 
 cut them round with a fmall glafs, or little tins; prick 
 them, lay them on fheets of tin ■, and bake them in a flow 
 oven. 
 
 Portugal Cakes. 
 
 MIX into a pound of fine flour a pound of loaf-fugar 
 beat and lifted, and rub it into a pound of pure fweet 
 butter till it is thick like grated white bread j then put to 
 it two fpoonsful of rofe-water, two of lack, and ten eggs j 
 and then work them well with a whifk, and put in eight 
 ounces of currants. Butter the tin pans, fill them but 
 half full, and bake them. If made without currants, 
 they will keep half a year. 
 
 Saffron Cakes. 
 
 TAKE a quartern of fine flour, a pound and a half 
 of butter, three ounces of carraway feeds, fix eggs 
 well beaten, a quarter of an ounce of cloves and mace 
 fine beaten together, a little cinnamon pounded, a 
 
 pound 
 
CAKES, &c. 215 
 
 pound of fugar, a little rofe-water and faffron, a pint 
 and a half of yeaft, and a quart of milk. Mix all toge¬ 
 ther lightly in the following manner : firft boil your milk 
 and butter, thenfkim off the butter, and mix it with your 
 flour, and a little of the milk. Stir the yeaft into the 
 reft, and (train it. Mix it with the flour, put in your 
 feeds and fpice, rofe-water, tin&ure of faffron, fugar, 
 and eggs. Beat it all well up, and bake it in a hoop or 
 pan well buttered. Send it to a quick oven, and an hour 
 and a half will do it. 
 
 Prujfian Cakes. 
 
 TAKE half a pound of dried flour, a pound of beaten 
 and fifted fugar, the yolks and whites of feven eggs beaten 
 feparately, the juice of a lemon, the peels of two finely 
 grated, and half a pound of almonds beat fine with rofe- 
 water. "When you have beat the whites of the eggs to a 
 froth, put in the yolks, and every thing elfe, except the 
 flour, and beat them well together. Shake in the flour 
 juft before you fet it in the oven, and be particularly 
 careful to beat the whites and yolks feparately, otherwife 
 your cake will be heavy, and very unpleafant. 
 
 Queen Cakes. 
 
 TAKE a pound of fugar, and beat and fife it; a 
 pound of well dried flour, a pound of butter, eight eggs, 
 and half a pound of currants wafhed and picked; grate 
 a nutmeg, and the fame quantity of mace and cinnamon. 
 Work your butter to a cream, and put in your fugar; 
 beat the whites of your eggs near half an hour, and mix 
 them with your fugar and butter. Then beat your yolks 
 near half an hour, and put them to your butter. Beat 
 the whole well together, and when it is ready for the 
 oven, put in your flour, fpices, and currants. Sift a 
 little fugar over them, and bake them in tins. 
 
 Almond Cakes „ 
 
 TAKE two ounces of bitter, and one pound of fweet 
 almonds, blanched and beat, with a little role or orange 
 flower water, and the white of one egg ; half a pound of 
 fifted loaf fugar, eight yolks and three whites of eggs, 
 
 3 the 
 
216 CAKE S, &c. 
 
 the juice of half a lemon and the rind grated. Mix the 
 whole well together, and either bake it in one large pan, 
 or feveral fmall ones. 
 
 Little Plumb Cakes. 
 
 TAKE half a pound of lugar finely powdered, two 
 pounds of Hour well dried, four yolks and two whites of 
 eggs, half a pound of butter walked with rofe-water, 
 fix fpoonsful of cream warmed, and a pound and a half 
 of currants unwafhed, but picked and rubbed very clean 
 in a cloth. Mix all well together, then make them up 
 into cakes, bake them in a hot oven, and let them Hand 
 half an hour till they are coloured on both fides. Then 
 take down the oven lid, and let them ftand to foak. You 
 mull rub the butter well into the flour, then the eggs and 
 cream, and then the currants. 
 
 Ratafia Cakes. 
 
 FIRST blanch, and then beat half a pound of fweet 
 almonds, and the fame quantity of bitter almonds, in 
 fine orange, rofe, or ratafia water, to keep the almonds 
 from oiling. Take a pound of fine fugar pounded and 
 fifted, and mix it with your almonds. Have ready the 
 whites of four eggs well beaten, and mix them lightly 
 with the almonds and fugar. Put it into a preferving- 
 pan, and fet over a moderate fire. Keep ftirring it one 
 way untill it is pretty hot, and when a little cool, form 
 it in fmall rolls, and cut it into thin cakes. Dip your 
 hands in flour, and fhake them on them; give each a 
 light tap with your finger, and put them on fugar papers. 
 Sift a little fugar on them before you put them into the 
 oven, which mull be quite flack. 
 
 Ap ricoi Cakes. 
 
 TAKE a pound of ripe apricots, feald and peel them, 
 and, as loon as you find the fkin will come off, take out 
 the Hones. Beat the fruit in mortar to a pulp j then 
 boil half a pound of double-refined fugar, with a fpoon- 
 ful of water, fkim it well, and put to it the pulp of your 
 apricots. Let it firnmer a quarter of an hour over a flow 
 fire, and keep flirting it all the time. Then pour it into 
 Shallow flat glafles, turn them out upon glafs plates, put 
 
 them 
 
CAKES, &c. 
 
 them into a ftove, and turn them once a day till they 
 are dry. 
 
 Orange Coles. 
 
 QUARTER what quantity you pleafe of Seville 
 oranges that have very good rinds, and boil .them in two 
 or three waters until they are tender, and the bitternefs 
 gone off. Skim them, and then lay them on a clean 
 napkin to dry. Take all the fkins and feeds out of the 
 pulp, with a knife, (hred the peels fine, put them to the 
 pulp, weigh them, and put rather more than their weight 
 of fine fugar into a pan, with juft as much water as will 
 diffolve it. Boil it till it becomes a perfect fugar, and 
 then, by degrees, put in your orange-peels and pulp. 
 Stir them well before you fet them on the fire; boil it 
 very gently till it looks clear and thick, and then put 
 them into flat-bottomed glafles. Set them in a ftove, 
 and keep them in a conftant and moderate heat; and 
 when they are candied on the top, turn them out upon 
 glaffes. 
 
 Lemon Cakes. 
 
 TAKE the whites of ten egg€, put to them three 
 fpoonsful of rofe or orange-flower water, and beat them 
 an hour with a whifk. Then put in a pound of beaten 
 and fifted fugar, and grate into it the rind of a lemon. 
 When it is well mixed put in the juice of half a lemon, 
 and the yolks of ten eggs beat fmooth. Juft before you 
 put it into the oven, ftir in three quarters of a pound of 
 flour, butter your pan, put it into a moderate oven, and 
 an hour will bake it. 
 
 Currant Cakes. 
 
 DRY well before a fire a pound and a half of fine 
 flour, take a pound of butter, half a pound of fine loaf 
 fugar well beaten and fifted, four yolks of eggs, four 
 fpoonsful of rofe-water, the fame of fack, a little mace, 
 and a nutmeg grated. Beat the; eggs well, and put 
 them to the rofe water and fack. Then put to it the 
 fugar and butter. Work them all together, and then 
 ftrevv in the currants and flour, having taken care to have 
 them ready warmed for mixing. You may make fix or 
 VI. E e eight 
 
I 
 
 218 BISCUITS, &c. 
 
 eight cakes of them; but mind to bake them of a fine 
 brown, and pretty crifp. 
 
 W/iigs. 
 
 PUT half a pint of warm milk to three quarters of a 
 pound of fine flour, and mix in it two or three fpoonful 
 of light barm. Cover it up, and fet it before the fire an 
 hour, in order to make it rife. Work into the pafte 
 four ounces of fugar, and the fame quantity of butter. 
 Make it into cakes, or whigs, with as little flour as pof- 
 flble, and a few feeds, and bake them in a quick oven. 
 
 Common Bifcuits. 
 
 BEAT eight eggs well up together, and mix with 
 them a pound of lifted fugar with the rind qf a lemon 
 grated. Whifk it about till it looks light, and then put 
 in a pound of flour, with a little rofe-water. Sugar them 
 over, and bake them in tins, or on papers. 
 
 Sponge Bifcuits. 
 
 BEAT the yol|ts of twelve eggs for half an hour; then 
 put in a pound and a half of fugar beat and flfted, and 
 whifk it till you fee it rife in bubbles. Then beat the 
 whites to a ftrong froth, and whifk them well with your 
 fugar and yolks. Work in fourteen ounces of flour, 
 with the rinds of two lemons grated. Bake them in tin 
 moulds buttered, and in a quick oven. They will take 
 about half an hour baking; but before you put them into 
 the oven, remember to lift pounded fugar over them. 
 
 Spanijh Bifcuits. 
 
 TAKE the yolk of eight eggs, beat them half an 
 hour, and then put to them eight fpoonsful of flfted fugar. 
 Then beat the whites to a ftrong froth, and work them 
 well with the yolks and fugar. Put in four fpoonsful of 
 flour, and a little lemon-peel cut fine. Mix all well to¬ 
 gether, and bake them on paper. 
 
 \ - * • 
 
 Drop Bifcuits. 
 
 BEAT up the whites of fix eggs, and the yolks of ten, 
 with a fpoonful of rofe-water, and then put in ten ounces 
 ©f beaten and lifted loaf-fugar. Whifk them well for 
 
 half 
 
BISCUITS, &c. 2ig 
 
 half an hour, and then add an ounce of carraway-feeds 
 crufhed a little, and fix ounces of fine flour. Mix the 
 whole well together, drop them on papers, and bake 
 them in a moderately heated oven. 
 
 Lemon Bifcults. 
 
 TAKE the yolks of ten eggs and the whites of five, 
 and beat them well together, with four fpoonsful of 
 orange-flower-water, till they froth up. Then putina 
 pound of loaf-fugar fifted, beat in one way for half an 
 hour or more, put in half a pound of flour, with the 
 rafpings of two lemons, and the pulp of a fmall one.—* 
 Butter your tin, and bake it in a quick oven but do not 
 ftop up the mouth at firft, for fear it (hould fcorch. 
 Dull: it with fugar before you put it into the oven. 
 
 Macaroons . 
 
 BLANCH and beat fine a pound of fweet almonds, 
 and put to them a pound of fugar and a little rofe-water, 
 to keep them from oiling. Then beat the whites of 
 feven eggs to a froth, put them in, and work the whole 
 well together. Drop them on wafer-paper, grate fugar 
 over them, and put them into the oven. 
 
 Green Caps. 
 
 HAVING gathered as many codlings as you want, 
 juft before they are ripe, green them in the fame manner 
 as for preferving. Then rub them over with a little oiled 
 butter, grate double-refined fugar over them, and fet 
 them in the oven till they look bright, and fparkle like 
 froft. Then take them out, and put them into a china 
 difh. Make a very fine cuftard, and pour it round them. 
 Stick Angle flowers in every apple, and ferve them up. 
 
 Black Caps. 
 
 TAKE out the cores, and cut into halves twelve 
 large apples. Place them on a tin-patty-pan as clofe as 
 they can lie, with the flat fide downwards. Squeeze a 
 lemon into two fpoonsful of orange-flower-water, and 
 pour it over them. Shred fome lemon-peel fine, and 
 throw over them, and grate fine fugar over all. Set 
 them in a quick oven, and half an hour will do them. 
 
 E e 2 When 
 
220 confectionary' 
 
 When you fend them to table, ftrew fine fugar all over 
 the difh. 
 
 Snow Balls. 
 
 PARE and take out the cores of five large baking 
 apples, and fill the holes with orange or quince marma¬ 
 lade. Then make fome good hot pafte, roll your apples 
 in it, and make your cruft of an equal thicknefs. Put 
 them in a tin dripping-pan, bake them in a moderate 
 oven, and when you take them out, make icing for them, 
 directions for which, you will find at the clofe of the fer- 
 cond feftion in the next chapter. Let your icing be 
 about a quarter of an inch thick, and fee them at a good 
 diftance from the fire till they are hardened but take care 
 you do not let them brown. Put one in thp middle of $ 
 difh, and the others round it. 
 
 CHAP. XX. 
 
 THE ART OF CONFECTIONARY. 
 
 sect. i. : 
 
 THE METHOD OF PREPARING SUGARS AND 
 
 COLOURS. 
 
 T HE firft procefs in the art of confe&ionary is that 
 of clarifying fugars, which requires great care and 
 attention, and muft be done according to the following 
 direction: 
 
 Break the white of an egg into your preferving-pan, 
 put to it four quarts of water, and beat it up to a froth 
 with a whilk. Then put in twelve pounds of fugar, mix 
 all together, and fet it over the fire. When it boils put 
 in a little cold water, and in this manner proceed as many 
 times as may be neceffary till the feum appears thick on 
 the top. Then remove it from the fire, and when it is 
 fettled take off the feum, and pafs it through a ftraining- 
 bag. If the fugar fhould not appear very fine, give it 
 
 another 
 
CONFECTIONARY. 221 
 
 another boil before you ftrain it.-—This is the firft; opera¬ 
 tion, having done which you may proceed to clarify your 
 fugar to either of the following degrees: 
 
 1. Smooth or Candy Sugar. —After having gone through 
 the firft procefs, as before directed, put what quantity 
 you may have occafion for over the fire, and let it boil 
 till it is fmooth. This you may know by dipping your 
 fkimmer into the fugar, and then touching it between 
 your fore-finger and thumb, and immediately on opening 
 them, you will obferve a fmall thread drawn between, 
 which will immediately break, and remain on a drop on 
 your thumb, which will be a fign of its being in fome de¬ 
 gree of fmocthnefs. ' Then give it another boiling, and 
 it will draw into a larger firing, when it will have ac¬ 
 quired the firft degree, from whence we proceed to 
 
 2 . Bloom Sugar .—In this degree of refining fugar, you 
 muft boil it longer than in the former procefs, and then 
 dip your fkimmer in, ihakingoft what fugar you can into 
 the pan: then blow with your month flrongly through 
 the holes, and if certain bladders, or bubbles, go 
 through, it will be a proof that it has acquired the fecond 
 (degree. 
 
 3. Feathered Sugar. —To prove this degree, dip 
 the fkimmer into the fugar when it has boiled longer 
 than in the former degrees. When you have fo done, 
 firft fhake it over the pan, then give it a fudden flirt be¬ 
 hind you, and if it is enough, the fugar will fly off like 
 feathers. 
 
 ^Crackled Sugar.— Boil your fugar longer than'In 
 the preceding degree j then dip a flick into it, and im¬ 
 mediately put it into a pan of cold water, which you 
 muft have by you for that purpofe. Draw off the fugar 
 that hangs to the flick into the water, and if it becomes 
 hard, and fnaps, it has acquired the proper degree $ but, 
 if otherwife, you muft boil it again till it anfwers that 
 trial. Be particularly careful that the water you ufe for 
 this purpofe is perfe&ly cold, otherwife you will be 
 greatly deceived. 
 
 5. Carmel Sugars. —To obtain the laft degree, your 
 fugar muft boil longer than in either of the former ope¬ 
 rations. 
 
222 CONFECTIONARY. 
 
 rations. You mu ft prove it by dipping a ftick, firft into 
 the fugar, and then into cold water; but this you rrmft 
 obferve, that when it comes to the carmei height, it will, 
 the moment it touches the water, fnap like glafs, which is 
 thehigheft and laft degree of refining fugar. When you 
 boil this take care that your fire is not too fierce, left it 
 ihould, by flaming up the fides of the pan, caufe the fugar 
 to burn, difcolour it, and thereby deftroy all your labour. 
 
 Having thus defcribed the various degrees of re¬ 
 fining fugar, we fhall now point out the method of pre¬ 
 paring thofe colours with which they may be tinged, ac¬ 
 cording to the fancy, and the different purpofes for which 
 they are to be ufed. 
 
 Red Colour. 
 
 TO make this colour, boil an ounce of cochineal in 
 half a pint of water, for about five minutes j then add 
 half an ounce of cream of tartar, and half an ounce of 
 pounded allum, and boil the whole on a flow fire about 
 as long again. In order to know if it is done, dip a pen 
 into it, write on white paper, and if it fhews the colour 
 clear, it is fufficient. Then take it off the fire, add two 
 ounces of fugar, and let it fettle. Pour it clear off, and 
 keep it in a bottle well flopped for ufe. 
 
 Blue Colour. 
 
 THIS colour is only for prefent ufe, and mu ft be 
 made thus: Put a little warm water in a plate, and rub 
 an indigo ftone in it till the colour is come to the tint you 
 would have it. The more you rub it, the higher the 
 colour will be. 
 
 Yellow Colour. 
 
 THIS is done by pouring a little water into a plate, 
 and rubbing it with a bit of gumboge. It may alfo be 
 done with yellow lilly thus : Take the heart of the flower, 
 infufe the colour with milk-warm water, and preferve it in 
 a bottle well flopped, 
 
 Green Colour. 
 
 TRIM the Jeaves of fome fpinach, boil them about 
 half a minute in a little water, then ftrain it clear off, and 
 
 it will be fit for ufe. 
 
 Any 
 
CREAMS, &c. 223 
 
 Any alteration may be made in thefe colours, by mix¬ 
 ing to what {bade you think proper; but, on thefe oc- 
 cafions, tafte and fancy mud be your guide. 
 
 Dez •ices in Sugar . 
 
 STEEP gum-tragacanth in rofe-water, and with fome 
 double-refined fugar make it into a pafte. Colour it 
 to your fancy, and make up your device in fuch forms 
 as you may think proper. You may have moulds made 
 in various fhapes for this purpofe and your devices will 
 be pretty ornaments placed on the top of iced cakes. 
 
 Sugar of Rofes in various Figures. 
 
 CHIP off the white part of fome rofe-buds, and dry 
 them in the fun. Pound an ounce of.them very fine; 
 then take a pound of loaf-fugar, wet it in fome rofe- 
 water, and boil it to a candy height; then put in your 
 powder of rofes, and the juice of a lemon. Mix all well 
 together, then put it on a pie-plate, and cut it into lo¬ 
 zenges, or make it into any kind of fhapes or figures 
 your fancy may draw. If you want to ufe them as orna¬ 
 ments for a defert, you may gild or colour them to your 
 tafte. 
 
 SECT. II. 
 
 CREAMS and JAMS. 
 
 Orange Cream . 
 
 PARE off the rind of a Seville orange very fine, and 
 then lqueeze out the juice of four oranges. Put them 
 into a itew-pan, with a pint-of water, and eight ounces of 
 fugar mix with them the whites of five eggs well beat, 
 and fet the whole over the fire. Stir it one way till it be¬ 
 comes thick and white, then flrain it through a gauze, 
 and keep ftirring it till it is cold. Then beat the yolks of 
 five eggs very fine, and put into your pan with fome 
 cream and the other articles. Stir it over a flow fire till 
 it is ready to boil, then pour it into a bafon, and .having 
 ftirred it till it is quite cold, put it into your glaffes. 
 
 Lemon 
 
224 CREAMS, &c. 
 
 , Lemon Cream. 
 
 CUT off the rinds of two lemons as thin as you can, 
 then fqueeze out the juice of three, and add to them a 
 pint of lpring water. Mix with them the whites of fix 
 eggs beat very fine, fweeten it to your tafte, and keep 
 ftirring it till it thickens, but be careful it does not boil. 
 Strain it through a cloth, then mix with'it the yolks of 
 fix eggs well beat up, and put it over the fire to thicken. 
 Then pour it into a bowl, and when it is thoroughly 
 Cold, put it into your glaffes. 
 
 Hartjhorn Cream. 
 
 TAKE four ounces of the (havings of hartfliorn, boil 
 it in three pints of water till it is reduced to half a pint, 
 and then run it through a jelly-bag. Put to it a pint of 
 cream, and four ounces of fine fugar, and let it juft boil 
 up. Put it into jelly-glaffes, let it ftand till it is cold, 
 and then, by dipping your glaffes into fealding water, it 
 will flip out whole. Then (lick them all over with dices 
 of almond cut lengthways. It is generally eaten with 
 white-wine and fugar. 
 
 Burnt Cream. 
 
 BOIL a pint of cream with fugar, and a little lemon- 
 peel fhred fine; and then beat up the yolks of fix, and 
 the whites of four eggs feparately. When your cream 
 Jhas got cool, put in your eggs, with a fpoonfulof orange- 
 flower-water, and one of fine flour. .Set it over the fire, 
 keep ftirring it till it is thick, and then pour it into a difh. 
 When it is cold, lift a quarter of a pound of fine fugar 
 all over it, and hold a hot falamander over it, till it is of 
 a nice light brown colour. 
 
 Blanched Cream . 
 
 TAKE a quart of very thick cream, and mix with it 
 fome fine fugar and orange-flower-water. Boil it, and 
 beat up the whites of twenty eggs with a little cold cream ; 
 ftrain it, and when the cream is upon the boil, pour in 
 the eggs, and keep ftirring it till it comes to a thick curd. 
 Then take it up, and ftrain it again through a hair fieve ; 
 beat it well with a fpoon till it is cold, and then put it 
 into a difh. 
 
 IVhipt 
 
 3 
 
CREAMS, &c. 225 
 
 Whipt Cream. 
 
 TAKE the whites of eight eggs, a quart of thick 
 cream, and half a pint of fack. Mix them together, 
 and fweeten to your tafle with double-refined fugar. You 
 may perfume it, if you pleafe, with a little mulk or am¬ 
 bergris tied in a rag, and (teeped a little in the cream. 
 Whip it up with a whifk, and fome lemon-peel tied in 
 the middle of the whifk. Take the froth with a fpoon, 
 and lay it in your glaffes or bafons. This put over fine 
 tarts has a pretty appearance. 
 
 Spanijh Cakes. 
 
 T AKE three (poonsful of flour of rice fifted very fine, 
 the yolks of three eggs, three fpoonsful of water, .and two 
 .of orange-flower-water. Then put to them one pint of 
 creaqi, and fet it upon a good fire ; keep ftirring it till it 
 is of a proper thicknefs, and then pour it into cups. 
 
 Steeple Cream. 
 
 TAKE five ounces of hartfhorn, and two ounces of 
 ivory, and put them into a ftone bottle; fill it up with 
 fair water to the neck; put in a fmall quantity of gum- 
 arabic and gum-dragon ; then tie up the bottle very clofe, 
 and fet it into a pot of water, with hay at the bottom. 
 When it has flood fix hours, take it out, and let it Hand 
 an hour before you open it; then drain it, and it will be a 
 flrong jelly. Take a pound of blanched almonds, beat 
 them very fine, mix it with a pint of thick cream, and let 
 it (land a little; then (train it out, and mix it with a 
 pound of jelly; let it over the fire till it is fcalding hot, 
 and fweeten it to your tafle with double-refined fugar. 
 Then take it off, put in a little amber, and pour it into 
 fmall high gallipots. When it is cold, turn them, and 
 lay cold cream about them in heaps. Be careful it does 
 not boil when you put in the cream. 
 
 Barley Cream. 
 
 TAKE a fmall quantity of pearl-barley, boil it in 
 milk and water till it is tender, and then (train off the 
 liquor. Put your barlev into a quart of cream, and let it 
 No. VI. F f boil 
 
22 6 CREA M S, &c. 
 
 boil a little. Take the whites of five eggs, and the 
 yoke of one, and beat them up with a fpoonful of fine 
 flour, and two fpoonsful of orange flower-water. Then 
 take the cream off the fire, mix in the eggS by degrees, 
 and fet it over the fire again to thicken. Sweeten it to 
 your tafte, and pour it into bafons for ufe. 
 
 Pifiachio Cream . 
 
 TAKE out the kernels of half a pound of piftachio 
 nuts, and beat them in a mbrtar with a fpoonful of bran¬ 
 dy. Put them into a pan with a pint of good cream, 
 and the yolks of two eggs beat fine. Stir it gently over 
 the fire till it grows thick, and then put it into a china 
 foup-plate. When it is cold, flick it all over with l’mall 
 pieces of the nuts, and fend it to table. 
 
 Tea Cream. 
 
 BOIL a quarter of an ounce of fine hvfon tea with half 
 a pint of milk; then flrain it, and put in half a pint of 
 cream, and two fpoonsful of rennet. Set it over fome hot 
 embers in the difli you intend to fend to table, and 
 cover it with a tin plate. W hen it is thick it will be done, 
 and fit to ferve up. Coffee-cream is made in the fame 
 manner. 
 
 Chocolate Cream. 
 
 TAKE a charter of a pound of the belt chocolate, and 
 having fcraped it fine, put to it as much water as will 
 diffolve it Then beat it half an hour in a mortar, and 
 put in as much fine fugar as will fweeten it, and a pint 
 and a half of cream. Mill it, and as the froth riles, lay 
 it on a fieve. Put the remainder of your cream in poffet- 
 glaffes, and lay the frothed cream upon them. 
 
 Pompadour Cream. 
 
 BEAT the whites of five eggs to a ftrong froth, then 
 put them into a pan, with two fpoonsful oforange-flower- 
 water, and two ounces of fugar. Stir it gently for three 
 or four minutes, then put it into your difli, and pour 
 melted butter over it. This muff be ferved up hot, and 
 makes a pretty corner difli for a fecond courfe at dinner. 
 
 Ratafia 
 
CREAMS, &V. 22; 
 
 Ratafia Cream% 
 
 TAKE fix large laurel leaves, and boil them in a quart 
 of thick milk with a little ratafia,,and when it has boiled 
 throw away the leaves. Beat the yolks of four eggs with 
 a little cold cream, and fvveeten it with fugar tty your 
 tafte. Then thicken the cream with your e<*gs? and fet 
 it over the fire again, but do not let it boiL Keep ftir- 
 ring it all the time one way, and then pour it .into china 
 difhes. This mull be ferved up cold. 
 
 Ice Cream. 
 
 TAKE twelve ripe apricots, pare, ftone, and fcald 
 them, and beat them fine in a marble mortar. Put to 
 them fix ounces of double-refined fugar, 'and- a pint of 
 fcalding cream, and work it through a hair fieve. Put it 
 into a tin that has a clofe cover, and fet it in a tub of ice 
 broken fmall, and a large quantity of fait put among it. 
 When you fee your cream grows thick round the edges of 
 your tin, ftir it, and fet it in again till it grows quite thick. 
 When it is frozen up, take it out of the tin, and put it 
 into the mould you intend it to be turned out of. Then 
 put on the lid, and have ready another tub, with fait and 
 ice in it as before. Put your mould in the middle, and 
 lay your ice under and over it. Let it (land four or five 
 hours, and dip your tin in warm water when you turn it 
 out; but if it is luinmer, remember not to turn it out till 
 the moment you want it. If you have not apricots, any 
 other fruit will anfwer the purpofe. 
 
 Rajberry Cream. 
 
 RUB a quart of rafberries, or rafberry-jam, through 
 a hair fieve, to take out the feeds, and then mix it well with ' 
 cream. Sweeten it with fugar to your tafte ; then put it 
 into a ftone jug, and raife a froth with a chocolate mill. 
 As your froth rifes, take it off with a fpoon, and lay it 
 upon a hair fieve. When you have got as much froth as 
 you want, put what cream remains into a deep china difh, 
 or punch-bowl, pour your frothed cream upon it as high 
 as it will lie on, and flick a light flower in the middle. 
 
 Rafberty 
 
 Ffa 
 
I 
 
 228 JAMS. 
 
 Rajberry Jam. 
 
 LET vour rafberries be thoroughly ripe, and quite 
 dry. Mafli them fine, and ftrew them in their own 
 weight of loaf fugar, and half their weight of the juice 
 of white currants. Boil them half an hour over a clear 
 flow fire*, fkim them well, and put them into pots, or 
 glaffes.- Tie them down with brandy papers, and keep 
 them dry. Strew on the fugar as foon as you can after 
 the berries are gathered, and in order to preferve their fine 
 flavour, do not let them ftand long before you boil them. 
 
 Strawberry Jam. 
 
 BRUISE very fine fome, fcarlet ftrawberries gathered 
 when quite* ripe, and put to them a little juice of ftraw¬ 
 berries. Beat and lift their weight in fugar, ftrew it over 
 them, and put them into a prefcrving pan. Set them 
 over a clear flow fire, fkim them, boil them twenty 
 minutes, and then put them into glafles. 
 
 Apricot Jam. 
 
 GET fome of the ripeft apricots you can. Pare and 
 cut them thin, and then infufe them in an earthen pan till 
 tender and dry. To every pound and a half of apricots, 
 put a pound of double-refined fugar, and three fpoonsful 
 of water. Boil your fugar to a candy height, and then 
 put it upon your apricots. Stir them over a flow fire till 
 they look clear and thick, but be careful they do not boil j 
 then pour them into your glafles. 
 
 Gtfojeberry Jam. 
 
 CUT and pick out the feeds of fine large green goofe- 
 berries, gathered when they are full grown, but not ripe. 
 Put them into a pan of water, green them, and put them 
 into a fieve to drain. Then beat them in a marble mor¬ 
 tar, with their weight in fugar. Take a quart of goofe- 
 berries, boil them to a mafn in a quart of water, fqueeze 
 them, and to every pint of liquor put a pound of fine 
 loaf fugar. Then boil and fkim it, put in your green 
 goofeberries, and having boiled them till they are very 
 thick, clear, and of a pretty green, put them into 
 glafles. 
 
 Black 
 
ft 
 
 229 
 
 JELLIES, &c. 
 
 Black Currant Jam . 
 
 GATHER your currants when they are thoroughly 
 ripe and dry, and pick them clean from the (talks.— 
 Then bruiie them well in a bowl, and to every two 
 pounds of currants, put a pound and a half of loaf-fugar 
 finely beaten. Put them into a preferving-pan, boil 
 them half an hour, fkim and ftir them all the time, and 
 then put them into pots. 
 
 Icings for Cakes and various Articles in Confectionary. 
 
 TAKE a pound of double-refined fugar pounded and 
 fifeed fine, and mix it with the whites of twenty-four eggs, 
 in an earthen pan. Whifk them well for two or three 
 hours till it looks white and thick, and then, with a broad 
 thin board, or bunch of feathers, fpread it all over the 
 top and fides of the cake. Set it at a proper diftance 
 before a clear fire, and keep turning it continually, that 
 it may not lofe its colour ■, but a cool oven is bed, where 
 an hour will harden it. 
 
 Or you may make it thus: 
 
 BEAT the whites of three eggs to a ftrong froth: 
 bruife a pound of Jordan almonds very fine with rofe 
 water, and mix your almonds with the eggs lightly toge¬ 
 ther. Then beat a pound of loaf fugar very fine, and 
 put it in by degrees. When your cake (or whatever ar¬ 
 ticle it may be) is enough, lay on your icing. 
 
 SECT. III. 
 
 JELLIES, SYLLABUBS, &c. 
 
 Calf's Feet Jelly. 
 
 BOIL two calf’s feet well cleaned in a gallon of 
 water till it is reduced to a quart, and then pour it into a 
 pan. When it is cold, fkim off all the fat, and take the 
 jelly up clean. Leave what fettling may remain at the 
 bottom, and put the jelly into a faucepan, with a pint of 
 mountain wine, half a pound of loaf-fugar, and the juice 
 ol four lemons. Add to thefe the whites of fix or eight 
 eggs well beat up, ftir-all well together, put it on the 
 
 fire. 
 
230 J E L L I E S, &c. 
 
 fire, and let it boil a few minutes. Pour it int6 a large 
 flannel bag, and repeat it till it runs clear j then have ready 
 a large china bafon, and put into it fome lemon-peel cut 
 as thin as poffible. Let the jelly run into the bafon, and 
 the lemon-peel will not only give it a pleafing colour, but 
 a grateful flavour. Fill your glafles, and it will be fit for 
 ufe. 
 
 Hartjhorn Jelly. 
 
 BOIL half a pound of hartfhorn in three quarts of 
 water over a gentle fire, till it becomes a jelly. If you 
 take out a little to cool, and it hangs on a fpoon it is 
 enough. Strain it while it is hot, put it into a web-tinned 
 fauce-pan, and add to it a pint of Rhenifh wine, and a 
 quarter of a pound of loaf fugar. Beat the whites of 
 four eggs or more to a froth, ftir it all together that the 
 whites may mix well with the jelly, and pour it in as if 
 you were cooling it. Let it boil two or three minutes, 
 then put in the juice of three or four lemons, and Jet it 
 boil a minute or two longer. When it is finely curdled, 
 and of a pure white colour, have ready a fwan-fkin jelly- 
 bag over a china bafon, pour in yourjeljy, and pour 
 back again till it is clear as rock water ; then let a 
 very clean china bafon under, have .your glafles as clean 
 as poffible, and with a clean fpoon fill them. Have 
 ready fome thin rind of lemons, and when you have 
 filled half your glafles, throw your peel into the bafon. 
 When the jelly is all run out of the bag, with a clean 
 fpoon fill the reft of the glafles, and they will look of a 
 fine amber colour. Put in lemon and fugar to your pa¬ 
 late, but remember to make it pretty fweet, otherwife it 
 will not be palatable. No fixed rule can be given for 
 putting in the ingredients, which can only be regulated 
 according to tafte and fancy. 
 
 Orange Jelly. 
 
 PUT a pound of hartfhorn fhavings into two quarts 
 of fpring water, and let it boil till it is reduced to a quart j 
 then pour it clear off, and let it ftand till it is cold. 
 Take the rinds of three oranges pared very thin, and the 
 juice of fix, and let them ftand ail night in half a pint of 
 
 fpring 
 
J E L L I E S, &c. 231 
 
 fpring water. Then (train them through a fine hair fie ve, 
 melt the jelly and pour the orange liquor to it. Sweeten 
 it to your tafte with double-refined fugar, and put to it 
 a blade or two of mace, four or five cloves, half a frnall 
 nutmeg, > and the rind of a lemon. Beat the whites of 
 five or fix eggs to a froth, mix it well with your jelly, 
 and fet it over a clear fire. When it has boiled three or 
 four minutes, run it through your jelly-bags leveral times 
 till it is clear; in doing which be particularly careful you 
 do not (hake it. Put it into your glades, and it will befit 
 for ufe. 
 
 Fruit in Jelly. 
 
 PUT into a bafon half a pint of clear calf’s feet jelly, 
 and when it is fee and ftiff, lay in three fine peaches, and 
 a bunch of grapes with the ftalk upwards. Put over 
 them a few vine leaves, and then fill up your bowl with 
 jelly. Let it (land till the next day, and then fet your 
 bafon to the brim in hot water. When you perceive it 
 gives way from the bafon, lay your dilh over it, turn your 
 jelly carefully out, and ferve it to table. 
 
 Blanc Mange. 
 
 THERE are various methods of making this jelly, 
 but the belt, and thofe mod ufually praftifed, are three ; 
 the firft of which is termed green, and is prepared from 
 ifinglafs in the following manner: 
 
 Having difTolved your ifinglafs, put to it two ounces 
 of fweet and the fame quantity of bitter almonds, with 
 fome of the juice of fpinach to make it green, and a fpoan- 
 ful of French brandy. Set it over a ftove fire in a fauce- 
 pan, and let it remain till it is almoft ready to boil, then 
 (train it through a gauze fieve, and when it grows thick, 
 put it into a melon mould, let it lay till the next day, and 
 then turn it out. You maygarnifh it with red and white 
 flowers. 
 
 The fecond method of preparing this jelly is alfo from 
 ifinglafs, and muft be done thus: Put into a quart Qf water 
 an ounce of ifinglafs, and let it boil till it is reduced to a 
 pint: then put in the whites of four eggs, with two 
 fpoonsful of rice water, and fweeten it to your tafte. 
 
 Run 
 
232, , JELLIES, &c. 
 
 Run it through a jelly-bag, and then put to it two ounces 
 of fweet and one ounce of bitter almonds. Give them a 
 fcald in your jell) r , and then run them through a hair 
 fieve. Then put it into a china bowl, and the next day 
 turn it out. Garnifh with flowers or green leaves, and 
 flick all over the top blanched almonds cut lengthways. 
 
 The third fort of blanc mange is called dear , and is 
 prepared thus : Skim off the fat, and drain a quart of 
 ilrong calf’s feet jelly. Then beat the whites of four 
 eggs, and put them to your jelly. Set it over the fire, 
 and keep ftirring it till it boils. Then pour it into a 
 jelly-bag, and run it through feveral times till it is clear. 
 Beat an ounce of fweet and the fame quantity of bitter 
 almonds to a pafte, with a fpOonfulof rofe-water fqueczed 
 through a cloth. Then mix it with the jelly, and add 
 to it three fpoonsful of very- good cream. Set it again 
 over the fire, and keep ftirring it till it almoft boils.— 
 Pour it into a bowl, ftir it very often till it is almoft cold, 
 then wet your moulds, and fill them. 
 
 Black Currant Jelly. 
 
 LET your currants be thoroughly ripe, and quite dry; 
 ft rip them clear from the ftalks, and put them into a large 
 ftew-pot. To every ten quarts of currants, put one quart 
 of water. Tie paper clofe over them, and fet them 
 for two hours in a cool oven. Then fqueeze them 
 through a very fine cloth, and to every quart of juice add 
 a pound and a half of loaf-fugar broken into fmall pieces. 
 Stir it gently till the fugar is melted, and when it boils, 
 take off the fcum quite clean. Let it boil pretty quick 
 for an hour over a clear fire, and then pour it into pots, 
 cover them with brandy-papers, and keep them in a dry 
 place. Red and white currant jelly mult be made in the 
 lame manner. 
 
 Ribband Jelly. 
 
 TAKE out the great bones of four calf’s feet, and put 
 the meat into a pot with ten quarts of water, three ounces 
 of hartlhorn, the fame quantity of ifinglafs, a nutmeg 
 quartered, and four blades of mace. Boil it till it comes 
 to two quarts, then drain it through a flannel bag, and let 
 
JELLIES, &c. 233 
 
 it (land twenty-four hours. Then fcrape off all the fat 
 from the top very dean, dice the jelly, and put to it the 
 whites of fix eggs beaten to a froth. Boil it a little, and 
 ftrain it through a flannel bag. Then run the jelly into 
 little high glafles, and run every colour as thick as your 
 finger ; but obferve, that one colour mud be thoroughly 
 cold before you put on another j and that which you put 
 on muft be but blood warm, otherwife they will mix to¬ 
 gether. You muft colour red with cochineal, green with 
 fpinach, yellow with faffron, blue with fyrup of violets, 
 and white with thick cream. 
 
 Savory Jelly. 
 
 TAKE fome thin dices of lean veal and ham, and put 
 them into a ftew-pan, with a carrot or turnip, or two or 
 three onions. Cover it, and let it fweat on a flow fire till 
 it is of a deep brown colour. Then put to it a quart of 
 very clear froth, fome whole pepper, mace, a little ifin- 
 glais, and fait to you palate. Boil it ten minutes, then 
 llrain it, lkim off all the fat, and put to it the whites of 
 three eggs. Then run it feveral times through a jelly- 
 bag till it is perledly clear, and pour it into your glafles. 
 
 Common Syllabub. 
 
 PUT a pint of cyder and a bottle of ftrong beer into a 
 large bowl; grate in a fmall nutmeg, and fweeten it to 
 your tafte. Then milk from the cow as much milk as 
 will make a ftrong froth. Let it ftand an hour, and then 
 ftrevv over it a few currants well wafhed, picked, and 
 plumed before the fire, and it will be fit for ufe. 
 
 Whipt Syllabub. 
 
 RUB a lump of loaf-fugar on the outfide of a lemon* 
 and put it into a pint of thick cream, and fweeten it to your 
 tafte. Then fqueeze in the juice of a lemon, and add a 
 glafs of Madeira wine, or French brandy. Mill it to a 
 froth with a chocolate-mill, take off the froth as it rifes, 
 and lay it in a hair-fieve. Then fill one half of your 
 glafles a little more than half full with white wine, and 
 the other half of your glafles a little more than half ful^ 
 with red wine. Then lay on your froth as high as you can, 
 but take care that it is well drained on your fleve, other- 
 wife it will mix with the wine, and your fyllabub be fpoiled. 
 VI, G g ’ Solid 
 
234 JELLIES, &c. 
 
 Solid Syllabub. 
 
 TO a quart of rich cream put a pint of white wine, the 
 juice of two lemons, with the rind of one grated, and 
 fweeten it to your tafte. Whip it up well, and take off the 
 froth as it rifes. Put it upon a hair fieve, and let it ftand 
 in a cool place till the next day. Then half fill your 
 glafies with the {kirn, and heap up the froth as high as you 
 can. The bottom will look clear, and it will keep feveral 
 days. 
 
 Lemon Syllabubs. 
 
 TAKE a quarter of a pound of loaf-fugar, and rub 
 upon the outer rinds of two lemons, till you have got all 
 the eflence out of them. Then put the fugar into a pint 
 of cream, and the fame quantity of white wine. Squeeze 
 in the juice of both lemons, and let it ftand for two hours. 
 Then mill it with a chocolate-mill to raife the froth, and 
 take it off with a fpoon as it rifes, or it will make it 
 heavy. Lay it upon a hair fieve to drain, then fill your 
 glaftes with the remainder, and lay on the froth as high as 
 you can. Let them ftand all night, and they will be fit 
 for ufe. 
 
 Everlajling Syllabubs. 
 
 TAKE half a pint of Rhenifh wine, half a pint of 
 fack, with the juice ot two large Seville oranges, and 
 put them into two pints and a half of thick cream. 
 Grate in juft the yellow rind of three lemons, and put in a 
 pound of double-refined fugar well beaten and ftfted. Mix 
 all together, with a fpoonful of orange flower-water, and 
 with a whifk beat it well together for half an hour. Then, 
 with a fpoon, take oft'the froth, lay it on a fieve to drain, 
 and fill your glaftes. Thefe will keep better than a week, 
 and fhouid always be made the day before they are 
 \yanted.—The beft way to whip a fyllabub is this : Have 
 a fine large chocolate-mill, which you muft keep on 
 purpofe, and a large deep bowl to mill them in, as this 
 way they will be done the quicker, and the froth be the 
 ftronger. For the thin that is left at the bottom, have 
 ready feme call’s feet jelly boiled and clarified, in which, 
 muft be nothing but the calf’s feet boiled to a. hard jelly. 
 
 When 
 
JELLIES, &c. ' 235 
 
 When it is cold, take off the fat, clear it with the whites 
 of eggs, run it through a flannel bag, and mix it with the 
 clear left of the fyllabub. Sweeten it to your palate, give ic 
 a boil, and then pour it into b'afons, or iuch other veftels 
 as you may think proper. When cold, turn it out, and 
 it will be exceeding fine. 
 
 A Hedge Hog. 
 
 TAKE two pounds of blanched almonds, and beat 
 them well in a mortar, with a little canary and orange- 
 flower-water, to keep them from oiling. Work them into 
 a fluff pafle, and then beat in the yolks of twelve, and the 
 whites of feven eggs. Put to it a pint of cream, fweeten it 
 to your tafte, and let it on a clear fire. Keep it conftantly 
 ftirring till it is thick enough to make into the form of an 
 hedge-hog. Then flick it full of blanched almonds, 
 flit and ftuck up like the briftles of a hedge-hog, and then 
 put it into a difh. Take a pint of cream, and the yolks 
 of four eggs beat up, and fweeten it to your palate. Stir 
 the whole together over a flow fire till it is quite hot, and 
 then pour it into the difh round the hedge-hog, and let 
 ic {land till it is cold, when its form will have a pleafing 
 effedl. 
 
 Flummery. 
 
 ✓ 
 
 T AKE an ounce of bitter, and the fame quantity of 
 fweet almonds^ put them in a bafon, and pour over them 
 fome boiling water to make the fkins come off. Then 
 drip off the fkins, and throw the kernels into cold water ; 
 take them out, and beat them in a marble mortar, with a 
 little rofe-water to keep them from oiling; and when they 
 are beat, put them into a pint of calves feet flock; fet it 
 over the fire, and fweeten it to your tafte with loaf-fugar. 
 As foon as it boils, drain it through a piece of muflin or 
 gauze; and when it is a little cold, put it into a pint of 
 thick cream, and keep ftirring it often till it grows thick 
 and cold. Wet your moulds in cold water, and pour in 
 the flummery. Let them ftand about fix hours before 
 you turn them out; and, if you make your flummery ftiff, 
 and wet your moulds, it will turn out without putting 
 thfem into warm water, which will be a great advantage to 
 
 G g 2 the 
 
236 X JELLIES , &c. 
 
 the look of the figures, as warm water gives a dullnefs to 
 the flummery. 
 
 French Flummery. 
 
 PUT an ounce of ifinglafs beat very fine into a quart 
 of cream, and mix them well together. Let it boil 
 gently over a flow fire for a quarter of an hour, and keep 
 ftirring it all the time. Then take it off, fweeten it to 
 your tafte, and put in a fpoonful of rofe-water, and ano¬ 
 ther of orange-flower-water. Strain it, and pour it into 
 a glafs or bafon, and when it is cold, turn it out. 
 
 Green Melon in Flummery . 
 
 TAKE a little ftiff flummery, and put into it fome 
 bitter-almonds, with as much juice of fpinach as will 
 ynake it of a fine pale green. When it becomes as thick 
 as good cream, wet your melon-mould, and put it in. 
 Then put a pint of clear calf’s-feet jelly into a large 
 bafon, and let them (land all night. The next day turn 
 out your melon, and lay it in the middle of your bafon 
 of jelly, Then fill up your bafon with jelly that is be¬ 
 ginning to fet, and let it ftand all night. The next 
 morning turn it out in the fame manner as dire&ed for 
 the Fruit in Jelly. See page 231. For ornament, put 
 on the top a garland of flowers. 
 
 Solomon s Temple in Flummery. 
 
 TAKE a quart of ftiff flummery, and divide it into 
 three parts. Make one part a pretty thick colour with a 
 little cochineal bruifed fine, and fteeped in French brandy. 
 Scrape an ounce of chocolate very fine, diffolve it in a little 
 ftrong coffee, and mix it with another part of your flum- 
 mery, to make it a light ftone colour. The laft part 
 muft be white. Then wet your temple-mould, and fit it 
 in a pot to ftand even. Fill the top of the temple with red 
 flummery for the fteps, and the four points with white. 
 Then nli it up with chocolate flummery, and let it ftand 
 till the next day, Then loofen it round with a pin, and 
 fhake it loofe very gently j but do not dip your mould in 
 warm water, as that will take off the glofs, and fpoil the 
 colour. When you turn it out, ftick a fmall fprig of 
 flowers down from the top of every point, which will not 
 
PRESERVING, &c. 237 
 
 only ftrengthen it, but give it a pretty appearance. Lay 
 round it rock candy fweetmeats. 
 
 SEC T. IV. 
 
 PRESERVING FRUITS, &c. 
 
 SOME general rules are neceffary to be obferved in 
 this part of the Art of Confectionary, and which we (hall 
 previoufly notice, as well for the inftruftion, as reputation 
 of thofe whofe province it may be occafionally to ufe fuch 
 articles. In the firft place remember, that in making 
 your fyrups, the fugar is well pounded and diflblved be¬ 
 fore you let it on the fire, which will not only make the 
 fcum rife well, but caule the fyrup to have its proper 
 colour. When you preferve cherries, damfons, or any 
 other kind of (tone fruit, cover them with mutton-fuet 
 Tendered, in order to keep out the air, which, if it pene¬ 
 trates, will totally deftroy them. All wet fweetmeats 
 mull be kept in a dry and cool place, as they will be 
 fubjeft to grow mouldy and damp, and too much heat 
 will deftroy their virtue. Dip writing paper into brandy, 
 lay it clofe to the fweetmeats, cover them quite tight 
 with paper, and they will keep for any length of time 
 without receiving the leaft injury. Without thefe pre¬ 
 cautions, all art and endeavours will prove ineffectual. 
 
 Apricots. 
 
 GATHER your apricots before the ftones become 
 hard, put them into a pan of cold fpring w'ater with plen¬ 
 ty of vine leaves; fet them over a flow fire till they are 
 quite yellowy then take them out, and rub them with a 
 flannel and fait to take off the lint. Put them into the 
 pan to the fame water and leaves, cover them clofe, let 
 them at a good diftance from the fire till they are a fine 
 light green, then take them carefully up, and pick out all 
 the bad coloured and broken ones. Boil the beft gently 
 two or three times in a thin fyrup, and let them be quite 
 cold each time before you boil them. When they look 
 plump and clear, make a fyrup of double-refined fugar, 
 
 but 
 
238 PRESERVING 
 
 but not too thick ; give your apricots a gentle boil in it, 
 and then put them into your pots or glades. Dip paper 
 in brandy, lay it over them, tie it dole, and keep them 
 in a dry place for ufe. 
 
 Peaches. 
 
 GET the larged peaches you can, but do not Jet 
 them be too ripe. Rub off the lint with a cloth, and 
 then run them down the Team with a pin ikin deep, and 
 cover them with French brandy. Tie a bladder over 
 them, and let them dand a week. Then take them out, 
 and make adrong fyrup for them. Boil and fkim it well, 
 then put in your peaches, and boil them till they look 
 clear; then take them out, and put them into pots, or 
 glaffes. Mix the fyrup with the brandy, and when it is 
 cold, pour it on your peaches. Tie them fo clofe down 
 with a bladder, that no air can come to them, other wife 
 they will turn black, and be totally fpoiled. 
 
 Quinces. 
 
 THESE may be preferved either whole, or in quar¬ 
 ters, and mud be done thus: Pare them very thin and 
 round, put them into a faucepan, fill it with hard water, 
 and lay the parings over the quinces to keep them down. 
 Cover your faucepan clofe, that none of the deam may 
 get out, fet them over a flow fire till they are foft, and 
 of a fine pink colour, and then let them dand till they 
 are cold. Make a good fyrup of double-refined fugar, 
 and boil and fkim it well; then put in your quinces, let 
 them boil ten minutes, take them off, and let them dand 
 two or three hours. Then boil them till the fyrup looks 
 thick, and the quinces clear. Put them into deep jars, 
 with the fyrup, and cover them dole with brandy-paper 
 and leather. 
 
 Barberries. 
 
 TO preferve barberries for tarts, you mud proceed 
 thus : Pick the female branches clean from the dalk j— 
 take their weight of loaf fugar, and put them into a jar. 
 Set them in a kettle of boiling water till the fugar is 
 melted, and the barberries quite foft, and then let them 
 dand all night. The next day put them into a preferving- 
 ' pan, 
 
FRUITS, &c. 239 
 
 pan, and boil them fifteen minutes, then put them into 
 jars, tie them elofe, and fet them by for ufe. 
 
 If you intend to preferve your barberries in bunches, 
 you muft proceed as follows: Having procured the fineft 
 female barberries, feledt all the Iargeft branches, and then 
 pick the reft from the ftalks. Put them in as much 
 water as will make a fyrup for your bunches. Boil them 
 till they are foft, then ftrain them through a fieve, and to 
 every pint of the juice, put a pound and a half of loaf 
 fugar. Boil and fkitn it well, and to every pint of fyrup, 
 put half a pound of barberries in bunches. Boil them till 
 they look very fine and clear, then put them carefully 
 into pots or glaftes, and tie them elofe down with paper 
 dipped in brandy. 
 
 Pine Apples. 
 
 THESE muft be taken before they are ripe, and laid 
 in ftrong fait and water for five days. Then put into the 
 bottom of a large faucepan a handful of vine-leaves, and 
 put in your pine-apples. Fill your pan with vine-leaves, 
 and then pour in the fait and water they were laid in.— 
 Cover it up very elofe, fet them over a flow fire, and let 
 them ftand till they are of a fine light green. Have 
 ready a thin fyrup, made of a quarc of water, and a 
 pound of double refined fugar. When it is almoft cold, 
 put it into a deep jar, and put in the pine-apples with, 
 their tops on. Let them ftand a week, and take care 
 they are well covered with the fyrup. When they have 
 flood a week, boil your fyrup again, and pour it carefully 
 into your jar, left you break the tops of your pine-apples. 
 Let it ftand eight or ten weeks, and during that tunc 
 give the fyrup two or three boilings to keep it from 
 moulding. Let your fyrup ftand till it is near cold 
 before you put it on ; and when your pine-apples look 
 quite full and green, take them out of the fyrup, and 
 make a thick fyrup of three pounds of double-refined 
 fugar, with as much water as will diflblve it. Boil and 
 fkim it well, put a few dices of white ginger into it, and 
 when it is nearly cold, pour it upon your pine-apples.— 
 Tie them down elofe with a bladder, and they will keep 
 many years without fhrinking. 
 
 n 
 
 2 
 
 Graphs 
 
*240 
 
 PRESERVING 
 
 Grapes . 
 
 TAKE lome clofe bunches (whether white or .red 
 is immaterial) not too ripe, and lay them in a jar. Put 
 to them a quarter of a pound of fugar-candy, and fill 
 the jar with common brandy. Tie them up clofe with a 
 bladder, and fet them in a dry place. 
 
 Morello Cherries. 
 
 GATHER your cherries when they are full ripe, take 
 off the (talks, and prick them with a pin. To every 
 pound of cherries, put a pound and a half of loaf-fugar. 
 Beat part of your fugar, drew it over them, and let them 
 ftand all night. Diffolve the reft of yonr fugar in half a 
 pint of the juice of currants, fet it over a flow fire, and 
 put in the cherries with the fugar, and give them a gentle 
 fcald. Then take them carefully out, boil your fyrup 
 till it is thick, pour it upon your cherries, and tie 
 them down clofe. 
 
 Green Codlins. 
 
 GAT PIER them when they are about the fize of a 
 large walnut, with the (talks and a leaf or two on them. 
 Put a handful of vine leaves into a pan of fpring-water; 
 then put a layer of codlins, then one of vine-leaves, and fo 
 on till the pan is full. Cover it clofe to prevent the (team 
 getting out, and fet it on a flow fire. When you find 
 them foft, take off the (kins with a penknife, and then 
 put them in the fame water with the vine-leaves, which 
 rauft be quite cold, otherwife they will be apt to crack. 
 Put in a little roach allum, and fet them over a very flow 
 fire till they are green, which will be in three or four 
 hours. Then take them out, and lay them on a fieve to 
 drain. Make a good fyrup, and give them a gentle boil 
 once a day for three days. Then put them into final! 
 jars, cover them clofe with brandy-paper, tie them down 
 tight, and fet them in a dry place. They will keep all 
 the year. 
 
 Golden Pippins. 
 
 BOIL the rind of an orange very tender, and let it lay 
 in water two or three days. Take a quart of golden pip¬ 
 pins. 
 
FRUITS, &c> 
 
 pins, pare, core, quarter, and boil them to a ftrong jelly, 
 and run it through a jelly-bag. Then take twelve of me 
 larged pippins, pare them, and fcrape ouc the cores. Put 
 a pint of water into a dew-pan, with two pounds of loaf- 
 fugar. When it boils, fkim it, and put in your pippins, 
 with the orange-rind in thin dices. Let them boil fall 
 till the fugar is very thick, and will almod candy. Then 
 put a pint of the pippin-jelly, and boil them fad till the 
 jelly is quite clear. Then fqueeze in the juice of a lemon, 
 give it a boil, and, with the orange-peel, put them into 
 pots or glades, and cover them clofe. 
 
 Green Gage Plumbs. 
 
 GET the fined plumbs you can, gathered jud before 
 they are ripe. Put a layer of vine-leaves at the bottom 
 of your pan, then a layer of plumbs, and then vine-leaves 
 and plumbs alternately, till the pan is nearly filled. Then 
 put in as much water as it will hold, fet it over a dow fire, 
 and when the plumbs are hot, and begin to crack, take 
 them off, and pare off the fkins very carefully, putting 
 them into a fieve as you do them. Then lay them in 
 the dame water, with a layer of leaves between, as you 
 did at fird, and cover them fo clofe that no deam can get 
 out. Hang them at a great didance from the fire till 
 they are green, which will take at lead five or fix hours. 
 Then take them carefully up, lay them on a hair fieve to 
 drain, make a good fyrup, and give them a gentle boil 
 in it twice a day for two days. Then take them out, put 
 them into a fine clear fyrup, and cover them clofe down 
 with brandy-p3per. 
 
 Oranges. 
 
 TAKE what number of Seville-oranges you think 
 proper, cut a hole at the dalk end of each about the fizc 
 of a fix-pence, and fcoop out the puip quite clean. Tie 
 them feparately in pieces of muffin, and lay them in 
 fpring-water for two days. Change the water twice every 
 day, and then boil them in the mufiin on a flow fire till 
 they are quite tender. As the water wades, put more 
 Jhot water into the pan, and keep them covered. Weigh 
 the oranges before you fcoop them, and to every pound 
 VII. H h - put 
 
242 PRESERVING 
 
 put two pounds of double- refined fugar, and a pint of water. 
 Boil the fugar and water, with the juice of the oranges, to 
 a fyrup, (kim it well, let it ftand till it is cold, then take 
 the oranges out of the muflin, put them into the pan, and 
 let them boil half an hour. If they are not quite clear, 
 boil them once a day for two or three days. Then pare 
 and core fome green pippins, and boil them till the water 
 is ftrong of the apple ; but do not ftir them, and only put 
 them down with the back of a fpoon. Strain the water 
 through a jelly-bag till it is quite clear, and then to every 
 pint of water put a pound of double-refined fugar, and 
 the juice of a lemon (trained fine. Boil it up to a ftrong 
 jelly, drain the oranges out of the fyrup, and put them into 
 glafs jars, or pots the fize of an orange, with the holes 
 upwards. Pour the jelly over them, cover them with 
 papers dipped in brandy, and tie them clofe down with a 
 bladder. You may preferve lemons in the fame manner. 
 
 Rafberries. 
 
 GATHER your rafberries on a dry day, when they 
 are juft turning red, with the (talks on about an. inch 
 long. Lay them fingly on a difh, then beat and fift their 
 weight of double-refined fugar, and drew it over them. 
 To every quart of rafberries take a quart of red-currant 
 jelly juice, and put to it its weight of double-refined 
 fugar. Boil and fkim it well, then put in your raiber- 
 ries, and give them a fcald. Take them off, and let them 
 ftand for two hours. Then fet them on again, and make 
 them a little hotter. Proceed in this manner two or 
 three times till they look clear; but do not let them boil, 
 as that will make the (talks come off. When they are 
 tolerably cool, put them into jelly-glades with the (talks 
 downwards. White rafberries muft be preferved in the 
 fame manner, only obferving, that inftead of red, you 
 ufe white currant juice. 
 
 Strawberries. 
 
 GATHER the fineft fcarlet ftrawberries you can, with 
 the (talks on, before they are too ripe. Lay them fe- 
 parately on a china di(h, then beat and fift twice their 
 
 weight 
 
FRUITS, &c. 243 
 
 weight of double-refined fugar, and ftrew it over them. 
 Take a few ripe fcarlet ftrawberries, crufh them, and 
 put them into a jar, with their weight of double-refined 
 fugar beat fmall. Cover them clofe, and let them itand 
 in a kettle of boiling water till they are foft, and the fyrup 
 is extracted from them. Then drain them through a 
 muflin rag into a preferving-pan, boil and fkim it well, 
 and when it is cold, put in your whole ftrawberries, and 
 fet them over the fire till they are milk-warm. Then 
 take them off, and let them ftand till they are quite cold. 
 Set them on again, and make them a little hotter, and 
 do fo leveral times till they look clear; but do not let 
 them boil, as that will bring off their ftalks. When the 
 ftrawberries are cold, put them into jelly-glaffes, with the 
 ftalks downwards, and fill up your glaftes with the fyrup. 
 Put over them papers dipped in brandy, and tie them 
 down clofe. 
 
 Currants in Bunches. 
 
 STONE them, and tie fix or feven bunches together 
 with a thread to a piece of fplit deal about four inches 
 long. Put them into the preferving-pan with their weight 
 of double-refined fugar beaten and finely fifted, and let 
 them ftand all night. Then take fome pippins, pare, 
 core, and boil them, and prefs them down with the back 
 of a fpoon, but do not ftir them. When the water is 
 ftrong of the apple, add to it the juice of a lemon, and 
 ftrain it through a jelly-bag till it runs quite clear. To 
 every pint of your liquor put a pound of double-refined 
 fugar, and boil it up to a ftrong jelly. Then put it to 
 your currants, and boil them till they look clear. Cover 
 them in the preferving-pan with paper till they are al- 
 moft cold, and then put the bunches of currants into your 
 glafles, and fill them up with jelly. When they are cold, 
 wet papers in brandy and lay over them; then put over 
 them another paper, and tie them up clofe. This me¬ 
 thod muft be purfued with either white or red currants. 
 
 To preferve currants for tarts, you muft proceed thus : 
 To every pound of currants take a pound of fugar. Put 
 your fugar into a preferving-pan, with as much juice of 
 currants as will diffolve it. When it boils, fkim it, put 
 
 PI h 2 in 
 
244 PRESERVING 
 
 in your currants, and boil them till they are clear. Put 
 them into a jar, lay brandy-paper over them; and tie 
 them down clofe. 
 
 Goofeberries. 
 
 GET the larged green goofeberries you can, and pick 
 off the black eye, but not the ftalk. Set them over the 
 fire in a pot of water to fcald, but do not let them boil, as 
 that will fpoil them, When they are tender, take them 
 up, and put them into cold water. Then take a pound 
 and a half of double-refined fugar to a pound of goofe¬ 
 berries, and clarify the fugar with water, a pint to a pound 
 of fugar. When your fyrup is cold, put the goofeberries 
 fingly into your preferving-pan, put the fyrup to them, 
 and fet them on a gentle fire. Let them boil, but not fo 
 faft as to break them ; and when they have boiled, and 
 you perceive the fugar has entered them, take them off, 
 cover them with white paper, and fet them by all night. 
 The next day, take them out of the fyrup, and boil the 
 fyrup till it begins to be ropy. Skim it, and put it to them 
 again: fet them on a flow' fire, and let them fimmer 
 gently till you perceive the fyrup will rope. Then take 
 them off, fet them by till they are cold, and cover them 
 with brandy paper. 
 
 If you preferve red goofeberries, you mu ft proceed 
 thus: put a pound of loaf-fugar into a preferving-pan, 
 with as much water as will diffolve it, and boil and fkim 
 it well. Then put in a quart of rough red goofeberries, 
 and let them boil a little Set them by till tire next day, 
 and then boil them till they look clear, and the fyrup is 
 thick. Then put them into pots, or glaffes, and cover 
 them with brandy paper. 
 
 Goofeberries in Imitation of Hops . 
 
 TAKE the largeft green walnut goofeberries you can 
 get, and cut them a: the ftalk end into four quarters.—- 
 Leave them whole at the bloffom end, take out all the 
 feeds, and put five or fix one in another. Take a 
 needleful of ftrong thread, with a large knot at the end; 
 run the needle through the bunch of goofeberries, tie a 
 knot to fatten them together, and they will relemble 
 
FRUITS, &c. 245 
 
 hops. Put cold fpring water into your pan, with a large 
 handful of vine leaves at the bottom ; then three or four 
 layers of gaofeberries, with plenty of vine leaves between 
 every layer, and over the top of your pan. Cover it fo 
 that no (team can get out, and fet them on a flow fire. 
 Take them off as loon as they are lealding hot, and let 
 them Hand till they are cold. Then fet them on again 
 till they are of a good green, then take them off, and let 
 them Hand till they are quite cold. Put them into, a fieve 
 to drain, and make a thin fyrup thus: To every pint of 
 water put in a pound of common loaf fugar, and boil it 
 and flvim it well. When it is about half cold, put in 
 your goofeberries, let them Hand till the next day, give 
 them one boil a-day for three days. Then make a fyrup 
 thus: To every pint of water put in a pound of fine 
 fugar, a flice of ginger, and a lemon-peel cut length¬ 
 ways very fine. Boil and lkim it well, give your goofe¬ 
 berries a boil in it, and when they are cold, put them into 
 glades or pots, lay brandy-paper over them, and tie them 
 up clofe. 
 
 Damfons. 
 
 PUT your damfons into a fkillet over the fire, with as 
 much water as will cover them. When they have boiled, 
 and the liquor is pretty ftrong, drain it out and add to 
 every pound of damfons wiped clean, a pound of fingle- 
 refined fugar. Put one-third of your fugar into the li¬ 
 quor, fecit over the fire, and when it fimmers put in the 
 damfons. Let them have one good boil, then take 
 them off, and cover them up dole for half an hour. 
 Then fet them on again, and let them fimmer over the 
 fire after turning them. Then take them out, put them 
 into a bafon, ftrew all the fugar that was left on them, 
 and pour the hot liquor over them. Cover them up, 
 let them fiand till the next day, and then boil them up 
 again till they are enough. Then take them up, and 
 put them in pots; boil the liquor till it jellies, and when 
 it is almoft cold, pour it on them. Cover them with 
 paper, tie them dole, and fet them in a dry place. 
 
 Walnuts . 
 
2 lf> 
 
 PRESERVING ' 
 
 Walnuts. 
 
 THERE are three different ways of preferving wal¬ 
 nuts, namely, white, black, and green. To preferve 
 them white, you mull pare them till the white appears 
 and nothing elfe. As you do them, throw them into 
 fait and water, and let them lie there till your fugar is 
 ready. Take three pounds of good loaf fugar, put it 
 into your preferving-pan, fet it over a charcoal fire, and 
 put as much water to it as will juft wet the fugar. Let 
 it boil, and have ready ten or twelve whites of eggs 
 ftrained and beat up to a froth. Cover your fugar with 
 the froth as it boils, and fkim it. Then boil and fkim 
 it till it is as clear as chryftal, and throw in your wal¬ 
 nuts. Juft give them a boil till they are tender, then 
 take them out, and lay them in a difh to cool. When 
 they are cold, put them in your preferving-pot, and pour 
 the fugar as warm as milk over them. When they are 
 quite cold tie them up. 
 
 In preferving walnuts black, you muft proceed thus : 
 Take thofe of the fmaller kind, put them into fait and 
 water, and change the water every day for nine days.— 
 Then put them into a fieve, and let them ftand in the air 
 till they begin to turn black. Then put them into a jug, 
 pour boiling water over them, and let them ftand till the 
 next day. Put them into a fieve to drain, ftick a clove 
 in each end of the walnuts, put them into a pan of boiling 
 water and let them boil five minutes. Then take them 
 up, make a thin fyrup, and feald them in it three or four 
 times a day, till your walnuts are black and bright.—» 
 Then make a thick lyrup with a few cloves, and a little 
 ginger cut in flices. Skim it well, pour in your walnuts, 
 boil them five or fix minutes, and then put them into 
 jars. Lay brandy-paper over them, and tie them down 
 dole with a bladder. The longer they are kept, the 
 better they will eat, as time takes off their bitternefs. 
 
 Green walnuts muft be prepared by the following 
 mode : Wipe them very dry, and lay them in fait and 
 water for twenty-four hours. Then take them out, and 
 wipe them very clean. Have ready a fkiilet of boiling 
 water, threw them in, let them boil a minute, and then 
 2 ' ' take 
 
FRUIT S, &c. 247 
 
 take them out. Lay them on a coarfe cloth, and boil 
 your fugar as dire&ed for the white walnuts. Then juft; 
 give them a fcald in the fugar, take them up, and lay 
 them to cool. Put them into your preferving-pot, and 
 proceed as directed for the preferving of white walnuts. 
 
 Cucumbers. 
 
 TAKE the greenifh cucumbers, and the mod free 
 from feeds you can get; fome fmall to preferve whole, 
 and others large to cut into pieces. Put them into ftrong 
 fait and water in a ftraight mouthed jar, with a cabbage- 
 leaf to keep them down. Set them in a warm place 
 till they are yellow, then walh them out, and fet them 
 over the fire in frelh water, with a little fait, and a frefh 
 cabbage-leaf over them. Cover the pan very clofe, but 
 take care they do not boil. If they are not of a fine 
 green, change your water, and that will help them. 
 Then cover them as before, and make them hot. 
 When they become of a good green, take them off the 
 fire, and let them Rand till they are cold. Then cut the 
 large ones into quarters, take out the feed and foft part, 
 then put them into cold water, and let them (land two 
 days; but change the water twice every day to take out' 
 the fait. Take a pound of Tingle-refined fugar, and half 
 a pint of water; fet it over the fire, and, when you have 
 fkimmed it clean, put in the rind of a lemon, and an 
 ounce of ginger with the outfide fcraped off. When your 
 fyrup is pretty thick, take it off; and when cold, wipe 
 the cucumbers dry, and put them in. Boil the fyrup 
 once in two or three days for three weeks, and {Lengthen 
 it, if neceflary. When you put the fyrup to your cu¬ 
 cumbers, be lure that it is quite cold.—Cover them 
 clofe, and fet them in a dry place. 
 
 SECT. V. 
 
 DRYING and CANDYING. 
 
 BEFORE you proceed to dry and candy any kind of 
 fruit, let it be firft preferved, and fo dried in a Rove, or 
 before the fire, that ail the fyrup may be totally extracted. 
 
 When 
 
24§ CANDYING, &c. 
 
 ' When you have boiled your fugar to the candy height, 
 dip in the fruit, and lay them in difhes in your ftove to 
 dry; then put them into boxes and keep them in a 
 place where they cannot receive injury either from heat 
 or damp. 
 
 Juried Apricots * 
 
 TAKE as many apricots as will amount to about a 
 pound weight, pare and Hone them, and then put them 
 into a preferving-pan. Pound and fift half a pound of 
 double-refined fugar, ftrew a little among them, and lay 
 the reft over them. When they have been twenty-four 
 hours in this ftate, turn them three or four times in the 
 fyrup, and then boil them pretty quick till they look 
 clear. When they are cold, take them out, and lay 
 them on glaffcs. Then put them into a ftove, and turn 
 them theiirft day every half hour, the fecond day every 
 hour, and fo on till they are perfectly dry. Put them 
 into boxes covered, and let them by for uie. 
 
 Dried Peaches. 
 
 PARE and ftone fome of the nneft peaches you can 
 get; then put them into a laucepan of boiling water, 
 let them boil till they are tender, and then lay them on 
 a fieve to drain. Put them again into the fame fauce- 
 pan, and cover them with their own weight in fugar.—* 
 Let them lie two or three hours, and then boil them till 
 they 'are clear, and the fyrup pretty thick. Cover them 
 clofe, and let them ftand all night j fcald them well, and 
 then take them off to cool. When they are quite cold, 
 let them on again till they are thoroughly hot, and con¬ 
 tinue this for three or four days. Then lay them on 
 plates, and turn them every day till they are quite dry. 
 
 Candied Angelica. 
 
 CUT your angelica in lengths when young, cover it 
 clofe, and boil it till it is tender. Then peel it, put it in 
 again, and let it fimmer and boil till it is green. Then 
 take it up, dry it with a 'cloth, and to every pound of 
 ftalks put a pound of fugar. Put your ftalks into an 
 earthen pan, beat your fugar, ftrew it over them, and 
 
C A ND YING, ec. 249 
 
 let them ftand two days. Then boil it till it is clear and 
 green, and put it in a cullender to drain. Beat another 
 pound of fugar to powder, and drew it over the angelica ; 
 then lay it on plates, and let it ftand in a flack oven till 
 it is thoroughly dry. 
 
 Green Gage Phmbs dried. 
 
 MAKE a thin fyrup of half a pound of Angle-refined ^ 
 fugar, ,fkim it well, flit a pound of plumbs down the 
 (earn, and put them into the fyrup. Keep them fcalding 
 hot till they are tender, and take care they are well cover¬ 
 ed with fyrup, or they will lofe their colour. Let them 
 fland all night, and then make a rich fyrup thus: To a 
 pound of double-refined fugar put two fpoonsful of water, 
 Ikim it well, and boil it almoft to a candy. When it is 
 cold, drain your plumbs out of the firft fyrup, and put 
 them into the thick fyrup; but be careful to let the' fyrup 
 cover them. Set them on the fire to fcald till they look 
 clear, and then put them in a china bowl. When they 
 have flood a week, take them out, and lay them on china 
 difhes. Then put them into a ftove, and turn them once 
 a day till they are dry. 
 
 Dried Cherries. 
 
 T AKE what quantity of morello cherries you think 
 proper, ftone them, and to every pound of cherries put a 
 pound and a quarter of fine fugar; beat and fift it over 
 your cherries, and let them ftand all night. Then take 
 them out of their fugar, and to every pound of fugar put 
 two fpoonsful of water. Boil and fkim it well, and then 
 put in your cherries. Let your lugar boil over them, the 
 next morning (train them, and to every pound of fyrup 
 put half a pound more fugar. Boil it till it is a little 
 thicker, then put in your cherries, and let them boil 
 gently. The next day (train them, put them into a ftove, 
 and turn them every day till they are dry. 
 
 Dried. Damfons. 
 
 GATHER your damfons when they are full ripe, 
 fpread them on a coarfe cloth, and fet them in a very 
 cool oven. Let them ftand a day or two, and if they are 
 VII. 1 i I not 
 
250 CANDYING, &c. 
 
 not then properly dried, put them in for a day or two 
 longer. Then take them out, lay them in a dry place, 
 and they will eat like frefh plumbs, though even in the 
 midft of winter. 
 
 Candied Cajfid. 
 
 T AKE as much of the powder of brown caffia as will 
 lie upon a half-crown, with as much mufk and amber¬ 
 gris as you think proper. Pound them both well toge¬ 
 ther. Then take a quarter of a pound of fugar, boil it 
 to a candy height, put in your powder, and mix it well 
 together. Pour it into faucers, which mud be buttered 
 very thin, and when it is cold, it will flip out. 
 
 Lemon and Orange Peels candied. 
 
 CUT your lemons or oranges long-ways, take out all 
 the pulp, and put the rinds into a pretty ftrong fait and 
 hard water for fix days. Then boil them in a large 
 quantity of fpring water till they are tender. Take them 
 out, and lay them on a hair fleve to drain. Then make 
 a thin fyrup of fine loaf fugar, a pound to a quart of 
 water. Put in your peels, and boil them half an hour, 
 or till they look clear, and have ready a thick fyrup, 
 made of fine loaf fugar, with as much water as will dif- 
 folve it. Put in your peels, and boil them over a flow 
 fire till you fee the fyrup candy about the pan and peels.. 
 Then take them out, and grate fine fugar all over them. 
 Lay them on a hair fleve to drain, and fet them in a ftove, 
 or before the fire, to dry. 
 
 Candied Ginger. 
 
 TAKE an ounce of race ginger grated fine, a pound 
 of loaf fugar beat fine, and put them into a preferving- 
 pan with as much water as will diffolve the fugar. Stir 
 them well together over a very flow fire till the fugar 
 begins to boil. Then ftir in another pound of fugar beat 
 fine, and keep flirting it till it grows thick. Then take 
 it off the fire, and drop it in cakes upon earthen difhes. 
 Set them in a warm place to dry, and they will be hard 
 and brittle, and look white. 
 
 4 
 
 Orange 
 
CANDYING, &c. 251 
 
 Orange Chips. 
 
 GET fome of the bed Seville oranges you can, pare 
 them at lead about a quarter of an inch broad, and if you 
 can keep the parings whole, they will have a pretty effect. 
 When you have pared as many as you intend, put them 
 into fait and fpring water, for a day or two j then boil 
 them in a large quantity of fpring-water till they are ten¬ 
 der, and drain them on a fieve. Have ready a thin fy- 
 rup made of a quart of water and a pound of fugar. Boil 
 them, a few at a time, to keep them from breaking, till 
 they look clear. Then put them into a fyrup made of 
 fine loaf-fugar, with as much water as will diffolve it, 
 and boil them to a candy height. When you take them 
 up, lay them on a fieve, and grate double-refined fugar 
 over them. Then put them in a dove, or before the fire 
 to dry. 
 
 Orange Marmalade. 
 
 GET the cleared Seville oranges you can, cut them in 
 two, take out all the pulp and juice into a bafon, and 
 pick all the fkins and feeds out of it. Boil the rinds in 
 hard water till they are tender, and change the water two 
 or three times while they are boiling. Then pound them 
 in a marble mortar, and add to it the juice and pulp. 
 Then put them in the preferving-pan with double its 
 weight of loaf-fugar, and fet it over a (low fire. Boil it 
 rather more than half an hour, put it into pots, cover it 
 with brandy paper, and tie it clofe down. 
 
 Apricot Marmalade. 
 
 APRICOTS that are too ripe for keeping bed anfwer 
 this purpofe. Boil them in fyrup till they will mafh, and 
 then beat them in a marble mortar to a pade. Take 
 half their weight of loaf-fugar, and addjud water enough 
 to diffolve it. Boil and fkim it till it looks clear, and 
 the fyrup thick like a fine jelly. Then put it into your 
 fweetmeat glaffcs, and tie it up clofe. 
 
 Quince Marmalade. 
 
 THESE mud like wife be full ripe for the purpofe of 
 making marmalade. Pare them, and cut them into 
 quarters 3 then take out the cores, and put the fruit into a 
 
 I i 2 faucepan 
 
252 CANDYING, &c. 
 
 faucepan. Cover them with the parings; nearly fill the 
 faucepan with fpring-water, cover it clofe, and let them 
 flew over a flow fire till they are foft and of a pink co¬ 
 lour. Then pick out the quinces from the parings, aad 
 beat them to a pulp in a marble mortar. Take their 
 weight of fine loaf fugar, put as much water to it as will 
 diffolve it, and boil and fkim it well. Then put in your 
 quinces, boil them gently three quarters of an hour, and 
 keep ftirring them all the time. When it,is cold, put it 
 Into flat pots, tie it down clofe, and fet it by for life. 
 
 Trav/parent Marmalade. ■ 
 
 CUT very pale Seville oranges into quarters, take out 
 the pulp, put it into a bafon, and pick out the fkins and 
 feeds. Put the peels into a little fait and water, and let 
 them (land all night. Then boil them in a good quantity 
 of fpring-water till they are tender, cut them in very thin 
 flices, and put them to the pulp. To every pound of mar¬ 
 malade put a pound and a half of double-refined fugar, 
 finely beaten, and boil them together gently for twenty 
 minutes ; but if not clear and tranfparent in that time, 
 boil it five or fix minutes longer. Keep ftirring it gently 
 all the time, and take care you do not break the flices. 
 When it is cold, put it into jelly or fweetmeat glafles, and 
 tie them down tight with brandy-paper, and a bladder 
 over them, 
 
 Burnt Almonds. 
 
 TAKE two pound of almonds, and put them into a 
 flew-pan, with the fame quantity of fugar, and a pint of 
 water. Set them over a clear cool fire, and let them boil 
 till you find the almonds crack. Then take them off, 
 and ftir them about till they are quite dry. Put them in 
 a wire fieve, and fife all the fugar from them. Put the 
 fugar into the pan again with a little water, and give it a 
 boil. Then put four fpoonsful of fcraped cochineal to 
 the fugar to colour it, put the almonds into the pan, and 
 keep ftirring them over the lire till they are quite dry. 
 Then put them into a large glafs, and they will keep all 
 the year. 
 
 Rafoerry 
 
CANDYING, &c. 253 
 
 Rajberry Pajle. 
 
 MASH a quart of rafberries, drain one half, and put 
 the juice to the other half. Boil them a quarter of an 
 hour, put to them a pint of red currant juice, and let them 
 boil all together till your rafberries are enough. Then 
 put a pound and a half of double refined fugar into a pan, 
 with as much water as will didolve it, and boil it to a 
 fug^r again. Put in your rafberries and juice, give them 
 a fcald, and pour it into glades or plates. Then put them 
 into a dove, and turn them at times tiil they are tho¬ 
 roughly dry.. 
 
 • Currant Pafite. 
 
 CURRANT pade may be either red or white, ac¬ 
 cording to the colour of the currants you ufe. Strip your 
 currants, put a little juice to them to keep them from 
 burning, boil them well, and rub them through a hair 
 fieve. Then boil it a quarter of an hour, and to a pint 
 of juice put a pound and a half of double-refined fugar 
 pounded and lifted. Shake in your fugar, and when it is 
 melted, pour it on plates. Dry it in the fame manner as 
 the rafberry pade, and turn it into any form you like bed. 
 
 Goofeberry Pajle. 
 
 TAKE fome full grown red goofeberries, jud on the 
 turn for ripening, cut them in halves, and pick out all the 
 feeds. Have ready a pint of currant juice, and boil your 
 goofeberries in it till they are tender. Put a pound and a 
 half of double-refined fugar into your pan, with as much 
 water as will didolve it, and boil it to a fugar again. 
 Then put all together, and make it fcalding hot, but do 
 not let it boil. Pour it into your plates or glades, and 
 dry it as before directed. 
 
 SECT. VI. 
 
 ORNAMENTS in CONFECTIONARY. 
 
 Artificial Fruit. 
 
 AT a proper time of the year, take care to fave the 
 ftalks of the fruit, with the ftones to them. Get 
 
 fome 
 
254 ORNAMENTS IN 
 
 fome tins neatly made in the fhape of the fruit you intend 
 to imitate, leaving a hole at the top, to put in the ftone 
 and ftalk. They mult be fo contrived as to open in the 
 middle, to take out the fruit, and there muft alfo be made 
 a frame of wood to fix them in. Great care muft be 
 taken to make the tins very fmooth in the infide, other- 
 wife their roughnefs will mark the fruit; and that they be 
 made exaftly of the fhape of the fruit they are intended to 
 reprefent. Being prepared with your tins, proceed thus: 
 Take two cow-heels, and a calfs-foot, boil them in a 
 gallon of foft water till they are all boiled to rags, and 
 when you have a full quart of jelly, ftrain it through a 
 lieve. Then put it into a faucepan, fweeten it, put in 
 lemon-peel perfumed, and colour it like the fruit you 
 intend to imitate. Stir all together, give it a boil, and 
 fill your tins: then put in the (tones and the (talks juft as 
 the fruit grows, and when the jelly is quite cold, open 
 your tins, and put on the bloom, which may be done by 
 carefully dufting on powder-blue. Keep them covered 
 to prevent the duft getting to them ; and to the eye, art 
 will be an excellent (ubftitute for nature. 
 
 A Dijli of Snow. 
 
 TAKE twelve large apples, and put them into a fauce¬ 
 pan with cold water. Set them over a (low fire, and 
 when they are foft, pour them in a hair fieve ; take off 
 the (kins, and put the pulp into a bafon. Then beat the 
 whites of twelve eggs to a very ftrong froth; beat and fift 
 half a pound of double-refined fugar, and drew it into 
 the eggs. Work up the pulp of your apples to a ftrong 
 froth, then beat them all together till they are like a ftiff 
 fnow. Lay it upon a china difh, and heap it up as high 
 as you can. Set round it green knots of pafte, in imita¬ 
 tion of Chinefe rails, and (tick a fprig of myrtle in the 
 middle of the difh. 
 
 Moonjhine. 
 
 GET a piece of tin the fhape of a half-moon, as deep 
 as a half pint bafon, and one in the fnape of a large ftar, 
 and two or three lefler ones. Boil two calf’s feet in a 
 gallon of water till it comes to a quart, then ftrain it off, 
 
 and 
 
CONFECTIONARY. 255 
 
 and when cold, Ikitn off*the fat. Take half the jelly, and 
 fweeten it with fugar to your palate. Beat up the whites 
 of four eggs, ftir all together, over a flow fire till it boils, 
 and then run it through a flannel bag till clear. Put it in 
 a clean faucepan, and take an ounce of fweet almonds, 
 blanched, and beat very fine in a marble mortar, with 
 two fpoonsful of rofe-water, and two of orange flower- 
 water. Then drain it through a coarfe cloth, mix it with 
 the jelly, put in four fpoonsful of thick cream, and ftir it 
 all together till it boils. Then have ready the difh you 
 intend it for, lay the tin in the ftiape of a half-moon in 
 the middle, and the ftars round it. Lay little weights on 
 the tins, to keep them in the place where you put them. 
 Then pour the moonihine into the difh; and when it is 
 quite cold, take out the tins. Then fill up the vacancies 
 with clear calfs-feet jelly. You may colour your moon- 
 fhine with cochineal and chocolate, to make it look like 
 the Iky, and your moon and ftars will then fliine the 
 brighter. Garnifh it with rock candy fweetmeats. 
 
 Floating IJland. 
 
 T AKE a foup-difh of a fize proportioned to what you 
 intend to make : but a deep glafs fet cn a china difh, will 
 anfwer the purpofe better. Take a quart of the thickeft 
 cream you can get, and make it pretty fweet with fine 
 fugar. Pour in a gill of fack, grate in the yellow rind of 
 a lemon, and mill the cream till it is of a thick froth : 
 then carefully pour the thin from the froth into a difh. 
 Cut a French roll, or as many as you want, as thin as 
 you can, and put a layer of it as light as poflible on the 
 cream, then a layer of currant jelly, then a very thin 
 layer of roll, then hartfhorn jelly, then French roll, and 
 over that whip your froth which you faved off the cream, 
 well milled up, and lay it on the top as high as you can 
 heap it. Ornament the rim of your difh with figures, 
 fruits, or fweetmeats, as you pieafe. This looks very 
 pretty on the middle of a table, with candles round it; 
 and you may make it of as many different colours as you 
 fancy, according to what jellies, jams, or fweet-meats 
 you have. 
 
 Deftrt 
 
255 ORNAMENTS, &c. 
 
 Defert IJland. 
 
 TAKE a lump of pafte, and form it into a rock three 
 inches broad at the top; then colour it, and fet it in the 
 middle of a deep china difb. Set a caft figure on it, with 
 a crown on its head, and a knot of rock candy at its feet: 
 then make a roll of pafte an inch thick, and flick it on 
 the inner edge of the dilli, two parts round. Cut eight 
 pieces of eringo-roots, about three inches long, and fix 
 them upright to the roll of pafte on the edge. Make 
 gravel walks of (hot comfits round the. difh, and fet fmall 
 figures in them. Roll out feme pafte, and cut it open 
 like Chinefe rails. Bake it, and fix it on either fide of 
 the gravel-walks with gum, and form an entrance where 
 the Chinefe rails are,- with two pieces of eringo-root for 
 pillars. 
 
 Chinefe Temple or Obelifk . 
 
 T AKE an ounce of fine fugar, half an ounce of butter, 
 and four ounces of fine flour. Boil the fugar and butter 
 in a little water, and when it is cold, beat up an egg, and 
 put it to the water, fugar, and butter. Mix it with the 
 flour, and make it into a very ftiff pafte : then roll it as 
 thin as poflible, have a fet of tins in the form of a temple, 
 and put the pafte ypon them. Cut'it in what form you 
 pleafe upon the feparate parts of your tins, keeping them 
 feparate till baked; but take care to have the pafte ex¬ 
 actly the fize of the tins. When you have cut all them 
 parts, bake them in a flow oven, and when cold, take them 
 out of the tins, arid join the parts with ftrong ifinglafs and 
 water with a camel’s-hair bruth. Set them one upon the 
 other, as the forms of the tin moulds will direbt you. If 
 you cut it neatly, and the pafte is rolled very thin, it will 
 be a beautiful corner for a large table. If you have obe- 
 lifk moulds, you may make them the fame way for an 
 oppofite corner. Be careful to make the pillars ftronger 
 than the top, that they may not be crufhed by their weight. 
 
 Thele ornamental decorations in confectionary are cal¬ 
 culated to embeliifh grand entertainments, and it is certain 
 they have all a very pleafing effedl on the fight; but their 
 beauties depend entirely on the abilities and ingenuity of 
 'the artift. 
 
 CTIAP. 
 
(, -57 ) 
 
 CHAP. XXI. 
 
 PICKLING. 
 
 P ICKLES are effentially neceffary to be kept in all 
 houfes, but particularly fuch as contain large fami- 
 lies; nor will the prudent and judicious houfekeeper be 
 without them; and this for two reafons: firfb, to avoid 
 the inconvenience of fending for them when wanted; 
 and fecondly, from being allured that they are done as 
 they ought to be, that is, that they fhall have their 
 proper colour without that artifice which is likely to be 
 prejudicial to tnofe who ufe them. It is too com¬ 
 mon a. pradlice to make ufe of brafs utenfils in order 
 to give the pickles a fine green; but this pernicious 
 cuftorn is eafily avoided by heating the liquor, and 
 keeping it in a proper degree of warmth before you 
 pour it on the articles to be pickled. It is ufual to put 
 pickles into earthen jars, but ftone jars are by far the 
 bell, for though they are more expensive in the firft pur- 
 chafe, they will be found much cheaper in the end; the 
 earthen veffels are porous, and will confequently admit the 
 air, and fpoil the pickles, efpecially if they (land any length 
 of time; but this will not be the cafe with ftone jars.—* 
 Remember, that when you take any pickle out of your 
 jars, be fure never to do it with your fingers, as that will 
 fpoil the pickle; but always make ufe of a fpocn, which 
 
 you fhould keep entirely for that purpofe.-Having 
 
 mentioned thefe neceffary and general obfervations relative 
 to pickling, we fhall now proceed to particulars; begin¬ 
 ning with 
 
 Mangoes. 
 
 THE proper cucumbers to be ufed for; this purpofe 
 are thofe of the largeft fort, which muft be taken from 
 the vines before they are too ripe, or yellow at the ends. 
 Cut a piece out of the fide, and take out the feeds with an 
 apple-fcraper or a tea-fpoon. ' Then put them into very 
 ftrong fait and water for eight or nine days, or till they are 
 yellow. Stir theni well two or three times every day, and 
 VII, K k put 
 
25 § PICKLING. 
 
 put them into a pan with a large quantity of vine leaves 
 both over and under them. Beat a little roach-allum 
 very fine, and put it into the fait and water they came 
 out of. Pour it on your cucumbers, and fet them upon 
 a very flow fire for four or five hours, till they are pretty 
 green. Then take them out, and drain them in a hair 
 fieve, and when they are cold, put to them a little horfe- 
 radifh, then muftard-feed, two or three heads of garlick, 
 a few pepper-corns, a few green cucumbers fliced in 
 fmall pieces, then horfe-radifh, and the fame as before- 
 mentioned till you have filled them. Then take the 
 piece you cut out, and few it on with a large needle and 
 thread, and do all the reft in the fame manner. Have 
 ready the following pickle : To every gallon of vinegar 
 put an ounce of mace, the fame of cloves, tWo ounces of 
 fliced ginger, the fame of long pepper, Jamaica pepper, 
 three ounces of muftard-feed tied up in a bag, four 
 ounces of garlick, and a (tick of horfe-radifh cut in 
 flices. Boil them five minutes in the vinegar, then pour 
 it upon your pickles, tie them down clofe, and keep 
 them for ufe. 
 
 Gerkins. 
 
 PUT a quantity of fpring water into a large earthen 
 pan, and to every gallon put two pounds of fait. Mix: 
 them well together, and throw in five hundred gerkins. 
 When they have been two hours in the fait and water, 
 take them out, and put them to drain ; and when they 
 are thoroughly dry, put them into your jar. Take a 
 gallon of the beft white-wine vinegar, and put it into a 
 laucepan, with half an ounce of cloves and mace, an 
 ounce of allfpice, the fame quantity of muftard-feed, a 
 ftiek of horfe-radifh cut in flices, ftx bay-leaves, two Or 
 three races of ginger, a-nutmeg cut in pieces, and a hahd- 
 ful of lalt. Boil up all together, and pour it over the 
 gerkins. Cover them clofe down, and let them (land 
 twenty-four hours. Then put them into your faucepan, 
 and let them fimmer over the fire dll they are green;- but 
 be careful not to let them boil, as that will fpoil them. 
 Then put them into your jar, and cover them clofe 
 down till they are cold. Then tie them over with a 
 
 bladder 
 
PICKLING. 259 
 
 bladder and a piece of leather, and put them in a dry cold 
 place. 
 
 Cucumbers. 
 
 FOR the purpofe of pickling, chufe the fmallefc 
 cucumbers you can get, and be cateful they are as free 
 from fpots as pofhble. Put them into ftrong fait and 
 water for nine or ten days, or till they are quite yellow, 
 and Fir them twice a day, at leaft, or they will grow 
 fofc. When they are perfectly yellow, pour the water 
 from them, and cover them with plenty of vine leaves. 
 Set your water over the fire, and when it boils, pour it 
 upon them, and fet them upon the hearth to keep 
 warm. When the water is nearly cold, make it boiling 
 hot again, and pour it upon them. Proceed in this 
 manner till you perceive they are of a fine green, which 
 they will be in four or five times. Be careful to keep 
 them well covered with vine leaves, with a cloth and 
 difh over the top, to keep in the fleam, which will help to 
 green them the fooner. When they are greened, put 
 them in a hair fieve to drain, and then make the following 
 pickle for them : To every two quarts of white wine 
 vinegar, put half an ounce of mace, or tenor twelve cloves, 
 an ounce of ginger cut into flices, the fame of black pep¬ 
 per, and a handful of fait. Boil them all together for five 
 minutes, pour it hot upon your pickles/ and tie them 
 down with a bladder for ufe. 
 
 Cucumbers in Slices. 
 
 TAKE fome large cucumbers before they are too ripe, 
 flice them of the thicknefs of a crown-piece, and put 
 them into a pewter difh. To every dozen of cucumbers 
 flice two large onions thin, and fo on till you have filled 
 your difh, or have got the quantity you intend to pickle; 
 but remember to put a handful of fait between every 
 row. Then cover them with another pewter difh, and 
 let them hand twenty-four hours. Then put them into 
 a cullender, and when they are thoroughly dry, put them 
 into a jar, cover them over with white wine vinegar, and 
 let them hand four hours. Pour the vinegar from them 
 into a faucepan, and boil it with a little fait. Put to the 
 
 K k 2 . cucumbers 
 
2 So PICKLIN G. 
 
 cucumbers a little mace, a little whole pepper, a large 
 race of ginger Diced, and then pour on them the boiling 
 vinegar. Cover, them clofe, and when they are cold, tie 
 them down, and they will be ready for ufe in a few days. 
 
 Walnuts. 
 
 THERE are various methods of pickling walnuts, in 
 order to, have them of different colours, the number of 
 which are four, namely, black, white, olive-colour, and 
 green; each of which we fhall defcribe in their pro¬ 
 per order. 
 
 To pickle walnuts blacky you mud gather them before 
 'the lhell gets too hard, which may be known by running 
 a pin into them, and always gather them when the fun is 
 hot upon them. Put them into ftrong fait and water for 
 nine days, and ftir them twice a day, obferving to change 
 the fait and water every three days. Then put them into 
 a hair, fieve, and let them (land in the air till they turn 
 black. Put them into ftrong done jars, and pour boiling 
 vinegar over them; cover them up, and let them ftand 
 till they are cold. Then give the vinegar three more 
 boilings, pour it each time on the walnuts, and let it 
 Hand till it is cold between every boiling. Then tie 
 them down with paper and a bladder over them, and let 
 them ftand two months. When that time has elapled, 
 take them out of the vinegar, and make a pickle for 
 them thus : To every two quarts of vinegar put half an 
 ounce of mace, and the fame of cloves, of black pepper, 
 Jamaica pepper, long pepper, and ginger, an ounce 
 each, and two ounces of common fait. Boil it ten 
 minutes, then pour it hot on your walnuts, tie them clofe 
 down, and cover them with paper and a bladder. 
 
 To pickle walnuts white , you mult proceed thus;— 
 Having procured a fufficient quantity of walnuts, of the 
 largeft ftze, and taken the before-mentioned precaution 
 that the (hells are not too hard, pare them very thin till 
 the white appears, and throw them into fpring water and 
 a handful of fait as you do them. Let them lay in that 
 water fix hours, and put a thin board upon them to keep 
 them under the water. Then fet a ftew-pan with fome 
 clean fpring water on a charcoal fire. Take your nuts 
 
 out 
 
PICKLING. 261 
 
 out of the water, put them into the ftew-pan, and let 
 them fimmer four or five minutes, but be careful they do 
 not boil. Then have ready a pan of fpring water with a 
 handful of falc in it, and ftir it till the fait is melted; then 
 take your nuts out of the ftew-pan with a wooden ladle, 
 or lpoon, and put them into the cold water and fait. 
 Let them (land a quarter of an hour, with the board lying 
 on them to keep them down as before; for if they are not 
 kept under the liquor they will turn biack. Then lay 
 them on a cloth, and put them into your jar, with fome 
 blades of mace and nutmeg diced thin. Mix your fpice 
 between your nuts, and pour diflilled vinegar over them. 
 When your jar is properly filled with nuts, pour mutton 
 fat over them, tie them down dole with a bladder and lea¬ 
 ther, and fet them in a dry place. 
 
 Walnuts to be pickled of an olive colour y muft be 
 managed thus : Having gathered your walnuts with the 
 fame precautions as before directed, put them into firong 
 ale allegar, and tie them down under a baddei and paper 
 to keep out the air. Let them Hand twelve months, 
 then take them out of the allegar, and make for them a 
 pickle of ftrong allegar. To every quart, put half an 
 ounce of Jamaica pepper, the fame of long pepper, a 
 quarter of an ounce of mace, the lame of cloves, a head 
 of gariick, and a little fait. Boil them all together five or 
 fix minutes, and then pour it upon your walnuts. As it 
 gets cold, boil it again three times, and pour it on them. 
 Then tie them down with a bladder and ( paper over it; 
 and if your allegar is good, they will keep feveral years, 
 without either turning colour or growing loft. You may 
 make very good catchup of the allegar that comes from 
 the walnuts, by adding a pound of anchovies, an ounce 
 of cloves, the fame of long and black pepper, a head of 
 gariick, and half a pound of common ialt, to every gallon 
 of allegar. Boil it till it is half reduced, and fkim it well. 
 Then bottle it for ufe, and it will keep a great while. 
 
 To pickle walnuts green , proceed as follows : Make 
 choice of the large double or French walnuts, gathered 
 before the fhells are hard. Wrap them fingly in vine 
 
 leaves, put a few vine leaves in the bottom of your jar, 
 
 and 
 
2 S 2 PICKLING. 
 
 and nearly fill it with your walnuts. Take care they do 
 not touch one another, and put a good many leaves over 
 them. Then fill your jar with good allegar, cover them 
 dole that the air cannot get in, and let them (land for 
 three weeks. Then pour the allegar from them, put 
 frefh leaves a* the bottom of another jar, take out your 
 walnuts, and wrap them leparately in frefh leaves as quick 
 as pofiibly you can. Put them into your jar with a good 
 many leaves over them, and fill it with white wine vine¬ 
 gar. Let them fcand three weeks, pour off your vine¬ 
 gar, and wrap them up as before, with frefh leaves at the 
 bottom and top of your jar. Take frelh white wine 
 vinegar, put fait in it till it will bear an egg, and add 
 to it mace, cloves, nutmeg, and garlick. Boil it about 
 eight minutes, and then pour it on your walnuts. Tie 
 them clofe with paper and a bladder, and fet them by 
 for ufe. Be careful to ke£p them covered, and when you 
 take any out for ufe, if the whole fhould not be wanted, 
 do not put thofe left again into the jar, for by that means 
 the whole may be fpoiled. 
 
 Red Cabbage. 
 
 SLICE you cabbage crofTways, then put it on an 
 earthen difh, and fprinkle a handful of fait over it. Cover 
 it with another difh, and let it hand twenty-four hours. 
 Then put it into a cullender to drain, and lay it into your 
 jar. Take a Efficient quantity of white-wine-vinegar to 
 cover it, a few cloves, a little mace, and allfpice. Put 
 them in whole, with a little cochineal bruifed fine. Then 
 boil it up, and pour it either hot or cold upon your cab¬ 
 bage. If the former, let it (land till cold, and then tie it 
 down for ufe. 
 
 Onions. 
 
 TAKE a Efficient number of the fmallefl onions you 
 can get, and put them into fait and water for nine days, 
 obferving to change the water every day. Then put 
 them into jars, and pour frelh boiling fait ar.d water over 
 them. Let them ftan$ clofe covered till they are cold, 
 then make Erne more fait and water, and pour it boiling 
 hot upon them. When it is cold, put your onions into 
 
PICKLING. 263 
 
 a hair lieve to drain, then put them into wide-mouthed 
 bottles, and fill them up with diftilled vinegar. Put into 
 every bottle a flice or two of ginger, a blade of mace, a 
 tea-lpoonful of fweet oil, (which will keep the onions 
 white ) a bay-leaf, and as much fait as will lay on a fix- 
 pence. Cork them well up, fo that no air can get to 
 them, and fet them in a dry place. 
 
 Samphire. 
 
 TAKE what quantity of green famphire you think 
 proper, put it into a clean pan, throw over it two or three 
 handsful of fait, and cover it with fpring-water. When 
 it has lain twenty-four hours, put it into a clean faucepan, 
 throw in a handful of fait, and cover it with good vinegar. 
 Cover the pan dole, fet it over a flow fire, let it (land till 
 it is juft green and crifp, and then take it off at that mo¬ 
 ment ; for, fhould it remain till it is loft, it will be totally 
 fpoiled. Put it into your pickling-pot, and cover it clofe. 
 When it is quite cold, tie it down with a bladder and 
 leather, and fet it by for ufe.—Samphire may be preferved 
 all the year, by keeping it in very ftrong brine of fait and 
 water, and, juft before you want to ufe it, put it for a few 
 minutes into fome of the beft vinegar. 
 
 Kidney Beans. 
 
 TAKE fome young fmall beans, and put them into - 
 ftrong lalt and water for three days, ftirring them two or 
 three times each day. Then put them into a pan, with 
 vine-leaves both under and over them, and pour on them 
 the fame water they came out of. Cover them clofe, 
 and fet them over a very flow fire till they are of a fine 
 green. Then put them into a hair fieve to drain, and 
 make a pickle for them of white wine vinegar, or fine 
 ale-allegar. Eoil it five or fix minutes with a little mace, 
 Jamaica pepper, and a race or two of ginger diced. Then 
 pour it hot upon the bean's, and tie them down with a blad¬ 
 der and paper. 
 
 Barberries . 
 
 TAKE a quantity of barberries not over ripe, pick off 
 the leaves and dead ftalks, and put them into jars, with a 
 large quantity of ftrong fait and water, and tie them down 
 
 3 with 
 
264 P I C'K LIN G. 
 
 with a bladder. When you fee a fcum rife on the bar¬ 
 berries, put them into frefh fait and water; but they need 
 no vinegar, their own natural fharpnefs being fully fufE- 
 cient to preferve them. Cover them clofe, and fet them 
 by for ufe. 
 
 Beet Roots. 
 
 BOIL the roots till they are tender, and take off the 
 Heins, cut them in dices, gimp them in the fhape of wheels, 
 or what other form you pleafe, and put them into a jar. 
 Take as much vinegar as you think will cover them, and 
 boil it with a little mace, a race of ginger diced, and a 
 few fmall pieces of horfe-radifh. Pour it hot upon the 
 roots, and tie them down clofe. 
 
 Radijh Pods. 
 
 GATHER your radifh-pods when they are quite 
 young, and put them into fait and water all night. The 
 next day boil the fait and water they were laid in, pour it 
 upon the pods, and cover your jar clofe to keep in the 
 fleam. When it is nearly cold, make it boiling hot, and 
 pour it on again, and continue doing fo till the pods are 
 quite green. Then put them into a deve to drain, and 
 make a pickle for them of white wine vinegar, with a 
 little mace, ginger, long pepper, and horfe-radifh. Pour 
 it boiling hot upon your pods, and when it is almoft cold, 
 make your vinegar twice as hot as before, and pour it 
 upon them. Tie them down with a bladder, and fet 
 them in a dry place. 
 
 Cauliflowers. 
 
 TAKE the whiteft and clofe ft cauliflowers you can 
 get, break the flowers into bunches, and fpread them on 
 an earthen difh. Lay fait all over them, and let them 
 ftand for three days to draw out all the water. Then put 
 them into jars, and peur boiling fait and water upon 
 them. Let them ftand all night, then drain them in a 
 hair fieve, and put them into glafs jars. Fill up your jars 
 with diftilled vinegar, and tie them clofe down. 
 
 Artichoke Bottoms. 
 
 BOIL your artichokes till you can pull off all the 
 leaves, and thoroughly clear the bottoms. Put them into . 
 
 faic 
 
P I C K L I N G. 263 
 
 jfait and water for an hour, then take them out, and lay 
 them on a cloth to drain. Vvhen they are dry, put them 
 into large wide-mouthed glades, with a little mace and 
 diced nutmeg between, and fill them with diftilled vine¬ 
 gar. Cover them with mutton fat melted, and tie them 
 down with leather and a bladder. 
 
 Najlurtiums. 
 
 THE mod proper time for gathering thefe berries, is 
 foon after the bloffoms are gone off. Put them into cold 
 fait and water, and change the water for three days fuc- 
 ceffively. Make your pickle of white wine vinegar, mace, 
 nutmeg diced, fhalots, pepper-corns, fait, and horfe- 
 radifh. Make your pickle pretty ftrong, but do not boil 
 it. When you have drained your berries, put them into 
 a jar, pour the pickle to them, and tie them down clofe. 
 
 s MuJIirooms . 
 
 TAKE the fmalleft mu lb rooms you can get, put them 
 into fpring-water, and rub them with a piece of new flan¬ 
 nel dipped in fait. Throw them into cold water as you 
 do them, which will make them keep their colour. Then 
 put them into a faucepan, and throw a handful of fait 
 over them. Cover them clofe, and fet them over the 
 fire four or five minutes, or till you find they are tho¬ 
 roughly hot, and the liquor is drawn out from them. Then 
 lay them between two clean cloths till they are cold, put 
 them into glafs bottles,] and fill them up with diftilled 
 vinegar. Put a blade or two of mace and a tea-fpoonful 
 of fweet oil into every bottle. Cork them up clofe, and 
 fet them in a cool place* If you have not any diftilled 
 vinegar, you may ufe white wine vinegar, or ale allegar 
 will do; 1 but it muft be boiled with a little mace, lalt, and 
 a few flices of ginger; and it muft ftand tili it is cold be¬ 
 fore you pour it on your mufhrooms. * 
 
 Mvfkroom Catchup: 
 
 TAKEaquantity of the full-grown flaps of mufhrooms, 
 crufti them well with your hands, and then drew a quan¬ 
 tity of fait all over them. Let them ftand ail night, and 
 the next day put them into ftew-pans. Set them in a 
 quick oven for twelve hours, and then drain them through 
 VII. L 1 a hair 
 
2 66 PICKLING. 
 
 a hair fieve. To every gallon of liquor put of cloves, 
 Jamaica, black pepper, and ginger, one ounce each, and 
 half a pound of common fait. Set it on a flow fire, and 
 let it boil till half the liquor is wafted away. Then put it 
 into a clean pot, and when it is quite cold, bottle it for ufe. 
 
 Mu/hroom Powder. 
 
 GET the largeft and the thickeft buttons you can, peel 
 them, and cut off the root end, but do not wadi them. 
 Spread them feparately on pewter difhes, and fee them in 
 a flow oven to dry. Let the liquor dry up into the 
 tnufhrooms, as that will make the powder much ftronger, 
 and let them continue in the oven till you find they will 
 powder. Then beat them in a marble mortar, and fife 
 them through a fine fieve, with a little chyan pepper and 
 pounded mace. Bottle it quite clear, and keep it in a 
 dry place. 
 
 Walnut Catchup. 
 
 PUT what quantity of walnuts you think proper into 
 jars, cover them with cold ftrong ale allegar, and tie 
 them clofe for twelve months. Then take out the wal¬ 
 nuts from the allegar, and to every gallon of the liquor 
 put two heads or garlick, half a pound of anchovies, a 
 quart of red wine, and of mace, cloves, long, black, 
 and Jamaica pepper, and ginger, an ounce each. Boil 
 them all together till the liquor is reduced to half the 
 quantity, and the next day bottle it for ufe. 
 
 Another Method of making Walnut Catchup. 
 
 TAKE green walnuts before the lhell is formed, and 
 grind them in a crab-mill, or, pound them in a marble 
 mortar. Squeeze out the juice through a coarfe cloth, 
 and put to every gallon of juice a pound of anchovies, 
 the fame quantity of bay fait, four ounces of Jamaica 
 pepper, two of long, and two of black pepper; of 
 mace, cloves, and ginger, each an ounce, and a ftick of 
 horfe-radifh. Bod all together till reduced to half the 
 quantity, and then put it into a pot. When it is cold, 
 bottle it clofe, and in three months it will be fit for ufe.. 
 
 Indian Pickle , or Piccalillo. 
 
 TAKE a cauliflower, a white cabbage, a few fmall 
 cucumbers, radifh-pods. kidney-beans, and a little beet¬ 
 root. 
 
P I C K L I N G. 26; 
 
 foot, or any other thing commonly pickled. Put them 
 into a hair fieve, and throw a large handful of fait over 
 them. Set them in the fun, or before the tire, for three 
 days to dry. When all the water is run out of them, 
 put them into a large earthen pot in layers, and between 
 every layer put a handful of brown rnuftard-feed. Then 
 take as much ale allegar as you think will cover it, and 
 to every four quarts of allegar put an ounce of turmeric. 
 Boil them together, and put it hot upon your pickle.— v 
 Let it Hand twelve days upon the hearth, or till the 
 pickles are of a bright yellow colour, and moll of the 
 allegar fucked up. Then take two quarts of ftrong ale 
 allegar, an ounce of mace, the fame of white pepper, a 
 quarter of an ounce of cloves, and the fame of long 
 pepper and nutmeg. Beat them all together, and boii 
 them ten minutes in the allegar. Then pour it upon your 
 pickles, with four ounces of peeled garlfok. Tie it clofe 
 down, and fet it by for ufe. . 
 
 Afparagus. 
 
 GET the larged: a r paragus you can, cut off the white 
 ends, and wafh the green ends in fpring water. Then 
 put them into a pan of clean water, and let them lie in 
 it two or three hours. Put as much fpring water into 
 a ftew-pan as will nearly fill it, and throw in a large 
 handful of fait. Set it on the fire, and when it boils put 
 in your glafs, not tied up, but loofe, and not too many 
 at a time, left you break the heads. Juft ftcald them, 
 and no more; then take them out with a broad fkimmer, 
 and lay them on a cloth to cool. Make your pickle 
 with a gallon or more (according to the quantity of 
 your afparagus) of white wine vinegar, and an 
 ourufe of ba-y-Talt. Boil it, and put your afparagus into 
 your jar. To a gallon of pickle put two nutmegs, a 
 quanter of an Ounce of mace, and the fame quantity of 
 whole white pepper. Pour the pickle hot over the 
 afparagus, and cover them with a linen cloth three or 
 four times double; and when they have ftood a week, 
 boil the pickle again. Let them ftand a week longer, 
 then boil the pickle again, and put it on as hot as before. 
 When they are cold, cover them clofe, tie them tight 
 down, and keep them in a dry place? 
 
 L 1 z Parjley 
 
268 
 
 PICKLING. 
 
 Parjley pickled Green. 
 
 MAKE a drong fait and water that will bear an egg, 
 and throw into it a large quantity of curled parfley, Let 
 it ftand a week, then take it out to drain, make a frefh 
 fait and water as before, and let it {land another week. 
 Then drain it well, put it into fpring water, and change 
 it three days fuccefiively. Then fcald it in hard water 
 till it becomes green, take it out, and drain it quite dry. 
 Boil a quart of diflilled vinegar a few minutes, with two 
 or three blades of mace, a nutmeg diced, and a dialot or 
 two. When it is quite cold, pour it on your pardey, 
 with two or three dices of horfe-radifh, and keep it for 
 ufe. 
 
 Elder Buds. 
 
 GATHER your elder-buds when they are about the 
 fizeofhop buds, put them into drong fait and water for 
 nine days, and dir them two or three times a day. Then 
 put them into a pan, cover them with vine leaves, and 
 pour on them the water they came out of. Set them 
 over a dow fire till they are quite green, and then make 
 a pickle for them of allegar, a little mace, a few fhalots, 
 and fome ginger diced. Boil them two or three minutes, 
 and pour it upon your buds. Tie them down, and keep 
 them in a dry place. 
 
 Peaches. 
 
 GATHER your peaches when they are at the full 
 growth, and juft before the time of their turning ripe; 
 and be lure they are not bruifed. Take as much fpring 
 water as you think will cover them, and make it fait 
 enough to bear an egg, for which purpofe you mult ufe 
 an equal quantity of bay and common fait. Then lay in 
 your peaches, and put a thin board over them to keep 
 them under the water. When they have been three 
 days in this date, take them out, wipe them very care¬ 
 fully with a fine foft cloth, and lay them in your jar. 
 Then take as much white w-ine vinegar as will fill your 
 jar, and to every gallon put one pint of the bed well 
 made mudard, two or three heads of garlick, a good 
 deal of ginger diced, and half an ounce of doves, mace, 
 
 and 
 
PICKLING. 269 
 
 and nutmegs. Mix your pickle well together, and pour 
 it over your peaches. Tie them up clofe, and in two 
 months they will be fit for ufe. 
 
 Nectarines and apricots mud be pickled in the fame 
 manner. 
 
 Codlins. 
 
 GATHER your codlins when they are about the 
 fize of a large walnut. Put them into a pan with a 
 quantity of vine leaves at the bottom, and the fame on 
 the top. Set them over a very flow fire till you can 
 peel the fkin off, and then take them carefully up, and 
 put them into a hair fieve. Peel them with a penknife, 
 and put them into the fame pot again, with the vine 
 leaves and water as before. Cover them clofe, and fet 
 them over a flow fire till they are of a fine green. Then 
 (drain them through a hair fieve, and when they are 
 cold, put them into diftilled vinegar. Pour a little mut¬ 
 ton fat on the top, and tie them down clofe with a bladder 
 and paper. 
 
 Golden Pippins. 
 
 TAKE a number of the fineft pippins you can pro¬ 
 cure, free from fpots and bruifes, put them into a pre¬ 
 fer ving-pan with cold fpring-water, and fet them on a 
 charcoal fire. Keep them ftirring with a wooden fpoon 
 till they will peel, but do not let them boil. When you 
 have peeled them, put them into the water again, with a 
 quarter of a pint of the beft vinegar, and a quarter of an 
 ounce of allum. Cover them clofe with a pewter difb, 
 and fet them on a charcoal fire again, but do not let them 
 boil. Keep turning them now and then till they look 
 green, then take them out, and lay them on a cloth to 
 cool. When they are quite cold, put to them the fol¬ 
 lowing pickle: To every gallon of vinegar put two 
 ounces of muftard-feed, two or three heads of garlick, a 
 good deal of ginger fliced, half an ounce of cloves, mace, 
 and nutmeg. Mix your pickle well together, pour it 
 over your pippins, and cover them clofe. 
 
 Grapes. 
 
 LET your grapes be of their full growth, but not ripe. 
 Cut them into lmall bunches fit for gaanifhing, and put 
 
 them 
 
2 7 o PICKLING. 
 
 them into a Hone jar, with vine-leaves between every 
 layer of grapes Then take fpring water, as much as 
 will cover them, and put into it pound of bay fait, and as 
 much white fait as will make it bear an egg. Dry your 
 bay fait, and pound it before you put it in, and that will 
 make it mek the focner. Put it into a pot, and boil and 
 ikim it well ; but take off only the black fcum. When 
 it has boiled a quarter of an hour, let it ftand to cool and 
 fettle; and when it is almoft cold pour the clear liquor on 
 the grapes, lay vine- leaves on the top, tie them down 
 dofe with a linen cloth, and cover them with a difh. 
 Let them Hand twenty-four hours, then take them out, 
 lay them on a cloth, cover them over with another, and 
 let them dry between the cloths. Then take two quarts 
 of vinegar, a quart of fpring-water, and a pound of coarfe 
 fugar. Let it boil a little, fkim it very clean as it boils, 
 and let it ftand till it is quite cold. Dry your jar with a 
 cloth, put frefh vine leaves at the bottom and between 
 every bunch of grapes, and on the top. Then pour the 
 clear of the pickle on the grapes, fill your jar that the 
 pickle may be above the grapes, and having tied a thin 
 piece of board in a flannel, lay it on the top of the jar, to 
 keep the grapes under the liquor. Tie them down with 
 a bladder and leather, and when you want them for ufe, 
 take them out with a wooden fpoon. Be careful you tie 
 them up again quite ciofe, for, iliould the air get in, 
 they will be inevitably fpoiied. 
 
 Kid Currants. 
 
 TAKE a quantity of white wine vinegar, : and to 
 every quart put in half a pound of Lifbon-fugar. Then 
 pick the worft of your currants, and put.them into this 
 liquor; but put the belt of your currants into glaffes, 
 Then boil your pickle with the worft of your currants, 
 and fkim it very clean. Boil it till it looks of a fine 
 colour, and let it ftand till it is cold. Then ft rain it 
 through a cloth, wringing it to get all the colour you 
 can from the currants. Let it ftand to cool and fettle, 
 then pour it clear into the glaffes in a little of the pickle, 
 arm wjien it is cold, cover it ciofe with a bladder and 
 
 leather. 
 
PICKLING. 271 
 
 leather. To'every half pound of fugar put a quarter of 
 "a pound of white laic. 
 
 Caveach , or pickled Mackarel. 
 
 TAKE half a dozen fine large mackarel, and cut them 
 into round pieces. Then take an ounce of beaten pepper, 
 three large nutmegs, a little mace, and a handful of fait. 
 Mix your fait and beaten lpice together, then make two 
 or three holes in each piece, and with your finger thruff 
 the feafoning into the holes. Rub the pieces ail over with 
 the feafoning, fry them brown in oil, and let them hand 
 till they are cold. Then put them into vinegar, and 
 cover them with oil. If well covered, they will keep 
 a confiderable time, and are moll delicious eating. 
 
 Smelts. 
 
 AT that time of the year when fmelts are feafonably 
 abundant, take a quarter of a peck of them, 'and wafh, 
 clean, and gut them. Take half an ounce of pepper, the 
 fame quantity of nutmegs, a quarter of an ounce of mace, 
 half an ounce of lalt-petre, and a quarter of a pound of 
 common fait. Beat all very fine, and lay your lmelts in 
 rows in ajar. Between every layer of fmelts drew the 
 feafoning, with four or five bay-leaves. Then boil fome 
 red wine, and pour over them a fufficient quantity to 
 cover them. Cover them with a plate, and when cold, 
 (lop them down clofe, and put them by for ule. A few 
 make a very pretty fuppem 
 
 Oyfters. 
 
 TAKE two hundred of the neweft and befl oyfters 
 you can get, and be careful to lave the liquor in a pan as 
 you open them. Cut off the black verge, faving the reft, 
 and put them into their own liquor. Then put all the 
 liquor and oyfters into a kettle, boil them half an hour 
 on a gentle fire, and do them very (lowly, fkimming 
 them as the fcum rifes, Then take them off the fire, 
 take out the oyfters, and drain the liquor through a fine 
 cloth. Then put in the oyfters again, take out a pint of 
 the liquor when hot, and put thereto three quarters of an 
 ounce of mace, and half an ounce of cloves. Juft give 
 
 3 ■ 
 
it one boil, then put it to the oyfters, arid ftir up the* 
 Ipices well among them. Then put in about a fpoonful 
 of fait, three quarters of a pint of the beft white wine 
 vinegar, and a quarter of an ounce of whole pepper.— 
 Let them ftand till they are cold, and put the oyfters, as 
 many as you well can, into the barrel. Put in as much 
 liquor as the barrel will hold, letting them fettle awhile, 
 and they will foon be fit to eat. Or you may put them 
 in ftone jars, cover them clofe with a bladder and leather, 
 and be fure they are quite cold before you cover them up. 
 
 In like manner you may do cockles and mufcles, with 
 this difference only, that there is not any thing to be 
 picked off cockles, and as they are fmall, the before- 
 mentioned ingredients will be fuffieient for two quarts of 
 mufcles ; but take great care to pick out the crabs under 
 the tongues, and the little pus which grows at the roots. 
 Both cockles and mufcles, muff be wafhed in feveral waters 
 to cleanfe them from grit. Put them into a ftew pan by 
 themfelves, cover them clofe, and when they open, pick 
 them out of the fhell, drain the liquor, and proceed as 
 directed for oyfters. 
 
 Artificial Anchovies . 
 
 THESE muft be made in the following manner:— 
 To a peck of fprats put two pounds of common fait, a 
 quarter of a pound of bay fait, four of falt-petre, two 
 ounces of prunella fait, and a fmaU quantity of cochineal. 
 Pound all in a mortar, put them into a fcone pan, a row 
 of fprats, then a layer of your compound, and fo on al¬ 
 ternately to the top. Prefs them hard down, cover them 
 clofe, let them, ftand fix months, and they will be fit for 
 ufe. Remember that your fprats are as frefh as you can 
 poftibly, .get them, and that you neither wafti or wipe 
 them, but do them as they come out of the water. 
 
 Ox Palates. 
 
 WASH the palates well with fait and water, and put 
 them into a pipkin with fome clean fait and water. 
 When they are ready to boil, Ikim them well, and ptit 
 to them as much pepper, cloves, and mace, as will give 
 them a quick tafte. When they are boiled tender, which 
 
 will 
 
COLLARING. 
 
 will require four or five hours, peel them, and cut them 
 into finall pieces, and let them cool. Then make the 
 pickle of an equal quantity of white wine and vinegar^ 
 Boil the pickle, and put in the fpices that were boiled 
 in the palates. When both the pickle and palates are 
 cold, lay your palates in ajar, and put to them a few bay- 
 leaves, and a little frefh fpice. Pour the pickle over 
 them, cover them ciofe, and keep them for ufe. 
 
 -— i—rn," ■ ■ 
 
 » 
 
 CHAP. XXIL 
 
 COLLARING . 
 
 O NE very material thing to be generally and indif- 
 penfably obferved in the bufinefs of collaring any 
 kind of meat is, that you roll it up well, and bind it as 
 tight as poffible, otherwife when it is cut, it will break in 
 pieces, and its beauty be entirely loft. Be careful that 
 you boil it enough, but not too much, and let it be quite 
 cold before you put it into the pickle. After it has lain 
 all night in the pickle, take off the binding, put it into 
 a difh, and when it is cut, the fkin will look clear, and 
 the meat have its proper folidity. 
 
 Venifon. 
 
 BONE a fide of venifon, take away all the finews, and 
 cut it into fquare collars of what fize you pleafe. It will 
 make two or three collars. Lard it with fat clear bacon, 
 and cut your lards as big as the top of your finger, and 
 three or four inches long. Seafon your venifon with 
 pepper, fait, cloves, and nutmeg. Roll up your collars, 
 and tie them ciofe with coarfe tape ; then put them into 
 deep pots, with feafonings at the bottoms, fome frefh. 
 butter, and three or four bay-leaves. Put the reft of the 
 feafoningand butter on the top, and over that fome beef* 
 fuet, finely Hired and beaten. Then cover up your pots 
 with coarfe pafte, and bake them four or' five hours*. 
 After that, take them out of the oven, and let them 
 VI I, M m ft and 
 
274 ' COLLARING. 
 
 Hand a little; take out your venifon, and let it drain well 
 from the gravy; add more butter to the fat, and fet it 
 over a gentle fire to clarify. Then take it off, let it ftand 
 a little, and Ikim it well. Make your pots clean, or 
 have pots ready fit for each collar. Put a little feafoning, 
 and fome of your clarified butter, at the bottom; then 
 put in your venifon, and fill up your pot with clarified 
 butter, and be lure that your butter be an inch above the 
 meat. When it is thoroughly cold, tie it down with 
 double paper, and lay a tile on the top. They will keep 
 fix or eight months ; and you may, when you ufe a pot, 
 put it for a minute into boiling water, and it will come out 
 whole. Let it Hand till it is cold, flick it round with 
 bay-leaves, and a fprig at the top, and ferve it up. 
 
 Breajl of Veal. 
 
 BONE your veal, and beat it a little. Rub it over 
 with the yolk of an egg, and drew on it a little beaten 
 mace, nutmeg, pepper, and fait; a large handful of 
 parfley chopped fmall, with a few fprigs of fweet- mar¬ 
 joram, a little lemon-peel fhred fine, and an anchovy 
 chopped fmall, and mixed with a few crumbs of bread. 
 Roll it up very tight, bind it hard with a fillet, and wrap 
 It in a clean cloth. Boil it two hours and a half in foft 
 water, and when it is enough, hang it up by one end, and 
 make a pickle for it, confiding of a pint of fait and water, 
 with half a pint of vinegar. Before you fend it to table, 
 cut off a dice at each of the ends. Garnifh with pickles 
 and parfley. 
 
 Breajl of Mutton. 
 
 PARE off the fkin of a bread of mutton, and with a 
 fharp knife nicely take out all the bones, but be careful 
 you do not cut through the meat. Pick all the fat and 
 meat off the bones, then grate fome nutmeg all over the 
 infide of the mutton, a very little beaten mace, a little 
 pepper and fait, a few fweet-herbs flared fmall, a few 
 crumbs of bread, and the bits of fat picked off" the bones. 
 Roll it up tight, dick a ikewer in to hold it together, but 
 do it in fuch a manner that the collar may ffand upright 
 in the difli. Tic a packthread acrofs it to hold it toge- 
 3 ther, 
 
COLLARING. 275 
 
 ther/ fpit it, then roll the caul of a bread of veal all round 
 it, and road it. When it has been about an hour at the 
 fire, take off the caul, dredge it with flour, bade it well 
 with frefh butter, and let it be of a fine brown. It will 
 require, on the whole, an hour and a quarter roading. 
 For fauce take fome gravy beef, cut and hack it well, 
 then flour it, and fry it a iittle brown. Pour into your 
 dew-pan fome boiling water, dir it well together, and then 
 fill your pan half full of water. Put in an onion, a bunch 
 of fweet-herbs, a little crud of bread toaded, two or three 
 blades of mace, four cloves, fome whole pepper, and the 
 bones of the mutton. Cover it clofe, and let it dew till 
 it is quite rich and thick. Then drain it, boil it up with 
 fome truffles and morels, a few mufhrooms, a fpoonful o£ 
 catchup, and (if you have them) two or three bottoms 
 of artichokes. Put jud enough fait to feafon the gravy, 
 take the packthread off the mutton, and fet it upright in 
 the difh. Cut the fvveetbread into four pieces, and boil 
 it of a fine brown, and have ready a few forcemeat balls 
 fried. Lay thefe round your dilb, and pour in the fauce, 
 Garnifh with diced lemon. 
 
 Bnf. 
 
 TAKE a piece of thin flank of beef, and bone it; cut 
 off the Ikin, and fait it w ith two ounces of falt-petre, two 
 ounces of fal-prunella, the fame quantity of bay-falt, half 
 a pound of coarfe fugar, and two pounds of common 
 fait. Beat the hard falts very fine, and mix all together. 
 Turn it every day, and rub it well with the brine for eight 
 days j then take it out, wafh it, and wipe it dry. Take 
 a quarter of an ounce of cloves, a quarter of an ounce of 
 mace, twelve corns of allfpice, and a nutmeg beat very 
 fine, with a fpoonful of beaten pepper, a large quantity 
 of chopped parfley, and fome fweet-herbs fhred fine. 
 Sprinkle this mixture on the beef, and roll it up very 
 tight j put a coarfe cloth round it, and tie it very tight 
 with beggar’s tape^ Boil it in a copper of water, and if 
 it is a large collar, it will take fix hours boiling, but p. 
 fmall one will be done in five. When it is done, take it 
 ©ut, and put it into a prefs; but if you have not that con- 
 
 M m 2 venience. 
 
276 COLLARING, 
 
 ye‘nience, put it between two boards, with a weight on 
 the uppermoft, and let it remain in that ftate till it is 
 thoroughly cold. Then take it out of the cloth, cut it 
 fhto thin dices, lay them on a difh, and ferve them to 
 table. Garnifh your difh with raw parfley. 
 
 Calf's Head. 
 
 TAKE a calf’s head with the fkin on, fcald off the 
 hair, take out all the bones carefully from the neck, ancj 
 lay it fome time in warm milk to make it look white. 
 Boil the tongue, peel it, cut that and the palate into thin 
 fiieei, and put them and the eyes into the middle of the 
 head. Take fome pepper, fait, cloves, and mace, and 
 beat them fine j and add to them fome grared nutmeg, 
 icalded parfley, thyme-favoury, and fweet-marjoram cut 
 very fmall. Beat up the yolks of three or four eggs, 
 Ipread them over the head, and then ftrew on the fealon- 
 ihg. Roll it up very tight, tie it round with tape, and 
 boil it gently for three hours in as much water as will 
 cover it. When you take it out, feafon the pickle with 
 fait, pepper, and fpice, and add to it a pint of white wine 
 vinegar. When it is cold put in the collar, and cut it in 
 handfome dices when you fend it to table. 
 
 • , V Pigs. 
 
 BONE your pig, and then rub it all over with pepper 
 and fait beaten fine, a few fage leaves, and fweet-herbs 
 chopped fmall. Roll it lip tight, and bind it with a fillet. 
 Fill your boiler with foft water, put in a bunch of fweet- 
 E.erbs, a few pepper corns, a blade or two of mace, eight 
 or ten cloves, a handful of fait, and a pint of vinegar. 
 When it boils, put in your pig, and let it boil till it is 
 tender. Then take it up, and, when it is almofl cold, 
 bind it over again, put it into an earthen pot, and pour 
 the liquor your pig was boiled in upon it. Be careful to 
 cover it clofe down after you cut any for ufe. 
 
 j Eels. 
 
 WHEN you have thoroughly cleanfed your eel, cut 
 $ the head, tail, and fins, and take out the bones, 
 l it fiat on-the back, and then grate Over it a fmall 
 
 ' nutmeg, 
 
C OLL-A RING. 
 
 nutmeg, with two or three blades of mace beat fine, and 
 a little pepper and fa)t, and .ftrew on thele .a handful of 
 parfley fhred.,fine, with a few fage leaves chopped,fmall. 
 Roll it up tight in a doth, and bind it tight. If it is of a 
 middle fize, boil it in fait and water three quarters of an 
 hour, and .,hang it up a|l night , to drain, . , Add tp the 
 pickle a. pint of .vinegar, a tew pepper-corns, and, 4 fpdg 
 of fweet-marjoram; boil it ten minutes, and letrj^ftand 
 till the next day. Then-take off the cloth, and put your 
 eels into the pickles. - When yoo-fend them to table, lay 
 them either whole in the plate, or cut them in dices,. 
 Garnifh with greenipaffky. Lampreys may be done in 
 the fame manner. 
 
 MackarelS 
 
 GUT your mackarel, and flit them down the belly :; 
 cut off their heads, take out the bones, arid be careful 
 not to cut them in holes. Then lay diem fiat upon their 
 backs, feafon them with mace, nutmeg, pepper, and 
 fait, and a handful of parfley fhred fine; ftrew it over 
 them, roll them tight, and tie them well feparately in 
 cloths. Boil them gently twenty minutes in vinegar, 
 fak, and water then take them out, put them into a 
 pot, and pour the liquor on them, or the cloth will ftick 
 to the fifh. Take the cloth off the fifti the next day, 
 put a little more vinegar to the pickle, and keep them 
 for ufe. When you fend them to table, garnifh with fen¬ 
 nel and parfley, and put fome of the liquor under them. 
 
 Salmon. 
 
 TAKE a fide of falmon, cut off the tail, then walk 
 the flefhy part well, and dry it with a cloth. Rub it 
 over with the yolks of eggs, and make fome forcemeat 
 with what you cut off at the tail end. Take of the fkin, 
 and put to it fome parboiled oyfters, a tail or two of 
 lobfters, the yolks of three or four eggs boiled hard, fix 
 anchovies, a handful of fweet-herbs chopped fmall, a 
 little fait, cloves, mace, nutmeg, pepper, and grated 
 bread. Work all thefe well together with yolks of eggs, 
 lay it over the flefhy part, and ltrew on it a little pepper 
 and falc, Then roil it up into a collar, and bind it with 
 
 broad 
 
2*78 POTTING. 
 
 broad tape. Boil it in water, fait, and vinegar, but let 
 the liquor boil before you put it in, and throw in a 
 bunch of fweet-herbs, with fome diced ginger and nut¬ 
 meg. Let it boil gently near two hours, and then take 
 it up. Put it into a pan, and when the pickle is cold, 
 put it to your falmon, and let it lay in it till wanted. If 
 you cover it with clarified butter, it will keep a consider¬ 
 able time. 
 
 CHAP. XXIII. 
 
 ' P 0 T T I N G. 
 
 _ r « • ■ r '*• 
 
 ■v 
 
 I N this mode of cookery, be fure to make it a rule that 
 whatever article you do it is well covered with clarified 
 butter before you fend it to the oven, tie it clofe with 
 flrong paper, and l et it be well baked. When it comes 
 from the oven, pick out every bit of fkin you can, and 
 drain away the gravy, otherwife the article potted will be 
 apt to turn four. Beat your feafoning very fine, and 
 ftrew it on gradually. Before you put it into your pot, 
 prefs it well, and before you put on your clarified butter, 
 let it be perfectly cold. 
 
 SECT. I. 
 
 MEAT and POULTRY. 
 
 RUB your venifon all over with red wine ; feafon it 
 with beaten mace, pepper, and fait; put it into an earthen 
 difh, and pour over it half a pint of red wine, and a 
 pound of butter, and then fend it to the oven. If it be a 
 ihoulder, put a coarfe pafte over it, and let it lay in the 
 oven all night. When it comes out, pick the meat clean 
 from the bones, and beat it in a marble mortar, with the 
 fat from your gravy, if you find it not fufficiently fea- 
 foned, add more, with clarified butterj and keep beating it 
 
 till 
 
POTTING. 279 
 
 till it becomes like a fine pafte. Then prefs it hard 
 down into your pots, pour clarified butter over it, and 
 keep it in a dry place. 
 
 Hares. 
 
 CASE your hare, wafh it thoroughly clean, then cut 
 it up as you would do for eating, put it into a pot, and 
 feafon it with pepper, fait, and mace. Put on it a pound 
 of butter, tie it down clofe, and bake it in a bread oven. 
 When it comes out, pick the meat clean from the bones, 
 and pound it very fine in a mortar, with the fat from 
 your gravy. Then put it clofe down in your pots, and 
 pour over clarified butter. 
 
 Veal 
 
 TAKE part of a knuckle^or fillet of veal that has 
 been ftewed j or bake it on purpofe for potting ; beat it 
 to a pafte with butter, fait, white pepper, and mace 
 pounded. Prefs it down in pots, and pour over it 
 clarified butter. 
 
 Marble Veal. 
 
 BOIL, {kin, and cut a dried tongue as thin as pof- 
 fible, and beat it well with near a pound of butter, and a 
 little beaten mace, till it is like a pafte. Elave ready fome 
 veal ftewed, and beat in the fame manner. Then put 
 fome veal into potting pots, thin fome tongue in lumps 
 over the veal. Do not lay on your tongue in any form, 
 but let it be in lumps, and it will them cut like marble. 
 Fill your pot clofe up with veal, prefs it very hard down, 
 and pour clarified butter over it. Remember to keep it 
 in a dry place, and when you fend it to table, cut it into 
 fiices. Garnifh it with parfley. 
 
 Tongues. 
 
 TAKE a fine neat’s tongue, and rub it well over 
 with an ounce of falt-petre and four ounces of brown 
 fugar,. and let it lie two days. Then boil it till it is quite 
 tender, and take off the fkin and fide bits Cut the 
 tongue in very thin fiices, and beat it in a marble mortar, 
 with a pound of clarified butter, and feafon it to your tafte 
 with pepper, fait, and mace. Beat all as fine as poffible, 
 
 • then 
 
v 2 8o PO-TTIN G. 
 
 ihen prefs it clofe down in frnall potting-pots* and potsf 
 over them clarified butter. 
 
 Geefe and Fowls. 
 
 BOIL a dried tongue till it is tender; then take a goofe 
 and a large fowl, and bone them. Take a quarter of an 
 ounce of mace, the fame quantity of olives, a large nut¬ 
 meg, a quarter of an ounce of black pepper, and beat all 
 well together; add to thefe a fpoonful of fait, and rub 
 the tongue and infide of the foul well with them. Put 
 the tongue into the fowl, then feafon the goofe, and fill 
 it with the fowl and tongue, and the goofe will look as if 
 it was whole. Lay it in a pan that will juft hold it, melt 
 frefti butter enough to cover it, fend it to the oven, and 
 bake it an hour and a half. Then take out the meat, 
 drain the butter carefully from it, and lay it on a coarfe 
 cloth till it is cold. Then take off the hard fat from the 
 gravy, and lay it before the: fire to melt. Put your meat 
 again into the pot, and pour your butter over it. If there 
 Is not enough, clarify more, and let the butter be an 
 inch above the meat. It will keep a great while, cut 
 fine, and look beautiful; and when you cut it let it be 
 crofsways. It makes a very pretty corner-difh for dinner, 
 or fide-difh for fupper. 
 
 Beef. 
 
 TAKE half a pound of brown fugar, and an ounce of 
 falt-petre, and rub it into twelve pounds of beef. Let it 
 lie twenty-four hours; then wafh it clean, and dry it well 
 with a cloth. Seafon it to your tafte with pepper, fait, 
 and mace, and cut it into five or fix pieces. Put it into 
 an earthen pot, with a pound of butter in lumps upon it* 
 fet it in a hot oven, and let it ftand three hours, then 
 take it out, cut off the hard'outfides, and beat it in a 
 mortar. Add to it a little more pepper, lair, and mace. 
 Then oil a pound of butter in the gravy and fat that 
 came from your beef, and put in as you fine neceffary ; - 
 but beat the meat very fine. Then put it into your pot, 
 prefs it clofe down, pour clarified butter over it, and keep 
 it in a dry place. - , 
 
 Another method of potting bee£ and which will 
 greatly imitate yenifon, is this; Take a buttock of beef* 
 
 and 
 
POTTIN Gi 2B1 
 
 and cut the lean of it into pieces of about a pound weight 
 each. To eight pounds of beef take four ounces of falt- 
 petre, the fame quantity of bay-falt, half a pound of 
 white-falt, and an ounce of fal-prunella. Beat all the 
 fait very fine, mix them well together, and rub them 
 into the beef. Then let it lie four days, turning it twice 
 a day. After that put it into a pan, and cover it with 
 pump water, and a little of its own brine. Send it to the 
 oven, and bake it till it is tender then drain it from the 
 gravy, and take out all the fkin and finews. Pound the 
 meat well in a mortar, lay it in a board difh, and mix on 
 it an ounce of cloves and mace, three quarters of an 
 ounce of pepper, and a nutmeg, ail beat very fine. Mix 
 the whole well with the meat, and add a little clarified 
 frefh butter to moiften it. Then prefs it down into pots 
 very hard, fet them at the mouth of the oven juft to 
 fettle, and then cover them two inches thick with clarified 
 butter. When quite cold, cover the pots over with white 
 paper tied clofe, and fet them in a dry place. It will 
 keep good a confiderable time. 
 
 Pigeons. 
 
 PICK and draw your pigeons, cut off the pinions, 
 walla them clean, and put them into a fieve to drain. 
 Then dry them with a cloth, and feafon them with 
 pepper and lalt. Roll a lump of butter in chopped 
 parftey, and put it into the pigeons. Sew up the vents, 
 then put them into a pot with butter over them, tie them 
 down, and fet them in a moderately heated oven. When 
 they come out, put them into your pots, and pour clarified 
 butter over them. 
 
 Woodcocks. 
 
 TAKE fix woodcocks, pluck them, and draw out 
 the train. Skewer their bills through their thighs, put 
 their legs through each other, and their feet upon their 
 breafts. Seafon them with three or four blades of mace, 
 and a little pepper and fait. Then put them into a deep 
 pot, with a pound of butter over them, and tie a ftrong 
 paper over them. Bake them in a moderate oven, and 
 when they are enough, lay them on a difh to drain the 
 VIII. N n ' gravy 
 
282 POTTING. 
 
 gravy from them. Then put them into potting-pots , 
 take all the clear butter from your gravyj and put it 
 upon them. Fill up your pots with clarified butter. 
 Keep them in a dry place for ufe. Snipes muft be done 
 in the fame manner. 
 
 Moor Game. 
 
 WHEN you have picked and drawn your game, wipe 
 them clean with a cloth, and feafon them well with 
 pepper, fait, and mace. Put one leg through the other, 
 and road them till they are of a good brown. When 
 they are cold, put them into your pots, and pour over 
 them clarified butter; but let their heads be feen above 
 it. Put them in a dry place, and they will keep a great 
 while. 
 
 Small Birds. 
 
 HAVING picked and glutted your birds, dry them 
 well with a cloth, and feafon them with pepper, fait, 
 and mace. Then put them into a pot with butter, tie 
 your pot down with paper, and bake them in a moderate 
 oven, When they come out, drain the gravy from them, 
 and put them into your pots. Pour clarified butter over 
 them, and cover them clofe. 
 
 SECT. II. 
 
 F I S H. 
 
 FAKE a large eel, and when you have ikinned, 
 walked clean, and thoroughly dried it with a cloth, cut it 
 into pieces about four inches long. Seafon them with a 
 little beaten mace and nutmeg, pepper, fait, and a little 
 fal-prunella beat fine. Lay them in a pan, and pour as 
 much clarified butter over them as will cover them. 
 Bake them half an hour in a quick oven; but the fize of 
 your eels muft be the general rule to determine what time 
 they will take baking. Take them out with a fork, and 
 lay them on a coarfe cloth to drain. When they are 
 quite cold, feafon them again with the like feafoning, and 
 lay them clofe in the pot. Then take off the butter they 
 
 were 
 
FISH. 283 
 
 were baked in clear from the gravy of the fifh, and fet it 
 in a difh before the fire. When it is melted, pour the 
 butter over them, and put them by for ufe. You may 
 bone your eels, if you choofe it; but in that cafe you 
 muff put in no fal-prunella. 
 
 Lampreys. 
 
 WHEN you have taken off the fkins, cleanfe them 
 with fait, and then wipe them quite dry. Beat fome 
 black pepper, mace, and cloves, mix with them fome 
 fait, and feafon your filh with it. Then lay them in a 
 pan, and cover them with clarified butter. Bake them 
 an hour, then feafon them again, and treat them in the 
 lame manner as before directed for eels. 
 
 Smelts. 
 
 TAKE out the guts, and then feafon them with fait, 
 pounded mace, and pepper, put them into a pan, with 
 butter on the top, and put them in a very flack oven. 
 When they are done, and nearly cold, take them out, 
 and lay them on a cloth. Then put them into pots, 
 take off the butter from the gravy, clarify it with more, 
 pour it on them, tie them down clofe, and fet them by 
 for ufe. 
 
 Pike. 
 
 WHEN you have well fealed your fifh, cut off the 
 head, fplit it down the back, and take out the bone. 
 Then ftrew over theinfide fome bay-falt and pepper, roll 
 it up, and lay it in your pot. Cover it clofe, and let it 
 bake an hour. Then take it out, and lay it on a coarfe 
 cloth to drain. When it is cold, put it into your pot, 
 and cover it with clarified butter. 
 
 Salmon. 
 
 TAKE a large piece of frefh falmon, fcale it, and wipe 
 it clean. Then feafon it with Jamaica pepper, black 
 pepper, mace, and cloves, beat fine, and mixed with 
 lalt, and a little fal-prunella : then pour clarified butter 
 over it, and bake it well. W T hen it is done, take it out 
 carefully, ^nd lay it on cloth to drain. As foon as it is 
 
 N n 2 quite 
 
384 F I S H. 
 
 quite cold, feafon it again, lay it clofe in your pot, and 
 cover it with clarified butter.—Or you may pot it in this 
 manner: 
 
 Scale and clean a whole falmon, (lit it down the back, 
 dry it well, and cut it as near the fhape of your pot as 
 you can. Then take two nutmegs, an ounce of mace 
 and cloves beaten, half an ounce of white pepper, and an 
 ounce of fait. Then take out all the bones, cut off the 
 tail and the head below the fins. Seafon the fcaly fide 
 firft, and lay that at the bottom of the pot; then rub the 
 feafoning on the other fide, cover it with a dilh, and let 
 it ftand all night. It muff be put double, and the fcaly 
 fides top and bottom. Put fome butter at the bottom 
 and top, and cover the pot with fome ftiff, coarfe pafte. 
 If it is a large filh, it will require three hours baking; but 
 if a (mail one, two hours will be fufficient. When it 
 comes out of the oven, let it ftand half an hour 3 then 
 uncover it, raifc it up at one end that the gravy may run 
 out, and put a trencher and weight on it effe&ually to 
 anfwer this purpofe. When the butter is cold, take it 
 out clear from the gravy, add more butter to it, and put 
 it in a pan before the fire. When it is melted, pour it 
 over the falmon, and as foon as it is cold, paper it up, 
 put it in a dry place, and it will keep a confiderable time. 
 Carp, tench, trout, and feveral other forts of filh, may be 
 potted in the fame manner. 
 
 ^ Lobjler. 
 
 BOIL a live lobfter in fait and water, and ftick a 
 fkewer in the vent to prevent the water getting in. As 
 foon as it is cold, take out all the ftelh, beat it fine in a 
 mortar, and feafon it with beaten mace, grated nutmeg, 
 pepper, and fait. Mix all together, melt a piece of 
 butter the ftze of a walnut, and mix it with the lobfter as 
 you beat it. When it is beat to a pafte, put it into your 
 pot, and prefs it down as clofe and hard as you can. 
 Then fet fome butter in a deep broad pan before the fire, 
 and when it is all melted, take off the feum at the top, 
 if any, and pour the clear butter over the fifh as thick as 
 a crown-piece. The whey and churn-milk will fettle at 
 3 the 
 
FISH. 285 
 
 the bottom of the pan ; but take care that none of that 
 goes in, and always let your butter be very good, or you 
 will fpcil all. If you choofe it, you may put in the meat 
 whole, with the body mixed among it, laying them as 
 clofe together as you can, and pouring the butter over 
 them. 
 
 Shrimps, 
 
 AFTER you have boiled your fhrirops, feafon them 
 well with pepper, fak, and a little pounded cloves. Put 
 them clofe into a pot, fet them a few minutes into a flack 
 oven, and then pour over them clarified butter. 
 
 Herrings. 
 
 CUT off the heads of your herrings, and put them 
 into an earthen pot. Lay them clofe, and between every 
 layer of herrings ftrew fome fait, but not too much. 
 Put in cloves, mace, whole pepper, and a nutmeg cut 
 in pieces. Fill up the pot with vinegar, water, and a 
 quarter of a pint of white wine. Cover it with brown 
 paper, tie it down clofe, and bake them in an oven with 
 brown bread. As foon as they are cold, put them into 
 your pots, tie them clofe with paper, and fet them by 
 for ufe. 
 
 Chars. 
 
 AFTER having cleaned your fifli, cut off the fins, 
 tails, and heads, and then lay them in rows in a long 
 baking-pan, having firft fealoned them with pepper, 
 fak, and mace. Send them to the oven, and when 
 they are done, let them (land till they are cold, then 
 lay them in your pots, and cover them with clarified 
 butter. This fifh is greatly admired, and is peculiar to 
 the lakes in Wellmoreland. 
 
 CHAP 
 
( 286 ) 
 
 CHAP. XXIV. 
 
 CURING various kinds of MEATS, SOUSINGS, &c.' 
 
 Hams. 
 
 C UT off a fine ham from a fat hind-quarter of pork. 
 
 Take two ounces of falt-petre, a pound of coarfe 
 fugar, a pound of common fait, and two ounces of fal- 
 prunella; mix all together, and rub it well. Let it lie_ 
 a month in this pickle, turning and bafiing it every day ; 
 then hang it in wood-fmoke in a dry place, fo that no 
 heat comes to it; and, if you intend to keep them long, 
 hang them a month or two in a damp place, and it will 
 make them cut fine and fhort. Never lay thefehamsin 
 water till you boil them, and then boii them in a copper, 
 ifyou have one, or the largeft pot you have. Put them’ 
 into the water cold, and let ihem be four or five hours 
 before they boil. Skim the pot well, and often, till it 
 boils. If it is a very large one, three hours will boil it; 
 if a ftnall one, two hours will do, provided it is a great 
 while before the water boils. Take it up half an hour 
 before dinner, pull off the fkin, and throw rafpings, 
 finely fifted all over. Plold a red-hot falamander over 
 it, and when dinner is ready, take a few rafpings in a 
 fieve, and lift all over the difh, then lay in your ham, 
 and, with your finger, make figures round the edge of 
 your difh. Be lure to boil your ham in as much water 
 as you can, and keep fkimming it all the time it boils. 
 The pickle you take your ham out of will do finely for 
 tongues. Let them lay in it a fortnight, and then lay 
 them in a place where there is wood-fmoke to dry. 
 When you broil any flices of ham or hacon, have fome 
 boiling water ready ; let them lay a minute or two in it, 
 and then put them on the gridiron. This is a very good 
 method, as it takes out the violence of the fait, and makes 
 them have a fine flavour. 
 
 Hams the York/hire Way . 
 
 NIIX well together half a peck of fait, three ounces of 
 falt-petre, half an ounce offal-prunella, and five pounds 
 
 4 
 
CURING, &c. 287 
 
 of very coarfe fak. Rub the hams well with this; put 
 them into a large pan or pickling-tub, and lay the 
 remainder on the top. Let them lay three days, and 
 then hang them up. Put as much water to the pickle 
 as will cover the hams, adding fait till it will bear an 
 egg, and then boil and drain it. The next morning put 
 in the hams, and prefs them down fo that they may be 
 covered. Let them lay a fortnight, then rub them well 
 with bran, and dry them. The quantity of ingredients 
 here dire&ed is for doing three middle-fized hams at 
 once, fo that if you do only one, you mud proportion the 
 quantity of each article. 
 
 New England Hams. 
 
 GET two fine hams, and in the mode of cure for this 
 purpofe, proceed as follows:—Take two ounces of fa!- 
 prunella, beat it fii\e, rub it well in, and let them lie 
 twenty-four hours. Then take half a pound of bay-falt, 
 a quarter of a pound of common fait, and one ounce of 
 falt-petre, all beat fine, and half a pound of the coarfeft 
 fugar. Rub all thefe well in, and let them lie two or 
 three days. Then take fome white common fait, and 
 make a pretty drong brine, with about two gallons of 
 water, and half a pound of brown fugar. Boil it well, 
 and fcum it when cold; put in the hams, and turn them 
 every two or three days in the pickle for three weeks. 
 Then hang them up in a chimney, and fmoke them well 
 a day or two with horfe-litter. Afterwards let them hang 
 about a week on the fide of the kitchen chimney, and 
 then take them down. Keep them dry in a large box, 
 and cover them well with bran. They will keep good 
 in this date for a year, though, if wanted, may be ufed in 
 a month. 
 
 Bacon . , 
 
 TAKE off all the infide fat of a fide of pork, and lay 
 it on a long board or drefier, that the blood may run 
 from it. Rub it well on both fides with good fait, and 
 let it lie a day. Then take a pint of bay fait, a quarter of 
 a pound of fait petre, and beat them both fine; two 
 pounds of coarfe fugar, and a quarter of a peck of 
 r . common 
 
288 CURING, &c. 
 
 common fait. Lay your pork in fomething that will 
 hold the pickle, and rub it well with the above ingredients- 
 Lay the fkinny fide downwards, and bake it every day 
 with the pickle for a fortnight. Then hang it in a wood- 
 fmoke, and afterwards in a dry, but not hot place. 
 Remember that all hams and bacon fhould hang clear 
 from every thing, and not touch the wall. Take care 
 to wipe off the old fait before you put it into the pickle, 
 and never keep bacon or hams in a hot kitchen, or in a 
 room expofed to the rays of the fun, as all thefe matters 
 will greatly contribute to make them rufty. 
 
 Mutton Ham. 
 
 TAKE a hind-quarter of mutton, cut it like a ham, 
 and rub it well with an ounce of fak-petre, a pound of 
 coarfe fugar, and a pound of common fait, mixed well 
 together. Lay it in a deepifh tray with the fkin down¬ 
 ward, and bake it with the pickle every day for a 
 fortnight. Then roll it in faw-duft, and hang it in 
 wood-fmoke for a fortnight. Then boil it, and hang it 
 up in a dry place. You may diefs it whole, or cut dices 
 off, and broil them, which will eat well, and have an ex¬ 
 cellent flavour. 
 
 Veal Hams. 
 
 CUT a leg of veal in the fhape of a ham. Take 
 half a pound of bay-ialt, two ounces of falt-petre, and 
 a pound of common fait. Mix them all well together, 
 with an ounce of beaten juniper berries, and rub the ham 
 well with them. Lay it in a. tray with the fkinny fide 
 downwards, bade it every day with the pickle for a fort¬ 
 night, and then hang it in wood-fmoke for a fortnight 
 longer. When you drefs it, you may boil it, or parboil 
 -and road: it. Either way it will eat exceeding pleafant. 
 
 Beef Hams. 
 
 CUT the leg of a fat Scotch or Welch ox as nearly in 
 the ihape of a ham as you can. Take an ounce of bay- 
 fak, an ounce of fak-petre, a pound of common fait, and 
 a pound of coarfe fugar, which will be a diffident quantity 
 for about fourteen or fifteen pounds of beef ,* and if a 
 
 greater 
 
CURING, &c. 286 
 
 great or lefs quantity of meat, mix your ingredients 
 in proportion. Pound thefe ingredients, mix them well 
 together, rub your meat with it, turn it every day, and, 
 at the lame time, bafte it well with the pickle. Let ic 
 lay in this ftate for a month, then take it out, roll it in 
 bran or faw-duft, and hang it in a wood-fmoke for 
 a month. Then take it down, hang it in a dry place, 
 and keep it for ufe. You may drefs it in whatever 
 manner you pleafe, and as occalion may require. If you 
 boil a piece of it, and let it be till it is cold, it will eat 
 very good, and fhives like Dutch beef; or it is exceed* 
 ing fine cut into ralhers and broiled, with poached eggs 
 laid on the tops. t 
 
 Neat's Tongue . 
 
 SCRAPE your tongue quite clean, dry it with a cloth, 
 and then fait it with common fait, and half an ounce of 
 falt-petre, well mixed together. Lay it in a deep pan, 
 and turn it every day for a week or ten days. Then turn 
 it again, and let it lay a week longer. Take it out of the 
 pari, dry it with a cloth, ftrew flour on it, and hang it up 
 in a moderate warm place to dry. 
 
 Hung Beef. 
 
 MAKE a ftrong brine with bay-falt, falt-petre, and 
 pump-water; put a rib of beef into it, and let it lay for 
 nine days. Then hang it up a chimney where wood 
 dr faw-duft is burnt. When it is a little dry, wafli the 
 outfide with bullock’s blood too or three times, to make it 
 look black; and when it is dry enough, boil it, and 
 ferve it up with fuch kind of vegetables as you think 
 proper. 
 
 Another method of preparing hung-beef is this: Take 
 the navel-piece, and hang it up in your cellar as long as 
 it will keep good, and till it begins to be a tittle fappy. 
 Then take it down, cut it into three pieces, and wafli it 
 in fugar and water, one piece after another. Then take 
 a pound of falt-petre, and two pounds of bay-falt, dried 
 and pounded fmall. Mix with them two or three fpoons- 
 ful of brown fugar, and rub your beef well with it in every 
 place. Then ftrew a fufficient quantity of common fait 
 • VIII. O o all 
 
290 CURING, &c. 
 
 all over it, and let the beef lie clofe till the fait is diffolved, 
 which will be in fix or feven days. Then turn it every 
 other day for a fortnight, and after that hang it up in a 
 warm, but not hot place. It may hang a fortnight in the 
 kitchen, and when you want it, boil it in bay-falt and 
 pump-water till it is tender. It will keep, when boiled, 
 two or three months, rubbing it with a greafy cloth, or 
 putting it two or three minutes into boiling water to take 
 off the mouldinefs. 
 
 Dutch Beef. 
 
 TAKE a buttock of beef, cut off all the fat, and rub 
 the lean all over with brown fugar. Let it lie two or three 
 hours in a pan or tray, and turn it two or three times. 
 Then fait it with falt-petre and common fait, and let it 
 lay a fortnight, turning it every day. After the expiration 
 of this time, roll it very ftraight in a coarfe cloth, put it 
 in a cheefe-prefs for a day and a night, and then hang it 
 to dry in a chimney. When you boil it put it into a 
 cloth, and when cold, it will cut like Dutch beef. 
 
 Pickled Pork. 
 
 BONE your pork, and then cut it into pieces of a 
 fize fuitable to lay in the pan in which you intend to put 
 it. Rub your pieces firft with falt-petre, and then with 
 two pounds of common fait, and two of bay-falt, mixed 
 together. Put a layer of common fait at the bottom of 
 your pan.or tub, cover every piece over with common 
 fait, and lay them one upon another' as even as you can, 
 filling the hollow places on the fides with fait. As your 
 fait melts on the top, drew on more, lay a coarfe cloth 
 over the veffel, a board over that, and a weight on the 
 board to keep it down. Cover it clofe, ftrew on more 
 fait as may- be occafionally necefiary, and it will keep 
 good till the very lalt bit. 
 
 Moik Brawn. 
 
 T AKE the head, and a piece of the belly-part of a 
 young porker, and rub them well with falt-petre. Let 
 them lay three days, and then wafh them clean. Split 
 the head and boil it, takes out the bones, and cut it into 
 
 pieces. 
 
SOUSING. 291 
 
 pieces. Then take four cow-heels boiled tender, cut 
 them in thin pieces, and lay them in the belly-piece of 
 pork, with the head cut fmali. Then roll it up tight 
 with fheet-tin, and boil it four or five hours. When it 
 comes out, fet it up on one end, put a trencher on it 
 within the tin, prefs it down with a large weight, and 
 let it (land all night. Next morning take it out of the 
 tin, and bind it with a fillet. Put it into cold fait and 
 water, and it will be .fit for ufe. If you change the 
 fait and water every four days, it will keep for a long 
 time. 
 
 Pigs Feet and Ears foufed. 
 
 WHEN you have properly cleaned them, boil them 
 till they are tender; then fplit the feet, and put them 
 and the ears into fait and water. When you ufe them, 
 dry them well in a cloth, dip them in batter, fry them, 
 and fend them up to table, with melted butter in a' boat. 
 They may be eaten cold, and will keep a confiderablc 
 time. 
 
 Soufed Tripe. 
 
 BOIL your tripe, and put it into fait and water, 
 which you muff change every day till you ufe the 
 tripe. When you drefs it, dip it in batter made of 
 flour and eggs, and fry it of a good brown ; or boil it in 
 fait and water, with an onion lhred, and a few ftrips 
 of parfley. Send it to the table with melted butter in a 
 fauce-boat. 
 
 Turkey foufed in Imitation of Sturgeon. 
 
 DRESS a fine large turkey, dry and bone it, then 
 tie it up as you do a fturgeon, and put it into the pot, 
 with a quart of white wine, a quart of water, the fame 
 quantity of good vinegar, and a large handful of fait; 
 but remember that the wine, water, and vinegar, mull 
 boil before you put in the turkey, and that the pot mufl 
 be well fkimmed before it boils. When it is enough, 
 take it out, and tie it tighter ; but let the liquor boil a 
 lirtle longer. If you think the pickle wants more 
 vinegar or fait, add them when it is. cold, and pour 
 h upon the turkey. If you keep it covered dole from 
 
 O o 2- the 
 
292 SOUSING, &c. 
 
 the air, and in a cool dry place, it will be equally good 
 for fome months. Some admire it more than fturgeon, 
 and it is generally eaten with oil, vinegar, and fugar, 
 for fauce. 
 
 To make fine Saufages . 
 
 TAKE fix pounds of young pork, free from fkin, 
 griftles, and fat. Cut it very fmall, and beat it in a 
 mortar till it is very fine. Then fhred fix pounds of beef- 
 fuet very fine, and free from all fkin. Take a good deal 
 of fage, wafh it very clean, and pick off the leaves, and 
 fhred it fine. Spread your meat op a clean dreffer or 
 table, and then fhake the fage all over it, to the quantity 
 of about three large fpoonsful. Shred the; thin rind of a 
 middling lemon very fine, and throw them over the 
 meat, and alfo as many fweet-herbs as, when fhred fine, 
 will fill a large fpoon. Grate over it two nutmegs, and 
 put to it two tea-fpoonsful of pepper, and a large fpoon- 
 ful of fait. Then throw over it the fuet, and mix all 
 well together. Put it down clofe in a pot, and when 
 you ufe it, roll it up with as much egg as will make it 
 roll fmooth. Make them of the fize of a faufage, and 
 fry them in butter, or good dripping. Be careful the 
 butter is hot before you put them in, and keep rolling 
 them about while they afe doing. When they are 
 thoroughly hot, and of a fine light brown, take them 
 out, put them into a dilb, and ferve them up. Veal 
 mixed with pork, and done in this manner, eats exceed¬ 
 ingly fine. 
 
 Common Saufages . 
 
 TAKE three pounds of nice pork, fat and lean toge¬ 
 ther, free from fkin or griftles, chop it very fine, feafon 
 it with two tea-fpoonsful of fait, and one of beaten pep¬ 
 per, fome fage fhred fine, about three tea-fpoonsful ; mix 
 it well together, have the guts nicely cleaned, and fill 
 them, or put the meat down in a pot. Roll them of 
 what fize you pleafe, and fry them. 
 
 » - Oxford Saufages. 
 
 T AKE a pound of young pork, fat and lean, without 
 fkin or griltle, a pound of lean veal, and a pound of 
 
 beef- 
 
I 
 
 VEGETABLES, &c. 293 
 
 beef-fuet, chopped all fine together; put in half a pound 
 of grated bread, half the peel of a lemon fhred fine, a 
 nutmeg grated, fix fagc-leaves walked and chopped very 
 fine, a tea-fpoonfui of pepper, and two of fait, fome 
 thyme, favoury, and marjoram, fhred fine. Mix all 
 well together, and put it clofe down in a pan till you ufe 
 it. Roll it out the fize of a common faufage, and fry 
 them in frefh butter of a fine brown, or broil them over 
 a clear fire, and fend them to table as hot as pofiible. 
 
 Bologna Saufages. 
 
 TAKE a pound of beef-fuet, a pound of pork, a 
 pound of bacon, fat and lean together, and the fame 
 quantity of beef and veal. Cut them fmall, and chop 
 them fine. Take a fmall handful of lage, pick off the 
 leaves, and chop it fine, with a few fweet-herbs. Seafon 
 pretty high with pepper and fait. Take a large gut 
 well cleaned, and fill it. Set on a faucepan of water, 
 and v/hen it boils, put it in, having firft pricked the gut 
 to prevent its burding. Boil it gently an hour, and 
 then lay it on clean draw to dry. 
 
 CHAP. XXV. 
 
 METHODS of KEEPING VEGE TAB LES t 
 
 FRUITS , &c. 
 
 To keep green Peas till Chrijlmas . 
 
 P EAS for this purpole mud be chofen very fine, 
 young, and frefh gathered. Shell them, and put 
 them into boiling water with fome fait in it. When 
 they have boiled five or fix minutes, throw them into a 
 cullender to drain. Then lay a doth four or five times 
 double on a table, and fpread them on it. Dry them well, 
 and having your bottles ready, fill them, and cover them 
 with mutton-fat fried. Cork them as clofe as pofiible, 
 tie a bladder over them, and let them in a cool place.— 
 
 When 
 
294 VEGETABLES, &c. 
 
 When you life them, boil the water, put in a little fait, 
 fome fugar, and a piece of butter. As foon as they are 
 enough, throw them into a fieve to drain ; then put them 
 into a faucepan with a good piece of butter, keep (halting 
 it round till the butter is all melted, then turn them into 
 a di(h, and fend them to table. 
 
 To keep French Beans all the Year. 
 
 LET your beans be gathered when they are quite dry, 
 and felect only thofe that are young and free from fpots. 
 When you have wiped them quite clean, put a layer of 
 fait at the bottom of a large (tone jar, and then a layer of 
 beans, then fait, then beans, and fo on till the jar is full. 
 Cover them with fait, tie a coarfe cloth over them, put a 
 board on that, and a weight to keep out the air. Set 
 them in a dry cellar, and when you take any out, be 
 fure to cover the reft quite clofe again. Wafh thofe you 
 take out very clean, and let them lie in foft water twenty- 
 four hours, (hiking the water frequently, and when you 
 boil them do not pur any fait in the water. If this ma¬ 
 nagement is clofely attended to, they will look as fine 
 and green as in their proper feafon. 
 
 To dry Artichoke Bottoms. 
 
 PLUCK your artichokes from the ftalks juft before 
 they come to their full growth, which will draw out all 
 the firings from the bottom. Boil them till you can 
 eafily take off the leaves, then lay the bottoms on tins, 
 and fet them in a cool oven. Repeat this till they are 
 d» y, which you may know by holding them up againft 
 the light, when, if they are dry enough, they will appear 
 tranfparent. Put them into paper bags, hang them up 
 in a dry place, and they will keep good the greateft part, 
 if not the whole year. 
 
 To keep Grapes. 
 
 WHEN you cut your bunches of grapes from the 
 vine, take care to leave a joint of the ftalk to them. 
 Hang them up in a dry room at a proper diftance from 
 each other, fo that they may hang feparate; for, unlefs 
 the air paftes freely between them, they will grow 
 3 mouldy^ 
 
FRUITS, &c. 295 
 
 mouldy, and be totally fpoiled. If they are managed 
 carefully, they will keep good fome months. 
 
 To keep Goofeberries. 
 
 PUT an ounce of roach-allum, beat very fine, into a 
 large pan of boiling hard-water. When you have picked 
 your goofeberries, put a few of them into the bottom of a 
 hair fieve, and hold them in the boiling water till they 
 turn white. Then take out the fieve, and fpread the 
 goofeberries between two clean cloths. Put more goofe¬ 
 berries in your fieve, and then repeat it till they are done. 
 Put the water into a glazed pot till next day ; then put 
 your goofeberries into wide-mouthed bottles, pick out 
 all the cracked and broken ones, pour the water clear 
 out of the pot, and fill your bottles with it. Then cork 
 them loofely, and let them Hand a fortnight. If they 
 rife to the corks, draw them out, and let them ftand two 
 or three days uncorked. Then cork them quite clofe, 
 and they will keep good ieveral months. 
 
 Another method of keeping goofeberries is this: Pick 
 them as large and dry as you can, and, having taken 
 care that your bottles are clean and dry, fill and cork 
 them. Set them in a kettle of water up to the neck, and 
 let the water boil very flowly till you find the goofeberries 
 are coddled; then take them out, and put in the reft of 
 the bottles till all are done. Have ready fome rofin 
 melted in a pipkin, and dip the necks of the bottles into 
 it, which will prevent all air from getting in at the cork. 
 Keep them in a cool dry place, and when you nfe them, 
 they will bake as red as a cherry, and have their natural 
 flavour. 
 
 To keep Walnuts. 
 
 PUT a layer of fea-fand at the bottom ora large jar, 
 and then a layer of walnuts; then fand, then the nuts, 
 and fo on till the jar is full; but be careful they do not 
 touch each other in any of the layers When you want 
 them for life, lay them in warm water far an hour, fhife 
 the water as it cools, rub them dry, and they will peel 
 well, and eat fweec. You may keep lemons by treating 
 them in the fame manner. 
 
 To 
 
~(p 
 
 FRUITS, &c. 
 
 r 
 
 To keep Mujhrooms. 
 
 TAKE large buttons, wafh them in the fame manner 
 as for dewing, and lay them on fi'eves with the dalks 
 upwards, Throw over them fome fait, to draw out the 
 water. When they are properly drained, put them into 
 a pot, and fet them in a cool oven for an hour. Then 
 take them out carefully, and lay them to cool and drain. 
 Boil the liquor that comes out of them with a blade or 
 two of mace, and boil it half away. Pour your mufh- 
 rooms inro a clean jar well dried, and when the liquor 
 is cold, pour it into the jar, and cover your mufhrooms 
 with it. Then pour over them rendered fuet, tie a 
 bladder over the jar, and fet them in a dry clofet, 
 where they will keep very well the greater part of the 
 winter. When you ufe them, take them out of the 
 liquor, pour over them boiling milk, and let them dand 
 an hour. Then dew them in the milk a quarter of an 
 hour, thicken them with dour, and a large quantity of 
 butter j but be careful you do not oil it. Then beat the 
 yolks of two eggs in a little cream, and put it into the 
 dew; but do not let it boil after you have put in the 
 eggs. Lay unloaded fippets round the infide of the difh, 
 then ferve them up, and they will eat nearly as good as 
 when frefh gathered. If they do not fade drong enough, 
 pqt in a little of the liquor. This is a very ufeful liquor, 
 as it will give a drong flavour of frefh mufhrooms to all 
 made difhes. 
 
 Another method of keeping mudirooms is this: 
 Scrape, peel, and take out the in Tides of large daps. 
 Boil them in their own liquor, with a little fait, lay them 
 in tins, fet them in a cool oven, and repeat it till they are 
 dry. Then put them in clean jars, tie them down clofe, 
 and keep them for life. 
 
 To bottle Cranberries. 
 
 GATHER your cranberries when the weather is quite 
 dry, and put them into clean bottles properly prepared 
 for the purpofe. Cork them up quite clofe, fet them in 
 a dry place, where neither heats nor damps can get to 
 them, and they will keep all the next feafon. 
 
 To 
 
I 
 
 FRUITS, &c. 297 
 
 To bottle green Currants. 
 
 GATHER your currants when the lun is hot upon 
 them; then (trip them from the {talks, and put them into 
 bottles. Cork them clofe, fet them in dry fand, and they 
 will keep all the winter. 
 
 To bottle Dawfons. 
 
 LET yourdamfons be gathered on a dry day, and before 
 they are ripe, or rather when they have juft turned their 
 colour. Put them into wide-mouthed bottles, cork them 
 up clofelv, and let them ftand a fortnight. Then look 
 them over, and if you fee any of them mouldy, or {dot¬ 
 ted, take them out, and cork the reft clofe down. Set 
 the bottles in fand, and the fruit will keep good till fpring. 
 
 *#* Remember, that every fpecies of the vegetable 
 tribe defigned for future ufe, at times out of their natural 
 feafon, muft be kept in dry places^# damps will not 
 only cover them with mould, but wilTalfo deprive them 
 of their fine flavour. It muft likewife be obferved, that 
 while you endeavour to avoid putting them into damp 
 places, you do not place them where they may get warm, 
 which, will be equally detrimental; fo that a proper atten¬ 
 tion muft be paid to the obfervance of a judicious me¬ 
 dium. When you boil any dried vegetables, always allow 
 them plenty of water. 
 
 CHAP. XXVI. 
 
 POSSETS, WHITE-POTS, GRUELS, &c. 
 
 Sack PoJJet. 
 
 B EAT up the yolks and whites of fifteen eggs, and 
 then ftrain them; then put three quarters of a 
 pound of white fugar into a pint of canary, and mix it 
 with your eggs in a bafon ; fet it over a chaffing-dilh of 
 coals, and keep continually ftirring it till it is fcalding 
 hot. In the mean time grate lome nutmeg in a quart of 
 milk, and boil it, and then pour it into your eggs and 
 VIII, P p wine 
 
298 P.OSSETS, Be. 
 
 wine while they are fealding hot. As you pour it, hold 
 your hand very high, and let another perfon keep flirring 
 it all the time. Then take it off, fet it before the fire 
 half an hour, and ferve it up. 
 
 Another method of making fack-poffet is this:. Take 
 four Naples bifeuits, and crumble them into a quart of 
 new milk when it boils. Juft give it a boil, take it off, 
 grate in fome nutmeg, and fweeten it to your palate. 
 Then pour in half a pint of fack, keep ftirring it all the 
 time, put it into your bafon, and fend it to table. 
 
 Wine PoJJet. 
 
 BOIL the crumb of a penny loaf in a quart of milk 
 till it is foft, then take it off the fire, and grate in half a • 
 nutmeg. Put in fugar to your tafte, then pour it. into a 
 china bowl, and put in by degrees a pint of Lilbon wine. 
 Serve it up with the toafted bread upon a plate. 
 
 Ale PoJJet. 
 
 TAKE a final! piece of white bread, put it into a pint 
 of milk, and fet it over the fire. Then put fome nutmeg 
 and fugar into a pint of ale, warm it, and when your 
 milk boils, pour it upon the ale. Let it ftand a few mi¬ 
 nutes to clear, and it will be fit for uie. 
 
 Orange Pojfet. 
 
 TAKE a crumb of a penny loaf grated fine, and 
 put it into a pint of water, with half the peel of a Seville 
 orange grated, or fugar rubbed upon it to take out the 
 effence. Boil all together till it looks thick and clear. 
 Then take a pint of mountain wine, the juice of half a 
 Seville orange, three ounces of fweet almonds, and one 
 of bitter, beat fine, with a little French brandy, and fugar 
 to your tafte. Mix all well together, put it into your 
 poffet, and ferve it up. Lemon poffet muft be made in 
 the lame manner. 
 
 A White Pot. 
 
 T AKE two quarts of milk, and beat up eight eggs, 
 and half the whites, with a little rofe-water, a nutmeg, 
 and a quarter of a pound of fugar. Cut a penny loaf 
 into very thin flicesj and pour the milk and eggs over 
 
 them 
 
WHITE-POTS, & c . 299 
 
 them. Put a little piece of butter on the top, fend it to 
 the oven, bake it for half an hour, and it will be fit for 
 ule. , 
 
 A Rice White Pet. 
 
 BOIL a pound of rice in two quarts of milk till it is 
 tender and thick. Beat it in a mortar with a quarter of a 
 pound of fweet-almonds blanched. Then boil two quarts 
 of cream, with a few crumbs of white bread, and two or 
 three blades of mace. Mix it well with eight eggs and a 
 little rofe-water, and fweeten to your tafte. Put in fome 
 candied orange or citron-peels cut thin, and fend it to a 
 flow oven. 
 
 Panada. 
 
 PUT a large piece of crumb of bread into a faucepan, 
 with a quart of water and a blade of mace. Let it boil 
 two minutes, then take out the bread and bruife it very 
 fine In a bafon. Mix as much water as you think it will 
 require, pour away the reft, and fweeten it to your palate. 
 Put in a piece of butter as big as a walnut, and grate in 
 a little nutmeg. 
 
 Another method of making panada is this: Slice the 
 crub of a penny-loaf very thin, and put it into a fauce¬ 
 pan with a pint of water. Boil it till it is very foft, and 
 looks clear; then put in a glafs of Madeira'wine, grate 
 in a little nutmeg, put in a lump of butter about the fize 
 of a walnut, and fugar to your tafte. Beat it exceeding 
 fine, then put it into a deep foup-dilh, and ferve it up.— 
 If you like it better, you may leave out the wine and 
 fugar, and put in a little cream and fait. 
 
 White Caudle. 
 
 TAKE two quarts of water, and mix it with four 
 fpoonsful of oatmeal, a blade or two of mace, and a 
 piece of lemon-peel. Let it boil, and keep ftirring it 
 often. Let it boil a quarter of an hour, and be careful 
 not to let it boil over, then ftrain it through a coarle fieve. 
 When you ufe it, fweeten it to your tafte, grate in a little 
 nutmeg, and what wine you think proper ; and if it is not 
 for a fick perfon, fqueeze in the juice of a lemon. 
 
 P p 2 Brown 
 
3 00 
 
 GRUELS, &c. 
 
 Brown Caudle. 
 
 MIX your gruel as for the white caudle, and when 
 you have ftrained it, add a quart of ale that is not bitter. 
 Boil it, then fweeten it to your palate, and add half a 
 pint of white wine or brandy. When you do not put in 
 white wine or brandy, let it be half ale. 
 
 White Wine Whey. 
 
 PUT in a large bafon half a pint of fkimmed milk 
 and half a pint of wine. When it has flood a few minutes, 
 pour in a pint of boiling water. Let it (land a little, and 
 the curd will gather in a lump, and fettle at the bottom. 
 Then pour your whey into a china-bowl, and put in a 
 lump of fugar, a fpring of balm, or a flice of lemon. 
 
 Water Gruel. 
 
 PUT a large fpoonful of oatmeal into a pint of 
 water, and flir it well together, and let it boil three or 
 four times, ftirring it often ; but be careful it does not 
 boil over. Then ftrain it through a fieve, fait it to your 
 palate, and put in a good piece of butter. Stir it 
 about with a fpoon till the butter is all melted, and it will 
 be fine and fmooth. 
 
 Barley Gruel. 
 
 PUT a quarter of a pound of pearl-barley, and a 
 flick of cinnamon, into two quarts of water, and let it 
 boil till it is reduced to one quart. Then ftrain it 
 through a fieve, add a pint of red wine, and fweeten it 
 to your tafte. 
 
 Barley Water. 
 
 TO two quarts of water put a quarter of a pound of 
 pearl-barley. When it boils, ftrain it very clean, boil 
 half away, and then ftrain it off. Add two fpoorisful of 
 white wine, and fweeten it to your palate. 
 
 Rice Milk . 
 
 BOIL half a pound of rice in a quart of water, 
 with a little cinnamon. Let it boil till the water is 
 wafted, but take care it does not burn. Then add three 
 pints of milk, with the yolk of an egg beat fine, and 
 
 Jfieep 
 
GRUELS, &c. 301 
 
 keep {Turing it while you put them in. When it boils, 
 pour it out, and fweeten it to your tafte. 
 
 Sago. 
 
 PUT a large fpoonful of fago into three quarters of 
 a pint of water. Stir it, and boil it gently till it is as 
 thick as you would have it. Then put in wine and fugar, 
 with a little grated nutmeg to your palate. 
 
 To mull Wine. 
 
 GRATE half a nutmeg into a pint of wine, and 
 fweeten it to your tafte with loaf-fugar. Set it over the 
 fire, and when it boils, take it off to cool. Beat up the 
 yolks of four eggs, put them into a little cold wine, and 
 mix them carefully with the hot, a little at a time. Then 
 pour it backwards and forwards till it looks fine and 
 bright. Set it on the fire again till it is quite hot and 
 pretty thick, pour it again backwards and forwards feveral 
 times, and ferve it in chocolate cups, with long ftices of 
 bread toafted of a nice light brown. 
 
 Goofeberry Fool. 
 
 SET two quarts of goofeberries on the fire in about 
 a quart of water. When they begin to fimmer, turn 
 yellow, and begin to plump, throw them into a cul¬ 
 lender to drain the water out} then with the back of a 
 fpoon carefully lqueeze the pulp through a fieve into a 
 difb } make them pretty fweet, and let them (land till 
 they are cold. In the mean time, take two quarts of 
 milk, and the yolks of four eggs, beat up with a little 
 grated nutmeg ; ftir it foftly over a flow fire. When it 
 begins to fimmer, take it off, and by degrees ftir it into 
 the goofeberries. Let it {land till it is cold, and ferve it 
 up. If you make it with cream, you need not put in any 
 
 eggs- 
 
 Capillaire. 
 
 TAKE fourteen pounds of loaf-fugar, three pounds 
 of coarfe fugar, and fix eggs well beat up. Put thefe 
 into' three quarts of water} boil it up twice, fkim it 
 well, and then add a quarter of a pint of orange-flower- 
 water. Strain it through a jelly-bag, and put it into 
 
 bottles 
 
302 M A D E WINES, &c. 
 
 bottles for ufe. A fpoonful or two of this fyrup put into 
 a draught of either warm or cold water makes it drink 
 exceeding pleafant. 
 
 Lemonade. 
 
 TAKE two Seville oranges and fix lemons, pare 
 them very thin, and fteep the parings four hours in two 
 quarts of water. Put the juice of fix oranges and twelve 
 lemons upon three quarters of a pound of fine fugar, and 
 when the fugar is melted, put the water to it in which 
 the parings have been fteeped. Add a little orange 
 flower water, and more fugar if neceflary. Prefs it 
 through a bag till it is fine, and then pour it into bottles 
 for ufe. 
 
 Orgeat. 
 
 MIX thirty bitter almonds with two pounds of fuet, 
 and beat them to a pafte. Then mix them with three 
 quarts of water, and firain it through a fine cloth. Add 
 orange and lemon-juice, with fome of the peel, and 
 fweeten it to your palate. 
 
 CHAP- XXVII. 
 
 made WINE S> &c. 
 
 A STRICT and attentive management in the 
 making of thefe articles is the grand means by 
 which they are to be brought to a proper ftate of per¬ 
 fection ; and without which, labour, expence, and dil- 
 repute, will be the final and difagreeable conl'equences. 
 To prevent the laft, and promote the firft, let a due 
 obfervance be paid to the following general rules: Do 
 not let fuch wines as require to be made with boiling 
 water (land too long after drawn before you get them 
 cold, and be careful to put in your barm in due time, 
 otherwile it will fret after being put into the calk, and 
 can never be brought to that Hare of finenefs it ought to 
 be. Neither mult you let it work too long in the butt, 
 tis it will be apt to taks olf the fweetnefs and flavour of 
 
MADE WINES, &c. 303 
 
 the fruit or flowers from which it is made. Let your 
 veffeLs be thoroughly clean and dry, and before you put 
 in the wine, give them a rince with a little brandy.— 
 When you find the wine has done fomenting, bung it 
 up dole, and after being properly fettled, it will draw to 
 your wiflies. 
 
 Raifin Wine. 
 
 PUT two hundred weight of raifins, with all their 
 italics, into a large hogshead, and fill it up with water. 
 Let them fteep a fortnight, ftirring them every day. 
 Then pour off the liquor, and prefs-the raifins. Put 
 both liquors together into a nice clean veffel that will 
 juft hold it, for remember, it muft be quite full. Let 
 it ftand till it is done hiding, or making the lead noife, 
 then flop it clofe, and let it ftand fix months. Then 
 peg it, and if you find it quite clear, rack it off into 
 another veffel. Stop it again clofe, and let it ftand three 
 months longer. Then bottle it, and when wanted for 
 ufe, rack it off into a decanter. 
 
 Currant Wine.. 
 
 GATHER your fruit on a fine dry day, and when 
 they are quite ripe. Strip them from the ftaiks, put 
 them into a large pan, and bruife them with a wooden 
 peftle. Let them lay twenty-four hours to foment, then 
 run the liquor through a hair fieve, but do not let your 
 hands touch it. To every gallon of liquor put two 
 pound and a half of white fugar, ftir it well together, 
 and put it into your veffel. To every fix gallons put in 
 a quart of brandy, and let it ftand fix weeks. If it is 
 then fine, bottle it; but if not, draw it off as clear as you 
 can into another veffel, or large bottles, and in a fortnight 
 put it into fmaller bottles, cork them clofe, and let it by 
 for ufe. 
 
 Gooseberry Wine. 
 
 GATTIER your goofeberries in dry weather, and at 
 the time when, they are about half ripe. Gather about a 
 peck in quantity, and bruife them well in a clean tub. 
 Then take a horfe-hair cloth, and prefs them as much as 
 poffible without breaking the feeds. Vvkhrn you have 
 
 fqueezed 
 
oq 4 * MADE WINE S, &c. 
 
 fqueezed out all the juice, put to every gallon three pounds 
 of fine dry pounded fugar. Stir it all together till the fu- 
 gar is diffolved, and then put it into a vefiel or calk, 
 which muft be quite filled. If the quantity is ten or 
 twelve gallons, let it Hand a fortnight j but, if it is a 
 twenty gallon cafk, it muft ftand three weeks. Set it in 
 a cool place then draw it off from the lees, and pour in 
 the clear liquor again. If it is a ten gallon cafk, let it 
 ftand three months if a twenty gallon cafk, four months s 
 then bottle it off, and it will draw clear and fine. 
 
 Pearl-Goofeberry Wine. 
 
 TAKE what quantity you think proper of the beft 
 pearl goofcberries, bruife them, and let them ftand all 
 night. The next morning prefs them clofe, drain off 
 the juice, and let it ftand leven or eight hours to fettle. 
 Then pou,r off the clear from the fettling, and meafure it 
 as you put it into your veffel, adding to every three 
 pints of liquor a pound of double-refined fugar. Break 
 your fugar into fmall lumps, and put it into the veffel, 
 with a piece of ifinglafs. Stir it well up, and at the end of 
 three months, bottle it, putting a lump of double-refined 
 fugar into every bottle. 
 
 Mulberry Wine. 
 
 GATHER your mulberries when they are in the 
 ftate of changing from red to black, and at that time of 
 the day when they are dry from the dew having been 
 taken off by the heat of the fun. Spread them loofe on 
 a cloth, or a clean floor, and let them lay twenty-four 
 hours. Then put them into a convenient veffel for the 
 purpofe, fqueeze out all the juice, and drain it from the 
 feeds. Boil up a gallon of water to each gallon of juice 
 you get out of them ; then fkim the water well, and add 
 a little cinnamon (lightly bruifed. Put to each gallon fix 
 ounces of white fugar-candy finely beaten. Skim and 
 ftrain the water, when it has been taken off, and is fettled j 
 and put to it fome more juice of the mulberries. To 
 every gallon of the liquor, add a pint of white or Rhe- 
 nifh wine. Let it ftand in a cafk to purge or fettle for 
 five or fix days, and then draw off the wine, and keep it 
 in a cool place. 
 
 4 
 
 Cowjlip 
 
MADE WINES.' 
 
 3 °5 
 
 Cowflip Wine. 
 
 TAKE twelve pounds of fugar, the juice of fix 
 lemons, the whites of four eggs well beaten, and fix gal¬ 
 lons of water. Put all together in a kettle, and let it 
 boil half an hour, taking care to Ikim it well. Take a 
 peck of cowflips, and put them into a tub, with the thin 
 peelings of fix lemons. Then pour on the boiling liquor, 
 and fbir them about j and when it is almoft cold,, put in 
 a thin toaft, baked hard, and rubbed' with yeaft. Let it 
 Hand two or three days to work. If you put in, before 
 you tun it, fix ounces of fyrup of citron or lemon, with a 
 quart of Rhenifh wine, it will be a confiderable addition. 
 The third day ftrain it off, and fqueeze the cowfiips 
 through a coarfe cloth. Then ftrain it through a flannel 
 bag, and tun it up. Leave the bung loofe for two or 
 three days till you are fure it has done working, and then 
 bung it down tight. Let it ftand three months, and 
 then bottle it off'. 
 
 R a (berry Wine. 
 
 PICK fome of the fineft rafberries you can get; 
 bruife them, and ftrain them through a flannel bag into 
 a ftone jar. To each quart of juice put a pound of 
 double-refined fugar, then ftir it well together, and cover 
 it clofe. Let it ftand three days, and then pour it off 
 clear. To a quart of juice put two pints of white wine, 
 and then bottle it off. In the courfe of a week it will be 
 fit for ule. 
 
 Damfon IVine. 
 
 AFTER you have gathered your damfons, which 
 muft be on a dry day, weigh them, and then bruife therm 
 Put them into a ftein that has a cock in it, and to every 
 eight pounds of fruit put a gallon of water. Boil the water, 
 fkim it, and pour it Raiding hot on your fruit. When 
 it has flood two days, draw it off, and put it into a 
 veffel, and to every gallon of liquor put two pounds and 
 a half of fine, fugar. Fill up the veffel, and flop it clofe, 
 and the longer it ftands the better. When you draw it 
 off, put a lump of fugar into every bottle. 
 
 • VIII, Q^q Orange 
 
3 c6 ' MADE WINES. 
 
 Orange JVine. 
 
 BOIL fix gallons of fpring wafer three quarters of art 
 hour, with twelve pounds of the beft powder fugar, and 
 the whites of eight or ten eggs well beaten. When it is 
 cold, put into it fix fpoonsful of yeaft. Take the juice 
 of twelve lemons, which, being pared, muft {land with 
 two pounds of white fugar in a tankard, and in the 
 morning {kirn off the top, and put it into the water.— v 
 Then add the juice and rinds of fifty oranges, but not the 
 white parts of the rinds, and then let them work all toge¬ 
 ther for forty-eight hours. Then add two quarts of Rhenifh 
 or white wine, and put it into your veffel. 
 
 Orange wine may be made with raifins, in which cafe 
 proceed thus: Take thirty pounds of new Malaga raifins 
 picked clean, chop them fmall, and take twenty large 
 Seville oranges, ten of which you muft prepare as thin as 
 for preferving. Boil about eight gallons of foft water 
 till one-third of it is wafted, and let it cool a little. Then 
 put five gallons of it hot upon your raifins and orange- 
 peel, ftir it well '“together, cover it up, and when it is 
 cold, let it (land five days, ftirring it once or twice a day. 
 Then pafs it through a hair fieve, and with a fpoon prefs 
 it as dry as you can. Put it in a rundlet fit for ufe, and 
 put to it the rinds of the other ten oranges, cut as thin as 
 the ftrft. Then make a fyrup of the juice of twenty 
 oranges, with a pound of white fugar, which muft be 
 done the day before you tun the wine. Stir it well toge¬ 
 ther, and (top it dole. Let it ftand two months to clear, 
 and then bottle it off. This wine greatly improves by 
 time, and will drink much better at the end of the third 
 year, than the firft. 
 
 Lemon V/int. 
 
 PARE off the rinds of fix large lemons, cut them, 
 and fqueeze out the juice. Steep the rinds in the juice, 
 and put to it a quart of brandy. Let it ftand three 
 days in an earthen pot dole ftopped; then fqueeze fix 
 more, and mix it with two quarts of fpring-water, and 
 as much fugar as will fweeten the whole. Boil the 
 water, lemons, and fugar together, and let it ftand till it 
 
MADE WINES. 307 
 
 is cool. Then add a quart of white wine, mix them 
 together, and run it through a flannel bag into fome 
 veffel. Let it (land three months, and then bottle it off. 
 Cork your bottles well, keep it cool, and it will be fit. to 
 drink in a month or fix weeks. 
 
 Lemon wine may be made to drink like citron-water, 
 the method of which is as follows: Pare fine a dozen of 
 lemons very thin, put the peels into five quarts of French 
 brandy, and let them ftand fourteen days. Then make 
 the juice into a fyrup with three pounds of Angle-refined 
 fugar; and when the peels are ready, boil fifteen gallons 
 of water with forty pounds of Tingle-refined fugar for 
 half an hour. Then put it into a tub, and when cool, 
 add to it one fpoonful of barm, and let it work two 
 days. Then turn it, and put it in the brandy, peels and 
 fyrup. Stir them all together, and clofe up your calk, 
 j'Let it ftand three months, then bottle it, and it will be as 
 pale and fine as any citron water. 
 
 Grape Wine. 
 
 PUT a .gallon of water to a gallon of grapes* 
 Bruife the grapes well, let them ftand a week without 
 ftirring, and then draw off the liquor. Put to a gallon 
 of the wine three pounds of fugar, and then put it into a 
 veflel, but do not fallen it up with your bung, till it has 
 done hilling. Let it ftand two months, and it will draw 
 clear and fine. If you think proper, you may then bot¬ 
 tle it, but remember your cork is quite clofe, and keep it 
 in a good dry cellar. 
 
 Cherry Wine. 
 
 GATHER your cherries when they are quite ripe, 
 pull them from the ftalks, and prefs them through a hair 
 fieve. To every gallon of liquor put two pounds of 
 lump fugar finely beaten, then ftir it together, and put it 
 into a vcftel that will juft contain it. When it has done 
 working, and ceafes to make any noife. Hop it clofe for 
 three months, and then bottle it off for ufe. 
 
 Elder Wine. 
 
 PICK your elder-berries when they are full ripe, put 
 them into a ftone jar, and let them in the oyen, or in a 
 
 CLq 2 kettle 
 
go8 MADE WINES. 
 
 kettle of boiling water till the jar is hot through ; then 
 take them out, and drain them through a coarfe fieve, 
 wringing the berries, and put the juice into a clean ket¬ 
 tle. To every quart of juice, put a pound of fine Lif- 
 bon fugar, let it boil, and fkim it well,' When it is clear 
 and fine, pour it into a-cade. To every-ten gallons of 
 wine, add an ounce of ifinglafs diffolved in cyder, and 
 fix whole eggs-. Clofe it up, let it ftand fix months, and 
 then bottle it. 
 
 Apricot Wine, 
 
 PUT three pounds of fugar into three quarts of war 
 ter, let them boil together, and fkim it well. Then put 
 in fix pounds of apricots pared and ftoned, and let them 
 boil till they are tender. Take out the apricots, and 
 when the liquor is cold, bottle it up. For prelent ufe 
 the apricots will make good marmalade. 
 
 Clary Wine. 
 
 PICK twenty-four pounds of Malaga raifins, and 
 chop them very frnall: then put them into a tub, and to 
 each pound put a quart of water. Let them deep ten or 
 eleven days, dirring it twice every day, and be careful to 
 keep it covered. Then drain it off, and put it into a vef- 
 fel, with about half a peck of the tops of clary, when it 
 is in bloffom. Stop it clofe for fix weeks, and then bot¬ 
 tle it off. In two or three months it will be fit to drink. 
 
 Quince Wine, 
 
 GATHER twenty large quinces when they are dry 
 and full ripe. Wipe them clean with a coarfe cloth, and 
 grate them with a large grate or rafp as near the cores as 
 you can; but do not touch the cores. Boil a gallon of 
 fpring-water, throw in your quinces, and let them boil 
 foftly about a quarter of an hour. Then drain .them 
 ■well into an earthen pan on two pounds of double-re¬ 
 fined fugar. Pare the peel off two large iemoris, throw 
 them in, and fqueeze the juice through a fieve. Stir it 
 about till it is very cold, and then toad a thin dice of 
 bread very brown, rub a little yead on it, and let the 
 whole ftand clofe covered twenty-four hours,. Then take 
 out the toad and lemon, put the wine in a calk, keep it 
 
 three 
 
MADE WINES. 309 
 
 three months, and then bottle it. If you make a twenty- 
 gallon calk, let it (land fix months before you bottle it; 
 and remember, when you drain your quinces, to wring 
 them hard in a coarfe cloth. 
 
 Blackberry Wine. 
 
 LET your berries be full ripe when you gather them 
 for this purpofe. Put them into a large veffel either of 
 wood or done, with a cock in it, and pour upon them as 
 much boiling water as will cover them. As foon as the 
 heat will permit you to put your hand into the veffel, 
 bruife them well till all the berries are broken. Then let 
 them dand covered till the berries begin to rife towards 
 the top, which they will do in three or four days. Then 
 draw off the clear into another veffel, and add to every 
 ten quarts of this liquor one pound of fugar. Stir it well 
 in, and let it dand to work, a week or ten days, in another 
 veffel like the fird. Then draw it off at the cork through 
 a jelly-bag into a large veffel. Take four ounces of ifin- 
 glafs, and lay it to deep twelve hours in a pint of white 
 wine. The next morning, boil it upon a How fire till it 
 is all diffolved. Then take a gallon of your blackberry 
 juice, put in the diffolved ifinglafs, give them a boil to¬ 
 gether, and pour all into the veffel. Let it dand a few 
 days to purge and fettle, then draw it off, and keep it in a 
 cool place. 
 
 , Turnip Wine. 
 
 TAKE what quantity of turnips you think proper,, 
 pare and flice them, put them into a cyder-prefs, and 
 fqueeze out all the juice. To every gallon of jujce put 
 three pounds of lump fugar, put both into a veffel jud 
 large enough to hold them, and add to every gallon of 
 juice half a pint of brandy. Lay fomething over the 
 bung for a week ; and when you are fure it has done 
 workings bung it down clofe. Let it dand three months, 
 then draw it off into another veffel, and when it is fine, 
 put it into bottles. 
 
 Birch Wine. 
 
 THIS wine mud be made at that time of the year 
 when the liquor ffom the birch-trees can be bed pro-’ 
 
 cured. 
 
3 io MADE WINES. 
 
 cured. This is in the beginning of March, when the fap 
 is rifing, and before the leaves fhoot out; for when the 
 lap is come forward, and the leaves appear, the juice, 
 by being long digefted in the bark, grows thick and co¬ 
 loured, which before was thin and clear. The method 
 of procuring the juice is, by boring holes in the body of 
 the tree, and putting in foftets, which are ufualiy made 
 of the branches of elder, the pith being taken out. You 
 may, without hurting the tree, if it is large, tap it in fe- 
 veral places, four or five at a time, and by that means 
 fave, from a good many trees, feveral gallons every day. 
 If you do not get enough in one day, the bottles in which 
 it drops muft be corked clofe, and refined or waxed; 
 however, make ufe of it as foon as you can. Take the 
 fap and boil it as long as any feum will rife, fkimming it 
 all the time. To every gallon of liquor put four pounds 
 of good fugar, and the thin peel of a lemon. Then boil 
 it half an hour, and keep fkimming it well. Pour it 
 into a clean tub, and when it is almoft cold, fet it to work 
 with yeaft fpread upon a toait. Let it (land five or fix 
 days, ftirring it often. Then take a cafk juft large 
 enough to hold all the liquor, fire a large match dipped 
 in brimftone, and throw it into the cafk; flop it clofe 
 till the match is extinguifhed, then tun your wine, and 
 lay the bung on lightly til! you find it has done working. 
 Stop it clofe, and, after three months, bottle it off. 
 
 • Rofe Wine 
 
 PUT into a well-glazed earthen vefiel three gallons 
 of rofe-water drawn with a cold ftill. Put into it a l'ufi- 
 ficient quantity of rofe-leaves,. cover it clofe, and fet it for 
 an hour in a kettle or copper of hot water, to take out 
 the whole ftrength and flavour of the rofes. When it is 
 cold, preis the rofe-leaves hard into the liquor, and fteep 
 frefh ones on it, repeating it till the liquor has got the 
 full ftrength of the rofes. To every gallon of liquor 
 put three pounds of loaf fugar, and ftir it well, that it may 
 melt and difperfe in every part. Then put it into a cafk, 
 or other convenient vefiel, to ferment, and throw into it 
 a piece of bread toafted hard and covered with veaft. 
 3 ' Let 
 
MADE WINES. 311 
 
 Let it ftand a month, when it will be ripe, and have all 
 the fine flavour and {cent of the rofes. If you add fome 
 wine, and fpices, it will be a confiderable improvement. 
 By the fame mode of infufion, wines may be made from 
 any other* flowers that have an odoriferous fcent, and 
 grateful flavour. 
 
 Ginger Wine. 
 
 PUT feven pounds of Lifbon fugar into four gallons 
 of fpring water, boil them a quarter of an hour, and keep 
 ikimming it all the time. When the liquor is cold, 
 iqueeze in the juice of two lemons, and then boil the 
 peels, with two ounces of ginger, in three pints of water, 
 for an hour. When it is cold, put it all together into a 
 barrel, with two fpoonsful of yeaft:, a quarter of an ounce 
 of ifinglals beat very thin, and two pounds of jar raifins. 
 Then clofe it up, let it ftand feven weeks, and then bottle 
 it off. 
 
 Balm Wine. 
 
 BOIL forty pounds of fugar in nine gallons of water 
 for two hours, Ikim it well, and put it into a tub to cool. 
 Take two pounds and a half of the tops of balm, bruife 
 them, and put them into a barrel with a little new yeaft ; 
 and when the liquor is cold, pour it on the balm. Mix it 
 well together, and let it ftand twenty-four hour, ftirring 
 it frequently during the time. Then clofe it up, and let 
 it ftand fix weeks, at the expiration of which rack it off, 
 and put a lump of fugar into every bottle. Cork it well, 
 and it will be better the fecond year than the ftrft. 
 
 Mead Wine. 
 
 THERE are different kinds of this wioe; but thofe 
 generally made are two, namely, lack-mead, and cow- 
 flip mead. Sack-mead is made thus: To every gallon 
 of water put four pounds of honey, and boil it three 
 quarters of an. hour, taking care properly to {kirn it. 
 To each gallon add half an ounce of hops, then boil it 
 half an hour, and let it ftand till the next day. Then 
 put it into your cafk, and to thirteen gallons of the liquor 
 add a quart of brandy or fack. Let it be tightly clofed 
 till the fermentation is over, and then Hop it up very 
 
MADE WINE S. 
 
 dolt. If you make as much as fills a large calk, you 
 muft not bottle ic off till it has ftood a year. 
 
 To make cowfiip-mead you'muff proceed thus : Put 
 thirty pounds of honey into fifteen gallons of water, and 
 boil it till one'gallon is wafted; fkim it, take it off the 
 fire, and have ready fixteen lemons cut in half. Take a 
 gallon of the liquor, and put it to the lemons. Pour the 
 reft of the liquor into a tub, with feven pecks of cowftips, 
 and let them ftand all night: then put in the liquor with 
 the lemons, eight fpoonsful of new yeaft, and a handful 
 of fweet-brier; ftir all well together, and let it work 
 three or four days. Then ftrain it, pour it into your calk, 
 let it ftand fix months, and then bottle it off for ufe. 
 
 It has been the peculiar finely- of the writer of this work 
 to render it the moft perfect , and confeqmntly the moji 
 ufeful CQnipofUion of the kind hitherto formed: To effect 
 this , he has endeavoured to enlarge and. improve his own 
 knowledge from that of others in the various Jubjects 
 contained in the Work ; and , from his extenfwe con¬ 
 nections , has happily met with many favourable op¬ 
 portunities of gratifying his wijhes One injiance among 
 the reft is in the article now before us , which was ob¬ 
 tained from a lady in the country , who has always been 
 ^particularly attached to meqd. wine, and whofe manner 
 of making it we Jhall give in her own zeords, as fent by 
 pojt in the month of January la ft. 
 
 “ To one hundred and twenty gallons of pure water, 
 n the loiter the better, I put fifteen gallons of clarified 
 <£ honey. When the honey is well mixed with the water, 
 <f I fill my copper, the lame as i ufe for brewing, which 
 4f only holds fixey gallons, and boil it till it is reduced 
 “ about a fourth part. 1 then draw it off, and boil the 
 <c remainder of the liquor in the fame manner. When 
 (i this iaft is about a fourth part wafted, 1 fill up the cop- 
 <f per with fome of that which .was firft boiled, and con- 
 tf tinue boiling it and filling it up, till the copper contains 
 tc the whole of the liquor, by which time it will of courfc 
 
 be half evaporated. 1 muft obferve, that in boiling, 
 u I never take off the icum, but, on the contrary, have 
 
MADE WINES, &c. 313 
 
 u it well mixed with the liquor whilft boiling by means of 
 £t a jet. When this is done, 1 draw it o.ff into under- 
 <c backs, by a cock at the bottom of the copper, in which 
 Cf I let it remain till it is only as warm as new milk.— 
 
 <c At this time i tun it up, and fuffer it to ferment in the 
 “ veifd, where it will form a thick head. As foon as it 
 fc is done working, I Hop it down very clofe, in order to 
 fc keep the air from it as much as pollible. I keep this, 
 f< as well as my mead, in a cellar or vault I have for the 
 <c - purpofe, being very deep and cool, and the door fhut. 
 fC fo dole, as to keep out, in a manner, all the outward 
 “ air j fo that the liquor is always in the fame tempera- 
 < c ture, being not at all affedted by the change of weather. 
 
 < c To this 1 attribute, in a great meafure, the goodnefs 
 < c of my mead.—Another proportion 1 have of making 
 ‘‘ mead, is to allow eighty pounds of purified honey to 
 “ one hundred and twenty gallons of foft water, which 
 “ I manage in the making, in all refpeCts, like the 
 cf before-mentioned, and it proves very pleafant, good 
 “ light drinking, and is, by many, preferred to the 
 cc other, which is much richer, and has a fuller flavour; 
 cc but at the fame time it is more inebriating, and apt to 
 ,c make the head ach, if drank in too large quantities*— 
 
 <f I imagine therefore,- upon the who!e, the laft to be 
 <c the proportion~that makes the whold'omeft liquor for 
 common drink, the other being rather, when properly 
 ff preferved, a rich cordial, fomething like fine old 
 (C Malaga, which, when in perfection, isjuftiy efteemed 
 cc the beft of the Spanifh wines. I choofe, in general, 
 to have the liquor pure and genuine, though many 
 cc like it beft when it has an aromatic flavour, and for 
 Ci this purpofe they mix elder, rolemary, and marjoram » 
 “ flowers with it; and alfo ufe cinnamon, clqvers, gin- 
 tc ger, and cardamums, in various proportions, ac- 
 <c cording to their tafte : But I do not. approve of this 
 <c laft practice at all, as green herbs are apt to make 
 “ mead drink flat; and too many cloves, befldes being 
 “ very predominant in the tafte, make it of too high a 
 tc colour. I never bottle my mead before it is half a 
 tc year old, and when I do, I take care to have it wl-11 
 VIII. R r u corked 
 
314 MADE WINES, &c. 
 
 “ corked, and keep it in the lame vault wherein it ftood 
 *• whilft in the cade.” 
 
 L&ragoJJa Wine , or Englifh Sack . 
 
 TO every quart of water put a fprig of rue, and to 
 every gallon put a handful ol fennel roots.^. Boil thefe 
 half an hour, then drain it, and to every gallon of liquor 
 put three pounds of honey. Boil it two hours, and fkim it 
 well. When it is cold, pour it off, and turn it into a calk 
 or veflel that will juft hold it. Keep it twelve months, 
 and then bottle it off. 
 
 Englijh Fig Wine. 
 
 MAKE choice of the largefl blue figs you can get, 
 gather them when pretty ripe, and deep them in white 
 wine. Cut fome flits in them that they may fwell and 
 gather in the fubdance of the wine. Then flice fome 
 ether figs, and let them fimmer over a fire in clear water 
 till they are reduced to a kind of pulp. Then drain out 
 the water, preffing the pulp hard, and pour it as hot as 
 pofiible on the figs that are imbrued in the wine. Let 
 the quantities be nearly equal, but the water fomewhat 
 . more than the wine and figs. Let them dand twenty- 
 four hours, then mafh them well together, and draw off 
 what will run without fqueezing. Then prefs the reft, 
 and if ip is not fweet enough, add a fufficient quantity of 
 fugar to make it fo. Let it ferment, and add a little 
 honey and fugar-candy to it; then fine it with whites of 
 eggs and a little ifinglafs, and draw it off for ufe. 
 
 Rajberry Brandy . 
 
 MIX a pint of water with two quarts of brandy, and 
 put them into a pitcher large enough to hold them, with, 
 four pints of rafberries. Put in half a pound of loaf- 
 fugar, and let it remain for a week clofe covered. Then 
 take a piece of flannel, with a piece of Holland over it, 
 and let it run through by degrees. In about a week it 
 will be perfectly fine, when you may rack it offi but be 
 careful the bottles are well corked. 
 
 Orange 
 
CORDIAL WATERS, &c. 315 
 
 Orange. B randy. 
 
 PUT into three quarts of brandy, the chips of eighteen 
 Seville oranges, and let them deep a fortnight in a done 
 bottle clofe (topped. Boil two quarts of lpring water, 
 with a pound and a half of the fined fugar, near an hour 
 very gently. Clarify the water and fugar with the white 
 of an egg, then drain it through a jelly-bag, and boil it 
 near half away. When it is cold, drain the brandy into 
 the fyrup. 
 
 Lemon Brandy. 
 
 MIX five quarts of water with one gallon of brandy; 
 then take two dozen of lemons, two pounds of the bed 
 fugar, and three pints of milk. Pare the lemons very 
 thin, and lay the peel to deep in the brandy twelve hours. 
 Squeeze the lemons upon the fugar, then put the water 
 to it, and mix all the ingredients together. Let it dand 
 twenty-four hours, and then drain it. 
 
 Black Cherry Brandy. 
 
 STONE eight pounds of black cherries, and put on 
 them a gallon of the bed brandy. Bruife the dones in a 
 mortar, and then put them into your brandy. Cover 
 them up clofe, and let them dand a month or fix weeks. 
 Then pour it clear from the fediments, and bottle it.-— 
 Morello cherries, managed in this manner, make a fine 
 rich cordial. 
 
 - - —~-- 
 
 CHAP. XXVIII. 
 
 CORDIAL W A T E R S. 
 
 I N the procefs of making thefe articles, feveral things 
 are neceflary to be obferved, in order to bring them 
 to their proper date of perfection. If yoi r dill is an 
 alembic, you mud fill the top with cold water when you 
 fet it on, and clofe the bottom with a little ftiff pade made 
 of flour and water. If you ufe a hot dill, when you 
 put on the top, dip a cloth in white lead and oil, and 
 
 R r 2 > lay 
 
31 6 CORDIAL WATERS. 
 
 lay it clofe over the eggs, and a coarfe cloth well 
 foaked in water on die tGp; and when it becomes dry 
 from the heat of the fire, wet it, and lay it on again. It 
 will require but little fire, but what there is muft be as 
 clear as poflible. All Ample waters muft {land two or 
 three days before they are bottled off, that the fiery tafte 
 which they will naturally receive from the (till, may £>e 
 fully extracted. 
 
 Rofe Water* 
 
 GATHER your roles when they are dry and full 
 blown, pick off the leaves, and to every peck put a 
 quart of water. Then put them into a cold (till, and 
 make a flow fire under it; for the more gradually it is 
 diftilled, the better it will be. Then bottle it, and in 
 two or three days you may cork it up for ule. 
 
 Lavender Water.. 
 
 TO every pound of lavender- neps put a quart of 
 water. Put them into a cold ftill, and make a flow fire 
 under it. Diftill it off very flowly, and put it into a pot 
 till you have diftilled all your water.' Then clean your 
 ffill well out, put your lavender-water into it, and diftill 
 it off as flowly as before. Then put it into bottles, cork 
 them quite clofe, and let them by for ufc. 
 
 Peppermint Water. 
 
 GATHER your peppermint when it is full grown, 
 and before it feeds. Cut it into fhort length:, put it into 
 your ftill, and cover it with water. Make a good fire 
 under it, and when it is near boiling, and the ftill begins 
 to drop, if you find your fire too hot, draw a little awajq 
 that the liquor may not boil over. The flower your ftill 
 drops, the clearer and ftronger will be the water; but at 
 the fame time you m'uft not let it get too weak. The 
 next morning bottle it off and after it has flood two or 
 three daks, to take off the fiery tafte of the ftill, cork it 
 well, and it will preferve its ftrength a confiderable time. 
 
 Penny-Royal Water. 
 
 AT the time yotftgather your penny-royal let it be full 
 grown, but not fo far advanced as to be in bloffom. Fill 
 
 your 
 
CORDIAL WATERS. 317 
 
 your cold flill with it, and put it half fuil of water.—■ 
 Make a moderate fire under it, and diftill it off cold. 
 Then put it into bottles, and after two or three day, cork 
 it up for ufe. 
 
 Cordial Water. 
 
 TAKE of wormwood, horehound, feverfew, and 
 lavender-cotton, each three handsfbl; of rice, pepper¬ 
 mint, and Seville orange peel, each one handful. Mix 
 them well together, and fteep them all night in red wine, 
 or the bottoms of ftrong beer. Then diftill them 
 pretty quick in a hot ftill, and it will be a fine cordial to 
 take as bitters. 
 
 Angelica Water. 
 
 WASH and cut a quantity of the leaves of angelica, 
 and then lay them on a table to dry. When they are 
 quite dry, throw them into an earthen pot, and put 
 to them four quarts of ftrong wine lees. Let it infule 
 twenty-four hours, ftirring it twice in the time. Then 
 put it into a warm ftill, or an alembic, and draw it off. 
 Cover your bottles with paper, prick holes in it, and let 
 it ftand two or three days. Then mix all together, 
 fweeten it, and when it is fettled, bottle it up, cork it 
 clofe, and let it by for ufe. 
 
 Cordial Poppy If'ater. 
 
 PUT a peck of poppies into a proper veffel with two 
 gallons of good brandy, let it ftand forty-eight hours, 
 and then ftrain off the liquor. Stone a pound of raifins 
 of the fun, and take an ounce of coriander feeds, an 
 ounce of fweet fennel feeds, and an ounce of liquorice 
 lliced. Bruife them all together, and put them into the 
 brandy, with a pound or good powder fugar. Let it 
 (land two months : ftirring it every day ; then ftrain it 
 off, and bottle it for ufe. 
 
 Surfeit Water. 
 
 TAKE fcurvy-grafs, brook-lime, water-creffes, 
 Roman wormwood, rue, mint, balm, fage, and chives, 
 of each one handful; poppies, if frefh, half a peck; 
 but if they are^dry, only half that quantity; cochineal 
 
 3 and 
 
3 i8 CORDIAL WATERS. 
 
 and faffron, fix-penny worth of each : annifeeds, carra- 
 Hay-feeds, coriander-feeds, and cardamom feeds, of 
 each an ounce; two ounces of fcraped liquorice, a pound 
 of fplit figs, the fame quantity of raifins of the fun 
 Honed, an ounce of juniper-berries bruifed, an ounce of 
 beaten nutmeg, an ounce of mace bruifed, and the fame 
 of fweet fennel-feeds alfo bruifed; a few flowers of 
 lofemary, marigold and fage. Put all thefe into a large 
 Hone jar, and pour on them three gallons of French 
 brandy. Cover it clofe, and let it (land near the fire for 
 three weeks. Stir it three times a week, and at the expi¬ 
 ration of that time drain it off. Bottle your liquor, and 
 pour on the ingredients a quart more of French brandy. 
 Let it ftand a week, dirring it once a day ; then didill it in 
 a coid (fill, and you will have a fine white forfeit-water. 
 Bottle it dole, and it will retain its virtues a coniiderable 
 time. 
 
 Orange or Lemon Water. 
 
 PUT three gallons of brandy and two quarts of fack 
 to the outer rinds of an hundred oranges, or lemons. 
 Let them deep in it-one night, and the next day didill 
 them in a cold dill. A gallon, with the proportion of 
 peels, .will be fufficient for one dill, and from that you 
 may draw off more than three quarts. Draw it off till 
 you find it begins to tade four. Sweeten to your pa¬ 
 late with double-refined fugar, and mix the three firft 
 runnings together. If it is lemon-water, perfume it'with 
 two grains of ambergris and one of mufk. Grind them 
 fine, tie them in rag, and let it hang five or fix days in 
 each bottle ; or you may put with them three or four 
 drops of tin&ure of ambergris. - Cork your bottles clofe, 
 and it will keep good a confiderable time. 
 
 Fever IVater. 
 
 TAKE fix ounces of Virginia fnake root, four ounces 
 of carduus feeds and marigold flowers, and twenty green 
 walnuts; carduus-water and poppy-water two quarts of 
 each, and two ounces of hartfhorn. Slice the walnuts, 
 and deep all in the waters a fortnight. Then add to it 
 m ounce of treacle, and didiil the whole in an alembic 
 
 well 
 
CORDIAL WATERS. 319 
 
 well doled in the manner defcribed in the introduction to 
 this chapter. 
 
 Aqua Mirabilis. 
 
 TAKE cubebs, cardumums, galingal, cloves, mace, 
 nutmegs, and cinnamon, of each two drachms, and bruife 
 them fmall. Then take a pint of the juice of calendine, 
 half a pint of the juice of fpearmint, and the fame quan¬ 
 tity of the juice of balm, flowers of melilot, cowflip, rofe- 
 mary, borrage, buglofs, and marigolds, of each three 
 drachms; feeds of fennel, coriander, and carraway, of 
 each two drachms, two quarts of the bell fack, and a 
 quart of white wine: brandy, the drongefl angelica 
 water, and rofe-water, of each a pint. Bruife the fpices. 
 and feeds, and deep them, with die herbs and flowers, in 
 the juices, waters, fack, white wine, and brandy, all 
 night. In the morning difliil it in a common dill pafted 
 up, and from this quantity you may draw off a gallon at 
 lead. Sweeten it to your tade with fugar-candy, then 
 bottle it up, and keep it in a cool place. 
 
 Black Cherry Water. 
 
 T AKE fix pounds of black cherries, bruife them 
 well, and put to them the tops of rofemary, fweet mar¬ 
 joram, fpearmint, angelica, balm, and marigold flowers, 
 of each a handful; dried violets an ounce; annifeeds, and 
 fweet fennel feeds, of each half an ounce bruited. Cut 
 the herbs fmall, mix all together, and didill them off in a 
 cold dill. 
 
 Treacle Water. 
 
 TAKE four pounds of the juice of green walnuts; 
 rue, caFduus, marigold, and balm, of each three-pounds ; 
 roots of butter-bur half a pound ; roots of burdock, one 
 pound; angelica and mader-wort, of each half a pound; 
 leaves of fcordium, fix handsful; Venice treacle and 
 mithridates, of each half a pound ; old Canary wine, 
 two pounds; white wine v inegar, fix pounds, and the 
 fame quantity of the juice of lemons. JDidill all thefe to¬ 
 gether in an alembic. 
 
 Stag's-Heart Water. 
 
 TAKE four handsful of balm, and a handful of fweet 
 marjoram; rofemary flowers, clove-gilliflowers dried, 
 
 role- 
 
320 CORDIAL WATERS. 
 
 rofe-buds dried, and borrage flowers, of each an ounce- 
 marigold flowers half an ounce, lemon-peel two ounces, 
 mace and cardamum thirty grains of each; cinnamon 
 hxty grains; yellow and white fanders, of each a quarter 
 of an ounce; fhavings of hartrhorn an ounce, and the 
 peels of nine oranges. Cut them very fmall, and pour 
 upon them two quarts of the belt Rhenifh or the befl 
 white wine. Stop it very clofe, aud let it infule nine or 
 ten days in a cellar or cool place. Take a flag’s heart, 
 and cut off*$hefat. Cut it very lmall, and pour on it as 
 much Rhenim, or white wine, as will cover it. Let it 
 hand all night covered in a cool place, and the next day 
 add to it the before-mentioned ingredients, mixing the 
 whole well together, and adding a pint of the befl rofe- 
 water, and a pint of the juice of celandine. Put the 
 whole into a.glafs flill, and raife it well, in order to keep 
 in the fleam both of the flill and receiver. When it is 
 drawn off, put it into bottles, cork them well, fet them 
 in a cool place, and the water will keep good-a cofifider- 
 able time. 
 
 CHAP. XXIX. 
 
 THE ART OF BR EWING, 
 
 npo complete the Houfekeeper’s knowledge in all 
 JL domeflic concerns, it is effentially neceffary fire 
 Ihould be properly acquainted with the method or br^w- 
 ing malt liquors, more efpecially Ihould fhe be principal 
 provider for' a numerous family. This bufinefs "will 
 therefore form the fubject of the prefent chapter, and the 
 mode to be purfued throughout the whole procefs we 
 fhall endeavour to lay down in fo clear, concife, and in¬ 
 telligent a mannef, as' may eafily guide the unacquainted, 
 and, perhaps, in lome degree, be materially beneficial to 
 thole already informed. 
 
 SECT. 
 
321 
 
 BREW f N G. 
 
 SECT. r. 
 
 The Principles on which a Copper Jhould be built for 
 
 Brewing. 
 
 THERE are feveral things that demand peculiar no¬ 
 tice previous to the adual procefs of brewing malt li¬ 
 quors ; and thofe are with refped to the various imple¬ 
 ments neceffary to effect and facilitate a proper execution 
 of fo important a bufinefs. 
 
 The firft thing that prefents itfelf among thefe is the 
 copper, the proper pofition of which, and manner of its 
 being let, are matters that require very attentive conli- 
 deration. The molt beneficial mode to be adopted is 
 this :—Divide the heat of the fire by a ftop j and, if the 
 door and draught be in a dired line, the ftop mull be 
 ereded from the middle of each outline of the grating, 
 and parallel with the centre lides of the copper; by 
 which method the middle of the fire will be diredly un- 
 
 4 
 
 der the bottom of the copper. The ftop is compofed of 
 a thin wall in the center of the right and left lides of the 
 copper, which is to afeend half the height of it. On the 
 top mull be left a cavity, from four to fix inches, for a 
 draught for that half part of the fire which is next the 
 door of the copper; and then the building mult clofe 
 all round to the finifhing at the top. Ey this method the 
 heat will communicate from the outward part of the fire 
 round the outward half of your copper, through the ca¬ 
 vity, as will the fartheft part of the flue, which alfo con¬ 
 tracts a conjundion of the whole, and caufes the flame 
 to 'glide gently and equally round the bottom of the 
 copper. 
 
 The advantages derived from your copper being fet 
 in this manner are very great, nor is the laving of fuel 
 the leaft objed of confideration among them. It has a 
 material pre-eminence over wheel-draughts; for with 
 them, if there is not particular attendance given to the 
 hops, by ftirring them down, they are apt to ftick to the 
 lides, and fcorch, which will deprive the liquor of hav¬ 
 ing its fweet and proper flavour. By the before men- 
 IX. S s tioned 
 
BREWING. 
 
 322 
 
 tioned method the copper will laft many years more than 
 it will by the wheel-draught; for that draws with fo 
 much violence, that Ihould your liquor be beneath the 
 communication of the fire, your copper will thereby be 
 liable to injury; whereas, by the other method, you may 
 boil half a copper full without fear of any bad confe- 
 quence. 
 
 SECT. II. 
 
 On the proper Management ofVeffels for Brewing , and the 
 Necejjity oj keeping them in due Order. 
 
 ON the preceding day that you intend to brew, 
 make a ftridt examination into all your vefiels, that they 
 are thoroughly clean, and in a proper ftate for ufe. 
 They Ihould never be converted to any other purpofe, 
 except for the ufe of ^making wines; and, even in that 
 cafe, after done with, fhould be properly cleanfed, and 
 kept in a place free from dirt. Let your cafk be well 
 cleaned with boiling water; and if the bung-hole is large 
 enough, ferub them well with a imall birch-broom, or 
 brufh. If you find them bad, and a very mufty feent 
 comes from them, take out the heads, and let them be 
 ferubbed clean with a hand-brufh, fand, and fullers- 
 earth. When you have done this, put on the head again, 
 and feald it well, then throw in a piece of unflacked lime, 
 and ftop the bung dole. When they have ftood fome 
 time, rince them well with cold water, and they will be. 
 properly prepared for ufe. 
 
 The greateft attention muff likewile be paid to the 
 ' care of your coolers, which are implements of very ma¬ 
 terial CQnfequuence ; for, if they are not properly kept in 
 order, your liquor, from a fecret and unaccountable caufe, 
 abftrafls a naufeoufnefs that will entirely deftroy it. This 
 often proceeds from wet having been infufed in the wood, 
 as it is fome times apt to lodge in the crevices of old 
 coolers, and even infect them to fuch a degree, that 
 it will not depart, though many walkings and fealdings are 
 applied. One caufe incidental to this evil is, fuffering 
 
 women 
 
BREWING. 323 
 
 women v to waih in a brewhoufe, which ought, by no 
 means, to be permitted, where any other convenience can 
 be had; for nothing can be more hurtful than the rem¬ 
 nants of dirty foap l'uds left in veftels calculated only for 
 the purpofe of brewing. 
 
 When you prepare the coolers, be careful never to let 
 the water ftand too long in them, as it will l'oak in, and 
 foon turn putrid, when the ftench will enter the wood, 
 and render them almoft incurable. To prevent fuch 
 confequences, as well as to anl'wer good purpofes, it has 
 been recommended, where fixed brewhoufes are intended, 
 that all coolers ihouid be leaded. It muft be admitted, 
 in the firft place, that fuch are exceeding cleanly; and 
 fecondly, that it expedites the cooling of part of your li¬ 
 quor worts, which is very necefifary to forward it for 
 working, as well as afterwards for cooling the whole; 
 for evaporation caufes confiderably more wafte than pro¬ 
 per boiling. It is alfo indifpenlably necefTary that your 
 coolers be well fcoured with cold water two or three 
 times, cold water being more proper than hot to efFedl a 
 perfect cleanfing, efpecially if they are in a bad condition, 
 from the undifcovered filth that may be in the crevices. 
 The application of warm water will drive the infection 
 farther; fo that if your liquor be let into the coolers, and 
 any remain in the crevices, the heat will colledt the foul- 
 nefs, and render the whole both difagreeable and un- 
 wholefome. 
 
 The mafh-tub in particular muft be kept perfectly 
 clean; nor muft the grains be left in the tub any longer 
 than the day after brewing, left it ihouid four the tub; 
 for, if there is a four fcent in the brewhoufe before your 
 beer is tunned, it will be apt to infedt your liquor and 
 worts.-—From fuch inconveniencies, the neceflity ofclean- 
 linefs in utenfils for brewing is fufficiently obvious, 
 
 SECT. III. 
 
 Directionsf'Jr the Management of the Mafh-tub , Penfaf\&c. 
 
 TO render your mafh-tub more perfedl and lafting, 
 you Ihouid have a circular pifece of brafs or copper, to 
 
 S s 2 inlay 
 
324 B R E W I N G. 
 
 inlay and line the whole where the penftaff enters, to let 
 the wort run off into the underbade. The penftaff 
 fhould be alfo ftrongly ferrelled with the fame metal, and 
 both well and taperly finifhed, fo that you can place it 
 properly. By this method you have it run from > the 
 finenefs of a thread to the fullnefs of an inch tube, &c. 
 firft dreffing your mulk-bafket with draw, fern, or fmall 
 bufhy furze without ftems, fix or eight inches in from 
 the bottom of your balket, and fet quite perpendicularly 
 over the whole with the penftaff, through the center of 
 the balket, and the middle of the furze or feme, and 
 fattened to the hole of the tub. To fteady it properly, 
 you muft have a piece of iron let into a ftaple fattened to 
 the tub, at the neareft part oppofite the balket, and to 
 reach nearly to it; and from that piece another added on 
 a jointed fwivel, or any other contrivance, fo as to be 
 at liberty to let round the balket like a dog’s collar, and 
 to enter into the ftaple formed in the fame to pin it faft, 
 and by adding a half-circular turn in the collar, in which 
 you have room to drive in a wedge, which will keep it 
 lafe down to the bottom, when there can be no danger 
 of its being difturbed by {timing the mafh, which will 
 otherwile fometimes be the cafe. When you let go, you 
 will raifethe penftaff to your own degree of running, and 
 then fatten the ftaff, by the help of two wedges tightened 
 between the ftaff and the bafket. 
 
 In procefs of time the copper-work, like every thing 
 elfe, will become defective, and when this is the cafe, you 
 may repair the imperfedtion by the following fimple me¬ 
 thod. Work the penftaff in the brafs focket with emery 
 and water, or oil, which will make it perhaps more per¬ 
 fect than when new. The like method is fometimes taken 
 even with cocks juft purchafed, in order to prevent their 
 decaying fo foon as they otherwife would. 
 
 A very material addition may be made to the conve¬ 
 nience of the underbacks, by having a piece of copper to 
 line the hole in the bottom, which may be flopped with 
 a cloth put fingly round a large cock ; and when it is 
 fattened down for the wort to run, it will be neceffary to 
 pet a large weight on die cock, wflich will prevent its 
 
 flying 
 
BREWING, 325 
 
 Eying up by the heat. When the liquor is pumped clean 
 out of the back, the cloth round the cock will enable 
 you to take out the cock with eafe; and there fhould be 
 a drain below the underback to carry off the water, 
 which will enable you to walh it perfe&ly clean with 
 very little trouble. This drain Ihould be made with a 
 clear defeent, fo as no damp may remain under the 
 back. With the conveyance of water running into your 
 copper, you may be enabled to work that water in a double 
 quantity, your underback being filled by the means 
 of letting it in at your lejfure, out of your copper, 
 through a fhoot to the mafh-tub, and lb to the under¬ 
 back. Thus you will have a referve againft the time 
 you vvifh to fill your copper, which may be completed 
 in a few minutes, by pumping while the under cock is 
 running.—Thus much for the principal utenfils in brew¬ 
 ing, which we again recommend to be always kept in a 
 perfed: ftate of cleanlinefs. 
 
 SECT. IV. 
 
 Of the proper Time oj Brewing. 
 
 THE month of March is generally confidered as one 
 of the principal feafons for brewing malt liquor for long 
 keeping; and the reafon is, becaufe the air at that time 
 of the year is, in general, temperate, and contributes to 
 the good working or fermentation of the liquor, which 
 principally promotes its prefervation and good keeping. 
 Very cold, as well as very hot weather, prevents the 
 free fermentation or working of liquors; fo that, if you 
 brew in very cold weather, unlefs you ufe forne means 
 to warm the cellar while new drink is working, it will 
 never clear itfelf in the manner you would with, and the 
 fame misfortune will arife if, in very hot weather, the 
 cellar is not put into a temperate fiate^ the confequence 
 of all which will be, that fuch drink will be muddy and 
 four, and, perhaps, in fuch a degree, as to be paft reco¬ 
 very. Such accidents often happen, even in the proper 
 feafon for brewing, and that owing to the badnefs of the 
 
 cellar j 
 
326 BREWING. 
 
 cellar; for when they are dug in fpringy grounds, or arc 
 fubject to damps in the winter, the liquor will chill, and 
 become vapid or fiat. When cellars are of this nature, 
 it is advifable to make your brewings in March, rather 
 than in October; for you may keep your cellars tempe¬ 
 rate in fumfner, but cannot warm them in winter. Thus 
 your beer brewed in March will have due time to fettle 
 and adjuft itfelf before the cold can do it any material 
 injury. 
 
 All cellars for keeping liquor fhould be formed infuch 
 a manner, that no external air can get into them ; for the 
 variation of the air abroad, were there free admifiion of 
 it into the cellars, would caufe as many alterations in the 
 liquors, and would thereby keep them in fo unfettled a 
 flate, as to render them unfit for drinking. A conftant 
 temperate air digefts and lbftens malt liquors, fo that 
 they tafte quite foft and fmooth to the palate ; but in 
 cellars, which are unequal, by letting in heats and colds, 
 the liquor will be apt to fuftain very material injury. 
 
 S E C T. V. 
 
 On the Quality of Water proper for Brewing. 
 
 IT has evidently appeared, from repeated experience, 
 that the water belt in quality for brewing is river-water, 
 fuch as is foft, and has received thofe benefits which na¬ 
 turally arife from the air and fun; for this eafily pene¬ 
 trates into the grain, and extracts its virtues. On the 
 contrary, hard waters aftringe and bind the power of the 
 malt, fo that its virtue is not freely communicated to the 
 liquor. There are fome, who hold it as a maxim, that 
 all water that will mix with foap is fit for brewing, 
 which is the cafe with molt river-water; and it has been 
 frequently experienced, that when the fame quantity of 
 malt has been ufed to a barrel of river-water, as to a 
 barrel of fpring-water, the brewing from the former has 
 excelled the other in firength above five degrees in twelve 
 months keep. It is likewife to be obferved, that the 
 mjjlt was not only the fame in quantity for one barrel as 
 
BRE W I N G. 327 
 
 for the other, but was the fame in quality, having been 
 all meafured from the lame heap. The hops were alio 
 the fame, both in quality and quantity, and the time of 
 boiling equal in each. They were worked in the fame 
 manner, and tunned and kept in the fame cellar. This 
 is the moil demonllrable and undeniable proof that the 
 difference took place from the difference of the quality of 
 the water. 
 
 Various experiments have been tned, by gentlemen 
 in different counties, to afcertain the truth of this very 
 eflential difference in malt liquors, arifing from the qua¬ 
 lity of the water; but, after all, they have been left in a 
 ffate of perplexity. 4 
 
 One circumitance has greatly puzzled the ableft 
 brewers, and that is, when leveral gentlemen in the lame 
 town have employed the lame brewer, have had the fame 
 malt, the fame-hops, and the fame water, and brewed in 
 the fame month, and broached their drink at the fame 
 time, yet one has had beer exceeding fine, ftrong, and 
 well-tafted, while the others have had hardly any worth 
 drinking. In order to account for this very fingular dif¬ 
 ference, three reafcns may be advanced. Firft, it might 
 ariie from the difference of weather, which might happen 
 at the feveral brewings in this month, and make an al¬ 
 teration in the working of the liquors. Secondly, the 
 yealf, or barm, might be of different forts, or in different 
 Hates, wherewith' thefe liquors were worked; and. 
 Thirdly, the cejlars might not be equally adapted for 
 the purpofe. The goodnefs of fuch drink as is brewed for 
 keeping, in a great meafure, depends on the proper form 
 an.d temperature of the cellars in which i,t is placed. 
 
 Beer made at Dorchefter, which, in general, is greatly 
 admired, is, for the mod part, brewed with chalky- 
 water, which is to be had in moft parts of that county ; 
 and as the foil is generally chalk, the cellars, being dug in 
 that dry foil, contribute to the good keeping of their 
 drink, it being of a clofe texture, and of a drying qua¬ 
 lity, fo as to diffipate damps; for it has been found by 
 experience, that damp cellars are injurious to the keeping 
 of liquor, as well as injurious to the calks. 
 
 Water 
 
328 BREWING. 
 
 Water that is naturally of a hard quality may be> 
 in fome degree, fofcened byexpofing it to the air and fun, 
 and putting into it fome pieces of loft chalk to infufe; 
 or, when the water is fet on to boil, in order to be poured 
 on the malt, put into it a quantity of bran, which will 
 take off fome part of its fharpnefs, and make it better 
 extract the virtues of the malt. 
 
 \ 
 
 SECT. VI. 
 
 Of the Vitality of the Malt and Hops mojl proper to he 
 chofen for Brewings with fome necejfary O/fervations on 
 the Management of each . 
 
 THERE are two forts of malt, the general diftinc- 
 tion between which is, that the one is high, and the other 
 low dryed. The former of thefe, when brewed, pro¬ 
 duces a liquor of a deep brown colour ; and the other, 
 which is the low dried, will produce a liquor of a pale 
 colour. The firft is dried in fuch a manner as rather to 
 be fcorched than dried, and is much lefs wholefome than 
 the pale malt. It has likewife been found by experience, 
 that brown malt, although it may be well brewed, will 
 fooner turn (harp than the pale; from whence, among 
 other reafons, the latter is entitled to pre-eminence. 
 
 We have farther proofs of this diftin&ion from various 
 people, but particularly one:—A gentleman, who has 
 made the Art of Brewing his ftudy for many years, and 
 who gives his opinion and knowledge in words to this 
 purpofe: he fays, brown malt makes the bell drink 
 when it is brewed with a coarfe river water, fuch as that 
 of the Thames about London; and that likewife being 
 brewed with fuch water it makes very good ale; but that 
 it will not keep above fix months without turning dale, 
 even though he allows fourteen bulb els to the hogfhead. 
 He adds, that he has tried the high-dried malt to brew 
 beer with for keeping, and hopped it accordingly ; and 
 yet he could never brew it fo as to drink loft and mellow 
 like that brewed with pale malt. There is, he fays, an 
 acid quality in the high-dried malt, which cfccafions thofe 
 
BREWING. 323 
 
 who drink it to be greatly troubled with that diforder call¬ 
 ed the heart-burn. 
 
 What we have here laid with refpedt to malt refers only 
 to that made of barley, for wheat-malt, pea-malt, or 
 high-coloured liquor, will keep fome years, and drink foft 
 and fmooth, but they are very fubjedt to have the flavour 
 of mum. 
 
 Malt high-dried fhould not be tifed in brewing till it 
 has been ground ten days or a fortnight, as it will then 
 yield much ftronger drink than from the fame quantity 
 ground but a fhort time before it is ufed. On the con¬ 
 trary, pale malt, which has not received much of the 
 fire, mull not remain ground above a week before it is 
 ufed. 
 
 With refpedt; to hops, the neweft are by far the belt. 
 They will, indeed, remain very good for two years, but 
 after that they begin to decay, and lofe their flavour, 
 unlefs great quantities are kept together, in which cafe 
 they will keep good much longer than in fmall quantities. 
 In order the better to preferve them, they fnould be kept 
 in a very dry place, contrary to the practice of thole who 
 deal in them, who making felf-interefl: their firft confidera- 
 tion, keep them as damp as they can, to increafe their 
 weight. 
 
 It will happen, in the courfe of time, that hops will 
 grow ftale, decayed, and lofe their natural bitternefs; 
 but this defedt may be removed, by unbagging them, and 
 iprinkling them with aloes and water. 
 
 From what has been faid, it is evident, that every one 
 of the particulars mentioned fhould be judicioufly chofen 
 before you commence brewing, otherwife you will fuf- 
 tain a lofs, which will be aggravated by your labours 
 being in vain. It is likewife to be obferved, that the 
 yeaft or barm, with which you work your liquor, mull 
 be well confldered, for otherwife, even by that alone, a 
 good brewing may be totally deftroyed. Be always par¬ 
 ticularly careful that you are provided with every necef- 
 iary article previous to your commencing the bufinefs 
 of brewing, for if the wort waits for any thing that 
 IX. T t ihould 
 
330 BREWING. 
 
 fhould be immediately at hand, it will be attended with 
 very bad confequences. 
 
 SECT. VII. ' 
 
 The Procefs , or PraBical Pari of Brewing. 
 
 HAVING, in the preceding fedtions, fully explained 
 the neceffary precautions to be taken previous to the 
 commencement of this very important bufinefs, we fhall 
 now proceed to give a concife detail of every thing that 
 is neceffary to be obferved and attended to in the regular 
 procefs of it, from the malt being firft malted, to the 
 liquor being tunned off for the cellar. 
 
 Your utenfils being all properly cleanfed, and fcalded, 
 your malt ground, your water in the copper boiling, and 
 your penftaff well fet, you muft then proceed to mafh, 
 by putting a fufficient quantity of boiling water into your 
 tub, in which it muft ftand until the greater part of the 
 fteam is gone off, or till you can fee your own fhadow in 
 it. It will be then neceffary, that one perfon fhould pour 
 the malt gently in, while another is carefully ftirring it ; 
 for it is equally effential that the fame care fhould be ob¬ 
 ferved when the mafh is thin as when thick. This being 
 effectually done, and having a fufficient referve of malt 
 to cover the mafh, to prevent evaporation, you may 
 cover your tub with lacks, &c. and, leave your malt 
 three hours to deep, which will be a proper time for the 
 extraction of its virtues. 
 
 Before you let the mafh run, be careful to be prepared 
 with a pail to catch the firft ftufh, as that is generally 
 thickifh, and another pail to be applied while you return 
 the firft on the mafh, and fo on for two or three times, 
 or, at leaft, till it runs fine. 
 
 By this time, your copper fhould be boiling, and a 
 convenient tub placed dole to your malh-tub. Let into 
 it through your fpout half the quantity of boiling water 
 you mean to-ufe for drawing off your beft wort; after 
 which you muft inftantly turn the cock to fill up again, 
 which, with a proper attention to the fire, will boil in 
 '• 1 due 
 
BREWING, 33 r 
 
 due time. During fuch time, you mud flop the malh 
 with this hot water out of the convenient tub, in mode¬ 
 rate quantities, every eight or ten minutes till the whole is 
 confumed j and then let off* the remaining quantity, 
 which will be boiling hot, to the finifhing procefs for 
 ftrong beer. 
 
 Having proceeded thus far, fill your copper, and let 
 it boil as quick as poflible for the fecond mafh, whether 
 you intend it either for ale or fmall beer. Being thus far 
 prepared, let off the remaining quantity of water into 
 your tub, as you did for the ftrong beer; but if you 
 would have fmall beer befides, you mud aft accord¬ 
 ingly, by boiling a proper quantity off in due time, and 
 letting it into the tub as before. 
 
 With refpe<5t to the quantity of malt, twenty-four 
 bufhels will make two hogfheads of as good ftrong beer 
 as any perfon would wifh to drink, as alfo two hogfheads 
 of very decent ale. The ftrong beer made from this 
 quantity of malt fhould be kept two or three years before 
 it is tapped, and the ale never lefs than one. If your 
 mafh is only for one hogfhead, it fhould be two hours in 
 running off* if for two hogfheads, two hours and a half 
 and for any greater quantity, three hours. 
 
 Particular attention muft be paid to the time of keep¬ 
 ing your maflies. Strong beer muft be allowed three 
 hours; ale, one hour; and, if you draw fmall beer after, 
 half an hour. By this mode of proceeding, your boilings 
 will regularly take place of each other, which will greatly 
 expedite the bufinefs. Be careful, in thecourfe of mafh- 
 ing, that it is thoroughly ftirred from the bottom, and 
 efpecially round the muck-bafket; for being well fhaken, 
 it will prevent a ftagnation of the whole body of the 
 malh. This laft procefs demands peculiar attention, for 
 without it your beer will certainly be foxed, and, at beft, 
 will have a very difagreeable flavour. 
 
 In the preparation for boiling, the greateft care muft 
 be taken to put the hops in with the firft wort, or it will 
 cher, in a few minutes. As foon as the copper is full 
 enough, make a good fire under it; but be careful in 
 filling it to leave room enough for boiling. Quick boil- 
 
 T t 2 ing 
 
332 BREWING. 
 
 ing is part of the bufinefs that requires very particular 
 attention. Great caution fhould likewife be obferved 
 when the liquor begins to fwell in waves in the copper. 
 If you have no attendant be particularly attentive to its 
 motions; and being provided with an iron rod of a proper 
 length, cooked at one end, and jagged at the other, 
 then with the crook you are enabled to open the furnace, 
 or copper-door, and with the other end pufh in the 
 damper, without ftirring from your ftation ; but on the 
 approach of the firfh fwell you will have fufficient time to 
 proportion your fire, as care Ihould be taken that it is not 
 too fierce. When the boil is properly got under, you 
 may increafe the fire fo that it may boil brifkly. 
 
 In order to afcertain the proper time the liquor fhould 
 boil, you may make ufe of the following expedient; 
 Take a clean copper bowl difh, dip out fome of the 
 liquor, and when you dilcover a working, and the hops 
 finking, then conclude it to be fufficiently boiled. Long 
 and flow boiling is not only pernicious, but it likewife 
 waftes the liquor; for the flower it boils the lower it 
 drops, and fmges to your copper; whereas quick boiling 
 has a contrary effect. Effence of malt is extra&ed by 
 length of boiling, by which you can make it to the 
 thicknefs of honey or treacle. In fome parts of York- 
 fhire they value their liquor for its great ftrength, by its 
 affehting the brain for two or three days after intoxication. 
 This is the efteht of long boiling; for in that county 
 they boil liquor for three hours; and what is ftill worfe, 
 when it finks in the copper, from the wafte in boiling, 
 they every now and then add a little frefh wort, which, 
 without doubt, muft produce ftagnation, and, confe- 
 quently, impurities. 
 
 When your liquor is properly boiled, be fure to tra-? 
 verfe a fmall quantity of it over all the coolers, fo as to 
 get a proper quantity cold immediately to fet to work; 
 but if the airinels of your brewhoufe is not fufficient to 
 expedite a quantity foon, you muft traverfe a fecond 
 quantity over the coolers, and then let it into fhallow 
 tubs. Put thefe into any paflage where there is a tho¬ 
 rough draft of air, but where no rain or other wet can 
 
 get 
 
B R E W I N G. 333 
 
 get to it. Then let off the quantity of two baring-tubs- 
 full from the firft one, the fecond and third coolers, 
 which may be foon got cold, to be ready for a fpeedy 
 working, and then the remaining part that is in your 
 copper may be quite let out into the firft cooler. In the 
 mean time mend the fire, and alfo attend to the hops, to 
 make a clear paffage through the ftrainer. 
 
 Having proceeded thus far, as foon as the liquor is 
 done running, return to your bufinefs of pumping ; but 
 be careful to remember, that, when you have got four or 
 five pails full, you then return all the hops into the copper 
 for the ale. 
 
 By this time the fmall quantity of liquor traverfed 
 over your coolers being fufficiently cooled, you muft 
 proceed to fet your liquor to work, the manner of doing 
 which is as follows; 
 
 Take four quarts of barm, and divide half of it into 
 fmall veffels, fuch as clean bowls, bafons, or mugs, add¬ 
 ing thereto an equal quantity of wort, which fhould be 
 almoft cold. As foon as it foments to the top of the 
 veffel, put it into two pails, and when that works to the 
 top, put one into a baring-tub, and the other into an¬ 
 other. When you have half a baring-tub full together, 
 you may put the like quantity to each of them, and then 
 cover them over, until it comes to a fine white head. 
 This may be perfectly completed in three hours, and 
 then put thofe two quantities into the working guile. 
 You may now add as much wort as you have got ready . 
 for, if the weather is open, you cannot work it too cold. 
 If you brew in cold frofty weather, keep the brewhoufe 
 warm ; but never add hot wort to keep the liquor to a 
 blood heat, that being a bad maxim; for hot wort put 
 to cold, as well as cold to hot, is fo intemperate in 
 its nature, that it ftagnates the proper operation of the 
 barm. 
 
 Be particularly careful that your barm be not from 
 foxed beer, that is, beer heated by ill management in its 
 working; for in that cafe it is likely to carry with it the 
 contagion. If your barm be flat, and you cannot pro¬ 
 cure that which is new* the method of recovering its 
 
 working 
 
334 BREWING. 
 
 working is, by putting to it a pint of warm fweet wort, 
 of your firft letting off, the heat to be about half the de¬ 
 gree of milk-warm : then give the veffel that contains it 
 a (hake, and it will foon gather ftrength, and be fit for 
 ufe. 
 
 With refpect to the quantity of hops neceffary to be 
 ufed, remember, that half a pound of good hops is fuffici- 
 ent for a bufhel of malt. 
 
 Thelaft, and moil: fimple operation in the bufinefs of 
 brewing is that of tunning, the general methods of 
 doing which are, either by having it carried into the cel¬ 
 lar on men’s fhoulders, or conveying it thither by means 
 of leathern pipes commonly ufed for that purpofe. 
 
 Your cafks being perfectly clean, fweet and dry, and 
 placed on the (land ready to receive the liquor, firft (kirn 
 off the top-barm, then proceed to fill your caiks quite 
 full, and immediately bung and peg them clofe. Bore 
 a hole with a tap-borer near the fummit of the ftave, at 
 the fame diftance from the top, as the lower tap-hole is 
 from the bottom, for working through that upper hole, 
 which is a clean and more efteffual method than work¬ 
 ing it over the calk; for, by the above method, being fo 
 elofely confined, it foon fets itfelf into a convulfive mo¬ 
 tion of working, and forces itfelf fine, provided you at¬ 
 tend to the filling of your cafks five or fix times a day. 
 This ought to be carefully attended to, for, by too long 
 an omiffion, it begins to fettle, and being afterwards dii- 
 turbed, it raifes a fharp fermentation, which produces 
 an inceffant working of a fpurious froth that may conti¬ 
 nue for fome weeks, and, after all, give your, beer a dis¬ 
 agreeable tafte. 
 
 One material caution neceffary to be kept in remem¬ 
 brance is this: That however careful you may be in at¬ 
 tending to all the preceding particulars, yet if your cafks 
 are not kept in good order, (till the brewing may be 
 fpoiled. New cafks are apt to give liquor a bad tafte, 
 if they are not well fcalded and feafoned feveral days fuc- 
 ceffively before they are ufed; and old cafks, if they ftand 
 any time out of ufe, are apt to grow mufty. 
 
 Having 
 
BREWING. 335 
 
 Having thus gone through the pradical part of brew¬ 
 ing, and brought the liquor from the maHi-tub to the 
 calk, we fhall now proceed to 
 
 SECT. VIII. 
 
 Containing the proper Management of Malt Liquors , with 
 feme necejfary Obfervations on the Whole . 
 
 IN order to keep ftrong beer in a proper (late of pre- 
 fervation, remember, that when once the veffel is 
 broached, regard muft be paid to the time in which it 
 may be expended; for, if there happens to be a quick 
 draught for it, then it will lafb good to the very bottom ; 
 but if there is likely to be but a flow draught, then do not 
 draw off quite half before you bottle it, otherwile it will 
 grow flat, dead, or four. 
 
 In proportion to the quantity of liquor which is in- 
 clofed in one cafk, fo will it be a fhorter or longer time 
 in ripening. A veffel, which contains two hogfheads of 
 beer, will require twice as much time to perfed itfelf as 
 one of a hogfhead; and is found by experience, that no 
 veffel fliould be ufed for ftrong beer (which is intended 
 to be kept) lefs than a hogfhead, as one of that quantity, 
 if it is fit to draw in a year, will have body enough to 
 fupport it for two, three, or four years, provided it has a 
 fufficient ftrength of malt and hops, which is the cafe 
 with'Dorchefter beer. 
 
 With refped to the management of fmall beer, the 
 firft confideration fliould be to make it tolerably good in 
 quality, which in various inftances will be found truly 
 oeconomical ,• for if it is not good, fervants, for whom it 
 is principally calculated, will be feeble in fummer time, 
 incapable of ftrong work, and fubjed to various diforders. 
 Befides, when the beer is bad, a great deal will be thrown 
 away; whereas, on the contrary, good wholefome drink 
 will be valued, and confequently taken care of. It is 
 advifeable therefore, where there is a good cellaring, to 
 brew a ftock of fmall beer in March or Odober, or 
 in both months, to be kept, if pofhble, in hogfheads. 
 
 4 The 
 
336 BREWING. 
 
 The beer brewed in March fhould nor be tapped till 
 Odtober, nor thac brewed in October till the March 
 following; having this regard to the quantity, that a 
 family, of the fame number of working-people, will drink 
 at leaft a third more in lummer than in winter. 
 
 In order to fine beer, fome people, who brew with 
 high-dried barley-malt, put a bag, containing about 
 three pints of wheat into every hogfhead of liquor, 
 which has had the defired effect, and made the beer 
 drink loft and mellow. Others again, have put about 
 three pints of wheat-malt into a hogfhead, which has 
 produced the like effedt. 
 
 But all malt liquors, however well they may be 
 brewed, may be fpoiled by bad cellaring; be fubjedt to 
 ferment in the calk, and conlequently turn thick and 
 four. When this happens to be the cafe, the weft way of 
 bringing the liquor to itfelfis, to open the bung-hole of 
 rhe calk for two or three days; and if that does not flop 
 the fermentation, then put in about two or three pounds 
 of oyfter-fhells, walhed, dried well in an oven, and then 
 beaten to a fine powder. After you have put it,in, ftir 
 it a little, and it will foon fettle the liquor, make it fine, 
 and take off the fharp tafte. When you find this efFedted 
 draw it oft into another vefiel, and put a fmall bag of 
 wheat, or wheat-malt into it, in proportion to the fize of 
 the vefifel. It fometimes occurs, that fuch fermentations 
 will happen in liquor from a change of weather, if it is in 
 a bad cellar, and will, in a few months, fall fine of itfelf, 
 and grow mellow. 
 
 In fome country places remote from principal towns, 
 it is a pradtice to dip whifks into yeaft, then beat it well, 
 and hangup the whifks, with the yeaft in them, to dry ; 
 and if there be no brewing till two months afterwards, 
 the beating and ftirring one of the whifks in new wort 
 will foon raife a working or fermentation. It is a rule, 
 that all liquor fhould be worked v/ell in the tun, before it 
 is put into the vefiel, otherwife it will not eafily grow 
 fine. Some follow the rule of beating down the yeaft 
 pretty ofter while it is in the tun, and keep it there working 
 for two or three days, obferving to put it into the vefiel. 
 
BREWING, 337 
 
 juft when the yeaft begins to fall. This liquor is in 
 general very fine, whereas, on the contrary, that which 
 is put into the vefiel foon after it is brewed will be feveral 
 months before it comes to a proper ftate of perfection. 
 
 We have before taken notice of the feafon for brewing 
 malt liquors to keep. But it may not be improper fur¬ 
 ther to obferve, that if the cellars are fubject to the . heat 
 of the fun, or warm fumnier air, it will be beft to brew 
 in October, that the liquor may have time to digeft be¬ 
 fore the warm feafon comes on ; and if cellars are fubjedt 
 to damp, and to receive water, the belt time will be to 
 brew in March. Some experienced brewers always 
 choofe to brew with the pale malt in March, and the 
 brown in October; fuppofing, that the pale malt, being 
 made with a lefs degree of fire than the other, wants the 
 hummer fun to ripen it; and fo, on the contrary, the 
 brown, having had a larger fhare of the fire to dry it, is 
 more .capable of defending itfelf againft the cold of the 
 winter feafon. 
 
 All that remains further to be faid relative to the ma¬ 
 nagement of malt liquors we ftiall preferve in. 
 
 SECT. IX 
 
 Containing the proper Method of bottling Malt Liquors. 
 
 AS a neceflfary preparation for executing this bufinefs 
 properly, great attention muft be paid to your bottles, 
 which muft firft be well cleaned and dried; for wet bot¬ 
 tles will make the liquor turn mouldy or mothery, as it is 
 called ; and by wet bottles a great deal of good beer is 
 frequently lpoiled. Though the bottles may be clean 
 and dry, yet, if the corks are not new and found, the 
 liquor will be (till liable to be damaged; for, if the air 
 can get into the bottles, the liquor will grow fiat, and 
 never rife. Many who have flattered themfelves they 
 knew how to be having, by ufing old corks on this occa- 
 fion, have lpoiled as much liquor as flood them in four or 
 five pounds, only for want of laying out three or four 
 fhillings. If bottles are corked as they ftiould be, it, 
 IX. U u will 
 
333 BREWING. 
 
 will be difficult to draw the cork without a fcrew ,* and to 
 irouce the drawing of the cork without breaking, the 
 fcrew ought to go through the cork, and then the air 
 muft neceffarily find apaffage where the fcrew has paffed. 
 if a cork has once been in a bottle, though it has not 
 been drawn with a fcrew, yet that cork will turn mufty 
 as foon as expofed to the air, and will communicate its 
 ill flavour to the bottle in which it is next put, and fpoil 
 the liquor that way. In the choice of corks, take thole 
 that are foft and clear from fpecks. You may abb ob- 
 ferve, in the bottling of liquor, that tl>e top and middle 
 of the hoglhead are the ftrongeft, and will fooner rile in 
 rhe bottles than the bottom. When you begin to bottle 
 a vefifel of any liquor, be fure not to leave it till all is 
 completed, otherwife it will have different taftes. 
 
 If you find a vefiel of liquor begins to grow flat 
 whilfl k is in common draught, bottle it, and into every 
 bottle put a piece of loaf fugar of about the fize of a 
 walnut, which will make it rife and come to itfelf: and, 
 to forward its ripening, you may let loine bottles in hay 
 in a ’warm place; but fir aw will not affifl its ripening. 
 
 If you fhould have the opportunity of brewing a good 
 flock of lmall beer in March and October, fome of it 
 may be bottled at the end of fix months, putting into 
 every bottle a lump of loaf fugar ; which, in the lummer, 
 will make it a very pleafant and refrefhing drink. Or if 
 yeti happen to brew in fummer, and are defirous of 
 brifk fmall beer, as foon as it has done working, bottle 
 It as before directed. 
 
 Where your cellars happen not to be properly calcu¬ 
 lated for the preservation of your beer, you may ufe the 
 following expedient: Sink holes in the ground, put into 
 them large oil jars, and fill up the earth clofe about the 
 Tides. One of the jars will hold about two dozen bot¬ 
 tles, and will keep the liquor in proper order; but care 
 muft be taken that the tops of the jars are kept clofe 
 covered. In Winter time, when the weather is frofty, 
 fhut up all the lights or windows of your cellars, and 
 cover them clofe with horfe-dung, which will keep your 
 beer in a very proper and temperate ftate. 
 
 4 - We 
 
BREWING. 339 
 
 We fhall clofe this feclion and chapter with that in¬ 
 formation, which, if properly attended to, may be found, 
 at times, of the highefl convenience and utility. 
 
 To Preferve Teajl. 
 
 .IF you wifh to preferve a large flock of yeafl, 
 which will keep and be of ufe for feveral months, either 
 for brewing, or to make bread or cakes, you muff follow 
 thefe directions. When you have plenty of yeafl, and 
 are apprehenfive of a future lcarcity, take a quantity of 
 it, flir and work it well with a whifk until it becomes 
 liquid, and thin. Then get a large wooden platter, 
 cooler, or tub, clean and dry, and with a lb ft brufh lay 
 a thin layer of yeafl on the tub, and turn the mouth 
 downwards, that no dull may fall upon it, but fo that 
 the air may get under to dry it. When that coat is very 
 dry, then lay on another, and fo on till you have a fuffi- 
 cient quantity, even two or three inches thick, always 
 taking care that the yeafl is very dry in the tub before 
 you lay any more on, and this will keep good for feveral 
 months. When you have occafion to ufe this yeafl, cut 
 a piece off, and lay it into warm water; then flir it toge¬ 
 ther, and it will be fit for ufe. If it is for brewing, take 
 a large handful of birch tied together, dip it into the 
 yeafl, and hang it up to dry. In this manner you may 
 do as many as you pleafe; but take care no dufl comes 
 to it. When your beer is fit to fet to work, throw in one 
 of thefe, and it will make it work as well as if you had 
 made frelh yeafl. 
 
 C H A P. XXX. 
 
 DIRECTIONS FOR TRUSSING POULTRY, Gk 
 
 T HERE are various reafons why the experienced 
 and prudent ho ufe keeper ifiould be properly ac¬ 
 quainted with this neceffary preparation; to the Art of 
 Cookery. In London every article is generally trufTed by 
 the poulterer of whom it is bought - y but k frequently 
 
 U u z . happen^ 
 
340 T R U S S I N G 
 
 happens that either from inexperience or negligence of 
 the fervants, and want of knowledge in the cook, the 
 article appears on the table with difgrace. Another very 
 fubftantial reafon for the cook having this knowledge is, 
 that the families in which they ferve are frequently in 
 counties where there are no poulterers, and confequently 
 they are under the neceffity of killing and truffing their 
 own poultry. To be prepared, therefore, for the execu¬ 
 tion of this bufinefs, we recommend a proper attention 
 to the following general rules: Be careful that all the 
 Hubs are perfedly taken out; and when you draw any 
 kind of poultry, you muft be very particular to avoid 
 breaking the gall, for fbould that happen, no means can 
 be ufed to take away that bitternefs, which will totally 
 deftroy the natural and proper tafte of the article dreffcd. 
 Great care fhould likewife be taken that you do not 
 break the gut joining to the gizzard; for, fhould this 
 happen, the infide will be grirty, and the whole fpoiled 
 Thefe are to be attended to as general matters. We 
 fhall proceed to particulars, beginning with 
 
 Turkics . 
 
 HAVING properly picked your turkey, break the 
 leg bone clofe to the foot, and draw out the firings from 
 the thigh, for which purpofe you muft hang it on a hook 
 fattened againft a wall. Cut off the neck clofe to the 
 back; but be careful to leave the crop fkin fufficiently 
 long to turn over the back. Then proceed to take out 
 the crop, and loofen the liver and gut at the throat end 
 with your middle finger. Then cut off the vent, and 
 take out the gut. Pull out the gizzard with a crooked, 
 fharp-pointed iron, and the liver will foon follow ; but be 
 careful not to break the gall. Wipe the infide perfectly 
 clean with a wet cloth; having done which cut the 
 breaft-bone through on each fide dole to the back, and 
 draw the legs clofe to the crops. Then put a cloth on 
 the breaft, and beat the high bone down with a rolling- 
 pin till it lies fiat. If the turkey is to be rruffed for 
 boiling, cut the legs off; then put your middle finger 
 into the infide, raife the fkin of the legs, and put them 
 tinder the apron of the turkey, Put a Ikewer into the 
 
 joint 
 
POULTRY. 341 
 
 pint of the wing and the middle joint of the leg, and run 
 it through the body and the other leg and wing. The 
 liver and gizzard muft be put in the pinions; but be 
 careful firft to open the gizzard and take out the filth, 
 and the gall of the liver. Then turn the fmall end of 
 the pinion on the back, and tie a packthread over the 
 ends of the legs to keep them in their places. If the tur¬ 
 key is to be roafted, leave the legs on, put a fkewer in 
 the joint of the wing, tuck the legs clofe up, and put the 
 fkewer through the middle of the legs and body. On 
 the other fide, put another fkewer in at the fmall part of 
 the leg. Put it clofe on the outfide of the fidefman, and 
 put the fkewer through, and the fame on the other fide. 
 Put the liver and gizzard between the pinions, and turn 
 the point of the pinion on the back. Then put, clofe 
 above the pinions, another fkewer through the body of 
 the turkey.* 
 
 If turkey-poults they muft be trufied as follows: take 
 the neck from the head and body, but do not remove 
 the neck fkin. They are drawn in the fame manner as a 
 turkey. Put a fkewer through the joint of the pinion, 
 tuck the legs clofe up, run the fkewer through the mid¬ 
 die of the leg, through the body, and fo on the other 
 fide. Cut off the under part of the bill, twift the lkin 
 of the neck round, and put the head on the point of the 
 fkewer, with the bill-end forwards. Another fkewer 
 muft be put in the fidefman, and the legs placed be¬ 
 tween the fidefman and apron on each fide. Pafs the 
 fkewer through all, and cut off the toe-nails. It is very 
 common to lard them on the breaft. The liver and 
 gizzard may or may not be ufed, as you like. 
 
 Fowls. 
 
 WHEN you have properly picked your fowls, cut off 
 the neck clofe to the back. Then take out the crop, and 
 with your middle finger loofen the liver and other mat¬ 
 ters. ' Cut off the vent, draw it clean, and beat the breaft- 
 bone flat with a rolling-pin. If your fowl is to be boiled, 
 cut off the nails of the feet, and tuck them down clofe 
 to the kgs. Put your finger into the infide, and raife 
 
 the 
 
342 ^TRUSSING 
 
 the fkin of the legs; then cut a hole in the top of the 
 ikin, and put the legs under. Put a fkewer in the firft 
 joint of the pinion, bring the middle of the leg clofe to 
 it, put the fkewer through the middle of the leg, and 
 through the body; and then do the lame on the other 
 fide. Having opened the gizzard, take out the filth, 
 and the gall out of the liver. Put the gizzard and the 
 liver in the pinion, turn the points on the back, and tie 
 a ftring over the tops of the legs to keep them in their 
 proper place. If your fowl is tp be roafted, put a 
 fkewer in the firft joint of the pinion, and bring the mid¬ 
 dle of the leg clofe to it. Put the fkewer through the 
 middle of the leg, and through the body, and do the 
 fame on the other fide. Put another fkewer in the lmall 
 of the kg, and through the fidefman; do the fame on 
 the other fide, and then put another through the fkin 
 of the feet. You mull not forget to cut off the nails of 
 the feet. 
 
 Chickens. 
 
 WITH refpedl to picking and drawing, they mud 
 be done in the fame manner as fowls. If they are to be 
 boiled, cut off the nails, give the finews a nich on each 
 fide of the joint, put the feet in at the vent, and then 
 peel the rump. Draw the fkin tight over the legs, put a 
 fkewer in the firft joint of the pinion, and bring the 
 middle of the leg clofe. Put the fkewer through the 
 middle of the legs, and through the body, and do the 
 fame on the other fide. Clean die gizzard, and take out 
 the gall in the liver; put them into the pinions, and turn 
 the points on the back. If your chickens are to be 
 roafted, cur off the feet, put a fkewer in the firft joint of 
 the pinions, 'and bring the middle of the leg dole. Run 
 the fkewer through the middle of the leg, and through 
 the body, and do the fame on the other tide. Put an¬ 
 other fkewer into the fidefman, put the legs between the 
 apron and the fidefman, and run the. fkewer through. 
 Having cleaned the liver and gizzard, put them in the 
 pinions, turn the points on the back, and pull the breaft 
 fkin over the neck. 
 
POULTRY, &c. 343 
 
 Gtefc. 
 
 HAVING picked and flubbed your goofe clean, cut 
 the feet off at the joint, and the pinion off the firft joint. 
 Then cut off the neck almoft dole to the back j but leave 
 j the fkin of the neck long enough to turn over the back. 
 Pull out the throat, and tie a knot at the end. With 
 your middle finger Joofen the liver and other matters at 
 the bread end, and cut it open between the vent and the 
 rump. Having done this, draw out all the entrails, ex¬ 
 cepting the foal. Wipe it out clean with a wet cloth, 
 and beat the bread-bone fiat with a rolling-pin. Put a 
 fkewer into the wing, and draw the legs dole up. Put 
 the fkewer through the middle of the leg, and through 
 the body, and the fame on the other fide. Put another 
 fkewer in the final! of the leg, tuck it dole down to 
 the fidefman, run it through, and do the fame on the 
 other fide. Cut off the end of the vent, and make a 
 hole large enough for the pafiage of the rump, as by that 
 means it will much better keep in the feafon. 
 
 Ducks are trolled in the fame manner, except that the 
 feet muft be left on, and turned clofe to the legs. 
 
 Pigeons . 
 
 WHEN you have picked them, and cut off the neck 
 clofe to the back, then take out the crop, cut off the vent, 
 and draw out the guts and gizzard, but leave the liver, 
 for a pigion has no gall. If they are to be roafted, cut 
 off the toes, cut a flit in one of the legs, and put the other 
 through it. Draw the leg tight to the pini-on, put a 
 fkewer through the pinions, legs and body, and with the 
 handle of the knife break the break fiat. Clean the Hz- 
 zard, put it in one of the pinions, and turn the points cn 
 the back. If you intend to make a pie of them, you 
 muft cut the feet off at the joint, turn the legs, and ftick 
 them in the fides dole to the pinions. If they are to be 
 ftewed, or boiled, they muft be done in the fame man¬ 
 ner. 
 
 Wild Fowl 
 
 HAVING picked them clean, cut off the neck clofe 
 to the back, and with vour middle finger locfen the fiver 
 
 and 
 
344 T R U S S I N G 
 
 and guts next the bread:. Cut off the pinions at the 
 firft joint, then cut a flit between the vent and the rump, 
 and draw them clean. Clean them properly with the 
 long feathers on the wing, cut off the nails, and turn the 
 feet clofe to the legs. Put a fkewer in the pinion, pull 
 the legs clofe to the bread:, and run the fkewer through 
 the legs, body, and the other pinion. Firft cut off the 
 vent, and then put the rump through it. The direc¬ 
 tions here given are to be followed in truffing every kind 
 of wild fowl. 
 
 Pheafants and Partridges. 
 
 HAVING picked them very clean, cut a flit at the 
 back of the neck, take out the crop, and loofen the liver 
 and gut next the bread: with your fore-finger, then cut off 
 the vent and draw them. Cut off the pinion at the fird: 
 joint, and wipe out the infide with the pinion you have 
 cut off. Beat the breaft-bone flat with a rolling-pin, put 
 a fkewer in the pinion, and bring the middle of the legs 
 clofe. Then run the fkewer through the legs, body, 
 and the other pinion, twift the head, and put it on the 
 end of the fkewer, with the bill fronting the breaft. Put 
 another fkewer into the fidefman, and put the legs clofe 
 on each fide the apron, and then run the fkewer through 
 all. If you would wifli to make the pheafant (if it is a 
 cock) have a pleafing appearance on the table, leave the 
 beautiful feathers on the head, and cover them gently 
 with paper to prevent their being injured by the heat of 
 the Are. You may like wife fave the long feathers in the 
 tail to flick in the rump when roafted. If they are for 
 boiling, put the legs in the fame manner as in truffing 
 a fowl. $ 
 
 All kinds of moor game mud: be truffed in the fame 
 
 manner. 
 
 Woodcocks and Snipes. 
 
 AS thefe birds- are remarkably tender to pick, efpeci- 
 ally if they fhould not happen to be quite frefh, the 
 greateft care mufl be taken how you handle them ; for 
 even the heat of the hand will fometimes take off' the 
 ikin, which will totally deftroy the beautiful appearance 
 
POULTRY, &c. S45 
 
 of the bird. Having picked them clean, cut the pinions 
 of the fir ft joint, and with the handle of a knife beat the 
 breaft-bone flat. Turn the legs clofe to the thighs, 
 and tie them together at the joints.. Put the thighs clofe 
 to the pinions, put a fkewer into the pinions, and run 
 it through the thighs, body, and the other pinion. 
 Skin the head, turn it, take out the eyes, and put the 
 head on the point of the fkewer, with the bill clofe to 
 the breaft. Remember, that thefe birds muft never be 
 drawn. 
 
 Larks . 
 
 WHEN you have picked them properly, cut off 
 their heads, and the pinions of the firft joint. Beat the 
 breaft-bone flar, then turn the feet clofe to the legs, and 
 put one into the other. Draw out the gizzard, and run 
 a fkewer through the middle of the bodies. Tie the 
 fkewer fall to the fpit when you put them down to roaft. 
 
 Wheat-ears, and other fmall birds, muft be done in the 
 fame manner. 
 
 Hares. 
 
 HAVING cut off the four legs at the firft joint, raife 
 the fkin of the back, and draw it over the hind le»s. 
 Leave the tail whole, draw the fkin over the back, aud 
 flip out the fore legs. Cut the fkin off the neck and 
 head; but take care to leave the ears on, and mind to 
 fkin them. Take out the liver, lights, &c. and be fure 
 to draw the gut out of the vent. - Cut the finews that 
 lie under the hind legs, bring them up to the fore legs, 
 put a fkewer through the hind leg, then through The 
 fore leg under the joint, run it through the body, and do 
 the fame on the other fide. Put another fkewer through 
 the thick part of the hind legs and body, put the head 
 between the fhoulders, and run a fkewer through to keep 
 it in its place. Put a fkewer in each ear to make them 
 ftand erecft, and tie a firing round the middle of the 
 body over the legs to keep them in their place. A young 
 faun muft be truffed juft in the fame manner, except that 
 the ears muft be cut off. 
 
 Rabbits muft be cafed much in the fame manner as 
 hares, only obferving to cut off the ears clofe to the 
 
 X x ^ head. 
 
346 THE COMPLETE 
 
 head. Cut open the vent, and Hit the legs about an inch 
 upon each fide the rump. Make the hind legs lie fiat, 
 and bring the ends to the fore-legs. Ptft a fkewer into 
 the hind-leg, then into the fore-leg, and through the 
 body. Bring the head round, and put it on the fkewer.' 
 If you want to roaft two together, trufs them at full 
 length with fix lkewers run through them both, fo that 
 they may be properly faftened on the fpit. 
 
 . i nr.. I H lll lrtli r 8B!Wa«!M~—— —- 
 
 CHAP. XXXI. 
 
 THE COMPLETE MARKET-WOMAN. 
 
 SECT. I. 
 
 Dir (Elions for thz proper Choice of various Kinds of 
 
 Butcher's Meat. 
 
 \ S a necefiary prelude to thefe ufeful diredlions, 
 fjL (more efpecially to that part which form the pre- 
 fent lection), it may not be improper to acquaint the in¬ 
 experienced cook (for whofe ule the whole of this work 
 is particularly calculated), with a knowledge of the dif¬ 
 ferent parts with which butcher’s meat is divided, as the 
 ox, lheep, calf, lamb, &c. 
 
 In the ox the fore-quarter confifts of the haunch, which 
 includes the clod, marrow-bone, fhin, and the fticking- 
 piece, which is the neck-end. The next is the leg of 
 mutton-piece, which has part of the blade-bone; then the 
 chuck, the brilket, the fore-ribs, and middle-rib, which 
 is called the chuck-rib. The hind-quarter contains the 
 firloin and rump, the thin and thick flank, the veiney- 
 piece, and the ifch, each, or ach-bone, buttock and leg. 
 Thefe are the principal parts of the carcafe, befides which 
 are the head, tongue, and palate. The entrails are, the 
 fweet-breads, kidnies, fkirts and tripe, of the latter of 
 which there are three forts, the double, the roll, and the 
 reed-tripe. 
 
 In 
 
MARKET-WOMAN. S47 
 
 In a Jhetp> the fore-quarter contains the neck, breaft 
 and fhoulder} and the hind-quarter, the leg and loin. 
 The two loins together are called a chine, or laddie of 
 mutton, which is efteemed as a fine difh when the meat 
 is fmall and fat. Befides thefe, are the head and pluck, 
 which includes the liver, lights, heart, fweet-breads and 
 melt. 
 
 In a calf , the fore-quarter confifts of the fhoulder, 
 neck, and breaft} and the hind-quarter the leg, which 
 contains the knuckle, the fillet, and the loin. The head 
 and inwards are called the pluck, and confift of the heart, 
 liver, lights, nut and melt, and what is called the Ikirts ; 
 the throat fweetbread, and the wind-pipe fweetbread.— 
 Beef, mutton, and veal, are in feafon at all times of the 
 year. 
 
 The fore-quarter of a houfe-lamb confifts of a fhoul¬ 
 der, neck, and breaft, together. The hind-quarter is 
 the leg and loin. The head and pluck confifts of the 
 liver, lights, heart, nut and melt, as alfo the fry, which is 
 formed of the fweet-breads, lamb-ftones, and Ikirts, with 
 fome of the liver.—Lamb may be had at all times in the 
 year; but is particularly in high feafon at Chriftmas, 
 when it is confidered as one of the greateft prefents that 
 can be made from any perfon in London to another re¬ 
 ading in the country, 
 
 Graf? lamb comes in about April or May, according 
 to the nature of the weather at that feafon of the 
 year, that in general holds good till the middle of 
 Auguft. 
 
 In a hog , the fore-quarter is the fore-loin and fpring ; 
 and, if it is a large hog, you may cut off a fpare-rib. 
 The hind-quarter is only the leg and loin. The in¬ 
 wards from what is called the hafiet, which confifts of 
 the liver, crow, kidney, and Ikirts. Befides thefe there 
 are the chitterlins, or guts, the fmaller part of which are 
 cleanfed for faufages and black-puddings. 
 
 What is called a bacon-hog is cut differently, on account 
 of making hams, bacon, and pickled pork. Here you 
 have fine fpare-ribs, chines, and grilkins, and fat for 
 hog’s-lard. The liver and crow are much admired, 
 
 X x 2 fried 
 
348 THE COMPLETE 
 
 fried with bacon; and the feet and ears are equally good 
 
 foufed. 
 
 The proper feafon for pork commences about Bartho- 
 lomew-tide, and lafts all the winter. When the liimmer 
 begins it grows flabby, and is therefore not ufed, except 
 by thofe who are particularly attached to that kind of ani¬ 
 mal provifion. 
 
 Having mentioned thefe previous matters relative to 
 the fubjedt in queftion, we fhall now proceed to defcribe 
 the proper fignatures by which the market-woman may 
 make a judicious choice of fuch articles as fhe may have 
 occaiion to provide. In doing this we (ball begin with 
 
 Beef. 
 
 IN making choice of ox-beef, obferve, that if the meat 
 is young, it will have a fine fmooth open grain, a pleafing 
 carnation red colour, and be very tender. The fat muff 
 look rather white than yellow; for when it is quite yel¬ 
 low, the meat is feldom good. The fuet likewife muft 
 be perfectly white. To know the difference between 
 ox, cow, and bull-beef, attend to thefe particulars: the 
 grain of cow-beef is clofer, and the fat whiter, than that 
 of ox-beef, but the lean is not of fo bright a red. The 
 grain of bull-beef is ftill clofer, the fat hard and fkinny, 
 the lean of a deep red, and gives a very flrong and rank 
 icent. 
 
 , Mutton. 
 
 IN order to know whether mutton is young or not, 
 fqueeze the flefh with your finger and thumb, and if it is 
 young it will feel tender; but if old, hard, continue 
 wrinkled, and the fat will beffibrous, and clammy. The 
 flefn of ewe-mutton is paler than that of the weather, and 
 the grain clofer. The grain of ram mutton is likewife 
 clolcr, the flefh is of a deep red, and the fat fpongy. 
 
 Lamb 
 
 IF the eyes appear bright and full in the head, it is 
 good; but if they are funk and wrinkled it is ftale. An¬ 
 other way of knowing this difference is, that if the rein 
 in the neck of the fore-quarter appears of a fine blue co¬ 
 lour 
 
MARKET-WOMAN. 349 
 
 iour it is frefh ; but, if green or yellow, there is no doubt 
 but it is ftale. You may like wife be lure it is not good, 
 if you find a faint difagreeable fcent from the kidney in 
 the hind-quarter, or if the knuckle feels limber on 
 touching it with your fingers. 
 
 Veal. 
 
 THOUGH the fiefh of a cow-calf is much whiter 
 than that of a bull, yet the fiefh is not fo firm; but the 
 fillet of the former is generally preferred on account of 
 the udder. If the head is frefh, the eyes will be plump; 
 but if ftale, they will be funk and wrinkled. If the vein 
 in the fhoulder is not of a bright red, the meat is not 
 frefh; and if there are any green or yellow fpots in it, be 
 allured it is very bad. A good neck and breaft will be 
 white and dry; but if they are clammy, and look green 
 or yellow at the upper end, they are ftale. The kidney 
 is the fooneft apt to taint in the loin, and if it it is ftale, it 
 will be foft and flimy. If a leg is firm and white, it is 
 good* but if limber, and the fiefh is flabby, you may be 
 allured it is bad. 
 
 Pork. 
 
 IF pork is young, the lean on being pinched with the 
 finger and thumb, will break, and the Ikin dent. If the 
 rind is thick, rough, and cannot be eafily imprefled with 
 the finger, it is old. If the fiefh is cool and fmooth it is 
 frefh ; but if clammy, it is tainted ; and, in this cafe, the 
 knuckle is always the worft. There is fome pork which 
 is called the meafly, and is very unwholefome to eat; but 
 this may be eafily known by the fat being full of little 
 kernels, which is not the cafe wth good pork. 
 
 Hams. 
 
 IN order to know whether a ham is fweet, ftick a 
 knife under the bone, and, on fmelling at the knife, if 
 the ham is good, it will have a pleafant flavour. If it 
 is daubed and fmeared, and has a difagreeable fcent, it 
 is not good. Thofe, in general, turn out the belt hams, 
 that are fhort in the hock. 
 
 Bacon. 
 
350 THE COMPLETE 
 
 Bacon. 
 
 IF bacon is good the fat will feel firm, and have a red 
 tinge j and the lean will be of a good colour, and flick 
 clofe to the bone; but if you obferve any yellow flreaks 
 in the lean, it either is, or will be rufty very foon. If 
 bacon is young, the rind will be thin, but if old it will 
 be thick. 
 
 Brawn. 
 
 IF brawn is young, the rind will feel moderately ten¬ 
 der; but if old, it will be thick and-hard. The rind and 
 fat of barrow and fow are very tender. 
 
 YOUR choice of venifon mufl be, in a great mea- 
 fure, direded by the fat. If the fat is thick, bright and 
 clear, the clefts fmooth and clofe, it is young; but if the 
 cleft is very wide and tough, it fhews it to be old. 
 Venifon will firft: change at the haunches and fhoulders ; 
 in order to know which run a knife into thofe parts, and 
 you will be able to judge of its newnefs or flalenefs by its 
 fweet or rank feent. If it looks greenifh, or is inclined 
 to have a very black appearance, depend upon it is 
 tainted. 
 
 S E C T. II. 
 
 Du •eUions for the proper Choice of different Kinds of 
 
 Poultry , &c. 
 
 Turkies. 
 
 THE moft certain fignature of knowing if a cock 
 turkey be young is, the (hortnefs of the fpur, and the 
 Irnoothnefs and blacknefs of the legs. The eyes like- 
 wile will be full and bright, and the feet limber and 
 moift; but you mufl carefully obferve, that the lpurs 
 are not cut or feraped to deceive you, which is an artifice 
 too frequently pradifed by the poulterer. If a turkey is 
 ftale, the feet will be dry, and the eyes funk. The fame 
 rule will determine, whether a hen turkey is frefh or ftale, 
 young or old; with this difference, that if flic is old, her 
 
MARKET-WOMAN. 351 
 
 legs will be rough and red; if with egg, the vent will be 
 foft and open j but if lhe has no eggs, the vent will be 
 hard. 
 
 Cocks and Hens. 
 
 IF a cock is young, the fpurs will be fhortj but the 
 fame precaution is neceffary here, in that point, as juft 
 obferved in the choice of turkies. If they are ft ale", the 
 vents will be open j but if frefh, clofe and hard. Hens 
 are always belt when full of eggs, and juft before they 
 begin to lay. The combs and legs of an old hen are 
 rough; but, in a young one they are fmooth. The 
 comb of a good capon is very pale, its breafts remarkably 
 fat, and it has a thick belly with a large rump. 
 
 Geefe. 
 
 WHEN a goofe is young, the bill and feet will be 
 yellow, with but a few hairs upon them; but if old, both 
 will look red. If it is frefh the feet will be limber; but 
 if old, they will be ftiff and dry. Green geefe are in 
 feafon from May or June, till they are three months old. 
 A ftubble goofe will be good till it is five or fix months 
 old, and ihould be picked dry j but green geefe fhould 
 be fcalded. 
 
 Ducks. 
 
 THE legs of a frefh-killed duck are limber] and ^ 
 it is fat, the belly will be hard and thick. . The feet of a 
 dale duck are dry and ftiff. The feet of a tame duck 
 •are inclining to a dufky yellow, and are thick. The 
 feet of a wild duck are fmaller than a tame one, and are 
 of a reddifh colour. Ducks muft be picked dry j but 
 ducklings fhould be fcalded. 
 
 Pigeons. 
 
 THESE birds, if new, are full and fat at the vent, 
 and limber-footed ; but if the toes are harfh, the vent 
 loofe, open and green, they are ftale. If they are old, 
 their legs will be large and red. The tame pigeon is 
 preferable to the wild, and fhould be large in the body, 
 fat and tender $ but the wild pigeon is not fo fat. Wood- 
 
 3 pigeons 
 
352 * THE COMPLETE 
 
 pigeons are much larger than either wild or tame, but, in 
 all other refpedls like them. 
 
 The fame rules will hold good in the choice of the 
 plover, field-fare, lark, and other fmall birds. 
 
 Pheafants. 
 
 AS thefe-birds, as well as partridges and woodcocks, 
 cannot be purchafed, fo there is no opportunity of mak¬ 
 ing a choice ; but notwithstanding this, as a great many 
 of them are lent as prefents to numbers of families 
 in London, it may not be improper for the fatisfac- 
 tion of the cook, to point out the difference between 
 thofe who are frefh and young, and thofe that are other- 
 wife. * . 
 
 The cock-pheafant has fpurs, which the hen has not; 
 and the hen is mod valued when with egg. The fpurs 
 of a young cock-pheafant are fhort and blunt, or round ; 
 but if he is old, they are long and lharp. If the vent of 
 the hen isopen and green, fhe is dale, and when rubbed 
 hard with the finger, the lkin will peel. If fhe is with 
 egg, the vent will be foft. 
 
 Partridges . 
 
 IF thefe birds are young, the legs will be yellowifh, 
 and the bill of a dark colour. Jf they are frefh, the vent 
 will be firm ; but if dale, it will look greenifh, and the 
 lkin will peel when rubbed with the finger. If they are 
 old, the bill will be white, and the legs blue. 
 
 Woodcocks. 
 
 THESE are birds of paffage, and are found in Eng¬ 
 land only in the winter. They are bed about a fort¬ 
 night or three weeks after their fird appearance, when 
 they have reded from their long padage over the ocean. 
 If they are fat, they will feel firm and thick, which is a 
 proof of their good condition. The vent will alfo be 
 thick and hard, and the vein of fat will run by the fide of 
 the bread; but a lean one will feel thin in the vent. If 
 newly killed, its feet will be limber, and the head and 
 throat clean ; but if dak, the contrary. 
 
 Hares 
 
353 
 
 MARKET WOMAN. 
 
 Hares. 
 
 % 
 
 IF a hare is old, the claws will be blunt and rugged, 
 the ears dry and tough, and the cleft wide and large; 
 but, on the contrary, if the claws are fmooth and fliarp, 
 the ears tear eafily, and the cleft in the lip is not much 
 fpread, it is young.- The body will be ftiff, and the flefli 
 pale, if newly killed ; but, if the flefh is turning black, 
 and the body limber, it is Hale j though hares are not al¬ 
 ways confidered as the worfe for being kept till they have 
 a ftrongifh fcent. The principal diftinction between a 
 hare and a leveret is, that the leveret Ihould have a knob, 
 or fmall bone, near the foot, on its fore-leg, which a hare 
 has not. The longer a hare is kept before drefied, the 
 more tender will be the flefli. 
 
 Rabbits. 
 
 IF a rabbit is old, the claws will be very rough and 
 long, and there will be grey hairs intermixed with the 
 wool j but the wool and,claws will be fmooth, when 
 young. If it is dale, it will be limber, and the flefli will 
 look bluifh, with a kind of flime upon it; but if frefh, 
 it will be ftiff, and the flefli white and dry. 
 
 SECT. III. 
 
 Dir eft ions for the proper Choice of different Kinds of 
 
 Fijby fcfc. 
 
 IN order to know whether fifh is frefli or ftale, the 
 general rule to be noticed in all kinds is, by obferving the 
 colour of the gills, which fhould be of a lively red ; 
 whether they are hard, or eafily to be opened ; the pro¬ 
 jection or intention of their eyes, the ftiffnefs or limber- 
 nefs of their fins, and by the lcent from their gills. 
 
 Turbot. 
 
 IF a turbot is good, it will be thick and plump, and 
 the belly of a yellowifli white ; but if they appear thin 
 and bluifh, they are not good. Turbot are in feajbn the 
 greateft part of the fummer. 
 
 IX, y y 
 
 Cod 
 
354 
 
 THE COMPLETE 
 
 Cod. 
 
 THIS fifh, if perfectly fine and frefh, fhould be very 
 thick at the neck, the flefh white and firm, and of a 
 bright clear colour, and the gills red. If they appeal- 
 flabby, they are ftale, and will not have their proper 
 flavour. The proper feafon for them is, from about 
 Chriftmas to Lady-Dav. « 
 
 Soles., 
 
 IF foies are good, they will be thick and firm, and 
 the belly of a fine cream-colour; but if they are flabby, 
 or incline to a biueifh? white, they are not good. The 
 proper feafon for foies is about Midfummer. 
 
 Skate. 
 
 IF this fifh is perfe&ly good and fweet, the flefh will 
 look exceeding white, and be thick and firm. One in¬ 
 convenience is particularly attendant on this fifh, and that 
 is, if too frefh, it will eat very tough ; and if ftale, they 
 produce fo ftrong a fcent as to be very difagreeable ; fo 
 that fome judgement is necefiary to drefs them in a proper 
 time. 
 
 Herrings . 
 
 IF herrings are frefh, the gills will be of a fine red, 
 and the whole fifh {tiff and very bright; but if the gills 
 are of a faint colour, the fifh limber and wrinkled, they 
 are bad. The goodnefs of pickled herrings is known by 
 their being fat, flefhy and white. Red Herrings, if 
 good, will be large, firm, and dry. They fhould be full 
 of roe or melt, and the outfides of a fine yellow. Thofe 
 that have the {kin or fcales wrinkled on the back will 
 turn out preferable to thofe whofe fcales are very broad, 
 the diflinction between which is fufficiently obvious. 
 
 Salmon. 
 
 THE flefh of falmon, when new, is of a fine red, 
 and particularly fo at the gills; the fcales fhould be 
 bright, and the fifh very ftifF. The fpring is the proper 
 feafon for this fifh, which, in its nature, is both lufcious 
 
 and pleafant flavoured. 
 
 Trout. 
 
MARKET-WOMAN. 355 
 
 Trout. - 
 
 THIS is a mod beautiful and excellent frefh-water 
 fifh; but the bed are thole that are red and. yellow. The 
 females are mod in edeem, and are known by having a 
 fmaller head, and deeper body than the male. They are 
 in high feafon the latter end of June ; and their frefh- 
 nefs may be known by the rules already given for that 
 purpole, in the introduction to this feCtion. 
 
 Tench. 
 
 IN order to eat this fifh in perfection, they fhould be 
 drefled alive; but if they are dead examine the gills, 
 which fhould be red and hard to open, the eyes bright, 
 and the body firm and diff, if frefh. Thefe are in gene¬ 
 ral covered with a kind of (limy matter, which, if clear 
 and bright, is a proof of their being good. This filmy 
 matter may be eafily removed, by rubbing them with a 
 little fait. 
 
 Smelts . 
 
 WHEN thefe are frefh, they are of a fine diver hue, 
 very firm, and have a particular drong fcent, greatly re- 
 fembling that of a cucumber when pared. 
 
 Flounders. 
 
 THIS is both a fait and frefh-water fifh, and fhould 
 be drefled as foon as pofdble after being dead. When 
 frefh and fine, they are diff, their eyes bright and full, 
 .and their bodies thick. t 
 
 r_ ^ 
 
 Sturgeon. 'g 
 
 THE flefh of a good durgeon is very white, with a 
 few blue veins, the grain even, the fkin tender, good Co¬ 
 loured, and foft. All the veins and grrdles fhould be 
 blue; for when thefe are brown and yellow, the fkin harfh, 
 tough, and dry, the bfh is bad. It has a pleafant fmell 
 when good, but a very difagreeable one when bad. It 
 fhould alfo cut firm without crumbling. The females 
 are as full of roe as our carp, which is taken out and 
 fpread upon a table, beat flat, and fprfnkled with fait; 
 it is then dried in the air and fun, and afterwards in 
 ©vens. It fhould be of a reddifh brown colour, and 
 
 Y y 2 very 
 
35 6 THE COMPLETE 
 
 very dry. This is called caviare, and is eaten with oil 
 and vinegar. 
 
 Eds. 
 
 THE bed, and mod greatly efteemed, is the Thames 
 filver eel, and the word are thofe brought by the Dutch, 
 and fold at Billingfgate-market. They fhould be dreffed 
 alive, and, except the time of the very hot months in 
 the fummer, are in feafon all the year. 
 
 Lobjlers. 
 
 IF a lobder is frefh, the tail will be diff, and pull up 
 with a fpring; but if it is dale, the tail will be flabby, 
 and have no fpring in it. This rule, however, concerns 
 lobders that are boiled ; but it is much better to buy 
 them alive, and boil them yourfelf, taking care that they 
 jare not fpent by too long keeping. If they have not been 
 long taken, the claws will have a quick and drong mo¬ 
 tion upon fqueezing the eyes, and the heavied are edeem- 
 ed the bed. The cock-lobder is known by the narrow- 
 back part of his tail. The two uppermod fins within 
 his tail, are diff and hard; but thofe of the hen are foft, 
 and the tail broader. The male, though generally fmal- 
 fcr than the female, has the higher flavour, the flefn is 
 firmer, and the body of a redder colour, when boiled. 
 
 Oyjltrs. 
 
 AMONG the various kinds of this fifh, thofe called 
 the native Milton are exceeding fine, and by far the fatted 
 and whited. But thofe mod edeemed are, the Colchef- 
 ter* Pyfieet, and Milford oyders. When they are alive, 
 and in full vigour, they will clofe fad upon the knife on 
 opening, and let go as foon as they are wounded in the 
 body. 
 
 Prawns and Shrimps. 
 
 THESE fifh give an excellent lcent when in perfec¬ 
 tion, which may be known by their firmnefs, and the tails 
 turning diifly inwards. When fredi, their colour is very 
 bright; but when dale, their tails grow limber, the 
 brightnefs of their colour goes off, and they become pale 
 and clammy. 
 
 Putter, 
 
357 
 
 MARKET-WOMAN. 
 
 Butter. 
 
 THE greateft care is neceflary in buying this article 
 to avoid being deceived. You muft not truft to the 
 tafte the fellers give you, as they will frequently give you 
 a tafte of one lump, and fell you another. On choofing 
 fait butter, truft rather to your fmell than tafte, by put¬ 
 ting a knife into it, and applying it to your nofe. If the 
 butter is in a cafk, have it unhooped, and thruft in your 
 knife, between the ftaves, into the middle of it; for by 
 the artful mode of package, and the ingenuity of thofe 
 who fend it from the country, the butter on the top of 
 the cafk is often much better than the middle. 
 
 Cheefe. 
 
 BEFORE you purchafe this article, take particular 
 notice of the coat, or rind. If the cheefe is old, with a 
 rough and ragged coat, or dry at top, you may expedt 
 to find little worms or mites in it. If it is moift, 
 fpungy, or full of holes, there will be reafon to fufpedt 
 it is magotty. Whenever you perceive any perifhed 
 places on the outfide, be fure to probe the bottom of 
 them; for, though the hole in the coat may be but fmall, 
 the perilhed part within may be confiderable. 
 
 Eggs. 
 
 TO judge properly of an egg, put the greater end to 
 your tongue, and if it feels warm, it is new; but if cold, 
 it s ft ale; and according to the degree of heat or cold 
 there is in the egg, you will judge of its ftalenefs^or new- 
 nefs. Another method is this: Hold it up againft the 
 fun or a candle, and if the yolk appears round, and the 
 white clear and fair, it is a mark of its goodnefs; but if 
 the yolk is broken, and the white cloudy or muddy, the 
 egg is a bad one. Some people, in order to try the good- 
 nefs of an egg, put it into a pan of cold water i in this 
 cafe, the frefher the egg is, the looner it will fink to the 
 bottom ; but if it is addled or rotten, it will fwim on the 
 furface of the water. 
 
 The beft method of preferving eggs, is to keep them 
 in meal or bran j though lome place them in wood-afties, 
 
 3 with 
 
358 CARVING. 
 
 with their {mail ends downwards. When^necefiity obliges 
 you to keep them for any length of time, the bed way 
 will be to bury them in fait, which will preferve them in 
 almod any climates j but the fooner an egg is ufed the 
 better. 
 
 CHAP. XXXI. 
 
 THE ART OF CARVING. 
 
 N OTHING can be more difagreeable to a perfon 
 who is placed at the head of a table, and whofe 
 bufmefs it is to pay the neceffary honours to guefts in¬ 
 vited, than to be defedlive in not being properly able to 
 carve the different articles provided. From the want of 
 knowledge in this particular, it mud naturally become 
 no lefs painful to the perfon who undertakes the talk, 
 than uncomfortable to thofe who are waiting for the 
 compliment of being ferved. Abilities and dexterity in 
 this art are driking qualifications in the eyes of every 
 company, and are material indruments of forming the 
 neceffary and polite graces of the table. 
 
 The indrudlions here laid down by words, are mate¬ 
 rially enlivened by the reprefentations of the refpective 
 articles defcribed, fo that the young and inexperienced 
 may, by proper attention to the defcription, and refe¬ 
 rence to the plates, loon make themfelves proficients in 
 this ufeful and polite art. 
 
 We fhall commence the fubjedl with defcribing the 
 method of carving. 
 
 A Roajl Fowl .—See Plate I. 
 
 IN this plate the fowl is placed in the center, and is 
 reprefented as lying on its fide, with one of the legs, 
 wings and neck-bone, taken off. Whether the fowl is 
 roaded or boiled, it mud be cut up in the fame manner. 
 A roaded fowl is lent to table nearly in the fame manner 
 as a pheafant, excepting that the pheafant has the head 
 tucked under one of the wings, whereas the fowl has the 
 
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CARVING. 359 
 
 head cut off before it is dreffed. In a boiled fowl (which 
 is reprefented in the fame plate) the legs are bent inwards, 
 and tucked into the belly ; but, previous to its being fen: 
 to table, the fkewers are withdrawn. The moft conve¬ 
 nient method of cutting up a fowl is, to lay it on your 
 plate, and, as you feparate the joints, in the lines a , b, d, 
 put them into the difh. 
 
 The legs, wings, and merry-thought being removed, 
 the next thing is to cut off the neck-bones. This is 
 done by putting in the knife at g, and paffing it under 
 the long broad part of the bone in the line g b, then lin¬ 
 ing it up, and breaking off the end of the fhorter part of 
 the bone, which cleaves to the breaft-bone. All the 
 parts being thus feparated from the carcafe, divide the 
 breaft from the back, by cutting through the tender ribs 
 on each fide,, from the neck quite down to the vent or 
 tail. Then lay the back upwards on your plate, fix your 
 fork under the rump, and laying the edge of your knife 
 in the line b, e, c , and preffmg it down, lift up the tail or 
 lower part of the back, and it will readily divide with 
 the help of your knife in the line b, e> c. In the next 
 place, lay the lower part of the back upwards in your 
 plate, with the rump from you, and cut off the fide-bones, 
 (or fidcfmen, as they are generally called) by forcing the 
 knife through the rump-bone, in the line e,/, when your 
 fowl will be completely cut up. 
 
 Boiled Fowl .—See Plate I. 
 
 WE have before obfcrved, that a boiled fowl is cut up 
 in the fame manner as one roafted. in the representation 
 of this the fowl is complete, whereas in that part of the 
 other it is in part differed. Thofe parts, which are 
 generally confidered as the moft prime are, the wings, 
 breaft, and merry-thought, and next to thefe, the neck- 
 bones, and fidefman. The legs of boiled fowls are more 
 tender than thofe that are 'roafted j but every part of a 
 chicken is good and juicy. As the thigh-bones of a 
 chicken are very tender, and eafily broken with the teeth, 
 the griftles and marrow render them very delicate. In 
 the boiled fowl the leg ihould be feparated from the 
 
 drum- 
 
360 CARVING. 
 
 drum-flick, at the joint, which is eafily done, if the 
 knife is introduced in the hollow, and the thigh-bone 
 turned back from the leg-bone. 
 
 Partridge —See Plate I. 
 
 TPIE partridge is here reprefented as juft taken from 
 the fpit; but before it is ferved up, the fkewers mud be 
 withdrawn. It is cut in the fame manner as a fowl. 
 The wings muft be taken off in the lines, a y b, and the 
 merry-thought in the line c, d. The prime parts of a 
 partridge are, the wings, bread, and merry-thought. The 
 wing is confidered as the beft, and the tip of it reckoned 
 the mod delicate morfel of the whole. 
 
 Pigeons. —See Plate I. 
 
 HERE are the reprefentations of two, the one with 
 the back uppermoft, and the other with the breaft. That 
 with the back uppermoft as marked No. i,and that with 
 the breaft, No. 2. Pigeons are fometimes cutup in the 
 fame manner as chickens. But as the lower part, with 
 the thigh, is in general moft preferred, and as, from its 
 fmall fige, half a one is not too much for moft appetites, 
 they are feldom carved now, otherwife than by fixing 
 the fork at the point a, entering the knife juft before it, 
 and dividing the pigeon into two, cutting away in the 
 lines a , /;, and a, c , No. 1, at the fame time bringing 
 the knife out at the back, in the direction a } b , and a y c. 
 No. 2. 
 
 A Pheafan*. —See Plate II. 
 
 IN the reprefentation here given, the bird appears in 
 a proper ftate for the lpit, with the head tucked under 
 one of the wings. When laid in the difh, the fkewers 
 drawn, and the bird carried to table, it muft be carved as 
 follows: fix your fork in that part of the breaft where 
 the two dots are marked, by which means you will have 
 a- full command of the bird, and can turn it as you think 
 proper. Slice down the breaft in the lines a , b , and then 
 proceed to take off the leg on one fide, in the dire&ion 
 dy e.y or in the circular dotted line b } d. This done, cut 
 off the wing on the fame fide, in the line c } d. When 
 
 you 
 
V 
 
 I 
 
JZiwrarcd. fi>r Jfendenwrtr ITptuclrrpej'.f /nsli hi'lo; 
 
I 
 
 CARVING. » 361 
 
 you have feparated the leg and wing on ofte fide, do the 
 fame on the other, and then cut off, or feparate from the 
 bread-bone, on each fide of the bread, the parts you be¬ 
 fore fiiced or cut down. Be very attentive in taking off 
 the wing. Cut it in the notch a, for if you cut too near 
 the neck, as at g, you will find yourfeif interrupted by 
 the neck-bone, from whence the wing mud be feparated. 
 Having done this, cut off the merry-thought in the line 
 /, g y by paffing the knife under it towards the neck* 
 With refpedt to the remaining parts they are to be cut up 
 in the fame manner as diredted for a roaft fowl.—The 
 parts mod admired in a pheafant are, firft, the breaff 5 
 then the wings, and next the merry-thought; 
 
 A Goofc .—See Plate II. 
 
 LET the neck-end lay before you, and begin by cut¬ 
 ting two or three long dices, on each fide the bread, in 
 the lines a y by quite to the bone. Cut thefe dices from 
 the bone, then take off the leg, turning the goofe up 
 on one fide, putting the fork through the fmall end of 
 the leg bone, and pretfing it clofe to the body, which 
 when the knife has entered at d y will eafily raife the joint. 
 Then pafs the knife under the leg in the direction d y e . 
 If the leg hangs to the carcafe at the joint e y turn it back 
 with the fork, and, if the goofe is young, it will eafily 
 feparate. Having removed the leg, proceed to take off 
 the wing, by paffing the fork through the fmall end of 
 the pinion, preding it clofe to the body, and entering 
 the knife at the notch c , and paffing it under the wing in 
 the direction c, d. This is a very nice thing to hit, and 
 can only be acquired by pradtice. When you have 
 taken off the leg and wing on one fide, do the fame on 
 the other. Then cut off the apron in the line f> e, gy 
 having done which take off the merry-thought in the line 
 iy h. All the other parts are to be taken off in the fame 
 manner as diredted for the fowl. A goofe is feldom 
 quite diffedted, unlefs the company is very large, in 
 which cafe the above method muff be purfued. 
 
 The parts of a goofe molt efteemed are, the flices from 
 the bread; the flefliy part of the wing, which may be 
 
 X Z z divided 
 
362 CARVING. 
 
 divided from the pinion; the thigh-bone (or drumftick 
 as it is called) the pinion, and the fide-bones. If fagc 
 and onion are put into the body of the goofe (which is 
 by mod approved of) when you have cut off the limbs, 
 draw it out with a fpoon at the place from whence the 
 apron is taken, and mix it with the gravy, which fhould 
 firft be poured boiling hot into the body of the goofe. 
 Some people am particularly fond of the rump, which, 
 after being nicke- with a knife, is peppered and falted, 
 and then broiled till it is of a nice light brown; and this 
 is didinguifhed by the epithet a devil. The fame is like- 
 wife done by the rump of a turkey. 
 
 A Hare .—See Plate II. 
 
 THERE are two ways of cutting up a hare, but the 
 bed and readied way is, to put the point of the knife 
 under the fhoulder at g , and cut through all the way 
 down to the rump, on one fide of the back-bone, in the 
 line g 3 h. When you have done this, cut it in the fame 
 manner on the other fide, at an equal didancc from the 
 back bone, by which means the body will be nearly 
 divided into three. You may now cut the back through 
 the fpine or back-bone, into feveral fmall pieces, more 
 or lefs, in the lines i, k. The back is by far the tendered 
 part, fullelt of gravy, and edeemed the moft delicate. 
 When you help a perfon to a part of the back, you mud 
 give with it a fpoonful of pudding, with which the belly 
 is duffed, below the letters k 3 and which may now be 
 eafily got at. Having feparated the legs from the back¬ 
 bone, they are eafily cut from the belly. The fiefh of 
 the leg is next in edimation to the back ; but the meat 
 is clofer, firmer, and lefs juicy. The fhoulders mud be 
 cut od~ in the circular dotted line e^ J t g. In a large hare, 
 a whole leg is too much to be given to any perfon at one 
 time, it fhould therefore be divided. The bed part of 
 the leg is the flefliy part of the thigh at A, which fhould 
 be cut odi Some people are fond of the head, brains, 
 and bloody part of the neck. But before you begin to 
 dideft the head, cut off the ears at the roots, as many 
 people are fond of them when they are roaded crifp. 
 
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CARVIN G, 363 
 
 The head mud then be divided in this manner: put it 
 on a clean pewter-plate, fo as to have it under hand, 
 and turning the nofe towards you, hold it fteady with your 
 fork, fo that it may not flip from under the knife. You 
 muft then put the point of the knife into the fkull be¬ 
 tween the ears, and by forcing it down, as foon as it has 
 made its way, the head may be eafily divided into two, 
 by forcing the knife, with fome degree of ftrength, quite 
 down through the nofe to a. 
 
 The method of cutting up a hare as here laid down 
 can only be effe&ed when the hare is young. If it is an 
 old one, the bed: method is, to put your knife pretty 
 clofe to the back-bone, and cut off the leg; but, as the 
 hip-bone will be in your way, turn the back of the hare 
 towards you, and endeavour to hit the joint between the 
 hip and the thigh-bone. When you have feparated one, 
 cut off the other; and then cut a long narrow flice or two 
 on each fide of the back-bone, in the drection g , h. 
 Then divide the back-bone into two, three, or more 
 parts, paffing your knife between the feveral joints of the 
 back, all which, by a little attention and patience, may 
 be readily effected. 
 
 Haunch of Venifon .—See Plate III. 
 
 FIRST cut it acrofs down to the bone, in the line 
 by c, ay then turn the dilh with the end d towards you, 
 put in the point of the knife at c, and cut it down as 
 deep as you can in the direction c, d , fo that the two 
 ftrokes will then form the refemblance of the letter T. 
 Having cut it thus, you may cut a3 many dices as are 
 neceffary, according to the number of the company, cut¬ 
 ting them either on the right or left. As the fat lies 
 deeper on the left between d and a, to thofe who are fond 
 of fat (as is the cafe with mod admirers of venifon) the 
 belt flavoured and fatted dices will be found on the left 
 of the line <?, d y fuppoflng the end d turned towards you. 
 In cutting the dices, remember that they mud not be ei¬ 
 ther too thick or too thin. With each dice of lean add 
 a proper proportion of fat, and put a fuflicient quantity 
 of gravy into each plate. Currant jelly fliould always be 
 
 Z z 2 on 
 
364 CARVING. 
 
 on the table for thofe who choofe it. Indeed, this is 
 generally ufed by moft. 
 
 A Fore-Quarter of Lamb .—See Plate III. 
 
 THIS joint is always roafted, and when it comes to 
 table, before you can help any one, you muft feparate 
 the fhoulder from the bread; and ribs (or what is by fome 
 called the coaft) by palling the knife under, in the direc¬ 
 tion c, g, d, e. The fhoulder being then taken off, the 
 juice of a lemon, or Seville orange, fhould be fqueezed 
 upon the part it was taken from, a little fait added, and 
 the fhoulder replaced. The grifily part muft then be 
 feparated from the ribs in the line/, g, and then all the 
 preparatory bufmefs to ferving will be done. The ribs 
 are generally moft efteemed, and one, two or more, may 
 be eafily feparated from the reft, in the line a, by but, to 
 thofe who prefer the griftly part, a piece or two may be 
 cut off in the lines A, i, &c. If you fhould have a fore¬ 
 quarter of grafs-lamb that runs large, the fhoulder when 
 cut off, muft be put into another difh, and carved in the 
 fame manner as a fhoulder of mutton.—See Plate IV. 
 
 A Pig .—See Plate III. 
 
 A PIG is felaom fent whole to table, but is ufually 
 cut up by the cook, who takes off the head, fplits the 
 body down the back, and garnifhes the difh with the 
 chops and ears. 
 
 Before you help any one at table, firft feparate the 
 ihoulders from the carcafe, and then the legs, according 
 to the direction given by the dotted line c, d> e. The 
 moft delicate part of a pig is that about the neck, which 
 may be cut off in the line/, g. The next beft parts are 
 the ribs, which may be divided in the line a, b, &c. and 
 the others are pieces cut from the legs and fhoulders. 
 Indeed, the bones of a pig are little elle than griftle, fo 
 that it may be cut in any part without the leaft difficulty^ 
 It produces fuch a variety of delicate bits, that the fan¬ 
 cies of moft may be readily gratified. 
 
 Shoulder of Mutton .—Plate IV. 
 
 THIS is a very fine joint, and by many preferred to 
 |he leg ? it being very full of gravy, jf properly roafted, 
 
 and 
 

 
 • • s- • 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 A 
 
 
 
 
///v//!-/; rtf/h'//rni/r/wrw /Avm’/\y/v/:<- A/t/fr/nZor. 
 
 vJS houlder ofJtfirrTOJv' t A?i. 
 
 « / Suinnzn of .Mifr rojY 
 
 //ff/o, >/f?z • ff/f / ff/f/. /v<//o /r. 
 
CARVING. 365 
 
 and producing many nice bits. The figure No. 1. re- 
 prefents it as laid in the difh with the back uppermoft. 
 When it is firft cut, it fhould be in the hollow part of it, 
 in the direction a , b , and the knife fhould be palled deep 
 to the bone. The gravy will then run faft into the difh, 
 the part will immediately open, and many fine flices will 
 be readily cut from it. The prime part of the fat lies on 
 the outer-edge, and is to be cut out in thin flices in the 
 direction e,f. If many are at table, and the hollow pare 
 cut in the line a, b, is eaten, fome very good and deli¬ 
 cate flices may be cut out on each fide the ridge of the. 
 blade-bone, in the directions c, d. The line between 
 thefe two dotted lines, is that in the direction of which 
 the edge, or ridge of the blade-bone lies, and cannot be 
 cut acrofs. 
 
 No. 2. reprefents the under-fide, where there are two 
 parts very full of gravy, and fuch as many prefer to the 
 upper-fide. One is a deep cut, in the direction^, A, ac¬ 
 companied with fat, and the other all lean, in a line from 
 i to k. The parts about the fhank are coarfe and dryj 
 but yet fome prefer thefe to the rich and more juicy parts. 
 
 A Saddle of Mutton .—Plate IV. 
 
 THIS is by fome called a chine of mutton, and cofi- 
 lifts of the two loins together, the back-bone running 
 down the middle to the tail. When you carve it you 
 muft cut a long flice in either of the flefhy parts, on the 
 fide of the back-bone, in the directions a , b. There is 
 feldom any great length of tail left on, but if it is fent up 
 with the tail, many will be fond of it, and it may be 
 eafily divided into feveral pieces, by cutting between the 
 joints of the tail, which are about an inch apart. 
 
 A Cod’s Head .—Plate V. 
 
 FISH in general requires very little carving, the 
 flefhy parts being thole principally efteemed. A cod's 
 head and fhoulders, when in feafon, and properly boiled, 
 is a very genteel and handfome difh When cut, it 
 fhould be done with a fpoon fifh-trowel, and the parts 
 about the back-bone on the fhoulders are the moll firm 
 
 and 
 
366 CARVING. 
 
 and bed. Take off a piece quite down to the bone, in 
 the direction a, b, c, d, putting in the fpoon at a , c , and 
 with each dice of fiili give a piece of the round, which 
 lies underneath the back-bone and lines it, the meat of 
 which is thin and a little darker coloured than the body 
 of the fiili itfelf; this may be got, by palling a knife or 
 fpoon underneath, in the diredtion d,f. About the head 
 are many delicate parts, fome fine kernels, and a great 
 deal of the jelly kind. The jelly part lies about the jaw¬ 
 bones, and the firm parts within the head. Some are 
 fond of the palate, and others the tongue, which likewife 
 may be got, by putting a fpoon into the mouth, in the 
 diredtion of the line e. 
 
 A Piece of boiled Salmon .—Plate V. 
 
 THE fatted; and riched part of faimon is the belly; 
 it is therefore cuftomary to give to thofe who like both 
 a thin fiice of each; the one cut out of the belly in the 
 direction c , d, the other out of the back in the line a , b. 
 Molt people who are fond of faimon generally like the 
 fkin, fo that the dices mult be cut thin with the fkin 
 on. 
 
 A Mackarell .—Plate V. 
 
 SLIT the fifh all along the back in the line <2, e , b y 
 and take off the whole fide, as far as the line b y c, not 
 too near the head, as the meat about the gills is gene¬ 
 rally black and ill flavoured. The roe of a male filh is 
 foft, but that of the female is hard, and full of fmall 
 
 eggs. 
 
 A Half Calf’s Head .—Plate VI. 
 
 IN carving this begin by cutting the fiefh quite along 
 the cheek-bone, in the diredtion c , b , from whence feve- 
 ral handfome dices may be taken. In the flefhy part, at 
 the end of the jaw-bone, lies part of the throat fweet- 
 bread, which may be cut into, in the line c , d 3 and which 
 is efteemed the bed part in the head. Many like the 
 eye, which is to be cut from its focket a , by forcing the 
 point of the knife down to the bottom of one edge of the 
 focket, and cutting quite round, keeping the point of the 
 
 knife 
 
Engraved for Hcrde/vont Housekeepers Instructor. 
 
 .A Con's limn 
 
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 _ _ (/h//cj for Cae n &//(/. Plate T. 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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 H Ham 
 
 // ft ^ ’ /fit • fsr'/rnu/. C/o/r FT. 
 
CARVING. * 367 
 
 knife danting towards the middle, fo as to feparate the 
 meat from the bone. The palate is alfo reckoned by 
 fome very delicate : it lays on the under-fide of the roof 
 of the mouth, is a wrinkled, white, thick fkin, and may 
 be eafily feparated from the bone by a knife, by railing 
 the head with your left hand. There is alfo fome nice 
 tender bits on the under-fide, covering the under-jaw, 
 and fome delicate griftlv fat to be pared off about the ear, 
 g. In the upper-jaw is the large tooth behind, which 
 having feveral cells, and being full of jelly, is called the 
 fweet-tooth; but its delicacy is more in the name than 
 any thing elfe. When you ferve any perfon with a flice 
 of the head, you muft enquire whether they chufe to 
 have any of the tongue and brains, which are generally 
 ferved up in a feparate difh. A flice from the thick part 
 of the tongue, near the root, is the bed. 
 
 Leg of Mutton. —Plate VI. 
 
 A LEG of weather-mutton, which is by far the bed 
 flavoured, may be readily known by the kernel, or little 
 round lump of fat, juft above the letters a y e. This 
 joint, whether boiled or roafted, is carved in the fame 
 manner. The perfon who does this bufinefs ftiould turn 
 the joint towards him as it here lies, the drank to the left 
 hand ; then holding it fteady with his fork, he fhould cut 
 it deep on the defhy part, in the hollow of the thigh, 
 quite to the bone, in the direction a i b . Then will he 
 cut it right through the kernel of fat called the pope's 
 eye , of which many are particularly fond. The mod 
 juicy parts of the leg are in the thick part of it, from it 
 line *z, b, upwards, towards e ■, but many prefer the drier 
 part, about the drank or knuckle, which fome call the 
 venilon part from its eating fo diortj but'this is certainly 
 the coarfeft parts of the joint. The fat lies chiedy on the 
 ridges e, e, and is to be cut in the direction e, f. In 
 order to cut out what is by fome called the cramp-bone, 
 and by others the gentleman's bone, you muft take hold 
 of the (hank-bone with your left-hand, and cutting down 
 to the thigh-bone at the point d, the palling the knife 
 under the cramp bone, in the direction d } c, it may eafily 
 be cut out. 
 
 A Ham 
 
S68 
 
 CARVING. 
 
 A Ham .—Plate VI. 
 
 A HAM is cut two ways, either acrofs in the line 
 3 , c, or in the circular line in the middle, taking out a 
 fmall piece as at a, and cutting thin Oices in a circular 
 direction, thus enlarging it by degrees. This laft me¬ 
 thod is, to preferve the gravy and keep it moift, which 
 is thus prevented from running out. 
 
 Piece of Sirloin of Beef .—Plate VII. 
 
 AS a whole firloin is too large for families in general, 
 fo we have here only reprefented a part, either of which 
 muft be carved in the fame manner. It is drawn as 
 Handing up in the difh, in order to fliew the infide, or 
 upper-part; but when fent to table, it is always laid 
 down, fo that the part deferibed by the letter c 3 lies clofe 
 on the difh The part c } d, then lies uppermoft, and 
 the line a , b , underneath. The meat on the upper-fide 
 of the ribs is firmer, and of a clofer texture, than the 
 flefhy part underneath, which is by far the molt tender, 
 and of courfe preferred by many. To thofe who like the 
 upper-fide, the outlide flice fhould be firft cut off 7 , quite 
 down to the bone, in the dire&ion c, d. Some people, 
 however, inftead of beginning to carve at either end, cut 
 it in the middle of the molt flefhy part. For thofe who 
 prefer the infide, feveral flicesmay be cut in the direction 
 of the line a, b, prefling the knife down to the bone. 
 But wherever the Dices are cut they muft be of a mode¬ 
 rate fubftance, neither too thick nor too thin. 
 
 Edge-bone of Beef. —Plate VII. 
 
 THE outride of this joint is generally injured in its 
 flavour from the water in which it is boiled; a thick flice 
 muft therefore be firft cut off, the whole length of the 
 joint, beginning at a 3 and cutting it all the way even and 
 through the whole furface, from a to b. The foft far, 
 which refembles marrow, lies on the back below the let¬ 
 ter d> and the firm fat muft be cut in thin horizontal 
 flices at the point c ; but as fome people like the foft, and 
 fome the firm fat, it is necefiary to afk the company 
 which they prefer. The upper part, as it is generally 
 
 placed 
 
flnctrared foi-IIc7tdeiiron.f Ilourekeepcrj'Inotj'iuXor. 
 
 Part of a Sm-L om of Beef 
 
 , dn Edge Hone of Heef 
 

CARVING. 3 6 g 
 
 placed in the difh, is the handfomeft, fulleft of gravy, 
 tnoft tender, and enriched with fat; but there are fome 
 Who prefer a (lice from the under fide, though it is lean 
 and dry. The fkewer that keeps the meat properly to¬ 
 gether when boiling is here fhewn at a. This fhould be 
 drawn out before it is ferved up; or, if it is neceffary to 
 leave the- fkewer in, it fhould be a filver one. 
 
 Brifket of Beef 
 
 THIS is a part always boiled, and muff be cut in the 
 direction a , b , quite down to the bone, after having cut 
 off the outfide, or firft (lice, which muft be cut pretty 
 thick. The fat cut with this flice is a firm, griftly fat, 
 but a fofter fat is found underneath for thofe who prefer 
 it. 
 
 Brcajl of Veal . 
 
 A BREAST of veal muft be cut acrofs quite through, 
 dividing the griftles from the rib-bones; this is called, 
 cutting the brifket from the ribs. The brifket may be 
 cut into pieces as wanted; for fome prefer this part to the 
 ribs. There requires no great direftion how to feparate 
 the ribs, fince nothing more is required, than to put the 
 knife in at the top between any two, and continue down¬ 
 wards till they are fcparated. Remember to give a 
 piece of the fweet-bread to every one you help, as that 
 is reckoned particularly delicate . 1 
 
 Fillet of Veati 
 
 THIS part of the calf is the fame as that called the 
 buttock in the ox. Many people think the outfide flice 
 of a fillet of veal a delicacy, becaufe it is moft favory j 
 but as fome think otherwife, the queftion fhould be afked 
 before any one is helped. If no one choofes the firft: 
 flice, lay it in the dj-fh, and the fecond cut will be ex¬ 
 ceeding white and delicate ; but take care to cut it even, 
 and clofe to the bone. A fillet of veal is always fluffed, 
 under the fkirt, or flap, with a pudding, or forcemeat. 
 This you tnuft cut deep into, in a line with the furface 
 of the fillet, and take out a thin flice. This, and a thin 
 
 X* 3 A flice 
 
37 ° CARVING, We. 
 
 flice of fat cut from the fkirt, mud be given to each 
 perfon at table. 
 
 Sparerib of Pork. 
 
 THIS is carved by cutting out dices in the thick 
 part at the bottom of the bones. When the flefhy 
 part is all cut away, the bones, which are efteemed very 
 fweet picking, may be eafily feparated. Few people 
 admire the gravy of pork, it being too ftrong for mod 
 ftomachs. 
 
 The following, being a Matter of fome confequence, we 
 embrace the Opportunity of inferting it in this Place : 
 
 * 
 
 To preferve Butter from a difagreeable Flavour, from Cows 
 being depafured , on Cabbages , Turnips , &c. &c. 
 
 Taken from Mr. Billingsley’s Survey of Somerset. 
 
 WHEN the milk is fet abroad in the leads, put one 
 gallon of boiling water to fix gallons of milk. 
 
 It may alfo be prevented by diffolving nitre in fpring 
 water, and putting about a quarter of a pint to ten or 
 twelve gallons of milk, when warm from the cow. 
 
 THE 
 
THE HOUSEKEEPER’S CALENDAR 
 
 OR A 
 
 \ 
 
 LIST of the various feafonable ARTICLES for\ the: 
 different Months in the YEAR. 
 
 JANUARY. 
 
 MEAT, 
 
 OEEF 
 
 Houfe-Lamb 
 
 Veal 
 
 Pork 
 
 fi Mutton 
 
 
 
 
 
 FOUL 
 
 TRY, tfc. 
 
 
 Pheafant T r Rabbits 
 
 Turkeys 
 
 Fowls 
 
 Partridge y ame Woodcocks 
 
 Capons 
 
 Chickens 
 
 Hares 
 
 Snipes 
 
 Pullets 
 
 Tame Pigeons 
 
 
 FISH. 
 
 
 Carp 
 
 Craw-filh 
 
 Turbot 
 
 Whitings 
 
 Tench 
 
 Cod 
 
 Thornback 
 
 Lobfters 
 
 Perch 
 
 Soles 
 
 Skate 
 
 Crabs 
 
 Lampreys 
 
 Flounders 
 
 Sturgeon 
 
 Prawns 
 
 Eels 
 
 Plaice 
 
 Smelts 
 
 Oyfters 
 
 
 V E G E T . 
 
 A B L E S, 
 
 fcfc. 
 
 Cabbage 
 
 Radiih 
 
 Beets 
 
 Savoury 
 
 Savoys 
 
 Turnips 
 
 Parfley 
 
 Pot-Majoram 
 
 Coleworts 
 
 Tarragon 
 
 Sorrel 
 
 Hyfop 
 
 Sprouts 
 
 Sage 
 
 Chervil 
 
 Said fie 
 
 -Brocoli, purple 
 
 Parfnips 
 
 Celery 
 
 to be had, though 
 
 and white 
 
 Carrots 
 
 Endive 
 
 not in feafon. 
 
 Spinage 
 
 Turnips 
 
 Mint 
 
 Jerufalem Am- 
 
 Lettuces 
 
 Potatoes 
 
 Cucumbers in chokes 
 
 Crefles 
 
 Scorzonera 
 
 hot houfes 
 
 Afparagus 
 
 Muftard 
 
 Skirrets 
 
 Thyme 
 
 Mulhrooms 
 
 Rape 
 
 Cardoons 
 
 
 
 
 FRUIT. 
 
 
 Apples 
 
 Nuts 
 
 Services 
 
 Grapes 
 
 Pears 
 
 Almonds 
 
 Medlars 
 
 
 
 FEBRUARY. 
 
 
 
 M 
 
 EAT. 
 
 
 Beef 
 
 Mutton 
 
 Veal 
 
 Pork 
 
 Houfe-Lamb 
 
 
 
 
 
 x POULTRY ; 
 
 
 Turkeys 
 
 Fowls 
 
 Pheafants 
 
 Snipes 
 
 Capons 
 
 Chickens 
 
 Partridges 
 
 Hares 
 
 Pullets 
 
 Pigeons 
 
 Woodcocks 
 
 Tame Rabbits 
 
 
 F 
 
 I S H. 
 
 
 Cod 
 
 Turbot 
 
 Lobfters 
 
 Perch 
 
 Soles 
 
 Thornback 
 
 Crabs 
 
 Carp 
 
 Sturgeon 
 
 Skate 
 
 Oyfters 
 
 Eels 
 
 Flounders 
 
 Whitings 
 
 Prawns 
 
 Lampreys 
 
 Plaice 
 
 Smelts 
 
 Tench 
 
 Craw-fifh 
 
 
 
 3 A 2 
 
 VEGETABLES, 
 
372 HOUSEKEEPER’S 
 
 
 V E G 
 
 E r A B L E S } lAc 
 
 
 Cabbage 
 
 Afparagus Celery 
 
 Cucumbers 
 
 Savoys 
 
 Kidney Beans Chard Beets 
 
 Onions 
 
 Coleworts 
 
 Carrots 
 
 Lettuces 
 
 Leeks 
 
 Sprouts 
 
 Turnips 
 
 Crelfes 
 
 Shalots 
 
 Brocoli, purple Parfnips 
 
 Burnet 
 
 Garlick 
 
 and white 
 
 Potatoes 
 
 Tanfey 
 
 Rocombole 
 
 Muftard 
 
 Cardoons Thyme 
 
 Salfifie 
 
 Rape 
 
 Beets 
 
 Savoury 
 
 Skijret 
 
 Radifhes 
 
 Parlley 
 
 Marjoram 
 
 Scorzonera 
 
 Turnips 
 
 Chervil 
 
 /Jl r l h j 
 
 Jerufalem Arti¬ 
 
 Tarragon 
 
 Endive 
 
 diljo may be had 
 
 chokes 
 
 Mint 
 
 Sorrel 
 
 Forced Radilhes 
 
 
 
 F R U 1 T. 
 
 
 Pears 
 
 Apples 
 
 Grapes 
 
 
 ' 
 
 MARCH. 
 
 
 
 
 M E A r. 
 
 
 Beef 
 
 Mutton 
 
 Veal 
 
 FIoufe-Lamb 
 
 Pork 
 
 
 
 
 
 P 0 
 
 U L r R Y, Vc. 
 
 
 Turkeys 
 
 Capons 
 
 Chickens 
 
 Pigeons 
 
 Pullets 
 
 Fowls 
 
 Ducklings 
 
 Tame Rabbit* 
 
 
 
 FISH. 
 
 
 Carp 
 
 Skate 
 
 Flounders 
 
 Crabs 
 
 Tench 
 
 Eels 
 
 Lobfters 
 
 Craw-fifb 
 
 Turbot 
 
 Mullets 
 
 Soles 
 
 Prawns 
 
 Thornback 
 
 Plaice 
 
 Whitings 
 
 
 
 VEGETABLES , 
 
 
 Carrots 
 
 Beets 
 
 Mint 
 
 Lettuces 
 
 Turnips 
 
 Parlley 
 
 Burnet 
 
 Chives 
 
 Parfnips 
 
 Fennel 
 
 Thyme 
 
 C reties 
 
 Jerufalem Arti¬ 
 
 Celery 
 
 Winter-Savoury 
 
 Muftard 
 
 chokes 
 
 Endive 
 
 Coleworts 
 
 Pot-Marjoram 
 
 Onions 
 
 Tanfey 
 
 Borecole 
 
 Hyfop 
 
 Garlick 
 
 Rape 
 
 Cabbages 
 
 Fennel 
 
 Shalots 
 
 Radifhes 
 
 Savoys 
 
 Cucumbers 
 
 Brocoli 
 
 Turnips 
 
 Spinage 
 
 Kidney-Beans 
 
 Cardoons 
 
 Tarragon 
 
 Mylhrooms 
 
 
 
 
 F R U 1 T. 
 
 
 Pears 
 
 Apples 
 
 Forced Strawberries 
 
 
 
 APRIL. 
 
 
 
 
 M EAT. 
 
 
 Eeef 
 
 Mutton 
 
 Veal 
 
 Lamb 
 
 
 P 0 
 
 U L r r r, 
 
 
 Pullets 
 
 Chickens 
 
 Pigeons 
 
 Leverets 
 
 Fowls 
 
 Duckling! 
 
 s Rabbits 
 
 
 
 
 
 FIS II , 
 
/ 
 
 373 
 
 CALENDAR 
 
 
 
 FISH. 
 
 
 
 Carp 
 
 Trout 
 
 Turbot 
 
 Mullets 
 
 Crabs 
 
 Chub 
 
 Craw-fifh 
 
 Soles 
 
 Smelts 
 
 Lobfters 
 
 Tench 
 
 Salmon 
 
 Skate 
 
 Herrings 
 
 Prawns 
 
 
 V E 
 
 G E T A B 
 
 L E S. 
 
 
 Coleworts 
 
 Fennel 
 
 Celery 
 
 Tarragon 
 
 Thyme 
 
 Sprouts 
 
 Parfley 
 
 Endive 
 
 Radifhes 
 
 All lorts of 
 
 Brocoli 
 
 Chervil 
 
 Sorrel 
 
 Lettuces 
 
 Pot-Herbs 
 
 Spinage 
 
 Young OnionsBurnet 
 
 Small Sallad 
 
 
 
 
 fruit. 
 
 
 Apples 
 
 Pears 
 
 Forced Cherries and Apricots for Tarts 
 
 
 
 MAY. 
 
 
 
 
 
 MEAT. 
 
 
 
 Beef 
 
 Mutton 
 
 Veal 
 
 Lamb 
 
 
 
 P O 
 
 U L T R Y, &c. 
 
 
 Pullets 
 
 Chickens 
 
 Ducklings 
 
 Rabbits 
 
 Leverets 
 
 Fowls 
 
 Green Geefe Turkey Poults 
 
 
 
 
 FISH. 
 
 
 
 Carp 
 
 Trout 
 
 Soles 
 
 Smelts 
 
 Crabs 
 
 Tench 
 
 Chub 
 
 Turbot 
 
 Lobfters 
 
 Prawns 
 
 Eels 
 
 Salmon 
 
 Herrings 
 
 Craw-fifh 
 
 
 
 V E G . 
 
 E T A B L . 
 
 E S, Ur. 
 
 
 Earlv PotatoesArtichokes 
 
 Fennel 
 
 Herbs 
 
 Beans 
 
 Carrots 
 
 Spinage 
 
 Lettuces 
 
 Thyme 
 
 Kidney Beans 
 
 Turnips 
 
 Parfley 
 
 Crefles 
 
 Savoury 
 
 Afparagus 
 
 Radifhes 
 
 Sorrel 
 
 Muftard 
 
 Allotherfweet 1 ragopogon 
 
 Early Cab¬ 
 
 Barley 
 
 All forts of 
 
 Herbs 
 
 0 u c u m bers* 
 
 bages 
 
 Mint 
 
 fmall SalladPeafe 
 
 See. 
 
 Cauliflowers 
 
 Purflane 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 FRUIT. 
 
 
 Pears 
 
 Strawberries 
 
 Melons 
 
 Currants for And Goofe-. 
 
 Apples 
 
 Cherries 
 
 Green Apricots Tarts berries 
 
 
 
 JUNE 
 
 • 
 
 
 
 
 MEAT. 
 
 
 
 Beef 
 
 Mutton 
 
 Veal 
 
 Lamb 
 
 Buck Venifon 
 
 
 P 0 
 
 U L T R r, 
 
 &c. 
 
 
 Fowls 
 
 Chickens 
 
 Ducklings 
 
 Plovers 
 
 Leverets 
 
 Pullets 
 
 Green Geefe 
 
 Turkey PoultsWheat-Ears 
 
 Rabbits 
 
 
 
 FISH. 
 
 
 
 Trout 
 
 Pike 
 
 Soles 
 
 Mackarel 
 
 Lobfters 
 
 Carp 
 
 Eels 
 
 Turbot 
 
 Herrings 
 
 Craw-fifh 
 
 Tench 
 
 Salmon 
 
 Mullets 
 
 Smelts 
 
 Prawns 
 
 
 VEGETABLES, &c. 
 
 
 Carrots 
 
 Onions 
 
 Artichokes 
 
 Purflane 
 
 Thyme 
 
 Turnips 
 
 Beans 
 
 Cucumbers 
 
 Rape 
 
 All forts of 
 
 Potatoes 
 
 Peafe 
 
 Lettuce 
 
 Crefles 
 
 Pot-Herbs 
 
 Parfnips 
 
 Afparagus 
 
 Spinage 
 
 All other fmall 
 
 Radifhes 
 
 Kidney Beans Parfley 
 
 Sallading 
 
 fKUJl, 
 
374 HOUSEKEEPER’S 
 
 
 
 FRUIT 
 
 
 
 Cherries 
 
 Currants 
 
 Apples 
 
 Neftarines 
 
 Melons 
 
 Strawberries 
 
 Mafculine 
 
 Pears 
 
 Grapes 
 
 Pine Apples 
 
 Goofeberries 
 
 Apricots 
 
 Some Peaches 
 
 
 
 
 JULY 
 
 • 
 
 
 
 
 MEAT. 
 
 
 
 Beef 
 
 Mutton 
 
 Veal 
 
 Lamb 
 
 Buck Venifor. 
 
 
 P o 
 
 U L T R Y, &c. 
 
 
 Pullets 
 
 Pigeons 
 
 Turkey Poultsridges 
 
 Plovers 
 
 Fowls 
 
 Green Geefe 
 
 Ducks 
 
 Pheafants 
 
 Leverets 
 
 Chickens 
 
 Ducklings 
 
 Young Part- 
 
 Wheat-Ears 
 
 Rabbits 
 
 
 
 F I S H. 
 
 
 
 Cod 
 
 Tench 
 
 Plaice 
 
 Skate 
 
 Carp 
 
 Haddocks 
 
 Pike 
 
 Flounders 
 
 Thornback 
 
 Prawns 
 
 Mullets 
 
 Herrings 
 
 Eels 
 
 Salmon 
 
 Craw-fifh 
 
 Mackarel 
 
 Soles 
 
 Lobfters 
 
 
 
 
 V E G 
 
 E T A B L 
 
 E S, &c. 
 
 
 Carrots 
 
 Scorzonera 
 
 Celery 
 
 Crefles 
 
 Thyme 
 
 Turnips 
 
 Salfifie 
 
 Eudive 
 
 All fort9 of All othe/ Pot- 
 
 Potatoes 
 
 Mufhrootns 
 
 Finocha 
 
 {mail Sallad Herbs 
 
 Radifhes 
 
 Cauliflowers 
 
 Chervil 
 
 Herbs 
 
 Peafe 
 
 Onions 
 
 Cabbages 
 
 Sorrel 
 
 Mint 
 
 Beans 
 
 Garlick 
 
 Sprouts 
 
 Purflane 
 
 Balm 
 
 Kidney Beans 
 
 Rocombole 
 
 Artichokes 
 
 Lettuce 
 
 
 
 
 
 FRUIT. 
 
 
 Pears 
 
 Peaches 
 
 Apricots 
 
 Strawberries 
 
 Melons 
 
 Apples 
 
 Nectarines 
 
 Goofeberries Rafpberries 
 
 •Pine Apples 
 
 Cherries 
 
 Plumbs 
 
 
 
 
 
 A 
 
 U G U S 
 
 . T. 
 
 
 
 
 M E A T. 
 
 
 Beef 
 
 Mutton 
 
 Veal 
 
 Lamb 
 
 Buck Venifon 
 
 
 P 0 
 
 U L T R Y, &e 
 
 
 Fowls 
 
 Green Geefe 
 
 Leverets 
 
 Pheafants 
 
 Wheat-Ears 
 
 Pullets 
 
 Turkey PoultsRabbits 
 
 Wild Ducks 
 
 Plovers 
 
 Chickens 
 
 Ducklings' 
 
 Pigeons 
 
 
 
 
 
 FISH. 
 
 
 
 Cod 
 
 Skate 
 
 Mackarel 
 
 Carp 
 
 Craw-fifh 
 
 Haddock 
 
 Thornback 
 
 Herrings 
 
 Eels 
 
 Prawns 
 
 Flounders 
 
 Mullets 
 
 Pike 
 
 Lobfters 
 
 Oyfters 
 
 Plaice 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 V E G 
 
 E T A B L 
 
 E S , fcfc. 
 
 
 Carrots 
 
 Shalots 
 
 Mufhrooms 
 
 Celery 
 
 Small Sallad 
 
 Turnips 
 
 Scorzonera 
 
 Artichokes 
 
 Endive 
 
 Thyme 
 
 Potatoes 
 
 Salfifie 
 
 Cabbage 
 
 Finocha 
 
 Savoury 
 
 R-adifhes 
 
 Peafe * 
 
 Cauliflowers 
 
 Parfley 
 
 Marjoram 
 
 Onions 
 
 Beans 
 
 Sprouts 
 
 Lettuces 
 
 All forts of 
 
 Garlic 
 
 Kidney Beans Beets 
 
 All forts of fweet Herbs . 
 
 
 
 
 
 F R {J I T 
 

 CALENDAR. 
 
 575 
 
 
 
 fruit. 
 
 
 Peaches 
 
 Cherries 
 
 Grapes 5/Iulberries 
 
 Currants 
 
 Ne&arines 
 
 Apples 
 
 Figs Strawberries 
 
 Melons 
 
 Plumbs 
 
 Pears 
 
 Filberts Goofeberries 
 
 ; Pine Apples 
 
 
 SEPTEMBER. 
 
 
 
 
 MEAT. 
 
 
 Beef Mutton Lamb Veal Pork 
 
 Buck Venifon 
 
 • 
 
 P c 
 
 > U L T R Yy Vc. 
 
 
 Geefe 
 
 Pigeons 
 
 Fowls Chickens 
 
 Pheafants 
 
 Turkies 
 
 Larks 
 
 Hares Ducks 
 
 Partridges 
 
 Teals 
 
 Pullets 
 
 Rabbits 
 
 
 
 
 FISH. 
 
 
 Cod 
 
 Plaice 
 
 Soles Tench 
 
 Lobfters 
 
 Haddock 
 
 Thombacks 
 
 Salmon Pike 
 
 Oyfters 
 
 Flounders 
 
 Skate 
 
 Carp 
 
 
 
 V E 
 
 G E T A B L E S. 
 
 
 Carrots 
 
 Garlick 
 
 Mulhrooms Endive 
 
 Chervil 
 
 Turnips 
 
 Scorzonera 
 
 Artichokes Celery 
 
 Sorrel 
 
 Potatoes 
 
 Salfifie 
 
 Cabbage Parfley 
 
 Beets 
 
 Shalots 
 
 Peafe 
 
 Sprouts Finocha 
 
 Thyme, and 
 
 Onions 
 
 Beans 
 
 Cauliflowers Lettuces, and 
 
 l all Sorts of 
 
 Leeks 
 
 Kidney BeansCardoons fmall Saliad Soup Herbs 
 
 
 
 FRUIT. 
 
 
 Peaches 
 
 Pears 
 
 Filberts Quinces 
 
 Mor. Cherries 
 
 Plumbs 
 
 Grapes 
 
 Hazel Nuts Lazarcles 
 
 Melons 
 
 Apples 
 
 Walnuts 
 
 Medlars Currants 
 
 Pine Apples 
 
 
 o c 
 
 T O B E R. 
 
 
 
 
 M E A T. 
 
 
 Beef Mutton Lamb Veal Pork 
 
 Doe Venifort, 
 
 
 P 0 
 
 U LT R Y, (3c. 
 
 
 Geefe 
 
 Fowls 
 
 Teals Larks 
 
 Pheafants 
 
 Turkies 
 
 Chickens 
 
 Widgeons Dotterels 
 
 Partridges 
 
 Pigeons 
 
 Rabbits 
 
 Woodcocks flares 
 
 
 Pullets 
 
 Wild Ducks 
 
 Snipes 
 
 
 
 
 FISH. 
 
 
 Dorees 
 
 Smelts 
 
 Pike Perch 
 
 Cockles 
 
 Holobets 
 
 Brills 
 
 Carp Salmon Trout Mu fcles 
 
 Bearbet 
 
 Gudgeons 
 
 Tench Lobfters 
 
 Oyfters 
 
 
 V E < 
 
 GETABLES. 
 
 
 Cabbages 
 
 Turnips 
 
 Shalots Chervil 
 
 young Sal- 
 
 Sprouts 
 
 Potatoes 
 
 Garlick Finocha 
 
 lad , 
 
 Cauliflowers 
 
 Skirrets 
 
 Rocombole Chard Beets 
 
 Thyme 
 
 Artichokes 
 
 Salfifie 
 
 Celery Corn Saliad 
 
 Savoury 
 
 Carrots 
 
 Scorzonera 
 
 Endive Lettuce 
 
 All forts of 
 
 Parfnips 
 
 Leeks 
 
 Cardoons All foits of 
 
 Pot- Herbs 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 I R U I T 
 
 <av 
 
37 6 
 
 Peaches 
 
 Grapes 
 
 Figs 
 
 HOUSEKEEPER’s, &c. 
 
 F R U I T. 
 
 Medlars Blacks whiteFilberts 
 
 Services Bullace Hazle-Nuts 
 
 Quinces Walnuts 
 
 NOVEMBER. 
 
 Pears 
 
 Apples 
 
 O 
 
 Mutton 
 
 P 
 
 Pullets 
 Pigeons 
 Wild Ducks 
 Teals 
 
 Beef 
 
 Geefe 
 T urhies 
 Fowls 
 Chickens 
 
 Gurnets 
 
 Dorees „ 
 
 Salmon TroutLobfcers 
 
 V E G 
 Scorzonera 
 Onions 
 Leeks 
 Shalots 
 Rocombole 
 
 M E A 
 
 Veal 
 
 U L T R 
 
 T. 
 
 Houfe Lamb 
 
 Y, &c. 
 
 Smelts 
 
 Gudgeons 
 
 Carrots 
 
 Turnips 
 
 Parfnips 
 
 Potatoes 
 
 Skirret 
 
 Saltifia 
 
 Pears 
 
 Apples 
 
 Widgeons 
 Woodcocks 
 Snipes 
 Larks 
 F I $ IE 
 Holobets 
 Bearbet 
 ' Salmon 
 E TA B L 
 tichokes 
 Cabbage 
 Cauliflowers 
 Savoys 
 Sprouts 
 
 Jerufalem Ar-Coleworts 
 
 F R U I T. 
 
 Bullace Hazle-Nuts Medlars 
 
 Chefnuts Walnuts Services 
 
 DECEMBER. 
 
 Dotterels 
 
 Hares 
 
 Rabbits 
 
 Carp 
 Pike 
 Tench 
 E S, tsV. 
 Spinage 
 Chard Beet 
 Cardoons 
 Parfley 
 Crefles 
 Endive 
 
 Doe VenifcR 
 
 Partridges 
 
 Pheafants 
 
 Oyflers 
 
 Cockles 
 
 Mufcles 
 
 Chervil 
 Lettuces 
 All forts of 
 Sallad Herbs 
 Thyme, ^ all 
 Pot-Herbs 
 
 Grapes 
 
 Beef Mutton Veal 
 
 M E A T. 
 
 PIoufe-Lamb 
 
 Pork Doe Venifon 
 
 R 
 
 Geefe 
 
 Turkeys 
 
 Pullets 
 
 Pigeons 
 
 Turbot 
 
 Gurnets 
 
 Sturgeon 
 
 Cabbages 
 Savoys 
 
 Capons 
 
 Fowls 
 
 Chickens 
 
 Hares 
 
 P O U L 5 
 Rabbits 
 Woodcocks 
 Snipes 
 Larks 
 
 Y, &c. 
 
 Wild Ducks 
 
 Teals 
 
 Widgeons 
 
 Dotterels 
 
 Partridges 
 
 Pheafants 
 
 5 H. 
 
 Holobets 
 Bearbet 
 Smelts 
 V E 
 Turnips 
 Lettuces 
 
 Brocoli-purpleCrelfes 
 
 F I 
 Cod 
 
 Codlings 
 
 Soles 
 
 E T A B 
 Scorzonera 
 Sal fi fie 
 Leeks 
 
 Mufcles 
 
 Oyfters 
 
 Small Sallad Onions 
 Potatoes 
 Skirrets 
 
 Carp 
 Gudgeon 
 Eels, Cockles Dorees 
 
 L E S, tfc. 
 
 Forced Afpa-Beets 
 ragus Spinage 
 
 Garlick Parfley 
 
 Rocombole 
 Celery 
 Endive 
 
 Medlars 
 
 Services 
 
 Shalots 
 Cardoons 
 
 FRUIT. 
 
 Chefnuts Hazle-nuts 
 .Walnuts 
 
 Thyme 
 All forts of 
 Pot-Herbs 
 
 and white 
 Carrots 
 Parfnips 
 
 Apples 
 pears 
 
 This Calendar contains fo great a variety of articles-in feafon for each month, that it 
 requires ^nly the care and ingenuity of the cook, by referring to the lift of articles me 
 h&> provided the proceeding day, to furnifh her guefts with novelty every clay in the wee]^> 
 
 Grapes 
 
( 377 ) 
 
 The DECORATIONS of the TABLE, 
 
 DISPLAYED IN 
 
 Two different Courfes for each Month in the Year. 
 
 JANUARY. 
 
 FIRST COURSE. 
 
 Chefnut Soup 
 
 . Leg of Lamb Petit Patties Boiled Chickens 
 Chicken and Veal Pie Cod’s Head Roaft Beef 
 
 Tongue Pidgeons Compote Scotch Collops 
 
 Vermicelli Soup 
 
 SECOND COURSE. 
 
 Roaft Turkey 
 
 Marinaded Smelts Tartlets Mince Pies 
 
 Roaft Sweetmeats Stands of Jellies Larks 
 
 Almond Tart Orange Pudding Lobfters 
 
 Woodcocks. 
 
 FEBRUARY. 
 
 FIRST COURSE . 
 
 Peas Soup 
 
 Chickens Chicken Patty Mutton Collops 
 
 Harrico of Mutton Salmon and Smelts Rump of Beef a-la-daub 
 Pork Cutlets Oyfters 
 
 Sauce Robart Patties Small Ham 
 
 Soup Sante 
 
 SECOND COURSE. 
 
 Wild Fowl 
 
 Cardoons Difh of Jelly Stewed Pippins 
 
 Scolloped Oyfters Epergne Ragout Mele 
 
 Comport Pears Caromel Artichoke Bottoms 
 
 Hare 
 
 Sheeps Rumps 
 Chine of Mutton and 
 Srrwed Celery 
 Veal Collops 
 
 Fillet of Pork 
 Lamb’s Head 
 Calves Ears 
 
 MARCH. 
 
 FIRST COURSE. 
 
 Sonp Lorrain 
 Almond Pudding 
 Stewed Carp 
 or Tench 
 Beaf-fteak Pie 
 Onion Soup 
 
 SECOND COURSE. 
 
 A Pullet larded and roafted 
 Afparagus BJancm a nge Prawns 
 
 Ragooed Sweetbreads A Trifle Fricafee of Rabbits 
 
 Craw*fifh Cheefe-cakes Fricafee of Mufliroomr 
 
 Tame Pigeons roafted 
 
 ?. B 
 
 No, X, 
 
 APRIL, 
 
37 8 
 
 Chickens 
 
 Ereaft of Veal 
 in Rolio 
 Lamb’s Chops 
 en Cafarole 
 
 COURSES. 
 
 APRIL. 
 
 / R S T COURSE. 
 
 Crimp Cod and Smelts 
 
 Marrow Pudding 9lj ,t ! ets ^ 
 
 Maintenon 
 
 Spring Soup Beef Tremblonque 
 
 PigeonPie Tongues 
 
 Whitings boiled and broiled 
 
 SECOND COURSE. 
 Ducklings 
 
 Afparagus Tarlets Black Caps 
 
 Roaft Sweet- Jellies and Syl- Oyfters 
 
 bread labubs Loaves 
 
 Stewed Pears Tanfey Mulhrooms 
 
 Ribs of Lamb 
 
 M A Y. 
 
 FIRST COURSE, 
 
 Rabbits with 
 Onions 
 
 Pigeon Pie raifed 
 Ox Palates 
 
 Salmon broiled 
 Veal 
 Olives 
 
 Vermicelli Soup 
 Chine of Lamb 
 Mackarel 
 
 Collard 
 Mutton 
 Macaroni Tart 
 Fricaflee of 
 Tame Ducks 
 
 SECOND COURSE. 
 
 Green Goofe 
 
 Afparagus Cuftards Cocks Combs 
 
 Green Goofeberry Tarts Epergne Green Apricots Tarts 
 Lamb Cutlets Blancmange Stewed Celery 
 
 Roaft Chickens 
 
 JUNE. 
 
 FIRST C O U R S E. 
 
 Green Peas Soup 
 
 Chickens Haunch of Venifon Harrico 
 
 Lamb Pie Turbot Ham 
 
 Veal Cutlets Neck of Venifon Orange Pudding 
 Lobfter Soup 
 
 *S E C O N D COURSE. 
 
 Turkey Poults 
 
 Peas Apricot Puffs Lobfters 
 
 tiicaffee of Lamb Moonfhine RoaHed Sweetbreads 
 Sruelts Cherry Tarts Artichokes 
 
 Roafted" Rabbits 
 
 JULY, 
 
COURSES. 
 
 379 
 
 JULY. 
 
 FIRST COURSE . 
 
 Bread of Veal 
 a-la-braife 
 Venifon Pally 
 
 Chickens 
 
 Stewed Peas 
 Sweetbreads 
 Cuftards 
 
 Mackarel, &c a 
 Tongue and 
 Udder 
 Herb Soup 
 Green Goofe and 
 Peas 
 
 Trout boiled 
 
 ^ulpeton 
 
 Neck of Venifon 
 Mutton 
 Cutlets 
 
 SECOND COURSE. 
 
 Road Turkey 
 Apricot Tart 
 Jellies 
 
 Green Codlin Tart' 
 Road Pigeons 
 
 Blancmange 
 Fricaffee of Rabbits 
 Preferved Pippins 
 
 AUGUST. 
 
 FIRST COURSE. 
 
 Fillets of Pigeons 
 French Patty 
 Chickens 
 
 S E C 0 
 
 Marcaroni 
 Cheefecakes 
 Fricaffee of 
 Eels 
 
 Stewed Soals 
 Ham 
 
 Craw-fifh Soup 
 Fillet of Veal 
 Whitings 
 
 N D C O U R 
 Road Ducks 
 Tartlet . 
 Jellies 
 Orange 
 Puffs 
 Leveret 
 
 Turkey a-ladaube 
 Petit Patties 
 Roaded Ox-Palates 
 
 5 E. 
 
 Fillets of Soals 
 Apple Pie 
 Fricaffee pf 
 Sweetbreads 
 
 Chickens 
 Pigeon Pie 
 Harricoof Mutton 
 
 SEPTEMBER. 
 
 FIRST COURSE. 
 Difh of Fifh 
 Chine of Lamb 
 Gravy Soup 
 Road Beef 
 Di(h of Fidi 
 
 Veal Collops 
 Almond Tart 
 Ham 
 
 SECOND COURSE. 
 
 Peas 
 
 Sweetbreads 
 
 Craw-filh 
 
 Wild Fowls 
 Damfon Tarts 
 Tart de Moi 
 Fritters Royal 
 Partridges 
 
 3B? 
 
 Ragooed Lobders 
 Fried Piths 
 Fried Artichokes 
 
 OCTOBER, 
 
-COURSES. 
 
 OCTOBER. 
 
 FIRST COURSE. 
 
 Cod and Oyfter Sauce 
 Jugged Neck of Veal 
 
 Hare d-Ia-braife 
 
 French Almond 
 
 Patty Soup 
 
 Chickens Tongue and Udder 
 
 Broiled Salmon 
 
 Small 
 Puddings 
 Fillet of Beef 
 larded and roaftedt 
 Fowls marinaded 
 
 Stewed Pears 
 Roaft Lobflers 
 White Fricaffee 
 
 SECOND COURSE. 
 
 Pheafant 
 
 Apple Tarts Mufhrooms 
 
 Jellies Oyfter Loaves 
 
 Cuftards Pippins 
 
 Turkey 
 
 NOVEMBER. 
 
 Veal Cutlets 
 Two Chickens 
 and Brocoli 
 Beef Collops 
 
 FIRST C 0 U R 
 Difh of Fifh 
 Roafted Turkey 
 Vermicelli 
 Soup 
 
 Chine of Pork 
 Difh of Fifh 
 
 5 E. 
 
 Sheeps Rumps 
 Oyfter Loaves 
 Blancmange 
 
 SECOND C O U R 
 Woodcocks 
 Apple Puffs 
 
 Vermicelli Pie 
 Lemon Tart 
 Hare 
 
 Ox Palates 
 Leg of Lamb 
 and Spinach 
 Harrico 
 
 5 E. 
 
 Difh of Jelly 
 Ragooed Lobflers 
 Lambs Ear* 
 
 D E 
 FIR 
 
 C E M B E R. 
 
 Chickens 
 Almond Puddings 
 Fillet of Pork 
 with fharp Sauce 
 
 S E 
 
 T COURSE. 
 
 Cod’s Head 
 
 Stewed Beef Fricando of Veal 
 
 Soup Sante Calves Feet Pie 
 
 Chine of , <-r 
 
 Lamb _ ' r °^ 
 
 Soals fried and boiled 
 
 C 0 N D COURSE. 
 
 Wild Fowls 
 
 Orange Puffs Sturgeon 
 
 Jellies Savoury Cake 
 
 Tartlets Mufhrooms 
 
 Partridges 
 
 All Rinds of Garden fufffwtablc to your Meat, &c. Jhould be fenl 
 up inyourfirft Courfe , and all your Sauce in Boats or Bafotts, to anfiver 
 each other at the Corners. 
 
 Suppers 
 
 Lambs Fry 
 Petit Patties 
 Prawns 
 
 * 
 
 4 
 
SUPPERS. 
 
 381 
 
 Suppers for fmall Companies comprifed of four Articles. 
 
 Radices ' 
 
 Minced Veal 
 Pat of Butter in a Glafs 
 
 Peached Eggs on a Toaft. x 
 
 Hafhed Mutton 
 
 Anchovy and Butter Pickles 
 
 Scolloped or roafted Potatoes 
 
 Sliced Ham 
 
 Maintenons 
 Rabbit roafted 
 
 Tart 
 
 Boiled Chicken 
 Cold Beef or Mutton 
 diced 
 
 Scolloped Oyfters 
 
 Pickles 
 
 Boiled Tripe 
 
 Bologna Saufages diced Pat of Butter in a Gkifs 
 
 Hafhed Hare 
 
 Bifcuits 
 
 Gudgeons fried 
 
 Rafped Beef, and a Pat of 
 Butter in the middle 
 Duck roafted 
 
 Roafted Chicken 
 
 Potted Beef 
 
 Chefee cakes 
 
 Saufages, with Eggs poached 
 
 Tongue diced 
 
 Whitings broiled 
 
 Calf’s Heart 
 Veal Cutlet 
 
 Bifcuits 
 
 Tart 
 
 Radidies, and Butter 
 in the middle 
 
 Afparagus 
 
 Suppers 
 
SUPPERS. 
 
 382 
 
 Suppers fr Jmall Companies compriftd of five Articles . 
 
 Scotch Collops 
 Potted Pigeon Saliad 
 
 Peas 
 
 Eds broiled or boiled 
 Butter fpun Tart 
 
 Sweetbread roafted 
 
 Ha (bed Veal 
 
 Anchovies and Butter Plain Fritters 
 
 Teal roafted 
 
 Pigeons roafted 
 
 Prawns Tart Cold Mutton fliced 
 
 Afparagus 
 
 As a very material and neceffary Improvement to the 
 two Courfes here laid down for each Month in the Tear , 
 the Reader is referred to the annexed Plates , in one of 
 which is the Reprefentation of one Courfe for a Family 
 Entertainment.—Another Plate reprejents two Courfes y 
 conjifing of ten Difhes each.—In two other Plates are 
 dfplayed a grand and fplendid Entertainment , in two 
 Courfes , confijling of twenty-five Difhes each. By thefe 
 Reprefentations , the Hoifekeeper is clearly directed in what 
 manner the Table fhould be decorated , and in what Propor¬ 
 tion , either for fmall , middling , or capital Entertain¬ 
 ments.—It is to be obferved that a fricl attention is not to 
 be paid to the refpechve articles that form thefe Courfes y as 
 they are to be varied according to the productions of the 
 different feafons y and the tafe and ingenuity of the Cook .— 
 Obferve likewfc, that the firf Courfe fhould confifl of 
 Soups y Boiled Poultry , Ffh y and Boiled Meats y and the 
 fecond Courfe of different kinds of Game y high-feafoned 
 Difhes y TartSy Jellies , &c. When a third Courfe is 
 brought on the table y it is to be confidered rather as a de- 
 fert, it ufually confijling only of Fruits] and various kinds 
 of ornamental Paflry. 
 
 Lobfter 
 
 Radifhes 
 
 Pickles 
 
 SUPPLEMENT. 
 
[383] 
 
 SUPPLEMENT. 
 
 SECT. I. 
 
 Directions for preferving various ncceffary Articles for the TJfe of 
 thofe in a Maritime Employ , and particularly for fuch as go long 
 Voyages. 
 
 To preferve Dripping. 
 
 T HIS is one, among many other ufeful articles at fea, and 
 in order that it may properly keep for that purpofe, it 
 muft be made in the following manner : Take fix pounds of 
 good beef dripping, boil it in iome foft water, (train it into a 
 pan, and let it Hand till it is cold. Then take off the hard fat 
 and fcrape off the gravy u r hich flicks to the infide. Do this 
 eight times, and when it is cold and hard take it off clean from 
 the water, and put into a large- faucepan, with fix bay-leaves, 
 twelve cloves, half a pound of fait, and a quarter of a pound 
 of whole pepper. Let the fat be all melted, and juft hot enough 
 to (train through a fieve into a ftone-pot. Then let it ftand 
 till it is quite cold, and cover it up. In this manner you may 
 do what quantity you pleafe. It is a very good maxim to keep 
 the pot upfide down, to prevent its being deftroyed by the rats. 
 It will keep good any voyage, and make as fine puff-pafte cruft 
 as any butter whatever. 
 
 An excellent Fiffjfauce for fhort Voyages. 
 
 TAKE twenty-four anchovies, bone them, and then chop 
 them very fmall. Put to them ten fhalots cut fine, a handful 
 of fcraped horfe-radifh, a quarter of an ounce of mace, a 
 quart of white, wine; a pint of water, and the fame quantity of" 
 red wine; a lemon cut into dices, * naif a pint of anchovy- 
 liquor, twelve cloves, and the fame number of pepper-corns. 
 Boil them together till it comes to a quart, then (train it off, and 
 keep it in a cold dry place. Two (poonfuls of it will be fuffi- 
 cient for a pound of butter. It is a pretty fauce for boiled fowls, 
 and many other things, or in the room of gravy, lowering it 
 with hot water, and thickening it with a piece of butter, rolled 
 in flour. 
 
 Catchup 
 
 IS another very ufeful article for perfons to take with them 
 to fea, and if it is made in the following manner, it will keep 
 twenty years. Take a gallon of (trong (tale beer, a pound of 
 anchovies walhed from the pickle, the fame quantity of (halots 
 peeled, half an ounce of mace, half an ounce of cloves, a quar- 
 2 ter 
 
384 SUPPLEMENT. 
 
 ter of an ounce of whole pepper, three or four large races of 
 ginger, and too quarts of large mufhroom flaps rubbed to pieces. 
 Cover all this clofe, and let it fimmer till it is half wafted. 
 Then drain it through a flannel bag, let it ftand till it is quite 
 cold, and then bottle it. This may be carried to any part of 
 the world, and a fpoonful of it to a pound of frefh butter melted 
 will make a fine fifli-fauce, or will fupply the place of gravy 
 fauce. The ftronger and ftaler the beer, the better will be the 
 catchup. 
 
 Pickled Mu/hrooms. 
 
 ARE like wife very ufeful for captains of fhips to take with 
 them to fea *, and muft be prepared for that purpofe in the 
 following manner: Wafh your mufhrooms clean with a piece 
 of flannel dipped in fait and water, put them into a faUcepan, 
 and throw a little fait over them. Let them boil up three times 
 in their own liquor, then throw them into a fieve to drain, and 
 fpread them on a clean cloth. Let them lie till they are cold, 
 then put them into wide-mouthed bottles, with a good deal of 
 whole mace, a little nutmeg diced, and a few cloves. Boil 
 fome fugar-vinegar with a good deal of whole pepper, fome 
 races of ginger, and two or three bay-leaves. Let it boil a 
 few minutes, then ftrain it, and when it is cold, put it on, and 
 fill the bottles with mutton fat dried. Cork them well, firft 
 tie a bladder, then a leather over them, and keep them down 
 clofe in as cool a place as you can. 
 
 Mufhrooms may likewife be prepared for fea ufe without 
 pickling them, in the following manner: Take a quantity of 
 large mufhrooms, peel them, and fcrape out the iniides. Then 
 put them into the faucepan, throw a little fait over them, and 
 let them boil i*n their own liquor. Then throw them into 
 a fieve to drain, lay them on tin plates, and fet them in a 
 cool oven. Repeat this often, till they are perfectly dry, then 
 put them into a clean ftone jar, tie them down tight, and keep 
 them in a dry place. They will keep a great while, and eat 
 and look as well truffles. 
 
 DireBians for Keeping and Dreffmg dryed Fife, 
 
 MOST kinds of fiflx, except ftock-fifh, are either faked or 
 dried in the fun, as the moft common way, or in preparing- 
 kilns, and fornetimes by the lmoak of wood-fires in chimney- 
 corners, and, in either cafe, requires being foftened and frefhen- 
 cd in proportion to their bulk, their nature, or drynefs. The 
 very dry for?, as bacaleo, cod-fifh, or whiting, and fuch like, 
 (hould be fteeped in luke-warm milk and water, and the fteep- 
 ing kept as nearly as po(Able to an equal degree of heat.—The 
 larged fill; fhould bje fteeped twelve hours; the fmall, as whi¬ 
 tings. 
 
SUPPLEMENT. 385 
 
 tings, Sec. about two hours. The cod muft 'therefore be laid 
 to deep in the evening ; the whitings, Sec. in the morning of 
 the day they are to be dtefied.—After the time of deeping they 
 are to be taken out and hung up by the tails until they are dreffed. 
 The reafon of hanging them up is, that they foften equally as 
 in the deeping, without extracting too much of the relifh, 
 which would make them infipid. When thus prepared, the 
 fmall fifh, as whitings, tufk, and fuch like, muft be floured 
 and laid on the gridiron, arid when a little hardened on the 
 one fide, mult be turned and balled with oil upon a feather; 
 and when baited on both Tides, and heated through, take them 
 up, always oblerving, that as fweet-oil-- fupplies and fupples 
 the fifli with a kind of artificial juices, fo the fire draws out 
 thofe juices, and hardens them. Be careful, therefore, not 
 to let them broil too long ; but no time can be preferibed, be- 
 caufe of the difference of fires, and various fizes of the fifh., 
 A clear charcoal fire is much the belt, and the fifh kept at a 
 good diftance to broil gradually.—The bed way to know when 
 the fifh are enough, is, they will fwell a little in the balling, 
 and you mufl not let them fall again. Thofe that like fweet- 
 oil, the bed fauce is oil, vinegar, and mudard, beat to a con¬ 
 fidence, and ferved up in faucers. 
 
 If your fifh is boiled, as thofe of a large fort ufually are, it 
 fhould be in milk and water, but not properly to fay boiled, as 
 it fhould only jud fimmer over an equal fire; in which way, 
 half an hour will do the larged fifh, and five minutes the 
 fmalled. Some people broil both forts after fimmering, and 
 fome pick them to pieces, and then tofs them up in a pan with 
 fried onions and apples. They are either way very good, and 
 the .choice depends on the weak or drong domach of the eaters. 
 
 Dried Salmon mud be managed in a different manner; for 
 though a large fifh, it does not require more deeping than a 
 whiting, and fhould be moderately peppered when laid on the 
 gridiron. 
 
 Dried Herrings fhould be deeped the like time as a whiting, 
 in fmall beer indead of milk and water; and to which, as to 
 all kinds of broiled falt-fifn, fweet-oil, will al ways be found the 
 bell bading, and no ways affeCl even the delicacy of thofe who 
 do not love it. 
 
 S E C T. II. 
 
 DIRECTIONS fob. making different kinds of 
 
 BREAD. -o. 
 
 IN the execution of this bufinefs, one very material confi- 
 deration is, the proper condruClion of your oven, which fhould 
 be built round, and not lower from the roof than twenty inches,- 
 
 X 3 C nor 
 
36 3 S U PL EM ENT. 
 
 nor higher than twenty-four inches. The mouth fhould be 
 fmall, with an iron door to fhut quite clofe; by which means, 
 lefs fire will be required, it will heat quicker than a long and 
 high-roofed oven, and bake every thing better. 
 
 To make Bread the London JVay. 
 
 PUT a bufhel of good flour, ground about five or fix weeks, 
 into one end of your trough, and make a hole in the middle. 
 Take nine quarts of warm water (called by the bakers liquor) 
 and mix it with one quart of good yeaft; put it into the flour, 
 and ftir it well with your hands till it is tough. Let it lay till 
 it rifes as high as it will go, which will be in about an hour 
 and twenty minutes. Be careful to watch it when it comes to 
 its height, and do not let it fall. Then make up your dough 
 with eight quarts more of warm liquor, and one pound of fait; 
 work it well up with your hands, and then cover it with a 
 coarfe doth, or a fack. Then put your fire into the oven, and 
 by the time it is properly heated, the dough will be ready. 
 Then make your loaves.of about five pounds each, fweep out 
 your oven clean, put in your loaves, {hut your oven up clofe, and 
 two hours and a half will bake them.—Remember, that in fum- 
 mer time your liquor muft be juft blood-warm; in winter, a little 
 warmer ; and in hard frofty weather as hot as you can bear 
 your hand in it, but not fo hot as to fcald the yeaft, for fhould 
 that be tire cafe, the whole batch of bread will be fpoiled. A 
 larger or fmaller quantity may be made in proportion to the 
 rules here laid down. 
 
 To make Leaven Bread. 
 
 TAKE a lump of dough, about two pounds, of your laft 
 making, which has been made with yeaft, keep it in a wooden 
 veflel, and cover it well with' flour. The night before you 
 intend to bake, put this (which is your leaven) into a peck of 
 flour, and work them well together with warm liquor. Let it 
 lie in a dry wooden veflel, well covered with a iinen cloth, a 
 blanket over the cloth, and keep it in a warm place. This 
 dough,' kept warm, will rife again the next morning, and will 
 be fuflicient to mix with two or three bufhels of flour, being 
 worked up with warm liquor, and a pound of fait to each 
 bufhel of flour. When it is well w r orked, and thoroughly 
 mixed with all the flour, let it be well covered with the linen 
 and blanket, until you find it rife ; then knead it well, and 
 work it up into loaves and bricks, making the loaves broad, 
 and not fo thick and high as is done for bread made with yeaft. 
 Then put them into the oven, and bake them as before direct¬ 
 ed.—Always keep by you two pounds of the dough of your 
 laft baking, well covered with flour, to make leaven to ferve 
 
SUPLEMENT. 38^ 
 
 from one baking-day to another. The more leaven is put to 
 the flour, the lighter and more fpungy the bread will be; and 
 the frefher the leaven the fweeter it will be. 
 
 To make French Bread. 
 
 LAY at one end of your trough half a bufhel of the befl 
 white flour, and make a hole in the middle of it. Mix a pint 
 of good fmall beer yeafl with three quarts of warm- liquor, put 
 it in, and mix it up well till it is tough; put a flannel over it, 
 and let it rife as high as it will. When it is at the height, 
 take fix quarts of fkimmed milk blood warm (the bluer the bet¬ 
 ter, provided it is fweet) and a pound of fait. Inflead of 
 working it with your hands, as you would dough for Englifh 
 bread, put the ends of your fingers together, and work it over 
 your hands till it is quite weak and ropey ; then cover it over 
 with a flannel, put your fire into the oven, and make it very hot. 
 Obferve, that when you take the dough out of the trough, you 
 ufe your hands as before, or elfe you will not get it out till it 
 falls when it will be good for nothing. Lay it on the drefler, 
 and inflead of a common knife, have one made like a chopping- 
 knife to cut it with ; then make it up into bricks or rolls as you 
 think proper. The bricks will take an hour and a half baking, 
 and the rolls half an hour. Then draw them out, and either 
 rafp them with a rafp, or chip them with a knife, but the for¬ 
 mer is the mofl convenient, and is done with the greateft ex¬ 
 pedition. When you work it up with the fecond liquor, you 
 may, if you pleafe, break in two ounces of butter. 
 
 To make Muffins. 
 
 PUT into your trough a bufhel of fine white flour. Then 
 take three gallons of milk-warm liquor, and mix in a quart of 
 mild ale, or good fmall beer yeaft, and half a pound of fait. 
 Stir it well about for a quarter of an hour, then ftrain it into 
 the flour, and mix you dough as light as you can. Let it lie 
 one hour to rife, then with your hand roll it up, and pull it in¬ 
 to little pieces about the fize of a walnut. Roll them like a 
 ball, lay them on a table, and as faft as you do them, put a 
 flannel over them, and be fure to keep your dough covered. 
 When you have rolled out all your dough, begin to bake the 
 firft, and by that time they will be fpread out in the right 
 form. Lay them on your plate, and as the bottom fide begins 
 to change colour, turn them on the other- Be careful that the 
 middle of your plate is not too hot; if it is, put a brick-bat or 
 two in the middle of the fire to flacken the heat. 
 
 Oat-cakes are made the fame way, only ufe fine fifted oatmeal 
 inflead of flour, and two gallons of water inflead of three. 
 When you pull the dough to pieces, roll them out with a good 
 
 3 C % deal 
 
S 83 SUPLEMENT. 
 
 deal of flour, cover them with a piece of flannel, and they 
 will rife to a proper thicknefs. If you find them too big, or 
 too little, you muft roll your dough accordingly. 
 
 When you ufe either muffins or oat-cakes, toaft them on 
 both fides very crifp, but do not burn them; then pull them 
 open with your fingers, and they will look like a honey-comb. 
 Put in as much butter as you chul'e ; then clap them toge¬ 
 ther again, and put them before the fire. When you think 
 the butter is melted turn them, that both fides may be buttered 
 alike; but do not touch them with a knife, either to i'pread 
 the butter, or cut them open ; if you do they will be very heavy. 
 When they are buttered cut them acrofs with a knife. 
 
 SECT. III. 
 
 On the Bfeeding , Rearing , and Management of different Kinds 
 
 of Poultry , isfc. 
 
 THIS is a fubje£t which is certainly very necefiary as a pro¬ 
 per appendage to our Work. Numbers of families refide in 
 the country only for a temporary time; but there are many 
 others who totally retire, in order to exchange the buftle and 
 noife of the town for the more tranquil ftate of the country. 
 In fuch families as thefe, a proper knowledge of the fubject of 
 this fedtion muft be exceeding ufeful to the houfekeeper, as (he 
 will at all times be provided with the means of furniffiing the 
 table with fome of the principal delicacies adapted for fatis- 
 fadtory repaid. We fhall begin the fubjett with 
 
 The Breeding , Rearing , and Management of Fowls. 
 
 IN the commencement of this bufinefs, the firft confedera¬ 
 tion muft be a proper choice of thofe fowls which are belt cal¬ 
 culated for breeding. Thofe of a middling age are the mold 
 proper for fitting, and the younger for laying. Six hens to a 
 cock is a good proportion. In order to make them familiar, 
 feed them at particular hours, and always in one place. 
 
 The heft age to fet a hen is from two years old to five, and 
 the belt month February, though any month is good between 
 that and Michaelmas. A hen fits twenty days, whereas geefe 
 ducks, and turkeys, fit thirty. 
 
 In the mixture of fowls for breeding, the nature of the hen 
 fhould be as nearly equal as poffible with that of the cock. She 
 fliould be vigilant and induftrious both for herfelf and chickens. 
 In fize, the biggeft and largeft are the befl, and they mull be 
 in every refpeft proportioned to the cock, only inftead of a 
 comb, fire Ihould have upon her crown a high tuft of feathers. 
 
'x, 
 
 SUPPLEMENT. 3 3q 
 
 She (liould have ilrong claws ; but it will be better if fhe has 
 no hinder claws, becaufe fuch are very fubjeft to break their 
 eggs. Hens that crow are neither good breeders nor good 
 layers. Never chufe a hen that is fat, as fhe will neither anfwer 
 the purpofe of fitting or laying. If fhe is fet, fire will forfake 
 her nefl; the eggs fhe lays will be without fhells, and fhe will 
 grow flothful and indolent. 
 
 The bell eggs are thofe laid when the hens are a year 
 and a half or two years old, at which time, if you would have 
 large eggs, give them plenty of vidluals,. and fometimes oats, 
 with fennegreek to heat them. To prevent your hens eating 
 their own eggs, which they fometimes will, lay a piece of chalk 
 fhaped like an egg in their way, at which they will often be 
 pecking, and thus finding themfelves difappointed, they'will not 
 afterwards attempt it. When you find your hens inclinable to 
 fet, which you will know by their clucking, do not difappoint 
 them, nor put more than ten eggs under each. It is a common 
 notion that a hen fhould always be fet with an old egg, as nine, 
 eleven, or thirteen, but this is mere whim. 
 
 Hens that have fpurs often break their eggs, and inftead of 
 of hatching them, will fometimes eat them. Tlrefe muft 
 be fcoured, as well as thofe that fcratch and crow like a cock ; 
 firft by plucking the great quills out of their wings, and then by 
 feeding them with millet, barley and pafle, cut into fmall 
 pieces, pounded acorns and bran, with pottage or crumbs of 
 wheat bread fleeped in water. They mull be kept in a clofe 
 place, and their feathers muft be plucked from their heads, 
 thighs, and rumps. 
 
 In order that the chickens may be large, and moft kindly, the 
 belt time to fet a hen is in the month of February, when the 
 moon has turned the full, that fhe may difclofe the chickens in 
 the increafe of the next new moon ; for one brood of this 
 motith, is preferable to that of any other. Hens however may 
 fet from this time to October, and then have good chickens, but 
 not after that lime. 
 
 If you fet a hen upon the eggs of ducks, geefe or turkies, 
 you muft fet them nine days before you put her own eggs to 
 her. 
 
 Before you put the eggs under the hen, it will be neceffary to 
 make fome particular mark on the fide of them, and to obferve 
 whether fhe turns them from that to the other : if fhe does not, 
 then take an opportunity, when fhe is from them, to turn them 
 yourfelf. Be careful the eggs you fet her with are new, which 
 maybe known by their being heavy, full and clear; neither 
 fhould you chufe the largeft, for they have often two yolks ; and 
 though fome are of opinion that fuch will produce two chickens, 
 
 it 
 
39 o SUPPLEMENT. , 
 
 it, commonly proves a midakej but if they do, the production 
 is generally unnatural. 
 
 The greated care mult be taken that the hen is not didurbed 
 while fhe is fitting, as it will caufe her entirely to forfake her 
 nett. To prevent this be careful to place her meat and water 
 near her during the time fhe is fitting, that her eggs may not 
 cool jvhile fhe is abfent from her ned, dir up the draw gently, 
 make it foft, and lay the eggs in the fame order you found 
 them. It will not be amifs if you perfume her neft with rofe- 
 mary or brimitone. Be careful the cock does not come at the 
 eggs, and fet upon them, as he will not only be fubjedt to break 
 them, but it will caufe the hen to diflike her neft 
 
 Your hen-houfe mult be large and fpacious, with a high roof, 
 and drong walls. Let there be windows on the ead-fide, that 
 they may enjoy the benefit of the riling fun ; and thefe mull 
 be drongly lathed and clofe fhut. Upwards, and round about 
 the infide of the walls, upon the ground, fhouid be made large 
 pens, three feet high, for geefe, ducks and large fowls to fet in, 
 and near the roof of the houfe fhouid be long perches, reaching 
 from one fide to the other. At one fide of the houfe, at the 
 darked part, over the ground pens, fhouid be placed feveral 
 fmall hampers of draw, not only for the ufe of the fowls to 
 make their neds, but likewife for them to lay their eggs in : but 
 when they fit to hatch chickens, let them fit on the ground. 
 There mud be pegs duck in different parts of the walls for the 
 convenience of the fowls climbing to their perches. 
 
 The floor of the hen-houfe, mud not be paved, but made of 
 earth and quite fmooth. Let the fmaller fowl have a hole 
 made at one end to go in and come out at when they pleafe, 
 otherwife they will feek out rood in other places; but for 
 larger fowl you may open the door every night and morning. 
 
 The mod advantageous fituation for the hen-houfe, is near 
 fome kitchen, brew-houfe, or bake-houfe, where it may re¬ 
 ceive a didant warmth from the fire, and be fcented with 
 fmoke, which to pullets is not only wholefome, but agreeable. 
 
 Great care mud be taken to keep your hen-houfe, free from 
 vermin, and contrive your perches fo as not to be over each 
 other. Wherever poultry is kept, various kinds of vermin 
 will naturally come ; for which reafon it will be proper to fow 
 wormwood and rice about your hen-hoofe. You may alfo boil 
 wormwood, and fprinkle the floor with the liquor, which will 
 not only contribute to keep away vermin, but alfo add much to 
 the health of your poultry. 
 
 When your chickens are hatched, if any are weaker than the 
 red, wrap them in wool, and let them receive the benefit of the 
 fire ; it will be alfo neceflary to perfume them with rofemary. 
 
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S U P P LEM ENT. 391 
 
 The chickens fil'd hatched, may be kept in a deepifii fieve till 
 the red are difelofed, for they will not eat for two days. Some 
 ifiells being harder than others, they will require fo much more 
 time in opening ; but unlefs the chickens are weak, or the hen 
 unkind, it will not be improper to let them continue under her, 
 as they will thereby receive the greater nourifhment. 
 
 After they have been hatched two days, give them very fmall 
 oatmeal, fome dry, and fome deeped in milk, or elfe crumbs of 
 fine white bread. When they have gained drength, you may- 
 give them cruds, cheefe-parings, white bread, v cruds foaked in 
 milk, barley-meal, or wheaten-bread fcalded, or the like foft 
 meat that is fmall, and will be eafily digeded. They mud be 
 kept in the houfe a fortnight, before they are differed to go 
 abroad with the hen. Green chives chopped among the meat, 
 is very good, and will preferve them from the rye, or other 
 difeafes in the head. Be careful that their water is quite clean, 
 for if it is dirty, it will be apt to give them the pip. Neither 
 fhould you let them feed upon tares, darnel, or cockle, for thefe 
 are very dangerous to yonng ones; nor let them go into gardens 
 till they are fix weeks old. 
 
 Such chickens as you intend to cram mud be cooped up when 
 the hen has forfaken them. Cram them with dough made of 
 wheaten meal and milk, which dip in the latter, and thrud down 
 their throats *, but be careful they are not too large, as in that 
 cafe they may be choaked. 
 
 The method to be taken in order to fatten chickens is this: 
 Confine them in coops, and feed them with barley-meal. Put 
 a fmall quantity of‘brick-dud with their water, which will not 
 only give them an appetite to their meat, but will faciliate 
 their fattening. All fowls and other birds, have too domachs ; 
 the one is their crop, that foftens their food, and the other the 
 gizzard, that macerates it. In the lad are generally found fmall 
 dones and (harp bits of fand, which help to do that office, and 
 without them, or fomething of that kind, a fowl will be want¬ 
 ing of its appetite ; for the .gizzard cannot macerate or grind 
 the food fad enough to difeharge it from the crop without fuch 
 abidance, and therefore in this cafe the brick-dud thrown into 
 the water is very ufeful. 
 
 Hens are fubject to various difeafes, the mod principal of 
 which are the following : 
 
 Setting hens are fometimes troubled with lice and vermin; 
 for the cure of which, pound burnt cummin and dnphifagar, of 
 each equal quantities, mix it w r ith wine, and rub them with it, or 
 waffi them with a decodlion of wild lupines. 
 
 If hens are troubled with a loofenefs, mix a handful of barley- 
 mealj and as much wax, in fome wine : make it into a mefs 
 
 4 and 
 
I 
 
 392 SUPPLEMENT. 
 
 and give it them in the morning before they have any other 
 meat, or elfe let them drink a deco£tion of quinces or apples. 
 
 It fometimes happens, that hens, by laying too many eggs, 
 or fitting too long, exhauft their flrength and languifh. To 
 remedy this, take the white of an egg, and roaft it till it appears 
 burnt; mix this with an equal quantity of raifins alfo burnt, and 
 give it them the firft thing in the morning. 
 
 Fowls are very fubjecSl: to a diforder called the pip, which ■ 
 arifes from a white thin fcale growing on the tip of the tongue, 
 and will prevent their feeding. This is eafily difcerned, and 
 generally proceeds from drinking puddle water, or want of wa¬ 
 ter, or eating filthy food. This, however, may be cured, by 
 pulling off the fcale with your nail, and then rubbing the 
 tongue with fait. 
 
 Ducks. 
 
 DUCKS ufually begin to lay in February; nnd if your 
 gardener is diligent in picking up fnails, grubs, caterpillars, 
 worms, and other infedts and lay them in one place, it will 
 make your ducks familiar, and is the bell food, for change, they 
 can have. If parfley is fovvn about the ponds they ufe, it will 
 give their flefh an agreeable tafte ; and be fure always to have 
 one certain place for them to retire to at night. Partition off 
 their nefts, and make them as near the water as pofiible, always 
 feed them there, as it will make them love home: for ducks are 
 of a very rambling nature. 
 
 Take away their eggs every day till you find them inclined to 
 fit, and then leave them in the place where they have laid them. 
 Little attendance is required while they fit, except to let them 
 have fome barley or offal corn and water near them, that they 
 may not hurt their eggs by ftraggling from the neft. 
 
 In winter it is much better to fet a hen upon the duck eggs, 
 than any kind of duck whatever, becaufe the latter will leave 
 them, when hatched, too foon to the water, where, if the we¬ 
 ther is cold, in all probability fome of them will be loft. The 
 number of eggs to fet a duck on is about thirteen. The hen 
 will cover as many of thefe as her own, and will bring them up 
 as carefully. 
 
 If the weather is tolerably good at the time the ducklings are 
 hatched, they will require very little attendance; but, if they 
 happen to be produced in a wet feafon, it will be necefiary to 
 take them under cover, efpecially on nights; for though the 
 duck naturally loves water, it requires the affiftance of its fea¬ 
 thers, and, till grown, is eafily hurt by the wet. 
 
 The method of fattening ducks is exaftly the fame, let their 
 age be what it will. They mufl be put into a retired place, and 
 kept in a pen, 3vhere they muft have plenty of corn and water. 
 
 Any 
 
SUPPLEMENT. 393 
 
 Any fort of corn will do, and with this fingle direction they 
 will fatten themfelves in a fortnight or three weeks. 
 
 Geefe . 
 
 THE keeping of geefe is attended with very little expence. 
 They will live upon commons, or any fort of pafture ; and 
 need little care or attendance, except their having plenty of 
 water. 
 
 In chufing geefe, the largelt are reckoned the bell; but there 
 is a fort of Spanilh geefe that are much better layers and breed¬ 
 ers than the Englifh, efpecially if their eggs are hatched under 
 an Englilh goofe. It mult be obferved, that the colour of 
 them fhould be white or grey, for pyed are not fo profitable, 
 and the darker-coloured are Hill worfe. 
 
 It may be eafily known when geefe want to lay by their car¬ 
 rying ftraw in their mouths ; and when they will fit, by their 
 continuing on their nefts after they have laid. The proper 
 time for laying is the fpring, and the earlier the better, be- 
 caufe of their having a fecond brood. A goofe fits in general 
 thirty days; but if the weather is fair and warm, fhe will 
 hatch three or four days fooner. During the time of her fit¬ 
 ting you mull be careful, when (he rifes from her neft, to give 
 her meat, as lhag oats, and bran fcalded,. and let her have the 
 opportunity of bathing in water. 
 
 When the goflings are hatched, you mull keep them in the 
 houfe ten or twelve days, and feed them with curds, barley- 
 meal, bran, See. After they have got ftrength, let them go 
 abroad for three or four hours in a day, and take them in again, 
 till they are big enough to take care of. themfelves. One gan¬ 
 der is a proper portion for five geefe. 
 
 To fatten green geefe, you mull {hut them up when they are 
 about a month old, and they will be fat in about a month more. 
 Be fure to let them have always by them fome fine hay in a 
 fmall rack, which will mitch haften their fattening. But for 
 fattening older geefe, it is commonly done when they are about 
 fix months old, in or after harveft, when they have been in 
 the ftubble fields, from which food fome kill them; but thofe 
 who are defirous of having them very fat, fhut them up for a 
 fortnight or three weeks, and feed them with oats, fplit beans, 
 barley-meal, or ground malt mixed with milk. They will 
 likewife feed on, and fatten well, with carrots cut fmall : or 
 if you give them rye before or about Midfummer (which is 
 commonly about their fickly time) it will ftrengthen them, 
 and keep them in health. 
 
 It is to be obferved, that all water-fowl, while fattening, 
 afually fit with their bills on their rumps, from whence they 
 XI. 3 D fudk 
 
39 4 SUPPLEMENT. 
 
 fuck out moft offtheir moiftnre and fatnefs, at a fmall bunch 
 of feathers which ftand upright on their ruthps, and is always 
 moilt. But if you cut this clofe away, it will make them fat 
 in lefs time, and with lefs meat, than otherwife. 
 
 Turkies. 
 
 TURKIES are birds of a very tender Conftitution, and, 
 while young, muft be carefully watched and kept warm ; for 
 the hens are fo negligent, that while they have one to follow 
 them, they will never take any care of the reft. 
 
 Turkies are great feeders of corn, and if kept on it will con- 
 fume a prodigious quantity ; but if left to their own liberty 
 when grown up, they will get their own living by feeding on 
 herbs, feeds, &c. As they are very apt to ftraggle, they will 
 often lay their eggs in fecret places, and therefore they muft 
 be often watched, and compelled to lay at home. They begin 
 to lay in March, and will fit in April; but they fhould not be 
 fullered to fit on more than twelve eggs at moft. 
 
 When they have hatched their brood (which will be in the 
 time between twenty-five and thirty days) you muft be particu¬ 
 larly careful to keep the young ones warm, for the leaft cold 
 will kill them. They muft be fed either with curds, or green 
 frefh chcefe cut in fmall bits ; and let their drink be new milk, 
 or milk and water. Or you may give them oatmeal and milk 
 boiled thick together, into which put a little wormwood chop¬ 
 ped fmall, and fometimes eggs boiled hard, and cut into little 
 pieces. They muft be fed often, for the hen will not take 
 much care of them ; and when they have. got fome ftrength 
 feed them abroad in a clofe walled place, from whence 
 they cannot ftray. You muft not let them out till the dew is 
 off the grafs, taking care to have them in again before night, 
 becaufe the dew is very prejudicial to their health. 
 
 When you fatten turkies, give them fodden barley or fod- 
 den oats for the firft fortnight, and for another fortnight cram 
 them in the following manner. Take a quantity of barley- 
 meal properly lifted, and mix it with new milk. Make it into 
 a good ftiff dough pafte ; then make it into long crams or rolls, 
 big in the middle, and fmall at both ends. Then wet them in 
 luke-vvarm milk, give the turkey a full gorge three times a day, 
 morning, noon and night, and in a fortnight it wall be as fat as 
 neceffary. 
 
 The eggs of turkies are not only reckoned very wholefome 
 in general, but they wall like wife greatly contribute to the re- 
 floring of decayed conftitutions. 
 
 Pigeons. 
 
 IF you are not already provided, the bell time to furnilh 
 yourfelf with pigeons is in the month of May or Auguft, be¬ 
 caufe at thofe times they are young, and in fine condition. 
 
 There 
 
SUPPLEMENT. 395 
 
 There are various forts of pigeons, fuch as carriers, pouters, 
 runts, tumblers, &c. but the two principal are, the tame and 
 dovecote. The former of thefe is no lefs valued for its beauty 
 than the largenefs of its body ; but the latter, which is the 
 kind ufually kept in dovecotes, and thence receives its name, is 
 fmaller, and lefs beautiful. 
 
 Tame pigeons generally produce but two young ones at a 
 brood ; but they make fome amends for the fmallnefs of the 
 number, by the frequency of their hatching; for, if well fed 
 and looked after they will have young ones twelve or thirteen 
 times in the year. In chufing them the beauty is generally 
 molt regarded; but care fhould be taking to pair them well, 
 becaufe, in this cafe, they will be the more firmly attached to 
 each other. 
 
 Particular care mull be taken to keep them clean, for they 
 difliice dirt, though they make a great deal of it. Their bell 
 food is tares, or white peafe, and they fhould have fome gravel 
 fcattered about their houfe, and clean water fet in different 
 places. A great deal of care muff be taken to preferve them 
 from vermin, and their neds from the darlings and other birds, 
 as the latter will fuck their eggs, and the former entirely de- 
 ftroy them. 
 
 The common, or dovecote pigeon, is a fort that not only 
 demands, but deferves very great attention ; and of this breed 
 is properly that which is called the common blue pigeon. This 
 has the advantage of many other kinds, in that it is hardier, 
 and will live in the mod fevere weather. But if the breed 
 fhould be too fmall, it may be mended, by putting in a few 
 tame pigeons of the mod common kind, and the lead con- 
 fpicuous in their colours, that the red may the better take to 
 them from their being more like themfelves. 
 
 The ringdove has been introduced into the dovecote, by fet- 
 ting the eggs under a common pigeon ; they will in this cafe 
 live, and take their chance among the others ; and they have 
 two advantages over them, the one in their largenefs, and the 
 other in their hardinefs, for they will live on any food, and 
 endure the mod fevere weather. 
 
 A proper proportion of the fexes fhould be obferved among 
 pigeons; for there is nothing fo hurtful as having , too many 
 cocks, efpecially if you keep the larger, or tame kind. An 
 abundance of cocks will thin the dovecote, for they will grow 
 quarrelfome, and beat others away, till, by degrees, a very 
 thriving dovecote flrall be, by this fingle midake, reduced to a 
 very poor condition. 
 
 The bed and mod eafy method of making a devecote is, to 
 build the wall with clay mixed with draw; they may be made 
 
 3 D 2 four 
 
39 6 SUPLEMENT. 
 
 four feet or more in thicknefs, and while they are wet, it is 
 eafy to cut holes in them with a cbiffel or other indrument. 
 But of whatever materials the cote is erected, it fhould be 
 white wafhed frequently on the outfide. Pigeons, as we have 
 already obferved, are cleanly birds; they love the appearance 
 of neatnefs, and, befides this, the colour renders the building 
 more confpicuous, 
 
 With refpe£t to the food for pigeons, exclufive of the peas 
 and tares already mentioned, barley is very proper, as it not 
 only ftrengthens them, but promotes their laying: buck-wheat 
 will likewife have the fame effects. In general, however, the 
 ccmmon pigeons in a dovecote take care of themfelves, and 
 need little food from their keeper. 
 
 Pigeons are very fond of fait, and therefore they fhould 
 have a large heap of clay laid near the dovecote, and let the 
 brine done with in the family be frequently beaten among it ; 
 or you may make a kind of mortar with lime, fand, clay, and 
 fait, which they will peck with great fatisfa£tion. When it is 
 thus made on purpofe for them, it is bell to make it thin, and 
 keep it fo by often mixing brine with it. 
 
 The ufe of fait is of much more advantage to pigeons than 
 merely the pleafing them, for nothing will recover them fo 
 readily from ficknefs ; a mixture of bay-falt and cummin-feed 
 being with them an univerfal remedy for mod difeafes. 
 
 Various methods have been ufed to make pigeons love their 
 habitation. Some have recommended the ufe of affafeetida, 
 and others of cummin-feed, for this purpofe; but the bed 
 method is, to keep up condantly the faded clay as before de- 
 feribed ; for it is what they love, and they will therefore day 
 where they can have it in plenty. 
 
 Pigeons are fometimes apt to be fcabby on the backs and 
 breads, which didemper will kill the young, and make the old 
 ones fo faint, that they cannot take their flights. In order to 
 cure this didemper, take a quartern of bay-falt, and as much 
 common-falts, a pound of fennel-feed, a pound of dill-feed, as 
 much cummin-feed, and an ounce or two of affafeetida, mix 
 all thefe together with a little wheat-flour, and fome fine 
 worked clay; when it is well beaten together, put it into two 
 pots, and bake them in an oven. When they are cold, lay 
 them longways on the dand or table in the dovehoufe, and the 
 pigeons, by pecking it, will be foon cured. 
 
 General Observations on 'Poultry. 
 
 MANY creatures are endowed with a ready difeernment to 
 fee what will turn to their own advantage and emolument; and 
 often difeover more fagacity than could be expelled. Thus 
 
 poultry 
 
SUPPLEMENT. 
 
 poultry have been often known to watch for waggons loaded 
 with wheat, and, running after them, pick up a number of 
 grains which are {haken from the (heaves by the motion of the 
 carriages. Thus when I have taken down my gun to (hoot 
 fparrows, my cats would generally run out before me, to be 
 ready to catch up the birds as they fell. 
 
 The earned and early propenfity of the feathered tribe to 
 rood on high is very obfervable; and difcovers a drong dread 
 imprefled on their fpirits refpe&ing vermin that may annoy 
 them on the ground, during the hours of darknefs. Hence 
 poultry, if left to themfelves and not houfed, will perch the 
 winter through on yew trees and fir-trees*, and turkies and 
 Guinea fowls, heavy as they are, get up into apple trees. Phea- 
 fants alfo in woods deep on trees to avoid foxes ; while pea¬ 
 fowls climb to the tops of the higheft trees round their owner’s 
 houfe for fecurity, let the weather be ever fo cold or blowing. 
 Partridges, indeed, rood on the ground, not having the fa¬ 
 culty of perching, but then they are equally apprehenfive of 
 danger; and fearing the approaches of pole-cats and doats, 
 they never trud themfelves to coverts ; but nedle together in 
 the middle of a large field, far removed from hedges and cop¬ 
 pices, which they love to haunt in the day, and where at that 
 feafon they can (kulk more fecure from the ravages of rapacious 
 birds, 
 
 As to ducks and geefe, their aukward fplay web-feet forbid 
 them to fettle on trees*, therefore, in the hours of darknefs 
 and danger, they betake themfelves to their own element, the 
 water, where amidd large lakes and pools, like (hips riding at 
 anchor, they float the whole night long in peace and fecurity. 
 
 Rabbits. 
 
 TAME rabbits are very fertile, bringing forth young every 
 month. As foon as the doe has kindled, (lie mud be put to 
 the buck, otherwile die will dedroy her young. The bed food 
 for them is the (weeted hay, oats and bran, mardimallows, 
 fowthidle, parfley, cabbage-leaves, clover-grafs, &c. always 
 frefli. You mud be careful to keep them exceeding clean, 
 otherwife they will not only poifon themfelves, but likewife 
 thofe that look after them. 
 
 SECT. IV. 
 
 MANAGEMENT of the DAIRY. 
 
 THIS is a bufinefs which’requires a great deal of care arid 
 attention ; and its productions are mod eflentially beneficial in 
 a family. Indeed this employment diould be principally con¬ 
 fined 
 
398 SUPPLEMENT. 
 
 fined to one perfon, to whom the following general obferva- 
 tions may not be unneceflary. 
 
 It mull be particularly remembered, that want of cleanlinefs 
 is no where fo unpardonable as in the dairy, where, indeed, 
 the fuccefs of every operation depends upon, and requires that 
 not only the utenfils, but the dreflers, {helves, walls and floor, 
 Ihould be kept exceeding clean and well aired ; and in hot 
 weather they fhould be frequently fluiced with clean cold 
 water. 
 
 Your cows {hould be milked at a regular hour; for the de¬ 
 tention of the milk not only tends to fpoil it, but keeps the 
 animal in violent pain. In fummer, the time of milking {hould 
 not be later than five in the evening, that they may have time 
 to fill their bags by morning, and their udders fhould be well 
 emptied at each milking. 
 
 In general cows require gentle treatment, efpecially if their 
 teats happen to be fore; for if roughly handled, they will not 
 only kick and wince, and become wild and ungovernable, but 
 even retain their udders half full of milk; in confequence of 
 which their bags get hard and ulcerous, or they lofe their milk 
 entirely till they calve again. 
 
 When the milk is brought into the dairy, it fhould be well 
 ftrained, and emptied into c^ean pans. White ware pans are 
 the mofl preferable, on account of their fuperior cleanlinefs; 
 the brown fort is very porous, and fcarce any fcalding will be 
 fufficient to cleanfe them thoroughly. 
 
 In the middle diftridl of the county of Somerfet, Mr. Bil- 
 lingfley, in his general view of Agriculture, has the following 
 remarks upon Dairy Management: 
 
 The cows of this diftridl being intended chiefly for the pur- 
 pofes of cheefe-making, the profit arifing is in proportion to 
 the quantity and quality of the milk ; fize is therefore not at¬ 
 tended to, but principal regard is paid to the breed whence 
 they fprung. The dairy men think it more profitable to have 
 a fmall breed well fed , than the belt breed in the world Jlarved ; 
 and the cow that gives milk the longeft. The time of calving 
 is from the beginning of February to Lady Day, and they take 
 great care to keep their cows well three weeks or a month be¬ 
 fore they calve; the milk will rife in proportion to the good- 
 nefs of their keeping. The calves (thofe few excepted which 
 are reared to keep up the flock) feldom live a month, and 
 cheefe-making begins in March, from which time it continues 
 till December. 
 
 Ths cheefe of this diftridl is much admired, particularly that 
 which is made in the parifhes of Meer and Chaddar. It is 
 principally purchafed by jobbers, and fent through the medium 
 
 of 
 
SUPPLEMENT. 399 
 
 of Weyhill, Gilefliiil, Reading, and other fairs, to the Lon¬ 
 don market, where it is fold under the name of double Glojler. 
 
 The calves which are reared are fed principally with cheefe- 
 whey, and in May they are turned to grafs, and left to ffiift 
 for themfelves : fome careful dairy-women have tried to in- 
 creafe their growth, by giving them whey after they are put to 
 grafs, but this plan is reprobated as doing more harm than 
 
 average produce of a dairy per day, in this diftri£l, may 
 be calculated at about three gallons per cow, from Lady Day 
 to Michaelmas, and from Michaelmas to Chriftmas one gallon 
 a cow per day. Cows are kept till they are fourteen or fifteen 
 years old, and when fatted they feldom get to a higher price 
 than feven or eight pounds. 
 
 A dairy-maid can manage twenty cows, fo far as relates to 
 the in-door work, and the grofs produce of a dairy frequently 
 averages twelve pounds per cow, and in fome particular in- 
 fiances fourteen pounds : but this can only be done when cheefe 
 is at the prefent enormous price. 
 
 On comparing the grazing with the dairy account, Mr. Bii- 
 lingfley makes it appear, that the dairy operation is more pro¬ 
 fitable than grazing; for the former amounts to 50s. per acre, 
 whereas the latter is only 28s. per acre. On account of popu¬ 
 lation, the dairy fyftem ought alfo to be preferred, as one 
 grazing farm of 200 acres would afford a comfortable livelihood 
 to four dairy families. 
 
 I am aware, fays he, that fhould thefe obfervations induce 
 an increafe of dairies, and confequently a more liberal fupply 
 of cheefe, fuch a declenfion in the price of that article might 
 take place, as would bring all things again on a level, and ad¬ 
 vance the grazier’s profit to an equality with that of the dairy¬ 
 man. ' ' 
 
 To male Butter. 
 
 BUTTER is an article more frequently ufed ia the art of 
 Cookery than any other whatever ; but to be wholefome it muff 
 be very frefh, and free from rancidity, otherwife it will hurt 
 digeflion, render it difficult and painful, and introduce much 
 acrimony into the blood. Some perfons have fuch delicate 
 ftomachs, that they are even affedled with thofe inconveniences 
 by frelh butter and milk. 
 
 When you have churned your butter, open the churn, and 
 with both hands gather it well together, take it out of the but¬ 
 ter milk, and lay it into- a very clean bowl, or earthen pan, and 
 if the butter is defigned to be ufed frelh, fill the pan with clear 
 water, and work the butter in it to and fro, till it is brought 
 to a firm confiftence of itfelf, without any moifture. When. 
 
 voa 
 
 good. 
 
 * The 
 
 4 
 
4 oo SUPPLEMENT. 
 
 you have done this, fcotch and flice it over with the point of a 
 knife, every way as thick as podible, in order to draw out the 
 fraallefl hair, bit of rag, {trainer, or any thing that may have 
 happened to fall into it. Then fpread it thin in a bowl, and 
 work it well together with fuch a quantity of fait as you think 
 fit, and then make it into forms agreeable to your own fancy. 
 
 It fometimes happens that a cow’s teats may have been 
 fcratched or wounded, which will occafion the milk to be foul 
 and corrupt. When this is the cafe, you fhould by no means 
 mix it with the fweet milk,'but give it to the pigs; and that 
 •which is taken to the dairy-houfe fhould remain in the pail till 
 it is nearly cold before it is drained, that is, if the weather be 
 warm ; but in frcudy weather it fhould be immediately drained, 
 and a fmall quantity of boiling water may be mixed with it, 
 which will caufe it to produce cream in abundance, and the 
 more fo if the pans have a large furface. 
 
 In the hot fummer months the cream fhould be fkimmed from 
 the milk before the dairy gets warm from the fun ; nor fhould 
 the milk at that feafon dand longer in the pans than twenty- 
 four hours, nor be Ikimmed in the evening till after fun-fet. In 
 winter milk may remain unfkimmed for thirty-fix and forty- 
 eight hours. The cream fhould be depofited in a deep pan, 
 which fhould be kept, during the dimmer, in the cooled part 
 of the dairy; or in a cool cellar, where a free air is admitted, 
 which is much better. If you have not an opportunity of 
 churning every day, fhift the cream daily into clean pans, which 
 will keep it cool. But you fhould never fail to churn at lead 
 twice in the week in hot weather ; and this work fhould be 
 done in a morning very early, taking care to fix the churn 
 where there is a free draught of air. If a pump-churn is ufed, 
 it may be plunged a foot deep into a tub of cold water, and 
 fhould remain there during the whole time of churning, which 
 will very much harden the butter. 
 
 Butter will require more working in winter, than in dimmer; 
 but it is to be remarked, and with great judice, that no perlon 
 whofe hand is warm by nature can make good butter. 
 
 Butter-milk (the milk which remains after the butter is com¬ 
 ing by churning) is edeemed an excellent food, in the fpring 
 efpecially; and is particularly recommended in hedlic fevers. 
 Some make curds of butter-milk, by pouring into it a quantity 
 of new milk hot. 
 
 To make Cheefe. 
 
 CHEESE differs in quality according as it is made from new 
 or Ikimmed milk, from the curd which feparates of itfelf upon 
 danding, or that which is more fpeedily produced by the addi¬ 
 tion of rennet, 
 
 • v ' la 
 
SUPPLEMENT. 401 
 
 In making cheefe, as foon as the milk is turned, drain the 
 whey carefully from the curd. Break the curd well with your 
 hands, and when it is equally broken, put it by a little at a 
 time, into the vat, carefully breaking it as you put it in. The 
 vat fhould be tilled an inch or more above the brim, that when 
 the whey is pre-fied out, it may not fhrink below the brim; for 
 if it does, the cheefe will be lpoiled. Before the curd is put 
 in, a cheefe-cloth or drainer fhould be laid at the bottom o£ 
 the vat; and this fhould be fo large, that when the vat is.filled 
 with the curd, the end of the cloth may turn again over the 
 top of it. When this is done, it fhould be taken to the prefs, 
 and there remain for the fpace of two hours; when it fhould 
 be turned, and have a clean cloth put under it; and turned 
 over as before. It mufl then be preifed again, and remain in 
 the prefs fix or eight hours; when it fhould again be turned, 
 and rubbed on each fide with fait. After this it mud be prefled 
 again for the fpace of twelve or fourteen hours more, when, if 
 any of the edges project, they fhould be pared off. It may 
 then be put on a dry board, and regularly turned every day. It 
 is a very good method to have three or four holes bored round 
 the lower part of the vat, fo that the whey may drain fo per¬ 
 fectly from the cheefe, that not the lead particle of it may 
 remain. 
 
 The rennet for turning the milk is made of a calf’s bag, 
 which is to be taken out as foon as the-calf is killed : it mud, 
 be fcoured iafide and out with fait, after it has been difcharged 
 of the curd that is always formed in it. Walli the curd with 
 water in a cullender, and pick out what hairs you find in it. 
 When you have wafhed the curd till it is very white, put it into 
 the bag again, adding to it two good handsful of fait: then, 
 dole up the mouth of the bag with a Ikewer, lay it in an 
 earthen pan, and it will continue fit for ufe twelve months. 
 
 This is the general method of preparing the rennet, but 
 that bed calculated for private families, and which makes the 
 cheefe infinitely more delicate, mud be managed in a different 
 manner, of which the following are clear and proper directions: 
 
 Let the veil, maw, or rennet-bag, be perfedtly fweet, for if 
 it is the lead tainted, the cheefe can never be good. When 
 this is fit for the purpofe, three pints or two quarts of foft wa¬ 
 ter, clean and fweet, fhould be mixed with fait, into which 
 put fome fweet-briar, rofe-leaves, cinnamon, mace, cloves, 
 and, in fhort, almod every fort of fpice and aromatic that can 
 be procured. Boil thefe gently in two quarts of water till the 
 liquor is reduced to three pints, and be careful it is not fmoaked. 
 Strain the liquor clear from the fpices, &c. and when it has 
 dood till it is no warmer than mitk from the cow, pour it upon 
 the veil or maw. You may then llice a lemon in it, and let it 
 XL 3 E * (land 
 
402 SUPPLEMEN T. 
 
 Hand a day or two ; after which it mud be drained again, and 
 put into a bottle. Cork it quite clofe, and it will keep good at 
 lead twelve months. It will fmell like perfume, and a fmall 
 quantity of it will turn the milk, and give the cheefe apleafing 
 flavour. After this, if the veil be faded and dried for a week 
 or two near the fire, it will do for the purpofe again almod as 
 well as before. 
 
 The METHOD of making STILTON CHEESE, 
 
 From the general view of the Agriculture of the County of Leicejler' t 
 
 drawn up for the Conftder ation of the Board of Agriculture, 
 
 By John Monk, of Bears-Comb, Devon. 
 
 STILTON Cheefe is made in mod of the villages round 
 Melton Mowbray, but I found it impoflible to get at the fecret 
 of making it from the dairy people ; and, from the converfa- 
 tion I had with one of the firft managers, I fhould fuppofe two 
 cheefes were never made alike, as it depends upon foil, herbage, 
 feafons* heat, cold, wet, dry, &c. &c. There is no doubt but 
 thofe cheeles require a great deal of care and attention, owing, 
 I fhould fuppofe, to their richnefs and thicknefs. They run 
 from eight to fixteen or eighteen pounds, very feldom larger, 
 and are fold at one fhilling per pound. Mod of the inns in 
 the country retail them, the price thirteen or fourteen pence, 
 per pound. 1 was informed by the maker, that they were never 
 better for the table than at a year old, but I believe they are fel- 
 dom cut fo foon. The bed of the other fort of cheefe made in 
 the county, is, in my opinion, better than the generality of the 
 Stilton, as it is but feldom you meet with a real good one. 
 
 In refpe£t to the great fecret of making Stilton cheefe, I fhould 
 have left the county without acquiring the procefs, if it had 
 not been for the politenefs and attention of Major Chefelden, of 
 Somerly, who, upon my acquainting him with my difappoint- 
 ment, kindly undertook to procure it for me, from one of his 
 tenants, who was among the firit for making it. The following 
 is the 
 
 Receipt for making SxitTON Chee v S. 
 
 TAKE the night’s cream, and put it to the morning’s nevr 
 milk, with the rennet; when the curd is come, it is not to be 
 broken, as is done with other cheefes, but take it out with a foil- 
 difh altogether, and place-it in the fieve to drain gradually, and, 
 as it drains, keep gradually prefiing it till it becomes firm and 
 drv; then place it in a wooden hoop, afterwards to be kept dry 
 on boards, turned frequently, with cloth binders round it, 
 which are to be .tightended as occafion requires. 
 
 N. B. The Dairy-maid mult not be disheartened if Ihe does 
 not fucceed perfectly in the firft attempt. 
 
 In 
 
SUPPLEMENT. 403 
 
 In the dairies which I vifited, the cheefes, after being taken 
 cut of the wooden hoop, were bound tight round with a cloth, 
 which cloth was changed every day, unril the cheefe became 
 firm enough to fupport itfelf; after the cloth was taken off, 
 they were rubbed every day all over, for two or three months, 
 witf a bruih, and if the weather was damp or moift, twice a 
 day ; and, even before the cloth was taken off, the top and bot¬ 
 tom were well rubbed every day. 
 
 Cream Cheefe .—Take twelve quarts of new milk and a quart 
 of cream, put them together with two ipoonfuls of rennet (or 
 lefs according to its ftrength) juft warm ^ and when it has ftood 
 till the curd nas come, lay a cloth in the vat (which muft be 
 made of a proportioned lize for the cheefe) cut out the curd 
 with a Ikimming dilh, and put it into the vat till it is full, 
 turning the cheefe-cloth over it; and as the curd fettles, lay 
 more on till you have laid on as much as will make one cheefe. 
 When the whey is drained out turn - the cheefe into a dry cloth, 
 qnd then lay a pound weight upon it; at. night'turn it out into 
 another cloth, and the next morning fait it a little ; then having 
 made a bed of nettles or afh-leaves to lay it on, cover it with the 
 fame, fbifting it twice a day, for about ten days, when it will be 
 fit for ufe. 
 
 A plain Sage Cheefe .—Bruife the tops of young red fage in a 
 mortar, till you can prefs the juice out of them; bruife likewife 
 fome leaves of fpinach, and having fqueezed out the juice, mix 
 it with that of the fage to render it of a pleafant green colour, 
 which the juice of the fage alone will not make it, and this will 
 alfo allay the bitter tafte of the fage. 
 
 Having prepared the juice, put the rennet to the milk, and at 
 the fame time mix it with as much of the fage, &c. juice as will 
 give the milk the green colour you delire, putting in more or 
 lefs, according as you would have the cheefe tafte ftronger or 
 weaker of the fage. When the curd is come, break it gently, 
 and when it is all equally broken, put it into the cheefe vat or 
 mote, and prefs it gently, which will make it eat tender and 
 mellow. When it has ftood in the prefs about eight hours, it 
 muft be falted, turned every day, and in about a month it will be 
 fit for ufe. 
 
 A Sage Cheefe in Figures .—To do this you muft be provided 
 with two cheefe vats of the fame lize, and the milk muft be fet 
 to turn in two different veffels i one part with plain rennet only 
 and the other with rennet and fage juice. Thefe muft be made 
 as you would do two diftinift cheefes, and put into the preffes 
 at the fame time. When each of thefe cheefes have ftood in 
 the prefs for half an hour, take them out, -and fome fquare 
 
 3 E z pieces 
 
4 04 SUPPLEMENT. 
 
 pieces or long flips out of the plain cheefe, and lay them by on 
 a plate; then cut the fame number of pieces out of the fage- 
 cheefe of the fame figure and iize, and immediately put the 
 pieces of the fage cheefe into the places that you cut out of the 
 plain cheefe, and the pieces cut out of the plain cheefe into the 
 places cut out of the fage cheefe. For this purpofe fome have 
 a tin plate made into figures of feveral fhapes, by which they 
 cut out the pieces of the cheefes fo exa£fly, that they fit with¬ 
 out any trouble. When you have done this, put the cheefes 
 into the preffes again, and manage them like other cheefes. By 
 this method and contrivance you will have one fage cheefe, 
 with white or plain figures in it, and another, a white cheefe, 
 with green figures, Great care muff be taken that the curd is 
 very equally broke, and alfo that both the cheefes are prefled as 
 equally as it is pofiible before the figures are cut out, other- 
 wife,. when they come to be prefled for the laft time, the 
 figures will prefs unequally, and lofe their fhapes. Thefe 
 cheefes fhould be made not above two inches thick; for if they 
 are thicker it will be more difficult to make the figures regular. 
 After they are made, they mnft be frequently turned and fhifted 
 op the flielf, and often rubbed with a coarfe cloth. They will 
 be fit to cut in about eight months. 
 
 Marigold Cheefe .—Pick the frefheft and beft-coloured leaves 
 you can, pound them in a mortar, and ftrain out the juice. 
 Put this into your milk at the fame time that you put in your 
 rennet, and flir them together. The milk being fet, and the 
 curd come, break it as gently and as equally as you poflibly can, 
 put it into the cheefe vat, and prefs it with a gentle weight, 
 there being fuch a number of holes in the bottom part of the 
 vat, as will let the whey eafily out, or elie let there be a fpout 
 to carry off the whey, though holes will be the belt. The 
 management after mult be the fame as with other cheefes. 
 
 Imitation of Chefbire Cheefe .—The milk being fet, and the 
 curd come, do not break it with a-difh, as is cuftomary in 
 making other cheefes, but draw it together with your hands to 
 one fide of the vcffel, breaking it gently and regularly ; for if 
 'it is prefled roughly, a great deal of the richnels of the milk 
 will go into the whey. Put the curd into the cheefu-vat, or 
 mote, as you thus gather it; and when it is full, prefs it and 
 turn it often, falting it at.different times. 
 
 Thefe cheefes muff be made feven or eight inches in thick- 
 nefs, and they will be fit to cut in about twelve months. You 
 muft turn and fhift them frequently upon a fhelf, and rub them 
 with a dry coarfe cloth. At the year’s end you may bore a hole 
 in the middle, and pour in a quarter of a pint of fack, then 
 3 ft°P 
 
SUPPLEMENT. 405 
 
 (lop the hole clofe with Tome of the fame cheefe, and fet' it in 
 a wine cellar for fix months to mellow, at the expiration of 
 which you- will find the lack all loft, and the hole, in a man¬ 
 ner, clofed up. This cheefe, if properly managed* will eat 
 exceeding fine and rich, and its flavour will be both pleafant 
 and grateful. • t 
 
 Of feeding Cows. 
 
 . THE following pra£tice is purfued by Mr. Henry Harper , of 
 Bankhall, near Liverpool, a very experienced farmer. We 
 {hall give it iti his own words, as follows: “ I had One year fix 
 cows that I .houfed, all at one time, and nearly all of an age ; 
 and, by way of experiment, I fed two with turnips and ground 
 corn, and two with boiled potatoes and ground corn, and two 
 with raw potatoes and boiled corn : they were all put to feed at 
 one time, and when I thought them fit for the market, I fold 
 three •, one from every lot, and went to fee them dreffed. In 
 thofe two fed with ground corn and turnips, and ground com 
 and-boiled potatoes, there was little or no difference; but that 
 which was fed with raw potatoes and boiled corn, was better 
 m flefh, and fatter within fide than the other two, by a fort¬ 
 night’s keep; and this was not only my opinion, but the 
 butcher’s who killed them. The other three I kept three weeks 
 longer; and, when killed, they were proportionably nearly in 
 the fame ftate with the others, but better by being kept the 
 longer ; fo I prefer boiled corn of any fort of grain, and think 
 it more forcing, either for milk or feeding. They had all one 
 and the fame quantity of corn, &c.” 
 
 Boiling corn has been pratfifed by fome others with good 
 fuccefs. A little linfeed improves the quality. Hay-feeds, 
 that drop out of the hay, fhould be carefully preferved, and 
 worked up in mixtures of potatoes or oats, either fcalded or 
 boiled. 
 
 The following particulars, applicable to the prefent fubje£I # 
 may be aptly introduced in this place. A very ingenious paper 
 upon the management of cows in the neighbourhood of Lon¬ 
 don, has been laid before the Board of Agriculture by Baron 
 D’Alton, a foreign nobleman; and, from the accurate calcu¬ 
 lations therein given, it appears, that keeping cows in the houfe 
 is more profitable hufbantlry, than pafturing them in the fields, 
 as is commonly done. 
 
 The gentleman who furveyed the Weft Riding of Yorkfhire 
 for the Board of Agriculture, made repeated enquiries whether 
 any fuch pra&ice prevailed in that diftrnSfc ; therefult of which 
 was, that it was only done by a few cow-keepers in towns, 
 who had little or no land. By a letter which they received 
 from Mr. Stockdale, at Knarefborough, after they had ftnifhed 
 
 their 
 
40 6 SUPPLEMENT. 
 
 their furvey, they were informed that this pra&ice was com¬ 
 mon at Leeds ; and on purfuing their further enquiries at that 
 place, they received the following letter from a gentleman re- 
 fident in that town : “ Leeds , Jan. iy.- Sir, There are a few 
 cows kept in the houfe all fummer, and the way in which they 
 are managed, is, by giving them grafs frefh cut, and watering 
 the ground as the grafs comes off, with the urine from the 
 cows. The urine is preferved by a ciftern, placed on the out- 
 fide of the cow-houfe, and is conveyed to the land at almoft all 
 feafons, but the mod profitable time for doing it is March, 
 April, or May* by which means, and the addition of horfe- 
 dung applied during the winter months, the field may be cut 
 four or five times during the feafon. I am told four acres of 
 land will, in this method, maintain ten cows j and in the win¬ 
 ter they are fed with grains from the brewers, which are very 
 high in price, being 3s. 6d. per quarter. It will take about 
 four pounds worth of grains to maintain for the winter months, 
 and two pounds.for. grafs during the fummer ; fo that the ex¬ 
 pence of a cow for the whole year is about fix pounds.” 
 
 “ I kept thirteen cows one winter, which were fed upon 
 turnips and oat-ftraw, and never got a mouthful of hay, They 
 yielded me thirty gallons of milk per day, which, fix years ago, 
 fold upon the fpot to the retailers from Leeds at 5d^ per gal¬ 
 lon. They carried it a mile, and fold it out at 6d^ and yd. 
 per gallon, but it is now advanced to 8d. and pd. 
 
 “ I mult notice to you, that the tafte of the turnip is eafily 
 taken off the milk and butter, by difTolving a little nitre in 
 fpring water, which being kept in a bottle, and a fmall tea-cup 
 full put among eight gallons of milk, when warm from the 
 cow, entirely removes any tafte or flavour of the turnip.” 
 
 “ In the management of cows, a warm (table is highly ne- 
 ceffary, and the currying them, like horfes, not only affords 
 thepi plcalure, but makes them give their milk more freely. 
 They ought always to be kept clean, laid dry, and have plenty 
 of good fweet water to drink. I have had cows giving me 
 two gallons of milk at a meal when within ten days of calving, 
 and did not upon trial, find any advantage by allowing them to 
 go dry two months before calving.” 
 
 “ The average of our cows is about fix gallons per day after 
 quitting the calf.” 
 
 It is afterwards added, that one of the gentlemen employed 
 to furvey this diftrift for fome years, has kept his cows in the 
 houfe upon red clover and rye-grafs during the fummer months. 
 They are put out to a fmall park in the evening after milking, 
 for the convenience of getting water, and tied up in the houfe 
 early iq tfie morning. Qne acre of clover has been found to 
 
 s go 
 
SUPPLEMENT. 407 
 
 go as Far in this way, as two when paftured. More milk is 
 produced, and the quantity of rich dung made in this method, 
 is fuppofed to compenfate the additional trouble of cutting and 
 bringing in the grafs. 
 
 To tale off any difagreeable tq/le or flavour communicated to 
 BUTTER where Cows have fed on Turnips , SsV. 
 
 BESIDES the method recommended in the above article, 
 Mr. Billmgfley of Afliwick Grove, in his u General View of 
 Agriculture, in the County of Somerfet,” has given us the 
 following recipe for the fame purpofe : 
 
 “ When the milk is fet abroad in the leads, put one gallon 
 of boiling water to fix gallons of milk. It may alfo be pre¬ 
 vented by diffolving nitre in fpring water, and putting about a 
 quarter of a pint to ten or twelve gallons of milk when warm 
 from the cow.” 
 
 An approved Receipt to preferve Butter. By Dr. Anderson. 
 
 TAKE two parts of the bell common fait, one part fugar, 
 and one part fait petre ; beat them up together, and blend the 
 whole completely. Take one ounce of this compofition for 
 every fixteen ounces of butter, work it well into the mafs, and 
 clofe it up for ufe. 
 
 No fimple improvement in ceconomics, is greater than this, 
 when compared with the ufual method of curing butter by 
 means of common fait alone. In an open market the one 
 would fell for thirty per cent, more than the other. The butter 
 thus cured appears of a rich marrowy confidence, and fine co¬ 
 lour, and never acquires a brittle hardnefs, nor tajles falt y like 
 the other, which has the appearance of tallow. 
 
 Butter cured by this new method mult not be opened for ufe 
 in a month after it is made up. 
 
 The practice of keeping milk in leaden vejfels t and of falting 
 butter in Jlone jars , is very detrimental; the well-known effeCb 
 of the pcifon of lead are, bodily debility, palfy, death. The ufe 
 of wooden veffels for thefe purpofes is moll wholefome and more 
 cleanly. 
 
 SECT. V. 
 
 MANAGEMENT of the KITCHEN-GARDEN. 
 
 THOUGH the management j>f the Kitchen-Garden is not 
 to be confidered as'the direct province of the houfekeeper, yef, 
 as its productions are fo eflential in a family, by their great 
 addition to cookery, it cannot be thought improper for the 
 principals of that family to be informed of the necelfary ftep$ 
 that Ihould be taken, in order to furnilh the table, with all forts 
 
408 SUPPLEMENT. 
 
 of plants and roots according to their refpeftive feafons. We 
 fhall, therefore, here fubjoin, as a concluhve fedtion, a con- 
 cife and elear flcetch of the management of fuch articles in the 
 vegetable fyftem, as by proper attention, may be had in fuc- 
 ceffion from the month o.f January to that of December. 
 
 January. 
 
 THOUGH this month produces very little vegetation in the 
 kitchen garden, yet there are many things neceflary to be at¬ 
 tended to for the produ&ion of articles in the months fucceed- 
 ing* The bufmefs o( fowing and planting may now be per¬ 
 formed moderately, in fuch crops as may be required in the 
 earlieft produ£tion, fome in the natural-ground, and others, in 
 hot beds *, fuch as radifhes, fpinach, lettuce, carrots, peas, 
 beans, parfley, cauliflowers, cabbages, mufhrcoms, kidney- 
 beans, afparagus, fmall fallading, &ci Thofe fown in natural 
 ground muft be in the warmed corners, and gently covered on 
 nights with warm mats, and when the weather is fevere, they 
 muft like wife be covered in the day. 
 
 CUCUMBERS may be fown in a hot-bed any time this 
 month to produce early fruit in March, April, and May. Have 
 for this purpofe well-prepared hot dung, make the hot-bed a 
 yard high, for one or two light frames, and earth it fix inches 
 thick with rich mould. Sow fome early prickly cucumber- 
 feed half an inch deep, .and when the plants have come up, and 
 the feed leaves are half an inch broad, prick them in fmall pots, 
 four in each, and put them into the earth of the hot-bed, ob- 
 fcrving from the beginning to have proper air by tilting the 
 lights at top, one or two fingers breadths, cover the glafles 
 with mats every night, give them occafional watering, and, 
 when you find the heat of the bed decreafed, line the fiaes of 
 jt with hot dung. "When cucumbers have advanced in growth, 
 with the rough or proper leaves*, one or two inches broad, 
 tranfplant them with a larger hot-bed, finally to remain for 
 fruiting. 
 
 Earth up your full-grown crops of celery ; the late crops 
 earth up moderately, and cover fome beft plants it the weather 
 is frofty, or remove a quantity of them under ihelter. 
 
 With refpe£t to your endive, tie up fome every week to 
 blanch, in dry, open weather* and remove fome with their 
 full roots on a dry day, and place horizontally into ridges of 
 dry earth, and in hard frofts cover them with long litter. 
 
 About the middle or towards the latter end of the month, 
 maybe fown a little CatTot Seed: from whence you will have 
 the chance of drawing a few young in April and May. 
 
 Plant Hvrfe-Radijh , by cuttings from the off-let- roots of the 
 
 old 
 
SUPPLEMENT. 4 og 
 
 old ones : fet them in rows two feet diftant, and about fifteen 
 inches deep, that they may obtain long (trait (hoots. 
 
 Artichokes mult now be earthed up, digging between them, 
 and laying the earth along the rows clofe about the plants. In 
 hard frolty weather cover them with litter. 
 
 You mudkeep your tender plants, fuch as Radi/hes , fown in 
 borders, covered with draw condantly till they come up, and 
 afterwards every night, more efpecially if the weather is frody $ 
 alfo Cauliflowers , Lettuce , and Sallading, under frames, &c. by 
 putting on the glades every night; and in fevere frod cover 
 likewife the glades and hides of the frames with litter. 
 
 February. 
 
 A great deal of attention is due to the kitchen garden this 
 month, it being the commencement of the early efforts of ve¬ 
 getation. Preparation mud be made of all vacant ground, by 
 dunging, digging, and trenching it; and making it in proper 
 order, ready for fowing and planting with early and main crops, 
 not only for the fucceeding months, but the general fupply of 
 the year. Dung and manure thofe parts of your ground mod: 
 wanting, and for particular crops; fuch as cabbages, cauli¬ 
 flowers, onions, leeks, artichokes, afparagus, and other princi¬ 
 pal articles. 
 
 Sow early crops on fouth borders, and fome main crops in 
 the open quarters, fuch as radilhes, peas, beans, fpinach, lettuce, 
 onions, leeks, cabbages, carrots, parfnips, beets, coleworts, 
 favoys, brocoli, fmall fallading, parfley, chervil, borage, fennel, 
 dill, marigolds, burnet, clary, angelica, corn-fallad, creffes, 
 mudard, rape, &c. 
 
 Sow full crops of peas at the beginning, and towards the lat¬ 
 ter end of the month, of the bed bearers, or fuch as are mod 
 edeemed. Alfo beans of different forts in rows a yard didant 
 from each other. Sow cauliflower-feeds in a hot-bed, or in a 
 warm border, or under a frame, to plant out in April or May, 
 to fucceed the winter plants. 
 
 If the weather is mild, begin fowing the fird main crop of 
 carrots, in an open fituation, in light rich ground trenched two 
 fpades deep, fcatter the feed moderately thin, and rake it in 
 regularly. Sow alfo parfnips, onions, leeks, beet, and fpinach. 
 
 Transplant fome of the dronged cabbage-plants into an open 
 quarter of good ground, in rows, one, two, and three feet dif¬ 
 tant, to cut young, and at half and full growth. Plant cab¬ 
 bage plants of the fugar-loaf and early kinds, in rows a foot 
 didant. Alfo Jerufalem artichokes, in open ground, by cut¬ 
 tings of the roots, in rows two feet and a half afunder. 
 
 Some Parfley for a main crop, both of the plain and curled 
 leaved forts, either in a Angle drill, along the edge of borders 
 No. XL 3 F or 
 
4 io SUPPLEMENT. 
 
 or quarters; or in continued drills eight or nine inches afunder. 
 Sow fennel either in drills a foot diftance, or on the furface, 
 and rake it in even, both for tranfplanting,and to remain where 
 fowed. 
 
 In order to produce fprou'ts, plant flalks of cabbage, favoys, 
 purple brocoli, and cithers of the citbrbage tribe. 
 
 Give air to plants in hot-beds, as alfo to thofe under frames 
 and glaffes, by either tilting the glaffes two or three inches, or, 
 on mild, dry days, drawing them up or down half-way, or oc- 
 •cafionally remove them entirely 5 but put them on again to¬ 
 wards night. 
 
 March. 
 
 EVERY thing fhould now be forwarded relative to the cul¬ 
 tivation and preparation of the ground, in finifhing all principal 
 dunging, digging, trenching, and levelling ridged ground, ac¬ 
 cording as wanted for lowing and planting, which fhould 
 now be commenced in all the principal kitchen-garden efcu- 
 lents for the main crops, particularly the following articles: 
 onions, leeks, carrots, parfnips, red-beet, green-beet, white-beet 
 fpinach, lettuce, cabbage, favoys, cauliflower, brocoli, borecole, 
 colewort, afparagus, beans, peas, kidney-beans, turnips, parfley, 
 celery, turnip-cabbage, turnip-radifh; and of fallad and fweet- 
 herbs, creffes, muftard, rape, radifh, nafturtium, borage, mari¬ 
 golds, chervil, thyme, favory, marjoram, coriander, corn-fallad, 
 clary, fennel, angelica, dill, and fome others. 
 
 For fucceffional, and fome firfb early crops, fow in hot-beds 
 cucumbers, melons, bafd, purflane, capficum, cauliflower, co¬ 
 riander, gourds, and fmall fallading. 
 
 Great care fhould be taken that their feeds are quite frefh, 
 which is a matter of great importance, and for want of which 
 many are difappoinled in their principal crops, when too late 
 to fow again. Likewife to have the beil varieties, both of feeds 
 and plants, of the refpe6tive kinds, which, in many principal 
 forts, is alfo a very material confederation, particularly at this 
 feafon for fowing and planting the main crops. 
 
 When you fow your different crops, let it be in dry weather, 
 and while the ground is frefh dug, or levelled down, or when it 
 will admit of raking freely without clogging. 
 
 Cauliflower plants that have flood the winter, in frames or 
 borders, fhould now be planted out, if the weather is mild, in 
 well dug ground, two feet and a half diflant, and draw earth 
 to thofe remaining under the glafles, which flill continue over 
 the plants to forward them, but prop up the glaffes about three 
 inches to admit air, &c. Give air likewife to your cucumber 
 2nd melon plants, by tilting the glaffes behind, one, two, or 
 three fingers breadth, in proportion to the heat of the bed, and 
 / ' temperature. 
 
SUPPLEMENT. 411 
 
 temperature of the weather. Cover the glaffes every night 
 with mats, and fupport the heat when you find it declining, 
 by lining the fides with hot dung. 
 
 Towards the latter end of the month plant potatoes for a full 
 crop, in lightiih good ground, fome early kind for a forward 
 crop in fummer, and a large portion of the common forts for 
 the general autumn. and winter crops. The- moil proper fort for 
 planting is, the very large potatoes, which you mull cut into 
 ieveral pieces, having one or more eyes to each cutting. Plant 
 them either by dibble, or in deep drills, and fink them about 
 four or five inches in the earth. 
 
 Plant your main crop of fhalot by off-fets, or thefniall or full 
 roots, fet in beds fix inches apart. 
 
 Sow a fucceflional and full crop of fpinach twice this month, 
 of the round leafed kind, in an open fituation; or it may be 
 fown occafionally between rows of beans, cabbages, cauli¬ 
 flowers, h'orfe-radifh, artichokes, See. 
 
 In this month fow a fmall, or moderate crop of the early 
 Dutch kind of turnips, in a free fituation. Repeat your fow- 
 ing at two or three different times, in order to have a regular 
 early fuccefiion to draw in May and June. 
 
 Be particularly careful to deltroy, either by hand or hoe, all 
 the weeds in their early growth, or otherwife they will ma¬ 
 terially injure the plants. 
 
 April. 
 
 IF you omitted fowing or planting any principal crops as di¬ 
 rected for laft month, let it be done early in this, particularly 
 the main crop of onions, leeks, parfnips, carrots, red-beet, &c. 
 for when fowed late, they never attain equal perfection as when 
 at the proper feafon. 
 
 Finilh fowing afparagus, if not done the preceding month, to 
 raife plants for frelh plantations, and forcing. 
 
 Sow the main crop pf the green and red borecole, in an open 
 fituation, to plant out in May and June, for autumn, winter, 
 and the fupply of the following fpring. Sow likewife fome of 
 the purple and cauliflower forts of brocoli, to plant out in fum¬ 
 mer, for the firft general autumn crop. 
 
 Kidney-beans of the early dwarf kinds fhould now be town 
 in a warm border, as alfo fome fpeckled dwarfs, and a larger 
 fupply in the open quarters, in drills two feet, or two and a half 
 diftance. 
 
 Sow different kinds of lettuce two or three times this month, 
 for fucceeding crops. 
 
 Be particularly attentive to your melons, which are in hot¬ 
 beds. Train the vine regular, give them air daily, with occa- 
 
 3 F 2 fional 
 
4*2 
 
 SUPPLEMENT. 
 
 Tonal moderate waterings. Cover the glafTes every night, 
 and keep up a good heat in the beds, by linings of hot dung. 
 
 Sow full crops of peas, for fucceffion of marrowfats, once a 
 fortnight, alfo of rouncivals, morotto, and other large kinds ; 
 likewife fome hotfpurs, &c. to have a plentiful variety, and 
 young. Sow them in drills, two feet and a half, or a yard 
 afunder, or the large kinds for flicking, four feet diftance. 
 
 Finifh planting the main crop of potatoes as directed laft 
 month. 
 
 Sow the feed for pot-herbs of thyme, favory, fweet-marjo- 
 ram, borage, burnet, dill, fennel, chervil, marigolds, coriander, 
 tarragon, forrel, bafil, clary, angelica, hyffop, anife, beets, and 
 parfley. 
 
 Plant aromatic herbs, as mint, fage, balm, rue, rofemary, 
 lavender, Set. all of which either by young or full plants; as 
 alfo flips, parting roots, and oflf-fets, and fome by flips and cut¬ 
 tings, of fide fhoots. 
 
 Continue fowing fucceflional crops every fortnight of radilhes, 
 in open fituations, to have an eligible variety, young and plen¬ 
 tiful. Thofe that have already come up you muft thin, or they 
 will run with great tops, but fmall roots. 
 
 Sow a principal crop of favoys, in an open fituation, detached 
 from walls, hedges, &c. that the plants may be flrong and 
 robuft, for planting out in fummer, to furnifh a full crop well 
 cabbaged in autumn, and for the general winter fupply, till 
 next fpring, being a moft valuable autumn and winter cab¬ 
 bage. ‘ 
 
 May. 
 
 THE grand bufinefs of this month is, to fow and plant fe-_ 
 veral fucceffion crops of plants that are of fhort duration, 
 and others of a more durable ftate. Weed, hoe, and thin the 
 different main crops, according as they require it, and water the 
 various new planted crops, and others in feed-beds, hot-beds, 
 &c.many articles, however, require now to be fowed and plants 
 ed, and pricked out for fummer, autumn, and winter fervice. 
 
 The principal fowing this month in hot-beds is for cucum¬ 
 bers, melons, and a few gourds and pompions. 
 
 In the natural ground planting is neceffary for cabbages, 
 coleworts, favoys, borecole, brocoli, celery, endive, lettuce, 
 beans, kidney-beans, cauliflowers, capficum, bafiJ, late potatoes, 
 and radifhes for feed. 
 
 Hoe between the artichokes, to kill the weeds, and in new 
 plantations loofen the earth about the young plants. 
 
 Keep your afparagus clear from weeds, both in the old beds 
 and thofe planted this fpring, as well as in the feed-beds. The 
 old afparagus beds will now be in full production for the fea- 
 
 fon, 
 
SUPPLEMENT. 413 
 
 fon, and the beds or fhoots fhould be gathered two or three 
 times a week, or according as they advance in growth, from 
 two or three to five or fix inches high, cutting them with a long 
 narrow knife about three inches within the ground. 
 
 Top your early beans that are in the bloflbm; alfo the fuc- 
 ceeding crops as they come with flower, to make the pods fet 
 foon and fine. 
 
 Plant out fome early fpring raifed plants of brocoli, at two 
 feet diflance. Prick out young ones, and fow a good crop to 
 plant out for winter and fpring. Leave fome of the bell old 
 plants for feed. 
 
 Hoe between your cabbages, cutup all the weeds, loofen the 
 ground a moderate depth, and draw earth about the (terns of 
 the plants. The early cabbages, which are forwarded in growth, 
 and fulled hearts, mud have their leaves tied together with an 
 ofier twig, or bafs, to promote or haden their cabbaging, and 
 to render them white and tender. Likewife plant out fome 
 (lout, fpring-raifed red cabbage plants, for autumn and winter 
 fupply. 
 
 Thin your carrots, and cleanfe them from weeds, either-by 
 hand-weeding, or fmall hoeing, leaving thofe intended to draw 
 young in fummer, four or five inches apart, but the main crops 
 mud be thinned fix or eight inches. Likewife hoe between your 
 cauliflowers, and draw the earth to their Items. As alfo be¬ 
 tween rows of beans, peas, kidney-beans, and all other plants 
 in rows. 
 
 Thin the fpring-fowed crops of lettuces, and plant out pro¬ 
 per fupplies of the different forts a foot didance. Tie up 
 early cos-lettuces to forward their cabbaging. 
 
 Weed the general fpring-fowed crops of onions, and thin 
 the plants where too thick. Leave fome of the bulbous kind 
 of winter onions at proper didances for early bulbing next 
 month. 
 
 Continue fowing once a fortnight marrowfats, and ..other 
 large kinds of peafe •, alfo fome of the bed hotfpurs, or other 
 forts approved of, to furnifh a regular fucceffion of the differ¬ 
 ent forts. You may likewife continue to fow radifhes in open 
 fituations, once a week or fortnight, in moderate quantities, 
 for fucceflion crops this and the following month. Thofe of 
 former fowings in the lad month, where come up thick, mud be 
 thinned. 
 
 Sow fallading of the different forts, as lettuce, creffes, muf- 
 tard, radifh, rape, and purflane, to have a proper fucceflion to 
 cut while young. 
 
 Plant out fome of the dronged early favoy plants, in an open 
 fituation, two feet and a half afunder, for autumn, &c. 
 
 If 
 
414 supplement; 
 
 If a conflant fuccefiion is required, continue to fow fome 
 round leaved fpinach in open fituations. 
 
 Watering will now be frequently required to moft new plant¬ 
 ed crops, both at planting and occafionally afterwards in 
 dry weather, till they hike root likewife feed-beds of fmall 
 crops lately fowed, or the plants young, in very dry weather. 
 Your weeding mull be very diligently attended to both by 
 hand and hoe; for as weeds will be advancing numeroufly 
 among all crops, it becomes a principal bufinefs to eradicate 
 them before they fpead too far, otherwife they will impede the 
 growth ( 5 f the plants. 
 
 June. 
 
 SOWING and planting are ftillrequiflte in many fuccefiional, 
 and fome main crops for autumn and winter and in the crops 
 now advancing, or in perfe&ion, the bufinefs of hoeing, weed¬ 
 ing, and occasional watering, will demand particular attention. 
 
 Planting is now neceflary in feveral principal plants for gene-« 
 ral fucceffion fummer crops, and main crops for autumn, win¬ 
 ter, &c. The whole in the open ground, except two articles, 
 and thofe are cucumbers and melon plants for the laft crop in 
 hot-bed ridges. 
 
 In the open ground plant cabbage, brocoli, borecole, favoys, 
 coleworts, celery, endive, lettuce, cauliflowers, leeks, beans, 
 kidney-beans; and various aromatic and pot-herbs, by flips, 
 cuttings, or young plants. Showery weather is by far the beft 
 either for lowing or planting; and when it occurs lofe no time 
 in putting in the neceflary crops wanting. 
 
 Hoe between your artichokes to kill the weeds, and if re¬ 
 quired to have the main top fruit, now advancing, attain the 
 fulled: fize, detach the fmall fide fuckers, or lateral heads. 
 
 Keep your afparagus beds very clear from weeds, now com¬ 
 monly riling numeroufly therein, which will foon overfpead, if 
 not timely cleared out. Likewife new-planted afparagus, and 
 feed-beds, fhould be carefully weeded. Cut the afparagus nowin 
 perfection, according as the (hoots advance three, four, or five 
 inches high; which you may continue to do all this month. 
 
 Plant fucceflional crops of beans in the beginning, middle, 
 and latter end of this month, fome Windfors, long pods, white 
 blofibm, and Mumford kinds, or any others. If the weather is 
 very hot and dry, foak the beans a few hours in loft water be¬ 
 fore you plant them. Hoe thofe of former planting, and draw 
 the earth to the ftems. Top thofe that are in blofibm. 
 
 Your early cauliflowers, which will be now advancing in 
 flower heads, mull be watered in dry weather, to make the 
 heads large ; and according as the heads (how, break down 
 fome of the large leaves over them, to keep off fun and rain, 
 .4 that 
 
SUPPLEMENT. 41$ 
 
 that they may be white and clofe. Mark for feed fome of the 
 largeft and belt,' to remain in the fame place to produce it in 
 autumn. 
 
 The fftft main crops of celery muft be now planted in trenches 
 to blanch; the trenches to be three feet diflance, a foot wide, 
 and dig the earth out a fpade deep, laying it equally to each fide 
 in a level order; then dig the bottom, and if poor, and rotten 
 dung, and dig it in. Draw up fome of the-ftroUgeft plants, 
 trim the long roots and tops, plant a row along the bottom of 
 each trench four or five inches diftance, and finifh with a good 
 watering. 
 
 Give plenty of air daily to cucumbers in hot-beds, and water 
 them two or three times a week, or oftener if the weather is 
 hot, but ftill continue the glaffes over them all this month. 
 Shade them from the mid-day fun, and ftill cover them on 
 nights with mats. About the middle, or towards the end of 
 the month you may raife the frame three or inches at bottom, 
 for the vine to run out, and extend itfelf. Thofe under hand- 
 glaffes fhould have them raifed for the fame purpofe. 
 
 In the beginning of this month fow a full crop of cucumbers 
 in the natural ground to produce picklers, and for other late 
 purpofes in autumn; allotting a compartment of rich ground 
 dug and formed into beds five or fix feet wide; and along the 
 middle, form with the hand {hallow bafon-like holes ten or 
 twelve inches wide, one or two deep in the middle, and a yard 
 diftant from each other; fow eight or ten feeds in the middle 
 of each half an inch deep ; and when the plants come up, thin 
 them to four of the ftrongeft in each hole to remain. Be care¬ 
 ful frequently to water them when the weather is dry. 
 
 Sow the main crops of the green-curled endive, atfo a fmaller 
 fupply of the white curled, and large Batavia, endive; each 
 thin in open ground to plant out for autumn and winter. 
 
 Clear your onions from weeds, and give them the final thin¬ 
 ning, either by hand, or fmall hoeing ; the main crops to four 
 or five inches diftant: the others, defigned for gradual 
 thinning in fummer, leave clofer, or to be thinned by degree? 
 as wanted. 
 
 Sow more marrowfat peas, and fome hotfpurs or rouncivals 
 and other large kinds. This is alfo a proper time to fow the 
 leadman’s dwarf pea, which is a great bearer, fmall podded, but 
 very fweat eating. If the weather is very hot, either foak the 
 feed, or water the drills before fowing. 
 
 Hoe between your potatoes to kill the weeds and loo'fen the 
 ground; and draw the earth to the bottom of the plants. 
 
 Thin all clofe crops now remaining to tranfplant proper dil'- 
 tances. Many forts will now require it, as carrots, parfnips, 
 onions, leeks, beet, fpinadr, radifh, lettuce, turnips, turnip- 
 
 radifh. 
 
4 i6 SUPPLEMENT. 
 
 radifh, parfley, dill, fennel, borage, marigold, See. all whichmav 
 be done by hand or fmall hoeing : the former may do for fmall 
 crops, but for large fupplies the fmall hoe is not only the moll 
 expeditious, but by loofening the furface of the earth, contri¬ 
 butes exceedingly to the prosperity of the plants. 
 
 July. 
 
 SEVERAL fucceflicnal crops are required to be fown this 
 month for the fupply of autumn, and fome main crops for win¬ 
 ter confumprion. Many principle crops will be now arrived to 
 full perfection, and fome mature crops all gathered. When the 
 latter is the cafe, the ground fhould be cleared arid dry for fuc- 
 ceeding ones, or for fome general autumn, and winter crops, as 
 turnips, cabbages, favoys, brocoli, cauliflower, celery, endive. 
 See. 8 cc. 
 
 The bufinefs of fowing and planting this month will be more 
 fuccefsful if done in moift or fhowery weather, or on the ap¬ 
 proach of rain, or immediately after; efpecially for fmall feeds, 
 and young feedling plants. 
 
 Old crops of artichokes now advancing in full fruit fhould be 
 diverted of fome of the fmall fide heads, to encourage the princi¬ 
 pal top heads in attaining a larger magnitude. 
 
 Now is the time to gather aromatic herbs for drying and dis¬ 
 tilling, See. as lpear-mint, pepper-mint, balm, penny-royal, 
 camomile-flowers, lavender-flowers, fage, hyffop, marjoram, 
 fennel, dill, bafil, tarragon, angelica, marigold-flowers, fweet- 
 marjoram, &c. mort of which, when juft coming into flower, 
 are in beft perfection for gathering. The fennel, dill, and 
 angelica, fhould remain till they are in feed. 
 
 You may ftill gather from old beds of afparagus ; but this 
 muft be foon difeontinued for the feafon, otherwife it will im- 
 poverifh the roots too much for future production: therefore 
 you muft permit all the fhoots to run to {talks. 
 
 Plant the laft crops of beans, for late production in autumn. 
 Let them be principally of the fmaller kind, as they are molt 
 fuccefsful in late planting, fuch as white bloffom, green non¬ 
 pareils, fmall long pods, Sec. putting in a few at two or three 
 different times in the month; and alfo fome larger kinds, to 
 have the greater chance of fuccefs and variety; and in all of 
 which, if dry weather, foak the beans in foft water, fix or eight 
 hours, thin plant them, and water the ground along the rows. 
 
 Plant a main crop of the purple and white brocoli, in good 
 ground, two feet and a half afunder, to produce full heads the 
 end of autumn and the following fpring. 
 
 If any main crops of carrots remain too thick, thin them to 
 proper diftances ; and fow fome feed to furnifh young ones for 
 autumn. 
 
 Cauliflowers 
 
SUPPLEMENT. 417 
 
 Cauliflowers that were fown in May muft be now planted 
 Out in rich ground, two feet and a half diftant from each other 
 for the Michaelmas, or autumn and winter crop. 
 
 Give your cucumbers, which are in frames and hand-glaffes, 
 full fcope to run, efpecially the hand-glafs crops, by propping up 
 the glades, on every fide for the runners to extend : or fome in 
 frames may be confined entirely within, in order to be wholly 
 defended with the glades, in cafe of immoderate rains, 
 that the fruit may grow clean and free from fpotting : in others 
 have the frames raifed at bottom for the vine to run out; and 
 in both methods let there be a moderate fhade over the fevere 
 part of very hot days, and give them plenty of water every day 
 or two, or the lights may be taken off now on fine days occafion- 
 ally for them to receive the benefit of warm fhowers, but they 
 muft be put on again at night, and in bad weather, or incefTant 
 rain. In the hand-glafs crop keep the glades conflantly over 
 the heads of the plants, except taking them off at times to ad¬ 
 mit warm and gentle fhowers. 
 
 Earth up celery plants, to blanch ; alfo the Items of young 
 cabbages, favoys, brocoli, borecole, beans, peas, kidney-beans 9 
 &c. to ftrengthen their growth. 
 
 Give good waterings to gourds; and thofe planted under 
 walls, or other fences, train the runners or (talks thereto: thofe 
 that have been fupported by (takes, and other means, muft be 
 permitted to extend on the ground. 
 
 Sow the principal late crops of kidney-beans, of the dwarf 
 kinds, for autumn fupply; and fome more for later fucceflional 
 production in September, &c. fow them all in drills, two 
 feet or two feet and a half diftance; and if the weather is very 
 hot and dry, either foak the beans, or water the drills well be~ 
 fore you fow them. 
 
 Continue to plant out different forts of lettuces at a foot or 
 fifteen inches diftance from each other. Plant them in fmali 
 {hallow drills, to preferve the moifture longer; and water them 
 well at planting. 
 
 If your melons are advanced to full growth, give them but 
 little water, as much moifture will retard the ripening, and pre¬ 
 vent their acquiring that rich flavour peculiar to this fruit. If 
 they are ripe gather them in the morning. Mature ripenefs is 
 fometimes (hewn by the fruit cracking at the bafe round the 
 (talk, or by changing yellowifh, and imparting a fragant odour. 
 
 Mufhroom beds that are ftill in production muft be kept 
 covered with ftraw; but you may fometimes admit a warm 
 moderate fhower. New beds (hould now be prepared for fur¬ 
 ther production, which muft be done by collecting together 
 different compofitions proper for the purpofe: as old dung 
 hot-beds, old mufhroom-fceds when demalifhed, horfe-ftable 
 
 XL 3 G dung- 
 
4 iS SUPPLEMENT. 
 
 dung-hills of feveral months lying, cither in the liable yards, 
 or large heaps in fields, &c. and all places where horfe-dung 
 and litter has been of any long continuance, and moderately 
 dry ; as in horfe-rides, under cover In livery liable yards, &c. 
 likewife in horfe-mill tracks, where horfes are employed in 
 manufactories, &c. in working machines and mills under 
 cover ; alfo under old hay-llacks; in all of which the fpawn is 
 found in cakes or lumps, abounding with fmall whitilh fibres, 
 which is the fpawn ; and which, in the faid lumps, Ihould 
 be depofited under cover in the dry, in an heap, and covered 
 Myith Itraw or mats till wanted for fpawning new made beds, 
 this or the fucceeding month. 
 
 Dig up fome of the early crops of potatoes for ufe; only 
 3 few at a time as wanted for prefent ufe ; for as they are not 
 at their full growth, they will keep but a few days. 
 
 Radifhes may be fowed for an autumn crop to draw next 
 rrionih. 
 
 Gather ripe feed in dry weather, when at full maturity, and 
 beginning to harden. Cut up or detach the ftalks with the 
 feed thereon, and place them on a fpot where the fun has the 
 greatell power for a week or two. Then beat or rub out the 
 fmall feeds on cloths, fpread them in the fun to harden, then 
 cleanfe them and put them by for ufe. 
 
 August. 
 
 SEVERAL crops are to be fowed this month for winter and 
 the next fpring and early fummer crops; as cabbages, cauli¬ 
 flowers, onions, carrots, fpinach, and fome principal crops 
 planted for late autumn and winter fupplies. In this month 
 digging vacant ground is required for fowing.and planting fe¬ 
 veral full crops. All new planted articles mull be watered, and 
 diligent attention paid to the deflruClion of the weeds before 
 they grow large, or come to feed. 
 
 Artichokes will now be in full fruit in perfection. They are 
 proper to cut for ufe when the fcales of the head expand, and 
 before they open in the heart for flowering, and as you cut 
 them, break down the Hems, to encourage the root ofF-fets. 
 
 Afparagus, which will be now all run to feed, mull be kept 
 clean from weeds, which is all the culture they will require till 
 OCtober or November, then to have their winter drelfing. 
 
 Sow cauliflower feed about the latter end of the month, to 
 flund the winter, in frames, hand-glafles, and warm borders, 
 for the early and general fummer crop, next year ; and for which 
 remark the above time, for if the feed is fown earlier, they 
 will button, or run in winter, and if later, they will not attain 
 due llrength before that feafon. If the weather is dry, occa- 
 fi.qnally water them, and let them be lhaded from the mid-day 
 lit a . 
 
 Earth 
 
SUPPLEMENT. 419 
 
 Earth up the former planted crops of celery, repeating it 
 every week according as the plants advance in growth. Do it 
 moderately on both fides the rows, but be careful not to clog up 
 the hearts. 
 
 Cucumbers in frames, &c. may now be fully expofea by re¬ 
 moving the glades. Picklers, or thofe in the open ground, will 
 now be in full perfection. Gather thofe for pickling while 
 young two or three times a week. While the weather con¬ 
 tinues hot, daily water the plants. 
 
 In dry weather hoe various crops in rows, to kill weeds, 
 loofening the earth about, and drawing fome to the items of the 
 plants, to encourage their growth. 
 
 Sow cos, cabbage, Cilicia, and brown Dutch lettuces, in the 
 beginning and middle of the month •, and towards the latter end 
 for fucceftion crops the fame autumn, and fpr winter fupply, 
 and to hand the winter for early fpring and fummer ufe. Plant 
 and thin lettuces of forrper fo wings a foot diilance. 
 
 Onions being now full bulbed, and come to their mature 
 growth, ihould be pulled up in dry weather and fpread in the 
 full fun to dry and harden, for a week ora fortnight, frequently 
 turning them to ripen and harden equally for keeping. Then 
 clear them from the grofs part of the ftalks and leaves, bottom 
 fibres, anyloofe outer ilcins, earth, &c. and thenhoufe them on 
 a dry day. 
 
 Sow winter onions both of the common bulbing and Welch 
 kinds, for the main crops to ftand the winter, to draw young 
 and green, fome for ufe in that feafon, but principally for 
 fpring fupply ; and fome of the common onions alfo to ftand 
 for early bulbing in fummer. The common onion is 
 mildeft to eat, but more liable to be cut off by the froft than 
 the Welch onion; This never bulbs, and is of a ftronger hot 
 tafte than the other, but lp hardy as to ftand the fevereft froft. 
 
 Potatoes may now be dug up for ufe in larger fupplies than 
 laft month, but principally only as wanted, for they will not 
 yet keep good long, from their not having attained their full 
 growth^ 
 
 Saw an autumn crop of radifhes, both of the common ftrort 
 top and falmonkind. Likewife turnip-radifh both of the fmall 
 white, and the red, for autumn, and the principal crop of 
 black Spanilh for winter; and hoe the laft fown to fix inches 
 diftance. 
 
 Sow the prickly feeded, or triangular leaved fpinach, for the 
 main winter crop, and for next fpring, that fort being the 
 hardeft to ftand the winter. Sow fome in the beginning, but 
 none towards the latter end of the month, each in dry-lying 
 rich ground expofed to the winter fun 
 
 3 G a 
 
 Hoe 
 
420 SUPPLEMENT. 
 
 Hoe the laft (owed turnips eight inches diftant in the garden 
 crop; but large forts in fields or extenfive grounds, muft be 
 thinned ten or twelve inches or more. 
 
 Be particularly attentive to gather all feeds that are ripe before 
 they diffeminate. Many forts will now be in perfection; you 
 mull therefore cut or pull up the ftalks, bearing the feed, and 
 Jay them in the fun to dry, &c. as directed in July. 
 
 September. 
 
 ON this month mull be finifhed all the principal fowings 
 and planting neceffary this year, fome for fucceffional fupply 
 the prefent autumn and beginning of winter, others for 
 general winter fervice ; and fome to (land the winter for next 
 fpring and fummer. For this purpofe, all vacant ground mull 
 be dug up, or occafionally manured, particularly if it is poor 
 and defigned for principal crops. In this month likewife fome 
 watering will be occafionally required, and great care mult be 
 taken to deftroy the weeds. 
 
 Artichokes require no particular culture now, but only to 
 break down the fruit Item clofe, according as the fruit is ga¬ 
 thered, and hoe down the weeds among them. 
 
 Give an autumn dreffing to all aromatic plants, by cutting 
 down decayed ftalks or flower fterns; clear the beds from 
 weeds, and dig between fuch plants as will admit of it, or dig 
 the allevs, and drew fome of the earth over the beds. 
 
 Afparagus now requires only the large weeds cleared out till 
 next month when the ftalks muft be cut down, and the beds 
 winter-drefl'ed. Forced afparagus for the firft winter crop may 
 be planted in hot-beds at the latter end of this month, under 
 frames and glafles, to cut in November; and by continuing to 
 plant fucceffional hot-beds, every month, it may be obtained in 
 conftant fupply all winter and fpring, till the produ£tion of the 
 natural crops in May. 
 
 Cauliflowers of laft month’s fowing, intended for next year’s 
 early and main fummer crops, fhould now be pricked out in 
 beds, three or four inches diftance, watered, and to remain till 
 October, then fome of them to be planted out under hand-* 
 glafles, &c; 
 
 Plant out more celery in trenches ; and earth up all former 
 planted crops, repeating it once a week, two, three, or four 
 inches high or more. Plant out likewife full crops of the two 
 laft months fowing of coleworts, a foot diftance, for winter and 
 fpring fupply. Alfo endive for fucceffional crops, in a dry 
 warm fituation, a foot diftance. 
 
 You may begiflito dig up horfe-radifh planted in the fpring, 
 but it will improve in its fize by continuing longer in the 
 
 ground. 
 
SUPPLEMENT. 421 
 
 grojind, and will be in greater perfection next year at this 
 time. 
 
 Gather feeds very carefully, according as they ripen, fuchas 
 lettuce, leeks, onions, cauliflowers, radifhes, &c. and fpread 
 them in-the fun to dry and harden. 
 
 Hoe in dry weather with diligent attention, todeftroy weeds 
 between all crops, and on vacant ground where ever they ap¬ 
 pear, cutting them clofe to the bottom within the ground, and 
 the large or feedy weeds rake off. 
 
 Potatoes will now be advanced to tolerable perfection for 
 taking up in larger fupplies than heretofore ; but not any ge¬ 
 neral quantity for keeping, for they will continue improving 
 in growth till the latter end of next month. 
 
 Plant various kin$ls of herbs by rooted plants, root off-fets, 
 flips off, and parting the roots, as forrel, burnet, tanfey, fage, 
 thyme, tarragon, favory, mint, penny-royal, fennel, camo¬ 
 mile, See. 
 
 Mufhroom beds muff now be made for the principal fupply 
 at the end of autumn and winter, this being a proper feafon 
 for obtaining plenty of good fpawn, as explained in July. The 
 bed muft be formed and fituated thus : Mole it in a dry fhel- 
 tered fituation in the full heat of the fun. Let it be four or 
 five feet wide at bottom, in length from ten, twenty, or thirty, 
 to forty or fifty feet, or more, and four or five feet high, nar¬ 
 rowing on each fide gradually till they meet at top, in form of 
 the roof of a houfe, that it may more readily fhoot off the fall¬ 
 ing wet, and keep it in a dryifh temperature. In a fortnight or 
 three weeks, or more or lefs, when the great heat of the bed is 
 reduced, and become of a very moderate warmth, the fpawn is 
 there to be planted,- in fmall lumps, inferted into both fides of 
 the bed juft within the dung, five or fix inches diftance, quite 
 from bottom to top, beating it down fmoothly with the back of 
 a fpade, then earth the furface of the bed all over with fine 
 light mould, an inch or two thick. Cover it with dry ftraw or 
 litter, after it has flood a week, to defend the top from rain. 
 Let it be covered only half a foot thick at firft, and increafe it 
 by degrees till it is double that thieknefs. This will finifh the 
 bufinefs, retaining the covering conftantly on the bed night and 
 day. In a month or fix weeks it will begin to produce mufh- 
 rooms, which will be foon followed by an abundance. 
 
 October. 
 
 THIS is the laft month for finifhing all material fowing and 
 planting before winter. A few articles only are to be fowed, 
 but feveral planted and pricked, fome for winter fupply, and 
 others to fland the winter for early and principal crops, next 
 
 fpring 
 
422 SUPPLEMENT. 
 
 fpring and fummer. At this feafon likeWife feverai prefect 
 crops will require to have a thorough clearing from all autum¬ 
 nal weeds ; others earthing up, and fome a peculiar wiiiter- 
 dre fling. 
 
 Sowing is now required in only three articles for early prp- 
 dudlion next fpring and fummer, viz. peas, lettuces, and ra- 
 difhes *, and fmall fallading for prefent fupply. 
 
 Planting rauft now be completely finiftied in all or moft of 
 the following crops : celery, endive, cabbage-coleworts, cauli¬ 
 flowers, brocoli, borecole, garlic, fhalots, rocombole, mint, 
 balm, beans, &c. and feverai plants for feed, as cabbage, 
 favoys, carrots, onions, parfnips, red-beet, turnips, &c. 
 
 Aromatic plants in beds and borders, fhould now have a 
 thorough cleaning and drefling, if not done in the preceding 
 month, cutting away all decayed {talks of the plants, hoeing off 
 all weeds, digging between fome that Hand diftant, others clofe 
 growing, and fpreading earth ftom the alleys, over the furface 
 of the plants. 
 
 Jerufalem artichokes may now be dug up for ufe, and to¬ 
 wards the latter end of the month all may be taken up for keep¬ 
 ing in fand the winter. 
 
 Cut down the items of the afparagus in the beds of lait 
 fpring, hoe off the weeds, dig the alleys, and fome of the earth 
 over the beds. 
 
 Plant out, finally, fome of the itrongeft cabbage plants 
 fowed in. Auguft, two or three feet diftance, or fome clofer 
 to cut young. Plant alfo for coleworts a foot diftance for 
 fpring. 
 
 Your main fpring-fowed crop of carrots being now arrived 
 at full growth, take them up towards the latter end of the 
 month, for keeping in fand all winter. Cut the tops off clofe, 
 cleared from earth, and when quite dry, let them be carried 
 under cover, and placed in dry fand, or light dry earth *, a 
 layer of fand and carrots alternately. Young carrots of the 
 autumn fowing in July and Auguft, clear from weeds, and 
 thin where too clofe ; the former fowing for prefent ufe, 
 or young winter carrots; the latter for fpring. Large carrots 
 for feed, plant in rows two feet diftance. 
 
 Manure your ground, where it is required, with rotten dung 
 of old hot-beds, &c. efpecially where the hand-grafs crop of 
 cauliflowers, and early cabbages, are intended. Dig ground 
 for prefent planting with the proper crops of the feafon, and 
 alfo at opportunities, ridge vacant ground to lie fallow, and 
 improve for future fowing and planting. 
 
 Continue to tie up full grown plants of endive, in dry wea¬ 
 ther, 
 
SUPPLEMENT. 423 
 
 ther^ every Week to blanch. Plant endive for the laft late crop, 
 in a warm border to Hand till fpring. 
 
 Hoe cabbages* colewo'rts* brocoli, favoys, and turnip-cabbage, 
 cutting up clean all the weeds, and drawing earth to the Items 
 of the young plants, Likewife hoe winter fpinach, thin the 
 plants, and deftrov all the weeds. 
 
 Horfe-radifh is now at full growth to be dug up for ufe as 
 wanted, by trenching along each row to the bottom of the up¬ 
 right roots, cutting them off clofe to the bottom, leaving the 
 old ftools for future produ&ion. 
 
 Lettuces of the two laft months fowing muft now be planted 
 in warm fouth borders, or in fome dry corner {heltered from 
 the eafteriy winds, five or fix inches diftance, to ftand for next 
 fpring, and an early fummer crop. 
 
 Mulhroom beds may be made ftill with good fuccefs, if 
 not done laft month. For the method obferve as there di¬ 
 re £ted. 
 
 Parfnips being now at their full growth, dig up a quantity, 
 and lay them in fund, in the fame manner as directed for 
 carrots. 
 
 Potatoes, whieh have now arrived at their full growth, may 
 be aft dug up, and houfed in fome dry clofe place, thickly 
 covered with ftraw, from the air and moifture, to keep all win*, 
 ter, till fpring or fummer 
 
 The winter crop of fpinach lhould now be well cleared from 
 weeds, by hoeing or hand-weeding, and the plants thinned, 
 where too thick, to four inches diftance, or left clofe, and thin¬ 
 ned out wanted for ufe, now and in winter, <kc. 
 
 Seed plants of feveral forts lhould now be planted, as cab¬ 
 bage, favoys, of the full cabbaged divelted of tire large leaves, 
 ,and put in by trenching them down to their heads, two feet 
 diftance, as alfo carrots, parfnips, turnips, and red-beet, all of 
 full growth ; cutting the tops off near the crown, and planting 
 them two feet diftance, with the heads one or two inches under 
 thefurface of the earth. Alfo the largeft dried onions planted 
 in rows the fame diftance by a foot in the row, and three or four 
 inches deep over the crowns. 
 
 November. 
 
 THE only articles to be foWed this month are, a few early 
 peas, and fome fmall fallading, and that only where required to 
 be had in continuance. Planting is requifite principally only 
 to finilh what was omitted laft month, and for fome early beans ; 
 and, in hot-beds, afparagus, mint, &c. Digging and dung¬ 
 ing the ground muft be attended to for the benefit of future 
 crops. 
 
 Aromatic 
 
424 SUPPLEMENT. 
 
 Aromatic plants in beds and borders fhould now, if before 
 omitted, have the laft thorough cleaning from weeds and.litter, 
 and the beds dreffed to remain in decent order for the winter. 
 
 Cabbage plants, if not planted laft month for the early crops 
 next fpring and fummer, muft be planted now. They mu ft 
 be of the early kinds, and planted in rows, one, two, or three 
 feet diftance. 
 
 Earth up the different crops of celery when dry; and let 
 thofe of full growth be earthed up almoft to the top. Finifh 
 planting celery for the late fpring crop in (hallow trenches. 
 
 Dig vacant ground one or two fpades deep, and if dunged, 
 dig it in a fpade deep, laying the ground in rough ridges to 
 improve by the weather, till wanted for fowing and planting 
 ■with future crops. 
 
 Dig up fome roots of horfe-radifh to preferve in fand, that it 
 may be ready for ufe when that in the ground is frozen up. 
 Do the like by Jerufalem artichokes, which are now in their 
 full perfe<ftion. 
 
 Defend your mufhroom-beds night and day with dry draw, 
 or long dry ftable litter a foot thick ; and put mats over all as a 
 fecurity againft rain and cold. 
 
 Sow more early hotfpur peas, or for the firft crop-, and if 
 fome are fown twice this month, there will be a better chance 
 of fuccefs in their fucceeding each other; each fowing to be 
 on a fouth border: a fingle drill may be clofe to the wall, See. 
 others in crofs rows a yard afunder. 
 
 Sow fome early fhort-topped radifties on a fouth border; 
 cover it with ftraw two inches thick till they come up, after¬ 
 wards on nights, and froft, to have the chance of drawing a 
 few early. Sow likewife fmall fallading, as creffes, muftard, 
 and rape, under glaffes, or in a hot-bed. 
 
 Finifh deftroying weeds, in all parts by hand and hoe ; beds 
 of fmall plants, as onions, &c. carefully hand-weed: in other 
 compartments eradicate them by hoe in dry days, and rake or 
 fork off the large weeds after hoeing, or let them be beat about 
 and Ioofened effe&ually, fo as not to grow again. 
 
 December. 
 
 THE principal bufinefs to be done in the kitchen-garden 
 this month is, dunging and digging the ground, and laying it 
 in ridges to enrich, for fowing and planting after.Chriftmas 
 with fome principal early and general crops, for the enfuing 
 fpring and fummer; and to colledf and prepare dung for hot¬ 
 beds, and earthing.and-tying up plants to blanch. 
 
 The only articles requifite to be fown are, peas and radiflies 
 on warm borders, and radifhes and fmall fallading in hot-beds, 
 o Dtefs 
 
SUPPLEMENT. 425 
 
 Drefs your artichoke-beds by firft cutting down any remain¬ 
 ing ftems, and the large leaves dole : then dig the ground be* 
 tween the plants, railing the earth ridgeways along the rows 
 on both Tides, over the roots, and dole about the plants, quite 
 to the central leaves, to preferve the roots and crowns more 
 Tecurely from froft, till fpring. 
 
 Pay diligent attention to your afparagus hot-beds, to keep 
 up the heat of the beds by linings of hot hung, and to admit 
 air in mild days till the plants come up, by opening the glades 
 two or three inches behind j but (hut them clofe on nights, and 
 cover the glades with mats. 
 
 Take up your red-rooted beet on a dry day, and let them be 
 placed in fand, &c. under cover for ufe, in cafe of hard froft. 
 
 Hoe earth to the ftems of your borecole andbrocoli on a dry 
 day. Alfo to cabbages of the autumn planting for winter. 
 
 In all moderate weather give air to your caulidower-plants 
 in frames and hand-glades, by taking off the frames occafion* 
 ally, or always, when dry and mild ; or if wet, kept on and 
 tilted on the north dde two or three inches ; but fliut clofe 
 every night, in froft, &c. Pick off all decayed leaves, and 
 deftroy dugs, if any infeft the plants; and in rigorous froft 
 cover the tops of the glades, and round the ddes, with ftrong 
 ftraw litter. 
 
 If any cucumbers are in hot-beds of the autumn fowing or 
 planting, they fhould have the beds continued of a proper heat 
 iupported by lining the fides with hot dung. 
 
 Whatever vacant ground you have, dig it in ridges, trench 
 ways, two fpades adde, and one or two fpades deep, See. If 
 dunged, dig in the dung but one fpade, laying each trench in a 
 rough ridge, to remain for future cropping, that it may irp* 
 prove by the weather, and be ready for levelling down expedi- 
 tioudy for the reception of feeds and plants. 
 
 Earth up plants, as celery and cardoons, in dry open wea¬ 
 ther, to blanch them ; and continue to tie up the leaves of full— 
 grown endive plants every week, in dry open weather, to make 
 them white and tender. 
 
 Hot-beds diould now be made for raidng fuch early crops as 
 may be required ; making them of the beft hot dung, a yard, 
 or three feet and a half high for afparagus and cucumbers ; and 
 for other articles two feet or two and a half, all of which 
 muft be defended with frames and glades, and earthed with 
 rich dry mould, bx or eight inches thick. 
 
 Give full air, in all moderate weather, to lettuces in frames, 
 taking off the glaffes every dry mild day, keeping them on 
 when much rain, and tilted behind. Keep them clofe covered 
 every night, and in fevere weather: and in very rigorous frofts 
 
 No. XII. 3 H - cover 
 
426 SUPPLEMENT. 
 
 cover them alfo with ftraw litter. Pick off all decayed leaves 
 
 from the plants, and deftroy the flugs that annoy them at this 
 
 feafon. 
 
 Plant fome ftrong plants of cos and cabbage lettuce, from 
 frames or borders, into a hot-bed under fhallow frames for the 
 plants to be near the glaffes, keeping the glaffes on conflantly, 
 and give them air every mild day. By this treatment they will 
 cabbage early. 
 
 Keep your mufhroom beds well covered with dry ftraw to 
 fhelter them from rain, fnow, froft, &c. and if the covering 
 {hould be wet from heavy rain or fnow, remove it, and place 
 it dry near the bed. Examine twice a week to gather the 
 rnulhrooms while young, taking the opportunity of a dry day to 
 turn the covering off. Gather the mufhrooms of the fize of 
 buttons, and all of larger growth, detaching them by a gentle 
 twift clean to the root; after which cover the bed again imme¬ 
 diately. 
 
 It is natural for frofty weather to prevail at this time, and in 
 which fome particular bufiriefs requires attention, fuch as when 
 the ground is frozen hard, to wheel in rotten dung for manure, 
 and frefh horfe liable dung for hot-beds; alfo proper earths 
 and rotten dung for compofts ; and in fevere frofty weather, to 
 give good attention to all tender plants in frames, glaffes, bor¬ 
 ders, &c. as cauliflowers, lettuce, and radifhes, feeing they 
 are fecurelv protected by a proper covering of ftraw or mats 
 during the rigour of the froft. 
 
 Practical Remarks on the Culture of Potatoes . 
 
 THE recommendations lately publifhed for cultivating the 
 growth of this whoiefome vegetable occafions the following re¬ 
 marks ; which, if properly attended to, muft be of general 
 benefit to the community. 
 
 It is a fact known almoft to every family, that the potatoes 
 this year (viz. 1799) are for the moft part wrf, and confe- 
 qaently that they iofe much of their flavour, and a confiderable 
 degree of their nourifnment. The principal caufe of this arifes 
 from the manner of planting them ; and the fadl Hands in proof 
 by the difference of the mode of cultivating them in England 
 and Ireland. 
 
 In our After kingdom, the ground is prepared by covering 
 the furface with dung in oblong ridges, about five feet wide, 
 and on this dung, the feed potatoes, cut into proper pieces, 
 are placed at about fix inches afunder. A trencher drain is 
 then dug on each fide, the mould of which is thrown over the 
 feed until the covering becomes about four inches thick 5 and 
 tfius the planting finishes. 
 
 The 
 
SUPPLEMENT. 427 
 
 The benefit derived from this method is, that, let the rain 
 be ever fo inceffant, it falls from the place where the potatoes 
 grow, into the drain, and therefore the vegetable is always dry, 
 even in its very infant {fate ; whereas, from the method ufed 
 here of planting them on the flat , either by the plough or 
 ©therwife, if rain comes, or if the foil is not a very dry one, 
 they partake of the moiliure fo as to make them what is called 
 wet and infipid. 
 
 It may not be improper here to remark, that if the potatoes 
 are, deprived of that coat, which is to preferve them from the 
 impregnation of the water, before they are boiled, it is at lead: 
 twenty to one that they will be wet and infipid. The ikin 
 fhould never be taken off a potatoe until it is boiled. 
 
 To preferve Potatoes. 
 
 In order to guard in fome degree, againit the effe&s of trod 
 upon this ufeful vegetable, we here lay before our readers the 
 mode recommended for their preferyation by the Board of 
 Agriculture. 
 
 It is well known that this valuable root is very apt to be de- 
 ftroyed by froft; we cannot therefore too earneflly recommend 
 it to our agricultural friends and readers, to put their potatoes 
 up in fuch a manner as will fecure them againit all vilk. The 
 molt approved method is, that of digging, in a very dry fpot, 
 trenches fix feet wide, and eighteen inches deep; fpread draw, 
 pile the potatoes up in the Ihape of a houfe, cover tight and 
 clofe with draw, fix inches thick, and then with earth fifteen 
 to eighteen inchestnore, flatted regularly and firmly, and flurp 
 at the top, raifed from three to five feet from the ground. If 
 there fhall be any apprehenfion of moiliure, dig a trench a few 
 yards off, deeper than that in which the roots are laid. The 
 drier they are when thus packed up, the fafer they will be. 
 
 A Compofition to defray Caterpillars, Ants, and other In¬ 
 sect's. Invented by C. Tatin, Seedftnan and Flor fly at 
 
 Paris. 
 
 TAKE of black foap of tbe bed quality, one pound three 
 quarters ; flowers of fulphur, one pound three quarters ; mufh- 
 rooms, of any kind, two pounds; river or rain water, fifteen 
 gallons. Divide the water into two equal parts; pour one part 
 into a barrel, of any convenient fize, which Ihould be ufed 
 only for this purpoie ; let the black foap be ftirred in it till it 
 is diffolved, and then add to it the mulhrooms, after they have 
 been flightly bruifed. 
 
 Let the remaining half of the water be made to boil in a 
 kettle; put the whole quantity of fulphur into a coarfe, open 
 cloth, tie it up with a packthread in the form of a parcel, and 
 
 3 H 2 faften 
 
423 SUPPLEMENT, 
 
 fallen it to a (lone or other weight, of fome pounds, to make 
 it fink to the bottom. If the kettle is too fmall for the feven 
 gallons and a half of water to be boiled in at once, the fulphur 
 mud be alfo divided. During twenty minutes (being the time 
 the boiling fhould continue) dir it well with a dick, and let the 
 packet of fulphur be fqueezed, fo as to make it yield to the 
 water all its power and colour. 
 
 The water, when taken off the fire, is to be poured into the 
 barrel, where it is to be dirred for a (hort time with a dick; 
 which dirring mud be repeated every day till the mixture be¬ 
 comes fetid, and highly offenfive to the fmell. The older and 
 the more fetid the compofition is, the quicker is its operation. 
 It is neceffary to take care to dop the barrel well every time 
 the mixture is dirred. 
 
 When we wilh to make ufe , of this water, we need only 
 fprinkle or pour it upon the plants, or plunge their branches 
 into it; but the bed manner of ufing it is to inje£l it upon 
 them with a common fyringe or fquirt, to which is adapted a 
 pipe of the ufual condru£lion, except that its extremity fhould 
 terminate in a head of an inch and a half in diameter, pierced 
 in the flat part with fmall holes, like pin-holes, for tender 
 plants; but, for trees, a head pierced with larger holes may 
 be ufed. 
 
 Caterpillars, beetles, bed-bugs, aphides , and many other in¬ 
 fers, are killed by a Angle injedlion of this water. Infe£ts 
 which live under ground, thofe which have a hard fhell, hor¬ 
 nets, wafps, ants, &c. require to be gently and continually 
 injedled, till the water has penetrated to the bottom of their 
 abode. Ant-hills, particularly, require two, four, fix, or eight 
 quarts of water, according to the fize and extent of the ant¬ 
 hill, which fhould not be difiurbed till twenty-four hours after 
 the operation. If the ants which fhould happen to be abfent 
 fhould affemble, and form another hill, it mud be treated in 
 the manner before-mentioned. Thus we fhall at lad dedroy 
 them, but they mud not be too much didurbed with a dick ; 
 on the contrary, the injection fhould be continued till, by their 
 not appearing upon the furface of the earth, they are fappofed 
 to be all deffroyed. 
 
 S E C T. VI. 
 
 Ou the MANAGEMENT of the FRUIT-GARDEN, 
 
 January,- 
 
 THE principal bufinefs of this month, with refpedl to the 
 management of the Fruit-Garden and Orchard, confids in pre¬ 
 paring for, and planting fuch fruit-trees as are intended, prun- 
 
SUPPLEMENT. 429 
 
 rng and nailing wall and efpalier trees in general, and ftandard 
 trees, where neceflary, and in preparing to force fruit-trees on 
 hot walls for early fruit. 
 
 Planting mull be performed only in open weather, and prin¬ 
 cipally the hardieft forts, fuch as apples, pears, plumbs, cher¬ 
 ries, quinces, mulberries, barberries, goofeberries, currants, 
 and rafpberries ; and if the weather fhould happen to be very 
 mild, you may plant peaches, ne£tarines, and apricots. 
 
 Borders for wall trees and efpaliers mud; be well trenched 
 two fpades deep ; or previoufiy, if the foil is poor, apply a good 
 fubftance of rotten dung. Where ftandards are defigned, if 
 improvement in the foil is required, perform it as before-men¬ 
 tioned, in thofe places where the trees are to Hand, to the 
 width of four or five feet, or more. 
 
 Young trees may be had at public nurferies, either of one, 
 two, or three years old, being proper ages for general plant¬ 
 ing, or fuch as are more advanced and trained to a bearing 
 ftale for immediate bearers ; paying particular attention that 
 they are taken up with their full fpread of roots as entire as 
 poflible. Prune broken parts and long ftragglers, and any very 
 irregular branch in the head. When you plant them, dig a 
 wide aperture two or three feet over, and one deep, or more 
 or lefs according to the fize of the roots; which in planting 
 make fpread equally every way; fill in regularly about them 
 with earth from three or four to five or fix inches over the 
 uppermoft roots ; and tread it evenly and gently thereto ; firft 
 round the outfide, then gradually towards the middle, and 
 elofe round the ftem of the tree 
 
 Peaches, nedlarines, apricots, and other wall-fruit, mud 
 now be pruned. They bear moftly on the young wood pro¬ 
 duced the year before, and of which a general fupplyof the 
 molt regular placed muft now be every where retained at pro¬ 
 per diftances, for fuccefiional bearers, or for new wood occa¬ 
 sionally for multiplying the branches. When pruned, nail 
 them to the wall, four or five inches afunder. 
 
 Prune vines, which bear only on the young wood ; the laft: 
 fummer {hoots are the proper bearers : retain a general fupply 
 at regular diftances, prune out the. fuperabundant, with part 
 of moft of the laft year’s bearers, and naked old wood, cut 
 down lefs or more, fo that a young (hoot terminate each branch; 
 and {horten the referved fhoots, the fmaller to three or four 
 joints, and ftrong ones to five or fix. Nail the vines to the 
 wall as foon as pruned, arranging the general branches and 
 {hoots from eight to ten or twelve inches diftance. For this 
 purpofe, have ftireds of cloth, or cloth lifting cut in a neat 
 jnanner, half an inch broad, and two or three long, with which, 
 
430 S U P P LEM ENT. 
 
 and proper n^ils, let the principal branches be nailed horizon¬ 
 tally ftraight, and at equal'diftances. 
 
 Prune apples, pears, plumbs, and cherries, on walls and 
 espaliers. Alfo currants and goofeberries againft walls, cut¬ 
 ting out any crofs-placed, or too crouded branches, worn-out 
 bearers, and decayed wood, together with the fuperfiuous la¬ 
 teral (hoots, retaining lower ones in vacancies, and nail all the 
 branches in regular order. Cut out all the old Items of rafp- 
 berry fhrubs to the bottom, leaving three or four of the ftrong- 
 eft young ones on each ftool: (liorten them at top, and cut 
 away all the others. 
 
 Prune orchard trees, cutting out crofs-growing and confuted 
 branches: thin fuch as grow too clofe together in a crowded 
 manner, and reduce very long branches within narrow limits. 
 
 February. 
 
 PREPARE the ground for planting, by proper digging and 
 trenching, and improving it with dung, frelh loam, or com¬ 
 port, where required, either generally or to where the trees are 
 to (land, both for wall-trees, efpaliers, and ftandards, or a 
 comport of good loam, common earth, and rotten dung toge¬ 
 ther, is excellent for fruit-tree borders. See. 
 
 General planting of fruit-trees may now 1 ?e performed in 
 open mild weather, but particularly thofe forts mod required. 
 It is of much import to have good varieties of the refpe&ive 
 fruits •, for in moft fpecies of fruit-trees, they furnilh many 
 different varieties, and a moderate fupply of the beft is more 
 eligible than a large collection of all forts indifferently : it, 
 however, is materially advifeable to be careful to have a feleCt 
 collection of the moft approved varieties only for the fupply of 
 a family 5 as the beft are as eafy of culture as the moft indif¬ 
 ferent forts; and if to be purchafed, there is no material dif¬ 
 ference in the prices *, though in extenfive premifes, fome may 
 choofea full collection of all the principal varieties ; but in final! 
 or moderate departments, have only the moft noted or choiceft 
 kinds; and in all of which have a fufficiency of fuch eligible 
 varieties, that ripen or acquire maturity in fucceffive order 
 from the earlieft to the lateil period, in their refpeCtive feafons 
 of perfection. 
 
 Standard-tree planting, in any kind of fruit-trees, may now 
 be performed in open weather, in gardens, orchards, See. prin¬ 
 cipally of apples, pears, plumbs, cherries, for the main collec¬ 
 tion, efpecially moft of the two former, for family fupply du-r 
 ring the courfe of the year. Plant the trees from twenty or 
 thirty to forty ,or fifty feet diftance; the moderate growers 
 plofer in proportion, fuch as the codlin, common cherry-tree, 
 
 plumb 3 
 
SUPPLEMENT. 431 
 
 plumb, -quinces, medlars, filberts, barberries, almond, dam- 
 fon, &c. alfo apples and pears, on moderate growing (locks. 
 Dwarf dandards, with low (terns, from one to two or three 
 feet, may be planted in borders, See. fifteen or twenty feet 
 didance, in different fpecies and varieties; they will effect an 
 agreeable diverfitv both in growing and bearing. 
 
 Have all fruit trees for planting dug up with full roots : and, 
 at planting, prune any long draggling roots, and broken or 
 bruifed (hoots from the dems of the trees, and in young trees, 
 having their fird (hoots of but a year old from grafting or bud¬ 
 ding entire, leave in that date till next month, then to be 
 headed. In thofe more advanced with trained or fuller heads, 
 cut away only any ill-grown or crofs-placed branches or (hoots, 
 or prune thinner any that are too numerous or crouded, or any 
 very luxuriant produflions; and in the wall and efpalier tree 
 kinds, prune out all fore-right or projecting (hoots, &c. after¬ 
 wards when planted give further pruning as required. 
 
 Prune vines in the order as directed laft month ; a fupply of 
 the young (hoots of lad dimmer are to be retained in all parts 
 for next iummer’s bearers, the red cut out with part of the 
 former bearers, and naked old wood, the young dioots (hort- 
 ened to three, four, five, or fix joints, and the branches and 
 fhoots all nailed in clofe, draight, and in regular ord£r to the 
 wall, horizontally or upright, according to room, or allotted 
 fpace of walling ; eight, ten, or twelve inches didance. 
 
 Prune goofeberries and currants where required to keep the 
 heads moderate, and the branches thin to obtain large fruit. 
 Plant cuttings and fuckers of goofeberries and currants, for 
 new plants. 
 
 Prune rafpberries in proper order, and make new plantations 
 of them where required. 
 
 March. 
 
 FINISH the principal planting and pruning of all kinds of 
 fruit-trees as early in the month as poflible, as the trees will 
 now be advancing in their blofiom, and (hoot buds. 
 
 Ground for planting (uch as borders for wall and eipalier 
 trees, &c. not yet completed in its neceiTary preparation, (hon’d 
 now be done early in the month. 
 
 Planting fruit-trees may dill be performed with all definable 
 fuccefs, both for wall-trees, efpaliers, and ftandards; but it is 
 advifeable to finiflr that bufinefs by the middle or end ct the 
 month; if fooner the better, that the trees may have time to 
 drike good roots before the heat of dimmer commences. 
 
 In planting the different fruit-trees, obferve'the proper dif- 
 fcances, both for wall-trees, efpaPers, and dandards; and give 
 
 each 
 
/ 
 
 432 SUPPLEMENT. 
 
 each a good watering to the earth to fettle it clofe about the 
 roots and fibres, and to promote their taking frefh root. 
 
 Pruning fhould be entirely finifbed this month, in all wall 
 and efpalier trees ; and alfo to ftandards where needful. 
 
 Shelter wall-trees in bloflom in frofty weather, of apricots, 
 peaches, the early, and fome principal kinds, by nailing up 
 large mats before the trees of nights, in {harp frofts •, or occa- 
 fionally of days, when the froft is fevere, and no fun,- to pro- 
 tedb the young fruit now in embrio, and its generative organs 
 in the center of the flower. Or you may defend them while in 
 bloom, by finall cuttings of evergreens, furnifhed with leaves, 
 as yew, laurel, fir, &c. ftuck between the branches, fo as the 
 leaves may afford protection to the bloflom ; and to remain 
 conftantly till the fruit is fet, and paft all danger from froft. 
 
 Plant, for training, young year-old fruit-trees, as peaches, 
 nectarines, and apricots, againft walls, or palings; likewife 
 young apples, pears, plumbs, cherries, &c. 
 
 Train young wall and efpalier trees, now in their firft or 
 fecond year’s {hoots; pruning out fore-right and crofs-placed 
 {hoots, &c. and in peaches, nettarines, apricots, and vines, 
 (horten the remaining {hoots more or lefs, to obtain a further 
 fupply of wood and fhoots for bearers; but in apples, pears, 
 plumbs, cherries, if well furnifhed with fecond and third year’s 
 branches, leave moftly intire, only cutting fhort any middle 
 (hoots in the vacancies, to force out laterals in fummer to fup¬ 
 ply the deficiencies; and as foon as pruned, train in all the 
 branches horizontally to the wall, and efpaliers at regular 
 di dances. 
 
 Fig-trees finifh pruning and planting as direded in February. 
 Propagate figs by layers, cuttings, and fuckers of the young 
 (hoots. 
 
 Finifh pruning and planting vines the beginning of the 
 month, if not done, as they bleed exceedingly by late cutting. 
 Plant vine cuttings of the young {hoots, two or three joints 
 long, inferted in the ground to the uppermoft eye or bud. 
 
 Plant fuckers and cuttings of the leveral forts of fruit-trees, 
 that produce them, for new plants and docks to bud and graft 
 upon. 
 
 Perform grafting now on apples, pears, plumbs, cherries, 
 quinces, medlars, fervices 5 this being the proper feafon for 
 that operation. 
 
 . April. 
 
 IN this month muft be completed all remaining planting and 
 winter pruning, and the fummer pruning commence by rubbing 
 off the ufelefs young {hoot-buds of the year.. 
 
 3 Planting 
 
SUPPLEMENT. 433 
 
 Planting alfo, where any ftill remain to be done, fliould be 
 wholly completed in the different forts of wall, efpalier, and 
 ilandard trees ; but particularly the early (hooting kinds, finifti 
 the firft week, and the late kinds as foon as poftible ; they will 
 yet fucceed if well watered at planting, and afterwards once a 
 week till they have taken root. 
 
 Water new planted trees in dry weather moderately, about 
 once a week. 
 
 If any winter pruning is unfinilhed, let it be entirely com¬ 
 pleted the beginning, or by the middle of this month, efpe- 
 cially apricots, peaches, nectarines, figs, vines, plumbs, cher¬ 
 ries, See. 
 
 Young budded and grafted trees diveft of all (boots from 
 the (lock, below the bud or graft. 
 
 Finifti grafting early in the month; apples, pears, and other 
 late (hooting kinds will dill fucceed. 
 
 If any webs of caterpillars now appear on young and other 
 fruit-trees, clear them off before they fpread, to prevent th .3 
 infeCts from devouring the advancing leaves. 
 
 Finifh planting wall and efpalier trees, and winter pruning, 
 early in the month, as alfo ftandards. 
 
 Defend early wall-trees now in bloffom, and young fruit, 
 particularly apricots, peaches, nectarines, and others of the 
 principal kinds; continuing to nail up mats in frofty nights, or 
 with cuttings of evergreens, as directed in March. 
 
 Rub off ufelefs buds in early (hooting wall-trees, as peaches, 
 neCtarines, and apricots: their bud-fnoots will now be ad¬ 
 vancing, rub off clofe the fore-right ones, and others where too 
 numerous, and fuchas are ill-placed, or where not wanted. 
 
 May. 
 
 THE principal bufinefs of this month in the fruit-garden, 
 is to commence the Cummer pruning, by difbudding early ail 
 the fore-right and other ill-placed, and evidently unneceffary 
 (hoots; and to thin the young fruit, where fet in cl afters; 
 likewife to water new planted trees in dry weather. The ope¬ 
 ration of fummer pruning at this early feafon is performed 
 withoufa knife, the buds being tender, the ufelefs growths are 
 moft eafily dilbudded, or detached with the finger and thumb, 
 by rubbing them off clofe to the old wood. Go over peaches, 
 neClarines, and apricots, and rub off all the fore-right and 
 other ill-placed (hoot-buds of the year; likewife difplace, in a 
 thinning order, part of the fuperfluous (hoots where evidently 
 too numerous in any parts of the trees, and the remaining 
 (hoots when of due length train in clofe and regular. Vines 
 likewife, which will be now advancing in numerous (hoots, go 
 over early, and difplace all the improper and ill-placed (hoots of 
 
434 SUPPLE M E N T. 
 
 the year, particularly thofe emitted from the old wood, where 
 not wanted, and the weak and unfruitful draggling ihoots in 
 all parts. 
 
 Wall-trees defended when in bloftbm and fetting their fruit, 
 fhould now have all the covering difcontinued, and removed 
 away. 
 
 Thin wall-fruit, as apricots, peaches, and neCtarines, where 
 fet too thick, or in clufters, retaining the moil promifmg fruit 
 at moderate diltances, from three or four to five or fix inches 
 afunder. 
 
 Water new planted fruit-trees in hot dry weather, giving 
 each about a watering pot of water once a week or fortnight, 
 during this month, or till they have taken good root. 
 
 June. 
 
 THE fruit-tree bufinefs this month, comprehend principally 
 that of fummer pruning or nailing, which now becomes gene¬ 
 ral in all wall and efpalier trees, in the fhoots of the year only, 
 to difplace the irregular and fuperfluous, and train in the regu¬ 
 lar and neceffary fhoots in proper order to the wall and efpalier ; 
 alfo will be required, thinning particular forts of young wall 
 fruit, where fet in clufters ; and in watering late planted trees 
 that {till fhoot reluctantly. 
 
 Begin the fummer pruning of the earlieft {hooting kinds of 
 wall-trees, as peaches, nectarines, apricots, vines, cherries, 
 plumbs, pears, apples, &c. to difplace the fore-right and other 
 ill-placed fhoots, and nail in all the regular placed fide or ter¬ 
 minal fhoots to the wall. 
 
 From fig-trees, advanced in the prefent year’s fummer fhoots, 
 prune out the ill-placed branches, and nail the fide fhoots and 
 terminal ones cloie to the wall. 
 
 Thin apricots, peaches, and neCtarines, where too thick or 
 in clufters, thinning out the fmalleft, and leaving the moft 
 promifing fingly, at moderate diftances, faving the apricots 
 and neCtarines thinned off for tarts. 
 
 Currants trained againft walls, and efpaliers, Sec. diveft of 
 all fuperabundant fhoots, to admit the fun to the fruit, but 
 retain fome belt fide fhoots in the moft vacant parts, and trained 
 in clofe to the wall, &c. 
 
 Goofeberries and currant bufbes in ftandards, if very crouded 
 with fhoots of the year, prune where thickeft, to admit the fun 
 to ripen the fruit with proper flavour. 
 
 Cherry-trees in ripe fruit defend from birds, the fineft forts 
 with nets, particularly the wall cherries, or, occafionally, 
 ftaudard of fome belt kinds. 
 
 . J ULY * . . 
 
 THE principal bufinefs'in the fruit- garden this month, is to 
 give the moft diligent attention to the operation of fummer 
 
 pruning 
 
SU P P L E MEN T. 455 
 
 pruning, and nailing in all wall and efpalier trees, which will 
 It ill in general be greatly required, both in continuance, in the 
 former regulations, and more particularly in thofe not done, to 
 regulate the numerous ihoots of the year, by difplacing thofe 
 improper aud fuperfluous ; and to nail, &c. the young wood 
 in regular order to the wall and efpalier ; and according as they 
 advance in length to train them along clofe, always at their 
 full length all fummer. 
 
 Where the above regulations were commenced in Mayor 
 June, very little will be required at this time but to fallen along 
 the regular {boots in their proper places. 
 
 Thin apricots, peaches, and ne&arirtes, if any are Hill too 
 clofe. 
 
 Regulate and nail vines, they continuing dill to (hoot freely 
 and numerous; difplace the improper fhoOts, and the others 
 continue nailing'in clofe, in a regular manner; by if you may 
 (It or ten the firft fhoots, and thofe above the wall. 
 
 Prune and nail fig-treeS, thefe having now made numerous 
 flrong (hoots : prune out the mod irregular, thin the fuperabuU- 
 dant, and nail in the fide and terminal ones, at all their length. 
 
 Prune apples, pears, plumbs, and cherries, both in erpalrers 
 and wall-trees, cutting out the irregular and fuperabundant, 
 and fallen in the proper fhoots in regular order. 
 
 Prune currants from irregular and croudiilg fhoots of the 
 year, to admit the fun, Sic. 
 
 Defend ripe wall-fruit from birds and infe&s ; the former by 
 nets, the latter by placing phials of drong liquor and water, or 
 water fugared, to emit an odorous fmell to decoy wafps and 
 flies from the fruit. 
 
 Keep rafpberries cleared from all draggling fuckers of the 
 plants, between the rows or at a didance from the main dool, 
 and hoe down weeds ; and if the fruit flroot, draggle about, tie 
 them together moderately. 
 
 Go over wall-trees, &c. every week, to difplace with vour 
 knife ufelefs after-[hoots; and nail the proper fupply clofe ac¬ 
 cording as they fnoot in length ; and to adjuft any that cafuaky 
 project or detach from the wall, keeping the whole always clofe 
 to the wall and efpalier, both to continue a complete regula¬ 
 rity in the trees, and for the better profperity of the fruit. 
 
 August. 
 
 GIVE good attention dill to the different wall and. efpalier 
 trees; the fruit will be well advanced in ripening, and fhould 
 have the proper benefit of the fun to ripen it with peculiar fla¬ 
 vour, by continuing to difplace all ufelefs hung wood, and 
 training in the ufeful and regular-placed clofe to the wall and 
 efpalier. 
 
 Apricots will now, ripen in fulll perfeClion j keep the trees' 
 
 3 I 2 regular 
 
436 ' SUPPLEMENT. 
 
 regular by pruning out any ufelefs uutumnal after-(knots, and 
 nail the others clofe to admit the fun, to give the fruit its pro¬ 
 per flavour. 
 
 Gather ripe apricots before they become too foft and meally 
 tailed ; they are in belt perfection while firm, and a poignant 
 flavour. 
 
 Complete all that remains to be done of fummer pruning in 
 wall and efpalier trees, as in the two lad months; and prune 
 out all ill-placed and unneceflary after-ihoots. 'Train and fal¬ 
 len in all the requifite fupply of proper (hoots clofe to the wall 
 and efpalier in regular order, and as they advance in length 
 without (hortening; both to preferve the neceflary regularity of 
 the trees, to admit the fun and free, air to improve the fupply 
 of young wood to bed perfection ; and for the advanced fruit 
 to have all poflible benefit of the fun to accelerate its ripening 
 an a regular manner, in the fulled date of perfection and rich- 
 13 efs of flavour. 
 
 In vines dill advancing in the fummer (hoots, difplace the 
 Improper, and continue to nail in clofe all the fruit-bearing 
 and other proper (hoots in the mod regular order. 
 
 Efpalier-trees of apples, pears, plumbs, and all other trees 
 an that order of training, dived of all ill-placed, diforderly and 
 Superabundant (hoots, and let the others be trained to the efpa- 
 lier in proper order. 
 
 Defend the choiced forts of wall-fruit ripening, from birds 
 and infeCts; the former by hanging nets before the trees, and 
 the latter by placing phials of fweetened water, &c. to decoy 
 and drown them; fuch as wafps and flies. If annoyed with 
 ants, place cuttings of common, or Spanilh reed, hollowed 
 elder, or any thing of a hollowed pipe-like kind, in which they 
 will harbour and may be dedroyed. 
 
 September. 
 
 AS all principal fummer pruning in wall and efpalier trees 
 was completed in the two or three lad months, nothing mate¬ 
 rial of that operation will now be wanted, except adjudingany 
 diforderly (hoots that projeCt from the wall, or have fprung 
 from their places, or training along any that have extended in 
 length, or to reduce others that have overtopped the walls or 
 run confiderably out of their limited fpace, fo as to keep the 
 -whole in perfeCt regularity, and that the full fun may be ad¬ 
 mitted to ripen the fruit of the feafon, now in mod forts ad¬ 
 vanced to near or full growth. 
 
 Vines mud be particularly attended to, it being the principal 
 ripening feafon of the grapes, which in this country demand 
 every poflible afiidance of the fun, by dill keeping the vine 
 cleared from all improper (hoots, and nail the others along 
 clofe and regular to the wall, to admit the fun’s warmth in 
 
 full 
 
SUPPLEMENT. 437 
 
 fall power, equally to the ripening grapes, that they may ac¬ 
 quire perfection before the cold and wet in autumn commences, 
 and ripen with their peculiar richnefs and flavour. 
 
 Fig-trees, of which the fruit is now at full growth, fliould 
 have all the former trained fummer {hoots continued and nailed 
 clofe to the wall, (till in their full extenfion, to admit all power 
 of the fun to ripen the figs in belt perfection. 
 
 To plumbs, pears, cherries, &c. in wall-trees, give alfo 
 ftill fome attention to difplacing autumnal lateral growths, and 
 to reform irregularities in the general neceflary expanfion: if 
 any are detached from the wall, or extended confiderably in 
 length fince thelaft: regulation, naiJtheni up clofe in regular order. 
 
 To efpalier trees of apples, pears, &c. give any neceflary 
 regulation or adjuftment in difplacing any ufelefs, and tying 
 in the projecting and long extending (hoots as in the wall-trees. 
 
 Wall-fruit that is ripe defend from birds, wafps, and flies, 
 by the means adopted in Auguft. Alfo grapes fully ripe guard 
 from wafps and birds, by putting fome of the belt bunches in 
 bags of fine paper, or rather of thin gauze or crape, that will 
 admit the fun and keep off infeCts, &c. or defend the whole 
 from birds by nailing up nets. 
 
 Ripe fruit will now be general in all wall, efpalier, and 
 ftandard trees, which be careful to gather when in beft per¬ 
 fection before too ripe, efpecially of fome particular forts, as 
 peaches, neCtarines, plumbs pears, 8 c c. for prefent eating. 
 
 Summer apples and pears in perfection gather for prefent 
 fupply, but not for keeping. 
 
 Borders defigned for planting with wall and efpalier trees 
 begin now to prepare by digging, trenching, and manuring 
 with dung, or an addition of frefh loam, where convenient, if 
 the borders are of a light dry temperature, or other unfavour¬ 
 able foil. 
 
 October. 
 
 THE material bufinefs at this time is to give proper atten¬ 
 tion to the gathering of all winter fruits, particularly apples 
 and pears for keeping: and the feveral autumnal fruits for 
 prefent fupply according as they ripen, and in late wall-fruits 
 keeping all the fhoots nailed clofe to admit the full fun, efpe¬ 
 cially grapes ; and likewife to prepare borders, &c. for plant¬ 
 ing wall and efpalier trees and ftandards this month, and any 
 time next, as likewife to commence winter pruning on fome 
 forts of (tone fruit, if the leaves are fallen or decayed. 
 
 Gather apples and pears now of full growth, both of au¬ 
 tumnal eating and winter keeping kinds, all on dry days; and 
 all the autumnal kinds, and thofe defigned for keeping (hould 
 be gathered by hand. Apples are proper both for prefent 
 ufe, and to keep feveral months ; but in the winter pears, few 
 
 are 
 
438 ' SUPPLEMENT. 
 
 are fit for immediate eating, only for dewing, &c. they ripen 
 to perfection as they lie in the houfe, fooner or later, according 
 to the different forts, from next month and December, till 
 March and April, and thofe late ripeners will keep fome till 
 May or June. 
 
 Carry all the forts as gathered into the fruitery or any dry 
 clofe apartment; lay the keeping forts in heaps to difchargo 
 the redundant moiffure; place the different forts feparate, and 
 clofely covered from the air with clean draw a foot or more 
 thick to exclude the external air, by which they will keep bet¬ 
 ter and longer. 
 
 Gather alfo quinces and medlars, fome of the former for 
 prefent ufe and the red for keeping. The medlars are not 
 eatable till they are in a date of decay as it were, foft and but¬ 
 tery; they diould be laid fome every week in moid bran to 
 promote and expedite that peculiar date of perfection. 
 
 To grapes not yet fully ripened, in many late forts, give all 
 podible affiftance by keeping the fhoots nailed in clofe, to ad¬ 
 mit the full fun to all the bunches of fruit; and where any 
 bunches are entangled, difengage them, that they may hang 
 regular in their proper pofition to partake an equal benefit of 
 the fun’s heat to forward the whole to perfection. 
 
 Late ripening peaches, and nedtarines, continuing to come 
 in all this month, particularly peaches, they require the full 
 fun to give them proper flavour ; you diould therefore keep all 
 fhoots of the trees clofely nailed that nothing may diade the 
 fruit to impede its ripening in all podible perfection. 
 
 Planting of fruit-trees may be commenced this month when 
 the leaves begin to decay, not material whether fallen or not, 
 only determining by their decaying date that the trees having 
 terminated their growth for this year, admit of removal. 
 
 Prepare the borders, &c. where intended to plant any trees 
 this or next month, &c. Let borders for wall and efpalier 
 trees be improved where needful, by addition of dung ; and to 
 light, dry, or other unfavourable foils, add a fupply of freflt 
 loamy earth, which will prove beneficial to the places where 
 the trees are to be planted. 
 
 November. 
 
 IN this month finifn gathering any remaining late fruits, 
 prepare for, and forward all intended planting of fruit-trees, 
 being an eligible feafon for tranfplanting mod forts, both for 
 walls, efp alters:, and dandards ; alfo the general operation of 
 winter pruning and nailing, which fltould now be forwarded 
 at all opportunities. 
 
 i * 
 
 Finifh gathering late fruit of apples and pears, grapes, &c. 
 if any remain dill on the trees, which fltould be done the fir A 
 dry days, at the beginning of the month, 
 
 Wall- 
 
SUPPLEME N T. 439 
 
 Wall-tree planting may now be forwarded in apricots, 
 peaches, ne&arines, plumbs, cherries, vines, figs, pears; 
 likewife any defirable apples, to ripen earlier with an approved, 
 flavour*, alfo occafionally mulberries, to obtain larger fruit and 
 fooner ripe,-with flavour improved ; generally allotting a prin¬ 
 cipal fup'ply for fouth walls, particularly of the peaches, nec¬ 
 tarines, apricots, figs, vines ; alfo of the others in a fmaller 
 portion ; others on fouth-weft and eafterly walls, and fome on 
 north expofures, as morello and other cherries, plumbs, and 
 pears. 
 
 Efpaliertree planting perform in apples, pears, plumbs, cher¬ 
 ries, medlars, quinces, &c. all ’which in efpaliers well trained, 
 will produce fruit, fuperior In fize, beauty, and flavour, than 
 ou ftandards ; planting them fifteen or twenty feet diftance. 
 
 .Standard planting may now be performed in all the hardy 
 fruits in their different varieties; as apples, pears, plumbs, 
 cherries, mulberries, medlars, quinces, lervices, filberts, all 
 the hazel-nut tribe, barberries, bullaces, damfons, almonds, 
 walnuts; likewife the Breda and Bruffels apricots in a warm 
 fituation ; all which may be planted in kitchen-gardens, plea- 
 fure-grounds, orchards, &c. allotting always the fiulleft fuppiy 
 of the moil uleful kinds as apples, pears, cherries, plumbs, &c. 
 and planted, from twenty or thirty to forty or fifty feet diftance.- 
 
 Dwarf ftandards, having low Items from half a foot to a foot 
 or two high, with low moderate branches, plant in fmall com¬ 
 partments, ten, fifteen, or twenty feet diftance. 
 
 Winter pruning fiiould now be forwarded in all kinds of 
 fruit-trees, particularly wall-trees, and efpaliers in the general 
 annual regulation, both among the young and old branches ; 
 which general pruning is indifpenfably neceffary in all wall 
 ^nd efpalier trees every year in winter, any time from this' 
 tfionth till March, to preferve their requifite regularity within 
 the limited bound, and their proper fruitfulnefs; and as to 
 ftandard tree pruning, the trees having full fcope for their 
 heads to branch freely all around and above, they only need 
 pruning occafionally to regulate any ill-growing branches, and 
 for which, now or any time in winter is the proper feafon. 
 
 Wail-tree pruning may now be performed in general hi 
 peaches, neflarines, apricots, vines, plumbs, cherries, pears, 
 and mulberries j but as to the fig-tree, it fhould be -deferred 
 till fpring. 
 
 Goofeberries and currants may now be planted of all varie¬ 
 ties in full plantation, or as required ; have hand tome full- 
 headed plants of two or three feet high, to bear the enfuing 
 furrtmer, which may be obtained cheap enough at the nurieries ; 
 planting them in the order before dire&ed. 
 
 Prune goofeberries and; currants, thinning the branches 
 3 where 
 
440 SUPPLEMENT. 
 
 where too crouded, cutting out thofe crofs-placed and decayed; 
 and cut away the fuperfluous lateral (hoots of lad fummer, ex¬ 
 cept in vacant parts. 
 
 Rafpberries may now be planted in full fupply of both red 
 and white kinds, in rooted young (terns, of the ia(t fummer, 
 in rows four feet and a half diftance by a yard in the row, as 
 in the fpring months. 
 
 Prune rafpberries by cutting out all the dead or old (terns, 
 thinning the young to three or four of the bed on each main 
 dool, and (horten them a foot or more at top. 
 
 December. 
 
 THE fruit-tree bufinefs of this month is principally the 
 fame as in the lad; that is, if open weather, to prepare 
 ground where neceffary, to plant with any kind of fruit-trees 
 as may be wanted, or intended for planting this, or the two 
 following months when the weather admits; but for fear of 
 fevere frod it is advifeable to finifh the principal planting early 
 in the month, all however that is intended before Chridmas ; 
 and as to pruning, it may be continued at any time when con¬ 
 venient, all this month. 
 
 Standard-tree planting may be forwarded now in all forts in 
 open weather, as apples, pears, plumbs, cherries, medlars, 
 quinces, mulberries, almonds, walnuts, Sec. both in gardens 
 and orchards, from twenty or thirty to forty or fifty feet didance. 
 
 Wall-tree pruning may be forwarded in peaches, nectarines, 
 apricots, pears, plumbs, cherries, and vines ; and according 
 as each tree is pruned nail the branches horizontally to the 
 wall, four, five, or fix inches didance, in regular order. 
 
 Plant orchard trees where intended, as apples, pears, plumbs, 
 cherries, See. in full dandards, thirty, forty, or fifty feet 
 fquare, to form drait ranges each way, may likewife occafion- 
 ally plant half dandards grafted, Sec. on dwarf docks, in 
 fmall orchards at lefs didances. 
 
 Goofeberries and currants may be planted any time this 
 month in open weather, having them with clean dems and 
 full heads, bearing next year, &c. and either planted in a fingle 
 range round the quarters. Sec. of a kitchen garden, fix or 
 eight feet didance, or in wide crofs ranges, to divide the 
 ground into breaks, from twenty to forty feet wide. 
 
 Efpalier-tree planting may be performed in apples, pears, 
 fifteen or twenty feet, plumbs, cherries, quinces, medlars, fi£* 
 teen feet didance. 
 
 Fruit in the fruitery, confiding of apples, pears, medlars, 
 quinces, examine occafionally, to remove what are decayed or 
 rotten, and keep the whole clofely covered with draw a foot 
 thick or more, to exclude the air and damps. 
 
 INDEX; 
 
I N D E X. 
 
 Page 
 
 A le Poffet 
 
 Almond Soup 
 
 Pudding 
 
 Tarts 
 
 Puffs 
 
 Cheefecakes 
 
 Cuftards 
 
 Cakes 
 
 Burnt 
 
 Amulets 
 
 ofAfparagus 
 Anchovy Sauce 
 Angelica Tarts 
 
 Candied 
 Water 
 Apple Pudding 
 
 Dumplings 
 Pie 
 Tart 
 Fritters 
 Apricot Cakes 
 Jam 
 
 to preferve 
 Dried _ - 
 Marmalade 
 Wine 
 
 Aqua Mirabilis Water 
 Artichokes* to boil 
 Pie 
 
 Bottoms, to fry 
 
 -to fricafee 
 
 -to ragoo 
 
 -to pickle 
 
 to dry 
 
 Artificial Fruit 
 Afparagus, to ragoo 
 
 forced in French 
 Rolls 
 to boil 
 to pickle 
 Aipic Sauce 
 XU. 
 
 298 
 
 165 
 
 202 
 
 305 
 
 207 
 
 210 
 
 215 
 
 25 » 
 
 156 
 ib. 
 116 
 202 
 218 
 
 3J7 
 
 170 
 
 ib. 
 
 188 
 
 180 
 
 W 7 
 
 216 
 
 228 
 
 2 37 
 
 248 
 
 241 
 
 3°8 
 
 3 1C * 
 
 158 
 
 73 
 
 102 
 
 108 
 
 264 
 
 294 
 
 2 53 
 
 108 
 
 111 
 j 58 
 267 
 118 
 
 Page 
 
 B 
 
 Bacon, to cure * 287 
 
 Baking, Rump jof Beef 58 
 
 Leg of Beef ib. 
 
 Calf’s Head 59 
 
 Pig’s ib. 
 
 A Bullock’s Heart 60 
 Cod’s Head . ib. 
 Salmon- 6t 
 
 Carp " ib. 
 
 Eels and Lampreys 62 
 Herrings ib. 
 
 Turbot ib. 
 
 Pike with forcemeat 63 
 
 Mackarel 
 Balm Wine 
 Barbacued Pig 
 Barbel, to flew 
 Barberries, to preferve 
 to pickle 
 Barley Cream 
 Gruel 
 W'ater 
 Bath Cakes 
 Batter Pudding 
 Beef, to roaft 
 
 Rump of, to bake 
 Leg of - - - 
 
 BeefSteaks, to broil 
 Rump of, to flew 
 Steaks ditto 
 to ragoo 
 Coliops 
 Ada-daub 
 Tre,mblant 
 Ada-mode 
 A-la-royal 
 Olives 
 Bouille 
 Portugal 
 
 Surloin of, en Epigram 
 Surloin of, forced 
 
 ! -3 £ 
 
 ib. 
 
 3 11 
 
 1 39 ' 
 
 • 87 
 
 238 
 
 263 
 
 225 
 
 300 
 
 ib. 
 
 214 
 
 463 
 
 5 ^ 
 ib.i 
 ■ 64 
 80 
 ib. 
 104 
 
 128 
 ib. 
 
 129 
 ib. 
 
 13° 
 
 ib. 
 
 * 3 * 
 
 ib. 
 
 ib. 
 
 132 . 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Beef,Round of ditto 
 
 Page 
 
 ib. 
 
 Steaks rolled 
 
 L 33 
 
 A-la-vinegrette 
 
 ib. 
 
 Efcarlot 
 
 ib. 
 
 Steak Pie - 
 
 180 
 
 to collar 
 
 275 
 
 to pot 
 
 280 
 
 Hams 
 
 288 
 
 Hung, to cure 
 
 289 
 
 Dutch 
 
 200 
 
 Surloin of, to carve 
 
 368 
 
 ib. 
 
 Edgebone ditto 
 
 Briflcet ditto 
 
 ib. 
 
 Broth 
 
 20 
 
 Drink 
 
 ib. 
 
 Broth, to keep 
 
 21 
 
 Gobbets 
 
 80 
 
 Beeft Cuflard 
 
 2 IC 
 
 Beet Roots, to pickle 
 
 264 
 
 Bilboquet Fritters 
 
 199 
 
 Birch Wine 
 
 3°9 
 
 Birds, fmall, to pot 
 
 282 
 
 Bifeuit Pudding 
 
 16c 
 
 Bifcuits commpn, to make 
 
 218 
 
 Sponge 
 
 ib. 
 
 Spanilh 
 
 ib. 
 
 Drop 
 
 ib. 
 
 Lemon 
 
 ib. 
 
 Black Puddings 
 
 172 
 
 Caps 
 
 219 
 
 Currant Jelly 
 
 232 
 
 Cherry Brandy 
 
 3<5 
 
 Water 
 
 3 1 9 
 
 Blackberry Wine 
 
 309 
 
 Blanc Mange 
 
 231 
 
 Blanched Cream 
 
 224 
 
 Bloom Sugar 
 
 221 
 
 Boiling Butchers Meat, 
 
 2 5 — 
 
 Calf's Head,ib. Grafs Lamb, 
 
 26 —A Ham, ib.—longues, 
 
 27—Leg of Mutton, 
 
 ib.— 
 
 Lamb’s Head, ib.—Leg of 
 
 Lamb, 28—Haunch or 
 
 Neck . 
 
 of Venifon, ib.-Pickled 
 
 Pork, 29—Pigs Pettitoes, ib. 
 
 BoiHng Poultry , 30— Turkies, 
 ib. — Chickens, 31 — Fowls, 
 ib.—Rabbits or Ducks, 32— 
 Pigeons, ib.—Geefe, 33 — 
 Partridges, ib.—Pheafants, ib. 
 
 Page 
 
 Snipes or Woodcocks, 33 
 Boiling Fijh , 34 —Turbot, ib. 
 Another Way, 35 —Salmon, 
 ib.—Tod refs a whole Salmon, 
 ib.—Cod’s Head, 36 —Whole 
 Cod, ib.—Salt Cod, 37 —Cod 
 Sounds, ib. — Soals, ib.— 
 Trout, 38. —Pike, ib.—Carp, 
 39 —Mullets, ib.—Mackarel, 
 ib.—Herrings, 40 —Floun¬ 
 ders, Plaife and Dabs, ib.— 
 Perch, ib.—Eels, ib.—Stur¬ 
 geon, 41—Turtle, ib.—To 
 drefs a Turtle in the Weft-In- 
 
 dianWay, 42. 
 
 Bombarded Veal - 120 
 
 Boning Geefe or Fowls, note 14 7 
 Bread and Butter Pudding 178 
 Sauce 7 - 116 
 
 Puddirrg - - 162 
 
 to make - 385 
 
 Leaven - 386 
 
 French - 387 
 
 Brewing, Art of - 320 
 
 Bride Cake - 213 
 
 Brocoli, to boil - 158 
 
 Broiling Butcher's - Meat and 
 Poultry , 64—Beef Steaks, ib„ 
 Mutton Steaks, 65 --- Pork 
 
 Chops, ib.—Ox Palates, ib. 
 
 Broiling Chickens, 66—Pige- 
 onss ib. 
 
 Broiling Fijh, 66—Frefh Salmon, 
 ib.—Dried Salmon, 67—Cod, 
 ib.—Crimped Cod,db.—Cod 
 Sounds,68.Trout, ib.—Macka¬ 
 rel,ib.Haddock and Whitings, 
 69—Eels, ib.—Eels, pitch- 
 cocked, ib.—Herrings, 70. 
 
 Brown Gravy - 1x2 
 
 Browning, method of mak¬ 
 ing note - 55 
 
 BurntCream - - 224 
 
 Butter, to make - 399 
 
 to take off any disa¬ 
 greeable tafte from 407 
 to preferve - ib. 
 C 
 
 Cabbage Force Meagre 1 to 
 to boil - 160 
 
 Cabbage 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Cabbage Pudding 
 
 Red, to pickle 
 Cake common, to make 
 Rich Seed ditto 
 Pound 
 Plumb - 
 Bride 
 Rice 
 
 Gingerbread 
 
 Bath 
 
 Shrewfbury 
 
 Portugal - » 
 
 Saffron 
 
 Pruffian 
 
 Queen’s 
 
 Almond 
 
 Little Plumb 
 
 Ratafia 
 
 Apricot 
 
 Orange 
 
 Lemon - 
 
 Currant 
 
 Calf’s Feet, to fricaffee 
 to ragoo 
 Pudding 
 
 Jelly 
 
 Calf’s Head Soup 
 
 to roaft 
 to bake 
 to flew 
 to hafh 
 Pie 
 
 to collar 
 to carve 
 
 Calf’s Brains, to fry 
 Liver ditto 
 Candy Sugar 
 Candying and drying 
 Caper Sauce 
 Capillaire 
 Carmel Sugar 
 Carp to boil 
 to bake 
 to fry 
 to (few 
 Pie 
 
 Carrots, to boil 
 
 Pudding 
 
 Page 
 
 i 6 g 
 
 262 
 
 211 
 
 ib. 
 
 212 
 
 ib. 
 
 213 
 ib. 
 ib. 
 
 214 
 ib. 
 ib. 
 ib. 
 
 21 5 
 ib. 
 ib. 
 
 216 
 ib. 
 ib. 
 
 2-17 
 ib. 
 ib. 
 96 
 104 
 1 67 
 183 
 229 
 11 
 
 5° 
 
 59 
 
 79 
 
 9° 
 
 182 
 
 276 
 
 367 
 
 n o 
 / ~ 
 
 80 
 221 
 247 
 117 
 3 °i 
 
 221 
 
 39 
 
 61 
 
 75 
 
 8; 
 
 193 
 
 161 
 1 78 
 
 Carving, Art of 
 Caflia, Candied 
 Catchup, how to make 
 Caveach, or Pickled Mack 
 arel 
 
 Cauliflowers, to ragoo 
 to boil 
 to pickle 
 
 Celery, to fry 
 Chars, to pot 
 
 Cherries, Morells, to pre- 
 ferye 
 
 Dried 
 
 Wine 
 
 Pie 
 
 Cheefecakes, to make 
 fine ditto 
 Bread 
 Rice 
 Almogd 
 Lemon 
 Citron 
 
 Cheefe, to make 
 Stilton 
 Cream 
 Sage _ 
 
 Sage, in Figures 
 Marigold 
 Imitation of Che* 
 fhire 
 
 Cbeefe-curd Puddings 
 Chefhire Pork Pie 
 Chefnut Pudding 
 Chickens, to boil 
 to roaft 
 to broil 
 to fry 
 to flew 
 v to hafh 
 to fricaffee 
 chiringrate 
 a-la-brafe 
 in Savory Jelly 
 to trufs 
 
 Chinefe Temple or Obelifk 
 in Confe&ionary 
 Chocolate Tarts 
 Puffs 
 Cream 
 
 Page 
 
 aP 
 
 250 
 
 3 8 3. 
 
 271 
 
 109 
 
 1 59 
 
 264 
 
 74 
 
 75 
 
 240 
 
 249 
 
 307 
 
 189 
 
 206 
 ib. 
 
 207 
 ib. 
 ib. 
 ib. 
 ib. 
 
 400 
 
 402 
 
 403 
 ib. 
 ib. 
 
 404 
 
 ib. 
 
 1 77 
 184 
 
 176 
 
 3 r 
 
 • 5 z 
 
 66 
 
 73 
 
 83 
 
 93 
 
 97 
 
 M3 
 
 ib. 
 
 144 
 
 342 
 
 256 
 
 204 
 
 20,5 
 
 226 
 
 ,K 
 
 Citron 
 
/ 
 
 I N 
 
 D 
 
 E 
 
 X. 
 
 
 Pa«e' 
 
 O 
 
 ... c 
 
 
 Page 
 
 Citron Pudding 
 
 176 
 
 Cream Steeple 
 
 ib. 
 
 Cheefecakes 
 
 208 
 
 
 Barley 
 
 225 
 
 Clary Pancakes 
 
 196. 
 
 
 Piftachio 
 
 226 
 
 Wine 
 
 308 
 
 
 Tea 
 
 ib. 
 
 Codlins green, to preferve 
 
 240 
 
 
 Chocolate 
 
 ib. 
 
 to pickle 
 
 '269 
 
 
 Pompadour 
 
 ib. 
 
 Cod's Head, to boil 
 
 3 6 
 
 
 Ratafia 
 
 227 
 
 to roaft 
 
 57 
 
 
 Ice 
 
 ib. 
 
 to bake 
 
 60 
 
 
 Rafpbcrry 
 
 ib. 
 
 to broil 
 
 6 7 
 
 Cucumbers, to ftew 
 
 85 
 
 to flew 
 
 86 
 
 
 to ragoo 
 
 109 
 
 to carve 
 
 3 6 5 
 
 
 to preferve 
 
 247 
 
 Sounds 
 
 37 
 
 
 to pickle 
 
 2 59 
 
 to broil 
 
 68 
 
 
 in flices ib. 
 
 to fricalfee 
 
 S 8 
 
 Cullis 
 
 for all forts of Ragoos 113 
 
 Collaring Venifon 
 
 273 
 
 
 a Family ditto 
 
 ib. 
 
 Breaft of Veal 
 
 274 
 
 
 White 
 
 ib. 
 
 Bread of Mutton 
 
 ib. 
 
 
 for Filh 
 
 114 
 
 Beef 
 
 2 75 
 
 
 for Roots 
 
 ib. 
 
 Calf’s Head 
 
 276 
 
 Curd Puffs 
 
 205 
 
 Pig 
 
 ib. 
 
 Curing Hams 286, 
 
 287 
 
 Eels 
 
 ib. 
 
 
 Bacon 
 
 ib. 
 
 Mackarel 
 
 277 
 
 
 Mutton Hams 
 
 288 
 
 Salmon 
 
 ib. 
 
 
 Veal Hams 
 
 ib. 
 
 Colours for Confeftionary, 
 Method of preparing, 
 2Z0—The different Co¬ 
 lours 
 
 Complete Market-woman, 
 containing directions for 
 the proper choice of e very- 
 kind of Provifion, 346— 
 ConfeCtionary, Art of 
 
 Ornaments in 
 
 Cordial Waters 
 Cow Heel Soup - . 
 to fry 
 
 Cows, method of feeding 
 Cowflip Pudding 
 Crackled Sugar 
 Cray-fifh Soup 
 to ftew 
 Cream Cakes 
 Orange 
 Lemons 
 Hartfhorn 
 Burnt 
 Blanched 
 Whipt 
 Spanilh 
 
 222 
 
 35 8 
 
 221 
 
 2 53 
 
 3 J 5 
 
 *7 
 
 72 
 
 4°5 
 
 177 
 
 221 
 
 *9 
 
 88 
 
 212 
 
 ? 2 3 
 
 224 
 
 ib. 
 
 ib. 
 
 ib. 
 
 225 
 
 ib. 
 
 Beef Hams 
 Neats Tongue 
 Hung Beef 
 Dutch Beef 
 Pickled Pork 
 Mock Brawn 
 Currant Cakes 
 Jam 
 Fritters 
 to preferve in 
 Bunches 
 Pafte 
 to pickle 
 Wine 
 Cullards Plain 
 Baked 
 Rice 
 
 Orange - 
 
 Beeft 
 Pudding 
 D 
 
 Daiyv, Management of 397 
 
 Damfons, to preferve 245 
 
 to dry - 249 
 
 Damfons, Wine 305 
 
 Decorations of the Table 
 
 difplayed 
 
 ib. 
 
 289 
 
 ib. 
 
 290 
 ib, 
 ib. 
 
 2*7 
 
 229 
 
 200 
 
 243 
 
 2 53 
 
 270 
 
 3°3 
 
 209 
 ib. 
 ib. 
 
 210 
 ib. 
 
 164 
 
I N D 
 
 Page 
 
 o 
 
 difplayed, in two differ¬ 
 ent Courfes, for each 
 Month in the Year _ 377 
 
 Defalt Ifland inConfedion- 
 
 ary - 
 
 256 
 
 Devonfhirc Squab Pie 
 
 184 
 
 Diredions for the proper 
 
 
 choice of every kind 
 
 
 of Provifion 
 
 346 
 
 Diredions for preferving 
 
 
 neceffary articles for 
 
 
 Sea 
 
 3 8 3 
 
 Dripping, to preferve, for 
 
 
 long voyages 
 
 3 8 3 
 
 Drop Bifcuits 
 
 218 
 
 Drying and Candying 
 
 2 4 7 
 
 Ducks, to boil 
 
 37 
 
 to roaft 
 
 S 3 
 
 to flew 
 
 8 3 
 
 with Green Peas 
 
 84 
 
 A-la-braze 
 
 145 
 
 A-la-mode 
 
 146 
 
 A-ia-francoife 
 
 ib. 
 
 Pie 
 
 185 
 
 Breeding and ma¬ 
 
 
 nagement of 
 
 39 2 
 
 Dumplins Appie 
 
 170 
 
 Suet 
 
 ib. 
 
 Rafpberry 
 
 ib. 
 
 Yell 
 
 171 
 
 Norfolk 
 
 ib. 
 
 Hard 
 
 ib. 
 
 E 
 
 
 Eel Soup 
 
 19 
 
 Eels, to boil 
 
 40 
 
 to bake 
 
 62 
 
 to broil 
 
 69 
 
 pitchcocked 
 
 ib. 
 
 to fry 
 
 76 
 
 to flew 
 
 88 
 
 to fricaffee 
 
 99 
 
 Pie 
 
 192 
 
 -to collar * 
 
 276 
 
 to pot 
 
 282 
 
 Eggs, to fricaffee 
 
 lOl 
 
 with Onions and 
 
 
 Mulhrooms 
 
 ib: 
 
 with Brocoli 
 
 *57 
 
 #J with Spinach 
 
 ib. 
 
 E X. 
 
 
 
 Egg Sauce 
 
 1 iG 
 
 Elder Buds, to pickle 
 
 238 
 
 Wine 
 
 3 ° 7 
 
 Endive, to ragoo 
 
 109 
 
 EnglHh Sack 
 
 3 H 
 
 Everlafling Syllabub 
 
 234 
 
 “ ' F 
 
 
 Feathered Sugar, to prepare 
 
 22t 
 
 Fennel Sauce 
 
 117 
 
 Fever Water 
 
 318 
 
 Fig Wine 
 
 3 T 4 
 
 Fiih Sauce for Sea 
 
 3 8 3 
 
 Dried, Diredions for 
 
 
 dreffing and keep¬ 
 
 
 ing of 
 
 OO 
 
 co 
 
 Floating llland in Confec¬ 
 
 
 tionary 
 
 2 55 
 
 Florentine Hares 
 
 >54 
 
 Rabbits 
 
 ib. 
 
 Flounders to boil 
 
 40 
 
 to flew - > 
 
 88 
 
 to fricaffee 
 
 IOO 
 
 Pie 
 
 *93 
 
 Flummery 
 
 235 
 
 French 
 
 236 
 
 Green Melon in 
 
 ib. 
 
 Solomon’s Tem¬ 
 
 
 ple in *■ 
 
 ib. 
 
 Forcemeat Balls 
 
 119 
 
 Fowls and Geefe to pot 
 
 280 
 
 to boil 
 
 3 * 
 
 to roaft 
 
 5 * 
 
 to' flew 
 
 82 
 
 to ha(h 
 
 9 2 
 
 a-la-braze 
 
 142 
 
 < forced 
 
 ib. 
 
 marinaded 
 
 3 43 
 
 to trufs 
 
 34 * 
 
 to carve 358, 
 
 359 
 
 Breeding and manage¬ 
 
 
 ment of 
 
 Co 
 
 OO 
 
 OO 
 
 French Barley Pudding 
 
 J 75 
 
 Bread to make 
 
 3 8 7 
 
 Beans to ragoo 
 
 109 
 
 to keep all the 
 
 Year 
 
 294 
 
 Fricado of Veal 
 
 120 
 
 Fricafeeing Butcher's Meat , j 
 
 P oul- 
 
 try , &c. 95. Neat’s 1 onguc s !b. 
 
 Ox Palates, ib.—Sweetbreads, 
 
 brown, 96—Ditto white 
 
 , ib. 
 
 Lamb’s 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Page 
 
 Lamb's Stones, ib. Calf’s Feet, 
 ib.—Tripe, 97—Chickens,ib. 
 Pigeons, ib.—Rabbits white, 
 98—Ditto brown, ib. 
 Fricafeeing Fi/&,&c. Cod Sounds, 
 98—Soals, 99—Eels, ib.— 
 Flounders, 3 00— Skait or 
 Thornback, ib—Oyfters, ib. 
 Eggs, 101.—Eggswith Onions 
 and Mufhrooms, ib— Mufh- 
 Tooms, ib.— Skirrets, 102— 
 Artichoke Bottoms, ib. 
 
 Fritters, plain 
 
 196 
 
 Cuftard 
 
 ib. 
 
 Apple 
 
 197 
 
 Water 
 
 ib. 
 
 White 
 
 ib. 
 
 Hafty 
 
 OO 
 
 <Ti 
 
 T“1 
 
 Royal 
 
 ib. 
 
 Tanfy 
 
 ib. 
 
 Rice 
 
 ib. 
 
 Chicken 
 
 J 99 
 
 Bilboquet 
 
 ib. 
 
 Strawberry 
 
 ib. 
 
 Rafpberry 
 
 ib. 
 
 Currant 
 
 ib. 
 
 German 
 
 ib. 
 
 Fruit in Jelly 
 
 231 
 
 Artificial 
 
 2 53 
 
 to keep 
 
 2 93 
 
 Fruit-Garden, Manage¬ 
 
 
 ment of 
 
 428 
 
 prying Butcher's Meat, 70 —Ve- 
 nifon, ib.—Veal Cutlets, 71. 
 Neck or Loin of Lamb, ib. 
 
 "• Sweetbreads, 72-Calf’s 
 
 Brains, ib.—Beef Steaks, ib. 
 Tongues, ib.—Ox Feet, ib. 
 Tripe, 73 — Saufages, ib.— 
 
 Chickens, ib.-Artichoke 
 
 Bottoms, ib.-Celery, 74, 
 
 Potatoes, ib. 
 
 Frying Fiji, 74—Turbot, ib.— 
 Carp, 75—Tench, ib.—Soals, 
 76—Smelts, ib.—Eels, ib.— 
 Lampreys, 77—Mullets, ib. 
 Herrings, ib.—Oyfters, ib. 
 
 G 
 
 Geefe, to boil - 33 
 
 Geefe, to road 5 2 
 
 to ragoo - 106 
 
 A-lamode - 147 
 
 Pie - - 184 
 
 to trufs - 343 
 
 to carve - 361 
 
 Breeding and ma* 
 nagement of 393 
 
 Geefe and Fowls, to pot 280 
 
 Gerkias,. to pickle 258 
 
 German Fritters 200 
 
 Giblets, to ftew - 83 
 
 Pie - 185 
 
 Soup - 16 
 
 Ginger candied - 250 
 
 Wine - 311 
 
 Gingerbread Cakes - 213 
 
 Golden Pippins, to preferve 241 
 to pickle 269 
 
 Goofeberry Sauce 117 
 
 Jam - 228 
 
 to preferve 244 
 
 Fool - 301 
 
 Wine - 303 
 
 in Imitation of 
 Hops 
 Pafte 
 to keep 
 
 Grenade of Veal 
 Grapes, to preferve 
 to pickle 
 to keep 
 Wine 
 
 Grateful Pudding 
 Gravy Soup 
 Gravies, Cullifes, and other Sau¬ 
 ces, 112—A very rich Oravy, 
 ib.—-Brown Gravy r , ib. — A 
 Cullis for all Sorts of Ragoos 
 and rich Sauces, 113—A Fa¬ 
 mily Cullis, ib.—A white CuL 
 lis, ib.—A Cullis for Fifh,i 14 
 —A Cullis of Roots, ib.—• 
 Ham Sauce, ib.—Eflence of 
 Ham, 115—Sicilian Sauce, ib. 
 Sauce for any kind of roaft 
 Meat, ib. Sauce for moft kinds 
 of Fi(b, 116—Egg Sauce, ib. 
 Bread Sauce, ib.—Anchovy 
 
 Sauce, 
 
 244 
 
 2 53 
 
 2 94 
 
 121 
 
 240 
 
 269 
 
 2 94 
 
 3°7 
 
 178 
 
 9 » 18 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Pa £ e 
 
 Satacefib.—Shrimp Sauce, ib. 
 Oyfter Sauce, ib.—-To melt 
 Butter, 117—Caper Sauce, ib. 
 
 Shalot Sauce, ib.-Lemon 
 
 Sauce for boiled Fowls, ib.— 
 Goafe berry Sauce, ib.—Fen¬ 
 nel Sauce, ib.—Mint Sauce, 
 118—A relifhing Sauce, ib. 
 To crifp Parfley, ib.—Sauce 
 for Wild Ducks, Teal, &c. ib. 
 
 —Pontiff Sauce, ib. — Afpic 
 Sauce, ib.—Forcemeat Balls, 
 119—Lemon Pickle,ib. 
 
 Green Caps - 219 
 
 Peafe to keep till 
 Chriftmas - 293 
 
 Green Gage Plumbs to pre- 
 ferve, 241—Dried 249 
 
 Gruels - 297 
 
 PI 
 
 Page 
 
 ib.—Hares,ib.—Hare jugged. 
 
 94—Venifon, ib- 
 Ha fly Pudding - 168 
 
 Fritters - 198 
 
 Hedge-Hog - 235 
 
 Herb Pudding - 166 
 
 Herrings, to boil - 40 
 
 to bake 62 
 
 to broil 70 
 
 to fry - 77 
 
 Pie - 194 
 
 to pot * - 285 
 
 Hodge Podge - 16 
 
 Housekeeper's Calendar of 
 the various Articles of 
 Provifion for the differ¬ 
 ent months in the year 371 
 Houfe Lamb, fore-quarter 
 of, to roaft - 47 
 
 to ragoo - 104 
 
 Hunting Pudding - 166 
 
 Haddocks to boil 
 
 59 
 
 Hams, to boil 
 
 26 
 
 to roaft 
 
 5 ° 
 
 Effence of 
 
 11 5 
 
 to cure 
 
 286 
 
 the York (hire way 
 
 ib. 
 
 New England ditto 
 
 287 
 
 Mutton 
 
 288 
 
 to carve 
 
 368 
 
 Ham Sauce 
 
 114 
 
 Hare Soup 
 
 18 
 
 Hares, to roaft 
 
 56 
 
 to hafh 
 
 93 
 
 tojugg- - 
 
 94 
 
 Pie 
 
 a 86 
 
 to pot 
 
 2 79 
 
 to trufs 
 
 345 
 
 to carve 
 
 ,362 
 
 Harrico of Mutton 
 
 *34 
 
 ILartfhom Cream 
 
 224 
 
 Jelly 
 
 23c 
 
 Hafbing Butcher's Meat, 
 
 90 — 
 
 Calf’s Head, ib.-—M: 
 
 [need 
 
 Veal, 91—Mutton hafhed, ib. 
 Hafbing Poultry and Game, 92 
 Turkies, ib. — Fowls, ib.— 
 Chickens, 93—Partridge or 
 Woodcocks, ib.—Wild Duck, 
 
 I 
 
 Jam, Rafpberry 
 
 228 
 
 Strawberry 
 
 ib. 
 
 Apricot 
 
 ib.. 
 
 Goofeberry 
 
 ib. 
 
 Black Currant 
 
 22Q 
 
 Ice Cream 
 
 2 2 j 
 
 Icings for Cakes, &c. 
 
 2 29 
 
 Jellies, 529—Calf’s Feet, ib.— * 
 Hartfnorn, 230—Orange, ib. 
 Fruit in Jelly, 231—Blanc¬ 
 mange, ib.—‘Black Currant, 
 232—Ribband, ib. w- Savory 
 
 Jelly, 283 
 
 Indian Pickle - ;>65 
 
 Infects, compofition to de~ 
 ftroy - - 427 
 
 K v 
 
 Kidney Beans, to boil 160 
 
 to pickle 2.5.3 
 
 Kitchen Garden, directions 
 
 for the management of in 
 the various months in the 
 
 Lady Sunderland’s Pudding 176 
 Lamb,Neck or Loin of, to fry 7 7 
 
 Lamb, 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Lamb, Quarter of, forced 
 
 Page 
 
 138 
 
 Pie 
 
 181 
 
 Fore-quarter, to carve 364 
 
 Lamb’s Head to drefs 
 
 27 
 
 Stones to fricaflee' 
 
 9 6 
 
 Bits 
 
 *39 
 
 Chops en Cafarole 
 
 ib. 
 
 Lampreys, to fry 
 
 77 
 
 to flew 
 
 88 
 
 to pot 
 
 283 
 
 Lagaroffa Wine 
 
 3 l 4 
 
 Larks, to roaft 
 
 53 
 
 A-la-Francoife 
 
 153 
 
 to trufs 
 
 315 
 
 Lavender Water 
 
 3*6 
 
 Lemon Pudding 
 
 *73 
 
 Puffs 
 
 204 
 
 Cheefecakes 
 
 208 
 
 Cultards 
 
 210 
 
 Cakes 
 
 217 
 
 Bifcuits 
 
 2 rq 
 
 Cream 
 
 224 
 
 Syllabub 
 
 2 o 4 
 
 Water 
 
 318 
 
 Peel Candied 
 
 2 53 
 
 Wine 
 
 306 
 
 Sauce 
 
 n? 
 
 Pickle 
 
 119 
 
 Tart 
 
 190 
 
 Brandy 
 
 3 1 5 
 
 Lemonade 
 
 3°2 
 
 Lettuce and Peafe, to flew 
 
 8 b 
 
 Livers of Poultry, to ragoo 106 
 
 Lobiter, to roalt 
 
 57 
 
 Pie 
 
 104 
 
 to pot 
 
 284 
 
 Lorraine Soup 
 
 *5 
 
 M 
 
 Macaroni Soup 
 
 11 
 
 Macaroons 
 
 219 
 
 Mackaiel, to boil 
 
 39 
 
 to bake 
 
 63 
 
 to broil 
 
 68 
 
 to collar 
 
 227 
 
 to carve 
 
 366 
 
 Made Difhes of Butcher’s 
 
 Meat, 
 
 x 20—Bombarded Veal, 
 
 ib.— 
 
 Page 
 
 Fricando of Veal, ib. — Veal 
 Olives, 121—A Grenade of 
 Veal, ib. — Porcupine of a 
 Breaft of Veal, 122 — Veal 
 a-la-Bourgeoife, 123 — Calf’s 
 Head Surpril'e, ib.—A Calf's 
 Pluck, 1 24—Loin of Veal in 
 Epigram, ib.—Pillow of Veal. 
 
 ib.--Shoulder of Veal a-la- 
 
 Fiedmontoife, 125 Sweet¬ 
 breads of Veal a-laDauphine, 
 ib.—Sweetbreads en Gordi- 
 neere, 126—A favory Difti 
 of Veal, ib.—Sweetbreads a- 
 ia-daub, 127 — Scotch Col- 
 lops, ib.—Beef Collops, 128 
 —Beef a-la-daub, ib. — Beef 
 Tremblant, 129—Beef a-la- 
 mode, ib. — Beef a-la-royal, 
 130—Beef olives, ib.—Bou- 
 ille Beef, 131—Portugal Beef, 
 ib.—Sirloin of Beef en Epi¬ 
 gram, ib.—The inlide of a 
 Sirloin of Beef forced, 132— 
 A Round of Beef forced, ib. 
 Beef Steaks rolled, 133—— 
 Bceuf a-la-Vinegrette, ib.— 
 
 Beef Efcarlot, ib.-Tongue 
 
 and Udder forced, 134—• 
 Tripe a-la-Kilkenny, ib,— 
 Harrico’ of Mutton, ib.—A 
 
 Bafque of Mutton, ib.- 
 
 Shoulder of Mutton 1 fur- 
 prized, 135. — To drefs the 
 
 Umbels of a Deer, ib.- 
 
 Mutton kebobbed, ib.—Leg 
 of Mutton a - la - haut-gout, 
 136—Leg of Mutton roafted 
 with Oylters, ib.—Shoulder 
 of Mutton en Epigram, ib.—- 
 Sheeps R.umps and Kidneys, 
 
 ib.-Mutton Rumps a-la- 
 
 braife, 137 —Mutton Chops 
 in Difguife, ib.—A Shoulder 
 of Mutton called Hen and 
 Chickens, ib.—Oxford John, 
 138 — A Quarter of Lamb 
 forced, ib.—Lamb’s Bits, 139 
 Lamb Chops en Cafarole, ib. 
 
 Barba** 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Page 
 
 Barbacued Pig, ib. — A Pig 
 an Pere Duillet, 140—A Pig 
 Matelote, ib. 
 
 Made Difhes of Poultry , &c. 
 
 Turkey a-la-daub, 141.- 
 
 Turkey in a Hurry, 142— 
 Fowls a-la-braife, ib.—Fowls 
 forced, ib.—Fowls, marinad¬ 
 ed, 143-Chickens ehirin- 
 
 grate, ib.-Chickens a-la- 
 
 braife, ib.—-Chickens in Sa¬ 
 vory Jelly, 144 — Chickens 
 and Tongue, 145—Pullets a- 
 
 la Sainte Menehout, ib.- 
 
 Ducks a-la-brafe, ib.-—Ducks 
 a-la mode, 146-—Ducks a-la- 
 Francoife, ib.—A Goofe a-la- 
 mode, 147—A Goofe mari¬ 
 naded, ib. — Pigeons Com¬ 
 pote, 141—Pigeons tranfmo- 
 grified, ib. — French Pupton 
 of Pigeons, ib. — Pigeons a- 
 
 la-brafe, 149-Pigeons au 
 
 Poife, ib. -Pigeons a-la- 
 
 daub, ib. — Pigeons Surtout, 
 
 150.--Pigeons a-la-Souflel, 
 
 ib.—Pigeons in a Hole, 151. 
 •—Jugged Pigeons, ib.—Par¬ 
 tridges a-la-bt^le, ib.—Phea- 
 fants, ditto, 152.—Snipes or 
 Woodcocks, in Surtout, 153. 
 Snipes, with Purflain Leaves, 
 ib.—Larks a-la-Francoife, ib. 
 Florentine Hares, 154— - 
 Ditto Rabbits, ib.—Jugged 
 
 Hare, 155-Rabbits fur- 
 
 prifed, ib.—Rabbits in Cafe- 
 role, ib.—Macaroni, 156— 
 Amulets, ib.—Amulets of Af- 
 paragus, ib.—Oylter Loaves, 
 ib.—Muihroom Loaves, ib.— 
 
 Eggs and Brocoli, 157—Spi¬ 
 nach and Eggs, ib. 
 
 Made Wines - 302 
 
 Maigre Soup - 15 
 
 Mangoes, to pickle 257 
 
 Marmalade, Orange 251 
 
 Apricot- ib. 
 
 Quince ib. 
 
 Tranfparent ib. 
 
 Marrow Pudding 164 
 
 Ho, XII, 
 
 Mead Wine 
 Millet Pudding 
 Milk SoCp 
 Mince Pies 
 Mint Sauce 
 Mock Brawn 
 
 Turtle Sc 
 
 Moonlhine in Confediion- 
 ary 
 
 Moor Game, to pot 
 Muffins, to make 
 Mulberry „Wine 
 Mullets, to bbil 
 to fry 
 
 Mufcels, to Hew - 
 to ragoo 
 
 Mufhrooms, to fricaffee 
 to ragoo 
 Loaves 
 to pickle 
 Catchup 
 Powder 
 to keep 
 to pickle for ufe 
 in long voyages 384 
 
 Mutton Broth - 20 
 
 to roaft - 46 
 
 Haunch of, to drefs 
 like Venifon ib. 
 Steaks, to broil 65 
 halhed - 91 
 
 to ragoo - 105 
 
 Harrico pf 134 
 
 Bafque of - ib. 
 
 Shoulder furprifed 133 
 Kebobbed - ib. 
 
 a-ia-haut-gout 136 
 roafted, with oyfters ib„ 
 Shoulder of en 
 
 Epigram 136 
 
 Rumps a-la-braife 137 
 Chops in Difguife ib. 
 Shoulder of, called 
 Hen and Chickens ib. 
 Pie - 180 
 
 Saddle of, to carve 365 
 Leg of, to carve 367 
 Breall of, to collar 274 
 Hams - 288 
 
 N 
 
 Naflurtiums, to pickle 265 
 3 L Neat’s 
 
 Page 
 
 43 
 
 311 
 
 1 15 
 
 i 3 
 
 idg 
 
 111 
 
 290 
 
 2 54 
 
 282 
 
 3 8 7 
 
 304 
 
 39 
 
 77 
 
 89 
 
 107 
 
 101 
 
 iot 
 
 156 
 
 265 
 
 ib. 
 
 266 
 296 
 
Neat’s Tongue ftewed 
 
 Page 
 
 81 
 
 to fricaflee 
 
 <J 5 
 
 to cure 
 
 O 
 
 Oatmeal Pudding 
 
 289 
 
 168 
 
 Olive Pie 
 
 182 
 
 Onions, to pickle 
 
 262 
 
 Orange Pudding 
 
 *73 
 
 , Tarts 
 
 203 
 
 Cuftard 
 
 210 
 
 Cakes 
 
 217 
 
 Cream - 
 
 223 
 
 Jelly 
 
 230 
 
 to preferve 
 
 241 
 
 Peel, candied 
 
 250 
 
 Chips 
 
 251 
 
 Marmalade 
 
 ib. 
 
 Poflet 
 
 298 
 
 Wine 
 
 306 
 
 Brandy 
 
 3 J 5 
 
 Water 
 
 318 
 
 Ornaments in Confedtion- 
 
 ary 
 
 2 53 
 
 Orgeat 
 
 302 
 
 Ox Palates, to broil 
 
 6 5 
 
 to flew 
 
 81 
 
 to fricaflee 
 
 95 
 
 to ragoo 
 
 10 5 
 
 to pickle 
 
 272 
 
 Ox Tongues, to fry 
 
 72 
 
 Feet or Cow-Heel, to 
 
 fry 
 
 ib. 
 
 Oxford Saufages, to make 
 
 292 
 
 John 
 
 1 38 
 
 Oyfters, to fry 
 
 V 
 
 to flew 
 
 8 9 
 
 Scollopped 
 
 ib. 
 
 to fricaflee 
 
 IOC 
 
 to ragoo 
 
 107 
 
 Sauce 
 
 116 
 
 Loaves 
 
 j 5 6 
 
 to pickle 
 
 27: 
 
 Soup 
 
 p 
 
 »9 
 
 Panada, to make, 
 
 2 99 
 
 Pancakes 
 
 *95 
 
 Cream 
 
 ib. 
 
 Hice 
 
 196 
 
 Pink coloured 
 
 ib. 
 
 Clara 
 
 ib. 
 
 3 
 
 Parfley, to crifp 
 
 Page 
 
 118 
 
 to pickle 
 
 268 
 
 Parfnips, to boil 
 
 i6t 
 
 Partridge Soup 
 
 18 
 
 Partridges, to boil 
 
 33 
 
 to roaft 
 
 54 
 
 to flew 
 
 84 
 
 a-la-braze 
 
 15 1 
 
 to trufs 
 
 344 
 
 to carve 
 
 360 
 
 Pafle, Puff 
 
 179 
 
 Short Cruft 
 
 180 
 
 a good one for large 
 Pies - - 
 
 ib. 
 
 a Handing Cruft for 
 great Pies 
 
 ib. 
 
 for Tarts 
 
 ib. 
 
 for Cuftards 
 
 ib. 
 
 Rafpberry 
 
 253 
 
 Currant 
 
 ib. 
 
 Goofeberry 
 
 ib. 
 
 Patties 
 
 188 
 
 Peaches, to prderve 
 
 238 
 
 Dried 
 
 248 
 
 to pickle 
 
 268 
 
 Peafe and Lettuce, to flew 
 
 86 
 
 Francois 
 
 111 
 
 Green, to keep till 
 Chriftmas 
 
 2 93 
 
 Soup, White 
 
 11 
 
 Green 
 
 12 
 
 Penny royal Water 
 
 316 
 
 Peppermint Water 
 
 ib. 
 
 Perch, to boil 
 
 40 
 
 Petit Patties 
 
 203 
 
 Pheafants, to boil 
 
 33 
 
 to roaft 
 
 .54 
 
 to (lew 
 
 8 4 
 
 a-la-brafce 
 
 152 
 
 to trufs 
 
 344 
 
 to carve 
 
 36° 
 
 Piccalillo, or Indian pickle 
 
 266 
 
 Pickling, Mangoes 
 
 257 
 
 Gerkins 
 
 258 
 
 Cucumbers 
 
 ' 2 59 
 
 Ditto in Slices 
 
 ib. 
 
 Walnuts 
 
 260 
 
 Red Cabbage 
 
 262 
 
 Onions 
 
 ib. 
 
 Samphire 
 
 263 
 
 Pickling 
 
INDEX 
 
 Pa ? e 
 
 Pickling Kidney Beans 263 
 
 Barberries ib. 
 
 Beet Roots 264 
 
 Radiih Pods ib, 
 
 Cauliflower ib. 
 
 Artichoke bottoms ib. 
 Nafturtiums 265 
 
 Mufhrooms ib. 
 
 Catchup ib. 
 Powder 266 
 to keep 
 
 in Lqng voyages 384 
 Walnut Catchup 266 
 Afparagus 267 
 
 Parfley - 268 
 
 Elder Buds ib. 
 
 Peaches - ib. 
 
 Codlins - 269 
 
 Golden Pippins ib. 
 Grapes - ib. 
 
 Red Currants 270 
 
 Caveach - 271 
 
 Smelts - ib. 
 
 Oyfters - ib. 
 
 Artificial Ancho¬ 
 vies - 272 
 
 Ox Palates ib. 
 
 Pies, made of Butcher's Meat t 
 
 180— Beef Steak Pies ib — 
 Mutton Pie, ib.—Veal Pie, 
 
 181— A rich Veal Pie, ib.— 
 Lamb or Veal Pies in high 
 Tafte, ib.—VenifonPafty, 182 
 Olive Pie, ib.—Calf's Head 
 Pie, ib.—Calf’s Feet Pie, 183 
 
 Sweetbread Pie, ib.-Che- 
 
 fhire Pork Pie, 184—Devon- 
 (hire Squab Pie, ib. 
 
 Pies, made of Poultry , &c.— 
 
 A plain Goofe Pie, ib.- 
 
 Giblet Pie, 185—Duck Pie, 
 ib.—Pigeon Pie, ib.—Chick¬ 
 en Pie, ib. — Partridge Pie, 
 186—Hare Pie, ib.—Rabbit 
 Pie, 187—Fine Patties, 188. 
 
 Pies made of Fruit , &c. - 
 
 Apple Pie, 188—Apple Tart, 
 189—Cherry Pie, ib.-—Mince 
 Pies, ib.—Orange or Lemon 
 Tafrr, 190—Tart-de.Moi, 191 
 Artichoke Pie, ib.~Vermi- 
 sejii Pie, ib. 
 
 
 Page 
 
 Pies made of F'ijh, - 
 
 —Eel 
 
 Pie, 192—Turbot Pie, i 
 
 b.— 
 
 Soal Pie, ib.—Flounder 
 
 Pie, 
 
 193—Carp Pie, ib.—Tench 
 
 Pie, ib.—Trout Pie, 194- 
 
 Salmon Pie, ib.—Herring Pie, 
 
 ib.—Lobiler Pie, ib. • 
 
 
 Pig, to roalt 
 
 48 
 
 to bake 
 
 59 
 
 Barbacued 
 
 1 39 
 
 an pere duillet 
 
 140 
 
 Matelote 
 
 ib. 
 
 to collar 
 
 276 
 
 to carve 
 
 364 
 
 Pigs Pettitoes, to drefs 
 
 2 9 
 
 Feet and ears to ragoo 104 
 
 to foufe 
 
 201 
 
 Pigeons, to boil 
 
 3 Z 
 
 to roaft 
 
 53 
 
 to broil 
 
 66 
 
 to (lew 
 
 84 
 
 to fricaflee 
 
 97 
 
 Compote 
 
 148 
 
 tranfmogrified 
 
 ib. 
 
 French Pupton of 
 
 ib. 
 
 a-la-braze 
 
 149 
 
 au poife 
 
 ib. 
 
 a-la-daub 
 
 ib. 
 
 Surtout 
 
 150 
 
 a-la-Souflel 
 
 ib. 
 
 in a Hole 
 
 1 5 1 
 
 Jugged 
 
 ib. 
 
 Pie 
 
 185 
 
 to pot 
 
 283 
 
 to trufs 
 
 343 
 
 to carve 
 
 360 
 
 Breeding and ma¬ 
 
 
 nagement of 
 
 39 4 
 
 Pike, to boil 
 
 38 
 
 to bake with force¬ 
 
 
 meat 
 
 6 3 
 
 to flew 
 
 87 
 
 to pot 
 
 283 
 
 Pillow of Veal 
 
 124 
 
 Pine Apple, to preferve 
 
 2 39 
 
 Pink-coloured Pancakes 
 
 196 
 
 Piftachio Cream 
 
 226 
 
 Plumb Porridge, to keep 
 
 22 
 
 Pudding 
 
 168 
 
 Cakes 
 
 212 
 
 Little ditto 
 
 216 
 
 Pompadour Cream 
 
 226 
 
 3La 
 
 Poppy 
 
INDEX. 
 
 V Page] 
 
 Poppy Water 
 
 3*7 
 
 Pontiff Sauce 
 
 u8 
 
 Porcupine of a Breaft of 
 
 Veal 
 
 122 
 
 Pork, to roaft 
 
 49 
 
 Chops, to broil 
 
 65 
 
 to pickle 
 
 290 
 
 fparerib of, to carve 
 
 37 ° 
 
 Portable Soup 
 
 ^3 
 
 Portugal Cakes 
 
 214 
 
 Poffets - - 
 
 2 97 
 
 Potatoes, to fry 
 
 74 
 
 to bojl 
 
 rbi 
 
 pudding 
 
 171 
 
 Remarks on the 
 
 culture of 
 
 426 
 
 to preferve 
 
 427 
 
 Potting Venifon 
 
 278 
 
 Hares 
 
 2 79 
 
 Veal 
 
 ib. 
 
 Marble Veal 
 
 ib. 
 
 Tongues 
 
 ib. 
 
 Geefe and Fowls 
 
 O 
 
 CO 
 
 Beef 
 
 ib. 
 
 Pigeons 
 
 281 
 
 Woodcocks 
 
 ib. 
 
 Moor Game 
 
 282 
 
 Small Birds 
 
 ib. 
 
 Eels 
 
 ib. 
 
 Lampreys 
 
 283 
 
 Smelts 
 
 ib. 
 
 Pike 
 
 ib. 
 
 Salmon 
 
 ib. 
 
 Lobfters 
 
 284 
 
 Shrimps 
 
 285 
 
 Herrings 
 
 ib. 
 
 Chars 
 
 ib. 
 
 Poultry, the Breeding, Rear 
 
 - 
 
 ing, and Management of 
 
 388 
 
 Pound Cake 
 
 212 
 
 Prawns, to Hew - 
 
 88 
 
 Preferving Apricots 
 
 2 37 
 
 Peaches 
 
 238 
 
 Quinces 
 
 ib. 
 
 Barberries 
 
 ib. 
 
 Pine Apples 
 
 239 
 
 Grapes 
 
 240 
 
 Cherries 
 
 ib. 
 
 Green Codlins 
 
 ib. 
 
 Golden Pippins 
 
 ib. 
 
 Green Gage 
 
 Plumbs 
 
 241 
 
 Page 
 
 Preferving Oranges 
 
 241 
 
 Rafpberries 
 
 244 
 
 Strawberries 
 
 ib. 
 
 Currants in 
 
 
 Bunches 
 
 243 
 
 Goofe berries 
 
 244 
 
 Ditto in Imita- 
 
 
 tion of Hops 
 
 ib. 
 
 Damfons . 
 
 245 
 
 Walnuts 
 
 246 
 
 Cucumbers 
 
 247 
 
 Dripping for ufe 
 
 
 indong voyages 
 
 383 
 
 Prune Pudding 
 
 168 
 
 Pruflian Cakes 
 
 215 
 
 Puddings Boiled , 162-Bread 
 
 Pudding, ib.-Batter Pud¬ 
 
 ding, 163—Cuftard Pudding, 
 164—Quaking Pudding, ib. 
 Sago Pudding, ib.—Marrow 
 Pudding, ib.——Bifcuit Pud¬ 
 ding, 165.--Almond Pud¬ 
 
 ding, ib.—Tanfe.y Pudding, 
 ib. — Herb Pudding, 166— 
 Spinach Pudding, ib.—Cream 
 Pudding-, ib.—Hunting Pud¬ 
 ding, 167-Steak Pudding, 
 
 ib.'—CaU’s Feet Pudding, ib. 
 Prune Pudding, 168—Plumb 
 Pudding, ib—Hafn Pudding, 
 ib.—Oatmeal Pudding, ib.— 
 
 Suet Pudding, 169-Veal 
 
 Suet Pudding, ib.—Cabbage 
 
 Pudding, ib. —-A Spoonful 
 
 Pudding, ib.——White Pud¬ 
 dings in Skins, ib. — Apple 
 Pudding, 170—Apple Dump¬ 
 lins, ib.—-Suet Dumplins, ib. 
 
 Rafpberry Dumplins, ib.-- 
 
 Yeaft Dumplins, 171—Nor¬ 
 folk Dumplins, ib. -— ■ Hard 
 Dumplins, ib. — Potatoe Pud¬ 
 ding, ib. — Black Puddings, 
 172. 
 
 Puddings Baked, 172 -i^Vermi- 
 celii Pudding, ib.-Sweet¬ 
 
 meat Pudding, ib. — Orange 
 Pudding, 173—Lemon Pud¬ 
 ding, ib.—Almond Pudding, 
 
 174—Rice Pudding, ib.- 
 
 Millet Pudding, 175——Oat 
 Pudding, ib,——Tranfparent 
 Puddings 
 
I N D 
 
 E X. 
 
 Page 
 
 Padding, ib.—French Barley 
 Pudding, ib. — Potatoe Pud¬ 
 ding, ib.—Lady Sunderland’s 
 Pudding, 176—Citron Pud¬ 
 ding, ib.—Chefnut Pudding, 
 ib.—Quince Pudding, 177— 
 Cowflip Pudding,ib.-Cheefe- 
 curd Pudding, ib.-Apple 
 
 Pudding, ib.-Bread and 
 
 Butter Pudding, 178-A 
 
 Grateful Pudding, 178 
 
 Carrot Pudding, ib-Yoik- 
 
 fhire Pudding, ib- 
 Puffs, Sugar - 204 
 
 Lemon ib. 
 
 Almond - 205 
 
 Chocolate - ib. 
 Curd - ib. 
 
 Wafers - ib. 
 
 Pullets a la Sainte Mene- 
 hout - 145 
 
 Quaking Pudding - 164 
 
 Queen’s Cakes - 215 
 
 Quince Wine - 3°8 
 
 Quinces, to preferve 238 
 
 Marmalade 251 
 
 R 
 
 Rabbits, to boil - 32 
 
 to roaft - 54 
 
 to fricaffee, White 98 
 Brown ib. 
 
 Florendine 154 
 
 Surprifed - 155 
 
 in Cafferole ib. 
 
 Pie - 187 
 
 Breeding and ma¬ 
 nagement of 397 
 
 Radifh Pods, to pickle 264 
 
 Ragooing Butcher’s Meat —102 
 
 Breaft of Veal, ib.—Neck of 
 Veal, 103—Sweetbreads, ib. 
 Gaif’sFeet, 104—Pigs Feet 
 and Ears, ib. — Fore-Quarter 
 of Houfs-Lamb, ib. —Beef, ib. 
 Ox Palates, 105—Mutton, ib. 
 Ragoos of Poultry, Vegetables, 
 £3c .—A Goofe, 106—Livers 
 of Poultry, ib.—Oyfters, 107. 
 Mu feels, ib.—Mufhrooms, 108 
 Artichoke Bottoms, ib.—Af- 
 
 paragus, ib.—Cucumbers, 109 
 —Cauliflowers, ib.—French- 
 Beans, ib.—Endive, ib.—Cab¬ 
 bage Force-meagre, no—As¬ 
 paragus forced in French 
 Rolls, 111—Peafe, Francoife, 
 
 ib. 
 
 
 Ratlin Wine 
 
 303 
 
 Rafpberry Dumplins 
 
 *70 
 
 Fritters 
 
 200 
 
 Tart 
 
 202 
 
 Cream 
 
 227 
 
 Jam 
 
 228 
 
 Pafte 
 
 253 
 
 Wine 
 
 305 
 
 Brandy 
 
 3*4 
 
 Rafpberries, to preferve 
 
 242 
 
 Ratafia Cakes 
 
 216 
 
 Cream 
 
 227 
 
 Rheubarb Tarts 
 
 203 
 
 Ribband Jelly 
 
 232 
 
 Rice Soup 
 
 14 
 
 Pudding 
 
 *74 
 
 Pancakes 
 
 196 
 
 Fritters 
 
 198 
 
 Cheefecakes 
 
 207 
 
 Cuftards 
 
 209 
 
 Cakes - f 
 
 21 3 
 
 Milk 
 
 300 
 
 Roafting Butcher’s Meat, 44— 
 Beef, 45—Mutton and Lamb, 
 46—Haunch of Mutton dref- 
 fed like Venifon, ib.—Fore- 
 Quarter of Houfe Lamb, 47— 
 Tongues or Udders, ib.-Veal, 
 ib.—Pork, 48, Sucking Pigs, 
 ib.—Calf’s Head, 50—Ham^ 
 or Gammon of Bacon, ib. 
 
 Roafting Poultry , 51 —Turkies, 
 ib.—Chickens, 52 — Green 
 Geefe, ib.—A Stubble Goofe^ 
 ib. — Ducks, 53 — Pigeons, 
 ib.—Larks, ib.—Rabbits, 54^ 
 Pheafants and Partridges, ib. 
 Woodcocks or Snipes, 55—- 
 Ruffs and Rees, ib.—Hares, 
 56—Venifon, ib. 
 
 Roafting Fi/h, 57—Cod’s Head, 
 ib.—Lobfter, ib. 
 
 Rofe Wine - 310 
 
 Water » 316 
 
 Rcfes, 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Rofes, Sugar of, in various 
 Figures 
 
 Page 
 
 223 
 
 Sack PofTet - 297 
 
 Saddle of Mutton, to carve 365 
 
 Saffron Cakes - 214 
 
 Sago - _ - 301 
 
 Pudding - 164 
 
 Salmon, to boil - 35 
 
 to bake - 61 
 
 to broil - 66 
 
 Pie - 194 
 
 to collar - 277 
 
 to pdt - 283 
 
 to carve 366 
 
 Samphire, to pickle 263 
 
 Savory Jelly ' - 233 
 
 Sauce for any kind of roaft 
 Meat - - 115 
 
 Sauce for moft Kinds of 
 Fifh - - 116 
 
 Sauce for Wild Ducks, 
 
 Teal, &c. - 118 
 
 Saufages, to fry - 73 
 
 to make 292 
 
 Oxford - ib. 
 
 Bologna - 293 
 
 Scotch Barley Broth 14 
 
 Coliops - 127 
 
 SeedCake - 211 
 
 Shalot Sauce - 117 
 
 Sheep’s Rumps and Kidneys 136 
 Shrewfbury Cakes 214 
 
 Shrimps, to tlew - 88 
 
 fauce - xi6 
 
 to pot - 285 
 
 Sicilian Sauce - 218 
 
 Skait, to fricaffee - 100 
 
 Skirrets, to fricaffee 102 
 
 Smelts, to fry - 76 
 
 to pickle - 271 
 
 to pot - 283 
 
 Snipes, to broil - 33 
 
 to roaft - 55 
 
 to furtout - 153 
 
 with Burikin leaves ib. 
 to trufs - 344 
 
 Snow Balls - 220 
 
 aDilhof 254 
 
 Soals, to boil - 31 
 
 Page 
 
 Soals to fry - 76 
 
 to (lew - 88 
 
 to fricaffee - 99 
 
 Pie - - 192 
 
 Solomon’s Temple in Flum¬ 
 mery - - 236 
 
 Soups and Broths, 5—Vermicelli 
 Soup, 6—Soups a-la-Reine, 7. 
 Soup Creffy, 8—Tranfparent 
 Soup, ib.—Almond Soup, 9— 
 SoupSante,or Gravy Soup, ib. 
 Soup and Bouille, 10—Ox 
 Cheek Soup, ib. — Macaroni 
 Soup, 11—Calf's Head Soup* 
 ib.—Peas Soup, ib.—White 
 ditto, 12—Green ditto, ib.-^- 
 Onion Soup, 13—Milk Soup, 
 ib.—Rice Soup, 14—Scotch 
 Barley Broth, ib.—Soup Lor¬ 
 raine, 15—Soup Maigre, ib;— 
 Giblet Soup, 16-Hodge Podge 
 Soup, ib.—Cow Heel Soup, 
 17—White Soup, ib.—Gravy 
 Soup, 18— Hare Soup, ib.—- 
 Partridge Soup, ib.—Cray- 
 Fifh Soup, ib.—Eel Soup, ib. 
 
 Oyfler Soup, ib.-Mutton 
 
 Broth, 20—Beef Broth, ib.— 
 Beef Drink, ib.—Strong Beef 
 
 Broth, to keep, 21--Veal 
 
 Broth, ib.—Chicken Broth, 
 ib. Spring Broth, ib.—Plumb 
 Porridge to keep, 22—Mock 
 Turtle Soup, ib. — Portable 
 Soup, 23 
 
 Spanilh Cream - 225 
 
 Spinach, to boil - 160 
 
 Pudding - 166 
 
 Tarts - 203 
 
 Spoonful Pudding - 166 
 
 Sponge Bifctiits - 2:8 
 
 Spring Broth - 2t 
 
 Stag’s Heart Water 319 
 
 Steak Pudding - 167 
 
 Steeple Cream - 225 
 
 Stewing Butcher's Meat , 78— 
 
 Fillet of Veal, ib.—Breaft of 
 Veal, ib.-Knuckle of Veal, ib. 
 Neck of Veal, 79-CalPsHead, 
 ib.—Calf’s Liver, 80—Rump 
 
 of 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Fage 
 
 of Beef, 80—Beef Steaks, ib. 
 Beef Gobbets, ib.—* Neat’s 
 Tongue, 81—Qx Palates, ib. 
 'Stewing Poultry, &c. 82—Tur- 
 kies, ib.—Fowls, ib—Chick* 
 ens, 83—Goofe Giblets, ib.— 
 Ducks, ib.—Ducks with Green 
 Peas,84—Pigeons, ib.—Phea- 
 fants, ib. — Partridges, 85— 
 Cucumbers, ib. — Peafe and 
 Lettuce, 86 
 
 Stewing Fifo, 86-Carp and 
 
 Tench, ib.-Barbel, 87—'Trout, 
 ib.—Pike, ib. — Cod, ib. — 
 Soals,Plaife and Flounders, 88 
 
 Lampreys and Eels, ib.- 
 
 Prawns, Shrimps, or CrayFilh, 
 ib. — Oyfters, 89 — Oyfters 
 Scolloped,ib.—Mufcles, ib. 
 Strawberry Fritters - 199 
 
 Jam - 228 
 
 Strawberries, to preferve 242 
 Sturgeon, to boil - 41 
 
 Suet Pudding - 169 
 
 Dumplins . - 170 
 
 Sugar Puffs - 205 
 
 Sugars, Method of Prepar¬ 
 ing - - 220 
 
 Sugars, Devices in 223 
 
 Suppers of four Articles 381 
 five ditto 382 
 
 Surfeit Water - 317 
 
 Sweetbreads, to fry - 72 
 
 to fricaffee 96 
 to ragoo 103 
 a-la-dauphine 125 
 en Gordiniere 126 
 a-la-daub 127 
 Pie - 183 
 
 Sweetmeat Pudding 172 
 
 Syllabub, Whipt - 233 
 
 Solid . 234 
 
 Lemon - ib. 
 
 Eveilafting ibi 
 
 T 
 
 Tanfey Pudding - 165 
 
 Fritters - 198 
 
 TartdeMoi - 191 
 
 Rafpberry - 202 
 
 Dried Almoad ih ; 
 
 Page 
 ■ 202 
 ib. 
 203 
 
 ib, 
 
 ib. 
 
 204 
 
 226 
 
 7 5 
 *93 
 100 
 
 27 
 
 Tart, Green ditto 
 Angelica 
 Rheubarb 
 Spinach 
 Orange 
 Chocolate 
 Tea Cream 
 Tench, to fry 
 Pie 
 
 Thornback, to fricaffee 
 Tongue, to drefs 
 
 and Udder forced 134 
 ' to pot - 279 
 
 Tranfparent Soup - 8 
 
 Pudding 175 
 
 Marmalade 2,52 
 
 Treacle Water - 319 
 
 Tripe, to fry - 73 
 
 to fricaffee - 97 
 
 a-la-Kilkenny 134 
 
 foufed - 291 
 
 Trout, to boil - 38 
 
 to broil - 68 
 
 to flew - 87 
 
 Pie - 194 
 
 Trailing Turkies - 340 
 
 Fowls - 341 
 
 Chickens - ;<? 342 
 
 Geefe - 343 
 
 Pigeons * ib. 
 
 Wild Fowl - ib. 
 Pheafants - 344 
 
 Partridges - ib. 
 
 Woodcocks ib. 
 
 Snipes - ib. 
 
 Larks - 345 
 
 Turbot, to boil, 34—to bake, 62 
 to fry, 74-—Pie, 192 
 Turkey, to boil, 30-10 roaft, 51- 
 to flew, 82—to halh, 92—a-ia- 
 daub, 141—in a Hurry, 142 
 foufed, 291—to trufs, 340 
 Turkies, breeding and ma¬ 
 nagement of 394 
 Turnip Wine - 309 
 
 Turtle, to drefs - 41 
 
 Weft India Method 43 
 
 V 
 
 Veal broth, 21—to road, 47 
 
 Fillet of, to ftew 78 ’ 
 
 V» cl 
 
 * Ui - 
 
INDEX 
 
 Page 
 
 ; 8 
 
 ib. 
 
 7 1 
 
 79 
 
 9 1 
 
 102 
 
 103 
 
 121 
 
 123 
 
 124 
 
 125 
 
 126 
 169 
 
 l8l 
 
 274 
 
 2 79 
 
 ib. 
 
 288 
 
 3 6 9 
 
 ib. 
 
 Veal, Breaft of ditto 
 
 Knuckle of, to flew 
 Cutlets, to fry 
 Neck of, ditto 
 Minced 
 fo ragoo 
 
 , Neck of, ditto 
 Olives 
 
 a-la-Bourgeoife 
 Loin of, en Epigram 
 Shoulder of, a-Ia-Pied- 
 montoife 
 Sawory Difh of 
 Suet Pudding 
 Pie 
 
 to collar 
 to pot 
 to marble 
 Hams 
 
 to carve a breaft of 
 a Fillet 
 
 Vegetables and Roots, 157—To 
 drefs Afparagus, 158— Arti¬ 
 chokes, ib.—Brocoli, ib.—Cau¬ 
 liflowers, 159—Green Peas,ib. 
 Windfor Beans, 160—Kidney 
 
 Beans, ib.—Spinach, ib- 
 
 Calgfoages, ib.—Turnips, 161 
 Carrots, ib.—Parfnips, ib.— 
 Potatoes fcolloped, 162 
 Vegetables, to keep 
 Venifon, Haunch of, to 
 roaft 
 
 Venifon, to fry 
 to hafli 
 Pafly 
 to collar 
 to pot 
 to carve 
 
 Vermicelli Soup 
 
 Pudding 
 Pie 
 
 Umbels of Deer, to drefs 
 
 2 93 
 
 5 6 
 
 70 
 
 94 
 
 182 
 
 2 73 
 
 278 
 
 3 6 3 
 
 6 
 
 172 
 
 1 9 1 
 
 *35 
 
 W 
 
 Wafers, to make - 205 
 
 Walnuts, to.preferve 246 
 
 to pickle 260 
 
 Walnuts to keep 
 
 Page 
 
 295 
 
 Walnut Catchup 
 
 266 
 
 Water Gruel 
 
 3 00 
 
 Whigs 
 
 21& 
 
 Whipt Cream 
 
 2 25 
 
 Syllabub 
 
 233 
 
 White Pot 
 
 298 
 
 Rice ditto 
 
 299 
 
 White Caudle, 220—Brown 
 
 ditto 
 
 300 
 
 White Wine Whey 
 
 ib. 
 
 White Puddings in fkins 
 
 if> 9 
 
 Whitings to broil 
 
 6 9 
 
 Wild Ducks, tohafh 
 
 93 
 
 Fowl, to trufs 
 
 343 
 
 Windfor Beans, to boil 
 
 160 
 
 Wine Poflet 
 
 298 
 
 to mull 
 
 301 
 
 Wines, made 
 
 3°2 
 
 Raifln 
 
 303 
 
 Currant 
 
 - ib„ 
 
 Goofe berry 
 
 ib. 
 
 Pearl Goofe be fry 
 
 3°4 
 
 Mulberry 
 
 ib. 
 
 Cowflip 
 
 3 05 
 
 Rafpberry 
 
 ib. 
 
 Damfon 
 
 ib. 
 
 Rofe 
 
 310 
 
 Orange 
 
 306 
 
 Lemon 
 
 ib. 
 
 Grape 
 
 307 
 
 Cherry 
 
 ib. 
 
 Elder 
 
 ib. 
 
 Apricot 
 
 301 
 
 Clary 
 
 ib. 
 
 Quince 
 
 ib. 
 
 Blackberry 
 
 309 
 
 Turnip 
 
 ib. 
 
 Birch 
 
 ib. 
 
 Ginger 
 
 3 11 
 
 Balm 
 
 ib. 
 
 Mead 
 
 ib. 
 
 Woodcocks, to boil 33—to roaft 
 
 55—to furtout 153—to 
 
 hath 
 
 93—to pot 281—to trufs 344 
 
 Y 
 
 iYorkfhire Pudding 17S 
 
 F I N I S. 
 
SUBSCRIBERS 
 
 T 0 
 
 HENDERSON’S COOKERY. 
 
 JONAS ASPLIN, Gent. Ave- 
 ley, Eflex. 
 
 Mr. Ed. Allen, Briftol. 
 
 Mrs. Andrews, Earl-ftreet, Black- 
 friars. 
 
 •- Adkins, Maiden-lane. 
 
 -Henrietta Ann Abell, Red 
 
 Lion-ftreet, ClerkenwelL 
 
 -Line Antony, Cornwall. 
 
 -Albiflon, Manchefter. 
 
 Mifs Elizabeth Alexander, 
 Bromley, Kent. 
 
 Mifs Sarah Ayfcough, Fore-ftr. 
 Mifs Mary Ayfcough, Fore-ftr. 
 B 
 
 Mr. J. Barnes, Leicefter-fquare. 
 
 — Wm. Bifhop, Inner Temple. 
 
 — Edw. Bird, Twickenham. 
 
 — Theo. Barnes, Rotherhithe. 
 
 — George Burton. 
 
 Mrs. Burnell, Eaft-ftr. Walworth. 
 
 -Beecham, Deptford. 
 
 -Eliz. Bradbury Bratany, 
 
 BelviJere Buildings, St. 
 George’s Fields. 
 
 -Beets, Old-ftreet Road 
 
 -Henrietta Bifhop, Old-ftr. 
 
 -Bailey, Level Hill. 
 
 E. Baker, Leadenhall-ftr, 
 
 -Cecilia Bull, Oxford-ftreet. 
 
 -Bennet, Southampton- 
 
 Buildings. 
 
 -Bell, Craven-Buildings. 
 
 -Brown, Bedford-ftreet. 
 
 -Barnes, Minories. 
 
 -Yeoman Batcomb, Frome. 
 
 —-— Bates, Sugar-Loaf-court 
 
 -Batger, New-Road, St. 
 
 George’s Fields. 
 
 -Beale, Sapcote, Leicefterlh. 
 
 -Beaumont, Lewifham,Kent 
 
 —— Blake, Weftover, Iile of 
 
 Wight 
 
 4 
 
 Mrs. Boyle, Stephen-ftreet 
 
 --Buckinger, Dartford, Kent 
 
 Mifs Eliz. Braithwaite, Blue- 
 Anchor-alley, Bunhill-row. 
 
 C 
 
 The Rev. Mr. Creighton, Hox* 
 ton-Fields. 
 
 Mr. Clerke. 
 
 — Connel, Brompton. 
 
 Mrs. Coare, Cow-crofs, 
 
 ——- Mary Carrington, Brad- 
 field, Eflex. 
 
 -Cbarlefworth, near Wake¬ 
 field. 
 
 -Capes, Limehoufe. 
 
 —-— Eliz. Crouch, Little So- 
 
 merfet-ftr. Goodman’s Fields. 
 
 -Coote, Ipfwich. 
 
 Cobbold, Ipfwich. 
 
 — Creed, Kenfington-fquare. 
 
 — Catlin, Lincoln’s Inn Fields 
 Cox, St. Martin’s-lane. 
 
 --Margaret Campbell, Mor- 
 
 timer-ftreet 
 
 -Collins, Redman’s-Row, 
 
 Mile-End. 
 
 -Cook, Oxford-ftreet, 
 
 -Cope, King-ftreet, Bloomf- 
 
 bury 
 
 Mifs Amy Cavell, Tuddenham 
 
 -Chitty, Brompton Grove. 
 
 Clarke, Sharnford, Leicef- 
 
 terfhire. 
 
 D 
 
 Captain Dale. 
 
 Mr. Wm. Day, Portland-place,- 
 
 — I. Davis, Brabant-court, 
 Philpot-lane. 
 
 — Dawfon, Wakefield. 
 
 Mrs. Dally, Kenfington. 
 
 -Dewinter, Jury-ftreet. 
 
 —— E. Duowfon, Horfet, Eflex 
 
 -E. Dangerfield, Chancery- 
 
 . lane, 
 
SUBSCRIBERS, 
 
 Mrs. Jane Dawfon. 
 
 -— Frances Dodd, Arlington-flr. 
 i— Dearn, Clare Market. 
 
 ■— Day, Monmouth-ftreet. 
 
 — De Bruyn, North Audley- 
 ftreet, Grofvenor-fquare. 
 
 — Arab. Dackombe, Manfion- 
 Houfe-row, Kennington-lane, 
 Lambeth. 
 
 •— Day, Frome. 
 
 — Day, London. 
 
 — Martha Deane, Froome. 
 
 — Doolan, Kennington-green 
 v— Dillingham, Park-flreet. 
 Mifs Dod, Carlton, near Nor¬ 
 wich. 
 
 — Mary Drew. 
 
 E 
 
 Mr. Erickfon, Piccadilly, 
 
 Mrs. Mary Elder. 
 
 — Elder, Strand. 
 
 — Egan, Martlet-crt, Bow-fir. 
 
 — Eftoo, Tafh-flr. Gray’s-Inn- 
 lane. 
 
 «— Edwards, Grofvenor-flreet. 
 
 —- Mary Evans. 
 
 — Everton, Comb-Field, 
 
 Mifs Evans, Chelfea. 
 
 F 
 
 Mr. Fremont, Sherrard-flreet, 
 Golden-fquare. 
 
 — Freeman, Warwick - flreet, 
 Charing-crofs. 
 
 Mrs. A Frederickfon, Edmonton 
 •— Fifher, fenior, Blandford, 
 Dorfer. 
 
 Mifs Fermer, Shadwell. 
 
 — Fry, Long Acre. 
 
 -— Fumor, Newgate-flreet. 
 
 -— Finders, Red- Lion-fquare. 
 
 — Ford, Frome. 
 
 — Mary Furmage, Rathbone- 
 Place. 
 
 — Fydoe, near the Turnpike, 
 Hoxton. 
 
 G 
 
 Mr. Gurney, Covent Garden 
 Market. 
 
 -— Griggs, Poplar. 
 
 Mrs, Griggs, ditto, 
 
 Mrs. Gant, Church-row, Hoif- 
 leydown. 
 
 — E. Gough, Wigmore-ftreet, 
 Cavendifh-fquate. 
 
 —- Mary Gordon, Cockfpur- 
 flreet. Charing Crofs. 
 
 — Gray, Gower-flreet, Bed- 
 ford-fquare. 
 
 — Ann Ginger, Tatterhoe, Bed- 
 fordfhire 
 
 — Gotch, Wells-flreet, Oxfurd- 
 flreet 
 
 H 
 
 Mr. John Harknefs, Broad-flr, 
 Ratcliff Crofs. 
 
 — T. Harwood, Strand, 
 
 — T. Piemans, Walling-flreet, 
 
 Mrs. Hopkins. 
 
 — Hammond, Ipfwich. 
 
 — Plargrave. 
 
 —- Hannah Hacking, White- 
 Hart-court, Bifhopfgate-flr. 
 
 — Hall, Pall-Mall. 
 
 — Mary Hanfley, Queen-Ann- 
 flreet, Eafl. 
 
 — Pleath, Egham. 
 
 — Grace Heath, Bafingfloke 
 
 — Hervey, Frome 
 
 — Harriot Hill, Shadwell, 
 High-flreet. 
 
 — Hayles, Rhyde,Ifle of Wight 
 
 — Hodges, Sherborne. 
 
 — Holder, Bennet’s-flreet, 
 
 — Hook, Moor-Place, Lam¬ 
 beth. 
 
 Mifs Holdfwortb, Wakefield. 
 
 — Plaigh, Wakefield. 
 
 — Hatfield, Wakefield. 
 
 — Elizabeth Hoddinott, Non- 
 ney. 
 
 •— Mary Hulbert, Pickwick, 
 Wilts. . 
 
 IJ 
 
 Mrs. Ifaacs, LeadenhalP-flreet. 
 
 — Jerrnyn, Ipfwich. 
 
 — M. Johnfon, Little Bufh-lane. 
 
 — Jones, DukeVcourf, Drury- 
 lane. 
 
 — Jackfon, Portland-flreet. 
 
 — Jennings, Little Queen-flreet, 
 
 Mrs, 
 
SUBSCRIBERS. 
 
 Mrs. Sarah Jones. 
 
 — Diana Jones, Rotherhithe 
 
 — Jordan, Twickenham 
 
 — E. Joyner, Coventry. 
 
 Mifs C. Iris, Plymouth. 
 
 K 
 
 Mr. Killiek, Stone-cutter-court, 
 Black-Friars. 
 
 »—. Knight, Great St. Andrew’s- 
 ftreet. 
 
 -— Keyfer, Savage Gardens. 
 Mrs. Knowles, Deptford. 
 t— Cornelia Kafy, Fleet Gardens. 
 
 — King, Mattifhall. 
 
 Mifs King, Melford-place, Suf¬ 
 folk. 
 
 L 
 
 Mr. Loferlhaw, Honey-lane- 
 Market. 
 
 Mrs. Lucy, Cheapfide. 
 
 ■— S. Lewis, Warwick-ffreet, 
 Golden-fquare. 
 
 — Lavoine. 
 
 — Leatt, Little St. Martin’s 
 lane. 
 
 — Sarah Larkin, Grub-ftreet. 
 
 — Lock, Plymouth. 
 
 — Loveridge, Lyme-Regis 
 
 M 
 
 Mr. R. Manwaring, Featherftcn- 
 ftreet. 
 
 — W. Maltman, Dover-ftreet. 
 
 — Mount ford, Gough-fquare. 
 Mrs. Matthews, Kenfington 
 
 Gravel Pits 
 
 — Mary Murphy. 
 
 ■— Mafon, Charlotte-ftfeet. 
 
 — Moore, Chichefter-rents. 
 
 — Ann Marfhall, Derby. 
 
 — Mears, Great Mary-le-bone- 
 ftteet. 
 
 — Mguaan, Minories. 
 
 i— Mary Morris, Long-lane, 
 Bermondfey. 
 
 — Murray, Harpur-ftreet. 
 
 Mifs E. Martin, Green-ftreet, 
 
 Grofvenor-fquare. 
 
 N 
 
 Mrs. Neal, Grptto, Southwark. 
 
 — Norden, Savage Gardens, 
 
 Mrs. Sarah Neracher, Craven* 
 Buildings, Drury-lane. 
 
 O 
 
 Mrs. Overman, Highgate. 
 
 — Ofett, Portland-place. 
 
 — Omicron, Cheapfide. 
 
 P 
 
 Mr. George Peele. 
 
 — Price, Charles-ftreet, Totten¬ 
 ham Court-road. 
 
 — William Pars, Beaufort- 
 Buildings. 
 
 — Parifot. 
 
 Mrs. Pouncefort, Welbeck-ftreet, 
 Cavendifh-fquare. 
 
 — Jane Palmer, Gower-ftreet, 
 Bedford-fquare. 
 
 — Peoly, Holborn-court. 
 
 CL 
 
 Mrs. Quell, Burr-ftreet. 
 
 R 
 
 Mr. T. Rogers, Orpington. 
 
 — Redwood, New Cavendifh- 
 ftreet, Portland-place 
 
 — Ratcliffe, Seymour-ftreet 
 Mrs. Randall, Paradife-llreet, 
 
 Rotherhithe. 
 
 — Reid, Kir.g-ftr. Seven Dials. 
 
 — Riley, Sudbury, Suffolk. 
 
 — Ridley, Croydon, Surry. 
 
 Mifs Rawes, Sherborne. 
 
 — Reid, Martlet-court, Bow- 
 ftreet. 
 
 S 
 
 Brian Scotney, Efq. Gow r er-(lr» 
 Bedford-fquare. 
 
 Mr. Sparks, Alderfgate-flreet. 
 
 — Strafburger, Hyde - Park- 
 Corner. 
 
 — J. Scott, Tottenham. 
 
 — Slann, Cheapfide. 
 
 — Starr, Oxford-Road. 
 
 — Scot, Brown-ftreet, Grofve¬ 
 nor-fquare. 
 
 Mrs. Starr, Craycott, Somerfet. 
 
 — Jane Sanders, Rotherhithe. 
 
 — S. Sanders, Rotherhithe. 
 
 — A. Sharman, Wandfworth. 
 
 —^ Smith, King-ftrcet, Soho. 
 
 — Jane Stephenfon, 
 
SUBSCRIBERS, 
 
 Mrs. Sirnpfon, Hatton Court, 
 Threadneedle-ftreet. 
 
 Ann Sanders, Bromley, Kent. 
 
 ■— Sarah Scoltock, Tottenham- 
 Court-Road. 
 
 — Sarah Skeat, Paradife-Row, 
 Chelfea 
 
 -— Sladen, Sherborne. 
 
 ~~ Margaret Smith, Merton- 
 Bridge, Surry 
 
 • — Sarah Sporrow, Chdfea. 
 
 — Stable, Pall-Mall. 
 
 — Streek, Piymouth-Dock. 
 
 Mifs Smith, King-ft. Seven Dials. 
 
 — Smeeton, James-ftreet, Co¬ 
 vent-Garden. 
 
 T 
 
 Mr. E. Tyler, Aldgate. 
 
 — J. Tulloh, Turnham Green. 
 
 — Tracey, Furnival’s Inn Court, 
 
 Mrs. Jane Tuff, Kingfton. 
 
 — Jane Theobald. 
 
 —~ Jane Turffrey, York-ftreet. 
 
 — A. Thurfton, Hoxton. 
 
 — Trovy, Baynes- row, Cold- 
 Bath Fields. 
 
 Mils Temple, Northwood-place. 
 
 ! uv 
 
 Major J. E. Urquhart, Efq. 
 
 Mr. B. Uphill, Mount-ftreet, 
 Grofvenor-fquare. 
 
 ;— Vaughan, Chaneery-lane. 
 Mrs. S. Vernon, Mortlake, 
 Surry. 
 
 W 
 
 Mr. Weft, Southwark. 
 
 — John Walker, Portland-place. 
 
 — Hammond Webb, Strand. 
 Mrs. Ann E. Wiltihire, Upper 
 
 Thames-ftreet. 
 
 — Watfon, Threadneedle-ftreet, 
 —■ Watfon, Poplar. 
 
 — M. Williams, Piccadilly. 
 
 — Williams, Kenfington. 
 
 — Wright, Hatton-Garden. 
 
 — Wood, Red Lion-ftreet, Hdl- 
 born. 
 
 — Wadman, Horfington. 
 
 — Sarah Walker, Ratcliff-High¬ 
 way 
 
 — White, Poole. 
 
 Mifs. C. Walker, Upper Shadwell 
 Y 
 
 Mrs. Young, Wine Office-court. 
 
 *** The Publifhers not having been able to procure the Names of one-tenth 
 part of the Subfcribers, they hope that thofe whofe names are omitted will not be 
 offended $ and beg that they may not be blamed if any are found wrong fpelt, as 
 they have taken great Care to have them printed literally as they were delivered by 
 the Bookfellers, Stationers, Newfmen, &c. 
 
 DIRECTIONS to the BINDER. 
 
 No. Page 
 
 I. Frontifpiece to face the Title 
 
 II. Rules for Carving, Plate I. - - 358 
 
 III. A grand Entertainment, Firft Courfe - - 390 
 
 IV. Paries for Carving, Plate II. - - - - 361 
 
 V. Rules for Carving, Plate III. - - - 363 
 
 VT. Rules for Carving, Plate IV. - - - - 365 
 
 VII. Rules for Carving, Piate V. - 366 
 
 VIII. A grand Entertainment, Second Courfe - 390 
 
 IX. Rules for Carving, Plate VI. ... 367 
 
 X. Rules for Carving, Plate VII. - 368 
 
 XI. A Table of Two Courfes for a fmall Company - 390 
 
 XII. A Table,of One Courfe for a Family Entertainment 390 
 
 Printed by W* Siratfcrd, Crovjn-Court } Temple-Bar. 
 
I 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ( 
 
 
 
 
 
 
<2. G>< c ~r 
 
 
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