The Post- Express. THE ONLY 2-CENT PAPER IN ROCHESTER. Scientific; ai?d Reliable BooK- The Post-Express. ALL THE NEWS. TWO CTS. SUBSCRIBE FOR IT. SIBLEY, LINDSAY & C1R, IMPORTERS, JOBBERS AND RETAILERS OF DRY GOODS MIUUINERY, FANCY GOODS, UPHOLSTERING GOODS, — AND— GENTS' FURNISHING GOODS East Main, North St. Paul and Division Sts., ROCHESTER, N. Y. The above is the largest, best lighted and appointed Dry Goods House in Western New York, and has the largest business in Monroe County. Offices : 120 franklin st., 66 faulkner st., NEW YORK CITY. MANCHESTER. ENG. 35 THEATERSTR, CHEMNITZ. 2 RUE De UZES, PARIS. SCIENTIFIC and RELIABLE COLORING >nd CLEANSING BOOK. For Family Use. ' BY BENJAMIN BENSON AND N. BENSON, PRACTICAL DYERS. Containing 240 Reliable Instructions for Coloring and Cleansing Silks, Woolens, Cottons, and Feathers of all Descriptions and Colors. AND Bleaching Lace or Plain Curtains. COPYEIGrHTED. Rochester, N. Y., ERNEST HART, PRINTER, 20 STATE STREET, 1879. 4 SCIENTIFIC AND RELIABLE for anyone to learn that whattliey have been paying their dyer $1.50 or $2 for can be done quite as well at home at an ac- tual expenditure of 15 to 20 cents. Of course, in the present universal practice of economy one cannot afford to overlook such leakages from their purse as this. In most places in Europe more than one-half of the color- ing is now done at liome. During our experience there we have pressed many thousand yards of home colored goods, most of which were as well colored as we could do it in any dye house. In this country, however, the people have not been so suc- cessful, owing to the unreliability of the recipes, the original color of the fabrics, or the too strong dyes they have used. In many instances the goods have been sent to the dyer to be done over, mostly black, some of which looked a rusty brown. By using the recipes we here give, all this disap- pointment can be avoided, as nearly every color has to be dyed in a different way. We trust that the book will be found a necessity in very many households, especially in country towns, saving the trouble of sending to a dye-house, and waiting often a month before receiving your goods. We have placed the price within reach of all, and we hope our labor in issuing it will not prove to have been in vain. The Authors. Rochester, 1879. Before Coloring see General Remarks on page 182. CLEANSING AND COLORING BOOK. 5 ||p|0 begin this Work, we will first give some direc- tions for stiffening, drying and pressing all the different kinds of goods ; and also, if dresses are ripped, how to sew them together before putting them into any dye. To Sew up Dresses for Dyeing. If a dress is ripped it is necessary to tack all the pieces together while dyeing. First, sew all the larger pieces to- gether as near like a new piece as possible, then sew all the smaller pieces on to the one edge, not in bunches, but scat- ter them along singly, while you keep the other edge clear to handle it by while in the dye. To Hang Goods to Dry. To dry a coat or vest, get a stick about three feet long, bow shaped ; tie a string to the center, put one end into each sleeve so that the string will be about the center seam of the collar, then tie the string to a clothes-line, or somewhere where it will hang free until dry. For pants, tie two small strings to the clothes-line, about a foot and a half apart, tie one of the side buttons to each string ; if they are cleaned or light colored pants they should be hung wrong side out while drying. To dry dresses, hang them along the clothes- line by the upper edge, and fasten them with clothes-pins, so that the small pieces will be at the lower edge, and a dress will never be wrinkled. If a dress has been colored whole, it is best to hang them on the bow-shaped sticks, the same as a coat. To dry shawls, it is best to hang them across the line ; if it has a wrong side, hang that inside, as the line will always leave a mark on the shawl. A table or piano cover, blanket or carpet, may be dried the same way. No light colors should be dried in the hot sun. 6 SCIENTIFIC AND RELIABLE To Size or Stiffen Dyed or Cleaned Goods. All woolen, or wool and cotton dress goods should be stiffen- ed with glue in the following way: Take to each dress about one ounce of glue, boil it in one quart of water until it is all dissolved ; when this is done, strain it through a thin cotton cloth into cold water, just enough to wet the goods in ; stir it up well, soak the goods into it and handle around until you are sure they are even, take them out and shake them well, and hang them to dry (see instructions for drying dresses, page 5), and when dry they are ready for pressing. To Size or Stiffen Silks, and Finishing all Colors Excepting Blacks. One ounce of Irish moss, boiled ten minu tes in one quart of water and strained into half a pail of cold water, will size any silk dress, or ribbons in proportion ; wet thoroughly, then squeeze them gently to get the most of the sizing out, then put them on a smooth board, right side out, and smooth them out with a soft brash. Be careful to have all the small wrin- kles out, and do not brush them too hard ; leave the board near a hot stove in winter, or out-doors in summer, but not in the hot sun. When dry they are done. To Press Gentlemen's Clothing or Ladies' Sacks. Press the inside first with not too hot flat iron ; for pressing the outside, take a cotton cloth, dip it in water, and wring it out with your hands, shake it and spread it on that part of the garment you intend to press first, use a hotter iron and CLEANSING AND COLORING BOOK. 7 press on the cloth all the time ; never let the bare iron touch the goods, as it will always leave marks. When the press- cloth gets dry, wet and wring it again. To Press Ladies Dress Goods. These goods should be pressed only on the wrong side ; for dark colors you may use pretty hot irons, but for light colors do not have them too hot, as many colors will not stand the heat. To Press Shawls or Table and Piano Covers. Fold the shawl once, if double fold it lengthways, right side out, or take them just as they hang on the line and spread them on your table or board, use a dry cotton cloth between the iron and the shawl, as the bare iron will always leave marks on the shawl ; use pretty hot irons for dark colors, but not too hot for light colors. Piano or table covers .may be pressed in the same way, but if you prefer not to have the folding marks on them, then press single. To Dry and Curl Feathers. You can dry feathers the best by a hot stove ; you can dry from one to five at once ; hold them as you usually do, by the heavy end of the stem, shake them over the hot stove until dry, clasp them between your hands every one or two minutes while drying, and when dry, curl them in the fol- lowing way : Take a dull knife, or use the handle of a tea- spoon, take hold of five or six limbs with the knife and your thumb close to the stem, draw the knife gently along the 8 SCIENTIFIC AND EELIABLE limbs until they curl, and go on in this way until you have them all curled ; then take a little sugar and spread it on some hot coal or fire, shake the feathers over that while it burns, and they are done. To Make and Use a Preparation to Take Out Paint. Take benzine and water equal parts ; in one-half pint put in four ounces ammonia and four ounces sal-soda, let it stand a few hours, shake it a few times during that time, and it is ready for use ; keep it well corked. Do not let any paint dry in your garments, but take it out as soon as you can, as it will come out much easier before it gets dried in. For taking out paint, shake the bottle well before using, pour on the spot just enough to wet it, rub it between your thumb- nails and repeat until out. To Take Out Tar or Axle Grease. Rub butter on the spot, and rub it between your thumb- nails, and repeat until out. It will come out easier if rubbed before it gets dry. To Finish Velvet and Plush. One ounce of Irish moss, one quart of water boiled ten minutes ; apply on the wrong side with a sponge, aud dry it over a hot fire ; brush it with a soft brush on the right side. To Dissolve Nicholson Blue. One ounce of Nicholson Blue, one pint water ; boil five minutes. ASK FOR THE CELEBRATED b. m. a. BREAD AND CRACKERS. G-IA7"E THEM _A_ TBIAL AND YOU WILL USE NO OTHERS MANUFACTURER, AND WHOLESALE AND RETAIL DEALER IN HARD AND SOFT WOOD LUMBER, FLOORING, CEILING, SHINGLES, LATH, Etc. CONSTANTLY IN STOCK THE FOLLOWING KINDS OF Walnut, Chestnut, Butternut, White Ash, Hemlock, Cherry, Pine, Elm, Sycamore, qrd., Red Cedar, White Wood, Bass wood, Hickory, Maple, Oak, quartered. BILLS OF ALL KINDS SAWED TO ORDER. Planing Mill and Yards : Goodman Street, cor. Anderson Ave,, East of University. CITY OFFICE, 109 3? 0"W ZEISS' BTTIIiDING-. Makers of Fancy Flours: ''FIRST PRIZE." "SUCCESS." ' IMPERIAL. 1 ' "CROWN PASTRY." IW^ ALL BRANDS GUARANTEED TO GIVE SATISFACTION. ROCHESTER, Y. TIN, SHEET IRON AND COPPER WORK, —ALSO— JOB PLUMBING and FURNACE WORK DONE IN PERFECT ORDER, BY THOMAS DALY, 2 Beacon Street, Collyer's Block:, Corner University Ave. For STAPLE and FANCY GROCERIES GO TO Nos. 306 and 308 UNIVERSITY AVENUE. A FULL SUPPLY OF Foreign and Domestic Fpuits, Brunswick Soups Houchins Chicken, Ox Tail, Fish, Kidney, Tomato, Beef and Mock Turtle Soups. l}oicest Dairy Butter and i\)e presses! of Ec]C)S IMPORTED AND DOMESTIC SARDINES, BEST BRANDS OF Canned Lobster, Salmon & Mackerel, Potted Chicken, Ham and Tongue, Canned Roast and Corned Beef. All our goods are fresh and warranted first quality. Jgft AGENTS FOR THE W ORLD-K ENOWNKI) A LI) EC N FRUIT VINEGAR. WE HAVE THE EXCLUSIVE AGENCY FOR THE CELEBRATED D. M. A. BREAD AND CRACKERS. TRY THEM AND YOU WILL USE NO OTHER We recommend Henkle's Baking Powder as the purest, best and most satisfactory of any in the market. THOSE WHO LIKE TRDE YANILLA and OTHER FLAVORS ARE REQUESTED TO TRY THE EXTRACTS MADE BY E. G. BOUGHTOJM, PITTSFORD, N. Y. THEY ARE GENUINE AND GOOD VALUE. CRITICAL CONSUMERS SOLICITED. PACKED WITH EACH VIAL ARE SAMPLES OF PERFUMES and SACHET POWDERS. Call for these extracts at your grocers. If they do not have them, I will send 2-oz. Bottle by mail, post paid, FOR 25 Cents. E. G. BOUGHTON, PITTSFORD, N. Y. CLEANSING AND COLORING BOOK. 9 To Dissolve Violet Aniline. One ounce of violet aniline, one pint of water ; boil ten minutes. To Dissolve Red Aniline. One ounce of red aniline, half-pint alcohol ; keep it on blood heat ten minutes. To Boil off Silks for Coloring. One pail water, half pound of sal-soda ; four ounces of soap ; cut up in shavings ; boil to dissolve. Put in your silks and boil ten minutes ; Rinse in one warm and one cold water, and they are ready for dyeing. To Clean Woolen Goods for Dyeing. (ladies' weak.) Dissolve one and one-half pounds of sal-soda in five pails of water, as hot as your hands can bear it ; then look your goods over to see if paint or tar is on them, if so, see page 8, how to take it out. Then handle your goods one by one; handle them well for ten or fifteen minutes ; look them over again, and if you see any greasy spots, rub them with your hands well in the soda ; then take them out, cool them, and rinse in two clean cold waters ; then they are ready to be dyed any color. 10 SCIENTIFIC AND RELIABLE To Clean Clothing for Dyeing — Gentlemen's Wear or Ladies' Sacques. Dissolve one pound of sal-soda in five pails of hand-warmed water. (To take out paint and tar first, if any, see page 8.) Then rip the back seams of lining of coat, about two inches each seam, to prevent air from keeping it over water, then lay it on a board or table, dip a scrubbing brush in the soda and scrub well round the collar, lapels and sleeves, and other soiled places ; then put them in the soda and handle well for ten minutes ; take them out and hang straight to drain for a few minutes ; then rinse them in two clean cold waters, and they are ready for dyeing. THE ART OF CLEANSING AND SCOURING. To Clean Black and Brown Coats, Pants, Vests and Ladies' Sacques. If they are soiled with paint or tar, take them out first (see page 8), then take out the worse grease spots in the follow- ing manner : Dissolve eight ounces of sal-soda in a pail of hot water, pour one-third of this into a wash-tub, and add two or three pails of summer warm water ; let the two parts remain in the pail for scrubbing ; now spread the garment on a table or board, w^et the grease spots and rub them over with a piece of sal-soda, then take a hard brush and dip it in the hot soda in the pail, and brush the spots quite hard ; then put the garment into the soda in the tub to soak for 10 or 15 minutes, while you take the spots out of the next one, CLEANSING AND COLORING BOOK. 11 then take it out and spread it on the table again and brush it all over on both sides, outside first ; be careful to brush the coat well on the collar, lapels and sleeves, and around the pockets, as those places are always most soiled ; dip your brush in the soda when it gets too dry, so that it will have plenty of water in it all the time ; take long strokes with the brush, as this is better for the goods ; when this is done, give the goods two cold waters to rinse the soda out of them ; then the coats are ready ; then take a handfull of salt and stir it up in a pail of cold water, put the pants and vest in- to that, and keep it in five minutes, take them out and hang them all up to dry. This salt is to prevent the black from running on the white lining, (see pages 5 and 6 for dry- ing and pressing. To Clean Brown and Black Shawls and Dresses. First take out the paint and tar, if any, (see page 8), then see if there are grease spots ; if any, rub them over with a piece of sal-soda, dip your brush in hot water and brush the spots well, and repeat until the spots are out ; then dissolve eight ounces of sal-soda in a pail of hot water, pour one-third of it into two or three pails of summer-warm water, put the goods into that, and let them soak for ten minutes, take them out and brush them all over on both sides. Be sure to keep them smooth on the table, as they will wrinkle very easy while warm. When done brushing give them two clean cold waters, and they are done. (See pages 5, 6 and 7 for stiffening drying and pressing). 12 SCIENTIFIC AND RELIABLE To Dry-Clean Dark Coats, Pants and Vests. First take out all paint and tar spots, if any (see page 8,) then brush the coat collar and other soiled places over with a little hot sal-soda water, then brush the garments all over (on the outside only) with a damp brush, just wet enough to take out the dust. (For drying and pressing see pages 5 and 6). To Clean Light-Colored Coats, Pants and Vests. For one full suit cut up in shavings one pound of good soap, (Moulson's or Babbitt's best, we prefer, for cleaning woolen goods) ; boil the soap- in about two gallons of water until dissolved, then add to it two ounces of sal-soda, pour one-quarter of it into a tub and add about two pails of water, blood warm, pour the rest of the soap into a pail, and fill up with as hot water as your hand will bear it. Now see if there are any spots on the goods ; if there are paint or tar spots take them out first (see page 8), put the goods into the soap in the tub and let them soak about fifteen minutes, then take out one at a time, spread them out on the table and brush them all over (outside first) with your scrubbing-brush, dip- ping it in the soap in the pail to keep the goods well wet all the time. Be careful to brush the coat collar, lapels and sleeves and other parts most soiled well. When you are done brushing squeeze the most of the soap out of them with your hands, then rinse them in one warm water and one CLEANSING AND COLORING BOOK. 13 cold ; then get four pails of summer-warm water, put into it one teaspoonful of oil of vitriol, stir it up well and put the goods into it and handle them well around for about two minutes ; then take them out and give them one clean cold water, and they are done. (For drying and pressing see pages 5 and 6.) Remarks, — If there are ink spots on the goods, take them the day before you intend to clean them, and rub the spots over with a piece of soap, and then put the goods into clean cold water and leave them all night ; in the morning when you intend to clean take and rub the spots well with your hands, then apply more soap and rub until the spots are mostly gone, then clean the goods all over as above, and in drying, hang them with the spots where the sun can get to them if possible. This method is for all aniline inks the most in use ; for logwood ink spots oil of vitriol may be ap- plied as follows : While you have the garment in water, take that part where spots are and lift it just over the water sur- face, hold the goods with your left hand, have a straw in your right hand, dip the straw in oil of vitriol and apply it on the spot ; as soon as the straw has touched the spot let it down under the water and repeat until all the spots are out ; then if the garment has been colored with logwood, as most grey colors are, it will turn the color a yellowish drab, if so, rub the spots over with a piece of sal-soda and it will be re- stored to its original color. N. B. — Apply the oil of vitriol only to the spots. 14 SCIENTIFIC ANE RELIABLE To Clean White, Grey and White and Black Plaid Wool Shawls and Ladies Wool Circulars, Polonaise, Sacques and Dresses of the above Color. Make up two soaps in two tubs, the one pretty strong and good, hand-warm ; the other not so strong, and colder. Dis- solve a small piece of sal-soda in the strongest, then take the shawls first and spread on the table, rub over all the spots, if any, with a piece of soap and dip the scrubbing brush in the strongest soap and brush the spots well, apply more soap and brush until the spots are out ; then take and handwash the shawl through the coldest soap first, then through the strong soap, then squeeze the soap out of it all you can and take it through one hand-warm and one cold water, and hang it to drain ; then take the other goods and take out the spots in the same way as with the shawls, and put them into the coldest soap and let them soak a few minutes, then take and brush them all over, on both sides, outside first squeeze the soap out of them, and put them through the hot and cold waters as you did the shawls ; then have a tub full of clean cold water and another tub or clean boiler with about 4 pails of blood-warm water ; put in the warm water one teaspoonful of oil of vitriol, stir it up well, put the shawls in first and handle them around a minute or two take them out and rinse them through the cold water in the tub ; then take the other goods through the oil of vitriol, and then through the clean water ; then fold the shawls up in a sheet or cotton cloth, one at a time, and put them through a wringer if possible, and hang them to dry (see pages 5 and 7 for drying and pressing shawls) ; fold the other goods wrong side out, wring them, shake them well, and hang them to dry. (See pages 5 and 7 for drying and pressing ladies' dress goods.) CLEANSING AND COLORING BOOK. 15 To Clean Shawls and Blankets, Plaided or Striped with Red, Blue, Green or Yellow. Make up two different soaps in two different tubs, one hike-warm and pretty strong, the other not so strong and nearly cold ; then take and spread the shawl on the table or board and see if there are any spots ; if any, rub them over with a piece of soap, then take your cleanest scrubbing-brush, dip it in the strongest soap, brush the spots over, and rub- bing soap on and brushing until the spots are out ; (if there are paint or tar spots, see page 8 for method of taking them out). When all the spots are out put the shawl into the coldest soap first and give it a good hand- washing, then put it into the stronger soap and give it another hand- wash- ing, squeeze out all the soap you can, then put it through one warm and one cold water, and hang it to drain ; now throw the soap away and rinse out the tubs, fill one with clean cold water and the other with four pails of hand- warm water; put into the warm water two teaspoonsful of oil of vitriol, stir it up well, dip a finger in and taste it ; if it tastes sour, then it is strong enough. Put the goods into it, one piece at a time, handle them around a minute or two, take it out and put it into the clean water in the other tub, then give them another clean water, and they are done ; Fold the shawls up in a sheet or cotton cloth and put them through a wringer (see pages 5 and 7 for drying and pressing shawls). Blankets must not be pressed, but when dry give them a good shaking. 16 SCIENTIFIC AND KELIAELE To Clean Paisley and Brocade Shawls. If there are tar spots T see page 8 to take them out. Prepare two soaps in two different tubs, about two pails in each tub, have one luke-warm and strong, the other nearly cold and not so strong; then take and spread the shawl on a table, wet the center and rub it over with a piece of soap ; then take your cleanest scrubbing-brush, dip it in your strongest soap in the tub, and brush the center well until all soil is re- moved. Then give it a hand-washing in the cold soap for two minutes, then wash it again in the other tub for two minutes more, then squeeze all the soap you can out of it with your hands, and rinse it in one warm and one cold water ; then rinse the soap out of each tub and fill one with clean cold water, and put four pails of hand-warmed water in the other and one tablespoonful of oil of vitriol ; then take the shawl and handle it well for three minutes 7 then take it out and rinse it in the other tub of clean cold water ; give it another cold water and it is done. Then fold it up in a clean sheet or white cotton cloth, and run it through the wringer, then shake it gently and hang it to dry on a clothes- line, with the sheet under it to prevent it being rubbed by the line. (For pressing, see page 7). To Clean Crimson, Maroon, Plum, Wine or Brown Piano Covers and Table Spreads. To take out ink spots, if any, rub them over with a piece of soap, and put the spread into cold water to soak for twelve hours, then take it out and rub the spots with your hands, apply more soap, and repeat this process until the spots are nearly removed. To take out candle spots, if any. CLEANSING AND COLORING BOOK. 17 dip the spots in boiling hot water, then take out and rub while hot, repeat process until the stains are out ; then cut up one pound of soap into shavings in one pail of water, put in two ounces of sal-soda and boil until dissolved ; then cool it down with two pails of cold water ; then lay a spread on a table and rub it over with a piece of soap, dip the brush in the soap prepared, and brush it well all over with long- strokes; then put it in the prepared soap and handle it well for three or four minutes ; take it out and squeeze all the soap you can' out of it; then give it one warm and one cold water for rinsing, then hang it to drain. Rinse the soap out of tub and fill it with clean cold water ; put four pails of hand-warmed water in another tub, and put in a table spoonful of oil of vitriol, stir it up well ; take the goods and handle them in it for two or three minutes, then take them out and rinse in the tub of clean water, then rinse again in another water and hang to drain. If there is a silk yellow border on the spread which has lost its color during cleaning process, take three ounces of turmeric and boil it in half a pail of water a few minutes, then pour it into two pails of cold water, stir it up, put in the goods and handle every ten minutes ; leave them in about an hour ; take them out and rinse in two clean cold waters. (For drying and pressing, see pages 5 and 7). To Clean White Sacques and Knit Goods of all Descriptions. To each pound of goods, cut up in shavings one-half pound of soap, boil in two pails of water until dissolved pour one-quarter of it into a tub, and cool it down with one 3 18 SCIENTIFIC AND RELIABLE pail of cold water ; cool the remainder of the soap with one pail of water. (If there are tar spots, see page 8 for method of taking them out.) Then put the goods into the cold soap and let them soak ten or fifteen minutes ; take out the knit goods first, give them a hand-washing in the other soap? squeeze out the soap and rinse in one warm and one cold water, then put them on a clean place to drain ; then take out the sacques, brush them well all over, squeeze the soap out and rinse in the warm and cold water ; then rinse the soap out of the tubs, fill one with clean cold water and put two pails of hand-warmed water in the other ; put three teaspoonsful of oil of vitriol into the warm water, stir it up well, put in all the goods and handle them well for two or three minutes, then take them out and put them in the tub of clean water, and they are done. Remarks. — If these goods need bluing you can blue them to suit your own taste in the tub of warm water and vitriol. To dry knit goods, see page 7. To dry sacques, see page 5. Press them with a very clean cloth, outside and inside, with a moderate hot iron. To Clean Lace Curtains of all Descriptions. Put them in clean cold water and soak them for twelve hours. For four curtains cut into shaving two pounds of soap, boil in four pails of water; take the curtains out of the cold water and let them boil gently for a few minutes, then take them out and cool them, and squeeze all the soap }^ou can out of them, then put them through one warm and one cold water. (This soap is good for any other purpose if you have something to save it in.) Rinse out the tub and fill CLEANSING AND COLORING BOOK. 19 with five pails of warm water ; have the same amount of warm water in the other tub ; then put one-half pound of chlorate of lime in a pail, fill the pail with boiling water, stir it up well and let it remain ten minutes to settle ; when set- tled, pour the clear off into one of the tubs, put two table- spoonsful of oil of vitriol into the other tub ; stir both the tubs up well ; put the curtains into the chlorate of lime first for two or three minutes, then put them into the oil of vitriol for two minutes ; remove the chlorate of lime from the tub and fill it with clean cold water as soon as possible ; put the goods in and fill the other tub with clean water, and put the goods into same ; then dissolve one-half pound of starch in cold water, boil it a few minutes, put in blue to suit taste, then fill up the pail with cold water ; then put in the cur- tains, two at a time ; take them out, wring them and lay them out straight on a floor with a clean sheet under them ; stretch and pin at all sides, and dry as soon as possible- When dry they are done. To Clean an All-Wool Blue Piano Cover, Table Spread or Lady's Dress. First take out paint or tar, if an}^ (see page 8), but be very careful about rubbing these goods, as blues are not very fast colors ; then make up two soaps in two different tubs, one cold and very weak, the other blood-warm and rather stronger, then spread the goods on a table and see if there are any other spots, if so, rub them over with a piece of soap, dip a brush in the strongest soap and brush the spots gently until removed ; then put the goods into the coldest soap, and handle just long enough to wet them all over ; take 20 SCIENTIFIC AND RELIABLE them out on the table again and brush them gently all over, dipping your brush in the strongest soap, then squeeze the soap out and give the goods one lake-warm and one cold water; By this time the goods will have lost much of their color, but the next process will restore it to its or- iginal color. Rinse the two tubs out, and fill one with clean cold water, and put in three pails of as hot water as your hands can bear ; put in the other tub one and one-half tablespoonsful of oil of vitriol, stir up well and handle the goods in this ; in a minute or two the color will be restored and even ; then take it out and rinse it in the tub of clean • water, give it another tub of water, and it is done. For drying and pressing spreads, see pages 5 and 7. For stiffen- ing, drying and pressing dresses, see pages 5, 6 and 7. Remarks. — These goods should go through the soap pro- cess only, one at a time, and as quick as possible, as soap is very injurious to blue colors. To Clean a Brussels or other Fine Carpet or Felt Crumb Cloth thoroughly. The carpet, if large, will have to be ripped about every other seam, this is also done if cleaned in dye-houses, as a whole carpet is much too heavy to handle ; take one piece at a time and shake it well, then begin to take out the worst spots by placing one end of the carpet on a table or board, face up ; rub the spots over with a piece of soap, then brush them with a wet scrubbing brush until removed ; draw the carpet across the table and take the spots out as you go along ; when the spots are removed begin again at the end by throwing pretty strong, but not too warm, soapsuds over CLEANSING AND COLORING BOOK. 21 the carpet; scrub it well with the brush and proceed until finished ; then, when most of the suds are drained out, put it in one warm and one cold water, then have a tub large enough to hold one piece of the carpet, fill it with blood- warm water, put in for each pail of water one teaspoonful of oil of vitriol, stir up well and handle the carpet a few min- utes ; then rinse it it in two clean waters. You may have to strengthen the oil of vitriol with two teaspoonsful to the whole tub for every piece of carpet. (For drying see page 5.) To Clean any kind of Carpet except Brussels or Fine Carpets. Clean according to preceding recipe except that it is not necessary to use the brush. After the worst spots are removed put the carpets into a tub half rilled with soapsuds prepared according to last recipe, then club or pound them with a wooden club or pounder, turn and handle them every five minutes, and proceed until all the soil is removed; then take them out and hang them to drain for a few minutes? then rinse them through the oil of vitriol and repeat as above. (For drying see page 5.) To Dry-Clean any kind of Carpet or Rug. It is impossible to clean a carpet entirely dry. What we mean by dry-cleaning is, that when once we begin to dry- clean a carpet we do not leave it until nearly dry. After slinking and beating a carpet well, spread it on the floor in a spare room, have one pailful of pretty strong soapsuds, free from soda, and no more than blood-warm, and another pail 22 SCIENTIFIC AND RELIABLE of luke-warm water, take a coarse sponge, a brush and some coarse flannel cloth ; dip the sponge in the soap and squeeze it so that it is only half filled, then apply it on the carpet^ about one square yard at a time. Where there are spots you may rub them over with a piece of soap and apply the brush, then squeeze the soap out of the sponge and rinse in the pail of water ; apply it again on the carpet and dry up all the suds you can ; then apply the flannel cloths, and rub it near- ly dry and continue the process until done. Change the water in the pail often, then lift the carpet from the floor by poles resting on chairs. Keep the room warm in winter or the windows open in summer, and it will be perfectly dry in a day. To Clean Black Silks. Dissolve two ounces of sal-soda in one pail of hand-warm water, lay the silk on a table, dip a soft brush in the soda and apply it on the most soiled parts first. When the worst soils are nearly removed, take a sponge, dip it in the soda and apply it all over, proceed until clean. Then rinse it in two clean waters, it is then done. (For finishing silks see page 6). Eemaeks. — If the silk is much soiled you may apply the sponge heavily, but a brush must be used very gently on silks, as hard rubbing will injure the silk. To Clean White, Blue, Purple, Lavender or Red Silks. Make up a pailful of pretty strong, but not very warm soapsuds ; lay the silks on a table, dip a sponge in the soap CLEANSING AND COLORING BOOK. 23 and apply it on the silk until clean, then rinse in one warm and one cold water ; then put one teaspoonful of oil of vitriol into a pail of hand-warm water, stir it up well and handle the silk in it about two minutes ; take them out and rinse them in two clean cold waters, and it is done. (For stiffen- ing and finishing, see page 6.) Eemarks. — If you have two or more of the above colors to be cleaned at one time, do the white first, then the laven- der, then the blue and purple ; clean the red last. To Clean a Light Fur Sacque. Take one pint of alcohol and apply with a sponge and rub well on both sides ; then dry and brush it well. When dry it is done. To Clean Kid Gloves. For four pair of kids take one pint of benzine and let them soak in it for ten minutes, then rub them with a piece of white flannel until they are almost dry, then blow them out perfectly straight and dry them by a hot stove or in the warm sun ; they are then done. SCIENTIFIC AND RELIABLE THE ART OF FEATHER DYEING. To Color a White Feather a Delicate Pink. Put into one quart of water one drop of dissolved red ani- line ; (For dissolving red aniline, see page 9,) get it luke- warm and put in the feather and keep it in until you have produced the required shade. (For drying and curling, see page 7. ) To Color a White Feather Pink. Put two drops of dissolved red aniline in one quart of water. (For dissolving red aniline see page 9.) Make it lukewarm, and keep in the feather until you have the de- sired shade. (For drying and curling see page 7.) To Color a Light-Colored Feather Crimson. Put one teaspoonful of dissolved red aniline into one quart of water, (for dissolving red aniline see page 9,) boil ten min- utes; if not dark enough then, add more aniline and boil again till you have the desired shade, then rinse in one water. (For drying and curling see page 7.) To Color a White Feather Scarlet. Put one-half teaspoonful dissolved red aniline into one quart of water. (For dissolving red aniline see page 9.) Add one tablespoonful of turmeric and boil until you have the_ desired shade. (For drying and curling see page 7.) DON'T FAIL TO VISIT THE STORE o:f — WM. J. WILCOX, Wholesale and Retail Bookseller, Stationer and Newsdealer, 82 MAIN ST. BRIDGE, EOCHESTEE, 1ST. "IST. Gomplimenlary, Birthday and Wedding Gift^ PHOTOGRAPH AND AUTOGRAPH ALBUMS IN PLUSH, SEALSKIN, FRENCH CALF AND RUSSIAN LEATHER. Teachers' Bibles, Prayer Books, Hymnals. FINE LEATHER WRITING DESKS AND PLUSH NOVELTIES. Ladies' Choice Stationery and Mercantile Business Sta- tionery a specialty. J-gf^Remember the number, 82 MAIN ST. BRIDGE. EAST ROCHESTER TEA and COFFEE HOUSE. 1 I f I I I f I t I I I 1 f I i Tea and Goffee Trade enables me to place before the public better value for money than can be obtained elsewhere. I have in stock fancy grades, such as cannot be found in any other store in the city. 1 l l I l l I i i i I ; I l I I i Highly Scented Orange Pekoe, Fancy Assam, Basket Fired Japan Tea, First Picking Garden Japan, Choice Gunpowder, Finest Oolongs, Extra Young Hyson, Fancy English Breakfast. All styles of Mixed Teas, Old Govt. Java, Mocha, Rio and Maracaibo Coffees. r i i ( i i i r i i i ' Nos. 306 and 308 UNIVERSITY AVE. MANY YEARS OF EXPERIENCE IN THE CLEANSING AND COLORING BOOK. 25 To Color a Light-colored Feather Cardinal. Put one teaspoonful of dissolved red aniline into one quart of water, (for dissolving red aniline see page 9.) Add one and one-half teaspoonsful of turmeric, boil it until you have produced the required shade and rinse in one clean water. (For drying and curling see page 7.) To Color a Light-colored Feather Garnet. Put two teaspoonsful of dissolved red aniline into one quart of water ; (for dissolving red aniline see page 9 ;) add one tablespoonful of turmeric, one tablespoonful of hyper- nic. Boil twenty minutes, then take out the feather and rinse in one water. (For drying and curling see page 7.) To Color a Feather Maroon. Put one tablespoonful of logwood chips into one quart of water ; add two tablespoonsful of turmeric, one tablespoonful of hypernic, two tablespoonsful of dissolved red aniline ; (for dissolving red aniline see page 9.) Boil these dye-stuffs five minutes, then put in the feather and boil twenty minutes ; take out and rinse in two cold waters. (For drying and curl- ing see page 7.) To Color a White Feather Lavender. Put one drop of dissolved violet aniline into one quart of water ; (for dissolving violet aniline see page 9 ;) make it hike warm ; put in the feather and let it remain until it as- 26 SCIENTIFIC AND RELIABLE sumes the desired shade. If not dark enough in ten min- utes, add another drop of the dye, (For drying and curling- see page 7.) To Color a Light-colored Feather Purple. Put one teaspoonful of dissolved violet aniline into one quart of water, (for dissolving violet aniline see page 9 ;) make it luke-warm, put in the feather for ten minutes'; if it is not dark enough in that time dissolve a small piece of blue vitriol in boiling water, and add this to the dye ; put in the feather again, and let it remain until dark enough. For dry- and curling see page 7. To Color a Light-Colored Feather Plumb Color. Put two teaspoonsful of dissolved violet aniline into one quart of water, (for dissolving violet aniline see page 9); add one tablespoonful of hypernic, one tablespoonful of logwood chips, and a small piece of blue vitriol ; let these dye-stuffs boil five minutes, then put in the feather and boil it twenty minutes ; take it out and rinse it in one cold water. For drying and curling see page 7. To Color a White Feather a Delicate Blue. Put one drop of dissolved Nicholson blue into one quart of water, (for dissolving Nicholson blue see page 8) ; let the feather boil in this for five minutes ; then put one teaspoon- ful of oil of vitriol into one quart of cold water, make it blood-warm, and dip the feather in for just one moment, and CLEANSING AND COLORING BOOK. 27 rinse in one clean water. For drying and curling see page 7. Remarks. — The above color is very pale, not much darker than a French white. If you wish it darker in shade, put in two drops of Nicholson blue instead of one. To Color a Light-colored Feather French Blue, Put one teaspoonful of dissolved Nicholson blue into one quart of water, [for dissolving Nicholson blue see page 8] ; boil the feather in this for ten minutes ; then put one tea- spoonful of oil of vitriol into one quart of cold water, make it blood-warm, and dip the feather in just for one moment ; then rinse in cold water. For drying and curling see page 7. Ermarks. — If you desire a very dark shade of color you may use one and one-half teaspoonsful of the Nicholson blue. To Color a Light-colored Feather Navy Blue. Put two teaspoonsful of dissolved Nicholson blue into one quart of water, [for dissolving Nicholson blue see page 8] ; put in the feather and let it boil ten minutes, then take it out and rinse it in one water. Put one teaspoonful of oil of vitriol into one quart of water, make it blood-warm, then dip in the feather for one moment, and take it out and rinse it. Now put two ounces of logwood chips and one-half ounce of copperas into one pint of water, and allow these dye-stuffs to boil for ten minutes, then cool the solution down with one pint of cold water ; put in the feather, and deepen the shade according to taste. For drying and curling see page 7. 28 SCIENTIFIC AND RELIABLE To Color a White Feather a Light Green. Put one-half a teaspoonful of dissolved Nicholson blue in- to one quart of water, [for dissolving Nicholson blue see- page 8] ; put in the feather and let it boil ten minutes ; then put one teaspoonful of oil of vitriol and two teaspoonsful of turmeric into one quart of water and let it boil until you get the shade you require, dip the feather, and rinse in one cold water. For drying and curling see page 7. To Color a Light-colored Feather Myrtle Green. Put two teaspoonsful of dissolved Nicholson blue into one quart of water, [for dissolving Nicholson blue see page 8] ; allow it to boil fifteen minutes; then put one teaspoonful of oil of vitriol into one quart of cold water, make it blood-warm and dip the feather one moment. Then put one tablespoonful of logwood chips, one tablespoonful of turmeric, and one tablespoonful of indigo paste into one quart of water ; boil the dye-stuffs ten minutes, then put in the feather and boil until it assumes the shade you desire ; rinse in one cold water. For drying and curling see page 7. To Color a Light-Colored Feather Bottle Green. You can color in an exactly similar manner to those in the preceding recipe, but in addition to the last dye, put in three tablespoonsful of logwood chips. For drying and curL ing see page 7, CLEANSING AND COLORING BOOK. 29 To Color a White Feather Light Brown. Put one handful of fustic chips and two tablespoonsful of hypernic into one quart of water ; boil the feather twenty minutes, and rinse it in one cold water. Remarks. — If you desire to obtain a darker shade, put in an additional tablespoonful of hypernic and one tablespoonful of logwood chips. For drying and curling see page 7. To Color a Light Feather Seal Brown. Put two handfuls of fustic chips, two handfuls of hypernic, one handful of logwood chips, and one-half an ounce of blue vitriol into one quart of water ; let the dye-stuffs boil ten minutes, then put in the feather and let it boil until it has assumed the shade you require; then rinse in one cold water.. For drying and curling see page 7. To Color a Feather Wine Colon Put one handful of hypernic, one tablespoonful of log- wood chips, and one-quarter ounce of blue vitriol into one quart of water ; allow these dye-stuffs to boil ten minutes, then put in the feather and boil twenty minutes. Now put one teaspoonful of dissolved red aniline into one quart of water, [for dissolving red aniline see page 9] ; put in the feather, let it boil for ten minutes, and rinse in one cold water. For drying and curling see page 7. 30 SCIENTIFIC AND RELIABLE To Color a Light Colored Feather Black. Dissolve one-half ounce of ammonia into one quart of boil, ing water; soak the Feather in it two hours, then take it out and rinse it in one cold water. Then put one-quarter ounce of bi-chromate of potash into one quart of water and boil ten minutes, then put in the feather and boil for one hour, and rinse in two cold waters ; Now put two handfuls of logwood chips, one handful of fustic chips, a small piece of sal-soda and a little piece of lard into one quart of water ; boil five minutes, then put in the feather and boil for one hour, and rinse in two cold waters. For drying and curling see page 7. To Clean and Re-dye a Faded Black Feather. Dissolve one-half ounce of ammonia in one quart of boil- ing water, put in your feather and soak for two hours ; then put one handful of logwood chips, one-half handful of fustic chips into two quarts of water, and boil for ten min- utes ; then put in the feather and boil for fifteen minutes, and rinse in one clean water. For drying and curling^ see page 7. CLEANSING AND COLORING BOOK. 31 THE ART OF SILK DYEING. To Color a White Silk a Delicate Pink. Put five drops of dissolved aniline into one gallon of water (for dissolving red aniline see page 9) ; boil the silks five minutes. Remarks. — For cleaning silks before dying see page 9., For finishing silks see page 6. To Color White Silk Pink. For cleaning silk before dying, see page 9. Put eight drops of dissolved red aniline into one gallon of water ; (for dis- solving red aniline see page 9) ; boil the silk until it has the desired shade, then rinse it in one cold water. For finishing- silks see page 6. To Color a White Silk Crimson. For cleaning silk before dyeing, see page 9. Put two tea- spoonsful of dissolved red aniline into one gallon of water ; (for dissolving red aniline see page 9) ; boil the silks for fif- teen minutes, then rinse in one cold water. For finishing- silks see page 6. SCIENTIFIC AND KELIABLE To Color Scarlet on White Silk or Satin. For cleaning silks before dyeing, see page 9. Put two tea- spoonsful of dissolved red aniline into one gallon of water, (for dissolving red aniline see page 9) ; add three table- spoonsful of turmeric, let it boil one minute, then put in the silk and boil until it has acquired the desired shade, and rinse in one water. For stiffening and finishing silks, see page 6. To Color Cardinal on Light Colored Silk or Satin. For cleaning silks before dyeing, see page 9. Put four tea- spoonsful of dissolved red aniline into one gallon of water, (for dissolving red aniline see page 9); add three tablespoons- ful of turmeric ; let it boil for one minute, then put in the silk and boil for fifteen minutes, or until you have the de- sired shade, then, rinse it in one water. For stiffening and finishing silk, see page 6. To Color Garnet on a Light-colored Silk or Satin. For cleaning silk before dyeing see page 9. Put one table- spoonful of dissolved red aniline into one gallon of water, (for dissolving red aniline, see page 9) ; add three tablespoons- ful of turmeric, two tablespoon sful of hy pernio ; let the dye boil one minute ; then put the silk in and boil it twenty min- utes, then take it out and rinye in one water. For stiffening and finishing silk, see page 6. CLEANSING AND COLORING BOOK. 33 To Color Maroon on Light-colored Silk or Satin. For cleaning silk before dyeing see page 9. Pat one table- spoonful of logwood chips, two tablespoonsful of hypernic, three tablespoonsful of turmeric, and one tablespoonful of dissolved red aniline (for dissolving red aniline see page 9) into one gallon of water, let these dye-stuffs boil five min- utes, then put in the silk and boil from fifteen to twenty minutes ; take it out and rinse in two clean waters. For stiffening and finishing silks, see page 6. To Color a Delicate Blue on White Silk or Satin. For cleaning silk before dyeing, see page 9. Put four drops dissolved Nicholson blue into one gallon of water, (for dissolving Nicholson blue, see page 8); stir the dye, and allow it to boil one minute ; then put in the silk and boil for ten minutes. Now put one teaspoonful of oil of vitriol into one gallon of water, make it hand-warm, then dip in the silk for a few moments and rinse it in one water. For stiffening and finishing, see page 6. To Color a Medium Light Blue on White Silk or Satin. For cleaning silk before dyeing, see page 9. Put 8 drops of dissolved Nicholson blue into one gallon of water, (for dis. solving Nicholson blue, see page 8); stir up the dye and let it boil one minute, then put in the silk and boil it for ten minutes, handling it all the while. Now put one teaspoon- 5 34 SCIENTIFIC AND KELIABLE ful of oil of vitriol into one gallon of water, put in the silk | and handle it a few seconds, then rinse it in one water. For stiffening and finishing silks, see page 6. To Color a French Blue on Light-colored Silk or Satin. For cleaning silks before dyeing, see page 9. Put two teaspoonsful of dissolved Nicholson blue into one gallon of water, (for dissolving Nicholson blue see page 8) ; stir the d}^e and boil one minute, then put in the' silk and boil for fifteen minutes, then rinse it in one water. Now put one teaspoonful of oil of vitriol into one gallon of water, make it hand -warm and put in. the silk and handle for a few sec- onds ; then take it out and rinse it in one water. For stiffen- ing and finishing silks, see page 6. To Color Navy Blue on Light-Colored Silk or Satin. For cleaning silks before dyeing, see page 9. Put two tea- spoonsful of Nicholson blue into one gallon of water, for dis- solving Nicholson blue, see page 8) ; stir up the dye, and boil one minute ; then put in the silk and let it boil fifteen s , minutes, then take it out and rinse in one water. Now put j one teaspoonful of oil of vitriol into one gallon of water, j make it hand-warm, then put in the silk and handle a few lf seconds ; rinse it in two waters. Now put two tablespoons- ful of logwood chips and one-half ounce of copperas into one- j, half-gallon of water, boil these dye-stuffs ten minutes, then j cool down with one-half gallon of cold water, stir it up and ] handle the silk in it until you have the desired shade. For | stiffening and finishing silks, see page 6. CLEANSING AND COLOKING BOOK. 35 If i To Color Light Green on Light Silk or Satin. For cleaning silks before dyeing, see page 9. Put one tea* spoonful of Nicholson Blue into one gallon of water, (for dis- i solving Nicholson blue see page 8) ; stir it up and let boil one minute, put in the silks, handle them, and let them boil ten minutes ; then put one teaspoonful of oil of vitriol into one gallon of water, make it hand-warm, stir it up well and handle the silks in it for a few seconds, then take them out I and rinse them in one water ; then put one tablespoonf ul of turmeric into one gallon of water, boil a few minutes ; then put in the silks, handle them and let them boil until you have the desired shade, then take them out and rinse them in one water. For Stiffening and finishing silks, see page 6. To Color a Myrtle Green on Light-colored Silk or Satin* For cleaning silk before dyeing, see page 9. Put two tea- spoonsful of Nicholson blue into one gallon of water, (for dissolving Nicholson blue see page 8.) Stir the dye and let it boil one minute, then handle the silk in and let it boil ten minutes, then take it out and rinse in one water; then put one tablespoonful of logwood chips and one-half tablespoon- ful of turmeric into one gallon of water and boil ; when boil- ing, put in two tablespoonsf ul of indigo paste ; let the whole boil ten minutes, then handle the silk, and boil until you have the desired shade, then take it out and rinse in one water. For stiffening and finishing silk, see page 6. 36 SCIENTIFIC AND RELIABLE To Dye a Bottle Green on Light-Colored Silk or Satin. For cleaning silk before dyeing, see page 9. This color is dyed in the same way as myrtle green (see preceding recipe) ? but add three tablespoonsf ul of logwood chips instead of one. For stiffening and finishing, see page 6. To Color Lavender on White Silk or Satin. For cleaning silk before dyeing, see page 9. Put four drops of dissolved violet aniline into one gallon of water (for dissolving violet aniline, see page 9); Make it hand-warm stir it up well, put in the silk and handle until you have the desired color ; then take it out and rinse in one water. For stiffening and finishing silks see page 6. To Color Purple on White Silk or Satin. For cleaning silk before dyeing, see page 9. Put two tea- spoonsful of dissolved violet aniline into one gallon of water (for dissolving violet aniline, see page 9); make it hand- warm, put in the silks and handle for fifteen minutes. If not dark enough, dissolve a small piece of blue vitriol in boiling water, and when dissolved, pour it into the dye and stir it up well, put in the silk again and handle until they are dark enough, then take it out and rinse in one water For stiffening and finishing silks, see page 6. CLEANSING AND COLORING BOOK. 37 To Dye Plum Color on Light-Colored Silk or Satin. For cleaning silk before dyeing, see page 9. Put two tea- spoonsful of dissolved violet aniline into one gallon of water (for dissolving violet aniline, see page 9); add two table- spoonsful of logwood chips and two tablespoonsful of hypernic and boil ten minutes, then put in the silk, boil and handle it fifteen or twenty minutes, then take it out and rinse it in two waters. For stiffening and finishing silks, see page 6. To Dye Wine Color on Light-Colored Silk or Satin. For cleaning silk before dyeing, see page 9. Put two tea- spoonsful of dissolved red aniline into one gallon of water, (for dissolving red aniline, see page 9) ; add two tablespoons- ful of logwood chips and two tablespoonsful of hypernic. Let these dye-stuffs boil ten minutes, then put in the silk and boil and handle it fifteen or twenty minutes; then take it out and rinse it in two waters. For stiffening and finish- ing silks, see page 6. To Color Light Brown on White Silk or Satin. For cleaning silks before dyeing see page 9. Put four ounces of fustic chips, two ounces of hypernic and one-half ounce of logwood chips into one gallon of water, let these dye-stuffs boil for ten minutes, ; put in the silk and handle it, but do not let it boil. Keep it in fifteen minutes. Now dissolve one-half ounce of copperas in the dye, but first making it to boil, stir it up well, put in the silk and handle again until it is dark enough, then take it out and rinse in tw r o waters. For stiffening and finishing silks, see page 6. 38 SCIENTIFIC AND RELIABLE To Color Medium Brown on Light-colored Silk or Satin. For cleaning silks before dyeing, see page 9. Put six ounces of fustic chips, four ounces of hypernic and one ounce of logwood chips into one gallon of water; let these dye- stuffs boil for ten minutes ; then put in the silk and handle it' for fifteen minutes, but do not let it boil ; then take out the silk, and dissolve three-quarters of an ounce of copperas in the hot dye, stir it up well, put in the silk and handle until the color is dark enough to suit you, then take it out and rinse in two waters.. For stiffening and finishing silks, see page 6. To Color Seal Brown on Light Colored Silk or Satin. For cleaning silks before dj'eing, see page 9. Put six- ounces of fustic chips, four ounces of hypernic and one ounce of logwood chips into one gallon of water ; let these dye-stuffs boil ten minutes, then put in the silk and handle for twenty minutes, but do not let it boil ; then take out the silk, dissolve one and one-half ounces of copperas into the hot dye, stir it up well, then put in the silk and handle for ten minutes, then take it out and rinse in two waters. For stiffening and finishing silks, see page 6. To Color a Japanese or other Silk or Cotton Goods a Seal Brown. For cleaning silks before dyeing, see page 9. Put four ounces of catechue, broken np into small pieces into four pails of water ; add one-half ounce of blue-stone; let it boil until dissolved (this will take about fifteen minutes), stir it up well CLEANSING AND COLORING BOOK. 39 while boiling ; let it stop boiling, put in the goods and handle for twenty minutes, then take them out and rinse out the boiler ; then put one and one-half ounces of bi- chromate of potash into four pails of clean water, boil ten minutes or until dissolved, then allow it to stop boiling, put in the goods and handle them ten minutes : take them out and rinse them in one water. Pat eight ounces of fustic chips, four ounces of hypernic, two ounces of logwood chips and one ounce of blue vitriol into four pails of water (tie these dye stuffs into a small bag of thin cotton cloth before putting them into the water), boil twenty minutes, then let. it cease boiling and take out the bag, put in the goods and handle ten minutes without boiling ; then let them boil slow- ly for fifteen minutes, then take them out and rinse them in two waters) For stiffening and finishing, see page 6. To Dye Black on all Colors of Silk or Satin except Brown or Black. For cleaning silks before dyeing, see page 9. To each gallon of cold water, put one teaspoonful of iron liquor, stir it up well, put in the silk and handle well for fifteen minutes, then put them under the liquid and leave them in for twelve hours ; then take them out and rinse them in three separate waters. Then put two ounces of logwood chips and one-half ounce of fustic chips into a bag as directed in last recipe and put into three quarts of water, boil twenty min- utes, then take the bag out and put in a teaspoonful of lard and a small piece of sal soda, stir it up well and cool it down with one quart of water, then put in the goods and handle them well for twenty minutes, then take them out and rinse 40 SCIENTIFIC AND KELIABLE them in two waters. Then mix one pint of sweet milk with] one pint of water, put in the goods and handle just long enough to soak evenly, then take them out and squeeze out most of the milk, and brush and smooth on a board as de- scribed on page 6. Remarks. — Prepared iron liquor can be bought at all drag stores. To Color Black on Brown Silk or Satin. For cleaning silks before dyeing, see page 9. To each gallon of water put in two ounces of logwood chips and a small piece of sal-soda, boil these for ten minutes, then put in one teaspoonful of lard, stir it up well and put in the silk and boil slowly for ten minutes; then take them out and put in one ounce of copperas, stir up the dye until the copperas dissolves, which will take about ten minutes ; then put the silk in again and boil slowly for twenty minutes, then take it out and rinse in two waters ; finish in milk as described in last recipe. To Clean and Re-Dye Faded Black Silk. . To each pail of water put in two ounces of logwood chips and one and one-half ounces of sal-soda ; boil these fifteen minutes, then cool down with one gallon of cold water • then put in the silk and handle it for twenty minutes; take them out and rinse them in two waters then put them in milk and finish as described above. NEW CARPETS AN IMMENSE STOCK— WHOLESALE or RETAIL. flglF'My Stock of every variety is now complete. My Private Patterns in FINE GOODS are very beautiful in design and coloring-, and of EXTRA QUALITY, made strictly after the ENGLISH STANDARD and superior to any goods in the market. Also, a Full Line of Furniture at Extremely Low Prices. I. F. CARTER, 89 State Street, Rochester, N. Y. FRANK VAN DOORN, NEW R0031S, 24 EXCHANGE ST. ESTABLISHED 1864. THE ALDEN FRUIT VINEGAR, ALDEN & BKO. CO., Sole Prop'rs, ST. LOUIS. The ALDEN FRUIT VINEGAR IS WARRANTED PER- FECTLY PURE, made by natural process, and absolutely free from all adulterations. Will always keep pickels, and improve with age. Cheaper Vinegars are Made, but None Better pE]SLKEIi'$ JOKING jpeWDEH BEST AND CHEAPEST. For Sale By All First Class Grocers. iSTRANDSOME PRESENTS GIVEN AWAY TO ADVERTISE THE GOODS. TRY IT AND YOU WILL LIKE IT. BREWSTER, GORDON & CO,. Gen Ag'ts for Rochester, N. Y The Most Wholesome and Delicious Preserve is COLLYER'S CELEBRATED s j n MARMALAD 1U " ORANGE" and ,k LEMON." n It is particularly recommended as a faithful .ajid f ka$ant i\rtick of Diet is largely used in Great Britain, and is fast rinding favor in this country. We Guarantee the Perfect Purity of all the Ingredients USED IN ITS MANUFACTURE.* PREPARED ONLY BY 306 and 308 UNIVERSITY AVE., Rochester, N. Y„ U. S. A. CLEANSING AND COLORING- BOOK. 41 THE ART OF DYEING VELVET AND PLUSH. To Clean Velvet or Plush before Dyeing. The following directions apply to all colors on velvet or plush : Put two ounces of soap cut up into shavings and four ounces of sal-soda into one pail of water, boil until dissolved ; then cool it down with half a pail of cold water, stir it up, put in the goods and handle them ten minutes, then take them out and rinse them in one warm and one cold water. Handle them very carefully in all the liquids, and do not touch the face of the goods more than you can help, as the least crush- ing will always leave marks. After taking them out of any liquid or water, always hang them face up on poles or where they will hang free ; if a sacque, get a stick two and one-half feet long, and bowshaped, tie a short string to the center, then put one end into each sleeve of the sacque and hang by the string. To Color Pink on White Velvet or Plush. To each pail of water put in ten drops of dissolved red aniline (for dissolving red aniline see page 9); stir it up and let the goods boil slowly five or ten minutes, then take them out any rinse in one water. For finishing velvet and plush, see page 8. To Color a Deep Crimson on White Velvet or Plush. For cleaning and handling velvet or plush see page 41 To each pail of water put in two tablespoonsful of dissolved red aniline (for dissolving red aniline see page 9 ; 6 42 SCIENTIFIC AND KELIABLE stir it up, put in the goods and boil slowly for fifteen min- utes ; if not deep enough in color, take them out and put a little more red aniline into the dye, stir it up and put in the goods ; when they have acquired the desired shade, take out and rinse them in one water. For finishing velvet and plash see page 8. To Color Scarlet on White Velvet or Plush. For cleaning and handling velvet or plush, see page 41. To one pail of water pat in one and one-half tablespoonsful of dissolved red aniline (for dissolving red aniline, see page 9,) ; add four ounces of turmeric ; boil the dye two minutes, then put in the goods and boil them until they have acquired the desired shade, then take them out and rinse them. For fin- ishing velvet and plush, see page 8. To Color Cardinal on Light-colored Velvet or Plush. For cleaning and handling velvet or plush, see page 41. To one pail of water pat three tablespoonsful of red aniline (for dissolving red aniline, see page 9) ; add four ounces of turmeric, let this boil for two minutes, then put in the goods and boil them slowly fifteen minutes ; then take them out and rinse them. For finishing velvet and plush, see page 8. To Color Garnet on Light-colored Velvet or Plush. For cleaning and handling velvet or plush, see page 41. To one pail of water put in three tablespoonsful CLEANSING AND COLORING BOOK. 43 of dissolved red aniline (for dissolving red aniline, see page 9) ; add four ounces of turmeric and three ounces of hyper- nic ; let these boil five minutes, then put the goods in and boil them slowly for twenty minutes ; take them out and rinse them in two waters. For finishing velvet and plush, see page 8. To Color Maroon on Light-colored Velvet or Plush. For cleaning and handling velvet or plush, see page 4L To one pail of water put in four ounces of logwood chips, six ounces of hypernic, eight ounces of turmeric and four tablespoonsful of dissolved red aniline (for dissolv- ing red aniline see page 9); let these dye-stuffs boil five minutes, then put in the goods and handle them ; let them boil slowly for twenty minutes, then take them out and rinse them in two waters. For finishing velvet or plush, see page 8. To Color Delicate Blue on White Velvet or Plush. For cleaning and handling velvet or plush, see page 41. To one pail of water put in ten drops of dissolved Nicholson blue (for dissolving Nicholson blue, see page 8) ; let this boil one minute, then put the goods in and boil them ten minutes ; then put two teaspoonsful of oil of vitriol into a pail of clean water, stir it up and make it hand-warm, put the goods into this and handle them a few seconds, then take them out and rinse them. For finishing velvet or plush, see page 8. 44 SCIENTIFIC AND RELIABLE To Color a Medium Light Blue on Light Velvet or Plush. For cleaning and handling velvet or plush, see page 41. To each pail of water put in one teaspoonful of dissolved Nicholson blue (for dissolving Nicholson blue, see page 8) ; let this boil for one minute, then put in the goods and boil them slowly for ten minutes ; then put two teaspoonsful of oil of vitriol into a pail of clean water, stir it up, make it hand- warm, then, dip the goods a few seconds, then take them out and rinse them. For finishing velvet or plush, see page 8. To Color French Blue on Light-colored Velvet or Plush. For cleaning and handling velvet or plush, see page 41. To each pail of water put in one tablespoonful of dissolved Nicholson blue (for dissolving Nicholson blue, see page 8) ; let this boil one minute, then put in the goods and boil them slowly for fifteen minutes, then take them out and rinse them in one water; then put three teaspoonsful of oil of vitriol into a pail of clean water, make it hand-warm and dip the goods in a few seconds, then take them out and rinse them in two waters. For finishing velvet or plush, see page 8. To Color Navy Blue on Light-colored Velvet or Plush. For cleaning and handling velvet or plush, see page 41. To each pail of water put in one tablespoonful of dissolved Nicholson blue (for dissolving Nicholson blue, see page 8) ; let this boil one minute, then put in the goods CLEANSING AND COLORING BOOK. 45 and boil slowly for fifteen minutes, then take them out and rinse them in one water ; then put three teaspoonsful of oil of vitriol into a pail of water, make it hand-warm and dip in the goods a few seconds, then take them out and rinse them in two waters ; then put four ounces of logwood chips and two ounces of copperas into one-half pail of water, let this boil ten minutes, then pour the liquid off into one-half pail of cold water, stir it up, put in the goods and handle them until they have acquired the desired shade ; then take them out and rinse in two waters. For finishing velvet and plush see page 8. To Color Lavender on White Velvet or Plush. For cleaning and handling velvet or plush, see page 41. To one pail of water put in one teaspoonful of dissolved violet aniline (for dissolving violet aniline, see page 9) ; stir it up well and make it hand warm, then put in the goods and handle them until they have acquired the desired shade ; then take them out and rinse them. For finishing velvet or plush see page 8. To Color Purple on Light Colored Velvet or Plush. For cleaning and handling velvet or plush, see page 41. To one pail of water put in two tablespoonsful of dissolved violet aniline (for dissolving violet aniline, see page 9) ; stir it up well and make it hand-warm, then put in the goods and handle them for fifteen minutes ; if the shade is not dark enough then, take them out ; then dissolve one ounce of blue vitriol in boiling water, pour it into the SCIENTIFIC AND RELIABLE dye and stir it up well, then put in the goods and handl. oh until they have acquired a dark enough shade, then tak see them out and rinse them well. For finishing velvet or plus] am see page 8. §p To Dye a Light-colored Velvet or Plush Plum Color. For cleaning and handling velvet or plush, see page 41 U To one pail of water put in four ounces of logwoocll A chips, four ounces of hypernic, and one tablespoonfu III of dissolved violet aniline (for dissolving violet aniline, see 1 page 9) ; let these dye-stuffs boil ten minutes, then put in the goods and boil slowly for twenty minutes; take them out and rinse them in two waters. For finishing velvet and plush see page 8. To Dye a Light-colored Velvet or Plush Wine Color. For cleaning and handling velvet or plush, see page 41. To one pail of water put in four ounces of f\ logwood chips, four ounces of hypernic and one tablespoon-, ful of red aniline (for dissolving red aniline see page 9) ; let these dye-stuffs boil for ten minutes, then put in the goods and handle them ; let them boil slowly for twenty minutes, then take them out and rinse them in two waters. For fin- ishing velvet or plush, see page 8. I To Color Light Green on White Velvet or Plush. For cleaning and handling velvet or plush, see page 41. To one pail of water put in one tablespoonful CLEANSING AND COLORING BOOK. 47 U< of dissolved Nicholson blue (for dissolving Nicholson blue hsee page 8) ; let this boil one minute, then put in the goods stand boil them slowly for ten minutes ; then put three tea- spoonsful of oil of vitriol into one pail of water, make it hand-warm and dip the goods in a few seconds, then take them out and rinse them in two waters ; then put two table- r " spoonsful of turmeric into one pail of water, let this boil tl.one minute, then put in the goods and handle them, and boil id them slowly until they have acquired the desired shade ; ihhen take them out and rinse them well. For finishing e velvet and plush, see page 8. in it ~ a To Color Myrtle Green on Light-colored Velvet or Plush. For cleaning and handling velvet or plush, see page 41. 1 To one pail of water put in two tablespoonsful of jelissolved Nicholson blue (for dissolving Nicholson blue see i oage 8) ; let this boil one minute, then put in the goods and i landle them, and let them boil slowly for fifteen minutes ; let ;hen put three tablespoonsful of oil of vitriol into one pail s )f water, make it hand-warm, dip in the goods for a few sec- 9, >nds, then take them out and rinse them in one water ; then iut three tablespoonsful of logwood chips and one table- spoonful of turmeric into one pail of water, let this boil one ninute ; then put in two tablespoonsful of indigo paste, and et the whole boil ten minutes ; then put in the goods and landle them, boil slowly until they have acquired the de- j >ired shade, then take them out and rinse them well. For ; inishing velvet or plush, see page 8. 48 SCIENTIFIC AND RELIABLE To Color Bottle Green on Light-colored Velvet or Plush. For cleaning and handling velvet or plush, see page 41 This color may be dyed in the same manner as describee in last recipe for myrtle green, but put in six tablespoon sfu of logwood chips instead of three. For finishing velvet o: plush, see page 8. To Color Light Brown on White Velvet or Plush. For cleaning and handling velvet or plush, see page 41 To one pail of water put in eight ounces of fustic chips, fou] ounces of hypernic and one ounce of logwood chips ; le' these dye-stuffs boil fifteen minutes, then cool with one-hal: pail cold water, put in the goods and handle for fifteei minutes, then take them out and dissolve one ounc« of copperas in boiling water, add this to the dye, ant stir it up well, then put in the goods and handle them unti they have acquired shade ; then take them out and rinse them well. For finishing velvet or plush, see page 8. To Color Medium Brown On Light-colored Velvet or Plush. For cleaning and handling velvet or plush see page 41, To one pail of water put in eight ounces of fustic chips, sis ounces of of hypernic and two ounces of logwood chips ; boi? these dye-stuffs in a bag of thin cotton cloth for ten minutes then take out the bag and cool the dye with one-half pail o cold water, then put in the goods and handle them for fif CLKANSING AND COLORING BOOK. 49 teen minutes and take them out ; then dissolve two ounces of copperas and add to the dye, stir it up well, then put in the goods and handle them for fifteen minutes ; take them out and rinse them well. For finishing velvet or plush, see page 8. To Color a Seal Brown on Light-colored Velvet or Plush. For cleaning and handling velvet or plush, see page 41. To one pail of water put in eight ounces of fustic chips, six ounces of hypernic and three ounces of logwood chips ; tie these dye-stuffs up in a thin cotton cloth bag and boil twen- ty minutes, then take out the bag and cool the dye with one- half pail of cold water ; then put in the goods and handle for twenty minutes ; then take them out, and dissolve three ounces of copperas in boiling water and add this to the dye stir it up well, put in the goods and handle them for twenty minutes ; then take them out and rinse them well. For fin- ishing velvet or plash, see page 8. To Color Black on all Colors of Velvet or Plush except Brown or Black. For cleaning and handling velvet or plush, see page 41. To five pails of water put in three tablespoonsful of iron liquor (prepared iron liquor can be procured at any drug store) ; stir it up well, put in the goods and handle them steadily for fifteen minutes ; then put them under the liquor and leave them for twelve hours, then take them out and rinse them in three separate waters ; then put two pounds of 7 50 SCIENTIFIC AND RELIABLE logwood chips and eight ounces of fustic chips into four pails of water, tie these in a thin cotton cloth bag, boil them half an hour; take out the bag and put in two tablespoonsful of lard and a small piece of sal-soda, stir them up well, and cool down with one pail of cold water, put in the goods and handle them one-half hour, then take them out ; dissolve one ounce of chlorate of lime in boiling water, let it settle a few minutes in the pail, then pour off all the clear liquid into four pails of luke-warm water, then stir it up well, put in the goods and handle them about three minutes; have a tub of clean water placed ready, rinse them in that, then rinse them again in another tub of clean water. For finish- ing velvet or plush, see page 8. To Color Black on Brown Velvet or Plush. For cleaning and handling velvet or plush, see page 41. To five pails of water put in two pounds of logwood chips tie them in a thin cotton cloth bag and boil one-half hour ; then take out the bag, put in a small piece of sal-soda and stir up the dye ; put in the goods and boil slowly for fifteen minutes ; then take them out and put in one pound of cop- peras ; when this is dissolved (which will take about ten min- utes) stir the dye up, put in the goods and boil them slowly for twenty minutes, then take them out ; dissolve one ounce of chlorate of lime in boiling water, let it settle a few min- utes in the pail, then pour all the clear into five pails of luke-warm water, stir it up well and put in the goods and handle them about three minutes ; have a tub of clean water placed ready to put them in, then rinse them again in an- other water. For finishing velvet or plush, see page 8. CLEANSING AND COLORING BOOK. To Clean and Re-Dye Faded Black Velvet or Plush. To four pails of water put in one pound of logwood chips, tie tli em into a bag of thin cotton cloth and boil fifteen min- utes ; then take out the bag and put one-half pound of sal- soda into the dye, stir it up well until the sal-soda dissolves, then cool it down with one pail of cold water ; put in the goods and handle them for twenty minutes, take them out, dissolve one ounce of chlorate of lime in boiling water, let it settle a few minutes in the pail, then pour all the clear in- to five pails of luke-warm water, stir up well and put in the goods and handle them about three minutes ; have a tub of clean water placed ready to put them in, then rinse them in another water. For finishing velvet or plush, see page 8. THE ART OF WOOLEN DYEING. To Color Light Blue on White Woolen Goods. For cleaning woolen goods before dyeing, see page 9. For one pound of goods use two pails of water, two teaspoonsf ul of dissolved Nicholson blue (for dissolving Nicholson blue, see page 8) ; let this boil for one minute, then put in the goods and let them boil ten minutes ; keep stirring them up well all the time ; then take them out and rinse them in one cold water. Put two teaspoonsful of oil of vitriol into one pail of water, make it blood-warm, stir it up well and dip the goods in one minute, then take them out and rinse them in two waters. For drying, stiffening and pressing woolen goods, see pages 5, 6 and 7. SCIENTIFIC AND RELIABLE To Color French Blue on White, Pink, Light Blue, Lavender, or Light Grey Woolen Goods. For cleaning woolen goods before dyeing, see page 9. For two pounds of woolen goods use four pails of water, two tablespoonsful of dissolved Nicholson blue (for dissolving Nicholson blue, see page 8), and one ounce of sal-soda ; let these dye-stuffs boil for one minute, then put in the goods and boil them for twenty minutes, then take them out and rinse them well in one water ; then put one and one-half tablespoonsful of oil of vitriol into three pails of water, make it blood-warm, then put in the goods and handle them for one minute ; then take them out and rinse them in two clean waters. For drying, stiffening and pressing dresses, see pages 5, 6 and 7 . To Color a Bright Navy Blue on White, Light Blue, Lavender, or any Light Grey Woolen Goods. For cleaning woolen goods before dyeing see page 9. For two pounds of goods use 4 pails of water, and put in two ounces of cudbear mixed up well in to a paste, boil ten min- utes, then put in your goods and boil them for fifteen min- utes; handle and air them well while in the dye, then take them out and rinse them in one clean water ; rinse out the kettle and put in four pails of clean water, also three table- spoonsful of dissolved Nicholson blue (for dissolving Nichol- son blue see page 8) ; stir it up well and boil for two min- utes, then put in two ounces of sal-soda, stir it up well and let it dissolve, then put in the goods and boil them slowly for twenty minutes ; keep handling and airing them all the while ; then take them out and rinse them in two clean CLEANSING AND COLORING BOOK. waters ; then rinse out your kettle and put in four pails of water and two tablespoon sful of oil of vitriol, stir up well and make it hand-warm, put in the goods and handle them for one minute, then take them out and rinse them in two clean cold waters. For drying, stiffening and pressing dresses, pages 5, 6 and 7. For drying and pressing shawls, see pages 5 and 7. To Color a Navy Blue on Red Woolen Goods. For cleaning woolen goods before dyeing see page 9. For two pounds of goods use four pails of water, make the water boil, then put in two and one-half tablespoon sful of dissolved Nicholson blue (for dissolving Nicholson blue, see page 8) ; add two ounces of sal-soda, stir it up well and let it boil two minutes, then put in the goods and boil them slowly for twenty minutes ; keep stirring them well all the while ; then take them out and rinse them in two waters, rinse out the kettle, put in four pails of clean water, also two tablespoon sful of oil of vitriol, stir it up and make it hand- warm, then put in the goods and handle them well for one minute ; take them out and rinse them in two waters. For drying, stiffening and pressing dresses, see pages 5, 6 and 7. For drying and pressing shawls, see pages 5 and 7. To Color Navy Blue on White, Pink, Light Blue, Light Grey> Lavender, or Light Green Woolen Goods. For making up and cleaning woolen goods before dyeing, see pages 5 and 9. For two pounds of goods use four pails of water, four ounces of cudbear made into a paste and eight 54 SCIENTIFIC AND RELIABLE ounces of logwood chips tied in a thin cotton cloth bag ; boil these dye-stuffs fifteen minutes, then take out the bag and put in the goods ; boil, handle them and air them for fifteen minutes, then take them out and rinse them in one water ; fill up the kettle with four pails of clean water, boil it and put in two ounces of sal soda and three tablespoonsful of dissolved Nicholson blue (for dissolving Nicholson blue, see page 8) ; boil this dye two minutes, then put in the goods, boil them slowly and stir them well for twenty minutes ; then take them out and rinse them in one water ; now put four more pails of water into the kettle, also two tablespoons- ful of oil of vitriol, stir it up well and make it hand-warm, then put in the goods and handle them around as quick as you can for one minute ; rinse them in two waters. For dry- ing, stiffening and pressing dresses, see pages 5, 6 and 7. For drying and pressing shawls, see pages 5 and 7. To Color a Full Pink on White Woolen Goods. For cleaning woolen goods before dyeing, see page 9. For one pound of goods use two pails of water, make it boil, then put in two teaspoonsful of dissolved red aniline (for dissolving red aniline, see page 9) ; stir up the dye and put in the goods, boil and handle them well for fifteen min- utes, or until the color is evenly distributed, then take them out and rinse them in one water. For drying, stiffening and pressing dresses, see pages 5, 6 and 7. CLEANSING AND COLOKING BOOK. 55 To Color Crimson on White, Pink, Lavender, Light Blue or Light Grey Woolen Goods. For making up and cleaning woolen goods before dyeing, see pages 5 and 9. For two pounds of goods use four pails of water, put in three tablespoonsful of dissolved red aniline (for dissolving red aniline, see page 9) ; let it boil one minute^ then put in the goods, boil and handle them well for twenty minutes ; if the color is not full enough then, take out the goods and put in another spoonful of the red aniline, put the goods in again and boil until they have acquired the desired shade, then take them out and rinse them well. For drying, stiffening and pressing dresses, see pages 5, 6 and 7. For dry- ing and pressing shawls, see pages 5 and 7. To Color Cardinal on White Woolen Goods. For making up and cleaning woolen goods before dyeing, see pages 5 and 9. For two pounds of goods use four pails of water, make it boil, then put in three tablespoonsful of dissolved red aniline (for dissolving red aniline, see page 9) ; add one-quarter pound of turmeric ; let this dye boil two minutes, put in the goods when it has ceased boiling, and after handling the goods in the dye for a minute, boil it again for twenty minutes, handling and airing the goods well all the while ; then take them out and rinse them well. For drying, stiffening, and pressing dresses, see pages 5, 6 and 7. For drying, and pressing shawls, see pages 5 and 7. 66 SCIENTIFIC AND KELIABLE To Color Scarlet (not a Fast Color) on White Woolen Goods that are Plaided or Striped with Other Colors. (The Fast Scarlet will Color only on Plain White.) For making up and cleaning goods, see pages 5 and 9. For two pounds of goods use four pails of water, make it boil, then put in one and one-half tablespoonsf ul of dissolved red aniline (for dissolving red aniline, see page 9) ; add one- quarter pound of turmeric ; let the dye boil one minute, and when it has ceased boiling, put in the goods, and handle for one minute, then boil the goods for twenty minutes, handling and airing them all the while ; then take them out and rinse them well. For drying, stiffening and pressing dresses, see pages 5, 6 and 7. For drying and pressing shawls see pages 5 and 7. To Color Garnet on White Pink, Light Blue, Light Green, Lavender, or any Light Grey Woolen Goods. For making up and cleaning woolen goods before dyeing, see pages 5 and 9. For two pounds of goods use four pails of water, make it boil, then put in one-half pound of hypernic and one-quarter pound of turmeric; let these dye-stuffs boil for ten minutes, then add three tablespoonsful of dissolved red aniline (for dissolving red aniline, see page 9) ; stir up the dye well, let it cease boiling, and put in the goods, handle the goods for one minute, then let them boil for twenty min- utes, handle and air them all the time ; then take them out and rinse them. For drying, stiffening and pressing dresses see pages 5, 6 and 7. For drying and pressing shawls, see pages 5 and 7. CLEANSING AND COLORING BOOK. 57 To Color Maroon on Light Colored Woolen Goods. For making up and cleaning woolen goods before dyeing, see pages 5 and 9. For two pounds of goods use four pails of water, make it boil, and then put in one-quarter pound of logwood chips, one-half pound of hypernic, one ounce of blue vitriol and one-quarter pound of turmeric (put these dye-stuffs into a thin cotton cloth bag) ; boil twenty min- utes, then take out the bag and put in three tablespoonsful of dissolved red aniline (for dissolving red aniline, see page 9) ; stir it up well, let it cease boiling, then put in the goods and handle them well for two minutes, then boil them for twenty minutes, and handle and air them well all the time ; take them out and rinse them well in two waters. For dry- ing, stiffening and pressing dresses, see pages 5, 6 and 7- For drying and pressing shawls, see pages 5 and 7. To Color Plum Color on Light Colored Woolen Goods. For making up and cleaning woolen goods before dyeing, see pages 5 and 9. For two pounds of goods, use four pails of water, make it boil, and put in twelve ounces of logwood chips and twelve ounces of hypernic tied up into a small thin cotton cloth bag, let it boil twenty minutes, then take out the bag and put in three tablespoonsful of dissolved violet aniline (for dissolving violet aniline, see page 9) ; let the dye cease boiling, stir it up and put in the goods, handle them well for two minutes ; then boil the goods for twenty min- utes, handling them all the time ; take them out and rinse them well in two waters. For drying, stiffening and pressing dresses, see pages 5, 6 and 7. For drying and pressing shawls see pages 5 and 7. SCIENTIFIC AND RELIABLE To Color Wine Color on Light Colored Woolen Goods. For making up and cleaning woolen goods before dyeing, see pages 5 and 9. For two pounds of goods use four pails of water, make it boil and put in twelve ounces of logwood chips and twelve ounces of hy pernio tied up in a small thin cotton cloth bag, let it boil twenty minutes, then take out the bag and put in three tablespoonsful of dissolved red ani- line (for dissolving red aniline, see page 9); then let the dye cease boiling, stir it up well, put in the goods and handle them well for two minutes, then boil them for twenty min- utes and handle and air them well all the time; take therq, out and rinse them well in two waters. For drying, stiffen- ing and pressing dresses, see pages 5, 6 and 7. For drying and pressing shawls, see pages 5 and 7. To Color Lavender on White Woolen Goods. For making up and cleaning woolen goods before dyeing, see pages 5 and 9. For two pounds of goods use four pails of water, make it boil, then put in one tablespoonsful dis-^ solved violet aniline (for dissolving violet aniline see page 9), stir it up well ; let it cease boiling, then put in the goods and handle them, well, then let them boil for fifteen minutes, stirring them well all the time ; if not dark enough then, take out the goods and put in one-half tablespoonful more violet aniline, stir it up well and put the goods in again, boil and handle them until they have acquired the shade you desire, then take them out and rinse them in one water. For drying, pressing and stiffening dresses, see pages 5, 6 and 7, For drying and pressing shawls, see pages 5 and 7, CLEANSING AND COLORING BOOK. 59 To Color Purple on White, Pink, Light Grey, or Light Blue Woolen Goods. For making up and cleaning woolen goods before dyeing, see pages 5 and 9. For two pounds of goods use four pails of water, make it boil, then put in about three tablespoons- ful of dissolved violet aniline (for dissolving violet aniline, see page 9) stir up the dye well and let it cease from boiling, then put in the goods and handle them well for two minutes, then boil them for twenty minutes, handling and airing them all the time ; if the color is not dark enough then, take out the goods and put in two ounces of blue vitriol, stir up the dye well for ten minutes, or until the blue vitriol is dissolved, then put in the goods and boil them until they have ac- quired the desired shade; take them out and rinse them well in two waters. For drying, stiffening and pressing dresses, see pages 5, 6 and 7. For dr}dng and pressing shawls, see pages 5 and 7. To Color Scarlet (a Fast Color) on White Woolen Goods. For making up and cleaning woolen goods before dyeing, see pages 5 and 9. For one pound of goods use two pails of water, boil this in a clean copper or tin kettle, and put in one and one-half ounces of fine ground cochineal, one tea- spoonful of muriate of tin and one ounce of oxalic acid ; let these dye-stuffs boil one minute. Put the goods through hand-warmed water, let the dye cease boiling, then handle the goods two minutes ; then boil and handle them, until they have acquired the desired shade ; take them out and 60 SCIENTIFIC AND RELIABLE rinse them well in three separate waters. For drying, stiffen- ing and pressing dresses, see pages 5, 6 and 7. For drying and pressing shawls, see pages 5 and 7. To Color Drab on White Woolen Goods. For making up and cleaning woolen goods before dyeing, see pages 5 and 9. For two pounds of goods use four pails of water ; boil in a clean kettle, then put in one ounce of bi- chromate of potash ; when this is dissolved (which will take about five minutes), stir it up well, and put in the goods, boil and handle them well for twenty minutes, then take out the goods and rinse them in one water. Rinse out the kettle and put in four pails of water, make this boil, then put in two table spoonsful of logwood chips, one tablespoon- ful of fustic chips and one-half tablespoonful of hypernic, (tie these in a small thin cotton cloth bag) ; boil these for fifteen minutes, then take out the bag and let the dye cease boiling, put in the goods and handle them for ten minutes, then boil them fifteen minutes ; take them out and rinse in two waters. For drying, stiffening and pressing dresses, see pages 5, 6 and 7. For drying and pressing shawls, see pages 5 and 7. To Color Stone Color on White Woolen Goods. For making up and cleaning woolen goods before dyeing, see pages 5 and 9. For two pounds of goods use four pails of water, boil this in a clean kettle, then put in one ounce of bi-chromate of potash; when this is dissolved (which will take about five minutes), stir it up well and put in the CLEANSING AND COLORING BOOK. 61 • joods, boil and handle them well for twenty minutes, then i ;ake them ont and rinse in two waters ; then rinse out your kettle and put in four pails of water, make it boil and put n two tablespoonsful of logwood chips and one tablespoon- Eul of hypernic ; tie these dye-stuffs up in a thin cotton cloth bag and boil fifteen minutes, then take out the bag and let the dye cease boiling, then put in the goods and handle them well for ten minutes, then boil and handle them well for fifteen minutes ; take them out and rinse them in two waters. For drying, stiffening and pressing dresses, see pages (5, 6 and 7. For drying and pressing shawls, see pages 5 and 7. To Color a Slate Color on Light Colored Woolen Goods. For making up and cleaning woolen goods before dyeing, see pages 5 and 9. This color is obtained in the same way as stone color, described in last recipe, except that four table- spoonsful of logwood should be used, and no hypernic. For drying, stiffening and pressing dresses, see pages 5, 6 and 7. For drying and pressing shawls see pages 5 and 7. To Color a Light Green on White Woolen Goods. For cleaning woolen goods before dyeing see page 9, For two pounds of goods use four pails of water, put in eight ounces of fustic chips tied up in a small thin cotton bag ; add three ounces of alum and boil for twenty minutes ; then take out the bag and put in three tablespoonsful of indi- go paste, boil it for ten minutes, then let it cease boiling and 62 SCIENTIFIC AND RELIABLE stir it up well, then put in the goods and handle them well for ten minutes ; then boil them until they have acquired the desired shade ; then take them out and rinse them in two waters. For drying, stiffening and pressing dresses, see pages 5, 6 and 7. For drying and pressing shawls, see pages 5 and 7. To Color Myrtle Green on White, Pink, Light Blue, Grey, Green, Lavender Woolen Goods. For making up and cleaning woolen goods before dyeing, see pages 5 and 9. For two pounds of goods use four pails of water ; put in one tablespoonful of oil of vitriol, make it boil, then put in eight ounces of fustic chips and four ounces of logwood chips tied up in a small thin cotton cloth bag ; add two ounces of alum, and let these boil for twenty min- utes, then take out the bag and put in one-half pint of indigo paste, boil ten minutes and stir it up well, let it cease boiling and put in the goods, handle them for ten minutes, then let them boil until they have acquired the desired shade, handle and air them all the time ; then take them out and rinse them in two waters. For drying, stiffening and pressing dresses see pages 5, 6 and 7. For drying and pressing shawls, see pages 5 and 7. To Color a Dark Green on Brown Woolen Goods. For making up and cleaning woolen goods before dyeing, see pages 5 and 9. For two pounds of goods use four pails of water, put in two tablespoonsful of oil of vitriol, make it boil, then put in three ounces of fustic chips and one-half CLEANSING AND COLORING BOOK. pint of indigo paste, let these dye stuffs boil for ten minutes ind stir them well while boiling, then let the dye cease boil- pig and put in the goods, handle them well for ten minutes, ,hen boil them until they have acquired the shade ; take them ian4 rinse them in two waters. For drying, stiffening ind pressing dresses,, see pages 5, 6 and 7. For drying and pressing sb&wk, se ( e pages 5 and f. To Color a Myrtle Green on Dark Blue or Purple Woolen Goods. For making up and cleaning woolen goods before dyeing, $ee pages 5 and 9. For two pounds of goods use four pails of water, put in one tablespoonful of oil of vitriol, make this boil, then put in eight ounces of fustic chips and four ounces of logwood chips tied in a small thin cotton cloth bag ; add four ounces of alum, and let these dye-stuffs boil for twenty ixinutes, then take out the bag and put in three tablespoons- hi of indigo paste, stir it up well and boil for ten minutes; :hen let it cease boiling and put in the goods and handle ;hem well for ten minutes ; then boil them until they have icquired the desired shade; take them out and rinse them n two clean waters. For drying, stiffening and pressing Iresses, see pages 5, 6 and 7. For drying and pressing shawls, see pages 5 and 7. To Color a Bottle Green on White, Pink, Blue, Light Grey, Lavender, or Green Woolen Goods. For making up and cleaning woolen goods before dyeing, >ee pages 5 and 9, For two pounds of goods use four pails 64 SCIENTIFIC AND RELIABLE of water, put in one tablespoonf ul of oil of vitriol and make it boil, then put in eight ounces of fustic chips and eight : ounces of logwood chips tied up in a small thin cotton cloth bag, add four ounces of alum and boil for twenty minutes J then take out the bag and put in one and one-half pints of indigo paste, stir it up well and boil ten minutes ; let it cease] boiling and put in the goods, handle them well ten minutes, then boil them for twenty minutes ; take them out and rinsei them in two waters. For drying, stiffening and pressing dresses, see pages 5, 6 and 7. For drying and pressing shawls, see pages 5 and 7. To Color Chocolate on White Woolen Goods. For making up and cleaning woolen goods before dyeing, see pages 5 and 9. For four pounds of goods use six pails of water, put in four ounces of ground sandal wood, two ounces of sumac, one ounce of logwood chips and one ounce of cudbear, let this boil and stir it up well, then let it cease, boiling and put in the goods and handle them well; then boil them for one hour, handling them and airing them all the time ; then take them out and cool them well ; put one ounce of copperas into the dye, stir it up until dissolved,: then put in the goods and boil them slowly for half an hour;] do not air them much, but stir them well under the dye, the take them out, cool them and rinse them in two waters. Fo drying, stiffening and pressing dresses, see pages 5, 6 and 7. For drying and pressing shawls, see pages 5 and 7. CLEANSING AND COLORING BOOK. 65 To Color Havana on White Woolen Goods. For making up and cleaning woolen goods before dyeing, (see pages 5 and 9. For four pounds of goods use six pails of water, make it boil and put in two ounces of bi-chromate of potash stir it up until dissolved, then let it cease boiling and put in the goods and handle them for three-quarters of an hour, then take them out and rinse them in one water ; then put six pails of clean water into the kettle and make it boil, put in ten ounces of catechu cut up in small pieces and boil and stir it until dissolved, then put in one-half ounce of powdered nut gall, stir it up well, put in the goods and boil and handle them for one hour, then take them out and cool them ; put in two ounces of blue vitriol, stir it up until dis- solved, then put in the goods and boil them slowly for half an hour, then take them out and cool and rinse them well. For drying, stiffening and pressing dresses, see pages 5, 6 and 7. For drying and pressing shawls, see pages 5 and 7. To Color Silver Grey on White Woolen Goods. For making up and cleaning woolen goods before dyeing, see pages 5 and 9. For four pounds of goods use six pails of water, make it boil, then put in three-quarters of an ounce of crushed red tartar, one-quarter of an ounce of powdered nut gall and three-quarters of an ounce of hypernic,let them boil for two minutes, then let it cease boiling, and put in the goods and handle them well, boil them one hour ; then take out the goods and cool them well ; add one-half ounce of copperas to the dye, stir it up until dissolved and put the goods in again, boil and handle them for half an hour; take them out and rinse them well. For drying, pressing and 66 H SCIENTIFIC AND RELIABLE stiffening dresses, see pages 5, 6 and 7. For drying and pressing shawls, see pages 5 and 7. To Color Grey on White Woolen Goods. For making up and cleaning woolen goods before dyeing, see pages 5 and 9. For four pounds of goods use six pails of water, make it boil, and put in two ounces of logwood chips tied in a small thin cotton cloth bag; boil for fifteen minutes, then take out the bag and put in one ounce of powdered nut gall, stir it up well and let it cease boiling, then put in the goods and handle them well ; then .boil and handle them well for one hour ; take them out and cool them well, then add one-half ounce of copperas to the dye and stir it up well until dissolved, put in the goods again boil and handle them well for half an hour ; take them out and cool and rinse them well. For drying, stiffening and pressing dresses, see pages 5, 6 and 7. For drying and pressing shawls, see pages 5 and 7. To Color Stone Color on White Woolen and Cotton (Mixed) Goods. For making up and cleaning woolen goods before dyeing, see pages 5 and 9. For four pounds of goods use six pails of water, make it boil, then put in one ounce of bi-chromate, stir it up well until dissolved, then let it cease boiling and put in the goods, handle them well, then let them boil slowly for half an hour and take them out and cool and rinse them ; put three pails of clean water into the kettle and make it boil, then put in eight ounces of logwood chips and two ounces of hypernic tied up in a small thin cotton cloth bag ; CLEANSING AND COLORING BOOK. 67 let these boil for twenty minutes, then take out the bag and pour two pails of the liquid into a tub for future use, then put five pails of water into the remaining liquid in the ket- tle, make it boil, then put in the goods and boil and handle them for twenty minutes, then take them out and cool them. Add four pails of cold water to the two pails of liquid in the tub, stir it up and put the goods into this dye while it is cold and handle them for' fifteen minutes ; then take them out and dissolve two ounces of copperas in one quart of boiling water, put this into the dye and stir it up well then put in the goods again and handle them well for fifteen minutes ; then take them out and rinse them well. For drying, stiffen- ing and pressing dresses see pages 5, 6 and 7. For drying and pressing shawls, see pages 5 and 7. i To Color Black on White or Plaid Woolen Goods, or Plaid or Striped Woolen Shawls. For making up and cleaning woolen goods before dyeing, see pages 5 and 9. For four pounds of goods use six pails of water, make this boil, then put in four ounces of bi-chro- mate of potash, stir up well for ten minutes, then let it cease boiling and put in the goods, handle them well for five min- utes, then boil and handle them well for one hour, then take them out and rinse them in two separate waters. Einse out the kettle and put in six pails of clean water, also three pounds of good logwood chips, and six ounces of fustic chips (tie these in a small thin cotton cloth bag), and boil for twen- ty minutes, then let it cease boiling, leave the bag in the dye and put in the goods, boil them for half an hour, handling and airing them all the time, then take them out and cool 68 SCIENTIFIC AND RELIABLE them ; put five pails of clean water into the kettle, dissolve six ounces of chlorate of lime in a pail of boiling water, let it settle a few minutes, and when the water is hand-warm, pour the clear liquid off into the warm water in the kettle, stir it up well and put in the goods and handle them three min- utes ; keep a tub of water ready at hand to put the goods into after they come out of the lime, rinse them in another water, then you will have a black that will neither look brown or rub off. For drying, stiffening and pressing dresses, see pages 5, 6 and 7. For drying and pressing shawls, see pages 5 and 7. To Color Black on Green, Grey, Pink, Lavender, Light Blue, or other Light Colored Woolen Goods. For making up and cleaning woolen goods before dyeing, see pages 5 and 9. For four pounds of goods use six pails of water, make it boil, put in three ounces of bi-chromate of potash, stir it up well for ten minutes, then let it cease boiling and put in the goods and handle them well, then boil and handle them well for three-quarters of an hour ; take them out and rinse them in two waters ; then rinse out the kettle, and put in six pails of clean water, also two and one- half pounds of good logwood chips and four ounces of fustic chips tied up in a small thin cotton bag, boil them fifteen minutes ; then let the dye cease boiling and put in the goods CLEANSING AND COLORING BOOK. 69 and handle them well ; then boil, air and handle the goods for half an hour, leaving the bag in the dye all the time, then take them out and cool them ; put five pails of clean water into the kettle, dissolve four ounces of chlorate of lime in one pail of boiling water, let it settle a few minutes, make the water in the kettle handwarm, and pour the clear liquid into it, stir it up well and put in the goods and handle them well for three minutes ; keep a tub of water ready at hand to rinse the goods in after they come out of the lime, and rinse them again in another water For drying, stiffen- ing and pressing dresses, see pages 5, 6 and 7. For drying and pressing shawls, see pages 5 and 7. To Color Black on Dark Blue, Purple, Crimson, Plum, or Violet Woolen Goods. For making up and cleaning woolen goods before dyeing, see pages 5 and 9. For four pounds of goods use six pails of water ; make this boil, then put in two and one-half ounces of bi-chromate of potash, stir this up well for ten minutes, then let it cease boiling and put in the goods, handle them well before boiling them ; then boil and handle them for three-quarters of an hour; take them out and rinse them in two separate waters ; then throw the liquid out of the kettle and put in six pails of clean water, make this boil, put in two pounds of good logwood chips and six ounces 70 SCIENTIFIC AND KELIABLE of fustic chips tied in a small thin cotton cloth bag, boil fif- teen minutes, then let the dye cease boiling, leave the bag in and put in the goods, handle them well, then boil and handle them for half and hour, take them out and cool them well; put five pails of clean water into the kettle and make it hand-warm, then dissolve six ounces of chlorate of lime in a pail of boiling water, let it settle a few minutes, then pour the clear liquid off into the kettle of hand-warm water, stir it up well, put in the goods and handle them well for three or four minutes ; keep a tub of water ready to put them into when they are taken out of the lime, and rinse them in one more water. For drying, stiffening and pressing dresses, see pages 5, 6 and 7. For drying and pressing shawls, see pages 5 and 7. To Color Black on Brown, Wine or Olive Woolen Goods. For making up and cleaning woolen goods before dyeing, see pages 5 and 9. For four pounds of goods use six pails of water, make this boil, put in two ounces of bi-chromate ? stir it up well for ten minutes, then put in the goods and boil and handle them well for half an hour, then take them out, cool them well and rinse them in two waters ; then throw the liquid out and put in six pails of water, let this boil, then put in two and one-half pounds of good logwood chips tied in a small thin cotton cloth bag, boil fifteen min- utes, then let the dye cease boiling, put in one ounce of sal- soda, stir it up well, then put in the goods and handle them well for ten minutes, then let the goods boil for half an hour without taking out the bag, handle them well at the of CLEANSING AND COLORING BOOK. 71 , I same time ; then take out the goods and cool them, well, then throw out the contents of the kettle and put in five J pails of clean water, make this hand- warm ; then dissolve four ounces of chlorate of lime in one pail of boiling water, let it settle a few minutes, then pour off the clear liquid into the kettle of hand- warm water, stir it up, and put in the goods, and handle them well for three minutes ; keep a tub of clean water ready at hand to rinse them in when they come out of the lime, then rinse them in another water. For 6 or drying, stiffening and pressing dresses, see pages 5, 6 and 7. For drying and pressing shawls, see pages 5 and 7. ee To Re-Dye Faded Black Woolens or Bombazines. For making up and cleaning woolen goods before dyeing see pages 5 and 9. For two pounds of goods use four pails i of water ; make it boil and put in one ounce of bi-chromate of potash, stir it up well for ten minutes, then let it cease ? boiling and put in the goods and boil and handle them ■? well for fifteen minutes ; then take them out and rinse .. them ; put four pails of clean water into the kettle and make j it boil, then put in eight ounces of good logwood chips tied n in a small thin cotton cloth bag and boil ten minutes ; let it cease boiling, then put in the goods, boil, handle and • air them for fifteen minutes, without taking out the bag ; ] then take out the goods and put in three pails of clean water, make it hand-warm ; dissolve one and one-half ounces of chlorate of lime in one-half pail of boiling water, let this _ settle a few minutes, then pour off the clear liquid into the hand-warm water in the kettle, stir it up well and put e the goods in, handle them well for two minutes ; keep a 72 SCIENTIFIC AND KELIABLE tub of water ready at hand to rinse them in when they are taken out of the lime, then rinse them in another water. For drying, stiffening and pressing dresses, see pages 5, 6 and 7. For drying and pressing shawls see pages 5 and 7. To Color Black on Green, Drab, Light Blue or any kind of Grey Wool and Cotton (Mixed) Goods. For making up and cleaning woolen goods before dj^eing, : see pages 5 and 9. For four pounds of goods use five pails of \ water ; and the day before you intend to color put in one and one-half pound of logwood chips and one-half pound of fustic chips tied up in a thin cotton cloth bag ; boil these dye-stuffs for half an hour, then take out the bag and pour the liquid into a tub, and let it be cold when you use it] Then put six pails of clean water into the kettle, and when you are ready to color, make this hot and clean the| goods, rinse them and fill up the kettle again with water ; then put the goods into the cold liquid for twenty minutes and handle them well; when the water in the kettle is boil- ing take out about one gallon and dissolve three-quarters of a pound of copperas in it ; then take the goods out of the cold dye and throw the dye away ; put five pails of clean water into the tub and put the copperas into this when it is dissolved, stir it up well and put in the goods, handle them for fifteen minutes ; dissolve two ounces of bi-chromate of potash in the kettle of boiling water, rinse the goods in one water after taking them out of the copperas, then put them into the kettle and boil them slowly for half an hour ; then take them out, cool them well and rinse them ; then throw out the contents of the kettle and put in six pails of clean water, make it boil, then put in two pounds of logwood W. H. GLENNY & CO. G. B. WATKINS, MANAGER. — IMPORTERS — Decor&Ied # E&rHien v&re, ARTISTIC POTTERY, RICH CUT GLASS, ROGERS' PLATED WARE. I Gorl&m Sterling Silver & Specialty. * 190-194 East Main Street, ROCHESTER, N. Y. ^VETERAN** BAKING POWDER Absolute Purity Guaranteed. Once Tried Always Used. MANUFACTURED BY FRENCH, PALMER & FRENCH, Rochester, N . Y, One Pound Can, 20 Cents. Half Pound Can, - - - - 10 " Quarter Pound Can, - - - ■ - 5 " A. COLLYER, Sole Agent for East Rochester, Who will Refund Your Money if not Satisfactory. GREAT SAVING IN CLOTHES, TIME, LABOR, AND MONEY BY USING — White Swan SOAP 1ST IT MAKES WASHING- EASY UiEJ WASHES WITH OR WITHOUT BOILING. The White Swan Soap is strictly pure and is made by an entirely new process, retaining the glycerine and saponifying it into the soap, which gives it superior cleansing strength and mildness. The White Swan Soap contains NO ROSIN, NO POISONOUS COLORING MATTER, NO SAL SODA or ACIDS of any kind. The WHITE SWAN SOAP is the Best and Cheapest Soap IN THE WORLD FOR ALL USES. Directions for Using White Swan Soap WITHOUT BOILING THE CLOTHES. Have the water just- warm enough-to hold your hand in comfortably ; then put your clothes in, drawing out one at a time on the wash-board and rub the soap over it lightly being careful to soap all the soiled places ;then roll up snugly as you would when sprinkled for honing, and lay in the tub under water ; let them remain there for twenty or thirty minutes ; then rub them lightly on the wash-board, and the dirt comes out. If, however, any streaks are hard to wash out, rub more soap in, and put back in the tub for a few min- utes ; next rinse in luke-warm water, washing every place lightly on the wash-board, with- out any more soap, and be sure to get all the dirty suds out. Rinse and hang out in the usual way. The White Swan Soap used in th« Starch, makes a very fine polish Ask your grocer for it. MANUFACTURED BY FLOWER CITY SOAP CO., 500, 502 and 504 Exchange Street ROCHESTER, N. Y. CLEANSING AND COLOKING- BOOK. 73 chips and one-half pound of fustic chips tied in a small thin cotton cloth bag, boil for fifteen minutes, then let it cease boiling and put in the goods, handle them well for ten minutes, then boil them slowly and handle them for half an hour, let the bag remain in the kettle all the time ; then take out the goods and rinse them in one water ; then throw out the contents of the kettle, put in four pails of water and make it boil, then put in 6 ounces of starch mixed with cold water, stir it up and remove the kettle from the fire ; then put in the goods and handle them well for ten minutes ; then take them out, cool and shake them well and hang them to dry. They will require no other stiffening. For drying, and pressing dresses, see pages 5 and 7. For drying and pressing shawls, see pages 5 and 7. To Color Black on Brown Wool and Cotton (Mixed) Goods. For making up and cleaning goods before dyeing, see pages 5 and 9. For four pounds of goods use six pails of water, make this boil, and put in two ounces of bichrom- ate of potash, stir it up well for ten minutes, then let it cease boiling and put in the goods and handle them well for ten minutes, then boil them for twenty minutes and stir and air them well, then take them out and rinse them in two waters. Throw out the contents of the kettle, put in six pails of water and make it boil, then pat in three pounds of logwood chips tied up in a small thin cotton cloth bag and boil for fifteen minutes, then let it cease from boiling and put in the goods and handle them well for ten minutes; then boil them slowly for twenty minutes, handle and air them at the same 10 74 SCIENTIFIC AND RELIABLE time, then take them out and rinse them ; throw out the con- tents of the kettle and put in four pails of water, make it boil ; put six ounces of starch into one quart of cold water, mix it up well and put it into the kettle, boil for one minute then let it cease boiling and put in the goods, handle them well for ten minutes, then take them out and cool and shake them, and hang them to dry. They will require no further stiffening. For drying, and pressing dresses, see pages 5 and 7. For drying and pressing shawls, see pages 5 and 7. To Color Black on Dark Blue, Purple or Plum Wool and Cotton (Mixed) Goods. For making up and cleaning goods before dyeing, see pages 5 and 9. For four pounds of goods use five pails of water ; and the day before you intend to color put in one pound of good logwood chips and one pound of fustic chips tied up in a thin cotton cloth bag ; boil these dye-stuffs for half an hoar, then take out the bag and pour the liquid into a tub, and let it be cold when yon use it. Then pat six pails of clean water into the kettle, and when you are ready to color, make this hot and clean the goods, rinse them and fill up the kettle again with water ; then put the goods into the cold liquid for twenty minutes and handle them well; when the water in the kettle is boil- ing take out about one gallon and dissolve three-quarters of a pound of copperas in it ; then take the goods out of the cold dye and throw the dye away ; put five pails of clean CLEANSING AND COLORING BOOK. 76 water into the tub and put the copperas into this when it is •dissolved, stir it up well and put in the goods, handle them for fifteen minutes ; dissolve two ounces of bi-chromate of potash in the kettle of boiling water, rinse the goods in one water after taking them out of the copperas, then put them into the kettle and boil them slowly for half an hour ; then take them out, cool them well and rinse them ; then throw out the contents of the kettle and put in six pails of clean water, make it boil, then put in one and one-half pounds of logwood chips and one pound of fustic chips tied up in a small thin cotton cloth bag, boil for fifteen minutes, then let the dye cease boiling and put in the goods and boil and handle them for half an hour without taking out the bag; then take them out and cool them well ; throw out the con- tents of the kettle and put in five pails of clean water, make it lukewarm, then dissolve one and one-half ounces of chlor- ate of lime in one-half pail of boiling water, let it settle a few minutes, then pour off the clear liquid into the kettle, stir it up, put in the goods and handle them about two minutes. Keep a tub of water ready at hand to rinse them in when they are taken out of the lime, then rinse them in another water and hang them to dry, then if they look well, stiffen them with glue (see page 6) ; but should they look rusty or brown, stiffen them with starch in the following way : mix six ounces of starch in one quart of cold water, put this into four pails of boiling water, stir it up, then take the kettle off the fire and put in the goods and handle them well for ten minutes; take them out, cool and shake them well and hang them to dry. For drying, and pressing dresses, see pages 5 and 7. For drying and pressing shawls see pages 5 and 7, 76 SCIENTIFIC AND KELIABLE To Re-Dye Faded Black Wool and Cotton Goods. For making up and cleaning goods before dyeing, . see pages 5 and 9. For four pounds of goods use six pails of water, make it boil and put in one ounce of bi-chromate of potash stir it up until dissolved, then let it cease boiling and put in the goods and handle them well before you boil them, then boil and handle them for fifteen minutes, then take them out and cool them ; rinse them well in two waters ; put six pails of clean water into the kettle, also three-quarters of a pound of logwood chips tied up in a thin cloth cotton bag, boil for ten minutes, then let it cease boil- ing and put in the goods, handle them well and let them boil slowly for twenty minutes without taking out the bag, then take out the goods and rinse them in one water ; throw away the contents of the kettle and put in five pails of clean water, boil this, then dissolve five ounces of starch in one quart of cold water, put this into the five pails of boiling water, stir it up well, then take the kettle off the fire and put in the goods and handle them well for ten minutes; take them out, cool and shake them well and hang them to dry. They will require no other stiffening. For drying, and pressing dresses see pages 5 and 7. To Color Black on Green, Light Blue, and all kinds of Grey Wool and Silk [Mixed] Goods. [Not Poplin]. For making up and cleaning goods before dyeing, see pages 5 and 9. For four pounds of goods use five pails of water ; and the day before you intend to color put in one pound of good logwood chips and four ounces of fustic chips tied up in a thin cotton cloth bag ; boil these dye-stuffs for twenty minutes, then take out the bag and pour CLEANSING AND COLORING BOOK. 77 the liquid into a tub, and let it be cold when you use it Then pat six pails of clean water into the kettle, and when you are ready to color, make this hot and clean the goods, rinse them and fill up the kettle again with water ; then put the goods into the cold liquid for twenty minutes and handle them well; then throw the dye out and put five pails of water into the tub ; when the water in the kettle is boiling, take out about one gallon and dissolve six ounces of copperas in it ; pour this into the cold water in the tub, stir it up well and put in the goods, handle them well for ten minutes, then take them out and rinse them in one water; then put two ounces of bi-chromate of potash, into the boil- ing water in the kettle, stir this up well until it is dissolved, then let it cease boiling and put in the goods, handle them well before boiling them ; then boil them slowly and handle for forty minutes, then take them out, cool them and rinse them in two waters ; then rinse out the kettle, and put in six pails of clean water, also two pounds of good logwood chips and four ounces of fustic chips, tie up these dye-stuffs in a small thin cotton cloth bag, and boil them for fifteen minutes ; then let the dye cease boiling and put in the goods and handle them well ; then boil them slowly for half an hour, leaving the bag in the dye all the time, then take them out and cool and air them ; put five pails of water into the kettle, make it luke-warm ; then dissolve two ounces of chlorate of lime in one-half pail of boiling water, let it settle a few minutes ; pour the clear liquid into the luke-warm water in the kettle, stir it up well and put in the goods and handle them well for two minutes, rinse them in two water immediately after coming out of the lime. 78 SCIENTIFIC AND KELIABLE To Color Black on Brown Wool and Silk (Mixed) Goods, but not Poplin. For making up and cleaning goods before dyeing, see pages 5 and 9. For four pounds of goods use six pails of water; make this boil, then put in one ounce of bi- chromate of potash, stir this up well until it is dissolved, then let it cease boiling and put in the goods, handle them well before boiling them ; then boil them slowly and handle for twenty minutes, then take them out and cool and rinse them in two waters ; then rinse out the kettle, and put in six pails of clean water, also two pounds of good logwood chips tied up in a small thin cotton bag, boil them fifteen minutes ; then let the dye cease boiling and put in one ounce of sal-soda, stir it up well and put in the goods and handle them well ; then boil them slowly, and handle the goods for half an hour, leaving the bag in the dye all the time then take them out and cool them ; put five pails of clean water into the kettle, make it hike-warm ; then dissolve two ounces of chlorate of lime in one-half pail of boiling water, let it settle a few minutes ; pour the clear liquid into the hike- warm water in the kettle, stir it up well and put in the goods and handle them well for two minutes, keep a tub of water ready at hand to rinse the goods in after they come out of the lime and rinse them again in another water For drying, stiffening and pressing dresses, see pages 5, 6 and 7. For drying and pressing shawls, see pages 5 and 7. CLEANSING AND COLORING BOOK. To Color Black on White Corduroy, Stockings or other Cotton Goods. For four pounds of new goods use six pails of water, make this boil and put in two ounces of sal-soda, put in the goods and boil them for half an hour, then take them out aud rinse i them in one cold water; if the goods are old, this is not ils necessary, if they are soaked in hot water it will do. Take one pound of ground sumach, put this into a pail of water I, and boil for one minute, then put this into a tub with i five pails of cold water, stir it up well and put in the goods, e handle them well for ten minutes, then push them under the ?e liquid and keep them so during the night, then take them in out and hang them to drain ; then throw away the contents i of the tub, then get four pails of water and make it boil; dissolve one pound of copperas in one pail of the ie boiling water, when this is done, put into the kettle three e pounds of good logwood chips and one pound of fustic 1 chips tied up in a small thin cotton cloth bag, boil this for three-quarters of an hour ; then put four pails of in cold water into the tub and put in the dissolved copperas •o and stir it up well ; put in the goods and handle them well for half an hour, then take them out and drain them for a e few minutes, then throw away the contents of the tub and • rinse it out, and rinse the goods in three separate waters ; ib when the dye-stuffs in the bag are boiled sufficiently, take • out the bag and cool the liquid with two pails of cold water, , r stir it up well and put in the goods, handle them as quick as , you can for about five minutes (this is necessary to prevent 5 the dye from coloring unevenly) ; keep them in the dye for half an hour, then* take ' them out and rinse them in two 80 SCIENTIFIC AND RELIABLE separate waters. Throw away the contents of the kettle and put in four pails of water, make this boil, then put in one- half pound of starch mixed well in one quart of cold water, then pour it into the boiling water, stir it up well, then take the kettle off the fire and put in the goods, handle them well for ten minutes, then take them out, cool and shake them well and hang them to dry ; when dry press the corduroy on the wrong side and brush it well on the right side. Other cotton goods may be pressed with a cloth between the goods and the iron. To Re-Dye Faded Black Wool and Silk (Mixed) Goods. For making up and cleaning goods before dyeing, see pages 5 and 9. For two pounds of goods use four pails of water, make it boil, put in one-half ounce of bi-chromate of potash, stir it up until dissolved, then put in the goods and handle them well, boil them slowly for fifteen minutes, then take them out and cool them well and rinse them; throw out the contents of the kettle and put in four pails of clean water, make this boil, then put in ten ounces of logwood chips tied up in a thin cotton cloth bag, boil this for ten minutes, then let it cease boiling, and put in the goods ; boil them slowly and handle them for twenty minutes without taking out the bag, take out the goods and cool them well ; throw out the contents of the kettle and put in four pails of clean water, make it lukewarm ; then dissolve one ounce of chlorate of lime in one gallon of boiling water, let this settle a few minutes, pour the clear liquid off into the warm CLEANSING AND COLORING BOOK. water in the kettle, stir it up well, put in the goods and handle them well for one minute ; keep a tub of water at hand to put them into when they are taken out of the lime, then rinse them in another water. For stiffening, drying and pressing goods, see pages 5 and 7. To Color Black on all kinds of Grey Woolen Clothing, (Gentlemen's Wear), or Ladies' Sacques. For making up and cleaning goods before dyeing, see page 5 and 10. For five pounds of goods use seven pails of water, make this boil, and put in three ounces of bi-chromate of potash, stir well until dissolved, let it cease boiling and push the goods gently under the liquid, then boil them three- quarters of an hour ; be careful to keep them from getting tan- gled while boiling, as wrinkles boiled in clothing cannot be pressed out*; take them out, cool and air them well, and hang them to drain, then throw away the contents of the kettle and put in seven pails of clean water, make it boil, and while this is getting warm, rinse the goods in two waters and hang them to drain again ; then take three pounds of good logwood chips and four ounces of fustic chips tied up in a thin cotton cloth bag and boil one-half hour in the seven pails of water, then take out the bag and let the dye cease from boiling, put the goods gently under the dye and boil for one half hour, handle and air them nearly all the time, then take them out and cool and air them well ; throw away the contents of the kettle and put in six pails of clean water, make it handwarm. Dis- 11 SCIENTIFIC AND RELIABLE solve six ounces of chlorate of lime in one pail of boiling & water, let it settle a few minutes, then pour the clear liquid coc into the warm water, stir it up well and put in the goods, handle them about three minutes, or until the lining is nearly white, then take them out, let most of the lime drain out. r Rinse in three separate tubs of water immediately after drain- ing, and they will be perfectly clean. For drying and pressing, see pages 5 and 6, ■ To Color Black on Brown Woolen Clothing (Gentle- men's Wear or Ladies' Sacques). For cleaning goods before dyeing see page 10. For five pounds of goods use seven pails of water, make it boil, and put in one and one-half ounces of bi-chromate of potash, stir j ; it until dissolved, then let it cease boiling and put in the I goods, push them gently under the liquid, then boil them for one-half hour, handle and air them, well all the time. (Be careful not to get them tangled, as wrinkles boiled in cloth- ing can never be pressed out). Take them out, cool and air them well, and hang to drain. Throw away the contents of the kettle and put in seven pails of clean water ; take three pounds of logwood chips, tied in a thin cotton cloth bag, and boil one-half hour ; while this is boiling rinse the goods in two waters and hang to drain again; take out the bag and let the dye cease boiling, put in the goods and push them gently under the liquid, then boil for one-half hour, handle CLEANSING AND COLORING BOOK. 83 and air them well nearly all the time ; then take them out, cool, air and hang them to drain. Throw out the contents of the kettle, put in six pails of water, make it hand-warm, Dissolve five ounces of chlorate of lime in one pail of boil- ing water, let it settle a few minutes, then pour off all the clear liquid into the warm water, stir it well and put in the goods, handle them well for two or three minutes, or until the lining gets white again, then take them out and let the lime drain out. Have a tub of water ready at hand to rinse them in after coming out of the lime, then rinse in two other waters. For drying and pressing, see pages 5 and 6. To Color Black on Blue Black Woolen Clothing (Gen- tlemen's Wear or Ladies' Sacques). For cleaning goods before dyeing, see page 10. For five pounds of goods, use seven pails of water, make it boil, put in two ounces of bi-chromate of potash, stir it up well, let it cease boiling, then put in the goods and push them gently under the dye, then boil one-half hour, handle and air well all the time. (Be careful not to get the goods tangled, as wrinkles boiled in clothing cannot be pressed out.) Take the goods out of the dye, cool and air them well and hang to drain. Rinse out the kettle and put in seven pails of water, make it boil, take two pounds of logwood chips, four ounces of fustic chips, tie them up in a thin cotton cloth bag, put it into the water and boil one-half hour ; while this is 84 SCIENTIFIC AND EELIABLE boiling, rinse the goods in two separate waters and hang to drain again ; then take out the bag, let the dye cease boiling, put the goods under the dye and boil for one-half hour, handle and air them all the time, then take them out, cool, air and hang to drain. Rinse out the kettle and put in six pails of clean water, make this water hand-warm. Dissolve five ounces of chlorate of lime in one pail of boiling water, let this settle a few minutes then pour all the clear liquid in- to the hand-warm water in the kettle, stir it up well and put in the goods, handle them well for two or three minutes, or until the white lining of the garment becomes clean, ihen take out the goods and let most of the lime drain out. Have a tub of clean water ready at hand to put the goods into after they come out of the lime, rinse them in this water and in two other waters, then hang them to dry. For drying and pressing, see pages 5 and 6. To Re-Dye Faded Black Woolen Clothing [Gentle- men's Wear or Ladies Sacques. For cleaning goods before dyeing, see page 10. For five pounds of goods use seven pails of water, make it boil, put in one ounce of bi-chromate of potash, stir it up until dis- CLEANSING AND C0L0KING BOOK. 85 solved, let it cease boiling and put in the goods, push them gently down under the liquid, let it boil again for fifteen minutes, handle and air the goods at the same time to pre- vent them from getting tangled (if tangled they will wrinkle), take them out, cool and air them well and hang them to drain. Throw out the contents of the kettle and put in seven pails of clean water make it boil, and put in one pound, (if the goods are much faded one and one-half pounds) of log- wood chips, tie these up in a thin cloth cotton bag, boil for twenty minutes ; while this is boiling, rinse the goods in two separate waters and hang them to drain again ; when the dye-stuffs are boiled sufficiently, let it cease boiling and take out the bag, then put in the goods and push then gently down under the dye, then boil the goods for twenty minutes, handle and air them well at the same time, take them out, cool and air them well and hang them to drain. Throw out the contents of the kettle and put in six pail of clean water, make this hand-warm. Dissolve four ounces of chlorate of lime in one pail of boiling water, let it settle a few minutes, then pour off all the clear liquid into the hand-warm water, stir it up well, put in the goods, handle them well for two or three minutes, or until the lining of the garment becomes white again, then take out the goods and drain most of the lime out of them. Rinse them in three separate waters im- mediately after they are taken out of the lime, then they will be perfectly clean. For drying and pressing gentlemen's clothing, see pages 5 and 6. 86 SCIENTIFIC AND EELIABLE To Color Blue Black on White Woolen Clothing [Gen- tlemen's Wear or Ladies' Sacques.] For cleaning goods before dyeing, see page 10. For five pounds of goods use seven pails of water, make it boil, put in three ounces of bi-chromate of potash, stir until dis- solved, then let it cease boiling, and put in the goods, push them gently under the liquid and boil three-quarters of an hour, handle and air well all the time. (Be careful not to get them tangled while boiling, as wrinkles boiled in clothing cannot be pressed out) ; take them out, cool and air them, and hang them out to drain, then rinse out the kettle and put in seven pails of water, make it boil ; take one and three-quarter pounds of logwood chips, tie them up in a thin cotton cloth bag, put this into the water aud boil twenty minutes. While this is boiling rinse the goods in two waters and hang them to drain again ; then take out the bag and take five ounces of cudbear mixed in about one- half pint of water and make into a paste; put it into the boil- ing dye and boil five minutes, then let it cease boiling and put in the goods, push them gently under the dye and boil from twenty minutes to one-half hour, or until you have the desired color; then take them out, cool and air them, and hang them to drain. Einse out the kettle, put in six pails of water, make it hand- warm, dissolve two ounces of chlorate of lime in one pail of boiling water, let it settle a few min- utes, then pour off all the clear liquid into the warm water, stir it up well and put in the goods and handle them for two or three minutes, or until the white lining of the garment looks clean ; then take out the goods and let most of the CLEANSING AND COLORING BOOK. 87 lime drain out. Have a tub of water ready at hand to rinse the goods in after they come out of the lime, give them another water and they will not crock. For drying and pressing, see pages 5 and 6. To Color Blue Black on Drab or Grey Woolen Goods, [Gentlemen's Wear or Ladies' Sacques]. For cleaning goods before dyeing, see page 10. Remarks, — If the garments 3^011 wish to color are faded, they do not generally take a good blue black, as the faded parts always take five or six shades darker. Such goods will always give better satisfaction if colored a dark brown or black, but if not much faded, color as follows : For five pounds of goods use seven pails of water, make it boil, put in two ounces of bi-chromate of potash, stir this up well until it is dissolved, let it cease boiling put the goods gently under the liquid, boil for three-quarters of an hour, handle them and air them well. (Do not let the goods get tangled, as wrinkles boiled in can't be pressed out). Take them out, cool and air and hang them to drain. Then throw away the contents of the kettle and put in seven pails of water, make it boil ; take one and one-half pounds of logwood chips, put them into a small thin cotton cloth bag and boil twenty minutes in the seven pails of water ; while this is boiling, rinse the goods in two waters and hang to drain again ; take out the bag and put in three ounces of cudbear mixed in one-half pint of water until it SCIENTIFIC AND EELIABLE becomes a paste, then put it into the dye and boil for one at minute ; let it cease boiling, and put the goods gently under it the dye, boil them slowly from twenty minutes to one-half ol an hour, or until you have the desired color, then take them In out, cool and air well, and hang them to drain. Einse out r the kettle and put in six pails of water, make it hand warm h and dissolve two ounces of chlorate of lime in one pail of 01 boiling water, let it settle a few minutes, then pour all a the clear liquid into the warm water, stir it up well, put in in the goods and handle them well for two or three minutes, or tt until the white lining of the garment becomes clean, then ci take them out ; drain out most of the lime, have a tub of tl water ready at hand to rinse them in after coming out of s the lime, give them another rinsing, and they are finished. it For drying and pressing, see pages 5 and 6. To Color Blue Black on Navy Blue Woolen Sacques i or other Heavy Goods. For cleaning goods before dyeing, see page 10. For four pounds of goods use six pails of water, make it boil, put in two ounces of bi-chromate of potash, stir it up until dissolved, j then let it cease boiling and put in the goods, handle them j well, and boil them for one-half an hour ; handle and air them well to keep them open whilst boiling, then take them out, cool and air them well, and hang them to drain. Einse out the kettle, put in six pails of clean water and make it boil. If the goods have retained their color in the prepar- ; CLEANSING AND COLORING BOOK. 89 ation, take three-quarters of a pound of logwood chips, (if they have lost their color put in one and one-quarter pound of logwood chips), tie these in a thin cotton cloth bag, and boil one-half hour ; while this is boiling rinse the goods in two waters and hang to drain again; when the bag has boiled sufficiently, take it out and put in two and one-half ounces of cudbear mixed in a little water until it has become a paste, boil for one minute, then let it cease boiling and put in the goods, handle them well and boil about twenty min- tes, or until you have the desired color; then take them out, cool and air them well, and hang them to drain. Rinse out the kettle, put in five pails of water, make it hand-warm, dis- solve three ounces of chlorate of lime in one-half pail of boil- ing water, let it settle a few minutes, then pour off all the clear liquid into the warm water, stir it up well and put in the goods and handle them for about two minutes. Have a tub of water ready at hand to rinse them in after most of the lime has drained out, then rinse in two other waters, and hang to dry. For drying and pressing, see pages 5 and 6. To Color Blue Black on Red Woolen Sacques or other Heavy Goods. ~~ For cleaning goods before dyeing, see page 10. For four pounds of goods use six pails of water, make it boil, put in two ounces of bi-chromate of potash, stir until dissolved, then let it cease boiling, and put in the goods, handle them well, then boil and handle well for half an hour. Then 12 90 SCIENTIFIC AND EELIABLE take the goods out and cool and air them well, hang them to drain Throw out the contents of the kettle, put in six pails of water, make it boil ; take one and one-half pounds of log- wood chips, tie them up in a thin cotton cloth bag, put this into the water and boil for one-half hour. While this is boiling rinse the goods in two waters and hang them to drain again ; take out the bag when it has boiled sufficiently and put one ounce of sal-soda into the dye, stir it up well, then let it cease boiling and put in the goods, handle them well ; then boil them about twenty minutes, handle and air well all the time ; take them out, cool and air them well, and hang to drain. Rinse out the kettle and put in five pails of water, make it hand-warm ; dissolve three ounces of chlorate of lime in one pail of boiling water, let it settle a few min- utes, then pour the clear liquid into the warm water, stir it up well, put in the goods, handle well for about two minutes. Have a tub of water ready at hand to rinse the goods in when most of the lime is drained out. Give them another water and hang them to dry. For drying and pressing, see pages 5 an d 6 To Re-Dye Faded Blue-Black Woolen Clothing (Gen- tlemen's Wear or Ladies Sacques). For cleaning goods before dyeing, see page 10. For five pounds of goods use seven pails of water, make it boil and put in one ounce of bi-chromate of potash, stir this up well until it is dissolved, let it cease boiling put the goods gently under the liquid, boil for one-quarter of an CLEANSING AND COLORING BOOK. 91 hour, handle and air them well. (Do not let the goods get tangled, as wrinkles boiled in can't be pressed out). Take them out, cool and air and hang them to drain. Then throw away the contents of the kettle, and put in seven pails of water, make it boil ; take three-quarters of a pound of logwood chips, put them into a small thin cotton cloth bag and boil twenty minutes in the seven pails of water ; while this is boiling, rinse the goods in two waters and hang to drain again ; take out the bag and put in one ounce of sal-soda, then take one and one-half ounces of cud- bear, put a little of the hot dye upon it and work it into a paste, put this into the dye and boil one minute, stir it up well. Then let it cease boiling, put in the goods and handle them well ; then let them boil for twenty minutes, handle and air them well at the same time, take out the goods, cool and air them well, and hang them to drain again. Then throw away the contents of the kettle, put in six pails of water and make it hand-warm; dissolve one and one-half ounces of chlorate of lime in one-half pail of boiling water, let this set- tle a few minutes, then pour off all the clear liquid into the warm water and stir it up well, put in the goods and handle well for two minutes. Have a tub of water ready at hand to rinse the goods in when they come out of the lime, rinse them in another water and hang them to dry. This color will not rub off. For drying and pressing, see pages 5 and 6, To Color Black on Drab or Gray Wool and Cotton (Mixed) Clothing. [Gentlemens' Wear or Ladies' Sacques.] For cleaning goods before dyeing, see page 10. For five 92 SCIENTIFIC AND RELIABLE pounds of goods, take the day before you intend to color one and one-half pounds of logwood chips and one-quarter of a pound of fustic chips, tie these up in a thin cloth cot- ton bag, put them in six pails of water, boil for three-quar- ters of an hour, take out the bag and pour the liquid into a tub to cool. When you begin to color the next morning put seven pails of cold water into the kettle, make it hot, then take out what water you require for cleaning the goods, put back the same amount of cold water and make it boil, when the goods are cleaned and rinsed put them into the cold dye in the tub and handle them for twenty minutes, take them out and hang to drain. Throw out the contents of the tub and put in five pails of cold water; dissolve one pound of copperas in one-half pail of boiling water, put this into the tub and stir it up well, put in the goods and handle them well for fifteen minutes then take them out and let them drain a few minutes, rinse in one water and hang to drain again ; when the water in the kettle is boiling, put in three ounces of bi-chromate of potash, stir up until dissolved and put in the goods, push them gently down under the li- quid, make it boil again, and boil slowly for three-quarters of an hour, handle and air them well. (Be careful to keep them from getting tangled while boiling, as wrinkles boiled in clothing cannot be pressed out; take them out, cool and air them well, and hang them to drain, then pour the con- tents of the kettle into a tub and keep this for future use ; put in seven pails of clean water, make it boil, then take two and one-half pounds of logwood chips and four ounces of fus- tic chips tied up in a thin cotton clothbag and boil one-half hour in the seven pails of water; while this is boiling, rinse the goods in two waters and hang them to drain again; then CLEANSING AND COLORING BOOK. 93 when the dye stuffs have boiled sufficiently, let it cease boil- ing and put in the goods, push them gently down under the dye, and handle them ten minutes before boiling, then boil slowly for half an hour without taking out the bag, handle and air the goods well all the time ; take them out, cool and air them well and hang them to drain, then throw away the dye out of the kettle, and put the liquor you had put in the tub back into the kettle, and make it as hot as your hands will bear it, put in the goods and handle them about two minutes in the kettle of warm liquid, take them out and let most of the liquor drain out of them and rinse them in two or three separate waters, hang them to dry. For drying and pressing goods see pages 5 and 6. To Color Black on Dark Brown Wool and Cotton Mixed Clothing. Gentlemen's Wear, or Ladies' Sacques. For cleaning goods before dyeing, see page 10. For five pounds of goods use seven pails of water, make this boil, and put in one and one-half ounces of bi-chromate of potash, stir it up until dissolved, then let it cease boiling and put in the goods, push them gently down under the liquid, make them boil and handle and air them for twenty minutes. (Be careful not to get them tangled, as the wrinkles cannot be pressed out). When boiled take them 94 SCIENTIFIC AND RELIABLE out, cool and air well and hang them to drain. Then throw out the contents of the kettle, put in seven pails of clean water and make it boil, put in three pounds of log- wood chips tied up in a thin cotton cloth bag, boil for twen- ty minutes ; while this is boiling, rinse the goods in two waters and hang to drain ; when the bag has boiled the twenty minutes, let it cease boiling, put in the goods, push them gently down under the dye and handle them ten minutes before boiling ; then boil slowly, without tak- ing out the bag, for one-half hour, then take them out and cool and air well, hang them to drain. Throw out contents of kettle, put in six pails of water, make it hand-warm ; then dissolve two ounces of chlorate of lime in one-half pail of boiling water, let it settle a few minutes, then pour the clear liquid into the warm water, stir up well and put in the goods for about two minutes , take them out and let most of the lime drain off them, rinse well in two waters, let them drain for a time and hang to dry. For drying and pressing, see pages 5 and 6. To Color Black on Blue-Black Wool & Cotton (Mixed) Clothing [Gentlemen's Wear or Ladies Sacques.] For cleaning goods before dyeing, see page 10. For five pounds of goods use seven pails of water, make it boil, put in two ounces of bi-chromate of potash, stir it up until dis- solved, then let it cease boiling and put in ' the goods, push them gently down under the liquid, make it boil again, and boil slowly for twenty minutes, handle and air the goods well CLEANSING AND COLORING BOOK. 95 all the time. (Be careful they do not get tangled as the wrinkles made in the goods while boiling cannot be pressed out). Take out the goods, cool and air them well, and hang to drain, throw the liquid into a tub and save for future use. Put seven pails of clean water into the kettle, make it boil, and put in one and three-quarter pounds of logwood chips and four ounces of fustic chips tied up in a thin cotton cloth bag, boil these for fifteen minutes; while this is boiling rinse the goods in two waters and hang them to drain again, when the chips have boiled enough, cease boiling, put in the goods? handle them for ten minutes before boiling, then let them boil slowly for one-half hour without taking out the bag, take them out, cool and air them well and hang them to drain. Throw away the hot dye and put the liquid which is in the tub into the kettle again, make it as hot as your hands will bear it, then put in the goods and handle them for two minutes, take them out and let most of the li- quid drain off, and rinse them well in two waters ; let them drain for a time and hang them to dry. For drying and pressing, see pages 5 and 6. To Re-Dye Faded Black Wool and Cotton [Mixed] Clothing (Gentlemen's Wear or Ladies' Sacques). For cleaning goods before dyeing, see page 10. For five pounds of goods use seven pails of water, make it boil, and put in one ounce of bi-chromate of potash, stir it up until dissolved, then let it cease boiling, put in the goods and push 96 SCIENTIFIC AND EELIABLE them gently under the liquid, boil, handle and air them well for fifteen minutes. (Be careful not to tangle them while boiling, as wrinkles that are made in boiling cannot be pressed out). Take the goods out, cool and air them well, and hang them to drain ; then throw the hot liquid into a tub, and save it for future use. Put seven pails of clean water into the kettle and make it boil, then take one and one-quarter pounds of logwood chips, tie these up in a thin cotton cloth bag, and put into the kettle, boil for fifteen min- utes ; while this is boiling, rinse the goods in two waters and hang them to drain again; when the dye-stuffs are suffi- ciently boiled in the kettle, let it cease boiling and put in the goods, push them gently under the dye and handle them ten minutes before boiling again; then boil them slowly for twenty minutes, without taking out the bag; take out the goods, cool and air them well, and hang to drain. Throw out the contents of the kettle and put back the liquid from the tub, make it as hot as your hands will bear it, then put in the goods and handle them about two minutes ; take them out and let most of the liquid drain out of them, then rinse them well in two waters, let them drain for a time and hang them to dry. For drying and pressing, see pages 5 and 6. To Color Black Cotton in Wool and Cotten [Mixed]- Goods after they have been Dyed in Wool Dye. Remarks. — It often happens that we make a mistake in coloring a garment, supposing it to be all wool, but which, after it has been dyed, proves to be mixed with cotton, and CLEANSING AND COLORING BOOK. 97 as cotton will not color with wool, the garment is thus left only partially dyed. In such cases we color the cotton by a separate process afterwards, as follows : For five pounds of goods take, the day before yon intend to color, one-half pound of sumac, boil it one minute in one- half pail of water, then put it into a tub with six pails of cold water and stir it up well, put the goods into this and handle them well for ten minutes, then push them down under the liquid and leave them so for twelve hours. Put six pails of water in the kettle, make it boil ; take one and one-half pounds of logwood chips and one-half pound of fus- tic chips, tie them up in a thin cotton cloth bag, put this in- to the kettle and let it boil for three-quarters of an hour 5 when the dye-stuffs are boiled sufficiently, take out the bag and remove the kettle from the fire ; allow the liquid to get eold during the night, then take the goods out of the sumac in the morning, hang them to drain. Rinse out the tub and put in six pails of cold water ; dissolve three-quarters of a pound of copperas in one-half pail of boiling water, when dissolved, put this into the tub and stir up well ; put in the goods and handle them well for one-half an hour, take them out and let them drain for ten minutes, then rinse them in three separate waters, after rinsing in the last water, let them drain again a few minutes ; then put them into the the cold logwood dye in the kettle and handle them for one- half hour. The cotton will then be dyed. Take out the goods and let them drain ; then throw away the contents of the kettle, put in six pails of water and make it hand-warm ; dissolve two ounces of chlorate of lime in one-half pail of boiling water, let this settle a few minutes, then pour off all 13 98 SCIENTIFIC AND EELIABLE the clear liquid into the warm water and stir it up well, put. in the goods and handle well for two minutes. Have a tub of water ready at hand to rinse the goods in when they come out of the lime, rinse them in two more waters, let them drain a few minutes and hang them to dry. For drying and pressing, see pages 5 and 6. GENERAL REMARKS CONCERNING BLACK DYES. Nearly all colors can be colored in two or more ways, and with different dye-stuffs. We have no leys than five ways of coloring blacks, but, next to the process of coloring black on indigo, we prefer the process we have given you in the preceding pages — the so-called chrome black. Still we give another process which will produce just as fast a black, but it is, perhaps, a little more injurious to the goods if not pro- perly applied, although it is a much easier and quicker way of coloring, as the goods can be dyed in one liquid, whilst the chrome and other blacks require to be prepared in one liquid and rinsed and dyed in another. The process we propose to describe is known generally in Europe as the sumac-black process, and is much used in home coloring, on account of the saving of time and labor compared with other methods of coloring black. If you follow our directions care- fully you may color by this process without the slightest in- CLEANSING AND COLORING BOOK. 99 jury to the goods. When goods are injured, the damage is generally done by boiling them longer than necessary, and not airing and handling them properly. If well aired while in the dye, they will dye in a much shorter time than if this is not done, as the copperas in the dye is affected by exposure to the air. SCIENTIFIC AND RELIABLE SIMPLIFIED METHOD OF COLORING BLACK. To Color Black on White Woolen Dress Goods or Striped and Plaided Woolen Shawls. For making up and cleaning goods before dyeing, see pages 5 and 9. For four pounds of goods use six pails of .water, make it boil, put in two pounds of logwood chips and two ounces of fustic chips tied up in a thin cotton cloth bag, boil them fifteen minutes, then let it cease boiling and put in one pound of ground sumac, stir it up well, put in the goods, handle them well, then boil the goods for three quarters of an hour, without taking out the bag, then take out the goods and the bag, cool and air the goods. Put one-half pound of copperas into the dye, stir it up until dis- solved, put in the goods and boil and air them well for fif- teen minutes, then take them out and air and cool them well ; put in one-half pound more of copperas, when this is dissolved, put the goods in again, boil them slowly and air them well for fifteen minutes, take them out, air them well and the goods are dyed. Throw out the contents of kettle and put in six pails of clean water, make this hand-warm ; dissolve four ounces of chlorate of lime in one pail of boil- ing water, let this settle a few minutes, then pour off all the clear liquid into the warm water in the kettle, stir it up well and put in the goods , handle them well for one or two min- utes. Have a tub of water ready at hand to rinse the goods in when they are taken out of the lime, rinse them in an- CLEANSING AND COLORING BOOK. 101 other water, and they are finished. For drying, stiffening and pressing dresses, see pages 5, 6 and 7. For drying and pressing shawls, see pages 5 and 7. To Color Black on Green, Grey, Pink, Light Blue or Drab Woolen Dress Goods or Shawls. For making up and cleaning woolen goods before dyeing, see pages 5 and 9. For four 'pounds of goods use six pails of water make it boil, and put in one and one-half pounds of logwood chips and two ounces of fustic chips tied up in a thin cotton cloth bag ; boil this for fifteen minutes, then let it cease boiling, and put in one-half pound of ground sumac, stir it up well and put in the goods, handle them well before boiling, then boil them three-quarters of an hour without taking out the bag, take them out and cool and air them well ; then take out the bag and put one-half pound of cop- peras into the d}^e, stir it up until dissolved, then put in the goods and handle them well, let them boil for fifteen min- utes, handle them and air them well at the same time ; take them out, cool and air them well, add one-half pound more copperas to the dye and stir it up well until dissolved ; then put the goods in, handle them well and boil for fifteen min- utes, take them out, cool and air them, then they are dyed. Throw away the dye and put five pails of water into the kettle, make it hand-warm, dissolve four ounces of chlorate of lime in one-half pail of boiling water, let this settle a few minutes, then pour off all the clear liquid into the warm 102 SCIENTIFIC AND RELIABLE water in the kettle stir it up well and put in the goods, handle them well for about two minutes. Have a tub of water ready at hand to rinse the goods in when they come out of the lime, rinse in another water, and they are done. For drying, stiffening and pressing dresses, see pages 5, 6 and 7. For drying and pressing shawls, see pages 5 and 7. To Color Black on Dark Blue, Purple or Plum Colored Woolen Dress Goods or Shawls. For making up and cleaning woolen goods before dyeing, see pages 5 and 9. For four pounds of goods, use six pails of water, make it boil, put in one and one-quarter pounds of logwood chips and six ounces of fustic chips tied up in a thin cotton cloth bag, boil fifteen minutes, then let it cease boil- ing and add one-half pound of ground sumac, stir it up well and put in the goods, make it boil again, boil and handle the goods for three-quarters of an hour, without taking out the bag; take out the goods and cool and air them well, take out the bag and put one-half pound of copperas in- to the dye, stir this up until dissolved, then put in the goods and boil, handle and air them well for fifteen min- utes, then take them out, cool and air them. Put one- half pound of copperas more into the dye, when dissolved put in the goods again, boil, handle and air them well for fifteen minutes, then take them out and cool and air them well, and they are dyed. Then throw the dye out of CLEANSING AND COLORING BOOK. 103 the kettle, put in five pails of water, make it hand-warm, dis- solve six ounces of chlorate of lime in one-half pail of boil- ing water, let it settle a few minutes, then pour off all the clear liquid into the warm water, stir it up well and put in the goods (the purple first) and handle them for about two minutes. Have a tub of water ready at hand to rinse them in after coming out of the lime, rinse in another water, and they are finished. For drying, stiffening and pressing dresses, see pages 5, 6 and 7. For drying and pressing shawls, see 5 and 7. To Color Black on Brown, Olive or Wine Colored Woolen Dress Goods or Shawls. For making up and cleaning woolen dress goods before dyeing, see pages 5 and 9. For four pounds of goods use six pails of water, make it boil and put in two pounds of logwood chips tied up in a thin cotton cloth bag, boil this for twenty minutes, then let it cease boiling and put in one- quarter of a pound of sumac, stir the dye up well and put in the goods, handle them well before boiling ; then boil and handle the goods well for three-quarters of an hour without taking out the bag, take them out, cool and air them well ; put one-half pound of copperas into the dye, stir it up un- til dissolved, put in the goods again and handle them, then boil and handle them for fifteen minutes, take them out, cool and air them well ; add one-half pound of copperas more to the dye, when this is dissolved put the goods in SCIENTIFIC AND KELIABLE again and boil and handle them for fifteen minutes, take: them out and cool and air them, and they are dyed. Throwi out the contents of the kettle and put in five pails of clean water, make it hand warm, dissolve four ounces of chlorate of lime in one-half pail of boiling water, let this settle a few minutes, then pour off all the clear liquid into the warm water, stir it up well, put in the goods and handle well for about two minutes. Have a tub of water ready at hand to rinse the goods in when they come out of the lime, rinse them in another water, and they are finished. For drying, stiffening and pressing dresses, see pages 5, 6 and 7. For drying and pressing shawls, see pages 5 and 7. To Re-Dye Faded Black Woolen Dress Goods or Shawls. For making up and cleaning woolen goods before dyeing, see pages 5 and 9. For four pounds of goods use six pails of water, make it boil, put in three-quarters of a pound of logwood chips tied up in a small thin cotton cloth bag, boil for fifteen minutes, then let it cease boiling, put in the goods and handle them well, then boil and handle the goods for twenty minutes without taking out the bag ; take out the goods and cool and air them well, then take out the bag and put two ounces of copperas into the dye; when this is dis- solved, put in the goods again, handle, air and boil them fifteen minutes, then take them out and cool and air them ; put in two ounces more of copperas, and when it is dissolved CLEANSING AND COLORING BOOK. 105 put in the goods again, boil, handle and air them well for fifteen minutes, then take them out and cool and air them well, and they are dyed. Then throw the dye out of the kettle, put in five pails of water, make it hand-warm, dis- solve two ounces of chlorate of lime in one-half pail of boil- ing water, let it settle a few minutes, then pour off all the clear liquid into the warm, water, stir it up well and put in the goods, handle them well m this for about two minutes. Have a tub of water ready at hand to rinse them in after coming out of the lime, rinse in another water, and they are finished. For drying, stiffening and pressing dresses, see pages 5, 6 and 7. For drying and pressing shawls, see pages 5 and 7. To Color Black on White Woolen Clothing. (Gentle- men's Wear, or Ladies' Sacques. For cleaning gentlemen's wear or ladies 1 sacques before dyeing, see page 10. For five pounds of goods, use seven pails of water, make it boil, put in two and one-half pounds of logwood chips and three ounces of fustic chips tied up in a thin cotton cloth bag, boil fifteen minutes, then let it cease boil- ing and add one pound of ground sumac, stir it up well and put in the goods, push them gently down under the dye and handle them well. (Be careful not to get the goods tangled while boiling as these wrinkles cannot be pressed out). Boil the goods for three-quarters of an hour, without taking out the bag; take out the goods and cool and air them well, 14 106 SCIENTIFIC AND RELIABLE take out the bag and put one-half pound of copperas in- to the dye, stir this up until dissolved, then put in the goods, push them gently down under the dye, boil slowly for fifteen minutes, and handle and air them well at the same time, then take them out, cool and air them. Put one- half pound of copperas more into the dye, when dissolved put the goods in again boil and air them well for fifteen min- utes, then take them out and cool them well, and they are dyed. Throw out the contents of the kettle and put in six pails of clean water, make it hand-warm ; dissolve four ounces of chlorate of lime in one pail of boiling water, let this settle a few minutes, pour the clear liquid into the warm water in the kettle, stir it up well and put in the goods, handle them well for about two minutes, or until the white lining in the garment looks clean, let most of the lime drain out of them. Have a tub of water ready at hand to rinse the goods in when they come out of the lime, rinse in two more waters, hang to drain, and dry them, and they are done. For drying and pressing, see pages 5 and 6. To color Black on Drab or Grey Woolen Clothing. (Gentlemen's Wear, or Ladies' Sacques). For cleaning gentlemen's wear or ladies' sacques before dyeing, see page 10. For five pounds of goods use seven pails of water, make it boil and put in two pounds of log- wood chips and two ounces of fustic chips tied up in a thin cotton cloth bag, boil this fifteen minutes, then let it cease CLEANSING AND COLORING BOOK. 107 boiling and put in three-quarters of a pound of sumac, stir the dye up well, put in the goods, push them gently down under the dye, then boil, handle and air them well for three- quarters of an hour without taking out the bag. (Be care- ful not to tangle them in boiling, as these wrinkles cannot be pressed out). Take them out, cool and air them well ; take out the bag, put in one-half pound of copperas, stir it up un- til dissolved, put in the goods again, push them gently un- der the dye and handle them, boil, handle and air them for fifteen minutes, take them out, cool and air them well ; add one-half pound more of copperas to the dye, when this is dissolved put the goods in, push them gently down under the dye, boil, handle and air them for fifteen minutes ; take them out, cool and air them well, hang to drain, then they are dyed. Throw out the dye and put six pails of clean water into the kettle, make it hand- warm ; dissolve four ounces of chlorate of lime in one-half pail of boiling water, let it settle, pour the clear liquid into the warm water, stir it up well, put in the goods and handle well for two minutes, or until the white lining of the garment looks clean, then take them out and drain most of the lime out of them. Have a tub of water ready at hand to rinse the goods in when they come out of the lime, rinse them in two more waters, drain a few minutes and hang them to dry. For drying and pressing, see pages 5 and 6. To Color Black on Blue-Black Woolen Clothing, (Gen- tlemen's Wear or Ladies' Sacques). For cleaning gentlemen's wear or ladies' sacques before dyeing, see page 10. For five pounds of goods use seven pails 108 SCIENTIFIC AND RELIABLE of water, make it boil, and put in one and one-quarter pounds of logwood chips and two ounces of fustic chips tied up in *a thin cotton cloth bag, boil for twenty minutes, then let it cease boiling and put in one-half pound of ground sumac, stir it up well, put in the goods and push them gently dow r n under the dye, boil, handle and air them well for one-half an hour. (Be careful not to get them tangled while boiling, as these wrinkles cannot be pressed out.) Take them out, cool and air them well ; then put six ounces of copperas into the dye, stir it up well until dissolved ; put in the goods and push them gently down under the dye, boil, handle and air them well for fifteen minutes, then take them out and cool them. Put in six ounces more of copperas, stir it up until dissolved put in the goods, boil air and handle them for fif- teen minutes, take them out, cool and hang to drain, then they are dyed. Throw out the contents of the kettle and put in six pails of clean water, make it hand warm ; dissolve three ounces of chlorate of lime in one pail of boiling water, let it settle a few minutes, then pour off the clear liquid into the warm water, stir it up well and put in the goods, handle them around well for about two minutes, or until the white lining in the garment looks clean, take them out and let most of the lime drain out of them. Have a tub of water ready at hand to rinse the goods in when they come out of the lime, rinse them in two more waters and hang them to drain until most of the water is out, then hang them to dry. For drying and pressing, see pages 5 and 6. CLEANSING AND COLORING BOOK. 109 To Color Black on Brown Woolen Clothing. (Gentle- men^ Wear, or Ladies Sacques.) For cleaning gentlemen's wear or ladies sacques before dyeing, see page 10. For five pounds of goods use seven pails of water,make it boil, put in two pounds of logwood chips tied up in a thin cotton cloth bag, boil for twenty min- utes, then let it cease boiling and put in four ounces of su- mac, stir it up well and put in the goods, push them gently down under the dye, boil, handle and air the goods for three- quarters of an hour without taking out the bag, (Be care- ful not to get the goods tangled while boiling as these wrinkles cannot be pressed out.) Take out the goods, and cool them well, then take out the bag and put one-half pound of copperas into the dye, stir it up until dissolved, then put the goods in again and push them gently down under the dye, boil, handle and air them well for twenty minutes ; then take them out and cool them. Add one-half pound of copperas to the dye, when this is dissolved put in the goods and push them gently down under the dye, boil, handle and air them for twenty minutes, and they are dyed, then take them out, cool them well and hang them to drain. Throw out the contents of kettle and put in six pails of clean water, make this hand-warm ; dissolve four ounces of chlorate of lime in one pail of boiling water, let this settle a few minutes, then pour off all the clear liquid into the warm water in the kettle, stir it up well, put in the goods, handle them well for one or two minutes, or until the white lining of the garment becomes clean, then take the goods out and drain. Have a tub of water ready at hand to rinse the goods 110 SCIENTIFIC AND RELIABLE in when they are taken out of the lime, rinse them in two other waters and hang them to drain until most of the water is out, then hang them to dry. For drying and pressing, see pages 5 and 6. To Re-Dye Faded Black Woolen Clothing. (Gentle- men's Wear or Ladies' Sacques). For cleaning gentlemen's wear or ladies' sacques before dyeing, see page 10. For five pounds of goods use seven pails of water, make it boil, put in three-quarters of a pound of logwood chips tied up in a small thin cotton cloth bag, boil for fifteen minutes, then let it cease boiling, put in the goods and boil, air and handle them for one-half hour. (Be care- ful not -to tangle the goods while boiling, as the wrinkles can not be pressed out afterwards). Take out the goods and cool and air them well, then put four ounces of copperas into the dye; when this is dissolved, put in the goods again, handle, air and boil them slowly for fifteen minutes, then take them out and cool and air them ; put in two ounces more of copperas, and when it is dissolved, put the goods in again, and push them gently down under the dye, boil and handle them well for fifteen minutes, take them out and cool and air them, and they are dyed. Throw out the con- tents of the kettle and put in six pails of clean water, make it hand warm, dissolve three ounces of chlorate of lime in one- half pail of boiling water, let this settle a few minutes, then CLEANSING AND COLORING BOOK. Ill pour off all the clear liquid into the warm water, stir it up well, put in the goods and handle well for about two minutes, or until the white lining of the garment becomes clean ; take out the goods and let most of the lime drain off. Have a tub of water ready at hand to rinse the goods in when they come out of the lime, rinse them in two more waters, and they are finished. For drying and pressing, see pages 5 and 6. 112 SCIENTIFIC AND RELIABLE ORDINARY METHOD OF COLORING BROWN. To Color Light Brown on White Woolen Dress Goods. For making up and cleaning woolen dress goods, see pages 5 and 9. For four pounds of goods use six pails of water, make it boil, then put in two ounces of bi-chromate of po- tash, stir it up until dissolved, then let it cease boiling and put in the goods, handle them well, then boil for one-half hour, stir and handle them well all the time, then take them out and cool them. Throw out the contents of the kettle and put in six pails of clean water, make it boil, then put in one pound of best fustic chips, one-half -pound of ground hypernic and four ounces of logwood chips tied in a thin cotton cloth bag, boil these for one-half hour ; while these dye-stuffs are boiling, rinse the goods in two separate waters ; when the dye-stuffs have boiled one-half hour take out the bag, let the dye cease boiling, put in the goods handle them well for ten minutes before boiling, then boil and handle them for twenty minutes ; take out the goods and cool them ; if they are not dark enough now, put more of the dye-stuffs into the bag, boil it again for ten minutes, then take it out and put in the goods, boil until they have acquired the desired color, then take them out, cool, and rinse them in two separate waters. For dry- ing stiffening and pressing dresses, see pages 5, 6 and 7. Splendid Bread! THIS IS THE APPROPRIATE NAME OF THE New Brand of Flour OF WHICH I HAVE THE Exclude Sale in thif Gity. It possesses, in a peculiar degree, all the elements to produce a WHITE, MOIST, SWEET. PERFECT [oaf of Bread. The testimony of all who have tried it is that it stands ahead of every brand of Flour in the market. FOR SALE ONLY BY A. COLLYER, 306 & 308 University Ave., ROCHESTER, N. Y. The Mutual Reserve Fund ASSOCIATION. E. B. HARPER, - President. POTTER BUILDING, NEW YORK. THIS Association continues to furnish Life Insurance at less than One Half the usual rates charged under the old level premium system. Its Cash Tontine Reserve Fund exceeds one million of dollars, which is returned to its persistent members after fifteen years membership. It has paid in death claims over three million of dol- lars. It is the largest, strongest and safest association and the cheapest in the world. For full particulars, apply to A. B. REYNELL, General Manager for Western New York. Office, 423 POWERS' BLOCK, EOCHESTEE, HST- CLEANSING AND COLORING BOOK. 113 To Color Light Brown on Green, Pink, Drab, Lavender or Light Grey Woolen Dress Goods. For making up and cleaning woolen dress goods, see pages 5 and 9. For four pounds of goods use six pails of water, make it boil, put in one and one-half ounces of bi-chromate of potash, stir it up until dissolved, then let it cease boiling and put in the goods, handle them well, then boil for one-half hour, stir and handle them well all the time, then take them out and cool them. Throw out the contents of the kettle and put in six pails of clean water, make it boil, then put in one pound of best fustic chips, one-half-pound of ground hypernic and three ounces of logwood chips tied in a thin cotton cloth bag, boil these for one-half hour ; while these dye-stuffs are boiling, rinse the goods in two separate waters ; when the dye-stuffs have boiled one-half hour take out the bag, let the dye cease boiling, put in the goods handle them well for ten minutes before boiling, then boil and handle them for twenty minutes or until the goods have acquired the desired color ; take them out, cool, and rinse in two separate waters. For dry- ing stiffening and pressing dresses, see pages 5, 6 and 7. To Color Medium Brown on White Woolen Dress Goods. For making up and cleaning woolen dress goods before dye- ing, see pages 5 and 9. For four pounds of goods use six pails SCIENTIFIC AND EELIABLE of water, make it boil, put in two and one-half ounces of bi-chromate of potash, stir it up until dissolved, then let it cease boiling, put in the goods, handle them well before boil- ing, then boil and handle them for one-half hour ; take out the goods and cool them well. Throw out the contents of the kettle and put in six pails of clean water, make it boil, then take one and one-half pounds of fustic chips, six ounces of logwood chips, twelve ounces of ground hypernicand two ounces of blue vitriol, tie up these dye-stuffs in a thin cot- ton cloth bag and boil them for one-half hour in the six pails of water; while this is boiling, rinse the goods in two separate waters ; take out the bag and let the d}^e cease boil- ing, put in the goods and handle them weill for ten minutes, then boil them from twenty minutes to one-half hour, or un- til the goods have acquired the desired color ; take them out, cool and rinse - them well in two separate waters, and they are finished. For drying, stiffening and pressing dresses see pages 5, 6 and 7. To Color Medium Brown on Green, Pink, Lavender, Drab or Light Grey Woolen Dress Goods. For making up and cleaning woolen dress goods before d}^eing, see pages 5 and 9. For four pounds of goods use six pails of water, make it boil, and put in two ounces of bi-chromate of potash, stir it until dissolved, let it cease boil- ing and put in the goods, handle them well, then boil for CLEANSING AND COLORING BOOK. 115 one-half hour, handle and air them well at the same time ; take oat the goods and cool them well. Throw out the con- tents of the kettle, put in six pails of clean water and make it boil ; take one and one-half pounds of fustic chips, five ounces of logwood chips, ten ounces of ground hypernic and one ounce of blue vitriol, tie these up in a thin cotton cloth bag and boil for twenty minutes in the six pails of water, while these dye-stuffs are boiling rinse the goods in two separate waters, then take out the bag, let the dye cease boil- ing, put in the goods and handle them ten minutes before boiling, then boil from twenty minutes to one-half hour. If the goods are not dark enough now, put in the bag and boil with the goods until they have acquired the desired color, take them out, cool and rinse in two waters. For drying, stiffening and pressing dresses, see pages 5, 6 and 7. To Color Seal Brown on Plum or Wine Colored Woolen Dress Goods or Shawls. For making up and cleaning woolen goods before dyeing, see pages 5 and 9. For four pounds of goods use six pails of water, make it boil, then put in two ounces of bi-chrom- ate of potash, stir it up until dissolved, let it cease boiling, put iu the goods and handle them well, then boil them for one-half hour, handle and air the goods while boiling, then take them out and cool them well. Throw out the contents of the kettle, put in six pails of water, make it boil, then put SCIENTIFIC AND KELIABLE in two pounds of fustic chips, four ounces of logwood chips and two ounces of blue vitriol tied up in a thin cotton cloth bag, boil them for one-half hour ; while this is boiling, rinse the goods in two separate waters and hang them to drain, take out the bag and let it drain into the kettle for a min- ute, let the dye cease boiling and put in the goods, handle them well for ten minutes before boiling, then boil them for one-half hoar, handle and stir them well all the time, take them out and cool them. If the goods are not dark enough now, add two ounces of logwood chips to the dye- stuffs in the bag, put it in the kettle and boil for ten min- utes, then put in the goods and boil for ten or fifteen min- utes without taking out the bag, take them out, cool them and rinse in three separate waters, and they are finished. For drying, stiffening and pressing dresses, see pages 5, 6 and 7. For drying and pressing shawls, see pages 5 and 7. To Color Seal Brown on Scarlet Dress Goods or Shawls. For making up and cleaning woolen goods before dyeing, see pages 5 and 9. For four pound of goods use six pails of water, make it boil, put in two ounces of bi-chromate of potash, stir it up until dissolved, then let it cease boiling and put in the goods, handle them well, then boil them for three-quarters of an hour, handle and stir them well all the time, take them out, cool, and hang to drain. Throw out I I CLEANSING AND C0L0KING BOOK. 117 the contents of the kettle, put in six pails of water and make it boil, put in two pounds of fustic chips, ten ounces of log- wood chips, four ounces of hypernic and four ounces of blue vitriol tied up in a thin cotton cloth bag, let them boil one- half hour, while this is boiling rinse the goods in two separ- ate waters and hang them to drain, then take out the bag and drain it a minute or two into the kettle, lay it by, in case you should have to use it again ; let the dye cease boil- ing, put in the goods and handle them well before boiling, then boil for twenty minutes, handle and stir them well all the time. If the goods are not dark enough now, add some more logwood chips to the dye-stuffs in the bag, boil it ten minutes, then put in the goods and boil them until they have acquired the desired shade. (Keep the bag in the ket- tle while the goods are boiling). Take them out, cool, and rinse in three separate waters, and they are finished. For drying, stiffening and pressing dresses, see pages 5, 6 and 7. For drying and pressing shawls see pages 5 and 7. To Color Seal Brown on Faded Brown Woolen Dress Goods or Shawls. For making up and cleaning woolen goods before dyeing, see pages 5 and 9. For four pounds of goods use six pails of water, make it boil, and put in one and one-half ounces of bi-chromate of potash, stir it up until dissolved, then let the dye cease boiling put in the goods and handle them well be- 118 SCIENTIFIC AND KELIABLE fore boiling, boil them one half hour, handle and stir them well all the time, then take them out, cool them well and hang them to drain. Throw out the contents of the kettle and put in six pails of clean water, make it boil ; put in one and one-half pounds of fustic chips, one-half pound of hypernic, one half pound of logwood chips and two ounces of blue vitriol tied up in a thin cotton cloth bag, boil this for one-half hour in the six pails of water ; while this is boiling, rinse the goods in two separate waters and hang to drain. Take out the bag, let it drain into the ket- tle for one minute and lay it by in case you should require to use it again, let the dye cease boiling, put in the goods and handle them well for ten minutes before boiling, boil twenty minutes, handle and stir them well all the time, take them out and cool them w r ell. If the color is not dark enough now, add some more logwood chips to the dye-stuffs in the bag and boil for ten minutes, then put in the goods and boil (without taking out the bag) until they have acquired the desired shade, take them out and cool them well, rinse in three separate waters, and they are finished. For drying, stiffening and pressing dresses, see pages 5, 6 and 7. For drying and pressing shawls, see pages 5 and 7. To Color Seal Brown on White Woolen Dress Goods or Striped and Plaid Shawls. For making up and cleaning woolen goods before dyeing, see pages 5 and 9. For four pounds of goods, use six pails CLEANSING AND COLORING BOOK. 119 )f water, make it boil, then put in three on noes of bi-chrom- ite of potash stir it up until dissolved, let it cease boiling, md put in the goods, handle them well and make it boil :or one hour, handle and air them well all the time, then vvdien the time is up, take out the goods, cool and air them rtrell and hang them to drain ; then throw away the dye and out six pails of clean water in the kettle, make it boil ; take ;wo pounds of fustic chips, ten ounces of logwood chips, one ind one-quarter pounds of ground hypernic and four ounces }f blue vitriol, tie all these dye-stuffs into a thin cotton 3loth bag and boil for one-half hour in the six pails of water, vvhile this is boiling rinse the goods in two separate waters tnd hang them to drain, take out the bag and let it drain into the kettle for one minute, then lay it by in case you should require it again, let the dye cease boiling and put in the goods, handle them well for ten minutes before^ boiling, then boil and handle the goods for one-half hour. If the goods ire not dark enough now put in the bag again and boil it with the goods until they have acquired the desired shade, take them out, cool, and rinse them in three separate waters, and they are finished. For drying, stiffening and pressing dresses, see pages 5, 6 and 7. For drying and pressing shawls, see pages 5 and 7. To Color Seal Brown on Green, Pink, Lavender, Drab, Light Grey or Light Blue Woolen Dress Goods or Shawls. For making up and cleaning woolen goods before dyeing, see pages 5 and 9. For four pounds of goods use six pails 120 SCIENTIFIC AND RELIABLE of water, make it boil, and put in two ounces of bi-chromate of potash, stir it up until dissolved, then let it cease boiling and put in the goods, handle them well before boiling, boil for three-quarters of an hour, stir and handle the goods all the time, take them out and cool them well. Throw out the contents of the kettle and put in six pails of clean water, make it boil, put in two pounds of fustic chips, one-half pound of logwood chips, one pound of ground hypernic and four ounces of blue vitriol, (tie these dye stuffs up in a thin cotton cloth bag), boil them one-half hour; whilst this is boiling rinse the goods in two separate waters and hang to drain ; take out the bag, let it drain into the kettle for one minute, then lay it by in case you should require to use it again ; let the dye cease boiling, put in the goods and handle them well for ten minutes before boiling, then let them boil for one-half hour, handle and air them well all the time. If the color is not dark enough now, put the bag in with the goods and let them boil together until they have acquired the desired shade. Take them out, cool, and rinse them in three separate waters, and they are finished. For drying, stiffening and pressing dresses, see pages 5, 6 and 7. For drying and pressing shawls, see pages 5 and 7. To Color Seal Brown on Crimson or Maroon Woolen Dress Goods or Shawls. For making up and cleaning woolen goods before dyeing, see pages 5 and 9. For four pounds of goods use six pails CLEANSING AND COLORING BOOK. 121 of water, make it boil, then put in two ounces of bi-chrom- ateof potash stir it up until dissolved, let it cease boiling, and put in the goods, handle them well and make it boil for one-half hour, handle and air them well all the time, then when the time is up, take out the goods, cool and air them well and hang them to drain ; then throw away the dye and put six pails of clean water in the kettle, make it boil ; take two pounds of fustic chips, one-half pound of logwood chips and two ounces of blue vitriol, tie these up in a thin cotton cloth bag and boil for one-half hour in the six pails of water, while this is boiling rinse the goods in two separate waters and hang them to drain, take out the bag and let it drain into the kettle for one minute, then lay it by in case you should require it again, let the dye cease boiling and put in the goods, handle them well for ten minutes before boiling, then boil and handle the goods for one-half hour. If they are not dark enough, take them out, add four ounces of logwood chips to the dye-stuffs in the bag, put this in the dye, and boil for ten minutes, then put in the goods and boil them with the bag until they have acquired the desired shade of color ; take them out, cool, and rinse them in three separate waters and they are finished. For drying, stiffening and pressing dresses, see pages 5, 6 and 7. For drying and pressing shawls, see pages 5 and 7. To Color Seal Brown on Dark Blue Woolen Dress Goods or Shawls. For making up and cleaning woolen goods before dyeing, see pages 5 and 9. For four pounds of goods use six pails 16 SCIENTIFIC AND KELIABLE of water, make it boil, then put in two ounces of bi- chromate of potash, stir it up until dissolved, then let it cease boiling, put in the goods, handle them well before boil- ing, then boil and handle them for one-half hour ; take out the goods, cool them well and hang to drain. Throw out the contents of the kettle, put in six pails of clean water, make it boil ; put in two pounds of fustic chips, one pound of hypernic, ly and two ounces of blue vitriol tied up in a thin cotton cloth bag. (If the goods have lost their original color in i; the above preparation, add eight ounces of logwood chips, ca but if they still retain their blue color you will require no an logwood, as the blue will keep them dark enough without.) m Boil this for one-half hour in the six pails of water ; while \\: this is boiling, rinse the goods in two separate waters and t( hang to drain. Take out the bag, let it drain into the ket- to tie for one minute and lay it by in case you should require \ to use it again, let the dye cease boiling, put in the goods fa and handle them well for ten minutes before boiling, boil for one-half hour, handle and stir them well all the time. m If the color looks then too greenish, add eight ounces of hy- ii pernio to the dye-stuffs in the bag, put the bag in with p the goods and boil (without taking out the bag) until i they have acquired the desired shade, take them out and a cool and air well, rinse in three separate waters, and they are ( finished. For drying, stiffening and pressing dresses, see i pages 5, 6 and 7. For drying and pressing shawls, see pages » § and 7. CLEANSING AND COLORING BOOK. 128 To Color Medium Brown on White Woolen and Cot- ton (Mixed) Dress Goods. For making up and cleaning woolen dress goods before dyeing, see pages 5 and 9. For four pounds of goods use five pails of water, make it boil, and put in one pound of catechu and one and one-half ounces of blue vitriol, (cut the catechu up into small pieces, put into one gallon of water and boil until dissolved, strain it into the five pails of boil- ing water) ; Throw this into a tub, put six pails of clean water into the kettle and make it boil ; while this is getting hot put the goods into the hot dye in the tub and handle them well for twenty minutes, then take them out, air them well, and hang to drain ; when the six pails of water in the kettle is boiling, put in two ounces of bi-chromate of potash, stir until dissolved. Throw away the contents of the tub and pour the bi-chromate into it; put six pails of clean water into the kettle and make it boil ; whilst this is getting hot, put the goods into the dye in the tub and handle them well for fifteen minutes, then take them out, cool them well and rinse them in a tub of water ; then take one pound of fustic chips, six ounces of logwood chips, four ounces of hy • pernic and two ounces of blue vitriol , tie these dye-stuffs in a thin cotton cloth bag and boil for one half hour, then take the bag out, let it drain into the kettle for one minute and lay it by, let the dye cease boiling, put in the goods and handle them well ten minutes before boiling, then boil them slowly for twenty minutes, and handle and air them while boiling ; take them out, cool, rinse in two separate waters and 124 SCIENTIFIC AND RELIABLE they are finished. For drying, stiffening and pressing dresses see pages 5, 6 and 7. To Color Medium Brown on Drab or Light Grey Wool and Cotton (Mixed) Dress Goods or Shawls. For making up and cleaning woolen goods before dyeing, see pages 5 and 9. For four pounds of goods, use five pails of water, make it boil, then take three-quarters of a pound of catechu and one ounce of blue vitriol, (cut the catechu into small pieces, boil in one-half pail of water until dissolved, then strain it into the five pails of boiling water.) Throw the whole into a tub, put six pails of clean water into the kettle, make it boil ; while this is getting hot put the goods into the dye in the tub, handle them well for twenty minutes then take them out, cool, and hang them to drain ; when the water in the kettle is boiling, put in two ounces of bi- chromate of potash, stir it up until dissolved. Throw out the contents of the tub, and pour the dye from the kettle into it ; put six pails of clean water into the kettle, make it boil ; while this is getting hot, pat the goods into the dye in the tub, handle them well for fifteen minutes, then take them out and cool them well. Throw out the contents of the tub, fill it with water, rinse the goods in that and hang them to drain ; take one pound of fustic chips, four ounces of log- wood chips and four ounces of hypernic, and one ounce of blue vitriol, tie all these dye-stuffs in a small thin cot- ton cloth bag and boil them for one half hour in the six CLEANSING AND COLOKING BOOK. 125 pails of water in the kettle, then take out the bag and let it drain into the kettle for one minute, lay it by, then let the dye-stuffs cease boiling, put in the goods, handle them well for ten minutes before boiling, then boil them slowly twenty minutes, handle and stir them well all the time, take them out, cool, and rinse them in two different waters, and they are finished. For drying, stiffening and pressing dresses, see pages 5, 6 and 7. For drying and pressing shawls, see pages 5 and 7. To Color Seal Brown on White Wool and Cotton (Mixed) Dress Goods or Shawls. For making up and cleaning woolen goods before dyeing, see pages 5 and 9. For four pounds of goods use five pails of water, make it boil ; take one and one-half pounds of cate- chu, cut up into small pieces, and one and one-half ounces of blue vitriol, boil these in one-half pail of water until dissolved, strain it into the five pails of boiling water, then pour the contents of the kettle into a tub, put five pails of clean water into the kettle, make it boil ; while this is getting hot, put the goods into the dye in the tub and handle them well for twenty minutes, take them out, cool, and hang to drain, then throw away the contents of the tub ; put three ounces of bi-chromate of potash into the kettle of boiling water, stir it up until dissolved, then pour it in- to the tub, put six pails of clean water into the kettle, make 126 SCIENTIFIC AND RELIABLE it boil; while this is getting hot, put the goods into the dye in the tub, handle them well for fifteen minutes, take them out and cool them. Throw away the contents of the tub, and fill it with water, rinse the goods in this and hang to drain. Take ten ounces of logwood chips, one and one-half pounds of fustic chips, twelve ounces of hypernic and two ounces of blue vitriol, tie these dye-stuffs up in a thin cotton, cloth bag, and boil in the six pails of water in the kettle for twenty minutes, take out the bag, let the dye cease boiling, put in the goods and handle them ten minutes before boiling, then let them boil slowly for twenty minutes, stir them well all the time. If not dark enough take them out and add more logwood chips to the dye-stuffs in the bag, put it in the kettle and boil for ten minutes, then put in the goods and boil, without taking out the bag, until they have ac- quired the desired shade ; take them out, cool them well, and rinse in three separate waters, and they are finished. For drying, stiffening and pressing dresses, see pages 5, 6 and 7. For drying and pressing shawls, see pages 5 and 7. To Color Seal Brown on Drab, Grey, or Light Blue Wool and Cotton (Mixed) Dress Goods or Shawls. For making up and cleaning woolen goods before dyeing, see pages 5 and 9. For four pounds of goods use five pails of water, make it boil ; take one and one-quarter pounds of catechu cut up in small pieces, and one and one half ounces CLEANSING AND COLORING BOOK. 127 J of blue vitriol, boil these in one-half pail of water until dis- solved, then strain it into the five pails of boiling water, pour 5 this into a tub, and put five pails of clean water into the ket- tle, make it boil ; while this is getting hot, put the goods into the dye in the tub, handle them well for twenty min- utes, take them out, throw out the contents of the tub, and when the water in the kettle is boiling, put in two and one- half ounces of bi-chromate of potash, stir it up until dissolved and pour it into the tub ; put six pails of clean water into the kettle and make it boil ; while it is boiling, put the goods into the dye in the tub and handle them well for fifteen min- utes, take them out, throw away the dye in the tub and rinse the goods, then take ten ounces of logwood chips, one s and one-half pounds of fustic chips, twelve ounces of hyper- nic and two ounces of blue vitriol, tie these dyestuffs up in a i thin cotton cloth bag and boil them for twenty minutes in the six pails of water in the kettle, take out the bag, let the dye cease boiling, put in the goods and handle them ten minutes before boiling, then boil them slowly for twenty minutes. If the color is not dark enough now, take out the goods, add more logwood chipjs to the dye-stuffs in the bag, put in the bag and boil it again for ten minutes, let the dye cease boiling and put in the goods, boil them without taking e out the bag until they have acquired the desired shade, take them out, air, and rinse in three separate waters. For dry- ing stiffening and pressing dresses, see pages 5, 6 and 7. For drying and pressing shawls, see pages 5 and 7. 128 SCIENTIFIC AND EELIABLE To Color Seal Brown on Dark Blue or Purple Wool and Cotton [Mixed] Dress Goods or Shawls. For making up and cleaning goods before dyeing, see pages 5 and 9. For four pounds of goods use five pails of water and make it boil ; take one and one-quarter pounds of catechu, cut this up into small pieces, add one and one-half ounces of blue vitriol ; boil this in one-half pail of water until dissolved, then strain it into the five pails of boiling water, stir it up well and pour it into a tub, then put five pails of clean water in to the kettle, and make it boil ; while this is getting hot, put the goods in the tub and handle them well for twenty minutes, take them out, throw out the contents of the tub ; put two and one-half ounces of bi-chromate of potash into the five pails of boiling water in the kettle, stir it up until dissolved, pour this into the tub ; put six pails of clean water into the kettle, make it boil ; while this is getting hot, put the goods into the dye in the tub and handle them well for fifteen minutes, take them out, throw away the contents of the tub, and rinse the goods in two separate waters ; take one and one-half pounds of fustic chips, three- quarters of a pound of hypernie, four ounces of logwood chips and two ounces of blue vitriol, tie these up in a thin cotton cloth bag and boil them twenty minutes in the six pails of water in the kettle, take out the bag, let the dye cease boiling, stir it up well and put in the goods, handle them well for ten minutes before boiling, then boil them slowly for twenty minutes, take them out and cool them. If CLEANSING AND COLORING BOOK. 129 not dark enough take them out and add four ounces more logwood chips to the dye-stuffs in the bag, put it in the kettle and boil for ten minutes, put in the goods and boil slowly, without taking out the bag, for fifteen minutes, take them out, air, and rinse in three separate waters, and they are finished. For drying, stiffening and pressing dresses see pages 5, 6 and 7. For drying and pressing shawls, see pages 5 and 7. To Color Seal Brown on Red Wool and Cotton (Mixed) Dress Goods or Shawls. For making up and cleaning woolen dress goods before dyeing, see pages 5 and 9. For four pounds of goods use five pails of water, make it boil, and put in one pound of catechu and one and one-half ounces of blue vitriol, (cut the catechu up into small pieces, put into one-half pail of water and boil until dissolved, strain it into the five pails of boil ing water) ; stir it up well and pour it into a tub, put five pails of clean water into the kettle and make it boil; while this is getting hot put the goods into the hot dye in the tub, handle them well for twenty minutes, then take them out Throw away the contents of the tub, put two ounces of bi- chromate of potash into the five pails of boiling water in the kettle, stir until dissolved, then pour it into the tub ; put six pails, of water into the kettle, make it boil ; put the goods into the dye in the tub and handle them well for fif- teen minutes ; take them out, throw away the contents of 17 130 SCIENTIFIC AND RELIABLE the tub, rinse the goods in two separate waters and hang to drain ; then take one and one-half pounds of fustic chips three-quarters of a pound of logwood chips and one and one-half ounces of blue vitriol (use no hypernic, as the goods have all the red in themselves that is required) ; tie these in a thin cotton cloth bag and boil for twenty minutes in the six pails of water in the kettle ; take out the bag, let the dye cease boiling, put in the goods and handle them well ten minutes before boiling, then boil them slowly for twenty minutes, and handle them well all the time, take them out and cool them well. If the color is not dark enough now, put more logwood chips into the bag and boil it again for ten minutes, then put in the goods and boil them slowly for fifteen minutes, without taking out the bag, then take out the goods, air them well, rinse in three separate waters, and they are finished. For drying, stiffen- ing and pressing dresses, see pages 5, 6 and 7. For drying and pressing shawls see pages 5 and 7. To Re-Dye Faded Brown Wool and Cotton (Mixed) Dress Goods or Shawls. For making up and cleaning woolen goods before dyeing, see pages 5 and 9. For four pounds of goods use five pails of water, make it boil ; take three-quarters of a pound of catechu cut up in small pieces, and add one ounce of blue vitriol, boil these in one-half pail of water until dis- CLEANSING AND COLORING BOOK. 131 solved, then strain it into the five pails of boiling water, stir it up, pour it into a tub and put five pails of water into the ket- tle, make it boil ; while this* is getting hot, put the goods into the dye in the tub, handle them well for fifteen min- utes, take them out, cool,, and hang them to drain ; then throw out the contents of the tub, and put one and one- half ounces of bi-chromate of potash into the five pails of boiling water in the kettle, stir it up well until dissolved then pour it into the tub ; put six pails of clean water into the kettle and make it boil ; while it is boiling, put the goods into the dye in the tub and handle them well for fifteen min- utes, take them out, throw away the dye in the tub and rinse the goods in two separate waters ; then take three- quarters of a pound of fustic chips, six ounces of hypernic, eight ounces of logwood chips and one ounce of blue vitriol, tie these up in a thin cotton cloth bag boil twenty minutes in the six pails of water in the kettle, take out the bag, let the dye cease boiling, put in the goods and handle them ten minutes before boiling, then boil them slowly for twenty minutes, handle them well in the dye all the time, take them out and cool. If the color is not dark enough now, then add some more logwood chips to the dye-stuffs in the bag, put in the bag and boil it again for ten minutes, then put in the goods, boil them slowly for ten or fifteen minutes with- out taking out the bag, take them out, cool them well, and rinse in three separate waters. For drying stiffening and pressing dresses, see pages 5, 6 and 7. For drying and press- ing shawls, see pages 5 and 7. 132 SCIENTIFIC AND RELIABLE To Color Seal Brown on Light Colored Wool and Cot- ton [Mixed] Clothing, Gentlemen's Wear or Ladies' Sacques. For cleaning these goods before dyeing, see page 10. For four pounds of goods use six pails of water, make it boil ; take two pounds of catechu (cut up in small pieces) and two ounces of blue vitriol, boil these in one-half pail of water until dissolved, then strain it into the six pails of boiling water, stir this up and pour it into a tub ; put six pails of clean water into the kettle, make it boil, while this is boiling put the goods into the dye in the tub, handle them well for twenty minutes, then take them out and hang to drain, rinse out the tub. Put three ounces of bi-ehromate of pot- ash in to the six pails of boiling water in the kettle, stir it up until dissolved, then let the dye cease boiling, put in the goods and push them gently down under the liquor, let them simmer for fifteen minutes,, then take them out, cool them and hang to drain. Throw away the contents of the kettle and put in six pails of clean water, make it boil; while this is getting hot, rinse the goods in two separate waters and hang them to drain again. Take one and one-quarter pounds of fustic chips, three quarters of a pound of Irypernic, one pound of logwood chips and two ounces of blue vitriol, tie these dye-stuffs up in a thin cotton cloth bag, and boil in the six pails of water in the kettle for fifteen minutes, let the dye cease boiling, leave in the bag, put in the goods and push them gently down under the dye, handle them well for ten minutes before boiling, then let them boil slowly and handle CLEANSING AND COLORING BOOK. 133 [them well for twenty minutes, take them out and cool them well. If they are not dark enough now, take them out add more logwood chips to the dye stuffs in the bag, put the bag in the dye and boil it again for a few minutes, then put the goods in and boil them until they have acquired the desired shade ; take them out and cool them well, then rinse them thoroughly in three separate waters, let them drain for a time and hang to dry. For drying and pressing, see pages 5 and 6. To Color Seal Brown on Blue-Black Wool and Cotton [Mixed] Clothing. Gentlemen's Wear and Ladies' Sacques. For cleaning goods before dyeing, see page 10. For four pounds of goods use six pails of water, make it boil ; take one and one-half pounds of catechu, cut this up into small pieces, add one and one-half ounces of blue vitriol ; boil this in one-half pail of water until dissolved, then strain it into the six pails of boiling water, stir it up well and pour it into a tub, then put six pails of clean water in to the kettle and make it boil ; while this is getting hot, put the goods into the dye in the tub and handle them well for twenty minutes, take them out, cool, and hang to drain. Throw out the con- tents of the tub ; put two ounces of bi-chromate of potash into the six pails of boiling water in the kettle, stir it up well until dissolved, pour this into the tub ; put six pails of clean 184 SCIENTIFIC AND RELIABLE water into the kettle, and make it boil ; then while this is getting hot, put the goods into the dye in the tub and handle them well for fifteen minutes, take them out, cool, and hang them to drain ; rinse out the tub, rinse the goods in two se- parate waters and hang them drain ; take one and one-half pounds of fustic chips, one pound of hypernie, six ounces of logwood chips and two ounces of blue vitriol, tie these up in a thin cotton cloth bag boil them fifteen minutes in the six pails of water in the kettle, let the dye cease boiling, leave in the bag, put in the goods and push them gently under the dye, handle them well for ten minutes before boiling, then boil them slowly for twenty minutes, handle them well to prevent tangling, (as wrinkles made while boiling cannot be pressed out), then take them out. If they are not dark enough now, then add a little more logwood chips to the dye-stuffs in the bag, put this in the dye, and boil for a few minutes, then put in the goods and boil them slowly for fifteen minutes more, take them out, cool, and rinse them thoroughly in three separate waters, drain them for a time and hang to dry. For drying and pressing, see pages 5 and 6. To Re-Dye Faded Brown Wool and Cotton [Mixed] Clothing. Gentlemen's Wear or Ladies' Sacques. For cleaning these goods before dyeing, see page 10. For four pounds of goods, use six pails of water, make it boil, then take one pound of catechu and one ounce of blue vit- CLEANSING AND C0L0KING BOOK. 185 riol, (cut the catechu into small pieces, boil in one-half pail of water until dissolved, then strain it into the six pails of boiling water.) Throw the whole into a tub, put six pails of clean water into the kettle, make it boil ; while this is get- ting hot put the goods into the dye in the tub, handle them well for fifteen minutes then take them out, and hang them to drain ; when the water in the kettle is boiling, put in two ounces of bi-chromate of potash, stir it up until dissolved. Throw out the contents of the tub, and pour the dye from the kettle into it ; put six pails of clean water into the ket- tle, make it boil : while this is getting hot, put the goods in- to the dye in the tub, handle them well for fifteen minutes, then take them out, cool and hang to drain. Rinse out the tub, rinse the goods in two separate waters and hang them to drain ; take three-quarters of a pound of fustic chips, one- half pound of hy pernio, three-quarters of a pound of log- wood chips and one ounce of blue vitriol, tie all these dye- stuffs in a small thin cotton cloth bag and boil them in the six pails of water in the kettle for fifteen minutes, then let the dye cease boiling, leave the bag in, put in the goods and push them gently down under the dye, handle them well for ten minutes before boiling, then boil them slowly twenty minutes, (handle the goods well whilst boiling to prevent tangling, as these wrinkles cannot be pressed out); If the color is not dark enough now, take cut the goods, and add more logwood chips to the dye-stuffs in the bag, boil this in the dye for a few minutes, then put in the goods and boil them slowly for fifteen minutes ; take them out, cool, and drain out most of the dye, then rinse them thoroughly in three separate waters, let them drain for a time, then hang to SCIENTIFIC AND RELIABLE dry. For drying and pressing gentlemen's wear and ladies' sacques, see pages 5 and 6. To Color Brown Cotton in Wool and Cotton (Mixed) Goods after they have been Dyed in Wool Dye. Eemarks. — It often happens that we make a mistake in coloring a garment, supposing it to be all wool, but which, after it has been dyed, proves to be mixed with cotton, and the garment is thus only partially dyed. In such cases we have to dye the cotton separately afterwards, by the follow- ing process : For five pounds of goods use five pails of warm water, take one and one-half pounds of catechu, cut up into small pieces, and add two ounces of blue vitriol, boil these in one pail of water until dissolved, strain it into the five pails of water made as hot as your hands will bear it stir it up, then pour the contents of the kettle into a tub, put four pails of clean water into the kettle, make it boil ; while this is getting hot, put the goods into the dye in the tub and handle them well for twenty minutes, take them out and hang to drain, then throw away the contents of the tub put two ounces of bi-chromate of potash into the kettle of boiling water, stir it up until dissolved, then pour it in- to the tub and cool it down with two pails of cold water. CLEANSING AND COLORING BOOK. 137 put four pails of clean water into the kettle, make it boil ; while this is boiling, put the goods into the dye in the tub, handle them well for fifteen .minutes, then take them out, let them drain for a time, rinse the goods in two separate waters, and hang to drain ; take one pound of fustic chips, one pound of hypernic, one pound of logwood chips and two ounces of blue vitriol, tie these up in a thin cotton cloth bag and boil for twenty minutes in the four pails of water in the kettle, take out the bag, remove the kettle from the fire and cool the dye with two pails of cold water, stir it up, put in the goods, handle them well for twenty minutes, then take them out, let them drain for a time and rinse them thoroughly in three separate waters, drain them for a time, and hang them to dry. To Color Seal Brown on White Woolen Sacques. For cleaning woolen sacques before dyeing, see page 10. For four pounds of goods, use six pails of water, make it boil ; put in three ounces of bi-chromate of potash, stir it up for a few minutes, or until dissolved, let it cease boiling and put in the goods, handle them well for ten minutes before boiling, then boil for one hour and handle the goods well whilst boiling (to prevent tangling, as these wrinkles cannot be pressed out) ; take them out, cool, and hang to drain. Throw out the contents of the kettle and put in six pails of clean water, make it boil ; while this is getting hot rinse the goods in two separate waters and hang them to drain ; take 18 138 SCIENTIFIC AND RELIABLE two pounds of fustic chips, one and one-quarter pounds of hypernic, one-half pound of logwood chips and two ounces of blue vitriol, tie all these dye-stuffs in a small thin cotton cloth bag and boil them in the six pails of water in the ket- tle for twenty minutes, then let the dye cease boiling, leave the bag in, put in the goods and handle them well ten min- utes, then boil the goods for one-half hour and handle them well all the time to prevent them from getting wrinkled or uneven in color, take them out, cool and air them well. If the color of the goods is not dark enough now, add more logwood chips and hypernic to the dye stuffs in the bag, boil it again in the dye for ten minutes, then put the goods in and boil them for fifteen minutes ; take them out, cool and rinse them well in three separate waters, hang them to drain until most of the water has drained out, then hang to dry. For drying and pressing, see pages 5 and 6. To Color Seal Brown on Blue Woolen Sacques. For cleaning these goods before dyeing, see page 10. For four pounds of goods, use six pails of water, make it boil, put in two ounces of bi-chromate of potash, stir it up for a few minutes, or until dissolved, then let it cease boiling, put in the goods, handle them ten minutes before boiling, then boil three-quarters of an hour, (handle the goods well while boiling to prevent tangling, as these wrinkles cannot be I pressed out) ; take out the goods, cool, and hang to drain. Throw out the contents of the kettle and put in six pails CLEANSING AND COLORING BOOK. 139 of clean water, make it boil ; while this is getting hot, rinse the goods in two separate waters and hang to drain ; then take two pounds of fustic chips, one and one-quarter pounds of hypernic and two ounces of blue vitriol, (if the goods have lost their color in the above preparation, put in eight ounces of logwood chips, if they retain their color, use no logwood as the blue answers the same purpose) ; tie these in a thin cotton cloth bag and boil for fifteen minutes in the six pails of water in the kettle ; leave the bag in,, let the dye cease boiling, put in the goods and handle them well ten minutes before boiling, then boil them for one-half hour, handle them well all the time to prevent wrinkling and uneven color , take them out and cool them well. If the color is not dark enough, put more logwood chips into the bag and boil it again for a few minutes, then put in the goods and boil them until they have acquired the desired shade, then take out the goods, cool and air them well, rinse in three separ- ate waters, let them drain a few minutes and hang to dry. For drying and pressing see pages 5 and 6. To Color Seal Brown on Red Woolen Sacques. For cleaning woolen sacques before dyeing, see page 10. For four pounds of goods use six pails of water, make it boil, put in two ounces of bi-chromate of potash, stir it up well for a few minutes, or until dissolved, then let it cease boiling, put in the goods, handle them for ten minutes be- fore boiling, then boil them for three-quarters of an hour, 140 SCIENTIFIC AND KELIABLE handle them well whilst boiling to prevent them getting tangled, then take them out, cool, and hang to drain. Throw out the contents of the kettle, pat in six pails, of water, and make it boil ; then while this is getting hot, rinse the goods in two separate waters and hang to drain ; take two pounds of fustic chips, twelve ounces of logwood chips, and two ounces of blue vitriol, (use no hypernic, as the red in the goods answer the same purpose) ; tie these up in a thin cot- ton cloth bag boil them fifteen minutes in the six pails of water in the kettle, let the dye cease boiling, leave in the bag, put in the goods and handle them well for a few min- utes before boiling, then boil and handle them well for one- half hour, then take them out and cool them well. If they are not dark enough now, then add more logwood chips to the dye-stuffs in the bag, put this in the dye, and boil for a few minutes, then put in the goods and boil them until they have acquired the desired shade, take them out, cool, and rinse them thoroughly in three separate waters, drain them for a few minutes and hang to dry. For drying and pressing, see pages 5 and 6. To Color Seal Brown on Drab or Grey Woolen Cloth- ing. Gentlemen's Wear or Ladies' Sacques. For cleaning these goods before dyeing, see page 10. For four pounds of goods use seven pails of water, make it boil then put in two and one-half ounces of bi-chromate of CLEANSING AND COLORING BOOK. 141 potash stir it up until dissolved, then let the dye cease boil- ing, put in the goods, handle them well for ten minutes, then boil for three-quarters of an hour, handle them well to pre- vent tangling, then take them out, cool them and hang to drain. Throw away the contents of the kettle and put in six pails of clean water, make it boil; while this is getting hot, rinse the goods in two separate waters and hang them to drain again. Take two pounds of fustic chips, one pound of hypernic, three quarters of a pound of logwood chips, and two ounces of blue vitriol, tie these dye-stuffs up in a thin cotton cloth bag, and boil in the six pails of water in the kettle for fifteen minutes, let the dye cease boiling, leave in the bag, put in the goods and push them gently down under the dye, handle them well then let them boil one-half hour, handle and stir them whilst boiling, take them out and cool them well. If the color of the goods is not dark enough now, add more logwood chips and hypernic to the dye- stuffs in the bag, boil this in the dye for a few minutes, then put in the goods and boil them until they have acquired the desired shade; take them out, cool, and rinse them thor- oughly in three separate waters, let them drain for a time, then hang to dry. For drying and pressing, see pages 5 and 6. To Color Seal Brown on Navy Blue Clothing. Gentle- men's Wear or Ladies' Sacques. For cleaning goods before dyeing, see page 10. For four pounds of goods use six pails of water, make it boil ; put 142 SCIENTIFIC AND RELIABLE in two ounces of bi-chromate of potash, stir until dissolved, let it cease boiling and put in the goods, handle them well for ten minutes, then boil for three-quarters of an hour, handle them while boiling to prevent tangling, take them out, cool, and hang to drain ; then throw away the contents of the kettle, put in six pails of water, make it boil ; then while this is getting hot, rinse the goods in two separate waters and hang to drain ; take two pounds of fustic chips, one and one-quarter pounds of hypernic and two ounces of blue vitriol, (if the goods have lost their color in the above process, add ten ounces of logwood chips, if they retain their blue color, they will require no logwood as the blue answers the same purpose), tie these up in a thin cotton cloth bag and boil them fifteen minutes in the six pails of water in the kettle, let the dye cease boiling, leave in the bag, and put in the goods, push them gently down under the dye and handle them well for ten minutes without boiling, then boil them one-half hour, handle them well all the time to prevent tangling, then take out and cool them. If they are not dark enough now, add a little more logwood chips to the dye stuffs in the bag, put the bag in the dye and boil it again for ten minutes, then put the goods in and boil them fifteen minutes ; take them out, cool and air them, drain out most of the dye, then rinse them thoroughly in three separate waters and hang to dry. For drying and pressing, see pages 5 and 6. 143 To Color Seal Brown on Faded Blue-Black Woolen Clothing. Gentlemen's Wear or Ladies' Sacques. For cleaning woolen goods before dyeing, see page 10. For four pounds of goods use seven pails of water, make it boil, put in two ounces of bi-chromate of potash, stir it up for a few minutes, or until dissolved, then let it cease boil- ing and put in the goods, handle them for ten minutes before boiling, then boil for three-quarters of an hour ; handle well whilst boiling to prevent the goods getting tangled ; then take them out, cool, and hang to drain. Throw out the con- tents of the kettle, put in six pails of water, make it boil ; whilst this is getting hot, rinse the goods in two separate waters and hang them to drain ; take two pounds of fustic chips, one and one-quarter pounds of hypernic, six ounces of logwood chips and two ounces of blue vitriol, tie these up in a thin cotton cloth bag and boil them for fifteen minutes in the six pails of water in the kettle, let the dj^e cease boiling and put in the goods, push them gently under the dye, and handle them well, then boil them for one half hour, without taking out the bag, handle them well while boiling. If they are not dark enough now, take them out add a few ounces more logwood chips to the dj^e-stuffs in the bag, and boil it in the dye for ten minutes, then put in the goods and boil (without taking out the bag) until they have acquired the desired shade, cool and hang them to drain for a time, rinse them thoroughly in three separate waters, drain them a little and hang them to dry. For drying and pressing, see pages 5 and 6. 144 SCIENTIFIC AND KELIABLE To Re-Dye Faded Brown Woolen Clothing. Gentle- men's Wear or Ladies' Sacques. For cleaning these goods before dyeing, see page 10. For four pounds of goods use seven pails of water, make this boil, then put in one and one-half ounces of bi-chromate of potash, stir it up for a few minutes, or until dissolved, then let it cease boiling and pat in the goods, handle them well for ten minutes before boiling, then boil for one-half hour ; handle the goods well while boiling to prevent them from getting tangled ; take them out, cool, and hang to drain. Throw away the contents of the kettle, put in six pails of clean water and make it boil ; while this is getting hot, rinse the goods in two separate waters and hang them to drain ; and then take one pound of fustic chips, twelve ounces of logwood chips, ten ounces of hypernic and one ounce of blue vitriol, tie these in a thin cotton cloth bag and boil for fif- teen minutes in the six pails of water in the kettle, let the dye cease boiling, put in the goods and push them gently under the dye, handle them well before boiling, then boil for twenty minutes and handle them well at the same time. If the color of the goods is not dark enough now, take oat the goods and add more logwood chips to the dye-stuffs in the bag, boil it again in the dye for ten minutes, put in the goods and boil them for fifteen minutes, then take them out, cool, and hang them to drain for a time, rinse them thor- oughly in three waters, let them drain for a short time and hang to dry. For drying and pressing, see pages 5 and 6. CLEANSING AND COLORING BOOK. 145 To Color Wine Color on White Woolen Sacques. Shawls, or other Heavy Goods. For cleaning woolen goods before dyeing, see page 10. For four pounds of goods use six pails of water, make it boil, put in three ounces of bi-chromate of potash, stir it up for a few minutes, or until dissolved, then let it cease boil- ing and put in the goods, handle them for ten minutes before boiling, then boil for one hour ; and handle them well whilst boiling to prevent the goods getting tangled; then take them out, cool, and hang to drain. Throw out the con- tents of the kettle, put in six pails of water, make it boil ; whilst this is getting hot, rinse the goods in two separate waters and hang them to drain; take three pounds of hy pernic, one pound of logwood chips, one-half pound of fus- tic chips and two ounces of blue vitriol, tie all these up in a thin cotton cloth bag and boil them for fifteen minutes in the six pails of water in the kettle, let the dje cease boiling and put in the goods, push them gently under the dye, and handle them well, then boil them for one half hour, without taking out the bag, handle them well while boiling. If they are not dark enough, take them out add more hypernic and a little more logwood chips to the dye-stuffs in the bag, boil it in the dye for ten minutes, then put in the goods and boil for fifteen minutes, then take them out, cool and hang them to drain for a time, rinse them thoroughly in three separate waters, drain them a little and hang them to dry. For dry- ing and pressing, see pages 5, 6 and 7. 19 146 SCIENTIFIC AND RELIABLE To Color Wine Color on Drab or Grey Woolen Cloth- ing. Gentlemen's Wear or Ladies' Sacques. For cleaning these goods before dyeing, see page 10. For four pounds of goods, use six pails of water, make it boil, put in two ounces of bi-chrornate of potash, stir it up for a few minutes, or until dissolved, then let it cease boiling, put in the goods, handle them ten minutes before boiling, then boil three-quarters of an hour, (handle the goods well while boiling to prevent tangling, as these wrinkles cannot be pressed out) ; take out the goods, cool, and hang to drain. Throw out the contents of the kettle and put in six pails of clean water, make it boil ; while this is getting hot, rinse the goods in two separate waters and hang to drain ; then take two and one-half pounds of hypernic, three-quarters of a pound of logwood chips, one-half pound of fustic chips ) and two ounces of blue vitriol, tie these dye-stuffs in a thin cotton cloth bag and boil for fifteen minutes in the six pails of water in the kettle ; leave the bag in, let the dye cease boiling, put in the goods and handle them well a few minutes before boiling, then boil them for one-half hour, handle them well all the time to prevent wrinkling and uneven color ; take them out and cool them well. If the color of the goods is not dark enough now, add more hypernic, also a little more logwood chips to the bag and boil it again in the dye for ten minutes, then put in the goods and boil for fifteen minutes, then take them out, cool and hang them to drain for a time, rinse thoroughly in three separate waters, let them drain a few minutes and hang to dry. For dry- ing and pressing see pages 5 and 6. CLEANSING AND COLORING BOOK. 147 To Color Wine Color on Blue or Purple Woolen Sacques, Shawls or other Heavy Goods. For cleaning woolen goods before dyeing, see page 10. For four pounds of goods use six pails of water, make it boil, put in two ounces of bi-chromate of potash, stir it up well for a few minutes, or until dissolved, then let it cease boiling, put in the goods, handle them for ten minutes be- fore boiling, then boil them for three-quarters of an hour, handle them while boiling to prevent tangling, take them out, cool, and hang to drain ; then throw away the contents of the kettle, put in six pails of water, make it boil ; then while this is getting hot, rinse the goods in two separate waters and hang to drain ; take two and one-half pounds of hypernic, one-half pound of fustic chips and two ounces of blue vitriol, (if- the goods have lost their color in the above process, add twelve ounces of logwood chips, if they retain their blue color, they will require no logwood as the blue answers the same purpose), tie these up in a thin cotton cloth bag and boil them fifteen minutes in the six pails of water in the kettle, let the dye cease boiling, leave in the bag, and put in the goods, push them gently down under the dye and handle them well for ten minutes without boiling, then boil them one-half hour, handle them well all the time to prevent tangling, then take out and cool them. If they are not dark enough add a little more logwood chips and Irypernic to the dye stuffs in the bag, put the bag in the dye and boil it again for ten minutes, then put the goods in and boil them fifteen minutes ; take them out, cool and hang them to 148 SCIENTIFIC AND RELIABLE drain for a time, then rinse them thoroughly in three separ- ate waters, drain them again and hang to dry. For drying and pressing, see pages 5, 6, and 7. To Color Wine Color on Red Woolen Sacques, Shawls or other Heavy Goods. For cleaning woolen goods before dyeing, see page 10. For four pounds of goods use six pails of water, make it boil, then put in two ounces of bi-chromate of potash, stir until dissolved, let it cease boiling and put in the goods, handle them well for ten minutes before boiling, then boil for three-quarters of an hour, (handle the goods well whilst boiling to prevent them from tangling) ; take them out, cool, and hang to drain. Throw out the contents of the kettle, put in six pails of clean water and make it boil ; while this is getting hot, rinse the goods in two separate waters and hang them to drain ; then take three-quarters of a pound of logwood chips, one-half pound of fustic chips, one-half pound of hypernic and two ounces of blue vitriol, tie these in a thin cotton cloth bag, boil them in the six pails of water in the ket- tle for fifteen minutes, then let the dye cease boiling, leave the bag in, put in the goods and push them gently under the dye, handle them well for ten minutes before boiling, then boil for one-half hour and handle them well all the time to prevent them getting tangled or wrinkled ; take them out and cool them. If - the color is not dark enough now, take CLEANSING AND COLORING BOOK. 149 them out add more logwood chips and hypernic to the dye- stuffs in the bag, boil it again in the dye for ten minutes, then put the goods in and boil them for fifteen minutes ; take them out, cool, and hang them to drain for a time, rinse them well in three separate waters, and hang them to dry. For drying and pressing, see pages 5, 6 and 7. To Color Wine Color on Scarlet Woolen Sacques, Shawls or other Heavy Goods. For cleaning woolen goods before dyeing, see page 10. For four pounds of goods use six pails of water, make it boil, put in two ounces of bi-chromate of potash, stir it up a few minutes, or until dissolved, then let it cease boiling and put in the goods, handle them well for ten minutes before boiling, boil them three-quarters of an hour ; handle them well while boiling to prevent them from tangling ; take them out, cool and hang to drain. Throw out the contents of the kettle, put in six pails of clean water and make it boil ; while this is getting hot, rinse the goods in two separate waters and hang them to drain; take one pound of logwood chips, one-half pound of fustic chip v s, one-half pound of hypernic and two ounces of blue vitriol ; tie these dye stuffs up in a thin cot- ton cloth bag boil them fifteen minutes in the six pails of water in the kettle, let the dye cease boiling, leave in the bag, put in the goods and push them gently under the dye handle them well for ten minutes before boiling, then boil 150 SCIENTIFIC AND KELIABLE them for one-half hour, handle them well to prevent tangling and wrinkling ; then take them out and cool them well. If they are not dark enough now, then add more logwood chips and hypernie to the dye-stuffs that were left in the bag, and boil the bag in the dye for ten minutes, then put in the goods and boil them for fifteen minutes, take them out, cool, and hang them to drain for a time, then rinse them thor- oughly in three separate waters, drain them for a few min- utes and hang to dry. For drying and pressing, see pages 5, 6 and 7. GENERAL REMARKS CONCERNING BROWN DYES. Nearly all colors can be dyed in two or more ways, and with different dye-staffs. We have several ways of color- ing browns ; the so-called chrome brown which we have given you in the preceding pages is a fine and durable color. Still we give another process which will produce quite as good a color ; the shade has a little more bronze, but it is a much easier and quicker way of coloring, as the goods can be dyed in one liquid, whilst other methods re- quire them to be prepared in one liquid, then rinsed, and dyed in another The process we propose to describe is much used in home coloring in Europe, on account of the saving of time and labor compared with other methods of coloring brown. CLEANSING AND COLORING BOOK. 151 SIMPLIFIED METHOD OF COLORING BROWN. To Color Medium Brown on White Woolen Dress Goods or Shawls. For making up and cleaning woolen goods before dyeing, see page 5 and 9. For four pounds of goods use six pail of water, make this boil, then put in one pound of fustic chips tied in a thin cotton cloth bag, boil for one-half hour, then take out the bag and put in one and one-half ounces of crushed red tartar, one and one-half ounces of powdered nut gall and one pound of camwood, stir the dye for a minute, let it cease boiling, put in the goods and handle them well for ten minutes before boiling, then boil for one hour, handle the goods well while boiling, then take them out and cool them well ; add two ounces of copperas to the dye, stir it up a few minutes until dissolved, then let it cease boiling, put in the goods, handle them a few minutes with out boiling, then boil for one-half hour, stir them up well at the same time ; (do not handle them much above the dye, as the air makes this color darker) ; take them out, cool, | and shake out most of the dye-stuffs, rinse them well in two separate waters and they are finished. For drying, stiffening and pressing dresses, see pages 5, 6 and 7. For drying and pressing shawls, see pages 5 and 7. 152 SCIENTIFIC AND KELIABLE To Color Medium Brown on Drab or Grey Woolen Dress Goods or Shawls. For making up and cleaning woolen goods before dj^eing, see pages 5 and 9. For four pounds of goods use six pails of water, make it boil, then put in one pound of fustic chips tied in a thin cotton cloth bag, boil for one-half hour, then s( take out the bag and put in one ounce of crushed red tartar, ol one ounce of powdered nut gall and three-quarters of a ai pound of camwood, stir the dye for a minute, then let it u] cease boiling, put in the goods and handle them for ten min- utes without boiling, boil for three-quarters of an hour and handle them well all the time, then take them out and cool them well. Add one and one-half ounces of copperas to the* dye, stir it up a few minutes until dissolved, then let the dye cease boiling, put in the goods and handle them well for a few minutes without boiling, then let them boil for one- half hour, stir them well at the same time ; (do not handle them much above the dye as the air makes this color darker); take them out, cool, and shake most of the dye-stuffs out of of them, rinse them in two separate waters and they are fin- ished. For stiffening, drying and pressing dresses, see pages 5, 6 and 7. For drying and pressing shawls, see pages 5 and 7. CLEANSING AND COLORING- BOOK. 153 To Color Dark Brown on White Woolen Dress Goods or Shawls. For making up and cleaning woolen goods before dyeing, see pages 5 and 9. For four pounds of goods use six pails of water, make it boil, put in two pounds of fustic chips and one-half pound of logwood chips, (tie these dye-stuffs up in a thin cotton cloth bag), boil for one-half hour, then take out the bag and put in two ounces of crushed red tar- tar, two ounces of powdered nut gall and one and one-half pound of camwood, stir the dye for a minute, then let it cease boiling and put in the goods, handle them ten minutes without boiling, boil them for one hour and handle them well at the same time, take out and cool them well ; add two and one-half ounces of copperas to the dye, stir it for a few minutes until dissolved, then put the goods in and handle them a few minutes without boiling, boil them for one-half hour, stir them well at the same time; (do not handle them too much above the dye, as the air makes the color darker); take them out, cool them, and shake out most of the dye- stuffs, rinse them well in two separate waters and they are finished. For drying, stiffening and pressing dresses, see pages 5, 6 and 7. For drying and pressing shawls, see pages 5 and 7. 20 154 SCIENTIFIC AND KELIABLE To Color Dark Brown on Green, Pink, Lavender, Light Blue or Grey Woolen Dress Goods or Shawls. For making up and cleaning woolen goods before dyeing, see pages 5 and 9. For four pounds of goods use six pails of water, make it boil, then put in two pounds of fustic chips and one-quarter of a pound of logwood chips, (tie these up in a thin cotton bag), boil for one-half hour, then take out the bag and put in two ounces of crushed red tar- tar, two ounces of powdered nut gall and one and one-quar- ter pounds of camwood, stir the dye for a few minutes, then let it cease boiling, put in the goods handle them for ten min- utes without boiling, boil them one hour and handle them at the same time, take them out and cool them well ; add two ounces of copperas to the d}^e, stir it a few minutes until dissolved, let the dye cease boiling, put in the goods and handle them a few minutes before boiling, then boil them for one-half hour, stir them well at the same time ; (do not. handle them much above the dye, as the air makes this color darker) ; take them out and cool them, shake out most of the dye-stuffs, then rinse 'them in two separate waters, and they are finished. For drying, stiffening and pressing dresses, see pages 5, 6 and 7. For drying and pressing shawls see pages 5 and 7. CLEANSING AND COLORING BOOK. 155 To Color Dark Brown on Navy Blue or Purple Woolen Dress Goods or Shawls. For making up and cleaning woolen goods before dyeing, see pages 5 and 9. For four pounds of goods use six pail of water, make this boil, then put in two pounds of fustic chips tied in a thin cotton cloth bag, boil for one-half hour, then take the bag out of the dye and put in two ounces of crushed red tartar, two ounces of powdered nut gall and one and one-half pound of camwood, stir the dye for a minute, let it cease boiling, put in the goods and handle them well for ten minutes before boiling, then boil for one hour, handle the goods well while boiling, then take them out and cool them well. If they are not dark enough (it is likely they will be), add a little copperas to the dye, stir it up a few minutes until dissolved, then let it cease boiling, put in the goods, handle them a few minutes with- out boiling, boil and stir them well for twenty minutes, or un- til dark enough ; (do not handle them much above the dye, as the air makes this color darker) ; take them out, cool, and shake out most of the dye-stuffs, rinse them well in two separate waters and they are finished. For drying, stiffening and pressing dresses, see pages 5, 6 and 7. For drying and pressing shawls, see 'pages 5 and 7. 156 SCIENTIFIC AND KELIABLE To Color Dark Brown on Red Woolen Dress Goods or Shawls. For making up and cleaning woolen goods before dyeing, see pages 5 and 9. For four pounds of goods, use six pails of water, make it boil, then put in two pounds of fustic chips and four ounces of logwood chips , tied up in a thin cotton cloth bag, boil this one half hour, the take out the bag, put in two ounces of crushed red tartar and two ounces of powdered nut gall, stir the dye for a minute, let it cease boiling and put in the goods, handle them well for ten min- utes without boiling, then boil for one hour, handle the goods well at the same time, take them out and cool them well ; add two ounces of copperas to the dye, stir it a few minutes until dissolved, let it cease boiling and put in the goods, handle them for a few minutes before boiling, boil them one- half hour and stir them well at the same time ; (do not handle them much above the dye as the air makes this color darker) ; take them out, cool them, and shake out most of the dye-stuffs, then rinse them in two separate waters and they are finished. For drying, stiffening and pressing dresses, see pages 5, 6 and 7. For drying and pressing shawls, see pages 5 and 7. CLEANSING AND COLORING BOOK. To Re-Dye Faded Dark Brown Woolen Dress Goods or Shawls. For making up and cleaning woolen goods before dyeing, see pages 5 and 9. For four pounds of goods use six pails of water, make it boil, then put in one pound of fustic chips and four ounces of logwood chips tied up in a thin cotton cloth bag, boil this one half hour, then take out the bag and put in two ounces of crushed red tartar, two ounces of pow- dered nut gall and three-quarters of a pound of camwood, stir the dye up for a minute, let it cease boiling, put in the goods, handle them well for ten minutes without boiling, then boil for one-half hour, handle the goods all the time, take them out and cool them ; add one ounce of copperas to the dye, stir it for a few minutes until dissolved, let it cease boiling, put in the goods, handle them well for a few minutes without boiling, then boil for twenty minutes, stir them well at the same time ; (do not handle them much above the dye, as the air makes this color darker) ; take them out, cool them, and shake out most of the dye-stuffs, then rinse them well in two separate waters and they are finished. For drying, stiffening and pressing dresses, see see pages 5, 6 and 7. For drying and pressing shawls, see pages 5 and 7. 158 SCIENTIFIC AND KELIABLE To Color Dark Brown on White Woolen Sacques, Shawls, or other Heavy Goods. For cleaning woolen goods before dyeing, see page 10. For four pounds of goods use six pails of water, make it boil, put in two pounds of fustic chips and twelve ounces of logwood chips tied in a thin cotton bag, boil one-half hour, take out the bag and put in two ounces of crushed red tartar, two ounces of powdered nut gall and two pounds of camwood, stir the dye up for one minute, then let it cease boiling, put in the goods and handle them for ten min- utes without boiling, let them boil for one hour and handle them well at the same time, then take them out and cool them well. Add three ounces of copperas to the same dye, stir it up a few minutes until dissolved, then let the dye cease boiling, put in the goods and handle them well for a few minutes without boiling, then let them boil for one- half hour, stir them well at the same time ; (do not handle them much above the dye as the air makes this color darker); take them out, cool, and shake most of the dye-stuffs out of them, rinse them in three separate waters, drain them for a time and hang to dry ; when dry, shake, and beat the dust out of them before pressing. For drying and pressing, see pages 5 and 6. CLEANSING AND COLORING BOOK. 159 To Color Dark Brown on Blue Woolen Sacques, or other Heavy Goods. For cleaning woolen goods before dyeing, see page 10. For four pounds of goods use six pails of water, make it boil, then put in two pounds of fustic chips tied in a thin cotton cloth bag, boil this one-half hour, then take out the bag, put in two ounces of crushed red tartar, two ounces of powdered nut gall and two pounds of camwood, stir the dye for a minute, let it cease boiling, put in the goods and handle them well for ten minutes before boiling, then boil for one hour, handle them well at the same time, then take them out and cool them. If they are not dark enough now (it is like- ly they will be), add a little copperas to the dye and stir it up for a few minutes until dissolved, let it cease boiling and put in the goods, handle a few minutes without boiling, then boil for twenty minutes, stir them well at the same time (do not handle the goods much above the dye, as the air makes this color darker) ; take them out, cool and shake out most of the dye-stuffs rinse thoroughly in three separate waters, drain a few minutes and hang to dry. When dry, shake and beat out the dust before pressing. For drying and pressing, see pages 5 and 6. 160 SCIENTIFIC AND RELIABLE To Color Dark Brown on Red Woolen Sacques, or other Heavy Goods, For cleaning woolen goods before dyeing, see page 10. For four pounds of goods use six pails of water, make it boil, then pux in two pounds of fustic chips and three-quar- ters of a pound of logwood chips tied in a thin cotton cloth bag, boil this for one-half hour, then take out the bag and put in two ounces of crushed red tartar and two ounces of powdered nut gall, stir the dye for a minute, let it cease boiling, put in the goods and handle them well for ten min- utes without boiling, then boil them for one hour, handle them well all the time, take them out and cool them ; add two and one-half ounces of copperas to the dye, stir it a few minutes until dissolved, let it cease boiling, put in the goods and handle them a few minutes without boiling, then boil for one-half hour, stir them well at the same time, (do not handle them much above the dye, as the air makes this color darker) ; take them out and cool. If they are not dark enough now, add more copperas to the dye, when this is dissolved, put in the goods, boil them fifteen minutes, take them out, cool, and shake out most of the dye-stuffs, then rinse them thoroughly in three separate waters, drain them for a time, and hang to dry. When the goods are dry, shake and beat out the dust before pressing. For drying and pressing, see pages 5 and 6. CLEANSING AND COLORING BOOK. 161 To Color Dark Brown on Drab or Grey Woolen Cloth- ing. Gentlemen's Wear or Ladies' Sacques. For cleaning woolen goods before dyeing, see page 10. For four pounds of goods use six pails of water, make it boil, put in two pounds of fustic chips and twelve ounces of logwood chips tied in a thin cotton bag, boil one-half hour, take out the bag and put in two ounces of crushed red tartar, two ounces of powdered nut gall and two pounds of camwood, stir the dye up for one minute, then let it cease boiling, put in the goods and handle them for ten min- utes without boiling, then let them boil for one hour and handle them at the same time, then take them out and cool them well. Add three ounces of copperas to the same dye, stir it up a few minutes until dissolved, then let the dye cease boiling, put in the goods and handle them well for a few minutes without boiling, then let them boil for one- half hour, stir them well at the same time ; (do not handle them much above the dye as the air makes this color darker); take them out, cool, and let them drain for a time, shake most of the dye-stuffs out. of them, rinse them in three separ- ate waters, drain them for a time and hang to dry ; when dry, shake, and beat the dust out of them before pressing. For drying and pressing, see pages 5 and 6. 21 SCIENTIFIC AND KELIABLE To Color Dark Brown on Blue-Black Woolen Cloth- ing. Gentlemen's Wear and Ladies' Sacques. For cleaning woolen goods before dyeing, see page 10. For four pounds of goods use six pails of water, make it boil, then put in two pounds of fustic chips tied in a thin cotton cloth bag, boil this one-half hour, then take out the bag, put in two ounces of crushed red tartar, two ounces of powdered nut gall and two pounds of camwood, stir the dye for a minute, let it cease boiling, put in the goods and handle them well for ten minutes before boiling, then boil for one hour, handle them well at the same time, then take them out and cool them well ; add one ounce of copperas to the dye, stir it a few minutes until dissolved, let the dye cease boil- ing, put in the goods, push them gently under the dye and handle them a few minutes before boiling, then boil them twenty minutes, stir them well at the same time ; (do not handle them much above the dye, as the air makes this color darker) ; take them out and cool them. If the color is not dark enough add a little more copperas to the dye, when this is dissolved put in the goods and boil them for fifteen minutes, then take them out, cool, and drain for a time, shake out most of the dye-stuffs, then rinse them thor- oughly in three separate waters, drain them for a time and hang to dry. When dry, shake and beat out the dust before pressing. For drying and pressing, see pages 5 and 6. CLEANSING AND COLORING BOOK. 163 To Re-Dye Faded Brown Woolen Clothing. Gentle- men's Wear or Ladies' Sacques. For cleaning woolen goods before dyeing, see page 10. For four pounds of goods use six pail of water, make this boil, then put in one pound of fustic chips and six ounces of logwood chips tied in a thin cotton bag, boil one-half hour ; take the bag out of the dye and put in one ounce of crushed red tartar, one ounce of powdered nut gall and one pound of camwood, stir the dye for a minute, let it cease boiling, put in the goods and push them gently under the dye, handle them well for ten minutes before boiling, then boil for three-quarters of an hour, handle the goods well while boiling, then take them out and cool them well. Add one and one-half ounces of copperas to the dye. stir it up a few minutes until dissolved, then let it cease boiling, put in the goods, push them gently under the dye, handle them a few minutes without boiling, boil and stir them well for twenty minutes, (do not handle them much above the dye, as the air makes this color darker) ; then take them out. If they are not dark enough add a little more copperas to the dye, when this is dissolved put in the goods again and boil for fifteen minutes, then take them out and cool them, shake out most of the dye-stuffs, rinse them well in three separate waters and then hang them to dry. When dry, shake out most of the dust before pressing. For drying and press- ing, see pages 5 and 6. 164 SCIENTIFIC AND RELIABLE To Clean and Re-Dye Faded Crimson Woolen Damask Curtains, Furniture Goods, or Cloth Table Spreads and Piano Covers (a Fast Color). For five pounds of goods use four pails of water, make it boil, put in three-quarters of a pound of soap cut up into shavings, add two pounds of sal-soda and boil until dissolved, pour this into a tub and put three pails of water into the ket- tle and make it boil ; while this is getting hot add two pails of cold water to the liquor in the tub, put in the goods and handle them well for twenty minutes, take them out, cool, and hang to drain. Throw out the contents of the tub and put in the three pails of boiling water from the kettle, add three pails of cold water ; then put seven pails of water into the kettle and make it boil ; while this is getting hot, rinse the goods in the warm water in the tub, then rinse them in two separate cold waters and hang them to drain ; they are now ready for dyeing. Take one pound of ground alum, one-half pound of crushed red tartar and one pound of bran, put all these dye-stuffs into the seven pails of boiling water in the kettle, stir it for five minutes, then let it cease boiling and put in the goods, handle them well for ten minutes be- fore boiling, then boil for one hour and handle the goods well while boiling, (be careful not to tear the goods in hand- ling, as they are often very tender in the sun-burnt or faded parts) ; take them out, cool, hang them to drain in a cool CLEANSING AND COLOKING BOOK. 165 place, and leave them until next day, (cover them over with a cloth to prevent them getting dry on the top) ; rinse out the kettle and put in seven pails of clean water, make it boil; while this is getting hot, rinse the goods in two separate waters and hang to drain ; take six ounces of ground cochi- neal and one ounce of crushed red tartar, put these into the seven pails of boiling water in the kettle, stir for five min- utes, let it cease boiling, put in the goods, handle them well for ten minutes before boiling, then boil for three-quarters of an hour, handle them well at the same time, take them out, cool them well, rinse them in two separate waters and hang to dry. (This color will last as long as the goods in either sun or shade). The goods require no stiffening ; press them with a dry cotton cloth between the iron and the goods ; press the table spreads and piano covers on the wrong side. To Clean and Re-Dye Faded Crimson Woolen Damask Curtains or Furniture Goods, Cloth Table Spreads and Piano Covers, (Not a Fast Color.) For cleaning and rinsing these goods, see instructions in preceding recipe. For five pounds of goods, use seven pails of water, make it boil, then put in one cupful of dissolved red aniline (for dissolving red aniline see page 9), stir it up well, let it cease boiling, put in the goods and handle them as quick as possible for a few minutes until the dye is even- 166 SCIENTIFIC AND RELIABLE ly distributed on the goods before boiling, then boil for twenty minutes, handle the goods well at the same time, take them out and cool them. If they are not dark enough, or or the color is uneven, add more aniline to the dye, stir it up, put in the goods and boil for fifteen minutes, then take them out, rinse them well in two separate waters, drain for a time and hang to dry in the shade. They will require no stiffening. Press with not very hot iron and put a dry cot- ton cloth between the iron and the goods. Press the table spreads and piano covers on the wrong side. To Clean and Re-Dye Faded Green Woolen Damask Curtains or Furniture Goods, Cloth Table Spreads and Piano Covers, or Color them Crimson, (Not a Fast Color). For five pounds of goods dissolve two pounds of sal- soda in two pails of boiling water, pour this into a tub, put six pails of water in a kettle, make it boil ; while this is get- ting hot, add three pails of water to the sal-soda in the tub, stir it and put in the goods, handle them well for fifteeen minutes, then put them under the liquid and leave them until the water in the kettle is boiling, handle them two or three times. Then take them out and put them into the boiling water in the kettle (without rinsing) handle them well for fifteen minutes, or until the color is discharged or CLEANSING AND COLORING BOOK. 167 I turned drab, (keep the kettle on the fire but do not let it I boil.) Take out the goods, cool, and rinse them well in two I separate waters. Now they are ready to be colored either I crimson or green again ; If you prefer crimson, color in the I same way as described in preceding recipe, if green, color as I follows : Get five pails of water hand-warm, put in two I tablespoonsful of oil of vitriol, stir it up, put in the goods, I handle them well for ten minutes, then take them out and I hang to drain, (do not let them touch other goods as the I oil of vitriol is liable to damage them). Throw out the con- I tents of the kettle, put in seven pails of clean water and I then put in one and one-half pounds of fustic chips tied up I in a thin cotton cloth bag, boil for twenty minutes, then I take out the bag and put in eight ounces of ground alum I and one-half pint of indigo paste, stir it up for ten minutes I then let it cease boiling and put in the goods, handle them I as quickly as possible until the dye is evenly distributed on I the goods before boiling, 'boil for twenty minutes, then take them out and cool them. If the color is too yellow, add more indigo paste, if too blue, add more fustic chips to the old dye-stuffs in the bag boil again and stir up the dye, put in the goods again and boil until the goods have acquired the desired shade, then take them out, cool, rinse in two separate waters, drain for a time and hang to dry; they will require no stiffening. Press them with a moderately hot iron ; put a dry cotton cloth between the iron and the goods. Press the table spreads and piano covers on the wrong side. 168 SCIENTIFIC AND RELIABLE THE ART OF DYEING COTTON AND LINEN. To Color Lemon Color on Bleached Cotton or Linen Goods. For two pounds of goods use three pails of water, make it boil, then put in ten ounces of sugar of lead, boil it fif- teen minutes, then remove the kettle from the fire, wet the goods thoroughly in warm water, wring and shake them, put them into the liquid, handle them for fifteen minutes? then put them under the liquid and soak for twenty-four hours, wring them up and put them down again two or three times during that time, take them out, wring and shake them. Throw the liquid into a tub, and put three pails of clean water in the kettle, make it boil, then put in eight ounces of bi-chromate of potash, stir it until dissolved? then remove the kettle from the fire, put in the goods and handle them well for twenty minutes, take them out, wring and shake them, then return them to the cold liquor in the tub, handle for fifteen minutes, then take them out, wring and shake them, put them into the hot dye in the kettle, handle for ten minutes, then take them out and rinse them well in two separate waters, and they are finished. [ESTABLISHED 1865.] D. DEAYENPORT, WHOLESALE DEALER IN foreign and Domestic f;mi% TsTTJTS^ IE] TO GEJfpjlAX- COJVIJVIISSIOJI J&pjLCflJlJiT. BUTTER, EGGS AND CHEESE A SPECIALTY. EAST MAIN STREET. (Liberty Pole Commission House.) ROCHESTER, N. Y. WIcLEAItf & CROOKS, PRODUCE COMMISSION MERCHANTS, JOBBERS IN FOREIGN FRUITS, ETC. Vegetables and Berries in Season Specialties. 346 EAST MAIN ST., ROCHESTER, N. Y. W. G. REID, I Plumber Gas >nd Steam Fitter AND DEALER IN PLUMBERS' GOODS, 117 K. MAIN ST. A A A A A A A A A A AAA AAAAAAA W W # W WW W # 9