mm Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2015 https://archive.org/details/norfolktourortraOObeat THE NORFOLK TOUR: O R, Traveller's Pocket Companion, BEING A CONCISE DESCRIPTION OF ALL THE PRINCIPAL TOWNS, NOBLEMENS and GENTLEMENS SEATS, And other Remarkable Places. IN THE COUNTY of NORFOLK. Compiled from the moil: authentic Hiftorians and modern Travellers^ and corrected to the prefent Tirtie. TO WHICH ARE ADDED, An Index ViLLARis^for the County^ AND A Short Account of the chief Towns in S U F FOLK. The Fifth EDITION, .greatly enlarged and improved. Nefcio qua natale folum dulcedine cun6los Ducit, et immemores non linit efTe fui. N O P. W I C Hi Printed and Sold by R. Beatniffe^ in CoGkey-Lane, M.DCC.XCV. THE J. PAUL GETTY CENTER LIBRARY PREFACE. T HE Hiftorles of Norfolk, and its prin- cipal Towns, are comprifed in fo many folios, quartos, and books of all fizes, as colle<3:LveIy are too voluminous and ex- penfive, and feveral of them too Icarce, to be eafily procured. Thefe, amongft other rcafons, have induced me to comprefs into as fmall a Gompafs as pofTible, to be ufeful to a Gentleman Traveller, an epitome of what feemed worthy of particular notice in the county ; compiled from the labours of Camden, Spelnian, Blomefield, Parkin, Swinden, Mackrell, Browne, Martin, and others of lefs confequence. In this edition much has been added to the former de- fcriptions of Norwich, Lynn, Yarmouth, Thetford, and almoft every other place in the county. The diftances in meafured miles, of every town in the county from Norwich, has been correded in more than two hundred and fifty places, and with the Poft PREFACE. Poll Roads, to many cf the principal cities^, and manufa(5]urirg towns in England, will, I am perfuadcd, prove extcnfively ufcful, and very cxafl. The Parochial Lift of the inhabit, nts at different periods, and the Tabks of pjaptifms and Burials in Norwich, from I 7 19 to 1 743 and 1 784 to 1 794, have been cxtracfled from manufcript papers, and regular returns for the laft eleven years. The Lifts of Knights of the Shire, and Re- prcfentatlves for the City, from the Refto- ration to the prefent time, with the flate of the poll at each contefted Ele^Vion, have in part been taken from different MS. co- pies, compared with each other, and 1 be- lieve are not to be found complete In any other printed book. The Biography has been conliderably enlarged ; and in ihoi t, from the new m.aterlals interfperfed through ahiioft every part, fince the publication of the Fourth Edition, in 1786, this may perhaps more properly be called a new work^ than the revlfal of an old one. If in making thefe numerous additions^, correilions and emendations, and endea* vouring to notice thofe changes which the deflroying P R E F A C E. deftroying hand of Time, or the improve- ment: of modern Ingenuity dally occafion^ it fhould be thought that I have feleftcd fome things which might as weil have beeu omitted, and neglecJled others of greater importance, I plead in excufe, that 1 do not flatter myfelf fo far as to imagine, that out of fuch an heterogeneous mafs of materials as I have turned over, I can have chofen thofe parts only which will be approved of by every reader j I know 'tis impoffible ; but having exerted my beft en- deavours to compile an ufeful, and in fome inftances, an entertaining Book, I am per- fuaded that thefmalier defe 10 THE NORFOLK TOUR. Councilmen, are fhut up clofe in a room in the Town Hall, without meat, drink, fire or candle, till there be a majority of one mind. On thefe occafions a variety of fhifts have been frequently pradifed by the con- tending parties, to flarve or tire out their opponents, Yarmouth fent reprefentatives to parliament in the reign of Edward I, (Ed. reigned from 1271 to 1307) which is as early as Norwich and Lynn : they are chofen by the Freemen, in number about 800, who are free by inheritance, fervitude or purchafe, and the returning officer is the Mayor. The arms are, per pale gules and argent y three demy lions empaling three her* rings tails. The corporation has particular and ex- tenfive privileges ; here is a Court of Record and Admiralty, and the Mayor and Magiflrates are con- fervators of the Waveney to St. Olave's Bridge, 10 miles ; the Yare to Hardley-crofs, 10 miles ; and the Bure to Weybridge, 10 miles ; within which limits the laws of dillrefs and attachment can be executed by their officers only : Up to one of thefe boundaries, there is a grand aquatic proceffion in July every year^ when it is ufual particularly to drink to the Gentle- man who it is intended fhould ferve the office of mayor for the enfuing year. A fair is annually held here on Friday and Saturday in Eafler week. The markets onWednefday and Saturday, are plentifully fupplied, particularly with fruits and vegetables, which are remarkably good. The polite amufements of the Theatre, AfTembly-room, and Concerts, during the bathing feafon, render the refidence of llrangers per- fectly agreeable \ and thofe who are fond of lifhing, ihooting^ THE NORFOLK TOUR. Ihooting, failing or bowling, will find ample oppor- tunities of gratifying thofe inclinations. The herrings come by the North Eaft off Scotland in prodigious fhoals, and arrive on the coail of Yar- mouth about the 20th of September,* at which time the fifhing fair begins, and continues till the 22d of November ; when the herrings are no longer fit for merchandife, at leall not thofe that are taken here- abouts. Every veflel that comes to fifli for the mer- chants, from any part of England, is allowed to catch, bring in, and fell their fifh, free of all duty or tolL The average value of the Yarmouth fifhing boats com- pletely fitted for the fea, may be eftimated at 600L each, fome of the largefl cqH near loool. A fingle boat has been known to bring in 12 lafl of herrings atone time; a laft is 10 barrels, or 10,000 herrings, and when cured, are worth about 1 61. In the year 1 784 fifty-five boats were fitted out from Yarmouth, forty from Lowelloft, fifty from Whitby, Scarborough, Sec, and fixty-two came from Holland. In 1788 eighty- feven Dutch Schuyts came to this fifhery. Each boat carries eleven hands. To thofe who take delight in feeing others pleafed, without themfelves being particularly interefted in v/hat is going forward, itmuft give much pleafure to be- hold the cheerful adivity of the fifhermen on the beach, when landing and carrying off the herrings. In 1580 two thoufand lall of herrings were brought into the Haven * The Dutch arc obliged to be at Sea, and wet their Nets on the 2ift of September. The Yarmouth Fifhermen feldem go out before the 26th. 12 THE NORFOLK TOUR. Haven in one tide ; and in 1593 the fifliing nets were valued at 50,000!. The veflels fitted out by the Merchants of Yarmouth for the Herring Fifhery, are decked boats of 40 or 50 tons burden ; thofe which come from Scarborough, Whitby, and other Northern Ports, and engage to fifti for the Yarmouth Mercliants and Tradefmen, during the feafon, are open boats called Cobles, of about 20 tons burden, and generally bring in two or three lafts of herrings every trip. Some years back feveral vef- fels called Barks ufed to come to this fifliery from the coafts of Kent and SulTex, but they have not lately appeared. About one hundred and fifty vefTels, are employed in this fifliery, and between 30 and 40 in the expor- tation i and when it is confidered what numbers of people are always bufy on fhore, in faking, drying and packing in the time of the fifhery, as alfo the em- ployment it occafions during great part of the year to the coopers and fhip-wrights, it may eafxly be ima- gined that this Fifhery is of the firil confequence to the town of Yarmouth. In the beginning of the reign of King Charles 11. Yarmouth employed 155 boats and barks, commnnihus annisy in the North Sea and Iceland Fifheries. Fifty thoufand barrels or 500a lails^ containing 50,000,000 of herrings are generally taken and cured here in one year. Thefe herrings are for the mofl part exported by the Merchants ot Yarmouth, the refl by thofe of London^ to Italy and Spain., Mackrel THE NORFOLK TOUR, *Mackrel arrive upon the Yarmouth coall: the latter lend of April and beginning of May, where they con«3 tinue about fix weeks, during which time large quan- tities are caught and fent principally to the London and Norwich markets, where they meet with a ready fale; Thefe fifheries, together with another to the North Seas for white fi(h, called North Sea Cod, a brilk trade to Holland, France, Norway and the Baltic, for deals, oak, pitch, tar, and all other naval Hores ; the exportation of corn, malt, and flour which often a- Tnounts to f three hundred and 33 thoufand quarters^ a year ; the Hiipping of the greater part of the fluffs manufadtured at Norwich for foreign markets ; the importation of coals, which is allowed to amount to 70,000 chaldrons annually, with other articles of mer- chandife from the North, and the heavy goods from London, configned to Norwich, Bungay, Beccles, all together occafion much bufinefs, and employ abun- dance of hands and fhipping. Befides fifhing vefTels, upwards of 300 (hips belong to this port ; and the feamen, as well mailers as ma- riners, are juilly eileemed amongfl the ablell and moil expert navigators in England. The fituation of this town is very commodious for trade, the river Yare being navigable hence to Nor- wich, which is 32 miles, for keels of fifty tons bar- den ; befides, there is a navigation by the Waveney * A Mackrel fent from Yarmouth in 1792, ineafured 17 inches frcm the fnout to the tip point of the tail, 8 inches i-half round the thickeft part, and weighed 25 ounces. This is to be confidered as one of the largeft (ize. f The average export of the years 1791, 1792 and 1793 was 267,378 quarters 5 value 446,796!, iis; 14 THE NORFOLK TOUR. to Bungay, the South parts of Norfolk, and the North of Suffolk. After viewing the Church, St. George's Chapel, the Quay, AlTembly-houfe, the Fort and Batteries, with perhaps a fleet of 50 or 60 merchant fhips under fail, in various diredions ; which is not at all an un- ccmnaon profped ; there is nothing in the town more worthy of notice than Mr, Boulter's Mufeum in the Market-place, who by great induftry, with much tafle, and at a confiderable expence, has colledled a curious affortment of Englifh and foreign birds, fhells corals, corallines and fea fans ; an affortment of fpars, fluors, chryftals, agates, onyxes, fardonyxes, porphyries, and other beautiful Hones ; petrified Ihells, corals, woods, ferns and other antediluvian re- mains ; many fpecimens of ores, metals, fulphers, falts and folTils ; £{h dried and in fpirits. Britiih, Roman, Saxon and Englifh coins and medals in gold, filver and copper ; antique bronzes ; carvings in v^ood, ftone and ivory ; old feah, rings, amulets, fibu- las, keys and fpiirs : old paintings on ivory, copper, wood and canvas : ancient weapons of war, and war- like habiliments ; antique illuminations on vellum and paper : pieces of ancient flaiaed glafs ; brafs figures and infcriptions ; Britifh celts, Roman urnr, pater as and lachrymatories, many warlike inftruments, dreffes, fifhing tackle, &c. brought from Otaheite and other iflands in the great South Seas by the fhips who vyent that voyage under the command of Captain Cook. The whole commodioufly difpofed in a con- venient room for view : and his fhop may perhaps, not inaptly be called, a neat magazine of modern niceties. Mr, THE NORFOLK TOUR. Mr. }• D» Downes has a large coile(5lion of valua- ble Pigeons, and other Birds, well worth the notice of the curious. A traveller wifliing to fee this town to advantage, with refped to amufement, fcould make it a vifit ia the bathing feafon, during the months of July, Au- gufl or September, when a great deal of genteel com- pany from London, moft parts of the county, and SuiFolk, affemble here, either for the purpofe of health or pleafure. A cart of a Angular conitru£lIon, adapted to the narrownefs of the roivs of this place, and ufed in no other towa in England, merits a fhort defcription ; efpecially as it is faid that more work may be done with it, and at lefs expence, than with auy other car- riage, in the fame Ipace of time. The length from the tip of the fhafts, or firings, to the extreme of the feat is twelve feet, the breath three feet and a half; the wheels being two feet nine inches high, are feme- times made of one folid piece of poplar or afh, five inches thick, without tire ; but thefe are not fo much in ufe as formerly ; th-ey are now generally made with fpokes and fellies ; ihod with tire, the fpokes being mortifed into the axletree, which is a cylindrical piece of oak twelve inches thick, having an iron pin of about an inch diameter, drove through the v/hole length, and projeding about &ur inches at each end ; thefe work in two ftrong flaples fixed into the under part of the firings or fhafts behind. Over the wheels the feat is placed, upon which the company ride for pleafure. The driver, with a fhort whip, flanding C before i6 THE NORFOLK TOUR. before upon the crofs ftaves of the cart, guides thehorie with a rein. Thefe carriages are never drawn by more than one horfe^ the lhafts being fallen ed to a collar on the top of his fhoulders, the horfe having a cart-faddle on his back, over which goes the back- band. There are a number of thefe carti daily em- ployed in carrying goods to and from the fhipping, and about the town ; they are variouily conftrufl- ed according to l^ie fever al purpofes of pleaiure and bulinefs^ the brewers having them of greater length, and thofs ufed for pleafure being lighter than the com- mon work carts, which have two iron pins ft an ding upright through the feat, about nine inches long for the conveniency of failening goods to ; upon the feat and crofs ftaves at the bottom, the whole about fiX feet in length, all kinds of goods are placed. In Sum- mer, and particularly during the bathing feafoUj a number of thefe vehicles, which the people of Yar- mouth dignify by the name of coaches^ are let out to company who viiit the town, and chufe an excurf on to the Fort, an airing upon the Denes, or a jaunt into the country. The carriages for thefe purpofes are -generally painted red, green or blue, and may be had for a few hours for two fhillings, horfe and driver in- cluded. The Horfes ufed here are remarkable good trotters ; but from the uncouth conllrudlion of the car- riage, they feem to go thundering and blundering down the narrow rows, which the carts fo exadly iit as npt to be overturned, and along the Hreets, in a very difagreeable ipanner. In excurlions to the Fort, you are drove over the Denes nearly all the way, from whence THE NORFOLK TOUR, i; vvheiice there is a mofi charming profped of the Sea. For a company to have been at Yarmouth, and not to have rode in one of thefe carts, to the haven's mouth, the bath and the whole length of the quay, is to lofe perhaps one of the greateil pleafures this town is able to alFord. Upon the whole the Yarmouth cart-coacK is the moil: convenient, ufeful and wliimfical carriage Uiid in the kingdom. The Quay is allowed to be the longeft and hand- fomeil: :n Europe, that cf Seville in Spain only" excepted, being 1014 yardi* from the South gate to the bridge, above which, for fmaller veiTelb, it extends 1016 yards, i,. e» the whole length is one mile 270 yards, and in feme places it is 1 50 yards in breadth 5: from the bridge to the South gate,. it is decorated by a handfome range of buildings, amongfl which the Afiembly-houfe makes an elegant appearance ; add to this, that adtive fpirit of induilry fo eminently confpi-* cuous amongfl all ranks, but efpeclally the mercan-? tile people of Yarmouth upon the quay, and its be-?, ing almoft the only agreeable. walk in or near the place, render it infinitely the pleafanteft part cf the town, and the beftfituation for trade. The market-place is a handfome area, and if the- houfes fituated upon the Eafc fide were improved, it would be inferior to few in the kingdom ; there alfq v/ants a convenient filh market, and it is fhocking to fee butchers daily ilaughtering calves, fheep, &c.inthe centre of fuch an opulent town, reforted to by crowds of genteel company from almoft every part cf Eng- land. C 2 The i8 THE NORFOLK TOUR, The Theatre ere<^ed in 1778 at an expence of 1500I. is a neat building, well adapted to the in- tended purpofe ; it Hands on the fcite of a chapel for- merly belonging to the Dutch congregation. The Norwich company of comedians perform here for the fpace of fix weeks in the winter feafon^ and a Ihort time in the fummer. Bowling-greeu is pleafantly fituated upon the Eafc bank of the river;, and the affembly-room being cpen two nights in every week during the bathing feafon, agreeable entertainment canfeldom be wanting. The Bath-houfe was built in 17 59, and coft near 2000I. It ilands upon the beach, at about three fur- longs dlllance from St. George's Chapel. You enter a neat room 18 feet by 20 having two windows fronting the town and three next the fea, upon the right of the entrance are four clofcts, having each a door into the bath-room. The Bath is 1 5 feet in length by 8 feet wide ; this is the gentlemeas apartment, and that ap- propriated to the ufe of the ladies is fo much like it, that a particular defcription is unnecelTary, The fea water is raifed every tide by the afTiliance of a horfe- mill into a refervoir, at about 50 yards diflance from Baths, into which it is conveyed by feparate pipes. Inihort here is every conveniency to be defired by the Valetudinarian ; good accommodation, neatnefs and civility, without being, Tco ci^il hy half,^^ The Angel and Wreillers are good inns, and for thofe who prefer private lodgings, there are plenty in the town, Bear^ and to be had on reafonable terms, but in point of THE NORFOLK TOUR. 19 of pleafantnefs, thofe in the markci-place have a de- cided preference. A handfome public-room was built adjoining to the north end of the bath-houfe in 1788 ; it is 49 feet long, 27 wide, and 15 high, having 5 large windows in a femicircular form fronting the Sea ; here the company- are accommodated with tea and coffee every morning and afternoon, a public breakfailing every Tuefdayand Friday, and occalional concerts during the bathing feafon : the London and Country Newfpapers are pro- vided ; and, there being no CoiFee-room in the town, it is an excellent lounging place, well calculated agreeably to £11 up that tedious vacuity, which too often obtrudes upon a ftate of mere amufement, at a watering-place. The Subfcrlptlori is 5s for each Gentleman, and 2s. 6d. for a Lady, during the feafon, to go to the room whenever they pleafe ; and gd, for tea, is. tea and coffee, and 2S, 6d. each concert, to occafional vifitors. The Jetty clofe to the bath-houfe is ixo paces In length and 24 feet broad at the head, (where there is a crane) gradually decreafing to 7 feet on the land fide ; the fea breezes keep it cool, and the lively fcene of fhips almoft perpetually under fail, in various di- redions, render it a mofl defirable walk after bathing. St. Nicholas Church was founded by Herbert de Lozinga the firfl Bifhop of Norwich, about the year 1113, greatly enFarged in 1250, and the following year dedicated to' St. Nicholas, the patron of iiilier- C 3 men. 10 THE NORFOLK TOUR. men. It confiUs of three ailes ; the middle remarka- bly the leaft both in height and breadth, but in length it extends further towards the Eall than the other two, being 250 feet from Eall to Weft. The breadth of the three ailes together is 108 feet. It is a fpacious but not very neat church. The fpire ap» pears crooked in every direflion, and with the tower is 186 feet high, ferving for a very good fea-mark. At the Eaft end of the middle alle llands the com- munion table, where before the Reformation flood the great or high altar, and over it, a loft or perch called the Rood-loft, which fupported a large crucifix, be- hind which was a veftry. The Rood-loft, was ereded by Roger de Haddefco, prior of St. Olave's in 1370, and ornamented with curious decorations and devices, at his own expence ; it was called, Opus pre* ticfum area i?iagnum alt are i. e. the precious or coftly work about the great altar," an,d when light- ed by lamps and candles, (according to ancient cuf- tom) muft have appeared exceedingly fplendid and fo- lemn. Our pious anceftors fhewed great zeal in fup- porting the expences incurred by thefe lights, which were kept continually burning before the fhrines of the crucifixes, or thofe of their favourite faints ; for befides certain annual rents colledled by the wardens, whofe bulinefs it was to take care of fuch decorations,, legacies were frequently bequeathed to churches fer the fame purpofes. There formerly was a chronological table of remark- able events relating to Yarmouth^, hanging in the South aile of this Church, with the following whimficai and THE NORFOLK TOUR. and fingular obfervation. There ne^er as a teftimoriy of his right. It was 1the more eagerly coiitended for on accOuht of the many valuable goods call alhore upon it from' the'fhips 'loft on 'the coaft/paftieularly in the year 1582, v/hen fevei^al parcels of filk arid other valuable articles were fburid there ^and carried to Yarmouth, as had ^be^n iifaa}, ¥tid applied to the ufe of the town. The con- 't eft however between Ydrmbiith and Sir Edward Clere Was of ihoft duration^ for What neither law or equity 'had bdeh able to accotripliih, or perhaps would ^have fettled for mdhy years, the elements eafily and expe- ditioufly determined, for 'in the very fame year, a Ifti-ong eafterly Vv'ina fronii the walls and mounts, they fled ^^^^ ^^^r^^^P^^ 134S— '.Sevea thoufand and fifty people^ ^itd here af the Plague.— ~lu 1579 it carri^ed pit about 2000 . suid 1664, Zy^oo. died of the like peftileuce. Though Yarmouth Roads, on the Eaft-fide of the town, are very fafe, and the chief rendezvous of the colliers between Newcallle and London, and other merchantmen, which are conllantly palling and re- pairing, flill the coafl is particularly noted for being one of the moft dangerous and moll fatal to failors in all Britain, a melancholy inftance of which happened D z about so THE NORFOLK TOUR. about the year 1692, when a fleet of foo fail of light colliers went out of Yarmouth Roads, with a fair wind, to purfue their voyage, and were taken fliort with a fiorm of wind at North- e all. After they palTed Wintertonnefs a few leagues, fome of them, whofe mailers were more experienced feamen, or v/ho v/ere not fo far out as the reft, tacked and put back in lime, and got fafe into the Roads ; but the reft pufh- . ing on, in hopes to keep out to fea and weather it, were by the violence of the ftorm driven back, when they were too far embayed to weather Wintertonnefs, and fo were forced to run Weft, all fnifting for them- felves as well as they could : fome ran away for Lynn- Deeps, but few of them (the night being dark) could find their v/ay thither ; fome, but very few, rid it out at a diftance ; the reft being above 140 fail, were all driven on fhore and daftied to pieces, and very few of the people on board were faved. At the very fame unhappy jundure, a fleet of loaded ihips coming from the North and juft crofting the Tame bay, were forcibly driven into it, not able to weather the Nefs, and were involved in the fame ruin that the light fleet v/as ; alfo fome coafting vef- fels laden with corn from Lynn and Wells, and bound for Holland, were, with the fame unhappy luck, juft come out to begin their voyage, and fome of them lay at anchor : thefe alfo met with the fame misfortune ; fo that in the v/hole above 200 fail of fhipS and above 1000 people, were loft in the difafter of that one miferable night. A misfortune fomewhat fimilar, happened in 1790. In 4 TH? NORFOLK TOUR. 31 In this town v/as born Arthur Wilfon, Efq. who Vyrote the life and reign of King James I. [printed 1^5 J ] with fo much freedom, that inftead of a hif- tory, he is faid to have written a pafquinade. He was an attendant for many years upon Robert P'Evereux, Earl of Eflex, and afterwards fleward to Robert Earl of Warwick, who are much favoured in his hiftory, now ^Imofl forgotten* died at Fel- ftead In EfTex, 1652. Dr. Thomas Soame was born in Yarmouth : was the fon of a fiflierman, but defcended of ^n eriii- nent family of that name ; his coufm, John Sa^me, being a man of fo great an eflaie, that in 164S ii,^ paid a compofition of 1430L for it^ and was theii ^welling at Burnham, in this cpynty. After paiT^ng through his fchool education, lie was bred up in acaden>ip learning in Peter^houfe, eambridge^ where his uncle, j^obert Soame, was Maimer, and being admitted into holy orders, became Miniller of Staines, in Middle- fex, an4 Pre^e^dary ofWJndfor, He was, in the linies of rebellion, a §/m loyalift, and fo much com* P^ffionated his M^]eily's want in his war with the f axlianient, $h^t ^le v/as not mindful of his own 1 for 1^^ feiit all fee had to the King ; fo that when the Rebels C^jHi^ to plunder bi;^, they foj^nd nothing to take but himfelf ; which they accordingly did, and imprifoned him firil in Ely-*houfe, and then In Newgate and in t^g fleet. He dU^ ^s4 Jpsg h^igm ^PimmP^ A 32 THE NORFOLK TOUR. A Mrs. Cromwel lived many years in this town^ and died here at an advanced age, about the year 1750, unmarried: — She boafted of being lineally defcended from Oliver Cromwel, whom Ihe is faid not lefs to have refembled, in the hard forbidding, and Ihrewd call of her features, than in that dar- ing and refolute promptnefs of fpirit which fubdues the greateft difficulties. She condudled the Salt-v/orks, as might be expeded from fuch a charader, with vigor and proportionate fuccefs. Henry Crom- wel, no relation to Oliver, being High Steward of this place, in 1659, it is very probable ihe was defcended from him, but fuch innocent vanity, if vanity it be, is very excufable, and it may be doubt- ed which of the two Gentlemen it was the greater honor to claim affinity to — an honell High Steward of Yarmouth, or a fuccefsful Ufurper of the govern- ment of England— and the terror of all furrounding nations, - In the reign of King Charles IL Sir Robert Pafton^ of Pailon, in this county, was from this place created Vifcount, and afterwards Earl of Yarmouth | this title becoming extind, Amelia Sophia de Walmoden, who came into England in 1739, was advanced to^ the dig- nity of Baronefs and Countefs of Yarmouth, by King George II. During the civil war in the reign of King Charles I. Yarrhouth, as well as the whole county of Norfolk, was in the poiTeffion of the parliament. Oliver Crom- wel died September 3, 1658, and at an afifembly of ' the Corporation of this Borough in November follovv- THE NORFOLK TOUR» 35 ing, a committee was ordered to draw up an ad- drefs to Richard Cromwel, who it was expeded would fucceed to the protedorfliip of the kingdom. In this addrefs Oliver was called the Good^^ and the Great man^^^ it lamented that The Captain of the Lord*s Hoft ^as fallen in IJrael^'^'^ and the oppref- fed loyaliUs were fligmatized by the names of Sons of Belialy*^ and children of darknefs who had en- deavored to cut off this Captain of the hordes HofJ^ before his time, that he might not go down to his grave in peace. But this fulfome fanatical cant, and the flattering expeflations entertained by thofe who drew up the addrefs, were but of ftiort duration^ for upon the reiloration in 1660, the town (having no doubt chofen another committee) thought proper to fend a congratulatory addrefs to Charles II. to return the Fee- farm purchafed of the parliament, with the arrears due ; and further to ingratiate themfelves with the King, they prefented him with 500L as a mark of their loyalty. And on the 3d of January following it was ordered that the name of Henry Crom.wel, as High Steward of Yarmouth, fhould be defaced and erafed out of the Records of the town 1 that the addrefs to Richard Cromwel, the late pretended ProteSlor, be utterly difclaimed, obliterated and made void, and the ordinance made for the prefenting thereof, be de- faced to all intents and purpofes. By thefe means the addrefTers to Richard Cromwel, feem to have pur- chafed the favors of Charles II. for in 1663 he granted the Corporation a new Charter^ with more extenjive privilege? than formerly. An 34 THE NORFOLK TQUR. An Account of the Plants growing on the Beach at Yarmouth. THE Stu(^y of Botany offers no fpeculation mor^ Curioiis than the attachment of plants , and the ^vegetahh jQciedes, as they may be called, formed by the mean§ of this connedtioa. The fea-coaft of Yarmouth, foir about two mile? each way, is nearly ^ level common, elevated between two and three yards above high»water mark. From the verdant edge of this common to the fea is a gen- tle ilope, compofed of a deep fine fand, intermixe(|[ with great quant' ties of loofe pebbles called jkingls'> As the tides are here uncomrnQnly low, the highefl net rifing fix feet, the diftaHce from high to low water- mark is but a few yards. From high water tp tji^ turf of the common is fomewhat furlher ; ai^d it is this apparently defart flip of ground to which the prefent botanical obfervations ar^e confined. The lieaph t9 the Southward of the tqwa is princi;pally om field, fe€ing the moft regular formed. Bun I AS Cakile, Bea Rocket ^ 'm many places approaches nearefl to the water, ilriking its fibrous roots into the I00& fand, and harbouring betweei^ the Hones. Its purplifti flowers, r^fembling thofe of the fmall kind of ftock^ enliven the bare fpot on which it grows. Sal SOLA Kali, Prickly Gfaffworti is here but fparingly found, accompanying the former. It grows more THE NORFOLK TOUR. 35 more plentifully on the banks of the river Yare, near its mouth. Arundo Arenaria, ^ea Reed-Grafs ox Marrum^ grows fomewhat higher, in fcattered tufts, forming little hillocks of fand. It is this property of binding the fand by its deep matted roots, which renders it fo valuable on the coaJds of England and Holland, which are protected from the ocean by ranges of fand- hills. At Caifler, two miles North of Yarmouth, begins a line of thefe hills, of confiderable height, on which this grafs grows abundantly. A REN ARIA Peploides, Sca Chick-^eedy remark- able for the depth and length to which it runs its roots, is found firll fparingly, but afterwards in fuch plenty, that its broad llifF leaves make their chief ver- dure of the fandy beach near its jundlion with the turf of the common. Eryngium Maritimum, Eryngo, or Sea Holly. This Angular and beautiful plant grows in an ir- regular fcattered manner on the beach, and alfo flrays higher on the common, where it is moft naked and fandy. Car EX Arenaria, Sea^ Carex. This where it begins forms a regular line at an equal diflance from the fea, firft thinly covering the fand, but growing thicker and thicker as one proceeds higher. Its hori- zontal creeping roots, and frequent flioots, bind the fand in the manner of the Reed-grafs. Convolvulus Sold an ell a. Sea Bindiveed ot Scotti/h Scurvy-^ra/sy grows moft plentifully at the edge 3^ TMS N0^R'O.LK- Tarn* edge of the jun^on of the bQacIiiwii;h the common, or^ upon the bareft fpots of the latter, laying It^Sr large ^nd.beatjtlfiil flowei s upon, the naked fapjd . It, is, really fiirprifeg to fee; fo ii^e a flower gj;owing a|?!i^|i(3ant})^ iTpori f6^ e;^.poAjd atjrici barren a foiL OnoN'IS re-pens, Cre£p0igr Refthamw* This^ grows thinly on the^ beach ^ but copi©ully OH'the fajidy part? of the common, ruj^niii^gc its. Ikongr roots very far into the I^oofe ftjih Os\ I; I ^j- M V E R u M , Ladies Bid-Jlranv» Thi& ap- pears thin and fcattered about the jandlioi of the beach with th^GoiiiTBon, but afterwards becon>e5 fo pleiiiMful as to form the chi^f covering of th^ faadiefl lido of t-he common, fcenting thf aii^ vvkh ftroag perftiti^ when it Sower. Thefe are plants which may be confidere^J as pro- perly belonging to the fandy fiope of land, from high- water mark to |h© level of the verdant common, feere called the Benes. Sorne others occafionally ftray^ into It, among which have been found the Mypoclparis na affures us, that in the months of February, March, April and May, Herrings on the coails of Yir ginia, are caught 18, 20 and even 24 inches long. The Dutch Sx their entering on the Herring Fiffiery upon their own coafts to A. D. 1 163. In the old Chro- nicle of John Francis le Petit, there is a very diHindt: account of this matter. It is there faid, that the in- habitants of Ziriczee, in the Ifle of Zealand, were the firfl who barrelled Herring, and that afterwards the people of Biervliet found the method of preferving them more efFedually, by taking fome fmall bones out of their heads, which operation they call Kakeriy i. e, gilling, or jawing the Herring. E 2 ^ William 42 THE NORFOLK TOUR. William Beackels John, a Swede, who died in 1397 has been fuppofed to have invented the art of pick- ling herrings. But profefTor Springe! has Ihewn that herrings were caught at Gernem^ve, i. e. Yarmouth, fo early as the year 1283 ; nay, in Leland's Colled, vol. 3. p. 173, we meet with a proof, that pickled her- rings were fold in i£73 ; and there are extant German Records which fpeak of them in 1236. Nafhe, a cotemporary writer with, and an imitator of the more celebrated Tom Coriatof peregrinating me- mory, in enumerating the excellencies of Herrings fays, a red herring is wholeibme in a frolly morning ; it is moil precious fifh merchandife, becaufe it can be carried through all Europe ; no where are they fo well cured as at Yarmouth. The poorer fort make it three parts of their fuflenance. It is every man's money from the King to the Peafant. The fiihery is a great nurfery for feamen. The round or cob dried and beaten to pov/der is a cure for the Hone. Rub a quart pot or any meafure round about the mouth with a red herring, the beer fhall never foam or froth in it. A herring drav^^n on the ground, will lead hounds a falfe fcent. A broiled herring is good for the rheumatifm. The fitliery brings more (hips to Yarmouth than af- fembled at Troy to fetch back Flelen. He adds. Wife men of Greece, in the mean while to fvvagger fo about a V/ el At the end of what he calls his play in Praife of Red Herrings, he boails of being the firll author who had wrote in the praife of fifti or fifhermen. Of the latter he v/ittily and farcaftically fays, For your feeing wonders in the deep, you may be the fons THE NORFOLK TOUR, 43 fons and heirs of the Prophet Jonas ;— you are all " Cavaliers and Gentlemen, fince the King of fifties chofe yoa for h^s fubjeds ; — for your felling fmoke you may be Courtiers ; — for your keeping falling days Friar Obfervants ; and laftly,— look in what town there is the fign of the three Mariners, the " huff-capped drink in that houfe you ftiall be fure of always.'* This very fcarce Pamphlet is re-printed in the 6th vol. of the Harleian Mifcellany. CAISTER, next Yarmouth. IN the celebrated Notitia Imperii, or furvey of the Roman Empire, publiflied by Pancirollus in 1595, it appears that the commander of the Stablelian Horfe, under the * Count of the Saxon flibre in Britain, was ftationed at a place called Garianonuniy (that is the Mouth of the Garienis or Yare) but where that ancient Fortrefs was iituated, authors are not agreed. The venerable Camden places it at Burgh- Caftle, in Suffolk, and fays that Yarmouth rofe out of its ruins, but * The Count of tlie Saxon ihore, had in all under his command 2^200 foot and 200 horfe, ftationed at difierent places on the coafts of Norfolk, Suffolk, Eflex and Kent. The Roman troops in Brit- tain confided of 5 legions, which with their auxiliaries, amounted to about 14,000 horfe. and 72,000 foot 5 thefe were diftributed into near 150 fortrenes.—* This great military eft&bHfliment feems to in- dicate, either that the Romans efteemed England to be a very valua- ble part of their unweildy Empire, or the natives did not patiently bear the Roman yoke. 44 THE NORFOLK TOUR, but Sir Henry Spelman contends for its having been at CaiHer. Where Camden and Spelman differ in opinion on a topographical fubjed, who lhall de- cide ? — There can be no doubt of the Romans having occupied both Nations, though very probably at dif- ferent times, as each haven became more or lefs navi- gable. Thofe who contend for the greater antiquity of Burgh- Caftle remark, that parts of anchors and other pieces of iron, which could have been in ufe for maritime purpofes only, have at various times been found in the marfhes adjoining, and even in the walls of the Caflle, but furely fuch evidences by no means warrant this conclufion, as they tend but to ftrengthen an opinion generally admitted, that an arm of thefea which foimerly overflowed the marflies between Yar- mouth and Norwich, mull nearly have reached Burgk- Caftle : and as the coins frequently dug up at Caillerj, in a place called the Eail-field Bloody furlong, are ac- knowledged to be of more ancient date, than thofe found at Burgh- Caftle, it may be inferred, fo far as the evidence of coins are admitted, that Caifler was really the ancient Gariancnuin. It is the generally received opinion, that the Yare formerly had two channels by which it entered the Britifli ocean, one to the North, at Cockle- water or Grubb's -haven by Caiiler, the other to the South near Gorlefton. The channel by Caifler was in the infancy of Yarmouth, eiteemed to be the bell harbour, and the inhabitants accordingly built the town further to the North than it now Hands ; but the North-eaft winds prevailing upon this part of the coail, formed a fand-bank, which choak- THE NORFOLK TOUR. 45 ing up the channel at Caider, reached along the fhorc nearly to Gorlefton, and in procefs of time becoming firm land, the inhabitants deferted the ruined channel at Caifter, and removed to the Southern one near Gorlefton, at which time it is moft probable that Burgh-Caflle was built and became the ne^ Gariano^ Tium of the Romans. Thefe two ftations were extreme- ly well fituated on each fide of the river, upon fine eminences in the fight of each other, and admirably well calculated to dtfend the ftiore againll the preda- tory defcents of the Saxons, who upon the decline of the Roman Empire, became very bold and dexterous pi- rates, paying frequent and moft unwelcome vifits to the inhabitants of Norfolk, Suffolk, Eflex and Kent ; the the coafts of which were called the Saxon-fhore, from being oppofite to the people of Germany called Saxons. Caifter was the ancient feat of the family of Faftolff, Captain Grofe took a view of this place in 1771 and obferves, that from the materials, which are Englifli brick, it cannot be older than the beginning of the reign of Henry VI. [1449] when that manor belonged to Sir John FaftolfF a General and Knight of the Gar- ter. The Manor of Caifter had been in the family ever fmce the 9th of Edward II. [1305] and it is more than probable, fome houfe or caftle might then be ftanding. Tanner mentions one as early as Ed- ward I. [1274]. William de Botoner, alias de Worcefter, in his Iti- nerary relates, that this caftle was befieged twice in the 46 THE NORFOLK TOUR. the reign of Edward IV. (between 1469 and 14^3) the firll time (1469) by Thomas Mowbray, Duke of Norfolk, and the fecond by Lord Scales. In the ae- cdunt of tli^fe tranfadlions, the found ition of the pre- fent Caftle is mentioned as being dire£led by the laft will of Sir John FallolfF. Daring the time of thefe iieges, it belonged io John Pailon, Efq. who was one of the exeentors by the will of Sir John FaflolfF. In the colledion of letters publifhed by Sir John Fenn, of tranfadions during this dark period of Eng- lifh Hiftory, he has preferved one dated Sept. 1469, relating to the firfi: of thefe fleges ; it is from John PaHon, Efq. to Sir John Pafton, Knight, and is thus expreiTed, ^' We were fore lack of viduals (and) gunpowder, men's hearts lack of furety of ref« cue, (were) driven thereto to take appoint- ment!'* The caftellated manlion of Caifler, tradition fays was finiihed by Sir John Fallolff with a part of the money which he received for the ranfom of John II. Duke of Aien9on, whom he took prifoner at the battle of *Verneuil, in 1 429, called the battle of Herrings, becaufe, it being the time of Lent, great part of the convoy which Sir John was conducing to the army, then beiieging Orleans, conMed of Herrings. In this battle Sir John with about 2,500 Englifh, de- feated * The French forces at this battle have been variouHy rcpre- pTefeiited by the Freilch writer?, fome calfifig therii 4,000, and others betwecfl ftint and tm tboolanda THE NORFOLK TOUR. 47 feated near ten thoufand French and Scots, of whom 2,500 were killed, and many perfons of diftinaion, with others, taken prifoners, without the lofs of one Englifhman of eminence. Tradition fays, that after the battle the Englifh marched twice round the walls of Orleans, infultingly crying, frejh herrings to felly which provoked the French to make two defperate fallies, and proving foecefsful, they were in{pir- ed with fuch a new fpirit of confidence and refo- lution, as afterwards turned the fortune of war in their favor. But the enthufiafm and military exploits^ of the famous Joan of Arc, who at this time made her appearance, had undoubtedly a more powerful efFedl upon the lively minds of Frenchmen, than any filly taunt that could be ufed by the Englilh fol- diery. The ruins of Caifter Ihew it to have been both ca- pacious and ftrong. It was moated round, but the moat is now filled up, except on the Weft, which was the grand entrance. The houfe formed a redlangled pa- rallelogram, the South and North fides longer than the Eaft and Weft, the ftables in the front, the beft rooms on the right hand of the fquare, under which was a noble vault, and over it probably the great, hall. The embattled brick tower at the North Weft corner is ftanding above 100 feet high, and on an arch over a bow window in the infide of the ruins, was the * Arms of Sir J. FaftolfF furrounded with the garter, neatly * They were taken down a few years ago, and depofitcd in the Library of his Excellency the late Earl of Buckipghamfhire, at Blick- ling. 4i THE KORFOLK TOUR. neatly carved in flone. To the tower adjoins a dining parlour 59 feet long and 28 broad. The great fire- place of which is Hill to be feen. At prefent only the Weft and North walls are remaining, together with the tower. The South and Eaft lides are nearly levelled with the ground. Eaft from the Caftle ftood the * College, forming three fides of a iquare larger than the former, with two round towers ; the whole now converted into barns and ftables. The Caftle moat is faid to have commu- nicated with a creek which was navigable to the ocean ; and, adjoining to the farm-houfe is a fmall building, called the barge-houfe, now ufed as a ftable, in which is {hewn the crown of a large arch of about 8 feet diameter, which muft have been capable of re- ceiving a boat of confiderable burden. Fastolff (John) Knight and Knight Banneret, a valiant and re nownerd General, Governor and Noble- man in France, during our conquefts in that kingdom|, under King Henry IV. V. and VI. of England, and Knight Companion of the moft noble order of the Garter, was the fon of John FaftolfF Efq. and Mary the daughter of Nicholas Park, Efq. his wife. He was defcended of an ancient and famous Englifh fa- mily in the county of Norfolk ; which had Houriftied there, and in other parts of the kingdom, in very honourable diftin£lion before the conqueft : and froni a train of iliuftrious anceftors, many of them dignified with *^ This College is faid have been founded by John Pafton,. kn^ Efq. in 1464. THE NORFOLK TOUR. 49 with the honour of knighthood, invefted with very eminent employments, and poffeffed of extenfive pa« trimopies. Sir John the iuhjed of this account was born in the year 1377, either at Caifler, or in Yar- mouth, at the former of which he died Nov. 6, 1459^ aged 82, and was buried at the Abbey church of St, Bennet in the Holme. The firft honourable public e;mployment in which Sir John feems to have been engaged, was his attend- ance upon Thomas of Lancafter, afterwards Duke of Clarence, and fecond fon of King Henry IV. when he was Lord Lieutenant of Ireland, in 1401, at which time Sir John\Tas in the 25 th year of his age. In 1408 he was married in Ireland to a rich young widow of quality, named Melicent, Lady Caftlecomb, daughter of Robert Lord Tibitot, and relid of Sir Stephen Scrope, Knight. This connexion we may reafonably believe engaged his fettlement in that kingdom, or upon his eftate in Norfolk, till his appointment to a command of fome forces, or to a place of truil under the Regency in France, where he continued, accord- ing to the teltimony of Caxton, the firft Englifh Printer, ' to fignalize his military abilities for forty years,' great part of the time under John Plantagenet, the Great Duke of Bedford, and Regent in France, dur- ing which he was made Knight Banneret in the field of battle. Baron of France, Knight of the Garter in England, Steward or Marftiall of the Regent's houfe- hold, the King's Lieutenant of Normandy for one year, and after Governor of Anjou and Maine, for many years. Captain of the- city of Mans, and the towns JO THE NORFOLK TOUR. towns of Alen9on, May n, Frefney, in Vicont, for 14 years, iikewife Caen, Verneuil and Harfleur, fome years, the laft of which places he valiantly and fuc- cefsfully defended when befieged by the French : And when finally fettled at home, he was conftantly exer- cifed in adls of hofpitality, munificence and cha- rity, a founder of religious buildings and other late- ly edifices, a generous patron of worthy and learned men, and a public benefa<5lor to the pious and the poor. Mr. Hume obferves, that there is no part of the Englilh HiHory lince the Conqueft fo obfcure, fo un- certain, fo little authentic, or confident, as that of the wars between the two Rofes, and it is remarkable that this profound darknefs falls upon us juft on the eve of the refloration of Letters, and when the art of print- ing was already known in Europe (but not in Eng- land), It was in thefe turbulent and unenlightened times that Sir John Faftolif lived, and it cannot be a matter of much furprife, that his real charader has .been misunderftood or mifreprefented, when we know fo little of our general hiHory. At the time when Prince Henry is faid to have com- mited many excefles unbecoming his high ftation, our hero was honourably employed in France. In the play. Sir John FalllafF is a man of mean, necefiitous, fhifting circumftances throughout, FallolfF in record was richly polfelTed of lands and eftates in feveral places, from his youth, FalflafF in the poet's account was near three-fcore before the battle of Shrew/bury, FaflolfF THE NORFOLK TOUR. 51 FaftolfF In hiftory, not abo\ie twenty-fix. The thea^ trical FalHafF ends his life foon after his princely com>. panion afcends the throne, and before he goes into France ; but the hiftorical FaMfF demo ^i^ratively furvived King Henry V. no lefs than thiity-feven years. Drayton in his Foly-Olbion, on comparing Sir John FaftoliF with Sir Philip Hall, fays Strong FallolfF with this man compare we may By Sals'bury who, oft being feriouily employ'd. In many a brave attempt the gen'ral fee annoy'd i With excellent fuccefs in Maine, and Anjou fought. And many a Bulwark there into our keeping brouglit j And chofen to go forth with Vaudemont in war, Moft refolutely took proud *Renate Duke of Barre, In one of Mr. Afnmole's choice old volumes of MS S. there is a concife charader of our hero, wrlttet^ in the reign of King Henry VII. by Sir Thoma$ Wriothelley, then King of Arms, wherein he is called, ^ a rich knight and a grete bilder ; having bilded ^ Caller-haU in Norfdk, a royal palace in South work, * and another in YernK>uth 5 and a fpeciall goode ^ maifter to. the officers of armes.* There is not a chara£ter throughout Shakfpeare's Plays that has afforded fo mucii fa;tisfa(^ion and de- light, * Renate, after the fiege. of Orleans b-raii^ht {uccwrs tQ Ch«\i-]es VII. the young King of France. F S2 THE NORFOLK TOUR. light, both on the Hage and in the clofet, as that of Sir John Faljiiif, nor one that has occafioned fb much controverfy to identify the real perfon of this dra- matic hero: Whether it was originally drawn for ^ir John Oldcaftle, Lord Cobham, (the firfl Mar- tyr to the Protellant caufe in England) or not, feems foreign to the prefent inquiry, which attempts only to prove, from the beft authorities extant, that in no. one circumftance do the poetical chara(^er of FalllafF, as drawn by Shakfpeare, and the hiftorical character of Sir JohnFaftoltf, of Caiiler, agree, or that would lead an ignorant reader to confound them , but a little quib- ble which makes fome conformity in their names. Every one has feen upon the ftage Sir John Faljiaff exhibited in the various charaders of an old humo- rous, vapouring, cowardly, lewd, lying, drunken and necelHtous debauchee about Prince Henry's court. But hiilory informs us, from the various ^legacies which Sir John Fallolff left by his laft will, that he died immejifely rich ; to enumerate them would too much extend this article, and we (hall obferve only, that he left 4000I. in the hands of Thomas Howes, his con- fefTor, to lay out in repairs of churches and collegiate houfes, and his executors fold 3033 ounces of filver That he lived in great fplendor and magnificence, is evident from the many houfes he built and occupied— that he was iincerely pious and benevolent, may be admitted f/om his donations to religious inftitutioHs, and his attention to the poor, during his life and at his death — that he was valiant is demonftrative from * At this time raoney was feyea times its prefent valus. THE NORFOLK TOUR. 53 from the whole tenor of his military conduft for forty years, and the teftimony of the beft judge?, his co- temporaries — and that his charafler and abilities an accomplifhed Gentleman were held in high cllima- tion, need no other evidence than the certainty of his poiTeffing a great fhare of confidence and favor from three fucceeding Kings. If thefe inferences are fairly drawn from the hiftory of the life of John FaftoliF, it will no longer be believed that Shakfpeare's charader of his fat K^night, had any reference or bore any re- femblance to Sir John FaftolfF, of Norfolk. But as light ridicule frequontly flicks clofer to charadler than the moil honourable truths, it has been the fate of our Knight to be remembered for imputed follies and crimes which he never committed, and forgotten for thofe meriterious aftions whick hiilory bas truly record- edofhim. The theatrical charader of Faljlaff^ has been thus elegantly and forcibly'drawn by Dr. Johnfon. FalilafF unimitated, unimitable FalftafF, how fhall 1 defcribe thee ? thou compound of fenie and vice ; offenfe wkkh may be admired, but not efleemed ; of vice which may be defpifed, but hardly detefled : FalflafF is a cha-- radler loaded v/ith faults, and with thofe faults which naturally produce contempt. He is a thief and a glutton, a coward and a boafler, always ready to cheat the weak, and preyupoh the poor, to terrify the tim- erous, and infult the defencelefs. At once obfequious and malignant, he fatirizes in their abfence thofe whom he lives by flattering. He is familiar with the F 2 Prince THE NORFOLK TOUR. Prince only as an agent of vice, but of this familiarit}^^ he is fo proud, as not only to be fuperciiious and haughty with common men, but to think his intereft of importance to the Duke of Lancailer. JTet the man thus corrupt, thus defpicable, makes himfelf He- CefTary to the Prince that defpifes him, by the moil pleafmg of ail qualities, perpetual gaiety ; by an un- failing power of exciting laughter, which is the more freely indulged, as his wit is not of the fplendid or ambitious kind, but conMs in eafyfcapes and falliesof levity, which make rport but raife no envy. It mufi be ohferved, that he is Hained with no enormous €r fanguinary crimes, fo that his licentioufnefs is not fo oiFenfive but that it may be borne for his mirth. Of the Comedy of the Merry Wives of Windlbr, Mr. Rowe has prcferved a tradition, that it was writ- ten at the command of Queen Elizabeth, who was fo delighted with the character of Falllaif, that fhe wilhed it to be diffufed through more plays ; bat fuf- pe^lin^ that it might pall, by continued uniftirmity,.. differed the poet to diyerfify his inanner> by fliwing him an lover No tkik is harder than that of writing to the ideas pf another. Shakfpear^ knew wha.t the Queen, jf the ilory be true, feems not to hav# known, that by aiiy real paiTicn of t«ndernefs, the felfifli craft, the carelefs j#llity, and the lasy luxury of Falilaif muR have fuffered fo much abatement, that little of his former call could have remained. Falf« talF could npt love, but by ceaiing to be FalftafF. He could only tcnnierfeU love> and hi$ profefiions could be 4 THE NORFOLK TOUR. SS be prompted, not by the hope of pleafure but of mo-. ney. This Comedy is remarkable for the variety and num- ber of the perfonages, who exhibit more charadlersr ap- propriated and difcriminated, than can be found in any other play, and its general power, by which all works of genius lhall finally be tried, is fuch, that perhaps it never yet had reader or fpeftator who did not think it too foon at an end. BURGH-CASTLE IS in the county of Suffolk, at the diftance of three miks S. Well of Yarmouth, and ftands upon a hill adjoining the South bank of the *Waveney, near the jundion of that river with the Thyrn and Wen- fum. Its elevated fituation commands an extenilve view of the hundreds of Eaft and Wefc Flegg, as far as Acle on the Well ; an extent of coafl of about twelve miles from North to South, and feems to have beea admirably chofen to alarm and defend this part of the country, from the fadden invafions of the pirates of ancient times, as well as againft the warlike Iceni, who relu^antly fubmitted to the dominion of the Ro- mans, and often by force of arms attempted in vain to expel * Its ftanding wpoa the South bank of the Waveney, not the Yare, fpoils the Etymology, and thence Isads us to imagine, that it never could have been the ancient Garianonum of the Romans, though there is no doubt of its having been a Roman fortrefs, F 3 THE NORFOLK ,TOUR. expel them. It is a four-fided oblong pitched camp^ crowned with a wall inclofing an area of 4 acres, 2 roods, and, including the walls, 6 A. 2R. 20 P.. The walls, compofed of rows of brick and flint alter- mately, are nine feet in thicknefs and fourteen feet high : The Eaft iide is the moft perfed, and has four flanking towers, now in part Handing, the two neareft each end, being 55 yards from each other, and the two intermediate ones 1 10 yards afunder. The North and South iides are each 107 yards « The country from Gaifler to Burgh-caflle, is one continued plain for three miles in length ; within this fpace lies Brey don-water (Breydon is a Saxon word fignifying broad-water) and the whole level carries evident marks of having been covered by the ocean, tlie mouth of the Yare, at that time being an iEiloary, or arm of the fea. This is the traditional account, in fuppott of which, Mr. Ives publiihed a hiftory of Burgh-calHe, W'ith an ancient map of the coutitfy as it is /uppo/ed to have appeared in the yeai* #ne thouf^nd. And a manufcript copied by him^ fays, that about the time of Edward the ConfefTor [1040] tl^e fea letfeated from the fand^ at the' mouth of the iEHuary, on whibh Yarmouth fiow ftands^ and the whole level of the fens from Yarmouth to Nor- Vv^ich^ was then an arm of the fea, entering by the mouth of the Hierus« CASTOR at prefent an incpnfiderable viilag'e^ fituated about four miles South w^ll of Norwich, upon • :he little river TefTe ; according to Camden and other refpedable THE NORFOLK TOUR. 57 refpe£lable hiflonans, was formerly the ^ Venta Ice^ norum, the moft ilourifhing city, or principal llation of the Romans in the countiy of the Iceni, called af- terwards Eall Anglia. We need not wonder fays Camden, that of the three Venta in Britain, this ihould have loft its name, when it has loft its very be- ing, for now, fetting afide the broken walls, the re=^ mains of four gates and two towers, which were viiible in the year 1749, and the Roman coins, which are at this day frequently dug up, there are not any traces of its ancient magnificence left : The defcription of this place agrees ejcadlly with thofe given by Polybius, Ve- getius and others, concerning the ancient way of en- campment among the Romans ; the places alfo for the four gates, are ftill manifeftly to be feen. The Porta Pretoria looked towards the Eaft, oppofite to which (without the Porta Decumana, and clofe by the riv^er fide) there ftill remains fome ruins of a tower. The walls incloiing the camp were of flint and very large b^ck. Skinner fays in hisEtymologicon : ^' Caftor in Com. Norf, dim. Venta Icenorum : ex cujus Ruinis orta efi Nior^vich ci fixed this camp, which for its dimenfions and ftrength was named Caflrum, or The Camp, by way of eminence. It was about the year 418 after Chrift, that the Romans in general quitted Britain ; but having after- v/ards 6o THE NORFOLK TOUR. wards Tent fome fmall detachments of troops to alTift in repelling the incurfions of the Pi6ls, and the predatory invalions of the Northern pirates, they cannot be faid to have finally withdrawn themfelves till the year 446, * when, thofe who remained, and the natives joining together, became one people ; Caftor being then in a great meafure deferted, fell rapidly into de- cay, and the inhabitants fixing upon the place where Norwich now Hands, on account of its being higher ground, on a better flream, and more convenient for fifhlng, it fuddenly rofe to great maturity, out of the ruins of Caftor, then no longei^ regarded but as a place of defence, and as fuch was afterwards held by the Saxon, Eaglifh aFid Danifh Kings, till Edward the Confeflbr gave it to the Monaftery of St. Edmund's Bury, where it continued with little variation till the Conqueft, rhe CITY of NORWICH. THE rife of great towts is owing to fuch a variety of caufes, that it is often difficult fatisfadlorily to point out the principal one, but with refpeft to Nor- wich, there is every reafon for believing that the foun» dation of its prefent magnitude ajad opulence is in a great jneafure to be afcribed to its affording an afy- lum * In General Roy's military antiquities, it is faid, that the final departure of the Romans from Britain was in the year 4^0^ and the arrival of the Saxons^ A, 0, 449* THE NORFOLK TOUR- 6t lum to the (a) Dutch and Flemings, who, from the bad policy of the Spanilh Court, and the cruelty of the Duke of Alva, were obliged to forfake their native country about the year 1565. Thefe unhappy people, perfecuted at home for their religious opinions, found in a foreign country, that to be peaceable citizens is the only tell of fidelity required for protedlion amongft an enlightened people, and in return they introduced the manufadure of bombazines and a variety of worfled fluffs, by which fo many families in Norwich have fince been enriched, and the population increafed, from about (b) 14,840, to 41,051. It has been faid that the city in ancient times was much more populous than it is at prefent, and that in the year 1348, more than fifty-feven thoufand per- fons died here of the Plague ; but, as the walls of Norwich then prefcribed its extent, there feems to be fufficient reafon for believing this accouut to be much exaggerated ; perhaps it might be true if applied to the city and county of Norfolk. There having been 58 or 60 churches in Norwich, and now only 35, has al- fo been urged as a proof of its former great popula- tion, (a) The number of thefe People at firft permitted to fettle here was 330, but in a very fhort time they amounted to 3925. (b) In 1377 the inhabitants of feveral great towns in England were eriamerated, when Norwich was found to contain 5,300 people. The mufter-roll delivered to government, of men capable of bearing arms in Norwich in 1575, contains 2,120 names. The ufual calculation is, that one perfon in every fix, or at leaft in every feven, in any king- dom or diftri£l, is fo qualified : whence we are inclined to believe that Norwich at that time did not contain above 14,840 people; THE NORFOLK TOUR. tion, but the decay pf churches does not prove the people of former times to have been more numerous, but to have been more devout, or that the inhabitants have changed the modes of their religious worfhip, Mr. Hearne fays, he believes the city of Norwich was either repaired after fome devailation, or elfe feme additions were made to it by Alfred the Great, (i. e. be- tween the years 872 and 899) for, on one of his coins., publifned by Sir Andrew Fountaine, there is a Mono- gram 5 which Mr. Ed. Thevaites, in his notes upon thefe coins, has ingenioully guelTed to be Ci^itas North'ui- ■€um. — The infcription is ALFRED RE : This read- ing is certainly inggmous^ but they who have an op- parlEnity of examining the plate of the coin will find it v>mj di^eult to make out, Ci^vitas Northvicmn, in the Monogram^ An old vulgar diftkh, handed down to us by tra- ditioD, fays, Cailor was a. City when Norwich was none. And Norwich was built with Caflor ftone, PASSING by thofe accounts of the origin of this city, which feem calculated rather to amufe the cre- dalous than fatisfy candid and rational inveftigation, wt fiiall quote Camden's opinion on this fubjecl, who obferves, that, fo far is the city of Norwich from having been built either by C^far, or Guit.eline the Briton, as fome fabulous, authors aflert, that the word Norwich is not any where to be found be- f<)re the Daniih wars.'* The XHE NORFOLK TOUR. *6i The city was burnt and dellroyed in 1004 by * Swain, the Dane, who returned a fecond time in lorr*, when many of his followers fettled here, and it increafed fo rapidly, that from the Domefday-book of Edward the ConfeHbr, it appears to have contained £,320 BurgefTes, and // is faid, 25 parochial churches. It continued to increafe till 1075, when Ralph de Waiet, Earl of Norfolk, rebelling againil William the Conqueror, the caftle was befieged and taken, and great part of the city dellroyed ; but foon re- covering from thefe misfortunes, it again began to flourifli, and at the time of making the Domef- day-book of the Conqueror in 1086, only eighty- two years after its having been dellroyed by the Danes, it contained 738 houfes, which at the rate of five perfons to a family, makes 3,690 iuhabitaiits» Upon the Conqueror's death, Roger Bigod held the caftle for Robert Curthofe, Duke of Normandy, elder brother of Rufus ; walling the city and county, and plundering all thofe who refufed to join with him. This difpute was compromifed, and Roger Eigod re- mained in polTelKon of the caftle, and held it peace- ably * Swain, v;ith his whole fieet, is faid to have failed quite up to the caftle, the marfhes between it and the ground on which Y ar- inoiith now ftands, being then covered with water, forming a large arm of the fea,. "When the fmall fize tf the Ihips of tbofe days is confidered, there is nothing improbable in this relation 5 whicix feems to acquire confiderable Itren^th by its bei\ig vvcil known, that in the reign of Canute, Norwich was a Fifhing Tcwii, anH It was not likely that Fifhermen fhouJd fix: upon a place for their refi i^nce, v/hich was thirty miles diflant from the, ocean. *62 THE NORFOLK TOUR. ably during this King's reign. The city being once more freed from the evils attending the fadious con- tentions of the Nobles, Herbert de Lofmga, ;hen Bifhop of Thetford, removed the See hither, after having made many uufuccefsful attem.pts to fix it at the rich abbey at Bury. This event took place April 9, 1094, from which time the city has been daily in- creafmg in wealth, trade, and buildings : And to en- courage its growing greatnefs. King Henry I. granted to the citizens the fame liberties and privileges as the citizens of London enjoyed. In the reign of King Stephen (1172) it was made a corporation, to be governed by bailiffs, in the room of a port-reeve, under which government it had been from the Saxon time; and in the year 1403, the citizens obtained a charter from King Henry IV. for the elediion of a Mayor, and tv^o Sheriffs yearly, inilead of the bailiffs. I'he cities appear by Domefday-book, to have been at the Conqueil, little better than the midling market towns of the prefent time ; York itfelf, though it was always the fecond, at leall: the third city in England, and the capita] of a great province, which was never thoroughly united with the refl, contained then but 3, 4^8 families. Norwich 738, Exeter 3 1 5, Ipfwich 538, Northampton 60, Hertford 146, Canterbury 262, Bath 64, Southampton 84, Warwick 113. Thefe were amongil the moll confiderable in England, and hence it appears, that Norwich was next to York In fize. ' The THE NORFOLK TOUR. 6j The firft predatory incurfions of the Danes into Sritain were in 789, but their invalion of the kingdom of the Eafl: Angles, of which Norfolk was a part, did not take place till 886 ; when the natives being more anxious for their prefent intereft than for the common fafety, entered into a feparate treaty with the enemy ; and furniflied them with horfes, which enabled them to make an irruption by land into the kingdom of Northumberland, where they feized the city of York, Hume's Hift. vol. i. From this time the Danes were firmly eftabliftied in Norfolk, particularly the Eaftern part of it, atld very probably built a Caftle, or repaired one, which Jiad been built by the Saxons, when the Roman ftation ^t Caftor was deferted foon after the year 446. Seve- xal reafons are aligned for the Danilh invafion,— to revenge themfelves for fome pretended injuries, or national affronts ; though the true motive probably was ; England, divided againft itfelf ; fituated in a 4iappier climate ; much richer and in every refpedl preferable to their own dreary and inhofpitable country, prefented an inviting profped to the lawlefs defires of uncivilized plunderers — When a rich nation lofes the power of protedling itfelf againft both inter- nal and external enemies, it will not be long before the former promote its downfall by inteftine divifions, and the latter profit by their ingratitude. — It is idle to exped, and moft dangerous to depend upon the honour and the Jaw of nations, without the means of in- forcing the obfervance of them. G Were 64 THE NORFOLK TOUR. Were we not affured that the ancient Danes were more numerous upon the fea than on land, we could not read the hiflory of the eighth, ninth and tenth centuries without obferving with furprife, the fea covered with their numerous fleets, (fometimes of 700 fail) and from one end of Europe to the other, the coafts of thofe countries, now the moll powerful, a prey to their depredations. During two hundred years they almoU inceffantly ravaged England, and at length fubdued it. Alfred the Great, about the year 900 having expelled or fubjugated the Danes who had invaded England, with fome of the more peaceable of them colonized Norfolk, then forming a part of Eall Anglia, which though their countrymen had made defert, they by peace and indul^ry fcon reilored to a flourifhing condition. The ancient inhabitants had been extirpated, and this Danilh colony may be look- ed up to as the original people, or parent flock, of the prelent race of Norfolk-men. At the time when the Danes deiblated England, the profeffion of piracy was fo far from appearing dilhonourable to them, that it was in their eyes the certain, and perhaps the only road, to honours and fortune; for it was wifely con- trived, that the word honour, to which fo many dif- ferent ideas are annexed, was among them folely con- fined to a difregard of danger ; and to be the moil renowned Pirate of the North was fynonymous with being the greateft man in Europe. The Saxons gave the name to the Callle of Norwicli by which the city has ever iince been called : They wrote it Nordwic^ or^ their d being pronounced like our Northwic^ THE NORFOLK TOUR. 65 Northwic, fignifying a Northern Caflle, as the Caftle of Norwich is with refped to the Roman ftation at Caftor, After all the refearches of the moft eminent Antiquarians on this iubjecl, it muft be acknowledged the evidence amounts to this only, that as the city derives its name from the Caille, it certainly mull: be of lefs antiquity, but as the time when the Jirjl Caftle was built cannot be afcertaiaed, it is in vain to attempt fixing the age of the city. Norwich on account of its trade, wealth, beauty, extent, populoufnefs, the falubrity of the air, the goodnefs of its markets, and the induflry of its inha- bitants, is defervedly r,mked amongft the moil con» fiderable cities in Britain, Its Latitude, according to Sir Henry Spelman is 52 degrees 45 minutes, Nortk, Longitude i. 19 EaU of the royal obfervatory at Greenwich. It is pleafantly fituated on the fide of a hill, ftretching from North to South, on the banks of the river Wenfum. It is 108 miles from London by Newmarket, 1 10 by Colchefter, 1 14 by Bury St. Ed- mund'^s ; audit is fomevvhat remarkable, ^that Nor- v/ich. Bury and Lynn form an equilateral triangle, each fide meafuring 42 miles. It is alfo 43 miles from Ipfwich ; and 22 from Yarmouth by land, and 30 by water. Itiiands upon more ground than any other city in England, being rather more than one mile and a half in length, from King-llreet gate to Magdalen-gate, and one mile and a quarter broad from Bifliop-gate to St. Benedift's-gate : towards the South it gradually contrails like a cone, containing little more than King-ftreet and Ber-ftreet, both of them being very G 2 Jong 66 THE NORFOLK TOUR, long aud populous. It has thirty four churches be«^ fides the cathedral, and is encompaffed by a ditch and: the remains of a flint-llone (a) wall, which was flanked with forty towers, in the ancient method of fortifica-^ lion, and had twelve gates for entrance on all fides> except the Eaft, which is defended by the river Wen- fum, after running through the city from Eaft to Well> 2.nd over which there are five ftone bridges, Coflany* Black-friars, Fye-bridge, White-friars, and Bifliop- gate.— Such walls towers and gates as enclofed Nor- wich/ being built before the invention of (b) gun- powder, they have long ceafed to be ufeful in a defen- five view, or perhaps to be at all ufeful ; and becom- coming burdenfome to the people to keep in repair, have been fuftered to decay, eight of the gates, m the years 1792, I793 and 1794 were taken down, and two confiderable openings made in the walls, one be- tween Ber-ftreet gate and Brazen-doors, the other clofe to Chapel-field, Thefe additional avenues have un^ doubtedly their ufe. And to gentlemen difpofed ta venerate whatever is antique, let it be hinted, that however obnoxious to their feelings modern improve-^ ihents may be, nothing on earth is calculated to flan^ for ever : And that which is now modern, will like the ancients whom they have difplaced, in time them- felves become antiques^ The city is plentifully fupplied with (a) Begun in 1294 and finiihed in 13 10, (b) The 6ifcovery of gunpowder \?. generally attributed to Schwartz^ . a Monk of Cologne, but the Englifli Friar, Roger Bacon, was the. real difcoverer of it fome years before, but his humane philofophy prevsnted him from making the procefs public, THE NORFOLK TOUR. 67 with frefli water, conveyed through pipes to all parts of it, from the water works at the New-Mills, ' lirfl ereded in 3430, improved in 1695, but not brought to their prefent perfedlion before 1720. Norvvich is governed by a mayor, recorder, Rew- ard, two IherifFs, twenty- four aldermen, (of which the mayor is one) and fixty common council-men, a town- clerk, chamberlain, and fvvord -bearer, attended by of- ficers fultable to the dignity of the city : The mayor is elecled by the freemen, on the fi r ft day cf May, and fworn into his office on the guild-day, which is al- ways the Tuefday before midfummer-day, except when midfummer-day fall^ on a Wednefday, and then the guild is kept on the Tuefday fe'nnight before mid- fammer-day ; he is chofen from among the aldermen, is juftice of the quorum during his mayoralty, and af- l:erwards juftice of the peace during life, unlefs he is lawfully removed from his office of Alderman. One of the fheriiFs is chofen by a letter from the court of Aldermen, fent out about the 7 th of July, and re- turnable, if a full afTembly can be made, within four- teen days, upon paying a fine of eighty pounds to the corporation, till the loth of Auguft ; on which day, whoever holds it muft ferve the office : The other Iheriif is eledled by the freemen on the laft Tuefday in Auguft, and they are fworn into office on Michael- mas-day. No diffenter from the eftabliihed church, no attorney, or profeffional man, nor any other perfon who will take an oath of not being worth three thou- fand pounds, can be compelled to ferve. n ^ It 68 THE NORFOLK TOUR. It is faid that a perfon worth t,oooL is liable t% ferve, or to pay 50K but there is no inftance of enforc- ing fuch a law. The common council-men are ele£led by the freemen, dwelling in each of the four great wards feparately, for Conisford great ward on the Monday, Mancroft on the Tuefday, Wymer on the Wednefday, and the Ward beyond the water, (or Northern ward) on the Thurfday before Paflion week« The mayor, with the IherifFs, hold courts every Wednefday and Saturday, to hear complaints, and to do every other ad tending to the peaceable govern- ment of the city« The recorder, who mull be a barrlHer, affifts in the mayor's court as chief judge, is always juftice of the quorum, and one of the council for the city. The ileward who muft alfo be a barrifter, aflifls in the iherifFs' court as chief judge, is likewife juftice of the quorum, and the other council for the city. The twenty, four aldermen are chofen for the twelve finaller wards, two for each ward, whofe office it is to jjceep the peace in their feveral diviiions, and upon the death or refignation of any one of them, the free- men of the great ward, in which the fmaller ward is included, muft ele^l another in his room, within iive days of the death or refignation of his predeceiTor. Tlie quarterly aiTemblies are held on February 24, May 3, the day before the Guild-day, and Septem- ber 2 1. The THE NORFOLK TOUR. 69 The city is divided into four great wards, and thefe are again fub-divided into twelve finaller wards, choofing two aldermen each. I. Conisford ward, contains South-Conisford, North- Conisford, Ber-ftreet, and takes in the Hamlets of Lakenham, Trowfe - Milgate, Bracondale, and Carrowe, and eleifls twelve common council -men. II. Mancroft ward, contains St. Stephen's St, Peter of Mancroft, St. Giles, and the Hamlet of Eaton, and choofes fixteen common council -men. III. Wymer ward, contains Eaft Wymer, Middle- Wymer, Weft-Wymer, with the Hamlets of Heigh- ham and Earlham, and choofes twenty common council-men. IV. The Northern v/ard, or the long ward, contains Coflany, Colgate, Fyebridge, with the Hamlet of Pockthorpe, and choofes twelve common council- men. The arms are Gules, a Caftle tripple towered. Argent ; in bafe a Lion of England, paffant gardent* The city fends two members to parliament cho- fen by the freeholders and others being free by inhe- ritance, purchafe or fervitudc, in number about 3000, and the returning officers are the flieriiFs. The free- men mull have been admitted to their freedom twelve months before they are enabled to vote. The firfl Summons was in the 25th year of the reign of Ed- ward I. (1296) but it isnat known who were then retiuned^ By JO THE NORFOLK TOUR, By an adl obtained by the city in the year 1726, cal- led the Tonage Ad, a duty of 4c}. perron is laid upon all goods brought up the river higher than Thorpe- hall : the duties to be applied towards rebuilding and repairing the wails, bridges, gates, walles, ftaithes, and fireets. The iacreai'ed expences of fuch works having of late year? made the income very inadequate to all thefe purpofes, the gate:? have been taken down, and the walls lufFered to decay, by which the tonage revenue win better be enabled to fulHl the remain- ing objeds of it.s original aelignation^. The Markets are on Wednefdays and Satur- days ; the latter is remarkable for every good quality belonging to a market ; plenty, variety, goodnefs, cheapnefs and neatnefs. There are four fairs, on the day before Good Friday ; St. Faith's, Odober 22 ; The Tuefday after St. Michael ; And Maudlin, or St. Mary Magdalen. The liberties of the city and county of Norwich, as confirmed by Mary I. in the third year of her reign (1556) comprehends a circuit of about fourteen miles, containing nearly fix thoufand iix hundred and thirty acres. From the Guild-hall, in the Market-place, M. F... To Mile-crofs on the n-orth, is - - - \ (y Thorpe, eafl - - « i 4 Harford bridges,, fouth — - 2 2 Earlham bounds, weft - « - 2 4 By Charter, dated the 5 th year of Henry IV. (1403): the citizens of Norwich were empowered to chcofe a THE NORFOLK TOUR. 71 Mayor, together with twenty-three other Aldermen, as part of the body corporate, from which time until the prefent aera there has never been a period at which all the twenty-four then living had been eleded into the office of Chief Magiftrate. Before the year 1786, various methods had been adopted for numbering the inhabitants of Morwich, but being founded on principles of calculation, gene- rally admitted on fuch occaiions, without an exafl enumeration, they had tended rather to perplex than fatlsfy candid inquiry ; and whilfl fome contended for their being 48,000 people, others eilimated them at but 36,000 : To clear up fuch doubts, and for other and more material reafons, an exsiQ: account from houfe to houfe was taken in May 1786, and may be feen in the firft column of the Parochial Lift in the next page. It is to be obferved, that the inhabitants within the precinfl of the Cathedral, and the foldi^rs quartered in the city are not included in the p4?efeat lift, and we think it cannot be any exaggeration to eftimate them at one thoufand, making the total 41,051, which, fuppofing the account taken in i7j2to have b^en tolerably correal, we find to be an increafe of near 5000 people ; and, when it is confidered, that Norwich furniihed the army and navy with 4000 recruits during the late war, not many of whom re- turned, it muft be admitted, that if the ftrength of a nation, or the confequence of a town, is to be eftimated by the number of its inhabitants, Norwich has fome thing to boaft of, and nothing to fear^ 72 THE NORFOLK TOUR. The Parochial Li S T» St. Peter Southgate - - St. Etheidred - St, Julian - » - St. Peter Permountergate St. John Sepulchre - St. Michael at Thorn - St. John TimbcrhiU All Saints - St, Stephen - St. Peter Mancroft * » St. Giles St. Benedia St. Swithin - » - St. Margaret - » St. Lawrence St. Gregory St. John Maddermarket - St. Andrew St. Miechael at Plea. - - St. Peter Hun gate St. Simon and Jude St. George of Tombland St. Martin at Palace St. Helen St. Michael Collany St. Mary » St. Martin at Oak - ■ St. Auguftin St. George of Colgate St. Clement - St. Edmund ^t. Saviour St. Paul - St. James - Precina of the Clofe - Pockthorpe fub. Heigham fub. - HAMLET S. Lakenham - - „ Eaton Eariham - =, . Hellcfden Thorpe - ^ ^ Trow'fe, Carrowe^ Bracon dale. 1786 507 254 846 136?. II14 1442 975 825 2360 2299 117 900 643 8 i;g ioj8 II13 571 1773 502 394 443 720 109 446 1185 I2G2 2153 1899 1272 8 CO 531 Houfes . No. Soul s No. Souli in 17^ z in 1752 . in 1693. 72 425 470 57 247 243 126 595 593 327 1408 1376 158 10C4 721 ^73 1 127 86^ 2CO 890 668 106 578 425 2314 1769 420 2288 1953 ^95 961 910 127 7^5 652 141 75 J ' 4q6 223 856 66a. 176 952 668 248 1202. 772 ^35 1107 657 236 ^334 ■ 935" ' 1^3 482. 479 90 341 267 84 420 362 161 737 722 167 1083 819 80 386 33^ 244 1046 1026 236 1178 949 351 1698 1243 266 1226 850 259 1295 1254 ^23 0 i 0 593 108 520 370 162 810 701 292 I46I 9S3 166 696 4.16 129 700 J37 1 1 16 732 iu4 653 544 ■ 35 165 221 39 226 ^53 9 68 50 12 70 65 5 36 69 386 258 40,051 75I3I 36,169 28,881 THE NORFOLK TOUR, ^71 ATable of Baptifmsand Bmi- The number of people in als in Norwich for 23 years. Norwich in 1693, 1 75?., and iySo, being kno'ujn by the Pa- rochial liit& page 72, the ave- rage annual increafe between each period is eafily afcertain- ed, and if added to the fur- vey, wdll nearly give the num- ber living in any particular year. Many other obferva- tions prefent themfelves to an inquilitive mind, but we will finiili this article by inferring f»;om what has been Hated, that Norujich is not inferiour to any _ place of the fame fize in England, in point of heal- thinefs ; and w^e hope to be pardoned for adding, plea- fantnefs, plenty, and whatever elfe (if we are well difpofed) contributes toward rendering life comfortable. By this Table the annual average number of Birth;^ is 901^ 2-thirds, and Burials, 1,103, 2-thirds. Year. Baptized. Buried, I719 993 1206 20 0 14 1260 827 1026 22 059 720 23 949 1004^ 24 1075 i^S 92 I 932 20 931 27 116^ - Q 20 774 1417 29 Hz 173^ 30 S77 II36 31 0 93^ ^54 3^ 933 10 1 1 33 937 901 34 955 I 104 807 885 36 896 896 37 8S9 1405 3S 996 1078 39 949 974 40 916 1173 851 1456 20,738 25>383 A Table of Baptifms and Burials in Norwich for xi years s Buried under 10 yea rs old. 5&8 ' 459 650 461 461 425 656 518 328 573 508 Year. Baptized. Buried. 1784 1164 1180 85 1227 1 04 1 86 1185 1368 87 1:51 1063 88 1154 I : 92 89 1050 1138 90 1055 12 19 91 T096 TI '2 92 1166 973 93 IC94 1 161 94 963 1064 i2?305 12,511 *72 THE NORFOLK TOUR. In 1786 the inhabitants were found by a furvey t9 amount to 41,050, It is evident from the fecond Ta- ble, that the annual average number of burials in Nor- wich for the laft eleven years, is 1,137., 4-elevenths, or rather lefs than one thirty-fixth of its inhabitants, for 1,137 4-elevenths multiplied by 36 is 40^936. This table exhibits a very lingular fa6l : In great towns where the burials confiderably exceed the births, it has been ftated by the moll refpe^lable political arithmeticians, that th« number of deaths for any ten years being afcertained, and the annual average multi- plied by 27, or at the utmoU, by 28, theprodudl will be the number of inhabitants it contains. The deaths in Norwich being not full i -thirty- fixth of the number of inhabitants, proves, either fome error in the com- putations of thofe who have written on the fubje^l, or tliat the place is at this time lingularly favourable to longevity. Dr. Price has informed us, that half the number of children born in Norwich, die under Jlx years of age, and of 1,1 ^5 perfons dying here within the year, 664 are children bel©w the age of /^/? .* But by the third and fourth columns of this table it appears, that out of 1,137 who died annually in the laft 1 1 years, 509 only, have been under 10 years old. Within the fame period, 6,372 males, and 5,933 fe- males were born, which is in the proportion of 20 to 19. The males born have exceeded the females by 40. on an annual average^ THE NORFOLK TOUR. 73 A particular of the Inhabitants in 1786. Belonging to the city - . 29,200 Aliens - - - - 10,851 Precindl of the Cathedral, and Soldiers - 1,000 Total 41,051 It appears that the number of houfes in 1752 was 7,139, and the inhabitants 36,169, that is 5 i- fifteenth perfons to each houfe ; fince that time a great ma- ny of the fmaller houfes within the gates have been pulled down, and larger ones erefted upon their fite ; the city by this means has been rendered more healthy and beautiful, and to make up for the de- ficiency of houfes within the walls, a. great many have been built without the gates, and the whole may now be reckoned at 7,500 ; which, allowing 5 i-half people .to each houfe, makes 41,250, a number fuf- £ciently near to v/arrant the conclufion of there be- ing 7,500 houfes. It may further be obferved, that from the year 1693 in which the {iril enumeration that we know of was taken, to i-j^i, a per'oi of 59 years, the inhabi- tants of Norwich had increafed .7,288, or rather more than 123 annually. From 17^2 to 1 786, that is 34 years, the increafe was 4,882, or rather more than 143, communibus annis. Again: From 1693 to 1786, a fpace of 93 year«, the increafe was 1 2,170, or neaf 131 annually. If 74 THE NORFOLK TOUR. If we fuppofe one perfon at man's eftate to dwell in each houfe, Norwich will be able, on any emergency, tofurnifh 7,500 men able to bear arms. Finally^ admitting the ufiial computation to ht right, that, at a medium, the proportion of males to females, is as 14 to 13, Norwich has at this time 22,047 ^a^^s, and 19,004 females. The combers employ ipinners all the country round ; and the manufacturers ufe many thoufand packs of yarn fpun in other counties, even as far as Yorklhire and We&noreland, as well as confiderable quantities of Irifh yarn, which is imported from Dublin and Cork, by way of Yarmouth, From the moft accurate calculation lately made it appears:, that 12,000 looms are employed in the ma* nufadure, and allowing fix perfon s in the whole to «ach loom, there are confequently 72,000 people em- ployed I but this ts to be underllood as a calculation for the whole county, and not for Norwich alone, where it is acknowledged there are little better than •half of the people fa id to be employed. It is a common idea in Norwich, to fuppofe each loom, with its atten- dants, to work lool. per annum ; this niakes the total amount i,20o,oooL a very large fum for one manu- facture to produce in a year, and what fome intel- ligent gentlemen engaged in the manufactory have controverted, whilfl others no iefs exadt, and from their extenfive bufmefs, acknowledged to be compe- tent judges, are ftill of opinion, that this calculation comes very near the truth. The THE NORFOLK TOUR. 7^ The general amount of the Norwich manufadlare, has alfo been calculated thus : To Rotterdam by ftiippmg every fix j ^^^j weeks, goods to the value of per ann. J ! By occafional iliips to Oilend, Ham- 1 g ^^^^ burg, the Baltic, Spain and Italy, J Ten tons by broad wheel'd waggons, weekly to London at 600L per ton on [-31 2,oool. an average. I,200,0©ol. Other modes of calculation have been adopted, but the two preceding fo exadly agree in the fum total, and differ fo little^ from the reft, that it is un- neceffary to add any more on the fubjedl here. Nor, concife as we wifh to be on this occafion, ought we to omit obferving, that in the feventy years laii paft, the manufadure has increafed as from four to twelve. The flaple manufa6i:ares are crapes, *bombazeens, and camblets ; befides which they make in great abundance damafks, fattins, alopeens, &c. &c. &c. They work up the Leiceflerihire and Lincolnfhire wool chiefly, which is brought here for combing and fpin- ning, v/hilfl the Norfipll^ v/ool goes to Yorklhire for carding and cloths. And within a few y^ears it has been difcovered, that the Norfolk fteep yield * Bombazeens were invented in 1575, by the Dutch fettled here, to whom the Corporation granted an exclufive privilege for manu- fgd^uring them. H 76 THE NORFOLK TOUR. yield a wool about their necks and Hioulders^ equal to the beft from Spain ; and is in price to the reft as 20 to 7. The earnings of the manu- faflurers are various, dyers and hot-preffers about 15s, a week, combers about 12s ; fome of the befl: weavers from 14s. to a guinea, weavers in general, on an ave= rage, not more than fix fliillings, but then many wo- men can earn as much, and children by fpinning pipe- filling and tyre-drawing, earn from gd. to zs. 6d, a week each. It is a well afcertained fad, that where the induftrious man v.'ith his family earn from i o to i zs. a week, they live happy and comfortable, and feldom Vv'ant employment, whilft, they who can earn from 14s. to a guinea a week, too often fpend that in idlenefs which can be procured with fo much eafe, and work two or three days only inllead of fix. If 72,000 people as has been ftated do work to the value of i,zoo,oooL annually, it is be- tween 16 and 17L for each per fon' 3 wages. The ma- terials are faid to coft one tenth of the total ma- nufudiire, or 1 20,000! . This leaves the amount of labour i,o8o,oooL in which is included the profit of the mafter manufadurer, and if that is fiated at 24 per cent, and deducted, accordingly, it reduces the earnings to about nl. lis. a year for every perfon em- ployed. And it may be fcated as no contemptabie hCt^ that the fame number of people employed in any rna- niifac?care, will earn one million a year; for the vari- ations of earnings in any general given number of pecple is not very great^, let the maniifadnre be ^j:hat it snay. few ofU'itm work more than to live. . To THE NORFOLK TOUR. 77 To the principal Manufadure of that variety of fluffs, which for fome centuries has been carried on with great fuccefs in Norwich, both for foreign mar- kets and home confurnption, we have the fatisfadion to announce the late introdudion of the Cotton Manu- fadure to an extenllve degree, and of fhawls and a va- riety of fancy goods of the fame kind, for drefs and furniture, which in taile and elegancy furpafs any thing of the kind hitherto made in England, The Woollen Cloth Manufadure is alio carried on to a confiderable extent, and the Iron Foundry Ends em- ployment for a number of hands. In the year 173B, when Norwich did not in all pro- bability contain more than 33^00 people^ it was faid, in weahh, trade^ buildings and population^ not to be exceeded by any city or town in England, except Lon- don and Briftol ; but fuch are the rapid changes which commerce eiFe(5ls, that in fome of thefe particulars it is now far farpalTed by Liverpool, Mancheiler, Bir- mingham, Sheilield, Newcaille and Bath ; and from being the third place of importance in the kingdom, is become the eighth, as Norfolk, in magnitude, is about the eighth county* It is not hence to be infer- red that the general trade of the city has declined, for whatever vicifStude the principal manufadures for foreign markets m.ay have experienced, the home- trade, there is reafon for believing, has continued to flouriih : In evidence of Vv'hich it feems fufficient to (late, that in the year 1738 there were but thirty- feven common carriers who came weekly to the city ; H 2 in 78 THE NORFOLK TOUR. In 1794 they amount to one hundred and twenty- four; and the Hage coaches have increafed in a ftill greater proportion* Norwich adds much to the trade of Yarmouth, by the importation of coals, Irifh -yarn, wine, fifii, oil, and all other heavy goods, which come to it from thence by the river Yare, and the exportation of its manu- fadures to RufHa, Germany, Holland, Norway, Spain, Portugal, Italy, Flanders, Sec. The goods thus now exported, went formerly through the medium of the London merchants, but iince the introdudion of *fo- reign riders, the manufadurer is alfo the merchant.. During the laft and the prefent war, Norwich has fDpplied the army and navy with above fix thoufand recruits, without feeling any inconvenience from fo large a drain of its aflive irthabitants ; but the really induitrious feldom eniift. A LIST of the Pv^EMBERS of Parliament for the City of Norwich, from the year 2700 to the prefent time, with the state of the POLL at each contested ELECTION. November 19, 170 1. EDWARD Clarke Elq; 1142 Peter Thacker, Alderman 1041 Rt. Davy, Efqj Recorder 1042 Thomas Biofield Efq; 759 N, B. Mr. Sheriff Nail alone returned Mr, Clarke and Mr. Da- vy, (the other ShenfF, Mr. Ha- vers, diffenting) and, after an Hearing and Scrutiny before the Committee of Eledlions, the Houie of Commons declared them duly ele£led, 170^ * Perfons employed by the Manufaaurers to procure orders abroad. THE NORFOLK TOUR. 79 170a. Robert Davy, Efq; Thomas Blofield, Efqj Edward Claik, Efqj Charles Lord Paf^on J318 1260 953 933 1703. Gapt. Thomas Palgrave, vice Mr. Davy, deceased 2705, Waller Bacon, Efq; 1281 John Chambers, Eiqj 3267 Thomas Bloiield, Ifq; 1 136 Captain Thomas Palgrave 1074 N. B. Mr. Bacon and Mr. Chambers not being Freemen, but only Freeholders, the Sheriffs made a double Return 5 bnt on the fitting of the Parliament, the two firll- were declared duly eledled. May 19, 1708. Waller Bacon, Efqj 152 1 John Chambers, Efq; 1412 Thomas Bloiield, Efq; 1139 James Erogden, Efq; 239 Odober 18, 1710. / Robert Bene, Efq; Mayor 13 15 Rd. Eerney, Efq; Steward 1298 Waller Bacon, Efq; > 1107 S. Gardiner Efq; Recorder ic.78 Aug. or Sept. 1713* Robert Bene, Efq; 1282 Richard Berney, Efq; 1272 Waller Bacon, Efq; 1 141 Robert Brltl-fTc; Efq; 1 707 ! Feb. 2, 17x5. Waller Bacon, Efq; i66;i Robert Britiffe, Efq; 1652 Robert Bene, Efq; 1326 Richard Eerney, Efq; 3319 1722. Waller Bacon, Efq;- Robert Britiffe, Efq; Aug. 3c, 1727, Rohert Britiffe, Efq; 1626 Waller Bacon, Efq; 1 542. Miles Branthwayte, Ef; 1265 Richard Berney, E fq ; 1 1 88 May 15, T734. Horatio Walpole, Efq; 1785 Waller Bacon, Efq; ^749 Sir Edward Ward, Bart. 1621 Miles Branthwayte, Efq; J 567 Feb. 19, 1-735. Thomas Vere, Efq; vice W, Bacon, deceased 1S20 Miles Branthwayte, Efq; i486 May 6, 1 74 1. Horatio Walpole, Efq; 1 771 Thon:a3 Vere, Efq; 1 621 William Clarke, Efq; 829 1747. Rt. Hon* Koratio Walpole Rt. Hon. John Lord Hobart April 15, 1754. Rt. Hon. Horatio Vv^alpole Rt, Hon, John Lord Hobart Tune H So THE NORFOLK TOURe June 25, 1756. Edward Bacon, Efq; vice H, Walpole, created a Peer Dec. 8, 1756. Harbord Harbord, Efqj now Ld. Suffield^ vice Ld. Hobart. who Succeeded jbis Father as Earl of Buckingham/hire^ Sept. 22 Jan. 2, 1760. Idward Bacon, Efqj having ac- cepted the office of one of the CommilTjoners of Trade, re- JILBCTED. March 27, 17618 Harbord Harbord, Efqj 1729 Edward Bacon, Eiqj j ^07 Nockold Tompfon, Efqj 718 H^obert Harvey, Efqj March j8, 17680 Harbord Harbord, Efqj 282.2 Edward Bacon, Efqj 1596 Thomas Beevor, Efqj 1136 0£l. 1774. Sir Harbord Harbord, Bart, Edward Bacon, Efq, Sept. II, 1780. Sir Harbord, Harbord, Bt. 1382 Edwar4 Bacon, Efqj liog William Windham, Efqj 1069 John 'jTliuriow, Efqj; 2J03 ' April 5, 1784. Sir Harbord Harbord, Bt^ 2305 Wm. Windham, Efqj 1297 The Hon. Henry Hobart 1233 Sir Harbord Harbord, Bart» called up to the Houfe of Peers, by the title of Lord Suffield, Sept. 15 & 16, 1786. The Hon. Henry Hobart 1450 Sir Thomas Beevor Bart. 1383 Robert John Buxton, Efqj lO A feledl Committee of the Houfe of Commons, determined thi^ to be a void elediori, March March 15, I787, The Hon. Henry Hobart 1393 Sir Thomas Beevor, Bart. 13 13 June iS, 1790a The Hon, Henry Hobart 1492 William Windham, Efqi 1371 Sir Thomas Beevor, Bart. 656 Mr. Windham having vacated his feat by accepting the office of Secretary at Y/ar, an Eiec* tion took place , July 12, 1794, The Hon. Wm. Windham 1236 James Mingay, Efqj ^70 THE THE NORFOLK TOUR, 8f By a private adl of parliament palled the 3d. of Geo. II. for regulating Eledions for members of par- liament to reprefent the city of Norwich, it is ordered^ that every freeman before he polls, lhall fwear, he has been admitted a freeman of the city for twelve calendar months laftpaft, and has not before polled *^ at that eledion.*'— -The right of eledion is in the Freeholders, and fuch Freemen only of the city as are entered in the books, and do not receive alms or charity. The latter part of this claufe is fuSiciently plain, but it is evaded, or has never been enforced. THE CASTLE NEVER belonged to the city, but always was, and now is, a part of the county of Norfolk. It is fuppofed to have been frjl built by UiFa King of the EaU Angles, about the year 575. In 642 it became a royal caHIe, and one of the feats of King Anna. In the Danifh wars it often changed mailers, and after Alfred the Great had overcome that people, he is fuppofed to have trt^tijhe frji building of brick or Jlone, about the year 872, which was dellroyed by Swain the Dane 1004, and re-built by his fon Canute 1018. Roger Bigod, Earl of Norfolk, is fuppofed to have pulled this down, and to have eredled the prefent building on its lite, which was afterwards repaired and beautified by Tho- mas Brotherton, in the reign of Edward II. Before the year 1135, it was appointed a place of confine- ment for the King's prifoners. In 1189 Richard P. made 82 THE NORFOLK TOUR. made Roger, fon of Hugh Bigod, conflable of this caftle, but he having joined the rebellious Earons, was difpofTeifed of it in 1212, but reinftated on his fubmit- ting to the King, and died conilablein 1220. In 1240 the cuftody of the caflle was committed to the iherifr of the county. In 1312 Thomas de Brothertoii was appointed conflable, who adorned and crowned it with battlements as it now appears. In 1325 the general quarter feiHons of the peace for the county of Norfolk, were ordered to be held in the Shire- houfe> ereded within the limits of the callle, in the parilh of St. John Timberhill, a little on the left of the grand entrance. In 1339 it was granted to the fnerilF for a public gaol for the county, as it fiiil remains. In 13815 the cuftody of the caille or king's gaol, was granted to John de Grey for life, with the annual llipend of twenty pounds payable at the Exchequer, being the allow- ance formerly made to the conilable of the faid callle, and afterward to the fheriif of Norfolk. The Caflle, was originally defended by a wall fur- rounding it on the brow of the hill on which it ftands^ and by three ditches^ ov^er v/hich there were as many bridges: The £ril: has been immeniorially deHrojed^ the ruins of the fecond remained till the ditches were levelled in 1738 ; the third now Handing, is a hand- fome bridge of but one arch^of4i feet diameter. The outermoil ditch extended on the ¥/eil: to the edge of the vvQfent market-place, on the North it encompafTed London Lane, on the Eail it nearly reached King^s Street, and on the South to the Golden Ball Lane. The poftern or back entrapxe into the cafile;? was on the THE NORFOLK TOUR. the North-eaft, having a communication with the Earl's palace, then occupying the whole fpace be- tween the outer ditch and Tombland. The grand entrance was, as it now is, on the South. The caftle is fquare, and has within its court a Chapel dedicated to St. Nicholas, which being a royal free chapel, is exempt from all epifcopal jurifdi^lion. The chaplain is appointed by the juilices of peace for the county, with a falary of thirty pounds a year. From the fum- mit of the hill, which appears to have been raifed by art, with incredible labour, and Hands almoil in the middle of the city, there is a moll agreeable view of the furrounding buildings, interfperfed with gardens which, together with the adjacent country and river, compofe a moft delightful landfcape. From this inter- mixture of buildings with gardens, Norvfich has been compared to '\ A City in an Orchard.'* The SHIRE-HOUSE, adjoining to the caftle on the North fide, in which the Summer AfTizes and Quarte»i' Seflions are held, and other county bufinefs tranfadled, was built by Mr. Brettingham on the fite of that burnt down, on the 30th of September 1 746. It has two courts of juftice, a large grand jury cham- ber, and other convenient apartments ; particularly a large room on the Weft fide, ereded in the year 1784, having a communication with each court, by which means the Judges are reiieved from the difagreeable ap- prehenfion of fqueezing through thofe elbowing crowds which too often block up the avenues to our courts of jiiftice. The U THE NORFOLK TOUR. The Callle-hill v/as repaired and the ditch and fides of the hill planted with Ihrubs and a variety of trees, and a bank thrown up within the boundary, at a con- iiderable expence to the county in the year 1774; but there being none to guard, what was intended both for ufe and ornament, the bank foon fell into decay, and it appeared that the money had been expended to very little purpofe ; this probably fuggeiled the idea of di- viding the ditch between the bank and the bottom of the hill, into various allotments, v/hich were given to inch, perfons as chofe to accept of them, and keep up the fences. By this means the hill is kept in good re- pair, the plantations upon the fides are in a ilouri^ihing Hate, and the bottom is laid out into gardens according to the fancy of each pofTeiTor.— Stangers have ac- knovi^ledged the view from the fummit to be fuperior to any thing of the kind in Europe. As whatever regards the callle may be eileemedof ccnfequence by the antiquarian, we have taken fome pains to abridge the ingenious account given of it by Edw. King, Efq. in his obfervations on ancient caflles, publiftied in i 782, Mr. King obferves, that an high artificial mountj, with a round keep at the top covering nearly the 'whole furface, are the charadleriilic marks of Norman Caflles,, whereas fuch prior Saxon caftles as were built, like Norwich cafile, on great mounts, or ancient barrows of ilill earlier date, cover but a fmall part of the re« fpedive hills on which they were built. Th^rQ: THE NORFOLK TOUR. B5 There is indeed a tradition, of the callle*s having been built in its prefent form (a fquare) by Roger Bigod, about the time of William Rufus ; and finally compleated by Thomas de Brotherton, even fo late as the time of Edward II. but this feeras to be a miftake^ for though it may be true, of the portal^ (a) ftair- cafe, outworks, and the many great buildings for= merly inclofed within it's limits and outward walls ; yet, as the Keep or mafcer tower (the only confiderable part now remaining) in thelliieof its (b) architedure is in many refpeds fo diirerent from that of the towers eredled in the reigns of William Rufus and Henry I. and If. and the ornaments vary fo much from thofe ufed in the reign of Edward II. that Mr. King thinks this building of much greater antiquity, and com- pleatly Saxon ; for though King Canute was him- felf a Dane, he undou^btedly made ufe of many Saxon archltedls ; as the far greater number of his fiibje^ls were Saxons : nor is there any authentic account whatever of the dellruclion of the caftle built in his time, either by war or by accident ; or of its being (a) The arms of Thomas ds Brotherton are ilili to be feen in part of the wall of the ftair-caie, (b) Th^ relemhiance which the devifes, and the mode of fortiii- <:ation, both in this Saxon caftle, and vn that at Colchefter, have to thofe built even in the more improved Norman times, feem to indi- cate, that the general plan was taken from ftrudlures of ftill earlier date than either. Efpecially as the defcription given by Jofcphus of the tower of Antonia at Jerufalem, may lead us to fuij idl this mode of building to be very ancient indeed, and to have been known^ and introduced even heforc the age in which he lived. S.5 THE NORFOLK TOUR. being taken down, in order to ereft the prefent ftruc- ture : certain it is, that all it's ^ornaments are in the true Saxon Hile ; fb that it is to be confidered as one of the mofl compleat Saxon remains in England : as the bridge leading to it is unqueftionabiy one of the nobleil and mofl: perfedl Saxon arches now extant« The infide of the caftle, infl:ead of containing an open yard, as it now does, was filled up with floors of mofl: magnificent and fpacious apartments. And al- though the timbers are at prefent removed, y€t traces of the original difpofition of the whole may plainly be obferved by any perfon accuilomed to examine thefe kinds of buildings : and there are fl:ill vifible the marks of the ftrong partition-wall, running acrofs from Eafl: to Wefl:. It appears alfo, that the apartments on the ground- floor of this cafl:le were vaulted over with Rone ; for a great part of the old vault fl:ill remains, and alfo the great fl:one arches of the buttrefles, and a flone vaulting where the prefent chapel is. The ancient chapel, mentioned in old records, was, mofl: probably, on a level with the principal floor, and fl:ate apartments | and not here, where there was neither light nor a con- venient approach. At the extremity of the remaining part of the par- tition wall on the Wefl: fide, may be feen a part round- ed * That the Saxons ornamented many of their buildings very lich- ly, is manifeft from the church at Earfrifton, in Kent 5 from the well-known tower at St. Edmund's Bury ; and from two church towers at Dover and Sandwich, which are both richly adorned with pilafters, and fmall round arches, as this caflle is. THE NORFOLK TOUR. 87 ed oiF, and now cafedwlth brick, having the appear- ance of a round tower : and in the middle of this a deep, circular cavity of ftone work, like the pipe of a well, which has been filled up in the memory of per- fons now living. Here therefore was in all probabi- lity, the original well in the wall of the caflle ; as at -Kochefter and Canterbury. And it appears that there was alfo a paiTage to it from one of the galleries, through the wall, the entrance to which is now brick- ed up, but Hill vifible. As to the galleries themfelves, a part of them flill remains, and it is manifeil, that there were two ; one nearly level with the ilate apartments, and another ft ill higher up in the building. Although it appears upon record, that this callle was ufed as a prifon fo early as the reign of Henry 1. yet we mull: by no m.eans conceive from thence that it was ufed for that purpofe only -y and that the whole building was from the firft, a mere prifon, as it now is. The fad feems to have been ; that the vaults or dun- geons of this, and other caflles, fo faid to have been prifons, were appointed by royal authority , to be puhiic and privileged prifons at all tiines ; whereas the dun- geons of other caftles, were permitted to be ufed as fach only in the times of war, and it was unlavv'fiil at other times to confine any perfons therein ; whililthe upper apartments of all thefe towers, in both cafes were conflantly ufed as Hate apartments, for the rc:(i- dence of great officers and their attendants, notv/ith- Handinc^ I S8 THE NORFOLK TOUR, Handing the prifons underneath. And hence perhaps arofe the pradlice, in early times, of committing Jiate prifoners to the cuflody of different lords, at pleafure, which was continued down to the time of Henry VIII. The front of the callle is not precifely facing the Eaft, but rather inclines a little towards the Souths Its length is 92 feet 10 inches, and the length of the North and South fronts is 98 feet each : the height of the walls is about 50 feet. A vail pile of building, fomewhat refembling the ,archite6lure of the old caille, was added to it on the Eaft fide in the year 1793. The walls are built with the ilone called Scotch Granite, of a competent thick- nefs to defy efcape, and refiH the injuries of time for many centuries to come. Within the fquare are the Gaoler's houfe, and feparate places of confinement for Debtors and Felons, well adapted to thofe purpofes. THE COVNTY GAOL, over the great arch at the entrance, is fufliciently confpicuous : perhaps the in- genious Stone-mafon, delighted with viewing this ponderous building, and mailer-piece qi his art, was apprehenfive of its intention being niiftaken. But if the letters were meant to refemble thofe of the fame import in the Saxon Alphabet, he furely has not chifeled out a Jfriking likenefs ; and if the Roman charader was his model, he feems to have been almoli equally unfortunate, unlefs he hoped to impofe upon the credulity of fome future Antiquarian, by clofely imitating the uncouth formation of the latter, as ufed in THE NORFOLK TOUR. % in monumental infcriptions fourteen hundred years ago. St. ANDREW'S HALL. FORMERLY the monaflery church of the (a) Black Friars, or Benedictine Monks, is a beautiful ftrudure, about 50 yards in length and 30 wide ; confifting of a nave and two ailes, each half the breadth of the nave, covered with lead, and fupported by twelve neat and very flender pillars, and was new paved in 1646. The. (b) Mayor's guild-fealls, are always-held here ; and in diiTerent apartments, about it are the courts of Confcience, the Guardians for the poor. Sec, This noble fabric was built by Sir Thomas Erping- ham. Knight, who died in 1428, before it was com- pletely finifhed, which was efFeded by Sir Robert Er- pingham, his fon, redor of Bracon, a friar in this houfe. The windows were originally of very fine painted glafs, but now entirely demoiifhed. The St. George's company ufualiy held their feails and meet- ings at the Stone lately removed, which covered the grave of Robert Barnard, Efq. of this city, buried here in 1511. The company or fraternity took its rife in 1 385, and v/ere a fociety of brethren and fillers, a/Tociated in honour of the martyr St. George. In (a) There Is a Print of this in Stevens^s Supplement to Dugdale's Monafticon, 1718. (b) The firfc Mayor's feafi: held here was in the y«ar 1544. 1 2 THE NORFOLK TOUR. 1111704, the company prefented the mayor with the fword of ilate now ufed, in a fcabbard of crirh- fon velvet, with gilt lockets and a mourning fcab^ bard of black velvet with gilt lockets ; two new flaves with illver heads, having the city arms, viz* the caflle and lion, on pedefials of filver, to be borne before the mayor by the two marlhal-men, and two new filver badges with the city arms, likewife to be* v/orn by marfhal-men vAien in waiting : at the fame time they had a new Half made, with a filver head, jeprefenting St. George and the Dragon, the arms of the company, on a pedellal, to be borne by their beadle before the aldermen of thefaid company. In 1731* February 24, the committee appointed for that purpofe, reported at an alTembly held that day, that they had treated with the St. George's com- pany, who had agreed to deliver up their charters, books and records, into the hands of the corporation, provided they would pay their debts, amounting to 236I. 15s. id. which being agreed to, they were ac- cordingly delivered up, and are now depoiited with the city records in the Guildhall. In the centre of the Eaft end is a clocks over which is carved the effigies of Juftice, and underneath, the royal arms of England. On each fide hang the pidlures of Queen Anne, George Prince of Denmark, Robert Earl of Orford, John Lord Hobart, after-- wards Earl of Buckinghamlliire, Horatio Walpole, Efq. Lord Suffield, and two HiHorical Paintings by Mi\ W. Martin^ of Edward and Eleanora^ and the the THE NORFOLK TOUR. tlie death of Lady Jane G:ay, with feveral Aldermen and benefadtors to the city. The figure of St. George killing the Dragon, neatly carved, wa^ placed here in 1.686, by order of the St. George s Company. On the wails in the North and Sooth ailes, are placed elegant paintings at fuli length, fuperbly framed, of thofe gentlemen who have gone through the public ofHces of the Corporation with dignity and honour. Thefe paintings ferve at once as a public teilimony of the great efteeni the gentlemen repre- fented are held in, and are no contemptible proofs of the abilities offome of the molt ingenious, painters who have relided in, or occaiionally vilited the city. The fteeple was very neat, and of an hexagonal ftrm at top ; it flood between the nave and the choir, and fell down in 17 12. The yard on the South fide, was called the greenyard, where fermans were preach- ed on thofe Sundays and holidays, when there were none at the cathedral crofs : it was alfo ufed as a burial place for thofe who died of the plague in the parifh of St. Andrew; and in the grand rebellion, the artillery company exercifed here, and depofited . their arms in the low rooms adjoining to the porch. A handfome room for the city Lib'^ary was re-built in the Gothic taiie in 1774, under the diredion of the late Mr., Rawlins, The earh of Northumberlaj^d a:id Hcintmgdon, the lords Thomas llo\Vu: \ nd W:jloughby, with many ©rher nobles and knignts, being on a vifn to the dake I 3 _ of 92 THE NORFOLK TOURe of Norfolk, were entertained v/ith their retinue at the Duke's Palace in 1 561 . The guild happening at this time^ William Mingay, Efq, the BiHiop^s regifler, then mayor, invited them and their ladies to the feall | who all expreffed the greatefl fatisfa6lion at their ge- nerous reception. The mayor's fhare of the expenee and his bill of fare were as follows. The feail- makers, four in number, paying the reft. At the time this feafl was made money was fix timer' its prefent value« £■ s. d. Eight ftone of beef^ at 8d« a ftone, and a firloin by - » Two collars of brawn .Four cheefes at 4d. a cheefe Sight pints of butter A hinder quarter of veal A leg of mutton A fore quarter of veal Loin of mutton and ftioiilder of veal Breaft and coat of mutton Six pullets Four couple of rabbits Four brace of partridges Tv/o Guinea cocks Two couple of mallard Thirty-four eggs Bufliel of flower Peck of oatm.eal Sixtee'n white bread loaves Eii^hteen loaves of white wheat bread Three loaves of meHin bread o o o o o o o o o o o o o 0 o 0 © o o o 5 1 I I o o o o o I 1 2 I I o o o o © o 4 6 5 s 9 7 o 8 o 6 o 6 6 z 4 9 3 Nutmegs. THE NORFOLK TOUR. 95 Nutmegs, mace, einnamon and cloves .©03 41b. Barbary fugar - -01 Sixteen oranges - . 002 A barrel of double flrong beer « 026 A barrel of table beer - 010 A quarter of wood - -022 Two gallons of white wine and Canary o 2 o Fruit, almonds, fweet water, perfumes 004 The cook's wages - -01 2 o Total I 12 9 After dinner, Mr. John Marty n, a wealthy and honeft man of Norwich, made the following fpeech, ' Maifter Mayor of Norwich, and it pleafe your wor- ' fhip, you have feafted us like a King. God blefs * the Queen's grace. We have fed (f ) plentifully, * and now whilom I can fpeak plain Engiifh, I hear- * tily thank you maifier Mayor ; and fo do we all, ' Anfwer, boys, anfwer ; your beer is pleafant and ' potent, and will foon catch us by the caput, and * ftop our manners. And lo huzz-d for the Queen^s * Majefty's grace, and all her (2) bonny brow'u dames * of honour. Huzza for mailler Mayor, and our good * dame Mayorefs. (3) His noble Grace, there he is, ' God (1) He is fuppcfed to have been a cominon council-man, or perhaps a fhenrr. (2) This is faniiiiar enough, and looks as if the fumes of the pc*. lent beverage had began to attack the honeft orator's caput* (3) The Duke of Northumbsrkndj and hia fuite* THE NORFOLK TOUR. ^ God blefs. him and all this jolly company : To all ^ oar friends round county^.who have a penny in their / purfe, and an Englifh heart in their bodies, to keep * out Spanifh. Dons, and. Papifts with their faggots * to burn oar whifkers.— Shove it aboat, twirl yoar ^ cap-cafes, handle your jugs, and huzza for maiiler * Mayor, and his brethren their worfhips.' The honelly, freedom, loyalty and good humour of this fpeech would at any time intitle the orator to a patient hearing and an approving fmile» THE GUILDHALL. ORIGINALLY a fmall thatched building, ereded on Carrowe fee for colleding the toll of the maket. In the time of Edward III. it was called the toll-booth, and in the latter part of his reign a iingle room was added to it, of Hud-work, and thatched., from which, addition it acquired the name of the Guildhall. In this ftate k continued till the reignof Henry IV. when . that prince granting the city a charter for ele«^ing a. mayor, inftead of bailiiFs,.it was refolved to build a. new Guildhall, Frifons, &c. the old one being fo very fmall and mean as to have room only to erefl a feat, for the mayor and fix others to fit. In confequence of this refolution at an afTembly held 1407, John Danyel, Robert Erafyer, and twenty -two others, were ele£ied to compofe a fet of laws for the government of the city agreeable to the charter, and to confult proper means to raife money for building a Guildhall : This^ matter THE NORFOLK TOUR. §5 matter was purfued fo vigoroufly, that within the courfe of the year the work was got fo forward that the arches under it, defigned for prifons, were com- pleated. In 1409 the roof was raifed, and in 1412 the prifons were made ufe of, but the whole building was not perfeded till 141 3, when the windows of the council-chamber were glazed, and the che- quer table was placed in it. In 1435, the porch and tower called the treafury, the lower part of which being the prifon called little eafe, were built, and in 1440, all the city records, which till that time had lain difperfed in the monallery of the "White Friars, the chapel in the fields, &c. were col- levied together and depofited here. The flails join- ing to the hall, now covered with lead, were the ancient fcriptories, or places where the writers fat at eledlions. In 1511, the roof of the council-cham- ber at the Eali: end of the guildhall, and the treafury fell down : the council-chamber was repaired in 1 5 -'g and 1524, but the treafury tower was never rebuilt. The windows contained many ilories on painted or ilained glafs, relating to the adminiflration of juHice, The glafs has been fo much broke and mifplaced that little of the original deiigns can be colIeQed : but one large and two finall windows remain perfe6l at the eaft end, to perpetuate the remembrance of this beau- tifui art. The room is adorned with the pictures of King William and Q^een Mary, many eminent men of the county, mayors of the city and other bene- faclors* la 96 THE NORFOLK TOUR. In 1597, an order was made that the rooms on the Eaft end of the guyld-hall, heretofore ufed for a common gayle, lhall ceafe to be ufed for a pri- fon after 20 Odober next: and that the common gaol for the county of this cittie, fnall be kept in the houfe called the Lamb/' where it flill con- tinues. The fherilF's ofnce continued to be kept on the North fide of the Guildhall till 1625, when it was removed into the old chapel oppofite to it on the South fide, but that running into decay was pulled down, and the prefent Iheriff's office built on its fite. In this Hall the aiiizes and quarter feffions for the city are held. Here is alfo the mayor's office, for the daily adrainiftration of juftice ; the town • clerk's and chamberlain's offices ; and all eledlions for May- or, Aldermen, Sheriffs and Common-councilmen are here deterpiined. The ASSEMBLY HOUSE. The veHibule pro- jedls about 26 feet from the principal building, and is 15 feet wide; afcending four fleps, upon the right is a card room 22 feet fquare, and a proportionate height, and on the left another 22 feet by 28 ; above the card rooms are two other rooms of the fame di- menfions, and over the veilibule a ftore room. The long room is 66 feet by 23, the ceiling very neatly ilucco'd, from whence hang five elegant glafs luHres^ that in the c'entre having 24 branches, the tv^o next 8 each, and the two end ones 14 each % it has five windows on the South fide, and a Venetian one at the Weil end 1 is wainfcotted round, about nine feet high.. THE NORFOLK TOUR, 97 liigh, and above are llucco pannels, ornamented with feftoons. The fmall room is 50 feet by 27, the ceil- ing the fame as the long room, from whence there are four brafs chandeliers fufpended by gilt links; in other refpedls, the ornaments are nearly the fame as in the Jong room. The orchellras are over the doors at the entrance of each room, fapported by two neat fluted pillars.. The tea room is between the two -rooms appropriated to dancing, and is 27 feet fquare : an elegant chandelier of 24 branches is fufpended ia the centre of the ceiling by a gilt link. On the South iide of this room is a recefs of about ten feet, in the form of a half decagon ; in this place tea and other refrefhments are delivered out to the company. The communication is by two doors with arched cafings, ten feet high and five feet wide, fo conflru6led as to be eafily removed, and then the eye commands at once a fuit of rooms of 143 feet, illuminated by ten branches holding 150 candles ; and the company form- ing into one row, may dance the whole length of the building. The THEATRE, built by the late Mr. Thomas Ivory, after the model 4>f old Drury Lane houfe, will conveniently hold about 70I. and like all others intended for the fame purpofe, appears much to ad- vantage when moderately filled with company, and properly lighted ; 'tis then that any traveller having a tade for theatrical amufements, neatnefs and ele- gancy, canno: fail of being agreeably entertained with 9§ THE NORFOLK TOUR. with the appearance of the audience, the performers and the houfe. BLACK FRIAR^s - BRIDGE, formerly called New-bridge, was buiit of timber about the time of Henry V. re-built in the reign of Edward IV. and in 1586 again re-built with Hone, this alfo becoming ruinous, and it being thought that the three arches of which it was compofed, too much impeded the paffage of the water, when a flood was to be apprehended, it was taken down in the year 1784, and a new one of Portland ftone with but one arch, built in the fame place, from a plan given by Mr. Soane 5 and, as great weights would be conllantly paffing over, it was necef- fary to have the new bridge as flat as poffible v/ithout injuring the navigation. The chord line of the arch is forty-two feet. The foundations of the abutments are piled and planked. The voufToirs of the arch have their joints worked perfedly fmooth, and are fet dry in milled lead, and in the middle of the joint of each voufToir are inferted two cubes of iron of three pounds weight, let equally into each Hone, and chan- nels are funk from the tails of the vouffoirs to the ca- vities of the iron joggles, and the whole of the cavities and channels are run full with lead ; the fuperflrudlure is iinilhed with iron railing, and it is much the hand- fomeft bridge in the city. The whole expence of pulling down the old bridge, and building the new one, was one thoufand two hundred and ninety pounds. The fteps next to St.. ■George's bridge-ftreet^ v/hich were in Mr. Soane's plan. THE NORFOLK TOUR. 99 plan, are not executed, the lioufes being too clofe to the bridge. The DUKE's PALACE ANCIENTLY confifted of many tenements, pur- chafed by Alan Percy, clerk, brother to the old Duke of Northumberland : He^fold it to the Duke of Nor- folk, in the time of Henry VIIL who converted it into a palace, and made it his principal place of re- fidence. In 1602, the old palace was demolifhed, and a noble one begun by Henry Duke of Norfolk, but fcarcely finiflied before it was pulled down by his grandfon Thomas, on account of the ill-behaviour of the mayor, in not permitting his comedians to en- ter the city with trumpets, &c. From that time it has been entirely negle£led : The fmall remaining part of the building is hired of the Duke for one of the city workhoules. Dr. Fuller remarks, that this palace was the greatefl he had ever feen out of London, It had a covered B o^uoling' alley , (the firft of the kind in England) and, when Duke Thomas was taxed in 1596 for afpiring to the Crown of Scotland, by marriage with the un- fortunate Queen Mary, he proteiled to (^ueen Eliza- beth, that when he was in his Bowling-alley at Nor- wich, he counted himfelf as great as a King in Scot- land. The BISHOPRIC K. THIS Diocefe was once divided into two Bifhop- ricks, the one of Suffolk, at Dunwich, then on the fea K coafl^ too THE NORFOLK TOUR. coafl, now under the water, and generally called Southvvold Bay ; the other of Norfolk, at North- Elmham. Sigebert, King of the Eall Angles, return- ing out of France, after the death of Gerpenwald, where he had been banlfiied, and there converted to chriftianlty, and being placed on the throne, had brought over with him Felix, a Burgundlany made him Bilhop of the Eaft Angles, and placed his See at Dunvv'ich, in the Eaflern part of Suffolk. In 636 his third fucceflbr, Bifus, being old, divided this Diocefe into two parts, appointing Bedwin the firfl Bifhop of that part which is now called Norfolk, placing his See at North-Elmhani in 673, After the death of St. Humbert, the tenth and hiit Bifhop of Elmham, both Sees laid vacant upwards of loo years, by reafon of the devailations of the Danes o In the year 955 both Sees were joined in one at Elm- liamjand continued there till 107^, when Herfall, or Arfaftus the izd Bifncp removed the feat of the See to Thetford, in Norfolk, where it continued till io88 ; there being only three Biiliops of Thetford ; the lall, Herbert Leling, or de Lolinga, the 2 4.th Bp. tranilated the See to Norwich, in the reign ofWm. Rufus, 1088, where it has continued ever fmce. The value of the Bilhoprick is greatly diminiihed fmce the Reformation, as King Hen^y VIII. feized all the lands belonging to I it, and gave only in exchange the lands belonging to the monaitery of St. Bennet in the Holme. — This See has given to the church of Rome two Saints; cind to the nation fi/e (i) Lord Chancellors, one (2) Lord (i)— 1073 Arfaflu--- Galfagus— --.'©SS Lofinga— 1299 Joha. Salmon—- and ag &c. an auditor, bailiffs of the feveral manors, the general apparitor, and the por- ter to the principal gate of the palace, leading to St. Martin's Fiaine The C A T H E D Pv A L. THE Cathedral was founded by Bifhop Herbert in J 096, when Roger Bigot with mofcof the nobility and Ba- rons of the diocefe affiftgd at the ceremony, and by peca-.. Biary THE NORFOLK TOU|l. loj niary donations contributed largely to the undertak- ing : this firft building was chiefly comprifed of wood, which by various accidents, and the turbulence of the times, was often greatly damaged by fire. The pre- fent Cathedral is a fine Gothic free-f^one building, brought to the magnificent flate in which it now ap- pears by the bounty and induftry of its numerous and worthy benefadors at various times, and completed by Wm. Middleton the 36th Bifliop about the year 1 2 §4. The roof is adorned with various little images, well carved, reprefenting the hiftorical pafTages of Scripture, from the creation of the world to the afcen- fionofjefas Chrift, and the defcent of theHoly GhoR, ' The length of the whole building, from the Weft door to the entrance of the chapel of St. Mary the Great, (which flood at the Eafl end, but is now in ruins) is 400 feet ; and the extent of the tranfept or crofs ailes, from the North to South, iSo. The (haft or fpire, is very handfome and well pro- portioned, and the higheft in England except Salif- bury. In 1629 the upper part of it was blown down, and re-built in 1633. It is 105 yards and 2 feet from the pavement of the choir to the top of the pinnacle ; Urongly built with free-:ftone on the outfide and brick within. The upper window is the higheft afcent in- ward. The top Hone of the fpire confiH of half a ^lobe, one yard two inches broad, with a channel round it; from whence extend eight leaves of itone, fpreading outward, under which begin the eight rows cf crockets, continued down the fpire, at five feet diftance from each other. The weather cock^ placed K 3 i04 THE NORFOLK TOUR. here at theRelloration,is three quarters of a yardhigh^ and one yard two inches broad^ as is alfo the crofs bar» The original church, as left by Bilhop Herbert^ conliiled of the whole choir, tower, and the two tranfepts, with the North and South ailes of the choir beyond the tranfepts, and extended to the divifioa between the nave and the anti-choir, and no further 5 the lower part of which, now remaining, is the origi- nal building ; but fome of the ornaments between the arches, and the entire roofs and upper parts, are of a later date. After the building was completed, it was dedicated to the honor of the Holy Trinity, on the 24th of September, on which day the dedication feafl was annually celebrated. Bifhop Eborard, v/ho fuc- ceeded Herbert, built the whole nave, or body of the church, and its two ailes from the anti-choir or rood- loft door, to the Weil end | and the prefent building, except the roof of the nave and V/eilern end, is of hh foundation, . This was the fiate of the church till 1171, when It received conliderable damage by an accidental fire ; which was fully repaired by_ John of Oxford, the fourtli Biiliop, about the year iiQj, w^ho completely £tted "up and oanamenced the church, and prefented it with a new fet of veftmentr; The r,f M 'iihn to this pile was the noble chapel ff the Vh . r/y or St. Mary the Great, built by Waiter c 1 .he izivh. Bllhop ; a perfon fo re» markaL.s: lor I'.v.xtAy and goodneis, that his fhrine v/as vifited Lv [ ;rijP-"^ f:-'.;a various parts, and nu- rr.erou^ m'rp,c;ec .v-^e ;o be wrought at his tomb. This THE NORFOLK TOUR. 105 Thb wonder-working povv^er received a full confirma- tion from the miraculous efcape, as they termed it, of this chapel from the rage and fury of the citizens in 1272; when the whole church, tower, and adja- cent buildings, were totally defaced by fire, in an in- furreftion of the citizens, cccafioned by a violent dif- pute they were then engaged In with the monks. This affair coll the city three thoufand marks, which, with the liberal donations of the King, Queen, Bifhop and Nobility, fo fully repaired and completed the churchy that on Advent Sunday, 1278, King Edward I. and Eleanor his Queen, the Bilhops of London, Hereford^ and Waterford, and feverai of the Nobility, were pre- fent at its re-dedication by Wm. de Middleton, then, enthroned Bifhop of the See. At the fame time^ John de Chifil, Bifhop of London, dedicated the altar where the body of St. William was buried, to the honour of our Saviour and all vSaints ; Thomas de Canteloupe, Bifliop of Hereford, dedicated the oppofite altar, by the choir door, to the honour of the blelTed Virgin, St. John the Baptift, St. Giles the Ab- bot, and all holy Virgins ; and Stephen Bifliop of Waterford in Ireland, dedicated the altar, at the facriil's chamber-door, to St. Peter and Paul, and all the Saints. But it foon after appearing that the old tower was much weakened by its being fet on fire in the late infurreclion, a new one was eredled by Biihop Ralph de V/a!po!e, and entirely finiflied at his foie expence. In 1361, on the irth of January, the ileeple of the cathedral vv^as blown down, by which accident th^^;p»_ choir received confiderable damage ; to repair which, Eifhcp id6 the NORFOLK TOtfR. Bifhop Percy gave 4O0I. and obtained an aid of ^d. in the pound from his clergy for the fame purpofe : and from thefe funds the prefent tower was built, and., the fpire ereded. In 1629, upper part of the fpire was blown down and re-built in 1633. In 1463 the church was confiderably damaged with lightening, which was the means of its receiving very large improvements and additions : For it was at this time, that the noble roof covering the nave of the church, and carved with moll of the principal flories of the Old Teftament, and the upper part of the nave itlelf, were begun and iinifhe i at the expence of Bilhop Lyhert and his friends: Who alfo paved the Cathe- dral, built the fibne rood-loft now remaining, and ere(rted a tomb over the founder, v.hich was dellroyed in the grand Rebellion: And that tlie memorial of fuch worthy benefadlors, might be tranfmitted to pof- terity, the windows of the nave were adorned with the arms of England, Edward the ConfefTor, Charles Earl of Richmond, and many other eminent perfons. After Lyhert's death, Bi (hop Go] dwell, his fuc- cefTor, beautliied the tower and the roof of the choir, with the fame kind of work as his predeceffor had or- namented the nave ; fitted up the choir itfelf and cha- pels adjoining, in the form they remained in till the late alterations, by Bifhop Younge ; and covered the vaulted or arched Hone roof with lead. In i509,Bi{hop Nix repaired the the tranfept ailes which had been^ much damaged by a late fire, and covered them with a fcone roof. Thus the church re- aiained till the difToIution, when the, crucifixes, ima- THE NORFOLK TOUR. 107 ges and pi6lures, were removed, and the arches where the images flood filled up, and whitened over* In 1601 part of the fpire was ftruck down by light- ning, bat the damage was foon repaired; and the church continued in this ftate, till the outrageous de- vacations committed in it in the year 1648, by order of the then ruling powers, who demolifhed the organ, broke the painted glafs in the windows^ defaced the monuments, deilroyed the veilments, and committed every kind of facrilege, under the pious mafk of pure religion, and ncceiTary reformation^ At the Reftoration, the church was £tted up again in its ^ form er manner ; and in the fame place where the organ had flood, the prefent one was erefled by Dean Crofts and the Chapter, and afterwards beaotJ-- .£ed by Dean Aftley. At the fame time the prefent cope was given by ' Sir Philip Harbord, then high fherifF of Norfolk: And the city gave loolr to pur- -chafe plate for the altar. From that time till about the year 1740, very little had been done, when Dean Bullock and the Chapter caufed it to be thoroughly cleaned and repaired. It was again completely repaired and beautified by the Dean and Chapter in Bifhop Younge's time, 1763. In the windov/s at the Eail end of the choir is a repre- fentation of the transfiguration, and the twelve apof« ties, painted on glafs, by Dean Lloyd's Lady : It is al- lowed to be a very curious piece of wcrkmsnfliip, and the choir is now cue ef the moft complete and beau- in the kino-dom. loB THE NORFOLK TOUR, The bell general view of the Cathedral, is from the North fide, in the Bilhop*s garden. The CLOISTER, fituated on the South fide of the church, is the largeil: quadrangle of the kind in England, each fide meafuting about 58 yards in length, is near 14 feet broad, and 16 feet fix inches high ; the flone roof being ornamented with elegant carvings, reprefenting the vifions of the Revelation, our Saviour's Crucifixion and Refurredion, the Legends of St. Chrillopher, St. Lawrence, &c. At the grand entrance at the South-weft corner, the Efpoufals, or Sacrament of Marriage, are carved in ftone ; and as foon as you enter the Cloifter from hence, on the left hand, are the two lavatories, where the monks ufed to ^wafh their hands. Over one of them is carved a fox in a pulpit, in the habit of a fecular prieft, holding up a goofe to his auditory : Intended as a reflexion on the fecular clergy, or parifli priefts, to whom the monks bore an inveterate hatred. In 1297, Robert de Walpole, Bifhop of Norwich, iindertook the building of that part o-f the cloifter lying on the South fide of the church, and the old chapter-houfe ; which he finifhed, together with fo much of the cloifter as extends from the grand en* trance into the church, called the prior's entrance^ with all its curious v/ork, to the pafTage leading to the chapter-houfe, now to Life's Green, near to which he caufed a Aone to be placed, with this in* fcription : Dominus Radulfus Walpole Norwicenfis epif- copus me pofuit*" Richard THE NORFOLK TOUR. 109 Richard de Uppehall, whom the Bifliop employed in diredling thefe works, added three more of the arches on that fide of the cloiller ; the other five arches, and the South fide of the cloifter reaching to the arch over which the efpoufals, or facrament of marriage, are carved, were built by Bifhop Salmon and his friends ; and by the profits ariiing from the office of pittancer, which the convent expended on this work. The North fide adjoining to the church, was ere£led by Henry de Well, who expended there- upon the fbni of two hundred and ten marks, over and zhovQ 20I. given by John de Hancock, and a portion of the pittance money alloted for that pur-^ pofe. The Weil fide, beginning at the efpoufals aforefaid, together with the fumptuous carved en- trance near the refedory or common eating hall, the lavatories, and the door entering into the firangers hall, were built by Jeffrey Simonds, Redor of St. Mary in the Marfh, at the expence of lool. and the part ranging from the ilrangers hall -door, to the en- trance into the church, together with that entrance, by the executors of Bifhop Wakeryng. In 13B2, Walter de Berney, citizen of Norwich, gave lOol. towards the iron work and glazing of the cloiller windows ; which work was perfe tower there is an excellent peal of twelve belU", caft by MeiTrs. Pack and Chapman, of London, in n75» Tenor weighing 41 cwt. The money paid for exchanging the old ten bells for this new peal of tweh^e, amcunting to L more M2 THE NORFOLK TOUR. more than 800I. was raifed by voluntary fubfcnption. The whole building is of free ftone, extending 212 feet, the breadth from the North to South 66 feet, the ailes are 20 feet broad, the nave 30 and 90 feet long. The height from the pavement of the nave to the fummit of the roof is 60 feet, the whole being covered with lead, and fupported by two rows of pil- lars, remarkably neat and ilender, forming eliptic arches at their top. The chancel is fix'y feet long, and the fame., breadth with the nave. At the Eafi end of the chan- cel is the old veflry, and under it a room called the trealury, lupported by an arch : The prefent veflry is in the Scuth-eafi corner of the church. The high altar, which is very advantageoufly raifed ^bove the rell of the church,. Hands upon another arch, through which there iormcr^^y laid a common pallc^.ge, now :l]:opped up. I'he altar-piece reprefenting the llory of St. Peter being delivered out of prifon, was painted by that ingenious artift, Mr. Catton. and prefented to the parifh by Alderman Starling, in 1768. The furniture of the altar is crirnfon velvet, and the plate exceedingly grand, all but one cup be- ing double gilt : One piece of it is remarkably curi- ous, being an elegant Handing cup and cover, of frlver, double gilt, v>^eighing 46 oz, i gr. i pt. given by Sir Peter Gleane, Knight, whereon is "beauti- fully chafed the flory of Abigail bringing prefents to Efeivid. In the veftry hangs a neat old painted carving in aLabafier, of nine female faints, probably defigned for fome altar of Su Margaret, who is the principal iigure^ THE NORFOLK TOUR. 1^3 ^gure, and here reprefented as holding down a dra- gon ; amongiithe red is St. Hilda, holding a book and pafLoral ilafF, and St. Barbara, a tower and palm- branch. There are alfo paintings of oar Saviour's Refurredtion, and St. Paul in prayer, and a few books, the Til oil curious of which, is an odlavo manufcript biole upon vellum, written in 1340, and a folio ma- nufcript much more ancient, containing all St. Paul's epiilles with a comment ; it is beautifully illuminated and formerly belonged to Robert de Newell. St. LAURENCE'S CHUPvCH' STANDS upon the fpot, which before the retreat of tiie lea, and whilfl this continued a confiderable filhing town, was the quay or iaading-piace for aii herrings and other fifh brought into this city. The tithes of this fiflierywere fo confiderable, whilft in the hands of the Bilhopof the Eall Angles, that about the year 1038 on Bifhop Alfric's granting the quay, ilaithe, hagh (or cioie inclofed with hedges) together with the adjoining maniion, to Bury- abbey, and the abbot's undertaking to build the church, he referved to his monaftery a yearly payment ofalaft of her- rings. On this hagh, in the time of the ConfefTor, the parifli began to be built, the abbey having part- ed with it though they referved the quay or flaithe, on which they founded the old churchy which was a redlory in two medieties : The abbey had the houfe and one mediety, and the re6iory the other. In William Rufus*s time the medieties were joined, and ever fmce it hath continued one entire redory. The L 2 laQ. JI4 THE NORFOLK TOUR. lall of herrings, payable by the redor of the abbey^ was converted into a yearly payment of ^os. fome time in the reign of Henry III. which continued to be paid till that of Henry Vll. when it was remitted on account of the fmailnefs of the profits. The redlory being valued ai five marks was taxed at half a mark, and paid 3d. fyrodals. It remains in the KiP.g's books at 4I. I3s.9d. and being fworn of the clear yearly value of 26]. 5s. iid. |- is difcharged of iiril fruits and tenths^, and capable of augmentation. The old choixh vvas pulled down about the year 1460, and the prefent beautiful and regular pile fmifned in 1472, at the expence of the abbot and monailery of Bury, the parifhioners, and many pri- vate benefadors. It con fills of a noble fquare tower^ one hundred and twelve feet high, having a door at the Weft end ; over it on the North part is carved a reprefentation of the martyrdom of St. Laurence in flone ; the faint is feen broiling on a grid-iron, and the foldiers are bufied in tending the fire. On one part is figured a King crowned, defigned to reprefent the Father, with a fword in his hand, ftriking at the Emperor Decian, at whofe command this cruelty was exerc^fed on the faint, who is falling under the ilroke. On the other fide is another piece of carv- ing, reprefenting Edmund the King tied to a tree, and the Danes iliooting arrows in his body ; near them lies his head among fome bufnes, alluding to the part of the legend, which fays, that v/hen they could not kill him with arrows, Hinguar the Danifli General ordered them to fmite off his head, and throw it amongft the thickefl thorns in an adjacent wood^ THE NORFOLK TOUR. wood, where a wolf finding it, preferved it from be- ing devoured by any bird or beail of prey, till it was difcovered by the Chriltians, and buried with the body. The CHAPEL in St. George's cf Colgate, is an elegant odangular ftruifttire, built in the year 1756 by the late Mr. Thomas Ivory, The NORFOLK and NORWICH HOSPITAL without St. Stephen's gate, is a very neat building in the form of an H ; it coft 9,2951. was ereded and is flill fupported by voluntary contributions, and was firfl opened for the reception of in-patients Novem- ber 7, 1772. The phyficians and furgeons attend in turn to take in-patients, every Saturday, at eleven o'clock in the forenoon ; and every Tuefday, at the feme hour^, to prefcribe to' the out-patients. The Governors meet every Saturday at eleven o'clock, to tranfad the bufmefs of the hofpital, STATE OF THE PATIENTS Fro?7i July n, 1792, to July rj, 1793. Patients remaining on the books Ldl year Patients admiued fi-oni July- 11, 1792, to July 17, 1793. - . ^ ^ " r Cured ReiieveJ 1 Not ! li- te rcreh-e benefit Difcharged ,) ^'^^-^''^^^ ^ rornon-. Dea:hs I At liieir own requt:ft ! Went away without Iea"<2 t. For irregularity ninu on ihe books In. Out. Tot. 62 20Z 4.54 337 841 510 1043 2H7 221 508 8c 132 ir 1 2 2 c I 0 68 68 19 7 26 I I 0 II 3 c 3 20 25 r ■', ■ 2-8 490 5 53 104.3 Ji6 THE NORFOLK TOUR. N. B. There appear to have been twenty fix In- patients lefs and tv/enty-fix out-patients more dif- charged than were admitted becaufe twenty-fix who were admitted as in-patients were afterwards made out-patients. One hundred and fixty-one patients have this year been admitted as cafualties, and cafes that would not admit of delay, of whom one hundred and thirty-one have been difcharged cured, two greatly relieved, one by requeft, eight have died, and nineteen remain oa the books ; fixty of them were fradures-— to which the doors of this Houfe are open at all hours, without any particular recommendation ; fix have undergone the ©peration for the ftone, and were cured. A GENERAL ACCOUNT of the PATIENTS ad- mitted and difcharged from the firft opening of the Hofpital for Out-Patients, July nth, 1772, and for In~Patients, Nov. 7th;, ^772^ to July 7th, I793« Patients admitted Cured Relieved Not likely to receive beneiit ■Kfcharged J " " ^ ^ . For non-.attenaaiKe - 1 At their ovjn requefl: I Went away vvithout leave L For irregularity - Deaths » - „ Remaining on the books In, Out. (Tot. 8170 4136 53^9 3268 1204 1125 2329 88 39 127 176 tg8 284 0 1204 1204 36S 214 582 154 0 154 44 8 5^ 405 174 579 7S 160 238 7E36I63CO 1413& N. B. There appear to be three hundred and thirty- four in-patients lefs, and three hundred and thirty-four out-patjents more difcharged than were admitted, be- caufe three hundred and thirty-four who were admitted as in-patients were afterwards made out-patients. BETHEL. THE NORFOLK TOUR. 117 BETHEL or BEDLAM. FOUNDED by the third daughter of John Man, Efq. and widow of the Rev. Mr. Samuel Chapman, redor of Thorpe by Norwich, in the year 17 1 3, for the convenient reception and habitation of lunaticks, and not for natural-born fools or ideots.'* According to the defire and advice of her late huf- band, by her will, dated Dec. 4 i7i7,fhe fettled all her eftates in Norfolk and Norwich on trullees, giving to them, and the majority of them, the fole power and management of the houfe, ordering them to choofe, and place, or difplace the mailer (who is to dwell therein and take care af the lunaticks) and to appoint phyficians, apothecaries. Sec, Thofe only who are deftitute of friends or relations to be kept there gratis : and according to the diredlions of the will there are as many poor deftitute lunaticks kept as the revenues will afford, (which are greatly in- creafed through the good management of the truf- tees and by numerous benefa6lions) the inhabitants of the city of Norwich being always to be preferred i and whenever it lhall happen that the truftees be en- abled to maintain more than the city offers for relief, they are then impowered to receive fuch objeds from any parifh in the county of Norfolk or elfewhere : but the phyfician mull firll: certify that they are proper objedls, and the mailer have an appointment under the hands of a majortiy of the feven truftees before he can receive any one into the houfe. The tru (Tees may alfo admit lunaticks whofe friends or parilhes agree to THE NORFOLK TOUR. pay them the moderate allowance of 43. or 4s. 6d. a week,. A very elegant committee room, has been lately built, which is adorned with the portraits of the fouiidrefs and fe-vei al of the triiitees. The maker's falary, befides his dwelling' and two chaldrons of ccals yearly, is forty pounds ; ten pounds cf that fum are in lieu of the money ^^Iven by thole who vifit the hoofe, now put into a box^ the keys of which' are in the truitees hand.s ^ind applied by them to the^ increafe of the foundationo The PUBLIC LIBRARY. In Odober 1794, th^ Public Library was removed from the city Library room, adjoining to St. Andrew*s Hall, to the build* ing formerly the Roman Catholic chapel^ in Wymer- fireet, where books are delivered by the Librarian to the fabfcribers every day between the hours of eleven- and two, Sundays and the following days excepted, 29th of May, 4th of June> the Guild-day, and the day preceding ; 25th of Odober and 5th of Novem^ ber. Several churches and other buildings- in the city- are encrufied with cut flints. The North wall of. * Bridewell, thus built, is feventy-fix feet in lengthy ^ by about twenty-Eve feet high, and elleemed to he anc. of the greatefi curiofities of the kind in England. * Bridewell wj;3 bulk by Bartholomew Anpleyard ?.bci-it the yeat ■ 1370. yvm. x4.pp]eyard his fon, ihe fhft Mayor of Norwich, fervQtJ ^ his Mayoralty here in 1403, The. building was burnt down. Oft».^ aa^ ^75^; "^nd again irmch damaged >y fire July 28, 1753*: THE NORFOLK TOUR. iig The * flints are fquared to fuch a nicety that the edge of a knife can fcarcely be iniinuated between the joints : moft of them are about three inches fquare, the furface is very fmooth, and no brick- work can appear more regular, A gentleman defirous of fpending a few days in Norwich, and of being acquainted with every thing in it worth obfervation^ will not omit of feeing the vari- ous employments of its exteniive manufadories, in iluiFs, cottons. Shawls, and other ornamental furniture, the firfl and laft of v/hich are here carried to a per- fedion no where elfe to be met with in England. — Of the public buildings, we recommend to his particular notice, the Cathedral, with the adjoining cloiilers ; the Caftle ; the Bariacks ; St. Andrew's Hall ; the Guild Hall in the market-place ; St. Peter of Man- croft Church ; the Theatre, and the Aflembly Houfe. The Buildings in St. Giles's-flreet and Surrey-ftreet, and Mrs. Chambers's Houfe on St. Catherine's-hill, will well repay the trouble of a traniient view. There are two good general profpeds of the city ; one on the South eaft, from the meadows leading toward Thorpe ; the other on the North eaft, from the (hoot- ing ground : The view from the lower part of Bra- condale-hill will amply gratify any gentleman hav- * Mr. Talman fays that the Jews introduced the art of fquaring flints : and Dr. Cromwell Mortimer, Secretary to the Royal Society, In a note on a paper of Mr. Arderon's on this very wall, obierves, that the gate of the Auftin Friars, at Canterbury, that of St. John's Abbey, at Colchefter, and the gate nearWhitehr.il, Weftminfler, are in the fame tafie. But the platform on the top of the Royal Obfer- vatory at Paris, which, inftead of being covered with lead, is paved with flint after this manner, is an inftance that the French have in fome meafure recovered this art. Phil. Tranf. abr.vol. lo, p. 1304. 120 THE NORFOLK TOUR. ing a talle for beautiful landfcape ; and the public Gardens or Chapel iield, may adminifter fome confo- lation to a h.alf weary traveller after perambulating our ill-paved flreets. AMES fays the Jrt: of F rim ing v^?ts firft invented about 1457, but by whom, orat v/hat place it was firft pradifed, typographical hiilorians are not agreed. Hollingihed gives the honor of the invention to John Guthenberg, and fixes the place to Mentz, in Ger- many, about 1440, Fox and others contend, that John Fuii, or Fauftus^ a goldfmith of Stralburg, and afterwards citizen of Mentz, was the inventor, about the year 1450, and that Guthenberg learnt it of him^. The people of Flarlem in Holland, confer the fame honor upon Laurence Cofter, their fellow citizen.. From fuch a contrariety of evidence it is now impof- fible to determine who was the inventor of this nobk art, which foon fpread over the greater part of Europe, rapidly diffuUng knowledge and learning among mankind. — Though the ar^t is faid to have been in- troduced into England about 1457, we do net know of any book printed in this kingdom of fo early a date, and if it was then at all known amongH us, it mull have been confined to fome few of the Religious-, who are accufed of having fold the books fo printed for Ms-///^r///j— A deception which had been prac- tifed by Full, when he carried feveraf copies of the iirft great work in printing (the Bible in Latin) to Paris. Be this as it may, William Caxton, a mercer of London, certainly learnt tliis art in Flanders or Germany about 1457, after he was more than 50 years old, and there printed an EngliOi tranllation oF Mecujel or the hiltory cf Troy in 1471, foon afte^ THE NORFOLK TOUR, 121 which he returned into his native country, and the firft 'book known to he printed in England by him, is a tranflation from the French of the Game Q9 Chess, 14-4, which if not the /rjl hook printed in England, is certainly the firft that was printed in this country with fufd metal types : For though Frediric Corfelli, a Dutchman or German, is /aid to have print- ed at Oxford, in 1463, Sancti Hiercnymi expcjltio in Symholum Apoji olor urn, it h^s been doubted, whether there ever was a Primer of that name in Enghind, and if there was, the book here noticed is printed with feparate ixcoden types • Thomas Souchier, elected Archbilhop of Canter- ' I bury in t |54, deferved highly of the learned world, for being the principal inilrument in introducing the noble art of printing into England. This difcovery being fo beneficial to learning, -and its introdudion among us refleding fo much honour en this Prelate's name, a fhort account of it may not be unacceptable in this place. The Aichbifhop being informed that the inventor John Guthenberg, had fet up a Prefs at Har- km, Vv'as extremely defirous that the Eng'iih might be made mafters of fo beneficial an art. I'othi-^ pur- pofe he perfuaded King Henry VI. to difpatch one Robert Tournour, belonging to the wardrobe, pri- \-ately to Hnrlem. Thib man, furn'fhed with a thou- fand marks, of which the Archbifhop fupplied three hundred, embaiked for Holland, and, to difg'iife the matter, went in company with one Caxton, a mer- chant of London, pretending himfelf to be of the fame fyrcfeiTion. Thus concealing his name and his bufi- nefs^ THE NORFOLK TOUR. nefs, he went firft to Amllerdam, then to Leyden, and at laft fettled at Harlem ; where having fpent a great deal of time and money^ he fent to the King for a frefh fupply, giving his Highnefs to underlland, that he had almoU compafled the enterprize. In fhort, he perfuaded Frederic Corfelli, one of the Compofi- tors to carry off a Set of Letters^ and embark with them in the night for London. When they arrived, the Archbiihop thinking Oxford a more convenient place for printing than London^ fent Corfelli down thither. And kft he ihould flip av^ay before he had difcovered the whole fecret, a guard was fet upon the Prefse And thus the Myflery of Printing appeared ten years fooner in the univerfity of Ovfbrd than at any other place in Europe, Harlem and Mentz ex- cepted. Not long after there were prefTes fet up at Weftminiler, St, Alban's, Worcei^r, and other mo- nafteries of note. After this manner Printing v/as in- troduced into England, by the care of Archbifhop Bou- chier, in the year of Chrift 1464, and the third of King Edward IV. After the introduction of Printing into England by Caxton, near a hundred years elapfed before it was pradlifed in Norwich, and then it was introduced by Anthony Solmpne one of the Grangers, for which lie was prefented with his freedom. The only piece which he is known to have printed, is intitled, Cer- tain verfes, written by Thomas Brooke, Gentleman, of Rolfbie, concerned with Throgmorton and others, in a confpiracy in Norfolk, in the time of his imprifonment, the day before his death, who fuf- " feredat Norwich the 30th of Auguil 1570." Thefe are THE NORFOLK TOUR. 113 are contained in thirty- two verfes and at the end^ Finis quod, Thomas Brooke, imprinted at Norwich, in the pariih of Saynt Andrewe, 1570. Were it not known that the art of printing in Eng* land, was almoft exclufively confined to London, and the Univerfities of Oxford and Cambridge, till the beginning of the prefent century, it would be difficult to believe, that after its having been pra6lifed in Norwich in 1570, it ceafed there for 130 years, and we hear no more of it till 1701, when a Mr. Francis Surges carried on the bufinefs upon a very fmall fcale, in a houfe near the Red-well, and there pubiifhed a pamphlet of 17 pages, in 1701, entitled Tome Obfer^ vations on the ufe and original of the noble Art and Myftery of Printing ; which I believe was the fi^rft EiTay in the Art made here, that had any pretenfiOns to be called book-work . Mr. Burges meeting with but little encouragement in his bufinefs at Norwich, publifned this pamphlet by way of apolgy for the attempt, in which he endea- voured to prove, what ha^ been generally admitted, that the Art of Printing is of confiderabk ufe in a trading place, a great means of promoung piety, and a certain method of doing good to other trades. He next gives a fliort hiilory of the invention of the Arr, and quotes fome palTages from Junius, and other an- cient writers,' tending to ftiew, that Laurentius Coder, of Harlem, in Holland, was the firil who pradi^d it in Europe, about the year 1440. Printing is faid to have been known in China, above two thoufand years, but having no letters to make worvis, their method is fo different from v/hat is pradifcd in Europe, that it M fcarcely 114 THE NORFOLK TOUR. fcarcely deferves the name of printing, Thej hav@ as many boards, as there are pages in the book, on which their charaders are carved, one reprefenting a man, another a houfe, &c. and of thefe charadlers they have fuch a multitude, that few of them knov/ the one hal£ The origin of Printing has been afcribed to the lefs important invention of cards, by which, it was at leall, certainly preceded. Cards have been known ever lince the year 1388, and the difcovery of them attri- buted to Jaquemin Gringonneur, who made them for the purpofe of amafing Charles VL King of France. The names engraved in wood under the figures, are tlt^ hrik known impreffijas of iettersc By degrees a greater quantity of text was added. ^khe art of making paper from linen rags, was brought into Spain by the Arabs, and £rll pradlifed in V^ilencia and Catalonia ; thenpe it paiied into Franco in 1260, Germany 1312, England 13 20, and 1342. The fird book prinievl upon paper made iu Englan^ is Barihdcmnis de Proprietatibus Rerii?n, by W. de Wordcs Vv'ithout a date, but fuppoled in the year i49S\or 1494. The KEfeLS and WHERRIES which navigate be. tween Nor^^ich and Yarmouth, are acknowledged to be fuperior the fmall craft on any other flream in England, for carrying a larger burden, and being worked at a fmaller expence. They are from 1 5 to 50 tons, have bat cne mall, which lets down by a wind- las placed at the ftern, cany one large fqaarefail, are covered clofe by hatches, and have a cabin fuperior to many THE NORFOLK TOUR. 115 liiany coafling vefTels, in which it is not unfrequent- for the keelman and his family to live. They are navi - gated by never more than two men, often by a man and his wife, or one man and a boy. The uflia^ paf- fage for a loaded keel, is from twelve to fixteen hours, when light they fometimes perform it in five hours. The river is fufficiently broad in all places to admit two keels eafily to pafs each other, and in fome parts it is twice that breadth. In the whole diflance, 3^2 Eiiles, there is neither lock, bridge, or other impedi- ment to navigation. By thefe craft, grain of every kind that is grown in the county, flour, part of the goods manufadured in Norwich, for foreign mar- kets, and other heavy articles are fent to Yarmouth ; and they bring from- thence, coals, grocery, iromon- gery, fir timber, deals, wine, fpirits, &c. The freight for grocery, and other heavy goods imported, does not exceed one ihilling and fix-pence per ton^ but fmaller articles pay about four-pence half-penny the hundred weight,- In the beginning of the civil war in the reign of Charles I. Norwich fent a party of 50 dragoons tojoiii Colonel Cromwel's regiment at Cambridge, and im- mediately after raifed 100 more, and mounted them upon horfes, taken from" the loyalifls in the city, whom they called maligmants. The parliament laid a weekly afieiTment upon the whole kingdom of 33,518]. of which the county of Norfolk raifed 1,2501. in the following proportions: The county 1,12 ;I. Norwich 53!. Lynn. 27I lis. jod. Yarmouth 34I. 16s. 5d. and Thetford 5I. 1 15. .9d. M z As u6 THE NORFOLK TOUR. As the foKovving verfes contain a handfome compli- ment to our fair citizens^ ferve to convey feme idea of the city itfelf near 200 years ago^ and were not thought unworthy of a place in the venerable Cam- den's excellent Britannia, we hope they wili be ac- ceptable to the readers of the Norfolk Tour, They were written in Latin by Arthur Johnflon^ principal of the Marifhcal College in Aberdeen, and next to the elegant Buchanan, the bell Latin poet of modern times. Johnflon was born in ^580, at Cafkiebean, in Scotland, which town he celebrates. Lie mentions a curious fad, viz. that the lhadow of the high mountain of Benochie, diiiant about fix Englifli miles, extends to the houfe of Caikiebean at the Equinox. He was phyfician to King Charles I. and publiflied an elegant verfion of the pfalms in Latin verfe, in 1637, which has been reprinted feveral times ; he was the author of Mufas Anglicanas, or commendatory verfes upon perfons of rank in church and Hate at that time, alfo of fome Epigrams and other fmaller works, and died at Oxford in i64r . A town, whofe Hately piles and happy feat Her citizens and ftrangers both delight. Whofe tedious fiege and plunder made her bear In Norman troubles an unhappy fhare. And feel the fad eifedl of dreadful war. Thefe ftorrns o'er blown, now blefs'd with conftant peace. She faw her riches and her trade increafe. State here by wealth, by beauty wealth's outdone ; How blell, if vain excefs be yet unknown ! So fully is fhe fromherfelf fupply'd. That England^ while llie llands^ can never want aix head. Bt,. THE NORFOLK TOUR. 117 Dr. Fuller in the hlftory of the Worthies of Eng- land, publifhed in 1662, obferves, that he had been in Norwich about forty years before, when many of the houfes were covered with thatch; he wifhes ^' that the city may long flourilh in its full luftre, and then quaintly adds, yea may their Straw in due time advance into Tyle, and thereby their *^ houfes be better fecured againil the mercilefs ele* ment of fire, whofe furious raging is feldom bound- ed unl^fs by the want of fewel to feed on.'' Could the fame author have vifited Norwich in the year 1 794, there had been little occafion for his remark on thatched houfes, and he would havefeen his wifh ful- ly accomplifhed in the beauty and prefent improved ftate of the city. KETT's REBELLION. THE emptinefs of the treafury on the demife of Henry VIII. the . fadious difpofition of ambitious courtiers during, a minority,, the alterations then car- rying on in the ellabliihed religion of the country, and the war with the Scots and French, might be fully fuf- iicient to excite difcontent and rebellion, without hav- ing recourfe to the petty domellic grievance of the Inclofure of Commons and Wafle Lands, and that after the evil, if it were one, had been ordered to be re- moved. Kett's Reheliion made its firu appearance at Attle- burgh the 20 th of June 1549, in the fecond year of the M 3 reign * Perhaps Straw and Tyle may be taken ac one of FuMcrs pleafant pvm"^, from Jack Straw and V/atl Tyler, 118 THE NORFOLK TOUR. reign of Edward VI. when that King was but nine years old, and by the 7th of the following month it had made fuch progrefs, that the infurgents afTembled at Wymondham in great numbers ; and having chofen Robert Kett, a tanner of that place, for their leader, their firft exploit was levelling the fences of one Flowerdevv of Hetherfet, againft whom Kett is faid to have entertained fome perfonal animolity. The inclo- fures which Kett had made underwent the fame fate ; and their next determinaton was open and undifguif- cd rebellion. — Popular tumult is the dangerous en- gine of malignant fadlion ! and the pleafure arifmg from the hope of levelling all diilindions in fo- ciety, one of the higheft gratifications to a vulgar mind. Whatever the leaders of the infurgents at firll held out to beguile the unwary, they undoubtedly entertained a wifh, and had fome faint expedlations, of being able to overturn the Government both in church and Hate, which they fufficiently manifelled when their numbers became formidable, by demand- ing the fupprelTion of the gentry, the placing of new counfellors about the King, and the re-ellablifhment of ancient Rites. Of this difpofition Kett knew how to avail himfelf, and within lefs than a month from the commencement of the infurredion, he had colledled a body of more than twenty thoufand men round his fcandard, and encamping upon Moufhold-hill, belieged Norwich, and committed every kind of excefs,fuch as burning a great part of the city, plundering the ad- jacent country, ^and v>^antonly deflroying many of the principal inhabitants, and that for no other reafon, but that of their being Gentlemen. To fo high a pitch THE' NORFOLK TOUR, iig pitch of irregularity and extravagance had they ar- rived, that three thoufand bullocks, and twenty thou- fand (heep, befides all kinds of poultry in abundance, were devoured in their camp in a few days. Govern- ment at firft ufed every poffibie means to perfuade thefe deluded pe ople to difperfe and quietly return home, and follow their various occupations, but their own folly, or the knavery of their leaders, conilruing that into fear, which alone originated in motives of mercy and humanity, they obllinately refufed all the offers of peace which were made. This obliged Go- vernment to purfue the more efficient meafures, which the fafety of the country had placed in their hands, and the Marquis of Northampton^ with iifteen hundred horfe, was fent to relieve the city : He was accompa- nied by the Lords Sheffield and Wentworth, and many other eminent perfons : He entered Norwich the lafl day of July, and was attacked the fame night by the rebels, whom he repulfed after killing three hundred of them, but they renewed the attack the next day, when a furious engagement took place on St. Martin's Plain, in which the Lord Sheffield with about £fty foldiers were unfortunately killed, and the King*s forces obliged to retire out of the city. John Dudley, Earl of Warwick, widi part of the forces raifed for the Scottifh v^/ar, was next fent againft this lawlcf^ banditti ; he was accompanied by the Marquis of Northampton and other perfons of dilriniSiion, and many of the principal citizens, who had joined him at Cambridge. On the 23d of Augufl he encamp- ed with his troops between Norwich and Eaton, whence rm THE NOR^FOLK TOUR. whencehefent a fummons to the city (then in pofTefHori of the rebels) and afterwards a herald to Kett's camp on Moufhold, oftering a general pardon to all who would lay down their arms and quietly return home f which proving ineffedaal, the Earl's troops the next day forced their way into the city by Brazen- door, St. Stephen's-gate^ and the breaches made be- tween that and St. Giles's. The main body under the command of the Earl himfelf, entering by St. Bennet's-gate, proceeded diredly to the market-place, where he fixed his head quarters. Some amxmunition- waggons, belonging to the army, for want of proper orders, having, been driven through the city as far as Bilhop-gate, were feized by a party of the rebels, wKo - when conveying them to their cam^p, were overtaken and defeated by a party- of the Earl's farces, under Captain Drury, and- moil of the waggons recovered. The rebels Hill remaining in the city, had frequen-t ikirmifhes with the King's troops; intelligence of which being carried to the Earl, he- immediately marched and attacked their principal body then poiled in St. Andrew's Hreet, near the church, , in which 130 rebels were killed on the fpot, many taken prifoners, and the reft entirely driven out of the city. On the 26th the Earl was reinforced by a body of 1400 Swifs,. but the rebels ftill confident uf faccefs from the great fuperiority of their numbers, aided by the Vv'rong ap- plication of fome equivocating vulgar prophecies which they had got by heart, fuch as The Country GnoFes, Hob, Dick and Hick^.. With clubbes, and clouted f}ioone. Shall fill up Dully n dale, Y/ith. fiaughter'd belies (oom^- THE NORFOLK TOUR. 12! And The heedlefs men within the dale. Shall there be (lain both great and fmall. refufed to hearken to all overtures of peace which the Earl made, aad inconfiderately quitting the advan- tageous poll they occupied upon Moufhoid-hill, which had rendered the Earl's horfe of but little fervice, and enabled them to do fo much mifchief to the city, they marched to the adjacent valley called DuiTya dale, where ilrongly intrenching themfelves, they impru- dently determined to hazard a general engagements Fuller fays, The Englifh are accufed of always *^ having a prophecy for every occafion, and the re« bels fancied that DuiTyn dale might be interpreted *^ as meaning a foft pillow or bed for death to reft *^ upon, they fancied themfelves upholilerers to make, whereas they proved the fluffing to itll the fame.'* The Earl marched out of the city on the 27th of Auguft to attack them, but before he proceeded to ex- tremeties. Sir Edmund Knevet and Sir Thomas Pal- mer, knights, were fent to acquaint them, that if even then they would repent and lay down their arms, they fhould be pardoned, one or two only excepted. By which the two Ketts were undoubtedly meant This being unanimouHy refufed, an order for the attack was given, which commencing by a general dif- charge of the artillery, they were fo far difconcerted as to become an eafy conqueft, for the Eai Fs light horfe, and the infantry under Captain Drury, coming up at the fame time, broke in amongft them before they could recover themfelves, or clofe their ranks, and made a terrible carnage 5 however they once more f^iced about 1-22 THE NORFOLK TOUR. about, and fought more defperately than might have been expeded from fuch a rabble. The main body of their army being thus entirely broken, a general flight enfued, in which Robert Kett, their principal commander took the lead. In the battle and purfuit more than three thoufand Eve hundred of them v/ere killed, a great number wounded and taken prifon- ers ; with very little lofs to tfhe King's forces. Thus rage was conquered by courage, number by va- lour, and rebellion by loyalty. There flill remained a party of referve unattacked ; who having ftrongly barricaded themfelves with the carriages belonging to the army, feemed determined to fland it out to the laft extremity. The Earl therefore to avoid further eifufion of blood, once more offered them pardon, upon the fame conditions as before ; but fufpeding this to be a ftratagem, they hefitated to comply, till the Earl taking Norroy with him, pro- claimed their pardon, on which the whole company crying out God fave King Edward, thankfully ac- cepted it. After the battle the whole plunder was given to the foldiers, who openly fold itin the market- place. The next day, on intelligence being received that Robert Kett was apprehended in a barn at Swan- nington, the Earl fent twenty horfemen to condud: him to Norwich ; and the fame day nine of the prin- cipal ringleaders (the two Ketts excepted) were fen- tenced to be drawn;, hanged and quartered at the O-ak of Reformation, as they themfelves had chriflened it ; thirty were executed at the gallows without Magdalen- gate ; and forty- nine at thofe by the crofs in the mar- ket ; in-the vvhqle about three hundred fuffered. Some. THE NORFOLK TOUR. 1^3 Some gentlemen who had been cruelly treated by the infurgents, urged the Earl to further afls of feverity, which he fteadily refufed to comply with, declaring, that none fhonld fufFer who had accepted the ,ofFer of pardon.. The two Ketts were committed prifoners to the tower of London, tried and convided of high treafon^ and on the twenty-ninth of .November in the fame year, were delivered to Sir Edmund Windham, high fheriiF of Norfolk and Suffolk, who conducted them to the places of execution ; Robert was hanged in xhains upon a gibbet on the top of Norwich Caille^ and William upon Wymondham fteeple. Robert Kett, was a tanner in Wymondham, of con- fiderable property, and efi:eemed to be .a moil daring and refolute fellow. — Fuller remarks, that he was more wealthy then men of .his condition ufuall.y are, that he had more wit (a word in Fuller's time ^' ufed to exprefs knavery) than wealth, and more confidence, now called impudence, than either." And Stow obferves, that he po lie fled 50I. a year in land, and was worth above one thoiifand marks in goods.'' William ICett, his brother and partner in iniquity, was a butcher in the fame town, and re- markable for defperate hardinefs : His family was one of the moft ancient and Go riH ing in Wymondham, for in the twenty-fecond oi Edward the Fourth, John Knyght, alias Kett, was a principal owner there. Af- ter his con\ iclicn it \wd.b prefented at a court holden for the King's manor there, tl'.at Robert Knyght^ alias Kett, whowas hanged upon Norwich caflle for treafon, died feized of thirty acres of land held of the faid Tnanor^ 124 THE NORFOLK TOUR. manor, which efcheated to the King, who of his great clemency regranted them to William, fon and heir of the faid Robert, and his heirs for ever. In all civil commotions the Wife and Prudent are oppreiTed by anxiety, the thoughtlefs are elevated by hope, and thofe who are bankrupt in fortune and re- putation, exult in the general diflradion : and in a civil war exped to retrieve their credit and conceal their infamy. LIVES OF EMINENT MEN BORN AT NORWICH, Or, Vv'ho have principally resided there, HERBERT LOSINGA. the firft Bifhop of Nor» wich ; Bale fays that he was born at Orford, in Suf- folk. Hewasfome time abbot of Ramfey in Hun- tingdon, afterwards prior of the monafrery, of Fifcaud in Normandy, whence in 1088 he returned with Xing William Rufus, of whom he obtained various preferments ; was made Lord Chancellor, and in three years was grown fo rich as to be able to purchafe the abbey of Wincheiler for his Father Robert ; and the Bifhoprick of Thetford for himfelf, at the price of ijQooL Hence the verle was made. Films eft pater ahbciSy Si?no72 uf erque. Meaning that both of them were guilty of Simony ; for this Simoniacal ad he was fummoned to Rome by Pope Pafcal II. and by way of penance comm r'ded to build feveral churches and monafterles, all w iich he adually, and *tis faid, religiouily performed. Camden fays that the word Lepftng THE NORFOLK TOUR. 125 Leafing In Saxon fignifies a Lje or Trick, and for thl« reafon Bilhop Herbert had the furname of Lojluga^ a« being made up of lying and flattery, by whicli ke raifed himfeif to great honors and preferments. From the works of charity and munificence, which he left as witneffes of his imraenfe riches, he was called by William of Malmfbury, Vir pecunio/us. Fuller af- ferts that Bifhop Herbert was born at Oxford, but adds, that he might well ferve for two counties, be- ing fo different from himfeif, and two perlbns in e&6l:* When young loofe and wild, deeply guilty of the fin of Simony : When old nothing of Herbert was in Her- bert, ufing commonly the words of St, Hierom, Erra^ ^'zmus J.wvenus emendemus fines. When young we went aflray, now old we will amend. He was an excellent fcholar for thofe times, comely of perfonage, and wrote many learned treatifes mentioned by Pitfaeus. In the latter part of his life he was mild, affable-, biamelefs in his carriage, pure, innocent, and of exemplary vir- tue ; fincerely repenting of his former Simoniacal practices, and to atone for them built the Cathedral at Norwich, rmd a palace for himfeif and fuccelTors, on the North fide ; a monaflery for 60 monks on the South, St. Leonard's church (now called Kett's caflle) upon Moufliold-hill, another in the Bifhop*s court., now the clofe, St. Margaret at Lynn, St. Nicholas at Yarmouth, St. Mary at Elmham, and the Cluniac monafiery at Thetford. — In reviewing this liil, we ^cannot help exprefHng our allonifhment, that they Ihould (as we may fay) have been the labour of one Man's hands, and confefling, that if the founder of fo many and fuch magnificent edifices, really acquired N great 126 THE NORFOLK TOUR. great riches by the means of fervility and flattery, it was much to his honor, and we hope a full expiation of the frailties of a courtier, that he applied them^ not to the vain purpofes of an u/ele/s and oftentatious difplay of human power and greatnefs, but in the infi- nitely more commendable purfuic of ereding fuch magnificent monuments of piety, as promife to be the admiration of feveral fucceeding ages yet to come : and iiowfoever he might acquire the Surname o^LoJtnga, or be called Fir Pecuniofus (which is now no ftigma at all) we think that the private virtues and public cha- rities of his riper years were fuch, as in more modern times would have been efteemed fufHci'ent to atone for a multitude of the follies of youth. WILLIAM BATEMAN, Bifhop of Norwich, in the fourteenth century, and founder of Trinity-hall, in Cambridge, was born at Norwich in the latter end of the reign of Edward I. He was from his tendered years, of a docile and ingenious difpofition. Having therefore made a good proficiency in learning, where- in he fur pa (Ted all his equals, he was f«nt to the Uni- verfity of Cambridge. After having gone through the ufuai courfe of the fciences, he applied himfelf to the lludy of the Civil Law, in which he took the de- gree of Dodor, before he was thirty years of age, a thing then uncommon. On the 8th of December^ J 328, he was collated to the Archdeaconry of Nor- wich. Soon after tliis, he went and lludied at Rome^ for his further improvement ; and fo diflinguiihed him- felf by his knowledge and examplary behaviour, that he was promoted by the Pope to the place of Auditor ©f his palace^ He was like wife advanced by him to THE NORFOLK TOUR. iz; the Deanery of Lincoln ; and lb great an opinion had he of his prudence and capacity, that he fent him twice as his Nuncio, to endeavour to procure a peace between Edward IIL King of England, and the King of France. Upon the death of Anthony de Beck, Bilhop of Norwich, the Pope, by his ufurped provifi- onal power^ conferred that Bifhoprick upon him, on the 23d of January 1343, and confccrated him with his own hands. He was confirmed the 23d of June 1344. Being inverted with that great dignity, here- turned into his native country after many years ab- fence ; and lived in a regular, and v^ithal in a gene- rous and hofpitable manner. Of Pope Clement VI, he obtained for himfelf and fuccelTors, the firil fruits of all vacant livings within his diocefe ; v/hich occa- fioned frequent difputes between himfelf and his cler- gy. In the year .1347 he founded Trinity-hall,- in Cambridge, for the ftudy of the Civil and Canon Laws : and another Hall dedicated to the Annunciation of the Virgin Mary, for the ftudy of Philoibphy and Divinity. Being a perfon of great wifdom, eloquent, and of a fine addrefs^ he was often employed by the King and Parliament in affairs of the higheft im- portance ; and particularly was at the head of feveral embaiTies, fent on purpofe to determine the great dif- ferences between the Crowns of England and France. In 1354, he was, by order of Parliament difpatched to the Court of Rome, with Henry, Duke of Lan- cafter, and others ; to treat (in the Pope's prefence) of a peace, then in agitation between the two Crowns abovementioned. This journey proved fatal to him ; for he died at Avignon, where. the Pope then refided, N 2 on 12$ THE NORFOLK TOUR. ©n the 6tli of January 1364-5, and was buried with great folemnity in the cathedral church, near the Pope's palace in that chy. With regard to his per- fon, we are told that he was of an agreeable counte- nance, tall, handfome, and well made. He was like- wife a man of fpirit, juUke, and piety, punctual in the difcharge of his duty, a great lover and promoter of learning, and of a friendly and compafTionate difpoH- tion. But he was a Hout defender of his rights, and would not fuffer himfelf to be injured, or impofed upon, or his dignity infulted by any one, may be in- ferred from the following anecdote, which our hiHo- rians relate of him : Lord Morley having killed fome of the Biihop^s deer, infringed upon his manors, and abufed the fervants who oppofed him, was obliged to do pennance by walking through the flreets of the city, with a wax candle of fix pounds weight in his hand, and kneel down before the Bifhop in the cathedral to afk his pardon, although the King had fent an exprefs order to the contrary. He beflowed on the great altar of his Cathedral two images of the Holy Trinity, the one a large one, is a fhrine made of folid filver gilt, of great value, the 0ther a fmall one, with reliques of twenty pounds weight. While he was Biftiop there was fuch a dreadful plague in England, that it fcarcely left a tenth part of the inhabitants living. And the Chronicle of Nor- wich fays, that from the firll of January to the iirfl of July in the year 1348-9, fifty-feyen thoufand three hundred and feventy-four perfons (befides eccleiiailics and THE NORFOLK TOUR. 129 and beggars) died in the county of Norfolk only. This feems in fome meafure to be confirmed by the Bifhop's having inltituted and collated"850 perfons to benificcs vacant at that time. MATTHEW PARKER, the fecond Proteftant Archbilhop of Canterbury, born Auguft 6, 1504, was the fon of a tradefman in Norwich : His faiher dying when he was but twelve years of age, his mother took particular care of his education, and in 1520, he was admitted a fludent in Corpus Chriili college, Cam- bridge, of which fociety he was eleded fellow, in the beginning of September 1520, in the feventeenth year of his age, and became chaplain to Anne Boleyn, whom he attended to the fcaffbld, and received par- ticular inftrudions from her 'Vto fee that her daugh- ter Eliza^b^th was brought up in the fear of God." He was a zealous promoter of the Reformation in the reign of Edward VI. vAio promoted him to the Deanery of Lincoln ; he was obliged to abfcond during the reign of Qneen Mary ; but on the acceffion of Eliza-^ beth was advanced to the Archbifhoprick of Canter- bury, which he held till his death ; which happened at his palace in Lambeth, May 17, 1575. Parker being placed at the head of the church, and knov/ing that he fhould have all the art of the PapiUs to contend with, took care to have the Sees fiHed with the moH learned and worthy menj and the Univer- fities put under fiich regulations as fnould prevent Pa- pifts fettling there. He was at great expence in re- building his palace at Canterbury, and founded a Free-fchool at Rochdale in Lancaililre. It was by his interefl chiefly that the great E^-gH^i Bible, coin- N 3 racrJ.y 130 THE NORFOLK TOUR. monly called the Bifliop's Bible, was firil trranflated from the Hebrew and Greek in 1568, the former one having been moftly from the Latin of Erafmus, It is in one volume folio, on royal paper, and a mod beautiful Englifli Black Letter, embellilhed with feve- ral cuts of the moft remarkable events in the old and titw Teftament, and Apocrypha ; maps cut in wood, ^nd other draughts engraven on copper, particularly under the names of the books to the fecond part of the Bible, beginning with Jolhua, is a fine print of the Earl of Leicefter, a half length in armour, holding a truncheon in his left hand» At the beginning of the firil pfalm, in the place of the initial letter is a cop- per-plate print of Secretary Cecil, in his gown and furs, holding in his left hand a Hebrew Pfalter open^ and having his right hand upon the letter B. ftand- ing before him. A co7nplete copy of this Bible is now extremely fcarce | there is one in the Public Library at Cambridge, and the compiler of the Norfolk Tour, has another, hut a litdc imp erf e^^ This Bible \v2.s in general ufe through England till the reign of James L when the prefent tranflation was undertaken by his order, although the pfalms of the fornicr Bible are fcill ufed in the fervice of the To Biiliop Parker we are likewife indebted, for a treatife on the antiquity of the Englifo Church, and the pubiication of four of our befc ancient Englifn Hiilo- rians ^ Matthew of Weftminfter, Matthew Paris, Affer's THE NORFOLK TOUR. Affer's Life of King Alfred, and Thomas Wall! ngh am. With all thefe fplendid qualifications, he has been blamed for his feverity to the Puritans, but whom would they not then have abufed ? Upon the diflblu- tion of Monarchy in 1649, Lambeth Houfe became the refidence of Colonel Scot, one of the Regicides, who turning the chapel into a hall or dancing-room, the venerable monument of the Archbifhop, Handing in the way, was totally demolifhed, and out of hatred to the memory of the corpfe there interred, and to epifcopacy, the body was dug up ; the lead that in- clofed it was plucked oiF and fold, and the bones were privately buried under an adjoining dung-hill, near an put-houfe where poultry was kept, where they con- tinued till after the Reiloration of Charles IL when Sir William Dugdale, the great Antiquary, acquaint- ing Archbifhop Sandcroft where they were depofited, he procured an order from the Lords to fearch for them, and having been found, they were decently de- pofited again near the place where the monument formerly ftood, over which is engraven thefe words. Corpus Matt HiE I Archiepiscopi Tandem HiC QuiEsciT. Archbifhop Sandcroft, alfo caufed the fame monument to be again ereded to his memory, v/ith a long infcription, in Latin, written by himfelf, JOSEPH HALL an eminent and learned divine, and fucceflively Bilhop of Exeter and Norwich, was born in Briftow Park, v/ithin the parifh of Aihby do la Zouch, in Leiceilerlhire, July i, 1574. He was educated in the Grammar School in his native place ; and at the age of fifteen fent to Emanuel College m Cambridge^ 232 THE NORFOLK TOUR. Cambridge, of which in due time, he became fellow* He read the rhetoric lediures in the public fchools, for two years with great applaufe ; and diHinguilhed himfelf as a wit and a poet, in this early period of his life, by the publication of his Satires in 1597. After fix or feven years refidence in college, he was prefented to the Redory of Hailead in Suffolk, fooa after which he married. In 1605 he accompanied Sir Edmund Bacon to the Spa, where he had an op- portunity of examining into the ftate and pradlices of the Romilh church. Having fpent a year and a half in thefe travels, he returned to London, and was made chaplain to Prince Henry, and foon after prefented to the Redory of Waltham Abbey in EfTex, which being convenient for his court attendance, he kept 22 years | during which time he was made Prebendary of WoU verhampton, and in 16 16 Dean of Worcefter, though lie was then abfent, attending the embafiy of Lord Hay in France. The year after he attended the Earl of Carlifle into Scotland., and in 16 iS was fent to the * Synod of Dort, but the air of the country not agree- ing with him, he returned home in about thi^e months ; however, before his departure, he preached a Latia fermon to that famous aflembly, which by their Prece-- dent and affiilants took a folemii leave of him ; and. the deputies of the States prefented him with a gold medal, having on it the portraiture of the Synod. This * Cambridge fent two Divines to the Synod of Dort ; the ether was the Mafter of Sidney; both Puritan colleges i his medal is there- in the public iibrai'v. THE NORFOLK TOUR. 233 This medal is now (1794) in the cuHody of Dr. Farmer, mafter of Emanuel Collecj-e, o Having refufedin 1624 the Biflioprick of Gloucefter, he accepted in 1627 that of Exeter, and in 1641 was tranflated to the See of Norwich ; but on December 30 following, having joined with other Bifhops in the proteilation againft the validity of the laws made dur- ing their forced abfence from the parliament, he amongft the reft was committed to the tower on the 30th of January 1642, but was releafed in June fol- iowing, upon giviug 5000I. bail, and withdrew to Norwich ; where he lived in tolerable quiet till April 1643. But then the order for fequeftering notorious delinquents being pafTed, in which he was included by name, all his eftates real and perfonal were feJzed and fold at public fale, even (fays Blomeiield) to a dozen of Trenchers, nor did they forget to lay their hands upon his Ecclefiaftical preferments, and turn him out of his palace. About this time he wrote his Treatife, intitkd Hard Pvleafare,'* in which he fays, They were *^ not afhamed after they had taken away, and fold all my goods and perfonal eftate, to come to me for afFefTments and monthly payments for that eftate which they had taken.'' In the fame Treatife he informs us that Sheriff Tofts and Alderman Lindfey, attended by many zea- lous reforming followers came into his private chapel, known by the name of Jefus chapel, and then iicuated on the North fide of the great altar of the cathedral, to look for what they called reliques cf idolatry, amongft which i|4 THE NORFOLK TOUR. which the painted glafs in the windows, reprefentin^ St. Ambrofe, St. Auftin, &c. were pointed out by them to Bifhop Hall, to be particularly obnoxious, as reprefenting fo many Popes. The good Bilhop to fatisfy their fcnjples, promifed to remove the caufe, and that it might be done with the leaft injury to the windows, he caufed the * heads of the pidures to be taken off, wittily obferving, that he knew the bodies ■could not oiFend ; but this partial compliance, not fatisfying thefe zealous reformers, they foon after to- tally deftroyed thefe beautiful windows. To thofe Ecclefiaftics whom the zealots of the day called delinquents, and whofe church preferments they feized, they pretended to allow a fifth of their reve- nue, but this pittance was never regularly paid, and often wholly v^ithdrawn. — Where power, fanaticifm, and malignity are joined, no man's fortune can be fecure for a moment. Thefe refined oppreiTors had a nick-name for the unfortunate people who wifhed only quietly to enjoy their own property ; they called thern ^eart malignatitSy and fleeced them of their real and perfonal Eftate, with as ittle ceremony as they plundered the clergy. Thefe opprefTions they called ih^ fpoiling of ihe Egyptians ; and their rigid feverity the domiuion of the EUSi \ they interlarded their ini- quities Vv'ith long and fervent prayers ; faved them- felves from blufliing by pious grimaces, and exercifed in the name of the Lord all their cruelty on men. Bifliop * This may in fome meafure account for our now feeing maa^ figures in painted glafs windov/s without faces, having only a i^iece qC white glafs to fupply the place^ , THE NORFOLK TOUR. 135 Bifhop Hall publilhed an humble Remonftrance in defence of Epifcopacy ; to which m 1641, five * Minifters, of whofe names the firft letters made the celebrated word Smedymnuus, gave their anfwer. Of this anfwer a confutation was attempted by the learn- ed Uiher, and to the Confutation, Milton publilhed a reply. In 1647 he retired to a little eftate, which he rent- ed, at Heigham, in the Weflern fubiirbs. of Noj wich, where he died September 8, 1656, in the Szd year of his age, and was buried in the church -yard there. In the chancel of Heigham church is his Monument, v/hereon is reprefented a golden pidure of Death hold- ' ing up an Efcutcheon in his left hand, with thefe words, Ferfol^it iff quietus eft, and in another Efcut- cheon, in his right hand, Debemus Morti nos 7ioJfraque^ and on the Monument this infcription ; Induviv2e Joseph I Hall Olim NonviCENSis Ecclefi^c Servi repofite vi 1 1 . Diss Menfis Septembris, Anno Domine 1656, Etatis fuae, 82, Vale Leftor, et ^ternirati profpice. Jln^i on the foot of the Monument ^ Joseph us Hallus olim humilis Ecclefias Servus. He was by learned foreigners called the Englifh Senaca, and is univerfally allowed to have been a man of great wit * Stephen Marfhali- Edmund Calamy — Thomas Yeung — Mat- thew Nevvcom^n— William Sparrow. 136 THE NORFOLK TOUR. wit and learning, and of as great meeknefs, modefly and piety. His works are many and voluminous, having printed fifty fmgle Treatifes, lince colleded and publiflied in three volumes, folio, in 1647, Bayle fays they are filled with line thoughts, excellent mora- lity, and a great deal of piety. In the beginning of his Satires he claims the honour of having led the way in this fpecies of com- pofition : I iirll adventure, follow me who liH, And he the fecond Englifh Satyrill.'' This afTertion of the Poet is notflridlly true ; for there were various fatyrical writings previoufly to his ap- pearance. But he was the iirft who diflinguiflied him- felf as a legitimate Satyrift, upon the clafTic model of Juvenal and Perfius, with an intermixture of fome ilrokes in the manner of Horace. Succeeding authors have availed themfelves of the pattern fet them by HalL The iiril three books were termed by the author toothle/s fatir.es. He has an animated idea of the dignity of good poetry , and a juli: contempt of poet- ailers in the diiFerent fpecies of it. He fays of him- felf, in the firll Satire : Nor can I crouch, and writhe my fawning tayle To fome great patron for my bell avayle. Such hunger-ftarven trencher-poetrie. Or let it never Live, or timely die. His firfl book, confifting of nine Satires, is chiefly levelled at low and abje£l Poets. Several Satires of the fecond book reprehend the contempt of the rich, ibr men of fcience and genius. We fhall tranfcribe the THE NORFOLK TOUR. ssy the fixth, being Ihort, and void of all obfcurity, and illuftrative of fome Englifh manners two centuries ago. A gentle fquire would gladly entertaine Into his houfe fome trencher-chaplaine : Some willing man that might inllrudl his fons. And that would /land to good conditions. Firft, that he lye upon the truckle-bed. Whiles his young maifter lieth o'er his head* Second, that he do, on no default. Ever prefume to fit above the fait. Third, that he never change his trencher twife. Fourth, that he ufe all common courtiiies ; Sit bare at meales, and one half rife and wait. Laft, that he never his young maifter beat. But he muft afk his mother to define How many jerks flie would his breech fhould llne« All thefe obferved, he could contented bee. To give five marks, and winter liverie. From this Satire it is evident how humiliating the terms were to which a private tutor was obliged to fubmit ; without much probability of emancipation by the falary of 3I. 6s. 8d. and a great coat. — The au- thor's charafteriflic of Satire is good. The fatire fhould be like the Porcupine, That fhoots fharp quils out in each angry line And wounds the blufhing cheeke, and fiery eye Of him that hears and readeth guiltily. The O 138 THE NORFOLK TOUR. The following Itroke upon falfe defcnptions of beauty is witty : Another thinks her teeth might liken'd be To two faire rankes of pales of ivory ; To fence-in fure the wild-beafl of her tonguC;, From either going far or going wrong. Upon the whole, thefe Satires fufhciently evince both the learning and ingenuity of their author. The fenfe has generally fuch a fifhcient paufe, and will ad- mit of fuch a punduation at the clofe of the fecond line, and the verfe is often as harmonious too, as if it were calculated for a modern ear : but the uncouth and antiquated terms and obfoiete words which fre- quently occur in this writer, feeni to require a fhort gloffary to explain them. In a catalogue of his works is a fatirical piece, en« titled M/Wza ^ cilier, &:c. tliat is The World different yet the fame.'' Bayle fays, this is a learned and ingenious fidion, wherein he defcribes the vicious manners of feveral nations ; the drunkennefs of one, the lewdnefs of ano -her, &c. and does not fpare the court of Rome. Gabriel Naude fays of this work, that it is calculated lefs to divert the readers, than *^ to inflame their minds with the love of virtue." Though the language of Bifhop Hall begins to be obfoiete, he may be ranked among the moil eloquent of our Englifh profe writers ; he feems to have fuc- ceeded in the arduous attempt of affuming the diiferent manners of Seneca and Cicero^, and paffages might be feledled from his writings, which are in the heft man- ner cf bo li thofe Romans. Yv^e cannot avoid obferviog in this place^ that an attention to the contemplations of Biiliop THE NORFOLK TOUR. 139 Bidiop Hall, is likely to be revived among critical readers, by a late detedicn of the plagiarifms of Sterne, by Dr. Ferriar of Mancheller, in which many of the moil iiriking pafTages in his writings are traced to this part of the works of our prelate, and to Bur- ton's Anatomy of Melancholy. JOHN COSIN a learned Bifhop of Durham, m the feventeenth century, v^as the eldefl: fon of Giles Conn, a citizen of Norwich. He was born at Nor- wich, November 30, 1594. Having completed his iludies at Caius College in Cambridge, he was ap- pointed chaplain to Dr. Richard Neille, then Bifnop of Durham, who pefented him to a Prebend in that ca-. thedral, and procured him the Archdeaconry of the Eaft Riding of the church of York. At the commence- ment of the civil wars, he was deprived of all his livings, being the firft clergyman who underwent that punilhment, and therefore went abroad, and fixed his refidence at Paris ; but returning in 1660, with King Charles 11. was promoted to the Deanery of Peterbo- rough, and afterwards to the Bifhoprick of Durham, which he held till his death, January 15, 1672, in the 78th year of his age, and was buried under a little Monument, like one of thofe ufually made in church» yards. His death deprived the wits and minor wri-- ters of much entertainment which they had promifed themfelves on his return to England. He was the author of feveral learned tracls, chiefly in contro- verfial divinity. Dr. SAMUEL CLARKE, avery learned and emi- nent Divine of the feventeenth and eighteenth cen- O z turies. 140 THE NORFOLK TOUR. tunes, was the fon of Edward Clarke, Efq. AldermaK of Norwich, one of its reprefentatives in parliament for feveral years, and was born Odober ii, 1675. He made fo rapid a progrefs in his iladies at Cam- bridge, particularly in the mathematics, that before he had attained to the twenty-fecond year of his age, he had a confiderable hand in introducing into the Univerfity the Newtonian philofophy. He afterwards applied himfelf to divinity, which he intended to make his profefTion, and was appointed chaplain toDr* John Moore, Biihop of Norwich, who gave him the Redory of Drayton, near the city. In 1706, he tranllated into Latin, Sir Ifaac Nev/ton's Optics ; and being recommended to Queen Anne, by his pa- tron the Bilhop of Norwich, v/as prefented to the Redlory of St. James's, Weftminfter. In 1710, he publlfhed a fplendid edition of ^Csefar's Com- mentaries, in one volume royal folio; and in 1712 appeared his Scripture Doclrine of the Trinity, which made fo much noife. He was afterwards engaged in a difpute with Liebnitz, concerning the principles of natural philofophy and religion ; and the letters which paffed between them on the fubjed, were pub) ifhed at London, in 1717. Upon the death of Sir Ifaac Newton, he was offered the place of mailer of the mint ; but this he refufed, as in- confiflent with his charader. In the beginning of the year 1729, he publiflied, in one vol. quarto, the firil * twelve * This is one of the moft magnificent books ever publifhed in Elngland, and a large paper copy of it is extremely sc arce^ THE NORFOLK TOUR. ^ twelve books of Homer's Iliad, with the Latin ver- fion accurately correded, and learned notes, dedicated to the Duke of Cumberland ; but before he had finifli- ed the reft, he was taken fuddenly ill, and died on the i-^th of May, in the fame year. Since his death have been publilhed from his original Manufcripts, by his brother. Dr. John Clarke, Dean of Sarum, ari Expofuion of the Church Catechifm, and ten volumes of his Sermons. His works, which are numerous, and of which thofe we have mentioned form but a part, will remain a perpetual monument of his learning and abilities. A pidlure of the Rev, Dr. Clarke is placed in the Royal paiace at Kenfington, under which is the fol- lowing Infcription : SAMUEL CLARKE, D. D. Redorof St. James's, Weftminiier. In every Part of ufeful Knowledge and critical Learn- ing, perhaps without a Superior ; In all united, certainly without an Equal. In his Works, the heft Defender of Religion ; In his Pradice, the greateil: ornament of it : In his Converfation communicative, and in an uncommon manner inflrudive : In his Preaching ani' Writing, flroag, clear and calm 5 In his Life, high in the Efteem of the Great, the Good, and the Wife ; In his Death, lamented by every Friend to Truth, to ViKtue and Liberty. He died May 17, 1729, in the 54th year of his Age. * The twelve laft books of the Iliad were publifhed 1732, m oru* volume quarto, by his fon Mr. S. Clarke, who alfo puhlifl-'.ed Ho- sier's Odyfley, in the fame manner, in two volumes quarto, 1740, S42 THE NORFOLK TOUR. JOHN KAYE, or CAIUS, the prime glory among the phyficians of Queen Elizabeth's reign, was born Odober 6, 1510. Like Linacre, he united the firll honours of literature with thofe of medicine. His great attachment to his fludies was manifefted by fome very early produflions, being chiefly tranfla- tions from Nicophorus, Calliftus, Chryfoilom and Eraf- mus, and which were performed by him at the age twenty-one. He ftudied phylic at Padua, under Johannis Baptifta Montanus, the moft eminent pro- feflbr of his time ; and whilft he refided in that city^ he lodged in the fame houfe with the celebrated ana- tomift Andrew Vefalius, whofe ardour he emulated in anatomical purfuits. On his return to his native country, he was incorporated Dodor of phyfic at Cambridge, and pradifed in his profeffion at Shrevvf- bury and Norwich, where his reputation fpread fo faft that he was foon called to London. Here he was fuc» cellively phyfician to Edward the Sixth, and the Queens Mary and Elizabeth. Being conftituted a fel- low of the College of Phyiicians, he was ever after the great ornament and fupport of that body. He pre- iided, for feven years, at the head of the college, and difpbyed, on various occafions, his zeal for the dig- nity and ioterellofthefociety. To Cambridge, where he had received his iirll: education, he was a fignal be- nefador, Gonville Hall, of which he had been a member, was ereded by him into the * College, which now goes by his name. Dr. Kaye was diflinguilhed as * T"he fquare added by Dr. Kaye to this College, was built in 357c, and coil him i^^Zoh a fum eq^ual to B>SBoL of the prete THE NORFOLK TOUR. as a critic, a linguill, an antiquary, a phyficlan and a naturalift; but it is only in the two latter capacities that he demands our prefcnt attention. For Galen he exprefled the profoundell efteem and veneration ; and he was a perfed mailer of that phyfician's volu- minous writings. With this prediledion, many new experiments or difcoveries are not to be expefted in Kaye's produ(n:ions. His firfl work, De Medendi Methodo," is of little confequence ; but the next of his medical performances is indifputable original ; and the fubjed of it forms a curious article in the annals of medicine. We mean his account of the ^' *Sweat- ing iicknefs," or as he himfelf named it, the Ephemera Britannica," publilhed in I ^56. Valua- ble, however, as this treatife is, not only as giving the fulleil narrative of fo iingular a diftemper, but as containing many judicious pradical remarks, it is far from being a perfe6l piece of medical writing. What is moft to be regreted is, that it affords but little light with refped to the lirfl rife of the difeafe. It may be added concerning the work, that it is a good fpecimen of the order y though not entirely fo of the manner, in which fubjecls of this kind fhould be treat- ed. As a naturalift Dr. Kaye fuftains a very refpeda- ble charader. He was the correfpondent and inti- mate friend of the celebrated Q[t{nQV, and drew up. for his ufe Short H'ftories of certain rare ani- mals and plants,'' vvhich were inferted in Gefner's works, and afterwards feparately publifhed, with cor- rcdlons * This difeafe broke out in 15 ^Tj at which time. Dr. Kayc lived in Norwich, and cbtainsd the greateH: reputation the ir :' ':':r m -which he treated it» 144 THE NORFOLK TOUR. regions and enlargements. At the requell, alfo of the fame great naturaliU, Kaye wrote a Treatife on Britiifh Dogs," in a method fo judicious, that Mr. Pennant has inferted the whole piece in his Britifh Zoology." In the opinion of the fame gentleman, than whom none can be a better judge, all Dr., Kaye's other defc riptions of animals are proofs of his great acquaintance with this branch of natural hiftory. As King James was paffing through Caius College, the Mafter prefented him Kaye's hiflory of the Uni- verfity of Cambridge, upon which the King faid, give me rather Caius de Canibus," The firft of thefe books, amongH other matters, tended to prove the fuperior antiquity of the place, as well as the pre- eminence of its learned member^ over the Univej fity of Oxford ; and it remained uncontroverted for more than a century and a half, when in 1730, a perfon calling himfelf Thomas Caius, or Kaye, publifhed a work in two odlavo volumes, entitled, Vindicits An- tique Academic Oxcniei/Jts f^"* contra J. Caium. — The Cambridge hiftorian certainly wrote elegant Latin, and though his arguments might be controverted, the elegance of his language could not be denied, and asfuch the book is always valuable to a fcholar; but I never heard that the anfwer was worth any thing, till its fcarcity ftampeda value upon it. Dr. Kaye died at Cambridge, after having foretold his death, on July 29, 1573. in the 63d year of his age, and was buried in the chapel of his own college. The following (hort infcription was put upon his tomb : Fu 1 Caius, There THE NORFOLK TOUR. 145 There is a good profile head of him in Holland's Heroologia, fol. 183, and a catalogue of his works, amounting to 72 Treatifes, in Aikin's Biographical Anecdotes of Medicine, and Pitt's Engliih Worthies. WILLIAM CUNNINGHAM, M. D. was born in 1531, and in i^^g publiHied a book called the *^ Cofmographical GlalTe,'' a folio of about 2 50 pages, containing as the title expreffes, the pleafant princi- ples of Cofmography, Geography, Hydrography, or Navigation ; with many cuts neatly executed upon wood, particularly a portait of the author in his Doc- tor's habit, and a plan, or rather a bird's-eye view of the city of Norwich, as it was in 1558, and on the back, an explanation of the plan. The book, though fcarce, has long been ufelefs, and the plan is no other- wife valuable than as a curiof>ty, and being the firfl that was taken of the city. He appears to have writ- ten feven other treatifes, but dying at the age of 28, they were never printed. Sir THOMAS BROWNE, an eminent Englilh phyfician, and celebrated writer, was the fon of Mr, Thomas Browne, a merchant of London, defcended from an ancient and genteel family of that name feat- ed at Upton, in Chefhire. Fie was born Odober the 19th, l6o^, in the parifh of St. Michael, Cheapfide, in the cirty of London, and had the misfortune of lofmg his father in his minority, who left him how- ever a confiderable fortune, in which he was much in- jured by one of liis Guardians. He was firil fent for education to Wincheiler College, and thence removed to the Univerfity of Oxford, where he was entered a Fellow- 14^ THE NORFOLK TOUR. Fellow - Commoner of Broadgate's - Hall, foon af-. ter filled Pembroke College, in the beginning of the year 1623 ; took the degree of Batchelor of Arts, Jan. jr, 1626 ; proceeded in due time to his degree of Mafter of Arts, entered on the phyfic line, and pradifed that faculty for fome time in Oxford- fhire, which he quitted to accompany Sir Thomas Dutton, his father-in-law, to Ireland, hence he tra- velled into France and Italy, ftudied phyfic at Mont- pellier and Padua, at that time the celebrated fchoois of medicine ; and in his return home through Hol- land, took his degree of Do6lor in phylic, in the Uni- veriity of Leyden. He returned to his native coun- try in 1634, and the next year wrote his " Religio Medici," or at leall made the firll fketch of it ; an incorredl copy of which being handed about ia manufcript, without his confent, he publifhed an edi- tion of it in 1^4 3 --In 1636 he fettled himfelf at Norwich, and the year foUovving was incorporated as Dodor of phyfic at Oxford. In 1641 he married Mrs. Deborah Mileham, of a good family in Norfolk, and £ve years after publifhed his Treatife on Vulgar Errors.'* In 1655 he was chofen honorary fellow of the college of phyficians, as a man ** Virtute et Uteris ornatiffimus/* eminently embeiliflied with literature and virtue. In J 658 he wrote a difcourfe on urn-burial, toge- ther with the garden of Cyrus ; and in September, 167 I, received at Norwich the honour of Knighthood from Charles IL and died in the city, on his birth- day, Od. 19, 1682, in the77th yearofhis age,andwas buried in the church of St. Peter of Mancroft ; where, upon THE NORFOLK TOUR, 147 upon a mural monument, fixed to the South pillar of the altar, there a^e two infcriptions, one in Latin, the other in Englifn, containing leveral particulars re- lating to his life. By his Lady he had ten children of whom only one fon, and three datjghters furvived him. In his perfbn he wa<; of a moderate flatare, of a Wown complexion, and his hair of the fame colour. His pidure in the college of Phyficians, and the por- trait preiixt to lAs vvci ks fncw him to have been re- markably handfome, and to have poffefTed in a fmgular degree, the bleffing of a grave and yei cheerful and inviting countenance. As to his temper, it was per- - fe^ly even and free from pailicns : be had no ambi- tion beyond that of beiag wife and good, and no far- ther concern for money than as it was necelTary ; for otherwile he might certainly have raifed a very large fortune in the way of his profefTion : but his charity., generofity, and tender af^eftion for his children, to the €xpence of whofe education he would fet no bounds, contra'ded the wealth he left into a very mo- derate compafs. Hib virtues v^ere many, and remark- ably confpicuous his probicy fuch as gained him uni- verfal refpecl, as his benefxence rendered him gene- rally be.oved-: in refpecl to knowledge, he was ex- tremely communicative in his coa venation, and not- vvithilanding his rare abilities and edablifhed reputa- tion., wonderfilly rnoclefl. His religion was that of the OiUrch of England, in which he fhewed himfelf unafredeJiy humble and fmcere. As to feds in learn- ing he followed none, but thojagVt and wrote with the uuncil ireedom, iiluftra: ing .every fubje.dl he touched by 148 THE NORFOLK TOUR. hy fuch new and nervous remarks, as charmed every attentive reader, and has occafioned more care to be taken of the papers he left behind him, than has ufu- ally happened to the remains of learned men, a cir- cumfrance fmgular in itfelf, and which refleds on his memory the highefl honour. In 1684 Dr. Tenifon, (afterwards Archbifhop of Canterbury) publilhed a fmall volume of Tradls writ- Ken by Dr. Browne ; and in 1686 his works were pub- lifhed in one volume folio. In 1712 his Pofthumous works were publilhed in one volume o6lavo, contain- ing the antiquities of the cathedral church of Norwich^ An account of the Urns found at Brampton in Norfolk, 1667 , and fome letters between Sir William Dugdale and Sir Thomas Browne, &c. This was adorned by •feveral plates, and is become a fcarce book. His Religio Medici excited the attention of the public, by che novelty of its parodoxes, the dignity of fentiment, the quick fucceffion of images, the mul- titude of abflrufe allufions, the fubtlety of difquifition, and the ilrength of language. What is much read will be much criticifed, fays his Biographer, and the remark was particularly applicable to the Religio Medici, which railed the author many admirers and many enemies. It is not on the praifes of others, but on his own writings, that he is to depend for the efteem ofpof- terity ; of which he will not ealily be deprived, while learning (hall have any reverence among men ; For there is no fcience, in which he does not difcover fome fkill ; and fcarce any kind of knowledge, profane or THE NORFOLK TOUR. 149 or facred, abftrufe or elegant, which he does not ap* pear to have cultivated with fuccefs. Dr. Johnfon. BROWNE (EDWARD) an eminent phyfician the fon of the preceding, was born about 1642. He was educated at the Grammar School in Norwich, and in 1665 took the degree of Batchelor of Phyfic at Cambridge. Removing afterwards to Merton College, Oxford, he was admitted there to the fame degree in 1666, and the next year created Do6lor. In 1668 he vifited part of Germany, and the year af- ter Auftria, Hungary, and ThelTaly* and paiTed through Italy. Upon his return he pradlifed phylic in London ; was made phyiician to Charles II. and af« terwards in 1682 to St. Bartholomew's HofpitaL About which time he was concerned v/ith many other eminent men, in a tranflation of Plutarch's Lives, in which he tranfiated thofe of TliemiHocles and Serto- rius. He waa hrH cenfor, then eledt, and treafurer of the college ofphyficians ; of which in 1705 he was cho- fen preiiuent, and held thatoflice till his death, which happened in Augufl 1708, at his feat at Northfleet, near Greenhithe in Kent. He underilood Hebrew^ was a critic in Greek, and no man wrote better Latin^ High-Dutch, Italian and French, which he fpoke. and wrote with as much eafe as his mother-tongue ; phyfic v/as his buHnefs and to the promotion of that^ all his other acquifitions were referred. Botany, Pharmacy, and Chemiftry he knevv^ and pradlifed. King Charles faid of him, that he v/as as learned As *^ any of the College, and as well-bred as any at Court.'' He was married, and left a fon and a daughter. THE NORFOLK TOUR. Upon his return into England in 1669, he pub- Hflied the firll volume of his Travels, a thin quarto, with platens, in 1677 the fecond, and in 1685 anew edition of both in one volume, fmall folio, with many corredions and improvements. This work had a great chara£ler given it in tht Philofophical Trafijadions^ arid v/as received with univerfal applaufe, which, with- out doubt, it very well deferved. His fkill in natural hiilory, made him particularly attentive to mines and metallurgy. The account of the countries through which hepafTed, is written with an uncommonly fcru- pulous and exad veracity. JOHN SKELTON, Redor of Difs, a celebrated v/it and poet, was Poet Laureat to King Henry VIII. Erafmus called him the light and honour of Britifli learning. Wood fays his wit was biting, his laugh- ter opprobrious aud fcornful, and his jokes commonly fharp and reHeding. His propenfity to fatire created him abundance of enemies, amongft whom the Do- minican Friars and Cardinal Wolfey were the mofi powerful and irreconcilable. The Dominicans were very obnoxious to his fatirical pen, for their vices, and the Cardinal for his arbitrary proceedings ; and, Skelton^s foretelling Wolfey 's downfall, was fuch a crime as a proud cardinal could not forgive in a poor prieil, and accordingly Skelton was profecuted for keeping a concubine ; to which he replied. In his confcience he ever efteemed her for his wife, (which fne really was) tlio' he did not declare it, becaufe Forn:ication in the clergy was thought a little fm, and Marriage a great, one. 'He was forced to take fanc- t^ary in WeHmioiler Abbey, where he died June 29^ 1529. THE NORFOLK TOUR. ip On Monday March the 24th, 1783,- the Pageant of the Golden Fleece, or what is called Bishop Blaize, was exhibited by the Woolcombers, in a ftile furpaffing all former proffeflions of the kind in this city. The proceffion began at ten o'clock in the morning, in St. Martin's at Oak, and thence paffed through the principal Hreets of the city. The dreffes were ornamented with all the embel- lifhments that fancy and ingenuity could fuggeil:;, particularly the ihepherds and Ihepherdefies : — ^The characters were extremely well fupported, thofe of Ja- fon and the Biihop met with diftinguifhed marks of approbation, and the whole was condudled with the greated order and regularity. The GOLDEN FLEECE was borne in a grand palanquin, fupported by four champions, and guarded by HERCULES and ORPHEUS. JASON rode on horfeback in a failor's habit, attended by CASTOR and POLLUX, HYLAS, THESEUS, BIRITHOUS, PELEUS, TELEMON, and forty-three other Thef^ falianand Argive heroes, thefe Argonauts appeared in their proper drefles on horfeback. BiHiop BLAIZE. patron of the Woolcombers, was drawn in a phseton, or triumphal car ; the cavalcade was accompanied by the focieties of Vv^oolcombers in their different uni- forms, and a Shepherd and Shepherdefs to each fo- ciety ; with proper " bands of mufic, decorations j^f (lags, and other emblemetical ornaments, to complete the proceiTion, O R D E R 152 ORDER OF THE PROCESSION. FOUR TRUMPETERS. M A R S H A L - M A N. P E A C E. ORATOR. BANNER OF BRITANNIA. . E N D R P U M S T Y. F I F 1 E TWENTY ^ J j m # # I # # m ^ ^ ^ m # # # # # ^ # # # HERCULES. Lynceus. The G OL DE N FLE ECE, Zetes. Borne ona GRAND PALANQUIN by 4 Men. Calais. ORPHEUS. Castor. JASON DRAWN in a PHAETON Pollux:, BY FOUPv HORSES. STANDARD of the ARGONAUTS. ARGONAUTS, TiPHT. TWENTY m m # m # ARGONAUTS. MILITIA BAND, STANDARD of the CITY. TWO VERGER S. ORATOR. BISHOP'S CHAPLAIN IN A PHAETON AND PAIR. PAGE. BISHOP BLAIZE page. IN A PHAETON DRAWN BY SIX HORSES. S T A N D A R D OF the C I T Y. The BOOK-KEEPERS, SHEPHERDS and SHEPHERDESSES belonging to the difrerent Societies of Combers— -12 Companies, Seven Ccrjopsrnes on Foot.— Five Ditto on Horfeback, CHRONOLOGY O F REMARKABLE EVENTS IN NORWICH. 446 THE fonndation of Norwich. 575 The caflle firll built by UiFa King of the EaU Angles. 872 King Alfred in Norwich, and improved the for- tifications of the caftle. 912 King Athelilan in Norwich. 980 Norwich made a Borough, and governed by a Serjeant. 1004 Norwich burnt by Sweno, or Swain, the Dane, who then returned to his own country, ioio The Danes returned into England, fubdued the Eafl Angles ; and fettled in Norwich and Nor- folk in loi I . 1014 The Danes driven out of England by Etheldred. 1016 The Danes again returned under Canute, who in 10 17 became King of England, affigning Norfolk and Norwich to the cullody of Turkill, a Danifh Earl. 1018 The prefent caflle is fuppofsd to have been built ^bout this time, by King Canute, and repaired, ornamented, and the outworks added, by Tho- mas de Brotherton in 1 3 1 ^ . 1030 Norwich was a fifhing town, the ground on which St. Laurence church Hands being the ilaith. 1060 Norwich had 1,320 burgefles and 25 churches. 1 07 J William the Conqueror, gave the Earldom, city and caflle, to Ralpli de Waiet, who rebel- ling againfl his benefador, v>/as fubdued, and t .e city much injured in the contefT;. Q 1086 Nor- CHRONOLOGY of EVENTS-. io86 Norwich contained 1,565 burgefies, and 4^0 bordars, i. e. labourers. io§7 William Rufus having fuppreffed the rebellion of Roger Bigot, granted the city many pri- vileges. 1094 Herbert de Lofmga removed the Bifliopric from Thetford to Norwich, April 9, and in 1096, laid the firll Hone of the cathedral. 1 1 22 Henry I. being at Norwich, granted the citizens a charter, containing the fame franchifes and liberties as London then enjoyed. From this time the city was governed by a ProvoH, cho- fen by the King, and the government of it £rri fevered from the callle. 1135 ^i^g Stephen granted the cuilody of the cafde to Hugh Bigot. 1140 The Jews are faid to have crucified a child, named William, of 12 years old, and buried him in Thorpe wood ; the body was dug up by the monks five years after, and became famous for the miracles performed at it's Pnrine, by their pious frauds* 1 152 King Stephen made Norwich a corporation. I! 74 The cathedral damaged accidentally by fire, and the city plundered by the Flemings, who came to afTill: Hugh Bigot, in his rebellion againfi: King Henry II. I \ 93 King Richard I. granted a new charter, in which the people of Norwich were firft called Citizefis, ■ I2i6 Lewis, the Dauphin, having obtained a grant of the kingdom, from the Pope, took the caille^ and plundered the citizens, a la Frcmcoije, .1252 The city inclofed with a ditch. CHRONOLOGY of EVENTS. 1266 The difplaced Barons feized the caflle, plun- dered the city, and killed many of the inha- tants. 1271 The cathedral lleeple ftruck by lightning. A great flood. 1272 A quarrel between the citizens and monks, in which they alternately plundered andmurdered each other. From this time to the reformation, animoiities never ceafed between them; the ec- clefialllcs were often pillaged and perfonally abufed by the populace, and the purfe of peace- able citizens compromifed the diiference. lajS The cathedral was nniihed and confecrated on; Advent Sunday, by William de Middleton, the Bifhop. 1 2 io Confiderable damage done to the city and county by inundations and tempeils. 1285 The citizens obtained a new charter, but no ex- tenfion of privileges, 1289 On Wednefday after the feafl; of Epiphany hap- pened a flood, which ran over White Friar's bridge, and deftroyed feveral houfes. 1294 The city walls iirft begun, Finifned in 1319, or 1 320. 1296 Norwich firft fent reprefentatives to parliament 2 5 th of Edward I. 1297 The cloiiler began to be built. Finifhed in 1 3 15 A great dearth and mortality, fo that the living were fcarcely fufficient to bury the dead. 1328 A free trade for all Worfteds Manufa£lured in Norwich was granted : This may fliow how CHRONOLOGY of E V E N T Sv coniiderable the Manufadory of the city was^ even in that early period. 1336 This year is memorable for the great increafe of Worfted Stuffs, by a colony of Dutch, and Flemings, who were driven out of their coun- try by an inundation* This trade was further encouraged by Edw, III. prohibiting the ex~ portation of unwrought wool, and granting great privileges to foreign artificers ; and by a fumptuary law, the firit of its kind in Eng- land, ordering that none fhould wear any other than Englifli cloth, except the Royal Family, and thofe who could afford t0 fpend {O0I, a year. 3340 From February to Eafier following there was a public tournament in Norwich, at which King Edward 111, and Queen Philippa were prefent. In the fame year the gates and towers of the city v/ere fortified and made habitable. i 34.1 The caille became the public gaol for the coun- ty of Norfolk. 1343 A very high wind, by which the pafTage-bcat then coming from Yarmouth was funk near Cantley, and 38 perfons perifhed. 1348 The plague, deftroyed, it is /aid, above 57,000 people in Norwich. 1^50 A great tournament was held here, at which Ed- ward the Black Prince, and many of the nobi- lity were prefent. The city made a grand entertainment for the Prince and his retinue;^ . at the expence of 37L 45. 6d, 1361 A CHRONOLOGY of. EVENTS. 1 36 1 A great dearth, attended by a plague ; this v/as called the fecond peftilence. On the 15th of January the lame year, the tower of the cathe- dral was blown down, and falling upon the choir, demoliflied great part of it. 1369 The plague broke out and carried off great numbers of people. 11']'] The battlements on the walls and towers of the city amounted to 1630. — The inhabitants to 1 381 The rebels in Norfolk, amounting to 50,000 men, headed by Litefier, a dyer of Norwich, totally difperfed at Ncrth-walfham, by the troops un- der Flenry le Spencer, Bifhop of Norwich. 1383 King Richard II. and his Queen vilited Nor- wich, and were received with great pomp. 1390 A great mortality raged in Norfolk, and other counties, occafioned by the people eating un- wholfome food. 2403 A Mayor and two SherifFs appointed, infcead of the four BailiiFs. William Appleyard the firil Mayor. 14 1 3 The city fufcained great damage by xire. 1416 By the charter obtained this year, the mode of chuiing the mayor, fneriiTs, conLinion-council, &c. in the citv, was regulated. 1455 A llatute was made, limiiing the number of at- tornies to lix for Norfolk, fiX for SiifFoik, and two for the city of Norv/ich. In the preamble, an excellent reafon is given for the regulation. ^463 The cathedral confiderably damaged by iire,, 1472 In. this year, it is fuppofed, tlie day cf ele6l- CHRONOLOGY of EVENTS. ing the Mayor, was changed from the firfl of March to the firsk. of May, as it ftill continues. 1477 A plague throughout England, which, Holling- fhead fays, deftroyed more people in four months, than had been killed in the lafl 15 years war. S478 Another great peftilence began in September and continued till November following, in which time, Nevyle fays, there died an incredible number of people in the city. 1485 The kingdom was vifited by a new kind of dif- eafe, called the Sweating Sicknefs : fcarce one in a hundred efcaped the contagion, and great numbers died J501 John Rightwife, mayor, began building the crofs in the market, and linilhed it in 1503. It was taken down in 1732 by, it is faid, a Mr. Otherwifco 1507 April 25 and Juue 4, two fires, by which 718 houfes in the city were deilroyed, 1519 A great flood on St. Leonard's day, thence cal- led St, Leonard's flood. 1530 King Flenry VIIL was declared fapreme head- of the church ; and acknowledged fo by ad of parliament 1535, which gave to the King all abbies and monalleries, not having grants of above 200L a year value. 1531 The council chamber wat built in the mayoralty of Auguiline Steward, Efq, About this time feveral people were burnt in Norwich and other places for Lollardy* CHRONOLOGY of EVENTS 1539 The prior and convent in the precind, con-* verted into a dean and chapter, and made a body corporate ; and the precind, which till then made part of the hundred of Blofield, de^ clared to be part of the city and county of Norwich. I J44 The Mayor's feaft for the firft time kept in St. Andrew's Hall. 1549 Kett's rebellion broke out at Wymondham, July the 7th. 1551 The difeafe called the fwea ting licknefs^ broke out at Shrewfbury in April, fpreading by de- grees all over the kingdom, till Odober foU lowing. Jn London 960 perfons died of it in one week, and prodigious numbers in other places. What was very extraordinary, no foreigner died of it. 1558 A great mortality raged through the kingdom-; in Norwich 10 Aldermen died. [561 The Earls of Northumberland and Huntingdon, with many other ncbles an knights, dined with the mayor*, on the guild-day, in St. Andrew's Hall. 566 Three hundred and thirty Dutch and Walloons were invited to fettle here, where rhey intro- duced the man'jfaduring of bayes, fays, arras, mockades,. &c. In 1 5 7 1 their number had . increafed to 3,925, and in 15B2, to 4,679. 568 The well end of the guild-hall rebuilt. 569 The Earls* rebellion in No wich. C70 Printing firfc pracliled in Norwich. 1570 A- CHRONOLOGY of EVENT i^yo A great flood, from the feafon in which it hap- pened, called Candlemas flood ; it rofe confi- derrably higher than that of St. Leonard's Hood. The North fide of the city was totally overflown, and Fye- bridge broken down. The fame year JohnXhrogmorton, Thomas Brooke, and G. Dedman, were hanged and quartered at Norwich, for high treafon. 1574 Norfolk had 6,120 able men on the muiler-roli^ of which 5,630 were armed ; and Norwich had 2,120 able men, of whom 400 were armed. This enrollment was made when an invaflon Vv^as expected from Spain, by means of the boafted Invincible Armada.— There is reafon for believing that the county and city eould now raife 24,000 men on a fimiiar oc- caflon. 1575 The Dutch fettled here invented the manufac- turing of bombazines, for of which they ob- tained an exclufive privilege. 1578 Queen Elizabeth came to Norwich on Saturday the ^6th of Auguli, and ilaid till the Friday following, during which ihe and her fuite lodged at the Bifliop's palace, and were en- tertained with pageantries, principally allufive to the trade and manufaduresof the city. The Queen dined in public in the North alley of the cloiller. In the fame year, the Shire- houfe on the caille-hill was built. 1579 A plague in Norwich, of which 4,817 perfons , died, including 10 Aldermen, betv/een Aiigull 20, 1578, and February 10, 31579. This ter- CHRONOLOGY of EVENTS. rible fconrge, was faid to have been bronght here by fome of the Queen's attendants in the preceding year, 1582 The water was conveyed from the New Mills to the Crofs in the market. 1583 The plague broke out again, and eight or nine hundred people died of it. 1588 Another plague, but it did not rage violently. 1591 White-friars bridge, and ( fome accounts fay) Coflany bridge^ were built with free-ftone. In the fame year 672 perfons died in the city in lefs than four months. 1597 It was agreed, that no one lliouldfsrve the office of Mayor a fecond time, unlefs at a diftance of nine years from the iirft ferving. 1601 April 29, the cathedral fpire greatly damaged by lightning. 1602 Three thoufand and feventy-iix perfons died here of the plague. 1609 Sir John Pettus eredled the building over the fpring without Biiliop's-gate. — In the fame year a plague, tho' but few people died of it. i6ii At a public rejoicing on Tomb-land with fire- works, 31 perfons were killed by the crouds of people- 1615 A great flood on St. Andrev/'s day, thence cal- led St. Andrew's flood. 1620 The Boys Hofpital was begun, and 14 boys iiru: put into it. 1626 One thoufand four hundred and thirty-one perfons died here of the plague. 1629 A curious letter from Lord Pembroke, direded CHRONOLOGY of EVENTS, to the mayor and fherilFs, complains of the quality of the herring pies fenc to the exche- quer. — The herrings were not of the firft that were taken — the pies were not well baked — the herrings were deficient in number — they fhould be 120 hejrings, and five in every pye — many of the pies were much broken, &c. — Ccurtiers 7mght furely he better employed^ 1648 John Utting, efq. the mayor, paying little re- gard to a petition prefented to him by about i£;o of the ^i^^/y of the day, was fent for to London. He was a great favourite of the common people, who had like to have mur- dered the MefTenger. After he was gone, the mob went to the Committee-houfe, Hand- ing on the lite of the prefent Bethel, where the gunpowder was kept, and fet fire to 80 barrels, which killed above 100 perfons, and greatly damaged the adjacent buildings, 1654 An ordinance being publiihed for raifmg 90,000!. a month for the maintenance of the army and navy, the city and county of Norwich raifed 240I. and the county of Norfolk 4,6601. 1656 July 20 and 26. Two tremendous florms of hail, accompanied with thunder and lightning % many of the hailftones, meafuring live inches in circumference, deflroyed thevv'indows in Nor- Vv^hich and its environs, and whole iields of corn were burnt by the lightning. The lofs fuilained amounted to above 3000I. 1665 Two thoufand two hundred and fifty-one per- fons died of the plague, 1^71 King CHRONOLOGY of EVENTS, 1671 King Charles n. and his Queen, with the Dukes of York and Monmouth^ were fumptuouily en- tertained at the Duke's Palace, by Lord Flenry Howard. 1673 A great foow which laid upon the ground from February 24, till Ealler, and foddenly thaw- ing, occalioned a great flood, which damaged moil of the bridges in Norwich. 1696 A new regulation of the coin, and a mint fet up in Norwich. 1697 The water-works at the new-mills undertaken, and completed in about two years. I 701 A printing office opened in Norwich, by Francis B urges. 1706 Two great floods in Norwich in November. 1709 The New-mills re-built. 1711 The wherry in its paffage from Yarmouth over- fet on Ereydon, Odober 5, and 20 perfons drowned. 1712 The a6l obtained for ere£ling a workhoufe in Norwich. 1715 The artillery company of 100 men, firil raifed in Norwich. 1716 The gold chain given by Mr. Thomas Hall of London, to be worn by the mayor, coil I col. 1 IS. 1720 September 20. A mob in Pcckthorp, under pretence of deflroying callicces, was difperfed by the artillery company. 1)22 A great ilruggle of parties about the choice of a fnerifn The candidates were alderman Weld and Mr. Paul ; the latter fucceeded. CHRONOLOGY of EVENTS, 1725 S?. Andrew's hall opened as an exchange, but continued fo only one year. 1726 The Norwich tonnage ad took place May i. 1732 The (lone pillar called charing-crofs, and the market-crofs, taken down. 1737 Odober 4, a great part of the city flooded. 1738 The ditches on the Ibuth fide of the caftle-hili levelled ; ever fmce the cattle-market has been kept there, which within the lafl few years has greatly increafed. 1739 A deep fnow fell about Chriftmas, and remained upon the ground till March, when on the breaking up of tbe froU, a prodigious flood en- fued. This has ever fince been called the hard winter. — It's feverity occafioned fcarcity, and that produced riots, which were not quelled in Norwich without military afTillance, and the lofs of fix or feven lives. 1 741 It was ordered, that no foreigner, for the future be permitted to carry on any retail trade in the city, for longer than fiX months, v/ithout taking up his freedom. 1745 An artillery company raifed in Norwich, under the command of the Right Honourable the Lord Hobart. 1746 September 30. The Shire-houfe on the cafile^ hill bornt down. Re-^built in 1748. 1 75 1 Oclober 22. Bridewell and feveral adjoining hojfes burnt down. 17c 3 July 28. Bridewell greatly damaged by fire- 1754 Twelve do^en and fix ^eins of curious iiard^ even fpun crape yarn^ made by a wom^^n at Eafe CHRONOLOGY of EVENTS. Eall Dereham, weighed only i6 ounces and nearly 2 drams. 1757 The milicia ad: fixed the number of rnen to be raifed for Norwich at 151. And the county SoQ—total 960. 1758 January 31. The new theatre opened with The Way of the World.'* 1759 January 21. A violent hail ftorm, fome of the hailftones, or more properly pieces of ice, were two inches long, and weighed f of an ounce.--- The pageant of Biihop Blaize exhibited in Norwich. 11762 061. 22. A flood which continued to increafc for three days, overflowed the lower part of the city, and laid near 300 houfes, with eight parifli churches under water. It rofe 15 inches higher than that called St. Faith's flood in 1691 ; but not fo high as the great flood in 1646 by eight inches, or St. Andrew's flood in 161 4, by 1 3 inches. in^'^ Hackney coaches flrfl fet up in Norwich, by William Huggins. 1 766 The great fcarcity of provifions occaficned a riot in Norwich ; it broke out Saturday Sep- tember 27, about noon, and was not fuppreiTed till the following day at Ave o'clock, during which, part of the new-mills was damaged, and a large quantity of flour deflroyed there ; a malt-houfe vv'ithout King's-fl:reet gates was burnt down ; the furniture of feveral bakers de- moliflied, and many other outrages commit- ted ; when, the magiftrates and principal in- R habitant.^ CHRONOLOGY of EVENTS. habitants determining to repel force by force, attacked the rioters whilll: they were demolini- ing a baker's houfe on Tomb-land, and ef- fedually difperfed them. 768 Augull 2. A terrible thunder llorm ; the lightning fell on one of the towers between Brazen-doors and Ber-ftreet-gates, and a boy of feven years old was killed on the fpot.— Three hundred and eighteen freeholders for the county of Norfolk relided in Norwich. 772 June 2. A violent tempeft, in which the houfe now occupied by Counfeilor Cooper, in Bethel- Hreet, was much injured by lightning. 773 A dreadful thunder-ftorm which Lifted from feven in the evening, Auguil .13, till ten the next morning, but did little damage* 774. Jmie 17. Another thunder-ftorm, by which the church of St. Peter Southgate was damaged,. The fame year St. Andrew's -hall underwent a a great alteration : feveral houfe s,. the old gate- way and the wall next bridge-llreet, v/er e taken down, and a convenient opening left. 1779 The new-year was uiiered in with one of tlicj moil terrible ilorms of wind attended by thun- der and lightning ; in which the lead upon St. Andrew's church was rolled up, and many .other churches and houfes greatly dainr.ged. 17S3 The pageant of Bilhop BlaizvC exhibited by the Wool combers, March 24. 1785 On Friday the 23d of July, at half pafc four. Major Money afcended in a Balloon, from the public garden without St. Stephen's-gates, and palling overPakcfield. a village between yar- CHRONOLOGY of EVENT S . mouth and Southwold, was carried near {even leagues from the land before the balloon touch- ed the water, at about feven o'clock ; and af- ter beating about for four hours, was extricated from his perilous fituation by the Argus reve- nue cutter. 788 Part of the lower clofe was inclofed by Dean Lloyd, and a handfome garden made. 791 The refervoir for water on Tomb-land taken down. 792 Rocheiler-Iane widened, and a good carriage road made crofs the caftle-ditches, through what till then had been called the Griffin-paf- fage, into King*s-ilreet. 792 The gentlemens walk paved with ftone called Scotch granite. 792 & 1703- Seven of the gates taken down, and two openings made through the walls, one be- tween Ber-flreet-gate and Brazen doors, the other by chapel-field. 793 Between Saturday morning and Sunday night December 22, one thoufand feven hundred Turkies, weighing 9 tons 2 cwt. and 2 lb. value 6S0I. were fent from Norwich to Lon- don, in the various carriages ; and tv/o days after, half as many more. 1793 In September an American Aloe flowered in the hot-houfe of James Crowe, Efq. at La- kenham. In December the Hay-houfe in the market-place was taken down, and an under- ground engine, for weighing hay, conftruded upon the caftle ditches. ) 793 The new county gaol built. APPENDIX TO THE CHRONOLOGY. The following floryis fuch as frequently occurs in our early hiilories, and may ferve to amufe the reader, though not to inform the iludent of Natural Hif- tory. It feems to be the offspring of fidion adopt- ed by credulity. 1 107 Ralph de Goggelhal affirms a man-iifh to have been taken near Orford in Suffolk. As it had a human face and beard, it was prefumed that it could fpeak, and many tortures were applied to the poor animal to overcome its filence, but in vain. With equal difcernment, but lefs in- humanity, its captors took it to churchy where, as might naturally be expedled, ' it fliewed no * figns of devotion,' The diet which this tor- mented creature ufed was fifh, out of which it had previoufly fqueezed the moifture with its hands. One day, being negleded by its keep- ers, this ^ lufus naturae' found its way to the fca^ and was heard of no more. Bartholomew de Glanville v^^as Conflable of Orford Callle when this event is faid to have happened. 1243 The hofpltal in Eiiliopgate-fcreet, built by Eifnop Southfield. 12 73 The King took avv^ay the liberties of Norwich^ put down their bailiiis, and appointed gover- nors of his own for three years together, on ac- count of the late riot. 1286 The Jevv'3 fynagogue, on the hay-hill j Nor- wich, dellroyed. 1430 St. Peter's Mancroft church begun—finifhed ia 1 APPENDIX TO THE CHRONOLOGY. 1448 King Henry VI. came to Norwich. 1472 The commons of Norwich yielded to the fhe- riffs 30I. per annum towards their fee-farm* Edmund Stalie, being IherifF, kept his fhrie- valty at Trowfe. 1474 King Edward IV. came to Norwich. I4;6 King Henry VII. came to Norwich; alfo in 1498 with the Queen, and the King's mother* 1506 St. Andrew's churcli built. 1509 Great part of the cathedral burnt down. 151 1 St. Michael's Coflany church built by flierifF Stalham. 2 5; 1 5 The Queen of France and Duke of Norfolk came to. Norwich. 1517 Cardinal Wolfey came to Norwich ; alfo agaia with Queen Catherine, 1523, 152 2 Charles V. Emperor of Germany came to Nor- wich. 1523 Chriftian King of Denmark and his Queen, in Norwich. J 529 The Queen of France came to Norwich, 1550 The free-fchool purchafed of K. Edward VL 15^3 St. Stephen's church built. 1558 Nine perfons burnt in Norwich for herefy, 1592 A well built on the hay -hill 1599 This year one Kempe came dancing all the way from London to Norwich. 1608 The city library began. 1621 Ber-flrcet paved throughout. 1642 William Gofling, Efq. mayor of Norwich, car- ried prifoner to Cambridge, by Lord Grey^. where he was confined three months, for re- fufing to confirm the orders for raifmg troops for the parliament. APPENDIX TO THE CHRONOLOGY, 1643 The organs pulled down, and much other da- mage done to the cathedral. 1646 A plague in Norwich^ and fo great a flood Nov. 15, that boats were rowed in fome of the lower ftreets. 1647 The lead taken off theBifhop's palace and cha- pel, by order of parliament. 1648 Sir Thomas Fairfax came to Norwich. — Six men hanged for attempting to refcue J. Utting, Efq. the mayor, and blowing up the magazine of gunpowder. 1650 Twenty-four perfons hanged at Norwich, and other places in the county, for an intended infurredion in favour of K. Charles II, 1660 Sir Jafeph Payne, the mayor, knighted by Charles II. 1663 The Lord Henry Howard gave the city a filver bafon and ewer, worth 60L 1677 Seven aldermen difpiaced. 1681 The Duke of York came to Norwich. 1682 A number of French workmen driven out of the city by the populace, 1684 Thomas Berney, Efq. executed in the town» clofe, for the murder of Mr. Bedingfield. 1687 Ten aldermen, and nineteen common-council, difplaced. 1 688 The Duke of Norfolk, attended by 300 knights and gentlemen, rode into the market-place, and declared for a Free Parliament — Dec. 7 and 8, the mob deflroyed the catholic chapel at Black Friar's-yard, and pillaging many houfes be- ' longing to the catholics^ were difperfed by the trained - bands* APPENDIX TO THE CHRONOLOGY, 1689 The polis for flierifF chanced to be twice equals between Mr. John Drake and Mr. Roger Salter ; on the third trial, the fame day, Mr. Drake fucceeded^ 1693 Mr. Thomas Larwood, (a diflenter) fined five marks by the Judges, for refufing to ferve the office of ftieriiF, to which he had been chofen in 1692, leaving the court to fine him, upon his refufal to ferve if chofen again. =1697 A great flood in Norwich. 1698 Sir Henry Hobart killed by Mr. Le Neve.—- A great fnow ^£704 A great llruggle of parties about chufing an al- derman. The candidates were Mr. Thomas Dunch, and Mr. Benjamin Auflin : The for- mer facceeded. — Aa eledion for members of parliament came on the f^ime year, v/hen 'William Blyth, Efq. the mayor, was committed to the cuftody of a fergeant at arms, for fome irregular and undue proceedings during the contefi. £712 The fteeple of St. Andrew's-hall fell down^ Nov. 5. 1717 Two mayors of Norv/ich died within i o months. 17 30 Some labourers digging on moufhold heath, in the manor of Thorpe, difcovered the founda- tion walls of the church called St. William's in the wood, whi\:h were 33 inches thick. J 734 At the contefted eledicn for the county of Nor^ folk, 6,302 freeholders polled, which is the greatell number ever aiTembled here. on a fimi- lar occarfion. APPENDIX TO THE CHRONOLOGY. >S759 July 4 and 5. The Norfolk Militia marched from Norwich^ for Portfmouth, one batallion by way of Cambridge, the other by Colcheller, to London, and pafTed in review before his Majefty, thro' the palace yard at Keniington. 1788 In a colledion of Wild Beafts, exhibited at the fign of the Bear, in the market-place, a very large and beautiful Tiger broke loofe in the night ; and two fmail Monkies being left out of their boxes, he devoured one of them, with the collar and chain, which being unable to digefl, he died within a few days : the other Monkey, creeping into a corner, fagaciouily concealed Mmfelf by drawing a mat over his body, and defer vedly efcaped the imminent danger, A LIST OF THE MEMBERS OF Parliament for the City of Nop.wich from the Restora- tion to 1700. 1660 William Barnham, Thomas Rant, 1661 Francis Carey, Chriilopher Jay ; who dying, were fucceeded byW, Paflon, AuguHin Brigg?. 1678 William Pailon, Augufiin Briggs. 1679 Hon. WTlliam Lord Failon, Auguftin Briggs. i68i The fame. 168) Hon. Robert Pafton, Sir Nevil Catline, Knt. i6g8 Sir Nevil Catline, Knt. Thomas Blofeild. 1692 Thomas Blofeild, Hugh Bockenham, who dying in 1694, was fucceeded by John W^ard, 1695 Francis Gardiner, Thomas Blofeild, 369$ Robert Davy, Thomas Blofeild, 11700 The fame. THE NORFOLK TOUR. iji Seais and Principal Houjes in the County.'^ Miles from Norwich. Bayfield, Henry Jodrell, Eiq. 23 Bixley, The Right Hon. Earl of Rofebery. 3 Brooke^ Uoger Kerri Ion J Efq, 6 Bracon Afli, John Berney, £fq^ ^ 6 Beefton St. Laurence, Mrs. Prefton la Buckenham Houfe, The Ri^ht Hon. Lord Petrs. 25 Burnham, The Right Hon. Lord Camelford. 3^ Befthorpe, Vane, Eiq. I a. Beeil:ort, Andrew f-^ho Micklethwayt, Efq. 4 Cockley Ciey, John R, Da/hwood, Efq. aS Cromer, George Windham, Elq. 2» Cre0ingkam, The Right Hon. Earl Clermont, Ditchinghim, The Rev. Bacon Bedingfiel4, 1% Earfham, Jofeph Windham, Efq, I3 Elmham, Richard Milles, Efq. i% Eccles, Wilham Woodley, Efq. tj Eafton Lodge, S.r Lambert BlackweJl, Bart» ^ Gillingham, Mr. bchurz. 16 Geldellone, Thomas Kerrich, Efq, 14 Gunthorpe, Charles Collyer, Efq. a» Honingham, The Honourable Charles Tow nihcnd. 7 Hethet, Sir Thomas Beevor, Bart. 6 Hanworth» Robert Lee Doughty, Efq, I9 Hargham, Hugh Hare, Efq. iS Hey don, William Earle Bulwer, Efq, 14. Hedenham, Charles Garneys, Efq. Z2 Hillington, Sir M. Browne Folkes, Barti |S Heveringland, Wm. Feilowes. Efq. 9 Hil burgh, John Micklethwayt, Efq, %f Honing, Thomas Cubit, Efq. 14. Kirby Bedo , Sir John Berney, Bart, - % Letton, Brampton Gurdon Dillingham, Efq. 15 Lyndford, George Neithorpe, Efq. 117 Melton, S-'r John Lombe, Bart. 6 Merton, The Right Hon. Lord Walfingham 20 Narborough, Tyfon, Efq. 3a Nafton, William Mafon, Efq. 24 Oxburgh, Sir Richard Bedingfield, Bart. 33 Quiddenham, The Right Hon. Earl of Albemarle, 17 Rackhearh, Edward Siracey, Efq, 4 Rougham, Fountaine North, Efq. ftO Rifton, Edward Roger Pratt, Efq. 38 Shottefham, Robert Feilowes, Efq. 6 Scottow, Sir Thomas Durrant, Barti XO Saxlingham, The Rev, Archdeacon Gooch. 20 Shadwell Lodge, Robert John Buxton, Efq. aS Spixworth, Francis Longe, Efq. 4 Senham Lodge, Thomas Wodchoufe, Efq. 17 Stow Rardolph, Hare, Efq; 40 Snareh il, James c'ell, Efq. 30 ♦ Th^ Seats particularly defcribed in the book arc not infertew la this lill. 172 THE NORFOLK TOUR. Taverham, Miles Branthwayt, Efq. 6 Toft vve^, Stephen Payne Galway, Efq, 23 Thursfcrd, S;.- George Chadd, Bart. 26 WcftoDj John CuCccince, Efq. 8 Waxiium aii.i Vv of Itead, S^r Berney Brograve, Bart. 18 and 14 WrethaJTi, Wm. Clhouii;, Efq. 26 WoodL.,'n, Mrs. Suc'cling. 10 . Weafe ) i h m , W m . M afon, 3 u n . E fq . 2 8 Witton, Mils Noms 15 Weftacre High Koufe, Anthony Karrimond, Efq; 30 COSSEY-HALL. TKE feat of Sir William Jerningham, Bart. v.Uo lias made very fine improvements, raifed many beau- tiful plantations, arsd opened a view to the Hall upon the approach from Norwich, which Jias a plealing elFed : the winding of the river Wenfum at the bot- tcm of a dcHghtful lav/D, through the meadows, and vifible from all the plantations to a great diftance, forms once a ilriking and charming fcene. In every alteration made round CofFeyj Sir William has ihewn an elegant and fuperior talle in planting. The ruins and cottages in the plantations are weil fancied and happily difpofed ; there is a diftinguilhing neat- nefs and plealing combination of objeds in various points of view, which pervades the whole, and ren- ders the landfcape very delightful. From the Belle- View, at a fmall diflance from the houfe, you have an extenfive profpedl of the furrounding country, Nor- wich is very difdodly feeo. The country about Coffey Is finely broke into a romantic vale, the gentle afcent on each fide of which is beautifully dotted with wood. A flow, but clear brook meanders through one of the bell imagined parks in Norfolk. The houfe is an ancient building, of not very great extent, but it contains feveral good rooms, many paintings by eminent mailers, and an extenfive library of elegant and well-chofen books. HOUGHTON. THE NORFOLK TOUR. HOUGHTON. THE iirft appearance of this hall, the celebrated feat of the late Earl of Orford, built by Sir Rober t Wal- pole, is that of feveral very magnificent plantations, which farround it every way. In the road from Sy- derflone, they appear, we think, to the greatefl: ad- vantage ; they are feen to a great extent, with open- ings left judicioufly in many places, to let in the view of more diftant woods ; which changes the lhade, and gives them that folemn brownnefs, which has always a very great effe6l. The flatnefs of the , country, however, is a circnmftance, which inftead of fetting them off, and making them appear larger than they really are, gives them a diminutive air,] in comparifon to the number of acres really planted. For were thefe valt plantations difpofed upon ground with great inequalities of furface, fiich as hills riling one above another, or vail flopes Hretching away to the right and left, they would appear to be almoft boundlefs, and (hew twenty times the extent they do at prefent. The woods which are feen from the Soutk front of the houfe, are planted with great judgment, to remedy the efFecl of the country's flatnefs ; for rhey are fo difpofed as to appear one beyond another in different fhades, to a great extent. The whole extent of the building, inclading the colonade and wings, which contain the offices, is 450 feet; the main body of the houfe extends 166. The whole building is of flone, and crowned with an en- tablature of the Ionic order, on which is a baluilrade. .S At i74 'l^HE NORFOLK TOUR. At each corner of the houfe is a cupola furmounted with a Ian thorn. This flately ftrudlure was begun in the year 1722, and finilhed in 1735, during which inten^al, the founder continued prime miniHer of flate. In the houfe, you enter fijH the great hall, 2. cube of 40 feet, which, bad as the proportion is, is certain- ly a very noble room ; yet one would imagine the archited purpofed to deftroy the effed: of fo large a one, by flicking three quarters around it what is cal- led a gallery : It is a balcony pufhed out in defiance of all ideas of grace, elegance, or proportion. Op- polite the chimney is an exceeding fine call of the Laocoon. From the hall you enter the filoon ; which but for height, would be one of the iineil; rooms in the world ; it is 40 by 30, and 40 feet high, which is excefiively out of proportion. To the left you turn into a drawing-room, 30 by 21, hung with a yellow damafe. Oat of that into the blue damaik bed-chamber, 2;| by 2 f | ; then into a very fmall dreiTmg room, and next a fmall clofet, out of which you enter the library, 22I by 2 : |, which leads to the dining parlour, 30 by 21. and that opens into the hall ; fo one fide at the houfe is taken up with the foregoing apartments. The other fide of the faloon is another drawing-room, called the C. Maratt room, from having been covered with pidures by that maf» ter, 30 by 21 ; out of which you enter the green vel- vet bed-chamber, then a drelliRg-room, 2 if by li, then another bed-chamber the fame fize ; next the cabiriet^ 2 2| by 2},|, which leads into the marble parlour^, THE NORFOLK TOUR. 1.73 parlour, 30 by 21, and is exceedingly elegant, one fide being entirely of white marble, and thxis con- cludes the right hand lide, opening into the hall. Having thus ran through the rooms, the fitting up of which, for inftance in doors, door-cafes, windows, cornices, &c. is as magnificent as can be conceived, and in as great a ilile as any lingle room in England, The ccmm-on approach to the houfe is by tlie South end door, over which is engraved this infcription, Robertus ¥/alpoIe Has A^des Anno S. — md^ccxxii. Inclioavit ^ n rjo M y . a C ^CX^V-* Perfeeit, On the right hand you enter a fmall BREAKFAST ROOM, in which there are : i. A pi£lure of hounds, by WoQtton, 2. A concert of birds, by Fiori. 3. The Prodigal Son, Pordenone. 4. A horfe*s head, aflcetch, Vandyck, 5. A greyhound's head. Old Wyck. 6. Sir E, Walpole, grandfether to Sir Robert Walpole. 7. Robert Walpole, fon to Sir Edward, and father to Sir P.obert Walpole. 8. Horatio Lord Townfhend, father to Charles Lord Vifcount Townlhend. 9. Mr. Ha» rold, gardener to Sir Robert Walpole, a head, Ellis. DINING PARLOUR. In which there are feveral good portraits belonging to Lord Orford's family. HUNTING HALL. A hunting-piece. Sir Ro^ bert Walpole is in green, CoL C. Churchill in the middle, Mr. Thomas Turner on the one fide, by Wootton. l\vo Dogs. S 2 Through 276 THE NORFOLK TOUR. Through the arcade you come at the COFFEE Returning through the arcade, you afcend the great flair-cafe, painted in chiaro obfcuro, by Kent. In the middle four Doric pillars rife and fupport a fine caf^ in bronze of the Gladiator, by John of Boulogne, which was a prefe^t to Sir Robert, from Thomas Ear! of Pembroke. The DINING PARLOUR is 30 feet long by is broad. Over the chimney is fome fine pear-tree carv- ing, by Gibbons, and in the middle of it hangs a por- trait of him, by Sir G. Kneller j it is a mafter-piece^ and equal to any of Vandyk. King William, an exceeding fine fketch, by Sir G. Eneller. Mr. Locke, a head. — Carreras a Spanifh poet, writing, a half length, by Sir Godfrey Kneller* King George I. The LIBRARY ROOM, is zi| feet by 225. Over the chimney is a whole length, by Sir Godfrey Kneller, of King George I. in his coronation robes, the only pidure for which he ever fat in England. The LITTLE BED-CHAMBERR, is all wainfcot- ted with mahogany, and the bed, which is of painted tairety, Hands in an alcove of the fame wood. Over the chimney is a half length, by Dahl, of Catherine Shorter, firfl wife of Sir Robert Walpol^ j This is an e^ctreme good portrait. A portrait of Maria Skerret, fecond wife of Sir Ro- bert Walpole, three quarters, by Vanloo. The LITTLE DRESSING ROOM. A land« fcapje, by Wooton, in the ftile of Claude Lorrain. The THE NORFOLK TOUR. ^77 The BLUE DAMASK BED-CHAMBER, is of the fame dimenlioiis with the library, and is hung v/ith tapellry. Three landfcapes over the doors. The DRAWING ROOM. Thirty feet by 2?, is hung with yellow cafFoy. The ceiling is exadly taken, except with the alteration of the paternal coat for the ftar and garter, from one that was in the din- ing room in the old houfe, built by Sir Edward Wal- pole, grandfather to Sir Robert. Over the chimney is a genteel bull of a Madona In marble, by Camillo Rufconi. Portraits of feveral of Sir Robert Walpole's chil- dren. The SALOON is 40 feet long by 40 high, and 30 feet wide ; the hanging is crimfon flowered velvet, the ceiling painted by Kent, v^'ho deiigned all the orna- ments throughout the houfe. The chimney-piece is of black and gold marble, of which alfo are the ta- bles. In the broken pediment of the chimney fcands a fmall antique bull of a V enus, and over the garden door is a larger antique buft. On the great table is an exceeding fine bronze of a man and woman. The CARLO MARATTROOM, is 30 feet by 21 ; the hangings are green velvet, the table Lapis Laz'ili ; at each end are two fconces of maiTive filver. The VELVET BEDXH AMBER, is 2 if feet by 22 1, The bed is of green velvet, richly embroider- ed and laced with gold, the ornaments defigned by Kent ; the hangings are tapedry, reprefentiiig the loves of Venus and Adonis, after Albano, Alexander adorning the tomb of Achilles, by Le Mcr. S 3 A 1)8 THE NORFOLK TOUR. A fea-port, by old Griffier. A landfcape over the door. Ditto. The DRESSING ROOM, is hung with very fine gold tapeilry, after pidlures ofVandyck. There are whole length portraits of James I. Queen Anne his wife, daughter to Frederick II. Kiug of Denmark, Charles I. and his Queen, and Chriftian IV. King of Denmark, brother to Queen Anne ; they have £ne borders of boys and fefl-oons, and oval pictures of the children of the Royal Family, At the upper end of this room is a glafs-cafe filled with a large quantity of filver philegree^ which belonged to Catherine Lady Walpoie^ Over the chiraney, the confulting the Sibillin® Oracles, Le Mer. Over the doors, dogs and fiill life, by Jervafe. The EMBROIDERED BED-CHAMBER. Th«i bed is of the fineft Indian needle- woik. His Royal Highnefs Francis Duke of Lorrain, afterwards grand Duke of Tufcany, and fince Emperor, lay.in this bed, wiiich ftood then where the velvet one is now, when- he came to vifit Sir Robert ¥/aIpole, at Houghton. The hangings are tapeflry. Over the doors, two pieces of cattle, by Rofa di Tivoli. The CABINET, i-s 2i| feet by 22ihungv/ith green velvet. The MARBLE PARLOUR. One entire fide of this room is marble^ with alcoves for fide- boards, flip- ported with columns of Plymouth marble. Over the chimney THE NORFOLK TOUR. chimney is a fine piece of alto-relievo in flatuary marble, after the antique, byRyfbrack, and before one of the tables, a large granite ciftern. Sir Thomas Wharton, whole length, Vandyck, Two fruit pieces, Michael Angelo Campidoglio, The Afcenfion, Paul Veronefe. The HALL, is a cube of forty feet, withaftone gallery round three fides ; the ceiling and the frieze of boys are by Altari. The bafs reliefs over the chim- neys and the doors are from the antique. The figures over the great door, and the boys over the lefTer doors, are by Ryfbrack. In the frieze arc bafs reliefs of Sir Robert Walpole, and Catherine his firii: Lady, and Robert Lord Walpole, their eldell fon, and Margaret Rolle, his wife. From the ceiling hangs a French lullre. Over the chimney is a buil of Sir Robert Walpole, Earl of Orfcrd, by Ryfbrack. Before a nich, over againfi the chimney, is the Laocoon, a fine call in bronze, by Girardon, bought by Lord Walpole at Paris, and for which the Emprefs of RufTia offered the late Earl of Orford, 5000I. On the tables, the Tiber and the Nile in bronze^ from the antiques in the Capitol at Rome. Two vafes in bronze, from the antiques in the vil- las of Medici and Borghefe at Pvome. The builof a woman a mofc beautiful antique. The bull: of a Rom.an Emprefs, antique. On terms and confoles round the ball; are the fol- lowing bulls and heads ; " Marcus i8o THE NORFOLK TOUR. Marcus Aurelias, antique. Trajan, ditto. Septimus Severus, ditto. Commodus, ditto. Thcfe two were given to Gen. Churchill, by Cardinal Alex. Albani, and by him to Sir Robert V/alpole. A young Hercules, antique. Hefiod, modern. Baccio Bandanelli, by himfelf. Homer, modern. Fauftina Senior, antique. Jupiter, ditto. A young Commodus, ditto. A Philofopher, ditto, Hadrian, ditto. Pollux, ditto. Going from the faloon, down the great fleps, through the garden, you enter a porch adorned with bulls of Rome, by Camillo Rufconi. Minerva ditto. Antinous, ditto. A Fhilofopher's head, antique. Apollo Belvidere, ditto. Julia Pia Severi, ditto. Out of this you go into a vefcibule, round which in the niches, are fix vafes of Volterra alabailer. This leads into the GALLERY, which is 73 feet long, by 21 feet high; the middle rifes eight feet higher, with windows all round ; the ceiling is a defign of Serlio'^s in the inner library of St. Mark's at Venice, and was brought from thence by Mr. Horace Walpole, jun. the frieze is taken from the Sybils Temple at Tivoli. There are two chimnies, and the whole room is hung with Norwich damafk. It was intended originally for a green -hoiife ; but on Sir Robert Walpole's refign- ing his employmients, on the 9th of February, 1742, it was fitted up for his pidares, which had hung in the houfe in Downing-ilreet. The late Emperor of Germany, when Duke of Lorrain, being in England^ was entertained at Ilo'jgh- ton^ ^ THE NORFOLK TOUR. ton, with the mofl: magnificent repaft that was perhaps ever given in England, though there was not a fingle foreign diih in the whole entertainment, relays of hor- fes being provided on the roads, to bring rarities from the moil remote parts of the kingdom* The capital paintings which formerly ornamented this magnificent houfe, and which unqueilionably formed the firll collection in the kingdom, next to the King's, we are forry to obferve, were purchafed by the Emprefs of Rufiia, In 1779, for 45,500). The late Lord Orford gave Mr. Boydell permifiiori to take drawings of the principal pidures, which was executed by Mr. Farrington, jun. and engraved by the beft matters on 140 plates ; and there being fome- times two feparate prints upon one plate, the pidlures copied are about 200. This magnificent work was publifhed in 14 numbers, at two guineas each. The prints in metzotinto, by Mr. Earlom, are entitled to a high degree of praife. A print from the iinefl paint- ing in this colledllon, the Dodlors of the church, con- fulting on the immaculatenefs of the Virgin, was en- graved by Mr. William Sharp* As it would be ufelefs now to give fo full a defcrip- tion of thefe pidures ?^s appeared in the former edi- tions of the Norfolk Tour, we fhall fubjoin a cata- logue only, afiixing the price paid for each. A CATALOGUE of the HOUGHTON COL^ LECTION OF PICTURES, sold to the EMPRESS OF RUSSIA. A horfe's head, a fine fketch^ Vandyk, and a greyhound's. Old Wyck^ 50L il2 THE NORFOLK TOUR. The battle of Conflantine and Maxentius, a copy^ by Julio Romano, of the famous pidure^ by Raphael, in the Vatican^ 150!. Sufannah and the two elders^ Rubens, 150I. A laiidfcape, with figures dancing, Swanivelt, 30L Jupiter and Europa, after Guido, Petro da Pietris^ 40L Galatea, Zimeni, 40L A Rud of horfes, Wovermans^ 250L Venus bathing, and cupids with a car, in a land- fcapcj Andrea Sacchi, iSoL A holy family, Raphael da Reggio^ 70L A fine pidure of architedure^ in perfpedive^ Steeu- wyck, 80L A cook*§ ihop^ Tmhx$, %Qi^l Another cook's-iliop, Martin df Voi| who wai Snyder^' mailer, ?ooL A bacchanalian^ Rabens^ ^fol. The Nativity, CarlQ Cignani, 250I. Sir Thomas Chaloner, Vandyk, tool* ' Sir Thomas GreOiam, Antonio More, 40L Erafmus, Holbein, 40L A friar's head, Rubens, 40L Francis Halls^ Sir Godfrey Kneller's mailer, by himfelf;, 40L The School of of Athens^ a copy, Le Brun, 250]. • Rembrant's wife, half length, Rembrant, 300L Rubens' wife, a head, Rubens, 6q]. A man's headj Salvator Rofa, 40L Inigo Jones, a Iiead, Vaodyk, 40], Two pieces of ruins, Viviano, 40]^ Two daughters of Lord Wharton^ Vandyke 2O0L " . . , - -Th® THE NORFOLK TOUR. i8j The Judgment of Paris, Luca Jordano, a fleep- Ing Bacchus, with nymphs, boys and animals, it's companion, 500I. King Charles the Firft, whole length, Vandyk ; Henrietta Maria of France, his queen, by Ditto.. 400L Philip Lord Wharton, Vandyk, 200L Lord Chief Baron Wandsford, Ditto, 150L Lady Wharton, Ditto, icol. Jane daughter of Lord Wenman, Ditto, lOoL Chrifl baptized by St. John, Albano, 700I. The ftoning of St. Stephen, Le Soeur, 500I. The Holy Family, Vandyk, 1600L Mary Magdalen wafliing Chrift's feet, Rubens^ 1600I. The Holy Family, in a round, Cantarini, 300I. The Holy Family, Titian, lool. Simeon and the child, Guido, I 50L The Virgin with the child aileep in her arms, Au-^ guftin Carracci, 200L An old woman giving a bey cherries, Titian, looL The Holy Family, Andrea del Sarto, 250I. The aflumption of the Virgin, Morellio, 700L The adoration of the Shepherds. It's companion^, 6ocl. The Cycicps at their forge, L. jordano, 200I. Daedalus and Icarus, Le Brun^ i^'ol. Pope Clement the Ninth, Carlo Maratti, 250I. The Judgment of Paris, Carlo Maratti ; Galatea fitting with Acis, tritons and cnpids, it's companion, 500I. The Holy Family, an unfinifned pidture^ Carlo Maratti, Sol, The il^ THE NORFOLK TOUR. The Virgin teaching Jefus to read. Carlo Maratti^ 200I. St. Caecilia, with four angels playing on miiiical in- ftruments, companions to the former, 260I, The alTumption of the Virgin, C. Maratti, lool. The Virgin and Jofeph, with a young Jefus, by Carlo Maratti, in the manner of his mailer. Andrea Sacchi^ 150!. The marriage of St. Catherine, Carlo Maratti, lool. Two Saints worfliipping the Virgin in the clouds. Carlo Maratti, 60I. St. John the Evangelifi, it's companion, 60L A naked Venus and Cupid, C. Maratti, i ijol. The Holy Family, Nicholo Beritoni, Carlo's beil .fcholar, 200I. The alTumption of the Virgin, ditto, 8<5l. The pool of Bethefda, Giufeppe Chiari ; Chriil's fermon on the Mount, Ditto ; Apollo and Daphne^ Ditto ; Bacchus and Ariadne, Ditto, 450I. Apollo, in crayons, Rofalba ; Diana, it's compa- nion, Sol. A profile head of a man, Raphael , l OoI., A profile head of St. Catherine, by Guido, 20I. The birth of the Virgin, Luca Jordano ; and the prefervation of the Virgin, it's companion, 60I. The flight into Egypt, Morellio, 300I. The crucifixion, it's companion, 150I. Hercules and Omphale, Romanelli, lool. The Holy Family, large as life, Nicholo Pouirm, Sool. Rubens' wife, Vandyke 600I. Rubens* THE NORFOLK TOUR. Rubens' family, Jordano, of Antwerp, 400I. A winter-piece, Giacomo Baflan ; and a funimer- piece, by Leonardo Baffan, 200L Boors at cards, Teniers, 150L Chrift appearing to Mary in the garden, Pietro da Cortona, 200L The Judgment of Paris, Audrea Schiavene ; and Midas judging between Pan and Apollo, by Do. 60L Chrill laid in the fepulchre, Parmegiano, 1 50I. The adoration of the Magi, V. Brueghel, looL The Vrgin and the child, Baroccio, 50I. Naked Venus fleeping, Annibai Caracci, 70L Head of Doblbn's father, Bobfon, 25L St. John, a head. Carlo Dolci, 90I. Head of Innocent the Tenth, Velafco, 6o!, A boy's head, with a lute. Cavalier Luti, 20L Friars giving meat to the poor, John Miel. Its companion, 150L A dying olHcer at confeffion, Bourgognone, looL its companion, 50I. Boors at cards-, Teniers, col. Boors drinking ; its companion, Oflade, 3ol, Chrift laid in the Sepulchre, G, BaiTan, 40L Holy Family, with St. John on a lamb, Williberts, 40I. Holy Family, Rottenhamer, 40I. The Virgin and child, Alex. Veronefe, 40L Three foldiers, Salvator Roia, 50I. The Virgin, with the child in her arms, Moreilio, Sol. The Virgin, with the child in her arms alleep. Sebaftian Concha, 20I. T i86 THE NORFOLK TOUR. Edward the Sixth, Holbein, looL Laban, fearching for his images, Sebaftlan Bour- don, 2C0l The banqueting hoafe ceiling, the original delign of Rubens, lool. Six fketches of Rubens for triumphal arches, &:c. on the entry of the Infant Ferdinand of Auilria into Antwerp, 600L Bathilieba bringing Abiihag to David, Vander- werfe, 700L Two flower pieces. Van Huyfum, 1200L Chriil and Mary in the Garden, P. Laura, lool. The Holy Family, John Bellino, 60I. A landfcape, with figures, Eourgognone. Its com- panion, with foldiers, lOol. Two fmall landfcapes, Gafper Pouffin, 40L The Holy Family, Matteo Ponzoni, 160L The murder of the innocents, S. Bourdon, 400L The death of Jofeph, Velafco, 200I. Saint Chriilopher, Elfheimer, 50L Henry Danvers, Earl of Danby, Vandyk, 200L The apoilles, after the afcenfion, Paul Veronefe, 200]. The Do61:ors of the church, confulting on the im- maculateoefs of the Virgin, who is above in the clouds, Guido, 3,5001, The Prodigal fon, Salvator Rofa, i,8ooL Meieager and Atalanta, a cartoon, Rubens, 300L Four markets, Snyders. One of fowl, another of fifh, another of fruit, and a fourth of herbs, loool. Marcus Curti'is leaping into the gulph, Mola, 400I, Horatius Codes defending the bridge., lu com- panion, 400L THE NORFOLK TOUR. 187 A lionefs and two lions, Rubens, lool. Ajxhitedure, faid to be by Julio Romano, though rather fuppofed by Polydore, 30CI. An old woman fitting in a chair, Rubens. An old woman reading, by Boll, 20OI. Cupid burning armour, Elifabetta Sirani, Guido's favourite fcholar, 60I, The Holy Fnmily, a group of heads, by Camillo Procaccino, 250I. Anufurer andhiswife, by Qaintin Matfis, theblack» fmlth of Antwerp, 200L Job's friends bringing him prefentSj Guido, 200L Europa, a fine landfcape, Paul Brill, the figures by . Dominichino. Africa, its companion, 300I. Dives and Lazarus, Paul Veronefe, looL The expolition of Cyrus, Caftiglione. Its com* panion, 300I. The adoration of the Shepherds, old Palma, 250L The Holy Family, Ditto, 2O0I. A moon-light landfcape, with a cart overturning ; Rubens, 300L A nymph and Ihepherd, Carlo Cignani, 200I. Two women, an emblematical pidure, Paris Bour- don, 200I. Abraham, Sarah, and Hagar, P. Cortona, loool. Abraham's facrifice, Rembrant, 300L The old man and his fons, with the bundle of ilicks, Salvator Rofa, 250L The adoration of the fliepherds, o6lagon, Guido, 400I. The continence of Scipio, Nicholo Pouflin, 600I. Mofes ftriking the rock, Nicholo Pouffin, 9C0I. T2 The iSS THE NORFOLK TOUR. The placing Chrifl in the fepulchre, Ludovico Caracci, 30®!. Mofes in the bulrafoes, Le Soeur, 150], The adoration of the Magi, C. Maratti, 300I. Cows and fiieep, Teniers, i 50L A landfcape, with a cafcade, and fheep, Giifpar Pouffin, lool. Tke lail Supper, Raphael, 500L Solomon's idolatry, Stella, 250I. A fea port, Claude Lorrain. A calm fea by Ditto^, izool. Two landfcapes, Galpar PoulTin, 250L The JoGonda ; a Imith's wife, reckoned the hand« fomeil woman of her time. She was miflrefs to Fran- cis I. King of France, by Lionardo da Vinci, lool. Apollo, by Cantarlni, c^o). The Holy Family, with angels, Val. CaMli, zool. The eagle and Ganymede, Michael Angelo Buona- rotti, lool. The Virgin and child, Domlnichino, looL The falutation^ Aibano, 200L H O L K H A M, THE celebrated houfe of the Hon, Thomas William Coke, which may be fesn any day of the week, except Sunday, by noblemen and foreigners, but on Tuefday only by other people. It was built by the late Earl of Leicefter, and cannot be viewed with too msch at* tentlop. The center of this extenfive villa contains the principal or grand apartment, fituated in the middle THE NORFOLK TOUR. 189 middle of four coniiderable wings, that are joined to it by re^lilinear corridors. Under the bafement Hory are the cellars. Each wing has its refpedive dellina- tion ; one is allotted to the ufes of the kitchen, and all its offices, a fervants hall, and fome lodging rooms : Another is the chapel wing ; and therein are the dairy, wafh-houfe, laundry, and fome lodging rooms. At oppofite angles on the weflern quarter, are fituated the two other wings. One of thefe contains a com- plete family apartment. The other is wholly calcu- lated to accommodate company, and called the Hi-an- gers wing. The houfe may be faid to confifl of five qua- drangles, the center and the four wings ; not that they are fquares, but we ufe the term to give a gene- ral idea. Each of the two fronts thereof prefent a center and two wings. That to the South, and the grand approach, is as beautiful, light, airy, and ele- gant a building as can be viewed. The gilding of the window frames and fafhes of this front, done in 1777, by the prefent Mr. Coke, give^ it a magnif cent ap- pearance. The portico is in a fine tafce, and the Co-- rinthian pillars beautifully proportioned. This cen- tral front, in every reipedl that can be named, ap^ pears all lightnefs, elegance, and proportion : But when you advance near, yo i find no entran'^e to the houfe ; there are no Hairs up to the portico ; and this circumfcance, after fo fine an approach, and fo long feeing the portico, and expeding it to be the entrance, becomes a difappointment, and is a fault in the build- 190 THE NORFOLK TOUR. We have fpoken hitherto of the central front alone. The whole including the two wings, we cannot think fo perfedl ; for there appears a great want of unity* The feveral parts are not fo nicely connedled as to form one whole. The center muft be feen diftindl, each wing the fame ; and likewife the fmall parts, which join the center to the wings. Thefe are all dif- tin6l parts though joined together ; nor is there any fimilitude of tafte between the center and the wings ; all the pieces of this front are light and elegant to a great degree : But when conlidered as the conneded parts of one whole, the want of unity is ftriking. The center is uniform, and if we may be allowed the ex- preilion, elegantly magnificent. No building can deferve thefe epithets more than this ; but they can- not be applied to the whole front, becaufe the parts are not of an uniform talle, and the wings are at bell but light and elegant ; they have nothing magnificent in them : As to the joining pieces they are pret jy. The North front confills of one row of Venetian windows, over another of common faflies in the ruilics. This front is not fo pleafing as the South one, but it is by far more of a piece with the wings, &c. After venturing thefe criticifms upon the fronts of Holkham, common candour obliges us to acknow- ledge, that the infide of the houfe, in point of contri- vance, is far preferable to any other we have ever feen ; fo admirably adapted to the Englifn way of living, and fo ready to be applied to the grand, or the comfortable ilile of life, that convenience feems to have had the iiril placein Lord Lelcefter's mind, when he adopted the prefent plan ; the general ideas of which THE NORFOLK TOUR. 191 which were firfl Uruck out by himfelf and the Earl of Burlington, affifted by Mr. Kent, and the defigns of Palladio and Inigo Jones. Mr. Brettingham, of Nor- wich, fuperintended the building. You enter what they call the *great hall, but what is in reality a palTage. It is called a cube of 48 feet ; but i2 very large and magnificent Corinthian pillars having their pedeftals relied on a marble palTage around it, and eight or ten feet high from the ground, the area at the bottom is but an oblong paffage, wal- led, in with Derbyfhire marble, and upon that wall are the pillars, fix in a line on each fide, and fix in front in a femi-circle around a flight of fteps up to the fa- loon door. The pafi^age or gallery as it may be cal- led, runs around thefe pillars, and both together take up fo much room, that all fort of proportion is loll ; to look from it into the area, it appears exadly like a bath. The South front was one proof, and this hall is another, that the architect's genius was not of the magnificent or fublime fi:amp ; for in both he aimed at greatnefs : The imprefiion of the front is varied and confequently weakened by the wings ; and the want of proportion in the hall, ruins the vafl efFe^l which would otherwife attend the magnificence of fuch pillars fo nobly arranged : b.ut in the elegant, the pleafing, the agreeable, his talle has never failed throughout * The idea of this Hali was formed from the example of a Bafi- lica, or Court of Juftlce, by Palladio, and exhibited in his defigns for Barbara's tranfiation ofVitruvius. The meafures forthepil- lars are taken from Degodetz's defigns in the Temple o£ Forttsn*; Virllis, at Rome. THE NORFOLK TOUR. throughout the whole building. The hall is entirely of Derbylhire marble. The faloon is 42 feet by 27, a proportion much con- demned, but it is by no means difpleafing. Some call it a gallery ; and perhaps a gallery is infinitely preferable to a cube, or to any proportion near a fquare enormoufly high. One of the fineil rooms in England, is the double cube at Wilton, which is more of a gallery than the faloon at Holkham, and yet no one ever entered it without being flruck with the jull- nefs of the proportions. — This faloon is hung with crimfon cafFoy, the pier-glaffes fmall on account of the narrowneis of the piers, each againft a pillar of the portico, but in an elegant tafte. The rooms to the left of the faloon are, firft, a drawing-room 33 by 22^ hung with crimfon cafFoy ; the pier glalTes very large, and exceedingly elegant ; the agate tables bea-utiful beyond defcription. From thence we entered the landfcape-room, which is a dreffing-room to the ftate bed-chamber; 24 by 2i, hung with crimfon da- malk. A palTage-room leads to the anti-room to the chapel, and then into the flate- gallery. The walls are. of Derbylhire marble ; the altar and all the decora- tions in a very fine taile. Returning to the landfcape- room, you pais into the flate bed chamber, 30 by 24, which is fitted up in a moH elegant tafte. It is hung with French tapefcry, except between the piers, which is by Mr. Saunders of Soho-fquare ; the colours of the whole exceedingly brilliant. The bed is a cut velvet, upon a white fattin. ground, and as it appears in common is a very handfome gilt fettee, under a ca- Eopy of ilate : The defign of the bed is equal to any thing. THE NORFOLK TOUR. thing in England. The chimney-piece remarkably beautiful ; pelicans in white marble. The next apartment is Mrs. Coke's, confifting of a bed-cham- ber, dreffing-room, clofet with books, and a fmaller one ; the bed-chamber 24 by 22, purple damaik, French chairs of ChiiTel-ftreet velvet tapeftry ; the chimney-piece a bafTo relievo of white marble finely polifned. The drefiing-room, 28 by 24, hung with blue damalk. So much for the fuite of rooms to the left of the hall and faloon. On the other fide you enter from the latter, ano- ther drawing-room, 33 by 22 hung with a crimfon flowered velvet. The glaffes, tables, and chimney- pieces are well worth your attention. From this you enter the * ftatue gallery ; which is without exception the mofl beautiful room we ever beheld | the dimenfions are to the eye proportion itfelf ; no- thing offends the moft criticifing. It confifts of a mid- die part, 70 feet by 22, and at each end an o6lagon of 22, open to the center by an arch ; in one are compartments with books, and in the other Hatues i thofe in the principal part of the gallery Hand in niches in the wall, along oae fide of the room, on each fide the chimney-piece. Obferve in particular the Diana, the figure is extremely fine, and the arms inimitably turned ; the Venus in wet drapery is like- wife exquifite ; nothing can exceed the manner in which * This bears a near analogy to that in the Eail cf Burlington'fi elegant Villa at Chilwick, which was evidently taken, tho' with foine variation, from the Marchefe Capri's, built, by Andrea PaU hdio; near the town of Vicenza, in Italy, 194 THE NORFOLK TOUR. which the form of the limbs is feen through the cloath- ing. The flabs are very fine ; the ceiling the only plain one in the houfe, the reft being all gilt fret- work and mofaic. The entrance we have already mentioned from the drawing-room is into one odlagon, and out of the other opens the doar into the dining-room^ a cube of 28 feet, with a large recefs for the lide-board, and two chimney-pieces exceedingly elegant ; one a fow and pigs and wolf, the other a bear and bee-hives, finely done in v/hite marble ; the nofe of the fow was broke off by a too common mifapplication of fenfe, feeling inftead of feeing. Returning into the ftatue gallery, one o£lagon leads into the ftranger's wing, and the other to the late Earl's apirtment : con- fifting of, I. The anti-room. 2. His Lordfhip's drelTing-room. 3. The library, 50 by 2 1 , and ex- ceedingly elegant. 4. Mrs. Coke's drefiing-room. 5. The bed-chamber. 6. A clofet with books. The rooms are about 2 2 by 20. The ftrangers wing con- fifts of an anti-ch?^mber---dre^^lng-room- --bed-cham- ber-— clofet with books bed-chamber drefiing- room — bed-chamber — dreffing-room. The fitting up of the houfe in all particulars not mentioned, is in the moft elegant tafte ; the Venetian windows beautiful, ornamented with magnificent pillars, and a profufion of gilding. But now, let us come to what of all other circum- ftances is in Hoikham, infinitely the moft ftiiking, and what renders it fo particularly fuperior to all the great houfes in the kingdom ^ con^venience. In the firil place^ with relped to the ftate apartments. From the . ' ball THE NORFOLK TOUR, ^all to the faloon, on each fide a drawing-room, through one of them to the ftate dreffing-room and bed-chamber : This is perfectly complete. Through the other drawing-room to the llatue gallery, which may be called the rendezvous room, and conn e6ls a number of apartments together, in an admirable man- ner ; for one odlagon opens into the private wing, and the other into the ftrangers on one fide, and into the dining-room on the other. This dining-room is on one fide of the hall, on the other is Mrs. Coke's dreffing - room, and through that her bed-chamber and clofets. From the recefs in the dining-room opens a little door on the ftair-cafe, which lead.> im- mediately to the offices ; and it fhould be obferved, that in the center of the wings, by the center of the home, by the faloon door, and behind Mrs. Coke's clofet, are flair-cafes quite unfeen, which communicate with all the rooms, and lead down into the offices. We fay donjon ; for the hall is the only room feen on the ground floor ; you ftep directly from a coach into it, without any quarry of winding ileps to wet a lady to the fkin, before Hie gets under cover. From the hall you rife to the falcon or iirll floor, and there is no attic. Thus there are four general apartments, which are all diilindl from each other, with no re^ ciprocal thoroughfares ; tbe ftate---Mrs. Coke's-— the late Earl's— and the Grangers wing. Thefe feverally open into what may be called common rooms, the hall, ftatue-gallery, and faloon, and all immediately communicate with the dining-room. There may be houfes larger and more magnificent, but 196 THE NORFOLK TOUR. but human genius can never contrive any thing more convenient. To give a proper idea of the plantations, park, and other obje£ls which environ this mujeum of tafte and elegance ; we fhall enter Holkham parilh by the road leading from Lynn to Wells, where twelve fmall clumps of trees furrounding the triumphal arch, firH: catch the attention, and give warning of an ap- proach. — Turning into a gate on the left, the road leads under the Triumphal Arch» This flru6lure is in a beautiful tafte, and finilhed in an elegant man- ner; it is extremely light, and the white flint ruilics have a fine eftecl.— -Crofling the Burnham and ¥/"al- fingham road, a narrow plantation on each Ude a broad vifto leads from hence to theobelilk, a mile and a half ; this plantation ought to be much broader, for you fee the light through many parts of it ; but it is only a Hcetch of what the late Earl deligned, and not meant as complete. At the bottom of the hill, on which the obelilk Hands, are the two porters lodges, fmall, but very neat flrudures. Rifing with the hill, you approach the obelifk, through a very fine plan- tation ; and nothing can be attended with a better efFe6l, than the vifcos opening at onee. There are eight. I. To the South part of the houfe. 2. To Holkham church, on the top of a fleep hill covered with wood ; a moil beautiful objetfl. 3. To the town of Wells, a parcel of fcattered houfes appearing in the v/ood. 4. To the triumphal arch, 5. StifFkey hills. The refl to diilant plantations. are by no means the tafte of the prefent age a THE NORFOLK TOUR. 197 age ; but fuch a genius as Lord Leiceller might be allowed to deviate from faQiion, in favour of beauty and propriety. Nothing can be more regular than the front of a great houfe, the approach to it ought therefore to partake of this regularity ; becaufe ftraight cuts are out of fafliion, it would be an abfur- dity to take a winding courfe to the houfe door, for the fake of catching obje£ls aflant, and irregularly : fuch management is to the full in as falfe a tafte, as regular cuts where the houfe is out of the quelllon. For inftance, thofe from the temple at Holkham, which, however, command exceedingly beautifal ob- jeds ; 1. Wells church. 2, Holkham Haith. 3. The lake in the park, which is feen from hence through feme fpreading trees, in a moil: pidurefque manner ; a planted hill, the fea. 4. Honcle -crondale. The objed mofl ilriking on the north fide of the park, is the lake, which extends 1056 yards, in nearly a fcreight line, covering about 20 acres, including a fmall iiland ; the ihore is a very bold one, all co- vered with wood to a great height, and on the top Hands the church. The.fiables, at the foath weii; extremity of it, are plain, neat and commodioas. The pinery and hot-houfe are equal to moil in England. The plantations in general are fketched with more talle than any to be feen ; in the number of acres many exceed them ; but they appear to various points of view, infi- nitely more ccnliderable than they really are. At the north entrance into the park they fliow prodigiouily grand ; you look full upon the houfe, with a very noble back ground of v/ood, the obelifk jiift above the center, with an extent of plantation on each fiJe that renders U the THE NORFOLK TOUR. the view really magnificent. Nothing can be more beautiful than that from the church ; the houfe ap- pears m the midH of an amphitheatre of v/ood, the plantations rifing one above another. Another point of view which we would recommend to a traveller's notice, is the vale on the eafl: fide of the park. The north plantation ftretches away to the right, with vaU magnificence, the fouth woods to the left, and join- ing in front, form an extent of plantation that has a noble eiFed. The houfe was began in 1734 by the Earl of Leicefler, but, he dying in 1759, it was finiihed by the CountefsDowager ofLeiceller, in 1764, who expended more than 1O5OO0I. upon it and the additional furniture. It is built with curious white brick, the center and wings extending 345 feet in length and 180 in depth. HoLKHAM Church flands on a hill north of the town, one mile from the fea, and is a noted fea-inark, commanding an extenfive profped on the Britiih ocean : It is dedicated to St. Withburga, and has a nave and two ailes v/ith a chancel, all covered with lead. At the fouth-weil corner of the fouth aile fcands a ilroRg four-fquare tower, embattled, having four bells, the lower part ferves as a porch to the church : the north and fouth ailes extend on each fide of the chancel, and ferve as butreiTes againfl ftorms from the fea. The call end of both theie ailes v/ere chapels, and are inclofed. The church was thoroughly repair- ed by the Countefs Dowager ofLeiceller in 1767, at the expence of lOooL The pulpit, defies^ commu- nion THE NORFOLK TOUR. 199 nion table and rails thereto are mahogany, the font is marble, and every part of the building within and without, is in the neateft tafle. PAINTINGS, ST ATUES, AND BUSTS, At H O L K H a M, GRJNB AF JRTMENT. HALL 46 by 70, and 43 feet high, finiihed with fluted alabaiter columns, of the Ionic order. STATUES in the Niches of the Colonade. Anto- nius ' Santa Sufannah Flora, or the Emprefs Sabina— — Bacchus' — Venus de Belle Feffe— — -Ju- lia Mammea — — Faun with the Nacchare «— - An-. tique Faun^ - Septimus Severas —Ifis^ or Prieil- efs of Ins ~— Apollo. SALOON. Twenty-eight feet by 40, and 32 feet high. The hangings of this room are of crimfon caf- foy, the column chimney-pieces are Sicilian marble ; and over the center door is a large marble bull of Juno. PICTURES in the SALOON. The continence of Scipio Africanus. The profile of the Spanifh Lady, wonderfully graceful and line. Scipio's, a very bad figure, his countenance without exprelfion ; but the difpofition of the group very well imagined. Gienfeppe Chiari* Over the chimney-piece, Tarquin and Lucretia. Proccchiano. Over the other chimney-piece, Perfeus delivering Andromeda. Andromeda's figure a very good one, and the whole piece well coloured. Gieufeppe ChiarL Coriolanus in the camp of the Volfci. The figure of U 2 the 200 THE NORFOLK TOUR. the old man kneeling before Coriolanus, and hiding his face is extremely fine ; but the figure of Goriola- nils himfelf, without dignity, haughtinefs, or any great expreffion. The wife leading her two children, and fmiling on them, forms a figure of no expreffion. The colouring however, and the back ground are good ; the difpofition indiiFerent, Pietro Ccrtcna^ Two female portraits over the doors. Carlo Ma-^ rati. Over the other £de doors are twohalf length figureso Agcftino Sylla, DRAV/ING ROOM« Thirty by 22, and 22 feet in height. Statuary marble chimney-piece, two mar» ble bulls upon the corn'xe of the chimney-piece ; one of the Emperor C aracalla, the other of Marcus Au-= reiius« Over the chimney is the Maclona in Gloria. P, d$ Fietris^ Two large bird pieces* HencUcooter^ A large landfcape. Claude Lcrrain» A ilorm. Nicholi PouJJlno Portrait of the Duke of Aremberg on horfeback^ very fine. Vandyk. Jofeph and Potiphar's wife^ a good piece. CarU ClgnanL Four plaifcer calls of heads over the doors, Fauf- tina, Pythagoras, Zeno, and Carneades. Above them are four landfcapes. Horixonti. VESTIBULE to the STATUE GALLERY. An o6tagon of 21 feet diameter, and 32 feet high-- — -An- tique marble bulls, viz. Adrian — Jolla Mammea. Julia of Titus Marcus Aurelias Galiemis, Getae • . ■ THE NORFOLK TOUR. STATUE G ALLERY including its two large end nicli€S> is in length 60 feet, 21 wide, and 23 in height. STATUES and BUSTS in the GALLERY. Two young Fauns— A fine buH of the elder Brutus— Se- neca, its companion A ftatue of Neptune- Ditto of the God Faunus— Ditto of Meleager. A llatue of the Pythian Apollo, Hands in a nich over the chimney ; a head of Sybele over that. A ftatue of Venus in thin drapery. In a larger nich contiguous, Hands the celebrated figure of Diana. The next is the figure of a Bacchus. A bull of Metrodorus, In the fmaller niches, the ftatues of Minerva and Ceres. A bull of Cornelius Sylla. Two tables of Alabaftro Peccorella. TRIBUNE of the GALLERY. A large ftatue of Lucius Verus, in a Confular habit. A ftatue of Juno. Agrippina, the wife of Germanicus, in the cha- radler of Ceres. Over the doors are two bulls ; one of the elder Em- prefs Fauftina, the other of the Emperor Philip. The whole length of the gallery, including the veftibule and tribune, is 10^ feet. GREAT DINING ROOM. A fquare of 27 feet, exclufive of its fide-board nich, v/hichis 9 feet by io, in the clear of the opening. Two chimney-pieces of a fimilar defign, compofed of Sicilian jafper truffes, and flatuary marble. 202 THE NORFOLK TOUR. The fide-board, table, frame and legs, are of por- phyry ; the table flab of Egyptian green marble ; be- neath a large bafon of mount Edgecombe red granite. Two bufts, one of Geta, the other of Marcus Aure- lius ; two large heads above the chimney-pieces. STJTE BED-CHAMBER APARTMENT. THE firfl: room from the faloon, is the flate anti- chamber. A large pidlure ; the flight of the Virgin and Jofeph into Egypt, The figures difagreeable, efpecially Mary's, who is a female mountain ; the drawing ap- pears to be bad. Rubens » A naked Venus ; the colouring gone off, hard and difagreeable. Titian, A landfcape. Nicolo Poujtn. Over the chimney the reconciliation between Ja- cob and Efau i dark and difagreeable. Piefro Cortona^ Lot and his two daughters, dark and difagreeable. Dominic hi no, A landfcape. Nicola PouJJin. Jofeph and his miilrefs ; not in Guido's bright and glowing manner i the colouring hard and difagree- able. Guido^ Over the four doors, portraits of Sir Lionel Tal« marfli, and the Poet Waller, ^ir Peter Lely, A Pope« Pomeranico. A Venetian lady ; colours gone. Titian, Two marble bufts ; one is of the veflal Virgin, the other of the younger Emprefs Fauflina. STATE DRESSING ROOM. A cube of 21 feet. A landfcape over the chimney, Claude Lor rain. Above THE NORFOLK TOUR. 203 Above, St. John the Bapcill preaching. Luca Giordano » On each fide of it alandfcape. Horizonfe, Below them two. Gafper FouJJin, A landfcape, Abraham preparing to facrifice his fon Ifaac, rather in a dark llile. 'Dominichino^ A rock, very fine. Sal^vafor Rofa, The pendents that hang on each fide. Lucatelli. A landfcape, St, John baptifing our Saviour, jP, Bologneje* A landfi:ape, it's companion ; fine. Gafper FouJ/tti. A landfcape, figures and cattle. Claude Lorrain. Above it, one. Claude. The pendents ; one a fea piece, the other a land- fcape ; both exceeding fine^ Fernet, The pair of landfcapes below the above. Claude Lor rain. The pendents below two pidlures. Ditto. In thefe landfcapes y Claude's elegant genius Jhines ^ith uncommon luflre. STATE BED - CHAMBER. 20 by 30, and 17 feet high, Tapefoy hangings ; Europe, Afia, Africa, and America. The four Seafons over the doors. Zucarelli. A flowered Genoa velvet bed of three colours. Over the chimney, Jupiter, carefilng Juno ; the colouring bad, her neck and face the bell, Ga^in Hamilton. Medallion of Julius Caefar. STATE BED-CHAMBER CLOSET, rjlyphe- mus and Galatea. Annihal Caracci. Piece of macaws and parrots. Rubins & Snyders. Two 204 THE NORFOLK TOUR. Two flower pieces over doors. FiL Lauri ^ Angela, A fmall Holy Family. Albano, Two altar pieces. Sshajlian Conca. The portrait of a woman. Leonardo da Finch A fmall portrait, in water colours^ of Lord Chief Jullice Coke. Cornelius Jan/en, Four landfcapes in water colours, viz. A copy of his Majefcy's C Lorrain. Ditto of a landfcape, from N. PoufHn. Gotipy* A copy of a landfcape from Rubens. Goupy. Ditto from N. Pouffm. Ditto, A view of Vignola's palace at Capraola. G. Or- chiali, A view of Rome from the banks of the Tiber. Do» The marriage of Pfyche. Ignatius. Continence of Scipio. Two landfcapes. Fillipo Lauri, A Saint bellowing the benedidion. Carlo Marat f. Bringing the Sick to a Saint preaching. Andrea Mantegna, Sketch of the Salutation. C. Maratt. Two landfcapes in bifter. Claude Lorrain, A waterfall. G. VouJJin, Nativity of the Virgin. Bi Rojfo, A battle piece. Bourgognone, Nativity of the Virgin, Frederico Barocci, Landfcape. Sal^uator Rofa, Sketch of two figures, P, Corae very water, while others gently retire from it, and only fliade the diflant hills : fometimes they open in large breaks and let in the view of others darker than themfelves, or rife fo boldly from the v/ater's edge, as to exclude every other view. About the center of the water, on the right of it, is a projeding hill, thickly covered with beech ; their flems are free from leaves, but their heads unite and form fb deep a gloom^ that not a ray THE NORFOLK TOUR. 2f9 of the fun can find admittance, while it illuminates the water, on which you look both ways. This par- tial view of the lake, (for the branches of the beech hang over the water, and form an horizon for the fcene) is llrikingly beautiful. N A R F O R D, THE feat of Brigg Price Fountaine, Efq. built and furniflied by the late Sir Andrew Fountaine, The houfe is a good one, but not the objedl of attention fo much as the curioiities it contains, amongfl which* nothing is more ilriking than the cabinet of earthen ware, done after the deligns of Raphael ; there is ar gr^at quantity of it, and all extremely iine* The co!- ledion of antique urns, vales, fphinxes, and other an- tiquities, is reckoned a good one ; but what gives more pleafure than the venerable remains of this kind, is a fmall modern ileeping Venus in white mar- ble, by Delveau ; which in female foftnefs and deli- cacy is exceedingly beautiful. The bronzes are very fine. Sir Andrew Fountaine was celebrated for his ele- gant tafte by Mr. Pope, and is faid to have pur- chafed for Sir Robert Walpole, fome of the finell paintings in the Floughton colledion. This feat is as deferring of the particular notice of a curious tra- veller as any in the county of Norfolk. From the appearance of the front of the houfe, which is not ex- tenfive, the obferver finds himfelf moll agreeably fur- prifed by the number of rooms, which are unexpe Hand unknown. On the left. Moles found by Pharaoh's daughter. Tintoretto. The crucifixion. Magnafci. A head of Rubens' wife« Rubens. The adoration of the Shepherds, in the Hile of Corre.gio, Ir. the middle, the afceniion. Solimeni. On the left, the converfioa of St* Paul;, on marbk% Pietro Cantajiaio THE NORFOLK TOUR. 225 Two old men. Quintin Matfis, of Antwerp. Two battle pieces. Burgognone. On the left, our Saviour curing the blind. Old Franks. A Colombine and Plerot. Vatteau. A landfcape. Wouvermans. A Madona. Carlo Dolci, A Flemifh merry-making. P. Angelles. The death of St. Sebailian. Tintoretto. On the weft fide, at the top, two fine landfcapes. Salvator Rofa. In the middle, our Saviour in the garden. P. le Genoefe, On the left, a Holy Family. Schldoni. On the right, two Cupids. N. Pouflin. A head of old Dobfon, on paper. Dobfon. On the right hand, Euridice wounded by a fer-* pent. Poelenburch. On the left, the feali: of St. Csecilia, on marble. Van Balen. Two boys heads, Francis Hals. Three children of the Earl of Dorfet's, H. Hol- bein. A Bacchanalian. Pelegrino. A facrifice. J. Ricci. DRESSING - ROOM. To the eaft, Galatea, Ricci. Two views of Venice. Cagnaletti. A Cupid. Giei'.feppi Chiari. The labourers in the vineyard, Dominlco Fetti, 'very fine* Over 22-6 THR NORFOLK TOUR. Over the cabm^ a lacrifice, N, Poullln. Its compaaion. Di to. Mofes found by P .arao rs daughter. Pelegrino, The LIBRARY, is 40 itet by 2 - ; in it are feveral antique Roman and Egyptian vafes, and portraits of eriiinent men. LIBRARY CLOSET. To the eafl, the middle pidure n St. GajcUia, a copy from a pidure, by Carlo Maratti, in the colfeclion of the Earl of Oriord, by J. Davi-, Eiq. of Watlington. Oa each fide, two pictures. Pietro da Pietris, A veital Virgin, J. Raoox. A Holy Family, N'-. Beretoni. On each fioe, two Floly Families. C. Marat t... Over the chimney are feveral antique bronzes. The Apollo with the golden drapery, is antique,, A'veftai Virgin. Carlo Maratci. R A I N H A M - H A L L, THE feat " of the Marquis Townfhend, was built about the year 1630 by Sir Roger TownHiend, Bart». under the dire(fiions of that excellent architect Liigo Jones. It is perhaps the mt^ll deiightfal fituation in. the county of Norfolk, and hai> been greatly improved, by the prelent noble poiTt'iTor. The building itfelf is rather in the fdle of an exceeding good habitable houle, than a magn'ficent one. The country around is -rich and charmingly c-.-]tirated-. The park and- woods, containing about 800 acres, are beautiful, and the lake below, peculiarly flxiking. Extenfive lawns,- md opening views into the country enrich the enliven- log; THE NORFOLK TOUR. 227 ing fcene, and difplay the bounties of nature in its mofl enchanting and luxuriant pride. There are feveral very valuab.e pidures in this houfe ; amongft the reft, the famous picture of Beli- farius, by Sah^ator Rofa : This pi6lure was given to Charles Lord Vifcount Townfhend, fecretary of Hate, by the late King of PrufTia : And Mr. Strange en- graved a much admired print from it. Mr. Arthur. Young fays, the pidure has, he thinks, more expref- iion in it, than any he had ever feen. Some connoif- feurs are of opinion that it is not the pifture of Bell» farius, but of Caius Marius. There are three flower-pieces and two landfcapes with bealh, ^ery fine, and many other paintings by Sir Peter Lely, Jervafe and Richardfon, but being chiefly portraits of Lord Townfliend's family, it is not necefTary to infert a catalogue of them here. Lady Townlhend's dreffing-room is ornamented with prints, lluck with much tafte on the green paper. MELTON - CONSTABLE, THE feat of Sir Edward Allley, Bart, was built by Sir Jacob Aflley, grandfather to the late Sir Jacob, about the year 16 So, and within a few years has been much ornamented and improved \ particularly the well front, but not being a very modern building, is flill rather in the ftileof a neat habitable houfe, than an elegant one ; the chapel, the grand Hair-cafe, the ceilings, and many of the rooms arc highly finilhed. Sir Edward has a fine colleftion of prints, many curi- 228 THE NORFOLK TOUR. ous and valuable books, with feme original paintingr by the bell mailers. The park contains between fix and feven hundred acres, is four miles in circumfe- rence, has lately been judicioufly ornamented, and the great canal made with uncommon dilHcuIty and much judgment ; which when properly united with wood will have a fine eife^l ; dill fomething more may be done to improve this charming villa. The temple, managery, church, porters ledges, llables, and belle- view, are feen to advantage in various diredlions as you approach the houfe from the fouth. In the managery Lady Aflley has a curious colledlion of birds. Half a mile frcm the houfe, in the road to Holt, Sir Edward has built a tower about forty feet high, called Belle-view : It is commodiouily fitted op, the apartments and furniture are elegant, and from the look out at the top, there is an extenfive profpedl of twenty-iive miles, of a rich w^ood-iand country, finely intermixed with villages and corn « fields.— Norwich, NorthwalHiam church. Lord Buckingham's tower. Holt, Cley, and the fea breaking through the hills at about five miles diilance, and much fuperior in point of view to any artificial piece of v^ater, all combine to render this profped one of the moft per« feft and pleafmg in the couiity. The country round Melton gradually rifes for fome miles to the houfe, from the top of which there is an, extenfive profpefl to the eail, fouth and well ; there is a ilair-cafe and door to the roof, which is of lead, and flat. lELBRIGG., THE NORFOLK TOUR. F E L B R I G G, THE feat of The Right Hon. William Windham, Is by nature one of the moir beautiful fituations in Norfolk, as in this park, which is v^ery exteniive, there la more uneven ground than in any other in this county ; nor has art been lefs bountiful : the woods are large and ancient. lu the cenier of the great wood is an irre- gular oval of about four acres, furrounded by a broad belt of iofty filver firs : on entering this oval, the eye is wonderfully pleafed, without at firll perceiving why it is fo ; we fuppofe it miiube from the contrail vs^hich this famenefs of green makes to the varied tints of the other forell trees, every where mixed in the reft of the grove, and which thefe lofty evergreens en- tirely exclude. From another part of the wood an exteniive prof- pe6l demands attention through a break in the grove, whence the uneven ground of the park is feen to the G^reateft advantage: Norwich fpire at full 18 miles dillance, terminates the view. From the upper part of the v/ood the fea prefents itfelf, but not in fo ilriking a manner as it will from the nev/ plantation, vvhich in a iqw years will conceal that pleafingobjed from the eye, and then at once dif- play all its av^'fal majefty. Mr. Windham's plantations are dellgned to anfwer two purpofe.r, to ornament and belt round his park, and to extend his great woodland fcene nearer the fea, towards v/hicb, at two miles diilance it forms a grand bulwark. 230 THE NORFOLK TOUR. bulwark, and from which he looks down an eafy de- clivity, over a bold ftiore, to an unlimited profpedon the German ocean. The general utility of incloiing commons and wafte lands has long been a fubjed of much debate. Mr. Kent is a ftrong advocate for it, and the iadls ftated in his account of the improvement made upon Mr. Windham's ellate, at Felbrigg, feem to juflify his con- clufions. He fays, the parifh of Felbrigg conliUs of about 1300 acres of land, and till the year 1771, remained time out of mind in the following ilate : 400 acres of inclofed, lao of wood-land, 400 of common-field, and 400 of common or heath. By authentic regifters at different periods, it appeared, that the number of fouls had never been known to exceed 124 ; which was the number in 1745 ; in 1777 ihey were only I 21 ; at this time (1794) they amount to 174." This rapid increafe Mr. Kent attributes chiefly to tlie recent improvements made in the pariih, by inclofing all the common-field land, and converting moil of the common into arable land and plantations. Farther to lirengthen his opinion of the benefits of inclofure, Mr. Kent remarks, that the pa- riih of Weyburn, confiiling of about the fame quantity of unenclofed common and common-fields, as Felbrigg did, has not increafed of late in population. The houfe, which has been confiderably enlarged by the Windham family, is elegant and convenient, and the .old ftile of arcbitedure obfervable in the South front, has been happily kept up in the hall, and m the library, which is well furniilied with the mofl valuable THE NORFOLK TOUR. 231 valuable authors, and contains a capital colIe6tion of prints, from the beft mailers. WEST W I C K, THE feat of John Berney Petre, Efq. is fituated with- in eleven miles of Norwich and three miles of North Walfham. It is defervediy efteemed one of the moil: delightful fpots in the county; the moll judicious and happy efforts of art having laid open and difplayed in the moil agreeable manner, the natural beauties of the place. The kitchen garden and hot-houfes are infe- rior to few in this part of the kingdom. The lawn and plantations are extenfive and beautiful. It was long thought impradicable to obtain an ornamental piece of water for the farther improvement of the fcene, on account of the elevated iituation of the place, and the nature of the foil : but that dilEcuIty is at lafl fully farmounted; Mr. Petre having been able by an ingeni- ous application of two Archemedean fcrews, to raife a Sufficient fupply from a large refervoir below thefum- mit of the hili. Thefe fcrews are worked by a wind- mi 11, and will difcharge about 500 barrels an hour when the wind is briik. The lower fcrew raifes the water eleven feet, into a ciilern, from which the other takes it eleven feet higher, into a channel made for the conveyance of it to its place of deilination. This channel winds along near three miles ; fome- times through hills, where it is 14 or 15 feet deep ; and fometimes over low ground?, where it is elevated to a connderable height above the furface of the earth— and at lail forms a f ne ilieet of water upwards of a mile in length, completing the beauty of the lawn and plantations. Z As THE NORFOLK TOUR. At a little dillance from the houfe is an ornamental building, called a Gazebo or Belle - view, ninety feet high ; a fquare pedefcal of 20 feet tapering round upwards, with a ftair-cafe in the iniide up to a lan- thorn at the top, faflied, and neatly fitted-up, whence there is a remarkable line profpq£l of a large extent of fea-coaft of near 30 miles on one iide ; and on the other a rich inland country, as far as the eye can reach; the whole in the higheft ftate of cultivation, and moil beautifully cloathed with v^ood. K I M B E R L E Y, THE firft feat here belonged to the ancient family of the FallolfFs. It flood in the weft part of the town, but Sir John Wodehoufe in the reign of Henry IV. demolifhed it, and built a noble feat on th« eaft part, where the family continued till 1630, and then Sir Philip Wodehoufe demoliflied it, and removed to the prefent feat at Downham-Lodge, which is jufl acrofs the river, dividing the pari flies of Kimberley and Wymondham, to which Dovv^nham is a hamlet ; the piece of water which lies in this parifn, and is there faid to contain about twelve or fourteen acres, is now extended into a noble lake of about twenty-eiglit acres, which feems to environ a large wood, or carr, on its weft fide, rendering its appearance to the houfe much more grand^and delightful; the rivulet that ran on its eaft ftde is now made a ferpentine river, laid out in a neat manner, and is the boundary to the park, on the v/eft and north fides, being above a mile in length : the declivity of the hill on the northern part is a fine lawn, with the ferpentine river at the bottom of it, which is fecn at one view from the grand entrance of the THE NORFOLK TOUR. 233 ihe hcufe, which was built by the late Sir John Wode- ho life, Bart. Great improvements have been made fince the de- ceafe of Sir John, by the late Sir Armine Wodehoufe, both in the waters and the park ; Sir Armine like- wife greatly improved the family feat, adding four rooms, one to each angle of the houfe, and made other CO n fi d e ra b 1 e a 1 1 e r a t io n s , Kimberley houfe is a handibme building, with con- venient ofiices detached, but not particularly an ob- jedl of attention to a traveller, tho' it contains feveral good rooms, and a coniiderable library. One piece of painting, an original head of Yandyk, by himfelf when young, is ^ery fine. But if a park profufely gar- niHied with a multitude of the moft venerable oaks in the county, and a beautiful piece of water, can give pleafure to the traveller, he will be highly gratified in viewing them at Kimberley. Sir Roger Wodehoufe was knighted by Queen Eli- zabeth, at Sir Edward Clere's houfe at Blickling, AuguH, 5578. And the Q^een on her return from Norwich, in her progrefs to Cambridge, on the 2 2d of the fame month, lodged at Sir Roger Wodehoufe's, There is Hill in the family a noble throne, which was eredled for the queen, in the grand hall at Kim- berley ; it is of crimfon velvet, richly embroidered with gold, having on it the arms of Wodehoufe and his quarterings, with th« fupporters, all in curious v/ork, and on the top are the fame arms impaling Gorbet. GUNTON-HALL, the feat of the Right Honour^ ^ble Lord Suflield, is not particularly calculated for the infpe<5lion of a traveller, but the offices added to Z z it 2 34 THE NORFOLK TOUR. it about ten years agO;, under the dire£lion of Mn "Wyatt, are faid to be fuperior to any in the kingdom o Not far from the houfe ftands the parilli church, which v/as re-btrilt by the late Sir William Harbord^ Bart, and has a handfome portico of the Doric order. L ANGLEY - HOUSE, the feat of Sir Thomas Beaucharnp Prodor, Bart, is a very handfome build- ing, with a park and extenlive plantations. RAVENINGHAM - HOUSE, the feat of Sir Ed- mund Bacon, premier Baronet of England, is a mo- dern built handfome houfe. In the north fide of the nave of Raveningham church, between the tv/o upper pillars, is the following carious infcription : Here lyeth buried under this ilone of marbyll : Margret Sumtyme the wifeofHumfry Cailyll. Late wife to R^uf V/illoughby : Squire for King Richard the thyrds body. The zere of God M : cccc. Ixxx & 1 1 1 : on the ix day of March departed Sche. For whofe Soule I befeech you hartely to pray : And devoutly a pater-Nofler & eve-mary to fay. At DENTON, three miles and a half from Ban- gay, Mr* Stackhoufe Tompfon, of Norwich, has a country houfe, with about 40 acres of land, laid out in a mofi pleafing tafie. There is a neat cottage, a gar- den, a rural Chinefe temple, a grotto, and many na- tural curicfities ; fo happily difpofed, and the whole is fo difFerent from every other place in the county, that it well deferves a traveller's notice. You have a pleafing view of Flixton Hall, the refidence of Alexander Adair, Efq. at about a mile's diftancCa fituated in the centre of QxtcnfivQ v/oods. THE NORFOLK TOUR. •WARHAM,-thefeatof Sir M. Browne Folkcs Bavt. is one of the moll beautiful iltiiations in Norfolk. The houfe ftands on the brow of a gently rifmg hill, backed to the north vvitli very line plantations of fifty vears growth. They have fomewhat the appearance of a crefcent form, fheltering from the north, eafl, and well, and opening to the fouth, downover a beau- tiful winding vale, and then commanding a rich va- ried profpedl of diftant inclofures. Some villages and churches, fcattered about the view, and a large though regular, water in the valley, all tend to make it cheer- ful, while the thick woods which crown the tops offe^ veral hills, and the groves that fink into the vale^ throw a piclurefque beauty over the fcene that cannot fail to llrike the fpedator* The view that breaks at once upon you on coming through the dark fir wood in the approach from Lon- don, is very beautiful. You look at once upon a range of lofty plantations around the houfe, whofe dark fhade forms a contrafc to the brilliancy of the landfcape, that fets it oir in the finell colours. In front you look upon various clumps, riiing boldly from the water, united in fome places with thick hedges, and in others broken by iaclofures, which fpreading over the hill to the left, the water is loll under a dark grove : the fields rife fo thick about it, as to unite v/ith a dillant plantation which crowns the hill ; a church is happily fituatedon the point of it, and beyond is feen a more diflant rich wood- land. Full 10 the left, is a large Danlfh camp* of Z 3 three * An encampment of Sweno the Dane. One of the Mcadc\vs ..lied Svvcno's Meadow. 236 THE NORFOLK TOUR. three entrenchments, which are quite perfedl. Turn- ing to the right, you look upon an inclofare which breaks into the plantations ; it is fringed with open wood that half obfcures the village, fcattered thickly with trees, and Warham fteeples, one peeping over the thick plantations near the houfe, and the other more open, compleat the view. As you advance through the vale in the way to the houfe, the fcenes change, but all are beautifuL Th« varied lawns, and hanging Hopes, crov^^ned in fom* places with woods, and in others broken by rich inclc-^ fares, and all truly pidurefque and beautiful. The ride from Warham to Stifkey, is through a much more pidurefque country than is commonly met with in Norfolk ; the road runs on the brow of the hill looking down on Stifkey vale. The vale, which is com pofed of meadows of the ^neft verdure, winds in a very beautiful manner from out of a thicket of woody inclofures, and retires behind a projedling hill, an humble iiream glides through it, and adds a cheerfulnefs, which water can alone confer. The hills rife in a bold manner ; they are bare of wood^ but that is coiiipenfated by the thick inclofures, in which the village is fcattered, forming with its church in a dip of the hill, and that of Blakeney above it, in a prouder fituation, a moft complete and pleafing pi dure. COCKTFIORPE, a village of only three houfes, lias furniihed three famous Admirals. Sir Chriilo- pher Mimrns, Sir John Narbcrough, and Sir Cloudef- ley Shovel. Near THE NORFOLK TOUR. Near Blakeney is another uncommon view, quite diiFerent from that at Stifkey : the road winds into a fequeftered valley fhut out from the fea, by a bold uncultivated hill. To the right the grounds fhelve from the road into a narrow vale. In this little wood- dy hollow is a village half feen among draggling trees : the fteeple is uncommonly pidurefque ; half of it is hid by a riling flope, and the church three fourths obfcured by a thicket of trees. The oppo- £te hill rifes very boldly ; it prefents a large inclo- fure, under the thick lhade of a noble fpread wood> which hangs to the right into another valley, but is loft behind a regular bare hill of a conic form, which rifes from the jandiou of the vales, in a very remark- able manner; and almoft fcreens a diftant range of rifing inclofure. Immediately ta the nght, is Hoping tra£l of fields, and above them v/ild ground, with a white tower rifing from behind it. The whole forms one of thofe half gloomy, and yet not unpleaf- ing fcenes, in which PoulTia delighted ; it is a fpot worthy of fuch a pencil. Sherringham Cliff is a very high fteep fhore : it looks on one fide fall upon the fea, and on the other over a various country abounding with inequalities of ground ; many hills fcattered widely about, nume- rous cultivated inclofiires, and fix or feven villages are feen. Sherringham is prettily overlooked, backed by a rifing hill. LYNN REGIS, 238 THE NORFOLK TOUR. LYNN REGIS, or KING's LYNN, CAMDEN was of opinion that Lynn derived its name from the Britiili word Lhyn, which means a lake, pool, or fpreading waters ; .but Spelman . affirms that the right name is Len, in Saxon, a farm or tenure in fee, and Len Epifcopi, as it was formerly called, meant the Bifiiop's Farm. It retained the name of Bifhop's Lynn till the time of King Henry VIII, who exchanging the monailery of St. Bennet in the Holme, and other lands, for the revenues of the Bifliopric, this town amongft the jeH^ came into his hands, and with the pofTeiror, changed its name to Lynn Regis. Camden fays that the town is not of any antiquity^ but fprung up out. of the ruins of what is called Old Lynn, or Weil Lynn^ which lies on the oppoiitefide of the river, Camden's opinion of this town's not being of great antiquity is probably right, but in uiying it fprung out of the ruhn of Old Lynn, or Weil Lynn, he is cer- tainly miilaken, it no wliere appearing that Old Lynn ever was any thing butwhat it now is, an inconfidera- ble village, which may have been the cafe with Lynn Regis, before the advantages of commerce were un- derfiood, by which it has gradually been rai fed from its primitive obicurity, to that of being the meli con- fiderable fea-port tcivn in the county, and inferior only to London, Brixiol, Liverpool, FIull, and New- cafile^ in En^jland, It THE NORFOLK TOUR. 239 It is a large rich, handfome and very thriving town, ilanding upon the eaftern bank of the Great Oufe, at about ten miles diilance from the Britifh ocean. It is one mile and a quarter long from the South-gate to the the Block-houfe, at Fiiher's-end, and about half a mile from the river to the eail-gate, which is the broadefl: part; it contains about 2,500 houfes and 12,000 inhabitants, is encompaffed on the land fide by a deep wet ditch and an ancient wall ; was formerly defended by nine baftions, and might now ealily be made a place of confiderable ftrength. It is divided by four fmall rivers, over which there are fifteen bridges. At the north-end there is a plat- form of twelve cannon, eighteen pounders, called St. Anne's - Fort, but having no cover for the men, it could be of very little ufe, if the town was attacked from the river fide. This town has been honoured with no lefs than fifteen royal characters ; but we fnall mention only thofe which more immediately apply to our purpofe. King John, after chafliiing the revolted Barons of Norfolk, afTembled his forces here in the fixth year of his reign, 1204, and during his flay, and on the petition of John Grey, Bifnop of Norwich, granted the town a charter to be a free borough for ever, and the Burgeffes to choofe themfelvcs a Fratovy or Fro- 'vojf, on condition that he fnould be fubjcft to the Bijbop, and take an oath yearly to that end, at the Bifhop*s palace at Gaywood, whence he was called the BiJI:cp's Man. At the fame time King John pre-- fented the corporation with an elegant double gilt embofled and enamamelled cup and cover, weighing 73 ouncecij 24^ THE NORFOLK TOUR. 73 ounces, and holding a full pint, which is well pr€* ferved, and upon all public oecafions and entertain- ments lifed with fonie uncommon ceremonies, at drink- ing the health of the King or Qi^een, and whoever goes to vifit the mayor^ drinks fack out of this cup. He alfo then gave them from his own fide, Wis f aid ^ a fword with a filver mounting, to be carried before the mayor; but as the charter dated Sept. 14. in the 6th year of this King's reign calls him Pr^po- fitus or Fro'vc.ft^ a title not clearly defined, it has been denied that King John granted the town a Mayor, bi>t that it had one in the laft year of his reign, is evident from his letters patent, dated June 7, 1216, direcied To the Mayor and good 7nen of Lynn. Bilhop Gibfon in his additions to Carnden cbferve?, that this fwcrd, which by the infcription, is faid to have been given by King John, was really the gift of King Henry VITi. after the town came into his pof~ feffion, and he changed their Burgeiles into Aldermen, and granted them feveral privileges. The charter granted by King John, does not mention the fword, but that granted by Henry exprefsly fays, ^* He granted them a fword to be carried before their may» or." A loofe paper of Sir Henry Spelman's dated September 15, 1630, fays, one Thomas Kenet, town» clerk of Lynn, aiTured him, that John Cooke, fvvord- bearer, in 15S0, went to Mr. Ivory the fchool-maf^er of the town, and defired him to compofe an infcription, to be engraved upon the plain hilt of the town-fword^ to this enedl, King John gave this f,vord to the pwn/' hereupoii he caafed the perfon who gave this THE NORFOLK TOUR. 241 this Information, and was then his fcholar, to write thefe words. Enfts hie Donum fuit Regis johannisy ^ajtio ipjtks Latere daium. In ENGLISH. Ki?2g John took this j<^K)ord from his c^ujn JiJe^ and ganje it to this toivn, which the Avord -bearer carried to Mr. Cooke, a Gcldrmith, wlio engraved it upon one fide of the hilt. If this ilory be true, the infcription of which the town fo much boafls is of no authority. On the. other iide of the hilt is Vi-vat Rex Flenericus Ocia^uus^ Anno Rcgeni jui xx. The Gentlemen of the Corporation infifl:, that the fword now borne before the Mayor, v/as given by Pving John, and has been ufed for that purpofe from the time of Henry III. and that when fome Kings have honoured the town with their prefence, the mayors themfelves have carried this fword before them ; and it is rc-inarkable, Kiys Mr. Mackerel], that in a window 011 th.^ north lide of r.he choir, near the altar of St. Nicholas chapel, the town arms and the fword are depided in glafs, and moil probably were f.xed there {qoxi after ereding the chapel and glazing the windows, which is uippofed to have been in the reign of Ldward III. betv/een the years 1326 and 1376, or about \ 50 years after K, John is faid to have given the fv^ord to the town. Upon the whole it is pretty clear, that the fword was given by King John, but whether from his own fide, and to be car- ried before a PfovoH: or a Mayor, mufl itill remain doubtful. 242 THE NORFOLK TOUR. f King's Lynn. Voltaire, in his Eflay on Univerfal Hiftory, vol. iii« pages 182 and 183, obfcrves, that the firft who certainly made ufe of the Compafs, were the Englifh, in the reign of Edward TIL What little fcience ilill remained was confined to Monafteries ; — and in a note by the tranflators, at the bottom of page 182, ex- traded from Hackluyt's voyage?, we are informed, that Nicholas de Lenna, or of Lynn, in Norfolk, a fraucifcan THE NORFOLK TOUR. franciican friar, and an excellent mufician, mathema- tician and aftrologer, bred at Oxford, after having applied his ftudies chiefly to aftronomy ; by the help of his *ailrolabe, made five voyages to the North Seas. In the firft he failed from Lynn to Iceland, with company, v^hom he left on the fea coail, while he travelled up into the ifiand, in fearch of difcoveries. He prefented his charts of the northern feas, at his re- turn, to Edward III. in the year i 360, and they were afterwards made ufe of in the reign of Henry VI. Chaucer had a great efteem for him, lliling him Frere Nicholas Linn, a Rev. Gierke, He is faid to have wrote a book of Difcoveries, called In^-uentio For- tu?iat. it is prefunied, its form, . when entire. At prefent the vvhole of the fouth iide is covered with buildings, and towards the eail it has been nearly levelled, and is cut through by the road, only part of the eail fide, near the north eaf- tern angle remaining. The enclofing ramparts are Hill near 20 feet high, and their ditches at the bot- tom from 60 to 70 feet wide, which confidering the double Hope of 40 degrees, gives a confiderable width at the creft of the ramparts. Tlie ditch round the mount meafures 42 feet wide at bottom. The chief magiilrate found here at the Conqueft, was ftiled a Conful, whence it is fuppofed to have been a Roman town. In the eleventh century it was the See of a Bifhop, and a place of great note, but declined on the tranflation of the See to Norwich ; yet in the reign of Henry VIII. it was a place of fuch confequence as to be made a fuifragan See to Norwich. In the reign of James I. an hofpital and a grammar- fchool were founded here, by Sir Richard Fulmerfton. B b 2 Sir 258 THE NORFOLK TOUR. Sir Jofeph Williamfon, Secretary of State to King Charles II. built the council-houfe, and gave the cor- poration a fword and a mace. Here is a common gaol, a bridewell and a vvorkhoufe. This place has been honoured with the prefence of many of our Sovereigns, particularly Henry I. and II, Queen Elizabeth had a houfe here which (he frequent- ly vifited, and King James I. making it one of his hunting feats, had a palace here, which is Hill called the King's houfe. In the church of St. Mary, there was a fociety of leligious perfons as early as the reign of King Edward the Confeffor;, if not before : and hither Arfaflus, Bi- fhop of the Eafl Angles, removed his epifcopal feat from North Elmham, in 1075 ; continued here only nineteen or twenty years, and then was tranllated to Norwich ; after which, a monaftery for Cluniac monks was built here by Roger Bigod, and made fa- bordinate to the abbey of Cluney in France ; but this houfe and place being found inconvenient, the fame Roger began a mofl ftately monaftery without the town, and on the other fide of the river, dedicated to the Vfrgin Mary. This monaftery was finiflied in II 14, and was made denifon the 50th of Edward III. and upon the diftblutlon, was found to be endowed with yearly revenues to the amount of 312K 145. EAST DEREHAM. THE NORFOLK TOUR. 259 EAST DEREHAM, IS one of the neateft and moft populous market towns in the county, delightfully iituated on the ealt Ude of a rivulet, and nearly in the centre of Norfolk. It has a weekly market on Friday, and fairs February 3, and September 28. Here is a genteel a/Tembly- houfe. A new butchery was built a few years fmce, and though it may not be handfome, 'tis convenient. At the nOith end of the market-place flands a pillar, marking the dillances to moft of the principal towns and feats in the county. It has been twice almoft deilroyed by fire, the firft was on July i, 1981, the fecond July 3, i68r, when 170 houfes were burnt, and the v/hole lofs v/as efli- mated at 1 9,443!. The Church is dedicated to St. Nicholas, and has a chapel belonging to it at Hoe. It is a large pile, built in the form of a cathedral ; has a nave, nortii and fouth aiies, tv/o tranfepts, and chancel, all leaded. There is a tower between the body of the church and the chancel. The fouth porch was built by Roger and Margaret Boton, whofe names are now to be feen ia the Aone-work. The font is o6langular and very Jiandfbme on it are carved the reprefentation of cur Saviour's crucifxion, and the feven facraments of the Romiih church, below wliich are eight of the Apoflles at full length, and at the eight corners beneath them, the four evangelills, an.i the fymbo! of each, nanielj/, an angel, a lion, bull, and eagle. The afcent up to it^ is by a double odlagcn ; the upper CiTiagon is cu- B b 3 i loi:iIy THE NORFOLK TOUR. riouily worked in the Gothic tafte ; it was ere£led in 146S, and coll: 12I. 13s. 9d. To this ftone font a Go- thic top was added in 1678, ornamented in the tafte of the time, and fupported by four fluted pillars* Be- fore the font, Hands a large brafs eagle, on a pedeftal of the fame, fupported by three fmall lions ; it is gilt, and was formerly ufed as a litany delk. In the mid- dle of the centre aile hangs a brafs branch, with a double circle of candlefticks, twelve in each circle 1 it was purchafed in 1738, and coll twenty-five pounds. The church is very handfomely feated, the fronts of the feats towards the middle aile being all panneled wainfcot. Edmund Bonner, L. L. D. and afterwards Bifhop, of flaming memory, was collated to this Rec- tory, by the Billiop of Ely, in 1534» The tower in the middle of the church being thought too weak for the bells, part of it, and the bells were taken dov/n, about 1501, and the large tower (then called the new docker) in the church- yard, on the fouth fide, and about twenty yards from the chancel, was begun ; it was feveral years in build- ing ; in it is a clock and eight bells. At the weft end of the church yard, are the ruins of a very ancient baptiftry, over which was formerly a fmall chapel dedicated to St. Withburga, At the call end of this, there is the remains of a curious old Gothic arch, from which runs a fpring of clear water, formerly faid to have had many healing and medici- nal qualities. The fabulous account is, that this fpring took its rife in the church-yard, from the place where St* Withburga. was firft buried. It was arch- ed THE NORFOLK TOUR, ed over and converted into a cold bath in the year 1752. Here was a famous guild, or fociety of St. With- burga, which had a ftrong brick houfe, called the Guild-hall, where their fealls were kept, and other ceremonies performed. This was pulled down, and a handfome houfe built on its iite by James Smyth, Efq. now of Bradenham. S W A F F H A M, ONE of the neateft market towns in the county^ Hands upon a riling ground, in an open champaign country, on a gravelly foil, contains about 3000 inha- bitants, and is efteem'ed a very healthy fituation. There are many handfome modern-built gentlemens houfes in it, and a genteel neighbourhood around, which render it a pleafant and delirable retreat. The jnarket-hill is fpacious, and a handfome crofs was a few years fmce ereded on it by the late Earl of Orford. The butter market formerly kept at Down- ham is removed to this place. The market is on Satur- day, and plentifully fupplied with good provifions. The town ftands fo high, that fome of the wells are fifty yards^ deep. The races annually commence about the 25th or 26th of September, and continue for three days, at which time there is a great meeting of the nobility from Newmarket, and the gentlemen and ladies in the county. There are affemblies the firft and third nights, and frequently a concert of mufic the interme- diate night. An afTembly-room has been built on the well 262 THE NORFOLK TOUR. wefl fide of the market-hill, in which fubfcription afTemblies are held every month. In the months of November and March, great courfing matches for greyhounds are held here for a a v^eek. The matches are regularly entered, and the greyhounds names, play or pay, half forfeit, &c. put down in the book, iu the fame order as the run- ning horfes at Newmarket. The church was begun about the end of the reign of Edward IV. when the chancel was finilhed, but the church was not completed till the reign of Henry VII. It is built in the form of a cathedral, having a nave, north and fouth ailes, chancel, and two tran- fept chapels, making it in the form of a crofs. It is a very handfome building ; the tower Heeple is particularly light, well proportioned and elegant, fur- mounted with a * turret, ereded in 1777 ; the whole is covered with lead, and built with free-ilone, flint, and brick : The upper part of the nave is coped and embattled ; the ileeple is entirely free~il:one, and em- battled, in which there is a clock and eight bells ; above the water table, and under the battlements, are two iliields, in one of which are the crofs-keys, and in the other, two iwords a-crofs, the emblems of Sr. Pe- ter and Paul, to whom the church is dedicated. The tower was begun in 1507 and finifhed in 1510. Over the door ofwhieh are feveral niches for images. From the weft door to the entrance into the chancel is about 41 yards, and the breadth of the nave, together with the * The turret 's too fmali in propcrtiou to the fceepk, tho' it is . iViid to have eou ;he tov/n iiear ccol, . THE NORFOLK TOUR. 263 the alles within the walls, is about 17 yards. The vault of the church, and the fide ailes, are fupported by fine flender pillars, conf.fling each of four fmall pilafters joined together, forming fourteen handfome arches, feven on a fide : Over which are twenty-eight neat light windows. The roof is wonderfully beauti- ful, of oak, neatly wrought and carved. The north aile and lleeple of this church, are faid to have been built by John Chapman, erroneouily Hated to have been a travelling tinker, ^ho ^us en- riched by a dream. There formerly was the pi6lure of him, with his wife and three children, in ftained glafs, in every window of this aile, with the following infcription running through the bottom of each win- dow : Grata pro bono Statu Johannis Chapman • Uxoris ejuSi et Liberorum Jucrum, qui quidem Johan* nes hanc Alafn cum fenejirisy tedo et — -fieri fecit. In this aile a large and lofty gallery is ereded for the fingers ; the afcent is by a ilone ilair-cafe in the adjoining wall, the way no doubt to the ancient rood- loft. The arch of the chancel, and that at the well end, are very grand and fpacious, rifing almofl to the fummit of the roof of the church. The chancel is about fifteen yards in length, and feven in breadth, the roof is of oak, fupported by Ang.els. From the mofl ancient times there was a vicar un- der the redor, prefented by him, fo that the re(^ory was a finecure. The patronage of the vicarage is in the Biftiop of Norwich. CASTLE 264 THE NORFOLK TOUR. CASTLE RISING. SIR HENRY SPELMAN obferves it is a Bnrgli of {ach antiquity, that the royal Archives and Records give no account 01 it ; and he thought that the Romans had a place of defence here, where feme of their coins had been found, and a Conilantine had been brought to him. That it is the moil ancient Burgh in the county feems evident from its mayor being always called over firft, at the reading of the King's commiilion of the peace before Judges of aflize. It was formerly governed by a mayor, recorder, high fleward, twelve aldermen, a fpeaker of the commons, and fifty (fome fay feventy) burgeffes. At prefent the corporation conMs of two aldermen only, who al- ternately ferve the office of mayor, and return two members to parliament, the mayor being the return- ing officer. The burgage tenures are the property of the Earh of SuiFoIk and Orford, and though live OS fix names generally appear upon the poll at an elec- tion for members of parliament, it is very doubtful whether there is a fmgle legal ^oter belonging to the burgh, except the Redoro This town, from its vicinity to the Great Oufe, the Hatnefs of the adjoining marfhes, the name of a ftreet in it called Haven -gate-lane ; in which a piece of an anchor was dug up fome years ago, and feveral other corroborating evidences, isfuppofed, in ancient times, to have been a fea-port. Tradition the faithful preferver of many a fa6l which hiilory may have overlooked, de- fpifed. THE NORFOLK TOUR. 265 fpifed, or forgotten, has handed down to us the two ; following lines : Rifing was a fea-port-town, when Lynn was but a marfh. Now Lynn it is a fea-port town, and Rifing fares the worfe. The caflle was built after the grant of the town and lordfhip by King V/illiam JF. to William de Al- bani, that King's pincerna, or butler, and probably by his fon Wiliiam, the firil Earl of SuUex, who died in 1 1 76. It Hands upon a hili. on the fouth fide of the town, whence is a fineprofped over land 5 and an arm of the fea : great part of the walls of the keep, or inward tower, arelHU Handing, being a Gothic pile, much re- fembling that of Norwich, and little inferior, the walls being about three yards thick, coniifling chleiiy of free-Hone with iron or car-ftone, encompaffed with a great circular ditch and bank of earth, on which Hood alfo a llrong Hone wall. The ditch, now dry, was probably formerly filled with water ; there is but one entrance to it, on the eafi fide, over a ftrong Hone bridge, about thirty paces long, (with a gate-houfe thereon) about eight or nine paces broad, and is fup» ported by one arch. The invvard part of the caHle, or keep, is all in ruins, except one room, where the court -lete of this lordHiip is held. No doubt the apartments were grand and fumptuous, when queen Ifabcl relided here, and when the great King Edward III. with his queen and court were often entertained, and lodged here. On the walls which are decaying, having no cover, were toweis, or turrets, which the lords of the manors of HunHanton, Roydon, and the Wootons, 266 THE NORFOLK TOUR. Woottons, were by their tenures obliged to guard and defend. The compafs of the ditch that inclofes the whole is above one thoufand and eighty paces. In this caftle Ifabel, Queen of Edward II, and mo- the rof Edward III. after the death of her favourite. Earl Mortimer, was coufined from 1330 till her death in 1358, v/here flie was vifited by Edward III. and his Queen in 1340, and again by the King, 1344. LITTLE WALSINGHAM, A CONSIDERABLE market town delightfully fitu- ated on the banks of a namelefs river, which runs into the fea below Stifkey, at hx or feven miles dif- tance. The grounds on each fide rifmg in a bold manner gives the country here an appearance not of- ten to be met with in this county. Mr. Warner's plantatious, the abbey and church with a fmall fpire, are fine objeds, prefenting themfelves in different points of view on approaching the town. The curioes traveller fliould not omit feeing the gardens of the late Henry Lee Warner, Efq. in which are the ruin^ of an ancient monaflery, and fhrine de- dicated to the Virgin Mary,* and formerly as much frequented as that of Thomas a Becket at Canter- bury. The chapel was built in the year 1061, by Richolde, a noble widow and Lady of that manor, in imitation of the chapel of Nazareth. In thofe days of darknefs and fuperllition, when Prieiis and PJonks ruled not only the confciences hut the * Here are twa wells called by her name. THE NORFOLK TOUR. 267 die purfes of the Laity, then they who had not made a pilgrimage and an offering at the {hrine of the blefied Virgin of this place, were looked upon as im- pious and irreligious. ~ Era/musy who had been here, gives the following defcription of it. The Church is fplendid and beautiful, but the Virgin dwells not In it ; that, out of veneration and refpedl, is *^ granted to her Son. She has her church fo con- trived as to be on the right hand of her Son ; but neither in that doth fhe live, the building being not yet finilhed. In this church there is a fmall *^ chapel of wood, into which the pilgrims are ad- mitted on each iide at a narrow door ; there is but *^ little or no light in it, but what proceeds from wax ^' tapers, yielding a moll pleafant and odoriferous *^ fmell ; but if you look in, you will fay it is a feat of the Gods, fo bright and Ihining it is all over, with jewels gold and iilver." . Sir Henry Spelman tells us, when he was a child, there was a common tradition, that King Henry VIII. in the fecond year of his reign, went bare- foot from Barlham to Wallingham, and oflered a necklace of great value to the Virgin Pvfary ; but in the thirtieth year of the fame reign, Thomas Crom- well, then Lord High Chamberlain of England, car- ried her image from hence to Chelfea, where he took care to have it burnt. F A K E N H A M, IS a neat market town : The market is held on Thurfday, where the merchants from Wells conflant- C c Jy 268 THE NORFOLK TOUR. ]y attend to buy corn of the farmers for exportatiori. There is a coart-houfe, which is now ufed as a fchool, where occafionally concerts of mufic are held : It was intended for a feflions-houfe, the quarter felTions of the peace being formerly held alternately at Fa- kenham and Walfingham, but of late years at Wal- fingham and Holt. The church is a large regular pile, having a nave, a north and fouth aile covered with lead, and a chancel covered with tiles | at the wefl-end a tower ileeple with eight bells, and is dedicated to St. Peter. Round the cover of the font is. Orate pro aia Ade Vo-tvrytej et AUcie uxor is ejus^ et ommwn henefaSIor, fuor« qui ijlud opus fieri fecerunt in honore Dei cfnnipo^ tent is, A?nen, On the eight fides of the ftone bafon, or font, are feveral religious emblems, viz. an angel, ox, lion, and eagle, to reprefent the four Evangelills ; alfo that of the Trinity, a crofs crown of thorns, the King's-arms; alfo on the pillars of it, the Letter H, or L, in an old charadler, and a crown over it, to re- prefent it as being in tlie Duchy of Lancafter, or built in the reign of Henry VL H O L T, Is a market town, and the principal town in the hundred, pleafantly fituated on rifmg ground, and in a fine country, that may juftly be called the garden of Norfolk. The fcenes around, and the profpecls it commands, are more variegated than in any part of the county. The air is iliarp but healthy, There are fome good houfes in it;, but the want of water is feverely THE NORFOLK TOUR. 269 ieverely felt, the inhabitants being obliged to fetch it at fome dillance. The Quarter SefTions of the Peace are held here and at Wallingham alternately, and the SefTions-houfe is ufed as an afTembly-room for the monthly afTemblies. It is 124 miles from London. The market is on Saturday. Great part of this town was deflroyed by lire, on Saturday May the ill. 1708. The church is dedicated to St. Andrew. Before the fire it had a nave, two ailes, a fquare tower, and a fpire fo high as to be a good fea-mark: the chan- eel after this was fitted up for the reception of the parifhioners. Sir John Grefham was born in this town in 1507 : He entered into partnerfiiip with his brother Sir R. Grefnam, an eminent merchant, in London, and ferved the omce of ni:;riir during the yc^r his brother was Lord Mayor, and founded a free-fchool in Holt, which is under the diredlion of the company of fifii- mongers. — He and his brother projeded the fcheme of building the Royal Exchange, which was after- wards completed by Sir John, Son of Sir Richard. He died 1556. CROMER, THERE was formerly a town called Shipden, be- twixtthis town and the ocean, but the Tea has entirely fwallowed up that town, and makes hafty (Irides to- wards devouring Cromer alfo, which nov/ flands fo near the edge of the cliff, that in the memory of many people now living there, upwards of twenty C c 2 houfts 270 THE NORFOLK TOUR. houfes have at difFerent times been precipitated into the Tea. At very low tides there is an appearance of fome- thing, which the filliermen call Shipden ileeple. It is hardly probable, but that a large tower, whofe foun- dations were an hundred feet perpendicular from the furface of the fea, after being tumbled into it, with the immenfe body of earth that fupported it, and af- ter being wafhed for many centuries by the waves, muft have been fo fhattered and dallied to pieces, that no remains can be vifible. There is now no harbour at Cromer, yet a trade is carried on from this place, whence corn is ex- ported, and coals, deals, &:c. are imported. As the method of trading from the place is curious, we fhall mention it. The velTels ufed are from 60 to 100 tons burden, few larger : at high water they are laid upon the beach, and, as foon as the water is fufficiently ebbed, carts are dravv^n to the fide of the Ihip, and the coals are {hot into them, as they are into lighters in other places. The carts carry only half a chaldron at a time, as the read up the cliF is very deep. In this manner the carts continue working, till the water flows fo high as to waili the horfes bellies, and float the carts : they can unload fometimes 60 chaldrons in a tide. When the vefiel is empty, it floats on a high tide, and continues at a little diflance from the Ihore, and is loaded with corn by boats, as they feldom run the hazard of loading them when laid on the beach, left contrary winds ihould prevent their getting off with the cargo. Robert THE NORFOLK TOUR. 271 Robert Bacon a mariner of this town difcovered Ice- land, and is faid to have taken the prince of Scot- land, James Stuart, failing to France for education, hi the reign of Henry I V. The Church has been a magnificent ftrudlure of flint and free-ilone. It was built about the year 1396 : its fteeple, which is 159 feet high, is fquare, and richly ornafnented with free-ftone fculpture: the chancel is in ruins. — About a mile to the ead of the town is the light-houfe. — Here is a great fifliery for lobfters and crabs, and within the lall few years, a confiderable number of herrings have been taken on the coall. There is a fair on Whitfun Monday, which draws together all the neighbourhood within ten miles. To a mind that can receive pleafure from feeing others pleafed, without dcfpifing the reafons of their being fo, this is a moil ftriking fcene ; feveral hundreds of both fexes, and all ages, in their holiday cloaths, are feen from the cliff in boats, which beautifully enliven the fea, whilfl fwarms of people who cannot get boats enough to gratify their defire of floating, impatiently wait on the beach, which is covered with them. This town is likely to receive confiderable improve* ments, from its having lately become a falhionable bathing place. A Y L S H A lA, 272 THE NORFOLK TOUR. A Y L S H A M, THIS town in the time of Edward IL and III. was the chief town in the county for the linen manufadlure. But about the time of Henry VIII. that had much de- creafed, and the woollen manufadlure Houriflied. In the reign of James I. it was famous for knitters. At prefent no manufadure is carried on. It is a neat market town fituated on the river Bure, in the moR agreeable part of the county, eleven miles from Norwich, feven from North Walfliam, eleven from Cromer, eleven from Holt, and contains about one hundred and twenty families. The river Bure was made navigable from Cokifhall to this town, for boats of 13 tons burden, and drawing two feet four or live inches water» The work was completed in Oc- tober 1779, and coft 600 iL The Church, dedicated to St. Michael the Arch- Angel, is a noble regular building, and was erected by John of Gaunt, Duke of Lancailer ; it has a nave^ two ailes, two tranfcepts and a chancel adjoining ; a fquare tower with a fmall broach or fpire on the top, an organ, clock, and ten bells ; the porch and the whole building being covered with lead. On the fouth window there is a neat painting of the faluta- tion, finlfhed in 15 16. On the font is neatly carved the emblems of the four EvangeliftSj the inllruments of the paffion, a crucifix, and the arms of John of Gaunt, Duke of Lancafler, Lord Morley, Bouchier^ St« George^ and a crofs flore. The THE NORFOLK TOUR. 273 The county Bridewell ftands near the market- place, and has this curious infcription, cut in wood. God prefer've* our. Juprem, hed, Kyng, Heitry^ ^height. Pray, for, the* good, profperyte, and, ajjtate, of, Roherd, MarJ!:>am, and. lone, his, nvyfe, the, nvtche. this, ho^xvfe, they, ca^fed, to, he, made, to. the, honor, of, the, toivne, he, thir, qnjjick, linjes, fines, I5;43. The free-fchool ftands near the church, it was founded by Robert Jannys, Mayor of Norwich, in 1517, and endowed with lol. a year. The Market is on Tuefday, and the Fairs are March 23, and September 26, G A Y w o o D, JS a village adjoiniug and within a mile of the Borough of Lynn Regis, to the Eall, This town and Lordftiip belonged to the Bifliops of the Eall Angles, in the time of the Saxons, and was given by fome of their Kings. It continued in the See of Norwich till it was granted by an a6l of parliament, February the 4th, in the 27th year of Henry VIII. to the Crown, with other of the Blfhop's manors and barony, by way of exchange for the abbey manors and lands belong- ing to the monallery of St. Bennet in the Holme. The church is dedicated to St. Faith the Virgin and Martyr ; it confifls of a fquare ileeple of brick, in wlxich there are three bells ; a nave with north and fouth crofs ailes, covered with thatch. It is a Re6lory, and the Tythes atTiO'.int to 2561. per annum. The Rev. Samuel EeatnifFe was Curate and Redor of this parilh, 55 years, and lies buried in the chancel, with the following infcription upon his tomb-flone. THE NORFOLK TOUR. In Memory of The Rev. Samuel BeatnifFe, M. A, Who died at Lynn, Auguft lo, 1781, Li the 79th year of his age. Having been Curate, and Rector of this Parifli^ And Bawfey, 55 years. He v/as benevolent and charitable. His mind was cheerful, eafy, and unfufpicious ; To all mankind he was jufl and friendly. And to his relations generous. ' He lived refpedled, and died lamented. * John de Gray Bifhop of Norwich, built a noble palace in this village in 1210, for himfelf and fuccef- fors : At this time Lynn belonged to the Bilhop of Norwich, which very probably occafioned the Bifliop's building a palace here ; and it is worthy of remark, that when King John was at Lynn, and granted the corporation many extenfive privileges, it was upon the exprefs condition, that the provofl, or chief ma- giilrate, fhould at the Bifhop's palace at Gaywood, annually acknowledge himfelf fubjedt to the Bifhop of Norwich. There is no edifice now in this village, bearing marks of fuch high antiquity, and it is difficult to guefs in what part of the town it flood, unlefs it was on the fite of what is now called Gay wood-hall, which is * If faftidioiis criticifm fhouM difcover, that too much is here laid of an obfcure village, and an obfcure man, let gratitude be per- mitted to make the following reply.— The Compiler of this hum- ble performance, here fpent a great part of his early years, and be- ing the adopted fon of this worthy man, pays this fmall tribute to bis memory. THE NORFOLK TOUR. 275 IS furrounded by a very large and deep moat or wet ditch, and ramparts, certainly of no modern date, and which could never be made for any other purpofe than that of defence ; a very common and necelTary pre- caution, when the great Barons of the kingdom fre- quently took up arms againil: their Sovereign, or againft each other. For petty tyrants then acknow- ledged no law beyond the point of a fword, or the flight of an arrow. About forty years ago there was an oak tree of extraordinary fize fcanding at the entrance thro' the ram.part on the north fide of this hall ; it v/as quite hollow, and had a table in the middle, round which eight or ten people might conveniently fit. In 1684 the militia of the county were reviewed in compliment to Charles IVs. prefence, 'tis /aid On Gayn^vood Greeny' but there being no place in the village now known by that name, leads us to con- jedlure, that the review was upon Sayer's marfh, a fine common belonging to this town, and between it and Lynn to the fouth, where the Weftern Battalion was reviewed by the late Lord Orford in 1759, previous to being called out into adual fervice. There are about 500 inhabitants in this village ; the land is not inferior to any in the county, and lets at from 25 s, to 3] . per acre, but the village has not by any means that cheerful appearance which it bore 40 years ago ; this perhaps has been occafioned by the great advance of rents, which in general are fo high as to keep the little farmers wretchedly poor. In RefRey wood in this parifh, there is a fine fpring of 276 THE NORFOLK TOUR, of Chalybeat water, which upon being taken into a bafon has a black and dirty colour, but on mixing it with fpirits, becomes quite clear, and is of a pleafant flavor. This is a kind of Vauxhall to the inhabi- tants of Lynn, who refort here in great numbers dur- ing the fummer feafon. A confiderable Fair is held at Gay wood, on the 22d and 23d of June. St. BENNET in the HOLME, THAT is in the River TflanJ.'' Canute, the Danilh King of England, returning from Rome, found- ed a monaflery in a fenny place, called Cowholm,and fometimes Calvefcroft ; where before the Danes came into England, one Svvenian an Hermit, with others his brethren, lived about fifty years ; whofe fuccefibrs, the Hermits of this place, being flain in the Danilh perfecution, occafioned King Canute, to expiate his countrymens* murthering them, to begin the founda- tion of this monailery, which was then dedicated to St, Benedid, and endowed by him, anl his /ucceflbr Edward the ConfefTor, with great privileges and re- venues, It was afterwards fo llrongly fortified by the monks, that it looked more like a cafble than a cloif- ter. It was befieged by William the Conqueror in vain, till a monk betrayed it on condition that he Hiould be made abbot ; which he accordingly was ; but Hiortly after the King ordered this new * abbot to be * Barber's MS. fays that this Abbot, whole name was EtheU wold or Elewold, fled into Denmark to efcape the fury of William the Conqueror, THE NORFOLK TOUR. 277 be hanged for a traitor, and thus he received the jufl reward for his treachery. The lands were valued on the difTolution of the monafteries, the 26th of Henry VIII. at fix hundred and fixty-feven pounds, nine iliiilings and eight-pence, per ann. which lands, be- ing a little before the dilTolution exch.tnged for thofe belonging to the See of Norwich, the Bifhops of Nor- wich for this reafon, are at this day privileged to chal- lenge the t^tle of abbot of Holme^ and, may according- ly fo ilile themfelves. What remains at prefent of the buildings of this monaflery is very Mttle, the church, &c. being all entirely dellroyed, except fome part of the old gate-houfe : However iince the publilhers of the Mo- naflicoii have met with a Draught or Reprefentation of the church in a manufcript in the Cottonian Li- brary, and printed it there, I fhall refer the reader to that work ; whereby he will be able to guefs at the nature of the fabric. See Monallicon Anglicanum. Vol. I. p. 282. The greater part of the preceding, and the follow- ing account of St. Bennet's Monaftery is extraded from a MS. of Mr. T. Barber, late of the Cuftom- houfe, Yarmouth, to which he had fubjoined a com- plete lift of the Abbots to the difTolution, but it be- ing too long to be inferted here, we fiiall feled fome remarkable pafTages only. William Rugge, alias Repfe, or Reppes, (the fortieth Abbot of this place) D. D. and Fellow of Gonvill Hall, in Cambridge, and fon of Wm. Rugge, of North Repps in this county, was made Abbot April 26, 1530. Six years after which being promoted by King Henry VIII. to the fJee of Norwich, he by virtue 2,8 THE NORFOLK TOUR. virtue of a private a6l of parliament, parted with all the lands of his Biftiopric (except the fite of his Epifcopal palace in Norwich) to the King, by way of exchange for the revenues belonging to the Abbey of Holme, and priory of Hickling ; which laii being foon after alienated by him, the whole income fince his time appertaining to the See of Norwich, has been only the Eftate of Holme monaflery, which his fucceffors Hill enjoy, according to the purport of the faid a6l ; which continuing unrepealed gave occafion to Bifliop Richard Montague, temp. Caroli primi, to fubfcribe himfelf in his leafes executed before the great rebellion, Richard by divine permiffion Lord Bifliop of Norwich, and head Abbot of St, Benedid's de Hulm, But to return to Bifliop Rugge, alias Repps ; he died anno 1550, September 21, and was buried in the middle of the cathedral church of Nor- wich, having been deprived by order of King Edward VI. on January 3 1 , preceding, notvvithfl:anding he had been a zealous Hickler for the King's Supremacy, and influenced his Convent, 21 in number, to fubfcribe to the fame anno 1534. Two years before this mona- fl:ery was annexed to the See of Norwich, by ad of parliament as aforefaid, which limited the Bifnops of Norwich before the reformation took place, to main- tain only a prior and twelve monks ; all which were fo well provided for before the year 1553 ; that not the leafl: fum remained payable out of the abbey, ei- ther in penfions or otherwife at that time. — Willis's mitered abbys, v. i.p. 118, The exchange of the lands of the Bifliopric, v/ith thofe of St, Bennet's Hglme and Hickling, was made in THE NORFOLK TOUR. 279 February 4,27th, Henry VIII. at which time Abbot Repps was nominated to the See of Norwich, though not ele^ed till May following. Bifhop Repps, alienated from the Bifliopric, not only the priory of Hickling, but many good manors belonging to the abbey, fome by abfolute gift, others upon trifling exchanges, and made long leafes, fo that at lafl he was unable to maintain the State of the Bifliopric, and forced to refign, v/ith a penfion of 200 marks, (as I have fome where met with.) 'Tis cer- tain he was not deprived, becaufe in the patent of commiflion of John Hopton, the Bifliopric is faid to be void by the relignation of William the lafl Ei- ftop. — The porter or fome fervant of the Blfliop, is faid to have made a copy of verfes, beginning thus. Poor Will, thou rugged art, and ragged all. Thy abbey cannot blefs thee in fuch Fame; To keep a palace, flate, and lordly halJ, When gone is thence what fliou'd maintain the fame. Sec, When the Bifliops of Norwich were freed from maintaining the prior and twelve monks, is not known ; 'Tis no wonder any of them are not in the penfion Bifliopric, anno 1553, becaufe if any then remained unprovided for, they were fupported out of the Bi- fliopric, and not from the Crown. Bifliop Repps lived at St. Bennetts, for I havefeen proccfl^es or citations, to call perfons before him or his Auditor, Caufar in capella Ja/.cti Saluatori infra manerium nofirum de Hulmo ; and fometimes, in Ca- pelld J audi maria injra mafierium Jiojlrum de Hulmo y D d ^54-« 280 THE NORFOLK TOUR. 1542. However, in his or the fucceeding Biftiop^g time, the abbey was fufi'ered entirely to fall to ruin^. Bifhop Jagon fued the adminiftratrix of Biftop Red- man for 3,i6iL dilapidations about the monailery ; but it had been done fo long that he recovered no- thing. Biftiop Freake repaired a handfome hall or grange called Ludham-hall, built by the Abbot Martin, anno 1450, about a mile from the abbey, in a better ii.tua- tion, which was the country feat, and indeed chief place of refidence of ail the fucceeding Bilhops, who had here round them about 300 or 400I. per ann. do-- mains, wi^h all forts of meats, venifon, wild fowls, rabbits and fifh in great plenty, of their own ; and there- by were enabled to live honourably and hofpitably, till Bifhop Montague came, who leafed it out upon lives to provide for his family ; iince which the Bi- fhops have refided at Norwich. The ground in the Illand of St. Bennet in the Holme is fo fenny, that if the little firings and roots of the fhrubs in it are cut they will fwim upon the water ; and it has been conje(5lured from the cockles now and then dug up there, that the fea has formerly broken in fo far. The river Thyne or Thyrn joins the Yare near Clipfby, forming a kind of peninfula called Fiegg, where the foil is very rich and fruitful. It is in thi : part of the county that the Danes are fup- pOicd to have firfl fettled, both becaufe it is nearefl their lanibg, and being nearly furrounded with warer, is pretty v/ell fortified by nature; and alfo, be -aiife in that lit le compafs oi r;round we find 13 V*! ending in a Daniih word, at the end of a name. 4* ' ■ THE NORFOLK TOUR. 281 name, lignifyinga village or dwelling-place, hence our by-laws in England come to lignify fuch laws as are peculiar to each town, village, corporate body, or fo- cie^y, CONCISE REMARKS on the COUNTY. According to the Roman divifion of England, Nor- folk was part of the Iceni, In the Saxon diviiion it made a part of the kingdom of the Eaft Angles. It is called Simenl by Ptolemy only, who moll certainly means the fame country by it, as other authors by the Iceni. This appears from the fituation he has afcribed to it after Qatticuchlani, and having the TV/- mhantes on the Eaft, toward the eltuary of the Thames, The modern name Norfolk, or Northern- folky is, without queflion, by way of diftinftion from Suffolk, or the Southern-folk. Norfolk is a maritine county, nearly of an oval form, and fo furroanded by water, that except at a fmall caufeway, near Lopham, it is an ifland. The Britifh ocean forms its boundary on the north and eaft, for near 100 miles : on the fouth it is divided from Suffolk by the river Waveney and Little Gufe. From Yarmouth haven to near Littleport, is about 70 miles, whence the ifle of Ely is its boundary to Gunthorpe fluice, an irregular courfe of 37 miles : Crofs-keys walh divides it from the county of Lincoln. According to Sir Henry Spelman, it lies between 52 deg. 28 min. and 53 deg, 3 min. of north latitude, and between 13 deg. and i deg. 42 minutes of Eaft longitude : being 6.3 miles long from Yarmouth to Wifbeach, and about 40 in breadth from the parallel P d 2 of 282 THE NORFOLK TOUR. of Billingford to Wells ; by the roads it meafures 71 jTiiles by 43. Its circumference is nearly 210 miles, containing an area of (a) 1,148,000 acres, or i,793i- fquare miles, each being 640 acres. It is divided into 33 hundreds, in which are, one city, four burghs, twenty-four market towns, and about 700 (b) villages. In thefe are reckoned 47,780 houfes, and 240,000 in- habitants. It fends 12 members to parliament, has about (c) 6000 county freeholders, and provides 960 men to the militia. It lies in the diocefe of Nor- wich, and province of Canterbury ; pays 22 parts of the Land-tax raifed in Great Britain ; to the poor rate 83,739!. 4s. lod. and with refpedl to the general lituation of the kingdom, is accounted to be in the Eaft of England," and Eaft Dereham, near the centre of the county, is 94 miles, north-nor-eaft from London. The county, fays Camden, is large and almof! all champaign, except in fome places where there arife gentle hills. 'Tis very rich, well llored with flocks of ftieep, and abounds with rabbits. The foil is dif- ferent according to the feveral quarters 5 in fome places fat, lufcious and full of moiflure, as in Marfh- land and Flegg 5 in others, efpecially to the Weil, it (a) Hence it appears to be in magnitude, nearly one thirty-fifth part of England. (b) The Index to the poll-book, publifhed in 1768, makes them 716, exclulive of the city and county of Norwich. By the lift at the end of this book, they amount to 728. (c) In the great contefted eledion for Knights of the Shire in 1734, the Freeholders upon the poll amounted to 6,3023 in 17^6* they were 5,568, THE NORFOLK TOUR. 283 it is poor, lean, and fandy ; and in others clayey, and chalky. The foil is more various than perhaps that of any other county, and comprehends all the forts that are to be found in the ifland ; arable, paf- ture, meadow, wood-lands, light fandy ground, deep clays, heaths and fens. What Camden advances in general terms, on the foil and produce of the county, was written more than two centuries ago ; iince which the improved flate of agriculture has made fuch changes, that we hope it will be acceptable to our readers to be informed what Mr. Kent has more particularly faid upon the fame fubjeds in 1794. words are — The greatefl part of the arable land is fandy. The prime parts of the county lie north, and north-eaft of Norwich ; which may be denominated a true fandy loam, equal in va- lue to the bell: parts of the Auilrian Netherlands, which it refembles. The diitridl fouth and fouih-eall of Norwich, though chiefly fand, has an occaiional mixture of clay, and is, in many parts, wet, and full of fprings ; but yet this part is fruitful, though in a lefs degree than the former. The largeil proportion of the county lies well and north-wefb of Norwich. There is fome very good land in different parts of this diftricl ; but upon the whole, it is very inferior to the two preceding. This is called Well Norfolk ; and on account of the three great houfes, Houghton, Holkham, and Rainham, is the part which ilrangers are mofl acquainted with. The part of the county lying fouth-wefl of Norwich, runs upon a ftill lighter fand ; fp light, that in the hun- D d 3 dred 284 THE NORFOLK TOUR. dred of Greenhoe, tlie fand very often, in a high wind, drifts from one parlfh to another. Here are the great rabbit warrens. Mar fill and may be confidered as a hundred by it- felf. The foil is a rich ooze, evidently gained from the fea ; the north part is highly produdive ; but the fouth part very much injured for want of a better drainage. The air on the fea coail is in general (harp and healthy, in the hundreds of Eafland Weft Flegg damp and unwhoiefome, at Lynn and in Marihland cold, damp, gloomy, and aguilh, fo that when a ftranger comes to live in Marfhland, aiKl gets the ague, which he feldom efcapes, he is faid to he arrejied ly the bailiff of Maryland. The iDlarid part of the county IS extremely pleafant and falubrious. On the whole, the people of Norfolk have long been celebrated for their adivity, healthy ccnilitution, fubtlety, and fliarpnefs of wit, which Camden reproached them with turning to one of the worll: of purpofes,^that of harafling each other with petty law fults. If this reproach were v^eil founded in Camden's time, we be- lieve it to be no longer applicable, and that no county in England, of equal extent and opulence, prefents fewer inftances of this kind. Perhaps the inhabitants have difcovered, that he who goes to law on frivolous and vexatious occaiions, gratifies his refentment at the expence of his parfe, and the injury of his reputation. The Diocefe of Norwich comprehends the counties of Norfolk and Suffolk, and a few parifhes in Cam- bridgefliire^ excepting Emneth in Freebridge-Marfli- land^ THE NORFOLK TOUR. 2^5 land, which belongs to the Bifhoprk of Ely ; Had- leigh, Monks-Illeigh, and Moulton, inSulFoIk, as pe- culiars to the Archbifhopof Canterbury, and Freken- ham, to the See of Rochefler. It is divided into four Archdeaconries, and thofe fub-divided into deanries, pariflies, parochial bene- fices, and medieties. Archdeaconries Deanries FartJheSy &c. Norwich - 13 365 Norfolk - - 12 468 The number of eftabliihed Clergy refident within the Diocefe of Norwich, as calculated in 1772, was ; Of the beneficed Clergy, about 55a. Curates not beneficed, about 150, The county has the greateft number of pariHi churches of any in the three kingdoms, and if, as be- fore has been fcated, it contains 1793-f- Square miles, or 1,148,000 acres, and 240,000 inhabitants, it is 134 perfons to every fquare mile, and one to every three acres and i -third, a population furpaffing any ©ther county in England, at the fame diflance from the metropolis : And, it being fappofed that one per- fon out of every eight or nine, but vve will fay, in every ten, is able to bear arms, the county and city have 24,000 men fo qualified The mufter-roll in 1 5'; 4 , contained 8,240 names; whence it appears, that within 225 years, the defenfive power of the Sudbury Suffolk 8 county- 286 THE NORFOLK TOUR. county is increafed in nearly a threefold propov- tion. The civil government of the county is in the High- SherifF for the time being. He is annually appoint- ed by the King, and preiides at the alTizes, and other county meetings. The Lent Alljzes are held at Thetford in March, and the Summer Aliizes at Nor- wich, in Augull, The military and marine government of this county is committed to the care of a Lord-Lieutenant and Vice-Admiral, who is alfo Cuilos Rotulorum. The Lord-Lieutenant is the locmn te7iens of the King, and, as bis Vice-roy, governs in the county. It is an ofhce of great diftindicnf^ppointed by the King for managing the flunding militia in the county, and all military affairs therein. Pie has the power of com- mifHoning all officers in the militia, (his Majeily's approbation as a mere matter of form, being ob- tained) ; he appoints the Deputy-Lieutenants, whofe names muH: alfo be prefented by the King, As Cuftos Rotulorum, he puts foch gentlemen as are properly qualified, into the commiffion of the peace, and is fup- pofed to have cnilody of the rolls, or records of the Seffions of peace. In both theie capacities he ap- pears rather a Miniller than a judge, though he is, in his ov/n perfon, a Jullice of Peace and Qnorum. Lord - Lieutenants of counties were firil: infcituted July 24, 1549. The county hath the honoar of having raifed xht the iirft battalion of militia, which marched out of the THE NORFOLK TOUR. 287 the coanty, and did duty at Hllfea-barracks, near Portfmouth in 1759. There were feventy-feven monafteries and religious houfes in Norwich and the county of Norfolk, at the time of the general difTolution by Henry VIII. in the year 1535. — It is obferved that eccleiiaftlcal colleges are always in the moft pleafant and fruitful places : While the world allowed the Monks their choice, it is furely no difhcnour that they chofe well. There are in Norfolk more refulent proprietors of 400I. a year, landed eilate, than in any other county in England. The Quarter-feffions for the county are held in the Shire-houfe, on the Caftle -hill of Norwich, in Janu- ary, April, July and Odlober. The fummer Affixes, monthly county courts, and the various county meet- ings are alfo held in the Shire-houfe, and the county eledions, upon the Caftle-hill. The roads are naturally fo good, that when King Charles was here in 1671,* ^e faid, the county fhould be cut into ftrips to make roads for the reft of the kingdom. * At that time there was not a fingle Turnpike Road in the fQunty. TURNPIKE 288 THE NORFOLK TOUR. TURNPIKE ROADS in NORFOLK, MILES, From Norwich to Thetford - 29 Norwich to SwafFham - - 28 And to Mattilhall . . . ^ Well: Bilney to Lynn - » 9 Norwich to Yarmouth - - 22 St. Olave's Bridge to Beccles - 8 Lynn to Gay ton - „ ^ Lynn to Caftle Rifmg - - 5 And to Hillington - - 4 To Grimfton « » - 3 Ditto to Methwold 19 And to Little Oufe Bridge - 14 Ditto to Wifbeach - '7 Fincham to near Wilbeach - 17 Norwich to Scole Inn - - 20 And to New Backenham - 12 Ditto to Wat ton - -21 Ditto to Aylfham ~ - 11 Mr. Kent has {lated the value of the fuperabundant produce of the county to be as follows : Corn annually exported - 901,521 9 0 Bullocks, fheeps wool, fwine, rabbits, dairy articles, poultry, game, her- > 275,^00 o o rings, » » - J 1,170021 9 o If ten pounds be apportioned for the annual fub- fiflance of every human being, one with another, which is acknowledged to be a liberal allowance, it follows, that the county fends out a foreign fuppiy for up« wards THE NORFOLK TOUR. 289 wards of 117,000 perfons ; and as the foil of Norfolk is far from being naturally good, it mull, undoubted- ly, be to art and induftry, that this great fource of treafure is to be afcribed. The inhabitants of Norfolk are rather below the mid- dle ftature^of a clear complexion, an active, induftrious, enterprifing difpofition, and particularly fkilful in agriculture. Its extenlive fea coall and inland navi- gation, fur nifh 6000 experienced and hardy failors : the worft parts of the county, a prodigious number of rabbits, and erery part of it excellent mutton, and the beft turkies in England^ The extenfive culture of turnips as now pradlifed in Norfolk, for the purpofe of fattening bullocks, was introduced into the county by Charles, Vifcount Townlhend, who brought it from Hanover in the year 17 15, and firft tried it upon the light lands in the vicinity of Rainham. In 1727 it was very general in that part of the country, and has Unce become the bafis of the Norfolk Hufoandry. For the various fpecies, culture, and application of this mofl ufeful plant, we refer pur readers to Marfhall's Rural GEco- nomy of Norfolk, vol. i. p. 2 6 to 298. LIST OF RARE NORFOLK PLANTS. Veronica r rip hyllos, Trifia Speedwell, Near Cockley Cley ; it grov/s in Suffolk, and is a very rare plant in other counties of England. Utricularia minor, LeJJer'hooded Milfoil, St. Faith's Newton Bogs, near Norwich. SCHOENUS 290 THE NORFOLK TOUR. ScHOENUS cow^K^&sv s^Compreffed Bog-rujh. St. Faith's Bogs, and near Ditchingham Bath. SciRPus PAUCiFLORUs, Fl. Scot, Little choco' late headed Cluh-rujh. Poringland heath and Elling- ham fen. SciRPUS SYLVATiCus, Wood Club-rujh, Dit- chingham. Eriophorum VAGiNATUM, Hare^s-tail rujh» Bawfey Bottom, near Lynn. Phalaris arenaria, Fl. Ang, or Phleum ARENARiuM, Lin. Sea Canary graj]. On Yar- mouth Downs, and likewife near SwafFham, far from the Sea. Phalris Phleoides, Lin. Cat^s-tail Canary^ grafs. Firft difcovered in Great Britain in 1780, near SwafFham. A lope GURUS ventri cosus, Fl. Ang. Milium lendigerum, Lin. Panic fox-tail gra/s» Gillingham cornfields. AiRA setacca, Fl. Ang. Mountain hair-grafs^ Stratton Strawlefs Heath. Poa ANGUSTiFOLiA, Novro^ leaded Meadomi- grafs. On the walls of Caftie Rifing Caftle. ^GiLOPS incur V A, Sea hard-grafs. Yarmouth Downs. Elymus arenarius. Sea lime-grafs. On the Norfolk coarr. TlLL^A MUSCOSA, ProcuM bent Till e a . Dry Heaths in Norfolk and SuiFoL., and as yet not noticed in any Qtii i c . an y of E.iglana. HOL £ S T B U M U M B £ L L AT U M , Lin. C £ R A S T I U M tJMBELLATUM, Fl, Ang, Umbelliferous Chick-^veed. Griginally THE NORFOLK TOUR. 291 Originally found at Norwich, fmce at Bury, but no where elfe in England, as yet known. Galium ANGLICUM, S?nall Ladies bed-jira^y or Goofe-grafs. On the walls of Binham Church. AsPERULA CynANCHIca, Squinaiicy - nxjort. SvvafFham Heath. Anchusa SEMPERVIRENS, E^vergveen Alkanet^ About Norwich plentifully, but rare in the county. Verbasum Lychnitis, Var. jf?. Fl. Kn^.Hoary yellow MuUim, It has been noted for growing about Norwich in great abundance for many years back ; It is not uncomnion likewife in the county. It grows alfo at Bury, and Wollerton in Northarnptonfhire, is men- tioned by Ray, otherwife this beautiful plant feems to be claimed by Norfolk and Suffolk alone, and by the firfl in particular. Gent I AN A Pn eumo n anth e, Marjh Gentian, or Calathian Violet, Stratton Heath near Norwich ; the intelligence of its growing there was firll commu- nicated to the world, by the late Mr. Stillingfleet. Bu PLEURUM TENuissiMUM, L e aft Hare"* s -Ear , Near Cley and Lynn. S E L I N u M p A L u s T R E , MarJh Selinu?n, Very near Norwich, and in many places in Norfolk. This plant was not known to be Englifh by Mr. Ray. O £ N A N T H E p I M I' 1 N E L I. o I D E s , V avjley njjater Drop'iiuort, Marlhes near Yarmouth, and but of late known to be a native of Norfolk at all. Cicuta virosa. Long lea^ved nx^ater Hemlock, This very poifonous plant grows very near Norwich, and in many places in the county. Statice reticulata. Matted Sea - La^vendcr. E e Norfo k 292 THE NORFOLK TOUR. Norfolk alone has the honour of producing this plant on its fea fhore, viz. at Wells Blakeney and Cley ; it was not known to Mr. Ray, MyosuRus MINIMUS, MouJe-taiL St. Faith's and Lakenham, near Norwich. Narthecium ossifraguM;, Lancajhire Afpho^ del, Derfingham Moor. AcoRus Calamus, S-uueei fmelling Flag or Cala- mus. It has been noticed by Ray many years back, as growing on the river Yare. Frankenia hE.v\s^ Sea-heath^ Near Yarmouth. RuMEs pulcher. Fiddle-dock. I n Norfolk, very common. Vaccinium Oxy CO c cos, Crarilernej* Derfing- ham Moor. Ch RYSOSPLEN lUM ALTIRNIFOLIUM, AlUr- nate leaded golden Saxifrage, Poringland Heath, near Norwich. Paris qjjadri folia. Herb Paris, True-lo^e or Bne-herry. Rackheath wood, and near Bawburgh. Monotropa Hypopiyhys^ Tellouj Bird^s nejl. Shottifham and Stoke. Dianthus prolifer. Proliferous Pittk, Near Norwich. CucuBALUs Otites, Spamjh Campion, Near SwalFham. ArenaRIA tenuifolia. Fine halved Sand- 'mjort. Near Cley. On Sir Richard Bedingfield's gar- den walls, at Oxborough. Sedum Anglicum, Englijh Stone crop. Norfolk coaft. Chelidonium giaucium, TeJloiAJ horned Pop' pj> On. the Norfolk coail. THE NORFOLK TOUR. 293 ChELIDONIUM CORNICULATUM &HYBRIDUM, red and purple horned Poppy, Both difcovered in Nor- folk by Mr. Stillingfleet, and fent to Mr. Hudfon, author of the Flora AngHca. Pap AVER HYBRiDUM, Baji^rd Poppy, Near Norwich. StRatiotes ALOlDis, FreJJ:? -'Water Soldier. In Norfolk, very frequent* Anemone Pulsatilla, Pafque foiuer. Lex- ham, at a place called Tulip-hills. Teucrium Chamj?:dris, Co?mnon Germandes. Norwich city walls. MeLampyRum aRvense, Purple Confj -njjh eat. Near Coffey and Litcham, and feme other places in Norfolk. This beautiful fpecies appears to be rare in other counties. CocHLEARiA n iQ. Dantjh Scur^jy-grafs, At Wells. Iberis nudicaulis. Naked rock-cre/s* About Norwich, frequent ; rare in other counties. TuRRiTis glabra. Smooth toiver-miijlard* Near Norwich, and has been noticed by Ray, as a fcarce Norfolk plant. Crambe MARiTlMA, Sea Colcwort, Norfolk coafl. Geranium Sylvaticum, Wood Crane^ s - hilL Holt wood in Leziate, near Lynn. LathYRus palustris, Marjh Lathyrus. At Ran worth Norfolk. H(?POCREPis COMOSA, Tufted horfe JhoB ^etch, SwafFham Heath. Tr I folium CRN it ho pod 10 IDES, Bird's foot trefoiL Moufliold Heath, Norwich. THE NORFOLK TOUR. MedIcago ¥ K-LCkr a, Tellonv Medick, or ^lld Lucern, Been noted for growing in Norfolk, and particularly about Norwich, Crepjs foetidA, Stinking Crepis, or ha^k- nKieed, In the road from Swafrham to Downham, very fparingly, Hy oseris minima, Leaji S^-ine^s Succory. Corn- ^elds near Norwich and New Buckenham. Hypo cHj5£Ris glabra, Smooth Hypocharis ^ or ha^jjk-^eed. In a field betwixt Norwich and ColTey. Carduus acaulis, Divarf Carlt}ie Thijile. Dry Heaths and Commons in Norfolk, very fre- quent. , GnaphaLIUm dioicum. Mountain Cat's foot p Stratton Heath, about feven miles from Norwich. Cineraria palustris, Marjh flea-hane. Be- twixt Norwich and Yarmouth, efpecially at Acle and Caiiier. Ofhrys Loeselii, B^arf Ophrys A iingle fpecimen of this rare plant was once found at St» Paith's Newton, but it is doubtful whether it can be again found there. Ophrys p a l tr d o s a , The leajl t'w ay -blade. For the honour of Norfolk, this plant was found in i ;69, on Felthorpe Bogs, near Norwich, the place of its former growth in England, being very doubtful. Carkx Limosa, Marjh Car ex, Heydon and Sto Faith's Newton Bogs. Carex Strigosa, Loofe Carex. Sexton Wood, Bedinghain. Atriplex pedunculata. Pedunculated Orache. Yarmouth, difcovered about the year 1776. For THE NORFOLK TOUR- For the preceding lift of rare Norfolk plants, wc are indebte4 to an ingenious Botanical Friend, on whofe accuracy and abilities we have reafon to place the utmoft confidence. Thofe Gentlemen who are de- firous of further information on this curious and falhionable ftudy, we refer to the laft edition of Cam- den's Britannia, vol. 2. p. 118 to 122, where the catalogue is extended to more than 700. — The firft edition of Camden's Britannia, was publifhed in 1 586, in one fmall quarto volume, in Latin: It has oftea been tranflated into Englilh, and augmented by fuc» ceflive editors, till it has, it may be prefumed, ar- rived at maturity, under the foftering hand of Mr. Gough, who in 1789 publilhedan edition of it in three ponderous folio volumes ; but, where every thing \s put doivn that comes to hand, good, bad, or indifferent, what we hoped to find confoiidated, is fo enveloped and obfcured, by detached fentences, hearfays, conjedures, and difcordant matter, of we know not whom, that in the purfuit to gratify our curiofity, we are forcibly reminded of the adage, — ' Tis like fearching for a ^ iingle grain of v/heat amidft a bufhel of chaiT.' RIVERS AND BROADS. . The great OUSE fprings from Brackley in Northamptonfhire, and running through J^uckingham^ Bedford, Huntingdon, and Cambridgefliire, and di- viding this laft county from Norfolk, palfes by Little- port ; through Denver-iluice, and falls into the Bri- tiih Ocean, about ten miles below Lynn Regis. — It is navigable for lighter*;, from Lynn to Cambridge. The WAVENEY rifes at South Lopham in this county, from what is called the Ford, though in fa£l E e 3 it 296 THE NORFOLK TOUR. it is a caufeway of only nine feet in breadth, having a ditch on each fiJe, in one of which are fprings, the fource of the Waveney, running Eaftward by Scole^ Billingford, Harlefton, and Bungay, whence it is na- vigable to Yarmouth, Eeccles, St. Olave's marlhes, and meeting the the Yare and Bure, near Burgh- caftle, they empty into the ocean at the fort. The Little Gufe rifes at South Lopham, and feparating the county from Suffolk on the South-weft, palTes by Thet- ford, whence it is navigable by the way of Brandon, and joining the Great Gufe at Prieft -bridge, four miles below Little-port, in the Ifle of Ely, pafTes on to Lynn The contrary diredion of thefe ftreams, rifing fo near to each other, and the fources of two fuch confiderable rivers, is in this part of the country, coniidered as a great curiofity. The Wen SUM has its fource at Well Rudham, and being joined by feveral fmall ftreams in its courfe of near forty miles, paiTes through the city of Norwich ; below Trowfe it is joined by the Tesse, and at the upper end of Breydon, by the Waveney and EuRE,*and difcharges into the BritiHi Ocean, at the Port, two miles South of Yarmouth. The BURE rifes near Hindolveftone, and running by Saxthorpe and Blickling, becomes navigable at Aylfham, whence pacing Oxnead, Lammas, Coltifhall, and through ¥/roxham -bridge, and St. Bennet's in the Flolme, to Thiirne, where it is joined by a river called Thyrne, or Thurne ; they pafs through the bridge at Acle, and are navigable to Yarmouth. * It has not been clearly afcertained at what place this river takes the name of Yare. Some have afUgned it to its junOion \vith thb TefTe, and others, where it meets ths Waveney, THE NORFOLK TOUR. 297 The NENE rifes in Northamptonlhire, dividing that county from Huntingdon, and running through part of Cambridgefhire and Norfolk, pafles through Wifbeach, by Walpole, and falls into the Britifh ocean at Crofs-Keys Walh, which divides this county from Lincolnfhire. The NAR, rifes at Mileham, and paffingLitcham, and Caflleacre, becomes navigable at Wellacre, whence it takes its courfe by Pentney and Setchy- bridge, and falls into the Oufe at Lynn. Thefe rivers flowing through a nearly level country, their ftreams are flow, and frequently diffufe them- felves over the lower tradls in their courfe, forming fliallow lakes, here called Broads. The principal Broads are Breyden, above Yarmouth, through which the navigable rivers Yare and Waveney, have their channel : It is three miles in length, and in moH parts half a mile wide : Hickling-broad is a beauti- ful flieet of water, about one mile over ; near to it are feveral fmaller lakes of irregular form ; and about two miles Eaft, is Horfey-broad, covering forty acres. Near to Stalham is a broad one mile long, but fcarce- ly a furlong wide ; and below it is Barton-broad, of the fame length though much wider towards the mid- dle. Filby-broad extends a mile and a half, but is fliallow, narrow, and ill-fliapen. Rockland-broad is nearly of a circular form, two miles and a half in cir- cumference. By the river Bure are feveral broads, as Wroxham, Hoveton, Wood-baflwick, . Ranworth, and South Walfliam, all of which are faid to cover 500 acres. Quidenham, Difs, and Hingham, have each a fmall broad. Thefe broads are plentifully ftored with fifli and water-fowl. 298 THE NORFOLK TOUR, KNIGHTS of the SHIRE for the County of NORFOLK, /rc/;/ the Restoration to the pre- fent Time, ^'ith the umber of Y or %s polled at each contefed ELECTION. 1660, Horatio Townfhend, Bait» Sir William Doily, Kt. 1668. , Sir John Hobart 2740 Sir Roger Kemp 277,2 Sir Nevil Catlin 1987 Sir William Coke 1743 1670, Sir Roger Kemp 1434 Sir John Hobart 1620 Sir Thomas Hare 1274 Sir Nevil Catlin 1530 1672. Sir John Hobart 2047 Sir Peter Gleaa 2984 Sir James Aftley 2996 Sir William Coke 2 9 74 1676. Sir John Hobart 3440 Sir Peter Glean 3412 Sir Thomas Hare 1733 LordPafton 1147 1678. Sir John Hobart 3120 Sir James Aftley 2087 Sir William Coke 5? 30 i63o.. Sir John Hobart, Bart. 3559 Sir Peter Glean, Bart. 3202 Sir Chrift. Calthorp, Kt, 2517 Sir Neviie Catlin, Kt. 2549 I68I. Sir Henry Hobart 672 Sir John Holland 494 Dir X nomab xiaxc '3427 oir jacou ^iTiey 1684. Civ To^riK A/1-1pv Raff, oir JdCOD /iiiicyj uaiL* Q?s- 1""Kr>mc»c Harp T?ar^. oil i. nomas ndicj xjciil* oir JrieAry noDari, iJ Sept. 20, 1780. Sir Edward Aftley, Bart; Thomas William Coke, Efq. April 14, 1784. Sir John Wodehoufe, Bart. Sir Edward Aftley, Bart June 24, 1790. Sir John Wodehoufe, Bart. Thomas Wm. Coke, Efq, 30O THE NORFOLK TOUR. A Concise DESCRIPTION OF the PRINCIPAL TOWNS IN THE COUNTY of SUFFOLK. BURY St. EDMUND'S, IS lituated on the Weft fide of the river Bourne or Lark, which is navigable from Lynn to Fornham St, Martin's, a village about a mile North of this town. It has a moft charming inclofed country on the South and South-weft, and on the North and North-weft the moft delicious champaign fields, extending themfelves to Lynn, and that part of the county of Norfolk. The county on the Eaft is partly open and partly inclofed. It is fo pleafantly fituated, commands fueh an exten- five profped, and the air is fo ftiarp and falubrious, that it is called the Montpellier of England. On April the I ith 1608, there was a dreadful fire in this town, which deftroyed one hundred and fixty dwelling- houfes befides other buildings, to the value of fixty thoufand pounds. This accident though terrible in itfelf, in all probability was followed by this agreea- ble circnmftance, theprefent regularity of the ftreets, which now cut each other at right angles, and the town ftanding upon an eafy affent, greatly contributea to its beauty. Leland, the antiquarian - royal of England, who Houriihed in the reign of Henry VIIL and Edward _ VL THE NORFOLK TOUR. 301 VI. and died in 1552, gives this defcription of the town and monaftery : *^ A city more neatly feated the fun never faw, fo curioufly doth it hang upon a gentle defcent, with a little river on the Eaft *^ £de ; nor a monaflery more noble, whether one con- fiders its endowments, largenefs, or unparalleled magnificence. One might even think the monaf- " tery alone a city ; fo many gates is has (fome whereof are brafs) fo many towers, and a churchy *^ than which nothing can be more magnificent ; as *^ appendages to which, there are three more of admi- rable beauty and workmanfliip in the fame church- yard.'* Now there are but two churches entire, St. Mary's and St. James's and the ruins of St, Ed- mund's,* the principal church in the monallery, which is fuppofed .to have been one of the grandeft Gothic ftruftures in Europe. The abbey which was once fo illuHrlous, was firfl built by Sigebert King of the Eaft Angles, foon after chriftianity was planted here by Felix the Burgundi- an, and being finifhed. King Sigebert, about the year 638 retired into it, and fecluded himfelf from all temporal affairs, St. Edmund from whom this town takes its name, was murthered by the Danes, near Hoxne, about the year * A very curious model of this church is to be feen at Mr. Tillot'j on the Angel-hiil : It is ten feet long, five feet wide, and a pro- portionate height, containing 300 niches, and 28c windowSj adorned with images and other Gothic -figures. The model of St, Tdmund's- fiirinc is ornamented with images and cr:.wns gilt, a* in its original ilate, and there are twelve chapels which belonged to this once mag- .aificent church; 302 THE NORFOLK TOUR. year 870, but not buried here till 903. On this ac- count, and through the fuperflition of that age, the revenue of the abbey increafed prodigioufly, and the monks greedy to fvvallow all the prey, under va- rious pretences fecluded all the feculars, and filled their places, with thofe of their own order, the Bene- didlines : this they efFeded about the year 1020, in the 4th year of King Canute, who then laid the foun- dation of a more magnificent church, to the honor of this Martyr ; the former in which his remains had been depofited being but a wooden building, or, at beft, covered with wood. The expence of this fabrick was raifed by an annual tax of 4d. an acre on all ploughed land in Suffolk and Norfolk. It was finifli- ed in about twelve years, and confecrated by Othel- neth, or Agelnoth, Archbifliop of Canterbury, and dedicated to Chrift, St. Mary and St. Edmund. Uvius, prior of Hulm was confecrated the firfl ab- bot, 1020. He firft encompaffed the *abbey, and a part if not the whole of the town, with a wall and ditch, the ruins of which are ftill to be feen in many places. Thus was the grandeur of this abbey begun : its ab- bots were made parliamentary barons, and its wealth yearly increafed, until its final diffolution by Henry VIIL when its yearly revenues amounted to 2,336!. 16s. and the plate, bells, lead, timber. Sec. yielded 5000 marks to the King. There were feveral Hof- pitals belonging to the abbey, the moil famous of which was that of St. Saviour's, within the North- gate, * Mr. King obferves, that the great Gate- way of the abbey is a remarkable fpecimen of Saxon architedlure, and was built in the time of Canute, THE NORFOLK TOUR. 30J gate, in which the parliament met in Henry the Vlth's time ; and it was here that Humphrey Duke of Glou- ceiler was murdered at the infligation of the monks, by the hand of Pole, then Duke of Suffolk. The civil government of the town is now lodged in the hands of an alderman, who is chief magiilrate, - a recorder, twelve capital burgefTes, and twenty-four common burgefTes ; who have the fole right of choofmg their own reprefentatives in parliament. Inflead of the many chapels and oratories which were formerly in this town, there are now only two magnificent and flately churches, Handing in the fame church-yard : The one dedicated to St. Mary, is 139 feet long by 67 feet and a half broad, and the chancel of it is 74 by 68 : The roof of the nave of St. Mary's church is truly magnificent : There is a fine afcent of fix ileps to the altar, on the North fide of which is the tomb of * Mary Queen of France, daughter of Henry VII. and afterwards married to Charles Brandon, Duke of SuiFolk. This Queen of France v/as buried in the great church of the rxionaf- tery, and removed after the dilTohition of it into Sr. Mary's church ; her body is covered with lead, refem- bling an human fhape, and on her breafi is in- fcribcd, Mary Queen of France, 1533." Her tomb v^as not only fimple and unadorned, but for a long feries * When her tomb was repaired, Sir John Cullum Bart, procured a lock of hair from the Corpfe of a bright auburn colour, unin- iured by an interment of 225 years, which he prefented to the late Duchefs of Portland, and at the fale of her Mufcum, in May 1786, it fold for the moderate price of 61. ics. F f 304 THE NORFOLK TOUR. feries of years entirely negleded. It was even with- out any infcription till the year 1758, when Sir John CuUum, Bart, had the tomb repaired at his own ex- peiice, and a marble tablet inferted into it. The other Church, dedicated to St. James, was finiihed in the reign of Edward VL who was himfelf a contributor to it, as appears from an infcription in the church : It is 137 feet long by 69 feet wide, the chancel is 56 by 27 feet ; at the Weil end of the South zile are two large monuments ereded to the memory of James Reynolds, Lord Chief Baron of the Ex^ chequer, and his Lady, who were buried here. In this church is an organ lately ere£led, and a library convenient enough, but which has no curiofities, ex- cept a M.S. of Bede's Ecclefiallical Hifcory, and Demetrius Chalcondyla^s Edition of Homer. The fteeple of the church of St. James, and the abbey-gate, are buildings which mull excite the at- tention of the curious : the former was anciently the grand Portal that led to the great church of the monailery ; the arches of the tower are all round, of a Saxon form, and feem to be much older than Henry the Third's time. The abbey-gate, which conduced you to the private court of the abbot, is a mafler- piece of Gothic architedure ; it was built in the reign of Richard the Second, the Townfmen having demoliihed the former gate in his grandfather's time, upon a qnarrel with the monks. The 'nfide of it is adorned with the arms of Holland^ Duke of Exeter, and of Edward .he Confeficr, who was the favouritie Saint of Richard XL In THE NORFOLK TOUR. In both churches there were formerly great num- bers of infcriptions and effigies engraved on brafs, but they were fcandaloufly torn off and fold, in 1644, for private emolument, by the church-wardens. Nor at the diiTolution of the abbey, could thefe churches efcape the plunder of the great men who were in au- thority under the godly prince. King Edward VT. for they fwept from the altars of them about 480I. worth of plate, and other valuahle ornaments. On the 20th of February^ 1772, feme workmen who were employed in the ruins of the abbey digging for flone, found a leaden coffin, made after the an- cient cuftom, exadlly the (hape of the body. This had been enclofed in an oak cafe, which by the length of time was decayed, but the lead remained quite perfed, and enclofed an embalmed body, as frefh and perfect as at the time of its interment ; the nails on the fingers and toes as perfe(fl as when living, and the h^ir of the head a chefnut brown, with fomc mixture of grey ones. The corpfe was done up in a pickle, and the face wrapped in a fear - cloth. A furgeon in the neighbourhood was fent for, who made an incifion into the breafl, and declared the flelli cut as firm as in a living fubjed:, and there was even an appearance of blood. At this time the corpfe was not the lead noifome, but being expofed to the air it pre- fently became putrid and ofFenfive. The body was cut and mangled, the fkull was fawed in pieces, where the brain feemed wafled indeed^ but perfedlly enclofed in its proper membrane, the cheeks like- wife were cut through, and his arms cut offi and car- ried away. F f 2 It 5o6 THE NORFOLK TOUR. It was foon found that the coiSn contained the re- mains of Thorn as Beaufort, third fon of John of Gaunt, Duke of Lancaller, by his third Duchefs Lady Ca- therine Swinford. He was by his half - brother. King Henry VL created Duke of Exeter, Knight of the Garter, Admiral and Governor of Calais, and in 1410, Lord High Chancellor of England, created Earl of Perth in Normandy, and Earl of Dorfet, in England. He led the rear guard at the battle of Agincourt, valiantly defended Harfleur againft the French, was guardian to Henry VI. and dying at Eaft Greenwich, Jan. I, 1427, was (as he had in his will direded) interred in the abbey church of Bury St. Ed- mund's, near his Duchefs, at the entrance of the cha- pel of our Lady, clofe to the wall on the North fide of the choir. His monument was demolifhed with the reil of that grand building, at the diiTolution, in 1540, The labourers, for the fake of the lead, which they fold for about twenty fhillings, flript the body of its coiRn, throwing it promifcuoufly among the rubbifh ; but upon difcovering whofe it was, the mangled re- mains were inclofed in a ftrong oak coiHn, and bu- ried near the large North-eaft pillar which formerly affiled to fupport the belfry. This Prince v/as grandfon to the vi6lorious King Edward III. — Every humane and fenfiblemind refled$ with horror upon the favage indecency with wh-ich the remains of this Prince has been treated. In this monallery were interred twelve of the an- cient royal family. The rell of the public buildings are the guild-halJ, the grammar 'fchool endowed by King Edward VI« the THE NORFOLK TOUR. 307 the maiket-crofs, the wool-hall, and the fhlre-houfe ; nor muft we omit the butchery. The free grammar - fchool, founded by King Ed- ward VI. was originally in the Eaftgate-llreet, but be- ing inconvenient there, it was removed into the Northgateviireet, and rebuilt by contributions, but King Edward bears the name of the founder ilill. His bull Hands over the door in front, and under his arms at the upper end of the fchool, is this in- fcription : Edward us Sextus pofuit, vlrtutis alumnis. Gratis difce puer, regia namque fchola eil. The church-gate, a noble Saxon flruflure, formerly the entrance to the great church of the abbey ; but iince its difTolution, has been made ufe of as a ftee- ple to St James's church. 'Tis very evident it was not firll intended for that purpofe, by its antiquity, and diftance from the body of the church. Between them there is a coiFee-Houfe. In the church-yard Is Clopton's hofpital, an uniform handfome building. Oppofite to the hofpital, is the houfe of the late John Earl of Briftol. Near this houfe is the fliire-hall, or fefTions-houfe, lately built, in which are held the aflizes for the county. The Guilri-hall gives name to the iireet in which it (lands. It is very ancient, but has been lately much improved, and in part of it, great alterations are made. The town fefTions are held here, corporation members chofen, kc, F f 3, t:,c 3o8 THE NORFOLK TOUR. The market-crofs is a ipacious and lofty bailding, the upper part is converted into a theatre, ufed only during the great fair by the Norwich Comedians. Oppofite the crofs in the fame fquare, ftand the new fhambles, built with free-ftone, in 176 1, at the ex- pence of John Earl of Briilol, AmbafTador at the court of Spain. On the Hog-hill, or beafl- market, ftands the com- mon Bridewell, formerly a Jewifli fy nagogue, built of flint and free-ftone. At the Reformation there were five hofpitals, one college, called Jefus College, in College-ftreet, which is now converted into a workhoufe, fifteen chapels whofe names and places where they Hood are flill known, though the buildings have been immemori- ally defcroyed, together with a hermitage at Well- gate, and thirteen other chapels, whofe places are not known, from the many alterations that time, fire, and other accidents have made in this town ; fo that there have been above forty churches and chapels in all, and moH of them amply endowed, as appears from the value of the firll fruits and tenths, which afforded maintenance as well as employment for forty or fifty clergymen, under a dean and archdeacon, who olnciated in the feveral churches, colleges, chapels, and hofpitals. There are two market-days, Wednefdays and Sa- turdays I the chief market is on Wedaefday, which is very v/ell fuppl led with all manner of provifions. There are alfo three annual fairs ; the firft on Eaf- rer Tuefday ^ the fecond (or three days before the fsafl THE NORFOLK TOUR. 309 feaft of St. Matthew, September 21, and three days after ; but this is ufually protradled to an uncertain length, for the diverfion of the Nobility and Gentry that refort to it : The third is on St. Edmund's Day, November 20. Bury is feventy miles from London, and forty-two from Norwich. IPSWICH. THE fpot on which Ipfwich ftands is fo happily fituated, that it could not fail of inviting inhabitants to fettle here, foon after this corner of the Ifland was peopled. To Grangers who enter the town, either by what is now the London road, or by the Yar- mouth road, it feems to Hand low : But when a tra- veller approaches the town by the ancient London road, which was over Cattiwade and Bourn Bridges, upon Wherflead-hill, he views it to more advantage | fituated, as in fa6l it is, on the lide of a hill, with a South afpedl, declining by a gradual and eafy defcent to the Quay, where the foot of it is wafhed by the Or- well. The foil is moft healthy ; it is fand, crag, or gravel. The hills which rife above it to the North and Eaft, contribute greatly to the convenience of it ; not only as they fhelter the town from thofe bleak and inclement winds, but as they are well llored with fprings of mofl excellent water. The fprings from Cladwell-hills, flow in fuch abundance, that though the greater pare of the town is fupplied from them, they conftantly run wafte in what is cal- led St._ Helen's and St, Margaret's wafh ; and thofe that THE NO-RFOLK TO'UR. that life in oi near Chriil-church park, though they likewTfe hvpiy in^ny houle- with water, do' as con- liantly run waile, down Brook-llreet. Thefe lail are of Hill far grr a ier uk ; for the large ponds at Chrift- church, continaa'ly replenifhed by th^m, through the benevolence and humanity of the owner, are al- ways let out on any emergency ; and therefore may be confidered, as perpetual refervoirs, depofited there by Providence, to fecure and protecl the town from the dieadful ravages of fire. As feveral other towns upon the neighbouring coat, viz. Yarmouth, Aldborocgh, and Orford, take their names from their fituation near the mouths of their refpedive rivers ; fo the town of Ipfwich has its name from being feated where the frelh river Gippen or Gipping, empties itfelf into the Orwell.' It is fpelt in Domefday, Gyppefwid, Gyppefwiz, Gyppewycus, Gyppewic ; afterwards by dropping the Guttural, it was written Yppyfwyche ; and then as our Spelling improved, by leaving out the fuperlluous letters, Ipfwich, The names of th^ frefh and fait river have lately been confounded, infomaich that Mr. Eirby was un- warily led to call the freili river the Orwell ; but their names are plainly diftindl. I'he fait river, or to fpeak more properly, that branch or arm of the fea which flows up to Ipfwich, is called the Orwell, pro- bably from its fpacious- and commodiGus Haven or Harbour. Some think this was the place that the Danes failed up A. D. 1016, when they had a de- fign upon the kingdom of Mercia. The Saxon <^ annals THE NORFOLK TOUR. 311 annals call it Arwan ; and as it may not be un« reafonable to fuppofe the true name of this har- bou may be Arwell ; fo do we find on one fide of it Harwich, and on the other Arwerton.'' It is certain, Henry the fon of King Henry IL who was crowned in his father's life-time, when he con- fpired againft his father, landed here with foldiers from Flanders ; and taking Hugh Bigod with him, marched from hence to Norwich. Here Ifabel, wife of King Edward II. landed from France, when Ihe drove her hufband into Wales. And the XX. of Ed- ward IL [1327] Sir J. Howard had a commiiiion to raife 500 men in Norfolk and SuiFclk, and condud them to the port of Orwell, thence to go to fea againfl the French. And the Earl of Lancafter, XIV. of Edward III. had an aflignment of ten ihips to tranfport his horfe from the port of Orwell to Flanders ; fo that we need not multiply proofs to ftiew that this haven and branch of the fea is called the Orwell, As to the frefh river Gipping, it has three fountain-heads ; one rifes at or near the little village of Gipping, by Mendlelham, td^ which it gives name. Another head rifes near Wetherden ; and the third near Rattlefden. Thefe two laft rivulets unite with the other at Stow-market ; and there the Gipping, thus fupplied, becomes more refpeftable. It is true, the Orwell is fometimes cal- led the Orwell or Gipping, becaufe the Gipping dif- charges itfelf into it at Ipfwich ; but the frefh river Gipping, cannot with any propriety be called the Orwell, becaufe it is no part of the haven : The Thames may as well be called the Swin. Ipfwich Qiz THE NORFOLK TOUR. Ipfwich ilridly fpeaking, that is, within the gates, was not of very large extent. It was inclofed with a rampart and ditch, which was broken down by the Danes, when they pillaged the town twice within the ipace of ten years, about the years of our Lord 991, 1000. But this fortification was repaired and renewed in the fifth year of King John. There are not the leafl remains of more than three of the gates now Handing ; but, it is certain, there were more. For in the ancient partition of the town into four letes or wards, as two of thefe were called Northgate-lete and Weiigate-lete, fo the two others were called Eailgate-lete and Southgate-lete. We read likewife of Lofe-gate, which flood at the ford through the fait river, by what is now the Houfe- of Mr. Trotman. Though the rampart hath in many places been broken through, and in fome entirely levelled, there are Hill confiderable remains of it ; and it is eafily traced from the bowling-green garden (or grey-friars walk) with a road on each fide of it, to theWef!, or St. Matthew's-gate. Hence to Bull -gate, facing WeHgate- Hreet, it is levelled, and the ground built upon. But from this to North-gate, and fo to the end of Crofs-key Hree-t, it is almoH entire. It is alfo viiible at the back of the houfes on the Weil: fide of St. Margaret's vvafh ; and again in the yard of Chrifl's hofpital ; fo that all the parilhes of St. Auftin, St. Clement, and St. Heleo, and great part of the parifhes of St. Mar- garet and St. Matthew, were not included within th^ THE NORFOLK TOUR. 313 the gates ; and thefe are accordingly called in old writings the fuburbs of Ipfwich. But if we confider the borough in a larger fenfe, as including not only the town with its fuburbs, but the four hamlets of Stoke-hall, hrooks-hall, Wikes- uiFord, and Wikes-bifnop, which comprehends the whole precindls and liberties of the borough, the ex- tent of it is very conflderable. For it reaches from Eaft to Well, that is, frorn the place on Ruihmere common, where the bounds of the liberties runniug pall Rufhmere-hall-gate, and along the other lane crofs the Wood-bridge road oppofite to the gallows ; to that place in Whitton-llreet, where the bounds come out of the lane leading from Bramford, crofs the Norwich and Bury road, and then go into the lane leading to W^hitton church, the diilanceis better than four miles. In like manner, from the North to South, or near it ; that is, from that place beyond We He r field green, where the bounds enter the road leading from Witneiham to Ipfwich, and fo to Bourn- bridge ; it is about the fame diftance ; But if, inilead of going to the Weil of the Orwell, you go from the aforefaid place through St. Ciement's-llreet on the Eail-fide of it to Downham-bridge by John's Ncfs^ the diftance is greater* The civil government of the town is veiled in two bailiffs, a recorder, twelve portmen, of whom four are jufcices' of the peace ; a town -clerk ; twenty -four chief condables, of whom two are coroners ; and the twelve fehiors are headboroughs ; a treafurer and two chamberlains, to colledl the revenues of the town; The 314 THE NORFOLK TOUR. The borough fends two members to parliament, who are eledled by the burgeffes at large, in number between 600 and 700. Nine churches are mentioned in Domefday-book, as ftandingin the Conqueror's time: There are now 12« The trade of this town formerly confilled chiefly of the manufadure of broad cloth, by which many large fortunes were raifed. But about the middle of the lail century the manufactory began to decline, and at length totally ceafed, and burthened the town with a vail number of poor. From hence it happened, that many of the better fort of houfes were for a long time empty ; and Ipfwich incurred the cenfure of being a Tonvn without people* The caufe of this defertion having ceafed, the agreeablenefs of the town invited new-comers to fettle here ; the number of inhabitants is increafed to near 12,000; and within fifty years the rents are advanced more than fifty per cent, and more middling houfes are daily wanted. The chief trade is at prefent in corn ; the malting trade is very extenfive, and one hundred and fifty fail of (hips belong to this port. Here are five market days, Tuefdays and Thurf- days for butcher's meat, Wednefdays and Fridays for fiih ; and Saturday is a general market-day for all forts of provifions, cattle, &c. Here are five fairs ; one on Holy- rood- day, O. S. where much bufinefs is done in the two articles of butter and cheefe. One on St. George's day O. S. for toys and lean cattle, chiefly home-bred. St. James's July 25, now not worth mentioning : And two THE NORFOLK TOUR. 3^5 two fairs for cattle on May 18 and 19, and Augull 22 and 23 ; at the laft of which vail number of lambs are conftantly fold, to the amount of eighty, ninety, or fometimes one hundred thoufand. In this town there are five charity fchools in which 116 boys, and twenty-four girls, are educated, clothed and fitted out for fervice, or bound out to fome low trades. This town has lately been much improved by a new pavement, and well lighting the ftreets, BUNGAY. A VERY neat market-town, 14 miles from Nor- wich, and containing about 2000 inhabitants, is de- lightfully fituatcd upon the Waveney, which being navigable from Yarmouth, is a great benefit to its trade; the Waveney divides Norfolk from Suffolk, in the latter of which counties Bungay is built : it fignifies the good Iiland. Here are the remains of a very ftrong caftle, fituated on a high hill, which commands the adjacent fens, and was formerly the feat of the Bigods, Earls of Norfolk, the fite of it is iVill in the Duke of Norfolk's hands, who is alfo owner of the difTolved houfe of Benedidine Nuns, the remains of which are very few, and are landing at the Eall end of our Lady's Church, of vv'hich the Duke is patron, but it having no tithes is of fmall value ; this was in the abbey before its difTolution ; and with the v/hole town, except one fmall ilreet, v/as deftroyed by fire, March i, 16S9 ; the lofs was ^om- G g puted 3i6 THE NORFOLK TOUR. puted at upwards of 29,896!. the town has been re- built and the church repaired, it has a fine double organ, neat font, and in the -South aile, a handfome fquare tower lleeple, in which there is a good peal of eight bells, and a clock ; the chancel was never rebuilt, fo that the altar is at the E aft end of the church, the fteeple Hands at the Weft end of the South aile, the two ailes, nave and North porch are leaded ; the feats are uniform. TRINITY CHURCH, ftands on the other fide of the abbey, the chancel which was burnt down, was never re-built, the altar is placed at the Eail end of the South aile, the fteeple is round and much de- cayed, it has no bells in it, but there is a very large one hanging in a fhed in the yard, with this motto round it. Per me f deles hiuccamur ad preces, anno do- mini 1608. The fteeple was deftroyed in time of divine fervice by a tempeft, which broke all the bells, and fplit it from top to bottom. On the battlements of the upper part, which is odangular, are the arms of Bigod and Brotherton, by v/hich it feems as if the fteeple (or perhaps more likely, the battlements) was built by T. de Brothertons Earl of Norfolk, and the church afterwards given to the abbey, for the tithes are impropriate, and were in the Crown from the Re- formation, till Queen Elizabeth gave them to the Bifhcp of Ely, who now leafes them, referving the prefentation of the Vicarage, which is a good piece of preferment, to himfelf. The South aile and nave are beaded, and the South ricrch tiled. Upon a marble flab in this church is an infcription, in mem-, ry of Mr. I'hornas Stanton, who died April 20, THE NORFOLK TOUR. 317 20, 169 1, He had been Captain of an Eaft Indiaman called the return ; and it is noticed as an extraordi- nary fa£l, that he made the voyage to and from Surat in twelve months. At the foot of the bridge, on the Suffolk fide, there was a fmali chapel, the Eafl end waflied by the ri- ver, bnilt probably for fome hermit placed here : It was taken down 1732 and a granary built in its place. There are two crofTes in the market-place, one for corn, on the top of which (lands an old carved effigies of Juftice ; the other for the butter, &c. The market is on Thurfday, and plentifully fupplied with all kinds of provifions* In Ditchingaam parifli Is a neat convenient bath, and proper reception for batliing, with convenient board- ing for the infirm, 'tis a very cool water, and has been found of fervice in feveral cafes ; it was built by Mr. John King, an apothecary here, who to recommend his Bath, pufalifhed an Effay on hot and cold bathing in 1737. The water in the pump In the King's head yard adjoining to the caftle-hlll, on the Eafl fide, is an ex- ceeding ilrong mineral, and much drank by many peo- ple ; it fecms much of the fame nature and quality with the mineral waters at Aylfliam. SUDBURY, STANDS upon the Stour, which is navigable for barges from Maningtree to this town. It was an- ciently called South-burgh, as Norwich is fald to G g 2 have 3!8 THE NORFOLK TOUR. Lave been called North-burgh. It is a very ancient town ; and at prefent confifls of three parifhes, hav- ing three beautiful and large pariili churches ; St. Gregory's, St. Peter's, and Ail Saints, This town was one of the iirfl: places where King Edward III. put the Flemings whom he brought into England from the Netherlands, to teach the Englilh to manu- fadure their own wool, which has been carried to great extent, in the manufadlory of Baize, Says, and other coarfe kind of woollens, but this is now much upon the decline, and the town is confequently bur- dened by a very numerous poor. It is a town-corporate, governed by a mayor, iix aldermen, twenty-four capital burgeiTes, and other in- ferior officers. It has divers privileges, and fends two members to parliament. His Grace the Duke of Grafton takes the title of Baron from this place. It was made a Mayor Town by charter, ann. i, and 2, Phil, and Mary. Q^Eliz. J^/zo Regini I. confirmed divers privileges to it, among which was that of fend- ing BurgeiTes, the fivR retern of them being made that year. * Simon Sudbury, v/ho was Archbifhop of Canter- bury A. D. 1375^ beheaded by the rabble in Wat Tyler's infurredicn, v/as a native of this town : He built the upper end of St. Gregory's church ; founded a college v^here his father's houfe flood, and endowed it fo well that it was of the value of 122I. 1 8s. per ann. when it was fupprefied. He is alfo faid by * His fcuU 13 faewn by the Cierk, who fells the teeth and re« places them. THE NORFOLK TOUR. 319 ^ by Leland, with John de Chertfey, to have founded a priory here of the order of St. Auflin ; though Weaver afcribes it to one Baldwin of Shipling (Shimp- ling perhaps) and Mabil his wife. WOODBRIDGE TOOK its name from a Wooden-bridge built over a hollow way, to make a communication between two parks feparated by the road which leads by Wood- bridge market-place towards Ipfwich. At the foot of the hill from this hollow-way, about a flone's-throw from whence the bridge might ftand, is a houfe, which at this day retains the name ofthe dry-bridge. The river Deben on which this town is fituated, dif- charges itfelf into the fea about ten miles below it, and is navigable up to the town. Flere are two quays, the common quay where the chief imports and exports are, and where the line Woodbridge fait is made ; and above this is the lime-kiln qnay, where formerly the Ludlow man of war was built. Some years fince there was another dock below the common quay, where the King'-fifher floop was built ; , but this is now Ihut from the river by a mud wall, and almofl filled up. The church and lleeplc are beautiful buildings, the former is faid to be founded by John Lord Segrave. On the South-fide of the church Hood a priory of black canonS;, founded by Sir Hugh PvOus, or Rufus, as Weaver calls him, to which one Hanford was a con- fiderable benefactor. It was valued at 50I. 3s. 5d|. per 3 2d THE NORFOLK TOUR. per ^nn. and granted in 13 Henry VIII. to Sir John Wifjgfield and Dorothy his wife. It is a good old feat, now the Eftate of Francis Brooke, Efq, The town traded much in fack cloth ; the chief manufac- ture now is fait. It has a pretty good market on Wednefdays. This was granted in the reign of King Henry III. There are two fairs yearly, on March 25, and September 21, In the midfc of the market- place is the fliire-hall. where the qiiartei-feilions for the liberty of St. Etheldred are holden under which is the corn-crofs. The market-place is clean and well-built, and fo is the fcone-ilreet^ fo called be- caufe it was the only part of the town which was paved. But the flreet called the thorough-fare, as being lituated in the road from Ipfwich to Yarmouth, is now iikewife well paved, and kept fo clean that it will tempt the fubilantial inhabitants to build and dwell there. Here is a free grammar- fchool for ten boys, and an alms-houfe for thirteen poor men and three women. NEW« MARKET, AT the extremity of the county, is a well-built thorough - fare town^ con lifting chiefly of one long ilreet, fo fituated that the North-fide of the ftreet is in Suffolk, and the South-iidein Cambridgefhire. There are two churches, St. Mary's in SuiFolk, and All- Saints in Cambridgelhire. His Majefty has a houfe here, for his refidence during the races, which was built by King Charles II. and there are many neat modern houfes, built by noblemen and gentlemen ; and feveral good inns, where, though the ufe of figures is pretty well underfcood, the accommodations in ge- THE NORFOLK TOUR. 321 neral, are excellent, and, th^y who on a plan of osconomy, or in expedation of better entertainment, go fixteen miles further towards London, rather than flop here, will be much difappointed. There are two annual fairs, one on the Tuefday in Whitfun-vveek ; the other Odober 28. Here is alfo a good market on Tuefdays ; and a free- fchool, which was endowed by King Charles II. The town is fup- ported not by merchandife or maniifadures of any kind, but by its iituation upon a confiderable road, and by the company which frequent the horfe-races on the neighbouring heath. About two miles Well of the town is the Devil V dyke, by the vulgar fo called, who readily afcribe to him what they cannot rationally account for. It is alfo called Reche-dyke, from a little market-town at the beginning of it. From Reche it croffes the heath near to Stickworth. It was formerly the boundary be- tween the Eaft-Angles and the Mercians ; and is now the boundary between the Bifliopricks of Norwich and Ely. It is uncertain who was the founder of fo great a work ; fome afcribe it to King Canute, but that cannot be true ; for Abbo, who mentioned it, died before Canute began his reign : Eelides, the pur- pofe for which he is faid to have done it, was far from being equivalent to the expence of fuch a work, viz. as a mark beyond which the King's purveyors were not to come towards Bury. It is mofl probable, it was call up in the reign of King Edmund ; for Matthew Florilegus declares, that the battle againfl Ethelwolf was fought between St. Edmund's two ditches. The other ditch is about five miles farther towards Cam- bridge, now called 7. mile-dyke ; formerly fleam-dyke. 322. THE NORFOLK TOUR. THOMAS CAVENDISH, efq. the fecond Engllfii- man who circumnavigated the world, formerly lived at Grimflon-hall, in the parilh of Trimley St. Mar- tin in this county. This gallant officer, fitted out three (hips, at his own expence, againfl the Spaniards, viz. the Defire, burden 120 tons ; the Content, of 60 tons ; and the Hugh Gallant, a bark of 40 tons. On board thefe Ihips he had no more than 123 hands. With this inconfiderable force he failed from Plymouth on the iiTi of |aly 1586. In February following he pafTed through the ftraits of Magellan, and enter- ed the South-feas, plundered and burnt the towns of Faita, Pi^na, Acapulco, Natividad, Acatler, and feveral other on the coafls of Chili and Peru, After which he attacked, and took the St, Anna, a large Acapulco fhip of 700 tons, in his ownftiip, the Defire, in which he had not above 60 men ; yet with thefe he ] attempted to board the St. Anna ; and though he was twice repulfed, at the third attack he took her with little lofs. What lofs the enemy fuflained is not faid ; but Captain Cavendifn fet 191 prifoners on fhore at Puerto Seguro, and brought olF feven with him to ferve as pilots, linguifls, &c. He took in this prize 122,000 pezos of gold, each pezo being of the value of eight fniilings ; befides a great quantity of other rich merchandife, altogether amounting to more than 6o,oool. After this he touched at the Philippine lilands, and returned home by the Cape of Good Hope, and St. Helena, and arrived at Plym.outh Sep. 9, 1588. In his fecond voyage, 1591, after paffing the llraits of Magellan on the 20th of May 1592, he was parted from his fleet in the night, and never heard of fince. A LrST of the TOWNS and VILLAGES in the County of NORFOLK, fhevving the Hundrtds in which they lie, and their Diilance in Meafured or Computed Miles from the City of NORWICH. Towns. A CLE Alburgh Alby Aldeby Aldborough Alderford Alpington Althorpe Appleton Anmer Antingham Arminghali Armingland A/hby Afliby Afhill A/hmenhaugh Alhwelthorpe Afhvvicken A flatten Attleborough Attlebridge Ay L SHAM Aylmerton Babingly Baconfthorpe Badon Bagthorpe Baie or Bathley Baniiam Banningham BartorL Barme: Barney Barnham Broome Barningham(Little) Barningham (N. wood) Barningham (Town) Barton Bendifli Barton Turf Barwick Baiham (Eaft) Bafham (North) Baiham (Weft) 'ns are diftlnguinied by Small Capitals. Hun. M Wali. r I BaiTingham N. Erp. 17 Ears. ' 5 BaHiwi'Clc W. FL tj S. Erp. I A BawburgH Fore. 5 Clav. i6 Bawdefwell Lyns. 12. S. Erp. Savvfcy Fr. L. 3« Eyns. 8 Bayfield Holt 23 Lod. Q y Beckham (Eaft) N. Erp- 19 Gall. 24- Beckham (Weft) S. Erp. 18 Fr. L. 3^ Bedingham Lod. i& Fr. L. 2d. Beech am ivpM Clac. 31 N. Erp. 14 Beefton Laun. 20 Hens. Beefton Tav. 4 S. Erp. J Beefton St. Laurcixcc Tunf. 10 W. FJ. J Beefton Regis N.Erp. 20 Lod. 8 Beetley Laun. 2C Way. Rpt on tr\i\ Wals. 10 Tuns. 8 Belaugh S.Erp. S Dep. 8 Belanffh Ey nf. Fr. L, Bpfoli A nfrtja Clav. 7 Dep. Shrop. 12 Shrop. 12 I r D Rpirwpll Clac. 3S Tav. 8 Ears. 18 S. Erp. II Billingford Eynf. r4 N. Erp. 18 Bi Hock by W . FL 13 Fr/L. Bilnev fFafl'^ 2 1 S. Erp. Iq y Fr. L. 3^ Tuns. I 7 Binham N. Gr. GalL Bintry Eynf. Holt 21 Bitrnflm fC^rf^2t\ 35 Guilt. 16 Birch am Newton Smith. S. Erp. i2 Blrcham Tofts Smith. 35 Fore. y Bittering 22 GalL 28 Bixley Henf. 3 N.Gr. 24 Blakeney Holt. Fore. 10 Blickliag S. Erp. '3 S. Erp. '5 Blofield Bio. 6 N. Erp. 16 Blo-Norton Guilt. 21 N.Erp. 17 Bpdham Holt. 20 Clac. 3<^ Bodney S. Gr. ^3 Tunf. IC ^Jooton 3. Erp. 1 1 Smith 28 Houghton Clac. 38 Gall. ^7 Bowthorpe Fore. 4 GalL ^3 Bracon Afh Hum. 6 GalL Bradenham (Eaft) S, Gr. 1 20 3Z4 TOWNS IN Towns. Hun. M. "Bradenham (Weft) S.Gr. 21 ,3rad field Tunf. i6 Biadiftori Bio. 6 Bramertoti Henf. 4 Brampton S. Erp. 9 Branc after . Smith. 38 Brandift^a Eynf. 9 Brandon Little ForCc 9 Breed es Waye 18 Brett^nham Shrop. 22 Bridgeham Shrop. 23 Briningham Holt 19 Brinton Holt 19 Brifley Laun. 19 Briffingham Difs «§ Brifton Holt «7 Brockdifti Earf. 12 Bromehill Grim. 3« Bromefthorpe Gall. 3^ Broome Lod. «3 Brooke Clav. 6 Brand ail 81o. 5 Brunftead Hap. 16 Buckenham Bio. 9 Buck IN HAM New Shrop. ^5 Buckenham Old Shrop. 16 Buckenham Tofts Grim. 23 Bunwei Dep. ^3 Burlingham North Bio. 9 Burlingham South Bio. 9 Burlingham St. And. Bio. 9 Burgh Holt 18 Burgh Su Peter Clav. Burgh W. Fi. M Burgh S. Erp. ic Burnham Depdale Bro. 34 Burnham Norton Bro« 33 Burnham Overy Bro. 33 Burnham Thorpe Bro. 3^ Burnhain Ui. & Sutton Bro. 32 BuRl^HAM WeST- Bro. 32 Burfton [gate Difs ^5 Buxton S. Erp. 8 Caifter E, FL 19 Caifter Henf. 3 Caldecote S. Gr. ^5 Cakhorpe S. Erp. 1.3 Cant ley Bio. 10 Csrferoke Way. NORFOLK. TownSe Hun. M. Carleton Lod. % Carle ton Eaft Hum. 5 Carleton Forehee Fore. 9 Carleton Rode Dep. 14 Caftle Acre Fr. L. 29 Caftle Rifing Fr. L. 39 Cafton Way. 2Z Catfieid Hap. H Catton Fav. 2 Cawfton S. Erp. II Chedgrave Lod. 10 Chofeley Smith. 34 Claxton Lod. 7 Clench war torn Fr. M. 43 Cley Holt ^5 Clippelhy W. Fl. 14 Cockley Cley S. Gr. 2-8 Cockthorpe N.Gr. Colby S. Erp. 10 Colkirk Laun. 22, Coiney Hum. 3 Coltiihali S. Erp. 7 Colton Fore. 7 Colvefton Grim. 27 Congham Fr. L. 3S Corpuftey S. Erp 16 Coftefey Fore. 4 Cofton Fore. 8 Cranwick Grim. 27 Cranvvoith Mit. iS Creak North Bro, 30 29 Creak South Bro. Creffingham Great S. Gr. 23 Creflingham Little S. Gr. Crimplefhara Clac, 3^ 3 Cringleford Hum. Cromer N.Erp. Croftwich Tav. 6 Croftwick Tunf. (€ Crownthorpe Fore. I© Croxton Grim* Croxton palL It Darftngham Fr. L. 38 Dalling Field N. Gr zz Dalling Wood Eynf. 14 Deepham Fore. C! Denver Clac. 4® Denton Earf. 57 DsREHAM East Miu 16 TOWNS IN NORFOLK. Tdivns. Hun» TV/f Towns. t)erthaim Well Franiham Little E>ickleburgh; U 1 1 s I? Freethorpe 1 UIll. I 2 Frenz-C Diliington Laun* i y Frettenham Diss Fling Ditchingha m Lod. ^ ritton Docking Smith. Fulmonderton! Doughtoni ili vj an. 20 r undenhail Down HAM 42 Garboidiiham Drayton Tav. 4 Garvefton Didiingcon S. Gr. 2g Gafiihorpc' Dunham Great Laun. Z4 Gately Dunham Uctle Laun. ^ 5 Gate fend' Danfton rl u m 4 v-rayton Dunton Gall. Gayton Thorpg Earfiiam Earf, [ 1 Gay wood^ Eafton ore. _ D Geldeftone Eccles Shrop# ^7 O^ilJmgham Ail b'amts Eccies nap. 1 0 Oiliingnam bt. Mary Edgefield rioit» '9 V-rimingham Giffing; Edingthorp e 1 uni-» Egmere EUingham Eliingham IN • Or. 2.9 Glanford' v>iav. Godvvick, Great Shrop . Gooderftone Ejlingbam Little Way. GreHiam Eimham North Grelienhall' Elfing ni ■ ^ ' Grimfton Emneth rr. iVl. Grifton Erplngham J. £iovci» Holt 18 Fottifigton Way. 26 Swardeflon Hum. 4 Tiimingham N.Erp 17 Syderftone Gall. 3® Frowfe Newton Henf. z Syderftrand N.Erp. 18 N.Erp. 16 X acoinciion Dep. 9 X uuuwnnam £>aii Mit. 9 T'o fUii rt»K 1 aiDurgn Dep. I uuucnnain piuriii Mit. iz 1 aticriora Gall. Waif. 11 Tatterfet Gall. ^5 Tunftead Tunf. 9 Taverhain Tav. 6 Xuttington S. Erp. ^4 i. crringiOii »jw« jwim Fr. M. 48 Twiford Eynf. '5 X crringtou ot. wiciii' Fr. M. 46 Upton Waif. 10 I eiterton Gall. »9 \> pweii Clac. 50 1 nariioii Dep. 10 yy s.y uoinc Holt ^5 nci VCLOU Difs 18 Dep. iz Tbcmilthorpc Eynf. M w acion .Jt. lYiary Dep. iz Thztford Shrop. 29 WaJcote Hap. 16 Thirne W. Fl. '3 1 i ! n&fon Clac. 40 Thompfon Way. .8 w aipoiv- ot» 1 cLcr Fr. M. 47 Thornage Holt 19 vv aipoie OL. .rirxurcw Fr. M. 47 Thornham Smith. 4c AT Q U A XM ^sS r» B T W Tunf. X norpc ^oDuis Earf. 17 Walfham South Waif 10 Thorpe Difs. 17 VY aiiingiiaiTi v^ia N. or. 28 Thorpe Clav. '3 ^/V^ alsinghamI^itt. N. Gr 27 Thorpc Bio. 2 ^Valfoken Fr. M Thorpe Market N.Erp 15 Walton Eaft Fr. L. 33 Thorpland Clac. 12 Walton Weft Fr. M 48 Threxton Way. I 5 Warham N. Gr ^9 Thrigby E. Fl. I c Waterdcn Bro. 26 Thurgarton N.Erp i6 Warlington Clac. 42 ThurUon CUv. 1 < Way. 21 TOWNS IN NORFOLK. Towns* Hun. M. Towns* Hun. M. Waxham Hap. iS Winfarthing Difs iS Weafcnham St. Peter Laun. 28 Winterton W. Fl. 20 Weafenham Ail Saints Laun. 28 Witchingham Great Eynf, Weeting Grim. 33 Witchingham Little Eynf. 9 Welborne Fore. 9 Witlingham Henf. 3 WelHngham Laun. Z2 Witton Bio. S Wellney Ciac, 46 Witton Tunf. Wells N. Gr. 31 Wiveton Holt ^3 Wendling Laun. 19 Wolfertofl Fr. L. 3^ Wereham Clac. 3« WoUerton S. Erp. 14 We ft acre Fr. L. 30 Woodbaftick Waif. S Weftfield Mlt. 14 Woodnorton Eynf. 20 Wefton Evnf. Woodrifing Mit, J 5 Weftwick Tunf. 1 1 Wood ton Lod. lO Whetacre Clav. ;? Wootton North Fr. L. 4® Whinbergh Mit. ^3 Wootton South Fr. L. 40 Whiffonfet Laun. 22 Wormegay Clac. 36 Whitwel Eynf. I ] Worftead Tunf. 14 Wickhamptosi Waif. 12 Worthing Laun. H Wicklewood Fore. JO Wortwell Earf. 17 Wickmere S. Erp. 14 Wramplingham Fore. 7 Wiggenhail St. Mary Fr. M. 40 Wrenningham Hum. 7 WiggenhaliSt.M. Mag Fr. M. 4c Wretham Eaft Shrop. 26 Wiggenhail St. Geim- W^iggenhali St. Peter Fr. M. 40 Wretham Weft Shrop. 25 Fr. M. 40 Wretton Clac. 39 Wighton N. Gr. 29 Wroxham Tav. 6 Wiiby Shrop. li Wymondham Fore. S Wilton Grim. 36 Yarmouth Ec Fl. 22 Wimbotfliam Clac. 4c Yaxham Mit. 13 Winch Eaft Fr. L. Yeiverton Henf. 6 Winch Weft Fr. L. Names of the Hundreds in the County of Norfolk, as they are con- traded in the foregoing Table. Bloc im Bloiield S.Gr. i or South Grcenhoe Bro. Brother Crofs N. Grim. North Grimflioe CJa€» Ckckclofe Guilt. Guiltcrofs Glavering Hap. Happing Dep« DepwaLinftable Pring ^ylcfbury rhame Dxford Wiiney 3urford Bibury Zlirencefter ratbury PettY France Bath See another RoaJ, p. 3^4- To BRISTOL To Petty France as above Poft Mile; H lo 7 lo 10 7 jc 7 ic '5 Brought forward Harborough Lutterworth Coventry Meriden Colefhill Litchfield Wolfaley Bridge Stone Woore Nantwich Tarporley Chtfter 195 17 To HEREFORD From NORWICH To BIRMINGHAM To Meriden as above Birmingham To Newmarket as before 50 Cambridge 13 Huntingdon 16 Thrapfton 17 Wellingborough 1 1 Nortliampton JO Daventry 12 Southam 10 Warwick JO Stratford on Avon 8 Alcefter % Droitwich 34 Worceftcr 7 Ledbury 16 Hereford 36 Or To Worceftcr as above 186 Broon^} ard J4 Hereford J4 214 Poft Miles 11 14 '5 6 6 IS 9 Jz ^3 9 30 10 ^35 J5t 165 To LIVERPOOL From NORWICH To Dereham 16 SwafFham iz Downham 14 Wi/beach 13' Peterborough ai N. B. ByThorney (to avoid 7 the Bank) Wansford Uppingham Leicefter Loughborough Derby Aflibourn Leek Macclesfield Knutsford Warrington Prefcot Liverpool To CHESTER To Thrapfton as before 9^ Kettering Carried ovex J'-^3; J 2X 8 14 20 Ji J7 13 15 13 12 II J2 230 To MANCHESTER To Aftibourn as before* Buxton Difley Stockport] Manchcftu J59 20 9 7 7 20a I 334 ] Poft Mile; * Another Road n Derby and AJhbourn To Wilbeach as before 51 Long Sutton ic Spalding 33 Donningtoa ic Folkingham \ Grantham * Bingham Nottingham Derby A&bourn 12 J5 10 16 21 162 Set amthtr Road to Grant hami belowe Andtber Road to Mak Chester, (through Matlock and the Feak cf Derbyfi 'tre*) To Nottingham as bafofc 1 35 Alfreton 1 8 Matlock 9 Bake well ^ 10 Chapel in Frith * 14 Difley 7 Stockport 7 Manchefter 7 2,05 Another Road (By Newark and Manifield») To Grantham as before 108 "Newark ^4 Southwell 8 Mansfield 1 2 Chcfterfield 1 2 Middleton 1 1 Chapel in Frith 12 Manchefter as above 21 Brought forwari Newark Southwell Mansfield Chcfterfield Sheffield Pcnifton Huddersfield Halifax To LEEDS From NORWICH ToNcwarkjby Peterboro* 7 as before j N. B. By Spalding iiz Scarthing Moot Tuxford Barn by Moor Bawtry Done after Ferrybridge Leeds To HALIFAX From NORWICH T^ Wansford, fe€ Road to \ Liverpool 3 Stamford Greetham "Witham Common Colfterworth Grantham * Canied over Poft Milef. 109 14 8 12 12 It 13 It io3 To YORK. To Ferrybridge as above Tadcaftcr York To LINCOLN From NORWICH To Wift)each as before Long Sutton Spalding DonningtOM Folkingham Sleaford Lincoln 125 lA 2." IS 5 li ^93 17S 199 Another Road to Bath> 5