% \ A ' ' >- ' Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2019 with funding from Getty Research Institute https://archive.org/details/descriptionofvie00burf_43 ■sr \ : ;m f: k; i . . • ll*i )lo ii -'oT fans iio c [ .12 .oJeO ob’! ’) . 2L: . 0)0 DfifoflM .1-2 ' . rr l r ) : c'r nn3 lo inavnoO .o*w.!ji4 fuoi v.i>i-..!‘ jdM ,ni'jr, i r . ^ tab ffonifl) .OC. A Description of a View o/LIMA, now exhibiting at the Panorama, Leicester Square 1. Cathedral. 2. Calle (Street) de Indios. 3. Cabinet of Minerals. 4. Church and Hospital of San Andres. 5. Church and Convent of San Pedro. 6. Monastery of Santa Rosa. 7. Manastery of Santa Catalina. 8. United States’ Consulate. 9. Church and Monastery of La Tri- nadad. 10. Morro Solarand Chorillas. 11. Church and College de Huerfannas. 12. Church and Convent de la Mercea. 13. Hospital of Jan Juan de Dios. 14. Church of Saa Juan de Dios. 15. Church of N a . S a . de Belen. 16. United States Charges d’Affairs. 17. French Minister’s Residence. 18. Church and Convent of San Augustin. 19- Church of San Marcelo. 20. Island of San Lorenzo. 21. Port and Town of Callao. 22. Callao Gate. 23. Monastery de las Nazarenas. 24. Pacific Ocean. S3 25. Church of San Sebastian. 26. Church and Convent of N a . Sa a . de Montserrate. 27. Calle (Street) de Valladolid. 28. Casa de Maternidad. 29 . Sanctuary of Santa Rosa. 30. Church of Santa Maria de las Cabesas. 31. Hill and Paseo de los Amancaes. 32. Convent of San Francisco de Paulo. 33. Church and Convent of Santo Domingo. 34. Church of San Lazaro. 351 Old Alameda. 36. Archway leading to the Bridge. 37. Mountain of San Christoval. 38. Church and Convent de Desamparados. 39. Circus for Bull Fights. 40. New Alameda. 41. River Rimac and Valley of Lurigancho. 42. Palace. 43. Cabildo, or Town Hall. 44. Plaza Mayor, or Great Square. 45. Cordilleras, or Snowy Range of the Andes. 46. Cemetery. 47. Church and Convent of San Francisco. 48. British Consulate. 49. Ecclesiastical Palace. 50. Church del Segrario. PRINTED BY T. BRETTEEL, RUPERT STREET, HAYMARKET. DESCRIPTION A VIEW OF THE CITY L I M A, AND THE SURROUNDING COUNTRY, NOW EXHIBITING AT TUE Pmm/hM/Av LIQ(giiT[EK PAINTED BY THE PROPRIETOR, ROBERT BURFORD, > 'to -Jill. f !)H ! i From DRAWINGS taken by Lieut. W. SMYTH, R. N. in 1834. LONDON: PRINTED BY T. BRETTELL, RUPERT STREET, HAYMARKET. 1836. •U«»M i T. • .I;i 111 •. • : . V . n f L I M A. The metropolis of Peru (the once glorious land of the sun), is a magnificent city; for situation, extent, and population, unequalled by any other in South America ; it stands on the southern bank of the River Rimac, in a spacious and delightful valley, nearly 500 feet above the level of the sea, and is enclosed on three sides by beautiful hills, and mountains of considerable elevation. From an observatory (of which there are several attached to private houses), whence the present Pano¬ rama was taken, the summits of the cathedral, the towers of San Francisco and San Domingo, together with the numerous coloured spires and steeples of the various churches and convents, rising amidst groves of orange and lime trees; and the surrounding luxuriant country, backed by the snow-clad Andes, form a scene not easily to be surpassed in interest, beauty, or extent. Eastward is seen the great square, surrounded Ipy singularly ornamented buildings, amongst which, the noble cathedral stands boldly prominent; beyond the city, the Rimac winds through the beautiful and fertile valley of Lurigancho, and the view is closed by hills of every variety of form and colour, above which tower the lofty and snow-clad summits of the Cordilleras of the Andes. To the south lies a fine and most prolific country, bounded by mountains, stretching to the sea-coast, ending in a bold and rocky promontory, called the Morro Solar, nine miles from the city. On the west is the Alameda, or public pro¬ menade, through which the road is seen gradually descending to the port of Callao, six miles distant, where the view is bounded by the shipping in the harbour, the barren island of San Lorenzo, and the blue and peaceful waters of the Pacific ; and on the north, beyond the Rimac, is the populous suburb of San Lazaro, enclosed by the noble Amancaes, and other hills and mountains (being spurs or portions of the Cordilleras), stretching from the sea-coast on the west, to the lofty San Christoval on the east, forming a magnificent boundary to the view. Lima was founded in January 15J5, by Francisco Pizarro, as the future capital of the Spanish conquests in the land of the Incas. Several situations had been fixed on and tried, during the two preceding years, particularly Jauja, where an university and several public institutions were founded ; all, how'ever, were abandoned ; at last the valley of Rimac having been suggested, commissioners were despatched who having reported favourably, the buildings were commenced with great religious ceremony, and it was named “ Ciudad de los Reyes/' or “ City of the Kings,” but was more generally called, excepting in legal deeds, by its present name, from the valley and river Rimac, corrupted by Spanish pronunciation and orthography into Lima ; it shortly became, and con- 3 tinned to be, for nearly three centuries, one of the richest and most populous of the cities of this celebrated country ; indeed, so great was its wealth at one period, that on the arrival of the Duke de Palata as viceroy, the streets through which he passed were paved with ingots of silver; but the beauty of its situation, fertility of soil, and mildness of climate, which make it an earthly Paradise, barely compensate for the continual danger it is menaced with from earthquakes; scarcely a year passes without several shocks, and on many occasions the city has suffered most severely from these awful visitations, particularly in the years 1586, 1630, 1687, and 1746; by the latter, two-thirds of the houses and churches were thrown down, the crops destroyed, and the country for miles rendered unproductive for several years. '1’he struggle for freedom, the events of which are too well known to need repetition, was of course detrimental to the prosperity of Lima; the eflects of war, and of the contributions levied by contending armies, are everywhere apparent; the convents no longer make the same ostentatious display of the precious metals and jewels, nor are the people so rich and luxurious ; but the city is fast recovering; many new sources of wealth are opened ; and should it not be again the scene of war, promises to regain much of its ancient grandeur, and be really what it is now called, “ The City of the Free.” Lima is built on ground gradually sloping from east to west; its form approaches to an oval, being on the side next the river above two miles in length, and from north to south, in its widest part, about a mile and a quarter ; it is surrounded (with the exception of that portion on the bank of the river) by a wall of adobes, or large unburnt bricks, nine feet in thickness, and from 15 to twenty feet in height, having 34 bastions, but neither platform or embrasures, erected in 1685, by the Duke de Palata, principally as a defence against the Indians; there are seven principal gateways, one of which opens on a fine bridge of stone, crossing the Kimac, to the large and populous suburb of San Lazaro. The city is divided into 209 Quadras, or squares of buildings, of about 150 yards frontage on each side, near the walls they are of course not quite so regular ; the streets, of which there are 355, are perfectly straight, inter¬ secting each other at right angles; they average about 33 feet in width, but are badly paved with small sharp pebbles, and very narrow footways; most of those running from east to west, have acequias, small rivulets of water, about three feet in width, constantly flowing through their centres, forming receptacles tor all kinds of filth, which, if too large to be washed away, is cleared off by the Gallinazos, a species of Turkey buzzard, the only scavengers of Lima. The number of churches, convents, and other religious buildings,is very great; there are 28 convents, 14 monasteries, and six beaterios, &c\, where the nuns do not profess absolute seclusion ; in 1790, these houses contained above 5000 persons, many of them, however, have been suppressed since the revolution ; and the present inmates are scarcely one-fourth of that number; these establishments were formerly extremely rich, some few are so still, but all have been more or less plun¬ dered during the war ; in 1820, more than a ton and a half of silver was taken from them at one time; many of the churches belonging to the convents, as well as the cathedral and parish churches, are fine buildings, with lofty Lowers and steeples of wood, plastered and ornamented, so as to resemble stone. The charitable institutions are numerous, and well conducted ; there are seven large hospitals, and two convalescencias ; and 4 it was formerly said, that there was not a city in the world, where so many alms were distributed as in Lima. The houses, which number about 3941, are generally of only one story, never more than two; they are built round a patio, or open court, which, if large enough, is planted, otherwise frequently painted as a garden, and in the hot weather is covered by an awning of linen; the entrance into the patio from the street, is through a large heavy puerta- calle, or gateway, and most of the windows open into it, giving a heavy and mean appearance to the external parts ; the lower walls of the houses are formed of sun-dried bricks, of clay and cut straw ; the upper story is a framework of wood, interwoven with canes or wicker-work, covered and ornamented with hard plaster, giving them the appearance of stone ; many are decorated on the outside with fresco paintings of various subjects; some have even the architectural ornaments, porches, and porticos, painted, in a style that, at a short distance, has all the appearance of reality. The roofs are flat; and, as it never rains in Lima, are simply covered with wicker-work and plaster, having large and clumsy projectures, for the admission of light and air to the upper apartments ; these azoteas, or terraces, form pleasant promenades, and being ornamented with flowers and shrubs, in pots, much increase the beauty of the city. A large, heavy, enclosed balcony, generally projects from the second story; and the lower windows, which very few have, are enclosed by a rejas, or light iron trellis-work, painted or gilt; the shops are mostly open, without glass windows, and the goods are displayed on tables in front; the pulperias, or liquor shops, are numerous, and are the scenes of much dissipation and brawling. The interior of the houses of the better class are splendidly furnished, papered, or hung with silk, and ornamented with a profusion of gilding; the bed-rooms are particularly costly, with hangings of silk or velvet, marble tables, and silver utensils; the more ordinary have the floors of Dutch tiles, and the walls covered with cloth, painted in various designs. The population of Lima is estimated at 60,000, of which number about one-fourth are Creoles and Europeans. In 1810, the number was 87,000. Although by no means so rich as before the revolution, yet the Limenians are equally addicted to show and extravagance, passionately fond of dress, costly jewels, splendid equipages, and numerous retinues : they are volatile and improvident, much given to dissipation, and cannot be extolled for cleanliness ; smoking is not confined to the male sex, ladies frequently enjoy the segar, to counteract the effects (as they say) of the heavy dews. Want of occupation leads to indolence and vice, conse¬ quently luxury and libertinism have been their characteristics for ages. In dress, the fashions of Europe are making considerable progress; the Spanish cloak, formerly so universally worn, is now seldom seen but at night, or in cold weather ; but it will be long before the “ saya-y manto,” a disguise so well adapted for intrigue, is relinquished. This exceedingly unique costume, so peculiar to Lima, is generally worn by all classes offemales as a walking dress ; itconsistsof a saya, or petticoat, of velvet, satin, or stuff, laid in very line longitudinal plaits, so as to be perfectly elastic ; it is fastened round the waist by a band and buckle, and descends to the ankles ; as scarcely any clothing is worn under it in warm weather, it sets close to the limbs, defining the contour of the figure to the best advantage, distinctly showing the muscular play of the body and limbs, and the rich fulness of person (a sure sign of health in a warm climate) 5 for which the ladies of Lima are celebrated. The lower part of the saya, which is ornamented with fringe, lace, spangles, or flowers, being too scanty to allow the wearer to step forward freely, a short, mincing, but not ungraceful walk, is the consequence, which exhibits to perfection the neatly turned ankles and very small feet, in which they glory, and the elegant silk stockings, and pretty satin shoes, which are always worn. The manto is a cloak, or hood, of thin crimped silk, generally black, drawn round the waist so as to meet the top of the saya, and then turned over the back of the head, enclosing the arms, and being held close in front by one hand, completely envelopes the upper part of the person, leaving one eye alone visible ; the disguise is thus so complete, that the wearer cannot be recognised by her most intimate friends, consequently, she goes wherever and does whatever she pleases, without fear of detec¬ tion. Ladies of the first rank will sometimes disguise themselves in the meanest sayas, and when thus “ tapadas/’ visit the houses of those who give parties, to which they are not invited, lean in at the windows and converse with the gentlemen, and sometimes even enter and partake of refreshment. Another feature peculiar to the ladies of Lima, which at first sight shocks Europeans, is that, when on horseback, they always sit straight on the animal, in the manner of men ; the dress is then European, with a large shawl over the crown of the head, and a manilla hat above all; the satin shoes are also encumbered by huge gold or silver spurs, with immense rowels. EXPLANATION OF THE ENGRAVING. 1.— Cathedral. This noble building, the first stone of which was laid by Pizarro in person, is dedicated to St. John the Evangelist; it stands on a platform, elevated about ten feet above the Plaza; the facade is extremely ornamental, and has large folding doors in the centre, with smaller ones on either side, the whole profusely ornamented with coloured Corinthian columns, and effigies of saints; and surmounted by a balustrade. The octagonal steeples on either side are nearly 200 feet in height, ornamented with Corinthian columns, cornices, and mouldings; they were erected in 1800, the others bavin 0 * been thrown down by the earthquake of 1740, and weie painted in 1832 , they contain a number of fine-toned bells, a clock, &c. The interior, which is 320 feet in length, bv ISO in breadth, is Gothic, in good taste, and is divided into three naves (the central being three steps higher than the sides), by two rows of square stone pillars, with arches above, on which rests the finely-carved roof; the walls of this church, as well as the pavement, are wholly of fine freestone, being the only one in Lima so built. Eighteen small chapels occupy one side of each of the lateral naves - there are also four at the sides of the choir, which is, as usual, in the centie , the °reat altar is 45 feet in height, and 22 in breadth, a most splendid piece of archi¬ tecture which was formerly entirely cased in silver ; the table, custodium, &c., are of delicate workmanship; the pulpit and throne, finely carved and gilt, and the hundred stalls of cedar wood, elaborately carved, are said to have cost 30,000 dollars. There are two immense and melodious organs, and a well-trained body of choristers; there are not any seats for the congregation, each female bringing a small rug, on which she sits on the floor in the centre, the men standing round. Behind the great altar is the Chapel of San Francisco Xavier, in which are the marble monuments of 6 several archbishops, and beneath is the Boveda or great vault, which contains the bones of Pizarro, and many persons of distinction ; when this church, on festivals, is ornamented with its splendid hangings, of which it has two sets (one purple, for Lent), and lighted by thousands of tapers in lamps and candelabras of silver, the magnificent services of gold and silver plate displayed, the numerous priests in their robes, the officers of state, and military in full costume, it presents a coup-d'ceil of splendour, scarcely to be imagined. Beneath the Cathedral is a row of small shops, called “ Cobachuelas,” principally occupied by shoemakers ; in one of these resided Don Ambrosia Higgins, a pedlar, who, having failed, went to Chile, and entered the army ; he here obtained promotion, discovered the City of Orsono, was created a marquis, and finally returned to Lima in 178G as viceroy, where, by a similar coincidence of good fortune, he found his old friend and brother pedlar, La Reguera returned from Spain shortly before as arch¬ bishop. At the back of the Cathedral, and consequently not seen, is the Universidad deSan Marco, in the Plaza del’Inquisition, a handsome building containing several large halls, a library, chapel, and theatre ; it was established in 1553, by a decree of the Spanish Emperor, and is consequently the oldestinthe New World. In 1570, the pre¬ sent structure was commenced, and a certain sum appropriated for its maintenance, arising from the tributes paid by the Indians; as they decreased, other funds were supplied by the state, and the generosity of individuals ; it at present receives the aid of congress, and an annual bull-fight; there are professors of the usual branches of scholastic learning, mathematics, natural history, and chemistry ; there are six pro¬ fessors connected with the medical departments; the pupils usually reside within the walls. The House of Representatives occupies one of the halls of this establishment, the president’s chair is at the end, and the members have two rows of fixed seats along each wall; a gallery round three sides is appropriated to strangers; near it 'is also a well-supported Lancasterian school, opened in 1826. 4.— Hospital de San Andres. A large building, containing several well-ventilated wards, in which neat and clean beds, about six hundred in number, are placed on each side in small alcoves, so con¬ structed, that, in case of necessity, a second row, equal in number, can be placed above them; it is appropriated solely to white persons; when they enter their clothes are taken from them, and no money is allowed to be in their possession ; a good botanical garden, with lecture and dissecting rooms, are attached to this establishment. Adjacent is the Colegio de Medicina, dedicated to San Fernando, built by the Viceroy Abascal, for the study of medicine and surgery. In the drug department, prescrip¬ tions are made up by regular professors. Physicians and surgeons are not allowed to dispense medicines, they must all be made up here, or at licensed chemists. 5. — San Pedro. A large convent, formerly belonging to the Jesuits, latterly to the congregation of S. Felipe Neri; the church has two spires of good elevation, coloured red, and is altogether a very handsome building. One of the large halls of the convent contains the public library; it was instituted in 1821, by San Martin, who presented a consi¬ derable number of works, the remainder were taken from the libraries of the different convents; there are altogether about 11,000 volumes, many of them very rare and curious. A reading room is attached, supplied with maps, newspapers, and perio¬ dicals, which is open every morning, and is well attended. 7.— Monastery of Santa Catalina. A small monastery, at the south-eastern extremity of the city, close to a gate called by the same name. The Fort of Santa Catalina is in the same neighbourhood, but not seen ; it is defended by two bastions, mounting several guns, and contains the artillery barracks, military depot, and armoury. 10. — Morro Solar. A bold and lofty promontory, which juts a considerable distance into the sea, it is about three leagues from Callao, from whence the shore takes a beautiful sweep, forming a fine bay. On the summit of the rock are the remains of a fort and tele- 7 graph, and it commands an extensive view over the Valley of Rimac to the city, immediately below the. mountain is the Indian Village of Choriilas, the fashionable watering place of Lima; it is a poor place, containing about 300 houses, the natives subsist principally by supplying the city with fish ; during the hottest months numbers resort here to enjoy the bathing, all then is feasting and dissipation, tertulias, gambling, and dancing, from morning till night. 11. — College de Huerfanas. The Foundling Hospital was founded in 1597, by Luis Pecador, for the support of children deserted in the streets by their unnatural parents ; by the aid of charity, a suitable house and chapel were soon provided, and in 1048, seventy nurses were employed ; the first building was destroyed by the earthquake of 1687, rebuilt, and again destroyed in 1746. 'I bis excellent institution is at present in a very flourishing state, above 100 nurses being employed, the children are received in a turning box, clothed, educated, and taught some useful trade; coloured children are educated as servants, and sent out at eighteen. Near it stands a similar institution, called the Hospital de Ninos expbsitos, founded in 1654, by Mateo Pastor de Velasco, an apothecary and agent of the Inquisition, for the reception of abandoned Spanish female children, who are received, nursed, and educated, until of sufficient age to gain their own subsistence ; if married from the institution, a small dowry is given with them. 12. — Convent de N. S. de la Merced. A small convent, with a very large and particularly handsome church; the order being confined to natives, is neither numerous nor rich; it is military, and collects alms for the redemption of Christian captives ; the buildings suffered greatly during the revolution, and are now in a state of decay. 18. — Convent de San Augustin. A convent of the second order, one of the richest and oldest in Lima, having been founded in 1550. It was formerly of very considerable exteut; but in 1825 the minister, Monteagudo, caused part of it to be taken down to widen the street and plaza before the theatre. The various courts are surrounded by cloisters, the priu- pal being ornamented as usual with Dutch tiles, and paintings of the saint; the church is small, the front is covered with carving, and figures of saints, Augustin himself being over the entrance, the interior is light and elegant, with much gilding ; the friars formerly numbered 100; there are now scarcely 40. Immediately behind the convent is the Coliseo Comico, a small but very handsome theatre, its form is nearly half an oval, the stage being its widest part, so that the front boxes are very close to the performers; there are three circles of boxes, all private, holding eight persons each; the benches in the pit are divided into single seats, and have backs, they are exclusively for men ; at the back, under the boxes, is an open area without seats, for the lower classes ; the gallery is appropriated to females, who are generally of the lower orders; the nights of performance areThursdays, Sundays, and holidays, excepting Lent; the scenery is good, and the performances respectable. In 1831-2, an Italian opera company met with considerable success. Between the acts, each man in the pit draws out his flint and steel, lights his segar, and puff's away furiously, until the business of the stage recommences, many gentlemen, and frequently ladies, in the boxes, follow the example. Adjacent is the royal cock pit, which was erected in 1762, and belongs to the Hospital of San Andri?s; it is a large amphitheatre, sur¬ rounded by nine ranges of seats, and 29 boxes or apartments above, approached by an external gallery and staircase. The mains are generally fought by daylight, and much gambling, the bane of both the males and females of Lima, ensues. 20 .—San Lorenzo. A barren island, extending across the Bay of Callao, from S. W. to N. E., pro¬ tecting the anchorage from heavy seas or gales of wind; it is about 15 miles in circumference, composed of sand, with strata of hard black rock, and has the appearance of having been separated from the main by some early convulsion of nature. Some slight signs of verdure appear during the winter months, as it is then constantly enveloped in a damp fog. The highest point is 600 feet above the level of the sea. This island was the only burial place, for several centuries, allowed to Pro- 8 tcstants, who died at or near Lima ; no sum of money could purchase admittance into the consecrated places; but since the revolution, a piece of ground near the city has been appropriated to the purpose. 21. — Callao. The Port of Lima, on the Pacific, six miles from the city ; it is a large dirty town, with from 7000 to 8000 inhabitants, principally persons connected with the port, and mariners; the churches and houses are small, and of the most ordinary description ; there are three forts, the best built of any erected by the Spaniards in South America; they are called the North and South Batteries, and San Felipe on La lndependencia. In the last, which was erected in 1747, are good storehouses, barracks, &c.,and under the bastionsa series of gloomy vaults, memorable as the miserable prisons of hundreds of patriots. These forts were gallantly and obstinately defended in 1825-6, for 13 months, by Rodil, during which time, of 4000 persons who retired there for safety, amongst whom were the celebrated Torre Tagle, his family, and many Spaniards of rank, all but 200 died from the effects of famine and epidemic disease. The mole, which runs about 100 yards into the bay, is formed of a 60 gun ship, sunk for the purpose in 1779, lengthened by rows of piles filled in with stones. The original town of Callao lies at a short distance; it was destroyed by the earthquake of 1746, at which time the sea suddenly receded a considerable distance, immediately returning with such force that it completely overwhelmed and destroyed the town, leaving only two persons alive out of its 3000 inhabitants. 22 .—Callao Gate. A stone gateway of three lofty arches, commanding, and in good taste; on the inside is a wide street, commenced by San Martin, but never completed Beyond the gate the road passes through, or rather forms part of the Alameda, planted by the Viceroy O’Higgins, in 1799, which extends about a mile and a half; but had the plan been finished, would have continued the whole distance to Callao. 26. — Convent de N. S. de Montserrate. A small establishment of the Benedictine order, in a state of ruin, the abbot being at present the sole occupant. 29- —Sanctuary of Santa Rosa. The sanctuary of Santa Rosa, the patroness of Peru, is a small elegant building, belonging to the Dominicans, she having been a Beata or devotee of that order. Santa Rosa was a native of Lima, having been born on this spot in 1586, after a life of great sanctity; she died in 1617, and was canonized in 1671, being the only creole saint upon whom that honour was ever conferred by the Catholic church. In the small chapel, which is very rich in curious relics, was formerly a pair of dice, with which it was said Jesus Christ frequently amused the saint by playing a game with her, when she was much exhausted by prayer and penance ; her festival is held in the great square, on the 30th of August, with a procession from S. Domingo, great pomp, festivity, fireworks, &c. ; she is said to have foretold the independence of her country, when the dominion of Spain had lasted as long as that of the Incas. 31. — Amancaes . The most elevated point of these hills above the Gorge, or Valley of Amancaes, is 2560 feet ; so soon as the season of garrua or fog commences, the lower parts of the hills and the valley is clothed with vegetation, and thickly sprinkled with a species of yellow narcissus, or daffodil, called Amancaes, at which time the Indians bring their flocks here for pasture. On the days of St. John and St. Peter, a sort of festival is held, when thousands repair from the city to gather the flowers, drink milk, eat custards, rice milk, &c.; and the days are passed in dancing, singing, and rural sports. 33. — Convent of Santo Domingo. This large convent, which occupies a whole square, is finely situated on the bank of the river; it is divided into four quadrangles, each surrounded by corridors; the principal cloister is eiegant, with pillars and arches of stone, the walls being covered 9 below with Dutch tiles, and above with paintings of the miracles of the Saint; it lias also a small garden and fountain ; the church, which stands at one corner, is magnifi¬ cent, and has the loftiest tower of any in Lima, it being Cl yards high, which formerly contained a peal of fine-toned bells, most of which have been taken down. The interior is 300 feet in length by 80 in breadth ; a double row of square pillars, painted and gilt, support an arched ceiling, divided into panels by gilt mouldings, many of the panels containing scriptural subjects in fresco ; the high altar is of the Ionic order, with pillars painted to resemble marble, and a profusion of gilding; near it is the altar of the patron saint; also that of our Lady of the Rosary, formerly the richest in Lima, having been of pure silver, finely chased, and in parts richly gilt. 1 he riches contained in this church before the revolution defy description ; the display of the precious metals in tables, vases, lamps, &c., tiie gorgeous dresses of the Madonna, covered with jewels and precious stones, and so numerous, that site never appeared in the same twice in one year, the sumptuous robes of the priests, and the number and value of the sacred vessels, w'ere unparalleled in any country. '1 he number of friars was formerly ICO; in 1833 they were reduced to 53. The various buildings suffered much from the patriot troops quartered here by San Martin ; but it is still considered as rich as any in Lima : connected witli this con¬ vent are the congregations of the ten tribes of Africans in Lima, who here worship their respective patrons. 34 .—Church of San Lazaro. The parish church of the extensive suburb of San Lazaro has a noble facade towards the bridge, and is altogether a very handsome building; the interior is orna¬ mented in good taste, the ceiling panelled in carved work, and the various altars splendidly gilt and varnished. 35 .—Old Alameda. The old Alameda was laid out by the viceroy Monte Claros, so long back as the year 1G11. It resembles the others in its arrangement, and has three fountains in the central road : at its northern end stands the church and convent of Los Descalzos, or barefooted fiiars of the Franciscan Order, who by begging, constantly maintain a table for the poor; on the left hand side is the Beaterio, or house of female seclusion, called the Patrocinio ; and on the right, the small convent and chapel of Santa Liberata ; the viceroy Amat commenced a large tank and fountain in this neighbour¬ hood, but it has never been completed. 36 .—Archway leading to the Bridge. A handsome archway, of considerable elevation, crowned by turrets, w ith a clock in the centre, leads to the bridge, which is a handsome structure of stone, forming the only communication between the city and the suburb of San Lazaro; it was erected hi 1013, by the viceroy Monte Claros; it has five circular arches, with piers which project considerably on both sides, to the westward being round, to the eastward pointed, to resist the current, which is here very rapid, from a considerable fall in the river just above, which forms a sort of cascade. The upper part of the bridge is without balustrades, but has a row of stone seats on each side, which in fine weather are filled w ith fashionable company from eight until eleven o’clock in the evening. 37 .—Mountain of San Christoval. A portion of the Andes, which approaches very close to the city. It is about 1170 feet in height. At the top is a cross of large size, erected to the honour of San Christoval, and to commemorate a miracle which he performed in favour of the Spaniards, a few years after the foundation of Lima. An army of 70,000 Indians besieged the new city, and were stationed principally on aud about this hill: when¬ ever they attempted to descend to attack the Spaniards, the river suddenly rose, and many were drowned; but when the Spaniards commenced the attack, commend¬ ing themselves to the protection of San Christoval, the river remained shallow and fordable, to the great terror of the Peruvians, who, with such a singular miracle against them, were soon defeated. 10 38. — Convent de Desumparados. The house of refuge for the abandoned, founded by the viceroy Gonde de Lemos, in 1670, for the reception of indigent and depraved females, where they were pro¬ vide^! for, and mild means resorted to, to induce a return to virtue. At the dour ot the church of this convent, the unfortunate victims of the Inquisition were delivered to the ordinary ministers of justice for execution at the stake, which stood near the Plaza de Tor os. 39. — Bull Ci r cus. The circus for bull-lights, w ithout which no Spanish city is complete, is a capacious building of wood, about half a mile from the city. The area is about eighty yards in diameter, with a safety station in the centre, composed of strong poles, placed sufficiently apart to allow' a man to pass, but not a bull; round the area is a barrier seven feet in height, also furnished with narrow openings and gates, for the admission of the bulls, horses, &c.; above this are eight rows of seats ; still higher, supported on pillars of brick work, are the boxes and galleries of the president and the princi¬ pal spectators, to which admission is gained by small external staircases; the whole will hold about 12,000 persons. Since the revolution the bull-fights have not been so frequent, nor so fashionably attended as before. 40. — New Alameda. This very pleasant promenade and drive is, including the Paseo Militar, nearly a mile in length ; it commences a short distance from the bridge, following the northern bank of the river; the road to the feitile and beautiful valley of Lurjgancho passes through it. A wide carriage way in the centie is flanked by foot walks on each side, under the shade of double rows of willows, and numerous brick seats afford accom¬ modation to the loungers; the whole was formed and planted by the viceroy Amat. Here, as in the other two principal Alamedas, at the fashionable hour, is to be seen a sample from every class of society in Lima, from the highest votary of rank and fashion to the meanest slave; women in the gayest and newest fashions of Kurope, the gaudy shawl and guayaquil hat, or the showy saya and black silk manto, conceal¬ ing the face and exposing the person; the descendants of the children of the sun in more humble apparel, half clothed blacks and mulattoes, and persons of various countries In the drive are carriages termed calesas, with heavy bodies hanging low between the large wheels, gaudily painted in the Spanish fashion, the horses or mules gaily caparisoned, and postilions and footmen in tawdry liveries; also old and shabby Valentins, officers in splendid uniforms, and natives of both sexes mounted and equipped alike, with full ponchos, and high-crowned, glazed, manilla hats, high- pommelled saddles, and large stirrups of wood or silver; to these may be added, monks and beggars, both asking alms in the name of the Virgin, or some favourite saint, and venders of ice, chieha, and argnardienti, bawling with all their lungs. 'Towards the eastern extremity of the Alameda, are the Banos Publicos, a commo¬ dious, and, in summer, much frequented establishment; one very large public bath is enclosed by walls, having a roof of trellis work covered with vines; ihere are also twenty private baths, about six feet square each, all supplied from a spring of pure limpid water. 41. — River Rimac. A river of small importance ; it rises in the province of Huarochira, and receives during its course several small streams, produced by the melting of the snow on the Andes or the rains which fall in the interior. In the summer, or wet season, the water passes with extreme rapidity ; at other times, its bed is nearly dry, and can be easily forded at any part. The water, being extremely impure, is seldom used for domestic purposes. 42. — Palace. The Government House is a Targe but not handsome building, of a red colour, with an ornamented portico ; it has also three other entrances, in three separate streets, of which it forms one side ; the front is 480 feet in length, the sides 410, with several courts and gardens. .Shops of the meanest desciiplion occupy the front of the ground floor, the folding doors of which, thrown open, are covered with old clothes, shoes, and multifarious wares; above is a long gallery with seats, which, on 11 •lays of public exhibitions in the J’laza, were bung with green velvet; the interior, which still retains some of its former splendour, is a strange mixture of poverty and magnificence; the rooms are mostly long and narrow, and but badly lighted'; the Hall ot the Viceroys contained a series o( portraits, commencing with Pizarro ; and it is a curious fact, that at the revolution there was not a single panel unoccupied, nor room for another portrait, without removing one of the old ones. 44. — Plaza Mayor. The great square of Lima is of considerable size, and has been the scene of many remarkable events in the history of the city, festivals, executions, processions,