Ulrich Middeldorf 
 
- 
 
Digitized by the Internet Archive 
 in 2015 
 
 
 https://archive.org/details/voyageofitalyorcOOIass 
 
THE 
 
 VOYAGE 
 
 ITALY 
 
 OR, A 
 
 Compleat JOURNEY through 
 
 ITALY 
 
 In Two Parts. 
 
 With the Characters of the People , and the 
 Defcription of the Chief Towns , Churches , 
 Monafteries , Tombs , Libraries , Palaces, Villas, 
 Gardens, Pictures, Statues, and Antiquities. 
 
 AS ALSO, 
 
 Of the Inter eft. Government , Riches, 
 Force , &c. of all the Princes . 
 
 With lnftrudtions concerning TRAVEL. 
 
 By Richard Laffels , Gent, who Travelled 
 through Italy Five times , as Tutor to fe- 
 veral of the Englijh Nobility and Gentry* 
 
 LONDON 
 
 Printed for !{. C* ^ and A. C , and are to be fold 
 by Charles Shortgtave at the Turks Bead, in St. fauls 
 Church-yard, MDCLXXXVI. 
 
TO THE 
 
 RIGHT HONOURABLE 
 
 And molt truly Noble LORD, 
 
 RICHARD 
 
 LORD LV MLET, 
 
 VICOUNT WATERFORD, &c. 
 
 ' My L O R D, 
 
 * 
 
 I T were needle fs to tell you, by how 
 many Titles this little Orphan 
 Book , claims the honour of your Lord- 
 jbips protection. Firft , by the law of 
 Feature , it’s parent dying in your Ser- 
 vice, you flan l bound to be a Fofler- 
 A 3 Fa - 
 
Fattier to it • again it having been my 
 Fortune to contribute fomething to 
 the bringing it forth to light > it hath 
 a new relation to you under the Title 
 by which I have long ago confecrated 
 all my Endeavours to your Service. 
 But topafs by thefe two , there is yet a 
 third reaj on, whereby it will appear y 
 not the ejfebl of choife but of necejfity y 
 that it fhould come forth under the 
 favour of your name : The Well ground- 
 ed experience which you have gained 
 in your Travels ■ the exaB and judi- 
 cious Account you are able to give of 
 the places you have pen , which make 
 a great part of the Subject of this Booh 
 the mature judgment of the inter efts of 
 States , and manners of people whereof 
 it treats , which in you is not the after- 
 fruit of age ; the Gentile and courteous 
 behaviour which you have acquired y 
 and which charms all tho fe who have 
 the Honour to conVerfe with you : 
 
 Theft s 
 
Thefe,I fay , are Verities fo peculiar to 
 your Terfon, and fo confpicuous in the 
 eyes of all the world , that the defign 
 of this Book being to form the like in 
 the reft of the Gentry of our Ifation 
 that pretend to travel , it would be a 
 wrong to the publick , to let it appear 
 ■under the Tatronage of any other than 
 of him, that is the Idea of an accompli* 
 jhed and confummate Traveller. And 
 this, 1 doubt not, was the feafon, 
 why the Author having had the ho * 
 nour to have been a GoVernour to fo 
 many of the flower of our Gentry, 
 made choice of your Lordjhip to be- 
 queath this work unto , by his lajl 
 Will and Tefi ament : And which ini* 
 pofeth upon me a necefjity both in 
 complyance to the memory of my wor- 
 thy Friend and Fellow Traveller, and 
 ti the Duty I owe mto your Lord- 
 fnp, by the honour 1 have to jucceed 
 mto him in his lajl engagement , to 
 A 4 of* 
 
cffer up this his lajl work, to you , as 
 an eVerUJling Monument of efteem 
 and gratitude , of him, who , while he 
 lived, ever was, and of bim,who , living, 
 ever is, 
 
 ft 
 
 MY LORD, 
 
 Your Lordiliips moft humble 
 
 ><' •• . • 
 
 ?tnd moft obedient Servant^ 
 
 6'. Wilfon. 
 
A 
 
 PREFACE 
 
 TO THE 
 
 READER, 
 
 CONCERNING 
 
 T ravelling. 
 
 W HEN I firft fet Pen to Paper to 
 handle this fubjeft, I had not 
 the leaft thought of the Prefs ; 
 nor of erecting my felf into an Ant hour. 
 I only dilcharged my memory haftily of 
 fbme things which I had leen in Italy ; 
 and wrapt up that untimely Embryo in 
 five lheets of Paper, for the ule of a No- 
 ble perfon, who let me that task. Yet 
 this Embryo liking the perlon for whom it 
 was conceived, obliged me to lick it over 
 Rnd over again, and bring it into better 
 form. Second thoughts, and lucceeding 
 
 Voyages 
 
Voyages into Italy , have finifhed it at 
 laft, and have made it what it is ; A Corn- 
 pleat Voyage , and an exaft Itinerary 
 through Italy. 
 
 And here I thought to have drawn bri- 
 dle and refted, after lo long a journey ; 
 when a learned friend having perilled 
 this my Defer if t ion of Italy, delired much 
 to lee a Preface -to it of my fafhion, and 
 Concerning Travelling. I could refufe no- 
 thing to iiich a friend ; and have done it 
 here willingly, both for my own, and my 
 Countries lake. 
 
 For my own fake ; to pre-excufe feme 
 things in my book, which feme perchance 
 may diflike. 
 
 For feme, I fear, will quarrel with my 
 Englifh, and juftly, feeing three long Voy- 
 ages into Flanders, fix into France, five in- 
 to Italy , one into Germany and Holland , 
 have made me live half of my life-time in 
 foreign Countries, to the difturbance of 
 my own language : Yet if I bring not 
 home fine language, I bring home fine 
 things : and I have feen great Ladies, both 
 in France and England , buy fine things of 
 C hinmey-fveeper s and Pedlars , that lpake 
 but courfe Lombard language, and grofs 
 Scotch, 
 
 t Others perchance will find fault, that I 
 
 write 
 
write merrily Ibmetimes: And why not ? 
 Seeing I write to young men, and for 
 them ; and mirth is never lb lawful as in 
 Travelling, where it Shortens long miles, 
 and fweetens bad ulage ; that is, makes a 
 bad dinner go down, and a bad horfe go on. 
 
 Others will lay, That I fill my book 
 with too much Latin :■ But thele mult be 
 minded, that I am writing of the Latin 
 Country ; and that I am carving for 
 Scholars , who can digeft lolid bits, ha- 
 ving good ftomachs. 
 
 Others will lay, I jeer now and then : 
 And would any man have me go through 
 fo many divers Countries, and praile all I 
 lee ? Or in earneft, do not lome things 
 delerve to be jeered , when things cannot 
 be cured but by jeering , Jeering, laith 
 Teriullian , is a duty ; and I think the Cy- 
 nick Philolophers ftruck as great a blow 
 at Vice, as the Stoicks. 
 
 Others will lay, I change ftyle often, 
 and lometimes run Ifnoothly, and ■ Ibme- 
 times jokingly True, 1 travelled not al- 
 ways upon finooth ground, and pacing - 
 horles : Stvijferland and Savoy are much 
 different from Campania and Lombardy, and 
 it’s one thing to delcribe a L leaf ant Gar~ 
 den, another thing to delcribe a Venerable 
 Cathedral: and if in the one, and the other, 
 
Mr. iv. y- 
 cup. 
 
 Mr. l(jy- 
 
 ino?id. 
 
 we have feveral looks , much more ought 
 
 t!em W feVeral W ° rds in defcri ^ng 
 
 Others will fay, I affea a world of exo- 
 tick words not yet naturalized in EnHand • 
 No 1 affea them not; I cannot avoid 
 them ; for who can fpeak of Statues, but 
 he muft fpeak of Niches ; or of Churches , 
 Wrought or in-laid Tables , but he 
 
 muft fpeak o t Cupola's-, of bajfo relieved 
 
 tlZ e :°rt r If , any man lmder ftand 
 
 them not, it s his fault, not mine. 
 
 Others will lay, I h unt coo muc j, after 
 l eremomes, and Church-antiquities. No 
 
 fZkI7Z C ?- ; 4nd as a man cannot 
 ipeak of but he muft fpeak of 
 
 J*£ s ’ of of labours and victories : 
 
 l cann ot Ipeak of Rome the Chriftian, 
 
 f f if T' Y L t 1 befieve > 1 give my Reader 
 ull draught too of prophane^/W^ 
 
 " l(?J ‘^des, Shews, Dretfngs and pljli mes \ 
 Others, in fine, will lav thar T rln k 
 ? thing done already ; feeing two others 
 W wrnteo of this Subje# i„ S 
 Well; ft others have written upon this' 
 
 lytuH 7 I '£? I [ Tic y did beft 
 
 — ,of 
 
 writes 
 
writes little, and leaveth out much ; which 
 I impute to the ones writing out of o'd 
 Geographers, long after he had been there: 
 and to the others fhort flay in Italy, when 
 he was there. And if thele ingenious Gen- 
 tlemen have painted out Italy in bujlo on- 
 ly, and profile ; why may not I paint her 
 out at full face, and at her full length ? If 
 they, like ancient Statuaries, have repre- 
 lented Italy unto us like a naked Statue ; I 
 have let her out in all her belt Attire, and 
 "Jewels. And thus much for my own lake. 
 
 For my Country's fake : To read to my 
 Country-men two profitable Lejfons : The 
 firft, Of the Profit of Travelling : The le- 
 cond, Of Travelling with Profit . 
 
 i. For the firft, to wit, the Profit of r fi P r °fi* 
 Travelling ; it’s certain, that if this world " 
 be a great Book, as S. Aigufiine calls it, 
 none ftudy this great Book lo much as the 
 Traveller. They that never ftir from 
 home, read only one page of this Book ; 
 and like the dull fellow in Pliny, who could 
 never learn to count farther than five, they 
 dwell always upon one Lelfon. They are .y 
 like an acquaintance of mine, who had al- 
 ways a book indeed lying open upon a 
 Desk ; but it was oblerved that it lay al- 
 ways open at one and the lame place, and 
 by long cuftom, could lie open no where 
 
 die. 
 
elfe. He then that will know much out 
 of this great Book, the World, mult read 
 much in it : and as Vlyjjes is let forth by 
 Homer as the wifoft of all the Grecians ,be- 
 caufe he had travelled much, and had foen 
 multorum hominum mores & 'Vrbes , the 
 Cities and. Cujioms of many men t lb his Son 
 Telemachus is held for a very fhallow-wit- 
 ted man : and Homer gives the realbn, be- 
 caufo his Mother Penelope , inltead of lend- 
 ing him abroad to foe foreign Countries, 
 had always kept him at home,and lb made 
 him a meer Onocephalus , and a homeling 
 Mammacuth. So true is the laying of Se- 
 neca , that, Imperitum ejl animal homo , & 
 fine magna experientia rerum , fi circumfcri- 
 batur Natalis foli fuifne. 
 
 2. Travelling preforves my young No- 
 bleman from forfeiting of his Parents, and 
 weans him from the dangerous fondnels of 
 his Mother. It teacheth him wholelbme 
 hardfhip ; to lie in beds that are none of 
 Ills acquaintance ; to Ipeak to men he ne- 
 ver law before ; to travel in the morning 
 before day ; and in the evening after day ; 
 to endure any horfo and weather, as well 
 as any meat and drink. Whereas my 
 Country Gentleman that never travelled, 
 can foarce go to London without making 
 his Will , at leaft without wetting his 
 
 Hand- 
 
Hand-kerchief And what generous Mo- 
 ther will not (ay to her Son with that An- 
 cient ; Malo tthi male ejfe , quam molliter : <^. n 
 I had rather thou (houldjl he (ick, than [oft ? 
 Indeed the Coral-Tree , is neither hard nor 
 red, till taken out of the Sea, its native 
 home. And I have read, that many of the 
 old Romans put out their Children to be 
 nurfed abroad by Lacedamonian Nurfes , 
 till they were three years old • then they 
 put them to their Vncles , till feven, or 
 ten; then they fent them into Tofcany 
 to be initrucled in Religion ; and at lalt in- 
 to Greece to ftudy Philofophy. 
 
 3. Travelling takes my young Noble- 
 man four notches lower in his felf-con- 
 ceit and pride. For , whereas the Coun- 
 try Lord, that never law any Body but 
 his Fathers Tenants, and M. Parfon, and 
 never read any thing but John Stow, and 
 Speed, thinks the Lands-end to be the 
 Worlds-end ; and that all lolid greatnefs, 
 next unto a great Pajly, confifts in a great 
 Fire, and a great ejlate. Whereas my 
 travelling.young Lord, who hathleenlo 
 many greater Men, and Eftates than his 
 own, comes home far more modeft and ci- 
 vil to his inferiours, and far lefs puft up 
 with the empty conceit of his owngreafc- 
 nels. Indeed nothing cured Alcibiaaes his 
 
Sene ca. 
 
 / 
 
 pride lb much, as to lee in a Map (fhewed 
 him for the nonce by Socrates) that his 
 Houle and Lands, of which he was lb 
 proud, either appeared there not at all, or 
 only a little fpot or Dab ; and nemo in pu- 
 fillo magnus. 
 
 q. Travelling takes off, in fome lort,that 
 aboriginal cur fe, which was laid upon man- 
 kind even almoft at the beginning of the 
 World ; I mean, the confufion of Tongues : 
 which is fuch a curie indeed, that it makes 
 Men who are of one kind, and made to be 
 lociable, lb ftrangely to fly one another , 
 that as great S. Aufiin faith, A Man had 
 rather be with his Dog, than with a man 
 whole Language heunderftands not .Nay, 
 this diverlity of Language, makes the 
 wileft man pals for a fool in a ftrange 
 Country, and the belt man, for an excom- 
 municated Perlon, whole Converlation 
 all Men avoid. Now travelling takes of 
 this curfe , and this moral excommunication ; 
 by making us learn many languages, and 
 converle freely with people of otherCoun- 
 tries. 
 
 5. Travelling makes us acquainted with 
 a world of our kindred we never law be- 
 fore. For, feeing we are all come from 
 one man at firft, and conlequently all a-kin 
 to one another; it’s but a realbnable thing, 
 
that a Man fhould once at leaft in his life 
 time, make a Journey into foreign Coun- 
 tries, to fee his Relations , and vifit this 
 kindred : having always this faying of 
 young Joftph in his Mouth ; quxro fratres 
 meos . 
 
 6, Travelling enables a Man much for 
 his Countries Service. It makes the Mer- 
 chant rich, by fhewing him what abounds* 
 and wants in other Countries ; that fo 
 he may know what to import, what to 
 export. It makes the Mechanick come 
 loaden home with a world of experimental 
 knowledge for the improving of his 
 Trade. It makes the Field Officer , a 
 knowing Leader of an Army, by teaching 
 him where an Army in foreign Coun- 
 tries, can march; fecurely, pafs Rivers ea- 
 fily, incamp fafely, avoid Ambufeadoes 
 and narrow palfages difereetly and re- 
 treat orderly. It makes the Common Soul - 
 dier play the Spy well, by making him 
 fpeak the Enemies Language perfectly* 
 that fo mingling with them, he may find 
 their defigns, and crols their Plots. In 
 fine, it makes a Nobleman fit for the no- 
 bleft Employment, that is, to be Ambafja- 
 dor abroad for his Kins in foreign Coun- 
 tries, and carry about with him his Kings 
 a Ferfon , 
 
Per [on, which he reprelents, and his 
 Kings Word, which he engageth. 
 
 7. Travelling brings a Man a world of 
 particular profits. It contents the Mind 
 with the rare dilcourles we hear from 
 learned Men, as the Queen of Saba was 
 ravifhed at the W ifdom of Solomon. It 
 makes a Wifeman much the wiler by 
 making him lee the good and the bad in 
 others. Hence the Wileman laith Sa- 
 
 piens m ter ram aiiemgenarum gentium per- 
 tranjiet : bonaenim & mala in hominibus 
 tent obit. It makes a Man think himlelf 
 at home every where , and Imile at 
 unjuft exile : It makes him welcome 
 home again to his Neighbours, fought af- 
 ter by his Betters , and iiftened unto with 
 admiration by his Inferiours. It makes 
 him fit ftill in his old age with latisfadcion; 
 and travel over the World again in his 
 Chair and Bed by dilcourle and thoughts. 
 In fine, it’s an excellent Commentary upon 
 Hiftories ; and no Man underftands Livy 
 and Cafar , Guicciardin and Monluc like 
 him, who hath made exactly the Grand 
 Tour of France, .and the Giro of Italy. 
 
 8. Travelling makes my young No- 
 bleman return home again to his Coun- 
 try like a bleffing Sun. For as the Sun, 
 
who hath been travelling about the 
 World thefe five thoufand and odd years, 
 not only enlightens thole places which 
 he vifits , but alio enricheth them with 
 all forts of Fruits, and Metals : fb, the 
 Nobleman by long travelling, having en- 
 lightened his underftanding with fine 
 notions, comes home like a glorious Sun, 
 and doth not only fihine bright in the 
 Firmament of his Country, the Parlia- 
 ment-Houfe ; but alfb bleffeth his inferi- 
 ours with the powerful influence if his 
 knowing Spirit. 
 
 9. In fine, Examples (the beft Philofo- 
 phy) fhew Us, that the greatefl: Princes 
 Europe hath feen, thefe many years, to 
 wit , Charles the V. and the Kjng of 
 Sweden , Guftavus Adolphus , were both of 
 them great Travellers ; the firft had been 
 twice in England , as often in Africk, four 
 times in France , fix times in Spain , fea- 
 ven times in Italy , and nine in Germa- 
 ny : Hie fecond had travelled incognito 
 (as M. Watts writes of him) into Flolland y 
 France , Italy , and Germany in his youth ; 
 which made him fay afterwards to the 
 French Amhaffador Martfchal Breze, in a 
 kind of threatning way, that he knew 
 the way to Paris, as well as to Stockholm?. 
 Adde to this, that the wileft and greatefl: 
 a 2 r among 
 
The Tra- 
 velling 
 mi h prof. 
 
 among the ancient Philofophers, Plato, Py- 
 thagoras, Anaxagoras, Anacharfis , Apollo- 
 nius, Architas , and Pittacus, (which laft 
 left his fupream Command of Mytelen to 
 travel ) were all great travellers; and that 
 St. Hierom ( who being no Bifhop , and 
 conlequently not obliged to refidence) ha- 
 ving travelled into Prance., Italy, Greece, 
 and the Holy Land, purchaled to himfelf 
 fuch rare acquifitions of Learning, by his 
 Travels and Languages, that among all 
 the ancient Fathers and _ Doctors , the 
 Church in her Collett on his day, calls 
 him only, Doll or em maximum , the great - 
 ejl Doctor. And lo much for the profit 
 of Travelling. 
 
 Now for as much as concerns the fe- 
 t cond Leffion, to wit ,Tbe Travellingwith 
 Profit, divers things are to be taken notice 
 of ; lome by the Parents of thofe that 
 travel ; others by thofe themfelves 
 that travel ; of all which I will Ipeak 
 briefly. 
 
 As for the Parents their greateft care 
 ought to be of providing their Children 
 (1 1'peak to Men of high condition) a good 
 Governour, to travel with them, and have 
 a care of their Perfons, and breeding : that 
 is, play the part of the Archangel Raphael 
 to young Toby, and Lead them fafe a- 
 
broad, and bring them fafe home : Ego fa- 
 num due am dr re due am filium tuum. Tob. 
 5. v. 20. And here I could wifh indeed 
 that Parents could be as happy in their 
 choice , and find Men Angels for Gover- 
 nors to their Children, upon condition 
 they fhould requite them, as young Toby 
 offered to requite the Archangel his Go- 
 vernor, whom he took to be a Man. For 
 the education of Children is a thing of 
 that high concern to the Commonwealth, 
 that in this, Parents fhould fpare no coffc 
 whatfbever ; but rather imitate the old 
 Lacedemonians , who took more care of 
 their Touth } than of any thing elfe in their 
 Common-wealth. Infomuch that when 
 Antigonus asked of them fifty young 
 Youths for Hoftages, they ahfwered him, 
 that they had rather give him twice as 
 many made Men. Seeing then young 
 youths are the future hopes of Families, 
 and Commonwealths , their education 
 ought not to be committed but to Men 
 of great parts and excellent Breeding, 
 For I have always thought, that a young 
 Noblemans Train ought to belike his 
 Cloths, His Lacqueys and Footmen are 
 like his Galojhoos , which he leaves at the 
 doors^of thole he • Vifits • His Valets de 
 Chambre,' are like his night Gown, which 
 a 3 he 
 
he never ufeth but in his Chamber ; and 
 leaves them there when he goes in Vifits ; 
 His Gentleman Attendants, , are like his 
 feveral rich Suits, which he wears not all 
 at once, but now one, now another, and 
 fomerimes none at all of them; His Groom 
 is like his Riding-Cloak , and never ap- 
 pears near him but upon the Road: But 
 his Governour is like his Shirt , which is 
 always next unto his Skin and Perfon ; 
 and therefore as young Noblemen are cu- 
 rious to have their Shirts of the fineft Li- 
 nen ; fo fhould they have their Gover- 
 nors of the fineft thread , and the beft 
 Ipun Men that can be found. Hence the 
 Ancients as they were careful in honou- 
 ring the Memory of thole that had been 
 Governors to great Heroes , as of Chiron , 
 Governour of Hercules , Jafon , Paris , A- 
 chilles , and other brave Heroes; Mifcus 
 Governor of Vlyjfes ; Eudorus of P atro- 
 city \ Dares of He cl or ; Ep it ides of Julus ; 
 Ccnnidas of Thefeus ; all of them choice 
 men : So they were in choofing the rareft 
 men for that great employment , to 
 their childrens Governors; that is in their 
 Language, Cujlodes & comites juventutis 
 Principals & magnatum. For not every 
 hone (l and vert nous Man. (as forne Parents 4 
 think) i fit for this employment ; Thole 
 
 parts 
 
parts indeed would do well in a Steward, 
 and a Sollicitor ; but many things elfe, be- T, % C H' 
 fides thele, mult concur tc make up a good g <?- 
 good Governour. I would have him then v<?f7Wr * 
 to be not only a Vertuous Man, but a 
 Virtuofo too, not only an honeft Man, 
 but a Man of honour too .* not only a 
 Gentleman born, but a gentile Man alfo 
 by breeding : a Man not only comely of 
 Perfbn by nature ; but graceful alfo by 
 art in his Garbs and Behaviour ; a good 
 Scholar, but no meer Scholar : a Man that 
 hath travelled much in foreign Coun- 
 tries , but yet no fickle-headed Man ; a 
 Man of a flout Ipirit, but yet of a dilcreet 
 Tongue, and who knows rather to 
 wave quarrels prudently, than to main- 
 tain them ftoutly; a Man chearful in 
 converlation, yet fearful to offend others ; 
 a Man of that Prudence, as to teach his 
 Pupil rather to be wile than witty ; and 
 of that example of life, that his deeds 
 may make his Pu^il believe his words ; 
 in fine, I would have him to be an En- 
 glifomm , no Stranger. I Ipeak not this 
 out of an envy to Strangers, but out of 
 a love to my own Country-men. For I 
 have known divers Engiijh-Gentkmen 
 much wronged abroad by their Gover- 
 noitrs that were Strangers . Seme I have 
 
 a 4 known 
 
known that led their Pupil to Geneva? 
 W here they got fome French Language, 
 but loft ail their true Erglifh Allegiance 
 and refpe to Monarchy ; others i have 
 known, who, being married and having 
 their fettlements and in ter eft lying at 
 Saumur , kept young x 6entlernen there 
 all the time they were abroad ; and made 
 their Parents in England believe, that all 
 good breeding was in that poor Town, 
 where their Wives were breeding Chil- 
 dren. Others, I have known , who ha- 
 ying their Miftrefles in the Country, per- 
 fwaded their young Pupils? Men of great 
 Birth, that it was fine living in a Country 
 ffoule, that is fine carrying a Gun upon 
 their necks and walking a foot : Others 
 have been obferved to lell their Pupils to 
 Majlers ofexercifes^nd to have made them 
 believe that the worft Academies were 
 the beft,becaufe they were the beft to the 
 cunning Governour, who had ten pound a 
 Man for every one he could draw thither ; 
 Others I have known who would have 
 married their Pupils in France , without 
 their Parents knowledge ; and have facri- 
 fced their greatTruft,to their fordid Ava- 
 rice : Others I have known who have 
 locked their Pupils in a Chamber with a 
 wanton Woman,and taken the Key away 
 
 with 
 
/ 
 
 with them. Nay, this I can fay more, that 
 of all thofe Strangers that I have known 
 Governors to young Noblemen of Eng- 
 land (and I have known feven or eight) 
 I never knew one of them to be a Gen- 
 tleman born ; but for the moft part, they 
 were needy bold Men, whole chief parts 
 were, their own Language and fbme La- 
 tin ; and whofe chief aim was, to ferve 
 themfelves, not their Pupils. 
 
 But to return again to our Subject, the 
 Parent having found out fiich a Gover- 
 nor for his Son, as we have defcribed 
 here above he muff refign over unto him 
 his full Authority, and command his Son 
 to obey him : otherwife let the Governor 
 be the wifteft and the moft compleat 
 Man in the world, if his Pupil do not o- 
 bey him, and follow his Counfel , all will 
 go wrong. I have feen great difbrders 
 befal for want of this. Hence I have 
 often thought of great Clemens a L ex an - 
 drmus , who faith wifely, That our Savi- 
 or Chrifi is the only true Pedagogue or 
 Governor , becaufe he cannot only give 
 the beft Inftructions to young Men, but 
 alfo can give them grace to execute thofe 
 inftructions : whereas other Governors 
 ( Caffandra like) telling their Pupils many 
 excellent Truths , are not believed bv 
 
 them ; 
 
them ; nor can they force their incli- 
 nations to execute them, except the Pa- 
 rents commands come in to their affift- 
 ance ; and it is but realbnable, that as Go- 
 vernors are the Seconds of Parents, in the 
 breeding of their Children, lb Parents 
 fhould lecond Governors too, in making 
 their Children obey them. Afld lb much 
 for the Parents Care. 
 
 For the Sons Care , it muft be this. 
 Firft to take a veiw of England before he 
 enter into foreign Countries. This will 
 enure him to travel , to fee company , to 
 oblerve towns and rareties, and fharpen 
 his appetite for foreign Curioiities, I 
 would wifh him withal in travelling over 
 England , to fall in , as often as he can , 
 with the Judges in their Circuits , not 
 only to lee how his Country is governed 
 in point of judicature ; but allb to lee the 
 gentry of leveral Countries , who flock 
 to great Towns in the Ajfize week. It 
 would be allb profitable to him , to call: 
 to be at all the cheif Horf e-races , where 
 he will eafily lee allb the gentry of the le- 
 veral counties in a compendious View.Ha- 
 ving thus feen his own Country in a Sum- 
 mers Ipace, and having got his Majefties 
 Licence to travel beyond the Seas ( in 
 which Licence I could wifh this claule 
 were inlerted , That all young gentlemen 
 
Ihould at their return, prelent themlelves 
 to his Majejly , to give him an Account 
 of their Travels and obfervations ) I 
 would have him depart England about the 
 beginning of OBober. 
 
 2. At his going out of England , let 
 him take his aim right ; that is, let him 
 aim altogether at his Profit , and not at 
 his Pleajures only. I have known many 
 Englijh-men who for want of right aim- 
 ing, have miffed the white of Breeding, 
 whole Heavens Breadth. For fbme in 
 travelling, aim at nothing but to get 
 loofe from their Parents, or S choolmajlers , 
 and to have the fingering of a pretty Al- 
 lowance ; and thele Men,when they come 
 into France , care for leeing no Court , 
 but the Tennis-Courf, delight in leeing 
 no Balls but Tennis-Balls ; and forfake 
 any Company, to tofs whole days toge- 
 ther with a tattered Marker in the Tripot. 
 
 Others defire to go into Italy , only be- 
 caule they hear there are fine Courti fanes 
 in V » nice ; and as the Queen of the A- 
 mazons, in Juflin, went thirteen days 
 Journey out of her Country, only to have 
 a nights Lodging with Alexander the 
 Great-, lo thele Men travel a whole montli 
 together to Venice , for a nights Lodging 
 With an impudent Woman. And thus 
 
by a falfe aiming at breeding abroad, they 
 return with thofe Difeafes which hinder 
 them from breeding at home. 
 
 Others travel abroad, as our Ship-Boys 
 do into the Indies : for whiles thefe boys 
 might bring home Jewels, Pearls and 
 many other things of value, they bring 
 home nothing but Firecanes, Parots, and 
 Monkeys ; fo our young Travellers, whiles 
 they might bring home many rich obfer- 
 vations, for the governing themfelves, 
 and others, bring home nothing but Fire- 
 canes, that is a hotfpur humor, that takes 
 Fire at every word, and talk of nothing 
 but Duels , Seconds , and Efclairciffements : 
 or elfe Parots, that is come loaden home 
 with Ribans and Feathers of all Colours 
 like Parots, and with a few borrowed 
 Complements in their Mouths, which 
 make them talk like Parots , or elfe Mon- 
 keys, that is fome affected Cringes , Shrugs , 
 and foch like Apifh Behaviour. 
 
 At his embarking let him have a fpe- 
 cial care not to carry Himfelf abroad with 
 Himfelf in travelling : Many Men, faith 
 Seneca , return home no better than they 
 went out , becaufc they take themlelves 
 along with themfelves in Travelling: and 
 as a Man in a Fever , finds himfelf no 
 better than he was, by changing his Bed : 
 
 becaufo 
 
becaufe he carries his 'Fever with him 
 wherefbever he lies : fb many young Men 
 return home tired and dirtied , but not 
 better and wifer , becaufe they carried a- 
 broad their bad Cuftoms and Manners 
 with them. I would then that my young 
 Traveller Ihould leave behind him all wil- 
 fulnefs and ftubbornefs ; all tendernefs, 
 and feeking his eafe too much ; all effemi- 
 natenefs and delicatenefs ; all Boyifh 
 T 'ricks with hands or Mouth, and mock- 
 ing of others ; all delighting in being the 
 belt Man in the Company ; all familiari- 
 ty with Servants, and mean Men ; all 
 Taverns, and intemperancy of eating and 
 drinking ; having that faying of Seneca, 
 often in his mouth and mind ; Major fum 
 & ad majora natus ? cyuam ut mancipium 
 fim corporis met : I am too great a Man y 
 and born to too great things , for to be- 
 come the Jlave of my Body. In fine, I 
 would have him imitate that young Gen- 
 tleman of whom S. Ambrofe fpeaks ; who 
 returning home from foreign Travels, 
 and meeting with his old Mijlrefs , a 
 Wanton Woman, feemed not to know 
 her; whereat fhe wondring, told him 
 that fhe was fuch an one ; it may 
 be fb , laid he, but I am no more /. A 
 rare Apothegm; which I would wifh 
 my young Traveller to take for his Mot- 
 to, 
 
to, as well as this young Man for his Ex- 
 ample. 
 
 4. Being thus got out of England, its 
 a great queftion into what Country he 
 fhould firft go , to make his aboad. The 
 common courfe is, to go firft into France , 
 and then into Italy, and lo home by Ger- 
 many ,Holland and Flanders, as I did once t 
 but my opinion is, that it’s better for a 
 Young Man to go firft into Italy, and re- 
 turning by Germany, Holland and Flanders, 
 come into France, to give himfelf there 
 the laft hand in breeding. And my rea- 
 fon is this ; For feeing the intention of 
 Travelling, is to make a Man, a wife 
 Man, not a finical Man, its better to fea- 
 fon his mind betimes with a ftaid wife 
 Breeding, than to fill it up to the brim at 
 firft, with a phantaftical giddy Breeding, 
 which, having once gotten pofleflion of 
 the mind, bolts the door on the infide, 
 locks out all ftaidnefs ; and makes my 
 young man delight in nothing but Va- 
 nity, Cloths , Dancing , Liveries, Balls, 
 and fuch meer outfides : I would there- 
 fore have my young Noblemans Gover- 
 nor to carry him immediatel) into Italy 
 at fifteen or fixteen , and their feafbn 
 his mind with the gravity , and wife 
 maximes of that Nation, which hath civi- 
 
lized the whole World, and taught Man 
 Man-hood. Having Ipent two or three 
 years in Italy in learning the Language, 
 viewing the leveral Courts, 0: udying their 
 Maximes, imitating their Gentile Convex 
 fation , and following the fweet Exercifes 
 of Mufick, Painting , Architecture, and 
 Mathematicks , he will at his return, 
 know what true ule to make of France „ 
 
 And having Ipent three years more there, 
 in Learning to Fence, Dance, Ride, Vault, , 
 Handle his Pike, Musket, Colours , &c. The 
 Map,Hiftory, and Books of Policy ; he 
 will be leadytocome home at twenty 
 or one and twenty, a Man moll compleat 
 both in Body and Mind, and fit to fill the 
 place of his Calling. 
 
 5. I lay, Make true ufe o/’France. For t0 
 I would not have my young Traveller harm in 
 imitate all things he fees done in France 
 or other Foreign Countries, I would 
 have him learn of the French a handlome 
 confidence, but not an impudent boldnels. 
 
 He mull learn of them to come into a 
 Room with a Bonne mine-, but not to rulh 
 into a Mans Chamber, as they do, with- 
 outlb much as knocking at the Door. He 
 mud learn of them to dance well, to get 
 a good Grace in walking and laluting, 
 as they do ; but he mull not dance as 
 
 he 
 
he walks, as many of them do. He muft 
 learn of the French, to become any Clothes 
 well ; but he muft not follow them 'in 
 all their Phantaftical and fanfaron clo- 
 things. He muft learn to fence well, as 
 they do ; but I would have his Sword 
 flick falter in the fcabbard than theirs do. 
 In fine, I would have him open, airy, and 
 gallant as they are; but not affecting to 
 be the Gallants of all Ladies , as they do. 
 wha in i- So in Italy, I would have him learn to 
 taiy, ami m ake a fine Houfe . but I would not have 
 x at not. j earn 0 f t [ ie Italians to keep a good 
 
 Houfe. He may learn of them to be Sober 
 and Wife-, but I would not have him 
 learn of them to bt jealous and diftruflful. 
 I would have him learn of the Italians , 
 to receive thole that vifit him, with great 
 Civility and Refpecl ; but I would not 
 have him Hand upon all their little Forms 
 and incommodious Punctilio's. I would 
 have him to be free of his Hat, as they 
 are, but I would have the Heart, to 
 go to the Ha t, as well as the Hand. 
 what in In Germany, I would have him learn to 
 
 G ™y offer a man a cup of wine at his coming 
 Z: M in; but I would not have him pfefs lo 
 much wine upon him , as he fbali not be 
 able to go out again , as they often do. I 
 would have him learn of them to go freely 
 
 to 
 
to War for the defence of his Country : 
 but I would not have him learn the 
 cuftom of tliofe vendible fouls there, who 
 carry their lives to market , and forve 
 any Prince for money .1 like well their ta- 
 king hands with you, when you firft enter 
 into their houfes;but I like not their quar- 
 relling with you for not pledging a health 
 of a yard long,which would ruin yours. I 
 like very much their fingular modeflry and 
 chaftity, which allows not baftards to be 
 freemen of the moft ordinary trades ; but 
 I like not their endlefs drinking in feafts, 
 which is able to make them freemen of 
 all vices. * 
 
 In Holland alfo I would have him learn what in 
 to keep his houfe and hearth neat , but I 
 would not have him adore his houfe, and nQU 
 ftand in fiich awe of his hearth % as not to 
 dare to make a fire in it, as they do. I 
 would have him learn of them a fpare di- 
 et ; but I would not have him drink fo 
 much, as would keep him both in good di- 
 et and cloths,as they do. I would have 
 him learn of them their great indu- 
 ftry and oeconomy ; but not their 
 rude exacting upon Noblemen Strangers 
 in theirInns,for their Qualities fake only, 
 as they do. I would have him learn of 
 them a fingular love to his Country ; but 
 
lie muft take heed of th ir clownifh ha- 
 tred of Nobility. Thus in all Countries I 
 would have my young Traveller do, as 
 men do at a great Feaft, where there is no 
 fear of ftarving; that is, not eat greedily 
 of all that’s before him, but fall to the 
 belt Meats, and leave the worft for the 
 Waiters. 
 
 6. That he may follow the forefaid 
 Rule the better and pick out of every 
 Country what’s the beft in it, let his Ga- 
 ver fiour lead him betimes into the beft 
 Company, for there the beft Lejjons are 
 to be leariled. Now by the word 
 bejl, Ido not mean the greateft Men in 
 Birth, but in parts.For the world is not lo 
 happy ,as that the greateftMen are always 
 the beft : but by the word befi, I mean 
 thole that are the wileft, the beft bred , 
 the beft principled, the beft behaved, and 
 the moft cryed up by civil Perlons : for 
 of fuch Men much is to be learned : Their 
 life is a perpetual Le£ture ; their words 
 lo many Oracles; their dilcourles lo many 
 "wife Maxims .• and though young Men 
 jpe not able to bring their dilh with them 
 |nd club wit equally with thele Men, yet 
 it’s a great matter to fit ftill in their com- 
 pany , and be a refpecbful Catechumen 
 to them. For if it be true which Quin- 
 
 1 1 Hi. in 
 
tillim faith of thole that love Cicero, C/- 
 ceronem amajfe , profeciffe ejl , it’s alfo moft 
 certain, that a Man that loves good Com- 
 pany, mull be good himfelf in time. 
 
 7. And that he may be able to appear 
 in good Company without blufhing, his 
 Governotir muft get him, as foon as lie can, 
 to fpeak thzLanguagt of the place in hand- 
 fome terms,and with a good accent.Next 
 he mull have a care that he be well adju- 
 fled and let out in appareb For if ancientr 
 ly Jewels were called the Vjhers of Ladi- 
 es, becaufe all Doors flew open to them 
 that prefented themlelves fb richly ador- 
 ned : fb now a-days good clothes may be 
 called Mens Vjhers , feeing they make 
 way for them into all Companies. He 
 mull have a care that he know his Con- 
 gies perfectly , and have a free Garb or 
 Carriage;! Cavalier way of entering into 
 a Room ; a grateful managing of his 
 mouth and finiles; a chironomy or decent 
 acting with his hands, which may humor 
 his words gravely and freely, yet not af- 
 fectedly or mimically: in fine, a liberty or 
 freedom in all his aftions, which the 
 French call liberte du corps ;and it mull ap- 
 pear to be a la negligence ,and yet muft be 
 perfectly ftudied a-fore-hand. And though 
 thefie tilings be but the Elements and AL 
 
fhabet of breeding, yet without them he 
 can never fpell Gentleman rightly, though 
 his infide be never fo good. Indeed it’s 
 long ago, that great Men dwell no more 
 in thatched Houles. 
 
 8. But it is not enough to get him into 
 Language and Garbs , if he get him not 
 into Cqach and Liveries , without which 
 he can never appear at Court , or in good 
 Company, efpeciaily in Rome and Paris, 
 the two cheif Towns of long abode ~a- 
 bread.For let a man be of aRace asancient 
 as the Autocthenes of Athens, who laid they 
 Plutarch, were as ancient as the Earth; and let him 
 quarter his coat of Arms with the three 
 Lyons of England, and the three Flower- 
 de-lys of France, as I know a Gentleman of 
 Little Brit any doth, (by the grantancient- 
 ly of both thofeKings^ yet I dare boldly 
 lay this, that in Paris no colours blazon 
 a Mans nobility behind his Coach fo much 
 as three Lacqueys and a Page, in a hand- 
 lome Livery. In other Towns of France , 
 where young Gentlemen ule to live at 
 fir ft, till they' get the language , a couple 
 of laddie horfes would be very ufcfuf both 
 to take the air cn,as aifb to vifit the Gen- 
 try in the Country at their Summer Hou- 
 fes,whereaMan will find great Civilities 
 and Divertifements. Befides, riding out 
 
 V ' \ ' '■ fo 
 
To in the'frefh evenings of Summer, will 
 not only wean my young Gentleman from 
 little Company, and the crowd of his 
 Countrymen, who will be then preffing 
 upon him; but will alio afford his Gover- 
 nor many fine Iblitary occafions of plying 
 him alone with good Counfels and In- 
 ftructions. 
 
 9. And feeing I have touched fomething 
 before of his Servants and Lacqueys,I will 
 add this, That feeing it is none of the 
 Ieaft bleffings of a young Gentleman 
 to have good Servants about him, it be- 
 longs to his G over /tour, not only to cho'ofe 
 him good ones, but alfo to have power 
 to turn away bad ones. Many Men carry 
 over with them Englijh Servants, becaufe 
 they were their School-fellows, or their 
 Tenants Sons ; and thefe are little ufe ul 
 for a long time, and even then when a 
 Man hath moll need of Servants. Befides, 
 they are often too familiar with their ma- 
 ilers, their old Play-fellows ; and as often 
 troublefome to their Governors, by taking 
 their young Mafters part againft them; & 
 by ravelling out at night, as they get their 
 Mafters to Bed, all that the prudent Go- 
 vernor hath been working in the day 
 time. Others carry over Frenchmen 
 with them;. but thefe often, by reafbn of 
 
 their 
 
their prerogative of Language, which 
 their Mafters want at firft, get fuch an a- 
 Icendent over them, that they come often- 
 times to be bold and fawcy with them. 
 Lor my part, I would have his Governour 
 to take him new Servants in every place 
 he comes to flay ; and thole lightly, ra- 
 ther than too fprightly Youths: Dull peo- 
 ple are made to tugg at the Oar of Obedi- 
 ence faith JrifiotTe, whiles witty People 
 are fitter to fit at the Helm of Command. 
 
 xo. But I am to blame to give advice 
 to Governour s, whom I fuppofe to be wi- 
 fer Men than my felf ; and therefore will 
 end here , by wilhing them a good jour- 
 ney, and fafe return: To the effe fling 
 of both which, I found no bet ter Secret, 
 than that in my laft journey , which was to 
 be mounted upon our own Horfes(five of 
 us together) and to fpare for no cofi: •• for 
 by this means we went at our own rates, 
 and eat to our own minds : lb true is the 
 Italian Proverb, Picole giornatee grandt 
 fpeje, ti conducono fano al tuo paefe. 
 
 In fine, I would have my young tra- 
 veller make the fame prayer to God , as 
 ApoHomusT hy annus made to the Sun at his 
 going out to travel, that is, That he would 
 be fb favorable to him as to lb ew him all 
 the bra veil: and bell: Men in theAVorld. 
 
 A 
 
TABLE 
 
 Of the NAMES 
 OF THE 
 
 CHIEF TOWNS 
 
 Contained in this firft Part. 
 
 . A. 
 
 
 D, 
 
 
 A Iguebelle. 
 JL\.Aiguebeliet 
 
 46 
 
 Devedra. 
 
 4? 
 
 
 Domodofcela. 
 
 4$ 
 
 Mt. 
 
 44 
 
 f. 
 
 
 Aix. 
 
 28 
 
 Florence. 
 
 lot 
 
 Alexandria . 
 
 68 
 
 Fontain-belleau . 
 
 18 
 
 Apennins Mts. 
 
 100 
 
 Fort -Urban. 
 
 9 * 
 
 Aquapendente . 
 
 
 G. 
 
 Avignon . 
 
 
 Geneva. 
 
 50 
 
 B. 
 
 
 Genoa. 
 
 ff 
 
 S. Baume. 
 
 28 
 
 I. 
 
 Beauvoyjin. 
 
 44 
 
 S. John Mori an. 
 
 46 
 
 Berlin Mt. 
 
 38 
 
 tjere Riu. 
 
 4 ? 
 
 Bologna. 
 
 92 
 
 L. 
 
 Boljena. 
 
 W 
 
 Lake of Geneva. 
 
 3* 
 
 Briare . 
 
 2% 
 
 Lake ofBolfena. 
 
 Bnga . 
 
 4 1 
 
 Lakes of WaJUnfade 
 
 C. 
 
 
 and Ife. 
 
 
 Caprarola, 
 
 iy» 
 
 Lake Major. 
 
 4? 
 
 Cajjale. 
 
 6? 
 
 Lafneburg. 
 
 
 Caflelfranco. 
 
 91 
 
 Laufanna. 
 
 13 
 
 Chambery . 
 
 44 
 
 Ugorne. 
 
 149 
 
 Cw Mt, 
 
 46 
 
 Lodi. 
 
 ?7 
 
 Com. 
 
 37 
 
 Lucca* 
 
 Lyons 
 
Lyons. 
 
 M. 
 
 Marjeilles. 
 Marguzzi. 
 Marignano . 
 
 S. Maurice. 
 
 S. Maximin. 
 Milan . 
 Modena. 
 Monferrat. 
 Montargis. 
 Montefiafcone . 
 Monteroja. 
 Montmelian. 
 Murat . 
 
 N. 
 
 Never* 
 Novalefe . 
 
 Novi. 
 
 P. 
 
 Parma. 
 
 Pavia. 
 
 Piacenza. 
 
 Piedmont. 
 
 Pifa. 
 
 Pifloia. 
 
 Po Riv. 
 Poggibonzi. 
 
 Pont S. Efprit. 
 Tongues. 
 
 R . 
 
 ■ Rodkof.no. 
 
 22 
 
 28 
 
 43 
 
 8? 
 
 39 
 
 29 
 
 74 
 
 90 
 
 67 
 21 
 
 i*6 
 
 J S9 
 4 S’ 
 34 
 
 21 
 
 44 
 
 68 
 
 88 
 
 69 
 
 87 
 
 47 
 
 146 
 
 *4? 
 
 48 
 
 *** 
 
 21 
 
 1*4 
 
 Regio. 
 
 Riviera di Genoa . 
 Roanne . 
 
 S. 
 
 Sampion M. 
 Savona . 
 
 Siena. 
 
 Sion.* 
 
 Soleur. 
 
 Splug Mt. 
 
 Sufa. 
 
 SvJijJerland. 
 
 T. 
 
 Terrara. 
 
 Ticinum . 
 
 Tortona . 
 
 Tournon. 
 
 Turin. 
 
 V. 
 
 Valence. 
 
 Valt aline. 
 
 Vale fans. 
 
 Veij. 
 
 Vienne. 
 
 Viterbo. 
 
 Savoy , 
 Seflo . 
 
 TJJbne. 
 
 Zttric. 
 
 T. 
 
 z: 
 
 90 
 
 H 
 
 21 
 
 4 1 
 
 f 3 
 
 48 
 
 43 
 
 4i 
 
 34 
 
 38 
 
 47 
 34 
 
 21 
 
 ^9 
 
 69 
 
 48 
 
 38 
 
 39 
 
 160 
 
 2 ? 
 
 J f7 
 
 r 7 
 
 36 
 
 THE 
 
THE 
 
 VOYAGE 
 
 IT AL Y 
 
 * 
 
 PART. I. 
 
 B Efore I come to a particular deteription 
 of Italy, as I found it in my Five fe- 
 veral voyages through it, I think it 
 not amifs to fpeak fomething in Gene- 
 ral of the Country it tel£ its Inhabitants, their 
 Humours, Manners , Cuftoms, Riches, and 
 Religion. 
 
 For the Country it (elf, it teemed to me to be 
 Nature's Darling, and the Eldefi Sifier of all other 
 Countries ; carrying away from them all the 
 greateft blefTingsand favours, and receiving filch 
 gracious looks from the Sun and Heaven , that 
 if there be any fault in Italy , it is, that her Mo- 
 ther Nature hath cockered her too much, even 
 to make her become Wanton: Witnefs luxu- 
 B riant 
 
 The Ferti- 
 lity of Ita- 
 ly* 
 
2 
 
 dosage Gf ITALY. Parti. 
 
 riant Lombardy and Campania, antonomaftically 
 Fcelix, which Floras, Trogus^, and Livy, think 
 to be the belt parts of the World, where Ceres 
 and Bacchus are at a perpetual ftrife, whether of 
 them fhall court Man the moll: ; (he by filling 
 his Earns with Corn , he by making his Cellars 
 fwimwith Wine: Whilft the other parts of 
 Italy are fweating out whole Forefts of Olive- 
 Trees , whole Woods of Limons, and Oranges, 
 whole Fields of Rice, Turky Wheat, and Musk - 
 millions ; and where thole Bare Hills, which 
 (eem to be (haven by the Sun, and curfed Na- 
 ture for their Barrennels, are oftentimes great 
 with child of precious Marbles, the Ornaments 
 of Churches and Pa aces, and the Revenues of 
 Princes : witnels the Prince of Maffa, whole belt 
 Revenues are his Marble Quarries: Nature 
 here thinking it a far more noble thing to feed 
 Princes , than to feed Iheep. It abounds alio in 
 Silks and Silk-worms ;• out of which they draw a 
 notable profit, and for the feeding of them they 
 keep a worldof Mulberry Trees, whofe leaves are 
 the food of thole little worms, whole excrement 
 is our pride;thus, Adam like, we are clad in leaves 
 again, but leaves once removed. It’s rich alfo in 
 Pafiurage and Cattle, pecially \nLombardy , where 
 I haveleen Cheeles of anexcellive greatnefs, and 
 of a Parmelan goodnefs. The lurface alfo of the 
 Earth is covered with many curious “Simples 
 and wholelome Herbs : Hence fo many rare 
 Ejjences, Cordials, Perfumes, Sweet Water, and 
 other Odoriferous Deft illations , lo common here, 
 that Ordinary Barbers and Laundrefles Will 
 Iprinkle them in your Face, and perfume your 
 
 Linen 
 
3 
 
 Part I. clojage Of ITALY. 
 
 Linen with theni over and above your bar- 
 gain. Hence none of the meaneit things to be 
 feen in Italy , are the Fcndaries or Stilling Houles 
 of the Great Dale of Florence , the S pciary or 
 Apothecaries Shops of the Dominicans of S. 
 
 Marco , and of the Augujlms of S. Sprit o in 
 Florence ; of the Roman College , and of the 
 Mmlmes of Frinita de Monte in Rome : where 
 even death it (elf would find a cure in nature, if it 
 were not a curie from the Author of Nature. In 
 fine, it excels in all kind of provifions either for 
 dyet or (port ; and I have feen in Rome whole 
 cartloads of Wild Boars and V enilbn brought in 
 at once to be fold in the Market * and above 
 threefcore Hares in Florence brought in, in one 
 day,by the two Companies of Hunters, the Fla- 
 cevoll and Fiatelli, on a general Hunting day. 
 
 Yet after all this, Ibme cry out again ft Italy, An ob'yfci* 
 for being too hot ; and paint us out its Air as 
 an unwholefome Peftilential Air ; its Sun, as Ital y* 
 an angry Comet, whofe beams are all pointed 
 with Plagues and Fevers ; and the Country it 
 felf, as a place where ftarving is the only way 
 to live in health ; where Men eat by Method 
 and Art ; where you mult carry your body 
 fteadily, or eUefpill your life ; and where there 
 are lb many Provincial Sickneffcs and Dileales; 
 as the Catarrhs of Genoa , the Gout of Milan , 
 the Haemorrhoids of Venice, the Falling Sicknefs 
 of Florence, the Fevers of Rome, and the Goljlre 
 of Piedmont. 
 
 For my part, when I am told, that there Mfiret* 
 were in Pliny s time, fourteen millions ofMen in 
 B 2 Italy : 
 
4 SJopflgc Of ITALY. Parti. 
 
 Baiter Italy: when J read that there are now above three 
 BcnifmuA thoufand Cities in Italy , and moft of them Cities 
 "dicri i 13” Gasri* ; w hen I meet with National Di- 
 
 c. 13. 3 feafes in every other Country, as the Kings-E - 
 
 W in Spain , the Pox in France , the Consump- 
 tion in Portugal , the Colick in England , the Dy- 
 jentery in Gafcony , the Head-ach in Toloufe, &c. 
 when I refledt how this Sun hath bleffed Lombar- 
 dy and made Campania Happy ; when I call to 
 mind , that it hath filled the Cellars of Italy 
 with above Thirty feveral forts of Wines : 
 when I remember what Health it hath poured 
 into feveral herbs here, what admirable fruits it 
 furnifheththe Markets withal, what ornaments 
 it affords to Gods Houfes , over-crufting al- 
 Soltfho- moft all the chief Churches of Italy with 
 mo gene- exquifite marbles : when I confider in fine, how 
 rdnt this Sun hath helpt t 9 make fo many brave Sol- 
 Vlutarclm t * iers an ^ Scholars, I dare not {peak ill of the Sun 
 inGraccho. or dir of Italy , leaft Balzac check me , as 
 Gracchus did him who (poke ill of his Mother, 
 in with a Eu Matri me a male diets, quee Tiberium 
 i.voi. Liter. Gracchum genuitd Darefi thou [peak ill of that 
 Sun which helpt to make Cafar l 
 
 The Inhabit Yes, yes, it's this great blefling of God, warm 
 ta?ns and Sun , which hath (o throughly baked the Italian 
 their wits. Wits, that while (according to the obfervation 
 of Charles the V.) the French appear not wife, but 
 are wife;the Spaniards appear wife, but are not 
 wife; the Dutch neither appear wife, nor are 
 wife ; the Italians only both appear wife, and 
 are wife, Hence the Italians anciently afforded 
 us thofe prodigies of Wit and learning , and 
 
Part I. C&e cUopage of ITALY. 5 
 
 fct us thofe fair Copies in Liberal Arts and Sci- 
 ences, which all men follow, but none attain 
 unto (o much, as thole that write the Italian 
 band ; that is, the Modern Italians themfelves. 
 
 For if the Italians anciently had their Virgil , poets An- 
 their Ovid , their Horace , their Perfius, and Pro- tient and 
 pertius in Poetry , the Modern Italians (pur Moitrn in 
 clofe up to them , and have their TaJJ'o , their lta y ' 
 Petrarch, their Sannazarius , their Marino and 
 G uarini. 
 
 If the old Italians had their Saluft , Livy Tad Jrlijhrim- 
 tm , and Valerias Maximus in Hi ft or y, the Mo- 
 dern Italians have their Guicciardine , Bentivoglio , 
 
 Davila , Strada , and Baptifta Fregofus , furna- 
 med the (econd Valerius Maximus . 
 
 If the Antient Italians had their pompous Ora- oratm. 
 tors , their Cicero, Hortenjius , Porcius , Latro , Prodigies 
 nius Gallio , Aulius, Fufcus, &c. The Modern °t L: un- 
 it alians have their Panigarola, Manzini, Varchi 
 and Loredano. 
 
 If the Antient Italians had their Vaft know- 
 ing , the Modern Italians have their om- 
 nifcious Baronins , who read almolt all that o- 
 ther men had written , and wrote more almoit 
 than other men can read. 
 
 If the antient Italians had their Divines, wri- jp— 
 ting of the Number and Nature of their Gods , to 
 wit, Varro and Tally, the Modern Italians ha ve 
 their Divines too, their inimitable S. Thomas 
 B 3 of 
 
6 
 
 Philofc - 
 phers. 
 
 Architects. 
 
 Sculptors. 
 
 Painters. 
 
 Anitent £ 5 * 
 
 modern 
 
 Captains. 
 
 Cije CItpage of ITALY. Parti. 
 
 of Aquin, and his learned (econd Cardinal Ca- 
 
 jetan. 
 
 If the anti ent Italians had their Philofbphers, 
 their Pliny , their Cato , their Seneca , eH. the Mo« 
 dern Italians have their Ficinus , their Cardan 
 and their P/W Mirandula. 
 
 If ihe antient Italians had their rare Archi* 
 
 ' teds, Statuaries, Painters, the Modern Italians 
 hcLVcthcir Brmellefchi, Palladio, Fontana , and Cro- 
 naco , in Architedure their Bandinelli , Donatello , 
 Oliver io , and Bernini in Sculpture ; their P^- 
 phael, Michael Angelo , Titian and Sarto in Paint - . 
 ing. 
 
 If in fine, tneantient Italians had their brave 
 Captains , their Scipio , Duilius , Marius, and O- 
 
 , the Modern Italians have their Sapi# tpo, 
 to wit, their Alexander Farnefe , whole true 
 adions make Romances blufh, having done that 
 really, which Fables can fcarce feign in Galan- 
 try ; their Duilius too, to wit, their Andrea Do - 
 ritf, the Neptune of the Ligurian Seas, who alone 
 taught his Country not to ferve ; their Marius 
 alio to wit, their bra ve Caftruccio, who from a 
 Common Souldier mounted up by deferts to the 
 higheft Military Commands in the Emperors 
 Army , and fb fritched his fortune as he went 
 along to Honours, that it never ravelled out 
 again, or failed him : In fine, their Ccefar too, 
 to wit, the Marcfuifs Spinola or rather the A- 
 c hides of Italy, who took that Troy of Ofiend 
 after three years Siege, This Siege was far more 
 famous than that of Troy, becaufe far truer. 
 For in the Siege oITroy it was Poetry only that 
 made the War, that framed and filled the Wood- 
 en 
 
Part L Cfj£ GIop<10C Of ITALY. 7 
 
 en Horfe with Worthies ; that dragged Heffor Se eVe rfte- 
 round about the Walls; it was Pen and Ink 
 that killed Co many men fomno vineejue fepultos ; 
 and Troy was eafily burnt, becaufe it was built oC j nt€ ud 
 Poets Paper. But at Oft end all was real, and all Europe gence. 
 almoft, who had their forces, or eyes there were 
 witneffes of it ; and all this done by Spinola an I- 
 tali an. 
 
 As for the Italian humor , it is a middling Thelttliin 
 humor , between too much gywity oith eSpam- mmr - 
 ard , and too great levity of the French. Their 
 gravity is not without feme fire, nor their levity 
 without tome flegm. They are apifh enough 
 inCarneval time, and upon their Stages, as long 
 as die Vizard is on; but that once off, they are 
 too wife. to play the Fools in their own Names, 
 and owne it with their own Faces. 'They have 
 ftrong fancies, and yet (olid Judgements, A hap- 
 py temper, which makes them great Preachers , 
 Politicians , and Ina- enters ; but withal they are a 
 little too melancholy and jealous : They are great- 
 Lovers of their Brethren and near Kindred, as 
 the Firff Friends they are acquainted withal 
 by Nature; and if any of them lie in pais and 
 fair advancement, all the reft of his Relations 
 will lend him their Purfes, as well as their 
 Shoulders, to help him up, though he be but 
 their younger Brother. They are fparing in 
 Diet , both for to live in health, and to live 
 handfcmly : making their Bellies contribute to 
 the maintenance of their Backs, and their Kit- 
 chen help to the keeping of their Stable. They 
 are ambitious (till of Honors , retnembri.ig 
 they are the Succcffors of the Mahers of the 
 B 4 World 
 
8 mt Oopageof ITylLY. Parti. 
 
 World, the Old Romans ; and to put file World 
 frill in mind of it, they take to themfelves the 
 glorious Names of Camillo , Sc ip zone , Julio , 
 Mario , Pompeo , cffc. They are as fenfiblc 
 alio of their Honour, as defirous of Honours; 
 and this makes them ftrickt to their Wives, e- 
 ven to jealoufie, knowing that for one Corneli- 
 us Tacitus, there have been ten Tublii Cornelii ; 
 a d that Lucius Cornificius is the moft affront- 
 ing Man. They are hard to be pleated, when 
 they have been once red hot with offence ; 
 but they will not meet revenge in the face, 
 and field ; and they will rather hire it, than take 
 it. In fine, they affeft very much compounded 
 names, as Ficcolomini , Capilupo , Bentivoglio , 
 Malefpina , Boncontpagno , Mahjez»z>i , Riccobono , 
 Malat-efiaflomodet, and fuch like married Names. 
 
 Their min* £ s for their Manners , they are moft com- 
 'Tec Man- men d' a kle. They have taught them in their 
 foncr cZ Books, they pra&ife them in their aftions , 
 Sec- and they have fpred them abroad over all 
 phan° Europe, which owes its Civility unto the Italians 
 
 TluTxr aswe ~* * lts Religion, They never affront 
 CafiigiL Grangers in what Habit fbever they appear ; 
 cne. and if the ftrangenels of the Habit draw the I- 
 talians eye to it, yet he will never draw in his 
 mouthto laugh at it. As for their Apparel or 
 Drefs, it’s commonly Black and Modelt. They 
 value no bravery but that of Coach and Horfes 
 and Staffers ; and they facrificea world of little 
 fatisfa&ions to that main one of being able to 
 keep a Coach. Their Foints de Venice , Rtbbans 
 and Gold Lace , are all turned into Horfes and 
 
 Liveries ; 
 
Part !. Cfje (Homage of ITALY. 9 
 
 Li^j tries ; and that Money which we fpend in 
 Treats and Taverns, they fpend in Coach and 
 Furniture. They never whifper privately with 
 one another in company , nor (peak to one ano- 
 ther aloud in an unknown tongue when they 
 are in converfation with others, thinking this 
 to be no other than a lowd whifpering. 
 
 They are precife in point of Ceremony and Re- Their Cc+ 
 eeptton ; and are not puzzled at all , when they remonies. 
 hear a great man is coming to vifit them. 
 
 There’s not a man of them, but he knows how 
 to entertain men of all conditions ; that is, 
 how far to meet, how to place them, how to 
 ftile and treat them , how to recondud them, 
 and how far. They are good for Nunciatures , 
 Emhaffles , and State Employments , being men of 
 good behaviour, looks, temper and difcretion, 
 and never out-running their bufinefs. They 
 are -great Lovers of Mufick , Meddals, Statues 
 and Pictures, as things which either divert their 
 Melancholy, or humor it : and I have read ofone 
 Jacomo Rayr.tr o y a Shoomaker of Bolognia , who 
 gathered together fo many curious Meddals of 
 Gold, Silver andBrafs, ss would have become 
 the Cabinet of any Prince. In fine, they are 
 extreamly civil to one another, not only out- 
 of an awe they Hand in one towards ano- 
 ther , not knowing whofe turn it may be next, 
 to come to the higheft Honours ; but alfo out 
 of a Natural Gravity and Civil Education, 
 which makes even School Boys ( an infolent Na- 
 tion any where elfe^ -moit refpedful to one ano- 
 ther in words and deeds ; treating one another 
 
 with 
 
jo l)t UXoya ge Of ITALY, Part I. 
 
 with Vofira Signoria , and abftaining from all gio- 
 co di memo . Nay Matters themfelves here, 
 never beat their Servant , but remit them to 
 Juftice, if the fault require it, and I cannot re- 
 member to have heard in Rome , two Women 
 fcold publickly, or Man and Wife quarrel in 
 words, except once ; and then they did it fo 
 privately and fecretly, and fcolded in fuch a 
 low tone, that I perceived the Italians had rea- 
 fbn about them even in themidft of their Choler . 
 
 As for their particular Cuftoms , they are many. 
 Their par- They marry by their ears, oftner than by their 
 t !!: u l dr eyes : and fcarce fpeak with one another, till 
 ^ufioms. meet k e f ore the Parifh Prieft, to fpeak 
 
 the indiffolvable words of Wedlock . They make 
 children to go bareheaded, till theybe four or five 
 years old , hardning them thus againft Rheums 
 and Catarrhs, when they {hall be old. * Hence 
 few people in Italy go fo warm on their Heads 
 as they do in France ; men in their Houfes wear- 
 ing nothing upon their heads but alittle Calotte-, 3>c 
 Women for the moft part, going all bareheaded in 
 the midft of Winter it felf Women herealfo wafh 
 their heads weekly in a wafh made for the nonce, 
 and dry them again in the Sun, to make their 
 hair yellow , a colour much in vogue here a- 
 mong Ladies. The Men throw of their Hats, 
 Cuffs, and Bands, as well as their Cloaks, at 
 their return home from vifits, or bufinefs, and 
 put on a gray coat, without which they cannot 
 dine, or fup ; and 1 have been invited to dinner, 
 by an Italian , who before dinner made his Men 
 take off our hats & cloaks, & prefent every one of 
 us(& we were five in all) with a coloured Coat &* a 
 
Part I. (Uopage of ITALY. 
 
 little Cap to dine in. At dinner, they ferve in 
 the bed meats firft, and eat backwards, that is, 
 they begin with the fecond courfe, and end with 
 boyl'd Meat and Pottage. They never prelent 
 you with Salt , or Brains of any Fowl , lead 
 they may teem to reproach unto you want of 
 Wit. They bring you drink upon a Sottocoppa 
 of filver, with three or four Glades upon it i 
 two or three of which are ftrait neckt Glades, 
 (called there Caraffas ) full of feveral forts of 
 Wines or Water,and one empty drinking Glafs, 
 into which you may pour what quantity of wine 
 and water you pleafe to drink , and not dand 
 to the difcretion of the waiters as they do mo- 
 ther Countries. At great feads, no man cuts 
 for himfelf, but feveral Carvers cut up all the 
 meat at a fide Table , and give to the Waiters, 
 to be carried to the Gueds; and every one 
 hath the very fame part of Meat carried unto 
 him, to wit, a Wing and a Leg of a wild Fowl, 
 &c. lead any one take exceptions that others 
 were better ufed than he. The Carvers never 
 touch the Meat with their Hands, but only 
 with their Knife and Fork, and great filver fpoon 
 for the Sauce. Every man here eats with his 
 Fork atid Knife, and never tou.cheth any thing 
 with his fingers, but his Eread ; this keeps the 
 Linen neat, and the Fingers fweet. If you 
 drink to an Italian , he thanks you with bend- 
 ing , when you falute him, and lets you drink 
 quietly, without watching (as we do in Eng- 
 land) to thank you again when you have drunk: 
 and the firft time he drinks after that, will be 
 
 to you , in requital of your former Courtefie. 
 
 They 
 
 11 
 
12 ‘vJDijC (Hdpage of ITALY. Parti, 
 
 They count not the hours of the day as we 
 do, from twelve to twelve ; but they begin their 
 count from Sun - fet , and the firft hour after 
 Jet is one a clock ; and fb they count on till four 
 and twenty , that is till the next Sunfet again. 
 I have often dined at fixteen a clock, and gone 
 abroad in the Evening, to take the Air, at two 
 and twenty. They call men much by their 
 Chriftian Names, Signor Pietro, Signor Francefco , 
 Signor Jacomo , &(. and you may live whole 
 
 Nomen, years with an Italian , and be very well ac« 
 
 tmen°s 3 ua ^ ntec ^ Wlt ^ w ^hout knowing him, that 
 
 Aug* U * 1S > wlt hout knowing his diftinftive furname. 
 People of quality never vifit one another, but 
 they fend firft , to know when they may do it 
 without troubling him they intend to vifit : by 
 this means they never rufh into one anothers 
 Chambers without knocking, as they do in 
 France ; norcrofs the Defigns or Bufinefs of 
 him they Vifit, as they do in England with 
 tedious dry Vifit 6 ; nor find one another 
 either undrefled in Cloths , unprovided in 
 Complements and Difcourfe, or without their 
 attendants, and train about them. In the Streets 
 Men and Women of Condition, feldom or ne- 
 ver go together in the fame Coach, except they 
 be ftrangers, that is , of another Town, or 
 Country: nay Husbands and Wives ar e fellow 
 feen together in the fame Coach , becaufe all 
 men do not know them to be fo. In the ftreets , 
 when two, Perfons of great Quality meet, as 
 two Embafjadors, or two Cardinals- they both 
 
Parti. 3 Lfje Qiaym of ITALY. 15 
 
 (top their Coaches , and Complement one ano- 
 ther civilly, and then retire ; but ftill he that is 
 inferiour muft let the others coach move firft. 
 
 If any man being a foot in the ftreet, meet a 
 great man, either in coach, or a foot, he muft 
 not falute him in going on his way , as we do in 
 Enghnd and France , without (topping ; but he 
 mult Itand ftill whiles the other paffeth, and 
 bend refpe&fully to him as he goes by , and 
 then continue his march. In fine, of all the Na- 
 tions I have (een, I know none that lives,cloath$, 
 eats, drinks -and (peaks fo much with rea- 
 (on, as the Italians do. 
 
 As for their Riches , they muft needs be great. Their 
 That which is vifible in their magnificent^^ 
 Palaces , Churches , Monafteries , Gardens , 
 Fountains, and rich furniflied Rooms, (peaks 
 that to be great which is in the Coffers: 
 and that which the King of Spain draws vi- 
 fiBly from Naples every year, (hews what the 
 other parts of Italy could do fora need, if they 
 were put to it by neceftity. Nay, I am of o^- 
 pinion, that the very Sacrifty of Loretto , the Gal- 
 lery of the Duke of Florence , and the Treafary 
 of Venice , would upon an emergent occafion of 
 a Gothick , or Turkijh invafion, be able to main- 
 tain an Army for five years (pace ; and the Plate 
 in Churches and Monafteries, would be able to 
 do as much more, if the owners of it were 
 foundly frighted with a new Gothick irruption. 
 
 As for the Riches of particular Princes in Italy ,1 
 will lpeak of them , as I view their States here 
 below. 
 
 In fine, 
 
*4 
 
 Their Re- 
 ligion. 
 
 Rex eft 
 nomen of~ 
 ficii. 
 S.Ambr. 
 
 €ljc Ciopmje of ITALY. Part I. 
 
 In fine, as for their Religion , it’s purely that 
 which other Countries call by the name Catho- 
 lick ; and which in England they commonly 
 call, the Religion of the Papifts. And though 
 there they think to nickname the Catholick by 
 calling him Papift, yet the well inftruded Ca- 
 tholick knowing that the name of Papift, comes 
 not from any Sed-mafter, as, Socmian and 
 Browni/l do ; nor from any Senary Meeting place, 
 as Hugonots from the Gate of Hugo in Tours in 
 France , near unto which they met privately at 
 firft to teach and dogmatife : nor from any 
 publick Sedary adion , as Anabaptifts, 
 Dippers, Quakers, &c. do: but from the word 
 Tap a , which fignifies Father , and is not the 
 name of any one Man, or Pope, but only fig- 
 nifies his Fatherly Office of Paftor : the Catho- 
 lick, I fay, is no more troubled at this nam%of 
 Papift, than he was when he was called in the 
 late troubles, Royahft (for adhering to the King 
 which is not the name of any of our Kings, but 
 his Office only) and not CrormvelliH, which was 
 the name of one adhering to a particular Man 
 called Cromwel , and an unlawful Ufuper of 
 Power. As for the true name indeed , 
 which is Catholick , all thofe of that Church have 
 ever called themfelves by no other Name than 
 this of Catholick, the wifcft of Proteftants alfo 
 acknowledge it publickly to be their diftindive 
 name ; witnefs that fblemn meeting at Munfter, 
 fome years ago , about the General Peace of 
 Chriftendom, where the Publick Injlmment of 
 that Peace fheweth plainly how that the Pro- 
 
 teftant 
 
Part I. C&e SJopage Of ITALY. 
 
 teftant Plenipotentiaries ("the wifeft Men of 
 that Religion ) treated with the Papifts, as tome 
 call them, under the name of Catholicks : and 
 though in many other Titles and Denominati- 
 ons, they were very wary and fcrupulous, e« 
 venjto the long fiifpenfion ofthe Peace, yet they 
 willingly concluded, fubfcribed, and fignedthat 
 Peace made with them, under the name of Ca« 
 tholicks. I lay this only, for to make men under- 
 ftand, what the true name of the Religion pra- 
 ftifed over all Italy is, to wit , Catholick. 
 
 * 
 
 Having faid thus much of Italy in general, I 
 will now come to a particular Defcription ofit, 
 according to the ocular Obfervations I made of 
 it in five feveral Voyages through it. In which 
 Defcription, if I be a little prolixe, it is becaufe 
 I rid not Poft through Italy , when I law it ; nor 
 will I write poft through it, in deferibing it ; 
 being affured, that Epitomes in Geophraphy are 
 as diflatisfa&ory , as Laconick Letters would 
 be in State Relations ; and that the great At- 
 las , in nine great volumes in folio , is not only 
 Atlas Major , but alfo Atlas Mdior. 
 
 The feveral Ways by which a 
 Man may go into Italy. 
 
 T HE ordinary ways which an Englifhman 
 may take in going into Italy, 'are five to wit, 
 either through Flanders and Germany ; and fb to fall 
 
1 6 TO Oopage Of ITALY. Part I. 
 
 2 . in at Trent, or Trevifo , and fo to Venice. Or elfe by 
 France jkfo to MarfeiUesfk thence to Genoa by Sea. 
 
 3 . Or elfe by Land from Lyons through Swifjerland , 
 the Grifons Country, ana the Valtoline 9 and fo pop 
 
 4* up at Brefcia. Or elfe fvomLyons again through the 
 Valefians Country over Mount Samp on, the Lake 
 Major, andfo to Milan. Or elfe in fine , from 
 Lyons ftill over Mount Cents and fo to Turin f 
 the neareft F oft -Way. I have gone, or come, 
 all thefe ways, in my five Voyages inta Italy, 
 and though I prefer the laft for (peed and con- 
 ven;ency ; yet I will describe the others too , 
 that my young Traveller may know how to 
 fleer his Courfe , either in time of Plague or 
 War. 
 
 My firjl Voyage into Italy. 
 
 M Y firft Voyage was through Flanders and 
 Germany , and fo to Trent. The way is, 
 from England to Dunkirk \ from thence to 
 Fume , Newport , Oflend, Bruges, Gant, BrujJ'els , Lo» 
 vain , Liege , Cohn, Mayence , Franc ford, and fo 
 croffing to Munichen, the Court of the Duke of 
 Bavaria, 8rfrom thence to Aushurg, and Infpruck, 
 you come#foon to Trent , which ftands upon 
 the Confines of Germany, and lets you into Italy , 
 by Trevifo, belonging to the Venetians. To deferibe 
 all thefe forefaid places would take me too 
 much time from my defign of deferibing Italy , 
 and therefore I content my felf only to have 
 named them. 
 
 My 
 
Part h €De cla»itge Of ITALY, 1 7 
 
 My Jecond Voyage. 
 
 M Y fecond Voyage was by the way of France , 
 where Iftarted from Fans, Sc made towards 
 Lyons ; in the way I took notice of thele places. 
 
 Tjjone a neat houfe belonging then to Monfieur Tjfone \ 
 Effolin. The HoUle is fo pretty, that I think it 
 worth the Travellers feeing, and my deferi- 
 bing. It ftands in the fhade of a thick grove 
 of Trees, and is wholly built and furnilhed^P 
 Italiana. Under the fide of the Houle , runs a 
 little Brook, which being received into a Baton 
 of Free-ftone, juft as long as the Houle , and 
 made like a Ship , (that is, lharp at both ends 
 and wide in the middle,) it is cloven ^ and di- 
 vided into two, by the fharp end of this Ship 
 and conveyed in clofe Channels of free-ftone, 
 on both fides of the Ship or Baton, into which 
 it empties it felf by feveral Tunnels , or Pipes: 
 lo that all this Water fpouting into the o- 
 pen Ship on both fides , by four and twenty 
 Tunnels, makes under the Windows of the 
 Houfe, fuch a perpetual purling of Water/ like 
 many Fountains,) that the gentle noife is able to 
 make the molt jealous Man ileep profoundly.. 
 
 At the other end of the Houfe, this Water, 
 iftueth out of the other end of the faid Ship, and 
 is courteoufly intreated by feveral hidden pipes 
 of Lead, to walk into the houfe, inftead of 
 running by lofaft: which it doth, andispre-. 
 fently led into the Cellars, and Buttery ; and 
 riot only into thefe , butalfo into the Kitehin , 
 Stables , Chambers , and Bathing Room > 
 
 € dl 
 
j8 
 
 Fountain- 
 
 beUem. 
 
 The Court 
 oftheC he- 
 val Blanc. 
 
 The Oval 
 Court. 
 
 The Guile - 
 ry of 
 Staggs 
 Heads. 
 
 The Galle- 
 ries of Ro- 
 Jnances, 
 
 f&ty dosage Of ITALY. Parti. 
 
 all which it furnifheth with Water either few: 
 Neceflity or Pleafure. Then being led into the 
 curious Garden, its met there by a world of 
 little open Channels of Free-ftone, built like 
 Knots of Flowers ; all which it fills brimful, 
 and makes even Flowers of Water. Then run- 
 ning up and down here and there among the 
 fragrant Delights of this Garden , as if it had 
 forgotten its Errand to the Sea , it feems to be 
 fo taken with thofe fweet Beds of Flowers, and 
 fo defirous of retting upon them, after fo many 
 miles^ running, that if offers to turn it felf into a= 
 ny pofture , rather than be turned out of this 
 fweet place. 
 
 From YJJ'one I came to Fount ain-belleau, where 
 I faw that Kingly Houfe, the Nonfuch of France . 
 It ftands in the midft of a great Foreft full of 
 Royal Game, and the place of Delight of Hen- 
 ry the Fourth. The Houfe is capable of lodg- 
 ing four Kings with their feveral Courts . 
 The Court of th eCheval Blanc is a noble fquare 
 of Buildings: but the lownefs of the Buildings 
 and Lodgings (hews, they are for the lower fort 
 of People , and the Servant -Lodgings to the 
 Royal Apartments .* The Oval Court is a good 
 old Building. The Kings and Queens Lodgings 
 with their Cabinets groan under their rich gilt 
 Roofs. The Gallery of Staggs Heads is a ffately 
 Room, than which nothing can be more Cava- 
 lierly furnifhed ; except fuch an other Gallery 
 hung with Turkijh Standards won in War. The 
 other long Galleries of Romances and Fables , 
 painted by Simon Voyet and others, are much e- 
 Iteemed ; the only pity is, that fuch true paint- 
 ing 
 
Parti. Ctye 3 Jopao;e of ITALY. 19 
 
 ing thould not have been employed upon true 
 Hiftories. 
 
 7 “he Salle of the Conference , is a ftately Room, The Salle 
 where the Bifhop of Eureux (afterwards called °f theCon - 
 the Cardinal du Tenon ) in prefence of King ^f^* 
 Henry the Fourth , the Chancellor , fiv e Judges pMck 
 of both Religions , and the whole Room fullo xABsoftbk 
 learned Men , ditpUted with Monfieur Tlejjis Conference 
 Mornay, the Achilles of thofe of Charenton. The P f ™ te & Am 
 Hall of Maskes, and the Lodgings of Madame 1 01 * 
 Gabnelle with her Tillure over the Chimney like 
 a Diana Hunting , are fine Rooms : yet the Pic j uret 
 fair Pidture cannot hinder Men from blaming 
 her foul Life ; nor from cenfuring that Solcecifm 
 of the Painter , who made Chaft Diana look r ^ c ^ 
 like Madame Gabrielle. There are alto here two ^ f * 
 Chapels , the old and the new. The old one 
 is a poor thing ; and teems to have been built for 
 Hunters : but the new one is both neat and 
 ftately , and built upon this occafion , as a 
 Bithop in Trance told me. A Spanijh Embaffadour 
 r eliding in Tarts in Henry the I\L his time ; went 
 one day from Paris to Fountainbleau , to tee 
 this French Efcurial. Arriving, he lighted after 
 his Countries Fafhion , at the Chapel Door 
 (the old Chapel) and entring in, to thank God 
 for his fafe arrival, he wondred to tee to poor 
 and dark a Chapel, and asking with indignati- 
 on, whether this were the Cafa di dios ? the 
 Houte of God ? he turned prefently away with 
 feorn, laying No quiero Veer . mas ; i care for 
 teeing no more : not haying to lee that place,; 
 where the King had to fine a Houfe, and God 
 to. poor a ChapeL This being told; the lafi King 
 C z Lems 
 
20 
 
 C&S Of ITALY. Part I. 
 
 Lewis the Xllf. he commanded forthwith the 
 new Chapel to be built in that fumptuous po- 
 fture we now fee it. 
 
 Going out of theHoufe, you find a handfbme 
 Mail, and Rare Ponds of Water , which even 
 baptize this place with the Name of Fountain - 
 belleau. In thefe Ponds , as alfb in the Moat a- 
 Qid Carps . bout the Houfe, are conferved excellent Carps ; 
 fbme whereof were laid to be an hundred years 
 old : which though we were not bound to be- 
 lieve; yet their very white fcales,and dull mo- 
 ving up and down, might make Men believe 
 that there ar t gray jcales , as well as gray hairs '. ; 
 and decayed fifhes , as well as decrepid Men ; 
 $$ efpecially when Columella fpeaks of a Fifh of his 
 Acquaintance, in Casfars Filh Ponds near Paufi- 
 lippm ; which had lived threefcore years;and Gefi 
 nerus relates, that maFifh-Pond near Haylprum 
 in Suabe , a Fifh was catched Anno 1497, with 
 a BrafsRing at his Gills, in which wereingraven 
 thefe words : I amthefirfi Fijh which Frederick 
 the fecondjGovernour of the World, put into this Pond 
 the $ ofOBober 1203. By which it appears, that 
 this Fifh had lived two hundred and fixty odd 
 years. But to return again to our Carps of 
 Fount ain-belleau. It’s an ordinary divertifement 
 here, to throw an halfpenny loaf into the Moat 
 among the Carps , and to fee how they will 
 mumble and jumble it to and fro ; how others 
 will puff and fnuff, and take it ill not to have 
 part of it ; and how in fine, they will plainly 
 fall to blows , and fight for it. You would 
 wonder, how filch hot Paffions fhould be found 
 in cold Water;, but every thing that lives, will 
 
Part I. Cfje Sewage Of ITALY. 2 1 
 
 fight for that which makes it live , its Victu- 
 als. 
 
 Having feen Fountain-belle au , I law one ex- 4n old In- 
 traordinary thing in the reft of the way to Ly-f cri P tion 
 ons y but an old Infcrijtion in letters of Gold , up 
 on a Wooden Fabrick, a mile before I came to Men. 
 Montargis, importing, that the Enghjh being 
 encamped here, had been forced to raife their 
 Siege before Montargis , by reafbn of great 
 Rain and fudden Inundations. Some of the 
 French Hiftorians will have it, that it was the 
 Count de Dunois , that forced the Englifh to raife 
 the Siege here : but J had rather believe publick 
 Infcriptions, than private flattery : and it was 
 more honourable for me English to be over- 
 come by God , than by Men. 
 
 From hence I pafled through Montargis , a Mont ink. 
 neat pleafant Town ; in the great Hall of whole 
 Caftle , is painted the Hiftory of the Dog that 
 fought a Duel with the Murderer of his Mafter; 
 and it is not ftrange that the Dog that had put 
 on Humanity, overcame him that had put it oif, 
 to efpoufe the devouring humour of a Deg. 
 
 This is the chief Town ofthe Gaft mots . 
 
 From hence I went to Briar e , where { law the "Brim. 
 cut Channel that joyris Loire and Sene together TheCon- 
 inTraffick, whofe Beds otherwife ft and wide F n ^ !0ii 
 from one another in lituation. SeK& . 
 
 From thence to Coftne , la Char it e , Tongues fa- 
 mous for wholefome ftinking waters ; Neures , 
 famous for Glafs Houfes ; Moulins famous for 
 Knives and Sciffors ; La Palifte where they 
 make excellent Winter-Boots ; Roanne where 
 Loire begins to be navigable, and io over Tck- 
 rara Hills to Lyons. G 3 Lyons 
 
22 (Ho^gc Of ITALY. Parti 
 
 Lyons. Lyons is one of the gleatefl and richefl Towns 
 in France. It (lands upon the Rivers Saone and 
 Rhojhe , (Araris and Rhodanm ) and intercepting 
 all the Merchandife of Burgundy , Germany and 
 Italy , it licks its fingers notably, and thrives by 
 it. it expreffeth this in its looks * for here you 
 have handfome people ; noble houfes, great 
 jollity, frequent balls, and much bravery: all 
 jnarks of a good Town : and could it but inter- 
 cept either the Parliament of Aix or Grenoble , 
 it would be as noble as its name , or as its Ca- 
 A noble thredral Chapter , whole Dean and Prebends are 
 chapter. a ]l Counts , and noble of four defcents : They 
 got the Title of County thus : A great conteft 
 arifing between th e Chapter of St .Johns Church, 
 and the Count de For r efts, called Guigo , for fome 
 rights over the Town of Lyons ^hich they 
 both pretend to; Anno n 66. they came 
 
 to an agreement, upon this condition , that the 
 fount fliould leave to the Chapter his County of 
 Forr efts', which he did; andfo ever fince the 
 Dean and Prebends have been called Counts of 
 8. "John. 
 
 The chief things to be feen in Lyons are 
 thefe. 
 
 i The great Church, or Cathedral called 
 S. Johns Johns Church. It’s the Seat of an Archbifhcp , 
 Church . who is Primate of Gaul, S. Jrenreus was a great 
 
 Ornament of this Church, as was alfo Eucherws. 
 Upon Solemn Days the Canons officiate in Mi- 
 ters like Bifhops. They fing here all the Of- 
 fice by Heart, and without Rook , as alfb with- 
 out Prick-Song Mufick, Organs, or other Inftrp- 
 ^ ments 5 ufing only theantient prain-fbng. The 
 
 H/gh 
 
2 S 
 
 Part I. €(je Clopage of ITALY. 
 
 High Altar is like thofe of Italy, that is open on 
 all iides , with a Crucifix and two little Candle- 
 fticks upon it. I never faw any hangings in this 
 Church, not upon the greateit days, but Ve- 
 nerable old Walls. The Clock here is much 
 cryed up for a rare piece. 
 
 2» The (lately new Tovm-houfe , of pure Muf™* 
 White-free-ftone, able to match that of Am - 
 fterdam ; and indeed they fecmed to me to be 
 Twins; ford faw them both in the fame 
 year as they were in building. The curious 
 Stair-Cafe, and Hall above, are the things moft 
 worthy taking notice of, the one for its con- 
 trivance ; the other for its painting. 
 
 3. The Jefiiits College and fair Library. 4. 0t ^ er 
 The Carthufians Monaftery upon a high Hill. 5 -. rem 
 The Minimes JSachrifty well painted. 6. The 
 reft of the old Aquedud upon the Hill. 7. The 
 MailpxA thefweet place of Belle Cour. 8. The 
 Heart of Saint Francis de Sales in the Church of 
 the Vifitation in Belle Cour . 9. The C barite 
 
 where ail the poor are kept at work with admi- 
 rable (economy : It looks like a little Town, 
 having in it nine Courts, all built up withlodf** 
 ingsfor the poor , who are about fifteen hun- 
 dred, and divided into feveral Gaffes , with 
 their feveral Refedories and Chapels. 10. 
 
 The Head of St. Bonaventure in the Cordeliers 
 Church. The Caftle of Tierre Ancife , built 
 upon a Rock. 1 2. Noftre Damede Fourier (landing 
 upon a high hill, from whence you have a per- 
 fed view of Lyons. 
 
 C 4 
 
 13. Laftly, 
 
24 Cfje dopage Of ITALY. Parti. 
 
 The rare 13. Laftly, the rare Cabinet of Monfieur Ser- 
 
 Cahinet of a molt ingenious Gentleman ; where I (aw 
 
 ^rvitf mo ^ rare ex P er i men ts in Mathematicks and Me- 
 canicks, all made by his own hand;as the Sympa- 
 thetical Balls, one (pringing up at the approach of 
 the other held up a prefty diftance off: -the de- 
 monftration of a quick way how to pals any Ar- 
 my over a River with one Boat, and a Wooden 
 Bridge eafily to.be folded up upon one Cart : 
 the Moufe -dial , where a little thing, like a 
 Moufe, by her infenfible motion, marks the 
 hours of the day. The Lizard-Dial is much 
 like the former, only the Moufe moves upon 
 a plain Frame of Wood which hath the hours 
 marked on it ; and the Lizard creeps upward 
 from hour to hour. The Night dial , (hewing . 
 fey a lighted Lamp fet behind it, the hours of 
 the night, which are painted in colours upon 
 oyled Paper, and turn about as the time goes. 
 The Tort oife- dial, where a piece of Cork cut 
 like a Tortoife, being put into a Pewter Difh 
 of Water, which hath the twelve hours of 
 the day marked upon its brims, goeth up and 
 down the water a while , (eeking out the hour 
 of the day that is then , and there fixing it (elf 
 without ftirring. The Rare Engine, teaching 
 how to throw Granados into befieged Towns, 
 and into' any precife place without failing. 
 The way how to fet up a Watch-Tower with 
 a Man in it, to look into a Town from without; 
 and fee how they are drawn up within the 
 Town : Away how to change Dining-Rooms 
 three or four times with their Tables, the Seats 
 and Gueffcs, being by the turning of a wheel 
 1 • \ ‘ tranf-. 
 
Part I. C&e CJopage of ITALY. 2 5 
 
 tranlported fitting, out of oneRoom into another: 
 and 16 into three or four more Rooms varioufly 
 hung with Tables covered. The Defk-Dial 
 which throws up a little Ball of Ivory without 
 reft, and thereby marketh the hour of the day, 
 and fheweth what a clock it is : the Dial of the 
 Vianet s reprefenting the days of the Week 
 by feveral figures in Ivory of the Planets : 
 the Oval- dial, in which the needle that marks 
 the hours , Ihrinketh in , or ftretcheth out 
 it felf according as the Oval goes : the Dial 
 fhewing to every one that toucheth it his pre- 
 dominant Vaffion ; with a world of other rare 
 curiofities allmade by this ingenious Gentleman. 
 
 Leaving Lyons , I embarked in a Cabanne. or 
 little covered Boat, and defending the rapid 
 Rhofne , l came Poft by Water , to Vienne ; Vienne. 
 where Pontius Pilate , banifhed hither, threw 
 himfelf off a high Tower and killed him felf The 
 Cathedral of thisTown is a fairChurch dedicated 
 to God, in the Honour of St. Maurice : there are 
 neither Pidures,nor Hangings in this Church. 
 
 From hence I went to Tournon , where I faw rournon. 
 a good Library in the College. 
 
 Thence to Valence in Dauphine , where Law pr a j ence 
 is taught. 
 
 From whence I came to Pont Saint Efprit p s 
 famous for its long Bridge of thirty three Epp r \ t _ 
 Arches , and for the Bones of a Gyant which 
 are conferved in the Dominicans Convent here ; 
 
 And from hence to Avignon. 
 
 Avignon is the head Town ofa little Country, 
 called Vulgarly the Contad Le Cent ad d y Avig- Avl ^ non ' 
 non. It belongs to the Pope , having been 
 
 pur- 
 
€l)C mm* of ITALY. Part L 
 
 purchafed by one of his PredecdTors anciently 
 of Jane, Queen of Naples and Count efs of Avig- 
 non : and it ferved tor a fafe retreat to divers 
 Popes confecutively , during the troubles of 
 Italy which lafted above feventy years. At laft, 
 Italy and the Popes Territories there , being 
 cleared by the admirable Courage and Con- 
 dud of brave Cardinal Albornoz*z>o, who conque- 
 red again all the Popes Eftate. The Tope Gre- 
 gory the XI. returned home again to Rome. 
 Oftheforefaid Cardinal Albornoz,z>o , I cannot 
 omit to tell one thing ; That after his greatSer- 
 vices rendered to the Pope , being envied by 
 feme of the Court, who had perfWaded his 
 Holinefs to call him to an Accompt for the 
 great Summs of Money he had (pent in redu- 
 cing again the whole State of the Pope unto 
 its Obedience ; he brought the next morning 
 a Cart laden with Chains, Bolts, Locks and Keys 
 belonging once to thofe Towns which he had 
 retaken for the Pope , and placed it under 
 the Popes Window ; then going up , one defi- 
 ring hisHolinefs to draw to a Window to fee 
 his Accompts the better , he opened the Win- 
 dow, and (hewed him below, the Cart laden 
 with Chains , Bolts , Locks and Keys ; faying 
 Holy Father , I [pent all your Money in making you 
 Majter again of thofe Towns, whofe Keyes, Locks, 
 Bolts and Chains you fee in that Cart below . At 
 which the Pope admiring, defined no more Ac- 
 compt of him, who proved his Honefty by 
 whole Cart-loads of Services Ever fmee that 
 time, Avigno * hath belonged to the Pope ; and 
 he governeth it by a Vice-Legat immediately , 
 
Part I. €i?e (Hopagc of ITALY. 27 
 
 the Pope’s Nephew pro tempore , being always 
 Legato? this Town* 
 
 The things 1 (aw here were thefe : r. The The fyrc- 
 Cathedral Church , with divers Tombs of Popes ties - 
 in it that dyed here. 2. The Church of S. Di- 
 dier, with the Tomb of Petrus Damianus who 
 followed the Pope hither : He was famous for 
 his learned works, and his known fendity. 3. 
 
 The Church of the Celeftins , with the 'Tomb and 
 neat Chapel of Cardinal Peter of Luxenburg , a 
 young Man of a great Family, and of a greater 
 San&ity. 4. The Carthufians Monaftery in} the 
 Bourg of VtUeneuue , where you {hall fee much 
 good painting. 5*. The Dominicans fair Con- 
 vent, with the Chapel and true Pifture of St. 
 
 Vicentius F err erius , a Holy Man of this Order. 
 
 6. The Cordeliers Church famous for its wide- 
 nefs, and yet not fiipported by any Pillars. 
 
 Here lyes buried Madam Laura, rendered fb 
 famous by Petrarch’s Verfes : not that {lie was 
 a difhoneft Women , but onely chofen by him 
 to be the Poetical Miftrefs of his Sonnets. 7. 
 
 The Church of the Fathers of the Chrifiian 
 Doctrine , with the Body , yet entire, of the 
 Founder of their order, P. Cafarde Bus, a Man 
 of fijeh fmgular Sanftity , that Cardinal Richlieu , 
 banifhed hither , whiles he was only BKhop 
 of Lufon , offered and vowed a Silver Lamp 
 to God at the Tomb of this holy Beato. 8 . 
 
 The fine Free-ftone Walls of this Town, the 
 admirable Bridge, many handfbme Palaces aid 
 curious Gardens. 9. The Trading of this 
 Town, which confifts much in Silk ftutfs, perfu- 
 med Gloves, Ribbands, and fine Paper. 10, The 
 
 In- 
 
28 Cf)C Of ITALY. Part I. 
 
 Inhabitants here, who love to go well adjufted 
 and appear in fine clothes. 
 
 Aix, From Avignon I went by Land to Aix in Pro- 
 
 vence , 2nUniver(ityfi Parliament Town, and one 
 of the neateft Towns in France : of the Parlia- 
 ment of this Town Monfieur du Vair was the 
 firft Prefident , and a fingular Ornament, by 
 reafbn of his famous Eloquence. This Town 
 is the feat ofan Archbifhop : and is now poffef 
 fed by Cardinal Grimaldi who is Archbijljop here. 
 From hence I went to Marfeilles. 
 
 Marseilles. Marfeilles is a very antient Town, built 633 
 years before our Saviours time, and fo famous 
 antiently for learning , that it was compared 
 with Athens. It ftands upon the Mediterranean 
 Sea , and hath a moft neat Haven and Harbour 
 for Ships and Gallies. I flayed here eight days 
 to wait upon the return of two Gallies of Ge- 
 noa , that had brought an EmbafFadour from 
 thence into France , and were to return with- 
 in a few days. In this time, I had leifure to 
 make a little excurfive Voyage to the famous 
 L.i } a 1 nte pHce of Devotion called La Saint e Beaume , 
 Bourne. w j lere g. Mary Magdalen lived a moft peniten- 
 See Bare- tial life in thefie Mountains and Defarts , even 
 nl-M ad after (he had been allured of her Pardon by 
 Gordofi our Saviour himfelf. The place it felfisable to 
 Cronohly ma ^ e an y M an ^ iat confidereth it well, melt into 
 Gerard of feme Penance too, and fig h, at leaft, to fee how 
 Nazareth much fhe (a woman) did, and how little he (a 
 m a Tret- Man ) doth ; for excelkntijfima animadvert enti, ne 
 P^ofeffo tnediocria qutdem praftare, rub or i oportet effe , faith 
 ^ ‘ Cu a great Author. In Marfeilles it felf there re- 
 main 
 
Part I. %l)t (Uopflge of ITALY. 29 
 
 main fome prints of her begun Penance : 
 but fhe that had been a (inner in the City (and Valer. 
 perchance by that occafion only) thought the Max. 
 Defart a fafer place ; and fo fhewed her Conver- ^ ier - 
 lion to be true, by flying the occafions ofherf^Sf, 
 former Sins. 
 
 If you ask me, how Mary Magdalen came hi- see Baron. 
 ther ; I muft ask you, how JoJeph of Arimathea An. 35. 
 came into England : and learned Baronim will Genebrad. 
 anfwer us both ; by telling us, that upon a per- 
 fecution raifed againft the Chrifiians in Hierufa- an d MoZ 
 lem ; Mary Magdalen , her Sifter Martha , her fieur du 
 Brother Lazarus with Jofeph of Arimathea , and ^ d r ° 
 divers others of the firft Chriflians, were expofed 
 to Sea in a Ship without Sails, without Rudder, 
 without Anchor , without Pilot, and yet the 
 Ship came happily to Marjeilles where Laza- 
 rus preaching the Faith of Chrijl , was made the 
 firft Bifhop of this Town; and Jofeph of Ari- 
 mathea came into England, 
 
 Near to Saint e Beaume ftands the Town of 
 S. Maximin , famous for the Church of S. Maxi- s.Maxi- 
 min , governed by Dominican Friars. In this mn - 
 Church are to be feen many famous Relifues of 
 S. Mary Magdalen ; aS her Head in a Cryftal 
 Cafe enchated in Gold ; her body in a gilt 
 Chaff , and divers other rich things. 
 
 Having feen Marseilles , I embarked in the 
 forefaid Gallies, and was nine days in them 
 before I arrived at Genoa ; having feen in the 
 way, Toulon , Nice , Antiho , Monaco , Savona , 
 and fb to Genoa. 
 
 Thus 
 
go Cfje Clopage Of ITALY. Part! 
 
 Thus I pafled, though tedioufly, yet fecurely 
 > from France into Italy by Sea : and l could al- 
 
 moft wifh my Traveller to take the fameCourle, 
 if he were fure to find two Gallies well 
 manned , as I did, to carry him thither. Other- 
 wife to venture himfelf (as Men ordinarily with 
 extraordinary danger do) in a little Feluca , a 
 Boat little bigger than a pair of Oars, is a thing 
 I would wifh none to do, but Pyrronians , and 
 Tyrrho Indifferent s who think danger and fecurity to be 
 
 dicebaty m- 4-j^ fa me thing. For my part though I dare 
 intTvi- not fa Y with that cowardly Italian , who being 
 tam & laughed at for his running away in a Battle, an- 
 mortem, fwered ; I was not affraid , but only had a mind 
 to try how long a Mans Skin well kept would lafl : 
 yet I dare fay with generous Cato , that I re- • 
 pent me foundly,if ever I went by Water, when 
 I could have gone by Land. 
 
 My Third Voyage . 
 
 M Y third Voyage into Italy was again by 
 the way of Paris and Lyons : but now 
 by Geneva and Swifferland. 
 
 Parting then from Lyons I palled over the 
 Grand Credo , a (mart hill ; through Nantua han- 
 ding upon a Lake , and in two days came to 
 Geneva. 
 
 Geneva, Geneva is built at the bottom of Savoy , France 
 and Germany. 
 
 The things which I faw in Geneva were thefe: 
 I. The great Church of S. Peter, the Cathedral 
 The %ari- an tiently ofthe Bifhop of this Town. In the 
 
 ***• Qmre 
 
Parti. C&€ aiopage Of ITALY. 
 
 Quire I law yet remaining ^the PiBures of the 
 twelve Prophets on one fide^nd the Pictures of 
 the twelve Apoftles on the other fide.all engraven 
 in Wood. Tne Pidures alio of the BlelTed Vir- 
 gin Mary , and S. Peter , in one of the Windows. 
 Here alfo I law the Tomb of the Duke of Bouillon 
 General of the Army of Germans , called then 
 in Prance the Reiters , who in the Battle of Auh 
 neau were beaten by the Duke of Guife and 
 forced to fly to Geneva , having loft i8co 
 of their men upon the place, moft of them 
 with Charms about their necks , which they 
 thought would have made them (hot-free. 
 Mounting up to the Steeple, I faw a fair Bell 
 with a Crucifix caft upon it, (hewing whole it 
 was ; and four good pieces of Ordnance , that 
 none may fay, the Church of Geneva wants Eccle- 
 fiafiical Cannons. And a little below in the Bel - 
 frey , there live in feveral Chambers , three 
 or four Families of Husbands and Wives and 
 fucking Children begotten there ; contrary 
 to the Canons of any other Church, except thole 
 of Geneva. From the top of this Church you 
 have a fair profped upon the Lake and neigh- 
 bouring Countries ; which makes them brag 
 here, that they can lee from their Steeple, into 
 fix feveral principalities , to wit, their own, 
 France , Savoy , Swijferland, the Valefians, and the 
 Franchecounty : But I told them, it would be a 
 greater Brag, to fay, that they could fee into 
 no other Country or Dominion but their own. 
 2 . 1 faw the Arfienaf little, but well ftored with 
 defenfive Arms. They never forget to (hew 
 the Ladders of the Savoyards , who attempted 
 
J2 
 
 mom* of italy, 
 
 to furprize this Town by foaling, 
 
 Part h 
 
 but were 
 
 themfelves taken and beheaded a la chaude , 
 leaft tome Prince fhould have interceded for 
 them. 3. The Town Houfe with the Chamber 
 where the Magifirates (Tomething like the Hogen 
 Mogens of Holland) fit in Counfel. 4. They 
 fhew’dme here a Library, but none of the belt. 
 5. The admirable Trouts here, able to make 
 them wilh for their Lent again ; were it not, 
 that the Capons here are full as good in their 
 Kind. 
 
 As for the Government of this Town, it was 
 anciently Monarchical , and the Bifhop was 
 Prince of it under the Duke of Savoy : but Farel 
 and Calvin coming hither with their Anarchical 
 Presbytery , drove the Bifhop Peter de la Beaume 
 out of the Town ; and eftablifhed there a kind 
 of Democracy , or rather a kind of Arifiocracy i 
 mingled of Laymen and Minifters. Yet the 
 Bifhop keeps ftillhis Tittle, and the Chapter its 
 Revenues and Lands, which happily lyes in Sa- 
 voy out of the reach of the fhort jurifdi&ion of 
 Geneva.Both the Bijhop and Chapter refide at Am- 
 fy and Savoy , and officiate in the Cordeliers 
 Church. Of this Seat was Bifhop, the late Cano- 
 TemtsaS. nized Saint , S. Francis de Sales , a man of fing- 
 Jtomualdo g U \ ar fweetnefs and piety , mingled with zeal 
 in Demo. an( j djfcfetion. 1 have read of him , that in his 
 life time, he made four thoufand fermons to the 
 people. 
 
 Having thus feen the little All of Geneva , I 
 made towards Swijferland, leaving the Lake on 
 The hie cf my right hand; or rather taking it on my right 
 Geneva. h anc j- for it would needs accompany me to Lau- 
 
 fanm 
 
Part I. Clje Clopage OPITALY. 3 3 
 
 [anna , where it took leave of me , or I 
 of it. 
 
 This Lake is abfblutely the faireft I have 
 feen : it’s fairer than either the Lake Major, the 
 Lake of Como , the Lake of Zuric , the Lake of 
 IVallenfiat , the Lake of Ifee, the Lake of Murat, 
 or the Lake of Garda . In fome places this Lake 
 of Geneva is eight miles broad, and well nigh 
 fifty miles long. I have read of a hranger,who 
 travelling that way alone in Winter , when the 
 Lake was all frozen over, and covered with 
 Snow, took the Lake for a large Plain, and rid 
 upon it eight, or Ten miles to the Town. 
 
 Where lighting at his Inn, and commending the 
 fine Plain, over which he had ridden, was gi- 
 ven to underhand , that he had ridden, if not 
 in the Air, at leah fifteen Fathom above ground ; 
 at which the poor Man refleding upon the 
 danger he had been in, fell down dead with the 
 conceit ofit. Thus we are troubled not only 
 at evils to corhe,but at evils pah ; and are ne- 
 ver (o near the danger of death as when we are 
 newly pah it. No Animal but man, hath this 
 Folly. 
 
 Leaving then, as I laid, the Lake, I came (bon Lmfanm 
 after to Laufanna in SwiJJerland , belonging' to 
 the Canton of Berne. Here I (aw an antient 
 Church of a noble Strudure ; and once a Bi- 
 fiiops Cathedral , but now poffehed by Minihers 
 of Calvin's Communion ; and the Man that 
 fhe wed us the Church ("though no Catholickj a f- 
 fured us, that the Records of that Church bore* 
 that Mafs had been faid in it thirteen hundred 
 years ago. 
 
 D 
 
 from' 
 
n 
 
 Svrijfer- 
 
 land. 
 
 Berne Sig- 
 nifies as 
 •much as 
 Bear. 
 
 Soleur . 
 
 Petrus lie- 
 raua/ldi/A in 
 Cronolog. 
 Trefor. to. 
 i. pa%. 83. 
 in fcl. 
 
 ‘Murat. 
 
 'QLlf: (Llo^nge Of IT ALY. Part t. 
 
 From Laufanna I went towards Soleur , skir- 
 ting through the Cantons , fometimes of Berne 
 fometimes of Friburg , and fometimes in one 
 days journey, I palled into a Catholick Canton , 
 and by and by into a Proteftant Canton again ; 
 for here Catholick and Trotefiant Villages are 
 mingled together, and make the Country look 
 like the back fide of a pair of Tables, checque- 
 red with white and black. In one Village you 
 have a Crofs fet up , to lignifie that it is Catho- 
 lick belonging to the Canton of Friburg', by and 
 by in another Village, a high flag with the pi- 
 cture of a Bear in it, to ft gnifie that it belongs 
 to the Canton of Berne , and is Brotejlant: and 
 yet they live civilly and neighbourly together 
 without quarrelling about Religion. 
 
 PalTing thus along, I came to Soleur (Solo- 
 tumum in Latin) a neat Town and Head of a 
 Canton. They are all Catholicks here : and 
 here it is that the French Embajjadors to the 
 SwiJJers , always refid e, as the Spanijh Embaffa- 
 dcurs do at Lucerna. This Town is very an- 
 tient, as the Golden Letters upon the Clock 
 teftifie ; for thofe words make Soleur to be only 
 'younger than her Sifter Trevors, which as Li- 
 nens Sylvius writes, was built 1 3 00 years before 
 Rome. As for Soleur , I find in good Chromlogers 
 that it was built 2030 years after the Creation 
 of the World. 
 
 From Soleur I went to Murat , a little Town 
 famous for a great Battle fought hard by it, 
 bv the Duke of Burgundy and the Swifj'ers. For 
 the Duke of Burgundy befieging Murat , the 
 SwiJJers came upon him with a great Army, 
 
 and ; 
 
fart I. Clje Slopnge Of ITALY. 35 
 
 and defeated him. I was told here, that the 
 Duke feeing his Army defeated , and himfelf 
 environed on one fide by the Lake here * and 
 on the other fide, by the Enemies conquering Ar- 
 my , chofe rather to truft himfelf to the Lak e 
 than to his Enemies. Whereupon fpuring his 
 Horfe into the Lake, one of his Pages, to fave xh Lake 
 himfelf alfo, leaped up behind him, as he took of Murat, 
 Water. The Duke out of fear either percei- 
 ved him not at firft , or diffembled it till he 
 came to the other fide of the Lake, which is two 
 miles broad : The ftout Horfe tugged through 
 with them both, and faved them both from 
 drowning, but not both from death For the 
 Duke feeing in what danger his Page had put 
 him, ftabbed the Page with his Dagger. Poor 
 Prince! thou mighteft have given an other of- 
 fering of Thankf-giving to God for thy efcape 
 than this ; nay, thou mighteft have been as ci- 
 vil as thy Horfe , and have (pared him , whom 
 Beafts and Waves had faved : At leaft by that 
 means , thou mighteft have faved thy own 
 Honour by fav-ing that poor Page, who 
 offended, rather out of fear of death, than out 
 of malice : and thereby thou mighteft have 
 truly faid , that thou hadft not loft all thy 
 Men in that Battle. But Paffion is a blind thing : 
 
 Nothing is fo dangerous to Man a? Man ; and 
 as I obferved above, we are never in greater 
 danger, than when we think we are paft danger. 
 
 The Bones of the Burgundians (lain in this Bat- 
 tle , arefeen in a great Chapel, which ftands a 
 little diftant from the Town, and upon the 
 D z Road? 
 
 i 
 
3 6 Clje (LTcpage ef ITALY. Part I. 
 
 Road, with an infcription upon it touching the 
 time and circumftances of this Defeat. 
 
 From Murat I made towards Zuric , a head 
 Town alto of a Canton. It hands moft fweetly 
 upon a Lake , whofe Cryftalline Waters would 
 delight any body elfe but Swijfers. They are 
 all here Swinglians , and when Mare[hal D' EJtre’e 
 the French EmhajJ’adour to Rome , palled that 
 way, and lodged at the great Inn of the Sword , 
 as he was combing his head one morning in his 
 Combing cloth, with his Chamber Window o~ 
 pen , tome of the Towns-Men, who faw him 
 ("from another oppofite Window) putting on 
 that combing cloth, and thinking it had been 
 a Prieft putting on the Amice, and veiling him- 
 felfforto fay Mafs before the EmhajJ'adour in 
 his Chamber, began with a Dutch clamour to 
 ftir up the People to a Mutiny about the Em- 
 baftadours Houfe, and to call for the PrieJI, 
 that was faying ofMafs : The Embafiadour at 
 firft, not underftanding the caufe of this uproar 
 about his houfe , ran down with Sword in hand, 
 ancHrrhis combing cloth, to check the firft: Man 
 that fhould dare to enter his Lodgings: but un- 
 derftanding at laft, that his combing cloth had 
 caufed this jealoufie , he laughed at their 
 Folly, and retired away contented. 
 
 The beft things to be feen in Zuric are thefe. 
 i. The neat ArfenaJ furnifhed with ftore of 
 fair Cannons and Arms of all forts. 2. The great 
 Library , but in this much lefs efteemed by me, 
 becaufe a Woman had the Key of it , and let us< 
 in to fee it. This piece of faKe Latin at the en- 
 trance, difgufted me with all that I faw there. 
 
Part I. €fje (Hottfge Of ITALY. 37 
 
 and made me haften out quickly : Good Libra- 
 ries fhould not fall en quenouille. 
 
 3. The Wheels which draw up Water from 
 the Lake of themfelves, and empty it into fe- 
 veral Pipes , and fo convey it all over the 
 Town. 
 
 4. The publick great Drinking Halt , where 
 there are a world of little Tables for Men of 
 feveral Corporations or Trades to meet at,' 
 and either talk there of their Bufinefs, or make 
 drinking their Bufinefs. Over every Table 
 hangs the fign of each Trade; as a Lafi for 
 Shoomakers , a Saddle for Sadlers, a Sword for 
 Cutlers, &c. There is a great Bell that rings 
 to this Metting-place every day at two a clock, 
 and when 1 heard fo folemn a ringing , I t hought 
 it had been to fbme Church- Devotion , not to 
 a drinking Aifembly. 
 
 From Zuric I went by Water, that is upon 
 the Lake , a whole days Journey, and paifed A loiI Z 
 under a Bridge of Wood which croffed quite o- Brld ^' 
 ver the Lake for two miles. Its entertained at 
 the coft of the King o £ Spain , topafs theSoul- 
 diers which he often raifeth in the adjacent 
 Countries. 
 
 From hence I went to Coire, or Cear , th e Coins. 
 head Town of the Grifons. The Bifhop and 
 the Clergy of the great Church , with fbme 
 few other living within the Precin&s of the 
 Cloifter of the great Church , are Catholicks, 
 and perform their Devotions in the Church 
 without controul : the reft of the Inhabitants 
 are Swinglians , and poffefs the Town ; yet they 
 fuifcr the Biihop and his Clergy to. live quiet- 
 D 3 ly 
 
38 Ci)C fllopage Of ITALY. Part I. 
 
 S. Luciua 
 the fir)} 
 Chriftian 
 
 £j*g- 
 
 Thn'M- 
 
 line. 
 
 Mount 
 
 Berlin. 
 
 ly in the midft of them. They fhewed me 
 here in this Church, divers fine Reliques, efpe- 
 cially the Head (enchafed in Silver ,) of ©ur 
 antient Britijh King Luchts , the firft Chriftian 
 King that ever made profeffion of Chriftian 
 Religion,and the firft who helpt to plant it here. 
 The antient Church Office here relates all this , 
 as their Books fhewed me. 
 
 From the Grifons I went to the Country of 
 the Faltahne ; a Country fubjed to the Grifons 
 and keeping its fidelity to them, even when it 
 would not have wanted aftlftance from Spam 
 and Italy, if it would have been falfe to its Su- 
 periors the Grifons under the colour of Reli- 
 gion ; thole of the Fait aline being all Catholicks, 
 and their Soveraigns the Grifons, Calvinifis. In 
 a little Town of the Grifons (called Herberga) 
 I was fhewed a Cheefe (and given to taft of it 
 too) by mineHoft, the Mayor of theTown, a 
 Cahjinif in Religion, and a Venerable old Man 
 who allured me ferioully, that that Cheefe 
 was an hundred years old : a Venerable Cheefe 
 indeed. 
 
 Between thele two Countries of the Grifons 
 and the Fait aline, ftands the great Hill Berlino : 
 over which I palled ; and fell from thence upon 
 Tofciavo, a little Bourg, and fo to our Ladies of 
 Tirana a neat Church with a fair Inn hard by 
 it. 
 
 Others, to avoid the Snow of Berlino , are 
 forced now and then (as I was once) to pafs o- 
 M splug . ver Mountain Sffiug, which is Hill enough 
 for any T raveller. 
 
 From 
 
Part I. €f)f fiJopace cf ITALY. 39 
 
 From our Ladies of Tirano I went up a Mount 
 fmart Hill called Mount Amigo, and lb making ^J^kes 
 towards the Lake of Wallin ft ade , 1 palled it o- \y a ui n<1 
 ver in Boat ; as I did alfo foon after, that of/- ftade, and 
 fee ; and fo fell into the Territories of Brefcia in Ifee. 
 
 Italy , belonging to the ftate of Venice. 
 
 My fourth Voyage. 
 
 M Y fourth Voyage into Italy was from Ly- 
 ons again and Geneva, where I now took 
 the Lake on my left hand, and paffing along 
 the skirts of vavoy, 1 came to Boveretta, a little 
 Village ; and fo to Saint Maurice the firft Town s. Maurice. 
 in the Valefians Countrey : This Town is fo cal- 
 led from St. Maurice the brave Commander of 
 the Theban Legion , in the primitive times, and 
 who was martyred here for the profelfion of 
 Chriftian Religion, together with his 1 whole 
 Legion. Hence an Abbey was built here by Sigifi 
 mond, King of Burgundy, and called S. Maurice , 
 
 Now , this Country is called the Country of ^ 
 the Valefians , from the perpetual Valley in T f\f J ' k * 
 which it lyeth.The People have for their Prince ^ 
 the Bifhop of Sion, the cheif Town of the Coun- 
 try. Their Valley is above four days Journey 
 long, befides their Hills, which are two more ; 
 
 Molt of their little Towns and Villages hand 
 upon Hillfides leaving all the plain Country, 
 for Tillage and Pafturage. Their Houles are 
 low and dark, many of them having no Win- 
 dows, and the reft very little ones. Sed cafa fur- 
 naces Curios angufia tcgebat. As for the people 
 D 4 here, 
 
40 mt Voyage Of ITALY. Part I, 
 
 here, they are all Catholicks , fincere honeft 
 Men, of flout Courage, yet of innocent lives, 
 much fnow quenching their Luff , and high 
 Mountains Having off from them all luxe and 
 Vanity, the harbingers of Vice. They have 
 fhort hair on their Heads , but Beards in Folio : 
 they are got fo far into the grande mode , as to 
 wear Breeches and Doublets ; but that’s all : for 
 ptherwife their Cloths look as if they had been 
 made by the Taylors of the old Patriarchs ; or 
 as if the fafhion of them had been taken out of 
 old Hangings and Tapiflry. In fine, both 
 Men and Women here are great and maffive, 
 and not eafily to be blown away : fo that I may 
 juftly fay of this People, as Cardinal Bentivoglio 
 fajd of th zSwiffers that they are good for th tAl* 
 pf *,and the Alpes for them.One thing I obferved 
 particularly in this windy Country, which is, 
 that they have many natural Fools here, which 
 makes me think it no . vulgar errour , 
 which is commonly faid, that the climates that 
 are moil agitated with Winds produce more 
 
 Theh Fools,than other Climates do. 
 
 Strength. As f° r ^ ie ^ r ft ren gth, upon a defenfive occa- 
 • * fion, they can affemble forty thousand men to- 
 gether under their know Commanders, who 
 are often times the Inn-keepers, in whole houfes 
 we lodge ; but out of their own Pit they are 
 not to be feared , having neither fpirits , nor fi- 
 news, that is, neither ambition, nor money to 
 caifyon a foreign War. 
 
 From 
 
Part T. Cfje (Homage of ITALY. 41 
 
 From S. Maurice I went to Martigni , a great Martignt. 
 Inn in a poor Village , and from thence to 
 Sion. 
 
 Sion ( antiently Sedunum ) is the cheif Town Sion. 
 of the Country , and Hands in the Center of it. 
 
 Here the Bifhop , who is Prince, refideth with 
 his Chapter and Cathedral on one Hill, and his 
 Caftle Hands on another Hill hard by .The Court 
 of this Prince is not great , becaufe of his , and 
 his Peoples quality. A good Bifhop hathfome- 
 thing elfe to do, than to be courted , and good 
 plain People muH follow their Trades, not r ^ 
 Courts. This Prince hath no Guards , be- Guards of 
 caufe no fears: a nd. if dangers fhould threat -a Prince 
 en him , his people , whofe Love is his only 
 Arfenal , have hands enough to defend him. So Plus tuta ~ 
 that the Prince and People, that is, .the Body tur amor ‘ 
 Politick of this State, feemed to me like the Bo- 
 dy natural in man, where the Soul and the Body 
 being Friends together, the Soul dire&s the Bo- 
 dy, and the Body defends the Soul. 
 
 From Sion Iwent to Lucia y but lodged a quar - LllcliX - 
 ter of a mile from the Town; and from thence 
 I reached Briga at nighjt. 
 
 Briga is a little Village Handing at the foot Briga. 
 of great Hills;where having reHed well all night 
 at the Colonels houfe ( the beH Inn here ) we 
 began the next morning to clime the Hills for a 
 BreakfaH. For the fpace of three Lours our 
 Horfes eafed us , the afcent not being fo furly 
 as we expected from fo rugged a brow of Hills: 
 but when we came to the lteep of the Hill it 
 felf, Mount Sampion y ( onepf the great Stair-cafes Mount 
 of Italy) we were forced to comp! ment our Sm P lon ' 
 
 Horfes, 
 
42 %l)t aopage Of ITALY. Part I. 
 
 Horfes, and go a foot. It was towards the ve- 
 ry beginning of Ottober when we paflfed that 
 way, and therefore found that Hill in a good 
 humour ; other wife it’s froward enough. Ha- 
 ving in one hours time crawled up the deep of 
 the Hill , we had two hours more riding to the 
 Village and Inn of Sampion : where arriving, 
 we found little meat for our great Stomachs 
 and cold comfort for all the hot dincking 
 Stove. 
 
 At lad, having paid for a Dinner here, though 
 we (aw nothing we could eat, we were the 
 lighter in Purfe, as well as in Body , to walk 
 well that afternoon, rather than that after-Dim 
 ner. To defcribe you the rough way we had 
 between Sampion and Devedra , down Hill al- 
 ways, or fetching about Hills upon a narrow way 
 artificially made out of the fide of thole Hills, 
 and fometimes (licking out of them, as if it had 
 been plaftered to them , were able to make 
 my Pen ake in Writing it, as well as my Legs 
 in walking it. And here 1 found the Proverb 
 falfe, which (ait h, That its good walking with a 
 Horfe in ones Hand : for here we could neither 
 ride, nor lead our Horfes fecurely, but either 
 the one or the other were in danger of (lumb= 
 ling, that is, of falling five hundred Fathom 
 deep. For here as well as in War, femel tan- 
 , turn peccatur , a Man need but (tumble once for 
 all his life-time : Yet by letting our Horfes go 
 loofe with the Brid'e on their necks , and ma- 
 king a Man go before each Horfe, lead they 
 fhould jumble one another down, as 1 once faw 
 the like done by Horfes in SwiJJerland , we arri- 
 
Part I. (Uopflge Of ITALY. 43 
 
 ved fafely at Devedra that night. Y ou would Devedra. 
 do well alfo to light from horfe at the going 
 overall the little trembling Bridges of Wood 
 which you will find there, remembring the Ita- 
 lian Proverb , which faith ; Quando tu Vedi un 
 Ponte , falli honore che tu non fai a un Con - 
 
 te. 
 
 Having repofed all night in the Houle of the Domo&o* 
 Signor Cafiellano , we went the next morning/ 6 '^* 
 to Domodofcela a little Garrifbn Town of the 
 State of Milan , troublefome enough to Tra- 
 vellers that pafs from Milan this way, and car- 
 ry Piftols and Guns without Licence. 
 
 From Domodofcela we palled through a fine^^^i. 
 plain Country to Marguzzi , a little Village UVq m ^ 
 ftanding upon the Lake Major ( antiently called j or . 
 
 Lacrn Verbanm) where making our bargain with 
 our Boat-men to carry us in one day from 
 thence to Sefto , and keep aloof off from the 
 command of all the Cafties, which now and 
 then warn Boats to come in ; and under pre- 
 tence of fearching them for Merchandife, Itop 
 Paffengers till they have fcrewed apiece of 
 Money out of them . 
 
 Arriving fafe at Sefio that night, we took Seflo. 
 Coach the next day tor Milan, and Dining at civiu 
 Civ it a Cafiellanza, arrived betimes at that great CafielUn^ 
 Town which' was called antiently Altera Roma ^ 
 a fecond Rome. 
 
 My 
 
44 
 
 Mount Ai- 
 guebellet . 
 
 Chxmbery . 
 
 c^e Oopage Of ITALY. Part I. 
 
 My Fifth Voyage. 
 
 M Y Fifth Voyage into Italy was ft ill from 
 Lyons, but now by the way of Mount Ce- 
 nts, and Turin , the ordinary Poll: road, and I 
 think the eafieft way of all the reft. 
 
 Parting then from Lyons onHorie-back > we 
 paffed through Verptllier, La Tour du Tin , Beau - 
 voy/in, (w hole Bridge Parts France, and Savoy) 
 and came in two days to the foot of Mount 
 Aiguebellet, the threfheld of the Alpes : This 
 is a pretty breathing Hill , and may be called, 
 the Alpes foul o'uer , or the Alpes in a running 
 hand , and not in that fair Text-hand which I 
 found Mount Cents to be in. It hath all the linea- 
 ments and fhapes of the great Alpes ; that is, 
 much winding and turning , deep precipices, 
 Marons, or Men with little open Chairs, to car- 
 ry you up and down the Hill for a Crown , 
 and much ftumbling work. In fine, this Hill 
 refembles Mount Cents , as a proper Man may 
 do a Giant. 
 
 Having paflcd this Hill, and by it through 
 the very clouds, we fell as it were out of the 
 Skies, upon Chamhery the chief Town of Savoy , 
 and where the 'Parliament refides. 
 
 We caft to be there at the fblemn Entry ; 
 which this Duke made for his new Spoufe , the 
 third Daughter of the late Duke ofOr/^m,when 
 Ihe came firft into this Country. To defcribe 
 all the Triumphal Arches in the Streets, wi h 
 
 their 
 
Part I. Clje flJopage of ITALY. 4$ 
 
 their Emblems and Mottos rarely painted ; the The En ~ 
 ftately throne a little out of the Town , where p^{ h ef s 
 the Duke zndDutchefs received the complements c y Sav0 y* 
 of their Subje&s ; the rich Liveries of the young 
 Townfrnen on horfeback ; the. gallantry of the 
 Noblemen and Gentlemen of the Country ( 800 in 
 all) with their horfes as fine as they : the Parlia- 
 ment men , and other officers of Jufiice all in 
 black Velvet Gowns; the Clergy and Religious 
 marching in the mean time humbly a foot and 
 in Proceflion ; the Dukes two Companies of 
 Horlein Velvet Coats of Crimfon colour em- 
 broidered with Gold and Silver; the Pages 
 and Footmen of the Duke and Dut chefs in Crim- 
 fon Velvet laid thick with Gold and Silver lace; 
 in fine , the Duke and Dutcbefs on Horfeback as 
 brillant as the Sun , would fill a Book alone, 
 which I have no mind to do, feeing there is one 
 extant already in a juftVolume. 
 
 Leaving then Chambery the next day after 
 the Shew , we went to Montmelian to dinner. Montme- 
 This is a ftrong Cafile upon a high Rock , over- lim ‘ 
 looking the River j [fere , and commanding the jy sre ^ 
 palfage here which is ftreight between theHills. 
 
 The ftrength of this Cafile appeared, when -it 
 withftood the Royal Army of Lewis the XIII. of 
 France for fifteen months , and made him raife 
 the Siege when he had done. Here is it ill a 
 ftrong Garrifon in it , and ftore of Ammunition, 
 and all things neceffary for the defence of a 
 ftrong Place. They ftiewed us in it their deep 
 Well for freih Water in the midft of a high 
 Rock ; their excellent Pieces of Artillery , one 
 of which is (aid to carry four miles , that is , to 
 
 Fort 
 
4 6 
 
 Aiguebelle. 
 S. John 
 Morion. 
 Lafne- 
 bourg. 
 
 Mount Ce- 
 nt*. 
 
 €fje Clovage Of ITALY. Part L 
 
 Fort Burreau , h little Fort belonging to France , 
 which is two Leagues from hence , and which 
 you fee from this Caftle. 
 
 From Montmelian we had rough way to Ai- 
 guebeUe ; thence to S. John Morian y to S. Michel , 
 and at laft to Lafmbourg , which ftands at the 
 foot of Mount Cents , the higheft of all the Hills 
 I paffed over in my feveral Voyages into Italy , 
 or out of it ; to wit , Sampion , Berlin , Splug , 
 and S. Godarde . 
 
 This Hill of Mount Cents parting Savoy and 
 Italy , fhall be the place where I will now be- 
 gin my Defer ipt ion of Italy , having hitherto 
 only deferibed the feveral Ways into it. 
 
 The Defcription and Voyage 
 of Italy. 
 
 A Rriving then , as I laid before, at the foot 
 of Mount Cents , antiently called Cinifum y 
 and refting all night at Lafnebourg , we agreed 
 with the Marons , to carry us up the Hill , and 
 and down the Hill , as alfo over the Plain , and 
 in fine, all the way to Novalefe itfelf. All this 
 is to beexpreffed in your bargain with them, 
 otherwife they will cavil with you, and make 
 you go over the Plain a foot. The price is, a 
 Spanifh Pifiol for every Man that’s carried. 
 Thofe that are ftrong and vigorous , ride up 
 upon Mules, and walk down afoot. 
 
Part I. €fje (Hopnge of ITALY. 47 
 
 We began to mount at our going out of our 
 Inn at Lajnehourg , and having paffed by' La 
 Ramaffa, (where men are ported down the 
 Hill upon the Snow in Sledges with great Ce- 
 lerity and Pleafure) after two hours tugging of 
 our Chairmen , or Marcus, we came to the top 
 of the Hill, and a little after to the Pofthoufe ; 
 and the little Hofpital upon the plain ; Thence 
 paffing by the Chapel of the Tranfts (that is, 
 of thofe who are found dead of cold in the 
 Snow, and are buried here) we came to the 
 great Crofs and 'tavern, where we began to de- 
 fcend. This Hill of Mount Cents is four miles 
 in the going up, four miles upon the Plain, and 
 two in its delcent to Novalefe. 
 
 Arriving about noon at Novalefe we dined, Novriefe., 
 horled, and went that night to Sufa. 
 
 Sufa, antiently Segefium , is a ftrong Town, Sufa. 
 and one of the Gates of Italy. For this realbn, 
 the French in their late long W ar with Spain , 
 kept it a long time in their hands, as well as 
 Pignerola , which they Hill keep upon Treaty, 
 to let them into Italy when they have a mind. 
 
 Its ftrength confifts wholly in a Cattle built 
 upon a high Rock clofe to the Town, and 
 commanding all the palfage betwixt the two 
 Mountains. This Town is famous in the I af- 
 ter Hi ft ory, for the fmart Adion of the French, 
 when they beat down the twelve feveral Bar- 
 riers , whereby the Duke of Savoy thought to 
 have choaked their Palfage. This adionis fa- Ie f 
 mous in Hiftory, by the name of le pas de Sufe.^jy " d 
 Here at Sufa begins Piedmont \ Piedmont* 
 
 From 
 
48 (Ilopagc Of ITALY. L'ari I. 
 
 s - Ambrc- From Sufa we went to S. Ambrofio , and paf- 
 Ik ^ Rivolle , a fine Houfe of the Dukes, ftand- 
 
 ™ vo e ' ' ing in a good Air, and at night we came to 
 
 Turin . 
 
 Turin . Turin , antiently called August a Taurinorum , 
 
 is fituated in a plain, '*iear the foot of the Hills 
 The ziver and upon the Banks of the River To , which 
 Po * begins here to be Navigable, and from hence 
 carries Boats to Ferrara , Chiofa and Venice. This 
 To is a noble River, and very large in feme 
 Petrus as. places, efpecially a little below Ferrara ; yet 
 Pomualdoy 1 have read that in a great drouth which hap- 
 Cro.to. 1. pened in the year of the world 2470. it was 
 dryed up and rendered innavigable. 
 
 The Duke This Turin is the Seat of one of the greateft 
 of Sav©y\r Trinces in Italy , the Duke of Savoy , and Prince 
 Tides and. of Piedmont , who is alfo treated with the title 
 ' ofAltezza Reale , and Vicario Generale del Imperio 
 in Italic. This houfe of Savoy , which now go- 
 verns here , came antiently from Siguardo , 
 King of Saxony , in the year of Chrift 636. and 
 hath conferved it felf ever fince, that is , for a 
 thoutand and odd years in a continual feries of 
 Heroical Princes , whofe Pedegree was never 
 vitiated nor interrupted by any degenerate Off 
 Ipring. Five Emperors , and four Kings have 
 iifued out of this houfe. 
 
 Antiently the Dukes of Savoy kept their 
 Court at Chambery , or elfe at Bourg en Brejfe , 
 a Country now belonging to France , upon ex- 
 change with the Marquifat of Salu&zo ; as ma- 
 ny of r their Tombs curioufly cut in Marble, 
 in the Auguftins Church there yet fliew. It 
 was Amadeo , the V. of that name , Duke of 
 
Part L m t of If ALf. 4 
 
 Savoy, that transferred the Court to Turin. It ' 
 was alfo this Amadeo, who in memory of. his 
 Grandfather Amadeo the IV, Who had defended 
 Rhodes fo bravely, inftituted the Knighthood of. 
 the Annunciata , with this fmgle motto in the 
 Collar of the Order F. E. R. T. fignifying, that 
 Fortitudo.Ejus Rhodum Tenuit. 
 
 T^epubfefts of this Prince are laid to be a- H* s ‘ub+ 
 bout ^eighteen hundred thoufand fouls. His ^ Ccun ’ 
 whole Country w\\hPiedmwt and all, is judged to trjgs ^ ~ 
 be two hundred miles long, and fifty broad, tent. 
 
 His Forces thirty three thoufand Foot, and five His? ones. 
 thoufand Horfe : and his Revenues to be about h^evhmes, 
 a rniUwt of Crowns, befides what he can now 
 and then raife out of that fat Country of Pied- 
 mont His Inters ft is, to keep well with France , H r ** Int 
 and not fall out with Spain. . re ^‘ 
 
 As for the Town it felf oITurin , it’s almoft The Town 
 fquare;and hath fourGatesin it, a ftrong Cittadel of Tuna. 
 With five Baftionstoit ; it’s well Furnifhed with 
 good provifions in the Market ; it hands in 2 
 fat foil, which makes it a little .too dirty iri. 
 
 Winter ; and it is an Univerfity, . The thirds 
 
 The chief things which I faw "here , wer£ robe feed . 
 thefe. ; in Turin. 
 
 i. The Domo, or Great Church •, in which r j r Mo ] f 
 is kept with great Devotion the Holy Syndon , in syndvn, ' 
 which, our Saviour's Body was wound up and 
 buried : of the Verity, of this Relick fee, Bdrorii? 
 
 Tfs in his Ecclefiajtical Hijtory ad an. 34. num. 138. 
 
 It’s kept in a Chapel over the High Altar,, and 
 fhovvn publickly upon certain days, and prh 
 vateljr to EmbaJJadors and Prelates as they pafs 
 that Way ; T he late Dutchcfs^Madame ChriJtJana* 
 
 .it ■ E be^ah 
 
50 €i )t ^Lovm Of ITALY. Parti. 
 
 began to make a fine Chapel for to keep it in, but 
 it was not quite finifhed when I paffed that way 
 laft. The Chapel is all of black Marble, ador- 
 ned with ftately black Marble Pillars : indeed 
 winding Sheets (filch as this Relick isj are things 
 of mourning , and are belt fet out in a mourn- 
 ing way. 
 
 TheCitu - 2. The Cittadelle (landing at the back of the 
 
 delk. Town, and keeping it in awe. This Duke and 
 his Mother found the convenience of this Cit- 
 tadelle , when by Fa&ions within the Town 
 againft them, they were forced to this Citta- 
 delle, and there weather it out ftoutly, ftill fuc- 
 cour coming to them from France , made them 
 Mafters again of the Town, and their Enemi- 
 es. 
 
 The 3. The Duke’s new Palace handfcmly built 
 
 lace. with a fair Court before it, a great Piaz,za , and 
 a large open ftreet leading up it. The Cham- 
 bers are fair, and hung with hangings of Cloth of 
 Tyjjue, of a new and rich Fabrick, with rich em- 
 broidered Beds, Chairs, Stools, Cloth of State, 
 and Canopies.The Dutcheftes Cabinet, the curious 
 Bathing place above, hung round with the true 
 The Ba- Pift ures in Little, of the prime Ladies of Europe, 
 thing place. The curious invention for the Dutchefs to con- 
 vey her felf up from her Bed-Chamber to that 
 Bathing-Room, by a Pully and a fwing, with 
 great eafe and fafety : the great Hall painted 
 curioufly: the Noble ft air-Cafe: the old long 
 h . Gallery 100 paces long, with the Pictures in it 
 Gallery. °fthe Princes and Princejjes of the HoUfe of Sa- 
 voy , with the Statues of the antienf Emperours 
 and Philofophers in marble, with a rare Library 
 
 locked 
 
Part L age Of ITALY. j j 
 
 locked up in great Cupboards , are the chief 
 Rooms and Ornaments of this Palace. I (aw 
 al(o the Apartiments or Lodgings of the old 
 Dut chefs, Madame Chriftiana , which jbyn to the 
 old G*//ery, and in her Cabinet I faw many choice 
 Pictures. 
 
 4. The New-ftreet , which runneth from th &the New* 
 Palace to the Piazza Reale , is a fair ftreet, and^ wf * 
 built uniformly. The (hops below afford great 
 conveniency to the Towns-men, and the fair 
 lodgings above to the Noblemen and Cour- 
 tiers. 
 
 5\ The Piazza Re ate is built handfomely up- r^Piajza 
 on Pillars , like our Covent Garden : and is full^- ea ^ e * 
 of nothing elfe but Noblemens Houfes. 
 
 6. The AuguHins Church , called S. Carlo , The Au- 
 Handing in this Piazza , adorns it much, being guftir;$ 
 a peat Church, and the beft contrived that I Chunk. 
 fav^m this Town. 
 
 7. The Capuchins Church upon a hill oiit of the 
 Town, is above the rate of Capuchins : but you 
 muft know who gave it* not who have it.From 'clunk. 
 hence I hadaperfed view of Turin, with the 
 Country about it. 
 
 8. Sortie three miles out of the Town, I 
 
 faw a neat houfe of the Dukes, called L* LaVcne ^ 
 Venery Royals The Court fet round withjy Ro va* 
 Staggs-Heads ; the Chambers full of good Pi- i e . 
 dures ; the Hall painted with great Pidures 
 ofthe Duke, his Mother, his Sifters , and other 
 Ladies all on Horfeback,as if they were going a 
 Hunting ; the Place where they keep Pheafants , 
 Partridges , and other fuch like Birds ; the Stable 
 E % for- 
 
52 
 
 La Valen- 
 tine. 
 
 From Tu- 
 rin to Ge- 
 noa. 
 
 dje Clopage of ITALY. Part i. 
 
 for too Horfe, and the neat Dogkennel are the 
 belt things.tobe feen in thisHoufc. 
 
 9. On the other fide of the Town, about a 
 mile off, I taw the old Dutchefles Houfe, called 
 La Valentine. It ftands pleafantly upon the 
 Banks of Po y and is adorned with great variety 
 of Pidures. In five or fix Rooms, on the right 
 hand of the Houfe, they (hewed me a world 
 of Pidures of all forts of Flowers : on the left 
 hand, as many of all forts of Birds, with other 
 Pidures curioufly painted. The four Pidures 
 reprefenting the four Elements , with all that 
 belongs to them : as all the Birds that fly in the 
 Air ; all the Beafls that are found upon the 
 Earth ; all the fifijes and Jhells, that are found in 
 the Water ; and all things that belong to Fire , 
 are fo curioufly painted in their feveral particu- 
 lar (hapes and colours, that thefe four Piecesare 
 an abridgment of all Nature, and the admiration 
 of all that behold them. There are fome other 
 good Pieces here too; as the Magdalen fallen into 
 an eeftafie ; the rapt of the Sabins y and divers 
 others. 
 
 The other Houfes about the Town; as Mil- 
 lefleur , belonging to the Duke ; the Villa of the 
 Princefs Mary ; with divers others which (hew 
 themfelves upon the Hill fide, are very (lately, 
 and worth feeing. 
 
 Having thus feen Turin , we left the ordinary 
 Road, which leads to Milan, to wit by the way 
 of Vercelle and Novara y twoftrong Towns, fron- 
 tier to one another, through which I palfed m 
 another Voyage; and to avoid two Armies 
 which lay in the way, chofe to fleer towards 
 
 Genoa 
 
Parti. Cfjedo^poflTALY. <53 
 Genoa by the low way of Savona. And paffing 
 through a melancholy Country, by Altare and 
 other little Towns for the (pace of three days, 
 
 We came at laft to Savona. 
 
 Savona fantiently called Sab at ia or Sab at ium) savom, 
 is the fecond Town, or eldeft Daughter of Ge- 
 noa ; and like a good daughter indeed fhe ftands 
 always in her Mothers Prefence, yet keeps her 
 diftance : it being within fight of Genoa, yet ; 
 live and twenty miles off. It ftands upon the 
 Mediterranean Sea, or, as they call it here, upon 
 the Riviera di Genoa . It’s fortified both by Art 
 and Nature , that is, by regular Fortifications to r 
 wards the Sea, and by lufty Appennine Hills to- 
 wards the Land. Yet whiles* Savona feared no 
 danger from either Sea or Land, it was almoft: 
 ruined in the year 1648 by Fire from Heaven, 
 to wit, Lightning ; which falling upon a great 
 'Tower in the midft of the Town, where Gun- 
 powder was kept, blew it up upon a fiudden, 
 and with it threw down two hundred Houfes 
 round about it, and Houfes of note. For, paf 
 fing that way fix months after , and walking a- 
 mong the Ruins, I faw in many of the Houfes, 
 which were but half fallen down, curious pain- 
 ted Chambers , and fine guilt Roofs, which 
 (hew’d me of what Houfe many of thefe Hou- 
 fes had been : and of what weak defence gilt 
 Roofs and painted Walls are againft the Ar- 
 tillery of Heaven, Thunder and Light- % 
 ning. 
 
 This Town is famous in Hiftcry for the intern 
 view of two great Kings here , to wit , Lewis 
 the XII of France , and Ferdinand King of Naples.. 
 
 E 3 This 
 
£4 (Homage Of ITALY. Part L 
 
 Thi^ interview paffed with demonftrations of 
 mutual civilities , not ordinary in interviews of 
 Princes. For Lewis feared not to go into the 
 Galliesand Ships of Ferdinand without Guards 
 and unarmed : and Ferdinand remained for ma- 
 ny days together in this Town belonging then 
 to Lewis, whom he had lately ftript of the King- 
 dom of Naples ; and beaten him to boot in a 
 Battel. 
 
 Of this Town were Julius Secundus and Sixtus 
 Quart us , two Topes of the Houfe of Roueri : and 
 two great Cardinals , Veter , and Raphael Ria - 
 rii. 
 
 Embarking at Savona in a Feluca , we rowed 
 along the Shoar ('called la Riviere di Genoa ) un- 
 to Genoa it felf ; and all the way long we (aw 
 u Riviera a continual Suburbs of (lately Villas &cVil- 
 ii Genoa. lages , that thele (bantlings make us in love with 
 the whole Piece it (elf, Genoa. I confefs, I ne- 
 ver faw a mqre (lately abord to any City than 
 to this : and if we had not had Genoa full in our 
 fight all the way long , we (hould have taken 
 fome of thefe (lately Villages for Genoa it felf ; 
 and have imitated Hofimgus the Leader of the 
 Normans , who coming into Italy about the year 
 £6o witha greatArmy^and findingL««a(a Town 
 jn the Confines of Gptoa ) fo fumptuoufly built, 
 thought really it had been Rome , and thereupon 
 Dmh a taking it , he gloried that he had lacked the 
 0 ^^e World ; Gratatur tenere fe Monar - 
 mcrib. chiam t otitis Imperii , per urhem cpuam putaiat Ro - 
 
 & aL mam, , faith his Hiflorian. 
 
 Norm™. Sailing thus along this plealant Coafl , we 
 came betimes to Genoa . 
 
 Genoa 
 
fart L €lje Clopage Of ITALY. $ 5 
 
 Genoa is one of the cheif Towns that Hands Genoa. 
 upon the Mediterranean Sea , and one of the belt 
 in Italy. The common Italian Proverb calls it , 
 
 Genua la Superba : and if ever I law a Town 
 with its Holy-day clothes always on , it was 
 Genoa. It Hands upon the fide of a Hill , and 
 rifing by degrees , appears to thole that look 
 upon it from the Sea , like an Amphitheater. 
 Heretofore it was only fortified by Marbl ^rhewSiU 
 Bull-works , that is , great Hills of Marble 
 which backt it up : but , lome forty years ago 
 it was environed with new walls , carrying fix 
 miles in compals , and yet finifhed in eighteen 
 Months. 
 
 The Haven heretofore was very unfafe, and The 
 many Ships which had tugg’d through the moH ve>u 
 dangerous Seas abroad , were leen to fink here 
 in the Heaven at home;th*e French , then MaHers 
 of Genoa, not fuffering her to fhutup her Haven, 
 leaH Hie fhould ftiut them out. But fince fhe 
 hath fhaken off the French yoke, fhe hath lock- 
 ed up her Treafures, aid bolted the door on the 
 infide, by that admirable Mola, which crolfing 
 almoH quite over the Bay, or Haven, doth not 
 onlv bolt out all Enemies , but even locks up 
 the boiHerous Sea it felf , and makes it tame in 
 the Haven. It’s a prodigious work, and able to 
 have puzzl’d any two Kings in Europe to have 
 done it. 
 
 At one end of this Mola Hands the Pharos up- 
 on a little rock , with a Lantern upon it , to give T ™ 
 notice , by known figns , what Ships , how ros ’ 
 many, and from what fide they Come : or elfe 
 to guide their own Ships home lafely in the 
 
 E 4 night. 
 
5? 
 
 The City 
 itfelf. 
 
 The 
 
 Streets. 
 
 Strait 
 
 NtrdJt: 
 
 mx&omt of ITALY. 
 
 Part I. t 
 
 night. At firft it was only a little Fort for to 
 help to bridle Genoa , and it was built by Lewis 
 the XII of France. 
 
 As for the Town it fclf of Genoa , it’smoft 
 beautiful to behold : many of the houfes being 
 painted on the outfide , and looking as if they 
 were turned infideout, and ha4 their Arras 
 hangings hung on their outfides. The tops of 
 their houfes are made with open Galleries , , 
 where *the women fit together at work in cluf- * 
 ters , and where alto they dry their hair in the 
 Sun, after they have waffled it in a crtain wafh 
 apurpofe for to make it Yellow , a colour much 
 atfe&ed here by all women. 
 
 The Streets are very narrow ; fo that they 
 qfe here few Coaches , but many Sedans and Lit- 
 ters. This makes the noife in the ftreets lefs , 
 and the expence in the purfe fmaller. But , 
 for. want of ground and earth, they make 
 Heaven pay for it ; taking it out in the height 
 of their houfes , what they want in breadth or 
 length. So that Genoa looked in my eye like 
 a proud , young Lady in a ftrait-body’d flow- 
 er'd Gown , which makes her look tail indeed 
 and fine , but hinders her from being at her eafe, 
 and taking breath freely. 
 
 V Yeti muff except the Strada Nova here, 
 which for a fpirt, furpafleth all the ftreets I 
 ever faw any where elfe for neatnefs and pro- 
 portion ; and, if it had but breath enough to 
 hold out at the fame rate, a little longer, it 
 would be the true Queen -fir eet of Europe :Or- 
 dinary houfes are fo out of countenance here, 
 that they dare not appear in this ftreet, where 
 L - ' • . ‘ there’s 
 
Parti. c&e QXoym Of ITALY. 57 
 
 there’s nothing but Palaces , and Palaces as 
 fine as art and coft, or as Marble and Tainting 
 can make them* 
 
 Having (aid thus much of Genoa in general, I 
 will now come to the particulars that are to be 
 leen in it. 
 
 1. The Domo , or great Church of St. Laurence The Do* 
 prefents it felf to my fight : It’s the Cathedral mo • 
 of the Archbijhop, who, when I pafiTdd that way 
 iaft , was Cardinal Durazzo , a. man of great 
 Vertue and Piety. This Church is of a noble 
 Strufture, all of black and white Marble inter- 
 mingled, and all maffive fquare ftones. In a 
 Chapel over againft the Pulpit , is kept reve- 
 rently an authentick Relick, of St. John Baptif, 
 under the Altar ; and the great Dijh of one E- 
 meraud , in which they fay here that o\xv.Savi- 
 our eat the Tafchal Lamb with * his Eiifciples. 
 
 Both thefe were given to the Genoefi by Bal- 
 dwin King of Hiemjalem , for their great fervice 
 done againft the Turks in the Holy Land. Of ?Zt 
 the Relick of St. John Baptijb , Baronim (peaks % | 
 credibly in his Ecclefiafiical Htflory. But for the . f 
 Di(b of Emeraud , I find no authority for it, % : 
 either in Baronins or any antient Author , that:^ ; dg 
 our Saviour ufed it. Efpecially feeing Venerabh% c ^ n ^ Cm 
 Beda writes , that the Dijh in which our Savf- 2. 
 pur eat the Pafchal Lamb was of Silver . %■ 
 
 2. After the Domo , I faw the Church of Anm 
 
 Annunciata , which draweth up the Lade lefcfynchta. 
 after it for neatnefs. It's ftill in building aftcL? 
 not quite finifhed. It’s thus beautified at iKcf 
 coft of two Brothers , Rich Gentleme&b ;/ - 
 and Merchants of this Town, who al Ww^gmeHni. 
 she third part of their gains to the adorning of 
 : T • ' "this 
 
58 Clje Slopngc of ITALY. Parti. 
 
 this Church. The Roof of it is all gilt, and fet 
 with curious Pictures in Flat found. The Altars 
 round about the Church, are cheeked with ex- 
 quifite Pillars, and adorned with rare Pictures. 
 The two Rows of Vaft Pillars , which hold up 
 the Roof of the Church, are fo beautiful , be- 
 ing of a red and white Marble , that they look 
 like Jafper , and ravi(h the Beholder : They 
 are curioufly wrought and channelled . 
 
 S. Ambro- 3 . The Church of S .Awbrojio, belonging to 
 fi°- the JefuitSy is neatly overcrufted with Marble, 
 and gilt above in the Roof It wants a little 
 length , for want of Room to build on ; it be- 
 ing too near the Doge's Palace, and not daring 
 to advance a ftep farther for fear of treading 
 upon his heels. 
 
 S. Cyro. 4. The Church of the Theattns , called S <Cyro> 
 is very handfome,with its double row of white 
 marble Pillars, which fet it out very gracefully. 
 The Cloifier alfb is very neat, and the Fathers 
 very civil. 
 
 The Pah- The Palaces here are moft fumptuous. Thofe 
 ce5t ‘ ~ of the Strada Nova are the beft ; and the beft of 
 thofe is that of the Prince £ Orta : it’s built upon 
 white round Marble Pillars, which fupport its 
 Galleries , and thofe Galleries let you into noble 
 Rooms adorned with all the Abellimenti of I* 
 t alt an Palaces . The other Palaces too in this 
 Street deferve particular mention in this my 
 defcription of Genoa , and may take it ill 1 fay 
 nothing of them ; but they muft excufemy bre- 
 vity, and impute the fault partly to themfelves ; 
 feeing admirable things are liable to this incon- 
 venience, that they are alfo unexpreflable. 
 
 6. 1 faw 
 
Part i. c&e Qtopage Of ITALY. 59 
 
 6. I law allb the two Palaces of the Signori Tke Mf- 
 Balls, in the Street of the Annunciata. In the 
 
 one whereof (on the left handj I (aw, among 1 1 ‘ 
 
 other rich things, a Looking Glafs , valued at 
 threefcore thoufand Crowns. It’s much of the 
 fize of thofe Looking-glaffes, which Seneca calls 
 fpecula toti corpori paria, that is, as big and brittle 
 as thofe that look themfelves in them. The 
 Frame of it is all of Silver, fet thick with a thou- 
 fand little armed Figures , like Cupids : as if the 
 plain Mirrour of this Looking-Glafs were the 
 plain field where Cupid pitcheth his Tents, and 
 begins his Conquefts over fair Ladies. The 
 round Pillars fet in the Porch of this Houfe, 
 and the Giuochi d ’ acqua in the Garden will 
 make themfelves be taken notice of. 
 
 7. The Palace of the Doge, or biennial Prince The Doge <• 
 here, with the feveral Chambers of Juft-ice, and Palace ‘ 
 the Armory in it, for thirty thoufand men, ought 
 
 to be carefully feen. In one of the great Halls ^ Amc ~ 
 of this Palace, are feen twelve Statues of white ry ' 
 Marble, reprefenting twelve famous Men of 
 this Town, who had rendered great Service to 
 the Common-wealth. In the forefaid Armory 
 you fee a Halbard with two Piftol barrels in 
 the lower end of it. You fee alfo the Armor 
 of the Genoejian Amazons, who went to the War 
 jn the Holy Land , and carried themfelves gal- 
 lantly. Here’s alfo a Cannon of Leather fo light, 
 that a Man may carry it. 
 
 8. But that which is the moft taking in Ge- 
 noa , is that which is out of Genoa ; I mean , the ScLn Pietro 
 ftately Suburbs of San Pietro in Arena , where in Arenl 
 for a mile together , Villa's adorned with Mar- 
 bles, 
 
60 Cfje OopagC Of ITALY. Part I. 
 
 bles , Painting , Statues , Gardens , Arbors of 
 Gelfomin, Orange, and Li mon Trees, Grotts, 
 Ponds , Giuochi'd * Ac qua , Fountains, high 
 Wails , with Shades born up by Marble Pillars, 
 &c. compote , of many Palaces and Gardens, 
 fuch a beautiful La?idskip , that the whole place 
 teemed to me , to be the Charming Paradife of 
 the King of the Mountains antiently ; and I was 
 almoft going to fay , that we durft not blefs 
 our felves , leaft this enchanted place fhould 
 have vanifhed. The belt Villas , or Palaces 
 here, are thole of Hieronymo Negro , and that 
 of the Imperiali : the firft beautified with all the 
 graces of Italian Furniture, as allb with Gardens, 
 Walks, Ponds, Water-Works, Allies, &c. the . 
 other befides all thefe , hath an excellent Pro - 
 fiefl; for theMafter of this Houle can fee out 
 of one Window of it, T welve thoufand Crowns 
 a year ofhis own , only in let Houles. The o- 
 ther Palaces here exped I fhould fay fbme- 
 thing of them, and they deferve it well ; but 
 really to give them their full due, I can only 
 fay this of them, that they ought to be feen by 
 the Eye, not deferibed by the Pen. 
 
 The Villa 9 As y° u return fr° m San Pietro in Arena , 
 of ^ to the Town, not far from the Gates, ftands the 
 Duked* Villa , or Palace of the Duke d? Oria. Irefer- 
 Oria. ved this for the laft, pour fair bonne bouche. It 
 ftands upon the Sea-fide, and its Garden towards 
 the Sea is built upon three Rows of white Marble 
 Rails , born up by white marble Pillars , which a- 
 feending by degrees, is lo beautiful to beholdfrom 
 the Sea, that Strangers palling that way to Ge- 
 noa, take this Garden for a fecond Paradife. In 
 the midft of it Hands the rare Fountain of Nep- 
 tune ^ 
 
6i 
 
 Part T. %\)t (Homage Of ITALY. 
 
 tune , rcprefenting the true looks of brave An- 
 drea D ’ Oria , theJV^prwwe of the Ligurian Sea , and 
 the Man who put his Country out of Livery , 
 and taught it not to (erve. All along one fide 
 of this Garden (lands a Cage of Iron , about a 
 hundred Paces long ; and fo high that it fetcheth 
 in a world of Laurel and other Trees, clad 
 with chirping Birds of feveral forts ; and to 
 make the poor Birds believe that they are ra- 
 ther in a Wood, than in a prifon, the very Cage 
 hath put even the Wood it felf in Prifon. Then 
 entring into the Palace , we found it molt curi- 
 oufly adorned with Rareties and Riches (utable 
 to the Countries Humor,and the Matters Purfe. 
 It’s true, when this Queen of Spain palfed from 
 Germany into Spain, by the way of Milan & Genoa, 
 the Governour of Milan told her, that (he fhould 
 fee in d ’ O/Vs Palace here many fine things, but 
 all borrowed of the Townfmen. Which d ’ Oria 
 hearing of beforehand, caufed to be written over 
 the great Gates of the Palace , where the Queen 
 was to enter and lodge, thefe words in Spanijh , 
 By theGrace of God, and the Kings Favour, there's nc m 
 thing here borrowed. It may be the cunning Gover- 
 nour of Milan thought by telling the Queen this, 
 to oblige the Duke D ’ Oria to prefent fome of 
 his belt things to the Queen , to (hew her that 
 they were his own; as if s (aid , the late Duke 
 of Buckingham did in France , by breaking his Di- 
 amond Hatband among the Court Ladies , who 
 faid hahad only borrows! it ; but , the wife 
 Italian by this trick , both kept his own , and 
 yet fatiitied the Queen. Indeed he hath 
 things here both too good to be given away , 
 
6i 
 
 The Go- 
 vernment. 
 
 st&e GJOpage Of ITALY. Part t 
 
 and too great to be carried away : witnefe thofe 
 rare Silver Tables which are in his Wardrobe , one 
 whereof weigheth Twenty four thoufand pound 
 weight. From the Palace we were led over 
 the Street to his great Garden upon the Hill fide, 
 where all the Graces that can make up a 
 Garden are found. 
 
 As for the Government , Fajhions , Wealth , 
 Strength, and Interefi of Genoa , I found them 
 to be thus : 
 
 Their Government , is Democratical , or Popu- 
 lar , by a Doge (chofen every two years) and 
 eight Senators , who live with him in the Pa - 
 lace , and affift him with their Counfel. The 
 Great Council here , which is the Foundation of 
 the Government, confifts of Four hundred 
 Men chofen indifferently out of all the Families 
 of the Town. Thefe deliberate with the Sig - 
 noria of all things that belong to War or Peace . 
 Antiently , as I hinted before, Genoa was under 
 the French Domination, till Andrea d ’ Oria let it 
 free. Hiftories write of it, that Berengarius the 
 Third , and the Saracens , fo ruined Genoa , that 
 they left it fwimming in its own Blood : which 
 Ruin was forewarned by a Prodigy of a Foun- 
 tain of Blood which ran in the very Streets of 
 Genoa. It had like to have fwam a focond 
 time in its Blood, when Lewis the XII. of 
 France, entering into Genoa viftorioufly with 
 fwordin hand , threatning the utter ruin of that 
 people , was pacified by the mournful cries 
 of four thoufand little Children, who clad in 
 Sackcloth and placed in the great Piazza, cry- 
 ed out to the King in a piercing accent, Miferi* 
 
 cordia 
 
Part I. (UopaffC Of ITALY. <5$ 
 
 cordia e Piet a, Mercy & Pity. But fince Genoa fhook 
 ofthe FrenchYoke , it hath lived perpetually jealous 
 of the French , efpecially fince it difcovered,fome 
 years paft, divers attempts of France againft it, 
 whilft the French had Portolongone and Piom- 
 bino . 
 
 For this reafon, the Genoefi lean much to the rhdr Vi- 
 Spanijh Fattion ; and Fajhions following Fa ft ion, Jhions. 
 they lean alfo much to the Spaniflj Fajlnon both 
 in Humor and Apparel. Hence I found here 
 Broad Hats without Hatbands, broad Leather 
 Girdles with fteel Buckles , narrow Breeches 
 with long-wafted Doublets and hanging-fleeves, 
 to be a la mode , as well as in Madrid. And 
 I found all the great Ladies here to go like the 
 Donnas of Spain in Guar dinf ant as\ that is in horri- 
 ble overgrown Fartingals of Whalebone, which 
 being put about the waft of the Lady , and full 
 as broad on both Tides as fhe can reach with 
 her hands, bear out her Coats in fuch a huffing 
 manner, that (he appears to be as broad as long. 
 
 So that the Men here with their little clofe 
 Breeches looked like Tumblers that leap through 
 th e Hoops: and the Women like thofe that 
 danced antiently the Hobby-horfe in Country 
 Mummings. Twoofthefe Ladies meeting one 
 another in thefe narrow Streets, make as great 
 an Embarras as two Carts of Hay do upon Lon- 
 don-Bridge : and I have feen their Ladiffiips 
 ft rangely puzzled how to juggle themfelves into 
 a narrow Sedan , or Littor : indeed half of rrsjr 
 Lady hangs out. For my part I admire that this 
 jealous Republick doth not fear , leaft fame of 
 thefe Ladies (upon a difguft ) fhould carry a 
 
 let 
 
64 Cije Oopage of ITALY. Parti. 
 
 . fct oF little (hort Guns under her Goats , and 
 under pretence of preferring a Petition to the 
 Senate affembled , give them a Broadfide or two, ?*■ 
 and make a horrible confufion in the Repub lick. 
 
 If all this Bulk of Cloths, which make the Wo* 
 meq here look like Haycocks with Arms and 
 Heads , be allowed them by their wife Hus- 
 bands, to render them more vifible , and left 
 able to go privately into any fufpe&ed Houfes, 
 
 4 it’s good Policy ; otherwife moft certain it is, 
 that the Wives Gowns cheat horribly the Hus- 
 t bands Breeches of almoft all the Stuff. I have 
 Guitfon- only heard (and it was from a Nobleman of Ge- 
 finta fig- noa') of one Lady here that made right ufe of 
 r'hMd 1 thefe Guardinfanta S) and it was fhe, who feeing 
 preferver. h eron ty Son (a young Nobleman of Genoa y about 
 eighteen years old ) already condemned to pri- 
 (on , and ready to be condemned to the Scaffold 
 for a heinous crime, got leave to vifit him in 
 prifon as often as (he pleated ; and at laft , by 
 means of a good Guardinfanta of Steel , in (lead 
 of Whalebone , (he took up her Son under her 
 Coats in that Guardinfanta , and marching out 
 of the prifon gravely , as ihe ufed to do , by 
 leaning upon two antient Women, as theFa- 
 fhion is here for great Ladies to do , fhe car- 
 ried him home fo ; and being there delivered of 
 him a fecond time , without a Midwife , fhe 
 Pent him prefently out of the Country to be 
 nurfed and kept. Thus fhe laved her Families 
 honour.- Was not this a true Guardinfanta 
 which preferved thus the life of a Child? But 
 was not this alfo a Gallant Mother that went 
 with a Child, who was full eighteen years old 
 
 when 
 
Part L %t)Z &0\mt of ITALY. 6 $ 
 
 when his Mother bore him ? The only pity 
 was, that this Gallant Mother had not the hap- 
 pinefs once to be Mother of a Gallant Son, fee- 
 ing (he had had the trouble of bringing forth 
 fucha Son twice. # . W Tkir FU 
 
 As for their Riches , 1 am told they pafs not a ckSt 
 Million and two hundred thoufand Crowns a year. 
 
 Indeed the King of Spain, Philip the II. above 
 a hundred years ago, borrowed of this Repub- 
 lick the fum of eleven Millions, and keeps them 
 ftill in his hands, to keep this Republick in awe ; 
 yet paying the iritereft duly unto them. So 
 that the Common Purfe here, is nothing fo rich 
 as that of Venice, though the particular Men 
 here are far richer than thofe of Venice. They 
 have great Trading both with France and Spain; 
 and are great Banquiers , making the Change in 
 all the Banks of Europe , go as they pleafe. " Be- 
 fides they utter a world of Tajf aides , Velvets , 
 
 Sattins , Points of needle work, and divers o- 
 ther things of Value. 
 
 As for their Strength , it’s enough to defend Their 
 themfelves , fcarce enough to offend others, strength l 
 ■ For Genoa is back’d up by the Apennines , where 
 all paffages are eafily made good again# Inva- 
 ders; and it is fo well fortified oh the other fi de 
 by \hoSea it felf, twelve or fourteen good Gallics , 
 twenty Ships of War, and it’s incomparable Mclo, 
 that they could fciiffle notably in their own de- 
 fence. Betides Genoa is torn tied not only with 
 its.Hills and Sea, but alfo with its new Walls and 
 bull- war k s' of Stone ; nay, and with its Bone-walls 
 too, that is, with a Lacedemonian Wall of a world of 
 Inhabitants, & with the illuffrioos Farhilies of I 
 
66 €l)e dopage Of ITALY. Parti. 
 
 Orta, Spinola , Grimaldi , Sauli , DuraZiZi, Catanei , 
 and others , whole feveral names would go 
 almoft for feveral Armies. Yet for a need , they 
 can raife thirty thoufand Men, and arm them 
 well out of their Arfenal I confefs heretofore 
 they were ftrong enough to offend others ; for 
 they made Waragainft the Fifani , and worfted 
 them;. They fet alfo upon the Ifland of Corfica , 
 diftant from Genoa about a hundred nailes, and 
 took it. This Ifland gave the Repuhlick of Ge- 
 noa more honour than profit : for, it being once 
 a Kingdom, gives ftill to Genoa the Title of 
 Serenijfima , aiid a Clofe Regal Crown over its 
 Coat of Arms. In fine, the Genoefi were ftrong 
 enough heretofore, to lend great fuccors to 
 Godfrey of Bullen in his holy Conqueft of Hieru - 
 falem. Hence upon the very Area of the Holy 
 Sepulchre in Hierufalem, are written thefe words: 
 Frrepotens Genoenfium prafidium. 
 
 Their lute- As for their Intereft, it feemed to me to be 
 reji. far more Spanijh than French , by reafon of the 
 great profit they draw from Spam , which cor- 
 refponds with the rich State of Milan in Men 
 and Moneys, by means of the Genoefi: yet they 
 are well with all Chrifiian Frmces , except 
 with the Duke of Savoy who pretends to Sa- 
 vona. 
 
 Their Jear* As for the learned men of this Town, I find 
 ned Men. them not to be fo many. The rich Banker 
 is more efteemed here, than the learned Di- 
 vine. Yet I find here alfo fome famous for 
 learning, to wit, Baptifia Fregofus , or Fulgofis , 
 who for his fingular parts being chofen Doge of 
 Genoa , and by his own difloyal Kindred cha- 
 fed 
 
Parti. £lop 3 ge Of ITALY. 67 
 
 fed from Government and Country, comforted * 
 himfelfin his Studies; and having oWeiretTma- 
 ny particular things in Hiftory, lie reduced 
 them to Heads, and left us a juft volume of 
 Memorable Sayings and Deeds of the Antients : 
 for which work he is (tiled by * Alberto Tears- 
 dro , the Valerius Maximus of Italy. He wrote 
 in Italian, and dedicated his Book to bis Son. 
 
 The other learned Men of this Town are Ju- 
 fiinianm , Balm, Mafcardi , and Ckriftopher Colum- 
 bus. 
 
 Genoa alfo hath given to the Church three 
 Topes, Adrian theV .Innocent the IV. and Innocent 
 the VIII. 
 
 Here is an Academy of Wits called the A dor- xhe AcT 
 mentati ; which together with the other Aca- demy of 
 demies of the like nature, in all the Towns of/- wits, 
 taly, I would with my Traveller to vifit, parti- 
 cularly , that He may fee how far. the Italians 
 excel Us, in faffing their time well; and how 
 it’s much better to (pend the week in making of • 
 'Orations and Verfes , than in drinking of Ale and 
 fmoaking of Tabdco. 
 
 He that defifes to know more of Genoa, jet T y lr &£ 
 him read Augufiinus JuJHnianus of the Hiftory ftorian. 
 bf Genoa . 
 
 Having (pent fix days in Genoa, we agreed 
 with an honeft Vetturino to condudt us to Milan, 
 which is about four little days journey from 
 hence. In another Voyage 1 went from, Genoa 
 to Turin by Mon f err at x and (aw in my way Mo'nfmxx. 
 Novi (ol which by and by) Trim, Caj] ale, one 
 of the ftrongeft places of Italy , having a ftrong cajflk 
 Ciitadelle 9 a ftrong Caftle , ftrong Town-wall^ 
 
 F z and 
 
68 
 
 Jlexan- 
 (!) in. 
 
 Novi. 
 
 mz (Hopage Of ITALY. Part t 
 
 and Ditches; and Alexandria della paglia , a 
 ftrong Town ftanding upon the?*?. 
 
 But now at this time leaving Genoa , and in- 
 tending for Milan, we rid through San Pietro d? 
 Arena , by the Carthufians Monastery , over the 
 Appennine Hills, and in a day and a half came to 
 Novi. 
 
 Novi is a little ftrong Town belonging to 
 the Genoefi , and Frontier to the Milanefi. It’s 
 fome twelve Miles difiant from Tortona , the 
 firft Frontier Town of the State of Milan : and 
 becaufe thefe Frontiers were then peftei’d with 
 Bandits , a Nobleman of Genoa , who was in 
 our company, begg’d of the Governour of Novi, 
 a Convoy for himfeif and us, to fecure us to Tor - 
 t'cna : The Governour presently granted us a 
 Convoy of eight or ten Horfe-men : but, thofe 
 very Men he gave us for our Convoy, were 
 Bandits themfelves, who being banifhed from 
 the State and Town of Genoa for their mifde- 
 meanors, had two Months a year allowed them 
 to come freely into Frontier Towns, and nego- 
 tiate with the State. Thefe Men were thought 
 by the Governour to be our fafefi: Guards in 
 danger. Having been thus convoyed by our 
 honeft Rogues paft all danger, we payee! them 
 fome three Pifioles ; and feared no more dan- 
 ger , till we fhould meet with fuch fervants 
 as thefe another time. I confefs, it feemed at 
 firft a fearful thing , to fee our felves in the 
 hands of thofe, who had their hands often in 
 Blood : yet there is fuch a charm in a Gover- 
 nour s Parole , that we thought our felves as well 
 armed with it, as if we had been fhot free , 
 
Part L €fj t (UopogC 0 f ITALY. 6 9 
 
 and had had all the Spells of Lapland about us. 
 
 We had no fooner parted from thefe our Tortona. 
 Guards, but palling over a little River on 
 Horfeback, we entred into the Milanefe , and 
 came at night to Tortona , a ftrong Frontier 
 Town of the Milanefe , where Charles the Fill. 
 of Frtmce , in his return from the Conqueft of 
 Naples ,bezt the Venetians fk the Milanefi in aBattlc. 
 
 From Tortona we went the next day to Pavia, Pav **- 
 the fecond Town of the State of Milan, and 
 once the Seat of twelve Kings of the Lon go- T - c - n:[m 
 hards. It hands upon the River Ticinum, and U nl 
 hence it’s alio called in Latin Ticinum. Here’s 
 an Univerfitj , either founded or furnifhed 
 at firft , with Readers, or by Readers of 
 the Univerfity of Oxford. The chief Colleges , 
 are, that of Pins Quintus, and that of S. Charles 
 Borromauts. The other remarkable things here, 
 are, 1. The Domo y in which lieth buried the T ^ eDc 
 Body of a holy Bifhop of this .Town, called mQ% ° r 
 Sauli , who was contemporary to S. Charles 
 Borrom#m, and of the fame Paftoral jpirit and 
 zeal. Near the great door of this Church 
 (on the infide) they (hew you a little Majl of a 
 Boat , which they make ignorant people believe 
 (for fport) to have been the Lance of Orlando Fu~ 
 riofo. 
 
 2. Near the Lomo , in .the Pia^a , Hands ^ 
 a Brfaen Statue , which tome affirm to be the 
 Statue of Conftantwe the Great ; others, more 0 y Anton 
 probably, of Antoninus Puts. It was brought nm. 
 from Ravenna hither by Vidory ; and it had 
 like to have been carried back again to Ravenna 
 by ' Vidory . Fer Lotrech the French General in 
 F 3 the 
 
70 Ci }t (Homage of ITALY, Part L 
 
 the taking of thisTown,having granted thisSta- 
 tue to a Souldier of Ravenna ('who ferved under 
 him, and who having mounted the Breach firft, 
 asked nothing for his recompence but that 
 Statue , taken antiently f]jom his Native Town.) 
 Yet afterwards moved' with the generofityof 
 the Townfmen ('who having left all thirrgs el(e 
 with fome patience, to the prey of the Souldiers, 
 burft into Tears, when they heard that this Sta- 
 tue was to be taken from them .)Lotrech changed 
 his Gift to the Souldier, and left theCitizens of 
 Pavia their dear Statue . 
 
 S. Augu- ' 3.I faw the Auguffms Church , where the 
 jlm Body, ^ody of that great Father of the Church S. An- 
 gufiin lieth buried. It was tranflated hither 
 Baron. an. out Of Sardinia by Luitprandus King of the Lon- 
 725. gohards ; an Arm of which S. Auguftin a King of 
 Biron. an. England redeemed, at a great rate, and yet cheap 
 * 02 ^' too, if it were his' writing Arm, wherewith he 
 wrote fuch admirable Books. The new Tomb 
 in the Sacrifiy is all of white Marble, moft ex- 
 quifitely carved with Hiftorical Statues re- 
 prefenting the molt remarkable a&ions of that 
 DoBor. 
 
 4: In the fame Church we were fh own the 
 ^verimr T-°mb of Sevennm Boetiw, Author of that great 
 Boetius. J little Book de Confolatione Philofophica , which 
 he wrote in his exile, to comfort himfelf He 
 See Baron. was a Conful of Rowe for dignity, another S. 
 an. 525. 2)^f or learning and Lofmg his Head: and 
 held a Martyr by many. 
 
 5-. In the Cloifter of this Convent of the Au- 
 gufiins , lie buried two Enghfomen of note, the 
 Duke of Suffolk , and an' Engltff Bifhop called 
 • •'* " Parker u 
 
part I. (Homage Of ITALY. 7 1 
 
 Parker, of the Houfe of Morley,! read their fe- 
 veral Epitaphs upon the Wall of this Cloifter, 
 near the little door that goes from hence into 
 the Church, but have forgot them fince. 
 
 6. The Chapel where the Bones of the French- 
 men killed in the Battle of Pavia are kept and 
 fhown to Strangers. 
 
 7. In the Franciscans Church here, lies buried 
 Baldus the famous Jufifconfult. 
 
 8. The long Wooden-Bridge , covered over 
 head with a perpetual Penthoufe , to defend 
 men as well from the Sun, as from the-Rain, 
 
 Of this Town were Ennodim ificinenfis, and learnei 
 Lanfrancus , Archbifhop of Canterbury , who Men, 
 wrote fo learnedly againft Berengarim for the 
 Real Prefence . 
 
 He that defires to know the particular Hifto- The Hifto- 
 ry of Pavia , let him read Antonio Spelt a, and™ 1 "*- 
 Sacco. 
 
 From Pavia we went to Milan , fome twen- 
 ty miles off ; and in the way, faw the famous 
 Monafiery of the Carthufians , near unto which , 
 upon S. Matthias his day ( a day favourable to 
 Charles the V. feeing he was horn on that day, 
 
 Crohi’ned Emperour on that day , and got this 
 ViBory on that day ) was fought that memo- 
 rable Battle between the fiaid Emperours For- 
 ces, and the French King , An. if 2 5a where 
 Francis the I. of France was taken Prifoner, ha- A aVia ‘ 
 ving loll the day, not for want of courage, but 
 > conduft : for he had a little before, lent away 
 half of his Army to the con qu eft of Naples ; 
 
 • by which he fo weakened the reft of his Army 
 here, that he both loft the day, and did nothing 
 F 4 againft 
 
£se Mon - 
 bc\ 
 
 'Common- 
 
 t. trios. 
 
 t «. 
 
 %l)Z (Bopflgk Of ITALY. Part L 
 
 againft the Kingdom of Naples ; a great fault 
 obfierved by one that was prelent there, to wit, 
 Mohfteur Monluc. Francis being thus taken pri- 
 fonerv , was prefen tlycondu&ed to the Carthu- 
 fians Monaftery ^ which was hard by. Ente- 
 ring into the Church , and finding the Monks 
 fin gin g in the third hour this verfe of the 
 Tfalm, Coagulatum eft ficut lac cor eorum, ego 've- 
 to legem tuam meditatus fum, he ft ruck Up with 
 them at the next verfe, and lung aloud with a 
 piety as great , as his lofe, or courage, Bonum 
 fhihi quia humiliafli me , ut difcam juftificaticnes tu- 
 as : that is, iPs well for me, that thou haft h'umhled 
 me, that Imaty learn thy Juftificaticns . After he 
 had heard Mafs here, he was carried to Dinner 
 in the Monaftery ■, and was ferved by three Ge- 
 nerals of the Spanijh Army , Launoy , Bourbon , and 
 the Marquis of Vafti ; the one holding the Ba- 
 fm , the fecond pouring Water upon his hands , 
 and the third presenting him the Towel. Some 
 fay he refufed to be ferved by Bourbon , looking 
 tip an him as a revolted Traytor , rather than as 
 an Enemy ; indeed the brave French Knight 
 Bayard ( firnamed the Chevalier fans pear , who 
 died in the Battle Jbeing found expiring in the 
 Field by Bourbon , who faid to him, Boor Bayard}. 
 I pity thee ; anfwered him with all the courage 
 and life that was left him ; No , Traytor , I am 
 not to be pitied , who dye nobly , ferving my 
 King and Country : but , thou rather art to be 
 pitied , who live ft a Traytor to thy King and 
 Country. As for the King he was led Prifoner 
 into Spain, werehg was kept at Madrid till he 
 paid his Ranfom, Hence the Spa niards brag, 
 
 that 
 
Part I. HI ) e Cl ITALY. 7 j 
 
 that they had once a 'French King Prifoner, and 
 the French had never any King of SpainVriConer : 
 but the French anfwer , that their King had not 
 been prifoner had he fought as the Kings of 
 Spain do of late, that is, by Proxie, and nor in 
 perfon. However this Francis the firft defer- 
 ved better Fortune, being a Prince ofgreat Cou- 
 rage and Honour , and a great lover of his 
 Souldiers. For not long before, he had beaten 
 the SwiJJers in the Battle 'cf San ■ Donato , 
 where his Souldiers fought for him with lingu- 
 lar courage and zeal. And he had deferved it 
 all : For he was fo good to his Souldiers in that 
 expedition^hat he would ride up and down the 
 Camp in the night to vifit the wounded Soul- 
 diers, and help them to all neceftaries, com- 
 manding even His own fleets to be cut in pie- 
 ces to bind up their Wounds. 
 
 As for the Monaflery it lelf of'the Carthufians , The Car- 
 it’s onb of the molt ftately Monafteries of It a- thufians 
 ly 9 and, I believe , the fecond of that Order. Moruftery. 
 The great Cloifier is all covered with Lead. 
 
 The Church is one of the handfbmeft of Italy , 
 though built a la Tedefca. The Frontifpiece of 
 it is adorned with a world of Heads, and Figures 
 of white marble. The Chapels within are 
 richly adorned and painted. The Tabernacle 
 is worth fourfeore thoufand Crowns. The 
 Tomb of their Founder , John Galeaz>z>§ Vifconti , 
 
 Duke of Milan , which hands a little without 
 the Quire , with the cumbent Statues of Ludo- 
 vico Moro the laid Duke of Milan and his Wife, 
 lying under the other, is a ftately Monument . 
 
 Jn th W'Sacrifty we were fhown many fine 
 ' ' ' Re- 
 
74 
 
 Cfie ttapage of ITALY. Part i. 
 
 Relicks, much rich Church-plate, and the curious 
 hack of an Altar of Ivory cut into Hiftories af- 
 ter a rare manner. 
 
 Palling from hence we came to Milan. This 
 Town is farnamed the Great ; and rightly, fee- 
 ing it carries full ten miles in compafs within 
 the Walls. It hath ten Gates to it ; two hun- 
 dred Churches within it, and three hundred 
 thoufand fouls dwelling in it. Hence it was an- 
 tiently called Altera Roma a fecond Rome, both 
 o/i ian. k ecau £ Q f Great nets, and becaufoof its 
 
 other Titles , .which made it look like 
 Rome. It’s the Head of the beft Dutchy in 
 Europe , which is a hundred miles long from 
 North to South , and containeth four hundred 
 ! Towns in it. It’s called. Milan quafi Midland , 
 being a pure Mediterranean Town, and having 
 (which is a wonder) not fo much as a River of 
 its own running in it; but is only ferved by 
 two Channels cut out of the Ticine and the Adder . 
 This Town hath heretofore fuffered much by 
 War; great Towns being the fair eft Marks 
 to (hoot at, and Milan hath been forty times 
 foot at by Sieges, and twenty times hit , and ta- 
 ken, having had the misfortune to have been 
 under divers Factions and Rulers : asthejEw- 
 ‘per ours , the 'Turriani, the Vifconti, the Sforz^e , 
 the French and the Spaniards , who now 
 keep it, merce al Cafie/lo , which ftaveth oiF 
 all attempts of Strangers. France pretends to 
 this Dutchy as Heir of Valentia Vi[conty , who 
 was married to Lewis Duke of Orleans , whofe 
 houfe was excluded from this Dutchy by Fran- 
 ces SforZiU, who poffefled himfelf of this SfSte. 
 
Part L cije Voyage Of ITALY. 7 ? 
 
 As for the things which I faw in Milan , they 
 are thefe. 
 
 r. The ftore of Gentry and Nobility here, Store of 
 which I perceived to be very numerous, be- Gentr y- 
 caufc of an hundred Coaches (no Hackneys ) 
 which I faw handing before a Church upon a 
 private Fefiival-day of that Church. 
 
 2. Great ftore of Artisans, as Goldfmiths, 
 Armourers, Gunfmiths, Weavers, Silkftocking- Ani l m - 
 makers, Refiners of Gold, thofe that work in 
 Cryftal, and a world of others ; which gives oc- 
 cafion to the Proverb, which faith. That he that 
 would improve all Italy, mufi deftroy Milan firfi : 
 
 for if Milan were deftroy ed, the many Artizans * 
 that are there, would fpread * over all Italy , 
 and furnifh the other Towns, which want 
 Artisans. ) 
 
 3. The Churches here, and firft that ofS. Am - 
 brofe , where that glorious Father of the Church 
 refuted ftoutly to Th'eodojius the Emperour , en- church. 
 trance into that Church , becaufe of his paffio- 
 
 nate commanding the Majfacre at Thejfalonica , 
 where feven thoufand Men were murdered 
 for the fault of a few. Under the High Altar of s. Am- 
 this Church lieth the Body of S. Ambrofe ; as al- brofe his 
 fo the Bodies ofS. Gervafius and Protafius , two Tomb ' 
 primitive Saints , whole bodies were found 
 whiles S. Auftin lived at Milan, and who alfo re- 
 lates a famous Miracle and known to have been ^ ad s \ 
 wrought by God , at the Translation of thofe Auguftin, 
 holy Martyrs bodies into this Church. In this confe. 7 
 Church alto isfeenupon a high Pillar of a round * 
 form, a Brazen Serpent , like that ere&ed by Numb. 
 Mofes in the Defart, and commanded by God 21. 8. 
 
 him- 
 
7 6 C ! }Z filopilge Of IT ALY. part I. 
 
 himfelf to be made. I imagine it was. fet up 
 here for the fame end, for which it was com- 
 manded by God to be fet up myftically in the 
 Defart , that is, to put Men in mind of our Sa - 
 John 3. flours exaltation upon the Crofs for mankind, 
 j. 4 . the frequent memory of which is a Soveraign, 
 
 Antidote againft the ftings of the infernal Ser- 
 pent, the Devil. 
 
 4. Near unto the forefaid Church of S. Am - 
 hrofe ftands the little Chapel , where S. Augujlin 
 with his little Adeodattts, and his Friend Alippius 
 was baptized, as the words over the Altar te- 
 ftifie ; and from this little Chapel S. Amhrofe , 
 and S. Augufiin (now a Chrifiian) going procef- 
 fionally to the Great Church , made the Hymn 
 The Hymn Xe Deum , as they went ; one making one 
 TeDeum. y er f e , the other another. 
 
 5*. The other little Chapel on the other fide 
 of S. Amhrofe his Church , is built upon the place 
 where S. Augufiin was firft converted by a 
 Voice, whicli (aid to him, Tollelege , Tollelege : 
 meaning S. Pauls Epifiles : which he doing, 
 The place of pitched juft upon thofe words to the Romans , 
 the Corner - Non in cubilibm & impudicitiis , fed induimini 
 fion of s. Jefum Chnftum, &c. And fo of an impure Ma- 
 Auftin. nichean he became a chaft Chrifiian. 
 
 The Cl- ^ aw adjoyning to this Church of S. Am - 
 
 ftcrtians brofe the ftately Monafiery , with two curious 
 Menaflery. Cloifiers built upon round Pillars. The Mona- 
 fiery , as well as S. Amhrofe his Church belongs 
 to the Cifiertian Monks. 
 
 s. vi&orV 7. Then Ifawthe Church ofS. ViBor be- 
 Church. longing to the Olivet an Fathers ; with the admi- 
 
 rable Pifture of S. George killing the Dragon , of 
 
 the 
 
77 
 
 Part I. Clje ttfapage of ITALY. 
 
 the hand of Raphael JJrbin. This is a neat 
 Church when it is adorned in its belt Hangings, 
 as it was when I (aw it. The double Cloifiers 
 here of the Monafiery built upon round Pillars 
 ought to be feen. 
 
 8. In the Church of S. Nazarius are to bes .No^ario. 
 feen the Tombs of the Trivultii ; ftately Mo- 
 numents. 
 
 9. In the Church of S. Euforgius l few S Euftor- 
 the Area , or old Tomb , in which repofed. the^* 
 Bodies of the three Magi who came to adore 
 
 our Saviour in Bethleem , whole Bodies were 
 tranllated from hence to Coleh in Germany * 
 where I have feen them, by reafon of the de- 
 ftrudion of Milan . 
 
 1 o. • I few alfo the Church of S. Laurence , built 
 like that of SanBa Sophia in Constantinople . 
 
 Here lies buried Flacidia the Sifter of Honorius 
 the Emperour. 
 
 11. There are divers other Churches here, 
 all worth particular vifiting, by reafon offome 
 rare thing in them : as in that of S. Mark, the 
 rare piece of Simon Magus his fall from the Skies. 
 
 In that of the Pafjion , the rare Fixture of the lafi 
 Supper, by Chnftophoro Cibo. In that ofS. Celfo, 
 a rare pidure of Raphael's hand in theS aerify .The 
 Theat ins, and th tjefuits Churches are very neat. 
 
 12. Butthebeftof all the Churches of Milan The Demo. 
 is the new Domo, in the midft of which tieth bu- 
 ried the new S. Ambrofe of Milan ; I mean S. 
 
 Charles Rorromaus , another S. Ambrofe in Pafto- 
 
 ral dignity , zeal, and fandity. This Church 
 I take to be the fecondin Italy for folid work ; 
 being built all of white marble, with lies and 
 
 P/ 7 - 
 
78 m>z (Horace Of ITALY. Part X; 
 
 Pillars, each Pillar worth ten thoufand Crowns, 
 and there are a hundred and threefcore fuch PiV 
 s. Lorenzo. j an j n a j^ 0 p ma fjj ve marble ; not can- 
 
 died and frozen over with a thin cruft of mar- 
 ble , as moft of the other fine Churches ofl- 
 taly are. There are alfo fix hundred white 
 marble Statues fet round about the outfide 
 of this Church , each of them coft a thou- 
 fand Crowns. That of S. Bartholomew with 
 his skin upon his Arm, and that of Adam , are 
 two pieces much admired, and are of the hand 
 of Chriftophoro Cibo. The Frontifpiece is not yet 
 finifhed : but if that be the true defign of if, 
 which I have feen inPiftures in the 'Capuchins \ 
 Cloifter in Rome , it will be moft (lately/ The 
 Church it felf is (aid to be 25*0 cubits long. Near 
 the Quire , and almoft in the middle of the 
 Church, lyeth the Body of S. Charles Borromteus • 
 in a low Vault , turned now into a Chapel, open 
 at the top with low Rails round about it : The 
 infide of this Chapel is hung with hangings of 
 Cloth of Gold , over which runs a Cormffi o f fit- 
 ter Plate nailed to the Wall. Upon the Altar 
 lieth the body ofS. Charles at length in a fair 
 Cryflal Coffin made of feveral great fyuares of Cry - 
 fiat , through which (the wooden Cafe being 
 opened by fpecial leave from the Archbifiiopj 
 we fawhis body lying all along in his Epifcopai 
 Robes : His Face , Hands , and Feet , are only 
 feen , and his Nofe and Ups are fhrunck and 
 parched. Thetrue Picture of this Saint hangs 
 at the entrance below into this Chapel ; and his 
 Hiftpry and wonderful A&ions are hung up in 
 painting roundabout the Church on high. Over 
 
Part I. mym of ITALY. 79 
 
 the High Altar , in the very Roof of the Church , The Holy 
 is kept one of the Nails of the Crofs of our Savi- 
 our , given antiently to theil^tee/zby theEw- 
 yerw Theodofius. There burn always before it 
 a number of little Lamps t crofs- wife, and 
 drawn up thither with a pully , to fhew the 
 people where that holy Relick is. In fine , the 
 Steeple of this Church is not to be forgotten. It 5 s 
 not quite finifhed yet , but it’s high enough to 
 tire any man , and to fhew him from the top 
 ofit,the whole Town of Milan , the whole com- 
 pafs and circumference of the rare Cafile \ and the 
 whole Country round about for twenty miles On 
 every fide : a fight fo pleafant,that I would wifh 
 my Traveller , not only to mount up to the top 
 of this Steeple , but ( for this Steeples fake ) to 
 make it his conftant practice fas I didj to mount 
 up the chief Steeple of all great T o wns. 
 
 13. The great Hcfpital built in a quadrangl efheHofpi* 
 upon arches and round pillars is a molt magni- ul 
 ficent thing. Really if ficknefs were not a little 
 unwholefome and troublefome , a man would 
 almoft wifh to be a little fidk here , where a 
 King , though in health, might lodge handfbmely 
 The place where the fick people are kept , is 
 built crofs- wife , and in the middle of that crofs 
 ftands an open Altar, where all the fick people, 
 from their leveral quarters, and from their very 
 beds , may hear the Divine Service at once. 
 
 Four thoufand men are entertained daily in 
 this Hofpital , and therefore it hath great Re- 
 venues. S. Charles was a great Benefactor to 
 it, and gave away to it and other pious ufes , in 
 half an hour, five and twenty thoufand Crowns 
 
 of 
 
8o Gioy&SZ of ITALY. Parti 
 
 of Inheritance, which were fallen to him (being 
 a man of eminent Birth,) half an hour before. 
 Indeed he had no other Wife than his Church, 
 nor oth^r Children than th ePoor. 
 
 The Seta- ^ r ];h e lately Seminary, and the College 
 The Col- for the Swifter s * are noble buildings, and the 
 lege of the Eternal works of theaforefaid S. Charles. 
 
 Swiffers. i y The Lazaretto is a vaft building, car- 
 TkeLat- r yffigin cortipafs a thouland and eight hundred 
 laretto. y ar j s j t ft anc j s near the Town Walls, yet 
 out of the Town, and it is to receive into it thole 
 that are Tick of the Plague. There are as many 
 Chambers in it, as there are days in the year. 
 In the middle of the fquare of this vaft Court, 
 or Quadrangle, Hands a round Chapel, covered 
 at the top ; but open on all fides in fuch a man- 
 ner, as that all the people from their leveral 
 Chambers and Beds, may behold the Trie ft lay- 
 ing Divine-Service, and joyn their Devotions to 
 his. I have read in the Life of S. Charles Borro - 
 mans , that in a plague time, he vifited thofe 
 that were infe&ed, and miniftred the holy Sa- 
 craments to them himlelf in Perfon ; and went 
 in a lolemn Proceffion in the head of the Clergy, 
 with a Rope about his neck, and barefoot upon 
 the Stones, to move Stony Hearts to repen- 
 tance , and to appeale the wrath of God angry 
 with his People. 
 
 1 6. The Bibliotheca Ambrofian p is one of the 
 The Libra- beft Libraries in Italy , becaule it is not lo coy 
 n ' as the others, which Icarce let themfelvesbe 
 feen ; whereas this opens its doors publicklv 
 to all comers and goers, and luffers them to read 
 what Book they pleafe. It was begun to be 
 
 buildcd 
 
Part t fc&l OopaffC Of ITALY. § i 
 
 builded by S. Charles, and continued by his Ne- 
 phew Cardinal Federico Borrow ao : but it was 
 much augmented fince by the acceffion of Vin- 
 centius Vinell'i s Books, which after his death, 
 being fhippied by his Heirs for Naples , arid taken 
 by the Turks, were many of them thrown over- 
 board by thofe Analphabet Rogues, who looked 
 for other merchandife than Books. Yet many 
 of them were recovered again for Money, and 
 fet up here. Over the heads of the higheft 
 Shelves, are fet up the Pidtures ofLearned Men, 
 a thing of more coft, than profit ; feeing wi ll 
 that coil: many more Books might have been ! 
 bought, and Learned Men are belt feen in their 
 Books Writings. Leaner e ut te vide am. _ „ , 
 
 17. Behind the Library ftands the Gallery of^ e Q f p)^ 
 Pidtures, Where I law many choice Originals of i ur es. 
 prime Matters, and fome exquifite Copies, as 
 
 thofe four Pieces of the Four Elements , which 
 certainly are copied after thofe that 1 deferibed 
 above in the Houfe of the Dutchefs of Savoy ' 
 hear Turin, called La Valentine. But the rareft 
 Piece of all , either in the Library, or here, is 
 the rare Manufcript kept here, of Alberto Dureo. 
 
 Three hundred Pounds have been refufed for 
 
 it. 
 
 18. The Dominicans Library is very confide- rle Dei 
 rable too. But you rhuft not omit to fee th£ mhm&nii 
 Refectory here, where you fhall find an admirable 
 Pidture of the Lafi Supper, made by rare Lauren- 
 
 tins Vincim. The Painted Cloifier here defer Ves a 
 Vrfit too. 
 
 G 
 
 1 p~ The 
 
82 'QLljZ Qopageof ITALY. Parti. 
 
 TkeGrx- 'flic Monastery alfo called the Gratte , is 
 
 one of the bell in Europe , in whofe Church is a 
 rare Pi&ure of Chrifi crowned with Thorns, of 
 The Cj.hU ^ ie hand of Titian, 
 
 net of Ca- 2o. The Famous Gallery and Curiofities of 
 
 nonicoSe- Canonico Set all, far better than that of Monfieur 
 Servier in Lyons , of which above. And here I 
 wifh my Fen were as ingenious to defcribe all 
 the rare things of this Gallery, as the noble Canon 
 Set ali hath been in gathering them, and courte- 
 ous in (hewing them : fome of thefe curious 
 things I yet remember, for my Readers fake ; as a 
 great variety of Burning- glajjes , and yet not 
 Convex, as ours ordinarily are ; one of them fet 
 fire prefently to a piece of board an inch thick 
 that was brought forth. 2. A Mandr agora, 3. 
 A Bird without Feet, called by Ariftotle Apodes. 
 4. A Stone out of which is drawn a thread, which 
 being fpun and woven, makes a Stuff like Linen 
 indeed , but of an incombuff ible nature : The 
 Stone is called Asbeslos , and the (tuff Amyan - 
 thus, which being foul and foyled, is not to be 
 made clean by waffling in Water, but by throw- 
 ing into the fire. Baltaz^ar Bonifacius in his Hi- 
 fioria Ludicra tells of many who had fuch fluff. 
 f.A world of rare Meddals of the old Conluls and 
 Emperours in filver, gold, and brafs, making 
 divers feries. 6 . A world of Wooden things, 
 as alfo fruits, a n& fungi, all petrefied and turned in- 
 to Stone ; and yet no metamorphojis neither, the 
 things retaining their priftin Forms. 7. Divers 
 curious Clocks , whereof one fhews the time of 
 the day fftrangej even in the night by a quadrant. 
 8 .The little round Cabinet flat above like a childs 
 
 Drum, 
 
Part L Cfjedlosrge Of ITALY. 8j 
 Drum, with a frnooth Glafs : The Matter fetting 
 little Ships, Coaches, &c. upon the glafs, they 
 Wheel and move up and down as it were of 
 themfelves ; when all is done by a fympatheti- 
 cal virtue, and by the Matters turning fecretly 
 a little Wheel where there is fattened forne Load- 
 ftone , and the little Ships and Coaches having al- 
 fo fome piece of Iron in their Eottoms which 
 touch the bis: c id fo the Iron running after 
 the Loadffo moved by the Wheel , makes 
 thefe Sh’.ps and Coaches feem to move of them- 
 felves. 9. A piece of # Thunderbolt , which the 
 Can r himfolf laid he had cut out of a Mans. 
 r Thigh ftrucken with it. io. Divers pieces of 
 Coral juft - as it grows in the Sea. 11. A little Til* 
 lar two handful high of marble, fo cracked, that 
 it gapeth wide on one fide with the Crack, and 
 yet holdeth together fatt on the other fide , as a 
 great ftick of green wood doth, when it is bent 
 fo far on one fide as to gape, and yet fticks to- 
 gether on the other. 12. A world of rich Jew- 
 els, flrange Stones , Cameos , PiBures, Crystals, little 
 Infants in Wax in glafs Cafes, and many other 
 exotick Ramies , which are better foen than de- 
 fcribed. 
 
 21. Some Palaces here; as that of the Gover- Some pT 
 hours , . rather vaft than curious, ; and fitter to . 
 lodge Regiments of Guards in, than Viceroys. The 
 Palace of Marini is of a noble ttrudure. That 
 of theArchbifhop is very handfome. I faw alfb 
 the Palace of the Borromai painted within at the 
 entrance, with the Motto of S. Charles ; (who 
 Was of this Family) HUM ILIT AS. IPs related 
 in the Life of this Holy Prelate ■ that in twenty 
 
84 ©be CJo^ge Cf ITALY. Part ly 
 
 years (pace that he was Archbijhop and Cardinal 
 here, he went but twice to vifit his own near 
 Relations in this Palace , and defcended but twice 
 into his own Garden in his Archiepifcopal Pa- 
 lace : fo much work found he it th play the part 
 of an Archbijhop well. The Palaces alfo of the 
 Vifconti of the Sforz,e, of the Trivultii and many 
 others, deferve to be feen exadtly. 
 
 22. The Caftle or Cittadelle, one of the bell 
 The Caftle. in Europe , in the opinion of the Duke of Rohan , a 
 competent Judge. It (lands within and without 
 the Town, that is, at the 4 back of the Town, like 
 a Rod tied at the Childs back, to keep him in 
 awe. It’s guarded by a Garrifon of five hundred 
 natural Spaniards, with a (pedal Governour of its 
 own , independant of the Governour of Milan. 
 It looks more like a Town than a Caftle ; being a 
 mile and a half about , and furnilhed with all 
 conveniences a Souldier can require. The large 
 Streets in it ; the (lately Houles and Palaces 
 for the chief Commanders ; the neat Piazza’s ; 
 the number of well furnilhed Shops in all kinds, 
 even Goldfmiths too; the five Fountains, or 
 Wells, not to be dryed up ; the Mill ; the Hofc 
 pital ; the Church , with eight or ten Chaplains 
 in it , and a Curate ; the fair place of Arms, 
 capable of fix thoufand Men ; two hundred 
 great pieces of Canon upon the Walls ; the fix 
 Royal Baftions , the regular Fortifications or 
 Outworks; the underground way from one 
 Raftion to another ; the infinite heaps of Canon 
 Bullets, fome whereof weigh 800 pound weight ; 
 the three large and deep Ditches round about the 
 Caftle ; the (lately Entrance, Gate , and two 
 
 ftrong 
 
parti. Clje flJojJajje Of ITALY. 85 
 
 ftrong Towers, make this Caftle one of the moft 
 Cavalier curiofities a Man can fee in Italy. They 
 (hewed me here the Cannon which killed Ma- 
 rejhal Crequy before Breme , and for that fervice 
 it’s allowed to reft here for ever. 
 
 23. The Shops of Cry fids , where you have The shops. 
 a world of curiofities in Cryftalras Watch-cafes, 
 
 T wizer-cafes^ little Boxes, Pi&ures cut inCry- 
 ftal , Croffes and Beads of Cryftal, See. The 
 Shops alfo of Silk-ftockings which are hugely e- 
 fteemed in Italy , becaufe they are twice as ftrong 
 as ours, and very maffive. The Shops, in fine, 
 of Embroiderers , whofe Embroidery in Gold 
 and Silver is the beft in the world, and the cheap- 
 eft. 
 
 24*Here is an Academy of Wits, called the Naf-rhe Aci- 
 cofti, or Hidden men. But why Hidden l feeing dem )> °t 
 Wit , like the Sun, fhould fhine publickly,and not wns ' 
 bury it felf ; except it be to fhew us, that as the 
 Sun never fhines brighter , than after he hath 
 been hidden ms. Cloud : fo Wit never fhines more, 
 than after it hath been hidden in Study. Hence 
 was that faying of a gra \e Philoftf her, Abfconde 
 <vitam\ that is ly hidden a while, at the dug 
 of the Book. Indeed Demofthenes caufed his 
 hair to be fhaved off, that by that deformity he 
 might be afhamed to go abroad, and fo be ob- 
 liged to ftudy at home. As for this Academy , 
 it helps much to animate with Wit this great 
 Town, which otherwife would look like Poly - 
 phemm (having loft his eye) great but blind. 
 
 \ Tumor non eft magnitudo. 
 
U 
 
 The learned 
 Men. 
 
 Aftrong 
 
 Body. 
 
 Lexnd.ro 
 
 Alberto. 
 
 A strong 
 mind. 
 
 Its Rgve- 
 •hues. 
 
 Its 
 
 Strength. 
 
 Its Hijlo- 
 rinns. 
 
 mytmomz of ITALY. Part L 
 
 2$. The moft famous Men of this Town for 
 learning have been thefe: Valerius Maximus for 
 Hiftory ; Alciatus , Decius and fafon for Law : 
 Cardan for Philofbphy : Pamgarola and Paulus 
 Arefius for Sermons : Bonacina for Canon 
 Law; and Oftavius Ferr arias (whom I knew 
 lately in Padtia) for belle lettere. 
 
 2 6. Two other Men here are famous for o- 
 ther things; -to wit Uberto Crucio , and Gu - 
 lielmo Pufierula ; the firft fo ftrong , that he 
 could ftop aHorfe in his full Gallop with one 
 hand ; lift up upon his back a Hof fe loaden with 
 Corn ; and ftand fo ftifly upon his Legs that no 
 Man, though running againft him with all his 
 force, could pufhhim out of his place or Pofture. 
 The other without any Learning at all, except 
 his firfr Grammar Rudiments, could with his 
 natural Wit only, decide Law-cafes, and make 
 filch good Orders, that the beft Lawyers could 
 not find what to add to them, or what to dimi- 
 ftifh from them. It’s pity thefe two men had 
 not been melted into one, to have made one 
 excellent Man, by their clubbing Wit and Force 
 together, and their mingling of Sana mens, with 
 Cor pore fano. 
 
 The Revenues that Spain draws from Milan 
 yearly are two Millions and four hundred, thoufand 
 Crowns , befides the thirds , to which they are obli- 
 ged in time of War. 
 
 This State for a need can raife fifty thoufand 
 Men. 
 
 He that defires to know the Hiftory of Milan, 
 let him read Corio of the Hiftory of Milan : Ri - 
 pamentius , Scipio Barbono , of the lives of the Dukes 
 of Milan, and Facia Morigi. Having 
 
Part I. €f)e ciopnge of ITALY. 87 
 
 Having thus feen Milan infix days time, ..we 
 took Horfe for Bologna , fix days journey from 
 hence, and palled through Marignano , Lodi, Pia- 
 cenza, Parma , Regio , Modena , Fori- TJrbano, an4 
 fo to Bologna ; of each I will (ay fomething. 
 
 Marignano is a little Town about ten miles Mmgm*. 
 diftant from , and from thence to Lodi no - 
 
 the way is molt pleafant, and level as an Alley. 
 
 Near to this Town Francis the firfi of France 
 fought with th t Swifter s a famous Battle, and kil- 
 led * 6000 of them, and took Ludovicus SfGrza 
 the Duke of. Milan , who thought to have 
 cfcaped in Swifter s cloths, but was dilcove- 
 red. 
 
 Lodi\ s a good juft Town, and Frontier upon Lcil 
 the Venetians , the River Adda runs under its 
 Walls. It’s called Lodi either becaufe it’s built up- 
 on the Ruins, or near to old Lodi, which was cal- 
 led Latis Pompeia, becaufe Pompey had reftored it. 
 
 This Town is famous forexceilent NeatsTongnes , 
 and Cheefes as big asMilftones.A Gentleman of this 
 Town caufed fourCheeles to be made, each one 
 weighing 5*00 pound weight. The people hero 
 mow their Hay three times a year : and I 
 am afraid they are polled as often with 
 Faxes. 
 
 Piacenza, or Pleafance , deferves its name, by vhcen^x. 
 reafon of its fweet htuation in a rich Country 
 near the Po and Trebia, two great Rivers. Near 
 the lalt of which Hannibal overcame Sempnnins 
 the Roman Conful. The Country round 'about 
 this Town, is very rich in paflurage : Hence 
 their excellent Cheefes and rare Cream, it abound- 
 G 4 eth 
 
S8 
 
 Its Rare- 
 ties . 
 
 A piece oj 
 Thrift. 
 
 Its Hiflc - 
 V- 
 
 Tama. 
 
 %\)l (Ho mt Of ITALY. Part I. 
 
 eth alfo in S ah fits which afford no fmall profit- 
 I his i own belongs to the Duke of Parma. 
 
 The beft things to be feen here, are, the £- 
 quefiris fiatua of the fecond Alexander the Great , 
 or the fir&- Alexander of Parma. It’s in Brafs in 
 the Market-place. The old Fountain made 
 by Augufus Catfar. The rare pi dure of Ra* 
 phaePs hand, in the BenediAins Church behind the 
 high Altar. The Churches of the Dominicans , 
 and Canon Regulars are no contemptible ones. 
 
 I obferved in this Town a notable piece of 
 Thrifdnefs ufed by the Gentlewomen , who 
 jriake no fcruple to be carried to their Country 
 Houfes near the Town in Coaches drawn by 
 two Cows yoaked together : Thefe will carry 
 the Signora a pretty round trot unto her Villa : 
 They afford her al’fo a difh of their Milk, and 
 after Collation, bring her home again at night 
 without (pending a penny. 
 
 He that defires to know more of Piacenza, let 
 him read Umberto Loccati. 
 
 Of Piacenza , where Cornelius Mujfo , Bifhop 
 of Bitonti , a great preacher, and a Trent Father ; 
 as alfo Ferrante P allavicini. 
 
 Partpa belongs alfo to the Duke of Parma , of 
 the Houfe of Farnefe. This Dutchy was given to 
 Tier Luigi Farnefe by Paulas Ilf. upon condition 
 it fhould hold of the Pope , and pay him yearly 
 Ten thoufand Crowns/ It’s worth to the Duke 
 two hundred thoufand Crowns. This Town of 
 Parma is three miles in compafs, hath the River 
 Parma running through it, over which is built a 
 handfome Stone Bridge. The Country round a- 
 bout the Town is molt fertil, and begets fuch 
 
 credit 
 
Parti. ®&e (Hopage Of ITALY. 89 
 
 credit to the Cheefes , that Parmefan Cheefes are 
 famous over all the World. 
 
 The Chief things to be feen in Parma, are TheDuke's 
 thefe, The Duke’s Palace, with the Gar dens, Fom- Palace, 
 tains , Wild Be aft s , the admirable Theater to ex- 
 hibit Opera's in. The exquifite Coaches of the 
 Duke ; one whereof is all of beaten Silver, with 
 the Seats and Curtains embroidered with Gold 
 and Silver ; another fo well gilt and adorned, that 
 it ; s almoft as rich as the former. Laftly , the 
 Stables where I faw Horfes fiiitable both in 
 Strength and Beauty to the forefaid Coaches. 
 
 Then I went to the Domo , whofe Cupola was TheVom ' 
 painted by the rare hand of Coreggio. 
 
 Laftly, To the Capttcins , in whofe Church Ca P u ~ 
 lies buried my noble Heroe, Alexander Farnefe ^Uxmdet 
 Duke of Parma , whom 1 cannot meet in this f arne f e . 
 my Voyage without a Complement. He was 
 the Third Duke of Parma, but the Tenth Worthy , 
 
 Indeed his leaping the firft Man into the Turks 
 Galleys in the Battle of Lepanto , with Sword 
 in hand, and in the eighteenth year only of his 
 age, was fuch aPrognoftick of his future worthy 
 his reducing Flanders again, with the prodigious 
 A&ions done by him at the taking of Antwerp , 
 was fuch a making good of the Prognoftick ; 
 and his coming into France in his Slippers & Sedan Some Cru 
 to fuccour Rouen befieged by Hemp the IV. was ticks hold. 
 filch a crowning of* all his other actions, that his QP in ^ us 
 Hiftory begets belief to Quintus Curtins , and 
 makes men believe, that Alexanders can do any mince , 
 thing. 
 
 The Revenues of this Prince are faid to be T ^DuU y s 
 Six hundred thoufand Crcwns a year. He is now ^ vehues : 
 
 of 
 
90 c&e (Hopage Of ITALY. Parti. 
 
 &is jnte - of the French Faction ; and in all his Territories 
 
 HisForces Can ra ^ 2 ^ 00 ° Men. 
 
 The Am-' Here is an Academy of Wits called the Inno- 
 
 dmy of mindti , as they that had rather be wife, than be 
 talked of, or tamed for fiich. 
 
 This Town hath furnifhed Italy with two ex- 
 cellent Painters, Coreggio , and Parmigiano. 
 
 its Hi f or y. He that would know the particular Hiftory of 
 Parma , let him read Bonaventura Arrighi . 
 
 From Barma we went to Regio, a Town be- 
 longing to the Duke of Modena : Here is a neat 
 Cathedral Church, of which Church S. Profper 
 wasBifhop. Of this Town were thefe three 
 learned Men, Guido Pancirola , Cardinal Tofco y 
 and (narling Caflelvetro. 
 
 Modena . Modena is the Town where the Duke keeps 
 
 his Court. It’s a handfome Town, and by its 
 high Steeple fhews it felf to Travellers long be- 
 fore they come to it.lt hath alfo a ftrong Cittadel, 
 which lying flat and even with the Town, fhew- 
 eth the Town, that indeed it can be even with 
 it, whenfoever it fhall rebel. 
 
 The Palace of the Duke hath fome Rooms in 
 it as neat, and rich, as any I faw in Italy witnefs 
 thofe Chambers hung round with the Pictures of 
 thofe of his Family, and Wainfcoted with great 
 Looking-Glajfes and rich gilding. 
 
 The Farm- This Duke is of the Family of Efte, but not 
 
 Jyof Efte: of the true Line : Wherefore for want of lawful 
 Heirs Male, Ferrara and Commacho fell to the 
 Church in Clement the VIIl’s. time, and remain 
 there ever fince. 
 
 Of 
 
Part I. e (Homage of ITALY. 9 1 
 
 Ofthe true Houfe of E/e, was the brave Counters 
 Comtefs Matilda the Dry-Nurfe , as I may fay, oI MmUa% 
 the Roman Church . For it was fhe defended Gre- 
 gory the VII. againft the Emperour Henry the' 
 
 V L and brought him to acknowledge his fault, 
 and cry the Pope mercy. It was fhe alfo that by 
 Will and Teft ament left the Pope Parma , Regio , 
 
 Mantua , and Ferrara . Hence Urban the VIII. 
 out of gratitude to this Princefs caufed her 
 Statue and Tomb to be fet up in S. Peters Church 
 in Rome. The Will and Teftament of this 
 Princefs are kept in Lucca to this day. 
 
 Hard by Modena was fought the famous Battle The hfl 
 where Hirtius and Pan fa being Confuls, the Se- tru f Con ‘ 
 nate loft in them its Authority. * u s ' 
 
 Of Modena were thefe Famous Men in itsLetrnel 
 Learning, Cardinal Sadoletus , Carclus Sigonius 
 and Gabriel Fahpius. 
 
 In Mo Tna are made the beft Vifards for 
 Mafquerades ; and it’s no fmall profit which they 
 draw from this foolifh Commodity, feeing Stul- 
 torum plena fimt omnia. # 
 
 The Revenues of this Duke are Three hun*^^"^ 
 dred thoufand Crowns a year : and he is now^^' 
 of the French Faction. He can raife 30000 Men. r eZl. 
 
 From thence palfing the River we came foon Hi* Forces* 
 to Fort Urban , a Cittadel moft regularly built Fortvrbdn. 
 by the Command of Pope Urban the VII I. from 
 whom it's called. If s fo ftrong, that it is not a- 
 fraid to ftand, night and day alone in the fields, 
 and upon the Frontiers of the Popes Eftate. c ~ d 
 PalTing from hence through Caftel Franco , anti- v T « nco , 
 ently called Forum Gallorum 3 vje arrived be- 
 times at Bologna. 
 
 Bologna 
 
 o 
 
92 mjt CUvm of ITALY, Part I. 
 
 Bologna. Bologna is one of the greateft Towns of Italy, 
 and one of the handfbmeft. It’s the fecond of the 
 Popes Dominions^ and the chief Uni verfity of Ita- 
 ly for Lava. Hence the Jurifis fay it is, Mufarum 
 domus , atque omnis nutricula Juris , and the very 
 common Coyn of the Country tells you that 
 Bononia docet. 
 
 It’s named by the Common Proverb, Bologna 
 la grajja ; becaufe of the fertil Soyl in which it 
 ftands, to wit, in the very end of Lombardy ; 
 and the many fprings which hume<ft it from the 
 Apennine Hills , at whole feet it ftands. 
 
 This Country was antiently called Felfina , 
 Gallia Cifalpina , Gallia Togata , to diftinguiih it 
 from Gallia Braccata, the Country in France near 
 Nar bonne, arid from Gallia Comat a, the Country 
 in France called LaGuienne. In Middling Ages 
 it was called Romagnola , becaufe Bologna , Ra- 
 venna , Cessna, Forli , Faenz>a, and Imola Itood 
 conftant to the City of Rome againft the Lorn ~ 
 bards fora long time. 
 
 As for the Town of Bologna now, if: excel- 
 Jtfelf 0Wn lentl y we ^ built, and for the molt part upon 
 Arches , like the Covent Garden in London ; only 
 the Pillars are round. Theffe Arches bring great 
 conveniency to the Inhabitants, who can walk 
 all the Town over cool and dry, even in July and 
 January. It’s five mile in compafs, and an ex- 
 cellent Summer Town, were it not that the Air 
 is not altogether fo pure, and the Wines heating. 
 ItsGwern - * ts S overne< ^ by a Legat a Latere , fent hither 
 menu ' by the Pope, and in change, it fends an Embaf- 
 fadour to Rome to refide there : fo that Bo- 
 logna 
 
Parti. CI)C fiJopagC Of ITALY. 9} 
 
 logna is treated by Rome rather like a Sister ,j ts Pr fj 
 than a Sub f ft ; and defervediy, feeing Bolognaleges. 
 fell not to the Church any other way but by her 
 free giving her felf to the Pope ; referving only 
 to her ielffome particular Privileges; as pow- 
 er to fend Embajfadors to Rome ; and that if a- 
 ny Townfman kill another, and can but efcape 
 away, his goods cannot be confifcated. 
 
 I ftaid fix days here, in which time I law 
 thefe things. 
 
 1 . The Dominicans Church and Convent. InTbe Derm. 
 the Church, 1 faw the Tomb of S. Dominick, Foun- nicans 
 der of that Order. It’s all of White Marble cut c ^ rc '^ 
 with curious Figures relating to his Life. Jn 
 t\\\$Church is kept a Famous Manuscript, to wit 
 the Bible it felf written in Parchment by Efdras 
 himfelf, faith Leandro Alberto the Cambden of Ita- 
 ly , and a Friar of this Convent. They fbew 
 you alfo here a curious Lamp fent to St. Domi- 
 nick's Tomb by the new converted Indians . It’s 
 of a moft rare Workmanfhip. Behind the high 
 Altar Hands the Quire fo famous for the Seats , 
 which are of a rare Mofaick Work of Coloured 
 Wood inlaid into Pi&ures reprefenting the Old 
 and New Tefiaments, and all wrought by one 
 Lay Brother called Fra. Damiano di Bergamo. 
 
 This kind of Mofaick Work in Wood was antient- V 
 
 ly (faith Vafari) called Tarfia , and in this kind 
 of Work Brunellefcbt and Maiano did good 
 things in Florence. But John Veronefe improved 
 it much afterwards by boiling Wood intofe- 
 veral colours, and them inlaying it into what 
 Poftures and Figures he pleafed. This Quire 
 is {hewn to Strangers as a rare thing ; and wor- 
 thily. 
 
94 SJopage of ITALY. Part I, 
 
 thily, fince the Emperour Charles the V. had the 
 curiofity to fee it, and with the point of his Dag- 
 ger , to try whether it were inlaid , or only 
 painted; and the piece which he picked out 
 with his Dagger, was never put in again for 
 a Memorandum. In this Church , as alfb in 
 th e Chapter houfe and Cfaifier of this Convent , lie 
 buried many Readers of the Law , who having 
 lived here by the Law, died here alfo by the 
 Law of Nature. 
 
 The Domi - 2. The Convent here is one of the faired in 
 
 nicm Con- Europe, in which i^o. Friars conftantly live and 
 vent. ftudy. The little Chapel , which was once S. 
 Dominions Chamber ; the vaft Dormitory ; the 
 fair Library ; the great RefeBory, and the curious 
 Cellar are (hewn courteoufly to Strangers. 
 
 3. The Nunnery of Corpus Chrijli. it’s of S. 
 The Body of Clans Order, and famous for the Body of Be at a 
 Beata Ka- Ratherina di Bologna a mod holy Nun of this 
 therina. Q r J er anc j Convent. I faw her Body fitting draight 
 up in a Chair, in her Religious Habit : She holds 
 her Rules in her right hand ; and we fee her Face 
 and Feet plainly , but thofe black and dried 
 up. 
 
 TheCorfo. 4. From hence 1 went on to the Town Gate, 
 a little out of which Gate lie£a fair Street 
 where they make the Corfo of Coaches in Sum- 
 mer Evenings. 
 
 y. Turning from hence on the left hand, I 
 S. Michael went to & Michael in Bofco a (lately Monadery 
 in Bofco. of Olivet an Fathers , (landing Upon a high Hill. 
 
 From this Hill I had a perfed view of Bologna 
 under me, and of all the Country about it : 
 which being level and (trowed with a world of 
 
 white 
 
Part I. CD e (Ua page of ITALY. 9s 
 
 white Hollies and Villa's , looked like a 
 loaden with Ships under fail. Entring into this 
 Monaftery, I law the Oval Court painted by fe- 
 veral Prime Matters, of which Guido Rheni of 
 Bologna was one. Then mounting up to the 
 Dormitory, I found it to be one of the fairett I 
 had ever feen. 
 
 6. The Monaftery, or Convent of the Francif- Q , /? 
 cans , with the rare row of Pillars , and Portico lyMqi^U- 
 towards the Street, the excellent drifters, and ria. 
 
 the curious Cellar. 
 
 7. The Monaftery of St. Salvatore with its two 
 vatt Courts or double Cloifter built upon Galle- 
 ries above, it’s a Noble Building. 
 
 8. The Monaftery of the Servits , that of the 
 Auguftins, and that of the Carmelites , are all of 
 them fuch ftately Buildings, that 1 may boldly 
 fay, that no Town in Europe is comparable to 
 Bologna for fair Monafteries. 
 
 9. Then I vifited San Petronio , ftanding i ns.Petroni- 
 the end of the great Piazza , of which Church °’ s chunk 
 Leandro Alberto writ a hundred years ago, that 
 
 he thought it would not be ended but with 
 the Worlds end. And I am half of his opinion ; 
 for when 1 patted that way laft, I found the Scaf 
 folds yet handing, which I had found there 
 one and twenty years before ; and yet in all 
 my five Voyages into Italy , I found them al- 
 ways knocking and making as much noife and 
 dutt, as if this Church lhould be finifhed within 
 half a year when as yet half of it is only fini- 
 fhed. In thisChurchC^r/^the V. was crowned 
 Emperour by Clement the VII. 
 
9 6 m)Z (Homage Of ITALY. Part I. 
 
 TheDomo. I0 . The Domo, which is not yet half finirtied 
 neither: yet that which is finiftied, promifeth 
 fair for the reft. 
 
 ^ er , ii. The New Church of S. Paul hath a curi- 
 OUS High Altar. In the Church of S. Giovanni in 
 Morte is the rare Pi<fture of S. Cecily of the hand of 
 RaphaelUrbin. The JefuitsChurch the Church o fS. 
 Stephen find that of the PaJJion defer ve to be feen. 
 
 12. After the Churches and Monasteries , we 
 TheLegat’s went on with vifiting the reft of the Town, and 
 Palace, (aw the Palace of the Popes Legate : in this Pa- 
 lace I law the rare Cabinet and Study of Aldrovan - 
 dus, to whom Pliny the Second if he were now 
 alive, would but be Pliny the Sixth , for he hath 
 printed fix great Volumes of the natures of all 
 Aldrovan - things in nature : each Volume being as big as all 
 dushustu. pi^s Works. They ftiewed me here two or 
 binet* C ^^ ree hundred Manuscript s % all of this Mans own 
 hand- writing, and all of them Notes out of the 
 beft Authors; out of which Notes he compiled 
 his fix great Volumes which are nowin print. 
 Seeing thefe Manufcripts , I dsked whether the 
 Man had lived three hundred years, or no, as 
 it’s faid Joannes de Temporibus in Charles the 
 Great’s time did ; but it was anfwered me , that 
 he lived only fourfeore and three : a fhortage 
 for luch a long Work : but it fheweth us how far 
 aMan may travel in Sciences in his Life time if he 
 fife but betimes, and Ipur on all his Life time 
 with obftinate Labour. Certainly had he wrote 
 before Solomons Solomon s would have chan- 
 
 ged his faying, and inftead offending the flotliful 
 Man to learn of the Pifsmire how to labour, he 
 would have fent him to Aldrovandm his Study 
 and Example : Yade ad Aldrovandum piger. 
 
Part I. €lje alapage Of ITALY. 97 
 
 r.V ' , The G S eM Sch °°i s here where the Do/tors TltScMi 
 of the Univerfity read, are ftately both within 
 and without. un > 
 
 14. The Spanijh College founded here b'v nr> _/ P 
 b\e Cardinal Atternozzo, delerves to be taken % Cof: 
 notice of It s well built with a handfome Church %• 
 and five Pnefts to ferve it. The intention of 
 his College is to furnifli all the King of Spams 
 Dominions in Italy with able Magiftrates and . 
 Officers of Juftiee. None can live in it but Natu- 
 ral Spaniards (except the Chaplains,) and thole' 
 Spaniards mult be Doctors of the Law before 
 they can be admitted here ; they only learn 
 the Language and Cuftomsofthe Countries,and 
 perfeft themlelves in the ltudy of the Law 
 that they may be fit to fill up the ft* vacant 
 places ot Judicature that fall either in the State 
 of Milan, in the Kingdom of Naples , or in Sicily 
 They have a revenue of twelve thoufand Crowns 
 a year. They keep two Coaches , live very no'-' 
 bly and lodge all Spanijh EmbaJJ’aJours, Cardinals 
 ana Prelates oft heir Nation that pals this wav 
 In the College you fee the Pictures of many great 
 Statefmen and Cardinals and others who have 
 been of this College-, but no Picture plealed me 
 like that of their brave Founder , Noble Cardi- 
 nal Albemozzo, which is in the Church, and re- 
 prefenting him in the fame pofturc he was in 
 when he recovered all the Popes State in Italy ’ 
 finto the Pope tnen at Avignon ; of which I have 
 Ipoken Efficiently above in deferibing Avn 
 
 non. 
 
 l(T~ 
 
 o 
 
 1 y The two Towers here in the midft of the T ,., 
 Town, the one very high and ftraight , called yT^rs' 
 
9$ tEfie (Hopage Of ITALY. Part I. 
 
 Degli Jfinelli ; the other low and bending, cal- 
 led, La Carijjenda. They would make us be- 
 lieve that this bending Tower was made crook- 
 ed a-purpofe ; and it’s ftrange to fee how molt 
 Men make it their bufinefs rather to fee this low 
 crooked Tower, than the other, which is both 
 higher and ftraighter. But there’s no Myftery 
 to make things ill, and to mifs of our aimes : 
 and I rather think the Carijjenda or low Tower, 
 went not up higher, becaufe the Architect per- 
 ceived it went up awry. But we ftrangers ad- 
 mire every thing in ftrange Countrys, and that 
 makes that none admire us : Upon which occa- 
 fionlwould wifh my young Traveller never 
 to admire any thing in outward (hew, but to 
 look curioufly at every thing with crying out, 
 O che Bela Cofa ! This will get him and his Na- 
 tion far more honour, for Admiration is but the 
 Daughter of Ignorance ; and Magnanimus) faith 
 Ar flotle ) nihil admiratur. 
 
 The Hon 1 ^ Then ^ le & ou fe s here, which are generally 
 fa in Bo- we ^ built, and in Summer time, fetting open 
 logna. their Doors and Gates towards the Street, you 
 may look quite through their Courts , Entries, 
 Porches , Houfes , and a huge way into their 
 Gardens; which even from thence, will falute 
 your Eye with dainty Perfpeftives, Fountains, 
 and frefh Verdure; and your Note too with cu- 
 rious Smells of Jefmin , and Orange Flowers, 
 as they did mine often. Now the beft Palaces 
 here are thole of Malvez.% ,i y Campeggi, Pepoli , 
 Facbineitij. Cejpi , and others. 
 
 r 7 . Thefe 
 
Parti. CJjed lopagcof ITALYe 99 
 
 17. Thefefine Houfesare full alfb oINobili- The Noti- 
 fy, and I remember to have feen here at a Cor - //f > 
 
 ^ di Paglio upon Midfummer day , the long great , 
 ftreet lined quite through with Coaches on 
 both Tides, and thole Coaches doublelined with 
 Ladies and Cavaliers of Garbo. Indeed it would 
 be pity, that filch a ftately Town as Bologna, 
 ihould like Leyden in Holland , be full only of 
 Hanfes and Boren. 
 
 18. Their Traffick here confifteth much in TfaTraf- 
 Silks, Velvets, Olives, Leather Bottles, Gejlies, 
 Wafhbals, and little Dogs for Ladies, which 
 
 here are fo little, that the Ladies carrying 
 them in their Muffs have place enough for their 
 hands too. 
 
 19. THeir Markets here are alfb exquifitely The Mar* 
 good for all provifions of Mouth, witnefs their bets. 
 Salficci only, which are a regalo for a Prince. 
 
 20. But that you may not think them better The Made » 
 fed, than taught ; they haveeredted here an A- °f Wns ' 
 cademy of Wits., called Gli Otiof , or Idlemen , by 
 
 a Figure of Rhetorick called a Lye , or, per anti - 
 phrafin , becaufe they are not idle, it’s this A- 
 cademy (l believe,} which hath helpt to fet out 
 three rare Modern Writers of this Town, Car - Tke Le or- 
 dinal Bentivoglio , the Marquifs of Malvezdi , ?l M Mdn 
 and fohn Baptijla Manz>ini \ the firft, the Titus 
 Li vim of his Age , the fecond, the Lucius Flo * 
 rrn of his age ; and the third, the Marcus Tulli- 
 us of his time. To whom I may add Leandro 
 Alberti , the Camden of Italy. 
 
 21. He that defires to know the particular TheHifio ~ 
 Hiftory of Bologna , let him read Bartholcmeo y r ‘uns< 
 Galeotti , and Giovanni Garz,o } Where he fnall 
 
 Hi fmd 
 
®xo Cfye (Homage of ITALY. Part I. 
 
 find how Bologna buffered much antiently by 
 the two oppofite Factions of the Lamb art azzi 
 , and the Cwm But now they enjoy quiet and 
 repofe under the Pope. 
 
 Remember Havin § thus ^ een Bologna , and being armed 
 this Bolet- w ith a Bolettina di Sanita , taken here, to make 
 tina, Tra- us be let pafs into the State of Florence , we freer- 
 veller. ed on Horfeback towards Florence , and reacht 
 it in two days, the firft days journey by Pianora , 
 Loiano , S cargo, V Az,ino , and over 
 
 Apen- the Apennines , was long and tedious enough, till 
 mne hills, the .night came, at which time we were much 
 recreated with the fight oPa Fire which appeared 
 Tome two miles off in the fide of a Mountain on 
 our left hand. This Fire appears here frequent- 
 ly; efpecially in cloudy weather ; and it appear- 
 ed to me for an hour together as I rode along, 
 to be frill of the fame bignefs, and of the fame 
 glowy colour (Fornace like) and of a perfect 
 round form, and not pyramidal, as other flames 
 are. The Country People here call this Fire , 
 La Bocca d' Inferno , Helps Mouth ; and I know 
 not why they may not as well call this Fire fo, 
 Tertul. I as Fertullian calls Vefuyius and <M£tna ("two Bur- 
 xenxT\ 2 Mountains ) Fumariola Inferni , Hells Chim- 
 
 ' neys. Taken in fine, with this fixed Meteor, we 
 Fioren^t- forgot the tedioufnefs of the way and came to 
 Fwrenzuola. The next Morning palling by 
 Scarperta and II Ponte we arrived betimes at Flo- 
 rence. 
 
 My arrival \ confefs , I ftirred not out of my Inn that 
 at p l0“ Night, becaufe Fair Florence (as the Proverb 
 calls her) is not to be feen in foul Linen and 
 Riding Boots* but getting up betimes the next 
 
 Mor- 
 
Part I. Zl)t SJopaffe Of ITALY. i o i 
 
 Morning , I gave my eyes fuch a Breakfaft as 
 Princes eyes would be glad to feed upon. 
 
 But before I come to the particulars of what 
 I few in Florence , I will confider it i n great, and 
 then come to the Retail of it. 
 
 Divers good Authors are of opinion that this flounce, . 
 Town was firft built by SyllasSou\d\crs,to whom * 
 
 he had given this Soy 1, for their Services done 
 him in his Civil Wars. They built it near the 
 Current of two Rivers (Arno and Munio) and 
 from thence it was called at firft Fluentia (as 
 Coblentz, in Germany ,firom the meeting of Rivers, 
 is called Confluent ia. Afterwards by the Inhabi- 
 tants it was called Fkrentia , by reafon of the 
 fruitful foyl which made it flourifh with all de- 
 licacies; as alfo for the flourifning Wits of the 
 Inhabitants, who were fo famous antiently in 
 point of Wit, that the very 'Romans Uted to fend 
 their Children firft into Tufcany , to be bred in 
 Learning- and Religion , and then into Greece , 
 to learn Greek and* Vhilofophy. 
 
 Having enquired the Name of this Town, I 
 began to defire its better acquaintance, and at- 
 tained it eafily in a Months fpace which I (pent 
 here : The things I obferved moft, were 
 thefe : 
 
 i. The Chapel of S. Laurence , which is the The Char 
 neateft thing that ever eye beheld. All the i n-P el °f s • 
 fide of it is to be over-crufted with Jafper f aurence * 
 Stones, of feveral Colours and Countrys, with 
 other rich Stones, all above Marble, and all 
 fo neatly polifhed and fhining , that the Art ^ 
 here exceeds the! Materials, Xhis Chapel is 
 round , and round about are to be fixed 
 H 3 within 
 
my Z mym Of ITALY. Part I 
 
 within the Walls, as high as a Man can reach, 
 the Tombs of all the Great Dukes of Florence , in 
 a moll gallant manner, and of moft exquifite 
 polilhed Stones , with a great Cujhion of tome 
 richer Stone, and a Ducal Crown of Precious 
 Stones repoling upon that Cujhion. Over thefe 
 Tombs thO Statues of all the Great Dukes, at full 
 length, and in their Ducal Habits , ail of Brafs 
 gilt, are to be placed in Niches round about the 
 Chapel. The Roof is to be Vaulted all over 
 with an over-crufting of Lapis Lcfefyli) a blew 
 precious Stone with Veins of Gold in if) which 
 will make it look like Heaven it felfi Between 
 each Tomb are inlaid in the Walls, the Arms, or » 
 S 'cutchions of the feveralTowns of th cGreatDukes 
 Dominions, all blazoned according to their fe^ 
 yeral Colours in Herauldry by feveral precious 
 Stones which compote them : and thefe are n'ot 
 made in little, but are fair great Scutch ions made 
 purpofely of a large fize for to fill up the void pla~ ' 
 ces between the Tombs : theTownsare thefe;Flo- 
 
 rence, Siena, Fifa, Livorno, Volt err a, Arezzo, Fijloia, 
 Cortona, Monte Fulciano, &c. which contributed 
 (I fuppofe,) fomething* each of them to this 
 Coftly Fabrick. In fine, this Chapel is fo rich 
 within with its own Chining bare Walls, that 
 it (corns all Hangings, Painting, Gilding, Moiaick 
 Work, and fuch like helpers off of bare Walls, 
 becaufe it can find nothing richer and handfomer 
 than itsown precious Walls.It’s now above three- 
 fcore yearsfmce it was begun, &there are ordina- 
 rily threefcore Men at work daily here, and yet 
 there’s only the Tomb of Ferdinand, the Second, 
 perfedly finifhed. The very Cujhion which 
 
 " lieth 
 
part I. QLlje GJopitge of ITALY. 103 
 
 lieth upon his Tomb , coft threefcore thoufand 
 Crowns, by which you may guefs at the reft. 
 
 Indeed theft ftately Tombs make almoft death 
 it ftlflook lovely, and dead Mens afhes grow 
 proud again. As for the Altar and Tabernacle 
 of this Chapel , I willfpeak of them by and by, 
 when I will defcribe the Gallery of the GreatDuke , 
 where they are kept till the Chapel be finifhed. 
 
 2.The Church of S. Laurence, to which belongs TbeChurcb 
 this Chapel, or rather to which thi sChapel belongs; °f s - ZcTO ‘ 
 is a very handfomChurch defigned by Brunellcfchi * 0 * 
 himftlf.The things that grace this Church are the 
 neat double-row of round Pillars which hold up 
 the Roof of thisFabrick. The Pifture over the 
 Quire painted in the Roof, repreftnting the 
 general Judgment. IPs a bold Piece, and of 
 Fontorno : The two Brazen Pulpits wrought in- 
 to Hiftories by rare Donatello : The curious de- 
 figned Pidure of S. Anne and our BleJJed La- 
 dy , in chiaro e ofeuro , by Fra. Bartolomeo , com- 
 monly called Del Frate , is fo well a defigned 
 Piece, that a Duke of Mantua having feen it , 
 offered to buy it at any rate , but was refu- 
 ftd. The new Sacrifiy ( made to ftrve the 
 fine Chapel deftribed above) deftrves to be 
 carefully vifited , becauft of the Bodies of 
 the Princes of the Family of Me dices, which are 
 depofitated here, till the Chapel mentioned a- 
 bove be finifhed. In this new Sacrifty alfb are 
 ften the four Statues made by Michael Angelo , 
 repreftnting the Day , the Night, Aurora , and the 
 Evening ; the four parts which compoft Time, 
 by which all Men are brought to their Graves : 
 
 That which represents Night is a rare Statue, 
 
IQ4 tEije cUOpge Of ITALY. Part I. 
 
 and hugely cryed up by all Sculptors and Virtu- 
 op. See alfoin the Wall of the old Sacrify the 
 neat -Tomb of John and Peter Me dices, tons of 
 Ccfrnis , ilrnamed Pater Patriot : It’s the work 
 of Andrea Varochio . In the midft of this Church 
 before the High Altar , lies buried Cofinus Pater 
 Patriae, the raiferqfth e Me dice an Family. In 
 the Cloifier joyning to this Church, is erected 
 the Statue of Paulas Jovius the Hiftorian; and 
 near to this Statue you mount up a pair of Stairs 
 T fa Libra* to the rare Library of Manufcnpts, called Bibli- 
 7y ’ otheca Laurentiana , the Catalogue of whole 
 Books is printed dXAmfierdamkn. i 5 22, in OBavo. 
 
 3. The Gallery of the old aiace. This is 
 The great that Gallery fo famous, and fo frequently vifitecf 
 pukes by all Strangers. At your entrance into this 
 Gallery. Gallery you fee a VaR long Room made like an 
 L : on the left hand of this Gallery, there runs a 
 perpetual glafs Window;on the other fide arefet 
 a row ofPiduresin great, of thofe of the Me dicean 
 Family : under the Windows, & alfo under the faief 
 Pictures Rand a row of curious Marble Statues , 
 antientones all, and of prime hands. Over the laid" 
 Windows and Fidures , runs a clofe row of 
 lefs Pidures, reprefenting to the Life the mod 
 famous Men of later times for Learning and 
 Arms ; the Souldiers being ort the right hand, 
 and the Scholars on the left. The Statues afore- 
 laid are well nigh a hundred in all, but all rare 
 ones: Some whereof I yet remember , and they 
 are th { efe : that of Leda, of Diana , of Bacchus of 
 Hercules , of the Gladiator ftanding on his Guard, 
 of Scipio Africanus in Brafs, fhewing the antient 
 
 Habit and Drefs of the old P^omans, far different 
 
 \ • 1 ■ 
 
Parti. Cfye (Uopag# of ITALY. 105 
 
 from our modes , that of a little young Youth 
 in Brafs, with his Sword in his hand that of a 
 little Boy /leeping upon a Tou&hjlone , the Head of 
 Cicero in Marble, that of Seneca , the Head of 
 Michael Angelo Bonarota in Brafs of his own 
 hand making : in fine,the head of J Brutus, one of 
 Cafars Murderers. It was begun in Marble by 
 Michael Angelo , but informedly ; and fo left 
 by him : If you will know the reafon why he fi- 
 nifhed it not, read the diftich written in Brafs^un- 
 der this Head by the faid fculptor himfelf, thus : 
 
 M. Bum Bruti efjigiem Sculp or A. 
 de marmore ducit, 
 
 B. In mentem feeler ts Venit, & F. 
 abftinuit. 
 
 The four Corner letters fignifying that Michael 
 Angelas Bonarota Fecit. Among the Pictures, I 
 took particular notice of thefe Souldiers , of 
 Hannibal that frighted Rome , of Seif to that took Pictures of 
 Carthage and vaquifhed Hannibal, olPyrrhm that Eamm 
 made th eRomans gladto make peace with him, of Soulims. 
 Scanderbeg that made the great Turk afraid to 
 fight with him, of Venerius that helpt to win 
 ! the Battle of Lepenta , of Alexander Farnefe 
 that 'never. loft Battle , of Cortefius that found 
 out new Countries, of Magettanus that found 
 out new Seas, of Andrea • D’ Qria who beat 
 I the French by Sea, of Gafion deFbix who had 
 beat th e Spaniards by Land, if he had but known 
 how to ufe his Viftory , of the Buke of Alva , 
 who only lamented denying that he had never 
 fought a pitch’d Battel with the Turks , of 
 Anne de Montmorency , who dying, was glad to 
 die in a pitch’d Battel againft the Hugonots , of 
 
 Eccc* 
 
io 6 tllje Clopage of ITALY. Parti, 
 
 Eccelino the Paduan Tyrant, of whom no Man can 
 (peak any good , of Caftrucio of whom no Man 
 can (peak any ill ; with a world of other brave 
 Heroes , with whofe true looks I was very glad 
 natives f t° be acquainted. Among the Pictures- of the 
 learned ° learned Men I took particular notice of thefe 
 Men. Italians, to wit, Petrarch , Ariofio, Joannes Cafa, 
 Poggio, Macchiavel , Guicciardin , Paulo Jovio , 
 Sannaz,ario,Bocaccio , Platina , Brunellefchi , Michael 
 Angelo , Raphael Urhin , Columbus, Americas, and 
 Galileo, with many others too long to relate, and 
 too many to be remembred. Having thus gazed 
 our fill at thefe Statues and PiBures, and by par- 
 ticular taking notice of them, complimented - 
 the great Worthies they reprefent, we were let 
 into the great Cabinets, or Chambers which joyn 
 upon this Gallery. 
 
 The Amo- Firft, we ^ aw ^ rmor h that is, three or four 
 
 r y ’ great Chambers full of exotick curiofities : as 
 the Habits of two Indian Kings made of Parrats 
 Feathers lowed together ; the Habits of lo me 
 Januaries in Turkey , of red Velvet fet thick 
 with little Nails of gold, which they can take 
 out and drefs up other Suits with ; the habit of 
 the King of China \ the skin of a Horfe palled 
 upon a Wooden Horfe, the Mane of which 
 Horfe is kept there in a Box all at length , and 
 it is above five Ells long : This Horfe had 
 been lent to the Great Duke by the Duke of Lor - 
 rain. Then we were Ihown HanmbaPs Helmet ; 
 the Helmet of Charles the V. the Sword of Henry 
 the W of France, a curious Helmet thin and light, 
 and yet of Musket proof ; a huge heavy Helmet 
 and Sword of one of the old Paladins of France ; 
 
 c - - i 
 
Part I. CDe (Hopnge of ITALY. 
 
 the true Sword of Scanderbeg , a world of Cime - 
 tan, Scabbards , Caps , Saddles , and other Turkifh 
 Furniture fet thick with Turmoifcs in Gold ; a 
 great Gw# , whole thick Barrel is of pure Gold, 
 and yet as long as an ordinary fowling piece, 
 and as heavy as a ftrong Man can well level 
 with ; it’s valued at a 15-00 Piftols, and fhoots 
 twice as far as another Gun of Iron doth , but 
 kills (I believe,) with the fame pain that others 
 do, though with a little more honour. Here 
 is a great Pifiol of Gold. Then the buona notte , 
 or Set of Piftols , ("five Piftol Barrels let toge- 
 ther in an Iron Frame) to put into your Hat, and 
 to be all fhot off at once from thence, as you 
 feem to falute Vour Enemy and bid him Good 
 night. The Pijtol with eighteen Barrels in it, 
 all to be fhot off at once and fcattering defpe- 
 rately about a Room, fix little Cannons fet in 
 Star- wife. The little Brafs Cannon which may 
 be taken in pieces prefently, and fet together as 
 foon, and fo be carried eaflly into any Steeple, 
 or Tower: fuch Cannons as thefe might eafily 
 be carried in deep Countries, and over high 
 Mountains, every Souldier carrying a Piece. 
 The Statue in Brafs of the King of Spain , Philip 
 the Fourth on Horfeback, juft of the brightnefs 
 of that of Gold which the Great Duke fent to 
 the laid King of Spain for a Prefent ; It was 
 made by rare John di Bologna. Then I law the Ar- 
 mour for Horfe and Man of two Kings of Perfa. 
 The Armour of the Great Duke Ferdinand ^good- 
 ly Man.The King ofSweede’s Cornet taken in Ger- 
 many in a Battle. The Buckler with the Medufas 
 Head on it, painted by Michael Angelo. ATur- 
 kijh Bell to ring in time of Battle. A Horn ufed 
 
10 8 %l)t mm C Of ITALY. Part I. 
 
 in Turkey to call Men to their Mosques in ftead 
 of Bells , as we have. The head of a Halbard 
 ringing likeaiM. A Halbard to fould up in 
 three, anc| to carry under your Cloak privately. 
 A Staff of U white Cane, in which are curioufiy 
 engraven in black, theHiftories ofthe Apocalypfe. 
 It was the Duke o £ Ur bin's. In fine, the Load- 
 ftone holding up threefcore pound weight of 
 Iron; and holding one Key to another, for a 
 matter of live or fix Keys. 
 
 After the Armory, we were let into the five 
 Cabinets full of precious Jewels , Pictures, and 
 Tv *• other rare curiofities. In the firft Cabinet I was 
 lm ' ' fhown a curious Candlefiick to hang up in the 
 middle of a Room, with feveral Branches 
 fpreading from it , and all of yellow Amber , 
 including within it a world of little figures of 
 white Marble or Wax , neatly cut in little, and 
 appearing through the tranfparent yellow Am- 
 ber ; This Candle ftick was given by the Dut- 
 chess of Luneburg , to the Duke of Saxony , and 
 by him to Prince Matthias Brother to this Great 
 Duke of Florence. In the fame Cabinet 1 faw a 
 Table of poli (lied ftones of feveral colours and 
 luftre, inlay’d into Airland Flowers. The head 
 of Tiberius Ccefar in one Turkey jtone , as big as a 
 Ducks egg, and of an ineftirr&le value. A curious 
 i Cabinet, or two of Ivory Guys, brought out of 
 German y by Frince Matthias. In the fame Cabi- 
 net I faw thepidtureof Cardinal Bembo in a neat 
 Mofakk work ; and an other piece of divers 
 Birds in Mofaick alfo, rarely done by Marcellas 
 Provinciate. 1 faw alfo there divers little 
 old Pagan Idols in Iron and Brafs , a defign of 
 
 Ra - 
 
Parti. Cfje Glopage Of ITALY. 109 
 
 Raphael's own hand ; and fome good Pidures. 
 
 In the fecond Cabinet I faw two great Globes, The 2 .Ca- 
 which were made in this Room, being too great ^ mu 
 ever to be carried out, or brought into it by the 
 Door. I taw alfo here a curious Table of po- 
 liflfld ftones, reprefenting^a Town in Bohemia^ 
 with divers Pictures of Men, Horfes, and Land- 
 skips : where there is a Tree reprefented moft 
 naturally, becaufe it is repretented by the 
 very Wood of a Tree Petrefied into done , and 
 looking like Wood as it was * and finning like 
 poliffl’d Stone, asit now is. The Statues , or 
 B ufio's of three or four of the Great Dukes, in 
 Porphyry. A curious Looking Glafs over the in- 
 fide of the Door, which placed diredly over the 
 Pidure of a Man, contrads into it the Pidure 
 of a Woman (that Mans Wife) which you fee 
 plainly in it ; drawing thus Eve out of Adam 
 again by a curious reflexion. 
 
 In the third Cabinet I was {flown a curious T y c 
 Table of polifh’d Stones reprefenting perfedly binef. ~ 
 the Town and Haven of Ligorne. A great Ca- 
 binet of Ebony befet with precious Stones on the 
 outfide, and with the Hiftory of the Holy Scrip- 
 tures curioufly exprefled in miniature in feveral 
 little Squares of rich Stones fet here -and there. 
 
 In the top of it there is a German Clock , now out 
 of order, and no Man dare mend it. Within 
 this great Cabinet I faw the paffion of our Saviour 
 curioufly cut by Michael Angelo in Ivory (fay 
 they) but I believe it’s in white Wax. There 
 is alfb in it the figures of our Saviour and his 
 twelve Apofiles in yellow Amber , with their 
 Heads in white Amber : All thefe feveral Pieces 
 
 are 
 
IIO 
 
 The 4th. 
 Cabinet 
 
 mi ©opage Of ITALY. part I. 
 
 are not feen at once, but come up into fight one 
 after another, as the Man turns them. 
 
 Tins Ebony Cabinet was fent to the Great Duke 
 by the Duke of Bavaria , and it’s valued at four- 
 {core thoufand Crowns : I believe , if it were 
 to be fold, it would not yield forty thoufand 
 Crowns ; but it’s handfbme, faith Seneca , for 
 thofe that receive courtefies,to value them high, 
 Here are alfb fome Pidures of great value, as 
 the Adam and Eve of the hand of Alberto Dureoj 
 an Original Piece, valued ati^oo Crowns. An 
 original Venus of Titian. , that in the Poggio Impe - 
 riale here ( of which below) looking but like a 
 good copy of this. Here are alfb feveral Per/lan 
 Chairs , and other good Originals of prime 
 Hands. 
 
 In the 4 th Cabinet, called II Tribune we law 
 more riches than in all the others. This 7n- 
 buno is a great Room built round with a Cupola , 
 whole Vault is painted with a deep fanguinRed, 
 fet full with the {hells of Mother of Pearl. The 
 Walls of this Room are hung with green Silk, 
 and loaden with excellent Pidures of the prime 
 Mafters of the World, Titian , Raphael , Andrea 
 del Sarto , Vinci, Hans Holbain, Van dike and others. 
 The S. John Baptift is of Raphael's hand ; as is 
 alfb that of Leo the X. with two Cardinals, Ju- 
 lio Medici , and Cardinal Roffi behind him. The 
 Pidure of Southwel, Privy Counfellor to Henry 
 theV II I. is of the hand of rare Hans Holbain . 
 The Pidure of our Lady with our Saviour ip 
 her Arms, is of the hand of Andreo del Sarto . 
 The Pidure of Cardinal Bentivoglio fitting in a 
 Chair, is of the hand o fVandike. There is alfo 
 
 a rare 
 
Part I. € &e (Hoyage of ITALY. » t * 
 
 a rare Pidlure in miniature of Giulio Glorias hand» 
 and three fair Pieces in miniature of an Augu- 
 ftm Friar yet living, &nd a Man of great efteem, 
 having taken the right courfe to be famous, that 
 is, to make but few Pieces, but thefe finiftied 
 with all the patience which miniature requires. 
 
 In this Tribuno I law alfo the famous Nail, 
 half Gold, half Iron ; made by the famous At- 
 chymift Thurnheufer. They (hewed me alfo 
 a great Lump., of Gold, not yet (tamped into 
 Coyn ; two (hells .of Mother of V earl with their 
 two Pearls (till Kicking to them, and juft as they 
 grow : The Pearls are rich Pearls and round. 
 
 The two pieces of Emerauld-Rock , the one 
 fcarce formed yet into perfedt Emerauld , but 
 only begun : the other quite finifhed and green. 
 Then two clofe Cupboards within the Walls of 
 this Room, in which I law a world of curiotis 
 Cups and Vafes of Cryftal , Agate , Lapis Lazuli, 
 and other fuch curious, but brittle matter, yet 
 of rare Fabrick and Shape : they value them at 
 two hundred thoufand Crowns. The Unicorns 
 Horn, and the Alab after Pillar are not to be for- 
 gotten. The great Cabinet of Ebony (landing at 
 the further end of this Tribuno , full of antient 
 Meddals of Gold, Silver and Bra(s, of the anti- 
 ent Confuls and Emperours , all digefted into 
 their feveral Series ; and yet this Cabinet is al- 
 moft as rich without, as it contains Riches with- 
 in ; being let without with precious (tones of a, 
 vaft bignefsand value ; to wit, a Saphir as broad 
 as a twenty (hillings piece , and half an inch 
 thick ; a Ruby full as great, but far richer ; an E- 
 merauld not infcriour to the reft;, a Pearl as big as 
 
 an 
 
1 12 
 
 The $th. 
 Cabinet. 
 
 Clje £2opage Of ITALY. Part I. 
 
 an ordinary Walnut ; a world of Diamonds and 
 other lelfer Stones, but all of fo great value, 
 that this Cabinet , with that which is in it, is va- 
 lued to be worth five hundred thoufand Crowns. 
 Laftly, I faw here the great round Table made 
 of inlaid precious ftones polifhed neatly ; a Ta- 
 ble able to make the moft hungry Stomach for- 
 get its grumbling, to feed its eyes upon the urn 
 roafted Birds, which together with curious flow- 
 ers compote this admirable Table : Pearls, Ru- 
 bies, Sapphires , Cornelians , Emeraulds , Lapis La&u* 
 U, &c. are employed here artificially to the 
 making of thete Birds and Flowers You’ll con- 
 ceive better of this Table, when 1 iliall tell you, 
 that it’s worth a hundred thoufand Crowns, and 
 that it was fifteen years in making, and yet thir- 
 ty Men wrought at it daily. In the midft of it is 
 the great Ball of the Arms of the Duke of Flo- 
 rence in precious ftones. 
 
 The %th. Cabinet ftanding at the further end 
 of this Gallery, containeth the Altar and Taberna- 
 cle , which are to bp fet up in the new Chapel of S. 
 Laurence defcribed above. Having viewed them 
 fix feveral times exadly (as I did) you will per- 
 chance be of my opinion, that t his Tabernacle 
 made for to keep the Blej]ed Sacrament in, is 
 able, or, nothing is able, to make amends in 
 fome fort, to our Saviour for hiscourte Lodging 
 in Bethlehem , when he was born in a Stable and 
 lodged in a Manger. The Cryftal Pillars cu- 
 riotifty wrought, and being a full Ell long, with 
 their Capitelii of pure Gold ; the four like Pi- 
 ctures of precious Stones which were five years 
 each of them in cutting : the Variety of other 
 
 precious 
 
Part I. €1)2 dJopaffC Of ITALY. i i j 
 
 precious Hones let thick here and there, and of 
 great fize ; the neat contexture of other polilhea 
 Stones of feveral colours and luftre: the pi- 
 ctures of inlaid precious (tones , which com- 
 pote the Antependium of the Altar : the variety 
 of rich Cameos which are fet here and there, 
 and cut into Pictures : in fine, the whole com- 
 pofin e of this Altar and Tabernacle , being the 
 height of Wit and Riches, I can neither deferibe 
 enough, nor you admire fufficiently. 
 
 4.Having thus feen the Gallery and adjoyning The a*- 
 Cabinets , 1 wasprefently led into another quar^Jp*^* 
 ter of this Palace, where I faw the Great Dukes 
 Argentaria , or Plate. Entring into this great 
 fquare Room, J faw twelve great Cupboards, as 
 high as the Room, fet with excellent Plate in all 
 kinds. In one of them they fhewed me a whole 
 fervice of beaten Gold, as Dijhes , Plates, Forks , 
 
 Spoons, Knives , with a world of other rich 
 Veffels fet in Gold - 9 alfo little Pictures in 
 miniature ; curious little Cabinets befet with 
 Gold and Jewels ; a Turkish Scimetar , whofe 
 Handle and Scabbard of Gold , are thick fet 
 with Diamonds and precious Stones ; two o- 
 ther Swords with their Hilts of Gold curi- 
 oilfly wrought with Diamonds ; a Dagger fu- 
 table to one of them , and of the fame rich- 
 nefs ; a great Crofs fet thick With Diamonds , 
 and other precious Stones , a rare Cup of 
 one great Enter auld , with a cover to it of 
 the fame ; a Bafon and Ewre of Gold fet very- 
 thick with Turky Stones. In another Cupboard l 
 faw great variety of Silver Plate in all kinds. 
 
 I Iii 
 
 I 
 
 r ' a 
 
x i'4 %\)Z (Uopage Of ITALY. Part I. 
 
 In another they (hewed me a Saddle and 
 Bridle with Stirrup of Gold , all fet thick 
 with Turky Stones , Diamonds, Pearls, and other 
 rich Stones , with the Saddle Cloth , or HouJJe , 
 all embroidered with Gold and Pearl : this was 
 a Prefent from the Emperour to the Grand Duke . 
 In another Cupboard they (hewed me the four 
 great Silver Bed-pofis enammel’d here and there, 
 and fet with polifhed Stones of divers Co- 
 lours : They were made for the Marriage 
 Bed of the now Great Princefs , Daughter to 
 the late Duke of Orltans. In another they (hew- 
 ed me a curious Antependium for an Altar , all 
 of beaten Gold fet with Pearl, precious Stones, 
 and the Pifture of Cofmus the Second in the mid- 
 dle of it, of curious enammePd work , with 
 his Ducal Crown let with Diamonds very richly ; 
 all along this Antependium above runs an In- 
 (cription in Letters compofed of many Rubies 
 each Letter being two fingers long, and impor- 
 ting thefe words : 
 
 COSMUS II. DEI GRATIA MAGNUS 
 DUX ETRURI/E EX VOTO. 
 
 In another Cupboard I was (hown the Foot 
 of an Elan , and a Vifard all fet , and cove- 
 red with Turky Stones. 
 
 The great y. Defending from hence, we were led into 
 mU. the /great Hall of this Palace, a vaft Room, 
 painted on all fidcs of the Walls with bold 
 Painting, reprefenting the Viftories of the Flo- 
 rentines anciently. Here it is that on Midfom- 
 mer-day the Country People come and Dance 
 
 before 
 
Part L €lje ulopap Of ITALY. 
 
 before the Great Duke , and the belt Dancers 
 are reccmpenled with an honourable re- 
 ward. 
 
 6. From hence I was let into the long Cor- 
 ridor , or dole Gallery, which runs from the 
 New Palace to the Old , over the River, and o- 
 ver the tops of Houles , for the (pace of half a 
 mile, with many Turnings and W indings. It’s 
 •very ufeful for the Prince when he will go lee 
 his precious Treafure in the old Palace, or elfe 
 go privately and hear how Juftice is miniftred 
 there. For the Great Duke Francis gave order 
 to Buontalenti , a rare Architect, to break a Win- 
 dow from this Corridor into the great Room in 
 the old Palace, where the Magiftrates render 
 Juftice, but yet fo privately, that none fhould 
 perceive it. The Architect did it, by fetting 
 up there the Dukes Arms at large, and breaking 
 a Window behind them fo imperceptibly, that 
 the Great Duke through the little Holes made 
 in the fix Boule's of his Arms , could both hear 
 and fee how Jufiice was rendered there by his 
 Officers. And one day hearing a poor W omari 
 oppreffedby an unjuft Sentence, he lent for the 
 Judges , and reprehending them feverely , he 
 reverted the former fentence, arid hearing the 
 Caufe a-new hinifelf, pronouned Sentence for 
 the poor Woman. 
 
 7 . This long Corridor led us to the new Fa- 
 lace , called the Palazzo di Piti } becaufe it was 
 begun to be built by Luca Piti , after the deftgn 
 of Brunellefchi : but theexpences growing too 
 great for PitPs Purle, it was bought by the 
 Mother of g|bat Cofin m the 1 1 , and afterwards 
 
 I % carried 
 
 llf 
 
 The long 
 Corridor I 
 
 The ??■ to 
 PuJaee. 
 
1 16 CSje (Homage Of ITALY. Part I. 
 
 carried on by her to that perfection we now fee 
 it in, and which makes it one of the prime Pa- 
 laces of Europe. The defign of it (for it is not 
 yet all quite built) is to be a perfect Roman H, 
 with double Rooms on all Tides. As you afcend 
 up to it, by an eafie afcent from the Street, it 
 pretents you with a fair Broad-fide of building, 
 in which I counted two and twenty great Win- 
 dows all in a row, and all alike, and all of them 
 cheekt up on either fide by fine Stone Pillars. 
 The fathion of building in this Palace, as in 
 molt of the beft Palaces of Florence , is that 
 which they call in Architecture , la maniera 
 rujlica ; where great Freeftones are made ad- 
 vancing a little one over the other. Entering 
 into the Palace, we taw the fair Court ; and 
 in the end of it, the Grotta or Fountain with a 
 large Baton, in which they keep Fifh for prefent 
 ufe.Tnis Court is tquare, and open only on one 
 fide towards the Garden, but hedged in with 
 a high Terrats of Stone, whole top is level 
 The Gar- with the ground of the Garden. Beyond this 
 * en ' Terrafs and Court, lies a fine green fpot of 
 ground level with thefirft Story of the Palace, 
 and half compaffed about with a demicircle of 
 Laurel Trees high and thick. Under thefe Trees 
 of the demicircle , rite up ftone teats, fix rows 
 high, like the Seats in an Amphitheater , and 
 capable of twothouland Men, who may all fit 
 herewith eate, and behold the tports of Caval- 
 ry which are often exhibited upon this fair green 
 / tpot of ground by the Nobility ; the Great Duke 
 
 and the Court beholding all this from the Win- 
 dows of the Palace, while thereto of the Nobi- 
 lity 
 
Part I. t 2 Dfj t Oopage Of ITALY, 1 1 7 
 
 Uty and Ladies are feated conveniently in the 
 Amphitheater under the Trees. The reft of this 
 Garden is curioully let forth with Thickets of 
 Bays, clofe fhady Walks, fine high open 
 Walks over-looking both the Town and Coun- 
 try, great Ponds of Water, a World ofStatues 
 of Marble and Stone, a rare round Baton of Wa- 
 ter, with Fountains, and much wetting (port ; 
 the place for Birds and Beafts, the curious 
 Ice-Houfe ? and cool Cellar under , it, where the 
 melting Ice dropping down upon the Barrels 
 of Wine, refrefh it fo exceedingly , that in all 
 my Life time I never drunk fo cool as I did at 
 the Tap in this Cellar. But to return again 
 to the Palace from whence this Garden hath 
 led me ; from the Garden we afcended into 
 the Chambers of the Great Dukes Apartiment, TheDules 
 and found them moft fumptuous, both for con- 
 trivance and furniture. Some of them are # 
 painted over head by Pietro di Cortona the prime 
 Painter now living : others expert his return a- 
 gain from Rome , and Icorn to be painted by a - 
 ny hand but his : in another Chamber we 
 werefhown the Hiftory of Seleucus , giving to 
 his only Son Antiochus (languifhing and pining 
 away with the love of his Mother-in-Law ) 
 his own beloved Wife Stratomca ; fhewing#by 
 this ftrange and unick example , that Paternal 
 Love is greater than Conjugal. All this is rarely 
 painted upon the Wall over the Hangings. In 
 another Chamber (the Great Dukes Chamber of 
 Audience) I faw a Suit of Hangings valued at 4 w? Suit 
 a hundred and fifty thoufand Crowns : The T f 
 Ground of them is Cloth of Gold, upon which 
 I 3 are 
 
ii 8 <£&£ (Homage Cf ITALY. Parti, 
 
 are embroidered a world of Birds , Beafis , 
 Flowers, Trees, Rivers , Landskips in Silk and Sil- 
 ver ; and in fuch a rich manner, that I take 
 this to be one of the faireft Suits of Hangings 
 in Europe. In another Chamber here, I (aw a 
 rare Colledion of Pidures, all Originals, and of 
 the belt hands in the World , Titian's, Raphael's , 
 Michael Angelo's, Andrea del Sarto’s, and many 
 others. The bell of them is that of Raphael, 
 and painted by his own hand. This is the 
 belt Collodion of Pidures that ever I (aw, and 
 it belongs to Prince Leopold the Great Dukes 
 Brother and a great Virtuofo. in the Great 
 Dutchejjes Chamber I (aw half a dozen of excel- 
 lent pieces of Raphael -and others. In another 
 Chamber (The Dukes Bedchamber ) we faw his 
 curious Thermometers , or weather- glaffes , 
 which are moft curious. In another Chamber 
 (the Doors being (et open for the noncej we 
 looked through fixteen Chambers at once, and 
 all of them fair great Room? upon one Floor. 
 And after all the Rooms of this Houfe (as , the 
 Cool, low Summer Rooms, the Masking Room, the 
 (everal Apartiments^ of the Great Prince , Son 
 of the Great Duke, and of Cardinal John Carlo , 
 Prince Matthias, and Prince Leopold, all three 
 Brothers of the Great Duke , and all lodging at 
 once in this great Palace ) by (pedal favour , 
 Xhefmous we got the fight oft he Great Dukes fair Diamond, 
 Diamond, which he always keeps under Lock and Key 
 It's abfolutely the faireft in Europe . It weigheth 
 138 Carats., and it’salmoft an inch thick : and 
 then our Jewellers will tell you what it’s worth, 
 ] am (lire Monfienr Simonet in Lyons (a famous 
 ' * ' ' Jewel. 
 
Part I. <£Ije downje of ITALY. 119 
 
 Jeweller ) to whom I fhewed the weight and 
 thicknelsof it, valued it to be richly worth a 
 hundred thoufand Crowns between Merchant 
 and Merchant , and a hundred and fifty 
 thoufand Crowns between Prince and Prince. 
 
 8. Going from the 'Great Duke's Palace, we The An* / 
 fell prefently upon the Augufiins Church. T\\\sgu]lins / 
 is a neat Church defigned by Brunellefchi y and Church. 
 much beautified with handfbme Pillars. The 
 Tabernacle and High Altar coft a hundred thou- 
 sand Crowns, and yields to few in Italy for 
 neatnefs and State. Behind the High Altar in 
 
 the very end of the Church, is a rare pidure of 
 our Saviour abfolving the poor Woman catch- 
 cd in Adultery. The confufion that appears 
 in the Face of this Woman, makes it appear 
 what a rare Painter Allori was, who made this 
 Pidure. 
 
 9. Palling from hence over the Bridge ('where 
 four white Marble Statues reprefenting the* 1, 
 four Seatons of the year , Hand, all made by 
 Michael Angelo) we came to the Piazza of the 
 Gran Duca, where I faw the Equeftrian Statue 
 of Cofinus the Great in Bronze , with his Vidories 
 and prime adions in the Pedeftal of the fame 
 Metal. At the corner of the old Palace in this 
 Piaz,z,a, Hands the brave Fountain , with a Nep- 
 tune, Tritons , and Nereides. Near the Gates of 
 the Palace here, Hand two Statues of more 
 than Gygantean bulk : that of David is the 
 hand of Michael Angelo : and that of Her- 
 cules killing Cacus is of the hand of Bandimllk 
 The other Statues here in the Portico hard by, 
 are much cryrd up for rare Pieces, as that of 
 
 I 4 Per* 
 
120 tEtjc CIcptfge Of ITALY. Parti. 
 
 Perfects in Brafs ; that of the rape of the Sabins 
 in Marble; and that of J udith in Brafs, holding 
 a Sword in one hand, and Holofernes his head in 
 the other. 
 
 10. Looking up from this Piazza to the top 
 of the Palace, I beheld the high Tower mounted 
 thereupon. It’s a hundred and fifty yards from 
 the ground , and which is the wonder, it hath 
 no other foundation than the Wall of the Pa- 
 
 ^ lace and the top of the Houfe ; Hence it’s (aid 
 Florentines have three wonderful To- 
 fowers. wers : one in the Air, to wit, this Tower : ano- 
 ther in the Water , to wit, the Fanal of Ligorne : 
 and the third in the Earth, to wit, the Campanile 
 of Florence , whole Foundations arc exceeding 
 deep in the ground. 
 
 1 1 . Going from the Piazza towards the 
 J)omo y we were prefently ftopt by the Church 
 of S. Michael , a lquare flat Church , whole out- 
 fide is adorned with rare Statues * if not of 
 Gold , yet worth their weight in Gold. The 
 bell: are , that of S. Matthew in brafs made by 
 
 ThcChurch Laurent im Cion : that of S. Thomas in brals 
 cf Saint touching the fide of our Saviour , with great 
 Michael, demonftration of diffidence in his looks, is of 
 Andrea Varrochios hand. That of S. Peter in 
 Marble is excellent for the Drapery of it. That 
 of S. George in Marble is compared to the beft 
 in Rome, and hath been praifed both in Profe 
 and Verfi: that of St. Mark hath lb grave and 
 honcft a Countenance, that Michael Angelo (a 
 competent Judge) flopping one day to behold 
 it, and being asked what he thought of it, an- 
 fvvcred, if St. Mark had fuch a countenance 
 
 as 
 
Part I. ® IjC Slopagc Of ITALY. 1 2 1 
 
 as this, as it’s likely he had, a Man might 
 almoft, for his looks fake, believe all that he 
 wrote: for, never did I fee (laid he,) any Man 
 have more the looks of a good Man than 
 this. 
 
 12. Going from hence we were prefently at The Dmo ' 
 the Domo. This, 1 believe, was the fineft Church 
 in Italy when it was built. It was anciently 
 called S. Reparatas Church ; but fince it is cal- 
 led Santa Marla Florida , a fit name for the Ca- 
 thedral of Florence . The Foundations and Ar- 
 chitecture of it were contrived b yArrolfo di Lapo , 
 a Dutchman , and a la maniera ruftica , faith Va- 
 fari of it, in his Lives of Painters. It’s one of 
 the neateft Churches without that I ever be- 
 held ; being clad in white , red , and black Mar- 
 ble , but it’s only white plaftered within, fwith 
 Pillars of a dark coloured Freeftone. What 
 if the Archited of this Church were fomewhat 
 of Diogenes his mind ? and as Diogenes thought 
 the W orld would be turned up-fide down one 
 day ; fo this Architect thought that the World 
 would be turned infide out one day, and that 
 then his Church would be the faireft in theWorld, 
 and all lined with Marble : As it is, it looks a 
 little Hypocritically ; though the Strudure 
 within be of a notable contrivance. On the top 
 of it hands mounted a fair Cupola , (or Tholm) TheCupoU. 
 made by Brunellefchi a Florentine. This was the 
 firtt Cupola in Europe ; and therefore the more 
 admirable for having no Idea after which it was 
 framed; and for being the Idea of that of S. Pe- 
 ters in Rome, after which fo many young Cupola's 
 in Rome, and elfe where, have been made fince. 
 
 Hence 
 
122 
 
 ®1}Z (LlopagC Of ITALY. Part I. 
 
 Hence it is (aid, that Michael Angelo coming 
 now and then to Florence (his Native Country) 
 whiles he was making the Cupola in Rowe of 
 S . Refers Church , and viewing attentively this 
 Cupola of Florence, ufed to fay to it ; Come te non 
 voglio : meglio di te non poffo. It’s (aid alfo , that 
 Brunellefchi making this Cupola , caufed Taverns, 
 Cook-Jhops, and Lodgings to be fet in it, that the 
 Workmen might find all things neceflary there, 
 and not fpend time in going up and down : and 
 he had reafon, for this Cupola from the ground 
 below, to the top of all the Lantern , is two hun- 
 dred and two Braccie , or yards high. The firaight 
 FaJJdge from the top of the Cupola to the round 
 Brazen Ball, is thirty fix yards high. T Ball 
 is four yards wide , and capable of four 
 and twenty Men : and the Crofs at the top 
 of this Ball is eight yards long. The ftraight 
 PaJJdge up to the Ball is neatly contrived like a 
 round Chimney of white Marble, with holes on 
 both hides, and brazen fteps crofs thofe holes to 
 climb up eafily by hand and foot, the paffage 
 being clean and fmooth. From the top of this 
 Cupola , taking a perfect view of Florence under 
 us, and of the whole Country about it , with 
 the light of two thoufand Viliams or Country Hou- 
 les, (battered here and there, round about the 
 Town, we came down again to view theinfide 
 of this Church . It is about three hundred Fcot 
 long , 'from the great Door to the Quire, and from 
 thence- to the end almoft two hundred more. 
 The Quire is round and perpendicularly under 
 the Cupola, being of the fame bignefs ; and, up- 
 on folemn days, when the wax Candles are light- 
 ed round about it, it looks glorioufly : other* 
 
 wife 
 
Part I. Cfje (Hopage Of ITALY. 1 2 $ 
 
 wife in winter time it feems too dark. The 
 High Altar , which ftands in this J Quire, isplain 
 like thofe of ancient Cathedrals , and adorned 
 with a rare Statue of a dead Chrifl in white 
 marble, made by the hand of Bandinelli. Look- 
 ing up from the Quire to the Cupola, you fee it 
 painted on the infide with the reprefentation of 
 Heaven , Hell and Purgatory. The Painters 
 were Georgio Vasari, and Thaddeo Zuc chart. Be- 
 hind the High Altar are the rare Statues of A - 
 dam and Eve , by the hand of Bandinelli. Near 
 the Door of the Sacrifty you may read an in- 
 fcription, importing how that in this Town of 
 Florence had been held a General Council , where 
 the Re-union of the Latin and Greek Church had 
 been made. The Golden Diploma of this union 
 written both in Latin and Greek , and fubfcribed 
 unto by the hands of the Pope and Cardinals on 
 the one fide ; and by the Emperour of Constan- 
 tinople , with the Patriarch of Conflantinople , and 
 the Greek Bijhops on the other fide ; and authen- 
 ticated by the Leaden Seal of the Pope, and the j ta i. 
 Golden Seal of the faid Emperour, is kept in the 
 Archives, or Readers of Bologna. In this Council 7 * f 
 both the Pope of Rome , Eugemus toe IV. and Pa- 
 leologus the Emperour of Conflantinople , were 
 prefent , with the Cream of Bijhops , both of 
 the Eajlern and Wefiern Churches ; and in this 
 Council not only the Procejjion of the Holy Ghojl 
 from ihc Father and the SW was vindicated; but 
 alto Purgatory was proved to the Greeks out of 
 their own Greek Fathers , as wdl as out of the 
 Latin Fathers ; and divers other points of Ce- 
 remony and practice were aliened and made 
 
 good. 
 
 cel of Flo- 
 rence. 
 
124 
 
 In hts re- 
 Jlinction 
 of decayed 
 Intelli- 
 gence. 
 
 See Baker 
 in Ed- 
 ward the 
 Third. 
 
 Safari in 
 the Lives 
 of Painters, 
 in Cima- 
 bue. 
 
 €F;e dopage Of ITALY. Part I, 
 
 good. Unto all which the laid Emperour and 
 Patriarch , and the other Greek Bijhops (except 
 reftlefs Marcus Ephefinus) fubfcribed ; as did alfo 
 the Armenians , Ethiopians , Georgians , and Jaco- 
 bites, who all hereupon were admitted to Com- 
 munion by the Roman Church. In fine, in this 
 Church you fee the Statues of divers Saints , 
 who have been Archbifhops oLthisTown ; and 
 the Tombs of divt rs Famous Men ; as of Mar fi- 
 lius Ficinus the Platonick Chrifiian Philo fopher ; 
 of Dante the Florentine Poet , whole true Pidture 
 is yet to be feen here in a red Gown : of 
 Joannes Acutius an Enghjh Knight , and 
 General anciently of the Pifani , as the old 
 Gothick Letters fethigh upon the Wall un- 
 der his Pidture on Horfeback, told me. Yet 
 Verfiegan will not have him to have been cal- 
 led Sir John Sharp , but Sir JohnHaukwood. But 
 it imports little to me what his name was, fee- 
 ing he was a brave Englijhman , and deferved to 
 have his Tomb and Infcription here , and his 
 Pidture among the other Worthies in the 
 Dukes Gallery. Here's alfo in this Church the 
 Tomb of Brunellefchi , or Philippus Brunaltius 
 who made the Cupola of this Church ; as alfo 
 the Tomb of Giotto , who made the Campanile , 
 or fine Steeple here. In fine, here lies alfo cl 
 w^ethe famous Painter of his time. It was 
 he that firft reftored Painting again, which had 
 > been loft for many years in Italy , and taught it 
 to Giotto , Gaddi , Taffi and others, who car. 
 ried it on to a great height. 
 
 13. Near 
 
Part I. €fje CJoynrje Of ITALY. 125 
 
 13. Near toth e Domo ftands the Campanile , The Cam- 
 or high Steeple of Florence made by Giotto. It’s P an ^ e% 
 la hundred and fifty Braccie, or little yards high, 
 and half as deep in the ground. It’s flat at top 
 and crufted all over with curious little polifhed 
 Marble Stones, Marble Pillars, and Statues: 
 
 |fo that, (as Charles the V. laid ofitj if it had a 
 cafe to cover it withal, and hinder it from being 
 feen too frequently, Men would flock thither at 
 the taking off of this cover, as to fee a wonder. 
 
 'indeed it’s a kind of wonder, to fee, that in 
 I three hundred years fpace , not the leaft part 
 I of that Steeple (all crufted over with Marble) is 
 perifhed. There are divers good Statues on 
 | all fides of it, but the beft of them all is that 
 ofth e Zuccone, or Bald Man, made by Donatel- 
 lo , which he himfelf efteemed fo much, that when 
 he would affirm any thing ferioufly, he ufed to 
 fay , Allafe cloio porto al mio Zuccone : and the 
 fame Donatello having finifhed it, fpoke to it- 
 in jeft, and faid ; Favella , horfu , favella ; 0 ti 
 *■ venga il cacafangue : fuch good conciets have 
 fantaftical Men of themfelves and their own 
 works. 
 
 14. Near to the Dome alfo , ftands the Bap- The Bapti- 
 \tifiery , or round Church of St. John , where all Jleric. 
 the Children of the Town are baptized. The 
 Brazen Doors of it (three in all) are admirable, 
 efpecially that which looks towards the Great 
 Church, of which Michael Angelo being asked 
 his opinion, anfwered, That it was fo well made, 
 that it might ftand at the entrance of Faradife. 
 
 Thefe Doors are all of Brafs hiftoried into fi- 
 gures, containing the remarkable Hiftories of 
 
 both 
 
1 26 CSjE (Hopap Of ITALY. Part I. 
 
 both the TeJlaments. They were the work of 
 brave Laurentius Cion, who (pent fifty years in 
 making them : a longtime, I confefs ; but, this 
 is it which Apelles called eetemitati pingere , to 
 work things that will out-laft Brafs , and be fa- 
 mous for ever. Within this Baptijtery I faw 
 a Statue of S. Mary Magdalen of the hand of 
 Donatello ; and it’s a rare Piece, if you confider 
 Magdalen in her Pennance. Here’s alfo a neat 
 'Tomb of BaltaJJ'ar CoJJa , once called John the 
 XXIV, but depofed in the Council of Confiance 
 for the Peace of the Church. The Tomb of 
 this BaltaJJ'ar looking fomcthing like a Cra- 
 dle, may be called the Cradle of the great- 
 nefs of the Medicean Family . For fbme Wri- 
 Aifonjo ters fay > that Cofmus Medices , firnamed af- 
 Zofchi in terwards Fater P atria , being Heir of this 
 bis Com- Balt ajar CoJJ'a (who died at Florence , in the 
 pend. Hi- ^[ 0 ute of John Medices ) ;with the Money 
 3 0s that he found belonging to him after his 
 Death, didfuch good Deeds to the People, that 
 he won to himfelf the name of Pater Patriot 5 
 and to his Family that credit, which got it af- I 
 terwards the fiipream command. 
 
 1 I cannot omit here to take notice of a 
 little round Pillar in the Piazza, near this Bap- 
 tistery, with the figure of a Tree in iron nailed 
 to it, and old words engraven upon it , im- 
 porting, that in this very place flood ancient- 
 ly an Elm-Tree , which being touched cafually 
 by the Hearfe of St. Zenobius , as they carried 
 it here in Procelfion, the Tree prefently here- 
 upon budded forth with green Leaves of fweet 
 Odour, though in the Month of January . In 
 
 memory 
 
Parti. {£fje (EJopfljje Of ITALY. 127 
 
 memory of which Miracle, this Pillar was fet 
 up in the fame place for a memorial. 
 
 1 6. From thence going to the Church ofS TieCburcb 
 Mark belonging to the Dominicans , 1 faw there Mur 9 
 the Tomb of S. Antoninus , Archbifhop once of 
 
 this Town, and a Friar of this order. The 
 I Tomb is under the Altar, in a neat Chapel on 
 ; the left hand, made by John di Bologna, in this 
 ! Church alfo I faw a rare Pidure ofS. Mark, made 
 by Bartholomew del Fr ate , it ftands full in your 
 fight as you enter into the Church ; and a Man 
 muftbeblind not to fee it, and dull notto like 
 it. On the left hand, as you enter into the 
 Church, is the Tomb of Ficus Mirandula , com- 
 ! monly called the Fhoenix of Princes , with this 
 Epitaph written upon the fide of the Wall ; 
 
 Joannes jacet hie Mirandula , cat era norunt 
 
 Et Tagus & Ganges, for fan & Antipodes. 
 
 ! Near this Tomb is a fine Figure upon an Altar, 
 where two Little Angels are made playing upon 
 Mufical Inftruments. Thefe Angels are held to- 
 be the rareft Pieces that can be feen. in 
 Painting. They are ofthe hand of Bartholomew 
 delFrate . In the Convent of thefe Friars I law 
 often their Still-Houfe, where they make and 
 fell excellent Extradions and Cordial Waters. 
 
 There is alfo a neat Library here filled with 
 good Books. 
 
 17. Turning from hence on the left hand, I rhe An* 
 came prefently to the Annunciata , a place of rmchuk 
 great Devotion, The Pictures of Faith and Cha- 
 rity 
 
28 
 
 GJopage of ITALY. PartL 
 
 rity over the Arch in the Antiporto, or open Porch 
 built upon Pillars, are of the hand of Jacomo 
 Fontomo , being but yet nineteen years old ; 
 which, when Michael Angelo firft faw, he faid, 
 This Jacomo , if he continue thus, will carry 
 up Painting to the skies. Entering into the lit- 
 tle Court that ftands before the Church Door, 
 you fee it painted round about in Frefco by rare 
 hands. Thole pieces that Andrea del Sarto made, 
 are the beft,and his Head in white Marble is fet 
 in the Wall. In the Cloyfter , over the door that 
 goes into the Church, is leen a rare Pi<fturein Fref 
 co , upon theV Vail, of thehand of Andrea del Sar- 
 to. It reprelents our B. Lady with our Saviour up- 
 on her knee, and S. jofeph in a cumbent pofture , 
 leaning upon a Sack full ftuft, and reading in a 
 Book. ThePifture of the hlejjed Virgin is ad-^ 
 mirable forfweetnefs and Majefty. This Pi- 
 cture is called La Madonna del Sacco , and it got 
 Andrea luch credit , that Titian himfelf prefer- 
 red it before all the pieces he had ever feen , and 
 ufed often to fay , that it grieved him , that he 
 could not often fatiate his light with thebehold- 
 ing of fo rare a Pi&ure : and Michael Angelo 
 talking once in Rome with Raphael Urhin con- 
 cerning Painters , laid thus to him : There is 
 <vn huom corto , a little fellow in Florence ( meaning 
 this Andrea ) who , had he been employed in 
 great matters as thou art, w uld make thee 
 fweat again. Virtuofi make a great difpute which 
 of thofe three Painters was the molt excellent ; 
 
 
 Raphael Urhin , Michael Angelo or Andrea del 
 Sarto. But the wifeft give every one his parti- 
 cular praife or excellency : Raphael was excel* 
 
 lent 
 
Parti. tCftc aopajye of ITALY: 329 
 
 lent in color i : Michael Angelo in defign : and 
 Andrea in making things Teem to be of rilievo , 
 and look asG^made them, that is, pulpy, and 
 rifing up like living flefh. Having thus admired 
 the work of Andrea , We entred into the 
 Church of the Annunciata , and there faw the 
 curious Silver Altar, behind which, upon the 
 Wall, is kept the miraculous Pitture of the 
 f Annunciation, which gives the name of Annunci - 
 at a to this Church. The little Picture of our , 
 i Saviour , about a foot and a half long which 
 isfeen upon the out-fide of the Tabernacle , is of 
 j the forefaid Andrea's hand, and much efteemed. , 
 
 In this Church lyeth buried Baccio BandinelB, 
 a famous Sculptor, in a curious Marble Tomb, 
 with his own and his W ives Pifture engraven in 
 Marble with his own hand. Behind the Quire lies , 
 buried Joannes di Bologna ,a famous Sculptor al(o, 
 as hisfeveral works in Florence (hew him to have 
 been; as the Raft of the Sabins before the old 
 PalaceiThe Centaure in the Streets.TheChapel of 
 S.Antoninusm S*Marks Church.' This Chapel in the 
 Annunciata here, and the golden Horfe and Man 
 (poken of above in iheDuke’s Armory, do witnefs. 
 
 18. From hence, having firft feen the Statue 
 of the Great Duke Ferdinand on Horfeback in 
 ijBrafs, which hands in the Piazza before the 
 Annunciata , I went to the Church of the Fran - 
 eifeans , called Santa Croce. This Church is of a SanR:i r 
 large bulk and height, but fbmewhat tod dark. Croce * 
 The fide Altars are many, and cheeked with 
 round Pillars , and adorned with , excellent 
 Pi&ures. The Pulpit Would become a Chry- 
 fofiome , or a Chryfologue : IBs of white Marble , 
 
 K in 
 
i jo Clje Ooyage of ITALY. Parti. 
 
 in which are graven the moft notable Aftions of 
 S. Francis in a bajfio rilievo. I never beheld it, but 
 I found feme new graces in it. Somewhat be- 
 hind it, near to a little door, is the Tomb of 
 Michael Angelo, the Trifimegifi of Italy, being the 
 greateft Painter, the great eft Sculptor, the great- 
 eft Architect of his time. Hence over his 
 Tomb, and under his Pifture, are placed three 
 Women in white marble reprefenting Archi- 
 tecture, Painting , and Sculpture , holding in their 
 hands the feveral inftrumentsbelonging to thefe 
 profeflions. If you ask me whether of the two. 
 Painting, or Sculpture, is to be preferred, though 
 a blind Man being chofen judge once of this 
 queftion, when he was given to underftand that i 
 in the fmooth Painting there were Heads , 
 Arms, Legs, Hands and Feet, as well as in the 
 bulky Statue which he had felt, judged prefently 
 for Painting ;yet Michael Angelo himfelf prefer- 
 red Sculpture before Paintings the Body is to be 
 preferred before the Superficies of a Body .But to 
 return again to the Tomb of this great Artifi, 
 
 I found fome words upon the Tombflone, but 
 thofe to dull and hard to be read in that dark 
 corner, that one in the Company chofe rather • 
 to make him a new Epitaph, than read that 
 which is written there : and it was this ; 
 
 Cur indignemur mortales morte perire ? 
 
 Ecce,fiupor mundil hie Angelas ip/e per it. 
 
 And I think the modern Roman was of the 
 tame mind too, when he chofe alfo to make him I 
 this Epitaph .- 
 
 Roma 
 
Part I. <EfjC <Hot>W Of ITALY. 
 
 Roma mhi mortem tribuit , Florentia vitami 
 Nemo aim pellet nafci, & obire, locis . 
 
 
 Jnthemidft of this Church I found buried an • 
 Englijh Bifljqp, called Cat rich who had been 
 Embajfadour here from England, and likely in 
 the time of the Council of Florence. His Arm 's 
 were three Cats Argent in a Sable Field. In fine, 
 at the very end of this Church, on the left hand, 
 
 (lands a neat Chapel, with a Painted Cupola , 
 belonging to the Family of the Ncclmi, in which 
 Chapel there are excellent Statues and Pi- 
 ctures. 
 
 19. Not far from hence Hands the Ahbadia, The Abbey. 
 an Abbey of Beneditiin Monies. In the Church 
 
 is the Tomb of the Founder of this Abbey , a Ger- 
 man Nobleman , called Conte Hugo , who com- 
 manded Tofcany under the Emperour Otho the 
 III. The occafion of building this Monaftery 
 and many others, by this Hugo , is too long to 
 tell, and perchance would not find belief every 
 where. It’s told publickly every year upon 
 S. Thomas his day in high Majs time here, by 
 fome one or other of the chief Wits of the Aca- 
 demy of the Crufca ; and he that’s curious to 
 know if, may here it there, as I did, with great 
 (atisfadion. 
 
 20. From thence I went to the Chtrch of S. Mmd 
 Santa Maria Novella belonging to the Domini* Novella, 
 cans. Here it is, that the Council of Florence , 
 
 (poken of above, was held. There are many 
 
 good Pidures in this Church, as alfo divers, 
 neat Tombs of holy Men and Women, and o- 
 thers: among which, that of Jofeph , Patriarch’, 
 
 K x of 
 
ij2 Cije (Uopage of ITALY. Parti. 
 
 of Conjlantinople, w ho had been the blefled oc- 
 cafion and inftrument of reducing the Greek 
 Church to the right Faith again, is remarkable. 
 It’s on the right fide of the Church. 
 
 The statue 21 • R eturn * ln g from hence along the River 
 of Justice, fide, we came to the High Pillar with the 
 Statue ofjuftice in Porphyry upon it. It was e- 
 reded here, becaufe it was in this very place 
 where Cofmm the Great , heard the news of the 
 reduction of Siena. A witty Nobleman feeing 
 this Statue of Jufiice upou fo high a Pillar, 
 faid that Juftice here was too high placed for 
 poor Men to arrive to it. Another obferved, 
 that Juft ice there turns her back to the Courts 
 of Juftice, which ftand not far from thence. 
 
 Poggio lm - 22. Having thus vifited the chief things in 
 
 perhk. the Town, I vifited fome places out of the 
 Town; and chiefly, the Poggio Imperiale , a 
 Villa belonging to the Great Dutchefs , and about 
 a good mile diftant from the Town. In this 
 houfe I few rare Pictures, and great ftore of 
 them, the Houfe being furnifhed with nothing 
 elfe. In one Gallery are the true Pictures of di- 
 vers late Princes of the Houfe of Auftria , of the 
 Houfe of Medices , and of other Princes their 
 Allies. In other Rooms we few a world of 
 rare Pidures, as the Venus of Titian , though I 
 think it be but a Copy; the admirable S. Hie- 
 rom of Alberto Dureo : a Magdalen of Raphael's 
 hand : a St. John Baptifi of Caravagios hand : 
 an Adam and Eve of Alberto Dureo : the Piety 
 of Pietro Perugino , that is, the Pidure of our 
 Blejfed Lady with our Saviour dead upon her , 
 knee : S. John Evangelijt , and three other Per- 
 
 fons 
 
Part I. SJopage Of ITALY. 1 3 ? 
 
 Ions ftanding, or kneeling by , with weeping 
 Faces, and molt fad looks; it’s one of the moft 
 moving Pieces that I ever beheld. Then the 
 Titture of the A '.jjumptim of out Lady in the 
 Chapel, ofthe hand of Andrea delSarto ; with a 
 World of other moft exquifite pi&ures. The 
 little neat Oratory in this Houfe, called the O- 
 ratory of the Great Dutchefs , curioufly inlaid into 
 Flowers, by polifhed Stones of divers colours ; 
 that is, a whole clofet of (hining Marble inlaid 
 into Flowers, is the neateft little Room that 
 ever I few. In fine, the little Grotte, and the 
 Statue of Adonis made by the hand of Michael 
 Angelo are much efteemed. 
 
 23. Another day we went to Tratolino , a Trite- 
 Villa of the Great Duke , fome fix Miles diftant Uw ? 
 from Florence. Here we few in the Garden 
 excellent Grots, Fountains , Water-works , Shady - 
 Walks , Groves, and the like, all upon the fide of 
 a Hill Here you have the Grotte of Cupid 
 with the wetting-ftools , upon which, fitting 
 down, a great Spout of Water comes full in 
 your Face. The Fountain of the Tritons over- 
 takes you fo too, and wafheth you foundly. 
 
 Then being led about this Garden, where there 
 are ftore of Fountains under the Laurel Trees, 
 we were carried back to the Grot } that are 
 under the Stairs, and few there the feveral Giuo- 
 chi d ’ Aqua : as that of Fan ftriking up a melo- 
 dious tune upon his Mouth-Organ at the fight 
 of his Mifirifs , appearing over again# him : 
 that where the Angel carries a Trumpet to his 
 Mouth , and foundeth it ; and where the 
 Country Clown offers a Difh of Water to a Ser- 
 K 3 p e V^ 
 
1 Cfje (ftopage Of ITALY, Parti. 
 
 pent. who drinks of it, and lifteth up his head 
 wh<pn he hath drunk : that of the Mill which 
 feerns to break and grind Olives : the Taper 
 Mill: the Man with the Grinding-Stone : the 
 Saracens head gaping and Ipewing out Water: 
 the Grotte Galatea, who comes out of a Door 
 in a Sea Chariot with two Nymphs, and faileth 
 a while upon the Water, and fo returns again 
 in at the lame Door : the curious round Table 
 capable of twelve or fifteen Men, with 
 ; a curious Fountain playing conftantly in the 
 midft of it , and places between every Tren- 
 cher, orPerfon, for every Man to fet his bottle 
 of Wine in cold Water : the Samaritan W oman 
 coming out of her Houfe with her Buckets to 
 fetch Water at the Fountain, and having filled 
 her Buckets, returns back again the lame way : 
 in the mean time you fee Smiths thumping. 
 Birds chirping' in Trees , Mills grinding, and 
 all this is done by water, which fets thefe little 
 inventions a-work, and makes them move as it 
 were of thentfelyes ; in the mean time an Or- 
 gan plays to you, while you dine there in 
 Brefco at that Table, if you have meat. Then 
 the neat Bathing Place , the Pillar of petrefied 
 Water , and laftly, the great Pond and Grotta 
 before the Houle, with the huge Gy ant Hooping 
 to catch at a Rock to throw it at Heaven. This 
 Gyant is fo big, that within the very Thigh of 
 him is a great Grotte of Water, called the 
 Grotte of Thetis and the Shell Fiftes all (pouting 
 out Watey. 
 
 I ki » . 
 
 24. I went 
 
Part I- CSedO!pafl:eonTALY. 1 
 
 24. I went alfo to Lampeggio, a Villa fbrne Lmpaggjo* 
 five miles diftant from Forence , belonging to 
 Prince Matthias. It’s curioufly adorned with 
 Pictures, efpecially Battles of the hand of Tern- 
 pefia. Here I law arcurious Cabinet of Coral and 
 enamelled work. The fine Giuoco di Mecha , or 
 Turkijh play, the curious Glafles, and little 
 Armory. 
 
 25-. Returning to the Town again, we law rh ^ 
 the Great Dukes Stables full of excellent well bIeSm 
 managed Horfes. 
 
 26. Near to the Stables ftands the Serraglio 
 where the Wild Beafis are kept , which they ea s ' * 
 make fight often againft one another. Here 
 I fa w Lyons, Leopards , Tygers , Bears , Wolfs , 
 
 Wild Boars and Foxes, all which they can let out 
 feverally at the Doors of their feveral Dens, 
 into a fair Court to fight, and when they have 
 done , they can bring them back again into 
 their Dens by a fearful Machine of Wood made 
 like a great Green Dragon , which a Man within 
 it roles upon wheels ; and holding out two 
 lighted T orches at the Eyes of it, frights the 
 fierceft Beaft thereby into his Den. The Prince 
 and the Court in the mean time franding high 
 above may fee the Combats of thefe wild 
 Beafts with eafe and without danger. I have 
 read, that a Lyon here once efcaping out of this . , 
 
 place by chance, and running up and down Petm* 
 the Streets, met at laft (all others flying into Romual- 
 Houfes ) a little Child, who had neither fear nor dus. to. u 
 wit enough to retire; and feized upon him. M- 
 The Mother of the Child hearing in what 
 cafe he was, ran out prefently , and calling 
 K 4 he? 
 
Zlty dOpage Of ITALY. Fart L 
 
 her felf upon her knees with Tears in her eyes, 
 and humble Poftures of Supplication, moved fb 
 the Lyon to pity, that he rendered her the Child 
 without hurting it, or the Mother of it. 
 
 { 27. I Taw alfo here divers Palaces of No- 
 blemen upon occafion of their Fefiine. For it is 
 the Cuftom here in Winter to invite the Chief 
 Ladies of the Town ^Married Women only) 
 to come to play at Cards in Winter Evenings 
 for three or four hours fpace ; and this one 
 night in one Palace, another night in another 
 Palace. 1 Thither the Ladies go, and find the 
 Houle open to all Comers and Goers both La- 
 dies and Gentlemen , that are of any Garb. In 
 every Chamber the Doors are fet open, and for 
 the molt part you (hall fee eight, or ten Cham- 
 bers on a floor, going out of one another, with 
 a fquare Table holding eight Perfbns, as many 
 Chairs, two Silver Candlefticks with Wax 
 Lights in them, and ftore of Lights round about 
 the Room. At the hour appointed, Company 
 being come, they fit down to play, a Cavalier 
 fitting between every Lady , and all the Wo- 
 men as fine in Cloths and Jewels, as if they 
 were going to a Ball. The Doors of all thefe 
 Rooms being open, the light great, the Women 
 glittering , and all glorious, you would take 
 thefe Palaces to be the Enchanted Palaces of the 
 Old King of the Mountains. Any Gentlemen may 
 come into thefe Palaces and ftand behind the 
 Gamefrers, and fee both how modeftly they 
 play, and how little they play for. In the 
 mean time there’s a Side Chamber always open 
 for Gentlemen to go into , and refefh themfelves 
 
 with 
 
Part I. Cfje (Hopage of ITALY. 137 
 
 with Wine ftanding in Snow, or with Limo- 
 nade, or fome fuch Cooling Drinks*, which are 
 alfo offered to the Ladies. In a great Room 
 below, at the entrance of the Palace, there is 
 a long Table for Gamefters that love to play 
 deep, that is, that love to play only for Mo- 
 ney. 
 
 The Florentines enjoying by the goodnefs and Their 
 Wifdom of their excellent Prince, the fruits of sports* 
 Peace, have many other Recreations , where 
 the People pafs their time chearfully, and think 
 not of Rebellion by muttering in corners. For 
 this reafbn , both in Winter and Summer they 
 have their feveral divertifements. In Winter 
 their Giuoco di Calcio (a play fomething like our ji Giuoco 
 Foot-ball, but that they .play with their hands) di caldo. 
 every night from the Epiphany till Lent , with 
 their Principi di Calcio. This being a thing par- 
 ticular to Florence , deferves to be deferibed. 
 
 The two Factions of the Calcio , the Red and the 
 Green , choofe each of them a Prince , fome 
 young Cavalier of a good Purfe. Thefe Prin- 
 ces being choofen, choofe a world of Officers , 
 and lodge, for the time, in fome great Palace ; 
 where they keep their Courts, receive Emtbaffia- 
 dors , from one another, and give them publick. 
 Audience in State, fend Poll to one another 
 complain of one anothers Subjects, and take 
 Prifoners from one another ; hear their Coun- 
 sellors one after another, diffwading from , or 
 perfwading to War ; give Orders for fettling 
 their Affairs at home, hear the Complaints of 
 their Subje&s, jeer their Enemy Princes in Em- 
 battles , and at laft refolve to fight , with pro- 
 claim- 
 
1 38 Cf)£ SJopage of IT ALY. Part I. 
 
 claiming War. During thefe ferious Treaties, 
 which laft for many nights, the Secretaries of 
 State (two prime wit s) read before their (e- 
 veral Princes Bills for regulating and reforming 
 the abufes of their Subjeds ; and read openly 
 Petitions and Secret Advices : in all which they 
 jeer a world of people in the Town, and fhow 
 prodigious Wit. In fine, having fpun out thus 
 the time till near Carnavale or Shrcve-tide , the 
 two Princes refolve on a Battle at Calcto , to 
 be fought in the Piazza of Santa Croce , before 
 the Great Duke and Court. Upon the day ap- 
 pointed, the two Princes of the Calcio come to 
 the place in a molt ftately Cavalcata y with all 
 the young Noblemen and Gentlemen of the 
 Town, upon the belt, Horfes they can find, 
 with Scarffs red , or green , about their Arms. 1 
 Having made their feveral Cavalcataes before 
 the Great Dukes Throne or Scaffold , they light 
 from their Horfes, and enter into the Lifis 
 with Trumpets founding before them, and ac- 1 
 companied with a Stately Train, and with 
 their Combatants in their feveral Liveries. 
 Having ranked themfolves a pretty diftance 
 one from the other , their Standard Bearers at 
 found of Trumpet , carry both at once , their 
 Standards to the Foot of the Great Dukes Scaf- 
 fold. This done, the Ball y or Ballon is thrown 
 up in the midi! between them, and to it they 
 go with great nimblenefs, Height, and diferetion; 
 and fometimes they fall to it indeed, and cuff 
 handfomely ; but upon pain of Death , no Ma i 
 muft refent, afterwards out of the Lifis , what 
 ever happened here ; but all animofities arifing 
 
 here. 
 
Parti. %fyz 2Japage of ITALY. 139 
 
 here, end here too. At laft, that fide which 
 throws or ftrikes the Ballon over the Rails of 
 the other fide , wins the day, and runs to the 
 Standards , which they carry away till night, 
 at what time the Conquering Prince entertains 
 them at a Fefiino di Ballo at Court, made to fome 
 Lady , and where all his Chief Officers and 
 Combatants dance alone with the Ladies at the 
 Ball, none elfe being permitted to dance with 
 them that night. Eefides thefe Paftimes, they Other Pa- 
 have once a week, dancing at the Court 
 from Twelfth-fay till Lent, at which Balls, 
 all the Ladtes of the Town are invited, to the 
 number femetimes of two hundred, and thefe 
 all Married Women, and all invited by a parti- 
 cular Ticket. Then their feveral Operas orMu- 
 fical Dramatazve aded and fung with rare Coft 
 and Art. Laftly, their publick running at the 
 Ring , or at the Faucbin , for a piece of Plate. 
 
 And in Summer, they have their feveral Dan- 
 cing Days, and their frequent Corfidi Palio upon 
 certain known days and for known Prizes, and 
 all before the good Prince, who countenanced! 
 all thefe Sports with his Prefence thinking 
 wifely, that there’s lefs hurt in publick Mirth, 
 than in private Mutinies . 
 
 Having faid thus much of Florence ,1 will now The Court, 
 fay femething of the Court , the Govcrnmeiit , 
 
 Strength, Gentry, Riches, lnterefi, Language , and 
 Learned Men of this Town. 
 
 For the Court , it’s clearly one of the belt of 
 Italy. Great Riches make it look plump, and 
 give it an excellent en bon point. The Noble 
 Palace , the Prince, his Title of Serenijfimo, his 
 
 Train 
 
f4° 
 
 The Great 
 Duke. 
 
 The Great 
 Dutchtfs. 
 
 me mvm of italy. Parti. 
 
 Train and Retinue of Noble Officers and Gen- 
 tlemen, his ft ore of Rages , Palfr enters, Guards 
 of Swijfers with Halbards , his Troop of Horfe, 
 waiting upon him, make this Gwfappear fplen- 
 did. The Duke himfelf alfo, who makes this 
 Court , makes it a fine Court. His extraordinary 
 Civility to Strangers, made us think our felves 
 at home there. He is now above Fifty, and 
 hath an Auftrian Look and Lip, which his Mo- 
 ther Magdalena of Aufiria , Sifter to the Empe- 
 rour Ferdinand the II. lent him. He admits 
 willingly of the Vifits of Strangers, if they be * 
 Men of condition ; and he receives them in the 
 midft of his Audience-Chamber ftanding ; and 
 will not difeourfe with them, till they be co- 
 vered too. It’s impollible to depart from him 
 difgufted, becaufe he pays your Vifit with as 
 much Wit as Civility : and having entertained 
 you in his Chamber with Wife difcourfe, he 
 will entertain you in your own Chamber too 
 with a Regalo of dainty Meats and Wines, which 
 he will be fure to fend you. The Great Dutchefs 
 too is another main Pillar of this Court. 4 She 
 is of the Houfe of the Duke of Ur bin, once a 
 SoveraigftFrjnce in Italy , but now extinft in her 
 Father, 0 who was the laft Duke * and {he had 
 been Soveraign of that Dutchy , had fhe been 
 of the Soveraign Sexe : but what Nature refufed 
 her in Sex , it hath given hpt in Beauty , andfo 
 made her a Greater Soveraign , even of Florence. 
 
 In a word, Florence the Fair, was never lb fair, 
 as was the Fair Dutchefs of Florence , when I faw 
 her firft. Of her the Great Duke hath two Sons. 
 Cofemts the Prince of To ferny hath married one 
 of the Daughters of the late Duke of Orleans. 
 
 He 
 
Part I. Oopaffe of ITALY. 
 
 He is a great Traveller, and hath vifited moft 
 of the Princes Courts of Chrifiendom . The 
 ’ Name of this Family is Medices ; a Family 
 . which hath given to the Church four Topes, and 
 to France two Queens. This Family is ancient, 
 and came firft out of Athens. It was always 
 confiderable during the Repuhlick of Florence , 
 
 : but far more, fince it hath got the ftart of all 
 the other Families fo far, as to become their 
 Soveraign. The beginning of the greatnefs of 
 this Family came from Cofmm Medices , furna- 
 med Tater T atria. This Man being, very rich 
 and of a liberal mind, (pent four hundred thou- 
 sand Crowns in publick gnd private Buildings, 
 one hundred thouland Crowns more in loan 
 Moneys to the poor Citizens. Thefe Gene- 
 rous Actions, which fnould have got him the 
 love of all Men, purchafed him the hatred of 
 fome of the great Ones , who accufing him of 
 afferting Soveraignty , raifed a ftrong Faction 
 ' againft him. The heads of this Faclion were 
 Rinaldo Alhizzi, Tala Strozzi, Ridolfo Peruzzi, 
 and Nicolo Barhadori. Thefe Men corrupting 
 the Suffrages of the Senate , caufed Cofmm to 
 be clapt up, with an intention to take away his 
 Life. Cofmm in Prifon fearing Poyfon, abftai- 
 ned from Meats four days together, and died 
 almoft for fear of being killed': At laft he was 
 refcued from this melancholy humor by his 
 honeft Keeper ; who gave him fuch affurances, 
 that he fhould not be poyfoned, that he took 
 Meat again, and kept in his vital Breath, which 
 was almoft come to his lips . Then his Keeper 
 (not content to be half courteous ) having re : 
 
 covered 
 
 141 
 
 The Medi - 
 cectn F ami* 
 if- 
 
 See Alfon- 
 fo Lofchi 
 in his 
 compeni. 
 Hiftor. 
 
142 Clje Otopags of ITALY. Parti, 
 
 covered his Body, ftrove to recover his Mind 
 too, which was fore (pent with Fears and Me- 
 lancholy; and for this purpofe brought unto him 
 the Buff on of Bernardo Guadagni then Gonfaloni- 
 er 0, the Chief Magiftrate of the Republick , 
 who with his Witty Jefts, fo cheered him up 
 with mirth, that he began not only to think 
 of living again, but alfo of getting out from 
 thence, that he might live long. To this end 
 he works with the Buff on to carry apromife in 
 Writing from him to the Confaloniero , of 1000 
 Crowns of Gold, upon condition he would 
 free him. The Buff on undertakes it, and mo- 
 ney takes with the Confaloniero , who under 
 pretence of examining the Caufe to put him 
 to death, finds him only worthy of Banifhment, 
 to which he condemns him ; and the place of 
 his Banifhment was Venice . This was it that he 
 defired, for being at Venice , he wrought fo well 
 by Friends with the People , that loved him, 
 that he was reftored again to his Country, and 
 got the Title of Pater P atria by a publick de- 
 cree, By this Title his Family grew into that 
 efteem, that it overtopt the reft, and in time 
 wrought it felf into Sever aignty. 
 
 The Go- For the Government of Florence , it is now mo - 
 vernment. nar chic al ,and Defpotical , the Great Dukes Will be- 
 ing abfolute, all great bufineffes pafling through 
 his knowledge and liking : fo that he wants no- 
 thing of a King , but the Name ; and that too 
 he almoft hath under the Nameof Great Duke . 
 
 As for the Strength of this State , it hath 20 
 Strength. Epifcopal Cities; joo little Walled Towns; 
 ftrong Forts on the Confines : and can make 
 
 an 
 
Part T. %i)Z (Udpage Of ITALY. 145 
 
 an Army of Forty thoufand Foot, Three thou- 
 sand Horfe, twelve Gallies, two GallealTes, 
 two Galleons, and twenty Ships of War. 
 
 For the Gentry , it’s a Gentry dyed in Grain ; The Gen* 
 that is, it 5 § both Witty and Rich . The 
 Air of this Country , and the Academy of the rence * 
 Crttfca haveffiarpned them into much Wit : and 
 their good Husbandry, and under- hand Traf- 
 fick hath put them notably into Purfe. For 
 they think it no difgrace to have a Banco at 
 home , and meet daily at the Exchange about 
 Traffick and Trading ; while their Wives La- 
 dy it in Coach with their handfome Liveries. 
 
 This makes them hold up their Nobility by the 
 Chin , and not only preferves their Families 
 from finking , but rather makes them fwim in 
 a full Sea of Honour : they being enabled there- 
 by to buy Great Offices for their Children in 
 other Courts, whereby they often make them 
 mount to the Higheft Dignities; when they 
 are there, no Man reproaches unto them the 
 way they took to come thither, whether by 
 Water y or by Land ; by Traffick, or by t he Sword; 
 by the School-Book , or Count-Book. If the 
 French Gentry would follow this way , they 
 might have Shooes and Stockings for theirChil- 
 dren (which fbme of them want in the Coun- 
 try ) wherewith to keep their Noble Blood 
 warm in Winter. 
 
 For the Riches of this Prince, they are about ^ches* 
 a Million and a halfoCPiaffri, or Crowns. Thefe V 
 are his Annual Revenues ; befides his jewels. 
 Forfeitures , and his Datii : which laft , are of 
 vaft profit to him. 
 
 The 
 
*44 
 
 l ntereft* 
 
 TheLan • 
 gunge. 
 
 The Aca- 
 demy of 
 Wits . 
 
 The Lear- 
 ned Men. 
 
 %\)Z mpm Of ITALY. Part L 
 
 The Intereft of this Prince is much Aufirian , 
 and confequently Spanijh ; yet not fo far, as to 
 break with France , to which he opens his Ports 
 and Pafl'agesfor his own fake. He loves to 
 have no War in Italy , becaufe he hath fome- 
 thing to lofe: and though he loves to have the 
 Tope his Friendly et he cares not for having any of 
 his Subjects Pope. A Pope of his Family filement the 
 PIT. having made him what he is, he is afraid a j 
 Pope of fome other Florentine Family would 
 ftrive to make him what he was. 
 
 As for the Language of Florence , it’s pure , 
 but in their Books, not in their mouths ; They 
 do fo choak it in the Throat, that it’s aimoft 
 quite drown’d there : nor doth it recover it 
 felf again till it come to Rome , where Lingua 
 Tofcana in bocca Romana is a moft fweet Lam 
 guage. The Academy of the Crufca , hath much 
 contributed to the enriching of this Language 
 with choice words. The rich Ditlicnary made 
 by this famous Company, and called from 
 them the Crufca , was forty years in compiling, 
 but it will be in vogue as long as Men fhall (peak 
 Italian. 
 
 Finally, for the Learned Men of this Town 
 in later times , they are thefe ; Marfilius Fid - 
 nus the Chriitian Platonick ; Dmte and Pe- 
 tr arckm Poetry: Guicciardin in Hifiory : poggio 
 in raillery : Fefpucim in Geography : Accurfius in 
 Law : Michael Angelo in Painting : Joannes 
 Cafa in Practical Morality : Naclantus in Divini- 
 ty : Galilao in Agronomy : Dom , Luigi , Ale- 
 manni , and others in Belle Lettere, 
 
Parti. VtM Storage Of ITALY. *4$ 
 
 He that defires to know the Hifiory of Fto- T ^ &W* 
 rence, let him read Giovanni ViUani ,Matth*eo Villa - Tlclm% 
 ni,Scipione Ammirato, and the Life of Gran Cofimo . 
 
 Having thus feen Fair Florence , we defired 
 to fee Ligorne , and make an excurfive journey 
 - by Pifkoia , Lucca and Pija. Pifkoia , is an ancient 
 Town in a plain Country. Of this Town is 
 Clement the IX, the laft Pope , of the ancient 
 Family o iRofpigliofi: and that is all I can fay of it: 
 for it looks baldly of it felf, either out of pure 
 old age, elfe byreafbn of its Neighbourhood to 
 Florence, which hath fleeced it, of, which I rather 
 think, by reafbn of its Civil Fadions heretofore, 
 ivhich almoft ruined it quite. 
 
 Lucca is a pretty little Common-wealth , and Laced 
 yet it fleeps quietly within the Bofbm of the 
 Great Lukes State. But that State may wifely 
 fear none, which no State fears ; and the Great 
 Luke is unwilling to meafurehis Sword, or take 
 up the Cudgels againft little Lucca , left the 
 W orld fhould cry fhame upon him, and bid 
 him meddle with his Match. This little Re- Jts Gq i 
 publick looked in my eye, like a perfect Map vernmen^ 
 of old Rome in its beginning. It's governed 
 by a Gonfalonier o and the Gentry. The great 
 Counfel confifts of 160 Citizens who are chan- 
 ged every year. It’s under the Emperours Pro- 
 tection 5 and it hath about thirty thoufand 
 Souls in it. Approaching unto it, it looked like 
 a pure Low -Country Town, with its Brick Walls, 
 large Ramparts let round with Trees, and deep ’ 
 
 Moats round about the Walls. It hath eleven 
 Baftions well guarded by the TowAfmen , and 
 Well furnifhed with Cannons of a large fize. Stre7 %^ 
 The Town is three miles in comoafs ; it hath 
 L " / thif- 
 
Its Reve- 
 nues, 
 
 Cl )t dosage Of ITALY. PartL 
 
 thirty thoufand Muskets or half Muskets in it s 
 Arfenal , eight thoufand Pikes, two thoufand 
 Breft Pieces of Musket proof, and ftore of great 
 Artillery. The whole State, for a need, can 
 arm eighteen thoufand Men of fervice, and it 
 hath about five hundred thoufand French Livres 
 a year. It was in this Town that C&far, Fompey, 
 and Craffus met, and agreed among themfelves 
 that all things inRowefhouldpafsas theypleafed. 
 
 The chief things, to be Seen here, are, the Ca- 
 thedral, called S. Martins , whole Bifhop hath 
 the Enfigns of an Archbifhop , to wit, the ufo 
 of the F allium and the Crofs , and whofe Canons 
 in the Quire wear a Rochet and Camail, and 
 Miters of Silk like Bifh ops. 
 
 2 The Town'Houfe , or Senate Houfe , where the 
 Confalomero lives during the time of his Charge. 
 
 3 The Church of S. Frediano belonging to the 
 Canon Regulars , where, in a Chapel on the left 
 hand, is the Tomb of S. Richard King of England , 
 who diedhere inhis Pilgrimage to Rome. 
 
 4 The Augufiins Church , where is feena hole 
 where the Earth opened to fwaliow up a blas- 
 pheming Gamefter. 
 
 Of this Town was Pope Lucius the III. The two 
 famous men of this Town, the one for Soldiery, 
 the other for Learning,/ were, brave Cafirucio , 
 and San&us Fagninus a great Hcbrecian. 
 
 There are five T owns more belonging to Lucca, 
 to wit, Ca-magior, Viareggia , Montignofo , Caflili- 
 cne , and Minuceiano . 
 
 From Lucca we went to Fifa , fome ten miles 
 off. This was once the head Town of a flouri- 
 fhing Republick , and then the Numantia of Flo- 
 rence, and Scorning its yoke y But now it crou- 
 
 cheth 
 
Parti. Cfte < 3 ojnip of ITALY; 147 
 
 cheth to it. It ftands in no very good Air, and 
 therefore hath been vexed with divers plagues. 
 
 The Grafs in the Streets of this Univcrfiiy read 
 me this Le&ure, and I believed it. W hereup- 
 on I refolved to ft ay here one day only, in 
 which time I faw, 
 
 1. The Domo , whole Canons officiate in Scar- Dq - wq 
 let like Cardinals . This is a neat Church for 
 ftru&ure, and for its three Brazen Doers hiftori- 
 
 ed with a fine Baffo relievo. It’s built after La 
 maniera Tedefcha, a fafhion of Building much U- 
 fed in Italy four or five hundred years ago, and 
 brought in by Germans or TedefcBi, faith Vajari. 
 
 2. Near to the Domo ftands (xlleamngmay be 
 called Jlanding ) the bending Tower, fo artificially 
 made, that it feems to be falling, and yet it * ^ 
 ftands firm: Ruiturame femper fiat ( mirum^moles. 
 
 3. On the other fide of the Domo , is the Cam- 
 po Santo, a great fquare place eloiftered about 
 with a low Cloifter curioufly painted. It’s cab 
 led the Carnpo Santo, becaufe therein is coftfer- 
 ved the Holy Earth brought from Hierufalem 
 in yo Gallies of this Republick , an. 1224. 
 
 Thefe Gallies were fent by the Republick of 
 Pifa, to fuccoUr the Emperour <^Enobarbe, in the 
 Holy Land : but hearing of his Death when they • 
 came thither, they returned home again loaderi 
 with the Earth of the Holy Land , of which they 
 
 made this Campo Santo, -/C 
 
 4. Some good Colleges there are, blit unfrequen - Co ^ 
 ted then by reafon of a late Plague.-none running s * 
 
 fafter from thePIague than Scholars, efpecially 
 when it comes near to the Schools. 
 
 y. The Pub lick Library is much enriched the Litr'ti 
 with the acceffionof Aldus Manutiushis Library. 
 
 L 2 6 The 
 
• .... X | 
 
 14 s Clje (Homage Of ITALY. Part! 
 
 The Hy- (, The Garden of Simples may be rare ; but 
 deL GXr ~ we not underftanding this Herb Language, 
 halted to the Houfe of the Knights of St. Steven. 
 
 7. This is the only Order of Knighthood that I 
 Knights of perceived In Florence ; and it’s very common. 
 
 S. Stepha- They wear a Red Crofs of Satin upon their 
 n0t Cloaks, and profefsto fight againft the Turks. 
 
 For this purpofe they have here a good Houfe . 
 and Maintenance. Their Church is beautified 
 without with a handfome Faciata of White Mar - 
 lie , and within with Turkijh Enfigns and divers 
 Lanterns of CaptaneJJe G allies .In this Houfe the 
 Knights live in common, and are well maintain- i 
 ed. In their Treafury they fhew you a grtzXBuck- 
 ler all of Pearl and 'Diamonds, won in a Battle a- 1 
 gainft the Turks. Indeed Bucklers of Diamonds , J 
 do but fhew our Enemies where we are, and 
 what they may hope for by killing us. They 
 have in their Cancellaria , a Catalogue of thofe r 
 Knights who have done notable Service a- j 
 gainft the Turks ; which ferves for a powerful 1 
 exhortation to their Succeffors, to do. and die 
 bravely. In fine, thefe Knights may marry if 
 they will, and live in their own particular Hou- s 
 fes, but many of them choofe celibate, as more 
 convenient for brave Souldiers ; Wives and 
 Children being the true impedimenta exercitus , 
 Heretofore, during the great d borders of the 
 Guelfs and the Ghibelins , Anno 1282. This 
 Town was governed by Ugolin a proud Man, 
 who ruled here defpotically. This Man invi- 
 ting one day all his Friends to a great Feaft ; 
 began in the midft ofit to brag, that nothing 
 was wanting to him : Tes f'faid one of his belt 
 Friends, becaufe one who fiartered him nof) 
 
 there's 
 
Part L CD e (Uopage Of ITALY. i 4g 
 
 there s one thing yet wanting to thee , Ugolin, fa 
 aw/, the Anger of God, which is not far from thee. 
 
 And it proved true, for prefently after, the Ghi- 
 helins rufhing into the Palace of Ugolin (chief 
 of \hzGuelfs) killed in his fight, one of his Sons 
 and his Nephew, and taking him with two o- 
 ther of hi's Sons and three Nephews, they fhut 
 him up in a ftrong Tower, and threw the Keys 
 into Arno : where the poor Man that bragged 
 even now in a Feaft, dyed foon after of Hunger; 
 having firft feen his Children and Nephews 
 dye of hunger in his Arms. A rare example 
 to teach, proud Men, that there’s often but one 
 i day between a powerful Man and a poor Man ; 
 between a great Feaft and a great Faft. Here 
 in Pifa were called two Councils, the one 1409, 
 
 ! the other 1 £i j. 
 
 From Pifa we went to LigorneftPortus Liburnus Ligotne. 
 in Latin ) thorough a pleafant Foreft. This is the 
 only Haven the Great Duke hath; and the mouth 
 which letteth in that food which fatteheth this 
 State. Wetftayed not long here, the (ealon pref- 
 fmg us to be gone, and this T own being foon (cen. 
 
 F r or the T own it’s but little, yet one of the neateft 
 Haven Towns' a Man can jfee. Heretofore it 
 was not fufferable by reafon of the bad Air ; 
 but lince Ferdinand the firft built it anew, and 
 dryed up the neighboring (gathering much 
 of the Water into a cut Channel, which goes 
 from hence to Pifa, and carries great Boats} 
 the Town is twice as wholelbme, and thrice 
 as rich as it was. 
 
 The things Ifaw in this Town were thefe. 1 . 
 
 The Mole which fliuts up the Haven.2.TheZ^7*- 
 tern which with feven lights guides in Ships in 
 L 3 the 
 
Slo^ge of IT ALY. Part I. 
 
 the night. 3. The Haven it felf where Ships \ 
 liefafe, and the little Haven, within that,tvbich 
 ferves for a withdrawing Room to the great 
 Haven, where the Galleys retire themfcives. 4. 
 The Statue of Ferdinand the firft in marble, 
 with the Statues in bron&e of four paves at his 
 feet. Thefe ^re the 4 Haves that would have 
 ftolnaway a Galley and have rowed here 
 themfelves alone ; but were taken in their 
 great enterprize. 5*. The Greek Church. 6. The 
 Cafile. 7. The Tower in the Sea where they 
 keep Gunpowder. 8. The Jews Synagogue. 
 
 9. 'YwoWindmils which are rare things in I- 
 taly ,* and therefore muft have a place here 
 among the rareties of this Town. 
 
 I found not any Academy of Wits here, nor 
 any Records of any learned Men of this Town. 
 All the Latin here is only Meum and Tmm y 
 arid their Wits are exercifed here how to make 
 good Bargains , not good Booh. Indeed what 
 fliould the Mufes do here amongft the horrible 
 noife of chains, of Carts, of bawling Sea-men, of 
 clamorous Porters , and where the Slaves of ! 
 Barb ary are able to fright all Learning out of 
 the Town with their looks, as all Latin with 
 their Language. Yet J muff confefs 3 thev ftudy 
 here belle Lettere : for, if the true Belle Lettere 
 be Letters of Exchange, your Merchant here, 
 ifyouprefcnt him a Letter of Exchange ro m 
 his Correfpondent, will read it over, and over 
 again, and ftudy upon it , before he give you 
 the Contents of it in Money. 
 
 Having finifhed this excurfive journey, we 
 returned again to Florence \ and having rafted 
 our Horfcs a day or two, we took a new rife 
 
 from 
 
^ ^ ; v -' " ■ < 
 
 Part I. inopage Of ITALY. 1 5 1 
 
 from thence to Rome , which feemed to beckon 
 us, and whither the main Torrent of our curio- 
 fity hurried us. 
 
 Some three miles beyond Florence we paffed 
 Under a Monaftery of Carthufians , leated upon a 
 round hill ; whole feveral celles and little Gar- 
 dens (walled about,) branching out on all fides, 
 like feveral Bafiions, made this Monafiery look 
 like a fpiritual Fort, or devout Cittadel. 
 
 From hence palling through San Cajfano , to; €atfi~ 
 we arrived at night at Pcggi-Bonz>i , a little ano • . 
 Town, famous for perfumed Tabaco in Powder ^?SS lBonm 
 which the Italians and Spaniards take farr more * ’ 
 frequently than we, as needing neither Candle 
 nor Tinderbox to light it withal ; nor tiling a- 
 ny other Pipes than their own Nofes. 
 
 From Poggi BonXji we came at Dinner to s - lCndm 
 Siena . This is thefecond Town of the Flo- 
 rentin State. It was heretofore a powerful Re - 
 publick , commanding threelcore miles into the 
 Country, and now and then beating the Flo- 
 rentines : but at laft, after much ftruggling.this ^ 
 
 'Wolf received the muzzle , and Siena is now e . Ams °f 
 the humble lervant of Florence. This happe- U r c )f are ' z 
 ! ned-Amoifff. 
 
 This Town is feated in a very wholdbme 
 Air and Soyl , and therefore much frequented 
 by Strangers. It’s called Sena in Latin, from 
 the Senmes, people of Gaul, who coming into 
 Italy with Brennus , built this Town. The 
 Streets are all paved with Bricks let up edge- 
 way, which makes the Town always dry and 
 near. It’s built high and low, with many high 
 Towers in it, built anciently in honour of it’s 
 well deferving Citizens, who had done fome 
 
252 Clje Oopage of ITALY. Part i 
 
 fpecial Service in the Republic k ; and this makes 
 it feen thirty miles off on Romes fide. The 
 People here are very civil, and even fociablc 
 too , which together with the good Air, the 
 good Exercifes for Gentlemen, the good Lan- 
 guage, and the great Privileges, make many 
 Strangers draw Bridle here, and Summer it at 
 Siena, the Orleans of Italy. 
 
 1 hs prime things I few here, were thefe. 
 
 The Demo, 1 The Domo, one of the neateft Cathedrals 
 of Italy , though it be built a la maniera Tedefchd. 
 It’s all of black and white marble within and 
 without. The Fronti (piece is carved curioufly 
 and fet thick with Statues. Yet it wants a 
 larger Pia%>z,a before it, to give it it’s full 
 Grace. Theinfide of this Church is very ta- 
 king. Under the roofimmediately runs a row 
 of white marble-heads of all the Popes till this 
 time. The Pavement is the beft in the World; 
 and indeed too good to be trod on ; hence 
 they cover a great part of it , with Boards 
 handfomely laid together, yet eafie to be ta- 
 ken up, to fhew Strangers the beauty of it .* 
 Its of marble inlaid with Pidures, and thofe ve- 
 ry great ones ; feveral great Marbles of fevo 
 ral colours making thelhadowsand the Lights, 
 and compofmg all together fuch a new kind of 
 ‘Mofaick work, as all Men admire , but none 
 dare finifh. This work was begun by Duccio 
 Sanefe, and afterwards carried on by Dominica 
 Beccafmni , but not finiftied by him, faith Vafa- 
 ri. T hey told me here, that it was Meccharini , 
 that made this Pavement, but I had rather be- 
 lieve Vafari . That part which they uncovered 
 for us, reprefented the Hiftory of Abraham go- 
 / " ' ing 
 
Part I. C&e (Homage 0 i ITALY. 1 53 
 
 ing to Sacrifice his Son Ifaac; and the hiftory of 
 the Macchabees ; and the like. I confefs, I (carce 
 law any thing in Italy which pleafed me bet- 
 ter than this Pavement. On the left hand The Libra* 
 (within the Church) Hands the Library, painted >> 
 with a rare Frefco , which is yetravifhing and 
 lively after two hundred years : Indeed, the 
 brave actions of Mneas Sylvius, (afterwards 
 Tope Pius II . ) which thefe Pi&ures reprefent, 
 deferve to be painted by the Sun-beams. The 
 Pi&ures are of the hand of Pietro Terugino , 
 
 Raphael's Mafter : but when all’s done, give me 
 Books in a Library , not Pictures. In the Church 
 you fee the Statues of Alexander the III, of 
 Pius II, of Paulus V, and of Alexander the 
 VII, all Popes, and Natives of Siena. 
 
 2 . 1 faw here the feveral places which S. 
 
 Katherine of Siena had made famous by her tint of Sic- 
 Devotions : as, her Chamber , where (be recei- na - 
 ved' the holy Stigmata , now turned into a 
 Chapel : the Chamber where fhe lived , with 
 other memorials of her Devotions, in the Do- 
 minicans Church ; where they alfo (hew her 
 Head , and Finger : her Body being transferred to 
 Rome , and lying in a little Chapel within the 
 Sacrifty of the Dominicans, at the Minerva. 
 
 3. The other things ordinarily fhown here 0 t p er ^ 
 are the great Hofpital : the Houfe'ofPius II. of redes. 
 the Family of the Piccolomini : t he great Piazzai : 
 the Pillar with the Wolf of Brafs upon it : the 
 Marble PtUar as you come into the Town 
 from Florence , with the Arms of the Empire 
 , and of Portugal upon it; becaufe here it was 
 that the Emper&ur met Eleanora of Portugal, and 
 married her in prefence of Mine as Sylvius then 
 ‘; v< ' ■ . Ar<h. 
 

 154 Cfie Ciopage of ITALY. Parti. 
 
 Archhijhop here, and afterwards Pope Pius II. 
 
 4. Ifaw here the Academy of Wits, called gli 
 r ^ A " Intronati: why they fhould take that ambiti- ; 
 € wix? ous name ^ know not, unlefs it be in reference 
 
 to the faying of a Philofopher, who laid, that 
 then finally Kingdoms fhould be happy, when 
 either Philofopher s fhould be chofen Kings, or 
 Kings played the Philofopher s. Indeed Arifiotle \ 
 holds, that they that are ftrongof Body, are made 
 toferve and tug at the Oar of Commands : and 
 they that are ftrong in wit, are born by nature 
 to fit at the Helm, and command others. 
 
 5. This Town hath furnifhed the Church 
 with a General Council ofan hundred and thirty 
 Bifhops, called by Nicolas the third: with three 
 great Saints. S. Bernardin , reformer of the Mi - 
 norites ; St. Katherine the holy Virgin, and/ta*- 
 tm Columhanus , inftitutor of the Order of the 
 jefuatiy a Man ofgreat Learning and San&ity; 
 with four good Pcpesy to wit, Alexander the III. 
 of the Houfe of Bandmelli ; Pius II. of the 
 Houfe of Piccolomini ; Paulas V of the Houfe of 
 Burgefi ; and Alexander the V II. of the Houfe of 
 Chip : And in fine, it hath furnifhed the World 
 with two Champions in Learning Ambrofus 
 Politi for Katharmus) who wrote learnedly a- 
 gain# Luther and Erafmus ; and Adriano Politi 
 who wrote again# Ignorance by his learned 
 
 ^ Trf> Diction ary. • ‘ 
 
 TcejriifKh W ould know in particular the Hi- 
 
 ftory of Siena , let him read Orlando Makvolto . 
 
 From Siena we went to Bon Convento 9 Tor- 
 
 gcI.L-ofno. nieriySan Quirico, incon fid arable places upon the 
 rode, and fo to Rodicofino, a ftrong Caftle upon 
 a high Hill, built by Defiderius King of the 
 
 Longo - 
 
Part I. Cfje (Hopage Of ITALY. 155 
 
 Longobards. This is the laft place of the Floren- 
 tine State , but not the leaft in Strength. 
 
 Dining here at the Great Dukes Inn at the 
 bottom of the Hill, we went to lodge at A - 
 quapendente, which is tome 12 miles off, and 
 the firft Town of the Topes State. 
 
 This Town hands upon a Hill, from which 
 the Waters trickling down foftly are laid to Aqwpen* 
 hang there, and give it the name of Aquapen - A ™ Um 
 dente. Of late this Town is made aBifhops 
 Seat by the demolition of Cajlro , & the removal 
 of the Bifhops Seat from thence hither, which 
 hath happened upon this occafion. Cafirowas a 
 Town belonging to the Duke of Parma, thither 
 Tope Innocent theX. lent a good Bifhopto govern 
 that Flock; but the Bifhop, upon his arrival be- 
 ing killed there, the Pope lent Conte Vidman(Ge - 
 neral then of the Church; with order to de- 
 
 rnolifh Caftro : and he himfelf transferred the ^'25. 
 
 Bifhops Seat from thence to Aqmpendente , and q U . 2, 
 all this according to the Canon Laiv , which or- 
 dains, that that City which kills its Bifhop 
 fhould be deprived of theBifhopsSeat everafter. 
 
 From Aquapendente we came to a little Town Bolfena. 
 called San Lorenzo, and not long after to BoU 
 fena, anciently called Urbs Volfimnfium. Here 
 it was that happened the famous Miracle in 
 confirmation of the Real prefence of Chrijts Bo- 
 dy and Blood in the Bleffed Sacrament , which 
 happened Anno 1263, and which gave occa- * 
 fion to Pope Urban the IV. to command that 
 the Feaft of Corpus Chrifii fhould be kept Ho- 
 ly-day ever after. The Miracle is related by 
 Leandro Alberti the Camden of Italy , and by 
 learned Qnuphriits Tanuhus , 19 the Life of Ur- 
 ban the IV. We 
 
i *6 
 
 The lake 
 o/Bolfena 
 
 Sofco 
 
 HdernoT' 
 
 Montefla- 
 
 fcone. 
 
 Clje CJopage Of ITALY. Parti. 
 
 We paffed alfb that morning by the fide of 
 ‘the Lake ofBolfena ; in the middle of which is 
 a little Ifland, in which Amalafuinta Queen of 
 the Of rogoths, a Woman of fingular parts, was 
 miferably murtheredbv her neareft kindred. 
 Here’s alfb a little Convent of Capucins , 
 
 Having palled along this Lake a great while, 
 we entered at laft into a Wood called ancient- 
 ly Lucus Volfnendum , and now, Bofco Helerno. 
 It was formerly a dangerous PalTage for Ban - 
 Jito's: but now it’s free from danger, fince 
 Sixtus Quintus purged the Ecclefafical State of 
 that Vermin , by making a law, that whome- 
 ver fhould bring in the head of a Bandito , 
 fhould have pardon, impunity and recompence 
 too of fome hundred Crowns, whereupon the 
 Bandits foon deftroyed one another. 
 
 From this Wood we foon came to Monte- 
 fiafeone ftanding upon a Hill. It’s a Bifhops 
 Seat, and famous for excellent Mufcatello Wine ; 
 and this Wine is famous for having killed a 
 Dutchman here who drunk too much of it. 
 The Story is true and thus. A Dutchman of 
 condition travelling through Italy , fent his 
 Man before him always , with a charge to 
 look out the Inns where the beft Wine was, and 
 there write upon the Wall, of the Inn the-word 
 E ST, that is t6 fay, Here it is. The Servant 
 coming hither a little before his Mafter, and 
 finding the Wine excellently good, wrote up- 
 on the Wall EST, EST, E ST, fignifying 
 thereby the fuperlative goodnefs of this Wine. 
 The Mafter arrives, looks for his Mans hand- 
 writing ; and finding three ES TS , is over- 
 joyed. In he goes, and* refoives to lie there : 
 
Part I. CJj Z 2l0|age of ITALY. 
 
 and he did fo indeed for here he iles (till, 
 buried firft in Wine, and then in his Grave; 
 For drinking too much of this good Wine, he 
 dyed here, and was buried by his Servant, in a 
 Church here below the Hill, with this Epitaph 
 upon his Tomb, made by the fame Servant, 
 Proffer E ST, E S T, her us mens mortuus eft. 
 It was here alfo , that the Gallantry of the 
 brave Roman General Camillas appeared very 
 much. For while he was befieging this Town, 
 called then Phalifcum or Phaleus , a treacherous 
 School-Mafter , having brought unto him the 
 chief of the young Youths of the Town, whom 
 he had deceitfully drawn unto the Roman 
 Camp, under pretence of taking the Air abroad, 
 by which means Camillas might have frighted 
 their Parents to an unworthy Rendition : the 
 brave Roman who fcorned to overcome by a- 
 ny other way than that of. Gallantry, caufed 
 the School-mafter to be ftripped and his hands 
 to be tyed behind his back, and to be led into 
 the Town again, with the little youths whip- 
 ping him as he went, till he had brought them 
 home again. This noblenefs o {Camillas took the 
 Town prefently, becaufeit took with the Towns- 
 men ; who admiring the Roman Generofity j fub- 
 mitted willingly to Camillas , who had chofen 
 rather to take Towns by his own Valour than by 
 other Mens iniquity: Indeed, ^as Valerius Maximus 
 faith)it did not become Rome built by theSon of 
 Mars, to take Towns otherwife than Martially . 
 
 From Montefiafcone we went down the Hill by 
 an eafie defcent untoTzfer^.Thisisan Epifcopal 
 Seat, ftandingin a wholfome Air, and therefore 
 called Vtt erhum, as it were. Vita Urbrnn. Here 
 
 are 
 
 *57 
 
 Fherbu 
 
1 58 %l)Z myw Of ITALY. Part L i 
 
 are excellent Fountains of Water, and (tore of 
 them : but it’s pity none of them run with good 
 Wine, to make amends for the bad, which are 
 molt of them Vinicotti. The two Fa&ions here 
 of the Gatti and the Maganeftf thefe Handing for 
 the Urftnifthofe for the Colonnefe ) ruined hereto- 
 fore Viterbo over and over again. In th eDomo 
 there are the Tombs of four Popes, as alfo in the 
 Francifcans Church fome Tombs of Topes and 
 of S. Rofa : you fee the body of that Saint yet 
 entire, though buried above 100 years a- 
 go. She lies along in her Tomb, and is feen 
 by the drawing of a Curtain from before her, 
 The Acade - Here’s an Academy of Wits called Gli Ofti- 
 my of nati , to fhew perchance , that a Man cannot * 
 wits. be learned without obflinate labour and pains. 
 
 Hence the Poet makes the learned Man to be . 
 one who multum Judavit & alftt : and Perftus tells 
 us, that his delight, was to grow pale with ob- 
 ftinate night Study : Velle fuum cuique eft, &c. 
 
 At me noPlurnis fuvat impallefcere chartis. 
 
 About a mile from Viterbo Hands a neat 
 Church and Convent , called Madomta del Querco , 
 and as far again beyond that, a fine Houfe* 
 with a Garden of Water-works and Fountains, 
 worth feeing. 
 
 Caprarola. From Viterbo (being upon our own HorfesJ we 
 went to fee Caprarola , a Hately Houfe belong- 
 ing to the Duke of Parma. The Houle is held 
 to be one of the fineft in Italy for Architecture. 
 
 It Hands a little out of the Travellers rode, but 
 not of his way : for it’s much in a Mans way 
 to fee fuch a lovely Houfe as this. It Hands up- 
 on the fide ofaHill, and from one of the Bal- 
 conies it fhews you Rome fome two and thirty 
 
 miles 
 
Part t Qty (Hopage Of ITALY. 1 59 
 
 miles off. It’s built in a Pentagon (if I remem- 
 ber well ) without , and round within. The 
 Chambers for all that, are fquare , and well 
 proportioned. The chief of thefe Chambers 
 
 are painted by the hand of Pietro Orbifta , flou- 
 rifliing thus upon the noble actions of Pauhis 
 III. Among the* other Chambers, the whijfie- 
 ring Chamber is curious , for four Men here 
 ftanding, each one in one of the four corners of 
 L this great Chamber, hear di&indly what any 
 of them whifpers in a low tone in his Corner, 
 
 I their faces being turned to the Wall; and yet 
 ! thofe that ftand in the midft of the Chamber 
 cannot hear it. The other Chamber is no lets 
 curious, where ftanding in the midft of it, and 
 ftamping hard with your foot, thofe that are 
 without at the door think they hear the cracks 
 or reports of Pifiols. The other Rooms here alfo, 
 as the Kitchin , all of one Stone, the low Cave 
 alfo with the Pillar in it, cut likewife out of a 
 rock and bearing up the whole Pavement of the 
 round Court which lets light into this Cave by 
 divers round grates ofiron, are worth the behold- 
 ing: Then the Garden upon the HM-fidew\th the 
 : great variety of Water- works. Grots and wet- 
 I ting fports, are all curious things. Having wal- 
 ked thisGarden about,you lldc-fire after fo much 
 Water, a little Wine, which will not be wanting 
 to you, from the rare Cellar lying under thegreat 
 1 Terrajje before the Houfe ; and perchance you’ll 
 think the wine-works here asfine as the Waterworks* 
 
 From Caprarola we fell into our way again at 
 Monterofa , from whence palling by Bacano , and 3 ^^ 
 the Hofteria del StortOyWe came at night to Rome. 
 
 All the way from Monterofa to Rom almoft, 
 
 be*-' 
 
x6o Ci)C dlopase of ITALY. Part I e 
 
 belonged anciently to the Veientes (fo called, 
 faith Berofus , from their carrying about with 
 them in Carts, all their goods.) Near to Bacan 
 is a Lake out of which runs the River Varca; 
 * anciently called Cremera , near unto which the 
 
 Veientes killed in one Battle,three hundred Fabii; 
 that is, the whole family of the Fabii , (who had 
 vowed themfclves to death for the Common- 
 wealths fervice) except one'little boy not able 
 to bear arms , from whom Fabius Maximus the 
 terror of Hannibal , and Romes buckler ftp, fcended. 
 Veiu Upon this rode alio Rood anciently the T own 
 Veil, a Town which held out ten Summers a- 
 gainft the Romans , and ftood in need of no lefs 
 Man than Camillas to take it. This Town was 
 once fo great that Rome being deftroyed almoft 
 by the Gauls, the Senators held a Confutation in 
 the Comitium , whether they fhould retire to Veit, 
 and leave Rome quite, or rebuild again Rome’s 
 walls; but during this Confutation, the Troops 
 returning out ofGarrifon, arrived by chance in- 
 to the Comitium, where the Centurion entring,and 
 not thinking the Senators had been there, cryed 
 Valer. out to the Standard-bearer ,Signifer ftatue fignum. 
 Max. I i, 0 pi me manebimus ; which words the Senators 
 e ' hearing, cryed out to one another Actifimus 
 omen ; and prefently laidafide all further thought 
 of retiring to Veil. 
 
 Some twelve miles before we came to Rome, we faw the 
 Cupola of St. Peters Church , and were as glad to fee it afar 
 off, as the weary Trojans in JEneas his Company, were glad 
 to fee Italy, after fo much wandering. Some few hours af- 
 ter, having paffed by' an old Tomb, which fome call Nero's 
 Tomb , and over the Ponte Molo ( of which more in my 2. 
 Part ) we entred into Rpme by the Via FIaminea> and Port- 
 ia del Populo- 
 
 The End of the fir ft Fart i 
 
— — 
 
 THE 
 
 VOYAGE 
 
 O F 
 
 ITALY: 
 
 OR, A 
 
 COMPLEAT JOURNEY 
 
 THROUGH 
 
 ITALY. 
 
 The Second Part. 
 
 WITH THE 
 
 Charafters of the People , and the Defcription 
 
 of the Chief Towns, Churches, Mona fir ies, Torn! s, 
 Libraries , P allaces. Villa*, Gardens, Pi - 
 du es, Statues 5 Antiquities 
 AS ALSO, 
 
 Of the Inter efi, Government, Riches, Forces See. of 
 all the Princes. 
 
 By Richard Labels Gent* Opus pofthumtni. Cor- 
 reded and let forth by his oid friend and Fellow 
 Traveller 5. W- 
 
 LONDON , 
 Printed by T. B. MDCLXXXV. 
 
 
 
 
Part II. 
 
 3 
 
 OF THE 
 
 V O Y AGE 
 
 O F 
 
 ITALY. 
 
 PART II. 
 
 B EING arrived at Rome , we lod- 
 ged in an Inn for three or four 
 days, till we had found out , and 
 furnifhed , a houfe to our fatisfa- 
 ftion. That done, I began prefently my 
 Inquefl , and made Hue and Cry after every 
 little thing which time feemed to have rob- 
 bed us of 
 
 But as we approach not to great Perfbns 
 in Italy , without informing our felves fir ft 
 of their Titles , that we may know how to 
 Stile them: So before I bring my Reader ac- 
 quainted with Rome y I think it not amifs to 
 :ell him how this great City is commonly 
 railed. 
 
 And although Rome were anciently fty- 
 ed The Head and Alijlrefe of the World $ an 
 Barthly Goddefs 5 the 'Eternal City $ the Com- 
 A a 2 pend/nm 
 
4 mo ] ?sge of italY. Part ir- 
 
 pendium of the World 5 the common Mother 
 and Nurje of all Vertues ^ (while (he was yet 
 Heathen fi) Yet fince her Ladyfhip was Bap- 
 tized and became Chrifiian ( though (he 
 have had great Elogies made of her by the 
 Holy Fathers) I find no Title lo honoura- 
 Hcvo %cmc ble to her, as that of Roma la Santa , Rome 
 is ft ikd. t fo e pp 0 iy . w hich i s given her by the Common 
 Proverb,znd common Proverbs are nothing 
 elfe but the obfervations t>f common Senle: 
 For whereas the other Cities of Italy art 
 Proverbially called, either Fair fid entile fRich, 
 Proud , Fat or Great 5 as Florence , Naples , 
 Kpm Ja Venice^, Genua, Bologna , Milan 5 Rome on- 
 ly is (tiled the Holy : and this defervedly, 
 for many reafons. 
 
 Firft, for being the Epilcopal Seat of S. 
 Peter and his Succejfors , to the number of 
 240 and odd Popes . 
 
 2. For having been watered at the roots, 
 by the preaching and blood of the two 
 Glorious Apoftles S. Peter and S. Paul, which 
 
 Serm i. de made S. ie^,fpeaking to Rome of thefe two 
 ^oft^rttr) g reat Apoflles , make her this Apoflrophe . Hi 
 & p au i 9 funt qui te ad hanc gloriam provexerunt , ut 
 gens fianUa, populus ele&us , civitas Sacerdo - 
 talis Regia , per filer am Beati Petri fiedem 
 capitt or bis effect a , latius preefideres religione 
 divina quam dominatione terrena . 
 
 3. For having been looked upon in all 
 
 v ages, as the Center of Catholic Communion : 
 
 and 
 
Part II. CIjC Of ITALY. 5 
 
 and the place where the Matrix and Radix 
 Eccle/ia , the Mother Church and the Radical 
 Church (as S. Cyprian calls her) did flourilh 
 always. 
 
 4. For having been walhed and purged in 
 the blood of fo many thouland Martyrs in 
 the primitive times, which even baptized 
 Rome a new, and made it be called by Ho- 
 ly Fathers Nova Sion : a New Sion. 
 
 5. For having fo many Saints bodies lying 
 in its Churches 3 and fo many Churches with- 
 in its precintts, which are above three hun- 
 dred in all. 
 
 6 . For having been the happy occafion 
 of converting moft of the Nations of Eu- 
 rope, and many others out of Europe, unto 
 the Faith of Chrifi, by Preachers font from 
 thence. 
 
 7. For having been the Depofitary (as St. 
 Iremeus calls her) of the Holy Apoftolical Tra- 
 ditions and Dotirine , which have always 
 been conferved in her Church. 
 
 8. For having always conferved the Sym- 
 boleof the creed inviolably (faith St .Hierome.') 
 
 Befides theft forefaid reafons, Rome may 
 defervedly be called Holy, for the many and 
 lingular a&s of Charity which are done there Gre y t C kl - 
 daily, more than in any other place. Chari- rookT 
 ty is the Queen of Venues, and if ever I law 
 this Queen in herThrone,it^yas in Rome. For 
 there I law no evil, either of body or mind, 
 
 A a 3 but 
 
6 
 
 of ITALY. Part II. 
 
 but it had its remedy, if curabl.e 5 at leaft 
 its comforts if incurable. 
 
 Remedies For the firjl , to wit, Evils of body, it hath 
 
 Hofpitals, and thofo many, and many of 
 thole are Hofpitals in Folio . Befides no Pil- 
 grim comes to Rome , but he finds Rome , as 
 Adam did Paradife, with the Table covered, 
 and bed made ready for him. Poor young 
 Girls find Portions either for Husbands or 
 Nunneries, according to their choice 5 In- 
 Meretrices fant s whom cruel and unlawful Mothers , 
 'lint 'mde hke Wolves, expofe to death, Rome receives 
 Lupmu to life 5 and thinks it but a fuitable Antipe - 
 largejis to nourifh Wolves children, feeing a 
 nei.i.iZ.c. She-ivolf nourifhed her Founder being expo- 
 2I * led by Men. Fools too and Madmen fo much 
 the more miferable , as not being fo much 
 Qg rU as fenfible of their condition (for fepe ca- 
 Cun . lamitatis folatium efl noffe fortem fuam) have 1 
 
 here thole that take care of them. Poor men I 
 find Hofpitals when they arefick 5 and Gen- 
 tlemen , whom nature hath not exempted 
 from common Miferies, Rome exempts from 1 
 common Hofpitals 5 and not being able to 
 give them better health, fhe gives them at 
 leaft better accommodation in their fick- 
 nels.Here you (hall find an Apothecaries-fhop , 
 founded by Cardinal Francis Barber in, with 
 a yearly revenue of Twelve Thouland 
 Crowns, and this for ever $ to furnifh the : 
 poor with Phyfick gratis. 
 
 Here 
 
7 
 
 Part II. outage Of ITALY. 
 
 Here you fhall find the Hojpital of the Ho- 
 ly Trinity , which in the Jubily year of Cle- 
 ment the VIII , is found to have treated at 
 Table, in one day , Fifteen Thoufand Pil- 
 grims : And in the whole^r Five Hundred 
 Thoufand. Thelaft Jubily year 1650. I my 
 lelf was prefent one day, when the laid Hof- 
 pital treated Nine Thoufand Pilgrims that 
 day : The Pope himfelf (Innocent theX.)and 
 many of the Cardinals having been there to 
 wafh the feet of the Pilgrims, and to ferve e : 
 them at Table. Add to this, that every Na- onLtTTn 
 tion hath here its feveral Hojpital and Refuge, ffofpitai in 
 with Church and Churchmen toferve it. As the Rome * 
 Englijh Colledge, once an Hojpital for the En- 
 glijh : That of the Anima , for the Germans : 
 
 That of S. Lewis, for the French : That of St. 
 
 Iac&mo , for the Spaniards 3 That of S. Anto- 
 ny of Padua for the Portuguefe .-That of S .Ju- 
 lian for the Flemmings: That of S. Ambrofe 
 for the Lombards : That of S.j fuo for the Bri- 
 tans : That of S. Hierom for the Illyrians : 
 
 That of S .Mary Egyptiaca for th ^Armenians : 
 
 That of S .Stephano for the Hungarians :Thp t 
 of S. Stanijlaus for the Polonians . Befides a 
 world of others. Nay almoft every corpora- 
 tion or body of Artifans have their Hofpital 
 among themfelves, which they maintain. In 
 the Church of the Twelve Apojl. they choofe 
 yearly Twelve Noblemen and one Prelate 7 
 whQ is called theirP/w:Thefe go into every 
 A a 4 CQr- 
 
8 tmotage ef italy. Partii. 
 
 corner of Rome to ftek out poorMen who are 
 afham’d to beg, and yet are in great want. 
 Theft bafhful poor men put their names into 
 a Coffer well locked up and (landing in a 
 public place,by which means theft charitable 
 Noblemen find them out, and relieve them.; 
 
 What (hall I fay of the publick Charity 
 of the Pope himfelfi well known to all be-> 
 fides a world of private charities which he 
 gives by his Secreto Limojiniero to thofe that 
 are afham’d to beg publickly. 
 
 The like do many Cardinals by their own 
 bands and in that high meafure, that 
 Cardinal Mont alto (to name no more ) is 
 found by his Books of Accounts , to have 
 given away above a Hundred and Seven 
 thoufand Crowns to the Poor. Of which 
 pious Cardinal I cannot omit to write this 
 following Story, as I have learned it from 
 very good relation. 
 
 An h«evu “A poor Widow of Rome, Mother of 
 thmty. 1 ' “ one only Daughter both young and hand- 
 ‘ • fbme, got her Living honeftly by her own, 
 and her Danghters Labour, and rub’d out 
 “ poorly, but yet honeftly : Now it hap- 
 “ pened that this Widow falling Sick, and 
 “her Daughter having enough to do to 
 * l tend her, their work went on fo faintly, 
 “ and their gains came in fo (lowly, that at 
 “ her recovery, (he found her Purfe as much 
 ^ (pent as her Per Con. Whereupon be- 
 ^ : >■ - l ! S j «lg 
 
9 
 
 Part ii. Cfte taiotage of italy. 
 
 “ ing called on for the quarters Rent of 
 “her Chamber, and not knowing what 
 “ to do, (he was advifed by her Confeffarius 
 “to goto Cardinal Mont alt e ("who gave 
 “ public Audience thrice a Week to all the 
 “ Poor in Rome) and to beg as much of him, 
 “ as would pay her little debt. Prefled 
 “ therefore by her great neceffity , and 
 “ emboldened by the fame of the charity 
 “ of this good Cardinal , (he entred the 
 “ Palace, and found him in his great Hall, 
 “ giving Ear and Alms to all thole that 
 “ could give him a good account of their 
 “ wants. In her turn (he and her young 
 “ Daughter approached unto him, fitting 
 “ at his Tables End $ and exprefiing mo- 
 “ deftly her wants cau(ed by her three 
 “ Months Sicknels, (he humbly befought his 
 Eminence to give her five Crrnns for to 
 “ pay the Rent of her Chamber, and paci- 
 “ fy her Landlord who otherwile threat- 
 “ ned to put her out of Doors. The Car- 
 “ dinal feeing as much modeftyin her looks 
 “ as Sicknels in her Countenance j and 
 f* liking well, that (he did not go about to 
 “ fright him into Charity, by urging the 
 “ danger of being forc’d one day toexpofe 
 “ her Daughter to lewd Courles ( a com- 
 “ mon Rhetorical figure of Beggars in all 
 “ Countries) wrote down in a little Paper, 
 ‘‘ Fifty Crowns to be given to her '■> and 
 
suopage Of ITALY. Part II. 
 
 “ folding up the paper, he bid her carry 
 “ it to his Servant below at the entrance of 
 “ the Pallace, who kept the Cardinals Bills 
 “ and payed the contents of them. She 
 “ did fo with humble Prayers of thankful- 
 “ nefs 5 and the Servant upon the Sight of 
 “ the Paper, prefently threw her fifty 
 “ Crowns, and bid her make an acquittance 
 “ for it. The poor Woman feeing fifty 
 “ Crowns counted out for her, who had 
 “ asked but five } and fearing leaft the Ser- 
 “ vant upon fight of her handfbm daughter, 
 tc might have done this by way of Bribery, 
 
 “ told himfinartly, that tho’ (he were Poor, 
 
 “ yet (he was honeft, and that (he (corn’d 
 “ to go by one Corruption to another. 
 “ The honeft Servant civilly replied, that he 
 “ underftood not her words : nor I your 
 “ deeds , (aid (be „ I asked the Cardi- 
 “ nal five Crowns , he granted me my re- 
 “ queft, and why then do you offer me * 
 “ fifty Crowns .<? The honeft Servant to (hew 
 “ his Innocency, (hews his mafters hand 
 “ writing, importing fifty Crowns. Then 
 “ your mafters hand, laid (he, for hafteout- 
 “ (hot his Intentions. I asked him for five 
 “ Crowns , and more in Confcience I can- 
 Ci not take. The Servant, though he knew 
 “ his mafters Generofity, yet to take all 
 tc fcruple from the poor Woman, locked 
 “ up his Money and Papers, and defired the 
 
 poor 
 
Part II. C$e WOVm Of ITALY. , , 
 
 cc poor Woman to go up with him to the 
 “Cardinal again to clear this doubt. The 
 “ Cardinal hearing from this Servant the 
 “ whole paflage, and that the poor Wo- 
 cc man was affraid his hand had been mifi 
 Cc taken in writing fifty Crowns inftead of 
 cc five 5 5 tis true, laid he, my hand was mifi 
 cc taken indeed 5 and calling for his Pen a - 
 Cc gain as if he would have correfted the Cy - 
 4c pker which made the Bill fifty, he put in 
 Cc another Cypher , and fo made it five Hun- 
 Cc dred Crowns 5 reading it now aloud to 
 4C his Servant and the poor Woman 5 com- 
 cc manding her to beftow her Daughter with 
 cc that Moneys and if it were not enongh,to 
 Cc come again to him, and he would make 
 cc it up. A true Roman Charity . 
 
 As for thofe Charities which concern the Remedies 
 Mind , if a great King of Egypt wrote over f° r ^ viIs 
 his Library- door, Medicina Anima , , Phyfick, °Mj n % 
 for the Mind , here in Rome I find ftore of ofmunduns 
 (uch Phyfick in Libraries , Co Hedges, Monajle- a ff t dHer0 ~ 
 ries , and devout Companies . And firft for 
 Libraries 5 you (hall find here (befide the Li- 
 braries of every Religious houfe) the in- 
 comparable Library of the Vatican (of which 
 more below J thofe alfo of Cardinal Barbe ~ 
 rin 3 qf the Duke of Altemps 5 that of the 
 Sapimza , and that of the Augujiins 3 the 
 laft two being open to all Men every day, 
 with a courteous Gentleman to reach you 
 
 any 
 
1 2 Clje <0$O?Sge Of ITALY. Part II. 
 
 any Book, and a learned Mamfcript in Fo- 
 lio, addreffing you to the Authors that 
 treat of any Subject you defire to be in- 
 formed of which affords great help to the 
 Coiieiges ; p a jnf u i Student. Then the Colledges and 
 Seminaries of almoft all Nations where 
 youths are both fed and bred up in Learn- 
 ing for nothing. 
 
 Monifte- Add to this the variety of Monasteries and 
 
 ties. Convents , both of Men and Women, where 
 
 they may hide themfelves fecurely, donee 
 tranfeat Iniquitas. 
 
 Houfe s for Then the taking away of young Girls , at 
 ten or twelve years old from their poor fufi 
 pefted Mothers =, and the bringingthem up 
 vertuoufly, under careful matrons of known 
 Vertue, till they either chufe the Nuptial 
 Flammeum •, or the Sacred Velum. 
 
 Remedies Then the Remedies for ill Married Women , 
 
 for in mar- w hofe unadvifed choice (Marriages being 
 r J,a: W °~ often made for Intereft) or incompatible 
 humours force to a Corporeal feparation, 
 and left fitch unfortunate Women fhould ei- 
 ther live incontinently indeed, or give fufi 
 pition of it, they are provided here with a 
 Houfe where they live retiredly under Locf^ 
 and Key, till they either reconcile them- 
 felves again to their Husbands i or upon juft 
 occafions, leave them for ever. Over the 
 door of this houfe is written, Per le donne 
 mat maritate , 
 
 Then 
 
Part II. %%Z t]* 0 ?ase of ITALY. 15 
 
 Then the Convent ot Penitent Whores^ that Tkc c f‘~ 
 none may periffa in Rome who have a mind p IZtbu. 
 to be laved ) called Sanfta Maria. Magda- 
 lena in Corfo 5 where many of rhofe poor 
 Magdalens have led fuch penitential Lives, 
 
 (as the bloody Walls of their Cells, caufed 
 by their frequent difciplining, (hewed to 
 all Rome in a conflagration of that Mona- 
 fiery) that 'Paultfs QuintuslnmCdf being in- 
 formed of it, would needs be carried thi- 
 ther, to fee thole Bloody Chambers from 
 the Street, and having feen them, wept for 
 Joy 3 and I can fcarce hold from crying 
 out: Ofelix culpa. 
 
 What (hall I fay of the Congregation of charity of 
 Advocates and Attornies , inftituted in Rome, %£££* 
 where they meet once a Week to examine 
 poor mens Law-Suits b and either dehort 
 them from proceeding in bad caufes, or 
 profecute good caufes for them at the coft 
 of this Congregation. 
 
 What fhall I fay of feveral pious Clergy- Broken 
 men: (efpecially the good Rrietts of the Ora- 
 tory, happy in this employment) who make 
 it their task to reconcile difagreeing fami- 
 lies, and with great zeal and piety, exhort 
 firft the one, then the other of the parties, 
 intervene between them, (peak well of the 
 one to the other, clear and take away jea- 
 lous mifunderftandings, and inline, piece a- 
 gain broken Neighbours? 
 
 What 
 
14 ^O^age Of ITALY. Part II. 
 
 Ftur ser- What fhall I fay of the four Sermons daily 
 
 M oL pi Me in the Chiefa Nova , by the moft learned and 
 in Rome, good Priejl of the Oratory , who being moft 
 of them learned Men, as Baronins , Bojius , 
 Jujlinianus , Renaldus , &c. and able to fly 
 high, yet in their Sermons ftoop to a low 
 pitch, and a popular facile way,which aims 
 rather at converfion, than oftentation j and 
 doth great good, though it make little noifoj 
 Dominus in leni aura. 
 
 weeilySer- What (hall I lay of the weekly Sermon to 
 
 jews™ the th e Jws, upon Saturday , where they are 
 bound to be prefent to the number bf three 
 hundred : where the Pope entertains a lear- 
 ned Preacher , to convince them out of their 
 own Scriptures^ and thofe that are conver- 
 ted, are provided for in the Hojpital of the 
 Catechumens , till they be throughly inftruft- 
 ed ? I havefoen divers of them baptized. 
 T pu. choU What (hall I fay of the SchoU pi<e in Rome, 
 
 a company of good Religious Men , who 
 look lik ejejuitsfave. only that they go bare 
 foot in Sandals > Thefo good Fathers make 
 a profefliion to teach poor boys gratis , their 
 firft Grammar Rudirnentsymi. to make them 
 fit to be font to the Jejuits Schools and ha- 
 ving taught them thus in the Schools , they 
 accompany them home in the Streets , left 
 they foould either learn waggery as they go 
 home,or praftice it. Nay thefo humble Men 
 make it their profeftion not to teach higher 
 
 Schools j 
 
*5 
 
 Part II. C^emoyagC Of ITALY. 
 
 Schools , where there might be foine profit 
 and honour, at leaft fome fatisfa&ion and 
 pleafure : but they content themfelves to go 
 barefoot , and teach only the lower Schools 
 and firft Rudiments 3 by which they neither 
 grow wifer nor richer : A ftrange mortifi* 
 ed trade , but Beats pauperes fpiritu. 
 
 What (hall I fay of the Fathers of the A- 
 gonizants , whofe Vocation is, to be the Se- 
 conds of thofe who fight againft death it 
 felf that is, whofe profeffion is, to affift 
 thofe that are in the Jgony of Death •, and to 
 help them to make then thofe pious Aids, 
 which Chrifiians fhould moft of all then 
 rouze themfelves up to? 
 
 What can be laid more yes, Rome not 
 content, to have fed, to have bred, to have 
 converted, baptized, reconciled the living 5 
 and affiftingthe dyingdhe extends herCAwi- 
 ty even beyond death it felf, and hath inftitu- 
 ted a pious Confraternity called, ca.mpa.gni a 
 deMorti, whofe office is to bury theDead,a nd 
 tovifit thofe that ar ^Condemned, & by pray- 
 ing with them,exhortingthem,and accompa- 
 nying them to the Execution, help them to 
 dye Penitently, and bury them being Dead* 
 and Pray for their Souls being Buried af- 
 ter which. Charity can do no more to Man, 
 and therefore I will conclude, that feeing 
 filch fingular Afts of Charity , both for Body 
 and Mind, are prattifed no where fb much 
 
 as 
 
 The Vs- 
 therscf the 
 Agoni- 
 $ants. 
 
 Lti Com - 
 p ignix de 
 Mortf. 
 
1 6 ITALY. Part II; 
 
 as in Rome , its true which I aflumed above, 
 that Rome delerves to be call’d the Holy. 
 
 Having laid thus much of the Title of 
 Rome , I will now make my Reader better 
 acquainted with her, by delcribing the Par- 
 ticularities which I obferved here. And that > 
 1 may not ramble in writing of Rome , as 
 moft men do in vifiting of it, I will begin 
 at the Bridge called now Ponte Angelo, and 
 from thence take the whole Gyro of the 
 City in Order. 
 
 Arriving then at the Bridge called anci- 
 sekf A "' ent] y Bom Elius becaule it was built by the i 
 Emperor Elius Adrianus , but now called 
 Ponte Angelo, becaule it was upon this 1 
 Bridge that S. Gregory the Great law an An- 
 gel upon the Moles Adriani, Iheathing his ' 
 Sword after a great Plague : here we law 
 theftately new decoration of JVwz-work 
 with the twelve Marble Statues let upon it 
 by this prelent Pope Clement the Ninth, and 
 looking down into the River on the Left- 
 hrnd, we law the ruins of the Triumphal 
 Bridge. 
 
 This Bridge was called the Triumphal 
 The trim - Bridge , becaule over it Triumphs were ac- 
 pWin^. C u(^ ome d to pals anciently to the Capitol. 
 This made it lo proud, that it fcorn d that 
 any ruftics , or Country-Fellows (hould 
 pals over it , and got a Decree of the Senate 
 for that purpofe. But pride will haye a fall, 
 
 and 
 
Part II. €%t movm of ITALY. 17 
 
 and the proud Triumphal Bridge hath got fuch a 
 great one, that there's but juft fo much of it left, 
 as to (hew, where it was once 5 fo true is the lay- 
 ing of AufoniMy 
 
 Mors etiam Saxi* nominibmque venit. 
 
 At firft the Romans were modeft enough in their 
 Triumphs , as in all other things : Hence Camillws 
 was content with four white Horfes in his Chariot ; 
 but afterwards luxe and excefs banilhing out of 
 the City old modefty , they began to ftrive who 
 fliould be the mod vain in this point. Hence Pom- 
 pey was drawn in Triumph by four Elephants 5 Parity in 
 Mark^Antony, by four Lyons : 'Nero , by four Her- Triumphs, 
 mophrodites , which were all four both Horfes and 
 Mares : Heliogabulus by four Tygers ; Aurelianm 
 by fix Stags 5 and Eirmicm by eight Oftriches. 
 
 At the end of Ponte Angelo (lands the Caftel Ca -M An - 
 Angelo , fo called, becaufe, as I faid before, S. Gre-^ 0 ’ 
 gory in a folemn ProceJJion during the Plague, faw 
 an Angel upon the top of Moles Adri am (neathing 
 his Sword, to fignify , that Gods Anger was ap- 
 peafed. Before this Miracle happened, it was cal- 
 led Moles Adriani , becaufe the Emperor Adrian 
 was buried here. It was built anciently in a round 
 form of vaft (tones going up in three" rows or (lor- 
 ries, lefler and lelfer , till you came to the top $ 
 where flood mounted that great Pine-apple or 
 Brafs guilt , which we fee now in the Garden of 
 Belvedere . Round about it were fet in the wall 
 great Marble Pillars ,and round about the feveral 
 Stories flood a world of Statues. This Moles be- 
 ing found a ftrong place, Bellijarius put Men in- 
 
 Bb to 
 
18 C$e mo^age Of ITALY. Part IL 
 
 to it to defend it againft the Gothes , and they de- 
 fended themlelves in it a great while, by break- 
 ing the Statues in Pieces, and throwing them up- 
 on the Heads of the Gothes that beiieged them. 
 Since that time diverfe Popes have turned it into 
 a formal Caftle. Boniface the VIII 3 Alexander the 
 VI, and Urban the VIII, have rendered it a Re- 
 gular' Caftle y with five Itrong Baftions , ftore of 
 good Cannons ) and a conftant Garifon maintained 
 in in From this Caftle I law divers times thefe 
 Fortifications; and below divers great pieces of 
 Artillery , made of the Brafs taken out of the 
 Pantheon ; and they fhewcd us one great Cannon 
 which was made of the brazen Nails only , that 
 nailed that brafs to the walls of the Pantheon ; the 
 length and form of thofe Nails, is fcen upon that 
 Cannon, to fhew unto polfority how great they 
 were, with thefe words upon it ; ex clavis trabia - 
 libws Porticm Agripp^e. In this Caftle are kept PrP 
 [oners of State - ? the five Millions laid up there , 
 by Sixties Quintw ; the Popes rich Triple Crowns , 
 called Regm^ and the Chief R egifters of the Ro- 
 man Church • From the top alfo of this Caftle 
 you fee dilnnctly the long Corridor or Gallery , 
 The long which runs from the Popes P allace of the Vatican 
 Corridor to thl s Caftle ^ for the Popes ufe in time of dan- 
 p 111 Ip g er * It was niade by Pope Alexander the VI. and 
 the caftle. and ufed by Clement the VII. who by it got fafe 
 into the Caftle, from the fury of the German Sol - 
 diers , who being many of them Lutherans , fwore 
 they would eat a piece of the Pope. 
 
 From hence entring into the Bor go j we went 
 towards S. Peters Churchy and in the way flept in- 
 to the Church of the Carmelites , called Santa Ma- 
 ria' 
 
Part ir. wfytm orage of italy. f 9 
 
 ria TTanfpontina , where, in a Chappie on the ^4 
 left hand as you enter , are feen two Pillars of Mm * 
 Stone enchafed in wood , to the which S. Pet r 
 and S. Paul were tved when they were whipped 
 before their death, according to the Romans cu- 
 ftom. Here’s alfo the Head of S. Bafil the Greeks 
 Father furnamed the Great. Here’s alfo a curi- 
 ous Picture of S. Barbara in the Vault, by Cava- 
 lier Giofeppe. 
 
 Going on from hence, we came prefently to 
 the Pallace of Cmpeggi , lo called, becaufe it be- 
 longed to Cardinal Campeggi , the Popes Legat 
 in England , to whom Henry the VIII. gave it. 
 Heretofore it belonged to the Englijh Emballa- TheEngHjh 
 dors, and was one of the beft in Rome , both for 
 being near the Popes Pallace , and alfo for that i xcc% 
 it was well built by famous Bramante. It belongs 
 now to Cardinal Colonna . 
 
 Over againft it hands a little Piazza, with a 
 fine Fountain , and joyning to it a little Church 
 called San Jacomo Scozza Cavalli , in which, under S. facm* 
 an Altar on the right hand, I faw the Stone upon 
 which Abraham offered to facrifice his Son Ijaac, 
 and under another Altar on the left hand , the 
 Stone upon which our Saviour was placed , when 
 he was prefented in the Temple. Both thefe were 
 brought, or fent to Rome , by Helen Mother of 
 the Emperor Conftantine the great. 
 
 Prefently after , you come to the Piazza of The Portti- 
 St. Peter , built round about with a noble Portico ™ °f th i 
 of Free-ftone, born up by four rows of fiately 
 round Pillars, under which , not only the Pro- 
 cejjion upon Corpm Chrijli day , marched in the 
 fhade j but alfo all People may go dry, and out 
 B b 2 of 
 
ters, 
 
 so e dotage Of ITALY. Part II. 
 
 of the Sun in Summer of Winter, unto S. Peter's 
 Church, or the Vatican Pallace . This Portico is 
 built in an oval form , and fetcheth in the great 
 Piazza^ which is before S. Peter's Church , and 
 therefore can be no lefs than half a Mile in com- $ 
 pals, This noble Structure was begun by Alexan - » 
 der the VII, and half of it finilhed , and the o- 
 ther half is now almoft finilhed. I never faw 
 any thing more (lately than this. The number 
 of the Pillars and of the Statues on the top , I do 
 not juftly remember. In the midfl: of this Pi- 
 The great azzafi andsthe famous Gugliafwhich was brought 
 out of /Egypt, in the time of the old Romans y 
 jo,e 4 e* an( j dedicated to Auguftu 6 C<*[ar and T/iberiws , as 
 the words upon it import. It lay hid long in Pie- 
 ros Circus , which was there where now S. Peters 
 Sacrifty is , and at laft , Sextus Quintus having 
 propoled great rewards to him that would venture 
 to fet it up here without breaking, it was happi- 
 ly undertaken by Dominic o Pont am , a rare Ar- 
 chited of Como ; and fo placed as you fee it now. 
 The manner of bringing it out or /Egypt , and 
 of ereding it here, are both painted in Frefco up- 
 on the Walls of the Vatican Library CYhisGuglia is 
 all of one (lone except the 1 Bafts $ and it hath no, 
 Hieroglyphes upon it. The Hone is a Granate , or 
 fpeckled Marble , which together with its Bajis , is 
 a hundred and eight Foot high. It reds upon 
 four Lyons of Brais guilt $ and at the top of it is 
 planted a Crofs of Brafs mounted upon three 
 Mountains, with a Star over them (the Arms 
 of $extus Qjintus , whofe name was Montaho.) 
 Within the Crofs, is a piece of the Holy Crofs 
 of our Saviour, included here by Sextu\ Quintus , 
 
 The 
 
 WM 
 
part ii. efce trotage of italy, a * 
 
 The whole Guglia is laid to weigh 9 56 r 48 pound 
 weight. I wonder what Scales they had to weigh 
 it with. 
 
 On each fide of this Guglia is to ftand fair The Foun * 
 Fountains , one wherefore is that which is feen tms% 
 there now 5 which throweth up fuch a quantity 
 of water, that it maketh a mift always about it, 
 and oftentimes a rainbow when the Sun ftrikes 
 obliquely upon it. 
 
 This Piazza is capable of two HundredThou- The 
 land Men , and delivers you up to the Stairs 
 which lead you up to the Church of St. Peter. 
 
 Coming therefore near to St. Peters Church, s. Peters* 
 I was glad to fee that noble ftru&ure, where great- 
 nefs and neatnefs,bulk and beauty ,are fo mingled 
 together, that its neither neat only, like a fpruce 
 Gallery 5 nor vaft only, like a great Hall ; but 
 its rather like a proper Man , and yet well pro- 
 portioned. You mount up to this Church by an T ^ ar ^ e 
 eafie afcent of four and twenty Steps , of Marble steps up to 
 Stairs, as long as the Frontifpice of the Church is st. Peters 
 wide; thefe Stairs were thofe of the old Church Church. 
 of S. Peter ; and Baronins obferves , That when Baron ai 
 the Emperor Charlemagne mounted up thofe an * 774 . 
 Stairs firft, he killed every ftep as he went up. the Fm - 
 
 Thefe Stairs lead you up to the Frontifpice of 
 the Church, which hath five doors in it, letting 
 you into the Porch ; and thefe doors are cheeked 
 with vaft round Pillars of Free-ftone twenty four 
 foot in compafs, and eighty fix in height. Over 
 thefe Pillars runs the Architrave, and over it the 
 Lodge or great Balcony , where the Pope is 
 Crowned , and where he gives his Benediction 
 upon Eafter-day. Over this Lodge runs a conti- 
 B b 3 nual 
 
'' 
 
 2 2 C^e Of ITALY. Part II. 
 
 filial Balufter or row of Rails, upon which ftand 
 Thirteen vaft Statues of our Saviour, and his 
 Apofties cut in (tone. 
 
 The Torch. Entring into the Porch , you will admire the i 
 length, breadth and height of it. For the length 
 of it* its two Hundred Eighty nine Foot, the 
 breadth Forty four Foot, the heighth a Hundred 
 Thirty three foot. Its adorned on both fides 
 with great Marble Pillars , and a curious guilt 
 Roof. In fine, this Porch any where elfe would 
 The eburch be a handfome Church. 
 
 Over againft the five Doors of this Porch, 
 ftand the five Doors of the Church; one where- 
 Tort a Saji - of is called the Porta Sancta^nd only open in the i 
 hha. Jubilv year : The others are daily open ; and the 1 
 raivce sn two P l 'i nc ipal doors are called Valv* Saneli Petri , 
 Petri. * and are covered with brafs, by the command of 
 Eugenim the IV. whofe memorable aftions, to >! 
 wit, the Crowning of the Emperor Sigijmon^ i 
 and the reunion of the Gm\ Church with the \ 
 Latin, are exprefled in them. Thefe Vdv<e are t 
 thirteen Foot wide, and forty five high ; and to i 
 them all Popes Bulls are nailed at their publica- 7 
 tion. 
 
 T he in file Entring into the Church , I found it to be built I 
 of * the” h 1#n Crofs wife ; containing in length five hundred 2 
 i lurch of and twenty foot, and three hundred eighty five . 
 t, Peter, in breadth. So that it paffeth in greatnels, the i 
 famous Temples of Antiquity , to wit Solomon's 
 Temple, longThreefcore Cubits :The Temple of 
 D tana in Ephef long four Hundred T wenty five 
 foot ; and the great Mozki at Fez,, long a Hun- 
 dred and fifty Cubits. 
 
 The 
 
Part II. Clje Socage Of ITALY. 2 j 
 
 The Roof or Vault of this Church is arghed The roof. 
 with great fquares , and each fquare is adorned 
 • with a great guilt Role , which almoft fills the 
 fquare. This Roof is barn up by great Pillars 
 of Freeftone, of a fquare form , whofe Capitelli 
 are curioufly wrought, after the Corinthian order, 
 and joyned to one another above, by Arches and 
 a perpetual Cornice , over which are cut in Stone, 
 the Statues of feveral moral Vertues. Thefe Pil- 
 lars are a Hundred and five Foot in compafs, 
 and diftant Forty Foot one from another. On 
 that fide of them which looks towards the body 
 of the Church ; they are to be over-crufted with 
 white Marble, with two rows of niches in them, 
 for great Statues of Brafs guilt. The other fides 
 of thefe Pillars are already adorned with a neat 
 overcrufting of a reddilh Marble, befet with the 
 Heads of the primitive martyr’d Popes , held 
 up by two Angels, and with the Pigean of Inno- 
 cent the X. (who made rhis decoration) and all 
 thefe are in mz.zjo rilievo , and of pure white A- 
 labafter. Behind thefe Pillars is a large lie, or 
 paffage, and behind rhat lie immediately , ftand 
 fair Chappies, which flanck up this Church no- 
 tably, and each Chappie is graced with a little 
 Cupola of its own. 
 
 In the midft of the Crofs building of thisChurch 
 is mounted the great Cupola , which looks like a 
 great Crown, wherewith this Queen of Churches 
 is Crowned. It reds upon four Pilafiri or great 
 Pillars, which make the corners of the Crofs of 
 this Church, and from them it rifcth into fuch a 
 high Vault, that it feems to walk into Heaven. 
 
 Its full as round as the Pantheon in R om y that is. 
 
cije taJo^age of italy. part m. 
 
 it carrieth the compafs of an hundred and feven- 
 
 ty Paces, as you may eafily meafure upon the cir- 
 cle of white Marble in the Pavement which en- 
 
 fai ♦ 
 
 vironeth the Altar of StPeter^ and is made there on 
 purpofe perpendicularly under the Cupola to fhew 
 its greatnefs, the in fide of this Cupola is curi- 
 oully painted with Piftures in Mofaic work, re- 
 prefenting a Heaven, indeed nothing but Hea- 
 ven it felt can be finer or higher. So that I may 
 fay truly to Rome with Rutillius. 
 
 Non procul a c<elo per tua Templa fumus. 
 
 In a word this Cupola is the boldeft piece of 
 Archite&ure that perhaps the World hath feen $ 
 and it was the laid and greateft work of Sextus 
 Quintus his Purfe. 
 
 The four The four Pilaftri upon which this Cupola reft- 
 
 great Vila- eth, are vaft fquare Pillars, a Hundred and twen- 
 ty foot in Compafs, and capable of Stairs within 
 them, and large Sacrifties above, for the holy re- 
 licks that are kept in them 5 to wit, the Volto 
 Santo or Print of our Saviours Face, which he 
 imprinted in the Handkercheif of St. Veronici • 
 The piece of the holy Crofs 5 the top of the 
 Launce wherewith our Saviours Side was pierced* 
 and the Head of St. Andrew the Apoftle tranfla- 
 ted hither into his Brothers Church by Pius Secun- 
 dus. Hence in thefe great Pillars are cut Niches, 
 and in them plac’d four vaft Statues of white 
 Marble. Under the Relic of the Volto Santo 
 Hands the Statue of the Veronica } under the piece 
 of the Holy Crofs, the Statue or S. Helen . Un- 
 der the top of the Launce, the Statue of Longi- 
 nus : under the Head of S. Andrew , the Statue 
 of S. Andrew* Thefe Statues are of Colojfean 
 
 greatnds 3 
 
Part n. cije wage of Italy. 
 
 greatnefs, and made by Matters as great as them- 
 (elves. 
 
 In themidft of the Crofs of this Church, and The high 
 perpendicularly under the very Cupola , (lands the Altar - 
 nigh Altar of this Church. This Altar may well 
 be called the high Altar, ( Altare quafi alta ara ) , 
 or the Altare Majus , being the nobleft Altar in 
 the World, both for matter and form. The ter. 
 Altar it felf (lands over the Tomb of S. Veter ^ 
 half whofe Body, together with half of S. Pauls , 
 lies buried here ; and the other half of their Bo- 
 dies in S.PauIs Church.Over this Altar four (late- 
 ly Pillars of Brafs bear up a Canopy of the lame 
 Mettal, wrought about the Edge like a Canopy 
 indeed, with Vallances and a guilt Fringe, yet 
 all of Brafs. Over the comers of this Canopy, 
 
 Hand four great Angels of brafs guilt, and in the 
 midft of it is mounted high a round Ball of Brals 
 guilt, and a fair Crofs upon it of the fame met- 
 tal. 
 
 Thefe four pillars are as great in compafs (1 The four 
 fpeak by experience having taken the meafure of 
 them upon their model) as thre<“. ordinary men aUau * 
 are thick. Their Form is Serpentine* wreath- 
 ed about with Vine-trees and leaves ; but all of 
 Brafs, as alfo adorned with little Angels of Brals 
 clambering up thofe Leaves and Branches, and 
 with Bees here and there alfo, relating to Pope 
 Vrbans Arms, who made them. Thefe Pillars 
 are fifty foot nigh from the ground. Every one 
 of them weigheth five and twenty Thoufand 
 Pound weight, and all of them together make 
 this Altar, tne Altar antonomaflically, as this 
 Church is the Church of the World. So that 
 
 if 
 
26 WQta%t Of ITALY. Part II. 
 
 if the Climax be true (as true it is) that Churches 
 are for Altars, Altars for Priefts, Priefts lor God, 
 I know no Religion which paycthfuch honoura- 
 ble tributes of Worlhip to God, ( as the Roman- 
 Catholick Religion doth, which hath the noble ft 
 Church, the nobleft Altar, »the nobleft Prieft, the 
 nobleft Sacrifice, and ail this to the nobleft God 
 2. parxlip. p ews Deorm Domnut. Hence the Pope may fay 
 with Salomon : Domus guarn tedificare cup to magna 
 eft , magnws eft. enim Dominm nofter Jdper omnes Deos. 
 The Con - Behind this Altar fnot in refpeft of him that 
 
 Petri comes into the Church by the great door, but in 
 
 refpeft of him that ftands at the Altar) ftands 
 the Confeffion of St. Peter ; fo called, becaufe 
 that in the Primitive times, the place where the 
 Bodies of Saints and Martyrs were kept, was cal- 
 led Confejjio , and in the Church Martyri- 
 um. For in antient Writers the word Confeflor 
 was taken often for a Martyr, who had confefled 
 Chrift fo far as even to die for him : So that Mar- 
 tyrs are fometimes called Confeffors, and Con- 
 feffors Martyrs^though they did not a6tually die 
 in Torments ; as yoii may fee plainly in the An- 
 mm. 1 . notations of llrrned Pmelim upon Pertulliam 
 Book ad Martyres. Now this place becaufe it con- 
 fervesthe Body\at leaft half of the Body) of St. 
 Peter is called the Confeffion of Peter . As for 
 this Confeffion, i^s made like a hollow Cave open 
 above, and raffed about with low Railes, fothat 
 the People kneeling may look aown to the Iron 
 door and grate, behind which the Tomb of St. 
 Peter ftands, under the Altar; for thefe Rails 
 fetch in a demi-circle from one corner of the Al- 
 tar to the other. There are alfo a double pair 
 
Part ii. ©o^age of italy. 7 7 
 
 of open Stairs, of fome twelve fteps a-piece, for 
 thole to defcend by who officiate, and there are 
 two little half doors which let them in to thofe 
 Stairs. And I conceive at the bottom of thefe lit- 
 tle doors, the limina Apoftolcrum to be. For - 
 though 1 know it’s generally held, thattovifit 
 the Limnia Apoftolonm (which Bi i ops by TheLimmx 
 their Cannon Law are oblig’d unto J is to -vifit Apoftolo- 
 St. P etePs Church; and that divers learned Au- rum * 
 thors think the Limina Apoftolorim to be the ve- .. 
 ry Steps of the entrance of the great door of the 
 Church ; yet I am of opinion, that thefe little half 
 Doors and the Steps about the Altar are moft pro- 
 perly the Limina Apoftolorim, becaufe I found 
 thefe very words written in Golden Letters in the 
 bottom of the like little doors, which hand about 
 rhe high Altar in St. Pauls Church, where the 
 other half of the Bodies of St. Peter and St. Paul rvhinr 
 are intomb’d. > lariisi 
 
 Round about this Church hand Side Chappels Petri, 
 fome fix and twenty in all, called antiently Cu- 
 bic ula, and thofe whom we call Chaplains were F a ld ' 
 antiently called Cubicularii : Hence the title of 0 f k \ ** l ~ 
 CuVicularim S. Petri. Now thefe Chappels have Marcello. 
 for the moft part fome remarkable thing in them. Vaulin 'F- 
 lu one of them is always referv p d the B.Sacrament P &* 1 2 * 
 for the daily ufe of Pilgrims that defire to commu- adSsver * 
 nicate in St. Peters Church,and other devout Peo- St G 
 pie. In that of St. Gregory ~Naz.ianz.en, is the Bo- Na\ian- 
 dy of that Saint tranflated hither out of the \em Tomk 
 Church of the Nuns of Campo Marzo. In the 
 Chappel of the Canons, repofeth the Body of St. Sf - ebrifo* 
 Cbryfoftome. In the Chappel called the Clementina, 
 repofeth the Body of St. Gregory the great, who sTStego- 
 
 beifig ties Tomb. 
 
38 
 
 Stow in 
 bis Cbroni - 
 cles in 
 j^entijh 
 Saxons , 
 
 The Chair 
 of St, Pe- 
 ter. 
 
 The chief 
 Julies, 
 
 Some 
 
 Tombs, 
 
 €3je WQtm of ITALY. PartIL 
 
 being Pope of Rome^ and moved by Godly In- 
 ftinftion (as John Stow faith) font Augufiin, Juftus , 
 Melitws , and other Monks living in the fear or 
 God, to convert the Angles, or Englifh to the 
 Faith of Chrift; and therefore I took particular 
 notice often of his Tomb, as being (as venera- 
 ble Bede calls him) our Apoffie. In a Chappel 
 at the very farther end of the Church is fet up the 
 chair of St. Veter 5 held up by four Doctors of the 
 Church, all caft in Brafs in a (lately Pofture-This 
 chair is of Wood ; but much fpent with old Age; 
 and therefore Pope Alexander the Seventh caufed 
 it to be fet up here, and enchafed curioufly to 
 preferveit. Ioncefaw it near at hand, being ex- 
 pos’d to publick view in the middle of the Church 
 upon the Feaftday of St. Veters chair in Rome* In 
 another Chappel is the Caieifix made three hun- 
 dred Years ago by rareP ietro Cavalino, In ano- 
 ther Chappel you fee ait in white Marble the Hi- 
 ftory of St.Leo’s meeting Attila out of Raw, and his 
 deturning him from coming any nearer to the City 4 
 
 As for the Relics and Bodies of Saints which 
 are in this Churchy befides thofe mentioned alrea- 
 dy, there are the bodies of SS. Simon and Jude , 
 of S. Vetromllapi SS. Vroce/fus and Martini anus, 
 of tenfirfl: Popes after SPeter-, with a world of ci- 
 ther precious Relics kept in the Sacrifly. 
 
 As for the Tombs which are in this Church a- 
 bove ground.they are thefe. That of Sextus IV.of 
 P aulus III 5 or Urban the VIII ; of Leo the XI. cf 
 Innocent the VIII ; of Gregory the XIII 5 of In- 
 nocent the X *, and laftly that of the Comtefs Ma - 
 tilde yhe only fecular perfon that I find to have a 
 Tomb in this Church above ground- Indeed (he 
 
 deferve* 
 
Part II. Cfi&e ®JO£age Of ITALY. 29 
 
 delerveswell to lye In St. Peters Churchy whode- 
 ferved to be called S. Peters Daughter 5 and Ihe 
 deferved this furname,. for having defended the 
 Church fo gallently in its greateft conflid, a- 
 gainft Henry the I /. Emp. and having endowed 
 it with a good part of its Patrimony. Her body 
 was tranflated from Mantua hither , in the year 
 by the command of Pope Vrban the 
 
 VIE 
 
 Near the Confelfion of S. Peter * is an old bra- 
 zen Statue of S. Peter ^ fitting with his hand up 
 as giving his bleffing; and holding his right foot 
 a little out, to be killed. At firft, fome wonder 
 to fee devout People flocking thither, and kiffing 
 die Foot of that Statue, and putting their Heads 
 under that Foot, when they have done 5 but 
 when they are well informed, that all this is done 
 only to teftify , that they fubmit themfelves to 
 the Authority which was given by our Saviour, 
 to S. Peter and his Succeffors, they reft fatisfied. 
 
 Over theHoly-water-pot,on the left hand,as you 
 enter into the Church,is feen,faftned to the wall,an 
 old Infcription upon a fquare Stone, importing, 
 that that was the very ftone upon which the bo- 
 dies of St. Peter and St. Pad were divided* when 
 half of their bodies were buried here, ana the o- 
 ther half in St. Pauls Church, by St. Sihefter . 
 
 As for the prime Pi&ures that are in this Some 
 Church 5 they are thefe.* That of St. Michael in P* im 
 Mojaick^ work , is of the defign of Cavalier Qio - 1 urss ' 
 feppe : As alfo the defign of the Mofdck^wovk in 
 the Cupola . That of St. John Evangelift, and St. 
 
 Luke juft under the Cupola , are of the hand of 
 Qiovami de Vechi. The Picture where St. Peter 
 
 cures 
 
3 o tr^e morage of italy. Partir. 
 
 cures the lame man, is of the hand of Lidhvico 
 da Civoli. That of the fall of Simon Magus , is 
 of the hand Vanni of Siena. That where St. Pe- 
 ter is painted with Annaniat dead before him , is 
 of the hand of Cavalier Rancalli. That of the 
 Altar of St. Gregory , is of the hand of Andrea 
 Sacco Romano . That of the Creation of the 
 World, is of Pietro Berettim de Cortona. That 
 of Medic de fidei, is of the hand of Lanfranco. 
 
 The s mi- Having thus feen the Church, I went to fee 
 
 Peter SU ^ 1C Sacrilty of this Church , where by exprefs 
 leave from the Monfignor ; who hath the chief 
 care, as well as the Keys of it, I law the Holy 
 Relicks, and neat Church-plate belonging to this 
 Church. The Relicks are many, and richly en- 
 chafed in Gold and Silver. The Church Plate 
 is both plentiful and of great value, as many 
 Chalices of pure Gold fet with Jewels, huge Sil- 
 ver Candleflicks, with a Crucifix of the fame, as 
 heavy as a Man can lift, with a world of other 
 fuch like Plate. But that which pleafed me moft 
 here, was the ancient Picture of St. Peter and St. 
 Pauly which St. Silvefter fhewed to Conftantine the 
 Great, to confirm the truth of his Vifion. The 
 An ancient Pifture is very old, yet the faces are perceiva- 
 Picture. ble, and that is all. Its- fet in a frame of Silver. 
 The Hiftory of it is both long and known : And 
 ' if any man be ignorant of it, let him read it in 
 Baronius . There is alfo in the faid Sacrifty, a - 
 nother Pifbure nailed high upon the wall, which 
 was made by N. Carpi with his Fingers, inftead 
 of a Pencil. 
 
 under si Being now in the Sacriflv, I got leave to go 
 Peter’s * down into the Grot under this Church » with a 
 * church. y pradbi- 
 
Part ii. dje wage of italy. 3 1 
 
 praftical Clericus, with a lighted Torch to fhew 
 me and explicate unto me, the moil confideta- 
 ble things that are there As the Tomb of Sf. 
 
 Peter with an Altar over it, at which any Biflhop 
 or Prieft may fay Mafs : a world. of ancient fla- 
 mes (fet in the low Chappies , and in the wall of 
 this Grot) which belonged to the old Church of 
 St. Peter , and (hewing the Antiquity of Piftures 
 in Churches: The Tomb of the moil honoura- 
 ble Churchman of our Nation, Pope Adrian the Adrian the 
 IV. the only Englifh Pope that ever was : The IV - 
 Tomb of the Emperor Otbo the fecond, in a great pW mm ' 
 porphiry fhrine : The Tombs of divers other 
 great Popes and Cardinals : And in fine , the 
 Tombftone of Chorlotte oiLudgnanQxmi of Jem- 
 falem , Cyprus and Armenia, who having been dri- 
 - ven out of her Kingdom by her Baftard Bro- 
 ther, came to Rome in Sixtus Quart us his time, 
 and there died. She transferred before her death, 
 her right to theKingdorrt of Cyprus, to the Duke 
 of 9 Savoy her Brother in law ; which makes that 
 Duke give a clofe Crown over his Arms, and be 
 (filed by his Subje£ts, Alteiza Real , Royal High- 
 nefs* 
 
 Having thus feenthis Church both within and st Peter*# 
 under ground, I was defirousto fee italfo above, church a- 
 Amending therefore by a fair Stair-cafe , I arri - bovCt 
 ved at the great Terras over the Lodge , and 
 there faw the Thirteen Statues of our Saviour 
 and the Twelve Apoftles, near hand, which feem 
 below, a little taller than the Statue of our tal- 
 left men , and yet here above are eighteen Foot 
 high. There alfo I faw the feveral little Cupo- 
 las , which give light to the fide Chappies of 
 
3» tnogageof italy. Part n. 
 
 this Church, and look like the iffuc and fpawn 
 of the Great Cupola* Then mounting a little 
 higher, I beheld a rare Fabrick of die Mother 
 Cupola , both within and without. The Stairs to 
 mount up into it; the double Vault in it , and 
 Stairs between the two Vaults : The Lantern up- 
 on the Cupola : The narrow Stairs in one of the 
 Pillars of that Lantern, up to the Ball : Laftly ? 
 the ftraight neck of the paflage into the Ball, and 
 the Ball it fclf, are all worth particular obferva- 
 The round tion^as being the height of Archit:dure. The 
 Ball capa- Ball it fell of brafs guilt is capable of thirty Men, 
 bie of 30 though from below , it looks only as big as twice 
 Mcn ' a Mans Head. Wc were eight in it at once 5 and 
 
 I am fure we could have placed thrice as many 
 more. Upon the round Ball is mounted a great 
 Crofs of Iron guilt, to fignifie, that the yertue of : 
 the Crofs by our Saviours palfion, hath triumphed 
 over the World, of which this round Ball is the 
 exprefs emblem. From this Cupola we had a 
 perfect view of Rome under us , and of all the 
 Villas about it. But nothing was fo wonderful , 
 Pmfe of ^ to *-* ee Fetm Church and Pallace , look like 
 st. Peter V a Town under us, which we knew to be but one 
 chunk Church and Houfe. 
 
 You will wonder perchance too , when you 
 fhall hear that this Church is the eight wonder 
 of the World, that the Pyramids of Egypt , the 
 Walls of Babylon , the Pharos Coloffm , &cc» were 
 but heaps of Stones compared to this Fabrick : 
 That it hath put all Antiquity to the blufli, and 
 all pofterity to a Non plus 1 That its feveral parts 
 are all incomparable Mafter-peices : Its Piftures 
 all Originals : Its Statues perreft models : That 
 
Part n. €^e twopase Of ITALY. 33 
 
 it hath a revenue of above Twenty Thoufand 
 Pounds a year 3 only for the Fabrick : That it 
 hath coft till the year 1654. (The accounts be- Th * 
 ing then fummed up) Forty Millions of Crowns : St * 
 
 That moft of the Popes iince Julius the II. his chunk. 
 rime ( and they have been twenty three in all ) 
 have ncartened and advanced this work: That 
 the prime /rchite&s of the World , Sanga/la, 
 Bramante , Bald after e , Buonarota , Giacomo della 
 Porta 3 Giovani Fontana , Carlo Madermfmd now 
 Cavaliero Bernino y have brought it on to this perfe- 
 ction : That the whole Church it felf is nothing 
 but the Qpinteffence of wit and wealth, drained 
 into a religious defign of making a handfome 
 houfetoGod, and of fulfilling the divine Ora- 
 cle which promifed : that magna erit gloria do- Aggxi 2.?* 
 mus iftius mvijjimde^ flujquam f rim*. 
 
 Going at laft out o* this Church , and fum- 
 ming up in my thoughts all the rarities! had fem 
 in it, I began to think of Ammonias fa holy pri- 
 mitive Saint, and afterwards Bifhop in the Coun- 
 cil of Sardis) of Vvhom its written, that coming Bamius 
 to Rome with S. Athanafius , he defired to fee no- an * 29 °*”* 
 tiling there but S. Peter's Church, and knew net ^ 
 the way to any place elfe ; I think, that if this 
 good man had feen S. Peter's Church as it is now, 
 he would never have cared for feeing any thing 
 elfe in the World , and would even have forgot 
 his way home too. 
 
 . Near to the Church of S. Pet r (lands the ft a- Yb: V* ti- 
 tle an Palace «, where the Popes ufe to Winter. ^PaBue, 
 To deferibe it to you all at length, would take 
 me up too much time; nor indeed is it fit for me 
 to dwell there. I will therefore pais through it 
 
 C c quickly 
 
34 
 
 The fak 
 Rt'jjx. 
 
 'Tie Popes 
 Ckappel, 
 
 C^C dUO^age Of ITALY. Part II. 
 
 quickly, and rather point you out what’s to be feen 
 there,than pai t you out in words whatl faw there. 
 
 i . From the Church of St. Veter you afeend in- 
 to this Pallace by ancafy and ftatelv pair of Stairs 
 capable of ten Men a Bread:. Thele Stairs ren- 
 der 3^011 up at the great Hall called SaU Kegia } 
 becaufe the Pope receiveth here Emfcaffadorsof 
 Kings in their Emballies of State. It is beautified 
 with rare Pictures in a great volume : as that of 
 the Empcrour Frederic killing the Popes Foot, of 
 the Hand of Giofeppe del Salviati Garfaenino, 
 That of the Ligne in Fun erthatof ColignijhaXoi 
 the Pope condemning Herefy, that of the Pope re- 
 turning from JFvigmn^ are all of the hand of Geor- 
 gia Fajfaria. That of the Emp:ror Charles the gi e it 
 figning the brief of the donation, is of the hand 
 Thadeo Zaccare : that of the battle of Lepanto 
 with the pifture of Faith at the fide of it, is of 
 the hand of Donato Formello . 
 
 7 . This great Hall (lands between two Chan- 
 nels. the Paulina and the Sifta. In the Paulina 
 is feen a rare pidure of the crucifying of St. 
 Peter by Michael Angelo, The roof of italfo 
 was rarely painted by Fiderico Zvccari, but the 
 fmoak of the Candles upon Manday Tharp* 
 day, when this Chappel ferves for the Sepulcher, 
 hath fo defac’d thefe Pidures, that a far worfe 
 Hand would have ferrd there. 
 
 3. The Chappel of Sijlo is that in which the 
 Pope holds Capefla upon certain da\ r s, and where 
 all the Cardinals intervene. In the end of this 
 Chappel upon the Wall is Painted the lad judg- 
 ment by Micheal Angelo , a piece famous over all 
 the World. The green Garments of St. Kathe- 
 rine, 
 
Part ir. cfjewage of italy. 3 5 
 
 rine- 9 and the head of St. Biagio are of the Paint- 
 ing of Daniel of Molten a , who was prefentlv feta 
 work to make thofe Garments when the Pope had 
 given exprefs order, that his rare Pifhire ihould 
 be defac’d, .becaufe of fo. naked nefs in it. Up- 
 on great days tnis Chappy is hang with a rare 
 fiat of Hangings of the defign of R pheal Vrbin > 
 wrought with Gold and Silk, containing the A£is 
 of 5. Pet r and 5. Paul 
 
 4 . Behind thi$ Chappcl (lands the Popes Sacri- The Vopet 
 fly^a place fear ce kn own to ftrangers,and therefore Sacri fty* 
 feldom feen by them, tho very well worth the 
 feeing. Irs kept always by a Prelate, who is al- 
 ways an Auguftin Fryar and a Bifhop, and called 
 Monfignor Sacrifta. In Authors of high times 
 we find mention of this Officer, Under the names 
 of Cmliarcha , or chief Sacrifta n. Here I fa w 
 rare Church-Ornaments for the Popes ufe. Thefe 
 in particular I cannot let pafs without mentioning. 
 
 The cope of St. Pit wfter Pope, thirteen hundred 
 years ago. The neat chafuble of Cloth of Ti - 
 fue, with the Pidfures of the minifiring the 
 feven Sacraments all embroider’d in it in Silk and 
 Gold fo rarely, that the late Lord Marfhal of 
 England Tho. Lari of Arundel got leave to have 
 it painted out, and fo much the more willingly, 
 becaufe it had been given to the Pope by King 
 Henry the VIII a little before his Schifmc. Then 
 the incomparable fuits of Ornaments for Pried, 
 
 Deacon, and Sub-dcacon to be us’d in high Maf 
 which were given by King Sehaflian of Portugal , 
 and fet all over with Pearl, and thefe Pearls were 
 the firfithat came out of the Indies , and were in 
 all eight Hundred Pounds weight of Pearl. The 
 C c a other 
 
36 
 
 St. Lau- 
 rence his 
 Bead. 
 
 ©Of age Of ITALY, Part It 
 
 other rare things here, were the Head of St. Lau- 
 rence^ which I faw near at hand, through a crR 
 ftal : a piece of the Spunge, in which the Jem 
 gave our Saviour gall to drink : the Camijia of 
 St. Prifca a primitive Saint martyred in it 1400 
 years ago, the Crucifix in which is fee under a 
 criftal, a piece of the holy Crofs carved with the 
 paflionof our Saviour in it : a thorn of our Sa- 
 viours Crown of Thoms , which belonged to 
 Pirn quintmjL crofs fet with Diamonds and Pearls, 
 which the Pope wears at his breaft in great functi- 
 ons, a great Ring which he alfo weareth in fuch 
 Fun&ionsjit’s fet with a. fair Saphyr,and four great 
 Pearls ; a fair Crucifix enamel’d and befetwith 
 flore of Pearl and Jewels : the Popes Palli- 
 um which he wears in great Functions : the Fi- 
 ftula or Pipe of Gold, wherewith the Pope re- i 
 eeives the confecrated Blood of our Saviour in 1 
 the Chalice upon great days : the rare Chalices of 
 Gold fet with Pearl, ana yet more precious for 
 their Workmanship than for their matter 5 the 
 great Chalice of Gold, into which the Cardinals 
 put their written Votes in chufing the Pope by 
 Scrutiny 5 the five triple Crowns called R egntj 
 four whereof are fet thick with precious (tones 
 and Pearls of great value, and therefore ordinarily 
 kept in the Caftle Angelo : two Mitres of the fame 
 Richnefs 5 the chryftial Pixein which the Blcffed 
 Sacrament is kept in the Sepulcher upon Mandav 
 Thursday : In fine the Book of the Gofpel’s 
 painted in Mi mature by the famous Giulia Glorio y 
 for whole firft picture here ( of the lad Judgment) 
 
 < Paulm Teirkcs lent him fifteen hundred Piflols, 
 as Monjigmr Sacrifta allured me. 
 
 5. Paffing 
 
Part if. nonage of Italy. 3 7 
 
 5. Palling from hence through the Sala again. 
 
 I was led into the great Room hard by, where 
 the Pope walheth the Feet of thirteen Pilgrims 
 upon Monday Thursday ; and then giveth e- 
 very one of them a great meddal of Gold with 
 four Piftols ? and another of Silver. 
 
 6 . Thence 1 was led into the open Gallery GaJm 
 which looketh upon the Court 5 I mean the k-k r ypJmci 
 condLodg (for there are three luch open Galle- by fypbad. 
 ries) where the Hiftories of the Bible are paint- 
 ed mod curioufly in the roof of it by prime Ma- 
 tters. That of Adam and the Creation : that 
 
 where Atezzfows: that where the Sheep drink? 
 that where Jacob faw the Ladder : that of the 
 laft Supper of Chrift with his A pottles : that 
 where Mofes (hews the Laws are all of the hand 
 of 'Raphael Vrbin . That of the Deluge, and of 
 the adoration of the golden Calf are or the hand 
 of Raphael dal Bor go. That where Jofue com- 
 mands the Sun to hop : that of Berfabe and the 
 like, are of the hand of Pierino del Vago- That 
 of the Chariot and feme others arc of the hand 
 Caravagio. That of Mofes ftriking the Rock; 
 that of the Judgment of Solomon , and fome o~ 
 thers are of the hand of Julio Romano. That of 
 the Baptifm of Chrift, with other fuch like, are 
 of the hand of Pellegrino da Modena . Yet be- 
 caufe in all thefe Pi&ures Raphael Vrbin gave ei- 
 ther the defign, or fome touches, this Gallery is 
 called Raphael’s Gallery : Indeed nothing but 
 the Divine Hiftory it felf can be finer than this 
 Painting of Divine R aphael And it belongs only 
 to Rome to have the Bible fet out thus in its own 
 colours : and if Pictures be the beft Books tor ig- 
 C c 3 norant 
 
38 C!je MOta&Z Of ITALY. Part II. 
 
 norant People , who can fay chat the Bible is 
 kept from the people here feeing it’s painted and 
 printed here in the mod vulgar Tongue, and 
 known Language, Piftures > In a word, Raphaels 
 Colours feemed to me to illuftrate the Text very 
 much, and to be an excellent Comment upon 
 the Holy Scripture. 
 
 7. From this Gallery I was led into the great 
 Chamber, where Conftanthes Victory ovd* Ma- 
 
 Conjldn - xentim is fo rarely painted upon the Walls by Ra- 
 tines Bai- ghaels own Hand ; that this painting ferves this 
 MaxLtm, Chamber not only for arich Tapeftryjbut alio for 
 an Internal Tropnee to that Emperor. The fe- 
 vcral Poftures here of Men and Horfes all in Con- 
 fufion, yet all in fuehdue proportion make this 
 The bejl k- picture (in the Judgment of Monjieur Poujjin a fa- 
 Qureintb* mous Fainter) the rareft thing in the World for 
 world. " defign. In the other following Rooms there are 
 divers other rare pieces of the fame hand; as 
 that of Attila and Pope Leo : that of St. Peter in 
 Prifbn, a piece much admired for the perlpe&ive 1 
 of it : That of the B. Sacrament ^ that of the 
 burning of the Borgo : that of JEnea* carrying 
 his Father Anchifes out of the Flames, are of Ra- 
 phaels hand. The Hiftory of Heliodcms over the 
 Chimney ,is of the hand of Julio Romano JR aphaels 
 Schollar. B 
 
 8. Cjoing up from hence into the higheft open 
 Gallery, you 9 ] find it painted with Geographical 
 Maps of the Hand of Antonio da Vare[e . The 
 roof of it is alfo well Painted by P.merancio y Pa- 
 ri* Romano, and Bfcnz.ini , excellent Painters all. 
 
 'silt ck- 9 - Then coming down, I faw the Salt Clamen - 
 m Kii-ia. tir.A a Noble racm. The rare pcrfpe&ives in * 
 
 the 
 
Part II. tWO^agt Of ITALY. 39 
 
 the Roof , and in one of the Comers, both of 
 them exprclfing the Arms of Clement the VIII. 
 are worth your attentive conlideration. 
 
 10. Then the divers Chambers of his Holi- 
 nefs, hung all with Damask Hangings in Sum- 
 mer, and Velvet Hangings in VVinter, are very 
 neat. I the Popes Bed-chamber, I faw the grave 
 Pi£t urc of our Lady with her Son in her Arms, 
 called S. Mary Major , its painted curioully upon 
 a white Tranfparent Stone, three fingers thick , 
 and yet , Hewing the Pi&ure on both lidcs , ir 
 held before the San. 
 
 u. The great Room guilt over head, where 
 the Pope treats at Dinner great Princes , when 
 they come to 'Rome. 
 
 n. The old Appartment of Tins Quints ; 
 with the great wooden Bed , or rather the little 
 wooden Chamber of Paulas Quintus . 
 
 13* The rare piece of Pcrlpe&ive, over the A **** 
 door of the long Room leading to the Gallery of 
 Maps. At the firfl looking upon it, you lee no- us 
 thing but certain Types or Figures of the Biel- 
 fed Sacrament out of the Old Teftament, but 
 being placed directly under it, and looking up- 
 wards, you fee all the forclaid Types contract- 
 ed into the form of a Callice, and an Holt over 
 it ; to fne v, that thofc old Types and Shadows, 
 prefigured only the Bodv and Blood of our Sa- 
 viour, in the holv Sacrifice of the Altar. 
 
 14. The long Gallery of the Maps of Italy T j :e rtYC 
 painted upon the Walls on both fides, by Paul us Gallery of 
 Brillus a Flemming and others •, and that lo di- Mj P } - 
 ItinCtly, that you fee plainly every State , Pro- 
 vince, City, River, Village, Caftle, high way of 
 G c 4 Italy, 
 
40 c$e ©fc^age Of ITALY. Part IL 
 
 Italy s and where any famous battle was fought, 
 either in the Romans time pr fince : A Gallery 
 which I wiih I had fpent as many hours in, a s i 
 fpend days in going up to Rome. Divers other 
 Galleries there are in this Houfe, which I pafs o- 
 ver in iilence. 
 
 *4* ^ L1C I cannot pafs over fo, the long Gallery 
 luvl. ° ?l ' lading to the Belvedere , in which is kept the 
 Conclave of all Popes : In this one great Room, 
 Fifty or Threefcore Cardinals lodge, and have 
 every cne two Chambers, one for himfelf, and 
 the other for his Conclavift ; Ex ungye Leonem, 
 you may judge by this what the whole Houfe is $ 
 
 , or elfe bv this what they allure you, when they 
 tell you, that there are five Thoufana Chambers 
 in that Palace. 
 
 The Vati- 1 5 . From the middle of the forefaid Gallery, 
 can Libra- you enter into the Vatican Library, famous all 
 r) ’ 9 the learned world over, for having in it, belides 
 the Regifters of the Roman Church, the choiceft 
 Manufcripts of the World in holy Languages* 
 This Barcnim found,' who drew from hence no- 
 table fuccor, for the maintaining this Eccleliafti- 
 cal Hiftory againft the Centuriators of Magde - 
 ko'irg, who wanting thefe allured aims , and be- 
 ing ctherwife wrongly bialfed , made faults in 
 their Hillorv as many as their Centuries, and as 
 great as their Volums. The delcription of this 
 Library hath been made by learned AngelmRoc- 
 ca in Latin? and by Mitius Banja in Italian : Yet 
 for the latisfa&ion of my curious Countrymen, 
 
 I lhall fay fomething of it. Firft the Room is a 
 vaft long Room, fpreading it felf in the further 
 epd, into two wings of building , which are full 
 
part ii. roofage of italy. 4 i 
 
 of Preflfes, where the Manufcripts are kept care- 
 fully from Mice and Rats, and moift weather. 
 
 At the entrance into this Library, you are let in- 
 to a fair Chamber full of Desks for a dozen of 
 Writers , who have good ftipends to copy out 
 Books in all Languages ; and they are bound to 
 be writing fo many hours in a morning. Round 
 about this room hang the Pictures of all the Car- 
 dinals that have been Billiotbxmi fince Sixtus 
 Quintus his time. Then entring into the Li- r ^ z '*^ 
 braiy it felf , I law the vaft wide room fuppor - ry 
 ted ("like a Church.) by great fquare Pillars, a- 
 bout which are as many Cupboards where the 
 Manufcripts are conferved. On the wall on the 
 right hand , are painted in Frefco the General 
 Councils of the Church , with the Bible in the 
 midft, laying open upon a (lately Throne , and 
 with the order and place of precedency obler- 
 vecHn them : As alfo fome notable Accidents in 
 Ecdefiaftical Hiftory. On the left hand are 
 painted all the famous Libraries anciently men- 
 tioned by Authors : And upon the great Pillars 
 are painted the firffc Inventors and Promoters of 
 Learning. This long room (breads it felf at laft 
 into tvvo wings on each hand ; both which are 
 full of curious books, both Manufcripts and Prin- 
 ted Books ; divers of which were fhewn me with 
 great civility, by Monfignor Holftonius then Kee- 
 per of this Library ,whom I had formerly known. 
 
 The chief of thele Books were thefe. 
 
 A vaft Hebrew Bible too heavy for any man 
 to lift up. 
 
 An Ancient copy of the SeftuagintsT ranflation Some rare 
 in Greek, after which the Bible hath been Prin - B9oks hsre ° 
 ted both in Home and London. The 
 
4 * 
 
 €f)Z fflio^age of ITALY. Part II. 
 
 The Afts of the Apofties in Greek, curioufly 
 written in Golden Letters. 
 
 The Gofpel written by St. Cbryfofiom*$ own 
 hand. 
 
 • An Hebrew Bible written in fheets of Parch- 
 ment parted to one another,and rowled up : Hence 
 the word Volumen'i or a Book. 
 
 A little Book written in Bark of Trees : Hence 
 the word Folium for a Leaf in a Book. 
 
 Certain old Roman Table-books. 
 
 A China Table-book of Wood, in which they 
 wrote with a pointed Steel. 
 
 A curious China Book all in Hieroglyphics , 
 and folded up in many folds : Our Pur chat in 
 his curious # Navigations hath both Printed and 
 deciphered it. 
 
 Polidore Virgil's Hiftoryof England , written 
 with his own hand. 
 
 An old Book of Sermons in Latin , in whofe 
 Margin S. Thmat of Again had made notes with 
 his own hand. 
 
 An old Vergil with the Pictures of the Hiftory 
 in old Painting. 
 
 An old Terrence written Twelve Hundred 
 years ago, and the ancienteft that ever Tolitan 
 faw, as he tertifieth under his own hand , in the 
 infide of the cover of this book. 
 
 Baronius his Annals in his own hand Wri- 
 ting. 
 
 The rare quotations out of the ancient Fa- 
 thers, painfully and faithfully Gollefted out of 
 the beft Copies, by Learned Cardinal Sirleto , in 
 the rime of the Council of Trent , and fent by 
 him weekly, by the Port, from R om^ to the Fa- 
 thers 
 
Part II. WOPSe Of ITALY. 43 
 
 thers in the Council , who proceeded to their 
 definitions , by the Antient Tradition of the 
 Church , found fo plainly and unanimoufly in 
 thofe Fathers. Thofe Quotations make fix Vo- 
 lums in Folio : And this was it, which our ad- 
 verfaries call, the fending down of the Holy 
 Ghoft to Trent , in a Cloak-bag ; when it was 
 only the fending down of thefe faithful Teftimo- 
 nies of the Tradition of the Church , gathered 
 out of the mod Antient and Authentic Copies. 
 
 The Letters of Henry the VIII. of England to K* Henry 
 Ann Bolen his Miftrifs then , in his own hand VIII# 
 Writing, fome in Englifh^ fome in Fren:h^ but ^ Ann Bo- 
 all Amatory. It is eafie to imagine them writ- i en . 
 ten. by him, if you compare the Hand-writing 
 of thefe Letters, with thofe two Verfes written 
 by the Kings own hand, in the Frontifpice of the 
 following Book, to wit. 
 
 The Book which the faid H wrote againft Mar - K: Henry 
 tin Lnther^xA dedicated it by a couple of Latin far- 
 fes , written with his own Hand, in the Frontifpice of 
 it, to Pope Leo the X.: W hich Book purchafed to K. ther. 
 
 Hen. the HonourableTitle of Defender of the Faith. 
 
 Then I was (hewn the Library of the Duke of 
 Vrbin , who dying without Heirs Male, bequea- fr C 
 thed his Library ho the Vatican Library here. In urbin . J 
 this, I faw many rare Manulcripts written in 
 Parchment, and painted in miniature : Efpecially 
 that Book, in whofe Margins are Painted by a 
 rare hand, and wonderful diligence , all the in- 
 fers in nature , in their lively Colours and true 
 Refemblance. 
 
 Over againft this Library, they fhewed me v in The Libra r 
 the fame Room, the Library of 'fieidelberg , , fent ^eibei? 1 * 
 
 to 
 
44 ffltopage Of ITALY. Partll. 
 
 to Rome by the Duke of Bavaria , after he liad 
 difpofleffea the Ele&or Frederick Prince Palatin 
 of Rhene, of his Country, as well as of the King- 
 dom of Bohemia which he had feized on, at the 
 mitigation of Bethelem Gabor and others. See 
 the Mercure Francois. They (hewed me here, a- 
 mong divers other books, the book of defigns of 
 the (aid Prince EleSor Palatin , which he had de- 
 figned being young. Happy Prince , if he had 
 not defigned to himfelf another Mans Crown. 
 The place In the great room of this Library, there is an 
 *fR(gifters. j ron ^ w hl c h letteth you into a more fecret 
 room , where the Remitters of the Church of 
 Rom are kept : The Keeper of which Regifters 
 was anciently called Chartularm • an Office much 
 like to that in the Greek Church 5 called Char - 
 topbylax. 
 
 In fine. I was (hewn here divers Letters of 
 great Perlons and Princes, written with their own 
 hands, as of S. Charles Boromeus , to Cardinal 
 . , Sirleto , who had a hand in his education 5 of 
 
 ters of Queen Mary of England ; King Philip the Sc- 
 great Per- cond of Spain her Husband, (filing himfelf King 
 Jons. 0 f Spain, England and France 5 of Francis the 
 firft of France 5 of Margeret of Parma that Go- 
 verned Flanders when it revolted $ of Prefident 
 Varga* a Spaniard , and a great Statefman in 
 Flanders , but no great Latinift, as it appeared by 
 his Anfwer to tne Do&ors of Lovain ( petitio- 
 Jfarjh La - ning him in Latin for their priviledges^ when he 
 ** n ' faid 5 Non curamiis voflros privilegios . Mali fa* 
 xerunt templa 5 boni nihil faxerunt contra : Ergo de- 
 bent omnes patibulari : The terms of the expoftu- 
 lation , being as harfh as the concluflon of it 5 
 
 and 
 
Part II. €% motagC Of ITALY. 45 
 
 and fome old polite Orators had rather have 
 been hanged indeed, than thteatned in fuch bad 
 Latin. 
 
 A little before 1 went out of this Library, I 
 faw near the door , the Statue of Hyfpolitus Bi- 
 fliopof Portm ("who lived 1400 years agoj fit- 
 ting in a Chair of ftone , upon which is cut in Can0 * W* 
 Greek Letters, the ancient Canon Pafchal up- chalis * 
 on which Scbaliger and others have written. Its 
 a curious piece of Learned Antiquity , and wor- 
 thy to be taken notice of. 
 
 16, Having fecn the Library we were led on 
 
 by the long Gallery mentioned before, unto the The B:lve- 
 Belvedere* where we delcended into the Popes pri- 
 vate Garden, full of Orange-trees, fine Walks, 
 and Fountains. Here are three or four unavoid- 
 able wetting places to thofe that are not acquaint- 
 ed with them. Hence you go down to fee the rare 
 Fountain of the Iron Ship. In this Garden I faw The greet 
 the Pineapple of Brafs guilt, which is as great as Plnta PP k ' 
 three men can fathom about , and twice as high as 
 the talleft men can reach. Here alfo (land by it 
 the two great peacocks of brafs guilt, which flood 1 iacoc s * 
 anciently upon Scifito Affricams his tomb, and are 
 fome three or four yards long. The Belve- 
 
 1 7. From hence wc were led hard by, to fee dire r °[ the 
 the Belvedere of the Mafchere , which Muhtfi Mafchere * 
 Angelo- called his Study. Its a fquare Court fet 
 
 with Orange-trees , in whofe walls are great 
 Niches 2 with leaves to them of wood, where 
 the choice Starnes of the World are confervCd 
 under Lock and Key, arid free from ill weather. 
 
 The chiefeft Statues are thefe : That of the Ri- Sta* 
 Ver Niks, and that of Tyler ^ both in cumbent tuer * 
 
 pofiures: 
 
4 6 mt&%t Of ITALY. Part II. 
 
 poftures : That of Animus , minion of the Empe- 
 ror AdnartyXs of pure Oriental Marble, and rarely 
 cut . That of Cleopatra : That of Verris coming ;out 
 of a Bath : That of Cmmodus the Emperor : i hat 
 of Laocoon and his Sons, involved about with Sci- 
 pentsThis Statue of Laocoon is the Matter pi' cc of 
 Sculpture.That in the middle of theCourt,of#mr i- 
 les without Arms,Legs,or Head, is fo rare a trunck, 
 that Michael Angelo profefled,he had learned more 
 Michael skill out of that broken Statue, then out of all the 
 Angelo s w | 10 le ones he had ever feen. Hence you fee al- 
 u h ways a world of Sculptures defigning it out : A 
 piece of Lyons skin, yet appearing, made me not 
 doubt but it was the Statue of Hercules . 
 
 The great Froth hence we ftept into the great Car- 
 Garden of denof the Balvedere, full of Exotick Trees, cu- 
 Behedere. rious Fountains, fhady Walks, and great variety 
 of Grots and wetting fports. 
 
 The Amo - *9- Laftly , in your return again through the 
 
 ry. Vatican Pallace , we faw the Armory full of 
 Arms for Thirty Thoufand Mcn,Horfe and Foot, 
 and well kept. 
 
 Having thus feen the Vatican Pallace , I went 
 on with the reft of the curiofkies of the Town , 
 and took them in order as they lay. Hence go- 
 ing from S. Peters , and leaving the Pallace of the 
 The Santo Santo Officio , on my right hand, I came prefent- 
 Oflkio ly to the Hofpital of S. Spirito , which is hard 
 uiofsu ky- The fituation of this Hofpital near to S. Pe- 
 Spirito. ters Church, was not done cafually; but with- 
 out doubt , upon defign and for this end , that 
 Men might learn by the very fituation of Hof- 
 pitals, near unto great Churches fas I obferved 
 in many other places, both in Italy and France) 
 
 that 
 
Part II. CJ?e Of ITALY. 47 
 
 that Chriftians, after they have performed their 
 duties to God, ought to pay in the next place 
 their duties to their Neighbour; and let that 
 faith , which they came irom exercihng in rhe 
 Church towards God, be made appear by good 
 works , exercifcd prefently in Holpitals toward 
 Men. Now this Hofpital of S. Spin to ^ is one of 
 thefairefr in Europe both for bignefs and revenues. 
 
 It hath aThoufand Beds in it for the fick : A Pre- 
 late to govern it ; (lore of Priefts, Phyficians, and 
 under Officers to attend on them , and a revenue 
 of Seventy Thoufand Crowns a year. There is 
 alfo a Monaftry of Women in it, in a place fepa- 
 rated from the reft, capable of 500 young girls. 
 
 In the appartments above flairs there is hand- 
 fomc accomodation for poor Gentlemen, found- 
 ed bv the Gentleman like Charity of Pope Urban 
 the VIII, to this end, that thofe whom fortune 
 had priviledged by better Birth, might not be in- 
 volv’d in common miferies. There is alfo a 
 grate towards the ftreet, where little Infants are 
 put into a fquare hole of a Turn, and lb turned * 
 in by Night by their unlawful Mothers, who not 
 daring to own them, would otherwile dare tode- 
 ftrov them. Conftamine the great founded fuch Lewis 
 Hofpitalsfor expofed Children. The perfon that Guyon in 
 brings the Child in the Night rings a little Bell, 
 whofe Rope hangs at the outfide of that grate, * * 
 and an Officer within comes prefently and recei- 
 veth it;and having firft asked whether it be baptiz’d 
 or no,carrieth it prefently away,and recommends 
 'it to a Nurfe, of which there are always ftore in 
 readinds entertain’d there at the coft of the Hof- 
 pital on the Womans fide of the Houfc. When 
 
 the 
 
48 tityt flIIOgageOf ITALY. Part ft 
 
 the Children arc grown fit for Inftrudtion , 
 they are fet to trades, the Girls are carefully 
 brought up by religious Women there, till they 
 be fit for Marriage or a Nunnery, according to 
 their Vocation. 
 
 Onofri- . h rom hence I went to Onofrios Church upon the 
 os church, hill, where I faw the Tomb and Picture over it,of 
 rare Torquato Tafo ; whofe warlike Mufe is able 
 The Tomb to infpire mettle into his readers Bread, and dif- 
 °f To L' r pofe him to the engagement, of a new Croifade 
 quatoTaf- a g air? ft tl}C Turks. # This I can fay of him if 
 Virgil hinder’d him from being the firft of 
 Poets, he hinder’d Virgil from being the only \ 
 Poet. # 
 
 Returning down again, and going along the I 
 Longer a , I faw the (lately Pallace of the Duke of 
 rnurir Sahiati on the right hand, and the Villa of Chiji j 
 11 (now called the Garden of Farnejip nthe Left hand. 
 
 In this Villd I (aw rare painting attributed to Ra- 
 phael Vrlin. 
 
 Over againfl this Garden, lives now the Qiieen 
 of Suede, in whofe Pallace befides the rare hang- 
 in gs of Cloth of Gold, and of Arras, hangings 
 r aiiace. dS °f Silk and Gold,] faw a curious Collection of Pi- 
 ctures, Originals all, a d of the prime Mailers 
 of the World : That of 5r. Thomas Moor is with- 
 out doubt of Hans Holhaim hand,and a rare piece. 
 
 Faffing on the Lon gar a frill, I came to the For- 
 tfrSeptmiana, fo called from Septimus Sevens, 
 who built here his Therm $ and fo up the hill to 
 s. Vxncra- Saint Tancratius his gate, and to the Church of 5 
 tius his t j iat Saint poifeffed now by difcalced Carmelits. 
 Cameteri - Under tffis Church is the C<zmeterim Calefodii y 
 um Call- where many Martyrs Bodies were Buried. Here 
 pod#. was | 
 
Part II. C^C Of ITALY. 49 
 
 was buried Crefcentim the Tyrant, who fcizing 
 upon the Caftle Angelo fWay’d all in Rome for 
 a while. 
 
 From hence I wart to the Villa P.mfilia , which Pm* 
 
 is hard by. It's a new Villa but its feared very f lia * 
 high, and from the terrefs upon the top of the 
 Houfe you have a fine Profpedl. There are di- 
 vers good Pidures and Statues in the houfe, and 
 fine Water-works, and a Grot t a in the Garden- 
 The befl Pidlures here are the Crucifixion of St. 
 
 Peter, and the Converfionof St. 1W, of MR 
 chael Angelos ’s hand. The entry of the Animals 
 into the Ark of Noah is a rare piece : the befl Sta- 
 tues are the wreftling of Jacob with the Angel in 
 white Marble : Seneca's Statue, and the Bufto of 
 Innocent the X. of Porphiry : and his Head in 
 Brafs, \ 
 
 Returning again into the Town the fame way’ 
 we came. I (aw the brave Fountain made by 
 Paidu* quintm , who caufed the water to b zThe Foun» 
 brought thither from the Lake of Brace tana a- l * ln ?f _ 
 bove thirty Miles off, by a ffately Aquedudl; auus * 
 and from Hence it is difpers’d into the City, and 
 there makes new Fountains. 
 
 Hard by frauds the Convent of Fra net [cans san.Pfctro 
 upon a Hill, called St. Pietro Montano , where Montorio . 
 Sr. Peter was Crucified with his Head downward, 
 in that very place of the Court where there’s now 
 a round Chappel Entring into the Church I 
 was much taken with the Pifture, for the high 
 Altar reprefenting our Saviours Transfiguration. 
 
 It was the lafl and befl piece of Raphael Vrbins 
 making, and then I may fay it is the beft in the 
 World, I guefs it to be the bell of Raphaels pie- 
 Dd * ces 5 
 
 , / 
 
50 ®Jje mow&t Of ITALY. Part II. 
 
 CCS ; becaufe dying he commanded that this Pi- 
 flare of all his Pictures fhould he fet up at his 
 Feet after his Death. In this Church lies buried 
 the Earl of Tyrone , who fled from Ireland hither 
 in Queen Elizabeths time. Here are two fine 
 Statues in Marble of St. Peter and St. Paul, of the 
 hand of Mich a l Angelo. 
 
 Going out of this Church you have a fair 
 fight of Rom under you from this Hill. This 
 Mons Hill was anciently called Janie ulus ; and upon it 
 mcu HS ' was buried Statius the Poet, and at the Foot of it 
 Hum a Pomplim. 
 
 lx Sexla. Near c ^ e ^ 00t l ^ s ftands the Church 
 and Convent of the Sc ala belonging to the Dif- 
 calced Camelits . The high Altar is very neat, 
 and the good Fathers {hewed us in a little Chap- 
 pel within the Convent the Foot of St. Therafa , 
 which is plainly feen through a Chryftal, in 
 which it’s kept. 
 
 rixTrin- Nor far from hence (lands Santa Maria Tran - 
 ftevere. ftwere, the firft Church built in Rome (faith Ba- 
 ronin*) and built there where antiently flood the 
 Txbema Taber n^e meritoriv, where, the maimed Soldiers 
 Memorial received their Pittance daily. The guilt Roof, 
 and the two rows of Marble Pillars, do mtich 
 beautify this Church. Under the high Altar is 
 yet feen the place where Oil iffued out, as from 
 a fountain a little before our Saviours Birth, as 
 denouncing his Birth to be at hand, who was 
 to be called Chriftus , that is anointed. In this 
 Church lie buried Cardinal V\ofiws,2. moll learned 
 Trent Father, and Cardinal Campegins the Popes 
 Legat vf England, in Henry the VIJI time. You 
 fee here the Stone that was ty’d about the Neck 
 
 of 
 
Part II. €i)tWOtm Of ITALY. 5 1 
 
 of St. Calixtu/s Pope, when he was thrown into 
 a Well. 
 
 Here alfo you fee great round (tones which were 
 hung at the Feet of the Martys to torment 
 them. 
 
 The convent of Franc if can Fryars, called S.s.Fran- 
 Francefco in rip a grande is hard by, where Ifaw ce h in gi- 
 the Chamber where great St. Francis lodged 
 when he lived in Rom • Its now turned into a 
 Chappel. In the Church there is an excellent 
 Pi&ure of Piety, made by Caracdo . Here in the 
 Church is the Tomb of Be at a Ludovica Mathei 
 of the third order of St. Francis. 
 
 I took the Rip a Grande in my way, and (aw Zip a Cun - 
 there the Boats of Merchandife which come to dSi 
 Rome from Ligorn , Civita Fee hi a, Naples , and o- 
 ther places, and difembark their goods here. 
 
 From the Rip a I went to St. Cicilies Church, S fjf lct !* es 
 built where her Houfe .was, and where fbe was c un ’ 
 put to Death for theChriftian Religion. Under _ 
 the high Altar of this Church is the Tomb of this rombl ^ 
 primitive Saint, with her Statue in a Couchant 
 Port 11 re, and juft as her Body was found in Clement 
 the VIII time, wrapt up in vails ftain’d with 
 Blood ; and covered with a Robe of Gold. The 
 neat Decoration before the high Altar, with the 
 Silver Lamps burning before the Tomb of this 
 Saint, was the Foundation of Cardinal Sfrndratio 
 At the end of this Churchy as you come in, are 
 feen yet the ftoves in which St. Sicily was fhut 
 up in her own houfe to beftifled, but that failing 
 fhe was Beheaded. The ftoves are yet entire, and 
 (hewing the manner of the antient ftoves. In the 
 Church-Porch I found the Tomb of one Adam an 
 D d 2 Ehglifh 
 
5 * 
 
 Cardinal 
 Adams 
 Tomb • 
 
 For Fait . 
 
 St. Ckryfo- 
 gonujs . 
 
 Cardinal 
 Robert 
 Archb. 
 of Fork. 
 
 St. Bartho- 
 lomews 
 Tomb. 
 
 ©ot?age of italy. Part n. 
 
 glijh Bilhop of London , and Cardinal of this Ti- 
 tle 5 who died in R« An. 1 397. It hath thele 
 Verfes upon it. 
 
 Artibivs ifle fater famofiis in omnibus Adam 
 Theologus fumm>A$ x Cardinalhque erat 
 
 Anglia cui fatriam, tit dim dedit ifla Beat# 
 JEdes Cdeciliae , morfqu: fupnma Polum . 
 
 Not far from this Church, (lands St. Chyfogo - 
 his Church, a neat Church repair’d fome : 
 years ago by by Cardinal Burgbejl The four Pil- J 
 larsof the high Altar look as if they were of j 
 S and and Chryflia] petrified together. On the 1 
 Left-hand of the Wall near the great doorlies i 
 buried Kolert Arch-Bifhop of TorL and titular 
 of this Church, this was all I could learn out of 
 the Tombftone. 
 
 Having thus wandred over the Traftevtre , I 
 made towards the lie of St-Barthohmew. in which 
 (lands a good Hofpital and a convent of Francis- 
 can in whofe Church repofeth under the high , 
 Altar in a fair Porphyry Tomb, the Body of St. 
 Bartholomew Apoftle. This lie was antientlv cal-* 
 led Inf da Tiberina, and it was firfi: made by the ; 
 Corn of Tarquinius Suferbu. q which being (after 
 his ejedtion out of the City) pluck’d up by the 
 roots, and thrown into the River, by reafon of 
 the quantity of Earth that ftuck to the roots, Hop- 
 ped here where the Water was low 5 and this (lop- 
 page once begun, all the Mud of the River came 
 afterwards to (lop here too ; and fo in time to 
 form a little lie in the midft of the River. 
 
 Going 
 
Part il woya ge of it aly. 5 3 
 
 Going out of the Ue by the Bridg of four 1>0n ' tt 
 Heads, anciently called Ports Fa 1 ruins , which ^ ano Ca ' 
 joyns this lie with the City , 1 looked down the 
 River on my Right Hand, to fee the Porn Sub- Fom f u ^ 
 hciivs , which Cocks alone defended againft an Ar- liem. 
 my, till the Bridge was cut down behind him : 
 
 Which he perceiving leapt into the River armed 
 I and fwom fate to his fellow Citizens, who were as 
 glad to fee him come off fafe, as to find them- 
 ielves fafe. It was called Pons Sublicim , from the 
 word Sublica in Latin, which fignifies great Beams 
 of Wood, of which it was made : It was after- 
 wards built of Stone by JEwiilins. From this 
 Bridge the wicked Emperor Heliogabulws was 
 thrown into the River and drowned with a great 
 ftone about his neck. 
 
 No fooner was I over this Bridge , but I faw 
 on my left hand, the great back door of the Jew- TheJewj, 
 ry ; for here the Jem live altogether in a Cor- ' 
 ner’of the Town, and are locked up every night. 
 
 I entred into their Synagogues here (which they 
 call their Schools) where they meet upon Satur- 
 days and fing and pray. 
 
 I wondered at firft, that they had learned no 
 more manners in thefe their Schools, than to en- 
 ter into them to pray, without either putting off 
 Hats, lifting up Eyes, or bending of Knees to the 
 great Jehova , whom they rather fear than love. 
 
 Mofes going to him, put off his Shooes, and I 
 expected , that thefe Men fhould at lead 5 have 
 put off their Hats at the entrance into their Sy- 
 nagogues : But they are Arch Clowns, and their 
 fowl Towels, at the entrance into their Svna- 
 gogues, cold me as much. I once faw a Circum- 
 D d 3 cifion, 
 
c$e ©towage of italy. Part il 
 
 cifion, but it was fo painful to the Child, that it 
 was able to make a Man heartily thank God that 
 he is a Chriftian. And really, if the little Child 
 could fpeak and wiih, I believe he would with 
 ~ himfelf the greateft curie in the World , and to 
 be a Woman rather than a Man upon fuch 
 terms. I law alfo a Marriage here performed 
 with many Ceremonies. 
 
 Returning out of the Jewry by the fame Gate ■ 
 I entred, I faw on my left hand, the Pallace of 
 Prince Sazelii : Its built upon the ruins of the 
 Theitrum Theater of Marcellut , built by Auguftm , in ho- 
 MmeUu nour 0 f Nephew Manellm : It was capable 
 of Fourfcore Thoufand Men. 
 
 Santa Ma- Puffing on, I came to an Ancient Church cal- 
 ria in co[- led Santa Maria in Cofmdin , or in Scbola Oreca , 
 mdin. where St. Auflin, before his Converfion , taught 
 Rhetorick. In the Porch of this Church (lands 
 a great round ftone, cut into the face of a NJan, 
 with a great wide mouth, commonly called, La 
 Bacca Ma Jjacca della zerita , the mouth of rruth ; but this j 
 renxa. not being affirmed by the mouth of truth, I dare 
 not believe it : I rather believe it ferved in fomc 
 
 old building for a Gutter fpout : I know truth 
 may fpeak loud and have a wide Mouth ; but he 
 that takes every wide mouth for the mouth of 
 truth 5 is much mifiaken. 
 
 St: Maria The next Church I came to was Santa Maria 
 gj'pttaca, £gy-p t j aca . j c was t b e Temple of the Sun and 
 Jufiter. This Church is neatly adorned with 
 curious chanelled Pillars.lt belongs to the Armeni- 
 ans^ who have an Hofpital alfo here, belonging to 
 the Catholick Pilgrims of that Country : And 
 the Pope allows them to celebrate Mafshere after 
 their own Armenian rite. On 
 
Part II. Of ITALY. 55 
 
 On the other fide of the great P'iclz.zjl ftands 
 the Church of St. Steven. Its rounded with cha- 
 nelled Pillars alio. It was anrientiy the Temple 
 of Juno Mamina, Morning Juno, or Alba Dea, 
 the break of Day Goddeis : A Goddefs which 
 our Ladies that never rife till noon, would ne- 
 ver have been devout to. 
 
 Glofe by this Church (which ftands by theRi- The Cloaa 
 ver fide) the great fink of Rowe, called Coaca 
 Maxima, emptied it felf into Tyler. And tho 
 this were but a fink , yet it deferves to be men- 
 tioned among the rare Magnificencies of ancient 
 Rome. For it was nobly built by Tarquimus PnR 
 cm, of Free-ftone, Arched over head, with a 
 world of Springs running into it : And it was fo 
 great, that a Cart might have gone in it. This 
 link was one of the evident tokens of the great- 
 nefs and magnificence of Rome anciently ; and in- Maris 0 c 
 deed a far greater evidence than that of Heltoga- Rome’/ 
 balm-, who caufea all the Spiders Webs of Rome greatnefs 
 to be gathered together and weighed, that by fo anciently. 
 many pound weight of Spiders Webs, thegreat- 
 nefs of Rome might the better be conjectured. 
 
 Going on from hence by the River fide, I 
 came to the foot of the Mount Aventin , and left 
 on my left hand , a Chappel belonging to the 
 Knights of Malta. Our Antiquaries tell us, that 
 near to this place flood the Temple of the Bona The Temple 
 Dea, into which no Man was to enter : And that ^ Bona 
 Cacus his Den was alfo in the fide of this Hill, 
 into which he drag^d Hercules his Oxen by the 
 t tails, that no man fhould find out his theft by the :u 
 Footfteps. Upon the fide of this hill flood alfo 
 the Sc aide Oemnide , down which criminal Perfons scaU <?o 
 were tumbled into Tyler . * D d 4 Going monia. 
 
5 6 €% duovagc Of ITALY. Part II. 
 
 St. Alexi- Going up this hill I went to St. Alexius his 
 ^Church Church, where ! faw the wooden Stairs , under 
 ^ * which this Saint lodged for feventeen years in 
 his own Fathers Houfe ( after fifteen years al> 
 fence) without being k;.own to any Body, till 
 after his death. The body of this Saint lies under 
 the high Altar , together with that of St. Bom- 
 facias the Martyr. 
 
 Jt.Sabinas Hard, by upon the fame hill , (lands St. Sabi- 
 chunk. ms Church , whither the Pope comes upon Afh- 
 wednefday in a Solemn Cavalcata, accompanied 
 with the Cardinals. 
 
 The Armi- Here a if 0 U p 0n t hi s hill , flood anciently the 
 Uj mm. G f Liberty and the Romans Armilujirium. 
 
 Defcending from? hence, I made towards* St. 
 M Pauls Gate 5 and in the way I faw on my right 
 filcius. C ' Hand the hill called Mons Teftacius , which was 
 made of the broken Pots thrown there in the 
 Romans time by the Potters . Its half a Mile a- 
 bout, and \6o foot high. 
 
 A little nearer the Gate of St. Paul , I faw the 
 , Tomb of Cam CejUus , built like a Fir amid of 
 Tc Tmb JEgypt^ and all of pure white Marble. This is 
 the’ mod entire work of all the antient Roman 
 works. This Ceftios (as the words upon his Tomb 
 import) was feptemvir epulonm , that is, one of 
 Epuhnes . thole (even Men called Epulones anciently , be- 
 caufe they had the devouring of' thole Banquet, 
 which were fet before the Gods in their Leclifter- 
 in the Temp’e of Jupiter Capitolinus. 
 TheGiteof Paffing thence through the Gate of St. Paul, 
 st. Paul. anc i e ntly called Porta Per gemma ; and Porta Ofti- 
 enfis j I went to St. Pauls Church, a little Mile 
 A from the Town. In the way I took notice of a 
 
 little 
 
 of C. Ce- 
 lsius. 
 
Part il mo^age of italy. 57 
 
 little Chappel on the Left hand, where St. Peter 
 and St. Paul took leave of one another, before 
 they were led to Martyrdom . 
 
 Soon after I came to S. Paul’s Church , hereS. Pauls 
 Paul was buried by Lucina a Roman Lady , and Cburc ^ 
 therefore Conftantin the Great built this Church 
 in the honour of S. 7 W, as he had done that of S. 
 
 Peter mentioned above. Its built crofs-wife, and 
 the body of it is 477 foot long, and 2 58 broad 5 
 with a hundred pillars in all, fet in four ranks; all 
 of them ancient round marble pillars taken out of 
 the Baths of Attonius , faith Vaffari. Yet in all this In . * ro * m 
 vaftbody of the Church there are no Chappel s, mo ' 
 nor any decoration, except at the very end of it, 
 near the great door, where there is an Altar with 
 thefe words in done over it,ffe inventm eft caput 
 S.Vauli.The mod remarkable things which I law 
 here, were thefe. 
 
 1. The high Altar , with a canopy of done 
 like a Tabernacle , born up by four porphyry pil- 
 lars, and adorned with (lames. Under tKe Altar 
 repofeth half of the bodies of SX>eter and SiPaul 
 fas I obferved before in S, Veters Church) and as 
 the Infcriptien upon the fide of the Altar here af- 
 firms in thefe words; Sub hoc altari requieftcunt 
 gloriof a corpora Apoftolorum Vetri isr Vauli pro me- 
 diet ate. Behind this Altarfiznds the Confdfionof 
 S.P aul like that of S.P eter deferibed above.Under 
 the little low ‘doors which let the Pried into the 
 fieps of the Altar are written thefe words in gol- 
 den Letters, Limina Apoftolorum , which makes Zimina A- 
 mebold to hold againd feme modern Writers , yofiolorum. 
 that this was the precife place , and not the door 
 of the Church, which was called Limina Apofto- 
 lorum. 2. In 
 
58 
 
 The mira- 
 cnlousCru- 
 cifix. 
 
 Baron . 
 
 Baron, ad 
 Maxirol. 
 tigm. 20 . 
 Mxttiu 
 
 ©O^age Of ITALY. Part II. 
 
 а. In the old Arch in the top of the roof,is yet 
 feenapiece of Mofaic Workreprcfenting our Sa- 
 viour in the midft of the four and twenty Elders 
 of the Apocalypse. This piece was made there 
 twelve hundred years ag :> in the time of S.Leo the 
 great ; and at the coft of P lacidia Galla (daugh- 
 ter of Tbeodojius^nd After of Honoring as the two 
 Verfes in that Arch teftify thus : 
 
 PlacidL* J>ia mens opens decus own* reportat , 
 Gaudet Pontificis ftudio fplendere Leonis. 
 
 3. The famous Miraculous Crucifix (handing 
 in a Chappel on the Epiftle fide of the High Altar) 
 which fpoke to S.Bridgit. This Crucifix favours 
 the opinion of thole who affirm that there were 
 two nails in our Saviours feet. 
 
 4. The neat Chappel and Tabernacle of the B. 
 Sacrament ; with the rare pictures relating there- 
 unto, made by Cavalier Lanfranco. 
 
 5. The pifture of the Altar of S. Steven made 
 by a Lady of Bologna called Lavinia Foma - 
 na: 
 
 б . The chief Relics kept here are, the Head 
 of the Samaritan woman converted by our Sa- 
 viour : The Arm .of S. Anne mother of our 
 blefied LADY; and the Chain of Saint 
 Paul 
 
 From S.PauPs Church I went to the Tre Ton- 
 tane above a mile and a half off, and in the way, 
 I palled over the place whereS.2^,and ten thou- 
 fand Chriftians were martyred at once by the com- 
 mand of D ioclefian the butcher. Their blood 
 made this wav holy all along. 
 
 Arriving 
 
Part ii. c$e ©towage of italy. 59 
 
 Arriving at the Tre Fortune I faw there three TreFonta - 
 Churches {landing within a place antiently called, nu 
 ad Aquas Salvias. The firftof thefe three Chur- The church 
 chesisthat of S Vincent and Anaftaje, becaufe of of st. 
 their Relics fent hither. For about the year 627. Vincent and 
 the Emperor Heraclius fentthe Head of S. Ana - Ana * a f e ' 
 ftafius with the pi&ure of the fame Saint unto Pope Baronin* 
 Honorius the Firft. A courteous Father, of S. Ber~ An. 627. 
 nards Order here, did me the favour to {hew me 
 near the high Altar , this Head, and this Pifhire. 
 
 Thefe two are moft authentical things, for the 
 atteftation of them is in the very Afts of the fe- 
 cond Council of Nice held an. 789,where to prove 
 the lawfulnels of facred Images againft the Icorn- 
 clafts , the facred Council cites a miracle wrought Baron. 
 by this very pifture of S. Anajlafm : and Ba- An * 62 7 * 
 ronius quotes divers others wrought by the fame * n x d 
 pi&ure. * 7 
 
 In thefecond Church here, to wit the little Thg roun j 
 round Church on the right hand , there is a fa- church. 
 mous picture of S. Bernards Extafis. Under 
 this Church I was led into a Vault where many 
 of the Bodies of the forefaid tenthoufand Chri- 
 ftians, who were martyred with S. Zeno , are 
 buryed. This Vault goes a mile under ground. 
 
 In the third place ftands the little Church o{ TreFom ~ 
 the TreFontane^ fo called becaufe 5 . Paul , was ne ' 
 here beheaded, and where his head jumpt thrice 
 three fountains gullied out. Upon an Altar on 
 the left hand, is an excellent pidure of 5. Peters 
 crucifixion, of the hand of Guido Kbeni . On the 
 other fide is feen a little block ( within an iron 
 grate ) upon which they fay 5 . Pauls head was 
 cut off. Going 
 
6o 
 
 The An- 
 minciata. 
 
 S, Sebafli' 
 ansChurch • 
 
 The Cata- 
 combs* 
 
 Cxmeteri- 
 um calixti. 
 
 Qfyt ©opge OflTALY. Part II # 
 
 Going from hence, I went over the Fields to 
 the Church of the Annunciate one of the nine 
 Churches of Rome, vifited by Pilgrims 3 and 
 from thence to S. Sebaflians. 
 
 St. Sebaflians Church is one of the feven 
 Churches, and of great Devotion by reafon of 
 the Catacombes which are under it. Here I faw the 
 Tomb of St .Sebaflian under an- Altar on the Left 
 hand: many relicks kept over an altar on the right 
 hand, and the Vault underneath where Pope 
 Steven was beheaded in his own Seat of Stone, 
 and where St. Peters and St. Pauls Bodies were 
 hidden many years. 
 
 Thence I was let into the Catacombes , which 
 are under this Church, and which from thence 
 running many Miles under ground, made anti- 
 ently a Cliriftian Rome under the Heathen.There 
 were divers of thefe Catacombes in the primitive 
 times, and they were called diverfly : Arenaria, , 
 Crypt*, Are*, Concilia Mavtyrum , Poliandria 3 
 but mod frequently C*meteria , that is, Dorme- 
 toria, beoaufe here repofed the Bodies of the ho- 
 ly. Martyrs and Saints, qui obdormiverunt in Do- 
 mi no. But thegreateft of all thefe C*meteria was 
 this of Calixtm . In thefe Catacombes' during the 
 Perfections raifed againft the Chriftians by ten 
 Heathen Emperors, the faithful Believers, to- 
 gether with their Popes and Paftors, ufed private- 
 ly to meet to exercife their Religion,^ and fteai 
 their Devotions 3 that is, to hear Mals in little 
 round Chappels painted over head poorly 3 Mi- 
 nifter the Sacraments 3 bury the dead Martyrs 
 and ConfefTors in the Walls of the long Alleys, 
 Preach, hold Conferences 3 and even celebrate 
 
 Councils 
 
Part II. Gtye wage OUT ALY. 61 
 
 Councils too lometimes. I defcended feveral 
 times into feveral parts of thefe Catacombes with 
 a good experienced guide (which you muft be 
 lure of ) and witii wax Lights (Torches being 
 too hiding) and wandered in them up and down 
 with extraordinary Satisfaftion of mind. The 
 Streets under ground are cut out with Mens hands 
 and Mattocks.They are as high as a Man for the 
 moft part, and no broader than for two Men to 
 meet. All the way along, thelides of thefe Al- 
 leys are full of holes as long as a Man, and fome- 
 times there are three rows one over another, in 
 which they had buried their Martyrs and Confef- 
 fors, and that Pofterity might afterwards know 
 which which were Martyrs, which Confeflors, 
 they engraved upon the Stone which mur’d 
 them up, or upon one of the Bricks, a Palm 
 Branch, infignof a Martyr; and a Pro Cbrifto in 
 Cyphers for a Conteflor, it’s recorded, that du- 
 ring the forefaid Perfections, a hundred and 
 Seventy four Thoufand Martyrs were buried here 
 in this Cdemetary of Cdixtus : among whom were 
 nineteen Popes Martyrs. Hence thefe Catacombs 
 have always been efteem’d as a place of great De- 
 votion, and much frequented by devout perfons: 
 
 The words over the door, as you defeend into 
 them from the Church of Sz.Sebaftia^ tell you, 
 how St. Hirome confeffeth, that he ufed every 
 Sunday and Holydav, during his hay in Rome, Su 
 to go to thefe Cutacombes^ and a Pi&ure hung over rom in e- 
 the fame door fheweth how St. Philip Neri ufed zechiel 
 to frequent thefe holy places in the Night ; and c * 404 
 from whence I believe he fucked that true Spirit 
 of the primitive Church, which reigned in him, 
 
 ana 
 
62 ©Wge Of ITALY, Part II. 
 
 ' and (till reignech in the breads of his mod ver- i 
 mous children, the pious Priefts of the Oratory of 
 - Rom. whom I mu ft always praife wherefoever I 
 find them, becaufe I always find them cither wri- 
 ting holv things or living them ; that is , cither 
 writing Books fit to be lived, or living lives fit to 
 be written. Indeed its incredible how much the 
 prefence of thefe holy Martyrs bodies hath fan- 
 dtifyed this place: in fo much that no man enters 
 into the catacombes but he comes better out, than : 
 he went in. Catholics come out far more willing - 
 to dye for that faith, for which fo many of their 
 anceftors have dyed before them. The Adverfa- 
 riesof the Rowan Church come out more (dag- 
 gered in their faith, and more mild towards the 
 Catholic Religion, to fee what piety there is even 
 in the bowels of Rome ; Atheijls come out with 
 that belief, that furely there is a God, feeing fo ma- 
 ny thoufands of Martyrs have teftifyed it with 
 their blood. 
 
 C di From S'Sebajlians I went to the place hard by 
 
 $ 0 y e 1 called Cap di Bow (landing upon the Via Apfia. 
 
 It is a great building faced about with marble 
 (tones. It was the Sepulcher of Metella wife of rich 
 Cral fe.Its now called Cap di Bove becaufe of the 
 ox heads cut in marble which compofe the cor- 
 nice that runs about the top of this Moles. Enter- 
 ing into it you will wonder at the thicknefsof the 
 walls which are above eight ells thick. It was be- 
 gun to be pulled down, especially the great marble 
 (tones on the ouefideof it, to make up the Fonta- 
 na di T revi j but Cardinal Barberino would not 
 fufferittobe fo defaced. 
 
 rhe Preto - Glofe by (land the ruins of the Pretorium , the 
 
 * Quarters 
 
Part II. motagC Of ITALY. 63 
 
 Quarters of the Pretoria?! Bands, which the Em- 
 perors lodged here, a little out of the throng of 
 the town, that they might not occafion fo eafily 
 tumults ; and that they might exercife themfelves 
 often in the Circo of Car ac alia which was hard by. 
 
 This Circus was made by theEmperor Caracalla, Camilla* 
 and is the moll entire of all the Circos that were 
 . in Rom You fee where the Careeres , or flatting 
 place was, where the Meta ; where the Guglia 
 were. You fee how long it was, and the walls yet 
 fliow you what compals it carryed. In the midft 
 of it flood that Guglia which now flands in the 
 midft of Piazza Navona - 1 few it lye here broken 
 in three pieces, and negle&ed quite till the Earl 
 of Arundel our late Lord Marjhaly offering to 
 buy it , and having already depofited threefcorc 
 crowns in earneft for it, made the R mans begin 
 to think that it was fome fine thing, and flop the 
 tranfporting of it into England . At lafl it light 
 upon a good ftone-fetter who joyned it fo well 
 together, that it now flands ftreight upon a rare 
 hafts ^ and adorns the very heart of R me: Thanks 
 to that ingenious architect Cavalier Bernini ,who 
 let it up there in the anno fantto, and whom it fet 
 up too again in the Popes favour Innocent theX. 
 which he had loft, by a crack in the roof of the 
 Porch of S. Peters Church, caufedbv the heavy rfoTem- 
 fteeple which he had placed upon it. pleofrer- 
 
 Near the end of the Grew of Caracalla , flands tueand 
 an old round Temple, with another little Ante- ” onour - 
 Temple, clofe joyned to it ; and out of which you 
 go into the other. What if this were the Tem- 
 ple of Honour ? into which there was no paffage , 
 but through the Temple of Vcrtue, which was 
 
 joined 
 
64 Moya ge Of ITALY. Part II. 
 
 joyned clofe to it, as this is: to manifefl, that 
 Vertue is the way to Honour. Now it’s certain 
 that thefe two T empks flood not far from the Por- 
 ta Car fern (now called 5 . Sebaflians gatc)as thcfc 
 two do. But I declare, that this is but gueffing. *. 
 
 Hard by the forefaid old Temple there is an 
 Eccho which heretofore(as they fay) would repeat 
 The Eccho. a ^ cer y ou a whole Verfe of Virgil ^ but if fo, it 
 was my fortune to find her when {he had Catch- 
 edacola ; for I could get nothing from her but 
 the two laft Words of a Sentence. Indeed Aufoni- 
 us calls the Eccho^ the tail of Words 5 and Sympo^ i 
 frn faith, that the Eccho is like a modcft Vir- 
 which fpeaks nothing but when fhe is asked. 
 
 Returning from S.Sebaftians towards the town 
 again , I palled by alitde Ghappel called fiomine 
 quo uadis ? and antiently called, SanSa Maria ad ■ 
 Domine pa/fus , Its called D amine quo uadis ? becaufe our 
 quovadis? Saviour appearing here to S: Peter , flying out of 
 ' thePrifonof R om, was asked by Peter y Domine 
 
 qm uadis? Lord whether go you ? And hean- 
 ivvered: Vado Komam ut ibi iterum crucifigar , I 
 am going to Kome , thereto be crucifyed again 5 
 which Words Veter underflanding rightly , of 
 Chrifts fuffering in his members the faithful be- 
 lievers, returned again to Kome , and was foon 
 after crucifyed. In the middle of this Chappel 
 are feen the Prints of our Saviours feet in a white 
 marble ftone with an iron grate over them. 
 
 s.Nerm Entring into the town by S. Sebaflians gate, I 
 aniAcbik- went on (freight to the Church of S.Nereus and 
 Achilleus \ of which Church Baronins was Car- 
 dinal The bodies of thefe Saints are under the 
 
 High 
 
Part If. €^E5U0^.gC0f ITALY. 6 % 
 
 High Altar* Cardinal Bar ora us cauled this Church 
 to be painted with the hi Irenes of Saints anaMar- 
 tvrs, to excite others to devotion by their exam- 
 pies. 
 
 Almoft over againft this Church , ftafrds the c m 
 Church of S.Sifto with its monaftery made fa- 
 mous by SDminic*, who made it his habitation , 
 and by whom God wrought many Miracles here. 
 
 It hands in a moft unwholefom place called anti- 
 ently the Piscina pMica, becaule the people ufe 
 to wafh themfelves here. Here are buried S-Sixt/s, 
 
 Anther us j Lucius ^Lucianus^ Sotherus^iy Zefhennus^ 
 
 Popes and Martyrs. 
 
 Here’s a fine pidture of St. Vincentm Ferre - 
 rius* 
 
 From thence I went towards the Porta Lat. : na , \ . 
 
 ■ and there law the Church 5 where St. Hvan- 
 I gelift was put into a caldron of boyling oyl. um L&i* 
 
 Then following the walls of the town for a mm* 
 
 \ good while j I came at laft toS. John Later ms st. fofm. 
 Church 3 the Mother Church of all Churches uxsram 
 in the World, and the Popes Cathedral. In fay - church* 
 ing this I have laid enough 5 and I fay this after 
 thewordi which are written in the architrave o- a ra * 
 ‘ ver the Porch of this Church, and after the Bull 
 1 of Gregory the XL who declared this Church to 
 1 be the Popes chief feat, and to have the prehemi- 
 ; nency over the other Churches, Orbis iy Vrbis ; 
 even over S. Peter's Church too by name. It was 
 I built by Constantine the Great upon mount Ccellus, 
 and dedicated to our Saviour himfelf, for whofe 
 ; fake it deferveth the headfhip over ail the other 
 Churches in the world, as he, to whom it is dedi* 
 cated , is the head of all theEledf. Yet it is cal- 
 F. e led 
 
66 motm Of ITALY. Part II 
 
 led diverfly by Eecleiiaftical Authors. Sometimes 
 Bafilica Conjiantiniana* hcczuk Conftantin built it; 
 fometimes Bafilica Salvator is, becaufc it was dedi- 
 cated to our Saviour. Sometimes Bafilica St. Jo- 
 anniys , becaufe it was near to the two Chappels 
 dedicated to the two St. Johns fm the Baptiftery of 
 Conftantimfomctimcs it was called Bafilica St.Joan- 
 nis in Later ano^ or St John Later am Church ,becaufe 
 is was built upon the place.where Plautiws Later a- 
 nm+ the defign’d Confnl, had a fair Houfe and a 
 Garden, which Nero the Tyrant made bold with- 
 al 5 having farft made bold with their Mafter, by 
 Tacitus and killing him. Now this and the other great Chur- 
 Juvenal, chesof Rome arc called Bafilica , either becaufe 
 fat. io. they are built after a Royal and ftately manner , 
 or elfe becaufe they are built to the King of 
 Kings. 
 
 As for this Church of S John Later an. It is here 
 that the Popetaketh pofieffion of his Papal charge 
 after he hath been chofen and confecrated Bifhop 
 (if he were none before ) in S. Peters Church. For 
 this reafon all the chief Bfifcopal functions of the 
 particular Diocefe of Rome y are performed here ; 
 astheconfecratingof Bifhcps and Priefts^ the con- 
 ferring of the Sacrament of Confirmation ; the 
 Baptizing of converted Jem and Infidels. For this 
 reafon its looked upon by the Popes with great 
 refpeft, and hath been not only beautifyed by 
 them withccftly decorations , fuch as thole, that 
 Clement the VIII, and Innocent the X. made ; 
 but alfo favoured by them with great Preroga- 
 tives; one declaring by his Papal Decree, that 
 this is the Mother Church of all Churches ; ano- 
 ther fixing her very Altar it felf (of wood) on 
 
 which 
 
Part II. dlO^0e Of ITALY. 67 
 
 which Sc. Peter and the primitive Popes had of- 
 fered Sacrifice 5 another allowing the Clergy of 
 this Church the Precedency over the Clergy of 
 all other Churches in pubiick procellions, and to 
 carry before them two Crucifixes • another fix- 
 ing here the Heads of St. Peter and St Paul 
 
 As for the things mod to be taken notice of 
 here, they are thefe. 
 
 1. The Soffeta or roof of this Church mod 
 richly guilt. 
 
 i.Thebody of the Church all made newalmoft 
 by Pope Innocent the X, as to the infide of it. 
 
 3. The rare painting that runs crofs the Church 
 from the ftately Organs to the Altar of the B. 
 Sacrament, containing the chief aftions of Con- 
 ftantine the Great, and other Hiftories. That of 
 the Afcenfion of our Saviour, with theApoftles 
 looking up after him , is of the hand of Cavalier 
 Giofoppe. The Hiftories and Figures about the 
 Chariot of Conftantin ^ are of the hand of Bellar - 
 dim. That of the apparition of our Saviour,thac 
 of Mount Soracle , that over againft Conflantins 
 Baptifm, are all of the hand ot Paris Romano. 
 
 That of theBaptifmof Conflantin is of the hand 
 of Cavalier Ricelli. In the Quire of the Canons 
 the pi£ture of S.John is of the hand of Cavalier 
 Giofeppe. In fine, the pi&ureof our Saviour in 
 the very Tribum^ or Abfide^ wasthefirft picture 
 that appeared publicly in .Raw, and which was 
 miraculoufly conferved in the burning of this 
 Church. There are divers other pictures in that 
 vaulted 'tribune in Mofaic Work 5 and fome fym- 
 bolical figures relating to our SavioursLife and 
 E e a Paflion ? 
 
68 dotage Of ITALY. Part IL \ 
 
 Pallion, which were much ufed anciently in 
 Churches, as you may fee in many other Chur- 
 ches , and in the rare Book call edJLoma So terra- 
 nea. 
 
 4. The High Altar here, within which is fhut 
 up the Wooden Altar, which S SPeter and the pri- 
 mitive Popes made ufe ol in faying Mafs upon j 
 it , during the Perfecuticns , and before they had 
 any lctlcd Churches. S< Sihefter in the dedicati- 
 on of this Church, fixed it here, and none can 
 lay Mals at this Altar, but the Pope, or during 
 the Popes indifpolition, feme Cardinal, with a 
 particular difpenfarion, or Apoftolical Brief which 
 rnuft be faftned to one of the four Pillars of the 
 Altar, during the Cardinals faying Mafs therc.O- 
 ver this Altar hands a great Tabernacle of Mar- 
 ble born up by four PilIars,not only ferving for a 
 Canopy to the Altar, but alfo for an Area to the 
 
 The Heads Heads of S. Peter and S. Paul , which are kept 
 
 tt/and'st w * c ^ n lt ? an ^ fbown there to the people upon 
 f * great days through an Iron grate which environs 
 them. 
 
 5. The Altar of the B. Sacrament adorned by ] 
 the coft of Clement the VIII, with a curious and 
 pretious Tabernacle of rich polilhed hones, and 
 with four pillars of brafs guilt, about fifteen foot 
 high. Over this Altar is the Table it felf upon 
 which our Saviour eat the Pafchal Lamb before 
 hispaliion, and then prefentiy inftituted the Ho- 
 ly Sacrament, of which the Pafchal Lamb was but 
 
 a figure. 
 
 6 . The brafen Tomb of Martin the V, of 
 the houfe of Colonna , who waschofen Pope in the 
 Council of Conflance. 
 
 P The 
 
Part ii. <E$e tao^age of italy. 69 
 
 7. The Tomb of Aexanler the lit, of the 
 houfe of BandinelU in Siena ^ neatly adorned by 
 Pope Alexander the VII, who took his name of 
 Alexander from him. 
 
 8. TheTombof Lawentins Valla a learned Ro- 
 man , and Canm of this Chnrch , of whom , as 
 the reftorer of pure Latine language after Goticl^ 
 Barbaroujnefs, Latonim fung thus : 
 
 Romulus eft Vrbis, Valla eftidiomatis author : J P ud f°- 
 
 vimu inE- 
 
 Hic reparat primus , primus ut ille ftruit- v f r0 r B 
 
 9. In old GoticJ^ Letters upon the Architrave 
 of the porch of this Church you read thefe Leo- 
 nine verfes, 
 
 Vogmate Papali datur ac fmul Imperially 
 Quod fm CunHarum Mater I? Caput Ec cleft arum. 
 
 10. In the Cloifter of this Church, Ifaw the 
 Chair of P orphyry, which ufeth to be placed near 
 to the great door of the Church on that day the 
 Pope taketh pofleffion of his charge in this 
 Church;in which chair the Pope is placed a while, 
 and at his rifing from it again, the Quire lings this 
 verfeof the 112 Pfalm, Sufcitat de pulvere egenum 
 icy de ftercore ere git pauperem * and this Ceremopy 
 and pierced Chair are only to put the Pope in 
 mind of his human infirmities, amidfl: His glo~ 
 
 rions exaltations^ and the peoples applau'es. For Cxremti 
 fo alfo the Greek Emperors on the day of their ^ 
 Coronation, had a great many marble ftones, of ^* 2 ^* 
 feveral colours , prefented to them, to chafe ' ’ * 
 
 - E e 3 which 
 
70 socage Of ITALY. Partll. 
 
 2enar and which of them they would make their Tomb 
 Cedren. 0 £ 7 ’his was, to put them in mind of their mor- 
 
 tality amici it thofe great honours. 
 
 But its ftrange to fee how the enemies of the 
 Popes, give out malicioufly , that this Chaii& 
 
 ( whole t,le we fee fo plainly in the very Ceremo- 
 nial of Rome ) was only intended adexplorandum 
 fexum, and to hinder the inconveniency of ano- < 
 ther Pope Joarine, For this reafon I think it not 
 amifs to examine a little this Fable of a fhe Pope, 
 or of a Pope Joanne. 
 
 I am not affraid at all to call this a fable , 
 fpp 0 p e Tq. both for the unlikliiiefs of it in general 5 as alfo 
 ■ a for the fufpefted authority of Its firft broachers ; 
 the contrarieties in the ftory 5 and the little credit 
 given unto it by the learnedeft adverfaries of 
 the Roman Church. Firft, what can be more un- | 
 VnltkeVn likely than that a woman fhould furprife fuch a 
 m efs of this w h e nation as the Italians are, and fo grofly > what 
 fabko more unlikely, than that a woman fhould pafs 
 her youth in thofe fevere ftudies, which are re- 
 quired jn Popes, without being known to have 
 wronged , or difeovered her fex $ and that fhe 
 muftjuft do it, when fhe was in a declining age , 
 at which age Popes ordinarily are chofen? What 
 more unlikely , than that a woman finding her- 
 felf great with child, fhould venture to go fo far a 
 foot in a proceffion > What more unlikely, than 
 that, if there had been fuch a fhe Pope, the Greek 
 Church (which then was at odds with the Romon 
 Church) fhould have palled it over in filence,and 
 not have upbraided her with fuch a difgraceful 
 Paftor, efpecially feeing the Roman Church had 
 Upbraided the Greek Church with having an Eu- 
 
Part ii. €i)t moyaQt of italy. 71 
 
 mch for her chief Patriarch > What in fine more 
 unlikely than that there fliould have been fuch a 
 Ihe Pope fo publickly convinced to have been a 
 woman, and that Anaftajius Bibliothecarius who_ 
 wrote the lives of the Popes fome thirty years 
 after that pretended time , and who muft have 
 lived in her time, fpeaks nothing of any fuch wo- 
 man, or any fuch ftrang accident ? 
 
 Secondly, the firft broachers of this (lory make E * imles 
 it very much fufpefted, feeing Martims Poloms n ° 
 and fome others of the Emperors fa&ion ( then 
 at variance with the Popes ) are the firft that men- 
 tioned this fable : and Platina , who. quotes no Hearfay no 
 higher authors for it, grounds a ftory of this con- conviction • 
 fequence upon no better authoriy than a weak, 
 fi dice , it’s laid. 
 
 Thirdly, the apparent contradictions in the Contra- 
 tale, convince it of falfity : as that this Jone was d ® ion ** 
 an Englilh Woman born in Merits , which all tbtTa ^ a 
 men know to be a Rhenifh town in Germany : and p^lfay. 
 that Ihe had ftudyed at Athens in Greece^ which 
 long before this time had been deftroyed. 
 
 Fourthly , the little credit given to it by the Adverf*- 
 learnedeft adverfaries of the Roman Church, to riesconfefs 
 wit, four prime minifters of France (who take this t0 bs a 
 hiftory for a meer fable) proves fufficientlv that F * hkm 
 its worfe than an old wives tale. For Mr Blondel 
 a French minifter ( whom I knew in Paris above 
 twenty years ago, and a man of that account there, 
 that he was chofen to anfwer the learned Book of 
 Cardinal Per on : this Blondel , I fay, made a Book 
 in French ( Printed at Amfter dam by Bleau Anno 
 1647 in OftavoJ on purpofe to fhew, that this fto- 
 ry of a flie Pope called Joanne was a meer fable. 
 
 E e 4 And 
 
7 2 mo^age Of ITALY. Part II. 
 
 And that we nay not think that Blonde! alone of 
 all ProteftantMinifters,held this for a fable, Mon- 
 fieur Seravuis a great Calvinilt and Counlellor of 
 the Parliament of Paris, in a Letter of his to Sal- 
 mafias , having mentioned to him this Book of 
 Fpiji. ser- Blondel , addeth thefe words : Noli a tern credere 
 rhvii. frimm ant f ohm e noftris Blondelhm it a fenjijfe 3 
 qumvis fort affis nemounquam fortius & frejfws i- 
 jl id f ohm c ale aver t. Fuereenim in eadem j enters 
 tin non inceleNes inter Reformats Theologi 3 iy ad- 
 hue vigent in hacVrbe tnjign s fide dr pet ate viri, 
 chamLr. qm Mdierrnt. ex ore Camera, jeiftm h/Jhriam, 
 vifigo credit am ? fabuhfis defutare. Vidi nuf erf crip 
 tas liter as do'di & vegeti Jenis , tibique & mihi a- 
 mcijjmi, Petri Molin#i , qmbus idtm femfer Jilt \ 
 ejf ? vif urn affirmaba t 
 
 _ .. Penes me fmt liter * Samuelis Bocharti , qmbus 
 fin, tega ^r jmpejje fro cmferto vantim iy jicutum, 
 jsechin, quitqmd ■ -a derm de ea jit froditum . Thus Mon- 
 fieur hercsoim in a private Letter (though hisfon 
 .after his death printed his Letters) to a friend of 
 the fame R.eiig on : And thus you fee, how this 
 table maintained highly a long time by the Ad- 
 verlaries of the Roman Church, • expired at laft 
 ( 'as all lyes do ) and was carried to it’s Grave up- 
 on the fhouldets of four French Minifters ; Blon- 
 de! , Chamer , du Moulin , and Bochart . If I have 
 been a little too long in this digreilion you will 
 pardon me: Wcare all debtors to Truth 3 and 
 all Men ought to be glad to fee themfelves dila- 
 buftd. 
 
 T ’f Going out of rhe little Back-door of this Church 
 
 Conftan- I went to ^ ee Baptiiiery of Confiantine the 
 nne 1 Great, our moil noble Countryman, and the hi ft 
 
 tmpero|j 
 
Part ii. Cije ©otage of italy. 73 
 
 Emperor, -that publickly profeffed Chridianity. 
 
 This Baptidery is bulk round, and in the center 
 of it in a defcent oi four dcps, (lands the very 
 Font, in which the faid Emperor was Baptiz’d by 
 Pope Sylvefter. It’s environed with low rails of 
 Marble, and adorned with ten or twelve great 
 Pillars of Porphiry (the (aired in Rome) which 
 bear up the painted Vault over the Font : fo that 
 People (landing about thele Rails, may fee con- 
 veniently the Baptizing of Jews and Infidels in the 
 Pit below. Upon the Walls of the round Chap- 
 pel are painted in Frefco the med memorable a- 
 dlions oi: Conftantine the Great : as his vifion of 
 the Crofs in the Air, with thefe words above it. 
 
 In hoc figno •vine es : his overcoming the Tyrant 
 Maxentws : his Baptifm here by S. Sikefter , his 
 burning the Libels againd Catholick Bifhops, pre- 
 ferred to him by the Arrians : his killing the 
 wounds of tHofe good Bi diops in the Council of 
 Nice , who had either their fingers cut off, or one 
 Eye put out by the Tyrants. 
 
 On the other fide of St. John Later am Church T ^ e * caJa 
 dands the Sc ala Santa , and the Sancta Sank or urn. Santa ' 
 The Sc ala Santa is called from the Stairs Twenty 
 eight in all, up which our Saviour was led in 
 his Paffion to Hlates fioufe. Upon fome of them 
 you fee the places where the precious Blood of 
 our Saviour had fallen, and for that reafon they 
 are covered with little grates of Brafs, which let 
 in Eyes, but keep of Knees: I fay Knees: for 
 none go up thefe holy Stairs otherwise than Kneel- 
 ing, and this out of Reverence to him who often 
 fell upon his Knees as he was drag" d up and down 
 thefe Stairs. It ? s painful enough to go up thefe 
 Stairs upon your Knees $ yeti faw it done hour- 
 
 l 7 
 
74 tKOPge Of ITALY. Part II. 
 
 ly in the Jubily-year. by continual flocks of de- 
 vout People , botn Men and Women ; of 
 great condition as well as of great Devotion.Thefe 
 holy Stairs were fent from Hieruftalem to Constan- 
 tine the Great, by his Mother Queen Helen , to- 
 gether with many other relics kept in St. John 
 Laterans Church. They are of white Marble, 
 and above fix Foot long. 
 
 At the head of thefe Stairs (lands the Chappel 
 The Santta ca ]i cc j SanBa Sanctorum^ becaufe of the holy 
 an orum . t j 1 j n g S j C q )C ; n j t# Hence over the Altar in this 
 Chappel, are written thefe words. 
 
 Non eft in toto Sanctior Orbe Loom* 
 
 Upon the Altar is kept the miraculous Picture 
 of our Saviour, it reprefents him about thirteen 
 years old, and only his half Body. Its about 
 . a Foot and a half long, and its faid to have been 
 SetVanm- b e g un by S. Luh^ but ended miraculoufly by an 
 Angel others fays that St. Luke having only pre- 
 pared the ground, and before he had drawn one 
 ftroke, fell to his Prayers to beg of God that he 
 might draw his Son right, and rifing up again I 
 he found his Picture already finiftied. Hence 
 Domenico Magri (a learned Antiquary) is of opi- 
 nion, that this Pifture of our Saviour is that very 
 lib Della Picture which Anaftafius Bibliothecarm in the life 
 Nottiade of Stephen the II, calls Achyrop<?ta, that is, made 
 Focaboli without hands. Roundabout this Picture goes 
 fun vLbo a ^ et S reat J ewe ^ s 3 enriching the frame of it. 
 Achyropxu Under the Altar repofeth the Body of St. Ana- 
 ftatim , of whofe head and Picture I fpoke above 
 in the Defcription of the Church of this Saint at 
 the TreFontane. Here are alfo kept the Heads 
 of St. Agne$) and St. Praxedes y with many other 
 
 precious 
 
Part II. dje motagr of ITALY. 75 
 
 precious Relics. Antiently , ( as the Records 
 here mention ) the Holy Prepuce, or fore-skin of 
 our Saviour was kept here too: but being taken 
 away in the Sack of Rome, by one of Bourbons CaJcata * 
 Soldiers, it was left in a Country Town called 
 Calcata , feme fifteen Miles diflant from Rowe, 
 by the fame Soldier who could not reft day nor Menochio 
 night, as long as he had that relick about him. I centuriau 
 once pafled by that Town Calcata by chance, and 6 * I0 - 
 by the civilities of the Lord of theTown, Count 
 of AnguiUara , at whole houfe we were nobly 
 entertain’d all night, had the happinels the next 
 Morning, to fee this precious Relic through the 
 chryftal Cafe, this Count keeps one Key of lt.and 
 the Pari Ih Prieft the ether, without both which 
 it cannot be feen. 
 
 Near to the Sc ah Santa is feen a famous piece Triclinium 
 of Antiquity of Chriftian Rowe, called Triclini - Leonu. 
 tmLeonis : where is feen a Mofaic pidhire of our 
 Saviour refulciated, and holding out a Book to 
 his Difciples, in which are written thefe words. 
 
 Pax 'vobis , Peace be to you ; which Pidfure Leo 
 caufed to be made eight hundred years ago, as an 
 Enblem of his peaceable return again to his Seat, 
 after he had been chafed out by his Enemies. Up- 
 on a Pillar on the Right-hana is painted our Sa- 
 viour ft? ting upon a Throne, and giving with one 
 hand the Keys of the Church to St. Peter , and 
 with the other, the imperial ftandard to Conftan - 
 tine the great. Upon the other Pillar on the left 
 hand, is reprefented in Mofaic work alfo, St. 
 
 Peter fitting in a Chair, and with one hand giving 
 rnto Pope Leo the III, the papal ft ole; and with 
 the other the imperial ftandard unto Charlemagne , 
 
7* 
 
 ©o^age of italy. Part n. 
 
 who had reftored this Pope Leo to his Seat again* 
 From hence palling again by St. John Later ans 
 Church, I faw firft the Pailace of the Pope here, 
 built by the Sextus quintm • then the great Guglta 
 (with Egyptian Hirogliphes figur’d upon it ) which 
 had flood antiently in the Circus Maximus : its a- 
 bove a hundred Foot high, and was brought from 
 Alexandria to Rome^ by Conftantine the great. 
 Laftly in a low Room joining to the Church, 1 
 
 faw the Statue in Bronze of Henry the IV of 
 
 France , let up here by the Canons of St. John 
 Later ans , tor having caufed ten thoufand Crowns 
 a year to be reflor’d to this Church, which was 
 due to it in France. 
 
 mfoi- I looked aifo into the fair Hofpital which flands 
 til of St. hard by the forefaia Church, and fo well fervid 
 John Lite - and tended, that many perfons of quality in their 
 tins. Sicknefs deiire to be transferred hither, that they 
 may be better looked to, than they can be at 
 St. Stef ano home. Talcing the Wall of the old Aquiductoi 
 tytondo. Claudius along with me.' I went to San Stefano 
 Rotondo , (landing upon the Mout CHins too. This 
 Church now belongs to the Seminaries of the Ger- 
 man Colledg. Upon the round Walls are painted 
 curioufly the Martyrdoms of ancient Martyrs^ 
 with the divers Inftruments of the Heathens, 
 wherewith they tormented the poor Chriftians. 
 
 Over againftthis Church (lands the Church of 
 Santa Maria della Navicella , fo called from a lit- 
 tle (lone Ship which (lands before it, being a vow 
 of certain Boatmen. This Church in antient Au- 
 thors is called in Dominica , or in Ciriaca , becaufe 
 of a Holy Woman called Ciriaca , in whofe 
 houfe here St. Lament e deflributed all the Church 
 
 goods 
 
 St. Marix 
 in Navi- 
 celh. 
 
 
 ! 
 
Part il cije mo^age of italy. 77 
 
 Soods he, as Deacon had in his hands* unto 
 c he Poor. 
 
 Hard by ftands the Villa of the Duke Matthei, 
 where I faw the Neat-houfe full of curious Sta - thsi ' 
 tues,and crufted on the outfide with rare antic* glie* 
 
 Among the reft I took particular notice of the 
 heads of Brutus and Portia , Man and Wife in 
 one Stone : the Statues of Cleopatra : of Hercu- 
 les : of three little Boysfleeping and hugging one 
 another: the Head of Cicero rarely well cut: the 
 Statue of Marcus Aurelius , a rare table of preci- 
 ous Stones. In another Houfe here ("looking to- 
 wards San Sifto ) I faw the incomparable Statue of 
 Andromeda , expofed to the Sca-Monfter, its of 
 pure white Marble, and of the Hand of Olivier o. 
 that other there of Apollo fleaing Marfias , is an 
 excellent piece too, and in white Marble : fo is al- 
 fo that of the Satyr plucking a Thom out of his 
 Foot. The curious Alley, Waterworks, Grots, 
 
 Walks, Wetting places, and the intricate Laby- 
 rinth, are all very delightfom. 
 
 Defending from hence I went to the old Am- T ^ e Am „ 
 p hit he a ter r called now the Calif eo, becaufcof. a pbitheater. 
 Coloflean ftatue that flood in it. This is one of 
 the rareft pieces of antiquity in Rome * and though 
 Rome be grown again, by her new pallaces, one 
 of the fineft Cities of Europe , yet her very ruins 
 are finer than her new buildings. And though I 
 am not ignorant how R ome y unce her Ladyfhip 
 governed the world, and was at her greatnefs , 
 hath been fix feveral times ruined, and lacked, 
 by the envy and avarice of BarbarousNations 
 ( Vifegoths , (Vandals , Emits, Oftrogoths , TotilafS°™ e 
 whofet fire on Rome 18 daies together , and the 
 
 Germans 
 
Vefari in 
 prefa « 
 
 78 3U0?ag;e Of ITALY. Part 11. 
 
 Germans under Bourbon) whole malice was fo 
 great againfl: Rome , that of thirty fix Triumphal j 
 Arches once in Rome, there remain but four now 
 vifibly appearing; that of ten Thermo anciently, 
 but two remain any way vifible; that offeven Cir- 
 cos , but one now appears : yet as of fair Ladies , 
 there remain even in their old age, fair refts of 
 comlinefs : fo the very ruines of Rom , which ma- 
 lice could not reach to, nor avarice carry away , 
 are yet fo comely, that they ravifh ftill the be- 
 holders eye with their beauties, and make good 
 the faying of an ancient author, that Roma 
 * K n y* jacens qmque miraculo eft : Rome is a miracle even in 
 
 its mines. But to return to the Colifeo-, its another 
 wonder of the world: and I wonder indeed , how 
 fuch prodigious ftones could either be laid toge- 
 ther in a building, or being laid together, could 
 fall Veftpafian began it; but D mitian finifhed it ; 
 and Martial flattered it as a wonder which out- 
 ftript all the wonders of Egypt and its Pyramids- 
 It was of a prodigious height,as that part of it yet 
 {landing fheweth. The form of it was round with- 
 out,aud oval within and the outfide of it was ador- 
 ned with the three orders, of pillars, great arches 
 below, open galleries above, both to walk in,and 
 to let People into the Amphitheater, and out again 
 without crowding, fo that two hundred thousand 
 people could go in or out, in half an hours time, 
 without crowding. Within, it went up from be- 
 low by fteps of done unto the top, and afforded 
 room enough to all that world of people to fit con- 
 veniently, and fee the combats and {ports that 
 were exhibited in the Arena. Anciently the top 
 of it was fet round with ftatues, and in time of 
 
 great 
 
 OvAnU Ce - 
 fareo cedat 
 Libor Am - 
 pbitbeatro, 
 mum pro 
 cunttit fa- 
 malocpiatur 
 epw» 
 
pint n. of italy. 79 
 
 great heats or rains, it was alloverfpred with great 
 fails. From its roundifh form it got the name of 
 Amphitheater, from feeing on all fides. Under- 
 neath were the caves for the wild beads, out of 
 which they turned them loofe to fight, fometimes 
 againft condemned men * fometimes againft inno- 
 cent Chriffians>Nirfl made the Chriftians be clad in 
 the skins of Beafts* and fo to be expofed to Lyons 
 and Bears. Sometimes alfo Gladiators fought 
 againft Gladiators 5 and one Gladiator againft 
 twenty others : Nay ,the very noble Romans them- 
 felves would now and then fight here pubjickly, 
 either to fhew fport or valour. And all this was 
 done by the politick Romans , to teach men not 
 to be afraid of bloodfhed and death in time of 
 wars, with which they had been fo acquainted 
 in time of peace. 
 
 The old round rubbage of Brick, which is 
 here near the Amphitheater , was anciently a fine Meta su* 
 Fountain called Meta Sudans , fervingfor the ufe dans * 
 of thofe that came to the fports here. It was all 
 faced with Marble , and had a Statue of Jupiter 
 of brafs upon it. 
 
 Hard by ftands the Triumphal. Arch of Con- 
 ftantine the great. Its all of Marble, with a world The Tri . 
 ‘of curious Statues antiently , but now headlefs, umphd 
 and with hiftories in bajji rilieui. It was erefted caftan 
 to him in memory of his Viftory over the Ty- cmetk" 
 rant Maxentiws , as to the freer of the City and Great. 
 Founder of publick quiet. As the words here 
 import, Liber atoriVrbw , Fundatori Quietis. 
 
 From hence I went to the Church of St. John 
 and Paul 5 and thence to St. Gregories Church , 
 which anciently had been his houfe. They fhew St Q 
 us yet the place and the table where this holy r f es rg0 ' 
 
 Man Church. 
 
1 
 
 80 Clje tOOf Oge Of ITALY. Part II. 
 
 man, in recompence of his charitable hofpitallity 
 to the poor, delerved to have an Angel, and the 
 Lord of Angels for his Guefts, he treated daily 
 here twelve p or Men in honour of the twelve 
 Apoftles. In one of the Chappels, you fee a fine 
 Statue of white Marble of S. Gregory in his 
 Pontifical Robes ; it was eroded to his honour by 
 Cardinal Baronim , who was a devout admirer 
 of him. 
 
 In the Garden belonging to the Monaftery of 
 St. Gregory . there is to be lecn a Cave in which I 
 law upon tne wall fome old painting of the high- 
 eft times of Pagan Rom : Pittiful fluff, yet con- 
 fiderable for its ancientnefs. 
 
 Antonm From hence I went to the Baths or Therm #} of 
 
 is Baths . t j ic g m p eror Antoni us Rooking more like a Town, 
 than a bathing place. Indeed Ammiams Marcelh- 
 nus out throws me, and calls thefe, and the other 
 Therm <e in R cme, Larvacra in modtm Pro vine ia- 
 rum exftruPa : Bathing places built like Provinces- 
 And judg whether of us hath more reafon , by 
 that which we read in the Exceptis Olympiodori , 
 where it’s faid, that thefe baths of Antonm had a 
 thoufand fix hundred feats of polifhed marbleffor 
 as many perforn to fit and bath in apart: nay, 
 fome of thofe bathing places were paved with * | 
 filver, and were adorned fo turioufly with filver 
 pipes for the water, with ftatues, pidures and 
 pretious ftones, that Sense a crycs out ; Eo deheia - 
 rum veniwuS} ut nifigemmas calc are nolumus ; We 
 are come to that delicacy that we fcorn to tread 
 upon any thing but Jewels : Now thefe baths 
 ferve only for the Roman Scminarifts to recreate 
 in. 
 
 Return^ 
 
Part II. C$e mym Of ITALY, 8 1 
 
 Returning from hence between the Mount A- Circm 
 dentin and the mount Palatin^ I law the place Maximus * 
 where the Cin us IVlaxitmsttood. This was the 
 greateft of all the Circus in Rome, as its name 
 thews. It was begun by Tarquinius Vrifcus , but 
 afterwards much augmented by Julius Gtfar and * 
 Auguftus. It was three (lades long, and four acres 
 wide ( theR oman (lade was 625 foot, or 125 pa- 
 ces) at lad it was adorned with (latues and pillars 
 by Trajan and Heliogabulus . A hundred and fifty 
 tftoufand men could fit conveniently in the three 
 open Galleries; one of which was for the Sena- 
 tors , the fecondfor the Gentlemen, and the third 
 for the common People. The two great Obelic k^to 
 wit, that before Porta del PopuIo 3 and that before S. 
 
 John Later am flood in iEUnder this building were 
 many vaultedCaves called in Latin ^For nicety where 
 lewd women proflituted themfel ves for money ,and 
 fo from thefe F rnices came the word Fornication . 
 
 Goingfrom hence to S.Oeorges Church, I law on T j, e 
 my right hand, the goodly ruins of the Emperors rors ? A U 
 Pallace , called Palazzi Magghre. Itpofleffedal-^ 
 mod all the Palatin hill, as the ruins (hew. State- 
 ly ruins I confefs : but ruins, and imperial ruins. 
 
 And here I could not but wonder to lee, the pal- 
 lace of the perfecting Emperors ruined quite,and 
 the Church of the poor Fifherman (landing (fill, 
 more glorious than ever. 
 
 Before I came to S.Oeorges Church, I dept into 
 S. Anaflafius Church , which was antiently the 
 Temple of Neptune $ and from thence to the old 
 fquare Temple, commonly held to be the Tern* 
 pie of Jams Qaadriforis: and with fome reafon, rmptum 
 becaufe it hath four doors in it, and twelve Ni- xji 
 
 Ff ches 7 
 
82 mo^age Of ITALY. Part II. 
 
 ches upon every fide of the fquare one fide. The 
 four doors reprefented the four feafons of the 
 year ; the twelve niches, the twelv8 months of the 
 year : yet others will have it t:o have been only an 
 Arch,or Portic,or a Lodg 5 and while they difpute j 
 st.Geor&s it, Pie go on to S. Georges Church , hard by to 
 chunk* which Church is joy tied an old Arch curioufly 
 carved in marble , which was erected here, by the 
 Merchants or Goldfmiths to the Emperors Seve- 
 rn; and M. Aurelius. 
 
 Near unto this Church of S. George came anti- 
 ently the Water of Tyhr % and this water or creek 
 The FeU- t ^ ie River was called Veld rim ; becaule men 
 brum. paffed over the River here by boat , andfome- 
 time with a little fail , when the wind flood 
 fair. 
 
 From hence I went to the round Church of 5 . 
 Forum 'Xheodoro (landing in the Foro Boarii . This was 
 Soartum. anc ; cnt jy t j lc Temple of Romulus and Remus , be- 
 caufe it was here that thofe two brothers were ex- 
 poled, and nouriflied by a flic- wolf, which found 
 them here. 
 
 Not far from hence I dept into the hofpital of 
 our Lady of Confolation. This was once the 
 Temple of Vefla. /hid here it was that the Veftal 
 The Temple Virgins (inlfituted by Numa ) kept the Eternal 
 of Fefla. fire ; theextiiiguifliing of which was held by the 
 fuperflitious heathens, fatal to the ftate^and there- 
 fore they committed, the keeping of this fire to 
 The Fejlal Virghisof great repute and honour. ThefeVir- 
 ‘ gtns ' gins were to be 10 years in learning their profefli- 
 
 See pj u- on 5 10 years more in exercifing it, and other lo 
 tarch in years more in teaching it to others. And for this 
 jsunu. reafon they had great Priviledges given them. For 
 
Part ii. wpage of italy. s 3 
 
 if in going up and down the City 3 they met by 
 chance 3 a criminal man going to be executed 3 they 
 had Power tb free him. If any of thefe Vellals 3 
 forgetting her felf had wronged her virginity 3 they 
 would not 3 out of reverence to her Profeifion, 
 lay violent hands on her by the common Execu- 
 tioner 3 but they buried her alive in a low vault 
 made for the nonce. 
 
 From hence I entred into the Campo Vaccina 3 rhe Cmpo 
 and prefently fell upon three Pillars of admirable race mo. F 
 ftru&ure ; they belonged to the Temple of Ju- The Temple 
 filer Stator built by Romulus 3 the occalion was 
 this 3 Romulus in a battle againft the Sabins feeing stator, 
 his men give back 3 made a vowprelendy to Ju- 
 piter 3 that if he would flop their flight and make 
 them ftand to it 3 he would build him a Temple; 
 Siftefcedam fugam ; faid he to Jupiter ; The men 
 ftood 3 and the Temple was built to Jupiter Stator 
 who made Men ftand. But this Jupiter Stator 
 could not make his own Temple ftand ; for it’s 
 now fo ruin’d^ that Antiquaries are fcarce fure 
 where it flood. 
 
 Clofe to thefe three pillars ftands the Church 
 of Santa Maria Liber atrice at the foot of the Pala- 
 tin hill. Why this Church is fo called both a 
 long writing in the Ghurch 3 and Baronins in his 
 Annals 3 tellat length. 
 
 Near tb this Church flood the Lacm Curtii , a Adan.^. 
 (linking puddle which annoi’d the Romans much UrusCur* 
 and which the Oracle allured was not to be ftopt 
 up but by calling into it the mod precious thing 
 in Rome . Hereupon the Ladies threw in their 
 bell Jewels ; and the Noblemen every one what he 
 had themoft precious 3 but all in vain. At laft 
 F f 2 Curtm 
 
84 
 
 €$e mo^agc of italy. Part 11. 
 
 Curt'rn a brave young Nobleman, thinking that 
 there was nothing more pleafant than a gallant 
 Man ^ • counting on Horfe-back in a brave Equi- 
 page, in fight of all the People, jump’d into this 
 See Tit M- Lake a ^ ve 5 as a Vi£tim devoted to his Coun- 
 v us, and tries Service 5 and the hole hereupon doled. I 
 t tkers . confefs a brave Cavalier is a precious Jewel indeed: 
 and I remember that a Roman Lady having {hew- 
 ed her Jewel s to Cornelia the Mother of the Grac- 
 chi 3 and having defired her to fhew alfo her Jew- 
 els, {he called for her two young Sons ( brave 
 The fineft youths,) and faid 3 here Madam are my Jewels: 
 Jewels, and in my opinion, Curtins was fomewhat Vain- 
 gloriousjto think himfelf to be thebraveft man in 
 ^ the City. If the Votes and Judgment of all the 
 People had declar’d him to be lo ( as they did 
 afterwards declare Scipio Ida fit a to be the befl: 
 Man of all the R omans $ and the Matrons decla- 
 red Sulfitia to be the cha (left Matron of her time ) 
 then he might have devoted himfelf more freely 
 for his Countrys fafety. 
 
 Going on from hence on the Right-hand (Jill, 
 Famefes ] came to the door of Farnefes Garden. This 
 Carden. Garden {lands upon the mount Palatin , where 
 
 antientlv the Emperors had their Pallace, which 
 took up all the upper part of this Hill, but not 
 all the Skirts of it ; for I find that the Goddefs 
 Feaver , and the Goddefs Viriplaca had their 
 Temples here, and Catalin and Cicero their hou- 
 fes. Entring into this Garden I found fome pretty 
 Water-works and grotts at the Entrance, and fine 
 high Walks above, overlooking the place where 
 r j f j-n the Circus Maximus flood antiently. The Schol- 
 rLyarl ? lairs °f the Englifh Colledg in Rom have a piece 
 
8 $ 
 
 Part II. Of ITALY. 
 
 of this hill for their Vine a and recreation place, 
 to breath on upon days of Vacancy. 
 
 Following dill my right hand, I came to the The Arch 
 Arch of Titles : a Triumphal Arch, erefted to of Tit $. 
 him upon his victory over the Jews. Hence you 
 fee here engraven in Mez.z.0 rilieuo the faid Empe- 
 ror in a Triumphal Chariot, and on the other the 
 Holy Candledick of the Temple of Hieruj'alem^ 
 the Ark of the Alliance, and the Tables of the 
 Law, which this Emperor brought with him af- 
 ter his taking of Hierufalem , to grace his Tri- 
 umph. This is the mod antient Triumphal 
 Arch in Rome, and it dood in the Via Sacra which 
 went under it. 
 
 Wheeling about the Campo Vaccino , dill on 
 my right hand, I came to the Church of Santfa TfoCbwrcv 
 Francejca Roman a ^ otherwife called Santa Maria p(. a ^f ca o 
 nuova. Here. I faw the neat Tomb of that Saint R 0m ana. ’ 
 in Brafs guilt, made at the cod of Pope Innocent 
 the X. Here’s alfo cut in white Marble, and 
 danding upon an Altar the Hidoryof the Popes 
 returning again to Rome from Avignon . I faw 
 alfo here a rare Suit of Hangings belonging to 
 this Church, and given by the Sider of Pope In~ 
 mcent the X. 
 
 Hard by dands the Temple of Peace, that r ^ r 
 is, fome remnants of that Temple. It was once 0 j j>eicL ~ 
 the mod noble of all the Temples ( as the pil- 
 lar before St. Mary Majors great Door, which be- 
 longed to this Temple, fheweth ) it was noo Foot 
 large, and 3 °0 long : but now little figns of its 
 Beauty remain : Wars and time defacing the 
 monuments of Peace. It was built by Vefpafian 
 who plac’d in it thefpoiles of the Temple of Hie- 
 rufalem , brought to Rome by Titus. Be- 
 
86 
 
 TheCh'irch 
 of St. Cof- 
 mo and 
 Damiano. 
 
 St. Lorenzo 
 in Mir an- 
 da, 
 
 Mejfia in 
 vita M. 
 Aurelii £5* 
 Sabellic . 
 
 lib. 4. c. 11. 
 
 St. An- 
 driano. 
 
 The Tri- 
 umphal 
 Arch of 
 Severus. 
 
 suotage ef italy. Part 11 
 
 Behind this T emple hands a neat Garden, be 
 longing once to Cardinal Pio^ where I law nea 
 Water-works. Its now fold to another Matter. 
 
 Going on (till in die Camfo V&ccino on the Right 
 hand, I came to the Round Church of St. Gofmo^ 
 and St. Damiano , anciently the Temple of Caftor 
 and Pollux : becaufe the Romans having feen two 
 Men upon fweating Horfes, that rold them news 
 of a Battle won by their Conful, and fo vanifh’d, 
 they imagin’d them to be Caftor and Fo lux, and 
 thereupon decreed them this Temple. The 
 mofaick work in the roof of the Tribune aeferves 
 your particular attention, for the Symbolical Fi- 
 gures fake. 
 
 Going on hill, I came to the Church of St. 
 Lorenzo in Miranda . It was once a Temple de- 
 dicated to Fauftina the Emprefs, by her Husband 
 Antoniws . Poor Man ! he could not make her 
 an honeft "Woman in her Life-time, and yet he 
 would needs make her a Goddefs after her Death. 
 The Porch of this Church is (lately frill, by rea- 
 fon of its great marble Pillars. 
 
 A little further (lands the Church of St.Andri - 
 ano , antiently dedicated to Saturn , who firft 
 taught the Italians to make Money, and there- 
 fore the Romans plac’d their Mrarium Publicum , 
 The publick Treafury in this Temple, and had 
 their Mint hard by it. 
 
 St. Martinas Church follows the next; and in 
 a low Cbappel neatly adorned, I faw her Tomb; 
 here flood antiendy the Temple of Mars the 
 Revenger. 
 
 Before this Church (lands the Triumphal Arch 
 of Septimius Sever us rarely cut with figures in 
 
 marble, 
 
8 
 
 Part II. Cf)C Of ITALY. 
 
 marble in mezjz*o relieuo. .Half of ic is buried un- 
 der ground, the other half is fore battered with 
 the air. Who would think the Air and the Earth 
 to be devouring Elements, as well as the fire and 
 the Water > But why. do I accufe the Air, when 
 it’s only time ( whicli taketh a pride to triumph 
 our Triumphs ) that hath battered this Trium- 
 phal Arch, and moultered even marble > 
 
 A little higher on the Hill-fide (lands the little 
 Church of St. Jofeph , where I faw in the low St -7°f e P • 
 Grot underneath, the Prifon called antiently The ^ 
 Tullianm , into which Prifon St. Peter and St. Paul nm% u lA ~ 
 were fhut up. I defcended into the low Dungeon 
 where St. Peter baptiz’d Proceffm and Martini a - 
 nws^ his two keepers, with divers others. The 
 Fountain of Water that fprungup miraculoufly 
 for that holy fundion is (till feen there in the bot- 
 tom of that Dungeon. 
 
 Many other brave buildings (food anciently in Co ~ 
 this Foro Romano 5 worth remembring as the Co- 
 mitim , orpublick place of Affembly ; fo called 
 a Coe undo 3 it being the great hall of Jnftice, in 
 which was erefted a large Tribunal, where the 
 Praetor ( our Lord chief juftice J fat in an Ivory 
 Chair , called Celia Curulis , and miniftred Ju- 
 (lice to the People. In this Comitium flood the Sta- 
 tue of Horatius Codes ; and in the Corners of it, 
 thofe of Pythagoras and Alcibiades. In this 
 Foro alfo flood the Roftra (a great Pulpit made of 
 the Roflra or brazen fnouts of the Ships won 
 from the Annates) where Orators ufed to Plead, 
 and where Tally Thunder’d. Behind the Roftra 
 flood Romulus his Tomb, and before the Roftra 
 the Tomb of Fauftus , the Fofter) Father of Romu- 
 lus. F f 4 Mount- . ^ 
 

 88 
 
 % 
 
 The Cap:* 
 toL 
 
 Types Tar ■ 
 pda* 
 
 t&Otfage of ITALY. Part II. 
 
 Mounting up from hence to the Capitol by the 
 Coach-wav 5 I law upon the fide of the Hill, the 
 Pillars thrt belong’d once to the Temple of Con- 
 cord built by CmOlus , and not far from hence* 
 three other pillars of neat Fabrick which belong- 
 ed to the Temple of Jupit.rTonans, Thundering 
 Jupiter , built there by Auguptm Ctefar after he 
 had efcaped a Thunder-clap which kill’d his Lit- 
 ter-man dole by him. ! 
 
 Arriving at the Capitol, I was glad to fee that 
 place fo famous in the Roman Story. Its name 
 of Capitol came from the Head of a Man ( Caput 
 in Latin ) found under ground when they nrft 
 laid the Foundation here of the Temple of Jupi- 
 ter CaPitolinus . Jujlus Lypfius , as if he had been 
 the Godfather of that man whofe Head was 
 found here, faith , that his name was Tolus , 
 and that from Caput Toli came Capitoliim . This 
 Head found here portended, that Rome Ihould 
 one day be the head of the World. And this 
 title is fo univerfally known to belong to Rome , 
 that all Authors affirm it, and every petty Arti- 
 fan in Rome will tell you fo: though in talfe Latin, 
 as one did me, when hearing me praife Rome, 
 and thinking that I did it not enough, cried out to 
 me half in Italian, and half in Latin, Cafpitra , 
 Signore , Roma eft cafus mundi ; which laving 
 made me both fmile and fay to my felf, that fuch 
 a Head as this Fellows, found now under ground, 
 would portend the ruin of the Latin Tongue. 
 
 I went firftto the highefi: part of that Hill,cal- 
 led antiently Rupes Tarpeialt looks down upon the 
 Theater of Marcellus , and is nothing lb high 
 a Hill as I conceiv’d when I firft read Livy . For 
 
 I 
 
Part II. mtm Of ITALY. 89 
 
 I expe&ed to have found toe a Hill at leaft like 
 that in India called Dor /#, which Curtius dcfcribes, 
 
 Munfter paints out , and Hercules could not take* 
 but coming to it , I found it to be a hill of that 
 cafy afcent, that I had riden up higher in Sa*vjy> 
 and Smjferland. 
 
 2. Then returning the fame way again to the The Equi- 
 Piazza of the Capitol, I faw there the famous ftw Mu* 
 'Equeftris Statu a of Manus Aurelim l once guilt °f M * TcUS 
 over, but now appearing to be plain Brafs. This AureItu9m 
 is the nobleft Statue in die World ; and I was 
 going to fay, the nobleft Statue Living ; for it 
 ieems almoft to Live and Breath by the Work- 
 man’s An : It is noble alfo becaufe it reprefents 
 a Man fo Noble as Marcus Aurelius , who was a 
 double Emperor, being both a great Emperor, 
 and a great Philofopher. 
 
 Hard by this Egueftris Statue arefeen two Colof- 
 fean Statues, pawring out two Rivers, the one re- 
 prefenring Nzfe, the other Tygri*. Over them 
 ftatids a Statue of Home fomething like Pallas, her 
 Face is of white Marble, her Garments of Por- 
 phyry. 
 
 ‘3. I faw the Trof&tes of Marius cut anciently rk Tro- 
 in Stone in honour of that great General, who phies of 
 from a common Soldier came by his Warlike Marius > 
 
 V ertue, to be feven times Conful. 
 
 4. I viewed the two great Statues of Conftantin 
 the Great in white Marble, with the Horfes. 
 
 5. I faw the MtlUarum, that .is, a little pillar The MH- 
 of Stone, with a great round Brazen Ball upon it . lmum - 
 This Pillar flood anciently in the Foro Komano 
 before St. Adrians Church, and it was erefred by 
 Augustus Ccejar. It was called Milliamw y becaufe 
 
 from 
 
, ■ ? 
 
 SO SWOpge Of ITALY. Part II. | 
 
 from it the Romans counted the Miles that were 
 from Kome to every great City of Italy* or of 
 the Empire, and the firft Mile diftant from this Pil- 
 lar,was called primus ab orbeLapis^ and fo of the reft. 
 
 6 . Then entring into the Confervatorio ; that 
 The confer- ' 1S Palace of the Confervatori , or Sena- 
 vawic. tors 5 I faw there the Statues of Jultm Ctfar 
 
 and Aaguflws Ceefar. Then in the little Court 
 I faw marked up upon the out-wall in a Marble 
 Stone, the Koman meafures, as their C anna. 
 Palms See. (as we have all meafur’d by the Ell, 
 and Yard , ) that all Merchants may know 
 where to find whether his Meafurebe Lawful and 
 Juft, or no. Then the Foot, Hand, Thighs 
 and Head, in Marble fcattered here and there 
 in this Court, yet all looking as if they had be- 
 longed to the great Colojfus of Apollo , made by 
 the command of Lucnllm. T hen the rare Statue 
 of a Lyon tearing a Horfe. The Tomb of 
 Marne a and Alexander Sever us her Son, with the 
 Rape of the Sabines upon it in a Bajfo relieuo. 
 The little Egyptian Idol fet high up over this 
 Tomb. The head of the Emperor Gommodus 
 in Brafs, with a hand of the fame. 
 
 7. Hard by the Stairfootas you mount up to 
 Colonna the Chambers, ftands the C olonna R oftrata, a 
 Kgftrm. marble Pillar fome twelve foot high, decked with 
 
 Stems of Ships cut in Marble, and flicking out of 
 the Pillar, with an Infcription in the Bafts below 
 in feurvy old Latin. P found it fpoke of a Sea- 
 Vidor y won over the Carthaginians , and of Du- 
 illim , and I car’d for no more, becaufe Livy in 
 better Latin tells me the reft : to wit, that it was 
 D dim that of all the R mans got the firft Naval 
 
 Vidory ; 
 
9i 
 
 
 Part II. ®l0^ag^ Of ITALY. 
 
 Vidory ; and then I eafily concluded, that this 
 i Pillar was ereded to him for that Service. It’s 
 almoft as hard a thing to confter this old Latm y 
 as to have won that Vidory ; and therefore hie 
 leave the words to Petrus Cioconius a flegmetick 
 . Spaniard to comment upon. Yet I learnt out of 
 this Left-handed Latin, this obfervation that the 
 i brave Komans of the higheft times, cared more 
 to do well, than to fpeak well$and that the R man 
 Common-wealth was turned towards her decline, 
 when fine Language was in vogue. 
 
 8. Hard by this Pillar ftana mounted two lit- 
 tle quarter Cannons : a poor Arcenal for the R 0- 
 ynan Senators now adays. 
 
 9. Then mounting up fome ten Steps, I came 
 into a little Court, whole Walls are all encruft- 
 
 : ed over with four excellent pieces of Marcm An- m* Aure- 
 relius his Triumph cut in Marble. In one of them lius bis 
 he triumphed* in his open Chariot : in another Trim Pb, 
 he Sacrificeth : in another he giveth Largefies to 
 the People: in the fourth he receiveth the Prefents 
 of the R mans. They are all fowell cut, that 
 you doubt whether it be the Emperor or the Sculp- 
 tors that triumphs here. Indeed the Emperors 
 Chariot hath got new Wheels of late, and his 
 Horfes new Shoes and Feet, elfe all is old. 
 
 10. Then going up the Stairs higher, Ifawan 
 
 old Plate of Brafs nailed up, in which the R oman 
 Laws of the ten Tables, were written ; good 
 Laws, but few. And I was glad to fee them Leges De- 
 yet kept; if that be to keep Laws, to keep them cem T *bu- 
 nailed fall to the V Vail. larum. 
 
 1 1. T hen entring into the Chambers and great 
 Hall, I few the Starnes of Alexander Farnefe puke 
 
 of 
 
92 
 
 cije twopage of italy. Part ii. if 
 
 of P arma, of M . Antorim Coloring the Popes 
 General in the Battle of Lepanto : and of Von 
 John of Auftria GeneraliJJim. I faw upon the walls 
 painted in Frefco, the rape of the Sabins, the duel 
 of the "Tergemini Fratres, three Brothers againft 
 three Brothers, Horatii againft C uriatii : Scevola 
 holding his hand over the burning Coals : Cocks 
 defending the Bridg alone againft an Army of 
 Men: Scipio , and Hannibal with their feveral 
 Armies, to rarely painted by Pietro Perugino,thzt 
 the Komans now are in Love with Hanibal Then 
 the Pi&ure of thefirft Conful Brutus commanding 
 the Death of his own Son : that of the TarquF ? 
 nil : that of the conquering of the Sabines , &tc. 
 
 All pieces as bold as the very aftions they repre- 
 fent. Here alfo in the .other Chambers, I faw 
 fome fine Starnes, as that of C aim Marius ; that 
 of Hercules in Brafs being but yet a Lad ; that 
 of Junius Brum in Brafs ; the heads in Marble of 
 Diogenes , Plato, Socrates: the Statues of Cicero , 
 Virgil, and Plato ; the Brazen Statue of the 
 Wolf that gave Suck to Komulus and R emus. 1 
 But thebeft Statue here is that of the young Man 
 picking a Thom out of his Foot. Its only of 
 Brafs, but worth its weight in Gold. The Story 
 of it is this; A young Foot-poft bringing Letters 
 of fingular Importance unto the Senate, and prick- 
 ing his Foot as he ran, would not ftay to pick 
 out the Thorn; but haftning to R owe with all 
 fpeed, delivered his Letters in full Senate prodi- 
 gioufly foon, as it appeared by their Dates. But 
 then clappinp himfelf down upon the ground be- 
 fore them all, he began to pick out the Thorn, 
 in the pofture you fee him here. The Senate fee- 
 ing 
 
part ii. €$e manage of italy. 93 
 
 Teeing the hafte he had made, and the pain he 
 had endured, decreed prefently, that his Statue 
 in that pofture , ihould be ereded in the Capi- 
 tol^ 
 
 Thus the old R mans not having then recom- 
 pences enough for well deferving men, or elfe 
 not willing to recompence them otherwife , 
 perfwaded men, that no recompence was like 
 to that of a ftatue in the Capitol , or to walk up 
 and down the ftreets with a crown of Laurel , or 
 Oaken leaves upon their heads. Poor fools ! 
 
 Was a crown of leaves fuch an honour, when 
 even bawdy houfes and privies, faith Tertullian , Tertul. de 
 were crowned too ? Or was it fuch a folid 
 honour to have a ftatue in the Capitol, when Ml IU 
 geefe, and woolfs were honoured fo too? But 
 quod rarrn , charum eft . And as Alexander the senecal 
 Great hearing that the Corinthians would make ude Be* 
 him a Citizen of their town, fcorned it at firft : ne ft c% 
 but after he had been allured that they never 
 offered that honour to anv man but to Hercules 
 and him, he was well pleafed with that offer : 
 fo the rarity of having a flatue in the Capitol 
 being an honour granted to few, and thofe well 
 deferving men, made men think it the higheft 
 of recompences. Among thofe few, were Scifio^ 
 for having overcome Antiochus : JEmlius Lefidus 
 for having, while he was but yet a boy, freed 
 a Roman citizen in a battle : Metellus for faving 
 the Palladium out of the burning Temple of 
 Vefta : Cornelia for having furnifhed corn to the 
 people in a dearth, out of her own moneys; 
 and fome few others. 
 
 Having 
 
I 
 
 94 €tye age Of ITALY. Part II. 
 
 Having thus feen the Capitol, I went into the 
 « a Cali Noble Church of Ara Coeli which is joyning to 
 the Capitol upon the fame hill, and built in the 
 fame place where anciently flood the Temple | 
 of Jupiter Capitolinus , or Jupiter Feretrius. Here 
 it was the Sybille fhewed unto Auguftus Ccefar, at 
 the birth or our Saviour, that a greater Lord 
 than he was born ; whereupon A"guflu$ forbad, 
 that any man fhould call him Lord from that 
 time forward. In this Church is the Tomb of 
 ♦S. Helen Mother of Conftantinthe Great. 
 
 Defcemding from hence by the marble flairs, 
 which are a hundred in all, and all fo large, 
 that twelve men in a breaft may go up at once, 
 ThefePuits I camcto the Jesuits Church and houfe called 
 Church, the Cafa profeffa. The Church is neat and 
 capacious, the Chappels well painted, and the 
 ornaments in the Veftry. very rich. Under 
 the Altar where S. Ignatius his pi&ure is, lyes 
 the body of that Saint, Founder of the Order 
 of the Jesuits. Near the high Altar on the Gof- 
 pel fide is the Tomb of Cardinal Bellamin . In 
 the houfe of thefe Fathers I faw the Chamber 
 of S. \gnatim , now turned into a Chappel, and 
 a fair Library. 
 
 s. Marks Paffing from hence, I ftept into a Pallace of 
 PaUace. S. Marh^ belonging to the ftate of Venice , and 
 the lodging place always of the Venetian Emba/fa- 
 dors redding in the Court of Rome. This Pal- 
 lace, as alfo that of the Canccllaria , and that of ! 
 Farnefe , are faid to have been built of the ftones 
 that were taken from the great Amphitheater ; 
 and yet a great part of it remains ftill ; and I be- 
 lieve, as much as would make three more fuch 
 Pallaces. From 
 
Part II. rootage Of ITALY. 95 
 
 From St. Marks Paliace I went towards the 
 Mount Qjirinal) now called Monte Cavello , and 
 as i went., pafled through that part of the Town, 
 which anciently was called For m Trajani . , and 
 there faw that which Trajan himfelf never faw, 
 to wit, the wonderful Pillar of white Marble e- 
 refted there to Trajan , and therefore called Co- 
 lonna, Irajana , but never feen by him : For he ' 
 died in foreign expeditions, returning from Per- 
 fia without ever feeing it. This Pillar is made of 
 four and twenty great (tones of Marble, in which 
 are carved the exploits of Trajan , efpecially in 
 his wars againft the Dacians . Its a hundred 
 twenty eight foot high, without its hafts , which 
 is twelve foot high. Within it there are a hun- 
 dred fourfeore and five flairs, which deliver you 
 up to the top of it, and there are forty little Win- 
 dows, which let in light enough for you to go 
 up. On the top of all this pillar were anciently 
 buried the afhes of Trajan the Emperor : But Six- 
 tics Qiirntus caufed, in place of them, the Statue 
 in Brafs guilt ofS. Peter to be fet up here. Here- 
 tofore all the bafis of it was buryed under ground 
 in the ruins, but now they have digged about it 
 and cleared it; yet by this we may fee how 
 much the 'ftreets of Rome are higher than they 
 were * Rome now being built upon the ruins of 
 Rome . 
 
 From hence going up the hill I came to the The paU 
 Paliace and Garden of Aldohrandinu The houfe u ce 0 f ai- 
 is but little, yet neatly furnifhed with Statues and dobrandi- 
 Pi&ures. Some whereof are thele : An old Pi- ni * 
 fture made in the time of the Pagans , reprefent- 
 ing a Marriage after the old Romans faftiion. I 
 
 take 
 
 / 
 
96 toot age Of ITALY. Part II. 
 
 take this to be the ancienteft Picture in Rome, and 
 the rarity of it is fo great, that C arvdier Poz.z.o (a 
 brave Gentleman and a greater to/i) got leave to 
 copy it out, and this copy is to be fern in the houfe cf 
 his Brother, among otner rare curiofities, near Sc* 
 Andrea della Valle* Next after this, I was lhown 
 in the forefaid Pallace, the true Picture of Mar- 
 tyn Luther : A rare St. Sebaftian in the Chappel, 
 of Raphaels hand : Upon the Stairs a Statue of a 
 Man hanging by the hands , with great (tones at 
 his feet, weighing him down : A torment much 
 ufed by the Heathens, and praftifed by them up- 
 on Chriftians: With a world of other Ptftures 
 and Statues in the Chambers. 
 
 The Pallace F f0m hence I went to Cardinal Mazzar ini’s 
 of Mazza- Pallace, and there faw in the Garden the famous 
 rini. Pi&ure of the Aurora made by Guido Rheni^ fa- 
 mous over all Rome * In the Court of this Pal- 
 lace, I faw the beft riding Matters of Rome teach 
 young Gentlemen to ride the great Horfe : But 
 I found them here far (horc of the Matters in 
 France , both for good Horfes, and good Schol- 
 Jars, and graceful riding. In the fame Court, 
 in the fummer evenings , they play at ballon ? 
 a manly cxercife much ufed in Italy ^ and 
 far more gentile than our rude foot bailfport. 
 
 The Popes Near to this pallace ftand the Popes ftables, 
 fables, where I law all the Genets that had been prefent- 
 ed to the Pope, fince his creation, by the King 
 of Spain for the Kingdom of Naples $ every 
 year one, with a purfe of gold. The other 
 norfes here were only coach horfes $ for when 
 the Pope gees any whither abroad upon publick 
 Ceremony, the Cardinals , and Prelates upon 
 
 Mules, 
 
Part il ^emoyagc of italy. 97 
 
 Mules, and the noble men of Rom upon their 
 own horfes , wait upon him : and when he 
 goes out of town his own horfe-gards attend 
 him. 
 
 From hence I was prefentlv in the Piatz^a of 
 of Montecavallo , where I law the two famous Monte- 
 horfes in marble, with each one a man holding cxvsUq. 
 him, they were fait to Nero . for a prefent by 
 Tiridates King of Armenia . In the Pedeftal of 
 thefe ftatues are written, under the one of them. 
 
 Opus Phidiee: under the other, Opus Praxitelis . 
 
 Its faid that thele two horfes and men were 
 made by thefe two ancient Sculptors of Greece, to 
 reprefent Bucephalus and Alexander the great. 
 However thefe horfes give name to this hi]], 
 and whereas it was formerly called M ons Quirina* 
 fe; it’s now called Montec avallo. Upon this hill 
 flood anciently the Them £ Conftantinian^p or 
 ; baths of Conjlantin the great, of which there 
 i are feen fane remnants in the garden of Colonna 
 which lies behind the wall of this Pi.iz.zji. 
 
 Over againft the forefaid horfes {lands the The pops 
 Popes pallace where he ordinarily lives in Sum- summer 
 ; mer. The houfe is a noble ftru&ure, and the FaU * cs ' 
 rooms (lately : but I faw nothing rare in them 
 but thcmfelves. The garden of this houfe is 
 curious for fine walks, ftore of fountains, and 
 the cool Grotta under great fhady trees, where 
 there are fine water-worKs, and an organ play- 
 ing without any fingeft to touch it. Over a- 
 gainft the backdoor of this garden (lands the 
 Novitiate of the Jefuits, with the neat new 
 Church and fine Gardens. 
 
 G g Re* 
 
 
98 
 
 S. Sylve- 
 
 fter's 
 
 Church, 
 
 St, Aga- 
 tha’s 
 Church: 
 
 St. Peter’s 
 ad vincu- 
 lum. 
 
 Baron. An. 
 680. 
 
 St. Mar- 
 tino in 
 Ivjonte, 
 
 ©O^age Of ITALY. Part II. 
 
 Returning from hence, I flept into the Church 
 of St. Sylvejter 3 over againfl the Pallaceof Maz- 
 zarina belonging to the Theatins * and there faw 
 the Tomb of Cardinal Bentivoglio , the modern 
 Livy of Italy. The Garden here (landing in a 
 fair Pro(pe£l, is very pleafant and delightfome. 
 
 Defcending from hence, by a private Street, I 
 went to St. Agatha’s Church in the Saburra near 
 the foot of the Quirinal hill. The Body of St. 
 Agatha lies under the Altar. Before the door of 
 this Church are fome antient Statues of fome lit- 
 tle Boys, in the habit of a P r detext a^ a habit be- 
 longing to Noblemens Children. 
 
 From hence, paffing by the Church of Madon- 
 na del monte ( a Church of great Devotion ) 1 
 went up the Hill to St. Peters ad vincula 5 where 
 I (aw the famous Statue of Mofes fitting. IPs of 
 white Marble, and adorning the Tomb of Julius 
 Secundus . It’s enough to tell you that it was made 
 by Michael Angelo , and admir’d by all Sculptors. 
 Here’s, near unto the door of the Church, an 
 Altar with the Statue of St. Sebaftian , at the ere- 
 fting of which, the Plague ceafed in Romy faith 
 Baronins- In the Sacrifty of this Church I faw 
 the Chains in which St. Veter was fetter'd in Prifon; 
 and which make this Church to be called St. Peter 
 ad vincula . 
 
 St. Martino in monte follows next, and is a 
 neat Church now. In a Cave below there were 
 two Councils held by St. Silvefter in the primitive 
 times of Perfection, as the words upon the wall 
 as you defeend into the Cave, and Baronius tefti- 
 fy. Its faid that in this place was exercifed the firft 
 publick Profeffion of Chriftian Religion. 
 
 Then 
 
Part II. C$e movant Of ITALY. 99 
 
 Then to the Church of St. Praxedes, where I st. Prax- 
 faw the Pillar at which our Saviour was edes * 
 whipp’d. It’s a low, round Pillar of Ipeckled rk Pillar 
 Marble. It hands within a little grate of Iron. at robicb 
 The old writing over the door of that Chappe], oursavi * 
 tells you, that it was brought to Rome from Hieru- 
 / 'aim four Hundred years ago, by Cardinal Cj- 
 lonna. In the midft of the Church is a Well 
 (now covered) where St. Praxedes hid the Relics 
 | and Bodies of Martyrs. In another Chappell faw 
 the PidCire of the defcentof our Saviour from the 
 Grols, made by Guido . In the Balconies above 
 in the Pillars, 1 faw, by fpecial favour, many cu- 
 rious Relics. 
 
 From hence I went to Sr. Mary Majors Church, § inU ^ 
 
 ! fo called, becaufe it is the greateft of all the m mag* 
 
 [ Churches of our Lady in R owe. ICs built upon &ore» 
 i the Monte Efquilino , and upon the place which 
 was covered miraculoufly with Snow upon the 
 fifth of Auguft- The Hiftory of it is known by 
 the Solemn feaft in the Kalender, called Sancta 
 Maria ad Nines, and it is expreffed in the old Mo- 
 t faick Piftures, which are fet here in the Wail 
 over the Pillars that bear up the roof. The mod 
 remarkable things I law here were thefe. 
 
 I. The Tomb of the Founder of this Church, 
 j Patritius , whofe Body lies in a Tomb of Porphy- 
 ry near the great door. 
 
 2. The noble guilt Roof, or Soffita , which 
 was guilt with the firft Gold that came out of 
 the Indus in Alexander the VPs time,whofe Arms 
 are fet up in this Roof. 
 
 3|The Mofaick Kftures which ruu along this 
 G g 2 Church 
 
loo QlOt’ftgt Of ITALY. Part II. 
 
 Church,containing theHiftory of the old and new 
 Teftament, and the Hiliory of the building of 
 this Church. 
 
 4 . The high Altar under which repofeth the 
 Body of St. Mathias the Apoftle, whole Head 
 is expofed upon the Altar in a chryltal upon his 
 day. 
 
 5 . The Tomb of an Embaffador of Congo to 
 Taulm V. It’s over againlt the Statue in Braf% of 
 Taulus V.near the Sacrilty. 
 
 6. The little back Court there with the Eccho 
 in the Well, which anfwers you indeed, but like 
 a fharp Scold, too quick and fhort. 
 
 The Chap * 7' The rare Chappel of Sixtus V. made by 
 
 pel of Six- D ominico Fontana , whieh colt feven Hundred 
 tus V. Thoufand Crowns. The molt famous A&iofts 
 of Sixtus Quintws , and of Vim Quintus , who 
 made Sixtus Cardinal, are carved in whit© Mar- 
 st. Hie- ble round about the Chappel. St. Hierorns Allies 
 rom s are buried here in a fide Altar on the left hand : 
 Tomb. and where fhould we look for St. Hterome^ but 
 The holy near our Saviours Crib? which is here enchafed 
 Crib ofourfa Chryftal in a low Chappel under the high 
 Saviour. ^j tar 0 f this Chappel It’s Ihewn publickly up- 
 on Chrijlmas day. The Tabernacle of Brafs,held 
 up by four Angels of Brafs with one hand, and 
 holding each one a Torch in the other Hand, is 
 molt Stately. 
 
 7 le chap - 8 . Over againft this Chappel Hands the Chap- 
 
 py pel of Taulm V. much like the other in all things, 
 l auius v. exce p t that c [ ie c hief Altar (lands not in the mid- 
 dle, but at the end of it: This Altar is a very 
 neat contrivance, and of as rich materials. Four 
 great Pillars, of Jafper pollilh’d, adorned with 
 
 Capitels 
 
Part II. fllo^age Of ITALY. ioi 
 
 Capitels and bafes of Brafs guilt, hold up the 
 back of this Altar, wjiih is all of Lapis Lazuli, 
 or Oriental blew Azure Stone 3 in the midft of 
 which is a little Ldichio in the Wall, where the 
 Pidure of our Bleffed Lady, with our Saviour A P ^ urs 
 in her Arms, madefy St. Luke , isconfeiVd and n f our b. 
 feen. This Nichio is furrounded with a row of Lady, made 
 rich pretious Stones of great value, fet thick a- b Sr - 
 bout it 5 andfhut up with two little half-doors, Luke# 
 of two whole Agates, each of them two foot long, 
 and a Foot large. Theodor us Left or an ancient 
 Author makes mention of this Picture, and faith, 
 Tulcheride , Eudocia Lmagintm matrix Chrijli , quam 
 Lucas Apoftolus pinxerat^HiereJolyms tnijit 3 That Theodor •’ 
 is, Eudocia fent unto Pulchena from Hieruj'alem jf^ or 171 . 
 the pidure of the Mother of Chrift which Luke SJ 
 vthe Apoftle had painted. The pidure its felf 1 s r um. j 
 fo old, and plac’d fo higbg that its hard to perceive 
 the lineaments of the Face, unlefsyoufeeitwith 
 a wax Taper at the end of a long Pole, as I did. 
 
 In fine, this was the Pidure which St. Gregory 
 the Great,a Thoufand years ago, carried in Pro- 
 ceffion upon Eafler day, when he faw over the 
 Moles Adriani , an Angel fheathing his Sword in 
 fign of the ceafing of the Plague. The roof or 
 little Cupola of this Chappel is painted by the hand 
 of Guido Rheni of Bologna . The fide Walls of 
 this Chappel are of white Marble cut in Mezzo i 
 
 relieuo , and containing the chief adions of Cle~ 
 ment VIII. and Paulus V. whofe ftatues are alfo } 
 
 here in white Mable. 
 
 9. W ithout the Church (land two great Pillars 
 at each end of it: the one an Egyptian Guglia cut 
 with Hieroglyphics 5 the other a Roman Pillar 
 Gg 3 taken 
 
102 Clje Of ITALY, Part II. 
 
 taken out of the Ruins of the Temple of Peace, 
 which is of a prodigious height, with the Statue 
 of our Saviour and our Lady upon it, in brafs 
 guilt. 
 
 ss.vho d F rom St. Mary Maiors I went to the Church 
 Mo deft o, of St. Vito and Modcflo. Its built near the ruins 
 The Arch of of the Triumphal-arch of Gaiienm the Emperor. 
 of g alien- The great Keys that are nailed to the top of that 
 forefaid Arch , were the Keys of the City Tuf- 
 cidlum (now called Frefcate) and hung up here in 
 memory of a Viftory won over that Town, un- 
 der Homrim the V.almoft five hundred years ago. 
 From hence I went to the Church of St. Bufe- 
 S. Eufebio. bio, built upon the ruins of the T 'herm* of the 
 Emperor Gordiano , and his Pallace, whole Court 
 had Fifty Pillars on every fide. Near unto this 
 Church were found the Trophies of Marin* , 
 which I fpoke of above in the Capitol* 
 Continuing on my v r ay 3 I came at laft to San- 
 ta Croce in Jerusalem- Its one of the feven Chur- 
 SantaCme ches of Rome, and built by the Emperor Conftan - 
 in Hieruja - t ; ne t [ ie g rcat> ] L {lands near the Walls of the 
 Town in the end of the Mount C*lius . Elard by 
 See Baro- it appear feme prints of the Temple of Venn* 
 nius in his anc j Cufid, which the faia Emperor ruined, to 
 Am'ais, build a Church in the place of them, in honour 
 of the Holy Crofs, and fo repair the injury which 
 the Infidels had done to the Holy Crols in Hie- 
 rujalemy by placing the Statue of Venn* upon 
 mount Calvary, and ftriving to blot out the name 
 of Mont Calwrie, and bring in that of Mont 
 Venerie . This Church is called Santa Croce in 
 Hierufal m, becaufe of the earth of Mount Cal - 
 vane, fchich was v brought from Hierufalem and 
 
Part XL Ctye WO^agC Of ITALY. 103 
 
 kid here. The things I oblerved here , were thefe. 
 
 1. The Painting in the Tribune, or ro:f of the 
 Choir, containing the hiftory of the Exaltation of 
 the Holy Crofs. It looks like the Painting of 
 Pietro Perugino , or fome of his Scholars ; ana it 
 was thought fine work, before Raphael railed 
 Painting to a greater height. 
 
 2. The Chappel below, where the Holy Earth 
 j fent by St. Helen from Hierufale/n , to her Son 
 
 Conftantin the Emperor, was put. 
 
 3- The Relics in the Sacrifty above, to wit, 
 three pieces of the Holy Crofs; one of the Nails 
 of the Crofs of our Saviour 5 two Thorns of the 
 Holy Crown ot Thorns; a great piece of the 
 Title of the Holy Crofs 5 a finger of St. Thorns 
 the Apoftle ; and one of the thirty pieces of Mo- 
 ney for which our Saviour was fold. 
 
 Not far from hence hands the Church of San - S. Bibtim. 
 ta Bibiana. This Church hands in the place cal- 
 led anciently Vrfa Pileata , becaufe of the Statue 
 of a Bear with a Hat on, which hood there. This 
 place is alfo famous for the Church-yards fake , 
 or Cemeterium , called inter duos lams . Here is 
 fome good Painting in this Church of Cmpelli 
 and Pietro Cortonefe. The Statue of the Saint is 
 I of Berninis hand. 
 
 From hence I found a way that led me to the 
 Gate of St. Laurence , through which I went to s j \ Lm J enc ) s 
 the Church of that Saint called San Laurenzo hi * C Mrc ' 
 furori delle mura, by reafon of divers others built 
 in honour of that Saint within the Walls. This 
 Church was built by Cjnflantine too, and enrich- 
 ed by him, with many Prefcnts and Ornaments. 
 
 It was built upon the Cjewtterium SanSde Ciriac * , 
 
 G g 4 where 
 
' ■ 
 
 104 €$e tmo^age of italy. Part n. 
 
 where that Holy Woman ufed to bury the Bo- 
 dies of the Holy Martyrs. It ftands in the Via 
 \ Tibunim , and is one of the feven Churches of 
 Rome 5 and one of the five Patriarchal Churches , 
 and therefore is not titular of any Cardinal. The 
 things char 1 law here, were thele. 
 
 1. The Tomb of St .Laurence^ under the high ! 
 Altar. 
 
 a. Behind the high Altar , the Stone upon ' 
 which the Gridiron (food, upon which St. Lan~ h 
 rence was broiled. Its covered with a great Glals 
 through which you fee it. ji 
 
 3-In the roof of this Church I found thefe words ( 
 
 cut in great Letters of wood $ Quam darificata eft < 
 Hieroftolyma Stepha??o f tarn tlluftrvs facia eft Roma 
 LaurentiOy taken out of S. Leo in nis Sermon up- 
 on the Feaft of S. Laurence . 1 
 
 4. The Catacombes under this Churchy where 
 many Saints Bodies were buried anciently. 
 
 Returning again into the Town , I Itept into 
 L Antonie* St. Antonies Church and Hofpital, near to St. Ma- 
 ry Maiors 5 before which Church ftands a Pillar 
 with a Crofs upon it, ereded here upon the con- 
 verfion of Henry the IV. of France. 
 
 Palling behind St. Mary Maiors^ I went to San- 
 s. Puden - ta Pudentianas Church 5 {landing in the ancient 
 tUni. ftreet called Vicm Patricim. This Church was 
 built upon the place where the houfe of Pudens 
 a Senator and Father of St. Pudentianas lived. 
 
 And here it was that St. Peter ^ at his firft com- 
 ing to Romey lodged, having converted this Pu- 
 Mnnius and his two Daughters Pudentiana and 
 Ad an. 44. p raxe rf es . Here I faw thefe things. 
 
 1. The 
 
 
107 
 
 Part ii. c&e roofage of italy. 
 
 1. The dry Well into which St. Pudentiana put 
 many Relicks of Martyrs to conferve them. I 
 looked into it with a lighted Taper let down in 
 a firing; and fawmany curious relics desked up 
 
 . in the fide of the wall. 
 
 2. The wooden Altar upon which St-Peter faid 
 Mafs at his being here. 
 
 5 . The two Marble Statues of our Saviour and 
 } eter. They are both excellently well cut , 
 and perchance by rare Olivieri- 
 4. The neat Chappel of the Caetam, with the 
 back of the Altar in white Marble, curioufly 
 cut by Olivieri in a bajfo rilievo 3 reprefenting the 
 adoration of the Magi- 
 
 Near the high Altar, is the Pifture of the 
 forementioned Senator Pudens , in his Senators 
 Robes. 
 
 From hence I went to St. Lorenzo in Pamfper- s. Lauren^ 
 m- Here it was that St. Laurence was broiled up- inPani IP er - 
 on a Gridiron , by the command of the Empe - nl ' 
 ror D ecius^ whofe rallace flood where this Church 
 now ftands. Upon the wall of this Church is 
 painted the Martyrdom of St. Laurence in Frefce- 
 Here lie buried the bodies of St. Bridget a Holy 
 Virgin of Scotland 5 and of the Cardinal Sirle- 
 tus. 
 
 Going from hence by a little unfrequented 
 ftreet, running under the foot of Montec avallo , 
 
 I came to the Church of St. Vitalise which fiands s. ritaht* 
 joined to the Garden of the Jefuits Novitiat . Its 
 faid, that the Temple of Q uirinus or Romulus 
 flood here , and that it was here that P roc ulus 
 fwore he faw Romulus affer his death , who bid 
 him go tell the R mans , that he would be ado- 
 red 
 
io 6 
 
 See Plu- 
 tarch. 
 
 Quatro 
 
 Pontxne: 
 
 Santa Ma- 
 ria, della 
 Fittoria . 
 
 €$e tiorage of italy. Partii. 
 
 red by them under the name of Qjirinus : Whea 
 indeed it was thought that the Senators had torn 
 him in pieces in the Senate-houfe , and carried 
 awav under their Gowns, every one a piece of 
 him ; and finding the People to mutter much at 
 his not appearing, had got this P roc ulus to depofe 
 as above ; and To quieted the People, who are 
 as eafily pacified again with a vain tale , as ftir- 
 red up with a fond rumour. 
 
 From hence I went to the Q utro Fontane , 
 which ftand at the head of four ftreets which 
 meet here. Thefe Fountains iffue out from four 
 Statues which lie here in cumbent poftures $ and 
 they were made here by Lepidus.. 
 
 Then following that fair ftreet, I went to San- 
 , u Maria della Fittoria , fo called from the Vi- 
 dory won at the battle of Prague. The Flags and 
 Cornets taken in this Battle, are let round about 
 the Church. In one of the Flaggs over the door, 
 I found Crofs Keys, Cardinals Caps, Miters and 
 Priefts corner’d Caps, all turned topfy turvy , 
 with this Angle motto, Extirpentur. Here are ve- 
 ry neat Chappels, efpeciallv that on the left hand, 
 where is feen the reprefentation of S. Terefa woun- 
 ded by a Seraphim Its an admirable piece of 
 Bernini. In the Convent you fee painted in a Sa- 
 la , the battle of Prague , and in the Sacriftv, a 
 Sepulcher of our Saviour all of Ivory, extraor- 
 dinarily well wrought. 
 
 Before the door of the aforefaid Church, ftands 
 the great Fountain, called Fontana felice, where 
 the Aquedud of Sixtus Quintus (who before his 
 aflumption to Ecclefiafticai dignities, was called 
 in his Monaflery If a Felice) disburdeneth it fclf 
 
 into 
 

 Part II. 4$e motage of ITALY. 
 
 into a great done Bafin, and from thence is carri- 
 ed into divers parts of die town. 
 
 From hence I went to the garden of Montalto , The Garden 
 which is hard by. This is one of the bed gardens in °f MonttU 
 Rome-, and therefore deferves well to be feea t0 ' 
 
 At your entrance into it, you fee a round table 
 of a blewifh done, upon which the arms of the 
 home of Montalto are engraven, at which, while 
 i you gaze curoufly and near at hand, the gardiner, 
 by preffing his foot upon a low Iron Pump, un- 
 der theTable,predeth out water on all (ides of that 
 ' round Table, and welcometh the drangers that 
 come to fee his garden. 
 
 Then mounting into the little Pallace near the 
 door, I faw divers good pi&ures and datues , of 
 thehoufeof Montalto , and others. There alio I 
 faw a wooden Organ, Pipes and all, and yet of no 
 teful found. 
 
 ere alfo I faw the pifture of D avid killing 
 Goliath : It turns upon a frame, and (hews von 
 both the fore-fide of thofe combatants, and their 
 backfides too, which other Pictures do not. Here 
 are curious Urns 5 the true bujlo of Sixtus V. a 
 Tabernacle of rich (tones. There is a Pifture 
 in (tones of feveral colours, which held one way, 
 reprefents nothing but a bunch of Herbs ; blit 
 held up another way, it reprefents a Mans head 
 and face. In fine, here is in this little Pallace, 
 a neat Library in a cool room, over the door of 
 which , on the infide , are written thefe words 
 Medicina animi 5 as if Libraries were nothing 
 but Phyfick-gardens for the mind. 
 
 Defcending again into the Garden, I faw (lore 
 of wetting (ports, and water-works , mod curi- 
 
 ous- 
 
108 SUO^age Of ITALY. Part II. 
 
 oufly contrived, and moil (lately walks. From 
 hence we went to the Cartbufians Church, which 
 is hard by. This Church and Monaftery are 
 The Baths built upon the Ruins of the Baths of Diocletian, 
 of Diode- p or t bi s crue l Emperor with his aflbciate Maxi- 
 man , condemned Forty Thoufand Chriftians to 
 work in this building, for the fpace of fifteen 
 years together, and aiterwards condemned many 
 Thoufands of them to death for their Religion, 
 Thus Men work for Tyrants. But fuch is the 
 wonderful providence of Godf$ Churches of Chri- 
 ftians now (land where Chriftians were condem- 
 ned to death and torments. The Blood of thefe 
 Martyrs was but the feed of Chriftians, and when 
 Diocletian condemned Chriftians to work here, 
 methinks he did but bid them go lay the foun- 
 dation of a Monaftery for Carthufians , and of a 
 Church for the worfhip of that God he fo much 
 perfecuted. 
 
 The Popes Having feen this Church and Monaftery, I 
 granxrids. went to fee the Popes granaries, vaft buildings,two 
 ftories high, and always full of Wheat for the 
 prefent u(e of the whole City. A world of Of- 
 ficers and overfeers belong to thefe Granaries , and 
 are always turning over , and keeping the vaft 
 heaps of Wheat from fpoiling and corrupting. 
 By flicking upon Canes in the heaps of Wheat, 
 they can tell, fmellingat the ends of thefe Canes, 
 whether the Wheat begin to rnoiften and cor- 
 rupt, or no , and accordingly give order either 
 to turn it and air it, or prefently to give it out 
 to the Bakers : Thefe Granaries were alfo built 
 upon the ruins of P iocletiam baths. 
 
 From 
 
Part II. ®^C 5 U 0 ^age Of ITALY. 109 
 
 From thefe Granaries I went to the Town Gate rk church 
 not far off, called Porta Pia , and from thence ofS'Jgnes. 
 (freight along for a good mile, to St. Agnefes 
 Church. Under the high Altar repofeth the 
 body of that tender Virgin , who being as inno- 
 cent as her name, differed martyrdom at thir- 
 teen, and triumphed over the world before (he 
 could know it. 
 
 Clofe by (lands the Church of S. Conftantia , a- 
 nother holy primitive Virgin. Here I faw the 
 famous 1 bmb , commoniy called Bacchus his 
 I Tomb, but falfely, feeing it was the Tomb of S. 
 Conftantia . It’s a va(l arca^ or Cheft of one Por- 
 phyry (lone, above half a Foot thick, and fix 
 Foot long. It’s all cut on the outlide with a bajfo 
 rilievo in a mod admirable manner. 
 
 From hence eroding over the Fields, I went Burghefis 
 to Burghefis Villa and garden, which are a little FiUa * 
 
 1 half mile from the Town. This is the greatefi: 
 i Villa that’s about Rome- For here you have (lore 
 of walks, both open and clofe, Fifli-ponds, vafl 
 Cages for Birds, thickets of Trees, (lore of Foun- 
 tains , a Park of Deer , a world of Fruit-trees , 
 
 Statues of all (izes, Banquetting places, Grotta's , 
 
 Wetting fports , and a (lately Pallace adorned 
 with fo many rare Statues and Pi&ures, that their 
 names make a Book in Oclavo , which I refer 
 ( you to. As for the pallace it felf, it’s compared 
 on both (ides , by a fair femicircle of Statues , 
 which (land before the two doors, like old Pena- 
 tes and Lares. The Wall of the Houfe is over- 
 crufled with a world of Antic allie , or old Mar- 
 ble-peices of Antiquity : As that of Curtins fpur- 
 ring into the Vorago : That of Ettroga hurryed 
 
 away 
 
1 10 manage of italy. Part n. 
 
 away by Jupiter , become a Bull, with a world 
 of liich like Fables. Entring into the houfe , I 
 faw divers Rooms full of curiofides, 
 
 I. In the great Hall Hands the Statue of Dia- 
 na in Oriental Alabafter, which was once a Deity 
 adored by Auguftws Cejar* Here alfo hang two 
 great Pictures , the one reprefenting a Chateau 
 when the Pope goeth abroad in ceremony 5 the 
 other a Cavalcat^ when the great TW^goeth a- 
 broad in Pomp. 
 
 % In another Room Hands the Statue of one 
 of the famous gladiators anciently, who fought 
 alone againft twenty others , and being wounded 
 to death, feems to threaten with his looks all his 
 Beholders. Its terribly well made. 
 
 3. In one of the Chambers above, is the head, 
 in Profile , of Alexander the great, cut in Marble. 
 
 4. In another Room below I faw the Statue 
 of Seneca bleeding to death. It's of a black Hone 
 like Jeat, than which nothing can be blacker but 
 the crimes of Nero the Magiflricide , who put this 
 rare man, his Matter, to death. 
 
 5. The Statue alfo of Daphne and Apollo in A- 
 labaftar ; Apollo runing after Daphne^ and fhe ftif- 
 fening into a tree, being overtaken, her Fingers 
 fhooting into Branches, and her Toes into Roots, 
 are admirably well done. It mutt be Bernini's 
 work. 
 
 6. The Statue alfo of JEneat carrying his old 
 
 Father Anchifes upon his Back, out of burning 
 Troy* The young Man is brawny and ftrong ; 
 the old man is made lean and weak: : As alfo the 
 young man fhews a great deal of tender affe&i- 
 on towards his Father, and the Father as much 
 fear in his looks. 7. The 
 
Part II. SUOtage Of ITALY. i 1 1 
 
 7. The Statue alfo of D avid flinging at Go- 
 liab. He frowns fo terribly as he flings, that you 
 would (wear he intends to fright him with his 
 looks, and then kill him with his fling. Thefe 
 two laft Statues are alfo of the hand oT Cavalier 
 Bernini . 
 
 8. In another Chamber above, Ifawthe great 
 Chair which locketh faft any Man that fitteth 
 down in it. It's faid to be a Chair of Revenge, 
 ar a Trap-chair for an Enemy : But methinks it 
 
 1 would be a fine Chair for a reftlefs Student ; or a 
 Golliping Wife. 
 
 I faw here alfo fome toys for young men ; as 
 ! the Clock, which being wound up , playeth a 
 tuneable Dance, and little Men and Women of 
 iron painted handfomely, dance in a ring to that 
 tune, by vertue of the Wheels. The Fools Pa- 
 radice reprefenting firfi a fine green Garden of 
 Flowers, then a Paliace, and laflly a neat Libra- 
 ry, is made alfo to recreate Children. 
 
 Returning from this Villa by the back door 
 1 which lcadeth to the Porta del Populo , I ftept in- 
 to the Church of Modoma del Populo. This Madonna, 
 
 ' Church hath been much beautified of late byPope del Vopulo. 
 Alexander the VII. becaufe of fome of his ance- 
 ftors buried here. Here I faw the famous ftatue 
 of Jonas made by the command of Raphael Vr- 
 bin * who fhewed the fculptors of his time how 
 perfe&ly he poffefled the Theory of Sculpture, 
 if he would but have dirtyed his Fingers with 
 that dirty art. In a Chappel near the Gofpei 
 fide of the high Altar, I faw a good Pi&ure of 
 the hand of Guido Rheni. Where now the high 
 Altar hands, flood anciently the Tomb of Nero. 
 
 Going 
 
1 1 3 C&e ffiMJ^age Of ITALY. Part IL 
 
 Going on from hence on the left hand, to- 
 wards the Piazzadi Spagna^ I firfl palled by the 
 great Guglia , or Egyptian Pyramid , carved all o- 
 ver with Hieroglyphs. Its looked upon by three 
 fireets, and feen afar off Thai palling a little 
 The Gree\ further,! came to the Greek Church and Colledgc, 
 Colledge. where, upon certain days ,1 law their Ceremonies, 
 and heard the Mafs fung in Greek,after the Greek 
 manner. Thefe Grecians are in union with the 
 Roman Church; and have a Seminary of young 
 Students of their Country , maintained by the 
 Pope to return to their Country in Million/ 
 Mounting from hence on the left hand to the 
 top of the Hill, by the Coach way, I went into 
 TbtFilh of the Villa of the great Duke, where I faw the 
 the great neat Gardens with Fountains, two or three huge 
 Duke. Veffelsof Marble, and tore of Statues, both in 
 the Pallace, and in the long Gallery. That of 
 the two Gladiators wreflling : That of the Clown 
 whetting his Sithe, and hearing the Confpirators 
 of Cataline fpeaking of their Confpiracy , which 
 he difeovered, is one of the bell: pieces of Sculp- 
 ture in Rome. That of Cupid and Venus are ad- 
 mirable. From the Chamber-window of this 
 Pallace, you have a perfeft light of Rome under 
 you. In the Garden there is a little GugUa , with 
 many other curiolities. 
 
 Going out from this Garden, by the back door, 
 
 I croffed over the Street , and was prefently at 
 riUi Ludo - the back door alfo of the Villa Lud$vi]ia , helong- 
 vt ' a ' ing to the Prince Ludovifio. This Villa Hands in 
 an excellent air,being feated high. There are two 
 Houfes in this Garden, and both furnilhed with 
 exquifite rarities. Tnat which Hands near this 
 
 back- 
 
partir. ct)e5Jio?ageof italy. n 3 
 
 back door, afforded me thefe curiofities. A rare The firjl 
 Pidture of the Biefled Virgin Mary, made by Hou ^ 
 Guido R heni. Its the beft pi&ure of her that e- 
 ver I faw. A Rich Cabinet, with the Picture of 
 Pope Gregory the XV. in a Cameo, and other rich 
 . Stones adorning it. A neat little Clofet full of 
 divers rarities ; as a true Hydra's skin with feven 
 necks, a petrified fungus : The true Pifture of 
 Francis the jfirft of France , with that alfo of his 
 Phyfician , both made by Laurenzjo Vinci , and 
 ! effeemed rare peices, with many other little cu- 
 ' rioflties. In another Room, the heads in white 
 marble, of Gregory the XV. and his Nephew 
 Cardinal Ludovifio. A Chamber, full of curious 
 ' Gaffes. Upon the Stairs a little Cupid fo loaden 
 with a Quiver of Arrows, that another little Cu- 
 I fid is forced to hold them up behind him. But 
 that which is the mod rare thing in this Villa, or 
 perchance in any in Korns, is the incomparable 
 bedftead which is feen in one of the Chambers of 
 this Pallace. Its all of pretious ftones, and va- 
 lued at an Hundred Thoufand Crowns. The four 
 I Beft-pofts are all of Oriental polifhed Jaffer. 
 
 The reft of it is of other rich Stones ; but the 
 head of it exceeds far the reft , for Riches and 
 ; Art, efpedally the midft of it, where the Arm$ 
 of the Family of Ludovifio , are curioufly fet in 
 ! rich Stones or feveral colours, according to the 
 colours of the Coat of Arms. Here you have 
 bunches of Grapes, fome red, fome white, but 
 all of rich Stones. Here are vaft Amethyfts , one 
 fquare, another ¥ound in pyramidal form. Here \ 
 Phaeton in his Chariot in a C.meo , with the 
 Wheels of his Chariot of precious Stones ; and 
 
 Hh a 
 
f 
 
 1 14 WQW&t Of ITALY. Part II. 
 
 a world of fuchrich work, which makes his Bed- 
 dead the nonpins of art and magnificence. I do 
 not know for all that, why Beds ftould be made 
 of Stones, though pretiousones > If it be for the 
 Princefs of this houfe to be brought to Bed in, 
 it portends unto her a hard labour ; if to lodge 
 in it the everlading fame of the greatnefs of this 
 Family , it is a vain labour ; feeing precious * 
 floncs will moulter away in time, as other ftones 
 do, 
 
 Omnia mortalia mortalitati damnata. 
 
 For my part, the bed ufe I know for it, is, to | 
 lay the petrified man in, whom we (hall find 
 prefently in the other Pallace of this Villa : Beds ] 
 of done are fitted for Men of done. 
 
 Hard by this houfe dand the Fountains and I 
 Water-works, which, with their fhady Trees, 
 correft the hotted Beams of the Italian Sun, and 
 afford unto the owner of this Villa , Rain and j 
 Clouds of his own at will, even in June and Ju~ j 
 ly. 
 
 The fecond From hence eroding through the Garden , I J 
 Hoiife. went to t j ie 0 thcr houfe that dands in it , where i 
 I was fhewn, in the feveral Chambers, many cu- ! 
 rious things : As, two brave old Gladiators in i 
 done, fitting down : Four rare pieces of Guido j 
 Rheni^ to wit a St. Francis , a Lucretia , a Judith , t 
 and a Converfion of St. Paul .* Divers curious ; 
 Pidures of the hand of Titian , Raphael + Michel \ 
 Angelo , Carr ac cio and others :*A rare head in 
 marble of Scipio Affricanus : The head of Sene- 
 ca in faflo, of great value. Cicero's head alfo in 
 
 bufloi 
 
Part ii. dje nonage of italy. 115 
 
 b'ifto: Some rich Tables of inlaid hones ; the 
 little Boys in Ivory greater than I thought it po- 
 ffible for Ivory to have furnifhed . two rare ApoU 
 tit in white marble; the oracle of Porphyry which 
 fpake once ; the ftatue of an old Gladiator dying of 
 his wounds in agreatfquare box lined with vel- 
 vet. I favv the body of a petrified man, that is , 
 a man turned into (lone. One peice of the leg A Petrified 
 ( broken to aflure an Embaflador , doubting of Man* 
 the verity of the thin g) fhewed me plainly both 
 the Bone and the Stone crufted over it. The 
 head and the other parts lie jumbled up togedier 
 in the Box. If you ask me why they do not put 
 this body into fome tomb to bury it ^ I anfwer 
 you, that it needs no other Tomb then this cruft 
 of Stone. Indeed I never faw a body fo neatly 
 intombed as this : You would fwear that this 
 Tomb is a pure Juftaucorps rather than a Tomb i 
 It fits as clofe as if a Taylor had made it. And 
 that you may not think it an impoilible thing that 
 men fhotild be thus petryfied , I muft mind you 
 what Ortelim laith, that upon the Mountains fi- Ortelitis in 
 tuated in the Weftern parts of Tartary are feen Tdb - Geo- 
 figures of Men, Cammels, Sheep and other Beafts, j. ra P h 
 which by an admirable Metamorpbofis , were lc£h 
 changed into Stones, about three hundred years 
 ago. And Ariftotle himfelf fpeaks of men petri- AAftotM* 
 fyed in the hollow cave of a Mountain near Per - fe an.c.^o» 
 gmm . In another Chamber Hands a great Clock 
 of brafs, guilt, as tall as a man, and it Hands in- 
 deed ; for I think it hath not gone fince it went 
 out of Germany to Rome. They tell us pretty 
 things that this Clock did , when it was young ; 
 but now it cannot fo much as ftir its hand : Thus 
 H h 2 time 
 
1 1 6 socage Of ITALY. Part II. 
 
 time calhiers at laft its own Heralds ; and break- 
 cth the Clocks by which we know her. In ano- 
 ther Chamber of this honfe I faw a new Statue 
 in pure white Marble, of the rapt of Preferpina : 
 Its of the hand of Bernini. In another Room I 
 faw the rare Statue of Ceflirn Marius , killing 
 himfelf with his dagger, upon fight of his dead 
 Daughter , who had -killed her felf for fear of 
 falling into the hands of a luftful Emperor. De~ 
 feending from hence into a long low Gallery of 
 Statues, I found here feme very good ones, as 
 that of Juniivs Brutus^ of Nero , of Domitian , See. 
 But the beft thing I faw there was the head of 0- 
 lympievs (Mother of Alexander the Great ) in a 
 baffo riliem , and in a frame. 
 
 Capu- Going out of this Villa by the great door be- 
 ' hind the Capucins , I fkpt into the Church of the 
 faid Capucins , and faw there in the fecond Chap- 
 pel on the left hand, the Tomb of Santo Felice , 
 a Lav-brother of this Order , famous all Rome 
 over for his known Sanctity. Here lies alfo bu- 
 ried Cardinal Antonio Barberino , brother to Pope 
 Vrban the VIII. otberwife called Cardinal Sand 
 Onofrioy who having been long a 'Capucin^ was 
 made Cardinal by his Brothers exprefs com- 
 mand ; and being Cardinal, lived ftili a Capucin 
 in the efteem of all that knew him. His humi- 
 lity would not fo much as let his name be fet up- 
 on his Tomb-fione ; but inftead of it, and his 
 other Titles, I found only thefe words, hie jacet 
 umbra , cinis^ nihil. This Cardinal and Cardi- 
 nal MaxMy made by Clement the VIII. are all 
 the Cardinals that the Capucins order hath had. 
 
Part ii. tmopase of italy. i 17 
 
 Over again ft the Cafucins hands the Pallace P 'aiaxx° 
 of thefamily of Barberini poffcflcd now by the Bar biTln 9 
 Prince of Pale fir ina of that Family, this is one 
 of the nobleft Pallaces in Time, for its (lately fi- 
 tuatiOBsiipon an hills fide $ for the two neat (tair- 
 cafes ; the noble Painting in the roof of the great 
 Hall by Pietro di Cortona ; the world of Statues 
 and Piftujres in the Gallery ; the rare fequens of' 
 Chambers, one going into another 5 the double 
 affartimeht ; eacli capable to lodge any King in f 
 and each rarely fumilhed; in fine, for rhe rare 
 Library of Cardinal Franc ef'co Barberino. 
 
 Defcedding from hence towards the Minims 
 of Trinit a di Monte , I dept into a little Church 
 of Spanifh Auguftins^ called Santo Ildefonfo , which SMefonfc* 
 1 cannot pafs by without taking notice of ; be- 
 caufe I think no body clfe doth, it is fo little 5 yet 
 having deferibed the greateft Church of Rome The leafi 
 (St. Peters) fo exactly ; I cannot but fay fome- church in 
 thing of the lead Church in Rom : Dwarfs are Rome * 
 Men as well as Gyants , and though this Church 
 may feem rather to be a map or model of a 
 Church, than a true Church ; yet feeing it hath 
 not only all the lineaments, features, and meen 
 of a Church, but alfo all the noble parts of a 
 Church, as High Altars, Side Chappies, Cupola, 
 
 Quire, &c. I fear not to call it a Church, tho" 
 for bignefs, it would not make the little finger of 
 St. Peters . 
 
 From hence I went {freight on to the Minims rhe church 
 of Trimta di Monte , belonging to France and St. of Trinity 
 Francis of Paula's order. This Convent is the di Monte . 
 bell feated of any in Rome^ and one of the nobleft, 
 being founded by King Lewis the XI. of France • 
 
 Hh 3 over- 
 
Ii3 CJjetm O^agtof ITALY. PartIL 
 
 overlooking all Romt^ and looked upon recipro- 
 cally by the belt places in R owe. In the Church 
 I faw divers good peices, as the Affurnption of 
 our Lady by Zuccary, the Pi£ture of the taking 
 down of our Saviour from the Cots by Raphael ± 
 the Pi 6t ure of our Saviours appearing to St. Ma- 
 ry Magdalen , by Julio Romano Raphaels Scholar, 
 
 ’ and imitating very much in this Pifture , Ra- 
 phael's colours. See in the dormitory of this Con- 
 vent the curious perlpedive of S. Francis of Pau- 
 la^ and a rare Sun Dyal ingenioully contrived. 
 Fia^o di . Defending from hence into the Piazza di Spag - 
 ^ na ' ml faw the Poun tain of thefhip, which in fum- 
 mef nights they let overflow , to cool the Piazza 
 and the neighbouring ffreets. In this Piazza hands 
 thePallace of the Spanifh EmUjfador , belonging 
 alwayes to him that is Embajfador here. In the 
 CoHegio de endof the Piazza Hands the Colledg de propagan- 
 d T °idf anr of propagating the Faith,founded by Vr- 
 
 P e ' ban the VIII. to maintain divers ftudcnts of the 
 Eaftern counti ves, and even of India and Ethio- 
 pia too, who having finifhed their ftudies in this 
 Colledge , are fent back again to their feveral 
 Countries 3 with great profit and advantage to 
 thofe poor Infidels , who would fit ftill in the 
 darknefs of infidelity , were it not for the Pope’s 
 care and charity: 
 
 Fontitu de From hence I fleered to the Piazza of the 
 Trevi. Fontana de Trevi, and in my way, faw divers 
 (lately Pallaces, inhabited by Cardinals , becaufe 
 they (land near the Foot of Montec avallo^ where 
 the Pope refides. This Fountain of Treve is not 
 yet finifhed, as to the firu&ure that was intend- 
 ed 5 but onlv the water is brought hither, and in 
 
 that 
 
Part II. Clje fflJOpge of ITALY. 1 19 
 
 that quantity, that it Teems to make three little 
 Rivers , at the three mouths , out of which it 
 gufheth. 
 
 From hence I went nearer unto the foot of the The Mxro- 
 hill Montec audio, and ftept into the Colledge of niss Col ~ 
 the Maronites , in whofe Church I heard them k 
 ringing Mals in their own language , and after 
 their own rites, as the Chriftians of Mount Liba- 
 nw$ have immemorably ufed to do. Their lan- 
 guage is Arabic , and they have always kept 
 themfelves free from Herefies ; and in Union 
 with the Roman Church , thefe five Hundred 
 years. 
 
 From hence I went to the Church of the SS. ss; Apofto- 
 Apoftoli , built in honour of the Twelve ApotHes , li - 
 by Conftantine the Great; who in honour of thofe 
 Holy Apoftles , carryed out of the Foundation, 
 twelve Baskets of Earth , upon his own Shoul- 
 ders. In this Church lies buried , St. Philip and 
 Jacoby two Apoftles. In the Piazza before this 
 Church , ftand four fine Pallaces; that of the 
 Prince Colon na , that of Cardinal Qhifi , that of 
 Cardinal Sforza , and that of the Signori Mutu 
 
 Crofting from hence into the Corfo , I took an The Corfo. 
 exa£t obfervation of this Street, which is the fai- 
 reft in Rome. Its called the Corfo , becaufe here 
 it is that they make Horfes run againft Horfes, 
 
 J ews againft Jews, Boys againft Boys, and the 
 ike, in Carneval time. Here alfo it is that the 
 Mafcarades march in Carneval time, and make 
 themfelves and others merry : And all this is al- 
 lowed the Italians , that they may give a little 
 vent to their Spirits , which have been Trifled in 
 for a whole year, and are ready clfe to choak 
 
 H h 4 with 
 
 T ' i 
 
 * 
 
120 menage Of ITALY. Part II. 
 
 with gravity and melancholy ; mod men here 
 living alone in their Houfes and Chambers. If 
 our Statefmen in England had gone on in the 
 courfe their wife Anceflors had {hewed, and had 
 fuffered, as they did, fome honefl recreations to 
 the People, as Bowling, Shooting, Racing , Etc. 
 to give vent to their a&ive Spirits, we had all 
 been happier : But while both the Tribunals, 
 and the Pulpits thundered out againfl: moderate 
 Recreations and Affemblies , out of Fear and 
 Fadicn , they made the humor of the Englifh 
 men grow fo lowr and bitter, that nothing would 
 pleafe them , but flat Rebellion , and Fanatick 
 Herefies. Now here in Rom , once a year , In 
 Carnival time, every one vents his hunpr ac- 
 cording to his fancy, and fas it feems ) accor- 
 ding to his need. One plays the Dodor of the 
 Law , and goes up and down the ftreets with his 
 Book , in his Hand, difputing with every man he 
 meets , and uttering pure rallery : And if by 
 chance two fuch Dcdours meet, they make fport 
 enough, for half an hour, by their abufing one 
 another. Four of thefe pretended Dodbrs, with 
 their Gowns and Caps on, and their Books of the 
 Codex before them, got an Afs into d^eir Coach , 
 who had alfo another Book before him ; ana 
 thus they went along the facets , ftudying and 
 turning over their Books- Anotner takes him- 
 felf to be a grand Cyril? ^ and goes a Horfc-back, 
 with a rich Perfian Habit , and Plumes highly 
 mounted. One went a Foot gravely , with a 
 Cloak on, andcryed a Secret againfl Mice , and 
 opening his Cloak, {hewed a Cat that he had un- 
 der his Arm $ another went up and down the 
 
Part II. nonage Of ITALY. 12 1 
 
 dreet, combing his Hair like a Spaniard , faluting 
 the Ladies, and twirling up his Mudaches with a 
 flayed gravity. Some go in Coaches and there 
 play on Inftruments : Others go on great Carts, 
 with litde flages of boards thrown upon them, 
 and there aft little Plays, as they go along, and 
 abufe Tradefmen. One rides like a Phyfitian 
 upon a Mule , with a world of Urinals hung 
 round about him. Others ride gravely through 
 the drects, with great Cloak-bags behind them, 
 as if they came from Polonia . Some Princes 
 here mate glorious Carrots , with four Horfes on 
 a bread, drawing them, and with rare Pageants 
 upon them, and a great train of Hprfemen and 
 Trumpeters clad exorically , accompanying the 
 Cano ;n a mod glorious manner. Some Noble- 
 men of Jiighed Quality , as Dukes and Princes, 
 
 I have feen going a Foot , pelting, with fugar 
 plumbs, thole that were in Coacnes and Win- 
 . dows$ and angering them with their fugar affronts, 
 but never did any Mafcarade pleafe like that fpe- 
 culative Italian , who mocked both the French 
 and the Spaniards at once , by walking up and 
 down the drect, clad half like a Don y and h^lf 
 like a Monfieur . One fide of his hair hung down 
 in a long curled lock, powdered white : The ci- 
 ther fide was black and fweaty. Half of his 
 beard was turned downwards : The other half 
 was turned up with Irons, and twirled in like the 
 hilt of an old Dagger. One eye was bare, and 
 the other had a Glafs or half Speftacle before it, 
 held on by a fmall wire from under his Hat. 
 
 Half his Hat was a narrow three fingered-brim’d 
 Hat, with a little half Feather upon the Brim : 
 
 The 
 
122 
 
 W O^ageoHTALY. Partir. I 
 
 The other half of it was a broad Brim 3 with- 
 out fo much as a Hat-band. One half of his 1 
 Band about his neck, was of a broad bone Lace, 
 hatched white, the other half was made of courfe 
 Lawn, hatched blew, and handing out upon a 
 pickyailly of wire. Half of his Face looked 
 white with Meal and Powder , the other half 1 
 looked black and tawny. Half of his Doublet 
 was white Satin with an open Sleeve, and a world r 
 of fhirt huffing about his wrih, and half on his i: 
 waft; the other half was of black Freeze, with r 
 a black Taffety fleeve clofe and hrait to the arm, ( 
 and a hanging heeve of Freeze. One half of his ( 
 Breeches was of Scarlet, and vahly wide at the ! 
 knee, with a confufion of Ribbonas, of fix co- 1 
 lours 5 the other half was of black Taffety, clofe ; 
 at the knee. Upon one leg he had a Linnen 
 Stocking, with a great laced Canon turn’d down 
 to his half leg; on the other he had a black filk 
 Stocking drawn up clofe. In fine, on one Foot 
 he had a white Spanifh Leather Shoe, with a ftiff 
 knot of fix coloured Rjbbond, a quarter of an 
 Ell long ; on the other a little black flat foled 
 Shoe, tyed with a fhort narrow Ribbond. Thus 
 this moral Hermaphrodite, and walking Emblem 
 of peace, between the two Nations, walked up 
 and down the Corfo gravely; yet laughing vvi th- 
 ing himfelf, to fee how he carryed about him 
 two fuch Antipathetical Nations in one fuit of 
 Cloaths. By this you may guefs at their other 
 fooleries in Carneval time, and fee how inno- 
 cently they divert themfelves : For you muft 
 know, that none are fuffered to carry Swords 
 or Arms, while they go masked thus ; nor to 
 
 enter 
 
Part II. tUO^Sge of ITALY. 123 
 
 enter into any houfe ; nor to be abroad masked 
 after it grows dark 5 nor to do or lpeakany thing 
 fcandaloufly that may fhock civility or publick 
 view : for which reafon here are always Guards 
 fet, and Sergeants riding up and down the Street 
 of the Corfo , to keep all in order, and to makee- 
 ven .Mirth obferve Decency. 
 
 In this Street alio of the Corfo it is that Noble- 
 men and Ladies take the riir every fair Evening 
 in their Coaches. For this reafon there are ma- 
 ny fine Pailaces built in this Street; asthePallace 
 of Signor Vitelle\chL where 1 faw ten Chambers Some PaU 
 on a floor, and all of them filled with a rare Col- ^cesintbe 
 leftion of Pictures and Statues. Among the Sta^ Cor *°* 
 tuesl was pleafed exceedingly with that of Cincin- 
 natuSs and with that of Brutus , defac’d by the 
 command of the Senate, where the very marks 
 of the Punches of the Halberts wherewith they 
 defaced it, are yet feen. Not far from it Panels 
 the Pallace of Principe Pmfilio , in which I faw 
 more Riches and rare Furniture than in any houfe 
 in Rome^ or almoft in Italy. For here they fhdw- rbePatlace 
 ed me excellent Plate of Gold and Silver: an ^ Pam * 
 Agate Crofs fixed upon a Foot of the root of hho ' 
 SaJ>hyr-Stone , and under it a Bafis befet rounda- 
 bout it Cameos cut into Pidtures : a great Silver 
 Crucifix upon an Ebeny Frame, the whole worth 
 1 2003 Crowns: a rare Cabinet with the Pifture 
 of our blefled Lady in it, the whole valued at 
 6000 Crowns : a Sword whofe Hilt is of three 
 great Turky-Stones of great value; a Bafin of 
 gold Cet thick with Turkey-Stones : three or four 
 great Eez.oar Stones, as big as Pearmaens, which 
 had been prclentcd to Clement the VIII from all 
 
 Parts 
 
124 ®Wge Of ITALY- Part H 
 
 Parts ,becaufe he flood in need of them: a rich 
 Mitre, fet with pretious Stones of great value, 
 and a world of curious Originals of the beft Paint- 
 ers hands: curious Saddles, Hamels, Liveries of 
 fhow Embroidered with Gold and Silver, with 
 many other rich Curiofitics. The other Palla- 
 ccs in the Corfo are thefe 5 that of Principe Carbo - 
 niano ; that of Cardinal Franciotti ; that of Don 
 Augufitm Chifi, that of ‘Principe Ludivifio , that 
 of the Duke Gaetano. 
 
 There are alfointhis Street fome Churches 
 ' worth taking notice of 5 as that of St. Maria in 
 smt Mi- Pi* Lata^ which ftands near the Pallace of the 
 ria in vii- Prince Pamfilio. It’s an ancient Church, and 
 Liu. Cardinals Title- Baronin* faith, that its built 
 there where St. Paul lodged at nis firft coming 
 to Rome. It’s faid alfo that in the Oratory here 
 St. Luke wrote the Ad s of the Apoftles. 
 
 There is alfo in the Corfo the Church of St. 
 s. Mir • Marcello , a title of a Cardinal. It was built in 
 cello* the place where anciently flood the Temple of the 
 Infamous Egyptian Goadels which Tiberius 
 himfelf caufed to be pulled down, the Idol thrown 
 into Tyber^ and all the Priefls of it to be crucified, 
 for having favoured a great crime committed by 
 a R oman Lady. Behind this Church ftands the 
 Oratory of St. Marcello , called the Oratory of 
 the Holy Crucifix, where there is a famous Con- 
 fraternity in which many noble Mai of Rome are 
 enrolled. Every Friday in Lent there is excellent 
 Mafic, and one of the beft Preachers in Rome. 
 From hence alfo in the Holy year I faw march a 
 Proceffion 1 5000 Men, all in black Buckram 
 Coats to the Heels, with a white Torch in their 
 ~ Hands 3 
 
Part n. wage of italy. 125 
 
 Hands 5 and they went from hence on the Night 
 of Manday Thurj day unto St. Peters Church. 
 
 Then the Church of St. Carlo in Corjo, where st. Car- 
 I faw the Heait of St. Charles Barromeo in a Chry- fo in Co: 
 ftal cafe. This Church belongs to the Mila - lo * 
 nefu 
 
 Then the Church of St. Jacam deg? Incur abi-* Su J acc £ 
 //, a neat round Church belonging to the Hofpi- ™urab% 
 tal here, where they that are affiifted with incure- 
 ab’cDifeafes, are entertain’d and well tended. 
 
 Laftly the Church of the Penitent Whores The Con- 
 with their Convent; where all thefe poor Souls vent °/ fi 
 that repent themfelves of their bad life, are receiv’d I IJP™ 
 and kept all their Life-time, at the coft of this 
 Convent. And here I found a great difference 
 between this Convent and the houfe in Amfter- 
 dam , where Whores are clapM up. For here 
 thefe poor Souls are lock’d up with their own con- 
 fent and defire : there they are locked up by force 
 and violence. Here the poor Women do great 
 afis of Aufterities and Penance ; as the bloody 
 Walls of their Cedes , laid open by a CSftflagrati- 
 on fhewed unto all the City : there the young 
 Women laugh, and are merry. Here no Man 
 is permitted to fpeak alone with them,except their 
 Confeflor and Phvfician ; there many Men go to 
 prattle and pafs their time with thofe wanton 
 Girls, at a feparation of rails. Here a V ail hides 
 thefe poor Womens Faces : there I faw divers 
 with black Patches on their Faces. Here all figns 
 of true Repentance are feen, there none. Here 
 the love of Virtue and Penance locks up thefe : 
 there the vice of Love locks in thofe, and not true 
 Repentance ; for really all the Repentance I faw 
 
 there 
 
126 500tage Of ITALY. Part II. 
 
 there was, that it repented me, that I had differ- 
 ed mine Kg I (who would neads fhew me all the 
 Rarities of Amsterdam) t iead me thither. 
 o je ion. q ^ ut an i T ^iander to me, the Pope al- 
 lows Whores in Rome. 
 
 Anfwsr. To whom I anfwered, no more Sir, than your 
 States do Drunkennefs ; which is a greater Sin of 
 the two, becaufe it rides double, and carricth 
 Luxury behind it. Do not drink Wine in which 
 is Luxury. Ephef. 5. 
 
 cb\e&. But faith an Englijh Writer, I am told that 
 the Pope both permits, and takes Money of them 
 too for that permiflion. 
 
 Anfw. You have been told many other falfe tales by 
 Fenton thofe who think it Lawful to tell untruths, fothey 
 of vfurr fi? ea k but againft the Pope : in the mean time I 
 /. 2.1 9! that have been five times in Row, can tell you 
 the contrary- if, by permitting, you mean allow- 
 ing and approving of them in that courfe. There’s 
 a great difference between allowing and permit- 
 ting a thing. Mofes allowed not, but yet per- 
 mitted ffie Libel of divorce to the Jem^ for the 
 hardnefs of their Hearts. So Ufury is permitted, 
 Mattb. i. b ut not allowed in divers Countries, for Trades 
 8 - fake. 
 
 objeft. But why takes he Money of them.? 
 
 This Money is taken up by you upon credit, 
 n i w * not the Pope. For the Pope is fo far from receiv- 
 ing any Money of thefe drabs that he goes to 
 great coft to hinder their trading. No Man per- 
 haps hath told you this, and therefore Tie tell 
 you: know then that the Pope to h inder all young 
 Women from being naught, hath founded Hos- 
 pitals for poor Girls, where they are carefully 
 
 brought 
 
Part II. ®t)Z ©towage of ITALY. 127 
 
 brought up till they become either Married wives, 
 or Nuns. Nay he gives them Dowries alfo to 
 execute this their choice, diftributing yearly, up- 
 on the Feaft of our Lady day, in Lent, in the 
 Church of the Dominic am y j.rpra Minervam y a 
 Purle of Money a piece, to three hundred young 
 Maids who are prefentea to him by the Overfeers 
 of the aforefaid Holpitals. Nor is this all, for he 
 caufeth young Girls of tender years to be taken 
 from their poor fufpe£ted Mothers, left Poverty 
 qude cogit ad turpia y fhould make them facrifice 
 thofe tender V irgins to Rich Mens Lufts. In fine, 
 k he hath caufed a Monaftery to be built in Rome Vetrusa, 
 to receive thofe poor unfortunate Women in, ^ 
 who would leave that infamous courfe, if they cllwhgi* 
 had but means to live on. Nav, he granteth In- C il Tret- 
 dulgences to any that will marry any of thofe lure. 
 Women to free them from that lewd Courfe, 
 and make them mend. All this the Pope doth, 
 
 , and much more 5 which would be a deftroying 
 of his own trade and gain, if it were true, that he 
 countenanceth and alloweth of Whores for his 
 gain. No Miller ever deturned the Current of 
 Water from his own Mill. 
 
 But why doth not the Pope difcountenance and 
 puninfh Whores that are known to be fuch ? 
 
 He doth fo. For is it not a difcountenancing of A ’ l * w * 
 them, to forbid them to come to publick Meetings, 
 and Affemblies, where women of Honour meet? 
 as at the Corfo y in the Evenings y at public Mar- 
 
 I riages 5 at their fung operas and the like? Is it not 
 a Difcountenancing or them to forbid them to go 
 in Coaches in the day time ; or to ftir out of 
 doors in the night Is it not a punifhment to them 
 
 to 
 
128 Of ITALY. Part II. 
 
 to forbid them to live together, where they might 
 encourage one another, and pafs their time mofe 
 chearfully ? But for the mod part they live alone, 
 condemned to the melancholly horror of their 
 Crimcs 5 and the Solitude of fevetl whole Weeks in 
 Lent;when,upon pain of rigorous Punifhments and 
 Imprifonment,they dare not admit of any Cufto- 
 mers. The like "rigor is ufed againft them alfo 
 , in Advent, that during the fpace of thofe- holy 
 times, thefe unholy Women may have time to 
 think of themfelves, and admit of God’s holy In- 
 fpirations for their amendment. Is it not a Pu- 
 nifhment to them to be oblig’d to enter their names 
 Tdtif. An - pnblickly in the Lift of Whores? For if Tacitus 
 nah 2 . obferves that the old Romans, Satis pyenarum ad - 
 
 verfum impudicut in ip fa profeffione fiagitii apud IE- \ 
 diles credebant ; thought it Punifhment enough , a- 
 gainfi unchaft Women, in their very prof effing them- 
 [elves to be fuch befre the /Ediks. I cannot but 1 
 think it a great Punifhment to Chriftian Whores 
 ( who are at lead: as fenfiblc as the Heathens, of 
 the horrible Difgracc of having the- r Name lift- 1 
 cdj to be thus defam’d for ever, by remaining t 
 
 Whores upon Record. Is it not a punifhing of t 
 
 them, to deprive them all their Life- time ( as 
 long as they live Whores ) of the holy Sacra- 1 
 ments; and after their Death, of Chriftian Buri- 1 
 al ? Is it not a Punifhment, and a deterring of ( 
 them from Vice, to throw their Bodies when I 
 they dye into an obicure place, o : it of the Walls ' 
 of the Town, as if they deferv’d no other Buri- p 
 al-places rhan that of A lies ? Is it not, in fine, a p 
 Punifhment to them not to be allow'd to make 
 any Will orTeftament, but to leave all their 
 
 Goods 
 
part n. %$% Voyage of italy. i 2 * 
 
 Goods confifcatcd either to the Hofpitals of poor, 
 honed Girls, or to the maintaining cf thole 
 Guards, that are to watch over their deport- 
 ments ? If thefe Punishments beth of Body,Soul , 
 and Honour, be inflifted upon whores in Rome, as 
 they are, do not urge any more, that Whores 
 ! are not punilhed in Rome, nor difcountenanced. 0 l- a. 
 But why doth not the Pope punilh them home, * >c L 0 
 and root them quite out, by banifhment? 
 
 This hath been attempted by divers Popes, and Anfm 
 namely by Pius Quintus of happy memory (as 
 Thuanus in his hiftory writes) but feeing greater 
 inconveniences, and greater Sins arofe upon it, Pru- 
 dence, which is the Salt that mull feafon all mo- 
 ral A 61 ions, thought it nht fit to carry on that ri- 
 gor 5 nor yet allow of Fornication neither. So 
 that all the permiflion of Whores in Rome that 
 can colorably be imagined is only a not Puddl- 
 ing of them in all rigor *, and even that too, for 
 a good end ; and to hinder greater Evils. 
 
 But the Pope being both a Temporal and an 0o i e ®* 
 Ecclefiaftical Superior, is bound, in. my Mind$ to 
 break through all reports, and f ettle Innocencyin 
 the World. 
 
 It’s Zealoufly fpoken-and Iwifhhe could do it; 
 
 | but difficilem rem of t as ^generis hufnani inmeentiam, 
 hewifhetha hard thing who wijheth for the Inm- senca 
 \ cency of Mankind , faith a Wifeman. And if 
 Princes fometimes do not punilh Fa&ious SubjcSs, 
 when they fee that the punilhing of them would 
 pull the whole State to pieces over their heads, and 
 put the whole Kingdom in danger, as it did in 
 Henry the Thirds time in France , upon his can- 
 ling of the Dukepf Quife to be killed in Blots i 
 
 I i if 
 
i go C^C Of ITALY. Part II. 
 
 if Generals of Armies take no notice of fome 
 treacherous Commander, who is univcrfally be- 
 loved by the Soldiers ; left the punifhing of one 
 Man, lcofe them the affeftion of the whole Ar- 
 my, as we faw lately in the cafe of Lubmirshy 
 (how truly guilty I know not) and fome years a - 
 go I remember, in the cafe of fVaIftein 3 whole Pu- 
 nifhment had almoft undone the Emperor : why 
 may not the Pope, without approving the Sin of 
 Whores, prudently vyave the puniftiing of it with 
 all Rigor, when he lees that fuch rigor would 
 caufe greater diforders in that hot Nation, and in 
 that City where all nations feem to club Vices,as 
 in c. 8. Viitues ? Hence learned Alulenfis , a great Divine 
 /. i . Keg. faith ; Lecet leges human* aliqua mala permit t ant 
 non pmiendo , nullum tamen malum per mitt unt fta- 
 tuendo. 
 
 But the Pope Ihould not govern according ei- 
 ther to humane Policy, or humane Laws and Ex- 
 amples. 
 
 You pretend Zeal, but you would do well to 
 take her lifter Prudence with her, as our Saviour 
 did; who when he heard his Difciples defiring him 
 to let them call down Fire from Heaven upon 
 Luke 9. the criminal Samaritans , anfwered them calmly, 
 you know not of what Spirit you are . Nay doth 
 rot God himfclf, who being able to punilh all 
 criminal Perfons, and root them quite out of the 
 World, fufter both his Sun to Rife and fhine up- 
 on Sinners, and Sinners to offend in this Sunlhine, 
 vj T f 0t and often by it ? Hence St. "Thorns faith much 
 2*. 2. 4.-10. to my purpofe : Humamm regimen derivator a 
 an. 11 dn divim regiminei d ipf/mdelet imitaru Dem autem 
 cor pore. quamvis 
 
 Object. 
 
 A/ifw. 
 
Part II. WtyW Of ITALY. 1 3 1 
 
 quamvis fit Omnipotents , ac fimrne bonm , permit - 
 tit tamen aliqua mala fieri inuniverfo , qua prohibe- 
 - re poffet ; ne m / ublatis , major a bona toller entur^ 
 vel major a mala fequerentur. Humane Govern-* 
 ment is deriv'd from Divine Governments and ought 
 to imitate it. Now God although he be A mighty , 
 and highly good , , yet he permits Evils to be done in 
 the Worlds which he could hinders left by taking a- 
 way them , greater Goods Jhould be taken arrays or 
 \ greater Evils Jhould follow . But I wade too far 
 in this puddle : vet remember who thruft me 
 I into its and you’ll pardon me. 
 
 Behind the Church and Convent of the afore- Su s g ve , 
 faid Penitents, (lands the Church of San Silve- groin Ca* 
 ftro in capites io called from the Fixture of our pete* 
 Saviours Head and Face, which our Saviour 
 himfelf made by miracle, and lent to Abagams 3 
 " King of Edejfa ; as you may read at length in 
 BaroninSs and in Bofiim in his rare Book called Ro- 
 ma Soterranea « Now this Picture is kept here in 
 this Monaftery ; and with great Probability, fee- 
 ing it was here that divers Greeks Monks, driven 
 our of their Country by Conftantine Caprommm i 
 for the defence of Sacred Images, w r ere entertain- 
 ed by the Pope Paul the firft ; and its very likely 
 that thefe good Men brought with them this fa- 
 mous Picture of our Saviour to fave it from the 
 fury of the Incomclafis. 
 
 Returning from hence into the Corfo again, I 
 went to fee there the Colorna d Antoninas the Cofonnd 
 great Pillar of' Antoninus the Emperor, it’s built A^tonUx 
 jufdike that of Trajan deferib’d above. It was 
 I i 3 built 
 
132 wage Of ITALY. Part II. 
 
 built by Mar cm Aurelim Antoninus the Emperor 
 in honour of his Father Antomus Pirn- Its all 
 of white Marble, engraven without with a Baffo 
 relieuo from top to bottom, containing the memo- 
 rable aftions of M. Aurelim. Its 175 foot highland 
 hath in it 20 6 Stairs which lead up to the top of it, 
 and 5 6 little Windows giving light to thofe 
 Stairs : and yet this high Pillar was made of 28 
 Stones of Marble. The Carving that is upon it 
 contains the brave Actions of Marcus Aurelim o- 
 ver the Armenians , Parthians 9 Germans , Wan- 
 dais , and Sarmats^ or Polonians^ but age hath fo 
 defac’d thefe Bajfi relieui that it is hard to deci- 
 pher them. He that’s curious to know them may 
 buy them in the printed Cuts fold in Borne. Up- 
 on the top of this Pillar ftands mounted the Statue 
 in Brafs guilt, of St. /W, fet up here by Sixtm 
 Quintus . From the top of this Pillar I had a 
 perfeft view of Borne ^ and of almoft all the fe- 4 - 
 rhe [even yen Hills upon which it is built, and are within 
 Rome, the Walls : which are thefe. 
 
 Mons ca- i - The Captohn Hill, where now Ara Cceli 
 pitolinus. ftands, and the Confervatorio . 
 
 a.The Palatin Hill, I could not fee becaufe it 
 Palatmus, ft tltl ds behind the former.lt was fo called from the 
 Emperors Pallacethat ftood upon it. 
 
 Av minus. 3. The Aventine Hill fo called from Aventi - 
 #^,Kingof Alba> buried here where now St. Sabi* 
 nas is. 
 
 Cceli ur 4 4. The Cilian Hill beginning at St. Gregor ies^ 
 
 and running to St. John Laterals. 
 
 5. The Efqmline Hill, Exq Alims quafi excubi - 
 riM UtU ' nm * kecaufe th e nightly Watch and Guard 
 
 upon it. Here ftands St. Mary Majors . 
 
 6 . The * 
 
Part 1 ^ borage Of ITALY. 133 
 
 6 . The Viminal Hill, fo called .from Vi- VimmUu 
 minay that is, Often : wherewith it was anciently 
 covered. Here hands the Therm* Viocletiani , and 
 the ViUaJHmtalto. 
 
 , T^ The Quinnal Hill fo called from the Tern- Quirindtis , 
 pie of Quirims , or Ro^^/«A 5 which hood upon it. 
 
 Here now hands MontecavaHo. Thefe were the 
 fevenantient Hills of R.0*^, to which were added 
 three more, to wit 5 the Janie ule hill, fo called, 
 from James buried here. Here hands St. Petra ^niculus, 
 Montano . 
 
 The Vatican hill, fo called from the Vatic inati- y atianus 
 om and Soothlayings made here. Sc. Pefcn Church atc n \ 
 hands now upon it. 
 
 The Pincian hill, now called Montrinit a- De- j>- mcius or 
 fcending from hence I went to the Pazzirellay hortuorum. 
 where they keep Madmen and Fools ; and faw The Paz- 
 there hrange variety of humors in Follv: yet zorella. 
 
 I was pleafed to fee with what Charity ancf Care 
 thole poor Men were tended there. 
 
 From hence I hept to conlider in the Piazza 
 diPietra , the row of curious Pillars which a- 
 dom’d the Bafilica of the Emperor Antoninus y 
 who had hisPallace here, and his Form. 
 
 Then turning by little unfrequented Streets, I T ^ e Ro . 
 came to the Roman Colledg belonging to the Je- man coU 
 fuits. Me- 
 
 lt’s a fair Building, and hands conveniently for 
 Concourfe of Scholars from all Parts. Here I 
 law the Schools and Gallery of famous Athana • % a 
 fius Kerkeriws , full of pretty Curiofities and Ex- 
 periences, both Mechanical , Mathematical and 
 Hydraulic al : yet in my Opinion, its far lhortof 
 Canonico Set tala's Gallery in Milany or Monfiewr 
 Ii 3 Servieri 
 
If 4 CJ)e Of ITALY. Part II. 
 
 14 Miner- 
 
 %)X* 
 
 Servers in Lyons. Hcre>s alfo a fair Library hav- 
 ing no fault in it but the common fault of mod 
 Libraries, to wit, Locks and Keys to it. Good 
 Books fhould be as common as the Sun, feeing 
 they are the lights of our Minds, and made pub- 
 lick by the Prefs : and I cannot but pitty a Book, 
 that is imprifoncd and lock-d up in a Library 5 
 by faying unto it : Odijli claves & grata figilla 
 Pane is oftendi gemis , Lx communia Imdat. 
 In fine, I faw here the Apothecaries Shop, where 
 a Lay-Brother makes excellent Roman Treacle, 
 and other odoriferous Diftillations of Sovereign 
 Virtue. The Church belonging to this Colledg 
 is defign’d to be a noble thing, but it’s but half 
 built, for want of a whole Founder. 
 
 From hence I went to the Dominicans Con- 
 vent, called La Minerva , bccaufe irs built upon 
 the place where antiently flood the Temple of 
 Minerva. Hence alfo the Church is called San- 
 ta Maria [up a Miner v am : in this Church I faw 
 many neat Tombs, as thofe of Leo the X, and 
 Clement the VII, both Popes of the houfe of 
 Medic es: they hand in the Qjire^ and are 
 
 neatly wrought by that great Artift Baccio Bandi- 
 nelli. Then the Tomb of Cardinal Pimentel'i , 
 a modern Cardinal. The Tomb of great Car- 
 dinal Mgrona^ Legate for the Pope in the Coun- 
 cil of Trento and a Man who had been thirteen 
 times Legatees a Latere . Here alfo lye buried the 
 Afhes of Egidio Fofc aria , Bifhqp of Modena , cal- 
 led in the Council of Trent , Lumnare Majus, 
 The Tomb of a Lady of the Family of the 
 Rrggi, is very neat for the new manner of (plead- 
 ing fas I may fay, and as you would think) of 
 
 black 
 
Part ii. woyaw of italy. i 3 5 
 
 black Marble upon another colored Marble ^ 
 and both of them upon a round Pillar. Here 
 on the Gofpel fide of the high / ltar ftandeth a 
 Statue of our Saviour, made by Michel Angelo , 
 of white Marble ; a rare piece. At the Entrance 
 of the great door of this Church, lies buried,un- 
 der a plain flat Stone, "Thomas a Vio Cae tarns 
 St. Thomas of Aqturts Second, his Brother in Re- 
 ligion, his Name-lake, his learned Commenta- 
 tor, and only not he. Out of humility he 
 would not be buried within the Church, but out 
 of it. In the 5acrifty of this Church, I law the 
 Chappelof Katherine of Siena ^ and this Chappel 
 was once her very Chamber in Sum : Cardinal 
 Antonio Barberim , Proce&or of this Order, cauf- 
 ed it to be transferred hither from Siena. Her 
 Body lyeth under the Altar of rhe Rofary in this 
 Church. 
 
 From the Minerva I went to Saint Andrea del - ^.Andrea 
 la Valle , a fine Church belonging to the Theatins. ■ n!!e : 
 
 It’s built upon the place where the Theater of Pom- 
 fey flood, antiently ; and where, in latter times, 
 flood the Pallace of the Family of the Pinlomi - 
 ni ; and perchance this was the reafon why two 
 Popes of that Family, to wit, Pius Sec undus, and 
 Pius Ter tins are now buried in this Church. The 
 Cupola was painted by Cavalier Lanfranco ; the 
 three Corners under the Cupola , and the Tribune 
 are of the hand of Domenichini. The neat Chap- 
 pel of the Barherini , made by Pope Urban the 
 VIII, while he was but yet Cardinal, is built up- 
 on the very place where St. Sebaftian was beaten 
 and thrown into a Sink after he had been fhot. 
 
 There had been formerly a little Church built 
 I i 4 upop 
 
1$6 Cfce menage Of ITALY. Part II, 
 
 upon this place, and oyer this Sink, but Sixtus 
 Qu'ntivs gave leave it fhould be pulled down, up- 
 on condition a Chapel of the new defigned Church 
 fhould be built in place of it. In fine, take all this 
 Church together, and it is one of the neateft 
 Churches ("except the Bafilica ) that are in Rome> 
 being of the Architecture of Maderna. 
 
 In the Pia^a^ or rather the Street which goes 
 before this Church, lived not long ago, Pietro 
 Tmro della Valle , that ingenious R man Gentleman, who 
 della ralle. J iav £ L g fpent great means in Travelling, hath 
 left us three Volumns in Quarto of his curious 
 relations of Voyages. In this houfe here he had 
 three whole Mummies with their Coffins or Cafes 
 painted antiently, ad adorned with divers Hiero- 
 glyphics. He fpent much Money in buying many 
 other rarities, which he kept after here. 
 
 Behind this Church lived, when I firft was ac- 
 quainted with Rome, another great Virtuofo and 
 c&v&ih Gentleman of Rome , I mean the ingenious Cava* 
 j>o\xo^ ^er Pczz-o , with whom I was brought acquaint- 
 ed, and faw all hisRarieties, his curious Pictures, 
 Medals, Bajji Yelieui. , his excellent Bgoks of the 
 rareft things in the World, which he caufed to 
 be Painted, Copied, and defign’d out with great 
 Colt. 
 
 The Vail ice ^ rom hence I wentto the Pallace of the Duke 
 ofmt- Ce MAtlhei) where I faw many good Pictures and 
 tjiei. Statues, efpecially that long Picture reprefenting 
 fully the manner of Clement the VIII his going 
 from Rome to take poffeffion of Ferrara . 
 
 Thence falling in at St. Carlo in Cate nan : , a 
 The Can- neat round Church , I went to the Cancel- 
 ceijaria.* hria. This Pallace was built of the Stones 
 
 * of 
 
Part ii. c$e borage of italy. i 37 
 
 of the Califeo^by Cardinal Riant. The chief thing 
 Ifaw in it was the Gallery of Pictures, of Cardi- 
 nal Barkrin^ who being Vic e-Cbancellor, liveth 
 always in this Pallace to exercife his Charge the 
 better. 
 
 This Pallace looksinto the Church of San Lo- San Loren, 
 renzo in Gamajo , a Collegiate Church. Under *° in Da - 
 the high Altar repofeth the Body of St. Gama- mafo * 
 fun Pope. The Walls of the Body of the 
 Church are rarely painted with the Hiftorv of St. 
 
 Laurence. 
 
 Not far from hence flands the Pallace of Far - The Wallace 
 nefi belonging to the Duke of Tama. Before °/ Farnefi * 
 it hands a noble Piazza with two rare Foun- 
 tains in it. The Pallace it felf is one of the beft 
 in Rome, or elfewhere. It makes an Ifle, that is, 
 it hath no houfes joyning to it. The form of it 
 is lquare , and it hath, in the midft of every 
 fquare, a great door, letting you into the Court, 
 
 This Court is built upon Pillars and Arches ; 
 with a fair open Gallery above , letting you into 
 feveral appartiments. In this Court I faw the 
 famous Statue of Hercules , leaning upon his Club,, 
 which was found in the iCherme of Antoninus Ca- 
 racalla : One of the Legs is modern, the reft old 
 and made by, Olyco an Athenian , as the Greek 
 words upon it told me. 
 
 There is another Statue of Hercules oppofite to 
 it, and juft like it,but not fo good, being but a Co- 
 py of the former. The other Statues here of 
 the two Flora's , the two Gladiators and others, 
 are excellent peiees. Mounting up the great flairs 
 to go into the Chambers and open Gallery, I 
 faw the curious ftatue of the Boy and the Dol- 
 
 phin; 
 
I 3 8 ©opge Of ITALY. PartIL 
 
 phin ; And at the door of the great Hall , the 
 flatues of two Parthian Captive Kings. Entring 
 into that Hall, I met prefendy with the rare fta- 
 The statue tue of Alexander Farnefi , Duke of Parma , tram- 
 cf Alexan- pi£ n g U p 0n t wo proftrate flatues , reprefenting 
 ^cr arne- j| erc jy an( j Rebellion ; while Fame Crowns him. 
 All thefe four feveral Perfons are of white Mar- 
 ble. and of one entire hone. Its pity that fuch 
 a ftatue Hands not in fome more publick place, 
 to teach Men to beware of the Mother and the 
 Daughter , Herefie and Rebellion ; and {hew 
 them what long Hands Kings have. In the fame 
 Hall I faw the two excellent ftatues of Charity 
 and Plenty, in cumbent poflures ; and they are 
 the Fellows to thofe two flatues which adorn the 
 Tomb of Paulm Ter tins, the raifer of this Fa- 
 mily, in St. Peters Church. Round about this 
 Room alfo, Hand a world of Hatues of Gladia- 
 tors 5 Handing with their Swords in their hands, 
 and in feveral poflures , upon their guard. In 
 the next Chamber I faw rare Figures, contain- 
 ing lome aftions of Pa nlm Tertim ; and they are 
 of the hand of Salviati and Federico Zuccari. 
 There is alfo the Picture of Luther difputing 
 with Cajetan ; and a Pifture of the four Latin 
 Doctors of the Church, St. Hierome^ St, Ambrose , 
 St. jiugujiin and St. Gregory , of the hand of Per- 
 domnu In another Chamber , a world of an- 
 cient flatues of Philofophers and Poets : As Eu- 
 ripides^ Plato f PoJJidonim , Zeno y Seneca , Dioge- 
 nes , Pacchm , Meleager and others : Another 
 Room full of Pictures of choice hands, and a 
 curious Table of Pietre commeffe about twelve 
 Foot long and five wide. Then the rare Gallery 
 
Part II. voyage of italy. 
 
 of flames, with the Roof of it painted moft ad- 
 mirably, by the ravifliing hand of great Hunibal 
 Caraccio , and containing the reprefentation of the 
 loves of the Heathen Gods and Goddeffes. This 
 Painting may be compared, if not preferred, be- 
 ; fore all the Galleries of Rome or Europe^ and the 
 very cuts of it in Paper Pi&ures, lold at the Sta- 
 tioners fhop, are moft admirable and worth buy- 
 ing. In the fame Gallery alfo ftands the incom- 
 parable flame cf Apollo , in a flint ftone. Here 
 is alfo a curious Library, in which , befides the 
 curious Books, are many rare pieces of minia- 
 ture, and rare Pictures of Raphael and "Titian , 
 and divers excellent defigns of the fame TLifhael> 
 and of Michel Angelo • that efpecially of his 
 Judgment. Returning again through the fame 
 Rooms, I could not but gaze again at the flame 
 of my favorite Hem , Alexander Farnefi , and 
 began at laft to think that I was miftaken , even 
 now when I faid, that Hercules his flattie flood in 
 the Court below ; for upon better refleftion, I 
 find no ftatue in the Pallace to refemble Hercules 
 fo much, as this of Alexander of Farma ; of whom 
 I mjay fay, as Sulla (aid of Opr, In mo C<e[are y 
 multi funt Marii : In one Alexander of Parma, 
 there are many Herculefes. 
 
 Then mounting up into an appartiment over 
 the former, I faw divers Chambers exquifitely 
 furnifhed with Pictures and leffer Statues. In the 
 long Gallery there are divers rare pieces, of the 
 hand of C araccio . In the other Rooms many 
 ancient curious things, as an ancient piece of Pain- 
 ting, found m Adrians Villa , and made fifteen 
 hundred years ago; another ancient Pifture of 
 
 Eugenm 
 
140 aio^age Of ITALY. Part II, 
 
 Eugenim the IV. dudying, and St. Bernard (lan- 
 ding by him. A rare defign of Vajfari repre- 
 fenting a Town in Flanders, taken by Alexander 
 Farneju Michael Angelo's true Pidture* The Ve- 
 nus of Michael Angelo . The little old Picture 
 of our Lady, and St. John Baptift in a fmall Mo- 
 faick work. A Crucifix in Ivory of Michael 
 Angelo's making. The defign , or rather the 
 perfeft model of the Bridge thrown over the 
 Sceld, by which Alexander Farneji took Antwerp . 
 A great Cabinet of Medals , with a world of o- 
 ther rarities, too long to be related, but never 
 enough to be feen. 
 
 The famous Then defending into a little back Court, I 
 
 Bull. faw there the famous Toro . It is a flatue of a 
 great Bull, to whofe Horns, a Rope being tyed 
 at one end, and at the other endot it a Womans 
 hair, two lufty Fellows are driving to pu(h this 
 Bull from a promontory, into the Sea below,and 
 the Woman together with him, to make her a- 
 way. The dory is known, and it is of Amphion 
 ana Txtws, who to revenge their Mother Antiope , 
 for the wrong done her by D tree (who had got 
 Idem King of Thebes , to repudiate Antiope , for 
 to marry herj took this Vine, and tying her to 
 a Bulls Horns, threw them both, the Bull and 
 the Woman into the Sea. The Bull, the two 
 Brothers, the Woman, a little Boy, and a Dog, 
 are all cut out of one Marble done. The fnaf- 
 fling Fellow that keeps this Bui, or rather, whom 
 this Bull keeps, will tell you another dory of this 
 Statue through the Nofe : But feeing he fells his 
 dory as well as tells it, you had better give him 
 a Julio betimes, to be rid of him, than hear a- 
 nother long and new fable. Go- 
 
Part II. €3)0 ®O1>8g0 Of ITALY. 141 
 
 Going from hence into the great Piazza again, 
 
 I flept into the houfe of the Signori Pighini , 
 which (lands over againfl: the Pallace of Farnefi; 
 to fee two Statues, the one of Venm % the other 
 of Adonis ; both ancient ones, and fo rarely made, 
 that the Earl of Arondel , late Lord Marfhal of 
 England^ offered twelve Thoufand Crowns for 
 them, but was refufed. 
 
 Palling from hence towards the Pallace of Car- 
 dinal Spada. I entered into it, and there faw ma- 
 ny exquilite Pictures. 
 
 Thence I went to Ponte Sifto , and from thence Ponte sifa 
 to the Hofpital of the Trinity, which receives ^ &°fpt- 
 all Pilgrims coming to Borne) for three days , Holyrrinf- 
 and treateth them plentifully. I confefs, I went ty % 
 often hither, and as often admired the wonder- 
 ful charity which is done here daily ; but efpe- 
 cially in the holy week in Lent, by the Confra- 
 ternity of this Hofpital) of which, moll are Gen- 
 tlemen. Here Noblemen, Bilhops and Cardi- 
 nals walh the Pilgrims feet, and then ferve them 
 at Supper in'the long Refeftory, where there are 
 frequently, in the holy week,' four hundred Pil- 
 grims at once at Table. 
 
 Returning from thence I went to St. Girolamo S.Girclmo 
 della Charita , a Church and Houfe of good ^ ch ^ 
 Priefls, and mod cf them Gentlemen, living of ma * 
 their own expences , yet all in Community. S. 
 
 Philipp Fieri inftituted them , and lived among 
 them thirty years. In the Church I faw, upon 
 the high Altar, an excellent Pifture of St. Hie - 
 rme- 
 
 Hard by (lands the Englifh Colledge, once an rheEngliJb 
 Hofpital for the Englifh, and built by the En- Colledge . 
 
 glilh 
 
142 wage Of ITALY. Part fl. 
 
 glifti Merchants in R ome, to receive Englifh Pil- 
 grims in 5 becaufe a poor Englilh Woman had 
 been found worryed by Dogs, in the night , for 
 want ot a Lodging. In the Church of this Col- 
 ledge lies buried, Cardinal Alan z, the laft Englilh 
 Cardinal of our Nation. 
 
 rhe ckiafa From hence I went to the Chief a Nuova^ be- 
 
 Nuova. longing to the good Priefts of the Oratory. This 
 is one of the ncatdff Churches in R owe and the 
 beftferved. Its all painted in the roof, by the 
 rare hand of Pietro di Cxrtona , and richly .guilt. 
 Here I faw the neat Chappel of St. Philipp Neri , 
 a primitive Saint in all things but time. He was 
 the Inftitutor of this holy Company of Priefts , 
 who are Religious Men in all things but in vows, 
 and name. The Chappel and Altar of this great 
 Saint, is on the Gofpcl fide of the high Altar , 
 his true Pi&ure there, was made by Guido Rheni. 
 Under this Altar, in a lower Chappel, or Vault, 
 lyetli the body of this Saint, in an Iron Chef} : If 
 you defire to know his Merits and Life , ask all 
 Rome which lately faw them , and daily feels 
 them. On the other fide of the high Altar with- 
 in the Rails, lies buried Cefar Baronins^ once a 
 Pricft of this houfe, and forced, after much re- 
 ludtancy, to be made Cardinal by Clement the 
 
 Cardinal VHI.He deferved this honour in the opinion of all 
 U ~ Men, for having written his incomparable Ecclefia- 
 flical Hiflory ; and if Hercules , for helping Atlas 
 to bear up Heaven one day only, was feigned by 
 Poets to have deferved to be taken up to Hea- 
 ven; I may juftlv fay, that Baronins deferved 
 well the purple of the Church,, for having alone 
 born up the catife of the Church of God, a- 
 
Part n. Cfce dotage of italy. 143 
 
 gainft a whole Troop of Centuriators. For my 
 part, I reckon it among my felicities, to have li- 
 ved after Baronins , and to have fpent a good 
 part of three years ftudy, in reading his facred 
 Annals , which coft him ten times three years 
 ftudy in writing* And here 1 could enter into a 
 lair field of his Praifes $ and like the Eagle, in 
 the ftory, having nothing elfe to give him* give 
 him a Feather , that is one call of my Pen; 
 but that I write of Countrys now, and not of 
 Men ; and that his full Praifes may be included 
 in thofe three Ihort Encomiums ; Ec define Codes ; 
 
 Ccefa/ Chrijlianus * Or bis Locupletator. 
 
 The houfe of thefe good Priefts deferves alfo to 
 be feen, for the Libraries fake, which is one of the 0 
 bed: in Rome, and for the great Oratories fake* r >. 
 where there is every Sunday and Holy-day in 
 Winter at Night, the bed Mufic in the World. 
 
 From hence I went to the Church de la Pace , a 
 neat Church, and adorned with excellent Paint- U Act ' 
 ing and Statues. Here many famous Painters 
 have fignaliz’d their Memories, as Perttzza of Si* 
 ene, Vajaria , Lavinia , a Lady of Bolognia , Fon- 
 tana, Gentelefchi , Cavalier Giofeppe , Rojji , and 
 Raphael Ur bin himfelf, who painted the Prophets 
 ana Sybils in the Chappel of Augujlino Chigi : 
 andfome think that he made the little Boys that 
 are fo well done. The Statues of St. Peter and 
 St. /Ware of the Hand of Michel Angelo. 
 
 Going from hence through the Street of the 
 Stationers , I came to Piazza di Pafquino , which 
 is thought to be the very Center of Rome. And 
 here I cannot forget Paj'quin himfelf, who forgets 
 no Man. This Paj'quin is an old broken Statue, Pafquin, 
 
 fomething 
 
144 C$e ffljoyage Of ITALY. Part it 
 
 fomething like -that of Hercules in the Belvedere , 
 defcribed above, and of fome rare Hand. And 
 becaufeit ftands near three or four Streets, where- 
 by to efcape when they have fixed the Libels , 
 jeering Wits fet up here , and father upon 
 poor Mejfer Pafquino^ their Satyrical Jefts, called 
 from him, Pasquinades ; which Morforiivs , ano- 
 ther Statue near the Capitol , ufeth to anfwer. 
 
 From hence palling on to the Church of S.Pan- 
 st. Panta- taleon^ belonging to the Fathers of the Scholl 
 Pi#. I was was willing to enter into it, and fee 
 it, becaufe four Hundred years ago it was a Col- ! 
 legiate Church, and polfeffed by Englijh Priefts, 
 as may appear by the Infcription upon a Bell I 
 which was call then. * 
 
 p . From hence I ftept into Pizza Navom, called I 
 
 Navona. hy corruption, from Piazza d y Agona^ becaufe i 
 
 this Piazza was anciently a Circus for Sports, and t 
 it was called Circles Agonalis. . In the midft of it i 
 anciently flood a great Egyptian Pillar, with Fix- i 
 eroglyphics upon it ; and now of late it hath got- 
 ten another fuch Pillar fa up here by Pope I mo- « 
 
 d cent the X, with a rare Fountain ifluing forth at I 
 
 the Foot of it, and adorned with four great St a- J 
 tues of white Marble, reprefenting the four Parts v 
 of the World. In this place alfo ftands the 1 
 TheChunh new Church of St. Agnes , built upon the place i ! 
 of Agnes, where fhe was condemned to the Stews, This y 
 Church is built at the Coft of Frincepe PaMphilio , f 
 whofe Pallace joins upon it. This Pallace over- . i c; 
 looking the Piazza Navona, deferves not only a J v 
 glance of an Eye, but alfo an hours Infpe&iori i t( 
 The Palaz- within, I he Chambers are many and fair, and H 
 20 Pam- the great Hall a moft lovely Room, if Paintings '.m 
 P hilio - and 
 
Part IL C^c^age Of ITALY. 145 
 
 and variety of Pictures in Frames can make a 
 Houfc handfome. 
 
 In this Piazza I faw the Pallace of the Duke 
 of Braccino , of the houle of Or/ini, and that of 
 the Family of Torres. 
 
 The Spawfh Church here called St. J acorn *, JV.Jacomo 
 is not to be forgotten. Here lies buried in it da- 
 coniivs , a learned Critic for a Spaniard. The 
 Pidfure here in Oyl of San Diego is of Annibal 
 Caraccio. 
 
 Over againfl: the Back-door o f this Church The Sap ^ 
 (lands the Sapienza, a fair Colledge, where the en ^ 
 publick Lettures are read. This Colledg was 
 begun by Engenius the IV, but much beautified 
 of late with handfome Shools, and a neat Churchy 
 by Urban the V III, and a public Library by 
 Alexander the VII* VVe have had in my time 
 two Englifhmn that were Readers here ; Do&of 
 Hart , and Doftor Gibbs, a noble Cefarean hau- 
 te at Poet, zn&xhz Horace of this Age. 
 
 From neiice parting through the Piatta Ma- 
 dama, and before the Pallace of the Grand D uca, 
 
 I went to St. Lewis his Churchy belonging to the St. Lewis* 
 French Nation. Ips an handlome Church, and 
 well ferved with French Priefts. There’s alfcr an 
 Hofpital belonging to that Church and Nation. 
 
 In the Church I found, upoh a Pillar on the left, 
 hand, the Pi&ure of great Cardinal Dojfai , a 
 French-man , whom I may juftly call Great, be- 
 caufe he was both a great States-man, and yet a 
 very good Man ; that is, he was a great Servant 
 to his King; and yet a great Servant of God. 
 
 His rare Letters (hew the one, and his Life writ- 
 ten by Du Verdier (hews the other. Here lies 
 
 K k alfo 
 
m 6 cije ©otage of italy. part n. 
 
 alfo burieddn the middle almodof this Church, 
 an £^-//^Prieftof great Vertue, by name More* 
 of the Family of great Sir Thomas More $ and 
 Heir of that Family, if I miftake not. His 
 younger Brother and he driving whether of them 
 Ihoyld be Pried, it was his prerogative of Age, 
 which making him to be four and twenty before 
 his Brother, made him enter into Orders before 
 him, and become Pried, leaving the Edate to 
 his Brother. It was he that fetus out the Life 
 of Sir Thomas More , in Englifh : at lad retiring 
 toRometo be Agent for his Brethren the Glergv, 
 having e nded this Bufinefs there happily ( which 
 was the : procuring a Catholic Bifhcp ) he ended 
 his Life fo too, and was buried here by his own 
 Choice. 
 
 From hence I went to the Pallaceof Jufliniani , 
 rheV allace which is hard by. Here I faw fo many Statues of 
 h eat hen Gods, and fuch Rooms full of 
 old Marble Feet of them, that you would almoft 
 Swear the Headien Gods, when they were banifh- 
 ed out of the Pantheon , had been committed hi- 
 ther as to a Prifon : or that fbme of the Ance- 
 dors of this Houfe had been Shoo-makers to the 
 old Gods, and therefore was obliged to have their 
 Lads and Meafures. For they had Gods of all 
 fizes, feeing (as Varro faith ) they had 30 ooo Gods, 
 a world of thefe Statues are yet feen in the Galle- 
 ry above, and in every Room in the Houfe, 
 which they clog, rather than adorn. And yet 
 fcarceoneof them but is a Palladium to this Fami- 
 ly ; and would portend its hidden ruin if aliena- 
 ted. For as I remember the old Prince Juftima- 
 m dying without Heirs Male, left this Man his 
 
 Heir 
 
Paftii. of Italy. 47 
 
 Heir, with this Provifo , that he fhould not fo 
 mucn as aleniateone Statue upon pain of forfeit- 
 ing the whole Houfe and Goods. Judg then whe- 
 ther he had not need to keep thefe Statues chain’d 
 up 5 as the "Tyrians did their Gods, in a Siege • or 
 whether the throwing of one of thefe Statues out 
 of the Window, would not be properly a throw- 
 ing the Houfe out of the Windows. Upon 
 which occafion I cannot omit to tell you how the 
 ancient Statues of R me were grown at Jaft to be CalAl.7* 
 fo many in number, that sCaJJiodore faith wit- 
 tily of them) pfteritat pene Varmpopidm urbi 
 dedit , mam natnra procreavit , Pofterity had 
 made almoft as many Men, by Art, in the City, 
 as were made bv iNature. And thefe Statues 
 grew to that excels too, that Marble ones werd 
 thought too vulgar ,aiid Gbld and Silver ones were 
 erefted by riotous Men, who fcorned to be like 
 others in any thing but in beitig Mortal. But to 
 return again to this Houfe, I cannot leave it with- 
 out minding you of fome rare Pictures, of Ti- 
 tian and other prime Matters, which are fhown 
 in the Gallery above; efpecially the rare Pifture 
 of St. John the Evangelift of the hand of Rapha- 
 el Vrbin ; and thatot our Lady and St. Joseph 
 in another Room, which is a rare Copy of that 
 famous Pi&ure in the Cloifter of the Ann rnciata 
 in Florence, of Andrea del Sarta . 
 
 From hence I went to the Church of St. Eufla- st. Eiifa- 
 chiOy having feen in the way the goodly Ruins of chio. 
 the Therm# of Alexander Severn*. In the Porch 
 of this Church I faw an Infcription in a Stone, 
 which told me that Alexander of Parma was 
 Chrittened here with his Brother, being Twins 
 Kk 2 This* 
 
148 WQW&Z Of ITALY. Part It 
 
 This Church hands in the place where St. Eufta* 
 chins with his Wife Theopijla , and his Sons Aga- 
 fitus and Theojiftus , were put into a Brazen Bull 
 and martyred by the brazen Heart of Trajan, 
 whom Eitftachius had ferved twice as General of 
 his Armies, and gained him as many Vifto- 
 ries. 
 
 The Rot on- Fiona hence I went to theR otonda, otherwife cal- 
 da or Van- led anciently the Pantheon fee aufeit was dedicated 
 tbeon. to all Gods. This is a bolder piece of Architect- 
 ure than Men think* For whereas other Vaults 
 are ftrengthened and made good by being 
 fhut up clofe at the top, and in the Center of the 
 Vault, which hinders the Vault from fhrinking ; 
 here this great maffive Vault is left wide open at 
 the top, with a hole above three yards wide in 
 Diameter. Indeed Sebafiianus Berlins , an experi- 
 enced Man in Fabrics, thinks this Church to be 
 the Unic example of perfeft Architecture $ and 
 Pliny in his time placed it among the rareft 
 Works that were then extant.. It hath no win- 
 dow in it, nor any other light, but what comes 
 in at the wide hole mentioned above. Anciently 
 it was covered with Brazen Tiles, and thofe guilt 
 too, as Lip fins thinks ; but now it’s covered 
 with great flat Stones. It’s an Hundred and forty 
 Foot high, and as many broad : and yet it hath 
 no pillars to bear up that great Roof. Indeed it 
 hath thru ft all the Pillars out of doors, and 
 makes them wait in the Porch ; where there are 
 thirteen great Pillars all of one piece, each one 
 53 Foot high, and Fix in Diameter, all of a gra- 
 nite or fpcckled Marble. The Capitelli of thefe 
 Pillars are the beft income, of Corinthian order. 
 
 Here 
 
Part 11 tmopage of italy. 149 
 
 Here is the Tomb of tjie incomparable Painter, 
 Raphael Vrbin. 
 
 Illehic eft Raphael, timuit quo fofpite vinci. 
 
 Rerum magna Parens , & moriente moru 
 
 In this Temple flood anciently the famous Mi- 
 ner va made by Phidias of which Hiftories ring. 
 
 T here alfo was placed the Statue of Penmj.w whole 
 Ear that incomparable Pearl of Cleopatra 
 hung, which upon a riotous Wager with M. An- 
 tony ( whether of them ftould make the mod 
 coftly Supper ) (he was going to throw into a glals 
 of Vinegar, to macerate it (as (he had done ano- 
 ther before.) and drink it up : But M- Antony 
 flopping her hand, and confefling himfelf over- 
 come, the Pearl faith < PIiny :) was put in the Ear of 
 
 ■ Venm in the Pantheon . In the round holes over 
 the Altars, were fet thofe Heads of the gods of 
 the Heathens, which are now feen in the Belvede- 
 re of the Maftchpre, This Temple and its Porch 
 were fo lined anciently with Brafs, that there was 
 enough of it to make divers great Cannons, by 
 Pope Urbans Command, and the great Canopy 
 with the four Pillars which adorn St. Peter's hign 
 Altar. And though the People and P aft quin , two 
 equally fenfelefs things, murmured much at the 
 
 ■ taking away of this Brafs, yet feeing the Panthe- 
 on receiv’d no damage thereby, and feeing it was 
 improv’d to that higth, that it became Eccleji <* 
 Ornamentum & Urbi Munimentum 9 the wifer fort 
 oi Men thought it well employed, and let the 
 
 i People and Malice talk. I had almoft forgot to 
 tell you that this Temple was made by Agrip^a 
 
I5P ®fje mw&t Of ITALY. Part II, 
 
 who had been thrice Conful^ as the words in the 
 Architrave of the Porch yet (hew. 
 
 Su Loren? o p rom hence I went through the Camp Marzo> 
 
 • n uclna ° unto the Church of St. Lorenzo in Luctna , which 
 is ferved by Cleric i Regolari Minoru It’s at) aci- 
 ent Church neatlv repaired of late, and the great- 
 eft Pariih Church in Lome. 
 
 From hence I went to fee the Pallace of Bur- 
 The vrthce ghefu which is hard by. This is one of the 116- 
 pfBurghefi. p a n accs £ n R me , p gives you a fair Broad- 
 fide of Windows, three Stories one over another; 
 and its Length is Prodigious. Mounting up to 
 the Chambers I found a fair open Gallery built 
 upon Arches and Pillars rquqd about the Court. 
 This Gallery lets you into feveral Appartments ; 
 and on that fide which overlooks the Piazza, I 
 faw a row of tenor twelve greatChambers, through 
 which I looked at once.In thefe Chambers and the 
 other Rooms I obferv’d thefe things. 1. Rich 
 Hangings, and over them rare Painting, made 
 by a Capucin Lay-Brother, The Hiftory of the 
 Queen of Sabot coming to vifit Salomon's Court, 
 and the rapt of the Sabines,, which ma^e this 
 Fregia over the Hangings, are fo rarely well done, 
 that Raphael and Michel Angelo would not have 
 mended them for Colors. 2. A great Cabinet 
 of Ebeny, fet with Hiftories caft in Gold, and 
 fet with rich Precious Stones, ins valued at 
 ed at threcfcore Thoufand Crowns. 3 - A rare 
 pifture of Hercules and Antem. 4. Raphael's own 
 Picture. 5. The laft Supper, by Titian. 6 . The 
 Terrafs and Garden, with Box, Knots and Foun- 
 tains of Water, all at the very top of the houfe, 
 and overlooking the Street , River, Meadows 
 
Part ii, cfce wage of italy. i 51 
 
 and Sc. Peters . 7. The little black Gallery of 
 Pictures, where among others I was fhewn the 
 Pictures of Martin Luther , Nicolas Macchiavely 
 and Ccefar Borgia ; the two laft great Corrupters 
 of Policy and manners. 8. Tne low cool Gal- 
 lery, full of Statues and Pi&ures, efpecially of 
 the Borghejian Family, That of Paulies Quintus 
 in a fmall Mofaik work is lcarce to bedifeover’d 
 from Painting : as alfo the affumption of our La- 
 dy in the fame work. There I faw alfo 'Titian's 
 own Picture, and the rare Crucifix made by Mi- 
 chel Angelo y fo to Life, that fome Men have. fa- 
 buloully given out that he drew it after a crucified 
 Man. 
 
 From hence I went to the Mauf oleum Augufti y Maufokum 
 or the Tomb of Auguftus C<*fiar y handing near Augufiu 
 St, Rocl(s Church in a place hard to be found out. 
 
 It was once one of the neateft Stru&ures in Rome. 
 
 And it was but fitting that the firft of the Empe- 
 rors fhould have an honourable Tomb ; and that 
 he who having found Rome built of Brick only, 
 had left it all of Marble, fhould have a marble 
 Monument ere£ted to him after his Death. . Vr~ 
 hem Lateritiam invent , marmoream relin- 
 quo : faid Auguftus. The Mauf oleum was around 
 Building of white Marble, going up with four smon. 
 Stories fet round with Pillars, and each Story 
 growing lefferand feffer, with green trees fet a- 
 bout every Story 5 having at the top of all the 
 Brazen Statue of Auguftus. It was two Hundred 
 and Fifty Cubits high. But now it’s much de- 
 faced, and we fee fomething of the greatnels of it, 
 but little of its Beauty. 
 
 Kk 4 
 
 Going 
 
I §2 
 
 ft. Ant. di 
 padua* 
 
 §\ Augu- 
 ftino. 
 
 Bibliotheca 
 Angelica . 
 
 Joachims 
 Prophecy 
 pf the 
 Turks. 
 
 St. Apollb 
 
 fixrtii 
 The Ger- 
 man Col - 
 
 leJgi 
 
 tie Pallet- 
 \o d> AU 
 
 aio^age of italy. Part 11. 
 
 Going from hence to the Church of St. Antony 
 of Padua belonging to the Poriughefi I faw the 
 Tomb of the great Canonift and Cafuift Fhavarre, 
 or Martin Afpelcuita , with his Statue in Buffo o- 
 ver it. This good Man hearing how his great 
 Friend Caranza was called to Rome to anfwer for 
 himfelf in Points of Doftrine, which he was fafly 
 accufed of, followed him thither of his own ac- 
 cord, to defend his caufe and clear his innocency, 
 and having done it, died here. 
 
 Near to this Church hands the Church and 
 Convent of the Auftin Friers . In the Church I 
 faw the Tomb of St. Monica , Mother to St. 
 Auguftin. Here allb lies buried Onufrius Panznnus 
 a Fryar of this Convent, learned in lacred Anti- 
 quities, and in the Hebrew Tongue. In the Con- 
 vent I often faw the neat Library, called Biblio- 
 theca Angelica , becaufe Angelas Kocca , a Bifhop 
 and Maher of the Popes Sacrifty , gave it at his 
 Death to hisCon vent j with anObligation of letting 
 it be open in the Mornings. 'There among many 
 cu rious Books , I remember to have feen there the 
 Prophefies of Joachim , where among other things 
 he faith, that the Turks fhall be overcome and 
 ruined by three Nations: by the French^ proper 
 bonos equos: by the Englifhjpropter boms marinarios : 
 and by the Venetians , proper bontm conjilium . 
 Thefe are his very words. 
 
 Near to the aforefaid Church hands the 
 Church of St. Apollinatbs , and the German Col- 
 ledge. Here the beh Singers of Rome meet com 
 hantlv. 
 
 Over againh this Church hands the Pallace 
 of the Duke of Altemps : In which I faw the great 
 : Hajl 
 
part II. C^e dotage Of ITALY. 153 
 
 Hall, and in it the triumph of Bacchus in a Bajfo 
 relievo cut in Marble, with exquifite Art. I faw 
 alfo here the reprefenration of a Town cut in 
 Wood 5 an ancient and curious piece. The Pi- 
 fture of our B. Lady, with her Son in her Arms, 
 valued at five Thou land Piftols 5 it is of Raphael's 
 Hand. The neat Library full of divers good 
 Manufcripts and other Books. In fine, the noble 
 Chappel with the Tomb of S.AnacletVopc under 
 the Altar with the Head of this Saint in the Sa- 
 : wifty-) enchafed in Silver, and fet thick with rich 
 I Stones. The rich ornaments here for the Church 
 Service, coft the Duke an Hundred and twenty 
 Thoufatid Crowns. 
 
 From hence in fine, I went to St. John Floren- Sm « ohn 
 j tins, a neat Church belonging to the Florentins , at Fiorentim 
 whofe coft it was built. Here is in one of the chunk . 
 Chappels the piftureof our Saviours Rcfurre&i- 
 on, made by Lanfranc , a rare piece. And be- 
 : ing lodged near this Church, I found that I had 
 wandered all over R ome^ and was now come again 
 to theBridgof St. Angelo ^v/heve I began my firft 
 days Journey through Rome. 
 
 But feeing that in fuch Towns as this, there is 
 always fomething to be feen after all, I made many 
 irregular excurfions up and down Rome^ to view 
 many things which I had not taken in my direft 
 way before : as fome Pallaces, Come rare Foun- 
 tains, divers Antiquities, ftudies of Virtutfiy and 
 the like, which I have been forc’d, for Methods 
 fake, to pafs over, yet becaufe there are whole 
 Books of all the Pallaces, Fountains, Statues and 
 Antiquities, fet forth in Cuts and Pi&ures, I re- 
 mit my Reader to them while I ask one queftioq. 
 
 ?• - Whers 
 
>54 
 
 TertuULiC 
 dc Speftae, 
 
 c. 10 . 
 
 Pctrarc, 
 In K$meel. 
 utriufqHe 
 Fort . 
 
 t&Opge Of ITALY, Part II. 
 
 Where are now chofe rare pieces of Antiquity 
 which Hiftories rather mention ? than we find now 
 in Rome ? as the Cymboum Mam ; the Gregoftafis ; 
 the Curia Hoftilia * the Golden Houfe oi Nero , 
 the Theater of Vompey, of which T ertullian faith/ 
 Pompeiws magnus jolo fuo theatro minor ; the 
 Form Nerv<£$ the Theater of Statilius Taurus 5 
 the Septiz.onium Seven, the Tower of Mecdems ; 
 the Htppodromus ; the Houfe of Gordiams ; the 
 Circus Flminius ; the Circus Maximus ; the Atri- 
 um Libertatis-y Scipio's Houfe; the Triumphal 
 Ajrch of A uguflus Csfar, of Vomitian > and a 
 World of other fuch rare buildings* whereby the 
 Romans thought to have eternized their memo- 
 ries ; if you ask for thefe things in Books* 
 you fhall find their names only , if you look for 
 them now in Rome, vou fhall find no marks at all 
 of them : which makes me cry out with Petrach 5 
 Crede mihi aim quam lagideis fundamentis eget glo- 
 ria, ut fit manfura : believe me true permanent glo- 
 ry ftands in need of other Foundations than thofe of 
 Stone . Hence Janus Vital i* an ingenious Italian 
 Poet* having obferv’d that all the old maffive 
 Buildings of Rome are moultered away* and that 
 Fluid Tyber only remains ftill* cries out with 
 this fweet Moral. 
 
 D ifee hinc quid poffit fortma ; immota labafeunu 
 
 Ftqu^perpetuo funt flutter a, manent. 
 
 But I cannot leave Rome without taking notice 
 of the Devotion* Mufic, Ceremonies, Shows, 
 Government, aiid the Inhabitants of this place : of 
 each of which I will give a touch* both for my 
 Travellers fake* and my Readers, And 
 
Part II. Otye Of ITALY, 155 
 
 And fird for the Devotion of Rome, I found Devotion 
 it to be very great and real in thofe places where in Rome * 
 the Qiarante Here and Stations are kept. For 
 all the year long the Qtarante Here go from one 
 Church to another, through all the Churches of 
 Rome j and there you (hall always fee a world of 
 devout People praying and meditating and hear- 
 ing the Sermons, and giving of Alms, and all 
 this with that profound refpeft and filence, with 
 that affiduity and concourfe , with that fervor 
 and zeal, that you need not ask where the Sta- 
 tion is, but only obferve where you fee the Peo- 
 ple flocking fo fad in the morning , and where 
 the Poor make the greated Hed ie and Lane. In 
 other Churches of Rome, upon their Feftival days 
 ( which happen aimed every day, in one place 
 or other) they have the belt Mufic can be got : 
 and though this feems to draw mens eares to the 
 Church, rather than their hearts $ yet when I 
 remember what elevated thoughts it breeds in 
 the mind ; and how innocently it detains men 
 from doing worfe , I cannot but place Church 
 Mufic among the a£h of devotion. 
 
 Now , as for this Mufic , it is the bed in the The Mufic 
 world, and in the bed kind, which is voices. For of R-ome, 
 my part, having read in a learned Author, that 
 the hating of Mufic is a fign of a foul quite out 
 of tune, and not right drung tor prededination $ 
 and that the Scythian King, who held the neigh- 
 ing of his Horfe, to be far better Mufic , than 
 the Pipe of famous Hum them ; was held for an 
 Afs himfelf ; I thought it both comely and law- 
 ful to love Mufic ; And being in a place where 
 the bed Mufic was , I frequented it often with 
 
 Angular 
 
1 55 €^e ffliopage Of ITALY. Part II. 
 
 Angular fatisfafition. Now the beft Mufick I 
 heard, was the Mufick of the Popes Chappel , 
 confifting of pure voices, without any Organ or 
 other Inftruments : Every finger here knowing 
 his part fo well, that they feem all to be Matters 
 of Mufick. Then the Mufick of the Chiefa No - 
 *ua 5 of S. Afollimris * upon St. Cecilies day in the 
 Church of that Saint, the Patronefs of Singers 5 of 
 the Oratory of St. Marcello every Fry day in Lent ; 
 of the JefuitSj during the Q uarante bore in Shrove- 
 tide ^ of every good Church of Nuns upon their 
 Patrons day ; efpecially that of the Nunns of 
 Camp Marz.o , where I heard often Ponfeca fing 
 fo rarely well, that fhe feemed to me, to cheer 
 up much the Church in its Combats ; and to 
 make the Church Militant , either look like the 
 Church T rimphant, or long for it. In a word, 
 whofoever loves Mufick, and hears but once this 
 of Rome, thinks he hath made a faving Journey 
 to Rome, and is well payed for all his pains of 
 coming fo far. 
 
 The cere . Having given my ears many a break-fatt up- 
 
 monies , on the Mufick, I gave my eyes many a Colla- 
 tion upon the Ceremonies of Rome , which were 
 chiefly thefe. The Ceremony of the Popes o- 
 pening of the Porta Santa of St. Peter's Church, 
 in the Jubily year. The Ceremonies of the Popes 
 Chappel, when he aflifts there, efpecially upon 
 Candelmzs day , Palm-f unday, Maunday-Tburfday , 
 8cc. The Ceremony of the Popes wafhing of 
 thirteen Pilgrims Feet 5 of his finging Mafs pub- 
 lickly in St. Peter's Church, upon St. Peter's day, 
 and other great days; the Ceremony of Beati- 
 fying and of Canonizing of Saints 5 the Ceremony 
 
iPart ii. €^e nonage of italy. 157 
 
 of his Creating new Cardinals, &: giving them their 
 Cap in pu bh’cConfiffor y,the Ceremony of the Mats 
 fung in Greek, and according to the Gred(rites,in the. 
 
 Church of the Greeks Seminary, upon the Fcall 
 of the Epifhany, and St. Athanafim his day; the 
 Ceremony of Baptizing the Jews ; with a world 
 of others. One Ceremony I was not unwilling 
 to mils in my five fevetal Voyages, becaufe it 
 always implies the death of a Spiritual Father* 
 i 1 mean, the Ceremony of a Sede Vac ante : And 
 of all the bad Compliments that ever I heard 
 made, I like none lb ill as that of a Noble Man 
 of Germany, who being asked by Pope Innocent 
 theX. whether he hath feen all the Ceremonies 
 : of Rome, anfwered, that he had feen all, but a 
 Sede Vac ante, as if he had faid ; Holy Father, I 
 have feen all the fine fights of Rome, but your 
 1 death. A horrible Tramontane compliment, which 
 put even the Pope himfelf to a fmile. 
 
 As for the Shows, I faw divers, both Sacred The shorn 
 I and Prophatie. As the whipping Proceflions in °f R ° me 
 the Holy Week. The great Proceflion from St. Sacre * 9 
 Marcello's Oratory, to StiPeteAs Church, upon 
 Maunday Thursday, in the Holy Year. The 
 Spanijh Proceflion, in Piazza Nawna, upon Ea- 
 fter-day in the Morning, in the Holy Year. The 
 I Proceflion of the Zitclle upon our Ladies day in 
 Lent . The Proceflion of the Priefts of the Ora- 
 ty upon Shrove Tuesday, to the feven Churches ; 
 with five or fix Thoufand perfons following ot 
 them, all whom they treat in an open field , gi- 
 i ving every one a couple of hard Eggs, and a flice 
 of jalfigia , with Bread and Wine. The feveral 
 Cavalcata's of the Pope and Cardinals. Th c Spa- 
 
 i 
 
IS8 
 
 Vrophane, 
 
 The Go- 
 vernment 
 of Rome. 
 
 mot age of ITALY. Part ft 
 
 nifh Cavalcata upon St. Peters Eve, when the Spa- 
 mfh Embaflador prefents the purfe of Gold, and 
 the (jennet The Girandola and fire works upon 
 St. Peter's Eve, and divers fuch like facred Tri- 
 umphs. 
 
 For the prophane Shows, I faw the folemn en- 
 tries of Embafladors, efpecially thofe of Obedi- 
 ence, where each Prince’s Embaflador drives to 
 out-vye the other , and by exceflive expences , 
 make their Maters greatnefs appear above that of 
 others. Their Cavalcata’s to Court upon their 
 public audience : Their reception in a public 
 confiftory : Their Audience of Leave are all 
 ftately. Then the curious Opera , or mu/ical 
 D ravmaUf recited with fuch admirable art, and 
 fet forth with fuch wonderful changes of Scenes , 
 that nothing can be more furprizing. Here I have 
 feenupon their Stages, rivers fwelling, and Boats 
 rowing upon them,waters overflowing their Banks 
 and Stage; Men flying in the Air, Serpents crawl- 
 ing upon the Stage, Hoitfes falling on the liiddain, 
 Temples&: Bofcos appearing, wholeT owns, known 
 Towns, ftarring up on the fuddain with Men 
 walking in the Streets ; the Sun appearing and 
 chafing away darknefs, fugar Plumbs fall upon 
 the Spe&ators heads like hail, Rubans flafh in the 
 Ladies faces like lightning, withaThoufand fuch 
 like reprefentations. In tine, the Carneval pomps 
 in the ftreets, exhibited by Noblemen , with 
 great coft and glory. 
 
 As for the Government of Rome , I found it 
 divided into two parts : The Government of the 
 City, and the Government of the Church. That 
 of the City is exaftly performed by a Gover- 
 nor 
 
pan II. tKOtagt Of ITALY. 159 
 
 nor (fome Prelate of great parts) conftituted by 
 the Pope, to watch over the City carefully, and That of the 
 to render to him an account weekly , of all that c,r > 
 pafleth. This Governor liVeth always in the 
 heart of the City, and hath befides his own 
 Guards, a Barigello or Captain of the Sbirri , or 
 Sergeants* to keep all in order and awe, both 
 day and night* This Barigello hath, Argws like, 
 an hundred eyes to fpy into the deportments of all 
 that live in R ome, and, Briarem like, as many 
 hands, to carry to prifon thofe that infringe the 
 Laws* Hence juftice here is as exa&ly perfor- 
 med, as orders are difcreetly given out. The 
 trices of all things are printed and affixed in pub- 
 ick Places and Shops, Inns and Taverns are 
 Dound to have them let up in their entrance , 
 that ftrangers may know the rates of all provifi- 
 ons, and blame none but themfelves, if they be 
 couzened. So that its as hard a thing to be cou- 
 zened here, as its hard not to be couzened in o- 
 ther places. And for thofe that cannot read or 
 fpeak the Language well, Sbirri will ask of them, 
 what they paid a Meal, how much for a pound 
 of Meat, how much for a pint of fuch and fuch 
 Wine, ivc: and if they find them to have been 
 couzened either in the quantity, weight, or price, 
 they’l right the ftranger beyond his expe&ation, 
 and punifh the delinquent beyond his defire. 
 
 The laft Jubily year I was fhown fome of the Sbir- 
 ri in Pilgrims habits , on purpofe to mingle 
 themfelves with the other Pilgrims, the better to 
 obferve how thevwere ufed or abufed by their 
 Hoffs in Inns and T averns, and accordingly pu- 
 nifh them. In fine, Juftice is fo well adminiftred 
 
 here 
 
i$o Of ITALY. Part it 
 
 here, and imprifoning cafes fo many , that the 
 laft Prince of Conde being in Rome, laid he won- 
 dredmuch atone thing there, which was, to fee 
 fo many Men go Out of their Houfes in the 
 Morning, and return home again to dinner, with- 
 out being imprifoned. A Knife in a Mans Poc- 
 ket, a dark Lanthern, a Sword worn without 
 leave, i$c. will fuffice to make a man be fent to 
 Prifon ; and a Pocket Piftol found about you, or 
 in your Cloakbag , is enough to make you be 
 fent to the Gallies, with tre tratti di cor da , that 
 is, ftrappada thrice ; yet they mitigate the rigor 
 or thefe Laws to Strangers , who offend out of 
 ignorance. 
 
 That of the As for the Government of thd Church, that’s 
 church done partly by the Pope himfelf, in feveral Con- 
 gregations held before him i Partly by his Vicar 
 General, a Cardinal who hath under him a Vice- 
 Oerent fa Bifhop) to help him. There’s fcarce 
 a day in the week, but the Pope holds one Con- 
 gregation or other, about Church affairs, in 
 which Congregations , not only Cardinals inter- 
 vene, but alfo Bithops and Doctors ; and where 
 all bufinefles are headed, as well as handled with 
 great deliberation. Every three weeks the Pope 
 holds a Conjiftory , where all the Cjrdinals that 
 are in Home , meet -his Holyne i, as at a Grand 
 Council, to advice with him concerning the ne- 
 ceflary affairs of the Church. And its pretty to 
 fee , how, like the motions of a well ordered 
 Watch, all bufinefles here move at once, and 
 yet never interfere or clafh with one another. 
 
 The inhabit As for the Inhabitants of they follow 
 tms °f the fortune of their City, and as when Rome was 
 
 Rome. w 
 
I Part II. ®f)e Of ITALY. i6i 
 
 but yet a new Town, the Inhabitants were but 
 
 ! three Thoufanct in all, faith Vionyfuus^ and when 
 it was cprrie to its full growth, it had three or 
 four Millions of People : Infomnch , that in a 
 great Plague, the Bills of Mortality came to ten 
 Thousand Men a day , and this lor many days 
 together : So now, R cm having been fix times 
 lack’d and ruin’d (as l faid above) is not the tenth chronico '<> 
 part fb populous as heretofore ll was \ and even 
 thofe Inhabitants that afe now in Korney are, for 
 the molt part, originary from other parts of Italy 
 and Europe • and have been drawn to take up 
 here, either by preferments or bufinefs. The 
 Nobility it felf is, for the major part, forraign 4 
 and fpfurig out of Rich Families of Popes, Prin- 
 ces and Cardinals , as have been Forraign before 
 their promotions and preferments. The true , 
 
 Ancient and Illuftrious R oman Families, I found 
 to be thefe few, Vrfini , Coloring Fauelli^ Fran - 
 gepani, and fome few others. 
 
 Having thus, as Painters do, taken Rdme in all 
 her poftures, I confefs it happened to me, as it 
 did to Appelles , taking the Picture of Compafpe ; 
 that is, by looking fb often and fo attentively 
 upon Rome, I began to be fo far in love with it, 
 as not only to fuBfcribe to Caftiodorm his opinion, cajp.oi ** 
 who affirms it to be a kind of crime not to live in piftl 
 Rme , when you can do it. Pidculi genius eft ab - 
 fentem fill Rmam diutius facer e , qui in ea conftita- 
 ' tbs pojjit Iribrn habit are ; but alfo to fubferibe to 
 our old Brittain Kings , Cadwatlader^ Ccdrvalla , 
 
 Coenred , OJfa^ Ina and Bur f bed , who thought 
 Rom alfo the bed place to dye in. For if thofe 
 places be thought by all Men , the beft places to 
 
 L 1 live 
 
 
dotage Of ITALY. Part tt. 
 
 Rome, a live in, where a Man may learn the moft expe- 
 knowledg, and how to mannage great 
 affairs 5 where can a Man learn more knowledg 
 than in Rome ? Where all Languages are fpoken, 
 all Sciences are taught, the ablefl: Men of Europe 
 meet, all the bed Records are found, all wits ap- 
 pear, as upon their true Theater, all ForraignEm- 
 bafladors render themfelvcs, all Nuncios at their 
 return to Rome , unload themfelves of the obser- 
 vations they have made abroad ; and where eve- 
 ry Stone almofi: is a Book 5 eveiy Statue a Ma- 
 tter * every Infcription a Leflbn , every Anti- 
 chamber an Academy? And again, if thofepla- 
 pkc/to die ces k? t0 d 7 c in 3 where all comforts of 
 
 ° ls the foul are beft had ; what place can be better 
 to die in than Rome ? the very Center and Bo- 
 fom it felf of Cathoiick Communion ; and where 
 there is fo much devotion, and fo much vertue 
 pra£tifed, and where you have this comfort in 
 your grave; that you lie in a ground which hath 
 been bathed in the blood of fo many Thouland 
 Martyrs. 
 
 And thus much of Rome^ in the defcribing of 
 which , if I have been too Prolix , remember 
 that great Ladies are long in drefling; if too fnort, 
 remember that I only relate what I faw there , 
 not all that is to be leen there. 
 
 My four- Hiving thus feen Rome, I agreed with the Pro - 
 vey from cacao , to carry me to Naples . Others take^ith 
 Rome to them a Vetturino , that lets diem have Horfcs , 
 NapJes. an( j jj ets t hem too 5 I mean , defrays a Man for 
 
 Meat and Drink and Horfe-hire, both going and j 
 coming, and your Horle five days at Naples (but ! 
 not your diet there J and lets you have his Hor- 
 fes 
 
Pan tf. €tye5B0page Of ITALYc 1 63 
 
 fes two days, to-go fee Vefuvius and PqzjlqIq ^ 
 
 , and all this for fourteen or fifteen Crowns a Man. 
 
 It’s true, a man is ill lodged, and badly treated 
 in that journey , but it doth a Gentleman good 
 to be acquainted with hardfhip. 
 
 Parting then from Rome by the Cate of St. John 
 Later an, we palled through thefc places. 
 
 . Marino , a neat little Town belonging to Car- Mmnoi 
 dinal Colonna . It looks like a painted Town. 
 
 Veletri , famous for the birth cl the Anccftors vdetrh 
 of Augufm Crffar. Here’s a brazen Statue of 
 Urban the VIII. and a neat Pallace and Garden 
 of Cardinal Ginetti. Its an Epifcopal Town. 
 
 The Tre Traherne where St. Paul was met, at Tre Tuber* 
 his firft coming to Rome , by the Chriflians of ne * 
 Rome. Act- d8. <v. 1 5. 
 
 Peperno, where Camilla the Amaton was born. Pepemo, 
 
 Foffa Nuova? where St. Thomas of Aquin go- Fofu mo ■- 
 i ing to the Council of Lyons, fell fick and died. vu. 
 
 Taracina fold Anxur) the head Town of the Turucmi 
 Volf dans, but now bare and bald 5 fhewing no- 
 thing but (ome old ruins of the Havdn which An- 
 toninus Pius , here adorned; and of an old Tem- 
 ple. Its an Epifcopal Town. 
 
 Not far from hence flood anciently, the Town Amyciai 
 Amy cite, that Pythagorical T own, which was ruin- 
 ed by Serpents , becaufe none would kill them * 
 Pythagoras his Doftrine forbiding Men to kill a- 
 ny living Creature. Another time it was ruined 
 by filence ; no Man daring to fpeak of the Ene- serv.m lib. 
 mies coming ; too many falfe Alarms having IC * Em 
 made the Magiftrates forbid jiinder patoi of death, 
 that no Man fhould fpeak any more of the Ene- 
 mies coming ; lo that when they came indeed , 
 
 L 1 2 no 
 
I&J. 
 
 AmyclM fi- 
 kmium 
 perdidit. 
 Proverb, a - 
 pud i’.Hie- 
 ron. 
 
 fundi. 
 
 Leo Afer. 
 
 rh vu 
 sppu. 
 
 Wm&Z Of ITALY. Part It. 
 
 no man durft (peak of it. Thus, not only Phi- 
 lofophy, but even lilence it felf and obedience, 
 two noble Vertues* are hurtful to Mai, if they 
 be not accompanied with diferetion. 
 
 From Tar ac in a we went to Fundi to Supper * 
 having palled through a Forreft of Bay Trees , 
 and through an open Gate, called Portello^ which 
 lets Men into the Kingdom of Naples* 
 
 Fun li is fo called , becaufe its built in a low 
 flat. Its antient if you believe your ears , not 
 your eyes. For it looks younger than the other 
 Towns I have patted through before. The rea- 
 fon is, becaufe this Town was burned fome 130 
 years ago by Caradin Barbarotia, admiral of the 
 great Turk Solyman. It was this Caradin , who, 
 of a famous Pyiate , became King of Algiers 5 
 having perfwaded thofe of Algiers to (hake off 
 the Sfanijh yoke. This Caradin being upon the 
 Medtteranean Sea, and hearing, by his Spies, that 
 Julia Gonfaga (widow of Veypafian Colonna , and 
 the handfomeft Woman in the world) lived 
 here in Fundi % landed his Men in the Night, and 
 fent them to catch her napping* refolved to make 
 a fine prefent of her to his lewd Matter Solym&n, 
 But (he leaping out of her Bed, rid away in her 
 very Lumen, and efcaped fo narrowly, that had 
 fhe ftaid to put on any Cloaths, (he had for ever 
 put off all liberty. The Pyrates miffing of this 
 fair Helena , failed not to make a burning Troy 
 of Fundi ; ranlkcking it, and carrying away the 
 beft of its Inhabitants : Such dangerous things 
 are great beauties to weak Towns. 
 
 From Fundi we went to Mela, upon the Via 
 Appia, fo called, becaufe Appim Claudius y a No- 
 ble 
 
part II. cije menage of italy. 165 
 
 Noble R man made it, at his own coft, du- 
 ring his Confulax. This Cawfey is ,one ' of 
 the greateft Proofs of the Romm greatnefs 
 and Riches. For it was five days Journey 
 long; beginning at Rom*> and reaching through 
 the Kingdom of Naples to Bmndufium . It 
 was as broad as two Carts might eafily meet 
 upon it and pafs : it was all of great, black Flint 
 Stones, each one as big as two Men can carry, and 
 laid fo clofe together, that they have held to- f" PIu V 
 gether thefe 1800 years, and feem, as Procopius ln rxcc 
 faith ingenioufly to be rather Congeniti f tnan 
 Congefti , born together , than laid together. 
 
 The frequent palling of Horfes and Mules ("for 
 fo many Years) up 1 * ^ r 1 e e * 
 
 Sun fhines upon it,youmay fee it glitter two Miles 
 of, like a Silver Highway . 
 
 Arriving at AZ0/0, called anciently Fornix I 
 went to fee Cicero's Tomb, which (lands in a Gar - Fof ~ 
 den not far off. And I the more willingly be- m> *' 
 lieveit to be his Tomb, becaufe it’s certain, that 
 'tally had a ViUa in Formiis ( which was this place) 
 and thither he was going in his Litter, when he 
 was overtaken by the Executioners of the trim - 
 'viri and Beheaded. There are no words upon Mix, 
 his Tomb; of which if you ask me the reafori, K 
 I can only tell you, that either words in Profe 
 could not fpeak, their tally being dead 3 orver- 
 fes would not, out of Envy, praife him, who had 
 made Profe (p famous. 
 
 Having fcen this, fome of our Company 
 and I, took a Boat and four luftv Watermen 
 to row u^tq Gpeta and back again, while the reft qmxx* 
 
 it both fo fmooth 
 
 L13 
 
 flayed 
 
1 66 Sewage Of ITALY. Part II. 
 
 flayed at Moh to provide Dinner. Arriving in 
 little more half an hour at Caeta y we went up to 
 the Caftle, where we faw the Sceleton of Charles 
 Bo wl on , once Conftable oi France , but after- 
 wards taking againfl his own King upon a difguft, 
 he ferved the Emperor Charles tne V, and was 
 made one of his Generals and Governour of Mil- 
 lan ♦ Where having borrowed Money of the 
 Milanefi , and having laid a deep Curfe upon him- 
 feif wiihing he might die (in the fir ft Enterprife 
 pe Bijhop k c undertook) if he paid not back the Money by 
 ifBelky 'fuch a time, he failed in his word , but his Curie 
 vi his Hi - did. For his next Enterprise was to gofack Rom: 
 ftyx there his Curfe met him as he fcaled the Walls; 
 and being (hot with a Mufcjnet-Bulfet, he was; 
 forced to pav his debt to Nature. His Body 
 was carried to Caeta y where it ftands with its 
 Bourbon's Cloaths, Boots and Spurs on, in a long Box 
 Mciyc {freight up, with this Spanifh Epitaph over his 
 Head 
 
 Branch ml dio la lecche y 
 Efpagnalosy Ventwra y 
 • Roma ml dio la muerte y 
 Caeta la Sepq 7 tar a. 
 
 France gave me Milk^ Spain great Employments 
 gave. 
 
 Rome gave me Deaths and here Caep a Grave . 
 
 This Caftle {landing upon a Promontory over- 
 looked the Town, and thirty Miles of Sea. In 
 cloven the end of the Town, towards Landdide , for 
 fW'C * this Town is a pure Peninjda , I few thf Cloven 
 
Part II. Of ITALY. 167 
 
 Rort^ which Tradition here holds to have been 
 thus cloven at our Saviours Death: The long 
 Stairs going down between the two Mountains in 
 the very open ga(h, and rendring you to a neat 
 Chappel below, hake you all the way long with 
 a facred Reverence, and are able almoft to rend 
 alfo a Stony heart in two, with the thoughts of our 
 Saviours Paflion. 
 
 Upon the top of all this Promontory there is 
 an ancient Monument of Manuttws Plane ws an old 
 Roman y with a great deal of old Latin upon it ; 
 but my riding boots put me out of all reading 
 Humor , and I was very willing to let Plancus 
 lye quietly in his Monument above, fo I could 
 but recover again our Boat and there fit dill. Of 
 this Town was the famous Cardinal Caetanws , bf 
 St. Thomrn Aquino* his Name, Order, and al- 
 moft Learning. This Town was built by JEneat, 
 in honour of his Nurfe Caeta who dyed here. 
 
 Returning again to Moldy we went after Din- Cicero’s 
 ner to fee Cicero - s Grotty and foaway. Crone. 
 
 We had not ridden three hours but we came 
 to the Ferry of Carigliano, near to which I faw lf C c ^ ry 
 the fair Refts of an old Amphitheater (landing 
 alone in the Fields, with the refts alfo of an A- 
 fueduH. I wondered at firft to fee an Amphithea- 
 ter (landing alone, and far from any great Town: 
 but upon enquiry, I found that here had flood 
 once a noble Town called Minturna, but now fo 
 ruined that not one Stone of it appeareth. In- 
 deed we are often at this fault in Italy, and look 
 for Towns in Corn-Fields. Luna , Populonia , 
 Gma,Baic?y and Minturna cheat thus our Ex- 
 patriations, and leave us no monuments of them- 
 L 1 4 felves* 
 
 Minturn* 
 
f $8 cije taio^age cf italy. Part il 
 
 felves, but a pure Fmt Ilium > which though it be 
 Travellers lofs, yet it’s Mans comfort, that Towns 
 do dye as wed as he : hence R utiliws • 
 
 Non indignemur mortalia Corpora fohai 5 
 
 tyrnims exempli* oppidapojfe mm. 
 
 Having palled over the River in a Ferry-Boat, 
 we entred upon the Meadows, in whofe Fens (cal- 
 led the Fens of Mintuerna) Caws Marius lay hid a 
 while, and there with his ftern looks and manly 
 Voice, faying, dared thou kill Caws Marius > Co 
 terrified the Have feat there to kill him, that he 
 Plutarch; l^t him efcape to his Ship , and fo into A/wt He 
 fnay fpeak big that fpeaks fop his Life 5 ana any 
 looks become a Man when he looks to himfelf 
 well jn dangers. 
 
 While we rode along thefe Meadows we faw 
 before us the mountain of Oaro. anciently called 
 Mo ns MafjieM^ famous for excellent Wines 5 as 
 well as the Country thereabout, which was called 
 Ager FakrnuSj Id famed by Poets for its Vinum 
 Falernm . 
 
 Palling thus along, we came Night to St. A- 
 gatba'S) and the next Morning betimes we entred 
 Campania * nto Bmpanfa'Fodix^ fo funam’d fjecaufe of its 
 feelix. admirable Air, wonderful plenty of Com and 
 Wine, and pleafant Profpe&s on all fides, which 
 makes an Ancient call it. Cert amen Ceverk & Bac - 
 f b^ "the ftrife of Ceres and Bacchus . It was this 
 Country which, ydth its delights broke Hannibal's 
 Army 5 which neither Snow could coolj nor 
 Alt flop, nor Romans vanquifh, faith §eneca . 
 Indeed the pleafantnefs of this Cquutry made us 
 
 V ^ ‘ . ” a” ■ 
 
 hm\ 
 
Part n, of italy. 165 
 
 a full mends for all the ill way we had before; 
 
 Nature having fee that feurvy way there on pur- 
 pofethat we might like her Favourite Campania 
 the better after it. I call this Country Natures 
 Favorite, in imitation of Pliny > who calls it Op as 
 gaudentvs natural that is, a Country made by 
 Nature when fhe was in a good humor. It’s an 
 Heathen that (peaks and you mud pardon him. 
 
 We intended that day to have gone to Capua 
 to dinner; but when we came thither, we did 
 not find it at home. For this Town now called 
 Capua is two Miles diftant from the place where 
 old Capua flood. Indeed the old Capua was a T own 
 of Importance; for it was either the fecond or. 
 third in the World ; and flood in Competition, 
 as Carthage did with Ropne, Nay it demanded of 
 Rome to be ufed like a Sifter, not like a Subjeft ; 
 and flood high upon it, that one of the Annual 
 Confuls fhoiud al wavs refide here. But that Ca- 
 pua is vaniftied witn its vanity ; and this Capua 
 hath po reafon to be fo proud , being famous for 
 nothing but that a&ion of many noble Women 
 here ? who to avoid the Infolencies of the French SeeSt. 
 Soldiers (received into the Town friendly) leapt 
 into the the River Vultuyno to fave their Virgini- * 
 ty and Honor, from their lewdnefs : an aftion And st. 
 rather wonderful, than warrantable. There is a Thom, 
 Caftlehereof pretty Strength, a good River, and 2 * i u * 
 an Arch-Bifhop’s Seat. 6 ^ arU ^ 
 
 From Capua we pafled through A veyfa , a Avcrfa. 
 fweetSeat of a Town, and once great, till Charles 
 the I, King of Naples, almoft ruined it. It’s a 
 Bifhopsfeatftill. Here it was that Queen Joanne 
 of N^fa ftrangled her Husband Andreajfo ; and 'Ntyks* 
 
 was 
 
170 
 
 Petri a St, 
 Kpmuilio 
 in bis Cro - 
 nolog.Trea - 
 for . 
 
 r&? 
 
 domof 
 
 Naples. 
 
 /« import • 
 
 AVCg to 
 
 .ypain. 
 
 %$Z (Mopage Of ITALY. Part H 
 
 was her felf not long after ferved fo too in the fame 
 place. Travelling fome eight Miles farther we 
 came to Naples before we could fee it. This Town 
 was anciently called T arthenope from one of the 
 Syvens, It’s now called Neapolis , a new City 5 be- 
 caufe the Inhabitants of Cum* having out of Jea- 
 Ioufy ruined f arthenope^ were fore vexed with a 
 Plague, till they had built it up again better than 
 before. This happened about the year of the 
 World, 1449. 
 
 As for Naples jvs now the head of a great King- 
 dom, fo called. This Kingdom belonged once to 
 the Emperor : but after that it had been over- 
 run by Sarazens, and freed by Pope John the X 
 united with Alberico , Marquis of Tofcany , it ac- 
 knowledged the Church for its Miftrefs, and the 
 firfl Man that was invefted by the Pope (Inno- 
 cent the II, 1 1 ^0 .) . was Roger the Second, a Nor-r 
 man . Since that time the French , and the Spani- 
 ard have ftrugled hugely for this Kingdom; fome- 
 times the one plucking it to him, then the other. 
 But now it’s under the Spaniard , who holds it 
 of the Pope, and for it payeth every year the 
 Purfe of Gold, and the Gennet fpoken of a- 
 bove. 
 
 This Kingdom is of great importance to Spain, 
 It makes his Party too Itrong for France in Italy. 
 It correfponds conveniently with Sicily, and Mi- 
 lan • and ftrengthens them both. In nne,it bear- 
 eth up notably the Interefl: of Spain in the 
 Court of Rome : and it fqueezeth it ielf now and 
 then into huge Sums, four millions of Crowns, 
 to fend Tribute into Spains Coffers. For this 
 Kingdom is a Thoufana fiye Hundred Miles in 
 
 Compafs, 
 
■ . 
 
 part il c&e mtm of italy. i 7 i 
 
 Compafs, four Hundred and Fifty wide. It hath 
 in it twenty Arch-Bifhops Seats ; an Hundred 
 and twenty five Bifliops Seats ? a Thoufand itsgreat- 
 five hundred Bourghs ; two millions of Souls : ne l s * 
 
 i ten Principalities 5 twenty three D utcbies ; thirty 
 Mur qu: fats ; Fifty four Countries; and about a . 
 Thoufand Baronies, whereof four Hundred are trcn ^ * 
 j Ancient: Ic can raife an Hundred and fifty Thou- 
 fand Foot,and an hundred Thoufand Horfe. Its 
 ordinary Squadron of Gallies are but twenty. 
 
 As for the Town it felt of Naples, if it be the 
 third of Italy for greatnefs, it is the firfl for 
 firength and neatnefs ; and therefore deservedly * p 
 liirnamed La Gentile , the Gentile. It hath Cam* 
 pania on one fide of it, and the Mediterranean 
 Sea on the other : Sothatit ? s fed by Natures bed 
 Dugs, Sea and Land. Its Air was always e- 
 deemed fo pure; that the great Men of Rome 
 had either their Villas f in Naples, or hard by. Its 
 well built, well paved, well furnifhed with excel- 
 lent Provifions, well filled with Nobility, and 
 the Nobility well mounted. The chief fireet is 
 Strada di Toledo, Paved with Freefone, and 
 flancked with noble Pallaces and Houfes. We 
 entered intp fpme of them, and others y/c (aw 
 which had not recovered their emponpoint fince 
 they had beenfick of Mazienetto’s Difeafe: Their 
 very looks (hewed us that their Sicknefs had been 
 Convuljion-Fits. The chief Pallaces are thefe : 
 Theftately Pallaceof the .Viceroy, that of Gra - 
 vina, Carajfa , Vrfino f Sulmne , Toledo , 8cc. 
 
 Moft of the Houfes of Naples are made flat at 
 top, to walk upon; a moft convenient thing to 
 Breath upon in the frefh Evenings, and eafy to be 
 imitated by other fcountries. I 
 
177 
 
 age Of ITALY, Part II, 
 
 I faw here alfo the feveral public places of Af- 
 femblies of the Nobility, according to their fe- 
 veral rancks. Thefe places are like open walk- 
 ing places, rail’d about with high Iron Rails, and 
 painted within. 
 
 rb m l Then the Molo running a quarter of a Mile 
 Te 00f into the Sea, and affording great refrefhment to 
 the Towns-Men, who walk here in the Evenings 
 in Summer, where they are fure to cool their 
 Lungs with a fweet Frejco, At the end of the 
 Molo {lands mounted the high Lantern , to di- 
 refl Ships home fafe in the Night ; and a fine 
 Fountain of frefh Water. 
 
 churches . f° r ^ 1C Churches here they vield to none 
 of mples. in Italy . The D am is ancient, and therefore out 
 of the mode a little : yet it hath a modern Chap- 
 pel which is very Beautiful : and is one of the 
 fineft in Europe , both for Brazen Statues, and 
 and rich Painting. The Cupola was painted by 
 the rare hand of D omemchino. In this Chappel 
 is the Tomb of St. Jamariws^ Bifhop of Benevent^ 
 and now Patron of this Town ; whofe Blood be- 
 ing conferved in a little Glals, and Concrete, 
 melts and grows liquid when it is placed near to 
 his Head, and even bubles in the Glafs. A 
 Baronius p Y ench Nobleman, Count of La Val } was con- 
 verted from Cahimfm to the Catholic Religion 
 rmmKgm. upQn ^ of this Wonder. On the Left-hand 
 Vctr/Ao, of this Chappel without, lies Buried Pope Inno~ 
 St. Ro- cent the IV, who ordered firft, that Cardinals 
 mualdo ftiould wear red Hats. The V erfes upon his Tomb 
 
 'tr'ch '*' to ^ me ^ s ' ^ nt ^ e Sacrifty are kept many pre- 
 Ida/ 0 cious gifts of Princes, and divers Relics of Saints 
 1604.* enchafed in Gold and Stiver. 
 
 The 
 
Part II. W Of ITALY. I73 
 
 Th tAnmnciata is both neat and devout : the TbeAn- 
 Cupola and Roof are well painted and guilt. The nunciata * 
 two Infants of Bethlehem with their leverai 
 Wounds, one in the Head, the other the Body, 
 are (hewn here. The Hofpital is joyningto it, 
 and is of great reception: it maintains twoThou- 
 fand Sick and Decripid in it- befides above eight 
 Hundred Orphans and poor Children. 
 
 Near the great Hofpital (lands St. Peters 
 Church, and before it the Altar upon which (as 
 thelnfcription faith) St. Peter faid Malsathis fil'd 
 coming to Naples . 
 
 The Theatins Church called St* Pauls , is very St. Paulo, 
 neat ; and if if you faw it with its bed Hangings 
 on, you would think it one of the neateft 
 Churches in Italy: T he Roof is curioufly paint- 
 ed and guilt. Here I faw the rich Tomb of Beato 
 Gaetano a holy Man of this Order, and the Ta- 
 bernacle of the high Altar, both very Rich. In 
 the Sacridy they have as rich Ornaments as in any 
 Church of Italy. 
 
 The Jefuits Church here is the bed they have 
 in Italy, if it be not a. little too wide for its length. 
 
 In the Sacridy I faw the riched ornaments for the uu * 
 Altars, and the bed Silver Candledicks that I 
 havefeen any where elfe. It*s rich in Painting, 
 Sculptures, and Marble. The High Altar was not 
 yet finifhed, butpromifeth Wonders. 
 
 The Franciscans Church, called St. Maria ^ Mar i* 
 Nova , is very trim, with its neat Chappels and Nova * 
 Tombs, and guilt Roof. Here I faw the Tomb 
 of Lotrech ; who commanded fo long the French 
 Forces in this Kingdom. His Vertue in Milita- 
 ry affairs was fo great, that hi svery Enemies ad- 
 miring 
 
J74 C^C dotage of ITALY. PattlL 
 
 miring his worth , have caufed his body to be 
 tranflated out of an obfcure place , where it lay 
 before, into this Church and Tomb. I wonder 
 they did not caufe thefe words of Virgil to be put 
 upon it. 
 
 Si Pergama dextra defmdi poffent etiam hac de- 
 fenfa fuijfent. 
 
 the Domi - The Church of the 'Dominicans is Very hand- 
 
 Means fome too, if you do not furprize it^ ana take it 
 Chunk before it be dreffed. I faw it once in its bed at- 
 tire, hung with a rare fuit of Embroidered Hang- 
 ings, which fet it out with great advantage. I 
 faw alfo here, the Crucifix which fpoke to St. Tho- 
 rnes of Aquin , the Do Slot of this Order and 
 Country, and faid, Bene de me feripfifti Tboma. f 
 In the Sacridy of this Church are kept in feve- 
 ral Coffins ("feme covered with white 5 fome with 
 black Velvet) the bodies of feveral great Per- 
 fons, depofited here till their Tombs fhould be 
 made : As of Alphonfo the fil'd , King of Naples 
 and Arragon : Of Queen Joanne the unfortu- 
 nate : That of an Emperor of Conftantinople : 
 That of D uratzjo • That of the Marquis of Fa- 
 fti : with divers others* 
 
 the olive - The Church of the Olivetan Fathers is dately : 
 
 tani. Here lies buried Alexander ah Alexandra^ a great 
 antiquary, whofe ingenious Book Genialium die - 
 rtm^ gives light to many Books, by the unfhel- 
 ling of a world of ancient cudomes of the Ro- 
 man s. In this Church alfo is the Tomb of brave 
 Marchefe di Pifcara , furnamed the Thunderbolt 
 of War. The words upon this Tomb are fo 
 
 ingenious 
 
part ri. cije taotagc of italy. 175 
 
 ingenious (that though I profefs not to fet down 
 many Epitaphs in this my Voyage) I cannot but 
 drive to carry them into other Countries. They 
 are thefe. 
 
 Quisyacet hoc gelido fub rnamore ? Maximm Hit 
 Pifcator, belli gloria, facts horns. 
 
 N 'unquid &. hie fifceS cefit? Non • Ergo quid ? 
 
 Vrbes^ 
 
 Magmnimos Reges, off Ida, regna , Daces. 
 
 Vic quibws hfC cefit Pifcator retibm ? Alto 
 Confilio , intrefido corde, alacrique mam. 
 
 Qui tantum rafuere ducem ? Duo Nomina, Mars * 
 
 Mors. * 
 
 Vt raferent quidnam comfulit ? Irwidia . 
 
 Nil nocuere iffi ; vivit natn Fama [uferjies , 
 
 1 Qude Martem iy Mortem vincit y 6* Invidiam . 
 
 The Church of St. John Carbonare is confide- 
 rable for it felf 5 but much more for the dately 
 Tomb in it 5 of King Robert. In the Church of 
 the Nunnery which dands at the foot of the 
 HilL as you go up to the Carthufians 3 I faw a 
 mod curious Tabernacle upon the Altar, of pre- 
 cious pollifhed dones. Its one of the riched I 
 have feen any where 3 but that of Florence deferi- 
 bed above. 
 
 Then we mounted up that winding Hill of the The /lately 
 Carthufians Church and Monadry , called St. Monaftery 
 Martin’s. Its the mod fumptuous thing in all 
 Eurofe for a Monadery . whether you regard its z u laDS * 
 fituation, or its fabric. Its fituated upon an high 
 hill, under the wing of the Cadle St. Elm , to 
 put Cadies in mind , that they ought to defend 
 
 and 
 
176 «$t Storage Of ITALY. Part II. 
 
 and protect Religion. The whole Quadrangle, 
 or Cloifter of this Monaftry, is of pure poliihed 
 white Marble , paved with Marble fquares, and 
 adorned round with a Balufterj and white Mar- 
 ble Pillars. Then entring into an open Gallery , 
 we had as fine a Profpeft as Europe can afford , 
 birehy-. /. not excepting that of Greenwich , thought by Bar- 
 ron Animo- clay , the belt profped in Europe. For here I faw 
 ***. all Naples under me, with the perfeft fight of the 
 two other Caftles^ with the Haven, the M6\o y 
 the Arfenal, the Ships, the Country round about 
 Naples . Mount f r efuzuw$ y Paujjlipws y the Ships at 
 Sea, the Promontories of Mijenum and Miner - 
 <va y the Ifle of Caprea y with a world of other 
 delightful fights. Then I was led into the apart- 
 ment. of the Padre Vi fit atore, where I faw molt 
 neat Rooms , and Tome good Pictures. Thai 
 going to the Church, I found it to exceed the 
 Cloyftcr, which before I thought to have exceed- 
 ed all other things. Its all of Marble, gilding 
 and painting. The Pavement is all of curious 
 red and white Marble fquares, as is alfo the Sa- 
 crifty. The Chappies and Pictures match the 
 roof* and the Pillars with their particular Gra- J 
 ces. The Sacrifty is abfolutely the richeft I ever 
 law. The great Clipboards are of fuch a h re 
 Mofaic wood work, inlaid into Pi&ures, that it 
 difputes hard with the Qjiire of Do mrlic ns in 
 Bologna. Here they fhewed me a great Crucifix ( 
 of Silver, which had been fifteen years in ma- 
 king. The Remmflrance to expofe the B. Sacra- 
 ment in, is made like a Sun , wfiofe Beams are 
 mingled with Silver and Coral. The great Can- J, 
 dlefficks of Mailive Silver, and the great Flower- [ 
 pots are curioufly wrought. Then [ 
 
part II. c$e 3H<OTe Of ITALY. 
 
 Then I went to fee the three Caffles ; That 
 of St. £fe;, which is hard by the Cartbufians , -fo 
 was built by Charles the V. It hands well upon Elmo • 
 its own Guard 5 by reaion of its high fituation : 
 
 But I doubt whether it can offend any enemy, ex- 
 cept Naples it felf, which is under it. 
 
 The Caffe Pta/0 , was built by William the Ca ^ e ^ 
 third of Normandy , upon a rock in the Sea; and m 
 from its oval form, its called C aft el vovo. There 
 is a digue leading unto it from the i_and. 
 
 The C a file Nuovo was built by ( bar les of An- CaftU 
 jou , defigned King of Naples. It hands near the 
 Molo. and level with the Town and Sea, as if it 
 could, defend and offend both. 
 
 Thefe three Caffles are guarded by natural 
 Spaniards ; and well furnifhed with greatCannons, 
 by whofe language ('which is ultima rath Regum^ 
 
 Kings laft Arguments) the Neapol tans are cither 
 Catechifed into duty, or threatened into obedi- 
 ence. Indeed, fuch a People and Town are not 
 eafily bridled : Such a wanton courfer as Naples , 
 is not to be ridden with fnaffles, it hath often 
 plunged under the King'of Spain , but could ne- 
 ver fling him quite out of the Saddle, merce a gli 
 tre Caftelli „ 
 
 Then I went to fee the Markets here, and found T ^ e Mm* 
 them mod admirable , efpecially thofe of fruit, * aSe 
 which Campania fends hither : And were but 
 the Taxes taken off * or reasonably moderated, 
 
 Naples would be the cheapeft and richeft place in 
 the world. But the Kings Officers, if they fuck 
 in Milan , and fleece in Sicily, they ffey in Na- 
 pi y, which ufage drove the People fome years 
 part, into fuch a defperate humor, that 
 
 M m 
 
178 cije mo^age Of ITALY. Part II. 
 
 An. 1647 . took up Arms , under the command of Ada- 
 zanielo : his true name was Thomas Angelas 
 Maia , a poor Fifher-man, without Stoclcings 
 or Shoes , who for ten days together, fwagger- 
 ed here fo powerfully in the head of two Hun- 
 dred Thoufand mutinous Pe pie, that when 
 he commanded them to burn a houfe, they did 
 it : When he commanded them to call into 
 the Fire, all the goods. Papers, Plate, Beds, 
 
 themfelves : When he commanded them to 
 cry out : Down with the Gabells , they did it : 
 when he put his Finger to his Mouth, they were 
 all filent again \ as if this poor Fiiher-man had 
 been the foul that animated that great body of 
 People : It was prodigious indeed , that fuch a 
 poor young Man ( not paid twenty three ) in 
 Waficoat and Drawers , and his Fifhers Cap on, 
 fhould find fuch obedience, from fuch rich and 
 witty Citizens. But as tumultuous People make 
 arms, of everything their fury meets with, fo 
 they make Captains of every man that will 
 but head them ; and as the Proverb goes. In fe* 
 ditione vel Androc tides belli dxeem a git. They 
 {hewed me the houfe of this Fifher-man : But 
 the other houfes {hewed me his fury. Thoufands 
 1 : recovered thofe ten days tumults. 
 
 lion , Cromwells and Mazanels are cryed up for 
 great Men : Or rather, when God hath a mind 
 to puniih, Flies and Gnats are powerful things, e- 
 ven againft Princes. 
 
 that when Men are ripe for Rebel- 
 
 Here 
 
■pr ' T - ■ ' •: 
 
 Part II. Cf)e of ITALY. 179 
 
 Here are two Academies of wits, tire one cal- tU Acak - 
 led the Ardenti , to ftiQw their ardof in dudy- mes °f 
 ing: The other the Otmfi y wifely indituted as wm * 
 an allay to the others heat. 1 
 
 Some of the famous Men for learning of this Learned 
 Town, were old Stating rare Sannaz.ariivs^ A- 
 lexander ab Alexmdro , and John Baptifl Marini : 
 three excellent Poets , and one Antiquary. Na- 
 ples hath furnifhed the Church with eighteen 
 Popes. 
 
 Having thus feen the Town it felf of Naples , 
 
 I was mod willing to the wonders of Nature , 
 which are near unto it. Horfing therefore be- 
 times one Morning, we went with a guide to lee 
 Vejtwim , the burning Mountain , feme feven 
 miles diftant from Naples. Our honed guide rkeMm* 
 had dudied the Hidory or this Hill, and could tain Pepu* 
 tell how often it had broken forth into flames, vim 
 lince the beginning of the world, that is, tve ty 
 times. Xiphilinws the Epitomift of Dio, relates 
 at length, one that happened under the Emperor 
 Titus. But the lad which happened in the year 
 1631. he remembred very well, and related it 
 to me as we went along , with a fad Preface , of 
 
 Infandum Peregrine jubes renovare dolorem, 
 
 becaufe he could alfo fay, 
 
 - — Et quorum pars magnafui, 
 
 having been an A£tor in that diPrder. For he 
 was Son to a rich Husbandman here, and with 
 much ado \ JEneat like , he had relcued his old 
 M m z Father 
 
180 €f)Z tlUOtage Of ITALY. Partll. 
 
 Father from the A flies of fitfmws , which over- 
 whelmed and buried whole Villages. Here faid 
 he, pointing to the place, flood a great Vineyard, 
 one of the beft of the Country 3 but now three 
 fathom deep in Allies. Here flood a Village full 
 of rich Husbandmen and goodly Houfes • but 
 now ruined by the ftones (hot at it from VejwviiM. 
 Here flood once a pleafant Villa, beautified with 
 curious Walks 9 Orange-trees , Fountains and 
 Arbors , but Jam cinis eft ubi 'villa fmt. In a 
 word, above two Thoufand people were burnt, 
 lamed or ftifled in this eruption. Then he flaw- 
 ed me the vaft Stones , which overcharging the 
 ftomachof Vefuvim, he had vomited up, with 
 fuch a boaking, that Naples thought the day of 
 Judgment had been at nand. Then he fhewed 
 me a Channel , where a River of fiery green 
 matter, mingled with Brimftone, Allurn, Iron, 
 Water, and Salt-pccter, had run from that fpew- 
 ing Hill. The manner of this breaking out was 
 thus. The Hill began firft to (moke more ve- 
 hemently than before. Then it flamed and caft 
 out a cloud of Allies, which, had the wind flood 
 toward the City , had covered all Naples , and 
 buried it in thofe Allies. Then it began to roar, 
 as if Madam Nature her felf had been in la- 
 bour. Thunder was but Piftoi-crack to this noife : 
 ynd the mouth of a Cannon a full mile wide, 
 muft needs give a great report. It bellowed and 
 thundered again : Naples trembled : The ground 
 fwelled : The Sea it lelf Ihivered for fear, when 
 the Hill tearing its entrals with huge violence , 
 was brought to bed of a world of vaft Stones, 
 £hd a floud of Sulphurous matter , which ran 
 
Part ii. CJje taw^age of italy. 181 
 
 I from the top of the Mountain into the Sea, for 
 the fpace of three miles. AM this he told me, 
 and this he ftiewed me afterward, in a public in- 
 fcription, upon a fair Marble done, erefted hard 
 by. And all this made me but the more defi- 
 rous of feeing this Mountain. Wherefore fpur- 
 ring on, we came foon after to the foot of the 
 Hill 5 where, leaving our Horfes , we began to 
 crawl up that deep Hill, for a good mile toge- 
 ther, to the mid-leg, in afhes. At lad, with much 
 ado, we got to the top of the hill; and peeping 
 fearfully (remembering Pliny's accident ) into the 
 great hollow, from the brinck of it, found it to 
 be like a vad Kettle, far greater than thofe Hell 
 Kettles, near Vejlington , in the Bilhoprick of See Baker > s 
 Durham, made by Earthquakes. For the Ori- chronic. in 
 fice of this Kettle is a mile or two wide, and ve- Hemic. 2 . 
 ry nigh as deep. In the bottom of it , is a new 
 little hill, riling out of the hollow of the old, 
 and fuming perpetually with a thick fmoke, as 
 if it alfo would play tricks too in its turn. Ha- 
 ving gazed a while at this Chimney of Hell (for 
 T ’ertullian calls /Etna and VeUmiivs, Fmariola in- mUs 
 ferni) we came fader down man we went up. He chimneys. 
 that is not content with this mv fhort defeription 
 of the burning of this hill, let him read Julius 
 C<?[ar Recupitus, who hath made a little book a- 
 lone of it, called, De Fefuviam incendio Nun* 
 tins. 
 
 Having recovered our Horfes again, we came 
 back to Naples-, and the next Morning, taking a. 
 new guide, we went to fee the wonders of Nature 
 about Bai<e and Puz»z*uolo. 
 
 M m 3 
 
 Horfing 
 
18a )e mo^age Of ITALY. Part II. 
 
 Our jour - Horfing then again betimes in the Morning , 
 
 nejtoPup we pafTed by ths^Caftle and foon after to 
 %u°i°, M.rgelino^ to fee the Tomb of Sannazarius the 
 Poet £ who lies buried in the Church of Santa 
 Sanna%a*j* Maria del Par to ,, which was once Samazarius 
 jk’s Tomb . ]^ s own ] 10U f e , which dyings he left to be made 
 a Church of, under that Title : So that in his 
 T eftament , he wrote de Virginia partu^ as well 
 as in his Book : And he might as well have writ- 
 ten upon the Frontifpice of this Church, as upon 
 the Frontifpice of his book , opera Sannazarii de 
 Virginis panu. His Tomb here is adorned with 
 Marble figures, and with this ingenious Epitaph 
 made of him by Cardinal Bembo . 
 
 D a [aero cineri f lores . Hie ille Mlaroni 
 Sincere Mufa proximo ut tumulo. 
 
 His name was Jacobus Sannazarius , but he chan- 
 ged his name for that of Sine eras , at the requeft 
 of Pontams , who alfo changed his name too , 
 and caufed himfelf to be called Jovianus , as Jo- 
 wus, in Elogiis virorm dottorum*> faith. Not far 
 oh this place, nor far from the entrance of the 
 Grotte of Paufilipus , in the Gardens of St. Seve- 
 VirgiTs yim-) hands Virgil's Tomb, covered almoft over 
 Tomb . with Laurel, or Bay-trees : As if that Poets Lau- 
 
 rel were grou n into a fhady Bower, to make a 
 whole Tomb of Lawrel fer the Prince of Poets. 
 
 From thence we returned again into our way, 
 and prelently came to the entrance of the Grotte 
 of Paufilipus . This Mountain lying at the very 
 back of Naples , and rendring the paffage to Na- 
 ples extremely inconvenient for carriages, it was 
 
 thought 
 
Part ir. wage of italy. 183 
 
 thought fit to cut a Cart away under Ground, 
 quite through the Mountain : fome fay it was 
 Lucullws 5 that caufed it to bethift boa red : others 
 lay it was Cocceiws Nerva Certain it is, that 
 it 'is ancient, feeing Serna makes mention of 
 it. 
 
 Entring into the Grotte of FauftliPm^ we found T » e Gron f 
 it to be about forty Foot high, ana broad enough ^aufih- 
 for two Carts laden to meet with eafe. They po * 
 fay here, that it is a full Mile long - 7 but I thought 
 it fcarce fo much. We rid fome forty pa- 
 ces by the light of the wide Entrance 5 but that 
 vanifhing, we were left in the Dark a good while, 
 till we came to the half way, where there hangs 
 a burning Lamo before the Pi&ure of our Savi- 
 our in the B. Virgins Arms. The light of this 
 Lamp was very grateful unto us ; and I am con- 
 fident a Puritan himfelf, were he here, would be 
 glad to fee this Lamp and Picture, and love them 
 better for it ever after. All the way of this 
 Grotta is very even and level, but hugely duffy; 
 as a ^oom muft be that hath not been fwept 
 thefe fixteen Hundred Years. The People of 
 the Country meeting here in the dark, know 
 how to avoid one another, by going from Naples 
 on the right hand, and returning on the left ; 
 that is, by keeping on the Mountain fide going, 
 and returning on the Sea-fide : and this they ex- 
 prefs by crying out often; A la Montagna^ or a 
 la Marina 5 to the Moxntain-fide, or to the Sea- fide , 
 to give notice whether they come, or go. Our 
 Guide underftood the Word, and he giving it 
 unto me, and I to my next Man, it ran through 
 our whole Brigade , which confided of a dozen 
 M m 4 Horfemen 
 
184 ©O^age Of ITALY. Part II. 
 
 Horfemcn in all. Almoft all the way we rid in 
 it, we (hut our Eyes, having little ufe of them * 
 and our Mouths and Nofes too, for fear of being 
 choak’d with the Dud: fo that our exterior 
 Senfesbein «■ thus (hurup , our Interior began to 
 work more freely , and to think of this odd place. 
 My thoughts coming newly from 5 annaz.mws 
 and Virgih Tombes, fell prefently upon Poetry, 
 ( for all this Country is a Poetical Country) and 
 I began to think whether this were not Polyphemus 
 his Den, brcaufe Homer makes it to have been 
 near the Sea-fide, as this is, and capable of hold- 
 ing great Heards of Sheep, as this alfo is. Some- 
 times I thought that it might have been here, 
 that Jupiter was hidden from his devouring Fa- 
 ther, Saturn, who came into Italy for certain ; 
 as alfo becaufe Sophocles makes mention of Jupi* 
 ter aufilipus . But at 'fait I concluded that this 
 was the place where merry Gods and Goddeffes, 
 after their jovial Suppers, plaid at Hide and 
 Seek, without being Hqod-winck’d. By this 
 time we began to fee theodier end of the Grot a 
 far off, by a little Light which grew greater and 
 greater, till at laft we came to the Iflue of it. 
 
 Gmu del Being got out of this Cymmman rode, we began 
 
 Cane. to open our Eyes again to fee if we could find one 
 another ; and our Mouths too to difeourfe upon 
 this exotick place. Thus we rid difeourfing upon 
 this W onder, till we came to the Grotta del Cane , 
 a new Wonder. 
 
 Arriving there, we prefently had a Dog rea- 
 dy ( though for the mod part i 1 ^ 
 
 whining away when they iee a 
 
 arrive,) and I faw the Experiment of that famous 
 
 Grotta % 
 
Part II. Of ITALY. 185 
 
 Grotta , which being bat three yards within the 
 fide of the Hill, may be leen without entring into 
 it. The Experiment is this. A Man takes a 
 Dog alive, and holding down his Head with a 
 wooden Fork to the Ground, the Dog begins 
 firft to cry, and then to turn up the white of the 
 Eyes, as if he would dye. Then letting him hold 
 up his Head again, he recovers. And having 
 thus twice or thrice ihewed us the Experience of 
 this infe&ious place, he puts down the Dogs head 
 again, and holds it down lo long, till the Dog 
 feems to be dead indeed. Then taking him by 
 the diff Leg, and running with him to the Lake 
 Agnan^ fome forty Paces off, he throws him 
 into the fhallow water of this Lake, and prefent- 
 jy he begins to recover, and to wade out. They 
 would make us believe, that as it is the nature 
 of this Grotta to kill, fo it is the nature of this 
 Lake to revive dead things again. But if the Dog 
 were dead indeed, all the water of Agnano , tho* 
 it were Aqua Viu would not recover him : he is 
 only adonifhed with the infeftious Vapor which 
 breatheth out of this Sulphurous ground below. 
 ThePeftilent nature of this Grotte was Ihewed us 
 plainly by a lighted Torch, which as long as it 
 was high from the Ground, burnt clearly : but 
 as it was approached by little and littlenear to the 
 Ground, it grew dimmer and dimmer, till at 
 lad it burnt blew , and being held clofe to the 
 Ground, it went quite out. 
 
 Then we were diown hard by, the Stoves of The Stoves 
 St. Gennaro , which by a natural fulphurous Va- 0 / ^.Gcn- 
 por iffuing drongly from low caules, put a Man naro * 
 prefently in a Sweat, and are excellent Remedies 
 * for 
 
i86 tutorage Of ITALY. Part II. 
 
 for the Neapolitan Difeafe, called by fome Au- 
 thors, Cmpanm Morbus : Nature, an Indulgent 
 Mother, thinking her felf bound to afford a Re- 
 medy to the difordes which flie her felf hath en- 
 din’d the Neapolitans unto. 
 
 Then fetching about the Hilsby a narrow un- 
 The Capu~ f rec l uente d way, we came to the Convent of the 
 ms. Capucins handing there where St. Januarim was 
 Beheaded.In a little Chappel on the Right-hand as 
 you enter into the Church,they Chewed us the Stone 
 upon which he was beheaded $ the Blood is dill 
 upon it. 
 
 The SuU F rom hence we defended down into the Sul- 
 phatara. phatara , where the burning Sulphur fmokes out 
 perpetually from under ground. This Suphata - 
 ra is a kind of Pit, environed on all fides with 
 Banks, and it is about fifteen Hundred Foot long, 
 and a Thoufand broad. We rid down into it on 
 Horfe-back, and it founded hollow under our 
 Horfes Feet, as if we had been riding over a 
 wooden Bridg. There are divers Spiracuda , or 
 vents round about it,out of which the thick Smoak 
 preffeth furioufly, as out of a Furnace 5 and 
 makes Poets and Potters find matter enough ; 
 thofe for their Fables calling it, Forum Vulcani : 
 Thefefor their Medicinal Pots, which they make 
 of this Brimftony Earth. 
 
 Near to Suphatara Hands a round Pool of black, 
 thick Water, which always boileth ; and what- 
 foever you throw into it, it comes out boiled in- 
 deed, but not entire; fomething or other of it 
 being always dimini (lied, faith Leandro Alberti 
 One putting in four Eggs in a long Ladle, pulled 
 out but three again : I wonder Poets feigned not 
 
Part n. Cije sorage of italy. 187 
 
 this Lake to be that part of Hell allotted to punilh 
 llfurers, feeing it takes ufe for every thing that’s 
 put into it. 
 
 Deli ending from Sulphatara to Puzxuolo , we 
 ' wondered to fee the very High-way fmoak un- 
 der our Horfes Feet, when yet we found not 
 them lo fiery under us 5 butlioundtheSmoak to 
 coin c out of little chinks of the dried ground: 
 which fliewed us that the whole Country was 
 on Fire under us. Before we came to the T own 
 vve law the remnants of a fair Amphitheater , 
 and Cicero’s Academy. 
 
 Immediately after this vve came came to Puz.~ ^Atfuoh. 
 zmlo^ fo called, either from the multitude of 
 Springs about it , or elfe a Putore x from thcfmell 
 v vhich this Brimftony Country affords.The town 
 is but little, yet ancientlv a oifhops Seat. Ta- 
 king Boat here prefently, vve palled over the 
 Creek of the Sea to Baioe x which is three Miles 
 from hence 5 and as vve row’d along, I admired 
 the wilddefignof Caligula^ who built a Bridge 
 from PuzxMoh to Bai<e : feme of the Arches yet 
 ftanding on both fides, fliovv us that this folly 
 is real ; and I believe Suetonius meant this work,- 
 when he taxeth the inf anas fubftruSiom^ and 
 mad buildings of this Emperor. That which 
 contributed much to the bold attempt ; was the 
 nature of the Sand of this Country, which made Pliny and 
 into Morter, and let down into the Water, Vitruvi- 
 
 i jrows hard and folid, even to petrify there at us \ 
 aft. Puteolanus pulvis^ fi aquam attigit faxm 
 eft . 
 
 Reaching the other fide of the Bay, and 
 leaving our Boat to attend us, we rambled for an 
 
 hour 
 
188 ©orage Of ITALY. Part II. 
 
 hour and an half among the Antiquities of this 
 ruined Paradife of Bai# : for you know, Nullus 
 in or be locm Bails preluxit awsnis. 
 
 Mereato Firft we were led to the Mercato di Sabato, look- 
 di sabato. ing dill like a Street with ruins of Houfes on both 
 Sides’ 
 
 TbeEJifm Thence we went to the Elizian Fields, which 
 Fields. are much beholding to Poets for their Fame : o- 
 therwife they are but a very common Plat of 
 Ground, witnout any gracefulnefs at all 5 except 
 only that it Bai* were a Town dill, a Man might 
 make a fine Bowling-ground here. But Poets 
 who have Power and Licenfe to credt Itbacrn in- 
 to a Kingdom, have out-poeted it here, by e- 
 redling this litttle fpot of Ground into a Para- 
 dife. 
 
 Thence we came prcfently to the Pifcim Mi - 
 Vifcmi ^ rabili , a vad Building under ground born up 
 Mirabilu by f orC y or fifty g rC at fquare Pillars, long 
 an Hundred and fifty Paces, forty wide, ana 
 thirty high. We descended into it by many Steps, 
 and it’s fo well walled with Stone, and Lime on all 
 fides, that Water cannot fink through. And all 
 this was only to keep frefh Water in^ either for 
 the Reman Gallies that ufed to lye hereabouts in 
 this Harbors $ or elfe for the Romans Gufto ; 
 who having their curious Villa's hereabouts, had 
 no mind to drink of the Springs of this Bitumi- 
 nous Country* At the top of this Pifcim Mira - 
 lilij I efpiedfome Spouts of Stone yet remaining, 
 by which they ufed to let the Water from above 
 Tromonu into the vad Referver. 
 
 Mifeni. Returning again, vve were fhovvn the P ro- 
 Mzre nor- mn tory of Mifenm a far ofE and the Mare Mor - 
 mm cento tmm j iar j by. Then 
 
Part ii. c$e socage of italy. 189 
 
 Then vvc went into the Cento Cmerelle ; fo cal- c zrmreU 
 led from an Hundred little Rcoms that were li% 
 built together like Chambers within one another, 
 to keep Slaves in, who ferved the Gallics- 
 
 Going again tovvards our Boat, we were 
 fliown the pi ace where Agripna fhoula have 
 been drowned by a falfe- bottomed Boat; but 
 that failing, her Son Nero caufed her to be Stab- 
 bed here. Indeed Breafts that had turn’d their 
 Blood into Milk, to give Suck to fuch a Mon- 
 .fter; could expeft nothing elfe but to be emptied 
 of all their Blood ; but fhe was defign’d to this 
 ill ufagelong before. For being foretold, when 
 fhe was with Child of Nero, that fhe had ifi her 
 Womb a Son, who ftiould be Emperor, but 
 withal, vvho fhould kill her 5 fhe cryed out : Occi- 
 dat mdo impret : Let him kill me f jo he be but Em- 
 feror ; and fhe had her Wifh. It’s faidalfo that 
 this Paricide (for , Nero nunquam fine fublici fa- 
 - ricidii frefathne nommandus eft , ( faith Valerius 
 Maximus) after his Mother was kil’d, would 
 needs have her ript up, that he might fee where 
 he had lodged nine Months together : and I be- 
 lieve that nothing haftened more the Confpiracv 
 of the Romans , againlt him, than that they could 
 now no longer endure him, vvho could not en- 
 dure hiYovvn Mother. Hard by the Shoar (lands 
 yet the Tomb of that unfortunate Princefs. 
 
 Then taking Boat again, we rowed by the A 
 mines of Marius , and Ctefar's Villas, and divers pina c s 
 other feraps of Antiquity, and all along in the Tomh 
 Water (in a clear day) you may fee the Foun- 
 dations of Bai<e, and fome Arches, and the Pave- 
 ment of the very Streets 3 all now in the Sea. 
 
 Omni# 
 
1 90 Cfce motm Of ITALY. Part II. 
 
 Omnia fen tetas 5 and time, which in all other 
 places is called Edax revum , may here be called 
 Bib ax rermjhavmg fup’d up here a whole Town. 
 
 Rowing on {till by the Shoar, vve came to 
 the Foot of Nero 1 s Fallace, near to the ruins of 
 which, (lands mounted a ftrong Caftlc, b iilt a la 
 moderna , upon an high Hill. Leaving here our 
 Boat again, we were vvifhed.to put our Hands 
 into the Sand of the very Sea, which vve found 
 to bum under the cold Water. 
 
 Cicero's Then vve went hard by to C kero’s Baths, a 
 Baths* great fquare place, where antientlv were writ- 
 ten over Head in old Letters, the names of the 
 'Diieafes which thefe Waters Cured: which 
 Letters fome Phyfitians caufed to be defac’d, pre- 
 tending that they were fuperflitious Chara&ers, 
 when indeed they were unwilling, : ■ en fhould 
 be cured by any thing, but the (Irange Chara&ers 
 in their Recipes. 
 
 Near thefe aforefaid Baths, are tbofe of Trito- 
 , la , where vve were led into the long Grotte, and 
 
 cfTdtola P re ^ ent ty P ut int0 a Sweat by a ftifling heat that 
 'met us violently in that long Entry. I followed 
 my Guide, and finding the Steam to be Choak- 
 ing, I (looped down lovv behind the Guide, to 
 let him break the hot Air before me. As I thus 
 {looped, I found out by Experience what others 
 find by hearfay $ that the nearer the Ground a 
 Man itoops here, the cooler he finds himfelf. 
 hus Ante us like, fetching now and then (uccor 
 m my Mother Earth, I found Humility to be 
 a ; ,de Remedy. In the middle of this long, nar- 
 r / Entry tliere’sa place for thofe that (land in 
 need of Sweating, to (land on ftradling wide, 
 
 % and 
 
Partn. motage 0f ITALY. 191 
 
 and fo iVveat abundantly. They told me that 
 at the end or this Grotty there are Baths of So- 
 vereign Virtue 5 but I being well without them, 
 had no mind to be choked in ieeking out Health. 
 
 Returning from hence we had a huge walk of 
 it to the Lacivs Averms^ made by the River A- 
 cheron , i. e. fine gmdio : a fit name for the Ri- 
 ver of Hell. This Lake is famous for its ftink- 
 ing Air, which was obferv’d to kill Birds as they 
 flew o r er here. On the farther fide of it was the 
 Temple of Apollo . . , 
 
 Leaving this Lake on our Right hand, we 
 made towards the Grotte of Sibylla Cim^ea^ fo cumxa. 
 called from the City C<um^ which flood not far 
 off. This long Grotta was once a Subterranean 
 paffage to the City of Cum# fas that of Paufili - 
 pus is yet to Naples) and the Sybills Grotte is that 
 little dark Entry which ftrikes out of the long 
 Grotte . This leads you to the Chamber of the 
 laid Sybille and her Baths. It’s a fine retiring 
 place for a chaff Maid, that fears as well to fee 
 as to be feen : Tam timet videre , quam r videri y 
 and fuch the Sybills were 5 who for their Virgini- TertuU. 
 ties fake, had the gift of Prophecy given them, 
 faith St. Hierome. This Sibylla Cum^a Propheci- 
 ed very particularly of our Saviour’s Birth, and 
 for that reafon Julian the Apoftata burnt her Pro- 
 phecies faith Ammianus Manellim , an Heathen 
 Hiftorian of thofe times. 
 
 As we returned again from hence to our Boat, 
 we gazed upon a great Mountain called Monte Nu~ Monte 
 ovo becaufe it was caff up in one Night ( on Mi - Nuovo : 
 chelmafs Night, Anno 153d) by an Earthquake, 
 which the Philofopherscall Bra[mmchws< that is* 
 
 when 
 
19 2 t&opage Of ITALY. Part II. 
 
 when the earth is thrown up, and Mountains are 
 formed. Some hold this Mountain to be three 
 miles high, but I think it enough to give it a full 
 mile. It covet’d ( at its riling upj a great part 
 of the old Lac m Lucrinu6 3 which was quite fuck- 
 ed up by this great fop. 
 
 Then taking our Boat again , we returned to 
 Tuz.z,uolo , and at night to Naples ; where we (laid 
 but one day more, as well to reft our Horfes, as 
 to fee the filk-ftiops , where they make curious 
 filk Waftcoats, Stockings, Scarfs, 
 
 The ffifto - He that defires to know the Hiftory of Naples, 
 
 ry of m- let him read the Book called, II Compendia dell 
 P les% Hifloria di Napoli , di Collenuccio. 
 
 Having thus feen Naples , we returned again 
 towards Rome, the fame way we came, without 
 any danger of Banditi , but not without fome 
 trouble caufed us by the Officers of the Oabella 
 Tale heed at Fundi, who met us a quarter of a mile out of 
 cf the g<l- the Town, and ftopt us upon the road to fearch 
 tellers of USj anc j f ee whether we had any thing liable to 
 un u the Oabella ; or more money of the Country , 
 than the Law allows Men to carry out. For my 
 
 E art, I had taken care of all this afore hand, and 
 ad nothing liable to the greateft rigor. But 
 fome of our Company, that did not believe the 
 rigor to be fo great, found it. For to fome they 
 pulled off their Boots, fearched their Pockets", 
 Breeches, Doublets; nay, even their Saddles, 
 Horfes tails, and the very Horfesfeet. From 
 one Gentleman they took four Piftols of Gold, 5 
 becaufe he carryed fo much more than was al- 
 lowed : Though with much ado we got the Ger| 
 tleman his money again ; I have known divers 
 
Pa it it €^e wage of italy. i 
 
 that have not efcaped io well, having been (trip- 
 ped in the open Fields, even to their Shirts, 6r. 
 their Watches taken from them , though they 
 had brought them with them to Naples, and not 
 bought them there. This is to learn my Tra- 
 veller to be inqtiifitive in all his journeys, 'of the 
 Laws of the Country where he travellcth , efpc- 
 cially fuch obvious ones as concern public Paifa- 
 ges, Bridges, Ferries, bearing of Arms, and the 
 like 5 the knowledge of which cufioms will make 
 him avoid many inconveniences , which I have 
 known others tall into. 
 
 In another Voyage to Naples, in our return 
 to Rome , we made little excurfions, to take in 
 fome places about Rome, which we had not lecn 
 before, as Arbano , Cajtel Gandulfo, Frefcati and 
 Tivoli, which lay almoit in our way. 
 
 Riling therefore betimes at Veletri , we croffed 
 over the Hills, and came to Alb am (anciently ^bano 0 
 called Longo Alba) and now one of the feven Bi- 
 fhops Seats about R ome, which are given to the 
 eldeft Bifhop Gardinals, that they may be at 
 hand always, and ready to affift the Pope in his 
 affairs of importance. The others are Porto , 0 - 
 fiia, Frefcati , Tivoli , Prenefte, Veletri . In Alba* 
 no , I faw nothing of moment but an old Church, 
 and fome old Houfes : Yet feeing it (lands in fo 
 good an air, I wonder the great' men of Rome 
 nave not built Houfes here , where the wine 
 is fo exquifitly good. Indeed this wine makes 
 this Town to be much taken notice of bv all 
 (Irangers, as being the bed wine thars con handy 
 drunk in Rome. 
 
 N n Hard 
 
1 94 C$e Of ITALY. Part it 
 
 CaJjeiGan- Hard by Albano (lands Caftel Gandulfo , the 
 duty?. Popes Country houfe, in Summer. It (lands ve- 
 ry pleafantly, having on one fide of it a Lake 
 and Woods, and on the other, the Camp am* of 
 Rome , and the City it felf in view. I dept into 
 this Caftle, but found nothing but bare walls, it 
 r . being unfurniihed. 
 
 Frejcau. * From hence we went to Frefcati , called an- 
 ciently T ufculm- This is abfolutely one of the 
 fweetefl places in Europe- The Town is but lit- 
 tle 5 but round about it , efpecially on the Hill 
 fide, there are fo many curious Villas ^ Pall aces , 
 Gardens , Fountains , J lady Walks , and Summer de- 
 lights^ that I wonder not, if Princes, Cardinals, 
 and other great Perlbns, retire hither, in Sum- 
 mer. In a word, here Cato was born, here Lu~ 
 cullu* delighted himfelf, and Cicero (tudied and 
 wrote his Tufculans queftions. The firft place 
 The villa, we went to fee here, was the Villa Aldobrandani . 
 dinfn-'je is alfo called the Belvedere of Frefcati , 
 
 dele. ^ ^caufe ^ hands fo pleafantly ; having the Cam- 
 pania of Rome, and Rome it felf in fight on one 
 iide ; and cn the other, the Hill fide all covered 
 with Laurel Trees, curious Fountains, Cafcatos, 
 and other delightlome Water-works, which af- 
 ford here a cool feafon, even in the Months of 
 Julv and Auguf. The variety of thefe Water- 
 works, are fo many and fo curious, that I cannot 
 but defcribe them. 
 
 The Cafca - Firft then, the rare Cafcata prefentsit felf, and 
 
 Ut its made thus. At the turning of a vaft Cock, 
 the water ( which is brought through a great 
 Hill, from a fource five Miles off ) fpouts out of 
 the top of two high winding Pillars of Stone , 
 
 which 
 
m \ . • . " ' v ~ 
 
 Part ii. c&motfage of ITALY. t$$ 
 
 which fland mounted upon the head of an high 
 pair of open Stairs, and then failing down upon 
 the fame Pillars again , it follows the winding 
 bent of them, cut into Channels and little Gut- 
 i ters, and fo warbles about thefe Pillars vilibly, 
 i till it arrive at the foot of them. There finding 
 i iflue 3 it falls upon the forelaid Stairs, and covers 
 them all with a thin gliding ftream, which makes 
 an open ftair-cale of Water. Befides, this water 
 fees a number of little Fountains on work, which 
 hand on either fide of thefe Stairs, and defcends 
 by degrees with them : So that in a moment the 
 whole Hill fide is fpouting out water, and filling 
 the Air with a fweet murmur. 
 
 7. Then the Gardiner turning another Cock 
 above, gives, at once, fuch fiore of Wind and 
 Water, to the great Glrandola^ below the Stairs, TheGimn* 
 in the Grotte of Atlas, that it imitateth perfe&ly 
 Thunder, Hail, Rain and Mift. 
 
 3. By this time, the great Statue of the Cen- the Cen- 
 taure, with an Hunters Horn at his Mouth, wind- * aurSi 
 cth it duly, and in perfeft meafure. 
 
 4. Pan alfo plays on his Mouth-Organ tune- Van. 
 
 ; ably. 
 
 5. Whilft the Lion and the Leopard fighting The Lpn 
 j together , fpit angerly in one anothers Faces , and the 
 though all pafs in cold Blood , becaufe in cold Leo h lrds 
 
 ; Water. 
 
 6 . Thefe Waters alfo afford innumerable and 
 | inavoidable wetting places ; as the falfe fteps in the 
 Stairs *, the wetting place behind Pan ; the other 
 wetting place behind the Centaure, and the little 
 tinder-ground lpouts on all fides. 
 
 Nn 2 
 
 7 ; Theii 
 
1 96 ®fje motage of italy. part n. 1 
 
 The Hdl 7. Then the Hall of Apollo is opened, where lit 
 °f Apollo . h e fitting upon Mount Par naff us y and the nine jci 
 Mufes under him in a Circle, with feveral wind tl 
 Inftrutnents in their hands, ftrike up altogether jc< 
 melodioufly - ? whilft an untouched Organ under- w 
 neath the Hill, plays a foft ground to the Mufes p 
 Inftruments. | a 
 
 8. During this Melody, a little round hole in ! c 
 the midft of the Room, blovveth out from be- 1 
 low, fuch a cool and ftiff wind, that bears up 
 a little hollow ball of Copper, a yard from the t 
 ground. Over the Door is this diftich. 1 
 
 ' 'I 
 
 Hue ego migrant Muffs eomitatus Apollo. 
 
 Hie Delphi, hie Helicon, hie mihi Delos erit. 
 
 The water Then being led to fee this Hydraulic Organ, 
 Organ. anc [ to view what Fingers Art had lent unto Wa- 
 ter; I found the Organ to be made thus. Firft, 
 the Pipes are like other Organ Pipes of Lead , 
 and fet in a dole frame, as the manner is, with 
 (lops, and touches to them. Clofe to thefe flops 
 the force of water turns a Wheel , made like a 
 great Drum, and as long as the Organ. Tin’s 
 Wheel hath in it, here and there, divers peices 
 of Brafs, about the thicknefs of an half Crown 
 piece, and juft as broad as the flops of the Or- 
 gan: Thefe Brafs pieces flicking out juft fo far, 
 as to reach the flops in their turning about, and 
 to prefs them down as the Organifts Fingers do , 
 
 ; and being placed here and there, in that Mufical 
 
 diftance, as to ftrike their note in tune, as they 
 turn about leifurely, they altogether compofe a 
 perfed and fweet Harmony ; die Wind-pipe of 
 
 this 
 
Part II, Cfye 3 U 0 £ 8 gC Of ITALY. 197 
 
 this room (mentioned even now) ferveth fuffi- 
 ciencly for Bellows to his Organ, as well as to 
 the wind Inftruments of the Mufe ; and all is 
 caufed by force of Water. But as we were taken 
 with thcfe Water-works, which make this Organ A ten ^ e 
 play in tune, we were fuddenly overtaken with wetting 
 i another Water-work, which playing terribly up- place. 
 on us, put us quite out of tune ; So feldom doth 
 Wind come without Water. 
 
 Having feen this Garden and Pallace, we went MlaLudo? 
 ' to the Villa of Prince Ludoztifio , which is hard vi f ia * 
 by. The Houfe is but little , but the Garden is 
 1 both large and adorned with (lore of Water- 
 works 5 fo tliat if the Gardiner befriend you not, 
 you cannot efcape without being foundly wet. 
 
 One thing I obferved in this Pallace here, that 
 the Curtains of the Beds are wrought with little 
 holes of Needle- work , that the air may enter 
 1 by them, but not the gnats. 
 
 From hence we went to the Villa of Prince Monte- 
 Burghefe^ called Monte-dr agone , from the Dra- dragon*. 
 gon in his Arms. It ftands a mile and an half 
 from the Belvedere , and the way to it* is through 
 curious walks of Laurel-trees. The houfe is 
 ftately, and capable of lodging a King, with his 
 whole Court. The Chambers are neat and fit 
 for both feafons, Winter and Summer. I faw 
 divers good Piffures in them. The laft Supper 
 is of Alberto Vureo’s hand, and hugely efteemed. 
 
 The (lory of Polyphemus is of the hand of Lan- 
 franco. But that which pleafed me beft, was the 
 Hall below, full of the true Pi&ures or famous 
 Men, both for Learning and Arms. Its an ex- 
 cellent School , where a Man may learn much 
 N n l true 
 
198 
 
 Tivoli . 
 
 Oil Ty her. 
 The Cafcx* 
 
 **9 
 
 r$a d' 
 fftb 
 
 Me Of ITALY. Part II. 
 
 true skill in Phyfiogmony , and fee how wor- 
 thies looked. This Hall lets you out into the 
 little neat Garden, \yhereyou find Water-works, 
 wetting fports, and a pretty Girandola . 
 
 Having thus feen Frefcati , we went to Tivoli 
 fome fifteen Miles off. This is an ancient town, 
 (landing upon an Hill fome fifteen miles diftant 
 from Rowe y and in fight of it. It was anciently 
 called Tykr y and held by the Romans for a deli- 
 cious place. We faw here the old Temple, and 
 the houfe of Sibylla Tybmirn . Then we faw the 
 Cafcuta.y much admired here by thofe that never 
 were in Sm(ferland , or at Term. This here is 
 made by the River Amo , which falls fuddenly 
 down a ff my Rock 5 and foams for anger, to 
 fee jts bed grown too fhort for it. Indeed it 
 makes fuch a murmuring complaint againft 
 nature , to the ftones below , that it almoft 
 deafs , like the Catadoups of Nilnty all its neigh- 
 bors. 
 
 Thence we went to the Villa of Cardinal d'Efie. 
 It (lands high and overlooks the Campania of 
 Rom . But the Gardens of this Villa , is that 
 which is here moft looked after. They lie :pon 
 the fide of an Hill, and are placed in four rows 
 of Gardens, with four degrees in the defcent, all 
 furnifhed with Cafcata*^ Grotto * , and other ad- 
 mirable Water-works : the water is let in hither 
 from the River Amo , which runs behind this 
 Hill. For they have tap! the very Hill, and 
 bored the Rock quite through to the River ; fo 
 that the Gardiner hereby turning a great Cock, 
 can let in as much water as fills the Fountains, 
 the Cu[cata*y the Grotto * , the Girundola y and the 
 
 other 
 
Part II. HO?age Of ITALY. 199 
 
 other rare Water-works, Hence is made the 
 great Fountain of Leda ; the Stairs of Water 5 
 the long walk of two Hundred paces , fet all a- 
 long with little ftone Fountains and Bafins, pur- 
 ling in your ears , and carting out little tets of 
 water as you walk along them. And here you 
 (hall fee as rare things for fight and delight, as 
 the world can afford in this land. Here a per- 
 feft reprefentation of old Rome in a perfpedive : 
 Where you fee the Capitol , the Pantheon , the 
 chief Triumphal Arches , the Circos , Theaters , 
 
 Obeli fques ? Maufoleas , and even Tyber it felf: 
 
 Here curious groves of Trees making a green 
 fpring in the midft of Winter: Here cool\Grot- 
 to* and Fountains, making a cold Winter in the 
 midft of Summer. Here "falfe birds chirping up- 
 on true Trees, every one according to his true 
 nature ; and all of them chattering at once at 
 the fight of a falfe Owl, appearing and howling 
 in a Tree. Here curious Grottos , efpecially the 
 Grotte of Nature, adorned with Nymphs, Snells, 
 Starnes, and unavoidable wetting places and Or- 
 gans playing without any Man touching them : 
 There a fearful Girandoh of the Dragons, thun- 
 dering as if they would fet Heaven on Fire with 
 cold Water , and pelt Jupiter from thence with 
 Hailftones. But I wrong thefe things which are ra- 
 ther to be feen than deicribed : And my Traveller 
 will wrong himfelf much, if he ftay not ha e three 
 or four days, to view mmitamnte , thefe won- 
 ders of Art. Having feen thefe famous places , 
 we rerurned to Rome again 5 where we law its 
 chief rarities over and over again 3 for Romam 
 N n 4 juvat 
 
205 cije socage ef it alt* Part il 
 
 juvat u\(±u: viuere , and all Men that have feen 
 Rome only once, defire to fee it again : Hence 
 the Romans taking leave of a Arranger departing 
 from Rom, after his firft Voyage, lav jelling to 
 him, a Rivedcr ci ; that is, Farewel till I fee you 
 again 5 knowing that every Man who hath feen 
 Rome but once, will delire to return again. For 
 my part, I confefs I was of this fentiment in my 
 firft journey 5 but now having feen it five feveral 
 times, I took a long leave of it, and began to 
 think of returning homeward by the wav of Lo- 
 reto and Venice- And that we might be lure to 
 be at Venice at the great folemnitv of the A[cen- 
 fwn , we ,eft Rome the firft week after Eafter. 
 
 We fet out of Rome by the Porta del Popdo 3 
 f*ia Fla - all along the via Flaminia, which reached as far 
 if pip almoft on this fide of Rome, as the via Appia did 
 
 on the other ; that is from Rome to Rimini. Its 
 called Flaminia , becaufe the Conf d Flaminim 
 made it by his Souldiers, in time of peace, left 
 they fhould grow idle, and have their flrength to 
 leek, when the war fhould break out. The reft 
 of the way from Rimini to Bologna , was paved 
 by JEmilim Lepidm the Collegue of Flaminiut , 
 and from him called via JEmilia . 
 
 FontQ Mo- This via Flaminia led us firft to Ponte Molo 
 lo a ( Pons Milvius) a good mile diftant from the 
 
 Gates of Rome , where Conftantin the Great over- 
 came Maxentitis thcTyjrant, and drove him and 
 yyfa' his men into the River. Here it was I faw Tyber 
 firft 5 and I wondered to find it fuch a fmall Ri- 
 ver, which Poets , with their Hyperbolical Ink, 
 had made fwell into a River of the firft rate. 
 
 Following 
 
Part Q. WUt page Of ITALY f 20 1 
 
 " Following on the way, we palled by CaftelNuo - Ato/. 
 tw, Civita , Caftel/ana , V trie oh ^ and fo to Njotk : 
 fo called from the River Nar. It was anciently 
 called Nequinim ( wicked Town) becaufe of the 
 Inhabitants, who being prefled with hunger in a 
 Siege, refolved to kill one another, rather than 
 fall aliye into the hands of their Enemies. They 
 began with their Children, Sifters, Mothers, 
 Wives, and at laft fell upon one another 5 lea- 
 ving the Enemies nothing to triumph over but 
 bare Walls and Alhes. This Town is an ancient 
 Bifhops feat, and St. Juvenalis fwhofe body lv- 
 eth in a neat low Chappel in the Dam) was the 
 firft Bifhop of it. A little out of the Town are 
 feen high Arches , belonging anciently to an A- 
 queduft. 
 
 From hence we went to % a Bilhops Seat Ternu 
 too. It was called anciently Inter amna , becaufe 
 of a world of little Brooks here. This Town 
 ftands in a mod pleafant foyl, and is famous for 
 being the birth-place of Cornelius Tacitus the 
 great Hiftorian. Arriving here betimes, we went 
 four miles off, to fee the famous Cajcata, in the 
 Mountains, which far excells that of Tivoli. 
 
 From Term we went to Spoleto. This is a SpoJeto, 
 neat Town, which giveth denomination to the 
 Dutchy of Spoleto . Anciently the Country here- 
 about was called Umbria , but in aftertimes it 
 was called, the Dutchy of Sfoleto , upon this oc- 
 cafion. The Emperor Jujkn having called Nar- 
 fes (the great General) out of Italy $ he fent Lon- 
 ginus with the Power and Title of Exarch , in his 
 place. This Longinus fettled himfelf in Raven- 
 na % and governed the reft of Italy by his Cap- 
 tain:; 
 
202 «#e motm Of ITALY. Part II. 
 
 tains and Officers called Duces , or Dukes. 
 Hence Rome loft her Confuls , C Narfes and 
 Bafiliws being the two laft Confuls ) and was 
 governed by a Duke too, as well as Spoleto. This 
 Town hath been famous anciently. For holding 
 out againft Hannibal^ even then when he had 
 newly overcame the Romans at the Lake Thrafi- 
 <meno near Perugia ; in which Siege of Spoleto^ 
 happened that famous Prodigy ( which I may 
 call, in a manner, a Metaphyfical trafmutation y 
 rather than a Metamorphofis) mentioned by Lean- 
 dro Alerti , who quotes Livy for it $ of a Man 
 in Spoleto, changed into a Woman in the time of 
 the Siege. Surely it was fome notable Coward, 
 whom Nature diiavowing, degraded him of his 
 Breeches. Hence I remember that Plato faith, 
 
 , Abj effort armorum maxime convenirit ut in muli - 
 12 de z*. erem ex tranJlatMj fic puniatur : a Manjhat 
 gib. cafts away his Arms in a Battle , ought to be punijh - 
 ed. by being changed from a Man into a Woman. 
 ^ u Tnis Town of Spoleto gives the name to the plea- 
 of Spole- fant Valley of Spoleto^ which lies near it. It’s 
 to. above thirty Miles in Compafs, furrounded on all 
 fides with Hills, and thofe Hills are clad with ma- 
 ny fine Towns: People willingly dwelling here, 
 where the Air and the Earth, our chieleft Nurfes, 
 are fo purely good. 
 
 Tolhni. From Spoleto we went to Foligni (FuUgnum in 
 g * Latin ) famous for Confeff 'toners . Not far from 
 
 Ajifium. hence ftands AJJifium , famous for St. Francis , 
 founder of the Francifcan Order ; the Convent 
 here is (lately, and much vifited by devout Pil- 
 Montofah arims : And Montefalco famous for the miracu- 
 (0 ' lqusheart of B. Clara. 
 
 From 
 
Partn. ®$e< 0 *OJ? 8 ge Of ITALY. 203 
 
 From F ologni-, climbing up the Afannins^ we Tokntino* 
 came to Tolentino , famous for the Tomb and 
 Relicks of St. Nicholas Tolentino*. Of this 
 Town was P hi lei p bus a Learned and noble Knight, 
 who defirous of poffeflingof the Greek Tongue in 
 Perfection, was not only content to go into Greece 
 in Pcrfon, and there vifit the ruins of Athens , 
 and the Tombs of the ancient Philofophers * but 
 brought thence with him a Grecian Lady, whom 
 he had married at Constantinople, by wnofe daily, 
 Converfation he might learn the pure Accent of 
 the Gree^Tongue. And this he did in fuch Per- 
 fection, that fie triumph’d over the Grecians them- 
 felves in their own Language. Witnefs that dif- 
 pute which he had with Tmotheu *, a Grecian , a- 
 bout the Force and Accent of a Greeks Word, 
 where both of them growing hot, and betting 
 at laft their Beards, which they both wore then 
 long, Pbilelphus won the others Beard ; and cauf- 
 ed it to be Ihaved off immediately, and kept it 
 in his Family as a Trophey : though the poor 
 Grecian would have redeemed it with a confide- 
 rable Sum of Money. Indeed they defervM both 
 to loofe their Beards, that could be fo hot about 
 fuch a Hairs matter, as the Accent of a Word, 
 
 The Statue of this notable Shaver, victorious 
 Philelphus , I faw here in the Town-houfe. 
 
 From T olentino we went to Macerata , a neat; 
 
 Town of la Marc a 5 and palling through R ecanata^ Maeerata. 
 another handfome Town of the fame Country, j^canato* 
 we came betime to Loreto . . 
 
 Refolving but to flay here one day, we put 
 out all our time to ufc prefently, and ipent that 
 Afternoon, and the next day in viewing exaCfly 
 
 this 
 
~04 €^e Wtya%Z Of ITALY. Part II. 
 
 thisfacred place, which is fo much frequented by 
 the devout Pilgrims of all Chriftendom. This 
 place at firft was nothing but a plain high-way, 
 till the Chamber of our Bleffed Lady ("in which 
 the Angel announced unto her the myftery of 
 the Incarnation of our Saviour in her Womb,) 
 was tranflated thither miraculoufly by die Hands 
 of Angels, about the year 1294, when Infidels and 
 Turki overspreading the holy Land, would o- 
 therwife have profaned that holy place, which e- 
 ven from the Apoftles time bad been turned in- 
 to a Chappel. For my part, though this be no 
 Article of Faith, yet when I remember what was 
 faid in this Chamber, by the Angel to our 
 Lady, to wit, nm eft mpjjibile apud T>etm owie 
 Verb am : nothing is impoftible to God^ I ealily be- 
 lieve tliat he who plac’d this great World it felf 
 in a place where there was nothing before, can ep.- 
 fiiy place a Houfe rhere where there was no houfe 
 before 5 and that he who makes an Angel wheell 
 the Prhmm mobile , and the vaft Machines of 
 the Heavenly Orbs, quite round in four and 
 twenty hours, may eafily make Angels tranflate 
 th's little Chamber of our Lady, from one part- 
 of the World to another. Now that it was fo 
 IfeTurfe- tranflated de facto ^ both ancient Records, lolicl 
 | Jinm his depofitions , conflant tradition, and the belief of 
 Hiftory of ^ almoft of the Catholic Princes of Eu- 
 %he Hou\e ( W [ 1Q | iave f ent r ; c h Prefents hither J do tc- 
 f) ore 0. Befides I can fay this, that the Walls are 
 of fuch a Stone as is not ufed in any Houfe in all 
 the Country about; a great Preemption ,that this 
 Wallis Exotic Again, the holy Houfe here 
 having no foundation in the Ground (as we fee 
 
 plainly Jf 
 
 ■ 
 
Part II. ©o^age of italy* sp$ 
 
 plainly.) it is not credible that it was built here 
 by Men, who would have given fome little Foun- 
 dation to Walls of that thicknefs, andtoaHoufe 
 of that bignefs, efpecially {landing alone in the 
 Fields, as it did at firft, and expofed to all Wea- 
 ther. Add farther, that the very old Painting 
 which is feen upon part of the Wall on the in- 
 fide, (heweth the high Antiquity of this Houfe. 
 
 In fine, the whole Country would have given 
 the Lye to this tradition at nrft, or as foon as Men 
 had begun to cry it up for an Houfe brought thi- 
 ther miraouloufly. 
 
 Now for the holy Houfe it felf, it (lands in the 
 midfl of a great Cnurch, which hath been built Loreto, 
 over it in latter times, for the better conveniency 
 of the Peoples Devotion, and the Church Ser- 
 vice : and round about it more immediately 
 there hath been built a decoration of white Mar- 
 ble, which (lands half a Foot diftant from the 
 holy Houfe, that Men may fee it was not intend- 
 ed 10 much for a Prop, as for a Decoration to it, 
 as alfo to keep it from the Hands of devout Pil- 
 grims, who otherwife would have made no fcru- 
 pie to have been nibling at the Stones of the 
 Walls here, and fo in time have much defac’d 
 the holy Houfe with their Pious Thefts. This 
 Decoratioh is fet round with two rows of ftatues 
 of white Marble, cut by the rareft Workmen of 
 Italy in thofe times, to wit, Sa ^ fovim , BanlineUi , 
 
 San Gallo , Monte Lupo , and others. The lower 
 row of thefe Statues exp refleth the figures of the 
 ancient Prophets : and the other row above ex- 
 •preffeth the Statues of the Sy bills, who Prophe- 
 eyed among the Gentiles, and Heathens, of our 
 
 Saviours 
 
2 o 6 c&e twae of italY. Part U. 
 
 Saviours Birch of a Virgin* and his Paflion* as 
 you may read at large in Lattantiw. 
 
 As for the matter and form of this Houfe, I 
 found it to be of hard* red Stone* like Brick, but 
 far harder and bigger than otir Brick : the form 
 fomewhat fquare about the bignefs of a reafon- 
 able lodging Chamber. There’s but one Window 
 in it, and anciently there was but one Door ; but 
 now there are three ; one at either fide, and one 
 behind the Altar, for the Chaplains that have 
 care of the Lights and Lamps, which are always 
 burning here. Towards the upper end of the 
 Houfe there is an Altar, where the Holy Sacri- 
 fice of Mafs is offered from four in the Morning* 
 until one in the Afternoon. This Altar is of Sil- 
 ver* and was given by Cojmuslh Great Duke of 
 Florence . Before it hangs a Lamp of Gold, as 
 great as two Men could carry. It was the gift and 
 Vow of the Senate of Venice in a Plague time. 
 On either fide of the Walls are fattened two 
 great Candlefticks of pure Gold, made like Cor- 
 mcoPu6 and neatly wrought, they were the gift 
 of tne great Dutcheis of Florence , Magdalena d* 
 A'tftria , as her Arms upon them told me. On 
 the Gofpel fide of the Altar, there’s an old Cup- 
 board within the Wall, in which are yet kept 
 fome little Earthen Ditties, which were brought 
 hither with the Houfe, and therefore Tradition 
 holds them to have been our Saviours Plate, and 
 our Ladies Veflels. Now this Cupboard is adorn’d 
 with a door of Silver given (if I remember well) 
 by a Duke of Parma . In the end of the holy 
 Houfe there is a Window, where it is imagined 
 the Angel entered when he came Embaffador to 
 
part ii. €$e wage of italy. 
 
 the Virgin Mary concerning the great Bufinefs of 
 the Incarnation of his Lord and Mafter. This 
 Window is now cheeked and enriched with Silver. 
 Round about above, hang Silver Lamps ; arid 
 on the fides of the Walls there rer 
 
 was painted when it was firft confecrated into a 
 Chappel in the primitive times. In the very bot- 
 tom of this Chamber, they (hewed me, by a 
 lighted Candle, how that it hath no Foundation 
 in the Ground ; but (lands here juft as if it had 
 been let down from the Air, and fet upon the 
 plain Ground. 
 
 Clofe behind the Alrar runs quite crofs the 
 Chappel, a great iron Grate, through which you 
 fee the Statue of Cedar, of our Blefled Lady, 
 with her Son in her Arms. It’s faid to have been 
 made by St. Luke, and was brought hither, toge- 
 ther with the Gnappel or holy Houfe; It (lands 
 up high in the very farther end of the Ghappel; 
 Irs about four Foot high, and adorned with a par- * 
 ticular kind of Vail hung before it, looking 
 fomething like a Womans Garment. They call 
 thefe Vails here, Vefi, and they are of divers 
 Colors and Stuffs ; but all rich and glittering; 
 witnefs that which I (aw In the Treafury , which 
 was given by the Infanta Ifabella of Flanders , 
 whicn is valued at forty Thoufand Crowns. It’s 
 fet thick with fix rows of Diamonds down be- 
 fore, to the number of three Thoufand; and it’s 
 all wrought over with a kind of Embroidery of 
 little Pearl, fet thick every where within the 
 Flowers with great round Pearl, to the number 
 of twenty Thoufand Pearls in all. Upon the 
 
 very old Painting, wherewith 
 
 Heads 
 
so8 «$e wage Of ITALY. Part, It, 
 
 Heads of our Saviour and our Lady in that 
 Statue, are fet two rich Crowns (clofe Royal 
 Crowns) of Diamonds given by the Queen of 
 France Anne ct Aaftrich.fr Before the Breaft of 
 this Statue hangs a Roval Tofone y or Fleece of rich 
 Jewels, given by a Prince of Tranfihania : a 
 Collar of Rubies, Pearls, and Diamonds, and 
 a rich Crofs hanging at it, all given by Cardinal 
 Sfondrati . Round about the Niche , in which 
 this Statue hands, there goes a clofe row of pre- 
 cious Stones of feveral forts and Luflres, but all 
 
 f reat, both in bulk, in value, and in number $ 
 eing Seventy one, in all, and all together com- 
 pofmga rich Zraof levcral colours. Between this 
 Statue of our Lady, and the Iron Grate, hang 
 a row of Lamps, (about twelve in alD of pure 
 Gold, and all as big as a Mans Head, one where- 
 of exceeds the reft in curious Workmanfnip 5 
 and it was the gift of Sigifmnd , King of Polonia • 
 All the reft of the Chappel, where thofe Lamps 
 hang, is loaden with the rich Vows,andPrefents 
 of great Princes. Thefe I yet remember : to 
 wit, the Image in Silver of the eldeft Son of Fer- 
 dinand the Third, Emperor, with a Chain of Di- 
 amonds about it. An Angel of Silver, hold- 
 ing out, and as it were, prefenting to our Lady a 
 Child of Gold in Swathing-Bands, upon a Sil- 
 ver Cufhion. It was the gift of the aforefaid 
 Queen of France, being brought to Bed of the 
 Dolphin) now Lem 5 the XIIII. The Pi&ure of 
 this Prince of Conde in Silver kneeling, a vow of 
 his Mother when he went firft to W ar. The Bufto 
 of St. Barbara in Silver, fet with Jewels; the gift 
 of an Arch Duke of Auftria. Another Bufto 
 
Part ir. cije twopage of italy. 
 
 2G9 
 
 of St. Girione , fet with Jewels alfo ; a gift of a 
 Queen of Bohemia* The Statue of St. Ladiflaus 
 in Silver ; the gift of Ladiflaus the IV. King of 
 Polonia . A fine kneeling Stool or Pew of Silver, 
 given by Cardinal Colonna^ with a world of o- 
 ther Silver Prefents, wherewith this place is fil- 
 led. In fine $ I favv there the very Chimney 
 which was anciently in this Chamber; its under 
 the Statue of our Lady , and now adorned with 
 Silver. > 
 
 Having feen the Holy Houfe or Chappel, we T ^ e fret* 
 were led the next Morning int6 the Treafury J UT ^ 
 where rnahy other rich prefents are kept. This 
 Treafury is a large Room forty paces long, and 
 about fifteen wide, like a longChappel vaulted and 
 Dainted over head. On the left hand of this 
 Loom, (land great Cupbords, which opening a- 
 3pve , have little Nets of ftrong Wyar before 
 them, which let in eyes to behold, but keep off 
 hands from touching the ineftimable Treafure 
 Contained within them. Some of thefe prefents 
 were given by Popcs^ fome by Kings, Queens, 
 
 Princes, Cardinals, Generals, Ladies and Noble- 
 men of feveral Nations. In one Cupboard they 
 fhewed us a wholefcrvice for the Altar, that 1 % 
 
 Crucifix, Candleftics, Cruets, Bafin and Eure, 
 and the foot of the Chalice, all of Amber. In 
 another, fucli a whole fervice of Agate, _ Ano- 
 ther fuch a Service all of Lapit Lazuli, given by 
 Count Olivares. Another all of Coral given by 
 the Arch-duke Leopold . In another, fuch a Ser- 
 vice in Chryftal. In another fuch a Service $f 
 Silver, with Flower-pots neatly wrought , given 
 by Don Thadeo Barherino , Prefed: of Borne. In a- 
 
 Go 
 
 nother^ 
 
210 
 
 t&otage of italy. Part ii . 
 
 nother, a (lately Crucifix ol liberty adorned with 
 many curious Pictures in miniature , given by 
 Pope Clement the VIII. In another, the Spread- 
 Eagle of Diamonds, the gift of Mary, Queen of 
 Hungary . T wo Crowns of Gold enriched with 
 Pearl : The gift of a Queen of Vologda. A Crown 
 of Gold fet with great Rubies of extraordinary 
 fize ; the gift of a Dutchefs of Nevers- In ano- 
 ther the Crown and Scepter of Gold enamelled, 
 given by Chriftina Queen of Swede, at her firfl 
 coming into Italy . In another , the enamelled 
 Pigeon, with a rich Jewel in its Bread: , the gift 
 of the Prince Ludouifio. The heart enriched 
 with Diamonds , with a great Ernraud in the 
 middle of it, of an exceflive bignefs, the gift of 
 Henry III. of France , at his return out of Polog- 
 nia . In another, the rich enamelled three cor- 
 nered Jewel, with the Pi&ureof the Blefled Vir- 
 gin in the middle of it , the Prelent of two Bo- 
 hemian Counts and a Gentleman ; who being 
 thrown out of a Window in Prague , by the Cal- 
 I'inifts, and recommended themfelves to God’s 
 prote&ion ? and our Ladies interceffion , fell 
 down all tnree gently , without the lead hurt: 
 Their Names were Count Martinth , Count Sla- 
 vata, and a Gentleman that was Secretary to 
 Count Slavata, who being thrown out the lafL 
 and falling upon the Count his Mailer , cryea 
 him mercy for his rudenefs in falling upon him $ 
 a great argument that they were little hurt, when 
 they could Complement with one another There 
 are now three Pillars before that houfe in Prague , 
 out of which thefe three Men were thrown. In 
 another Cupboard I law feveral great Chains of 
 
Part iL mo page of italy. 
 
 Gold, given by great Men ; and fome of thefe 
 by great Generals. In another, a great Heart of 
 Gold, a£ big as- both a Mans hands, enamelled 
 with blew, and fee on the outfide of it, with 
 thefe words in pretty big Diamonds, JESUS, 
 MARIA, and within it are the Pictures of 
 the Bleffed Virgin on one fide, and of the Queen 
 of England , Henrietta Maria,) on the other; the 
 Heart opening it ftif into two leaves. In another, 
 a neat little Heart alfo, of Gold, enamelled and 
 fet with Jewels, the Prefent of Madam Cbriftina , 
 Dutchefs of Savoy ; and Sifter to the forelaid 
 Queen of England , with her own and her Sons 
 Pifhire in it In another , the Pi&ure of our 
 Bleffed Lady, with her Son Jefns in her Arms , 
 cut in a great Pearl, and let in Gold. In ano- 
 ther Cupboard , I faw a Picture of our Bleffed 
 Lady , wrought curioufly in Indian Feathers of 
 feveral colors , and cut ftiort as plufh 5 which 
 Picture changeth colors as often as you change 
 its fituation, or your own Pofture. In another, 
 a great cuftodia of Chryftal, given by Cbriftina 
 of Tufcany. In another, a cuftodia of Lag is La - 
 zulu In another, a Diamond valued at twelve 
 Thoufand Crowns, the gift of the Prince d?Oria , 
 in Genua. Another of almoft equal price , gi- 
 ven by a German Prince. In another, a curious 
 Book of Gold covered with Diamonds, with the 
 leaves of Gold, but rarely painted in miniature, 
 the gift of a Duke of Bavaria* In another, die 
 Samaritans Well of Gold, with Pictures of our 
 Saviour, and the Samaritan Woman in Gold al- 
 io ; the Prefent of Cardinal Brancaccio . In di- 
 vers other Cupboards, I law a world of Jewels 
 
 O o a of 
 
2 1 2 ©O^age Of ITALY. Part II. 
 
 of all forts, which confounded my Memory as 
 well as dazled my eyes. In other great Cupboards, 
 they {hewed me excellent Church Ornaments , 
 of mod rich fluffs. Embroidered with Silver and 
 Gold, but one there was (to wit, a whole corn- 
 pleat Suit for the Altar, Prieft, Deacon and Sub- 
 deacon) fo thick covered with an Embroidery 
 of Pearl, and thofe no little ones , that I could 
 not perceive the ground of the fluff for Pearl : 
 All thefe were the Prefents of Catherine Tjomois - 
 iy, Wife of the Chancellor of Polognia ; and 
 they are valued at an Hundred and thirty Thou- 
 fand Crowns. I know not whether this fuit of 
 Church Ornaments, or that deferibed above in 
 the Popes Sacnjly , be the richer. 
 
 On the other fide of this Room , are great 
 Windows, betwixt every one of which 5 are fet 
 upon long Tables, divers great Towns, fo pre- 
 tijfelyexpreffed in Silver, with their Walls, Ram- 
 parts, Churches, Steeples, Houfes, Streets, Wind- 
 mills, &c. That whofoever had once feen thefe 
 Towns, would eafily know them again in their 
 Pictures here, they were all vows and gifts, and 
 all ingenious German work, as well as German 
 Towns. 
 
 This is all I can remember, though nor half 
 I faw in this Treafury . And having thanked the 
 civil Prieft that {hewed us this fine place, we went 
 out again into the great Church ; where I obfer- 
 ved upon the great Pillars that make the lies of 
 this Church, the Hiftory of the Holy Houfe en- 
 graven in Stone , or written in Parchment in a 
 fair Text-hand, in twelve or thirteen feveral Lan- 
 guages 
 
Part ii. suopage of italy. 215 
 
 guages, for the ufe of the Pilgrims who flock hi- 
 ther from all Countries. 
 
 Going out of the Church, I faw before the 
 Church door the Statue in Brafs of Sixtus QSin- 
 twsy and a (lately Fountain. 
 
 From hence we went to fee the Cellar of the 
 Holy Houfe, which furnifhed with Wine, not 
 only the Govemours Houfe, the Canons and 
 the Church-men, the Gpllege of the Penitent i* 
 aries , the Conyent of the CaPucins , the Semina," 
 rifts , the Hofpital and all tnofe that belong to 
 the Church any way 5 but alfo furnifhed all Pil- 
 grims, yea even all Princes, Cardinals, Bifhops, 
 Embafladors , and great Men of known qua- 
 lity, with Wine, as long as they (lay here up- 
 on Devotion. For this reafon there belong 
 large revenues to this Church ; and this Cel- 
 lar is abfolutely the bed I faw in Italy. The Vef- 
 fels are hugely great , and not to be removed 
 from hence. They have a way to take out a 
 piece of their broad ficfes , and’ fo make them, 
 clean. They are all Jiooped with Iron , and 
 fome of them are fo contrived , that they can 
 draw three feveral forts of Wine out of one Vef- 
 fel , and by the fame tap. The experience is 
 pretty, but the wine is better. Now whether 
 thefe V eflels be too many, or the revenues of the 
 Holy Houfe too great, you may eafily conjefture, 
 when fo many perfons are fed daily, as I men- 
 tioned above, and fo many Thoufand Pilgrims 
 pafs fo frequently that way. Turfelims * writes, * in hit 
 that between Eafter and VVhitfuntide, there Hijl.ofix- 
 have flocked thither, fometimes five, fometimes rm 3* 
 fix Hundred Thoufand Communicants ; and in 2$# 
 
 Oo 3 two 
 
214 
 
 TheApothe. 
 
 cmes-Jhop, 
 
 Anectu* 
 
 €t)t SO^age 0f ITALY. Part It 
 
 two days '{pace in Sept mb, y ("about the Feaft of 
 the Nativity of oar Bleffed Lady ) there have 
 appeared two Hundre: Thoufand CcmmunL 
 cants, mold of which were Pilgrims. 
 
 Having refrefhed our felves in this Cellar, we 
 went to the Apothecaries-fhop , belonging to the 
 holy Houle alio; and 'hirnifliing Phyfic to rick 
 Pilgrims for nothing. There we faw thole fa- 
 mous Pots, which make even Phyfic it felf look 
 fwectly, and draw all furious (dangers to vifit 
 them. For round about a great inner -Shop , 
 (land Pots oi a great fizc, painted by Raphael 
 Vrbins own hand, and therefore judged by Vir« 
 tuofi to be of great value. Witnefs thole four 
 only, on which are painted the four Evangelift^ 
 for the which were offered by a French hmbaffa- 
 dor in his Kings name, four Pots c; Gold of the 
 fame bigndfs, and were refufed. Brave Raphael , 
 whofe only touch of a Finger could, like, 
 
 turn Gall i- pets into Gold. B>4 as tk,dias his 
 Statues of Clay were as much adored anciently, 
 as his Golden ones . So Raphaels hand is as much* 
 admired in the Apothecarfes Shop of Loreto , as 
 in the Vatican Pal lace of Rome. Thefe Pots v/ere 
 given to the holy Houfe by a Duke of Vrbin , 
 whofe Subject Raphael was , and for whom he 
 had made them with more than ordinary art. 
 
 He that defires to know more of Loreto , let 
 him read Turfelinm his Hiftouy of Loreeo . For 
 my part, my time being out, I muff be gone. 
 
 Taking therefore Horfe again, we made to- 
 wards Venice , and (aw thefe places in our way. 
 
 Ancora , the Capital Town of the Marc a, and 
 one of the bed Havens in the Oulph : correfpon- 
 
 ding 
 
Part ii. tutorage of italy. 
 
 ding with Slavonia, Greece , Dalmatica , and ma- 
 ny other Countries. Its built upon a Promon- 
 tory, and back’d up land-way, with a good Ca- 
 ttle, The Haven was built by the Emperor Tra- 
 jan, whofe Triumphal Arch is yet lecn here, 
 and is the Chief Monument of this Town. Here 
 is a Molo ftriking two Hundred paces into the 
 Sea. Vim II. whiltt he flayed here to animate in 
 Perfon, the great expedition againtt the Turkey 
 which he had zealoufly given beginning to, died. 
 
 In the Vaults of the great Church, are kept ma- 
 ny Saints Bodies and pretious Relics. Its called 
 St. Ciriaco's Church, and it is the Cathedral. - 
 
 From Ancona we went to Senegallta, all along Seneg&Uti, 
 the Sea fide. This Town is fo called from the 
 Semites Gallic. Its a very neat and pleafant 
 Town, (landing in a fweet Air. Its a Bifhops 
 Seat. Here began anciently Gallia Cifalpina. 
 
 From hence we went to Tam (Fanm fortune) Fano. 
 becaufe of the Temple of Fortune built here in 
 memory of a Battle won by the Romans, near 
 the River Metaurm , hard by where Afdrubal, 
 Hannibal 9 s Brother, was flak. * Here’s an ancient 
 Triumphal Arch yet (landing. Not far from 
 this Town alfo, Narfetes overcame Totila. Its 
 an Epifcopal Town. 
 
 From hence we went to, Pefaro (landing al loPejaro. 
 mQft pleafantly by the Sea nde. Its called Pefa- 
 ro , and P efaurum in Latin, from the weighing 
 here of the Gold which the Romans , befeiged in 
 the Capitol, fent hither to be payed to the Gauls, 
 faith Servius. It once belonged to the Dukes of 
 Vrbin , but for want of Heirs Male, fell to the 
 Church by right From the Bridge of Stone, 
 
 O o 4 which 
 
 Vi 
 
ai6 €f)t CUO^agC Of ITALY, Part II. 
 
 which is here, begins the Marc a d’ Ancona. The 
 Air here is thought by Pranofcofifts, to be the beft 
 in Italy ; as are alio the Figgs here. 
 
 Catholic*. From hence we palled by Catholic a ,a poor Vil- 
 lage, adorned with nothing but a {lately Nam , 
 and an Infcription upon the wall of the Chap- 
 pel, rendering you the reafon why this Town is 
 called Catholica , which was this. When the 
 Emperor Conftantim , a fierce Arrian , ufed vio- 
 lence to the Fathers that had been affembled in 
 the Council of Ay mini ( a Town not fat off.) 
 and would not fuffer them to depart (their bull- 
 nefs being done, which they came for , to wit, 
 the Catholic Faith of the Council of Nice being 
 here afferted and confirmed) till they had com- 
 plyed with the Emperor’s fa£tion, conlifting of 
 Arrians 5 Many of them too weakly (being wea- 
 ry of fo long a flay from their Seats) fell to an 
 unworthy compliance with the Arrian Party. 
 Which the zealous Orthodox Fathers feeing, left 
 ’Rimini , and came into this little Village, be- 
 caufe they would not communicate with the Ar- 
 rians : Whereupon t&is Village got the name of 
 Catholica , becaufe the true Catholic and Ortho- 
 dox Fathers retired hither. If you ask me then, 
 whether this Council of Rimini were good or no 5 
 I anfwer you, that the Council was good and Or- 
 thodox, and confirmed the Faith of the Nicene 
 Council againlf the Arrians $ which was the bu- 
 finefs it was called about. And what happened 
 afterwards when the Council was ended by the 
 opprellion of the Emperor, is not to be imputed 
 to the Council, but to feme weak Fathers, as an 
 error of Convention, and a too unworthy Com- 
 pliance:. From 
 
Part n. cfce borage of italy. 217 
 
 From Catholtca we went to Rimini , called A- zQmm. 
 rminm in Latin, this is a pretty Town, in which 
 the forefaid Council was kept. In the Market 
 place I faw the Stpng (Tet now upon a fedeftal) 
 upon which C^efar flood when he made a 
 Speech to his Soldiers , to make them refolve to 
 march up to Rome. Hard by, in the fame Mar- 
 ; ket place, flands a little round Chappel, famous 
 for a miracle wrought there by St. Antony of Par 
 dua, in confirmation of the real Prefence. The 
 Hiftory is too long, but feen here painted round 
 the Chappel, with a caft of an eye. . . 
 
 From hence we went through Cefena an Epif- 
 copal Town ; and Forli , Form Liz>ii another Bi- ' 
 
 fhops Seat ; in the way before we came to Cefena 7 
 we faw an old Infcription in ftone , fet up by a 
 little Rivers fide , which I found to be the very 
 Decree of the old Senate of Rome^ forbidding in 
 general, any Officer or Souldier whatfoever, to 
 pafs over the Rubicon^ upon pain of being Judg* 
 ed an enemy to his Country, and guilty of high 
 Treafon. By which words I gathered, .that this 
 little River here now called Tiftatello, was R ubi- Rubicon* 
 con , mentioned in the Decree of the Senate; 
 and that this decree pointed at Juliws Ctefar and 
 his Army. Yet Caefar being refolved to march 
 up to Rome with his Army,- made a Speech to his 
 Soldiers ; and finding a compliance in their refo- 
 lutions, pafied over Rubicon , crying out : Jaffa, 
 eft alea : We muft now either jinhjr frrim , and fo 
 paffed on to Rome, which he foon poffefled him- 
 felf of, and then of the world. When once pow- 
 erful Men draw their Swords, they throw away 
 their Scabbards; and when once they have often? 
 
m 3 ®^e Of ITALY. Part IL 
 
 ded beyond pardon, they ftrike at the very 
 Throat of authority 5 running upon that horrid 
 m.ixime^ that feeler a fceleribm funt tuenda. 
 
 From Forli we palled ok the right hand of 
 Faenz.^ Farventia in Latin (leaving the way on 
 the left hand , which leads to ImoU and Bolog- 
 nia) Faenz.a is a neat Town, as all the others we 
 had pafjTed by before : But having no confidera- 
 ble thing In it, but white earthen Pots, called 
 Velfels of Faenz.a y we flayed not long in it, but 
 made towards Ferrara , In the way I found lit- 
 tle worth obfervatioo, except only , that as we 
 travelled one night fomewhat late for coolnefs, I 
 faw millions of little flies in the air, carrying a 
 bright light about them like Glow-worms. They 
 continued all the way to our Inn for two hours 
 after Sun fet, efpecially upon the Corn Fields 
 and high Grafs. It was huge pretty me thought, 
 to fee Heaven upon Earth almoft , and flying 
 Stars conduit us to our Lodging. A Poet would 
 have (worn by all the Cords of Apollo's Harp, 
 that Jupiter then was making Vulcan pave the 
 Vault of Heaven with a Mofaic work of Dia- 
 monds, and that thefe were only the fparks that 
 fell from him : Or that he was repairing the old 
 Caufey ol the Via LaSea with frefh Stars, and 
 that thefe were the old ones which he had thrown 
 away. I catched fome of thefe fiery Flies, to fee 
 where it was that they carried their little Lan- 
 terns and Candles , and I *found it was in their 
 l tails. The Country People call them Lucciole. 
 
 *26™' And I believe, thefe are thofe Flies which Pliny 
 
 Arl/a.jJe call Cicindelat , and Arifiotle calls 
 
 p&rtib.ani- t 
 
 make .3. Palling 
 
Part II, mot age of italy. 2 19 
 
 Palling thus along we £ame late to a little Vil- 
 lage, and the 'next morning betimes to Ferrara* Ferrara: 
 This Town of Ferrara was once the Seat of a So- 
 vereign Prince of the houfe of Efte, but for want 
 Heirs Male, after the death of Alfonfo the II. it 
 fell to the Church, and Clement the VIII, took 
 poffdlion of it in Perfon , by an Entry and Ce- 
 remony, worthy of the Pen of Cardinal Benti- 
 f voglia who was there. The Town hands in a 
 Plain, carrying above four Miles compafs ; it 
 hath a good citadel , firong Walls, Ramparts, 
 Bulworks, and a good Garrifon of Soldiers. Here 
 are fair ftreets, and very handfom Pallaces ; but 
 people are fomewhat .thin. The things which I 
 law here were thefe. The gari- 
 
 1. The Dorno^ Ancient rather than Beautiful. tiet * 
 
 2. Over againft it, two Statues inBrafs, of 
 the Princes of the Houfe of Efte ; the one Duke j 
 the other M.frquk ; the one Sitting, the other on 
 Horfeback. 
 
 3. Behind thefe Statues is the Houfe of Juftice, 
 or Town-houfe. 
 
 4. The ftrong Pallace of the Dukes anciently, 
 is in the middle of the Town, .with a great Mote 
 about it; the Court within is painted with the Pi- 
 ctures of all the Dukes of Ferrara, here the Popes 
 Legate lyeth. 
 
 5. The Diamond Pallace, as they call it, is of The Dk* 
 
 white Marble without , whofe Stones are all cut ™ oncl Fab 
 Diamond ways, into lharp Points. Having feen • 
 
 it without, I longed to fee it wjjhin, hoping that 
 a Diamond Pallace without, would be all Car- 
 buncle and Pearl within. But I was deceiv’d ; for 
 - entring in, I found nothing worth the Pains of 
 
 going 
 
Ariofto’f 
 
 Tomb. 
 
 Sao ®Jje W Of ITALY. Part II. 
 
 going up the ugly Stairs, and the poor Woman 
 that kept, the Houfetold me as much 3 as well as the 
 cold Kitchin. I wonder the Matter of this Houfe 
 doth not keep it always lock'd up, that Strangers 
 might value it by its outfide only, which is ad- 
 mirable indeed. 
 
 6. TheMonaftery of the BenedicUns isftately f 
 in whofe Church I found the Tomb of Ariojio , 
 Author of the long Pom called Orlando Furiofo. 
 He was efteemed,inhis Life-time,a great Poet, and 
 as fuch was Crowned Laureat Poet, by the Empe- 
 ror Charles the V, but he was oftentimes feen, 
 even in the Streets, to be too much tranfported 
 with Poetic Fury, and to become Ariojio Furiofo, 
 while he was penning his Orlando . He had a rich 
 Vein, butapoorPurfe ; and while his head was 
 crowned with Laurel , his Breeches were often 
 out behind, as well as thofe of Torquato Tajfo y 
 of whom Balzac faith, that though he were a 
 good Poet, yet he had des fort mauvaifes chaufes. 
 
 7 . The Carthufians Church is neat and full of 
 good Pi£tures. 
 
 8 . The Church and Convent of the Carmelites 
 is alfo neat, in whofe Library I faw a Manufcript 
 of John Bacon , and another of Learned Thomas 
 TValdenfis , both Englifhmen , and both learned 
 Men. 
 
 rh Aade- Here’s an Academy of Wits called Gli E'iva- 
 pfofwiti. tu Of this Town was Hyeronymm Savonarola , 
 The Learn - Author of the Triumphus Crucis ; and Baptifta 
 i Mw * Guarini Author of the Paflor Fido. 
 
 He that defires to know the Hiflory of Ferrara , 
 let him read Giovanni BaptiftaPigna, who hath 
 written of it, ex Profejfo « 
 
 From 
 
part ii. dotage of italy. 221 
 
 From Ferrara we went to Padua in two cfays, The Hip* 
 the Seafon being good and dry 5 otherwife, in ry * 
 Winter, it’s too deep a way to go by Land; there- 
 fore moft Men embark at Ferrara, and go by’ 
 
 Boat to Venice. The firft day pafling over the 
 Po in a Boat at Franc alino, we reached Kuigo the firft 
 Town of the Venetian (late. This Town is built 
 near where Adria ("from whence the Adriatic Sea 
 is called,) once flood, and almoft upon its ruins- 
 It’s governed by a Podefta and a Cafitano Grande y 
 as the other Towns of St. Mark^ are. Of this 
 Town was Codim Rhodiginws, a Man of various 
 Learning, as his Books (hew; and Bonifacius 
 Bonifacit another learned Humanift. 
 
 From Bum we arrived at Padua betimes, but 
 the defire or feeing Venice, made us haften away 
 the next day; deferring to fee Padua till our re- 
 turn from Venice. 
 
 Embarking then betimes in the Morning at 
 Padua in a Piotta, a neat little Barge, taken to our 
 felves,and much more honorable than to go in the 
 great Tilt-Boat, where all forts of loufy Ruffians 
 and idle People throng vou up, we faw a world 
 of (lately Pallaces and Gardens, (landing upon 
 the Banks of the River Bronta , and (hewing us 
 that we were approaching to a great Town in- 
 deed. 
 
 Some five Miles (hort of Venice , we left the 
 River and the Horfes that drew us, and rowed 
 through the (hallow Sea which environeth Venice 
 on all fides, for above five Miles (pace. This 
 low Sea is called here La Laguna ; and the Water ULcl n 
 is fo (hallow that no great (hips can come to Ve- ^ ma * 
 nice : little V effels come by certain Channels which 
 
 arc 
 
22a )t Of IT ALY. Part II. 
 
 are * well fortified with Cafties, Forts and Chains, 
 fo-tlhatnoMancan come to Venice, but with leave, 
 or knocks. We arrived there betimes, and all 
 r.he way we admired to fee fuch a (lately City, 
 lying as it were at Anchor, in the midft of the 
 Sea ; and (landing fixed where every thing elfe 
 o . . floats. 
 
 A 'r Venice at firfl: was nothing but a company of 
 * little dry Spots of Ground, which held up their 
 Heads in a (hallow Sea, furnilhed by feven Rivers, 
 Piava, Sila , Livenza, Vo, Adige , Brent a , and 
 Tagliamnto , which run into it. To thefe little 
 dry Spots of Ground, Filhermen repaired anti- 
 ently for their Fifhing, and built little Cottages 
 upon them. But afterwards Italy being overrun 
 by Goths s Huns, and Vicegoths, divers rich Men, 
 from feveral parts of Italy, as well as from Padua, 
 fled hither with the bed of their Goods, to fave 
 themandthemfelvesin thefe poor Cottages, un- 
 known to thofe barbarous Nations : and finding 
 by Experience this to be a fafer place than any 
 elfe, they began to provide againft thofe frequent 
 Difafiers of barbarous Incurfions, by building 
 good Houfes here. This many Men did and 
 made at lad a fine Town here, and greater than 
 her Mother Padua. This happened twelve Hun- 
 dred years ago, which makes Venice glory, that 
 lhe is the antienteft Republic in Europe. To 
 • which purpofe I cannot omit to tell you here a 
 pretty Story which was told me in Paris of a 
 Venetian Embaflador, who redding in the Court 
 of France , and finding himfelf in a vifit, where 
 there were many Ladies, was ferioufly asked by 
 a grave old Lady, (who heard him (peak muen 
 
Part ii. ©towage of italy. o ^ 5 
 
 of the Seignory of Venice) whether the Seignory ' 
 of Venice were fair or no? Yes Madam faid he > beUc 
 one of the faireft in Europe- Is fhe great faid the - ^ 
 Lady again ? Yes Madam faid the Embaffador, 
 fhe is great enough. Is file rich faid the Lady v F(l n 
 ( , Worth Millions replied the Embaffador. Me- f i c y ? 
 thinks then faid the Lady, fhe would be a good 
 Match for Monjieur the King’s Brother : yes Ma- Quelled 
 dam, replied ne again, but that fhe is a little too£ e ^ e . 
 old. Why how old is fhe I pray you, faid the 
 Lady ? Madam, anfwered the Embaffador, fhe 
 is about twelve Hundred years old. At which 
 the Company finding, the good Lady perceiv’d 
 her Error with blufhing, and Monfieur was un- 
 married for that prefent. Indeed Cosmography . 
 and Topography are hard words ; and as theola 
 faying is, ahud Sceptrum, aliudpje£frim y aLook- 
 ing-Glafs is not the fame thing with a Map. v „ 
 
 As for Venice now, 5 tis one of the faireft Ci- 
 ties in Europe , and called by the Proverbial Epi- 
 thete, Venetia la Kiccha y Venice the Rich. It’s 
 well nigh eight Miles in Compafs, and in form . 
 fomething like a Lute. It hath no Wall about 
 it to defend it, but a Mote of Water, that is 
 five Miles broad, which furrounds it. It hath 
 no Suburbs, but a world of little Hands clofe by 
 it. The ftreets of Venice are all full of Water * 
 and for this reafon they ufe no Coaches here, 
 but vifit in Boats. 
 
 Thefe Boats they call here Gondolas^ and there ThiGon* 
 are above twenty Thoufand of them. For be- Aolxs% 
 fides, that every noble Venetian or rich Man, 
 hath two or three of his own ^ there are always 
 a World of diem (landing togedier at feverai 
 
 public 
 

 -724 borage Of ITALY. Part It. 
 
 public Wharfs ; fo that you need but cry out. 
 Gondola , and you have them lanch outprefently 
 to you : thefe Gandola’s are pretty neat black 
 Boats like our Oars, holding fix Perfons conveni- 
 ently upon the Seats, which are covered over 
 head with a thick black Cloath, with Windows • 
 at either lidc, which in Winter defends you from 
 the V V ind , and in Summer from the Sun. The 
 multitude of thefe Gondola's help to employ a 
 great many poor Mai, and to make a world of 
 Mariners . for public Service, in time of need. 
 Ordinary people here may go up and down the 
 Town by little back A Iky s, which they call 
 here C alley thefe by winding up and down, and 
 delivering them over feveral Bridges, hugely 
 puzzle Strangers at firft. Of thefe Bridges there 
 bridges in are above 1 500 in Venice , all of Stonc^md of one 
 Venice* Arch reaching from one fide of the Street to the 
 other, while the Gondola's run under the Arch. 
 
 The jRjaJto. The greateftof thefe Bridges is called the Rialto , 
 built over the Canal Grande , all of white Marble* 
 
 • This is one of the fined Bridges in Europe, be- 
 caufe of the one Arch only, and of the vaft 
 widenefs and height of that Arch ; the Channel 
 here being as wide as any Man can throw a Stone. 
 This Bridge bears upon its Back two rows of 
 Shops, and little Houles covered with Lead ; and 
 left this great weight fhould make the Foundation 
 fink, they built upon Piloties , that is, great trees 
 rammed into the Ground, to the number of fix 
 Thoufand in all In fine, this Bridge coft two 
 Hundred and fifty Thoufand Crowns. It were 
 a fine fight to fee, in an hard Froft, the ftreers of 
 Venice all frozen, and People walking up and down 
 
 upon 
 
Part ii. of italy. 225 
 
 upon Diamond Streets, or a Chrytlal Pavement. 
 
 In the mean time it’s no unpleahng light to fee 
 the Streets full of Water, and fuch barely Pal- 
 laces on either fide : efpecially rhe Canal Grande, 
 which runs quite through the middle of the Ci- 
 ty, and is hedged in on either iide with (lately 
 Houles; among which are counted two Hundred 
 Pallaces fit to jLodg any King. The whole City 
 hath in it Thirty two Monafteries of religious 
 Men, Twenty eight of religious Women; Seven- 
 ty Parilh Churches ; and about an Hundred and 
 fourfeore Thoufand Inhabitants. 
 
 Having faid thus much of the Situation of 
 Venice , I will now fpeak of the Government, 
 Strength, Riches, Religion , and Intefeft of this 
 Republiek, and then fall to the Particulars I faw v 
 in it. 
 
 For the Government here, iPs purely Anfto- The Go* 
 cratical , by the D oge, and the Nobles. The 
 great Council confifts of two Thoufand Gentle- ^he great 
 men. This is the Bafts of the State Government ; Loum 6 
 becaufethat out of thefe are chofen all the other 
 Magiftrates, Podefta Generals , € opium , Gran- 
 di, Providetori Generali , Embajfadors , See* This 
 great Counfel affembles frequently in one great 
 Room of the Doge's Pallace, where there are 
 Seats for them all, and where Bufinelfe are voted 
 by Baloting ; that is, by putting in a clofe dou- 
 ble box of two Colors, a, little Ball about the 
 bignefs of a Button, which is made fo foft, that 
 no Man can hear into whether part of the dou- 
 ble Box the Ball falls. Every Gentleman in this 
 great Council hath two of thefe Balls given him, 
 one white, and the other red : the one (ignifying 
 
 P p the 
 
226 <ojo?age of italy. Pa^ii; 
 
 the Affirmative vote, the other the Negative: fo 
 that they give their votes fecretly, ana without 
 being known afterwards for what party they flood, 
 or without giving example to others to follow 
 them in their Votes, as leading Men would do ; 
 and fo draw all into Fa&ion and Cabals. 
 
 To run through all the Magiftrates and Officers 
 of this Republic, the Pregiadi^ the favi Qrandi % 
 the favi diTerraferma, the favi de gli Ordtm y 
 the Configlio de died , dec. would be a work tpo 
 long for a Traveller, and tpo tedious for my 
 Reader. Twillonly fpeakof theSupreamMagi- 
 'kDoge. flrate here, the Doge s or Prince as they call him, 
 who reprefents the Head of this Republic. He is 
 nowchofenby the whole Senare, and is for Life : 
 heretofore he was Hereditary, till the year 1032. 
 The manner of Balotting in choofing the D oge^ 
 is fuch a puzzle, that 1 hadrather you fhould read 
 it in SabellicM^ than I give my felf the trouble of 
 deferibing it.For the mod part, they chufe a Man 
 well ftricken in years, and one who hath made his 
 Circle of Embaffies: that is, hath been fifteen Years 
 Embaflfador in the chief Courts of Europe , three 
 Years a piece in every one : and fo acquired unto 
 himfelf a perfect knowledgof all States, and State 
 affairs. Being chofen once, he cannot ftir out of 
 the Laguna without leave. Nor at home can he 
 do all things of his own Head ; but with the ad- 
 vice of his Counfellers, who are fix, chofen out 
 of the moff honourable Gentlemen of the City. 
 Thefe fix fit with him in Counfel, and execute 
 with him all Bufineffes, as to give Audience, read 
 Letters, grant Priveledges, and the like : which 
 cannot be executed by the Doge^ if there be not 
 
Part il. C^e mo^se Of ITALY. 227 
 
 our Counfellers with him 5 and yet they can exe- 
 cute. and a£t without the Doge $ and it’s they that 
 have Authority to prepofe in the great Council, 
 things of concern. In giving Suffrages, his Suf- 
 frage is no more than an ordinary Senators in the 
 Senate ;but he hath two Voices in the great Coun- 
 cil. The Doge and thefe Counfellers are called 
 II Colkgio y but then in main public affairs there 
 enter into this Council, Six Sarvt Grami> /he Sa - 
 'vi di Terra Ferma , five Saui degli Or dim , and 
 TreC ifi de Quaranta Crimmli. This full Cob 
 ledg diftributes Bufinefs to the other Magiftrates 
 to be handed, having been headed here. 
 
 The Habit of the Doge is ancient, and hath 
 fomething c>f the Pontifical Habit of it. His Pomp, 
 
 Train, and Lodging are all Princely ; and in pub- 
 lic Functions he hath carried before him the eight 
 Silver Trumpets, the great Vmrella of Cloth of 
 Tiflue, the Cuftion, the Chair, the gilt S word, and 
 a white wax Candle carried by a Child* All Let- 
 ters of Stateare written in his name, and Money 
 is coyned in his Name, but the Imfronto , or 
 ft amp of it, is always the figure of St. Marh^ or 
 St. Marks Lyon. For themofl part the Doge is 
 chofen out of thofe whom they call here, Procu- rmurdto 
 ratori diSt. Marco. Thefe Procurator! are ot high ri/i saii 
 rank and efteem in this Republic. Heretofore 
 there was but one Procurators di San Marc&^w hofe 
 Office was to have a care of all things belonging to 
 $t-MarJ£s Church, and the Treajure. But now there 
 are Twenty five, moll of which have made their 
 Circles of Embaffies in forreign Courts, and are! 
 fit wood to make Doges of : though fome of them 
 of late have been affumed to that dignity for Mo- 
 Pp i ney 
 
228 
 
 Their 
 
 Strength. 
 
 Lofchi in 
 Compendo 
 Bifior. 
 
 3»0?age Of ITALY. Part If. 
 
 ney 5 the State now^ making Money of all Men, 
 as well as of all things. 
 
 As for the Strength and Power of Venice, it’s ve- 
 ry great, their Proifeffions in Italy , being full as 
 great as the Pope’s; and out of Italy, far greater. 
 In Italy they hold fourteen Provinces under them. 
 They are Lords of the Gulph, or Adriatic Sea. 
 
 They poffefs the Coaft of Dalmatia , beyond the 
 Gulp h. They hold the lies of Corfu , Cep halo ria and 
 Zanu. 
 
 Candia , or the lie of Greta, belongs to them by 
 due. The Kingdom of Cyprus alfo is pretended to 
 by them ; and by it and Candy , whofe two Crowns 
 they fhewus in the Treafury, Venice is (filed Sere- 
 nifjma . The Kingdom of Cyprus came to the Ve- 
 netians by Katherine Cornaro , who was made Heir 
 of it by her Son, the King thereof, who died young 
 and without Iflue, about the year 14^8. The ftory 
 is this, Katherine was Daughter of Marco Cornaro, 
 and Neece of Andrew Cornaro, two Noblemen of 
 Venice . Andrew was fent Auditor e Generale into 
 the Kingdom of Cyprm, in the time of James 
 King of that Ifland, and helpt him to many thou- 
 sand Crowns, whereby he fetled his tottering 
 Crown. One day as the King was talking familiar- 
 ly with him, he let fall ('whether by chance, or 
 dchgn ) a little Picture in Miniature, of a very 
 hanafome Lady. The King curious to fee it, call’d 
 for it civilly, and viewing it well, fell hugely in love 
 with the Original of it, which Andrew affured him 
 to be far handfomer than the Copvjand withal ad- 
 dul,that if his Majefly liked her,fhe u as his Neece, 
 and that therefore he offered her freely tohimfer 
 fcis Wife, with all the Money he had already lent 
 
Part ii. c&e wage of italy. 2 2 9 
 
 him, and an hundred Thoufand Crowns more. 
 
 The King bit willingly at thefe two Baits, Beauty 
 and Money, and was not quiet till he had married 
 her. Of her he had but one Son, whom fdyingj 
 he left under his Mothers Protection, but he dying 
 alfo not long after, left his Mother Heir of the King- 
 dom ; and (he at her Death, left this Crown and 
 Kingdom to the Venetians by Will and Gift. This 
 whole Hiftory I faw Painted in the Pallacedf Cor - 
 naro by the hand of Paulo Veronofe . As for the 
 Prong holds which the Venetians pollefs in Italy , 
 they are thefe : Crema , Bergamo , Brefcia , Pefchte- 
 ra , Cbiofa , and Palma Nuova in Fruilu This laft vximx 
 is one of the beft places in Europe . It hath nine Nuovo. 
 Royal Baflions ; Eighteen Cavaliers, which com- 
 mand all the Neighbouring Campagnia : it hath 
 ditches of Water about it,thirtv Paces broad, and 
 twelve deep ; Its Ramparts behind the Wall are 
 high and covering, and they are always fringed 
 with an hundred pieces of Canon, and ready to 
 receive fix Hundred more, whicfi are always in 
 its Magadn , ready upon all occafions. And for 
 Mai and Armour, as the great Arfenal in Venice 
 hath always Arms in readinefs for an hundred 
 Thoufand Men ; fo this State being peopled with 
 three Millions of Men, would eafily find three or 
 four hundred Thoufand Men of Service, and an 
 hundred Gallics : vet their ordinary Militia is 
 but of fourfeore Thoufand .Foot, and fome fix 
 Thoufand Horfe ; and about thirty Gallies. 
 
 As for their Riches , though their ordinary T f, eir 
 Revenues ( before thefe late wars with the Turk) Kicks, 
 exceeded not four Millions, yet now they fpur 
 themfelves,and the Country up to exceflive fums. 
 
 P p 3 Fev$ 
 
230 Cije 5 U 0 |Sge ef- ITALY* Part II. 
 
 Few die but they bequeath fomcthing to fuch a 
 Chriftian Service as this war is. Befides this, the 
 Taxes are much augmented , and feizures and 
 forfeitures more narrowly looked into, to help 
 public expences. In fine, befides this , the great 
 trading which Venice driveth (Aleppo alone bring- 
 ing in fome years, four Millions of .Gold ) the 
 Venetians have found out a very compendious way 
 to raife, in one quarter of an Hour, and by one 
 dafh of a Pen, fifty Hundred Thoufand Crowns, 
 to help themlelvcs withal at a dead lift, and in- 
 commodate no man. This they did, an. 16^6. 
 when fifty rich Families in Venice gave to the 
 ftate an Hundred Thoufand CrOwns a piece, to be 
 made noble Venetians. The like cou-rfe they took 
 to raife money,about an hundred years ago, when 
 they were fet upon by mod of the Princes of Eu- 
 rope at once. 
 
 f. he f As for their Religion, its Roman Catholic , and 
 they have never changed it fince the beginning 
 of their Republic. Hence Mr. Raymond in his 
 Mer curio Italico , page, 1 88. faith truly, that Ve- 
 nice hath this property above all other States ; 
 that fhe is a Virgin, and more, from her firfi: in- 
 fancy, Chriftian 5 having never yet fell from her 
 Principles * either in Government or Religion. 
 It began to be built the very fame year that St. 
 Aaguftin died, as Baroniws obferves. 
 
 Tbdr in- f° r t ^ e Intereft of this Republic, they are 
 
 weft, now well with the Emperor $ not out with Spain, 
 nor too fecure of his Friendfhip ; kind with the 
 French , as long as they keep out of Italy $ well af- 
 fefted to England, and juft friends with the Pope* 
 Now for the particulars which I faw in Venice , 
 they were thefe. I- The 
 
Part H. ©wpsge of italy. 231 
 
 I. The Men themfelves here, who looked like 
 Men indeed And as a Philofopher anciently faid, 
 that when he came from Corinth to Sparta , fie fec- 
 med to come from Horfes to Men : fo me thought, 
 when J came from France to Venice^ I came from 
 Boys to Men. For here I faw the handfomed, 
 the ffiod lightly, the mod proper and grave Men 
 that ever I faw any where elfe. They wear al- 
 ways in the Town (I fpeak of the Noblemen) a 
 long black Gown, a black Cap knit, with an edg- 
 ing of black Wool about it, like a fringe, an an- 
 cient and manly wear , which makes them look 
 like Senators. Their hair is generally the bed 
 I ever faw any where ; thefe little Gaps not pref- 
 fing it down as our Hats do , and Periwigs are 
 here forbid. Under their long Gowns C which 
 fly open before.) they have hanafom black Suits 
 of rich duffs, with Stockings and Garters, and 
 Spatiifh Leather Shoos neatly made. In a word, 
 
 I never faw fo many proper Men together, nor fo 
 wife, as I faw dayly there walking upon the Piaz- 
 za of St. Mark I may boldly lay, that I faw there 
 five hundred Gentlemen walking together every 
 day, every one of which was able to play the Em- 
 baffador in any princes Court of* Europe . But the 
 mifery is,that we ffrangers cannot walk there with 
 them, and talk with them, but mud keep out of 
 their way, and dand a loof off. The reafon is this : 
 
 This date (as all Republics are) being hugely jea- 
 lous of her liberty and prefervation , forbids her 
 Noblemen and Senators to convene with For- 
 raign Embaffadors, or any man that either is an 
 a&ual Servant or Follower of an Embaffador, or 
 hath any the lead relation to any Princes Agent, 
 
 P p 4 with- 
 
2%2 Of ITALY. Part II, 
 
 without exprefs leave : and this upon pain of be- 
 ing fufpe&ed as a Traitor, and condignly punifli- 
 ed. This makes them ftiy to all Strangers, not 
 knowing what relation they may have to fome 
 Forraigq States-man or Agent. For the fame rea- 
 fon, they will not let dieir Wives vifit the Wives 
 of Forraign Embafladors redding in Venice^ for 
 fear of being fufpected to commit Treafon by 
 proxie. They have in the wall of the Pallace, in 
 divers places, certain wide Nlouths of Marble 
 {tone, over which | found written thefe words : 
 T)emncie [ecrete^ private informations, into which 
 they gift fecretiy Papers of accufations, by which 
 they accufe fecretiy any Officer or Nobleman, 
 whom they durft not accufe publickly.This makes 
 men (land hugely upon their guard, and be wary 
 with whom they converfe, and what they fay. 
 
 The noble 2. A s for the women here, they would gladly 
 TTice ° 8 ec &rne reputation that their Husbands have, 
 ymce. ^ being tall and handfome - ? but they overdo it 
 with their horrible cioppim , or high Ihooes, 
 which I have often feen to be a full hall yard high, 
 I confefs, I wondered at fird, to fee women go 
 upon (lilts, and appear taller by the head than 
 any man 5 and not to be able to go any whether 
 without reding their hands upon the lhoulders ot 
 two grave matrons that uftier them ; but at lad, 
 I perceived that it was good policy, and a pretty 
 ingenious way either to clog women at home by 
 fuch heavy fiioes (as the Egyptians kept their 
 W ives at Kome by allowing them no (hoes at all 5) 
 or at lead to make them not able to go either far, % 
 or alone, or invifibly. As for the young Ladies or 
 this Town, that are not marryed, they are never 
 
Part II. ®#e QKOfSge Of ITALY; 233 
 
 feen abroad, but masked like Mafcarades in a 
 ftrange aifguife, at the Fair time, and other public 
 folemnitiesor fhowsybeing at other times brought 
 up in Monafteries of Nuns, till they be-marryed. 
 
 3.Then I went to the Church of S. Afarkjhc E- 
 vangelift,whofebody lyeth here-having been tran- Su Marks 
 dated hither from Alexandria , 020 and odd years chunk 
 agOjhaving ever fince been one of the chief Patrons 
 of tnis ftate,as his Lion hath ever fince beentheArms 
 of the Republick,and its Seal in all public writings- 
 This Church is built a la Thedefca y as they call it, 
 and as the beft Churches built about thofe times, 
 were. Its neither great, nor high; but fo rich for 
 the materials, that nothing but Mofaick work and 
 marble appear in it, The roof and the walls a 
 good way down, are curioufly painted with Mo- 
 jtf/V^Hiftories and Pictures; and the reft of the 
 wall is rare marble. Among thofe Mofaick^fittures; 
 there are to be feen in the vault of the Arch o- 
 ver the door of the Treafury, two old pictures 
 the one of S. Dominick^ the other of S. Francis ; 
 both made before they inftituted their feveral 
 Orders, and yet both in the religious habits 
 which thofe of their Orders wear ; ana all this out 
 of the predictions of Joachim f Abbat of Curacium, Bxronius 
 and not of S. Fleur , as feme wrongly call him) who an ‘ 1 1 $° 
 lived before thefe Orders were inftituted. The 
 picture alfo of the Pope , near to the Pictures of 
 the forelaid Saints, is faid to be a Prophetical Pi- 
 cture 6f the faid Abfeats deferibing ; reprefenting 
 the laft Pope that fhall govern the flock of Chrift, 
 when all the world fhall be of one Religion. The 
 Pavement of this Church is fuitable to the reft, 
 being in fome places cQmpofed of vaft Marble 
 
 (tones 
 
Cfje t&Otage Of ITALY, Part II. 
 
 (tones , naturally reprefenting the Waves of the 
 Sea ; in other places its curioully inlaid with (tones 
 of feveral colors exprelling Flowers, Stars, Birds, 
 Beads and the like : among which (tones I percei- 
 ved here and there fome Turfy (tones of great va- 
 lue among ns, but here not lcorning to be trod 
 upon. Thirty fix Marble Pillars of a round form, 
 and two foot thick In Diameter, hold up the roof 
 of this Church. The high Altar is a rare piece, e- 
 fpecially when you fee the back of it open as I did 
 upon the Afcenfion Eve. This back of the Altar 
 is richly adorned with divers rows of little ena- 
 melled Pi&ures, a h Greet, fet in Gold, and en- 
 riched with brave Pearl and Pretious Stones inter- 
 
 mingled every where between the Pi&ures. This 
 moft rich Ornament, or back of the Altar, was 
 given by a Doge of Venice ■ and brought from Con- 
 ftantinople* Behind the high Altar (lands the Altar 
 of the Bleffed Sacrament, where there are tvvo 
 tranfparent round Pillars, four yards high. In the 
 Sacrifty, which is hard by, I fawneat Mofaic work 
 in the roof 5 and an admirable Pi&ure of St. Hie- 
 rom of the fame work alfo. Round about the in- 
 fide of the .Church , over the Pillars, hang the 
 Scute hem of feveral Doges, in a large fize. For the 
 Doges at their Creation , caufe three things to be 
 made : Firft their Pidure which is fet up in the 
 Salt of the great Council : Secondly their Arms 
 or Scutchion, which are fometimesof Silver, and 
 of an huge fize; and are fet up after the Doges death 
 in the Church for ever. Thirdly they mud make 
 their Pi£lure in the Collegio , or Pregiadi. 
 
 The Tm~ ^ From the Church we were let in to fee the 
 
 Mark U Treafury of St. Mar^which joyns to the Church. 
 
PtotIL Of ITALY* 235 
 
 It was fliown us by the fpecial leave from above, 
 and by two noble Venetians, who are always pre- 
 fers when it is fhown. We were firft fhown the 
 Spiritual Treafure , and then the Temporal-, that 
 is, firfi the Relics and then the Jewels. The Re- The spirL 
 lies were thefe principally, A great auchencical tu * 1 Tre- 
 piece of the holy Crofs, above a fpan long. It is 
 the greateft piece I have feen any where, except 
 that in the Holy Chappel in Paris , and though 
 fame enemies of the very Crofs of Chrift, as well 
 as of other Relics, do jeering! y fay, that there 
 are fo many pieces of the Holy Crofs fliown in 
 the world, they if they were all put together, they 
 would make a Cart load of Wood : Yet I dare 
 maintain more probably, that all the pcices, any 
 one man can fay, are Ihown in Europe (and I have 
 feen a good part of it) would not make fo much 
 of theCiofc, as one of thofe parts on which our 
 Saviours hands were nailed • Seeing the greateft 
 part that we find of it, is no thicker than an or- 
 dinary mans Finger, and little longer than a Span; 
 and tnat very part of it which I law in the Popes 
 own Sacrifty in the Vatican, is no longer than a 
 mans little Finger : And if the King of France (St. 
 
 Lewis') in his two expeditions into the Holy Land, 
 could get only fo little a piece of it, as that which 
 is fliown in Paris, in the Saint Chaff elk : and if the 
 Pope himfelf could get no greater a piece of it, 
 than mentioned above, I do not wonder, if in o- 
 ther places, they fhew fuch little flireds of it, as 
 altogether would not make two foot of Timber, 
 much lefs a Cart load. We faw alfb here a finger 
 of St. Marh^ His Ring With a Stone in it, which our 
 Landariey cannot tell how to name. Some of our 
 f SavL 
 
a}6 ®|etwsage Of ITALY. Partn. 
 
 Saviours blood, gathered up in his Paflion, with 
 the earth it was (pilt upon. A thorn of the Holy 
 Crown of Thorns. A Nail which nailed the two 
 pieces of the Crofs together. A Finger of St. Mar 
 ry Magdalen. A piece of St. John Baftijts Crani- 
 um. A Tooth of St. Marl^ A piece of St. John 
 BaptiJPs habit. Some of our Blefled Ladies Hair, 
 An ancient Pi&ure of St. John Baptift , enamelled 
 id Gold. A peice of our Saviours white Robe 
 when he was fcorned. A very ancient Pi&ure of 
 our B.Lady, carried about anciently by Conftantine 
 the Great, who had it always with him. One of 
 the hones of the Torrent , wherewith St. Stephen 
 was honed. And in fine, the fword of St. Peter. J 
 The Tern- Then leading us to the temporal Treafure , in 
 pordTrea- another Room, they (hewed us (by Candle light, 
 fure. as they did alfo the Spiritual Treafure ) thefe things. 
 
 Firh, the twelve Crowns of Gold, and the twelve 
 breah and back peices (like Womens clofe bo- 
 dies) of beaten Gold alfo, fet thick, as well as the 
 Crowns, with exquifite Pearl, both round and 
 big : Twelve young Virgins ufed to wear them 
 anciently upon a Feah day .Then three great Car- 
 buncles, one whereof weigheth fix ounces, and is 
 bigger than an. ordinary Hens Egg : They value 
 it at two Hundred Thoufand Crowns. Tnen the 
 two Crowns of Gold fet thick with pretious hones j 
 one being the Crown of the Kingdom of Cyprus ; 
 the other of the Kingdom or Candy . After 
 this they fhewed us the Doge's Crown , called 
 here, il Cornoy becaufe its made fomewhat fharp 
 and turning in at the top like a horn. It’s fet 
 round with a clofe row of excellent Pearl, each 
 one as big as an Hafel Nut, with a vah Ruby in 
 
 the 
 
Part n. ®&e my aje of italy. 
 
 the front of it,worth a HundredThoufandCrowns, 
 fay they, and one of the faireft Diamonds in Eu- 
 rope^ in the top of it. Then they (hewed us many 
 other rich things , as the Flower de Luctoi Gold, 
 with a rich Diamond in it , given by Henry III. 
 of France ^ at hispaffing by Venice , when he came 
 out ’of Poland. The two Unicorns horns, farlefs 
 than that at St. Denys in France 3 but no lefs true. 
 The two Crucifixes fet with Pearl and rich Jewels, 
 and in great number. The great Candlefficks and 
 Thurible of beaten Gold, and curioufly wrought* 
 each one being almoft as heavy as a man can car- 
 ry in both hands.The great Chalice of gold, as great 
 as a man can carry in both hands. A Saphyr weigh- 
 ing ten ounces. A cup or di(h,as broad and deep as 
 an ordinary Callote (or Cap, which we wear un- 
 der our Hats) and all of one Turty-tt. one entire, 
 and of huge value 3 It was fent unto this Repub- 
 lick, by a Ring of Perfia. A Veflel like a Tan- 
 kard, of a rich Cameo 3 its handle being curioufly 
 engraven with a Diamond. A little Vafe of the 
 roots of Fmeraud. Another of Sardonic. A great 
 cup of Agate. Another of Roman Agate, far fi- 
 ner than the former, and more tranlparent. A 
 rich Pax of Mother of Pearl. A Spanijh Embaf- 
 fador, once viewing thisTreafure, took a Candle 
 and looked curioufly under the long Tables, up- 
 on which thefe rich things are expofed 3 ana be- 
 ing asked what he looked for, anfwered 5 that he 
 looked whether this Treafure had Roots or no, 
 as his Mafters Treafure had, and therefore grow- 
 eth yearly : meaning the India Fleet of Spain* 
 which bringeth home yearly to the King of Spain's 
 Coffers and Treafure, twelve Millions. 
 
 5. Having 
 
 337 
 
S 3 8 mo^age of ITALY. PartH. 
 
 5. Having feen this Treafure, and thanked the 
 two noble Venetians that flood by , and requited 
 The Doges the under Officers that fhewed it $ we went into 
 P alive, the Doges Pallace 3 which joyns to St. AfarkjChurch$ 
 
 and mounting up the open flairs into the openGaj- 
 lery , we law the two great Marble Starnes of Mars 
 ana Nef>tme y which ftand at die head of thefe 
 Stairs, and fignifie the ftrength of the Venetian 
 both by Sea and Land. They are excellent pei- 
 ces, otherwife great Sanjovinm would never have 
 owned them by writing under them : Ogm San - 
 fovini* This open Gallery led us into a world of 
 Chambers of Jufljce and Clerks Offices^all thron- 
 ged with bulinefs and bufy men. Going up from 
 hence imo a higer ftory, we law the Poge*s Cham- 
 bers of Audience, his Anti-chambers , his Lining- 
 room, and the like. From thence we were led in- 
 to feveral great Chambers of Count'd, all rarely 
 well painted. After that we law the great Cliam- 
 ber, or Sap y of the Senate houfe, where the No- 
 bles meet upon affairs, as great as the Chamber. 
 For here they meet about the chuling of public 
 Officers, either for the governing of the City or 
 Army : And fometimes they have been forced to 
 flay there eight days (faith Sahellicm) not being 
 able to agree about the Ele&ions ; they not being 
 permitted to depart thence till they agree.. This 
 Senate-houfe or great Chamber, is above three- 
 fcore paces long, and thirty wide. Its full of Seats 
 for the Noble Venetians , to the number of two 
 Thoufand Men, who have right to enter here* 
 Ids painted on all fides by the rareft Painters that 
 were in Italy , when this Room was made. Over 
 the Doge' j s Throne, is a rare piece of painting, co- 
 hering 
 
Part u. sao?sge of italy. 359 
 
 vering the whole end of the Room above, and 
 representing Heaven in a glorious manner. k*s of 
 the hand of Tmtoret. The great Pictures upon 
 that fide of the Room* which looks towards the 
 Court of the Pallace* contain the Hiftory of Pope 
 Alexander the III. and the Emperor Frederic Bar* 
 barojfa. I faw alfo in tin’s great Room* and in the 
 next joyningtoit, the true PIftures of all the Da- 
 rn of Venice . In the other Chambers of this Pal- 
 lace* in the Churches, and other Pallaces of this 
 Town* I law fo many, and fo rare peices of pain- 
 ting, of Titian y TintQretjBellino 9 Grntile y Cajtel^Fran* 
 co * Bafd?w, Paolo Veronese , Perdonone and others, 
 that with Madam Romes leave, 1 dare boldly fay, 
 that no place of Italy hath fo many rare Piftures 
 in it* as Venice hath ; and perchance* you will be 
 of my opinion, if you read the curious Book of 
 Rodolfi , who hath written the lives of the Pain- 
 ters of Venice ^ and the Venetian State*and fets down 
 where their prime pieces are to be feen. The link 
 
 7. Having feen thefe Chambers of Judicatures^*^' 
 we were led about to the Safa of the Configlio de 
 Died fotherwife called* the little ArfenalJ in the 
 Pallace (fill. Irs a curious fight, and therefore not * 
 to be omitted by my Traveller. There are arms 
 in it for a Thoufand Men* ready upon all occa- 
 lions of Sedition or Treafon. The Muskets are 
 always charged and primed*and every fix months 
 they difeharge them*to charge them a frelh. Pikes 
 and Swords are alfo 10 ordered here*that by pi tick- 
 ing a firing* they fall into the hands of thofe that 
 fhould ufe them : So that in lefs than half an hour 
 a thoufand Men may fally out armed. In the end 
 of the great Room where the Muskets hang*ftands 
 
> mtm of ITALY. Part U. 
 
 a great Iron ball pierced through like a Basket 
 hilt, and four times as big as a Soldiers Helmet, 
 within which there is a Spring, which being un- 
 cock’d by the pulling of a Cord, ftrikes fire into 
 Gunpowder, which lieth round about within this 
 ball, in a train , and there are fo many feveral 
 ends of Match as there are Muskets here $ half 
 of the Match hanging out of the holes of the Ball, 
 the other half being within, and reaching into the 
 train of Powder : So that the firft Man tbatfhould 
 come in and pluck the forefaid Cord, would pre- 
 sently ftrike fire, and light the match all at once 5 
 and then every man catching a Musket, and one 
 of thefe Matches lighted , they are armed in a 
 moment. This Armory is to fecure the Doge and 
 the Senators ( while they are afTembled in Coun- 
 fel) from fuch like treafons as have been plotted 
 againft them, whilft they were fitting in Counfel. 
 And for this purpoie, there’s a door which open- 
 eth out of the Senate-houfe, into this Armory; 
 and the Keys of it are always laid near the Doge, 
 when he fits here in confutation : Nor is this fo 
 much an Italian Jealofy , as a prudent caution 
 oaufed by part dangers. For they fl ew us in the 
 great Arienal, the Armory, (with one Arm only, 
 to be worn under a Venetian Gown , while the 
 other Arm was fhowed bare, to take off all fufpi- 
 cion) oiBajamante Theofoli and his complices, to 
 the number of Eight Hundred men,, who intend- 
 ed to kill the whole Senate, while it was aflem- 
 bled ; and make Bajamante Mafter of Venice. But 
 the Plot was dafht in the Execution $ becaufe Ba- 
 jamntfs brains were dafh’d out by a poor Wo- 
 man, who feeing him march under her window 
 
Part II. CllQpge Of ITALY. 
 
 in the head of his rebellious crew , threw down 
 from her Window, a great earthen Flower-pot 
 upon his Headland killed him dead. His party lee-< 
 ing this, retired, and were foon fubdued : and 
 his Houfe was turned into a Shambles for Butch- 
 ers 5 a fit difgrace for him who would have been 
 the Butcher of his Prince and Countrimen. Here 
 alfo,in this Arfenal, we faw the Sword and Arms 
 of brave Scanderberg^ Prince of Albania^ who won 
 feven Battles over feven, the molt iliuftrious Baf \ 
 fat the great T/w^had, and died after all peace- 
 ably in his Eftates, in lpite of Amur at h. Its faid, 
 that the great T/w^hearing how Scanderberg with 
 his fword, had cloven men in two, fent to him j, 
 and defined jjjm to fend him his Sword, his Cut- 
 ting Sword : which he did ; the T/r^tryed it up- 
 on his Slaves,and finding that he could not cleave 
 men as Scantier berg had done, fent him word,that 
 he had not fent mm his true Sword • to whom 
 Scanderberg replied, that he had fent him indeed 
 his Sword, but not his Arm. As for this Sword , 
 which they call here Scanderbeg's Sword, its a 
 broad thin Blade of a reasonable length, but light, 
 and of as good metal almoft, as its Mafter. We 
 faw here many other curiofities : As the Standard 
 of the Doge TLani , who reftored Pope Alexander 
 the III. unto his Seat a :ain ; with his Sword, Buc- 
 ler and Helmet. The Standard of the great Turk-, 
 The Standard of Horfes hair belonging alfb to the 
 great Turk, and which he hung out always be- 
 fore Battail, as a fignal of combat . It w r as taken 
 by a French man called Ciotar. The Statues of Lu- 
 dovico Sforza Duke of Milan of his wife Vif- 
 Conti. The Statue or head of Qatar a , whom thev 
 
 CLq Call 
 
242 Of ITALY. Part II, 
 
 call the T yrantjnit how truly I know not. The Stay 
 tue or head in Brafs of brave Venerio , General o* 
 th c Venetians y in theBattaii of Lejanto. The Head 
 in Brafs alio of brave Bragandino , flead alive by 
 the Turfy for his Countries Service. The Piffure 
 of Santa Juftina in a great Cafe fet with rich Stones. 
 This Cafe was made for a great Looking-Glafs 
 which the Venetians fcnt-unto th cSuItanejs of the 
 great Tur\y Tut the Ship that carried it, meeting 
 in the way a Frigat which brought the news of a 
 great Vidory gotten over the Turks by the Veneti- 
 ans upon Santadjujlina's day, it returned back a- 
 gain with the prelent * and the Senate caufed the 
 Glafs to be taken out, and Santa Juftina 9 s Picture 
 to be fet in place of it. Then we faw a rare Carpet , 
 or rather a curious piece of Stuff w?th Figures in 
 it, fent to the Pvepublic of Venice by a King of 
 Perjia . The habits of two noble Chine who were 
 Baptized at Venice. The Armor of' brave Oatta 
 Mela> with the Pi&ureof a Cat in his Head-piece. 
 The Armor of fome of the ancient D ages of Ve- 
 nice 9 who, to the number of Forty or Fifty, went 
 to War in Pcrfon, and did fuch things there, as to 
 make their very Armor to be Honorable. The 
 Habit, Buckler, and Sword of a King of Perfia ; 
 the Arms are fet with rich Stones. The Armor 
 of Henry the IV of France^ with his Pocket Piffol. 
 The Armor of the Duke of Rohan. The com- 
 pleat Armor of a little Boy about ten years old, 
 who was found dead in a Battail, fighting for the 
 Venetians and his C ountry , and not known who 
 •he was. Poor brave Child 1 who being worthy 
 never to have died, doefi not fo much as live in 
 hfftorv ! Indeed I did not think till tiienahat Mars 
 U ' had 
 
Part II. djetto^ageof itALY. 243 
 
 had his Abortives too, dying before their time, 
 and before they were named. Then they fhewed 
 me Attih’s Helmet, with the Head-piece of his 
 Horfe, A Cannon (hooting feven Shotsat once, as 
 if Death, with his Angle Dart, went too (lowly to 
 work. Another Cannon (hooting threefcore Snots 
 in ten Barrels. A Halbert with a Barrel within 
 it, (hooting fourteen Shots.Another Halbert (hoot- 
 ing feven Shots. A Canon of Iron carrying two 
 Miles, and curioufly wrought into flowers with 
 the points of Ghizels. Thechollarof Iron of the, 
 Paduan T yrant ( as they call him here ) Carara, 
 
 The little Iron Crofs-bow of the fame T yrant, with 
 which he is (aid to have (hot Needles a Span long* 
 and killed many Men privately, who knew not 
 how, or by whom they were hurt. Then the De- 
 vils Organs, or a trunk of Xeather,with ten Piftol 
 Barrels in it, of a Foot and an half long 5 and fo 
 difpofed in order like Organ-pipes, that upon the 
 opening of the lock of this Trunk, all thefe Bar- 
 rels being charged with feveral Bullets, fhould let 
 fly at once ; and fo fcattering wide, kill all thole' 
 that fhould be in the Room.This trunck was con- 
 triv’d by a revengeful Man, who having a mind 
 to be revenged both of his Enemy, and of his E- 
 mies Friends at once, fent him this Trunk by an 
 unknown Bear erf as a prefen t from a Friend)while 
 he treated his friends at dinner. The holes through 
 the (ides of it, may by the Bullets, (hew the de~ 
 vilifh died of this T runLand how wel l it deferves 
 the name of the Devils Or an. The Box of Bor- 
 targoes here isjuff fuch another Invention. A Pi- 
 ftol in a Pocket-Book here is as bad as the others* 
 which being Charged and let off, would prefent- 
 Q.q 2 ly 
 
244 Cfce rootage of italy. Part ir. 
 
 lv read your Doom. Swords and Dagcrs, with 
 Piftol and little Gun Barrels running along their 
 Blades, which being held drawn with the Broad- 
 fide to a Man, appear to be only plain Swords and 
 Daggers, ana yet they difchargc thrufts not to be 
 parried by any fencing guard. I faw alfo here a 
 fine Tabernacle of Chryftal: a burning Lamp 
 found in An tenor’s Tomb in Padua. A Burning- 
 Glals, which burneth half a Mile off : a rare A'- 
 dam and /Eve, with the Serpent and the Tree, all 
 cut out of one piece of Wood, by the rare hand 
 of Alberto Dureo : and in fine, the Picture of King 
 James of England^ the only Pi&ujre of any for- 
 reign Prince that I law there. 
 
 The Tii\- Having thus feen this Cabinet of Mars, we went 
 
 Mark out ^ ie P a ^ ace i nto c ^ e Piazza of St. Marl^ 
 
 ar ’ upon which both the aforefaid Church of St. 
 
 Mar l{ 7 and the Doge’s Pallace look. This is one of 
 the nobleft Piazza^ that a Man can fee in any 
 Town. It runs from the Sea-fide, up along the Pal- 
 lace, to the Church of St. Mark^ and from thence 
 turning on the left hand, it fpreads it felf into a 
 more large and longer open place* mod Beautiful 
 to behold;for the wnole Piazza , even from the 
 Sea-fide to the farther end, is built upon Arches, 
 and Marble Pillars ; and raifed up with beautiful 
 Lodgings, fit to lodg ail the Procurators of St. Marb^ 
 all the rich forreignMerchantS;a world of perfons of 
 condition;the4//V.t,and the famous Library .In that 
 part of the Piazza which lie sunder the Pallace, 
 the jAebili Venetians walk together, twice a day, to 
 confer about bufinclsof State. This meeting here 
 of the Noblemen is called the Broglio . And in the 
 end of it,clofe by the Sea-fide, (land two great Pif- 
 
Part ii. ®fje borage of italy. 
 
 Iarsof rich Marble, the one bearing upon it the I- 
 mage of St. T he odor m, the other the Lyon of St. 
 Mark^ thefe two Saints, St. Markand St. Theodo - 
 re , being the two Patrons of this City. Thefe two 
 Pillars were erefted here by a Lombard^who requir- 
 ed no other recompence for his Pains, than that 
 it may be Lawful for Dice-players to play at Dice 
 between thefe two Pillars, without being puniihed 
 or molefled ; nay;, though they played falfe play; 
 Here alfo between thefe two Pillars they execute 
 Malefa&ors, to fliew that they deferve not the 
 Proteftion of thofe two Patrons, who b eak the 
 orders of that Town which is under their Prote- 
 ction. It* s pity that the Lombard himfelf was not 
 whipp’d here, at leafi,for making himfelf the Pro- 
 testor of idle Rogues there, where the Saints are 
 Patrois of honeHMen. Over againfl the Pallace 
 Hands the Mint, in a place called La Ijeccha^ and 
 from hence the Gold coined here is called Zecchi - 
 a piece of Gold worth fome feven Shillings and 
 Sixpence of our Money. Hardbv it Hands the Li- 
 brarv;famous both for the quantity and quality of 
 the Books that are in it. Petrarch ( once Canon of 
 the Church of Padua) gave his Library to it; and 
 Beff avion a Greek Cardinal of great Learning and 
 Worth, gave as many great Munufcripts unto it, 
 as cofl him thirty Thoufand Crowns, and yet by 
 this Legacy, Bef avion was but even with the Ve- 
 netians^ wno honored him in fuch a particular 
 manner, as to fend out the Bucentauvo it felf to 
 bring him into Venice ^ being fent thither Legat by 
 the Pope. 
 
 8 . Going from hence into the other part of the 
 Piazza, which Hands before the Church, Iefpied 
 Qq 3 upon 
 
Moym Of ITALY, Part If. 
 
 upon the very out-corncr of the wall of the 
 Church (as you come out of the Pallace) four Per- 
 phiry Statues of four Merchants embracing one 
 another. Having enquired what thofe Statues were 
 fet for there, I was told by a grave old Gentleman 
 pf Venice-) that thofe whom thefe Statues reprefent, 
 were four Merchants and Strangers, who brought 
 hither ftioft of the Jewels mentioned above in the 
 Treafury : and that afterwards poifoning one am 
 other, out of Covetcoufiiefsjeft this State heir of aff 
 Juft before the Church ftand three tall Marts of 
 Ships, upon curioufly wrought Pedeftals of Brafs,&: 
 each Mart bear ingjiipon great days,a ftately Flag,&: 
 Stream ers.Thefe three Marts fignify the three no- 
 bleft parj:s of the Venetians Dominions, to wit, the 
 Kingdoms of Cyprus, and of Candy, and the ftate of 
 Venice . In this Piazza I found always a world of 
 Strangers perpetually walking and talking of Bar- 
 gains and Traffic, as Greeks, Armenians , Albani- 
 ans^ Slavonians, Polonians, Jews, and even TCurks 
 themfelves ; all in their feveral Habits, but ail 
 confpiring in this one thing* to fell dear, and buy 
 cheap. Here a!fo they have every night in Sum- 
 mer, a world of Montibanhi, Ciarlatani, and fuch 
 fluff, who, together with their daiggs and reme- 
 dies, ftrive to pleafe the people with theit little 
 Comedies, Puppet : plays, Songs, Mufic, Stories, 
 and fuch like Buffonery. It’s ftrange to fee how 
 they find daiiy;eitner new fooling or new fools, not 
 only to hear them, but even they throw them 
 Money too for fuch poor contentments. In this Pi- 
 azza alfb ftands the Campanile, or high Steeple 
 pf Venice, didant feme fifty Paces from the Church 
 pf St? Mark; It’s built forty Foot fquare on all 
 
 fides. 
 
Part II. 5U0#lge Of ITALY. 247 
 
 Sides, and two Hundred and thirty fix high. The The high 
 topof it iscovered with gilt Tiles, which, in a Sun- 
 ftineday, appear glorioufly afar off. The Foun- 
 dation of it is almoft as deep underground, as the 
 top of it is high above ground ; a wonder, if you 
 confiderthatit ftands in Venice. From the topof 
 this Campanile we had a perfect view of Venice un- 
 der us, and of all its neighboring Iffends, Forts, Seas, 
 and Towns about it $ as alfo of the outfide of St. 
 
 Marks Qiurch, its Frontifpiece, its Cupola’s, and 
 the four Horfes of Brafs gilt, which ftand over the 
 Frontifpicc. Thefe Horfes came out of the Shop, 
 not out of the Stable of Lijippm a famous Statu- 
 ary in Greece , and were given to Nero by Tirada - 
 tes , King of Armenia- They were carried by Con- 
 flantine tne Great from Rome to Constantinople • and 
 from thence they were tranfported hither. In fine, 
 from the top of this Steeple we fa w the compafs of 
 the great Arfenal of Venice , which looked like a 
 little Town in our Sight. Indeed (bme make it 
 three Miles about ; but I cannot allow it fo qiuch. 
 
 The fight of this Maga&n of War afar off, made 
 us haften down from the Steeple to go fee it nearer 
 hand. 
 
 9. Taking therefore a Gondola , we went to the The Ar fa 
 Arfenal, where, after the ordinary formalities of nli ' 
 leaving our Swords at the Door, and paying the 
 Porters Fees, we were admitted, and led through 
 this great (hop of Man. It’s fo well feated near 
 the Sea-fide, and fo well built, that it might ferve 
 the Venetian Senators for aCaftle,in time of dan- 
 ger: and in it there is a Well of frefh Water, not 
 to be poifoned, becaufe of tfic two pieces of V- 
 morns Horn fet faff in the bottom of it. I confefs 
 
 Q.q 4 i 
 
fflJOtafte 0f ITALY, Part II. 
 
 I never faw any where inch Oeconomy as is here 
 obicrv'd. Fifteen Hundred Men are daily employ- 
 ed here, and duly paid at the Weeks end, accord- 
 ing to their feveral Employments and Works.The 
 Ex peaces of theie Workmen amount to a Thou- 
 fend Ducats every day in the Year : So that they 
 make account that they may fpend in this Arferal 
 four Hundred and thirty Thoufand Crowns a 
 Year : enough almoft to maintain a pretty Ar- 
 my conftantly .Every Workman here hath w ine 
 twice a day, and that very good too, but that it 
 is a little mingled with Water. We were led 
 through all the vail: Rooms of this Magazin r 
 Rooms like vaft Churches. In one of them I faw 
 nothing but great Oars for Gallies, feven Men 
 going to one Oar. In another, nothing but vaft 
 Sterns. In another, nothing but vaft Nails for Gal- 
 lies and Ships. In another, they were making no- 
 thing but Salt-peeter for Gunpowder. In another 
 they were calling great Cannons , Mortar-pieces, 
 ana Chambers. In another they had nothing but 
 a pair of vaft Scales to weigh Cannons with. Iji 
 another, Malls for Gallies and Ships, of a prodi- 
 gious greamefs and length; and yet of fuch a rare 
 Timber, that one fillippihg upon* one end of them, 
 you hear it eafily at the other end, by applying 
 your Ear to it. Some of thefe Mails are worth 
 fourfeore Pounds. In other vaft Rooms I faw {lore 
 of Cannons of all fizes, both for Ships and Gal- 
 lics ; where alfo I faw fome Turkifh Cannons.with 
 words upon them in the Turkjfb Language. There 
 I faw alfo one Cannon (hooting three Shots at once: 
 another five,^ one great Cannon found buried in 
 Cm ly full of Gold Medals : the great Cannons 
 
Part II. 3CJJC Of ITALY. * 
 
 caft here while Henry the III of France dined in 
 this Arfenal. They had heretofore a prodi- 
 gious quantity of Cannons here, but now thefe 
 Rooms are much emptied, by reafon of this War 
 with the Turks. In other great Rooms I faw huge 
 heaps of Cannon-Bullets of all fizes,with fome Em- 
 figns won over the Turks. Then mounting up into 
 the Chambers above, I faw in two vail: Rooms, 
 Arms for fifty T houfand Men. In another. Arms 
 for twelve Gallies : In another. Arms for fifty 
 Gallies. Here alfo I law the fuit of Armor of 
 Scanderbeg : that of the Doge Zani ; the Lan- 
 terne of Don John of Auftria's Ship in the Battail 
 of Lefanto : the Lantern of a Turkifh Gai- 
 ly : the Armor of Beri]dmante Theoplt , and his 
 complices, with one Arm only : lome Arms ta- 
 ken from the Turks in the Battail of Leg ant o: other 
 Arms taken from the Oenuefi $ a great Crofs-bow 
 fhooting vail Arrows of Iron, above five quarters 
 long : an Invention of great ufe, before Guns were 
 found out. A Cannon-Bullet with four long Irons, 
 like the tops of Halberft; which fhut up clofe into 
 it when they put it into the Cannon, but open a- 
 gainof themfelves as foon as the Bullet is out of 
 the Cannons Mouth : and fo fpreading into four 
 parts, cut all they meet with ftrange Fury, a dan- 
 gerous invention in Sea Battails, to fpoil Cordage 
 and Tackling. Here alfo they fhew us the Defcrip- 
 tion of the Town and Fort of Clijfa t and how it 
 was taken by the Venetians fome twenty years a- 
 go. Then defending from thence, we went to fee 
 the places where they make new Gallies, and 
 mend old ones. There I found a vaft fquare Court 
 three Hundred Paces broad in every fquare, and 
 full of vaft Penthoufes, capable of holding in them. 
 
 Gallics 
 
250 
 
 ttopge Of ITALY. Part II. 
 
 Gallies of fifty Paces long a piece. In the midft 
 of this Court is a vaft fquare pond of Water, let 
 in from the Sea, where the new Gallies are tryed ; 
 and the old ones are let into the Arfenal to be 
 mended and rigged a new. Here I faw a world of 
 Galleys, and a world of Men working about them 
 moftbufily.There were heretofore divers of thefe 
 great Courts full of Gallies, but now they are 
 much exhaufted 5 the Gallies being abroad in 
 War. Hence it is obferved that this Arfenal, be- 
 fore thefe Wars , could arm two Hundred Gallies, 
 and two hundred Thoufand Men.Here it was that 
 they made a Gaily, and fet her out at Sea while 
 Henry the III dined here in the Arfenal; which 
 made that King fay then, that he would give three 
 of his beft towns in France (except his Parliament 
 Towns ) for fuch an Arfenal. Indeed the Arfenals 
 of Parity GenUyZmc\y Naples, and GenevOykctnr 
 ed to me to be little Ghnfmiths Shops in compa- 
 rifon of this. They were then making here two 
 new GaUeajfes ( when I was laft there ) of vaft bulk 
 and Expences. In fine, I faw here the old Bucen- 
 toro ; and prefendy after the new Bucentoro, This 
 laft is the Galley of State, of the Doge , when he go- 
 eth forth upon the Afcenfion-day, accompanied 
 with the Senate, to efpoufe the Sea as they call it 
 here. This is a noble Galley, all gilt without,and 
 wainfeotted roundabout the Deck, with gilt Seats. 
 There runs a Partition of wood quite along the 
 Deck of the Gaily , with Seats on both fides, and 
 with a low open roof of wood to let in Air, and 
 yet keep off the Sun ; and all this is gilt and paint- 
 ed, and capable of five Hundred Senators, who in 
 their fcarlet Robes wait upon the Doge that day. 
 
251 
 
 Part n. ctje mv age ot italy. 
 
 T he Doge fits in the Puff <?, in a Chair of State, 
 with the Popes Nmcio on one hand of him, and 
 the Patriarch oi Venice on the other, and a place 
 for Mufic behind them. The Slaves arc all under 
 Hatches, and notfeen at all; but their Oars, (twen- 
 ty on each fide ) move all at once, like great Wings, 
 which make the Bucentoro move molt Majeiiical- 
 ly. And this is all that I can remember' in this Ar- 
 fcnal, except the Cellar of Wine, and the great 
 Rooms, fas I came out ) where Women only are 
 employed in mending old Sails^and Men (a paitj 
 in making great Cables : and indeed thofe vaft 
 Anchors which lye near the wooden Bridge here 
 at the entrance, lland in need of Cables of the 
 greateit fizc. 
 
 io. I happened to be at Venice thrice, at the The Afm- 
 great Sea Triumph, or Feaft of the Afcenfion, fa. 
 which was performed thus. About our eight in the 
 Morning, the Senators in their Scarlet Robes meet 
 at the Doge's Pallace; and there taking him up, 
 they walk with him procelfionally unto the Shoar, 
 where the Bucentoro lies waiting*them; the Popes 
 Nuncio being upon his right Hand, and the Patri- 
 arch of Venice on his left Hand. Then afeending 
 into the Bucentoro , by a handfome Bridge thrown 
 out to flioar, the Doge takes his place, and the Se- 
 nators fit round about the Gaily as they can, to the 
 number of two or three Hundred. The Senate be- 
 ing placed, the Anchor is weighed, and the ‘Slaves 
 being warned by the Captains Whiftle , and the 
 5ound of Trumpets,begin to ftrike all at once with 
 their Oars, and to make the Bucentoro march as 
 gravely upon the Water, as If fhc alfowent upon 
 Qlof fini. Thus they fteer for two Miles upon the 
 
 lagma. 
 
25* ©qsage of italy. Partn. 
 
 Laguna, while the Mufic plays, and.fings Efithala- 
 mms all the way long, and makes Neptune jea- 
 lous to hear Hymen called up in his Dominions. 
 Round about the Bucentoro flock a world of Piot- 
 ta\ and Gondola's, richly covered over head with 
 fumptuous Canopies of 5ilks, and rich Stuffs, and 
 rowed by Watermen in rich Liveries,as well as the 
 Trumpeters. Thus forreign Embafladors, divers 
 Noblemen of the Country, and Strangersof Con- 
 dition wait upon the Vogels Galley all the way a- 
 long,both coming and going. At laft the Doge be- 
 ing arrived at the appointed place, throws a Ring 
 into the Sea, without any other ceremony ,than by 
 hyingiDefponfama* te, Marejnfignim perpetui Do- 
 inimi. We efpoufetbee , 0 Sea, in Teftimony of our 
 perpetual dominion over thee : and fo returns to the 
 Church of St. Nicolas in Lio (an Ifland hard by) 
 where he affifts at high Mafs with the Senate. This 
 done, he returns home again in the fame State ; 
 and invites thofe that accompanied him in his 
 Gaily ,to Dinner in hisPallace: the preparatives of 
 which dinner we faw before the Doge was got home. 
 This Ceremony of marrying the Sea, as they call 
 it, is ancient ; and performed yearly in memory 
 of the grant of Pope Alexander the III: who being 
 reftored by the Venetians unto his Seat again, grant- 
 ed them Power over the Adriatic Sea, as a Man 
 hath power over his Wife;and the Venetians to keep 
 this Pofleffion, makeeverv year this watery Ca- 
 vale at a. I confefs, the fight is (lately, and a Poet 
 would prefently conceive that Neptune himfelf 
 were going to be married to fo.me Nereide. 
 
 The Corfo 1 1 . Having feen this Ceremony in the Morning, 
 gtMurano. W e went after Dinner to fee the Evening Cwfo at 
 
 MuranOy 
 
Part n. ®Jotagt of italy. 353 
 
 Mur am ^ wjhere we faw thofe fine Gondola* and Pi- 
 Mat, which he had feen waiting upon the Doge 
 in the morning, now rowing in date up and down 
 the great Canale of Muranojco the found of Trum- 
 pets 5 and with all the force of the brawny Water- 
 men that row them^ometimes meeting too thick 
 in the Arches of the wooden Bride here , they 
 crack one anothers Gondola $, break one another* 
 
 Oars 3 overturn their Boatmen, and are dopt for 
 an hour together without being able to untangle. 
 Embaffadors themfelves of Forreign Princes ap- 
 pear in Corfo this evening, with all their bravery 
 ffive or fix Gondola* all in one Livery, as well as 
 all the Gallants and Gentry of Venice , who ap- 
 pear here this Evening at Corfo. 
 
 12. The next morning no looner appeared, but Ths Fain ' 
 new fights appeared alfo, and now upon land; and 
 
 the Scene was St. Mark's place, where the Fair 
 opening this day, and lading for ten days, drew 
 all the Gallants of Venice to come, and behold all 
 the Gallantry and Riches that either Domefticor 
 Forreign Merchants could fet forth to fail.But the 
 mod part of the young Ladies that came to fee 
 the Fair, came in an odd drels,with a falfe Nofe, 
 and a little beard of black Wool, difguifing their 
 Mouth and Nofe : fo that they could fee all the 
 Fair, and be known to no body. Thus they go 
 often to Marriages, and other aflemblies, when 
 they have no mind to be known. 
 
 13. Having thus feen .thefe forefaid fights, we 
 went on with vifiting the other things in the 
 Town, and one day we went to the Ifland of St. 
 
 George Major , where we faw a dately Monadery, St, George. 
 Church, Cloifter and Garden, which take up this 
 
 whole 
 
*54 
 
 1S$e Of ITALY. Part II. 
 
 whole Ifland. The Church is one of the beft in 
 Venice , and built by Palladio^ the famous Archi- 
 tect. In the Church I was fhewn the great filver 
 Lamp, as great as two men could carry. In a Pil- 
 lar of Marble Handing over a fide Altar, I was 
 fhewn the Picture of a Crucifix , which was dif- 
 covered , at the polifhing of this Hone, to have 
 been naturally in the Vein of the Marble. In the 
 Refectory ,J law an admirable Pi&ure of the Sup- 
 
 r :r of Gama in Gallic a , made by Guido Rheni. 
 
 vifited it often, and could never latiate my eyes 
 with fuch a rare piece It takes up the whole end 
 of the great Refectory. 
 
 the? Allace 14. From thence we rowed to the Pallace of 
 
 6 f si & n ore Procuratore Nam y which Hands in an bland be- 
 *t*nu yond St. Gt&rm. The Pallace is richly furnifhed 
 with the true Pi£tures of many modern Princes 
 and Ladies of Franc ejEngUnd and Germany . This 
 Pallace, hath one flrange thing belonging to it, 
 beyond the Pallaces of Venice : to wit, a neat Gar- 
 den, for Gardens in Venice are as wonderful things 
 as Coaches : And I cannot remember, that look- 
 ing upon the whole City, from top of the high 
 Steeple, I law two places where there were any 
 green Trees. But the bed thing that I faw here, 
 was the ProcurAtore Nani himfelf,che greatefi Or- 
 nament of the Venetian Senate,whofe learned Pen 
 hath already given us an excellent Hiflory of Ve- 
 nice. 
 
 The c apu - j y From hence we walked to the Cafncins con- 
 
 cm. vent, which is in the lame Wand, and Church 
 neatly built, and far above the rate of Ctfucins ; 
 but it was a vow of the Senate in time of the 
 Plague j and’they regarded more, in building it, 
 
 their 
 
part ii. ©towage of italy. 25 j 
 
 their own honor than the Cafucins fimplicity. 
 
 1 6. From hence, returning again towards the Mdonm 
 Town, wc (leered our Gondola to the Church of di Salutg * 
 Madonna di Salute-, a new round Church, vowed 
 
 by the^State in another plague time, and likely 
 to be one of the fined Churches in Venice , when 
 it (hall be ended. In the Sacridy I faw a rare Pi- 
 cture of a Fcad, by 7 mtoret 5 and others in the 
 roof, bv Titian.' 
 
 17. From hence we went to the Church of the 
 Canon Regulars, called La Car ha, in whofeMo - L(L Marita 
 nafiery Pope Alexander the III. lay hid privately 
 
 like a poor Chaplain of this Church, unknown to 
 the very Fathers of this place : till at lad he was 
 difcovered by a devout Pilgrim, who having feen 
 him often in Rom , and hearing him fay iVlafs 
 here, difcovered him to the Senate, aud fo he was 
 both acknowledged by the Senate, and defended 
 by them, as we laid above. Over the entrance of 
 the Quire , is feen the , .Picture of Alexander the 
 III. receiving the Emperor Frederic to the killing 
 of his feet, by the means of the Doge of Venice , 
 who frauds by: Here’s alfo a good Pifture of pur 
 Saviour’s railing up Lazarus again to life -• Its of 
 the hand of Bajfan . 
 
 18. Another time I went to the Dominicans ss. do - 
 Church, called Sr .Giovanne ir Paulo , where I vanned 
 found, among the Tomb-dones, that'of the Lord Paul °* 
 Henry Auhigni (fecond Brother to the Duke of Le- 
 nox and Richmond) who died here in his Travels. 
 
 Before the door of this Church hands the Eque- 
 
 ftris Statue in Brafs guilt, of Bartolomeo Coleono 
 Bargamenfe , a great Commander, to whom (as 
 the words bear;tf£ militare murium of time gejhm) 
 
 tfie 
 
1 56 «$e sot age of italy. Part it 
 
 the Senate decreed this Statue to be erefted. The 
 Tabernacle and Altar are very ftately.The Chap- 
 pel of St. Hidcinth , and the miracles of this Saint 
 are of the hand of Bajfan ^ndPalmarinoiThc Mar- 
 tyrdom of St. John and Paid is a Mafterpeice of the 
 hand of TitianiThc Convent alfo of St. John and 
 Paul is one ol the mod (lately ones in Italy * The 
 Refe&ory is famous for painting. 
 s. Saivm- ip.The Church of St.Sahatore is a fair Church, 
 
 Te * and well adorned with neat Tombs of divers Do- 
 ges and great Pcrfons. Upon the back of the high 
 Altar is feen a Picture of the Transfiguration, of 
 the hand of Titian. Upon an Altar on the right 
 hand of the wall , is a Picture of the Annuncia- 
 tion, under which Titian wrote thefe words, 77- 
 tianws ferity ferity to allure men by this double af- 
 firmative, that it was a good peice, worth his twice 
 owning. There^s another Picture of the lad Sup- 
 per, made by Titians Mader. Upon the EpifHe 
 fide of the high Altar dands a little Chappel, o- 
 ver whofe Altar is the Tomb of St.Theodoms with 
 his body in it. He is one of the Patrons of this 
 Town. 
 
 fucbryfo- 20 . In the Church of St. I faw, up- 
 
 on a fide Altar, on the left Hand, the Statues in 
 done of our Saviour and his twelve Apodles,neat- 
 ly cut, by Tallin* Lombardu* , whofe rare Statues 
 adorn alfo St. Antonie's Tomb at Padua . His Sta- 
 tues are eafily known by the neat hands. 
 
 ?i. In the Church of the Apoftoli I (aw a rare 
 Pi£ture of St. Lucy^ but now fomewhat old. 
 
 22.10 the Church of the Jefuits,I faw theTomb 
 of St. Bar bar a. Virgin and Martyr. 
 rhc Dom. 23. In the Dmo (the Cathedral of Venice^ but 
 
 (landing 
 
Part II. Of IT ALY. 257 
 
 (landing much out of the way) 1 faw little confi-* 
 derabie, but the Tomb of St. Laurentim J liftin': a~ 
 nws , an Holy Man, a great Preacher, and the firft 
 Patriarch of Venice : the Patriarchal leat of Or ado , , 
 being removed hither in lais time. 
 
 24. I faw alfo the Church of St. Jacomo^ the st.facom 
 firfl Church that was built in Venice , and built 
 twelve Hundred years ago, in the infancy of Ve- 
 nice^ as an old Infcription here told me. Here are 
 
 fome good Piftures of Lanfrancm and Marcm Ti- 
 tianws , old Titians Nephew and Scholar. 
 
 25. And being in Venice upon St. Georges day The Greek 
 fthe 23 d, of April) we went to the Greeks Church, C ^ urc ^ 
 
 1 mean to the Gree\Sc hifmat cs Church, which is 
 dedicated to God, in honour of St. George , and 
 therefore this day was one o r their greateil folem- 
 nities. Their Ceremonies and Service differed lit- 
 tle from the Catholics Greeks : And if any one de- 
 fire to know their Tenents, and how near they 
 come to] the Roman Cat holies fa him read a book, 
 in a thin I o lio ^ Printed at Wittemberg , an. 1 584. 
 under this Title, Acta {crip t a Theologorum EVit~ 
 tembergenfiiim & Hier emi^e Patriarch ts. 
 
 2 6. We went after dinner one Saturday , to fee The Jews 
 the d errs Synagogue. Among other things I heard ^y na M USi 
 here a Rabbin make a Homily to his Fleck. He 
 looked like a French Minifter,or Puritanical Le- 
 ffurer, in a fhort Cloak and Hat. The Snafling 
 through the Nofe , made all the edification that 
 
 I faw in it : It was in Italian , but the coldeft dif- 
 courfe that I ever heard in any language. Indeed 
 it was their Sabbath day ; and they eat no other 
 meat that day, but cold meat. 
 
 27. Another day we went to Mur am again, to the Ghfs * 
 fee the Glafs-houfes, which furnifh almoii all Eu- houfrs & 
 
 R r rope Mur 
 
cije dotage of italy* Pan n. 
 
 rope with drinking Glaffes, -and ail our Ladies Ca- 
 binets with Looking-glaffes. They utter here forth 
 two hundred Thoufand Crowns worth a year of 
 this britle ware ; and they feem to have taken 
 fneafure of every Nations Belly and humor, to 
 fit them with Drinking-glaffes accordingly : For 
 the High Dutch, they have high Gaffes., called 
 Flutes ^ a full yard long; which a man cannot drink 
 up alone, except his man, or fome other, hold up 
 the foot of this more than two handed Glafs. For 
 the Engliff that love Toafts with their drink,they 
 have curious Tankards of thick Chryftal glafs, 
 juft like our filver Tankards. For the Italians 
 that love to drink leifurely , they have Glaffes 
 that are almoft as large and flat as filver Plates, 
 and almoft as uneafie to drink out of. And fo for 
 other Nations. In one Shop they were making a 
 fet of Glaffes for the Emperor, of five Crowns e- 
 very Glafs : There were Drinking-glafles with 
 high Covers made like fpread Eagles, and finely 
 gilt. Sometimes to fhew their art, they make here 
 
 E retty things. One made a Ship in Glafs, with all 
 er Tacklings, Guns, Mafts, Sails and Streamers. 
 Another made an Organ in Glafs three Cubits 
 high, fo juftly contrived, that by blowing into it, 
 and touching "the flops , it founded mufically. A 
 third made a perfed Caftle, with all its fortifica- 
 tions , Ramparts , Cannons , Centry-houfes and 
 Gates Here alio I faw them make thofe vaft Look- 
 ing-glaffes, whofebrittlenefs fheweth Ladies them- 
 felves, more than their rcfieftion doth. In fine, in 
 Mur mo y you fee the Pallace of Signor Camillo 
 TSrevifanoy with the rare garden and Fountains 
 a la Remand* 
 
 18. After 
 
Part II. Cf)C 5 U 0 £Sg£ of ITALY. 259 
 
 a8. After tin’s we went up and down the Town The shops 
 of Venice , fometimes a foot, to fee better the Shops, 
 asthofeof Silks, Cloths of Gold, erf Bookstand 
 the Apothecaries Shops, where I law them make 
 their famous Treacle : lometimesin a Gondola*, to 
 view over and over again, the Canale Grande , 
 and the Brave Pallaces which hemmit in on both 
 fldes : fometimes entring into the beft of thofe Pal- 
 laces, to fee their rich furniture and contrivances. 
 
 The beft are, of Jufiiniani , Mocenjgo, Grimani , The patla* 
 Friuli^ Coni ar ini, Fofcoli , Loredano , Gujfoni and 
 Cornaro . 
 
 2.9. Then I enquired what learned men had r ^ Zww * 
 adorned Venice I found thefe to have been the 
 chief, Lavrentiys Jujlinianws , Hermolaus Bar bar us , 
 
 Fetrm Bembus,Aloyfws , Lippomanus, Fauks Faruta , 
 
 Bap tilt a Egnatm , Ludovicus Dolce^Paulus Mam - 
 tius , with divers others. I faw fome years ago the 
 noble and ingenious Loredano , whofe w itty books 
 make him famous over all the Academies of Zto- 
 /y and Europe. As alfo the Frocuraton Nani, whofe 
 excellent Hiftory hath got him immortal fame. 
 
 30. Kerens an Academy of wits, called Incogniti , srfe 
 and for their arms, they have the river Nilus with 
 this Incognito , £r pur noto • unknown, and 
 
 yet famous. 
 
 He that defires to know the Hiftory of Venice, The mpio- 
 let him read Andrea Morafini , P^/0 Faruta, Sa~ rians * 
 bellicoJBernardino Tomafino ; Cor/Wo and Nam. 
 
 Having thus feen all Venice, over and over a- 
 gain, in a months ftay there, I was meft willing to 
 leave it; having found it true of Venice , what 
 rratft faid of Athens , that it was melior mretrix 5 rife 
 quam uxor \ a fine Town for a fortnight; but net*/ Venice* 
 R. r 2 to 
 
260 fatyt Of ITALY. Part II, 
 
 to dwell in always; and this by reafon of fome 
 (linking Channels) bad Cellars for Wine; worfe 
 Water ; and the moift Air of the Sea, not the 
 mop wholefome 5 fcarcity of earth ? even to bury 
 their dead in ; and little fewel for firing. So that 
 finding the four Elements wanting here in their 
 purity ) I was willing to leave thefe polifned Hol- 
 landers ^ and return to Padua* 
 
 Mua. Padua is the fecondTown to the Venetian (late 3 
 though once the Mother of Venice . Its old enough 
 to be mother of RoMe it felf ; having been built by 
 Ante nor, whofeTomb is yet feen here.The Town 
 is very great, and fuller of good houfes 5 than of 
 Men of condition ; Tyranny and two frequent 
 Murders having much depopulated it, in point of 
 Nobility. It (lands in the Marca Trevtgiana . The 
 walls about it are (Irong, and back’d up with fine 
 ramparts. It lies near the Eugeni an Hills) in a fer- 
 tile foyl) and plain, which makes the Proverb lay, 
 Bologna la grajfagna Padua la pajfa . Its famous for 
 the (ludy of Phyfic, as many of our thrice worthy 
 Phyfitians in England cm teftify. The chief things 
 I obferved in it are thefe. 
 
 Anterior s i. AntenoVs Tomb with Gotic Letters upon it: 
 Tomb. Which makes me doubt whether this Tomb be 
 fo ancient as they make it. 
 
 a. The publick Schools called here II Bue, or 
 Oxe : What if the firft Readers here came from 
 Oxford, as they did to the Univerfity of Pavia ? 
 
 3. The Phyfic Garden, to acquaint the Student 
 in Phyfic, with the nature of Simples. 
 st. Antony’ t 4* The Church of St. Antony of Padua , whofe 
 ^Tomb* body lies in the open Chappel on the left hand ; 
 and this Chappel is adorned with curious figures 
 
 of 
 
Part II. C$e woym Of ITALY. 261 
 
 of white Marble, reprefenting the chief a&ionsof 
 this Saints life. Under the Altar repofeth his bo- 
 dy , and before it hang feme twenty feven great 
 Lamps of Silver, or Silver gilt. Overagainft this 
 Chappel, hands juft fuch another open Chappel, 
 callefi the Chappel of San Felice , which is rarely 
 painted by famous Gietto , who made the Campa- 
 nile of Florence. In a fide Chappel on the right 
 hand, is the Tomb of brave Gatta Mela , whofe 
 true name was Erafm di Ft ami , of whom more 
 by and by. The Tomb of Alexander Contarem 
 General of the Venetians , and it is oiie of the, bell 
 cut Tombs I have feen : Its fattened to a fide Pil- 
 lar. The Quire of this Church is all of inlaid wood. 
 
 In the Cloifter of the Convent are feen many 
 Tombs of learned Men : And in that quarter of 
 the Cloifter, which lies upon the Church, I found 
 written upon a black Marble ftone, thefe words : 
 
 Interior a Thorn* Horvardi Comitk Arondeli * : The 
 Bowels of the Earl of Arundel , late Lord Marfhal 
 of England. No wonder if his Bowels be enchaf- 
 ed in Marble, after his death, who in his lifetime, 
 loved Marbles con todas fas entranicvs , with his 
 whole Bowels. His Marmora Arondeli an ^commen- 
 ted upon by learned Mr. Selden , fhew this fuffici- • 
 ently. This great Man died here in Padua, and yet 
 in a manner at home ; becaufe he had made Ita- 
 ly familiar to him while he lived at home. 
 
 5. Going out of this Church, I faw the Equs- 
 jlris ftatue of Gatta Mela , the Venetians General, 
 whole Tomb I faw even now in the Church. He 
 
 was nicknamed Gatta , becaufe of his watchful- * . 
 neis in carrying bufinefs. ^ ^ church 
 
 6. The Church of St. Juftina , is one of the fi- an i Mona- 
 
 R r 3 neft ft cry. 
 
767 QID^age Of ITALY. Part IK 
 
 neft Churches of Italy ; and no wonder, feeing 
 its Archite t was Palladio . Under the High Altar 
 of this Church dies buried the Body,of St. Juftina. 
 The £ ne Cupolas 5 the curious Pavement of red 
 and black Marble ; the rich High Altar,ali of Pi- 
 etre comejfe * the curious Seats in the Quire, with 
 the Hiftories of the old and ne w Teftamentcutin 
 W ood in them ; the fine Pifture at the end of the 
 Quire, over the Abbat’s Seat, containing the Mar- 
 tyrdom of St. Jnftina , by the hand of Paolo Verone- 
 se ; the T mb ot St. Luke the Eyangelift ; and that 
 of St. Matthias ; the VV eh, full of Relics 5 and the 
 T omb of St. Profdocbmus St- Petr’s Difciple, and 
 firft Bifhop of Padua , do all make this Church ve- 
 ry confiderable. Before this Church and Monafte- 
 rv lies the Campo Sante y and a fair field,where they 
 keep Monthly a Merc ato franco , and where the 
 Evening Corfo iskept,by Ladies and Noblemen in 
 their Coaches in Summer. 
 
 The Ivlonaffcry -here is one of the faireft in Ita- 
 ly^ and the fecond of that Order. The painted 
 Cloifter, the neat Library, and the Pifture of St. 
 Juflina in the . Abbars Chamber, made by Paolo 
 Veronefe , are all worth your curiofity. The D omo 
 is not fo well built as it is endowed with rich Prehen - 
 claries y\n hundred Thouland Crowns a year go to 
 the maintainanceofanHundred Clergy-Men, and 
 Officers belonging to it. The Prebends are twenty 
 fever*, and ordinarily Gentlemen. 
 
 8. The Pailace of the Capitano Grande is late- 
 ly without : here ftands the curious Library. 
 
 Tk great ^ The great Hall called here, II Palagio di 
 9 Ragione , is a vaft room 180 paces long, and for- 
 
 ty broad, without Pillars. It hath four great doors 
 
 to 
 
 i 
 
Part II. < 2 Efje Wage Of ITALY. 263 
 
 oit, and over every door the ftatue of a learned 
 Paduan. This Hall is alfo painted in the roof, with 
 ^ftronomical figures ; reprefenting the influence 
 of the Superior bodies over the I ferior. At one 
 end of it you fee a round Stone, with thefe words 
 written about it fLapis opprohriipthe ftone of difgrace$ 
 upon which whofoever will fit publickly, and de- 
 clare himfelf not to be Solvendo, cannot be clapt 
 up in Prifon for Debt. At the other end of this 
 Hall hands Livy's Head in white Marble, and 
 out of a little Back-door there, joiningto the wall 
 of this Hall, (lands Livy's Bufto in Stone, with this 
 Epitaph under it in old Gothic Letters; Of a Titi 
 Livii Patavini uniws omnium mrtalium)udicio dig - 
 j», cu]m prope inviffo c alamo invicd Populi Roma- 
 ni res geft<e confer iberentur. c . 
 
 10. The Pidure of the High Altar in the An- fti no . US " 
 guftins Church, made by Guido Rheni 3 and that 
 of St. John Baptifl in the Sacrifly, of the fame 
 hand are bothexquifitely well done. . 
 
 j 1. The Ruins of an old Amphitheater are feen L ml ' 
 hard by the Auguftin’s Church. There’s now a 
 Houfe built upon the place, yet the Court is oval 
 ftill, and carries the name or Arena. Here they 
 tilt, and ufe other fports of Cavalry 
 
 12. In the Dominicans Church there is a very St. Domi- 
 ftately high Altar of Pietre comefe . Behind the n * co * 
 Altar ( in the Quire ) are the neat Tombs 
 of the Carari , once Signors and Princes of Pa- 
 dua , till they were put out by the Venetians . b V Fran- 
 i3-In the Church of San France fco Grande f I ce ^ co - 
 faw a curious Altar of white polifhed Marble , 
 which pleafed me very much, and the Tombs 
 of Cavalcante and Longolio . 
 
 R. r 4 14. In 
 
16 4 of ITALY. Part II. 
 
 PtThom- 14. In the little eat Church of the Oratonans , 
 df . called the Church of 5 . Thomas of Canterbury S yes 
 kmuma. ^ uf j e d c h e Cady father me Whitenhalf in a Vault 
 made on purpofe,and covered widi a white Marble 
 Stone. She was Daughter to the late Earl of Shrews- 
 bury ,and Wife to the Noble and V ertuous Thomas 
 Wtntenhall Ef quire . If you would know more of 
 her, read here the Ingenious Epitaph written upon 
 her Tomb, and made by her fad Husband. For 
 my part, having had the honour to fee her often 
 in her Travels, I cannot but make honourable 
 mention of her here in mine; She having fo much 
 honoured my profeffion of Travelling, by her 
 generous Humour of Travelling. She was as 
 nobly Born as the houfe of Shrewsbury could make 
 'far : as comely, as if Poets had made her . Her be- 
 havlour was fuch , that if fhe had not been noble by 
 Birth , fhe would have faffed for f %ch by her Carri- 
 age. . Her good qualities were fo many , that if they 
 had been Uken i v 'pieces » they wo M have made fe- 
 ver al women No fie , and noble Women happy . She 
 rvat wile beyond her years, ftut above her Sex , and 
 worthy to have founds in the World^all things letter 
 than fhe did, except her Parents and Husband. Her 
 only fa m was that, which would have made up other 
 Ladies Praifes , too much Courage ; which befell her 
 with ihe name of Talbot. But whilfl her only Courage 
 haled her on to Journeys above her Sex and force (ha- 
 ving feen FJanders, France, and Italy , accompanied 
 by her mbleHinsband^and an handfome Train )in her 
 return back* tiki & tall Ship , wining laden home y and 
 ^ Actuk- hwghted with precious acqufmons of Mind ^ fhe funk, 
 vuis of almoft in the Haven , and aloes l Died. 
 
 1 5. Here are two Academies of Witsyhc one called 
 Grit Recover ati : the other, Oli Infiammatu The 
 

 
 
 Part II. motm Of ITALY. 1^5 
 
 The mod famous Men of Padua for Learning Theieam 
 were thefe, Lizy^Af fomun, Paulies the Jurisconsult , ed Men * 
 
 Sf crone Sferoniy Antonim Querenchm, Jacobies Aa- 
 bar ell a: and Titian the famous Painter. 
 
 He that defires to know the Hiftory of Padua^ 
 let him read Angelo Portinari delle felicitade di Pa- 
 dua : Antonio Kiccobono , de Gymnajio Patavino, & rim * 
 de ejm free lards do cion bus' as alfo the Book called 
 Gl r Origin di Padua. 
 
 Slaving thus feen Padtia ^ we fleered towards Mi- 
 lan again,to make the compleat Gyro of Italy . The 
 firft days Journey was to Vicenza , a fine Town be- Ficen^i* 
 longing to the Venetians ^ and (landing uppn the two 
 Rivei s Bachilione , and Kerone.Ha:c we faw the neat 
 Town-houfe and large Piazza : the Houfeand 
 fine Garden of Count Valmrana ^ with the curions 
 Labyrinth in the Garden: the Arcies Priumfhalis^ 
 made by Palladio at the Towns enddetting you in- 
 to a fair Field called the Champ Macro , where La- The The*. 
 dies and Cavaliers in great {lore, meet at the Corfo Ur * 
 in their Coaches every- Summer Evening : thead- 
 mirabe T heater for Plays and Of era's-, it was made 
 allb by rare Palladio j and is capable of three Thou- 
 fand People, who may all fit and fee with con- 
 veniency. The fine Pallaces here, and thofe full 
 of People of Condition. 
 
 Here’s an Academy of Wits called Gl y Olymfici. Aca ^ m 
 
 He that defires to know the Hiftory of Vicen- my of wits, 
 za^kt him read J acorn Marzari , and Alfonfo T fo jzyt Qm 
 Lojchl . runs* 
 
 From Vicenza , we went to Verona , called I e- 
 ran 1 la N.bile^ belonging to the Venetians alfo. It 
 (lands in excellent Air, and no man ever faw it Vemu 
 but l.'ked it. Its watered with the River Addefis , 
 
 which 
 
 V 
 
2 66 €$e mio^agc Of ITALY. Part II. 
 
 which coming out of Germany ^ runs by Treaty and 
 fo to Verona- Hence this Town abounds with good 
 Piwifion,Wine,and rich Merchants, which makes 
 me of opinion, that Verona would be a better Sum- 
 mer-Town for Strangers to live in than Padua. 
 The things that I faw hete, were thefe : the three 
 Cadies, which with the new Bulwarks, make this 
 Town able to defend it felf againfl any Enemy. 
 
 2. The Cathedral,or Domo, ancient rather than 
 {lately : In it is buried Pope Lucius the III, with 
 this ingenuous Epitaph upon his Tomb : 
 
 Luca de 'it lucem tibl , Luci, Pontificatum 
 
 Oftia , Papatm Koma, Verona mir'u 
 Imo Verona dedit tibi Lucis gaudia f Roma 
 
 Exilium , turas Oftia f Luca mori. 
 
 3. The famous Tomb of the Signori della Sea - 
 ldj who once were Mailers here, and from whom 
 Jofteph and Julim Scaliger pretend to have come; 
 This Tomb is feen from the Street, and is much 
 cfleemed for its heighth and ftru&ure: 
 
 4. In the Monaflery of St. George , the rare Pi- 
 cture of St. George , made by Paolo Veronefe , for 
 which the late Lord Marfhal of England offered 
 
 ' two Thoufand Piftols. 
 
 the Ant- 5* The rare Amphitheater , built at firfl by the 
 phitheater. Conful FlaminiuS) and repaired fince by the Towns- 
 men 5 and now the mod cntivcAmphitheater in 
 Europe. 
 
 The Ac ik- Here’s alfo an Academy of Wits, called Gli 
 
 myof Wits. J 
 
 J Thilormomci, 
 
 The Learn Tlie kmoufeft Men for Learning here, were 
 edmen. thefe: Zeno Veronenfis, anantient Father, andgreat 
 Preacher. Cornelius Nepos^Pliny the fecond fiatullus 
 according to that, Mantua 
 
Part II. motage Of ITALY. 367 
 
 Mantua Virgilio gaudet, Verona Catidlo . 
 
 Fracaftorius, Omphrius , Panuinm , Paulm JEmilim 
 the Hiftorian ; Francejco Pona ; Aloyfim Novari 
 nuty and Paolo Veroneje the ingenious Painter. 
 
 Near Firo^upon the Plains, before you come 
 to the Town,was fought a famous Battail, where G. 
 
 Mcirim defeated the timbers . Near this Town alfo 
 was fought a famous Battail between T heodoric and 
 Odoacer , where the latter was defeated. 
 
 He that defires to know the Hiftory of Verona , The Hifo. 
 let him read T orello Saraina , Girolamo di Corte , 
 Compendio dell * Tjffor/tf dfc Verona ; and the Antique 
 tates Veronenfes of Onufrim Pan aims. 
 
 From Verona we went to Brefcia> by the wav of Pe f c ^ r ^ 
 Pefchiera and Vifenzano, Pefchiera is a ftrong fort 
 belonging to the Venetians , and guarded by a con- .. 
 
 ftant Garifon. It hands upon the Lago ^ Garda, cf^a! 
 Lac us Benacm anciently, and is almoft furroundea 
 by its Chryfiallin Waters. It>s a mod regular For- 
 tification, with five Baftions, and high Ramparts, 
 which cover the whole Town. 
 
 D ifenzano is a little Town upon the Lake of 
 Garda alfo. Here they have excellent Fiftt, and Vl h en t an0 * 
 Wine; that is, rare Carpioni , and Mufcatello y 
 which they call Vino Santo . 
 
 From hence after Dinner we arrived betimes at Brefcfo 
 Brefcia , another ftrongTown of the Venetians. We 
 faw here the Caftle,the Towivhoufe neat, Church- 
 es ; the Pvampartsand Walls of the Town; the 
 Chriftalline Brooks running through the Streets; 
 and the Shops of theGunfmiths, efpccially that of 
 famous Lazzarino Comminaw. 
 
 The bed Hiftorians of the Brefcian- affairs, is The BiAo* 
 Ottavio RoJJiyn his Book called Memorise Brefcian*. ry. 
 
 From 
 
to 
 
 
 1 6% 5U0^age Of ITALY. Part II. 
 
 From Brefda I went once to Cr mafic "Bergamo , 
 €rema: two ftrong T owns of the V enetians,and both Iron- 
 
 tiers to the State of Milan . The firft is verv ftrong 
 Urgmo. anc j f amous f or £ ne li nn en made here.Tfie latter 
 is ftrong too,both by its Caftle,good walls, and its 
 high fituation upon an hill,which gives you a fair 
 profpeft into the Milanese for twenty or thirty 
 miles* In the Church of the Auguftins lyes buryed 
 Amir? fins Calefinus, Author of the excellent Latin 
 ViSHonaryiwhich learned Pajferatius hath fet out 
 fince with great additions. Its in fix languages. 
 
 From Bergamo I went to Milan , one days jour- 
 Mm nty. An other time I went from Brefcia to Milan 
 n u 9 by the way of Mantua , and Mirandola . 
 
 Mantua belongs to a Sovereign Duke, or Prince, 
 of the houfeof Gonfague. It ftands in the midftof 
 Marfhes which are nourilhed by the River Mind - 
 us: fothat there’s no coming to it but by two long 
 bridges over the Lake. And yet this Town was 
 taken feme forty years ago: no Town being im- 
 pregnable where an Afs laden with Gold can en- 
 ter 5 or where fa&ion keeps one gate. For about 
 that time, the Emperor’s Army, by fecret intelli- 
 gence, prefenting it felf before it, was let in 5 and 
 lacked the Town. At the entrance of the Town 
 gates, they obfervc the falhion of many other 
 Towns in Italy $ to make Travellers leave their Pf- 
 ftols and Carabins at the gate where they enter, 
 and not fee them again till they meet them at the 
 other gate where they go out ; giving them, for all 
 that,a contrafegnO) or little talley, whereof you keep 
 one piece, ana the other is tyed to your Piftols, 
 whereby you may claim and challenge them.This 
 was an ancient cuftom in the Romans times,as I 
 
 find 
 
Part II. CJ)e flJOtfSgfc Of ITALY. 269 
 
 find in Valerius Maximus , who faith ,it was the pra- 
 ctice of thofe of Marseilles (then a Roman Colonie ) v V^ r ' 
 uthojpitia Jua,quemaJmodum adveniemibus hmana 
 funt,ita ipfis tuta Jim. As for Mantua it felf, it’s well * ” * 
 built, and full of good houfes.The Duke’s Pallace 
 was heretofore one of the richefl of Italy. I was told 
 that it had feaven changes of hangings for every 
 room in the houfe ; befides a world of rare pi- 
 ctures, Statues, plate, ornaments, cabinets, an Vni- 
 cornesnomym Organ of Alablajler ; fix tables. each 
 one three foot long, the firft all of Emerands, the fe- 
 cond of Turfy ftones,the third of Hyacinths , the 
 fourth of Saphyrs, the fifth of Amber , the fixth of 
 Jafpar tone. But the Imperialifts fwept all away. 
 
 The origin of the houfe of Gonfague is from Ger- 
 many Tom long time they were only Marquees o{ * lh 
 MantuaySA Charles the V .made them Dukes.The &; s j^ ve . 
 Revenues of this Prince are about five hundred nues . 
 thoufand crownes.His Intereft ( as that of the other His intsf ~ 
 lefler Princes of Italy) is to joynwith the ftronger 
 of the two Nations France, or Spain. And he hath 
 been often forced to put now and then a French c r . 
 garrifon, now and then a Spanijh garrifon into his * 
 ftrong Town of Cafal, one of the ftrongeft places l ftrcngtk 
 faw in all Italy : having an excellent Cittadel at one 
 end of it 3 a ftrong Caftle at the other, and ftrong 
 ditches, walls, and ramparts every where. In fine, 
 this Duke can raife, about fifteen thoufand foot, 
 and two thoufand horfe. 
 
 Of Mantua were thefe two excellent Latin 
 Poets;old Virgil, and. modern Baptijla Mantuanus 
 a Carmelite. Its njto^ n 
 
 He that defires to know theHitory of Mantua , 
 let him read Mario Aquicola . 
 
 From 
 
270 
 
 Mir%n- 
 doll . 
 
 Franc if. 
 eus 
 F his. 
 Leander. 
 Albatus, 
 
 tmosage of italy. Part il 
 
 From Mantua we went to Mirandola being in- 
 vited thither by its wonderful name. It is a princi- 
 pality far more ancient than great 5 and it is fo 
 called, from three children born here of a great 
 Lady, at one birth.The ftory,as it is pretty ,fo it is 
 related by good Authors, and therefore I will give 
 it you herein the end of this my Italian journey, 
 as a fare well And ’tis this. Conftantius the Empe- 
 ror/on of Constantin the great,had a daughter cal- 
 led Eundis $ who being grown up in years, fell in 
 love 'with Manfr?d a Courtier of her Uncle Cm- 
 flantin,an handfome well bred young gentleman. 
 Manfred was bodi Courtier enough, and wife e- 
 nough, to underhand this to be no fmall honor 5 
 and therefore embraced her affeflion with a cof- 
 refponding flamein a word they meet often ; talk 
 of it 5 give mutual promifes; make all the money 
 they can, and jewels, and flee away fecretly .They 
 come into Italy, land at Naples , from thence to 
 Ravenna 5 and at laft pitch upon this country 
 where now Mirandola ftands. It was then a place 
 overfpread with thickets and underwoods, and fur- 
 nifhing fome pafturage for fheep, and cottages for 
 fliepherds. Here then they chofe to live privately 
 and converfewith none bur country f wains, anci 
 fhepherds. Blind love whither doft thou hurrey 
 Princeffes, to make them prefer cottages before 
 Courts ? At laft,with their money they buy land, 
 and Manfred grows foon to that authority among 
 his neighbours, that they choofe him for their 
 head $ and recur unto him upon all occafions for 
 his advice and protefHon : In the mean timef ha- 
 ving folemnly marrved Eundis at his arrival in 
 Italy) the brings him forth three Ions at once, Pic us, 
 
 PiuSj 
 
part n. ©u^age of italy. 271 
 
 Pius. and Papazzo *, and Manfred grows far more 
 confiderable dayly in thefe parts. At laft the Em- 
 peror Conftamm coming into Italy upon his occa- 
 sions, and being complimented by all the feveral 
 Provinces thereof, this Province, among the reft, 
 chofe Manfred , as their Embaflador to the faid 
 Emperor, to carry to him the tender of their re- 
 fpedsand homage. Manfred accepted of the em- 
 ployment, and carryed himfelf fo gallant ly in 
 the Embaffy, that 1 the Emperor knighted him, 
 and upon further tryal of his worth ravfed him 
 to high favour. Manfred feeing the realities of the 
 Emperor, thought know high time to difeover 
 himfelf unto him. Wherefore cafting himfelf one 
 day at the Emperor’s feeuand begging his pardon, 
 he difeovered himfelf unto him, and told him his 
 whole ftory, and adventures. At firft the Empe- 
 ror was a little troubled ; but finding fuch free- 
 dom and gallantry in his carriage, , mingled with 
 fuch humble ingenuity in the confeflion of his 
 fault ; he not only pardoned what was paft, but 
 prefently fent for Pundit and her children to 
 come to him, and live at Court with him. This 
 done he makes Manfred Count and Marquis of a 
 great part of thefe countries, and gives him leave 
 to build Towns and Caftles there : and for his 
 arms gives him the black EagleJn fine,in memory 
 of the three children born fo wonderfully at one 
 birth, he commands that the cheif Town fhould 
 be called Miranda. After the death ol Conftantius y 
 Manfred and his Lady returned with great riches 
 unto their old dwelling place, and there began to 
 build Miranda ; which in procefs of time was cal- 
 led Mtrandolafrbis true ftory,if it look like a Ro- 
 mance, 
 
1 
 
 272 <mo?age of italy. Part n. 
 
 mancc, you muft not wonder;. feeing Romances 
 now a days, look like true ftories. 
 
 The Prince of Mir^ndola receives yearly four- 
 fcore thonfand crowns. 
 
 Vim The greatcft ornament of this country, was 
 Miranda* that famous Joannes Picus Mirandulanm ; whofe 
 hnus. life S -Thomas Mm wrote, and having written it, 
 
 lived it. 
 
 From MirondulaHheuck to Parma , and fo to 
 Piacenza, Lodi, and Marigno, defcribed all above; 
 and at laft to M lan again, where I had been be- 
 fore, and where my Giro of Italy ended, as now 
 my Journey and Defcription doth. I taking here 
 a new rife from Milan , and eroding though Smf- 
 ferland by the Lake of Como, and over Mount Sn 
 Godart , came to Bajil- Where einbarking upon 
 the Rhene, I faw Strasbourg , Brifac , Spire, Philips - 
 bourg, Openhem , Coblentz , Hamerflede , PVorms, 
 Francfurt , Mayence , Cofe, D ujfeldorp^ Skinksconce^ 
 
 Rais , Arnehem , and divers other Khenifli 
 
 Towns then having viewed Holland and fZ*#- 
 dfcry, I came at laft to Qto, and fo home to my 
 own dear Country, England^ by way of Dover. 
 
 FINIS . 
 

 TABLE 
 
 O F T H E 
 
 NAMES 
 
 Of the chief To"tom contained in this Second 
 
 VA^TS. 
 
 A. 
 
 Dria. 
 
 A ] 
 
 Albano. 
 
 Aruicla’. 
 
 Ancona. 
 
 Affifium. 
 
 Avcria. 
 
 l6 A 
 
 1 69 
 \68 
 
 B. 
 
 Baix. 
 
 Bergamo. 
 
 Brecia. 
 
 G 
 
 221 Caeca* 
 
 1 67 Capua. 
 
 2j a Campania. 
 
 202 Carigliano, River. 167 
 
 269 
 
 216 
 120 
 
 217 
 268 
 191 
 I90 
 
 160 Cafal. 
 Oatholica. 
 Ceravalle. 
 Cafena. 
 
 187 Crema. 
 
 268 Cuma. 
 
 267 Cicero’s Baths. 
 
 D. Difenfano. 
 
D. 
 
 TheTABLE. 
 
 Difenfano. 267 
 
 E 
 
 Elifian Fields. 1 88 
 
 F. 
 
 Faenza. 
 
 Fano. 
 
 Ferrara. 
 
 Foligni. 
 
 Forli. 
 Formi.T. 
 Folia Nova. 
 Ferfcati. 
 Fundi. 
 
 G. 
 
 ar8 
 
 3*5 
 
 2Ip 
 
 202 
 
 217 
 
 r<53 
 
 m 
 
 164 
 
 Gandulfo. 194 
 
 Grotta dell Cane. 184 
 Grotta di Pofilipo. 183 
 St.Gannaro’s Stoves. 185 
 
 K. 
 
 Kingdom of Naples. 1 70 
 Kingdom of Cyprus. 228 
 
 La Laguna. 221 
 
 Lacus Avernus. 191 
 
 Lago di Garda. 
 Loreto. 
 
 M. 
 
 Macerafa. 
 
 Mantua. . 
 
 Marino. 
 
 Mintuma. 
 
 Mirandola. 
 
 Mola. 
 
 Mons Maflicus. 
 Monte Falco. 
 Monte Garo. 
 Murano. 
 
 N. 
 
 Naples. 
 
 Narni. 
 
 267 
 
 203 
 
 20 
 
 167 
 270 
 l6 J 
 l68 
 202 
 168 
 252 
 
 * 7 * 
 
 201 
 
 Padua. i6o 
 
 Palma Nova. 279 
 Paufilipus Mr. 183 
 Peperno. 163 
 
 Pefero. 215 
 
 Pefchicra. 2 <57 
 
 Puzzolo. 170 
 
 R. 
 
 Recanata. 203 
 
 Rimini. 217 
 
 Rome. 3. dec. 
 
 Ruigo. 221 
 
 Rut icon. 
 
Tie TABLE. 
 
 Rubicon, Riv. 
 
 217 
 
 s. 
 
 Senegal! ia. 
 
 215 
 
 Spoleto. 
 
 201 
 
 Sulphatara. 
 
 i 8<5 
 
 T. 
 
 Taradna. 
 
 163 
 
 Terni. 
 
 2ox 
 
 Tyber,Riv. 
 
 200 
 
 TiyolL 
 
 198 
 
 Tolentino. 230 
 
 Tres Taberna?. 163 
 
 V. 
 
 Veletri. 165 
 
 Venice. 223 
 
 Verona. 265 
 
 Vefuvius, Mt. 179 
 
 Via Apia. 164 
 
 Via Flaminia. 200 
 
 Vicenza. 265 
 
 Villa Ludovifia. 19 7 
 

 m 
 
= = 3 ===