T O U R THROUG H IRELAND; WHEREIN The Present State of that Kingdom k confidered; and the moft noted Cities, Towns?, Seats, Buildings, Loughs, &c. defcribed. I N T R R S P E R S E D With Observations on the Manners, Customs^ Antiquities, Curiosities, and Naturaj History of that Country. TO WHICH IS PREFIXED, A GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF THE K I N G D O M; WITH The Distances between the Ports, &c. on the Coast of Great - Britain, and thofe on tha^ of Ireland, L O N D O N : Printed for T. LOWNDES, N^;;, in FLEET-STRHrr. M.DCCJ.XXX. nki ■ ' :j U cj O ii. T HJ INT RODUCTION. BEFORE we proceed, ittnay not be altogether unne^ cefTary to give a Iketch of t?he paiTages from England to Ireland ; in order to which, we lhall begin with Chef- ter, the moil frequented rout, which is diHant from Ire- land about 150 miles, and from London near 190. From Chefter there are two pafTages to Dublin, either of which may be taken as fhall beS fuit the conveniency o^ the traveller. The one from Park-gate, a little fea-port for P'ackets and traders, is about twelve miles weft of Cheiler, The othei* pallage is over land f<^r 80 or 90 miles to Holy- head, the moft weltern point of North Wales, in the ifle of Anglefey. — A pafTage is likewife frequently made from Eriftol, by thofe who are not apprehenfiv^e of dan- ger from the fea ; indeed, this is generally taken by the quality and gentry from Ireland who vifit Bath. The diftance from Eriftol to the neareft port in Ireland is about 200 miles. The jliorte'it ipalTage that can be made from Great-Britain to Ireland is from Port Patrick in Galloway county, in Scotland, from vv^hence to Donga- hadee^ in the county of Down, is about feven or eight leagues, or nearly the fame diftance as from Dover to Calais. To give the traveller a clearer idea of the correfpond- ingdiftances between the feveral ports of Great-Britain, on St. George's channel, and thofe of Ireland, the fol- lowing table may be thought ufeful. fto Cape Clear toKinfaie to Cork 49 89 £3 Leagues [_to Dublia A 2 Ftom F rom Lun Jy < INTRODUCTION, to Cape Clear to Kinfale to Cork to Youghall to Waterford to Black Rock to Wexford to Wicklow to Dublin to Cape Clear to Kinfale to Cork to Youghall to Waterford to Black Rock to Wexford to Wicklow to Dublin to Drogheda to Diindalk From Milford Haven Vxom St. David's Head' From Holyhead From Park-Gate ^to Cape Clear « " to Kinfale to Cork to You glial! to Waterford - to Black Rock - to Wexford to Wicklow to Dublin to Cape Clear - to Kinfale to Cork to Youghall to Waterford to Black Rock - to Wexford to Wicklow to Dublin to Drogheda to Dundalk w-to Strangford-bay Tto Dublin ^ to Dundalk - - 69 Leagues 53 53 4-4. 34 27 31 41 53 6s 50 49 40 30 23 33 45 5* 5S 66 51 45 : 3^ .. . ; u 26 16 18 28 40 «5 69 ^5 4» 37 31 '9 20 1 *3 J . ^7 ^ . 24 43 From From Liverpool From T R O D U c"t I O k. V . . ^kifih^to Dublin - 45 Leagues . 4*'^ to Dundalk - 49 ilwh^iio'^to Strangford-bay 42 to Fairhead - 24 to Carrickfergus-bay 1 1 9 as to $trangford-bay „ to Dundalk the Mull of Galloway^ to Drogheda - 27 to Dublin ^ 33. to Wicklow - 4c? _ to Wexford - 57 Jo Ganfore Point The following diflanceV are between co^ft of Irelande rr'Hrj f to Kinfale I to Cork the ports on' tlic From Cape Clear -{ to Youghall j to Waterford ^to Black Rock From From Kinfale to Cork Cork to Youghall - — — — Waterford — Black Rock From Youghall to Waterford » Waterford to Can fore Point ' Canfore Point to Wexford — Wexford to Wicklow * » Wicklow to Dublin — — Dublin to Canfore Point Drogheda Dundalk Strangford-bay Strangford-bay to Carrickfergus-bay — Carrickfergus-bay to Fairhead - Fairhead to Colodagh-head « Colbdagh-head to Lough-Swilly Loiigh-Swiily to Sheep-liaven Sheep-haven to Tory-lfland Toi*y-IAand to the ides of Arran the ilies of Arran to Raghlin; ifle - Ragl>lin illand t0,Donegall-bay - • Donegall-bay tO'Sligqe-b^y 16 Leagues- 20 ^5 38 43 4 9 30 14 JO 4 14 JO 28 9 16 13 37 10 7 6 6 9 S ^ 7 ■ 6 Before Before I p?oceedi to give a fketch, or, I fhould lathcr ieall it, a rough draught of the antiquities in this king- \dom, I 1^1 alL" prop ofe to myielf fitch a method, as may -throw th-e v^hole matter mXQ a diilin^ter light, and at the fame tirii© rei^d^erv ths tafic I have upxdertaken lefs fin%c<5nM^"y t4ie ancient naraes, and primary ^ihhabitar^ts of- the kingdom, a-nd their civil hiitory, in a .^ompendicus manner, from the time of the Milefians, ■ to the ptefent time, with a fuccind account of their •government and manners. The rife and progrefs of • -ehrillianity among theniy with obfervations on their ec- - Hefiailic^ hilicry ; and lafdy, I ir±all endeavour to give the general divifion and ftate of the kingdom as we find them at prefent. The names by which Ireland was chiefly known to the ancients, v/ere Hi-bernia and Scotia. The firft is-varied an the orthography by feveral authors, as lerne, Ju- vernia, Overnia, ierna, and Bernia, by all v/hich names we find it fpoken of in different places ; but they all ap- pear to have been originally derived from the fameTo^ur(:e> which is, according to fome, Hiar, an Iriili word fig^i- fying the well ; to others, the Iberians^ who formerly inhabited here; or, laflly, as- many of tlnsir hiftorians afltrm, Heber, one of the fons of Milefme. The InPa name Erin feem^- to be deduced, from Hiar, notwkhtond- ing thC' fabulous notions they have of its being fo called frdm ^ t urn mi 'Thlt Ireland was called Scotia, before the nor^ of Britain, now To called, and gave its name to that king- dom, is beyond all dlfpute ; for we find it mentioned the name of vScotia, long before that part of Britain was known by other names than Caledonia, Albania, occ. j Plutarch's Ogygia, by him placed to the weftward;of Britain, is thoaght, with fome probability, to have n^eantr Ireland. It is fiHo by Feiliis Avienus. in his book entitled Oras Maritimse, ilyled Infula Sacra (the Holy Ifiand^) nay, he affirms, that Sic Infulam dixere Prifci, the ancients called it fo. Among the old Irifa hifloriana, we find it called the V/oody liland ; in Iriih, Inis na bhfoi- dhbhuidhe ; alft) Inis Alga, the Noble Illand, Banba^, the Happy, and Fodhla, the name of one of her queens, ult was likevvife called Inis fail or IrAisfalia, from the Lia fail er fatal flone, which I fliali mention more at large hereafter. To ciofe this account of names, which is rather tedious to the reader, I fhall only fay, that the pre fen t name Ireland comes from the Irilh Erin, From whence foever the firft inhabitants of Ireland originally came, it is highly probable that they came laft from Britain : the vicinity of the two iflands, the facility of the paifage, and, laiHy, the very great affinity y/e find betvyeen the cuftoms and manners of the old Iriih and their neighbours, the Britons, not to mention the fimilitude of their language, (which any one will per- ceive on comparing the prefent Welfh with the Irifh tongue) are all convincing arguments that both iflands were originally peopled by the fame race. The firfl accounts of all nations, are full of , intricMC uncertainties, fables fo blended with truth, that we hardly know how to feparate them ; but we cannqt with any colour of juilice, accufe the old Irifli hiilorians of de- livering untruths, iince we fmd nothing in them n^ore repugnant to probability, than what we meet with, in the ancient Greek and Roman authors, and I may fay in the antiquities of all nations. I ihall therefore omit giving any account of what the old Iriih chronicles de- liver concerning C^farea or Keafar,, Partholanu^^ the Tuatha de Dana an s,, and other colonies before the, time of the Milef'ans, as tliey are all" ft) clouded with fables. A 4. In Iriii Ix N T R O D U C T I O N. la the fourteenth age before Chrift, their authors agree, that the four fons of Miicfius, king of Spain, ar- rived with a fleet of thirty fhips (each carrying thirty families,) in. this, ifiaud : 'fhat after foine con Aids with the Aborigines^ they fubdued the whole kingdom ; and • that two of them (tlie other two being deceafed) Iherus -or Heber, and Heremon by name, divided it between them, . the north falling to Heber's, the fouth to Here^ mon^s fhare* Thus they reigned jointly with great una- nimity one year, but the lady of Heber, a woman of great pcide, having infilled on being ftyled queen of the three moll fruitful vallies in the ifiand, two of which were already in her poflelfion, and the wife of Heremon being tjefolved to remain mijftrefs of the third, they raifed a difpute between their hufbands, which ended in a bloody tattle fought at Geifiol in LeinJder, and left Kerernon fole monarch. This prince reigned fourteen years, and died at Airgiod Rofs. He was fucceeded by his three fons, from whom defcended above an hundred and twenty princes before chrillianity arrived in Ireland. Of thefe monarchs, there is very little remarkable delivered in hiftory: both in this aera, and after the nation became Chriftian, they were perpetually torn by civil v/ars among the petty princes, who were, or ought to have been, all fabjed to the fupreme king, or monarch of Ireland. We find in their chronicles, very few of thefe kings that did not lofe their crowns and lives in battle. The fum- mary of the hiftory of each is no more than this 3 he began to reign in fuch a year, and \vas flain in fuch a battle by the valiant prince who fucceeded him. In fiiort, this iiland, till within thefe ninety years, has been a con- tinual field of blood, v/hich mu it have greatly prevented its improvement, as we fee what a vaft progrefs it has made in alrnoil every thing for the better, in fo fhort a fpace of time. We find in their ancient hiHories many Itorics of a romantic call, but which, however, are not difagreeable. 1 fhall therefore, in the courfe of my ob- fervations on the particular places in this kingdom, take notice of fome of them. I now return to the fuccefiion of -their kings. From the time of St. Patrick's arrival in* Ireland^ to the coming of the Englifh, v/ere upwards j.yv ^ \. ■ of ^ rN T R O t) u e T I O N. ix of fifty monarchs more. In this ?era is Included thean- vafion and defeat of the Danes, and great part of the church hiftory of Ireland, which we fhall eonfider in its proper place. The Danes firll invaded Ireland in the ninth century: at their firfl coming they were often de- feated; but, being allured by the beauty of the country! far excelling their own barren regions, after feveraj at** tempts, and committing the moft unheard-of Crueltiei/ treachery and facrilege, they ufurped the government of the whole kingdom in theperfon of their leader Turgefius, a man, even according to their own accounts, capable of every kind of guilt. He eredled a caftle for his refidenc© not far from the feat of Maolfeachluin, ©r Malachias, king of Meath, a prince of cohfummate prudence and" valour. Turgefiu^ vvas now pretty well advanced in years, and often condefcended to vifit the king of Meath, whom he neverthelefs treated- with much haughtineA, At an entertainment here hd was capHvated with the beauty of Maclfeachluin's daughter, a lady of unfpotted virtue, as well as the moil accomplifhed princefs of her time and country. The old lover knew how to uie: his power, and demanded her of her father, promifmg to make her his favourite mi (Irefs. Though the kir^g of Meath deteiied the thoughts of delivering his daughtei to be a proflitute to a tyrant, he however would not ab- folutely deny, but begged his majefly to receive her in a private manner, that her reputation might continue, if poffible, unfullied; at the fame time promifmg, if his requell was complied with, that (he lliould be attended by fifteen of the lineil girls his fmall territories could pro-" duce. The tyrant accepted the propofal v/ith pleafure^-^ and the princefs was conveyed to hi^ palace, attended by- Mteea gallant youths habited like virgins. In (h( rt, - ftead of the expedted embraces, they treated Turgefits in a very rough manner, fecured and bound him, at the • fame time giving a ngnal to a large body of forces, who had been drav/n together near the caftk under thecoma mand of the king of Pvleath, who, entering the houfe,. put all the Danes to the fword, and gave a final period to Turgefius's ufurpation, and this ftory ; which, though : iw lias much of^ the romantic air, is very well atte-ft«d*'i As The The Ouftmans or Danes, nreverthelefs, CGntinuedpoT- feffed of feveral fea-port towns till the time of Bryan/ Boroimhe, who gave them a total defeat, though with- the lofs of his own life, at the famous: battl© of Oloit^^ tarf, on the 23d of April 1014. After this tlve Danes^ ©ever recovered their ftrength in Ireland, and even to- this day the natives entertain a violent averfion to theifr* name; though it is thought, v/ith a good deal of reafon*^^ thatfojne of their defeendants are ftiil in being, as the^ inhabitants of the northern part of the county of Dublin^ called Fingall, where many of them fettled, differ in:- language, and many other refpedls from the true Irifh*; ■About the end of the twelfth century, Rodoric king- of; Gonnaught, being poiTefTed of the greateft part of the kingdom, was looked upon as monarch of Ireland, and was the laft that ever bore that title, of the Mileiian race; for in his time the nation put themfeives under the dominion of the Englifh, and have ever fi nee re- mained fubjeds to their king. This fubmiiTion was brought about as follows : Teighernan king of Breifne or Bre- iinia, (the track now called the county of Cavan) had the misfortune to have a lady of the worll difpofition. In fhort, fhe gave a loofe to her paijions, and deferting her lawful lord, cohabited with Diarmuid M*Murrough, king cf Leinfier, a prince who had no great regard to the dilates of virtue and honour. Upon this the B re finian king implored the fuccour of his mailer Rodoric, who, abhorring the crime, declared againfl M'Murrough, and entered his kingdom with all the waifting attendance of war. , The king of Leinfler in vain demanded aid from his^fubjedls and the neighbouring chiefs : his crimes and tyranny had alienated the hearts of the former, and the: latter refufed to engage in fo bad acaufe. Finding* liis ie-ftorts at heme prove to no purpofe, he fled to king H^nry the Second of England, who was then engaged in the vvars of France. Though he washimfelf prevented by what feemed at that time of much greater momenfc^* he.; gave permiffion to his fubjefe to engage in this tKi-i dertaking: v;/hereupon Richard, earl of Strigule, fttt^ ■namc;d Strongbov/, and feveral other Engiiih lords, raided tfQops at their own expenc^, Tte firft that landed - i^^ibii ^ >^ A here Iv Ni jn R O D U C 1^ 1^0^ hexe-was Robert Fitzr Stevens, ia May 1 169 ; fome time ^fter arrived Stiongbovv, who married Eva, the king of Leih'^ iler's daughter, and was declared fuGceffor to hi&eroWm- On the 18th of Odober 1171, king Henry in ^r fon^ landed at V/aterford, where he received the horfiage- tjf leveral chiefs, and Rodoric himf^lf fubmitted tof MS^ power. Thus, after a few inconfider-able lieges a^iii- Ibnie Ikifmifhes, with very equal faccefs, the whole nir-»"' tion put itfelf under a foreign yoke. Such is the effe^F of inteiline divifions ! This fubmiiBon has given occafibri^ to many difputes, whether it can be properly termed a; conqueii or no; but for this I mull refer you to a book/ excellent in its kind, viz. Mr. Molyneaux's Cafe of Ire- land. In this, and in the Draper's famous Fourth Letter>'^ it is attempted to be proved, that Ireland is fubjecl hy' right only to the kiiig of England, and therefore that the^ people or parliament of England can have no power to' bind Ireland by laws made there. But I confefs this is' cut of my fphere, and the reader will judge for himfelf^ - on the perufal of thofe pieces, whether the authors are in the right or no. From the time of this ceilion, till the revolution, Ire- land was never thoroughly quiet; a continual Hate of difcord between their natives and the new lords, kept both in very unhappy circumilances. The Engliili for many years, lived altogether within what they called the Pale^ ' which comprehended only four or live counties ; but now their families are fo blended by interniarriages and other occafions together, that thefe difagreeable diflinclions are ^ entirely forgot, and in all probability, a few ages will fee this as flouriihing and happy a country as any in Europe. In this place, it may not be improp"er to take notice of the ancient government and manners of this nation. It appears from what has been already faid, that, notwith- Handing the many fubdlviiions and petty kingdoms, as they were called, all thefe little monarchies paid tribute, ^ and were as valfals to, one fupreme king, who was ge* nerally of the race of Heber or Heremon. During the peatarchy or divifion of the whole ifland into five king- doms, viz. Muniler, Leinfler, Meath, Connaught and Ulfter, the moil powerful prince of the five gen^^rally ob- ^ -A 6 tained ^ IN T R O D V C T 1 O 1^. tained the foverelgnty ; but the pentarchy is faid to have ceafed in the fifth century, and after that, there vvials no fuch thing as a regular eledtion, orfucceffion, but the ftrongefl was ftill uppermolL This chief monarch wa$ called king of Ireland, and often king of kii\gs, allud- i«g :|to the number of vaiTal princes, who did homage tb' IBjn. All thele fupreme monarchs were crowned on thet'' famous Hone called Lia Fail, or the Fatal Stone, till* about the year 5 13, when Fergus, a prince of the royal' Item of Ireland, who had obtained the fovereignty of Scotland, got leave to remove it thither for his own coro- nation. It remained at Scone in that kingdom, till Ed- ward the Firlt of England, who conquered great part of Scotknd, took it thence, and placed it (with the an- ■ tient chair) in Weftminfter- Abbey, where it is preferved^^ for the ufe of the Britifh monarchs at their coronation* " The ancient hiftorians tell you, that this ftone ufed to emit a fupernatural found, if the monarch placed on it was defcended from the royal line of the Milefians ; but that this virtue, as well as- other heathen oracles, ceafed on the birth of our Saviour. Thus much is certain, that in all the three kingdoms where this ftone has been, they have taken the utmoll care of it, as a very extraor-- dinary treafure ; and that a prophecy was once in much repute concerning it, which fome fay was formerly in- feribed upon it^ as follows :, Isi fallat FaHm, Scott quccunque Ihcatum'. ''.Jn'uement Lap idem, Regni ienentur ibidem^ In Engi^ish, - Or fate is falfe, or where this llone fhallbe ■ The Scots will rule, a powerful monarchy. Which, in fome fort,, m.ay be faid to be Hill in force, as the. prefent illuftrious family of Hanover deduce their ritle from a daughter of king James the Firil, who was defcended lineally from Fergus above-mentioned, the firft - Scouilh king of North Britain, who was drowned at, and^ ■ ■ ■ ■ .ill -c3mt).g INT R O D JU^C^r i O xiii gave his name to, Carrickfergus, an ancient city of Uifter, as he was returning to fee his own country. It is well known, that the refidence of the Irilh mow narchs was principally at Teamhair, Temoria or Temra, now called Tarah, in the county of Meath. At this place alfo was held the great triennial convention or par- liament, confifting of the provincial and petty kings, and all the chiefs and other nobility of the kingdom. This was the court by which all laws were enabled, and other bufinefs done for the general advantage of the nation. I find, that we in England have a much meaner opinion o£ the ftate of the Irifli kings, than is ^authorized by thai earlieft accounts. In thefe unpolifhed times,, we mult not-/ exped to hear of a pomp and luxury like thofe of the mo* : dern courts ; but I have good reafon to think,, that rre»:' land was much on the fame footing as her neighbours, - in that refped, and indeed with regard to the general ' ftate of the whole nation : What do our barons and their .: feuds differ from the petty princes of Ireland, except ia • title ? We can gather from, their antiquaries, that each^ monarch always entertained the following ten officers in his court, which (by the way) does not favour greatly of' barbarity, viz. a lord, or prime miniiler> a judge, ■ an augur or druid, sl phyfician, a poet, an anti- quary or herald, a chief mufician, and three flevvards of the houfhold. That they wore crowns of gold, appears plainly from one difcovered not long fince (in 1692) at a place called the Devil's-Bit, in the county of Tipperary, raifed in cliafework, which mull have been made before the Chriflian a^ra, as it had not the crofs, which after that period the crowns of Chrif- tian princes never were without.. It feems to have been a monarch's crown, having a refemblance to the clofe crowa of theeaflern empire. It is flill preferved in the caille of Anglurre, in Champagne, where it was carried after the lall war in Ireland. Another crown of gold was found ia.; the bog of Cullen in 1744. And that they wore very^ ^ magnilicent robes, is evident from the laft will of Qor-^.;j mac M*Cuillenan, king of Munfler, and archbifhop of ,r> Cafhel, flill extant in fome antient manufcripts, where he mentions particularly his royal robe, that fhineth witH fparkling gems. In fhort^ the drefs and cuiloms of the aatient antient Iriih, differed in few or no rer^e(^s^frp»i. thofe of tKeir neighbours the Fritons. ; _ The^ir habit, though it would appear rude to us at pfel'^nt, muiL have had no unbecoming cfFed:. Over a. clofe vqil and drawers, or fto::kiags and breeches in one, thqy wore a large cloak or mantle, carelefoly thrown over one ihoulder. The matter of this was according to the ability of the wearer ; tlie lower fort had it of f-ieze, v/itha fhaggy bcfJer; but their chiefs generally of fcarlet cloth, with a gold or filver fringe. The drefs of the women diHefed but little from that of the meh ; their under gar- ment or veil was long J they were very curious in platting and' adorning their hair, which cuftom they retain ftill in feme parts of the kingdom. Both fexes wore an immo- derate quantity of linen in their fhirts and Ihifts ; bufc this was prohibited, as well as the other deviations from tile Engliih drefs, by a6l of parliament, when Ireland was ereded into a kingdom by Henry the Eighth. At prGfent, fomevery remote parts only excepted, the peo- ple drefs entirely in the Englifli fafliion. I fhall conclude this fummary of the manners, with fome obfervations on their funerals. The Irilh continued that, cleanly, though pagan cuilom of burning their de^d, - long after Chriilianity ; and that they preferved the boiles in urns, as the Romans and other nations did, ap- pears from four or five of thofe veffels, of a very rude v/drkmanihip, wherein v/as contained a kind of aihes, each covered with a tile or flat flpne, foupid in a rock or cayerin, near Pov/er's- court, in the county of Wipk- low. 'tlie famous Irifh cry, illll in ufe at fome of their funerals, is no more than this: A kind of fong is com- po.fed in relation to the family^ anions, and poffe (Hons of the deceafed, v/hich 'is fung by fome women to no difagreeable tune ; for, by the way, the Irifli mufick has fornething pacuiiarly fweet and melancholy, and the whole nation feem to have a turn that way. At the end of each ilansa of this fong, a chorus of women and girls raife a melancholy howl, which is called the IrilJl , ' cry, and fometimes made ufe of without the fong above- V mentioned^ ' t I N T R O D U C T I 6 $7. For the arms and military equipage of tlie old Irilh, t fhall only fay, that they bore a very near refemblance to thofe of the Britons ; that they were always efleemed a brave and warlike people, which charader, notwith- ftanding their eafy defeat at the revolution, (undoubt- edly occafioned by want of difcipline, ill pay, and worfe arms, befides the ill condu6l of their weak king) they Hill retain, as is. apparent from thediiiinguiihed figure they- have made feveral times in the v/ars in Germany. On the ecclefiailical hiftory, (as it is no very entertain- , ing fubjed) I lhall be as concife as pofTible. Chriftianity was introduced here by St. Patrick, a native of Britain, nephew to St, Martin of Tours, about the year 432. This primitive bifhop v/as a man of mofl exemplary piety, and, as he laboured in his apoftlefiiip with unv/earied diligence, the new faith made a wonderful progrefs ; nnd in fome ages this ifland grew fo famous for religious men, that it was lliled the Ifland of Saints. The many ruins of religious houfes throughout the kingdom^ are an inconteflable proof this ; and we find mention made ia many authors, of a great refort to Ireland for the ilLidy of divinity. In feveral authors we have fufhcient reafons given us, that the religion of the old Irifh was pure from thofe fuperflitions, v/hich, without number, crept into the church in after- times, and was brought over here principally by the Englifh conqueil ; for Ireland did not become abfolutely popiih, till after the Englifn got pof- feffion of it; and thence may we difcern, the reafon why the pope W3.S fo liberal in his gift of it to FIenry IL Cardinal Paparo, the pope's legate, in the year 1152, made a nev/ regulation in the government of the churchy The archbilhopricks and their fuffrages are at prefent as follows : Under Armagh, primate and metropolitan of all Ireland^ are. M^ath,/ Down and Connor, Clogher, Derryj, Killmore, ' •> ffol^n^ Dromore, Under Dublin, primate of Ireland, GlendrJogh, or 7 churches . united with Dublin, OlTory, Leighlin and Ferns. Under Cafliel, primate of Munfler, Emly, united with Cafliel, Cork and Rofs, Limerick, Ardfert, and Ag- Cloyne, hadoe, Killalloe. W^terford and Lifmore, I bsi id irf 01 a " -no3 ^-^^XlnSiir Tuam, primate of Connaugfit, Elpjm,', I Killala and Achonry, , Clonfert, Killmaduagh, and Ardagh, lately united wtt^, Kilfenora^. 1 Tuam Of rhefe, Meath and Kildare are always privy coun-^ fellor?, and take place of the rell ; and here I mull ob- fejve, that the church livings in Ireland are, generally fpeaking, better than thofe with us, and more equal,, which is no fmall advantage to the clergy. The pro- te&ion given by an aft of parliament, in 1778, to the catholicks of this kingdom, in the free exercife of their religion, it is not doubted will contribute greatly to their fatisfadicn, and promote the good of the common caufe of the people. I fliall now endeavour to give a general view of the prefent flate of this kingdom, as far as has come within my knov/ledge. As to that peculiar blefling of Ireland, in not producing or nourifliing any venemous creature,. Mr. O^-Ia 11 or an fays, that even frogs were never known to live there before the reign of William IIL indeed, it is not improbable but the breed of them might have come , from France in the fuite of James II. The climate of Ireland would almofl: pi?rfeftly agree with that of England, v/ere the foil equally improved,,,- being abundantly fruitful both in corn and gra^s, efpe— cialiy the latter ; in confeqiienee of which, an infinite num- ' ber of black cattle and fheep are bred, particularly in the pvQvince of Connaught» Few CQuntrlea produce liner I N T & P P V C TI O K. xvii finer grain than that which grows in the improved parts of this kingdom. The northern and eaitern counties are bell cultivated and inclofed, and the moft populous. ' ; ' Ireland is known to have many rich mines ; and them is no inconfiderable profpedl of gold and filver in fome^ parts of the kingdom. No country in the world abounds more in beautiful lakes, both freih and falt-water ones ; and it is alfo plentifully watered with many beautiful rivers. The commodities which Ireland exports, as far as her prefent trade will permit, are hides, tallow, beef, butter, cheefe, honey, wax, hemp, metals, and fiih wocl and glafs were, till December 23, 1779, prohibited ; but her linen trade is of late grown of very great con- fequence. England, in the whole, is thought to gain yearly by Ireland upwards of 1,4.00,000 1. and in many other refpefts (he mufl be of very great advantage to that kingdom. Formerly, indeed, Ihe was rather a burden to her elder filler than any benefit; but the times arc changed now, and improve every day. Mr. O'Halloran fays, the linen manufadlure was car- ried on in Ireland in very early days, to a great extent ; and Gratianus Lucius quotes a defcription of the king- dom, printed at Leyden, in 1627, in which the author tells us, That this country abounds with flax, whick is fent ready fpun in large quantities to foreign na- tions. Formerly, fays he, they wove great quantities of linen, which was inolHy confumed at home, the natives requiring above 30 yards of linen in a fhirt or flilft.'* So truly expenfive was the Irifh fafhion of making up ftirts, on account of the number of plaits and folds, that in the reign of Henry Vllf. a ftatute pafled, by which they ^vere forbidden, under a fevere penalty, to put more than feven yards of linen in a fhirt or fiiift. We may fojin fome idea of what the trade of Ireland mufl have been in former times, when fo late as the reign of Brien Boru, who died in 1614, notwithftand- ing the ravages and diftrefTes which a Danifh war, of above 200 years continuance, mull have produced through- out the kingdom, the annual duties arifing from goods imported^ in to the fingle port of lyimerick, and paid in re3^ vWhei^^^titdtatid to ]6c pires ! Evert fo lately as the 'J 'in ii Uft century, it i.s fcarcely credibk, what riches this city derived, from the bare manufadure of Ihoes, which were exported in ^.rnarJng quantities ; whereas now, inilead p|' .ftbes and boots, we fee the raw hides ihipped oix for foreign markets. e/. -No country in the world feems better fituated for a 'iferitime povver than Ireland, where the ports are con- veiiient to every nation in Europe, and the havens fafe and corarnodious. The great plenty of timber, the fu- perior excellence of the oak, and the acknowledged fKiil of^her ancien.t artizans, in v/ood-work, are circiii-nllanceg clearly in her favour. Formerly, that the Irifh exported Urge quantities of timber; is manifeft from the churches ^ ^f 'Gloucelier, Weilxninilcr monaftery and palace, &c. tS^ing covered with Irifh oak. The government of the kingdom is in the hands, of a viceroy or lord lieutenant, who lives in v^y great fplen- clor. In his abfence there are lords juftices, (fliled their excellencies) generally three in nurriber, viz. lord pjiinale, lord high chancellor, and the fpeaker of liq lijoufe of commons. The parliament of Ireland laeet t^very other v/inter, or cftener, according to exi- gencies. Their only power coniifts ija propoiisg bills, which are fubjecl to the privy-councir of England, and in a negative voice to ai>y ajniiendmeats. As to civil magiftrates, asd the diilribation of jultice.^ they are here (Qn. the fame footing as in England. Ireland is reckoned to be about 300 miles long, and 150 broad, from eait to weil. It is in circumference about 1400 miles. Its area or fuperficial content, is computed to be 11,067,712, Irilh, or if^gzy^SS^ Engiiih acres. The proportion it bears to England and Wales is fup- pofed" to be as iS is to 3,0, or as to Scotland as 17 is to 13; has 2293 parifhes, and 118 boroughs,, which, with 32 counties, eacli fending two members to parli^irAent, ipakes- the comfnons of Ireland amount to 300. The ,.'p.cGr^ are unlimited. It is divided into fo.ur la?ge pro^ ^^^ni-Qs,^ and thofe again into thirty-two counties, as fbi-- I N T It O D U C T I O N. 'ift. U L S T E R, Houies.i Chief Towns. XIX 3. 4- 5- 6, Antrim 20738 Armagh 13125 Cavaii 9268 Down 26090 Bonnegal 12357 Fermanagh 5674 Londonderry 14528 Monaghan 26637 Tyrone 16545 Beifall Armagh C avail Down Patrick Donnegal Innifkillen Londonderry Monaghan .Dungannon Extent, &c. Leng. 68 Bread. 98 Irifii plantation Acres 2836837^ 4496205 ^ Parifhes,3.65 [EogliHi & Boroughs, 29 6 Baronies 55 5 Archbifhopricks i Biiliopricks 6 Market-towns -58 ■ 2cl. ^ L E Houfes Cather.logh, or Car low 5444 Dublin 24145 Kiidare 8887 Kilkenny 3231 King's'county 9294 Longford 6057 Lowth 8150 Meath Eaft 14000 Queen's -coun- ty 1 1 226 INS- Barqnies Car low 5 Dublin ^ Naas or Athy 1 0 Kilkenny Philipliowa Longford Drogheda Trim 10. Weftmeath 9621 1 1 12. Wexford Wicklow 13015 7781 Maryborough 8 Athlone orMul- lingar 1 2 ^ ■ )rd 5l Wextord Wicklow E R. ^read. 55S: "^^^cum. Leng-, Bre?:d, ... Iri. ac.2642958jOr428ii$5 Pariflies858 [Engli'lh 9, Boroughs 53 Baronies 99 Market-towns 63 Archbifhopricks i Bifhopricks 3 The fivers are, the Boyne, Barrow, Liify,, Noir, and the May. Clare Cork Kerry Limerick Tipperary W ate r ford 3d, M U N S 1 1 3 8 1 Ennis Cork Tralee or Din gie-Icouch ' Limerick C Ion me 11 Waterford 47334 11653 ^^>0; 1832:; 948 c T E R, Leng. 10© Bread. 107 Acres 328993 Pariflies 740 Boroughs 26 Baronies 63 rioufes 1 1 7197 ^ 6oocir- miles < I cum?. 29 1 4.6 [Engiiih 4th. C 0 N N A u I, Gahvay 15576 Gahvay 17 Leitrim 5156 Leitrim 5 3. Mayo 15089 Mayo 9 4. Rofcomm.on 8780 Rofcommon 6 Siigo 5970 Siigo 6 flrchbifhop i. Bifhops G ) 5o(5cir- ^ cumf. G FI T. Acres 2272915^ 3681746 Parities 3 30 [Engliih Borougho 10 Baronies 43 Archbifhop i. Bifliops i Houfes 49966 Rivers are the Shannon^ May, Suck and GyiL XX I N T R D, (^^^T^ I.O^K, In 1731, while the duke of Dorfet was lord lieutenant, the inhabitants were numbered, and it was found that tlxe 1 -gs^ -four prwinces contained follows : Cbfenaup-ht 2I6o4•1^'.'?:'^^^''^ ^'"^t" . 221780^ l^nHtr V 20308/f 447916 , M^m^j^^^ ^82044 y p .f^^A. Llif^r' -5.Ai ^^^o6j2l 158028 r ,i bar. ^ ' ' 7WS3^ 1 309768 J There are forty-four charter working>fchools at pre-* fent in Ireland, wherein 2025 boys and girls are main- tained and educated. Thefe fchools are fupported by a% annual bounty from his majefty of 1000 1. by a tajc upQi), hawkers and pedlars, and by fubfcriptions and .legacies. The children admitted, are thofe born of popifli parents, or fuch as would be bred papifts, if negle£ted, and are of found limbs. Their age mull be from fix to ten; the boys at fixteen, and the girls at fourteen^ are ap- prenticed into proteftant families. The liril fchool was opened 1734* Five pounds are given to every perfon educated in thefe fchools, upon his or her marrying a pro- teftant. An Englifh ad of parliament, lately tolerated the catholic religion in Ireland, and by that means has. relieved thoufands of ufefui fubje£ls. The return of houfes in Ireland for the year 1754, was 395,439, and for the year 1766 it was 424,046 ; fup-, gofing therefore the numbers to have increafed at the lame rate, the number of houfes now cannot be Icfs than 454,130; which, allov/ing five perfons to a family, will make the number of inhabitants 2,260,650 ; but as the return of houfes by hearth colledors, is rather under thaa above the truth, and as there are many families in every parifh, who are by lav/ excufed from that tax, and there- fore not returned, the number on a moderate eilimate ;will be 2,500,000. SirW. Petty reckoned 160,000 cabins without a chimney ; and if there be an equal number of fuch houles nov/,the number of people will be above 3,000,090. Mr. Molyneux fays, Ireland has certainly been betterin- Kabited formerly ; for on the wild mountains betweea. Ardmach and Dundalk, is obfervable the marks of the plough, I N T R O D U C T I O N. xxi ptough, as it is alfo on the mountains of Altmore. Tte lame 1 am informed has been obferved in the counties of Londonderry and Donnegal. Mountains that are now co- IZf^^Tt bogs have been formerly ploughed ; for when you dig five or fix feet deep, you difcover a proper foil for vegetation, and find it ploughed into ridges and furrows ; A plough was found in a very dead bog near Donnegal j and an hedge, with fome wattles Handing under a bog that was five or fix feet in depth. The Hump of a large tree was found in a bog ten feet deep at Caftle Forbes ; the trunk had been burnt, and fome of the cin- ders and alhes 11,11 were laying on the ftump. Mr. Mo^ yneaux further fays that on the top of an high moun- /nH '..V" 'r ^""."^ '"""^ remaining the ftreet^ and other marks of a large town. m England, among the lower ranks of life than in Ire- ZaI r • ""^^ ^°«'^ver, be attributed to the mere Zff fA L""^-, England the meaneft cottager U better fed, better lodged, and better dre/Fed. than the moft opulent farmers here, who, unaccullomed to what our peafants reckon the comforts of life, know no luxury out in deep potations of aqua vita;. From this circumftance, we may account for a faA reported to me, by the ofiicers of the army here. They fay that the young fellows of Ireland, who offer to en- hft, are more generally below the given height, than feffie ^'""^''^ " I can fee no reafon, why the caufes which promote or fSr iir^''' °t ^hould^o7have fimilar effefts upon the human fpecies. In England where there ,s no ftint of provifions, the gromh ft Tr J^f^'^^A ^" '"^ •^""^^''^^y " extenid to thJ IreTn^ .'^ of nature's original intention ; whereas in Ireland where food is neither in the fame quantity, nor: of the fame quality, the body cannot expand itfelf but IS dwarfed and ftunted in its dimenfions. ^ ' England ; the difterence then, between them and the. commonalty,* XKii INT R OJD^IIXK^ P ^. commonalty,^ cati-onljr grq<:pd^^^^ of food. if^y-j'-^ '"'"''I'" ' ^ ' '^The inhabitants, in general, of this-kirig'dom, are very far from being what they have too often and unjuftly bteh reprefented by thofe of our country who never faw them, a nation of wild Irilh ; fmce 1 have been in ' Ireland, I have traverfed from north to fouth, and from weft to eaft, but more particularly through the provinces of; Ulfter, Leinfter, and Munfter, and generally found them cinl and obliging, even amongft the loweft clafs of the na- tives. Miferable and opprefTed, as by far too many of th^m are, an Englifhman will iind as much civility in general, as amongft the fame clafs in his ov>^n country; and, for a fmall pecuniary confideration, they will exert them- felves to pleafe you as much as any people, perhaps, in the king's doininions. Poverty and oppreflion wiTl naturally make mankind four, rude, and unfociable, and eradicate, or at leaft fupprefs all the more amiable principles and paffions of humanity. But it Ihould l^^em unfair and ungenerous to judge of, or decide againd, the natural difpofition of a man reduced by in-^ digence and opprellion aimoft to defperation. Let coiti- merce, agriculture, and arts, but call forth the dor-' mant adivity of their genius, and rouze the native, fpirit of enterprize, which now lies torpid within thera j let liberal laws unfetter their minds, and plenty chear their tables, they will foon fhevv themfelves deferviiig- to rank with the mofI: refpedlable focieties in Europe. Before I conclude this Lntrodudlion, I cannot omit re- ifiarking, that bogs, wherewith Ireland is in fome places' overgrown, are not injurious to health, as is commonly' imagined ; the v/atery exhalations from them are neither fo abundant, norfo noxious, as thofe from marfhes, which' become prejudicial from the various animal and vegetable firbftances, which are left to putrify as foon as the watef^ are exhaled by the fun. During the overflov/ing of the Nile,' Egypt is comparatively healthy ; when the waters fubfide, putrefaction takes place, and the plague returns. Bogs are not, as one might fuppofe from their blacknefsj, maffes of putrefa6tion ; but on the contrary, they are of fuch a texture, as to i'efift putrefa6iion above any othQj: fubftattcc wc knoVV'Of. ' J KaS/^e feen a fiioey ali of oiie piece xxni pI^ce *riea:thtr;vWf neatly ftlicliea. taken ou t of a W fome years ago yet entirely freili ;_from the verf fafluon of which, there is fcarce room to doubt thaT it had lam there fome centuries. I have^ feen bitter ca lei roufkin, wh.ch had been hid in hollowed trunk- of S fo long that It was become hard, and almoft friaS ye not devoid of unauofity, that the length of me k Lih rf\l, "^ZT'y from s depth 6f the bog, which was ten feet, that had '.voZ over It. But the common pha^nomenon of timber-tre^- dugout of thefe bogs, not only found, but alfo foem balmedas afterwards to defy the injuries of time d^- monflraie the antifeptic quality of them The horns of the moofe deer muft have lain manvcen- tunes in a bog; for the Irifli hiftories do not recogn "e the exiftence of the animal whereon they grew. Indeed human bodies have, in many places, been dug up endre Which muft have lain there for ages. ^ ^ ^ The growth of bogs howevert is variable in different places from the variety of conditions in the fituat oJ foil, humidity, and quantity of vegetable food; in fome places It IS very rapid, in others tery flow ; a^d "here! fore their altitudes cannot afford any certain meaAire of In the manufaauring counties of the north, I found l>eat fuel was become fo fcarce, that turburies lett f, om five to eight guineas an acre. In fome places they are fo eradicated, there does not remain a trace of them the ground being now converted into rich meadows and fweet If we trull to authorities, we muft conclude that Ire land was not originally inferior to England either fn' the fertility of the foil/or falubrity of tie climate ind upon the vyho e, from what I have read, heardrandVeeh I^muft join iffue with Cambrienfis, that " nature has looked with a more favourable eye than ufual uoon thi. kingdom of the Zephyrs." When this country Aa I, have felt the happy effeas of the late indulgencils^oS Bntifh parliament, by repealing feveral arts which 2 Araine4 the^ trade of this kingdom with fore jn parV and allowed the exportatiou of woollea m^fSS^. xxlv INTRODUCTION. and glafs ; and lliall have received further indulgences^ now in agitation, from the fame authority; and when the fpirit of induftry fliall be infufed, in confequence of it, into the common people, their country will not be inferior to any other on the globe, under the fame pa- rallel. It is very difficult to fay, whether foreign or do- meftic caufes have operated moft powerfully in laying wafle this fruitful country ; which, by being relieved front their late unnatural prohibitions, will be enabled to furnifli a grand proportion of fupplies to Great Bri- tain, and will unavoidably become of vaft importance by its reciprocal trade, in retraining the increafe of that of France, who cannot carry on this important branch of traffic, without the affiftance of Irifh wool. The wool of France is Ihort and coai fe, being, in the language of the manufacturers, neither fine in the thread, nor long in the ilaple. This obliges them to have recourfe to the wool of Ireland, whi«h poiTeffies both thefe qualities. AffiHed by a pack of Irifh wool, the French are enabled to ma- nufacture two of their own, which they will no longer be able to procure, as the Irifh will now work up their own wool, which they u fed to export; great part of which found its way to France, and enabled them to fupply other markets to the great prejudice of Britain. The happy effeds of it being already felt ; for, notwithfland- ing it was fo late as December 23, 1779, that-the Royal Ailent was given to the taking off their reflraints on woollen exports, it appears, that on January 10, followr ing, an export entry was made at the Cuftom-houfe of Dublin, of 1300 yards of ferge for a foreign market, by William Worthington, Efq« A T O U R A T O U THROUGH I R E L A In 1779. CIRCUMSTANCES of life, ^nd natural inclinations, encouraged me to cultivate my domeftic inftru6liens with that liberal know- ledge of men and things, which, by experience, I have found is beft obtained by obfervation and convcrfation in different countries* I was advifed not to begin with the Grand Tour of Europe, which is commonly laid down as a tafk to be performed by our Englifh gentry as foon as they are taken from fchool ; but to pafs over into that country firft, which, on account of its laws^ religion, political dependence, &c. ought to be re- garded and thoroughly known next to Great Britain, and fo complete a tour through his majefty's dominions of England, Scotland, and Ireland ; the latter king-, dorn, reported by hiiiorians to abound with no inconfi- derabie ftore of antiquities and natural curiofities, and B affordini^ R N D, A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. affording a large fund of gratification to the Bfitifh traveller. Having crofled St. George's Channel from Liver- pool, the moft profperous fea-port town on the weftern coall of England, the firft land w^e made w^as Houth Heath, a point of land about eight miles eaft of Dub- lin, forming the north point of its bay, w^hich is about three or four miles wide, and fix or feven deep. The bar of this harbour is very incommodious, but the en- trance into the harbour, being at lealt eight miles from Dublin city, is extrem.ely beautiful and pidlurefque, diverfified with hills and promontories on either hand, exhibiting a very fpacious amphitheatre, bounded by a high fhore, and faid to be exceeded in grandeur by none, except the bay of Naples, to whofe fuperiority cf view Mount V efuvius does not a little contribute. The country all round is fprinkled with white villas. From the entrance the light-houfe or pigeon-houfe on the fouth fide of the harbour appears to great advan- tage; at a little diftance from it is Irifh Town, (two miles diftant from Dublin) to which place the dyke from that city reaches; and which, when carried on to the extent propofed, will confiderably encreafe the quantity of marfh ground already retrieved from the bay, at the bottom of which the river Liffy difcharges itfelf. The city of Dublin is not feen to advantage from the water, yet the landfcape upon the whole is highly rich and beautiful, being horizon'd in fome places by mountains, exactly conical, called the Sugar- Loaf-Hills. I am perfuaded there are many who would not regret a journey thither for this fingle prof- peft, to render which compleat, a number of circum- ftances are neceffary, but which can feldom concur, fuch as the feafon of the year, the time of the day, and the clearnefs of the atmofphere when you enter the bay. The magnitude of the city of Dublin is much great- er than in genera! imagined, being nearer a fourth than a fifth of that of London 3 if you view it from any of the towers A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. 3 towers it feems more, but from walking the ftreets you would fuppofc it to be lefs. In 1 754 there were 12,857 houfes in this city j but in 1766 they were in- creafed to 13,194; and are now further augmented to above 13,500, which indeed is far fhort of one fourth of the number of houfes in London, yet there is not fo great a difproportion in the number of inha- bitants, who are fuppofed, at a moderate computation, to amount to 160, coo. It is nearly circular, about eight miles in circumference. We fee it to great ad- vantage from any of its fteeples, the blue flate having a very good effeft. The heft view is from the Phcenix park, (the Hyde park of Dublin,) but much more ex- tenfive than ours, and w^ould be exquifitely beautiful, ifdreffed and planted, but except fome thorns and the clumps of elms planted by the late Lord Chefter- field when he was Lord Lieutenant, there are very few trees upon it. In one part of this park his Lord- fliip raifed a handfome column of free-ftone, fluted with a phoenix on the top, iiTuing out of a flame ; with an infcription on the bafe, im.porting that he em- bell ifhed the park at his own expence for the recrea- tion of the citizens of Dublin; and his name is ftill held in veneration among them. In this park is a fort. The grcateft part of Dublin is very indifferent, but the new flreets are as elegant as the modern ftreets of Weflminfter. Lately has been added to it an ele- gant fquare, called Aderryon's fquare, built in a fuperb ftile. Near that is the fquare called St. Stephen's Green, each fide being near a quarter of a miile, proba-r bly the largefl: in Europe, round which is a gravel walk of near a mile, where genteel company v/alk in the evenings, and on Sundays after two o'clock. This fquare has fome .grand houfes, and is in general well- built, and although there is a great inequality in the houfes, yet this in fome refpeft adds to its beauty. In the midft of it is an equeftrian ftatue of George II. in brafs, ereded in 1758. The fituation is chearful, and B 2 the A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND, the buildings around it multiply very faft. A new iquare has lately been begun, called Palatine-fquare, near the barracks^ a regular fine range of buildings, which, when compleated, will confiderably add to the growing improvements of this city. The quays of Dublin are its principal beauty; they Jie on each fide the river LifFy, which is banked and walled in, the v/hole length of the city; and at the breadth of a wide ftreet from the river on each fide, the houfes are built fronting each other, which has a good efFeiSt. This embankment, when paved, will be lliperior to any part of London. The LifFy runs for about two miles almoft in a ftraight line through the city, and over it are five bridges; of thefe EflTex- bridge is the moft worthy of notice. It confifts of five arches of ftone, the chord of the middle one is 48 feet; it was begun in 17535 finifhed [n about a year and a half, and coft 20,000 guineas. It has raifed foot-paths, alcoves, and baluftrades like Weftminfter- bridge, of a white ftone, coarfe but hard. It fronts Capel-ftreet to the north, and Parliament-ftreet to the fouth. The length is 250 feet, and breadth about the width of that at Wellminfter; here the tide rifes on an average about ten feet. Queen's- bridge was re-built in 1764, is exceedingly neat, and confifts of three elegant arches. The other bridges are not worth mentioning, as they are merely con- veniences to fave the trouble of ferrying acrofs the river, and defy every order of architefture. At the end of EflTex-bridge is the elegant nev/ building of the Exchange, which does honour to the merchants who conducted it, the expence being moftly defrayed by lotteries. The whole is of white ftone, richly embel- lifhed with femicolumns of the corinthian order, a cu- pola, and other ornaments, with a ftatue of his prefcnt majefty, George III. erected in 1779. Near this, on a little eminence, is fituated the caftle, the refidence of the lord lieutenant, which confifts of two large courtSj A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. $ courts, called the upper and lower caftle-yard; in the latter of which are the treafury, and ibme other public offices. Though there is little grandeur in the outward appearance of either, yet,, upon the whole, this caiUe is far fuperior to the palace of St. James's, as well in the exterior^ as the fize and the elegance of the apartments within^ Over the gates leading to the upper yard, are two handfome ftatues, viz. Jul- tice and Fortitude ; thefe^ with an equcftrian ftatue of William HI. in College-green,, ere£led in 1701, ano-- ther of George II. already mentioned, in the center of St. Stephen's-green ; and a third of George 1. in the Mayoralty-garden, and of George III. at the Ex- change, are all the ftatues erecSled in Dublin, except the two on the Tholfel. To expect m.any v/orks of the fine arts in a country but juft recovering from an almoft uninterrupted war- fare of near fix hundred years, v/ould be to look for the ripe fruits of autumn in the lap of fpring. Even London cannot boaft of many, confidering its mJghty opulence. A fingie church, on the continent, is fome- times decorated with more ftatues, than are to be feen in the greateft city of Europe. Here are tv/o cathedrals, eighteen parifh churcheSj befides feveral chapels, meeting-houfes, &c. Neither of the cathedrals are remarkable for their arch i tenure ; and as to the parifh churches, except on the front of three or four of their fteeples, external embellifhm.ents have been little ftudied; all that feems to have been attended to, v/as neatnefs and convenience within; but they are generally deftitute of every monumental decoration : In the cathedrals only, are to be feen whatever of the monumental kind is worthy obferva- tion. In that of the Trinity, or Chrift-church, the fcuiptures which merit notice are, i. that erefited in 1570 to the memory of Richard Strongbow, who died in 1 177, but has lately been injured by having been painted white. 2. That of Mr, Thomas Prior, foun- B 3 dcr 6 A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. der of the Dublin focicty, an elegant piece of work- manfhip, executed by J. Van Noft in 17565 v/hich re- prefcnts two boys of white marble, one pointing to induftry and Agriculture, expreffed in baflb relievo, and the other to a reprefentation of Minerva leading the Arts towards Hibernia. Beneath, on a fcroll, is an infcription by the late Dr. Berkley, the celebrated bifliop of Cloyne. 3. That of the earl of Kildare, Vv^ho died in 1743. This is fituated on the north fide of the choir, and is very fuperb, executed in white marble by H. Cheere. The late earl, afterwards duke of Leinller, and his fifter, are reprefented mourning- over the body of their father. 4. In the nave of the cathedral is that of lord Bowes, late high chancellor of Ireland, who died in 1767. It reprefents, in white marble as large as life, the figure of Juftice, in a pen- five attitude, looking at a medallion, with his lord- Ihip's head in relief, v/hich flie holds in her hand, and weeps over it. The v/holc is pathetically expreffed. This cathedral is the more beautiful of the tv/o^ yet the choir is rather too much narrov/ed by three rows of pews on each fide, which leave the aifie between them of not more than ten feet width. It has a gallery on each fide. The organ is placed on one fide of the choir, near the altar, in a gallery. The chorifters go lip into this when the anthem is fung; and, what may feem extraordinary, they have only one fct of cho- rifters for both cathedrals, who perform at one cathedra! in the morning, and at the other in the evening. Bot\\ the cathedrals are on the fouth fide of the river. In St. Patrick's the monuments are more in num- ber, but not fo v/ell executed; that erefted in 1766 to the memory of Dr. Smith, late Archbifhop of Dub- lin, is indeed, by fome, efteemed elegant, but in my opinion the maffy columns of Italian marble are too large for their intended ufe. The epitaph you may fuppofe is very claffical, when you are informed it was writtt^n by Dr. Lowth, Biftop of London. Oppofite to A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. 7 to It is a plain monument of Dr. Marfh, formerly Archbifhop of this See, whofe benefailion of a valua- ble library to the public, is a more noble memorial of him. In the fame nave are tablets of black marble, one to the memory of a faithful fervant of Dean Swift ; another ereiled lately to that of Mrs. Johnfon, his celebrated Stella ; and a third over the facetious Dean him.felf. In the choir are feveral monuments of more antient dates, the principal of which is that of the family of Boyle, ere£led in 1629, an enormous pile of wood, with near twenty clumfy images as large as life. In the chapter-houfe is a black flab over the Duke of Schomberg, who was killed at the battle of the Boyne. The modern-built churches in Dublin have neither' fpires nor lleeples. There are two or three of them adorned with elegant ftone fronts. The Round Church, on the fouth nde of the Lifty, is, as the name expreffes it, really round, and very convenient for the performance of Oratorios. Speculative men have been much divided in their fentiments about the proportion which Proteftants bear to Papifts in Dublin. According to fome inaccurate returns, the number of houfes belonging to each de- nomination is nearly equal ; yet it is generally thought, that there are two Papifts for one Protcftant, moil: of the poorer fort, and nearly all the fervants, being of the firft clafs ; and among the Papifts chiefly it is, that many families are crowded into one houfe. There are but few public buildings here of any note; in Ship-ftreet, an antique round tower, feldoni noticed by the inhabitants of Dublin, w^as demoiiftied during my ftay here. By fome antiquarians it is fup- pofed of Druidical ere£licn from its fhape; but others are weak enough to imagine it Danifti, of which there are feveral fimilar ones in different parts of the kingdom, as I lliall hereafter notice at Clundalkin. If ereded by the Danes, it is fomewhat remarkable, B 4 that 8 A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. that none fuch are extant in Denmark. GiralrJus C^inibrenfis, who vifited Ireland in 1172, defcribes very minutely thofe narrow and lofty round towers, pecLiIirir to, and fo common in this kingdom, as having been built long before his time. Not only in the more open, but in the mod fequeftered parts of the kingdom, are thefe towers to be feen, and always near the remains of ancient churches. A late ingenious snd learned writer remarks, So blindly and wilfully prejudiced have modern writers concerning Ireland been, that the very maritime cities, in which the lofty towers, ftrong walls, and elegant buildings befpeak. the power as well as the tafteof the ancient Irifli, are all attributed to the Danes, — a favage, barbarous crew, v/hofe eruptions, like thofe of their fucceflbrs, the Saxons, were every w^here marked with blood, rapine, and defolation ! We every where read of countries laid wafte, people as v/ell as buildings delrroyed by thefe Barbarians, but not a word of improvemxents. The Bifiiop's Palace, or St. Sepulchre, is very old, and lituated not far from St. Patrick's Cathedral. The Parliament-houfe in College-green, begun in 1729, finifhcd in ten years, at an exp^nce of 40,0001. is truly a moft auguft pile, and admirably conRTu£ted in all its parts. The Houfe of Lords is beautiful, and as elegant as any public room in Great-Britain. The iloufe of Commons is octangular, capacious, conveni- ent, and magnificent, infinitely fuperior to that at Weftm-infter. This building is looked upon as one of the principal ornaments of the city. The front is a portico of the Ionic Order, and, in general, well executed, in the form of the Greek n, fupported by lofty columns of Portland ftone, and is affirmed to be one of the moft perfeft pieces of architeClure in Europe. Near the Parliament-houfe ftands Trinity College, which conftitutes the whole of the Univerfity, con- filling of two fquares ; in the whole of which are thirty-three buildings of eight rooms each. The buildincr A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. building has twenty-three windows in front, is of white ftone, and of four (lories in height. It was be- gun in 1591. Indeed its fituation adds much to its grandeur. College-green, which is the name of the ftreet leading to its front, regularly widens as you approach the College, and terminates in a triangular opening; on the right is the Parliament-houfe, and in the center of the triangle an equeftrian ftatue of William III. Three fides of the further fquare of the College are built of brick, and the fourth is a moft fuperb library, which, being conftrii died of very bad ftone, is mouldering to ruin. The infide is beautiful, commodious, and magnificent, embeiliflied with nineteen bufts of antient and modern worthies ; among whom are thofe of Plato, Socrates, Ariftotlc, Cicero, Demollhenes, Homei', Shakefpcar, Milton, Bacon, Newton, Locke, Boyle, Swift, Uiher, Gil- bert, Delany, &c. &c. A great part of the books, on one fide, vv^as colle£led by Archbifhop Ufner, one of the original Members of this. Body, and beyond comparifon the m.oli: learned man it has ever produced, The remainder on the fame fide was the bequeft of Dr. Gilbert. The modern publications in this li- brary are very few, as there have been but fcvv^ addi- tions made for above 40 years paft. The nev/ fquare^ three fides of which have been built within 20 years pafL-, by parliamentary bounty, and from thence called- Parliament-fquare, is of hewn ftone, of a coarfe grain, but fo hard as to refift the corroding tooth of time. The front next the city, is ornamented with pilafters, fefloons, &c. Near the college, in the fame line, is the Provoft's houfe, a handfome building of free-ftone. The chapel of the college is as mean a ftru6lure as caji be conceived ; defiitute of monumen- tal decoration within, and coarfely fimpje without. The old hall, v/here college exercifes are perform^ed, is in the fame range, and built in the fame flile ; but the new kail where the members diiie, is a large, fine B 5 locm* 10 A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND, room. In the Mufeuni are but few obje-as built by the knights-templers, about the year 1300. Their firft inftitution was begun at Jerufalem, v/here they had an hofpital to live in, in order to defend the fepui- chre of our Saviour ; but in time they fpread them™ ielves into all the chriftian parts of the world. You may fee feveral of their monuments in your Temple church in London, in armour, with their fv/ords drav/n and extended by their fides on the ground, that church being built by them. By donations their endowments were large; but by their affluence they forgot their firft noble beginning, and by degrees fell fo much into vice and rioting, that they became a nuifance every- where. In the year 1308, in the reign of Edward II. of England, their inftitution was broke by a bull from the pope, and the profits of their lands allov/ed to the knights of Rhodes, or knights Hofpitalers. They had not many years gained footing in this kingdom; and we are informed this Bally-William-Roe was their only feat here, which they did not enjoy above eight years before their diffoluti'on. This was of large ex- tent. A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. 45 tent, as appears by the remaining walls, and ftands in a fine fituation. FromTullogh we kept the direftroad to Baltinglafs, a fmall town on the Slaney, in Wicklow county , and from thence vifited a place on the left hand, In the road to Kilcuilen-bridge, called Ballymore-Euftace, a fmall town on the river Liffy, with a handfome bridge over that river. This town feems very much decayed, though in a very pleafant fituation. It was formerly of much larger extent. The chief reafon given for its decline, is, that the great fouthern road, which for ages led through this place, is now turned by the way of Kilcullen-bridge, which has enriched that place, and almoft ftarved this; but it has much bettered the tra* veller, and fhortened the way, as we are informed. Near this town is a fine large common ; and it was a very agreeable fight to fee fo many cattle, of different forts, pleafantly feeding on the fweet grafs, as rich as any meadow produces. Here is ground marked out for horfe-races. Not far from the town we faw a moft beautiful natural cafcade, that lhamed all the art we had ever feen, formed by a river that rifes from the mountains of Wicklow, and falls into the Liffy. Na- ture has been extravagant in many places i-n this king- dom that we have feen already, and we are told of ma- ny more, that, if it pleafe heaven, we will fee. How ill is this noble country reprefented by ignorant or un- grateful people ! But to return to the before-mentioned cafcades, for there are feveral of them : Each forms a little lake, till it makes its v/ay to the next fall, and fo on till it pours down into the river belov/. The river Lifiy divides the counties of Dublin and Wicklow. The lands on each fide, that border this ftream, feem to be fine ara- ble and pafture, and yield a very good profpect. At Ballymore-Eultace we were entertained with viewing the ruins of a fine old caftle, formerly a place of great ftrength. We were informed it v/as built by Euftace^ 46 A TOUP. THROUGH IRELAND. Euftace, the head of an ancient family in this coun- try, from whom the town takes its name of Bally- more-Eiiftace, that is, the great town of Euftace. Our Irifh interpreter tells us, in the native language Bally is Town, and More is Great ; but it has loft much of its laft epithet; therefore we will fet forward. Two miles hence is a beautiful fituation, where is a noble houfe, built, but a few years fince, by artificers brought from different parts of Europe, the feat of L Leafon, Efq. PVom thence we arrived at Bleffinton, a plea- fant place, on a rifing ground. The church is very lieat, and well kept, with a fv/eet ring of bells, a thing not very commonly met with in this kingdom. T'he town is neither large nor rich, but its chief orna- ment is the feat of a worthy nobleman, that bears the title of Lord Bleflington, whofe houfe is at the end of an avenue to the left of the road, with a nobler large terrace-walk, a quarter of an Englifli mile in: length, that leads to the church in the town, acrofs the road, which faces the houfe. Behind the houfe lies a beautiful park, (kirted with rifmg hills. This iiobleman's praifes fill the m.ouths of every body. I have more than once told you we may often judge of the mafter by the fervants, which I think almoft an infallible obfervation; for when we exprefTed a defne of viewing the houfe, the doors flew open, and the major domo attended to fhew us every thing that was curious. The building is formed like a Roman H, ,not vv^ith much oftentation, but elegant, neat, and well furniftied. What claimed the chief of our attention was the chapel. You enter the chapel at the end of a fpacious hall where the communion-table faces you, railed in with excellent carved balluftrades, and afcend- •ed by three marble fteps. Under the communion- table is a vault for a repofitory of the dead of this noble fiimily. On our left hand, as you face the altar, is a bifliop's throne, built after a very elegant maqner, v/itb a mitre of exquifite carved work. On each A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. 47 ■each fide are feats covered with crirnfon filk curtains^ and cufliloiis of the fame colour, trurxnicd with gold lace. The fervice books, which are of the largeft and beft forts, are covered with crirnfon velvet, and imbolTed with gold. The floor is of black and white marble; the fides and ceiling finely ftucco'd, with bafib relievos, and ornamented with gold. "I'his fine chapel was built by Primate Boyle, v/ho built this town, church and feat, and gave them the ring of bells I mentioned before. There is a monument, on the north fide in this church of Bleffinton, eredled to his memory, with the arms of the fee of Armagh. The infcription tells you what he did for this place, and concludes with this advice, jihi i^f fac tu fmiiliter^ i. e. Go and do thou the fame. After viewing the houfe of the earl of Bleffington, the chapel and the church, we mounted and fet out for Dublin. We paflfed feveral pretty new plantations, which we were informed were a barren heath not long fince ; but the encouragement the lord before-men- tioned gives to his poorer tenants, makes them the more induilrious, fince they work for themfelves \ fo that you now fee corn-fields, meadows and pafture, ri- fing out of the bofom of a dreary wafte. We next came to a place called Tallow-Hill, where we employed our eyes a full hour in contemplating as beautiful a profpeft as ever nature formed. To the right and left, you view a fine country well improved, with variety of old caftles, and new feats without number, as far as your eyes can fee ; before you the fine city of Dublin; further, a large harbour cover- ed with fhipping ; beyond that again, a profpeft of the open fea ; and forward to the left, a neck of land, or ifthmus, (for over it we could fee the ocean) terminat^^d with ^ bold front, called the Hill of Hoath. In fhort, we that never faw it before were ravifhed with the fight, I own it gave me a peculiar contentment : It looked . like reft after fatigue. This glorious profpe6l is about 48 A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. fix miles from Dublin, for here are road-ftones mark- ed ; but by our telefcopes v/e brought it almoft un- der the bottom of the hill. Riding ftill on, we came to Tallow, or, as it is called in Irifti, Taulaght, v/hich gives name to the hill. Here is a fine old feat, but it itands low. It is the county palace of the archbifliops of Dublin, and an elegant retirement. The gardens are handfome, and a little river that runs through part of it forms feveral pleafant canals. JOUR- JOURNEY THE SECOND: THROUGH PART OF THE South, and South Weft Counties, OF THE K I N G D O M O F I R E L A N D. XTAVING repofed ipyfelf a few Jays in Dub- J[ lin, I fat out on a journey to Cork, and Ki Harney ; and at the diftance of four miles from ihe capital, at Clundalkjn, ^ fmall place, I examined one of tho.fe round towers, for which Ireland is remark-- able, ofwhich, as I before obfen^ed, till lately^ was one in Ship-ftreet, Dublin, feidom vifited or regarded in the light of an ^nticjuity ; and as there are feveral others throughout the kingdom, a defcription of this at Clua-« dalkin will, w^ith little variation, ferve for itll of them. .It is eighty-four feet in height, and built of ftones each about a foot fquare, forming a circle of fifteen feet in diameter, the walls are upwards of three feet thick, and at about fifteen feet above the ground is a dgor, without any Heps to afcend to it ; the bafe is fo- lid; towards the top are four fmall oblong holes whicU admit the light, and it is terminated by a conic cover- ing; there are no fteps remaining in the infide, fo that . probably if there have ever been any they were of wood, c»r feme fuch perifliable material, D Some 50 A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. Some imagine them to have been watch -to^yers5 o-- thers belltVies, prifons for penitents, or pillars for the refidence of anchorites. Mr. O'Halloran, taking this latter opinion for granted, fays, Since ihefe ancient monuments, from their folidity at this day, appear to have been built with fuch art and firmnefs as al- moft to defy the ravages of time, and that they were the retreats of v/retched hermits and pious reclufes only, what muft not be the care of the people in ere6ling churches, colleges, and other public works of greater confequcnce - The author of the Philofophical Survey of the South of Ireland, fays, I cannot help inclining to the opi- nion of their being bellfries, as their very name in Iriih (Cloghahd), imports a fteeple with a bell ; and from the following confideration : Over great part of the eaft, they have tall round fteeples, called Minorets, with balconies at top, whence a perfon ** calls the people to worfhip at ftated hours. As the Irifti had their arts from Phoenicia, we may fuppofe ' from thence alfo came the model of thefe towers, which ferved as the Minorets of the eaft do at prefent, •'till bells came into ufe ; for, narrow as they are, (about ten feet in the clear at the bafe) they might hold a bell large enough to fummon the auditory, as eiFeclually as the fiiouts of a man." Thefe towers are always fityated very near a church ; and in the courfe of this tour, I remarked them in Dublin, Clundalkin, Sv/ords, Monefterboice, Antrim, Devnift, tv/onear Ferbane^ Kells, Kildare, Kilkenny, Cafhel, at Glandiiogh near Wicklow, Old Killcullen, and Caftle Dermot ; at Sligotwo; Drumboe, Down- Patrick, Cloyne, Weft-Carbery, Ardmore, Rattoo, one in the ifland of Scattery, another on the Cailtre ifland, both in the river Shannon, and one in Ram's Ifland, on the Lough Neagh. In the church-yar'd near this tower at Clundalkin, is a plain-crofsjof a. kind of white granite, unjpoli&ed ; it A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND, 51 it is of a fingle ftone, and nine feet in height ; as alfd the top of another crofs ftuck in the ground. The country for feveral miles on this fide Dublin, is flat, like that round London ; but it is not like it either in the multitude or magnitude of the trees, and ftill lefs fo in the appearance of the houfes on the road iide. At feven miles from Dublin we pafled through the village of Rathcool, which is moftly compofed of clay huts, fo aukwardly built, and irregularly difpofed, that even Wales would be afliamed of them, and it cannot but ofFend any traveller to fee fuch paltry edifices fo near the capital, where the landfcape is, in all other re- fpe6ls, fo beautifully diverfified. At fourteen miles from the city, after entering the county of Kildare, is the litle town of Naas, whofe appearance is very fliabby for a borough and fliire- town ; but there are fome pleafant feats near it, and the grounds fwelling into gentle undulations, give a fweet variety to that rich corn country. On the road hither is the ruin of a magnificent houfe^ begun, but never finifhed, by earl Strafford, when lord lieutenant of the kingdom. Near this, and about . thirty miles from Dublin, is the Curragh, or Race- ground of Kildare, where all great matches are run. It is the Newmarket of Ireland, and the fportfmen fay that the turf is equal to any in England, and exceeds that at Newmarket in circumference. It is a fine fod for the diverfions, and if it has any fault, it is its evennefs. It is a moft delightful fpacious common and iheep-walk, and the land extremely good ; but accord- ing to the opinions of feveral good judges, this plaiiT -is narrowir*g gradually, by a few enclofures now and then creeping forward. Government gives annually two plates, of one hundred pounds each, to be run for. Thofe were originally granted upon the fuggeftion of Sir William Temple, who, among other fchemes far the improvement of Ireland, recommended this with a view of improving the breed of Irifli horfes. As thisi D z fpoi 52 A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. fpot was remarkable for horfe-raclng long before king's plates were eftablilhed here, it is natural to fuppofe that it took its name from its being a horfe-courfe, and that it was called Curragh, from the Latin word Curro, to run. ' From this place we went to fee the town of Kildare, once the chief of the county, but were very much difappointed. The fituation is pleafant enough, and it had in former ages a more extenfive colle£tion of buildings, a great part of which lie burred in ruins, yet it is the fee of a bifhop. The cathedral was once a very fine building of the Gothic ftile. The walls and an old tower are ftill remaining, but are impaired by time. In 1641 a_ battery was planted againft this church, which defaced its beauty. The choir now in ufe is kept in decent repair, and a handfome Vene- tian v/indow fupplies the place of an old one. In the ruined part yet remain two ftone ftatues, not ill carved : the firft of a bifhop iii his pontiiicallbus, with two monks for his fupporters. Tliere are no infcrip- tions, or dates, left vifible, to point out the name of this reverend prelate; but I am told, that none of the noble family of Leinfter were ever colLited to that fee, whofe fupporters this bifhop wore. The other is of a knight in armour, in v/hich the artiil has fhewn more fkill thaji in the former, and the different cfcutcheons feemed very properly emblazoned. I was furprized to find fo little care v/as taken of them. Detached from thefe ruins is another in the fame ne- glected itate, once a convent of the nuns of St. Brigid; who, according to Giraldus, makes Kildare illuftrious by her unextinguifliable f.rcs, the afhes of v/hich have never increafed. The ver|y^ oak under which fhe delighted to pray, has giveh a name to the place. Brigid, you mult know, v/as the Virgin Saint of the landj and, after the Bleffec^ Virgin and St. Patrick,, held in the highefl: adoration by the Irifli catholics. She was worihipped like Vefta, with ujaextinguilhed A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. fires, kept burning by the nuns in their convent which v/as therefore called the fire-houfe. The ladies of Ireland are too wife to imitate this patronefs of virginity in making the vow, celibacy- being, perhaps, more uncommion here than in any other country. Yet the chaftity of the v/om.en, and the bravery of the men, are traits of the national character, on which thefe people, not without juitice, pique themfelves. Among the higher ranjcs, the indifcretions of the fair fex are, probably, as uncommon as anywhere elft^, and certainly more fo than in many other places. In a circle fo hnall, that not to know every body is to be unknown. Trcfpaffes in this way can never efcape ob~ fervation, and therefore cenfure muft be armed wicli double terrors. But whatever ftriclnefs guards decorum in the po- lite world, they tell you, that infamy does not long attend female frailty, in the lower walk of life. There a young woman may make the young fquire a father, and marry her fweet-heart the very next year, who values his bride the more. In the church yard of Kildare, is by far the finefl: round tower that I have hitherto feen, in good repair ; it is a hundred and thirty feet in height, built of white granite to about twelve feet above the ground, and the reft of common blue- ftone. The door is fourteen feet from the foundation ; the pedeftal of an old crofs is ftill to be feen here, and the upper part of a crofs lies near it on the ground. The ruins of the fix Gothic arches, with their but- treffes that remain, plainly ihew this was once a noble fpacious church ; and had not the carinon begun its deftru£tion, it might have remained intire to this day, fmce it was repaired as late as the reign of Henry VII. by the then prelate, bifhop Edmund Lane, who, it is fuppofed, lies buried in the fore-mentioned tomb* This cathedral was firft founded by St. Con- D 3 lian, 54 A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. lian, in the year of Chrift 503, and dedicated to St, Bridget. Though the town of Kildare was once the capital of the county, yet the affizes are never held there, which is one reafon of its decay : they are alternately at Athy and Naas^ for the better accommodation^ the town of Kildare being too much out of the \vay. Having vifited Kildare, we fet oft' for Kile alien- bridge, and in our way thither, we vifited the feat of HJ t€ii^ Euftace, Efq; which is a fine large buildino;, J^j^j with a noble court before it, that bore the face of ^;;,^^r\^^ntiquity, but yet no decay appeared in any part. The ^/"Mfy^iituation is on the fummit of an hill, and the front looks down from an high eminence into the river Liffy ; but what charmed us beyond imagination was *i vaft body of v/ater, in an artiiiciai bed of a large extent, where v/e faw a fhip completely furni Aed-, as if ready to make a long voyage by fqa \ her fails fpreMj her colours flying, anchors v/eighed, guns firing, and the failors neatly dreffed, every one at their proper funcStion, with their ufual fea- terms. This gave us inexpreffible delight. In a neat pieafure-boat we were conveyed on board, where, in a cabin finely ador^ied, we were feated, and ferved with an elegant entertain^ ment by the worthy owner, and among the rejl with fea provifions, bifcuit, &c. the guns ecchoing round the adjacent woods and mountains, that feemed to us like a piece of enchantment ; all this in a'bafon upon a high hill> I believe a hundred yards above the river, made by art, the bottom and fides paved. In fhort, no defcription can reach it. Thoiigh we were four hours in this agreeable employment, v/e were not cloyed ; and, when we came on fhore, if we m^y call it fo, we flood a long time on the delightful margin of the bafon to admire the vefiel, which was ftill under fail. The gardens and groves are very large and ex- tenfive, the walls fpacious, fheltered in feveral places with laurel hedges finely kept, above twenty feet high, and A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. 5^ and two hundred' yards in length ; others with y^w^ and different forts of holly, whofe different greens give variety of pleafure. I muft not forget to tell you that this artificial fea, as well as other variety of pond^^> breed and feed innumerable carp and tench^ whofe tafte equals thofe of Hampton-court, the place rnoft famed in England for thofe fort of fifh. This feat is a corporation of itfelf, ^and fends two members to par- iiament, though there is no town upon the eftate, only tliis fmgle houfe. The owner accommodates tm:^ eleftors with his hall, which is noble and fpacioiis^ andj though he never covets to be one of the reprc- fentatives, yet, during the election, he generou fly treats all the voters, as well as the candidates. Having fpent our time very agreeably at this de- lightful feat, we fat out for Kilcullen bridge, of fix arches, over the river Liffy. From hence we went down the river, to view a place called the New Abby, which, however, is now much in ruins, like all the reft of its brotherhood. The abby was founded hj Rowland Euftace, of a great and ancient family ia this country. The tower is ftill ftanding, and fome part of the abby. The ruins of the reft have contri- buted to build feveral dwellings near it. In the infiie Rowland Euftace and his lady lie buried, their figures cloathed in armour; and on the ground we faw the broken remains of the twelve apoftles^ Here are fe- veral neat habitations; and the river Liffy running by them, forms a pleafant fituation. It has a very winding courfe, from within a few miles of Wicklov/; ' and being joined by a few fmaller ftreams, runs a long journey of above fixty miles, and pours itfelf into the fea at Dublin ; yet not above fifteen miles from its head. On the other fide of the Liffy is a very handfome feat, belonging to the heirs of the late Tho - mas Carter, Efq; mafter of the rolls, in Ireland. Having again returned to Kilculien-bridge, v/e eroflbd over it, and proceeded ta Kilcullen, where is a D 4 pretty 56 A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND, pretty church to the right, on a hill, with a round tower, about half its original height. This town, though mean now, was fornierly very large, iind furrounded with a v/al!, for you bnter through an old arch at the turnpike. But as there is nothing more remarkable, v/e pafled on, and fav/ great num- bers of very handfome feats, with fine fituations, which to defcribe, would exceed my limits. In the road as wc purfued our journey, we were fhewn a large ftone, almoft in the form of a pyramid, on the very fummit of a hill. We afked a man at a cabin door, what it meant? He told us, they had it by tradition, that the Devil took it in his head to build a very large caftle in the neighbouring valley, but over-loading himfelf, that ftdne flipped through his iingers, and has remained there ever fince, though the ealtle, built of the fame materials, is now deftroyed. In proceeding from thence we left Dunlaven on the left hand^ and about a mile further vifited Nar- ragmore, the feat of Mr. Keating, on the right. This feat is a fpacious, lofty building, feated on an eminence, which commands an extenfive beautiful profpedl of mountains, hills, and vales, diverfified with feveral rivulets. The gardens are anfv/erable to the building,, and his entertainment generous, open, and free, v/ith fuch an amiable affability, as adds confummated plea- fure to the whole. From this charming fituation we defcended to a vale, when, within am.ileof Timiolin, on the right, our eyes ^ . were enraptured with the moft delicious fituation, JyM(^hfy%f\itit^ through the lofty trees, were beheld a variety of ^>*^^*tieat dwellings* Through a road that looked like a ^^c^'^^'^'iine terrace- walk, we hailened to this lovely fpot, — V/here nature, affifted by art, gave us the moft perfeft gratification* It is a colony of quakers, called by the name of Ballltore. The river Grifs winds its ftreams ^ccci^ very near the houfes, and the buildings, orchards, and gardens, ftiew an elegant fimplicity peculiar to that people. A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. 57 people. Their burying-ground near the road^ is fur- rounded with different trees, whofe verdure made us imagine it was a well planted garden, till we were in- formed otherwife. The hedges that inclofe their niea- . dows and fields, are quick-fct, kept of an equal height, and about every ten yards, trees regularly pierce through them, forming beautiful groves of a large ex- • tent. Induftry reigns amongft this happy fociety ; al. their works are executed with taile corrected by judg- ment, and feem to profper, as if heaven fmiled uppii their honc-ft labours. From thence v/e foon arrived at Timolin, through^ which runs the river Grifs^ which empties itfelf into (rr^ccc^ the Barrow. This place has little to recomm.end it,, except its fituation, a neat church upon a rifing ground, and a very good inn. In our road from Timolin, we paffed through a village called Moun or Moon, where 1% a large church, formerly a Francifcan m.onallery \ \ and near it one of the large Mounts or Raths ; where, a few years fince^ agentlem^an, by his P^^^^^^^^^^ ^^fi^*'^?^^^;^^^^^ was interred on the very fumrnit, v/hich his heiib ^'^^^^^-^f^py^jL^^^^ to be railed round, and planted v/ith trees.^ From hence it is not above three miles, to Caftle-Dcrmor. y^^ii^^^a^^ From Kildare to Ca{ye-Dermot the country is in/'' general pleafant, and diverfified with gentlemen's feats, . Caftle-Dermot v/as once a large fortified town^ arid the refidence of the kings who bore the name of Der - mot. It was facked and plundered by Bruce, in 1316 ^ but yet, though greatly, reduced in iize, is a borough town ; you enter it over a . pretty fiream called the Lane, that v/aters the pleafant meadows. The towii is fituated on a flat, and furrounded with a fine level > country for feveral miles. It had formerly four gates : the entrance fouthward ftill bears the name of Car- . low-gate, and the other to the north Dublin-gate, , though there are not the leafl: remains of either left. At the entrance of the town from Carlov/^ are the , ruins of a fine abbey of Francifcans, founded by Ge- jcaldj eai'l of Kildarcj about the middle of the thirteenth D 5 centuryj 58 A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND, eentury. It is large and fpacious, and the remains Ihew it to have been magnificent, particularly one of its windows, two of the aifles, and feme oftagon pil- lars, which ftill preferve the outlines of ancient gran- deur and elegance. There are two tombftones re- maining, one of which has the figure of death ill cut on one edge, and on the other of a corpfe, in a wind- ing fheet. The other tombftone is broke in two, and has a crofs near the top; but no infcription on either to inform us of the perfonages who lie buried under them. They have made the body of the church a fives- court, Avhich mull very much fcandalize the Roman catholicks, whofe mafs-houfe is very near it, in the church-yard, compofed of fome of the Hones from its ruins; and near that, is a meeting-houfe for Quakers, ib that there is a medly of religions here. This tow^n muft certainly have been once of great extent; for in the year 1377, a parliament was held here, and a mint to coin money. The inn where we dined was part of the parliament-houfe. There is a fine work-houfe here, and well endowed. We were Ihewn an old tower, now a pigeon-houfe, which is all that remains of the old fortifications. As to the caftle from whence it derives its name^ there are not even the veftiges to be feen. The Proteftant church is on the verge of the town, a very mean building; and clofe to it is another of thofe pillars, or round towers, covered and kept in good repair. In the church-yard is a large crofs, the upper part of which lies on the ground, but the pedeftal re- mains ftanding ; and by fome old dates we faw fcatter- ed on- pieces of tombftones, we were convinced this was a large church before the reformation. At Caf- tle-Dermot is the firft Englifli Proteftant fchool that was founded in this kingdom, according to that noble inftitution of the charter-fociety, -of which you have often had ample accounts in England, IVbile A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. While we were at Caftle-Dermot, we faw a mon- ftrous pair of horns, which came from Drogheda, and were to be put up in a gentleman's hall in the county of Tipperary. Thefe horns were once fixed to a fcuU that bore them, but were now faftened by art., The extremity of each horn was more than eleven feet; from the top of the head to the end of the nofe, two feet; and from the fetting-on of the horn to the end of the branch, near two yards. The branch was ex- tended like the palm of a hand open, with five fingers and the thumb, and three others lower towards the head. I fhould imagine the beaft that bore thefe horns muft be as big as an elephant, or very much over-bur- dened with the weight. We were furprized to find that thefe horns were the produce of this kingd.om,, and often found five or fix feet under the earth, in, ca- fually turning the ground for manure ; not fingly,, but frequently two or three together; therefore it is. ma- nifeft they v/ere once common in this illand, though no writer, as we could hear, gives any account of this native race, which is now extinct. . On leaving Caftle-Dermot, we turned to the left,, tlirough a little place named Richard's-Town, when we entered the county of Carlow, or Catherlow; and foon after pafiTed through another fmall village, called Kinmeagh^ to Burton-Hall, or Ballinakill. The ave- nue that leads to this beautiful houfe is at leaft an Englilh mile long, and the breadth large. On each- fide is a far extended wood, cut out with variety of viftas. The houfe is not very modern, built on an eminence, which has a gradual afcent. The gardens are fpacious, and are well planted. Behind lies a beautiful park of near 200 acres, circled with a ftone wall nine feet high, and v/ell ftocked. The fine vifta here is terminated by a ftatue of a gladiator. The wood in this fpacious park, upon any memorable oc*- cafion, is illuminated. The beautiful cafcade is. adorn ed v/ith elegant ftatues, fome of which are originals, D 6 brouffh 6^ A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. brought from Italy. The hall is fpacious, and built on a little river that parts the counties of Carlow and Kildare, fo that the table ftands in thofe two counties. A few years fmce a perfon, once poffelTed of a confi- derable eftate, by unforefeen misfortunes came to de- cay. A rigid creditor, by his fpies, had notice that the unfortunate gentleman was gone to pay his refpefts at Burton-Hall. The creditor hurried away to the ilieri£'of the county of Kildare, who, with his proper officers, fcon went to Burton-Hall, well afTured of their prey. The unfortunate gentleman was the ferft that perceived them coming up the avenue, turned pale, and fighing, cried, I am undone. The mafter of the houfe, knowing the affair, bid him take courage, for he fliould dine with his inhuman creditor and the foerifF in fafety ; and then placing him in a chair on the county of Carlow fide of the table, went to invite the harih creditor and the ftieriff" to dine with him. The flierifF, a gentleman of worth, told his bufinefs in a whifper, with concern. As foon as the creditor en- tered the hall, he cried out to the fheriff. There is your prifoner, take care of him ! But he foon was in- formed, the prifoner (as he called him) was in the county of Carlow, and of confequence the flierifF of Kildare had no power over him. The creditor was fo enraged at his difappointment, that he would not itay to dine, which did not difpleafe the company. From Ballinakill we proceeded to Rutland, by the Iriih called Rutlo. Here we faw^ the ruins of a large fpacious houfe, fronting a large grove, the improvement of a few years only : But to make amends for the ruin of rfie old boufe or caftle, there is a compact new dwelling, ere£i:ed upon an eminence, and near it a neat church, v/ith the church-yard furrounded with noble high trees. From this place we took a round of about twelve Irifli miles, palTed through a pleafant village called Palatine's Town, from a colony of induftrious peojplcj who driven from their native country by A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. 6i the perfecuting arms of Louis XIV. and now fpread over America as well as Europe. This place, and many parts round it, was formerly a bog, but brought into good ground by the willing labour of thefe people. But for what reafon they abandoned this improved fi- tuation I could not learn. We crolTed, in our return, the Barren again, after palEngby a very pretty feat, over another bridge at Bato. This little river takes its rife at a place called Mount Lernfter, and after a courfe of about twenty miles, falls into the Barrow at Carlow. The trout, pike, and eels, which this ftream produces, equal any of the kind in the kingdom. From Caftle Dermot it is about fix miles to Carlow, in the county of the fame name. On this fide Caftle- Dermot, the country grows lefs pleafant, and the road being one extended right line for feveral miles, becomes lefs fatiguing to the rider than to the horfe ; but as you approach Carlow, the fcene alters, the country feem- ing to be entirely occupied by gentlemen's parks, wall- ed in, and recently planted ; which will appear molt delightful v/hen the trees are full grown. The town itfelf is pleafantly fituated on the Barrow, over which it has a ftone bridge, and makes a very chearful ap- pearance^ from the number of white houfes fcattered up and down ; nor are you at all difappointed whea you enter it, there being a cleanlinefs and neatnefs in the ftreets I had not hitherto feen on this road. This town confifts of one main ftreet, and another, not of fo large extent, that crofles it in the middle, together with two or three back lanes. The church is but an ordinary fl:ru6lure, but the market-houfe is neat enough. The Town-hall, where the Judges fit in their circuits, is built over the goal, which you afcend by a flight of fleps from the ftreet. The felons, in the day-time, are feated on a bench, fetter- ed, before the door of the prifon, to beg and air them- felves. There v/as a good flefh market, and every *hing wore the appearance of a good Englilh village. Such 6^ A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. Such are the happy efFecls of a little trade ! For here they have a manufa£ture of the coarfeft kind of woollen cloths, and are concerned in fupplying the neighbour- hood with coals from Kilkenny. They have a horfe- barrack ; and on an eminence, over-hanging the river, ftands an old caftle, of an oblong fquare area, with large round to\vers at each angle; which has a fine efte£l. It was once walled, but fubmitted to Oliver on his firft approach; however, in 1577 it had fuftained a long fiege againft Roryoge Moor, then in rebellion againft queen Elizabeth ; but at laft was obliged to furrender, when it was miferably plunder- ed, and many of the inhabitants inhumanly put to the fword. Up the river from Carlow the landfcape is highly pi£lurefque ; and downward for eight miles along its banks, to Leighlia-bridge, the ride is delightful. At a due diftance the grounds fwell gradually into moun- tains, which, from their feet to their mid-fides, are covered with woods ; and, to enliven the profpeft, the. interjacent traft is fprinkled with feveral little white villas, neatly planted around. About two miles fouth eaft of Carlow is the fine feat of Stapleftown^, belonging to Mr, Bagnal, a fweet fituation, where nature has contributed greatly to afiift art.. The houfe is built on an eminence, that, with a gentle declivity, leads you down to a pretty river called the Burren,. v/hich is crofled by a bridge of feven arches. The houfe and gardens might ferve an Italian prince, v/ho> need not be afliamed of his refidence. Though this place is called Stapleftown, there are but- very few houfes in it. We croffed the fore-mentioned bridge,, with a. mill on our left, where we flood to pleafe our eyes with thi^ gentle winding ftream of the Burren, which wallies the bafe of a beautiful hill ; and paffed ^ feat called Benny-Kerry, built by Vigors, bi (hop of Leighlin and Ferns ; but the death of that prelate was the -prelude to its ruin, About a mile further call A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. 63 eaft is Mohlll, or Moyle,- a pleafant feat; from thence we turned to the fouth, and vifited a very old mmf^on of the houfe of Ormond. This is a gloomy, folitude, environed with awful towering trees, and much noted for ftories of apparitions, which heightens the horror of this folemn old pile. About two miles hence, on the other fide of the Barrow, are the ruins of another feat of the Butlers, called Cloghgrenan. It is a very ancient caftle, almoft covered with trees^ and juft hanging over the river, which makes the fituation very elegant and pifturefque ; but it is now in fo ruinous a ftate, that it muft Ihortly be entirely loft. Of this too the country people' tell many ftories of fairies, &c. which are not unpleafnig,. but too tedious to relate. We returned to the eaft fide of the Barrow, and vifited Kelly's Town, where we- faw a large ruined church dedicated to St. Patrick, and, as we were informed, built by that faint: If true, the foundation muft be near fourteen hundred years old. It formerly belonged to the ancient family of the Cummins, a name ftill furviving, and numerous in this country. There are feveral of that name interred in the church, whofe vaults are ftill remaining ; yet we could find but one, whofe infcription was intelli- gible, and as follows : Hoc jacet fub lapide Hugo Mac Gummins, 1603. I only mention this to let you know, that Proteftants and Papifts mingle together in the grave here. Near this church (which ftands on an eminence, where you fee a beautiful country round you) in a bottom, is a well, dedicated to St. Patrick, furrounded v^^ith a ftone wall, and fhaded with trees, to which, on St. Patrick's day, great crowds refort out of devotion. We were informed by the perfonn who conduced us, that a pro- phane wretch,^ who wanted wood for firing, repaired to this well to cut down one of thefe facred trees. The firft ftroke bet gave, he im.agined faw his cabin in flamesj and ran with the utmoft fpeed to quench thfe '64 A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. fire; but when he came there, he found every thing aS he left them. He returned to his work again, and giving another ftroke, faw the flames rife higher than before, which obliged him to repair home a fecond time, when finding all things fafe as at firft, he return- ed to the tree, and by his repeated ftrokes brought it down to the ground ; but before he could drag it home, he found his cabin and furniture entirely con- fumed to afhes. We were Ihewn the very fpot where the cabin flood, and no one will venture to ere the garden ftill remains, and borders on the rivers Bregah and Newre. This has been the laft in ufe. But the Black Abbey is a magnificent remain ; the windows are exquifitely curious, not unlike many you have feen ; the architraves in the outfide cornice under the parapet, are very expreffive of their origin. Of this fpacious ruin, two of the fteeples are almoft entire, and many of its cells ftill remain. In the body of the church lies a figure, and near it a vafe or font, with Irifh charafters cut round the border^ This is without the walls of the town to tiie fouth- ward. One of the old churches is converted into a mafs- ^ ,houfe, as the courts of two of the abbies are changed ' irtto barracks ; St. Francis's for horfe, and St. John's for foot. How difterent are the eftabliftimcnts of different potentates, at different periods ! The Pope's barracks in Ireland were once filled with old fellows, with fhaven crowns, and without feirts, but clgathed E ia A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. in long fweaty gowns, of black, and white^ and grey^ The king now fills .his conveiits with young fellows, wearing long hair, linen Ihirts, and fcarlet jackets, lined with all the colours of the rainbow. The caftle, whofe magnificence was heightened by ^the fublimity of its fituation, has been gradually falling into decay fince the attainder of the late duke of Ormond. It was in his time a fpacious fquare, two .fides of which only are now ftanding : one they are re- building, and the other two they have put into repair; but in a tafte too modern for a building of fuch an- tiquity^ and too frippery for one of fuch magnitude. TL'he front next the ftrect is built upon a level ground, and, with the chapel, forms a large fquare. You enter through a noble lofty gate of marble, of the Corinthian order; but, alas ! when you are once in, you have only the profpccSl of an illuftrious ruin y the noble large gardens are in much the fame ftate as the palace ; and the bowling-green is now common far any gentleman that pays for his pleafure. In a gallery of 150 feet in length, but very difpro- portioned in breadth, they fliew you feveral old por- traits: among thefe, in full length, are the whole Stuart race who reigned in England from Charles L inclufive, together with William III. who is faid to have dined here, on his march to the fiege of Limerick^ foon after the battle of the Boyne. But the moft remarkable piece is a. three quarter length of earl Strafford, faid to be taken but a fev/ days before his cataftrophe ; to which is contrafted, the pifture of the fame perfon, taken in the full career of his ambition. The different fituations of life are ftrongly marked in the countenance of each. In the room called the prefence-chamber, or at leaf!: in that next it, for I already forget, are the four elements in tapeftry, finely executed, and in high prefervation ; the glofs of newnefs feems frefli upon jth^m. In aiicther apartmeat is a fuit gf hanging*, •xepro- A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. 75 rcprefcnting the ftory of Decius, in the attitudes of taking leave of his friends, receiving the high prieil's benedidlion, &c. &c. and at length devoting himielL Thefe tapeftries, though not fo glov/ing in their co- lours as the feafons, are neverthclefs admirable ia other refpedls. Pity that they fhould be exhibited to lb little- advantage ; they are hung up in a room, the lhape of which is fo inordinate, that I queftion whether any two fides of it are parallel, and it is illuminated diagonally from a windov/, in a fegment of one of the round flankers. One of the largeft pieces is folded round the mixed angle at the window, fo that the part of it on the concave furface has a glaring light, while, that on the plain is almoft in darknefs. This room affords too many beautiful views of nature from without to require the facrifice of fo much art within. The fervant, who (hewed the houfe, told me the fituation was very like that of Windfor. I cannot fay the liJcenefs would have ftruck me, though there is at both places a tower, a caftle, and a river. However, let not Windfor faftidioufly difdain the comparifon ; for though the country round Kilkenny is not improved like that round the moft princely of the royal palaces, yet the fite of this caftle is at once bold and beautiful, with almoft every advantage that could be wifhed ta decorate the fcene. It ftands upon a precipice, overhanging the bend of a deep and rapid river, with two ftately bridges full in view : the more diftant, and up the ftream^ is com- pofed of feven arches, that next the caftle has but three, but of a very wide fpan^ of hewn marble^ ki fine elliptical proportions. The fides of the riv^r are well planted, and the fubjacent town looks as if it had been built merely to be looked at; for every thing in it worth feeing, bears upon the caftle, whilft: every thing diffightly is,^ fome-how or other, fcreened from the view. The horizon is clofed, in one limb, by mountains, placed at a due diftance, to give variety without horror^ and if any thing is wanting to render E 2 the 76 A TOUR THRou^JH IRELAND. the profpe£l inchanting, it is that the middle diftances^ are deftitute of that richnefs of cultivation, and that embellifiiment of country-feats, which is the capital beauty of Windfor. But Kilkenny is far more pic- turefque. Windfor caftle looked at, is auguft and venerable, but when you look from it, there is nothing to infpire thofe ideas. Not Eton's fpires, nor Cooper's claflic hill, not Cleveden's gay alcove, nor Glo'cefter's gayer lodge, can furnifti fuch a lavifli variety to thelandfcape painter, as thefe Hibernian fcenes. There nature has painted with her moil: correal: pencil, here fhe has daflied with a more carelefs hand. This is the fanci- ful and fiery fketch of a great mafter, that the touched and finiftied work of a ftudious compofer. Without either mountain or fea, no landfcape can, in my con- ception, be perfect ^ it wants the grand attribute of fublimity. Having obferved every thing remarkable in Kil- kenny, we paid attention to its environs, and am^ong other places vifited the Marble-mills, the fineft piece of mechanifm our eyes ever beheld. I think the in- ventor, Mr. Collis, ought to have his ftatue cut by the chifel of a Praxitelles. This admirable invention is fituated a fmall mile below the town, upon the river Nore, in a delightful bottom, the paffage to it through a pleafant grove. This engine, or rather the different engines, do their marvellous work by the help of the river ; and are fo wonderfully contrived, that they faw, bore, and polifli at the fame time, I am concerned, that I have not judgment enough to defcribe it fully as it deferves : Had I not feen any thing worthy of notice in the kingdom, but this one, I fhould think all my labours fully paid. Near the mill are apartments called warehoufes, where you may fee fuch a diverfity of chimney-pieces, ciilerns, buffets, vafes, punch-bowls, mugs of different di- menfions, frames for looking-glaffes, pictures, &c. that they would employ the eye the longefl; day, and yet A TOUR THROXJGH IRELAND. f; vet find fomething to admire. The marble quarry: that this precious vvork is formed from, is not above two hundred y^rds from the mill that does all thefe wonders ; and thouo-h it is not \nirieo;ated like the Italian, I am told it is full as durable^ and bears as fine a polifh as any brought from Italy. Though the ftone in this quarry fometimes might weigh feveral ton, yet the method the contriver has ufed to lift themy draw them out, and convey them to tlie m.ill, without any other than manual operation, adds ftill more ta the furprize. I am informed this ingenious Gentlemaiv fends yearly feveral fiiip loads to England. Several,- I am informed, have been to examine this artful won- der, (for it is open to all) but I cannot hear that any one has attempted to imitate the rnachinery. It is perpetually at work, like a fhip at fea, by night as> well as bv day, and requires little attendance.: And now, fince I have mentioned fo great a cu- r-iollty in art, I fhall acquaint you with one of na- ture, that we have feen, v/hith is called Dunmore Cave, about four miles from this city, on the other' fide to the north-weft, as that of the mills is to the fouth-eaft. The cave is fituatcd in the middle of a fpacious field, ahd the mouth of this natural rarity is diftinguifhed by a monftrous flight of different fpecies of birds, whofe numbers darken the air as you come near the mouth, and th'eir different voices feenied tO' tell us we were going to view fomething extraordinary. The defcent to the mouth is fiippery and difficult, and were it not for the help of the bulhes that fringe the borders, there would very few people attempt it. We were well prepared before-hand with large flam- beaux, as well as other different lights, and tinder- boxes, with proper implements, to renew our illumi- nations, fhould the damps of the place quite extin- guifh them all, which, we were informed, was very often the cafe. When you enter the mouth, a fud- den chilnefs feizes all parts of the body, and a dim- E 3 nefs 78 A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. Z'%^'''!v^ff ""i" ^''S^^'' P'^ce was fiiled Tiil, A H' °^ ^^'^ ^'ghts were extin- gailiied. Our faces, tnroiigh this gloom, looked as if ^ve wereacol eaion of ghofts, and the lights in our hands leemed as if we were making a vifit^to the infernal lhades. The paffage leads to the left, which brings you to a fiippery afcent, where nature has formed fomething like fteps, by the continual drop- pii^ from the ear^h above vou. When you have p^f ed this firft nfmg, the fining of the petrified water (for I think we may juftly call it fo) forms fo many aifferent objeds, that it is not unpleafing ; ^nd by the help of a little imagination, we mighJ make out organ pipes, pillars, cilinders, pyramids inverted, and ten thoufand various things in art, all lormed from the droppings of the water. We paff=d on upon a ll.ppery flooring, till we came to a narrow palTage which we crept through, fending fome of our lights before us. This part enlarged itfelf, and the roof or top was a great height; our voices echoed as ma church, neither was it much unlike ore. l^he bottom was pretty even, fave where fome pillars that were formed by nature appeared. In feveral places were fkulis and human bones, as it were fet in this chryfbline fubftance, but no account could be given iiow they came there ; certainly no perfon ever would make It an habitation. We were informed, that two miles from tne mouth was a well of wonders: but indeed, none of us had curiouty or courage enough to travel fo far m tins fubterraneous road to try its Virtues ; and nioft of us grew fo cold and faint, that we longed to breathe in open air. V/hen we came out, we thought we had abandoned the regions of the dead, to draw the air of parr-dife. They tell vou many romantick legends of this cave. . Returning to Kilkenny, v/e flopped to view Dun- more-houfe, fo called, as they fay, on the following account : A lady of quality was invited by the old / duke A TOUR THlioirGH IRELAND^. 7^ tfuke of Ormond to fee this place, who told him fhe thought he had done a great de?J at Kilkenny, hut ■ here he had Do7ie rnore^ from whence his grace ftiled his new manfion. This \Yas the country palace of the Ormond family. The fig;ht only renewed matter to feed another melancholy reflection, to fee fo noble a proportioned body falling to the grave with a daily decay, for want of proper affiiiance ; and if proper remedies were yet applied, it might flourifh for ages. This anatomy Hands on a pleafant eminence, over- looking the river Nore.. The avenues that lead to it are fhaded with rows of regular lofty trees, which called to our memories thofe walks from Peterlham to Ham, in S-urry ; but thefe have the advantage, in 01^ opinion* The fpacious garden is like a w^ildernefs, and the park with, very few deer. In {hort, fuch a place, formed by nature for grandeur or pleafure, is not often found in England. I faw the coal mines, which are well worth feeing. The pits are principally at Caftle-comber, nine miles north of Kilkenny the eftete of lord Wandsford, Vv^ho is faid to- clear 1O5OC0I. a year by them. If the grand canal were finiflied to the Barrow, he would then probably make much more, for that would open a communication with Dublin. But hills interpofe, which mxuft be pierced through for that purpofe. One would, however, think, that even a canal could not much lower their price, confidering the fol- lowing extraordinary fa£t. The carriers pay 5d. per hundred weight, and fell them for is. 8d. in Dublin, which is above eighty Englifn miles from the pits. Each car draws but ieven hundred v/eight, Vv^hich, with gd. for turnpike, makes the load ccft 3s. 8d. and it fells for lis. 8d. So that for fix days travelling charges of a man and horfe, there is but 8s. to fay nothing of the labour of both, and the wear and teai* of the car. They are faid to be laid down in the moft remote parts of the kingdom, at a price fo low, that E 4 it 8o A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. it alinoft puzzles calculation to make out how thefe v/retchcd carriers can fubfift. Thcfe coals are univerfally prized for drying malt v/ith, becaufe they emit no fmoke. A fire made of them yields a v^ry intenfeheat ; it does not blaze but glow, looking like lumps of red hot iron ; the vapour IS very dangerous, except in a room well ventilated. Though they go by the name of Kilkenny coals, there are fev/ mines in the county; they are moftly m the next county to it. I think there is little dif- ference between them, and what we have in London called Scotch coal, for they burn much alike. They are taken out of their mines or pits in the fame man- n^r as thofe in the county of Stafford. The carriages that tranfport them from the mines are drawn each by one poor garron, as they term them here. The wheels are one entire piece of wood, without fpokes, and very lo^, fo that the fhafts gradually rife till the points come up to the {boulders of the beaft. The lading iS placed in a vehicle, which is called here a kifii, and ftands in the middle of the carriage. The kifti is compofed of wattles^ or v/hat v/e call in England v/ickers ; ^nd in this they v^^ill place you fix hundred weight, v^hich they convey round the country. They fend large quantities to Dublin, eighty Irifh miles, and find thejr account in it : for men and horfes fare hard - fafture here is for coarfe cloths and fine blankets. Kilkenny values itfelf upon its fuperior gentility and urbanity. It is m.uch frequented by the neigh- bouring gentry as a country refidence, has a ftand of nine fedan chairs, and is not without the appear- ance of an agreeable place. I went lafl night to their w^eekly afiembly, and wds foon given to uriderftiind,.. by one of my partners, that Kilkenny has zlw^js been efteemed the moft polite and well-bred part of; the kingdom. Knowing fo little of this country,. I am not fur— nifhed with any argum.ents, from either reafon or au^ thority, to difpute this pretcnfion. My partner was fo beautiful a woman, and fo fir iking an exiimpie ef the doctrine fhe taught, that fhe led me away an eafy captive to her opinion ; for which I can fee the juft- eft grounds. This WaS the feat of the old Ormond family, here the laft duke kept a court, as feveral of. his pre'deceliors had done, in a ftile much niore mag-. nificent than any of the modern viceroys. 1 he people imbibed the court manners, and manners remain long after their caufes are removed. A.t prefent, the inheritor of the caftle and feme of/ the appendant manors, a Roman catholic gentleman^, aftecls the ftate of his anceftors ; his wife receives company as, 1 am told, the old Ormond ladies ufed to do; fhe never returns vifits ; and people feem difpofed to vield her this pre'Sniincnce. K § I made: tit A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. I made an excurfion with fomc gentlemen to draw a net near a place called Bennet's-bridge, on the Newre, three miles below Kilkenny : It is a poor mean place, but was in better condition when the road to Cork paffed over its bridge. It is a very pleafant country, with a variety of gentlemen's feats ; -and was rendered remarkable by the duke of Or- mondes reviev/ in 1704. I am not fingular in remarking, that the peafants rf this cowntry are a moft comely breed of men. They are generally middle fized, and have almoft uni- verfally dark brown hair, and eyes of the fame co- lour. Their complexions are clear, their counte- iKinces grave, and their faces of that oval charader, which the Italian painters fo much admire. A^mong other places in this neighbourhood v/e went to take a view of the ancient tov^m of Kells, or Ken^ lis, (in Irifh Kenenufe,) or rather the ruins of it. It is feated on the King's River, which falls into the Newrc, between Thomas-Town and Bennet's-bridge, Kells, in times part, was a place of great note for a fine priory of Auguftines, built and richly endowed by GeoiFry Fitz-Roberts, who came into this king- dom with Strongbow. The prior of Kells had the title of Lord Spiritual;^ i\nd, as fuch, fat in the houfe of peers before the re- formation. We faw the ruins of this once famous abbey, v/here a Synod Vv'as held in the year 1152, v/hen John Paparo, Legate from Rome, made one o? the number of bifnops that v/ere convened there at that time, to fettle the afiiiirs of the church. The fituation of this place has miany natural charms, v/ith z fine country round it. The church that is in be- ing now, is of a Gothic race, as indeed are mod of thofe we have feen where we have ^)een hitherto. Yefterday v/e v/ent to viev/ a place fix miles dov/n the river Newre, called Thomas-Town, in Irifh Bally-Mac-Andan^ that is^ the town of Anthony. It A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. 83 It was built by Thomas Fitz- Anthony, an Englifli gentleman, that came over v/ith Henry II. and is feated in a bottom, bordering on the river. It is an ancient borough, and fends two members to parlia- ment. In times paft it was accounted a very rich place ; but at prefent thofe features are wore to a vifible decay. The church is part of an old abby, in the ruins of which is a monPcrous tomb-fi:one>, which, they fay, covers the body of a giant ; and the inhabitants will have it, that one of their^kings had lain buried here feveral ages before this kingdom fub« mitted to the Englifli ; but we could not perceive any marks to affure us of it. There is a very fine bridge over the river ; and from this place to Water ford the fiream is navio-abie for fmall veflels. On a hio;h hill that overlooks the town, ftand the remains of a very large monaftcry of Auguilin frvers, whofe noble ruins droop their awful mouldring heads, and made u^: even pity their decay. In fhort, in v/hatever point we turn to, all over that part of the kingdom we have hitherto travelled, we faw ruins of this kind fcatter- ed over the face of the country, which might v/e!l give it the title of the iloly Ifiand in former ages. From Thomas-Town 1 again crofied the Newre, with the Canal on my right hand, -and at the dif- tance of about three miles, paffed through the little town of Knocktopher, in v/hich I found nothing re^ markable ; when, keeping the Canal and river Newre on. my left hand, I returned again to Kilkenny. The counties of Kilkenny, Waterford, ¥/exford, andCarlow, are over-run with lawlefs ruffians, called White-boys. Thefe are ignorant peafants, v/ho do not chufe to pay tythes or taxes, and who in the night-time aflemble fonie times to the number of many hundreds, on horfeback and on foot, well armed, and with ihirts over their clothes,, from whence their denomination is derived, when they ilroli about the country, firing houfes and barnSj burying people alive in the ground. 84 A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. cutting their nofesand ears off, and committing other barbarities on their perfons. The objects of their revengeandcruelty arechiefly tythe and tax-gatherers, and landlords, who attempt to raife their rents ; they never rob, neither do they moleft travellers. Re- wards of forty and fifty pounds are continually adver- tifed in the papers for apprehending any one of them, and from time to time a fev/ of thefe deluded v/retches (as the advertifements term them) are hanged, and efcorted to the gallov/s by a regiment of foldiers. Ex- communications are likewife read againft them by their priefts from the pulpit • but as they are fo nu- merous, it is not likely that they will foon be extir- pated. From Kilkenny I proceeded about feven miles to the town of Callan, the laft in the county of Kil- kenny, vvhich place feems to lie in the ruins Oliver left it. You fee the remains of three caftles, and an old church of the Gothick building, like all I have " hitherto feen, on the right as you enter the town ; but the roof is gone, and ail the reft a meer anatomy. This place had a reputation for ftrength when Oliver fat down againft it ; but I think that reputation was foon loft; for they fay Cromwell befieged it in the morning, and took it by ftorm before night. All that were found in arms v/ere put to the fv/ord, only the troops of colonel Butler, who fur rendered before the cannon fired againft the town. I went to fee the place where the battery was raifed, upon an artificial mount, that looked to me like one of the Dani/h raths or forts ; and had I not been informed to the contrary, I {hould have taken it for fuch. The fitu- ation of this place is very agreeable, upon a ftrearn called the King's river, divided in two branches above the town, which meet below it, and form an aight, (as we call it on the Thames) or little pleafant illand. The main ftrearn runs under a bridge of four arches, 2.nd the fmall one (after driving a mil!) under two. A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. ^ This river falls into the Nore, about nine miles from this place. I fliall give you a fhort account how this ftreara came by the royal title of King's river. Niall, a king of the race of Heremon, came with a great re- tinue of horfe to the border of the river, in order to ford to the other fide : the waters being rapid by means of a late flood, the firfl: man that rode in to try the paflTage, was hurried down the ftream with fuch violence, that he was given over for lofl: ; which the King feeing, ordered fome of his attendants that were beft horfed to plunge in to refcue him ; but all fiiuddering at the danger of the ftream, were afraid to venture. The good-natured monarch obferving this, went himfelf to feek for fome convenient place to plunge in with his horfe ; and finding one, as he thought, to his purpofe, was preparing to jump in, when the banks, being undermined by the violence of the torrent, broke down, and the poor prince loft his life in his pious endeavours to favc one of his fubjefts. This fatal accident fell out in the year 859 ; and ever fince this ftream has been honoured with the title of King's river. Upon this ftream, about a mile below Callan, is a very famous iron mill, that brings great profit to the proprietors. The town is built in the form of a crofs ; and in the centre a crofs is ere£led, with a fquare glafs lanthorn, that gives light in the night to travellers that come from the four cardinal points of the compafs. One would imagine this town fliould be in a more thriving condition, fince the two great roads of Cork and Limerick go thro' it. There is one hand fome feat, juft out of the town, in the Limerick road, be- longing to a gentleman of the Ormond family ; but we had not an opportunity of feeing the infide. It was market-day when we flopped there, where we obferved great numbers of what they call the ancient Irifh race. Men and women molily wore large frize cloaks^ $6 A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. cloaks, though a warm day. The women's heads v/ere wrapped up in thick handkerchiefs, befides their ordinary linen head drefs. We obferved a man mounted upon a little horfe, that moft of the others feemed to pay an extraordinary refpe£l to, tho' I thought neither his figure, or drefs, feemed to draw it upon him. I had the curiofity to a{I<: a gentleman in our company the meaning of paying him fo much civility, who informed us that perfon was of an an- cient race, and derived his birth from fome of the noted clans in the county ; and though the patrimony might have been in the hands of others for more than feven centuries, yet from father to fon, fince that time, the furvivcr ftill calls the eftate his^ though not a penny of the profits ever come into his pocket ; . but he enjoys it in imagination, and when he talks concerning it, fays, " lAy houfe, my land, my mountains, meadov/s and rivers, &:c." They are often allov/ed a cabin, and a fmall parcel of ground . rent free, or on a . trifling acknowledgment from the. proprietor, and expect to be treated with the utmoft . refpedl by everyone. The old Irifh gave him the title of his anceftors, make him and his lady (if he has • one) little prefents, cultivating his fpot of ground^ not fuffering him or his to do the leaf!: work to degrade . his airy title. I own this account, (if true, and I , have no reafon to contradift it) gave me a fecret . pleafure : it called to my miCmory an idea of many ages paft ; and when I obferved this man, I looked upon him as one of the ancient Milefian race, fo much renowned for their wifdom and victories, even before, chrlltianity had a being in the v/orld. Alas ! let us think what Egyptian, Grecian, and Roman great- nefs were, and the ftate they now are in. . In the year 1407, in the reign of Henry IV.. there , was a terrible battle fought at Callan, betv/een the Englifh and the rebellious Irife y and after a hard flruggle for viftory^ the rebels were entirely defeated. Aa A TOUR THiiouGH IRELAND. 87 An Irifh hiftorian tells us, that the fun was fo com- plaifant as to ftand ftill while the Englifli forces tra- velled fix miles; but I cannot find the ufe of it : I believe he might as well have gone about his bufinefs. An Irifb poet of thofe times wrote, in his own lan- guage, the following lines, which a gentleman tranf- lated as near the original as poffible. At Callan, 'tis faid, the fun it flood ftill. To fee the bold Englifli the lriflimen kill : But when the rebellious were put to the rout. He lafli'd up his fteeds, and whipt him about ; Then gallop'd amain to regain the time loft, And came in the nick to his weft-erly poft. So gapers, on errands, when time is in vv^afte. Run as faft as they can, to make the more hafte. Having left Callan, in about three miles we entered the county of Tipperary and province of Munftcr^ and foon after to a place called the Nine-mile-houfe, where there is but one inn, and a cabin or two, with a deferted barrack, originally built to check the Kelly- mount gang. The road from Callan hence, I believe, has anafcentfor about a mile, fomewhat bending, be- fore which is a fine level country. This hill is called Killcafli, and half a mile below is a noble houfe or caftle, the feat of the Butlers, from thence called Butlers, of Killcafli. From the top of this hill the profpeci: of the country is delightful and extenfive, and abundantly repays the labour of afcending it. On the right you have a fine view of Clonmell, and on the left Carrick-on-Sure, and beyond both, as far as the reach of fight, the eye can never be tired. Such a lovely view ! they may well call it the Golden Vale, intermixed with lofty v/oods, or rather groves, that rife above the fields and meadows, through which fe-^ veral noble feats peep out, whofe glittering v/indows, with the reflcclion of the xiiin^ fun, and its beams playing 88 A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND, playing in different parts of the river Sure, made it extremely pleafmg. This fine profpecl is bounded on the fouth, with ridges of hills, called the Mountains of Waterford, and fomewhat nearer by feveral others equally beautiful. Here the country affumed a very different appearance from what I had before obferved. The inaufpicious operation of paflurage became, however, vifible before I left Leinfter. For ten or twelve miles on this fide of Kilkenny, the foil was far from rich, it was rather indeed poor 5 yet it was pretty well cultivated, the fields were enclofed with hedges and ditches, and the country embellifhed with houfes and plantations. But, as the ground improves, on approaching the borders of Munfter, agriculture ceafes, and not ahoufe, not a hedge, not a ditch is to be feen. The country is abdicated by the human fpecies, and peopled with fheep. Nor v/as the change lefs evident in the manners of the people. There was nothing in them, hovvcver, that could remind you of the golden age ; no refem- blance of that fimplicity attributed by poets to the ftiepherd ftate^ nothing like that furly awkv/ardnefs of our Englifh clowns, v/ho have one general anfwer, I don't know,'^ to almofl every queftion a flranger afks. 7 hefe peafants have no fiieepiflinefs about them, are under no embarrallment when you fpeak to them, feem never at a lofs, but are blefled with an abrupt and fudden promptitude of reply. It may not, perhaps, be dlfiicult to accoant for this obvious contraft. Our peafantry, intent upon their ov^n proper affairs, are not at the expence of thinking upon other fubjedls; whereas thefe poor men, having neither labour nor trade to engage their attention, are more occupied with other people's af- fairs than their own 5 excujjlpropriis aliena negotia cu- rant. At Killcafh we avoided the road to Clonmell, and turned to the left haud about five miles^ whieix we ar- rived A TOUH THROUGH IRELAND. 89 rived at a town called Carrick-on-Sure, to diftinguifh it from another of the fame name on the Shannon. Here is a handfome bridge over the river, with arches wide enough for boats to pafs and repafs. Its fituation is very pleafant, and it has been a place of great ftrength, as appears by its caftles in ruins. There is a very good horfe-barrack formed from one of them. Here the beft fort of frieze is manufadured. Near this place is a park with the largeft whitethorne trees in it I ever fav/. Here too are the ruins of a fine old iioufe, that formerly belonged to the late duke of Ormond. This place was firft built by the Danes, and, after the conqueft, was new fortified by Robert Fitz-Stephen, who made it his refidence, till forced from thence by the rebellious Irifli, who chafed him to the walls of Cork. It was taken by Col. Reynolds, an officer in Cromwell's army, without the lofs of a man ; and all its fortifications were deftroyed by Cromwell's order. Every one that knows the cha- ra£i:er of Oliver, can tell he was an inveterate enemy to the Roman clergy. We were told a ftory, that one of them, dreading the fury of the foldiers, fecret- ]y retired to the houfe of an eminent lady in the town, put on a woman's head attire, flipped into bed, and when the foldiers ruflied into the chamber, imitated the female cries of a woman in labour; which coun- terfeit was helped on by the lady, and her female at- tendants. When the foldiers underftood, what they thought the truth, they decently retired, and fet a guard on the houfe, that the good woman in pain fhould not be difturbed on any account. The prieft's firft fears being partly over, they confulted how he^ fhould make his efcape out of the town ; for there was no fafety within the walls for him. He was drefifed as a woman from head to foot; when that was done, the lady fent to a proper officer for permiffion to fend two of her fervants to a neighbouring village for a midwife, and her requeft v/as granted. A horfe was 90 A TOUR THROUGH IRE LANS. was accordingly prepared, with a pillion and faddle- the servant mounted firft, and the foldiers, out of good-nature, affifted the prieft in fettinjr him behind the man; by which ftratagem he got himfelf delivered out of the hands of his enemies. From Carrick we croffed the river over the brid'-e- where we entered the county of Waterford, and pro- ceeded about five miles, to a place called Clonlea, a Imal] place, which gave us neither entertainment nor amufement; here v/e crofled^ a branch of the Sure, and proceeded to a fmall town called Killmacthomas about five miles from the fea coaft. Here are fome barracks; from thence we croffed the Bonmahon riveri c^n which It IS fituated, and about two miles farther 1< oxes s Caftle, on the river, nearly clofe on the road, yrom thence, about eight miles further, we arrived at i^ ungarvon, a feaport town, at the bottom of a aood bay. It is walled round, and defended by a caftl--. VVe made no ftay here, but proceeded ten miles fur- ther, with the fea on our left hand, over Slewguiv Mountains,, to Youghail, in the county of Cork. Ihefituation is agreeahle and romantick; but the harbour, in my opinion, is rather too open to be ac- counted of the beft. It butts direaiy upon the fea, vvnich, we were told, has gained upon the ftrand within theie few years : For it is not long fince the ftrand was Citeemed proper for a horfe-race; but now the fea has worn fom.any deep holes in it, that it is utterly ipoiled for that diverfion. The town confifts chiefly of one large frreet, with a few outlets on each fide. The barracks are neat enougii, but would contain twice the number that now occupy thtm. Youghail, we are told, was formerly a piace of good trade; but I own, by the countenance It at prefent carries, it feems to be long in mournina for the w?.:it of it. While our dinner was prep^rino■t we took a walk through its long, wide, empty ftreeti without meeting ten people, even on. the quay itfelf; I'here A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. 91 There were three fmall veflels at anchor, but they kerned to us as idle as Wcflminfter-hall in the long vacation; and yet this town, by aft of parliament, is one of the ports^ allowed for the exportation of woal from this kingdom to England, Wales, &:c. The cuftom-houfe is pretty enough ; but I believe the officers are not much troubled. In fliort, it feems a heartlefs, deje6led place. Its walls are turned to an anatomy, and even the ftones reduced toaflies; yet it formerly held out for the crown againft the rebel Def~ mond, in the reign of queen Elizabeth : He befieged this place, and for want of promifed affiftance the tov/n yielded ; but the mayor was hanged, by order of this viilorious malecontent, in the year 1579. This town fubmitted to Cromwell, notvv'ithftanding, in the year 1648, the corporation had proclaimed king Charles II. king of England, &c. At this port Oli- ver embarked for England, after his incredible fuc- cefles in this kingdom. The inhabitants feemtohave worn the badge of loyalty, more efpecially fmce the Proteflant fucceffion; and at the year 1678, I found an order in their records. That no Papift fliould buy or barter any thing in their publick m^arkets; and in the year 1704, there was but one Popifh Prieft in the town of Youghall, and its precinfts* We obferved the ruin or the ruins of two abbeys, one at the north, and the other at the fouth of the town. 1 here are the remains of a fpacious building, the col- lege, upon a lovely eminence, ^^hich we afcended by a great many fteps. Some of the apartments are kept in repair. From the top of this buildi^ng vv^e had a charming profpeft. The garden of tKis old place v/as in tolerable order. The college, or abbey, was dedi- cated to St. Mary; and here alfo are the remains of a Francifcan houfe, built by an earl of Kildare in 1232, which was Cromwell's head-quarters for fome time. There are feveral moiiuments belonging to fome branches 9^ A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. branches of the Boyles, particularly of Roger Boyle,, famous for his art of war, and fome dramatick pieces. This place is divided into upper and lower town ^ and the walls, which form almoft a fquare, are ftand- ing, but of little ufe. The large extended ftrand of Youghall, as far as the loweft ebbs uncover it, and probably much further, is no other than a com- mon turf bog, covered over with fand and pebbles ; from whence not only good turf is dug every feafon,^ but alfo great quantities of timber trees, fuch as fir,, haze], &c. have been found. Some years ago a fKele- ton of a monftrous animal was difcovered in this ftrand, one of whofe fhoulder bones weighed above an hundred weight. This ftrand fome years ago, I am informed, was entirely divefted of all its fand and gra- vel, and was left quite bare by violent high winds^ •when great quantities of roots of various trees lay ex- pofed to view. At the entrance of the harbour, may be feen the remains of the foundation of a mill ftanding on a rock, which fliews that the ocean has greatly en-< croached on this ftiore, nor can a large buttrefs of very large ftones refift its fury. Near Ring Point fevera"-! moofe deer horns have been dug up. At Clay-caftle the ground rifes confiderably, forming a promontorv, and even this has been encroached on by the fek This hill ftands about a mile fouth weft of the town, and affords a very entertaining fcene to the curious naturalift; for the pieces of the bank which break ofF and are waftied down by the fea, are by degrees petrified into a very hard firm grit as folid as any flone. The hill feems perfedly dry, without any fpring^ in which this petrifying quality can refide, which feems to exift entirely in the clay ; and in many refpefts agrees with that of Harwich Cliff" in England. At the extream point of Ring is a moft extenfive point of view. A little way up the river from the town, on a bold point of land, ftands the ruined caftle of Rincrew, once aivhoufe of the Knight's templars. In the neigh- bourhooci A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. 9;^ toiirhood of Youghall, there are the following feats : Bally Virgone, a pretty plantation, and remarked for having a liquorice tree, and a large fir brought from Newfoundland. Ballydaniel, on the weft fide of the bay, from whence is an extenfive profpe6t of the fea coaft and ocean. Near it is a fubterraneous river, as is another more confiderable at Caftlemartyr. Bally- macoda, a caftle built in 1521. Mount Uniack, in the parifli of Killeigh, from whence is a very extenfive profpe£t. In the gardens are orange, plantane and Cy- prus trees. About three miles fouth weft is the caftle of Inchequin, near which are fome plantations of witch elms, which bear feed. Having ftaid fome time at Youghall, and in its en- virons, we fet out towards Cloyne, and pafled a herony at Clonpreft, and fomewhat farther weft the caftle of Ightermuragh, which is well built, and one of the moft modern ftru^tures of this kind in the country^ About a mile fouth of Caftlemartyr, is a handfome feat, called Supple's court, fituated on a rifing ground, and enjoys an extenfive profpeft of all the improve- ment and new river of Caftlemartyr, v/hich is a pretty borough town, with a handfome church. The high road from Cork to Youghall, formerly laid more to the fouth, and ran by the caftles of Ightermuragh, Bally- totas, &c. of which road there are ftill feveral traces. Here is an alms-houfe, and a charter- fchool, with a fpinning-fchool for the encouragement of the linen manufaSlure. It is a neat fmall town, well watered, with the ruins of an ancient caftle, and in it an elegant houfe of the earls of Orrery. To the fouth of the houfe are the gardens, and plantations, and an artificial river, lately made, which furroundsit and the town, and is one of the greateft undertakings of this kind in the kingdom. It is regularly banked, and its fides planted ; at the eaft end of the town it is broken into feveral caf- cades, is a great ornament to this part of the coun- try, and after meandering a ccnfider able way, empties itfelf ^4 A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. itfelf into another river, that difcharges itfelf into Youghall bay. About a mile louth eait of Caftle mar- tyr, a river called the Dow-r, breaks out of a limeftone rock, after taking a fubterraneous courfe of about a mile, having its rife near Mogeely. Not far from Caftlemartyr, is the ruined caftle of Ballyrenane, fitu- ated near the ealt end of the ftrand of Ballycotton ; this ftrand is four miles long, both fmooth and level ; the point of Ring, forms the eaft fide of this bay, and Ballycotton point and ifland, the weft extremity of it. The ftiore tov^ards the weft, rounds in a large femi- circle, like the hollow of a fine amphitheatre. The ifland is an high fmall fpot, which in the proper feafon, I was informed, is almoft covered with nefts of various fea-fowls and puffins eggs. From this ifland may b? feen Kingfale-head, and the mouth of Cork harbour. Two miles weft of this ftrand, is thecaftleof Bally- maloe, now a good feat; but was ruinated in 1641, after which it was repaired, and fome new buildii^gs added. In this caftle hall are two pair of the horns of Moofe deer, on€ of which meafured from tip to tip ten feet three inches ^; the breadth of the palm thirty- two inches.; from the vertex or the head to the nofe twenty inches. Adjoining to this caftle are fome good gar- dens and plantations. About a mile further to the weft is Cloyne, fituated about ten miles weft of Youghall, and one mile from the fea coaft. It is the fee of a bifhop, but a fmall mean place of little trade. The cathedral is built in the form of a crofs, and is a decent gothic building; the choir, in which is a good organ, is neatly finiflied. It is feventy feet long, and the nave about one hundred and twenty. On each fide are lateral ailes, befides the crofs ailes, divided by gotliic arches, five on each fide. At the entrance of the choir is a hand fome portal of wood. The ftalls, bifliop's throne, the pulpit, and the pews, are well executed, as is the altar-piece. The bifbop's palace is large and conyenient, and was rebuilt the beginning of this cen- tury. A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. 95 tury. Near the church ftands one of thofe round towers, peculiar to this kingdom, ninety- two feet high and ten feet diameter. The door is about thirteen feet from the ground, which faces the weft entrance of the church, as the doors of thefe kind of buildings generally do. The foil in this neighbourhood is a loomy grey earth, mixed with fand, affording plenty of wheat, &c. In Cloyne is a fmall caille, faid to have been erected by the Fitzgeralds. About a mile weft of the town, is caftle Mary, a good feat, en- joying an agreeable profpedt of the harbour of Cork. This place was formerly called Cot's Rock, from the remains of a druid's altar near the houfe, which con- « fifts of a large ftone, fifteen feet long, and eight abroad, of a rough irregular figure, nearly oval. The higheft part from the ground is nine feet, fupported' by three other great ftones. From Cloyne it is twelve miles by land to Cork, through a track of land as beautiful as pen can defcribe , and near it are feveral gentlemen's feats, particularly two miles welt of Cloyne, is Roftiilian, built on the fite of a caftle, long fmce deftroyed. It is at prefent the feat of the earl of Inchequin, a moft noble edifice, pleafantly fituated at the fouth eaft fide of the harbour of Cork, where the tide flows to the garden wall. On a terras near the water, are fome fmall p-ieces of cannon mounted, which, upon firing, render feveral echos through the various hills that furround the harbour. Here I faw two pair of thofe fofiil horns, known by the nam.e of Moofe horns. From hence is a moft extenfive profpeft, which is terminated on the weft by the ifl^nds of Spike, -and Hawlbowling, and to the north by the Great Ifland, Near the houfe is a noble park. To the fouth weft, * near the harbour's mouth, is Cork-beg, a good feat, tuilt on a peninfula, to which is a narrow ifthmus from the main land ; near it are the ruins of an old caftle, and a decayed church. More to the fouth, oa the fea-lide, is an old feat, called Trabolgan. Oa the 96 A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. the weftern fide of Cork harbour, within the mouth, is an high round land, called Corribiny Point, on its fummit is one of the antient Tumuli, raifed to the memory of fome eminent warrior, in order to havQ the better view of it, as well as the harbour and city of Cork y we procured a boat, and proceeded by water to that city, whofe environs abound delightful fpots of land, feemingly fruitful and well cultivated, as well as many good houfes, ruined caftles, and decayed churches, beautifully fituated. This harbour is large enough to contain the whole navy of Great Britain ; the entrance is free, open and l)old ; but we were furprized to find there was not the leaft fortification to defend the harbour. There are indeed the remains of an old fort on the right hand, as you enter between the two headlands. The mouth of the channel is narrow, and the cannon may reach from fhore to ftiore. Where the ruins of the Old Fort ftand ; the cape is very high, and the channel is not an hundred yards from the fhore. Dog's Nofe-Point, as they call it, which is farther up the harbour, is another formidable fituation ; v/hen you are in, you come to anchor off a village called Cove, when you are land-locked, and fecured from all danger. Here are two iflands called Spike and Hawlebowling, that ferve as bulwarks to protect vef~ fels riding at anchor from being damaged by the tide of :ebb, or floods off the land. On the latter of thefe iflands are the remains of an old fortification, erected about the end of queen Elizabeth's reign, and which commanded all veffels of burthen pafling up Cork. Under this ifland we faw feveral elegant ^wls and pleafure boats, belonging to a fociety formed by the neighbouring nobility and gentry, who meet j^iere every Saturday, during the fummer half year, to dine and make merry, in an apartment which they have fitted up, for that purpofc, very commodioufly, among the ruins of thefe buildings. Many people of co^ife- quenc^ A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. g; quence and fafhion have feats bordering upon the har- bour ; and they exhibit a molt pleafing appearance* One (ideof Cork harbour is formed by tlie great ifland> formerly called Barrymore Ifland, from its belonging to that family. As a defence to this paffage, the only one by which the ifland can be entered at low water^ ftands Belvelly Caftle, near it is Bonajme's Grove, a pretty feat, and Ballydelea, another good feat. On the Eaft Ferry is Balgrove, with its fine terras, half a mile long, the fineft of the kind in the country. On the north is Afligrove. The firft earl of Orrery- tells us, in one of his letters, that this ifland is very- fertile, about fix miles in circumference, and a pafs of fuch confequence, that v/ere he an enemy, about to in- vade this^ kingdom, it is one of the firft places he would fecure,as being near equailydiilant fromCork, Youghall-^ and Kingfale. This ifland is fomething more than foin* miles long, and two broad ; the land is every where high and fteep ; aiid all round it is great depth of water. The principal place here is Cove, which is ojily in- habited by fifhermen, and a few cuftom-hcufe offiilers : it is built upon the fide of the hill, fo very fteep, that the houfes ftand ainioft one upon another ; they have a good efFe£t upon the eye, being white-walhed ; but this cleanlinefs, which is much affedled all through the country, is mere outfide, true hyprocrify^ for within they are very dirty. This ifland is about eight Englifh miles from Cork ; it contains fome few good houfes, and a verv decent parifn-church. To the left is the other fmall ifland, called Spike's ifland, a I noted place for firiuggling ; for fmall vefl^els, at high- water, fteal in unfeen by the officers at Cork. A ftran- ger, when he has pafTed this ftraight, would imagine he was entirely land-locked ^ and would be gazino for the city of Cork ; indeed I took the ruins of an old caftle, called Monks Town, to belong to that clty^ till informed otherwife. Somewhat further on the left are , the Giants flairs^ formed bv nature, but our boatmea. 98 A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. infifted they were made by art. A little higher in thi^ gut, is a horfe-ferry to the main land from Cove, From Cove we were rowed up to Paffage. Here all fhips of burden unlade, and their cargoes are carried up to Cork, either on fmall cars, drawn by one horfe, orinveflels of fmall fize, the channel higher up admitting only thofe of one hundred and fifty tons burthen, though the harbour ftretches above a mile from fliore to fliore. There are but few houfes at Pafiage. From Paffage to Cork the view is extremely plea- fant, and exhibits a variety of beautiful landfcapes, which the genius, fancy, and fpirit of Poufin, or Claude Loraine, could never exceed. The road is carried, for fome diftance, along the fide of the river I^ea, which is adorned v/ith pleafant iflands. One of thefe is called L'Ifle, or the Little Ifland, which de- nomination it bears to diftinguifh it from Barrymore, or the Great Ifland ; it contains about one thoufand fix hundred Irifli acres, and is three miles dittant from the city of Cork, nearly two miles long, and one broad; there are three or four good houfes built on it, with convenient offices : it is part of the eftate of the prefent lord L'Ifle. There runs throughout this whole ifland a ftratum of lime-ftone, which is the more re- markable, as there is nothing like it to be found in any of the neighbouring quarries on the northern coaft, which, however near, contain no other than a red grit- ty ftone. The main channel is very broad, but not propcrti- onably deep. The lands, on the oppofite fiiore, rife into gentle hills, vv-hich nowhere afpire too high ; and are ornamented with feveral neat country- feats, pleafant gardens, and thriving plantations, belonging to the merchants of Cork. Cork is a city large and extenfive, beyond my ex- pedtation. I had been taught to think worfe of it, in all refpedts, than it deferves; it was defcribed as the magazine of naftinefs^ and as it is the great ftiam- bles A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND^ (59 l)les'bf the kingdom, I was predifpofed to credit thefc reports ; but it is really as clean, in general, as the metropolis. The flaughter-houfes are ail in the fub- urbs, and there, indeed, the gak is not untainted; but in the city, properly fo called, all is tolerably- clean, and confequently fweet.. If fufficient care |l were taken, even the fuburbs might be purged of every thing ofFenfive, either to the fight or fmell; for they Hand upon the declivity of hills, and dov/n each ilreet there is a copious flow of water, perpetually v/afeing down the filth, from the door of each flaughter-houfe into the river Lea, and entirely furrounds the city, which is about three miles long, and not quite two in breadth. It is finely watered by two branches of the riv«r, that divides about a mile above the city. This river takes its rife from Lough-Loo, near a village called Inchy-geelah, in the barony of Mufkerry. One of it*, divided branches runs on the north fide of the town • and the other on the fouth, under two neat new-built bridges. It is not navigable above the town but for fmall boats, neither is it in art to make it fo. By ca- nals cut for that purpofe, it runs through many parts of the city, but is not frelh till it runs off to low- water-mark. The water for the ufe of the kitchen ts fetched from above the tov/n; and what is drank bj the inhabitants is brought from My Ladies Well, a- place much reforted to before the reformation,and where^ even nov/, the Roman catholicks come lo pay their devotion. There is another well, that has, in former ages, been celebrated for the wonderful cures it per- formed; but, fince the diiToItition of abbeys, v/as choaked up, till lately cleanfed. They have many good fprings in the parts, adjacent to the city. The illand v/here the city fiands, is interfered v/ith feveral canals, either natural or artificial, v/hich^ being banked and quayed in, bring up fhips almofi: to every ftreet. The city, vyhofe fituation is partly on a rifin^- F 2 ground loo A TOUR THRou^ neatly furniflied. The inhabitants are hofpitable and generous : they are rich, and deal largely in provifions, many of our fleets, both of merchantmen and fhips of war, touching here to vi£lual, which they do at a cheap rate ; yet to us the place was dear enough, not lefs fo than London. There are two large ftone bridges, one to the north, and the other to the fouth^ over the grand branches of the Lea, befides feveral fmall ones, and fome draw-bridges thrown over the lefler branches or canals. The inhabitants are computed to be eighty thoufand, the m^ajority of whom are Roman catho- licks, and in a necellitous condition. I have not heard a bell in any of the churches too good for the dinner-hell of a country fquire. But here is fomething infinitely better. Here is thebufy buftle ^ of profperous trade, and all its concomitant blellings. AH the wealth of Munfter and Connaught paffes through two or three cities^ which may be faid to have eaten A TOUR THROUGH IREtANl). i6h eaten up the furrounding country^ where the wretched peafant never takes the flefh of the cattle vvhich he feeds, hut fiibfills upon potatoes, generally without butter, and fometimes even without milk. Smith's Miftory of Cork, quoting Stanihurll,. reports that 20 years ago Cork was but the third city in Munftcr > now it is the fecond in the kingdomj and therefore call- ed the Brirtol of Ireland. Except in the article of linen, its exports are mora confiderable than thofe of Dublin. The balance of trade, I fhouJd conceive, to be againft Dublin,. the trade of which chiefly confifts in the importation of luxu- ries J whereas Cork deals almoft entirely in exporting the neceffaries of life, as beefy, pork^ butter^ hides,, tal- low, &c. There are two gates, the north and fauth ; though prifons for'debtors and malefactors, they are beautiful buildings, the river Lea paffing with. its divided ftream on the outfide of each. The high itreet, terminated by thefe two gates, I believe is near an Englifh mile in length. There was a third gate, within thefe few 37ears, to the eaft, with a draw-bridge and port-cuUis, but removed, to give way to the new buildings on the Marfh. They have two markets weekly, Wednefdays and Saturdays,, and then the high-ftreets and lanes ad- jacent are fo crowded it is hard to pafs. I own I had not curiofity enough to count them, but I am credibly informed, that in the high-ftreet alone, . there are up- wards of fifty lanes, that branch out on each fide. The floods fometimes do great damage to the m.er- chants and traders here ; and the inhabitants have been fometimes obliged^ to pafs from houfe to hcufe in boats, in the very middle of the High-ftreet, It is true, thefe inundations come but feldom ; but the houfes upon the quays prepare for it every winter, by providing materials to ftop up the doors of the ware-houfes, &c. Near the north gate is an old tower, (the remains, as l am info^-med, of a larger building) called Skiddy's- F 3 Caftle, 102 A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. cail-le, which is now converted into a magazine far powder, where is kept a ccnftant guard. The Cufcom-houfe is a handfome brick-building, with angles, v/indow-cafes, and door-frames of ftone : it was ereibed at the expence of Geo. I. and is fur- rounded by a good quay, with cranes, and all proper conveniencies for landing goods, clofe to the north channel of the river, which is indifferently v/ide here, with a new cut to load veffels almoft round it, where they can bring their fides to the v/harf, and lade and un- lade at pleafure. The market-houfe is a very handfome new pile, built in the Italian tafte, with a fine open piazza^ but it is placed in a ncok of the city, in a bye-lane, which much obfcures the beauty of the building. Leading to the north end of it, is another artificial canal, that lands within ten paces of the market- houfe. The Exchange (that makes a break in the High- flreet, and. In fome fort, I judge to be a fault, becaufe in that part it narrows the paffage in the very middle of it) is fmall for fuch an opulent trading city, but a Very neat building, ereftcd 1708 ; it is fupported by fubilantial pillars, and opens to the north and weft fides. The county Court-houfe, where the judges fit to hear caufes at the ailizes, is a very handfome building, clean, large, and well ornamented ; it ftands near the Tholfel, but is more obfcured than the market-place j for this is throv/n back from a narrow ftreet, and when the front door of the paffage is clofed, the building is almoft hid from the eye. It is fuppofed to be built on part of the antient king's refidence, and is ftill called the King^s Old Caftle. The Flefli-miarket between that and the Tholfel, Is no very agreeable neighbour. '^ Fronting the Tholfel or Exchange, is the Fifli-mar- ket, in another lane; but this fituation is very con- . venient, a double-cut ftream running on each fide^ ^'^ which A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. ig,;? which is a means of rendering it fweet and clean* About a hundred and fifty paces to the weft of thi^ market^ on Hammond's-'Marih, is a very handfonie large bowling-green, planted on its margins, with, trees kept regularly cut, \yhofe fhade make it a plea- fant walk, particularly in a morning. Before the reformation, there were no kfs thai> fif- teen convents of religious belonging to this city, A place called Frlars-walk, v/as part of the garden of that called the Red- Abbey, belonging to the Ciftertians ^ another on the fouth, whofe tower, and fome part oi the church, arefiili remaining, is nietamorphofed into, a fugar-houfe. Thefe remains are yearly decaying ; but the mailer of the fugar-houfe, as time throws down the materials, piles them up in the Chancel^, and will not fuffer thcrn to be made ufe of upon any occafion. The Proteftant churches are feven ; yet there are but three worth notice. The cathedra), St. Finbar'?:, or St. Barry's, was built by St. Fin.bar, the firll bifliop of this diocefe, in the year of redempiicn 63c. His feilival was kept the ayth of Septem.ber. It ftand > on the fouth part of the branch of the Lea, and is v/ithout the gate, in a very picafant church-yard-, fliaded with rows of trees planted uniform* It was rebuilt ill t4ie reign of the late king, by a parliamentary tax upon coals imported into Cork. It is a fpacious ftruihure of the Doric order ; but the tower near it is a mean fpirlcal f^ruclure, lov/ and poorly built. St. Alary Shandon, beyond the north bridge, (lands upon a rifing ground, is a handfome building, v/ith a high fquare cower, erefted from the foundation a. fev/ years ago. There is alf3 another new church, within a hundred paces of the fouth gate, much the handfomeft in the c^ty. As we cam_e up the harbour, it appeared to be feated in the centre of the buildings 5 but it is r^ot fo. F 4- ■ Th^ IC4 A TOUR''tHRou;G» IRELAND. I'he foundation is bad, and the tower has given way^ io that it leems dangerous-. The other four churches are very indifferent, and the old remains of the former monaileries, JL tlxinjk, too inconfiderable to be taken notice of. H r n -nt ' In the reign of Edw, IV. t^iere vi^ere eleven churches in Cork; now there are but feven. Yet it has ever fmce that time been efteemed a thriving city, and in the memory of man it is faid to have been doubled. But the (late of population cannot be afcertained from the nun)ber of churches ; for if our anceftors had not more religion than we have, they were certainly more addicted to building religious houfes. To fee the reafon, why the number of churches lias decreafed with increafing population, we fhould recclleft, that in the time of Edward the iVth, they had but one religion, th^t now they have many ; and that the catholics outnumber all otherdenominations, feven to one at leaft. As the Romanifts adhere religioufly to all their old inffitutions, in the number and divilion of parifties, iivA as they have now but feven m?cfs-houfes in fo large and populous a city, w^e may fairly fuppofe that there were no moxe pariihes in Edward's time ; though there might have been eleven churches, reckoning in that number the chapels belong jng to the four mona-* Iceries, which were then in Cork, viz. St. Domi- nick's, St. Francis's, the Red Abbey, and the Cill Abbey. It muft too be obferved, that though the m.onafteries are deftroyed, the monks remain to this day, and have regular fervice in their diflincSl houfes, as in theparifli mafs-houfes } in all of which they have a fucceffion of ferv'ices, on Sundays and holidays, from early in the morning, till late at night, for the accommodation of their numerous votaries. JBefides thefe eleven mafs-houfes^ there are four dif- fenting meeting-houfes^ belonging to Prcfbyterians, Ana- A TO U K TfTkouGH IRE LAN 105 Anabaptifts, Quakers, and French Proteftants. The prevalence of the popifli intereft in Cork, may be ar- gued from the following trivial circumftance : bidding a fellow v/hom I had picked up for my Ciceroni, to conduct me from the cathedral to th^ bifhop's houfe, he afked me which bifhop? The fame conclufion I drew at Kil- kenny, from another trifle ; I there heard the titular ■ hifhop greeted in the ftyle of his dignity. ; ? 'xhii> On Sunday morning early, I ftepped into one of" their mafs^-houfes, and a fpacious one it was. The prieil had juft finifhed the celebration of = mafs. On the altar liood fix candles. A fervi tor came in, after the prieft had withdrawn, and, kneeling before the - altar, he entered the rails, like thofeof our chancels , and, after kneeling again, he fnufFed out two of the candles; then he kneeled again, and fnuficd out i\va> more ; he kneeled a i^:)urth time^ and cxtinguifhcd the ' fifth ; the fixth he left burning. There were feverai elegant carriages ftanding before the door vv^hen I entered, and a prodigious crowd oi people in the ftreet as motly.an aflemblage of human creatures as I hjad ever feen. There v/as a mul tit tide of beggars imploring alms in the Irifh language, {bmo-t in a high, and fome in a low key. Some of = them meafured out tones as if finglne, - but in accents the- moH: unmufical that ever wounded the human can i . Not content v/ith- what I.faw at mafs, I afterwards-^i went to the new church, near the South-gate^ ther; fteeple of which exa£lly anfvv^ered Shakefpeare'^s de^^. '5 fcription in floping to its foundatroir:^^: v/hiciv argues the fenny bottom whereon it frands. I^waSyi-. however,, delighted with the contraft 1 fount! 'here. The fervice vv^as, throughout, performed Vv^ith the ut--- moft decency and propriety; tliey had a g;ood organ ^: and the finging was remarkable good.^ The embel--^ lifhments of the church Vv^ere neither rich nor fiudied,; but- they were neat and plain; .and the audience had^., F. 5 ^ Uuij.^" ic6 A TOUR jTHRouGH IRELAND. trujy as much the air of opulence and elegance, as moll of the congregations in the city of London. After fervice they generally betake themfelves to a. public walk, called the Mall ; which is no more than a very ill-paved quay upon one of their canals, with a row of trees on one fide, and houfes on the other. It is a pleafure, however, to fee that they are filling up this canal, and feveral others, where the water, having no current, muft have become noxious to the air in hot weather. On a bridge, thrown over this canal, is an equeftrian ftatue of his late Majefty, exe- cuted in bronze by an artift of Dublin, in 1761. This with a pedeftrian of lord Chatham, of white marble, by Wilton, which coft the corporation 450 1. and one in plaifter of Paris, lately painted white, and properly repaired, of king William III. in the Mayor- alty-houfe, are the only ftatues in this large city. If this fireet was well paved, and the Mall flagged, it would be as ornamental to the tov/n, as agreeable to the ladies. There is another public walk, called the Redhoufe-w^^lk, weft of the city, cut through very low grounds, for a mile in length, planted on each fide, where the lower fort walk ; and: on leaving the Mall, 1 found it crowde(} with people, in general, very decent- ly drefled. . They have a neat theatre, built by Barry, whereia the Dublin company exhibits during fummer. In a large room, v/ith vv'hite walls, badly lighted, and not encumbered v/ith ornament, here is an affembly, -ence a fortnight, at which you vAll find fome very han^tfome females, drefled in the pink of the mode. This city is ornam.ented with feveral charity-fchools, alms-houfes, and a neat infirmary for the conveniency of the. poor, all well attended, properly regulated, and amply endowed. There are no hackney-coaches here ; but there are plenty of chairs, or fedans» Their fare is but four- pence A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. pence for carrying you from one end of the city to the other. Indeed, if they carry you through the gates, they will demand fix-pence ; but this is an a£l of their own making. Thefe vehicles are extremely convenient for the followers of Bacchus, who has a great number of votaries in this city. This vice in a great m.cafure, owing to their riches and commerce, ' which brings a great refort of failors, who it is well known, are one and all devoted to that deity. One of the cofFee-houfes is condu6led fomewhat like thofe in London. The taverns are pretty good, and very cheap ; port-w^ine is better here than any where elfe I have been, and porter is more common than in any part of England, out of London. This article alone cofts Ireland a prodigious fum, I have heard above 40,oooL yearly. By means of the - draw-back, this liquor is fold as cheap abroad as at home. Ought it not to be the policy of the legiflature of this kingdom., to lighten, or even take off the duty on beer, in order to encourage their own breweries? Among other things,.. I was here fliewn a fet of knives and forks, whofc handles were made of a boney fubftance, or ex- crefcence, that grew out of the heels of the wonderfal ofiined body of the m^an I faw in Trinity College, Dublin ; he Vv^as a native of this place. Thefe bones grew in, the form of a cock's-fpur, but much larger, as you may eafily imagine, fmce the handles are of a - common fize. They v/ere not fawcd off, but fell yearly, like the horns of a ftag, without any force, or pain to the lirnbs that bore them. They v/ere well polifhed, and of a very hard fubftance, equal to ivory^ though not fo v/hite. It is argued, that the fituation of Cork cannot be healthful, as it is built upon a marih, interfered v/ith canals, and furrounded by a large river. Yet the bills of mortality, and even the antecedent reafort of the thing, prove the contrary ; for the waters in thefe canals are never ilagnant, but alv/ays rapid in their- F & cur-r. ia8 A TOtJR- ^HRotN^w IRELANI). current, which communicates motion to the air, and briifhesoff all noxious vapours that might be fuppofed to arife. The ifland was formerly walled in, to defend it againftthe incurfionsof the neighbouring Septs, with whom it was in a perpetual warfare; it having been originally built by the Danes, (long before the EngliHi had any footing in the kingdom) whom the^ native Irifh, to this very day, hold in deteftation.. 1 he walls vvere repaired by king John. The high lands, which, on both fides the river, command the town, forbid it to be a place of any defence againft cannon. The barracks, on the fouth jide of the town, are formed from the old citadel, whofe ruins feem to tell us it was formerly a formi- dable place; it is built on an eminence, to look into the town, and command its obedience. The gate, and feveral parts of the wall, more efpecialiy to the v/efl:, are of the old fortification. It fufiained a (hort fiege againft the forces of Oli- ver Cromwell, whoftormed the fouth gate, and coiii- pelled the inhabitants to furrender; for the terror of his arms and fear of his cruelty flew before him, and damped the fpirits of the braveft. He ordered the bells to be taken out of all the churches of the city, ajid fent to the foundery, where they were converted into battering cannon, and the churches have been without them ever fmce. Even one of his own party admonifiied him upon this occafion, telling him, the inhabitants w^ould look upon fuch an order as a rela- tive to facrilege : Oliver calmly replied, " Since gun- pov/dcr was invented by a prieft, he thought the beft ufe for the bells would be, to promote them into can- nons;" meaning it as a pun upon the canons of the church. However, in 1603, the inhabitants refufed 10 acknowledge the right of king James the Firft to the crovvm of England, till he was confirmed by the pope : they (hut their gates againft the prefident of A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. tog Munfter, poflefTed themfelves of the king's ftores, and' afted in open rebellion. The infurgents fwore they would not lay down their arms, unlefs publicly per- mitted to go tomaft. They were guilty of many outrages againft the Proteftants, and committed great' irregularities; which were, hov/ever 5, put an end to, by the arrival of lord Mountjoy, lord- lieutenant of ; the kingdom; to whom, being unable to reftft his- ' power, they furrendered. He punifeed fo me of the rlngkaders with death ; but behaved, upon the whole,^ with great lenity and moderation : and having rebuilt' Elizabeth Fort, which was a fquare fortification, with four regular baftions on the fouth fide of the town, by way of citadel, he fet out for Limerick, to- quell fome difturbances of the fame nature there, in. which he had equal fuccefs». In 1690, it held out five days againft William III/j?- army, commanded by the prince of Wirtemburg and the earl of Marlborough, to v/^hom the garrifon fur- . rendered prifoners of war. Here the young duke of Grafton, natural fon of Charles II. vv-^s killed in his- twentieth year. But if Cork is ill placed for refifting the calamities of war, it- is happily fituated for obtaining the blef* fings of peace, by univerfal commerce. It is evident- ly moft convenient for the weftern world ; and, what to fome may appear paradoxical, it lies more advan- tagcoufly for the Eaft- Indies than any of the Englifli - ports. From this fortunate fituation, jCork has grown into fuch importance, as to be one of the- third-rate cities in the Britifti empire. If fo confiderable then without the aid of manu- fa<£tures, what would it be with their acceffion ? It is not, it cannot be any peculiar indolence of nature;^ it muft be from certain ill-judged reftri(£lions of po- licy, that thefe people are not induftrious. • , The outlets of Cork are cheerful and pleafant;v ' the country around the city^ and on both fides th^ river. iio A TOUR T^iiiouGH IRELAND. river, is hilly, like that round Bath. The rides to , Paffage and Glanmire are charming, the acclivities being decorated with a variety of handfome feats. The fuburb, to the north^ is near a meafured mile long, and that to the foutii much the fame length. To the weft of this fuburb is ^ long row of cabins, called the Devil's-Drop. In this part the poorer fort of the inhabitants dwell ; their doors are thronged with children, which, notwithftanding the hard la- bour of their parents, proves them extremely proli- fick, though their food is of the meaneft fort. Cork was twice burnt down by accident in the reign of James L but arofe from the ruins each time, with redoubled fplendor. After having carefully perufed every thing we could find relative to this city, we let off to vifit its environs. On each fide of the river, are feveral pretty retreats, almoft contiguous to each other, too nume- rous to be particularly mentioned. About two miles fouth of Cork, on the road to Paffage, is a neat village called Douglas, where is a noble manufadture for making fail-cloth ; and not far from it Maryboroughr a handfome houfe with good plantations. Not far diftaiit is Donnybrook, a pleafant feat, on a rifin.g ground^ in view of the city. Two. miles wePcward is Rochford's Town, another feat, on a hill; and Chetwynd another pleafant place, with good gardens, canals, &c. About two miles fouth fouth-weft from Cork, is a celebrated holy well, to which many cures ar^ attributed. Two miles weft of Cork is Bally- nafpig, or Bifhop's Tov/n, where is a neat houfe and chapel. Near the city are large weirs croiTing the river Lea, for taking falmon. We thence fet forward for Kingfale, &c. At about five miles diftance from Cork is Five-miles-bridge on the river Conbury, being the midway between Cork and Kingfale, Here is ai chalybeat fpring, impregnated with fulphur, arid it has a ftrong taite of iron at the fountain-head. A A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. in few years fince a fhaft of coals was funk here, but with little fuccefs; however, the block fiate that was dug up, on examination was found to be full of ful- phureous marcafite, and on being burnt produced both fulphur and iron. Here we turned to the eaft, and vifited Carigaline-caftle, which is fituated on the upper end of Crofs-haven, on the north fide of the river Oonbury, built on a limeftone rock. In Eli- zabeth's time it was reckoned impregnable, but now ■entirely demoliflied. The parifh church is in good repair, and near it is an handfome houfe. Near it was Shannon-park or Balllnrea, now entirely gone to ruin. From Shannon-park a rivulet empties itfelf into a creek, a little to the fouth of Monks Town. A mile fouth-weft of Carigaline, is Kilov/en, a new houfe and good feat; and fomewhat more weft foi*- merly ftood a caftle called Meades-tov/n. A mile weft of Crofs-haven is Huddersfield, a good feat on a rifmg ground, and near the houfe a gazado, v/hich commands a profpecSi: of the harbour of Cork, the ocean, and a vaft traft of fea coaft. The caftle of Ballea is a large ruin, a mile weft of Carigaline, and oppofite to Coolemore are the ruins of another caftle. About three miles fouth ©f Carigaline is Rinabellyj where is a good houfe. More to the fouth-weft^ is Barry's Caftle, built on a rock hanging over the coaft. At Britfield's Town near it, the fea eagle, or ofpery, breeds in the cliffs ; and on the eaft fide of Oyfter-ha- ven is Mount Long, an handfome caftle; and not far from it is Bellgooly, another caftle. Tv/o miles fouth of Carigaline ftands Tra£lon-abbey, founded in 1224 ; the original building is nov/ quite deftroyed, and near it is ereiled a modern good feat. About five miles from Cork, on the fouth fide of the river Oonbury, is a pretty feat called Riggfdale, and on the other fide is Ballynahoflack, a fmall village; and near Kingfale is Ballintobber, from v/hence we proceeded to Kingfeiej^ by the natives called Kintaileach, a large town^ m A T0UR THROUGH! IRELAfn). town, fouth«weft of Cork. The country on both'fides^ is tolerable^ but not to be compared with that which furrounds Cork; neither is the eye fo agreeably de- lighted with fuch numbers of pleafant profpefe or beautiful feats. However, the glebe is well cultivated; even to the fummit of the mountains; and the v-ales look very pleafant, but more efpecially from the right, the road afcending and defcending the greateft part of the way. ThefitLiation of Kingfale is much like the road that leads to it, irregular, almoft a half moon round. the ^ harbour, or bafon, as they call it,, one of the fineft L ever faw, and the fault; for I am informed, at low wa- ter it is deep enough to contain five hundred fail of the largeft fhips, land-locked, as the failors term it. The buildings of this town are tolerable enough, I mean-^ thofe that are kept up, for there are many mouldering away. In the centre of the tov/n, which is molHy on < a level, is a handfome market-houfe,. near which ftands a ftrong-built prifon. Here are. the ruins of .feveral m.o- - nafteri^s, and r^-^ligious houfes, fcattered up and down, that, I believe, \5ef0re the Refoi maticn, muft have taken-; up at leaft a third part of the towiu That part to- wards tte land was formerly covered by a ftrong wall, if we may guefs at its ftrength by the thicknefs of its remaining gates. War, which murders Cork, is the life of Kingfale; and I am credibly informed^ , that leafes are made for^ double the rent in the time of war with France or Spain. The reafon is, that moft of our inward or. outv/ard bound fhips have convoys to, and from, this - place, where they take in provifions, &c. but at this time there v/ere few fhips in the harbour, fo that they find little amendment in their trade yet, and. I muft ov/n I never faw fo large a town as this with fo fmall a face of bu fine (s. . ' '^u; I have already informed you there is not any regu- - Icj-ity in their ftreetsy and one cf thcm^ that leads, to. A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. 113 the bowling-green, on that part that extends to the , right of the bafon, is troublefome enough to afcend ; I tut on the top you are agreeably furprized to find a verjr handfome level, where there is a fine bov/ling-green, whofe border, to the left, is a kitchen-garden, mount- ed above the tops of the chimnies of the flreet belovv% From hence you have a profpedl: of the town and har- bour, and the little ifland of Scilly, about three acres, as near as I could guefs, where none but fifhermen dwell : their houfes are of a poor ftru£lure, without the leaft fence, yard, garden, or green fpot, as I could difcover. The ancient inhabitants, as we were inform- ed, came from the ifland of Scilly, near the land's end of Cornwall, where multiplying ratlier too faft, the race forfook their native country, and arrived here, where they have many ages followed the fame employ- ment of fiftiing. Their boats are indifferently large, and bear the fea very well, for I had the curiofity to go in one of them beyond the mouth of the harbour; but finding the wind high, and the billows boiilerous, I chofe rather to return than tempt the winds and waves, for the fake of a pleafure, that could not give the leafi: fatisfa£lion, through the danger. When 1 landed, I had the curiofity to look into one of their houfes, and found their furniture worfe than I could conceive, A gentleman that went with us in the vellel, told me, the fituation of Kingfale put him in mind of Lifbon in Portugal, as you enter the river Tagus ; and, I own, at the diftance of a mile from it, you would Im.agine it was thrice larger than you find it. The Cuftom- houfe officers are very ftri£l here; for they came on board in order to fearch us, though we had not left the harbour three hours ; but when they faw us in the vef- iel, they retired, and civilly begged pardon. I was in- formed by my companion, thefe fifhing-veflels are very dexterous in the fmuggling trade ; therefore the vigi- lance of the officers of the ciiftoms is but neceflary. We 114 A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. We viewed the citadel, which- is built upon * fohd rock, fronting the fea. I have never feen a foauicat.on, I mean towards the entrance of the har- bour. For Its ftrength towards the land, there is lit- tic to lay ; the ditch is neither wide nor deep, and the^ ISt-rr ^'S'' y^"'' "^^y into'the ford!; hcat.on ; but the part towards the fea looks formidabie to an enemy There are three tier of canno , th^' firft next the . elegance to the profpeft. A few miles N. from Cork is the village of Glanmire, prettily planted, where is a curious bolting-mill^ the firft of the kind erefted in the kingdom. At Ballyrochine is a flitting-mill, for making rod-iron, and a paper-mill, all worked by the river Glanmire. You come down upon it over a pretty fteep hill into a pleafant bottom, and crofs a new bridge of five arches over a ftream of the fame nam.e, that runs w^ith its windings into the Lea below Cork. Near its jundlion with the Lea, is Dunkettle, now a fine feat, affording a fine profpedl of a great part of Cork Harbour, and the river Lea, up to the city J which from Black Rock to the town, (except a narrow channel formed by the river) is quite dry at low water, v/ith oozy banks on each fide, fo that upon the ebb, veffels and boats are faft in the mud. The gardens of Dunkettle fiope to the water, and it has lately a park inclofed. From hence we made an ex- curfion to a fmall village called Carigtohill, eight miles eaft of Cork, feated on an arm of the fea, which at -high water flows under a bridge of four arches, and covers a large tradl of land, making excellent marfrt for feeding cattle. Near this place to the north eaft, is a large cavity running under a rock for a confider- able wa3^ in the earth. Not far from hence is Killy- cloin and Angrove, two extream pleafant feats. A little way to the fouth, is the ruin of the caftle of Barrys-Court, and it is the pall'age into the Great Ifland in the harbour of Cork. Near it is the pretty feat of Rofsmore. From thence I made an excurfion to Middletown, fo called from its fituation, being the midway between Cork and Youghall, ten miles from each, a borough and market-town, well built, and pleafantly fituated, a river running at each end of it, and the tide flov/ing up to it, being the north eaft angle of Cork harbour. It confifts of one long ftreet, ranging from the north to the fouth bridges, and near it Y/as Chore-abbey, now in ruins. It has a good market- A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. iit market-houfe and frec-fchool, and the church neat. Near the water-fide is an ancient building, fuppofed to have been ufed as a leper-houfe ; and near it ths village of Ballinachora, where is an high'-fepulchral mount, being one of the ancient Tumuli. There are two good parks, one on each fide Middletown, in that near Cork is a fine feat called Ballyanon, very agreeabijr fituated. In Middletown-park is a fmall river, that takes a fubterraneous courfe, near which is a large romantic cave ; and not far from it is Rockfborough, a pleafant feat, adjacent to which is a reputed holy well. The road winds very much to avoid the hilis that furround it, which is made eafy now, but before the turnpikes were ere61:ed, it was a very difficult af- cent and defcent ; for fome part of the old road ftill remains, v/hich plainly ftiews us the former height and difficult afcent. When you have crofTed Glanmire-bridge, you may fee the ftreani to your left, courfe along by a beautiful wood, v/ith a foot-path on its margin, that gives the eye no fmall fatisfadion. Through a good road yoi| come two miles further, where you crofs another winding brook, and fee a pleafant feat, upon a rifing ground on the right, occupied by a gentleman, who courteoufly, as v/e were viewing it, defired us to alight^ and walk into his houfe. The dwelling is clean and neat, but the garden is very pleafant, large and corn- modious. After an eafy tv/o hours ride, we croffed a bridge not long built : over the Bride, a very goo3 river, with plenty of fife. We paffed through a wood this very day that has taken a new title -within thefe few years, from anafi^air that happened there, which v»''as formerly knov/n by the name of Glanmire, Half a mile from this Bri'de's- bridge, on the left, is Lifnegar, a fine feat, with plea- fant gardens, a fine canal, and other improvements. It is the firft houfe in Rathcorniuck, twelve miles from Cork^ with a pleafant green fronting it* There is a 122 A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. pretty neat modern-built church to the right of the town. Thetownisbutfmall, with a neatmarket-houfe, built a few years fnice, and fome very good modern buildings. It is a borough, and fends two mem.bers to parHament. Here v/e turned to the right, and again entered the county of Waterford, in order to vifit Lif- more, ten miles diftant, through a fmall town called Caftie Lyons, which is well built, enjoys a market, being pleafantly fituated, and well watered, in a rich fruitful foil, a little v/ay from the river Bride, and has fonie trade. Here are the remains of an abbey, parti- cularly the choir and nave, as v/ell as the Iteeple of the church. This town is twelve miles diftant from Cork j lord Barrymore has here a ftately houfe, built on the foundation of an old caftie of the O^Lehans. It is a large fquare building, with a court in the center. This building is fupplied by an aqueduft, contrived by a common Irifhmiller, at an inconfiderable ^^xpence^ after a celebrated undertaker from England had failed in the attempt, and had expended a confide- rable fum. Flere are fine gardens, and a good park, through which runs the river Bride ; great part of the old buildings are deftroyed, Vv'hen a chimney piece was difcovered with this infcription, which is ftill preferved, ■Cullane O Lehane hoc fecit MCIII. which is a proof that ftone buildings were much earlier in Ireland than our modern antiquarians allow them to have been. To the caft of Caftie Lyons, is the caftie of Roberts's Town, a high fquare tOAver \ and foon after v/e faw the ruins of the caftie of Kilrnacow, and not far from Connough-caftie. Near it is a ftone bridge over the river. 'I his caftie is a high fquare tov/er, built on a fteep rock, and commands an extenfive profpecl over the adjacent country. Juft before v/e arrived at this caftie, we palled through a fmall place named Knock- mourne, the poor remains of a corporation, ruined in Defmond's rebellion^ and not far before it Aghern, where v/as formerly another caftie^ now a good houfe. A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. 123 pleafantlv feated on the Bride river. Another village wc faw was Curryglals, pleafantly planted and well watered, where is a good ieat now gone to decay. At this place is a fine cedar tree, and the largeft holly- tree fuppofed in the kingdom. Two miles from Knock- mourne, ne^r the decayed church, are the ruins of a large building, and near it a chalybeat fpring. From thence we proceeded to Lifmore. Lifmore is a bifhoprick, now united with Water- ford, formerly with Ardmore ; it lies on the eaft fide of the bay of Youghall, from whence it is difiiant about eight miles, but has not the leaft remains to fhew of its twenty churches, or that it ever was a place of any note, except its caftle and cathedral. Its fituation is beautiful, and has lately had a fine bridge built over the ruins. An old author defcribes it, as a famous ^' holy city, haif of which is an afylum, into Vvhicli no woman dares enter : it is full of monafteries and ^' holy cells, and a great number of religious men not only dwell here, but come from all parts, more efpecially from England and Scotland, to ftudy wif- dom and the v/ays of holinefs,'' but alas ! there ar,e no remains of this greatnefs vifible. The cathedral is ftill pretty well kept in repair, and is large, with a new half-fpire. It was originally founded by a very holy man, St. Carthage, who fulFered greatly under the perfecution of an Irifh monarch : The faint, to avoid his fury, retired to. this place, v/ith fome of his re- ligious, in the year 636 : he tied his difciples to a moft ftridt rule of life ; they were never allowed the vife of fiefli, fiih or fov/1, only the vegetables that the ground produced at the expence of their ov/n labour. Father Daniel, in his Hiftoire Monaftique, mentions one of the fame foundation in France. There are the remains of a large old caftle,^fin.ely fituated near the river. Below^the tov/n is a rich fifliery for falmion, which is the greateft branch of trade here. Sir V/alter Raleigh, that noted fcholar and foldler, was granted the manor of Lifmore, with its appendages, in the G 2 reign ^124 A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. reign of queen Elizabeth, at the yearly rent of 13/. 6^. 8<^. fierling ^ but that eftate wds lopped off with his head, in the reign of king James 1. Not many years after the conqueft, Cambrenfis informs us, this was a very rich city, and held out fome time againft the Englifli, who took it at laft by ftorm, and gained rich plunder here, and in the country near it, enough to load fixteen fail of fhips ; but as I faid before, there are few remaining marks of any fuch grandeur. Lifmore was united with the fee of Waterford in the year 1363^ The public road to Cork, was formerly through this place ; and in that time, I am informed, it had a better face of bufmefs. About two miles diftant on the eaft, is a town called Copper-quin, that has little more to recommend it than a good bridge over the river Black-v/ater, a fine old caftle, that is kept in fome repair, with a hand- fome barrack, and a church, I believe as old as the vcaitle ; but the country every where is charming. Having fatisfied our curiofity, as far as this little town could afford us fubjecSts, we returned to vi fit Water- park, on the fouth fide of the Black-v/ater, formerly a fine feat, whofe pleiafant park is now demolifhed, but yet there remains good orchards and other improve- ments ; from thence v/e again returned to Caftie Lyons, where we turned fliort to the right, paffed a fmall ffream, and arrived at the little town of Fermoy, three miles only from Rathcormec. I own I had formed to myfelf an idea of this place, that went far beyond what I found it. The church is but a mean Gothix: building, and had been before the reformation an Auguftine mon- aftery. The town has nothing to recommend it more than a good bridge of thirteen arches, over the Black- water, which coft 7500I. and near it a mineral fpring. It is, however, moft agreeably fituated, and I was delighted at feeing a tolerable large nurfery of trees, a fight in this part of the country as novel as poffible ; for ex- cept at Rathcormec, near which is a pleafant refidence, the whole country is almoft treelefs. The forry in- ' clofures A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. 125 clofures being planted v/ith furze, or gofs, and the inclofed grounds very much over-run with them, adds darknefs to this gloomy region ^ yet the land is rich enough, and, with proper cultivation, would produce excellent crops. A little to thev/f ftof Fermoy, isCaftle-Hyde, agood old houfe, with large improvements, well planted, v/lth a large deer-park. ■ Near it ftands the parifli churchy From hence 1 made excurfions. To the eaft of Fermoy, on the fouth fide of the Black-water, is the caftle of Carlckabrick, and pn the opponte fide another caftle called Liclafli. A lit- tle further down the river Black-water, between the junftion of the rivers Puncheon and Aragiin, on a pleafant fpot, is the caftle of Ballyderoon. On the oppofite fide of the Black-v/ater, but more eafterly, is the caftle of Bally Mac Patrick, now called Carey's Ville, a pleafant feat fituated on a rifmg ground, with a terrace commanding an extenfive profpeft. Here is a pretty park, good orchards, gardens, and other ^ plantations. On the oppofite fide of the Black-wa- ter is Greenfield, a good houfe, v/ith orchards, ;&c. To the weft of this feat the river Araglin falls into the river Black-water, not far from which is Araglin- • houfe, pleafantiy fituated. Near this place confider- • able iron-works were carried on till the fcarcity of fewel put a ftop to it. From thence paffing on north- wards v/e faw Macloney, a good houfe with improve- ments, pleafantiy fituated on the eaftern bank of the river Araglin, and not above tv/o miles from Kil- worth; which is but three miles north from Fermoy. This is a thriving place, wnth a decent church, fitu- ated at the foot of a large ridge of mountains which take their name from the town. Over them is a good turnpike road carried on from Dublin to Cork. Be- low the town runs the river Funcheon, which about one mile fouth empties itfelf into the Black-water. On the eaft fide of the river is a deer-park, and in it G 3 abe^u^ 126 A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. a beautiful fummer-houfc, and near it an elegant feat. Near Kilworth is a good glebe, and vicarage houfe. On the river ftands the ftrong caiHe of Clogleagh, from w^hence is a fubterraneous pafiage to the river. . From hence we vifited Glanv/orth, formerly a cor- poration, but now only a fmali decayed village, where are the ruins of an abbey founded in 1227, of which the nave of the church and a low lieeplc yet remain. Near this abbey, on the verge of the river Puncheon, on which it is fituated, is a fine fpring, held in great efteem as an holv well. Here alfo are the magnificent ruins of a fumptuous caftle, which confifted of feve- ral buildings, and a large high tovvrer, all ftrongly erevSled on arched vaults, and built of very malTy ftones. The whole of this edifice is environed with a ftrong wall flanked with turrets. Near it is a flone bridge over the Puncheon river. Prom Glanworth it is about three miles to Kilv/orth, and near about the midway between thefe places is an antique fepulchral monument, called Labacally, or Hag's-bed. This monument, by its fize, feems to be deiigned for fome celebrated perfon of antiquity; but for whom, or when creeled, the leall traces are not' to be found, either in hiftory or from tradition. It confifls of fcve- ral broad fiag-ftones, fupported by others, which are pitched in the ground. One of thefe ftones is of an enormous fize, being not lefs than feventeen feet long and nine feet broad, and in the middle three feet thick, from whence it flopes away to the edges, like the roof of an houfe. But, as if this prodigious ftone was not a fufficient cover to the tomb, there are two others ; one eleven feet by feven feet, and the other feven feet fquare. There was a fourth huge flag, which lies at the v/eft end, and covered that part. On each fide are feveral broad flags, pitclied in the ground in tv/o ranges, on which the upper ftones reft, as a tomb- ftone on the fide walls. Some of thofe piliar-ftones are fix feet high and four broad. The whole of this A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. 127 vaft tomby it being hollow underneath, is forty feet on the outfide, and fourteen broad. The wh?r)le was inclofed within a circle of flag {tones, pitched in the ground at about fourteen feet from the center of the tomb. The bringing and erefting of thefe ftones hi- ther, muft have been a work of immenfe labour, as there are none of the kind nearer than the mountains five or fix miles diftant. It is placed eaft and v/ell:,, and conjeftured to have been ereoicd fiiiCe the ages ot chriftianity. We returned to Kibwcrth, and travelled oyer Kil- worth-mountain, a place, not above fcventy years ago^ a more dreary wafte, as it was defcribed to me, than' could be found in the deferts of Arabia ; but nov^^ you might perceive all round black cattle feeding, and every half mile, little plantations and farm houles, that made it far more pleafant than Eagfeot-lieat]\ 1:1 England, or many miore of the fame kind. At th-^ further end of this mountain we parted with the la't flone that gave us notice of the meafured miles wc had palled, v/hich, I ov/n, grieved m^e a little^ when we again entered the county of Tipperary. Tsot 1gii[; after leaving this mountain, we came to a fmall to\;ii called Ballyporcen, where is a handfome feai. lord King's, v/ith a fine wood, at leaf!: the beii i n have feen in the country hitherto. The next thing that excited our attention v/as-a monument ere6ted to the memory of an eminent law- yer nam.ed Callaghan, near a pretty church, about two hundred yards out of the comm.on road, - within ^half a mdle of the neat town of Clogheen, which^ tho' fmall, is well-built, and has a good market-place. Going out of the town we paffed over a little neat bridge, over a ftream called Avcn-tar, or Tar- water.. In our journey on, we pafled an old cafrle at fom^e dif-- tance, called The Caftle of the White Knight, a per- fon of great pov/er and dominion fome ages ago. W'e were told many rom.antic ftories about him, and amom^ G 4 the I2S A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. the reft, that every man his lady caft a gracious look \vipon he put to death. We met with nothing worth obfervation till we ,came to a place called Ardfennan, where the larsre ru- ins of an old caftle, built on arock, overlooks the river Suire. This caftle was built by king John, when he x-/as earl of Moreton and lord of Ireland, fon to king Henry II. in the year 1186. Over the river Suire is a bridge of fourteen arches 3 and on that fide next the caftle is a mill on the river. When we pafied the . bridge, we were ftiev/n a pleafant rifmg hill we had left behind, v/here Oliver placed his cannon to batter the caftle. We faw the breach, and at the fame time v/ere told the foliov/ing ftory : When this place was befcged by Oliver, a butcher was within the wails, who, while the fiege lafted, could never be prevailed upon to come out of the room where he had placed liimfelf ; but when the breach v/as made, and the fol- diers began to ftorm, iie tcok a handfpike, defended it almqft alone for fome time, and knocked down fe- veral foMiers that ftrove to enter; at laft", finding no feconds, he retired Vv^ithout the leaft hurt. When the caftle was furrendered, he was afked, why he \yould not com^e to the walls before the breach was made ? He replied, Damn them ! I did not miind what was done on the outfide, but I could not bear .their coming into the houfe,^' as he called it. There is a high afcent ail round this caftle, or ra- ther I fhould have faid on every ftde, for it is a direct iquare. The gate is ftiil ftanding, and moft part of tl'ie Vv^alls, but the infide ihews you a defert ; only fome part of the roof of one of the rooms remain, I mean the timber of it, and the back of the ftone- work. This v/as certainly of fome note before king John rebuilt it for we find that Cormac, a warlike king of Ireland, left at his death, (about the ninth century) an ounce of gold, and the fame of filver, his horfc, annsj and furniture, to this place. There is A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. 129 is a good inn, to appearance, Over-againft the caftle ; but its vicinity to Cionmell hurts it much. The ri- ver Suire parts the county of .Tipperary from that of Waterford, and we have left the county of Cork be- hind us feveral miles. This river is accounted the finl river of the province of Munfter ; the next is the Broad-water. The Suire takes its rife almoft in the extreme parts of the county of Tipperary, and after an irregular courfe of near eighty miles, falls into the bay of Waterford. Hitherto I have never feen a country^ better watered, and every river is well provi- ded with fifh ^ but they have not much variety ^ I can hear of no other but falmon, trout, pike, roach and eels. We now proceeded to Cionmell, the head town of the county of Tipperary, remarkable for having been the birth-place of the Reverend Mr. Sterne, author of Trijiram Shandy, They call it five miles from Ard- fennan to this place, but I think it much further. The firft part of our way here was but indifferent, I mean for eminent feats, though the country was plea^ fant and rich ; yet when you corne about half way, and meet the river Suire again to the riglit, you caniiQt conceive a more beautiful profpe to the right, of twenty arches. The town ^oes not feem to have any great profpeft of trade, but from the neighbouring gentlemen's feats. Oliver found more refiftance from this tov/n, than any other of his conquefts in this kingdom. "When- Oliver had gained the victory, he took his ufual me- thod of demolifhing the caftles and other fortifications, but the fkeletons ftill remain. The chief church of the Gothic kind is ftill kept in repair; which before the reformation was part of a Benedictine monafiery. There are the remiains of two m.ore, but in ruins. The portcullifes of foitie of the gates are remaining, though ufelefs.. The barracks are in good order, and capable of containing a greater number of foldiers than, are ftationed there. From Clonmell v/e paffed through a fine country, for about fix miles, to the town of Feathard, v/here are annual races._ The race ground is round a hill, where we had an opportunity from that height to fee the v/hole courfe without the leaft interruption. This hill yields a noble profpefi: round, where the view of many gentlemen's feats and plantations delights the- eye. The town of Feathard has ftill the remains of its ^^aftle, walls and gates, as Cromwell lefc it* It is- A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. 131 ah ancient ruinous town^ where is an old Gothic church, and the remains of an AuguP:ine convent, founded in 1306; befides which there is a fpacious^, but declining ftrudture, formerly the feat of the noble family of Everards, which retains an air of grandeur in its antiquity. From Feathard it is but fix miles to Cafhel, which we avoided, kept more to the right hand, and proceeded to Killenaule, afmalltcwn, fitu-' ated in the midway between Callen and CaflieL No- thing can be more charming than the country around ; but it bears, upon the very face of it, an evident and fufficicnt caufe for the infurgency of the white-boys^^. if infurgency it may be called^ where every houfe- keeper difclaims all connexion with the wretches concerned. The fpot is remarkable for thofe coals generally called Kilkenny coals. We proceeded' from hence, with the bog of Monely on our left hand, to Longford Pafs, a fmall place on the verge of the fame bog, and on the border of this county and that of Kilkenny in the province of Munfler, through- v/hich we paffed about fix miles, when we^ entered^ Qj-ieen's County, and foon after arrived at Caftle Durrow, on the river Noire. From thence it is a- bout two miles more to the tov/n of Bally nakill^ which fends two members to parliament, Vv'here I found nothing worthy of notice but the ruins of a caftle deftroyed by Oliver Cromwell in 1642, whea^ It bravely refifted his forces. We proceeded froni^ hence through Balliroan, five miles diflant to Alary- borough, the county town, fo called in honour of queen Mary, where are barracks for a troop of horfe. Here we turned to the right hand, and at eleven miles diftant paficd the Barrow, and entered the county of Kildare and the little village of Men after even 5 to the right of v/hich about four miles is the town of Kil- dare. Here v/e crolTcd the bog of Allen,. one of the moir extenlive in the kingdom^ and proceeding to Whitchurch and Newcaftle, tw^o hn<^\\ places lioar 6 the. 132 A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. the grand canal which goes from Dublin to the river Shannon, which canal continued clofe on our left hand till we arrived at the fuburbs of Dublin. Having now compleatcd my fecond journey thro' the fouth counties of Ireland, and ruminated upon v/hat I have feen, I cannot conclude without giving a par- ticular account of the bogs, with which thefe parts abound, and of which the reader cannot receive a better idea from any v/riter, than what is given by Bujhes Hihernia Cnriofa^ in the following words : Though the bogs have generally been claffed among the natural difad vantages of this kingdom, I fcall, notwithftanding, take them into the number of its natural curiofities, atleait they will a.ppear fuch to Jin Englifh traveller, both as to their origin and pi-o- duce. But prepare yourfelf to travel as lightly as poflible, throw off every unnecefTary v/eight, for the iurface you have no\v to tread on is very infirm and ctangerousj and fliould you once break through, you have but little chance for flopping, in your defcent, "till you reach the ante-diliivian world, for that will probably be the firfi: firm footing that your feet will .find; fiich, however, feems to be the moft generally prevailing opinion here concerning thefe bogs^ — that the timber and trees of every kind, which are frequent- ly found at the bottom of them at very different depths, were originally throv^^a down by the univerfal deluge in the life of Noah. There may be truth in this opinion, but it is certain, at befl:, that It is altogether conjectural, though not altogether improbable. — I juft now recolledl: a particular circumftance in a fimi- iar view of this kind in England. V/hen the new harbour at Rye, in Suffex, was firft opened, at the bottom, they came upon a layer of timber of various kinds, at the depth of fifteen or near twenty feet under the ftrand; on turning over one of the bodies of thefe trees, there was found the flieleton of a man coiD-pleat^^aiid of a gigantic frze^ in a pofitioa as if A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND, 133 he had been attempting to climb the tree, and it had fallen on him. The conje6tures were various upon the phaenonienon; but it was the more prevailing opinion of the many gentlemen who were prefent, that he was one of thofe ill-fated inhabitants of the ante-diluvian world who was endeavouring to fave himfelf from the approaching deluge, by climbing the tree. — Whatever truth there may be in the con- je6l:ure with refpeft to the original of this fallen tim- ber, of which there are many inftances in both king- doms, the bogs above it, in Ireland, produce a fweet a|ld very wholefome kind of firing in great plenty. In this refpe£l nature feems to have been favourable to the inhabitants, in raifing a very ufeful kind of firing even upon the ruins of the original fuel, in fome of them to a very confiderable depth, from five to fifteen or twenty feet. By the natives it is called turf, which conftitutes the entire fubftance of thefe bogs, and from thence they are ufually called turf bogs. That of the bog of Allen, which extends al- moft acrofs the province of Leinfter, from eaft to weft, is univerfally efteemed the bed in the kingdom for burning. It is dug out v/ith inftruments called flanes, made on purpofe for that ufe, in little fpits, in fliape and fize not much unlike our common bricks; and, when thoroughly dried for burning, ap- pears to be a very mafs of roots, fo fine and mattfd together, that, in its natural and m.oiil fituation in the bog, it cuts clofe and fmooth like drained mud. The clofePc and moft combined in its natural ftate iii the bog is the beft and moft lafting firing when dried, as the turf of this kind has the leaft mixture of earth, and confequently" is of the moft lignous compofition. The account that is generally given by the natives for the production of this vegetative kind of foil is erroneous. I believe, viz. that it is a mafs of ftufF that has grown from the fallen wood that originally grey/ here, throw^n down by Noah's flood, or the Lord 134 A TOUPv THROUGH IRELAND. Lord knows when; and by others^ that they are derived from Ibme peculiar boggy property of the waters that lodge amongft them. iTiat foiiic of thefe boggy flats were once covered with woods, is highly probable, from the vaft quanti- ties of timber and roots of all kinds and fizes, par- ticalarly of fir, oak, and yev/, that are found at the bottom of many of them, where the turf is taken away. But this is not univerfal ; on the contrary, the m.oft extenfive bogs have the leaft of this timber at the bottom. It is univerfally obfervable, that the furf^ice of thefe bogs is covered with a fliort, thick, and matted kind of heath, which undoubtedly, as it gi'ows and thickens at the top, vegetates at the bottom into a clofe. and extremely radicous texture, and which, from its low fituation, in general, being re- plete with moifture, naturally throws out fucceffive growths of this exceeding ramified heath, a great part of which dies and fhatters upon every return of the winter, and moulders at the bottom, where it clofes and forms another ftrata of mouldered heath, from v/hich,. in the fpring, a new and_ fucceffive flioot of heath is produced ; and thus as thefe ftrata of mouldered heath are annually repeated, the inferior and internal vegetation of the roots increafes and becomes extended higher, and at the bottomi more confolidated ; and this account feems confirmed by the appearance of the turf on the fides of the channel, whei-e it has been dug, which is ever found of a clofer and firmxr texture, as they delcend to the bottom of the bog. I am the more confirmed in this theory of their derivation, from, a circumftance univerfally obfervable^ that the channels which are cut through thefe bogSj either forgetting the turf, or for draining them, will, in a fev/ years, fill up again, and by a vegetative pro- cefs, like what I have defer ibed above, form their origi- nal production. The turf itfelf, as is very apparent from a clofe infpeftionj. is nothing hut a clofely con- creted A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND, 135 cretcJ and extremely fibrous combination of the roots of this heath, which univerfaily grows on the furface of thefe bogs ; and are far from being the produce of the fallen woods, which are frequently, indeed, but not always found at the bottom. I do not at all fuppofe that even the very firft and original growth of this heath, at the bottom of the prefent bog, in anyfenfe fprang from the fallen wood, its neighbouring fub- ftratum. Wherever thefe woods were thrown down, by an inundation, which probably was the cafe, or other- wife, there was undoubtedly fome quantity of earth waOied down upon them from the adjacent hills, and declivities, the uncultivated furface of which, every v/here produces this kind of heath. This firfl: cover- ing of earth would naturally throw out the fame kind of vegetable in the bottom, as in its former fituation- on the hills, and having by this defcent into the flats, obtained a richer foundation, and being fupplied with conltant moifture, which before it often wanted, and, no doubt, greatly fertilized by the very trees and their mouldering leaved, and fmaller branches, inter- mixed with this adventitious covering of earth, it would tiaturally throw out an extraordinary and more- plentiful growth of this heath, and very probably a thicker, and, of courfe, a finer mat of it than any cf the lucceflive and fuperior growths would run into,; arid this the generally clofer and finer texture of the. turf at the bottom feems to confirm ; not to mention that the very roots, from the conftant moifture of their? fituation, and their fibrous texture, m.uft be continually vegetating and thickening into a clofer mafs under the, furface. The fame caufes, in general, take place for pro- ducing thefe turf bogs even upon the tops^ and on ibme of the very declivities of the hills, where they are frequently found : But it is ever in very moift^ iand-fpringy grounds^ or in flats on the hills where 136 A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND; the water fettles and fupplies them with moifture. There feems, indeed, to be, in fome degree, a,kind of fpongy quality in this heath, which prevents the moifture from finking away from it, by an attrad'ion of the fluids from the infinite number of capillary fibres, which are of the yery component fubftance of this vegetative mafs. — In this fenfe, and only in this fcnfc, it is that the waters can be faid to produce them, iind not from any boggy quality in the water itfelf, as pretended by fome writers on this fubjeft:. I can fee no reafon in the world for fup.pofing any other natural tendency in them to produce thefe bogs of turf, or any other connexion whatever with the 'Cffc£l, but the natural and univerfal property of fluids to encourage and fupport vegetation of every kind. ' Tls obfervable, that very little, if any timber, is ever found at the bottom of thefe hills, or mountain- ous bogs \ for they are frequently found in moift flats, on the tops of their very mountains ; yet the turf is oi the fame kind, and only differs in goodnefs for fuel, from the difterent degices of moifture with which it is fupplied in different fituations, the beft turf being ever found where it has the moft conftaut fupply of moifture. In the larger and more extenfive bogs, as in the bog of Allen, which extends almoft acrofs the province of Leinfter, there is very little timber found at the bottom, unlefs it be on the outfides, under the neighbouring hills. It is very evident, therefore, that the timber, fre- quently found at the bottom of bogs in narrow val- lies, much furrounded with hills and eminencies, is by no means the original of the fuperincumbent bog, or turf, though from the caufes above-mentioned. It might help at firft to fertilize the foil, and produce a more luxuriant growth of the heath y the capil- lary, fibrous: roots of which, feem to conftitute the very body and fubftance of the turf. From the pre- ceding A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. 157 ceding obrervations, I prefume, it will be very natu- ral and rational to conclude, that the turf, from top to bottom, is entirely the produce of vegetation from itfelf, in the manner, and by a vegetative procefs above defcribed. And the reafon why this kingdom, in particular, ihould exhibit fuch an extrordinary quantity of thefe turf bogs, is very evidently this, that the foil, by nature, is replete with the feeds of this bog heath, and, indeed, it is found almoft all over the kingdom, high and low, where the lands are in their rude, uncultivated ftate, and it feems by nature, a vegetable inclined to flourifh and increafe where it has a conftant fupply of moiflure, and its roots being extremely thick and fibrous, naturally at- tract and retain the moifture that by whatever caufes gets among them. 'Tis well known that the bogs in many places have rifen feveral feet within the memory of man, and the filling, or rather growing up again of the channels cut to drain the water from fome of them, is a proof that the whole is nothing but a vegetative produce of the heath, which, by a conftant fuccef- lion, or repletion of moifture, grows luxurioufly, thickens into a mat above ground, fhatters a very ;greatpartof it every winter, and a returning fpring throws out a frefh crop from the mouldered fubftra- turn of the laft year's growth, and by fuch an annu- ally repeated procefs, together v/ith the very confi- derable, likewife, internal vegetation, and thicken- ing of the fine roots amongft one another, the fur- face muft necefiarily become more and more elevated. From the whole, it appears very evident, that not- withftanding all the pretences and fanciful conjeftures of the natives, of its derivation from the trees at the bottom, or from fome boggy property in the waters, that the turf bogs which are found in fuch uncommon quantity in this kingdom, are nothing but the natural produc<^ t3S A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. prod ace of the heathy with v/hich the uncultivated parts of Ireland almcft univerfally abound, by being conftantly replete with moifture, fhattering and fpring- ing up again lucceflively for many years from its moul- dered ruins. And a turf bog of the fame kind, I make no doubt, might be produced in any mxoift Hat in England, by fowing the ieeds cf this fpecies of bog heath. The air of thefe bogs, which, by f3me writers, has been reprefentcd as extremely ur ^lolefome and un- healthy, I do not think by any m iS fo bad, as what IS found in many of our marfn-; .nds. I have been riding over the bog of Allen, the moft extenfive of ajvy in the kingdom, for many miles in the weft of Leinfter, at nine and ten o'clock in the evening, and in a perfect calm, and though the air was cool and moiil, yet I perceived no unv/holeforne or offenfive vapours, nothing but the natural fmell of the turf, in which there is nothing very difagreeable, nor by any means equally noxious with the ftinking exhalations from many of our m^oorifh or marfliy grounds. This is the beft account I can give you of thefe turf bogs of Ireland, and of their original derivation. I do not rem^emiber to have feen any of the fame kind in any part of England, though they are found in great plenty, and really engrofs no inconfiderablc lhare of the fur face of this kingdom, and naturally engage the notice of a ftranger to them, from the pe- culiarity of their Internal texture, and the excellent firing they produce. There is, indeed, a kind of fpongy earth in fome few counties in England, that has, by fome, been compared to them, but it is fi^lr from being of an equally radicous or lignous compofition with the turi of Ireland, nor confequently by any means fo good firing. Indeed, iu England there is none of this par-- ticular fpecies of heath that produces it in Ireland, fo A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. 139 far as my obfervation has extended. Though Ireland does in fome places fuperabound with peat, yet I am told that about half the kingdom is deftitute of it ; fo that however difagreeable the bogs of Ireland may ap- pear, they are the prime fources of its wealth, for without them the linen manufacture could not fo much as cxiil. JOURNEY JOURNEY THE THIRD;; THROUGH T H E South- Weft, and Part of the Weftern Counties OF T H, E KINGDOM OF IRELAND. ALL the outlets of Dublin are pleafant, but that is fuperlatively fo which leads through Leixlip, a neat little village, about feven miles from Dublin, up the LifFy \ whofe banks being prettily tufted with wood, and enlivened by gentlemen's feats, afford a variety of landfkips, beautiful beyond defer iption. Near this village is a venerable old houfe, feated on a^ eminence, where lord Townfend fpent his fummers, while chief governor ; and v/hich a late Lord primate ufcd as his country-feat. In the fummer feafon it is much reforted to by gen- teel company from Dublin, and many parts of L'eland^ to drink of a fulphurous fpav/, that emerges clofe by the margin of the river LifFy, a little below the village. At this village are fome beautiful falmon or water -falls, the principal of which is about twenty feet highj with feveral lefler ones above it. The primate's gardens here are extremely pleafmg^ on an eminence along the fide of the river, very fteep to the edge of the water, and fkirted from top to bot- tom, with trees of various kinds, through v/hich the roaring A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. 141 soaring of the fall at the height of about fixty or feventy feet above it, has a very pleafing effecSl, with here and there ' a break through the wood, to get a peep down *iipon the river and the falL To a traveller unufed to fcenes af this kind, it is ^really a nioft diverting kind of entertainment to fee the TTiany unfuccefsful efforts of thefe large and beautiful fifh to gain the top of the fall before they fucceed. I have often been highly diverted for an hour or two in the middle of the day, at this falmon-leap. When they come up to the foot of the fall, you will frequent- ly obferve them to leap up juft above v/ater, as if to make an obfervation of the height and diftance, for^ by fixing your eye on the fpot, you will generally foon fee the fifh leap up again, with an attempt to gain the- top, and to rife perhaps very near the fummit, but the falling \yater drives them forcibly down again ^ you will prefently obferve the fame fifh fpring up again, and rife even above the fall 3 — this is as unfuccefsful as the not rifing high enough, for dropping with their broad- fides on the rapid curvature of the w^aters, they are throv/n back again headlong before they can enter the fluid. The only method of fucceeding in their at- tempts is to dart their heads into the water in its firft curvature over the rocks, by this means they firft make a lodgment on the top of the rock for a few moments, and then feud up the ftream and are prefently out of fight. One would imagine there was fomething in- ' ftinciive in this inclination of the falmon to get up the fall ; for this is the point they are obferved, by the direiiiion of their m-otion, generally to aim at; and the- force of the ftream, on the top of the precipice, is un- doubtedly lefs at the bottom of the water, and clofe to the rock, than it is on the furface of the rapid cur- vature. 'Tis almoft incredible, to a ftranger, the height to which thefe fifti w^ill leap : I afifure you, I have often feen them, at this very fall, leap near. 20 feet : you tnay think, perhaps, that I fhall want more credit - for 142 A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. for this than the generality of my readers will believe I have a right to ; but, upon my honour, 'tis no lefs than matter of fail ; and if the opinion that prevails here in general is true, that they fpring from the bot- tom of the river, they muft rife often 30 or 40 feet. But this is certainly erroneous, their fpring is undoubt- edly from the furface. The manner of giving theni- felves this furprizing leap, is by bending their tails almoft to their heads, and by the ftrong re-a£lion of their tails againft the water it is that they fpring fo much above it y which, when the fifli are large, muft be with very great force to carry them to fuch pro- digious heights as they are fometimes feen to rife. From this general defcription of the falmon-leap at Leixlip, you may form an idea of the reft of this kind, of which there are many in the rivers in this kingdom. At a little diftance from Leixlip, is Caftletown, thc feat of Mr. Conolly, the greateft commoner in the kingdom y whofe houfe is fitted up in the moft elegant modern tafte, and whofe mode of living is in the higheft ftyle of hofpitality. He has a public news or coffee-room, for the common refort of his guefts in boots, where he who goes away early may breakfaft, or who comes in late may dine, or he who would chufe to go to bed, may fup before the reft of the family. This is almoft princely. From thence I made a fhort excurfion to fee Car-- ton-park, the feat of the duke of Leinfter, in the county of Kildare. Of this nobleman, it may, I believe, be faid, that he is the beft accommodated of any in Europe, both for a town and country houfe. From Carton-park I made an excurfion to Tarah, a place fituated between this feat and Navan ; by a little poetic variation from its old name Teamor into Temorah, it has given title to one of the heroic poems of Offian, fon of Fingal. This famous hill is fituated above eighteen miles from Dublin. After A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. After reading the pompous accounts of the trien- nial conventions at Tarah, where the monarch, pro- vincia Ikings, and fubordinate fovereigns, folemnly af- fembled to adjuft rights, enadl laws, and promulge them, one would naturally expe£l that there might ftill remain at leaft fome mouldering heap of that vaft edifice wherein the States-general met. The very fame expeilation is raifed by the etymologift, who affures you that Teamor is, literally interpreted, the great houfe. How then mufl: you be furprized to hear, that there is not even the veftige of a palace to be traced ; nay, that the very hill itfelf is evidence enough to prove, that there never could have been a confiderable houfe of itone and lime upon it. The circular forts indeed ft ill remain, in which the feveral chiefs ufed either to pitch their tents, or to ereft other temporary fneds ; but thefe very intrenchments evince, that fl:one build- ings were not fo much as thought of for this emi- Ticnce. I v/ill not pretend to deny that the monarch might have had, for his own refidence, a ftone houfe, fonie- where near this hill ; perhaps at the foot of it, where the earl of Meath's houfe now ftands. But even this is problematical, efpecially when we confider, that the palace, in which king John entertained the Iriih kings in Dublin, was reared by himfelf, and made of hurdles. We returned to Leixlip, from thence went to May- nooth, a poft-town ten miles from Dublin, and Kil- cock, another poft-town on a branch of the LifFy, three miles further, from thence five m.iles further^ through Clooncurry, and about one m.ore to John- fton-bridge over a branch of the Boyne, called Black-water, v/hich v/e crofted, and about three miles further arrived at Caftle-carberry, and three more to Edenderry, in King's County, all little inconfider- able places fttuated on the verge of the bog of Allen, and ji44 A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. and north of the grand canal between Dublin and the Shannon. From Edenderry keeping the canal at a little diftance on the left hand, we at feven miles diftance entered the poft-town of Philips-town, thir- ty-two miles from Dublin, v/here are barracks for a com{^any of foot. It had formerly a garrifon. Here we made no ftay or obfervation, but proceeded acrofs the grand canal, and at about five miles diftant pafled through Tullamore, a poft-town, and to Killeigh, another little town four miles from thence, leaving a fine country that has been recovered from bogs; en- tering Queen's County with Lough Hanch on the right, and eroffing Shevebloomy-mountains, we pro- ceeded to Burros, about fifty-three miles from Dublin, on a branch of the Noier-river, with Roftrea, a good poft-town about two miles on the right, on the border of the county of Tipperary ; which county we foon after entered, and crofted the river Suire, which rifes hereabouts, and accompanied us on the right hand to the poft-town of Thurles, with the bog of Monely almoft all the way. This town is about eighteen miles weft of Kilkenny, on the river Suire, over which it has a bridge. Here are barracks. The country hereabouts is very barren, and fomewhat fur- ther north vepy mountainous. Within two miles fouth of this place are the venerable remains of the abbey of Holy Crofs, which once gave name to the*-'* country around it. This abbey was founded in 1 169' by Donald O'Brien, whofe monument is ftill to be feen near the high altar, of which Mr. O'Halloran has given a view, as well as of the ftirine in the fouth aile, wherein fome pieces of the crofs were fuppofed to be depofited; both of which are more highly em- belliftied than any other Gothic remain to be feen in the kingdom. The architefture of the building is more than ordinarily elegant for this country, and alone is fufficient to reward a long ride. From Holy Crofs it is about eight miles to Cafhel, which I think A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. 145 I think the pooreft city I ever faw, and may be ranked in the number of indifferent towns, though an arch- bifhoprick. It was originally furrounded by a wall, which, though now mouldering, feems to have been of better materials than the generality of fuch enclo- fures. Two gates are ftill remaining of tolerable workmanfhip ; here is a court-houfe with a prifon under it. In the city are the ruins of an old monaf- tery of Dominicans, and the walls of an old church that was dedicated to St. John the Baptift. Indeed ihere is fomething ftill of a venerable appearance ia the very ficeletons of the churches and monafteries of thisancient city, which in the native language is called Ciafoil, a compound word that means to receive th€ taxes of the king ; for we are allured that before the cont|ueft, there were kings of Cafhel, :^vho were often bifhops as well as monarchs. We were Ihewtt a ftone, as we went up to the cathedral, where the kings of Munfter were formerly crov/ncd ; on which lion (5 the appointed perfon fat, at fundry times, to recei\^e the king's taxes from the fubjedts, which I fuppole were not fmall, fince he received fpiritual with th^ temporal dues. The city and fuburbs certainly were very large once, fmce we find no lets than thirty- eight brev/ers were cited before a convention, for not paying their dues to the church, of tv/o flaii;gons of ale at each brevv'ing. King Henry 11. in this city received the homage of Donald king of Limerick, ann. 1172 ; and here he held a fynod. At prefent it does not contain above 6co houfes, fome of which are very decent, and the iii habitants polite; for the a- muicment of v/hom, there is an annual horfe-race ; and a genteel affcmbly reforted to by good company, smong whom every thing v/ears the face of feftivitv and pleafure. Among other thing?, during my flay here, I obfervcd in tlie rnarket a great number of little bags, which m.en carried in upon their fhouiders, and I \ki down for fale. Upon examination, I found them H filled 146 A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND, fiHed-with wheat; fome of them contained ten or •twelve pounds, fome^a flone and a half, fome more and fom€ lefs. It is hardly neceflary to review the face of the country, in order to learn the ftat-e of its -agriculture ; this fmgle fa(3: refle6ls it as a mirror. The cathedral is not in the town, but near it, built •upon a rock, and ufually called the Rock of Cafheh -It was founded by Cormac, both king and bi'fhop ; -and has been enlarged by feveral kings and eminent men after him. There is a wall round the cathedral, •on the fummit of the rockj^and another below it. The church was dedicated to St. Patrick, and has been a maft noble Gothic building; the fight of which alone is a full compenfation for palling unnoticed other places Tmce we laft left Dublin. This building is at once the : largefi: and mofi: ancient in the kingdom ; a view of it may .;be taken with advantage from the arohbiftiop's houfe. - The dimenfion of the nave and choir, from eaft to weft,, is about 200 feet, as I computed by ftepping through nettles,, and over-tumbling fragments of ftone and mortar. The fteeple is in the centre of the crofs ; near the eaft angle of the north aifle is a round tower, to which leads a fub terraneous paflage from the church. •Tradition fays it is the oldeft ftrufture upon the rock, which feems more than probable from a trifling cir- eumftance ; all the buildings upon the rock, which is limeftone.or marble, are built of the fame material, ^^xcept the tower, which is of Treeftone. It may, -therefore, be at leaft prefumed, that the pra£lice of quarrying was not then very common. . Sir James Ware fays, this cathedral v/as built about the time of the arrival of the Englifli under Henry II. but a learned clergyman affured me, that in this the knight was miftaken; for it appears from an inquifition made m thefecqnd of Henry IV. that the donation of certain lands, by the founder Donald O'Brien, v/as confirmed by letters patent of king John. Donald was brother to Morough More, king of Munfter A. D. 1086, an4 that A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. 147 ^his authentic record is to be feen Rot. Pat, ii. T. Cormac's chapel, which you may obferve in the angle, on the fouth of the choir, is near two centuries ■ older than the church ; for Cormac was king of Mun- •fter A. D. 901. This chapel, fifty feet by eighteen in ■ the clear, is a very curious ftruiture, and of a ftyle total ly d ifferent from the church . Bo on the outfide and infide, are columns over columns, better proportioned than one could expedl, from either the place or the; time. The ceiling is vaulted, and the outfide of the roof .is corbeled fo as to form a pediment pitch. At the angles of the eaft end are two fmall towers. It may not be unworthy cbfervation, that the chapel is not parallel to the church, as it tends to confirm the 'greater antiquity of the chapel ; for had the church been the older building, it is probable they would 'have acconimodated the chapel to it, though, on the contrary, they v/ould not have adapted the church to the chapel. As the firft builders df churches were religioufiy exa£l in placing them due eaft and weft, the deviation of the chapel from the true line, we may prefume, was ccrrecbed in the church. If we could be certain that due attention was given to the meridian, at founding each of thefe ftrudtures, then the want of parallel i I'm in them would become a datum for afcertaining the difference of their dates. For we know that the equinoxes move i?2 antecedently^ one degree in feventy-two years : therefore, by turning the angle, which'thefe two buildings make with each other, into years, we have the interval between their refpe£live foundations. If this angle, the meafurem.eni of which I Jeave to fome future traveller, be three degrees, it wouid 'anfwer. ne^lrly to the fdppofed difference. But the angle was apparently much greater ; fay nine de2:rees, 'and then it w'ill bi-Ing. the foundation of the chapel to the middle of the' fifth cei,uurvv And it is ntore than probable that it y/as ei-eded' by Cormac, upon - -H ^ ' the 14.8 A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. the very foundation of that church, originally built here by St. Patrick. That there was an edifice of lime and flone here in the fifth century. Major Valiancy (hews to be highly credible ; for the name of the place is mentioned in the acls of the life of St. Patrick, and that name Cas-ioly fignifies literally a houfe of lime and flone. As this was the feat of the kings of Munfter, we may naturally fuppofe, that the caftle upon the rock was their refidence, before the introdudlion of chrifHanity, as it continued to be after. Cormac was not only king but archbifliop. l^he following is the quaint epitaph of an archbifhop of Cafliel, who was a great favourite of queen Eliza- beth. Bedrid, for two years before his death, which happened in his hundredth year, had the infcription deeply cut on a plate over his monument ; which is placed on a high bafis in the fouth fide of the choir^ with his effigy in alto relievo. Mileri Magrath Archiepifcopi Cafhelienfis ad viatoreni carmen. Venerat in Dunum primo fancciffimus dim Patricius, noftri gloria magna foii. Huic ego fuccedens, utinam tarn icxnCtMS ut ille. Sic Duni primo tempore prseful eram, Anglia, lufira decern, f^d poft, tua fceptra colebam, Principibus placui, marte tonante, tuis. Hie, ubi fum pofitus, non fum, fum ubi non fumj Sum nec in ambobu?, fum fed utroque loco. Dominus eft qui me judicat. Qui ftat caveat ne cadat. There are fcveral monuments befides this within the church. As the rock of Cafhel overlooks the town, and at the fame time a great extent of country, the moft fer- tile in the kingdom, it is no v/onder that it was chofea for the refidence of the kings of Munfter, It has, however^ loft its rank of importance among the cities, for A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. 149 for want of a navigable river. This would have more availed it at prefent, than that it was once the throne of kings. Such a tract of country as is fcen from the rock, if in England, or even under the hands of common induftry, would be as beautifully rich as any in the Britifli empire. From thence you have an extended horizon, except where the Gaultee mountains inter- pofe ; and this long chain of lofty fummits gives a iiiofl: piflurefque contour in many places. Yhe in- terjacent grounds, fertile as avidity irfelf could wife, are not a dead level, but gently diverfihed by lively undulations. After all, the profpccb is far fromx being pleafant. It requires an abfliaclion of adventitious clrcuni- ftances to perceive its natural beauty , with a total hegle6l of cultivation, there is fcarce a tree to be feen. The country is interfecled with walls of dry ftone, and ditches that never have been quicked. The fquire's country feat, the rich farm-houfe, or even the warm cottage, are here looked for, but looked for in vain. If there be an habitation, it is that of the f^ce-ground fhepherd, whofe fordid hovel ferves but to call a deeper fliade upon the gloom of depopulation. Philanthrophy would ficken at the foi-lorn ftate of this goodly trci£l. In the town is a large and comfortable fee-houfe, built within half a century. The old epifcopal feat was on the weft end of the cathedral. But this was battered in the rebellion of 1641 by lord Inchiquin, who put all the priefts to death he found in it^ as they were the principal part of the garrifon which de- fended the fortrefs. The prefent archbifhop has a houfe upon his own eftate, where he lives. You will be furprized when I tell you, that there is not even a roofed church in this metropolis; the fervice being performed in a forry room, where country courts are held. The H 3 choir 150 A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. choir of the cathedral was kept- in repair, and ufed as , a {larifii church, till within thirty years ; but the fitu-. ation not being accelTible enough, — which, hov/ever, 201. would have rendered fo, — the roof was wantonly pulled down, an a£t of parliament and a grant of money being firft obtained, to change the fite of the cathedral, from the rock to the town. A new church, of ninety feet by forty-five, was accordingly begun, and raifed as high as the wall plates j but in that ifate it has flood for near twenty years. You would be amazed, confidering how thinly the country is inhabited, at the number of Romanifls I faw on Sunday, ailembled together. Round the altar were-feveral pictures, which, being, at the diftance of a very long nave of an old monafiery, I went round; to the door of one of the tranfepts, in order to feq; them rnore diflincSly. The pr-iefl was very decently;- liabited, in vefiments of party-coloured filk, with a Jarge crofs embroidered on the autfide a garnienty which hung down behind. He muttered the fervice^; and frequently turned round- to the altar and kilTed it, after having firfl bov/ed to it. On the altar burned twocandles ; juit emblem of their fuperflition ! The dim light of tapers held forth in' the blaze of day. Yet, even here, it is pofTible, that God may be wor- Ihipped in fpirit and in truth j for he " dwelleth not in temples made by hands, as if he needed any thing." This argues not, hov/ever, that true religion fliould l.etv her temples fall into ruin and decay. Much, very much, depends upon a decent exterior. What elfe has the church of Rome to fupport herfelf upon ? Even that beggarly difplay of outward elements, ex- hibited in this old abbey of Cafhel, has fomewhat to engage the imagination, and even to mend the heart. One of the caufes afTigned by Spencer for the ob- flru6lion. of due reformation in Ireland, is the negle£l of churches 3 wbich he complains " lie for the mofl part A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. i^i part even with the ground; and of thofe lately re- paired, fome are fo unhand fomely patched and thatch- ed, that men do even fhun the places for the un - comelinefs thereof." After quitting the abbey, I went to the court-leet. room, to hear, and, I own, to fee the fervice of God . ^ performed, according to the ufage of the church of * England ; and there I- found a thin congregation,- compofed of fome well-drefTed women, • fome half dozen boys, and perhaps half a fcore of foot foldlers: For there is a fchool and a barrack in the town. How differently is the (rate of thediocefe of A rmagh reprefented! We went about a mile from this ancient city', to walk in the lovely meadows'that border on' the river Suire^ where we faw a very larrge caftl©' looking on the ftream ; and though a great part of it has fed old time, yet there are apartments pretty well kept up, although covered with thatch; but the high trees, which are inhabited by a vaft colony of rooks, ' fet it ofF very much. From Caftiel we proceeded! over Golden-bridge and the river Suire, to 'Fhomas-town, about five miles on* the road to the village of Tipperary, where is a vene^ rable feat, and a park the largeft and beft planted in this kingdom; containing, it is faid, above 1500- Irifli acres, or near 2000 EngliCh; and abounding with droves of red, and other deer, proportionable to' its extent. The Gaultees are fet at fuch a due dif-- tance, that they are thefineft termination for the pro-- fpeit a painter could defire; the lands are rich, - and the trees the beft grown I hav^e feen in Ireland. Here are all the capabilities for a terreftrial paradife ; and* yet one thing is wanting that mars the whole. Every violence, that fne is capable of fuiTerlng, has been done to Nature. Behind the houfe is a fquare parterre of fl-owers, with terraces thickly ftudded with biifts and ftatues ^ before it, a long and blind avenue, planted" with trcble H 4 row;s ssz A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. rows of well-grown trees, extends its aukward length, in the centre of this, and on the acclivity of the hill, terminating the vifta, are little fifti-ponds, pond above pond. The whole park is thrown into fquares and parallelograms, with numerous avenues fenced and planted; where if a hillock dared to interpofe its lictic head, it was cut ofl-' as an excrefcence, or at leaft cut through; that the roads might be every where as level, as th.ey are ftraight. llius v/as this delightful fpotj treated by fome Procruftes _ of the lalt age. ^ I own to you I felt more pain than pleafure in this demefne. . 1 could not help v/ifhing, that inftead of torturing the place to the plan, they had accommodated the plan to the place. Indeed, all predifpofed plans for laying out grounds are dangerous; for every place has within itfelf a plan, from v/hich true rafte can never deviate. Nature may be imiproved, but never changed to advantage. Levelling hills and raifing mounds, at a vaft expence, is like the cuftom of the Indians, who lavifh their blood, in flitting their ears, and gafning their faces, to improve their beauty. From Thomas-town,^ three miles further brought us to Tipperary, a fmall, but thriving village, with little or no m.anufa6lure. Indeed an effort has been made to eftablifh the linen manufafture, and for this purpofe a colony of northern v/eavers was fettled there about forty years ago ; but it proved ineffedtual ; for the children of thole weavers, like the other natives, neither weave nor fpin ; and in every thing but reli- fion, are undiftinguifhable from the general mafs. uch is the refilicncy of all nature to its original ftate. General and inveterate habits of floth, mufl be removed upon fyftematic principles, before a way can be made for the intrcduciion of the arts of in- duftry ; a few examples are not fufficient to excite an imitation of better things. We are all by nature abhorrent of labour, for labour gives pain. Sloth muft A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. 153 muft prevail, till the incentives to diligence overpower the propenfity to idlenefs ; which can never be the cafe, till artificial wants become, at leaft, as numer- ous as thofe which are really natural. If an Irifh- man feels no j.nconveniencc from v»"alklng barefoot^ he will hardly be induced to work for the price of brogues* . The manner In which the poor of this country live, I cannot help calling beaftly. For upon the fame floor, and frequently without any partition,, are lodged the hufband and v/ife, the multitudinous brood of children, all huddled together upon ftraw or ruflies, with the cow, the calf, the pig, and the horfe, if they are rich enough to have one. Their houfes are of feveral forts ; but the moit common is the fod-w^all,, as they call it. By fods you are to underftand the grafly furnice of the earth* Some build their houfes of mud, others uie ftone with- out mortar, for two or three feet from the ground, and fpd or mud for two or three on the top of that ; their lide-walls being feldom above five or fix feet high. Sometimes vou may fee an ingenious builder avait himfelf of the fide of a ditch, which fcrves for a fide- wall, and parallel thereto, he rears a wall in one or other of the modes I have defcribed, as his own fancy^ the facility of the method, or abundance of materials may lead him. Another will improve upon this plan, and make the grip or folTe of the ditch,, ferve for the area, of hi s:^ habitation, by a little paring to w^den the fpacs he being thus faved the labour of erecting fide-walls,- and having only the trouble to build his gabJes for the which his prompt invention has a noble fueceda- jieum in the hip roof* Their mode of roofing rs not lefs Ingenious. They take the branches of a tree, the largeit of v^'hich. they Mfe as principals and purlins,, and the remainder they Jay paralkl to the principals, for fuppcrt of a thin, uar- 154 A TOUR THROUGH TRELAND. ing of" the graffy furface of meadow ground, like the fbds, only much broader, tougher, and thinner. Thefe they call fcraws, micaning to be fure fcrowls, ' feeing they are rolled up in that form, as they are pared. With thefe however they cover the fmall branches or wattles, and over all they fallen a coat of ftrav;'', or,, in default of ftraw, they cover with rufhes or the hauni of their beans and potatoes, and in mountainous tracts, with heath. Sometimes they hare a hole in tfce roof to let out the fmoke, and fometimes none. For to have a chim- ney, would be a lu^ciiry too great for the generality. The confequence is a houfe full oY "fmoke, at leaft in the upper region, w^here it fioats in thick clouds, the lower part being pretty clear of it. To avoid the acri- mony of which you are obliged to ftcop dov/n^ the poor man of the houfe immxediately offers you a low iloo], that you may be, what he calls, out of the fmoke. And this is, probably, the only ftool in the houfe ; for the children neftle round the fire almoft Jiaked, with their toes in the afhes. Even the women^ though not fo naked, fit upon their hams in the fame way. But in fpite of their general adhefion to the ground, the old people are, for the moft part, blear- eyed, with pale and footy faces. The only folace thefe miferable mortals have, is in matrimony, accordingly they all marry young. Moft girls are, one way or another, mothers at fixteen ; and every houfe has fhoals of children. Not that, I fuppofe, women are by nature more prolific here than in England, yet their early marriages, and neceffary temperance, furnifh more frequent inftances of fcecun* dity. ]N.or is this country without infl^uices of extreirie longevity. Mr. Ruflcl, of Cloneen, died, April 1770;^ ;tt the age of 145. But fuch are not found iii the fdoty cabins, whofe wretched ov/ners do not grew to the iize of well'fed m^Uy and confequently caniiot extend' their A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. 155 their lives to the natural term. People may fay what they pleafe about the whoiefomenefs;of a mere potatoe diet ; but file w me a fet of men, v/ith fuch a rofy hue of health, as the butchers of England. From the promifcuous way thefe people lie together, ar fufpicion naturally arifes in a ftrangers mind, that inceft is unavoidable amongft them. Yet upon the ftriclefi: inquiry, I find the fa£l to. be otherwife. They are bred up in fuch an abhorrence of the turpi- tude 6f this crime, that I am iriclined to think it as infrequeht here, as among more civilized nations. The better fort of people feem rather furpri zed that I Ihould entertain fuch an opinion ; which only Ihev/s, that what we fee praftifed from our infancy, , though ever fb unnatural, makes no impreffion. A little refleilion, however, will remove even the grounds of fufpicion. Bred up from childhood to- gether, their wonted and innocent familiarity is car- ried on Itep by ftep, without impure emotions being excited. One of thefe poor fouls is no more inflamed by the nude bofom -of a fifter, than in a more afBuent flkte he would be on feeing it covered with gauze. There is no indecency in mere nakednefs. .Would drapery add to the mo'^efty of the Medicean Venua ! The c haft eft eye may^^ze upon the naked figures of the Graces. Yet nothing is feen that our Madojias do not difclofe. It is the imagination too dainty, froin miftaken refinements, .. that annexes modcfty or ini • modefty to drefs, or to the want ^qf it. ' There af^.<:ertain adjuniJl:s peculiar, neither tp the concealment nor difplay of beauty, capable of exciting ideas either grofs or- refij-ied. And as the a^tift, by Jivaiiing hhnfelf of thefe affociations, m^y paints mo- defty naked, and lewdiiiLefs wrapped up,, fo the. naked- nefs of favage nati^>ns may, not tend to immorality, v/hilft the drefs of civilized psople may be pandets-to fenftiality, VV-a« there net an a»ncient kgiilator^ who. iS6 AiTOUR>THlicuGH IRELAN0. in order to leflen the influence of women over the men, c-Kpofcd them naked ? At a little diftance from Tipperary town, is a large unfiniihed houie of lord Milton*s, at Shronhill, but the country round it is not much cultivated except for pallurage, nor its appearance pleafant. Soon after this v/e entered the county of Limerick. The little culture, which is carried on hereabouts, is e^erciftd by the very dregs of the people, upon one Jicre or two, in the word manner, fubfervient only to their immediate fupport, without any farther profpcft. I'heir very implements of labour are of the moft awk-^ ward and ineffe6tual forms. From vvhat I have faid before, you may conceive that agriculture is at a very low ebb in this country ; I need not add that you may ride for miles, in the moft fertile part of it, without feeing an acre of ploughed ground j except where potatoes had been a year or two before. This is a fubjecl I do not underftand, but the procefs of cultivation, generally adopted by the poor, I hear, is this : the firft year they plant potatoes upon the ley, the next they fow here, the third wheat, and the fourth oats. When I tell you the price of lands here, you wilJ perhaps fufpecSl I report upon hafty information. Yet be aflured that 40^. an acre is the common rent of good lands, and that the beft are rented at two guineas, which are 2/. 55. and 6d, of this currency. It is true,^ that the Irifh acre is larger than the Englifli, the pro- portion of the fquares of the perches, viz. 7 and 5 and a half. A great part of Tipperary and L-imerick, is farmed at two guineas per acre. The rents are made almoft entirely by grazing, and every care is taken to improve the breed of cattle. They bring over, at the peril of forfeiting both fliip and cargo, Lincolnfliire rams ; and the race of thefe are fold from iive tO twenty, and fometimes thirty guineas a ram, ■ The A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. 1^7 The landlord, who gets his rent without trouble, and the grazier, who thrives upon depopulation, will tell you the lands of Munfter are fo rich, that they are injured by cultivation. This, however, fcarcely requires a ferious anfwerj for, if their lands were as fruitful as Arabia Felix^ induftry would improve them ; but they have many fpaces that demand perpetual culture. Their meadows, moftly in their loweft and wetteft grounds, have never been drained, manured, or fowed with grafs feeds. If we add to this, what ground might be iaved, by feed- ing their flocks with turnips, peas, beans, carrots, cab- bages, &c. it will be evident that the fame farms^ now occupied by brutes exclufively, would maintain the fame numbers ftill, together with farmers and manu- fa£!:urers five-fold. There is, I am told, a ftatute, unrepealed, enjoin- ing the cultivation of not lefs than five acres out of each hundred, under the penalty of But this aft is as dead as the letters of it; for all the rich are delinquents, and none but the impotent poor are left to enforce the performance of it, Befides the quan- tity to be tilled was inadequate to the purpofe of po- pulation, and the penalty too fmall for a fanftion, if the quantity had been fufficient. In Mr. Armftrong's library, a worthy clergyman of Tipperary, may be found great entertainment, not only from the books, but from forae antiq^ue curio- fities, difeovered in the neighbouring bogs. Thefe are of fuch im.portance to the forming juft ideas of the ancient ftate of Ireland, that it needs no apology to. enumerate fome of the antique curiofities found in a. fmall bog at Cullen, near Tipperary, with the time of their difcovery. Horns large enough to have a circle of about three feet diameter defcribed on each palm. 1731, A brazen vefTel, containing two gallons and' an half^ which had four Jegs, a broad bumped bot- tom^ 158 A'TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. tarn, growing narrow to the neckband from thence wider towards the brim, and weighed nirieteea pounds. 1732, A poor woman, taking up a black flimy: ftuft', which lies- very deep, to dye wool, found three pieces of bright metal of equal fize, and in fliape of heaters ufed for fmoothing, which, weighing feven pounds and art half, fhe fold as brafs. Same year, a labourer found a piece of gold, like the fruftrum of a fphei'oid, lefs than half a fmall egg, which weighed three ounces four pennyweight feven grains. 1738, Seven arrows of brafs, about fiv^e inches Ictfig each, - two inches of which formed a focket of three fourths of an inch diameter, in each of which was a ftiaft of rotten wood, about nine inches long — from the focket to the point they were two-edged and tapered ; on either fide was a beard, one inch and an half long from the point. — Thirteen fpears of the fame< metal, ten inches long, four of which formed a docket of about on-e inch and three fourths in dia- meter;, at -tbr entrance of the handle near the focket the blades were broad, but gra^dually grey/ accute to the point"; the handles of each feemed found and of quartered afii 5 about fix feet, but on taking them up they foon m.ouldered away^ they all v/eighed fix pounds' and an half. 1739, A hoy fonnd a circular plate of beaten gold, about eight- inches- in diameter^, lapped up in a triaa- gtilar form, wherein were inclofed three ingots of gold, weighing about a pound. ' 1742^ A thin plate of gold, in the form of an ellip- fis, the tra-nfverfe diameter about tv/o inches and a quarter, and >the conjugate lefs th^n an inch; weight: eighteen pennyweight fifteen grains. > ' 1744> A golden cup- in almoft the form of a wine glafs, the handle of which Was hoilov/, and about. one inch and an half long, of the^ thicknefs of a- goofe quill 5 : it was* chfafedj and- CGn^a.iri^d^ about a ^thimble- full 3 A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. 155 full ; the bottom was ffat and about the breadth of a fix-pence, weight twenty-one pennyweight twelve grains. A tube of four jnches long, and as thick as the ftem of a tobacco-pipe, which weighed one ounce feven pennyweight twenty grains. • 1745, A quadrangular veffel of bright yellow me- t^l, each fide of v/hich about ten inches long at the brim, and from the brim to the bottom eight inches ; five inches from the brim was entirely fiat, the re- mainder was femiglob.ular ; on either fide was an handle, like thofe on common metal pots. 1 his the poor woman who found it fold to a tinker for a {hil- ling. N. B. The common Irifh, at this dayj, have a vefTel, not unlike this, of folid timber, excavated, which they call a" Mather; the only difference is, that the mather is not fo wide, and all the fides are flat, and the mouth is fomewhat voider than the bot- tom. In a cabbin where I entered they offered us cream in a mather to drink. 1748, A brafs weapon, two feet feven inches Jong, which was two-edged from the hilt to the point, Thefe edges very much refembied the fin which pro- ceeds out of both fides of an eel, from the navel to the top of the tail. It feemed to have been caft in that form and never whetted. It was one inch and three- fourths broad near the hilt, from which, for four in- ches, it was diminiftied to an inch and a quarter. From thence to the middle it increafed an inch and an half; and from thence it grew narrower to the termination in an acute point. The blade v/as near^ hair an inch thick; the part taken for the hilt v/as about five inches, near an inch broad in the middle, but left toward the blade and the pommel; in it were fixrivets, each of which v/as about three-fourths of an inch long," and on one of them hung a thin piece of gold, which v/eighed twelve pennyv/e;ght nine grains. 1747, A girl found a thin plate of gold rolled up;,, which extended J was fourteen inches long, and about* a q^uar- i6o A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. a quarter broad — another of the fame kind'was found in a fod of turf, as flue made the fire. 1749, A plate of gold, round, and ten inches in diameter. There was a gold wire inlaid round the rim, and about three inches towards the centre there was gold twifl: fowed in and out, and by it another plate of four inches diameter was faftened within— for the larger had a hole in the middle wherein the lefler was concentrically fitted* Three tubes like goofe quills fplit open. 1750, A fmall plate of gold, in the form of an equilateral triangle, of one inch and three-fourths each fide. The finder fold it to a pedlar without weighing for 2I. 12s. — And his wife found, the fame year, in a fod of turf, a piece of gold which weighed eleven pennyweight fixteen grains — a ring like a ring* dial, one ounce three pennyweight twelve grains. 175 1, Such another weapon as that found in 17485. on the rivets of which was a plate of gold which co- vered one fide; at the end of which was a thing like the pommel of a fmall fword, with three links of a chain hanging out of it : all the gold together weighed three ounces three pennyweight eleven grains. A plate of gold five inches broad at one end, and four on the other, and almoft fix long, beautifully chafed and engraved. The goldfmith, to whom it was fold, faid he fuppofed it to have been part of a crown. It weighed one ounce twenty pennyweight fixteen grains. A piece of hollow gold, in form of the mucro of a fcabbard of a fmall fword, which weighed on^e ounce twent:y-three pennyweight Seventeen grains. ' A weapon of the fame form of that defcribed in 1748, but that the metal of this was more refined. A goldfmith upon trial found there was gold in it. Clofe' tp.the hilt on the thick part was engraved an oblong fqiiare, about one i^ch and an half long, inlaid with pje^Wjcr and cooper, ' ^ ' ' ' ^^^^^ Afinall A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. i6r A fmall hollow cylindrical piece of brafs, two inches and an half long, and about three-fourths of an inch diameter, open at one end j the oiher end re- fenibled a finder, ufed by coopers in cleaving twigs, A gold veffel in the form of our chalice, but with a handle naturally curved. The cup was cracked and bulged, but opened to its full capacity would contain almoft: a point. The bottom was not found. The cap and handle were chafed and engraved, and weighed ten ounces twelve pennyweight twenty-three grains. Two thin leaves of gold, folded in each other like the hats of babies, each about three inches in diameter ; the crown of one of them was in the form of a cone and fmooth. John Damer, Efq; of Shronhill, gave for them their weight in coin, viz. one guinea and an half. A piece of gold almoft in form of a large fcollop fhell, Mr. Damer gave for this alfo its weight ia coin, viz. fourteen guineas and an half. Two pieces of gold, one like a man's thumb, and hollow, the other an oblong fquare, about three inches long and one broad, both weighed three ounces, nine pennyweights, twenty-one grains, and about two grains of gold wire. A lump of coarfe brafs of about a pound v/eight, which feemed to have remained in the ladle after cafting. A piece of gold two inches long, as thick as a child's finger, and that feemed to have been cut off a larger piece, on the edge of an anvil ; it weighed one ounce feven grains. Something in the form of a bow, about fix Inches long, of black heavy wood, but gritty like a ftone : on either end was a thin plate of gold, which entirely- covered about half an inch of it, thro' which paffed a fcrew which faftened the plate, and from which ap- pended a little gold chain. The plates and chain were (without being weighed) fold for two guiaeas» The wood is ii> the poffeffion of Mr. Damer, i5a. A TOUR through IRELAND, 1753, Twenty-two of the brafs fwords, pretty much as before defcribed, fome of which were an inch more, and fome much lefs than two feet — and three only fourteen inches, A little crown of filver was lately found near Ca- fliel ; the diameter of which is two and an half, and the height three and an half inches. It muft, I con- jedture, have belonged to fome image of the Virgin, or rather child, either in the cathedral, or fome of the^ nion alter ies of Cafliel. There is a tumulus near this town, amidfl: Jiillocks:: nearly of the fame fhape, and overhanging a glafTy lak-e. Thefe tumuli are mounds of earth thrown up, a? fepulchral monuments, in form of a truncated cone^ and of dimenfions different, I prefume, ac- cording to the dignity of the deceafed. Such monuments could be raifed only for perfons of the firft quality'. And from a line in Lucan one WQuid think they were appropriated to kings. Et regum cineres extruSfo monte quiefcunt. Plutarch relating the death of Demaratus, the Co- rifithian, upon a vifit he paid to Alexander the Great, fuys, '' That he had a moft magnificent funeral, the w^hole army raifing him a monument of earth, four- fcore cubits high, and of a vaft circumference." Thefe monuments are vulgarly called Danes- mbuntSi Yet, wherever they have been opened, urns hav-e been found in them ; a circumftance, which alone disproves their being Danifh. For the prac- tice 'of burning the dead was difufed long before the I>anes poffefled themfelves of Ireland, or rather of the maritime towns^; for I do not find that their do- minion extended to the internal parts. Had thefe mounts been thrown up by the Danes, from the odium in which, even to this day, the me- m«^y of. thofe invaders is held, the Iriili would not have failed to demolifli fucb niemoHals of their own- H . • difgrace. A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. 163^ difgrace, as foon as they had expelled the authors cf' it. But fo far are they from deftroying them^ they hold them in veneration, and it would be difficult to find a labourer hardy enough to violate the facred earthy with a fpade. Herodotus fpeakingof the tombs rai fed by the Scythi- ans for their kings, fays, they laboured to. raife as high: a mount of earth for them as pofTible." Thefe artifi- cial hills then muft be attributed to the Scythian origin/ of this people. I was furprifed to find the ingeni- ous Mr. Molineaux afcribing them to the Danes, efpecially as he mentions two coins of the emperors Theodofius and Valentinian, being found in that fa- mous tumulus, at New Grange, near Drogheda, This, though not a decifive evidence, is certainly a prefumptive one, that thefe fepulchres were anterior to the Danes in Ireland; and the rather, as thole coins are defcribed to be fliarp and unworn. Such mounts, however, are not peculiar to Ireland, A brafs fword w^ found in a bog near CuUen,. which is twenty fix inches in length, and weighs near' two pounds. What makes thefe brazen fwords fuch a valuable rem-^ nant to the Irifh antiquarian, is, they ferve to corrote* rate the opinion, that the Phoenicians had footing in this kingdom, for the fword blades fo lately found upon' the planes of Cannae, were of the fame metal and conflruiSlion ; and being ufed by the Carthaginian??, who were originally Tyrians, they eflablifli the cer- tainty, that thefe bi'afs weapons v/ere Phoenician alfo. Consequently, fomewhat more than prefumptiom,^ arifesj that Ireland had its arts and letters from thc-^ country of Cadmus; as her traditions: unifc^rmly i^e-^^ port. I cannot avoid mentioning to you a. circumflance relative to the brafs fword : Lord Townfend liked its form fo much, that he told Mr. Armftrong he would adopt it in his regiment of artillery, EanyOa muft know that r64 A TOUR through IRELAND. that when this nobleman was lord lieutenant of Irf Agherlow on one fide, difputes with Mangerton, in •the county of Kerry, pre-eminence of altitude. Yet, in this refpecl, they are not to be compared to Snow- ^^cion, or even others of the Welch mountains. But they are of forms the moil beautiful, fantaftic, ^and piifturefcjue, that can be imagined. Firft they rife from littk hills^ till at length they.fwell into moun- tains. A TOUR THOROUGH IRELAND. 167 tains, acclivity above acclivity, fliade above fliade ; Ibme piercing the clouds in fpiral lines, fome conically acuminated, and fome over-hanging the reft, in hor- rible magnificence. However poor Michael's-town now is, it is the^ principal place in the barony of Clangibbon and Con- dons ^ near it is a fine houfe with a park, and improve- ments of the Earl of Kingfton, feated on an eminence that comrpands a noble profpe£l E. and W, In the houfe is a large hall, round which, on the top, runs a Jiandfome corridor ; the ftair-cafe large and light, oa the cieling of which is painted the rape of Proferpine. Above the hall is a gallery, 70 feet long and 20 broad y from whence is a line profpefl: of the Gaul tee moun- tains to the N. E. the high mountains of Knockmele- down to the S. E. and in the center of both, the Cumeraghs, in the county of Waterford ; all ranged in the manner of the fcenes of a vaft theatre. Several of the chambers are furnifhed with variety of coloured marbles, found on the adjacent grounds. On the E. fide of the houfe ftands an bandfome tower, in v^^hich is an elegant ftudy, well furnifhed with books, and beautified v/ith bufls and paintings; and to the N. is a fine canal, lately formed, the fides of which being rifing grounds, are adorned with peniile gardenrs. On the S. flands the park, finely wooded, and well ftdcked .with great variety of deer. Here are alio other gar- dens, kept in fine order ; and near the houfe ^are the the walls of a caflle, which belonged to a white kiiight, and waf? a fine old building, but deftroyed in the wars of 1641. MichaePs-town is feventeen miles from' Cork, fituated on a height, in a rich lime^ftone foil.- Here is a pretty market-houfe, built of hewii ftone, where is held a large weekly market, and fome good houfes. At one end of the town is the church in decent re- pair, being a chapel of eafe to Brigowne, now in ruin^s, which, if we may believe' Colgan, was an ancient iiflioprick. The wails of this ctturdi ftiil remain ; they i68 A TOtJR THROUGH IRELAND. they were built of large blocks of a very fine freeftone^ brought hither a great way from the jnountains : 1 have obferved, that moft of our ancient churches were built of this ftone : Here were the remains of one of the round towers, which flood thirty yards from the fouth weft angle of the church, and fell down in the memory of feveral people. A relic was kept here, call- ed Baculus Finachani, i. e. St. Finachan's ftafF; on which the adjacent country people ufed to fwear, and to which faint this building is attributed ; his feftival is kept here on the 25th of November. Brigowne is a mile eaft of Michael's-town* Near the latter place is a good chalybeat fpaw, now flop- ped up by the falling of the earth into the well. A gentleman having mentioned a water near Michael's- town, which he faid had the quality of purging horfes ; when I went to the fpot, I found^ it to be a fine lime- ftone fpring, and that the place Abounded with the Ci^- cutaAquatica, or Hemlock- water Dropwort, which I imagine gave this purging quality to the water. A jnile fouth of Michael's-town, on a hill, flands the caflle of Cahirdriny, i. e. Fort ProfpetSt, built by the Roches, at prefent is the eftate of Arthur Hyde, Efq; whofe anceflor. Sir Arthur Hyde, lived in this caflle, in which he was often attacked by the Irifti. It commands a very extenfive profpe£l, and is alfo feen from every part of the adjacent country ; and a mile wefl of Michael's-town, is the caflle of Cari- ganure, built by the Condons. From Michael's-town the country becomes unfpeak- ably dreary for feven or eight miles. The greateft part of it is an unvaried wafle, without either hill or dale., bog or mountain, arable or paflure ; for though high, it is level ; and though black, it is extremely hard too flony for the plough, and too barren for grafs. We proceeded to Pharabry, three miles to the weft, where is a decent new built' church, an Englifli pro^ teftaut A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. teftant fchool, and a parfonage prettily fituated. From hence the river Funcheon accompanied us three miles fouth-caft to Glanworth, leaving the ruined caftle of Dunmahon on the left. Glanworth is fituated two miles north of the Black- water on the Funcheon river, formerly a corporation, now a decayed village. Here was an abbey, of which the nave of the church, with a low fieeple, remain. Near this abbey, on the verge of the Funcheon ri- ver, is a fine fpring, bubbling out of a limeftone rock, of limpid water, held in great efteem, as an holy well, by the fuperftitious Irifn ; it is dedicated to St, Do- niinick, and vifited on his feftival. Over the well, is a large old tree; on the boughs of which, an infinite number of rags, of all colours, are tied, as memorials of their devotion to this water, which, they affirm, has performed feveral miraculous cures. Here are the magnifixent ruins of a fumptuous caftle, which confiftedof feveral buildings, and a large high tower^ all ftrongly erected on arched vaults, and built of very maffy ftones. Our modern buildings may boaft of regular columns of Greek and Roman architecture; but to raife fuch ponderous ftructures as thefe, would^ in the prefent age, require an infinite expence. This caftle is environed with a ftrong wall, flanked witli turrets; near it is a ftone bridge over the Funche-* on. From Glanworth we proceeded fouth, leaving Hag's Bed or Labacally, noticed in Journey HI. on the left, and John's Town, a fmall village on the fame fide of the road, and vifited Creg-caftle on the Black- water, near which is an handfome houfe and good im~ provements, where are fome fine paintings-, to the weft of which place is Ballyphilip, another decayed caftle. There are few foils where apples of various kinds thrive better than in this country i on the oppofite fide of the Blackwater is Bally-macallen, a good houfe, on the eaft of which about a mile is Fermoy^ akeady I Vifited 170 A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND, vifited in the third Journey. About half a mile to the weftof Bally-macal!en,alfo on the banks of the Black- water, is Bally-hooly-caftle and Wood, formerly a foreft of great extent on the Nagle mountains, which jange on the fouth fide of the Blackwater river. Here we again crofled that river to Rinny-caftle, now in ruins, formerly part of the poet Spenfer's cilate ; and half a mile further north, on the eaft fide of the Aw beg river, is Kil cumber, a good houfe and exten- five plantations of fpruce fir. From thence v^q pro- ceeded up the eafl: fide of the Awbeg to Daniers- town, 2nd Ballyvoher, two good houfes, and conti- nuing the fame route, pafiing Doneraile on the op- pofite fide of the river, and vifited Old Court about one mile north-weft from thence, and another mile north brought us to Kilcoleman, a ruined caftle of the old earls of Defmond, but more celebrated for having been the refidence of the immortal Spenfer, where he compofed his divine poem of the Fairy Queen; a work that is fo defervedly admired, and had fuch an extraordinary eiffecl upon the great fir Philip Sidney, that I cannot help repeating a parti- cular inltance of it. When fir Philip read a few ftanzas of the 9th canto, which was fent him by the author, he was fo tranfported with the difcovery of i9 uncommion a genius, that, turning to his fteward, he ordered him to give the perfon that brought it fifty pounds; but upon reading the next ftanza, he order- ed the money to be doubled ; and, upon reading ano- ther ftanza, increafed his bounty to two hundred pounds ; adding prithee be expeditious, or I fliall give him my whole eftate," When we arrived there my mind was filled with aa awful pleafure : that mountain, this river, thofe fields a^id meadows, and that town and bridge of Mallow, which were once familiar to his fight, feemed dignifiea to mine. But, upon enquiry, I found this eftate of Jvilcoleman, (v/hich name it bears) is nov/ no longer A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND* lyt in the family, but through the imprudence (and per- haps riot) of the grandfon, fell into the hands of ano- ther. I own, it grieves me much, that what had been acquired by the wit of the anceilor, fliould be loft by the folly of the defcendant. But this is no new thing, we have too many daily inftances to prove this vice pre- valent. The caftle is nowalmoft level with the ground, and was fituated on the north fide of a fine lake, in the midft of a vaft plain, terminated to the ealc by the county of Waterford-mountains j Ballyhov/ni hills to the north, or, as Spenfer terms thtm,^ the mountains of Mole ; Nagle-mountains to the fouth, and the mountains of Kerry to the v/eft. It command- ed a view of above half the breadth of Irelaiid, and muft have been, when the adjacent uplands were wooded, a moll: pleafant and romantic fituation j from whence, no doubt, Spenfer drew feveral parts of the fcenery of his poem. The Guardian pays a noble compliment to the memory of this poet, when h« fays, the generation of paRoral writers are very lonq lived, there having been (fays he) but four defceiUs. in above 20C0 years. Theocritus, who left his do- minion to Virgil, Virgil bequeathed his to his ioix Spenfer, v/ho was fucceeded by his eldeft born Philips. While he lived in Ireland,- he contracted a friendlhip with fir Walter Raleigh, v/ho was then a captain in this country, under the lord Grey, and had a large fliare of queen Elizabeth's bounty, out of Defmond's forfeited eftate, as well as our poet. The poem called Colin Clout's come Home again," in whicli fir Vv^alter is defcribed, under the name of the Shepherd of the Ocean, is a beautiful memorial of this friendlhip^' which took its rife from a likenefs of tafte in the polite arts ; and is thus agreeably defcribed by hini after the paftoral manner : • I fate, as was my trade. Under the foot of Mole, that mountain here ; I 2 Keep- 572 A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. Keeping my flieep amongft the cooly fhade Of the green alders, by the Mulla's fhore. There a ftrange fhepherd chaunc'd to find me out Whether aUured with my pipe's delight, Whofe pleafing found yfhrilled far about ; Or thither led by chance, I know not right: Whom when I afl^ed, from v/hat place he came? And how he hight, himfelf he did ycleep, T^he Shepherd of the Ocean byname, And faid he came far from the main-fea deep. The Mulla, noted for excellent trouts, and fine eels ; alfo falmon, and feme carp, perch, and tench, is the river Awbeg, which runs not far from Kilcole- man, and wafties Buttevant, Doiieraile, Caftle- town-Roch, &c. falling into the E'iackwater, near Bridge-town. To which ftream, and to the poet^ ;thofe lines of Mr. Pope may juftly be applied : O early loft, what tears the river filed ! • His drooping fwans on ev'ry note expire^ A^nd on his willov/s hung each mufe's lyre. Spenfer alfo celeba'ates the Mulla in his poem on Mutability, and his barony of Fermoy or Armoy, .under the name of Armilla. From Kilcoleman we turn about one mile and a half to the v/eft, and arrived at Buttevant, called in the ecclefiaftical books Bothon, by the Irifh and Spen- fer Kilnemullagh, formerly an ancient corpora- tion. There are ftill to be feen the remains of a wall, that furrounded the tov/n ; and they alfo fliew the traces of an outward wall, which enclofed the .other, and took up a confiderable circuit of ground. In this place are the remains of a furnptuous ruin of the ancient abbey of friars minors, founded by David de Barry, in the reign of king Edward I. who lies buried therein ^ he was lord juftice of Ireland, and his tomb ftill rerhains in the choir, oppoiite the great a'ltar. The walls of the choir, with the nave of the churchy \ A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND; rf^ church, and fcveral other buildings, remain entire; al fo the fteeple, which is an high fquare tower, ereflcd on a fine Gothic arch ; to the fouth, is St. Mary's chape], in which are feveral tombs of the ancient Irifh families, viz. the Barrys, the Magners, Fitz- Geralds, Frendergaftsy O Callaghans, Donegans, Meads, Dowlings, and Healys.- In this chapel arc the remains of an altar,- and two others, in the nave of the church on each fide of the choir; in which' arc other tombs of the Barrys,. Nagles, Lombards, and Supples ; alfo one of a later date, of Mr. Richard Morgan, who died October 15, 1748, in the icjlh year of his age: This man lived above feventy years at Caftle-pooky, near Doneraile; he had been clerk of the crown and peace for this county, in king James's time he never eat fait v/ith his meat, and died with no other complaint than the mere effe£l of old age. Befides the above-mentioneJ tombs, there are others of the Coghlans, Mac-AulifFs, and O-Kiefs. About twelve years ago, as they v/ere making a grave, the body of a woman was difcovered, who had been buried here twenty years before, quite whole and en- tire ; file died of the fmall-pox. The fkin appeared hard, dry, and very fliiF, of a dark brown colour; ihe was interred in a dry vault, betvv^een tv/o lime walls, through v/hich the wind and air had a free pafTage ; v/hich, probably, contributed to parch up the body,, and keep it fo long from corruption. On the north weft fide of the abbey flands a ruin- ed tower, faid to have been erected bv an earl of Def- mond, who retired here; they call it Cullen. On each hand of the weft- entrance of the abbey, are tw o huge piles of fkulls, which, fome fay, were brought hither after the battlcof Knocninofs, v/hich was fought but five miles from hence. Near this abbey ftands a part of another ruin, faid to have been a nunnery, dedicated tp St. Owen; or, according to others, to St. John Baptift. The name Buttevant, according to I 3 tra- 174 A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. tradition, takes its rife from a word given in battle, fougLt Jiear this place, by David de Barry, w^ho here overthrew the Mac-Cartys, and cried out, Boutez cn evaiit/' i, e. pufli forward,'^ which is the prefent inotto of the Earrymore family, who take title of vii'count from this place. In this town is a free icliGol kept in a caftle, built here by the Lombards, "i'o the eaft of the town ftand the ruins of the lord Barry's caftle, boldly and ftrongly ereclcd, on a rock over the river Awbeg; the infide of this building farms an octagon, and was no inconfiderable fortrefs, before the prefent art of befieging places was invent- ed. Within the court is now a good modern houfe, Somiewhat more to the eaft ftands the church, which is a miodern firufture ; but the ancient remains of two churches, one dedicated to St. Bridget, and the other to theVirgin Mary, are ftill vifible in the fame church- yard. This old town feems formerly to have been an aifemblage of church and religious houfes, which being diilolved, confequently went with them to xiiin. The nev/ turnpike road from Cork to Lime- rick runs through it. The fituation of it is fine, but the accommodations for travellers are as bad as can be met with. The habitations of the people are a colleftion of the vileft cribs, raifed of dry Hones, not fix feet high, interfperfed with the antique towers of battered caf- tles, and auguft remains of ruined monafteries, where fine paintings in frei'co are yet vifible on the walls, highly pleafing to thofe who have any tafte for the polite arts. Spenfer tells me, that Buttevant was demoJifhed in the reign of Edward IV. by Murrough O'Brien, who breaking forth from l^hom.ond, at the head of the difcontented Irifn, like a fudden tempeft, over-ran, and laid wafte Connaught, Munfter, and Leinfter; whilft O'Neil was doing the like in Ulfter. He foon created himJclf king, and was called king of alllre- land, A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. 175 land, as Bruce of Scotland had done in the reign of Edward II. From Buttevant wc proceeded about five miles^ north to Charleville, the principal place in the ba- rony of Orrery and Kilmore, fituate on the moft northern extremity of the county of Cork and the borders of Limerick, It was formerly called Rath- gogan, but was made a corporation at the expence and encouragement of Rx3ger,- the firll earl- of Orrery, lord prefident of Munlkr; who here kept his pre- fidential courts and- adorned this tov/n with a magni- ficent houfe, built in 1661 ; to which he added no- ble gardens, and a fine park. This houfe was burnt down, in the year 1690. In this town the lame earl of Orrery endowed a celebrated free-fchool, who, although he had great oijices and a plentiful eftate, yet his foul feemed mucli larger than his fortune : the fame nobleman procured the ereclion of one of the" charter fchools near this town, which is properly provided with necelTaries. In this .tow^n is a decent parifli church, ereifted by the lord Orrery before-mentioned, and a good horfe- barrack, on that part of the town v/hich ftands in the county of Limerick ; it is a confiderabie thorough-fare from Cork to Limerick, and is very Vv^ell watered ; but there being no turf bogs near the place firing is dear. The lands round Charleville are moftly under ftock for butter and beef, with very little corn ; the poorer inhabitants living on potatoes and milk. They uKinure nioftly with lime ; the foil being a light brovv^n earth, lying deep, on a lime-ftone bottom. Near this town formerly were plantations of all kind of fruit and foreft- trees, fold here at eafy rates, and fent into other parts of the kingdom, fit for cyder plan- tations. Broghill-cafile, which is fituated about a mile fouth-v/eft of it, was formerly belonging to the Fitzgeralds. About two miles fouth of Charleville rs Cail!c-dod, which alfo belonged to that family, now I 4 only J 76 A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. only a nicdern built good houfe. I hc caftle of Kil- bolane, about four miles fouth-weil of Broghill, be- longed to, the earls of Defmond ; but it is fald to have btien built foon after the coming over of Strongbow, by the. Cogens ; it is now a good houfe and irnprovemenr, and not fcr from it is the parifh church of Kilbolane^ in good repair. Caftle Ifliin, about a mile fouth weft of the former^ was another feat of the Fitzgeralds, and is fituatcd on the extremity of the county of Cork. About a mile fouth-v/cft fromCharleville isRingfort, a good houfe and plantation, which v/e paiTed in our return to Doneraile. A mile more to the fouth is Adill-town, a well planted improvement with a hand- fom-e canal. On this place formerly Hood a ftrong caftle, burnt by the beficgers in 1641. Thence we proceeded to Toonmore, now Gibbon's-grove, the houfe and plantation of Mr. Gibbon, three m^iles fouth of Charleville, famous for a celebrated cyder apple, called the Toonm.ore-apple. Some years ago there was difcovered, near this place, in the centre of a large ftone, the rcwei of a fpur, which is ftill kept, as a great curiofity, by Mr. Gibbon, and which is an evident proof of the growth of ftones. Not far hence is Cooline, feated on a rifmg ground, and beau- tified with fine plantations. Five miles fouth of Charlevllle, is Annagh, a pretty thriving village : This place, and a large tract of the adjacent lands, were, at a very great expence, re- claimed-from a deep and dangerous mcrafs, now pleaf- antly planted and v/ell improved ; large drains and canals being cut through the morafs, which empty themfelves into a branch of the river Awbeg. Here ftodd a ftrong calHc, that, in the wars of 1641, was for four years garrifoned, at the expence of fir Philip Perceval, bart. and, by its fitu?ction in the mldft of a bog, was deemed impregnable 5 but it v/as at laft takcn^ anno 1645, by treKicacry, and the v/h.ole gar-- A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. 177 rlfon put to the fword, in cold blood, by order of the lord Caftleconnel, who then commanded the Irlfh army, confifting of 5000 horfe and foot ; and who w^as a very inveterate enemy to fir Philip Perceval-, becaufe he had refufed to give him his daughter in marriage before the war. This caftle was demolifhed by the iate earl of Egmont, who drained the ground, built the village of Annagh, and eftablifhed the linen manufacture therein. Through this mora fa the road runs from Church-town to Charleville^. which, from the deepnefs of the foil, is in v/inter extremely bad. As lime-ilone abounds in all parts of this country^ tillage might be carried on at an inconfiderablc ex« pence, the foil being naturally very rich; cn the con- trary,, one fees very little corn here^ but herds of black, cattle, and ftieep, every v/here ; fo great is the en- couragement for beef and butter, in the markets of * Cork and Limerick, and fo fmall is that for corn ; yet there are large quantities of v/heat yearly imported into the city of Cork^^which is one of the mo ft plen- tiful places in the kingdom. ; Churchr-tov/n is a fmall village prettily planted ; in it are the ruins of the old church called Brulienny.. In the ninth of queen Anne, an act of: parliament was obtained, by the late earl of Egmora, - for re-- moving the f cite of this church.. The new churcli is a good buildings- in form of a croisj the chancel is paved with black and white marble ^ the produce of" this country ; in this chancel is a vault, where (everal of the houfe of Egmont are ifiterred. Burton, . near Church-town, was formerly. a noble .feat of' the Percevai family, . burned down in the late ■ v/ars, by the fame party of king James.l4 forces who burned Charleville. The plantations and improve- ments are very beautiful and extenfive. .. Here iiro ]cirr:;e. orchards and a noble park.. The walls of the houfe frill remain, v/hich fhev/ it to: have been a large elso-an.t. Kuiiding^ moftlyof hewn ftche. From Burton to the 178 A TOUR THROUGH IRELANIX new parlfh church, there Is an avenue, well planted. The manor of Burton is very large; the foil in this neighbourhood is exceeding good, being a light loamy earth, confiderably deep, over a lime-ftone bottom.. Near Burton is Egmont, the houfe of which is now taken down. It was finely fituated with a good park, well ftocked with deer. The country for fome miles is planted with afb^, elm, oak, and large quantities of fir, than which lafl no timber tree,, in the Vv'inter f^afon, affords more beauty to a landfcape. Round Egmont, the foil is a grey Cray,, refembling marie; but it does not fer- ment vvith acids, and yet. the rocks are all good lime- ftone. Walfh's-town, a mile north-eafl of Burton,,, is a good houfe, round which are good plantations;., here was formerly a caftle, built by the Barrys, feveral centuries ago; in the wars of "i 641, it was fortified; and garrifoned ; but was taken by the Irifli in 16459 , with the reft of his caftles. And more eaflrerly, on the river Awbeg, is Ballinguile, a good houfe, with, large orchards^ and numerous plantations ; this houie was built on the foundation of an ancient caftle of the StapletonSj ere6led foon after the reign of king John. From thence we pafTed again tteough that part of Buttevant on the weft fide of the river Awbeg, which river has accompanied us fome way on the left hand; to Ballybeg, which is but a fmall v/alk from Butte- vant. Here was a monaftery founded in 1 237. Some part of the building, particularly the fteeple, which was a firong ftru ^^33 > afterwards was rebuilt by the right honourable Arthur lord vifcount Doneraile, ann^. dom. 1726." This church is lightfome, and Very neatly pewed. To the north-eaft ftands a fm all grove; and near it are the ruins of the caftje v/here the above-mentioned fir William St. Leger kept his prefidency court, and had a fine houfe., and, noble park adjoining ; but the hpufe was burned down by the Irifh, ann. 1645. On the remains of -the caftle, a barrack is erefled for an horfe troop. This place being a borough,, has th^ privilege of returning two members to parlia- ment. In this place is a chtirity fchool, for 10 boys, which is: fupported by a bequeft *of the late lord Doneraile. There was formerly a good pottery of white ware in this town, the clay feeming to be very good J for from the fpecimen I faw, it appeared not unlike that of Carlingford, being a bluifli ftifF.clay, , There are, round the town, feveral quarries of beautiful variegate^ marbles. About a mile eail- of Dpneraile is Caftle-Saffron, fo called from the large quantities of that plant for- merly growing there y adjoining is a v/ell built houfe, agreeabiy fituatcd on. the banks of the river, which foririik A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. ig^ forms feveral pleafant cafcades in view of the houie, which.has' aregukr front of grey maFble, The caftle was boldly erected on the hanks of the ri\^r Awbeg, Inthehoufe is an original painting, well executed, of the poet Spenfer ; alfo a good picture of, the taking down from the croft^ and another of the holy family ; and feveral rooms in- this houfe are handfomely ftuc^ coed by the Franchinis, Italians,. On the other fide of the river is a pleafant park.. On the lands of Drumdeer, near Doneraile, is a red and grey marble quarry. Upon finking of this quarry, there was happily difcovered a chink in the earth, leading to- a fubterraneous pallage, not un* comm^on in limeflone foils, by which the adjacejit, grounds were drained of great quantities of water,^ rbat before were unprofitable bog and mountain, for the greatefi: part of the year. Here is alfo reel aim.ed a large tract of bog, on the fide of the river^ .which is now a rich and valuable piece of ground. , About a mile below CafHe Saffron, on .the Av/beg-^, is the ruined eaftle of Ballynemony, once belonging to the Nagles; lower down the river is Walls-town, a large building ^ and near it is the houfe of; Ma . Andrew Ruddock, with fome plantations. As the river winds towards the fouth, Ballyhemic, , with good improvements, fi:ands on the north fide; ne^ar this houfe, as they were digging the foundation of a barn^ feveral large gigantic human bones, and, in particular-^., a great fliull, were difcovered ; but by the negligence and incurioiity of the workmen, they v/ere throv/a into the rubbifh, and not preferved. From hence the river v^inds foutherly, through a deep romantic gHn, towards Cailletown Roche. The caille is built on a rock, over the Awbeg^. from whence there is a pafTage cut down to the river. Op- pofite to it is a field, v/hich they call the Camp field ; from whence a battery w'as ere£i:ed, by a party of the parliament fcTces, anno 1649, againfl the caftiej which was i84 A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. was then defended by the lady of lord Roche for fe- veral days, in a galiaAt manner: this lord refu fed a compofition for his eftate from Oliver Cromwell.. Gaftletovvn is but an inconfiderable villagey and- in it ttands the parifh church.. About one mile lower down the Awbeg, where it. empties itfelf into the Black water, we arrived at Bridge- town, where are the ruins of an abbey, built in 13 14,. oppofite the great altar of which are the remaim of the tomb of the founder, Alexander Htz-hugL^ i^oche. It was moft pleafantly fituated,. at the very confluence of the two rivers, which glide through a deep rocky glin, oppofite to the building. Here was formerly a bridge over both rivers. From thence we proceeded to theweftward, on the banks of the Black- water, in fight of Carrignaconny,. and Ballymacboy^ two good feats on the fouth fide of the fame river and further off the Nagle mountains, at about a mile and a half from Bridgetown, , is the ruined. church of. Monanim^y, with a large chancel. Adjacent to it is a caftle, that^. in-, former times, was a preceptory be-- longing to the knights of St. John of Jerufalem;, round the caftle are traces of very large buildings^ the whole auguftiy fituated on an high bank, over the Blackwater, As there is no other mention of this houfe, than in the king's quit-rent books^ the founder and time of the foundation is uncertain.. On the- oppofite fide of the river are large rocks of limeftonej-. v/herein are feveral fubterraneous caverns. A little beyond Monanimy is Ballygriffin,.. a pretty feat, and about a mile further on the Blackwater, is Cariglemleary,,. a good houfe^, boldly fituated on a high rock over the river., about a mile to the north .of which is Gaftle-Kiiiin,. a good feat,.two- miles to the ^ weft of which is the Gaftle of Cahirdowgan, both of; which formerly belonged to the Roches, The lands in this trait are but indifferent, notwithftanding it is all a liraellonc bcttorn^ the fields are full of low f^^i^'^e, , A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND, 1^5 little or very poor pafture, being a fhallow foil of clay mixed with fand. From Caftle Cahirdowgan we proceeded diredly fouth about three miles, and arrived at Mallow. This town was once reckoned to be the beft village in Ire- land, and though not incorporated till anno 1688, it has the privilege of fending two burgeiTes to parlia- ment. It is pleafantly fituated on the north bank of the Blackwater, over which there is an excellent ftone bridge, whereby it is made a great thoroughfare. Not far from the caftle is a fine fpring, of a mode- rately tepid water, which burfts out of the bottom of a great iimeftone rock, and approaches the neareft, in all its qualities^ to the Hot Well waters of Briftol, of any that has been difcovered in this kingdom. Here is generally a refort of good company during the fummer months, both for pleafure, and the be- nefit of drinking the waters. Near the fpav/ there are pleafant walks, agreeably planted, and on each fide are canals and cafcades, for the amufement and exercife of the company, who have mufic on thefe walks. There is alfo a long room, where affemblies are held for dancing, card-playing, &c. Adjoining to the well, is a kind of grotto. Here v/ere, formerly^ two caftles 3 one on the north fide of the town, called the Short Caftle ; and the other on the fouth end, being a noble pile of building, ere6ted by the earls of Defmond) which was ruined in the rebellion of 1 641. The tov/n being well fituated, the country about it pleafant, and the company agreeable, it hath, ob- tained, among fome, the name of the Irifti Bath. Here is a well-built church, alfo a market houfe, and a barrack for a troop of horfe. The principal feats near Mallow are, Anabell, to the N. W. of the town; and Quarter- town,, with good plantations on the fouth fide of the Blackwater. At. i86 A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. At Carrigoon, near Mallow, was a garrifon for king James, in the late wars,, the Blackwater being the boundary of theEnglifliand Irifh quarters. On the oppofite fide of the river is Ballygarret, a good houfe ; and fomewhat further eafl is Rockforreft, a pleafant feat, on an elevated fitaation, commanding an exten- five profpe6l of the country, and river in front, and Bearforeil: to the fouth. Mount-north, within three miles of Mallow, is an elegant feat; the houfe is a fquare building, with two wings; there are fine plantations to the north of afli, oak, and fir, with large groves, beautiful avenues, and pleafant gardens; fronting the houfe is a noble canal, well flocked with fifli. The adjacent domain is alfo finely planted, and well laid out, into beautiful meadows and pafture grounds. North-eaft of this place is Drumdowne, a ruined caftle of the Barrys, F rom this part of tlie country, on both fides the river Blackv/ater, down to Lifmore, there are feveral pleafant feats,, and large plantations of cyder fruit ; and from them confiderable profits arife to the in^ dullrious planter. From Mallow, up the Blackwater, to the weft- ward, the fhores are compofed of limeftone pebbles, blackfiint, red marble, and fome ironftone;. in heavy rains the river oyerflows great tracts of land, which are moftly laid out for meadows,,. and produce abun*- dance of hay.. A road goes from Mallow to Cork,, which is diftant only thirteen miles, but it abounds with little natural or artificial decoration,. except in the neighbourhood of a poor village, called Tov/n-michell, where the ruins of the fpacious abbey of Mournc in a valleys and of a proud little caftle on. the brow of a hill, are ftilf to be fecn. There fome venerable oaks ftretch their long arms acrofs the road, and from thence wind down a romantic glin, in view of a new houfe. of a. good appearance* From A TOUR THROUGH IltELAND. 1^7 From Mallow we made an excurfion north-weil:, leaving mount North, already mentioned, on our left hand, and proceeded one mile further to Ballyclough, a pretty village. A caftle was built here, the remains of which are ftill to be feen, built by the Barrys. A few years fince a chalybeate fpaw near this place was in good repute, but it is nov/ neglefted, and over- flown by a neighbouring brook. About a mile fur- ther weft is BlolTom-fortj a good houfe with improve* nients. About a mile more weft, is the caftle of Loghort^ built in king John's reign. This caftle remained, for many years, a melancholy proof of the devaftation of the civil wars ; but it has been, of late, repaired by the earl of Egmont. It is eighty feet high, the walls are ten feet thick, and moated round Vvith a deep trench, which is pafled by a draw-bridge. In one of the upper chambers is an handfome armory for ico horfe, well furniftied with broad-fwords, bayonets^ piftols, carbines, &c. Here is alfo a good library, and other apartments; and from the top of this tow- er is a noble profpe£l of a great tradl of country. Proceeding further weft, and on the right hand about two miles, is Caftle-corlth, or Caftlc-cor^ a handfome houfe fronted with hewn ftone, and flanked at each angle with turrets; and near it is a pleafant park where are the remains of a fortification, in ths midft of which ftood a caftle; and to the weft are the ruins of the parifli church of Kilbrln. Other places of note in this neighbourhood are Aifolas, two miles further weft. A little fouth of Caftk-cor is Ballyheen and Rockfield, two good feats, and a little further fouth is Knockninofs, remarkable for the de- feat of the Irifli in November 1647, whereon depended the fate of this province. A little further weft is Caftle-manger. From thence it is about three miles weftward, and to Kanturk, anciently Keantuirk, i. e. a boar's head, probably, fropa one of thofe aninials having iS8 A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. having been flain here, by fome Irifh chief, in for- nier times. It formerly belonged to a branch of the Mac-Cartys, called Mac-Donough, who forfeited this eftate for aiding the rebels in 1641. In queen Elizabeth's time they erected a moft mag- nihcent pile near this place, the walls of which re- main entire. It was a parallelogram, being 120 feet in length by 80 in breadth, flanked with four fquare buildings. This ftru£ture was four ftories high, and the flankers five ; all the v/indow frames, coignes,. beltings and battlements, were of hewn ftcne ; and the v/hole made a mofl: grand and regular appearance. This caftle was reprefented to queen Elizabeth as a place of very dangerous importance to belong to a private fubje£t, and was faid to have been no lefs than a ftrong and regular fortrefs ; upon which the lords of the council of England tranfmitted an order hither, to have the work flopped, fo that the finifliing of this noble building was prevented, which was one of the fineflr jR:ru£lures, eredled by any Irifh family,, that I have feen, and very far from being capable ta be made any ufe of, fo as to annoy the governmentv Thus it remains flijl in the fame condition, the walls having braved all the injuries of time. The town of Kanturk is in a thriving condition, feveral well built houfes having been eredled in it. Here is a neat mar^ ket-houfe, but no church nearer than Newmarket, three miles diftant. It is tolerably M^^ell peopled, by perfons mofl:ly employed in the worfted manufa£lure. At Curragh, a little to the north, of Kanturk, was a caftle of the Mac-Cartys ; and near it is a moft excel- lent chalybeate water. The foil in this neighbourhood is a whitifti clay ; in fome places it is yellow, brown, and very deep, producing grafs in plenty, but very little tillage, except fome barley ,„ oats, and potatoes. Five meafured Enolifh miles weft of Kanturk is Newmarket, the laft place of any note in the north weft paxt of the county. It h adorned with a ftately koufe^ A TOUR THROUGH ICELAND. 189 houfe, compofed of two regular fronts of hewn ftonc, which ftands on the fouth eaft fide of the town. Newmarket confifts of one reo-ular ftreet. and is a confiderable thoroughfare into the county of Kerry. In it are fome well looking houfes, and a decent pariih church. To the weft of this place, on the left hand of the road to Blackwater-bridge, ftands Caftle-Mac- Awliff, formerly the chief feat of that fept ; and there is alfo another of their caftles at Carigacufcin, ' a mile north eaft of Newmarket. From thence we return- ed to Kanturk. The caftle of Dromagh ftands about three miles fouth-weft of Kanturk; it was built by the O-Kiefs, and was their chief feat ; it is v/ell walled, and flanked with four turrets. Near this place a vein of coal has been difcovered, and confiderable quantities have been railed ; they are not altogether as bright as the Kil- kenny coal, but make a lafting fire, with little or no fmoak. They have very good culm, which covers the large coal, ufeful in forges, and burning lime. The lands hereabouts are coarfe, and afford little tillage. Weft of Dromagh is the parifh of Cullen, and near the church are fome ruins, faid to have been an ancient nunnery, not mentioned in any record. In this parifii are fymptoms of the fame coal vein ; and in it is the ruined caftle of Du Aragil, built by the O-Kiefs. Near the church of Nohavel, which ftands on the Blackwater, on the verge of this country, is the ftump of around tower, which, with the church, are dedicated to St. Finian, whofe feftival is here cele- brated on the 13th of December. Near the Blackwater at Drumfhicane is a good houfe. Drumfliicane was a fortified caftle of the O- Kiefs, with turrets, and an high fquare tov/er in the centre, all lately demoliflied. The walls were built of flat ftones or flags^ exceedingly well temented, 190 A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. On the fouth fide of the Blackwater, in the parifli of Clonmene, is a range of mountains, called St. Hillary's, from whence feveral rapid rivulets fall into the Blackwater. Clonmene has a good houfe near the parifli church ; and more call: are the remains of the caftle of Clonmene, ruined in the wars of 1641. At Clonmene was anciently, according to Colgan, a monaftery of Auftin friars. The mountains here, that were formerly covered with wood, are now generally reclaimed ; but where the land was bare of trees, it is for the moft part becomxe boggy and unprofitable. Be- neath the turfy fod, is a blueifti, hard, cold gravel, fcarce to be penetrated v/ithout much labour. Not far from Clonmene is the hill called Knockniclalhy, cele- brated for a defeat given to Donough, then lord Muf-» kery, who, with 4000 Irifli, was marching to raife the fiege of Limerick, by the lord Broghill, with lOOO Er^glifli, in July 1651. On the north fide of the river Blackwater are feve- ral feats, particularly Gurteen-bagh and Ballyraftin, both of which have good improvements, as is alfo Drumraftill, lower down the river; above which ftands Pall ice, a good houfe and plantation. Two miles lower dov/n, near the river, is Longfield, a pleafant fituation, commanding a profpecSl of the north fide of the Blackwater, and a confiderable way up and down that river, alfo Sommerville, a neat lodge lower down. Theparifhof Kilfhanicklies on the fouth fide of the Blackwater ; in it are feveral good feats. To the weft of the parifii is Lombard's town, an houfe lately built, with improvements. More eaft, near the parifh church, is Newburry ; the church of Kilfhanick ftands near* this, kept in good repair. The caftle of Drumaneen itands boldly on the Blackv/ater. About the reign of ki^ig James L they ere£led a very ftately houfe on the foundation of the caftle, which was ruined in the late wars. The caftle bawn is large, and well en- clofcd with an high ftone wall, flanked v/ith round towers i A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. igi Here half an acre's corn, is half a fheaf, n Here-hills, with naked heads, the tempeft meet, Rocks at their fides, and torrents at their feet. Or lazy lakes, unconfcious of a flood, Whofe dull brown naiads ever fleep in mud. Yet here content can dwell. — Farnel. From thence we crofl^ed Four- mile-water to Dun- beacon caftle, which ftands at the bottom of the bay, about a mile fouth of Cool-long, and three to Kil- coe, at the head of the bay of Roaring-water, where alfo ftands Ballydehab village. This whole penin- fula is called Ivaugh. We paffed down the fide ot this peninfula to Rofbrin caftle, a ftately ruin, erected boldly on a rock, which hangs over the ocean. I'he proprietor of this caftle, in queen Elizabeth's time turned pirate, which occafioned its demolition, and the weft fide is battered to the ground. Two miles more 212 A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. more fouth-weft are the ruins of Ardintenant caftle, feated near the eaft point of Skull harbour. Skull ^ one mile weft from thence, is but a fmail inlignificant village, having few buildings befides the church and parfonage houfe. To the north of it ftands an high conical hill, called Mount Gabriel ; on the top of it is a remarkable deep lough, v/hich is but a fetv yards over ; it has been founded from the north-eaft with an hundred fathom line ; although the lead flop- ped, yet the hole was deeper. The water oozes out of the mountain to the north weft 3 and this cone is above three hundred yards higher than the level of the fea ; from it is a noble profpe6t of vaft extent, over a rude uncultivated country, from the Mizen-head to Rofs, with an infinite number of iflands, bays, creeks and harbours. On returning from this mountain, juftly reckoricd the fteepeft of its length in Ireland, towards the coaft, and paffing by Skull, v/e proceeded v/eft to Leamcon, a pretty feat, near a good harbour, between Long Ifland and the peninfula. Near it aretv/o caftles in ruins, one of which is called Black caftle, built on an ifland, to v/hich is a very narrow paffage eafdy defended ; and more v/eft, is the caftle of Bally- Defmond, now called Bally-Divilin, boldly erefted on a rock projefting over the fea. More v/efterly ftands Crookhaven, an inconfiderable fifhing town, near an excellent harbour, and one of the beft out- lets in Europe for vefiels to fail to any place whatever. The lands about it are exceeding rocky and barren. Near it are the ruins of Caftle Moghan. The ex- treme point of this traft is Bally-Vogy-head, be- tv/een which and the oppofite cape, called Mizen- head, is a great bay, and another between that and Three-Caftle-head, fo called from three fquare towers built on it. From thence we travelled up the weftern fide of this peninfula to Dunmanus caftle, from whence the bay on the weftern fide has its name, which caftle A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. 213 caftle was formely fortified with walls and flankers, now in ruins. From thence we turned eaftward to Kilcoe, at the head of Roaring-water bay, and from thence to Affadown on the eaft fide of Roaring-water river; this is an agreeable feat, with good improve- ments. Near it, on a rifmg ground, is a round tower; on its top is a lanthorn, from thence is a profpecl of the adjacent coafts and iflands, with the ruins of fevcral caftles. About a mile fouth from thence is Whitehall, a good houfe, pleafantly fituated on an arm of the fea. To the weft is Roaring-river bay. Proceeding north-eaft about tv/o miles, we paiTed Abbey-fhrory, formerly a religious houfe, but now a parifh-church in ruins. In it are feveral old tombs. About half a mile further eaft is Skibbereen, anciently called Stapletown ; it was formerly a part of the domain of the caftle of Gortnaclough ; this caftle has been fometime entirely demoliflied; as is alfo Littertinlis, another caftle eaft of this place. Skibbereen is a fniall market town, where the colleftor, furveyor, and other officers of the port of Baltimore refidc. On the weft fide of the river is a new ere£led church, and in the town, a decent market-houfe. The river Hen runs through the place, over which there is a ftone bridge, but fo low as to be fometimes over- flown by floods; boats, at high water, row down to Baltimore. The clothing trade is followed in this place; they have alfo fom.e fiiare of the linen manu- faftory, particularly for ftrip'd linens and handker- chiefs, and a good weekly market: near the town the lands are well cultivated, afibrding good quanti- ties of corn and flax. They manure with fea fan d 5 the foil being a grey clay, and in fome places red. With a flaty bottom. They have no limeftone nearer than Mufkery. About five miles fouth is Baltimore, v/hich we vifited. It v/as formerly called Dunafliad, an anci- ent 214 A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. ent corporation, and an excellent harbour; the fouth- weft of which is formed by the ifland Sherkin, It is now a poor decayed fifhing-town, with not one tole- rable houfe in it. Indeed there are the ruins of an ancient caftle, and it has ftill the privilege of fending two members to parliament, though it confifts but of a few cabins. The church is fmall, and fituated low, at a fmall diftance from the town. From thence we procured a boat, vifited the iflands hereabouts, the firft of which is the ifland of Cape Clear, the moft fouthern land in Ireland. It is a parifh of it- felf; in the ecclefiaftical books, it is called Infula Sanfta Clara; and, in the old Irifh MSS. Inifli Damhiy. 7'he north fide bears potatoes, barley, and a little wheats and the fouth is moftly a craggy rock. On the north-weft point ftand the ruins of a caftle, built on a rock in the fea, called Dunanore, i. e. the Golden-fort. There is a very narrow paf<- fage, about a yard broad, and ten yards in length, to this caftle; this path is high and fteep on both fides, the fea, on either hand, being very deep, fo that few but perfons well ufed to it will venture to walk it over ; when I got up to the top of this caftle, and faw the ocean roaring on all fides of the rock, I wifhed heartily to be again on the main land. In this ifland there are about 400 families, who have a good quantity of fheep and cows, fome fwine and horfes, but all their cattle are very fmall. The ifland is fcarce able to fupport its inhabitants, who are often obliged to have provifions from the fhore ; and in the moft plentiful years, they never fend any to market. Towards the middle of the ifland is their chapel, a large bui^lding, but as deftitute of any ornament as a barn. Near it is the prieft's houfe, who is temporal, as well as fpiritual, judge in his parifti, and is abfolute governor of the ifland; but perhaps as poor a one as any in chriftendom. A little to the eaft of the caftle, is a cove, called Tra Kieran > A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. 215 Kieran; i. e. St. Kieran's ftrand, on which Is a pil- lar ftone, with a crofs, rudely cut towa'rds the top, that, they fay, was the workmanfliip of St. Kieran; and near it ftand the walls of a ruined church, de- dicated to the fame faint. This ftone they hold in great veneration, and aflemble round it every fifth of March, on which day they celebrate the feftival of their patron. On the fouth-weft fide of the ifland is a creek, in which a large vefTel may be favcd upon occafion; and there is a fmallcr one on the north fide, oppofite to it, only fit for boats. Between thefe creeks, is a narrow ifthmus, about a quarter of a mile broad, with hills to the eaft and weft, which, from the fea, makes the ifland feem to be divided. In the fouth cove, there are from feven fathom to eighteen feet water, where a very rich veflel, fome years ago, was faved, being in the greateft diftrefs, having feveral feet water in her hold ; flie came in by the light of a candle from a cabin in the ifland, and when day ap- peared, the crew found themfelves in a fnug bafon, but in what part of the world they did not know, being direftly come from.'the Weit-Indies. Towards the weft end of the ifland, is a frefh -water lough, abounding with a black kind of worm, about two inches long^ fliaped like a leech, foft, and eafily breaking to the touch. The water of this lake is of a mofl: faponaceous abfterfive quality ; it very readily diflTolves fosp ; and the inhabitants affirm, that if a cafk, in which train oil had been kept, was to be laid for a few days in this lough, it would be taken out fweet and clean. The inhabitants here are generally a very fimple honeft people, thieving being a vice little known among them. If a perfon be found guilty of a crime, he is direftly banifhed to the continent, which is the greateft punilhment they can infli£l on the criminal, who endeavours all he can to remain on the ifland. They have no liquor for their ordinary drink, except water or milk ; yet very few houfes are v/ithout 2i6 A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. without a bottle of rum or brandy, which they will g^^neroufly ofter to a ftranger. The houfes are built of ftone, rnoftly thatched with potatoe ftalks ; and thefe artfully kept down by nets, which cover the whole roof. Thefe nets are made of ropes of ftraw, the meflies not quite a foot fquare ; to the ends of thefe ftones are tied, which hanging down round the eves, form no difagreeable fight. There are feveral villages and hamlets upon the ifland. They have thirty or forty boats belonging to the place, with which they take confiderable quantities of iifli ; and by this means they are enabled to pay their rent. The principal fifh taken here, are cod, hake, ling^ mackarel, &c. Hake is their llaple fifh, which they fait and dry. Many of the rocks of this ifland are compofed of an excellent white free-ftone, refembling Portland flone ; they have alfo a black kind, proper for flags and hcarth-ftones, v/hich they carry, by fea, to Cork ; and round the ifland are plenty of crabs and lobfl:ers. Adjoining to Cape Clear, between it and the main land, is the ifland of Inifiiircan. In this ifland flood the caftle of Dunelong, over-againft that of Dunaftiad, which cafliles defended the mouth of Baltimore har- bour. Near it are the remains of a barrack ; and there are fome old pieces of iron ordnance flill lying among , the rocks. Within the walls of the fort is a good houfe. About a mile to the fouth are the re- mains of an antient abbey, founded anno 1460. The fteeple is a low fquare tower, from whence runs the nave of the church, with an arcaded wing to the fouth. Some parts of the building are flated, having been uled for fifh-houfes, v^^hen the pilchards frequent- ed this coaft. This ifland has very good land in it, and its foil is vafdy preferable to that of Cape Clear. In the bay of Baltimore, are feveral iflands, as Spa- nifn-ifland j alfo the ifland of Dunegal, a large fruit- ful fpotj and higher up is another, called Clare-ifland. Midway A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND; 217 'Midway north-weft between Cape Clear and the main, arc three iflands called the Calves ; the weft Calf contains forty four acres. Carty's ifland lies between thefc and the fhoce, and is larger than any of the Calves. Tothenorth-wcftof Inifhircan Ifle, lies Hare- iHand^ a large fruitful fpot, and near it are four fmall iflands, called the Schemes ; alfo along the coaft, in the fol- ' lowing order, from eaft to weft, are Horfe-ifland. containing one hundred acres; Caftle-ifland, con- taining 1 19 acres ; Long-illand, containing 316 acres^ and weft of all thefe is a fmali fpot, called Goat- ifland. All thefe iflands together, with the adjacent coaft, produce large crops of fine Englifh barley. On our return to Baltimore, we proceeded three miles north-eaft, where the fea enters a narrow creek, and forms a fait water lake, called Lough-hyne. This lake being furrounded with high hills, has a moft ro- mantic appearance; it is about two miles in circum- ference; and in^-the midft of it is a fmall ifland, on which ftands the ruins of an old caftle, built by the O-Drifcols. This lake abounds with various kinds of fea-fifh, as alfo falmon and white trout. Here are excellent lobfters, crabs, efcalops, and fmall deep oyfters. At half ebb, this water empties itfelf into the bay of Barloge, in a kind of w^ater-fall, like the river Thames, at London Bridge, Seals alfo breed in this lake* On one fide of the Lough, is an hill called Knock- owne, remarkable for a very fine echo; and a little to the weft of it is the Caftle of Ardagh. From thence v/e travelled north-eaft about foxir miles to Caftletown, or Caftle-Townfend, where is a new- erefted caftle of fome ftrength, fituated on the fide of a declivity, where boats may land at the door. Off this bay is a good fifhery, and in it are excellent oyfters, the water being eight fathom deep in moft places. Caftletown is a fmall but v/eil-looking vil- . 21 8 A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND^ lage. An high promontory, called the Toe-head, jtands a little to the weftward of Caftlehaven, due fouth of which, in the ocean, are the high fteep rocks called the Stags, which being always to be leen, are eafily avoided. On the weftern fide of the haven is Horfe-ifland, which produces a wonderful fort of herbage, that re- covers and fattens difeafed horfes to admiration. From Caftle-Townfend we went to Rahine-caftle, which is fituated at the head of the haven on the eaftern bank. In the walls are feveral cannon-balls, which were fliot at it from fome veflfels in the har- bour. The eaftern point of this harbour is called Galleon Point, on which are the remains of an in- trenchment caft up by the Spaniards, and the ovens ufed by them are alfo ftill to be feen. From thence it is about a mile to Miros, called in Irifli Garry, or the Garden, from its being better land than the reft .©f this barony. It is on the weft fide of Glandore harbour. In Miros parifti was anciently an abbey called San6lo Mauro. At a place called Carigiliky, in this parifti, the foundation of cxrcnfive ruins were difcovered, together with a large cemetery, with great quantities of human bones; it was probably the fite of the abbey de Sandlo Mauro, which fome falfely place at Abbey-mahon, near Timoleague. The houfe of abbey Shrowry was a cell to this; the parifti church fiands in ruins on the coaft, and oppofite to it, in a fmall ifland called Arahas, is a ruined chapel. Near Glandore harbour is another ifland, called the S quince. The weft fide of this parifli is bounded by the bay of Caftlehaven, formerly called Glanbarahane, and by the Spaniards, Porto Caftello; and the eaft fide by Glandore harbour, which, though fmall, is an exceeding good one; and, near it is a caftfe of the fame name. At the upper end of this harbour is a deep and dangerous glin, called the Leap; ^ en A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. 219 on both fides of which Is the high road froin Rofs to the other parts of Weft Carbery. The road crofles this glin, which is here as fteep as a flight of ftairs, fo that few horfes, but thofe who are well ufed to it, attempt it with courage. To the weft of this precipice is an handfome feat, called Brede, with large plantations. At Keamore, above the Leap, is a very extenfiv^e profpeft of a great part of the fea coaft, with the har~ hours of Glandore and Caftlehaven. On the weft end of Glandore bayj not far from the Leap, by the working of the fea, a large part of the hill fell down, on which grew feveraL trees ; tliis piece formed an ifland of about tv/enty yards in cir- . camference, and th-: trees continued to grow ^ hut it is nowalmoft quite wafhed away. From Skibberecn 10 the Leap in a direct line is only four miles, between which are many loughs ftored with trout and eels, which the L ifh call aghills ; and fome have fmall floating Ifiands, which fwim from one fide to the other : 1 have feen fome of them above ten yards broad ; they are ufually compofed, at fir ft, ^ of only weeds, and fedgy long grafs, which gathering ^ together, by degrees, being blown oft^ the adjacent grounds in September, form a kind of a tufTock, and increafe every year, by the addition of flime and other matter, that they collect in floating about the fides and edges of the lakes. In the parifh of Kil- macabea is a lake called Loughdrine, which the couiitry people believe to be miraculous; and fay, that, on a certain day of the year, all the iflands in it change places, and Ihift from one fide to the other at which time vaft numbers of thcfe ignorant people aifemble at this lough, where they ereci booths, and fcaft, every one bringing bits of bread, meal, &c. to feed the fifh in the lake. In the fame parifh is another, called Ballinlough, ftored with a fine large red trout] on an hill to the L 2 caft 220 A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. eaft fide of it, is an ancient Danifli intrenchment, faid to have a fiibterraneous paffage down to the lake. In this and other loughs-, are feveral frcfli water wrinkles, exa£lly refembling thofe on the fea fhore; and as mufcles and other kinds of. fea (hell fifti are often found in frefli water, I do not wonder that we often difcover varieties of ftiells in places remote from the ocean. From the Leap it is four miles to Rofs,or Rofs-Car- bery, formerly called Rofs-Alithri, i. e, the field of pilgrimage. Hanmer, in his Chronicle, p. 53, fays, this town was walled about, by a lady of that coun- try y but by the wars of the Irifli fepts, particularly the Cartys, Drifcols, &c. the foundations could fcarce be traced. He adds, that there was in it anciently a famous univerfity, whereto reforted all the fouth-weft part of Ireland, for learning fake.'" It is now a fmall market town, and a bifliop's fee. The cathedral is fuppofed to have been founded by Saint Fachnan, in the 6th century, as well as an abbey, the ruins of which yet remain. The prefent ca- thedral is a fmall neat Gothic ftru£lure, the choir of v/hich is more modern; the ftalls, newly erected, arje neat and well difpofed. In the fouth wing is a handfome chapter room. Here is a fmall fquare ileeple^ battlemented on the top. The church-yard is wafhed by an arm of the fea, that flows up to the town, and is prettily planted with trees. The har- bour was formerly, according to Camden, navigable for fhips, but it was in his time quite choaked up with fand ; and it is now fo fhallow that no velfel can come up to the town, in which is a good foot bar- rack, and a fmall market houfe, with fome other good houfes. Near the cathedral, a few years fmce, were dif- covered feveral fubterraneous chambers. Abaut a mile weft of Rofs are two remarkable great holes in th> grouud, 80 yards deep, and each about 300 yards from.. A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. 221 from the clifFs, in both which the fea flows by fuh- terraneous paffages ; thefe holes are called E. and W. PouIadufF; one is on the lands of Downeenj and the other on Tralong. A mile north-weft of Rofs ftands BandufF, now Caftle-Salem, a ftrong romantic building. About a mile v/eft of Rofs runs the river Rory ; near it, at Bally venine, (land the ruins of the largeft houfe in Carbery, erefted by fir Walter Coppinger, who alfo defigned to buiid a market-town here, but v/as hindered by the rebellion of 1 641, in which wars this houfe was deftroyed. The foil between this and Rofs is a light grey clay, mixed with fand ; their manure is fea land, which affords them plenty of corn, potatoes, and fome fiax. About three niiles fouth-eaft from Rofs is Caftle Freke, a pleafant feat, that commands an extenfive view of the ocean and coaft, to the weft. Adjacent to it is a large park, and alfo a fine frefti-water lake, ftored with pike, over which is an agreeable terrace. To the eaft of it is Kilkerin-houfe, where is alfo another frefh- water lake, of fifty two acres, ftored with fifli. At the extreme fouth point of land hereabout, is Dundede, a caftle on a very fmall ifland, to which there is a narrow paflage from the main, being equal- ly the work of nature and art. It is commonly, by feamen, called the Galley-head, and is fometimes fatal- ly miftaken by them for the Old head of Kingfale, when the light of the latter is not feen. This promon- tory, like that of Kingfale, ftretches itfelf a good way into the ocean, and is alfo of a confiderable height; there are feveral caverns form*ed at its bafc, by the working of the waves. From thence we went to Clognakilty, five miles from Rofs, where we made no ftay, but proceeded four miles further eaftward to Timoleague, i. e. Tee- mologa, the refideace of Saint Mologa. This vil- L 3 lage 222 A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. lage is fituated on an arm of the ocean, which flows in between the hills, whofe feet it wafhes. From Court Mac Sherry (the harbour's month) to Timo- league, is two miles. This harbour was formerly navigable, but is now quite obftru6led with fand ; fo that only fmall (loops and boats can come to Timo- league, and fmaller fand veflels about a mile above it, . A fmall river difcharges itfelf here, called the Ari- gideen, i. e. the little filver ftream ; it runs at the foot of an hill, covered with an oak wood, for a mile before it reaches this town, in a ferpentine cur- rent. At its entrance into the town it waflies the walls of a caflle, which a few years ago was fitted up, and fome looms ereded in it, for linen weavers. The Arigideen, in its courfc, next touches the verge of the' church-yard, which commands a profpc<5l down to the harbour's mouth; and the other fide is bounded by a circular meadow lately reclaimed from the river. It next glides by the wails of an ancient abbey, founded in the beginning of the 14th cen- tur3^ The building (though not roofed) is entire, confifling of a large choir, v/ith an ifie formed by nrcades on the fouth, which lead to a lateral wing. There is an handfom.e fquare Gothic tower, about feventy feet high, between the choir and the aile ; and on one fide of the fame aile, is a fquare cloifter ar- caded, with a platform in the middle ; this leads to 'Several large rooms, one whereof is faid to have been a chapel, another the chapter room, a third the re- fecSlory, befides a fpacious apartment for the guardian of the houfe .; there v/as alfo an hall, donnitory, kit- chen, cellars, &c. altogether compofing a large pile of building. Here are feveral tombs of the Irife fa- milies. It is fituated between the cafi:le and abbey, under an hill, which fnelters it from weft and north- erly winds. Here is a regular fireet on one f|de of it, being new built for the accomm.odation of linen weavers. In it are fome good flate-houfes, a market- houfe. A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. 223 houfe, and bleach-yard; it has alfo four fairs in the year, but no regular market. Near it is a well, dedi- cated to the Virgin Mary, much frequented on the 8th of September, by numbers of the Irifli, who imagine it to cure feveral maladies. To the fouth-wefl: of the town, on a rifmg ground, is Barry's-Hall, a modern built feat, which has a profpe£t of part of the arm of the fea, which comes up to the foot of the hill on which it ftands, form- ingan handfonie bafon, interfperfed with fmall iflandsr. On the oppofite fide of the river is Marybox^ough, an handfome houfe built not many years fince, oil a rifing hill, commanding a view of the bay and river ; beyond it, on the fame fide, is Burren-caftle, and near it the church of Rathclarin. On the weftern fide of the river, as you go down the bay of Court Mac Sherry, is a good houfe in a grove of trees; and about half way down, clofe to the fhore, are feen the ruins of Abbey-Mahon, The walls of the church are {landing, and a houfe is built on part of the ruins, which are encompafled with a grove. Clofe to the harbour's mouth is Court Mac Sherry: This feat lies under an hill, planted with trees, that (helter it from the fea winds, and has the profpe£l of the harbour up to Timoleague. The coaft, for half a mile inwards from this place, forms a femi-circle, where are fome good houfes, and trees planted on a natural terrace above the v/ater, which, with Court Mac Sherry, being encompalfed with walls and turrets, makes an handfome appearance at a diftance. The bay affords plenty of various kinds of fea fifh ; formerly pilchards were taken in it; and on the fhore are feveral buildings, called, in this country, fifli-palaces, for curing that fifh. Plaice are fo good here, that, when in feafon, many prefer them to turbot, and fome are near as large. Confiderable L 4 draughts 224. A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. draughts of falmon Jiave been alfo taken in this bay. On both fides are prodigious high cliffs, to- wards the entrance of this bay, where eagles, hav/ks, and herons, build their nefts. On the oppofite fide of the river, from Court Mac Sherry, is the decay- ed caftle of Coolniain. At the fouth-weft extremity of this parifh is a pe- ni.nfulaof about five acres, to which is a very narrov/ pafiage ; and on this peninfula are the ruins of an old caftle, defended by fquare bafiions, to prevent people from landing. The ifland is a rock, thinly covered with earth; but is eonftantly mowed every year, though never known to be manured. This was a place v/here the Irifh formerly fecured thejr cattle by night; there are many fuch on the coaft, particularly one to the weft, defended by a wall, a caftle, and two turrets ; under the caftle are feveral fubterraneous caves, running into the middle of the ifland, the ground of which is very fertile. Near Dunworly ftrand is a fpring, called St. Ann^sWell, vifited by the fuperftitious Irifli on her feftival. To the weft- the coaft is all a bold high (bore, abound- ing with ftupendous cliff's, which aftonifli while they pleafe us. The vaft expanfe of the ocean adds to the grandeur of the fcene ; there is no objeft affeils the mind fo miUch ; for one cannot fee the heaving of it, even in a calm, without a pleafing aftonifhment; but when it is worked up by atempeft, fo that the hori- zon feems to be nothing but foaming billows, and floating mountains, it is impoffible to defcribe the agreeable horror that arifes on fuch a profpe£l. On moft of this coaft are great variety of caves, worked by the fea ; thefe caves are generally the ha- bitation of wild pigeons, gulls, and other fea-fowls, who live in the upper crevices; while porpoifes, feals, and other monfters of the deep, have their abode below. We A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. 245 We returned back by water to Cloghnakilty, pafling through its bay, where is a pleafant ifland called la- chideny, on which is a very delightful feat. Cloghnakilty, (anciently Clowncallow) is a town ' fituated near the fea, which affords it more pleafur^ than profit; the mouth of the harbour being choak-r ed with fand, prevents veffels of burden fromcoQiing . up to the town. It is built in the form of a crofs, and here is a decent new church, fituated on a rifing ground > this is a noted market on Fridays, for linen yarn. Before the wars of 1641, it was a flourilhing place; but being then' burnt down, it has never recovered itfelf. . At prefent it begins to thrive. About a mile to the north-eaft of this place, on the lands of Temple-brien, are the remains of an ancient heathen temple, . Six miles north from Cloghnakilty Is Iniflceen, a village, confifting of about thirty-eight houfes, which lies on both fides the-Bandon river ; to this place we proceeded, intending to make, the beft of our way to vifit the lake of Killarney, - About three miles weft of Inifkeen there is a ma- nufacture of earthen ware, the clay for which rs brought from the county of Kerry: the lands herC: are moftly under meadow and pafture; there is like- wife fome corn, find no. inconfiderable quantity of flax. A littleieaft of Inifkeen is Palace Anne, an hand- fdme, large, well-built houfe, with pleafure gardens, &c. To the weft of Inifkeen, on the fouth fide of Bandon-river, is Warren's-brook, a good houfe^ &c, and not above a mile further weft is Pheal,'and on the fame fide of the river Caftle-ballincarrigy, and not far fouth-eaft from it the caftle of Ballinward. * A little weft of Iniflceen is Connorfvillej on the north fide of Bandon-river. L 5 . Fi?om 220 A l"OUR riitovGH IRELAND. From Iniflceen to the village of Nuce's-town, the country is, for the moft part, mountainy and rocky, being covered over with heath, furze, and fern. To the north of Iniflceen is the ruined church of Ki- neigh, with a remarkable round tower, above feventy feet high, and 124 feet from the welt end of the church ; contrary to all others of the kind ; the firfc ftory is in the form of an hexagon, but the other five ilories above it are round. From Nuce's-town we proceeded about three miles north to Stravv^hall, formerly Kilbrenin, an abbey founded in the eighth century, part of whofe ruins are remaining on a rifmg ground. About a mile further is CafHemore, in good repair, and half a mile eaft Ryecourt, an handfome houfe and improvements, befides whiCb there are raifed and planted, within a few years, many thoufands of oaks, .and other forefl-trees. A mile v/eft is Crook's-town, a good houfe with fine gardens, large orchards, &c. to the weft of which are large groves of fir. The^ church of Moviddy was lately rebuilt. About a quarter of a mile north of the church is a quarry of excellent white freeftone ; and on the weft near Klllmurry, is a well, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and much frequented on her feftivals, by the common Irifli; near it is a ftone, in which they pre- tend is the miraculous impreffion of a man's knee. On the weft fide of the road from Crooks-town to Bandon, is a large ftone monument, of a great length and breadth. Tradition fays, it was ere£ted to the memiory of one Nial, who was faid to be flain in bat- tle near this place. Near it is Agharlow, a good houfe with improve- ments, and about a mile eaft by north from thence is the caftle of Kilcrea, a ftrong building, having an excellent ftalrcafe, of a dark marble, from bottom to tog, about feventy feet high. It ftands a little fouth of A TOUPv THROUGH IRELAND. 227 of the river Bride. The barbicans, platforms, and ditch ftill remain. On the eaft fide is a large field called the Bawn, the only appendage, formerly, to great men's caftles, which places v/ere ufed for danc- ing, goaling, and fach diverfions; pleafure gardens, and other improvements, being then unknown in this country. In thefe bawns they alfokept their cattle by night, to prevent their being carried off by wolves, or their more rapacious neighbours. About two fields eaft of this caftle are the ruins of the abbey of Kilcrea. A great part of the building ftill remains; among which is the nave, and choir df the church. On the fouth fide of the former is a handfome arcade, of three Gothic arches, fupported by marble columns, thicker than thofeof the Tufcatt order. This arcade continues to form one fide of a chapel, being a crofs ifie. In the choir are fome old tombs, feveral of the lords Clancarty being here interred, as were the Barrets, and other principal per- fons of the country, who always oppofed the entire demolifliing of this pile. The fteeple is a light building, about eighty feet high, placed between the nave and choir; it is ftill entire, and fupported by Gothic arches. There is fomething very awful and folemn when one enters thefe reverend piles, once ere£led for the ufes of religion. Long founding ifle?, intermingled with graves and human bones, the twi- light vaults, the caverns piled with (kulls, and the gloomy darknefs, occafioned by the height of the walls, over-grown with flirubs and ivy, fo fadden all the fcene, that he muft- be a perfon who never reflects at all, if he thinks not of futurity, oa enterinr^ ( u) Mr. Pope fays) In thofe deep folitudes and awful cells. Where heav'nly penfive Contemplation dwells^ And ever-mufing Melancholy.reigns, • \ ^ From %:ZS A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. From the gateway of this abbey to the road, there are high banks on either fide, formed entirely of hu- man bones and ikulls, cemented together with mofs ; and befides great numbers ftrewn about, there are fe- veral thoufands piled up in the arches, windows, &c. which fliew this place formerly to have been a very great cemetery. At the end of a lane leading to this ruin ftands a large wooden crofs, which has remained there ever fince the demolition of the abbey; and this entrance to the abbey is by an avenue of venerable oak. The river Bride winds fvveetly away through a vale below this ruin, and turning north, falls into the river Lee. Near it is an handfome feat called Snugborough, with fine plantations. A mile north from it is Garyhafty, a pleafant feat, near the fouth fide of the bridge. About a mile weft from the abbey and caftle is the bog of Kilcrea, called in Irifli, Geary, formerly very incommodious and unprofitable, the middle of it being woody, bufhy, and very deep, quite inacceffible, and edged on the eaft and weft with red bogs; and, till about thirty years ago, fre- quented by wolves, to the great annoyance of the ad- jacent inhabitants. This defcription of it was re- turned by an inqueft of jurors, on a commiffion of iiirvey, anno 1656; and fo it continued, till lately drained and made excellent land. We proceeded on to Ballincolly, a large caftle not far diftant, and only four miles weft of Cork. Here we turned north to Cooleroe, on the fouth bank of the Lee, with good plantations, and an handfome avenue leading to the houfe. Near it is the bridge of Inifcarra, of fix ftone arches, over the Lee. The river is here con- trailed, having a fall, and runs with great rapidity. Upon this river are feveral feats : on the north fide is Inifcarra, a decent church, and neat built par- fonage houfe. Sirmount lies a mile more to the weft, on a rifing ground over the Lee; it is finely -j70oded on the eaft fide^) and has a good fouth profpcfi: A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. 229 of a great extent of country. Not far from, and op- pofite to this feat, are the remains of a caftle, named Caftle-Inchy, A mile north of Inifcarra, on a rifing ground, is Arduum, a pleafant feat, near v/hich is the village of Cloghroe. More weft ftands Ballyally^ an handfome houfe and park. From thence we fet out for Mill-ftreet, through a country rough and uncultivated, with the Boggra mountains to the north, and the Mufkerry mountains before us. A dreary profpect ! Here we leave A4a- croomp on the fouth, about fix miles, from w'hence is- Caum-Carig, (i. e. the crooked rocks) a rugged hill^ which muft be pafled over before one arrives at Mill- ftreet. On the left the eye is entertained with va- rious profpe£ls of the Kerry mountains above-men- tioned: the laft of the range, to the north, is a lofty cone, called Clara-hill; at the foot of it is Mount- Leader, a good houfe and plantations. On the left is Kilmedy, a fmall caftle now in ruins, near which was a redoubt for half a foot company. North of Kilmedy about one mile is Mill-ftreet, the laft vil- lage of any confequence in this part of the barony; the new turnpike road from Cork to Kerry runs through it, being carried over the Boggra mountain; a new barrack, and fome manufactures in the linen trade fet up here, will foon make it a place of fome note. About a mile to the eaft, is Drifhane, an high caftle ; near the caftle is a new handfome houfe. From Mill-ftreet we proceeded on tne new turn- pike road over the mountains that divide Cork from Kerry, to Glanflefk, which till of late years v/as deemed impoflible. From thence the river Flefk ac- companied us to Killarney. On the left of the road the mountain of Mangerton reared its ftately head, efteemed one of the high eft in the kingdom, at leaft 1020 yards perpendicular above the lake of KiiJarney, which is confiderably higher than the fea. To the weft of Mangerton are thti Recks, which fcem, by the eye^ 0.^0 A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. eye, to be rather higher than that mountain, but hills that are conical, and terminate in points, appear higher at a diftance than thofe which have a lar^e furface, or table, on their tops ; as fteeples with fplres feem to be higher than thofe which are covered with domes. The Reeks are fteeper than Mangerton, and have niore terrible precipices, and declivuies, fo that it is impoffible to determine their height by the barometer. On the v/eftern fide of Mangerton is a laroe deep hole, filled with v/ater, called'the Devil's Punch- bowl, v/aich overflows and makes an agreeable caf- cade down the fide of the mountain, in view of A^ur- cus-houfe. This water fupplies the mills for the iron works, and then falls into Lake Lane, or what is more commcniy called the lake of Killarney, which forms one of the greateft natural beauties of Ire- land, and will amply repay any traveller of tafte, for his trouble in journeying thither. One of the beft profpeas it afFords is from the north, on a rifing ground, near the ruined cathedral of Ap;- hadoe ; not but there are many other fine views of it, from every other fide, but few of them take in fo many particulars, as may be obferved from that fta- tion ; for from hence is to be feen one of the moft delicious landfcapes in Ireland; and perhaps few countries in Europe afi^ord better. But this is fuch a mafter-piece, that even the PouiTins, Salvator Rofa, or the moft eminent painter in that way, might here furniih himfelf with fufficient matter, not only to. torm one, but feveral entertaining profpedts. From this einmence a furvey may be taken of the o-reateft part of this beautiful lake ^ and likewife o'^f that Itupendous amphitheatre of mountains, which are ranged ..ong the oppcfite fhores. The town of Kil- larney IS i^^ated on its eaftern fide 3 and from the eaft end of the middle lake,, entirely- round the upper and lower lakes, (tor notwithftanding -they are generally reckoned A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. 231 reckoned but two, they may not improperly be dif- tlnguifhed in three lakes) to the village at the well end of the lower lake, (one narrow valley excepted, in the fouth, through which runs a river into the upper lake) is one continued range of moft enor- mous mountains, the immenfe declivities of which are covered with woods, from nearly their tops, down to the verge of the lakes. The romantic intermixture of horilble impending precipices with thefe lofty mountains, that are molt beautifully covered down their fides, to the very verge of the lake, with arborage of every of the com- mon forts of v/ood, mixed with ever-greens of various kinds, all which appear to be the fpontaneous pro- duce of the foil, and with their different and dlverfi- fied fhades and tints prefent fuch a grand and beau- tifully variegated fcenery on the immenfe Hopes of thefe furrounding hills as is beyond defcription :— add to this the num.berlefs rivulets cafcading in rocky channels, fkirted with trees of every kind, down the fides of thefe enormous mountains, fome of them to the height of a hundred yards or more at one view ; while in other places are feen catara6ls or water-falls, over rocky precipices, near or m.ore dif- tant from fliore; and the w^hole together prefents fuch a grand and Itriking profpCvSl as pleafes and en- tertains beyond imagination; Thefe are beauties exterior to the lake, to be feen on the furrounding rocks and mountains, either in a boat or from the iflands, of which there are many and of very different extent, difperfed over the lake^ and all of them, of any fize, one only excepted, which is inhabited by an innumerable fight of rab- bets, beautifully ornamented v/ith trees of every kind, with a moft delightful intermixture of ever-greens, as box, holly, yew, and, which is the greateft curi- ofity of this kind, the arbutus, or flrawberry tree, the whole of which^ here likewife, appear to be afpon-. 232. A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND; a fpontaneous pfoduaion, and fome of them o-row to an immenfe fize on thefe iflands. — We faw, at lord Kennieir's, a table made of one of thefe yews, the leaves of which were above tw^o feet a-crofs without any joint ; and hollies of a prodigious mao-ni- tude are found here; I have feen many of them equal to, and fome of above two feet in diameter in the body of the tree. On fome of thefe iflands there are found likewife, fhrubs of various kinds, fuch as I do not remember to have feen, many of which I make no. doubt, have their medicinal virtues, from the refemblance they have in fmell to the contents of a Galenic fhop. The cooling and refrefliing (hade of the woods with which thefe iflands are ornamented, with their diverfified figures, extent, and different elevations from tne furface of the lakes, fome of them with fiat fnores, and rifing verdant eminences in their interior recefles from the water, others fo low and generally flat, that you can form but little idea of their extent, without landing or furroundino- them while others again are raifed on rocks, with"" preci- pices, that muft be- clambered if you would make a landmg. 'Tis eafier for the rural and romantic genius to conceive than for me to exprefs the pleafure, that in every profpeft, derives to the curious traveller from ■ inch a mixed and diverfified fcene of entertainment A general profpe6l of the beautiful feen ery of thefe lakes may be obtained, and will amply reward thofe whofe curiofity is ftrong enough to carry them up to < the top of fome of the furrounding mountains, par- ticularly from the top of the rough and fhaa^ Turc a UnC ^r/T. v'^'^^'/^'^y mountain, ?hat flandl a little detached from the neighbouring Mangerton, on the eafl fide of the entrance into the^narrow ftrak that leads to the upper lake; a fituation that com^ niands the moft extenfive profpeft of the feveral lakes and A TOUPv THROUGH IRELAND. 233 and country adjacent, of any that can be found on the furrounding eminences. His name he derives from the likenefs of his white chalky top to the Turkifn turban : you will find him on the right of, and not far from the Devil's Punch- bowl. From the lofty fhaggy top of this rocky mountain is fcen a profpefi, the moft fertile -of aqueous, rural, and romantic beauties, within the extent of half a . dozen miles on either Ivand, that any hill, perhaps. In the world affords, v/ithin the fame extent. The .extremities of your view, from this eminence, pre- fent the out-lines of the feveral lakes, with the fur- ;rcu.nding verdant mountains, rocks and precipices ; a general view, likewife, of the deep and mofl irrigu- ous valley and ftraight, that leads from the upper to the lower lake, and which in any other fitu- ation, is feen but very partially; including alfo the country acrofs the lov/er lake, to the north and eaft- w^ard, which is, in general, a very fertile foil, and not thinly inhabited; with a view of the town of Killarney, and the feveral feats and villas in the neighbourhood of the lake; and below, in a literal fenfe, in. heard, confequently in greater perfection in the midft / of funimer than in November; on every of thefe confidcrations it fliould feem that a voyage over thefe lakes A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. 247 lakes in one of the warmer days of fummer mufc afFord much higher degrees of rural pleafure and en- tertainment. The extent of the lower lake, from eaft to weft, < may be about feven or eight miles, and a-erofs it from north to foiith about half that diftance ; but from the north-of the lower lake, near Killarney, to the fouth of the upper lake, including the windincr ftreight between them tnrou2:h the vallies, muft be at leaft ten or twelve, fufTiciently cxtenfive and co- pious of variety to furnifn a continued fucceilion of pleafure and profpctSlive entertainment for the longed: fummer's day, and ftores are generally carried on board for regaling on fome of the iflands, with which thefe i^nimitable lakes are ornamented in great num- bers, and variety of extent and figures, the vifiting- of which from one to another, and examining their various and luxuriatit produce, w^lth the almoft in- finite number of fubjn^fls of entertainment that may be found on thefe lakes, will be a progrefs fo fertile of novelty and diverfion, that the longeil fummer's day [ will be too fliort for the curious, the fearcher of na- tural beauties. To examine minutely indeed the in- finite variety of fubje6ls of entertainment that may be. found in and about this lake, would employ the curious traveller for a month. The ifland of Ennisfallen is generally the dining place, where there is a kind of hall fitted up by the ■ lord Kenmair, out of one of the ifles belonging to aa , ancient abbey, the ruins of which are ftiil feen oil; ^ this, ifland, fituate on an eminence commanding aa extenfive profpeil of the lower lake. This ifland includes about twelve acres of the moft fertile ground I ever faw, to judge of it by the luxuriant and fpontaneous produce; the trees are intermixed with little plots of fuch rich and lufcious pafturage, that the fat of a braft in a week's feeding on it will be converted into a fpecies of very marrpv^^ even too ' M 4 rich '" A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. rich for the chandlers ufe, without a mixture of a groffer kind. Direclly oppofite to this ifland to the fouth-vveft, in a beautiful bay of the lake under the mountains on the fouth, the traveller is fhewn a cafcade v/hicli well deferves his notice ; the lower part of it is vifible to the ifland, but to fee it in its greateft per- fection, you mufl: land at the bottom of the bay. It defcends from the mountains fome hundred yards dov/n a fcallow glyn that is covered with trees, and cic>iiccals the greateft part of it 3 but a fituation may be obtained near the bottom, at >vhich you may fee it calfcading with infinite beauty and grandeur under the arching trees from an aftonifhing height, and after heavy rains on the m.ountains above, the water comes roaring down in a torrent that forms one of the grandeft and moft beautiful cafcades I ever beheld : That celebrated artificial one of Chatfworth, in DerbyO]iire, the manfion, or palace rather, of the duke of Devon, is not, I aiTure you, comparable to it. Uniformity in an artificial cafcade is the greateft abfurdity that can be introduced, becaufe really the iartheft from a juft imitation of nature. ' We had the good fortune to fee this with the advantage of an. extraordinary fall, for it rained one whole night almoft during our ftay at Killarney, and the next day morning v/e p jfhed ofF our boat again, on purpofe to fee this cafcade in its greateft- perfe6lion. There i^, in truth, the moft delightful and enter- taining fcenery on the peninfula, near Mucrufs, and in profpe£t from it, that imagination can paint, or the m.oft romantic fancy conceive; it is in the very centre of lakes, mountains, v/oods^ lawns, and fertile rocks, for even the rocks appear to vegetate into trees and flirubs. This laft is a natural cur iofity of the place I have not yet taken any notice of there is really fomething extremely curi^Dus and entertaining in the appearance of this rocky vegetation ^ it is really A ^r^WJlR THROUGH IRELAND. 249 furprifingto fee the flourifning growth of trees among foine of thefe rocks where there is hardly an inch of earth vifible to fupport them, and the wild extrava- gant manner in which many of them grow, tv/ifting and curling about the roclcs, is very diverting. The bodies of fome of them are really feated on. the folid undivided rocks, with their ramified roots curling like ivy over the furface of the rocks, till they reach the earth down the fides even the trunks of many of them are fertile of feveral kinds of \voods. You will frequently find old trunks that (hall have three or four trees growing out of their bodies. I have feen an oak, an afh, an hazel, a birch, and a bufli, fo incorporated into the trunk of an old lively holly, that they appeared to grow out of its very body, and to exift by feeding on its vitals. The account that is given for thefe vegetable extra- vagations of nature, as not only very probable, but undoubtedly the truth, that the feeds of the different kinds of woods are carried by birds and dropped, and fome by the winds are blown into their hollow moul- dering trunks, and there fi:rike root ; and in a place like this, ^that till within a few ages paft has been unnoticed, and almoft uninhabited, fince the expul- fion or difperfion of the monks, about 6 or 700 years fi nee, but by the birds and quadrupeds, it is natural tp • expe(Sl prodigies in-vegetation, and, indeed, many fuch / luwe been found here; but, however eafilv ac- counted for, fuch wild extravagant phasnomena in vegetation are very entertaining. The uncommon mixture of trees likewife, which is found among thefe rocks, is very furprifing. In the compafs of fifty or fixty yards I have found above twenty dif- fcrent kinds of trees grov/ing in a flourifliing man- ner. The arbutus in particular feems wonderfully lu^curiant in fitu^tions of this kind, and what is more €xUil9rdinar.yy it WQuld coft any man more labour M 5 than tiso A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. than he would chufe to beftow for one day, to be able to get a cart load of earth together from v/ ithin the whole compafs. Even the very bowels of the peninfula arc fraught with mines of copper ; and filver, we were told, has been extra£led from them. I picked up fome pieces of ore near the fhaft (the well where they raife the ore from the mine) that appeared to be the mod like the kind that fhould produce it, from their likenefs to filver ore, which I have before feen. The mines are prodigioufly deep, and have been worked a great way under the lake. Almoft every kind of natural curiofities or beauties that is to be found on thefe lakes, either of vegetables, ifiands^ rocks, mountains, echoes, and cafcades, in feme degree come within view of this delightful peninfula. The beautiful cafcade from the Devil's Punch-bowl is vifible on almoft every little eminence of it; its fituation indeed is in the centre of the whole fcene of Ciitertainment that is found in the lake of Killarney. Rabbit-ifland ftands to the W. of Innisfallen, and is chiefly remarkable for its quarries of good limeftone, ^vhich the neighbouring inhabitants dig and burn, in order to manure their ground : but the beft limeftone in this barony is dug at Caftle-Fiery, not far from the river Mang. An infinite number of iflands of a fmaller fize, fpangle and adorn this lake, nioft of v>?hich are covered with arbutus, and feveral other beautiful fhrubs : one of them, from a fancied reprefentation, refembles at fome diftance the figure of an horfe in a drinking pofture ; another is called O-Donoghoe's Prifon ; and a third his Garden ; moft of them are of marble, cloathed with ever-green flirubs, growing out of the crevices of the rocks. Some of the iflands in the upper lake are of fuch a ftupendous height that they refemble at a diftance fo many lofty towers ftand- ing in the water, and being many of them crowned A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. 251 with wreaths of arbutus, reprefent the ruins of ftately palaces. Their edges are fo much worn away by the dafhing of the water againft their fides^ and by frequent rains wafliing away the earth, and time hath fo dif-jointed many of the marble rocks, that feveral of them hang in a moft furprifing and tottering manner, and reprefent a rude kind of con- fufecj architecture, almoft without foundations. In others of them the w^aters have worn paflages failiciently large for boats to go through : thefe tot- tering arches, which in fome places (though thej^ are of an imm.enfe weight) are only upheld by very flender pillars. The moft noted of thefe iflands is that of Rofs, which is rather a peninfula, being only feparated by a fmail cut through a m.orafs, from the main land> over which is a bridge. On it ftands an ancient cafilc, formerly the feat of O-Donoghoe Rofs, which hath a new barrack adjoining to it. This place hath been for fome years paft a military garrifon, having a governor appointed for it upon the eftablifli- ment. Before the caftle are a fev/ old difmounted iron guns, which give it fomething of the air of a fortification. The caftle had beert flanked with round turrets, which, together v/ith its fituation, rendered it a place of forne ftrength. This is on^ of the largeft iflands on the lake, and contains about: 80 or 100 acres, well wooded, and fertile of rich pafturage. We were credibly informed, that pearls of very great value had been found about this lake, and in the channels formed by the cafcc\des falling into it, a;iJ particularly in the river at the weft end^ that difcharges its v/aters into the fea. Salmon are caught in great plenty and perfeilion in thcfc lakes, and fold at the moderate and ftated price of one penny per pound. The arbutus, or ftravvberry tree, which grows iix greater plenty and perfection on many of thefe ifland?, M 6 mzy 2S2 A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. may juftly Be efleemed one of the greateft natural curiofities of the vegetable kind, as they have the appearance of being a fpontaneous production ; but, indeed, were very probably planted here by the monks that formerly inhabited thefe iflands/and the environs about the lake. There are even fruit trees on fome of them, that have out-lived the defolatton that has feized the cells of thofe monkifh reclufants, and fome times bear a rich and fine flavoured fruit. When in its perfe£tion, about November, the ftrawberry- tree is one of the moft beautiful ever- greens, perhaps, that our climate produces, having at thefame time bloom, and green and ripe fruit on its branches. But it has not thefe ornaments through- out, the year, as without fufficient foundation has been aflbrted of it. The fruit, by the natives in the neighbourhood, is called the cane-apple; when ripe it is in fhape much like the wood-ftrawberry, but nearly as large as the garden-ftrawberry, of a fine fcarlet colour, and hangs in beautiful clufters among the branches. From the tempting beauty of its form and colour, 'tis not a little mortifying to find its tafte fo infipid. However, I know of no danger of eating more than one or two at a time, as is aflerted by Mr. Salmon, in his account of this tree. 'Tis certain, they are eat in great numbers by the people who live about the lake, without any fenfible ill elFeft. — The fame gentlem.an has given us monftrous accounts of the lize of this tree, that it is equal to 20 inches, or two feet in diameter, and high in proportion. But he certainly, in this account, as well as in many others, wrote moft implicitly. The largeft to be found on thefe iflands, where they grow in as great perfection, perhaps, as any where in the king's dominions, does not exceed fix or feven inches in diameter, and from ten to fifteen feet high in general ] when it flioots up amcngft A. TOUR THROUGH IRELAND/ amongft other trees on the iflands, it will fometimes run up to near 20 feet. It is, really, a mofl: beautiful ever-green, and^ mixed with others, as box, yew, holly, and the com- mon kinds of wood, moft agreeably variegates the profpeft. But what adds to the profpe6live beauty of the iflands in general, is, that the ever-greens, and particularly the arbutus, grow in the greateft plenty near the outfides, and in profpecl from the lake. — Others may be fond as myfelf of rural and natural curiofities, and therefore I have been the more copious in my defcription of the inimitable beauties of the lake of Killarney, ftill, however, with this humiliating reflexion, that the utmoft efforts of the pen or pencil will fall very fhort of the inimi- table original. It is impoffible, in defcriptions of this kind, where the fubje6ts of entertainment are fo mixed and various, to obferve any regularity in the accounts of them. I have paid no attention to this, but only to introduce, fomewhere or other in the defcription, the principal articles, as near as I could, that were curious and entertaining. The feveral fub- jedls, however, follow in nearly the fame order that the originals occurred to m>e, in the feveral trips I made over this moft enchanting lake ; throughout the whole of which I have endeavoured to give the beft idea that I could, v/Ithout exaggeration, of the general fcenery, and of the principal and moft remarkable curiofities and entertainments. Indeed, the fubjeit will not admit of any heightening, fo far as the beauty and grandeur of the place are concern- ed. The higheft defcription will be unequal, and muft fmk far below the conceptions and imprefiions of the curious fpe£lator on the fpot. There is fuch an artlefs difpofition of the feveral beauties, fuch an entertaining variety, fuch a fublimity throughout^ as will be fu perior to the moft laboured portrait* The fineft fubjeds iu the world for painting and 254 A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. drawing in the rural or romantic tafte^ are here ex- hibited in the richeft perfe£lion from nature, the fovereign miftrefs of thefe ingenious arts. I am charmed with the place, and muft finifli at lall where I firft began ; I hardly think that nature, in any part of this habitable globe, has thrown to- gether a finer collection of materials for improve- ment, by a very little introduction of art, into a fcene the moft enchantingly rural and the moft fertile of entertainment to her curious votaries. The manner of returning from the lower lake, is either back through the fame fcene, or on horfeback, over the mountain, on a new road, which w^as made by a fubfcription of the principal gentlemen of the county. This was for feveral years thought impractica- ble, and yet confidering its length, and the carrying it through almoft impaffable mountains, was at length completed at a fmall expence, to the great im- provement of the country. It leads from the head of the river of Kenmair, to the town of Killarney, through the barony of Glanerought ; by which an intercourfe is opened between that town and the fea : whereby that place can be fupplied with fifh and other fea productions, and it hath been of infinite fervice in facilitating the carriage of the copper ore to that river, to be (hipped for Bfiftol. I fiiall now mention fuch feats and buildin2;s w^orthy of notice, which ftand near this lough. And firll, tov/ards the fouthern part of the lake, fituated on a peninfula, ftands Mucrufs, the feat of Edward Herbert, Efq; a fituation where nature, in her native attire, very little afiifted by art, out-does every thing that human fancy, fupported with the higheft expence, hath yet performed ; for whether we firft refleCl on the delightful profpeCls that this feat affords, as the iofty mountains hanging over the lake wooded almoft to their fummits 3 cafcades pouring down from fe- veral A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. 255 veral of them, particularly that already noticed, from Mangerton, which fends down a roaring torrent not far diftant; the beautiful expanfe of water which wafhes the verge of this gentleman's gardens and im- provements, fcattered over with iflands, fo wooded as to reprefent feveral well cultivated fpots ; alfo a parti- cular lake called Mucrufs lake, or the third lake, divided by the peninfula from the great one ; and on the oppofite fliore, a level, well improved country: I fay, whether we take in at one view all this enchant- ing fcenery, or ftop to admire in detail the particular beauties of the feat itfelf, we fliall find fufficient mat- ter for pleafure and admiration. The natural appear- ance of this place, before it was adorned by any improve- ment, was that of aluxuriant garden ; where great vari- ety of trees and fhrubs,the produce only of a more con- genial clime, flouriflied fpontaneoufly ; as the arbu- tus, juniper, yew, buckthorn, fervice, and others, found growing among the crevices of marble rocks : the feeds, and original plantation of which, I fufpefl to have been laid here, many centuries ago, by the monks of the adjacent abbies; where, meeting with a foil and climate favourable to their prefervation and propagation, they have wonderfully flourifhed ever fuice without any affiftance from art. Thefe natural gardens, therefore, wanted little affift- ance to beautify them, except an enclofure towards the land, and the lopping away part of their luxuri- ance, to form avenues and walks through them; be- fides the addition of fuch exotics, as have been but of late years introduced into Ireland ; among which, there has been planted a confiderable number of vines, which are now fpreading their branches, and crawling up feveral floping rocks of variegated marble. It was indeed an handfome compliment which was paid to this place, by a late right reverend prelate. Dr. Berkley, whofe high tafte in the beauties of art and nature^ A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND, nature, as well as goodnefs of heart, and folid learnin^y all the world equally admired and acknowledged ; who being afked what he thought of this feat, immediately anfwered, that the French monarch might poffibly be able to ere£l another Verfailles, but could not with all his revenues lay out another Mucrufs. The gardens of this feat extend to the ruins of an antient friary, called Irrelagh, i. e. on the lough, founded in the year 1440, for minorities, and repaired in 1468. It was again re-edified in the year 1602, but foon after fufFered to go to ruin. The walks are furrounded by a venerable grove of afh trees, which, are very tall, and in fome places grow fpontaneouily, from the ruins of the abbey. The choir, nave and fieeple, ftill remain intire, in which are feveral de- cayed tombs. The cloyfters are likewife intire, and confift of 22 Gothic arches of folid marble, which enclofe a fmall fquare, of about 30 feet, in the centre of which ftands one of the talleft yew trees I have ever feen ; its fpreading branches, like a great um- brella, overfliadow the niches of the whole cloyfter^ forming a m.ore folemn, and awful kind of covering to it, than originally belonged to the place. The body of it is fix, or fix feet and a half in circumfe- rence, and of that magnitude runs up a ftrait clean trunks to the height of fifteen feet, ^till it rifes abov0 the battlements of the cloyfters, and then fpreads over them in large and regular branches. The yew has ahvays been facred to fuperftition, and none ever was more fo than this ; numberlefs are the relations of fuperftltious credulity here, of deaths, and dire calamities that have, from time to time, befel the facrilegious attempts upon this facred tree, wlxich probably was planted at the time the friary was found- ed, viz. 339 years fince. The fteeple was fmall, and capable of containing only a fingle bell, and it is fup- ported by a Gothic arch or vault. The bell v/as not many years ago found in the adjacent lough^ and by * ' ^ the A TOUR THROUGH IREnAND. 257 i the infcriptlon, was known to have belonged to thi^ I priory, which from the time of its foundation, hath I been the cementery of the Mac Carty-Morcs, and f other families. Thoufands of human ikulls and banes I are piled in heaps among thefe ruins. Near this friary, are feveral buildings appropriated to the iron -works, the ore of which is found at no I great diftance. At this place, and in moft other I ' bloomeries in thefe parts, they uk about a fixth part I of the Englifh red mine, to one of the native ore, v/hich renders it lefs brittle, and more malleable than the Irifh ore would be if it w^as ufed alone. Nearer to Killarney ftand the ruins of Cafcle-lough, built on a rock furrounded by the lake ; it w^as entire- ly demiolifned in the wars of 1641. Not far from hence is Rpckwood, the feat of Arthur Herbert^ Efq; which commands a profpe£t of the lake, and adjacent jfiands, Rofs-Caftle, and other buildings. Profpect-Hall, belongijig to James Supple, Efq; looks over a fine landfcape of the oppofite lough and its iflands, .and has its garden well laid out, dov/n to the water: the view from this place dlfters but little from what may be taken from the ruined church of Aghadoe, except that it affords a nearer profpecl of the beauties of the lough, which have been already^ defcribed. To the weft end of the lough is Tomes, the feat of O-Sullivan-More 5 and near a mile more weft on the river Laune^ or Lane, is Dunlow-Caftle, boldly^ feated upon an eminence ; to the fouth of v/hich is a very craggy, deep, and romantic chafm in the moun- tain. It commands an extenfive view of the lake from the v/eft end, with the meandering courfe of the riv£r abovementioned, down to the harbour of Caftie- main. The floors of this caftle, and of the adjacent houle, belonging to Mr. Mahony, are formed of very fine planks of the yew tree, which is a^ wood, that if well wrought by a fkilful cabinet-giakery . has a beauti- 2s8 A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. beautiful grain and colour not inferior to mahogany : but thefe noble trees, that formerly grew in fuch great plenty hereabouts, are now almoll deftroyed. ildjoining to this caftle are fome good plantations and improvements. ^ Not far from Dunlow, on the north fide of the ri- ver Jvanc, is New-Pallicc, a houte and impi-ovement of the late IVIac-Carty-More. The old feat of this family,^ called alfo Pallice, ftands in ruins. On the banks of the fame river, more to the weft^ ftands a fmall ruined caftle, eredled in the wars of j64i5 by one captain Sullivan, as a place of de- fence. Two miles W. of Dunlov/ is Mac-Gilly-Cuddy's caftle : it ftands to the N. of the mountains called Mac-Gilly-Cuddy's reeks. Ballymalus caflle, faid to have been built by the Aforiarties, is alfo feated on the river Lane, and thefe are all the places of note that are fituatedon the banks of the faid river, from its exit out of the lough to Kilorglin, below which it difembogues itfelf into the bay of Caftlemain. It would be a moft ufeful work to the town of Killarney, and indeed to all the adja- cent country, if this river was rendered navigable for fmall veflels of 30 or 40 tuns ; a v/ork, which, from the fiender obfervations made on the levels and courfe of the v/ater, I think might be executed by means of one, or at the moft of two locks, befides fcouring and banking the riv^cr, at the charge of about aoool. a fum, which, if the w^hole was expended, would fall light on the feveral gentlemen, w^hofe eftates are wafhed by this river, or are contiguous to it. The lands furrounding the lough and the town of Killarney„ together with the company engaged in the adjacent mines, all ought to ftiare in and forv/ard the under- taking. jniMjj This river, befidcs a great quantity of water wkhiifl which it is fupplied from the loughj (being the only difchargc \ A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. ' 2Kq difcharge the lake hath, though it receives the river Flefk, the v/aters of the upper lake, and feveral : other brooks) hath the river Lifbaiidine or Gifbandine, and another confiderable rivulet from the fouth, fo that there can never be any want of water, even in the drieft feafon. The whole courfe of it from the lough to the ferry of Kilorglin is about eight Irifli meafured ; miles. This work, with the cutting a ftrait channel to ■ the Mang, (which running through a foft morafs might be eafily eftedled) would contribute to the opening the bar of Caftlemain harbour, and render it lefs dangerous for veflels. By the navigation of the Lane, copper ore might be conveyed to the fhip entirely by water, and excellent fea-fand be brought from Kilorglin for manuring the adjacent lands. A. great part of the corn confumed hereabouts is brought from the country near Dingle, at a great diftance, by land carriage ; that part of the county, becaufe of its lying convenient to fea fand, which is here found to be a better manure than lime for the production of corn, hath run greatly into tillage, and is become in a manner the granary of the county. By this naviga- tion, not only manure, but corn alfo might be brought cheaper to market than by land carriage. Killarney v/ould then become a kind of fea-port, its market be better fupplied, and its buildings confiderably in- creafed by the convenience of water carriage for bringing timber, and other conveniences for building,, from diftant places. The Englilh iron ore would come cheaper to the foundery, and the call iron he eafier tranfmitted to any fea-port in the kingdom. Salt and falt-works might be made and ere£i:ed in or near that town at little additional charge, to the great profit and convenience of the neighbouring country. Thefe, and many other advantages, tea nurnerous to infert, would arife from this defign ; the furthti: :^6o A TOUR through IRE LAND; further profecution of which is fubmitted to the gentlemen whofe intereft it moft concerns. The town of Killarney is a fmall thriving place, being confiderably improved, fince the minority of its prefent owner, the L. Vif. Kenmair, who has en- couraged feveral inhabitants to fettle in it, and erefted fome hoiifes for linen manufadlurers about a mile from the town. There are already four great new roads finiftied to it, one from the county of Corky, v/hich leads to that city ; / a fecond from Caftie IHand, which proceeds towards Limerick ; the third is that to the river of Kenmair before mentioned ; and a fourth is lately made to Caftlemain, from which- laft place new roads have been carried to Tralee and Dingle. The neighbourhood of the mines affords employment for feveral people, and will confequently caufe a confiderable fum of money to be fpent in it y a new ftreet, with a large commodious inn, are built here ; for the curiofitles of the neighbouring lake have of late attra&ed great numbers of curious travel- lers to vifitit, and no doubt many more will go thither to partake of the diverfions and amufements of that place, as they may be affured of being commodioufly and cheaply entertained. The principal ornament of Killarney is the feat and gardens of lord Kenmair, planted with large nur- feries of fruit and timber trees. Not far from the houfe is a large and pleafant park, well wooded and^ ftocked v/ith deer, of which he has alfo abundance in' the forefts of the adjacent mountains. - Within tv/o miles of Killarney, at the north end of the lakes, the ruined church of Aghadoe, an- tiently Aghaboe, i. e. campus bovis, ftands on an eminence in a very fine fituation; it continues to retain the name of a cathedral, although no other dignitary belongs to it but the archdeaconry; it was dedi- cated to the much efteemed St. Finian, and is of great antiquity. There are not the remains of an houfe or building A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. 261 building near it, except the ruins of a fmall old caflle, and the ftump of one of the round tovrers, which are ^ common appendage to many of our old cathedral j^hurches. > 'I'd the N. of this cathedral is Barley-Mount, k good houfe and plantation. From Killarney we proceeded fouth on the New Road to the head of the river Kenmair, about five miles from which we were (hewn a curiofity by the natives, called the Fairy- Rock, on which are the impreflions of feveral human ^feet, fome naked, and others with brogues on, and thefe are of all fizes, from infancy to manhood. The vulgar opinion is that of its being a fupernatural pro- dudiion ; but as there is nothing more common than for feveral kinds of clay to become petrified in time ; therefore, if rt be allowed that this rock might have been once in a foft and impreffible ftate, the wonder will entirely ceafe. About a mile further S. are the veftigia of an an- tient building, by tradition called the abbey of Oriel, and not far from it ArdtUlly, an agreeable feat with good improvements; about two miles S. from which, on the oppofite fide of the river, is Callan, amldft the moft irreclaimable lands in the whole county, and for about twenty miles, over which this barony extends, there is neither fair nor market, no church in repair, nor refidcnt prieft of the eftablifhed worfhip. From thence we continued our journey weftward on the .north bank of the Kenmair river, and faw very little worthy notice, except the ruins of the caftle of Dun- kerton, and of Cappanacufliy caftle, near which .are a few fpots of tillage, and potatoe culture, fcat- i Ktered among the rocks, but badly fecured from th€ depredations of the cattle. In proceeding weftward, we pafied the juins of Templenoe church, and a ulittle further, Ballybog, in the parifh of Kilcroghan, ^ and about a mik from the church is a curious hermit- age or celJ^ hewn out of the folid rock^ .fituated on s62 A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. the top of an hill, by fome antiquarians faid to have been the refidence of St. Kieran, v/hen he compofed his rule for Monks ; on which account the country people Jiold the ftalaftical exudations of this grottQ in great cftimation, imagining them to have many vir- tues, from the fuppofed fanftity of the place v/hich gives birth to them. At Cahirdonel, a little further weft, is a circular fortification built of large ftones, feven feet high ; and yet further weft ward, at Aghamore, are the remains of a fmall abbey, founded in the yth century. It ftands in a fmall ifland, near the mouth of the river Kenmair, having its wails fo battered by the fea that they will foori be demoliftied. About a league to the S. W. of this ifland, which is at low water joined to the fliore, there are two iflands, called Scarift" and Dinifti ; the former an high mountain in the. fea, and on the top of the higheft part of It is a ruined hermitage. Having viev/ed thefe iflands, we returned through part of the bay of Ballynafkeligs, into Lough Lee, or <'urrane, which is of an oval form, three miles in length, and about half as broad j it abounds with excellent white trouts and falmon. It is bounded on the fouth by mountains partly covered with v/oods. There are three fmall iflands in it, on one of v/hich are the remains of a church and cell, and fome other vcfligia of ruined buildings. Towards the edges of the lake, and, as the neighbouring inhabitants in- formed us, much further uiider the Vv'^ater, are dif- covered feveral walls and other inclofures, v/hen the water is clear, and the v/eather is bright ; whence it is probable that it hath been either greatly increafed of late years by fprings, or that the mouth of the river has been obftni£ted by fand driven in by the fea. Proceeding weft ward, we arrived in about a mile to the river Inny, over which was abridge, the piers of >yhich now remain 3 the arch fell in a fev/ years fnice. A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. 263 |j \fince. It was 24 feet wide, and but a yard thick, |i being only a meer foot path, which w^as afcended and I defcended by fteps ; it was of a confiderable height I over the river, and being built almoft femicircular, was generally called the Rainbow-bridge. Indeed it had more the refemblance of a triumphal arch than a bridge, and w^as erefted over a very deep part of the river, but at what time, or on what occafion, there is not the leaft tradition in the country. Near the mouth of the river Inny, S. W. from the Rainbow-bridge, there is a fine extenfive ftrand, re- markable for being almoft the only fm.ooth place where a perfon might venture to put his horfe to a gallop for many miles round it. It is eftecmcd here alfo a rarity, all the cliffs of the coaft being ex- ceeding high, and wafned by the ocean at low water. On the verge of the bay Is Ballinaflceiigs, V/here arc to be feen the ruins of an antient abbey or friary, formerly removed hither from the ifland called the Great Skelig, w^here there was a monaftcry the time of its foundation, probably as early as the fixth century. At what time the monks quitted the iiland is uncertain, but by the large traces of ruined build-, ings, which the fea is continually dem.oliihing, it appears that this abbey had been formerly a very fpacious edifice. There are fome (ketches of a town ftill remaining, befides a fmall caftle built formerly on an ifthmus, to defend the harbour againft pirates. St. fvlichael's v/ell, near this place, is vifited every 29th of September by a great ccn- courfc of people, fome of whom bring their fick, bli nd, and lame friends, in order, as they imagine, to be healed by this miraculous water. A little v/eft of it is Killemly, which has forae very good land near the church, which is in ruiils. It ftands at the bottom of a long bay, formed by Puffin Ifland to the N. and by Bolus-head to the S, From this bav the iflands of the Skeligs range in a Aireti line, w. s. w. 264 TOUR THROUGH IRE LAN IX W. S. W. Puffin iHand is but a fmall diftance from the fliore, being the moft weftern Head Land in theie parts : it is much frequented by the fowls called puffins, and is alfo well flocked with rabbits. It is fteep and craggy, and hath a remarkable opening, or gap, in its higheft part. From Killarney hither I fear the defcription has proved as tirefome to. the rea- der as it hath been fatiguing to the traveller. Here we took a boat, and paiFed over a fmall part of the weftern ocean, in order jto take a furvey of the Ske- IJgs, which are at no great diftance from this part of the country. The firft of them, or that which lies next the Ihore, (being within three miles of it) is called the Lemon, which is a round rock always above w^a- ter, and confequently no ways dangerous to ftiips, who rarely fall in fo clofewith the land. It has little on it remarkable, except its being ftocked with feve- ral kinds of fowl, as is the fecond or Middle Skelig, which is about a league more to the W. and about fix Irifh miles from the fliore. This rock is compofed of a reddifli kind of marble, and frequented by an incredible number of gannets, and other kinds of birds, which breed upon it ; it is remarkable that the gan- net neftles no where elfe on the S. coaft of Ireland, and though multitudes of them are daily feen on all parts of our coafts upon the wing, and in the fea, yet they were never known to alight on any other land or rock hereabouts, except on this ifland and I have been inform.ed, that there is another rock on the N. coaft of Ireland, where they alight and breed in the fame manner, and no where elfe in this king- dom. In the fpring and beginning of fummer the coun- try people refort hither in fmall boats, when the fea is calm, to catch thefe birds : they eat the flefti, which is fiftiy and rank ; but the principal profit is made by the feathers. The birds are exceeding fat^ and the A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND, 265 the perfons who take them, carry on a kind of traffic with them, by exchanging two faked puffins for a peck of meal. They eat them in lent, and on their faft days as well as fifh. The Great Skelig ftands about nine Irifh miles W, S. W. from Puffin illand. It is a very high and ftupendous rock, which was, until thefe few years pait, vifited by great numbers of people, ever fmce the time of St. Patrick, out of piety and devotion. The middle part of the ifland is flat and plain, confift- ing of about three acres of ground that were for- merly cultivated. This place is furrounded with high and inacceffible precipices that hang dreadfully over the fea, which is generally rough, and roars hideoully underneath ; there is but one track, and that very narrow, that leads to the top ; and this afcent is fo difficult and frightful, that few people are hardy enough to attempt it. In ftormy weather, or even w^hen the ocean is but a little; difhirbed, landing here^ is very difficult ; there are but tv/o places round the ifland that are proper for this purpofe, one is a kind of creek on the S. W. the other a fmall flat fpot oa the S. fide, where people land indifferently as the wind happens to blov/. Upon the flat part of the Ifland, which is about fifty yards perpendicular above the level of the fea, are feveral cells, faid to have been chapels; for on this ifland ftood antiently an abbey, the fcite of which, becaufe of the extreme bleaknefs, and the hazard in gomg to and from this place, was removed, as I have already faid to the continent. Thefe chapels or cells, with two wells of water^ are dedicated to St. Michael the Arch-angel, The foil is but thin, and yet the herbage is fhort and fweet ; the ridges where corn has formerly been fow^n are ftill vifible. Here are feveral ftone croflTes erected, at which the pilgrims offer up certain fl:ationary prayers, and have peculiar orizons to perform at eacli N ^ ftation. 266 A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. ftation. When they have vinted the cells and cha- pels they afcend the top of the rock, part of which is performed by Squeezing through an hollow part re- lembling the funnel or fliaft of a chimney, which they term the needle's ej^e. This afcent (although there are holes and fteps cut into the rock to climb by), is far from being gained without trouble ; but v/hcn this obftacle is furmounted, the pilgrim arrives at a fmall flat place, about a yard broad, which flopes away down both fides of the r5ck to the ocean j on the further fide of this fiat, which from its narrov/nefs , on the top is a kind of ifthmus ; the afcent is gained by climbing up a fmooth Hoping rock that only leans out a very little, and this they call the ftone of pain, from the difficulty of its afcent; there are a few fliallow holes cut into it v/here they fix their hands and feet, and by which they fcramble up. This kind of a floping wall is about twelve feet high, and the danger of mounting it feems terrible, for if a perfon fhould flip he might tumble on either fide of the ifthmus xlown a precipice headlong, m.any fathoms into the fea ; when this difficult pafi^age is furmounted, the remain- ing part of the way up to the higheft fummit of the rock is much lefs difficult. On the top are two ilations to vifit, w^here there are alfo fome ftone croffes ; the firft is called the eagle's neft, probably from its ex- treme height, for here a perfon feems to have got into the fuperior region of the air, and it is afcended by the help of fome fteps cut into the rock without much difficulty. If the reader can conceive a perfon, poifed as it v/ere, or rather perched on the fummit of this pinnacle, beholding the vaft expanfe of the ocean all around him, except towards the eaft, where the lofty mountains on the {hove appear like fo many low houfes overlooked from, the lofty dome of fome cathedral, he may be able to form fome idea of the tremendoufaefs and awfulnefs of fuch a profpcdl. The A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. 267 The fecond ftation which the do^votees have to vifit on this height, and which is attenacd with the utmoft horror and peril, is by fome called the fpindle, and others the fpit, which is a long narrow fragment of the rock, projecling from the fummit of this fright- ful place, over a raging fea ; and this is walked to by a narrow path of only two feet in breadth, and feveral fteps in length. Here the devotees, women as well as men, get aftride on this rock, and fo edge forward, until they arrive at a flone crofs, which fome bold adventurer cut formerly on its extreme end : and here having repeated a pater-nofter, returning from thence concludes the penance. To get back down the ftone of pain, is attended with fome addrefs in order to land fafe on the neck of rock, which I called an ifthmus. Many perfons a few years ago, came from the remoteft parts of Ireland to perform thefe penances, but the zeal of fuch adventurous devotees hath been very much cooled of late. There are two curiofities on this ifland, the one of art, and the other of nature, which deferve fome attention. The firft is the curious worktiianlliip of the cells or fmall chapels, which are built in the antient Roman manner, of ftone curioufly clofed and jointed, without either mortar or cement, and are impervious to the air and wind, being circular ftone arches at the top. The other curiofity is the wells of frefli water on this rock, which rife through it feveral yards above the level of the fea; that they fpring from the ocean is evi- dent, from the water being fomewhat brackifh in its tafte. The fea at a fmall diftance round this ifland, is no lefs than ninety fathom, which is deeper than it is in any part of the Englifh channel, or betv/een Great Britain and Holland. From the Skeligs v/e returned, and proceeded northward .to the iVi^nd of Valentiaj which is about 268 A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. five guiles long, and forms one fi.de of a fine harbour^ thie fea running between it and the main, like a river, which is in mott places about half a mile broad, and of a fufficient depth for veflels to fail through at any time of the tide. Oliver Cromwell had forts ereiled upon both ends of this ifland, which have been ne- gle<£led fince his time. Veffels may enter into the harbour at either end, and fail quite round the ifland, which is very fertile, and efteemed the granary of the country. From Valentia, on the oppofite ftiore, near- ly the middle of the harbour, there is a good chaly- beate fpring. From thence we proceeded to Cahir, v/hich lies to the^ north-eaft of Valentia, and its church is the only one in repair ia the whole barony ; near it are the ruins of feveral fmall houfes, built formerly by the neighbouring inhabitants, as places of fanftuary in time of war. Near Cahir, about a mile fouth, is a caftle called Littur; and oppofite to Cahir ftand the ruins of Ballycarbery, by whom ere£led is not known : there is a large fleur de lis carved on a flone on the infide. Near Dowlas-head, on this coaft, are feveral large caves, one of which has its entrance fo low, as hardTy to admit of a boat with a man fl:anding up in it, but farther in, the roof is as high as that of a Gothic cathedral : in this cave there is a very fmall but confufed echo, but when a perfon fpeaks, the voice is fo reverberated from fide to fide, as to feem louder than a fpeaking trumpet. Killenane lies to the north of Cahir; it has many mountains towards the fea, which are profitable only during the fummer months; one of them, called the Hag's Tooth, is of a remarkable height, on the north fide of which are fome romantic lakes. Thefe mountains are frequented by herds of fallow deer that ranged about in perfedl fecurity, no body (difturbing them in thefe wild places. The north A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. 269 fides are wafhed by the fea, which forms one or two creeks. We then turned eaftward, and paffed the river Fartin, which rifes towards the fouth-eaft, and is navigable a confiderable w^y up, from the har- bour of Valentia, for boats. On the eafl^rn fide -of which is Knockane, a large tra6t of ten, or tv»^elve miles fquare, and more than forty in circumference. Except fome low grounds near the river Laune,- it is encumbered with prodigious high mountains, called Mac Gillycuddy's reeks. All, or the greater part of the hills, and mountains hereabouts, were for- merly covered with trees, which have been deftroyed i r^hj the iron-works ereiled near the river Garra at a * ^,place called Black-ftones. On the wefl:ward of this tra£l is the high and fteep road acrofs the hills, called Drung, aad Cahircanawy; which roads hangs in a tremendous manner, over that part of the fea that forms the bay of Caftlemain, and is not unlike the mountain of Penmenmaure, in North Wales, except, that the road here is m.ore ftonv and lefs fecure for the traveller. There is a cuftom among the country people, to enjoin every one that pafies this mountain, to make fome verfes to its honour, otherwife they ajfHrm, that whoever attempts to pa fs it without verfi- fying, muft meet with fome mifchance : a colledticn of thefe itinerary rhymes would doubtlefs be very entertaining. From thence we proceeded to BlackfioneSj a fmalt village, furrounded v/ith rocky hills, and high moun-# tains. Among the naked rocks there is plenty of ever- greens, as yew, holly, and arbutus, with num- berlefs cafcades in v/inter, which form a very ptleafing landfcape. It is hardly poffible to meet with more romantic profpe£ls any where, than in thefe parts ; the rocks are extremely high and irregular, appearing, in many points of view, like the prodigious ruin of a great city. Every half mile (hifts the fcenery, .alFording a pleafing novelty, that ftrikes the traveller N 3 v/ith A T O U THRO CJGH I R E LAN D. with aftonifhmentv at the rude kind of magnificence which appears in thefe.ftupendous works of nature. On climbing up feme of the high mountains, the clouds in many places fcem to be manifeftly beneath us. To the north of the abovementioned village of Blackftones, are two very confiderable lakes formed by the river Gana, furroundcd by very high moun- tains. From the fecond, the river empties itfelf into the bay of Caftlcmain. .In mofl of thefe mountains are numbers of eagles, arid other rapacious birds, I have been affured, that fome years ago, a certain poor man in this part of the country discovered one of their nefts, and that by clipping the wings of the eaglets, and fixing collars of leiither about their throats, which prevented them from fv/allowing, he daily found ftore of good provifions in the neft, fuch as various kinds of excellent fifli, wild-fowl, rabbits, and hares, which the old ones conftantly brought to their young. And thus, the man and his children were well fupported during an h^rd fummerj by only giving the garbifli to the eaglets to keep them alive. From Blackftones we .proceeded to Kiloiglin, or Caftle-Conway, which flands near the mouth of the river Lane, and by its neighbourhood to the fea, is well fituated for trade, and would probably be a place of more note, if the harbour of Caftlemain was better known, or rendered fafer for (hipping. The village of Kilorglin confifts of feveral houfes, looks tolerably well for this part of the kingdom, and is a confiderable thoroughfare from Caftlemain. to the more fouthern. part of this county. ^1 he river Lane, on which it is fituated, abounds with falmon. I was (hewn a place near the fea, a little to the fonth- weil of this, v/here an odd accident happened a few years ago, occafioned by the fudden fliifting of a large quantity of fand, in a violent ftorm, that fpread it all over an adjacent bog, which became foon after a good - meadow : and not far from the bog, a fmall lough A TOUR' THROUGH IRELAND. 2.71;. lough was fiHed up by the fame means, and after- • wards Became good ground. From Kilorglin, we proceeded north-eaft to Kil - cohiian, or Colman's Church, now in ruins, but ap- pears to be very antient, it is built of a brown free- ilone, brought a great v/ay from the mountains, of" which kind 'of itone moft of our antient flrudure^ were built, although a good limeftone might be had' on the fpot : the reafon why thefe old architeds re- jetftcd limeflone, feems to be, that freeftone, being rnorc porous, was found to imbibe the mortar better, and grow harder in the air, as is the cafe with the Englifli Bath, and Portland ftone;' and for thefe rea- fons, I fuppofe, they preferred it to the dcnfer fpecies.- The ruins of the abbey of Killagh ftand not far from this church: the walls of the church are of a great length, and very ftrong ; thefe, with a noble window of Gothic architeiture at the eaft end, ftill remain entire. They are built of limeftone, or rather of a dark marble, as are fome other curious window- , frames^ that have hitherto refilled the injuries of tinve : the manner of building, bende the materials, be- fpake this frruuture to be much more modern than the . time of the firft foundation above-mentioned. Con- fiderabie quantities of wild hops grow near the abbey, which were probably planted here by the monks. At a little diftance hence ftands Bufhiield, ari' agreeable feat in a moft pleafant htuation, and good foil, environed with plantations of fruit and timber- trees ; and not far is the thriving village of Mill- Tov/n. About a mile eaft of Bufnfield, ftands. Caftlemain, fo called from an antient caftle that was eredled here, on a bridge over the river Mang. On, the reftoration, this caftle was kept in the hands of the,: crown, and a conftable is. appointed to guard it, (although it hath been a long time in ruins) v/ho has a fmall piece of land annexed to it for his falary^ Jt N 4 ' is 272 A TOUR rmotGH IRELAND. i<; but a mean inconfidernble village, and has nothing in it remarkable, but being fituated on the banks of the river Mang, which v^lnds from hence in a fcr- pentine ftream to the fea, and is deep enough for veffels of 50 tons and upwards, to fail up to the bridge, at high- water, where they may lie in foft cozy ground to difcharge their cargoes. To the eaft of Caftlemain, is Ballycrifpin, a good feat; adjacent to the houfe are excellent gar- dens and handfonie plantations, between which and Caftleniain, is the church of Kiitallagh, frequent- ed by the inhabitants of that village, and thofe of the neighbourhood, near v/hich is a decent parfonage houfe. The foil hereabouts is remarkably good for fruit trees, an example of which I faw at Ballygamboone, \vhcre there is an orchard, in which are fingle apple- trees that have produced (as the owner aflured me) three hogfliead of cyder each. I meafured the diame- ter of the oppofite boughs of one tree, th-e extre- mities of which were 50 feet afunder, which, if confidered as the diameter of a circle, the fuper- ficial content will be 1964 fquare feet, or 218 fquare yards, which is the quantity of ground that this tree covers ; and if we fiippofe an horfe when (land- ing, takes up a fpace of ground equal to three fquare yards, then there may ftand no iefs than 72 horfes under the drip of this apple-tree. Three miles W. of Caftlemain are the ruins of Caftle-Drum, which was deftroyed in 164 1. On the lands of Farnafs^ near Caftlemain, is a good chalybeate fpaw. Bctv/eeii the bays of Caftlemain and Tralee are a range of confiderablc high mountains, which divide thefe arms of the fea : they go by the general name of Slieve Mifs'. The higheft pike of thefe moun- tains, as meafured by a good inftrument by means of two ftations taken on the level ftrand iii 7"ralce bay, was A TOUR raRouGH IRELAND. ^73 was 750 yards perpendicular above the fea ; the oth^r mouniains that run wefterly go by various Irifh names, A remarkable one of thefc called Cahir-conrigh, or Cauir-ccnrigh. On the top of this mountain is a circle of mafly ftoncs, laid one on the other in the manner 0/ a Danifli intrenchment, feveral of tlien^ are from eight to len cubical feet, but they are all very rude. From the fituation of the place, it refembles a bea- con, or place of guard to alann the country 5 but from the prodigious fize of the ftones, it rather feems to be a monument of fome great a£lion per- formed near it, or perhaps a fepulchral trophy rai fed over fome eminent perfon. This piece of antlquicy ftands on the fummit of a conical mountain, wkicb is more than 700 yards above the level of the fea^ and forms a kind of pcninfula betv/een two very fim- bgys. The country people, from the height and fieep- nefs of it, and the largcnefs of the itones, will havv- it to be the work and labour of a giant ; and it feenis indeed v/enderful, hov/ ordinary human ftrength un- affifted by engines, or any but gigantic hands^ couli poffibly raife frones of fuch a prodigious weight,, to the fummit of fo fteep and high a mountain. From Cafllemain v/e proceeded vveftward, where, are large tracls of mountains, which have been for^.;, merly cultivated up to. the fummk. Several of tilem^' .which are but poor barren rocks, have great nuni- bers of old inclofures, and marks of culture on tlieir fides, vv^hich are now neglecled ^ this is a further err- cumilance, tending to prove that Ireland has been .better peopled formerly than it is at prefent. The country people are prcpofleired v/ith an opinion^ that moft of the old fences in thefe wild moun- tains v/ere the work of the Danes, and that they made a kind of beer of the heath which grows there 5 but thefe inclofures are more modern than N 5 the 274 A TOUR THROUGH I RELAN'D. the time when that northern nation inhabited Ire- land. Among other roads lately made in this part of the kingdom, that which we are now travelling, be- tween Caftlcmain and Dingle, ought to be noticed, the greater part being new, and laid out ih as direil a line as could poffibly be drawn between the two places. The former road, befides its having been tmeven, rocky, and rugged for carriages, went in fo winding a courfe, that the diftance by the chain was thirty-one Irlfh meafured miles, eftimated only at twenty ; but the new way is but twenty-two Irifti mites, by which travellers have liot only an excellent road between thefe places, but alfo nine miles lefs to travel. To the fouth of this road is Inch ifland, as it is called, although properly an ifthmus. It lies- on the north fide of the entrance of Caftlem.ain harbour, and confifts of one continued range of fand-hills, fome of which are thirty or forty feet high. Proceeding onward to Dingle, we paffed on our left hand the caftle of Minard, which ftands on the fea- coaii:, midway between Inch ifland and Dingle, There is a good quarry of brown free-ftone at nO great diflance from it, of which the quoin-ftones of feveral of the old buildings^ in this county are com- pofed. • Dingle is the only town in this barony, it had a caftie built about the year 1580, which is faid to have been the firit that was erefted in this place, the vaults of v/hich are nov/ ufed as the town-gaol. Several of the houfes are built in the Spanifh fafliion, with ranges of ftone balcony windows, this place being fonneriy much frequented by fhips of that nation, who traded with the inhabitants, and came to rifh on this coaft ; moft of them a;re of ftone, with marble door and window frames. M^nydf them have dates on them as old as queen Elizabeth's time, and fome A: T^).IJJR: THROUGH IRELAND.; 275^ fpme earlier^ but the befl: modern edifice in this town belongs to the knight of Kerry, at the back of whick are large crardens, regularly difpofed and kept in good order. The town ftands at the bottom of a fmall-but iafe harbour, at the mouth of which large veflels may rid^ fecure ; the channel lies on the weft fide, and fhips of an hundred tons may come ,up to the town. Here is a barrack for a company of foot, and a tole- rable good Saturday market. The parlili church, dedicated to St. James, is fald to have been formerly built at the charge of the Spaniards^ It was originally very large, but moft of -the.t)ld ftrudiure is gone to ruin, a part only of which kept in repair for divine fervice, and is called St. Majrv's chapel. On the lands of Ballybeg, a mile nortli--ea{} of Dingle, is a vitriolic fpaw. About a mile foath>- weft from Dingle is Burnham, formerly called Ba!~ lingolin caftle, deftroyed in 1641 ; it is now a plea- fant feat, fituated delightfully on the fouth-weil: fide of Dingle harbour, of which it commands an agree- able profpe. About a mile weft from it is the har- bour of V^CMtry, which fituation, {o near the greru weftern ocean, is a great detriment to the growtii ot trees, the bleak lea winds conftantly nipping the fmaller branches and (hoots, when they rife to an.y confide;^ai;>le height: the only poffiblc remedy f>r which is to plant them in clumps clofe togethsr:y. by which method, although the outward trees^ vv ill falter ^ yet thofe in the middle v/Ill be {heltered, and thrive tolerably well. The harbour of Ventry is quite open and expc^fjd to the fouth-weft winds, but tolerably defended fruir: the north and -eaft. -It is divided from that of Diiigle by a narrow ifthmus. The weftern point is c.i!ied Cahir Trant, where there is an old DaniQi intrcnch- ment, and another at Rathanane^ a ruined caftle. N 6 The 2^6 A TOUR THROUGH IRELAN0. The Irifh have a tradition, that this ifthmus v/as the laft ground in Ireland that was in the poffeffion of the Danes ; it might have been eafily defended by an handful of men againft a large army. There is another ifthmus between the bottom of Smerevv^ick harbour and Ventry ; but this has a greater breadth than that between Ventry and Dingle j the laft being tv/o miles over, the other not ojie. To the weft of that of Ventry is the parifti of Dunqueen, the outward point of which is called Dunmore-h^ad, and is the moft weftern point of all Europe ; the Irifh call it Ty-Vorney Geerane, or Mary Geerane's-houfe, a point as much celebrated by them as John of Gropt's houfe, which is the utmoft extremity of North Britain, About a mile and half from this promontory ftands the largeft of tfie Blafket or Ferriter's iflands, called alfo the Blafques^ probably from Biaofc or Blaofg, in IriQi a fcale or ihell, being fuppofed to have been fcaled off the con- tinent of Ireland. Thefe iflands were twelve ia number, but four of them are only rocks. htshao^ The great Blafquet ifland, oppofite to this plade, js faid by tradition to have, been formerly joined to the continent, and the country people Ihew an old ditch, which, they fay, points to an oppoftte one at Dunmore. The found between that ifland and the main land is of a great depth, and the currents of both ebb and flood fet through it with prodi- gious force and rapidity. The ifland called Inninfmore, ©rthe Great Ifland, is about three miles in length. It hath an high moun- tain, with fome good arable grounds towards the north-eaft end. On this ifland are the ruins of a very antient church. 1 The fecond of thefe in magnitude they call Inrti^^ mac-Keilane, or Mac-Keilane*s ifland ; it lies feven miles v/eft by fouth, from the head land of Dunmore. As it ftands too far out in the great weftern ocean, and A TOUR TTl^dtrca IRELAND. iff find the lands being low, and too bleak to j;fFord flielter to inhabitants, there have been none here for many years paft, but there ftands in it the ruins of an antient chapel, in which an old ftone chalice and a baptifmal font alfo of ftone ftill remain, likewifeqi fmall cell or hermitage, being an arch of ftone neatly put together without any mortar or cement, which admits of no rain through its roof. There is one of the fame kind at Fane, in Ventry parifh, in a ruinous condition, and another entire one at Gallerus ; the Irifli fay that thefe cells were ere£led by the firft mif- fionaries, who preached the gofpel in thefe parts ; they have the fame appearance within fide as the moft antient Roman arches, and were, like them, built without mortar. They were probably the firft edifices of ftone that v/erc eredted in Ireland, and may poiTibly challenge even the round tov/ers, which ftand near feveral of our old cathedral churches, as to point of antiquity. Their form feems to have been taken from that of the fmall huts, m.ade of bended wattles, by the old inhabitants of the Britifh iflands, which being ftuck in the ground and bent, fo as to form an arch at the top, nearly refembled the form of thefe antient cells. The third ifiand is called Inis-ni-Broe, or Qiiern ifland, from its round form. This iiland lies at no great diftance from the fecond, and about four miles from the great Blafquet. The fourth ifland is called Inis-Tufkart or Ini- flmigh, i. e. the northern ifland. It is above aa Irifh mile in length, and hath no buildings on it, except one of the cells above mentioned, it being not inhabited. Near the great ifland are three fmall ones, the firft is called Beg-Innis, i. e. the little ifland, which ijs a very fertile fpot, confifting of about fixteen acres, that will fatten thirty bullocks every fummer : the grafs is moftly clover, and cinque-foil, and is conftaatly 278 A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND.' conftantly enriched by the fpray of the fea, which always leaves a confiderable quantity of fait behind it ; the other two are ufed likewifc to fatten cattle, but they are fmaller. Four miles weft-north-weft from the great ifland, is an high ftupendous rock, on the fide of which rifes a fmaller pyramid, not quite fo high. In the fpring feafon this rock is covered with an infinite number of fea-fowl^ which breed upon it, and great numbers are hatched on the other iflands, which are deftroyed by the country people, chiefly for their fea- thers, of which they co]le6l feveral hundred weight, during the months of April, May, and June. Moft of thefe iflands are flocked with flieep and blackcattle ; the latter are very difficult to be landed on theniy being generally carried in when about a year old ; and on forne of the iflands they grow fo wild that their owners hunt them down, and are obliged to kill them before they can carry them ofF. The hides, flefh, and tallow, fufnciently pay for their pafture, for as thefe iflands are not inhabited, no profit can be made of their milk. All of them are well (locked v/ith rabbits, which have fcarceany other enemy than the hawks and eagles, and they devour great num- bers of them. The hawks of this coaft are remark- ably good, and were formerly in much eileem : thofe of the iflands are accounted better than the fal- cons that are bred on the continent, becaufe they are always on the wing, and conftantly fly over to tha. main land in fearch of prey. They feldom kill fea- fowl, nor will they feed on their fleih, except they be kept long fafl:ing. There is a fmall bird, v/hlch is faid to be peculiar to thefe iflands, called by the Irifii Gourdet, the Englifh name of which I am at a lofs for, nor do I find it mentioned by naturalifts ; it is fomevvhat larger than a fparrov/, the feathers of the back are darkj and thofe of the belly are white, the bill is ftraitj - A fOUR THROUGH IRELAND. 279 ftrait, fhort, and thick, and it is web-footed. When they are firfl: taken, • the country people afBrm, that they caft up about a tea-fpoonful of a very fetid oil out of their bills: they are almoft one lump of fat; v/hen roalled of a moft delicious tafte, and are reckoned to exceed an ortelan, for which reafon the gentry hereabouts call them the Irlfli ortelan : thefe birds are v/orthy of being tranfmitted a great way to market, for ortelans, it is well known, are brought from France to fupply the markets of London. Having done with thefe iflands, we proceeded eaft* ward. On the north fide of Smerev/ick harbour are the remains of the fortification, called by the Spa- niards Fort del Ore, which confiiled of a curtain twenty yards long, a ditch, and two baftions ; it was thrown up near the edge of a clift that formed a fmall ifthmus of about ten yards fquare, fur- rounded almoft by the fca. The upper part of the ifthmus was cut away, inftead of which they had a draw-bridge to pafs over it into the peninfula. This work was made in 1579, by fome Spaniards and Italians. I'he country people fay, that the Spaniards buried the pope's confecrated banner fomewhero nccvt* this place, with a confiderable quantity of treafure. It is certain that a few years ago, feveral croilets of pure gold were difcovered on the lands near a fmall chapel, which the Spaniards had eredled about a mile from the fort. Between the harbour of Smerewick and Ferriter'^s creek, the land lies low, and hath been much co- vered with fand by the fea and wind of late years. This ifthmus is hardly a mile broad, is growing nar- rower every winter, and will probably become an ifland. There are three remarkable hills on this land near the coaft, which feamen -call the Three Sifters, A ruined caftle alfo ftands hercy called by ' . the 28o A TO.UR THROUGH IRELAND. the Irifh Caftle Sybil, which fignifies Elizabeth Caftle. Towards the bottom of Smerewick harbour, ftands the caftle of Gallerus, near which is a large frefli water lake, frequented in fome winters by con- iiderable flocks of wild fwans> Near Gallerus, is one of the curious ftone cells, intirely perfeil. The door is five feet high, and about two and a half broad, at one end of the build- ing, and at the other end is a fmall neat window, the fides and bottom of which confift only of one ftone, extremely well cut, v/ith hardly any mark of the tool upon it. The room is about 20 feet long by JO broad, and 20 feet high, on the outfide, to the top oi^ the arch, and the walls, are about four feet thick. The whole is fo neatly jointed within fide, that it would be very difficult to put the point of a knife be- tween any of the ftones, which are dove-tailed, for the moft part, into each other, and placed without the leaft particle of any kind of mortar : the fide walls incline together from the bottom to the top, forming a kind of parabolic curve. It feems difficult to determine how thefe buildings were ere6led, as moft of our modern vaults and arches were either built with cement, or hewn out of the fpiid rock. Some think, that an heap of earth was firft raifed, in the form of theinfideof the cell^ and that they built over it, and wedged in the key- ftones at the top, over which are a range of loofe ftones laid like a ridge; and the ftrudlure being thus fmifhed, they carried out all the earth at the doorj and laftly, fmoothed the walls on the infide with chiffels, &c* The ftone is a browm free-ftone, brought from thecliftsof the fe^ fhore, which cuts readily, and is very durable. This parifli, and the church, is named KiImel-> chedorj i. e, Mejchedor's churchy and is faid to have been A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. 281 been built by the Spaniards, who formerly erected many other churches hereabouts. Proceeding ftill eaftward, at about five miles north of Dingle, ftands St. Brandon's Hill, efteemed one of the higheft in the county, being little, if at all, inferior to Mangerton, or the Reeks. The foot of this mountain is wafhed by the fea, on the north, and Dingle Bay lying to the fouth of it, occafions it to be frequently covered with a cap of clouds. There is, befides an oratory or chapel, dedicated to St. Bran- don, a fine fpring of water near its fummit. The bay between Brandon-head and the iflands, called theMagheries, is extremely dangerous, being full of funken rocks, befides the frequent fqualls from the mountains prevent any veflel from entering therein, Thefe iflands lie at the mouth of this dangerous bay, but they have not been hitherto noticed in any chart or map of this coaft. An ifth- mus, called Maghery-beg, forms the eaft fide of Brandon Bay. On this land there are a frefh and falc-water fpring, almoft contiguous to each other, the latter is of a brackifii tafte, and feems to be no other than the fea-water filtered through the fand, which being very loofe, and the filtration thereby quickly performed, the fea-water carries almoft the greater part of its falts through it, and fome people, who have drank of it, fay, that it purges gently. In proceeding from thence, we left caftle Gregory on our left hand, near the coaft of Tralee Bay, which bay continues on the fame fide of the road, till we arrived at Tralee, which is fituated north of Caftlehaven, not above four miles in aftraight line, but the intervention of mountains renders it much more. However, there is a good road made at tht? eaft end of them, between thofe towns. Tralee, or Traly, is fituated on the bank of the fmall river Leigh, which empties itfelf at the bottom of the bay of Tralee. It is the (hire town of the county. 2§2 A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND./ county, and is incorporated. In the midfl of the tov/n is a fquare environed on the north fide with the county-court-houfe, and the fhire goal, and on the other fide with houfes and {hops. Through the middle of the town runs the river Leigh, over which, are fome fmall ftone bridges. Out of four caftles formerly in this town, only one rerhains ; and fome. good vaults are all that is left of an antient convent. The remaining caftle was the chief feat of the earls of Defmond, adjacent to which are good gardens, and an handfome bowling-green. There are alfo large plantations of old fruit and timber trees, with feme modern- improvements. This town is fituated, about a mile from the fea, to which diftance a veflbl of 50 or 60 tons may come, and at high water fmall boats row up to it. Its chief advantage arifes from, its being the county town, and from ttie money fpent at the affizes, elections for members of parliament,, and the like public meetings. Its markets are well, fupplied with all kinds of provifion, and towards autumn, confiderable quantities of fine herrings arc taken in the adjacent bay. The Chalybeate fpaw, about tv/o miles from this place, fituated on the . north fide of the bay, in a fine air, has drawn feveral^ families of fafhion hither, and caufed confiderable, funis of money to be expended. Killenne is about, a mile north-eaft of Tralee, a delightful feat. Near,, the houfeare plantations, and a good park, in which a lead mine was difcovered a few years ago. About^ a mile eaft of Tralee ftands Racrafs Church, an old. edifice. Not more than a mile fouth is a good feat called Cloghers, which we paflTed on our left hand, and proceeded to Ballyfeedy, two miles fouth-eaft of Tralee. From a mount above the houfe is a pleafant prof-. pexSt of the adjacent country, and feveral gentlemen's feats. Here are feveral confiderable improvements,, and good' plantations. We cojitinue^ our courfe in a. foutheru A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. I'Sj fc'iiihern dire£lion from Tralee over the new road to Currans, another good feat, which ftands on a rifing ground not far from the river Mang, three miles' weft by fouth from Caftle-Illand. Between which town and Killarney, is Teernigoofe, near the river Flefk, which, about a mile to the v/eft of this place^^^, empties itfelf into the river Mang : this is not to be • confounded with the other Fleflc, before-mentioned, which runs into the lake of Killarney. FromCurrans is an agreeable profpe£t weftward to Caftlemain Bay. : From Currans we proceeded north-eaft on the banks of the Mang river to Kilcow, a pleafant feat near Caftle Illand, which is about a mile further north, andL formerly called the caftle of the ifland of Kerry, the .,, ruins of which caftle are ftill remaining. Round . the walls, the river Mang, being here but an incon- fiderable ftream, flowed in a kind of ditch, over which were formerly drawbridges, portcullices, &c* In ant;ent times it was reckoned a place of ftrength, 'The lands round it have been greatly improved lately, ty reclaiming bogs, as well as by new roads, one oif which runs from Abbey-feal, in the county of Lime- rick, to Caftle-Ifland ; and from the laft mentioned, place, to Killarney: which roads are carried in di- rect lines, over mountains, through bogs, and mo- rafies, having feveral ftone bridges eredled on them, with deep cuts, or ditches on either fide, for the carrying off the water, whereby the land on both fides is become confiderably drier than before. • . One of thefe roads runs from Caftle-Ifland eaft- ward, towards the bounds of the county of Cork, from whence, on old negle£led road, came by Black- water-Bridge from Newmarket, which is extremely rocky and dangerous ; and yet, before the nevv^ one leading from Mill-ftreet to Killarney was made, this was the principal road of communication be- tween the counties of Cork, and Kerry, on which a/ facetious judge, who went to Munfter circuit fome A TOUR THROVGH IRELAND. fome years ago, faid to his brother, when their coach was overturned, that the fcripture was then fulfilled, for The judges were overthrown in ftony places." Between Blackw^ater-Bridge, and Killarney, are the ruined church of Killmurry, and three fmall ruined caftles. In defcending the mountain towards Caftle-Ifland, the country hath a very agreeable afpe<3: 5 the foil being mollly a fine limeftone ground ; and yet there ;ire fewer improvements, and lefs tillage, here, than in other places^ where the land is not fo proper for it. In Caftle-Ifland, are a decent parifh church, a' good parfonage houfe, a foot barrack, a feffion and market houfe, with an handfome affembly room for dancing. There are too, fome tolerable inns here. From Caftle-Ifland, we turned north-weft in order to vifit Ardfert, which obliged us to pafs near. Tralee, about three miles to the north-eaft, of which*- place ftands Tulligarron^ near which Saunders, the pope's nuncio, who was fent over in 15795 with a confecrated banner, and the pope's authority to curfe and blefs at his will and pleafure, all fuch as affifted or refifted the rebels who oppofed queei^ Elizabeth's government, died miferably of an ^gu^ and flux, brought on him by want and famine, in the wood of Clonlifli, in 1582. Leaving Ratafs and Tralee on the left, we went to, Ballybeggan, which ftands about two miles eaft and by north, from Tralee. It had formerly been an high and ftrong caftle, which was reduced during the wars in king James's time. In which time it was a noted pafs between Tralee and Caftle-Ifland. Near the caftle is an handfome modern houfe, v/hich was built foon after the revolution, the old houfe having been burnt down. Here are fome good old improvements, which efcaped the univerfal devafta- tion of the times, particularly fome fine avenues of walnut J A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. 285 walnut, ch^dvtit.^ and other trees ; with a large, old, hurt thriving crchriid. planted in a rich limeftone ground, beneath which are feveral fub terraneous chambers lined with ftalailical exudations. Thefe caves have a communication with each other; and there is a large ftream of running water that flows under ground, which empties itfelf at a confiderable diftance into the open air : and, and what is very furprizing, this under-ground current is not defti- tute of fifti, as not^ only eels, but alfo trout have been taken out of it. Brom Ballybeggan, we proceeded northward to Ardfert, a bifhop's fee, and a borough town, but now greatly decayed. This is the principal fee in the county, having been held in cojnmendam with that of Limerick ever fmce the reftoration. The ruins of the nave, and choir of the cathedral, which is dedi- cated to St. Brandon, is 26 yards long, and but 10 broad. On the fouth was an arcade of four Gothic arches, which formed an ifle on that fide ; the eaft window was large and lightfome, being 26 feet high. In the church are a confiderable number of grave- ftoncs without any infcription, one of which hath the effigies of a bifhop carved in relievo, lying in his Pontificalibus, fald to have been the tomb of \ bifhop Stack who died in 1488. There was proba- bly another ifle originally on the north, to render the building uniform, for that fide feems to have been rebuilt, not long before the demolition of the church, which happened in the wars of 1641, and hath re- mained fo ever fmce, except a fmall part, which ,is ufed for divine fervice, and is kept in good repair. Towards the weft end are two detached chapels, faid to have belonged to the dignitaries of this cathedral. In this cathedral are the remains of a fine figure in alto-ia-relievo of St. Brandon, it's patron, with his crozier and mitre* Oppofitc 286 A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. Oppofite to the weft end of the cathedralj are the ruins of one of the anticnt round towers ^ it was 120 feet high, a great part of which fell down in 1771. 'It was built moftly of a dark kind of marble, and therefore the more remarkable, as they are more geaerally of freeftone. There are here at prefent but one or two good houfes, a few cabbins, and fome old ruins, among others is the antient manfion-houfe of the lords of Kerry, which was demolifhed in the v/ars of 1641 ; tiis was a ftately building, ere;es over the Brick. The prefent houfe confifts of a large building, with wings on each fide, and feveral offices, that in- clofe an handfome area; in one of thefe wings is a chapel, the v/alls of vv^hich are painted in frefco by a foreigner, called John Souillard, being copies of the celebrated cartons of Raphael ; })articalarly the laiiie man healed by Peter and John, Elymas the forccrcr^ Paul preaching at Athens, &c. The figures are aa large as the life ; and over the door, between feftoons and other decorations, are the heads of Homer, Vir- gil, Milton, and Pope, all in claro obfcuro by the fame hand. The village of Lixnaw confifts of one ftreet of tolerable good houfes, not far to the eaft of which is a noble avenue of h3fty iir-trees, terminated by a mount, whereon is eredted a monumental tower, be- neath which, in a vault, the late earl-of Kerry lies interred. This mount affords a fine profpcit of the ndjacent country, which, for a confiderable v/ay round this feat, is a dead flat. A\\ kinds of timber- trees flourifti furprifmgly v/ell in this foil, v/hich is deep and rich. About two miles fouth of Llxnav/ is a feat called Crotto, which {lands in an agreeable fituation, em- bellifhed with good plantations. Betv/een w^hich feat and Ardfert are the ruins of the antient abbey of Odorney, a venerable remain of antiquity. From Lixnaw we proceeded north-eaft to Liftowel caftle^s fituated pleafantly on the north fide of the river Feal j from whence we turned weflward, and proceeded by the banks of that river to the fea Ihore, jiear the O mou^t^h 200 A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. mouth of the Shannon, to vifit the caflles in that part, before v/e proceeded to Limerick ; the fliore is here partly compofed of high fand hills, and partly of flecp clifts, on whicJh laft the ruins of fame caflles are boldly fituated, as thofc called Ballybunian, Dupe, and Lick; this latter was erected on a rock, almoft furrounded by the fea, to which there was formerly a draw-bridge. The caille of Dune was alfo built on an high clift ftanding perpendicular aver the ocean. Between thefe caftles, fome years ago, there was a kind of volcano, which burnt for fome time. The clifts are of an amazing height, and when the fun ihijies on them, appear as if they were finely gilded. At the bottom they are full of large caves, into which the fea rolls a great way, and the fea- calves or feals fport innumerably; and whilft the waves are foaming and breaking below, there are three very beautiful cafcades of freih water, which falling from the top of the perpendicular clifts, are almoft quite difiipated before they reach the fea, infomuch, that the mift arifing from one of them feems to be the fmoke of another volcano. Detached from the clift in the ocean ftands a curious fmgle rock ; it is a regular fquare pyramid, in height and fize fomewhat refembling the obelifk at Stilorgan, and has on its very top an eagle's neft ; and that art might not be wanting where nature has been fo bountiful in its beautie?, the two caftles of Dune and Lick ftanding on the brow of the high clifts, that jut out like heads into the ocean, look as if they were defigned to guard the entrance of this roman- tic bay. The high clift, called by the country people the Devil's caftle, ftands to the north of Lick ; it is inac- ceflible to any creature but fowls, and has an eagle's neft on its fummit. The whole ftiore hereabouts has a great variety of romantic caves and caverns formed A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND/ iqt- by the dafhing of the waves ; in fome places are high open arches, and in others, impending rocks ready ta tumble down upon the firft ftorm ; and not far from tlie laft mentioned caftle is a deep hole in the earth, feveral yards from the verge of the clift, into which the fea has an ingrefs, and where it fometimes makes a ppdigious roaring noife. The ruins of Beal caftle ftand near the mouth of the Shannon, in a fine fituation, commanding a noble profpeft of the Shannon for feveral miles up the country, which river is here three leagues broad, but it may be rather term.ed an arm of the lea. Near this caftle is a large warren well flocked with rab- bits, from whence a fine pleafant ftrand runs along the Shannon towards Carrigfoile, and the fnore above it is beautifully v/ooded down to high water mark^ which in fummer renders this place extremely agree- able, and is in winter the haunt of a prodigious quantity of woodcocks and other birds, infomuch that a fingle perfon hath fliot fifty brace in a fore- noon, in the extent of one or two miles at moft. In this agreeable fituation ftands Littur, an houfe and feat, which commands a fine view of the river Shannon ; and more to the eaft is Afdee. Near Afdee is a large inclofure of ftone, called in Irilh a bawn, formerly built as a place of ftrength, topreferve cattis from being carried off" by an enemy. To the eaft of the laft mentioned place, is the caftle of Carrigfoile, built in a romantic and ftrong fituation, in a fmal! ifland, v/hich ftands in a baftion formed bv the river Shannon. It v/as defended oti the land fide, oppofite the ifiand, by double walls, the outermoft having fquare flankers^ aaid the inward round baftions, built in the infancy of the art of for- tification. At the back of the caftle is an illand, which defended it from being battered by fhipping. Near this caftle is Ruiheen, an elegant feat that ftands on a kind of ifthmus, formed by the river Shan- O 2 non. 202 A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. non, and a creek which runs up from Carrigfoile to the abbey of Liflaghin. The plantations here are large and well grown, and happy in agreeable points of perfpedlive, particularly to the ifland of Scattery, formerly Inifcalhy, an ifland in the Shannon ; alfo to the caftle of Carrigfoile, and the ruined friary of Liflaghhi, whofe tteeple, choir, and feveral other parts, ftill remain. From^ Carrigfoile we vifited the ifland of Scattery, now without inhabitants, though formerly it had eleven churches, the ruins of which, .as well as an en- tire round tower 120 feet high, are yet to be feen ; among the ruins are thofe of its antient cathedral, w^here we remarked a ftone that terminated the top of the altar window, which reprefents the head of St. Senan, to whom the church was dedicated, with his mitre boldly executed. \Vc were furprifed to iind it fo little defaced by time ; but this may be at- tributed to its fituation, by its being fo well defended from the fouth and eaft by the fine round tower and the contiguous churches. Near to this church they fliew his monument ; from thence we vifited Inis Cailtre, or the Holy Ifland, another uninhabited ifliand in the Shannon, which prefented us with the remains of feven fine churches, and another round tower entire, which befpeak in miniature an elegance of tafte in building. From thence we returned and vifited Terbert, which flands near the bounds of this county and Limerick. This houfe is finely fituated, and commands an ex- tenfive view of the river Shannon, where it is ren- dered above one half narrower, being confined by a point of land, that ftretches itfelf from the north, or county of Clare fide of that river, towards Terbert, the eail and weft fides of which open into two capacious bays. It A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. 293 It has likewife a fine profpeff: up the river tovv^ards Limerick, and a deep bay on the fouth fide, v/liere itand the ruins of the caitle of Giin, From Terbert we croiled the Shannon, and entered the county of Clare, and proceeding northward, ar- rived at the town of that name, fituated at the con- fluence of the river Fergus v/ith the Shannon ; from thence two miles further north is Ennis, the fliire town, which is about fourteen mijes norlh-well: oi" Limerick; from thence we proceeded to Goru u pooi village in the county of Galway, and nro\u!H:e of Conaught ; when purAiing our journey t]irouc;!i :i mountainous dreary tract, wc palled to Eyres Coari, and turning eaft ward three miles, crofTed the Shannon at Banagher-bridge to Ferbane-bridge, and from thence accompanied by the Grand Canal, returned to Dublin, which compleated our Third Tour, in v/hich we did not confine ourielves to the diredt road, but made an irregular zizzag courfe, juft as objects f.)- licited our attention, in order to take a more com - prehenfive view of the counties of Cork and Kerry., as they abound with materials entertaining* curious^, and miportant. JOURNEY L ^94 j JOt^-RNEY THE FOURTH; FRO M DUBLIN, - TOT H t ; North-Eaft, North and Weftern Part OF THE ''''^l.N GDOM OF IRELA"^^'^^ .viiK[fibi*i^^ V/ xv± ur X IV ^^uM^o\ WE fet ofF from Dublin near the Lying-in Hofpltal, and pafied by lord Charlemont*s tniirino, conftru(^ed under the diredtion of McflTrs. Adams. The building is a fquare of 6o feet to each fide, from the top of which there is a view of Dublin, the bays the fea, Hoath Hill, &c. The gardens, in- deed, ar^ not extenfive, yet are ornamented with tafte. From thence we proceeded to Santry, a fmall place, about three miles from Dublin, leaving a road to Clontarf, and the ftrand on the right ; from thence pafled through Tobberbunny, to Swords, at fix miles from Dublin, where I faw one of the round tov/ers, (leventyrthree feet high) already fpoken of, fo pe- ■Culiar to Ireland, It is a market town, and remark- able only for having been the i4jnd^zy n-rb From A- TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. 2^5 Froiu thence we made no dlgreffions, but went firait on eight miles further, to Balrudery, a poft- town, and a good thoroughfare to the north, fituated not above one miie from the Irifh channel, nearly oppofite St. Patrick's Ific, which we vifited, to fee the ruins of a church, dedicated to St. Patrick. It is faid, this ifland was the firft fpot on which that faint landed after his arrival in Ireland ; and that the church likewife was built under his ov/n immediate diredtion, at v/hich time the ifland was parted from the main land by only a fmall ftream of water at fpring tides, at other times acceffible on foot ; but tlie interval is nov/ impaffable at the loweft ebb of the tide, and on that account the facred pile has been fuiFered to fall to ruins. On the fliore near this ifland ftands the filling town of Skerries, to whofe inhabitants the faid church originally ferved as a place of worfnip ; to fupply which, they have now built another, and chriftened it St. Patrick's New Church. This town fupplies the adjacent diftrid: for more than twenty miles inland, and particularly Dublin, with fiOi. The houfes are little better tbpji cabins, pofted very irregularly, for it can hardly be faid there is a fino-le ftreet in the whole town, tho' it confifts of a hundred houfes. The country herea- bouts is chiefly divided into fmall enclofures, few ex- ceeding three acres, feparated by mounds of earth only, in general; fome few, indeed, are ftuek ina flight manner, with furze, willow, &c. ^ ^ --^-^ The fides of the roads from Dublin, hither;^ar% bordered with houfes, or more properly cabins. The roads are excellent, and remarkably ftrai^ht. In travelling in one direftion you meet with only one toll-gate in the fame county; but what is faved in tolls, maybe readily difpofed of in charity, if a travel-- er has humanity in his breaft, and money in^dii's pocket, as the roads fwarm with miferable objecl;^^ that crawi out of their cabins, whofc very features O 4 befpeak 5^q6 a T O U ^ . mMutJ^' I R E LAN D. bcfpcak an extreme of poverty and diiliefs, that v/oulJ foften the moil obdurate heart. In our. road north- ward, we palled St. Doojogh's Weil ; ao , ancient Hexagonal ftone covering, erefted over a large fpring of very fine water. Scon after we qy itted sthe coimty of Dublin, and entered that of Meath, over a flreani that empties itfelf into the Iriih fea at German's Town. V/e then turned weft ward to Dun leek, a frnall poft town and borough, that fends two meni^ b:rs to parliament. From thence v/e proceeded to Trim, twenty three miles from Dublin, the princr- pal town of the county formerly it had a caftle, the ruins of v/hich, and that of an abbey, remain ; and now there is a barrack for a troop of horfe. Its church , is called the Greek church. Here wc made no ftay, but went to Athboy, a fmall place, three miles northward; from whence we continued to Kells, another pcft and borough tov/n. Kells is a fmall town^ with a ro-lnid tower in the church yard. In the market-place is a ftone crofs with bafib- rclievos, repre Tenting ftags and dogs, and near it the remnants. of three other croftes. About a mile from Kells is the feat of lord Bec- tlve. 'I'he houfe, which is three ftories in height, contains a range of eleven Vv^indows ; and two wings, of a fingle ftory, are annexed to, it, each having fourteen windows^in front. The whole build- ing, both infide and outfide, is quite plain, and very neat, but one of the mcft convenient dwellings I have ever feen. On leaving this place we returned through Navan to Drogheda, f-iuated on the river Royne, about a mile from the fea-, and confiftirjg of two chief ftreets, which interfeft each other, at right :nngles. ^ he I'holfel, or town houfe, is a handfome ftone-build- ing. About two miles from; the town is a fquare ftone obelillc, of 20 feet to. each fide at tl)e bafe, and about 150 .feet high ; it is erected on a rock on the A TOUR THROUGH IRE^LAND. 297 edge of the river Boyne. The propereft v/ay to give an account of it is by inferting the infcriptions, which, are cut in capitals, on the four fides of the bafc. Sacred to the glorious memory, of King William the Third, Who on the firft of July 1690, pafTed the river near this place to attack James the Second, at the head of a popifli army advantageoufly ported on the fouth fide of it, and did on that day, by a fuccefsful battle, fecure to us and to our poflerity, our liberty, laws, and religion. In confequence of this a£lion James the Second left this kingdom and fled to France. This memorial of our deliverance w^as ere£led in the ninth year of the reign of king George the Second, the firft ftone being laid by Lionel Sackville, duke of Dorfet, Lord-Lieutenant of the kingdom of ireiani 1736. This monument was ere«£led by the grateful contribution of feveral proteftants of Great Britain and Ireland^ Reinhard duke of Schomberg in paffing this river died bravely fighting in defence of liberty, Firft of July, M D C X C 298 A TOUR THRoueri IRELAND. Underneath the chief infcriptlon, are four line§ iii Latin, to inform thofe who do Hot underftand Englifh, that the duke of Dorfet laid the firft ftone. It is certainly the grandeft modern obelifK in Eu- rope. It may not be improper to mention here that the glorious memory of king William the Third" is a {landing toaft at almoft every proteftant Irifh vjtable. At Cluan Mac Nois, in this neighhburhood, are feveral remains of antient grandeur, particularly Hately croffes curioufly carved in ftone, with very antient Irifli infcriptions on them. Many infcripti* ons in Hebrev/ and Greek have been dug up. From thence we proceeded to Dunleer, fix miles further north. On the road to which place, the in« clofures are chiefly made of loofeftones piled on each other, without miortar, or evt^n clay, and the roads fprinkled v/ith v/retched cabins, m^ore like hogfties than thedv/ellings of human beings, who too frequent- ly intrude upon the viev/, and folicit charity. Dun- leer is a poft town, and ftands on a fniall fiv^r, that empties itfelf into the Irlfh fea. In our way from Drogheda to Dunleer, we turned out of the road on the left hand, to fee the round tower, at Monefter- bolce, which is about no feet in height ; but one of the fides is broken at the top. It gradually dimi- nifhes upwards (as I remarked of all that we faw be- fore,) from its bafe, v/hich in this was about eighteen feet in diameter. Near it are three crofles ; the largeft, about eighteen feet high, is compofed of two Hones, which are faid to have been fent from Rome. It is covered with baffb relievos, but through age, the figures are rendered very imperfeft. There aie two other crolles in this church-yard, on one of which is a bafTo relievo of a human figure, fitting, and a dog cn its hind l<;gs, on each fide* The other crofs ap-* pears to have been broken, as it is not above fix feet high. FiQyn Dunleer v/e vifitedjAtherdee, and Louth, ... ^, 0 when A .TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. 299 when.we again returned eadward, and after feven miles- riding along the Tea fhore arrived at Dundalk, where lord Clanbrailil has a houfe with fine gardens. Dun- dalk is eighteen miles north of Drogheda, has an open bay of its own name, but a very mean harbour,; being fo fliallow at lov/ water, that people walk over it dry (hod, and is little ufed but by hfhing boats,, It has been fortified, (though now difmantled ) as may^ be feen by the ruins of the walls, and acaftle deftroy-r ed in 1641. From thence we proceeded to Carling- ford, eight" miles diftant. Here is one of the beft harbours in Ireland, at the. mouth of the river Newry, on the fouth fide of a Jarge bay of its name, v/here- ,tlre on the grqund, like a huge gun, without break- ing to pieces, fo wonderfully hard and binding v/as the cement of this work. Caftle-Vellen, now changed into Caftle-Wiiliam, near two miles north of Briansford, is pleafantly Htuated on the fide of a fmall lake, called after the jiame of the place. A mountain, part of the manor, cloathed with wood, and a good profpect of the fea JtQ.the fouth, enliven the natural wild beauties around ft. The parifh church of Drumgoolan is north- weft of CafHe-Vellen about three miles, and is re- markable for little eife than aftone-crofs, ere£led about thirtfj feet from the church door, compofed of one ^i-^lire^ coarfe gritty ftone fixed in a pedeftai three feet ^nd. a .hal£_ fqiiare, and four feet above the furface., y%,.fliaft or crofs part is ten feet high, one foot thick, 3o8 A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. thick, and eighteen inches broad. The v/ant of let- ters on it, and the coarfenefs of the work fliew its an- tiquity. North of Drumgoolan the country is rugged and mountainous, and more employed in grazing than -'tillage j for at the bottoms, and in the bofom of th^ iai^e extended mountains, called Slieve-Croob, Sliev^ na-boi!-Trogh, and other mountains hereabouts, are to be feen more black cattle than in any other part rjf the country. From thence we proceeded to Rathfryland, four miles fouth-^eaii of Donoghmore, and near feven eaft ot Newry, on an eminence, having four great ftrait roads leading up to it and centring in the town. It IS built on a free-ftone rock, of a firm clofe 2:rit, fit for building, with which the adjacent lands abound, and is eafily cut into fquares, pillars, urns, and vafes. At one end of the ftreet is a fmall decent church. Here the diiTenters have a meeting-houfe, and a little fouth of the town is a horfe courfe. On the fummit of the hill aie the ruins of an old caftle, which has been much larger than at prefent. Near i this place is a feat called Lihze, at the foot of a hill ; ' and about a mile north-eaft is Ballyroney, another ieat, ne^ar the verge of a pleafant ■ lake of the fame name. South of Rathfryland the nK)untaIns of Iveach begin to rear their lofty heads, and, except a few cottages, little elfe occurs to view, v/e returned therefore towards Nev/ry, half a mile eaft of which are the rocks of Creeve, where v/e faw the remains of an old chapel, whofe name is loft. A little further and more than a mile eaft of Newry is Crown-bridge, lo called from a Danifh rath, feated in the neigh- bourhood, which bears fome refemblance to acrown. It is erefted on the top of an hill of eafy afcent, and lurrounded by meadows, through which a river gently glides in two channels, forming an ifiand, in which the rath or hill is fituated. It is of a flat unequal form at tep,, being 63 feet one way, and only 27 another. A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. farrounded by a deep fofs, 21 feet broad, out of which the rath hath been thrown up 5 the compafs of it, taken at the bottom of the fofs is about 579 feet, and the coni- cal height near 1 10 feet. On the weft fide of the rath, and feparated from it only by the furrounding fofs, is a fquare artificial platform, taking up about 130 feet on each fide, and hollowed in the middle, being of near 30 feet conical height at a medium, fo that the rath over-looks it, and has a fofs encompaffing it about 15 feet broad. This platform, if we may cre- dit tradition, wasere6led as an area, where two royal competitors in fingle combat decided the pofieffion of a crown, and the rath was raifed to perpetuate the memory of the aftion. Southward of the mount, -on a little hill, at the north end of a fmall lake, called Derickelagh, are the ruins of the chapel of Temple- Gaurin, which in the Irifh dialecSi: fignifies Goat's phurch. We now haftened to Newry, from whence the canal paffes northward about 14 miles, when It joins the river Ban, not far from Lurgan, in the i county of Armagh, It was began in 1730, and finiflied in 1741. In many places it is carried in a direft line for a I confiderable fpace ; in others it forms feveral angles, t It takes a pretty equal courfe between the two coun- I ties of Armagh and Down, but the greateft part of || it feems to pafs through the latter. ; r ' In cutting a new channel for carrying on this ^work, fouth of the place where the river Cuftier I falls in, at Stranmore, near Monallen, a foreft was ; difcovered, or a great multitude of fallen trees of oak, afh, alder, &c. lying for near a mile in length, under a covering of earth, in fome places fix, in others eight feet deep; many of them of large bulk tumbled down one over another, fome lying in ftrait lines, and others in an oblique or tranfverfe I pofition, Difcoveries 310 A TOtJ^'tHRouGH IRELANI^. Difcoveries of this kind are very frequent in Ire- land, and there are few bogs in it but what afford plenty of various forts of timber buried in them' deeper or fhallower in proportion as the loofe and^- fpungy earth lies fo ; for all fuch that we have ob- ferved^ lie on a body of marie, clay, or gravel. It would be vain, with the vulgar opinion, to fuppofe that thefe trees have lain here fince the univerfal deluge. If trees thus found, were felled by the de- luge, they would all lie in one pofition ; whereas in the Inftance before us, the contrary appears ; none of them would be found with the mark of the ax on them, or in part burned, as is often the cafe. Between Pointz's Pafs and Teryhogan a rivulet from a bog fails into the canal, called in Irifh Ellen- money, or the wonderful bog, from the nature of its current, that immediately on its rifing feparates into two branches, which take a notherly and foutherly courfe ; one branch running towards Lough-" Neagh, and the other towards Newry. Betweeri' thcfe places lies the higheft ground of the wholfe canal, where by means of two locks the water is forcibly retained on a level for near three miles ; were it not for this contrivance, as the courfe of the waters incline north and fouth, the intermediate fpac^ would be left dry. Lough-Shark, Lough-Dian, and Lough-Bricklan lie eaft of the canal almort oppofite to Aiton, the two former near the banks of it, and the latter almoft two miles diftant from the othefs^i- It is faid there is a fub terraneous communication be*^ tween the three lakes. The water of Lough-Shark' covers about 80 plantation acres, and is three fa- thom deep, and at the drieft feafon can emit a folid foot of water. Lough-Dian is of fomething a fmailer fize ; but Lough-Bricklan exceeds the fir ft, as covering ten acres more. Formerly there were : three incumbred paflcs^ through bogs, woods, and nioraffy grounds in this neighbourhood^ aftbrdinga A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. 311 bad and dangerous communication between thofe parts of the counties of Armagh and Down, called Scarvagh's Pafs, Pointz's, alias Fenwick's Pafs, and Lamb's Pafs, alias Tufcan Pafs, in Irifh Pafs Turrifhane. The firft of thefe pafles is north v/ard of Fenwick's or Pointz's Pafs upwards of tv/o miles and a half, and northward of Newry eight • the fecond is northward of Lamb's or Tufcan Pafs, and about two miles and a half alfo ; and the third is northward of Newry upwards of three miles. A caftle was formerly ere£led at each of thefe pafTes, and the flumps of thofe of Pointz's and Tufcan Pafs ftill remain ; that at Scarvagh Pafs is utterly deftroyed, but near where, it flood is a good I'houfe, pleafantly fituated on a'rifing ground near the canal and Scarvagh-bridge ^ near it are fait- works. Donoghmore, a parifh church, flands eaftward of fTufcan Pafs near three miles, and is about midway •between Loughbricklan and Newry. Loughbricklaa lies full north from Newry, and but two miles fouth- wefl from Banbridge. It is a village confifting of one broad flreet, at the 'fouth-end of which is the parifh church ; it formerly flood at Aghaderig, half a mile north-wefl of this place, where the ruins are now to be feen, and the parifh yet bears that name. It is a great thorough- fare, and the principal turnpike-road from Dublin to Belfafl. From Louo-hbricklan we made an excur- fion to Armagh, about 12 miles weilward, wherein the market-place we faw a crofs of two flones, v/ith oJd bafTo-relievos, reprefenting Chrifl on the crofs between the two thieves, and fome ingenious fret- work. This town, though an archbifhoprick, and the metropolitan fee of all Ireland, contains only one church, and the ruins of fome abbeys. The arch- bJfnop of this fee has not only decorated his cathe- dral, given it an organ^ and fixed a choir there, 312 A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. but has built one of the beft houfes in the kingdom, a real palace, fuited to his elevated rank.' It was originally intended that bifhops fhould re- fide in cities. Lord Coke is of opinion that the very refide'nce of a biihop conftitutes a city. His grace therefore, v^ith ideas truly epifcopal, would have Armagh a city not only of courtefy, but in reality; and to efte6l it, he makes it a condition with his tenants, that they fliall all build good houfes, and flate them. Nor has he flopped here. He, at his own expence, has built and endowed a fumptuous diocefan library; and by his influence and contri- bution he has ere£led a magnificent hofpital, a col- lege, and even a barrack. His clergy are all follow- ing his fteps, and new houfes, new churches, and fpired fteeples are every day rifing through every quar-* ter of his diocefe. From Armagh we returned over the canal, and pafied on to Banbridge, a village fo called from a ftone bridge built here over the river Ban, where fomc of the greateft fairs for linen cloth are held live times a year, conftantly attended by fa6lors from England. Many proteftants, efpecially diffenters,. have fettled near this place, where they have a meeting-houfe. The turnpike-roads from Nev/ry to Belfaft and Randalftown divide here in two branches; that to Belfaft proceeds to Dromore, and from thence to Hilfborough and Lifburn ; the other by Magherelin, Moyra, and fo to Antrim. A little north of Banbridge you have the parifli church and vicarage houfc of bea Patrick ; and three miles eaft of it on tbe edge of the barony ftands the parifli church and vicarage houfe of Garvaghy. From Banbridge we proceeded north through Sea- Patrick, having Lough Kernan on the left hand. This lake, though fmall in extt^nt, being not above half a mile long, a quarter of a mile broad, and near twenty A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. 313 twenty feet deep in the middle, was rendei-cd re- markable by the papills drowning near eighty unhap- py proteftants in it in 1641. About half a mile north of it is Tulleifh church, near the banks of the river Ban, and near it is Halls-mill, where is a bleaching- yard of large extent. The Ban water is efteemed excellent for whitning linen. A gloomy plantation of fir, called Monro's-grove, on the fteep banks of the river, gave us no unpleafing variety, as we had juffc quitted an open, though hilly, country full of corn. Lefs than a mile north-weft is Gilford, a village on the river Ban. The meanders of the river about this place, over which is a good ftone bridge, and thcrifing grounds furrounding it, adorned v/nh wood, and the bottoms variegated with bleach-yards, afford altogether an agreeable profpedl, efpecially in the bleaching feafon. From thence it is about three miles north-eaft to ; Waringftown, antiently called Clan-Connell, which is a neat vvell planted and improved village, about two miles fouth-weft of Magherelin, and near four-^ teen north of Newry. In this town and the neigh- bourhood of it the linen m.anufaciure is carried on to great advantage. Near it is one of thofe artificial .mounts called Danifh raths, which was opened tabout the year 1684, and in it was found a large flat quarry-ftone, placed upright like a door, which being removed, laid open an entrance into a narrow low pafiage, about ten feet long, and only- wide enough to admit a man to creep in upon his hands and knees. This paffage led into a fmall round vault, about fix feet high and eight feet wide, placed in the center of the mount. In the middle of the vault four long fmall ftones were fixed in the ground, each about two feet and a half high, ftanding up- right as fupporters to a flat quarry-ftone, two feet and a half long, and twenty inches broad, placed on them in a manner of a table j under which on the P ground 314 A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND-, ground flood an handfome earthern urn, of a dark bjownifli colour, as if not thoroughly baked, about a quarter of an inch thick in its fides, containing broken pieces of burnt bones, mixed with aflics and fragments of burnt wood. Several gentlemen have houfes and pleafant feats in and near this town, which are too numerous to be mentioned particularly, and a greater number of ■well built farm houfes, with plantations round them, appear within half a mile of it, than perhaps in any other part of the kingdom of the fame compafs, all inhabited by induftrious proteftants, moft of whom are engaged in the linen bufinefs. The elegant feat of the W arings is at Warings- town, and their houfe, built on a rifmg ground, commands the profpeft of a pleafant well improved country. A fmall walk from the houfe leads to a well finifhed church, roofed with Irifh oak, and re- markable for the workmanfnip of it. From Waringftown we proceeded to Maralin, or Magherelln, a fmall, well planted, and well wa- tered village, on the river Lagan, where the bifliop of Dromore has a good houfe. This village has a handfome church, and a good bridge over the Lagan. From thence we vifited Lurgan, in the county of Armagh, diftant about two miles. This is one of the prettieft little market-towns in the north of this kingdom. Its fituation is extremely pleafant, in a fine fertile and populous country, and in the midft of the linen manufaflory. It ftands on a gentle eminence, about two miles from and commanding a fine profpeft of Lough Neagh, the largeft lake in the kingdom. The inhabitants are genteel, fenfible, and friend- ty 5 and though the town is not very confidejable, yet, from a general concurrence in the fame agreeable difpofition, they have eftablifhed a very fociable and entertaining afiembly, to which, throwing afide all A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. 315 the ridiculous diftin£lions and cxclufions on the circumftances of birth and fortune, the offspring of pride, upon vanity and ignorance, every perfon is welcome, who is qualified to appear v^ith decency> and to behave with good manners. They feem, in- deed, to exert themfclves to fupport the reputation of their town, which, from the fimilarlty of its general figure of the language, manners, and difpofitions of its inhabitants, to thofe of the Englifh, had, for many years acquired the name of Little England, and an Enolifhman at Lur2;an indeed will think him- fe}f in his own country. The country, from hence to the eaftward, by Lif- burn, on to Beifaft and Antrim, is rich, fertile, and as well cultivated and enclofed, as any in the north part of Ireland. But the greater part of the north of Ulfter, as well as of t:h „^ mofi: fouthern parts of Munfter, and almoft the whole of the province of Connaught, are open and mountainous. From Lurgan we vifitcd Lough Neagh, or Lough Eagh, of which we fhall give fome account : it is the largeft lake, or meer in Ireland, Lough-Earn in the county of Fermanagh not equalling it in its area; and though the latter is more diverfified by numerous iflands and woods, yet confide red as a piece of water it is far inferior to this. It exceeds in compafs any frefli water lake in Britain, and perhaps few in Eu- rope go beyond it, thofe of Ladoga and Onega ih Mufcovy, and of Geneva in Switzerland excepted. It is pretty much of an oval figure, indented with, fome irregularities on every fide, and reckoned to be tv/enty Englifh miles long from the north- weft point to the fouth-eail, near fifteen miles of the fame meafure from north-eafi: to fouth-weft, and from ten to twelve miles broad at a medium, overfpreading near 100,000 acres of land. We do not reckon in thefe dimenfions a fmaller lake, called Lough- Beg, "or the Little Lake, that lies at the north-weft end of it, which is near P z four 3i6 A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND, four miles long, and as much broad , and detached from it by a narrow channel. The great lake -is fed by fix confidcrable rivers, four of frnaller note, and ieveral brooks , yet has but one narrow outlet to difcharge this great flux of water at Toom, firft into Lough-Beg, and fi-om thence through the Lower Ban into the northern fea. This narrow outlet, and leffer lake, being within a fmall matter on a level with the great lake, do not afFord fufficient vent to difcharge the waters of it in the winter mionths and rainy fea- ibns 'y by which means the water in Lough-Neagh is lit fuch times raifed eight or ten feet above its level in fummer, and overflows the bogs and low grounds that lie on its coaft, thereby annually gaining on the high grounds by walhing them away; v/hilft the mud and fand continually rife at Toom, choak up the narrow pafTage, and confequently raiic the water in the lake every year more and more. The country which encompafles it, is fo level, that the fartheft oppofite fhore cannot be difcovered from one rad, and it appears like an ocean ; in ftormy weather its waves break fuddenly, by rcafo^i of their beirig frefli water, and are much more dangerous than thofe of the fea. There is an ifland in it, called Ram, on which is a round tower. T'his lake is remiarkable for tv/o properties ^ firft, for a warm and healing quality in the water, and fecondly, for converting wood into iione. As to the firft property it is a queftion, whether it be difFufed through all parts of the lake, or confined to one fide of it, called the Fifiiing Bay, bounded by the fchool lands of Dungannon, on the welt fid^ of it. This bay is about half a mile h^oz'i^ has a fine Tandy bottom without a pebble in it ; fo that one may walk in it with fafety and cafe from the depth of the ankle to the chin, upon an eafy declivity, at leaf!: 300 yards, before you come to that depth." This dd- fcription is taken intire from the v/ords of the author ; becaufe from thefituation a conjefture may arife, why the A TOUR THROUGH IRELANET. 317 the lake may in this quarter have the property we are inquiring after. For it is well known, that the neigh- bouring lands (and probably the lands here over fpread by the lake) abound with bodies of coal, which are ftrongly impregnated v/ith fulphur and bitumen, thro' which the mineral waters and ftreams pafiing into the lake, and mixing with the water of it, may perhaps have fome fhare in producing the medicinal quality, and the warmth before mentioned. The occafion of firlt taking notice of this bay for any cure is faid to have been in the reign of Charles 11. in the inftance of the fon of one Mr. Cuningham, who had the evil to a fnocking degree. He wa^; touched by the king, (to whofe royal perfon a virtue was at that time afcribed of healing this diftemper) and all imaginable means were unfuccefsfully ufed for his recovery ; his body was fo v/afted that he could not walk: but at length he was bathed in this lough for eight days, in confequence of which, his fores were dried up, and he grew healthy, married, begot children, and lived feveral years after. From that time, many frequented the lake, who were affli6led with running ulcers,, and returned home per feftly healed. Thelti iiiftanc.es are fo well attefted, that they adm^it of no difpute. Yet we can fcarce be perfuaded, but that this lake v/as much more early remarked for a healing property, than at the period here aiiigned ; though it mi2:ht in a long tra£t of time have gone into difufe^ rind been neglected and forgotten. The very name of it feems to hint at this quality ; Neafg and Neas in Iriih Signifying an ulcer or fore. How eafy is Neafg corrupted int* Neagh ? The chyniical analyfis of this water difcovers nothing in it peculiar or difFercnt" irom the contents of other lough or bog waters in this kingdom, all of them exhibiting very nearly the iame fort of refiduum^ as particularly appeared by e>;periments made in concert on the waters of this loLigh,^ and the famed Lough-Lheighs,, or the healing 3i8 A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. lough, in the county of Cavan, each yielding upon evaporation a fmall quantity of bituminous, or at leait fulphureous matter, from which they both feem to derive their hca]ing quality before hinted at. For it is obfervable, that the folid contents of thefe waters diiier greatly from thofe of moft common fprings, which generally contain a diilblved native llme-flone^ which the waters of thefe loughs do not ; but a dai^k brov/n vifcid matter, fparkiiiig, iHnking, and burning black on a red hot iron : and herein they differ greatly from other petrifying waters of this kingdom and Great Britain;^ which abound with lime-fione, and whofe jpetrifadlions are a true native lime-ftone. And this gives fome countenance to the opinions of thofe vir- tuofi, (hoy/ fallible foever In the main it may hereafter appear) v/ho attribute a petrifying quality afcribed to this lough, rather to the foil of it, than to the water; which quality we fhall proceed to examine in the next place. The fecond property afcribed to this lake, of petri- fying and converting wood into ftone, challenges fome attention , and the more fo, as antiquity and univerfal confent have confpired to give it this quality^ Cre- dulity has been fruitful in adding a remarkable par- ticular to this property afcribed to the lough, viz. that the wood is turned partly into ftone, and partly vinto iron, or that the part fixed in the earth becomes vjron, and the middle of it, as far as remains in the j water, is converted into ftone, the upper end above the .water retaining its form.er nature. But though uiii- v.erfal confent has been fo favourable to tradition, as to allow Lough-Neagh ftone to be holly, or other . timber petrified ; yet v/hether the petrifying virtue re- .^ides in the water of the lough, or in the neighbouring ,^il, has been the fubje6i of fome difpute. That the ^"vvater is not pofieffed of any fuch virtue has been de- termined by an experiment purpofely made, by driving ftakc of holly into: the ground within the verge of - - '"'"''"^^^c^^ the A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. 319 the lake, which was found to continue there many years without any alteration or petrifaction ; and per- haps upon an iffiparti^l fcrutiny, there will not appear anv inconteitible evidence of the foil poflelling. this virtue, or, in other terms, that Lough-Neagh ftones were ever once wood. Having examined Lough-Nergh, we returned thro' Lurgan, to Moyrah, a thriving village, confifting of one good ftreer, where the linen manufadlure is car-" ried on to advantage. At the north-eaft end of the tov^m is a handfome well-planted avenue leading to the houfe of the late Sir John Rawdon, where the im- provements and gardens are extenfive, and furntfhed with variety of good fruit, and many exotics, brought thither from Jamaica, which thrive well. On an eminence in view of it is a handfome parifh church finely fituated, the front of which, and part of the fteeple, are well executed in hewn ftone. Here is a good charity-fchool, for twenty-four poor children, and the diffenters have two meeting-houfes here. A fmall walk extending from the weft end of Moy- rah is Maghereinch, a good feat, ftanding on an eminence, and having a beautiful profpeft of wood, and the meanders of the river Lagan ; near which is Woodfort, and northward of the town, near the edge of the county, Drumbane, another good feat. From thence we vifited Lifburn, in the county of Antrim, and then returned acrofs the Lagan river to Hillfborough; in the way thence we palled the Mafe Courfe, a place appropriated for the public di- veriions of horfe-racing. It is about a mile north of Hillfborough, near the banks of the river Lagan. A rifing hill in the middle of the courfe, about two miles in circumference, gives the fpeitators a full view of the whole field. About three miles from Lifburn is Hillfborough^ a town finely fituated bn a healthy gravelly foil, in ' view of Lifburn, Belfaft, the bay and town of Carrickfergus, and command- 320 A TOUR 7'KRouGH IRELAND. ihg a great extent of profpeft into a well improved country. It is a market and borough town. The old pariih- church flood near the bridge at the en- trance into the town. The nobleman who takes his title from this place, has lately built here a neat and elegant church at his own expence, with a fpire, an organ, -and painted windows; and has alfo ereftcd ranges of new houfes, to each of which is a gar- den, &c. befides fcveral other public and private buildings. In digging the foundation for a linen manufac- tury-houfe, a great number of pieces of filver of the coinage of queen Elizabeth, king James 1. and Charles I. v^ere throv/n up, fuppofcd to have been buried tliere in the war of 1641. In this town king William the Third, foon after his landing at Car- rickfergus, halted two nights, and from hence gave orders to his army to take the field, and march to Dundalk. About tliree miles fouth-eaft from thence is Ana- .hilt church, a rriodern ftru£ture, from w^hence vv^e proGceded weftward about four miles to Dromore, which, like many other places in Ireland, borrov/s its name from its fiiuation, and fignifies the great back of a hill, being ^ clufter of houfes fpread on the fide of a hill, it is a market-town, and the fee of , a a bifliop. The cathedral is but fmall, yet commo- dious and neat ; it is not built like other cathedrals in form of a crofs ; nor has it any revenue for fupport- ing cathedral fervice. The church lay in ruins until it was rebuilt after the reiloration by bifhop Taylor, and dedicated to Chrift our Redeemer,'' as appears by the altar-plate which he gave to the church. There are four pre- lates of this fee interred in one vault in the chancel, viz. Taylor, Ruft, Digby, and Wifeman, without any monument or infcription. At A TOUPv THROUGH IRELAND. 321 At the weft entrance into the town are two decent alms-houfes. On one fide of thefe ftands the dio- cefan fchool-houfe, and on a hill at the fouth-eaft end of the town are two meeting-houfes. In the fquare is ere£led a market-houfe on ftone arches. Confiderable quantities of linen-cloth are fold in the markets and fairs held here ; and in and near the town are many linen weavers ; they have fcore of firing in the neighbouring turbaries, and marie in the adjoining lands. The turnpike-road from Dublin to Belfaft pafTes here. The river Lagan divides the town, but has a bridge over it of two arches for entrance and communication. The nrft proteftant blood fhed in the micmorable year 1688, was in this neighbourhood, and it v/as through this town our great deliverer king William marched oa the 24th of June, 1690, to join his army. At the north-eafi: end of the town is a high Danifli rath, of great extent, confpicuous to travellers^ and the ad- jacent country. The circumference of this large rath is 630 feet in the bafe, the conical height 80 feet, the perpen- dicular height 44 feet, 3 inches, and the diaiiieterat the top 63 feet, with a large battlement incircled with a rampart between 80 and 90 feet broad, and a fpacious parapet. The trench, betVv'een ten and twelve feet v>nde, terminates on a precipice, y/ith two arms embracing a fquare fort 100 feet diameter. Ifjom the river Lagan to this antient fortification, upon the afcent of the precipice, is a covered way 260. feet long, feven feet v/ide, and nine feet deep. Gill-hall, a mile and a half weft of Dromore, is a.handfome feat, on the river Lagan, over which is a ftone bridge near the houfe. About tvv-o miles weft of Dromarh church near three miles north, of it on Xhe fame river, and about the center of the barony. We proceeded F 5 thence 321 A TOUR^TKnauGH IRELAND.: fhence towards Down Patrick, through Dromarah i the old parifh church of Dromarah, about three mileS fouth-fouth-weft of Anahilt, lay in ruins fince the general devaftation of churches in 1641 ; but good part of the v/alls out-braving the injuries of time^ were lately repaired, and the church rendered fit foe fervice. Near this church a good flate quarry haS been found. The face of the country hereabouts is rough, bleak, and unimproved, yet produces the neceffaries of life fufficient to fupport a large number of in- habitants, v/ho have little other bread corn but oats, of which they make great quantities of meal to fup- ply not only themfelves, but the neighbouring mar- kets. They are an induflrious hardy people, and may be properly faid to eat their bread with the fweat of their brov/, the coarfenefs of the land obliging them to great labour. The coldnefs of the foil occafions their harvefts to be late, yet by due care and culture, it yields rye and great quan- tities of flax. The plenty of cheap firing got out cf bogs and moffes throughout this whole county does not a little contribute to the fervice of the linen trade. There is an artificial cave in the parifh of Dro- marah and town-land of Cargagh, about fix miles fouth-eaft of Dromore, fituated on a rifing ground, fomething higher than the adjacent lands. The en- trance is of a quadrilateral form, each fide meafur- ing about three feet in length, and descending near the fame number of feet from the furface to the lower part of the aperture ; like that near Waringftov/n, it cannot be entered otherwife than on the belly; but iome few feet from the entrance it is fo wide and hi^h, that a man can ftand almoft ere6t in it. This -navern is in moft places fix feet broad, at the lower t;nd fomething more, and runs in a direft line thirty two yards from . north to louth, and is n-ze feet and a haU' A ^ T Olf R THRoiTGH^ fR^E LAN D. 513 a half high from the floor to the roof in moft places, but at the extremity exceeds that meafure twa inches ; it Is formed and covered in the fame manner as the other. There is a femicircular nich in the wall on the eaft fide eight yards and a half from the aperture, and on the weft fide, near the pool of wa- ter, towards the end, a quadrangular nich, much inferior in fize to the other. On the weft fide, about eleven yards and a half from the entrance, a chamber branches off from the principal paiTage, eight yards long, and two broad, the workmanfoip of which is more regular and better finifhed than that of the long entry. The floor is fandy and tolerably level, but covered with water moft in» tenfely cold, and exceeding limpid, for the fpace of fifteen yards, leading to the extremity of the long vault, which gradually becomes deeper, being two feet and upv/ards at the utmpft limit. From 13romarah v/e proceeded eaftv/ard to Balllnehinch, which is the principal, and aimoft only place of any note in this barony, and ftands near the center of the county on a little river. It lies in the niidft of the great roads leading from Lurgaii, Dromore, Lifburn, and Hillfborough to Dov/n Pa- trick, and from thence to the eaftern coafts of the county. The country about it is extremely coarle^ full of rocks and hills, v/hich render all accefs to k troublefome and unpleafant^ and it is juftly coiii-^ plained of by travellers, who can only hobble through the broken and narrow caufewayF ^ from this terrible condition of the roads^ it has obtained the name of Magheredroll, or f ield of Difficultiec^ which it truly deferves. The parifh church and refi-- dentiary houfe, are a fhort way from the charity-- fchool, and the diffenters have a meeting-houfe here. About two miles fouth-weft of this place, on the Ikirts of the mountain, called Slieve Crojobj is.^u excellent chalybeate^ fiiiphureous fpavv^ ■ > :■ P 6 M p4 A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. It is a very clear water, exceffively cold, and of a moft difagreeable tafte and fmell, like the fulphure- ous waters of Aix-la-Chapelle, or like what has been ufed in fcouring a foul gun. Xhe quantity of it commonly taken, is from three pints to three quarts 3 fome it vomits, others it purges ; but thefe efFe£ts feem to be only accidental, the chief opera- tion is by urine. Its virtues hitherto found out by experience, appear to refemble thofe of other ful- phureous waters, particularly its great efficacy in fcorbutic diforders, both by bathing and drinking, of which there happened a remarkable inftance fome years fince, in the cafe of a di {Tenting minifter, who came to this well, over-run with leprous eruptions on the fkin, w^hich had rendered his joints fo rigid, that he could neither hold his bridle, nor feed him- felf : he returned home fupple and clean, after hav- ing drank the water, and bathed in it but a month* There are feveral other examples of the like happy fuccefs from the ufe of it in cafes of the like nature, and of its removing fcorbutic pains in the head and limbs. Two miles fouth-fouth-eaft of Ballinehinch is Marybrook, feated on a rifmg ground, near a fmall lake, and two miles to the eaft of this, on the verge of the barony, Kilmore, a fmall village, ftands on a reeky ground near the river of Ballinehinch, which fouth of this place falls into a branch of the lake of Strangford. On the fame river, and likewife clofe to the edge of the barony, (lands Annacloy, fouth of Kilmore, near which is Loughin-ifland, a fmall ifland in a lake, to which you have an entrance from the land. In this ifle ftands the old parifh church, which is now tranflated to Seaford. A mile fouth of Seafcrd is Clough, a well laid otit village, in which is a good manfion-houfe, and near it a Danifti lath, furrounded by a broad deep fofs, aad (what is fomething fmgular) on the top of it.a plain A T O U R THRoiTGH I R E LAN jy. 32'5 plain ftrong caftle of ftone, the building of which is afcribcd to the Danes. From thence we pafied to Dundrum, now a mean village, but formerly a place of fome confequence, on account of a ftrong fortified cafiie, the ruins of which remain. It is boldly feated on a rock, com- mands a view of the whole bay, the gut or harbour within it (called by fome the inner bay) the main fea to the fouth, a great part of Lecale to theeaft, and of the high mountains of Mourne and Iveach to the fouth and fouth-weft. Its caftle was difmantled by order of Cromv/ell, and has ever fmce been fuffere'd to fall to ruin. From Dundrum we crolicd its inner bay, v/hich is fmall, and very fee u re ; it extends from the entrance near three miles northward, and is in breadth about one at a medium, except a fpur that ftretches out from the fouth end weft ward, and receives a little river called Slideryford river ; but the outv/ard bay isfhallow arid dangerous, only fmall vef- fels can ride in the middle of it, and that too at high water. Having crolTed, we proceeded to Killough, now called Port St. Anne, which is feated north of St. John's Point, feven miles eaft-fouth-eaft of Dundrum, and five almoft fouth of Down Patrick. It was of late made a town and commodious harbour. The tov/n is agreeably fituated, the fea flowing all along the backs of the houfes, where fhips ride in full view of the inhabitants. Some merchants and other perfons of condition live here, and it has a decent church, and a barrack for two or three troops of horfe. There is good f fhing in the bay, but the principal trade of the place confifts in the exportation of barley, and the importation of fuch com^modities as are confumed in the adjacent coun- try. Fifteen fliips belong to the port that deal in foreign and domeftic trade, and about twenty boats arc employed in fiflhing. A manufadure of fait is -26 A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. alfo carried on here with greater advantage than in many other places. In a corn field about a quarter of a mile from Kil- ]ouQ;h, towards St. John's Point, is a cave about twenty yards long, v/hich has a winding- paflage tv/o feet and a half broad^ and it has three doors befides the chief entrance, which lead to a circular chamber, thi-ee yards in diameter, in which is a fine cool limpid well, fupplied by alpring in it. Another beautiful grotto under a hill, is, at the extremity of Bally-Cam bay, near Killough, with this difference only, that at the bottom of the latter is a well feven feet deep, and i n ten fely cold, which always continues the fame, and is fed by a water per- petually oozing from the top of the cave through a vein of lime-ftone. At Killough is a remarkable well, called St. Scordin's well, highly efleem.ed for its water, and the application of it to all manner of ufes ; it iffues out of a high rocky bank clofe upon the ihore j -never diminifhes in the dri.e{l feafons, and produces 124 hogfheads in 24 hours. There is alfo a mine- ral well near the charter-fchool, both purgative and emetic. At a fmall didance beyond Scordin's Well, near the verge of the fea, is an oblong hole in a rock^ v/hich, at the ebbing or flov/ing of the tide, fends fi-.rth a ftrange noife, fomev/hat refembling the wind- ing of a horn ; as the waters beat up under the rocks, or retire, they force the air out, or elfe the air rufti- ing in at this narrow vent, and meeting the water in its progrefs, occafions thofe i^nufual founds ; hold your hand over it, and you feel the cold air burft:ing forth, with a mixture ^of ipray, as the waves ad- vance to the fhcre ; but as they retreat, the fuftion IS fhong.3 in (omc degree iifce that of an air- A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. 327 When the tide is out, the ftrand is pafiable from Killough to Ardglafs, which is not then much more than a mile diftant ; but at high-water the journey is full four miles round the head of the bay. There is a natural cave with a very large entrance on the ftiore within the north-eaft point of Ardglafs harbour, and extends about tv/enty yards, under a hill of earth, covered with a green fvvard, like the neighbouring grounds, and is divided into one large and two leffer chambers. From the arched roof of this grotto, hang lumps of (lone of various figures, all ending in a drop, of the ftaladite fort, foft, unc- tuous, and gritty ; the fides are incruftated with ex- udations or exftillations of the fame petrifying fluid, ifTuing out of the neighbouring rocks, the whole forming a great variety of elegant fhapes. Ardglafs, although in the reign of queen Eli- zabeth one of the three principal towns in the coun- ty next to Newry and Down, is now in a mean condition, confifting only of a few ordinary cabins, and four or five old decayed caftles, bcfides a large ruined building; one of thefe caflles, called the King's Caftle, has been a large ftrong building, near which are the ruins of a church ; another called Horn Caftle, is only a plain building, yet of fome ftrength for defence; a third is called the Coud Caftle; but the natives could give no account of the meaning of the word, or the reafon of the name. Another caftle, plain and ftrong, ftands detached from the long building, and feems to have been erected as a flanker of defence to it, and to correfpond with a Banker at the other end, which joins to, and is apart of the long building ; we had like to have palled over Jcrdan^s Caftle, which, though not fo large as the King's Caftle, is yet handfomer than that or any of the former, and was a fort of conhderable llfcngth. A range of buildings yet fubfifts here, .2 3*4. feet m length, (including a flanker at one end) arid 20 feet broad in the clears with a battlement on 528 A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. on it on the fide oppofed to the fea breaft high, and there is a platform or fpace all round it to walk on, juft under the battlements. Three equi-diftant towers ftand in the front next the land, tv/o of which are a part of the building, but the third is detached a little diilance fromit ; there are no windows, except foike- holes, in the fide next the fea. In the front wall, to the land, are fifteen fquare windows and fixteen arch- ed ftone doors, a door and a window being placed al- ternately clofe to each other all along the range, as is . ufual in traders fhops, befides a door in each^flanker. Thefe circumftances may induce a belief, that this long range of buildings was antiently a place where wares were fold, as well as a fortification of llreno th, and that the caftles and flankers were erected to^de- fend merchants from the infults of the neighbourino- Irifh. The town is fituated in a creek on an iron Acre, full of rocks, and fit only for fifliing-boats to enter; near it is Ardholl church, feated on an emi- nence, now in ruins. This church was the antient parifh church of Ardglafs, but was removed into the tov/n (as tradition fays) on account of its being de- fecrated by a cruel murder committed by the clans of the Mac-Cartanes on the v/hole congregation, at the Chriilmas mid-night mafs. At the head of Killough bay two roads break off one north- eaft leading to Strangford, the other north ^ to ,Ijov/n Patrick. In this latter difiria lie the churches of Dunsford or Dunfport, Bally Culter, and Kilclief, the latter being feated on the enl trance mto the bay of Strangford. On the wefl: fide of the road leading from Killough, is callie Screen nov/ in ruins, built v/ithin a Danifh rath, and near it are many remains of heathen menu- ments; about a mile eaft of it is a famous well. On the eaft of the road is a druidical Cromlech, on the fumm.it of a hill, called Slieve-na-Grideal, i. e. the mountain of the Griddel (fo called from the refem- blance A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. 32^ blance this monument bears to that inftrumcnt.) It is compofed of a huge flat unhewn rock, of the Lapis Molaris, or grit kind, interfperfed with, a mixture of red and white flint, in fhape Ibmething like a lozenge in heraldry, or a diamond on the cards, eleven feet two inches' long from point to point, eight feet and a half broad in the greateft dimenfion, and a foot and a half thick in moff places, though in fomc not more than a foot. It is raifed upon two rude fupporters of the fame kind of ftone placed edgeways, one of which is eight feet long, three feet broad, and a foot thick ; the other is not above three feet long, and feems.. to be a natural rock Itanding in its original pofition ; but by the advantage of the ground, the upper or table-Rone ftands pretty near on a level, though with a fmall inclination. The cavity underneath is fuch that a middle fized man, by ftooping a little, can pa-fs through it, and the ftratum upon which the fupport- ing-ftones ftand, is a folld rock. Having pafled this mountain and Bally church, we arrived at the celebrated wells of St. Patrick, other- wife called Struei-Wells, from a town land of that name, whereon they fpring ; to which vaft throngs of rich and poor refort on Midfummer-Eve, and the Friday before Lammas, fome in hopes of obtaining health, and others to perform penances enjoined them by the popiilipriefts from the water bleffed by St. Pa- trick ; they a^*e four in number, each covered with a vault of flone, and the water is conveyed by fubter- raneous aqueducts from one to the other ; but the largefl- of \hefe vaults Is the moft celebrated, being in dimenfions fixteen feet and half by eleven, and is more particularly faid to have received St. Patrick's benediction. In this they bathe the whole body, there being a commodious chamber fitted up for drefling and undreffing, and the water of this well may be raifed to what heighth you pleafe, by means of a fluicc. The other wells are applied for wafiiing 330 A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. particular parts of the body, as the eyes, head, limbs, &c. All thefe vaults feem to be very antient, and near one of them are the ruins of a fmall chapeL dedicated to St. Patrick. A large mile almoft weft of Struel-Wells ftands Down Patrick, i. e. Patrick's Mount, on the fouthern, or fouth-weft branch of Lough-Coyn, or the lake of Strangford, and was reckoned one of the moft antient towns of the kingdom, being noted in hiftory be^ fore the arrival of St. Patrick, in Ireland. At prefent the town is of a confiderable compafs, compofed of four long ftreets, centering near apoint,^ not to mention lanes, and other fmaller ftreets. It is diftmguifoed into feveral quarters, as the Irifh quar- ter, Englifh quarter, Scotch quarter, &c. It is a borough and market-town, and was made the feat of a bdhop by St, Patrick, which has been united to the lee of Connor ever ftnce the year 1442. The ca- thedral ftands within 200 paces of the town on the afcent of a hill, and is yet venerable in its ruins ; the roof v^as fupported by five handfome arches, and com- pofea center aiile of twenty-fix feet broad, and two late- ral aifles of thirteen feet ^wide each ; and the whole fmiaure is one hundred feet long. The heads of the pillars and arches, the tops of the windows, an4 many niches in the walls, have been adorned with variety of fculpture in ftone, fome parts of which yet remain. Over the eaft window, which is very lofty and auguft, are three handfome antient niches, an v/nich the pedeftals ftill continue, v/hereon it is fuppofed the ftatues of St. Patrick, St. Bridgid, and bt, Columb formerly ftood, for tradition and hiftory inform us, that thefe three faints were depofitcd here. .^r Two fquare columns adjoin the eaft end of tlie catjiedral, one of which is folid, and the othsr holloW, and in it twenty winding fteps remain iilgv^^vvMth were iuppol^d to have led up^to tbe-roc€. ~ On A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. . On a ftone over the eaft v/indow is a very antient f -mfeription. There is at the weft end a very high pillar, that was repaired at the expence of dean Daniel. This church and monument were deitroyed by Leo- nard, lord Grey, lord deputy of Ireland, A. D. 1538, the profanation of them being one of the articles of impeachment laid to his charge, and he was beheaded three years after. Among the ruins of the abbey have been lately dug up an Agnus Dei, or figure of a Iamb, cut in free- llone as big as the life, and not ill executed ; and fome years ago a gentleman in making a nev/ garden on Chapel-hill, found another Agnus Dei, and vaft quantities of human bones, which he depofited in one capacious grave. It v/as made the feat of a biihop by St. Patrick. Large pieces of ftained glafs, and windov/ lead, have been lately turned up out of the ruins of the building ; the glafs but rudely painted and fcarce tranfparent, probably done in the infancy of the in- vention ; but the lead was like pewter, and far beyond any ufed in the prefent tiroes. Several cells have been alfo difcovered behind the abbey, one whereof was floored with fmall painted tiles, fomething like mofaick work, but the figures coarfe and ill done. No antient monument remains in the old abbey, but here is a round tower, which ftands about 4.0 feet from the old cathedral, is 66 feet high, the thick- jiefs of the walls three feet, and the diameter on the infide eight feet. On the weft fide of it is an irregu- ; lar gap, about ten feet from the top, near a third of the whole circumference being broken off by the in- jury of tirne ; the entrance into it is two feet and a half wide, and placed on a levej with the furface of the ground ; in which laft particular it is pretty lingu- lar ] for in othei;s the door h placed from eigiit to twelve 332 A TOUR THROUGH IRELANI>, twelve feet above the ground, v^itbout any fteps or ftairs, fo that there is no getting into thefe buiJdinas without a ladder ; unlefs it may be judged (whichls probable enough) tha^ this difference has been occa- lioned here from the raifing of the ground bv therub- hifh of the old cathedral near it, fallen in^o ruinous heaps. Thefe towers differ from each other in decrees of 'hejght, fome not exceeding 37 feet, others arnountmg to 50, and others being 132, as that at Kildare; to^ wnich alio one adjoining to the cathedral of Kilkenni^ IS not much inferior ; their outward circuit at the bottom rarely exceeds 42 feet, the cavity v/ithin is leldom moi:e than eight feet, fo that the walls are about three feet thick ; they gradually diminift ac« cording to the rules of architeaure from bottom in. top, v/hich is covered with a roof of ftone termiiKft- ing in a point, and they all feem to have been ori- ginally ereded in that condition; but as they have been much neglefted with regard to repairs, time or the violence of ftorms has deftroyed the roofs of fome of them, and left the walls of fuch naked and pretty level, and others jagged and broken, fo as to appear ■ Irom the bottom fomething like battlements. It maniftft aifo, that fbme of them have had artlficJai battlements added to them in later times, witnefs the tower at Kildare, wdiich having been pointed and re- paired within thefe few years, had then a regular neat battlement raifed on it, which before was only an ir- regular broken v/all. ^ The walls rifing in a gradual eontraaion, accord- ing to the ftories intended, had fufficient butnients to relt lofts of timber on, to which people mounted from one flage to another by means of ladders. In fome of them may be feen blocks of timber iticking in the walls, being part of the beams that fupported fuch ofts, and in feveral the cavities that received the laid beams, but no timber in them. To the ftage^ m A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. •T^oft of thefe towers were loop-holes, or little win- dows through the walls to admit light, and near the top were four vacuities or windows looking difierent ways. There are the remains of no lefs than five religious houfes in Down Patrick. The prefent church, which is ninety feet by forty in the clear, itands in another part of the townj and was rebuilt in 1735. Befides thefe itru£lures, the town is adorned with feveral other handfome buildings, as a diocefan fchool- houfe, a large market houfe of 62 feet by 30, a horfe barrack, and a prefbyterian meeting-houfe 5 but ^bove all a feffiori-houfe claims our notice^ This building is faid to have coft between two and three thoufand pounds. Near the court-houfe, in the ftreet, lie the feveral pieces of an old Hone crofs, on the fliaft of which is carved a crucifix or image of Jefus, it is generally called the Market Crofs ^ yet probably it flood in one of the church-yards, and v/as erecfted for fuperftitious purpofes. The pedeftal is one folid firone, in form of a cube, about three feet high, the fhaft or pillar twelve inches by fixteen, and five feet high, and the crofs about four feet high, all of the Lapis Molaris, or grit ftone. On a rifino; o-round near the fefiion-houfe are ac~ commodations for three clergymens widows of the diocefe, who have each a convenient houfe and garden, with twenty pounds a yeaif" raifed by fub* fcription. ^ On the declivity of the hill, leading from the old cathedral to the town, and in view of the lake, is an hofpital. The whole building extends 245 feet, and is divided into a middle range, and two contiguous projecting wings, of which the -middle building takes up 150 feet, and the two wings occupy the remainder. A handfomie cupola is raifed of frce-ftone over the great gateway in the center of the -houfe, and the whole front 334 A TOUR through IRELAND. front is built of neat brick work, ornamented with free-ftcne, and executed in fuch an elegant manner, that it ftrikes the eye with pleafure, and appears both flrono; and light. The back part of this building Is made of ftone, and behind it is a range of little offices for turf, lumber, &:c. with a garden walled in, and divided into fourteen plots ; two of which are appropriated to the ufes of the two fchools, and twelve to the other inhabitants, men and women. On a rifing ground, at the entrance into this town, formerly itood a noble houfe of the right honourable the lord Cromwell, burned down by the Irifh rebels in 1 641. This gentleman came over into Ireland in the reign of king James I. and was captain of an independent troop at Down, where he built this houfe, fome of the ruins whereof yet appear, and in which he lived with great hofpitality and credit. About a mile fouth of the town is a noted horfe- courfe. The hills hanging over the town, on the road leading to St. Patrick's Wells, command many beautiful profpeds. From their tops you have no )efs than fourteen different views of the lake of Strangford, with many peninfula's and iflands inter--^ fperfed through it, the town lying below, and all the towns and villages within fix or fcven miles plainly appear ; the fea at Killough is in full view, and the Ifle of Aian vifible from end to end : nor are you without a fight of Scotland in favourable* weather ; not to mention the gentlemen's feats that lie around it. The whole county is remarkable for a number of fmall hills, Vv^hich are compared to wooden bowls inverted, or eggs fet in fait; and from thence it is faid to have taken the name of Down, which fignifies a hilly fituation. The fort or rath at Down-Patrick, lying on the north-weft fide of the town, takes up a vaft extent of ground, and comprehends at leafl three quarters of an A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. 335 an Englifli mile within the circuit of all the works. The circumference of it is 2100 feet, the conical leight 60 feet, the diameter at the top bearing a proportion with the other parts. Three great arti- ficial ramparts furround it, the moft confiderable of which is 30 feet broad. Oppofite to the old cathedral of Down, in the ifle of Inch, or Inis-Curcey, in the weftern branch of Lough-Coyn, are the ruins of the abbey and abbey church of Inch, tranllated from Carrig, near Ery- nach, to this place, which is a peninfula, having a land paffage into it on the north fide. "J he church of this abbey was erected in the form of a crofs, part of which remains, and on the fouth fide feems to have ftood a fteeple, fupported by an" elegant arch, of which fome of the beads or firings are yet to be ;feen. At the eaft end of the church are three large arched windows, upwards of twenty feet high, and on each fide in the north and fouth walls are two windows compofed of two arches, little inferior in heighth or elegance to the great window on the eafi:. Thefe windows, for light and ornament, muft have had a grand effe<£l, when the church was in its fplendor ; in the fouth wall remain yet three tops of ftalls. The w^holebody of the church is fo filled with rubbifli, and overgrown with weeds, that we could difcover no monuments, nor any thing more remarkable about it, except an ordinary cabin at the weft end of the church, which has a moft beautiful ftone door cafe, made up of fome of the 1 ruins. In the faid ifiand, immediately after the entrance into it by a caufeway, is an old church, which perhaps was a chapel to the great abbey, over the fouth door of which is a piece of fculpture repre- 1 fenting the image of Chrift on the crofs, and a perlbn 336 A TOUR through IRELAND. perfon on his knees, with his hands elevated praying to him. From Down Patrick the pafllige to the ifland oP Inch is by Coil-bridge, compofed of fix arches, and has a caufeway over one end of it ; perhaps it ftiould be called Coyne-bridge, as it affords a fafe way over a'branch of the lake, antiently called Lough-Coyne, and gives a fliort cut from Down Patrick, in the barony of Lecale into the baronies of DiifFerin and Gaftle-Reagh. The quay for ftiipping to the port of Down Patrick is a quarter of a mile below this bridge, and about a mile from the tov/n. It is called King's Wefton, from a feat in England belonging to lord CliiFord, the fame landlord. Ships of fifty tons and upwards can come up to it, and there are good ftore-houfes ere£led at the quay. There are feveral gentlemens' feats near Down, viz. Finnibroge on the north fide of the lake, a good houfe ; Hollymount, another feat finely fituated on the v/eft arm of the lake ^ the ground clofe to the houfe being on a declivity, terminates in many agree- able profpe£ls of the water, on which are numbers of fwans and wild fowl ; Ballydongan, another feat, {lands fouth of Hollymount, on the verge of the lake w^here was formerly a large ftrong houfe, with a drav^^bridge and turrets for defence, burnt down in 1641. Oppofite to it is Sv/an Ifland, fo called from the great number of fwans that build on it. From D^wn Patrick a road extends eaftward, keeping the diftance of about a m.ile from the fhore of the lake to Caftleward and Strangford. In this journey about a mile fiom the town we faw the abbey af Saul. This was, perhaps, one of the firft found- ed monafteries in the kingdom, being ere6ted by St. Patrick in the year 432 ; but we muft not conceive it to have been then built of ftone in the ftately man- ner it has fince appeared. Large ruins remain of this abbey, and there are here two fmall vaulted rooms of ftone A TOUPv THROUGH IRELAND. ftone yet entire, about feven feet high, fix feet long, aod two feet and a half broad, with a fmallwindov/ placed in one fide ; perhaps thefe fmall chambers were confeffionals, or places for private devotion. One of them is now clofed up, and ufed by fome fa-' milies for a tomb, the church-yard being a great burial place of the natives. At fome diftance from the church, on the fouth-weft fide, ftands a battlemented cartle, and two fmall towers, but no (lone flairs in the caftle leading up to the top of it, as isufualiii fuch fabrics. It is probable there were flairs of tim- ber in the body of the building, by which people rnight afcend from ftory to flory ; in the. v/eft angle of each of v/hich flories are neat finifhcd arches with- in the wall, riung in various feflions to the top, where they terminate in a circle. At fome diftance from the monaftery is to be feen, in the fide of a fl-able wall, a ftGiie, v> hich formerly belonged to the monaftery, infcribed v/ith thefe letters : NNO, for anno, the reft being defaced ; it is adorned with two fieur de lys's and two trees ; and in the fame wall on the oppofite fide of the door is another ftone, with the letter F infcribed, and the figure of a rofe. Nothing elfe remarkable appears on the north fide of the road, except two old caftles near thefhore of the lake, the one called Vv^alflie's Caftle, the other Caftle Audley, the latter of which, boldly featcd on. an eminence, commands a profpedt of the whole lake, to the very north end of it at Newtown, and is- built on a tongue of land hanging over the lajce. Caftleward, a large and handfome improvement, ftands a mile weft of Strangford, and is feated on a bay of the fame name, fo called from a caftle ere£led there, when the family of the V/ards firft fettled in Ireland ; but the antient name of the place was C^irrickrnc-Sheannah, i. e. the Foxes Rock. On 338 A TOUR through IRELAND. the bay that op.€ns to the garden, is a fingular con- trivance for fu pplying. a mill with water, A dead wail is carried acrofs the gut, in which are two arches, and in them two flood-gates fixed^ the one to admit the tide, and the other to keep it in or let it out, as occafion ferv^es ; by this means a corn- miH^ is perpetually fuppl led with water, which can never fail as long as the tide flows here. Strangford, five miles call of Down Patrick, is a fmall antient trading town ; it is feated on the weft fide of Strangford river, or rather on the entrance into. Strangford lake, which is here half a mile broad. This town is properly the port town of the whole lake ; for though the colleftor holds his re- fid'ence at Down for the convenience of trade, yet lie is obliged to keep a clerk here. There is a preftyterian meeting-houfe in this town, as al fo a church. From hence to the Ille of Man is only thirty miles. The extent of Strangford lake from Newtown in the north, to Strangford in the fouth, is about thir- teen Irifh miles or better, and if you take it from its firft entrance at Anguifh Rocks, it may be reckoned upwards of a league more. By computation it covers 25,775 acres Irifli plantation meafure. The &ape bears in the whole no bad refemblance to Italy ; that part of it extending weflward from Audley- Rcad to Coyne-bridge, near five miles, being like the foot of the boot, and the entrance from Anguifti- Rocks to Audley-Road like the heel. Near Coyne- bridge it grows narrow for a fcort fpace, after v/hich it fpreads into a branch irregularly triangular, i^Gt unlike Sicily, as it bears relation to Italy. The lake is in fome places three, in forne places four, and in others upwards of four miles broad, and the tide flows to Newtown at the remoteft north end of it, which is reckoned to rife in fpring tides about four A TQUR THROUGH IRELAlvrD-^. feet at a medium, though at other times the fwell is very inconfiderable. The i (lands in this lake are numerous ; yet we cannot but think Dr. Boat was decjeived in afHrm- ing, from the reports of the neighbourhood, that they amounted to 260-. However, it appears froin a farvey made of them, that' there are difperfed up and dov/n in it 54 iflands, fmall and great^ kncn'ri by particular names, and many others namelefs. 0;i the weft fide of it, near the coail: of the barony of DufFerin, is a numerous group of fmall iilands, that goby the name of the Scaterick Iflands ; fome of which are noted for fattening lean, and reftoring diftempered horfts. Many of them are inhabited^ moft of them are well watered, and are profitable both in grain and grafs. They abound in lime- jftone, and afford variety of wild fowl, fuch as wild geefe, great flights of barnacles fweet and well fa- voured, ducks, gold-heads, widgeons, teal, and foui^ or five forts of divers. The great and profitable manufacture carried on in thefe iflands, and on the flat ftoney coafts furrounding the lake, is the burn-i-' ing of fea-weed into kelp, which employs upwards of 300 hands, and is faid to produce to the feveral proprietors neat profit upwards of loool. per annum. Four of thefe iflands are called Swan Iflands, froiii the number of fwans that frequent them, A LIST of fuch Iflands In the Lake of Stkanc^^' FORD" as are kno^^i by names, together with' thd^ contents of acres in each. 1 Big Swan Ifland, contains about acres 2 Horfe Ifland Hop-o; Ifland 4 Woot«>nE*s Maiid 0.2 20 20 12 5 Inch 340 A TOUR THROUGH I RE LAND. 5 Inch Ifle or Inis-Curcey 60 6 Little Swan Ifland 5 All of which ftand in a triangular branch weft of Coine-bridge. 7 Sooter's Idand, acres 4 8 Corn Ifland 2 9 Caftle Ifland 70 10 Hare Ifland 6 11 Goofe Ifland 60 12 Swan Ifland i 13 Salt Ifland 20 14 Green Ifland 12 15 Inis Shoan half 16 Big Lanchaugh Ifle 5 17 Little Lanchaugh Ifle 4 J 8 Shark Ifle 2 19 Jackdaw Ifle 4 20 Chapel Ifle 6 21 Gibb'slfle 7 22 Core Ifle 2 Z2 Long Ifle, ftocked , with rabbits 2 ^4 Bird Ifle 2 25 Speers Ifle 1 5 26 Church Ifle 10 27 Bourtree Ifle 7 22-8 Rugh Ifle 7 iig Green Ifle half ^0 Reagh Ifle 90 31 Machee Ifle joo 32 Inis-beg i 33 Caftle Ifle 18 34 Wren's Ifle 6 35 CalPs Ifle I 36 Neaugh Ifle half 37 Connelylfle 40 38 Tranfnaugh Ifle 10 39 Drumon Ifle 5 40 Minnes-South Ifle 12 41 Ditto 6 42 Ditto 6 43 Ditto 5 44 Aroan Ifle 6 45 Roe Ifle 6 46 Little Swan Ifle i 47 Caftle Ifle ofr Ring- had dy 40 48 Daraugh Ifle 7 49 Inis-more 190 50 Duncey Ifle 12 51 Green Ifle 14 52 Pool Ifle 40 53 Taigart Ifle 60 54 Dcneneal Ifle, a round ifland like a Danifli fort 4 954 an hf We then proceeded north to Killeleagh, a town fituated on an arm of the lake of Strangford, which fupplies it with fifli. It is near five miles north- eaft of Down, and feven miles fouth-eaft of St, Field. It is built oa a rifing ground, dry and healthy^ A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. 341 healthy, and has a commanding profpe£l of the lake, the Ardes, and St. George's channel ; and bcfides h a market and borough town. Here is a caftle {land- ing at the upper end of the ftreet, now converted to a gentienuui's feat, and at the lower end of the ftreet is a little fafe bay, where ftips lie flieltereJ from all winds. In the town are fome good houfes, a market-houfe, a horfe barrack, and a preibyterian meeting- houfe. North of Killeleagh, on the fide of the lake of Strangford, is Ringhaddy, noted now for its oyfter?, but formerly for its caftle, which, together with another caftle, ere£led on the ifle Scatricknot far ofF, formed two places of defence for thofe parts. More northward ftands R in gdu fieri n, and between that and Cumber, the parlfli church of Killinchy, featedon a high hill, and therefore by fome called in jeft, the Vifible Church. We then proceeded to Portaferry, the firft town in the barony of Ardes, after paffing over the rapid ferry of Strangford, on the other fide of which it lies ; it is a market-tov/n, but irregularly built. The caftle of Portaferry is the ancient feat of the Savages. Confiderable additions were made to this caftle, and finifhed in the year 163&, as appears by an infcription on the arms of the Savages over the door. From the high lands about Portaferry are fine profpe6is extended over the whole lake, the, ba- rony of Ardes, Lecale, the fea, and the Ifle of Man ; and the caftle, together with the town, from the op- pofite fide, makes a beautiful landlkip. Three miles north-eaft of Portaferry, clofe to Slane church- yard, in a plain field, is an artificial cave, formed after the fafhion of a fpiral walk, about fifty yards in length. The entrance is about three feet wi4e, l3Ut fo lov/, (occafioned by ftones and earth tumbled in) that it muft be crept into on the belly, arid when you are in, you muft ftoop to pafs through it. 0.3 With 34:2 A TOUR THROUGH IRELAKD. With the entrance, it confifts of five defcents. it c?.'cb. of which is a ftep of two feet depth, Vv- here probably flag-ftones were placed to ftop the paffage of purr, fuers. It is terminated by an oval chamber twelve feet long, eight broad, and five high, and the whofe fpi-ral vv^alk, together with the chamber at the end, 13 formad of large fiat fiones, built like a dry Wjall V/ithout cement, and roofed with long fiag- frones, placed horizontally, which are fopported v*^ith other ftones projefting about fix inches from th€ fid€ walls. At a little diftance from Portaferryis Eallyphilip, where ftands the old church, which is a coarfe buiW- ing, of an odd contrivance, being a room of 37 feet in length, 16 feet broad, and 20 feet high, cap- ped with a coved arch of ftone, fo clofe and firmly cemented, that it does not appear to admit any wa- ter, to which caufe it probably owes its fecurity hitherto from ruin. On the fouth fide of the wall are three niches, covered like the heads of fo many ftalls ill fome antient choirs. Clofe adjoining to it is afiother building, likewife covered with a cov^d arch <}f ftone, 2nd ccnfifting of two apartments, appearing to have been loftod, afvd from whence is rt pafi'age by a door into tlie church. This lat- ter place feems to have been the houfe v/here the in- ctirnbent had his refidence before the tranfiation of the parife church to Portaferry. The prefDyteriafis ha.ve a meeting-houfe at Portalcrry, and the papifts a mafs-houfe near the town. From Portaferry the roads break off into two branches, one leading O/Iong the fhore of the lake to Newtown, and from thence north to Bangor and 'Donaghadee ; the other extending along the eaft or back Ihore of the Irifli channel to Donaghadee. -About two miles north of Portaferry, near the hke of Strangford, ftands Abbacy or Ardquin, a good feat 3 and a mile north-eaft from thence is Ardchin, A TOUPv THROUGH IRELAND. ^ 343. Ardchin, an antient feat, very pleafantly fcated on the lake. The name of the place imports an high head^ and with great propriety, accordin.g. to the antient Si- tuation of the feat, which was a caftle and dwelling- houfe inclofed within a rampart, and ilranding boldly over the lake on a pretty high hill ; but this fituatioii being found inconvenient on account of its great ex- pofure to ftorms, the late Hugh Savage, efq; d.cmo- llfned the houfe, and ereited a new one lower down on the fhore of a little narrow bay formed here by the lough, called the Dorn, perhaps from fome refem- blance it bears to the haft of a fvvord^ which the word fignifies in Irifli. Two miles from Ardchin to the north, (lands Rheu- bane, or E<:hlin'3-Villa. The fpirit of agriculture^ fo "peculiarly neceflary to the welfare of the nation, has here been carried on to frngular advantage. About two miles north of Rheubane, and three- fourths of a mile eaft of the lake, is Inifliar^.y, another feat, having two frefli water lakes to thejiorth and fouth of it ; and ftill more north, near two miles, is Rofemount, once the manfion of Sir James Afont-; gomery, who built a noble houfe here, which was dsilrdyed in 16^5 by fire. The gardens behind it were laid out in form of a regular fortification, fonie bafrions of which are yet to be feen ; however, the prefent proprietor has a neat and commodious houfe here. He has made the old town of Gray . Abbey a new one, and intirely regular, by taking in a .large piece of land that the lake of Strangford overflowed, on which he has erefted handfome brick houfes covered with flate, for the habitation of manufacturers. The other two ftreets of this village are now carried ftrait, and decent houfes built for the inhabitants, who are flourifiiing in the lin?n trade. The diffent- ers have here a meeting-honfe. n\ -fti-. : 0^4 Gray 344 A TOUR through IRELAND. Gray abbey ftands very near Rofeinountj nothing but an orchard interponng between them. An i image madeof grey free-ftone in altc-relievo, much defaced, vvrith her hands clofed in apofture of devotion, is yet to be fee n fixed in d.n arch of the wall, on the left hand fide of the high altar. The remains of this ab- bey ftievv it to have been a large and fiimptuous build- ing. The eaft v/indow of the church is a noble piece" of Gothic ftrucEture, compofed of three com- partments, each fix feet and more wide, and up« wards of 20 feet high. On each fide of the altar in the north and fouth walls, is alfo a ftately v/indow of free-ftone neatly hewn and carved, of the fame breadth as the great eaft window, but fomething lower. They are now grown over with ivy, which gives them an awful appearance. The cells, dormitories, and other buildings for the ufes of the family are in ruins, and only enough remain- ing to trace out the compafs of ground which the whole ftrucSture occupied. A part of the weft end of this great building is rocfed, and fitted up for church fervice. In the gardens of this abbey is a large well of good water, over which is raifed a high vaulted arch, ornamented with heads, and fome other fculpture in fione, which feems to be the fame that flood here when the abbey fubfifted. A bell-metal pot, about eight inches high, made in form of a jug, ftanding on three feet, with a fpout projecting out of the fide, like a tea-pot, and a handle on the oppofite part, was found in 1722, twelve feet deep in a bog near the abbey, and is now depofited among other pieces of antiquity in the univerfity of Dublin. From Gray abbey we proceeded to Newtown, agreeably fituated on the moft northern point of the lake of Strangford, which at low water afFords a fine level ftrand for many miles. The A TOUR THROUGH IREDAND. 345 ■ The lake cf Strangford is naviga])le, and the tide flows up as far as this town ; yet the principal and moft beneficial trade of it is the linen manufafture^ and it is efpecially in repute for the fale of great quantities of fine diaper linen. The quakers have a faftory in it, and the prefbyterians two meeting- houfes. The old church of Nev/town Is a large building, divided into aiHes, by four handfome ftone arches of the Doric order, finiflied in 1632 ; the fteeple was finifhcd in 1636. The door under the fteeple is rn arch cu rioufly ornamented v/ith carved work in fi:on^:\ The iteeple is not high but neatly built, as well as the ftone ipire on it. The church is only kept roofed^ but is entirely out of repair within fide, and the feats.,; except a few, deftroyed ; for divine fervice is perform- ed in a chapel adjoining to it, the entrance into which is by a large ftone door cafe, curioufly adorned v^Itn, fculpture. This chapel is the neateft piece cf churck building within fide that is to be met v^ltk in Ulftcr ; the pulpit is finely carved and gilt, and fo are two large feats placed on each fide the great door,,ovei: which are the king's arms. The old houfe of the Montgomery family ftood, plcafantly feated on the edge of the lake, and the gardens, containing nine acres, are inclofed v/ith a high and firm wall, with flankers at each corner^ It was burned down fince, and all the remains ©f-it are the gate-houfe, (over which are fixed the Mont- gomery arms) and fome offices, which are now converted into a dwelling houfe and comnicn brev/ery. The market'houfe of this town is a handfoms ftructure, on the weft end of which is erecied a cupola with a public clock; before it ftands a neat octagon building of hewn ftone, adorned witk a flenfer ftone pillar on top of the fame form, whicK ferves the town for a market crofst 0.5 The 34'6 A TOUR THRoudM IRELAND* As the fituation cf this place is very pleafant, fo the air is pure and healthful. " It isilieltered to the north and weft by hillsj which ferve to break fhe winds on one hand, as the jflowing of the tide twice every day lip to the town, helps by its motion to keep the air from any ftagnation. From thence we proceeded to Moville, called al fa Maigeville, a monaftery of Auguftin canons, which was founded in 550, and ftood near an Engliili mile north-eafl' of Newtown, on the road to Donaghadee. Part of the ruins of the abbey church yet remain, and the. veftiges of large foundations appear within fide the cemetery, v/hich is ufed as fuch to the parifh of Newtown, there being no church yard in the laid town. From, Moville , we proceeded to }3angor, which ftands on the fouth fide of . the bay of Catrrickfergus, near four miles eaft-north-eaft of Newtown, a market- town and a borough. ■ The nianfion-houfe is only a lov^^ moderate JiItuc* ture ; but the gardens make ample amends, which are large and handlbme;^ and filled with noble eyer-greens of a great lize, Qut in various Ihape.s,^ ahiGng vviiich is ■ an ever-green oak, which, thgugh,, it grovvs as a fiirub in moft other places,- is here a tall ir.ee, and of a confideirabie girth. Ne^r.it ,to the caft, and a part of ■the manof /of Bangor, is the gre'4t bog of Cottoa ^n4 . Granfhav/, containing at leaft one thoufand ^crc:?c. ,y-,. The church of Bangor was built y/ithin the pre-- cin£ts of the old abbey, about 1617, and was not finiflied till -the year 1623 > both w^hieh particulars ap- pear fi omdates on a ftone in the fouth v/alis, and on an old oak pulpit, now lying in a corner of the church* The iLceple of it, through v/hich the entrance is into the church, is fupported , by an arch of nine firings or beads, not centring in a point, as many others do, but fpruiging at equal diftances round the arch from jIJ^UR THROUGH IRELAND. 347 -fide tcr ffde,: arrd an infcription thereon declares It was raifed in 16(^3. Etiirgor avjIs antiently famous for an abbey of ca- nons founded by St. Congall, about the -year 555. It took' its name, a Pulchro Choro, from its fair aifd v/hite choir, being called fo from the elegance of the building, eredled of lime and ftone, v/hich is faid to have been the firll of the fort made in Ulfter, but that it Was before called the Vale of Angels. A- fmail part of the ruins of Malachy's building yet ilcblifts, and the traces of the old foundation diicover it to have been of great extent. In the neighbourhood of Bangor to the eaft be- tween it and Donaghadee is nothing remarkable, ex- cept the feats of two or three gentlemen 3 as Echlin's Grove, &c. &c. From thence we proceeded to Donaghadee, feated on the north-eaft fide of the Ardes, oppofite to Port Patrick, in' North Britain, from v/he nee, leaving the fame point of the compal^, is a pa age of about ten leagifes ; it has a good market, and is the port wher-c the Scottifh packets land, which promote its trade, •The quay of- Donaghadee is made of large ftones in form of a crefcent, without any cement, and is • i2S"yards in length, and about 21 or 22 feet broad, befides a breaft w^all of the fame kind of ftones, about hx feet broad.' The town confifts of two principal itreeis (befid-:*s crofs lanes) one open -and expofed "he fea, and the other at the back of it, which is v/elL .aved. llie diiTenters have a large meeting-houfe here, 'and the conformifts a decent church, which, though an old building, is in good repair, and erefted in •form of: a crofs, with narrow gothic arched windows* ; At the well:' end of it is a fquare fteeple, not fo high the church, and feems never to have been ftnimed. The church ftands on. an eminence at the north- v/efl: 0,6 end 348 A TOUR through IRELAND- end of the town, and may be feen in clear weather from Port Patrick in Scotland. The rath at Donaghadee ftands on the north-eaft fide of the town,, on a natural hill of a tolerable height, which has been by art formed and fiiaped round, fo that the mount appears as if placed on another of the fame fort. On the top of it a hollow is cut from eaft to wefl-, the earth of which thro\vh up, has raifed part of the mount higher than the reft, and feems to have been intended as a place for a watch to difcover better the approaches of an enemy ; it is'encompafied by a large dry fofs, 33 feet broad in fome places, in fome 27, and in others lefs, out of which the mount was formed. The circumference at the bottom of the trench is 480 feet, but much more if meafured from the cutfide. The circumference at the top is 2ig feet, and the conical height on the north fide is 140 feet; you afcend the mount by fe- veral narrow paths, which are carried about it fpirally. End appear to have been originally made with the mount, from the top of which the bearings of feveral parts of Scotland and of the Ifle of Man appear very vifible in favourable weather. It is probable there is an arched gallery within the body of the mount, which, together with the town, are com- manded by a rifmg ground, about a quarter of a mile to the fouth, called Carnathen-hill, or Scots-hill ; and on the fouth fide of the rath is an area, or leveJ piece of a fine green fod, on which 3CCO men may be drawn up in nink and file. The other road, ftretching from Portaferry to Do- naghadee, clofe to the eaftern coaft, affords not many things remarkable. The tra£l of country north and fouth of Portaferry from north of Kirkiftown to Quintin Bay Point is ufuaily called, the Little Ardes, to diftinguifh it from the Great Ardes, that extend northward from thefe bounds to Donaghadee. As this part of the country has been often the feat of war A TOUR THROUGH Ix^vELAND. 34.9 war between the Irifli Septs and the favages, whole eftate it antiently was, and a good part of it flill is, we may expefl: to fee feveral caftles in it ; of which, befides the caftie of Portaferry before-mentioned, there are three yet remaining on the coaft, as Quintiu Bay Caflle, lying two miles fouth of Portaferry, an inconfiderable place called Tara ; New-Caille, franding boldly over the fea on a neck of land, three miles eaft of Portaferry ^ and Kikiftov/n-Caflle, near four miles north eaft of the fame place. Kirkiftown is an Englifli caftie, furrounded by a high wall, ftrongly built. A little v/eft-north -weft of Kirkif- town is the old ruined church of Slane. About half a mile weft of Slane ftand the remains of an old building, called Caftlebuy, or Johnfton, once a preceptory of St. John's of Jerufalem. From Kirkiftov/n, pafTmg along a light fandy fhore, we came in lefs than four miles to the village of Ballyhalbcrt. From thence we proceeded to Spring V ale, former- ly called Ballym.agown, a feat and good improve- ment, (landing on theeaftern coaft ; and not far from it, Ballyw^ater, a fmall village, containing nothing remarkable; and about a mile fouth of Donaghadee, Temple-Patrick orCragutboy, remarkable for a fpring of very fine water, frequented for thecure of the head- ach. We then proceeded again to Newtown, not far from whence are feveral gentlemen's feats, viz. Bally- leddy to the north ; Crawford's Burn, Cultra, Dun-*- lady, and Caftiehill ; nor muft we omit Orange- field, a new and elegant houfe, about a mile and a half fouth-eaft of Belfaft; having vifited which", we returned to the neighbourhood of Nev7town ; and went to the hill of Scraba, which begins to rife ^bouthalf a m.ile fouth of Newtown, and from its top affords a vaft extended profpeft. About A TOUR THROUGH IRE-LAND, About two miles north of Scraba rs another hi!! much higher, though in appearance lovt^er,^ becaufe it rifes more gradually, called Karn-^Gavr, or fHe Goats-Mount. We then went to Cumber,- or iJo.Ti. rcr, near taree 'miles fouth-weft of Newtown, v/hich ftands {)lea- fantly on a branch of the lake of Strangford, and near it is a pretty i^^at. Here is at low water a pleafant ftrand of fome thoufands of acres, and near the town a horfe-courfe of a noted fine Tod two miles In circuit. n r 1 The country fouth and fouth-weit of Cumber, for feveral miles is coarfe and hilly, and all we faw in it are a few fcattered ordinary villages, till we ar- rived at Saintfield, where is a good feat and confide- xable improvements from whence v/e turned north- weft, and found the country but thinly inhabited,, till we approached the river'Lagan, where it opens into a fairer profpeft, and there we met with feveral gentlemen's feats, as the caftle of Hill-hall, near Drumbo, a fquare fortification with four flankers Ballylaflbn, Purdyfburn, and Down, a good feat,, which flands on a fmall rifing hill in view^f the. river, v/hich here runs in meanders dov/n to Drurh- bridge on the road from Lifburn to Belfail. We went; on to Belvoir, a manfion about two miles foutlvdf Belfafl, pleafantly feated on the river Lagan, whicb by the help of the tide is navigable for boats to th;e:: "foot of the garden, the water there being from two^ to three feet'^and a half deep. The avenue is large,., 'handfome, and v/ell planted ; the gardens are formed but of an irregular glyn into regular walks, beaiiv- tified v/ith canals. , About half a mile eaft of Eelvoir, on an emmence,, rommandins; a profpea of Belfafl:, the bay and towfi. of Carrickfergus, and the country round it, appears jthe parifli church of Breda, a building the neateft,- and A TOUR THROUGH iRELAtsD, 551 and moft complete perhaps of this kind in the king- dom. It exclufive of the chance], 50 feet by 25, tnd 25 in heighth. From the middle of the church on each fide fprings a femicircle of 18 feet diameter, which, befides enlarging the room, adds greatly to the beauty of the building. The fteeple, with the fpire, built according to the exafl: proportions of archite£lure, catches the eyes of all travellers. Not much more than two miles eaft of Belvoir, and about as much fouth-eaft of Bel fail bridge, are the ruins of an ancient caftle, called Caflle-Reagh, from whence the barony of that name is denominated. It is fituated on the top of a hill, and in one of thofe forts, the eredlion of which is ufually afcribed to the Danes. This fort has a foffe which encompaffes three fourths of it, and once probably furrounded the whole. In the midft of the fort ftood the cafile. Three miles fouth of Belvoir, on the hill of Drum- boe, are the ruins of a church, 45 feet in length, and 20 broad; and at the north-weft corner of the church, ^4 feet diftant from it, ftands an old round tower, about 35 feet high, 47 in circumference, and 9 in the diameter in the clear,the entrance into which is on the eaft, 6 feet from the ground. It is the opinion of fome, that there has been a fmall fortified town on the hill of Drumboe, and that the foundation of the wall of it is at this day eafy to be feen ; and it is obferved, that the fpot of ground, whereon the t6wn feems to have ftood, is more fertile than any other round about it, which is imagined to have pro- ceeded from the lime and rubbifli of the houfes. The Giant's Ring, an artificial rath, ftands north of the tov/er of Drumboe near two miles, and is regularly thrown up, encompailing 2526 feet circum- ference, but it has no advantage of height. The ground about it is often ufed as a race-courfe, and contains 842 paces. About the middle of this rath ftands an antient Druidical monument, Contiguous to 3S2 A TOUR >r^RdtoJil)Il:EEANI>. to the rath, there was a fmall mount, formerly dug through to get ftones for building, in the middle of which great quantities of bones were found. We proceeded to Belfaft, in the county of Antrim, where there is a bridge, under w^liich the river Lagan empties itfelf into Carrickfergus Bay, and is one of t he moil ftately in the kingdom, confiding of tv/enty- one arches, all turned with hewn freeftone, ralfcd in the hill of Scraba, of which eighteen are on the county of Down fide, and three in the county of Antrim,, the channel dividing the tv/o counties running through the third arch. The whole bridge, including the dead work at each end, extended over the marfhy grounds, is 2562 feet long, of which the twenty-one arches take up 840 feet, and the dead work 1722 feet. The breadth of the arched part is twenty- two feet, and of the reil: nineteen. It was built at the joint ex pence of the two counties, and coft about Bcoo!. (fome fay i2-^cooL) The foundation of it was laid about the year 1682, and it was not completely tiniftied until the Revolution. The town is regular- ly built, and the flireets are broad and ftrait. Lord Dungannon has a feat here. I could not help re- marking the great number of Scots that refidje in this place, and who carry on a good trade with Scot- land. From thence we proceeded eight miles down* the river to Carrickfergus, its fea-port, which is fituated in a bay of its name in the Irifo Channel, where is an excellent harbour, with a ftrong caftle on a high reck, and an antient palace, nov/ converted into a miagazine for arms. It is a borough and market-town, fortified, w^alled, and has fome modern out works. Here is as fafe and fpacious a bay as any in Ireland, fomiC fev/ in the counties of Kerry and Galway excepted. The entrance into it is bold, being about five miles wide, and having a depth of water from twenty to twelve fathom, which grows gradually iliallower till you advance oppofite to the town A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. 353 town of Carrickfergus, where it is from five to eight fathom deep in the middle of the road. It grows narrower by degrees, for feveral leagues from the month to the bridge of Belfaft, where it is not above three quarters of a mile broad, if fo much; and there, at full fea, it is not above eight or nine feet ia depth, and at low w^atcr not above a foot, except in frelhes, when fomething deeper. At a mile diilance from the town of Carrickfergus fouth-w^eft, a baiik of fand llretches out, w^hich has on it a fathom and half at low water, and lies juft before the ro?.d ; and to the north and fouth it has two fathom, and further fouth-weft three. The bay of Carrickfergus will for ages to come be famous for the landing of duke Schomberg, who anchored in Grooms-Port bay, near Bangor, on the 13th of Auguft, 1689, with 10,000 men, fent by William III. The king hirnfelf followed the year after, and landed near Carrickfergus, June 14, 1690* The French under Thurot, made a dzi'ccnt here in 1760, and laid the town under contributions. . From Carrickfergus we returned thro' Belfaft to Antrim>, which is fituated within a mile of Lough- Neagh, on the banks of the Six-mile-water, over which it has a bridge. Near it is a fine park and a noble manfion. From Antrim we proceeded northward fix miles^ to Bailem.enah, and on the road faw a round tower at fome diilance, oh the eaft of which are the Sienifh Mountains. This village (lands on the banks of a branch of the Ravill Water, which we again crofled at Cloghbridge, about five miles further on. Here we inclined to the weftward, and proceeded to Bally- money; then turned eaftward to BallycaiHe, a little to the welt of Fairhead, and almoil the moft north- ern point of land of Ireland. From thence the road pafled weftward along the coaft to the Giant's Caufew^y, about three miles diftant, clofc by the 354 A' TOUR ^vmouim IRELAND. fea, into v/hich it runs out, iti a direction very nearly north from the foot of . a lofty cliff, that pro- jefts to an angular p6int between two fmall baySy,; v/hich are about half a mile wide, and about half' that diftance deep. The fituation of the caufeway between thefe two bays, or rocky lofty amphithe- atres., on either h-and, has fo me thing peculiarly! frri'king, a:nd -a'dds .-greatLy to the natural curiofity ofij tire caufeway itfelf. l"he prihci[i>al or grand caufe- way, (for there are fei/eral lefs confiderable and fcattc^rcd fragments of fiirjilar workmanfiiip,) con- 1 fills of a moft irregular arrangement of many hun- dred thoufands of columns, faced with whitiih free ftone colour, but internaliy a. black kind of rock,, or baniites^ hwrd ajS-nlaTbie. Thefe coltrmns are bfi uKiequal height and breadth; fome of the higheft, ! vifrbie abovir tht fur face of the ftrand, aiid at tha foot of the impending angular precipice, may be: about twenty feet ; they do not exceed this height^ I believe, at leafl none of the principal arrangement*! How deep they are fixed in the Itrand, was never yet difcovered. This grand arrangement extends vifiblyj at low water about 200 y^rds into the fea, how far! beyond is uncertain ; from its {helving appearance^ however, at the ebb of . the tide, it is probable it docs not fpread under v^^ at er to a difiance any thing equal to what is feen above. The breadth of the principal caufeway, which runs out in one continued^ range of columns, is, in general, from twenty to thirty feet, at one place or two it may be nearly forty, ' for a few yards. I exclude, in this account, the broken and fcattered pieces of the fame kind of conftruition, lying detached from the fides of the grand caufeway, as they did not appear to me to haTC ever been contiguous to the principal arrangement though they have frequently been taken into the width, w^hich has beeii the caufe of fuch wild and diffimilar reprefcntatidns exhibited;^ in different draW'*: ings»| A TOUR Ti-iRouGH IRELAND. 355.. i-ngs. The higlieft part is narrovv'efl: at the very foot of the impending clifF, from whence the whole projcv^s, where for four or five yards, it is not above 10 or 15 feet wide. The columns of this narrow part, incline from a perpendicular a little to the weft- ward, and from a ilope on their tops, by the very unequal height of the columns on the two fides, by which an afcent is made at the foot of the clifF, from the head of one column to the next above, gradatim, to the top of the great caufeway, which, at the dif- tance of half a dozen yards from the cliff', obtains a perpendicular pofition, and lowering in its general laeight, widens to between 20 and 30 feet, and for 100 yards nearly is always above water. The tops of the columns for this length being nearly of an equal height, form a grand parade, that may be eafily I walked on, rather inclining to the water's edge. I But from high water mark, as it is perpetually wafhed by the furge on every return of the tide, the platform lowers confiderably, and becomes more and more uneven, fo as not to be walked on, without the greateft precaution. At the diftance of 150 yards from the clifF, it turns a little to the eaft for 20 or 30 yards, and then finks into the fea. Thus far wc have traced the general figure and outlines only of J this extraordinary fubject; I will now point out the ? rcircumftances belonging to it, that are particuiarly Curious ; which are, the figure of the columns, their ) i confi:ru£tion , and clofe combination Vv^ith each other ; , together with the general difpofition of the leveral jjphjenomena of this kind about the place. The figure of the columns is in general pentagonal ; fome I few thei-e are, of three, four, fix and feven fides, bat 3 [the generality of them are pentagons, and the fpec- ; tator muft look very nicely to find any of a different 3 conftruclion : yet what is very wonderful, there are I I not two columns in many thoufands to be found, that - either have their fides equal among themfelves, or whofe 356 A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND,. v/hofe figures are fe can fcvvjay that runs , tout from thence to the fea, was., Qrigir*ally concealed ^^jin the very bowels of a fu perineum bent ciifi', which 2 by degreees, liiTi^ been peeled away from it ; and: the jji[oof.sr earth bsiing removed has left this more folid mafs I |of . couuruis. expofed to view, and v/hich v/ill probably . [remaiii for ages a monument of the exquifite work- jimanfiiip of nature. g I The romantic fuppoution of its having been, a caufe- )j w^y fi-'om Ire la n d to S co tl aia d: of " 30 or 4,0 m i k s . i n I length, is ridiculous and abfurd. at firft viev/ ; nor isi githe opinion in fom.e-of tlxe. old natural hiilorics of this j ikingdom lefs abfurd, that this as. well as Stonehenge . jaiay have. been originally a Druid temple. J : Such^ and many more whirnfical conje«5lures, v/ere ^ pap.ulpj', as long as it v»^as- commonly fuppofed to be g|the only, curioiity of its kind in the v/orld ; but the Ijimodern tafle for natural hiftory, and the fpirited in- IjVelligations promoted by it, have brought to light fe- vera] others of the fame clafs in different parts of Q Europe, and even in the near neighbourhood ; for the |idifcover.y of which we are indebted to the celebrated jimd ingenious Mr, Banks, v/ho has defcribed the ilupendous collections he found of thefe bafalric pil- 1^ liars among the Scottifh Hebrides ; particularly at the ^j ifles of ■ Staffa and Boo-flia-la, rhe latter of which is j entirely compofed of them, and without any fuper- ^ ttrate of earth. J. Thefe pillars, like thofe of Ireland, are af - unequal jidtitudes, and indeterminate in their figures ; feme being of four fides, others of five and fix, and fome jjDf feven ; but pentgons and fexagons are by much ^Itke moft prevalent, There is aUb a-fimilar irrcgu- {j llarity in i^heir thicknefs ^ the greateft diameter he met kith was of 53 inches. , Numerous 36d A TOUR through IRELAND. | : Numerous and extcnfive groups of the fame ftone, v/p are told by Mr. Demareft, are fpread over the French provinces of Auvergae and Velay, and Mr. Strange has defcribed two ranges, which he d i (covered j lately in the Venetian territory. The ftrufture, fituation, and other properties of all thefe different co!ie(51:ions, fufliciently correfponding, leave no room to queiHon their common affinity to each other. So that the only doubt remaining is, by what mechaniim | or operations of nature, aphsenomenon fo aftoniihing j and lingular has been produced? This is a matter I that cannot be eafily decided. The nioft plaufible theory feems to be, that it is a certain criftallization, or concretion of a very particular kind, and of vul- canic origin, W e find that nature has moulded a great variety of falts and cryftaline fubftances into prifmatic figures, but they are, it is true, of minute bulk. The bafaltic columns are of incomparably greater magnitude ; they are irregular polygons ; and ij the joints or pieces which compofe their fliafts, are held ! firmly together by an infertion of the ends, different from every other procefs of nature that we know of with refpe£t to inanimate bodies, though fom^ewhat rc- fembiing v/hat we may obferve in her ftrucSlnre of anl- luals. It is this latter circumftance v/hich chiefly muft fill us .with amazement. Leaving the Giant's \ caufeway v/ith thefe refleftions, we travelled about i two miles fouth-wefl: to the village of Bufh-mills, ' fituated on a river of the fame name, from v/hence we proceeded to Colerain, fix miles further, a neat little town^ on the river Ban, the principal outlet of Lough- Neagh, over which it has a bridge to the county of Londonderry, and near it a finall kearn or mount, eafily diftinguiflied from a rath, by not being fur- rounded by ditches or intrenchments. Many of v/hich I remarked in tiie county of Down. We proceeded fmm Colexain ten miles wefiv/ard to the fmail borough, but thriving mark^it-town, of Newtown Lamne\^addy, fituated I A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. 361 fituated on the Roe-water, near Lough Foyle ; from^ thence we kept clofe to the borders of that lough, till we arrived at MufF, a fmall village, about eight miles diftant ; where we turned more to the fouth- weft, and palled on to Londonderry, perhaps unex- ceptionably, the cleaneft, beft built, and moft beau- tifully fituated of any town in Ireland, and, except- ing Cork, as conveniently as any for commerce, fo- reign, or domeftic ; and, but for the reftridlions on the trade of Ireland, would, in a few years, become a flourifliing and wealthy city. It is fituated on a gentle eminence, of an oval form, and almoft a peninfulaat the bottom, and in a narrow part of Lough or Lake Foyle, which furrounds, for a quarter of a mile broad, two-thirds or more of the eminence, and might eafily be brought entirely round the city. Through this lough, it communicates with the fea, on the very north of Ireland. The whole ground plot of this city and its liber- ties, belongs to the twelve trades of London; from which circumftance it has obtained in our maps the name of Londonderry, but by the natives in and about it, it is commonly called by its original name of Derry. It is memorable, and for ever memorable it ought to be, for the fevere fiege it nobly fuftained for thir- teen weeks, in the reign of king William. It confifts chiefly of two ftreets, w^hich crofs each other, and an exchange is built in the centre. It is furrounded by walls, but I found no building worth defcribing. On leaving this place we entered the county of Donnegal, and after about fix miles further fouth-weft, paffed through Raphoe, a 'feiall place, honoured with a biflioprick. From thence about three miles, we paffed through a poor village called Convoy, on a branch of the Fin ; and in three miles m.ore Drumboe-, on the banks of the fame river ; when con- tinuing the fame courfe about fifteen miles further R traverfino- 3^2 A TO^JR THROUGH IREJ^AND, t^'^iverfing boga and mountains, we arnvie4 atPoncgalj where there is. a- good bridge ol fix arches,, and the ruins of a large caftle ; it is fituated at the bottom of the bay of the fame name on the weftern coaft of the l^ingdom. St. Patrick's Purgatory is within a few miles of this ghce^ in thie midft of a frnall lake, called Derg, At prefent little of this holy place remains, except the name. The next day we arrived at Ballyfhannon, a fmall tqwn, fituated near the fea, with a bridge of four- teen arches, over a river, which runs out of Lough Erne, which a little lower falls down a ridge of rpcks, about twelve feet, and at low water forms^^ne ,^of, the rnoft pidturefque caicades I. ever faww rer*dered frill more fingular and interelling by being the principal falmon-Ieap in, Ireland. This place carries on a tolerable trade, and is well, inhabited for its fituation, afnong bogs and lakes. Erom thei>ce we proceeded to BeJleek, afmall vil- lag^,., about five miles eaftward^ on the weftern extre* n^ity of Lough Erne ; and from thence vifited caftle Caldwell, on the north of the lough, from whence is a moft beautiful profpe£l of the lough, and its iflands, which are beautifully difperfed in the two lakes, and epc|:eed four hundred in number. It is not eafy to de- termine whether that number be greater in fummer or in wii^^er ; during this latter feafon the v/ater rifes Innifkillen is one of the moft confiderable inla;nd towns in tiie kingdom^ and ifa profpecS; is taken of it in R 2 the 364 A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. the fummer feafon, its fituation is delightful, on one of the iflands in the narrow part between the upper and lower lake, and which you cannot enter but by a bridge, at either end of the town. Lough (which is the native Irifti for lake) Erne is almoft every v/ay furrounded by mountains or lofty 4eminences, from many of which a general profpedi: of thelake, with its verdant iflands, is extremely fine, — The profpeil likewife from the town, or from the ifland on which it ftands, is inconceivably rural and beautiful, for the iflands are planted fo thick, efpe- cially on the upper, and fo intermixed on the furface of the lake, that look which way you will, the vifible and broken parts of the furface appear like fo many pieces of water irregularly laid out among the rifmg •woods, for every ifland uncxcept ion ably almofl:, is fertile of wood of various kinds. The ftiade of thefe woods, and the coolnefs of the v/ater, the diverfion of fifhing, and the infinite variety of figures deli- neated by the iflands of this extenfive lake, many of which are extremely rich and fertile, v/cre they well cultivated by the inhabitants who live on them (though you hardly fee a houfe in paffing the length of the lake, they are fuch low inconfiderable cabins, and concealed by the furrounding woods) would make this indeed a kind of rural venice, where the woods ap- pear to be the habitations, and the broken and wind- ing furface of the lake, the ftreets that lead from one ^ part of this aqueo-fy Ivan commomvealth to another. ,r.Such an infinitely variegated and mixed profpect of water, v/oods, iflands, and mountains, as ^dmoft every vv^here on the lake prefents itfelf, makes a voyage on lough Erne, in the fummer feafon, inexpreffibly pleafmg and entertaining to a ftranger unacquainted with fcenes of this kind. Innifkillen is joined to the main-land by two bridges, one of fix and the other of eight arches. From this town we went in a boat to the ifland of Devnifb, A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND; 365 about three miles ofF, and there faw the moft perfect round-tower in Ireland ; it is exz£tiy circular, fixty- nine feet high to the conical covering at the top^ which is fifteen feet more. It is forty-eight feet .in circumference, and the walls are three feet five inches thick ; thus the infide is only nine feet two inches ih diameter: befides the door, which is elevated niiie feet above the ground, there are feven fqu are holes ta admit the light. The whole tower is very neatly built with ftones of about a foot fquare, with fcarcely any cement or mortar, and the infide is almoft as fmooth as a gun-barrel. At the outfide bafe, a circle of ftohe vprojesSts five inches. Near it are the venerable ruins >of an abbey, which was built in 1449. About feven miles from Innifkillen are two caverns, , ; which we went to fee, but found them far inferior to the account related of them by the inhabitants of their neighbourhood; we therefore fliaped our courfe di- rectly fouth to the village of Swanlingbar, in the county of Cavan, a fmall place, near which is a ful- - phureous-nitrous fpring, much reforted to for health and pleafure, the water much refembling that of Harrow gate. From thence, paffing over Slieve Ruflell moun- tains, through the villages of Lifnover and Killifhan- dra, we arrived at Granard, in the county of Long- ford, near v/hich town is a large bath, or mount, in- clofed with circular intrenchments ; from the top of Vv'hich -is a very extenfive profpe6t, variegated with Vv'oods and innumerable lakes. We then proceeded S. W. about fix miles to Edgeworth tov/n and Ar- dagh, a bifnop's fee; through which we pafled to Lanefoorough, twelve miles diltant, fituated on the banks of the river Shannon, over which it has a ^^bridge into the county of Rofcommon. It has bar- gimcks for a troop of horfe and a company of foot. ,,f]W"e croiled the Shannon, and after fix or eight miles ^traveliino; S.W. came to Rofcommon, in the county R 3 of 366 A TOU^l rimp^uon IRELAND. of the feme name, which is fortified with a caftle, Puririg our Abort Itay here, we vifited the monailery ■of friar^^, preachers m^x it, where is now remaining^ in Ai>e Irilh marble, a monuinent of Feidelm 6 Con- jnc«*^ ;kring of Comiaught, who died in 1253, ^CiHi,ded by his body-guards, in their antient drefies ; T^rhich monument, with more than favage brutality w^vs, a few years fmce, confiderably defaced by a par- cel of dw^ken dragoons. From whence we proceeded S. E. about fourteen billies, Vhe-n we rcpaffed the Shannon, and entered A^hlone, ihe chief town in thefe parts. It is beauti^ ijuily fituated on both fides that river, over v^hich is a good ftone bridge. The views of this town, from I'Mj-u^ iiii^s the Shaii.npn, ^ire exceffively piiturefque, tiioHgh tlie couiitfy is ahnoft denuded of trees. I'he rm4^ are eyery where fuffieiently fertile, but little 4;jix),greis has been made in tillage, till within a few yisars j aiid they attribute the advacement of late, to credUo;^ of flGur-mills^ the want of which, I CfAicaiyc^ mp^ be a great impediment: to agriculture, J- or in mii#y p^art'S of Ireland, yery capa^ble of gri0w>- ing wheat, and where the confumption of bread is very confiderabk, -th^ey nevcrthelefs import their flour. Athione has a calHe and is a garrifon, having bar- racks fpr four troops of horfc and as many foot. It WAS formerly a bifhop's fee, and is now confiderable for its ftrength, being reckoned the key of Connaught, Tfeat part of it ly ing on the weftern fide of the Shan- non is called Irifh Town, and that on the eaft, Eng- lifli Tov/n; both of which betray fymptoms of decay, having no manufacSlure but hats, or any trade but for tiirf. From thence we pafTed into King's County, -.and arrived at Ferbane, fituated on the river Brufna, to which river the grand canal has a comniunipation from Dublin, and it being a branch of the Shannon, vfuns into it. From A TOUR THiiouGi^ IRETL^NET; ifi^ ¥^rom hence we made an excurfiOn of fi'x mfles to fee another bridge over the Shannon ; it was ere£i!ed in 17595 and confifts of nineteen arches, though thc^ ■river runs through fixteen only ^ it is about iifteen feet broad, upwards of four hundred long, and is neatly built of ftone. Three miles from this bridge are the ralrrs of feven ^'churches, with two round -tov/ers, the Itirgcit of which is broken towards the top ; the cJoor is twelve hit above the ground : the fmaller tower is tolerably en-- tire. Here are alfo two ft one croiies, fomewhat like thofe at Monefter-boice : they are each of a fingle fl:one, infertcd in a large fiquare one, ivhich ferves as a pedeftaL One of thtfe is fretted in baiib-rerievo 'y *on the ground lie the remains of two other crofles. The noble river Shannon, w^hich is the moft conil- ■<}erable that is to be found in any European iiland, takes its fource from a fpring among the mcuntains tiear Swanlingbar 3 it then falls into the Lough Al- len, which is a grand fheet of water, eight or nine 'itiiles in length, and four or five in breadth. It af- terwards runs through Lough Ree, a lake of about fifteen miles long, and beautifully diverfified with up- wards of fixty iflands, and fhortly after into a third 5» called the Lough Derg, v/hich is ftill larger, ahd upoh which about fifty iflands are fcattered ; the moil ex- ■tehfive of thofe, called Hanmore, contains above one hundred acres, well cultivated and fertile ; on another 5. called Holy Ifland, were the ruins of feven churches, and a high round tower. The Shannon then flows on to Limerick, and from thence is navigable to the . Tea, which is diftant fixty-three miles. There are in all fourteen bridges over this river, which above • Limerick is only navigable for Boats during a few miles, and on the lakes. From Trebane we proceeded to Birr, by m.uch the, leaft town in King's county, fituated on a branch 6f the Shannon. In the midfb of this town is a llrorte R 4. Golumn A TOUR THROUGH I RE LAN I>. column of the Doric order, with the fliaft about twenty-five feet high, on the top of which is placed a pedeftrian ftatue of the duke of Cumberland in a Roman habit, caft in lead, and painted ftone-colour, eredied in 1747. The caftle here was befieged by ge- Tieral Sarsfield, and relieved by Kirk. From Athlone to this place the country is chequered by the Bog of 'Allen, which croffes feveral counties, and which would not be oftenfive to the eye, as it looks like a Tuffet lawn, if the edges of it were not generally in- dented with turf holes, and heaps of turf piled on the banks. It is, however, a pleafure to fee them com- ^^ing into the cuftom of fowing rape on thefe bogs, and other unprofitable grounds. This culture is ow- ing to the Dublin Society, which gives yearly pre- lliiums for its encouragement. The great advantage of rape is, that it operates as a manure, and reclaims grounds, originally unable to yield oats, to fuch a degree, that they will afterwards give crops of barley and wheat. 7 Prom thence entering the county of Tipperary, and proceeding fix miles, we pafled through Burra- fakane, a poft town, and about feven miles further arrived at Nenagh, a neater village than ufual, in this county or province. Here ftands the ruins of an old caftle called Nenagh Round. It is indeed a poft town, fit uated on a branch of the Shannon that runs into Lough Derg. From thence we made an excur- fion into the county of Clare, on the oppofite fidp of the Shannon, and vifited Killaloe, the fee of a bilhcp, v/hich has feveral remains of the antient gran- deur, and among them, adjoining to the cathedral, are yet fome relics of the maufoleum of Briern Born, At the weftern end was the entrance, now clofed up, but the arch is vifible, fupported by tv/o pillars, which, though low, are covered with capitals of the Ion;c orders which is a convincing proof of the elegance ojf the^ building in fo early a time. From Nenagh we pro- A TOUR rrHROuGH IRELAND. 369 proceeded fouth, and pafled by the filver mines, as they ^re called ; and at about fourteen miles arrived at Li- [ merlck. The country north of Limerick is more disfigured ^with turf bogs than on the other fides. But, dif- agree able as their appearance is, they are not the leaft ^ profitable grounds ; and, when the canals are finifhed, they will become flill more beneficial, by lowering the ^ price of fuel. The fpinning of flax, which is a fe- ' dentary bufmefs, employing only one hand and one ..foot, could not be carried on without them in this king- dom, fo deftitute of wood, and fo unable to purchafe ,coals. Whereas, the" fpinning of wool, by giving . "^^xercife to the whole body, does not ftand fo much in need of fires ; and therefore feems to be the only manufaclure which can fucceed, where fuel is npt abundant. A great fhare of the country we rode through hir* ther was rough, and, in fome places, mountainouSv yet it afforded greater pleafure than the moft fertile parts for it (hewed incomparably more cultivation, and more figns of population. The houfes, we re- marked, grew more frequent, and lefs v/retched.,, wherever the grounds were bad. For not being . fit for paiiurage, they are obliged to till them ; tillage requires human creatures, who muik (hare fome pit- tance of their own labours. Within a ceijtur\% . Limerick v/as reckoned the fe- ^nd city i n Irelan d . At prefen t i t does, not feem to J)e.baif as Ifirge as Cork. It has loft its rank, .not be- c^ufe it thrives lefs, but becaufe Cork thrives mor^-j for, it is in fo flourifhing a (late, that. it has taken the lead-of Gaiv/ay and Waterford. ••^ Boate,. who v/rcte about a hundred years fi nee, W^nges the Irifli cities in the following order: Dub- lin,. Gal way, > Waterford^ Limerick, Cork, , and Lon? idonderry. As to the other tov/ns, he fays,, th^ teft of them, which are Drogheda, Kilkenny, Belr R 5 ' fafl-. 370 A TOUR THROUGH IRELAND. faft, &c. are hardly comparable to thofe market-toy7n^ which are to be found in all parts of England. But how greatly muft this order be now deranged, when it is univerfally believed, that the third town, in trade and .confequence, is Belfaft. In extent alfo, it comes next to Cork, for it has 5295 houfes. Limerick but 3859, and Waterford 2628. It is remarkable, that Newry, a town not fo much as named by Boate, has now more trade, houfes, and people, than Gal- way. Limerick is compofed of what is called the Irifh and the Englifli town. The latter ftands upon the fouth part of a piece of ground three miles in cir- Cumferenee, called the King's Ifland, formed by the Shannon, which divides itfelf about half a mile above the city. That part called the Irifli Town, is filthy and beg- garly beyond defcription ; but the .other part is not fo defpicable, efpecially about the quays, on one of which a neat cuftom-houfe was eredled in 1765, and a few ftraggllng houfes of brick were built. Both towns, in their antient ftate, corififted of one long wide rtreet, v/ell built, cut at right angles by many nar- rov/ lanes, in form of a comb, with double rows of teeth. ' . The Englifti and Irifh town are united together by a;i old bridge called Baal's. On the fame arm of the riyeiV ^^"^"^^J^ic^^i^^g v/ith the quays and the new ifreets, is an elegant bridge built in 1761, of thre^ arches; the middle one, of a fpan of forty feet, ad* mits boats under fail. The third bridge, thrown over the greater arm of the river, is called Thomond's, which is quite flat, and confifts of fourteen arches, of which no two are alike ; neither was there any rule of architeilure to be feen in conftrufting it, Thomond% and Baal's together are not as v/ide as the fourteen arches of Weilminfter-bridge, The mrrnvnefs of A TOUH THROUGH IRELANl^. the ftreets muft, I fuppofe, be attributed to its being an old fortrefs. But it is a place fortified by nature ; for, without the annoyance of GirGumjacent hi lis^ it is built upon an iiland, encircled by a ftrong barrier, the arms of the Shannon. It is now happily difmantled, and fcarce a trace of its old v/alls and feyentcen gates are. to be feen. Th:re are here three churches. The cathedral is a fubftantial Gothic pile, with a good ring of bells, and fome monumental decorations. It was originally a palace for the kings of Munfter, and built in the iith century. The cuftom-houfe is a very elegant' itiodern ftru£lure ; the pediment is fupported by fluted pilaliers ; the front has but five Vv^indows in a row^ yet, including the colonades, the whole elevation is near two hundred feet^ Here are the remains of a moft fpacious and magni- ficent mxonaftery yet ftanding, which juilifies the re~ mark, that Ireland abounded with the greateft nam- ' ber of Monks, and the moft fuperb raonafteries iri. Europe; as a further' proof of this, at Buan-ratha,, not far from Limerick, is a princely hall and fpacious chambers, the fine ftucco in many of which is yet vifible, though uninhabited for above a century. They once had a manrifafture of ferges,. but that is nearly extindt.. They are, hov/ever,, famous for making gloves ; and fome northern foldiers, who have b^en difcharged here, are giving birth to the weaving of linen, A few years ago the town flood on fix ty- four acre^. of g^rx)und, now it covers one hundred,, equal to i6o of our meafure. I The navigation of near 200 Englifli miles in, length,, 1^ communicating with that" leading fi^om Dublin^ through the bog of Allen,, muft in time make Lim^ rick one of the moft CQnfiderable places for important tien in the kingdom, ' 372 A TOUR i^HkotJGH IRELAND. From Limerick we went to Adare, which is a little village pleafantly fituated, and embellilhed with ruins of feveral churches and convents, rendered ele- gant by ivy, which almoft covers them. In this {lately ruin are fome remains of antient painting yet to be feen, particularly a bifliop with his crozier and mitre, giving his benedidion. St, Patrick, St. Bridget, and St. Columba, are very confpicuous. Having in my laft journey vifited the county of Kerry, the fouth-weft part of the kingdom, we here turned more eaftward, and proceeded about nine miles to Lough-Guir, near which, on the road fide, between Limerick and BrufF, is a druidical temple, confifting of three circles of ftones, the principal, which is about a hundred and fifty feet in diameter, confilis of forty fi;ones, of which the largeft is thirteen feet long, fix broad, and four thick. Thefe kinds of circles are to be met with in many parts of Ireland, but in no part of Europe fo perfect as this. Som.e of the fingle ftones of thefe circles exceed ^two tons weight ; and at the top of an hill adjoining, a fine cromlech now remains. This place and the adjacent lake, have been fiimous, from the remioteft antiquity, and of which many fabulous ftories are told ; near it was a famous city, or probably a druid Academy, as the name of Cathair, by which it yet goes, feems to declare, where the remains of ftreets, and marks of a town, may yet be traced. Having quitted thefe venerable rem.ains of heathenifli fuper- ftition, we proceeded through the little village of 'BrufF, and after riding a few miles, and flaring at "a fight fo unufual as a well planted park,, we unexpeii:- edly turned through an arch, under an old cafile, into a fpacious ftreet, compofed of houfes, which, though magnificent, were windowlefs and" rooflefs, called Killmallock. An inn v/as a found unknown here ; we got, how- ever, a ftable for our horfes, and a room, where I fuppofe A TQIXR THROUGH IRELAND. 37/j fuppofe a fire had not been kindled fince the laft elec- tion ; for thefe ruins fend two members to parlia- ment. Sheds were raifed within thefe noble ftruc- tures, too nally for the habitation of Englifh pigs, Happy would it be for Ireland, if her corporate towns were divefted of the privilege of returning repre- fentatives to the great council of the nation ; fox it becomes the felfifti policy of the lord of the foil to im- poverifti the voters into compliance. Killmallock muft be a place of high antiquity. It is reported to have been a walled town before the Eng- lifh got footing here. Sir James Ware relates, tha,t an abbey of dominicans, or black friars, was .built there in the thirteenth century by the fovereign, bre- thren, and commofialty. It formerly gave title to an earl, and preferves a greater fhare of magnificence, even in its ruins, than any thing I had yet feen i|i Ireland. I call it the Iriili Balbeck. , There is but one ftreet now {landing entire ; but. from fome fcattered piles, and from the foundatioa of others, there is reafon to fuppofe that there have been more. The walls round the town, which in many places ftill remain, are of an oblong fquare. At each angle has been a caftle, like thofe under which the traveller pafies, at the ends of the remain- ing ftreet.. One of thefe is the jail of the city. What muft we think of the jail of Killmallock, which is itfelf moft dreary of all prifons. From Killmallock we proceeded eafliivard to Ttp- perary, in the county of the fame name, and having compleatedmy fourth and laft rout I returned to Dub- lin, through Caftiel, Killynaule, Killkenny, Laugh- iin-bridge, Carlow, Bantinglas, Killcullen, Naas, and Rathcool, all of which places have been defcrib.ed m my former jourui^s* INDEX. INDEX. A. ^^BBACY Abbeyfeal Abbey Mabon Abbey Skrory Adon Adane Aghaderig Aghadoe Aghabolloge Aghamore Aghills Air of Bogs Altamira Amethifts Anabell Anaghaly Anahilt Angrove Annacloy Annagh Antiquities 157, 199, 220, 225 ^'275,277 308, 325 or Ardquin Page 342 383 218, 23c 368, 372 Antrim ^ragliu-houfe 223 213 310 372 260 194. 262 219 138 181 288 185 203 320 1 20 324 176 280, 298, 306, 33i> 337;366, 373. 35^ 125 Arahas Ardagh Ardchin Ardfennan Ardfert Ardglafs Ardholl Ardintenant Andrum Ardtully Arduum Arklow Armagh Armur's-hole Afdee Afligrove AfToIas Athboy Atherdee Athlone Athy B. BagnaPs-town. Balgrove Ballea Ballyally Ballyanon Ballybeg 217, 21 3 36s 342 128 285 327 328 212 118 229 261 3» 302 291 97 187 296 298 366 54 66 97 III 1 1 ST, 229 178; '1^1^275 BaTiybeggaa i Ballybeggan 284 Ballymoney^ 352 Ballybog 261 Ballymore Eullace 45 > S4 Ballyburian 290 Ballymurtogh 31 Ballycam bay BallynaclalTen 203 Ballycarberry 268 Ballynachora 121 Bally calHe 352 Ballynagown 349 Bally church 329 Bally nailack 1 1 1 Ballyclough 187 Ballynakill 59> 131 Bally Cotton 94 Ballynafkelig's ba] 262 Ballycrifpin zyz town 263 Ballydaniel 93 Ballynafpig I 10 Ballydehab 21 1 Ballyncolly ii7> 228 Ballydelea 97 Ballynehinch 323 Ballyderoon 125 Ballynemony 183, 193 Ballydcfmond 212 B ally n guile 178 Ballydivilm ibid. Ballinea I II Baliydougan 33^ Eallintobber ibid. Ballygamboone 272 Ballinward 22c Baliygarret 186 Ballyphilip 169, 342 Ballygarry 288 Bailyporen Ballygibbone 119 Ballyrenane Ballyroan 94 Ballygobbin 206 Ballygriffin 184 Ballyrochine 120 Ballyhalbert 349 Baliyroney 30a Bailyhaurican 288 Ballylhannon 362 Ballyheen 187 Ballyfeedy 282 Ballyheigh 288 Ballytone 56 Ballyhemic 183 Ballytotas Ballyhooly 170 R a 1 ] V V A f n A 5) Tl P> 116 T» 11 I- X. Ballyhoura mountains 171 Ballyvenine 221 Ballykealy ^7 Bally Virgone 93 T» 11 1 I- Ballylaughan 43 Ballyvogh-head 2r^' Ballyleddy 349 Bally Voher 170^ BallyleiTon 3^50 Baliyvourney 199 Ballymacboy 184 Ballywater ?40^ T> 1 1 11 Balrymacallen 169 Ballywiiliam Roe 44 Baliymacanden Balrudery 295 Ballymacoda 93 Baltimore 213 Ballvriiadnatrlck Baltinglafs 45 Baliymaloe 94 Ban agher- bri-dge Ban bridge Bally malus 3n Fallymenah 35^ Bandoa- bridge xi6 INDEX. Eanduff 221 Bangor 346 Bantry 206 Barley mount 261 Barloge bay 217 Barrow 35 Barry caftle ill, 174 Barry court 120 Barry's-hall Earrymore ifland Bawns, their ufe 227 Batto Bealachaneir Beal caiHe Bearhaven Bearforeil Belfaft Belleek Bellgcoly Belvelly Belvoir Beimel's bridge Beniykerry Birr Bilhop's-town Biihop fhipwrecked Black caftle Black rock Blackilairs mountains Blackftones Blarney Biefiington, BlofTom-fort Bogs, account of . of Allen 136, a - . Allenmoney m Cotton Cullen . . Granfhaw ■ Kilcrea - Monely 223 97 291 61 301 291 207 186 352 362 III 97 350 83 62 367 1 10 6s 212 207 41 269 118 46 187 132 143 310 346 346 228 131^ »38 Boggra mountains 193, 229 Bolus Head 263 Bottle-hill 193 St. Brandon's-hill 281 Breda 350 Briansford 302 Bride-bridge I2l ^Bridges 4 Bridgetown 184 St. B rigid 52 Brigowen 167 Britfield's town 1 11 Broghill 175 Bruff 372 Bruhenny 177 Bryanfton 22 Buan-rath 371 Burnham 275 Burrafakane 368 Burren caftle 223 Burris 41 Burros i44 Burton 177 Bufhfield 271 Bull-mills 360 Buttevant 172 C. Cabins 19, Cahe^as Cahir Cahircanaway Cahir-conrigh Cahirdonel Cahirdovvgan Cahirdriny Cahirkegan Carhir Trant 20, 51, 293 153. 197 268 269 mountains 273 z6z 184 166 197 275 Callan i I N D E X* 1^5 168 Callaii 84, 261 Calves i Hands 217 Canaboy 194 Canals 132, 144, 293, 366, 371 Cape Clear ifland 214 Cappanenlhy caftle 261 Carey fville 125 Carickabrick 125 Carickafouky 109 Carigaciifhion 189 Carigaline caflle 11 1 Cariganefs callle 210 CariganaiHck caille Cariganure Carigfcil caille 291 Cariglemleary 184 Cariglliky 218 Carignaconny 1 84 Carignacurra caflle 203 Carignamuch 194 Carigrohan caflle ii8 Carigtohill 120 Cariingtord bay . 299 Carlow 59, 61 Carnathen, or Scoi's-hill 348 Carrick-on-Sure 87 Carrickfergus 352 CaringoQie 186 Carton -park 142 Cafhel 131, 145 Caitie Audley / 337' Caitic Ballincarrlgy 225 Cafilebuy 349 Caftle C'aldvvell 362 Ca.itle Carberry 143 Caflle Comber 79 Caftle Conway 270 Caftle Corith ' . 187 Caftle Dermot' ' 57, 209 Caflle Dod Caflle Donavvan Caflle Drum Caflle Durrow Caflle Fiery Caflle Freke Caflle Gregory Caaie Hide Caflle Hill Caflle Hume 206 zy-z 250 221 281 125 349 362 Caflle Inchy 118, 22^ Caflle Ifhin 176 Caflle Ifland 283 Caflle KifHn , 184 Caflle Lough 257 Caflle Lyons 122, 124 Caflle Mac AwlifF 189 Cafllemain 271 Cafllemain bay 258 Caftle Manger 187 Callle M.'irtyr 93 Caflle Mary 95 Caille Moghan 212 Caillemore 192, 226 Caflle of the White KnigHt Caftle Pooky 173 Caftle Reagh 351 Caflle Saffron 1S2 Caflle Salem 221 Caille Screen 3 28 Caille Shannon 288 Caflle Sybil 280 Callle town 142, 209, 217 Callletowai Roche 183 Caflle Townfend 2 1 7 CafUe Veil en 305 Cafllevvard 336, 337 Ga^arads 23,;; 208;, ajj, ' 29fc>, 304 Caverns INDEX. Caverns 117, 120, 184, 194, 220, 268, 285, 290, 322, 326, 327, Caum-Carig hill Chalybeat. See Springs, Charleville Chellerficld, earl Chetwynd Chore abbey Church-town ClanConnell Clare Clare iiland Clara hill Clodagh caflle Clcghbridge Cloghamon Clogheen Cloghers Cloghgrenan Cloghroe Clogleagh Clognakilly Ciomines Clonallan Clondrohid Clonegall Clonlea Clonlifli Clonmell Clonmene Clonpreft Clontarf Clooncurry Clough Clown Callow Cloyne Clundalkin Clun Mac Nois Codrum 121, 185, 221, 224, 302, 304, 341' 365 229 Mineral of 118, 221 87. J7S 3 1 10 120 177 313 293 216 229 19s 352 43 127 282 63 229 126 225 35 301 197 43 90 284 129 190 93 294 H3 324 225 94 49 298 Coil bridge Coleraine Comolin Connaught Coney Ifland Connorfville 204, Connough callle Convey Coolemore Cooline Cool-long Coolmaine Coolemoreen Coolroe Copper mines Coppercjuin Cork — - harbour Corkbeg Coronody Corpfe, remarkable Corribinny Point Cot's rock Court Mac Sherry ~— harbour Cove 96 Coyne bridge Crawford's Burn Creditor (heltered Creeve rocks Creg callle Cromlech 22, 305, 306, 329, Crook-haven Crook's town Crone bawn CrofTes, antique, 50, 58, 199, 215, 228, 265^ 296, 298, 30^j 3;l i, 353, 367 Crofs-havea in Crotto 36b 20S 21 208 225 122 361 I 1 I 176 211 224 22S 31 124 96 95 \i% one 96 95 222^ 22'3 336' 349 6*3 30^ 169 126, 37* 212 22S 3i 53. INDEX, Crotto 289 Cullen 189 Cultivation, Hate of 156 ■ , decay of 200 Cultra 349 Cumber, or Comerer 350 Cumberland, ftatue of the duke of 368 Cumeraghs 167 Curiofities 10, 107, 126, 157, 183, 192, 194, 195, 201, 261, 267, 292, 307 Curragh of Kildare 51 Currans 283 Curryglafs 123 D. Daniels town 170 Danes, hated by the Triih 108 Danifii antiquities. See C u r i o fi t i-e vS , A n t i q u i ti e s , Raths, Kairns, &c, Daunce mountains 203 Dawllon i 19 Dericklagh 309 DeviPs Punch-bowl 230, 250 " ■ " ■ ■ Caille 290 Devnifh 364 Di-ngle 274 Dinifh ifland 262 Dog's Nofe Point 96 Donaghadee 347 Donaghmore 194, 308, 311 Donard mountain 302 Doneraile ' .vjjOr l8l Donegal .5^ : ^^362 Donnybrook - iio St. Doologh's Wett 296 Douglafs *■ Jl:>V£ii,<;hl;lO Dowlas Head Down Dow nan Downeen Down Patrick Drimefen Drogheda Dromagh Dromalegue Dromare Dromarh Dromy 268 44 221 42 296 189 206 320 321 m Druidical altar 95, 199,372 Drumaneen 190 Drumbane 319 Drumboe 350, 361 Hill 351 Drumdeer 183 Drumdowne 186 Drumgoolan 306, 307 Drumraftili 190 Drumfhicane 189 Drug mountains 269 Du Aragil 189 Dublin bay and harbour z ~- city ibid* number of its inha- bitants 3 fquares ibid. barracks 4 — . bridges ibid. — - — caftle 5 — ftatues ibid. churches ibid. parliament houfc ibid. manfion-houfe 12 — — lying-in-hofpital 1 3 — — - — hofpitals 14 ^ ■ ' ' poor houfe 15 ■ ~ theatres 15 -~ — — carriages i6 Dunanore INDEX. Dunanore Dunafhead Danbaarry D unbeaten caftle Dun bog Duncannon fort Dundalk Dundaneere Dundarerk D undede D underrovv i)unc Dunegal Dunelong Dungannon Dungarvon Dungneen Dunkettle Dunlady Dunlaven Dunleeny Dunlow Dimmahon Dunmanus bay — caflle Dunmanaway Dunmore cave ' — — houfc •— — head Dunuflcy Dunworly DuiTey ifles E. 214 181 211 209 35 299 116 igS 221 290 216 ibid 316 276 120 349 66 257 169 21 1 212 203 77 276 195 224. 210 Eagles neils iii, 224, 238, 270, 290 lidilin's villa grave Edenderry E dge worth Egmont 343 347 365 178 Ellenmoney bog [hd-- Ennis Ennifcorthy Ennisfallen ifls^Oi ciu^i^ Erynach a; ^ Evil> cured by Lough- Neagh Exports 101, Eyres court F. Falrhead Fairy rock Fane Farnafs Feathered Fenit illand Ferbane bridge 293, Fergus Fermoy 124, Ferns Ferriters iflands Fewtovvn St. Field Finnibroge Filhing bay Five-mile bridge Fiefk Floating iflands Fort Cheller -^g Fort Del Ore. ^ Foxes Caftle G. Galleon poin|;nBm^ngfij1!^a S Gallerus bii:^rir^t^o Galley-head . > -oj- parry HaddoUi}- Jii5x64^ Gary hill 43 Garry .218 Garry- I N D E X. Garry-hafly 228 Gaul-bally 166 202 2 16 225 250 363 St. John's Point ^ 325 Ireland, its divifion in pro- vinces, &c. 21 Irifh poor, their wretched ftate 19, 20, 153 IriftiTown 2, 366 Irilh anti^nt drefs 86 Irrelagh 256 I^on mill 85 works 257 Iflands, in Strangford lake 339 Iveach mountain 308, 328 J. Jews Johnfon's bridge Johnftown Kairns Kanturk Karrick Kate's hole Keemore Kells Kelly mount Kelly's town Kerry mountains 171, 200, 'U^ head>q'^ Kikiftown cMr Kilabrahar Kilbarry Kilbolane Kilbrenin Kilbrin Kilbronny Kilcock Kilcoe Kilcow Kilcolman Kilcool Kiicofh Kilcrea Kilcroghan Kilcullen bridge Kilcumber Kildare 18 143 169 306, 350, 360 187 34 180 219 82, 296 63 211, Kilkenny Kilkerrin Killarney houfe callle coal-pits 229, lake S2> ^52;88 ^349 181 19s Killagh Killaloe Killeen Killeigh Killedmund Killeleagh Killemby Kiilenaule Killenene Killenne Killinchy Killifhandra Kilmacabea Killmadhomas Killmallock Killough Killycloin Kilmacow Kilmedy 176 226 187 301 143 213 283 271 30 226 261 . 55 ibid. 170 131 12 68 75 79 224 246, 260 230 271 368 I 200 ■ 41:1 263 2.68 282 341 365 219 90 372 325 i 120: 122 ' 229 Kilmelchedor il I N D E X Kilmelchedor 280 Kilmore 324 Kilmurry 195, 226 Kiln am artery 198 Kilnemullagh 172 Kilorgliii 258, 270, 284 Kilowen iii, 119 Kilflianick 190 Kiltallagh 272 Kiiworth mountains 127 Kineigh 226 Kingfale 1 1 1 King's Wefton 336 Knights Templars 44, 92 Knockane 269 Knockan-ni-croich hill 195 Knockmeledown 167, 203 Knockmourne 122 Knockniclafhy 190 Knockninofs 1B7 K.nockowen hill 217 JK^^nocktopher d.^ Labacally Lakes Lake-lane \ Itanefborough X[arotagh , Lieamcon J^Jjeap Glyn / Leighlin . Leighlin-bridge I^eighlinftowft Leinller Leixlip I^emon ifle , Leffecrefig , I^ick caftle Lickialh . Limerick 201 126 230 230 212 Z18 . ?4 22 21 140 264 ^97 290 369 Linen manufadury tn^ CO u raged 204 L'Ifle, or Little Ifle 98 Lilburn 315 LircarroU 179 Lifgriffin i8i Lifize 308 Liflaghan 292, Lifmorc 123 Lifnegar 121 Lifnover 365 Liftowel 289 Littertinlis 213 Littur 268 — ■ caftle 29 X Little England 3 1 5 Lixnaw 28 S Loghart 187 Lombard's town 190 Londonderry 361 Longfield 190 Longford-pafs igi Longevity 154 Long Ifland 21 2 Lough Allen 367 — ■ AUua 2Q0 — — Balline 219 Beg 315 ■ ' Bnckian 310 ~ Coyn, 33$ ' " Derg 362, 367 ' ■ Dian 310 Dorn 343 Driiie 219 Earn 315 — Erne 362 ' ' ' on mount Gabriel 212 Foyle 361 Guir 372 Lough INDEX. Lougli in ifland 324 ' " Kernan 312 Lee J or Curane 262 Lheighs 3 17 « — Neagh 315 — Ree 367 ^ Shark 3 i o Low Grange 66 Lowram 43 Louth 298 Lurgan 3^9> 3H M. Mac-Ida 287 Mac- gilly - cuddy's caflle and reeks 251, 269 Macloney 125, 195 Macrocmp 194, 196, 229 Magheredroll 323 Magheries bay 281 Maghereinch 319 Magherelin 313 Magowrney 194 Mahallagh ibid Mahera 307 Mallow 185, 191 Mangerton mountain 210, 229 Marble mills 76 Marli 41 Marriage, their only folace 154 Mary boro ugh no, 131, 223 Marybrook 324 Mary G^erane's houfe 276 Mafhanaglafs 194 Mafe courfe 3 1 9 Maynooth 143 Meadflown 1 1 1 Michael's town x66 Middle down Middle town 120, 121 Milk, where fold 20 Mill-ilreet 229 Mill town 176, 271 Minard 274 Minegahane 288 Mineral fprings 32, 34, 42, 43, 116, 117, 123, 124, 140, 168, 185, 187, 268, 272, 275, 285, 323, 326 Mines 79, m, 189, 250, 2S7> 3^9 Mmterliarry 211 Miros 218 Mizenhead 212 Mogeely 94 Mohan agh 206 Mohili 63 Monallen 309 Monaniny 1 84 Monailereven 131 Moneflerboice 298 Monk's town 97 Monro's grove 313 Monuments 5, 37, 47, 52, 55, 58, 63, 65, 68, 69, 73, 92, 121, 126, 127, 144, 148, 172, 173, 184, 192, 213, 222, 226, 227, 273, 285, 289, 292, 3293 33^ 352> 3^6, 368 Moofe deer horns 59, 92, 94» 95' 157 Moville, or Maigeviiie 346 Moviddy 226 Moun 57 Mount Gabriel 212 hall 301 Leader 229 Leinfter 41, 61 ] 1 1 Mount Long MoantNortli l86 Mount Rivers 194 Mount Uniack 93 Mourne i86, 192, 325 Mucrufs 248, 254 St. MuUin, or Teghmolin 40 Muff 361 Munller 21 My Lady's Well 99 Murdering Glyn 206 Mufkerry mountains 193, 229 MuttGfi, very large 208 N. Naas ^ 54- Nagle mountains 170, 172 Nakednefs not indecent 155 Narragmore 56 Navan 296 Neagh 368 New abbey 55 Newborough 32 Newbury 190 Newcaftle 30, 131, 301, 349 New Market 189 New Pallice 258 Newry 299 Newtown 344, 349 Nine-mile-houfe 87 Nohavel 189 North Down 3 1 Northern illand 277 North ftrand 18 Nuc^ town 226 O. Obelifk nearDrogheda 296 Odorney Old court Omerg Orangefield Oriel abbey Oflified man 289 170 195 349 261 II Ovens Oyfter-haven knife-handles 107' 117 in P. Palare Anne Palatine's town Pallice Park, large dfte Paffage PafTage fort St. Patrick's ifle Paulville Peake 225 60 190 151 i95 44. 194 Petrifying quality 92, 318 Pharabry ' J 63 Phoenix park 3 Pheal 225 Philipflown 144 Piaure of Mr. Twifs 17 Pilchard fiihery decayed 207 Pilgrimages 202, 265 Plantations, how to difpoie 166 Pointz's Pafs 310 Popery prevalent 1^0 Portaferry " 341 Port St. An>ne 3^ Poverty 18, 19, 21, 80, ici, I46, 149, 175, 295 Pouladuff 221 Poulne-long caflle 115 Powerfcourt 22 „ ^ cafcade or wa- tcr 23 S Preceptory I N D E X, Preteptory f^rice of land Priefl, a ftory of one -'s Leap 184 156 89 210 62 257 23S 229 Profanation punifhed Profped-hall Frofpeds 2, 22, 23, 29, 47, 62, 87, 92, 93, 94, 95, III, 112, 116, 149, 153, J71, 191, 198 200, 212, 219, 230, 269, 282, 289, V9\ 334» 364- Puffin ifland 263 Pufdyiburn 350 <^akers, colony of X^arter town Quern ifland ,<^iiitin bay caflle %. ^• ' Kabbit ifland ' S.ace-ground Racrofs church Rahanine Rahihe caltle Rainbow bridge Ram ifland iiaphae Hatafs Rathanane caille Rathclarin Rathcool Rathcormuck 121. Rathdown 30 Rath5 or Danifli fortifica- tions, 57, 68, 115, 121, 308, 313, 321, 324, 328, 334' 34^> 3S^> 3^5- 56 185 277 349 250 282 287 2i8 263 316 361 284 275 223 124- Rattoo , Ravili water Reeks mountains Rheubane, or Echlin's villa 34^ Richardilown Riggfdale Rinabelly Rincrew Rinedizart Ringdufl^erin Ringfort Ringhaddy Rinny caiile Riv^ers fubterraneous 94, 117, River Araglin — Arigidean ■ ' Avvbeg 170 Ban 3 59 I ! I ibid* 92 207 341 r/6 341 170 93^ 121 125 222 , 176 3^9' 3^3' 360 Bandon 115, 203, 225 Barrow 35', 40, 41, 57, 61, 64, 66, 131 Barren • Boyne 143, • Blarney 1 18, . Blackwater 143' ' Broadwater . Brick Bride Bregah Brufna Burren Buflimills Carra Cloady 121, 61 296 ^93 124* 169 129 28S 227 73 366 62 360 269 43 Clydagh 191, 193 Curloom 207 Cuflier 3®SL' I N D E X, Biver Dowr 94 — — ^„ Dripfey 193, 194 Feal 288, 289 — Fergus 293 — Fartin 269 — Fin-awn 193 Firs 361 . _ FIcfk 229, 283 Foherifli 193 — ' Four- mile-water 211 ^ Funcheon 125, 169 ^ Galley 2&8 Glanmirc 120 Grifs 56, 57 — lien 213 — Inny 262 — Kenmalr 210, 254 — King's-river 82, 84 ^ Lea 98, 99, 194, 195, 200, 203, 228 Lany 193, 195 — , Lane 257 « Lagan 3x4? 321, ^ 350 ^ Leigh 281 — — Letrim 31 ^— ^ Lyre 198 — Litty 2, 18, 45, 55, 140 ^ — — Mange 250, 271, 283 — Moyallah 207 — Mulia 172 — Nevvre 68, 73, 82, 299 ^ Noire 131, 144 — Nure 35 ^ Ovane 193, 207 V,., u- Oroca^ 3 I Oonbiiry 1 10, ill River Rory " 22J Shannon 290!, 29 iV » ' ' Six-mile-water 35;: Slane 33, 43, 45 ^ Slidery-foord 32 ~ — — Suire 35, 87, li'^ 144 SuIIane ^95 Toone 20a River's Town 119 Roads defcribed 17^ 25, 35, 51, 61, 62,98, no, 112, 118, 1 19, 127, 129, 131, 144, 168, 178, 186, 196, 201, 203, 204, 211, 219, 229, 272, 283, 286,295, 298, 3 JO, 312, 367. Roaring-water bay 211, 213 Robertf!own 122 Rochford's town no Rockfield 187 Rockfavage 41 Rocklborough 121 Rocks, how to fplit 197 Rockv/ood 257 Roe- water 361 Rofemount 343 Rofs Old and New 3.9 Roiicarberry 220 RofTcommon 365 Rofsbrin 211 Rofs ifland 251 Rofs Ibarcan 40 Rofs Mac Owen 208 RofTmore 120 Rofs Trevor 301 Rofstillian 95 Roflrea 1 44 Racool 193 S 2 Rotind f ¥t t> E sr. V Rcund towef sjr, 49, 53, 56, 58^ 68, 95, 146, 168, 199, 226, 261, 292, 294, 296, 298, 31:6, 331, 351, ^4 35^' 3%' 367- jfjloyal Oak-inn 65 ^Riiftieen 291 {Biiitland 60 Saint field 35^0 Saint Olave's cap 194 Salmon leaps 140, 362 — fifhery 123 Saltpans ig6 Sancto Mauro 218 San try 294 Sansfield court 119 Saul abbey 336 Scalp 23 ScarifF ,262 ScarraghPafs 311 Scattery lflan4 292 Scatterie Iflands 339 St. Scorbip's well 326 Scrabahill 349 Seaford ^24 Sea, incroaclijmcnt of 92, Sea Patrick 3 1 2 Sephin rock 305 Shandangcn 195 Shannon park 1 1 1 Sheepfhead point 207 Sheefhy mountains 203 Sherkrn Ifle 214 ^Sherebloomy mountains Short caftle 165 Shrone-hill ic6 Sirmount Skeleton found in a 22B bog 132 of a giant 10 remarkable one of a monfter Skeliggs Ifles Skerries Skibbereen Skiddy's Skull — — harbour Slane « Slevvgan mountains Slenifh mountains Slide foord II 92 263 295 213 lOI 212 2|2 349 r 3^5 Slieve Beingan mountains 3^4 — Croob mountain 306 — Dona^rd mountain 302 Mifs 272 Slieve-na-Grideal mount 32,8 Slieven air mountain ^02 Slieve RufTel mountain 365 Sliev^e Snavon mountain 30+ Smerewick harbour 276 Snugborough 228 Sommerville 190 Spanifh liland 216 Spaw Wells. See Mineral Springs. Spikp 96, 97 Springfield 179 Spring Vale 349 Squince 218 Stags rocks 216 Stapleilown 62 Stapletown Statues r N D E X. Statues ,^tiIIorgan park ^;Stone edinces, the 5 22 fiiTt in Ireland 277, 280. Round Towers. Strangford lake Straw hall Struel wells Subterraneous tlinb€r See 338 226 329 136, 309 18 ibid. Sugarloaf hills Summer hills Superftition 194, 199, 226, 256, 262, 265, 287, 303, 329, 361. €upple's court Surmount Swan I Hand Swanlingbar ;^%camoie tree yery 93 118 33^' 339 365 large ii8 Taghmon Tailowhill : Tallow, or.Taulaght Tarra Tar ah, or Team or Teernigoofe Teghmoiin Temple Brien r ' ' — Gaurin . Michael , Koe Timber trees found in bogs „ ^ 13^^309 Timolin Timoleagu# Toe head Tobberbunn)r Togher caftle Tomes Toom Toonmor6 Town Michell Terbert Teryhogan Thomas town Three-callie head Three-fillers hills ' 82, 48 349 142 2V.3 40 225 309 192 261 292 310 212 279 144 57 221 218 •203 316 176 186 Townfend, lord, anecdote of 164 Trabolgan 95 Tradon abbey in Tra Kieran cove 214 Tralee bay 281 , town 284 Tr along 221 Trim 296 Trinity college, Dublin .8 Tubrid 287 Tuliamore H4' 3^^ Tulligarron • ^ ..284 Tullogh :i44 Tulleiih 31,3 Tumuli 96. See Kearnsi. Turf, how produced 132 T ur k mouatain • . 2 3-2 Tuitan pafs 3 11 V. Valentia Jfland Ventry harbour Verfailles Uiiler Univerfi ty Volcano 267 (6 2i 9 290 3:100 183 178 337 313 321 225 WalPs town Wallh's town - ' ■■ caftle WaringHown Waringsford Warren's brook Water- fall at Barloge bay 187 r i > ' ' — in Limerick 290 ~— — near Lough Erne 362 at Mangerton 254 ^ij-. 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