I In One Volume Quarto, Price £2. 2s. Boards, WITH EIGHT FINE ENGRAVINGS AND A MAP, TRAVELS IN THE INTERIOR OF BRAZIL '*N PRECEDED BY ^f An Account of a Voyage to the Rio df la Plat it.. By JOHN MAWB, y flttttior of a %ttntiu on ttje ^inttatogg of "DtiTi^Wu " Of the knowledge, sagacity, skill and experience of this Author as a minera- logist, we have before had the most honourable testimony, and this production cannot fail to add considerably to his reputation. It has also much of the re- commendation of novelty for the state of the mines of Brazil, and of the agricul- ture of the country, has hitherto been very imperfectly known; there is also Eerhaps in this volume, the most satisfactory account which we have hitlierto ad, of the unfortunate expedition against Buenos Ayres, by General White- locke, and the causes of its failure are impartially detailed and perspicuously ex- plained : altogether we consider the work as a valuable addition to our geogra- phical collections, and more particularly acceptable as exhibiting what has not yet appeared in any English publication, a scientific account of the diamond mines and diamond works of this part of South America." British Critic, June, 1813. PRINTED FOR LONGMAN, HCRST, REES, ORME, AND BROWN, PATERMOSTER-BOW; AND AT THE BRITISH GALI.ERY, 54, NEW BONO-STRBST. Corrected io March 1813. 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SIR, THE Favour which your Royal Highness has been pleased to con- fer on the author, by permitting him to offer this work to the public under the Sanction of so Illustrious a Patron, commands this acknow- ledgment of his Gratitude. It was not, Sir, merely the wish of prefixing your Illustrious name to this volume, which prompted the IV DEDICATION. author to solicit the permission which has been thus indulgently granted to him : It appeared, that a Treatise on Gems' and Precious Stones, which are more exclusively appropriated to the service of the Great, should, with peculiar proprie- ty, be inscribed to your Royal Highness, whose exalted Rank and acknowledged Taste, render you, Sir, the natural Patron of the most rare and beautiful productions of the Mineral Kingdom. With these Sentiments of Grati. tude and Respect, I have the honour to remain. Your Royal Highness's obliged, And obedient humble Servant, JOHN MAWE. PREFACE* THE object of the Author in the fol- lowing pages, has been to present to the Amateur of Gems, and of other precious Stones, a popular, but at the same time a useful History of these beautiful Substances. Accordingly, he has not only selected from the systematic Works of highest Authority, the most important technical Characters by which each Species is distinguished, but has added, from various sources, and part- ly from his own observation and experience, such other Particulars, relative to their commercial History, and to their employ- ment in Jewellery, for the purpose of personal decoration, as he conceives to be generally interesting. In consequence of the great stress laid VI PREFACE. upon Colour, as an essential character of Gems, both by the wearers of them, and by those who deal in them, he has annexed a few coloured Plates, to shew (what indeed all scientific Mineralogists have long been acquainted with) that though certain suites of Colours belong to particular Species, yet each Species admits only certain varieties of tint. Thus red, yellow, orange, blue and white, occur both in the Sapphire and in the Topaz; notwithstanding which, the corresponding colours of each Mineral, are sufficiently distinguishable, by a marked difference of tinge or of intensity. So it is with regard to the other characters. All the Gems, when compared with other Minerals, are hard ; but each may be dis- tinguished from the rest, by the degree in which it exhibits this quality. PREFACE. Vll It is only, therefore, by a careful com- parative examination of Gems, that the Jeweller, or the Amateur, can be certain of their genuineness; and, considering the value of these substances individually, and the vast sums that are vested in them col- lectively, it is really surprising to observe the gross mistakes committed in this re- spect, by those, who from interest, and from a familiar acquaintance with them, ought to be the least likely to fall into error. Not only one Species is both bought and sold for another, as Tourmaline for Emerald, Garnet for Ruby, Aquamarine for Topaz ; but the fraudulent compositions of itine- rant dealers, such as Doublets, Pastes, &c. too frequently pass current for the ge- nuine produce of the Mine. If the Volume that is here offered Vlll PREFACE. to the Public, should contribute to secure the honourable Dealer in Gems, and the liberal Purchaser from the arts of the un- principled, and should induce those into whose possession these rare and beautiful Productions of Nature chiefly fall, to re- gard them as somewhat above the class of merely expensive baubles, the Author will consider the time that he has devoted to this purpose, by no means spent in vain. Much of the original information con- tained in this Treatise, is the result of the Author's recent travels in Brazil ; a Country, rich beyond comparison, in its mineral Productions, and which, the pro- tection of His Royal Highness the Prince Regent of Portugal, has enabled the Au- thor to explore, under advantages, never before conceded to any one. CONTENTS. Dedication, Preface, Page iii CHAPTER I. Section i. Value, and general Estimation of the Diamond, - 1 Section 2. Knowledge possessed by the Ancients concerning this Gem, - - - - - - 10 Section 3. Physical and Chemical Characters of Diamond, - 15 Section 4. Chemical Properties and Analysis, - - 26 Section 6. Localities and Geological Situation, - - 28 m X CONTENTS. Section 6. Notice of some particular Diamonds, Section 7. Commercial History Section 8. Art of Cutting and Polishing Diamonds, CHAPTER H. Page 33 36 45 Oriental Ruby, Sapphire, — Oriental Amethyst, and Topaz, - - . . _ 63 CHAPTER HI. Ruby, Spinelle and Balais — Emerald, — Chrysoberyl, — Topaz, - - - - - 81 CHAPTER iV. Chrysolite, — Aquamarine, — ^Tourmaline, — Hyacinth, and Jargoon, _ _ . _ io7 CHAPTER V. Opal, — Amethyst, — Rock Crystal, — Garnet, — Fel- spar, Adularia, — Labrador Spar, — Cat's Eye, 123 CHAPTER VI. Turquois, — Lapis-lazuli, — Chrysoprase, — Semi-Opal, — Carnelian, — Sardonyx, — Agate, — Jasper, - 151 LIST OF PLATES. PLATE I. No. 1. Is the Plane and Profile of a Blue Topaze in the Author's Possession. 2. A Chr^fsoberj'l — the finest known. 3. A perfect Amethyst. 4. A superlatively fine Topaze. 5. An Aqua-marina. The above are allowed to be the finest Gems of their Class, and to be cut in the best Style. PLATE n. Nos. 1, 2, 3, and 4, are natural Crystallizations of rough Diamonds, in the Author's possession. xu LIST OF "PLATES. No. 5, Is to shew the Brilliant cut. 6, the Rose. 7, the Table. Under No. 7, shews how dark coloured stones are cut to the best advantage. No. 8, Star cut. 9, Small Steps. 10, Large Steps. These are the Shapes that Gems are generally cut into, and which may be modified into innumerable forms. Nos. 11, 12, 13, are to shew Stones cut in an ellip- tical form, more or less round, which are not fit for facets. PLATE IIL Is intended to shew various Colours of precious Stones. DIAMOND. CHAP. I. § 1. Value and general Esti?nation of the Diamond, A HERE are few things in the history of the human race, that at first sight appear so remarkable, as the prodigious value which, by common consent, in all ages, and in all civilized countries, has been at- tached to the Diamond. That a house with a large estate, the means of living not only at ease, but in splendour, should be set in competition with, and even be DIAMOND. deemed inadequate to the purchase of a transparent crystallized stone not half the size of a hen's egg, seems almost a kind of insanity. And it would indeed, truly deserve this name, if the purchaser parted with what the seller acquired by such a transfer. If, for the consciousness of pos- sessing a Diamond almost three quarters of an ounce in weight, a country gentleman were to pay ^90,000 in ready money, and an annuity of ^4000 beside, he would very deservedly run some risk of a statute of lunacy ; yet not only the above sum, but a patent of Nobility into the bargain, was given by the Empress Catharine of Russia for the famous Diamond of Nadir Shah. But in this case, although the seller acquired much, the purchaser underwent no personal privation, and in fact, notwith- DIAMOND. s standing the costliness and high estimation of Diamonds, they are not really put in competitio»n with the substantial comforts and conveniences of life. Among; orna- ments and luxuries, however, they unques- tionably occupy, and have ever occupied the highest rank. Even Fashion, prover- bially capricious as she is, has remained steady in this, one of her earliest attach- ments, during probably three or four thou- sand yeJars. There must be, therefore, in the nature of things, some adequate reason for this universal consent, which it is worth while to enquire into. The utility of Diamond, great as it is iri some respects, enters for little or nothing into the calculation of its price ; at least all that portion of its value which consti- tutes the difference between the cost of an B 2 >M » H ::♦ DIAMOND. entire Diamond and an equal weight of Diamond-powder, must be attributed to other causes. The beauty of this gem, depending on its unrivalled lustre is, no doubt, the cir- cumstance which originally brought it into notice, and still contributes very materially to uphold it in public estimation ; and certainly, notwithstanding the smallness of its bulk, there is no substance natural or artificial that can sustain any comparison with it in this respect. The vivid and va- rious refractions of the opal, the refreshing tint of the emerald, the singular and beautiful light that streams from the six rayed ,star of the girasol, the various co- lours combined with hig;h lustre that dis- tinguish the ruby, the sapphire, and the topaz, , beautiful as they are upon a near H---' DIAMOND. inspection, are almost entirely lost to the distant beholder ; whereas the Diamond, without any essential colour of its own, imbibes the pure solar ray, and then reflects it either with undiminished intensity, too white and too vivid to be sustained for more than an instant by the most insensi- ble eye, or decomposed by refraction into those prismatic colours which paint the rainbow amd the clouds of morninir and of evening, Combined with a brilliancy which yields, and hardly yields, to that of the meridian sun. Other oems inserted into rings and bracelets, are best seen by the wearer; and if they attract the notice of bystanders, divide the attention and with- draw those regards wliich ought to be con- centred on the person to the merely ac- cessary ornaments. The Diamond, on the 6 DIAMOND. contrary, whether blazing on the crown of state, or diffusing its starry radiance from the breast of titled merit, or "in courts and feasts and high solemnities,*' wreathing itself with the hair, illustrating the shape and colour of the neck, and entering am- bitiously into contest with the living lustre of those eyes that " rain influence'' on all beholders, blends harmoniously with the general effect, and proclaims to the most distant ring of the surrounding crowd, the person of the monarch, of the knight, or of the beauty. Another circumstance tending to en- hance the value of the Diamond, is this, namely, that although small stones are sufliciently abundant to be within the reach of a moderate expenditure, (and therefore affording to all persons who are DIAMOND. / in easy circumstances, an opportunity of acquiring a taste for Diamonds) yet those of a laro-er size are and ever have been rather rare; and of those wliich are cele- brated for their size and beauty, the whole number, at least in Europe, scarcely amounts to half adozen, and they are all in the possession of Sovereign Princes. Hence the acquisition even of a moderately large Diamond, is what mere money cannot always command ; and many are the favours, both political and of other kinds, for which a Diamond of large size or uncommon beauty may be offered as the compensa- tion, Avhere its commercial price in hard cash, neither could be tendered, nor would be received.* In many circumstances * Who is ignorant that the Czar Peter, with his whole army, when surrounded by tlie Turk?, owed his iHHI^ 8 DIAMOND. also, it is a matter of no small importanec for a person to have a considerable part of safety to the fascinating splendour of the Diamonds of his empress ? Nor is it less notorious, that the jewels of the princes of India have, on certain occasions, shone with unconquerable charms in the eyes of Eu- ropeans, both in the East and nearer home. The Regent Diamond of France, if report says true, was played with such success by the wily Seyez before the sovereign of Prussia, as to produce for the service of France forty thousand horses with their equipments. That the most absolute and despotic monarchs, such as those of India and of other eastern countries, should have what appears to us an almost insane passion for Diamonds, is not to be wondered at. To a sovereilAM0ND4 SI tinct grains. The residue thus cleaned is subjected to an accurate examination for the Diamonds which it may contain. These are distinguished partly by their crys- talline form, but principally by their pecu- liar lustre, slightly verging on semi-metallic, but which cannot be adequately described by words. Diamonds of the smallest size, that is whose weight does not exceed a fifth of a carat, or even the fifth of a grain, are many times more abundant than all the rest put together : these are of no use in jewellery, but when broken and ground to the reqiuisite degree of fineness com- pose the Diiamond powder, a material ab- solutely necessary for polishing and setting facets upon the larger Diamonds, If the above mentioned conglomerate is not the 32 DIAMOND. real matrix of the Diamond, its true geo- logical situation is unknown, for it has never as yet been discovered in any other rock. The mineralogist who has been in the habit of seeing and accurately examining numerous specimens of this gem acquires a kind of tact, that enables him to distin- guish at once and with little risk of mis- take a holsa of stones from Hindostan, and a similar one from Borneo, or from the Por- tuguese territories in South America : nay, even the Diamonds furnished by one part of the Serro do Frio may be discriminated from those of other parts of Brasil, or even of the same district. But these characters, although sufficiently visible to the experi- enced eye, are too evanescent to be restrict- DIAMOND. ss ed within technical description, and are as yet entirely unknown to the conunercial dealers in precious stones. § 6. Notice of some particular Diamonds. The largest of all the undoubted Dia- monds is that mentioned by Tavernier as in the possession of the Grand Mogul. In form and size it resembles half a hen's egg : its weight, according to the testimony of the same traveller, (a jeweller by pro- fession and who himself weighed it,) is 297^ carats, or, 156 carats being equal to a troy ounce, 860 grains. It was found about the year 1550 in the mine of Colore, not far to the east of Golconda. An oriental Diamond formerly belong- f^"»r-^-^^^'i^^^^. 34 DIAMOND. ing to Nadir Shah, Sultan of Persia, de- serves the next place: it is without flaws or faults of any kind, and weighs J93 carats. Its form is that of a flattened ovoid, and it is about the size of a pigeon's egg. It was purchased by the late Em- press Catherine for about ^^90,000 ready money, and an annuity of about £4,000 more. The next in size is a rough Brasilian Diamond, found in the river Abatio in Dossession of the Prince Regent of Por- tugal weighing near an ounce troy. The Pitt or Regent Diamond, is said to have been found in Malacca. It was pur- chased by Mr. Pitt, an English gentleman, then Governor of Bencoolen in Sumatra, and was sold by him for £130,000 to the Regent Duke of Orleans, by whom it was placed ^4^^^' DIAMOND. 35 among the crown jewels of France, and of which it still forms the great glory. It is cut in the form of a briUiant, and is ab- solutely faultless. It weighs IS6^ carats, and its value as estimated by a commission of jewellers in the year 1791? is twelve mil- lions of livres. Perhaps one of the largest and most beautiful coloured Diamonds is a rich sky- blue brilUant, belonging to the crown jewels of France: it weighs 6?^ caratsy and is estimated at three millions of livres. In this list I have not enumerated the supposed great Diamond of Portugal, be- cause it is now the general opinion, both of mineralogists and jewellers, that this stone is a white topaz. It was found in Brazil, in the Diamond mines, is as yet in its rough d2 36 tHAMOND. slate, and weighs 1680 carats, above eleven ounces.* § 7. Commercial History. The circumstances which led to the dis- covery of Diamonds in the various oriental countries mentioned in a former section, we are wholh^ unacquainted with : but with regard to the discovery of this gem in Brazil, the follov/ing I believe, v/ill be found to be a correct account. About a century ago that part of Brazil called Serro do Frio, (the cold ridge) was explored for gold ; and in the search after this precious metal * This stone I did not see when in Brazil. DIAMOND. 37 a considerable number of shining pebbles were picked up and transmitted to Lisbon. From this place they were sent to Holland for examination, and being placed in the hands of the most eminent lapidaries of that country, were pronounced by them to be real Diamonds, equal in quality to those from Golconda, or from any other part of India. In consequence of this favourable report, an importation of the article from Brazil took place so considerable, as inafew years to excite general apprehensions among the merchants, of a great deterioration in its price. To counteract this, a report was studiously circulated, that the Brazilian Diamonds were decidedly and essentially inferior to the oriental ones. By some persons it was even denied that the Dia- mond was ireally a native of America, and ilf^!4?!^3^^,5 33 DxAMONC. the notorious fact of the importation of these gems from Brazil was accounted for by saying, that they were only the refuse of the Indian market sent from Hindoostan to Goa, from which place they passed into America on their road to Lisbon. These representations occasioned such a general prejudice against Brazilian Dia- monds, that the Portuguese, finding them- selves unable to stem it, had recourse to an ingenious method of eluding its effects, by secretly transmitting the produce of the Brazilian mines to Goa, and thence to Ben- gal. Here they were sold at very high prices, and, being made up by the Indian merchants into bolsas, were sent to Eng- land and to other parts of Europe, where they were received by the jewellers as ge- nuine oriental stones. Being thus brought DIAMOND. 39 into equal competition with the Indian Diamonds, they were soon found to be not at all inferior ; the prejudice was removed, and at present, the real or supposed native country of a Diamond, is not an element that enters into the calculation of its com- mercial value. The Diamond mines of India have long been declining ; several of them are now abandoned and scarcely any of the rest con- tribute at present to the supply of the Euro- pean market. Borneo furnishes a few bolsas, but these, to judge from such samples as I have myself seen, contain a larger pro- portion of coloured and bad stones than those from Brazil. In fact it may be said, that the European demand is now almost wholly dependant on the supplies from this latter country. 40 DIAMOND. This lucrative commerce was formerly almost monopolized by the Dutch. The consul for that nation possessed an ex- clusive contract in Brazil for all that were brought to sale in that quarter, whilst in India their agents were equally active in buying up every thing that was offered there. By these means they obtained a valuable branch of trade; and at the same time secured to their working jewellers the profit of cutting and polishing, not onl}^ Diamonds, but the other most valuble gems ; thus rendering the sovereign princes and most opulent individuals of Europe, tributary to them for the most valued and costly of all ornamental substances. Besides the ordinary annual importa- tion of Diamonds into England, there have been during the last eighty or ninety years DIAMOND. 41 Iwo remarkable influxes of them which re- quire to be noticed. The first took place from Brazil not long after the first disco- very of Diamonds in that country, and be* fore the trade was regulated or monopo- lized. They were then scarcely acknow- ledged as true Diamonds ; and from the low estimation in which they were held, excited little or no competition among the buyers : on this account the lots that were consign- ed to the merchants sold cheap : the jewel- lers however into whose hands they passed refused to dispose of them at a lower rate than usual, and by witholding them for some time obtained at length very advan- tageous prices for them. The next great influx was at the time of the French revolution. The nobility and other emigrants who sought shelter 42 DIAMOND. here from the commotions of their own country, brought with them large quantities of Diamonds. These, from the necessi- ties of their owners, soon found their way to market, and were disposed of to the jewellers at prices which had a reference rather to the necessity of the sellers, than to the intrinsic value of the article; for the regular sale price of Diamonds did not suffer the smallest abatement on this ac- count. Perhaps at no period has the demand been greater for what may be called sale- able stones, than at the present time. By saleable stones, I mean such as are usually offered for sale, and ar^ not remarkably large. Stones of considerable size are so extremely rare, as to render their value very arbitrary. Few persons can afford DIAMOND. 43 to enter into the competition, hence the first rate gems have always been slow of sale and probably will ever remain so. The present disturbed political state of Europe is peculiarly unfavourable to the sale of such Diamonds as demand the sacrifice of £50,000 or upwards for their purchase. As a very large property both in this country and among the other nations of Europe is vested in Diamonds, it may be interesting to be informed, not only that the price of these gems has for several years been upon the whole gradually rising, but that it is likely still to continue on the advance. The best Diamond ground at present known in the world is that of Serro do Frio ; and this most assuredly has passed its zenith. The quantity of ground remaining to be explored, is perfectly well 44 mAMOND. known, and the average annual produce may be estimated from that portion which has already been exhausted. The Diamond mines in Brazil, belong- ing either to the Crown or to the Prince Regent, the trade in this gem, except through the medium of the Government agents, is considered as contraband. In fact, however, they are not unfre- quently offered to sale by private ad- venturers, at prices corresponding with, and regulated by, those which are agreed to by the agents of Government, and a consider- able proportion of the whole produce, finds its way to market in this unlicensed manner, notwithstanding the very severe penalties annexed to these transactions. The Government Diamonds, however, form the cluQf part of the trade. These iB DIAMOND. 45 are the produce of the different royal mines in the interior of Brazil ; whence they are transmitted to the seat of Government at Rio de Janeiro : the Prince Resent there selects from the whole such stones as he chooses to add to his own collection, (which, by this means, has become the most superb of any in modern, and pro- bably in ancient times,) and the remainder are consigned to the Portuguese Ambas- sador, for the time resident in England, by whom they are deposfted in the Bankj for sale. § 8. Art of Cutting and Polishing Diamonds. The object of cutting and pohshing the Diamond is twofold. First, to divide the 46 DIAMOND. natural surface of the stone in a sj^mmetri- cal manner, by means of a number of highly polished polygonal planes, and thus to bring out to the best advantage, the wonderful refulgence of this beautiful gem ; and secondly, by cutting out such flaws as may happen to be near the surface, to remove those blemishes that materially de- tract from its beauty, and consequently from its value. The removal of flaws is a matter of great importance, for, owing to the form in which the Diamond is cut, and its high degree of refrangibility, the smallest fault is magnified and becomes obtrusively visible in every facet. For this reason also, it is by no means an easy matter, at all times, to ascertain whether a flaw is, or is not superficial ; and a person with a correct DIAMOND. 47 and well-practised eye, may often purchase to great advantage stones which appear to be flawed quite through, but are in fact only superficially blemished. The first thing that the artist has to do when a rough Diamond is put into his hands, is to examine carefully, in what direction the stone may be cut, so as to afford the greatest breadth, or spread as it is technically termed, after the flaws, if any* shall have been taken out. So great a stress is laid by modern fashion, on the superficial extent of a brilhant, that the old rules for proportioning its dimensions are now nearly obsolete : the best cutters have entirely discarded the use of measures, and in forming the facets, trust wholly to an accurate and well-practised eye. The di- rection being determined on, the artist S^sffiS: v;-;:i'^'if -J 48 DIAMOND. must be well aware which are the hard points, and which the soft ones ; the former being those sohd angles of the original octohedron, which it is necessary to cut directly across, and the latter, those solid angles which are to be obliquely divided. A degree of force which may be safely applied, and is even requisite in making a section through the former, will be very apt to flaw and tear up the laminae when applied to the latter. On these ac- counts it probably is, that the fa- tiguing and even painful process of performing this part of the business b}"^ hand, is not yet superseded by the use of machinery. These preliminary matters being settled, the Diamond is imbedded in strong ce- ment, fixed at the end of a stout spindle- DIAMOND. 49 shaped-stick about a foot long, with tliat por- tion only projecting, the removal of which is to form the first facet. Tlie instru- ment employed for this purpose is another Diamond fixed in a stick similar to the for- mer, with one of the solid angles project- ing. In order to collect the powder and shivers that are detached during the pro- cess, the cutting is performed over a strong box four or five inches square, furnished with a false bottom perforated with ex- cessively minute holes, in order to sift, as it were, the dust from the shivers; and also with two upright iron pegs fixed on the sides, for the workman to support and steady his fingers against, while with a short repeated stroke somewhat between scratching and cutting, he is splitting off or more laboriously wearing away the Dia- 50 DIAMOND. mond in that part where the facet is to be placed. This being done, the cement is softened by warming it, and the position of the Diamond is changed, in order to bring a fresh part under the action of the cutting Diamond . When in this slow and laborious way all the facets have been placed upon the surface of the Diamond, the cutting is completed. The stone, if examined by a moderate magnifier, now presents ragged rough edges ; and a broken foliated surface with a glistening lustre on those facets that are nearly in the direction of the natural laminee, and on the other facets a more even surface, but of a dull opake greyish white colour. The shape of many Diamonds is so ir- regular, that it is necessary to remove pieces of considerable magnitude, in order to bring 1>f- DIAMOND. 51 them to a form proper for cutting. Where the lines of these proposed sections coin- cide with the natural lamellar structure of the stone, the workman has recourse to the delicate and perhaps somewhat hazard- ous operation of splitting the Diamond, by which a double advantage is obtained. In the first place there is a great saving of time, and in the second place the slices or shivers are themselves sufficiently large to admit of being cut and polished. The method of splitting is made a great mys- tery of, thus much however may be men- tioned, that when the direction in which the section is to be made has been deter- mined on, it is marked by a very fine line cut by the point of another Diamond ; the stone is afterwards fixed by strong cement in the proper position in a block E 2 52 DIAMOND. of wood, and then by the apphcation of a due degree of force the section is ef- fected. The Diamond being thus, by the joint action of spHtting and cutting, brought to the required form, the next object is to pohsh the facets, and at the same time to redress any Httle inequahties that may have taken place in the cutting. The pohshing mill is an extremely simple ma- chine, consisting of a circular horizontal plate of cast iron 14 or 15 inches in diameter, (called a skive,) suspended on a spindle, and capable of being put into rapid motion by means of a larger wheel 5 or 6 feet in diameter, and turned by an assistant. From the centre to the circum- ference of the iron plate are lines or shal- low grooves formed by rubbing it in that DIAMOND. 53 direction with a fine-grained gritstone ; these grooves serve to retain the mixture of oil and Diamond powder with which the plate is charged. In order to keep the Diamond perfectly steady while the polish- ing of each facet is going on, the following contrivance is had recourse to. A copper cup (called a dopp,) about three quarters of an inch in depth and in width, and fur- nished with a stem about four inches long of stout copper wire, is filled with plumbers' solder, which also projects in a conical form beyond the rim of the cup : in the apex of this cone, the solder being softened by heat, the Diamond is imbedded with one of the facets projecting. The stem of the cup is now put into very power- ful pincers, which screw up with a nut and a wrench or lever, and thus hold it p-er^ a^^s^^j^l 54 DIAMOND. fectly tight. The handles of the pincers (called tongs) are of wood, are broad and terminated by two feet, about an inch high, so that when laid horizontally they are supported exactly as a pair of candle snuffers is, the studs fixed to the handles of the snuffers representing the legs of the pincers, and the single stud near the point of the snuffers representing the inverted copper cup holding the Diamond, and at the same time having its stem strongly griped by the pincers. In this position the Diamond is placed on the plate, the pincers resting on their legs on the wooden bench or table that supports the plate, and pressing at the same time against an up- right iron peg; the broad part of the pincers between the legs and the Diamond, is then loaded with weights, both to steady DIAMOND. 55 the machine, and to increase the pressure of the Diamond against the skive. Mat- ters being thus adjusted, a little oil and Diamond powder is dropped on the plate, it is set in motion at the rate of about 200 revolutions in a minute, and the process of grinding down, and at the same time of polishing is begun. The Diamond is taken up and examined from time to time, and is adjusted so as to give the facet its true form. The heat occasioned by the friction is at all times pretty considerable, and when the pincers are heavily loaden it occasionally increases to such a degree as to soften the solder and displace the Dia- mond. This is a serious accident, frequent- ly occasioning a flaw in the Diamond, and always tearing up the surface of the skive, m 1)IAM0ND. so as to damage it very considerably. There is room on the skive for three or four Dia- monds at the same time ; and to give each its proper share of attention is as much as one person can well manage. The com- pletion of a single facet often occupies some hours. Diamonds are brilliant cut, rose cut, and table cut. The brilliant is deservedly in the highest estimation, as it is the form which shows to the greatest advantage the peculiar lustre of this gem. The propor- tions and method of forming the brilliant are described by Jeffries ; and with regard to the shape and position of the facets no change has hitherto taken place, although, from the present fashion of preserving as great a spread or surface as possible, the £^, DIAMOND. 57 rules for proportioning the dimensions of the brilliant are by no means strictly ad- hered to. The brilliant* may be considered as formed of two truncated pyramids united together by one common base, thfe upper pyramid being much more deeply truncated than the lower one. The plane formed by the truncature of the upper pyramid is called the table (a) ; that formed by the truncature of the lower is called the col- let (6); the common base is called the girdle (c) ; the sp^ce between the table and the girdle is the bizcl (^d), and that between the girdle and the collet is the collet-side (e). Both the table and the collet are regular octagons; the bizel is formed by eight *P1. 2. Fig. 5. 58 DIAMOND. lozenges and twenty-four triangles ; the collet side is occupied by four irregular pentagons alternating with as many irre- gular lozenges, radiating from the collet as a centre, and usually called the pavi- lion facets, and bordered by sixteen tri- angular facets, adjoining the girdle. The brilliant is set with the table side upwards, and the collet side implanted in the cavity made to receive the Diamond. The regular rose Diamond*, is the form given to those stones the spread of which is too great in proportion to their depth to admit of being brilliant cut, without a great loss of substance. It is formed by covering the whole surface of the stone with equilateral triangles, each pair being * PI. 2. Fig. 6. DIAMOND. 59 placed base to base, so as to form a kind of rhomb. The table Diamond is the least beauti- ful mode of cutting, and is applied only to those stones or rather fragments, which with a considerable breadth have only a very trifling depth. Good stones, from one to four or five carats, if skilfully cut either into brilliants or rose Diamonds, lose in the process somewhat less than half their weight; hence the value of a cut stone is twice that of a rough stone of equal weight, in- dependently of the cost of cutting. The Diamond-cutters of England are confessedly the best in Europe, but their number is unfortunately so small a» to occasion many stones to be sent to Hol- land ; where, from the greater number 60 DIAMOND. and more active competition of the artists, the price of workmanship is considerably lower, but in at least an equal degree in- ferior to that of London. Brilliant cut Diamonds are so infinitely superior to the others, that of late many rose-cut stone* from Holland have been recut into bril- liants, notwithstanding the additional ex- pence and the loss of size necessarily at- tendant on this operation. Diamonds themselves are always equally in fashion, but the mode of setting them varies according to the caprice of taste or the desire of novelty : hence the jewel- ler has perpetual opportunities of exer- cising and displaying the inventive ele- gance of his taste in the assortment of hues and the arrangement of groups. He will cluster together the smaller stones so DIAMOND. 61 as to aggrandize and enhance the effect of the whole; the larger and more perfect ones will generally be set open and dis- played to the greatest advantage, while the inferior ones will be assisted by set- ting them solid on black, or, if need be, with coloured foil. But whatever be the occasion that calls forth his art, Avhether the construction of a star, a bandeau, a tiara, a plume, a necklace, or an ear-drop, he will bear in mind that his greatest merit is the concealment of his art : the display of belts and borders of gold can add nothing to the superlative splendour of the Diamond. Silver fades in the pre- sence of gold, gold itself yields to the more brilliant and costly materials of the jewels ler, and of these the most beautiful, the most costly, the very perfection of the 6*S DIAMOND. gerr. creation is a colourless brilliant with- out speck or flaw, large enough to attract notice, yet not so bulky as to be cumber- some in itself, or too disproportionate to the smaller ones with which it is associ- ated. ORIENTAL RUBY. 63 CHAP. TI. ORIENTAL RUBY, SAPPHIRE, ORIENTAL AMETHYST, AND TOPAZ. As the Diamond differs essentially from all other gems in its chemical com- position, a question has been started, whether it properly belongs to the class of precious stones. This question can be answered only by an inquiry into the meaning annexed to the terms gem and precious stone. Upon this we may re- mark in the first place, that neither of the terms is strictly speaking scientific, and therefore, their meaning must be deter- mined by common acceptation. Now, *ff*^-'n«>f l^^J^? 64 ORIENTAL RUBY. I believe, the whole of the properties es- sentially connected with either the one or the other term are the followinor. That the substance should be a native mineral, and not an artificial glass or paste; that it should be possessed of great hardness, of high lustre, of an agreeable tone of colour ; that it should be (comparatively speaking,) of rare occurrence, and of small bulk. In all these qualities the Diamond and the earthy gems so perfectly agree, that the mere chemical difference, when considering them as objects of beauty or luxury, may without inconvenience be entirely overlooked. Without further de- lay therefore, I shall proceed to the de- scription of the Oriental Ruby, the most beautiful and precious of all the coloured gems. ir ORIENTAL RUBY. 65 The Oriental Ruby, though differing in some particulars from the Sapphire, is considered by tthe generality of modern mi- neralogists as belonging to the same species; and certainly the crystallographical cha- racters and chemical composition of these two gems present a very remarkable ana- logy. In several subordinate characters however, as well as in the estimation of the public, there is a difference of suf- ficient importance to justify me, I trust, in separating them ; more especially as the present work is intended for the use of the amateur rather than for the scientific mineralogist. Tije most esteemed, but at the same time the rarest colour, of the Ruby is pure carmine or blood red of considerable in- tensity, forming when well polished a blaze w.W.Wfif^jg^^ 66 ORIENTAL RUBY. of the most exquisite and unrivalled tint. It is however in general more or less pale and mixed with blue in various propor- tions ; hence it occurs rose red and reddish white, crimson, peach blossom red, and lilac blue (the latter variety, when it occurs, going by the name of Oriental Ame- thyst, and forming the passage between the Ruby and Sapphire.) It is met with in small angular and rounded pieces, and crystallized in rhomboids, in hexahedral prisms and in pyramidal dodecahedrons variously modified : the crystals are almost always small, and when not worn by rub- bing have a brilliant external lustre. When broken the Ruby presents a lamellar structure with natural joints in three di- rections parallel to the faces of a rhomboid, and these faces have a highly shining vitre- ORIENTAL RUBY. 67 ous lustre. It is more or less transparent, passing to semi-transparent; in hardness, it ranks the third of all known substances, yielding only to the Diamond and the Sapphire. Its specific gravity is about 3.9. From the analysis of this gem, by ' Mr. Chenevix, it appears to consist of 90 . Alumine. 7 . Silex. 1 . 2 Oxide of Iron. 98.2 1 . 8 Loss. 100 . According to M. d'Arcet, no change is produced in the colour or transparency of this mineral, by the most intense heat. F 2 68 ORIENTAL RUBY. Pegu is the native country of the Ruby, and it is said to be found in the sand of certain streams near the town of Sirian, the capital of that country ; it also occurs with Sapphire, in the sand of rivers in Ceylon. It has occasionally been met with, imbedded in Corundum, but the geological history of this gem is, as yet, very imperfectly known. Rubies of small size and inferior quality, are not rare; they are semi-transparent, flawed, and foul, have a bad pale colour, mixed more or less, with a chatoyant milky lustre. But rubies that are perfect both in colour and transparency, are much less common than good Diamonds, and when of the weight of three or four carats, or upwards, are more valuable even than the latter gem. ORIENTAL SAPPHIRE. 69 The King of Pegu, and the Monarchs of Ava and Siam, monopohze the fine Rubies, as the Sovereigns of the Peninsula of India have done, with regard to the Diamond. The finest Ruby in the world, is in the possession of the first of these Kings ; its purity has passed into a proverb, and its worth when compared with gold, is inestimable. The Subah of the Dec- can, also, is in possession of a prodigiously fine one, a full inch in diameter. The European Princes cannot boast of any of first rate magnitude. The Oriental Sapphire, ranks the next in value to the Ruby ; when perfect, its colour is a clear and bright Prussian blue, united to a high degree of transparency. It seldom, however, occurs in this state, more generally the colour is a pale blue, 70 ORIENTAL SAPPHIRE. passing by degrees, into entirely colour- less; not unfrequently, the pale varieties are further deteiiorated by streaks and spots of a dark inky blue. It occurs in rounded pieces, and, rarely, in crystals of a small size, but for the most part, consider- ably larger than the Ruby. The primitive crystal of this substance, like that of the preceding gem, is a slightly acute rhom- boid, the alternate angles of which mea- sure 86° 38' and 93*^ 22' : it also presents nearly the same varieties and modifications of its primitive form. When broken, it displays a conchoidal fracture, seldom ex- hibiting any appearance of a lamellar structure ; in hardness it surpasses the ruby, and yields only to the Diamond. Its spe- cific gravity varies from 4 to 4.1. Before the blowpipe it is infusible with- ORIENTAL SAPPHIRE. 71 out addition. Its component parts ac*^ cording to an analysis, by Mr, Chenevix, are 92 . Alumine 5 ,25 Silex 1 . Oxide of Iron 98.25 1 . 75 Loss. 100. The pale varieties when exposed to a strong fire become entirely colourless with- out undergoing any other alteration ; after this, when cut and polished, they have been often sold for Diamonds ; on this, (some- what fraudulent) account, they bear a con- siderable value. Another remarkable variety of this 72 ORIENTAL SAPPHIRE. beautiful gem is the Asterias or Star-stone. This is a semi-transparent Sapphire, often with a reddish purple tinge, in which the summits of the primitive rhomboid are re- placed by secondary planes that present a varying chatoyant lustre. If these crystals are cut en cabochon, or in the form of an ellipse, taking care that the summit of the ellipse shall be situated exactly over the point corresponding with the summit of the rhomboid, there will be produced the ap- pearance of a star, with six rays from which, when held in the sunshine, a bright yellowish white light streams forth in beau- tiful contrast to the rich purplish blue of the other part of the stone. The largest Sapphire that I have ever seen, weighs about 310 carats, (two ounces) and among the crown jewels of France, is r ■ .^ ORIENTAL SAPPHIRE. 73 a fine rhomboidal crystal of the same, of the weight of l66 carats. The best Sapphires come from Ava and Pegu, where they accompany the Ruby. They are also frequent in the sands of cer- tain streams in the island of Ceylon, buts these latter are usually of a pale colour, and are also deformed by streaks and blotches of an inky hue. In France, they have been imet with in the sand of the brook Exp^iilly, in Forez, but of so infe- rior a quality, that the jeweller has never been able to make any use of them. Besides the iluby and Sapphire, or the red and blue varieties of the Oriental gem, (called by Hauy, Telesia, and by Bournon and Greville, perfect Corundum,) there are some other varieties, depending merely on colour, that require a short notice. Some- 74 ORIENTAL T0PA2. times this gem is met with of a yellow co- lour, and more or less mingled with red ; in this state, it is called Oriental Topaz ; its value is inferior to that either of Ruby or Sapphire ; it is, however, a very beauti- ful substance. The most esteemed colour is a bright jonquil yellow, and next to that, the pure lemon yellow. The rich reddish brown variety, is often called Oriental Hyacinth, and when it occurs of a green- ish yellow, tending more or less to olive, which is very rarely the case, it is known by the name of Oriental Emerald, or Oriental Peridot. Two or more co- lours occasionally occur in the same crysr tal ; thus, in the Greville collection, at the British Museum, is a specimen blue and red at the two extremities, and yellow in the middle. Such specimens have no par- ART OF CUTTING 75 ticular commercial value, but are verj in- teresting to the Mineralogist, as shewing how little the mere colour is to be depend- ed on in characterizing mineral species. The cutting and poHshing the gems men- tioned in this chapter, as well as those which jet remain to be treated of, forms the business of the lapidary, an art re- sembhng, yet wholly distinct from, that of the diamond cutter. The form most pro- per to be given to any particular gem being determined on, it is cemented to the end of a stick, and the facets are set on, not by cutting its surface laboriously, by means of a Diamond, but by applying it to the mill. This mill is a plate of copper, or of an alloy of lead and tin, to which a horizontal motion is given by very simple machinery. Its surface is charged with 76 ART OF CUTTING Diamond powder and oil, or with fine emery and water : the former of these, however, is greatly preferred, the rapidity with which it works being such as amply to make up for the difference in price between the two materials. A thick peg of wood, called a guage, pierced with small holes in all directions-, is set upright on the lapida- ry's bench, close to the mill ; and the pro- cess of setting the facets takes place in the following manner : — The stone is placed on the surface of the mill, the opposite end of the stick to which it is cemented being inserted in one of the holes of the guage. In this position, it is kept steady by the workman with the right hand, while with the other, he puts the mill in motion, by turning a winch. The direction of the motion given to the AND POLISHING GEMS. 77 mill is such as tends to draw the stick out of the guage, for, if given in a contrary direction, it would soon flaw and tear up the laminse of the stone. Such is the effi- cacy of Diamond-powder, that an impres- sion is almost immediately made on the hardest of the earthy gems ; and the skill of the lapidary depends on regulating the velocity of the mill, and pressing with more or less force on the stick, with an almost imperceptible tendency to one or other direction in different stages of the work ; examining each facet at very short intervals, in order to give as great preci- sion as possible, to its size and form. This part of the business being completed, the cutting mill is taken out, and replaced by one of brass, on which the polishing is performed by means of fine emery, tripoh, 78 ART OF CUTTING and rotten-stone, exactly in the same man- ner as practised in the first stage of the process for setting the facets. No inconsiderable degree of judgment is required in determining the form and proportions best adapted to set off any particular stone to the best advantage, modified as this must necessarily be by the original breadth and depth of the gem. If the colour of a stone is full and rich, if its transparency is perfect, and its refractive power considerable, the best form to give it is the brilliant :* if, on the other hand, * The form given to the most perfect coloured stones by the French artists, is that of a square or octagon, with a single delicate step between the table and the girdle, and three or four steps between the girdle and the collet. AND POLISHING GEMS. 79 the colour is dilute, the most advantageous method of cutting it, is to cut the table side brilliant fashion, and the collet side in steps, PI. 2, Fig. 9 and 10, by this means, the table itself will be left dark,while all the light reflected from the steps on the under side of the stone, will be thrown up into the facets by which the table is surrounded. When the stone possesses a varying cha- toyant lustre, such as the Star-stone, the Opal, the Labrador Felspar, or Malachite, its form is to be made more or less hemis- pherical, or elliptical,* without any flat facets, but polished to the highest possible degree of perfection. In France, certain * The flatter the ellipse, the more the varying lus- tre is diffused over the surface of the stone, as, on the other hand, with a high ellipse, it is condensed on a single spot. 80 ART OF CUTTING. dark coloured stones, as the Garnet, and certain semi-transparent ones, as the Chryosprase, are cut en cabochon, with a single or double row of small facets sur- rounding the base. W^PgwT" RUBY. 81 CHAP. III. RUBY, SPINELLE AND BALAIS EM1> RALD CHRYSOBERYL TOPAZ. The colour of the Ruby, when perfect, is a full carmine red, in which state it is known by the name of Spinelle Ruby ; when the tinge verges upon rather pale rose red, it is called Balais Ruby ; when the red has a decided shade of orange, it usually goes by the name of Vermeil ; when of a yellowish red, it is called Ru- bicelle : in other varieties, the red by mix- ture with blue, becomes crimson, violet, and finally indigo blue, which latter is sometimes so deep, as to be scarcely dis- G m RUBY. tinguished from black ; sometimes, though rarely, a greenish blue is observable ; these latter varieties scarcely belong to the Jew- eller, but are called by the Mineralogist, Ceylanite and Pleonaste. Its primitive and most usual form, is the regular octohe- dron ; it also presents the cuneiform octohe- dron, and a few other varieties ; sometimes it occurs in rolled grains. In size it very rarely exceeds eight or ten carats ; the planes of the crystals are smooth and brightly shining, with a vitreous lustre, and usually exhibit a lamellar structure; the fracture is flat conchoidal, and sometimes imperfectly foliated ; the lighter coloured varieties, when not foul or flawed, are transparent ; the dark coloured are semi- transparent, or even only translucent on the edges. Its hardness is superior to that RUBY. 83 of Quartz, but not equal to that of the Ori- ental Ruby, and the Spinelle is considera- bly harder than the Pleonaste. Its speci- fic gravity varies from 3 . 6 to 3 . 7. It is singly refractive, and is infusible without addition before the blowpipe. The Spinelle has been analyzed by Vau- quelin, and the Pleonaste by Collet Desco- tils, with the following results :— SPINELLE. 82 . 47 Alumine. 8 . 78 Magnesia. 6 . 18 Chromic Acid. 97.43 PLEONASTE. 68 . Alumine. 12 . Magnesia. 2 . Silex. 16. Oxide of Iron. 98. g2 84 RUBY. The Spinelle occurs in Cambaya, in the kingdom of Pegu, and in Ceylon :* the Ple- onaste or Ceylanite, was first discovered in Ceylon, and has since been met with in Nor- way. They appear to belong to rocks of the primitive cJass, being found imbedded in calcareous spar, and in adularia, accompa- nied by magnetic pyrites and crystals of mica. The Spinelle works easily, takes a high polish, and is a very beautiful gem ; large specimens are excessively rare ; but of the smaller ones, the number used in jewellery is considerable. It is generally set in rings and broaches, surrounded by brilliants, being too expensive for necklaces. * The Brazilian Ruby is a pink coloured Topaz. EMERALD. 85 The Emerald ranks next to the Ruby in public estimation, and in commercial value. It is distinguished from all other gems by its colour, which is a pure un- mixed green, tending neither to blue on one hand, nor to yellow on the other. In intensity it varies from the palest pos- sible tinge, to a full and pure body of colour, than which nothing can be more beautiful. The dazzling crimson of the Ruby, the golden yellow of the Topaz, the sky blue of the Sapphire, rich and ex- quisite as they are, after a time fatigue the eye, which wandering to each in turn is by each both gratified and rendered irritable. With what quiet pleasure does the sight then turn to and dwell upon the refreshing green of the Emerald, the only gem which, to adopt the language of Pliny, S6 EMERALD. fills and fixes the attention without satiat- ing it; calling up in the mind, the full verdure of spring, the untarnished vigour of vegetation, with all the sweet remem- brances and associations connected with the youth of the year, the spring of life! The primitive crystalline form of the Emerald is a regular hexahedral prism, the lateral faces of which are squares ; and this is varied by secondary faces placed on the edges and solid angles. The terminal faces of the prism arc rough, the lateral faces are smooth ; differing in this latter respect from the Beryl or Aqua- marine, the lateral faces of which are always longitudinally striated. Its frac- ture is small and imperfectly conchoidal, exhibiting at the same time, more or less, EMERALD. 87 the foliated structure of the stone ; its lustre is shining and vitreous. When free from flaws it is transparent and doubly refractive. Its hardness somewhat exceeds that of quartz. Its specific gravity is about 2.7. Before the blowpipe it is fusible with difficulty into a grey, rather frothy glass. It is composed according to Vauquelin of 64 . 5 Silex. 16 . Alumine. 13 . Glucine. 3 . 25 Oxide of Chrome. 1 . 6 Lime. 98.35 It appears from the Natural History of Pliny, that the true Emerald was certainly known to the ancients, although many 88 EMERALD. other minerals of a green colour were popularly confounded with this gem. Necklaces of Emerald have been dis- interred from Herculaneum, and an Eme- rald at present in the Museum of Natural History at Paris is known to have formerly adorned the Tiara of Pope Julius the Second, who died 32 years before the con- quest of Peru by Pizarro ; therefore the gem in question was probably from Ethi- opia, the country whence the ancients de- rived their Emeralds*. For the last two centuries and upwards the only country known to yield Emeralds is Peru ; here they occur in the Viceroyalty of Santa Fe * In the collection of M. de Dree is an antique bust of Drusus, son of the Emperor Tiberius, cut in Emerald, and forming a ring stone. EMERALD. 89 and in the valley of Tunca, between the mountains of New Granada and Poaa- payan. They are found in veins traversing clay slate, and in cavities in certain gra- nites : they are accompanied with quartz, calcareous spar, felspar, mica, and pyrites. The largest known specimens of Peru- vian Emeralds are near six inches in length by two inches in thickness ; these however are very rare, and it is still more rare to find specimens of considerable magnitude free from impurities and of a good colour. This gem was well known to the native Peruvians, by whom it was held in high estimation, and was chiefly employed in decorating their idols of massive gold ; they were acquainted with the art of polish- ing and drilling it. A similar use is made of this stone by the modern Peruvian Jtaj^aanrtilMi^MiaiwtfMiM. r^iiiii 90 EMERALD. catholics, who employ the inferior water- worn varieties to adorn the pedestals of the crucifixes, and to stud the other orna- ments used in their religious ceremonies. A favourite mode of setting them, among the opulent inhabitants of South America, is to make them up into clusters of arti- ficial flowers on gold stems. The Emerald is much esteemed in Euro- pean jewellery, and merits the very best workmanship. It appears to the greatest advantage when table-cut and surrovmded by brilliants, the lustre of which contrasts agreeably with the quiet hue of the Eme- rald. It is sometimes formed into pear- shaped ear-drops, which have a beautiful effect when playing pendant within an oval set with Diamonds. Another fashi- onable mode of making it up, where ex- CHRYSOBERYL. 91 pence is not regarded, is in necklaces and tiaras. The most choice and perfect stones are generally set in rings. Chrysoberyl or Cymophane. This gem, from the little attention that has been paid to it in Europe till of very late years, has not yet risen to the rank which it may deservedly claim. In Brazil it stands at the very head of the earthy gems, but its European value is inferior to that of those which have been already described in this treatise. Its colour is a mixture of green and golden yellow in various proportions and of different degrees of intensity. It oc- curs generally in rolled pieces, and some- times crystallized in compressed hexahedral prisms and in double six-sided pyramids. Its weight rarely amounts to ten carats. 92 CHRYSOBERYL. Its fracture is generally conchoidal, but it also presents natural joints in two direc- tions parallel to the sides of a rectangular parallelipiped ; its internal lustre is bright- ly shining, between resinous and vitreous. It is sometimes transparent, but often is only semi-transparent, and then generally exhibits a bluish-white opalescent light floating in the interior of the stone*. Its hardness is very considerable, as it scratches ft quartz with great ease. Its specific gravity is about 3.8. It is doubly refractive, and becomes easily electric by friction. It is infusible before the blowpipe, and accord- * Such specimens are popularly called opalescent chrysolites and are less esteemed by the jeweller than the transparent varieties. Sometimes one part of a stone is opalescent and the other transparent. CHRYSOBEllYL. 93 ing to an analysis by Klaproth*, is com- posed of, 71 . Alumine. 18 . Silex. 6 . Lime 1 . 5 Oxide of Iron. 96.5 It occurs in the sand of Ceylon together with the Sapphire and Ruby ; but more abundantly and of larger size in Brazil, accompanied by the Diamond, and im- bedded in that peculiar conglomerate which has already been described in our account of the last mentioned gem. The colour, the high lustre, and the ex- * It is by no means certain however, that the subject of this analysis was a Brazilian Chrysoberyl. 4 94 CHRYSOBERYL. quisite polish which the Chrysoberjl is capable of receiving, enables it almost to sustain a competition with the yellow Dia- mond. It is, however, a stone very dif- ficult to work, and there is scarcely a lapi- dary capable of doing justice to it. A considerable quantity was imported into this country from Brazil, a year or two ago, the greater part of which were en- tirely spoiled by inferior workmen, and the rest were so ill cut that they remained almost unnoticed and without value. The finest specimens, provided they have suf- ficient depth, should be cut in pavillion facets like the brilliant ; the thinner ones ought to be carefully cut in delicate steps. It has great brilliancy by candle-light, and possesses the very valuable and rare quality of sustaining the rival presence , , TOPAZ. Qi5 of the ■ Diamond without injury. The smaller stones appear to most advantage in circular ear-drops, and set round high coloured gems. The larger specimens form necklaces, and ring stones of ex- quisite beauty either with or without Diamonds. The opalescent Chrysoberyl derives a value in the eyes of the amateur from the very circumstance which dimi- nishes its worth in the estimation of the jeweller; it has often a very good colour, and when cut en cahochon as a ring stone, is exceedingly beautiful. This fine gem may be said to be coming into great repute, and in all probability will soon rank very high in estimation among the first circles of fashion. Topaz. There are three varieties of this gem 96 TOPAZ. known in jewellery ; all of them from Brazil, and requiring to be separately de- scribed : they are distinguished by their colours into yellow, blue, and white. The colour of the yellow Topaz is wine yellow, of different degrees of intensity, and the fuller this is, provided it remains bright at the same time, the more the stone is esteemed : by exposure to a gentle heat the colour passes into pink or pale crimson ; this however is rather a hazard- ous experiment, as Topaz is very liable to crack and flaw by the action of fire. Some rare varieties are naturally of a pink colour, and these are commonly known by the name of Brazilian Rubies. It occurs in rolled pieces, but generally crystallized in the form of a compressed rhomboidal prism, terminated by tetra- TOPAZ. 97 hedral pyramids variously modified. The sides of the prism in those parts adjacent to the obtuse angles are for the most part perfectly smooth, while those adjacent to the acute angles are deeply striated so as to be very sensibly curvilinear. It is rare to meet with a prism regularly terminated at each extremity, one end being generally implanted in the matrix. In size it varies, from very small to a considerable bulk; the largest specimen upon record is in the Museum of Natural History at Paris, its weight being about four ounces and a quarter : its cross fracture is perfectly foliated but its longitudinal fracture is small and imperfectly conchoidal; its in- ternal lustre is vitreous and of great bril- liancy ; when free from flaws it is usually transparent and doubly refractive. Its H 98 TOPAZ. hardness is superior to that of quartz, but it yields a httle to the file. Its specific gravity as ascertained on a pohshed speci- men of great beauty, and of the weight of above 160 grains is 3.53. When warmed it becomes positively electric at one extremity, and negatively at the other. Before the blowpipe it is infusible, and is composed, according to an analysis by Vauquehn, of 50 . Alumine 29 . Silex 19 . Fluoric Acid 98. This gem is obtained from the neigh- bourhood of Villa Rica in Brazil, where it occurs in small veins of a talcose mat- ter together with rock crystal and specular TOPAZ. 99 iron ore. The flawed and bad specimens are perhaps a thousand times more nume- rous than the good ones, and the mer- chantable produce of the mines is sensi- bly diminishing ; on which account good stones are rising in value. The searching for Topazes and bringing them into a state fit for sale, employs a considerable num- ber of men ; after being cleared from the adhering foreign substances and other impurities they are transmitted to Rio de Janeiro, where they are disposed of to the lapidaries. There are few gems such universal fa- vourites as the yellow Topaz when perfect ; the rich warm tone of its colour, the viva- city of its lustre, which it retains even by the side of the Diamond, and its large H 2 ►^ .,*-■*..:: ;-..*:Jf, I 100 TOPAZ. size when compared with many other of the precious stones, are characters which very deservedly entitle it to distinction ; it bears accordingly a high price when of prime quality. It is chiefly employed for necklaces, ear- drops, bracelets, and broaches. No little skill and taste is required in cutting and duly proportioning this gem ; the table should be perfectly symmetrical and not too large ; the bizel of sufficient breadth, and the under side should be formed in delicate steps, and not in pavillion facets. It works easily on the mill, and the lapida- ries are in general tolerably well acquaint- ed with it, yet it is by no means common to meet with one that is entirely well cut. Perhaps the most perfect stone in the king- TOPAZ. 101 dom for size, for colour, and for fineness of workmanship is that represented in the frontispiece of this work. The blue Topaz, or Brazilian Sapphire of some authors, although known to and described by Rome de Lisle, was confined to the cabinets of the curious till the re- turn of the author of this book from Bra- zil, who, having had the good fortuife to acquire some very fine specimens of this variety, brought them with him to Eng- land ; where he is happy to say, they have obtained the most illustrious patronage. Its specific gravity as deduced from a large and very fine polished specimen is 3.6,* * Hence it may readily be distinguished, even when cut, from the blue aquamarine, the specific gravity of ■i'*',''rt' 102 TOPAZ. therefore somewhat exceeding that of the preceding variety. In its crystalline form and other physical and chemical characters it presents little if any peculiarity ; its locality, however^ is totally distinct from that of the yellow Topaz, since it occurs, together with the Chr3^soberyl, in that conglomerate which we have already men- tioned as the repository of the Diamond. It is as yet very rare, and in size is found to vary from one or two carats to three ounces fend upwards. The largest and most per- fect specimen that has ever been met with is in the possession of the author : it is with- out flaw or imperfection of any kind, and which does not exceed 2.7. and of which the lustre is also of course inferior. TOPAZ. 103 its weight after having being cut and polished is an ounce and a quarter ; a portrait of it may be seen in the frontispiece of this work. To display this stone to the greatest advan- tage, the utmost skill of the lapidary is re- quired, several of mine having been entirely spoiled by the common mode of cutting. It requires the greatest exactness of proportion; the table should be rather small, the bizel deep, and the under part from the girdle to the collet graduated into fine and delicate steps with equi-distant ribs : it then reflects a full celestial blue colour throughout the stone, more especially round the girdle. I am of opinion that rose cutting, though seldom practised, would perhaps have a good effect, especially in small specimens of this gem. Sometimes the tint is so dilute as to re- 104 TOPAZ. quire the assistance of foil; and this is one of those cases that afford an opportunity to the jeweller of exhibiting his taste and dexterity to the greatest advantage. He will not by the use of a coarse deep co- loured foil give an entirely foreign and ad- ventitious hue, but will employ all his resources in suiting the colour to the na- tural tinge of the stone ; and, faithful to the leading principle on these occasions, of obtruding his art as little as possible, will err, if he errs at all, rather in defect than in excess. The white Topaz is perfectly colourless. It is in considerable estimation in Brazil, where it is known by the name of minas novas. It occurs generally of small size, and is employed in circular ear-rings, or for the purpose of being set round yellow ■1^ TOPAZ. 105 Topazes. Its lustre considerably exceeds that of rock crystal, and the most ad- vantageous way of cutting it is as a brilli- ant with a small table ; in which case it should be set open. Topazes are found in several other parts of the world besides Brazil ; many come from New Holland and Siberia, of which the best are the colourless ones ; the others are of a greenish yellow tinge, and mostly pale. Saxony also furnishes Topazes of a pale straw yellow. Pale greenish ones of considerable size have recently been found in the Highlands of Scotland, and small colourless ones at St. Michael's Mount in Cornwall. But all these, how- ever interesting they may be to the mine- ralogist, are of little or no value in the finer kinds of jewellery. A nobleman of 106 TOPAZ. H Scotland may prefer having his arms en- graven on Scottish Topaz, or a Cornish lady may think a necklace of Topazes from St. Michael's Mount a very appropriate orna- ment ; but independently of these national and local attachments there can be no ques- tion that the Topazes of Brazil in intrinsic beauty and impartial estimation are infi- nitely superior to those of every other country. CHRYSOLITE. 107 CHAP. IV. CHRYSOLITE — AQUAMARINE TOURMA- LINE — HYACINTH, AND JARGOON. ho many different substances have been called by the name of Chrysolite, by la* pidaries and even by mineralogists, that much confusion has hence arisen. Not only the Chrysoberyl, but the greenish yel" low varieties both of Topaz, of Sapphire, and of Aquamarine, and even of Apatit and Idocrase^ have in popular or scientific language borne the name of Chrysolite. The real Chrysolite however, or Peridot, to be described in the present article, is 108 CHRYSOLITE. the only mineral possessed of all the fol- ]owrDg characters. Its colour is a mixture of blue and yel- low, in which the latter generally prepon- derates, producing a greenish yellow ; some- times however, the colour is grass green, and even bluish green, mixed more or less with brown. It is usually met with in angular and rolled pieces, rarely crystal- lized ; its regular form is an eight, ten, or twelve sided prism, variously terminated at the extremities, and often compressed so as to become almost tabular. Its fracture is conchoidal with a brilliant vitreous lustre : it is transparent and doubly refractive in a high degree : in hardness it is not greatly superior to glass : its specific gravity is 3.4 Before the blowpipe it is infusible with- t^m-'- CHRYSOLITE. 109 out addition. It is composed, according to Vauquelin, of 50 . 5 Magnesia 38 . Silex 9 . 5 Oxide of Iron 98.0 It comes to us from the Levant, and is said to be found in Upper Egypt, but of its geological relations we are wholly ignor- ant : although very inferior to the gems already described, being deficient in hard- ness and in play of colour, it is not unfre- quently worked up into necklaces and similar articles ; and when the different stones match well in colour, are carefully cut, and well polished, their effect is upon the whole very good. In order to give the highest polish to this stone, a copper 110 CHRYSOLITE. wheel is used, on v/hich a little sulphuric acid is dropped. A highly suffocating odour is given out during the process, being occasioned no doubt by the oxida- tion of the copper, and the decomposition of the acid ; hence it is probable that the oxide of copper is the true polishing pow- der in this case, and its superiority to the emery and other substances generally employed by the lapidary is owing to its greater softness. It is likely therefore that the most advantageous way of working this soft stone would be to turn it over to the glass cutters. Being too soft for ring stones, it is gene- rally used in jewellery, for necklaces, and ornaments for the hair. The best method of cutting it is in small steps, that it may shew the colour to the greatest advantage. 'P^S'^'""'*" AQUAMARINE. Ill Aquamarine or Beryl. The principal colour of this gem is pale sea green, (whence its name) passing on the one hand into greenish blue, and light sky blue, and on the other into greenish yellow, and wine yellow. Sometimes the same crystal presents two or more colours, and sometimes it is iridescent. Its primi- tive crystalline form is the same as that of the Emerald, which circumstance, toge- ther with the striking analogy exhibited by the analysis of these two substances, has induced some very able modern mine- ralogists to consider them as one and the same species. The Emerald and the Beryl however, differ so materially as gems in the public estimation, that we shall on this account follow the example of Wer- ner, and treat of them as distinct substances. 112 AQUAMARINE. The usual form of the Aquamarine is a prism of six or twelve sides, deeply striated longitudinally, so that it often approaches towards cylindrical ; sometimes a thick prism divides at one extremity into a mul- titude of needleshaped crystals, so as to resemble a painter's brush ; sometimes the crystals are jointed, the upper extremity of each piece being concave and the lower convex ; sometimes a crystal will present the appearance of having been broken across, and afterwards ill mended, the two pieces not being in the same perpendicular, and the place of the fracture being surrounded as it were with a callus. The size of the crystals varies extremely from mere threads to prisms a foot or more in length, and about four inches in thickness ; these latter however are never sufficiently transparent AQUAMARINE. 113 and perfect for the use of the jeweller. Its cross fracture is conchoidal; its longi- tudinal is more or less foliated. Its hard- ness is somewhat superior to that of rock crystal ; and its specific gravity is about 2.7. Its constituent parts, according to an analysis by Vauquelin, are, 68 . Silex. 15 . Alumine. 14 . Glucine. 2 . Lime. 1 . Oxide of Iron. Aquamarine occurs imbedded in graphic granite, also in mineral veins with clay, garnet, fluor spar, and topaz. The best are procured in Brazil, in Siberia, and in Ceylon. It is also found, but of very in- 114 AQUAMARINE. ferior quality, in North America, in France, and in Scotland. Aquamarine, though one of the cheapest of the gems, and the most abundant, is in considerable demand, and is esteemed a fashionable stone. The finest in colour that I ever saw was brought by me from Brazil; it weighed when cut and polished an ounce and a quarter troy. A profile of which may be seen in the frontispiece. Aquamarines occur in general of a suf- ficient size for necklaces, in which form they are usually worn ; they are also used for broaches, and not unfrequently for seal- stones, and intaglios. The large prisms are in esteem among the Turks for handles of stilettos. This gem is a pleasant one for the lapi- AQUAMARINE. 115 dary to work, as it stands cutting and po- lishing vvithoiit risk. Want of lustre, and paleness, and weakness of colour, being the defects to> which it is chiefly subject, it is requ isite that a good stone should have a sufficient depth in proportion to its spread, and that it should be formed with a small table, a high bizel, and with the under part cut into delicate steps. The only substance with which the com- mon Aquamarine is likely to be confounded is the blue Topaz, from which however it is readily distinguished by its inferior spe- cific gravity, and consequently inferior lus- tre. The Beryl*, or greenish yellow variety of Aquamarine is soaietimes mistaken for the Chrysoberyl ; but though resembling * When of a good colour it is best cut in star facets. I 2 116 TOURMALINE. this gem in colour, it is gieatly inferior to it in lustre, hardness, aad specific gra- vity. Tourmaline. The colour of Tourmaliae is green with more or less of a tinge of brown or blue ; hence it passes on one hand into yellowish and reddish brown, hyacinth red, and even crimson red, and on the other hand into indigo blue, sky blue, and violet. The colours are mostly dull and somewhat muddy, and often are so dark as to appear nearly black. It occurs sometimes in rol- led pieces, but generally crystallized. Its primitive form is an obtuse rhomboid, which may be considered as composed of two trihedral pyramids united by their bases. The actual crystals are prisms of three, six, nine, or twelve sides; and the ->*yaakK TOURMALINE. 117 terminal pyramidls scarcely ever correspond to each other ini the number or situation of their faces. It varies greatly in the degree of its tirainsparency ; those speci- mens which pos;sess this quality in the greatest perfectic^n being, as may be sup- posed, best fitted for the use of the jewel- ler. Its hardnesis somewhat exceeds that of quartz. Its specific gravity varies from 3.0 to 3.3. When warmed to a degree not greater than that of boiling water it be- comes electric ; and if in this state a thread of silk tied at the end of a stick of seal- ing-wax be presented to the crystal, the silk will be attracted by one extremity, and repelled by the other. It is fusible before the bllowpipe into a spungy greyish- white enamel. According to the most recent analysis it is composed of from 40 118 TOURMALINE. to 43 per cent, of silex, and nearly the same proportion of alumine ; of about 10 per cent, of soda, and of a variable pro- portion, never exceeding 8 or 9 per cent.) and often much less, of iron, and man- ganese. Tourmaline is found in Granite and other primitive rocks in various parts of the world ; but the most beautiful are imported from Ceylon and Brazil. The yellowish green and Hyacinth brown varieties chiefly come from the former place ; the smoky green and blue varieties from the latter, whence they are often called Brazilian Emeralds and Sapphires. Of these I have had crys- tals in my possession an inch and a half long, and three quarters of an inch in diameter. They are held in considerable estimation in Brazil, being worn in rings JARGOON. 119 chiefly by the dignitaries of the church. In Europe this gem ranks among the less valuable ones, on account of its little lustre and the smoky or muddy tone of its co- lour; yet, when well selected, when cut thin, and set with a suitable foil, it possesses considerable beauty. The red Tourmaline is found in Siberia, Ava, and Ceylon, and when free from flaws is a very fine stone. The most splendid specimen of this variety is in the Greville collection at the British Museum: it was presented to Col. Symes by the king of Ava, and is valued at £1000 sterling. Jargoon. The colour of Jargoon is grey with tinges of green, blue, red, and yellow, of various degrees of intensity ; but generally smoky 120 JARGOON. and ill defined. It usually occurs in worn angular pieces, or in small detached crys- tals,* either octohedral, which is the pri- mitive form, or with a four sided prism- interposed between the terminal pyramids.' The surface of the crystals is smooth and brightly shining, approaching nearer to the lustre of the Diamond than any other gem. Its fracture is conchoidal. It is doubly refractive, but seldom perfectly transparent. Its hardness is somewhat su- perior to that of quartz. Its specific gravity varies from 4.3. to 4.6. On ex- posure to the blowpipe it loses its colour, but is infusible. Its component parts, according to Vauquelin, are, * Rarely exceeding six or eight carats. JARGOON. 66 . Zircon. 31 . Silex. 2 . Oxide of Iron. 121 99 It occurs chiefly in the sand of a river in Ceylon, accompanied by Sapphire, Spi- nelle, TourmaUne, &c. This gem is a remarkable proof of the caprice of fashion. About a century ago, when it was regarded as an inferior variety of real Diamond, few of the precious stones were in greater request, especially for mourtting ornaments, for which the dark tone of its colour combined with its almost adamantine lustre was supposed peculiarly appropriate. At present it is entirely dis- carded and bears no price in the market, nor any place in the public esteem. 122 HYACINTH. Hyacinth diiFers from Jargoon merely in colour. It is of a red orange passing into poppy colour ; and when bright and free from flaws is a very superb ring-stone. It is of rare occurrence however in modern jewellery : the largest pieces are sometimes employed as seal stones. OPAL. 123 CHAP. V. opal amethyst rock crystal garnet— adularia—labrador spar — cat's eye. A HE colour of Opal is milk white or pearl gr tion, Syrian Garnets, as if they came from Syria. The real native country, however, of any particular lot of Garnets, after it has passed through a few hands, can sel- dom be known, and hence, the merchants are in the habit of naming them Sirian, Bohemian, or Ceylonese, rather from their relative value and fineness, than from the 140 GARNET. country from which they are supposed to come. The Sirian Garnet is the most esteemed. Its colour is a violet purple, which in some rare specimens, enables it to enter into competition with the finest Oriental Ame- thyst ; it is also distinguished from all the other varieties of Garnet, in preserving its colour, unmixed with the black tinge that generally obscures this gem, even when of considerable thickness, and unassisted by foil. It is a disadvantage to this stone that it loses much of its beauty by candle light, as it then acquires an orange tinge, and may thus be discriminated from the real Oriental Amethyst. The Bohemian Garnet is generally of a dull poppy red, and when held between GARNET. 141 the eye and the light, a hyacinth orange tinge is very discernible. In proportion as this latter colour prevails, the value of the stone is deteriorated. When, on the con- trary, the colour of the stone is a full crim- son red, it is called fire Garnet, or Pyrope ; its value is considerable, and when perfect, and of a large size, is excessively rare, and proportionably esteemed. The best way of cutting the Pyrope is en cabochon, with a row or two of small facets, round the girdle of the stone, PL 2, Fig. 11. When cut in steps, the colour appears more or less black, but when en cabochon, the point on which the light falls, displays a brilliant fire red. Garnet is easily worked, and when facet cut, is almost always, on account of the depth of its colour, formed into thin ta- 142 lELSPAR. bles, which are not unfrequently concave, or hollowed out on their under side. Cut stones of this latter description, when skil- fully set with bright silver foil, have often been sold as Rubies. This gem, though common, and perhaps rather unfashionable at present, has much intrinsic beauty. It is made up into rings, ear-drops and neck- laces. A set of fine Garnets, was consi- dered a hundred years ago, as a very mag- nificent ornament for ladies of the highest rank. Felspar. Several varieties of this mineral are used in jewellery, but all of them are indebted for this distinction, to their mutable re- flection of light, or in one word, to their being chatoyant. The purest form of Felspar, is Adula- FELSPAR. 143 ria, the colour of which is greenish white ; it occurs massive, or crystalhzed, in com- pressed four or six-sided prisms ; it is more or less semi-transparent, with a bright somewhat pearly lustre. Its fracture in one direction, is imperfectly conchoidal, and in the other, is perfectly foliated, with a double rectangular cleavage. Its hard- ness is superior to that of glass, but not equal to that of quartz. Its specific gra- vity is about 2.5. Before the blowpipe, it melts without much difficulty, into a whit- ish glass. Its component parts, according to an analysis, by Vauquelin, are 64. Silex 20. Alumine 2. Lime 14. Potash 100. 144 FELSPAR. It occurs in veins, in primitive moun- tains, particularly in that part of St. Gothard, called Mont Adula, whence its name. Of this substance, the variety called Moonstone, is in considerable estimation, as an ornamental stone; it is characterized by containing bluish white spots, which, when held to the light, present a pearly or silvery play of colour, not unlike that of the moon. The finest specimens come from Ceylon; and the most valued are those, which, when cut in a very low oval, present the silvery spot in the centre of the stone. The softness of this, and of the other varieties of Felspar, compared with the gems and precious stones already men- tioned, is so great, that few lapidaries know how to work it to the best advantage. It FELSPAR. 145 is set in rinses or broaches with small Rubies or Emeralds, with which it forms a beau- tiful contrast. Fine stones of this descrip- tion, are scarce, and are more valued on the Continent than in England. The variety called Sunstone, is an adularia, of a very pale yellowish colour, almost perfectly transparent, when viewed in one direction, but, by reflected light, presenting the appearance of numberless minute golden spangles, dispersed through its substance. This peculiar appearance, which k found in some other varieties of Felspar, and also, sometimes in Quartz, constitutes the essential character of Aven- tiirine, and is merely an accident, occa- sioned either by imperceptible flaws, or by an irregularity in the arrangement of the laminae ; hke other happy accidents, how- % 146 LABRADOR STONE. ii^ k» '\ ever, it confers an additional value on those stones in which it occurs. The Sun- stone comes chiefly from Siberia. Amazon Stone, is a Felspar of a beautiful bluish- green colour, slightly translucent, with a considerable degree of varying lustre ; and when cut properly, forms an aventurine of silvery spangles, in a green base. It comes from the neighbourhood of Lake Baikal, in Siberia, and is sometimes, though rare- ly, of a sufficient size to be fashioned into small vases, and other ornaments. Labrador Stone. This is another variety of Felspar, the proper colour of which, is smoke grey, or dark ash; but besides this fundamental colour, it presents a most beautiful play of vivid tints, varying according to the posi- tion in which it is viewed ; of blue, it ex- LABRADOR STONE. 147 hibits all the varieties from violet to smalt- blue ; of green, it displays the pure eme- rald-green, and various other tinges ap- proaching to blue on one hand, and to yellow on the other : of yellow, the usual shades are gold and lemon yellow, verging into deep orange, and thence into rich cop- per red, and tombac brown. The parts exhibiting these beautiful colours, are dis- posed in irregular spots and patches, and the same spot, if held in different posi- tions, displays various tints. Of these co- lours, the violet and the red are the most rare. The finest specimens of this stone, come from the Coast of Labrador, in blocks of sufficient size for snuff boxes, and simi- lar articles ; it is also used for broaches and necklaces. The true mode of cutting it is in plain very flat cabochon ; and a good l2 148 CAT S EYE. deal of skill is required, in first cutting up the block, so to direct the section, that the iridescent spots on which the whole beauty of the substance depends, may be shewn to the best advantage. Cat's Eye. The principal colour of this mineral, is yellowish, greenish, or ash grey, also yel- lowish brown, hair brown, and hyacinth red, it is found also sometimes olive green, and blackish. It occurs massive, and in roundish pieces ; but is usually brought to Europe, ready cut in high cabochon, in which state, it presents a peiculiar floating light, resembling the eye of the animal from which it takes its name. It is com- monly* more or less translucent, but is sometimes met with perfectly semi-trans- parent ; when broken, it presents a small CAT S EYE. 149 and imperfectly conchoidal fracture, with a shining histre, between vitreous and resinous. In many specimens there may be observed small parallel white fibres, which are sup- posed to be the cause of its peculiar play of light; but the semi-transparent varie- ties, which are equally chatoyant as the more opake ones, offer no such appear- ance. It is as hard as rock crystal, and easily frangible. Its specific gravity is 2.6. By exposure to a strong heat, it loses its lustre and transparency, and in very small fragments is, according to Saussure, fusible, though with difficulty, before the blow- pipe. From two analyses by Klaproth, it appears to contain about 95 per cent, of silex, with minute portions of alumine, lime, and oxide of iron. It comes from Ceylon and the Coast of Malabar, but of 150 CAT S EYIl. its geological situation we are wholly ig- norant. This stone is rarely met with of larger size than a hazle nut, most of the speci- mens being considerably smaller. Of the nearly opake varieties, the red and the almost white, are the most esteemed; but whether opake or semi-transparent, the great merit of the stone depends on its play of colour, which when perfect, and strongly marked, produces a very beauti- ful and striking effect. It is employed as a ring stone, and is in considerable estima- tion. TURQUOIS. 15i CHAP. VI. TURQUOIS LAPIS-LAZULI CHRYSO- PRASE SEMI-OPAL CARNELIAN SARDONYX AGATE — JASPER. TURQUOIS. There are two kinds of Turquois, one a variety of fossil ivory, the other, proba- bly, a peculiar mineral substance. The former (called also Turquoise de ^lou- velle roche,) is of a sky blue colour, passing into greenish-blue and apple-green, often presenting black dendritical delineations, which greatly impair the beauty and value of the substance. The remains of animal organization are visible in its texture, which N 152 TURQUOIS. presents slender fibres of a lighter tinge than the rest of the mass, either parallel, or crossing each other, so as to form a kind of net-work, according as the section has been made parallel to the length or thick- ness of the tusk. Its hardness is somewhat superior to that of glass ; it effervesces slightly with acids, and its specific gravity varies from 3. to 3.5. It appears from analysis, to be bone or ivory, coloured by phosphate of iron. The other kind, called Turquoise de vieille roche, although nearly resembling the for- mer in colour, may be readily distinguished by the following characters : — Its texture is perfectly even and uniform ; its specific gravity varies from 2. to 2.5 : it does not effervesce with acids. It is composed, ac- TURQUOIS. 153 cording to Descotils, chiefly of alumine, coloured by phosphate of copper. In commerce, however, the two varie- ties of Turquois, are for the most part, con- founded together, the distinction of orien- tal and occidental, in this, as in many other analogous cases, serving only to dis- criminate the finest from the inferior spe- cimens, without any reference to the real or supposed place of their origin, or the difi'erence in their chemical composition. The most valued kinds of Turquois, come from Persia, but the best specimens rarely reach Europe, being eagerly bought up by the Grandees of Persia, and of the adjacent Mahometan states, among whom, it is held in higher estimation than it en- joys in Europe. Destitute as the Turquois is, of the lustre that characterizes the real 154 TURQUOIS. gems, and of the variable tints which so agreeably distinguish most of the other precious stones, being likewise opake, and not admitting of a very high polish, there is nothing but the agreeable tone of its colour which can recommend this sub- stance to the notice of the jeweller. The latter character, however, it possesses in no inconsiderable degree, especially by can- dle-hghl. Being at present in fashion, the demand for this stone is considerably greater than the supply ; on which account, imitations of it in paste, are very frequent. In these false stones, the colour is given very correctly, but the vitreous gloss and lustre is much higher than that which characterizes the real stone ; and usually minute conchoidal fractures appear in the girdle, where it is LAPIS LAZULI. 155 rough, in order to receive the setting, that afford a certain mark of discrimination. Turquois is cut in low cabochon, and is employed for rings and ear-drops ; it is frequently surrounded with Diamonds, and contrasts agreeably with gold. In Turkey and Persia, it is used principally as a ring stone, and to adorn the handles of stil- lettos. Lapis Lazuli. The colour of this mineral is Prussian blue, smalt blue, or sky blue ; it occurs in mass, never having been found crystallized ; it is usually translucent on the edges ; is harder than glass, but may be scratched by quartz ; its specific gravity varies from 2.7 to 2.9, probably on account of the py- rites with which it is more or less mixed. When broken, it exhibits a fine grained un- m f 156 LAPIS LAZULI. even fracture, and a faintly glimmering lustre. When pulverized, it effervesces slightly with acids ; when calcined, and afterwards digested in acids, it becomes gelatinous. The intense heat of the blow-pipe causes it to melt into a whitish enamel ; but its colour is not affected by a low red heat. The colouring matter of this stone, when extracted, by a process not necessary to be mentioned in this place, forms that beautiful and durable, but expensive pig- ment, called ultramarine. It is found in Siberia, near the Lake Baikal ; also in Persia, in Chinese Tartary, and in the island Hainan, in the Chinese sea. It generally occurs mixed with Fel- spar, Quartz, and grains of Iron Pyrites, CHRYSOPRASE. 157 which last substance was formerly mistaken for specks and spangles of native gold. The beauty of its colour has introduced this stone into jewellery, notwithstanding its want of lustre, and incapability of re- ceiving a very exquisite polish. It is usu- ally made up into broaches, being very rarely employed as a seal stone, on account of its comparative softness. Chrysoprase. The colour of this mineral is apple- green, passing into grass and olive green, and greenish white. It is found massive and in thick plates, but never crystallized. Its hardness is a little inferior to that of quartz. When broken, it exhibits an even or fine splintery, or flat conchoidal fracture, with a slight degree of lustre. Its specific gravity is 3.25. 158 CHRYSOPRASE. 'I Before tlie blow-pipe, it is infusible, but loses its colour. It has been analyzed with great care by Klaproth, and appears to be composed of 96 . 16 Silex . 83 Lime 1 . 00 Oxide of Nickel 97.99 It passes into Hornstone and Chalcedo- ny, and, in fact, seems to differ from this latter, in little else than colour. When kept long in a warm and dry si- tuation, it is apt iu lose the greatest part of its colour. It has hitherto been found only at Ko- semiitz, in Lower Silesia, imbedded in ser- pentine, and accompanied by Quartz, Opal, and Chalcedony. CHRYSOPRASE. 159 As an article of jewellery, it is in but little estimation in this country, though it holds a high rank on the continent. The Kings of Prussia, in whose territory the mine of this substance is situated, allow it to be opened only once in three years, and monopolize most of the finest specimens that are procured. Pieces for ring stones, when semi-transparent, and of a very deli- cate apple-green colour, will sell at Berlin or Vienna, for ten or twenty guineas. It is worn both in rings and in broaches, being sometimes set with brilliants, but oftener with pearls. The best way of cut- ting it is en cabochon ; when facet-cut, as is sometimes the case, it is entirely ruined. It is seen to the most advantage by candle- light, and when well made up, is very beautiful. Ill 160 CHALCEDONY. ■r ll CHALCEDONY CARNELIAN — SARDE. The usual colour of Chalcedony is milk- white, tending more or less, to smalt blue : the latter varieties are the rarest, and the most esteemed, and are called by the French lapidaries, Sapphirine. It is more or less semi-transparent, and often exhibits concentric bands or stripes. Its hardness is about equal to that of Quartz, and it is not very easily broken ; the fractured sur- face is even, passing into finely splintery and flat conchoida], with little or no lustre. Its specific gravity is 2.6. Before the blow- pipe, it is infusible, but becomes of a dead opake white colour. It occurs in cluster- ed, stalactitic, and mammillated masses ; also in veins, and in balls, called G codes, composed of concentric laminae. It was anciently procured from the neighbourhood I CHALCEDONY. 161 of Chalcedon, in Lesser Asia, whence its name; at present it is procured from vari- ous parts of India and Arabia, from Hun- gary and Saxony, from different places in Scotland, from the Ferroe and Shetland Islands, from Iceland, &c. Chalcedony is capable of an exquisite polish, and from its hardness and tough- ness, is an excellent material to engrave upon ; hence it is made into broaches and various other elegant and ornamental ar- ticles : those varieties are preferred by the engraver, the tint of which is perfectly uni- form, and uninterrupted by zones and other accidents ; these latter being most suited to broaches, small vases, and similar works. Those Chalcedonies that contain arbo- rescent crystallizations of iron, or of manga* M 162 CARNELIAK. i( t. nese, are called Mocho Stones, and when fine, bear a hio^h price; they are used chiefly for broaches and ring stones. Many of the Chalcedonies, especially the oriental ones, have a yellowish, instead of a bluish colour; these are known in the market, by the name of White Came- Hans. From the white Carnelian to the red, the gradation is quite insensible, through va- rious tints of yellow, to orange, flesh red, and blood red, mixed more or less with brown. The most esteemed Carnelians are of a perfectly uniform tinge, without any undulations, and free from that muddiness of tint to which the European specimens of this beautiful stone are so peculiarly lia* ble. The finest pieces are brought from Ara- bia^ and from Cam bay and Surat, in India. SAHDE. 163 The bright colour and high polish of Car- nclian, have rendered it both in ancient and modern times, the favourite substance for necklaces, broaches, seal stones and ring stones ; many of the Cameos exhibit- ing the most exquisite efforts of ancienl art, are cut in this stone. It is difficidt to draw the line of dis- tinction between Carnelian and Sarde ; the lattt^r, however, when in its greatest perfection, is of a full rich brown, tending more or less to orange or yellow, and when held between the eye and the light, exhi- bits a deep ruby-red colour. The Sarde is procured from the shores of the Red Sea, but is extremely rare, when compared with Carnelian, and bears a much higher price. Both Chalcedonies and Carnelians fre- u 2 164 AGATE. quently exhibit two or more colours, ar- ranged in bands, or concentric laminae. These varieties are called Agates; there are also other Agates, consisting of frag- ments of Jasper, of Heliotrope, of Car- nelian, &c. cemented by a paste of Chal- cedony ; these are called ruin Agates, or brecciated Agates. To the first class, be- long those beautiful glandular concretions, commonly called Scotch Pebbles, Avhich occur abundantly in the amygdaloidal rock of Dunbar, and of the hill of Kin^ nouj, near Perth. Every body has seen and admired their concentric zones, of de- licate colour and exquisite polish, in the form of broaches, necklaces and ear drops. Those coucentric Agates, the zones of which are very distinct, and present strong- ly contrasting colours, go by the general JASPER. 165 name of Oni/.v, and when of sufficient size for Cameos, they bear a high price. Those with alternate bands of green and white, and red and white, are in great estimation ; but the rarest, the most beautiful, and the most valued of all, is the true Sardonyx, in which plates of Sarde alternate with others of nearly opake white Carnelian. Jasper. Jasper is clay more or less ferruginousp penetrated and indurated by Chalcedony or Quartz. It occurs, like Chalcedony, in veins and concentric nodules ; it is hard, compact, and takes an exquisite polish. True Jasper is perfectly opake, but speci- mens not unfrequently occur, in which fragments of Jasper are imbedded in and cemented by Chalcedony ; such are usually known by the name of Jasper Agates. 166 JASPER. Jasper presents ap infinite diversity of co- lour, red, yellow, green, &c. sometimes only one colour is visible, but often two or more are combined in the same specimen, in bands, stripes, dots, clouds and flames. The striped green and brown Jasper of Siberia, possesses great beauty, but for jeweller's trinkets, and personal ornaments, the Egyptian Jasper or Pebble, as it is generally called, is, upon the whole, the most appropriate. Its colours are wood-brown, of various degrees, beauti- fully and faacifuliy intermixed with and contrasted by other portions of a fine cream colour, producing a striking effect, when well set, as broaches or necklaces. THE END. J, G. BARNARD, Itkinntr-street, London, mmm ri.2. n /o^yoy^r T-c^'CT-CT^ laMtOu^Qai 77. .V Diainortd Z31 ]CD^ r i ■■ 1' '1 ■ ■ RkIw 1 i IH 1 1 1 ■ 1 r S(t/>/>li I'rr ■ i'>ri called Oriental. AQUAMARINE. 3 Common. AMETHYST Brazilian. Of a large siz;e, and of a most perfect violet tint. Common... Of various shades and party-coloured. Euclase. Jargoon. Hyacinth. Tourmaline, Green, blue, and red. Peridot, or Common Chrysolite ; Garnet, precious and common; Turquois ; Opal, various; Chrtsoprase ; Rock Crystal, inclosing needles of Titanium, and other or- namental varieties ; TopAziNE, or fine yellow Crystal; Cairn-Gouram of different shades. Cat's Eye ; Adularia; Moon-stone; Amazon ditto. Jaspers, various, green, red, and yellow; Blood-stone; Ribbon Jasper, Egyptian Pebble. Sardonyx ; Onyx ; Carnelian ; Agates, various; Chal- cedony; Beautiful Malachites, and choice Pieces of Labrador ; with a great variety of other fancy Stones. precious stones cut in a superior mannner, on scientific prin- ciples, according to their dimensions and shades of colour. Portable collections of Minerals, and eveiy variety of Mineral Productions. In consequence of his having formerly visited India ; and latterly, having been engaged in a professional inspection of the Mines in the Brazil, under the sanction of his Royal Highness the Prince Regent of Portugal ; Mr. MA WE flatters himself that he has been able to form connexions by means of which the finest productions of those rich countries will be transmitted to him ; the whole of which will be sold on the most reasonable terms. PRECIOUS STONES VALUED. -^■ SI H n>^ f ; GETTY CENTER LIBRARY i\lAU (•. £>isni b M »:-. i:s