Gbe Bbbev Gburcb of St. Bibans SOME ACCOUNT OF THE ABBEY CHURCH ST. ALBAN. ILLUSTRATIVE PLANS, ELEVATIONS, AND SECTIONS, THAT BUILDING. LONDON: PRINTED BY NICHOLS, SON, AND BENTLEY, RED LION PASSAGE, FLEET STREET. 1813. ADVERTISEMENT. THE SOCIETY OF ANTIQUARIES, in prosecution of their design of publishing accurate measures of all the principal Ecclesiastical Buildings of England, now present to the Public the Plans, Elevations, and Sections, of The Abbey Church of St. Alban ; engraved from mea¬ sured Drawings by Mr. John Carter, at the Expense of the late Richard Gough, Esquire, by whom they were presented to The Society; and accompanied by accounts, both by Mr. Gough and Mr. Carter, of such things as appeared to them worthy of remark in the course of their Survey of that antient and venerable Building. The Council having entrusted to Sir Henry Englefield, Baronet, the superintendence of this Work, the whole has been carefully revised through the Press by him; and Mr. Gough’s Notes, which, at his death, were left imperfect, have been completed by the assistance of James Brown, Esquire, and John Nichols, Esquire, Members of The Society. OBSERVATIONS ON THE ABBEY CHURCH OF ST. ALBAN. In what Mr. Camden calls the more antient and interior parts of the county of Hertford, twelve miles west from Hertford, five from Bishop’s Hatfield, and twenty-one from London, was Verolamium, or, as Tacitus, Verulamium, or, as Ptolemy, OTPOAANION, which names are still retained in that of Vcrulam; which Humphrey Llwyd interprets Gwerllan, the Temple on the Ver. The Saxons called it Werlamceaster, and from the Roman road Watling-street, which ran on its south side, Watlinga- ceaster. It stood on a hill gently sloping to the east, fortified with very strong walls, a double and even treble rampart, and deep ditches to the south; on the east a single immense ditch, and bank within; and defended on the west by a single bank, a large terrace within the wall; and on the north by the river Ver, antiently forming a large marsh, called Fishpool, now confined for the ac¬ commodation of a mill, formerly belonging to the abbey. It is supposed that it is the city or fortress of Cassibelan, fortified by woods and marshes, and forced by Csesar, who does not mention its name. In Nero’s time it ranked as a municipium, as enjoying the privileges of Roman citizenship, and the holding of public offices in the State. In this Emperor’s reign, Boadicea, queen of the Iceni, de¬ stroyed the place, then esteemed a principal city. It recovered from this calamity, and rose to the highest eminence. We hear, however, nothing particular about it till the introduction of Chris¬ tianity into the dominions of Rome. Then it gave protection to Alban , a man eminent for his sanc¬ tity and steady adherence to the faith, for which he suffered martyrdom on a hill covered with wood, and afterwards by a church erected to his memory, which Bede describes as of excellent workman¬ ship. Germanus, bishop of Auxerre, and Lupus, bishop of Troyes, held a synod here A.D. 429, to confute the Pelagian heresy. In honour of the first of these a chapel was erected without the walls on the North, now totally destroyed. Verulam came not long after into the hands of the Saxons, but was retaken by the Britons, and again reverted to the Saxons. While it remained ruined by these wars, Offa king of Mercia founded, as a poor atonement for the murder of his son-in-law, A. D. 793, on Holm/iursl, the woody hill before mentioned, a spacious monastery in honour of Christ and of Saint Alban, whose remains had been discovered there ; and a town soon arose round it. The church was royally endowed, and enjoyed many privileges and immunities, particularly an exemption from the Apostolic tax called Romescot, which the abbot collected and applied to his own use, and had episcopal authority over all the clergy and laity of its estates; and as Saint Alban was protomartyr, so his abbot ranked first among the abbots of England. The materials of the old city were applied to the monastic buildings; and we trace Roman bricks in every part of the church. The revenues of this house at the dissolution were estimated at <£.2,102 per annum. The mayor and burgesses purchased the abbey church for £.400. Sir Thomas Pope, by his interest and particular application to the king, preserved this noble Saxon church; and it remains, remarkable for its size, beauty, and antiquity. 2 The transepts and tower, with the upper half of the north aile of the nave, are of the Noiman style of Henry I. The beautiful western arches of the nave, with its south aile and the rest of aile, and the west porch, probably built by abbot Roger, are of the time of Edward I The choir is to be referred to the reign of Henry III. ; and the Lady Chapel, now converted mto a school, wa, built by abbot Hugo de Eversden, soon after 1308. The whole fabrick was greatly beautified byabbotWheat- hamsted, in the reign of Henry VI. The rich front of the altar was the work of abbot Wallmgfoi , e- tween 1476 and 1484. His successor, Thomas Ramryge, who died 1524, has an e egant ig t sepu - chral chapel on the north side of the choir, opposite to the plainer tomb of Wheathamsted ; near which last is a most rich brass, that lay over abbot He la Mare; and half another for abbot Stoke, who died 1451. On the south side of the presbytery, the space between the high altar and the Lady Chapel, where stood the shrine of Saint Alban, marked by six holes in the pavement, is a rich sepulchral cha¬ pel, erected by abbot Wheathamsted for his friend and patron Humphrey duke of Gloucester, uncle of king Henry VI. and supposed to have been the victim of court intrigues. His corpse was found in the beginning of the last century in perfect preservation, embalmed in a kind of pickle, inclosed in coffins of lead and wood; but now only a few of the bones and the lead are left, and a crucifix painted at the foot of the vault. In the chancel is a brass figure of a man in armour, under which was, till very lately, half of the inscription, denoting that it represented Anthony, son of Edmund de Grey earl of Kent, who died 1480, and was brother in law to Edward the Fourth s queen. In this church was buried Robert de Mowbray earl of Northumberland, who is said to have been buried here, in 1106, and to have been either a prisoner, or a monk of Saint Alban’s; and the Lady Chapel was filled with the bodies of the slain in the two battles fought in this town, among whom were Edmund duke of Somerset grandson of John of Gaunt, Henry earl of Northumberland son of Hotspur, and Thomas lord Clifford; whose memorials, if they had any, are perished. The large bones of the earl of North¬ umberland were supposed to be taken up before the altar by the late sexton. The shrine of Saint Alban, behind the high altar, where the six holes mark its pillars, was most richly adorned with gold, silver, and precious stones, by Offa and other benefactors. In the centre of the ceiling of the north transept, among coats of arms held by angels, is a painting of his martyrdom; and on the wall over the arch of the north aile of the choir, is a wretched daubing of Offa, seated on his throne, crowned and holding his sceptre, and under him these two lines: Quem mal6 depictum et residentem ceraitis alt6 Sublimem solio, Mercius Offa fiiit. In the middle of the space west of the area under the tower, is the font, which has succeeded the fine metal one, in which several princes of Scotland had been baptized, brought from Leith when taken by Sir Richard Lee, who presented it to this church : it was embezzled in the time of the civil war. At the end of the south transept is a curious and very antient part of the old cloister. Rich arches, of the south and east cloister, remain against the walls of the church, but their area has long been turned up, and left waste. The church consists of a nave, with two ailes, two transepts, a space between the nave and choir (or ante-choir, or baptistery,) separated from the former by a rich screen; a choir, with two ailes, opening by two lofty pointed arches into a chapel, or presbytery, in which a shrine for the duke of Gloucester was built by abbot Wheathamsted; beyond which, eastward, is the Lady Chapel and between them is now a common thoroughfare. 3 The whole church from east to west is 600 feet, whereof from the west door to the high altar 411 feet; from thence, including the chapel of the shrine, to the east end of the Lady chapel, is 189 feet. The breadth of the transept is nearly 32 feet; its extreme length 174; of the nave, with its ailes, 74 feet and a half. Hawksmoor's plan, taken in 1721, makes its length 550 feet; height of the nave 65 feet, of the ailes 30, of the tower 144 feet Ihe eleven eastern arches of the nave seem coeval with the tower and transepts, being, like them, of Saxon work. Three of these arches on each side are taken into the ante-choir, and are all of them round, of three sweeps ; the pillars massive and irregular, and composed of rubble work and Roman bncks, and covered with a coat of plaster. The middle story has over each one elliptical arch, with windows of three demi-quatrefoil days, and the upper arches are round and long. In one of these upper windows remain the arms of France and England, quarterly, under a label of three points. The remaining arches below, nine on the north and ten on the south side, are pointed, and the pillars octagon, composed of a round and square shaft alternately. The nunneries above all these are di¬ vided into two days resting on triple round pillars, of which the middle cloister has fine flowered capi¬ tals ; and the centre sweep of all their arches is composed of open flowers. The upper story consists of pointed arches, of three round pillars, which on the north side only are separated by a plain inter- columniation, on which are cut two pointed arches. The numieries on the north side are eight, hav¬ ing nail-head quatrefoils between their pillars, and on one sweep of all their arches, and a border of the same below. On the south side are twenty nunneries, from which a pilaster, representing an in¬ verted finial, drops to the space between the three last lower arches. Ten of these last nunneries want the demi-quatrefoils to their days : the other, or more eastern ten of this south side, instead of nail- head quatrefoils to the pillars, &c. have flowers in the pillars and arches, and stand on a border of roses, having ling capital pillars, and large trefoils between the days of the six lowest, corresponding with those on the north side, the other tour having complete quatrefoils in the same place. John de Celia, twenty-first abbot, in the reign of John, rebuilt the west front of the church, and probably so much of the nave as rests on these arches — if the style of the nunneries be not too im¬ proved for so early a period; or rather, as before observed, of the reign of Edward I. Thomas de la Mare, about 1350, new paved the nave, and adorned the church more richly than any of his prede¬ cessors. Over the South-east arches of the nave are carved shields, with three lions passant guardant twice, the arms of Mercia and Edward the Confessor, and the busts of a king, queen, bishop, and abbot. The nine windows of the north aile, reaching to where the newer arches begin, and corre¬ sponding only to the older ones, are painted, and consist of two days and three quatrefoils, with short round pillars to the outer and inner arch, with Saxon and flowered capitals. These are known to be the work of Wheathamsted between 1420 and 1440. There remain, held by whole-length angels, three crowns Or; Azure, a saltire, or the arms of the Abbey; Barry of six. Or and Gules, within a bordure of the last; and certain broken inverted sentences, the indisputable marks of that sententious abbot, besides the lamb and eagle at the sides. The windows of the south aile have an arch pointed, and reaching to the ground, except three short ones, that have nail-head quatrefoils and Saxon capitals. In the larger ones the windows do not reach to the ground: their middle part has been filled with verses, of which remain only these in the most western: [ MDCXXIII. ] This image of our frailty, painted glass, Shews where the Life and Death of Alban was. A knight beheads the Martyr, but so soon His eyes drop out to see what he has done. ■: 4 And leaving their own head, seem with a teare To wail the other head lay mangled there. Because before his eyes no teares would shed, Hi. eye. themselves, like teares, Ml hi. head. O bloody fact, the whiles Saint Alban dies, The murderer himself weeps out his eyes. [In zeal to Heaven, where holy Alban’s bones Were buried, Offa raised this heap of stones; Which, after by devouring Time abused, Into the dying parts had life infused By James the first of England], to become [The glory of Alban’s] protomartyrdom. These windows, if not made by Wheathamsted, are of his age: they are dl ™k d 1 jj ^ contained the histories explained below. The abbey arms remain here and there. Th.s groined roof, supported by the outer pillars of the windows. „ _ The older pillars of the nave, which, with the transepts and tower, were bu.lt by Paul, a Norman, fourteenth abbot, are, as before observed, an assemblage of materials from Vernlam cemented l„ one mass, and covered with a thick coat of plaster. Nothing can be conceived more rude and simple. In one is a staircase, the door filled up, communicating with the nunneries all round. On the west face of another on the north side were traces of an old painting, recovered by Mr. Kent the c er , an representing, in feint colours, the Salutation of the Virgin Mary, or the Martyrdom of St. A ban (since completely destroyed by white-washing, laid on a few years ago). These pillars are square or round, just as the materials could be united together, and have neither base nor capitals. The two transepts are in the same Saxon style, and of the same date. The arches in the middle row are divided into four, with round arches and thick pillars. Above and below these are small round receding arches, like loopholes. The end windows have been added or altered in later ages, and have very modern or no tracery. In the north-west angle of the south transept is a small window to a kind of closet in the wall, which does not now communicate with the church, but is supposed to have been a place where recreant monks might hear service ; or, perhaps, if the infirmary was over that part of the cloister, it might serve the same purpose for sick monks. The cielings of both transepts are boarded, and painted in squares, with the arms of benefactors, supported by angels and alternately. The cieling of the nave is painted in the same squares, but flowered, and on the flowers lions, and in the centre tljc. Its centre, including the ante-choir, was discovered by Mr. Lightoler, when he surveyed and took drawings of the church several years ago, to be between the fourth arch from the screen westward, where, upon clapping the hands, or stamping, a sound, like the rattling of the boards, is returned both to the person under the spot, and to one eastward as far as the screen. The screen of the ante-choir is like that of the high altar, but more defaced. Seven pointed taber¬ nacles, with each three pointed rich purfled finials, and separated from each other by purfled but¬ tresses, stand over ten smaller tabernacles on a border of quatrefoils above the spot where once stood an altar, which has been long removed, perhaps soon after the Reformation. On each side of this site of the altar is a door, and on each side of the door the same kind of tabernacles as the larger, having under them, on the South side, long plain arches in relief, and on the north side a canopy of seven shorter tabernacles, with groined roofs curving forwards, and an embattled moulding above. Over the whole screen is a fascia of roses; then another of demi-quatrefoils; and the whole is crowned with a battlement of oak-leaves. These tabernacles were undoubtedly filled with saints; but to whom 5 the altar belonged, any more than the use of the ante-choir, which is open at both sides, does not ap¬ pear. At present the font stands in the middle of it — a neat marble bason on a shaft, under a wooden dome of three pillars, surmounted by a brass dove. Willis says, this wooden building preserves the Jashio/i of the font brought out of Scotland by Lee: the sexton affirmed this of the bason and dove. The only inscription on it now is the fifth verse of the third chapter of St John’s Gospel. The cieling of this place is painted, like the transepts, with arms. The choir is in another style, of the reign of Henry III. The arches above and below pointed, and separated by a row of demiquatrefoil arches in round ones in relief. The windows, of three days” plain and very modern. Wheathamsted cieled it with wood, in pannels of groined arches, sprinkling it with his cognizance, the holy lamb and eagle. Within the arch of the tower, next the choir, is this inscription: Sic ubicunque vides sit pictus ut agnus & ales, Effigies operis sexti patris ista Johannis. Esse vel in toto juvisse vel in fociendo, Est opus hoc unum causavit eum faciendu. Dugdale adds sixteen more lines, commemorating the officers of the convent who contributed to this work, but there is no room for them here. Above is the full coat-of arms of the abbey, Azure a saltire Or, supported by the holy lamb and eagle standing, and crowned with a scarlet cap, adorned with gold flowers, and turned up with Ermine, and over it, by way of motto, ® mmnt mimm ■ this shield stands between two others, viz. Gules, three crowns Or, and Ouarterly Gules and Or foul- lions rampant counterchanged. Dugdale calls this the presbytery. The calling Wheathamsted the sixth John fixes the date of this building to the first twenty years of his administration; for, upon his resignation a seventh John held it ten years, till the other was reinstated. Archdeacon Carter procured a handsome contribution for the repair of the choir from the nobility and gentry, whose arms are painted over it. The altar-piece, of the richest improved Gothic work, was built, according to some by abbot Wallingford, though Wheathamsted’s arms, the ears of wheat, are over both its doors behind, and over the North door in front, the South door having in front the arms of France and England It consists of beautiful tabernacle work, and in the midst of it thirteen small niches and brackets placed horizontally, probably designed to receive images of Our Saviour and his Apostles A picture of the Last Supper, by Sir James Thornhill, given by Captain Polehampton, which formerly hung against the altar-piece, has been for several years removed into the Saint’s chapel. The arms of the Abbey are scattered about this altar-piece, and the pedestals of the niches have the lamb between birds, which is another circumstance in favour of its being the work of Wheathamsted. The altar itself is an oak board, laid on four tressels, or boxes, with feet inscribed with the names of the four Evangelists. A large slab of black veined marble, with four crosses at the corners, and one in the centre, now laid over a tomb in the south aile by the door, may have been the original altar-stone. On the south side is Wheathamsted’s, on the North Ramryge’s sepulchral chapel. Behind the altar was the shrine of Saint Alban, two arches of the choir being included on each side of it: and three lofty pointed arches, formerly open, presented a view into the Lady Chapel. These eastern arches have clustered pillars with ring capitals, a cluster of five little niches at the bases of the centre arch. The north-east arch of the side filled with a richly-carved wooden closet, where the monks sat to watch the shrine, ascended to by a small rude staircase, formed of single blocks The lower part is a locker, for curiosities found in and about the abbey. Above is kept a painting of duke Humphrey’s body, as first found, a copy of his funeral charges, a letter to Cromwell about this abbey, signed “ W. Petre,” from the Cotton Library, Claud. A. f. 195, and ® e0 P a ‘™®-^ T ' ^ a broken oval earthen vase, with a point to fix it in the ground, from Verulam, eng new edition of Camden’s Britannia, 1789, vol. I. Plate XVII. Fig. 6, p. 347 One of the Humphrey’s tomb, vulgarly called King John, which used to stand on a bracket in ’ has been some time since removed to the back of the dukes shrine, and set among 1 brethren, to supply the place of one which had been stolen. The shrine stood on six pi ms. Of which are still to be seen in a stone border round a blue stone, inscribed in modern characters. S. Albanus Verolamensis Anglorum Protomartyr xvii Junii CCXCVII. At the back of the high altar is the spiritual court; on each side a door, opening into the ailes of the choir, and over them Wheathamsted’s arms. Within the arch of the duke of Gloucester s monu¬ ment was formerly kept the registry of wills for the archdeaconry of Saint Alban, but it has been for a long time against the east wall of the Saint’s chapel, or spiritual court. The iron grating which shuts out the south aile appears to be coeval with the building, and prior to the erection of the monument, and probably intended to give a view of the shrine, on entering the south door. East of the shrine, and below it, the choir ailes were continued to the Lady Chapel, and sided with demi-quatrefoil arches, which are also on the east wall, the pillars gone. Part of this place is now a passage, and the arches opening into the choir walled up. The remainder serves for the workmen when they repair the church, and may have been once divided into chapels. The roof was boarded, and painted like that of the choir, with the lamb and eagle. In the north end of the presbytery is a staircase, with a curious stone rope, ascending to the leads through the north tower of the choir. The two ailes to the choir are low roofed, and have various windows; those nearest the east end are more finished, and of a different form from the rest. Over the east arch leading into the north transept is the picture of king Ofta, and the inscription under it, before mentioned. In a window of this aile are the arms of the Abbey; and below this window, fronting Ramryge’s tomb, six demi- quatrefoil arches, with quatrefoils between them, brought from some other place. The north door of the church leads into this aile; and for capitals, has foliage spread in an artless manner on the tops of the pillars. The Lady Chapel, as well as the intermediate space, was built by Hugo de Eversden, in the reign of Edward II. but received great embellishment from Wheathamsted, who laid out £.40 in painting and adorning it. The windows are all pointed; two on the south, three on the north side, and a grand one at the east end. A border of beautiful buds and stalks surrounds both the window-frame and the outer edge of the arches; and between the two borders, and on the middlemost jamb of the four days, are small saints in tabernacles, cut in the face of the stone, and nine in each window. The same border ranges round the top of the chapel without, under a battlement of quatrefoils. On the south side of the altar are three stalls, and over them eight pointed arches, three wide and five nar¬ rower, their finials purfled in the richest manner, and somewhat like those on the niches of the screen to the ante-choir. Above them is part of a beautiful Catharine-wheel. The roof of this chapel is stone groined, the arches rising from heads in the wall, except the western one, which rests on round 7 pillars, with ring capitals. This chapel is of the same length as the choir without its ailes; and when the view into it was open, from behind the shrine, formed a regular termination of the whole building. Adjoining to the south-east corner is a library, which, by a holy-water bason or a piscina in its east wall, seems to have been a chapel. Round the bottom of the roof range angels, holding shields of arms. 1 he Lady Chapel, and its ante-chapel, extending west to the Saint’s chapel, have been most shame¬ fully and studiously defaced, most inconsistently and ridiculously repaired, very greatly to the discredit of the Trustees. Yet it cannot be said to be entirely neglected, or fallen into disuse; for having been converted into a free-school, though for many years there have been hardly any scholars upon the foundation, yet the master keeps a private school of his own in the chapel, and therefore takes care to preserve it wind and water tight. The square tower in the centre of the church is a complete specimen of the Saxon style of archi¬ tecture, with towers at the angles, whose upper stories are round, as the view (by King) in Dugdale’s Monasticon represents them; whereas, in Buck’s view, they are altogether square. It has two rows of windows, four in the lower, two in the upper, each divided into two days, by short round pillars; the space between the three arches is lighted by a number of triangular holes. Under the lowest row are two circular windows. The tower is embattled; and with the two transepts, and most eastern part of the nave, may be all that remains of the original building, raised by Paul of Caen, fourteenth abbot, in the Conqueror’s time, out of materials collected from Verulam by his predecessors. The great arches of the tower are round, of three sweeps, having over them, on each side, three such arches in relief as are in the transepts, with two days separated by triple pillars. William de Trumpington, twenty-second abbot, in the reigns of John and Henry III. rebuilt the chapel of Saint Cuthbert, which had been built by Richard de Albini, 15th abbot, to the honour of Saint Cuthbert, wherein, Weever says *, he was buried. Symond, nineteenth abbot, got the bishop of Durham to dedicate it to Saint John the Baptist: and William de Trumpington caused this to be inscribed over the high altar : Confessor Cuthberte, dei baptista Johannes, Agnes virgo, tribus vobis htec ara sacratur. This may have been a chapel at the east end of the choir ailes, perhaps on the south side, where we see the arches before mentioned in the walls; and this may account for the different form of the windows. Altars dedicated to three saints were not uncommon. Several such sided the shrine of Saint Cuthbert at Durham. Chauncy saysf, this chapel was near or in the cloister: for William built a room over it capable of containing twelve beds, in addition to those in the dormitory J. J he cloisters, 129 feet long and 21 broad, and, with the chapter-house, embellished with paintings and poetry, ranged along the south side of the nave, against which remain eight arches, besides the door. They consist of three demi-quatrefoil arches, with trefoil tracery, the pillars of the outer arch triple, and all flowered capitals: the main pillars, whence the groins of the roof spring between the arches, are three round ones on a square. Some more arches, robbed of their tracery, remain against the south transept. At the east end of the south wall are some traces of an altar, perhaps that of Saint Catharine, where Henry III. offered, after having had the martyr carried in procession through Saint Catharine’s cloister. The north and south sides of the nave are adorned above with a number of pointed arches, with narrower ones between. These reach, I believe, from the most modern part of the nave westward; Page 559. + Page 438. J Newcome’s History of St. Alban’s, page 118. 8 i i o oil nf the same size: and the three shorter for the ten more eastern ones that adorn it are sing e arc e , Saxon small windows, before mentioned, in the south afle have over c]oister has a beauti& l windows as are in the south transepts. The dooi from e . , . ■, SDanc l r i] s roof, the thickness of the wall: the arch within has rich quatrefoils, an in qu the arms of Ancient France and England quarterly, and of the Abbey. On each side a nch n.ch^ and pedestal: above, a bold border of leaves and stalks, and over all trefoil oak-leaves. the window above has two sweeps of nail-head quatrefoils. Gothlc> and be l„ w it are two pointed The great west window appears to have tracery of , . , arches, which have an uncommon swell within them. The west portal is embattled: the inner door consists of two compartments, above which are three more. The mam arch has two sweeps, with single pillars, which, with those of the side arches, make a fine cluster in front; towic we must add a square and round pillar on each side the door, and a triple round one in the middle ; all of red and yellow marble, with Saxon leaved capitals: the arches at the sides are shorter demi-quatre oils, under three pointed arches, and their pillars like the others in form and materials. Over the spaudrils without are the arms of the Abbey, and the three crowns, of Mercia. The area be¬ fore this portal has but lately been converted to a burying-ground; a lair having been originally kept there. On the corners of the transepts are two embattled towers, one square, the other hexagon. The east window of the church is a narrow one, of four demi-quatrefoil days, and a Catharine- wheel, and has two lancet niches at the sides. The north and south walls without are decorated with three divisions of arches, answering to the arches of the nave, of different seras: the eastern ones are three Saxon: below these are ten of the lancet kind, and westward ten similar, separated by nine narrower, but without pillars: none of these have had windows, as Buck represents them. 9 MONUMENTS AND EPITAPHS. IN the choir, just before the steps of the altar, and near Wheathamsted’s sepulchral chapel, lies a beautiful and rich brass, with the figure of an abbot, pontifically habited, with his mitre and crosier, his hands hanging down, under his feet two dragons. The canopy over him is adorned with the figure of the Deity, with angels, and the sides of it with fourteen saints, including the twelve apostles, in pairs. Over his head, in bold Lombardic capitals, * HIC JACET DOMINUS THOM and reaching half way down on the north side, AS QUONDAM ABBAS HUJUS MONASTERII. On each side, three spread eagles on a bend; and the symbols of the Evangelists at the corners. From these arms appearing on the sepulchral chapel of abbot Ramryge *, it may be presumed this brass once covered his vault within it. A slab, with the figure of an Abbot cut in lines, with the same coat of arms, impaled by the Abbey arms, and supported twice by two birds, and twice by two rams, without any inscription to determine to whom it belonged, has probably some reference to the same abbot. There were only two abbots here (besides Wolsey) of the name of Thomas, De la Mare and Ramryge ; and Weever and Willis give the former an epitaph, not now existing. This fine brass is engraved by Mr. Carter, page 29 of his first volume of “ Specimens of Antient Sculpture and Painting.” On the opposite side of the choir is the lower half of a brass figure of an abbot, and the canopy over him: in the centre of whose point are the abbey arms, and on one side a heart rayed. All that remains on the ledge is, in small letters, . meus vivit fy in novismno die .... mis sum in carne . Below : Hie quidam terra tegitur, peceati solvens debitum : Cui nomen non imponitur, in libro vite sit co'scriptu’. * My worthy and much-respected friend Mr. Gough and myself were at issue upon the question, whether this were Delamare’s or Ramryge’s brass— he originally thought the latter, but I believe what I said induced him at last to agree with me that it was the former. One it must have been; for Wolsey, I presume, was out of the question. Tire coats of arms here are attributed in Edmondson to a family of Delamare — 1 conjecture that Ramryge afterward assumed them, and set the bend between a lion and a ram. There are no traces here of any ram, of which Ramryge was very fond, for, I believe, there is hardly a coat of arms about his shrine without a ram somehow introduced. I told Mr. Gough, if it had been for Ramryge, he would have been styled Thomas II. as Wheathamsted is called Johannes Sextus. There is now no stone nor brass in Ramryge’s shrine, which there once probably was, and that probably was “ the slab with the figure cut in lines” mentioned here, and now lying close to the south door : that certainly refers to Ramryge, because of the rams : there is not room for both the stones in Ramryge’s shrine. J. Brown. 10 Another very large slab has the upper half of a large brass figure of an abbot *, mitred, and hold¬ ing a crosier. Some tabernacle work, and two little images, one holding a wand, the other > » »hn the Baptist, with his flag, cross, and purse. Two shields bearing the saltire of the Abbey, ,n brass, are left, and round the ledge was this inscription: Vir crucis & X’ti Carcere de tristi Anna crucis sumpsit Mundura contempsit Hie studuit claustro, In studii stadio Tumulo jacet insitus isti, Salvetur sanguine Christi. Intraudo religionem : Propter celi regionem. Pondus sufferre Iaboris, Bravium percepit honoris. Flatus fortune grandes paciens tolerabat, Gaudia, tristicias, equali lance librabat. Nil adversa timens, nec multum prospera curans, Se medio tenuit per ferrea tempora durans. Omni gestura constans nil triste timebat, Omni pressura laudes Xto referebat. Armis justicie cinctus, deitatis amore, Hostibus ecclesie restitit in facie. Ad tumulum proceres mors impia transferet omnes, Ut puerilis amor defluit omnis honor. From his mouth: Celica regna, bone, m'. dent', queso, patrone. [Penas compesce, Requiem da, Virgula Jesse.- f] Me precor, Amphibale, solvens ad sidera sume. At the head of this, an older stone, for an abbot, had this inscription in Gothic capitals round the ledge, the brass of the figure and letters gone : *.RI'CARD . . I : ICI : DEN : DE : SA : ALME : EI-MERCI TUS : KE : PAR : ICI : PASSIS : PATER : ET : AVE : PUR : LALME : PRIES : E : TOUS : K : PUR : LALME : . . . . UNT : TOUS .... AUNTE : IT : . . . RI R . . . . UNNUS. On another, with a brass figure of a monk holding a heart between his hands: Hie jacet frater Robertus Beauner, quondam liuius monasterii monachus: qui quadraginta sex annis continuis et ultra minis- trabat in div’sis ofliciis majoribu, et minoribus convent’ monasterii p’seripti, videlicet, in ofliciis Vergi prioris, eoquarii, refectoraru, et infirmaiii; et in ofliciis subrefectorarii et sperii' convent, pro cuius anima, fratres charissimi, fnndere pieces dignemini ad judicem altissimum piissimum dom. Jesu Christum, ut concedat sibi suor. veniam peccator’. Amen. On a label from his mouth : Cor mundum in me crea, Deus. From half a brass monk this label: Misericordia tua, domine, adjuvabat me. Another monk * praying to a cross, which stood between the Virgin and Saint John, has this label trom his mouth: Salva, Redemptor, plasma tuum nobile Signatum s’co vult’ tui lumine, Nec lacerari sinas fraude deemonum, Propter quos mortis exsolvisti ptena. • Abbot John Stoke. Vide Sepulchral Monuments, vol. II. p. 168, PI. LXI. f This Line is lost —the other two remain. t Vide Sep. Mon. I. 205, §■ se r/ . 11 A stone near the pulpit has, under a monk : Ecce sacerdos eraui, jam factus vile cadaver, Et cito pulvis erit: queso memento mei. Siste gradum qui me teris hie, & funde, precat'. Me deus ut levet hinc, ducat ad usque polum. Ricardus Stondon obiit .... die .... an. MV°. On his breast was : Jesu Christ, Mary’s son, Have mercy on the sowl of Richard Stondon. This, from the want of dates, was probably laid in the party’s life-time. On a stone in the choir, the lower half of a gentleman, and the whole figure of a lady, in brass, the inscription now reversed, and half gone: Here lieth bartholomew halsey and florens his wyfe. .... charitye sey for those tweyn sowlis a pater noster and. By the pulpit: Orate pro aia Henrici Grymbalde, Capellani, qui obiit primo die mensis Octobr. Anno Dni MVXXII. Cujus aie propitietur deus. Amen. A knight * in armour and cropt hair; his helmet, with an earl’s coronet, under his head. Arms: Barry of 6 A. and Az. in chief three torteaux, quartering Hastings and Valence, earls of Pembroke; and under him this half of an inscription : .knyght, son and heir to Edmund erle of Kent .d the fourth hole suster to our sov’raine lady the .yere of our lord A. 1480, and of the kyng .ke : on whose soule God have mercy. Amen. This is for Sir Anthony de Gre} r . The tomb of abbot Wheathamsted is engraved in the second volume of the “ Sepulchral Monu¬ ments of Great Britain.” Under a surbast arch lies a slab, robbed of the brass figure of an abbot in pontijicalibus, and the inscription round the ledge. On the fascia, above, on each side, is twice re¬ peated, in bold relief, valles habundabunt, a device used by this abbot in allusion to his name; and in the spandrils, in quatrefoils, are his arms, three triple wheat-ears, with and without a chevron; and over the point of the arch four lions rampant; together with the three crowns of Mercia. Ramryge’s chapel, opposite, is adorned with the royal arms, the arms of the abbey, Mercia, Durham, Delamare, Ramryge, &c. &c. t on the fascia and on the base, the latter supported by rams holding cro¬ siers, and having on their collars ryge, thus making the rebus of Ram ryge, which is repeated in rams’ heads, and the four letters of ryge on small shields ; and this inscription in capitals cut on the fascia: Sancti Spiritus assit nobis gracia. Veni, Sancte Spiritus, reple tu- ornm corila fidelium, et tui amoris in eis ignem accende. Amen. + * Vide Sep. Mon. Part 2. Plate C. p. 26.9. f An eagle displayed — the saltire of the Abbey—the three crowns of Mercia —Ramryge — four lions rampant — the Abbey, impaling Ramryge—three eagles displayed — France and England quarterly, supported by a gryphon and a greyhound —a gryphon passant, within an orle of martlets — a lion rampant between eight roses — Delamare — the bishoprick of Durham — three annulets —a bend between six martlets.-Some of these are many times repeated; and there appear to be twenty-nine shields without, and six within. J. B. } This is a most beautiful and curious inscription, scarce ever seen by any body, in consequence of its height and the projection of the cornice; very perfect; but some of the letters are so extremely antiquated, or so aukwardly separated from each other, that it is difficult to understand them when seen. It begins at the east end on the north side, and ends in the middle of a word at the west end; begins ngain at the west end of the south side, and ends at the east end. J. B. 12 In the south aile of the choir, close to the duke of Gloucester tomb, * of an abbot pontifically habited and mitred, and at t le our roil bir( j Sj and rotm d it, eaglets displayed on a bend, two of the coats supported by rants, an J T^rtodlr-fn sit snnrtn trinitas ataue indivisa unitas: [confifcbimm ei] quia fecit, nobiscu miscricordiam sua. In the north aile, near the transept, this : Pray for Mawde Herrys, which lyeth in this grave, Desyre God hartelie her sowle for to save; Whiche deceased the xv day of ffebruarie ; On whose sowle ahnyghtie god have mcye. Anno doniini millesimo ccccc tricesimo septimo. Over the door leading into the choir out of the south aile . In memoriam venerabilis viri Johannis * Thomae Hylocomii, Boscoducensis Apud Belgas, huius oppidi olim civis munifici, scholarchae celebemmi. On the floor of the south aile, opposite the saint’s chapel, a slab, with the figures of a ” 1vr ® Mr. Henry Gregory, Alderman, 16 Novem. 1762, aged 6 /. Mr. Richard Brabant, Alderman, 13 Janua. 1812, ait. 76 . Mr William Carr, Alderman, and twice Mayor, 10 March I?32, «. 59 , the second time of his Mayoral,v . he left , daughters, Ellen and Mehetabel. - V - V ' he two Eleanor wife of Mr. Charles Domville, 6 May 1575, aged 5.9. Also Mr. Charles Domville, 27 July 1775 , ffed S3 Major John Richardson, 12 May I 7 73, aged 62. Mm. Mehetabel R.eh.rdson, 14 Novem 1805 „ e d 8 8 ’ ’ Anne Wdlcocks t, 22 May 1788, aged 85. Margaret Lomax t , 12 Febma. 1800, aged 6.9. ' ' Thomas Kinder, Esq. late of this Borough, 8 Septem. 1803. Quin terram leviter premis, sacra est, amice ; Sub hoc marmore componitur Exemplar sevi fugacis non praetereundum, Martha Browne, Matthaei Crutchfeild civis & salar. Lond. Janarq; Obsequentissima filia, Uxor autem charissima Johannis Browne Med. Doctoris, de Lond. Hoc in Oppido nati, & hac in aide renati. At qualis foemina, Divmis animi corporisq; ditata bonis. * He is elsewhere styled William Paine King: his widow was Lord Sandys, whose widow she died 1 Nov. 1806. J. B. Si, and Si, Gang, CUb™*,, , nd afterward married to Edwin 15 Suavissimis moribus, ingenio peracuto, Piam, probam, jucundam cogites, ipsissima est mea. Uni placere studuit, & Deo placuit & omnibus. Qua Marthae primogenite superstes Hie juxta consepultae. Anno post nuptias altero ferh exacto Anno Salutis mdclxviii. aetat. xxxx ineunte Tergeminis pariundis cum incubuisset fortiter, Nono post die Feb. vm. (pro dolor) occubuit: Ex quibus binos (faxit Deus) vitales cara pignora Desiderio sui leniendo post se reliquit. Abi, lector, vite sic institute si pennas prscideris, Virtus tua celari nec possit, vel lapides loquentur. Cara fugis, nec te lachryma? flexere parentis, ^ ec dulces nati, nec pia cura viri. Quippe vocat Christus, proles tibi bina pneivit, Nos sumus haud longtb turba futura comes. Haec justa defuncte persolvit Maritus mcerens J. B. On the pavement of the nave : Edvardus Rennolds Armig. 30 Junii 1769, at. 83. Johannes Smith Armig. 22 Martii I 775 , ffi t. 71. Mr. Francis Halford, Alderman, 14 Decern. 1715, ffi t. 64. John Cowper, Esq. Aldennan, 31 May 1805, ®t. 73. Susannah, wife of John M'Taggart, Esq. of London, 24 Janua. 1801. John Turner, Alderman, 14 August 1716, aged 36. Johannes Hunt, Bibliopola, 6 Mart. 1722. Ralph Bayly, Alderman, 8 May 1792, aged 68. Mr. Joseph Marshall, Alderman, 27 May I 7 I 8 , set. 57. John Tisdall, Alderman, 13 Novem. 1707. Robert Beaumont, Alderman, 21 Decern. 1733 , aged 3.9. Mr. Thomas Ramridge, Alderman, 17 { 2 . ®t. 55. Robert Atcherley, late Lieutenant and Paymaster of the Rutland Fencibles, 22 Februa. John Walthoe, Esq. Alderman, 15 August 1778, aged 83. Thomas Kitchin, senr. Esq. 23 June 1784, aged 66. 17 95, aged 26. Over the small arch on the south side of the west door is a small tablet of different coloured mar- bles, with a large urn over the top of it: In an adjacent Vault are deposed the Remains of Francis Carter Niccoll, Es q . who dyed 1 June 1?8 2, aged 58 years. W Ntccoll he Rebut who dyed 19 March W aged 67 yean,. Elisabeth NiccoU their Daughter, who dyed 9 March 17.97. aged 43 years. L,lcew.se of Samuel Nieoll of Court Lodge in Susses, E. q , who tnarried Sarah, the other Daughter of the above Francs Carter and Anne Niccoll, and dyed 2? April 1?87, aged 43 yean. And also of S.mh, the Relic of the above Samuel Nieoll who in 1?90 tnarried the Rev. Richard Rideont, and dyed a, Court Lodge 24 March 1809, aged 50 Years. The only Chdd „1 the satd Sarah by her fin. Husband dedicates this Monntnen, as a Tribute of sincere AffccL and Respect to the Memory of a beloved Mother. On the pavement of the south aile, opposite the door leading into the chancel: H. S. E. pars inortalis Mnngonis Hardman Arm. inter Duces dassleos mnlta cum laude eommemorandl, forti animo mornm snav.tatem felicissime connm.euit, et mifitavlt non sine gloria sub anspieii, Ann* ,, Georgii, mnltam corporis atgri momam unpavide sustinmt, pati sciens, meliora sperans. Decessit vm die Marti! A. D. mdccxxvi. mt. XLVI. 16 * On a tablet of clouded marble at the south end of St. Cuthbert’s skreen: Near this spot are deposited the Remains of William Coleman, Esq. of Enfield, M' aged 69 years : he was for many years one of His Majesty’s Justices of the Peace for the above office he faithfully discharged. who dyed August 2, 1805, County, the duty of which Oil the pavement of the north aile, where the transept opens: Mr. William Firth, late Alderman, 14 Februa. 1760, aged 43. Francis Carter, Alderman, 8 April 1?43. William Niccoll, Alderman, 20 April 1746. Mr. Robert Baskerfeild, 58 years Alderman, 21 June 1804, aged 83. On the pavement of the north aile : Sept. 19, 1798, John Kent, set. 80, upwards of half a Century Clerk of this Abbey. On a marble tablet against the wall of the north aile : Near this place lyeth, with her Mother and many of her nearest Relatives, the Body of Zipporah Sierra, Spinster, who dyed 15 Janua. 1805, aged 85 years. She delivered the Poor that cried, and the Fatherless, and him that had none to help him. The blessing of him that was ready to perish came upon her, and she caused the Widows Heart to sing for joy. On a tablet of white marble, against the west wall of the south transept: H. S. E. Ptolemams James A. M. Filius Caroli James S. T. P. natu maximus, quorum ambo olim erant iEdis Christi Oxonite alumni: hie hujusce Sancti Albani scholar Archididascalus literatissimus, cui haec villa multum debuit: ille in ecclesia Dili Pauli JLondinensi Praebendarius de Islingdon, et Sanctas Helenas ecclesia; Londini praedicator assiduus, doctus, pius ; natus Octob. xix. mdclxxi. denatus Apr. xxvi. mdccxxix. obiit anno aetatis suae lviii. Nemine ex hac domo superstite, quidam Sanctae Ilelenee, impensis suis, pastoris dignissimi adhuc memores, tabellam hanc renovari curaverunt. On the pavement of the south transept: Mr. Stephen Adams, late Alderman, 26 June 1700, aged 72. Mr. Matthew Hubbard, Alderman, 11 July 1713, ast. 53. On a tablet against the west wall of the north transept: Joseph Handley, M. D. thrice Mayor of this Borough, and Justice of Peace for the County, 11 Feb. 1782, aged 73- At the north end of the north transept is a white marble sarcophagus, with a figure of History sit¬ ting on it, reclining on her left arm, holding in her hand a pen *, with which she writes in a book, while two other books lie under her feet. Below is this epitaph : To the Memory of Christopher Rawlinson, of Cark-hall in Cartmel, in the County of Lancaster, Esq. whose Remains are deposited in a Vault near this Place. He was Son of Cunven Rawlinson, Member of Parliament for the Town of Lancaster, and Elizabeth Monk, Daughter and Co-heir of the loyal Nicholas Monk, Lord Bishop of Hereford, Brother to General Monk Duke of Albemarle. The said Christopher was of Queen’s College, in Oxford, and published the Saxon Version of “ Boethius de Consolatione “ Philosophise” in the Saxon Language. He was bom in the Parish of Springfield in Essex, June 13, 1677> and died in Jan. 1733. This Monument was erected pursuant to the Will of his Cousin and Co-heiress Mrs. Mary Blake, youngest Daughter of Roger More of Kirkby Lonsdale, in the County of Westmoreland, Seijeant at Law, and Catharine Rawlinson, Sister of the said Curwen Rawlinson. * Long since broke off by mischievous person. J. B. 17 Under the great south window is a handsome tablet of light grey marble, on which is the following inscription : In the Vault at the foot of this Stone lye the Remains of Henry Pye Rich, of Manchester Street, in the County of Mid¬ dlesex, Esq. late one of His Majesty’s Commissioners under the Sixth Article of the Treaty of Peace between Great Britain and the United States of America : he dyed beloved, respected, and sincerely regretted by all who knew him, on the 18th day of July 1809, aged 73 years. Above the tablet is a pedestal, from which rises a column, near the top of which is a wreath, and upon the top a large urn, all of white marble. Behind the column is a pyramidical back ground of very dark grey marble. On new-paving the nave, the brassless slabs were taken up, and laid in a row on each side. Under the great west window, the following inscription commemorates the holding of a Parlia¬ ment in this Church in the reign of Henry VIII. and again in that of Elizabeth, during a plague: Propter vicinii situm, & amplum hujus tempi! spatmm ad magnam confluentium multitudinem excipiendam opportunum, temporibus Hen. VIII. R. & denuo R. Elizabeth®, peste Londini sasviente, conventus juridicus hie agebatur. Princeps Dei imago, Lex Principis opus. Finis Legis Justitia. In the school are these inscriptions: John Thomas, 1588. Thomas Hayward, 1596. .... Norton, 1601. Thomas Gibson, 1603. .... Steed, 1620. James Shirley *, 1623. John Westerman, 1625. John Harmar, 1626. Thomas Creswell, 1637- Alban Plumtree, 1644. John Ditchfield, 1652. Francis Handslope, 1659. Repaired and beautified 1 Geo. 1715. W m . Neale, Tho'. Ramridge, ) } Governors. St. Alban’s School repaired and beautified 1755. Mr. Alderman Stirling, Mr. Mr. Alderman Baskerfeild, Governors. Head Masters: Edward Carter, A. M. 1662. Charles James, D. D. 1669- John Fothergill, A. M. 1695. Discharged 1725. Re¬ elected 1728. John Cole, A. M. Archdeacon of St. Alban's, 1740. Died 29 August 1754. Benjamin Preedy, 7 Sept. 1754. Resigned 5 July 1775. James Preedy, M. A. 16 Aug. 1775- Resigned 6 Marchl776. Joseph Spooner 3 April 1776. Died . . . Oct. 1796. John Payler Nicholson, A. M. 24 Novem. 1796. Re¬ signed 10 March 1803. William Mogg Bowen, A. M. 30 March 1803. “ St. Alban’s School, The Royal Founder Oueen Elizabeth. Benefactors: King James the First. Sir Ralph Rowlat. Thomas Hall, M. D. Richard Ramshaw, Esq. Seijeant at Arms. Richard Plat, Citizen of London. Of whom see the Biographical Dictionary, vol. XIII. p. 381. 18 * Sir Samuel Grimston, Bart. ’ Benjamin Mott, Citizen of London. * Joseph Marsh, Esq. * Dr. Evans. * Stephen Adams, Alderman of this Borough. * John Cole, Rector of the Abbey. * Charles Hale, Gent. Those marked * were Benefactors to the Library. Over the School-door is painted this inscription: Schola S 1 ' Albani. Qua? Divas Marias jampridem nomine dicta est, Literulis celebrem fecit Elisa domum. Quid vetat ingenuas pietati jungier artes ? Hinc, illinc, verae est religionis honos. Saint Alban s Abbey was governed by a succession of forty Abbots : 1. Willegod, died 794. 2. Eadric. t*. V UlSIg. 4. Wulnoth. 5. Eadfrid, 94.'}. 6. Ulsin. 7. Alfric I. 8. Eldred, about 969. 9. Eadmer, rebuilt great part of the Church and Monastery out of the mins of Verulam. 10. Leofric, died 1006. 11. Alfric II. 12. Leofstan, died temp. Edv. Confessor. 13. Frederic, incurred the displeasure of the Conqueror. 14. Paul of Caen, elected 1077, built the present Church; died 1093. 15 Richard de Albini, elected 1097, who dedicated the Church 11 IS ; died 1119 j buried in the Chapel of St. Cuthbert, which he built, adjoining to the Church. 16. Geoffrey de Gorham, built a hall for the reception of strnngere, and died 1146; buried in the Church. 17- Ralph de Gobion, built the abbot’s chamber; died 1151. 18. Robert de Gorham, nephew to Geoffrey; died 1166; buried at the feet of Abbot Paul. 19. Simon, died 1183. 20. Warren de Cambridge, died 1195. 21. John de Celia, or of Studham, prior of Wallingford; died 1214. dJi^ m “ n de Tru, upington, rebuilt St. John’s Chapel, and dedicated it to St. Cuthbert, St John Baptist, mad St Agnes; 23. John de Hertford, died 1260. 24. Roger de Norton, died 1290. 25. John de Berkhamsted, died 1301. 26. John Maryns, died 1308. 27. Hugh de Eversden, died 1326. 28. Richard de Wallingford, died 1335. 29. Michael de Mentmore, died 1342. 30. Thomas de la Mare, prior of Tinmouth, died 1396. [These four last were buried before the steps of the altar.] 31. John de la Moote, built the abbot’s house a, Titenhanger, and died 1400; buried in the Chapter-house. 19 32. William Heyworth, made bishop of Lichfield 1420; died 1447 ; buried here. 33. John de Wheathamsted, resigned 1440. , . 34. John Stoke, prior of Wallingford, died 1451, or, as Newcourt, 1462. John de Wheathamsted, re-elected, died 1460. 35. William Alban, died 1476. 36. William Wallingford, made the high altar, and a chapel, and tomb for himself near it, not now to be found; died 1484. 37. Thomas Ramryge, died 1524. 38. Thomas Wolsey, cardinal, elected 1526, held this abbey in commendam with the archbishopric of York; died 1530, 39. Robert Catton, prior of Norwich, died 1538. 40. Richard Boreman de Stevenache, surrendered this abbey 1539, and had a yearly pension of 400 marks for life. He died of grief, within a fortnight after hearing of the death of Queen Mary, who intended to restore this house. He had purchased the Church, to save it from destruction. Pope Adrian IV. surnamed Breakspear, born at Abbots-Langley in this neighbourhood, con¬ stituted the Abbot of St. Alban’s first Abbot in England in order and dignity, as St. Alban was the English Proto-martyr, 1154. Pope Honorius, 1218, confirmed to the Abbot and his succes¬ sors episcopal rights, and exempted them from the jurisdiction of the Bishop of Lincoln, their diocesan *. Of the state in which the Abbots of this opulent monastery lived, we may judge from the follow¬ ing account by Mr. Robert Shrimpton, who was three times mayor of the town, and died in the be¬ ginning of the seventeenth century. He lived when the Abbey flourished, before the Dissolution, and remembered most things relating to the buildings of the Abbey, the regimen of the house, the cere¬ monies of the Church, and grand processions; of all which he would often discourse. Among other things, that in the great hall there was an ascent of fifteen steps to the Abbot’s table, to which the monks brought up the service on plate, and staying at every fifth step as a landing-place, sung a short hymn. The Abbot usually sat alone, in the middle of the table; and when any nobleman, or ambassador, or stranger of eminent quality, came thither, they sat at his table towards the ends thereof. After the monks had waited a while on the Abbot, they sat down at two other tables placed on the sides of the hall, and had their services brought in by the novices, who, when the Monks had dined, sat down to their own table. Of the various buildings and offices contiguous to the Abbey, nothing now remains but a substantial gate-way, of hewn stone, leading into the Court from the north, now converted into a prison; to which corresponded another, next the river, taken down in 1722. The Church was made by Edward VI. a rectory, valued at £.10 per annum , at which rate the Rector was to pay tenths and first-fruits, and a Parish Church for the Borough, and the inhabitants of the chapelry or parish of St. Andrew, whose Church stood on what is now an orchard on the north side of the Abbey Church ; and the whole of the parish was to be accounted in this. The patronage is in the Mayor and Aldermen. King James the Second granted to trustees the advowson of the parish churches of St. Mary Northchurch and Much Mundane, to present the Rector of St. Alban’s to whichever of the two should first become vacant; and, the Rector of St. Alban’s being once instituted to it, the grant was This appears to have been done by Adrian IV. Vide Newcome, p. 65. J. B. 20 to be void as to the other. On the death of Mr. Carter, Much Mundane rectory was conferred on Mr. Cole, archdeacon of St. Alban’s ; but on Mr. Cole’s death the Rector of St. Alban s had it not; the Crown presented, the trust being reputed expired. The Church was repaired by brief in 1623, as may be inferred from an inscription in verse under the eighth window of the south aile, now almost effaced, but preserved by Sir Henry Chauncy ; again in 1683; and by another since. The south transept has drawn out its beams, and come forward. The south window, which resembled its opposite, was blown in during the great storm in 1703. This transept was repaired, 1783, with part of i?.100 saved or collected for the use of the Church. PLANS, ELEVATIONS, SECTIONS, AND SPECIMENS, OF THE ARCHITECTURE AND ORNAMENTS OF THE ABBEY CHURCH OF ST. ALBAN. BY J. CARTER, ARCHITECT. PLATE I. Ornamental Title Page. View (looking east) in the porch on the left of the cen¬ tre ditto of the west front, entering into the north aile of the Abbey Church of St. Alban. In place of the door itself, the Title of the Work is in¬ troduced. On the two brackets, above the point of the arch of the door-way, once stood two statues. The columns, with ornaments between them, are detached from the walls. PLATE II. Plan of the Abbey Church of St. Alban, and the site of the Monastical buildings that were once attached to it. A. Ruined wall running to the abbey gate-house; which gate-house is a large and magnificent edifice; it is now con¬ verted into a common prison. A. (repeated) Ruined wall. B. Ruined gate-way, entering into the site of the abbey buildings. C. Ruined windows in wall to ditto. These vestiges, excepting the gate-house above mentioned, are all that remain of the monastic portion of the abbey. D. Site of the cloisters. E. Remains of the interior part of the north cloister attached to the south aile of the nave. F. Remains of the door-way, entering into ditto aile. G. Door¬ ways into north and south ailes of the choir. H. I. En¬ trances broke through the walls of this part of the church, (supposed in the sixteenth century,) making a common thoroughfare from the town into the fields, &c. J. Door¬ way into the vestry of Our Lady’s Chapel. K. Supposed entrance from a destroyed chapel on the external part of the edifice at this situation. L. West front. M. Centre porch. N. Remains of porches on each side of ditto, enter¬ ing into the north and south ailes of the nave; their western walls being destroyed, the voids are now filled in with common rubble masonry. O. Nave. P. Side ailes of ditto, and the choir. Q. Avenue, once communicating with the cloisters. R. Recess. S- Holy water basin, of rich sculpture, brought from some other part of the church. T. Niche. U. This pier is hollowed into a circle, as seen from the gallery above, and imagined to contain a circular stair-case; but the communication to it at present is un¬ known. V. From this point to the west end of the nave the architecture is of the Pointed order; which mode is con¬ tinued from the west end to W, the other architectural por¬ tions of the nave being of the Saxon order. X. North tran¬ sept, of Saxon architecture. Y. Recesses (once chapels), with remains of altars. Z. South transept, of Saxon architecture. A 2. Recesses (once chapels), altars entirely destroyed. B 2. Entrance into C 2, grand avenue, which avenue communi¬ cated with the cloisters and the eastern part of the monastic buildings, each end now walled up. D 2. St. Cuthberts altar (or screen entering into the choir). E 2. Choir. F 2. Great centre tower. G 2. Abbot Ramridge’s monu¬ mental chapel. H 2. High altar. I 2. Abbot Whetham- stede’s monumental chapel. J 2. Feretory, or chapel, where the shrine of St. Alban once stood. K 2. Presses, which contained the furniture of the.high altar; over the presses an oratory. L 2. Duke Humphrey’s monumental chapel. M 2. Five grand arches (now walled up), giving the entrance into the east double aile (singular instance) of the choir. N 2. Easternmost portion of ditto double aile, with its cen¬ trical introduction to Our Lady’s chapel. O 2. Low wall, or screen, supposed to have been run up when the first di¬ vision of the double aile was converted into a common thoroughfare. P 2. Our Lady’s chapel. Q 2. Site of the altar; on the right of which, in the south wall, are the re¬ mains of the three priests stalls, of most admirable work : this chapel is converted into a school-room. R 2. Vestry. S 2. Door-ways. T 2. Windows. U 2. Steps. V 2. Grave¬ stones : many of these memorials (some shewing enrich¬ ments done with lines, others containing brasses of figures and architecture) remain in good preservation, and in their original situations; while the rest have been removed to va rious parts of the church, and much mutilated. W 2. Mag¬ nificent brass of Abbot Ramridge, exhibiting his effigies, accompanied with architectural and ornamental embellish¬ ments, of the most elaborate engraving. X 2. Grave-stone of the late Mr. Kent, clerk; an honest man, and an admirer and preserver of our antiquities. Y 2. Site of the shrine of St. Alban. Z 2. Steps descending into the vault of Duke Humphrey, where his bones are yet to be seen. A 3. Dot¬ ted lines, shewing the forms of the painted pannels on flat cielings. B 3. Dotted lines, shewing the forms of the tim¬ bers, as coverings in these situations. C 3. Dotted lines, shewing the forms of the groins. Those walls shaded of the darkest tint are the oldest constructions, being Saxon. Those walls of lighter successive tints express later altera¬ tions and additions, in various styles of architecture, as they followed each other in construction and in dates. The longitudinal section runs the length of the church, from west to east, giving the north aspect of the nave, north transept, choir, double eastern aile, and Our Lady’s chapel. The transverse section runs from north to south, giving the east aspect of the north transept, centre tower, (within the grand supporting arch, the high altar is seen,) and south transept. PLATE III. Elevation of the west front of the Abbey Church of St. Alban. This front is evidently a made-up piece of architecture, previous to, or soon after, the Dissolution, when the ori¬ ginal work was nearly destroyed; parts of which remain (of a very distant date) in the centre porch and niches right and left of the arch to ditto. The buttresses and west window mark the style of the sixteenth century. The blank walls constituting the present fronts to the north and south ailes of the nave, have entirely obliterated the original door-ways into the side porches, and the windows (lighting the ailes) over them. The battlements recent brick-work. On the left of the front, part of a wall, and a door-way. On the right, part of a ruined wall (A. in plan). In the distance, the west aspects of the north and south transepts, and centre tower; each remaining in their original forms, excepting the battlements, which are recent brick-work. On the basement story of the south transept some of the interior arches of the east cloister remain. The west end of the avenue (C 2. in plan) also appears, headed with a modem shed-like covering. The small arches in second story of the centre tower light a gallery of communication to each side of the tower. PLATE IV. Elevation of the south front of the Abbey Church of St. Alban. In this front some of the Saxon architecture, with the va¬ rious succeeding styles of the Pointed order, are seen. At the western extremity on the first story, is the return of the recent made-up west front, shewing brick and rubble but¬ tresses, with a common shed-pointed window. The win¬ dows between the three first divisions of buttresses on first story, walled up; as is the case in the fifth division of ditto. The succeeding seven divisions have their windows, and be¬ low them eight of the internal arches of the north cloister, and the door-way (much dilapidated, and repaired with brick-work) entering into the nave. The transept then com¬ mences ; but, previous to its description, the second, or cen¬ tre aile story of the nave, is to be noticed. Nearly the whole line of windows, extending to the three last divisions, are in good condition; and, with the preceding work of the first story, appear to give the style of the fourteenth century . The three last divisions of windows, with the arches below them, (which arches originally gave the internal front of the gallery over the side aile, the external parts being destroyed; they are now filled with windows and tracery of the six¬ teenth century,) display Saxon work. The battlements, to each story, recent brick-work. The transept next occurs, and before its basement wall is the south side of the ave¬ nue (C 2. in plan). The tracery to the great window of this transept is copied from that of the north transept, (work of the sixteenth century,) as the present filling-in is done with common wood framing. The piers on each side this window, with remnants of arches, and small circular com¬ partments, with the small circular tower on the left, Saxon work. The small octangular tower on the right, work of the sixteenth century. The centre tower similar to its western aspect. The farther portion of the edifice to be discussed will ex¬ tend to the extremity of the double aile of the choir. In the first division of the first story are vestiges of the inter¬ nal arches (attached to the wall of the south aile of choir) of a destroyed chapel, and the supposed entrance (K. in plan) from it in ditto aile. In the five following divisions the windows are of various styles: first window, sixteenth century; second ditto, fourteenth century; fourth and fifth ditto, thirteenth century. First and second door-ways, six¬ teenth century. The windows to the second story of the choir are apparently of the sixteenth century. On the piers between each of these windows are preparations for flying buttresses, as supports springing from the walls of the side ailes; but it is not known whether such buttresses have been destroyed, or if they ever were executed. The eastern ex¬ tremity of this upper story is in a complete state, as to its design. Battlements, recent brick-work. Above the east¬ ern exterior of the double aile of the choir rises an octan¬ gular turret, containing stairs. Continuing the line of the first story, Our Lady’s chapel takes place; its design re¬ mains very complete, which, with buttresses, 'windows, and their varied tracery, entablature, parapet, &c. strongly de¬ note the style of the fourteenth century, a period when our antient architecture flourished in its utmost splendour, un¬ der the patronage of that august monarch. Edward the Third. The attached vestry, near the east line of the chapel, has been deprived of its original windows, those substituted being of the sixteenth century. plate V. Longitudinal section (from west to east) presenting the north side of the interior of the Abbey Church of St Alban. The first object to be noticed is the centre west porch perfect in all it, parts, Order, that of Henry the Third Clusters of columns at the angles (detached) support the groins. On a stone seat rise detached columns and arches, forming recesses, above them other recesses, and ol the same design. On entering the church the whole range of the building is seen, and seen without any mo¬ dem masonic adulterations. The range eirhibits most of he orders of architecture, from the earliest Saxon down to that of the Tudor const,notion. The original building was of great extent, as the nine divisions westward from the centre tower, and the tower itself, are of Saxon work. How far the original church extended westward cannot he now ascertained, but it is probable that it termi¬ nated nearly where the more modem work begins. There 3 are likewise vestiges of Saxon work eastward of the centre tower, where the choir was carried on in that mode, but destroyed for other introductions in the Pointed style. The transepts stand wholly of Saxon work, and retain their ori¬ ginal plan: the dimensions are on an extensive scale. Cutting through the west window, the first four divisions are on view : they are of the Pointed order, and appear to bear the style of the thirteenth century. Clusters of four columns, attached to an octangular pier, support the arches of the first story. The windows in the side aile obliterated. The gallery story, consisting of clusters of columns, support double arches. In the spandrils of the arches of the first story are small clusters of columns, rising from consoles, which indicate a support to the principal cluster of columns of the gallery. The third, or window story, has its piers set with columns and compartments: through the thickness of these piers runs a gallery of communication. The windows are of the early simple pointed form, without mullions or tracery. The Saxon work next comes under notice, in nine divisions, made out by piers worked on the first story into breaks; the centre, or principal one, rises the whole height of the elevation; the other breaks, right and left, run into arches. In the aile, pointed windows, with mullions and tracery, (work of the fifteenth century,) have been inserted. The second story, once a gallery, but destroyed, has small piers and plain arches, which opened into the gallery. These arches have been filled with common windows of the sixteenth century. The third story has its windows com¬ plete, except in the first division, which has one in the style of those added at the gallery of communication west¬ wards. The fifth pier of the first story has been worked into a column and capital of that early and simple cast, which it is natural to infer first came into practice after the disuse of the regular Roman order. The sixth and seventh piers have been cut into on the first story; and against the latter pier is the section of St. Cuthbert's altar, or screen, entering into the choir. The entire cieling, from the west end to the centre tower, a flat one, of the six¬ teenth century. Centre tower: the piers, their breaks and arches, corre¬ spondent to the preceding divisions, rise nearly to the height of the nave. Much of the breaks in the lower halves of the piers cut away; an expedient which not only disfigures the design, but renders the support of this part of the edifice extremely precarious. Above the heads of the great arches is the gallery of communication round the tower: next tier two large windows, with breaks and arches : over their heads is laid a flat cieling, style like that of the nave. A modem flooring succeeds. The loft next seen has plain double win¬ dows. In the thickness of the walls, right and left, the gal¬ leries to the different stories of the tower are in section. To what height the interior of the tower was originally left open to view from the choir, whether to the platform of the ele¬ vation, by way of lanthorn, as at York, Durham, Lincoln, &c. or otherwise, is uncertain. In the sixteenth century it opened to the cieling of that date, as above; at present a painted coved cieling is thrown over the heads of the great arches, to the loss of much architectural scenery, for the common purposes of ringing, chime, and bell lofts. Through the great arch is seen the door-way to stairs in north-west an■ .