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From the Library of 
 Frank Simpson 
 
HANDBOOK FOE TEAYELLEES 
 
 m 
 
 NORTHAMPTON SHIEE 
 
 AND 
 
 RUTLAND. 
 
HANDBOOK FOB TBAVELLERS ^ 
 
 IN 
 
 NORTHAMPTONSHIRE 
 
 AND 
 
 RUTLAND. 
 
 WITH MAP. 
 
 LONDON: 
 
 JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 
 
 1878. 
 
 The right of Translation is reserved. 
 
LONDON : 
 
 PHINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, 
 
 STAMFORD STREET AND CHARING CROSS. 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 The present Handbook for Northamptonshire and Rutland 
 has been drawn up after many visits to both counties. The 
 general arrangement is the same which has been followed in 
 other volumes of the English series. 
 
 It would be impossible to mention in this place all those 
 from whom the Editor has received valuable assistance. But 
 his thanks are especially due to Sir Henry Dryden, of Canons 
 Ashby ; to the Venerable Lord Alwyne Compton ; to the Rev. 
 Nicholas Lightfoot, Rector of Islip ; the Rev. Henry Ward, 
 Rector of St. Peter’s, Aldwinckle ; the Rev. H. J. Bigge ; the 
 Rev. F. Curgenven, Rector of Byfield ; and to Samuel Sharp, 
 Esq., of Dallington Hall. 
 

 ... 
 
 . • - 
 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 Introduction .. .. .. .. .. .. .. ix-xxxi 
 
 SECTION I.— NORTHAMPTONSHIRE. 
 
 ROUTE PAGE 
 
 1. London to Northampton , via 
 
 Blisworth (London & N.W. 
 Railway) . . . . . . 1 
 
 2. Northampton to Peterborough 
 
 (Earl’s Barton , Higham Fer- 
 rers , Fotheringhay . Exc. 
 from Peterborough, Crow- 
 land), London and N.W. Rail- 
 way . . . . . . . . 14 
 
 3. Peterborough to Stamford 
 
 (Burghley, Barnack) . . 86 
 
 4. Northampton to Rugby ( Wee- 
 
 don, , Baventry ), Railway . . 105 
 
 5. Northampton by Towcester to 
 
 Stratford-on-Avon ( Canons 
 Ashby , Edgehill). Railway 123 
 
 6. Banbury to Northampton, 
 
 Farthingho to Brackley. 
 Railway . , . . . . 152 
 
 7. Northampton to Rugby, by 
 
 Road ( Althorj i, Holdenby) . . 157 
 
 ROUTE PAGE 
 
 8. Northampton to Market Har- 
 
 borough (Railway). Brix- 
 wortk , Naseby . . . . 173 
 
 9. Northampton to Kettering , 
 
 by Aoac? . . . . . t 182 
 
 10. Kettering to Stamford, by 
 
 Aoa<i (Boughton, Geddington, 
 Deane) . . . . . . 188 
 
 11. Kettering to Rockingham, by 
 
 Road) . . . . . . 195 
 
 12. Wellingborough by Rail to 
 
 Market Harborough (Roth- 
 well, Rushton) . . . . 200 
 
 13. Rugby to Market Har- 
 borough ; M. Harborough 
 
 to Stamford, by Rail . . 207 
 
 14. Thrapston by Rail to Ketter- 
 ing .. .. .. 211 
 
 13. Thrapston to Kimbolton, 
 
 by Rail. (Rounds, Stan - 
 
 wick) .. .. ..211 
 
 SECTION II.— RUTLAND. 
 
 ROUTE PAGE 
 
 1. Stamford to Melton Mowbray 
 
 (rail). (Ketton, Normanton, 
 Oakham, Lang ham) . . 215 
 
 2. Manton to Rockingham, by 
 
 Uppingham (road). (Ly id- 
 
 din j ton, Stoke Dry . . . . 222 
 
 3. Oakham to Clipsham (road), 
 
 ROUTE PAGE 
 
 Burley-on-the-Hill, Cottes- 
 more, Greet ham . . . . 228 
 
 4. Stamford to Stretton (road). 
 
 ( Tickencote , Empingham, 
 Fxton) . . , . . . 231 
 
 5, Stamford to Essendine (rail). 
 
 (Ryhall) 236 
 

 
 
( is ) 
 
 SECTION I. 
 
 NORTHAMPTONSHIRE. 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 Page 
 
 Extent and General Character . ix 
 
 Geology ..*.,**. x 
 
 History xiv 
 
 ... Pa S e 
 
 Antiquities xviii 
 
 Resources and Manufactures . xxii 
 
 Travellers’ View — Hotels . , xxiii 
 
 [In the following Introduction reference is made to the Routes in which the place 
 mentioned are described. The reader will find the exact page by turning to the Index. 
 
 Extent and General Character. 
 
 § I. The county of Northampton, the “ midmost of the midlands,” 
 extends in a wedge-like form, three times as long as it is broad, for 
 seventy miles from N.E. to S.W. ; from Crowland Bridge, where it 
 joins Lincolnshire, to Aynho, where it has Oxfordshire for a neighbour. 
 The breadth varies, but is nowhere greater than twenty-six miles. “ It 
 bordereth,” says Fuller, “ on more counties than any other in England, 
 being nine in number. . . . It is as fruitful and populous as any in 
 England, insomuch that sixteen several towns, with their churches, 
 have at one view been discovered therein, by my eyes (other men have 
 discovered two-and-thirty), which I confess none of the best ; and 
 God grant that those who are sharper sighted may hereafter never see 
 fewer. Sure I am that there is as little waste ground in this as in any 
 county in England (no mosses, mears, fells, heaths (Whitering but a 
 beauty spot), which elsewhere fill so many shires with much emptiness) ; 
 Northamptonshire being an apple, without core to be cut out, or rind to 
 be pared away.” — Worthies, What Fuller wrote of Northamptonshire 
 in the middle of the seventeenth century is still true, or rather has 
 become more true. There is little unproductive land ; the agriculture 
 of the county is uniformly good ; and the population is considerable 
 for the area. The county contains 629,912 statute acres, of which 
 580,000 are arable and pasture. The population in 1871 was 243,891, 
 (122,859 males, 123,032 females.) (The census of 1801 showed a popu- 
 
x Boundaries — Geology. Introd. 
 
 lation of 131,525.) Those parts of Northamptonshire not included in 
 the arable or pasture lands, represent ancient forest or modern plan- 
 tation. 
 
 § II. The boundaries of the county appear to be somewhat arbitrary, 
 although the Cherwell in the S.W., the Welland for a considerable 
 distance on the N.W., the Ouse and the Towe in the extreme S.E. 
 corner, and the Nen between Fotheringhay and Peterborough, become 
 the limits of the shire. This arbitrary character of the boundaries is 
 due partly to the want of marked natural features, and in a greater 
 degree, as is probable, to the circumstances under which the shire was 
 first formed (see post, History ). The rivers of Northamptonshire are 
 all “ natives.” “ Independent of all other counties, it distributes its own 
 streams in every direction, from the two great watersheds, one lying 
 between Brackley and Banbury, whence flow the Cherwell, the Ouse, 
 and the Learn ; while from Naseby height the Nen, the Welland, and 
 the Avon flow in opposite directions into the Wash and the Bristol 
 Channel.” — James , ‘Hist, and Antiq. of Northants.’ The principal 
 watersheds of central England thus fall within # the boundaries of 
 Northamptonshire ; and the western heights of the county overlook the 
 broad central plain of the midlands. This western and south-western 
 border is broken, varied, and picturesque, although the hills nowhere 
 rise for more than 700 or 800 feet above the sea. (Naseby is 697 ft. ; 
 Arbury Hill, near the source of the Learn, is 804 ft.) But the eastern 
 and central parts of Northamptonshire are certainly not picturesque. 
 Although the ground is not level, its undulations are monotonous, and, 
 “ aggravated by the ever recurring ridge and furrow, are not relieved by 
 much beauty of timber.” These are Horace Walpole’s “dumpling 
 hills of Northamptonshire.” At the same time there are occasional 
 scenes of considerable beauty, especially where the trees of some great 
 park, such as that of Althorp or that of Castle Ashby, form a rich and 
 orest-like foreground to the open country which spreads beyond, and 
 into a far distance. 
 
 Geology. 
 
 § III. The outlines of Northamptonshire scenery, and the form of 
 ground throughout the county, result, of course, from its geological cha- 
 racter. The whole of the county lies within the great belt of Jurassic 
 (oolitic and liassic) formations which extends across England from the 
 coast of Dorsetshire to the Humber, and thence to the north coast of York- 
 shire. This belt is nowhere characterised by very lofty hills ; but it is 
 by no means destitute of picturesque scenery, and is nowhere altogether 
 level, although many portions of it are low, and unmarked bv any special 
 features. In Northamptonshire it rises into high table-land at Naseby, 
 and along the border of Warwickshire ; a table-land which, as has 
 already been said, forms the great watershed of central England. The 
 Jurassic belt (which, in geological series, lies between the Trias, or 
 New Bed (below), and the Weald clay and Cretaceous deposits (above), 
 
Northants. 
 
 Geology. xi 
 
 consists in Northamptonshire of the Lias, which, is the great basal 
 formation, with a thickness of about 850 feet (Lower Lias 650 ft., 
 Middle Lias or Marlstone, 30 ft., Upper Lias from 150 to 200 ft.), and 
 the Oolite, divided into Inferior and Great Oolite. The Inferior Oolite, 
 which rests on the Upper Lias, contains, first, the beds of Northampton 
 sand, in which is the Ironstone rock, and the so-called “ Lower Estua- 
 rine ” series ; and then beds of Lincolnshire Limestone (so called because 
 traversing Rutland, and extending into Lincolnshire, it there attains its 
 greatest thickness), and Colly weston slate. The Great Oolite contains 
 the Upper Estuarine series, Great Oolite limestones, and Great Oolite 
 clays. The Lias and Oolite thus represent the whole range of secondary 
 formations in the county. But the high ground is “ frequently capped 
 with a thick bed of Boulder clay and Glacial gravels, containing frag- 
 ments from nearly the whole series of Primary and Secondary rocks, 
 Liassic, Kimeridge clay, and Oxford clay fossils being frequently found 
 beautifully preserved in masses of septaria. The valley gravels abound 
 With large tusks and teeth of Elephas antiquus, E. primigenius, and an 
 Elephas of an intermediate species ; and teeth of Bhinocerus tichorinus, 
 bones of Hippopotamus major, teeth of Equus caballus and E. fossilis, 
 the core of a horn and part of a frontal bone, of Bison priscus , and a 
 head of Bos primigenius have also been found. The peaty fluviatile 
 bed above the gravel contains at its base numerous remains of the 
 aboriginal small ox, Bos longifrons, red deer, horse, wild boar, with 
 human skulls, &c.” — S. Sharp . 
 
 § IY. The Lias, which forms the foundation of the whole district, is 
 exposed in the valleys. In the N.W. portion of the county the Lower 
 Lias prevails. But the Liassic formations are nowhere so important as 
 the Oolitic, in the beds of which occur the mineral wealth — ironstone, 
 building-stone, and slate — of Northamptonshire. 
 
 The clay of the Upper Lias is much worked for brick-making, but 
 the product is not of very high value. “ This clay abounds with 
 palaeontological remains, such as those of large Ichthyosauri and Teleo- 
 sauri, Ammonites and Belemnites, Gryphcea, Astrea, and other bivalves. 
 It has also yielded an unique crustacean, a clawless lobster (like a 
 large prawn), Peneus Sharpiil — S. S. The Middle Lias is an abun- 
 dant water-bearing formation, and from this, by a well 168 ft. deep, 
 the Water Company of Northampton furnishes to the town a copious 
 supply of pure and not hard water. It is characterised by the presence 
 of Bhynchonella tetraedra, very large Pecten cequivalvis, &c.” — Id. 
 
 The lowest important series of the Oolitic beds is that of the North- 
 amptonshire sand, in two divisions. The aggregate thickness is about 
 80 feet ; and it is the lower division which yields the iron ore, which has 
 been worked from about the year 1850, for which the county has now 
 become famous. (See Wellingborough, Kte. 2 ; and Rte. 14, Thrapston to 
 Kettering.) The ironstone occurs in its greatest thickness in the 
 neighbourhood of Northampton. It is quarried largely at Duston, 
 B1 is worth, Gay ton, and Stow-Nine-Churches to the W. of Northampton ; 
 and at Cogenhoe, Wellingborough, Finedon, Woodford, Cranford, Glen- 
 
Xll 
 
 Xntrod. 
 
 Geology. 
 
 don, and other places E. and N.E. of Northampton. It ranges in this 
 section as far as Stamford, where it is quarried on the estate of the 
 Marquis of Exeter. Throughout the county about 20,000 tons of 
 the ore are excavated weekly, yielding nearly on an average 40 per 
 cent, of pig iron. The ironstone, it should be said, is of the same 
 character as that of the Cleveland and Middlesborough district in York- 
 shire ; where it is found, not in the Oolitic series, but in the marlstone 
 of the Middle Lias. Both formations, however, belong to the same great 
 J urassic belt. It is to be noted that, although it is certain that the 
 ironstone of both Yorkshire and Northamptonshire had been recog- 
 nised by the Romans, and had been worked by them, and afterwards 
 during much of the medigeval period, it nevertheless lay neglected in 
 both counties from the middle of the fifteenth century, and its extent 
 and value were altogether unknown until about the year 1850, when 
 there was a simultaneous re-discovery of its importance. In North- 
 amptonshire the opening of the mines, or quarries, as they should rather 
 be called, is due to the energy of the late S. H. Blackwell, of Dudley. 
 He was undoubtedly the first person who made use of the ore. Much 
 building-stone, easily worked and richly coloured, is also raised from 
 the beds of this lower division. 46 They are highly fossiliferous, and 
 have yielded many species not known in other districts ; among these 
 are — a starfish, Stellaster Sharpii, and the bivalves Lima Sharpiana , 
 L. Dustonensis , L . Deltoida , L. Rodburgensis , and a large Lima allied 
 to L. Grandis. There have also been found Trigonia Sharpiana , a 
 tooth and pelvic bone of Megalosaurus , and a dorsal scale of an unde- 
 scribed species of Teleosaurus” — 8. S. 
 
 The upper division of the Northampton sand consists of a nearly 
 white siliceous sand, frequently intercalated with clay ; sometimes suffi- 
 ciently indurated to constitute a good building-stone. This is the 
 44 Lower Estuarine” series, and, 44 as indicated by the presence of plant- 
 remains, much drifted wood, certain bivalve and univalve fossils, and 
 by the frequent occurrence of ripple-marked surfaces, it had partly an 
 estuarine and partly a littoral origin.” 
 
 Above the Northampton sands there occurs, at Collyweston and 
 Easton (see Rte. 10), a slaty bed, which is largely used in the dis- 
 trict, — the slate having formed, from an early period, the prevalent 
 roofing material of the locality. (For the distinctive fossils found in 
 these slate-beds, see Rte. 10.) Above, again, are the so-called Lincoln- 
 shire limestones, the characteristic stone of the northern division of the 
 county north of the river Nen. 44 The lower beds are for the most 
 part marly and soft, and occasionally supply a pure, cream-white stone, 
 well adapted and much used for interior domestic work, and for carved 
 work in churches. Higher beds yield good rough durable building- 
 stone, and are traversed by a very shelly and partially crystalline bed, 
 the stone of which, taking a good polish, has been termed the 4 Stamford 
 marble,’ and is very ornamental for chimney-pieces. The whole of 
 these beds are quarried extensively for lime-burning, the lime produced 
 being of excellent quality.” — S. S. The beds above these are those of 
 the Ketton freestone and the Barnack rag . Both of these are famous 
 
Northants. Geology • xiii 
 
 building-stones, well known and used from a very remote period. (For 
 Ketton , which is just across the border of the county, see Rutland , 
 Rte. 1.) The Ketton stone is not very fossiliferous, but has yielded 
 the characteristic forms — Terebratula fimbria, Rhynconella spinosa, R. 
 Crossii, Pholadomya fidicula, P , Zietenii, Trigonia hemisphcerica, 
 Pterocera Bentleyi, Natica Leckhamptonensis, Cidaris Fowleri, C. 
 Wrightii , numerous fine corals, Aroides Stutter di, and other plants. 
 The Barnack rag (see Rte. 3) is very shelly, and some beds seem to be 
 composed almost entirely of shells agglutinated together by a calcareous 
 cement. The quarries at Barnack have been exhausted for nearly four 
 centuries, and the stone is not worked elsewhere. 
 
 § V. The lowest beds of the Great Oolite are ferruginous and argil- 
 laceous, and are rich in fossils. The clays have yielded remains of a 
 gigantic crocodilian saurian, the Cetiosaurus. Above come limestone 
 beds, the stone from one of which, at Alwalton, near Peterborough, 
 takes a good polish. “ The detached slender columns of the beautiful 
 Early English west front of Peterborough cathedral were composed of 
 this marble ; but, they having become decomposed from atmospheric 
 action, another material has been substituted.” From a bed of this 
 Great Oolite limestone at Blis worth two examples have been obtained 
 of a fish not found elsewhere — Pholidophorus Flesheri. The bed at 
 Kingsthorpe has yielded a fine cone of a pandanaceous plant, allied to 
 the screw-pines of Norfolk Island ; and in the neighbourhood of Oundle 
 has been found an elegant little star-fish, having five attenuated and 
 tortuous rays, which has been named Ophiurella Griesbachii. The 
 uppermost beds of the Great Oolite are Clay, Forest Marble, Corn brash, 
 and, over all, the Oxford Clay, yielding numerous ammonites, belem- 
 nites, large oysters, saurians (including the huge Pliosaurus), and masses 
 of wood converted into jet. 
 
 The limestone of the Great Oolite occurs in the middle of the county 
 and in the southern division, and generally caps the highlands. “ The 
 Forest Marble, as a hard rock, only occurs in the neighbourhood of 
 Peterborough, and over a very limited area. The Cornbrash crops out 
 from under the Oxford Clay, on the southern escarpment of the Nen 
 valley ; ranging in from Bedfordshire at a point upon the boundary of 
 the county near Rushden ; and extends, by Oundle, nearly to Peter- 
 borough. In like manner, it crops out, north of the Nen, near 
 Sudborough, extending by Lowick to the Aldwinckles, and reappearing 
 upon many escarpments near Oundle. It also caps the high grounds 
 north of the Addingtons and Woodford, at Islip, at Bulwick, at Upton 
 (near Castor) ; occurs at a lower level at Helpstone, and is .the surface 
 rock over a large area to the north and north-west of Peterborough. 
 The Oxford clay overlies and is almost conterminous with the Corn- 
 brash, where the latter crops out upon the southern escarpment of the 
 Nen valley, and it spreads out over a considerable area of elevated 
 land far into Bedfordshire. Considerable patches of it also occur in the 
 same elevated position to the north of the Aldwinckles, and to the 
 north and west of Oundle ; while in the neighbourhood of Peterborough 
 
xiv History . IntrocL 
 
 it occupies only the low grounds, and spreads out over the great level 
 of the Cambridgeshire and Lincolnshire fens.” — 8, S. 
 
 [The passages within inverted commas, signed S. S., are from a 
 ‘ Sketch of the Geology of Northamptonshire, by Samuel Sharp, Esq.* 
 F.S.A., F.G.S.,’ printed in the third volume of the ‘Proceedings of the 
 Geologists’ Association.’ No one is better acquainted than Mr. Sharp 
 with the geology of the county ; and for the present notice the Editor 
 is almost entirely indebted to him.] 
 
 History. 
 
 § YI. Northamptonshire is not in itself, nor does it form a part of, 
 one of those divisions of England which, from natural position, and 
 from a consequent course of events, have a marked history of their own. 
 Such districts are Devon and Cornwall, representing the British king- 
 dom of Damnonia ; the isolated and strongly Teutonic counties of 
 Norfolk and Suffolk ; and perhaps the whole of ancient Northumbria. 
 The shire of Northampton is an artificial division, and the events 
 which have taken place in it might almost as well have happened- in 
 any other part of England. Those events, however, are in many ways 
 noticeable ; and the county forms part of a district the old language of 
 which has influenced, in a very remarkable manner, the development 
 of modern English. 
 
 The whole of what is now Northamptonshire seems to have been, in 
 the British period, although occupied by the Coritani, under the con- 
 trol of the Iceni, the most powerful tribe of Eastern Britain. Of this 
 primitive time, however, there are few existing traces : (see § XII., 
 Antiquities ). Under the Romans, great portions of the county, and 
 especially the valley of the Nen, seem to have been well populated. 
 The whole of that valley, even when apart from the lines of ancient 
 roads, contains Roman relics — foundations of villas, speculatory mounds, 
 and castra. The river itself seems to have served as a highway ; and 
 at Castor, near Peterborough, there was, besides a large station (on the 
 line of the Ermyn Street), a very extensive pottery, carried on over 
 the whole surrounding country. (See Rte. 2.) The Castor “ware” 
 was in request throughout the greater part of Roman Britain. Two 
 great roads, either formed or adopted by the Romans, the Watiing 
 Street and the Ermyn Street, crossed what is now Northamptonshire; 
 and, besides that at Castor, there were at least three important stations, 
 at Irchester (Rte. 2), Towcester (Rte. 5), and Lilbourne (Rte. 13.) 
 (For these Romain remains, see § XII., Antiquities.) 
 
 § VII. With the Teutonic conquest of this part of Britain our in- 
 terest greatly increases. What is now known as Northamptonshire, 
 Bedfordshire, and Huntingdonshire, and probably some parts of neigh- 
 bouring counties (it is impossible to trace the boundaries with cer- 
 tainty) was occupied by the Middle Angles, whose settlement was one 
 of those out of which the Mercian kingdom was created by Penda and 
 his immediate predecessors. ( Stubbs , ‘Const. Hist.,’ i. 109.) How- 
 
Nokthants. History . xv 
 
 ever ancient may be tbe name scir or shire, it was not applied to any 
 one of the five regions (Lindsey, Hwiccia, Mercia proper, Middle 
 Anglia, and South Anglia) from which Mercia was formed. The whole 
 of Middle Anglia was, in the ninth century, overrun by the Danes, and 
 was more or less brought under their control. The treaty of Alfred 
 and Guthrum (a.d. 878) limited the extent of the Danish occupation 
 southward ; “upon the Thames, along the Lea to its source, then right 
 to Bedford, and then upon the Ouse to Watling Street.” The Watling 
 Street crosses Northamptonshire in a direct line from Stony Stratford 
 to Rugby ; so that by far the greater portion of the county remained 
 within Danish territory — the Denalagu, or Danelagh. But afterwards 
 Edward the Elder (901-965) and his sister, iEthelfked, the “ Lady of 
 Mercia,” after many struggles, either expelled the Danes from Middle 
 Anglian territory, or compelled them to submit themselves to their au- 
 thority. It was apparently after this reconquest that the division of this 
 part of England into shires took place. The name is not before found 
 applied to any portion of Middle Anglia. The “ province ” (if it is to be 
 so called) had been dependent ecclesiastically, first on Leicester (one of 
 Archbishop Theodore’s subdivisions — the see existed, with a short 
 interval, from a.d. 680 to 869), and afterwards on Dorchester in Oxford- 
 shire, to which place the Leicester see was removed. Hence, when the 
 see was again removed, after the Conquest, from Dorchester to Lincoln, 
 the shires which had formed Middle Anglia became dependent on that 
 diocese, the most extensive and unwieldy in England. 
 
 It is impossible to trace the causes which led to the defining of the 
 Middle Anglian shires within their present boundaries. They are for 
 the most part unmarked by any natural necessity ; except where the 
 course of a river, as that of the Welland on the N.W. of Northamp- 
 tonshire, and the Ouse for a very brief space on the S. of the same 
 county, has been occasionally followed. The boundaries of all these 
 shires are very irregular ; perhaps because, in determining them, it may 
 have been necessary to follow the outlines of certain properties or set- 
 tlements. This was apparently the reason why the great monastic 
 house of Peterborough, which had from a very early period much land 
 in the valley of the Nen, was included in Northamptonshire. Each of 
 the Middle Anglian shires is grouped round its capital, as round an 
 acknowledged and convenient centre, and each takes its name from this 
 capital. Thus Northampton, or “ Hampton ” as it is called in the Saxon 
 Chronicle, gives its name to the county gathered round it, the “ ham,” 
 or “ home ” town, being distinguished as Aor^-hampton in opposition 
 to /So^A-hampton, the “port” of Wessex which gave its name to 
 Hampshire. The difference, in short, between these Middle Anglian 
 and Mercian counties and those of Wessex is that the latter “retain to 
 this day the names and the boundaries of the principalities founded by 
 the first successors of Cerdic. . . . The local divisions of Wessex were 
 not made, but grew.” Those of Mercia, on the other hand, show every 
 indication of having been artificially mapped out ; a process which, in 
 all probability, took place after the reconquest from the Danes, effected 
 by Edward the Elder. 
 
xvi 
 
 Introd. 
 
 History . 
 
 § VIII. Although the greater part of Northamptonshire was, as we 
 have seen, within the Danelagh, the traces of Danish settlement in the 
 county are not numerous. The termination in “ by” occurs, but is by 
 no means frequent, except towards the point at which Watling Street 
 passes out of the county, where a little group of “ bys” occurs, with 
 Eugby (across the Warwickshire border) as the principal. Leicester 
 was indeed for a time one of the five Danish “ boroughs,” but it would 
 seem that Danish influence in this part of England was not very per- 
 manent or very powerful. At any rate, it did not greatly affect the 
 language. The “Anglian” dialect of these shires has fulfilled a 
 remarkable destiny. It was the form of Anglo-Saxon (the word is 
 here used as embracing all the dialects of England, from Wessex to 
 Northumbria) speech which was at last to set the standard of the 
 English tongue. “ The English of books and of modern speech is not 
 the tongue of Northumberland; it is not the tongue of Wessex; it is 
 the tongue of those eastern shires of Mercia which border on East 
 Anglia .” — K A. F 1 When at last, two centuries and a half after the 
 Norman Conquest, the English language won back its own place, it was 
 the dialect of the Middle Angles which became to England “what 
 Castilian is to Spain, what Tuscan is to Italy, what the speech of 
 Touraine is to France.” 0 
 
 “ Without pretending to fix the geographical limit very exactly, 
 there can be no doubt that the English language, in the form which 
 has been classical ever since the fourteenth century, is the language of 
 the shires bordering on the great monastic region of the Fenland, the 
 tongue of Northamptonshire, Huntingdonshire, Eutland and Holland. 
 The writer who first gave currency to the dialect was Eobert Manning 
 of Bourne, in the later days of Edward the First. Under the great 
 writers of the fourteenth century it grew and prospered, and it was the 
 form of the language which at the end of that century, finally displaced 
 French as the polite and literary speech of England. Classical English 
 is neither northern nor southern but midland ; and of midland it is 
 eastern and not western. Anyone may convince himself of this who 
 has learned enough of the dialects of England to know how much 
 nearer the tongue of a Northamptonshire peasant comes to the English 
 of books than the tongue of a peasant either of Yorkshire or of Somerset. 
 I suspect that, if the three were brought together, the true test of a 
 standard dialect would show itself; the Northumbrian and the West 
 Saxon would have some ado to understand one another ; the Mercian 
 w^ould be easily understood by both. From the eleventh to the four- 
 teenth century all forms of English south of the Tweed were mere 
 popular dialects in the presence' of a dominant foreign tongue. Since 
 the fourteenth century the tongues of the North and the South have 
 sunk into the still lower position of popular dialects in the presence of 
 a dominant form of the same tongue. The ancient Saxon tongue, 
 which in the fourteenth century was still the speech of written Kentish 
 prose, has long passed out of written use, to become once more in our 
 own day the written speech of Dorset rimes. The tongue of Cerdic, 
 Ine, and HClfred, has been step by step beaten back westward till it 
 
Northants. 
 
 History . xvii 
 
 survives only in the lands which, in days later than those of iElfred, 
 were still looked on as the Wealhcyn , the march of the conquered 
 Britain.” — E. A . Freeman , ‘Norman Conquest,’ v. pp. 542-544. 
 
 Many words which are elsewhere extinct linger in the common 
 speech of Northamptonshire (see Miss Baker's ‘ Glossary of Northamp- 
 tonshire Words and Phrases,’ 2 vols., 1854), but the statement of Fuller 
 that “ the language of the common people is generally the best of any 
 shire in England ” is still true. Fuller (see Rte. 2, Aldwinckle St. Peter’s) 
 was a native of the county, and he adds to this statement ( Worthies , 
 Northants.) — “ A proof whereof, when a boy, I received from a hand- 
 labouring man herein, which hath since convinced my judgment. ‘ We 
 speak, I believe ’ (said he), ‘as good English as any shire in England ; 
 because, though in the singing Psalms some words are used, to make 
 the meeter, unknown to us ; yet the last translation of the Bible, which 
 no doubt was done by those learned men in the best English, agreetb. 
 perfectly with the common speech of the country.’ ” 
 
 § IX. After the Conquest, the thick forest with which so much of 
 the county was at that time covered, drew the special attention of 
 Norman and Angevine kings to Northamptonshire. “ Nowhere,” 
 says Sir Francis Palgrave, “ was a king of England so much a king as 
 within the forest boundary,” — where the precinet was inaccessible to 
 the ordinary course of justice. The great forest of Rockingham, a con- 
 tinuation of the Derbyshire and Nottinghamshire woodlands, extended, 
 it is said, from the immediate neighbourhood of Northampton to the 
 north-western verge of the county ; and the forests of Wittlebury and 
 of Salcey covered the south-eastern district. Accordingly, the castles 
 of Northampton (Rte. 1) and of Rockingham (Rte. 11), both raised 
 immediately after the Conquest, were much frequented by the Red 
 King and his successors, and both have been the scenes of important 
 historical events. At Rockingham, in 1094, took place the famous 
 scene between Anselm and William Rufus (see Rte. 11. Palgrave, 
 ‘ Normandy and England,’ iv. 188, connects “ glowing furnaces ” (for 
 iron), and “ the peculiarly barbarous class of the forgemen ” with the 
 immediate neighbourhood of Rockingham — this is in accordance with 
 the local tradition). At Northampton occurred one of the most remark- 
 able events in the history of Becket — that scene in the “ King’s Hall ” 
 of the castle, which was followed by the flight of the archbishop from 
 England. Notices of the various occurrences at Northampton, and of 
 the Parliaments which have been held there, will be found in Rte. 1. 
 It cannot, however, be said that these were at all influenced by any 
 circumstances peculiar to this part of England, unless it be that the 
 line of the Watling Street, and of one important road which passed 
 northward (that by which the body of Queen Eleanor was brought to 
 Northampton — see Rte. 1, Northampton , and Rte. 10, Geddington ), 
 made Northampton a convenient gathering place, and a sort of centre. 
 
 § X. The later history of Northamptonshire is marked, during the 
 Elizabethan period, by the rise, or at least by the development, of three 
 
Introd. 
 
 xviii History — Antiquities . 
 
 great houses, — -that of the Cecils at Burghley (Rte. 3); that of the 
 Spencers at Althorp (Rte. 7), and that of the Comptons at Castle 
 Ashby (Rte. 2). This group of houses (to which perhaps should he 
 added Apethorp, Rte. 2, founded by Sir Walter Mildmay, Elizabeth’s 
 Chancellor of the Exchequer, who reproduced the quiet courts of his 
 own dwelling in his college of Emmanuel, at Cambridge), the im- 
 portance of which has not only been retained, but has steadily increased 
 to our own day, is still the chief glory of Northamptonshire ; and 
 indeed, as the early history of the county gathers round the royal 
 castles, so the later more or less connects itself with the great Eliza- 
 bethan mansions, or with others which have either become less im- 
 portant as the centuries have passed over them, or which have altogether 
 fallen to ruin. Boughton (Rte. 10), the chief residence of the Dukes 
 of Montagu, and Milton (Rte. 2), the home of Sir William Fitzwilliam, 
 attached to the household of Wolsey, belong to the former division. In 
 the latter must be placed Kirby (Rte. 10), and Holdenby (Rte. 7), 
 both the creations of Sir Christopher Hatton, Elizabeth’s Lord Keeper. 
 Kirby is quite in ruins. Holdenby has been in part restored, but 
 since 1860. Other houses of earlier date are Deene, the seat of the 
 Brudenells since 1514 (Rte. 10), and (especially to be noted) Drayton 
 (Rte. 2), where portions are at least as old as the reign of Edward III. 
 The castle of Fotheringhay (Rte. 2) is now represented oniy by the 
 great keep mound and a trench or two. In its hall took place (Feb. 8, 
 1586-7) the execution of Queen Mary of Scotland, an event which, 
 however, important, is one of those which must be noted as having 
 “ occurred in Northamptonshire, ” rather than as connected with the 
 true history of the county. 
 
 § XI. The outbreak of the Civil War brought Northamptonshire 
 again into prominence, owing, for the most part, to the central position 
 of the county. The first great fight of the war took place at Edgehill 
 (Rte. 5), in Warwickshire, but not far beyond the border of Northants, 
 on the 23rd of October, 1642. The last great fight was that at Naseby 
 (Rte. 8) on the highest ground in the county, June 14th, 1645. These 
 battles are fully described under the divisions to which they belong. 
 Many skirmishes occurred in different parts of the county before peace 
 was entirely restored, the most noticeable of which was perhaps that in 
 which Cromwell’s general, Lambert, was taken (see Da-ventry , Rte. 4). 
 It was at Holdenby (Rte. 7) that Charles I. passed into the hands of 
 Cornet Joyce. 
 
 William III. visited the second Earl of Sunderland at Althorp in 
 1695 (Rte. 7) ; and the great houses of Northamptonshire have had 
 their due succession of royal guests. But such visits are scarcely 
 history ; and no event of real historical importance has taken place 
 within the limits of the county since the beginning of the eighteenth 
 century. 
 
 Antiquities. 
 
 § XII. Northamptonshire is one of the most attractive counties in 
 
Northants. Antiquities . xix 
 
 England for the antiquary whose special studies are ecclesiastical and 
 domestic architecture. In primaeval remains, and in those of the 
 British and Roman periods, it is not rich; hut the whole range of 
 mediaeval architecture, from early forms of Romanesque to the latest 
 Perpendicular, is better illustrated in no other part of England. The 
 domestic buildings of the county belong chiefly to the Tudor period ; 
 but many of them are of very high interest. 
 
 Primaeval and British antiquities are confined to a few camps and 
 earthworks, the date of which it is impossible to determine, and some 
 of which may have been turned to account during the Roman period. 
 Of these the most important are Borough Hill, near Daventry (Rte. 4) 
 — a British stronghold certainly Romanised. Arbury Hill, near Staver- 
 ton (Rte. 4). Castle Dykes, near Farthingstone (Rte. 5), unless this 
 should rather be considered as the site of a Saxon fortified mansion ; 
 and British earthworks at East Farndon (Rte. 8). 
 
 Of Roman remains we have the camps or stations of Irchester 
 (Rte. 2) ; Castor, or Durobrivae (Rte, 2) ; the Roman portion of 
 Borough Hill, or Beneventa (Rte. 4) ; Towcester, or Lactodorum 
 (Rte. 5), where, however, traces of Roman work have nearly vanished ; 
 Backgrounds, near Chipping Warden (Rte. 5), the probable site of 
 Brinavis ; and Lilbourne, or Tripontium (Rte. 13). Of these, Irchester 
 and Castor are the most distinct and important. There are still some 
 remains of the great Roman pottery, which extended throughout the 
 neighbourhood of Castor (Rte. 2). Foundations of Roman villas have 
 been found in different parts of the county, as at Duston, near 
 Northampton (Rte. 1), and at Apethorpe (Rte. 2). The mound of 
 Clifford Hill on the Nen (Rte. 2) is probably Roman. 
 
 Mediaeval Period . The true archaeological riches of Northampton- 
 shire belong to the centuries between a.d. 900 and a.d. 1500. No 
 English county contains more remarkable examples of Romanesque 
 architecture in its earlier forms ; and no county is more distinguished 
 by the extreme excellence and variety of its ecclesiastical architecture, 
 not in one period alone, but in all, from the development of Early 
 English to the latest Perpendicular. Northamptonshire has been 
 called a land of “ Squires and Spires ; ” and it is undoubtedly pre- 
 eminent in noble examples of the latter. It is to be noted that a very 
 marked originality characterizes the church architecture of the county, 
 and especially that of the Early English and Decorated periods. The 
 great rules and principles of mediaeval architecture are nowhere dis- 
 regarded ; but they are frequently applied, and the subordinate 
 decorations are used, in a manner displaying great independence on the 
 part of the architect. The excellent building-stone of the district 
 (seeBarnack, Rte. 3 ; Ketton , Rutland, Rte. 1 ; and ante, Geology) was a 
 strong inducement to architectural display ; and Barnack stone was 
 conveyed easily into the heart of the county by the aid of the river 
 Nen. The great and wealthy Abbey of Peterborough set the example 
 
Introd. 
 
 xx Antiquities, 
 
 of church building. Its possessions were scattered over the county 
 but chiefly throughout the Nen valley; and it is there accordingly, 
 that we find the noblest and most costly churches. The ease of water- 
 carriage seems to have been as great an incentive to building here as in 
 the Marshland and along the north coast of Norfolk. As we pass out 
 of the Northamptonshire district, however — either eastward, into 
 Cambridgeshire and Norfolk; or northward, into Lincolnshire — we 
 encounter distinct schools of builders ; and the Marshland churches 
 and those of the Lincolnshire Holland are marked by characteristics very 
 different from those of the Nen valley. The churches of even the 
 neighbouring and closely-connected Rutland have peculiarities which 
 are not those of Northamptonshire. The main source of these 
 differences is no doubt to be sought in the general conditions of building 
 throughout the mediaeval period. But whether an architect was 
 distinctly recognized, or whether the work was undertaken by inde- 
 pendent bodies of masons, local causes were always in operation, which 
 modified the design, and which influenced the main architectural 
 character of the district. How far Peterborough was thus the building 
 centre of Northamptonshire has yet to be clearly ascertained. 
 
 § XIII. The special features of each church are described in the 
 several routes. The churches to which the antiquary should give 
 most attention are — 
 
 (1) . Saxon . — (All the examples are of the highest importance). *Earl’s 
 Barton (Rte. 2) ; Wittering (Rte. 2) ; *Brigstock (Rte. 2) ; *Barnack 
 tower (Rte. 3); Stowe-Nine-Churches, perhaps the tower (Rte. 4); 
 *Brix worth (Rte. 8). 
 
 (2) . Norman. — *St. Peter’s, Northampton (Rte. 1); *S. Sepulchre’s, 
 Northampton (with later nave) (Rte. 1) ; Castle Ashby (portions) 
 (Rte. 2) ; *Polebrook (late, with E. Eng. portions), (Rte. 2) ; Tansor 
 (with E. Eng.) (Rte. 2) ; *Castor, very fine late Norman enriched tower 
 (Rte. 2) ; * Peterborough, the great abbey church, now the cathedral. 
 All is Norman of different dates, except the west front and eastern 
 building (Rte. 2) ; King’s Sutton (portions, Rte. 5) ; Spratton (Tran- 
 sition, with additions, Rte. 8) ; *Barton Seagrave (Rte. 9). 
 
 (3) . Early English. — St. Giles’, Northampton (parts, Rte. 1) ; 
 Strixton (small, but very good, Rte. 2); *Higham Ferrers (much E. 
 Eng., especially the tower and W. entrance, Rte. 2) ; Irthlingborough 
 (parts, Rte. 2) ; Sudborough (parts, Rte. 2) ; Aldwinckle All Saints’ 
 (parts, Rte. 2) ; Aldwinckle" St. Peter’s (nave, Rte. 2); *Oundle (arcade, 
 Rte. 2) ; * Warrington (throughout E. Eng., with E. Eng. wooden groining 
 of nave, Rte. 2) ; * Peterborough (West front of cathedral, Rte. 2) ; 
 *Barnack (body of church, very fine S. porch, Rte. 3) ; ^Stamford, St. 
 Mary's, E. Eng. tower. Stamford, *All Saints (remarkable external 
 wall arcade, Rte. 2) ; Floore (Rte. 4) ; Towcester (nave arcade, Rte. 5) ; 
 Morton Pinkeney (parts, Rte. 5) ; Canons Ashby (parts, Rte. 5) ; 
 
Noethants. 
 
 Antiquities . xxi 
 
 Warkworth (parts, Rte. 5) ; Brackley, St. Peter’s (tower, Rte. 6) ; 
 Great Brington (parts, Rte. 7) ; Hannington, remarkable for single 
 nave arcade (Rte. 9) ; *Raunds, very fine tower and spire (Rte. 15) ; 
 * Stan wick, remarkable octagonal tower of E. Eng. date, on which is a 
 Dec. spire (Rte. 15). 
 
 (4). Decorated . — Great Billing (Rte. 2) ; *Yardley Hastings (Rte. 2) ; 
 *Easton Maudit (Rte. 2) ; Wellingborough (parts, Rte. 2) ; *Irchester, 
 spire fine late Dec (Rte. 2) ; *Higham Ferrers (parts, Rte. 2) ; *Rushden 
 (parts, including tower and spire, but the latter bas Perp. insertions, 
 Rte. 2) ; Islip (parts, Rte. 2) ; *Tichmarsh (very fine W. tower, Rte. 2) ; 
 *Aldwinckle St. Peter’s (very graceful late Dec. tower and spire, 
 Rte. 2) ; Cotterstock (Rte. 2); Overton Longueville (Rte. 2) ; *North- 
 borough (church and manor-house, Rte. 3); Stowe-Nine-Churches 
 (body of church, Rte. 4) ; Watford (nave, Rte. 4) ; Canons Ashby 
 (tower, Rte. 5) ; Middleton Cheney (parts, Rte. 5) ; *By field, late Dec., 
 fine tower and spire (Rte. 5) ; Harleston, a dated example (Rte. 7) ; 
 Holdenby, nave (Rte. 7); Church Brampton (Rte. 8); *Walgrave 
 (Rte. 9) ; Deene (tower and spire, Rte. 10) ; Finedon (Rte. 12) ; Stan- 
 ford, with fine Dec. glass (Rte. 13) ; Stan wick (parts, including spire, 
 Rte. 15). 
 
 Perpendicular. — Wellingborough (parts, Rte. 2) ; *Rushden, interior 
 with strainer arch (Rte. 2); *Irthlingborough, detached campanile, 
 crowned by an octagon (Rte. 2) ; *Islip, excellent in proportions 
 (Rte. 2) ; *Lowick, with fine glass and monuments (2) ; Tichmarsh 
 (portions, Rte. 2) ; Aldwinckle All Saints’, W. tower (Rte. 2) ; *Oundle 
 (tower, Rte. 2) ; *Fotheringhay (Rte. 2) ; *Peterborough Cathedral 
 (eastern portion, Rte. 2) ; Uffington, tower and spire (Rte. 3) ; Stam- 
 ford, St. Martin’s (Rte. 3) ; * Ashby St. Ledger’s (Rte. 4) ; Towcester 
 (parts, including tower, Rte. 5) ; *Easton Neston (Rte. 5) ; *Middleton 
 Cheney, fine W. tower (Rte. 5) ; King’s Sutton, good tower and spire, 
 (Rte. 5) ; Charwelton (Rte. 5) ; Chipping Warden, arcade (Rte. 5) ; 
 Great Brington (parts, Rte. 7); *Kettering, fine tower and spire 
 (Rte. 9) ; Finedon, strainer arch (Rte. 12). 
 
 The churches of Castle Ashby (Rte. 2), and of Rockingham (Rte. 11), 
 deserve attention for the memorials they contain : C. Ashby of the 
 Comptons, Earls and Marquisses of Northampton, and Rockingham of 
 the Watsons, Earls of Rockingham. Rockingham church has been 
 entirely rebuilt. Other monuments of great interest are at Lowick 
 (Rte. 2) ; at Stowe-Nine-Churches (Rte. 4) ; Peterborough Cathedral 
 (Rte. 2) ; St. Martin’s, Stamford (Rte. 3) ; Easton Neston (Rte. 5) ; 
 Warkworth (Rte. 5) ; Steane Chapel (Rte. 6) ; and Warkton (Rte. 10). 
 
 Other remains of ecclesiastical architecture are the Queen Eleanor 
 Crosses ; that at Northampton (Rte. 1), and that at Geddington 
 (Rte. 10). Among monastic remains are those at Peterborough (Rte. 2), 
 and, to be mentioned here (since they are described in the present hand- 
 book) those at Crowland (Rte. 2). 
 
 § XIY. Domestic Architecture . — The houses to be especially noticed 
 
xx ii Resources and Manufactures. In trod. 
 
 in the county are Upton Hall, with a roof of the 14th cent. (Ete. 1) ; 
 Castle Ashby (Elizabethan and later, Ete. 2) ; a fragment of the 
 manor-house at Yardley Hastings, 14th cent. (Ete. 2) ; Drayton, rang- 
 ing from Edward III. to William III. (Ete. 2) ; Lyveden, old and new 
 “builds,” both Elizabethan (Ete. 2) : Apethorpe, Elizabethan (Ete. 2) ; 
 Eothennghay, a “hostel” temp. Ed. IV. (Ete. 2); Milton, parts of 
 beginning of 16th cent. (Ete. 2); Woodcraft, temp. Ed. I. (Ete. Si- 
 North borough, circ. 1350 (Ete. 3) ; Burghley (Ete. 3) ; Fawsley, por- 
 tions of first half of 15th cent., great oriel circ. 1500; ruins of dower 
 house in park, early 16th cent. (Ete. 4) ; Ashby St. Ledger’s, partly 
 Elizabethan (Rte. 4) ; Easton Neston, by Wren and Hawksmoor 
 (Rte. 5) ; Canons Ashby, of various dates, but in part temp. Hen. VIII. 
 (Rte. 5) ; Edgcott, date 1752 (Rte. 5) ; Althorp, various dates (Rte. 6) ; 
 Holdenby, Elizabethan with modern restoration (Rte. 7) ; Lamport, 
 by Webb, son-in-law of Inigo Jones (Rte. 8) ; Overstone, modern, by 
 Teuton (Rte. 9); Boughton, last half of 17th cent. (Rte. 10); Deene, 
 Tudor and later (Rte. 10) ; Kirby, Elizabethan, in ruins (Rte. 10) ; 
 Rushton Hall, between 1595 and 1630; Triangular Lodge of same 
 date (Rte. 12) ; Rothwell Market House of same date (Rte. 12). 
 
 Military. — Of Northampton Castle (Rte. 1) there remains only a 
 fragment of the enclosing wall. Thorpe Waterville (Rte. 2) has a frag- 
 ment dating from the 14th cent. Barnwell St. Andrew’s (Rte. 2), a 
 great Edwardian quadrangle with angle towers. Fotheringhay (Rte. 2) 
 has. only the mound. Rockingham (Rte. 11) has a great gateway 
 dating from 1275, and in the domestic buildings of the castle are por- 
 tions of the 13th cent. Other parts are of the 16th cent., chiefly 
 Elizabethan. 
 
 Among other medieval remains must be classed two very interesting 
 bridges : one at Higham Ferrers (Rte. 2), of the 13th cent., ’and another 
 over the Cherwell (Rte. 5), dating from about 1250. 
 
 § XV. Art Collections . — The principal collections of pictures and 
 other works of art in the county are at Castle Ashby (portraits, &c.,) 
 Rte. 2; at Drayton (various: pictures, &c.), Rte. 2. At Althorp 
 (pictures, portraits, boohs, china, &c.), Rte. 7. At Boughton (por- 
 traits, &c.), Rte. 10. At Rockingham (portraits, &c., &c.), Rte. 11 ; 
 and at Burghley (pictures, portraits, &c.), Rte. 3. 
 
 Resources and Manufactures. 
 
 § XVI. Under the section “ Geology ,” the mineral wealth of North- 
 amptonshire has already been noticed. The building-stones of the 
 Lias and Oolites ; and the iron ore from the Northamptonshire sand and 
 the marlstones of the middle Lias, are its chief economical resources ; 
 and the recent working of the latter is gradually changing the appear- 
 ance of large portions of the county. 
 
 The agriculture of Northamptonshire is far above the average, and 
 
Northants. Travellers View and Hotels . xxiii 
 
 both corn and pasture lands are excellent. The number of acres under 
 all kinds of crops, however, more than doubles that of the acres in 
 pasture. The breeding and fattening of cattle and of sheep are among 
 the chief objects of the Northamptonshire farmer; and the “Short- 
 horns” of Althorp and Burghley are widely famous. The most 
 common breed of sheep is the improved Leicester. 
 
 The principal, indeed the only, manufacture carried on in the 
 county is the making of boots and shoes. For this Northampton and 
 the neighbourhood were famous from an early period; and there is a 
 saying that “you know when you are within a mile of Northampton 
 by the noise of the cobblers’ lap- stones.” Since the time when Fuller 
 wrote that the town “ may be said to stand chiefly on other men’s legs,” 
 the trade has enormously increased ; and the manufacturers have now 
 the most extensive business of this sort in the world. Contracts are 
 taken for the supply of the army, of the colonies, and of the principal 
 markets throughout England. The trade is carried on not only in 
 Northampton, but in every town and village along the eastern border 
 and in the centre of the county. 
 
 Traveller’s View— Hotels. 
 
 § XVII. Those who are in quest of the picturesque alone must 
 hardly be sent to Northamptonshire; although there are portions of 
 the county of which the scenery is far from unpleasing. These lie for 
 the most part towards the west and south-west, on the borders of 
 Oxfordshire and Warwickshire. 
 
 But the antiquary and the lover of ecclesiastical architecture will 
 find their full account in exploring the whole of the county. The most 
 important churches lie on the eastern side, in and around the broad 
 valley' of the Nen. These may readily be visited in the course of long 
 daily excursions from Northampton ; but as the comfort, and not a 
 little of the pleasure, of the tourist depend greatly on the character of 
 his temporary quarters, it may be as well to point out the sort of 
 accommodation which he will meet with in the county, and the best 
 method of dealing with it. 
 
 The best centres from which to make excursions on all sides are 
 Northampton, where the principal hotel is the “ George ;” fairly good, but 
 in a somewhat noisy thoroughfare. Wellingborough, where the “ Hind ” 
 inn is the best ; but the town of Wellingborough, overrun by shoe- 
 makers, is not pleasant, and the same country may perhaps be as well 
 commanded from Kettering ( Inn : the “ Royal,” moderately good). 
 There is a tolerable inn, the “ White Hart,” at Thrapston ; an excellent 
 centre, from which may be visited all the most interesting sites and 
 churches as far as Wellingborough southward, and as Fotheringhay 
 northward. At Oundle there is an old-fashioned and comfortable inn, 
 the “ Talbot.” Peterborough commands the lower reaches of the Nen, 
 and days’ excursions are easily made to Crowland, to Stamford, and 
 to Burghley. The best hotel at Peterborough is that of the Great 
 
xxiv 
 
 Hotels . 
 
 Introd. 
 
 Northern Company, close to the Great Northern Railway station. 
 There is another, the “ Bull,” in the city, which is good. Peterborough 
 is so great a railway centre that it is a most convenient resting-place 
 for the traveller, who may make excursions from it on all sides. At 
 Stamford the principal hotel is the “ George/’ large and somewhat gaunt, 
 hut fairly comfortable. But the tourist who desires only to see Stam- 
 ford and Burghley may do so in days’ excursions from Peterborough. 
 Stamford is, however, the best place from which to visit parts of 
 Rutland, or that portion of Northamptonshire which lies south of the 
 town. 
 
 Market Harborough in Leicestershire {Inn : the “ Three Swans ”) may 
 be used as a centre for visiting the adjacent parts of Northamptonshire ; 
 which are not, however, of very high interest. Coming further south, 
 a newly-built hotel will be found at Weedon ; and the “ Globe ” in the 
 village is tolerably comfortable. The neighbourhood of Weedon is 
 interesting. Daventry may be visited from it, and several important 
 churches. Either Weedon or Daventry ( Inn : the “ Peacock,” good) 
 will be the best points from which to explore the country lying towards 
 Banbury ; and from Banbury in Oxfordshire ( Inn : the “ Red Lion”) the 
 picturesque S.W. corner of Northamptonshire may be visited. Finally, 
 there is a fairly good, old-fashioned inn, the “ Pom fret Arms,” at Tow - 
 cester , which commands the opposite angle of the county. 
 
 These are the best stations for the tourist who desires to make himself 
 well acquainted with the antiquarian treasures of the county. The 
 points of most interest accessible from each are noted in the “ Skeleton 
 Tours” appended to the Introduction. The hotel accommodation in 
 Northamptonshire is, upon the whole, but indifferent. The hotels at 
 Peterborough, supported by a constant throng of travellers, are, as is to 
 be expected, the best, and these are really good. The “ George ” at 
 Northampton is the best in that town, but is not altogether satisfactory. 
 In the smaller towns we can only look for such comfortable, old- 
 fashioned hostelries as for the most part we find : but in these the 
 visitor must not be too exacting. The pedestrian will find humble but 
 not unpleasant accommodation in many a small village inn. 
 
( XXV ) 
 
 SECTION II. 
 
 RUTLAND. 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 Page 
 
 Extent and General Character — 
 Geology ...... xxv 
 
 History ... ... xxvi 
 
 Page 
 
 Antiquities xxviii 
 
 Resources — Traveller’s View . xxix 
 Skeleton Tours xxix 
 
 Extent and General Character— Geology. 
 
 § XVIII. No very great space is required for all that need here be 
 recorded of the smallest county in England — the “ provinciola minima” 
 of Camden. Small as it is, however, it has its own good features. 
 “ Indeed,” says Fuller, “ it is hut the pestel of a lark, which is better 
 than a quarter of some bigger bird, having the most cleanly profit in it. 
 No place so fair for the rider, being more fruitful for the abider therein.” 
 This description so far still holds good, that the north-western part of 
 the county is the district of the Cottesmore hunt ; and that the “ riding ” 
 throughout it is only exceeded in “ fairness ” by that of the Leicester- 
 shire district — the country of the Quorn — which adjoins Rutland. The 
 area of Rutland comprises 94,889 statute acres, equal to about 150 
 square miles. The population in 1871 w T as 22,073—11,038 males and 
 11,035 females. The county is about eighteen miles in length from 
 north to south, and fifteen in breadth from east to west ; the circum- 
 ference being nearly sixty miles. The shires which touch on Rutland 
 are Northamptonshire, Leicestershire, and Lincolnshire. 
 
 The county nowhere rises into lofty ground ; but it is marked 
 throughout its whole extent (except on the north) by long ridges of 
 land, running from east to west, the valleys lying between which are 
 often of great richness. The vale of Catmose, in the neighbourhood of 
 Oakham, is probably the richest of these broad stretches of land. North 
 of this valley the country rises into a wide table-land, overlooking great 
 part of Leicestershire. The only river of note is the Guash or Wash, 
 which, rising in Leicestershire, a little beyond the Rutland border, 
 traverses the whole of the county, and joins the Welland a little east 
 of Stamford. “ The comon saying is ther,” writes Leland, “ that Wash 
 [Northants &c.~\ b 
 
xxvi General Character — History . Introd. 
 
 and Wiland shal drown al Holande ” — the fen country of Lincolnshire 
 into which the united streams pass. There are smaller “riverets” 
 draining other parts of Eutland ; hut although the valleys are suffi- 
 ciently pleasant, and the views from the higher ground extensive, 
 Rutland has no claim to he regarded as a picturesque county. The 
 artist will find his best, perhaps his only, subjects in the villages, which 
 are generally situated in the valleys. The churches are often fine ; 
 and whilst the adjoining country may he treeless, the church towers 
 rise from the midst of well-grown elm and ash trees. The deeper 
 wood is for the most part grouped about the parks of Burley-on-the- 
 hill, Exton, and Normanton ; hut other parts of the county are fairly 
 wooded. Much of the country south and west of Oakham was indeed 
 anciently included within the royal forest of Ly field ; and the “ forest 
 of Rutland ” is mentioned in a charter of Richard I. (a.d. 1190). 
 
 The geology of Rutland resembles that of Northamptonshire ; since 
 the whole area of the county is included in the great Jurassic belt. The 
 Ketton Quarries, in the Inferior Oolite (Rte. 1), and those of Clipsham, 
 (Rte. 3), have been worked from a very early period. The soil is in 
 general a deep clay. On the whole, it is probably the natives of Rut- 
 land who will most fully accept and appreciate the praise of the county 
 in Drayton’s 4 Polyolbion ’ : — 
 
 “ Love not thyself the less, although the least thou art, 
 
 What thou in greatness want’st, wise Nature doth impart 
 In goodness of thy soil ; and more delicious mould, 
 
 Surveying all this isle, the sun did ne’er behold. 
 
 Bring forth that British vale, and be it ne’er so rare, 
 
 But Catmus with that vale for richness may compare. 
 
 What forest nymph is found, how brave soe’er she be. 
 
 But Lyfield shows herself as brave a nymph as she ? 
 
 What river ever rose from bank or swelling hill 
 Than Kutland’s wandering Wash, a delicater rill? 
 
 Small shire that can’st produce to thy proportion good 
 One vale of special name, one forest, and one flood ! 
 
 0 Catmus, thou fair vale ! come on in grass and corn 
 That Beaver ne’er be said thy sisterhood to scorn, 
 
 And let thy Ocham boast to have no little grace 
 That her the pleased Fates did in thy bosom place ! 
 
 And Lyfield, as thou art a forest, live so free 
 
 That every forest nymph may praise the sports in thee. 
 
 And down to Welland’s course, 0 Wash ! run ever clear 
 To honour, and to be much honoured by, this shire.” 
 
 History. 
 
 § XIX. The great historical question relating to Rutland, is how it 
 became a distinct shire. As a shire it is of later date than the Domes- 
 day survey ; in which a part of what is now Rutland is described under 
 Northamptonshire, whilst the remainder, and the greater part, appears 
 as an appendage to Nottinghamshire, from which Rutland is altogether 
 separated by intervening portions of Leicestershire and Lincolnshire. 
 On the whole, “ the great divisions of our own times still follow those 
 which William found in the land; so that within England proper — in 
 marked contrast to most other parts of Europe — the map which repre- 
 
Rutland. History . xxvii 
 
 sents the divisions of our own times represents, in the main, the divi- 
 sions in the time of the Conqueror. . . . Domesday teaches us, better 
 than any other witness of those times can teach us, that the England 
 of the eleventh century and the England of the nineteenth, are one and 
 the same thing. Rutland alone, in the very heart of the land, remains 
 an insoluble problem.” — Freeman , 4 Norm. Conq.,’ v. 40. It is impos- 
 sible to trace the steps, or to determine the exact period, by or at which 
 Rutland became an independent county. All we know is, that the 
 change must have taken place at some time between the end of the 
 eleventh century and the reign of John ; since, in the fifth year of that 
 king, among other lands assigned as a dowry to the Queen Isabella, 
 appear 44 Com. Roteland et villam de Rockingham.” This is the earliest 
 notice of Rutland as a county ; but it is remarkable that at a later 
 period than this, 44 instead of finding the expenses of the shrievalty 
 written on the great roll of the Pipe, like other counties, on a rotulet by 
 themselves, they come in usually appended to Northamptonshire, 
 Nottinghamshire, Leicestershire, or Derbyshire.” — C. H. Hartshorne , 
 4 Archseol. Journal,’ vol. v., p. 134. 
 
 The name 44 Roteland ” was, however, applied to some portion of 
 what now forms the county, at an early period. The 44 Soca regis de 
 Roteland ” appears in Domesday ; and the will of the Confessor be- 
 queathed 44 Roteland ” to his queen, Eadgyth, for her life, and then to 
 his newly established monastery at Westminster. The portion thus 
 bequeathed, as we know, from other sources, comprised Oakham and the 
 country round it. 44 Roteland,” whatever the name may signify, 
 belongs to the same class of names as Holland and Cleveland ; and the 
 district which the name indicated, was, like them, isolated, and perhaps 
 independent, long before the separate provinces of the Mercian kingdom 
 were arranged in shires (see ante , Introd. to Northamptonshire, § VII.). 
 We cannot determine with certainty the meaning of the name, nor can 
 we say whether it is Anglian or Danish. 44 There goes a tale,” says 
 Wright, the old historian of the county, 44 of one Rut, who rid round 
 this county in a day. In memorial of which act, the space of ground 
 so encircled was from him called Rutland.” Again it has been suggested 
 that 44 Rotelandia ” may be so named from its circular form 44 quasi 
 Rotundalandia ;” or that 44 Roet,” old French for a 44 wheel” may be the 
 root, also from this rotundity. But it need hardly be said that all this 
 etymology belongs to a pre-scientific period, and. deserves no serious 
 attention. Something more may possibly be due to the theory which 
 makes Rutland 44 red land ;” since there is certainly a small portion of 
 the county marked by a very red clay, though hardly so red as 44 to 
 stain the wool of the sheep that feed on it.” On the whole we must be 
 content to leave the meaning of the name and the origin of the county 
 in much obscurity. 
 
 What is now Rutland w T as included in Mercia, and was within the 
 bounds of the Denelagh. The division into 44 wapentakes,” which has 
 been held to be a mark of Danish occupation, occurs in it ; but the 
 wapentakes are also known as hundreds. There are no traces, in the 
 county, of names which are certainly Danish. 
 
 b 2 
 
In trod. 
 
 xxviii 
 
 The later history of Butland is a blank, except in so far as the Castle 
 of Oakham is concerned. For the history of the castle, see Rte. 1. 
 The fight known as “ Loosecoat Field ” occurred at a place between 
 Stamford and Stretton in 1740 (see Rte. 4). 
 
 Edward, eldest son of Edmund of Langley, 5th son of Edward III., 
 was created Earl of Rutland in 1389 (13th Rich. II.). His nephew, 
 Richard Plantagenet, succeeded him. This was the Duke of York, 
 killed at Wakefield in 1460 ; and his son, Edmund, who had shortly 
 before been created Earl of Rutland, was stabbed after the battle by 
 Clifford. The earldom then became extinct in the royal house. In 
 1525, Thomas, 13th Lord Roos, was created Earl of Rutland. The 
 10th earl was created Duke of Rutland in 1703. 
 
 Antiquities. 
 
 § XX. — Roman . The ancient road known as the Ermyn Street, 
 which if not of Roman origin was adopted by the Romans, ran through 
 what is now the N.E. portion of Rutland (see Rte. 4). On it was an 
 important station at Great Casterton (Rte. 4). Roman relics have 
 occasionally been found on the line of this road, but none of great 
 note. 
 
 Mediaeval . — The Churches of Rutland are, many of them, of con- 
 siderable interest. It deserves mention here that the round arch 
 maintained its position in this district in a remarkable manner, after the 
 Early English had become fully developed. The churches of Great Cas- 
 terton, Clipsham, Stretton, and some others (nearly all in the northern 
 portion of the county) afford good instances. The following are the 
 churches which the ecclesiologist should visit. 
 
 Norman . — Ketton (Rte. 1) has a Trans.-Norm. W. front. Edith 
 Weston (Rte. 2) has Trans.-Norm. portions. Glaiston (Rte. 2) and 
 Morcott (Rte. 2) have some curious Norm. work. Clipsham (Rte. 3) 
 is in part late Norm. *Tickencote (Rte. 4) is very remarkable, and well 
 deserves attention. At Essendine (Rte. 5) is a Norman portal. 
 
 Early English . — * Ketton, chancel and fine tower. Preston (Rte. 2), 
 parts ; Stoke Dry (Rte. 2), parts ; but this church is more early Dec. 
 It is noticeable for the Digby monuments. Burley-on-the-Hill (Rte. 
 3), parts. Stretton (Rte. 3). Great Casterton (Rte. 4). Empingham 
 (Rte. 4), with Perp. alterations. Ryhall (Rte. 5), in part. 
 
 Decorated . — Ash well (Rte. 1), parts; Uppingham (Rte. 2). The 
 church is almost rebuilt, but the early Dec. arcade has been retained. 
 *Lyddington (Rte. 2), Early Dec. and Perp. Cottesmore (Rte. 3), 
 Dec. and Perp., with fine W. tower and spire. Greetham (Rte. 3), 
 noble Dec. tower and spire. Clipsham (Rte. 3), in parts. Exton 
 (Rte. 4), with tine monuments of Haringtons and Noels. 
 
 Perpendicular . — *Oakham (Rte. 1), in greatest part. Langham 
 (Rte. 1), with some early English portions. 
 
 Domestic Architecture . — The remarkable, and perhaps unique, *hall 
 of Oakham Castle (Rte. 1) must be mentioned here. In the town of 
 
Northants & Rutland. Skeleton Tours. 
 
 XXIX 
 
 Oakham is the house called Flore’s (Rte. 1), of Early English date, 
 but much altered in Perp. times. The Bede House at Lyddington 
 (Rte. 2) dates in great part from the end of the fourteenth century. 
 
 Military. — The sole remains are some fragments of the wall of 
 Oakham Castle, the moats there, and the moat at Essendine Castle 
 (Rte. 5). 
 
 Among modern buildings , Exton Hall (Rte. 4), and the new schools 
 at Uppingham (Rte. 2), deserve mention. 
 
 Resources — Traveller’s View. 
 
 § XXI. Rutland has no manufactures ; and the fine building-stone 
 which is quarried on the east and north-east of the county is its most 
 important mineral production. 
 
 The tourist in Rutland will hardly desire to do more than visit 
 Oakham, perhaps Uppingham, and some of the principal churches. He 
 will find a fairly good, old-fashioned country inn at Oakham (the 
 “ Crown ”), and a newly-built one (the “ Falcon”), comfortable enough, 
 at Uppingham. Every place of interest or importance may be visited 
 from one of these centres, or from Stamford, which is on the border of 
 the county. The hotel at Stamford (see Northamptonshire, Introd. 
 § XVII.), is the “ George.” 
 
 SKELETON TOURS. 
 
 NORTHAMPTONSHIRE AND RUTLAND. 
 
 (The best hotels have already been mentioned in § XVII. The places 
 best worth attention, and the centres from which they may most easily 
 be visited, are pointed out here.) 
 
 1 . 
 
 A Week at Northampton . 
 
 Monday. — See the Churches in Northampton. The Castle. Queen 
 Eleanor’s Cross. 
 
 Tuesday. — By rail to Higham Ferrers Station. Visit Higham Ferrers 
 in the morning. In the afternoon, Irthlingborough. (Luncheon 
 should be taken. The inn at H. Ferrers is rough.) 
 
 [A good pedestrian may stop at Wellingborough Station ; walk to 
 the Roman station, and the Church at Irchester : thence (21 m.) to 
 H. Ferrers : so to Irthlingborough ; and return to Northampton by 
 rail.] 
 
 Wednesday. — Drive to Althorp ; Great Brington (Spencer Monuments) ; 
 Holdenby. 
 
xxx Skeleton Tours . Introd. 
 
 Thursday. — To Thrapston by rail. Visit Islip ; Drayton ; Lowick ; 
 the Aldwinckles. 
 
 Friday. — To Earl’s Barton Station ; E. Barton Church ; Castle Ashby ; 
 and Easton Maudit Church. [ Driving from Northampton, Castle 
 Ashby may be visited, and the drive continued to Yardley Hastings, 
 and the great oaks in Yardley Chase.] 
 
 Saturday. — To Towcester by rail. Easton Neston, House and Church. 
 
 Spending Sunday in Northampton, the tourist may proceed on 
 Monday to Market Harborough by rail, stopping at Brixworth Station 
 to see the remarkable Church. From Market Harborough may be 
 visited — 
 
 Tuesday. — Naseby and the Battle-field. 
 
 Wednesday. — Rockingham ; Castle and Church. * * ~ 
 
 2 . 
 
 A Week at Peterborough . 
 
 Sunday. — Cathedral. 
 
 Monday. — Cathedral and remains of Monastery in morning. In after- 
 noon visit Longthorpe. 
 
 Tuesday . — To Crowland. 
 
 Wednesday. — Castor and Milton. 
 
 Thursday. — Barnack and Wittering Churches. 
 
 Friday. — Fotheringhay ; Apethorpe ; Oundle. 
 
 Saturday. — Excursion to Huntingdon, or into Cambridgeshire. 
 
 3 . 
 
 A Week at Stamford. 
 
 Monday. — Stamford ; Town and Churches. 
 
 Tuesday. — Burghley ; House and Park. 
 
 Wednesday. — By rail to Oakham. Oakham Church and Castle in the 
 morning. In afternoon to Langham. 
 
 Thursday.-— Drive to Tickencote Church ; Empingham ; Exton. 
 Friday. — Excursion to Rockingham by rail. Castle and Church. 
 
 4 . 
 
 An Ecclesiological Tour through the Valley of the Nen. 
 
 Start from Northampton. Monday ; see the Churches there, and the 
 Cross. 
 
 Tuesday. — Earl’s Barton ; Castle Ashby ; Easton Maudit. Proceed to 
 Wellingborough and sleep. 
 
Northants & Eutland. Skeleton Tours . 
 
 xxxi 
 
 Wednesday. — Irchester ; Higham Ferrers ; Irthlingborough ; Rushden. 
 Proceed to Thrapston and sleep. 
 
 Thursday. — From Thrapston to Raunds and Stanwick ; meet train at 
 Higham Ferrers Station. Return to Thrapston. 
 
 Friday. — Islip ; Drayton ; Lowick ; the Aldwinckles. Proceed to 
 Oundle and sleep. 
 
 Saturday. — Oundle ; Polebrook ; Barnwell Castle. By rail to Peter- 
 borough. 
 
 Sunday. — At Peterborough. 
 
 Monday. — Excursion to Fotheringhay ; Tansor ; Warningham. Return 
 to Peterborough. 
 
 5. 
 
 Three Days at Kettering . 
 
 1. Kettering Church; Barton Seagrave. In afternoon by rail to 
 Rushton and Rothwell. 
 
 2. Drive from Kettering to Boughton ; see Warkton Church with 
 Montagu Monuments ; to Geddington (Queen Eleanor’s Cross). Return 
 to Kettering. 
 
 3. Drive to Deene and Kirby. 
 
 6 . 
 
 Tour from Northampton . 
 
 1. To Weedon by rail, drive or walk from Weedon to Stowe-Nine- 
 Churches. In evening to Daventry. 
 
 2. From Daventry to Fawsley or Canons Ashby. 
 
 3. Drive to Banbury. 
 
 4. Visit Edgehill from Banbury. 
 
 5. From Banbury to Brackley, so back to Northampton. 
 
 7. 
 
 For Rutland nothing need be added to the information given in the 
 several Routes. The centres (§ XXI.) are Stamford, Oakham, and 
 Uppingham. 
 
MAPS AND PLANS. 
 
 Plan op Peterborough Cathedral . . . . . . to face page 67 
 
 Map op Northants and Rutland at end. 
 
HANDBOOK 
 
 FOR 
 
 NORTHAMPTONSHIRE AND RUTLAND. 
 
 SECTION I. 
 
 NORTHAMPTONSHIRE. 
 
 ROUTES. 
 
 %* The names of places are printed in Italics only in those routes where the places 
 
 are described. 
 
 ROUTE PAGri 
 
 1 London to Northampton , via 
 
 Blisworth (London & N.W. 
 Railway) 2 
 
 2 Northampton to Peterbo- 
 
 rough ( EarVs Barton , High- 
 am Ferrers , Fotheringhay. 
 
 Exc. from Peterborough, 
 Crowland ), London & N.W. 
 Kailway 14 
 
 3 Peterborough to Stamford 
 
 ( Burghley , Bar mack) .. . . 86 
 
 4 Northampton to Rugby 
 
 ( Weedon,Daventry ). Bailway 105 
 
 5 Northampton by Towcester to 
 
 Stratford-on-Avon ( Canons 
 Ashby , Edgehill). Bailway 123 
 
 6 Banbury to Northampton, 
 
 Farthingho to Brackley. 
 Bailway 152 
 
 7 Northampton to Rugby, by 
 
 Boad ( Altliorp , Holdenby ) .. 157 
 
 ROUTE PAGE 
 
 8 Northampton to Market Har- 
 
 borough (Bailway). Brix- 
 ivorth , Naseby 173 
 
 9 Northampton to Kettering , 
 
 by 182 
 
 10 Kettering to Stamford by 
 
 ( Boughton , Gedding- 
 ton , Beane ) 188 
 
 11 Kettering to Bochingham , 
 
 by jRoad 195 
 
 12 Wellingborough by to 
 
 Market Harborough (Botli- 
 welf, Bushton) 200 
 
 13 Rugby to Market Har- 
 
 borough ; M. Harborough 
 to Stamford, by Bail . . 207 
 
 14 Thrapston by Bail to Ketter- 
 
 ing 211 
 
 15 Thrapston to Kimbolton, 
 
 by Bail. (Baunds, Stan- 
 wieli) 211 
 
 ROUTE 1. 
 
 LONDON TO NORTHAMPTON, VIA 
 BLISWORTH. 
 
 (London and North-Western Rly., 
 Euston Station. Many trains daily. 
 Change at Blisworth for North- 
 ampton. By the fast trains the dis- 
 tance (67J m.) is performed in If hr. 
 
 For the line passed over between 
 the Euston Stat. and Tring, see 
 Handbook for Hertfordshire. At 
 34 J m. from Euston we reach Tring 
 Stat., and pass almost at once after 
 leaving it into Buckinghamshire. 
 For a full description of the places of 
 interest passed by the rly. in its pro- 
 gress through that county, see Hand- 
 book for Buckinghamshire. B ere they 
 can be only briefly noticed. 
 
 [ Northants , & c.] 
 
 B 
 
2 
 
 Route 1 . — London to Northampton . 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 2 J m. W. of Tring Stat. is Drayton 
 Beauchamp, where the “ judicious ” 
 Hooker was rector during the years 
 1584-5, “behaving himself so as 
 to give no occasion of evil.” Here 
 it was that, as we read in the pages 
 of Walton, he was visited by his two 
 pupils, George Cranmer and Edwin 
 Sandy s, who found him in the “ un- 
 comfortable companionship” of his 
 wife Joan; and here “Richard” 
 was called to “rock the cradle.” 
 Edwin Sandys related his tutor's 
 “sad condition” to his father, then 
 Archbishop of York, and in the fol- 
 lowing year Hooker was made 
 Master of the Temple. 
 
 The ridges and heights of the 
 Chiltern Hills are seen rt. of the 
 line; and the fine Ch. of Ivinghoe, 
 cruciform and Dec., with a good 
 timber roof and many brasses, lies 
 1 m. E. 1 m. W. is Marsworth, with 
 a Perp. church. 
 
 36 m. is Cheddington Junct. Stat., 
 whence a branch line of rly. runs 
 to Aylesbury , 7J m. The Perp. 
 church has been restored by Street. 
 Conspicuous N. is Mentmore Towers, 
 the stately residence of Baron Meyer 
 de Rothschild. There are some good 
 pictures and other works of art, be- 
 sides a fine collection of majolica 
 and enamels. Wing Ch., with pos- 
 sible Saxon work, is passed 1. before 
 the line reaches 
 
 40 1 m. Leighton Junct. Stat. A 
 branch line runs hence to Dunstaple 
 and Luton (see Handbook for Bed- 
 fordshire ). The fine church of 
 
 Leighton Buzzard, seen rt., is fully 
 described in Bedfordshire , Rte. 4. 
 Between this and 
 
 46f m. Bletchley Junct., there is 
 nothing calling for notice. At 
 Bletchley lines run west to Oxford, 
 and east to Bedford (see Handbook 
 for Bedfordshire). The Perp. ch. 
 of Bletchley was restored by the 
 antiquary Browne Willis in 1704; 
 but his work has of late years been 
 “undone.” There is a striking 
 avenue of ancient yew-trees, and, in 
 
 the church, the tomb of Richard, 
 Lord Grey of Wilton, d. 1442. The 
 town of Fenny Stratford, once 
 famous for its inns (it was on the 
 old high road to London — the Wat- 
 ling Street), lies 1 m. rt. The next 
 stat. is 
 
 52 J m. Wolverton Junct., where 
 a branch, 4 m., runs N.E. to New- 
 port Pagnell. Wolverton (the vil- 
 lage is 1 m. W. of the stat.) has 
 a pseudo-Norman church, built in 
 1815 ; and at New Wolverton is 
 a modern E. E. one. The pop. is 
 mainly in the employ of the London 
 and N. W. Rly. There is a model 
 lodging-house, and a science and 
 art institute. 2 m. W., on the 
 Ouse, is Stony Stratford, where the 
 Watling Street crosses the river. One 
 of the Eleanor crosses stood in the 
 town of Stony Stratford, and was de- 
 stroyed in 1646. At about 55 m. from 
 London the rly. crosses the border 
 of Buckinghamshire, and reaches at 
 
 60 m. Boade Stat. 
 
 [On the extreme border of North- 
 amptonshire, rt., is the little vil- 
 lage of Hartwell, on high ground, 
 and on the southern limit of Salcey 
 Forest. The present church was 
 built in 1851, and into it was worked 
 a late Norm, arcade, removed from 
 the church then destroyed. There 
 is much enrichment in the capitals 
 and outer arch mouldings, which 
 spring somewhat remarkably from a 
 crown of leaves placed on the capital. 
 This Hartwell must not be con- 
 founded with Hartwell near Ayles- 
 bury, the residence, from 1810 to 
 1814, of the exiled Louis XYII1. 
 Close to the rly., rt., is Stoke Bruern; 
 where the Church, Dec. and Perp., 
 but with Norm, portions (inner por- 
 tal of tower), was restored in 1865. 
 There are some monuments, but 
 none of much importance. 1. of the 
 rly. is Stoke Bruern Park, belonging 
 to F. W. J. Vernon Wentworth, Esq. 
 The house (of which the S. elevation 
 is engraved in Campbell’s Vitruvius 
 Britannicus) was built by Sir Francis 
 
Northants. Route 1 . — Courteenhall Hall — Bits worth. 
 
 3 
 
 Crane (who established a manufac- 
 ture of tapestry at Mortlock), partly 
 from a design brought from Italy, 
 and partly with the assistance of 
 Inigo Jones. It was begun about 
 1630, and finished before 1636; be- 
 tween wh’cli years Sir Francis re- 
 ceived a visit here from Charles I. 
 and his queen. The house lias 
 however been altered since its com- 
 pletion, and during the present cen- 
 tury was partly cased in white free- 
 stone. 
 
 Near Stoke Bruern the rly. runs 
 nearly parallel with the Grand Junc- 
 tion Canal ; which passes from 
 Braunston on the border of War- 
 wickshire, where it unites with the 
 Oxford Canal, and proceeds thence 
 to Blisworth, whence there is a 
 branch to Northampton. The main 
 canal runs onwaid from Blisworth 
 to Cosgrove, and so into Bucking- 
 hamshire. At Stoke Bruefri the 
 canal is carried on a level above the 
 houses in the lower part of the vil- 
 lage. Seven locks lift the naviga- 
 tion to the entrance of a tunnel, 
 If m. long, known as the Blisworth 
 tunnel; the southern end of which 
 is a short distance from the village. 
 
 Ashton Ch ., passed beyond Stoke, 
 is late Perp. (restored), and is only 
 interesting for the monuments it 
 contains. There is a woodtn effigy 
 of a cross-legged knight, Sir Philip 
 le Lou, Lord of “ Esshe,” who was 
 living in 1315, much shattered. 
 On an altar-tomb in the N. wall, 
 with trefoil-headed arches in front, 
 is the effigy of Sir John Herteshull, 
 or Hardreshull (they were of Harts- 
 hill, in Warwickshire), d. circa 1365. 
 He is in armour, carved in alabaster. 
 There is also an altar-tomb, with 
 brasses for Robert Marriott, d. circa 
 1580, and wife. Beneath the figures 
 is a long inscription, which partly 
 runs 
 
 “ Robert Marriott here dothe lie, a yeoman 
 bieste with goode.” 
 
 In England bred, in Ashton dwelte, an 
 awneient mairied man, 
 
 Where goodes he lelt, and nowe is gone 
 to earth from whence he cam.” 
 
 He is bare-headed, and wears a mer- 
 chant’s gown, faced with minever.] 
 There is nothing at Roade to de- 
 lay the tourist. The little church is 
 Trans.-Norm., with an enriched S. 
 door, 
 
 [1 m. N. of Roade is Courteenhall 
 Hall (occupied by C. 0. Dormer, 
 Esq.; it belongs to Sir Herew T ard 
 Wake), a large square mansion, in a 
 well-wooded park. The Church con- 
 tains a monument, with life-sized 
 figures, in white marble, for Sir 
 Samuel Jones, d. 1672, and his wife. 
 Sir Samuel was the founder of a 
 free school here.] 
 
 Through a very deep cutting, 
 crossing the parishes of Roade and 
 Courteenhall, which cost 200,000Z., 
 and is one of the most noticeable m 
 the country, we reach 
 
 62 J m. Blisworth Junct. Hence 
 the main line of the N. W. Rly. pro- 
 ceeds to Rugby and Birmingham. 
 Branch lines run W. and S.W. to 
 Stratford-on-Avon (by Fenny Comp- 
 ton) ; by Towcester to Banbury ; and 
 northward, by Northampton to Peter- 
 borough. Blisworth is thus a great 
 railway centre ; and about 350 trains, 
 passenger and goods, pass through 
 the station daily. Opposite the sta- 
 tion is the Railivay Hotel , where 
 carriages may be hired. 
 
 The Ch. of Blisworth (1 m. from 
 the btat.), restored 1855, is of no 
 very great interest. Near it is Blis- 
 ivorth House (Captain Maunsell). 
 Ironstone is much worked in the 
 parish. 
 
 Besides the trains running direct 
 from Blisworth to Peterborough (of 
 which there are five daily, all of 
 which of course stop at Northamp- 
 ton), there is a very frequent service 
 of short trains between Blisworth 
 and Northampton. The time of 
 passage is ten minutes. There is 
 nothing which calls for notice until 
 we reach 
 
 b 2 
 
4 
 
 Sect. I 
 
 Route 1.— Northampton : History . 
 
 67 i m. from London, Northamp- 
 ton. 
 
 (The stat. (Bridge St.) at which 
 the train stops is on the rt. bank 
 of the Nen, J m. from the centre of 
 the town. Omnibuses meet the 
 trains. There are three rly. stations 
 in Northampton : Bridge St., at 
 which the trains arrive from Blis- 
 worth, and whence they proceed 
 to Peterborough ; that called the 
 Castle Station , adjoining the Castle 
 ruins, on the S. W. side of the town, 
 from which trains run to Market 
 Harborough; and the Midland , in 
 the town, whence trains run to Bed- 
 ford. The pop. of the borough of 
 Northampton in 1871 was 41,168 
 (in 1861, 32,813). Hotels: the 
 
 George (best) near All Saints’ Ch., 
 noisy, and not too reasonable in its 
 charges ; the Angel.) 
 
 The town of Northampton (the 
 “ Hamtune ” of the Saxon Chronicle ; 
 afterwards, as “North” Hampton, 
 distinguished from the port of 
 “South” Hampton) stretches up- 
 ward along the ririge of high ground 
 on the 1. bank of the Nen, at a point 
 where that river, flowing from the 
 western border of the county, makes 
 a bend towards the N.E. North- 
 ampton seems to have been one of 
 the first important centres (others 
 were Bedford and Huntingdon) of 
 the “ Middle Angles,” as they are 
 called, an Anglian race which oc- 
 cupied this eastern portion of Mercia. 
 The Danes possessed themselves of 
 the “burgh” in the 9th centy., and 
 submitted in 921 to Edward the 
 Elder, during the expedition in 
 which he subdued this part of the 
 “Danelagh.” In 1010 a Danish 
 host, in that great harrying of the 
 country which preceded Svend’s 
 conquest of it, burned Northampton, 
 and “took thereabout as much as 
 they would;” and in 1065, when 
 Northumbria revolted against Tostig 
 and deposed him, Morkere, who was 
 chosen in his place, marched south- 
 ward, joined by the men of Lincoln, 
 
 Nottingham, and Derby, reached 
 Northampton, and made it his head- 
 quarters. He was met here by his 
 brother Eadwine, at the head of the 
 men of his Mercian earldom ; and 
 together they ravaged the surround- 
 ing country, “ slew men, burned 
 houses and corn, took cattle, and 
 led north with them many hundred 
 men ” — apparently as slaves. North- 
 amptonshire and the other shires 
 near it, were, says the Chronicle, 
 “ for many winters the worse.” 
 There had been some ancient con- 
 nexion between the great earldom 
 of Northumbria and the shire of 
 Northampton (for which reason, per- 
 haps, Morkere stationed his “ host ” 
 in and about the “burgh”), and 
 Siward had been earl of both. At 
 the settlement between Morkere and 
 the Confessor, whicli Harold ar- 
 ranged at a great gemote held at 
 Oxford, it was determined that 
 Northamptonshire should be alto- 
 gether separated from Northumbria, 
 and the earldom, together with that 
 of Huntingdonshire, was assigned 
 to Waltheof, son of Siward (see 
 Freeman’s ‘ Norm. Conq.’ ii. 499, 
 and the Note G, on the great earl- 
 doms). Waltheof held them until 
 his beheading at Winchester in 
 1076. His wife, Judith, niece of the 
 Conqueror, retained large estates in 
 Northamptonshire, and legend (for 
 it is nothing more) asserts that the 
 Conqueror desired to give her in 
 marriage to Simon of Senlis, who 
 was lame, and who in the story 
 appears as “ Earl of Northampton.” 
 Judith refused a lame husband, and 
 fled from the wrath of William to 
 Here ward’s refuge in the marshes 
 of Ely. All this story is mythical ; 
 but it is certain that a daughter 
 of Waltheof and Judith did marry 
 Simon of Senlis, and conveyed to 
 him the earldoms of Northampton- 
 shire and Huntingdonshire. (For 
 the succession of the Huntingdon- 
 shire earldom see Handbook for 
 Huntingdonshire .) Simon of Senlis 
 
Northants. 
 
 5 
 
 Boute 1 . — Northampton : History . 
 
 was the founder of the Norman 
 cus tie at Northampton and of the 
 neighbouring priory of St. Andrew. 
 
 The central position of Northamp- 
 ton, in the midst of a great forest 
 district (for the greater part of the 
 county was at one time included 
 within the bounds of the forest of 
 Rockingham), made it a favourite 
 resort of the Norman and Angevin 
 kings. Henry I. kept Easter here. 
 Many great councils and parliaments 
 were held here, sitting in the great 
 hall of the castle, which descended, 
 with the title of earl, to the grand- 
 son of the founder, Simon of Senlis, 
 but had passed sometime before his 
 death in 1184 (when the earldom in 
 that line became extinct) into the 
 hands of the crown. In 1164, during 
 a great council of Henry II., the 
 famous scene took place in the castle 
 hall, when Archbp. Becket appeared 
 bearing his own cross, and after the 
 bishops had renounced their obe- 
 dience to him, escaped by night to 
 Sandwich, and thence crossed to 
 Flanders. There w'as another great 
 council here in 1176, when the Con- 
 stitutions of Clarendon were ratified ; 
 when the king of Scotland was pre- 
 sent, and England was first divided 
 into six circuits, to each of which 
 three itinerant judges were ap- 
 ointed. (For the later 'parliaments 
 eld here see post.) Richard I., after 
 his return from captivity, kept Eas- 
 ter at Northampton. King John was 
 especially fond of the town, and paid 
 it frequent visits, sometimes four 
 in the year, throughout his reign. 
 (Shakespeare accordingly opens his 
 play of ‘King John’ at Northamp- 
 ton.) Henry III. was often here, 
 and was holding a great council in 
 1224 when the news was brought to 
 him of the rebellion of Faulke de 
 Breaute, whom the archbishop and 
 other prelates present anathema- 
 tized, and the council granted a 
 subsidy for making machines for 
 the siege of Bedford Castle (see 
 Handbook for Bedfordshire). To- 
 
 ward the middle of the cen- 
 tury Northampton had nearly taken 
 the place of Oxford as one of 
 the principal universities of the 
 country, in consequence of the 
 violent disputes between the uni- 
 versity and the town, the students 
 abandoned Oxford, and in 1260 
 settled at Northampton, where the 
 mayor, bailiffs, and other “good 
 men” were directed (in 1261) by 
 Henry III. to afford them protection 
 and accommodation. They were 
 recalled, however, somewhat later, 
 by the entreaties of the people of 
 Oxford, and by the king’s command, 
 and Northampton lost its greatest 
 chance of distinction. In 1264 the 
 town was taken possession of by the 
 barons. Prince Edward, on the king’s 
 side, assaulted it ; the younger He 
 Montfort was taken prisoner early in 
 the siege ; the castle was gained by 
 stratagem, and the town sacked by 
 the royalists — events which led to 
 a firmer union of the barons, and to 
 the battle of Lewes (May 14, 1264). 
 In 1267 there was a great gathering 
 of nobles here, and 100 knights as- 
 sumed the cross in presence of Henry 
 III. and his court. In 1290 the body 
 of Queen Eleanor, on its way from 
 Lincolnshire to London, rested here, 
 and the cross which still remains 
 was raised in commemoration. In 
 1460, the army of Henry VI. was 
 defeated by the Duke of York, with 
 great loss, in the meadows near the 
 convent of Delapre (see post) outside 
 the town. Many nobles fell ; Queen 
 Margaret fled to Scotland, and Henry 
 himself remained a prisoner in the 
 hands of the duke. 
 
 Parliaments were held at North- 
 ampton in 1307, immediately after 
 the death of Ed. I. at Burgh -on-the 
 Sands ; in 1328, when what is known 
 as the “first statute of Northamp- 
 ton” was enacted, which confirmed 
 the great charters and amended the 
 criminal law; in 1338; and in 1381, 
 when the “ second statute of North- 
 ampton ” was passed, enforcing the 
 
6 
 
 Route 1 . — Northampton : Trade . 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 ganging of nil foreign wines, and 
 proclaiming the terms of the royal 
 pardon for escaped felons. The last 
 of these parliaments was held in a 
 “ chamber of St. Andrew’s Priory,” 
 and it is probable that none had 
 been held in the castle since that of 
 1307. The great hall there had 
 been destroyed by fire before 1323, 
 and there is no evidence that it was 
 ever rebuilt. The castle had fallen 
 much into ruin, and served as a 
 prison from the reign of Ed. III. 
 until the last century, when it passed 
 into private hands. 
 
 The burgli of Northampton, like 
 other English towns, obtained its 
 charters of liberties by purchase and 
 by payment of an annual sum to 
 the royal exchequer. The earliest 
 charter was granted by Richard I., 
 and the result of all the charters 
 was to give the town increased 
 freedom from the jurisdiction and 
 encroachments of all persons and 
 authorities outside its liberty. The 
 “ prsepositus,” or provost, becomes 
 at last a mayor ; and the borough 
 was finally “ incorporated ” by the 
 name of the “ mayor, bailiffs, and 
 burgesses of Northampton,” in 1460, 
 the year of the battle of Delapre. 
 (The several charters will be found 
 in Hartshorne’s 4 Hist. Memorials of 
 Northampton,’ 1848, and afford an 
 excellent illustration of the gradual 
 growth in liberty of an English 
 town.) Many guilds existed among 
 the burgesses and the craftsmen, one 
 of the most important being that of 
 the shoemakers, whose trade had be- 
 come the principal in Northampton 
 'as it is at present) before the reign 
 of Edward VI. The “ winter shoes ” 
 of Wm. de Blatherwyk, foxhunter of 
 Edward I., and those of his 2 assist- 
 ants, cost here 7s. ; and King John 
 gave 12 d. for a pair of single-soled 
 boots (pro 1 pari botarum singu- 
 larum). The citizens furnished 
 Cromwell’s army, in 1648, with 1500 
 pairs of shoes : and there is an old 
 saying that a you may know when 
 
 *you are within a mile of Northamp- 
 ton by the smell of the leather and 
 the noise of the lapstones.” The 
 trade received its greatest impulse 
 from the government contracts ob- 
 tained for it by Spencer Percival, 
 who sat as member for the borough 
 up to the time of his assassination 
 (the town was one of the first to 
 send members to parliament). In 
 1844 Queen Victoria passed through 
 Northampton on her way to Bur- 
 leigh, and the mayor presented 
 Prince Albert with a pair of boots. 
 Northampton supplied the Crimea 
 with mud-boots, and sent shoes to the 
 French army during the war with 
 Prussia. The quantity of leather 
 sold at its fairs , which were im- 
 portant (one of them continued for a 
 month) was, and still is, very great. 
 It was the chief mart for the old 
 “ leather bottel.” 
 
 The visitor to Northampton will 
 at once be reminded, by the leather 
 aprons and grimy faces which haunt 
 tiie streets, that he is in a land of 
 shoemakers — a somewhat turbulent 
 race, who, on more than one oc- 
 casion, have rendered the parlia- 
 mentary elections here scenes of 
 unusual riot. There are large tan- 
 yards, and one or two important 
 breweries, especially that of Phipps, 
 a fine building in Bridge Street. The 
 town has four principal streets, one 
 of which (Bridge Street) climbs a 
 steep hill from the river side, and 
 the church of All Saints stands in 
 an open place near the crossing. 
 The Market Square, which lies off 
 the street (the Drapery) running 
 northward, has been called ‘‘the 
 finest in Europe ” — an extravagant 
 and unkindly laudation. It is, how- 
 ever, a good “ emplacement,” though 
 not over picturesque. In the centre 
 is a well designed drinking fountain 
 and lamp, given, in 1863, by Samuel 
 Isaac, captain of the 5th corps of 
 Northants. Volunteers. On the N. 
 is a new Corn Exchange — by no 
 means to be commended — with a 
 
Northants. Boute 1. — Northampton: Town Hall ; Churches . 7 
 
 long, unbroken mass of roof, which 
 asserts itself most unpleasantly in all 
 distant views of the town. In spite 
 of its antiquity, and of the royal 
 favour it could so long boast of, 
 Northampton is an ordinary-looking 
 town, with few (apparent) marks of 
 great age, and with no very ancient 
 houses. This is, no doubt, owing in 
 part to the great fire of 1675, when 
 600 houses were destroyed and an 
 enormous quantity of goods plun- 
 dered in the confusion. “May the 
 stolen sugars,” says a writer, who 
 describes the scene, “ fruit, spices, 
 linen, clothes, bedding, or whatever 
 else these men of prey took by fraud, 
 be bitter, hot, cold, and uneasy to 
 them, till they have eased their con- 
 sciences of so great a guilt.” There 
 is a long and pleasant modern suburb 
 on the Billing Boad eastward. The 
 visitor should see the Town Hall , 
 the Churches of St. Peter and the 
 Holy Sepulchre , which best represent 
 the ancient dignity of the place, and 
 are both of the highest interest ; the 
 church of All Saints ; and the ruins, 
 scanty enough, of the Castle. 
 
 The Town Hall in Abingdon St., 
 E. of All Saints’ Ch., was opened in 
 1861, having been three years in 
 building. The architect is E. W. 
 Godwin. It is perhaps too much 
 broken into enrichment outside and 
 in, and certainly wants repose. The 
 exterior has numerous statues of 
 English kings by Boulton of Wor- 
 cester ; and on the arches of the 
 lower windows are subjects connected 
 with the history of the place, — the 
 marriage of Waltheof and Judith ; 
 Hen. II. granting the first charter 
 to the town ; the grant of the charter 
 of incorporation of Hen. VI. ; and 
 the resting of the body of Queen 
 Eleanor, on its way to Westminster. 
 There are also, in the lower part of 
 the front, some carvings illustrating 
 various branches of the staple trade 
 (that in boots and shoes) in early 
 days. In the vestibule of the great 
 •hall are various sculptured figures, 
 
 among which St. Crispin is appro- 
 priately conspicuous ; besides groups 
 representing the various parliaments 
 held in Northampton. The great 
 hall itself is striking, with a figure 
 of Moses at the S. end, and opposite, 
 an organ (German) which obtained 
 a prize in the Exhibition of 1851. 
 The Magistrates’ Court, in which 
 the Petty Sessions are held, is. but 
 slightly decorated. The council 
 chamber is a fine room, with figures 
 and inscriptions over the fire-place, 
 — a reaper, with the words, He 
 that gathereth in summer is a wise 
 son and a man warming himself 
 over the flame,— “ Numbed with 
 holding all the day, the hatchet 
 ksene with which he felled around.” 
 On the staircase is a window of 
 which the stained glass represents 
 subjects from Tennyson’s 4 Idylls.’ 
 On the upper floor is a Museum , 
 which the visitor should see. Many 
 interesting relics discovered in dif- 
 ferent parts of the county are 
 preserved here; and the statue of 
 Spencer Perceval by Chantrey , which 
 for a long time stood in All Saints’ 
 Church, was removed to this Mu- 
 seum in 1866. Mr. Perceval was 
 killed in the lobby of the House of 
 Commons, May 11, 1812. He was 
 at that time M.P. for Northampton. 
 
 Ancient Northampton had four 
 principal churches, one in each 
 quarter of the town — St. Peter’s, the 
 H. Sepulchre, All Saints’, and St. 
 Giles’s. Of these, St. Peter’s is 
 peculiar and very rich Norm. The 
 H. Sepulchre is one of the four round 
 churches (so called) in England. 
 All Saints’ was rebuilt after the fire, 
 and, except the tower, is of Charles 
 II.’s time. St. Giles’s is chiefly 
 Perp. There are some modern 
 churches —St Edmund s and St. 
 James’s in the W. suburb, but these 
 call for no special notice. 
 
 * St. Peter s Church , near the W. 
 end of the town, above the castle 
 and the bridge which there crosses 
 the Nen, has been restored under 
 
. 
 
 8 Boute 1 . — Northampton : St. Peter’s Church . Sect. I. 
 
 Scott's direction. It is possible that 
 the whole of the existing ch. was 
 built as the choir of a much larger 
 one which was never completed. 
 There are some churches in Nor- 
 mandy of which the choirs resemble 
 this. There is, however, no evi- 
 dence to prove such an intention ; 
 and all that is certain is that the 
 ch. must have been built whilst the 
 Senlis Earls were lords of Northamp- 
 ton, and probably by the last earl 
 (d. 1184), since the ch. is of late 
 Norm, character, and may date from 
 about 1160. Some alterations were 
 made in Perp. times, when the N 
 porch was built, and Perp. windows 
 were inserted in the aisles. On the 
 exterior remark ‘the N. portal (Norm.) 
 within the porch; the corbel table 
 of heads immediately under the roof ; 
 the arrangement of the shallow ar- 
 cade, pierced at intervals’ for the 
 clerestory ; the W. front with a re- 
 markable flat arch, enriched, over 
 the tympanum of the window ; the 
 two lower stages of the tower ; and 
 the triple, pier- like buttresses at the 
 angles — the last a somewhat French 
 feature, and, at any rate, very rare 
 in England. Inside the ch. the 
 principal features are the main ar- 
 cade and the western tower arch. 
 These are highly enriched. There 
 is no strongly-marked division be- 
 tween nave and chancel, but whilst 
 in the nave the piers are alternately 
 round, with rings in the centre, 
 and grouped in 3 rounded shafts, 
 with a fourth attached, rising to the 
 roof as a vaulting shaft, in the 
 chancel the piers are all round, and 
 the two easternmost only are ringed. 
 The rings are all enriched with a 
 twisted ornament resembling metal 
 work — one of the earliest forms of 
 the ring which constantly occurs in 
 E. Eng. The nave caps, are won- 
 derfully sculptured with interlacing 
 cords, leafage, birds, and heads. 
 Those at the W. end of the chancel 
 should especially be noticed. The 
 circ. arches have plain soffetes, but 
 
 are surrounded with zigzag. Rude 
 masonry and springers remain in the 
 aisles, showing that they were once ! 
 vaulted, and perhaps loftier than at 
 present. The W. arch across the 
 tower recedes in 3 orders, and has 
 much ornament. It is unusual to 
 find so enriched an arch in this posi- 
 tion — a fact which must be remem- 
 bered in connection with the sug- 
 gestion that the present ch. may 
 have been intended at first to be 
 much larger. There is, too, a hollow 
 in the tower wall, W. of the arch, 
 which is puzzling. The tower itself 
 seems later than the rest of the ch., 
 and to have more of E. Eng. cha- 
 racter. 
 
 The E. wall of the chancel has 
 been entirely rebuilt by Scott. The 
 original east end had been replaced 
 by a modern wall, in which frag- 
 ments of the older stone-work were 
 found to be embedded ; and these to 
 some extent guided Sir G. Scott in 
 the existing arrangement of win- 
 dows, which are in 3 tiers. 
 
 In the ch. was buried John Smith, 
 an eminent “ mezzotinto scraper,” 
 died 1742. At the W. end of the 
 S. aisle is a tablet, with bust, of Dr. 
 William Smith, known as the 4 * father 
 of English Geology.” He was born 
 in 1769 at Churchill in Oxfordshire ; 
 began in 1791 to survey collieries 
 and canals near Bath, and “ observ- 
 ing that the several strata were cha- 
 racterized by peculiar groups of 
 organic remains, he adopted this 
 fact as a principle of comparison,” 
 ... and published in 1815 a geo- 
 logical map of England and Wales. 
 
 He died here, Aug. 28, 1839— on bis 
 way to the meeting of the British 
 Assoc, at Birmingham — at the house 
 of his friend George Baker, the his- 
 torian of Northamptonshire, and 
 was buried in the ch.-yd. A little 
 below, is a tablet which commemo- 
 rates Baker himself — born in North- 
 ampton 1781, died 1851 ; and his 
 sister, his helpmate in all his labours, 
 Ann Eliz. Baker, born 1786, died 
 
Northants. 
 
 9 
 
 Boute 1 . — Northampton : Churches . 
 
 1861. Only a portion of Baker's 
 County History was ever completed ; 
 but this is most excellent. The old 
 house in which he lived is still 
 standing, a little higher up the street 
 than St. Peter’s Ch., and on the same 
 side. It had belonged to Sir Arthur 
 Hazelrigge in the days of Charles I. 
 A chapel, in which Dr. Doddridge 
 preached for many years, exists in a 
 lane nearly opposite this house. 
 
 St. Sepulchre' s, as it is called, near 
 the old North gate, at the end of 
 Sheep St.), or the ch. of the Holy 
 Sepulchre, is one of 4 in England — 
 the others are at Cambridge, at Little 
 Maplestead in Essex, and the Temple 
 Ch., in London — which were built 
 under the direct influence of the 
 Crusade, and of which the form was 
 imitated from that of the Church of 
 the Holy Sepulchre at Jerusalem. 
 The 3 other churches were built by 
 Templars or Hospitallers ; but there 
 is no evidence that this ch. at North- 
 ampton was the work of either order. 
 The first Earl Simon was a crusader, 
 and he may have been the builder, 
 though this is not certain. The ch. 
 was, however, made over by Hen. I. 
 to the community of St. Andrew’s 
 Priory, certainly founded by Earl 
 Simon. The plan resembles that of 
 the other Sepulchre churches — a cir- 
 cular nave, with a long choir and 
 presbytery projecting from it. The 
 whole ch. has been restored by Scott , 
 — the rounded portion as the especial 
 memorial of the Rev. Thomas James, 
 Canon of Peterborough, d. 1864, 
 himself an earnest restorer of u waste 
 places,” and well known in all good 
 works. The massive circular piers 
 of the round (it is rather octagonal 
 than round, as the wall above indi- 
 cates) support pointed arches, and 
 above every alternate arch is a small 
 square-headed window. The font 
 (modern) is in the centre, and the 
 canopy is carried by a chain from 
 the open wooden roof, also new. The 
 font is supported by figures of 3 
 kneeling Templars, pouring water 
 
 (of the Jordan) from urns. On the 
 bowl are sculptured the baptism of 
 Our Lord, Philip and the Eunuch, 
 and other subjects. The rich tiling 
 of the floor, and the manner in which 
 sepulchral inscriptions are arranged 
 in the tiles, should be noticed. The 
 windows in the round are late Dec. 
 except 2, round-headed, S. and N. 
 The bases of the great piers were 
 almost completely buried in the 
 ground before the restoration. 
 
 Owing to the unusual ground-plan, 
 the effect looking eastward is very 
 remarkable. What is now used as 
 the nave, but was probably the ori- 
 ginal chancel, has Trans.-Norm. piers 
 on the N. side (with one later E. 
 Eng.), and massive Dec. on the S. 
 On the N. side are traces of Norm, 
 windows in the wall, which was cut 
 through to form the present arches. 
 There are remains of a fresco in one 
 of these arches never quite pierced 
 through the wall, also on the N. 
 side. There is an additional S. aisle, 
 with E. Eng. piers and caps. The 
 wall and windows, of Dec. character, 
 are new. The presbytery or apse, 
 and eastern ends of aisles, are new, 
 from Scott’s designs. Arches and 
 piers are of oolite, banded (too regu- 
 larly) in brown and white, with 
 smaller shafts of various marbles 
 The main arch is much enriched 
 with leafage. There is some modern 
 stained glass. The carving of the 
 sddilia is good ; and the choir-desks 
 are inlaid in front with variously 
 coloured woods, as at Llandaff. 
 
 W. of the round is the tower, 
 capped by a spire, and apparently 
 Perp. It is not graceful. The tower 
 has enormous angular buttresses, re- 
 ceding in 6 stages. 
 
 All Saints' Ch ., in the “ Drapery,” 
 was, except the tower, entirely de- 
 stroyed by the fire of 1675. Over 
 the portico is a statue of Charles II.; 
 and along the front runs an inscrip- 
 tion : — “ This statue was erected in 
 memory of King Charles II., who 
 gave a thousand tun of timber to- 
 B 3 
 
10 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Route 1 . — Northampton : 
 
 ward the rebuilding of this eh., and | 
 to this town.” He also remitted 
 “ chimney money ” for 7 years. (The 
 timber was taken from Whittlebury 
 Forest.) The tower (originally cen- 
 tral) is Dec., w T ith a lantern raised 
 on it. The body of the ch. is fine 
 for its period. The pillars are lofty 
 and good, and the mive ceiling and 
 the dome or cupola which rises from 
 it, are much enriched and orna- 
 mented. The Organ , first erected 
 in 1700, but almost entirely re- 
 constructed, is a very good one, 
 and deserves notice. It was on 
 the application of the clerk of this 
 ch. that Cowper, for 7 successive 
 years, furnished a “ copy of verses ” 
 to be appended to the annual “ bill 
 of mortality” kept in the parish, 
 and delivered yearly to the mayor 
 and other worthy inhabitants. The 
 clerk, as Cowper writes to Lady 
 Hesketh, walked to Weston Under- 
 wood to beg the poet’s help, telling 
 him that one Cox, a statuary, who 
 had hitherto supplied the verses, was 
 ‘•a gentleman of so much reading 
 that the people of our town cannot 
 understand him.” Cowper accord- 
 ingly consented; and “the waggon,” 
 he adds, “has gone this day to 
 Northampton loaded in part with 
 my effusions in the mortuary style. 
 A fig for poets who write epitaphs 
 upon individuals ! I have written 
 one that serves two hundred persons.” 
 The “ Northampton Tables,” on 
 which all life insurance calculations 
 have been founded, were framed by 
 Dr. Price on the bills of mortality 
 kept in All Saints Parish. 
 
 St. Giles's Ch., in Abingdon St., 
 has been enlarged and reseated 
 (1855). The chancel is E. E, with 
 a Dec. E. window inserted. There 
 is a Norm, west door: and lower 
 portions of the tower are Norm., but 
 the greater part of the church is 
 Perp. ; and there is a south chapel 
 of this date, containing an altar- 
 tomb for one of the Gobion family. 
 The central tower fell in 1613, and 
 
 St. John's Hospital. 
 
 was then rebuilt, nearly from the 
 roof upwards. 
 
 St. Johns Hospital (founded in 
 1137, by Walter, Archdeacon of 
 Northampton, for poor and infirm 
 persons), near the Midland Railway 
 Station, will probably be destroyed, 
 since the site has been bought by 
 the Railway Company. The hos- 
 pital, in which 7 old women are now 
 housed and supported, will be re- 
 arranged on a new scheme, and new 
 buildings will be erected. (A very 
 interesting house, perhaps as early 
 as the reign of John, which belonged 
 to this hospital, was pulled down in 
 order to construct the Midland Rly. 
 Station.) The existing (1875) build- 
 ing is Dec. ; and consists of what 
 was the common hall, now fitted 
 with cells, and two great loft-like 
 rooms above it, once serving as dor- 
 mitories. There is a late Dec. 
 chapel, with a Perp. W. window. 
 In the E. window are some frag- 
 ments of very good Perp. stained 
 glass, and there are more in a win- 
 dow on the staircase, including a 
 curious head of St. John (?) as a 
 pilgrim, possibly illustrating the 
 story of his appearance in that 
 form to the Confessor. Many of 
 those w^ho fell in the battle of North- 
 ampton (Delapre) were buried in the 
 little ch.-yard attached to the chapel. 
 (Humphrey, D. of Buckingham, was 
 buried in the ch. of the Friars 
 Minors, of which no trace remains.) 
 
 The ruins of the Castle of North- 
 ampton (at the bottom of Gold St., 
 and close to the Castle Station) are 
 very scanty ; but should be visited 
 for the sake of the site, and of the 
 history connected with it. The 
 story of the Castle is in reality that 
 of Northampton, and has already 
 (see ante) been given. After it 
 passed into the hands of the king 
 (about 1174), it is frequently men- 
 tioned in the Pipe Rolls as the 
 “ turris de Northampton ; ” and there 
 are many payments for repairing 
 portions of it. A survey was made 
 
Nobthants. Boute 1 . — Northampton: Castle; Priory, dec. 11 
 
 of its condition in 1253; when it was 
 found that the park was u decently 
 kept in vert, venison, and pasture,” 
 that many works had recently been 
 done in the Castle by the sheritf, 
 but that the great wall still needed 
 much repair. A survey was again 
 taken in 1323, when the whole 
 Castle was evidently in a most de- 
 cayed condition. It was probably 
 never restored to its former state, 
 and portions of it were used as pri- 
 sons for a lengthened period. The 
 Castle stood on the high bank of the 
 Nen, by which river it was defended 
 on the W. On the other sides there 
 was a deep fosse filled from the 
 river. The position is fine and open, 
 with the Abbeys of St. James (on 
 the opposite hill, see post), and 
 Delapre in sight, and the town of 
 Northampton on the east. The 
 park, which was extensive, ranged 
 on either side of the river. It is now 
 difficult to make out the ground- 
 plan of the Castle ; but there seem 
 to have been, as usual, an outer and 
 an inner ward, with a keep at the 
 N.E. end of the latter. The main 
 enceinte, or boundary wall, was 
 flanked at intervals with circular 
 towers. Portions of this wall remain, 
 and retain ashlar work here and 
 there, on the side facing the river. 
 The lower part of one of* the bastions 
 or circular towers also exists : and 
 near it is a postern (a pointed Dec. 
 arch) opening toward the Nen. 
 Within the area the shaft of a pier 
 — perhaps of the chapel or of the 
 kings’ hall — is visible. The main 
 wall and the towers are perhaps 
 temp. Hen. III. 
 
 Since 1850 there has been a R. 
 Cath. bishop of Northampton. The 
 “ pro-Cathedral ” opened in 1864, is 
 from designs by A. W. N. Pugin. 
 It contains some stained glass by 
 Hardman , panel paintings by Hess ; 
 and a large crucifix carved in veined 
 ivory by a Spanish artist. 
 
 Of the Priory of St. Andrew — 
 founded apparently, certainly largely 
 
 1 endowed, for Cluniac monks, in 1084, 
 by the first Earl Simon of Senlis — 
 there are no remains. It stood on 
 the N. side of the town. Nearly all 
 the churches in Northampton be- 
 longed to this abbey, which was at 
 first dependent on the house of S. 
 Marie de Charite, in France, but 
 was made denizen in the 6th year 
 of Ed. IV. At the Dissolution, the 
 annual net income was 263/. 7s., and 
 the house was then in an unpros- 
 perous state. 
 
 The Abbey of St. James at the 
 end of the western suburb, beyond 
 the bridge, was founded by William 
 Peverel (called natural son of the 
 Conqueror) before the year 1112, 
 for Augustinian canons. Its annual 
 income at the Dissolution was 213/. 
 17 s. The demesnes lie on both 
 sides of the road leading to Ban- 
 bury; and on the 1. much of the 
 enclosing wall (E. Eng. ?) remains. 
 
 College Street is so named from 
 a college incorporating the various 
 guilds of the town, founded by Hen. 
 VI., and placed under the. govern- 
 ment of a custos and 16 priests. It 
 was bound to pray for the “good 
 estate” of Margaret of Anjou and 
 her son Prince Edward ; and for 
 Henry himself after his death. 
 
 On the Billing Road is a la r ge 
 Convent (Notre Dame) of Belgian 
 nuns, who have a good school. 
 Beyond is the School of Art — an 
 indifferent building — and then the 
 Northamptonshire Orphanage. Here 
 also are the County Infirmary , large 
 and airy, with a pleasant garden ; 
 and an Asylum, self-supporting and 
 well-managed. This suburb on the 
 Billing Road is by far the pleasantest 
 part of Northampton. BeckeVs Well , 
 near the Infirmary, opposite an open 
 field, has a little modern Gothic 
 structure above it. There is no ap- 
 parent reason for connecting it witii 
 the famous archbishop. The County 
 Gaol in St. Giles’s Square, was re- 
 built at a cost of 25,000/., in 1846. 
 The new Cattle Market , on the S. 
 
12 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 'Route 1 . — London to Northampton . 
 
 side of the town, opened in 1873, is 
 large and well arranged. 
 
 In the immediate neighbourhood 
 of Northampton the tourist will, of 
 course, visit the Eleanor Cross , on 
 the Hardingstone Road, about 1 m. 
 S. of the town. Upton (2 m.), and 
 Dallington , m., may also be de- 
 
 scribed here. Very interesting day’s 
 excursions from Northampton may 
 be made by rly., and most of the 
 places mentioned in the following 
 routes are thus accessible. A de- 
 lightful expedition may be arranged 
 so as to comprise Althorp, Great 
 Brington, and Holdenby (Rte. 7) ; 
 and another day should certainly 
 be given to Yardley Chase, and may 
 perhaps include Castle Ashby (see 
 Rte. 2). 
 
 (a) Queen Eleanor's Cross , which 
 stands on high ground S. of the 
 town, which it overlooks, is the most 
 perfect and important of the beauti- 
 ful crosses raised by the care of 
 Edward I., at each place where the 
 body of Queen Eleanor rested on its 
 way from Harby in Nottinghamshire 
 (where she died, in the house of 
 Richard de Weston. Nov. 28, 1290) 
 to the tomb in Westminster Abbey. 
 “ Living,” wrote the King to the 
 Abbot of Cluny, “ I loved her dearly, 
 and dead, I shall never cease to love 
 her.” Wherever the procession 
 halted at night, the bier was set 
 down, and “ the King’s chancellor 
 and the great men present ” marked 
 a fitting place where a cross might 
 afterwards be erected. The bier 
 was then conveyed into the ch. where 
 it was to remain during the night. 
 Only three of these crosses remain, 
 — at Northampton, at Waltham, and 
 at Geddington; and of these the 
 Waltham cross has been so com- 
 pletely “ restored ” that it is really 
 a new structure. The cross at 
 Northampton has been cared for 
 sufficiently to preserve it from de- 
 struction; and certain defacements 
 have been removed which it under- 
 
 went in the reign of Queen Anne ; 
 when a sun-dial was placed on each 
 of the sides, a cross, 3 ft. in height, 
 was added on the top, and the whole 
 was “ repaired ” “ by order of the 
 bench of justices.” (An inscription 
 on the W. side recorded all this ; and 
 from an engraving in Brydges* 
 
 ‘ Northamptonshire,’ it appears that a 
 pair of stocks was placed under the 
 cross, a for the terror of evil-doers.” 
 The Geddington cross (see Rte. 10) 
 remains untouched. There were 
 certainly crosses at Lincoln, Stony 
 Stratford, Woburn, Dunstable, St. 
 Alban’s, Cheap, and Charing, all of 
 which have perished. It is said also 
 that crosses were erected at Grantham 
 and at Stamford. The architect of 
 this cross at Northampton, as well 
 as of those at Stony Stratford, Wo- 
 burn, Dunstable, and St. Alban’s, 
 was a certain John de Bello or de la 
 Battaile; and Alexander of Abing- 
 don, and William of Ireland were 
 employed on the statues. These 
 crosses were all built between 1291 
 and 1294. 
 
 The Northampton cross, standing 
 on the 1. side of the highway, is 
 raised on 8 steps and a base. It 
 is octagonal, and now consists of 
 three portions, the lower filled with 
 canopied tracery and shields of arms ; 
 the second containing four statues of 
 Queen Eleanor, under rich canopies ; 
 and the third rising with canopied 
 panelling and rich finials. The 
 uppermost portion, above this, has 
 been broken off, and it is now quite 
 uncertain in what manner the whole 
 design — one of the most beautiful 
 in the whole range of Gothic archi- 
 tecture — was completed. All the 
 details are full of grace and deli- 
 cacy. The foliage is throughout 
 natural, and nothing can exceed the 
 beauty of that in the upper tier 
 above the figures of the queen. A 
 cornice of open roses, with leaves 
 supporting a cresting, forms the 
 base on which these figures rest. 
 Small open books on desks are 
 
13 
 
 Nobthants. Route 1 . — Eleanor Cross — Upton Hall. 
 
 placed in the alternate panels of 
 the lowest division. The statues 
 of the queen vary in arrangement 
 and position, but all are most 
 graceful, and there can be no doubt 
 that they give us the true “ pre- 
 sentment ” of Eleanor of Castile. 
 The character and expression are 
 the same as in the effigy on her 
 tomb at Westminster. The whole 
 work is of a grey stone, but little 
 weather-tinted, and encroached on 
 in one part by a few sprays of ivy. 
 The freshness of the sculpture is 
 remarkable. Unhappily, the cross 
 is covered, as high as possible, with 
 “ names ignoble, born to be forgot, 1 ” 
 the idle work of those who are with- 
 out reverence for the monument or 
 for the noble queen whom it com- 
 memorates. 
 
 The view from the Cross shows 
 well the position of Northampton, in 
 the valley of the Nen. Below, to the 
 rt., is seen, among woods, Delapre 
 Abbey, the modem house of J. A. S. 
 Bouverie, Esq. The abbey, on the 
 site of which it stands, was founded 
 for Cluniac nuns by the second 
 Simon of Senlis, Earl of Northamp- 
 ton. He endowed it with many 
 churches, including that of Fother- 
 inghay, and the annual revenue at 
 the suppression was 119Z. 9s. It 
 was, no doubt, in the chapel of this 
 convent that the bier of Queen 
 Eleanor rested for a night. The 
 modern house contains little of in- 
 terest. In the meadows beyond the 
 abbey the army of Henry VI. en- 
 trenched themselves before the battle 
 of 1460, and were driven back on the 
 river (see ante). 
 
 A causeway will have been ob- 
 served by the siile of the road from 
 Northampton, perfect in the lower 
 ground near the town. This was 
 constructed at the same time as the 
 cross, and cost 40Z. and 60 marks. 
 It was executed “ for the benefit of 
 Eleanor’s soul that is, partly as a 
 work of charity, and partly to enable 
 those who desired, to reach the cross 
 
 more easily, where they might pray 
 for the queen’s welfare. 
 
 The village of Hardingstone is 
 about 1 m, beyond the cross, on a 
 road branching 1. The Church , re- 
 stored 1869, has E. Eng. portions, 
 the most interesting being the tower 
 arch, which is built of irregularly 
 sized stones, alternately varying in 
 colour. There is a large oval camp, 
 called Hunsborougli , in the parish 
 (lying due W. of the cross), with 
 single ditch and double vallum. It 
 stands on high ground, commanding 
 wide views. 
 
 (b) Upton Hall (Gervase Wright, 
 Esq.) is 2 m. from Northampton, on 
 the Daventry Road. A shoemaking 
 suburb is passed through before 
 ascendipg the hill, from which there 
 is a good view of the town. The 
 hall has been much refaced and 
 decorated, temp. Anne, but contains 
 part of a wooden roof of the 14th 
 centy., well worked and designed 
 (this is hidden above the roof of 
 the present saloon). From an early 
 period it belonged to the Samwell s, 
 one of whom, Jane Samwell, married 
 Sir Sapcote Harington, and became 
 the mother, in 1611, of James 
 Harington, the once well-known 
 author of the 4 Oceana,’ born here 
 in January, 1611. His portrait 
 remains in the house, besides a 
 replica of the portrait at Woburn of 
 Lucy Harington, Countess of Bed- 
 ford. Here is also an interesting 
 picture of Sir John Finett, Master 
 of the Ceremonies to James I., with 
 a view of the Thames in the dis- 
 tance. The little church adjoining 
 was originally Norm., but Dec. 
 windows have been inserted. There 
 is a tablet for Harington of the 
 4 Oceana,’ who was buried in St. 
 Margaret’s Church, Westminster, in 
 1677, and a monument with an edify- 
 ing inscription for Sir Thos, Samwell, 
 who, in 1745, “ when a vile crew of 
 lawless wretches scattered the flames 
 of rebellion into the very heart of 
 this country,” “accepted of a com- 
 
14 
 
 Route 2 . — Northampton to Peterborough. Sect. I. 
 
 mission ” in one of the principal re- 
 giments raised for the Government. 
 (The Church of Kislingbury , 14 m. 
 beyond Upton, 1. of the road, is 
 mainly Dec., with a very beautiful 
 E. window (flowing). The tower 
 and spire are somewhat earlier. The 
 piers of the nave are unusually lofty, 
 with moulded capitals. The arches 
 sharply pointed. Altogether, this 
 church deserves a visit.) 
 
 (c) At Dallington is a small E. 
 Eng. Cli ., perhaps built by Geoffry 
 de Lucy, the first of nine genera- 
 tions of that family who held the 
 manor. It was afterwards the pro- 
 perty of E. Eaynsford, one of Charles 
 I.’s judges, who did not sign the 
 king’s death-warrant, but was im- 
 prisoned in the Tower for life, and 
 died there in ±667. His son, Sir 
 Eich. Eaynsford, became Oh. Justice 
 of England in 1676, d. 1679, and is 
 buried in Dallington Church, be- 
 neath a gorgeous monument of black 
 and white marble. The present Dal- 
 lington Hall (occupied by S. Sharpe, 
 Esq.) w r as built by Sir Joseph Jekyll, 
 Master of the Eolls, who at his 
 death, in 1745, left his fortune for 
 the reduction of the national debt. 
 A quantity of fragments of Eoman 
 and British pottery was found in 
 this parish in the bank of a railway 
 cutting, and probably indicate the 
 site of a small manufactory of rough 
 ware, inferior, both in material and 
 workmanship, to the Castor pottery. 
 Similar pottery has been discovered 
 within the enclosure of Northampton 
 Castle, associated with Saxon and 
 Norman fragments. It is very re- 
 markable that the same manufac- 
 ture, the same materials, make, and 
 patterns, continued all along through 
 so many centuries and so many 
 changes. (At Duston , a 1 ittle S.W. 
 of Dallington, Samian fragments, 
 bronze relics, paving tesserse, coins 
 ranging from Nerva to the sons of 
 Constantine the Great, and skeletons 
 have been found, marking probably 
 the site of a Eoman villa, which 
 
 must have been in existence for at 
 least 150 years.) 
 
 (d) 2 m. from Northampton, on 
 the Wellingborough Eoad, is the 
 little Trans.-Norm. and Perp. Ch. 
 of Weston Favell , picturesquely situ- 
 ated among fine trees and pleasant 
 woodland scenery. (The tower is 
 throughout Trans.-Norm.) Here is 
 a curious piece of needlework, 
 wrought by a Lady Holman, in 
 1698, and representing the Passover. 
 Above are the words “ Gloria Deo 
 below, “ Weston Favell, December, 
 1698.” James Hervey, author of the 
 once well-known ‘ Meditations,’ w T as 
 rector of Weston Favell, and lies 
 buried here, within the altar rails. 
 He was a native of the neighbour- 
 ing parish of Hardingstone. In his 
 day, and after the publication of 
 his books, there was a throng of 
 pilgrims to the place, and we are 
 told that “ Weston Favell was almost 
 as well known as London.” 
 
 At Kingsthorpe , 1J m. on the 
 Leicester road, is a church with 
 Norm, portions, restored 1863, but 
 of no very great interest. 
 
 EOUTE 2. 
 
 NORTHAMPTON TO PETERBOROUGH. 
 
 London and North-Western Ely. 
 
 This line of railway, which follows 
 for the most part the valley of the 
 Nen (the name is said to be a cor- 
 ruption of “ Aune,” or “ Avon,” but 
 this seems more than doubtful), w T ill 
 enable the tourist to visit, from its 
 different stations, some of the most 
 important and interesting of the 
 many fine churches for which North- 
 amptonshire is famous. “ The Saxon 
 
15 
 
 Northants. Bouie 2. — Great Billing — Billing Kail. 
 
 tower of Earls Barton ; the complete 
 E. Eng. church of Warmington, 
 with its wooden vaulting and ex- 
 quisite capitals ; the unique octagon 
 of Stanwick ; the lanterns of Lowick, 
 Irthlingborough, and Fotheringhay : 
 the spires of Raunds, Rushden, and 
 Irchester; Finedon, perfect in the 
 best style; Strixton, the model of 
 an earlier one; the fine steeple of 
 Oundle, are but selections out of a 
 line of churches, some but little 
 inferior, terminating in the grand 
 W. front and more solemn interior 
 of Peterborough Cathedral.” — Canon 
 James. The Nen, N. of Northampton, 
 is a deep-flowing stream, full of wind- 
 ings and reaches, with a broad level 
 of pasture and corn land on either 
 side of it. From this level, both rt. 
 and 1., rises a ridge of high ground, 
 always raised above the overflowing 
 of the river, which was frequently 
 destructive before the drainage of 
 the North Level of the Fens, and the 
 construction by Telford and Rennie, 
 in 1830, of a new “Nen outfall,” 
 carried through the sandbanks into 
 the deep water of the Wash. On 
 the ridge, thus safe from inundation, 
 were founded some of the most an- 
 cient settlements in the county. The 
 course of the Nen was one of the 
 high roads into the centre of Eng- 
 land ; and although no main Ro- 
 man way seems to have been driven 
 through the valley, there was a small 
 camp at Irchester, besides many 
 villas; and coins have been found 
 everywhere. 
 
 “Terrace gravels” occur on the 
 hilly sides of the Nen valley (to- 
 ward Kingsthorpe, and northward 
 in the direction of Peterborough), 
 identical with the gravel in the 
 valley of the Ouse near Bedford. 
 Remains of enormous mammalia 
 have been found in them, including 
 2 species of elephant : one of which 
 must have been of great size. An 
 enormous tusk, 10 ft. long and 2 ft. 
 in circumference at the base, found 
 at Orton Longueville, near Peter- 
 
 borough, is preserved by the Mar- 
 chioness of Huntly. 
 
 Leaving Northampton from the 
 Bridge St. Station, we first stop at 
 
 Billing Road Stat ., about 2J m. 
 Here the churches of Little and 
 Great Billing are close at hand. 
 That of Little Billing is indifferent 
 Perp., and is only interesting for its 
 remarkable font (fig. by Van Voorst), 
 which is very rude Norman, shaped 
 like a tall jar, and bearing an in- 
 scription (which seems to be imper- 
 fect) earlier than that on the font of 
 Keysoe, in Bedfordshire (see Hand- 
 book for Beds.). It runs: “Wilberh- 
 tus artifex atq. Cementarius hunc 
 fabricavit. Quisquis suum venit mer- 
 gere corpus procul dubiocapit.” This 
 font, of course, belonged to a church 
 much more ancient than the present. 
 The manor of Little Billing belonged 
 for a considerable period to the 
 Longuevilles, and the remains of 
 their house (early 16th centy.) are 
 still conspicuous in the village. The 
 Church of Great Billing (restored 
 1867) is of more interest. It seems 
 to have been rebuilt in early Dec. 
 times, and the piers and caps, of 
 the nave, of that period, are some- 
 what unusual. A single Norm. cap. 
 and base shows that there had been 
 an earlier ch. The tower, early 
 Dec., is of three stories, and was 
 originally surmounted by a spire, 
 which was destroyed by lightning 
 in 1795. The existing parapet be- 
 longed to an old house of the Earls 
 of Thomond, taken down in 1776. 
 Billing Hall (V. D. H. Cary-Elwes, 
 Esq.) occupies the site of this 
 house. (The pedestrian may cross 
 the Nen by a bridge a little above 
 Little Billing, and return to North- 
 ampton by little and Great Hough- 
 ton, — distance about 5 m. Little 
 Houghton stands high, and com- 
 mands a good view over the Nen 
 valley. The ch., except the tower, 
 has been rebuilt ( Buckeridge , archit.) 
 in early Dec. style, and the arcade 
 is copied, to some extent, from a 
 
16 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Route 2 . — Northampton to Peterborough . 
 
 Dec. arch opening to the tower. 
 This is late E. Eng., with an arcade 
 round the first story above the roof. 
 W. of the ch.-yd. are the moat and 
 foundations of a manor-house, which 
 long remained in the family of Zouch. 
 On the rt. bank of the Nen, in this 
 parish, and close to an ancient ford, 
 is Clifford Hill, a circular mount, 
 surrounded by a deep ditch. Ro- 
 man coins have been found here, 
 and the mount commands a very 
 wide view. Leland describes it as 
 “ a greate round hille as a bullewark 
 of warre, yn the medes by North- 
 ampton town.” The church of Great 
 Houghton was, perhaps, built toward 
 the end of the last century, and is of 
 the worst type; the tower has a 
 spire, supported on an octagonal 
 erection, with pillars.) 
 
 The next station serves for both 
 Earl’s Barton and Castle Ashby. 
 (Both places are of the highest in- 
 terest, and may be comprised in the 
 same day’s excursion if the tourist 
 does not proceed beyond Castle 
 Ashby. A very delightful round, 
 however, may be taken from North- 
 ampton to Yardley Chase, thence 
 proceeding to Yardley Hastings and 
 to Easton Maudit, and visiting Castle 
 Ashby on the homeward route, when 
 the Nen will be crossed at Cogenhoe. 
 This will be a long day’s expedition, 
 and indeed Yardley Chase is alone 
 sufficient, with its venerable oaks, 
 to occupy the artist for some hours. 
 All these places are here described.) 
 
 (a) The celebrated church of Earl’s 
 Barton , on the 1. bank of the Nen, is 
 1J m. from the station. The plea- 
 sant, tree-shadowed road passes an 
 old mill on the river, probably the 
 “ Earl’s mill.” The manor was held 
 by the Earls of Northamptonshire 
 before the Conquest, and afterwards 
 by the Earls of Huntingdon, passing 
 to them through the 2nd marriage 
 of the daughter of Judith and Wal- 
 theof. It now belongs to the Marquis 
 of Northampton. The church, with 
 its remarkable tower, fronts the road 
 
 in approaching, and stands on high 
 ground, which has been partly 
 scarped, and which was probably 
 the “ motte ” or mound of an old Eng- 
 lish “ strong ” house. A deep fosse, 
 still perfect, encloses the mound and 
 ch.-yd. on the N. side. The tower 
 of the ch. is, of course, its most 
 interesting portion. The rest is 
 Norm., Dec., and E. Eng. wrork, all 
 deserving careful attention. The 
 body of the ch. has undergone some 
 restoration at the hands of Mr. 
 Slater. The tower is as yet happily 
 untouched. By common consent it 
 has been termed Saxon, and there can 
 be little doubt but that it was in 
 existence before Simon of Senlis be- 
 came lord of the district. It gives at 
 once the strongest impression of an- 
 tiquity, massive and sombre, built of 
 the rudest rubble ; whilst the angle- 
 quoins of long-and-short work, and 
 the lines and bands of stone carried 
 all over the surfaces, are of the 
 native oolite, full of shells (compare 
 Barnack , Rte. 3, which is of similar 
 character). The rough stonework 
 has been covered with plaster, which 
 is peeling off. In the lowest stage, 
 S., is a balustred window, with a 
 cross at the side ; and the openings 
 for light are cross-shaped. The 
 western door, with its capitals (if 
 they are so to be called), the round 
 arches and triangles of stone along 
 the sides, and the ranges of balus- 
 tred lights in the topmost story 
 (under the battlement, which is a 
 late addition), are all characteristic 
 of this “Romanesque” work, and all 
 occur in other churches older than 
 the Conquest. The stone banding 
 has been regarded as an imitation 
 of wooden construction, or “ stone 
 carpentry;” but, however this may 
 be, the tower is one of those which 
 were built in the lltb centy., as in 
 the 7th, “ juxta Romanorum morem.” 
 Their builders “ followed Roman 
 models, not only by some vague tra- 
 dition, but by a conscious imita- 
 tion of the buildings, whether of the 
 
17 
 
 Northants. Route 2. — Earl's 
 
 Eternal City itself, or of the hardly 
 less renowned cities of Lombardy 
 and Tuscany.” Mr. E. A. Freeman 
 has pointed out that towers like this 
 of Earl’s Barton — tall, square, hard, 
 unbuttressed, with the mid-wall 
 shafts of their windows, and their 
 rude enrichment of square strips and 
 long-and-short work — occur on tbe 
 Continent in groups, as in the heart 
 of the Pyrenees, gathering round the 
 striking minster of St. Aventin, in 
 the Burgundian abbey of St. Maurice, 
 built 1014, and in the great Swabian 
 abbey of Schaifhausen. Towers of 
 the same type occur in every part of 
 Germany, and the banks of the Main 
 and the Alpine pass from Innsbrdek 
 to Trent are set thick with them. 
 “ So close a likeness in such distant 
 spots could hardly be the result of 
 accident : it could hardly be the 
 result of copying from one another. 
 Earl’s Barton and St. Aventin were 
 not likely to seek their models at 
 Schaffhausen, and Schaffhausen was 
 still less likely to seek its models 
 either at Earl’s Barton or at St. 
 Aventin. But all roads lead alike 
 to and from Borne .... The like- 
 ness among the various forms of 
 Romanesque architecture answers to 
 the likeness among the various dia- 
 lects of the Romance speech, and is 
 to be accounted for in the same way 
 . , . . The smaller and ruder ex- 
 amples of Italian towers are identical 
 with those in our own land. There 
 are towers at Verona and at Lincoln 
 which might change places without 
 either seeming to be in a strange 
 land; and if Schaifhausen and St. 
 Maurice seem like glorified forms of 
 our own rude Saxon towers, the great 
 St. Zeno seems like a glorified form 
 of Schaffhausen and St. Maurice.” — 
 E. A. Freeman (‘Fort. Rev.,’ Oct. 
 1872. See also, on the “ Hist, of the 
 Romanesque,” Freeman’s ‘Norm. 
 Conquest,’ vol. v., ch. 26.) 
 
 The body of the ch. is of various 
 dates, Norm., E. Eng , Dec. and Perp. 
 The S. portal is Norm., and recedes 
 
 Barton — Castle Ashby. 
 
 in 3 orders, much enriched, one 
 having the bird’s beak ornament. 
 The nave arcade is Dec., the piers 
 octangular on the S. side; on the 
 N. shafted, and graceful. A pointed 
 arch, with billet-moulding, opens to 
 the tower; the squared piers seem 
 Norm., and have been crushed by 
 the weight above them There is a 
 Perp. clerestory. The aisle windows 
 are all late Dec. A Norman arcade 
 lines the walls of the long and 
 narrow chancel, the arches enriched 
 with zigzag. On the S. side the 
 arcade rises for sedilia in 3 arches, 
 and has been cut through for a 
 window, below. On the N. side a 
 modern vestry has been built with 
 wide arch, open to the chancel, 
 and a fireplace and chimney-piece 
 visible through it. The E. window 
 is a lofty E. Eng. triplet, under a 
 containing arch, with side shafts. 
 Some of the old corbel-heads found 
 in restoring the battlement of the 
 chancel have been used for support- 
 ing the vestry roof. 
 
 It is at once evident that the 
 tower was a strong place of defence. 
 The view from its summit, and from 
 the ch.-yd. below, across the Nen 
 valley, is wide and striking : Castle 
 Ashby is in full sight, as are the 
 churches of Grendon, Easton Maudit, 
 and Bozeat. 
 
 (b) Returning to the station we 
 proceed to Castle Ashby, which lies 
 about 2 m. distant, on the high 
 ground above the rt. bank of the 
 river. Except perhaps that of Rock- 
 ingham Castle, the position of Castle 
 Ashby (Marquis of Northampton) is 
 finer than that of any other great 
 house in the county. Nearly all the 
 Northamptonshire houses stand low. 
 From the terrace in front of Castle 
 Ashby a wide view is commanded 
 over great part of the valley of the 
 Nen, and the opposite heights, more 
 wooded than usual, marked by the 
 towers and spires of many churches, 
 and alive with fleeting lights and 
 the winding river. There is a fore- 
 
18 
 
 Route 2. — Castle Ashby : History. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 ground of park, full of groups of fine 
 trees ; but this home park is less in- 
 teresting than the wilder thickets of 
 Yardley Chase, which is only sepa- 
 rated from it by the line of the 
 Bedford Road. The house of Castle 
 Ashby is not usually shown. The 
 gardens are open on Tuesdays and 
 Thursdays. Yardley Chase is always 
 accessible. 
 
 There was a small castle here, 
 which Leland describes as “ now 
 clene down, and made a septum for 
 beasts,” of which the only remaining 
 vestige is a well, lined with solid 
 masonry, close below the terrace on 
 which stands the present house. 
 This castle represented the manor 
 house, “ crenellated ” by Walter de 
 Langton, Bp. of Coventry and Lich- 
 field, 34th Ed. I., and at that time 
 lord of the manor. The existing 
 house, which now encloses a quad- 
 rangle, was begun by the 1st Lord 
 Compton, in the reign of Elizabeth, 
 and the ' eastern corner, with the 
 towers and much of the interior of 
 the quadrangle, are of this date. 
 The Elizabethan house consisted of 
 a centre and two projecting wings. 
 Inigo Jones added a facade contain- 
 ing a chapel and long gallery — thus 
 forming a fourth side to the court- 
 yard. All this portion remains. 
 Toe whole group of buildings is very 
 picturesque ; and the use of the 
 lettered balustrade, rare in England, 
 adds much to the effect. This is 
 formed by the words “NisiDominus 
 sedificaverit,” &c. (Psalm cxxvii., 
 verses 1, 2) ; and the earlier example 
 has been happily followed in recent 
 works here, as in the balustrade of 
 the garden, and the ornaments of Ihe 
 gates and lodges, the latter bearing 
 the motto “Dominus custodiat in- 
 troitum ” (and nearer the house, 
 ‘ exitum ’) tuum ” (see post). These 
 inscriptions are also on the battle- 
 ment outside and inside the facade 
 of Inigo Jones. (The house is fully 
 described and figured in Campbell’s 
 4 Vitruvius Britannicus ’). 
 
 Castle Ashby lias been in the 
 hands of the present family since 
 the reign of Hen. VIII., when it was 
 bought with other estates, from the 
 3rd Earl of Kent, by Sir William 
 Compton, the representative of an an- 
 cient house long settled at Compton 
 Winyates in Warwickshire. Sir Wil- 
 liam was high in office under King 
 Henry, and commanded the rear- 
 guard at Tournay. His son died 
 under age; but left, by a daughter 
 of the Earl of Shrewsbury, a son 
 named Henry who in the eighth 
 year of Elizabeth became the first 
 Baron Compton. His eldest son and 
 successor was created Earl of North- 
 ampton. The second Earl, Spencer, 
 was a brave and distinguished royal- 
 ist, and fell, surrounded by the 
 enemy, in the battle of Hopton 
 Heath, 1643, a loss, says Clarendon, 
 “for which a greater victory had 
 been an unequal recompense.” His 
 son the third Earl also did good 
 service at this time, especially by the 
 relief of Banbury. Their descendant 
 was created Marquis of Northampton 
 in 1812. The present is the 4th 
 Marquis and 12th Earl. 
 
 There are some interestin g pictures 
 at Castle Ashby. In the great hall 
 (rebuilt, or at least modernised, by 
 Inigo Jones), among other portraits, 
 is a large picture by West , of the 
 8th Earl of Northampton, with his 
 Countess, sou and daughter. This 
 was the earl who took so active a part 
 in the “spendthrift election” as it 
 was called ; that for the borough of 
 Northampton, in 1768. “ Lords Hali- 
 fax, Northampton, and Spencer pitted 
 their candidates against each other, 
 being severally Osborn, Rodney, and 
 Howe. The polling lasted fourteen 
 days, but the canvassing had begun 
 long before ; and although the num- 
 ber of real electors did not exceed 
 930, 1149 votes were given. Horton, 
 Castle Ashby, and Althorp were 
 thrown open to all voters, and when 
 they had drained the cellars of Hor- 
 ton of all the old port, and Lord 
 
Northants. 
 
 19 
 
 Route 2 . — Castle Ashby : Pictures. 
 
 Halifax had to place his claret before 
 them, they declared that they would 
 never vote for a man who gave them 
 sour port, and went over in a body 
 to Castle Ashby. The election was 
 referred to a scrutiny of the House 
 of Commons, which was then a com- 
 mittee of the whole House, and for 
 six weeks during the inquiry sixty 
 covers were daily laid at Spencer 
 House for members, whose names 
 were taken down. It resulted in 
 the numbers being equal, and was 
 finally decided by a toss, Lord 
 Spencer winning, and nominating a 
 man out in India. It is said to have 
 cost Lord Spencer 100,000Z., and each 
 of the other lords 150,000Z. each — 
 incredible sums, if they are to be 
 doubled to express the present value. 
 Lord Northampton cut down his trees 
 and sold his furniture at Compton 
 Winyates, went abroad for the rest 
 of his life, and died in Switzerland. 
 There is a sealed box at Castle 
 Ashby marked 4 Election Papers/ 
 which no one of the present genera- 
 tion has had the courage to open/’ — 
 Bev. Canon James. In the great 
 saloon , called King William 1 s Dining 
 Boom , in honour of William III., who 
 was entertained here in 1695, by the 
 4th Earl, is a fine chimney-piece, 
 dated 1601, and brought from Sir 
 John Spencer’s house at Canonbury. 
 It is of carved wood, with figures 
 of Prudence, Justice, Temperance, 
 Faith, Hope, and Charity. The 
 very fine ceiling, of the same date, 
 was erected it is said by his daughter, 
 wife of the 1st Earl of Northampton. 
 The following are the most important 
 pictures: Spencer Compton, second 
 Earl of Northampton, killed at Hop- 
 ton Heath, Staffordsh., March 19, 
 1643 (see ante), a very fine portrait 
 by Janssen. The first Earl, William, 
 w 7 ho built much of the present house. 
 He received his earldom from Jas. I. 
 in 1618. Henry, Lord Compton, 
 temp. Eliz. (This picture has been 
 engraved in Lodge. He sat as a peer 
 on the trial of Queen Mary of Scot- 
 
 land, and began to build the existing 
 house.) A remarkable and powerful 
 picture said to represent the Duke of 
 Buckingham after his murder by Fel- 
 ton, and assigned to Vandyck. Sir 
 John Talbot. 1st Earl of Shrewsbury, 
 the great soldier who was baffled at 
 the siege of Orleans by Joan of Arc, 
 and who fell with his son in the battle 
 at Chatillon, July 20, 1453, aged 80. 
 This is the Talbot of Shakespeare’s 
 ‘Henry VI/ His body was found 
 on the battle-field by his herald, who 
 had served him forty years, and who, 
 taking off his tabard, flung it over 
 his dead master. There is a replica 
 of this picture in the Heralds’ Col- 
 lege. Margaret Beauchamp, Coun- 
 tess of Salisbury, wife of John Talbot, 
 died 1468. This is a portrait of the 
 same character as the former, stiff 
 and hard, but of the highest interest, 
 since they are among the earliest por- 
 traits in this country. A fine bust of 
 Spencer Perceval, killed in the lobby 
 of the House of Commons by Bel- 
 lingham in 1812, and some superb 
 pieces of modern majolica, should 
 also be noticed. In the dining-room 
 are — Mrs. Drummond Smith, by 
 Bomney ; a curious portrait of Anne, 
 Countess of Dorset and Montgomery, 
 painted in 1603, set. 13 ; Henry 
 Compton, 6th son of the 2nd earl, 
 who became successively Bishop of 
 Oxford and of London, died 1713 ,* 
 and portraits of the present Marquis 
 and of his wife, the late Marchioness 
 of Northampton, by Buckner. Here 
 are also some good cabinet Dutch 
 pictures ; three Gerard Dows and two 
 Ostades. The library contains an 
 early Shakespeare, and a copy of 
 Miles Coverdale’s Bible, 1535, but no 
 other books calling for special notice 
 here. On the entrance to the grand 
 staircase , among other portraits, are 
 a full-length of Bp. Compton, and 
 one of the 3rd Earl, d. 1681 ; and 
 on the wall over the staircase is the 
 1 st Marquis, with his son, by Copley. 
 The tapestries here, illustrative of 
 the Deluge, are by Paul Nievwen- 
 
20 
 
 Route 2 . — Castle Ashby : Gardens ; Church. Sect. I. 
 
 hove. There are many family por- 
 traits in the China Room , and the 
 Dutch Wedding Room is so called 
 from the principal piece of tapestry 
 which hangs on its walls, and repre- 
 sents the festivities of a wedding. 
 At the W. corner of the ground-floor 
 is a panelled room, painted green, 
 with trophies and other ornaments 
 in green and gold. The ceiling, en- 
 graved in Robinson, is good; and 
 over the chimney-piece are the arms 
 of Spencer Lord Northampton, and 
 his wife, with palm branches. 
 Where was once a window, a recess 
 has been formed, with a place of 
 concealment above it. The whole 
 may possibly have been Inigo Jones’s 
 work. There is some very rich and 
 peculiar Italian needlework in the 
 date bedroom , and some fine Italian 
 tapestry in other apartments. In 
 the house is an important collection 
 of Etruscan vases. Among other 
 relics also are preserved here the 
 Clephane horn, of ivory, perhaps of 
 the 11th centy., and very curious, 
 and the iron hand and arm made by 
 some ingenious “armourer” to sup- 
 ply the loss sustained by a knight of 
 the Clephanes in the battle of Largs, 
 1263. These relics came to Castle 
 Ashby by the marriage of the second 
 marquis with the eldest daughter of 
 Major-General Douglas Maclean 
 Clephane. (The iron hand has been 
 more than once referred to and de- 
 scribed by Sir Walter Scott, whose 
 friendship with the house of Maclean 
 Clephane is commemorated in Lock- 
 hart’s Life). 
 
 The new flower garden , on the S. 
 side of the house, is of very great 
 beauty, and is one of the best ex- 
 amples of “ bedding out,” the design 
 being not geometrical, but flowing. 
 Looking down on it, when the beds 
 are in full blaze of colour, the etfect 
 resembles that of the richest stained 
 glass. There are some excellent 
 vases and balustr rides of terra-cotta, 
 from the works of Blashfield at Stam- 
 ford — the colour especially good. 
 
 The balustrades form inscriptions, 
 one referring to the late Marchioness 
 of Northampton, another with the 
 words “Consider the lilies of the 
 field.” The wall of the kitchen gar- 
 den, rising at intervals into a sort of 
 crow step, and thus breaking the 
 regularity, has been designed by 
 Godwin ; and here is a large and 
 striking conservatory, with much 
 architectural character, built from 
 the combined design of Sir Digby 
 Wyatt and the present Marquis. 
 The Pinetum , with some very fine 
 specimens, is (1875) of about thirty 
 years’ growth. There are in the 
 grounds some very large cedars, one 
 of which, planted in 1760, has been 
 much shattered, but is still a most 
 picturesque tree. 
 
 Very near the house is the small 
 but very interesting Church of Castle 
 Ashby, with a Norm, door on the N. 
 side (figured in the 4 Glossary ’), a 
 Dec. N. aisle, and a Perp. nave, S. 
 aisle, and chancel. The whole has 
 been restored by Street , who placed 
 new roofs throughout. The pulpit, 
 a very good design, is supposed to 
 be by Inigo Jones. At the W. end 
 of the nave is placed an “Angel of 
 the Resurrection, ” by Tenerani , with 
 trumpet ,* below is the inscription, 
 “ Marmoris hoc sculpti eloquens si- 
 lentium spe futuri Patri Carissimo 
 dicavit Alius N. d. 1851.” It thus 
 forms a memorial of the 2nd Mar- 
 quis. Under an arch in the N. 
 aisle is a monument designed by 
 Marochetti for the wife of the Hon. 
 F. L. Gower, 2nd daughter of the 
 2nd Marquis, a very graceful figure 
 in rest. In a wall-recess above, 
 well designed by a pupil of Scott, 
 is placed a sculptured angel. The 
 monument of Lady Northampton, 
 d. 1830, is by Tenerani; that of Lord 
 Northampton (1st Marquis), d. 1828, 
 is by Blore. The ch. also contains 
 some modern stained glass, a cross- 
 legged effigy in chain-mail, which 
 may perhaps be that of David de 
 Esseby (Ashby), living in 1265, and 
 
Northants. 
 
 Route 2 . — Castle Ashby — Yardley Chase. 21 
 
 the large brass of a rector, William 
 de Ermine, d. 1401, in a cope, with 
 figures of saints. There is a very 
 fine yew in the ch.-yard, which is 
 much overshadowed by trees. The 
 monuments of Wilhelm von Nor- 
 mann, “ born at Castle Ashby, 1830, 
 died in the hands of the Chinese, 
 I860;” of Alexander Sanders, hus- 
 band of Ann Draper, d. 1818, queen 
 of the gipsies ; and some beautiful 
 ironwork round a tomb under the 
 yew-tree, said to be that of the wife 
 of a blacksmith, by whom the iron 
 was wrought — should all be noticed. 
 
 Very fine gates of Italian iron- 
 work, brought from Padua and set 
 in piers of terra-cotta, richly deco- 
 rated with the monogram, arms, 
 and motto of Lord Northampton, 
 by Wyatt, open from the lawn 
 adjoining the house to an avenue, 
 which, extending about 1 m. to 
 the entrance from the Bedford Road, 
 has been continued by the pre- 
 sent Marquis in a direct line for 
 2 m. farther, into the heart of Yardley 
 Chase. This is a very extensive 
 level tract of woodland, full of green 
 “ridings” (as the turf roads are 
 called), open law T ns, and wood of 
 various ages, some of the chief roads 
 having been planted all along the 
 borders with spruce and Scotch fir. 
 The visitor to the Chase should 
 make eventually (however wide a 
 circuit in the wood he may first 
 choose to traverse) for the group of 
 venerable oaks, among which is the 
 tree known as “ Cow T per’s.” (It is 
 best to inquire at the lodge on the 
 Bedford Road for the proper way to 
 these oaks, which is not to be found 
 very readily.) The Chase itself, a 
 surviving relic of those many tracts 
 of forest which once abounded in 
 Northamptonshire, affords pleasant 
 wandering through the paths and 
 alleys of the jay-haunted wood. The 
 most ancient and noticeable oak- 
 trees are near a farm on the S.E. 
 outskirt, and a short drive through 
 fields leads thence into the high 
 
 road very near the village of Yardley 
 Hastings. There are 3 of these oaks 
 in an open lawn, fringed by younger 
 growth ; the largest and most shat- 
 tered is that called “ Cowper’s,” and 
 to it is attached the following notice : 
 “ Out of respect to the memory of 
 the poet Cowper, the Marquis of 
 Northampton is particularly desirous 
 of preserving this oak. Notice is 
 hereby given that any persons de- 
 facing or otherwise injuring it will 
 be prosecuted according to law.” 
 The tree is a most picturesque ruin, 
 wonderfully suggestive of great age. 
 From the hollow trunk (about 30 ft. 
 in circumference at a yard from the 
 ground), in which many persons 
 may stand at once, rise 2 or 3 bare 
 limbs, and as many more bearing 
 fresh green leaves. It is not lofty, 
 and the whitened inner w r ood con- 
 trasts sharply with the lichens and 
 knots of the portion that preserves 
 its bark. This is the tree (at least 
 it has always been so regarded) 
 on which Cowper moralises in his 
 unfinished poem of the ‘Yardley 
 Oak/ found among his papers, and 
 not published until after his death. 
 (The oak, it may be remarked, is 
 not more than 3 m. distant from 
 Olney and Weston Underwood, and 
 the greater part of the walk, which 
 the poet may often have taken, 
 might lie through a portion of the 
 Chase.) He is not quite accurate 
 when he describes it as — 
 
 “ Survivor sole, and hardly such, of all 
 That once lived here, thy brethren, at thy 
 birth,” 
 
 for it still has a brace of companions, 
 and there are others near at hand ; 
 but the whole expression of the tree 
 has been transferred to the poet’s 
 verses ; — 
 
 “ Thou wast a bauble once ; a cup and ball 
 Which babes might play with; and the 
 thievish jay, 
 
 Seeking her food, with ease might have 
 purloined 
 
 The auburn nut that held thee, swallowing 
 down 
 
 Thy yet close-folded latitude of boughs 
 And all thy embryo vastness at a gulp.” 
 
22 
 
 Route 2 . — Northampton to Peterborough. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 In passing from this group of oaks 
 toward Yardley Hastings, two very 
 large oak-trees, known as “ Gog and 
 Magog,” are seen 1. near a farm. 
 They are much shattered, but well 
 deserve the artist s attention. Tins 
 whole neighbourhood is indeed forest 
 ground, and the distant views are 
 all woodland. 
 
 Yardley Hastings , on the h'gh 
 road from Northampton to Bedford, 
 is a large, scattered village, extend- 
 ing over bioken ground and inter- 
 spersed with trees. (At the Bose 
 and Crown , a hostelry which recalls 
 some of Dickens’s descriptions, simple 
 accommodation may be had by the 
 artist who cares to study among the 
 woods of this district, which he will 
 find full of good subjects.) The 
 church and the remains of the manor- 
 house here should be visited. Yardley 
 belonged to the Earls of Northamp- 
 ton before the Conquest, and passed 
 with the earldom of Huntingdon 
 which the daughter of Waltheof 
 and Judith carried by her second 
 marriage to David, brother of King 
 Alexander of Scotland. It came at 
 last to Ada, daughter of David, Earl 
 of Huntingdon, who died 1219. She 
 married Henry of Hastings, and 
 Yardley continued in this great 
 house (which gave its name to the 
 manor) — Lords of Bergavenny and 
 Earls of Pembroke — till it passed by 
 marriage with an heiress to Beginald 
 deGrey of Rutlien, whose descendant, 
 Richard, Earl of Kent, sold it to Sir 
 William Compton, ancestor of the 
 Marquis of Northampton, the present 
 possessor. The Church , dedicated to 
 St. Andrew (perhaps an indication 
 of the old Scottish connection, though 
 2 parts of the tithes belonged to 
 the priory of St. Andrew, in North- 
 ampton), is for the most part Dec. 
 of more than one period, except the 
 massive tower, which is, perhaps, 
 Norman. The main arcade is Early 
 Dec., as is the clerestory. All the 
 nave windows are square-headed 
 Dec., and an internal string-course 
 
 runs along at their base. Remark a 
 fine bracket with oak-leaves at the 
 end of the S. aisle. The chancel 
 has late Dec. windows (E. and 
 2 S.), and rich, shattered sedilia of 
 the same period. In the N. wall, 
 however, are traces of round-headed 
 lights, and it is therefore evident 
 that the original Norm, wall is here 
 retained. There are Norm, lights 
 in the belfry-story of the tower, 
 and on the 8. front a small round- 
 headed window opens close at the 
 side of the larger. The W. end of 
 the N. aisle is walled off, and serves 
 as a schoolroom and vestry. In the 
 chancel is a memorial for John 
 Wilson, rector from 1649 to 1695, 
 and one of greater interest, for the 
 antiquary and Saxon scholar, Ed- 
 ward Lye, 30 years rector, “vir 
 summa) scientise . . . praesertim in 
 linguis et antiquitatibus Septen- 
 trionalibus” He was born at Totnes, 
 in Devonshire, in 1694, and died in 
 1767, set. 73. His great work, the 
 ‘Anglo-Saxon and Gothic Diction- 
 ary/ was compiled here at Yardley, 
 but was not published until after his 
 death. “ All the Club subscribes,” 
 wrote Johnson to Bennet Langton 
 in 1766. 
 
 The church was, no doubt, the 
 work of the Lords Hastings, and 
 adjoining it, on the N. side, is the 
 so-called “ Castle,” a manor-house, 
 which must have been of consider- 
 able size and importance. What 
 now remains is a squared building, 
 with portions of arches at either 
 end. On the N. side are 2 good 
 Dec. arches, opening to vaults (?), 
 and on the 8. a Dec. window, square - 
 headed, like those in the ch. What 
 we now see is, therefore, a mere 
 fragment, and it is difficult to 
 infer from it what was the general 
 plan. Church and manor-house seem 
 to have been rebuilt about the same 
 time. The situation, with the great 
 Chase spreading round, must have 
 been pleasant enough. 
 
 A cross-road from Yardley brings 
 
Northants. 
 
 Boute 2 . — Easton MaudiL 
 
 23 
 
 us in a drive of about 2 m. to Easton 
 Maurfit, where is a very interesting 
 church, well restored, and not to 
 be neglected by the antiquary, for 
 whom this place should have an 
 especial attraction, since for many 
 years (he was appointed in 1753, and 
 did not resign the living until 1782) 
 the vicarage was the home of Dr. 
 Percy, afterwards Bishop of Dromore, 
 editor of the famous 4 B cliques of 
 Ancient Poetry/ the ballad-book 
 which was given to the world in 1765, 
 from Easton Maud it. Shenstone and 
 Garrick were frequent guests here ; 
 Johnson, Goldsmith, and others of 
 that well-known society more than 
 once visited Percy here ; and al- 
 though the vicarage has undergone 
 some alteration, it has not been so 
 completely remodelled as to have 
 lost all memorial of that period. 
 (The portrait of Bp. Percy, by Abbot , 
 and his correspondence are still pre- 
 served at Ecton, near Northampton, 
 by the descendant of the bishop’s 
 daughter. The veritable MS. folio 
 from which the 4 Beliques ’ were 
 taken was also long preserved at 
 Ecton ; but after the edition of 
 Furnival and Hales had been 
 printed verbatim from it, it was 
 placed in the Library of the British 
 Museum.) At that time there was a 
 large manor-house not far from the 
 church, of which there are now no 
 traces. It belonged to the Longue- 
 ville Earls of Sussex, and was full 
 of interesting portraits. There was 
 also a large and important library, 
 containing many early printed books 
 and MSS., collected partly by Sir 
 Henry Yelverton in the reign of 
 James I., aud partly by another 
 H. Yelverton, the 1st Lord Longue- 
 ville. Christopher Yelverton bought 
 the manor temp. Eliz. He was a 
 Judge of the Queen’s Bench and 
 Speaker of the House of Commons, 
 representing Northamptonshire in 
 Parliament. His son, Sir Henry, was 
 patronised by Car, Earl of Somerset, 
 and by the Duke of Buckingham, 
 
 was a distinguished lawyer, and be- 
 came a judge in 1625. His grand- 
 son, another Sir H., married Susanna 
 Longueville, daughter and heiress of 
 Lord Grey of Buthen (see Bedford-, 
 shire , Bte. 7, Blunham). Their 
 eldest son died without issue ; the 
 second was created Viscount Longue- 
 ville by William III., and his eldest 
 son, in 1717, became Earl of Sussex. 
 The name u Mauduit 3 ' commemo- 
 rates earlier lords of the manor; the 
 first of these was William Mauduit, 
 Chamberlain of Henry I. 
 
 The Church contains memorials of 
 Yelvertons and their descendants. 
 It is for the most part Early Dec., 
 with a W. tower and fine spire, con- 
 nected by flying buttresses, pierced 
 with quatrefoils. The main arcade 
 is very graceful, preserving much of 
 E. Eng. character in the undercut 
 caps. The open tower-arch is some- 
 what later. The chancel is Early Dec. 
 and has been restored at much cost, 
 with a sculptured reredos and rich 
 marble altar-rail. The tiling through- 
 out the ch. calls for special notice, 
 and is unusually successful in har- 
 mony and design. The ground tiles 
 are dark-green, and in them are set 
 others of various characters, many 
 marked by a beacon, and the words 
 “Nisi Dominus custodiat,” the crest 
 and motto of the noble house of 
 Northampton (the arrangement of 
 the tiles is due to the Bev. Lord 
 Alwyn Compton, who has made the 
 subject his own). Before the chancel- 
 steps is a cross inlaid in the tiling, 
 with inscriptions (preserving the re- 
 cord in the unrestored church) for 
 3 children of Thos. Percy, D.D., who 
 died between 1770 and 1774. The 
 modern pulpit has very good panels, 
 carved with fruit and flowers. At 
 the end of the N. aisle is the Yel- 
 verton Chapel. In the centre is 
 the monument, with effigies, of Sir 
 Christopher Yelverton, Elizabeth’s 
 Judue and Speaker (see ante ), d. 
 1612, and of his wife, Mary Catesby, 
 d. 1611. He wears the red judge’s 
 
24 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Boute 2 . — Northampton to Peterborough . 
 
 rr.be ; she has a remarkable head- 
 dress. At the side is the monument 
 of his son, Sir Henry, d. 1629, with 
 effigies of himself and his wife, 
 Margaret Beale, d. 1625. Two ve- 
 nerable bedesmen, in black gowns 
 and white beards, support the ela- 
 borate canopy, and an inscription 
 records the many virtues of Sir 
 Henry Yelverton, his u sweetnes of 
 conversation, faithfulnes in friend- 
 ship, and comelines of person.” 
 There are slabs for Longuevilles, 
 and some tattered banners and 
 an achievement for Lord Grey of 
 Ruthen, who died at Oxford in 1643. 
 Theirs is the motto. “ Foy en tout,” 
 which appears on the escutcheons. 
 Not less interesting is a memorial 
 for Thomas Morton, Bishop of Dur- 
 ham, driven from his see by the 
 calamities of the Civil War. A refuge 
 was afforded to him by more than 
 one family, and he finally removed 
 to the house of Sir Henry Yelverton, 
 where he died, in 1659, in the 95th 
 year of his age, the 44th of his epis- 
 copate. He had been successively 
 bishop of Chester and of Lichfield 
 before his translation to Durham in 
 1632. The inscription on the slab 
 was written by Dr. Barwick, who 
 wrote also a short life of the bishop 
 and preached his funeral sermon. 
 Many of Bp. Morton’s MSS. were 
 preserved in the Sussex Library 
 here. 
 
 [The Church of Bozeat , 1} m. E. 
 of Easton Maudit, on the Welling- 
 borough Road, has an E. Eng. tower, 
 with octagonal broach spire. The 
 body of the ch. is Dec., with Perp. 
 insertions, and a Dec. rood-screen 
 remains] 
 
 Returning to the station at Earl’s 
 Barton, the church and village of 
 Grendon are passed. The former is 
 mainly Perp., but has two Norm, 
 arches, and some E. Eng. and Dec. 
 portions ; the tower is massive and 
 lofty. There is a brass , with figures 
 
 of an unknown lady between two 
 husbands, circ. 1480; and another 
 for John Mortimer, early in the 
 same century. Grendon Hall, now 
 a farm-house, belonged to the Comp- 
 tons, and is ancient. Grendon is 
 one of the villages on high ground, 
 overlooking the Nen valley. 
 
 The rly. proceeds on the rt. bank 
 of the river to 
 
 Wellingborough Stat. Here the 
 Midland line of rly. from Cambridge 
 to Kettering and Market Harbo- 
 rough crosses the rly., whose course 
 we are following. (For this rly. 
 from this place to Market Har- 
 borough, see Rte. 12. There is a 
 Midland Stat . at Wellingborough.) 
 The Wellingborough Stat. is also 
 known as that for “Irchester Road;” 
 but there is a Midland stat. 2 5 m. 
 E. at Irchester itself. (For Irchester, 
 where the Roman station and the 
 church are the places of interest, see 
 post.) 
 
 (Close to the rly. are the Irtliling - 
 borough Iron- Works and the j East 
 End Iron- Works ; and the quarries 
 from which the ore is supplied are 
 near at hand, adjoining the Midland 
 Rly., and extending for some miles 
 in an easterly direction. There can 
 be no doubt but that the ironstone 
 of this county was smelted by the 
 Romans, and continued to be worked 
 until at least the reign of Henry III. 
 But it had quite passed out of use, 
 and there seems to have been little 
 or no knowledge of its existence 
 here until about the year 1840, when, 
 as it is said, a Birmingham traveller 
 saw blocks of it brought to mend 
 the roads near one of the stations. 
 The quarrying and smelting of the 
 ore are rapidly changing the face 
 of great part of Northamptonshire, 
 which, until this re-discovery, had 
 been almost entirely an agricultural 
 county. Its wealth is as rapidly in- 
 creasing. The beauty of its prospects 
 is not improved. The ore occurs in 
 
Korthants, 
 
 Route 2 . — Wellingborough. 
 
 25 
 
 the Northampton sands of the lias, ir- 
 regularly distributed over the county, 
 but forming portions of the same 
 beds which extend across England 
 from the Severn to the Tees (see 
 Introd., Geology). The Irthling- 
 borough Works were erected in 1867 
 by W. Butlin, C.E., who smelted the 
 first piece of Northamptonshire iron- 
 ore. The East End Iron- Works date 
 from 1852, in the year before which 
 this first piece of iron had been 
 produced at Mr. Butlin ’s works in 
 Northampton. “ The ore, which is 
 an hydrate , produces on an average 
 40 per cent, of iron in the blast- 
 furnace ; its matrix is chiefly silex. 
 It is easily raised, being close to the 
 surface. Between 500 and 600 men 
 are employed in the works. More 
 than 5000 tons of ore are raised 
 weekly; 4000 tons are sent into 
 Derbyshire and Yorkshire, and the 
 remainder is used for the furnaces. 
 About 450 tons of pig-iron are pro- 
 duced weekly in both works. The 
 iron-ore, in fact, is of the same 
 general character as that quarried 
 in Cleveland, and smelted in the 
 Middlesborough furnaces.”) 
 
 Wellingborough ( Inn : the Hind. 
 Pop. in 1871, 9385) is about 1 m. 
 W. of the station, on. the hill-slope 
 above the river. The approach from 
 the station is bordered by lime-trees, 
 and is striking. 'Wellingborough 
 occurs in Domesday as “ Wendles- 
 berie ” and “ Wediingsberie ,” and 
 the name is frequently written 
 “ Wendlyngburg.” This has some- 
 times led to a confusion with Wen- 
 dlebury, in Oxfordshire. It seems, 
 therefore, improbable that the chaly- 
 beate spring called the “ Red Well,” 
 ! m. N.W., can have given name to 
 the town. There is a tradition that 
 Charles I. and Queen Henrietta 
 spent some time in tents erected on 
 the hill-side, for the sake of drinking 
 this water. It is certain, from his 
 journal, that Abp. Laud, in 1626, 
 waited on Queen Henrietta at Well- 
 
 [. Northants , (fee.] 
 
 ingborough, but this was at the inn, 
 now pulled down, called the White 
 Swan , in the Market-place. It does 
 not appear whether it was the 
 White Swan or the Hind which so 
 grievously tried the nerves and the 
 temper of Horace Walpole. “We 
 lay,” he writes in 1763, “ at Welling- 
 borough— pray never lie there — the 
 beastliest inn upon earth is there ! 
 We were carried into a vast bed- 
 chamber, which I suppose is the 
 club-room, for it stunk of tobacco 
 like a justice of the peace ! I de- 
 sired some boiling water for tea ; they 
 brought me a sugar- dish of hot water 
 in a pewter plate.” Wellingborough 
 is a large market-town, entirely with- 
 out interest but for its ch., and not 
 too agreeable. Shoemakers abound, 
 and the older trades of woollen and 
 lace making have been entirely aban- 
 doned for what has become one of the 
 staple businesses of Northampton- 
 shire. The Church , Dec., with some 
 Perp. alterations, is large and impos- 
 ing, and has been restored through- 
 out. It belonged to the abbey of 
 Crowland from a period long be- 
 fore the Conquest, and so continued 
 until the Dissolution. The tower 
 and spire may, perhaps, be late E. 
 Eng., as seems indicated by the W. 
 doorway. There is a graceful corbel- 
 table round the top of the tower, in 
 the lower walls of which oolite is 
 banded with the local ironstone. 
 The upper part is entirely of oolite. 
 The ch. itself is built throughout 
 of ironstone. The nave, of 4 bays, 
 is Dec. ; the chancel (also of 4 bays) 
 Perp. (except the E. window), and 
 the greater part of the windows have 
 been altered in that period. The 
 chancel projects a single bay beyond 
 the wide aisles. (By an arbitration 
 in the 7th year of Richard II., it 
 was determined that the abbot and 
 convent of Crowland were thence- 
 forth to repair the chancel at their 
 own costs, so that the Perp. rebuild- 
 ing is, no doubt, due to them.) The 
 | stone brackets for carrying the ori- 
 c 
 
26 
 
 Route 2 . — Northampton to Peterborough. Sect. I. 
 
 ginal roof of the chancel remain, 
 and in the angles of the E. window 
 (geometrical Dec.) are the winged 
 lion and angel, the symbols of the 
 other two Evangelists having disap- 
 peared. The pictorial stained glass 
 in this window commemorates a 30 
 years’ ministry of Canon Broughton 
 as vicar.” It is by Taylor of London, 
 — date, 1871 — and is not pleasant. 
 Some good old screen-work divides 
 the choir-aisles from the chancel. 
 The walls of the restored nave have 
 been left rough, in w r hat Horace 
 Walpole calls “ their native stone- 
 hood” — a questionable proceeding; 
 but the low seats, and the general 
 effect of colour throughout the ch., 
 are good. There is a small project- 
 ing chapel E. of the S. door, Perp., 
 with a panelled ceiling, carved with 
 the emblems of Our Lord’s Passion. 
 Over the S. door is the monument of 
 “ Sergeant Lin gar,” “ Sergeant of 
 the Bakehouse to Queen Elizabeth,” 
 d. 1570. The exterior of the very 
 graceful E. window deserves special 
 notice. It has a hollow moulding, 
 with grotesque heads, flowers, and 
 foliage. Above is a canopied niche. 
 At the dripstones of the arch are the 
 angel and eagle ; below, at the base, 
 the bull and lion, all winged. The 
 tracery is geometrical, and the date 
 of the window about 1300. The 
 communion-plate was given in 1634 
 by Sir Paul Pindar, born in Welling- 
 borough, consul and ambassador in 
 Turkey, who contributed very large 
 sums to the restoration and adorn- 
 ment of Old St. Paul’s, which had 
 been nearly destroyed by fire during 
 the reign of Elizabeth. 
 
 N.W. of the ch. is the Free School , 
 founded temp. Edward YI. on the 
 suppiession of a guild of the Virgin. 
 Edward Pickering, of Swasey, in 
 Cambridgeshire, gave, as is recorded 
 on a tablet over the door, 130Z. to 
 the school. On a tablet below are 
 the words u <Pl\o fj.ct.de <r i multum debeo, 
 1619. Barbaris autem nihil.” A 
 schoolmaster was elected in 1687 
 
 who professed himself a Dissenter, 
 and obtained a dispensation from 
 King James to hold the school with- 
 out qualifying according to law. He 
 disappeared after the king’s flight, 
 and it was afterwards discovered that 
 he was a Jesuit from St. Omer’s. 
 
 [The churches of Irchester , Dod- 
 ington , and Strixton , may best be 
 visited from Wellingborough. 
 
 Irchester is best visited from the 
 station on the Midland rly., 2J m. 
 E. of Wellingborough. 1. of this 
 stat. is the ch. About J m. below 
 the stat. is the site of the Roman 
 encampment. ( Ask for “ Chester 
 
 House.”) The ancient name of the 
 “Chester” has been completely lost, 
 and there is no apparent clue to it 
 in the Itineraries. The camp is 
 square, containing about 9 acres. It 
 was walled originally ; and on the 
 N. side, towards the river Nen, a 
 road runs along the top of the 
 foundation of the wall. This side is 
 very steep. The area of the castrum 
 when ploughed is found to be full 
 of pieces of pottery, many of Castor 
 ware; and coins of the lower Em- 
 pire are found in numbers. The 
 most remarkable discovery here, 
 however, is an inscription on a slab 
 “D.M.S. Amicius. Saturn, strator 
 Cos. M.S.F.” This is preserved in 
 Chester House. The word “ strator ” 
 found in several inscriptions signi- 
 fies the attendant who helped the 
 Emperor to mount his horse. 
 
 The Church of Irchester is dis- 
 tinguished by one of the best of 
 those spires for which the county is 
 so famous. It is late Dec., and “ its 
 great height, the very small size of 
 the squinches connecting it with 
 the square tower, and the slight pro- 
 jection of the spire-lights all com- 
 bine to render it one of the most 
 elegant and aspiring of its class.”— 
 E. A. F. The tracery of the spire- 
 lights is flowing Dec. Remark the 
 rich cornice under the spire, and. 
 
Northants. 
 
 Route 2 . — Higliam Ferrers. 
 
 27 
 
 the local feature of the use of dif- 
 ferent coloured courses of stone in 
 the tower. The rest of the cli. is 
 ordinary, — neither very good nor very 
 bad. The E. Eng. priests’ door de- 
 serves notice. The chancel (E. Eng.) 
 has a graceful piscina and a single 
 sedile. The nave arches are Dec. 
 The font, E. Eng. Some Norm, 
 fragments show that a ch. of that 
 date existed here before the present 
 one. 
 
 Dodington is 2 m. S. Strixton 
 is 4 m. on the road to Newport 
 Pagnell. Dodington (restored 1871) 
 has an E. Eng. tower, but is other- 
 wise without much interest. A 
 wall-painting of the Crucifixion 
 was found on the S. side of the 
 chancel during the restoration. 
 Strixton is thoroughly E. Eng. ; and, 
 although small (it has only nave 
 and chancel), is an excellent archi- 
 tectural model. The E. end has 
 triple lancets, with quatrefoils above 
 them, one of which is pierced for 
 light. All the other details are 
 plain and simple. A sexfoil window 
 above the W. door should especially 
 be noticed. The proportions are 
 excellent; and the restoration of 
 1874 cannot altogether destroy the 
 primitive character of the building.] 
 
 Leaving Wellingborough, a small 
 station is passed at Ditchford Bridge , 
 where the trains stop by signal only. 
 The next is 
 
 Higliam Ferrers Stat ., from which 
 the tourist may visit the churches of 
 H. Ferrers and Rusliden, rt., and 
 that of Irthlingborough, 1. The spire 
 of Higham Ch. is seen, on the high 
 ground rt. of the station, from which 
 the village is J m. distant. The 
 ridge on the rt. bank of the river is 
 here lofty, and “ Higham ” is rightly 
 named. Immediately 1. of the station 
 is Higliam Bridge , a very fine 13th- 
 centy. (?) structure, with ribbed 
 arches. Remark the deep projecting 
 buttresses. The bridge has been 
 
 widened on one side; and modern 
 brick arches have been inserted 
 above the old ones. A ladder leads 
 from the bridge to the meadows 
 below, and the tourist should de- 
 scend it. On one of the buttresses, 
 S., are the arms of Peterborough. 
 The river abounds with jack and 
 bream. {Staunch is the local name 
 for a sort of flood-gate which may 
 be seen on different parts of the Nen. 
 It is used for drifting boats, &c., 
 over shallow parts of the river. 
 When dropped, it of course raises 
 the water above it.) Irthlingborough 
 Church is about Jm. beyond Higham 
 Bridge* and is in sight. (See postr) 
 Higham Mill , large and substan- 
 tial, lies on a cut from the Nen, 
 rt., as the hill is ascended toward 
 Higham Ferrers. Here the interest 
 is gathered round the remarkable 
 group of buildings which Arch- 
 bishop Chicheley raised in honour 
 of his birthplace, and in gratitude 
 for his own great fortunes. The 
 church, the college, the cross, tlie 
 school, and the bede-house all speak 
 of him ; and although it was the 
 usual custom for a great prelate to 
 remember in some such manner the 
 place where he was born, there are 
 few examples of so complete an 
 offering. Higham (there is a rough 
 country Inn , the Green Dragon) is a 
 small, faded borough, incorporated 
 under Philip and Mary, though it 
 had a mayor and other officers long 
 before. Until the first Reform Bill 
 it sent one member to Parliament, 
 the right of election being “ in all 
 the housekeepers who received no 
 alms.” The manor was William 
 Peverel’s at the Domesday Survey, 
 and passed from that family by in- 
 heritance in the first year of King 
 John to William Ferrers, Earl of 
 Derby, whose son and grandson held 
 it, and gave'their name to the place. 
 On the attainder of Robert Ferrers 
 in the 50th year of Henry III., this 
 lordship was granted to the king s 
 younger son, Edmund, E. of Lan- 
 
28 
 
 Boute 2 . — Rigliam Ferrers : the Church. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 caster, and titular King of Sicily. 
 His son, the great Earl Thomas of 
 Lancaster, was beheaded at Ponte- 
 fract in 1312; and the escheated 
 manor and castle of Higham were 
 given to Aymer de Valence, E. of 
 Pembroke, but returned to Henry 
 of Lancaster, younger brother of the 
 beheaded earl, on the reversal of 
 the latter’s attainder. The son of 
 this Earl Henry possessed Higham, 
 but died, leaving two daughters 
 only, one of whom married John of 
 Gaunt, to whose share of the vast 
 inheritance Higham Ferrers fell. 
 Thus it came to the crown in the 
 person of Henry IV. ; and the lord- 
 ship, with the castle and hundred, 
 were settled, iu the 5th year of 
 Henry V.,on the Archbishop of Can- 
 terbury, the Bishop of Durham, and 
 some others. In this manner Arch- 
 bishop Chicheley became in part lord 
 of his native place, and was enabled 
 to benefit and adorn it by his build- 
 ing. His parents had been persons 
 of no great estate ; and it is said 
 that the future archbishop was found 
 by William of Wykeham, in a field 
 by the church, like Giotto by Cim- 
 abue, tending his father’s flock. 
 Wykeham educated him in his own 
 colleges at Winchester and Ox- 
 ford ; and Chicheley, the founder 
 himself of so many noble institutions 
 at Oxford and elsewhere, lived to do 
 honour to his patron’s discrimina- 
 tion. 
 
 The Castle stood N. of the church, 
 and was probably built by the Fer- 
 rers Earls. Of it there are no 
 remains whatever, unless it be a 
 portion of the moat. 
 
 The Church is one of the finest in 
 the county, and of especial interest 
 from its associations. The great 
 tower and spire rise grandly as the 
 churchyard is entered. On the N. 
 side, a little in advance of the tower, 
 is the school-house; nearly opposite 
 are the remains of a Dec. cross, 
 raised on steps : and on the S. side 
 of the churchyard is the Bede-house, 
 
 or hospital. The original vicarage- 
 house stands near the Bede-house, 
 W., and completes this group of 
 buildings. The College stands in 
 the main street of the town, at some 
 distance N.W. of the church. The 
 church, of which the ground-plan 
 is somewhat unusual, consists at 
 present of a nave and chancel, with 
 S. aisle ; of what may be termed a 
 second nave and chancel, N. of the 
 former ; and of an additional N. 
 aisle. The two chancels terminate 
 in the same line. There are of 
 course three ranges of piers, and the 
 two naves are of equal width. The 
 whole interior is fine and lofty, and 
 the great width of the church does 
 not appear out of proportion. The 
 chief points to be noticed are — the 
 superb W. portal of the tower; the 
 Dec. windows; the stall work in 
 the chancel; and the brasses. The 
 building is E. Eng. and Dec., with 
 some few Perp. additions. 
 
 The church, as an examination 
 shows at once, consisted at first of 
 an E. Eng. nave, chancel, and aisles, 
 with a W. tower. In the earlier 
 Dec. period, about 1290, the N. aisle 
 was altered and widened, so as to 
 form what may now be called the 
 second |nave ; and a Lady Chapel, 
 forming a second chancel, was car- 
 ried out to the eastern line of the 
 true chancel, and was made of the 
 same dimensions. At the same time 
 the E. Eng. wall of the chancel was 
 pierced with Dec. arches, opening 
 into the Lady Chapel. An additional 
 N. aisle was added somewhat later ; 
 the spire was built, new windows 
 made nearly throughout the church, 
 and the chancel especially trans- 
 formed into Dec. These later changes 
 were effected a.bout 1340. The re- 
 storation of the whole building, 
 which has been carried out since 
 1860, is good ; and there has cer- 
 tainly been no unnecessary destruc- 
 tion. The cleaning has brought out 
 the use of variously coloured stones 
 in piers and arches, irregularly dis- 
 
Northants. Route 2. — Higham Ferrers : the Church , 
 
 29 
 
 posed, and not in those formal bands 
 which are never agreeable. 
 
 The Tower and Spire became 
 ruinous, and fell, in great part, in 
 the first half of the 17th centy. They 
 were rebuilt, Archbp. Laud contri- 
 buting to the cost ; but happily the 
 work was done in rigid imitation 
 of the original, and the greater part 
 of the old material was used up 
 again. Inscriptions on the exterior 
 record that the “ steeple was begun 
 to be builded, April 20th, 1631,” and 
 was finished in 1632, “Richard At- 
 kins of Northamp. the workman.” 
 The lower part of the tower, with 
 the W. portal, does not seem to have 
 suffered from the fall. The portal, 
 like the rest of the tower, is E. Eng., 
 but of rather foreign than English 
 character. Like the W. portals of 
 Raunds and of Rushden, it is set in 
 a sort of shallow porch, but differs 
 from them in having a double en- 
 trance divided by a shaft or pier, 
 while the whole upper part, above 
 the capitals of the great enclosing 
 arch, is a massive closed tympanum. 
 The heads of the doorways are 
 formed by low segmental arches, 
 having jambs and architraves richly 
 moulded with foliage and small 
 figures. The central shaft, of which 
 the foliaged termination is unusual, 
 carries a squared base for a figure. 
 The tympanum is filled with circles 
 containing sculpture, with diaper 
 work between them. The subjects 
 are (N. side), the Salutation of Mary 
 and Elizabeth ; the Angel appearing 
 to Zacharias ; the Wise Men’s Offer- 
 ing ; Our Lord in the Temple ; His 
 Baptism ; and (S. side) the Angels 
 appearing to the Shepherds ; the 
 Crucifixion; the Annunciation; the 
 Disciples at the Sepulchre (which 
 is shown as a coffin resting on an 
 E. Eng. trefoiled arcade, through 
 which are seen the soldiers, as in an 
 Easter sepulchre), and the Descent 
 into Hell. The outer enclosing arch 
 rises from foliaged caps. ; and the 
 vault of the shallow porch is richly 
 
 diapered. All this work is in Bar- 
 nack stone ; and the diapering, 
 figures, and other ornaments, have 
 been painted. One original buttress 
 remains at the N.W. angle ; the 
 others are 17th-centy. work. A much 
 mutilated, but very beautiful arcade, 
 with a window, extends along one 
 stage of the N. side of the tower. 
 The other windows are ancient, 
 rebuilt. The trefoiled corbel table 
 under the parapet is E. Eng. The 
 parapet itself, with the spire, and its 
 short flying buttresses, is Dec. of the 
 middle of the 14th centy., but was 
 entirely rebuilt in the 17th. 
 
 Entering the church, it will be 
 seen that the piers on the S. side 
 of the nqve are E. Eng., part of the 
 original building. The two other 
 ranges are Dec., ■ as are the clere- 
 story, the plain open roof, and the 
 windows. The arch into the tower 
 is fine E. Eng. There , is a Dec. S, 
 porch ; and at the end of the S. aisle 
 was an altar of the Virgin, this 
 having served as the Lady Chapel 
 before the construction of the eastern 
 chapel, parallel with the chancel. 
 The windows throughout the church 
 are for the most part Dec. (curvi- 
 linear), and those of the chancel 
 have ogee headings. The font at 
 the end of the N. nave is E. Eng. 
 The chancel retains its E. Eng. 
 double piscina ; and the jambs of 
 the windows are also perhaps of this 
 period. The Dec. arches on the N. 
 side were, as has been said, cut 
 through the E. Eng. wall, and the 
 pier between them is a part of this 
 wall, and retains its E. Eng. string. 
 There is also a very beautiful Priests’ 
 door, of E. Eng. date. The church 
 was made collegiate, or rather a 
 college was attached to the church 
 by Abp. Chicheley in 1415, the year 
 after that in which he became Arch- 
 bishop of Canterbury. Accordingly, 
 the fittings of the chancel, with the 
 stalls and screen work, are of this 
 date. The 20 stalls were for the 
 members of the college (see post). 
 
30 
 
 Route 2 . — Northampton to Peterborough. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 On the subsellia is some good carv- 
 ing, including a head of the founder, 
 and the arms of Canterbury impaled 
 with Chicheley. The ancient altar 
 steps and the original tiling (earlier 
 than Chicheley’s time) remain, and 
 the arrangement of the tiles is worth 
 attention. Under the easternmost 
 arch dividing the chancel from the 
 Lady Chapel, is an altar-tomb of 
 great beauty, the sides of which have 
 panels with the arms of England. 
 The arch, which forms the canopy 
 of the tomb, has been painted in 
 compartments of red and green, and 
 figures of butterflies and lions ram- 
 pant appear on the mouldings. It 
 has been suggested that this tomb 
 was prepared for one of the Earls 
 of Lancaster, although not one of 
 them was buried here. There is 
 now on the high tomb the brass 
 of Lawrence Seymour, rector from 
 1289 to 1837, who wears the Eucha- 
 ristic vestments. The brass did not 
 at any time really belong to the 
 tomb, and has probably been placed 
 on it at a comparatively recent period. 
 A small door east of this tomb opens 
 to a sacristy formed at the back of 
 the altar of the Lady Chapel, an 
 arrangement found also in the church 
 of Rushden. 
 
 On the chancel floor is the brass 
 of the parents of Archbp. Chicheley. 
 It is a Latin cross, with emblems of 
 the Evangelists, and the Saviour in 
 Majesty in the centre. The inscrip- 
 tion at the foot records u Thomas 
 Chichele, who died, Feb. 25, 1400,” 
 and Agnes his wife. This interest- 
 ing brass, which the Abp. no doubt 
 placed here, has not escaped deface- 
 ment, and on the slab appears u R.S. 
 1773.” There are brasses for Richard 
 Wylleys, warden of the college ; for 
 a priest, 1498; and for William 
 Thorpe, “ marcer,” died 1504 — and 
 his wife. 
 
 The School House , on the S. side 
 of the ch.-yd., is a Perp. building of 
 3 bays, with very good windows, 
 open battlements, and buttresses 
 
 carrying finials. Within, in the 
 eastern part, is a stone pulpit. This 
 school was founded by Abp. Chiche- 
 ley ; like the Bede-house opposite, — 
 which was designed for 12 men and 
 one woman, all to be 50 years old 
 when elected, and one to be governor 
 with the title of Prior. The W. end 
 of the Bede-house, with its fine 
 window, and open bell-cot above, is 
 good. At the E. end is the chapel, 
 ascended by 6 steps from the hall. 
 
 The domestic buildings of Abp. 
 Chicheley’s College are in the main 
 street, and have become very ruinous. 
 They were built round a quadrangle, 
 of which the gateway remains, with 
 three niches above it ; some square- 
 headed windows; and the arch of 
 a larger window, blocked, under a 
 gable. This has been called the 
 window of a chapel — but without 
 good reason. The whole seems do- 
 mestic. 
 
 The name of Chichele was to be 
 fouud in the register of Higham 
 until the middle of the 17th centy. 
 Two brothers of the Abp. became, 
 one Lord Mayor of London, the 
 other alderman and sheriff. 
 
 [This will be the best starting- 
 place for visiting Rushden Church , 
 1J m. S. of Higham, on the high 
 road toward Bedford. Like most of 
 the churches in and near the Nen 
 valley, Rushden has some striking 
 peculiarities — the principal of which 
 are the richly decorated strainer 
 arch across the nave ; the small 
 flying buttresses at the porch; and 
 the beautiful “ Bochar ” arch into the 
 S chancel aisle. The ground- plan 
 is unusual — a short, broad nave, of 
 three bays, and with broad aisles; 
 a chancel and aisles of two bays, the 
 walls ranging parallel with those of 
 the nave; short, wide transepts, 
 opening on either side from the 
 easternmost bay of the nave ; N. and 
 S. porches in the westernmost bays ; 
 and a W. tower. The walls are 
 throughout very early Dec. except 
 
Northants. 
 
 Route 2 . — Rushden Church. 
 
 31 
 
 those of the tower. This is late 
 Dec. and at the time of its erection 
 the nave and transept roofs were 
 apparently lowered, and a clerestory 
 introduced. The nave pillars, strainer 
 arch, and tower windows, are early 
 Perp. — and about the beginning of 
 16th centy. the chancel piers and 
 arches, the windows and battlements, 
 were built and altered, and the 
 existing roofs erected. 
 
 The tower is crowned by a very 
 fine spire, more taper and more 
 graceful than that of Higham. There 
 are 3 ranges of Dec. lights, and, as 
 at Higham, small flying buttresses 
 connect the pinnacles of the tower. 
 This latter has lofty buttresses, set 
 on not quite close to the angle, and 
 having on the top a grotesque head. 
 The rich cornices and details of the 
 belfry stage should be especially 
 noticed — the windows here being 
 Perp. insertions. The W. portal, 
 trefoil-headed, is under a shallow 
 porch as at Higham; and this is 
 connected with the buttresses of the 
 tower by small and peculiar flying 
 buttresses. Within , the eye is at 
 
 once caught by the unusual width 
 and shallowness of the nave, and by 
 the singular strainer arch. There is 
 an arch of precisely the same cha- 
 racter in Finedon church (Rte. 12). 
 and in the same situation — parallel 
 with the W. walls of the transepts, 
 and rendered necessary by the thrust 
 of the western transept arches. In 
 both churches the arch is of early 
 Perp. character, with somewhat vary- 
 ing details. They are of course 
 insertions — of later date than the 
 walls they support; and may be 
 compared with the great buttressing 
 arches in Wells Cathedral, and with 
 others at Salisbury and Canterbury. 
 The effect here is to convert what is 
 really a defect into one of the richest 
 ornaments of the church. The nave 
 piers may^be of the same date as 
 this arch. The roof is good late 
 Perp., with figures of angels at the 
 corbels. The “ Bochar arch ” opens 
 
 from the S. transept into the chancel 
 aisle. It is Perp., springing from 
 caps, containing heads ; and on the 
 soflete is the legend “ Yis arche made 
 hue bochar and Julian hise wyf of 
 whos sowlus God have merci upon. 
 — Amen.” (Qy., Hugh the butcher ? 
 nothing is known of him.) On 
 either side of the arch, supporting 
 its exterior square label, is a bracket 
 with the figure of an angel holding 
 a scroll, with inscriptions : “ In God 
 is all,” and “ A God help.” A very 
 beautiful parclose, of the same period, 
 runs across the arch, and also encloses 
 the adjoining transept. There is a 
 screen of the same character across 
 the chancel arch, and another under 
 that N. In the chancel , the sedilia 
 and piscina belong to the very early 
 Dec. (almost E. Eng.) period. The 
 east window is rich late Perp., as are 
 others in the church, although some 
 of the Dec. lights remain. The east 
 end of the N. chancel aisle is walled 
 off, as at Higham, and served as a 
 sacristy. There are some remains 
 of stained glass. The font , of very 
 good character, is very early Dec. The 
 pulpit is Perp. There is a square- 
 headed fireplace at the W. end of 
 the N. aisle. The church contains 
 some monuments for the Pemberton 
 family, — one of whom, recording the 
 virtues of his wife, adds — 
 
 “ We had eight children to augment our joys. 
 For her fower daughters, and tor me tower 
 boys;” 
 
 but none of these are of much 
 interest. One William Maye, who 
 died in 1631, left the interest of 
 100Z. to the parish “so long as the 
 world indures,” — having little pre- 
 vision of commissioners or school 
 boards. He ordered also that a 
 prayer which he caused to be written 
 on one of the walls of the church, 
 should be “for ever” kept in repair. 
 It has been respected accordingly in 
 the restoration of Kush den church, 
 which was completed in 1875. The 
 I Earls of Lancaster w T ere for some 
 
32 
 
 Route 2 . — Northampton to Peterborough . 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 time lords of Rush den ; but there is 
 no evidence as to the builders of the 
 church. Rushden Hall (F. U. Sar- 
 toris, Esq.) stands near the village, 
 the people of which, as in most 
 other villages on this side of the 
 county, are chiefly boot and shoe 
 makers.] 
 
 [The pedestrian may walk from 
 Higham by Stanwich (2J m.), where 
 there is a most interesting church, 
 to Raunds (2 m. farther) where is a 
 station (1J m. from the village) on 
 the rly. from Huntingdon to Ketter- 
 ing. These churches are described 
 in Rte. 15. The country through 
 which he will pass is high, and 
 commands wide views.] 
 
 (c) The Church of Irthlingborough 
 is seen 1 m. W. of the Higham 
 Ferrers station. Its special feature 
 is the detached, square bell-tower, 
 with the lofty octagon arising from 
 it. Irthlingborough, in Domesday 
 “ Erdiburne,” and “ Erdinurne,” is 
 locally called u Hartlebury,” the old 
 t having been softened (in Irthlmg- 
 borough) into th. In the village 
 there stands the shaft of a cross, 
 13 ft. high, which, as Brydges says, 
 “ was used as a standard for the 
 pole to measure out the parts or 
 ‘ doles’ in the meadows.” This was 
 before the enclosure of the parish. 
 The manor was one of the earliest 
 possessions of the Abbey of Peter- 
 borough, and so remained until the 
 Dissolution. There were 2 churches 
 here — probably connected with two 
 distinct manors, but both belonging 
 to Peterborough. All Saints ’ has 
 entirely disappeared, and only part 
 of the foundations can be traced, in 
 an open field close to the village. 
 St. Peter’s , the existing church, was, 
 like that of Higham, collegiate. 
 The college was founded in 1376 by 
 John Pyel, citizen and mercer of 
 London, and in 1373, Lord Mayor. 
 He bought the manor, held under 
 the Abbey, from Sir Simon de 
 Drayton ; but died before his college 
 
 was completed, which was done by 
 his widow, Joan, in 1388. The 
 church owes its great interest to these 
 benefactors. The building, as it 
 existed before the collegiate founda- 
 tion, was E. Eng. and Dec., and was 
 not very important, though the 
 portions which remain of these 
 periods deserve attention. The 
 ground plan somewhat resembled 
 that of Rushden. Pyel and his 
 widow did something for the church, 
 and fitted the chancel with stalls for 
 the college; but their great works 
 were the detached campanile, the 
 octagon which crowns it, and the 
 domestic buildings of the college 
 which adjoined it, but have dis- 
 appeared. (It has been suggested 
 that the massive tower is itself E. 
 Eng., and that the windows in the 
 belfry stage are insertions. This is 
 at least doubtful, although there is, 
 at Marston Morteyne in Bedford- 
 shire, a great detached bell-tower, 
 much resembling this, part of which 
 Is certainly E. Eng. — See Hand- 
 book for Beds., Rte. 3.) The arms 
 of Pyel, a bend between two 
 mullets pierced, appear on many 
 parts of the tower. A late Dec. 
 porch, with 4 doorways opening to 
 the cardinal points, joins the W. 
 end of the nave. The W. doorway 
 leads into a building which joins the 
 campanile, and is perplexing in its 
 arrangement, although certainly con- 
 nected with the collegiate buildings. 
 The tower , into which it opens, is of 
 4 stages, very massive, having but- 
 tresses close to the angles. Those 
 on the S. side are modern, and a 
 vast buttress has also been built 
 against the eastern face, and was 
 rendered necessary by the dangerous 
 state of the tower, which leans to 
 the S.E. The belfry windows are 
 double, with a statue under a tre- 
 foiled niche, between each light. 
 The octagon which rises from the 
 tower is in 2 stages, and, as lias been 
 truly said, is far more domestic or 
 castellated in character than eccle- 
 
Horthants. 
 
 33 
 
 Route 2 . — 
 
 siastical. It was divided within 
 into 3 stories, connected by stair- 
 cases and passages in the thickness 
 of the wall. The lower, and the 
 uppermost chamber, have fireplaces. 
 A square-headed and panelled win- 
 dow appears on the outside on all 
 eight faces of this topmost chamber. 
 Within, they are only partially open 
 and become trefoiled lights with a 
 deep splay. There is no doubt that 
 these chambers were employed for 
 the domestic purposes of the college, 
 and the officers or others inhabiting 
 them must have been w T ell and airily 
 lodged. Three subterranean cham- 
 bers, traditionally called u Old Mar- 
 lom’s parlour/’ adjoin the tower, N. 
 They are vaulted, and on one of the 
 keystones are the arms of Fyel. The 
 main buildings of the college were 
 on the S. side of the church, and the 
 fragment of a Dec. arch, at the S.W. 
 angle of the S. aisle, must have 
 been in some way connected with 
 them. 
 
 Within the church remark a large 
 blank arch at the end of the N. tran- 
 sept, of E. Eng. date, and never, as 
 is clear, open. There is no sign 
 of it on the exterior. There is a 
 crypt or vault under the S. transept. 
 In the S. choir aisle is the tomb, 
 with effigies, of John Pyel and his 
 wife, the founders of the college. 
 Here also is a monument of black 
 marble, of the 16th centy., with mural 
 brasses, and a curious mixture of 
 renaissance in its details. It is un- 
 known for whom it was erected. The 
 mutilated figure of Elizabeth, or 
 Ann, Dame Cheyne, and a small 
 brass with inscription only, for 
 Richard Fryseby, first dean of the 
 college, who died in 1415, are also 
 in the church. The college con- 
 sisted of 6 canons, one of whom was 
 dean, and 4 clerks. 
 
 Leaving the Higham Ferrers sta- 
 tion, and still journeying onward in 
 company with the river, which winds 
 and sparkles on the left, the rly. 
 reaches the next station at 
 
 Ringstead , 
 
 Eingstead ( Stat .). A small group 
 of churches, not of the first order, 
 but of interest, is to be visited from 
 this station: — Ringstead, Denford, 
 Woodford, and the two Addingtons. 
 Eingstead (restored, 1863) has an E. 
 Eng. tower and spire (remark the 
 narrow lancet with sculptured head 
 in the 2nd story of the tower). The 
 nave is for the most part E. Eng.; 
 the chancel late Dec. There is a 
 N. aisle, which is continued nearly 
 parallel with the chancel ; and, as at 
 Higham Ferrers and at Rushden, 
 the easternmost portion of the chan- 
 try thus formed is separated by a 
 solid wall, and serves as a sacristy 
 or vestry, entered by a Dec. door on 
 the N. side of the altar. In the 
 vestry are some remains of wall 
 painting. A path from Ringstead 
 to'Raunds is known as the 6t Friar’s 
 Path,” and is perhaps a relic of the 
 dependence of this church, with that 
 of Denford, on the Abbey of Chester. 
 Denford (restored, 1865), 1J m. N., 
 has an E. Eng. tower and spire. The 
 rest of the church is very early Dec., 
 with some Perp. insertions. The 
 most noticeable feature is the stone 
 sedilia — 4 on the N. side of the chan- 
 cel, and 3 on the S. — separated by 
 clustered shafts which carry trefoiled 
 arches. The Vicarage is united with 
 that of Ringstead; and the numerous 
 sedilia may possibly be connected 
 with the appropriation by Chester. 
 Woodford (restored, 1867) lies about 
 2 m. W. from Denford, on the oppo- 
 site bank of the river. This is an 
 interesting church, with an E. Eng. 
 tower, and Dec. spire. The pin- 
 nacles at the angles of the tower are 
 Dec., and unusual in composition. 
 The S. porch and door, E. Eng. and 
 very graceful, deserve special notice. 
 A small chapel, entered from the 
 aisle, is attached to the porch on the 
 E. side. A portion of the nave ar- 
 cade is round-headed, and the capi- 
 tals are unusually sculptured; but it 
 is quite possible that this work is 
 not more ancient than the beginning 
 c 3 
 
34 
 
 Route 2 . — Northampton to Peterborough . Sect. I. 
 
 of the 13th centy. Nave and aisles 
 are crossed by arches at the 4th bay 
 from the tower. The long and nar- 
 row chancel (Dec.), leans perceptibly 
 to the N. The font is E. Eng. 
 There is some Perp. woodwork in 
 the church. In the N. aisle are the 
 effigies of Sir Walter Trailli, and his 
 wife Alianora, temp. Ed. I. They 
 are carved in wood, an nnusual ex- 
 ample. The lady’s dress is covered 
 with a diapered pattern, and both 
 figures show traces of painting in 
 vermilion. The Traillis (see Yielden , 
 Hdbh. for Beds., Ete. 6) were for 
 some time lords of the manor, and 
 patrons of the church. In a recess 
 cut into one of the pillars, and faced 
 with glass, are the remains of a 
 human heart, wrapped in coarse 
 cloth. This is supposed to be the 
 heart of a Trailli, killed in a cru- 
 sade. In the chancel is the altar - 
 tomb, with brass , of Symon Malory, 
 died 1580. Numerous Koman relics, 
 including the foundations of a villa, 
 have been found in this parish. 
 Here is Woodford House (Hon. Mrs. 
 Arbuthnot). 
 
 Great Addington is 1J m. S. of 
 Woodford, on the same side of the 
 Nen. The tower (without a spire) 
 is Dec., and very beautiful in all its 
 details — windows (two of which are 
 lozenge-shaped), panelled baud below 
 the battlements, and niche above the 
 W. door. The rest of the church is 
 for the most part Dec. The E. Eng. 
 font, and a pillared piscina, deserve 
 attention. The latter is in a chantry 
 at the E. end of the N. aisle ; founded 
 by Henry Vere early in the 16th centy. 
 His monument, with effigy, wearing 
 a collar of SS, remains in the aisle ; 
 and an inscription records that he 
 left 3 drs., of whom the eldest was 
 married “ to John Lord Mordaunt, 
 first Barr, of this kingdom.’" On a 
 raised slab of black marble is the 
 brass of John Bloxam, 1st Chaplain 
 of this chantry, died 1519. He holds 
 in his hands the chalice, containing 
 a wafer with the sacred monogram. 
 
 At the corners of the slab are the 
 emblems of the 4 Evangelists. (The 
 register of Great Addington contains 
 some curious entries by Thomas Cox, 
 rector, who died in 1640. One of 
 these relates to a popular rising 
 which took place in some part of 
 Northamptonshire, in 1607, to de- 
 stroy “the hedges and other mounds 
 of the enclosed fields.” There were 
 disturbances at Eushden and Pyclie- 
 ley ; and again at Newton near Ged- 
 dington, where there was a fight 
 between the people and the “justices 
 and gentlemen.” Some were killed 
 and wounded, and many taken pri- 
 soners. These, on conviction, were 
 hanged and quartered, and their quar- 
 ters set up at Northampton, Oundle, 
 Thrapston, and other places.) A 
 field called Shooter’s Hill, in this 
 parish, marks the site of a large 
 burial-place, perhaps Brito-Eoman. 
 Many skeletons have been found. 
 
 Little Addington , 1 m. S., is almost 
 entirely Dec., with very pure and 
 beautiful tower arch, and main ar- 
 cade.) 
 
 Beyond Eingstead station the rly. 
 crosses the Midland line from Hunt- 
 ingdon to Kettering, close to the 
 station on that line, which serves for 
 Thrapston ; and speedily reaches its 
 own station at 
 
 Thrapston (St at.). The Midland 
 stat. just passed is about J m. from 
 the town. In approaching, the spire 
 of Islip is seen 1. 
 
 Thrapston (Inn : the White Hart) 
 is a market town of 1233 inhab., and 
 the most important in this part of 
 the county. It is the great grain- 
 market for much of Huntingdonshire 
 and Northamptonshire ; and the two 
 lines of railway render it easy of 
 access from all parts. There is no- 
 thing in Thrapston, however (it is 
 Trapestone in Domesday), to attract 
 the tourist. The church has a late 
 Dec. tower with spire, and chancel. 
 The nave is modern. There is an 
 indifferent east window of stained 
 glass by Wailes ; and a better on the 
 
35 
 
 Northants. Route 2. — Thrapston — Islip — Lowich 
 
 S. side of the chancel. Two low 
 mounds, N.W. of the church, are 
 supposed to mark the site of a castle, 
 of which there is no record. 
 
 Uninteresting as the town is in 
 itself, it is the best station from 
 which to visit the churches of Islip 
 and Lowick — (the latter full of fine 
 monuments and ancient stained glass) 
 — and the grand old mansion of Dray- 
 ton. These places lie across the Nen, 
 1. To the rt. is the church of Tich- 
 marsh, worth a visit. 
 
 (a) There is a very pretty view 
 from the bridge which crosses the 
 Nen between Thrapston and Islip. 
 The river sweeps round between 
 green meadows, overhung in the 
 foreground by masses of fine trees. 
 Loose-strife, arrow-head, the flower- 
 ing rush, and many of the rarer 
 water-plants abound; and the tall 
 rushes which border the stream are 
 used here for plaiting the outer por- 
 tion of horse-collars and mats, and 
 for the seats of chairs. The church 
 of Islip is about 1 m. from the sta- 
 tion. It stands, as usual, on the 
 higher ground; and its tall, Perp. 
 spire is a good landmark. The 
 church was originally Dec., and the 
 lower part of the tower may be of 
 this period. This first building was 
 replaced by a Perp. nave, aisles, and 
 chancel. Perp. buttresses and an 
 upper story were added to the tower, 
 which was then crowned by its grace- 
 ful spire. The proportions of the 
 church (which has been carefully 
 restored) are unusually perfect ; the 
 chancel is large; fine and lofty 
 arches open into chancel and tower, 
 and the main arcade has very pecu- 
 liar piers, each of which is a long, 
 narrow strip of masonry set N. and 
 S., with attached shafts, E. and W. 
 The shafts have high bases. The 
 reredos is modern. 
 
 There are some good old houses 
 in the village of Islip, and the chim- 
 ney, so characteristic of Northamp- 
 tonshire building, is here well seen. 
 They are in pairs, with what is 
 
 called a “ wind-break ” or hollow be- 
 tween them. The cottages are for 
 the most part built of stone, oolite, 
 or ironstone ; and it may be remarked 
 that throughout the county isolated 
 farm-houses are rare. This has re- 
 sulted from the comparatively late 
 period (in many parishes, the end 
 of the last century, or the beginning 
 of the present) at which the whole 
 country was enclosed. Each parish 
 had its open “field,” meadow and 
 arable, in which the householders 
 had their “doles” or shares. The 
 “town,” the place of the original set- 
 tlement, thus retained its import- 
 ance, and the houses of the principal 
 farmers were gathered there, and not 
 dispersed through the parish. The 
 old forest character of the county 
 may have helped to preserve these 
 primitive features. Such solitary 
 farm-houses as do exist are generally 
 called “lodges,” and seem to have 
 been at first houses for verderers or 
 keepers in the open spaces of the 
 woods. 
 
 From Islip a good road leads to 
 Lowick (2 m.), and there is a striking 
 view over the country to the N.E., 
 from the hill above Harper’s Brook, 
 as the streamlet is called which 
 winds onward to the Nen. The 
 lantern of Lowick Church (which 
 must on no account be neglected by 
 the antiquary) is seen rising among 
 wood in front. The manor (Luhwie 
 in Domesday, afterwards Lofwic and 
 Luffwick), and its members, were 
 held by various possessors, Nowers, 
 De Veres, and Greenes, until, coming 
 into the hands of this last family, it 
 continued as a member of Drayton 
 Manor, with the possessors of that 
 house. The Church (restored 1869) 
 is Perp., with a tower of the same 
 date, carrying an octagonal lantern, 
 supported by flying buttresses from 
 the tower. In the church, remark 
 the sedilia in the chancel, and in 
 the chapel at the end of the north 
 choir aisle. The monuments and the 
 glass , however, are the chief points 
 
36 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Route 2 . — Drayton : the Church. 
 
 of interest here. The brief history 
 of the successive lords of Drayton 
 (with which Lowick went), given 
 post, will explain most of these 
 monuments . There is, between the 
 chancel and the N. choir aisle, 
 the very fine alabaster tomb, with 
 effigies of Ralph Greene, Esquire, 
 and Katherine (Mallory) his wife — 
 the second lord of Drayton and 
 Lowick of that name — who died 
 circ. 1420. He is in armour; and 
 on the front of his bascinet are the 
 letters IHS. NAZE. (Jesus of Naza- 
 reth). She has a rich headdress. 
 The knight holds her hand, an un- 
 usual arrangement. The altar-tomb 
 has angels bearing shields. The 
 treatment of the angels’ wings is 
 noticeable. (The indenture for the 
 making of this monument between 
 Katherine, widow of Ralph Greene, 
 and Thos. Prentys and Robert Sutton, 
 4 ‘ Kervers,” exists, and is printed in Sir 
 R. C. Hoare’s 4 Warminster,’ p. 9. The 
 4 4 Kervers” were of Chelaston in Derby, 
 and were bound to make the tomb 
 4 4 bien honestement et profi tablement” 
 of alabaster, w T ith effigies. It was to 
 cost 4: quarant livres d’esterling,” 40 1. 
 sterling, and to be finished before 
 ‘‘Pasques,” 1420.) There are also, 
 in the N. chapel, monuments for 
 Lady Mary Mordaunt, Duchess of 
 Norfolk by her first marriage, and 
 afterwards wife of Sir John Germain, 
 died 1705; and for Sir John Ger- 
 main himself, died 1718. His 2nd 
 wife was the Lady Betty Germain 
 of whom we read in Walpole. She 
 was the dr. of Charles, E. of Berke- 
 ley, and is recorded here by a small 
 brass plate. In another chapel, pro- 
 jecting from the S. aisle of the church , 
 is the tomb with effigy, of Edward 
 Stafford, Earl of Wiltshire, died 1499. 
 The long hair is flung back curiously. 
 The letters of the inscription round 
 the verge of the tomb, and the leaf 
 ornament dividing the words, should 
 be noticed for their great beauty. 
 The whole is a model. The altar- 
 tomb with brasses is that of Sir Henry 
 
 Greene, died 1467, and his wife 
 Margaret. He is in a tabard. The 
 brass is sprinkled with scrolls, im 
 scribed 44 Da gl’iam Deo.” Some 
 modern monuments, including one for 
 Charles Sackviile, 5th and last Duke 
 of Dorset, d. 1843, should also be 
 noticed. 
 
 The stained glass fills the Perp. 
 windows in the N. aisle of the nave. 
 Portions of it are the remains of one 
 or perhaps of two Jesse windows, and 
 the whole is of the Dec. period. It 
 belonged, therefore, to some window 
 or windows now destroyed, and it is 
 probable that part at least came from 
 a Dec. east window which the pre- 
 sent Perp. one has replaced. The 
 figures are those of kings and pro- 
 phets, such as usually appear in a 
 tree of Jesse, each surrounded by 
 branches with leaves and fruit. 
 There are no canopies. In the 
 heads of the windows are smaller 
 figures; among which St. John the 
 Baptist, St. Andrew, and St. Michael 
 are conspicuous. The tone, texture, 
 and colouring of the glass are all of 
 Dec. character. The last figure, at 
 the E. end, belonged no doubt to a 
 different window. It is that of a 
 knight completely armed in chain- 
 mail, kneeling, and offering the 
 model of a church. On the hilt of 
 the sword are the letters I. H. S. 
 The shield bears arg. a cross en- 
 grailed, gules, the arms of Drayton, 
 but assumed afterwards byDe Yeres 
 and Greenes. There has been some 
 question as to the date of this figure, 
 since, while the armour might be- 
 long to the time of Henry III., the 
 church in the hand seems to be late 
 Dec. It is tolerably certain, there- 
 fore, that the glass is of that period, 
 and the figure may have been imi- 
 tated from some earlier design. An 
 old tradition (there is no other evi- 
 dence) asserts that it represents Sir 
 Walter de Yere, who took the cross 
 under Rich. I., and assumed the 
 arms of Drayton. He is said to have 
 founded or largely restored the ch. 
 
Northants. 
 
 37 
 
 Route 2 . — Drayton : History. 
 
 of Lowick. On the other hand, Mr. 
 Ayliffe Poole suggests that it may 
 represent the 2nd Sir Henry Greene, 
 circ. 1370, who was probably the 
 restorer or rebuilder of the church. 
 In the lower part of the windows 
 runs a broken inscription, not fully 
 intelligible, but containing a bidding 
 prayer for some Drayton. In the N. 
 chantry and in the chancel are some 
 shields of arms, chiefly those of 
 Greenes with their alliances. 
 
 At the eastern entrance of the 
 village is a barn of tiie 14th centy., 
 belonging to what was once an im- 
 portant grange. Jones of Nay land, 
 the well known “ divine,” was born 
 here ; and there is an inscription in 
 the ch.-yd. composed by him. In a 
 field S. of the village is the Lowick 
 oak — one of the largest perfect (not 
 hollow) oaks in this country. The 
 vast size of the tree is not evident 
 until you are close under it< Then 
 it is seen that the first limbs are of 
 huge girth, and that the main bole 
 above them is still enormous. The 
 bark is ribbed and furrowed, and 
 the great root crowns grandly folded 
 and contorted. It is Q. sessiliflora, 
 and a chief relic of the forest that 
 once covered all this country. 
 
 Drayton (Mrs. Stopford Sackville), 
 one of the most interesting places in 
 Northamptonshire, lies about 1J m. 
 S.W. of Lowick. The house is ap- 
 proached through a park rich in 
 stately avenues of wych-elms and 
 lime-trees; and, with the surrounding 
 grounds and gardens, affords such a 
 picture of antiquity as will not easily 
 be matched. The manor of Drayton 
 in the reign of Hen. II. was in the 
 hands of Aubrey de Yere, the first 
 Earl of Oxford of that great house. 
 It descended to his second son, 
 Robert de Vere, and continued in 
 that family until late in the reign of 
 Ed. III. Sir Walter de Yere, temp. 
 Rich. I., took the name of Drayton, 
 and assumed the arms afterwards 
 borne by all his representatives. 
 (See Lowick Church .) About the 
 
 35th year of Ed. III. his descend- 
 ant, Sir John of Drayton, con- 
 veyed the lordship to Sir Henry 
 Greene, then Chief Justice of Eng- 
 land. This Sir Henry had married 
 Catherine of Drayton, aunt of Sir 
 John. His son was the Henry 
 Greene who was one of the principal 
 followers of Rich. II., and who, to- 
 gether with the E. of Wiltshire and 
 Sir John Bushey, was beheaded by 
 the D. of Lancaster after the taking 
 of Bristol Castle. His son Ralph 
 recovered Drayton, and the Greenes 
 held it until it passed by marriage 
 with its heiress, Constance Greene, 
 to John Lord Stafford, 2nd son of 
 the D. of Buckingham, created E. of 
 Wiltshire in the 9th year of Ed. IV. 
 Thence Drayton passed, again by 
 marriage, to John, Lord Mordaunt, 
 temp. Hen. VII. ; and the Mordaunts 
 (who made Turvey in Bedfordshire 
 their principal seat— see Hdbk. for 
 Beds., Bte. 5 — and became Earls 
 of Peterborough temp. Charles I.) 
 retained it until the death of the 2nd 
 Earl, whose dr. Mary married 1st 
 the D. of Norfolk, and 2nd Sir John 
 Germain — carrying Drayton to each 
 husband. She left it at her death 
 to Sir John, whose 2nd wife was 
 Lady Elizabeth, dr. of Charles, E. 
 of Berkeley. Sir John Germain 
 was a gambling adventurer, who, 
 according to Walpole, was so ignorant 
 that he placed the pillars of his new 
 colonnade “ with the capitals down- 
 ward, supposing them pedestals ” — 
 and who turned the fish-ponds into 
 a hop-garden. He left Drayton to 
 Lady Betty, who bequeathed it in 
 turn to Lord George Sackville, who 
 is represented by the present owner. 
 
 The first E. of Peterborough, who 
 died in 1642, is said to have been 
 converted from Romanism through a 
 discussion held at Drayton between 
 Abp. Usher and Rokewood, a Jesuit. 
 His widow lived in a private house 
 at Lowick, and maintained Archbp. 
 Usher for some time after his com- 
 pelled absence from Ireland. His 
 
38 
 
 Boute 2 .-- Drayton : History . 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 famous 4 Conferences with a Jesuit * 
 (Rokewood and Beaumont are both 
 named) were held here. When the 
 Countess of Peterborough visited 
 King Charles at Holdenby, and told 
 him that she maintained the Abp., the 
 king replied that, 44 charity covered 
 a multitude of faults.” Usher’s Pu- 
 ritan views were not in favour at 
 court. 
 
 (The history of Drayton is told in 
 a very rare volume (only eighteen 
 copies are known to exist) entitled 
 4 Succinct Genealogies of certain noble 
 and ancient families, by Robert Hal- 
 stead, London, 1685/ There is a 
 copy in the Brit. Mus., and one is 
 retained at Drayton, where the book 
 was compiled by the 2nd E. of Peter- 
 borough, with the help of his chap- 
 lain Mr. Pans. The name of Halstead 
 is fictitious.) 
 
 Sir Simon de Drayton (of the 
 House of De Vere) had licence in the 
 5th year of Ed. III. to convert his 
 mansion house here into a castle, 
 and to impark 30 acres round it. 
 Henry, the last of the Greenes, 
 whose daughter Constance married 
 Lord John Stafford, afterwards E. 
 of Wiltshire, rebuilt great part of 
 the house, which was again much 
 altered by the Mordaunts in the 
 reign of Elizabeth, and underwent 
 a considerable remodelling under 
 William III. — perhaps at the hands 
 of Mary, the Mordaunt heiress. All 
 this variety gives a somewhat un- 
 * usual character to the house. Tudor 
 towers are crowned by Wm. III. 
 cupolas, and a 44 vast hall has been 
 interpolated within the old quad- 
 rangle, the approach to which, 
 through the dead wall of the 
 mediseval screen, gives the place a 
 very foreign air.” Here, however, 
 i3 Horace Walpole’s description, 
 written to Montague, July 23, 1763, 
 but still appropriate : — 
 
 44 Well ! we hurried away and got 
 to Drayton an hour before dinner. 
 Oh ! the dear old place ! You would 
 be transported with it. In the first 
 
 place it stands in as ugly a hole as 
 Boughton ; well, that is not its 
 beauty. The front is a brave, strong 
 castle wall, embattled, and loop- 
 holed for defence. Passing the 
 great gate you come to a sumptuous, 
 but narrow modern court, behind 
 which rises the old mansion, all 
 towers and turrets. The house is 
 excellent; has a vast hall, ditto 
 dining-room, king’s chamber, trunk 
 gallery at the' top of the house, 
 handsome chapel, and 7 or 8 distinct 
 apartments, besides closets and con- 
 veniences without end. Then it is 
 covered with portraits, crammed 
 with old china, furnished richly, 
 and not a rag in it under forty, fifty, 
 or a thousand years old, and not a 
 bed or a chair that has lost a tooth, 
 or got a grey hair, so well are they 
 preserved. I rummaged it from 
 head to foot, examined every 
 spangled bed, and enamelled pair 
 of bellows, for such there are; in 
 short I do not believe the old man- 
 sion was ever better pleased with an 
 inhabitant since the days of Walter 
 de Drayton, except when it has 
 received its divine old mistress. If 
 one could honour her more than one 
 did before, it would be to see with 
 what religion she keeps up the old 
 dwelling and customs, as well as old 
 servants, who you may imagine do 
 not love her less than other people 
 do. The garden is just as Sir John 
 Germaine brought it from Holland ; 
 pyramidal yews, treillages, and 
 square cradle walks, with windows 
 clipped in them.” The 44 divine old 
 mistress ” was of course Lady Betty, 
 whose receipts for apricot jam are 
 still famous at Drayton. 
 
 The screen through which the 
 court is entered is Edwardian, and 
 no doubt part of Simon de Drayton’s 
 work. The fine vaulted cellars also 
 belong to this period. The very 
 rich iron work of the entrance gates, 
 and the Venetian knockers on the 
 great doors, deserve notice. The 
 iron work (of which there is much 
 
Northants. 
 
 Route 2. — Drayton: Pictures. 
 
 39 
 
 in the neighbourhood of the house) 
 bears the cypher of Mary Mordaun.t, 
 Duchess of Norfolk — and its date is 
 thus clearly marked. The fine 
 colour of the stone, as the court is 
 entered, receives additional value 
 from the creepers trained against 
 part of the walls. Within, the house 
 retains its spangled beds, its wealth 
 of old china, including various 
 monsters patronised by Lady Betty, 
 and a great number of portraits, 
 some few of which are of interest. 
 The long gallery at the top of the 
 house is now used as a library, and 
 is approached by a remarkable geo- 
 metrical staircase of oak. William 
 III. once visited Drayton (probably 
 when he passed to Althorp in 1695), 
 and in anticipation of his arrival the 
 hall and the great dining room 
 received the Italianised decorations 
 which they still retain. The follow- 
 ing are the most important pictures. 
 In the hall: Henry D. of Norfolk, 
 on a grey horse ; fig. by Lely. Wil- 
 liam III. on a grey barb; Kneller. 
 James E. of Berkeley; Kneller . 
 King's Dining Boom : Eliz., wife of 
 John Mordaunt, 1st E. of Peter- 
 borough ; Vandyck. Henry, 2nd E. 
 of Peterborough, fall length in 
 armour; Dobson. Drawing Room : 
 Lord George Germain; Romney. 
 (This was Lady Betty’s heir, Lord 
 G. Sackville, who took the name of 
 Germain.) Joseph Darner, 1st Ba- 
 ron Milton, afterwards E. of Dor- 
 chester, and his wife, both by Bat- 
 toni. A portrait said to be that of 
 Sir Thomas Boleyn, father of Anne 
 Boleyn, and ascribed to Holbein. 
 Philip le Bel, father of Charles V. 
 A portrait called that of Cervantes. 
 Anne, Countess of Warwick, wife of 
 Ambrose Dudley, E. of W. ; Sir A. 
 More. In this room is a singular 
 clock, perhaps French, the hours 
 marked on a globe at the top, the 
 works within an open enrichment 
 of gold, the whole jewelled. Blue 
 Room: Charles E. of Peterborough 
 and Monmouth ; Mary Q. of Eng- 
 
 land; Lucas de Reeve. Little Draw- 
 ing Room : Lord George Sackville 
 (Germain) ; Sir J. Reynolds. George 
 Darner, 2nd E. of Dorchester ; Rey- 
 nolds. Lord and Lady Hunsdon, 
 both by Zucchero. 2 views of Venice ; 
 Canaletto. Dining Room : Henry 
 Bich, E. of Holland ; Mytens. Little 
 Dining Room : Father Huddlestone, 
 confessor to Charles II. Ante Room : 
 Frances, Duchess of Bichmond and 
 Lennox, dr. of Thomas Lord Howard 
 of Bindon, assigned to Vandyck . 
 Staircase: Thos. Sackville, 1st E. 
 of Dorset ; and a very curious picture 
 representing a “ play of canes,” “ Gi- 
 uocco de Cainnas,” before the Em- 
 peror Charles V. It is signed “Jo- 
 hannes Maius,” and is by Mayo, do- 
 mestic painter to the Emperor. The 
 inscription underneath runs, “ Carol. 
 V. nuper Hisp. Bex Chariss. con- 
 jugi Isabellse Auguste gravide in 
 agri Toletani planitie jaculationem 
 cannarum ludum fecit, 1539, mense 
 Mart. Ut prsesens viderat Johannes 
 Maiius pictor effinxit.” The “ play 
 of canes” is the “djerreed” play of 
 the East, and was common among 
 the Spanish Moors. It is played on 
 horseback, the reeds being aimed at 
 the back of the galloping rider. 
 
 The gardens, which had under- 
 gone some change since Walpole 
 visited them, were restored to their 
 ancient formality by the late pos- 
 sessor, Mr. Stopford Sackville. There 
 are large pieces of still water, in 
 which the house is reflected, with 
 lime-trees of great size sweeping the 
 banks, and walks of bright green 
 turf between them. Old hedges of 
 hornbeam and beech, berceaux and 
 cabinets de verdure, might be the 
 very same t£ brought from Holland ” 
 by Sir John Germain. There is a 
 banqueting house ; and the south 
 front of the mansion, with its Eliza- 
 bethan towers and cupolas, rises 
 above formal beds and alleys set 
 thick with old-fashioned flowers, 
 j [From Lowick the tourist may 
 | proceed to Sudborough , about 1| m. 
 
40 
 
 Route 2 . — Sudborough : the Black Watch. Sect. I. 
 
 N.W. The Church (restored) is 
 chiefly E. Eng. with a fine piscina 
 and single sedile on the S. side of 
 the chancel. The tipper part of the 
 chancel is Dec. Here is the good 
 effigy of Sir Eobert de Yere, standard 
 bearer to William Longespee, E. of 
 Salisbury, and killed with him in 
 Palestine. Under a window at the 
 E. end of the N. nave aisle is a brass 
 with figures of William West, died 
 1390, and Joanna h/s wife, and of 
 Wm. West, “Marblerus,” worker of 
 marble (?). Sudborough belonged for 
 some time to the De Yeres, and after- 
 wards went nearly in the same line 
 with Drayton. There are large 
 earthworks and ponds at a place 
 called “ Money-holes,” said to be the 
 site of a monastery, of which nothing 
 whatever is known. The country 
 here is not greatly broken, but is 
 pleasant; and large woods stretch 
 away northward, through which 
 the pedestrian may find his way 
 (though this will not be easy for 
 a stranger) to Lyveden new and 
 old buildings , distant about 4 m. 
 They are more easily reached how- 
 ever from Oundle (see post). These 
 woods are divided and cut through 
 by broad green tracks called “ rid- 
 ings” (hridding A.S. = a clearing) 
 and narrower paths called “ tracks.” 
 There is a track known as “King 
 Stephen’s riding,” near Brigstock, 
 and many of them are no doubt of 
 great antiquity — hunters’ passes 
 through the forest. The long green 
 alley, with fine oak rising among the 
 thick wood at the sides, is often 
 very impressive. ** Twayblade ” and 
 “ Herb Paris ” are frequent in these 
 woods, which in the spring are 
 blue with the wild hyacinth ( Scilla 
 nutans). One of the woods toward 
 Lyveden is known as Lady Wood, 
 and is connected with the re- 
 markable attempt of the “Black 
 Watch” — the 42nd regiment — to 
 return to the Highlands after their 
 march to England in 1743. The 
 independent companies of the Black 
 
 Watch, formed in the Highlands 
 after the rising of 1715, were, in 
 1740, embodied into a regiment, 
 apparently with the understanding 
 that they should not be moved from 
 their own country. Notwithstanding 
 this, and against the strong remon- 
 strances of President Forbes of Cul- 
 loden, they were marched to London 
 in 1743, and it was believed that 
 they were destined for foreign service. 
 They were reviewed on Finchley 
 Common by Marshal Wade, but 
 there was great discontent and 
 uneasiness among them, increased 
 by persons who were anxious to 
 excite a spirit of disaffection to 
 the government, and who made the 
 Highlanders believe that they were 
 to be transported to the American 
 plantations for life. The greater 
 part of the regiment accordingly 
 resolved to return to Scotland, and 
 began their march northward on the 
 night of the 14th of May. It is 
 remarkable that, in spite of orders 
 issued to the sheriffs and officers of 
 the counties through which their 
 route lay, nothing was heard of them 
 for 5 days. They kept between the 
 two great northern roads (setting 
 out from Highgate) and passed from 
 wood to wood, until they were at 
 last discovered in Lady Wood, about 
 5 m. from Oundle. General Blakeney, 
 then stationed at Northampton, 
 marched with a body of troops 
 towards the wood where the*High- 
 landers lay, and drew up close out- 
 side it. Some conferences took 
 place, and the men long declared 
 that they would not submit without 
 promise of a free pardon. The 
 general declared that unless they 
 surrendered, they should be cut to 
 pieces ; and they began after some 
 hours to come over to him in bodies 
 of ten and fifteen. All at length 
 surrendered. They were taken back 
 to London, tried by court martial, 
 and condemned to be shot, a sentence 
 which was only carried out on three 
 of them. At least one of the High- 
 
Northants. 
 
 Route 2 . — Tichmarsh. 
 
 41 
 
 landers died during their sojourn in 
 Lady Wood, and a corner of land 
 near it was until lately known as the 
 “ soldier’s grave.” The site is still 
 remembered, but the ground has 
 long been under the plough. 
 
 (b) 2 m. N.E. of Thrapston, on 
 high ground, is Tichmarsh ( Tyccen , 
 A.S. = goat's marsh?), where the 
 church is interesting, and has some 
 memorials of the poet Dryden. 
 Early in the reign of Ed. YI. Gilbert 
 Pickering bought a manor in Tich- 
 marsh with the advowsons of Tich- 
 marsh and Aldwincle All Sts., from 
 Wm. E. of Worcester. Henry Picker- 
 ing, a younger son of Sir Gilbert 
 Pickering of Tichmarsh, was rector 
 of Aldwincle All Saints, and his 
 daughter Mary, married, Oct. 21, 
 1630, Erasmus Dryden, 3rd son of 
 Sir E. Dryden, Bart., of Canons 
 Ashby. The poet (born at Aldwincle 
 — see post ) was their eldest son. 
 His father, after his marriage, lived 
 much at Tichmarsh, and is described 
 as “of Tichmarsh” in the letters 
 patent of 1670, making John Dryden 
 poet laureate. Under his father’s 
 will the poet acquired some small 
 property in the parish ; and he 
 sometimes visited his cousin, Mrs. 
 Creed, here and at Cotterstock (see 
 post). Mrs. Creed, the only daugh- 
 ter of Sir Gilbert Pickering, whose 
 husband died in 1701, was some- 
 thing of an artist, and in her old age 
 painted sundry decorations for this 
 church (and many others in the 
 neighbourhood), including an ela- 
 borate memorial for that “pieous 
 Christian,” Mrs. Jane Pickering, 
 which still remains here. The 
 inscriptions for that family, which 
 exist in the N. aisle of the chan- 
 cel, were nearly all composed by 
 her, including one for Dryden’s 
 father and mother, who were buried 
 here. He receives himself a long 
 commemoration on this tablet ; 
 “We boast,” it runs in part, “ that 
 he was bred and had his first learn- 
 
 ing here, where he has often made 
 us happie by his kind visits and 
 most delightful conversation.” Above 
 this tablet is a wooden (in every 
 sense) bust of “ glorious John,” with 
 the words, “The Poet.” Mrs. Creed’s 
 own monument, with a large, plain 
 marble urn and two “ sauce bolts,” 
 is at the end of the S. aisle. 
 
 The church itself (restored) has 
 early Dec. nave and chancel, with 
 Perp. windows inserted, and a su- 
 perb W. tower, in four stages, with 
 bands of quatrefoiled ornament, 
 niches, pinnacles, and a battlement 
 rising in steps between them. It is 
 of finely coloured Welden stone, full 
 of shells, and for the most part very 
 perfect. The capitals of the main 
 arcade, and the ornaments at the 
 terminations of the hood mouldings 
 should be noticed. On the eastward 
 side of the chancel arch is a king’s 
 head — perhaps that of Ed. I. — with 
 long moustache and small coronet. 
 There is some Norm, work on the 
 interior of the doorway S. of the 
 chancel — and the chancel walls seem 
 to have been much altered — probably 
 when the Perp. east window was 
 inserted. This is filled with stained 
 glass by Hardman , together with 
 one of the side windows. (In the 
 E. window appears St. John taking 
 home the Virgin — the figures from 
 Delaroche’s picture.) The low 
 modern reredos has well sculptured 
 symbolical subjects — Abraham and 
 Melchizedec, and Abraham offering 
 Isaac. 
 
 The Pickering Manor-house (quite 
 gone) stood, on the S. side of the 
 church, near a very fine elm-tree 
 seen from the ch.-yd., The clock 
 worked into the side of the tower 
 was erected by that family, and was 
 visible from the house. There was 
 a curious structure (long removed) 
 leading from the entrance of the 
 ch.-yd. to the parvise over the S. 
 porch, which served as the Pickering 
 pew. In it Dryden may often have 
 sat. The ditches and mounds of 
 
42 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Boute 2 . — Northampton to Peterborough. 
 
 a castle of the Lovells still exist 
 about J m. S.E. of the church. 
 On the rectory lawn is, perhaps, 
 the finest cedar of Lebanon in 
 England. The height is 67 ft. — 
 circumf. of farthest boughs, 90 
 yards. The tree was planted in 
 1627, and is said to have been then 
 20 years old. Its age is therefore 
 about 260 years. The form is 
 rounded rather than pyramidal ; the 
 colour is a silvery grey ; and the 
 branches, more like those of the 
 Deodara than the Lebanon cedar, 
 feather quite to the ground. The 
 tree is healthy, still growing, and 
 bears numberless cones. Under the 
 great tent of shade the trunk and 
 branches appear— a mass of twisted 
 and contorted limbs, which extend 
 and cross in all directions. The 
 tree closely resembles the native 
 “giants” of Lebanon, and is well 
 worth a visit. 
 
 [2 J m. E. and on the border of the 
 county, stood the church of Clapton , 
 the spire of which was blown up in 
 the last century, “to save the ex- 
 pense of keeping it in repair.” It is 
 said that from the tower, “Boston 
 stump” in Lincolnshire could be 
 seen. The distance as the crow 
 flies is about 60 m. and the land is 
 a perfect level between the two 
 places. A new church of E. Eng. 
 character was built here in 1864.] 
 
 Leaving the station at Thrapston, 
 we soon reach 
 
 Thorpe Stat. The remains of the 
 castle of Thorpe Waterville are close 
 at hand, 1. ; and from this station 
 the churches of Aldwincle (All 
 Saints’, and St. Peter’s), Wadenhoe 
 and Achurch may be visited. 
 
 All that remains of the Castle , 
 besides the moats and foundations, 
 is wliat may have been a guest- 
 chamber, now converted into a 
 barn ; close by is a large house built 
 of the stone and timber taken from 
 the ruins. The family of Water- 
 
 ville held land here from the time 
 of the Domesday survey to the reign 
 of Ed. I., and the place thus received 
 its distinctive name. They built a 
 castle here ; which, in the first years 
 of the 14th centy., passed into the 
 hands of Walter Langton, Bp. of 
 Lichfield — who “erected a large 
 mansion house at Thorpe, procuring 
 for that purpose, without leave of 
 the monks, and to their detriment, a 
 vast quantity of timber from the 
 woods belonging to Pipwell Abbey.” 
 From the bishop the place passed 
 through various hands, until it came 
 to the Lovells. It remained a 
 strongly fortified place, since in 1461 
 William Paston, after telling of the 
 battle of Towton, writes, “Item, 
 Thorpe Waterfield is yielded, as 
 Spordans can tell you.” The lands 
 were at last granted to Sir Wm. 
 Cecil, Lord Burleigh, — and passed 
 by exchange to the Powys family, 
 now represented by Lord Lilford. 
 Lei and says that he saw “ the ruins 
 of the utter wall ” of the castle — by 
 that time fallen into decay. What 
 remains is probably part of Bp. 
 Langton’s work. There seem to 
 have been two stories; and there 
 was a porch (now removed) on the 
 E. side. A chimney, corbelled off 
 about 7 ft. above ground, projects as 
 a narrow strip of masonry from the 
 face of a gable wall. In the wall 
 are 2 circular openings, one on each 
 side of the chimney. A skew-bridge 
 with a ribbed soffete, also of the 14th 
 centy., spans a brook which here 
 flows onward to the Nen. This 
 bridge has been widened, but retains 
 its ancient portions. 
 
 The Nen here has divided into 2 
 channels ; both of which are crossed 
 before reaching (lj m.) Aldwincle 
 All Saints , the first of two parishes 
 (the 2nd is Aldwincle St. Peter) 
 which have in fact but one vil- 
 lage. Each has its “illustration.” 
 In the rectory of Aldwincle All 
 Saints John Dryden was born Aug. 
 9, 1631. In the old rectory of St. 
 
jSTorthants. 
 
 Boute 2 . — Aldwincle. 
 
 43 
 
 Peter’s, Thomas Fuller, the church 
 historian, was horn in 1608. “ God 
 in his providence,” he writes, in 
 his ‘Mixt Contemplations,’ ‘‘fixed 
 my nativity in a remarkable place. 
 I was born at Aldwincle, in North- 
 amptonshire, where my father was 
 the painful preacher of St. Peter’s. 
 This village was distanced one good 
 mile W. from Achurch, where Mr. 
 Brown, founder of the Brownists, 
 did dwell, whom, out of curiosity, 
 when a youth, I often visited. It 
 was likewise a mile and a half dis- 
 tant east from Levenden” (Liveden) 
 “where Francis Tresham, Esq., so 
 active in the Gunpowder Treason, 
 had a large demesne and ancient 
 habitation. My nativity may mind 
 me of moderation, whose cradle was 
 rocked betwixt two rocks. Now 
 seeing I was never such a churl as 
 to desire to eat my morsel alone, let 
 such who like my prayer join with 
 me therein : — God grant we may hit 
 the golden mean, and endeavour to 
 avoid all extremes— the fanatic Ana- 
 baptist on the one side, and the fiery 
 zeal of the Jesuit on the other.” 
 “ Aldwincle ” is the “ old corner ” 
 ( wincel , A. S.) ; and the name is 
 thoroughly appropriate to the tongue 
 of land here formed by a deep bend 
 of the Nen. The two churches are 
 due to the existence of two great pro- 
 perties, one belonging to the Abbey 
 of Peterborough, the other to a suc- 
 cession of lay lords, who held under 
 the barony of Wardon, and who, 
 until the reign of Ed. II., were 
 named from the place Be Aldwincle. 
 The Church of All Saints is E. Eng. 
 (main arcade S. side, chancel arch, 
 and E. window, with plate tracery) 
 and early Dec. (N. side of main 
 arcade and clerestory). Perp. win- 
 dows have been inserted in the aisles. 
 The W. tower is Perp. and has un- 
 usually large louvre lights in the 
 upper stage. On the S. side of the 
 chancel is a Perp. chantry — erected 
 in 1489 by “ Wm. Chambre and 
 Eliz. his wife — formerly wife of 
 
 Wm. Aldwincle.” It was dissolved 
 within 60 years of its foundation. 
 On the N. side is a Dec. vestry — a 
 very picturesque addition. The 
 brass of “ Wm. Aldewyncle,” d. 1463, 
 is in the chancel; and on the wall 
 of the N. aisle is a brass for “ John 
 Pykering, physitian,” died 1659. He 
 was great uncle to Dryden, and 
 brother to the poet’s grandfather, 
 Henry Pickering, rector of the church 
 — who is buried m the ch.-yd. under 
 an altar-tomb. There is another 
 such tomb for Lucy Pickering, his 
 daughter — aunt of the poet. The 
 rectory is on the N. side of the 
 church. It is a long low house, 
 rather picturesque, and having 
 portions which are certainly older 
 than Dryden’s time. A window 
 over the door is said to have lighted 
 the room in which John Dryden 
 was born ; but the room itself has 
 been lessened and altered. The 
 poet was born here in 1631 — his 
 grandfather having been rector 40 
 years, when he died in 1637. The 
 date on his tomb has been misread 
 by Bridges and others, whose error 
 gave some difficulty to Sir Walter 
 Scott. (Bridges makes Henry Pick- 
 ering rector for only 10 yrs., and 
 die in 1657. The difficulty w~as 
 therefore to understand how Dryden 
 came to be born here sixteen years 
 before his grandfather’s appointment. 
 The true reading has been cleared 
 by the Rev. H. Ward, rector of St. 
 Peter’s — and is “forty” instead of 
 10, and 1637 (the year of death) 
 instead of 1657. There is no register 
 here older than 1650. Hence the 
 direct proof of Dryden’s birth at the 
 rectory is not forthcoming.) 
 
 The Church of Aldwincle St. Peter 
 has one of the most graceful towers 
 with broach spire to be found in the 
 county. It is late Dec. (circ. 1373) 
 of the same date as the chancel, 
 which has flamboyant windows. 
 An exterior string-course has gro- 
 tesque heads — besides birds — and 
 small animals clinging feet upwards 
 
44 
 
 Route 2 .— Northampton to Peterborough. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 to it. The nave is E. Eng. — the 
 sculpture of each cap. being different. 
 In the east window are remains of 
 very good stained glass, including 
 portraits of two rectors — one of 
 w T kom, William de Luffwick (for 
 whose “life” the inscription desires 
 prayer), probably assisted in rebuild- 
 ing the chancel. In one of the S. 
 windows are figs, of St. George and 
 St. Christopher, with a bordure show- 
 ing a white dog and a hare alter- 
 nately. The white dog probably 
 refers to the Lovels (“ Lovel the 
 dog”) who at one time were con- 
 nected with the manor. There is a 
 very beautiful coped tomb, without 
 inscription, in the angle formed by 
 the N. aisle and the tower. It is of 
 late Dec. character. On the S. wall 
 of the chancel is the monument of 
 Margaret Davenant, grandmother 
 of Thomas Fuller. The baptism of 
 Fuller is entered in the register in 
 his father’s writing, June 19, 1608. 
 Of the old rectory in which he was 
 born, nothing remains but the well. 
 The house, which is described as 
 having been a very curious one, was 
 pulled down late in the last century. 
 
 The village of the Aldwincles, 
 with fine trees scattered among the 
 grey stone houses, is full of pictur- 
 esque “bits;” and the whole of this 
 country, especially on a broken day, 
 when the lights are fleeting and well 
 cast, is not unattractive. 1J in. N. 
 is Wadenhoe on high ground, as the 
 name indicates. The “ Castle Close ” 
 near the church, shows remains of 
 foundations, and a mound which may 
 be that of an English “strength” be- 
 fore the Conquest. The manor was 
 long held by the Le Stranges. The 
 greater part of the ch. has been re- 
 built. Adjoining is Wadenhoe House 
 (Mrs. Ward Hunt), with some good 
 trees about it. There is here only 
 a foot-bridge over the Nen; and 
 the tourist, if not a pedestrian, 
 must proceed 1 j m. farther to Tilton. 
 The road commands a really fine 
 view across the river, which is here 
 
 bordered on the rt. bank by deep 
 woods called the “ Lynches,” belong- 
 ing to Lord Lilford. At the entrance 
 of Pilton is an enormous walnut- 
 tree; and in the village a remarkable 
 cottage, built with (apparently) E. 
 Eng. fragments, said to have been 
 brought from the chapel of Thorpe 
 Waterville. The church is E. Eng., 
 with a low broach spire. In this 
 church were married, Oct. 21, 1630, 
 Erasmus Dryden and Mary Picker- 
 ing, parents of the poet. (The name 
 is spelt Drey don in the register which 
 records this marriage.) The rectory 
 (once the manor-house) is a most 
 picturesque Elizabethan house with 
 oak staircase and panelled drawing- 
 room. Near it is another very large 
 walnut-tree. ' 
 
 A bridge crosses the river below 
 Pilton; and the views in either di- 
 rection, with woods, rich meadows, 
 and deep beds of waterflags along 
 the stream, are very beautiful. On 
 the rt. bank, above the bridge, is 
 Lilford (Lord Lilford) — see post ; and 
 pleasant, tree-bordered roads iead us 
 back to Achurch , nearly opposite 
 Wadenhoe. The trees, mostly elms, 
 form avenues along the roads, and 
 were planted, inside the hedges, 
 when the country here was enclosed, 
 about 1773. 
 
 Achurch (Asechirce in Domesday, 
 and often called Thorpe Achurch) 
 has a good church, with an E. 
 Eng. tower and spire, and a Dec. 
 (geometrical) chancel. It has been 
 well restored by Slater. There is a 
 monument (removed from the old 
 church of Lilford) for Sir Thomas 
 Powys, one of the Judges of the 
 Queen’s Bench, died 1719; fine in its 
 way, a reclining figure, with Ke- 
 ligion and Eloquence on either side. 
 This was the first Powys owner of 
 Lilford. The long inscription was 
 composed by Matthew Prior. A very 
 large and fine ash-tree grows on the 
 N. side of the church. (Northamp- 
 tonshire ash timber is famous, and 
 still commands large prices. At the 
 
NoBTHANTSi 
 
 Boute 2 . — Barnwell : the Castle. 
 
 45 
 
 beginning of the last centy. 100 ash- 
 trees sold for 1500Z.) The rectory 
 dates from 1633. Robert Brown, 
 rector here through the early part 
 of the 17th centy., was the founder 
 of the Brownists, and “ used to say ” 
 that there was “ no church in Eng- 
 land but his, and that was a-cliurch.” 
 Brown was related to the Lord Trea- 
 surer Burleigh, who gave him this 
 living ; but, violent enthusiast as he 
 was, his position here did not pre- 
 vent him from constantly opposing 
 the law, and he boasted that he had 
 been committed to 32 prisons, in 
 some of which he “ could not see his 
 hand at noonday.” He died when 
 upwards of 80, in 1630, and in 
 Northampton gaol, to which he had 
 been committed for an assault on a 
 constable. 
 
 1 m. S. of Achurch we regain the 
 station at Thorpe Water ville. The 
 next is 
 
 Barnwell Stat. (1§ m. west is Lil- 
 ford Park. Close at hand, rt., are the 
 Barnwell Churches, and the ruins of 
 the Castle, worth visiting. The pe- 
 destrian may find his way from this 
 station to the very interesting church 
 of Polebrook , about 1 J m. N.E. There 
 is a pleasant path across fields to 
 which the stranger will be directed 
 in the village of Barnwell.) 
 
 (a) Lilford Park (Lord Lilford ; 
 the present is the 4th Baron) is a 
 fine Charles I. mansion, built by the 
 family of Elmes in 1635, much altered 
 by Sir Thomas Powys, who became 
 owner of the manor in 1711. His 
 descendant was created Baron Lil- 
 ford in 1797. The house stands high, 
 among thick and noble woods, and is 
 approached on all sides by very fine 
 avenues of elm. There are terraced 
 gardens ; besides aviaries and mena- 
 geries containing some rare and in- 
 teresting birds and animals, collected 
 and cared for by the present Lord 
 Lilford. Lilford Church contained 
 many monuments of the Elmeses, 
 who obtained the manor by mar- 
 
 riage early in the reign of Henry 
 VII. The great feature of Lilford 
 and its neighbourhood is the quan- 
 tity of wood, planted for the most 
 part about 1773, in emulation of the 
 Boughton woods and avenues (see 
 Rte. 10), due to Duke John “the 
 Planter,” who died in 1749. 
 
 (b) Barnwell , like many other 
 places in Northamptonshire, con- 
 tained two great manors, which 
 formed two distinct parishes, Barn- 
 well St. Andrew, and B. All Saints. 
 Both came at last into the posses- 
 sion of the Montagues, and are now 
 united, although each has its church. 
 Barnwell St. Andrew (nearest to the 
 station) belonged to the Abbot of 
 Ramsey at the time of the Domes- 
 day survey, and was formerly called 
 B. Le Moyne, from a family so named 
 who held the manor in fee under 
 the Abbot. One of these Le Moynes, 
 Berenger, built a castle here about 
 1264; and on inquiry being made 
 10 years later by Ed. I. by what 
 warrant he had built it, he sold or 
 ceded his whole right in castle and 
 manor to the Abbot from whom he 
 had held them. Berenger, never- 
 theless, seems to have been no friend 
 to the monks; and the spoliations 
 they endured from him are duly 
 recorded by a contemporary. The 
 Abbot retained the castle until the 
 Dissolution, when it was sold to Sir 
 Edward Montague about 1540. “At 
 this village, ”says Leland, “ remain 
 the 4 strong towres, part of Beren- 
 garius Castle, after Tonging to Ram- 
 say Abbey, and now to Monteacute. 
 Within the mines of this castel is a 
 meane house for a fermar.” Sir Ed- 
 ward Montague is said to have “ re- 
 paired and beautified” the castle; 
 but it soon fell into ruin, and be- 
 came the chief stone quarry of the 
 neighbourhood. 
 
 The Castle may first be visited. 
 The keys admitting to the quad- 
 rangle will be found at the very 
 picturesque farm-house, with gables 
 and tall chimneys, standing on one 
 
46 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Route 2 . — Northampton to Peterborough . 
 
 side of a green, across which the 
 castle itself is seen. Another stretch 
 of gabled building, serving as stables 
 and offices, closes in the green on 
 the N. House and stables may have 
 been the work of Sir Edward Mon- 
 tague, the 4 ‘ beautify er,” but they 
 have been much altered at later 
 periods. Fine old trees are scat- 
 tered over the adjoining meadows, 
 and the sketcher may here find many 
 subjects for his pencil. The castle 
 itself consists of a great quadrangle, 
 with trefoil -shaped towers at the 
 angles, and an entrance gateway be- 
 tween flanking towers, which are 
 rounded. The gateway has two 
 pointed arches, and close to the 
 outer arch is the slit for the port- 
 cullis. There was a chamber over 
 the gate, and one opening from it 
 on either side, into the round towers. 
 Walls and towers seem to have kept 
 their full height, and are lofty. The 
 whole may very well be the work of 
 Berenger le Moyne. The interior 
 of the area is planted with fruit- 
 trees. 
 
 The Ch. of Barnwell St. Andreic 
 has been restored (1873). The tower 
 is E. Eng. below, Dec. in the upper- 
 most stage, with a Dec. spire. The 
 S. porch is E. Eng., the N. door rich 
 Dec. The aisle windows also are 
 Dec., and there are 3 Dec. sedilia at 
 the end of the N. aisle. In the chan- 
 cel was the coloured bust of Nicholas 
 Latham , rector, who died in 1620, 
 and is to be commemorated for his 
 wide-spread charities. (This bust 
 has been removed into the adjoin- 
 ing sacristy.) The inscription re- 
 cords that, though 44 parson of 
 this church onlie by the space of 
 fiftie and one yeares, and having 
 noe other dignitie or lands or goods 
 left him by his auncestors.” he 
 44 builded 2 hospitals,” one in Barn- 
 well for 14 poor people, and one in 
 Oundle for 18 widows; — he founded 
 5 free schools — in Barnwell, Oundle, 
 Hemington, Weekley, and Brigstock; 
 — ‘‘gave many other charitable gifts,” 
 
 as 2 exhibitions at Cambridge, 44 re- 
 payr of bridges and highways,” and 
 yearly clothing to 45 poor children, 
 “‘all which doe amount to the sum of 
 300L by the year for ever.” He was 
 married, and had one son, “which 
 died an infant.” The present annual 
 value of this rectory, it is worth 
 adding, is not more than 240Z. “Par- 
 son” Lathom, as he is called, was 
 the son of John Latliom, keeper of 
 “ Brigstock great park.” His alms- 
 house and school-house here remain 
 near the church. 
 
 The church of Barnwell All Saints, 
 or King’s Barnwell, J m. up the 
 stream, has disappeared, with the 
 exception of the chancel, which is 
 retained as a burying-place for that 
 branch of the Montagues represented 
 by the Earls of Sandwich. There 
 are here some long inscriptions, 
 recording Montague descents and 
 alliances, including one by the in- 
 defatigable Mrs. Creed, the cousin 
 of Dryden. She had a house here, 
 where her daughter died. There 
 are few churches in this neighbour- 
 hood which could not at one time 
 boast of a 44 painted cloth,” a 44 table 
 of the Commandments,” or a monu- 
 ment, designed and painted by Mrs. 
 Creed. 
 
 In the bank below the ch.-yd. are 
 many wells, which probably gave 
 name to the parish. A gold ring 
 with raised medallions, one of which 
 displays an abbot in his robes, was 
 found here in 1844. 
 
 (c) Bolebrooh Church , which the 
 ecclesiologist should see, is of much 
 interest. There was here at first a 
 late Norman church. An E. Eng. 
 tower and spire were added on the 
 S. side, and in connection with this, 
 the S. arcade was altered, and E. 
 Eng. transepts and a chancel built. 
 The Norm, arch into the choir, and 
 the N. arcade were left. The E. 
 Eng. work is throughout very beau- 
 tiful. 
 
 The N. arcade of nave has broad, 
 
Northants. 
 
 Houle 2 . — Oundle. 
 
 47 
 
 massive piers, with round (Trans.- 
 Norm.) arches. The volute on the 
 caps, of the piers indicates their late 
 period. The E. Eng, arcade opposite 
 is far loftier. The cap. of the central 
 pier is enriched with leafage — and 
 the lofty arches are round-headed — an 
 adaptation to the Norm, work, N. An 
 E. Eng. arch opens into the tower, 
 at the S.W. end of the aisle. The 
 S. transept is much shallower than 
 that N., and has an E. Eng. double 
 piscina in the S. wall. The N. tran- 
 sept has a very beautiful E. Eng, 
 wall arcade, with detached shafts.' 
 There are six arches on the W. side, 
 three on the N. The mouldings, and 
 the ornaments at the crown of the 
 arches, chiefly foliage, deserve care- 
 ful attention. There is an aumbrie 
 at the end of the arcade on the N. 
 side, a Dec. N. window, aud 2 very 
 good Dec. windows, inserted in E. 
 Eng. openings, on the east. The 
 view across the nave from this tran- 
 sept is especially striking. The E. 
 window is E. Eng., and a piscina in 
 the chancel is figured by Eickman. 
 The tracery of the great W. window 
 was removed by the singers in law- 
 less days, which are happily passed. 
 The gallery which they occupied has 
 disappeared in its turn, and the ch. 
 has been well restored. 
 
 Polebrook, which gives name to 
 the hundred, stands on a small 
 stream flowing into the Nen. The 
 manor, after passing through various 
 hands, came, early in the reign of 
 Henry III., into those of Eobert 
 Fleming, who conveyed it, together 
 with the advowson of the rectory, 
 to John de Caleto, Abbot of Peter- 
 borough (he died in 1262, 46th 
 Hen. III.). The manor henceforth 
 remained in the hands of Peter- 
 borough Abbey until the Dissolu- 
 tion; and there can be little doubt 
 but that the E. Eng. work in the 
 ch. is due to that great monastery, 
 and was begun soon after Polebrook 
 became the property of the Abbot 
 (who bestowed it on the community.) 
 
 Leaving Barnwell stat., and cross- 
 ing a deep bend of the Nen, we 
 reach 
 
 Oundle Station ; the lofty spire of 
 the church having been for some 
 time conspicuous, 1. ; and rt., as we 
 reach the stat., is the Abbot's Mill , 
 formerly belonging to the monastery 
 of Peterborougii. The stat. is J m. 
 from the town, and a long and ancient 
 bridge over the Nen is crossed on the 
 way. Oundle — the name has been 
 interpreted as “ Avon dale"’ and 
 “Nen” itself is said to be a corrup- 
 tionof “ Avon,” but very questionably 
 (Inn: the Talbot, a Jacobsean house, 
 comfortable : there is a tradition 
 that a staircase and some of the 
 stonework were brought from Fo- 
 theringhay) (Pop. in 1871,2868) — is 
 one of the pleasantest towns in 
 Northamptonshire, with broad, clean 
 streets, picturesque oriel windows, 
 and a general air of antiquity. 
 It was undoubtedly a Eoman site. 
 Eoman relics of various kinds have 
 been found in every part of the 
 town (a fragment of a cup, nut 
 Samian, with a Bacchanalian pro- 
 cession, is figured in Smith’s ‘Coll. 
 Antiq.’ It was found in the ch.-yd.), 
 and in excavating for the rly. stat., 
 many Eoman coins were discovered, 
 ranging from those of Claudius to 
 the latest period. Oundle was a 
 very early possession of the Peter- 
 borough monastery, founded by Oswi 
 K. of Northumbria, and Peada, son 
 of Penda of Mercia, in 655. It is 
 uncertain whether the place had 
 already become attached to Peter- 
 borough when Wilfrith of Northum- 
 bria established a small monastery 
 at Oundle, in which he died in 709 
 (“ Defunctus est autem in monas- 
 terio suo, quod habebat in provincia 
 Undalum sub regimine Oudualdi 
 abbatis.” — Bede, ‘H. E.’ v. 19. In the 
 ‘ Sax. Chr.’ the name is also written 
 “Undalum”); but the Eoman site 
 and ruins may have induced him to 
 build here. His body was conveyed 
 
48 
 
 'Route 2. — Oundle : Church and School .' 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 hence to Ripon. The Church re- 
 mained in the possession of Peter- 
 borough until the Dissolution, and 
 it is to that monastery that the 
 construction of the fabric must be 
 assigned. It is built of the local 
 oolite, very full of shells. The ch. 
 has been restored (1864) under Scott 1 s 
 direction, and the spire, the date 
 on which, 1634, probably marks a 
 former rebuilding, having become 
 unsafe, has been taken down as far 
 as the uppermost lights, and rebuilt 
 (1874). The nave and aisles are E. 
 Eng., with Dec. windows inserted, and 
 a Dec. clerestory. The transepts and 
 chancel are early Dec., the tower 
 and fine S. porch Perp. In the 
 nave remark the very fine piers and 
 caps., which have the nail-head orna- 
 ment, and overhang very deeply. 
 The bases are high, and the piers 
 single and round, of a French rather 
 than an English type (comp. Tich- 
 marsh, ante). The rough stone- work, 
 in accordance with a fashion among 
 “ restorers ” not greatly to be com- 
 mended, has been left exposed in 
 nave and transepts. In the chancel 
 it is plastered. There is a very good 
 east window by Clayton and Bell; 
 and a reredos of incised alabaster, 
 the subject being the Last Supper. 
 The organ, by Walker , is on the N. 
 side. In the N. transept is another 
 window by Clayton and Bell , in- 
 serted by the Groceis’ Company, 
 which is connected with Laxton’s 
 School here (see post). There are 
 remains of ancient colouring, a good 
 pattern in red, on the arch opening 
 to the S. aisle from the chancel. 
 The roofs throughout are ancient, 
 but not the original ones. The pul- 
 pit, dating late in the 14th centy., 
 deserves special attention. The 
 richly decorated panels are coloured 
 in black and red ; and gold stars of 
 metal are fixed on the black ground. 
 There is a crypt with groined roof 
 under the S. transept. The church 
 contains no monuments of import- 
 ance. The tower , late Perp., has 
 
 very tall windows with flamboyant 
 tracery in the belfry stage, and a 
 picturesque, open battlement. The 
 south porch, with a parvise, the 
 front of which has 3 niches be- 
 tween the windows, and which has 
 excellent carving — sprays of oak and 
 other foliage — on the stone vaulting, 
 is also late Perp., and according to 
 Leland, was the work of “one Robert 
 Viate (Wyatt), a marchaunt of the 
 towne, and Johan his wife. They 
 made also on the S. side of that 
 chirche yarde a praty almose house 
 of squarid stone, and a goodly large 
 haule over it for the bretherhodde 
 of the chirch. The Scripture in 
 brasse on the almose house doore 
 berith the date . . . 1485.” This 
 “ praty Almose house ” has been re- 
 built by Slater , together with Lax- 
 ton's Grammar School , which adjoins 
 it. This school was founded by Sir 
 William Laxton, a native of Oundle, 
 and “bred a grocer” in London; 
 where he became Lord Mayor in 
 1544. (He died in 1556.) There is 
 an alms-house attached; and over 
 the entrance are the lines — 
 
 “ UndellaB natus, Londini parta labore 
 
 Laxtonus posuitsenibus puerisq. levamen.” 
 
 It is asserted that “ Zion Chapel,” 
 in West Street, occupies the site of 
 Wilfrith’s Monastery. This is on 
 the highest part of the ridge, over- 
 looking the river, but there is no 
 authority whatever for determining 
 the site of that venerable house, 
 which must have been one of the 
 earliest centres of Christianity among 
 the Middle Angles. Oundle was the 
 birthplace, in the reign of El z , of 
 a fierce enthusiast named William 
 Hacket, who attempted to play the 
 part of John of Leyden, and pro- 
 claimed himself the Messiah. He 
 had two attendants, whom he called 
 his prophets of mercy and of judg- 
 ment. All three were apprehended 
 in London, and Hacket was hanged 
 in Cheapside in 1591. 
 
Northants. 
 
 Route 2 . — Lyveden. 
 
 49 
 
 The northern portion of North- 
 amptonshire, which retains much of 
 its ancient forest character, is with- 
 out railways; and Oundle will be 
 found the best centre from which to 
 make one or two excursions of in- 
 terest. One round may be to the 
 “ New and Old buildings ” at Lyve- 
 den ; thence to Brigstock and Farm- 
 ing-woods ; returning to Oundle by 
 Benefield. A second expedition may 
 embrace Cotter stock and Tansor , the 
 great oaks of Morhay Lawn , Wood- 
 newton, Apethorpe , and Kingscliffe, 
 from which place the Wansford stat. 
 on the L. & N. W. Rly. may be 
 reached, or the return may be made 
 to Oundle. Fotheringhay is 4 m. 
 N. of Oundle, and may be visited 
 thence; but it is easily reached 
 from the Elton station on the rly. 
 (See post.) 
 
 (a) The Lyveden buildings are 
 about 5 m. S.W. of Oundle and 
 well deserve a visit. Both the “old 
 build ” and the “new build” as 
 they are locally called) were the 
 work (the first probably, the second 
 certainly) of Sir Thomas Tresham, 
 father of Francis Tresham, famous 
 for his connection with the ■“ Gun- 
 powder Plot.” The Treshams, whose 
 chief Northamptonshire property was 
 at Rushton near Kettering (see Rte. 
 12), acquired Lyveden in the reign 
 of Hen. VI. Sir Thomas, the builder 
 here, was by birth a Protestant, and 
 was knighted by Q. Eliz. at her 
 famous visit to Kenilworth in 1577. 
 Within 3 years of that date, after 
 the missionary priests came into 
 England, he was converted by Cam- 
 pian, and reconciled to the Church of 
 Rome. Thenceforward he suffered 
 much on account of his belief, being 
 heavily fined and repeatedly im- 
 prisoned as a ‘‘Popish recusant,” 
 that is, as one of those who refused 
 to attend the Protestant worship. 
 Before the death of Eliz., much en- 
 couragement had been secretly given 
 by James to the Romanists, in order 
 
 [ Nortliants , &c .[ ] 
 
 to gain their support, and consider- 
 able expectations had certainly been 
 raised in the mind of Sir Thomas 
 Tresham. He was one of the first, 
 at no little personal risk, to pro* 
 claim James at Northampton; and 
 his son Francis (afterwards the con- 
 spirator), with his brother Lewis and 
 their brother-in-law, Lord Monteagle 
 (to whom the well-known letter was 
 written), were very active on the 
 same occasion in supporting the E. 
 of Salisbury in London. Within 3 
 months after the arrival of James 
 in England, Sir Thomas Tresham, 
 with other Romanists, w 7 as invited 
 to court, and was assured that it 
 was the intention of the king to 
 allow greater freedom in the exer- 
 cise of religious worship, and espe- 
 cially to relieve all Romanists from 
 the burden of the fines imposed by 
 the statute of Eliz. Accordingly, 
 the fines for recusancy, which in the 
 last year of Eliz.’s reign amounted 
 to 10,000Z., were reduced to 300Z. in 
 the first of James. It thus appears 
 that Sir Thomas Tresham was rea- 
 sonably expecting much indulgence 
 and relaxation in the severe laws 
 “against harbouring of Popish priests 
 and professors ; ” and it was, no doubt, 
 with this expectation that he began 
 the “ new build” which, it has been 
 conjectured, was intended for a re- 
 ligious house, and is at any rate 
 covered with symbols and inscrip- 
 tions, such as in the days of Elizabeth 
 would hardly have been tolerated. 
 It stands on high ground, in an open 
 space round which woods close up 
 on almost every side. The plan is 
 that of a Greek cross. The entrance 
 was on the N. side, immediately op- 
 posite the arm which contained the 
 staircase ; and the archways bear on 
 their keystones the arms of Tresham 
 (the founder), and of his wife, a 
 Throckmorton. The rooms in the 
 interior were numerous, and there 
 are large and deep oriel windows at 
 the termination of each limb of the 
 cross. But by far the most remark - 
 
 D 
 
50 
 
 Route 2 . — Lyveden. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 able features of the building are the 
 sculptures and inscriptions, which 
 run, the former above the second 
 story, the latter above the third. 
 The sculptures are in roundels, and 
 represent the emblems of Our Lord’s 
 Passion and Crucifixion, — the purse, 
 the lantliorn, torches, spear, and 
 sword; the cross, ladder, hammer, 
 and nails ; the seamless garment 
 and dice ; the crowing cock and the 
 scourges. There are also the X.P. 
 within a wreath, on the upper part 
 of which is a T. for Tresliam, and 
 I.H.S. with a cross, and “Esto mihi” 
 round the border. These subjects 
 are repeated so as to encircle the 
 whole building, and have been exe- 
 cuted with much care. Pound the 
 uppermost story are (or were — they 
 have been much ruined and defaced) 
 the following sentences in capitals: 
 — “Jesus miirnii salus + Gaude 
 mater Yirgo Maria + Verbum autem 
 crucis pereuntibus quidem stultitia 
 est + Jesu beatus venter qui te 
 portavit + Maria mater virgo sponsa 
 innupta + Benedixit tibi Deus in 
 mternum Maria + Mihi autem absit 
 gloriari nisi in cruce Domini nostri.” 
 Pound the lowest story are nu- 
 merous shields for arms, some of 
 which are unfinished, and others 
 have their outlines barely traced. 
 All this, together with the general 
 condition of the building, indicates 
 that the work was abandoned in 
 haste ; and, according to Bridges, it 
 was never roofed in. It was pro- 
 bably begun by Sir Thomas Tres- 
 ham immediately on the accession 
 of James. There is no reason for 
 believing that he had any know- 
 ledge whatever of the plot in which 
 his son was involved ; and he died in 
 1605. His eldest son Francis, who 
 succeeded him, was in the Tower 
 within two months of his father’s 
 death, and died there before the 
 end of a third month. Rushton 
 w 7 as confiscated, but Lyveden was 
 allowed to pass to the next brother 
 Lewis, who had no care to finish the 
 
 “new build,” and it sank into its 
 present condition, a ruin whose 
 desolate chambers are lined with 
 wild plants and low elder-bushes. 
 Bridges asserts that “when Major 
 Butler with a detachment of the 
 Parliament forces was in these 
 parts, he was not able to demolish 
 this house, but he caused the timber 
 to be sawed out of the walls, and, 
 carrying it to Oundle, built with 
 it that house which is now Major 
 Creed’s.” 
 
 Sir Thomas Tresham was a zealous 
 architect. “Hard to say,” writes 
 Fuller, “whether greater his de- 
 light, or skill in buildings, though 
 more forward in beginning, than 
 fortunate in finishing, his fabricks.” 
 Like the “new build,” he left a 
 market house at Rothwell (the town 
 near his house of Pushton) un- 
 finished, but with a design which 
 resembles that of the Lyveden build- 
 ing; and at Rushton itself the re- 
 markable triangular lodge remains, 
 to bear witness to the same love of 
 emblematical sculpture on the part 
 of the designer, as is shown here. 
 (See Rte. 12). 
 
 The old building at Lyveden lies 
 close under the new, and is now a 
 substantial and picturesque farm- 
 house. Much of it seems to be Eliza- 
 bethan; and, as Sir Thomas suc- 
 ceeded to all this property early in 
 that reign, it is probably his work. 
 In the house is a fine staircase, re- 
 sembling that in the present rectory 
 at Pilton, which formerly was the 
 manor-house, and belonged to an- 
 other branch of the Treshams (see 
 ante). This old building displays 
 no sign of the peculiar style which 
 at a later period was affected by Sir 
 Thomas. Leland mentions “ parte of 
 an auncient manor place, and godely 
 medows aboute it,” as existing at 
 Lyveden when he visited it, and there 
 still remain, above the old building, 
 mounds and terraces, with large 
 moats or fish-tanks, which may mark 
 the site of such a “manor,” con- 
 
Northants. 
 
 Route 2 . — Brigstoch — Cotter stock . 
 
 51 
 
 verted in later days into a “plea- 
 saunce.” The lordship of Lyveden 
 (the termination “den” indicates its 
 position in the midst of the forest of 
 Rockingham), extended into several 
 parishes — Brig stock, Benefield, the 
 Aldwincles, and Pilton, — and indeed 
 may have b»en in a certain sense 
 extra-parochial, as having been at 
 first a grant or a settlement within 
 the royal forest. 
 
 2 m. E. of Lyveden is the village 
 of Brigstoch (so named from a bridge 
 over the Harper’s Brook, which runs 
 through it), a manor in the heart of 
 the old forest, where the very early 
 work in the Church , restored by 
 Slater and Carpenter, should attract 
 the antiquary. This has been called 
 Saxon, and the greater part of the 
 building has been considered to be 
 earlier than the Conquest. There is 
 a rude triangular-headed doorway, 
 and a round-headed stilted arch into 
 the chancel. The whole deserves 
 careful examination. The church was 
 given byHen. I. to Cirencester Abbey. 
 In the parish, and a short distance 
 N. of the village, is Farmingwoods 
 (Lord Lyveden), with some fine re- 
 mains of ancient wood about it. 
 The house contains a few good pic- 
 tures, including portraits by Sir 
 Joshua Reynolds. About \ m. W. on 
 the boundary of the parish is a 
 stone with the inscription, “ Here in 
 this plaes stood Bocase Tree,” — a 
 boundary of the forest. The word 
 “ Bocase ” has not been explained. 
 
 The return to Oundle may be by 
 Benefield , where the church was re- 
 built in 1847 (except the chancel). 
 It is elaborately decorated, and there 
 is much stained glass (architect, 
 Derrick of Oxford). On high 
 ground adjoining are the moats and 
 foundations of a small castle, which 
 was held by Nicholas of Bassing- 
 bourne in the reign of Henry III. 
 The great “lawn” of Benefield, 
 and of those open spaces within the 
 forest, of which Morhay (see post) is 
 
 now the best example, was, says 
 Leland, “ spatious and faire to 
 course in.” It was separated from 
 the parish, to which it did not really 
 belong, although named from it. 
 
 (b). Morhay Lawn may be the 
 main object of a second expedition, 
 which may be continued to K>ngs- 
 cliffe. 
 
 The road from Oundle follows the 
 1. bank of the river, and at 2 m. 
 reaches Cotterstock ; where the 
 church is worth a visit, but where 
 the chief interest lies in Dry den’s 
 associations with the place. Cotter- 
 stock Hall (Marquis of Huntly) was 
 the house of his cousin, Mrs. Steward, 
 daughter of Mrs. Creed, of Ticli- 
 marsh, the painter of so many church 
 decorations and monuments, and the 
 daughter of Sir Gilbert Pickering. 
 Mrs. Steward was herself an artist ; 
 and Malone asserts that “ the hall of 
 Cotterstock House was painted in 
 fresco by her, in a very masterly 
 style, and she drew several portraits 
 of her friends in Northamptonshire.” 
 John Hryden frequently visited her 
 at this place ; and Bridges tells us* 
 that he wrote his ‘ Fables ’ here, 
 and spent the last two summers of 
 his life at Cotterstock. (He died 
 May 1, 1700). This, however, is not 
 true. He was busy with the * Fables ’ 
 throughout 1698 and 1699, and al- 
 though he visited Cotterstock in the 
 summer of either year, it is clear, 
 from the dates of his letters, that 
 neither of these visits exceeded three 
 weeks or a month. He describes 
 himself at other times as still 
 drudging at a book of Miscellanyes ” 
 Xthe Fables), “ which I hope will be 
 well enough;” and if fie did any- 
 thing to them in the country, it can 
 only have been in the way of re- 
 touching. “ If your house be often 
 so molested,” he writes to Mrs. 
 Steward, referring to his own visits, 
 “you will have reason to be weary 
 of it before the ending of the year; 
 and wish Cotttrstock were planted 
 
 D 2 
 
52 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Route 2 . — Northampton to Peterborough . 
 
 “ in a desart,an hundred miles off from 
 any poet.” “ Marrow puddings ” 
 and “chines of honest bacon” were 
 sent by Mrs. Steward to the poet in 
 London; and of the few letters of 
 Dry den which exist, several were 
 written to his cousins here. The 
 picturesque house adjoins the road, 
 from which a wide avenue opens to 
 the entrance. It is, perhaps, of 
 Tudor date, but has been much 
 altered and changed, and Mrs. 
 Steward's frescoes no longer decorate 
 the hall. The largely developed 
 chancel of Cotterstock Church is 
 due to the college (for a provost 
 and 13 chaplains) founded here in 
 1337, the 11th year of Ed. III., by 
 John Giffard, Canon of York. He 
 endowed his new foundation with 
 the manor of Cotterstock, the ad- 
 vowson of the church, mills and 
 fisheries on the Nen, and some ad- 
 ditional land. The College had 
 liberty to appropriate the church to 
 themselves ; and accordingly the 
 large chancel was built soon after 
 the new foundation, and is (curvi- 
 linear) Dec. The rest of the church 
 is somewhat earlier, — the tower, E. 
 Eng., c;rc. 1240, with very beautiful 
 lights in the belfry stage (one is 
 figured in the 4 Glossary ’). The 
 nave is of the same date. In the 
 chancel is a trass for Robert Wyn- 
 tryngham, canon of Lincoln, and 
 Provost of Cotterstock, d. 1420. He 
 wears a cope. 
 
 Across the river is Tansor , where 
 the Church is remarkable for a very 
 long nave, and a most diminutive 
 chancel. The church was originally 
 Norman, and in the E. Eng. period 
 it would seem that the Norm, chancel 
 was thrown into the nave, which 
 was partly rebuilt, but with old 
 materials. The existing short chan- 
 cel was then added, together with a 
 W. tower. “ The internal aspect of 
 the church is most singular, from the 
 great variety and irregularity of the 
 pillars and arches of its long nave,” ] 
 
 which has a very perceptible ascent 
 in the pavement toward the E., be- 
 sides a slope at nearly an equal 
 angle toward the S. There are 6 
 arches N. and 5 S. The piers 
 throughout, both of Norm, and of 
 later date, are tall columns, the 
 Norman being far lighter than is 
 usual in that style. The whole of 
 the arches and their soffetes are 
 covered with coloured decorations, 
 imitated from ancient ones discovered 
 on a removal of whitewash. There 
 are some rude stalls among the sit- 
 tings in the nave, which may have 
 belonged to an older arrangement of 
 the chancel, when (as is probable) it 
 extended into the nave. Those at 
 present in the chancel are much 
 better, and are said to have come 
 from Fotheringhay (see Gent. Mag., 
 Oct. 1861). There is a brass for 
 John Colt, rector, d. 1440. 
 
 [A very interesting Church , and 
 one well deserving a visit, is that 
 of Warmington, 1J m. E. It is 
 throughout E. Eng. with the ori- 
 ginal nave roof, groined in wood. 
 There is a western tower with spire. 
 The portal has 4 rows of shafts, 
 and is richly ornamented with dog- 
 tooth and open flowers. The belfry 
 lights are much ornamented, and the 
 broach spire has 3 rows of spire 
 lights, surmounted by very elegant 
 crosses. The windows of the S. 
 aisle are triplets, — those of the N. 
 are couplets of lancets, with enrich- 
 ment above. The wooden groining 
 of the nave (of 5 bays) starts from 
 stone springers. The ribs spring 
 from small shafts, terminating in 
 capitals of exquisite foliage, which 
 are supported on corbels, represent- 
 ing for the most part priests and 
 bishops. Similar shafts, with equally 
 beautiful foliage, support the second 
 order of mouldings of the chancel 
 arch, of which the capitals alone 
 remain. The flatness of the roofs, 
 which seem of the original pitch, 
 
 I deserves especial notice. The 
 
Northants. Route 2. — Wood Newton — Apethorpe . 
 
 53 
 
 adoption of wooden groining, instead 
 of stone, which appears to have been 
 at first intended, was perhaps sug- 
 gested by an apparent weakness of 
 the walls. Warmington was, before 
 the Conquest, in the hands of the 
 “ abbot and convent ” of Peter- 
 borough, and remained with them 
 until the Dissolution. This church, 
 like that of Polebrook and many 
 others, sufficiently indicates the care 
 and cost bestowed on their outlying 
 manors by that great abbey.] 
 
 A good distant view of the tower 
 and lanthorn of Fotheringhay 
 church (see post), one of the great 
 landmarks of this district, opens 
 rt. across the Nen, and above the 
 masses of trees which encircle it, 
 as we proceed from Cotterstock ; 
 and at a bend of the river (1J m.) 
 the road turns off N.W. towards 
 Wood Newton , — a name which indi- 
 cates that we are approaching what 
 was anciently one of the closest 
 parts of the great Kockingham 
 forest. The church has a remark- 
 able Dec. window, — triangular- 
 headed. 1 m. farther we reach 
 Apethorpe (E. of Westmoreland, — 
 a house of some interest. Ape- 
 thorpe (in some early documents 
 called 1 Apelthorpe ’ ) became the 
 property of Sir Walter Mildmay in 
 the reign of Ed. VI. This Sir 
 Walter, son of Thomas Mildmay, of 
 Chelmsford, became Chancellor of 
 the Exchequer, and, himself a zealous 
 Puritan, was the founder of Em- 
 manuel College in Cambridge. His 
 house at Apethorpe and that college 
 were built on a similar plan, with a 
 double quadrangle. His son, Sir 
 Anthony, succeeded him; and his 
 only child and heiress, Mary, became 
 the wife of Sir Francis Fane, created 
 Earl of Westmoreland in 1624. In 
 that family Apethorpe has ever since 
 remained. It has been thus de- 
 scribed in verse by one of the most 
 accomplished sons of the house, the 
 late Julian Fane (died 1870): — ■ 
 
 “ The moss-grey mansion of my father stands 
 
 Parked in an English pasturage as fair 
 
 As any that the grass- green isle can show. 
 
 Above it rise deep-wooded lawns ; below 
 
 A brook runs riot through the pleasant 
 lands, 
 
 And blabs its secrets to the merry air. 
 
 The village peeps from out deep poplars, 
 where 
 
 A grey bridge spans the stream ; and all 
 beyond 
 
 In sloping vales and sweet acclivities 
 
 The many dimpled, laughing landscape 
 lies. 
 
 Four-square, and double- courted, and grey- 
 stoned 
 
 Two quaint quadrangles of deep-latticed 
 walls 
 
 Grass-grown, and moaned about by trooj s 
 of doves, 
 
 The ancient house ! Collegiate in name, 
 
 As in its aspect, like the famous Halls, 
 
 Whose hoary fronts make reverend the 
 groves 
 
 Of Isis, or the banks of classic Cam.” 
 
 ‘ Memoir’ by R. Lytton, p 71. 
 
 At this house (then apparently not 
 fully completed, since it is asserted 
 that the same king gave timber for 
 building the E. and S. sides) James 
 I. dined on his journey from Scotland 
 in 1603, and it is said gave or allowed 
 the owner to have executed the 
 statue of himself, which is now in 
 the entrance hall. Here also, on a 
 later visit, in 1614, he saw for the 
 first time George Yilliers, destined to 
 become the powerful Duke of Buck- 
 ingham. There had been some plot- 
 ting to present a new favourite to the 
 king; and Yilliers, then a lad of 16 
 or 17, was brought to Apethorpe 
 by Anthony Cade, of Bettesworth. 
 Apartments, called the king’s and 
 the duke’s chambers, are still shown, 
 and on the chimney-piece of the 
 latter is a representation of the ship 
 which carried Prince Charles and 
 the Duke to Spain ; and beneath it 
 a hand supporting a ducal coionet 
 and the Prince’s feather. There is 
 a long and fine wainscotted gallery, 
 with a richly ornamented ceiling, 
 and at the end, a portrait of Sir 
 Walter Mildmay, founder of the 
 house. It was he who, with Sir 
 Amyas Paulet, delivered Elizabeth’s 
 letter to Q. Mary at Fotheringhay ; 
 
54 
 
 Sect. L 
 
 Route 2 . — Northampton to Peterborough. 
 
 and lie had been one of those who 
 sate on her trial. Here is also the 
 “ lively portraiture ” of the Lady 
 Grace, wife of Sir Anthony Mildmay, 
 who, according to a tradition of the 
 house, “ walks” on certain nights, 
 scattering silver pennies behind her. 
 This is probably a recollectiori of 
 her charity in life. It is recorded 
 on her monument in the church that 
 she was u helpful with phisick, 
 cloathes, nourishment, or counsels to 
 any in misery She founded “ four 
 quarterly sermons,” besides leaving 
 money for the poor and for putting 
 out apprentices. Other pictures to 
 be specially noted are 2 fine Van- 
 dychs , Rachel, daughter of Francis, 
 1st Earl of Westmoreland, a full 
 length, in white; u an elegant pic- 
 ture in his latest silvery tones” — 
 Waajen; and James Stuart, D. 
 of Richmond, full-length (known 
 by Earlom's engraving). George 
 Villiers, set. 16 ; and another at a 
 more advanced age by Janssen. By 
 Sir Joshua Reynolds are — Earl of 
 Westmoreland in a garden. He 
 wears a rich suit of red velvet, and 
 the picture, which remains unfaded, 
 is “a masterpiece of colouring and 
 vigorous movement.” — The son of 
 this Earl ; — and a young Earl, seated 
 between his two guardians, who are 
 standing — a picture much faded in 
 the flesh tones, but one of the capital 
 works of the master. There is also 
 a good head of Lady Westmoreland, 
 with one of her children, by Sir 
 Thomas Lawrence. In an apartment 
 especially designed and arranged 
 for the purpose by the late Mr. 
 Cockerell, are plaster casts of the 
 family of Niobe (in Waagen’s judg- 
 ment u the most important specimen 
 of Greek seulptuie which has de- 
 scended to us ”), a present from 
 the Grand Duke of Tuscany to the 
 late (the 11th) Earl, who was for 
 many years minister at his court. 
 
 In the Church of Apethorpe which 
 is not very noticeable, is the monu- 
 ment, with effigies, of Sir Anthony 
 
 Mildmay, son of the builder of the 
 house, and his wife, daughter of Sir 
 Henry Sherington, of Laycock, in 
 Wilts. There is a lofty canopy, and 
 around are figures of Faith, Hope, 
 and Charity, Justice, Wisdom, and 
 Devotion. The monument was 
 erected by their son-in-law, Sir 
 Francis Fane. In Bridge’s time 
 the east window retained much 
 stained glass, with the date 1621, 
 the gift, no doubt, of the same Sir 
 Francis, afterwards the 1st Earl. 
 
 A Roman u vicinal way,” still in 
 great part to be traced, ran from 
 Fotheringhay to Stamford, where it 
 joined the Ermine Street; and a 
 considerable Roman villa was dis- 
 covered in 1858, in the park of 
 Apethorpe, at the back of the house. 
 The site is low, raised but little 
 above the Willow-brook (the a brook” 
 of Julian Fane’s verses). There 
 were many rooms, two of which re- 
 tained pavements arranged in grace- 
 ful patterns, the material being 
 terra-cotta tesselljn, mixed with 
 others of a dark grey, on a white 
 ground. The whole formed an irre- 
 gular court, surrounded by groups 
 of buildings. There were baths, 
 supplied with water from the rising 
 ground behind, which is full of 
 springs. The pottery found was 
 from the kilns of Castor (Durobrivse, 
 see post). Among the coins was a 
 silver Severus, and, a 3rd brass of 
 Constantine the Great. Remains of 
 a similar villa have been found at 
 Cotterstock ; and, as has already been 
 said, Roman relics are scattered over 
 all this part of Northamptonshire, — 
 the ironstone (certainly worked at 
 that period), and the great woods 
 for hunting, having attracted a con- 
 siderable population. 
 
 The park of Apethorpe comprises 
 a considerable extent of ground; 
 and Morhay Lawn was anciently 
 included in it. The park, and all 
 this domain, formed part of the grant 
 from Edward YI. to Sir Walter 
 I Mildmay ; and had been crown land, 
 
Northants. Route 2. — Kingscliffe — Fotheringhay , 
 
 55 
 
 included in the forest of Rocking- 
 ham. The “ lawn ” (the true old 
 forest term) deserves a visit. A road 
 through fields from Apethorpe leads 
 to it, passing at the back of the 
 house, where are some fine small- 
 leaved elms, and an ancient dove- 
 cot. Apethorpe Lodge, a stone 
 farm-house, is seen on the top of the 
 hollow, W. The lawn itself is an 
 open grassy space, with a hollow in 
 the centre, to which the ground 
 slopes each way. Round it are many 
 pieces of wood, with much deep 
 undergrowth of brake and tangled 
 brushwood. On the E. side of the 
 hollow are many old thorns gathered 
 into groups. On the W. are the 
 Morhay oaks , famous old trees, of 
 unknown age, much shattered, and 
 many of them hollowed. A few are 
 still in full leaf. Others have only 
 thinly clothed boughs, with pro- 
 jecting splinters of ribbed wood. 
 The largest oak is about 20 ft. 6 in. 
 in circumference at a foot from the 
 ground. There are, perhaps, 20 
 or 30 trees ; and some elder anti- 
 quaries found here a double circle 
 of oaks, and held that Morhay was 
 a “Druidical centre.” The circles 
 are really as shadowy as the Druids. 
 One local authority asserts that the 
 trees “ were there before the deluge.” 
 Another compares them to the “ fleet 
 at Spithead : ” and although they 
 are no longer “ hearts of oak,” they 
 may not unfairly suggest some such 
 gathering, with their vast trunks 
 “ anchored ” over the lawn. From 
 the highest point of the lawn a 
 wooded country is commanded, pass- 
 ing far away into a blue distance, 
 with spires breaking upwards at 
 intervals. The whole scene is wild 
 and pleasant. The “hay” of 
 “Morhay” occurs over the forest 
 region (Fotheringhay, Woodhay) — 
 and signifies a “ haia” or “ hedged” 
 enclosure for restraining the deer. 
 
 The village of Kingscliffe is 1} 
 m. N.W. of Apethorpe. There was 
 here a small royal hunting-lodge, 
 
 and adjoining was Cliffe Park, an 
 enclosed portion of Rockingham 
 forest, of which the keepership was 
 granted by the crown to the Cecils. 
 The church of Kingscliffe (restored 
 1863) is of no great interest. Law, 
 the author of the well-known ‘ Seri- 
 ous Call * was born here ; and there 
 are some memorials of his family in 
 the church. Kingscliffe is about 4 m. 
 from Wans ford Stat. on the L. and 
 N. W. Rly. — by which the return 
 may be made to Oundle. 
 
 From Oundle, the rly., more than 
 once crossing the winding Nen, 
 reaches 
 
 Elton Stat. (Warmington ch. and 
 spire are see rt. (see ante ) — and the 
 mound and church of Fotheringhay 
 are passed close at hand before 
 Elton Stat. is reached). 
 
 This is the best point for the 
 pedestrian who desires to make his 
 way to Fotheringhay , distant 1J m. 
 W. There is a pleasant field-path 
 from Elton (inquire for it at the 
 station). 
 
 The octagon of Fotheringhay 
 church, seen above the trees which 
 encircle the village, serves as some 
 sort of guide in the walk from Elton 
 station. The country here is gently 
 undulating, very flat toward the 
 south along the valley of the Ken, 
 but eastward and northward rising 
 gradually toward the higher ground 
 of Rockingham forest, above Ape- 
 thorpe. The village of Fothering- 
 hay is, as in Leland’s time, “ but one 
 street, al of stone building. The 
 glorie of it standi th by the paroche 
 chirche of a fair buildid, and colle- 
 giatid.” “ There be,” he adds, 
 “exceeding goodly meadowes by 
 Foderingey” — and the level pastures 
 along the left bank of the Nen gave 
 name to the place — the “hay” or 
 enclosure (see ante, Morehay lawn) 
 of the “fodder” meadow \ing). A 
 line of ancient way, connected with 
 the Ermine Street, here crossed the 
 
56 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Route 2 . — Fotheringhay : the Castle . 
 
 river by a ford a little below the 
 village; and it was to guard this 
 ford that the great mound on which 
 the Castle keep afterwards stood, 
 was thrown up, possibly by some 
 Anglian or Danish possessor, (Si- 
 milar mounds occur frequently along 
 the banks of the Nen and the Ouse, 
 — as at Clifford near Northampton 
 (see ante). Their date is uncertain, 
 and Roman relics have been found 
 in and near some. In most cases, 
 however, they appear to be later 
 than the English conquest.) The 
 first true castle here was probably 
 the work of Simon of Senlis, also 
 the builder of Northampton Castle 
 (see Rte. 1). Fotheringhay had be- 
 longed to the Countess Judith, and 
 passed to her daughter, wife of Earl 
 Simon, — who carried it, witli the 
 Earldom of Huntingdon, to David 
 of Scotland, whom - she married 
 secondly. The manor continued in 
 the hands of the Scottish princes 
 and their descendants until it came 
 at last to Devorguilla, daughter of 
 Alan of Galloway, and wife of John 
 of Baliol. They were the founders 
 of Baliol College in Oxford, of which 
 a certain Walter of Fotheringhay, 
 appointed by them, was the first 
 master. The Scottish holding of 
 Fotheringhay ceased with the son 
 of John and Devorguilla — the John 
 Baliol who became king of Scotland. 
 There was a short tenancy by John 
 of Bretagne, E. of Richmond, and 
 his granddaughter, Mary of Cha- 
 tillon, foundress of Pembroke Hall 
 in Cambridge; and the Honour of 
 Huntingdon, which included this 
 castle, was then granted by Ed. III. 
 to his 5th son, Edmund of Langley, 
 then a minor, and created D. of 
 York in the 9th year of his nephew, 
 Richard II. Henceforth Fothering- 
 hay became the principal and most 
 favoured residence of the Plantage- 
 nets of York. Edmund of Langley 
 rebuilt the greater part of the castle, 
 and paid special attention to the 
 keep, which he caused to be con- 
 
 structed in the form of a fetterlock, 
 the “falcon and fetterlock” being 
 the device assumed by him and his 
 descendants. He also made the old 
 parish church collegiate, and rebuilt 
 the choir, in which the body of his 
 son Edward, who succeeded him as 
 D. of York, and who fell at Agin- 
 court, was solemnly interred. (Ed- 
 ward of York commanded the van- 
 guard of archers in the battle, and 
 did good service. He was, accord- 
 ing to Leland, stifled in his armour 
 during the heat and “throng” of 
 the fight. His body was brought 
 back to England.) Richard of 
 York, who married Cicely Neville — 
 the Plantagenet of (Shakespeare’s 
 scene in the Temple gardens, the 
 York who fell at Wakefield, and 
 whose head was set by Queen Mar- 
 garet above Micklegate Bar, 
 
 “That York might overlook the town of 
 York” — 
 
 was the next possessor. Ed. IV. re- 
 moved the head of his father, and 
 conveyed it, with the body, to 
 Fotheringhay, together with the 
 body of his brother, the young Earl 
 of Rutland, killed at Wakefield by 
 the “ butcher Clifford.” They were 
 buried in the choir, in the presence 
 of the king, the queen, and of a 
 great company of churchmen. The 
 long procession had moved onward 
 from Pontefract (where the body 
 had been first laid to rest) in great 
 splendour, and Richard of Glouces- 
 ter, afterwards Richard III., rode 
 behind the great funeral car. The 
 widow of Richard of York, the 
 Duchess Cicely, made Fotheringhay 
 her principal residence during the 
 36 years that she survived her hus- 
 band. He had completed the church 
 begun by Edmund of Langley ; and 
 after her death at Berkhampstead 
 in 1495, she also was interred in the 
 choir here. Henry VII. settled 
 Fotheringhay on his Queen Eliza- 
 beth, the “ white rose of York ;” and 
 afterwards made it a portion of the 
 
57 
 
 Nokthants. Boute 2. — Fotheringhay : the Castle . 
 
 dowry of Catherine of Arragon on 
 her marriage to Prince Arthur. She 
 liked the place, and according to 
 Leland “ did great costs of refresh- 
 ing it.” The rest of the story of 
 the castle will best be told on the 
 site itself. This site, with the 
 church , and the ancient hostel at the 
 castle gates, are the places of interest 
 to be visited in Fotheringhay. 
 
 In approaching from Elton, the 
 long village street is first entered 
 west of the church. Passing the 
 church for the present, we proceed 
 to the eastern end of the street — 
 where on the 1. stands the hostel 
 (now a farmhouse) — certainly built 
 by Edward IV., and perhaps in pre- 
 paration for the great assemblage of 
 persons at the funeral of Richard of 
 York. It has been much restored, 
 and the interior is almost entirely 
 modern. The main portal remains, 
 and is very picturesque, with orna- 
 mented spandrels, a row of graceful 
 foiled openings above the main arch, 
 a window for the porter’s chamber, 
 above, and shields of arms serving 
 as terminations for the outer mould- 
 ings. The inner court was once 
 surrounded with galleries. The 
 hostel served especially for the ac- 
 commodation of strangers visiting 
 the castle; and during the trial of 
 the Q. of Scots, when the castle was 
 filled with her train, and with the 
 soldiers of Sir Amyas Paulet, the 
 commissioners and judges sent down 
 from London were compelled to 
 house themselves in this building, 
 and elsewhere in the village. The 
 lords brought large retinues with 
 them ; and at least 2000 horse were 
 quartered in Fotheringhay itself 
 and in the neighbourhood. 
 
 Close beyond the hostel a farm 
 gate opens to the fields over which 
 extend the foundations of the Castle. 
 The great keep mound rises in front, ! 
 and on climbing to its summit we j 
 see at once the true position of the j 
 place. The Nen flows close under j 
 the mound, and effectually defended j 
 
 the southern front of the castle. 
 Beyond it, a wide view is com- 
 manded over all the level coun- 
 try S. and S.W., and the “forest 
 ridges” stretch away N. and W. 
 beyond corn-fields and pasture-land. 
 The mound itself is covered with 
 foundations of the fetterlock tower 
 raised on it by Richard of York; 
 and a fragment of ruined wall, look- 
 ing like a great mass of conglome- 
 rate, lies close below, on the bank of 
 the river. A moat, full of green 
 water-flags, encloses the mound, and 
 what was the inner court of the 
 castle N. and E. Beyond this moat 
 on the N. was the outer bailey, 
 marked, like the rest of the ground, 
 by traces of old walls and divisions ; 
 and there was again (as appears 
 from a survey of 1625, the last year 
 of King James) an outer moat, en- 
 closing the whole. In the inner 
 court, and at the foot of the mound, 
 was the great hall, described as 
 “wonderful spacious,” — the chapel 
 and u goodly lodgings.” The castle 
 was dismantled and “ slighted,” not 
 by James I., as is usually asserted, 
 but soon after the survey made in 
 his last year. The buildings were 
 sold piece by piece. The great hall 
 was bought by Sir Robert Cotton, 
 the antiquary, and removed by him 
 to Conington in Huntingdonshire. 
 Some other portions were used for 
 building a chapel at Fineshade, in 
 the neighbourhood; and, about the 
 middle of the last century, the last 
 portions of the walls that remained 
 were employed in constructing cer- 
 tain dykes and fences connected 
 with the navigation of the Nen. 
 
 Queen Mary was brought here 
 from Chartley in Staffordshire, in 
 September, 1586. She was con- 
 ducted to Fotheringhay by Sir 
 Amyas Paulet, who remained about 
 her, and was placed under the care 
 of Sir William Fitzwilliam of Mil- 
 ton, then constable of the castle. 
 There had been much discussion as 
 to the place to which she should be 
 d 3 
 
58 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Route 2. — FotheringTiay : Castle; Church . 
 
 removed. Hertford Castle, North- 
 ampton, and Woodstock were named 
 — but to all there were greater ob- 
 jections than to Fotheringhay, still 
 a strong place, and at a sufficient dis- 
 tance from the sea and from London. 
 The Queen of Scots passed here the 
 last 5 months of her life, closely 
 watched, and not allowed to take 
 her usual exercise on horseback, or 
 to proceed beyond the castle gates. 
 It was the first true prison house 
 she had entered ; and it is said that 
 as she first caught sight of the castle 
 towers she exclaimed “Pereo” — 
 with a presentiment that she was 
 about to enter the last of her Eng- 
 lish abodes. Here took place her 
 trial before the Judges and Com- 
 missioners ; and here in the great 
 hall (which Elizabeth had herself 
 suggested as a more fitting place 
 than the courtyard or the green) 
 she was beheaded, Feb. 8, 1586-7. 
 The castle courts were thronged 
 with people while the memorable 
 scene was enacted within the hall; 
 and the severed head, on a cushion 
 of black velvet, was exposed to their 
 view for an hour, from one of the 
 large windows. The body of the 
 queen remained here for six months 
 after the execution ; and on the 1 st 
 of August, 1587, it was conveyed 
 to Peterborough Cathedral and in- 
 terred there. (See post , Peter- 
 borough.) Her servants were de- 
 tained at Fotheringhay for 3 months 
 longer, and were only allowed to 
 depart on the earnest representations 
 of James of Scotland. A signet 
 ring bearing the initials of Darnley 
 and Q. Mary — H.M. — connected by 
 love-knots, and having within the 
 hoop a shield with the royal lion of 
 Scotland and the name and date, 
 “ Henri L. Darnley, 1565/’ was 
 found among the ruins here about 
 1830, and is now in the Waterton 
 collection at S. Kensington. (The 
 most vivid account of the last days of 
 Q. Mary here, and of her death, will 
 be found in Froude’s ‘ Hist/ vol. xii.) 
 
 Some large old thorn-trees grow 
 on the site of the hall. The lodg- 
 ings occupied by the queen adjoined 
 it at the S. end ; and had probably 
 been those in which Elizabeth her- 
 self was lodged on a progress during 
 which she visited Fotheringhay, 
 and directed the reconstruction of 
 the royal tombs in the church. (See 
 post ) When Fuller visited the 
 castle, he read, traced by a diamond 
 in Mary’s well known handwriting, 
 in the window of one of the lodging 
 chambers — 
 
 “ From the top of all my trust, 
 
 Mishap hath laid me in the dust.” 
 
 The scene we look upon from the 
 mound is little changed since the 
 unhappy queen beheld it day after 
 day in its winter dress — with the 
 Nen everywhere flooding the low- 
 lands. 
 
 From the castle we turn to the 
 Church , which stands a little higher 
 up the river, but still on the bank. 
 Only the nave remains, and this 
 suggests the former “glory” of 
 Fotheringhay even more distinctly 
 than the castle. When complete it 
 must have been a church of unusual 
 stateliness even for this country. It 
 was of course Perpendicular through- 
 out ; begun by Edmund of Langley 
 (who made it collegiate) and com- 
 pleted by that Bichard of York who 
 fell at Wakefield. Edward IY. 
 added a “ fair cloister ” and erected 
 over the tombs of his father and 
 brother what Leland calls a “ pratie 
 chapel.” On the suppression of the 
 college under Ed. YI., the nave 
 alone was retained for the use of the 
 parishioners. The noble choir fell 
 into ruin ; and when Q. Eliz. visited 
 the place she found the “pratie 
 chapel” and the tombs of her an- 
 cestors shattered, neglected, and 
 open to the wind and rain. She 
 caused the bodies to be removed into 
 the existing nave, and ordered the 
 erection of the monuments which 
 remain on either side of the altar. 
 
Northants. Route 2. — F other inghay : the Church . 
 
 59 
 
 Entering the church, we are struck 
 by the fine and lofty Perp. arches, 
 the great clerestory, the noble win- 
 dows of the aisles, and the western 
 tower arch with the groined vault- 
 ing beyond it. The whole bears the 
 stamp of something far more digni- 
 fied than a mere village church. 
 The lofty aisle windows, 4 on each 
 side, are especially noticeable. They 
 were filled with stained glass, rich 
 with figures of saints and prophets, 
 and ablaze with all the bearings of 
 the House of York, and the shields 
 of France and of England. This 
 glass survived all earlier troubles, 
 but was shattered and stolen in 
 the last century, through the care- 
 lessness of indifferent rectors and 
 churchwardens. On either side of 
 the altar are the monuments erected 
 by order of Q. Eliz. They are tole- 
 rably good in design, but by no 
 means of any great importance. A 
 broad cornice is supported by fluted 
 shafts with enriched caps., and brief 
 inscriptions record that each was 
 “ made in the year of our Lord 1573” 
 On the S. lies Edward of York, 
 killed at Agincourt, and son of Ed- 
 mund of Langley, builder of the 
 vanished choir. On the N. are 
 interred Richard D. of York, killed 
 at Wakefield (father of Ed. IV.), 
 and his Duchess Cicely. Here also 
 is laid the young E. of Rutland. 
 On a tablet in the S. aisle are the 
 following lines, which record the 
 beginning of the present church, 
 and have been repainted or copied 
 from the original inscription : — 
 
 “ In Festi Martyrii processu Martiniani, 
 
 Ecclesiaa prima fuit hujus petra locata. 
 
 Anno Ckristi centum quatuor ac mille 
 cum deca quinta. 
 
 Henrici quinti tunc imminente secundo.” 
 The date thus given is 1415. The 
 font is very good Perp. raised on 
 steps; and the original pulpit re- 
 mains, with a later (Jacobean) 
 canopy. The nave roof is original, 
 but very plain. Altogether, this 
 ch. is one of the best examples in 
 
 the kingdom for the study of the 
 Perp. style ; not only from the purity 
 and beauty of the mouldings of 
 doors, windows, and piers, but be- 
 cause the original contract for the 
 work (the building of the nave) is 
 still in existence (it will be found 
 in the ‘Monasticon,’ and was pub- 
 lished separately at Oxford in 1841), 
 and its several details may be com- 
 pared with the existing architecture. 
 The contract is between William 
 Woolston and Thomas Pecham, com- 
 missaries of the Duke of York, 
 and William Harwod, freemason, of 
 Fotheringhay. The duke was to 
 find “carriage and stuff ;” Harwod 
 was to receive 300Z. sterling, at 
 different periods. 
 
 There are matrices of two brasses; 
 and near the altar an inscription 
 for Mr. Thomas, “ Scholemaster of 
 Fodringhay,” 33 years, who died in 
 1589, and was perhaps present in 
 the court of the castle when Queen 
 Mary was beheaded. “Psedotriba 
 bonus,” begin the verses, “ jacet hie 
 sub marmore tectus.” 
 
 The massive tower is surmounted 
 by a lofty octagon, having a large 
 Perp. window in each of its sides. 
 The aisles have pinnacled buttresses, 
 and flying buttresses are carried 
 across to the top of the clerestory 
 windows. “ Either of tli e said aisles,’ 5 
 runs the contract, “shall have six 
 mighty arches, butting on either 
 side to the clerestory.” The cloister 
 built by Edward IV. was on the S. 
 side of the nave, and has entirely 
 disappeared. Lei and saw the win- 
 dows filled with figures, and “verses 
 of the book caul lid Mtlnio'pum terras” 
 the “Eclogue” of Theodulus, died 
 480 ; “de Miraculis Vet. Test.” The 
 college consisted of a master, 12 
 chaplains, 8 clerks, and 13 choris- 
 ters. The ground on which the 
 buildings stood had been assigned 
 by Simon of Senlis to a house of 
 Cluniac nuns, afterwards removed 
 to Delapre. 
 
 A rude wooden bridge, which had 
 
60 
 
 Route 2 . — Northampton to Peterborough. Sect. I 
 
 been constructed across the old ford j 
 of the Nen, was replaced by a stone 
 bridge in 1573. Stukeley saw this 
 bridge, with an inscription recording 
 that it was “ made by Q. Eliz. ,” and 
 above, “ God save the Queen ” — the 
 latter words half hacked away by 
 (it was said) the swords of Crom- 
 well’s Ironsides. In 1722 the whole 
 gave place to the bridge which now 
 exists. 
 
 In 6 minutes from Elton stat., the 
 train reaches 
 
 Sibson Stat. ; whence a short branch 
 line runs northward to Stamford. 
 [This line has stations at Wansford 
 Road, at TJjford Bridge , and at Bar- 
 nack. In the church of Wansford 
 is a remarkable Norm, font, and a 
 fine Norm, portal beneath a Grecian 
 porch, dating 1663. The church of 
 Wittering lies to the 1. of Ufford 
 Eoad Stat., and is interesting for 
 the extent of its Saxon remains. 
 There is “ long- and- short work” 
 at the angles of both chancel and 
 nave ; and as the chancel arch seems 
 to be also of earlier date than the 
 Conquest, we have the ground-plan 
 of the original church. The work 
 at the angles projects, so as to form 
 a narrow and shallow pilaster. The 
 chancel arch is very rude and mas- 
 sive, the caps, immense blocks, with- 
 out moulding or decoration. A 
 Norm. N. aisle was added to this 
 first ch. ; and the arches somewhat 
 resemble those at Barnack. The 
 tower and spire are E. Eng., and 
 there are Dec. insertions in the ch. 
 Wittering belonged to the Abbey of 
 Peterborough before the Conquest. 
 
 Barnack Church is one of the most 
 remarkable in England, but is best 
 visited from Stamford. It is fully 
 described in Rte. 3.] 
 
 1 m.N. of Sibson Stat. is the little 
 Norm. ch. of Sutton, worth notice. 
 
 There is a singular low chancel 
 
 screen of stone; and along the wall 
 
 of the S. aisle a stone bench, ter- 
 
 minated by a couching lion with a 
 monster on its back. The bench is 
 probably coeval with the fabric. The 
 N. door is E. Eng. 
 
 The Nen, running N. to Wansford, 
 there makes a great bend toward 
 the S. It is crossed by the rly. at 
 Sibson ; and the next stat. is 
 
 Castor. Here there are two objects 
 of interest : the Church , and the 
 Roman station. 
 
 The Homan settlement of Buro- 
 brivx lay on both sides of the river ; 
 and the names of Castor on the left 
 bank, and Chesterton on the right, 
 indicate that they both represent it, 
 or outworks connected with it. (The 
 northern form “Castor” and the 
 southern “ Chester” are here brought 
 into close juxtaposition. It is not 
 easy to account for the difference. 
 The former may perhaps be more 
 Danish than Anglian.) 
 
 The Church of Castor is chiefly 
 noticeable for its very fine late Norm, 
 tower. This is central ; and over the 
 priest’s door in the present chancel 
 is a dedication stone, removed from 
 the Norm, chancel, and still quite 
 legible. The inscription runs XV. 
 KL. MAI. Dedicatio hujus ecclesie. 
 A.D. M.C. XXIII [., thus recording 
 the dedication as having taken place 
 April 17, 1124. But the last figures 
 were carved at a much later date 
 than the rest, and are incised in- 
 stead of standing in relief; and the 
 date thus given would not be trust- 
 worthy but for its confirmation by 
 the 1 * * 4 Peterborough Chronicle ’ (sub 
 ann. 1124). To this Norm, church 
 aisles were added about the middle 
 of the 13th centy., abutting against 
 the W. walls of the original tran- 
 septs, and blocking their windows. 
 The chancel was rebuilt (or took 
 the place of a Norm, apse) some- 
 what earlier; and the walls of the 
 transepts were raised. On the ex- 
 terior remark especially the Norm, 
 tower, which rises in two stages 
 above the roof. The lower stage 
 
JSToethants. 
 
 Route 2 . — Castor — Durobrivce. 
 
 61 
 
 has windows of two lights; the 
 upper an arcade of five arches, three 
 of which are pierced for belfry win- 
 dows. All the walls are covered 
 with rich designs, introducing square, 
 billet, hatchet, and scalloped orna- 
 ments; but shallow, and such as 
 would not require the use of a 
 chisel. The spire is of the 14th 
 centy., and rises within a cumbrous 
 parapet of the same date. The lofty 
 roof of the transept is due to the 
 raising and alteration of the Norm, 
 walls in the 13th centy. Within , 
 the nave arcades are of the 13th 
 centy., that on the S. side, with 
 round piers and arches, and the 
 nail-head ornament in the caps, 
 being the earlier. The N. arcade 
 has octagonal piers and pointed 
 arches. The tower is raised on four 
 massive piers, of which the caps, 
 and bases were restored in 1851. 
 Two caps, of the N.E. pier are en- 
 tirely new, the originals having 
 been destroyed to make room for a 
 monument. The carving of the old 
 work, rich with figures of men and 
 animals, unlike that of the exterior, 
 must have required the chisel. The 
 N. transept is separated from the 
 aisle by a stone screen, consisting of 
 open quatrefoils below supporting a 
 series of niches, the central niche 
 having a pedestal for the figure of 
 St. Kyneburh, to whom the ch. is 
 ded. (see post). This screen formed 
 the reredos behind the altar of the 
 N. aisle, which was probably ded. 
 to the saint. A staircase in the 
 transept leads to the bells, and above 
 the roof is a curious priest’s cham- 
 ber. The S. transept is much more 
 spacious than the N., and has an 
 eastern aisle. There is an inscrip- 
 tion cut in the wood round the door 
 of the S. aisle, which runs “Ricardus 
 Beby rector ecclesie de Castre fecit,” 
 but no rector of this name occurs in 
 any registers. The chancel is raised 
 five steps ; and its E Eng. rebuilders 
 retained or replaced the Norm, se- 
 dilia. There is a double piscina, 
 
 richly carved with dog-tooth. The 
 roofs of nave and transepts are Perp., 
 with shield-bearing angels. They 
 were restored, together with the 
 whole ch., in 1851. There are no 
 monuments of importance. In the 
 ch.-yd. is part of a Saxon cross. 
 
 From the restoration until 1851, 
 the living of Castor was attached to 
 the see of Peterborough, and was 
 held in commendam with it. The 
 manor and advowson belonged to 
 the great abbey from a very early 
 period until the Dissolution. St. 
 Kyneburh, whose name as a patron 
 saint is preserved only in this parish, 
 was one of 4 drs. of Penda, K. of 
 the Mercians, and was the wife of 
 Alfred, K. of Northumbria. About 
 the year 650 she founded a convent 
 here, among the Roman ruins (in 
 the record of her life the place is 
 called Dormnndceastre ), became her- 
 self its abbess, died, and was buried 
 here. Her body and that of her 
 sister, St. Kyniswith, were removed 
 early in the 11th centy. by Abbot 
 iElfsi to Peterborough ; and the re- 
 markable monument now preserved 
 in the “ new building” of the cathe- 
 dral, and long regarded as the me- 
 morial of Abbot Hedda and the 
 monks killed by the Danes in 870, 
 far more probably, as Mr. Bloxam 
 has suggested, w T as placed over the 
 relics of these sisters, since it is cer- 
 tainly not older than the abbacy of 
 iElfsi, 1005-1055. (See post , Peter- 
 borough Cathedral.) (The transla- 
 tion of the bodies by Abbot iElfsi is 
 recorded in the 1 A. S. Chron.’) 
 
 Although the Roman settlement 
 of Durobrivce extended on both sides 
 of the river, the principal entrench- 
 ment was on the left bank, nearly 
 opposite Castor Mills. The Ermine 
 Street, running N. from Godman- 
 chester toward Stamford and Lin- 
 coln, passed through the stat., and 
 was known as “Lady Coneyborough’s 
 Way,” from a tradition that when 
 St. Kyneburh was once pursued by 
 a ruffianly assailant, the road un- 
 
62 
 
 Boute 2 . — Northampton to Peterborough . Sect. I. 
 
 rolled itself before her as she fled, 
 and thus enabled her to escape. 
 The stat., now called “ the Castles,” 
 remains tolerably perfect, in form 
 an irregular hexagon, 2200 ft. lon^r, 
 and 1300 wide, diminishing to 600 ft. 
 at its S. end. It is surrounded by 
 a fosse and vallum. There is a tu- 
 mulus within the camp ; and on the 
 greater part of its area portions of 
 Roman buildings, and much pottery, 
 have been discovered. It is said 
 that a bridge across the Nen formerly 
 existed here, connecting Durobrivse 
 with its suburb on the opposite 
 bank, where is now the village of 
 Castor. Of this bridge there are no 
 traces ; but the whole of the ground 
 occupied by Castor was covered with 
 important Roman buildings, appa- 
 rently separate villas, or private 
 houses. These remains are for the 
 most part figured in Artis’s ‘ Duro- 
 brivse/ a series of plates (without 
 letter-press or description) published 
 in 1821. Artis discovered numerous 
 tesselated pavements, one of which, 
 of which the design is very good, 
 was laid down in an ante-room to 
 a dairy at Milton (see post , Exc. 
 from Peterborough). The tesserae 
 are for the most part grey, white, 
 red and yellow, and of local manu- 
 facture. Nearly all the houses were 
 warmed by hypocaustal chambers; 
 and in one case a room was found 
 lined with slabs of Alwalton marble, 
 and another with white stone tesserae 
 laid in cement. Few sculptures or in- 
 scribed stones have been discovered. 
 A circular miliary stone bore a dedi- 
 catory inscription to Hadrian. Many 
 small bronze instruments and orna- 
 ments have occurred, and a set of 
 models was found here for casting at 
 once 62 small brass coins; in one of 
 the moulds a coin of Severus had 
 been left. Coins ranging from Galba 
 to Theodosius have been found; and 
 in the neighbourhood of the great 
 entrenchment they were at one time 
 so numerous that an old writer says 
 ‘‘a man would really think they had 
 
 been sown.” The main cemetery 
 was outside the S.E. portion of the 
 camp, where many skeletons have 
 been turned up, laid in regular order, 
 but without cofiins. On the N.W. 
 side of the camp stone coffins con- 
 taining skeletons have been found. 
 Other such coffins have occurred on 
 the road between the camp and 
 Chesterton. A little to the E. of 
 the camp was an “ ustrina ,” or place 
 for burning bodies; still covered, 
 when found, with charcoal and ashes, 
 mingled with small fragments of 
 bones and pottery; and in making 
 a turnpike-road towards Wansford, 
 urns of different shapes and colours, 
 some containing coins, but all filled 
 with burnt bones, were found in 
 great numbers. 
 
 There was a smaller square camp 
 or outpost at Chesterton , about 1 m. 
 S.W. of Durobrivae, and on the same 
 side of the river. The hamlet of 
 Alwalton, close adjoining, indicates 
 by its name how thickly the country 
 had been covered with Roman build- 
 ings; but the great distinction of 
 Durobrivae was its pottery. The 
 local clay was found excellent for 
 the purposes of the potter ; and kilns 
 and great works extended round 
 Castor and its neighbourhood for 
 about 20 m. up and down the Nen 
 valley. Roman potters’ kilns have 
 been found nowhere else in England 
 so perfect, or in so great numbers. 
 One of these, found in 1 822 in Nor- 
 mangate field, “was of a spherical 
 form, 83 in. in diam., and com- 
 posed of terra-cotta tiles surrounded 
 by curved moulded bricks. Beneath 
 was a furnace, access to which was 
 provided by means of an arched 
 aperture in a wall forming the front 
 of the kiln. Within this kiln were 
 found various vessels, left there by 
 the Roman potter who made them ; 
 one, a vase of grey ware, having 
 borders of indented work, and deco- 
 rative ornaments in raised white 
 clay; another, of dull red colour, 
 with indented sides. The kilns 
 
North ants. 
 
 'Route 2 . — Chesterton — Overton. 
 
 63 
 
 seem to be of different dates; and 
 the Durobrivian ware was very su- 
 perior to that made in the Upchurch 
 marshes, and was indeed the best 
 made in this country under the 
 Romans. It occurs glazed and un- 
 glazed; red, brown, grey, black, 
 white and cream-coloured. “ The 
 vessels, on which are displayed a 
 variety of hunting subjects, repre- 
 sentations of fishes, scrolls, and 
 human figures, were all glazed after 
 the figures were laid on; where, 
 however, the decorations are white, 
 the vessels were glazed before the 
 ornaments were added.” Some of 
 the vessels are stamped with the 
 name of the potter. The designs 
 are often spirited ; and the forms 
 very gracef ul. Drinking cups, lamps, 
 jars, bodies, bowls and dishes, were 
 made here; and Durobrivian ware 
 found its way over the greater part 
 of Roman Britain. Besides the pot- 
 tery, iron weapons and ornaments 
 were made here extensively under 
 the Romans; and hatchets, spear 
 and arrow heads, bolts and rings 
 are turned up in great numbers. 
 The native iron ore was used ; and 
 the manner in which the metal was 
 extracted was clearly shown in an 
 iron furnace found at Wansford. 
 Durobrivaa was thus a very im- 
 portant centre, and of far greater 
 consequence than its namesake on 
 the Medway — the English Rofes- 
 ceastre = Rochester. In both cases 
 Durobrivse is the British name Latin- 
 ized, and refers to the river (Dwr) 
 on which each place stands. The 
 “brivae” has been variously ex- 
 plained, but seems to signify the 
 ferry, passage, or bridge across the 
 water. 
 
 Chesterton House (in Huntingdon- 
 shire) was the home of John Driden, 
 first cousin of the poet (who changed 
 his own name to Dryden). “ Glorious 
 John” was often here, and it is said 
 wrote the first four verses of his 
 ‘Virgil’ with a diamond on one of 
 the window panes. The house was 
 
 pulled down in 1807. John Driden 
 of Chesterton (died 1707) is buried 
 in the village church ; and his epi- 
 taph concludes with some lines from 
 the epistle in verse which the poet 
 addressed to him, and prefixed to his 
 4 Fables.’ The epistle praises the 
 activity of Mr. Driden as a J.P., and 
 as a lover of field-sports : and con- 
 tains the well-known lines : — 
 
 “ Better to hunt in fields for health unbought, 
 Than fee the doctor for a nauseous draught/’ 
 
 The ch. is E. Eng., with a some- 
 what later broach spire. The details 
 are very good, especially those of 
 the main arcade and of the S. door ; 
 but there has been sad mutilation of 
 windows, and the chancel retains 
 no ancient features. Besides the 
 monument of John Driden, there 
 are two for members of the Bevill 
 family, from whom Driden acquired 
 the manor. One of these is for 
 Wm. Bevill, d. 1483; the other, an 
 elaborate structure, with kneeling 
 figures, for Robert Bevill, and his 
 son Sir Robert, d. 1611, and their 
 wives. [Camden describes two 
 large stones, called St. Edmund’s 
 stones, standing on a balk called St. 
 Edmunds, and “niched on the top 
 after the manner of arrows, in me- 
 mory of that saint’s death.” They 
 are in Castor field, near Gunwade 
 ferry, and were set up to testify that 
 the carriage of Barnack stone that 
 way, across the ferry, to St. Ed- 
 mundsbury, was ‘‘toll free.” A local 
 tradition asserted that they marked 
 the places at which arrows fell, shot 
 from Alwalton cli.-yd. by Robin 
 Hood and Little John. (This piece 
 of folk lore is found elsewhere — as 
 at Whitby in Yorkshire.)] 
 
 The next station , 
 
 Overton , serves for the two villages 
 of Overton Waterville and Overton 
 Longueville. Both stand on high 
 ground on the rt. bank of the Nen — 
 in Huntingdonshire. The Church of 
 Overton Longueville is almost en- 
 
64 
 
 Route 2 . — Northampton to Peterborough. Sect. I. 
 
 tirely of the early part of the 14th 
 centy. The windows of the chancel 
 E. and S.E. are especially good. 
 The S. aisle was built (1721) of 
 materials brought from the church 
 of Bottlebridge, which was then 
 destroyed and the parish united 
 with that of Overton. Adjoining 
 the N. door is a fresco of St. Christo- 
 pher. Between the chancel and the 
 N. chantry is the cross-legged effigy 
 of a knight — possibly that of the 
 Longueville who was the builder of 
 the church, with the date of which 
 it agrees. There are monuments 
 for Talbots and Armynes, and for 
 Sir Charles Cope, d. 1781 — “dis- 
 tinguished by true greatness, if the 
 great man is the honest one !” A 
 seated figure is the memorial of 
 Lady Mary Seymour, d. 1825 ; and 
 under the E. window of the chantry 
 an altar-tomb of granite for the 10th 
 Marquis of Huntly, d. 1863. The 
 Church of Overton WaterviJle is Dec. 
 with later additions and alterations. 
 The pulpit is here to be noticed. It 
 is of the 16th centy., finely and ela- 
 borately carved in oak, with panels 
 and borders of foliage. The details 
 resemble those of the screen in 
 King’s College Chapel at Cambridge; 
 and this pulpit is said to have been 
 brought from St. Mary’s Church 
 there. The form is octagonal, and 
 over it is suspended an octagonal 
 canopy of similar character, crested 
 with the royal arms. 
 
 Beyond Overton the great towers 
 of Peterborough soon appear; and 
 the train reaches 
 
 Peterborough Stat. I" This is the 
 station for the Great Eastern and 
 the London & N. W. Elys. It is on 
 the S. side of the Nen (crossed by a 
 bridge from Peterborough), and is 
 about f m. from the Cathedral. 
 The Gt. Northern Ply. Station is 
 entered from Cowgate, in the N. 
 part of the city. This station is 
 also used by the Midland Ply. 
 Peterborough is thus a greal rly. 
 
 centre and junction. Both stations 
 are large and important; and both 
 the Gt. Northern and the Midland 
 have extensive works, sheds, and 
 warehouses here, which are in fact 
 “railway villages;” the Gt. Northern 
 about. 1 m. from the citv, at a hamlet 
 called “New England;” the Midland 
 at the hamlet of Spittal. These 
 works afford employment to great 
 numbers of the inhabitants. In 
 1841 the pop. was 6959. In 1871 it 
 was 15,499 ; an increase mainly 
 owing to the extension of the rly. 
 system here.] 
 
 Peterborough ( Hotels : Gt. North- 
 ern, opposite and close to the Gt. 
 N. station. This is the best. In 
 the city are the Bull (good); and 
 the Angel. There is a good Refresh- 
 ment Room at the Gt. Northern 
 station, and a tolerable one at the 
 Midland. The principal trains 
 generally halt for ten minutes at 
 Peterborough) — the “burgh of St. 
 Peter ” — is one of those English 
 towns (Bury St. Edmund’s is an- 
 other striking example) which have 
 grown up round great monastic 
 establishments, and do not, like 
 Lincoln, York, or Exeter, occupy 
 the sites of British and Roman 
 stations. The monastery here was 
 founded, on the border of the fen 
 country, in 655, by Saxulf, a Mer- 
 cian thane of great riches and repu- 
 tation, with the assistance and pro- 
 tection of Peada, King of Mercia, 
 son of the fierce heathen Penda. 
 Peada had himself become a 
 Christian about three years before ; 
 and the Christianization of Mercia 
 — which a very few years saw the 
 best governed and best organized 
 province of the Church — began in 
 the same year as that which saw 
 the foundation of Peterborough. 
 The site was in the country of the 
 northern “ Gyrvii ” or Fen men (gyr, 
 A.S. = a fen), long a sort of de- 
 bateable land between Mercia and 
 East Anglia ; but certainly Mercian 
 after the conversion of that kingdom. 
 
65 
 
 Nort hants. Route 2. — Peterborough : History. 
 
 The southern Gyrvii remained more 
 nearly connected with E. Anglia; 
 and both the N. and S. fens had 
 been Christianized (no doubt from 
 E. Anglia) long before Mercia re- 
 ceived the faith. Thomas, the 
 second native Englishman conse- 
 crated a bishop, was a Gyrvian, and 
 succeeded St. Felix in the see of 
 Dunwich in 647. The fen country, 
 whatever we may now think of it, 
 possessed infinite charms in the 
 eyes of monastic writers. They 
 praise it for its wide extent, its 
 pleasant appearance (visu decora), 
 its streams, lakes, and islands, its 
 plenty of wood, abundant fisheries, 
 and quantity of game and water- 
 fowl. Peterborough was the first of 
 the great Benedictine abbeys estab- 
 lished either in the midst of the 
 fens, or on their borders. “ In truth 
 the country was well suited to the 
 then stage of English monastic life. 
 It was convenient both for the mis- 
 sionary and the anchoretic life. It 
 was secluded, and yet near to the 
 centres of population ; it was politi- 
 cally possessed of a sort of quasi- 
 independence that afforded security 
 to the missionaries sent from Chris- 
 tian Gyrvia into half-converted 
 Mercia.” ( Stubbs , “on the Founda- 
 tion and early Fasti of Peter- 
 borough,” ‘Arcbseol. Journal,’ vol. 
 xviii.) 
 
 The new monastery was founded 
 at a place called Medeshamstede 
 (meadow homestead?); and its po- 
 sition, on the edge of the marsh 
 country, and not, like Ely, Thorn ey, 
 or Ramsey, on an island rising from 
 the fens, explains why a larger and 
 more important “burgh” grew up 
 round Medeshamstede than round 
 the other fen monasteries. Saxulf, 
 the founder, became the first abbot ; 
 and probably retained the abbacy 
 after he became bishop of Lichfield ' 
 in 675. The monastery “ hallowed 
 in the names of St. Peter, St. Paul, 
 and St. Andrew” (hence the name 
 of “Peterburgh” which at last 
 
 superseded “ Medeshamstede), flou- 
 rished until 870, when the Danes, 
 under In guar and Hubba, devasta- 
 ted East Anglia and Mercia; and 
 Ely, Medeshamstede, and Crow- 
 land were all plundered and de- 
 stroyed. For nearly a century 
 Medeshamstede remained desolate ; 
 until about 966, Athelwold, bishop 
 of Winchester, as distinguished a 
 “ constructor ” or architect under 
 King Edgar as his successor William 
 of Wykeham was under Edward III , 
 caused it to be rebuilt, together with 
 many other religious houses which 
 had been destroyed by the North- 
 men. It was henceforth — probably 
 from being surrounded with a wall 
 of defence — called Burgh , “a simi- 
 litudine urbis,” says William of 
 Malmesbury. Before another hun- 
 dred years had passed, Peterborough 
 had become one of the wealthiest 
 and most important monasteries 
 in England. Its abbot. Leofric, a 
 nephew of his namesake, the great 
 Earl Leofric of Mercia, “ was so high 
 in the favour of the Confessor and 
 his Queen” that he held 5 abbeys 
 at once — Burton, Coventry, Crow- 
 land and Thorne y, besides Peter- 
 borough. He ruled the great house 
 of St. Peter for 13 years — procured 
 lands and ornaments of all kinds for 
 it, and “gilded the minster so” (i.e., 
 made it so rich in the precious 
 metals) that men called it the 
 “ Golden Burgh.” He joined Harold 
 before the battle of Hastings, and 
 although wounded in the fight, 
 managed to escape, and to return to 
 Peterborough, where he died 3 days 
 later. The monks elected a certain 
 Brand, and sent him to the Atheling 
 Edgar for confirmation — an ignoring 
 of the Conqueror for which they had 
 afterwards to pay ; and on the death 
 of Brand in 1069, William made a 
 firman, named Turold, abbot. He 
 was on his way to take possession, 
 “ with his Frenchmen,” when the 
 monastery was attacked, plundered, 
 and partly burnt, by the famous 
 
66 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Route 2 . — Peterborough : History . 
 
 Hereward, who came up from Ely 
 with a force composed of outlaws, 
 rebellious tenants of the abbey, and 
 the Danes who had come to England 
 witli Sweyne. Turold arrived to 
 find the enemy departed, the monks 
 scattered abroad, and one sick 
 brother alone in the infirmary. It 
 does not appear that the great 
 church, though plundered, was 
 severely injured by the fire, which, 
 says the Chronicle, “ burnt all the 
 monks’ houses, and all the town, 
 except one house.” The treasures 
 were carried off by the Danes, whose 
 ships were driven ashore during a 
 great storm, and the “gold and 
 silver,” placed for security in the ch. 
 of a certain town, whose name is not 
 recorded. But through the drunken- 
 ness of its guardians, the churcli and 
 all that was in it was burned in the 
 night, and the relics of the wealth 
 of the Golden Burgh were lost for 
 ever. (For all this story of the 
 attack on Peterborough by Here- 
 ward. see Freeman’ s ‘Norm. Conq.’ iv. 
 ch. 20.) On the death of the Abbot 
 Turold in 1100, the monks, who had 
 paid 300 marks to the king for the 
 privilege, elected an Englishman, 
 Godric, nephew of their former 
 Abbot Brand. But he was soon 
 deposed ; the abbey remained in the 
 king’s hands for 4 years ; and it was 
 long before a true Englishman again 
 held the abbacy, while the house 
 was rapidly growing in wealth and 
 importance. The privileges said to 
 have been granted to the monastery 
 by the Popes Yitalian and Agatho, 
 are contained in charters branded 
 by Mr. Stubbs as “most shameless 
 forgeries.” By them, the abbot is 
 constituted Legate of Rome all over 
 England, and consequently was en- 
 titled to precedence of all other 
 abbots ; the monastery is exempted 
 from all taxes, and is made a place 
 of pilgrimage equal for the obtaining 
 of pardons to Rome itself. How far 
 these pretended privileges were ever 
 insisted on is not very clear; but 
 
 “Peterborough the Proud,” as it 
 was called, maintained its dignity, 
 and at the outer gateway all visitors, 
 of whatever rank, put off their shoes 
 before entering the holy precincts. 
 
 One version of the English Chro- 
 nicle was continued here to a later 
 period than any of the others, end- 
 ing in 1154, the year of King 
 Stephen’s death. It is full of mis- 
 used and fabricated charters, but is 
 nevertheless of very great import- 
 ance. A later ‘Historia Petrobur- 
 gensis’ was edited by Stapleton for 
 the Camden Soc. This history has 
 borrowed much from the 4 Crowland 
 History’ of the Pseudo-In gulf, on 
 which scholars had looked with 
 much suspicion before its fictitious 
 character was thoroughly exposed 
 by Mr. H. J. Riley (Archaeol. Instit. 
 vol. xix.). 
 
 Of the abbots of Peterborough 
 after the Conquest, those of especial 
 note were, Ernulf, who had been 
 Prior of Ch. Ch. Canterbury, and 
 who became Bp. of Rochester ; John 
 of Seez, who began the choir of the 
 existing cathedral ; Martin of Bee, 
 who continued the work, and 
 governed the house with great pru- 
 dence during the troubled times of 
 Stephen; William de Waterville, 
 and Benedict, who completed the 
 nave (the latter was Cceur-de-Lion’s 
 keeper of the Great Seal); Robert 
 de Sutton ; Richard Ashton and 
 Robert Kirton, who built the eastern 
 transept, or “New Building ;” and 
 John Chambers, the last abbot and 
 first bishop of the new see, erected 
 by Henry VIII. From its position, 
 the monastery, like that of St. Al- 
 ban’s, was often made a resting- 
 place by the kings of England on 
 their way to or from the north. Ed. 
 III., his queen, and court, kept the 
 Easter festival here in 1327 ; on 
 which occasion the abbot, Adam 
 de Botheby, expended nearly 500Z. 
 Cardinal Wolsey kept the same feast 
 here in great state in 1528; but 
 ! although the abbey expended enor- 
 

 
 
PETERBOROUGH CATHEDRAL. 
 
 A Portico, or West Front. 
 
 B Western Transept. 
 
 C Nave. 
 
 D Principal Transept , 
 
 E Choir. 
 
 F Eetrochoir, or “ New Build- 
 ing.” 
 
 G Chapter-house. 
 
 H Music* school. 
 
 1, 2. Closed Doors formerly opening into the Lady-chapel . 
 
 3. Monument of Abbot Andrew. 
 
 4, 5, 6. Effigies of Abbots. 
 
 7. Monument, said to be that of Abbot lledda and his Monks. 
 
 8. Monument of Thomas Deacon. 
 
 9. Effigy of an Abbot. 
 
 10. Stone marking the original tomb of Mary Queen of Scots . 
 
 11. Tomb of Queen Catherine. 
 
 12. Early English Capitals of wood, removed from the Choir. 
 GROUND-PLAN, PETERBOROUGH CATHEDRAL. 
 
 Scale, 100 ft. to 1 in. 
 
 To face p. 67. 
 
Northants. Route 2. — Peterborough : the Cathedral . 
 
 67 
 
 mous sums in entertaining its royal ; 
 and noble visitors, the local rhyme 
 characterizing the great monasteries 
 of the fens indicates that it was 
 scarcely so liberal to those of lower 
 degree — 
 
 “ Ramsay the bounteous of gold and of fee, 
 
 Crowland as courteous as courteous may be, 
 
 Spalding the rich, and Peterborough the 
 proud— 
 
 Sawtrey, by the way, that poor Abbaye, 
 Gave more alms in one day 
 Than all they.” 
 
 John Chambers, the last abbot, who, 
 in the words of Gunton the historian 
 of Peterborough, “ loved to sleep in 
 a whole skin, and desired to die in 
 his nest,” resigned the abbey to the 
 king on the 1st of March, 1540. 
 He was then granted an annual 
 pension of 260k ; but in the follow- 
 ing year letters patent were issued 
 for converting the monastic church 
 into the cathedral of a new diocese, 
 which was to extend over the 
 counties of Northampton and Rut- 
 land, hitherto comprised in the 
 great diocese of Lincoln. The church 
 is said to have been spared as a 
 monument to Catherine of Arragon. 
 Henry VIII., it is asserted, replied 
 to a suggestion, “How well it would 
 become his greatness to erect a fair 
 monument for her” — “Yes, I will 
 leave her one of the goodliest in the 
 kingdom” — meaning the church of 
 Peterborough. The annual value of 
 the monastery, at the Dissolution 
 was 2100Z. Of this the king re- 
 tained one-third in his own hands; 
 assigning 700Z. to the bishop, and 
 700/. for the maintenance of the 
 new dean and chapter. 
 
 The town , or burgh, grew up, as 
 has been said, under the protection 
 of the monastery, and was situated 
 entirely east of the minster, until in 
 1140, Adam Martin of Bee built a 
 bridge over the Nen, and the better 
 houses were gradually moved west- 
 ward. The whole formed but one 
 parish until of late years this was 
 divided into four, and new churches 
 
 were built. The borough, city, and 
 manor are identical. The city has 
 returned 2 members to parliament 
 since the 1st year of Ed. VI. 
 
 The chief, if not the sole, objects 
 of interest in Peterborough are the 
 Cathedral , formerly the church of 
 the great monastery; and the re- 
 mains of the monastic buildings 
 which surround it. These will be 
 described in due order. The great 
 feature of the cathedral is the 
 western front or portico, with its 
 three great open arches. This is 
 perhaps unique ; and has at all 
 events no counterpart in England, 
 although the arches in the W. front 
 of Lincoln may have given the 
 original idea. It has been copied 
 on a smaller scale in some parish 
 churches, as at Snettesham in Nor- 
 folk, which again served as a model 
 for the Cathedral of Fredericton in 
 New Brunswick. Every part of the 
 Cathedral is at all times ( except dur- 
 ing the hours of service ) open to the 
 visitor, without any attendant. Peter- 
 borough is indeed the only Cathedral 
 in England in which this arrange- 
 ment has been attempted, or has 
 been found practicable. 
 
 Before entering the close, the 
 visitor should place himself in front 
 of the market-house, and remark 
 from that point the view of the W. 
 front, and the W. gateway of the 
 abbey precincts, rising just as they 
 did six hundred years ago above 
 the old “burgh.” This western 
 gateway was originally the work of 
 Abbot Benedict (1177-1193) under 
 whom the nave of the cathedral was 
 erected. The Norman vault of the 
 gateway is groined with plain cross- 
 ribs, agreeing exactly with the vault- 
 ing of the aisles; and a Norman 
 arcade remains on either side, one of 
 the arches of which, N. and S., is 
 larger than the rest, and is pierced 
 for a door. The W. front lias been 
 faced with Perp. work, and a Perp. 
 story above the gate has taken the 
 place of a ch apel of S t . Nichol as, which 
 
68 
 
 Route 2 . — Peterborough : the Cathedral. Sect. I. 
 
 formed part of Benedict’s design. The 
 window above the arch on the E. 
 side was part of a Perp. shrine, the 
 rest of which remains in the cathe- 
 dral. It is much to be regretted 
 that the two portions should have 
 been separated. As he passes be- 
 neath the arch, a most striking view 
 of the W. front of the cathedral 
 breaks upon the visitor. Oil the 
 left is the chancel of Becket’s cl iapel, 
 founded by Abbot Benedict, and 
 now forming a part of the Grammar 
 School. On the right is the ancient 
 gateway of the abbot’s lodgings, 
 now that of the Episcopal palace 
 (see post ) ; and in front , across an 
 open space of greensward, rise the 
 three great arches of the W. front, 
 or, strictly speaking, the gigantic 
 W. porch; for the two piers are 
 entirely detached, and stand several 
 feet in advance of the actual wall of 
 the W. front. 
 
 Here it will be desirable to give 
 the dates and architectural character 
 of the principal portions of the 
 cathedral. They are as follows : — 
 
 Choir and eastern aisles of tran- 
 sept (1118-1133, Abbots John of 
 Seez and Martin of Bee) : Early 
 Norman. 
 
 Transept , and probably a small 
 portion of the nave (1155-1177, 
 Abbot William de Waterville) : 
 middle Norman. 
 
 Nave (1177-1193, Abbot Bene- 
 dict) : late Norman. 
 
 Western transept (also in all pro- 
 bability, part of Abbot Benedict’s 
 work): Transition-Norman. 
 
 West front , and remains of the 
 Lady Chapel: Early English. 
 
 Eastern aisle or New Building 
 begun 1438, completed 1496-1528 
 (Abbots Ashton and Kirton): Per- 
 pendicular. 
 
 From the apse of the choir to the 
 west front, therefore, the cathedral 
 affords an excellent example of the 
 gradual changes in style from Early 
 Norman to fully developed Early 
 English ; whilst the Perp. work of 
 
 1 the “New Building” is of scarcely 
 less value. Peterborough takes a 
 very high, if not the highest place 
 among English cathedrals of the 
 second class; and, as has already 
 been said, it has one unique feature 
 — the grand triple arch of its W. 
 front. The entire church is built 
 of Barnackstone, after the usual 
 fashion of this part of Northampton- 
 shire. (For Barnack and its quarries, 
 see Kte. 3.) 
 
 The Western Porch , -which is of 
 the purest E. E. architecture, dates, 
 in all probability, between the years 
 1200 and 1222, during which period 
 Acharius and Bobert of Lindsey 
 were abbots. It is remarkable that 
 neither of the local chroniclers has 
 recorded the building of it, or that 
 of the western transept behind it. 
 The work, however, “seems about 
 coeval with the chapter-house at 
 Lincoln, and the west porch at Ely, 
 both of which were built shortly 
 after 1200, and have very florid and 
 elaborate details. . . . The fineness 
 of the masonry, and the close-joint- 
 ing of the deeply- moulded arch stones 
 are unsurpassed by anything of this 
 period in the kingdom,” F. A. Paley . 
 The front consists of 3 enormous 
 arches, 81 ft. in height, that in the 
 centre being narrower than the other 
 two. These arches are supported 
 by triangular piers, entirely and 
 boldly detached from the W. wall. 
 They are faced with banded shafts ; 
 and beyond these, N. and S. sides, 
 a square turret, capped with a spire 
 and pinnacles. The arches them- 
 selves support gables, much enriched 
 with arcades and niches, and having 
 in each a “ wheel ” window of very 
 beautiful design. A turret, termi- 
 nating in a small spire, rises between 
 each gable. The only additions to 
 the original front are the spires and 
 pinnacles which terminate the flank- 
 ing turrets. These on the S.W. 
 turret are Dec. ; and those of the N. 
 turret are later (Perp.), and remain 
 incomplete. The height from the 
 
69 
 
 Northants. Eoute 2. — Peterborough : the Cathedral. 
 
 ground to the top of the S.W. spire 
 is ] 56 ft. ; the width of the W. front 
 is exactly the same. The incomplete 
 N.W. spire is not so high. All the 
 details deserve the most careful ex- 
 amination. Capitals, leaf-ornaments 
 of shafts, the enrichments of the 
 windows in the gables, are alike 
 graceful, and admirably finished. 
 In a niche at the top of the central 
 gable is a figure of St. Peter. In 
 the 2 side niches are St. Paul and 
 St. Andrew ; the three saints in 
 whose names the ch. was dedicated 
 in 1237. The 6 small figures at the 
 sides of the gable windows are said 
 to be those of Kings of England from 
 the Conquest to the time of erection 
 of the front. In an arcade below are 
 9 figures of Apostles ; and in the 
 spandrels of the great arches are 
 saints and ecclesiastics no longer to 
 be identified. 
 
 Between the central piers of the 
 front, rising to about half their 
 height, and projecting beyond them, 
 is a parvise, or porch, with an upper 
 chamber, added about 1370. It is 
 much enriched, and is in itself a fine 
 composition ; but it injures the uni- 
 form effect of the front ; and was 
 probably erected as an abutment 
 against this original front, which, 
 by a bulging outwards of the pillars, 
 or a settlement of the foundations, 
 was falling forward toward the west, 
 having, in fact, been overweighted 
 by the addition (Dec.) of stone spires 
 and pinnacles to the flanking towers. 
 The bosses on the vault of the porch 
 should be noticed. The room above 
 serves as the Chapter Library. The 
 W. wall of the church, within the 
 great arches, is enriched with various 
 arcades. The three portals are unu- 
 sually fine; and the wooden doors 
 themselves are the original ones, as 
 is shown by the chevron moulding 
 on their interior framework. ‘‘As a 
 portico,” says Fergusson , “ using the 
 term in its classical sense, the W. 
 front of Peterborough is the grandest 
 and finest in Europe ; though want- 
 
 ing in the accompaniments which 
 would enable it to rival some of the 
 great facades of Continental cathe- 
 drals.” The effects of light and 
 shade produced by this “majestick 
 front of columel-work,” as Fuller 
 calls it, are wonderful. 
 
 On entering the cathedral, we find 
 ourselves in the W. transept ; ex- 
 tending across the nave, and pro- 
 jecting one bay beyond the aisle on 
 either side. This transept was an 
 addition to the Norm, nave during 
 the period of the great transition of 
 styles, and, like the nave itself, was 
 probably the work of Abbot Bene- 
 dict (1177-1193). The naves of the 
 neighbouring cathedrals of Ely and 
 Lincoln terminate in a similar man- 
 ner ; but the W. transept of Ely is 
 probably earlier (1174-1189), and 
 that of Lincoln later (1209-1220). 
 The vaulting and arch mouldings 
 are of Trans.-Norm. character, and 
 much enriched. Lofty arches, par- 
 allel with the nave aisles, support 
 towers, of which, except one stage of 
 the N. tower, no portion above the 
 roofs was completed at the same time 
 as the transepts. In the bays be- 
 yond the towers are 2 long windows 
 N. and S., and 2 narrower, E., the 
 tracery of which is E. E. They have 
 transomes, with cusped headings to 
 the lower lights — an unusual and 
 early example. The Norm, clere- 
 story windows above are filled with 
 Perp. tracery. Whether the exist- 
 ing W. wall belonged originally to 
 this transept, or to the E. E. West 
 front, is an architectural problem 
 which must be allowed to remain 
 unsolved. An E. E. arcade, pierced 
 for 3 doorways, runs along it; and 
 above each doorway is a window, 
 with Perp. tracery. A wall passage 
 runs through their jambs. 
 
 The bells, which hang in the 
 N.W. tower, are rung from the floor 
 of this transept. The E. E. font, 
 which has been restored, is placed 
 under the great S. window. The 
 view up the nave aisles, with their 
 
70 
 
 Route 2. — Peterborough : the Cathedral . 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 long perspective of vaulting ribs, is 
 very striking. 
 
 The nave is throughout Norm., 
 the work of Abbots Be Waterville 
 and Benedict (1155-1193); and a 
 continuation of the choir, which was 
 completed in 1133. Peterborough 
 is one of 3 Norm, cathedrals, the 
 other 2 being Ely and Norwich, 
 which are separated by no great dis- 
 tances, and may be advantageously 
 compared. The earliest is Norwich 
 (1091-1119), the original design of 
 which has been least interfered with, 
 and which still affords the most per- 
 fect example of an early Norm. Oh. 
 remaining in England. The nave 
 of Ely, completed in 1174, is nearly 
 contemporary with that of Peter- 
 borough, which it greatly resembles. 
 Peterborough, however, retains its 
 Norm, choir and apse ; and its 
 ground-plan is only second in in- 
 terest to that of Norwich. The di- 
 mensions of the actual nave exceed 
 th< >se of either Ely or Norwich : — 
 
 Peterborough. Ely. Norwich. 
 
 Ft. Ft. Ft. 
 
 Length of nave 211* 203f 200J 
 
 Width of nave $ 33 30 28 
 
 Height ... 81 72-9 69-6 
 
 * From W. transept to W. piers of central 
 tower. 
 
 f From W. transept to octagon. 
 
 % To choir screen. $ Without aisles. 
 
 The choir of Norwich, however, is 
 extended into the nave proper, which 
 measures 250 ft. to the central tower ; 
 and at Ely, the grandeur of the later 
 additions, the great W. tower and 
 the octagon, produces an effect be- 
 fore which Peterborough loses in- 
 definitely. 
 
 The nave, which consists of 10 
 bays, has massive cylindrical piers, 
 with smaller shafts set against them, 
 and well-moulded circ. arches. The 
 triforium , which closely resembles 
 that of Ely, has a wide semicirc. 
 arch, with zigzag moulding, em- 
 bracing 2 smaller ones, divided by 
 a single shaft. The clerestory above 
 has 3 semicirc. arches of which that 
 
 in the centre, higher than the rest, 
 springs from slender shafts, set on 
 the caps, of those below), circum- 
 scribed by a pointed hood-moulding. 
 Waterville’s (the earlier) portion of 
 the nave seems to have extended as 
 far as the fourth pier from the east. 
 The mouldings of bases W. of this 
 point have a distinctly E. E. cha- 
 racter (showing their later date; 
 Benedict assimilated his work to 
 that of his predecessor, and gave it 
 a general Norm, air); and the tym- 
 pana of the triforium eastward are 
 hatched like those in the transepts, 
 whilst the others are plain. There 
 are other minute but distinct points 
 of difference which need not be de- 
 tailed here. The S. side of the nave 
 was evidently built before the N. 
 side, probably to complete the 
 cloister. 
 
 A single shaft rises from the floor 
 to the roof between each bay of the 
 nave. These shafts formerly sup- 
 ported the rafters of the painted 
 ceiling. When the arches of the 
 central tower (see post) were changed 
 from round to pointed, this remark- 
 able ceiling, which is clearly of the 
 12th cent., was raised from a flat 
 form to its present shape, which is 
 half octagonal. It is painted in 
 lozenge-shaped divisions, of which 
 the centra] and alternate lines on 
 each side contain figures, most of 
 which are seated, and represent 
 royal and ecclesiastical personages, 
 intermixed with very curious gro- 
 tesques. These are in colours. The 
 bordering and smaller lozenges are 
 painted in black and white, with 
 narrow red lines. The painting on 
 the upper part of the walls, between 
 the present position of the ceiling 
 and the Norm, cornice on which it 
 originally rested, is work of the 14th 
 cent., when the arches were altered, 
 and the Norm, ceiling was raised to 
 fit them. In this painting on the 
 walls there are shields of arms of 
 the 14th cent., and its general cha- 
 racter is quite distinct Irorn that of 
 
Northants. Route 2. — Peterborough : the Cathedral. 
 
 71 
 
 the ceiling itself. The original de- 
 sign was evidently intended for a 
 flat, painted ceiling ; and although 
 the only other example of such a 
 ceiling known in this country is that 
 at St. Alban’s, there is abundant evi- 
 dence that it was the usual covering 
 of an early Norm, nave ; and indeed 
 of any wide central space, whether 
 nave, chancel, or transept. On the 
 Continent there are many examples 
 of flat ceilings of the 12th cent. 
 
 The vaulting of the nave aisles is 
 Norm., with bold and massive cross- 
 ribs. An arcade of intersecting 
 arches runs below the windows, 
 which are E. E. insertions. They 
 are unusual in form, flat-arched, of 
 3 lights, and have plate tracery. 
 The aisle walls were apparently 
 raised when these windows were in- 
 serted. The triforium is now lighted 
 by large Dec. windows (circa 1360), 
 of 3 lights. It had originally a 
 steep roof, sloping outward. 
 
 In the 3rd bay (from the W.) of 
 the S. aisle is the Abbot’s door , an 
 E. E. portal opening into what was 
 the ancient cloister, and correspond- 
 ing with another portal, in the S. 
 cloister walk, which led to the 
 abbot’s lodgings. 
 
 On the N. side of the great W. 
 door hangs a portrait of Old Scarlett , 
 the sexton who interred Catherine 
 of Arragon and Q. Mary of Scotland, 
 and who died in 1594, aged 98. 
 The arms above are those of the see 
 of Peterborough. There is a poeti- 
 cal inscription, which partly runs : — 
 
 “You see old Scarlett’s picture stand 
 
 on hie, 
 
 But at your feete here doth his body lye. 
 Second to none for strength and sturdye 
 limm, 
 
 A scarebabe mighty voice, with visage grim. 
 He had interd two queenes within this place 
 And this townes householders in his lives 
 space 
 
 Twice over; hut at length his own time 
 came.” 
 
 The portrait is curious as an ex- 
 ample of costume ; but is quite out 
 
 of place here, and moreover is not 
 the original. In the cathedral ac- 
 count books is an entry in 1665, “ to 
 the painter for Old Scarlett’s picture 
 drawing, £1 10s.;” and again, in 
 1747, “ Paid Mr. Clifton for copying 
 Old Scarlett’s picture, £2 12s. 6d.” 
 
 The central tower , at the intersec- 
 tion of the nave and eastern tran- 
 sept, was originally built by Abbot 
 de Waterville (1155-1177), and 
 formed a lantern of 4 stages. (The 
 type may remain in the Norm, tower 
 of Castor; see the present Rte., 
 ante .), It subsequently proved, how- 
 ever, too heavy for the central piers 
 to support ; and in order to prevent 
 the fall of the tower (which had 
 actually taken place at Ely and 
 Winchester), it was taken down 
 nearly as far as the crowns of the 
 great arches. The E. and W. arches 
 were altered from semicircular to 
 pointed ; the Norm, arches, N. and 
 S., which have chevron mouldings, 
 remain. The pointed hoods inserted 
 above the 2 round arches mark real 
 arches of construction, devised to 
 remove the weight from the crowns 
 of the latter. The original Norm, 
 pillars and caps, remain, but have 
 been adapted to the new work in a 
 manner which should be noticed. 
 The existing lantern is Dec. (circ. 
 1340), with 2 lofty windows on each 
 side, filled with Dec. tracery. Grace- 
 ful vaulting shafts of wood, in groups 
 of 3, carry the lierne roof, in the 
 central boss of which is the Saviour 
 holding a globe. The wooden vault- 
 ing, as well as the lightness of the 
 entire lantern, were no doubt ren- 
 dered necessary from the mischief 
 which the weight of the Norm, tower 
 had already caused to the S.E. pier, 
 which is much crippled, and bound 
 with iron. The great pillars on the 
 E. side have in fact settled very con- 
 siderably on their foundations, drag- 
 ging down their adjoining triforium 
 and clerestory arches in a remark- 
 able manner. 
 
 The view from beneath the central 
 
72 
 
 Route 2 . — Peterborough : the Cathedral. Sect. I. 
 
 tower, looking westward, should be 
 noticed. The unusual effect of the 
 W. transept, and of the enriched 
 western wall, with its windows, is 
 well seen from this point. At the 
 N.E. an^le, close outside the choir 
 screen, is placed a pulpit, erected in 
 1873, by the sons of Dr. James, 
 author of a well known treatise on 
 the 4 Collects,’ who died in 1868, 
 having been for 40 years a Canon of 
 Peterborough. The design is by E. 
 M. Barry , B.A. ; the materials, red 
 stone from Dumfries, red Mansfield 
 stone, and marbles from Ireland and 
 from Devonshire. The lower part 
 of the design consists of a large 
 central shaft, with 4 detached co- 
 lumns at the angles, all of marble. 
 The upper part is square, with the 
 corners cut off; and at the 4 corners 
 are attached marble columns, flank- 
 ing figures of the 4 Evangelists, in 
 red Mansfield stone. The whole is 
 massive, and well in keeping with 
 the heaviness of the Norm. nave. 
 
 The eastern arches of both tran- 
 septs belong, like the choir, to the 
 earliest part of the church, built by 
 Abbots John of Seez, and Martin of 
 Bee (1118-1133). The rest of the 
 transepts is the work of Abbot de 
 Water ville (1155-1177). The ar- 
 rangement of both transepts is the 
 same. Each consists of three bays. 
 The termination of each, N. and S., 
 is alike ; each having three tiers of 
 semicircular-headed, windows (the 
 two upper in the lines of the trifo- 
 rium and clerestory), with a wall 
 arcade below the lowest tier. The 
 W. wall of both transepts has the 
 same arrangement of windows ex- 
 cept that the clerestory tier resembles 
 that of the nave, in having a high 
 central light, with a lower arch 
 (forming an arcade passage), on 
 either side. The windows through- 
 out the transepts (except those in 
 the eastern aisles) are filled with 
 Perp. tracery. Modern stained glass 
 has been inserted in many win- 
 dows of the N. transept, and in 
 
 three of those of the ’ S. It is by 
 different artists, and is consequently 
 by no means so satisfactory, as even 
 iuferior glass would be, if designed 
 by the same colourist. 
 
 The eastern aisles are divided from 
 the transept by massive piers, alter- 
 nately round and octangular, sup- 
 porting arches which are slightly 
 stilted. They have plain cushioned 
 caps. A billet-moulding surrounds 
 each arch, which has a plain rib in 
 the soffete. The triforium above 
 resembles that in the nave, except 
 in having many of the tympana 
 hatched. The clerestory is the same 
 as on the W. side : vaulting shafts 
 rise to the roof between the arches ; 
 a chevroned stringcourse runs at the 
 foot of the triforium ; a plain mould- 
 ing above it. The heaviness of the 
 masses, and the style of ornamenta- 
 tion (the billet, chevron, and in- 
 dented or hatched moulding are 
 alone used), sufficiently indicate the 
 early date of these aisles, which pre- 
 cisely resemble the choir in all their 
 details. “ It seems to be one con- 
 tinuous piece of work throughout.” 
 The difference between this portion 
 and the rest of the transept, will be 
 at once recognized, by comparing 
 the mouldings of the entrance arches 
 of the choir-aisles with those into 
 the nave-aisles opposite. 
 
 The ceilings of both transepts are 
 of the same date as that of the nave, 
 which they resemble except in being 
 plainer. They are painted white and 
 black in medallions. Unlike the 
 nave ceiling, however, these of the 
 transepts remain in their original 
 position, and have never been raised. 
 They may therefore lay claim to a 
 yet higher antiquity. 
 
 The eastern aisle of the North 
 transept is divided from the tran- 
 sept itself by oaken screen work of 
 Perp. date, but of no very high in- 
 terest. Some stalls and canopies 
 removed from the choir are placed 
 against the N. wall, among which 
 are three E, Eng. shafts with gilt 
 
North ants. Boute 2. — Peterborough : the Cathedral. 
 
 73 
 
 capitals, should especially be noticed. 
 (At the east end of the chancel in 
 Compton Ch., Surrey, are some small 
 wooden arches of the same date.) 
 The E. wall below the windows is 
 hung with tapestry of the 16th cent., 
 relics, in all probability, of hangings 
 which formerly adorned the choir, 
 representing the delivery of St. Peter 
 from prison, and the healing of the 
 lame man at the gate of the Temple. 
 The windows of this aisle are filled 
 with Perp. tracery, — except the 
 nearest to the choir, which is geo- 
 metrical. A Norm, portal in the 
 N. wall opens to a staircase leading 
 to the roof. The two closed arches 
 in the northern and central bays on 
 the E. side, formed the entrance to a 
 very beautiful Lady Chapel of the 
 E. Eng. period (1274), which, after 
 the Restoration was demolished, for 
 the sake of the materials, in order to 
 repair the great damage which the 
 Cathedral had received from Crom- 
 well’s troopers. The position of 
 this Lady Chapel resembled that of 
 the Lady Chapel at Ely. 
 
 The east side of the South transept 
 is lighted by three E. Eng. windows, 
 the tracery in the heads of which is 
 of the earliest kind, consisting of 
 foliated circles only. This aisle was 
 divided into three chapels, ded. to 
 S. Oswald, S. Benedict, andS. Kyne- 
 burge, by stone partitions of the 
 same date as the aisle itself, one of 
 which has an intersecting Norm, 
 arcade. Brackets on each side of 
 the altars remain in the E. wall. 
 Similar divisions for chapels of E. 
 Eng. date exist in the transepts of 
 Lincoln Cathedral. 
 
 A Dec. doorway in the W. wall of 
 this transept opens to a small build- 
 ing of Trans.-Norm. character, now 
 used partly as a music school, and 
 partly as the Chapter-house. It was 
 anciently known as the “ Chapel of 
 the Ostrie,” a corruption probably of 
 “ hostelry ,5 or guest-house. 
 
 The Cathedral suffers throughout 
 from the want of stained glass. It 
 
 [ Northants, cfcc.] 
 
 was richly furnished in this respect, 
 and retained the greater part of its 
 ancient fittings until long after the 
 Reformation; but in 1643 Peter- 
 borough was visited by Cromwell, 
 on his way to besiege Crowland ; 
 and it is probable that no English 
 Cathedral was more completely “ set 
 to rights,” or underwent more wanton 
 destruction at the hands of the Par- 
 liamentarian troopers. In spite of 
 special orders “to do no injury to the 
 church,” they broke open its doors, 
 and proceeded to shatter the win- 
 dows, to pull down the fittings of 
 the choir, to destroy the organ and 
 the monuments, including those 
 of the two Queens, Catherine and 
 Mary; and to break in pieces the 
 superb reredos of carved stone, 
 painted, gilt, and inlaid with plates 
 of silver. The narrative in the Mer- 
 curius Rusticus asserts that “ one of 
 the soldiers having charged his mus- 
 ket to shatter down the 4 Evan- 
 gelists, in the roof, above the Com- 
 munion Table, by the rebound of 
 his own shot was struck blind.” 
 The cloisters were then pulled com- 
 pletely down (the windows had been 
 filled with stained glass of unusual 
 beauty); and all the charters and 
 evidences belonging to the Cathe- 
 dral were burnt or destroyed. The 
 soldiers appropriated such rich 
 church vestments as they could find; 
 and until their departure they were 
 daily exercised by their officers in 
 the nave of the Cathedral. 
 
 This unusual havoc will account 
 for the present condition of the 
 Choir ; all the ancient furniture of 
 which has disappeared. The heavy 
 Organ Screen , of white stone, was 
 executed under the direction of Dean 
 Monk, before 1830; and the stalls 
 and woodwork are also of that date. 
 
 The choir, as far as the apse, is 
 of 4 bays; the massive piers being 
 entirely hidden by the tabernacle 
 work of the stalls. The arrangement 
 and details of triforium and clerestory 
 precisely resemble those of the east- 
 
 E 
 
74 
 
 Boute 2 . — Peterborough : the Cathedral . Sect. I. 
 
 ern transept aisles, except that the 
 piers 'which alternate with the round 
 ones are ten and twelve sided instead 
 of, octangular. The choir is the 
 recorded work of the two Abbots, 
 John of Seez (1118-1125) and Mar- 
 tin of Bee (1133-1155); the inter- 
 vening Abbot, Henry of Anjou (1127- 
 1133), who lived, according to the 
 Saxon Chronicle, “like a drone in a 
 hive,” did nothing for it. It is pro- 
 bable that little more than the foun- 
 dations were completed by John of 
 Seez. 
 
 The Apse or eastern end of the 
 choir, notwithstanding the changes 
 which have been made in order to 
 connect it with the “ New Building ” 
 beyond, remains a very fine example 
 of a Norman termination. It should 
 be compared with the slightly earlier 
 apse of Norwich (the work of Her- 
 bert Losinga, d. 1119). A Norm, 
 arch, of which only the pillars 
 remain, originally divided the apse 
 from the choir. A modern screen, 
 of Dec. character, richly diapered in 
 gold and colour, extends across the 
 back of the apse. Above the level 
 of this screen were originally three 
 tiers of Norm, windows, five in each 
 tier. The three central windows of 
 the lowest tier were filled with Perp. 
 tracery of the same date as the New 
 Building, into which they look ; 
 portions of the roof, and the stained 
 window at the E. end being visible 
 through them. The two side win- 
 dows of this tier are built up ; but 
 the Dec. tracery which remains in 
 them proves that this tier of windows 
 had been altered before undergoing 
 a second change, on the erection of 
 the New Building. The triforium 
 windows in the second tier, while 
 they retain their circular headings, 
 are, like the clerestory windows 
 above them, filled with Dec. tracery 
 of the same date, and no doubt in- 
 serted at the same time. An inter- 
 secting Norm, arcade is seen below 
 the range of the triforium windows, 
 at the back of the wall passage in 
 
 which they are set. All these win- 
 dows are filled with stained glass, 
 most of which is modern and bad; 
 ,that in the two central lights, how- 
 ever, consists of ancient fragments 
 collected from different parts of the 
 church. Norman pilasters run up 
 between the windows. The slight 
 depression in the arches of the three 
 central openings in each tier should 
 be noticed. 
 
 The flat roof of the apse, like the 
 eastern screen, has been decorated 
 from the designs of Sir G. G. Scott. In 
 the centre is the Saviour in Majesty ; 
 surrounding Him, in medallions 
 placed among the branches of a vine 
 which clusters over the pale-blue 
 ground of the ceiling, are half figures 
 of the Apostles. The whole is bor- 
 dered by an inscription : “ I am the 
 Vine, ye are the branches.” 
 
 The roof of the choir dates appa- 
 rently from the close of the 15th 
 centy. It is of wood, with pendant 
 bosses. The whole has been co- 
 loured, the bosses gilt, and me- 
 dallions containing angels painted 
 between the groining ribs. 
 
 iElfric (d. 1051) and Kinsi (d. 
 1060), Abps. of York, were buried on 
 the S. side of the choir. The latter 
 had been a monk of Peterborough. 
 
 The South Choir Aisle (we enter 
 it from the transept) is of the same 
 date as the choir itself. The windows 
 are early geometrical, of the same 
 date and character as those in the 
 nave. An intersecting N orm. arcade, 
 plainly moulded, lines the wall be- 
 neath them. (It may here be re- 
 marked that, among the differences 
 to be noted between the choir and 
 the transepts, is the distinction of 
 their wall arcades ; that of the choir 
 aisles being double and intersected, 
 that of the transepts single.) The 
 vaulting is the same as that of the 
 eastern transept aisles. 
 
 At the W. end of the S. choir aisle, 
 under a heavy Norm, arch enriched 
 with billet moulding, is an effigy 
 attributed to Abbot Andrew (1193- 
 
75 
 
 North ants. Boute 2. — Peterborough: the Cathedral. 
 
 1200). He treads on a dragon, the 
 mouth of which is pierced by his 
 staff; in his left hand he holds a 
 book (usually placed in the hands of 
 Benedictine Abbots, and supposed 
 to represent the statutes of their 
 order.) On the wall above the effigy 
 are the lines : 
 
 “ Hos tres Abbates quibus est prior Abba 
 Johannes, 
 
 Alter Martinus, Andreas ultimus, nnus 
 
 Hie claudit tumulus. Pro clausis ergo 
 rogemus.” 
 
 Three more effigies of early abbots, 
 said to have been brought from the 
 Chapter-house, are placed under the 
 S. wall of this aisle. All hold the 
 book of statutes. The two eastern- 
 most (the lowest of which is a good 
 example) are of early Dec. character. 
 Another much shattered effigy is 
 placed under the wall of the choir. 
 
 A plain black marble slab, close 
 without the S. door of the choir, 
 marks the tomb in which the remains 
 of Mary Queen of Scots rested until 
 their removal to Westminster. The 
 execution of the Queen took place on 
 Feb. 8, 158f; but it was not until 
 July 30, 1587, that her body was 
 brought from Fotheringhay to Peter- 
 borough for interment. It was con- 
 veyed by torchlight, in a “ chariot ” 
 covered with black cloth, and was 
 met at the entrance of the Cathedral 
 by Bp. Howland, who conducted it 
 in solemn procession to the vault 
 prepared for it, in which it was im- 
 mediately laid. On the following 
 day a funeral service was performed, 
 the Countess of Bedford assisting 
 as chief mourner. The Bp. of Lin- 
 coln preached ; and the heralds broke 
 their staves, and cast them into the 
 vault. Twenty-five years afterwards 
 the body, at the request of Jas. I. 
 (whose autograph letter remains in 
 the possession of the Dean and 
 Chapter), was removed to Westmin- 
 ster, under the care of the Bp. of 
 Coventry and Lichfield, and was in- 
 terred where it now lies, Oct. 11, 
 1612. A lofty “ herse,” hung with 
 
 black velvet, was erected over Queen 
 Mary’s resting place at Peterborough, 
 and was removed, with the body, tq 
 Westminster. John Chambers, the 
 last Abbot and first Bishop of Peter- 
 borough, was interred in this aisle, 
 near the grave of Queen Mary. 
 
 The aisle is disfigured by the 
 backs of the choir stalls. The ex- 
 treme eastern bay of this and of the 
 opposite aisle is E. Eng., and has 
 slender vaulting shafts, with a leafed 
 boss in the centre of the roof. In 
 the S. wall is a good double piscina. 
 The two bays thus formed chapels at 
 the ends of the choir aisles ; the ori- 
 ginal Norm, terminations of which 
 were probably square and not ap- 
 sidal. 
 
 The so-called New Building , which 
 now forms the eastern end of the 
 Cathedral, was begun by Abbot 
 Ashton in 1438, but not finished 
 until the time of Abbot Kirton 
 (1496-1528). It is entered from the 
 choir aisle, through an arch with 
 square ornaments, characteristic of 
 Perp. work, in the hollow of the 
 moulding. The Tudor rose, the 
 pomegranate of Catherine of Arra- 
 gon, the fieur-de-lys, the rebus of 
 Abbot Kirton (a “ kirk ” on a tun) 
 and some armorial bearings, appear 
 among these ornaments. The New 
 Building itself, — the view across 
 which, beyond the arch, is a fine 
 one — is a long parallelogram of 5 
 bays, and forms in effect a third 
 transept, extending across the east- 
 ern end of the church. A similar 
 eastern transept existed at Foun- 
 tains Abbey, and still remains at 
 Durham, where the “ Chapel of the 
 Nine Altars,” as it is called, was 
 the work of Bp. Poore (1228-1241). 
 The want of shrine room for the dis- 
 play of relics, in which Peterborough 
 was especially rich, was no doubt the 
 cause which led to the erection of 
 this transept, which in almost all its 
 details — groined roof, windows, ex- 
 terior battlement, and buttresses — 
 so closely resembles King’s College 
 e 2 
 
76 
 
 Route 2 . — Peterborough : the Cathedral . Sect. I. 
 
 Chapel at Cambridge, that, it has 
 been suggested, “the same master- 
 mind would seem to have conceived 
 both.” (The two buildings were 
 advancing at the same time; and, 
 as at Peterborough, the work at 
 King’s College was stopped for some 
 time after its commencement. It 
 was not finished until 1532.) The 
 beautiful fan-tracery of the roof 
 should especially be noticed. The 
 arms on the bosses are those of Eng- 
 land, Edward the Confessor, and 
 Peterborough. The ancient stained 
 glass, which once filled all the win- 
 dows has disappeared. The central 
 window now contains glass by Hea- 
 ton and Butler (the subjects are the 
 Last Supper, and the Baptism of 
 Our Lord), placed in 1875 as a 
 memorial of Bp. Davys, “ Illustriss. 
 Beginse Victoria Pryeceptoris,” d. 
 1864. At the S. end is a memorial 
 window for Dean Butler, d. 1853. 
 
 The manner in which the Norman 
 choir apse is squared, so as to adapt 
 it to the New Building should be 
 remarked. The Norm, shaft and 
 Norm, wall of the apse remain ; and 
 at the side of the entrance arches 
 these shafts are fitted with Perp. 
 caps. Portions of the Norm, string- 
 course, much weather-worn (for it 
 must be remembered that before the 
 erection of the New Building the 
 apse was unenclosed) may also be 
 observed — as well as the Dec. tracery 
 still remaining in the closed win- 
 dows, N. and S. “ The body of the 
 aperture in the three easternmost is 
 left open, and continued down to the 
 ground in the form of lofty archways, 
 though the lower parts are now 
 blocked by the modern altar screen, 
 as they were formerly by steps lead- 
 ing from the back of the high altar. 
 The marks of these steps may yet be 
 seen in the S.E. archway, within the 
 chapel, as well as the hinges of 
 folding doors, by which the retro- 
 choir, or space behind the high altar, 
 was enclosed.” — Paley. 
 
 Under one of these arches at the 
 
 back of the apse is a small monu- 
 ment of considerable interest. This 
 was long supposed to be the stone 
 erected by Godric, Abbot of Crow- 
 land, over the monks of Medesham- 
 stede (the ancient name of Peter- 
 borough), who, with their Abbot 
 Hedda, were slaughtered by the 
 Danes in 870. But the story of 
 Godric’s care in this matter, and the 
 description of the monument which 
 he raised, rest solely on the spurious 
 narrative of Ingulf; and it has been 
 shown by Mr. M. H. Bloxam, that 
 this memorial, whatever it may be, 
 is a work of the early part of the 
 11th centy. It is a mass, either of 
 Purbeck or of a somewhat similar 
 marble, full of minute shells. Large 
 holes have been bored in it, 3 on 
 one side and 2 on the other, proba- 
 bly for the purpose of fixing candle- 
 sticks. On either of the upright 
 sides are 6 much worn figures, the 
 details of which it is very difficult to 
 distinguish. All have the nimbus — 
 a plain circular beading, except in 
 the case of one of the figures on the 
 E. side, which has the cruciform 
 nimbus distinctive of our Lord. The 
 hair of a figure on the W. side is 
 arranged in rays or semicircles. 
 The dress of all is alike — a long 
 robe, with a shorter sleeved vest- 
 ment over it. The emblems they 
 carry seem to vary ; most have books ; 
 some bear palm-branches. All are 
 under a circular arcade, with a kind 
 of double leaf-ornament springing 
 from the intersections. The sloping 
 top of the stone is divided into 4 
 partitions, with rude sculpture of 
 leafage and birds, one of which may 
 perhaps represent a peacock, a fa- 
 vourite emblem of the Kesurrection. 
 Circles and knots of intersected lines 
 mark the early character of the whole 
 work. The two ends are plain, 
 except that on the S. side the date 
 870 has been carved in modern 
 Arabic numerals. Whatever this 
 monument may really be, it deserves 
 the most careful attention. The 
 
Northants. Route 2. — Peterborough : the Cathedral. 
 
 77 
 
 figures in all probability represent 
 the Saviour and His Apostles. 
 
 On the adjoining wall is the monu- 
 ment of Thomas Deacon (d. 1721), 
 founder of a charity school at Peter- 
 borough, and in many other ways a 
 benefactor to the city. The shat- 
 tered monument W. of this one, was 
 erected during his own lifetime by 
 Sir Humphry Orm, for himself and 
 his family. Before Sir Humphry’s 
 deatii his monument was reduced 
 by Cromwell’s troopers to its present 
 condition. The effigy of an Abbot, 
 of E. Eng. date, is placed in the 
 recess behind the altar ; and on the 
 adjoining wall are the monuments of 
 Bp. Cumberland (d. 1718), author of 
 a volume i De Legibus Nature dis- 
 quisitio Philosophical in refutation 
 of Hobbes, to which reference is 
 made in the inscription ; and of Bp. 
 White Kennett (d. 1728), whose 
 * Parochial Antiquities 9 and 6 Hist, 
 of England’ are still remembered. 
 Against the lower wall of the apse is 
 a monument formed of fragments of 
 various dates, which seem to have 
 been arranged at a very late period, 
 as a memorial of some unknown per- 
 son. The Perp. portions belong to a 
 shrine which contained relics of St. 
 Ebba, the most important part of 
 which now serves as a window in the 
 gatehouse. St. Ebba was the in- 
 structress of St. Etheldreda of Ely, 
 and the sister of Oswald of North- 
 umbria, whose arm was one of the 
 greatest treasures of Peterborough. 
 
 The North Choir Aisle precisely 
 resembles the south ; the first bay 
 being E. Eng. as in that. At its 
 eastern end a very plain marble 
 tablet commemorates Bp. Jeune 
 (1864-1868). One of the original 
 Norm, window openings has been 
 preserved in this aisle, filled, how- 
 ever, with Perp. tracery, and with 
 modern stained glass. It overlooks 
 a slab of blue stone, close to the N. 
 choir door, beneath which still rest 
 the remains of Queen Catherine of 
 Arragon. Here then we contem- 
 
 plate “the humble grave of one to 
 whose existence, though it may be 
 but incidentally, this nation owes 
 the greatest change that ever was 
 brought about in it, and upon the 
 accident of whose burial here de- 
 pended the preservation of this fine 
 Abbey Church, and its conversion 
 into a Cathedral. There is no 
 monument in England that can 
 fairly be called more deeply inter- 
 esting than this one, though few 
 indeed of those who daily trample 
 on it, and are fast obliterating the 
 simple words, “ Queen Catherine, 
 a.d. 1536,” appear to entertain a 
 thought about it. Not one in five 
 hundred, we dare aver, recalls her 
 dying words in Shakspeare’s King 
 Henry VIII. 
 
 “ When I am dead 
 
 Let me be used with honoui' ; strew me o*er 
 With maiden flowers, that all the world may 
 know 
 
 I was a chaste wife to my grave; embalm 
 me, 
 
 Then lay me forth ; although unqueened, yet 
 still 
 
 A queen, and daughter to a king, inter me.’' 
 
 Many banners, with heraldic devices 
 and royal achievements, hung above 
 this tomb; and a lofty herse, coveied 
 with a black velvet pall, marked 
 with a cross of silver tissue, and en- 
 riched on the sides with the arms 
 and badges of Arragon, remained on 
 it until the destruction wrought by 
 Cromwell’s soldiers. Queen Cathe- 
 rine, the closing scene of whose life 
 it is scarcely possible to imagine 
 otherwise than as Shakspeare has 
 painted it, died at Kimbolton Castle 
 in Huntingdonshire, Jan. 8th, 1535, 
 and was interred in this aisle with 
 much of the state befitting “ a queen 
 and daughter to a king.” 
 
 ‘‘We have now gradually built up 
 what may well be called a noble 
 minster; and a glance at the plan 
 thus completed will show a Latin 
 cross, the feet resting on two steps, 
 
78 
 
 i Route 2 . — Peterborough : the Cathedral . 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 and the head terminating originally 
 in an apse, to which however a tran- 
 sept yet farther east has been added. 
 Here then we have a cross of that 
 form which is commonly found in old 
 representations of the Rood, where 
 the figure of the crucified is attended 
 by the blessed Virgin and the be- 
 loved disciple, kneeling one on either 
 side, on a step at the foot of the 
 cross ; while the inscription over the 
 head appears on a scroll crossing 
 the upper part of the tree ... We 
 have then, in the ground-plan of 
 Peterborough, the highest and most 
 completely developed symbolism of 
 the doctrine of the cross, of which a 
 Christian church is capable.” — G. 
 Ayliffe Poole. 
 
 Passing out of the Cathedral, we 
 enter the ch.-yd. on the N. side, the 
 gateway into which has, close ad- 
 joining it, a battlemented arch of 
 entrance to the Deanery (formerly 
 the old Prior’s house), built by Abbot 
 Kirton, who completed the new build- 
 ing. The same arms and emblems 
 appear on it as on the bosses and 
 emblems of his work in the Cathedral. 
 His rebus, a kirk on a tun, is placed 
 over the smaller door. The quiet 
 beauty of the ch.-yd., well kept and 
 judiciously planted, will at once at- 
 tract the visitor. An excellent view 
 of the exterior of the Cathedral is 
 obtained from it ; the best general 
 point being toward the N.E. angle, 
 where the rich Perp. chapel, the 
 Norm, apse towering above it, and 
 the many lines of towers and spires 
 group most picturesquely, and are 
 well contrasted by the surrounding 
 foliage. The group formed by the 
 N.W. transept, with its tower and 
 gable, and the N. spire of the W. 
 front, should be noticed soon after 
 entering the ch.-yd. The transept 
 gables are E. Eng. of the same date 
 and character as the W. front, and of 
 great beauty. The first stage of the 
 N. transept-tower above the roof is 
 
 Trans.-Norm. of the same date as 
 the transept: the upper stage and 
 pinnacles are E. Eng., but of con- 
 siderably later date than the W. 
 front. 
 
 The windows of the nave aisles 
 (late E. Eng.), triforium (Dec.), and 
 clerestory (Perp.) may here be well 
 observed. Flat, pilaster-like but- 
 tresses run up between each bay 
 (Norm.) as high as the string-course 
 above the aisle windows and Dec. 
 above. The upper part may have 
 been added when the aisle walls 
 were raised. The Norm, arcade above 
 the aisle windows marks the height 
 of the old wall, from which the 
 roof sloped steeply backward. The 
 parapet above the clerestory is a late 
 Dec. addition. The N. front of the 
 main transept deserves notice, since 
 it contains the original Norm, window 
 openings filled with Perp. tracery. 
 On the eastern side, the door once 
 leading into the destroyed Lady 
 Chapel remains ; and some arches 
 which lined what formed its S. wall 
 may be traced under the single Norm, 
 window remaining in the N. choir 
 aisle. 
 
 The exterior of the eastern apse is 
 much enriched, and very striking. 
 Buttressed turrets, capped with spires, 
 rise at its junction with the choir 
 An intersecting arcade passes round 
 below the upper tier of windows; 
 and in the parapet above, which is 
 an addition of the early Dec. period, 
 are circular medallions, enclosing 
 trefoils, from which half emerge 
 figures of kings and ecclesiastics. 
 The manner in which the Norm, 
 windows were enlarged and altered 
 is well seen here. 
 
 The New Building has very mass- 
 ive plain buttresses between each 
 bay, on each of which is placed 
 the sitting figure of an Apostle. A 
 rich and graceful parapet fills the 
 space between. This has suffered 
 much from time and decay ; but the 
 initials (R. A., Richard Ashton, and 
 R. K., Robert Kirton) and devices (an 
 
Northants. Route 2. — Peterborough : the Cathedral . 
 
 79 
 
 ash-tree on a tun, and a kirk on a 
 tun) of the builders may still be 
 traced on it and on the buttresses. 
 On the parapet are also the alternate 
 monograms I. H. C. and M. (Jesus 
 and Mary) ; and the string-course 
 over the E. window has the name 
 Karton (Kirton). On that of a 
 window on the S. side it is spelt 
 backwards (Notrak). 
 
 The central tower, as has already 
 been said, dates about 1340. It has 
 2 windows on each side, with a blind 
 arcade of rich tracery between and 
 beyond them. At the angles are 
 octagonal turrets. The tower was 
 originally surmounted by a wooden 
 octagon “ which perhaps bore, or was 
 intended to bear, a timber spire, 
 covered with lead.” The octagon 
 was removed by Dr. Kipling (who 
 became Dean of Peterborough in 
 1798. The turrets, which rise above 
 the tower, were added at this time, 
 and were evidently imitated from 
 those (Norm, with a Perp. battle- 
 ment) at the ends of the great tran- 
 sept. 
 
 Of the monastic buildings there 
 are numerous relics, in spite of great 
 and wanton destruction. The great 
 cloister extended as usual on the S. 
 side of the nave, and was destroyed 
 by Crom well’s troopers in 1643. The 
 inner walls of the S.E. and W. walks 
 remain, and show that the original 
 Norm, cloister was perhaps extended 
 and certainly altered in the 14th and 
 15th cents. At the extreme W. end 
 of the S. walk is a very rich Trans.- 
 Norm. (almost E. Eng.) portal, having 
 an inner round-headed arch with 
 raised foliage. The outer arch, finely 
 and elaborately moulded, is pointed ; 
 and in the tympanum between the 
 two arches is a quatrefoil, w T ith 
 dragons among foliage in the span- 
 drels. The side shafts are detached, 
 with dog-tooth between them. This 
 portal opened to the abbot’s house 
 (now the bishop’s palace), and is 
 placed immediately opposite the 
 “abbot’s door,” in the nave of the 
 
 Cathedral. In the wall E. of this 
 portal is a series of 5 recesses, the 
 backs of 3 of which are enriched. 
 These were lavatories. Eastward 
 again the walk has a rich E. Eng. 
 wall arcade; portions of which are 
 crossed by the arches of a later vault- 
 ing (late Dec.). At the E. end is^a 
 portal resembling the abbot’s, but 
 less rich, which opened to a long 
 vaulted passage. In the E. walk, 
 portions of the vaulting arches re- 
 main against the transept; and on 
 the N. wall are some rich E. Eng. 
 brackets once carrying vaulting. 
 These may have been either in a 
 slype or passage, or in the Chapter- 
 house. The W. walk also shows 
 the remains of vaulting arches, and, 
 traces of 4 portals, now closed, one 
 of which (near the N. end) probably 
 opened to the refectory. A Norm, 
 arch (open), with billet moulding, 
 here gives admission to the cloister, 
 and is carried between the W. walk 
 and the church. 
 
 A long arched passage (late Dec.) 
 led from the E. end of the S. walk 
 to the outer wall of the close. Open- 
 ing from this passage, eastward, are 
 the remains of the infirmary, built 
 by Abbot John de Caux (de Caleto, 
 1248-1261), It is of 7 bays, 3 arches 
 standing open, while the rest are 
 walled up in a house. Clustered 
 piers and mouldings are good and 
 graceful. Grotesques, foliage, and 
 small heads are well sculptured. On 
 the S. side are some remains of the 
 chapel of the infirmary, dedicated to 
 St. Lawrence. From the end of the 
 long passage the situation of the 
 monastery, on ground rising gently 
 from the bank of the Nen, is well 
 seen. The upper part of the city 
 (where is the G. N. station) is still 
 higher. 
 
 Portions of the refectory remain in 
 the walls of one of the bishop’s 
 gardens. The Archdeacon’ s house is 
 partly composed from a hall (a guest 
 hall?) of the 13th cent. The interior 
 is divided by modern partitions, the 
 
80 
 
 Route 2 . — Peterborough : Cl (Ur dies. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 wall separating the hall from the 
 kitchen or buttery remains, and is 
 pierced by 2 round-headed arches. 
 
 Returning to the Close, before the 
 W. front, the Abbot's Gateway , on 
 the S. side, leading to what was 
 once the abbot’s house and is now 
 the episcopal palace, should be espe- 
 cially noticed. The abbot obtained 
 a licence to crenellate a gatehouse 
 and 2 chambers between it and the 
 church in 2nd Ed. II., a.d. 1319; 
 and his work may fairly be identified 
 with this building. It is of early 
 Dec. character, with a groined roof 
 springing from clustered shafts. An 
 arcade lines its interior walls. At 
 the angles are square turrets, in each 
 of which is a niche containing a 
 figure ; a third figure is placed in the 
 gable. The arrangement on either 
 side of this gateway is the same. 
 The statues on the N. side are those 
 of Ed. II., Abbot Godfrey of Crow- 
 land, and the Prior of Peterborough, 
 wearing the Benedictine habit. On 
 the S. side are St. Peter, St. Paul, 
 and St. Andrew, the 3 saints to 
 whom the church was at first dedi- 
 cated. Above the gateway is a room 
 called the Knights’ Chamber, in 
 which guests of distinguished rank 
 were lodged. The windows of this 
 room are later than the gateway itself. 
 
 N. of the main gateway which 
 leads into the Close, is the chancel 
 of a chapel of St. Thomas of Canter- 
 bury, originally founded by Abbots 
 de Waterville and Benedict,— the 
 latter of whom had been a monk of 
 Canterbury at the time of Becket’s 
 murder, of which he wrote a narra- 
 tive. (He brought to Peterborough, 
 after he became abbot, the flagstones 
 on which Becket had fallen, with 
 which he constructed an altar; be- 
 sides other Becket relics.) The 
 chancel, which now serves as the 
 Grammar School, is very late Dec. 
 or rather early Perp. The beautiful 
 tracery of the E. window deserves 
 notice, as does the pierced cross on 
 the gable above it. 
 
 On the N. side of the Cathedral is 
 a singular earthen mound, known as 
 the “Toot hill” ( totten , A -S. = to 
 project), said to have been the site 
 of a tower built by Turold, the first 
 Norm, abbot, for the defence of his 
 monastery. It is possible that it was 
 the mound of a tower ; but it has also i 
 been conjectured that it was formed 
 by the earth thrown up in digging 
 a moat round the precincts., 
 
 There was anciently but one parish 
 of Peterborough, and it is only of late 
 years that this has been divided 
 into 4. The old parish ch. (ded. to 
 St. John the Baptist) stood at first E. 
 of the Cathedral ; but was rebuilt on 
 its present site between 1401-1407. 
 (The abbey gave toward the work 
 the nave of St. Thomas’s chapel — the 
 chancel, now the Grammar School, 
 remaining (see ante). The ch. is 
 therefore Perp., of fine proportions, 
 with very wide chancel arch ; but it 
 is much injured by pews and a 
 flat ceiling, and is of no very high 
 interest. There is some curious em- 
 broidery (portions of vestments or 
 altar frontals worked into a cushion) 
 in the vestry. The S. porch, with a 
 groined roof of stone, and chamber 
 above, and the W. tower, are the best 
 portions of the ch. The churches of 
 the remaining 3 parishes are Long - 
 thorpe , an E. Eng. chapel dating 
 throughout 1262-73, very simple but 
 effective. It was the ancient chapel 
 of St. Botolph. (In this parish, which 
 is really a suburb on the W. of Peter- 
 borough, is a fortified house of the 
 same date as the chapel. It was 
 square, with corner towers, one of 
 which remains. The lower story 
 is vaulted. The windows have 
 shouldered heads. The pyramidal 
 roof is modern.) St. Mark's (Ellis, 
 architect), built 1856; and St. Mary's 
 ( Christian , architect), built 1856. 
 These are of no great importance. 
 Opposite St. Mark’s is a large 
 monastic barn of the 13th centy., 
 
Northants. Route 2. — Milton Park — Crowland. 
 
 81 
 
 worth notice. The Ch. of St. Paul 
 was built in 1869 in the railway- 
 hamlet of “ New England.” 
 
 St. Peter’s Training College for 
 schoolmasters, intended for the sup- 
 ply of the dioceses of Peterborough, 
 Ely, and Lincoln, is a large brick 
 building, completed 1864, from the 
 designs of Sir G. G. Scott . 
 
 The Carr Dyke, on the inland side 
 of the Fens, running from the Nen 
 to the Witham, began at Peter- 
 borough, and was probably a Poman 
 work. It may be well seen at 
 Newark, 1 J m. N.E. of the city, and 
 was about 60 ft. wide with a broad flat 
 bank on each side. “A more judi- 
 cious and well laid out work,” said 
 the engineer Pennie, “ I have never 
 seen.” It was calculated to receive 
 all the highland and flowing waters, 
 preventing them from flooding the 
 lower grounds, and was thus of the 
 nature of an intercepting, or u catch 
 water ” drain. 
 
 Excursions from Peterborough. — 
 A day’s excursion may easily be made 
 to Huntingdon, or St. Neot’s, by G. 
 N. Ply. (see Hunts., Rtes. 1 and 2). 
 Stamford and Burleigh House (see 
 Pte. 3) may also be visited from Peter- 
 borough. The churches of Castor 
 (see the present route, ante) and Bar - 
 nack (Rte. 3) may be seen on the same 
 day; and from the Helpstone Stat. 
 on the rly. between Peterborough and 
 Stamford, an excursion maybe made 
 to Northhorough Ch. and Woodcroft 
 Castle . Peterborough is also the best 
 place from which to visit Crowland , 
 which, although it is over the Lin- 
 colnshire border, is here described. 
 Milton Park is within a pleasant 
 walking distance of the city. 
 
 (a) Milton Park (Hon. Mrs. Fitz- 
 william), about 2J m. W. of Peter- 
 borough, is generally open to pedes- 
 trians, and affords the pleasantest 
 scenery in the immediate neigh- 
 bourhood of the city. It is of some 
 
 extent, and well wooded, although 
 the ground is nowhere very much 
 varied. Milton has been the seat, 
 from an early period, of a branch of 
 the Yorkshire Fitzwilliams, one of 
 whom, Sir William Fitzwilliam, was 
 attached to the household of Wolsev, 
 and received the fallen cardinal 
 here, when on his way to his death- 
 bed in Leicester Abbey. A tree 
 under which Wolsey rested is still 
 shown in the park. The house was 
 nearly rebuilt by the same Fitz- 
 william, and contains portions dating 
 from the first quarter of the 16th 
 centy. Another Sir William Fitz- 
 william was the gentle guardian of 
 Queen Mary at Fotheringhay ; and 
 she gave him, on the morning of 
 her execution, a portrait of James I., 
 as a boy, which hung in her bed- 
 chamber. This picture is now at 
 Milton. 
 
 (b) Crowland is best reached from 
 Peterborough, and the historical anti- 
 quary should on no account neglect 
 visiting a place which is, for him, 
 so full of interest. The distance 
 from Peterborough is 9| m., and 
 those who drive must proceed thence, 
 since no carriage is to be had else- 
 where. The pedestrian, may pro- 
 ceed by rail either to the Peakirk 
 Stat., on the Gt. N. Ply., or to the 
 Eye Stat., on the Midland. The 
 distance of either from Crowland is 
 about 5 m. The approach to Crow- 
 land from Peakirk, along the rt. 
 bank of the Welland, is striking in 
 spite of its monotony, and well shows 
 the remarkable position of the abbey. 
 This walk may be recommended. 
 That from Eye follows a road that 
 would be taken in driving from 
 Peterborough. 
 
 The Peakirk station is on the 
 branch of the Gt. N. that runs 
 to Spalding and Boston, and is 
 6 m. from Peterborough. Here we 
 reach the border of the fens, and 
 find at once a point of connexion 
 with Crowland. Peakirk is the 
 e 3 
 
82 Route 2 . — Northampton to Peterborough. Sect. I. 
 
 church of St. Pega, the sister of St, 
 Guthlac of Crowland, who founded 
 a cell here about the year 716, 
 whilst her brother retired to a yet 
 more desolate stronghold among the 
 marshes. The district was soon 
 attached to the great monastery 
 of Peterborough, but there was an 
 attempt to make it a distinct reli- 
 gious house, and it was not without 
 recourse to the king’s court that 
 Peterborough recovered the rights 
 which had been assailed. The Ch. 
 of Peakirk is interesting. The nave 
 is of 3 bays, with a Norm, round- 
 arched arcade N., and an E. Eng. 
 arcade with pointed arches, S. The 
 clerestory windows are lancets with 
 trefoils. The lofty pointed chancel 
 arch is Transitional, and therefore 
 earlier than the S. arcade. The 
 chancel is Perp., with large windows. 
 There is a N. chantry, with a broad 
 Perp. window, containing some frag- 
 ments of stained glass. Lancets re- 
 main in the nave aisles, and in the 
 S. aisle there are Dec. windows of 3 
 lights. The interior door of the S. 
 porch is good Norm. N. of the E. 
 window, and on a level with its base, 
 is a curious quatrefoiled opening, 
 which, it has been conjectured, may 
 have served for the occasional exhi- 
 bition of a relic (but ?). There was 
 a venerated figure of St. Pega ; and 
 Robert Angell leaves by will, in 
 1566, “unto the repairinge of St. 
 Pees image, ii strike of barley and 
 xx d in money.” In the vestry is the 
 stem of a Dec. lantern, worth notice. 
 The church has been restored, new 
 fittings introduced, and all the 
 windows filled with modern stained 
 glass. A short distance E. of the 
 church is a small desecrated chapel, 
 called the Hermitage. It dates from 
 about 1270. St. Pega, it may be 
 added, after the death of her brother, 
 went to Rome, where she died, and 
 was buried in a church, named, like 
 this, in honour of her. 
 
 From Peakirk the pedestrian will 
 follow the raised road along the 
 
 river. He will find himself in a per- 
 fectly level district, with clumps and 
 lines of trees on the low horizon, 
 marking the sites of farms and 
 villages; deep reed -beds by the 
 river, which constantly overflows its 
 banks ; drains, bariks, and droves 
 (as the roads are called) on all sides, 
 the usual accompaniments of the 
 fens; whilst, if the day be favour- 
 able, the changing lights, the cries 
 of wild birds which haunt the fens, 
 and a certain feeling of space and 
 freedom in spite of (or it may be 
 owing to) the uniform level, “ rounded 
 about by the low wavering sky,” 
 give interest even to this Dutch-like 
 country, especially if the thoughts 
 of the traveller be filled with the 
 ancient glories of Crowland. Long 
 before he is within reach of the 
 abbey, the great tower is seen across 
 the plain, gleaming among its trees ; 
 whilst the village shows a long line 
 of houses, barns, and hayricks, hardly 
 raised above the level of the marsh. 
 Crowland is, however, one of the 
 many “ islands” which even before 
 the days of draining existed in the 
 fens. The “ Wash,” which extends 
 from Peakirk to Spalding, is the re- 
 ceptacle of all the overflowing waters 
 of the Welland. That district is con- 
 stantly flooded ; but the works on the 
 Bedford Level have drained com- 
 pletely the other side of Crowland, so 
 that at present there is hardly suffi- 
 cient water for the pastures. The place 
 is no longer an island, and the corn 
 land is as secure as elsewhere. In 
 monastic days these crops were very 
 uncertain, and the “ bread corn ” of 
 the monks came from remote pos- 
 sessions. The country was then an 
 enormous marsh, abounding in fish 
 and wild fowl — “a wilderness of 
 shallow waters and reedy islets.” 
 
 The long, straggling village of 
 Crowland (inn: the George, where 
 traps can be hired) rose, of course, 
 round the monastery. In entering 
 , it from Peterborough the well-known 
 
Northants. 
 
 Route 2 . — - Crowland . 
 
 83 
 
 triangular bridge is first seen — once 
 necessary for the crossing of the 
 streams which ran down the N., E., 
 and W. streets, and, joining here, 
 passed toward Wisbeach. These 
 streams are now conveyed under- 
 ground, and the bridge serves as 
 the village play-place. It is of late 
 E. E. date, and its 3 steep sides are 
 climbed by rude steps. The mould- 
 ings, ribs, and vaulting should all 
 be noticed. The parapets are plain 
 and solid. On the S. side, a weather- 
 beaten figure, crowned, and holding 
 a globe (?) in the right hand (the 
 other arm has disappeared), sits 
 with a melancholy air. This is 
 Ethelbald of Mercia, founder of the 
 monastery ; but a local tradition 
 asserts at present that the figure 
 represents Oliver Cromwell (the last 
 name of note connected with the 
 abbey), holding a loaf in his hand. 
 
 Crowland (which in spite of fre- 
 quent misspelling — as “ Croyland,” 
 an error which dates from the time 
 of the Domesday Survey, in which 
 the name is written Croiland, and 
 of the etymology of the Pseudo- 
 Ingulf, who makes it the “muddy 
 land” — really signifies the “land 
 of crows”) is indebted for the 
 beginning of its reputation to Guth- 
 lac, a youth of the royal race of 
 Mercia (born 673, died 713), who 
 sought a refuge from the world in 
 the solitude of the great fens. His 
 legend tells of the hosts of evil spirits 
 which assaulted him here, and which 
 he put to flight by incessant prayers 
 and penances. About 710, Ethel- 
 bald, one of the Mercian Athelings, 
 came as a fugitive to Guthlac, who 
 foretold that in due time he would 
 become king. So it fell out; and 
 after the death of Guthlac, Ethel- 
 bald the king built a stone church 
 at Crowland (the earlier buildings 
 were of wood), and endowed the 
 monastery which had gradually been 
 formed by those who gathered round 
 the holy Guthlac. The house thus 
 founded was destroyed in the Danish 
 
 invasion of 866, and the Pseudo- 
 Ingulf gives a very touching history 
 of the murder of the abbot and of the 
 monks and boys who had assembled in 
 the church. But this history is more 
 or less legendary, since the work as- 
 signed to Ingulf is certainly apocry- 
 phal (see post). All we can be as- 
 sured of is that the monastery was 
 then destroyed. A few monks who 
 had escaped set up, we are told, an ora- 
 tory in a corner of the ruined church. 
 There they were found in the days 
 of King Eadred by a clerk of royal 
 race, named Thurcytel, who restored 
 the church and monastery, and be- 
 came the first abbot of the new 
 foundation (946-955), and who passed 
 on his office, by a kind of here- 
 ditary succession, to two of his own 
 kindred. (Full details of all this 
 history will be found in Ingulf, 
 and it need hardly be said that 
 Thurcytel was not likely to find 
 at Crowland any survivors of the 
 Danish “ fury.” To explain this 
 difficulty we are told that three of 
 these original monks died at mar- 
 vellous ages — 168, 142, and 115. 
 They belonged to the “ sempectse,” 
 as the Crowland monks were called 
 after arriving at their 50th year, 
 when great privileges were allowed 
 to them.) The great treasure of the 
 house was still the body of St. 
 Guthlac, whose patron, St. Bartholo- 
 mew, became (together with Guth- 
 lac himself) the “protector” of the 
 monastery. (Guthlac had arrived 
 here on St. Bartholomew’s day. The 
 “ discipline,” or scourge, used by St. 
 Guthlac had once, it was believed, 
 belonged to the apostle, and re- 
 mained one of the most precious 
 relics in the church. Knives (the 
 symbol of St. Bartholomew, referring 
 to his traditional martyrdom by 
 flaying) were given away on his 
 feast-day to all comers, and are still 
 occasionally found at Crowland). 
 In the days of the Confessor, the 
 Abbot Ulfcytel began a new church, 
 toward which he received much 
 
84 
 
 Route 2 . — Northampton to Peterborough. Sect. I. 
 
 help from the famous Waltheof, Earl 
 of Northampton and Huntingdon. 
 (Orderic asserts that Waltheof gave 
 the abbot his “land” of “Bernec” 
 (Barnack) ; but see Barnack , Rte. 
 3). Waltheof s name was therefore 
 greatly honoured at Crowland, and, 
 after his beheading at Winchester 
 in 1076, the monks, through the 
 intercession of his widow Judith, 
 obtained leave from the Conqueror 
 to remove the body of Waltheof to 
 the church of their convent. It was 
 first buried in the chapter-house, 
 but during the rule of Ingulf, suc- 
 cessor of Ulfcytel, it was removed to 
 the founder’s place of honour by the 
 high altar of the church. We are 
 told that the body was still incor- 
 rupt, that the head was again joined 
 to it, and that only a thin line of 
 red marked where the headsman’s 
 axe had fallen. Miracles had already 
 been wrought at the tomb, and be- 
 came more numerous after the trans- 
 lation. Abbot Geofiry, Ingulfs suc- 
 cessor, saw in vision the hero’s tomb 
 open, with St. Bartholomew holding 
 the head of the body and St. Guthlac 
 the feet. “ He was an earl,” said 
 Guthlac. “ And now a king,” added 
 the apostle. An epitaph, in Latin 
 hexameters, was composed for the 
 tomb of Waltheof by Ordericus 
 Vitalis, who spent five weeks at 
 Crowland about the year 1130 — a 
 visit to which we are indebted for 
 all that is certainly known of the 
 early history of the monastery. The 
 account of Crowland will be found 
 in Ord. Vital, lib. iv. With respect 
 to the authenticity of the history 
 assigned to the Abbot Ingulf, it may 
 be sufficient to refer to the papers 
 of Mr. H. T. Riley, in the ‘Archaeo- 
 logical Journal,’ vol. xix. pp. 32 
 and 114. Doubts had long been 
 entertained by scholars, and Mr. 
 Riley’s thorough examination of the 
 history, and the charters inserted 
 in it, has left no doubt at all about 
 their character. They are forgeries, 
 and compilations of the 15th cent. 
 
 The later story of Crowland has 
 no very marked character. The 
 annual value at the suppression was 
 1217Z. 5s. Ill d.— Speed. 
 
 The existing remains are those of 
 the monastic church , one aisle of 
 which now serves as that of the 
 parish. Ulfcytel, as we have seen, 
 began a new church in the days of 
 the Confessor. This, it is said, was 
 entirely destroyed by fire in 1091. 
 Abbot Geofiry began a great re- 
 building in 1113. An earthquake, 
 in 1118, threw down part of this new 
 work, which was, however, at once 
 restored. In the E. E. period the 
 W. front of the nave was added. 
 Considerable works were done in the 
 time of Abbot Overton, in 1405 and 
 the following years. The body of 
 the church (the nave and aisles) was, 
 in fact, rebuilt, together with the 
 transepts and the Lady Chapel. 
 The upper part of the W. front was 
 also reconstructed at this time, or a 
 little earlier. A tower, W. of the 
 N. aisle, was built in 1427. The N. 
 nave aisle was vaulted by Abbot 
 Litlington, about 1464; and at a 
 still later period was added a W. 
 porch with a room above it. Por- 
 tions of all these periods remain in 
 the existing ruin, which, interesting 
 as it is, strikes us as scanty and 
 hardly important in proportion to 
 the reputation of the house. The 
 Perp. work is not specially remark- 
 able. But the great times of Crow- 
 land were over when the rebuilding 
 of the church began, and apparently 
 the earlier church had become much 
 ruined. (This is indicated by the 
 manner in which the Perp. work is 
 brought up to the Norm, tower arch.) 
 Probably, in the 15th centy. there 
 was no such resort to the shrines of 
 Waltheof and of Guthlac as had 
 brought wealth to the church in its 
 earlier days. The house however was 
 always famous for its hospitality, 
 and “ Crowland as courteous as 
 courteous may be ” is the character 
 given to it (see ante , Peterborough) 
 
Northants. 
 
 Route 2 . — Crowland Church . 
 
 85 
 
 in verses which describe the great 
 monasteries of the fens. The curious 
 expression, “ curst Crowland,” which 
 is also found, seems due to a cor- 
 ruption of “ courteous.” 
 
 The W. front of the church con- 
 sists of the tower at the end of the 
 N. aisle (now the parish church), 
 and porch projecting from it; the 
 ruined front of the nave, and a frag- 
 ment of the front of the S. aisle. 
 All this ruined portion was in 1860 
 in a very unsafe condition, and 
 masses had fallen from above the 
 great W. window. It was placed in 
 the hands of Sir G. G. Scott , who, 
 by the aid of powerful screw-jacks, 
 brought the whole mass back into 
 position, renewed and secured the 
 foundations, took down and rebuilt 
 half the arcaded front of the S. aisle, 
 and underpinned and strengthened 
 other portions. It was found that 
 the whole had been built directly 
 on the peat soil, more than a foot of 
 which was still compressed between 
 the foundation and the bed of gravel 
 below. This was remedied ; and the 
 most ancient portion of the great 
 church is now safe. 
 
 The lower part of the front, with 
 the portal, and the 2 arches with 
 canopied niches on either side of the 
 W. window, are E. E., of pure and 
 very beautiful character. The great 
 window itself, from which the tracery 
 has vanished, and the upper tiers of 
 niches, are Perp. This Perp. window 
 succeeded a rich E. E. triplet, of 
 which the jambs and shafts remain on 
 the eastern side of the wall. The W. 
 portal is divided by a central shaft ; 
 and in the tympanum is a large and 
 deep qua trefoil in which are sculp- 
 tured 5 scenes from the life of St. 
 Guthlac. (Compare the E. E. portal 
 and sculpture at Higham Ferrers , 
 Kte. 2). The figures which remain 
 in the upper niches of the front, 
 seem to be (at the top) the Apostles 
 under canopies, — the Saviour and 
 the Virgin in the centre. Below are 
 bishops, knights, and kings, not 
 
 ’ easily identified. The small portion 
 of the S. aisle front is part of the 
 church begun by Abbot Geofiry in 
 1113. It shows remains of arcades, 
 some of them intersecting. The two 
 W. buttresses of the nave, the mass 
 of which is Perp., are built over the 
 late Norm, buttresses, still partly 
 visible. 
 
 Within , the ruined nave displays 
 the Perp. rebuilding of 1405. It was 
 of 9 bays from the W. front to the 
 central tower, the Norm, arch of which 
 remains, walled up. Three entire 
 arches of the S. arcade (Perp.) re- 
 main. There are traces of the Norman 
 arcade and triforium in the wall ad- 
 joining the tower arch ; but the last 
 Perp. arch (of the height of the 
 Norm, triforium) is filled half-way 
 up with solid masonry, panelled on 
 the W. front. This was evidently 
 intended as a support to the tower. 
 The Norm, tower arch is lofty, with 
 zigzag moulding. The wall now 
 filling it is built up with fragments 
 of all sorts, — partly perhaps from the 
 choir, which stretched far eastward, 
 but has quite disappeared. 
 
 The tower , at the end of the N. aisle, 
 was built, as we know, in 1427 ,* no 
 doubt as a campanile, since the great 
 central tower must then have been 
 too weak for hanging the bells. The 
 aisle within (now the parish church) 
 is pewed and galleried, and hardly 
 suggests recollections of St. Guthlac 
 or of Waltheof. The eastern part of 
 the great church, with the transepts, 
 was taken down soon after the Disso- 
 lution. Thenave and aisles remained, 
 and served as the parish church till 
 the close of the 17th centy., when the 
 nave-roof fell in, and the S. aisle 
 became ruinous. The N. aisle was 
 then fitted as at present ; and it seems 
 probable that before the Dissolution, 
 this aisle (then called the lower ch.) 
 had already been appropriated to 
 the parish. The tower within has 
 lofty Perp. arches N. and S. ; on the 
 E. side the arrangement is peculiar. 
 Below is an open Perp. arch, ad- 
 
86 
 
 Boute 3 . — Peterborough to Stamford. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 mitting to the aisle; and above it, 
 rising to the height of the side arches, 
 is a second arch or window, filled 
 with Perp. open tracery. On the W. 
 side the arch rises to the full height, 
 and a closed gallery runs across 
 below the Perp. window. It may be 
 here noticed that a fragment of the 
 Norm. W. front of this aisle remains 
 between the porch and the tower, 
 but can only be seen by climbing to 
 it. In the aisle, remark the fine 
 bosses of the roof, and the open-work 
 (Perp.) rood-screen, which must have 
 been removed here from the great 
 church. Two chapels, divided by a 
 wall, opened N. from this aisle. There 
 are no monuments of interest; and 
 the bells (except perhaps the first) 
 are not ancient. The old bells of 
 Crowland were famous, and one of the 
 earliest “rings” in England. 
 
 East of the great church was what 
 was known as “Anchor Church 
 House” (Anchorage), built, it was 
 asserted, on the site of Guthlac's first 
 cell. A hillock marks the place, 
 and “an old decayed building” was 
 pulled down in 1720. 
 
 Crowland was garrisoned, and the 
 abbey fortified, by the Royalists in 
 1643. An unfortunate Mr. Ram, the 
 Vicar of Spalding, had busied him- 
 self on the side of the Parliament, 
 and having been taken by Captain 
 Welbv, who commanded the king’s 
 troops in Crowland, he was brought 
 out and placed in front of the breast- 
 work when Cromwell’s troops came 
 to assault the place. They, it is said, 
 mistook him for the Royalist priest 
 of the town, and directed their shot 
 against him for many days, but with- 
 out much injury to him. The place 
 was taken by Cromwell, May 9, 1643. 
 
 ROUTE 3. 
 
 PETERBOROUGH TO STAMFORD 
 (BURGHLEY). 
 
 Midland Bailway. 
 
 (Stamford may be reached from 
 Peterborough either by the branch 
 line which runs from the Sibson 
 Stat. on the L. and N. W. line (Rte. 
 2), and which has stations at Ufford 
 Bridge and Barnack ; or by the Mid- 
 land line, followed in the present 
 route. This is the shorter journey, 
 the time occupied being about | hr. 
 By the Sibson line it is nearly f hr. 
 This latter is the most convenient 
 for those who wish to visit Barnack, 
 although that place may also be 
 reached by the present route. The 
 Sibson trains leave Peterborough from 
 the station across the Nen.) 
 
 Leaving Peterborough from the 
 upper station (that of the Gt. N. and 
 Midland Rlys.), we proceed for some 
 time (until leaving the Plelpston 
 Stat.) in a parallel course with the 
 Gt. N. Rly., which runs to the rt. 
 We pass through a district of no 
 great interest to the first station at 
 
 Walton. This is a hamlet in the 
 parish of Paston , the Church of which 
 lies i m. rt. The nave is Perp. ; the 
 chancel and adjoining N. chantry 
 E. E., as is the W. tower, on which 
 is set a very graceful broach spire 
 of about 1320. The stair-turret, 
 with its pointed roof, is a striking 
 addition to the whole composition. 
 This tower and spire are the chief 
 points of interest here. [The little 
 church of Werrington, 1 m. N., an- 
 other hamlet of Paston, has Norm. 
 E. E. and Dec. portions. Marholme , 
 1J m. W. of the Walton Station (St. 
 Mary’s holme— the ch. is ded. to her) 
 
87 
 
 Northants. Route 3 . — Helpston — Woodcraft Castle . 
 
 is more important. The low tower 
 may be E. E. ; the nave, arches, and 
 the chancel arch date from about 
 1300. The chancel was rebuilt at the 
 cost of Sir William Fitzwilliam, of 
 Milton (1524-1534). There are some 
 remains of stained glass in the chan- 
 cel, besides portions of achievements 
 and armour belonging to the Fitz- 
 william3, for whom also there are 
 some monuments. (1) Brasses of Sir 
 William Fitzwilliam (d. 1534) and 
 wife, in heraldic dresses. He was the 
 re-builder of the chancel, and had 
 been one of the retainers of Wolsey, 
 whom he received at Milton (see 
 Rte. 2, Milton). The canopy is car- 
 ried on twisted iron bars and stone 
 spiral shafts. (2) An altar-tomb, with 
 coloured effigies of another Sir W. 
 Fitzwilliam, “ Lord-Lieutenant of ye 
 Kingdom of Ireland,” and wife (date 
 1529). He is in armour. (3) A small 
 marble pillar for a son of Lady Fitz- 
 william, 1646. The inscription runs : 
 
 “ Grassante bello civili, 
 
 To the courteous soldier. 
 
 Noe crucifixe you see, noe Frightful Brand, 
 Of sup r stition’s here. Pray let mee stand.” 
 
 (4) A vast erection, partly blocking 
 two windows, with full-length stand- 
 ing effigies of Earl Fitzwilliam, 1719, 
 and his wife Anna, 1727 ; “Jacob. 
 Fisher de Camberwell fecit.” The 
 church was restored in 1868.] 
 
 The next Station is reached at 
 
 Helpston. The market -town of 
 Market- Deeping (see Handbook for 
 Lincolnshire , — it is just across the 
 border) is distant 4 m. The village 
 of Helpston lies J m. 1. of the stat. 
 The Church is of some interest, E. E. 
 and Dec., but much altered. There 
 is a good Dec. window at the E. end 
 of the S. aisle ; and the square tower, 
 which dies into an octagon, is sur- 
 mounted by a low spire. This tower 
 has been entirely rebuilt with the 
 old materials, but is said to be “ri- 
 gorously identical” with the former. 
 It is Norm, below, and above of the 
 
 14th centy. In the N. aisle is the 
 matrix of a brass for Roger de Heg- 
 ham, who died between 1297-1310. 
 In pulling down the tower, it was 
 found that the foundations were Sax- 
 on, with long-and-short work. Some^ 
 early headstones also were found. A 
 cross, raised on steps, probably of the 
 same date as the upper part of the 
 tower, stands in the village; and 
 near it is a monument, erected in 
 1869, as a memorial of John Clare, 
 the “peasant-poet” of Northampton- 
 shire, born here in 1793, of parents 
 then receiving parish relief. He 
 died, 1864, in the Lunatic Asylum 
 at Northampton, where he had been 
 placed for some years. (A 4 Life of 
 Clare,’ by F. Martin, was published 
 by Macmillan in 1865.) There are 
 large mills at Helpston for the manu- 
 facture of air-dried brown paper. 
 
 [An interesting excursion may be 
 made from this station to Woodcroft 
 Castle and to the manor-house and 
 church of Northborough — a round 
 (returning to the station) of about 
 6 m. The village of Etton , in which 
 par. Woodcroft stands is about 1J m. 
 N. of Helpston Station. Woodcroft 
 is between the station and the village, 
 and should be first visited. Although 
 called a castle, it is in fact a good 
 example of a manor-house of the 
 time of Edw. I. and was hardly 
 designed for a place of strength. 
 Hubert and Roger of Woodcroft held 
 property here in the reigns of Edw. I. 
 and II., and a certain Lawrence of 
 Preston also held part of a knight’s 
 fee at Woodcroft, under the abbot of 
 Peterborough, at the same period. 
 To one of these persons the house 
 may be assigned. It is surrounded 
 by a moat which washes the walls in 
 one part ; and the house consists of 
 two portions, one more than twice as 
 long as the other. These meet at 
 a right angle, and in this corner is a 
 small round tower. In the centre of 
 the longer wing is the gateway, 
 which leads completely through the 
 
Route 3 . — Peterborough to Stamford . Sect. I. 
 
 house, without doors on either side. 
 The entrance to the interior is by a 
 door at the junction of the 2 wings. 
 The greater part of the house has 
 only 2 stories, but over the gateway 
 there is a 3rd, so as to form a sort of 
 tower ; and here is said to have been 
 the chapel. The round tower has 
 also a 3rd storey, and there was 
 originally a round tower at each end 
 (now destroyed). The towers have 
 a plain parapet, and do not seem to 
 have been embattled. The windows 
 on the ground-floor are small. Those 
 of the upper story are all of one 
 light with a transom. The basement 
 has no original communication with 
 the rest of the house, and may there- 
 fore have been used for storage. 
 The space enclosed by the moat is 
 nearly square, the house occupying 
 one side and part of another. The 
 quadrangle may have been com- 
 pleted by offices built of wood and 
 plaster, as at the Mote at Ightham 
 in Kent. The interior is so com- 
 pletely modernized that nothing can 
 he made out of the old arrangement. 
 It has been suggested that the design 
 of the house, which is unusual, may 
 have been supplied by some architect 
 from Normandy, employed by John 
 of Caux, the Abbot of Peterborough, 
 who at the same time was building 
 the Infirmary there. In 1648 Wood- 
 croft was held out for a short time 
 by Dr. Michael Hudson, one of 
 Charles I/s chaplains, with a handful 
 of men, against the troops of the 
 Parliament. The place was taken. 
 “The projecting gurgoyle from the 
 parapet is still shown, to which 
 Hudson clung, till the assailants, 
 who had gained the tower chopped 
 off his fingers, and he fell into the 
 moat below. Here, while he was 
 swimming to shore, the soldiers 
 killed him with their pikes.” — James. 
 Hudson is in part the original of 
 Dr. Rochecliffe in ‘ Woodstock,’ and 
 his story has been made to play an 
 important part in the novel. 
 
 The Church of Etton has early 
 
 portions but is of no great interest. 
 1| m. N. E. is Northborough , which 
 deserves a visit. The Church dates 
 from the middle of the 14th cent., 
 and the S. aisle is, in especial, of 
 beautiful design and execution ; 
 with richly traceried windows, the 
 mouldings of which are much orna- 
 mented with the ball-flower. Under- 
 neath is a spacious vault, and under 
 the large S. window 2 arched re- 
 cesses, now without effigies. But in 
 the ch.-yd. of the adjoining par. of 
 Glinton are 2 mutilated stone effi- 
 gies, of a knight and lady, temp. 
 Edw. III. The knight, besides his 
 sword, has a bugle horn suspended 
 from his side, the badge of a forester. 
 The Delamares were foresters of 
 Kesteven; and the effigies may be 
 those of Geoffry Delamare and his 
 wife, daughter of Geoffry le Scrope, 
 — the last of their family here, and 
 the builders of the manor-house and 
 church of Northborough. How the 
 effigies were removed from the church 
 is not clear. The Manor-house , once 
 much larger, stands at no great dis- 
 tance, and is of the same date as 
 the church. The remains consist of 
 gatehouse and hall, forming opposite 
 sides of a court, with some portions 
 of buildings adjoining the hall. It 
 was perhaps at first a quadrangle. 
 The gatehouse has lost its top. The 
 hall, 36 ft. by 24, is lighted by square 
 headed, transomed windows, 2 on 
 each side. The external details are 
 excellent. There is a continued 
 ball-flower ornament, in a deeply 
 hollowed moulding, under the eaves, 
 and the W. gable is enriched with 
 crockets, and terminated by a small, 
 well designed chimney. Within, the 
 doors of the screen remain, and are 
 richly ornamented with crockets and 
 ball-flower. The cross-building pro- 
 bably contained a portion of the 
 buttery, kitchens, and offices. N., 
 and opening into the hall, is a porch 
 of Hen. VII. ’s time: and connected 
 with the gatehouse is a range of 
 stabling erected in the reign of 
 
Northants. 
 
 Route 3 . — Uffington — Barnack. 
 
 89 
 
 Ch. I. (There are some remains 
 of an ancient parsonage house at 
 Market Deeping which should be 
 compared with Woodcroft and North- 
 borough.) This venerable house 
 came eventually into the hands of 
 the Olaypoles, one of whom, John 
 Claypole, married Elizabeth, the 
 favourite daughter of Cromwell. She 
 died here, but was buried in West- 
 minster Abbey. Her mother, how- 
 ever, the wife of the Protector, who 
 also died here, was buried in the 
 church of Northborough, where there 
 are some Claypole memorials. 
 
 (The Church of Maxey lies 2 m. 
 W. of Northborough. It has a Norm, 
 nave, and a Norm, tower of 3 stages, 
 enriched with an external arcade. 
 The whole church, restored 1864, 
 deserves notice. The King Street, 
 an ancient road which branched due 
 N. from the Ermine Street at Castor 
 crosses the Welland a little W. of 
 Maxey church; and the ruins of 
 Lolham Bridges (11 arches remain) 
 indicate its line). 
 
 The return to Helpston Stat. may 
 be by the village of Glinton , where 
 the Ch. is interesting. It belongs 
 mainly to the second half of the 14th 
 centy. The E. window is Perp. The 
 font is Norm. The tower carries a 
 lofty ‘‘needle” spire.] 
 
 Leaving the station at Helpston, 
 the rly. bends round westward, and 
 ceases to run parallel with the Gt. 
 N. line. There is nothing to be 
 noted until we reach the 
 
 TJffington and Barnack Station. 
 Uffington, on the Lincolnshire side 
 of the Welland, lies about 1 m. N. 
 of the station. Barnack, 1J m. S., 
 but much nearer to the Barnack 
 Station on the short rly. from Sibson 
 to Stamford (see Rte. 2). The church 
 of Uffington is E. E. (nave arcades) 
 late Dec. (chancel), and Perp. (tower 
 and spire and N. chantry). The 
 tower and spire are very good. The 
 roof and chancel arch were curiously 
 plastered and painted in 1684. The 
 
 N. chantry, rich in modern stained 
 glass is the “ chapel ” of Lord Kes- 
 teven, whose seat is at Casewick, 1 
 m. distant. Far more important 
 and attractive, however, is Barnack , 
 famous for its ancient stone quarries, 
 and still more famous for its church. 
 The tower of Barnack is one of the 
 most interesting examples in this 
 country, of the earlier Romanesque 
 (see for some remarks on this subject, 
 Rte. 2, EarVs Barton ), as it was 
 developed in England before the 
 Norman Conquest. The church con- 
 sists of W. tower, nave, and aisles, 
 chancel, and N. and S. chantries. 
 
 The tower has long-and -short work 
 at the angles, and narrow, square- 
 edged bands of stone project from all 
 four walls at intervals. A plain 
 string-course, of the same character 
 as the upright ribs, runs horizontally 
 along the walls, dividing the tower 
 about midway. On the S. side, over 
 a small window is a rude carving of 
 two birds ; and above this is the 
 trace of a circular sun-dial. (This 
 occurs also at Earl’s Barton.) Higher 
 up is a small window opening, pierced 
 with a peculiar pattern. Resting on 
 the middle string-course, in the 
 centre of the S., W., and N. sides, is 
 a stone about 6 ft. high and 2 ft. 
 broad, built upright into the wall. 
 On each stone is rude carving ; the 
 design being an upright staff with 
 many offsets, curled and twisted. On 
 the summit of the staff is perched 
 a bird. A doorway, the triangular 
 heading of which is formed by 2 
 slabs of stone set edgeways, has been 
 blocked up. The tower is built of 
 Barnack rag. It is not so massive, 
 so rude, or so enriched with stone 
 strips, as Earl’s Barton; but the 
 general character is the same, and 
 we have the same impression of 
 remote antiquity. How far the 
 peculiar carvings and ornaments 
 indicate a Danish builder is uncer- 
 tain ; but the population of this part 
 of England was, and for a long time 
 continued, if not entirely Danish, yet 
 
90 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Route 3 . — Peterborough to Stamford . 
 
 penetrated by Danish influence, 
 which we may suppose extended to 
 art as well as to language. 
 
 On the upper part of the tower is 
 set an E. E. octagon, flanked by 4 
 pinnacles, and surmounted by a low 
 broach spire. There is an excellently 
 designed belfry window at each of 
 the cardinal points ; and the whole 
 unites in a very striking manner 
 with the more ancient tower. 
 
 Within the church the tower arch 
 must be first noticed. It is semi- 
 circular, and the imposts, with pro- 
 jecting ribs of stone, are quite unlike 
 any others of even this early period. 
 (They can only be understood by 
 drawings.) This, the original arch, 
 is stopped with E. E. work, in which 
 is set a good E. E. portal. The 
 change of the primitive church was 
 begun early in the 1 2th cent., when 
 the arcade of the N. nave aisle was 
 built. This aisle must have been an 
 addition. The arcade has tall shafts, 
 with richly carved caps, and richly 
 moulded arches. The S. aisle was 
 added at the beginning of the E. E. 
 period; and the arcade has banded 
 shafts, though the arches remain 
 circular. To it is attached one of 
 the most beautiful porches in this 
 part of the country. It has a lofty 
 entrance arch, with excellent mould- 
 ings, shafts, and caps. ; and within 
 on each side is an arcade of 4 arches. 
 The roof is a high pointed gable, of 
 stone without, and vaulted within. 
 In the Dec. period many changes 
 were made in aisles and chancel. 
 The E. window, the piscina and 
 sedilia are of this date. (There are 
 fragments of Dec. glass in the 
 window.) The S. and N. chantries 
 are Perp. In the S. chantry, which 
 is much enriched, is a niche over the 
 N. side of the altar, containing a 
 sculpture of the Immaculate Concep- 
 tion (?). The church contains one 
 or two canopied tombs, and 2 effigies 
 brought from the demolished chapel 
 of Pilsgate ; but while each portion 
 of the building is interesting the 
 
 tower remains the great object of 
 attraction to archaeologists. It may 
 be added that there is a local tradi- 
 tion that the church was burnt by 
 the Danish , S wend ; and that the 
 tower was built in reparation by his 
 son Canute. It is asserted that, 
 before the Conquest, Barnack be- 
 longed, first to the Peterborough 
 monastery, and afterwards, by grant 
 of Waltheof, to Crowland. But this 
 is doubtful ; since the Domesday 
 survey gives us Bundi as the pos- 
 sessor in King Edward’s days. 
 William Fitz Ansculf was the first 
 Norman Lord. Then came a family 
 named from the place, “de Bernak 
 and at last it passed into the hands 
 of the Cecils. Monastic houses like 
 Peterborough and Crowland coveted 
 Barnack for the sake of its quarries , 
 famous from a very early period, but 
 no longer worked. They have in 
 fact been exhausted for nearly 4 
 centuries ; and the strangely broken 
 and tossed ground near the village, 
 which marks their site, is known as 
 the “Hills and Holes.” It is im- 
 possible to look without much 
 interest on the place from which 
 the building stone was procured for 
 so many great churches and mona- 
 steries. It belongs to an upper bed 
 of the inferior oolite ; and is very full 
 of shells, some of the beds being com- 
 posed almost entirely of shells aggluti- 
 natedbya kind of calcareous cement. 
 The stone is very hard and durable, 
 qualities which were soon discovered 
 by builders throughout eastern Eng- 
 land. No precisely similar stone is 
 now worked ; but that of the Weldon 
 quarries (see Rte. 10) is perhaps the 
 equivalent of the Barnack beds. 
 
 [2 m. S. W. of Barnack is Witter- 
 ing, lying on the old great north 
 road. ( On the way is passed Walcot 
 Hall , R. H. C. Nevile, Esq.) For 
 Wittering church, which, like Bar- 
 nack, has some very early portions, 
 see Rte. 2, where the line from 
 Sibson to Stamford is described.] 
 
Northants. 
 
 Route 3 . — Stamford: History . 
 
 91 
 
 Returning to the railway, we soon 
 reach the next station at 
 
 Stamford. (There are here 2 sta- 
 tions, one belonging to the line we 
 have been following ; another in 
 connexion with the branch of the 
 G. N. R., running from Stamford to 
 Essendine. For the continuation of 
 the Midland line from Stamford, see 
 Rte. 13.) Pop. in 1871, 7897. Hotels: 
 “ The Hotel,” in St. Mary’s-street, 
 begun 1810, from designs by Bond , 
 finished 1829. The figure of Justice 
 which crowns it is by Bosse , R.A. 
 The George (best), in St. Martin’s ; 
 a large, somewhat gaunt hostel, 
 conveniently placed on what used 
 to be the “ Great North road.” This 
 inn was famous in the days of 
 coaches and highwaymen. The 
 latter much frequented the roads 
 about Stamford. It may have been 
 at this inn that Thoresby, the Leeds 
 antiquary, was detained for 4 days 
 by the state of the roads (temp. Chas. 
 II.), and was relieved by a com- 
 pany of 14 M. P.s travelling to- 
 ward London, who took him into 
 their party, and set forward with 
 competent guides. Porteous, Bp. of 
 London, married a daughter of the 
 landlord. On the front are the coats 
 of arms of persons connected with 
 the neighbourhood, and the crest of 
 Cecil. Chas. I. slept here Aug. 23, 
 1645, on his way from Newark to 
 Huntingdon. 
 
 The greater part of Stamford (the 
 name probably indicates an ancient 
 ford at this place, across the Wel- 
 land, which runs through the town) 
 lies in Lincolnshire, the river being 
 the boundary between that county 
 and Northamptonshire. The Lin- 
 colnshire “ burgh ” was a royal one. 
 The quarter lying in Northampton- 
 shire (St. Martin’s) belonged to the 
 Abbots of Peterborough, who held 
 it by baronial tenure, and it was 
 (and is) known as Stamford Baron. 
 Stamford occurs (as Stanford) in the 
 grant of Wulphere, in a.d. 657, to 
 Saxulf, 1st Abbot of Medeshamstede 
 
 (Peterborough). It became one of 
 the principal places in the Denalagh, 
 the part of England subdued and 
 settled by the Danes ; and is one of 
 the “ Five Burghs ” (the others were 
 Lincoln, Nottingham, Derby, and 
 Leicester) which, under Danish rule, 
 had not only special privileges of 
 their own, but a common organiza- 
 tion apparently of the nature of con- 
 federation. In 922, Stamford was 
 recovered from the Danes by Edward 
 the Elder, who “ fared with an army ” 
 to the place, and “ worked a burgh ” 
 on the south side of the river ; “ and 
 all the folk who belonged to the 
 northern burgh submitted to him, 
 and sought him for their lord.” This 
 was during the great struggle of 
 Edward and his sister Ethelflsed, 
 “Lady of the Mercians,” with the 
 Danes, when many other “ burghs ” 
 were built. See Towcester, Rte. 5 ; 
 and Bedford (Hdbk.for Beds , Bte. 1). 
 Whilst Edward “was sitting” at 
 Stamford his sister died at Tamworth. 
 (Sax. Chron. ad ann .) A double 
 “ burgh,” or stronghold, is also men- 
 tioned at Bedford, where the Ouse is 
 the dividing river. Notwithstanding 
 “ submission ” of the Danes, however, 
 Stamford was still in some way 
 under their control in 941 ; when 
 the English Chronicle, breaking into 
 verse, tells us of the delivery of the 
 five burghs, “held in heathen’s 
 bond, for a long space,” till the 
 warrior’s refuge, King Edmund, 
 “through his worthiness again re- 
 leased them.” In the Domesday 
 Survey, Stamford, like Lincoln, is 
 recorded as under the rule of 12 lage- 
 manni, or “ lawmen,” who may pos- 
 sibly represent the old Danish or- 
 ganization. It was in effect a 
 “burgh by prescription,” when its 
 first charter was granted by Hen. 
 HI. Lying as it does on what is 
 now the Great North Road, and con- 
 nected with the Ermyn Street (which 
 crossed the Welland somewhat to 
 the west) by a “way” which can 
 still be traced, Stamford was con- 
 
92 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Route 3. — Stamford : History . 
 
 stantly visited by English sovereigns, 
 although a distinction far beyond 
 any of these visits is conferred on 
 the place by J ustice Shallow’s brief 
 query, “ How a yoke of bullocks at 
 Stamford fair?” King John was 
 often here ; and in Easter week, 
 1215, the army of the Barons as- 
 sembled here before marching to 
 Bury St. Edmund’s, and so to Lon- 
 don. Edw. I. (frequently), Edw. II., 
 and Edw. III., visited Stamford. 
 The body of Queen Eleanor rested 
 here on its way (1290) from Harby 
 to Westminster; and a cross was 
 duly erected at Stamford, which was 
 entirely destroyed during the civil 
 war. Edw. IV. (March 13, 1470) 
 fought the battle afterwards known 
 as that of Losecoat field, against the 
 Lancastrians led by Sir Robert 
 Welles, a few miles N. of the town, 
 and was opportunely assisted by a 
 contingent of the townsfolk, who had 
 suffered terribly from Lancastrian 
 ravages in 1461 (see post). (See 
 Handbook for Lincolnshire.) Sir T. 
 Wells, Sir Thomas Dymoke, and Sir 
 Thomas de la Lande, were afterwards 
 beheaded in Stamford. Hen. VIII., 
 Elizabeth, Jas. I., and Chas. I., all 
 visited the town ; and Chas. I., after 
 his escape from Hampton Court, 
 arrived here (May 3, 1646) in the 
 disguise of a servant, and was re- 
 ceived in the house of Alderman 
 Wolph. On the 4th, at midnight, 
 he set out again, attended by Ash- 
 burnham. William III. was here, 
 Oct. 28, 1696 ; George IY., in 1816 ; 
 and Queen Victoria has twice visited 
 Stamford. These royal visits, many 
 of which, after the reign of Eliza- 
 beth, were as much connected with 
 Burghley as with Stamford, consti- 
 tute in fact the later history of the 
 town. 
 
 Another great distinction belongs 
 to Stamford. It narrowly missed be- 
 coming a serious rival of the Uni- 
 versities of Oxford and Cambridge. 
 The teaching in the religious houses 
 of the Carmelites and the Austin , 
 
 Friars here became celebrated about 
 the middle of the 13th cent. ; and in 
 1266, when the students, who had 
 settled at Northampton (see Rte. 1), 
 returned in a body to their old 
 quarters at Oxford, some few of them 
 preferred a withdrawal to Stamford. 
 In 1292 Robert Luttrell founded 
 Sempringham Hall at Stamford for 
 students of the Gilbertine order. 
 Other schools were established in 
 1309 by William Whetely (both 
 Luttrell and Whetely were Oxford 
 men) ; and in Nov. 1333 there was a 
 large secession (caused by the disputes 
 between northern and southern stu- 
 dents) to this place of masters and 
 scholars from Oxford, whose numbers 
 were augmented in the following 
 year. They set up halls at Stamford ; 
 but the old universities remonstrated, 
 and the king ordered the return of 
 the students, on pain of confiscation 
 of their goods by the sheriff of Lin- 
 coln. Notwithstanding this, a few 
 seem to have lingered on for a year 
 or two. Both universities defended 
 their privileges by statutes, which 
 provided that there should be no 
 “ inception ” in any faculty except 
 at Oxford and Cambridge. Students 
 of Cambridge, however, are said to 
 have migrated here for a short time 
 in 1463. It was asserted that a pro- 
 phecy of Merlin foretold the fame of 
 the “ stony ford ; ” an “ old sawe,” 
 which, in Spenser’s words, predicted 
 a time — 
 
 “Which shall see Stamford, though now 
 homely laid, 
 
 Then shine in learning more than ever did 
 
 Cambridge or Oxford, England’s goodly 
 beams.” 
 
 A touch of University reputation 
 thus rests on Stamford, and there are 
 a few remaining relics of these times, 
 although the stay of the students 
 was but brief. The wealth and 
 influence of ancient Stamford was 
 mainly due to its position and its 
 consequent commercial importance. 
 It was a merchant’s town in the 
 
Northants. 
 
 93 
 
 Boute 8 . — Stamford : Churches . 
 
 reign of John, when a particular sort 
 of cloth was manufactured here ; and 
 Lord Burghley induced many of the 
 Low Country exiles to remove from 
 London to Stamford, where they did 
 much for the weaving trade. Old 
 merchants , houses are frequent in the 
 town ; and four hospitals, locally 
 called “ Callis,’ , belonged probably 
 to woolstaplers of Calais, and were 
 named accordingly. 
 
 The older, or royal Stamford (the 
 walled town), on the N. bank of the 
 Welland, is a somewhat tangled col- 
 lection of streets and houses, with a 
 large open market square. St. Mar- 
 tin’s, or Stamford Baron, in North- 
 amptonshire, has one long broad 
 street leading up the hill toward the 
 entrance of Burghley. No town in 
 England has suffered more than 
 Stamford from the loss of those me- 
 diaeval buildings which gave it special 
 character. Almost all the churches 
 without the walls, and one or two of 
 those within, were, it is said, de- 
 stroyed in 1461 by the army of the 
 Lancastrians, under Andrew Trollop. 
 However this may be, it is certain 
 that 10 churches, besides 6 religious 
 houses, 2 hospitals, and 4 colle- 
 giate halls, have disappeared utterly. 
 Hardly a trace remains of the walls, 
 or of the two strongholds, one of which 
 probably did not survive the Con- 
 quest ; while the other, on the S. side 
 of the river, having been converted 
 into a Norman castle, was nearly de- 
 stroyed in the 12th centy. The ap- 
 pearance therefore of ancient Stam- 
 ford must have been very different, 
 and far more striking than that of 
 the existing town. Yet there still 
 remain on either side of the Welland 
 very fine and important churches , 
 which, as the chief objects of interest 
 here, may be first described. These 
 are —St. Mary’s (the principal church 
 of the town), All Saints’, St. George’s, 
 and St. J ohn’s, in Lincolnshire ; and 
 St. Martin’s, on the Northampton- 
 shire side. Three of these, St. 
 Mary’s, All Saints’, and St. George’s, 
 
 were originally E. E., belonging to 
 the first quarter of the 13th centy. 
 The other two are Perp. 
 
 St. Mary's , the E. E. tower (the 
 spire is Dec.) of which is conspicuous 
 as we cross the bridge over the Wel- 
 land, stands well on high ground. 
 The tower has many tiers of arcading, 
 some of the arches being trefoil- 
 headed ; and the dog-tooth occurs. 
 The whole surface is covered by 
 these arcades, of which there are 5 
 on the N. and S. sides, while on the 
 W. the place of the lower arcades is 
 occupied by the doorway and its 
 accessories. Over the door is a round 
 panel, filled with interlaced work, 
 which somewhat recals the sculp- 
 tured stones at Barnack (see ante). 
 The broach spire was added about 
 the year 1300, and is of great beauty. 
 It is banded at the angles, without 
 pinnacles, but enriched with canopies 
 and statues at the base, and the spire 
 lights are set in very bold projec- 
 tions. There is nothing in the body 
 of the church so good as the tower. 
 The nave is early Perp., with lofty 
 slender piers and arches, and a small 
 clerestory above. The E. E. tower 
 arch should be noticed. The chancel 
 arch is E. E. The E. window and 
 open roof are modern. St. Nicholas’s 
 chapel opens S. of the chancel by an 
 early Dec. arch. St. Mary’s chapel, 
 N., has a rich cradle roof of timber, 
 coloured, and powdered with stars, 
 given by Alderman Hickham in 1467. 
 In the N. wall are 2 recesses of Dec. 
 character. In one is placed a figure, 
 which seems to have been taken 
 from a niche (St. Mary?); in the 
 other is the effigy of a knight (with 
 shield of Browne), temp. Edw. III. 
 Above this tomb is an ogee arched 
 Dec. window, which is of the same 
 date. It is probable that the tomb 
 is that of the founder of the chapel. 
 The matrix of the brass of Aid. 
 Hickham remains here; and the 
 door which opens to the chapel from 
 the chancel must have been his in- 
 sertion. On the S. side, on a rich 
 
94 
 
 Route 3 . — Stamford : Churches . 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 altar-tomb, are the effigies of Sir 
 David Phillips, who was attached 
 to the household of Q. Margaret of 
 York, and his wife. Both wear 
 collars of SS. 
 
 All Saints ' (restored 1857) is in 
 some respects more interesting. It 
 stands well, in the centre of a rising 
 ground, surrounded by irregular and 
 picturesque houses. The lofty Perp. 
 tower with spire (152 ft.) is attached 
 to this end of the S. aisle. The 
 sides are panelled, and good as the 
 design is, it suffers in comparison 
 with the earlier work at St. Mary’s. 
 The spire is flanked by octagonal 
 turrets. The rest of the church is 
 mainly E. E., with insertions of 
 later date. The whole of the exte- 
 rior seems to have had a line of very 
 fine E. E. arcading below the win- 
 dows. This remains perfect on the 
 S. side, and is continued round the 
 E. end. (Some of the caps, are 
 leafed.) It may also be traced round 
 the W. front, under the great Perp. 
 window and the W. window of the 
 S. aisle ; but here the E. E. shafts 
 alone remain. The arches were 
 altered in Perp. times. The win- 
 dows of nave and chancel are Perp. 
 insertions. At the W. end of S. 
 aisle is a very beautiful recessed 
 porch, of early Perp. character. 
 The nave is E. E. ; the S. arcade 
 being richer than that N. The 
 caps, have fine foliage. There is a 
 clerestory of small windows, almost 
 continuous. The chancel is Perp., 
 with modern reredos and screen. 
 The chapel on the S. side has E. E. 
 portions. (The extreme irregularity 
 of ground -plan deserves notice. 
 There is throughout hardly a right 
 angle, or one line parallel with an- 
 other. Yet the main plan is entirely 
 of one date — E. E.) In the N. aisle 
 are the brasses of John Browne, 
 merchant of the staple of Calais, d. 
 1442, in sleeved gown, standing on 
 woolpacks ; of his wife Margaret, d. 
 1460 ; and John Browne, his son, d. 
 1475, and wife. He wears an alder- 
 
 man’s mantle. The S. chap'el has 
 the brass of another son, William 
 Browne, d. 1489, and wife. He is 
 the recorded builder of the tower 
 and spire; and the founder of the 
 hospital named after him (see post). 
 In the ch.-yd. is a very curious well , 
 with subterranean arches supporting 
 portions of the solid rock over it. 
 
 St. George's was originally E. E. ; 
 but was greatly injured (almost de- 
 stroyed) by fire in the 14th centy. 
 The E. E. piers of the nave were 
 circular ; but after the fire those 
 portions which remained were placed 
 between octagonal additions of Dec. 
 character, so as to give increased 
 height. There are other remarkable 
 adaptations, and the church was 
 again altered in the 15th centy. 
 (The chancel arch is of this date.) 
 The W. tower is E. E., with a Dec. 
 window inserted. On the N. side of 
 the chancel is the monument of Sir 
 Richard and Lady Gust, with statue 
 of Lady Oust, by Bacon, 1797. 
 There are figs, of St. Catherine and 
 St. Anne, in the E. window of the 
 chancel; a kneeling fig. on the S. 
 side ; and opposite, the arms of 
 William Burges, “ Garter King at 
 Arms,” and probably a native of 
 Stamford. To this Wiliam Burges 
 the restoration, and in part rebuild- 
 ing of the church during the Perp. 
 period, is entirely due ; the result 
 being that in spite of E. E. and Dec. 
 portions the general appearance is 
 Perp. His will, dated Feb. 26, 
 1449, orders that his body should 
 be buried “ in the middle of the 
 quere,” and provides for the “ com- 
 plishyng and ending ” of works 
 which were still in progress. The 
 chancel windows were filled by him 
 with glass, bearing the figures of 
 Edw. III., and the 25 first Knights 
 of the Garter. St. George was the 
 patron saint of the order. 
 
 St. John's is a small Perp. church, 
 of no very great interest. The tower 
 is at the W. end of the N. aisle. 
 There is a lofty nave arcade, with 
 
North ants. Boute 3. — Stamford: St. Martin's Church. 
 
 95 
 
 clerestory. The roof, which has 
 angel brackets, is coloured red and 
 black. In the upper lights of the 
 N. aisle are considerable remains of 
 very excellent stained glass. The 
 E. and W. windows are modern and 
 bad. The chancel retains some good 
 woodwork, and against the E. wall 
 of the S. aisle are brasses for Aider- 
 man Byldesdon and wife, d. 1489, 
 and Henry Sergeaunt, rector, d. 
 1497. 
 
 St. Martins Church , on the S. side 
 of the Welland, is entirely Perp., 
 and was built (on the site of an 
 earlier church, destroyed by the 
 Lancastrians in 1461) by John 
 "Russell, Bp. of Lincoln, circ. 1482. 
 The exterior in all parts which meet 
 the eye is rich, and the masonry 
 excellent, but the interior is far 
 better. “ The effect, when once the 
 porch is passed, is faultless ; and the 
 grandeur arising from its loftiness 
 and its uncrowded space reconciles 
 one to the loss of the picturesque- 
 ness of the earlier styles.” — G. A. 
 Poole. The tower is of 4 stages. 
 The piers of the nave are very lofty. 
 In the spandrels are angels bearing 
 shields, and the timber roof is carried 
 on moulded corbels. The chancel is 
 of 4 bays, with a Lady Chapel N . ; 
 and, beyond, the modern mortuary 
 chapel of the Cecils. There is much 
 stained glass, brought here during 
 the last century from the collegiate 
 church of Tattershall in Lincoln- 
 shire and elsewhere. It is good, 
 but loses, of course, much of its in- 
 terest from not having originally 
 belonged to this church. The Cecil 
 monuments are of great importance. 
 At the E. end of the N. chancel aisle 
 are the effigies, at a desk, of Richard 
 Cecil and his wife — father and 
 mother of the great Lord Burghley. 
 Richard Cecil died March 19, 1553, 
 and was buried at St. Margaret’s, 
 Westminster. Above the figures is 
 an inscription, “ In happy memory 
 of Richard Cecil, Esquire, and Jayne 
 his wife.” (She was daughter and 
 
 heiress of Wm. Heckington of Bourne, 
 in Lincolnshire, where the future 
 Lord Treasurer was born, Sept. 13, 
 1520.) Between aisle and chancel, 
 on a fine canopied tomb of alabaster 
 and marble, is the effigy of the 
 great Lord Treasurer Burghley, 
 who died in London, Aug. 4, 1598. 
 (There were 2 funerals, one at 
 Westminster, and one at Stamford, 
 both on Aug. 28. The body was 
 probably conveyed to Stamford, 
 where Burghley states in his will 
 that he had “already provided a 
 burial-place.”) He is in armour, 
 with the red robes of the Garter, of 
 which order he wears the star. In 
 his left hand is the Treasurer’s 
 wand. The whole is a very fine and 
 elaborate example of its period, and 
 resembles in some of its details the 
 work at Burghley House. (Com- 
 pare especially the ornaments on the 
 canopy with those on the staircase 
 at Burghley.) The new chapel was 
 added in 1864. It contains a monu- 
 ment for the 2nd Marquis of Exeter, 
 d. 1867, and some others. Against 
 the N. wall of this chapel is a vast 
 monument (formerly in the aisle), 
 towering to the roof, by Monnot , of 
 Rome. This is for John, Earl of 
 Exeter, who died 1706, and Anne, 
 his countess, whose elaborately re- 
 clining figures are attended by 
 Minerva and the “ goddess of arts 
 and sciences ” — whoever she may 
 be. This Earl, we are told, lived at 
 home “ eleganter, sumptuose, splen- 
 dide” 
 
 In this church was buried William 
 Wissing, a portrait painter of some 
 note, who died at Burghley, where 
 he had been employed, Sept. 10, 
 1687. 
 
 Other points of interest in Stam- 
 ford are the Hospitals, the Grammar 
 School, the remains of St. Leonard’s 
 Priory , and some other fragments, 
 domestic and ecclesiastical. Of the 
 hospitals, that called the Burghley 
 Bedehouse is on the Northampton- 
 shire side of the Welland, immedi- 
 
96 Route 3. — Stamford: Hospitals; School; Priory. Sect. I. 
 
 ately beyond the bridge. There 
 was at this place a hospital dedi- 
 cated to St. John the Baptist and 
 St. Thomas of Canterbury, “ for the 
 entertaining of travellers,” founded, 
 towards the end of Henry I I/s reign, 
 by a certain Brand, who became a 
 monk of Peterborough. This hos- 
 pital had a bridge chapel, of which 
 no part remains ; but a Norm, 
 capital, buttress, and water-arch are 
 worked into the Bedehouse, erected 
 on the site by Lord Burghley, in 
 1597. He endowed it with an an- 
 nual 100Z., for the maintenance of 
 12 poor men and a warden. The 
 river-front, with its tall chimneys 
 and gable, is picturesque. More an- 
 cient and more important is Browne's 
 Hospital, in Broad-street. This was 
 founded by William Browne, mer- 
 chant, temp. Ed. IV., as an alms- 
 house for poor of each sex and for 
 two chaplains. The endowment 
 was completed, and a charter ob- 
 tained from Henry VII. by Browne’s 
 brother-in-law and executor, Thomas 
 Stokke, Canon of York. This 
 venerable hospital has been re- 
 stored and enlarged. There is a 
 good entrance-porch, battlemented, 
 and flanked with canopied niches ; 
 and on the side of the street are 
 seen the transomed windows of the 
 audit-room and chapel, and a lower 
 range, lighting the dormitories. 
 The interior arrangement resembled 
 that of other and earlier hospitals 
 (the best example is that of St. 
 Mary’s Hospital at Chichester) in 
 having a long hall with a central 
 passage, from which the rooms of 
 the brethren opened on either side, 
 and a chapel at the end, divided 
 from the hall by a screen of carved 
 wood. The chapel here is of two 
 bays, with stalls and carved bench- 
 ends, and some very fine Perp. 
 stained glass in the S. window. At 
 the top are 4 whole-length male 
 figures ; at the bottom 4 half-length 
 female. The glass has been muti- 
 tilated and transposed ; but the 
 
 Holy Trinity, St. John the Baptist, 
 St. James, St. Catherine, the Blessed 
 Virgin, and St. Barbara, are to be 
 distinguished. The “marks” of 
 Browne also appear here: Sa. 3 
 hammers arg., a heart with a B, 
 and a Maltese cross. There is some 
 glass of similar character, and quite 
 as fine, in the audit-room in the 
 upper story, which deserves a visit. 
 The subjects here are David, Solo- 
 mon, and St. Paul. The revenue of 
 Browne’s Hospital is nearly 4000Z. 
 a year, and a portion of it, under a 
 modern scheme, is applied to the 
 “ educational purposes” of the town. 
 (It has been asserted that part of 
 Browne’s dwelling-house was adapted 
 for the hospital, but this was not so. 
 Remains of the founder’s house, 
 which must have been on a very 
 large scale and of a grand type, have 
 been found built into modern dwell- 
 ings in the street west of the hospital. 
 Among them was discovered the 
 entrance to the large wool-chamber 
 of the merchant). 
 
 The Grammar School , on the N. 
 side of St. Paul’s-street, was the S. 
 aisle of the church of St. Paul. The 
 string and corbel table of the ex- 
 terior, and the pointed arches within, 
 date from about 1150. The windows 
 are temp. Edw. III. The school 
 itself was founded by William Rad- 
 cliffe, thrice Mayor of Stamford, who 
 died about 1530. 
 
 St. Leonard's Priory , outside the 
 walls (but in Lincolnshire) was 
 founded, it is said, by Wilfrith, h> 
 ward the middle of the 7th century. 
 (Wilfrith, it may be remembered, 
 was the founder of another small 
 house at Oundle (see Rte. 2), where 
 he died.) It was restored (for Bene- 
 dictine monks) after the Conquest, 
 by William of St. Carilef, Bp. of 
 Durham, who began the rebuilding 
 of his own vast cathedral, and 
 who gave this priory to his Dur- 
 ham convent. What remains here is 
 partly of his date. The ruins con- 
 sist of the W. end of the nave of the 
 
Northants. Route 3. — Stamford: Walls , Castle > 
 
 97 
 
 chapel, 5 arches of the N. arcade, 
 and part of the clerestory above 
 them. Two or three of the eastern- 
 most bays may be Carilef’s work. 
 “The rest, without any change of 
 plan, receive gradually the details 
 of a later age, until, in the W. end, 
 some features of the next style are 
 almost anticipated.” — G. A. Poole. 
 The chapel was, therefore, some time 
 in building. The composition of the 
 W. end is much enriched, the chief 
 indications of advance in style being 
 the bandings of the shafts and the 
 foliage. 
 
 There are fragments, a few yards 
 N.B. of King’s Mill-lane, of Semp- 
 ringham Hall , the school of the Gil- 
 bertines, founded in the 12th cent, 
 (see ante). These consist of portions 
 of Perp. arches. In St. Paul -street 
 is the ivy -capped gateway of Brase- 
 nose College , destroyed by order of 
 the corporation in 1668. The gate- 
 way, which has been removed some 
 yards from its original position, is of 
 the time of Edw. I. (The connexion 
 between the name here and that of 
 the college at Oxford is not clear ; 
 at any rate, this was the earlier. In 
 both cases the name is probably a 
 corruption of u brasen-hus ” = brew 
 house.) It is asserted that Roger 
 Bacon, the Franciscan (d. 1292), 
 lived for some time in this college, 
 and that his famous brazen head 
 was the “knocker” on the portal. 
 Scattered through the town are some 
 few domestic remains worth notice. 
 In St. Mary-street, in a passage on 
 the N. side, are arches with short 
 shafts, once apparently belonging to 
 a cellarage ; and on St. Mary’s Hill, 
 nearly opposite the Town-hall, is a 
 cellarage of the 13th cent., under a 
 shop. At the entrance of St. Mary’s 
 passage is a good Norm, archway. 
 Stone houses of the 17th cent, 
 abound ; the best example is in 
 Broad-street. On Barn Hill is the 
 house of Wolph, the alderman, who 
 received Charles I. after his escape 
 from Hampton Court in 1646 (see 
 [ Northants , &c.~\ 
 
 ante). This house was bought by 
 Stukeley, the antiquary, vicar of 
 All Saints from 1729 to 1747, who 
 closed “ the great gate in the town 
 wall ” through which the king had 
 passed, u leaving only the door open- 
 ing to the fields.” There are many 
 inscriptions in different parts of the 
 building and gardens, placed there 
 by the learned doctor. Over the 
 entrance gateway is a record that he 
 erected it in 1737 — “Beatse Tran- 
 quillitati and in 1746 he added an 
 inscription in honour of the victory 
 of Culloden. A physician who cured 
 his gout is commemorated elsewhere. 
 Stukeley founded here a “ Brasenose 
 Society,” designed “ to inquire into 
 the history and antiquities of the 
 kingdom, make discoveries in na- 
 tural history, and improvements in 
 arts and sciences generally.” 
 
 Of the town walls the only frag- 
 ment is at the end of St. Peter’s- 
 street, a few yards N. of which is a 
 buttress tower of the time of Charles 
 I. The Norman Castle stood near 
 the S.W. corner of St. Peter’s-square, 
 where an ivied wall retains the jambs 
 of a doorway. Below, by the mill- 
 stream, an E. E. postern may be 
 seen; and beyond it, a portion of 
 the Norm, wall of the outer enclo- 
 sure. The mound of the Keep — no 
 doubt in existence when the Norm. 
 Castle was raised — is conspicuous. 
 In the S.E. corner of the enclosure 
 is some fine arcading of the 1 3th cent, 
 apparently a portion of a hall. The 
 Norm. Castle is due probably to 
 Richard de Humez, Sheriff of Rut- 
 land (1164-80). From 1206 to 1303 
 it was held by the Earls of Wnrrene. 
 
 The Town Hall , on St. Mary’s 
 Hill, built in 1777, contains the cor- 
 poration plate of the aldermen and 
 counsellors. (John, Earl of War- 
 rene, in 1257, granted leave to the 
 burgesses to choose an alderman, to 
 be sworn before the lord of the ma- 
 nor, or before the steward. Accord- 
 ingly, the chief magistrate bears the 
 name of alderman until 1663, when 
 
 F 
 
98 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Route 3 . — Peterborough to Stamford. 
 
 lie is first styled Mayor.) There 
 are 3 maces, one temp. Edward IY. ; 
 a second, dating from the Restora- 
 tion; and a third, the largest, of 
 silver gilt, was given in 1678 by 
 Charles Bertie, thenM.P. for the bo- 
 rough. A large silver punch-bowl, 
 holding 5 gallons, was also his gift. 
 
 The bridge , over which we have 
 passed more than once in our wander- 
 ings, was built in 1849. It took the 
 place of a stone bridge which was in 
 existence in .1149; but of which por- 
 tions had often been swept away 
 by floods, and renewed. This first 
 bridge was 150 ft. long, and of 3 
 arches. 
 
 Stamford boasts of having been 
 the birthplace of the earliest pro- 
 vincial paper set forth in England. 
 The ‘Stamford Mercury’ was, it is 
 said, established in 1695 — a result 
 of the freedom of the press granted 
 by William III. (There is a copy 
 for the year 1719 in the Leicester 
 Museum.) It at first consisted of 4 
 quarto pages, and resembled the old 
 news letters; has never ceased to 
 appear; and has now a very great 
 circulation throughout the Midland 
 counties. 
 
 Stamford was one of the first Eng- 
 lish boroughs which sent members to 
 Parliament. (It appears in that of 
 1295.) In 1869 it lost one of its 
 members, the population being under 
 10,000. In 1628 Henry Grey was 
 created Earl of Stamford . His de- 
 scendant became Earl of Warrington 
 in 1796, and the titles are now com- 
 bined. 
 
 Among distinguished persons be- 
 longing to Stamford must be reckon- 
 ed the two Jacksons — Cyril, the Dean 
 of Christchurch, bom here in 1742, 
 and his brother William, born 1750, 
 Bishop of Oxford, 1811-15. Robert 
 Johnson, Archdeacon of Leicester, 
 and founder of Oakham and Upping- 
 ham Grammar Schools, was born at 
 Stamford, for which place his father 
 had sat in parliament with David 1 
 Cceil, grandfather of Lord Burghley. 
 
 Francis Peck the antiquary was born 
 here in 1692. (There is a notice of 
 Burghley in his ‘ Desiderata Cu- 
 
 I riosa.’) The Rev. Thomas Seaton, 
 founder of the Seatonian prize at 
 Cambridge, was also a native. 
 General Sir Hudson Lowe, of St. 
 Helena reputation, was born here. 
 Robert Dale Owen served an ap- 
 prenticeship to a draper at Stam- 
 ford ; and Daniel Lambert, the 
 “ giant,” died here suddenly in 1809, 
 aged 40. “ He measured 9 ft. 4 in. 
 round the body, and weighed 52 st. 
 111b.” 
 
 Very near St. Martin’s Church, at 
 the head of the long street of St. 
 Martin’s or Stamford Baron, is an 
 entrance to the park of Burghley. 
 The house is distant from the en- 
 trance rather more than 1 m. Burgh- 
 ley, a house of great historical in- 
 terest, the architecture of which is 
 one of the best examples of the Eng- 
 lish renaissance, and which contains 
 a large and important collection of 
 pictures , is open to visitors daily , from 
 
 I I a. m. to 5 p.m. (Thursdays, and the 
 last fortnight in Lent are excepted.) 
 Attendants are entitled to not less than 
 Is. from each visitor. The lower 
 park is at all times open. The 
 middle and upper parks are closed to 
 the public. 
 
 Burghley, the “ ley,” or pasture of 
 the great monastic house of “ Burgh” 
 (Peterborough), was the property of 
 that Abbey at the time of the Con- 
 quest, but in the Domesday survey 
 it appears in the holding of GeofFry 
 of Winchester. But it soon returned 
 to its former owners, and the manor 
 was held under the Abbey by a fa- 
 mily which took its name from the 
 place, until the beginning of the 14th 
 cent. It then passed to other hold- 
 ers (still under the Abbey) until, 
 early in the 16th cent., it was bought 
 by Richard Cecil, father of the Lord 
 Treasurer. But there was also a 
 monastic cell here, attached to Peter- 
 borough, and standing on part of 
 
Northants. 
 
 Route 3 , — Burghley Park. 
 
 99 
 
 the ground occupied by the present 
 house. All rights of ownership came, 
 however, at last to Richard Cecil, 
 and to his son. The eldest son of 
 the Treasurer was created Earl of 
 Exeter in 1605. (Lord Burghley’s 
 2nd son was the 1st Earl of Salis- 
 bury.) The marquisate dates from 
 1801. The present (1877) is the 
 3rd Marquis, and is in direct descent 
 from the great Treasurer. 
 
 The park, which we enter either 
 by a side gate above St. Martin's 
 Church, or by the principal approach 
 a little beyond it, is 7 m. ■ in cir- 
 cumference, 2J m. long, and about 
 1J m. broad. It is grandly wooded, 
 and there is a large sheet of water ; 
 yet on the whole it wants the half- 
 wildness and the antique forest 
 character which delight us so greatly 
 in the park of the other great Cecil- 
 house at Hatfield. The avenues here 
 are very fine and extensive, with 
 much elm, lime, oak, and Spanish 
 chestnut : but Burghley (owing to a 
 difference of soil) displays no such 
 venerable oaks as those of Hatfield. 
 An elm avenue (the first entered from 
 Stamford) has the trunks of its trees 
 knotted and contorted in very sin- 
 gular fashion. The park-ground is 
 varied with hollow and upland, but 
 there is little distant view even from 
 the house, which at last shows itself 
 among the trees on the rt. As it is 
 approached, a very fine view is ob- 
 tained of the general mass, 2 fronts 
 of which are in sight, and which, 
 with its cupolas and tall chimneys, 
 the spire which marks the chapel, 
 the balustrades, and oriels glittering 
 in the sun, is very striking and pic- 
 turesque. 
 
 Lord Burghley did not begin to 
 build here until about 1575, and the 
 earliest date discoverable on any 
 part of the building is 1577 (on the 
 arched ceiling at the W. entrance). 
 The architect was no doubt John 
 Thorpe, whose folio volume, now 
 in the Soanean museum, contains, 
 
 among other plans and erections 
 those (the plans only) for Burgldey. 
 Thorpe was one of the chief archi- 
 tects of his day; and he was the 
 builder, for another Cecil (Sir 
 Thomas) of the house at Wimble- 
 don, which has entirely disappeared. 
 Fergusson (‘Hist, of Arch it.’) insists 
 that Hatfield and Burghley belong 
 to a group of buildings which time 
 has sanctified and sanctioned, though 
 they certainly are not beautiful, 
 either from the details or from any 
 grouping of the parts. This is s^t 
 least doubtful ; and there are por- 
 tions of Burghley, which, if fairly 
 seen and considered, must go far to 
 modify so sweeping a statement. 
 Some changes have been made since 
 the first completion of the house. 
 But its appearance has not been al- 
 tered in any important respect ; and 
 the many “imbowed windows,” on 
 which Bacon dilates in his es^ay ‘ on 
 Building/ give at once that essenti- 
 ally English feeling of safety and 
 confidence which is wanting in the 
 great Continental houses built about 
 the same time. The principal rooms 
 in Italian or French houses look to- 
 ward the court; in England, as at 
 Burghley and Hatfield, they open 
 outwards. The Tuscan open-work 
 of the parapets, and the lofty Tuscan 
 columns, coupled by cornices and 
 heavy architraves, which form the 
 chimneys, indicate the extent to 
 which a elassieal influence had af- 
 fected the earlier Tudor work. 
 
 The house is in the form of a 
 parallelogram, and is built round a 
 central court. “The inside court,” 
 says Walpole, “ struck me with admi- 
 ration and reverence.” The whole 
 is of Barnack stone. The W. front, 
 with its lofty square tower, project- 
 ing from the line, and having its 
 angles surmounted by octangular 
 turrets, capped with cupolas, was 
 the part first finished. Massive iron 
 gates, richly gilt, guard the ap- 
 proaches to this and the N. or prin- 
 cipal front, which is divided into 3 
 f 2 
 
100 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Route 3 . — Burgliley House : Pictures. 
 
 compartments, and is unquestionably 
 fine. On the central panel of the 
 parapet is the date 1587. Beyond 
 the W. front is the Porter's Lodge 
 (at which the visitor must apply for 
 admission \ opening to a quadrangle, 
 round which are ranged various do- 
 mestic offices, and in the centre of 
 which is a venerable horse-chestnut 
 tree. 
 
 The interior of the house is here 
 described in the order in which it 
 is generally shown. The vast as- 
 semblage of pictures consists chiefly 
 of examples of the later Italian 
 school which are not of the highest 
 interest, although they give, on a 
 grand scale, “a view of the taste 
 in the arts which prevailed among 
 the English nobility from the middle 
 of the 17th cent, till about the 
 end of the 18th cent/’ — Waagen. 
 Horace Walpole writes of “that ve- 
 nerable palace .... ornamented with 
 a profusion of Carlo Maratti’s and 
 Luca Giordano’s works.” These 
 abound; but there are also many 
 pictures of great beauty and import- 
 ance, the principal of which are here 
 noticed. The best portraits (and 
 these are of the greatest value) are 
 placed in what is called the “ Pagoda 
 room.” These are fully described. 
 It may be added that among later 
 English works, the house contains no 
 less than 15 by the ingenious Ange- 
 lica Kauffman. 
 
 Passing through a long corridor 
 (where a view is obtained of the 
 inner court), a stone staircase is 
 reached, communicating with the 
 apartments on the first-floor, and 
 rising to the top of the house. The 
 peculiar ornaments of the roof, the 
 groinings above the landing-places, 
 with their stone pendants, and the 
 radiating arch over the shorter 
 flights, should all be noticed. (Some 
 of the ornaments resemble those on 
 the canopy of the Treasurer’s monu- 
 ment in St. Martin’s Ch., see ante). 
 The first room entered is known as 
 the Chapel Boom. Here are many 
 
 pictures of interest, but none calling 
 for special notice. So with those 
 in the Antechapel beyond. In the 
 Chapel , as an altarpiece, is placed 
 a picture by Paul Veronese (but not 
 one of his best works), of which the 
 subject is Zebedee’s wife petitioning 
 our Lord on behalf of her sons. Re- 
 mark also a i Passage of the Israelites 
 through the Red Sea,’ by Benedetto 
 Castiglione , “ A capital picture of the 
 Master.” — Waagen. On the walls are 
 some very fine specimens of the wood- 
 carving of Grinling Gibbons, who 
 was much employed here. The 
 chimney-piece, of various marbles, 
 was brought from a convent near 
 Lisbon. A seat here is called Queen 
 Elizabeth’s, and, it is said, was oc- 
 cupied by her on her visit to Burgh- 
 ley. It was also the seat of Queen 
 Victoria when she visited Burghley 
 in 1844. (It may here be noted that 
 this chapel, the great hall, and the 
 kitchen, were, it is asserted, portions 
 of the cell, or, as it must have be- 
 come at a later period, of the manor- 
 house attached to Peterborough 
 Abbey. It is true that Lord Burgh- 
 ley, in a letter dated 1585, writes of 
 having “set his walls on the old 
 foundation,” and of having “made 
 the rough stone walls to be square 
 but the building itself affords no 
 evidence of anything earlier than 
 the general design of John Thorpe). 
 
 The Billiard-room contains some 
 family portraits of interest. There 
 are 7 by Kneller ; John, 5th Earl, 
 and his wife; Elizabeth Brownlow, 
 wife of the 6th Earl ; Edward Cecil, 
 4th son of the 5th Earl; William 
 Cecil, brother of the 6th Earl ; the 
 7th Earl when a boy ; and the painter 
 himself (interesting). Here are also 
 the 8th Earl, by Richardson; two 
 Lelys , Elizabeth, daughter of Sir Wm. 
 Drury, 2nd wife of the 2nd Earl; 
 and Annabella Bennet, wife of the 
 6th Earl ; besides a replica by him 
 of Charles II. ’s Duchess of Cleveland ; 
 2 Dobsons, the 1st Duke and Duchess 
 of Devonshire ; Thomas Hobbes, the 
 
Northants. Route 3. — Rurghley House: Pictures. 
 
 101 
 
 “ philosopher,” d. 1679 (unknown ) ; 
 Sir Isaac Newton, by Lewis Crosse 
 (a bust, holding an open book rest- 
 ing on a globe) ; and (especially in- 
 teresting) Verrio , the painter, by 
 himself. He was employed here for 
 12 years in painting ceilings, &o. ; 
 and bis gods “sprawl” in company 
 with those of Laguerre on the walls 
 and ceilings of many of the chief 
 apartments, covering, in Walpole’s 
 words, “those public surfaces on 
 which the eye never rests long enough 
 to criticise, and where one should be 
 sorry to place the works of a better 
 master.” Over the chimney-piece is 
 Sir Thomas Lawrence’s picture of 
 Henry Cecil, 10th Earl and 1st Mar- 
 quis, his wife and daughter. He is 
 full-length, standing near a pillar; 
 his wife is seated beside him, and 
 holding her child. This is the 
 Countess (she was the Earl’s 2nd 
 wife, and died in 1797. The Mar- 
 quisate dates from 1801, and her 
 husband died in 1801, aged 50) who 
 is the subject of Tennyson’s poem. 
 Her husband (then only his uncle’s 
 heir), after the loss of his first wife, 
 lived for some time in a remote part 
 of Shropshire, calling himself Mr. 
 Jones. He lodged for some time in 
 the house of a farmer named Hoggins, 
 whose young daughter he married, 
 with her parents’ consent ; and after 
 the death of his uncle, and his con- 
 sequent accession to the Earldom, he 
 brought her to Burghley, but with- 
 out disclosing his rank. 
 
 “ And they speak in gentle murmur, 
 
 When they answer to his call, 
 
 While he treads with footsteps firmer, 
 Leading her from hall to hall. 
 
 And while now she wonders blindly, 
 
 Nor the meaning can divine ; 
 
 Proudly turns he round and kindly, 
 
 ‘ All of this is mine and thine.’ ” 
 
 The Countess died young; but it 
 does not appear that “ the burden of 
 an honour unto which she was not 
 born” weighed too heavily on her; 
 and the poet’s conclusion is at least 
 uncertain. 
 
 The Old Ball-room , or second Bil- 
 liard-room, has the walls and ceiling 
 painted by Laguerre, d. 1721. The 
 effect is gloomy, with hardly the 
 richness of tapestry. The subjects 
 on the walls are Scipio, Cannse, An- 
 thony and Cleopatra at a banquet, 
 and their deaths. The ceiling “ pur- 
 ports to be a representation of the 
 planetary system.” In the Brown 
 Drawing-room observe the carving 
 by Gibbons over the chimney-piece ; 
 birds, fruit, and flowers. Among 
 the pictures here, the most important 
 are — a curious £ Life of St. Augustin,’ 
 ascribed to Hugo Van der Goes (circ. 
 1480). Various events are repre- 
 sented : that in the centre being the 
 installation by St. Ambrose, of Au- 
 gustin, as Abp. of Africa; a man’s 
 head by Rembrandt ; and a landscape 
 by Ruysdael. Here are also a Virgin 
 and Child, ascribed to Albert Durer , 
 and a Venus and Cupid given to 
 Michael Angelo. Among various or- 
 naments in this room is a china dish, 
 with a view of Burghley upon it, 
 dated 1745. The Black and Yellow 
 bed-chamber contains an ancient 
 state-bed, and is hung with tapestry. 
 Here is more of Gibbons’ carving ; and 
 in this, and the adjoining dressing- 
 room are pictures , including 2 Guer- 
 cinos (Virgin and Child, and a 
 Venus and Cupid within a garland 
 of flowers — the flowers by Maria da 
 Fiori), worth notice. Queen Eliza- 
 beth’s bedroom (19 ft. by 18 ft.), re- 
 tains, it is said, the furniture and 
 hangings with which it was fitted on 
 the occasion of the queen s visit (but 
 see post. It is almost certain that 
 Elizabeth was never at Burghley. 
 The furniture may have been that 
 arranged for her in Lord Burghley’s 
 house at Stamford). The hangings 
 of the bed and the chair coverings are 
 of dark-green velvet and gold. The 
 tapestry was certainly never seen by 
 Elizabeth, since it was made for the 
 5th Earl, probably at Mortlake. The 
 subjects are — the ‘ Story of Actseon,’ 
 * Bacchus and Ariadne,’ and ‘Acis 
 
102 
 
 Route 3 . — Burghley House: Pictures . 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 and Galatea.’ The best 'picture is 
 the ‘ Agony in the Garden/ by Bas - 
 sano. 
 
 The next, or Pagoda-room (so 
 called from a model which is placed 
 in it), is one of the most interesting in 
 the house , from the series of portraits 
 which it contains. They may be 
 taken as they are numbered, though 
 this of course is not in historical suc- 
 cession David Garrick, Dance (half 
 length, seated ; hand resting on back 
 of chair). Rachel, Lady Russell, 
 Vandyck ; seated, blue dress with 
 roses in her lap. (The same treat- 
 ment is seen in Vandyck’s ‘Lady 
 Northumberland ’ at Hatfield.) This 
 is the well-known wife of Wm. Lord 
 Russell. She was daughter of Thos. 
 Wriothesley, 4th E. of Southampton. 
 Brownlow, 2nd Marquis of Exeter, 
 Sir M. A. Shee. Ferdinand, Duke 
 of Alva, ascribed to P. Veronese. 
 In armour, black-and-gold, and black- 
 and-gold surcoat; hat with feather. 
 The expression is rather sad than 
 fierce. Angelica Kauffman, Sir N . 
 Dance. Q. Henrietta Maria (half- 
 length), Vandyck. Charles I. (half- 
 length), Stone. Cromwell, E. of 
 Essex (assigned to Holbein). Head 
 of a lady, ascribed to Titian. Mrs. 
 Pelham, Romney. Annibale Caracci, 
 by himself. Charles II., his brother 
 and sisters, when children, Stone (a 
 copy from the Vandyck at Windsor). 
 Jan Van Eyck (?) by himself. Lady 
 Pembroke (daughter of George Vil- 
 liers, first D. of Buckingham), Ash- 
 field. Martin Luther; head with 
 monogram and date; on panel, 20 
 in. by 15 ; Lucas Cranach. Eliz. 
 Countess of Exeter, Dobson. O. 
 Cromwell, Walker. Hen. VIII., Hol- 
 bein. In the king’s hand is a scroll 
 with the words “Marc. 16. Ite in 
 mudum uni vers u et predicate evan- 
 gelium omni creaturse.” Lady War- 
 wick, Aslifield. The Lord Treasurer 
 Burghley, Mark Garrard , § size, 
 white beard, black cap, high ruff, 
 crimson dress, mantle, and collar 
 K.G., Treasurers staff. This picture 
 
 probably afforded the details for the 
 effigy on the tomb in St. Martin’s 
 Church. Q. Elizabeth, Mark Gar- 
 rard , age about 65 ; yellow wig ; high 
 jewelled headdress; wide, starched 
 and wired ruff, at the side of which 
 2 small pink roses are set. Princess 
 Mary Tudor, afterwards Queen, Hol- 
 bein , f miniature; dated at back, 
 1544. In her hands she holds a heart- 
 shaped locket. Edw. VI., Holbein , 
 at age of 7 or 8 (very striking). 
 Lady Anne Cecil, Vandyck (daughter 
 of 2nd E. of Salisbury). Thomas, 
 1st of Exeter, Cornelius Janssen; 
 half-length, high black hat and 
 black dress, ribbon and badge K.G. 
 (panel). This was the eldest son of 
 the great Lord Burghley by his first 
 wife, daughter of Sir John Cheke ; 
 born 1542, d. Feb. 7, 1621-22. He 
 was created E. of Exeter by Jas. I., 
 May 4, 1605; his younger half- 
 brother having been created E. of 
 Salisbury on the morning of the 
 same day. Isabella, daughter of 
 Philip II. of Spain, Chr. Massini. 
 Robert Devereux, E. of Essex, Eliza- 
 beth’s well-known favourite, Zuc- 
 caro (hair black, beard brown; he 
 wears a ruff over a turned-down 
 collar). Wm. Cavendish, D. of New- 
 castle, the great Royalist, Vandyck 
 (very fine). Lady Georgiana Cecil, 
 daughter of first E. of Exeter, C. 
 Janssen. Princess (afterwards Q.) 
 Eliz., j^olbein. Charles IX. of 
 France, unknown. Jane Cecil, 
 daughter and heiress of Wm. Heck- 
 ington of Bourn, and mother of the 
 Lord Treasurer, unknown. Laun- 
 celot Brown, Dance (“Capability” 
 Brown, the well-known landscape 
 gardener, b. 1715, d. 1773. He made 
 alterations in the park and grounds 
 here). E. of Southampton, Wm. 
 Wissing (this earl was the father 
 of Rachel, Lady Russell). A Span- 
 ish priest, assigned to Velasquez. 
 Countess of Desmond (so called — it 
 is probably Rembrandt’s mother)^ 
 Rembrandt. Portrait of a boy, Ve- 
 lasquez : Lady Dorothy Nevill, 
 
103 
 
 Nokthants. Route 3. — Burghley House : Pictures. 
 
 Janssen (she was 1st wife of the 
 1st Earl). 
 
 In the Purple-satin bedroom , the 
 tapestry hangings were made for 
 the 5th E. of Exeter. A picture of 
 ‘Susanna and the Eiders’ by Cara- 
 vaggio, “displays all his peculiar 
 energy.” — Waagen. In the dressing- 
 room are many pictures ; of which a 
 Virgin and Child on copper, by G. B. 
 Castiglione (given by Pope Clement 
 XVI. to the 9th Earl), is “ far more 
 noble and tender than most of the 
 pictures by this master.” — Waagen. 
 A Holy Family, by Passer i ; a St. 
 Hubert, given to Albert Barer ; a 
 small half-length called ‘William 
 Tell/ by Rembrandt ; and a “ Su- 
 sanna,” by Sir Peter Lely (“ the best 
 of his historical pictures I have 
 seen,” says Waagen), should be 
 noticed. 
 
 We pass to the S. side of the house, 
 and into the so-called “George 
 Rooms”— prepared for George IV., 
 but not occupied by him. They 
 were used by the Queen and Prince 
 Albert in 1844. The State bedroom 
 has fine carvings by Gibbons over 
 the doors ; and the ceiling, painted 
 by Verrio, displays ‘ Morning Chas- 
 ing away Night/ and sundry other 
 mythological representations which 
 the visitor will hardly care to make 
 out. Among the pictures remark: 
 Angels appearing to the infant Christ 
 with emblems of the Passion, N. 
 Poussin , careful and fine ; a boy with 
 a pigeon, Guido; Galatea, Albano, 
 “ very graceful, and of warm, clear 
 colouring.” — Waagen. A ‘Finding 
 of Moses/ here ascribed to Titian, 
 but probably by Pordenone, “rich 
 and admirable.” The Salutation, 
 signed Denis Calvart. A panel of 
 Christ in the Temple with the 
 Doctors, by L. Vanuden . A small 
 closet opening from this room, called 
 the Jewel Closet , contains the famous 
 Carlo Dolce (b. 1616, d. 1686) of 
 ‘ Our Lord blessing the bread and the 
 cup/ The composition is well known. 
 There is a replica in the Museum at 
 
 Dresden and another at Cor sham. 
 Those who care for the works of 
 Carlo Dolce will no doubt admire 
 this picture, which is his masterpiece. 
 It was brought from Italy by the 5th 
 Earl. (Waagen prefers the Dresden 
 example.) Here are also a ‘ Head 
 of the Baptist/ and ‘ The Child 
 Jesus with flowers’ (good), also by C. 
 Dolce. In a glass case are sundry 
 curiosities — a triaugular crystal set 
 with garnets, called Q. Elizabeth’s 
 salt-cellar ; a gold spoon for the oil 
 used at her coronation; her watch 
 and tablet ; the pocket-handkerchief 
 of William III. ; a small head of the 
 Lord Treasurer, fixed to the back of 
 an antique intaglio of Caracalla ; and 
 a head of Eliz. appendant. These 
 are cut in onyx by Valerio Belli ; the 
 rosary of Q. Mary of Scotland ; a ring 
 with some of Hen. VIII.’s hair ; and 
 a variety of trinkets of much value. 
 The 2nd State bedroom contains a 
 very magnificent bed, placed here 
 before Q. Victoria’s visit. The walls 
 are hung with tapestry made for the 
 5th Earl, with views of Burg] i ley 
 and Wothorpe in the borderings. 
 The ceiling is by Verrio , and has a 
 great display of his usual gods and 
 goddesses. The dressing-room at- 
 tached has another Verrio ceiling, 
 with the ‘Marriage of Cupid and 
 Psyche.’ Among the pictures an 
 Adoration of the Shepherds, by Floris, 
 and 2 flower-pieces by Riccio, deserve 
 notice. The Great Drawing-room 
 has on the ceiling, by Verrio , the 
 Marriage of Jupiter and Juno. Here 
 are two Claudes (of his middle 
 period) ; two Guidos ; a Holy Family, 
 by Andrea del Sarto ; a Holy Family 
 ascribed to Palma Vecchio ; a “ noble 
 Venetian,” by Sofonisba Anguisciola , 
 the lady so highly praised by Vasari 
 (see Althorp, Rte. 7, where is the 
 best picture of hers in England); 
 two Guercinos ; our Lord giving the 
 keys to St. Peter, G. Bellini (‘ a 
 finished work of his later period ” — 
 Waagen); and a curious picture, 
 given to Cimabue , and representing 
 
104 
 
 Route 3 . — Burghley House : Great Hall. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 the Countess Matilda, the great sup- 
 porter of Gregory VII. She is in a 
 long red robe, with a white rose in 
 one hand. The picture is inscribed 
 ‘ La gran Contessa Matilda.’ Ob- 
 serve, also, 2 pictures by Giacomo 
 Bassano, ‘ Gathering Manna,’ and 
 the ‘Prodigal’s Return,’ both very 
 good. In this room are 2 very fine 
 vases of old Delft. The next, or 
 Breakfast-room , has its ceiling and 
 walls covered with Verrio’s mytholo- 
 gies — and a figure on the E. side, 
 in the group of Vulcan and the 
 Cyclops, is said to represent the 
 painter. The room contains a large 
 collection of china , of various places 
 and periods. A cabinet of ebony 
 and t< rtoise-shell has the front and 
 interior painted by Rubens and his 
 pupils. 
 
 The Great Staircase , which is 
 now reached, has on the ceiling 
 Verrio's most important work here, 
 —a representation of the infernal 
 regions. The Burghley tradition 
 runs that Verrio was very particular 
 about his dinner; and that the cook 
 was not always sufficiently careful. 
 On one occasion he was so enraged 
 by the cook’s neglect that he placed 
 the portrait of the offender among 
 the sufferers in his Inferno — where 
 it still remains. There were pre- 
 cedents for such a proceeding; wit- 
 ness the story of a Venetian artist, 
 who complained to the Pope that he 
 had been treated by one of his 
 brethren in a similar fashion. The 
 Pope observed that if it had been 
 only Purgatory, something might 
 perhaps have been done; but that 
 he had no control beyond that region. 
 This ceiling was retouched by a 
 far greater artist than Verrio — Sto- 
 tliard — who painted the walls of the 
 staircase in the course of 3 summers, 
 beginning in 1799. The subjects 
 are War, Intemperance (Cleopatra 
 is dissolving the pearl), and the de- 
 scent of Orpheus to the Infernal 
 Regions. The paintings are on a 
 very large scale, with figures 8 ft. 
 
 high, and display great power and 
 brilliancy of colour. But important 
 as they are, Stothard is not here at 
 his best, and the delicacy and refine- 
 ment of his later work are hardly 
 indicated. On the landing is a 
 ‘Boy and Dolphin,’ by Nollekens, 
 copied from an antique formerly in 
 the Barbarini Palace at Rome. 
 
 The Great Hall is 68 ft. by 30, 
 and 66 ft. in height. The open roof 
 is its best feature. At the daised 
 end is a lofty oriel window with the 
 arms of Cecil and various quarter- 
 ings. On the chimney-piece are the 
 arms as borne by Lord Burghley. 
 There is a music gallery at the N. 
 end. The best pictures here are : 
 Sir Anthony Brown, 1st Lord 
 Montague, and his second wife ; full- 
 lengths, by (or after) Lucas de Heere ; 
 the great and eccentric E. of Peter- 
 borough, J. B. Vanloo; George I., 
 George II., Q. Caroline, Michael 
 Dahl ; and the late Prince Consort, 
 a copy from Winterhalter. There are 
 pictures in the apartments not shown 
 to visitors ; among which is an early 
 Titian of great beauty. The sub- 
 ject is the Virgin, with the Infant 
 Christ at full length in her lap. 
 There is a landscape background. 
 (See Crowe and Caval ., ‘Life of 
 Titian,’ i. p. 111.) 
 
 Burghley has of course had its 
 due allowance of royal visitors, and 
 its full historical distinction. In 
 spite of the general tradition, how- 
 ever, it is tolerably certain that 
 Elizabeth was never in the present 
 house. According to Lord Burgh- 
 ley’s diary, the queen was “ at my 
 house at Stamford,” Aug. 5, 1566; 
 but this was a house in the town, as 
 we are expressly told ; and a fever 
 in the house (then the old house) at 
 Burghley prevented Eliz. from going 
 there. There is no other record of a 
 visit to this place or neighbourhood. 
 It was after a stay at Theobalds that 
 the Queen made her well-known 
 speech to her old minister, saying 
 that “ his head and her purse could 
 
Northants. 
 
 Route 4 .— Northampton to Rugby. 
 
 105 
 
 do anything ;” and it was at Theo- 
 balds that the great “ entertain- 
 ments ” of Elizabeth by Burghley 
 took place, which “ cost him 2000L 
 or 3000Z. each time.” James I. was 
 received at Burghley with great 
 magnificence, April 23, 1603, on his 
 way from Scotland to London, “ the 
 house seeming so rich as if it had 
 been furnished at the charge of an 
 emperor.” Bp. Chaderton of Lincoln 
 preached on the 24th (Easter day) ; 
 and then ‘‘all the offices of the house 
 were set open, that every man might 
 have free access to buttery, pantries, 
 kitchen, to eat and drink in at their 
 pleasure.” It does not appear that 
 Charles I. visited Burghley, although 
 he more than once passed through, 
 and slept in, Stamford. Cromwell, 
 in 1643, marched to Stamford from 
 Peterborough, and took possession of 
 the town; “whereupon,” says Car- 
 lyle, “ the Cavaliers from Newark 
 and Bel voir Castle came hovering 
 about him ; he drove them into 
 Burghley House, and laid siege to 
 the same; at three in the morning 
 lie battered it with all his shot, and 
 stormed it at last.” Much harm, 
 however, was not done ; and the 
 Burghley tradition bears that the 
 portrait of Cromwell by Walker 
 now in the house was afterwards 
 sent by the Protector as a present to 
 Lady Exeter. William III., who 
 in 1695 (when he visited Althorp, 
 see Kte. 7) “lodged in Dr. Colby’s 
 house at Stamford,” twice visited 
 Burghley, and, it is asserted, re- 
 marked that “the house was too 
 large for a subject.” Matthew Prior 
 was at this time under the patronage 
 of the E. of Exeter, and was much 
 at Burghley ; to which place, writes 
 Walpole, “he has added celebrity 
 by his pleasing verses.” These will 
 be found in his 4 Works/ There 
 are lines 44 On the Countess of 
 Exeter playing on a lute and on 
 “ Jordain’s picture of Seneca dying 
 in a bath.” This “Giordano” is 
 not now at Burghley. 
 
 Burghley is wonderfully rich in 
 massive silver plate, including enor 
 mous wine-coolers, and some large 
 silver-gilt dishes received by the 
 earls and marquises as Hereditary 
 Grand Almoners at the Coronation 
 of the British Sovereign. 
 
 The gardens are at some distance 
 from the house, and although ex- 
 cellent, contain nothing which calls 
 for especial notice. 44 Capability 
 Brown” was employed here about 
 1775, and made much alteration in 
 the grounds. The lake on the S. 
 side of the house, covering about 32 
 acres, was formed by him. A stone 
 bridge across it leads to the middle 
 and upper parks, which are not open 
 to the public. 
 
 At Wothorpe , 1 m. S.W. of Stam- 
 ford, and commanding a good view 
 of the town, are the ivy-covered ruins 
 of a house built about 1600 by 
 Thomas Cecil, afterwards 1st E. of 
 Exeter, as he said, 44 to retire out of 
 the dust while his great house at 
 Burghley was a-sweeping.” Charles 
 Villiers, 2nd Duke of Buckingham, 
 lived in it for a short time. It was 
 entirely dismantled in 1759. 
 
 ROUTE 
 
 NORTHAMPTON TO RUGBY. 
 
 London and North-Western Railway . 
 
 From Northampton to Blisworth, 
 this rte. is described in Rte. L 
 There are many trains daily from 
 Bridge-street Stat., Northampton, to 
 Blisworth. 
 
 f 3 
 
106 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Route 4 . — Northampton to Rugby. 
 
 From Blisworth this rte. follows 
 the main N orth- W estern line between 
 London and Birmingham. (The 
 portion from London to Blisworth 
 is described in Hdbk. for Herts , Rte. 
 1, and in the present Hdbk., Rte. 1.) 
 The smaller stations on this line 
 beyond Blisworth are (1876) incon- 
 venient and comfortless. 
 
 There is little which calls for no- 
 tice between Blisworth and the first 
 stat., Weedon. On the 1., 1J m. 
 from Blisworth stat., is the village 
 and church of Gaytan. The Ch . 
 deserves attention. It is E. Eng. 
 and Dec., with some interesting 
 monuments. It has been restored, 
 and there is much modern stained 
 glass. The font is late Norm, with 
 interlaced arches and a cable 
 moulding. Under a Dec. canopy, on 
 the N. side of the chancel, is the 
 effigy (in oak) of (possibly) Sir 
 Philip de Gayton, died 1316. The 
 effigy is cross-legged ; and Sir Philip 
 may have accompanied Edward I. 
 on his Crusade. His son, Sir Theo- 
 bald, survived him but a few days, 
 and was the last of this family. 
 Opposite this monument is a plain 
 altar-tomb of Purbeck, which cannot 
 be appropriated. In the north chapel 
 is the tomb, with effigy, of Scho- 
 lastica, daughter of Sir Philip de 
 Gayton (she became coheiress with 
 her sister Juliana, burnt for murder 
 of her husband), and wife of Godfrey 
 de Meaux. She died in 1354. The 
 dress is a good example, and the 
 figure resembles those of Queen 
 Eleanor on the Northampton Cross, 
 although it must be considerably 
 later. On a bracket above is a 
 small figure found in the north wall, 
 which is no doubt that of Mabel, 
 daughter of Thomas de Gayton. 
 Opposite is the altar-tomb, with 
 effigies, of Francis Tanfield (d. 
 1558), and Bridget, his wife (d. 
 1583). He is bare-headed, and in 
 armour. The Tanfields were lords 
 of the manor from the latter part of 
 the 15th centy. to 1607. There is 
 
 also in the ch. a monument for the 
 Lockwoods, one of whom was sherifi 
 of Northamptonshire in 1745. The 
 village stands on high ground, com- 
 manding wide views. Besides the 
 ch. there is nothing to be noticed 
 but a portion of the manor-house, at 
 the north entrance of the village. 
 This may be Elizabethan. The 
 manner in which the projection 
 which carries the windows, itself 
 gabled, is placed within the main 
 gables of the house, is picturesque 
 and unusual. 
 
 The Ch. of Bucjbrooke , seen rt 
 from the rly., was at first E. Eng. 
 (piers and arches of nave), but re- 
 ceived much alteration (aisle win- 
 dows, tower, and spire) in the Dec. 
 period. Clerestory and E. window 
 are Perp., and a rich Perp. rood- 
 screen remains. The rectory was 
 given by William Earl of Mortain, 
 temp. Hen. I., to the Norman Abbey 
 of Grestein. The rly. soon reaches 
 
 Weedon Stat. (Here a large new 
 hotel is (1876) in course of building, 
 The Globe, in the village, rt. of the 
 rly., is tolerably comfortable.) The 
 barracks are on the S. of the stat. 
 Weedon is a good centre from which 
 to visit one or two churches in the 
 neighbourhood of considerable inte- 
 rest. It is the nearest stat. (4 m.) 
 to Daventry, to and from which place 
 an omnibus runs four times daily. 
 Pop. of parish in 1871, 1861, in- 
 cluding 816 persons in the barracks. 
 
 Weedon Bee , so called from the 
 famous convent of Bee in Nor- 
 mandy, to which the manor anciently 
 belonged, or Weedon-on-the-Street, 
 from its position on the line of the 
 Watling Street, is best known from 
 the military depot and barracks 
 established here in 1803 (after the 
 declaration of war with the French 
 Republic") for the Ordnance Depart- 
 ment. The government possesses an 
 estate at Weedon of about 125 acres. 
 There are barracks for 500 men and 
 
Northants. 
 
 Route 4 . — Weedon, 
 
 107 
 
 200 horses ; armoury, storehouses, 
 and magazines, capable of containing 
 800,000 stand of small arms, besides 
 field ordnance and ammunition, — a 
 hospital and workshops. The bar- 
 racks stand high above the river 
 Nen, which here winds through 
 broad, marshy meadows, much over- 
 flowed in the winter. On either side 
 of the river the hills rise into a much 
 broken country ; and we are here on 
 the border of the most picturesque 
 part of Northamptonshire. The de- 
 pot was first established here, nearly 
 in the centre of England, as far from 
 the sea as possible, at a time when 
 an invasion from France was not 
 unexpected. The position is open 
 and healthy, and its many advant- 
 ages have always been appreciated. 
 The barracks are conspicuous in all 
 distant views across the country. 
 
 The village of Weedon— “ a praty 
 thorough fare,” says Leland, “ sette 
 on a playne ground, and much cele- 
 brated by cariars, bycause it stondeth 
 hard by the famose way there com- 
 munely caullid of the people Wathe- 
 ling Street ” — is small and indiffer- 
 ent, consisting mainly of one long 
 street, which rises toward the rly. 
 stat. There was here a palace or 
 villa much favoured by the Mercian 
 kings, which, toward the end of the 
 7th centy., was converted by Ethel- 
 dred of Mercia into a religious house. 
 Etheldred was the uncle of Werburgh, 
 daughter of Wulfere king of Mercia 
 and of Ermenilde; whose mother, 
 Sexburgh, was the daughter of Anna, 
 king of the East Anglians. Er- 
 menilde and Werburgh both took the 
 veil in the convent at Ely, over which 
 Etheldrythe or Etheldreda, sister of 
 Sexburgh, was then presiding. St. 
 Werburgh was afterwards chosen as 
 abbess, or, at least, directress, of the 
 four monasteries of Trentham and 
 Hanbury in Staffordshire, Eepton in 
 Derbyshire, and this of Weedon. 
 Here she spent much of her time ; 
 and it was here that she performed 
 
 the famous miracle by which she 
 drove from the corn-fields all the 
 wild geese which frequented them. 
 Thus Drayton (‘ Polyolbion ’) tells 
 how the river Nen — 
 
 “ Falleth in her way with Weedon, where, 
 ’tis said, 
 
 St. Werburgh, princely born, a most reli- 
 gious maid, 
 
 From these peculiar fields, by prayer, the 
 wild -fowl drove/’ 
 
 Alnoth, her steward or bailiff, who 
 became himself a saint (see Stowe, 
 post), caused all the geese to assemble 
 within the grange. Werburgh or- 
 dered them to take flight, and never 
 more to appear at Weedon. They 
 obeyed; but kept hovering round 
 until one of their companions, who 
 had been killed and eaten, was re- 
 stored to them safe and sound. “ The 
 vulgar superstition,” according to 
 Bridges, “ now observes that no wild 
 geese are ever seen to settle and 
 graze in Weedon Field.” St. Wer- 
 burgh was buried at Hanbury , but 
 her relics were afterwards, for fear 
 of the Northmen, carried within the 
 walls of Chester, where she became 
 the great patroness of the monastery, 
 the ch. of which is now the cathe- 
 dral. At Weedon there was a chapel 
 dedicated to St. Werburgh on the 
 S. side of the ch.-yard. The Ch. of 
 Weedon is of small importance. All is 
 modem except the tower, the lower 
 part of which is Norm., the upper 
 Trans. Some fragments of grotesque 
 sculpture from the former building 
 are placed at the end of the S. aisle. 
 The Watling Street crossed the Nen 
 near the ch. 
 
 The churches of Stowe, Flore, and 
 Nether Heyford, are within a walk 
 from Weedon. All three are inte- 
 resting, but that of Stowe should 
 on no account be missed by the 
 antiquary. ( Ever don ch . , 4 m . S . W . , 
 has a good late Dec. portal, much 
 enriched.) 
 
 (a.) Stowe, usually known as Stowe- 
 nine- Churches, for some reason which 
 
108 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Route 4 . — Northampton to Rugby. 
 
 lias not been clearly explained, al- 
 though the fact that according to the 
 inquisition after the death of Cathe- 
 rine Dudley, temp. Hen. VII., there 
 were nine advowsons appendant to 
 the manor, may throw some light on 
 the matter — stands on high ground 
 about 2 m. from Weedon Stat. The 
 local tradition asserts that attempts 
 were made to build the ch. on nine 
 different sites. But the stones were 
 always displaced at night, and a 
 man set to watch declared that it 
 was done by u summet bigger nor a 
 hog.” The ninth choice was fortu- 
 nate. The Towcester road is fol- 
 lowed as far as a turning, rt., at the 
 top of the hill ; the by-road then en- 
 tered leads to the ch. This road 
 passes along very high ground, and 
 the views from it, N. and E., are 
 wide and fine. Great Brington 
 Rte. 7) on its hill, is very conspicu- 
 ous, and Northampton in the dis- 
 tance beyond it. The country here 
 shows as a richly-wooded district, and 
 is pleasant and attractive. Stowe 
 itself, of which the name sufficiently 
 indicates the antiquity, is placed a 
 little to the W. of Watling Street 
 — the course of which is marked by 
 many such early foundations. At 
 the time of the Domesday survey 
 the manor belonged to Gilbert of 
 Gaunt, nephew of the Conqueror. 
 The fee continued in the hands of 
 his descendants until 1307 ; but the 
 manor had been granted to the 
 family of Armenters before the close 
 of the 12th century. It passed circa 
 1300 to Alice, half-sister and heiress 
 of John de Armenters, and wife of 
 Sir Gerard de Lisle, and afterwards 
 of Lord Segrave. From the Lisles 
 the manor passed by marriage to 
 Lord Berkeley, temp. Ed. III., whose 
 daughter and heiress was the first 
 wife of Richard Beauchamp, Earl of 
 Warwick, by whom she had three 
 daughters, coheiresses. Stowe fell 
 to the lot of the younger sister, wife 
 of George Neville, Lord Latimer of 
 Curby. Two Lord Latimers suc- 
 
 ceeded ; and Stowe then passed by 
 marriage to the family of Danvers. 
 So it came to the Whartons ; and in 
 1716 the three manors of Stowe 
 Magna, Parva, and Nine-Churches 
 were sold to the executors of Dr. 
 Thomas Turner, late President of 
 Corpus Christi College, Oxford, in 
 trust for the “ Governors of the 
 Charity for the relief of Widows and 
 Orphans of the Clergy ” (Corporation 
 of the Sons of the Clergy, established 
 1678). The Charity still holds them. 
 This sketch will better explain the 
 monuments and memorials in the 
 church. 
 
 The position of Stowe ch. (ded. to 
 St. Michael) is one of much quiet 
 beauty. It stands on a lofty mound, 
 sloping toward a green hollow, where 
 are many fine trees. Beyond are 
 low hills and woods, between which 
 are seen the roofs of scattered farm- 
 houses. The ch. has been restored, 
 and the chancel rebuilt (1860) ; but 
 its great interest has been hardly 
 lessened. It consists of western 
 tower, nave, N. and S. aisles, chancel, 
 and aisles ranging with it eastward, 
 and opening by 2 bays N. and S. 
 The tower is probably older than the 
 Conquest, though it has none of the 
 remarkable work which distinguishes 
 Brixworth or the earlier churches 
 (Barton, Barnack, Wittering) on the 
 eastern side of the county. There 
 is, however, long-and-short work 
 visible outside the tower. It is lofty 
 and very massive, without buttresses, 
 and has been bound with iron for 
 safety. Half-way up, on the W. side, 
 is a window splayed externally. (The 
 uppermost part of the tower is an 
 addition.) Within , a tall, narrow, 
 round-headed portal opens to the nave. 
 A shaft (once continuous)? rises on 
 either side of the portal to a plain, 
 square abacus, from which is car- 
 ried a narrow projecting rib, enclo- 
 sing a sort of tympanum above the 
 doorway. A doorway at the end of 
 the N. aisle may be of the same date 
 
Northants. Route 4. — Stowe-Nine-Churches. 
 
 109 
 
 as the tower. That a very early ch. 
 existed here is shown by the remains 
 of sculptured crosses, some of which 
 have plait-work, found during the 
 restoration, and now placed in the 
 N. aisle. The main arcade is early 
 Dec., and the chancel is of similar 
 character. The monuments alone will 
 repay the visitor. On the N. side of 
 the chancel is the very fine effigy of 
 a knight, temp. Hen. III. He is in 
 chain-mail, with a long, open cyclas 
 or surcoat, and shield on 1. arm. 
 The legs are crossed. The rt. hand 
 is on the breast. The effigy is in 
 Purbeck marble. It has been little 
 injured (thanks to the hardness of 
 the stone) ; and the sculpture and 
 design are unusually good. The 
 tomb on which it is placed bears the 
 shield of Lisle. It is probably that of 
 Sir Gerard de ITsle. Opposite, on 
 the S. side, is a monument, which 
 Pennant has styled “the most ele- 
 gant tomb that this or any other 
 kingdom can boast of/’ It is justly 
 celebrated ; but many will much pre- 
 fer the severer dignity of the Ar- 
 menter effigy. This monument is for 
 Elizabeth, fourth daughter and co- 
 heiress of John, Lord Latimer, and 
 wife successively of Sir John Dan- 
 vers and Sir Edmund Carey. It is 
 the work of the sculptor Nicholas 
 Stone — called “ Master Mason ” to 
 James I. and Charles I. (born 1586, 
 died 1617). His pocket-books were 
 in the hands of Yertue, the engraver, 
 and the following entry occurs in 
 one of them ; — “ The 16th of March, 
 1617, I undertoke to mak a tombe 
 for my Lady, mother to my Lord 
 D’ avers, which was all of whit mar- 
 bell and touch, and I set it up at 
 Stow of the Nine Chirches, in North- 
 ampton, some 2 year after, one allter 
 tomb for the wich I had 220 li.” 
 (Touch, or pierre de touche , was the 
 name given to any black stone used 
 for the touching and trying of gold. 
 Statuaries bestowed it on all the 
 black marbles because they were 
 sometimes used for that purpose.) 
 
 The monument was made and set up 
 10 years before the death of the 
 “ Lady Carey ” — who was buried 
 here in 1630 (aged 81). The effigy 
 is in white marble, and the lady is 
 represented as sleeping, her rt. hand 
 laid on the breast, her 1. clasping the 
 ermine-lined robe. The dress is 
 flowing, the stomacher and the pillow 
 on which the head rests richly em- 
 broidered. A kerchief is folded 
 round the head. At her feet is a 
 griffin. The slab on which the effigy 
 rests is of “ touch,” as are the panels 
 on the sides of the tomb. These 
 panels bear inscriptions on white 
 marble, and there are shields of arms 
 between them. The sculptor h as quite 
 thrown off the restraint of the earlier 
 models, but it is worth notice that 
 the position of the hands is nearly 
 the same in the two effigies, of such 
 very different periods, here placed 
 opposite one another. This curious 
 resemblance can only be accidental. 
 
 Against the N. wall of the N. 
 aisle is the elaborate monument of 
 Dr. Thomas Turner, President of 
 Corpus Christi College, Oxford, where 
 he was buried in 1714. This is by 
 Stayner. The Dr. appears “ stand- 
 ing on a terrestrial globe in his Master 
 of Arts gown,” attended by Eeligion, 
 who stands on a celestial globe, and 
 holds a Cross in her 1. hand, and in 
 her right a small temple with a Greek 
 inscription. The Dr. himself holds 
 a book (the Bible) with the words (in 
 the original) “ Guard that which is 
 committed to thy trust ” (1 Tim. vi. 
 20). A radiated eye in clouds is seen 
 above, and there are long inscrip- 
 tions recording the learning and ex- 
 cellence of Thomas Turner. (For 
 his connection with Stowe, see ante.) 
 He was brother of the nonjuror, 
 Francis Turner, Bishop of Ely, but, 
 although he also was a nonjuror, he 
 retained all his preferments. In 1702, 
 the last year allowed for taking the 
 oaths to William and Mary, he left 
 London, July 28th, and went to Ox- 
 ford, with a full resolution to sacrifice 
 
110 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Boute 4 . — Northampton to Bugby. 
 
 everything on the 1st of August, the 
 last possible day. He made, how- 
 ever, no resignation, considering that 
 his refusal to take the oaths would 
 amount to deprivation. “ Whether 
 he was forgotten, or whether the 
 omission was winked at, does not ap- 
 pear; but he retained all his bene- 
 fices to his dying day.” 
 
 In this ch. were preserved the 
 relics of St. Alnoth, “ bailiff” of St. 
 Werburgh at Weedon. After her 
 death he lived here as a hermit, and 
 was at last killed by robbers. The 
 Manor House, now a farm, was on 
 the S. side of the ch.-yard. In the 
 village are one or two houses with 
 small projecting oriels. They are, 
 perhaps, Elizabethan. 
 
 (6.) The Ch. of Floore (in Domes- 
 day Flora , compare the Northern 
 Fleurs. The word seems Teutonic, 
 and may signify a level tract), 
 1 m. from Weedon Stat., adjoins 
 the road to Northampton. It is 
 mainly E. Eng., with an arcade of 
 clustered attached shafts . T wo of the 
 caps on the N. side are enriched with 
 foliage. The western tower is open 
 to the nave, and also to the N. and 
 S. aisles. Its side arches have no 
 caps, or imposts, the moulding run- 
 ning continuously from the ground. 
 The tower itself, and these arches, 
 are Dec. The font is a plain barrel, 
 raised on a modern base. The 
 chancel, E. Eng., was restored in 
 1867. In the S. wall are a double- 
 arched piscina and a sedile. In the 
 N. wall is a singular low recess, 
 almost close to the ground, perhaps 
 designed for the Easter sepulchre. 
 The windows are Dec. and Perp., 
 and a tolerably good Perp. chancel- 
 screen remains, with a corbelled 
 staircase projecting on the N. side, 
 between the chancel and the chan- 
 cel-arch. (Compare the screen at 
 Ashby St. Ledgers, post ) In the 
 chancel is a small brass for Henry 
 Michell (1410) and wife. He is in 
 armour, the long sword (two-handed ?) 
 
 hanging in front, straight between 
 his feet. His hands are clasped 
 above. There is also a brass for 
 Thomas Knaresburght (1498) and 
 wife. The chancel-roof is modem. 
 The S. door is E. Eng. with dog- 
 tooth. The tower (late Dec.) is very 
 massive, with buttresses set angu- 
 larly. The ch. belonged, until the 
 Dissolution, to Merton Priory, in 
 Surrey. Adjoining the ch. is Floore 
 House (Major Fairfax Cartwright). 
 Floore Lake, on the N. side of the 
 ch.-yard, is subject to much flooding, 
 but is called “ one of the finest pieces 
 of old pasture in the county.” 
 
 1J m. S.E. of Floore is Nether 
 Heyford , where the ch. is not so in- 
 teresting. It is mainly E. Eng., but 
 has Dec. and Perp. additions. The 
 chancel is Dec., and on the S. door 
 is an original iron cross, with a ring 
 of cable-form depending from the 
 centre. At the E. end of the S. aisle 
 is the mural monument (coloured) of 
 Francis Morgan, made Justice of the 
 King’s Bench, 1558, in which year 
 he died. There are many inscrip- 
 tions. This is not the Judge Mor- 
 gan who pronounced sentence of 
 death on Lady Jane Grey, “ soon after 
 which he is said to have gone mad, 
 crying out in his fits, ‘Take away 
 this Lady Jane from me;’ and in 
 the distraction he ended his life.” 
 That was Sir Richard Morgan, Lord 
 Chief Justice of the Common Pleas. 
 Bridges confounded the two. Here 
 is also an altar-tomb, with brasses , 
 for Sir Walter Mauntell (died 1467) 
 and his wife. His armour is a good 
 example. Nether Heyford is about 
 1 J m. from the Watling Street. An 
 important Roman pavement and 
 other remains were found here in 
 1699 at a place called Horestone 
 Meadows. They are described by 
 Morton (‘ Nat. Hist, of Northants ’), 
 and seem to have belonged to a 
 considerable villa. The tesserae of 
 the pavement, which filled two carts, 
 were used toward the end of the 
 
Northants. 
 
 Route 4 . — Dodford — Newnham . 
 
 Ill 
 
 last centy. for repairing the roads— a 
 fate which has befallen many a finer 
 relic. John Preston, a very eminent 
 Puritan divine, and a popular teacher, 
 called by Fuller “ the greatest pupil- 
 monger in England in man’s me- 
 mory, ^ was born at Heyford in 1587. 
 He died at Fawsley in 1628. 
 
 From Weedon Stat. an omnibus 
 runs 4 times daily to Daventry (4 
 m.) ; from which town some places 
 of interest may be visited. 
 
 About 1 m. from Weedon, rt. of 
 the road, is the ch. of Dodford , con- 
 taining some monuments worth no- 
 tice. The place is named from a 
 ford across a feeder of the Nen — 
 whether also, as Fuller suggests, 
 “ from Dods, water-weeds, commonly 
 called by children cat’s-tails, grow- 
 ing thereabouts ” — may be left uncer- 
 tain. Dodford formed a portion of 
 the manor or barony of Keynes, 
 which ranged over much of this part 
 of Northamptonshire. It continued 
 in the house of Keynes (or Cahaignes) 
 from the Conquest to Edward III., 
 and then descended by marriage to 
 Ayotes, Cressys, and others. The 
 ch. is E. Eng. (north aisle) and Dec. 
 The chancel was rebuilt in 1850. 
 The monuments to be noticed here 
 are in the N. chapel. On the S. side 
 is the effigy of Sir William Keynes 
 (died 1344), whose burial here is re- 
 corded. The mail armour which he 
 wears is banded — that is, the rings 
 are set edgeways, each row in suc- 
 cession lying alternately 1. and rt. 
 The interstice between each row was 
 apparently designed to render the 
 whole more flexible. Examples of 
 this armour are extremely rare. The 
 shield bears the arms of Keynes. 
 The legs are crossed. Under an 
 arched recess in the N. wall are 2 
 altar-tombs, one beyond the other. 
 On the inner tomb is the shattered 
 wooden effigy of a lady, wearing veil 
 
 and wimple. This probably repre- 
 sents Hawise (living 1329), mother 
 of the last Sir Robert de Keynes. 
 The outer tomb is probably that 
 of her great grand-daughter Wen- 
 tiliana, who died in 1376. The 
 effigy is in stone. There is no wim- 
 ple, and the veil is confined by 
 a fillet. The front of the tomb is 
 divided by panels into compartments, 
 containing small figures of “ weepers.” 
 There are no arms or inscriptions. 
 On the S. side (E. end) is a fine altar- 
 tomb of alabaster for Sir JohnCressy, 
 died 1444, at Tove, in Lorraine. 
 He had been captain of Lisieux, 
 Orbes, and Pontiesque in Normandy, 
 and one of the King’s (Henry VI.) 
 council in France. He is bare- 
 headed, in a very rich suit of plate- 
 armour, with collar of SS. On the 
 hilt of his sword are the letters 
 I.H.S. There are small headless 
 figures, and angels holding shields, on 
 the sides of the tomb. There are 
 many monuments of later date for 
 Wyrleys, Bensons, and others, lords 
 of the manor; besides brasses for 
 William Wylde (died 1422), and 
 wife ; and John Oressy (died 1414), 
 and wife — both good examples. It 
 may be noticed that a portion of the 
 manor belonged at one time to the 
 Colleys, one of whom married Caius 
 Gabriel Cibber, of London, “ sculptor,’* 
 and thus became the mother of Colley 
 Cibber, George II.’s poet laureate. 
 
 [A branch road 1. leads to the 
 village of Newnham , 34 m. from 
 Weedon Stat. The village lies on 
 the S. side of a range of low hills 
 adjoining, 1., the road to Daventry. 
 The country here is pleasantly 
 broken, and the village green of 
 Newnham is picturesque with fine 
 elm-trees. The Ch. (a chapel ry at- 
 tached to Badby, see post ) stands on 
 a hillock, whence the ground slopes 
 steeply away E. towards a small 
 stream. The main arcade is E. Eng. 
 (N. side) and early Dec. (S.). On 
 the N. side is a transitional portal, 
 
112 
 
 Sect. I* 
 
 Route 4 . — Northampton to Rugby. 
 
 now enclosed in the vestry. The 
 chancel is Dec., with good windows, 
 the lower part of one on the S. side 
 being formed into a sedile in an un- 
 usual manner. The W. tower, with 
 a low spire, is Perp., and stands on 
 3 open arches, so that the lower 
 story forms a porch. A groined 
 niche over the western arch contained 
 a figure of the Virgin, to whom the , 
 ch. is dedicated. A niche for the 
 sacring bell remains at the eastern 
 gable of the nave roof. 
 
 Thomas Randolph, poet and dra- 
 matist, one of the “ sons ” of Ben 
 Jonson, and one of those who met at 
 the “ Mermaid, ” was bom here in 
 1605. He died in 1635.] 
 
 The long ridge of Borough Hill, 
 with its entrenchments, rises rt. of 
 the road, just before entering. 
 
 Daventry , generally called Dain- 
 try. Hotels : Peacock (best) ; Wheat- 
 sheaf. The pop. of the parish of 
 Daventry in 1871 was 4051. The 
 etymology of Daventry is quite un- 
 certain, and that which has been 
 proposed — “ Dwy Avon tre” = the 
 “ town of the two Avons from the 
 position of Borough Hill between 
 two brandies of the Nen (called also 
 Avon) is hardly tenable; since the 
 British “tre” never occurs as a 
 suffix. The long, straggling town is 
 of considerable antiquity, but con- 
 tains at present absolutely nothing 
 to interest the stranger. The ch. 
 was rebuilt in 1752, “in the Grecian 
 or Doric style,” and need not be 
 visited. There was a Oluniac priory 
 here, founded about 1090 by Hugh 
 de Leycestre, sometimes called 
 “ Hugo Vicecomes,” although he was 
 not apparently the sheriff of North- 
 amptonshire. It was one of those 
 dissolved by Cardinal Wolsey, for the 
 sake of applying their revenues to 
 the support of his new Colleges at 
 Ipswich and Oxford. The last frag- 
 ments of its buildings were taken 
 down in 1824, and the present gaol 
 was erected on the site, which is near 
 
 the W. end of the ch. Daventry is 
 said to have received its first charter 
 from King John ; but this is only 
 traditional ; and the earliest existing 
 charter of the borough was granted 
 by Elizabeth. There is no doubt, 
 however, that a town existed here 
 from a very early period, although 
 there is no evidence that it was in 
 any way connected with the Roman 
 and Brito-Roman foundations on and 
 below Borough Hill. During the 
 Civil War, Daventry and its neigh- 
 bourhood were the scenes of fre- 
 quent military operations. On the 
 16th of Feb., 1644-5, Sir William 
 and Sir Charles Compton, brothers of 
 the Earl of Northampton, routed near 
 this place 400 of the Parliamentary 
 horse from Northampton. On the 
 31st of May following, Charles I., 
 having taken Leicester by storm, 
 marched towards Oxford, which was 
 then besieged, and (June 7 th) reached 
 Daventry, where he fixed his head- 
 quarters, and slept at the Wheat- 
 sheaf six nights. His army con- 
 sisted of about 10,000 men ; of whom 
 the infantry were stationed in Da- 
 ventry field (then unenclosed), the 
 cavalry at Staverton and the adja- 
 cent villages. On the 12th of June 
 a skirmishing party of Fairfax’s 
 horse took some prisoners; and an 
 alarm being given to the King, who 
 was hunting a buck at Fawsley, 
 within 2 miles of Daventry, the 
 whole army encamped on Borough 
 Hill, and stood under arms all night. 
 Thence they retreated northward. 
 (For a full detail of these move- 
 ments, which immediately preceded 
 the battle of Naseby, see Rte. 8.) 
 It is sai(L that Charles had been 
 warned at Daventry “ by the appari- 
 tion of Lord Strafford in a dream,’ 
 who told him by no means to fight 
 the army of the Parliament then at 
 Northampton, for there was one in 
 it whom he should never conquer by 
 arms.” The vision returned on the 
 following night, and the King was 
 assured “ that if he kept his resolu- 
 
Northants. 
 
 Boute 4 . — Daventry. 
 
 113 
 
 tion of fighting he was undone/’ . . . 
 “ He was often afterwards heard to 
 say that he wished he had taken the 
 warning, and not fought at Naseby.” 
 (The story conies from the MS. nar- 
 rative of a Mr. Savage, entitled 
 ‘ Ooritani Lachrymantes,’ and is 
 printed in Baker, i. 325.) 
 
 Lambert, after the death of Crom- 
 well, was one of the leading mem- 
 bers of the military council, called 
 the “Wallingford Cabal.” He op- 
 posed the entrance of General Monk 
 with his Scottish army into Eng- 
 land ; and after the Long Parliament, 
 under Monk’s influence, had been 
 dissolved, and the question of the 
 King’s return was pressing, Lambert 
 attempted to collect the scattered 
 regiments, and made Daventry one 
 of the places of rendezvous. His ob- 
 ject was certainly to resist the restora- 
 tion of Charles; more than this is 
 unknown. He appeared himself at 
 Daventry with six troops of horse. 
 Troops were marched against him 
 from Northampton. The two bodies 
 encountered ; but Lambert’s men 
 would not fight. Lambert himself 
 rode off at full speed, followed by 
 Colonel Ingoldsby, who came up with 
 him (according to the local tradition) 
 on Staverton field, and made him 
 prisoner in spite of his appeal, “ What 
 good will my life or imprisonment 
 do to you?” Lambert was conveyed 
 to London, and was condemned to 
 perpetual imprisonment ; which he 
 underwent partly in Guernsey, and 
 partly on St. Nicholas Island, in 
 Plymouth Sound, where he died in 
 the winter of 1683. The roads were 
 full of troops flocking to join him at 
 the time of his defeat; but not a 
 blow was struck afterwards. This 
 was the last “ struggle of the inter- 
 regnum.” 
 
 The mezzotint engraver, John 
 Smith, was bom at Daventry in 
 1652, and died in 1743. He was 
 buried in St. Peter’s Ch., North- 
 ampton. (Rte. 1.) 
 
 Although Daventry itself is a 
 
 place of little interest, the visitor 
 will find his account in climbing to 
 the top of Borough Hill , which over- 
 hangs the town on the E. The view 
 from it is of great extent, and very 
 fine ; and the entrenchments on the 
 hill, greatly injured as they have 
 been, are still of much interest. 
 Borough (the name indicates that 
 the fortification of the hill had been 
 recognned, and probably made of 
 service, by the first English settlers) 
 was, no doubt, one of those British 
 entrenchments which were adopted 
 by Roman conquerors, and somewhat 
 altered by them. It has been looked 
 upon as the “ lolty entrenchment 
 inaccessible to cavalry,” within which 
 the Iceni and confederate tribes had 
 posted themselves when they were 
 attacked and defeated by Ostorius 
 Scapula, a.d„ 51. This is, at least, 
 doubtful; but in all probability it 
 represents the Beneventa or Banna- 
 vanta of the Antonine Itineraries 
 (ii. and viii.), which is placed mid- 
 way between Yenonis (High Cross 
 in Leicestershire) and Lactodorum 
 (Towcester). It is certain that the 
 Borough Camp was an important 
 Roman station, and explorations 
 made at its N.W. angle by Baker, 
 the historian, in 1823, and in 1852 
 by Mr. Botfield, brought to light the 
 foundations of the Prsetorium (or at 
 least of some very extensive build- 
 ing), with hypocaust, baths, and 
 tessellated pavements. The entrench- 
 ments, when perfect, had a circum- 
 ference of rather more than 2| m., 
 and the camp has thus been fairly 
 called one of the largest, if not quite 
 the largest, in England. They fol- 
 lowed the irregular outline of the 
 hill ; and the trenches varied in 
 number at different points, according 
 as the form of the ground called for 
 more or less protection. The general 
 outline was that of a long parallelo- 
 gram, narrowing towards the N.W. 
 corner. The whole area enclosed 
 was about 150 acres. This N.W. 
 corner was the strongest portion, and 
 
114 
 
 Sect. L 
 
 Boute 4 . — Northampton to Bugby. 
 
 was cut off from the rest of the camp 
 by lofty double valla. Close within 
 these stood the Roman building 
 which has been called the Praoto- 
 rium. Within the ditch on the E. 
 side, and adjoining the farmyard 
 there, is a spring called Spelwell. 
 Lesser dykes crossed the great camp, 
 or made enclosures within it ; and 
 toward the centre of the area was a 
 group of 18 tumuli, of various sizes. 
 Many of these were opened by Baker, 
 and were found to contain urns and 
 pottery of different dates, some Brito- 
 Roman, and others probably earlier. 
 (Some of these urns are now in the 
 Museum at Northampton.) Since 
 the enclosure of “ Daventry Field,” 
 and the division of the hill by 
 hedges, the lines of entrenchment 
 have been gradually effaced, and in 
 some parts they have disappeared 
 altogether. The tumuli have suffered 
 in the same manner ; and a small 
 square entrenchment on the S.E. side 
 of the hill, noticed by Morton, is now 
 barely discernible. But the site alone 
 is sufficiently noticeable ; and no one 
 can climb to that commanding sum- 
 mit, “ and survey the various lesser 
 hills that rise below him on every 
 side, without being convinced that so 
 sovereign a position must have been 
 occupied from the earliest period of 
 military speculation and defence.” 
 The line of the Watling Street may 
 be uninterruptedly traced for many 
 miles in each direction, “ and at in- 
 terval s, 45 m. by the itinerary of 
 Antoninus, from Lactodorum (Tow- 
 cester) to Manduessedon (Manceter, 
 in Warwickshire), the camp at Older- 
 bury near that station being visible 
 on a clear day.” (A branch from the 
 Watling Street at Weedon seems to 
 have passed to Borough Hill itself; 
 and the Portway, an ancient road 
 traversing Northants and Oxford- 
 shire, ran not far from the hill, to- 
 ward Preston Capes, where its line is 
 marked by some entrenchments. The 
 Portlow Hills, at Kilsby, 5 m. N. of 
 Daventry, retain the name of that old 
 
 road.) The great camp of Arbury 
 Hill, near Badby (see post), is visible 
 from the southern point of the hill ; 
 as is Castle Dykes, near Farthing- 
 stone. The field of Naseby is seen 
 N., and in the same direction, but 
 nearer, Holdenby House, where 
 Charles was seized by Cornet Joyce. 
 Northampton and the depot at Wee- 
 don are conspicuous ; and rising from 
 the great central plain of England, 
 of which these tossed hills form the 
 eastern boundary, appear the spires 
 of Coventry. The scene on a clear 
 day, or when shadow chases sun- 
 gleams into the far distance, is one to 
 be remembered, not only for its own 
 beauty, but for the wide-reaching 
 historical interests and associations 
 which it suggests. Before the en- 
 closure of the hill, in 1805, the circuit 
 of the camp was used as a race- 
 course. 
 
 Below the hill, and conspicuous in 
 the landscape, are two large reser- 
 voirs, belonging to the Grand Junc- 
 tion Canal Company; one of which 
 covers 117J acres, and is 35 ft. deep 
 when full ; the other covers 35 j acres, 
 and is 26 ft. deep. These reservoirs, 
 often very picturesquely placed, and 
 special features in the landscape, 
 are frequent on the S.W. border of 
 Northamptonshire, in connection with 
 the Grand Junction and the Oxford 
 canals, which meet at Braunston, 
 2J m. from Daventry. The Braun- 
 ston Tunnel, through which the 
 Grand Junction passes, is 2042 yards 
 in length. This canal runs to Blis- 
 worth, and so into Buckinghamshire. 
 The Oxford Canal passes from Oxford 
 to Birmingham. The “ middle lias,” 
 or “marlstone,” in which the reser- 
 voirs are formed, is rich in springs 
 of water. On it rest the clays and 
 rocks of the Upper Lias, and above 
 them the Inferior Oolite beds of 
 Northampton sand. This great liassic 
 and oolitic, belt stretches across Eng- 
 land from the Dorsetshire coast to 
 the N.E. coast of Yorkshire. The 
 peculiar outline of all this part of 
 
North ants. Route 4. — Borough Hill — Staverton. 
 
 115 
 
 ..Northamptonshire, with sudden steep 
 descents and narrow valleys, is due 
 to this formation. 
 
 On the S. side of Borough Hill, 
 and closely adjoining the Weedon 
 Road, is the place known as Burnt 
 Walls , a field of about 6 acres, 
 covered with what seem to be founda- 
 tions of ruined buildings. Accord- 
 ing to Morton, there was a tradition 
 that a “house or castle of John of 
 Gaunt ” stood here. But the name 
 u ad brende walles” occurs in 1253, 
 in an agreement between Robert 
 Fitzwaller and the Prior of Daventry, 
 indicating that the buildings, what- 
 ever they may have been, had been 
 destroyed by fire. The whole area 
 of the field is marked by great in- 
 equalities. “ Loads of stone of ruined 
 walls and foundations have been 
 digged up here/’ says Morton, whose 
 ‘Nat. Hist, of Northants’ was pub- 
 lished in 1712 ; and Baker asserts 
 that across the road, Roman bricks 
 and tiles have been discovered. It 
 has been conjectured that this was 
 the site of a town named Isannavaria 
 or Isannavatia, mentioned in the 6th 
 Iter of Antoninus, and which the 
 distances in miles seem to confound 
 with Bennaventa. A field called 
 Great Sliawney in the adjoining 
 parish of Norton has also been re- 
 garded as the site of Isannavaria, of 
 which name “ Shawney ” may be a 
 lingering trace. However this may 
 be, it has been held that the 
 * £ Isanna ” is connected with the 
 Aryan root of the word “ iron,” and 
 that the town of Isannavaria, rising 
 so near Bennaventa, was either the 
 great iron depot or the iron factory 
 of the district. That the Romans 
 worked the iron-stone of Northamp- 
 tonshire we know ; but the fact that 
 no traces of smelting-houses or heaps 
 of iron scoriae have been found here, 
 seems to make such an explanation 
 of the name, and of the rise of the 
 town, somewhat uncertain. 
 
 An excursion of some interest — 
 
 to Staverton, Arbury Hill, Catesby, 
 and Hellidon — may be made from 
 Daventry; and Fawsley Farit (Sir 
 Raynald Knightley, Bart.) may best 
 be visited from that place. 
 
 (a) The tourist may take the road 
 to Staverton (2m.) where the church 
 is worth notice. The arches of the 
 main arcade (early Dec.) are un- 
 usually narrow ; whilst three arches, 
 apparently of the same date, separate 
 the chancel from the N. aisle. This 
 aisle projects eastward beyond the 
 chancel. The first ch. here seems to 
 have been E. Eng., since there are 
 E. Eng. portions at the W. end of 
 the N. aisle and elsewhere. But the 
 whole was nearly rebuilt in the Dec. 
 period, to which the present chancel 
 belongs. The projecting eastern bay 
 of the N. aisle is the traditional 
 Lady-chapel, and is perhaps some- 
 what later than the rest of the aisle. 
 The E. window approaches the flam- 
 boyant. N. is a corbelled bracket 
 with foliage, and a rich canopy above 
 it. S. is a moulded ledge with ball- 
 flower ornament, such as might have 
 carried a group of figures. In the 
 wall between aisle and chancel are 
 sedilia, piscina, and a hagioscope. 
 Against the N. wall is a small Eliza- 
 bethan monument with brass for 
 Thomas Wylmer, 1580. The aisle 
 roof is Dec. At the E. end of the 
 S. wall of the nave is a very large 
 and lofty 3-light Perp. window. 
 The W. tower is Perp. with fine 
 belfry windows, transomed. There 
 are Perp. N. and S. porches. 
 
 An interesting tract of high ground 
 is passed over in proceeding from 
 Staverton toward Catesby. This is 
 the watershed from which the streams 
 flow in different directions; the Nen 
 (of which the principal source is 
 here) taking a N.E. course; the 
 Learn flowing westward into War- 
 wickshire, gives name to Leamington 
 and then loses itself in the Ouse. 
 The sources of these two rivers are 
 
116 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Boute 4 . — Northampton to Bugby. 
 
 not far distant, and are both on this 
 ridge. The Warwickshire Avon 
 rises farther north, close to Naseby ; 
 and the Welland, which runs north- 
 ward, and about 50 m. marks the 
 border of Northamptonshire, rises at 
 Sibbertoft, north of Naseby. The 
 springs of the Cherwell, flowing S.W. 
 toward the Thames, rise at Char- 
 welton, not far S. of Staverton (see 
 Rte. 5). But all these springs rise 
 from the same ridge of high ground, 
 which is in fact the central water- 
 shed of England. It is of no very 
 great height, and never attains to 
 much more than 800 ft. above the 
 sea-level ; but it has here the reputa- 
 tion of being “ the highest ground in 
 England,’’ and since Ingleborough 
 and Helvellyn are far distant there 
 is nothing within sight to dispute 
 the claim. The highest point here 
 is Arbury Hill (804 ft.) which lies rt. 
 of the road from Staverton to Catesby, 
 and is crowned by an entrenchment 
 of which the lines have been much 
 effaced. The outer bank, however, 
 enclosing an area of about 12 acres, 
 is still clearly traceable. This camp 
 occurs as one of the boundary marks 
 in a grant by Edmund the Elder 
 (a.d. 944), “cuidam pontifici meo 
 iElfrico '* (who may perhaps be 
 JElfric, bp. of Hereford) of lands 
 which now form the parishes of 
 Badby, Dodford, and Everdon (Cod. 
 Diplom. ii., No. 399). The “eald 
 burh ” is there called Badanbyrig, a 
 name preserved in that of Badby, 
 the ch. of which parish is seen below. 
 Arbury, by which name the hill and 
 camp are now generally known, 
 occurs in other parts of England (as 
 in the parish of Thenford in this 
 county, see Kte. 6), in connection 
 with ancient earthworks. “ Stud- 
 borough ” is a third name sometimes 
 given to this Arbury. (Studfall or 
 Stotfall are names of circular earth- 
 works at Aldborough and at Amble- 
 forth in Yorkshire, and Studfall 
 Castle is the name by which the 
 Roman castrum at Lymne in Kent is . 
 
 known. The word seems to signify 
 a “fallen place.”) The views from 
 Arbury Hill are fine and interesting, 
 though hardly so extensive as those 
 from Borough Hill. In one direction 
 they extend to Rugby and Coventry ; 
 in another up the valley toward 
 Brington and Northampton, over a 
 wide tree-covered country. Nen pool, 
 the source of the river, is a marshy 
 swamp below the hill on the N.W. 
 (For the village and ch. of Badby, 
 see post , Exc. b.) 
 
 Catesby lies very near the War- 
 wickshire border, about 3 m. from 
 Staverton. There was there a small 
 priory of Benedictine nuns (they 
 have also been called Cistercian and 
 Gilbertine — the latter by Leland), 
 founded by Philip de Esseby, son of 
 Sasfrid, the proprietor recorded in 
 Domesday. This priory lay at the 
 foot of the hill, toward Warwickshire. 
 On the hill-top was the parish ch., 
 pulled down after the Dissolution, 
 with the exception of a small frag- 
 ment of wall containing an E. Eng. 
 window. The ch.-yd. is still used. 
 In it is a pyramidal monument for 
 members of the Parkhurst family, for 
 some time lords of the manor. (John 
 Parkhurst, the lexicographer (Greek 
 and Hebrew), was born here in 1728, 
 died 1797). From the ch.-yd. there is 
 a wide view into Warwickshire, with 
 Shuckburgh Park conspicuous on 
 one of the nearer hills. (For the 
 story of the meeting of King Charles 
 with Richard Shuckburgh, the day 
 before the battle of Edgehill, see 
 Rte. 5, Edgehill.') 
 
 A long elm avenue, picturesque in 
 parts, descends the hill toward Lower 
 Catesby, where stood the priory. 
 Half-way down is a modern house, 
 commanding very fine views, belong- 
 ing to George Attenborough, Esq. 
 The priory itself stood quite on the 
 low ground, and was succeeded by a 
 manor house of William III.’s time 
 with cedar panelled rooms and much 
 
Nokthants. Route 4. — Catesby - 
 
 carving. This in turn has disap- 
 peared; the chapel which belonged 
 to it, which was that of the priory, 
 long served as the small parish ch. of 
 Oatesby, hut was pulled down in 
 1859, and replaced by the existing 
 small structure which contains por- 
 tions of the old carving and wood- 
 work. The pulpit and the woodwork 
 of the seats seem to be of the time of 
 Charles L In the S. wall is a frag- 
 ment of good ancient stone-work (late 
 Dec.), consisting of three richly 
 canopied arches forming sedilia, and 
 a piscina. Between each arch is a 
 smaller long recess in which is a 
 figure. The priory was of no great 
 wealth ; hut one of its prioresses was 
 Margaret (died 1257), sister of St. 
 Edmund of Canterbury, and herself 
 of great reputation for sanctity. 
 Among other prioresses occur the 
 unusual names of Amabilia, Biblisia, 
 and Orabilis or Orabilla. The house 
 was dissolved as one of the lesser 
 monasteries, in spite of the recom- 
 mendation of the commissioners, who 
 found the prioress “a sure, wyse, 
 discrete, and very relygious woman,” 
 and her “ nunnys ” no less excellent. 
 The home and lands were granted 
 first to John Onley, in whose family 
 the manor remained until it was 
 bought by the Parkhursts. The old 
 stew ponds of the priory are still to 
 be seen near the church. 
 
 From Catesby the excursion may 
 be continued (about 2 m.) to Hellidon , 
 a picturesque village, lying in the 
 midst of broken, hilly ground, full of 
 sketching subjects for the artist. 
 There is a very pleasant view from 
 the ch.-yd. ; and from the vicarage, 
 which is on higher ground, the pro- 
 spect is still finer. The varied and 
 crossing outlines of all this country 
 are very striking ; the hills rise 
 abruptly from the high level, and 
 portions of their sides, and the valleys, 
 are well clothed with wood, chiefly 
 elm. The scenery is thoroughly 
 English; quiet and contenting, and 
 
 -Hellidon — Fawsley Parle . 117 
 
 suggesting descriptions of the elder 
 poets, Spenser, Milton, and Shake- 
 speare himself. From the higher 
 grounds the views which open in all 
 directions are grand. The Malvern 
 hills are distinctly visible in a clear 
 day ; and even the Wrekin in Shrop- 
 shire is, it is said, sometimes to be 
 distinguished. The source of the 
 Learn is near the eastern entrance of 
 the village, in such a “pool” as that 
 from which the.Nen emerges under 
 Arbury Hill. The little ch. of Helli- 
 don (haligdun = holy hill ?) is Dec. 
 with a newly -built (1875) N. aisle 
 and arcade, in which stone of dif- 
 ferent colours has been introduced. 
 
 In returning to Staverton some 
 modern cottages are seen 1., in one of 
 which is a rich 14th-centy. doorway 
 taken from the Priory buildings at 
 Catesby. 
 
 ( b ) Fawsley Parle (Sir Eainald 
 Knightley, Bart.) is about 3J m. 
 from Daventry. The road turns off 
 at the village of Badby, where is 
 a Dec. ch. of no very great inte- 
 rest. A remarkable Perp. clerestory 
 has been added, the 10 windows of 
 which' are continuous, with no wall 
 spaces between them. From the 
 village the road (commanding plea- 
 sant views) ascends towards the en- 
 trance of Badby wood, now incor- 
 porated in the park of Fawsley. This 
 wood is a famous fox-cover and a 
 well-known “ meet.” It is closely 
 timbered, and is rich in wild-flowers. 
 Walks have been cut through it, and 
 the main drive extends through the 
 wood to the open park. This, in- 
 cluding the wood, covers about 700 
 acres, and is well stocked with deer. 
 It is varied and well-wooded, and 
 from many points there are very 
 beautiful views over this hilly and 
 wooded part of Northamptonshire. 
 In the park, and passed, rt., on the 
 way to the hall, is the “Lodge” 
 which served as the dower-house of 
 Fawsley, and is now a very pictu- 
 
118 
 
 Route 4 . — Fawsley House . 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 resque ruin. It is of red brick with 
 stone-dressings, gables, and a turret, 
 and may have been built within the 
 first 20 years of the 16th centy. The 
 chimneys are various in design, and 
 deserve notice. The ruin is thickly 
 clothed with ivy, too much so to 
 please the antiquary, since the walls 
 yet standing are considerably endan- 
 gered by it. There are fine trees round 
 the ruins, which afford an excellent 
 subject for the artist. The Lodge 
 was last inhabited by Lady Anne 
 Knightley, who died in 1704. The 
 “ Knightley breed 99 of cattle was, 
 and still is, famous. The late Sir 
 Charles Knightley was a great patron 
 of agriculture and cattle-breeding. 
 
 Fawsley(in Domesday Falelav and 
 Falewesle) was in very early times 
 the head of a great district, out of 
 which many of the neighbouring 
 parishes were afterwards formed. 
 The 2 hundreds of Gravesend and 
 Eagelweardsle long paid “ church 
 shot” to Fawsley, thereby recog- 
 nising it as their ecclesiastical head. 
 The King held the lordship at the 
 time of the Domesday survey ; and 
 families of Russell, Capes, and 
 Fawsley possessed it until, in 1415, 
 the manor was bought by Richard 
 Knightley, whose descendants have 
 since retained it. The house of 
 Knightley is one of the very few in 
 England which can prove an un- 
 doubted descent from an ancestor 
 recorded in Domesday — Rainald, lord 
 of Knightley (Chenistelei) in Staf- 
 fordshire. whose son William assumed 
 the local name. Ever since the 
 Knightleys have been distinguished 
 as the owners of broad lands and the 
 contractors of many fortunate mar- 
 riages (“ tu, felix Austria, nube ”). 
 The achievement which hangs at the 
 end of the great hall bears no less 
 than 384 quarterings. The house 
 has been much altered and added 
 to, the latest additions having been 
 made within the last (1875) 10 years, 
 and not without good architectural 
 effect. The earliest portions of the 
 
 house seem to be of the first half of 
 the 15th centy., when the Knightleys 
 first came here. The great hall, 
 which, with its oriel, is now the most 
 striking feature, may be later, per- 
 haps about 1500. The original en- 
 trance to the hall was at the S. end 
 (from the west) ; but this doorway 
 has been built up. Opposite to it, 
 and leading into the butteries and 
 kitchens, was another door, which 
 has been removed farther to the N., 
 and the original opening has been 
 built up. On the kitchen side of the 
 hall, however, the arch of the door-> 
 way remains, and the spandrels are 
 filled in, one with donation, the other 
 with two dogs gnawing a bone. The 
 kitchens, which are worth attention, 
 seem to be of the same date as the 
 hall. The oriel in the latter is 
 placed, very unusually, some way 
 down from the daised end. It con- 
 tains some old glass with shields of 
 arms, and is much enriched on the 
 exterior. The windows and ceiling 
 have been altered. The great chim- 
 ney, with wide arch, and a very rich 
 cornice above it, sculptured with 
 grapes and foliage and a projecting 
 bracket, representing a stag’s head 
 amid twisted branches, is striking. 
 Above the oriel is a small chamber, 
 now inaccessible, except by a ladder, 
 but once reached by a staircase, 
 whether within or without is doubt- 
 ful. In this chamber were printed 
 some of the ‘ Martin Marprelate * 
 tracts. These were anonymous pam- 
 phlets, issued from a secret press, 
 written in support of the Puritans, 
 whom the Government were trying 
 to suppress. The first appeared in 
 1588, the year of the Armada. The 
 printer was one Waldegrave, who 
 set up his movable press first at 
 Moulsey, in Surrey, then at Fawsley, 
 afterwards at Norton, another seat 
 of the Knightleys, then at Coventry 
 and at Woolstan in Warwickshire. 
 Sir Richard Knightley was examined 
 before the Council of the Star 
 Chamber, and confessed that “ at 
 
Northants. 
 
 119 
 
 Route 4 . — Fawsley Church . 
 
 his house at Fawsley a book called 
 
 the ‘Epitome’ was printed 
 
 Touching the author of the book he 
 knoweth not, unless it were Penry ” 
 — a young Welshman, who died in 
 prison after the press had beep 
 seized. The Knightleys at this 
 time, and later, supported the cause 
 of the Puritans. Richard Knightley 
 married the eldest and favourite 
 daughter of Hampden, and at Faws- 
 ley, before the outbreak of the Civil 
 War, many conferences took place 
 between the chief Parliamentarian 
 leaders. It is said that a printing- 
 press was again at that time set up 
 in the secret chamber. (See Nugent's 
 ‘Memorials of Hampden.’) 
 
 In the dining-room are 'portraits 
 of Thomas Lord Grey of Groby, full- 
 length, in armour, a page carries his 
 helmet ; Charles XII. of Sweden, 
 full-length ; Sir Richard Knightley, 
 1567 (set. 33), the patron of the 
 “ Marprelate ” press. His dress is 
 yellow, with black cloak and ruff. 
 At the back of the portrait are the 
 lines ; — 
 
 “ In vita Fortuna. 
 
 « So hitherto, by helpe of heavenlie powers, 
 
 My doubtful liffe hath ronne his posting 
 race ; 
 
 Whos recklesse youth hath passed such 
 stormie showers 
 
 As might have cute me of in halfe this 
 space. 
 
 Yet mightie Jove, by his celestial grace, 
 
 Hath brought my barke to such a blissful 
 shore 
 
 As day lie doth advance me more and more. 
 
 In vita Fortuna.” 
 
 Here are also his wife, Lady Eliz. 
 Seymour (youngest daughter of the 
 Protector Somerset) ; and Lucy 
 Knightley, Esq., in a masquerade 
 dress, by Sir Joshua Reynolds. There 
 are other portraits of less interest. 
 
 The drawing-room contains a 
 nymph and infant Bacchus, sculp- 
 tured at Rome in 1866 by G. M. 
 Benzoni. 
 
 Some large pieces of artificial water 
 adjoin the house, and the Ch. is at no 
 great distance. This is little more j 
 
 than the family chapel and cemetery, 
 and consists of a short nave, chancel, 
 and N. and S. aisle. These may be E. 
 Eng., and a small E. Eng. portal de- 
 serves notice. There are some curious 
 carvings on the bench-ends. The monu- 
 ments are — S. side of nave, towards 
 the E. — an altar-tomb with effigies of 
 Sir Richard Knightley (died 1534), and 
 his wife, Joanna Skinerton. He is in 
 armour, with collar of SS, and 
 bareheaded. The effigies, in alabaster, 
 are finely sculptured, and have been 
 coloured. The altar-slab is black. 
 There are small alabaster figures of 
 weepers at the sides. On the pavement 
 of the nave is the brass of Thomas 
 Knightley (died 1516) ; and brasses 
 (half-lengths) of Sir Edmund Knight- 
 ley (died 1542) and his wife Ursula 
 Yere. In the N. aisle is a mas- 
 sive monument commemorating three 
 generations, and by no means to 
 be admired — Sir Valentyne (died 
 1566) ; his son Sir Richard, of the 
 “ Marprelate ” press (died 1615) ; his 
 son, a second Sir Valentyne Knight- 
 ley (died 1618) ; and Sir Yalentyne’s 
 brother, Sir Francis Knightley (died 
 1619), are recorded in the inscriptions. 
 There are many other Knightley me- 
 morials in the ch., but these are the 
 principal. (A full and accurate 
 pedigree of the Knightleys will be 
 found in Baker.) Among the vicars 
 of Fawsley occurs John Dod (1624- 
 1645 ; “ By nature,” says Fuller, “ a 
 witty, by industry a learned, by grace 
 a godly divine.” Dod was a famous 
 Puritan, and was occasionally, both 
 here and at Canons Ashby (where he 
 had been rector) silenced for non-con- 
 formity.” He is best known as the 
 “ Decalogist,” from his exposition of 
 the Ten Commandments ; and he was, 
 according to tradition, the preacher 
 of a sermon on the word “ Malt ” — the 
 text having been suggested by cer- 
 tain Cambridge students, who caught 
 him on the high road, and compelled 
 him to preach from the stump of a 
 hollow tree, (This sermon will be 
 found in ‘ Memorials of the Rev. John 
 
120 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Boute 4 . — Northampton to Bugby. 
 
 Dod,’ reprinted at Northampton 
 (Taylor), 1875.) “The worthy say- 
 ings of old Mr. Dod” had a great 
 provincial reputation, and were often 
 pasted on cottage-walls. Another 
 vicar was John Wilkins , afterwards 
 Bishop of Chester, one of the pro- 
 jectors of the Royal Society, and au- 
 thor of some curious books, among 
 which ‘ A Discovery of a New World ’ 
 (the moon), ‘with a Discourse con- 
 cerning the possibility of a passage 
 thither,’ was written at Fawsley. 
 
 “ Old Mr. Dod ” was his maternal 
 grandfather, and Wilkins was born 
 here at his house. 
 
 (For the road from Daventry to 
 Byfield, and thence to Banbury, see 
 Rte. 5.) 
 
 Starting again from the Weedon 
 station, the rly. soon passes rt. Bruck- 
 liall , the seat of the Rev. T. C. Thorn- 
 ton. The manor for some time 
 belonged to the Eytons, who may 
 have built the house, which is partly 
 Jacobsean, but has been much altered 
 and added to. It contains some por- 
 traits ; among which is one which, 
 without any certainty, has been re- 
 garded as that of Robert Cates by, 
 the conspirator (see post , Ashby St. 
 Ledger). The little ch. has Norm, 
 and E. Eng. portions. The chancel 
 has been almost rebuilt since 1840. 
 After passing the woods of Brockhall, 
 the old house of Norton (Alfred Sey- 
 mour, Esq.) is seen 1. Norton was 
 long the residence of Beriah Botfield, 
 Esq. (d. 1863), a well-known anti- 
 quary and lover of books. Norton at 
 one time belonged to the Knightleys, 
 and the present house seems to have 
 been built by Sir Richard Knightley, 
 who, after 1588, made it his principal 
 residence. It was much altered by 
 the Botfields. The Ch. is Dec. and 
 Perp. ; but is chiefly interesting from 
 its monuments. In the S. aisle is 
 an elaborate altar-tomb, with rich 
 canopy, for Lady Elizabeth Seymour, 
 second wife of Sir Richard Knightley, 
 and fourth daughter of the Protector 
 
 Somerset. Her effigy (she died 1602) 
 is richly dressed and coloured. (Sir 
 Richard was buried at Fawsley, see 
 ante.) In front of the tomb are 
 tablets with verses, recording the 
 lady’s merits : — 
 
 “ Whose praises, while the sun and moon do 
 
 shine, 
 
 By tract of time shall never be contriv’d.” 
 
 In the N. aisle is a mural monument, 
 with small figure, for Elizabeth 
 Yerney, died 1633. In the chancel 
 is a tablet for Dudley Knightley, died 
 1602, from the effect of a musket- 
 shot at the siege of Ostend. There 
 are many other monuments of later 
 date; and a small brass for William 
 Knyght (died 1506) and wife. 
 
 (The little ch. of Whilton , 1J m. 
 rt. of the rly., was originally E. Eng., 
 but has been nearly rebuilt.) 
 
 Nothing calls for special notice 
 until we reach the so-called 
 
 Crick Stat. The village of Crick 
 (for which' see Rte. 7) is, however, 
 at least 3 m. distant, on the rt. ; and 
 the stat. is really that of Watford, 
 which village is about \ m. dis- 
 tant, rt. 
 
 The Grand Union Canal, which 
 connects this district with the Trent 
 and Mersey navigation, joins the 
 Grand Junction Canal in the parish 
 of Norton. It is crossed in walking 
 from the stat.. to Watford. 
 
 Watford Ch. is not specially im- 
 portant, but may repay a visit. It is 
 early Dec., except the chancel and 
 tower, which are Perp. The chancel 
 is unusually long, with 3 large Perp. 
 windows on the S. side. On the N. 
 an arch, now closed, opened to a 
 chantry, at present used as a vestry. 
 Eastward of this arch is the arch of a 
 very rich Dec. tomb, with elaborate 
 mouldings; either a founder’s tomb 
 or an Easter sepulchre. This tomb 
 was open to the chantry N. This 
 chantry is early Dec., like the nave ; 
 but in the N. wall are three tomb- 
 
121 
 
 Northants. Route 4. — Watford — Ashby St. Ledgers. 
 
 recesses of late Dec. character, with 
 rich finials. The S. porch retains 
 the dog-tooth, but is early Dec. in 
 its mouldings. Watford at the date 
 (Edward I.) of the early portions of 
 the eh. was divided between 4 daugh- 
 ters of Eustace Arden. Three por- 
 tions afterwards centered in the family 
 of Burnaby, and in their time the 
 chancel and tower were erected. The 
 present lord of the manor is Lord 
 Henley ; and there are some Henley 
 monuments in the chancel, including 
 one for Morton, Lord Henley, 1st 
 Baron Henley of Chardstock, the 
 diplomatist, died 1830. Watford 
 Court (Lord Henley) adjoins the ch., 
 and has Elizabethan portions. 
 
 [From this station the tourist may 
 visit Ashby St. Ledgers , the old seat 
 of the Catesbys, where the old house 
 and ch. are of interest. The distance 
 from Crick station is 2 m. The 
 Catesbys (who took their name from 
 Catesby, near Staverton, see ante ) 
 acquired the manor of Ashby in the 
 reign of Richard II. by marriage 
 with the heiress of Robert Cranford. 
 It was Sir William Catesby who, 
 under Richard III. figured as the 
 “ Cat ” in the well-known rhyme — 
 
 “ The rat, the cat, and Lovell our dog, 
 
 Rule all England under the hog.” 
 
 The rat was Sir Richard Radcliffe ; 
 Lord Lovell was the dog ; the hog 
 refers to the boar which the King 
 had adopted as one of the supporters 
 of his shield of arms. This is of 
 course the Catesby of Shakespeare’s 
 Richard III., where he is made to 
 appear on the field of Bosworth, but 
 his farther fortunes are not noticed. 
 He was taken prisoner there, and three 
 days later was beheaded at Leicester. 
 In the curious will made on the 
 morning of his execution (see it in 
 Baker, vol. i., and in Dugdale’s 4 War- 
 wickshire’) he desires that his body 
 may be buried in the ch. of Ashby 
 St. Ledgers (as it was). He was 
 attainted in the ensuing parliament, 
 
 [ Northants , (fee.] 
 
 and his estates were granted by the 
 Crown to Sir James Blount. But his 
 son, George Catesby, obtained a re- 
 versal of the attainder, and recovered 
 the estates. He provides by will for 
 his burial in the church of Ashby ; 
 “appointing that two marble stones 
 should be brought thither, the price 
 of each 61. 13s. 4 d. : one to be layd 
 upon his father and mother, and the 
 other upon himself, as a memorial 
 for him and his wife.” Sir William 
 Catesby, great-grandson of this 
 George, was, Nov. 15, 1581, with Lord 
 Vaux of Harrowden, and Sir Thomas 
 Tresham of Rushden, cited before 
 the Star Chamber; when all these 
 were convicted, chiefly on the con- 
 fession of Campion the Jesuit, of har- 
 bouring Jesuits in their houses, and of 
 being present at the celebration of 
 mass. The son and successor of Sir 
 William was Robert Catesby, probably 
 the projector, certainly the head, of 
 the Gunpowder Plot. He had been 
 engaged in the plot of Essex, and is 
 described as a man of considerable 
 talents, daring, and of inflexible reso- 
 lution, and ready to sacrifice every- 
 thing in the cause of the Catholics. 
 It is of course unnecessary to de- 
 scribe the Plot here. (For the best 
 and fullest history of it, see Jar- 
 dine's' Gunpowder Plot,’ 1857). After 
 the discovery, Winter and others of 
 the conspirators rode hastily to Ashby 
 St. Ledgers, where it was expected 
 that Catesby would follow. Catesby 
 himself, with Rookwood, Percy, and 
 John and Christopher Wright, rode 
 with such speed that, leaving London 
 at 11 in the morning, they reached 
 Ashby at 6 on the evening of the 
 same day. (The distance is nearly 
 80 m.) “Rookwood rode 30 m. on 
 one horse in 2 hours.” “ Percy and 
 John Wright cast off their cloaks 
 into the hedge to ride the more 
 speedily.” Winter and his com- 
 panions were about to sit down to 
 supper with Lady Catesby, when 
 Catesby and his fellows arrived with 
 the news of the apprehension of 
 
 Gr 
 
122 
 
 Route 4 . — Ashby St. Ledgers. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Faux. After a short conference, the 
 whole party, taking what arms they 
 could, rode off to Duuchurch in War- 
 wickshire, and thence to Holbeach, a 
 house in Staffordshire belonging to 
 Stephen Lyttelton, where they re- 
 solved to make a stand. Here they 
 defended themselves against the she- 
 riff and his 'posse for two days, when 
 the house was accidentally fired, and 
 Oatesby and Percy rushing out, the 
 first was shot dead on the spot, the 
 other only survived a day or two. 
 Catesby was attainted ; and his estates 
 escheating to the Crown, were granted 
 to Sir William Irwing. Ashby St. 
 Ledgers was bought of Irwing in 1612 
 by Bryan Janson, in whose family it 
 remained until 1703, when it was 
 sold to Joseph Ashley, whose repre- 
 sentative, Captain Senhouse, is the 
 present (1876) possessor. 
 
 The manor-house and ch. of Ashby 
 St. Ledgers deserve the attention of 
 the artist. They stand on high, but 
 somewhat level ground, and are much 
 surrounded by trees. The court in 
 front of the house, with the church- 
 tower and gate-house on one side, the 
 weather-tinted roofs and chimneys, 
 and the fine trees beyond, is very 
 picturesque. The front of the house 
 is low, with three gables, and belongs 
 to the Elizabethan building. There 
 are portions which are probably older; 
 and the garden-front, with tower and 
 balustrade, is modern. The whole 
 group, with its oriels, gables, and 
 ivy-covered parapets, is striking, and 
 full of antique character. The bil- 
 liard-room, a sort of wainscoted hall, 
 may have been the chamber in which 
 Lady Catesby was about to sup when 
 her son arrived. Over the gate-house 
 is the so-called plot-room , in which, 
 according to the local tradition, Catesby 
 and his fellow-conspirators occasion- 
 ally met to arrange the details of 
 their plot. It is a room of timber and 
 plaster, with a staircase which is cer- 
 tainly later than the days of the 
 Catesbys. A more ancient building 
 
 adjoins it; and the outbuildings in 
 the court are (some of them) ancient. 
 
 The Ch., dedicated to St. Leode- 
 garius (St. Leger or Ledger), bp. of 
 Autun, is interesting in itself, as well 
 as for its Catesby memorials. The 
 lofty arcade, N. and S. (there is no 
 clerestory), is Perp. The original 
 Perp. roofs remain. The wide chan- 
 cel-arch and the chancel are also 
 Perp. ; and there are four uniform 
 Perp. windows on either side of the 
 nave. The rood-screen with canopied 
 top is in good condition ; and a round 
 carrying the staircase projects into 
 the angle of the S. aisle. (Compare 
 Floore , ante.) The tower seems 
 earlier than the rest of the ch., since 
 the nave-aisles are built up against 
 it. In the glass of one of the win- 
 dows were formerly the figures of 
 John de Catesby and his wife. He 
 died in 1437, and was the grand- 
 father of Sir William Catesby, the 
 follower of Richard III. It is pro- 
 bable that this John de Catesby was 
 the rebuilder of the ch., since it is of 
 uniform character, and belongs to the 
 first half of the 15th centy. There 
 are some fragments of stained glass, 
 among which occurs the lion passant 
 sable, crowned or, of Catesby. In 
 the chancel are the following monu- 
 ments: — a marble slab, on which 
 were the brasses of Sir William 
 Catesby (died 1470), “ Unus trenehea- 
 torum regis H. sesti ” — two wives 
 and six children. The brasses were 
 remaining in Bridges’ time, but have 
 since been torn away. This was the 
 father of the Sir William taken at 
 Bosworth. Within the altar-rails is 
 the fine brass, well preserved, of this 
 second Sir William — beheaded after 
 Bosworth — and his wife. They are 
 in heraldic dresses, under rich cano- 
 pies. (The arms on his tabard are 
 Catesby quartering Montfort, Braun- 
 diston, and Cranford, and on her 
 mantle Zouch and Cantilupe quar- 
 terly.) This is one of the “ marble- 
 stones” which Sir William’s son, 
 George Catesby, directs to be laid 
 
Northants. Route 5. — Northampton to Stratford-on-Avon. 
 
 here (see ante). On the N. wall 
 is the monument of Bryan Jan- 
 son and wife, “ sometime citizen and 
 draper of London/’ and the purchaser 
 of the manor in 1612. There are 
 other Janson monuments, and several 
 for Ashleys — one of which, with 
 figures of Justice and Conjugal Affec- 
 tion, is by J. Bacon. In the North 
 Aisle , at the E. end, is the brass of 
 Sir Richard Catesby (died 1552), in 
 armour and tabard); and here are 
 several memorials of the Arnolds of 
 Ashby Lodge ; including one very 
 elaborate monument (modern Gothic) 
 with canopy, for George H. Arnold, 
 died 1814. At the E. end of the 
 S. aisle are three small brasses : — 
 Thomas Stokes, died 1416, and wife ; 
 William Smyght, rector of Oxhulfe 
 and Eldtoft, died 1510 ; and a Catesby, 
 in tabard, circ. 1500. 
 
 Ashby Lodge (W. J. Angerstein, 
 Esq.) is about 1 m. N.W. of the vil- 
 lage, near the Warwickshire border. 
 From the ridge of high ground near 
 the house very fine views are com- 
 manded over the central plain of 
 England. The walks in Braunston 
 Cleves, which lead toward this sum- 
 mit, are very pleasant. There is a 
 good collection of pictures at Ashby 
 Lodge, and an excellent topographical 
 library. The house was built by 
 George Arnold, Esq., in 1722; and 
 among the pictures are portraits of 
 himself and of his daughter, painted 
 by Hogarth , when on a visit here. 
 
 The village of Braunston stands 
 picturesquely on high ground. The 
 ch. was entirely rebuilt in 1849 (R. 
 C. Hussey, architect). It is of Dec. 
 character. In it is an effigy (removed 
 from the old building) in grey marble, 
 cross-legged, and perhaps that of a 
 de Ros, about 1270. The family of De 
 Ros or Roos held the manor from the 
 reign of John to 1508, when it passed 
 to female heiresses. 
 
 The ch. of Barby , about 1 m. N. 
 
 123 
 
 of the house of Ashby Lodge, is of 
 little interest. It is very late Perp.J 
 
 Proceeding from Crick Stat., the 
 rly. passes through a long tunnel, 
 which pierces the high ground on 
 the border of the county. It is If m. 
 long, and is ventilated by 2 large 
 shafts, each 60 ft. in diaiiieter; one 
 120 ft. deep, the other 90 ft. In the 
 line of the tunnel was an extensive 
 quicksand, which was not pierced 
 without difficulty and danger. The 
 cost of piercing was 300,000Z. The 
 engineer was Stephenson. The ch. of 
 Kilsby lies to the 1. on emerging from 
 the tunnel. It is of no great inte- 
 rest, and was restored in 1869. 
 
 The rly. almost immediately crosses 
 the border of Northamptonshire, and 
 soon reaches 
 
 Bugby Stat. (See Handbook for 
 Warwickshire .) 
 
 ROUTE 5. 
 
 NORTHAMPTON BY TOWCESTER TO 
 STRATFORD-ON-AVON. (EDGEHILL.) 
 
 East and West Junction Bailway . 
 
 For the line from Northampton to 
 Blisworth see Rte. 1. At Blisworth 
 the E. and W. Junction Rly., opened 
 in 1874, begins. There is nothing 
 which calls for special notice before 
 reaching 
 
 Towcester Stat. (Here is a junction 
 with the rly. from Blisworth to Ban- 
 bury (see Rte. 6). 
 
 G 2 
 
124 
 
 Route 5. — Towcester. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Towcester {Inns: Pomfret Arms; 
 Talbot. Pop. of parish in 1871, 
 2677) lies on the line of the Watling 
 Street, and on the rt. bank of the 
 little river Towe, which rising, like 
 the other Northamptonshire rivers, 
 from the high ground on the eastern 
 border, after passing Towcester, forms 
 for a short distance the boundary of 
 the county, until it falls into the 
 Ouse near Stony Stratford. Tow- 
 cester was the site of the Roman 
 station of Lactodorum. After the 
 Saxon conquest it became a town of 
 importance from its position, and Ed- 
 ward the Elder, in 921, during the 
 struggle with the Danes, ordered the 
 “ burg ” to be built there ( getimbran ; 
 it does not perhaps imply that the 
 town was before entirely without de- 
 fence). The Danes from Northamp- 
 ton and Leicester fought (in the 
 same year) against this “burg” for 
 a whole day ; “ but the folk who 
 were within defended it until help 
 came to them, and the enemy left 
 the burg.” In the same autumn 
 King Edward, with a force of West 
 Saxons, went to Passenham, “ and 
 sat there while they surrounded the 
 burg at Tofeceastre (Towcester) with 
 a stone wall.” (‘Sax. Chron. , ad 
 ann .) Of this “ stone wall ” — (which 
 marks an advance in fortification be- 
 yond the earthen dyke, but which 
 can hardly have been so strong or so 
 well w r r ought as the “ wall of squared 
 stone ” with which Athelstane sur- 
 rounded Exeter) — there are no traces : 
 but it probably followed the line of a 
 dyke and fosse, which may still be 
 traced, and which formed an irregu- 
 lar, angular enclosure of some extent. 
 (A plan is given in ‘ Baker/ vol. ii.) 
 The mound, which is an especial 
 feature of Saxon strong places, and 
 which is found at other “ burgs ” 
 “ set in order ” by Edward the Elder 
 — Huntingdon, Bedford, Tempsford — 
 also remains here. It is circular, about 
 24 ft. high, with a diameter of 100 
 ft., and rises immediately above the 
 river Towe, a little N. of the ch. 
 
 It is known as Burg Hill, and since 
 Roman coins and pottery have been 
 found in great quantity on and about 
 it, the mound was no doubt in exist- 
 ence in the days of Lactodorum, 
 though it was certainly turned to 
 account by the Saxons, and must be 
 regarded as the chief feature of the 
 “ ceastre,” or stronghold, which they 
 named from the adjoining river. The 
 hill is planted with fir-trees, and a 
 trench which formerly surrounded it 
 has been filled up. 
 
 There was much skirmishing in 
 and about Towcester during the 
 Civil War ; and at that time the old 
 defences seem once more to have 
 played their part. In October, 1643, 
 Prince Rupert, with a part of the 
 Royalist army, was quartered at Tow- 
 cester, whilst the Parliamentarians 
 were at Newport Pagnell. Constant 
 fights took place, and on one occa- 
 sion Towcester was surprised in the 
 night, the sentinels and 30 men killed, 
 and 2 colours and many prisoners 
 carried off to Newport. Rupert then 
 determined to fortify the place for 
 a winter garrison, and called in 
 pioneers and labourers for the pur- 
 pose. He “made Towcester very 
 strong, and brought the water round 
 about the town.” This was the only 
 royal garrison in Northamptonshire, 
 and it was abandoned in the fol- 
 lowing January, when it became ne- 
 cessary to concentrate the royal 
 forces at Oxford, where Charles had 
 established his court. The works 
 constructed by Rupert were then 
 “ slighted.” Both parties subse- 
 quently passed through, and from 
 time to time occupied Towcester. The 
 main street of the town is, in fact, the 
 Watling Street, and Towcester was 
 thus an important halting-place on 
 the great road from London to Ches- 
 ter. It was famous for its inns, one 
 of which, now called the Talbot, but 
 then the Tabard, was sold in 1440 to 
 Archdeacon Sponne, who gave it to 
 the town. In this house the arms of 
 Sponne, with his name beneath, re- 
 
Northants. Route 5 . — Towcester — Easton Neston Park. 125 
 
 main in one of the windows. The 
 Dean of St. Patrick’s used to halt at 
 the Talbot on his way to Ireland, 
 and a chair of carved oak preserved 
 there is still known as Dean Swift’s 
 chair. Besides these inns, there are 
 one or two picturesque old houses in 
 the town, the best of which, in the 
 market-place, is early Tudor. The 
 Ch. is of some interest. The nave- 
 arcade is ’E. Eng., with a Perp. cle- 
 restory, and Perp. aisles. The chan- 
 cel is Dec., and retains the roof 
 erected by Sir Robert Banastre in 
 1640. The modern nave roof is by 
 Bernasconi. At the W. end of the 
 nave is a gallery “ erected by Henry 
 Newby, citizen and haberdasher, born 
 in the town .... for the glory of 
 God and a fayre ornament for this 
 parish church, 1627.” It is a good 
 example. The panelled front has 
 slightly sunk carving, and the whole 
 rests on massive oaken posts. In the 
 chancel is a small mural monument 
 for Hierome Farmer (died 1602), who 
 “ attained to the honour of a great- 
 grand-unckle and at the end of the 
 S. aisle is the monument with effigy 
 of William Sponne, Archdeacon of 
 Norfolk from 1422 to 1447, and 
 rector of Towcester. He wears a 
 long, black gown, having sleeves 
 edged with fur, and a collar lined 
 with fur. On his head is a close, 
 black cap. An inner dress reaches 
 to his feet, and nearly covers them. 
 Underneath, and seen through the 
 open arcade of the altar-tomb, is a 
 cadaver. Archdeacon Sponne gave 
 the Talbot inn to the town “ with 
 lands belonging to it for the payment 
 of the fifteens for the parish of Tow- 
 cester, if any such tax be given by 
 parliament.” If not, the rents were 
 to go for paving the town or for other 
 uses. The tower is massive Perp. 
 and lofty. Edw. IY. granted to the 
 parishioners, for building this tower 
 and the nave aisles, stone from a 
 quarry in Whittlebury Fores.t. The 
 stained glass in this ch. was destroyed 
 by one Robert Stethberry, who, ac- 
 
 cording to a tract of 1642, became 
 mad and died in consequence. His 
 wife was “ exceedingly tormented on 
 a sudden in her limbs,” and died also ; 
 and his sister, who “ tore the book 
 of Common Prayer away from her 
 Bible, with which it was bound up,” 
 suffered greatly in the “ hands which 
 had done that ill deed.” 
 
 The entrance of Easton Neston 
 Park (T. G. Fermor Hesketh, Esq.) 
 is at the eastern end of the town, 
 from which the house is distant about 
 a mile. (The exterior of the house 
 and the ch. are the objects of interest). 
 Easton Neston (Estanestone and, 
 Aldestanestone in Domesday) first 
 rises into interest as the property 
 of Sir Richard Empson, the minister 
 of Henry VII. Empson, like his 
 fellow Dudley (“ bold men and care- 
 less of fame,” they are called by 
 Lord Bacon, “ that took toll of their 
 master’s grist ”), was of low degree, 
 the son of a sieve-maker at Towcester, 
 where he was born and educated. 
 His father was no doubt a man of 
 some local consequence. The son 
 became a lawyer, and seems to have 
 been introduced to the King by Sir 
 Reginald Bray, who had large estates 
 in Northamptonshire. Richard Emp- 
 son, after his attainder, was found to 
 be possessed of 10 manors in North- 
 ants, besides the manor and hundred 
 of Towcester, all of which he had 
 acquired during his time of favour 
 with the King. On the death of 
 Henry VII., Dudley was tried in 
 London, and Empson was sent down 
 to Northampton for trial. Both were 
 attainted, and both remained in prison 
 for a year afterwards. Both were 
 beheaded on Tower Hill, August 17, 
 1510. Empson 's estates were granted 
 to Sir William Compton ; but in 1513 
 Thomas Empson, son of Sir Richard, 
 obtained an act of restitution. In 
 1527 he sold them (apparently) to 
 William Fermor of Somerton in 
 Oxfordshire. The real purchaser, 
 however, was Richard, brother of this 
 
126 
 
 Route 5 . — Easton Neston House and Church . Sect. I. 
 
 William Fermor, wliose descendant, 
 Sir William Fermor, was made a 
 baronet by Charles I. in 1641. His 
 son in 1692 became Baron Lempster 
 (Leominster), and in 1721 his son, 
 the second Lord Lempster, became 
 Earl of Pomfret (Pontefract). The 
 titles became extinct on the death of 
 the fifth earl in 1867. The estates 
 passed to the sister of the last earl, 
 Lady A. M. Fermor Hesketh ; and 
 her son, the present possessor, suc- 
 ceeded her in 1870. 
 
 The first house of Easton Neston 
 stood in the park, between Easton ch. 
 and the river Towe. In it (June 
 27, 1603) James I. met Anne of Den- 
 mark and Prince Henry on their first 
 coming into England. The King- 
 had preceded them. The Queen and 
 Prince came to Easton from Althorp 
 (see Rte. 7), and were received by 
 Sir George Fermor. “ There wear 
 an infinit companie of lords and 
 ladies,” says Lady Anne Clifford, 
 “and other people, that the countrie 
 could scarse lodge them.” The King 
 then knighted, among others, Sir 
 Hatton Fermor, the son of his host. 
 In October, 1604, the King and 
 Queen met here Prince Charles. Sir 
 Robert Cary, his governor, says, “I 
 attended his grace all his journey up ; 
 and at Sir George Fermor’s in North- 
 amptonshire were found the King 
 and Queen, who were very glad to see 
 their young son.” The present house 
 was built by the first Lord Lempster. 
 It is on much higher ground, and 
 consisted of a centre and wings. The 
 wings were first built, and were by 
 Wren. The centre, by Nicholas 
 Hawksmoor, was finished in 1702, 
 20 years after the wings had been 
 built. These have been removed. 
 Hawksmoor's portion of the house 
 remains, and is a fine composition, 
 though it suffers of course from the 
 absence of the wings, with reference 
 to which it was designed. (The com- 
 plete elevation may be seen in Camp- 
 bell's ‘ Vitruvius.’ The western front 
 extended 320 ft.) The parapet was 
 
 originally decorated with antique 
 statues — a portion of the collection 
 bought by the first Lord Lempster 
 from the Earl of Arundel. These 
 have been replaced by urns ; and the 
 whole collection, including the statues 
 on the balustrade, was given (1755) 
 by the widow of Thomas, first Earl 
 of Pomfret, to the University of Ox- 
 ford, where it was lodged with the 
 other portion of the Arundel marbles 
 given to the University by Lord 
 Henry Howard, afterwards Duke of 
 Norfolk, These “ Pomfret marbles,” 
 as they are called, consist of 130 
 Greek, Roman, and Egyptian statues, 
 busts, and basso-relievos. The house 
 contains some fine rooms. The stair- 
 case is painted, by Sir James Thorn - 
 hill , with subjects from the life of 
 Cyrus ; and there are still some 
 pictures of interest, though many of 
 those described by Bridges have dis- 
 appeared. The most noticeable are, 
 Battle of Valenciennes, by P. de 
 Loutherbourg , dated 1794, and full 
 of portraits ; two very interesting 
 Canalettos , Old Kensington Palace 
 and London Bridge ; and some 
 Fermor portraits, including the first 
 Lord Lempster (builder of the house), 
 by Kneller. In one room are hunt- 
 ing scenes by Abraham Hondius , set 
 in panels bordered by carved fruit 
 and flowers. 
 
 The Church is close to the house 
 (where the key must be asked for) . 
 It is Perp., and was rebuilt temp. 
 Henry IV. by the executors of John 
 Bacon, citizen and woolstapler of 
 London. It is chiefly noticeable for 
 the monuments of Fermors, which 
 are fine examples of their several 
 periods. In the chancel is an altar- 
 tomb with brasses for “ Rychard 
 Fermer, merchant of the staple of 
 Calays ” (d. 1552), and Anne his wife. 
 This was the Fermor who bought 
 Easton from the son of Sir Richard 
 Empson. He died here ; and “ it is 
 remarkable,” says Collins (Peerage, 
 iv.), “that, having some foreknow- 
 
Northants. Boute 5. — Easton Neston — Whittlebury Forest. 127 
 
 ledge of his own death, he invited on 
 that very day many of his friends and 
 neighbours, and taking leave of them, 
 retired to his devotions, and was 
 found dead in that posture.” On the 
 brass he is in armour. Opposite is 
 the monument of Sir George Fermor, 
 (d. 1612), and his wife Mary Curson 
 (d. 1628). This is unusual, and very 
 fine for its period. The figures are in 
 alabaster ; Sir George on a rolled up 
 mat, with armour seamed and studded 
 with gold. His head rests on a tilting 
 helmet, with cock’s head and neck as 
 crest, painted red. His wife lies above 
 him on a raised slab ; she has a large 
 widow’s hood or curtch on her head, 
 and a quilled ruff. At the back 
 of the tomb a number of pennons 
 bearing shields are arranged like an 
 outspread peacock’s tail, rich in gold 
 and colour. The inscriptions have 
 been obliterated. On the S. wall is 
 the monument of Sir Hatton Fermor, 
 (d. 1640), and his second wife Anne 
 Cockayne. This is of black and 
 white marble, and the figures are 
 erect. He is bareheaded, in armour, 
 but with a large cravat and enormous 
 loose boots. His wife, richly dressed, 
 rests her head on an hour-glass. 
 This monument was erected by her 
 “ in the 22nd year of her widowhood, 
 anno 1662.” The seated figure of 
 George, 3rd Earl of Pomfret (d. 1830), 
 is by Baity , R.A. Opposite is a 
 monument by Chantrey, R.A., for 
 George, 2nd earl (d. 1785), “a full- 
 sized group, emblematic of filial affec- 
 tion.” There is also a monument by 
 Chantrey for Peter Denys (d. 1816), 
 and Lady Charlotte Denys (d. 1835) ; 
 three female figures hover above an 
 urn. In both aisles are modern 
 heraldic windows. 
 
 The views from the ch. and from 
 the house are wide and pleasant, ex- 
 tending across the northern portion 
 of Whittlebury Forest. The spires 
 of Grafton Regis and of Alderton are 
 seen in the distance. Near the house 
 is a fragment of an entrance archway, 
 said to have been removed from the 
 
 earlier mansion. The park is large 
 and well wooded. 
 
 From Towcester expeditions may 
 be made into the old forest district of 
 Whittlebury , and to one or two places 
 of interest on and adjoining the road 
 between Towcester and Weedon. 
 
 (a) Whittlebury Forest was the 
 most southerly of a range of royal 
 forests which at one time extended 
 almost continuously from one end of 
 Northamptonshire to the other. Be- 
 yond it, to the north, were Salcey 
 Forest and Yardley Chase ; and then 
 came the great forest of Rockingham, 
 which stretched almost from the town 
 of Northampton to Stamford. A 
 perambulation of the year 1300 shows 
 that Whittlebury Forest formed an 
 irregular triangle, enclosing about 32 
 square miles, or 20,480 acres. The 
 boundaries passed from Stony Strat- 
 ford to Lillingstone in Buckingham- 
 shire ; thence by Silverstone across 
 to the Watling Street north of Paulers- 
 pury, then by Potterspury and Cos- 
 grove again to Stony Stratford. These 
 boundaries were gradually narrowed ; 
 in spite of an attempt made in the 
 reign of Charles I. to widen them 
 considerably. In 1791 it was found 
 that the actual forest contained 
 only 5424 acres. The Duke of Graf- 
 ton, by grant from Queen Anne in 
 1712, was Lord Warden or Master 
 Forester. In 1854, Whittlebury 
 Forest was sold by the Crown; the 
 chief purchaser being the Earl of 
 Southampton. It was then en- 
 closed, and a park of 700 acres was 
 formed by Lord Southampton, and 
 well stocked with deer, the old 
 denizens of the wood. Lord South- 
 ampton’s estates here passed by pur- 
 chase in 1873 to Robert Loder, Esq. 
 The various “ walks ” of the forest — 
 Hasleborough, Sholebrook, Wakefield, 
 Hanger, and Shrob— are still recog- 
 nised, though much has been en- 
 closed; and there is still some very 
 pleasant woodland scenery in the 
 
128 Boute 5 . — Northampton to Stratford-on-Avon . Sect. I. 
 
 district. On the Buckinghamshire 
 side are some fine oaks. The country 
 is comparatively level, with a deep, 
 clayey soil. Ancient foresters of 
 Whittlebury, Broneman, Osbert, 
 Alan, and others, are recorded in 
 early charters (the first temp. Henry 
 II.). There was a royal hunting- 
 lodge at Silverton, within the forest, 
 and many orders occur for the har- 
 bouring of the King’s hounds and 
 hawks before and after his visits to 
 Whittlebury. Stag-hunting has long 
 been unknown here; but the Duke 
 of Grafton’s foxhounds still wake the 
 forest echoes, and his huntsmen, like 
 ancient foresters, are clad in “ Kendal 
 green ” instead of the usual scarlet. 
 
 From Towcester the tourist may 
 drive or walk to the village of 
 Whittlebury, 3 m. The ch. is Dec., 
 and contains a monument by Chan- 
 trey for Mrs. Bradshaw — a female 
 figure rising from a tomb. Adjoin- 
 ing the Green is Whittlebury Lodge 
 (B. Loder, Esq.), an Elizabethan 
 house, built by Lord Southampton 
 in 1868. Cross-roads, with pleasant 
 forest views, lead from Whittlebury 
 to Paulerspury (2 m.), so called from 
 the Paveleys, its ancient lords. The 
 Ch. contains E. Eng. (N. chantry) 
 portions, but the nave and aisles were 
 rebuilt in 1844. The chancel was 
 restored, 1855. The circular font is 
 late Norm. The E. window is by 
 Clayton and Bell; all the rest are 
 filled with modern stained glass. In 
 the chancel are 2 wooden effigies 
 of a knight and lady, Sir Laurence 
 de Paveley and his wife. Here 
 is also a large altar-tomb, with 
 effigies of Sir Arthur Throckmorton 
 (d. 1626) and his wife ; they are 
 placed in line, head joining head. 
 Sir Arthur is in armour, but wears a 
 coif. There are also monuments for 
 Bathursts and Sheddens, families 
 connected with Paulerspury. (Sir 
 Benjamin Bathurst (d. 1704), whose 
 memorial is here, was father of the 
 1st Earl Bathhurst, created 1772.) 
 
 Two of the bells are said to have been 
 brought from Suffield Priory — a small 
 house of Benedictines, of which no 
 remains exist, which stood on the 
 border of Buckinghamshire, near 
 Lillingstone. Dr. William Carey, 
 “the patriarch of Indian missions, 
 and the first Oriental Professor of 
 Languages in India,” was born here 
 in 1761 — the son of a cottager. (See 
 a Memoir in Baker, vol. ii.) He 
 died at Calcutta in 1834, having done 
 much “ in opening the store of Indian 
 literature to the knowledge of Eu- 
 rope.” 
 
 In a hedgerow between Paulers- 
 pury and Grafton Begis is a much- 
 shattered and venerable tree, gene- 
 rally known as the Queen’s Oak. 
 “Four hundred years ago it was a 
 stalwart tree, and the bleak winds of 
 January, 1464, had scarcely stripped 
 it of its brown leaves, when Edw. IV ., 
 out a-hunting in Whittlebury forest, 
 and perhaps moodily turning over in 
 his mind his marriage with the Prin- 
 cess of Savoy which Warwick was 
 then abroad negotiating, was sud- 
 denly stopped under its branches by 
 a fair stranger, who asked him where 
 she might find the King. It was 
 Elizabeth, daughter of Bichard Wood- 
 ville, Earl Bivers, who was on her 
 way from her father’s house at Graf- 
 ton to entreat the King for the reversal 
 of the attainder against her late hus- 
 band, Sir John Grey, when the King 
 declared himself to be the person she 
 sought ; she instantly fell on her 
 knees, to be raised as quickly by the 
 too gallant monarch, who failed not 
 to see the fair stranger home. There 
 the fascination of the beautiful widow, 
 and the dexterous management of her 
 ambitious mother, Dowager Duchess 
 of Bedford, which an act of parliament 
 afterwards solemnly pronounced ‘ the 
 sorcery and witchcraft of Elizabeth 
 and her mother’ led to her secret 
 marriage with the King in a private 
 chamber at Grafton in the following 
 May.” — James’s ‘ Northamptonshire.’ 
 Grafton Begis is about 2 m. from 
 
Northants. 
 
 129 
 
 Route 5 . — Grafton Regis . 
 
 Paulerspury, on the rt. of the road 
 from Buckingham to Northampton. 
 The village stands on high ground, 
 and the manor-house, to which much 
 historical interest, was attached, 
 must have been conspicuous and im- 
 portant, especially from the North- 
 ampton side. It was ruined during 
 the Civil War, and although part 
 of it has been made habitable, it 
 has lost all its ancient character. 
 Grafton became the property of 
 Thomas Widville early in the reign 
 of Hen. YI. The family of Widville 
 can be traced in Grafton and its 
 neighbourood as early as the 12th 
 centy., and after they became lords 
 of Grafton they rose rapidly in im- 
 portance. Sir Bichard Widville, 
 of Grafton, married Jacquetta de 
 Luxemburgh, dowager Duchess of 
 Bedford, and became Baron and 
 (1466) Earl Kivers. He and his son, 
 Sir John Widville, were beheaded at 
 Northampton, Aug. 12, 1469 (after the 
 northern insurrection and the fight 
 on Danesmoor, see the present Kte., 
 post). His eldest daughter, Elizabeth, 
 married Sir John Grey of Groby, 
 killed at St. Alban’s, 1460 ; and she 
 afterwards became, in the manner 
 told above, Queen of Edw. IY. There 
 were, in succession, 3 Earls Bivers — 
 of whom the 2nd, beheaded at Ponte- 
 fract (1483;, was the patron of Cax- 
 ton. The last Earl bequeathed Graf- 
 ton to his nephew, Thomas Grey, 
 Marquis of Dorset. His son, the 2nd 
 Marquis, sold it, in 1527, to Hen. 
 VIII., who erected the manor into 
 an honour, to which were attached 
 many inferior lordships. It con- 
 tinued in the crown until Charles II., 
 in 1665, made it part of Queen Ca- 
 therine’s jointure; and afterwards 
 granted it to Henry Bennett, Earl of 
 Arlington, for his life, and then to the 
 Earl of Euston and his heirs. This 
 Lord Euston was the 2nd son of King 
 Charles by the famous Duchess of 
 Cleveland. He was afterwards created 
 Duke of Grafton , and his descendant, 
 the present (6th) duke is still the 
 
 lord of the greater part of the ancient 
 honour. 
 
 Ed. IV. went from Stony Strat- 
 ford to his private marriage at 
 Grafton, May 1, 1464, and returned 
 to Stratford on the same day. 
 The marriage was not publicly de- 
 clared until the following Michael- 
 mas. The sons of Edw. and Eliz. 
 were the two princes murdered in 
 the Tower. The eldest daughter, 
 Elizabeth, became the wife of Hen. 
 VII. It was in the old house of 
 Grafton that Hen. VIII., in 1529, 
 received Card. Campeggio for the 
 last time. The pope had “ sent an 
 evocation ” of the Queen’s cause to 
 himself at Borne, and Campeggio ac- 
 cordingly prepared to leave England. 
 Wolsey accompanied Campeggio to 
 Grafton, and a full account of the 
 interview is given by Cavendish 
 (‘ Life of Wolsey ’). Wolsey was at 
 this time supposed to be in deep 
 disgrace with his master, and the 
 courtiers carefully watched the King's 
 countenance and bearing. But 
 Henry “ gently entertained the car- 
 dinal,” for which “ Mistress Anne 
 Boleyn was much offended with the 
 King, as far as she durst.” There 
 was no room for Wolsey at Grafton, 
 and Cavendish (his gentleman usher) 
 “provided a lodging for him at a 
 house of Master Empson’s called 
 Easton ” (the old house of Easton 
 Neston), “ whither my lord came by 
 torchlight.” Hen. VIII. was more 
 than once at Grafton for the sake 
 of hunting. On one occasion he 
 “ touched two poor women ” for the 
 evil here ; the Mayor of Northamp- 
 ton sent a present of pears to the 
 “ King’s grace and there was paid 
 4< to a power woman that gave the 
 King’s grace peres and nuttes in the 
 forest, iiijs. viiid” Elizabeth was 
 here in 1568, on one of her pro- 
 gresses. The Boyalists seized and 
 held the house in 1643 ; and on 
 the Christmas Eve of that year it was 
 stormed and taken by “ Sergeant- 
 Major General” Skippon and some 
 g 3 
 
130 
 
 Route 5 . — Northampton to Stratford-on-Avon. Sect. I. 
 
 3000 men. The soldiers “ found 
 great and rich plunder, which they 
 had for their pains,” and, “ for pre- 
 vention of future inconveniences, the 
 house was fired ” on Christmas Day. 
 Many prisoners were taken, among 
 whom was the Royalist commander, 
 Sir John Digby. The house was 
 left, and long remained, in complete 
 ruin. 
 
 The Ch. of Grafton Regis is of no 
 very great interest, though it has 
 early portions, and a Trans -Norm, 
 font. In the N. aisle are some Wid- 
 ville monuments ; two uninscribed 
 and without effigies ; the third an 
 altar-tomb, with brass for Sir John 
 Widville (living in 1392), grandfather 
 of the first Lord Rivers. The armour 
 is an excellent example. Round the 
 verge of the slab is an inscription, of 
 which the first two lines run — “ Pro- 
 piciante Deo qui Campanile peregit 
 John Wydevil sub eo jam lapis iste 
 tegit,” — showing that the tower was 
 built by this Sir John. In the N.* 
 Chapel is a monument by Flaxman , 
 for a Countess of Euston, died 1808. 
 It is a tablet flanked by small 
 figures of Faith and Hope. 
 
 From Grafton Regis the road may 
 be followed to Potterspury f (2 m.), a 
 village so named from a manufacture 
 of coarse ware, such as flower-pots 
 and vases, which was carried on here 
 at an early period, but has long been 
 discontinued. The clay was brought 
 here from Cosgrave. The Ch. of 
 Potterspury has undergone much re- 
 storation, partly in 1848, and partly 
 in 1860. It contains no monuments 
 of interest. 1 m. from the village is 
 Wakefield Lodge , the seat of the 
 Duke of Grafton. The house, of no 
 great size, was built by the second 
 Duke, from a design by Kent. The 
 forest, lawns, and grounds, are plea- 
 sant and picturesque ; and there is a 
 lake of 35 acres. There are some 
 family portraits at Wakefield. 
 
 [There is little to attract the visitor 
 
 in that extreme angle of the county- 
 which runs into Buckinghamshire. 
 The ch. of Furtho , 1J m. from Pot- 
 terspury, was rebuilt in 1620 by the 
 family of the same name, and was 
 restored in 1870. In the chancel is a 
 monument, with effigies of a man and 
 2 wives, supposed to be that of An- 
 thony Furtho, who died in the 1st 
 year of Elizabeth. Cosgrave Ch., 
 1J m. from Furtho, is of no great 
 interest. Cosgrave Hall belongs to 
 J. C. Mansel, Esq. ; and in the chan- 
 cel of the ch. is a memorial- window 
 for Henry Mansel, late Dean of St. 
 Paul’s. Passenham , on the Ouse, a 
 little S. of the ford (Stony Stratford), 
 where the Watling Street crosses the 
 river, is interesting from the mention 
 of it which occurs in the Saxon 
 Chron. In 921, while Edward the 
 Elder was building the “ stone wall ” 
 at Towcester (see ante), he “ fared 
 with his West Saxons to Passan- 
 hamme, and sat there while they 
 wrought at the wall.” Bridges de- 
 scribes an “ almost square entrench- 
 ment” near the ford here, which has 
 quite disappeared. In the ch. are 
 some monuments of Banastres, one of 
 whom (died 1649) “built and beau- 
 tified the fayre chancell.” The ch. 
 and vicarage seem to occupy the site 
 of a considerable ancient cemetery. 
 Skeletons in great numbers, and much 
 pottery and glass (Roman and Brito- 
 Roman) have been found here. The 
 ch. of Wicken was rebuilt in 1758. 
 Wicken Park , belonging to Sir Charles 
 Mordaunt, is occupied by Lord Pen- 
 rhyn.] 
 
 (6.) The distance from Towcester to 
 Weedon is 8 m. L. of the main road, 
 and about 1J m. from Towcester, is 
 Green's Norton , where the ch. was 
 formerly rich in monuments of the 
 family of Green, of which little more 
 than fragments now exist. They 
 were displaced and destroyed at dif- 
 ferent periods, the greatest mischief 
 having been done in 1826, when the 
 ch. was “beautified;” a word which 
 
131 
 
 Nokthants. Route 5 . — Green’s Norton — Cold Higham . 
 
 seems to carry with it much the same 
 signification as the more modern 
 term “restoration.” The manor of 
 Green’s Norton was bought in 1355 
 by Sir Henry Green, Lord Chief 
 Justice of England, whose ancestors 
 were lords of Boughton in North- 
 amptonshire (see Rte. 8), and were 
 named from the “ green ” of the vil- 
 lage there, according to Halstead 
 {Genealogies). However this may be, 
 Sir Henry was the father of a Thomas 
 Green, the first of six Sir Thomas 
 Greens of Greens-Norton, who suc- 
 ceeded each other without interruption. 
 The last Sir Thomas died ini 506, leav- 
 ing two daughters co-heiresses. The 
 younger, Matilda, married Sir Thomas 
 Parr. Their daughter Catherine be- 
 came Queen of Henry VIII., and her 
 brother William was created Earl of 
 Essex by King Henry, and Marquis 
 of Northampton, in the first year of 
 Edward VI. Henry VIII., antici- 
 pating the euphuism of his daughter’s 
 court, called Sir William Parr his 
 “ Integrity.” Edward VI. spoke of 
 him as “ mine honest uncle.” On his 
 death without issue, in 1570, his 
 estates passed to the Crown, and 
 Green’s Norton has since that time 
 been in various hands. Tradition 
 asserts that Queen Catherine Parr 
 was born at Green’s Norton. The 
 Parrs, however, were of Kendal, in 
 Westmoreland; and Fuller, in his 
 ‘Worthies,’ “resigns her over” to 
 that country, “ to prevent cavilk” 
 (There is a very interesting portrait 
 of this Queen at Glendon Hall, near 
 Kettering (see Rte. 9.) 
 
 The manor-house of the Greens 
 stood N.W. of the ch. ; but has 
 utterly disappeared. The Church , 
 chiefly E. Eng., has been much “ re- 
 stored,” though not of late years. The 
 spire was rebuilt in 1807. The Green 
 monuments are described and rough- 
 ly figured in Halstead’s very rare 
 volume of ‘ Genealogies ’ (see Dray- 
 ton , Rte. 1), and are reproduced in 
 Baker’s History (vol. ii.). In the 
 
 centre of the chancel stood the altar- 
 tomb, with effigies, of Sir Thomas 
 Green (d, 1391) and wife. This tomb 
 was broken up in 1826. The lower 
 part of the knight’s figure was de- 
 stroyed. The upper part is placed 
 upright within an arch in the N. 
 aisle, and in front, under the same 
 arch, is laid the figure of the lady. 
 She has the horned head-dress, and 
 wears a collar of SS. On the N. side 
 of the chancel was the altar-tomb, 
 with brasses, of Sir Thomas Green 
 (d. 1417) and wife. The tomb is 
 gone. The brass of the lady (Mary 
 Talbot) is laid on the floor, under 
 the eastern arch. At the east end 
 of the north aisle was the tomb, 
 with brasses , of another Sir Thomas 
 (died 1457) and wife. These have 
 utterly vanished. Again, in the 
 chancel, side by side with that first 
 mentioned, was the altar-tomb of Sir 
 Thomas Green, who died in 1462, 
 and his wife. The tomb has been 
 destroyed. The covering slab with 
 its fine brasses is placed on the floor. 
 The relics of these interesting monu- 
 ments deserve the attention of the 
 antiquary, who will probably find his 
 affection for restorers and beautifiers 
 by no means increased by a visit to 
 Green’s Norton. The ch. contains 
 two mural monuments for John Hick- 
 linge (d. 1558), and William his son 
 (d. 1606). 
 
 Proceeding toward Weedon, 1. of 
 the road (3J m. from Towcester) is 
 Cold Higham , on high ground, com- 
 manding very wide views N. and S. 
 The church tower (late E. Eng., the 
 lower part may be earlier) has a 
 gabled or “ pack-saddle ” roof, of the 
 same character as those at Maidford 
 and at Thorpe Mandeville. In the 
 S. chapel is an alabaster altar-tomb, 
 bearing the wooden effigy (which 
 does not belong to it) of a cross-legged 
 knight, probably of Sir John de 
 Pateshull, died 1350. [2 m. W. of 
 
 Cold Higham is Lichborough , with a 
 Perp. and Dec. ch., containing both 
 
132 
 
 Boute 5 . — Northampton to Stratford-on-Avon . Sect. I. 
 
 a nmral monument and an altar-tomb 
 with effigy for Sir John Nedham (d. 
 1618). The monumental tablet de- 
 clares that, 
 
 “ This worthy knight, subdued by death, 
 
 Is happy made by loss of breath.” 
 
 In front of the tomb below is an in- 
 scription recording that Sir John was 
 Gentleman Pensioner to Queen Eliza- 
 beth and to James I., “and was by 
 them both well esteemed, and like- 
 wise by other noble persons of the 
 best ranke and qualitie. ,, On the 
 staircase of Lichborough House (A. 
 W. Grant, Esq.) is a full-length por- 
 trait of Sir John Nedham, in armour 
 and white hose, with plumed hat and 
 staff of office. Among the rectors 
 of Lichborough were William Peters, 
 R. A., once well known as an artist, in 
 which capacity he gave to the world 
 such performances as “the Resurrec- 
 tion of a pious family,” — and James 
 Douglas, author of the 4 Nsenia 
 Britannica.’ completed in 1793. In 
 the parish of Farthing stone, N.W. of 
 Lichborough, and at the west end of 
 Farthingstone Wood, is Castle Dykes, 
 a large and irregular entrenchment, 
 occupying about 13 acres. It is 
 surrounded by a single ditch, and an 
 outer bank or vallum. A deep ditch 
 intersects it, and produces two nearly 
 equal divisions. In the centre of the 
 northern division is a circular mound 
 or keep ; and the whole arrangement 
 seems to suggest the defences of a 
 “ strength ” or fortified house earlier 
 than the Conquest. A tower of stone 
 was built on the mound at a later 
 period, and fragments of masonry 
 have been found there. The view 
 from this site is very extensive. A 
 short distance S.W. of it is a field 
 called Castle Yard , with traces of a 
 square entrenchment. When Pen- 
 nant visited it about 1780 there was a 
 tradition that a “town” had formerly 
 stood there.] 
 
 The church of Pattishall , rt. of the 
 road, 4 m. from Towcester, has Norm. 
 
 and E. Eng. portions. The tower 
 was rebuilt in 1663. The ch. itself 
 was restored in 1871. There is 
 nothing about it which calls for much 
 notice. For Stowe-nine-Churehes, 1. 
 of the road (6 m.), and one of the 
 most interesting churches in the 
 county, see Rte. 4. 
 
 Leaving Towcester, the next sta- 
 tion is 
 
 Blahesley , where the country is 
 pleasant and much wooded. The 
 church, late Perp., has been restored. 
 It contains the small brass of Mat- 
 thew Swetenham, d. 1416, bow- 
 bearer of Henry IV. The figure is 
 in plain plate-armour. In this parish 
 was the small Northamptonshire pro- 
 perty, consisting only of a house and 
 a few “ yardlands,” of Dryden, the 
 poet. As we approach 
 
 Morton Pinkeney Stat ., the church 
 of that village is seen 1.; and rt., 
 among trees, the square tower of 
 Canons Ashby , one of the most inte- 
 resting places in the county. The 
 church and house of Canons Ashby 
 are hardly 1 m. from the station. 
 Some churches worth attention may 
 be visited in a drive across the coun- 
 try from Morton Pinkeney to Ban- 
 bury. 
 
 (a) In the village of Morton Pin- 
 keney observe a fine house built 
 of yellow and red sandstone, ar- 
 ranged in stripes, the date 1616; 
 besides a somewhat similar house 
 with a very steep roof, date about 
 1700. The villages in this part 
 of the country abound in Tudor 
 houses, well built and picturesque, 
 the type of which, or portions of it, 
 was followed to a much later period. 
 This “ Morton” was named from the 
 Pinkeney family, to whom the manor 
 belonged, and who had the head of 
 their great “ honour” at Weedon 
 Pinkeney, or Weedon Lois, one of 
 the adjoining parishes (see post). 
 
Northants. Route 5 . — Morton Pinkeney — Canons Ashby. 133 
 
 The manor came at last to Copes 
 and Candlers, and through the latter 
 family to the present owner, Baroness 
 Sempill. The manor-house , adjoin- 
 ing the church, has Tudor and per- 
 haps earlier portions ; but in 1860 it 
 was nearly rebuilt, with very pic- 
 turesque, if somewhat anomalous, re- 
 sult. It contains a few portraits of 
 interest. The Church well deserves 
 a visit. The nave arcade is Transi- 
 tion ; the chancel E. E., but rebuilt 
 in 1845 precisely on the original 
 plan. It was from this chancel that 
 the design was taken for the older 
 part of Littlemore Chapel, near Ox- 
 ford, built by John Henry Newman, 
 and that of the chancel of Holdenby 
 Church; and the graceful propor- 
 tions and arrangement commend the 
 choice. The western tower is also 
 E. E. and curious. It is low, and 
 set back in three stages, with angle 
 shafts. 
 
 Morton is a good specimen of a 
 Northamptonshire village, generally 
 marked in this part of the country by 
 great irregularity, high gables, Tudor 
 windows, and striped stonework (the 
 iron stone and oolite are used in 
 alternate courses). There is almost 
 always a green, with a fine tree in the 
 midst, usually a great elm. 
 
 [About 1 m. E. of Morton Pinkeney 
 is Plumjpton, where the church, re- 
 built in 1822, is without interest. 
 The parish adjoins that of Weedon 
 Lois , or Weedon Pinkeney. St. Loy’s 
 (Eligius) Well here is called by Mor- 
 ton, the “chief (well) of all the 
 western part of the county. Even 
 blind and leprous people, as tradition 
 tells us, it infallibly cured.” The 
 site is still pointed out, but the spring 
 is neglected. After the conquest this 
 place became the head of the honour 
 or barony of the Pinkeneys, whose 
 ancestor, as we learn from Domesday, 
 Was “Ghilo, brother of Ansculf.” 
 Ansculf himself appears in the same 
 survey as “Ansculf de Pinchengi,” 
 or “ Pinkeni and this surname was 
 retained by his brother’s descendants. 
 
 They continued here until 1301, 
 when Henry de Pinkeney sold his 
 barony to the King Edw. I. It has 
 since passed through many hands. 
 There was a small Benedictine Pri- 
 ory here, founded by Ghilo de Pin- 
 keney, and at first attached as a cell 
 to the Abbey of St. Lucien, near 
 Beauvais. In 1392 it was transferred 
 to the English house of Bittlesden. 
 There are no remains of the Priory ; 
 but it stood in what is now known as 
 Church Close ; and a mound on the 
 village-green marks the site of a so- 
 called castle of the Pinkeneys. The 
 church, partly E. E., contains a 
 Norm. font. One of its vicars, Wil- 
 liam Losse, successfully defended 
 himself in the belfry, and on the 
 roofs, against a body of Parliament- 
 arian troopers, sent to carry him to 
 Northampton. At Weston Hall (Miss 
 Hutchinson), there are a few family 
 portraits.] 
 
 ( b ) Canons Ashby (Sir Hen. Dry- 
 den, Bart.), lies to the N. of Morton 
 Station. 
 
 Before visiting the Church and 
 house , which are here the objects of 
 interest, it will be well to rehearse 
 briefly the history of both. 
 
 A Priory of Augustinian Canons 
 was founded at Ashby (the “bye” 
 or village of the ash-trees), probably 
 before the time of Stephen de Ley 
 (Thurleigh in Bedfordshire), who is, 
 however, the earliest known bene- 
 factor. He was lord of the manor 
 temp. Hen. II. The house prospered 
 moderately, and at the Dissolution, 
 the annual value was rather more 
 than 147 1. None of the Priors seem 
 to have been personages of great im- 
 portance. (The Chartulary of Ca- 
 nons Ashby remains in the posses- 
 sion of R. Orlebar, Esq., of Hinwick, 
 in Bedfordshire.) The site and de- 
 mesne lands were granted in 1537 
 to Sir Francis Bryan, and in the 
 following year they were alienated 
 to John Cope, afterwards knighted. 
 His descendant, Thomas Cope, in 
 1665, sold Ashby to Gerard Usher, 
 
134 
 
 Route 5 . — Canons Asliby : Church . 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 who in the same year transferred 
 the place to Sir Robert Dryden ; in 
 which family it has since remained. 
 The Drydens were already possessed 
 of some property in the parish, where 
 they first appear (coming from Cum- 
 berland) toward the middle of the 
 16th cent. John Dryden, or Drey- 
 den, as the name was then written, 
 married the daughter of Sir John 
 Cope, of Canons Ashby. It is gene- 
 rally asserted that their son, Erasmus 
 Dryden, was named after the great 
 scholar of Rotterdam, who had been 
 a friend of his father ; but the name 
 appears at an earlier date as that 
 of his uncle, eldest son of Sir John 
 Cope. This Erasmus Dryden was 
 created a baronet in 1619. His third 
 son, also an Erasmus, was of Tich- 
 marsh (see Rte. 2), and was father 
 of “Glorious John.” After a suc- 
 cession of 7 baronets, Sir John Dry- 
 den died sine prole in 1770, devising 
 his estates to his niece Elizabeth, 
 who married John Turner (son of 
 Sir Edward Turner, of Ambroseden, 
 in Oxfordshire), who thereupon took 
 the name and arms of Dryden, and 
 in 1795 was created a baronet. The 
 present Sir Henry Dryden is the 4tn 
 baronet of this succession. 
 
 The Church of the Priory, now 
 little more than a private chapel 
 (there is no endowment of any sort), 
 stands on the road from the station 
 to the house, and may first be visited. 
 It is only a portion of the building, 
 and consists of nave (part of which 
 is used as a chancel), north aisle, 
 and a tower attached to the N. side 
 of the aisle, 27 ft. square (outside), 
 and 93 ft. high, including pinnacles. 
 The western doorway and the arcade 
 on each side of it may date from 
 about 1250. The W. window is an 
 insertion, circ. 1450. The tower was 
 built about 1350, and there was a 
 porch of very peculiar construction 
 in the angle between the tower and 
 aisle. The 2 arches with their piers, 
 which divide nave and aisle are 
 E. E., and of about the same date 
 
 as the western front. The exterior 
 arcade on either side of the door 
 is excellent; as fine as any simi- 
 lar work of its period which re- 
 mains. The arcade along the base 
 of the tower is Dec., and later. It 
 has shafts without caps. The tower 
 itself is very massive, and is of good 
 ashlar, inside and out. One of the 
 pinnacles is original ; the others were 
 built in the 17th cent. In the tower 
 chamber is a large assemblage of 
 tiles and fragments discovered from 
 time to time on the site of the mo- 
 nastic buildings. There are brasses 
 for (apparently) the first John Dry- 
 den; and Sir Erasmus Dryden, the 
 first baronet. The brass of John 
 Dryden is small and without inscrip- 
 tion, but seems to be that referred to 
 in his will, where he describes him- 
 self as “ being assured that he is the 
 elect of God ;” and adds, “ Although 
 I doe not allow of pomp in burialls, 
 yet for some reasonable considera- 
 tions, I will that the stone that I 
 have already prepared shall be laid 
 upon my grave, and my arms and 
 my wyve’s graven in brasse there- 
 upon.” There are also monuments 
 for Sir Robert Dryden, d. 1708 ; for 
 Sir John Turner Dryden, d. 1818, 
 and (by L. Rossi ) for his father, the 
 first baronet of that creation, d. 
 1797. 
 
 The domestic buildings of the Pri- 
 ory were on the S. side of the church, 
 and were converted into a dwelling- 
 house by Sir John Cope, d. 1558. 
 Before 1600, however, this was di- 
 vided into 2 farm-houses, and so con- 
 tinued after the purchase by the 
 Drydens, till the whole was taken 
 down in 1710. A small portion of 
 the gateway into the close may be 
 found 86 ft. N. by W. of the church, 
 and the former E. end of the church 
 is marked by a break of the ground 
 in the ch.-yard, showing that the 
 total length was about 217 ft. In 
 a field E. of the gateway is a well , 
 known as the “ Nor-well.” The 
 grant to the monks for its enclosure 
 
Northants. 
 
 Route 5 . — Canons Ashby : House . 
 
 135 
 
 is dated in 1253; and the small 
 stone structure over the spring may 
 very well he of that date. A large 
 reservoir adjoins the well, and pipes 
 from it were carried under the pave- 
 ment of the church to the monastic 
 buildings. 
 
 The present house of Canons Ash- 
 by is, in part, that which was built 
 by the first John Dry den, who mar- 
 ried the daughter of Sir John Cope. 
 It is, however, a pile of various dates 
 — the tower being earlier than the 
 time of this John Dry den, whilst the 
 hall was built by him, and very great 
 changes in the house were made 
 before 1708-1710, when the old mo- 
 nastic buildings (Sir John Cope’s 
 house) were taken down, and the 
 stone work used here. The house 
 encloses a quadrangle, with wings 
 projecting 12 ft. beyond the N.W. 
 face. The tower, 50 ft. high, is on 
 the S.W. side of the quadrangle. 
 The front entrance is on the N. W. 
 face, from the “ green court,” into 
 the hall. The offices are at the 
 N.E. end of the hall. The quad- 
 rangle, small as it is (52 ft. by 37 
 ft.), is very picturesque. The hall- 
 doors bear the arms of John Dry den, 
 and must be of the same age as the 
 hall, built between his marriage in 
 1551 and his death in 1584. This 
 is a striking apartment, happily 
 “ unrestored,” hung with old armour 
 and weapons belonging to the time 
 of the civil wars, and probably once 
 used by the retainers of Sir John 
 Dryden. There is here also a bust 
 of the poet, which is said to have 
 served as a model for that placed in 
 Westminster Abbey. The principal 
 apartments are on the garden front of 
 the house. These are : — the dining - 
 room, said to have been entirely 
 floored and wainscoted with the 
 timber of a single oak, which grew 
 on the estate. In it are portraits of Sir 
 William Cornwallis, temp. Elizabeth ; 
 Elizabeth Cornwallis, wife of Edward 
 Allen, in the character of Diana; 
 Elizabeth Allen, wife of Edward 
 
 Dryden ; and very fine crayon draw- 
 ings of Mrs. Creed (the “cousin” to 
 whom the poet writes (see Tichmarsh , 
 Ete. 2), and of the poet himself. The 
 library opposite contains among its 
 treasures a first folio of 4 Shakespeare,’ 
 a curious volume of theology which 
 may have belonged to the Priory, 
 and several letters to and from Sir 
 John Dryden (1640-58), besides one 
 from the poet. Over the library is 
 the drawing-room , with a very re- 
 markable ceiling, coved and en- 
 riched, and a chimney-piece of similar 
 character. This was the work of Sir 
 John Dryden (1632-1658); so that 
 the tradition which asserts that the 
 room was thus fitted for the reception 
 of Anne of Denmark, who died in 
 1619, falls to the ground. The apart- 
 ment opposite the drawing-room (30 
 ft. by 20 ft.) is hung with tapestry. 
 Many other rooms contain tapestry, 
 mostly of the 17th cent. From the 
 top of the tower there is a very wide 
 and striking view, extending over 
 all this richly wooded portion of the 
 country, to the borders of Oxford 
 and Warwickshire on one side, and 
 on the other to the forest heights of 
 Whittlebury and Wakefield. 
 
 The evidently unbroken antiquity 
 of the house, and the absence of all 
 attempt at modern restoration, give 
 Canons Ashby an interest which is 
 altogether wanting to many a more 
 famous mansion; and this feeling is 
 not a little aided by the quiet beauty 
 of the gardens, to which a doorway 
 opens from the tower. Very fine old 
 cedars spread their arms over flights 
 of moss-grown steps, flanked by low 
 walls of grey stone ; and terrace 
 after terrace, with lines of clipped 
 yews, descends to gates, opening to a 
 broad, grassy avenue. Beyond, dis- 
 tant views of the country are caught 
 between groups of trees. On one 
 side is the church ; on the other the 
 deer park, the venison from which is 
 of much reputation. The tone and 
 colouring of the whole scene are, 
 under certain lights, so beautiful, that 
 
136 
 
 Boute 5 . — Northampton to Stratford-on-Avon . Sect. I. 
 
 it is only to be wondered that so few 
 artists seem to have discovered the 
 charm of Canons Ashby. The gate- 
 way pillars were made, and the 
 gardens were much altered, about 
 1710. They are still much the same, 
 however, as when Samuel Richard- 
 son, the novelist, paced them during 
 his frequent visits here. It is said 
 that much of ‘Sir Charles Grandi- 
 son 9 was written at such times ; and 
 it will be remembered that the home 
 of Harriet Byron — where resided the 
 “ venerable circle 99 to whom she ad- 
 dressed her voluminous letters — is 
 named in the novel “Ashby Canons.” 
 Another friend of the Drydens, ac- 
 cording to the gossiping Aubrey 
 (‘ Lives of Eminent Men ’) was the 
 poet Spenser. There was a room in 
 the house, he tells us, called “ Mr. 
 Spenser’s chamber,” — and his wife 
 (daughter of William Wilkes of Hod- 
 nell) was a kinswoman of Frances, 
 wife of Sir Erasmus Dryden. It 
 does not appear that John Dryden 
 the poet was much at Canons Ashby. 
 There is no reference to any visit 
 here in his own letters ; but we may 
 believe, if we choose, that “ as the 
 poet certainly courted his cousin 
 Honor Dryden, the eldest daughter 
 of the then baronet .... the old 
 clipped yews and formal terrace and 
 walled courtyard, which yet remain, 
 have looked upon the light-hearted 
 pair as they strolled along in that 
 cousinly flirtation, so presumptuous 
 in the eyes of Sir John, who saw 
 nothing but a poor cadet in the future 
 author of ‘ St. Cecilia’s Day.’ ” — 
 James. It should here be added that 
 the present kitchen garden, called 
 the “Vineyard Garden” was pro- 
 bably the garden of the Priory ; and 
 that the small close adjoining it, 
 having on two sides the “Canon’s 
 walk,” was perhaps the monastic 
 orchard. 
 
 In April, 1644, a party of Parlia- 
 mentarian infantry sent from North- 
 ampton to collect money in this 
 neighbourhood took up their quarters , 
 
 in Sir John Dryden’s house. A 
 larger body of Royalists approaching 
 from Banbury, the others secured 
 themselves in the church of Canons 
 Ashby, the door of which was forced 
 by a petard. The Parliamentarians 
 then took refuge in the tower, which 
 they defended for two hours, but at 
 last surrendered, and were all carried 
 prisoners to Banbury. 
 
 [At Adston, 2 m. N., is a small 
 chapel of the 14th cent, with a very 
 good arcade ; the chancel was added 
 circ. 1845. The hamlet is pictur- 
 esque and contains an old manor- 
 house with clipped yews in front. 
 The Harbys were long lords of the 
 manor. The tower of Maidford ch. 
 (1 m. N. E.) is gabled, and is one of 
 the best examples in the district of 
 this peculiar roofing. There are 
 others at Thorpe Mandeville (see 
 post ) and elsewhere. Maidford tower 
 may be of the 14th cent. The ch. 
 has E. E. portions.] 
 
 (c). The expedition from Morton 
 Pinkeney to Banbury will take us 
 through a broken, up-and-down coun- 
 try, with occasional fine views. The 
 road at first lies along a portion 
 of Banbury Lane, a very ancient 
 trackway (which the Romans scarcely 
 adopted) running across this part of 
 England in a direction from S,W. to 
 N.E. It follows high and low ground 
 indifferently. At about 2 m. from 
 Morton we reach Culworth , where 
 the church has been “ restored,” but 
 is of no very great interest. There 
 are many modern windows of stained 
 glass; and the pulpit is of carved 
 work, temp. Jas. I. In the village is 
 the base of a cross raised on many 
 steps ; the dilapidated manor-house, 
 long the residence of the Danvers 
 family, and showing portions of 
 Tudor chimneys and gables ; and a 
 curious sign, carved in stone, over an 
 old grocer’s shop, having, within a 
 squared border, a sugar-loaf and a 
 “ whisk ” or small broom. The whole 
 
Northants. Rte.5. — Thorpe Mandeville — Middleton Cheney. 137 
 
 is locally described as a “spickett 
 and fossett. ,, (For a notice of the 
 so-called “ Cul worth gang ” of high- 
 waymen, see Sulgrave , Rte. 6). 
 
 Berry Mount Hill , in a close N. of 
 the ch.-yd., marks, according to a 
 tradition of the place, the site of a 
 castle held by a family which was 
 named from the manor (de Culworth) 
 and continued here until the reign of 
 Edw. I. ; but a careful examination 
 may perhaps show that these mounds, 
 of which there are several in the 
 neighbourhood, were those of forti- 
 fied houses older than the Con- 
 quest. 
 
 From Culworth a drive of two 
 miles brings us to Thorpe Mandeville , 
 finely situated on high and broken 
 ground, commanding wide views over 
 a richly wooded country. The place 
 is named from the Maude villes, its 
 early possessors (they sold it temp. 
 Edw. I.). The church is the sole ob- 
 ject of interest here, and that only 
 on account of its tower, which has a 
 gabled or “ pack-saddle ” roof. The 
 gable rises flush with the W. wall. 
 On the other sides it is set inward, 
 and there is a passage round. The 
 whole may be Dec. In the ch.-yd. 
 is a grand old yew-tree; and in a 
 field W. of the church some mounds 
 mark the site of the old manor-house 
 belonging to the Kirtons. This 
 house was strengthened and garri- 
 soned by Cromwell, who was first 
 cousin of Mrs. Kirton ; and the 
 mounds were thrown up by him. A 
 pleasant, hilly district, affording oc- 
 casional wide views towards Ban- 
 bury, extends to Middleton Cheney 
 (3 m.), where is one of the best 
 churches in this part of North- 
 amptonshire, well deserving a visit. 
 Ralph de Chenduit (corrupted into 
 Cheney) was the son of Ralph, the 
 Norman lord of Middleton at the 
 time of the Domesday survey; and 
 his descendants remained here until 
 the accession of Edw. I. The church 
 
 is Dec. with a fine Perp. W. tower. 
 It was restored (1865) by Sir G . G. 
 Scott ; and the chancel has since 
 been decorated, and stained glass 
 inserted, by Morris and Marshall. 
 Tiie nave arcade, of 4 bays on either 
 side, is very good and graceful, 
 having stones of two colours — dark 
 blue marl, and the local whitish 
 oolite, in the arches. The sculptures 
 at the ends of the hood mouldings 
 deserve notice. Among them occurs 
 the wyvern crest of Thomas of Lan- 
 caster, the “ mighty Earl/’ beheaded 
 at Pontefract in 1322. Here, there- 
 fore, we have some clue to the date 
 of the church ; and as William of 
 Edyngdon (afterwards Bp. of Win- 
 chester) was rector of Middleton 
 between 1327 and 1345, we may 
 fairly suppose that some part of the 
 structure is due to him, who was 
 everywhere a great builder. The 
 general character is early Dec. ; but 
 the E. window, of which the tracery 
 is very light and graceful, is so pecu- 
 liar as to imply a designer of unusual 
 skill, such as Edyngdon. On the 
 S. side of the chancel arch is a great 
 buttress, rendered necessary by a 
 chapel added to the S. aisle in the 
 late Dec. period. This weakened 
 the main wall. The clerestory is 
 Perp. and the S. porch is a late Dec. 
 addition. It has a sharply pitched 
 stone roof, with an inner arch, the 
 space between which and the roof is 
 filled with flamboyant tracery. Re- 
 mark a curious niche, with square 
 opening, on the E. side. There is a 
 similar porch in the neighbouring 
 church of Chalcomb (see post). The 
 wooden doors may be Perp., as is 
 the fine tower. This has a largely 
 developed parapet, with 8 pinnacles 
 — a peculiar feature; 4 are at the 
 angles of the parapet, and 4 at the 
 base of the lofty spire which rises 
 from the tower. The west door is 
 much enriched. Angels are laid 
 into the hollow of the cornice ; and 
 in niches on either side are the 
 Blessed Virgin and the angel Ga- 
 
138 
 
 Route 5 . — Northampton to Stratford-on-Avon. Sect. I. 
 
 briel. On one of the hells (date 
 1639) is the inscription — 
 
 “Let Aaron’s bells continually be rung, 
 
 The word still preached, and an Hallelujah 
 sung.” 
 
 The modern glass and the enrich- 
 ments of the chancel are very good, 
 and deserve attention. 
 
 The Chenduits alienated Middle- 
 ton to the Bp. of Bochester, who long 
 possessed the manor, and who may 
 be supposed to have had some hand 
 in the building of so fine a ch. The 
 advowson now belongs to Brasenose 
 College, Oxford. 
 
 In the ch.-yd. is an elaborate 
 monument by Earp for members of 
 the Horton family, erected in 1869. 
 A fragment of a Tudor house adjoins; 
 and in the village is (or was) a house 
 on the timbers of which appears a 
 dog-tooth moulding — though its date 
 is uncertain. There was a fight in 
 the “ town field ” of Middleton, May 
 6, 1643, between the Earl of North- 
 ampton’s cavalry and a large body 
 of Parliamentarians, who were medi- 
 tating an attack on Banbury. The 
 latter were utterly defeated. 
 
 \_Chalcomb Church, restored 1856, 
 lies about 2 m. N.W. of Middleton. 
 It is late Dec. The porch is smaller 
 than that of Middleton, but of similar 
 character. The font is late, Norm, 
 circular, with intersecting arches as 
 decorations round it. Chalcomb Priory 
 (Mrs. Cornwallis) marks the site of 
 a small house of Augustinian Canons 
 founded in the reign of John. There 
 are in the offices some very slight 
 remains of old work.] 
 
 At about 3 m. from Middleton the 
 road crosses the Cherwell, and we 
 enter Banbury. (See Handbook for 
 Oxfordshire.) 
 
 [An excursion to Warkworth, King’s 
 Sutton, and Aynho may best be made 
 from Banbury. These places lie close 
 
 on the border of the county, which is 
 here divided from Oxfordshire by the 
 course of the Cherwell. 
 
 The Church of Warkworth , 1J m. 
 from Banbury, although much in- 
 jured by at least one restoration, well 
 deserves a visit, if only for the sake 
 of its monuments’. The upper story 
 of the tower and the wall of the N. 
 aisle were rebuilt in 1841 ; and, 
 among other atrocities then com- 
 mitted, all the brasses in the church 
 except two, were thrown away and 
 disregarded until the builder, greatly 
 to his credit, buried them for security 
 under a flagstone in the nave, where 
 they still remain. A second restora- 
 tion was completed in 1869. The 
 chancel was then rebuilt, a new vestry 
 and S. porch were added, and the 
 whole building was newly roofed. 
 The nave arcade (almost the only 
 ancient portion remaining) is E. 
 Eng. Some open seats of the 15th 
 cent, have also been preserved ; and 
 are curious from the Latin inscrip- 
 tions (from the Psalms and the Creed) 
 at the backs. The ancient lords of 
 Warkworth were Lyons, Chetwodes, 
 and Holmans. Of the monuments 
 which have happily escaped destruc- 
 tion the earliest belong to the Lyons, 
 and are a cross-legged effigy of a 
 knight in a hauberk of chain-mail, 
 temp. Ed. II. ; a lady, of the same 
 date, with veil and wimple ; and the 
 very fine altar-tomb of the last Sir 
 John Lyons, living 1346. The tomb 
 is unusually high and narrow, and 
 has the arms of Lyons and other 
 families along the sides. The effigy 
 affords an excellent example of the 
 military costume of the time of 
 Edw. HI. The manner in which 
 the moustache is made to curl over 
 the open helmet is a usual feature 
 of the period. Here are also brasses 
 (not buried) for John Chetwode (d. 
 1420) and for Amabilla, wife of Sir 
 John Chetwode and afterwards of Sir 
 Thomas Strange, d. 1430. She wears 
 the horned headdress, with a long, 
 open mantle. The buried brasses are 
 
Noethants. 
 
 Route 5 . — King's Sutton . 
 
 139 
 
 those of the husband of Amabilla, d. 
 1412, and called in the inscription 
 ‘Mons. John Ohetwode, Chivaler, qe. 
 morust en la veile de Seint, Eichard 
 Margery Chetwode, d. 1420; and 
 William Ludsthorp, d. 1454. 
 
 The manor-house of Warkworth, 
 ancient and stately, was pulled down 
 in 1810. We proceed by cross roads 
 to King's Sutton (about 3 m. Here 
 is a station on the G. W. Ely. between 
 Oxford and Banbury ; and here will 
 be a junction with the line in course 
 of construction (1877), running from 
 Banbury to Cheltenham). This was 
 the head of an enormous parish, 
 the earlier history of which it would 
 be well worth while to trace, since it 
 included within its range the town 
 of Buckingham with its hamlets on 
 the east, and Horley and Horn ton in 
 Oxfordshire on the west, thus giving 
 a “ stretch ” of between 20 and 30 m. 
 It was not until the 15th cent, that 
 either Buckingham or the Oxfordshire 
 chapelry was erected into a distinct 
 vicarage. Sutton was part of the 
 royal demesne from a period before 
 the Conquest to 1156. It is probable 
 therefore that the great extent of the 
 parish marks it as little cultivated, 
 and as having been, if not actual 
 “royal forest,” yet, in the main, 
 wooded hunting ground. In 1156 
 the king had granted it to Eichard 
 Camville; whose daughter Idonea 
 married William Longespe, son of 
 the first Longespe, Earl of Salisbury. 
 The manor of Sutton passed through 
 various hands until it was bought in 
 1735 by the then Attorney-General, 
 Sir John Willes, afterwards Lord 
 Chief Justice. In his family it re- 
 mains. There was also a prebendal 
 manor, granted by Henry I. to the 
 church of Lincoln ; and the prebend 
 thus formed was the richest of any in 
 the kingdom except that of Masham 
 in Yorkshire. This golden stall of 
 “Sutton, cum Buckingham, Horley, 
 and Horn ton,” was surrendered to the 
 crown temp. Edw. YI. Under these 
 circumstances we are not surprised 
 
 to find a fine church at Sutton. The 
 spire is a landmark throughout the 
 district. Much of the church is early 
 Perp., but the arcade is Norm., and 
 the sedilia — six stalls divided by cir- 
 cular columns with plain capitals — 
 on either side of the chancel have 
 E. Eng. shafts. (The semicircular 
 arches are conjectural restorations 
 by Scott). The tower and spire, 
 however, with the west front of the 
 church, are the finest portions. These 
 are early Perp. The tower has at 
 each angle a pinnacle with crocketed 
 canopy and finial 18 ft. high, from 
 which springs a flying buttress in- 
 tersected in its progress to the spire 
 by another pinnacle, similar in de- 
 sign to the outer one, but 7 ft. 
 higher. The effect is to give great 
 richness to the base of the spire, 
 which rises to a height of 100 ft. 
 above the tower, with crocketed 
 ribs, and a band of ornament more 
 than half-way up. Below the para- 
 pet of the tower, in the centre of 
 each side, is one of the Evange- 
 listic emblems. The whole church 
 was “repaired” in 1842. In 1866 
 the chancel was restored by Sir G. 
 G. Scott. Memorial windows for 
 members of the Willes family have 
 been inserted ; and an oaken screen 
 designed by Scott, separates the 
 nave from the chancel. The ancient 
 font is Norm, hexagonal, and of great 
 size. It is now in the S. porch, the 
 font in use being modern. The sole 
 monument worth notice is for mem- 
 bers of the Freke family, by Bacon, 
 jun. It represents the triumph of 
 the Saviour over death. (The life- 
 sized figure of the Saviour is very 
 fine, and contrasts remarkably with 
 the inferior work of the rest of the 
 design). Of this church the father 
 of William Lisle Bowles was for 
 some time vicar; and the poet was 
 born here in 1762. 
 
 The Manor-House (Mrs. Willes) is 
 a picturesque gabled mansion, on 
 the S. side of the ch.-yd. There is 
 a story that Charles I. was “ at some 
 
140 Route 5 . — Northampton to Stratford-on-Avon . Sect. I. 
 
 time 99 concealed- in it ; but this can 
 only be one of the floating civil war 
 traditions of which this part of the 
 country is full. The house contains 
 some interesting family portraits, in- 
 cluding one of Lord Chief Justice 
 Willes, by Jarvis. There are also 
 full-lengths of George II., Frederick 
 Prince of Wales, and Augusta, Prin- 
 cess of Wales — presents from the 
 Prince to the Chief Justice. 
 
 At an early period King’s Sutton 
 was rendered illustrious by the birth 
 of a saint. This was St. Rumwold, or 
 St. Rumbald, not to be confounded 
 with the Irish saint of the same 
 name, the patron of Mechlin. The 
 St. Rumbald of Sutton is the son 
 of the King of Northumbria, by a 
 daughter of Penda of Mercia. He 
 was born in 662 ; was baptized by 
 Bp. Widerinus (?), lived 3 days, died 
 at Sutton, and was buried there. 
 During those three days, however, 
 this least of the saints discoursed, in 
 Fuller’s words, “ of all the common 
 places of Popery,” having been gifted 
 with speech from his birth, at which 
 he cried aloud three times, “ I am a 
 Christian.” It is said, too, that he 
 had been moved to Brackley for one 
 day of his life, and that he preached 
 there. Thither his body was after- 
 wards translated by the mysterious 
 Widerinus, and thence it was re- j 
 moved to Buckingham, where it at- 
 tracted hosts of pilgrims. At King’s 
 Sutton, St. Rumbald had a well and 
 a chapel; the latter “defaced and 
 taken down” when Leland wrote. 
 His well was that afterwards known 
 as Astrop Well , a medicinal spring, 
 said to have been discovered about 
 1664, and at one time much fre- 
 quented by visitors, who had balls, , 
 cards, and “ ordinaries,” after the 
 fashion of other watering-places. 
 All this has passed away since the 
 beginning of the present century; 
 although the water, strongly impreg- 
 nated with iron, no doubt retains all 
 its former efficiency. The road which 
 passed the well was diverted about 
 
 1866, by consent of the parish, on 
 condition that a facsimile of the old 
 building should be placed by the 
 new road side, and that the water 
 should be conveyed thither in pipes. 
 This has been done, but with in- 
 different success. Astrop House (Sir 
 W. R. Brown, Bart.) stands in a 
 picturesque park, and was origin- 
 ally built by Chief Justice Willes. 
 It has been enlarged by its present 
 owner. 
 
 There are some tumuli in this 
 parish, known as the “ Lows ; ” and 
 in a field, called “ Black Lands 
 piece,” many rude cists have been 
 found, containing skeletons. Roman 
 coins have also been found, and in 
 such quantities that it is said they 
 were carried away in buckets. They 
 are known in the village as “ Black- 
 land pence.” 
 
 [2 m. N.E. of King’s Sutton is 
 Newbottle (botl = a house, A. S.). 
 The hill behind the church com- 
 mands a very wide view, in which 
 are included the three spires, lo- 
 cally celebrated as “Adderbury for 
 strength, Bloxham for length, and 
 King’s Sutton for beauty.” The two 
 former are in Oxfordshire. New- 
 bottle Church has Norm, portions, 
 but is chiefly of the 14th cent. ; the 
 tower of the 15th. The manor-house 
 is the residence of T. L. Cartwright, 
 Esq. On a hill adjoining the ham- 
 let of Charlton (1 m. beyond New- 
 bottle church), in this parish, is 
 Bainsborough Camp , an irregular 
 oval, enclosing about 6 acres. There 
 are 2 valla, with a deep wide fosse 
 between^; the entrances nearly oppo- 
 site, E. and W. Roman coins have 
 been found here ; and whatever the 
 origin of the work may have been, 
 it is tolerably certain that it was 
 held by the Romans. The wall 
 which surrounds the camp is modern. 
 The name may be identical with that 
 of Ravensburgh, the great earthwork 
 near Dunstable. See Handbook for 
 Bedfordshire , Rte. 4.] 
 
Northants. 
 
 141 
 
 Route 5 . — Aynho Park — By field . 
 
 A drive of 2J m. (or a short 
 rly. journey — there is a station at 
 Aynho) brings us to Aynho (Jiou - a 
 hill, A. S. ; the meaning of the first 
 part of the word is uncertain). Here 
 is a fine church tower (63 ft. in 
 height) of late Dec. curvilinear) cha- 
 racter. The composition of the W. 
 door and window over it well de- 
 serves notice. What would other- 
 wise be the central light of the win- 
 dow contains a stone niche, with 
 canopy. The buttresses are set an- 
 gularly, and in the face of each is a 
 canopied niche for a figure. The 
 church itself was rebuilt “ in the 
 Grecian style ” in 1723. It adjoins 
 Aynho Parh (W. C. Cartwright, Esq., 
 M.P.), a large mansion built on the 
 site of the manor-house, burnt down 
 by the Royalists ih 1645. It stands 
 pleasantly in a deer park ; and fine 
 views are commanded over part of 
 Oxfordshire, from which county the 
 park is divided by a small feeder of 
 the Cherwell. The house contains 
 some good pictures, among which are 
 five or six Murillos , including an 
 “Assumption of the Virgin,” and 
 “ Our Lord appearing in vision to 
 St. Antony of Padua ; ” a Vander- 
 velde , a Backhuysen , and two por- 
 traits assigned to Rubens. There 
 are several other portraits, among 
 them the first and second Lords 
 Fairfax, and the third, the Parlia- 
 mentary general. There are nume- 
 rous portraits of Cartwrights and 
 Crewes, Lord Chancellor Eldon, by 
 Lawrence , and Mrs. Desaguliers, 
 by Hogarth. This lady was the 
 daughter of John Blackwood, Esq. 
 (by whom the pictures were col- 
 lected), and grandmother of the 
 present owner. Bronzes and vases, 
 and a fine library are also among 
 the treasures of Aynho, which estate 
 Richard Cartwright bought of Sha- 
 kerley Marmion in 1615. (This was 
 the father of Shakerley Marmion, the 
 dramatist, born here in 1602. The 
 Portway, an ancient road traversing 
 Northamptonshire and Oxfordshire, 
 
 passes through the park of Aynho, 
 but has been partially levelled and 
 reduced to a walled-in pathway. A 
 skeleton, with the legs gathered up, 
 was found in a rude stone cist by the 
 workmen when levelling the Port- 
 way. There are chalybeate springs 
 here ; and the great oolite is here in- 
 tersected by a liassic outlyer, with 
 fuller’s earth and ironstone. [The 
 church of Croughton , 2 m. E. of 
 Aynho, contains Norm, and E. E. 
 portions.] 
 
 We return to the station at Mor- 
 ton Pinckney ; and proceed through 
 a country pleasantly wooded, but 
 without any striking features, to 
 
 Byfield Stat. The spire of the 
 church is seen rt., and round it ex- 
 tends a straggling but picturesque 
 village, with the principal farmhouses 
 of the parish gathered into it after 
 the usual fashion of the county ; the 
 whole scattered among groups of 
 trees. Byfield stands on a broken 
 plain, from which bills rise toward 
 Daventry on one side, and toward 
 Banbury on the other. The Church 
 (ded. to the Holy Cross) well de- 
 serves a visit. It dates throughout 
 between the years 1350 and 1400, 
 but has more of late Dec. character 
 than of Perp. The tower and spire 
 are the latest portions. The whole 
 expression, especially of the nave (in- 
 terior, is very dignified; the dark 
 colour of the local stone (the ironstone 
 of the lias) contributing much to the 
 effect. The clerestory lights are now 
 Perp., but they have replaced cir- 
 cular windows with quatrefoils (placed 
 unusually over the piers instead of 
 over the arches), of which traces re- 
 main. A fine lofty arch opens to 
 the tower. The chancel is much 
 developed, with long, narrow win- 
 dows, having peculiar tracery, and 
 nearly flat headings. At the W. 
 end of the S. side is a low window, 
 still called the Leper’s window. 
 
142 
 
 j Route 5 . — Northampton to Stratford-on-Avon . Sect. I. 
 
 square-headed. The E. window is 
 modern, designed by A. Hartshorne , 
 under whose care the whole church 
 was restored in 1871. There is some 
 very good woodwork ; and the bench 
 ends (not carved out of the solid, as in 
 Devonshire) are noticeable. There 
 are no monuments. The ground 
 slopes from the W. door, thus giving 
 additional apparent height to the 
 tower, which, with the spire, rises 
 to 140 ft. It is in five stages, di- 
 minishing toward the top, and has 
 multangular embattled turrets at the 
 angles, which would seem heavy but 
 for the height at which they are 
 placed. The W. doorway is richly 
 moulded, and adorned with the ball- 
 flower. There are also on this front 
 three niches, with elaborate cano- 
 pies. The S. porch, which projects 
 considerably, resembles the tower; 
 and the so-called Trafford aisle on 
 the same side serves as a transept. 
 This was apparently an addition. 
 Trafford is an insulated portion of 
 the parish, forming a distinct manor, 
 which has been in various hands. 
 
 [The village of Woodford , 2 m. 
 W., has a church worth notice, with 
 an E. E. arcade on the N. side, and 
 a Dec. S. There is some good wood- 
 work, like that at Byfield.] 
 
 From Byfield an expedition may 
 be made to Daventry (7 m.), visiting 
 Charwelton and Preston Capes by 
 the way ; and to Banbury (9 m.), 
 visiting Chipping Warden and Edg- 
 cott. Byfield itself stands (in part) 
 on the old turnpike-road, running 
 from Daventry to Banbury ; and this 
 border of Northamptonshire has a 
 quiet beauty of its own, which lias 
 already been noticed in Kte. 4. 
 The scenery has no grand or very 
 impressive features; but, especially 
 where the hills overlook Warwick- 
 shire and the great central plain of 
 England, there is an old-fashioned 
 home-like charm in the country, 
 which is full of attraction. 
 
 (a) In proceeding to Daventry, 
 about 2 m. from Byfield, the road 
 crosses the infant stream of the Cher- 
 well, that “ water-lilied ” riveret, as 
 Drayton calls it, which falls into the 
 Isis at Oxford, and is so pleasantly 
 remembered by all Oxford men. 
 The true “ Cher well ” — the “ well ” 
 or spring which is the main source 
 of the river — rises in the cellar of 
 Cherwell house, a farm or grange 
 about J m. left of the road. At the 
 corner of the farmyard it forms a 
 head, and a sufficient quantity of 
 water is occasionally gathered to 
 render necessary the ancient bridge 
 over which the old road passed, and 
 which remains by the side of the 
 new one. It has two sharply-pointed 
 arches, with an angular projection 
 or “ cutwater ” between ; and may 
 well be of the early date (about 
 1250) assigned to it. The famous 
 Crowland Bridge (see the present 
 Handbook, Northants , Rte. 2) may 
 be compared. The masonry of this 
 on the Cherwell is good and massive. 
 It is locally said to be the “ highest 
 bridge in England ; ” a “ hard say- 
 ing,” which may be connected with 
 a general belief that this part of 
 Northamptonshire is the ‘‘highest 
 ground ” in England. (See Naseby , 
 Rte. 8.) The village and Church 
 of Charwelton lie rt. of the road. 
 The Perp. church is interesting. 
 The nave arcade on the N. side has 
 continuous mouldings, without capi- 
 tals, running to the bases of the 
 piers. On the S. the arches are 
 lower, and have octagonal piers with 
 plain capitals. There are some good 
 tombs and brasses, chiefly of the 
 Andrew family, who for a long 
 period held lands in Charwelton, 
 under the abbot and convent of 
 Thorney. (1) The earliest of these 
 is the fine brass of Thomas Andrew, 
 “ Mercator,” and his wife, daughter 
 and heiress of Richard Clarell. This 
 Thomas Andrew died in 1496; but 
 the date on the brass is incomplete, 
 and it is probable that it was pre- 
 
143 
 
 North ants. Boute 5. — Charwelton — Preston Cajpes. 
 
 pared in his lifetime. He is in a 
 close merchant’s gown, bordered with 
 ermine, as is the lady’s robe. Above 
 the rich canopy are two angels kneel- 
 ing by the shield of Andrew. Be- 
 low are lines which partly run, “ En 
 Thome ossa Andrewe hec continet 
 fossa, He terra facta protinus in ter- 
 rain redacta, Civibus sanctorum me 
 jungat rex Angelorum.” Below 
 again are small figures of sons and 
 daughters. The whole brass is cu- 
 rious, and may have been the work 
 of some local engraver. (2) Thomas 
 Andrew, son of the former Thomas, 
 and wife. She died 1490, he circ. 
 1530. The brass is, however, of the 
 former date. He is described as 
 “ generosus,” and is in a suit of 
 tournament armour. There are cu- 
 rious lines, as on the brass of his 
 father, and the work must be by the 
 same engraver. (3) Thomas An- 
 drew, “ armiger,” son of the former, 
 d. 1541, and wife. He is in plate- 
 armour. This brass is much smaller 
 than the others. (4) In the N. 
 chapel is a fine altar-tomb, with 
 effigies of Sir Thomas Andrew 
 (d. 1563) and two wives. He is 
 in plate-armour, bare-headed, and 
 wears a collar of SS. On panels 
 at the sides of the tomb are arms 
 and quarterings of Andrew. (5) 
 On the western wall of the N. aisle 
 is a lofty mural monument, of Rei- 
 gate stone, for Thomas Andrew, 
 “Esq.,” and two wives. This was 
 erected in 1590. Thomas Andrew 
 himself died in 1594. There are 
 figures of husband, wives, and twelve 
 children, in various attitudes ; the 
 whole so well and freely designed, 
 and displaying a “naturalism” so 
 rare in English monumental sculp- 
 ture of the period, that it has been 
 suggested the work may be that of 
 some Italian artist. The progress 
 marked in the inscriptions on the 
 brasses — mercator, generosus, armi- 
 ger, miles — is noticeable, as indi- 
 cating the gradual rise of the family. 
 Close to the church is Bittlesden 
 
 manor-house (so called from the land 
 here having belonged to Bittlesden 
 Abbey, in Bucks), partly built by 
 the family of Adams, which was 
 here between 1630 and 1702. It 
 contains some curious wainscoting, 
 with grotesque figures, which seem 
 to be of Flemish workmanship. The 
 church stands nearly a mile from the 
 village of Lower Charwelton; and 
 John Rous, in his * Historia Regum, ’ 
 written temp. Hen. VII., laments 
 that persons travelling toward Lon- 
 don from Warwick no longer found 
 a harbour at Church Charwelton, 
 since the place had been depopu- 
 lated by enclosure of land. They 
 were obliged to pass through Lower 
 Charwelton. 
 
 [On the rt. from Charwelton, across 
 a tract of wooded country, is seen 
 the church of Preston Capes (re- 
 stored), on its hill. It is of some 
 interest ; the S. arcade dating from 
 about 1200, the N. from 1300; while 
 the rest of the building is Perp. 
 The tower seems to be an addition, 
 since it is joined to the segment of 
 an arch. The ground falls very 
 steeply to the W. ; and, after the 
 completion of the nave, it was per- 
 haps found that there was not room 
 for the tower without the destruction 
 of the half arch. Remark the stoup 
 in the porch. (One remains also at 
 Edgcott , see post.) The view from 
 
 the ch.-yd. is very beautiful, extend- 
 ing over much broken ground to the 
 park and woods of Fawsley (see 
 Rte. 4). The contrast between all 
 this side of the county, so richly 
 wooded (there are extensive woods, 
 and although the grass fields are 
 generally large, trees are always left 
 in the hedges for shelter), and so 
 various in outline, with the eastern 
 portion and the long valley of the 
 Nen, becomes very marked when the 
 traveller, fresh from the heights in 
 that direction, overlooks the scene 
 from such a “vantage ground” as 
 this at Preston. On a hill near the 
 
144 
 
 Route 5. — Northampton to Stratford-on-Avon. Sect. I. 
 
 church stood a castle said to have 
 been built by Hugh de Leycestre, 
 the recorded Domesday lord. He 
 also founded a priory here, which he 
 afterwards moved to Daventry (see 
 Rte. 4). Of the castle only the 
 keep mound remains ; and this may 
 very well be of earlier date than the 
 Conquest, and mark the site of an 
 English “ strong” house. The Ro- 
 man or Romanized Fortway running 
 between Benaventa (Daventry) and 
 iElia Castra(Alcesterin Oxfordshire), 
 passed through this parish, and some 
 traces are to be found near the hill 
 S. of the church.] 
 
 There are good views on the main 
 road between Charwelton and Da- 
 ventry, with the high ground 1. on 
 which the camp of Arbury is situated 
 (see Rte. 4), Fawsley on the rt., 
 and then the picturesque village of 
 Badby. These places, and others 
 near them, are described in Rte. 4. 
 The remarkable rounded hill which 
 appears as we approach Daventry is 
 the “ foxhylle ” of the A. S. charter 
 of Staverton, noticed in the same 
 route. 
 
 (b) Eydon (3 m.) may be visited 
 from Byfield (remark the fine view 
 toward Byfield from the ridge called 
 Eydon Moor). The village of Eydon 
 is pretty, with many old houses 
 among trees. The church has Trans.- 
 Norm. portions (as the pier at W. 
 end of N. arcade); and a Dec. arcade 
 on the S. side ; but the greater part 
 is modern, and due to a restoration 
 and enlargement in 1865. There is 
 a curious and much enriched Norm, 
 font, and in the vestry a very muti- 
 lated stone effigy of a lady, one of 
 the Wake family, temp. Edw. II. 
 Eydon Hall (Col. Cartwright) was 
 built by the Annesleys about 1780. 
 (The design, by Lewis, is engraved 
 in Campbells ‘Vitruvius Britanni- 
 cus ’). It contains some family 
 portraits, including an Opie. The 
 grounds are pleasantly wooded, and 
 the gardens, French in style, are in- 
 
 teresting. Views are obtained by 
 cutting through groups of trees, after 
 the fashion shown in some of Wat- 
 teau’s pictures. 
 
 0) Proceeding from Byfield to 
 Banbury, the road at once climbs 
 high ground, and commands very 
 wide views over parts of Oxfordshire 
 and Warwickshire, with the steep 
 descent of Edgehill conspicuous. 
 Nearer Byfield is seen one of the 
 large reservoirs formed for supplying 
 the. Birmingham and Oxford canal, 
 which winds through the lower 
 country. This Byfield reservoir is of 
 considerable extent, and has all the 
 appearance of a natural lake. Many 
 such reservoirs adjoin the canal 
 through this part of its course. 
 
 At about 2 m. from By field, a road 
 turns rt. to Aston-le- Walls, so named 
 from its position near a long line of 
 vallum or entrenchment which ex- 
 tended at least from this place to 
 Kirtlington, in Oxfordshire, a dis- 
 tance of 19 m., nearly in the line of 
 the Portway, but a mile or two from 
 it on the W. It is one of many 
 earthworks and entrenchments in this 
 neighbourhood, which call for full 
 examination. The Church at Aston 
 has a Trans.-Norm. tower and nave, 
 with a Dec. clerestory. The chancel 
 is Dec. The font, large and square, 
 is Norm. There is a canopied recess 
 of the 14th cent., with the effigy of a 
 priest. The manor-house was built 
 by Wm. Plowden, temp. Wm. III. 
 He was a Romanist, and was very 
 obnoxious to the “Whigs” of his 
 neighbourhood, one of whom, Col. 
 Montague, then living at Chipping- 
 Warden (see post ) caused Mr. Plow- 
 den’s 6 coach-horses to -be seized and 
 impounded at Banbury, under the 
 act recently passed against nonjurors. 
 He then quitted Aston in disgust, 
 and. although it remains in the pos- 
 session of the Plowdens, it has never 
 been inhabited by them since. There 
 is a R. C. chapel here, maintained 
 by the Plowdens. At Apeltree, a 
 
Northants. 'Route 5 .— Chipping Warden — Edgcott House. 145 
 
 hamlet in the parish, was born, 1710, 
 Alban Butler, author of the ‘Lives 
 of the Saints,’ first published in 1745 
 in 5 vols. 4to. The Butlers had at 
 one time considerable property in 
 this part of Northamptonshire. 
 
 By the side of the main road is what 
 is called a “ pack-horse stone,” with 
 the date 1659, and an inscription to tlie 
 effect that Thos. Wright, of Warden, 
 set it up. It is a “ leaping-on” stone. 
 Beyond it we reach (1 m.) Chipping 
 Warden , so named from a market 
 granted to the lords of the place by 
 Hen. III., and continuing in use 
 until at least the end of the following 
 cent. The steps and base of the 
 market cross remain in the village, 
 overshadowed by a large elm-tree. 
 Warden gives name to the hundred; 
 and was the head of a barony held 
 by service to the ward of Rockingham 
 Castle. It descended through Revn- 
 courts, Foliots, Ledets, Braybrooks, 
 and Latimers; and there was a 
 “Castle,” or fortified manor-house 
 here, of which some mounds and 
 foundations may be traced in what 
 is now the park of Edgcott. The 
 Church of Chipping Warden is inte- 
 resting. It is chiefly Dec. and Perp., 
 and its condition of neglect, although 
 not satisfactory, will please the anti- 
 quary better than a too-perfect “ re- 
 storation.” The Perp. arcade is fine 
 and lofty, with a clerestory of large 
 windows. The N. aisle is late Dec., 
 with a peculiar wheel-tracery in the 
 windows ; and there are some frag- 
 ments of old glass. The broad S. 
 aisle retains E. E. portions at the E. 
 and W. ends ; but the windows are 
 Dec. (curvilinear). In the chancel is 
 one E. E. window, the E. window 
 being late Dec. On the N. side is 
 what seems to be a stone credence (?), 
 a shelf with battlemented edge, sup- 
 ported by a head of Edw. III. as a 
 bracket. Below the E. window is 
 a reredos, formed as a long parallelo- 
 gram, with open roses in the hollow 
 moulding round it. The same bat- 
 tlemented moulding is carried along 
 
 [ Northants , <£c.] 
 
 close under the window. At the E. 
 end of the S. aisle are 3 sedilia, with 
 a piscina eastward. At the E. angle 
 of the N. aisle is a fine niche ; and a 
 curious hagioscope opens from the 
 end of the aisle into what is now the 
 vestry. There is a small mutilated 
 brass for Richard Makepiece, yeoman, 
 d. 1584. The tower is massive Perp., 
 with a good W. doorway, and the 
 window, in the stage above, has a 
 niche on either side. (Comp. Edg- 
 cott, post.) 
 
 E. of the church is the manor- 
 house, built by the Saltonstalls in 
 the 16th cent. By a marriage with 
 the heiress of Sal fconstall it passed to 
 the 2nd Earl of Halifax (d. 173d). 
 It is now the property of Colonel 
 and the Baroness North. It retains 
 many traces of its former splen- 
 dour in the shape of woodwork and 
 moulded ceilings, although much of 
 the house has been pulled down. 
 Here lived Colonel Montague, the 
 “ enemy ” of the Plowdens of Aston. 
 (See ante.) 
 
 Close beyond the village is the 
 entrance to the grounds of Edgcott 
 House (R. Aubrey Cartwright, Esq.). 
 The park is picturesque, with very 
 fine elms. The house, large and 
 somewhat dignified, was built in 1752, 
 and occupies the exact site of an 
 earlier mansion, which, as we know 
 from existing drawings, was of Tudor 
 character, with a porch and porch - 
 chamber carried to the roof, and 
 raised on Ionic columns. In this 
 house slept, before the battle of Edge- 
 hill, the king, and the two elder 
 princes, Charles and James. They 
 arrived here from Southam, in the 
 evening of Oct. 22, 1612, and about 
 3 o’clock on the following morning 
 (the Sunday of the battle), the king 
 was roused by a messenger from 
 Prince Rupert, with the news that 
 the Parliament’s army was at hand, 
 and that Charles might fight at once 
 if he chose to do so. Orders were at 
 once issued for the march to Edgehill, 
 to which Charles passed by cross 
 
 H 
 
146 
 
 Route 5 . — Northampton to Stratford-on-Avon . Sect. I. 
 
 roads. (For a notice of the battle 
 see post .) A considerable part of the 
 royal army bad encamped between 
 the village of Edgcott and Cropredy, 
 and returned to these quarters after 
 the battle. The king’s host on this 
 occasion was Sir William Chauncy, 
 the representative of a family which 
 acquired Edgcott in 1543. His full- 
 length portrait bangs in the ball, 
 and represents him in black, with 
 long white stockings, open-work 
 shoes with rosettes, collar and cuffs 
 of lace, and a lace cap under bis bat. 
 In bis right band be carries a long 
 staff’. The inscription bears “iEt. 
 64. Ann. 1637.” The bed in which 
 the king rested is another relic of 
 the house ; and, since evident care 
 lias been taken to retain a carved 
 headboard more ancient than the 
 rest, this older portion may perhaps 
 be regarded without much suspicion. 
 Other portraits preserved here are 
 those of William Henry Cbauncy 
 and wife, assigned to Sir Joshua 
 Reynolds , and a very fine bead of 
 tSir Joshua, by himself. In the bouse 
 is a tobacco-stopper made from the 
 Boscobel oak, and inlaid with silver. 
 On one side is the tree, with the 
 words “ sacer quercus ;” on the other 
 the bead of Charles II. (It may be 
 added that Cromwell E. of Essex, 
 the minister of Hen. VIII. was at 
 one time lord of Edgcott, and that 
 some part of the older bouse was 
 built by him.) Close to the mansion 
 rises the Church , with a Perp. tower 
 and W. doorway so like those at 
 Chipping Warden that they must 
 have been designed by the same 
 architect. (A stoup is placed at the 
 W. door, and another at the S.) The 
 nave is separated from the S. aisle 
 by a remarkable arcade of 2 arches, 
 which are more Trans.-Norm. than 
 E. E. On the capital of one of the 
 piers is an arm with open hand. On 
 the N. side of the chancel is a Perp. 
 vestry with priest’s room above it, 
 approached by a stair in the N.W. 
 angle. The ch. is rich in Cbauncy 
 
 monuments. At the E. end of the S. 
 aisle is an alabaster altar-tomb, with 
 effigies of Wm. Chauncy, d. 1585 
 (the purchaser of the manor), and 
 wife, Joan Bustard. He is in plate- 
 armour, but holds a small hook in 
 his hands. The lady’s dress deserves 
 notice. Below, on another alabaster 
 tomb, are the effigies of Sir Toby 
 Chauncy, d. 1607, son of the pre- 
 ceding, and 2 wives. The costume is 
 precisely the same as in the former 
 case, and the 2 monuments must 
 have been prepared at the same 
 time. Above the tablet for “ Richard 
 Chauncy,” d. 1760, is his bust by 
 Rysbrach. Observe also a slab placed 
 above — “whatsoever was mortal of 
 Bridget Chauncy, of whom man was 
 not worthy d. 1730. The lady died 
 unmarried. 
 
 South of Edgcott is the so-called 
 valley (it is rather a plain) of Danes, 
 or Duns, moor; and in the park is 
 what Morton describes as the “ noted 
 flush spring ” of Pad well, as to which 
 there ran an ancient saying : — 
 
 “If we can Padwell overgo, and Horestone 
 we can see, 
 
 Then Lords of England we shall be.” 
 
 This “ saying ” is locally ascribed 
 to the Danes before a great battle on 
 the ground of Danesmoor, — hence so 
 named. There was no doubt many 
 a fight between Saxons and Danes 
 in this part of England; but the 
 chronicle does not record this one. 
 Danesmoor was, however, undoubt- 
 edly the scene of a fierce fight in 
 1469, when “Robin of Redesdale” 
 led a great body (it is said, 60,000) 
 of “Northerners” in arms toward 
 London, and encamped on Edgcott 
 Hill, above Danesmoor. Here they 
 were encountered by the Earl of 
 Pembroke, marching from Banbury. 
 The northern men were the stronger. 
 Pembroke was taken prisoner, and a 
 day or two after, John of Clapham, 
 “ that fierce Esquire,” struck off the 
 earl’s head (it is said) with his own 
 hand, in the porch of Banbury Ch. 
 
Noethants. Route 5. — Chipping Warden — Edgehill . 
 
 147 
 
 This victory opened the country to 
 “ Robin,” or rather to the true leader 
 of the expedition, Sir John Conyers 
 of Hornby, in Yorkshire, — “a man,” 
 says Hall, “of such courage and 
 valientness as few was in his daies 
 in the north parts.” The peasantry 
 joined his men. They surprised Lord 
 Rivers, the queen’s father, and Sir 
 John Widville, her brother, either at 
 Grafton, or in Whittlebury Forest, 
 and carried them to Northampton, 
 where they were beheaded. Danes- 
 moor is described by Hall as “a 
 faire plaine near to a town called 
 Hedgecote, and between 3 hills,” 
 Chipping Warden Hill, Edgcott Hill, 
 and Cul worth and Thorpe Hill. 
 
 There are some ancient remains 
 in the neighbourhood of Chipping 
 Warden and Edgcott which deserve 
 attention. At and about a place 
 called Black Grounds , on the N. side 
 of the Cherwell, | m. E. of the vil- 
 lage of Warden, Roman relics have 
 been found. Foundation walls, 
 squared stones (some showing the 
 action of fire), and a profusion of 
 coins and pottery are turned up over 
 an extent of nearly 39 acres. They 
 probably mark the site of Brinavis, 
 a station which, it is true, only occurs 
 in an Iter (18th) of Richard of Ciren- 
 cester, but which certainly agrees, 
 as far as the distances are marked, 
 with this place. 
 
 Wallow Bank , 1 m. N.W. of Black 
 Grounds, is a small portion of a ram- 
 part, perpendicular on the W. and 
 sloping toward the E., formed entirely 
 of earth, and once no doubt extend- 
 ing much further. (Compare the 
 “Wall” at Aston, ante.) 
 
 1 m. due W. from Black Grounds, 
 is an entrenchment called Arbury 
 Banks , of peculiar shape, with a cir- 
 cular mount on the outer line. There 
 is no distant view ; and it may, per- 
 haps, be the site of a Saxon house. 
 (The name “Arbury” is given 
 throughout this district to many an- 
 cient camps or earthworks — as in 
 Staverton parish (see Rte. 4), and 
 
 at a place N. of Thenford. (See 
 Rte. 6.) 
 
 We return to Byfield, and, pro- 
 ceeding along the same line of rail- 
 way, soon leave Northamptonshire. 
 The county here sends out a spur 
 towards Warwickshire, and we pass 
 the large Byfield reservoir (see ante), 
 and the church of Bodington (Perp., 
 and containing a fine carved chest) 
 before, crossing the Oxford and Bir- 
 mingham Canal, we arrive in the 
 shire of Shakespeare. There are 
 stations at Fenny Compton (where is 
 a junction with the Great Western 
 Rly. running from Oxford to War- 
 wick), at Kineton, and at Ettington, 
 before the line reaches Stratford-on- 
 Avon. For all these places, see 
 Handbook for Warwickshire. 
 
 The visitor to this part of North- 
 amptonshire will so probably desire 
 to make a pilgrimage to Edgehill, 
 which is conspicuous beyond the 
 border, and the operations before 
 and after the battle were so much 
 connected with this county, that it 
 is as well to insert here a notice of 
 this, the first great engagement of the 
 Civil War. 
 
 Edgehill may be reached from Ban- 
 bury, whence it is distant (to the ruins 
 at theN. end of the hill) 7J m. ; from 
 the station at Fenny Compton (dis- 
 tance to the top of the hill (the ruins), 
 b m. No conveyance is to be hired at 
 the station); or from Kineton station, 
 which is perhaps the best starting- 
 point for the pedestrian, who may 
 walk thence over the battle - field, 
 climb the hill which overlooks the 
 whole scene, and descend either to- 
 ward Banbury, or to the Fenny 
 Compton station. This, however, 
 will be a long round, at least 11 m. 
 from Kineton to Banbury, or 9 miles 
 to the Fenny Compton station. A 
 carriage may, however, be hired at 
 Kineton.) 
 
 The king set up his standard at 
 Nottingham, August 22, 1642. The 
 h 2 
 
148 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Boute 5 . — Battle of Edgehill. 
 
 Earl of Essex, with the army of the 
 Parliament, was at Worcester. From 
 Nottingham Charles marched to 
 Shrewsbury, where he gathered an 
 army from the neighbouring coun- 
 ties and from Wales, not inferior to 
 that commanded by Essex. His ob- 
 ject was to break up the Parliament ; 
 and for this, it was necessary either 
 to defeat Essex, or to outflank him, 
 and so to march upon London. The 
 latter course was chosen. Charles 
 advanced from Shrewsbury to Kenil- 
 worth, but could not enter Coventry 
 or Warwick, both which places were 
 held by Lord Brooke and his troops. 
 Meanwhile, Essex, who had left 
 Worcester, was pressing on the king 
 by forced marches ; but Charles 
 turned the flank of the Parliament’s 
 army by crossing the Avon at one of 
 the fords between Warwick and Co- 
 ventry, and thus advanced upon 
 Southam. But the entire length of 
 the Avon lay open for the unmolested 
 passage of Essex’s army, in pursuit of 
 that of the king. 
 
 Charles slept at Southam on the 
 night of the 21st of October. On 
 the 22nd, he proceeded, with his two 
 sons, Charles and James, to the 
 house of Edgcott, in Northampton- 
 shire (see the present Rte. ante). 
 On his way, he passed the old hall 
 of the Shuckburghs (marked by a 
 cluster of trees on a hill-top, just 
 within the Warwickshire border ) ; 
 and as the king rode on over what was 
 then open country, he saw, accord- 
 ing to a local tradition preserved by 
 an annotator of Dugdale, “ a gentle- 
 man amusing himself with a pack of 
 hounds,” and asked who it was that 
 could hunt so merrily, when his 
 sovereign was about to fight for his 
 crown and dignity. Mr. Richard 
 Shuckburgh was introduced accord- 
 ingly. Charles persuaded him to 
 take home his hounds, and to raise 
 his tenantry. The next day he 
 joined the royal army with a troop 
 of horse, and was knighted by the 
 king on the field of Edgehill. 
 
 Prince Rupert, with his horse, took 
 up his quarters on the night of the 
 22nd at Wormleighton (1 J m. N.E. of 
 the Fenny Compton stat., where he 
 occupied a stately house which had 
 not long before been built by Sir 
 Robert Spencer, created by James I. 
 Baron Spencer of Wormleighton. 
 (See Althorp , Rte. 7.) Here, word 
 was brought to him that the fires of 
 Essex’s troops were visible on the 
 plain near Kineton ; and Rupert in- 
 stantly sent a messenger to the king 
 at Edgcott, with the news, and the 
 addition that, “he might fight if he 
 chose.” This resolution was taken. 
 Rupert marched from Wormleighton, 
 and the appearance of some of his 
 horse on the brow of Edgehill, about 
 8 in the morning of October 23rd, 
 gave the first notice to Essex that 
 his enemy was near at hand. The 
 king, advancing from Edgcott, soon 
 joined Rupert, and a line of battle 
 was formed along the brow of the 
 hill, the right resting on what is 
 now known as Bullet Hill, where the 
 road comes up from Kineton ; the 
 centre, where the king’s tent was 
 pitched, and his standard displayed, 
 on the site of the “Round House,” now 
 marked by a sham ruin, immediately 
 over the village of Radway ; and the 
 left, where the road runs up from 
 Stratford-on-Avon to the house called 
 the “Sunrising.” Difficult ground 
 on the right and left protected the 
 flanks. Immediately in front, the 
 ridge of Edgehill, which stretches 
 almost N. and S., sinks suddenly 
 down on what is the “ central plain” 
 of England ; whilst at the northern 
 end this ridge is crossed at a right 
 angle by the Dasset Hills, which 
 throw out a spur of high ground, 
 into the level. The king could thus 
 overlook the entire position of his 
 adversaries, which lay below him as 
 on a map. The troops of Essex had 
 posted themselves in the plain, with 
 the little town of Kineton at their 
 
 I back. Essex himself occupied a 
 rising ground, now known as “ the 
 
Noethants. 
 
 Route 5 . — Battle of Edgehill* 
 
 149 
 
 two battle farms,” Battlerlon and 
 Thistledom On bis right wing 
 were 3 regiments of horse; on his 
 left, 5 of infantry. His army, al- 
 though about 3000 of the best men, 
 under the command of Hampden, 
 were a day’s march in the rear, in 
 charge of the greater part of their 
 ammunition and artillery, numbered 
 between 12,000 and 13,000 men. 
 That of the king was superior by 
 at least 2000 infantry, and some 
 troops of horse. Some of the best 
 disciplined men in his army were 
 brought to Edgehill by Spencer 
 Compton, Earl of Northampton, the 
 great Royalist leader in this part of 
 the country, who had levied them at 
 his own charge, and had dedicated 
 all his children to the king’s service. 
 
 Charles, it is said, breakfasted at 
 a cottage in the village of Rad way 
 (still shown) ; and a small mount or 
 hillock which has been planted and 
 preserved as a memorial, is pointed 
 out as the spot to which he advanced 
 in order to take a survey of the 
 enemy with a “prospect glass.” 
 Meanwhile, preachers were seen to 
 ride along the ranks of Essex’s 
 army, exhorting the men to do their 
 duty. A hasty council of war was 
 held on Edgehill. Had the king 
 chosen to await the attack of Essex 
 in the strong position occupied by 
 his army, his success could hardly 
 have been doubtful. But his men 
 were impatient and high in spirit; 
 in the plain below his cavalry might 
 act with great advantage; and in 
 spite of the prudent counsel of his 
 brave old general, the Earl of Lind- 
 sey, Charles determined to push for- 
 ward the two first lines, and to meet 
 the attack half-way. He rode along 
 in front of his troops in full armour, 
 with the ribbon of the Garter across 
 his breastplate, and its star on his 
 mantle of black velvet. In his tent 
 he addressed his principal officers, 
 “ Come life or death, your king will 
 bear you company.” Lord Lindsey’s 
 prayer before the battle is famous : 
 
 “ O Lord, Thou knowest how busy I 
 must be this day. If I forget Thee, 
 do not Thou forget me. — March on 
 boys.” His place was in the centre 
 of the royal army, at the head of the 
 foot-guards, the “ red coats ” as they 
 were called. Here also were the 
 king himself, and Sir Edmund Ver- 
 ney carrying the king's standard. 
 On the left, the royal cavalry were 
 commanded by Lord Wilmot. On 
 the right, at the head of the steep 
 descent now marked by the Kinetou 
 road, was Prince Rupert with his 
 horse. Both armies advanced about 
 2 in the afternoon, and the battle 
 began about 3, when the Parliament’s 
 guns opened from their right flank. 
 On the king’s right, as Rupert ad- 
 vanced, he encountered the enemy’s 
 left on the side of “ Bullet Hill,” so 
 called from the relics of the fight 
 still often turned up there. But 
 suddenly, Sir Faithful Fortescue and 
 his men, who were in Essex’s ranks 
 (see post), fired their pistols into the 
 ground, and galloped into Rupert's 
 lines. This desertion entirely con- 
 fused the Parliamentarians. Their 
 left wing broke and fled before 
 Rupert’s troopers; and the pursuit 
 lasted with great slaughter, across 
 the open fields for nearly 3 miles, as 
 far as the town of Kineton. In 
 Kineton, Rupert allowed himself to 
 be detained for an hour in plunder- 
 ing the baggage of Essex’s troops, 
 which had been left in the streets. 
 An alarm was all at once given that 
 the enemy was again forming ; and 
 the prince drew up his cavalry on 
 ground which still bears the name 
 of “Rupert’s Headland.” But it 
 was too late. Hampden and his 
 troops, who, as has been said, were 
 some marches behind the rest of the 
 army, came up at this juncture and 
 opened fire. Rupert was compelled 
 to recross the plain in great con- 
 fusion, throwing away his feathered 
 hat that he might not be too clearly 
 marked; and he reached the kings 
 centre to find it in utter confusion. 
 
150 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Route 5. —Bat 
 
 The royal standard had been taken, 
 and Sir Edmund Yerney killed. 
 Lord Lindsey had been shot in the 
 thigh and made prisoner ; and the 
 king himself, as Clarendon admits, 
 was in great personal danger, since, 
 with fewer than 100 horse, and they 
 without an officer, he was within 
 lialf-musket shot of the enemy. It 
 was, in short, the darkness of the 
 October evening which enabled the 
 royal troops to hold their ground. 
 u Charles,” says Clarendon, “ caused 
 his cannon which were nearest to 
 the enemy to be drawn off, and with 
 his whole forces spent the night in 
 the field, by such a fire as could be 
 made of the little wood and bushes 
 which grow thereabouts.” At day- 
 break, part of the Parliament’s army 
 was still seen in array ; but the ill- 
 success of either side had been 
 nearly evenly balanced, and neither 
 was anxious to renew the struggle. 
 Both sides claimed the victory ; and 
 a fire was lighted on the curious 
 beacon tower which still rises on 
 the edge of the Dasset Hills, con- 
 veying the news to a hill above 
 Ivinghoe in Buckinghamshire, thence 
 to Highgate, and so to London. 
 The real advantage nevertheless 
 rested with the king. His army was 
 still between Essex and the Parlia- 
 ment ; and all the country round 
 Edgehill fell at once into his power. 
 The dead on either side, whose num- 
 bers were greatly exaggerated, but 
 who seem to have been about 1300 
 or 1400, were buried for the most 
 part between the two farmhouses of 
 Battledon and Thistledon, on ground 
 now called, “ the graveyards,” where 
 relics are often turned up. As on 
 many another battle-field, a “ phan- 
 tom fight” was duly beheld here 
 about three months after the struggle. 
 “ Apparitions, and prodigious noyses 
 of war and battels,” according to a 
 contemporary pamphleteer, were then 
 seen and heard on the plain of Kine- 
 ton, sundry of the “ incorporeal sub- 
 stances ” being distinctly known by 
 
 l Ie of Edgehill . 
 
 their faces, as Sir Edmund Yerney, 
 and “ others who were there slain.” 
 On the king’s side, besides Yerney, 
 fell Col. Monro, Lord Aubigny, and 
 Lord Lindsey, who died in Essex’s 
 coach on his way to Warwick Castle, 
 “under the portcullis of which his 
 corpse entered side by side with that 
 of his youthful and gallant enemy, 
 Charles Essex.” Lord Willoughby, 
 son of the E. of Lindsey, was made 
 prisoner in attempting to rescue his 
 father. Lord St. John of Bletsho 
 was the chief person killed on the 
 Parliament’s side. After the death 
 of Sir Edward Yerney, the royal 
 standard was taken by an ensign 
 named Young, and delivered by Lord 
 Essex to his own secretary, Cham- 
 bers, who rode by his side. But, in 
 the confusion, one of the king’s 
 officers, Captain Smith, drew on the 
 orange scarf of a fallen Parlia- 
 mentarian, and, riding in among the 
 enemy’s lines, told the secretary that 
 it was “a shame so honourable a 
 trophy of war should be borne by a 
 penman.” He resigned it. The Ca- 
 valier galloped back with it, and 
 before evening, was knighted under 
 its shadow. — The defection of Sir 
 Faithful Fortescue is thus explained. 
 He had been employed to enlist 
 troops in Ireland and in England, 
 which were to be used for the king’s 
 service (with the consent of Par- 
 liament), in the north of Ireland. 
 Fortescue was on the point of em- 
 barking with his soldiers from Bristol 
 when the Civil War broke out. He 
 was ordered by the Parliament to 
 march across the country and to join 
 Essex’s army, which he did. But 
 he was a Boyalist ; and conceiving 
 that his men had been raised for the 
 king’s service, he arranged to join 
 Eupert as soon as possible. 
 
 The princes Charles and James 
 were with the king at Edgehill, but 
 remained apart, under the care of 
 their tutor Harvey, the well-known 
 discoverer of the circulation of the 
 blood. It is said that a bullet or 
 
151 
 
 Northants. Boute 5. — Battle-field of Edgehill. 
 
 two having fallen near the place 
 where they were at first stationed, 
 Harvey removed them to a some- 
 what greater distance from the 
 scene of battle, and was afterwards 
 found seated quietly under a hedge 
 with the princes, reading Virgil. j 
 The present appearance of Edge- 
 hill so far differs from what it must 
 have been at the time of the battle, 
 that the country is enclosed, and that 
 the steep western slope of the hill has 
 been planted. The scene, however, 
 commanded from the ridge, is in the 
 main unchanged. The great mid- 
 land plain is commanded, from the 
 Malverns on one side, to Charn- 
 wood Forest on the other. The 
 country is in sight through which 
 both armies advanced before the 
 fight. The Avon is seen at a dis- 
 tance of ten or twelve miles; its 
 course being marked by the spires of 
 Coventry, the tower of St. Mary’s at 
 Warwick, the spire of Stratford-on- 
 Avon, and Bredon Hill in Worcester- 
 shire. All this is best seen from the 
 upper room of a remarkable modern 
 ruin, which occupies the site of the 
 old “ Round House ”; an amazing 
 collection of shattered walls, broken 
 mullions, and fallen pinnacles, among 
 which rises one lofty round tower. 
 This is made accessible by a draw- 
 bridge; and a somewhat perilous 
 staircase leads to a banqueting room 
 at the top, round which are hung the 
 shields assigned to the several king- 
 doms of Saxon England. This 
 “ ruin ” was the work of one of the 
 Millers of Radway Grange, in the 
 first half of the last century, when 
 such sham “ triumphs of time ” were 
 in fashion. The builder was a friend 
 of Fielding, Shenstone, and other 
 eminent men of that period. It is 
 said that part of 4 Tom Jones * was 
 written at Rad way. A Mr. Jago, 
 vicar of Snitterfield, near Stratford, 
 published in 1767 a poem in four 
 books, called 4 Edgehill,’ and refers 
 to the then new paths and planta- 
 tions, and to the ruins : — 
 
 “ And oft the stately towers that overtop 
 The rising wood, and oft the broken arch 
 Or mould’ring wall, well taught to counter- 
 feit 
 
 The waste of Time, to solemn thought 
 excite 
 
 And crown with graceful f pomp the shaggy 
 hill.” 
 
 A track, now overgrown, in the 
 woods, is pointed out as that by 
 which the king, on the morning of 
 the battle, drove down the hill in his 
 “coach,” before breakfasting in the 
 Radway cottage; and in Rad way 
 church was buried Captain Kings- 
 mill, who fell on the king’s side. 
 The house, called the “ Sunrising,” 
 at the southern end of the ridge of 
 Edgehill, is no longer, as in 1642, 
 an inn. It has been converted into 
 a private dwelling by its owner and 
 occupier, Mr. Godson ; who possesses 
 a sword with the Lindsey crest, said 
 to be that carried into the battle by 
 the unfortunate general. On the 
 western front of Edgehill, toward the 
 south, is the figure of a horse cut in 
 the red loam, as a memorial of that 
 Earl of Warwick, who, before the 
 fight of Tow ton, killed his horse, and 
 vowed to share the perils of the 
 meanest of his soldiers. The figure 
 gives to that part of the plain the 
 name of the “Vale of the Red 
 Horse ” ; and a Puritan writer de- 
 scribing the battle, declared that at 
 Edgehill, 4 ‘ the red horse of the 
 wrath of the Lord rode about fu- 
 riously to the ruin of the enemy.” 
 There is a British camp called 
 Nadbury , covering about eighteen 
 acres, on the top of Edgehill, to- 
 ward Ratley. The views from the 
 Basset Hills are very striking, and 
 the situation of Burton Basset church 
 is most picturesque. The ch. is 
 Trans.-Norm. and E.-Eng., and well 
 deserves a visit. About J m. from 
 it, on the hill, is the beacon , which 
 was lighted as a signal of what 
 the Parliamentarians called victory. 
 This is a round building of stone, 
 perhaps of the 15th cent. It has a 
 conical roof, on which, within a para- 
 
152 
 
 Boute 6 . — Banbury to Northampton. 
 
 pet, the materials for the beacon fire 
 w ere piled together. 
 
 ROUTE 6. 
 
 BANBURY TO NORTHAMPTON. FAR- 
 THINGHO TO BRACKLEY. 
 
 Branch of North- Western Bly. 
 
 The rly. from Banbury passes 
 through pleasant country to 
 
 4 m. Farthingho Stat. The church 
 here (Perp. and of no great interest) 
 was restored in 1871. There is 
 indeed little to detain the tourist at 
 Farthingho (whatever the first part 
 of the name may signify, the “ ho ” 
 termination is one which is found in 
 many other parts of England, espe- 
 cially in the eastern counties, and 
 implies a low hill or rising ground) 
 unless he cares to visit the source of 
 the “ greater” Ouse — one of the 
 many rivers, which, rising in this 
 central part of the island, find their 
 way to the Eastern or Western sea. 
 Ouse well is in a field at the foot of 
 the hill descending E. from the vil- 
 lage. It flows hence to Brackley, 
 and then, in Drayton’s words — 
 
 “ From Brackley breaking forth, through soiles 
 most heavenly sweet 
 
 By Buckingham makes on; and crossing 
 Watling street 
 
 Shee with her lesser Ouze at Newport next 
 doth twin, 
 
 'Which from proud Chiltern neare, comes 
 eas’ly ambling in.” 
 
 [The Church of Thenford , 2 m. 
 N.W., has a Trans.-Norm. arcade 
 with a Perp. tower. Chancel and 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 aisles are Dec. There is some pld 
 stained glass. There is a Jacobean 
 monument with effigy, assigned to 
 Fulk Woodhull, who died in 1013. 
 He was the ancestor of Michael 
 Woodhull, d. 1816, — a distinguished 
 bibliographer, who was, says f)r. 
 Dibdin, “profoundly versed in the 
 volumes of Maittaire; and he who 
 retaineth the information which such 
 volumes possess may be said to lift 
 his head very high in the atmosphere 
 of bibliographical erudition.” His 
 library, one of great value and 
 interest, remains in the manor-house i 
 built by his father, and now the 
 .residence of Mrs. Severne. There 
 are a few pictures, chiefly copies 
 from Vandyek ; but the portrait of 
 Charles I. dictating to Sir Edward 
 Walker on the drumhead, can hardly 
 be by, or after, that painter. There 
 is an original portrait of Sir Charles 
 Wandesford (Strafford’s follower), 
 master of the rolls in Ireland, 1639, 
 in his robes. In Seabridge Close, 
 about 600 yards N.W. from the 
 church, is a large funeral pile formed 
 of earth and rubble, where bones 
 and urns have been found. Roman 
 remains, in greater quantity than 
 those of an ordinary villa, occur 
 here.] 
 
 From Banbury a train runs by 
 Farthingho, Brackley, and Buck- 
 ingham to Bletchley. Brackley is 
 reached from Farthingho in 12 
 minutes, and the rly. there leaves 
 N orthamptonshire. 
 
 Between Farthingho and Brackley, 
 Steane and Hinton - in - the - hedges 
 are passed. Steane is interesting as 
 the birth and burial place of Na- 
 thanael, Lord Crewe, Bp. of Durham 
 from 1674 to 1721. Sir Thomas 
 Crewe acquired the manor-house 
 here by marriage with the heiress 
 of the Brays, temp. Eliz. His son, 
 for his exertions in favour of the 
 restoration, was created Baron Crewe 
 of Steane in 1661. His eldest son 
 
Noethants. 
 
 153 
 
 j Route 6. — Steane — Brachley. 
 
 Thomas, second Lord Crewe, died in 
 1697 without male issue, and the 
 title and estates then passed to his 
 fourth, but eldest surviving brother, 
 the Bp. of Durham — the first who 
 in this country united the temporal 
 and spiritual peerage. The political 
 tergiversations of this Lord Crewe 
 — his subserviency to James, and his 
 readiness afterwards to make peace 
 with William — are without defence. 
 But it has been said with truth that 
 “many men have been canonized 
 for works of beneficence much in- 
 ferior to those of this prelate.” The 
 princely establishment at Barn- 
 borough Castle, and other charit- 
 able institutions in Northumberland 
 are due to him. He was born at 
 Steane, in a manor-house built by 
 the Brays, and pulled down (except 
 the kitchens) about 1740 — Jan. 31, 
 1633; and died in the same house. 
 Sept. 18, 1721. The church or 
 chapel (it is attached to Hinton) 
 which adjoins the farm-house formed 
 out of the kitchens of the old manor- 
 house was built by “ Thomas Crewe ” 
 before he was knighted in 1620. 
 His initials are on the W. front ; and 
 over the door are the words “ Holi- 
 ness becometh thine howse, O Lord, 
 for ever.” The whole building is 
 small. The altar coverings of 
 crimson velvet, the reading-desk 
 and pulpit, were given by the Bp. 
 of Durham, and were brought here 
 from the Chapel Royal at St. James’s, 
 where he had been clerk of the 
 closet to Charles II. The Bible and 
 Common Prayer Book were those 
 used by the king himself; and there 
 are also here six other books of 
 Common Prayer, with the insignia 
 of Wm. III. on the covers. There 
 is a north chapel which serves as 
 the Crewe cemetery. In it is the 
 monument of Sir Thomas Crewe, 
 d. 1633, and his wife, Temperance 
 Bray; fche in sergeant’s robes, coif, 
 and quilted ruff; she on a shelf 
 below. The inscription records that 
 “ her hand, which had good blood in 
 
 every vaine, yet was not dayntye, 
 nor did disdayne salve to applye to 
 Lazarus sore.” There are also me- 
 morials for the first and second 
 Lords Crewe ; and most interesting 
 of all, for the Bp. of Durham— a 
 monument of variegated marble, 
 without any great pretension. Here 
 is also the monument of his second 
 wife, daughter of Sir William Foster 
 of Bamborough — and the bishop, it 
 is said, often visited this memorial. 
 The tomb had been decorated with 
 a skull ; and Lord Crewe having ex- 
 pressed a wish that it should be 
 converted into something more pleas- 
 ing, the Banbury sculptor modified 
 it into the bunch of grapes which 
 remains. There are some other 
 Crewe monuments, including one 
 for Temperance, wife of John Browne, 
 and third daughter of Sir Thomas 
 Crewe, d. 1634, — a shrouded female 
 rises from a coffin ; and the inscrip- 
 tion tells us that the lady was u a 
 constant lover of the best .... her 
 spirite of a dayntye elevation. . . . 
 this becoming mortall translated her 
 into immortality e ... * aged 25 
 years.” 
 
 The . Church of Hinton-in-the- 
 hedges (the name indicating ancient 
 enclosure) has a Norm, tower with 
 a good arch opening to nave, and a 
 Norm. font. The whole church was 
 restored, and the chancel partly 
 rebuilt, in 1869. There is a brass 
 for Sir William Saunders, 1452 ; and 
 altar-tombs with rough effigies of a 
 knight and lady, temp. Edw. III. — 
 probably belonging to a family which 
 assumed the local surname and re- 
 mained here until the beginning of 
 the reign of Hen. IY. 
 
 The “ borough town ” of Brachley 
 (Inn: Crown. Pop. in 1871, 2351) 
 lies on the side, and along the 
 summit of a hill, below which runs 
 the stream of the Ouse. The first 
 charter confirming the liberties of 
 the borough, is undated, but be- 
 longs to the reign of Hen. Ill, It 
 h 3 
 
154 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Route 6 . — Banbury to Northampton. 
 
 is said to have been made a staple 
 for wool, temp. Edw. II., and it was 
 undoubtedly at that time a place 
 of some commercial importance, al- 
 though all signs of this had vanished 
 when Leland visited what he calls 
 the “pore towne.” It belonged to 
 a portion of the Honour of Leicester 
 which was afterwards merged in 
 the Honour of Winchester ; and its 
 feudal lords— de Quincys, Zouches, 
 Stanleys, and others, had a castle 
 here, which at an early period fell 
 into decay, and the site of which is 
 now marked alone by the name of 
 the hill where it stood. Bracklev 
 returned two members to Parlia- 
 ment from the reign of Edw. VI. until 
 the disfranchisement of the borough 
 under the Reform Bill of 1832. On 
 the death of William Stanley, 6th 
 Earl of Derby, in 1642, his estates 
 not settled in “tail male” were 
 divided aiiiong his daughters, one of 
 whom, Frances, became the wife of 
 John Egerton, son of the Lord Chan- 
 cellor Ellesmere. In view of this mar- 
 riage Lord Ellesmere chose Brackley 
 for the title of his own viscountcy ; 
 and his son John, succeeding, be- 
 came second Viscount Brackley and 
 first Earl of Bridgewater. The 
 titles were revived (Earl of Elles- 
 mere and Viscount Brackley) in 
 1 846 in favour of the second son of 
 the first Duke of Sutherland. 
 Brackley does not stand on any 
 great line of ancient road ; but the 
 place is named in ^connexion with 
 the gathering [of the barons in the 
 reign of John, and again during the 
 Barons’ war of Hen. III. In 1215, 
 after the barons had met at Stam- 
 ford, they proceeded with a large 
 army to Brackley, where they halted 
 for some days. John was at Oxford, 
 and sent to Brackley to learn the 
 claims of the barons. He refused 
 their demands ; and Robert Fitz 
 Walter was then, at Brackley, chosen 
 their leader, “ Marshall of the army 
 of God and of Holy Church.” They 
 marched thence to Northampton. 
 
 (This, it need hardly be said, was 
 the beginning of the “ Magna 
 Charta ” struggle). In 1264 Simon 
 de Montfort and his adherents met 
 at Brackley Sir John de Valencinis, 
 the representative of the King of 
 France, to whose arbitration they 
 had agreed to refer the questions in 
 dispute between them and King 
 Henry. It is probable that Brackley 
 heath, a large tract of open ground, 
 being centrally placed, was (with 
 the de Quincy castle) the reason for 
 the selection of this place on both 
 occasions. It was chosen by the 
 Parliamentarian general, the Earl 
 of Essex, for the rendezvous of his 
 army in 1643, when he marched for 
 the relief of Gloucester, which the 
 king was besieging. In 1642, after 
 the royal standard had been raised 
 at Nottingham, 3 troops of horse 
 under the command of Sir John 
 Byron and his brothers, were de- 
 tached to Oxford. They were at- 
 tacked and routed at Brackley by 
 the country people, who got “two 
 hats full of gold, about 2000L in 
 silver, a packet of “ rich cloaths of 
 Sir John Byron’s, worth 200Z.,” 
 many horses and other plunder. 
 
 The sole object of interest in 
 Brackley at present is St Peter's 
 Church , the E. E. tower of which 
 is very fine. Above the W. door 
 are 3 lancets, 2 of which are blind 
 niches, retaining much-worn figures. 
 In the stage above is a single 
 lancet ; and the belfry stage is 
 much enriched with arcades and 
 bracketing. The rest of the church 
 is mainly late Dec. and Perp. There 
 is an eastern Lady Chapel, with 
 crypt. A second church, which 
 contained Norman work, stood near 
 the rly. station, but has been pulled 
 down. In the town is the Magdalen 
 College Grammar School , founded 
 and endowed by Wm. of Wainflete 
 in 1447, and re-organised in 1860. 
 It took the place of the hospital of 
 St. John, founded by Robert Earl of 
 Leicester soon after the Conquest. 
 
Northants. 
 
 155 
 
 Boute 6 . — Marslon — Sul grave. 
 
 The old buildings have entirely dis- 
 appeared ; but the chapel, with 
 Trans.-Norm. and E. E. portions, 
 remains, and has been restored. 
 During the plague in Oxford, temp. 
 Hen. VIII., the master and fellows 
 of Magdalen College removed to this 
 hospital. 
 
 On a table-land called Bayards’ 
 (i.e. y horses’) Green, S. of the Ouse, 
 near the mill in fEvenlyf parish, 
 between Brackley and Mixbury, a 
 tournament was held in 1194. 
 
 Proceeding from Farthingho, we 
 reach the next station at, 
 
 8f m. from Banbury, Helmdon. 
 On the way the churches of Marston 
 St. Lawrence, and Gretworth are 
 passed L 
 
 Marston Church is Dec., but the 
 east window (and others of the 
 chancel) show much of Perp. cha- 
 racter. The side windows are of 2 
 lights, long and narrow, with tran- 
 soms. On the N. side are the re- 
 mains of a fine Holy sepulchre. The 
 chancel screen has on it the date 
 1610, and is an unusual example of 
 such a screen at that period. It 
 may have been designed by the 
 carver of the altar-piece, which is of 
 wood, and of the same date. The 
 nave arcade is Dec., the tower Perp. 
 In thech.-yd. is a very large yew- 
 tree, measuring 17 ft. 10 in. at the 
 ground, and 21 ft. 9 in. at 6 ft. from 
 the ground. The branches spread 
 62 ft. from N. to S. and 57 ft. E. to 
 W. The church contains many 
 monuments for the family of Blen- 
 cowe, including one for Sir John 
 Blencowe, Judge in the Court of 
 Common Pleas from 1697 to 1722. 
 The principal manor here belonged 
 to the Carthusians of Shene, and on 
 the Dissolution was granted to Tho- 
 mas Blencowe. At the Manor-House 
 (J. A. Blencowe, Esq.) are many 
 family portraits, including one of 
 the Judge, in his robes. There is a 
 
 chimney-piece of carved oak in the 
 dining-room, which is no doubt the 
 work of the artist who carved the 
 altar-piece in the church. Gretworth 
 stands on high ground, commanding 
 wide views. The nave of the church 
 is modern. The chancel E. E. ; the 
 tower Perp. 
 
 There is nothing to detain the 
 tourist at Helmdon , a long strag- 
 gling village, where the church is 
 without interest, unless he cares to 
 inspect a chimney-piece at the rec- 
 tory, on which is a date which con- 
 siderably exercised antiquaries of 
 the last century. It appears to run, 
 “An. Do. M 133,” and the debate 
 has been whether we are to under- 
 stand 1133 or 1535. It is now 
 certain that the latter is the case ; 
 and the initials W. R. following the 
 date are no doubt those of William 
 Reynold, rector from 1523 to 1560; 
 In the ch.-yd. is a very large yew 
 tree. 
 
 [There is nothing of interest at 
 Badston or Whitfield , parishes on 
 the border of the county, S. of 
 Helmdon. Whitfield church was 
 rebuilt in 1869, when the old tower 
 was blown down. Syresham , ad- 
 joining Whitfield, is not more im- 
 portant. These places lie on or 
 adjoining the high road from Oxford 
 to Towcester, through Brackley. 
 
 At Sulgrave, 3 m. N.W. of Helm- 
 don, is an indifferent Perp. church, 
 containing a small brass for “Law- 
 rence Washington, gent., died 1583, 
 and Ann his wyf,” by whom he had 
 4 sons and 7 daughters. He is de- 
 scribed as “of Northampton,” and 
 lands in Sulgrave belonging to 
 Canons Ashby and Catesby were 
 granted to him on the dissolution of 
 those religious houses. The grand- 
 son of this Lawrence, bearing the 
 same Christian name, sold (jointly 
 with his father) Sulgrave to a rela- 
 tive, and went himself to Brington, 
 
156 
 
 Boute 6 . — Banbury to Northampton . Sect. !• 
 
 where he died (see Brington , Rte. 7). 
 His second son, John Washington, 
 emigrated to America, about the 
 middle of the 17th cent., and was 
 great-grandfather of the patriot 
 George Washington. The tomb slab 
 here, as at Brington, bears the 
 Washington arms, “two bars gules, 
 in chief 3 mullets of the second.” 
 It is difficult to believe that the 
 “ stars and stripes” of the American 
 flag were not derived from this coat ; 
 but the history of that flag is well 
 ascertained, and we must be content 
 to acknowledge a very strange and 
 remarkable coincidence. There are 
 remains of what is called a castle, 
 W. of the ch.-yd. Close to the 
 ancient road, called “ Banbury-lane,” 
 which runs through this parish, is 
 a tumulus, called Barrow Hill, from 
 which, according to Morton, “nine 
 counties do present themselves to 
 one view.” (These are Northants., 
 Warwicksh., Worcestersh,, Oxfordsh., 
 Gloucestersh., Berks., Bucks., Beds., 
 and Herts.) The base is 25 yds. by 
 19 yds., the summit 12 yds. by 10 
 yds. On it grows a great decaying 
 ash-tree, said to be 4 centuries old. 
 This tree was a famous witch haunt, 
 and the people of Sulgrave wished 
 to cut it down. But after they had 
 climbed the hill, and had begun 
 their work, they saw their village, 
 to all appearance, in flames, and re- 
 turned in haste. Meanwhile the 
 witches repaired the injury done to 
 the tree, and it was preserved. In 
 the 2nd half of the last cent., Sul- 
 grave was the resort of a gang of 
 highwaymen who for 20 years were 
 the terror of Northamptonsh. They 
 were known as the “ Culworth 
 Gang,” since many of them lived in 
 that village. The parish clerk of 
 Sulgrave was one of the most daring 
 among them, and he always carried 
 pistols in church, fearing that an 
 attack might be made on him there, 
 since it was in Sulgrave church 
 that the stolen goods were for the 
 most part hidden. Another of the 
 
 gang was a man named Gilkes, son 
 of very respectable parents in the 
 neighbourhood, who joined for the 
 sake of “excitement and romance.” 
 Two of them, who were taken at 
 Towcester, made a confession which 
 led to the breaking up of the whole 
 business, and four of the gang were 
 hanged at Northampton, Aug. 3, 
 1787. 
 
 The station beyond Helmdon is 
 
 12 J m. Wappenham . The village 
 stands on high ground, and the 
 church has Norm, and E. E. por- 
 tions. In it are the following 
 brasses: an unknown man, in ar- 
 mour, circ. 1460, lower half lost; 
 Sir Thos. Billing, Ch. Justice of the 
 Ot. of C. Pleas, d. 1180, and wife 
 (this brass was brought from Bit- 
 tlesden Abbey after the Dissolution), 
 portion lost ; Constantia, wife of 
 John Butler, 1499; unknown man, 
 in armour, and wife, circ. 1500. 
 The manor-house of Astwell in this 
 parish belonged to the Shirleys, 
 Earls Ferrars, and retains some 
 Tudor portions, besides an embattled 
 tower which may be earlier. The 
 greater part of the house has been 
 pulled down. In it was born, Aug. 
 IB, 1707, the w~ell-known Selina 
 Shirley, afterwards Countess of 
 Huntingdon, to whom George Whit- 
 field was for some time chaplain. 
 
 The churches of Abtliorpe and 
 Slapton , neither of much importance, 
 are passed between Wappenham and 
 
 16| m. Towcester . (See Rte. 5.) 
 
 For the line between Towcester 
 and Northampton, see Rte3. 1 and 5. 
 
Northants. Boute 7. — Northampton to Bugby , by Boad. 157 
 
 ROUTE 7. 
 
 NORTHAMPTON TO RUGBY- 
 
 By Boad. 
 
 Dallington Hall and Church, 
 passed at 1 m. on this road, are 
 noticed in Rte. 1. At 4 m. from 
 Northampton is Harleston , the Herol- 
 vestune of the Domesday Survey. 
 1. of the road is Harleston Hall , be- 
 longing to Earl Spencer. Rt. is the 
 Church , which is of considerable in- 
 terest, since we know the exact time 
 of its building. It was constructed 
 entirely de novo during the rec- 
 torate of Richard de Hette (1292- 
 1334), as we learn, both from his tomb 
 slab in the S. aisle, round which is 
 the inscription, “ Orate pro anima 
 Ricardi de Hette qui fecit cancellam, 
 cujus auxilio fuit ecclesia facta, anno 
 domini mcccxx quinto,” and from the 
 very curious “ journal ” of Henry de 
 Bray, the principal landowner here, 
 who writes, “Magister R. de Het 
 instit. ad presentationem Prioris de 
 Lenton, a.d. 1292 incipiente. Et 
 ipse de novo fecit cancellam, a.d. 
 1320. Tota ecclesia facta fuit de 
 novo temp, dicti rectoris, a.d. 1325. 
 Rogerus de Lomelay invenit ferra- 
 menta et verruram ; Henricus de 
 Bray petram et merremium (timber). 
 Johannes Dyve carpentriam.” “ Ipse 
 Ricardus,” he adds, “ fuit rector 42 
 annos.” The year of Henry de Bray’s 
 death is unknown, but it must have 
 been after 1334. His “ register,” or 
 journal, is now in the Brit. Mus. — 
 (Lansdowne MSS. No. 761.) The 
 church consists of tower, nave, N. and 
 
 S. aisles, chancel, and S. porch. The 
 tower is E. Eng., and of course 
 part of the earlier church. The 
 chancel retains much of de Hette’ s 
 work, although there has been 
 considerable “modernizing.” The 
 sedilia and piscina, with trefoiled 
 arches, are good and well executed. 
 The hood-mouldings of the windows 
 terminate in the peculiar Decorated 
 ornament first named by the late 
 Mr. Hartshorne, “ buckle,” here un- 
 usually developed. The rest of the 
 church, as we have seen, is somewhat 
 later, and the aisles, with their win- 
 dows, have been very little touched 
 by “improvers.” The windows are 
 of 3 lights, with ogee arches, and. 
 reticulated, quatrefoiled tracery. 
 The clerestory windows are Perp., 
 and are either entire insertions or 
 enlargements of the older. The porch 
 is slightly later than the S. aisle. 
 The font may be E. Eng,, and there 
 are some fragments of Dec. glass in 
 the windows. Under the chancel is 
 a small crypt (with a simple groined 
 roof), rendered necessary by the 
 sloping of the ground. The church 
 contains some monuments, hand- 
 some, but of no great interest, for 
 the families of Andrew and Lovell 
 (17th and 18th cents.). 
 
 1 m. beyond Harleston, the road 
 is skirted, 1., by the park wall of 
 Althorp (Earl Spencer). This place, 
 it need hardly be said, besides the 
 beauty of its park scenery, has 
 attractions of a very special cha- 
 racter. The house contains an enor- 
 mous collection of pictures, chiefly 
 portraits of high interest ; and 
 the whole of the great Spencer 
 library, a collection which is pro- 
 bably unequalled, in so far as the 
 numbers, value, and perfect condition 
 of its early printed books are con- 
 cerned, has long been assembled here. 
 
 Althorp, the “ Olletorp ” and 
 “ Alidetorp ” of Domesday (qy., the 
 old thorp or hamlet ?) passed through 
 Yielestons, Lumleys, and Catesbys 
 to John Spencer (after wards knighted 
 
158 
 
 Route 7. — Althorp : History. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 by Hen. VIII.), a part in 1508 and 
 the rest in 1512. The Spencers, who 
 claim to be descended from Robert 
 “le Dispenser,” the Conqueror’s 
 steward, passed into this county from 
 Warwickshire, where the same Sir 
 John Spencer became the proprietor 
 of Wormleighton. He was a man of 
 extreme wealth, one of those great 
 sheepowners whose flocks, according 
 to Sir Thomas More, “ consumed, 
 destroyed, and devoured whole fields, 
 houses, and cities. For their masters 
 . . . inclose all into pastures ; they 
 throw down houses, they pluck down 
 towns, and leave nothing standing 
 but only the church, to be made a 
 sheep-house.” — Utojpia. Brington and 
 Newbottle were also bought by this 
 Sir John Spencer, whose grandson, 
 another Sir John, seems to have been 
 the first planter of trees at Althorp 
 (see post , the park). Althorp was 
 not as yet the exclusive home of the 
 Spencers; and Sir Robert Spencer, 
 grandson of the second Sir John, was 
 created in 1603 (1st Jas. I.) Baron 
 Spencer (not of Althorp, but) of 
 Wormleighton. He had, however, 
 in the same year received at Althorp 
 (June 25th) Queen Anne of Denmark 
 and her son Prince Charles, in the 
 course of their first journey from 
 Scotland; and it was partly as a 
 return for the splendid hospitality 
 then displayed (see post, the park) 
 that Sir Robert received his peerage. 
 This first Lord Spencer lived much 
 at Wormleighton and at Althorp. 
 “ Like the old Roman dictator from 
 his farm,” says the scandal-loving 
 Wilson, “ Spencer made the countrey 
 a vertuous court, where his fields 
 and flocks brought him more calm 
 and happy contentment than the 
 various and mutable dispensations 
 of a court can contribute .” — Life of 
 Jas. I. He was once, says the same 
 writer, “ speaking something in the 
 house that their great ancestors did, 
 which displeased Lord Arundel, and 
 he cuts him off short, saying, 4 My 
 Lord, when these things you speak 
 
 of were doing, your ancestors were 
 keeping sheep ’ ” (twitting him with 
 his flocks, which he took delight in). 
 Spencer instantly replied, “ When 
 my ancestors, as you say, were keep- 
 ing sheep, your ancestors were plot- 
 ting treason !” For this and the 
 “heat” which it occasioned in the 
 house, Lord Arundel was sent to the 
 Tower, and at last had to make an 
 apology. (There is a local tradition 
 that this Lord Spencer, a great 
 sheep-master like his progenitor, 
 could never possess 20,000 sheep : a 
 mortality always attacked his flocks 
 between the 19th and 20th thou- 
 sand). Of the 2nd Lord Spencer, 
 who succeeded his father in 1627, 
 little is recorded. He died 1636. 
 His son, the 3rd Lord, was born at 
 Althorp, and was the first of his 
 family who made this place his prin- 
 cipal home. He married Dorothy 
 Sidney — Waller’s Sacharissa — dr. of 
 the 2nd E. of Leicester ; was created 
 Earl of Sunderland by Charles I. 
 (June 8th, 1643), and fell, aged 23, 
 in the battle of Newbury (Sept. 20) 
 in the same year. The zeal, courage, 
 and generosity of this 1st EL of 
 Sunderland are duly recorded by 
 Clarendon. His widow survived 
 him nearly 40 yrs., living for some 
 time “ retired ” at Althorp, where 
 her house “ was a sanctuary to the 
 loyal sufferers and learned clergy- 
 men.” She afterwards married 
 Robert Smythe, Chas. II.’s Go- 
 vernor of Dover Castle, and surviv- 
 ing him, was buried with her first 
 husband at Brington (see post). 
 During her widowhood at Althorp, 
 Charles L (June, 1647) was at Hol- 
 denby (see post) and came here to 
 play bowls. The 2nd E. of Sunder- 
 land was Ambassador to Madrid in 
 1671, and to Paris in 1674. He is 
 the “ unprincipled and faithless poli- 
 tician” who figures in Macaulay’s 
 History, “ constant through all the 
 vicissitudes of / his life to three 
 objects only, — to be safe, rich, and 
 great.” William III. visited him at 
 
Northants. Route 7. — Althorp : History. 159 
 
 Althorp in 1695, and “ all North- 
 amptonshire crowded to kiss the 
 royal hand in that fine gallery which 
 had been embellished by the pencil 
 of Vandyke, and made classical by 
 the Muse of Waller.” (This, how- 
 ever, only in so far as Waller has 
 celebrated “ Sacharissa”) The 2nd 
 Earl Spencer (d. 183d, aged 76) told 
 Dr. Dibdin that he had talked with 
 an old woman at Althorp who had a 
 perfect recollection of this visit, and 
 described the royal body-guard as she 
 saw them with their drawn swords 
 in the square before the house. In 
 1697 William was compelled to dis- 
 miss this his favourite minister, who 
 retired to Althorp, and died here in 
 1702. His wife was Anne, dr. and 
 heiress of George Digby, 2nd and 
 last E. of Bristol, and nearly as cele- 
 brated and remarkable as her lord. 
 <# Sure,” writes the Princess Anne to 
 her sister the Princess of Orange, 
 
 “ never was a couple so well matched 
 as she and her good husband; for 
 as she is throughout, in all her 
 actions, the greatest jade that ever 
 was, so he is the subtillest, work- 
 in gnest villain that is on the face 
 of the earth.” The lady professed 
 earnest religion, and her sincerity 
 has been doubted. She was greatly 
 disliked by her mother-in-law “Sa- 
 charissa ;” but, on the other hand, 
 Evelyn was her friend, and in his 
 memoirs he describes the admirable 
 order and economy of Althorp “ per- 
 fectly becoming a wise and noble 
 person.” She died in 1715. Charles, 
 3rd E. of Sunderland, was distin- 
 guished from his youth for his love 
 of learning, and collected books 
 “while,” says Macaulay, “other 
 heirs of noble houses were inspect- 
 ing patterns of steinkirks and sword- 
 knots, dangling after actresses, or 
 betting on fighting cocks.” He 
 married, 1st, a dr. of the D. of 
 Newcastle, and 2nd, Anne, dr. of 
 the 1st D. of Marlborough and the 
 famous Duchess Sarah. He died in ' 
 1722, having been an active politi- f 
 
 cian and statesman, Ld. Lieut, of 
 Ireland at one time, and Lord Pres, 
 and 1st Lord of the Treasury 1718- 
 19. His eldest surviving son be- 
 came at his death 4th E. of Sunder- 
 land; the next, Charles, owing to 
 the deaths in the Marlborough family, 
 became 2nd D. of Marlborough, and 
 also 5th E. of Sunderland, on the 
 death of his brother in 1729. But on 
 his accession in 1733 to the duke- 
 dom, the Althorp property passed to 
 his youngest brother John, the fa- 
 vourite grandson of Duchess Sarah, 
 still living and powerful. She deter- 
 mined that both branches of the 
 Spencer family should be wealthy; 
 and left, accordingly, very large 
 estates to John Spencer of Althorp, 
 from whom the Earldom of Sunder- 
 land and the other Spencer titles had 
 passed away. He died in 1746. His 
 eldest son was created Viscount and 
 Baron Spencer ; and in 1761, Earl 
 Spencer and Viscount Althorp. His 
 death occurred in 1783. His son, the 
 2nd Earl, was for some time ail 
 active statesman, but after 1807 aban- 
 doned public life, and became the 
 collector of the famous library. The 
 3rd Earl was the Lord Althorp of 
 the first Reform Bill. Frederick, 
 the 4th Earl, was Captain in the 
 Royal Navy. The present lord, who 
 is the 5th Earl, succeeded his father 
 in 1857. 
 
 These notices will better enable us 
 to understand the house and the por- 
 traits which it contains, as well as 
 the monuments in Brington Church. 
 Althorp is a large, but hardly an 
 imposing mansion. Mrs. Jameson 
 described it as “ having a look of 
 compactness and comfort without 
 pretension,” and perhaps this is as 
 much as can fairly be said for it. 
 The house was cased with a whitish 
 brick by the 2nd Earl, the collector 
 of the library ; one or two portions 
 have since been added ; and at pre- 
 sent (1877) Althorp is receiving a 
 considerable addition and embellish- 
 ment. The house has really grown 
 
160 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Route 7. — Althorp : Library. 
 
 out of that built by Sir John Spencer, 
 the great sheepowner, early in the 
 16th cent. It contains portions of 
 this date, and successive lords have 
 left their marks within and about it. 
 The great staircase, and probably 
 the picture gallery, remain as they 
 were planned by “ Sacharissa” (1st 
 Countess of Sunderland) during her 
 widowhood. In order to make them 
 she inclosed the inner court of the 
 Tudor house ; and Evelyn, after one 
 of his visits to Sacharissa’s dr. -in- 
 law (see ante), describes Althorp as 
 “ a noble, uniform pile, in the shape 
 of a half H . . . The hall is well, the 
 staircase excellent ; the rooms of 
 state, galleries, offices, and furniture, 
 such as may become a great prince.” 
 The house is also noticed (1669) in 
 the Travels of Cosmo, afterwards 
 Grand D. of Tuscany, as “ the best 
 planned and best arranged country- 
 seat in the kingdom; for though 
 there may be many which surpass it 
 in size, none are superior to it in 
 symmetrical elegance.” 
 
 The Library , which may first be 
 noticed, contains about 50,000 vo- 
 lumes. The books are lodged in one 
 great apartment, and in a series of 
 rooms opening one into another on 
 the ground -floor of the mansion, 
 thoroughly comfortable and in daily 
 use. Here and there a portrait or 
 some picture of unusual excellence 
 breaks the line of the cases. All 
 the books are richly and appropri- 
 ately habited, and cast what Dibdin 
 well calls a “heart-warming glow” 
 throughout the long range of apart- 
 ments — so long that, as the same 
 ingenious writer suggests, “ a Shet- 
 land pony might be conveniently 
 kept, in ready caparison, to carry 
 the more delicate visitor from one 
 extremity to another.” The first 
 Spencerian library (that collected by 
 the 3rd Earl of Sunderland, see ante) 
 passed to Blenheim, and became the I 
 foundation of the collection there. ' 
 It had been pledged to the duke, the 
 father-in-law of Lord Spencer (as he t 
 
 then was) for 10,000?.; and when 
 the 2nd Earl Spencer began to form 
 his library, he found nothing at Al- 
 thorp beyond the ordinary book col- 
 lection of a large country house. How 
 the “ bokes ” were gathered ; how 
 part of the great library of President 
 de Thou found its way to Spencer 
 House; how treasure after treasure 
 — tall copies, uncut copies, unique 
 copies — passed day by day into this 
 vast assemblage ; how Charles Lewis 
 was busied day and night in retouch- 
 ing old bindings, and in decorating 
 the rare tomes of Caxton and Wynkyn 
 de Worde with the choicest speci- 
 mens of “ bibliopegistic ” art — all 
 this may be read in the pages of Lib- 
 din ( Bibliotheca Spenceriana , 4 vols., 
 and JEdes Althorpianx , 2 vols., 
 1822). Many of the rarer books re- 
 mained for a long time at Spencer 
 House in St. James’s Place ; but all 
 have now been assembled at Al- 
 thorp. It is of course impossible to 
 discuss or even to notice here the 
 treasures of such a collection as no 
 other chateau in the world can show. 
 The history and development of the 
 “ars impressoria ’’ is perhaps no- 
 where else to be followed so clearly. 
 One room, of which the dimensions 
 are by no means small, is devoted to 
 books printed before 1500. Here the 
 long rows of Caxtons, Pynsons, and 
 de Wordes “ bend the groaning 
 shelves,” and strike the most hard- 
 ened collector with wonder. Here, 
 too, is the celebrated Valdarfer Boc- 
 caccio, bought by the Marquis of 
 Blandford at the Roxburgh sale for 
 2260?. — the largest sum ever given 
 for a single volume, or, indeed, for 
 any book except the Mazarine Bible, 
 in 2 vols., which at the sale of the 
 Perkins library in June 1873, 
 brought 2690?. The great sum 
 given by Lord Blandford for the 
 Boccaccio was owing to the zeal of 
 I his rival, Lord Spencer ; who subse- 
 ' quently acquired the precious volume 
 for the comparatively moderate price 
 t of 918?. The book is in the finest 
 
Nokthants. 
 
 Route 7. — Althorp: Pictures. 
 
 161 
 
 condition, bound by Ch. Lewis in 
 green morocco, sprinkled with gold 
 ornaments, and bearing the arms of 
 the Duke of Roxburgh and of I .ord 
 Spencer. This, and the other trea- 
 sures of the “ old book room,” as it is 
 called, are more carefully protected 
 than the rest of the library. Bat 
 there is a general rule that no book 
 may be taken down save by the libra- 
 rian, who is assisted by an excellent 
 catalogue, in many small volumes, 
 arranged in a cabinet. Each book 
 there entered has its number, refer- 
 ring to a large general volume, which 
 gives its situation in the library, so 
 that it can be found at once. 
 
 Pictures and Portraits are scat- 
 tered through all the rooms at Al- 
 thorp; but the most important (of 
 the latter at least) are assembled on 
 the staircase (which, as Evelyn wrote, 
 is really “excellent”) and in the 
 long gallery already mentioned ; 
 *‘one of those enchanted scenes” 
 writes Walpole ( Anec . of Painting) 
 “ which a thousand circumstances of 
 history and art endear to a pensive 
 spectator.” Of all these a fuller 
 account must be given. Considera- 
 ble changes and repairs are, however, 
 in progress (1877) at Althorp, which 
 may probably render necessary a 
 new arrangement of the pictures; 
 and it will therefore be most conve- 
 nient to describe the more important 
 of them here under the names of 
 the several painters. The Vandyclcs , 
 the Knellers , the Lelys , and the Rey- 
 nolds portraits call for special atten- 
 tion. The principal pictures are 
 marked with an *. It may first be 
 noticed, however, that in the hall are 
 several hunting pieces by John Woot- 
 ton (circ. 1730), a once famous painter 
 of horses and dogs. Among the 
 figures appears conspicuously Chas., 
 the 2nd Duke of Marlborough, who 
 was then the owner of Althorp. A 
 horse and a dog by Stubbs, are better 
 pictures. 
 
 *Angosciola (Sophonisba) ; portrait 
 of herself, seated at a clavichord ; 
 
 a duenna at the side. This pic- 
 ture was bought by the famous 
 Sarah, Duchess of Marlborough, for 
 700 guineas— a great price at that 
 time. On the picture is the inscrip- 
 tion Jussu Patris. There are few of 
 her works in England. At Wilton 
 is a “ Marriage of St. Catherine ” by 
 her, and there is a portrait at Burgh- 
 ley (see Rte. 3). She went to Madrid 
 on the invitation of Philip II. Born 
 at Cremona, 1533 ; d. 1626. This 
 picture, says Waagen, is “carefully 
 painted in a delicate tone, with a 
 refined feeling for nature.” Asselyn ; 
 two very good landscapes. 
 
 Bardwell (Thomas, d. 1773) ; John, 
 1st Earl Spencer, aged 15. Baroccio; 
 The Nativity. “A small but very 
 choice picture of the master.” — 
 Waagen. Fra Bartolomeo; Virgin 
 and Child. Bassano (Giacomo) ; 
 Miracle of the Loaves and Fishes; 
 Flagellation of Our Lord ; Expulsion 
 of the Money Changers; Our Lord 
 bearing His Cross. Battoni (Pom- 
 peo) ; Portrait of Georgiana, Countess 
 Spencer (painted at Rome, 1763). 
 Beale (Mary, bom 1632, d. 1697) ; 
 Portraits of Lady Howard of Escrick, 
 Countess of Shrewsbury, whose hus- 
 band fell in a duel with the 2nd D. 
 of Buckingham, while Lady Shrews- 
 bury, disguised as a page, held the 
 Duke’s horse; Cowley the poet; Ot- 
 way ; Frances Jennings, Duchess of 
 Tyrconnel, and sister of Sarah, D. 
 of Marlborough ; Nell Gwynne ; and 
 Catherine Sedley, Mistress of Jas. 
 II., who created her Countess of Dor- 
 chester. Berghem ; Landscape. Bol 
 ( Ferdinand ) ; Hugo Grotius when a 
 boy. Borgonogne ; a large battle- 
 piece. Bourdon (Sebastian) ; De- 
 scent from the Cross. Le Brun 
 (Charles) ; Crucifixion of St. Andrew. 
 
 Bruyn (Bartholomew) ; An altar- 
 piece with doors; an excellent pic- 
 ture, here wrongly assigned to Albert 
 Durer. 
 
 Garacci (Agostino) ; a girl with 
 kittens. Garacci (Annibale) ; Virgin 
 and Child, with two Saints. Garacci 
 
162 
 
 Boute 7. — Althorp: Pictures . 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 (Lodovico); The Tribute Money; a 
 School Mistress. * Champagne (Pliil- 
 lippe de) ; Portrait of Robert Arnaud 
 d’Andilly, one of the Port .Royalists. 
 Claude de Lorraine ; a sea-port ; a 
 landscape. *Cleeve (Joas van, born 
 1500, d. 1536); his own portrait: 
 
 “ Very masterly. We cannot blame 
 him for feeling hurt that Sir A. More 
 was preferred to him.” — Waagen. 
 Copley (John Singleton); Portrait 
 of George John, 2nd Earl Spencer, 
 d. 1834. Under his administration, 
 as 1st Lord of the Admiralty, were 
 won the victories of Cape St. Vin- 
 cent, Camperdown, and the Nile. 
 He was the collector of the great 
 Spencer Library. *Cuyp (Albert); 
 a calm. This very beautiful picture 
 belonged to Duchess Sarah. 
 
 Dahl (Michael, born 1656, d. 
 1743) ; Portraits of Queen Anne 
 and her son, the D. of Gloucester; 
 Mary, wife of Sir Richard Spencer, 
 and her son, Sir John Spencer of 
 Offley ; another of Sir John Spen- 
 cer ; Sir Brocket Spencer ; his wife, 
 Lady Spencer ; and Sir Richard 
 Spencer of Offley. Dance (Na- 
 thaniel) ; Earl of Jersey. Dobson 
 (William, born 1610, d. 1646) ; Por- 
 traits of Col. John Russell, brother 
 of the 1st D. of Bedford; the artist 
 himself; and Margaret Lemon, mis- 
 tress of Vandyck. \Dolce (Carlo); 
 Marriage of St. Catherine, “Very 
 delicately executed/’ — Waagen. Do- 
 menichino ; a Magdalen ; St. Charles 
 Borromeo celebrating Mass. 
 
 Everdingen (Albert van) ; four cir- 
 cular landscapes. 
 
 Fleshier ; Portraits of Lucy Barlow 
 or Walters, mother of the Duke of 
 Monmouth and Charlotte De la Tre- 
 morville, Countess of Derby, the de- 
 fendress of Lathom House. 
 
 Gainsborough (bom 1727, d. 1788) ; 
 Portraits of *Georgiana, Duchess of 
 Devonshire, d. 1806; dr. of John, 
 1st Earl Spencer; William Poyntz 
 of Midgham, brother of Georgiana 
 Poyntz, wife of IstE. Spencer; John, 
 1st Earl Spencer; Georgina Spen- 
 
 cer, aged 6, afterwards D. of Devon- 
 shire; and Georgina (Poyntz), 1st 
 Countess Spencer. Earl (then Mr.) 
 Spencer married Miss Poyntz pri- 
 vately at Althorp, the day after he 
 came of age, Dec. 1755. “ After tea, 
 the parties necessary for the wedding 
 stole by degrees from the company, 
 into Lady Cowper’s dressing-room, 
 where the ceremony was performed ; 
 and they returned different ways to 
 the company again, and joined danc- 
 ing with them.”) 
 
 Gentileschi (Artemisia, d. 1642) ; 
 Portrait of herself. Garrard (Mark, 
 b. 1560, d. 1635) ; Portraits of the 
 *lst Baron Spencer, of Wormleighton 
 and Althorp, d. 1627 (see ante). He 
 wears his peer’s robes. Margaret, 
 Lady Spencer, d. 1597 ; King 
 James I. Guercino ; St. Sebastian ; 
 *St. Luke painting the Virgin. 
 
 Hals (Frank) ; Portrait of himself. 
 Hanneman (Adrian) ; Portrait of 
 Princess Mary, dr. of Ch. I. Eayter 
 (Sir George) ; Viscount Althorp, 
 afterward 3rd Earl Spencer — the 
 Lord Althorp of the Reform Bill. 
 Heere (Lucas de); *Lady Jane Grey, 
 perhaps the only existing portrait. 
 Hogarth ; View in the Green Park, 
 1760. Holbein (b. 1498, d. 1554); 
 Portraits of John Calvin (bought at 
 the sale at Stowe in 1848) ; Himself ; 
 *Hen. VIII., Princess Mary, and 
 Will Somers, the Jester. This is 
 pronounced by Waagen, “a coarse 
 copy from Holbein.” The King and 
 Princess are seated before a table 
 covered with an Eastern carpet, Will 
 Somers, standing behind, holds the 
 Princess’s pet dog. *Henry VHI. 
 (so-called, but Waagen suggests that 
 it does not represent the king. It is, 
 he adds, “ finished like a miniature 
 .... with the most refined truth of 
 nature.”) Hudson (born 1701, d. 
 1779 ; master of Reynolds) ; Lady 
 Georgiana Spencer ; John, Earl 
 Granville ; Countess Granville ; Ste- 
 phen Poyntz of Midgham. 
 
 Janet (Francis); *Franci3, 2nd 
 K. of France, as a boy ; Mary of 
 
Northants. 
 
 Route 7. — Althorp : Pictures . 
 
 163 
 
 Scotland as his wife. (The latter is 
 a doubtful repres. of Mary). Janssen 
 (Cornelius) ; ^Portrait of Sir Kenelm 
 Digby, d. 1665 (to the knees, in black 
 dress, with rich falling ruff and 
 cuffs. This picture was, it is said, 
 greatly admired by Sir J. Reynolds). 
 
 Kauffman (Angelica) ; Children 
 of John, 1st Earl Spencer; Margaret, 
 Countess of Lucan. Kneller (Sir 
 Godfrey, b. 1648, d. 1723). There are 
 here 15 portraits by Kneller, of which 
 the most interesting are those of the 
 famous Sarah Jennings, Duchess of 
 Marlborough, of her children, and 
 relatives. There are *4 portraits of 
 the Duchess, one of which shows her 
 in youthful beauty ; *one of her 
 mother, Mrs. Jennings, with none of 
 her daughter’s good looks ; one of 
 John, Marquis of Blandford, only son 
 of the great Duke of Marlborough, 
 who died when at Cambridge of the 
 small-pox ; Henrietta and Anne 
 Churchill, drs. of the Duke and 
 Duchess ; and another of Lady Anne, 
 who married Charles, 3rd Earl of 
 Sunderland (see ante). Other Knel- 
 ler portraits are those of himself, of 
 Addison, and of Hortense Mancini, 
 Duchesse de Mazarin. 
 
 Lely (Sir Peter, b. 1617, d. 1680). 
 Here are 32 portraits by Lely, in- 
 cluding some of the most noticeable 
 of the Ch. II. and Grammont beau- 
 ties. Among them are Anne Hyde, 
 Duchess of York, mother of Queen 
 Anne ; * Anne, 2nd Countess of Sun- 
 derland (the friend of Evelyn and 
 wife of Wm., 3rd Earl of Sunderland, 
 see ante); Sir Peter Lely himself; 
 * Barbara, Lady Castlemaine, created 
 by Ch. II. Duchess of Cleveland— 
 as a shepherdess with a crook. Bur- 
 net describes her as “ enormously 
 vicious and ravenous.’’ She was 
 Clarendon’s great enemy ; * Com- 
 tesse de Grammont, sister of the 
 famous Count Hamilton — she lived 
 sans reproche at the courts of Ch. II. 
 and Louis XI Y. ; * Nell Gwynne, 
 a very striking picture, with a forest 
 background ; * the Duchess of Ports- 
 
 mouth, the famous Louise de Que- 
 rouaille, the most constant, favoured, 
 and costly of the mistresses of Ch. II. 
 Evelyn notices her as “ that famous 
 beauty, but, in my opinion, of a 
 childish, simple, and baby face” — 
 which judgment this portrait sup- 
 ports. The background is especially 
 good ; * Lady Denham, the beau- 
 tiful Miss Brooks, Lady of the bed- 
 chamber to the Duchess of York ; 
 
 * Mrs. Middleton, “ La Middleton, 
 bien faite, blonde, et blanche,” one 
 of the early favourites of Count 
 H. de Grammont, who thus describes 
 her ; Henry Sydney, E. of Romney, 
 with greyhounds — one of the six 
 who signed the invitation to William 
 of Orange ; Queen Mary of Modena ; 
 Charles II. ; * Algernon Sydney ; 
 Anthony, E. of Shaftesbury. 
 
 Mirevelt ; Portrait of Fred. Henry 
 of Orange, father of Wm. HI. ; 
 Maurice of Orange. More ( Sir An- 
 tony, b. 1519, d. 1576) ; * Philip II. 
 of Spain, in golden armour. “ A 
 picture of great delicacy.” — Waagen. 
 
 * His own portrait, in black dress, 
 
 his hand on the head of a dog. To 
 the knees. Mytens ; Henry, Earl of 
 Southampton, d. 1624 — the patron of 
 Shakespeare. Mignard ; * Duchesse 
 de Montansier ; “ one of his most 
 
 pleasing and most finished pictures.” 
 
 Murillo ; Portrait of a girl, said to 
 be an Infanta of Spain. *Por trait of 
 himself. 
 
 Orlay (Bernard van) ; * Anne of 
 Cleves. “ Very cleverly painted.” 
 — Waagen. 
 
 Parmegiano ; The Annunciation. 
 Phillips (b. 1770, d. 1825); portrait 
 of Thomas Grenville; Charles, 2nd 
 Earl Grey ; George John, 2nd Earl 
 Spencer, the Collector of the Li- 
 brary. Pine; Georgiana, Duchess 
 of Devonshire, aged 16. Piombo 
 (Sebastiano del) ; portraits of Mi- 
 chael Angelo and Giulio Romano. 
 Poelemburg (Cornelius) ; * a masked 
 ball. Pourbus (Francis, the younger). 
 
 * Portrait, here called that of Henry 
 Duke of Guise, “ le Balafre.” Whole- 
 
164 
 
 Route 7 —Althorp: Pictures . 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 length, size of life. “ This capital 
 picture, which is warm in colouring 
 and animated in conception, is cer- 
 tainly that of the son of that Duke, 
 since Pourbus did not go to France 
 till after the death of the Balafre .” 
 Poussin (Gaspar) ; a small land- 
 scape. 
 
 Baffaelle ; * A fragment of the 
 cartoon of the Murder of the Inno- 
 cents. “It contains the upper por- 
 tion of the figure of the woman in 
 one of the Vatican tapestries, who, 
 full of horror, is running up a flight 
 of steps. . . . This is without doubt 
 a piece of the original cartoon.” — 
 Waagen. * A copy, on panel, of a 
 Holy Family now in the Naples 
 Gallery. Waagen suggests that this 
 is the copy which, according to 
 Vasari, was executed by Innocenzo 
 da Imola. The treatment and 
 warm tone are quite his.” j Rem- 
 brandt ; * The Circumcision ; in- 
 
 scribed, and dated 1661. “Very 
 spirited, and of striking effect.” 
 
 * Rembrandt’s mother ; seated, in 
 rich dress; to the knees, life size. 
 “ The light reddish tone of the flesh, 
 and the very finished execution, indi- 
 cate the early period of the master.” 
 — W. *William III. as a boy, — a 
 curious picture (unfinished). ^Por- 
 trait of himself. Beynolds (Sir Joshua, 
 b. 1723, d. 1792). There are 19 por- 
 traits by Reynolds. The most notice- 
 able are — Georgiana, 1st Countess 
 Spencer, with her dr., afterwards 
 Duchess of Devonshire; * Frances, 
 1st Marchioness Camden — dr. and 
 heiress of Wm. Molesworth of Wem- 
 bury, Devon — a very graceful pic- 
 ture. * George John, 2nd Earl 
 Spencer, when Lord Althorp, aged 
 17 ; and his son, the Lord Althorp 
 of the Reform Bill, aged 4. 
 
 * Georgiana, Duchess of Devonshire ; 
 full-length, descending a garden 
 “ escalier .” This is the rival of the 
 portrait of the same Duchess by 
 Gainsborough. Duke of Devon- 
 shire, husband of Duchess Georgi- 
 ana. Angelica Kauffman (oval). 
 
 His own portrait ; and Sir William 
 Jones, the Orientalist. (Sir William 
 was for five years the tutor of the 2nd 
 Earl Spencer, who formed the library. 
 His mother, when entrusting her son 
 to the care of (then) Mr. Jones, said, 
 u Make him, if you can, like yourself.” 
 Bichardson ; Portrait of the 3rd Earl 
 of Sunderland and the 5th Earl, who 
 became D. of Marlborough. Bomney ; 
 Countess of Cork. Bubens ; *The 
 thank-offering of David on the re- 
 turn of the Ark. Designed for tapes- 
 try. “ This sketch for a very rich 
 composition of the master’s earlier 
 period is in every respect one of the 
 most skilful by him that I am ac- 
 quainted with.” — Waagen. * The 
 Infante Don Ferdinand, Governor of 
 the Netherlands, in the dress of a 
 Cardinal. ^Portrait of Vandyck. 
 
 Teniers (David, the younger) ; 
 2 small pictures of peasant life. 
 Pictures “ in the taste of the school 
 of the Carracci,” the best of which 
 is the * Death of Leander (twice 
 given. The larger picture is that 
 referred to). Titian. There seems 
 to be here no true picture by Titian. 
 Two assigned to him — a young 
 woman, and Titian holding a mirror 
 to a lady (differing from the Louvre 
 picture) — are given by Waagen to 
 Paris Bordone. 
 
 Vaga (Perino del, b. 1500, d. 1547) ; 
 * Portrait of Cardinal Pole; white 
 beard, white dress, black collar and 
 cap., seated ; to the knees. “ The 
 expressive character is strongly con- 
 ceived.” — Waagen. Vandyck. There 
 are 21 pictures assigned to this 
 master. The finest is * George 
 Digby, 2nd Earl of Bristol, and 
 William, Earl, and afterwards 1st 
 Duke, of Bedford ; both as youths. 
 Whole-length figures, life size. 
 This is a celebrated picture, and 
 one of the noblest Vandycks in this 
 country. The copy at Woburn is 
 by Knapton. * Portrait of Rubens 
 in a black dress ; size of life, stand- 
 ing. Inscribed, “ Ant. Vandyck 
 Eques Pt.” “ A very elegant pic- 
 
Northants. Route 7 .—Althorp : Gardens . 
 
 1G5 
 
 ture.” — Waagen. Other portraits 
 to be noticed are — Penelope Wrio- 
 thesley, Countess Spencer, whole- 
 length, walking, in blue dress ; 
 Anne Carr, Countess of Bedford, 
 red dress, to the knees ; Lady Eliz. 
 Thimbleby, and Cath. Countess of 
 Rivers— the latter receiving a basket 
 of flowers from a Cupid ; * William 
 Cavendish, Duke of Newcastle ; 
 and Rachel Ruvigny, Countess of 
 Southampton “in a kind of apo- 
 theosis.” Remark also a picture of 
 “ Daedalus and Icarus.” Vansomer ; 
 Portraits of Sir Richard and Lady 
 Spencer of Offley. 
 
 Walker. Portraits of General 
 Lambert ; Ch. II. as a boy ; Crom- 
 well ; Sir Thomas Fairfax ; and 
 Henry, 1st E. of Sunderland. 
 
 Zucchero. To him are assigned 
 the portraits of Mary of Scotland, 
 and of her husband Darnley. 
 
 Among many portraits by unknown 
 artists , one of the most interesting 
 hangs at the top of the staircase, and 
 represents the great D. of Marlborough 
 in comparative youth. It is said 
 to have been the favourite portrait 
 of the Duchess, who, having before 
 had her husband painted as the 
 “ handsomest fair man in England,” 
 arranged that this should represent 
 him as the handsomest “brown” 
 man. There is, in the Long 
 Gallery, a copy by Raeburn of a 
 portrait of Edmund Spenser, author 
 of the 4 Faerie Queen.’ The original 
 is at Dupplin Castle. The poet 
 belonged (though distantly) to this 
 family ; 44 1 exhort them,” writes 
 Gibbon, 44 to consider the * Fairy 
 Queen’ as the most precious jewel 
 of their coronet.” *An antique 
 encaustic painting should also be 
 noticed, “ found on the wall of a 
 sepulchral chamber near Beneven- 
 tum, and cut from it in the presence 
 of Georgiana, Countess Dowager 
 Spencer, in 1793.” The subject is 
 a boy’s head. There is at Althorp a 
 large collection of original Minia- 
 tures, some by Petitot ; and of minia- 
 
 ture copies, by Bone, Essex, and 
 others. There are many drawings 
 by Edridge ; and a series of chalk 
 portraits, representing all the mem- 
 bers of the H. of Commons who 
 voted for the first Reform Bill. The 
 house also contains a large and fine 
 collection of china. 
 
 The gardens are good, but of no 
 special character or importance. 
 Evelyn described them as, in his 
 day, “admirable and magnificent, 
 furnished with the choicest fruit, 
 and exquisitely kept. G reate plenty 
 of oranges, and other curiosities.” 
 The flower garden at the side of the 
 house occupies the site of a bowling 
 green, on which King Charles, who 
 was in the habit of riding over from 
 Holdenby, was playing, when news 
 was brought that a party of horse, 
 “obscurely headed,” was in sight; 
 and the king instantly returned to 
 Holdenby to fall into the power of 
 Cornet Joyce (see Holdenby, post). 
 There was, when Evelyn wrote, “ a 
 prospect from the park to Holmby 
 (Holdenby) house, which, being 
 demolished in the late civil wars, 
 shows like a Roman ruin, shaded by 
 the trees about it, a stately, solemn, 
 and pleasing view.” This view has 
 been shut out by the woods of suc- 
 cessive planters, who have in most 
 instances recorded the date of their 
 work by tablets and inscriptions, 
 “the only instance,” says Evelyn, 
 “ I know of the like in our country.” 
 The earliest dates are 1567 and 
 1568; and a long walk toward 
 Brington Church leads through a 
 wood planted by Sir William Spen- 
 cer in 1624. On the reverse of the 
 stone which records this are the 
 words “ Up and bee doing, and God 
 will prosper.” It is interesting to 
 compare the size and growth of the 
 trees with the dates at which we 
 thus know they were planted. They 
 are for the most part beech and 
 elm; but many venerable oaks, 
 older than the first recorded date 
 of planting, shade the higher part 
 
166 
 
 Route 7 . — Northampton to Rugby , % Road . Sect. I. 
 
 of the ground about the church of 
 Brington . The park is thus through- 
 out varied and well wooded. In it 
 rises a picturesque hawking stand , 
 built by the first Baron Spencer, 
 with a range of round-headed win- 
 dows in the upper story, and the 
 arms of James I. in the gable. It 
 has been somewhat modernised, but 
 is still worth a visit. In the park 
 (the exact spot is not known) Anne 
 of Denmark and the Prince were 
 received on their entry with a 
 masque written by Ben Jonson. 
 Fairies danced in a ring; and a 
 satyr, after “ a short straine with 
 his pipe,” advanced, gazing on the 
 Queen and Prince, and exclaimed — 
 
 a That is Cyparissns face ! 
 
 And the Dame hath Syrinx grace ! 
 
 0 that Pan were now in place ! 
 
 Sure they are of heavenlie race.” 
 
 The queen proceeded from Althorp 
 to Easton Neston (see Bte. 5), where 
 she was joined by King James, who 
 came to meet her from London. 
 
 The Church of Great Brington 
 stands high on the hill, close out- 
 side the park, and the ch.-yd. com- 
 mands a very interesting and pic- 
 turesque view over the S. and S.W. 
 districts of Northamptonshire — a 
 country far more broken and wooded 
 than the valley of the Nen and its 
 borders. From the ch.-yd. there is 
 a sudden descent to the N. The 
 tower, aisles, arcade of nave, and 
 font are all E. Eng., dating from the 
 last quarter of the 13th cent. The 
 piers on the S. side of the nave are 
 octagonal ; but each side is hollowed, 
 so that they resemble fluted columns. 
 Some Perp. windows have been in- 
 serted in the aisles and tower. The 
 clerestory of nave, the chancel, and 
 the N. chapel, are all late Perp., and 
 were built by Sir John Spencer (the 
 first Spencer owner), who died in 
 1522. The work for this period is 
 extremely good, and there is a tradi- 
 tion that all this Perp. work was 
 designed by the architect of Hen. 
 
 VII.’s Chapel at Westminster. A 
 bay of 5 sides, with a long window 
 in each, was added in 1 846 by the 
 4th Earl Spencer, “ to the memory of 
 his father, mother, and brother ” (the 
 2nd Earl and wife, and the 3rd Earl), 
 and here the architecture was directly 
 copied from Hen. VII.’s Chapel. Many 
 of the original open seats (circ. 1450) 
 remain in the nave ,* and in a window 
 on the S. side of the chancel is a fine 
 fragment of Perp. glass, representing 
 the Baptist with the Holy Lamb. 
 The altar rails are of the 17th cent. 
 (Laudian) ; and there is a tradition 
 that Charles I., when at Holdenby, 
 received the Holy Communion here, 
 kneeling at the N. side. On the S. 
 side of the nave is an external monu- 
 mental arch, with canopy, and the 
 effigy of an ecclesiastic, possibly 
 that of William de Grendon, a rector 
 who died in 1275, and who may 
 have assisted in the building of the 
 E. Eng. church. The church, as 
 might have been expected, is espe- 
 cially rich in Spencer monuments , 
 all of which deserve attention. 
 They are in the North, or Spencer 
 Chapel. (1) The earliest (at the E. 
 end, under arch), that of Sir John 
 Spencer, d. 1522, and his wife, 
 Isabella Graunt, is late, but pure 
 Perp., with a very rich canopy, and 
 effigies on an altar-tomb. He is in 
 plate-armour, bare-headed, with a 
 tabard charged with the Spencer 
 arms, and an outer robe of scarlet 
 lined with green. She wears the 
 reticulated head-dress. On the can- 
 opy, and in the panels, there is a 
 great display of heraldry. (2) A 
 plain altar-tomb against the N. wall 
 (without effigies), for Sir Wm. Spen- 
 cer (son of the former) and wife. He 
 died 1532. (3) Under the central 
 arch, the elaborate monument of Sir 
 John Spencer, d. 1586, and wife, 
 Katherine, dr. of Sir Thomas Kitson 
 of Hengrave. Here all Gothic has 
 been swept away. The design is 
 Elizabethan, witli a pyramidal pillar 
 at eacd angle of the tomb, an enta- 
 
Nobthants. 
 
 'Route 7 . — Brington Church. 
 
 167 
 
 blature loaded with heraldry, and a 
 moorhen, one of the ancient crests 
 of Spencer, at one end. He is in 
 plate-armour, with a raff ; she has 
 an enormous hollow hood raised over 
 her head, and is further accommo- 
 dated with a kind of coverlet, rolled 
 down to her waist. (4) In front of the 
 north-east window repose Sir John 
 Spencer, d. 1599, and wife, Mary 
 Gatlin. The design is somewhat less 
 elaborate. The lady, in black, has 
 also a large fluted hood. (5) Under 
 the western arch are the effigies of 
 Robert, first Baron Spencer, d. 1627, 
 and his wife, Margaret, dr. of Sir 
 Francis Willoughby of Wollaton. 
 He is in a rich suit of plate-armour, 
 with helmet plumed and the visor 
 up. The lady has a hood consider- 
 ably larger than those of the earlier 
 effigies, and is covered with an 
 heraldic counterpane. (There is a 
 tradition that this well-protected 
 dame was the “ inventress of board 
 wages.”) The canopy of the monu- 
 ment should be noticed. (6) Opposite 
 is a monument of black-and-white 
 marble, for the 2nd Baron Spencer, 
 d. 1636, and wife, Penelope Wriothes- 
 ley, dr. of the 3rd E. of Southampton. 
 This is by Nicholas Stone, and cost 
 600Z., the largest sum received by him 
 for any of his works. The effigies, 
 however, were by his workmen, Har- 
 grave and White, who got respectively 
 14Z. and 15Z. The baron is in robes of 
 state ; the lady richly dressed, with 
 veil and ermine mantle. (7) In the 
 S.E. angle of the chapel is a monu- 
 ment for Sir Edward Spencer, young- 
 est son of Robt. Baron S., who died 
 in 1655. His bust, in plate-armour 
 with a curious allegorical design, 
 rises out of an inscribed urn. (8) 
 Against the E. window (built up) is 
 a mont. for John, 1st Earl Spencer, 
 d. 1783. This is by Nollekens , from 
 a design by Cipriani, and represents 
 Benevolence “standing in the 
 clouds,” and suspending a medallion 
 with a profile. The verses beneath 
 are by Lord Spencer’s son-in-law, the 
 
 D. of Devonshire. Below is a beau- 
 tiful design by Flaxman , a memorial 
 of Georgiana, wife of the 1st Earl, 
 d. 1814. There are figures of Faith 
 and Charity, and an inscription from 
 Froverbs , “She spreadeth out her 
 hands to the poor.” In the windows 
 of the bay, erected by the 4th Earl 
 in 1846, are medallions of the 2nd 
 Earl, George John, founder of the 
 library, and of the 3rd Earl, John 
 Charles, the Lord Althorp of the 
 Reform Bill. Below is a brass with 
 inscription for the 4th Earl. Frederick, 
 and a bust of Sir Robert Spencer, by 
 Chantrey. The heart of the 1 st Earl of 
 Sunderland, who fell at Newbury, was 
 brought here, and his widow, Waller’s 
 Sacharissa, was buried in this church, 
 but there is no memorial for either 
 earl or countess. The whole series 
 of monuments illustrates in a very 
 remarkable manner the changes in 
 the art and fashion of such memo- 
 rials from the time of the first Sir 
 John Spencer to that of the present 
 earl. 
 
 Two records of the Washingtons 
 must be noticed before leaving the 
 church. In the chancel is a slab for 
 Lawrence Washington, d. 1616, —the 
 great great grandfather of George 
 Washington. This Lawrence Wash- 
 ington, with his father, came to 
 Brington from Sulgrave (see Rte. 6), 
 and his 2nd son, John, emigrated to 
 America. On the tomb slab here are 
 the lines, — 
 
 " Thou that by chance or choyce of this hath 
 sight, 
 
 Know life to death resigns as day to night ; 
 
 But as the sunns retorne revives the day. 
 
 So Christ shall us though turned to dust 
 and clay.” 
 
 In the nave is a slab with inscrip- 
 tion for “ Eliz. Washington, widowe,” 
 1522, and Robert W., “ her late hus- 
 band,” d. 1622, “after they lived 
 lovingly together many yeares in this 
 parish,” This Robert Washington 
 (father of Lawrence, who died before 
 him) was 2nd son of Robt. W. of 
 Sulgrave. The arms of Washington, 
 
168 
 
 Boute 7 . — Northampton to Bugby , by Bead . Sect. T. 
 
 with their “stars and stripes,” are 
 noticed in Rte. 6 ( Sulgrave ). A 
 
 house in the village of Little Bring- 
 ton is pointed out as that occupied 
 by the Washingtons. 
 
 The picturesque and excellent 
 rectory was built, circ. 1829, from the 
 designs of Edward Blore. The 
 modern chapel of St. John at Little 
 Brington is by Hardwiche , and is 
 good. There is another portion of 
 the parish known as Newbottle (botl., 
 = a dwelling-place, A.S.), a name 
 which must have been given in dis- 
 tinction from the “ Old thorp ” 
 (Althorp) adjoining. For some un- 
 known reason, Newbottle wood or 
 tc grove ” gives name to the hundred.' 
 
 Returning to the main road, at a 
 distance of \ m. beyond Althorp, a 
 road turns rt. to (1 m.) Holdenby 
 (generally called Holmby ), the old 
 manor-house of which place was, as 
 we have seen, at one time visible 
 from Althorp. It is of great interest, 
 both as an example of Elizabethan 
 domestic architecture (although half 
 ruined and half restored), and as the 
 place where Charles I. passed into 
 the hands of Cornet Joyce. The site, 
 too, is one of great beauty. “ The 
 slope of Ihe ground, which declines 
 from it on all sides, offers a succes- 
 sion of the richest and most pastoral 
 views. . . . Like the rolling prairie 
 of the far West, valley after valley of 
 sunny meadows, dotted with oak and 
 elm, undulates in ceaseless variety 
 far as the eye can reach ; but unlike 
 the boundless prairie, deep dark 
 copses and thick luxuriant hedgerows 
 . . . diversify the foreground and 
 blend the distance into a mass of 
 woodland beauty.” — Whyte Melville 
 (who in his story of 4 Holmby House * 
 has illustrated all this country). 
 
 Holdenby (Aldenhesbi in Domes- 
 day) was held from the beginning: of 
 the 13th cent, by a family which 
 took its name from the place. It 
 passed out of the male line early 
 in the 16th cent., and then came, 
 
 through Elizabeth Holdenby, to the 
 Hattons, one of whom she had 
 married. Sir Christopher Hatton, 
 Elizabeth’s Lord Chancellor, was 
 born here in 1510, and Holdenby 
 became his on the death of his elder 
 brother. His representative, another 
 Sir Christopher, sold Holdenby 
 (1607) to the King, James I., with 
 remainder to Charles, his 2nd son. 
 Daring the civil war the place was 
 seized by the Parliament in common 
 with other royal estates, and much 
 injury, it is asserted, was done at this 
 time to the woods. It was then sold 
 to one Adam Baynes, of Knowsthorp, 
 in Yorksh., who devastated what had 
 been left of the woods, and pulled 
 down the main house, leaving only 
 gateways and a portion of the offices. 
 The crown lands were resumed at the 
 Restoration, and Charles If. gave 
 Holdenby to his brother James, who 
 sold it to Lewis Duras, created Baron 
 Holdenby, and afterwards E. of 
 Feversham, which titles became ex- 
 tinct on his death, in 1709. Holdenby 
 was then bought by the great Duke 
 of Marlborough, and the 3rd Duke 
 sold it to his son-in-law, H. W. Agar 
 Ellis, 2nd Yiscount Clifden. It is 
 now the property of the 5th Lord 
 Clifden (a minor), and the remains 
 of the house have been restored 
 (1875) under the direction of Mr. B. 
 H. Carpenter. 
 
 Sir Christopher Hatton, the chan- 
 cellor, whose 
 
 “ bushy beard and satin doublet 
 
 Moved the stout heart of England’s queen. 
 
 Though Pope and Spaniard could not 
 trouble it,” 
 
 built two great houses in Northamp- 
 tonshire, Holdenby and Kirby. Hol- 
 denby lay long in ruin, and only a 
 fragment remained to be restored, 
 Kirby is still (so far as the walls are 
 concerned) perfect, but is abandoned, 
 and falling into decay (see Rte. 10). 
 The Lord Chancellor esteemed Hol- 
 denby <k the last and greatest monu- 
 ment of his youth,” and, writing to 
 Sir Thus. Heneage, in 1580, he says 
 
Northants. 
 
 Route 7 . — Holdenby House . 
 
 169 
 
 he had determined “ to take my 
 pilgrimage to Sir Ed. Bricknell’s 
 {sic, Brndenell’s at Dene) to view 
 my house of Kirby, which I yet never 
 surveyed, leaving my other shrine, I 
 mean Holdenbye, still unseen, until 
 that holy saint may sit in it, to whom 
 it is dedicated.” “ That holy saint,” 
 Queen Elizabeth, never, however, 
 visited Holdenby; and Sir Christo- 
 pher Hatton himself was not, it 
 would seem, often here, although it 
 was in this house that he celebrated, 
 in 1589, the marriage of his nephew 
 and heir, Sir William Newport, who 
 took the name of Hatton, with the 
 dr. of Judge Gawdy. “My Lord 
 Chancellor,” writes a Captain Allen, 
 “ danced the measures at the solemn- 
 ity. He left the gown in the chair, 
 saying, 4 Lie thou there, Chancellor.’ ” 
 (His skill as a dancer first recom- 
 mended him to the notice of the 
 queen ; but he never “ led the brawls ” 
 at Stoke Pogeis ; which place, in 
 spite of Gray’s 6 Long Story,’ did not 
 belong to him. See Sir Harris 
 Nicholas , ‘Life and Times of Hat- 
 ton/ 1847). James I. was occasion- 
 ally at Holdenby, liking the North- 
 amptonshire hunting, for which the 
 place was convenient ; but no royal 
 visit was so remarkable as that of 
 Charles I., who, after his surrender 
 of himself to the Scotch army, and his 
 delivery to the English Parliament, 
 was brought here virtually as a 
 prisoner. He left Newcastle, Jan. 
 30, 1646-7, attended by the Parlia- 
 mentary Commissioners and the few 
 followers who were allowed him, and 
 guarded by 900 horse and dragoons ; 
 and reached Holdenby, Feb. 15, 
 having been somewhat retarded “ by 
 reason of white weather.” Holdenby 
 had been fixed on as “ capacious, and 
 in the heart of the kingdom,” where 
 the king could be well looked after. 
 Hundreds of the gentry met the royal 
 cavalcade near Harborough, the 
 roads were thronged with spectators, 
 and the king entered his own palace 
 of Holdenby with all the state of 
 [ Northants , <$cc.~] 
 
 royalty. As soon as Charles was 
 settled at Holdenby, he wrote to the 
 Parliament, begging to be allowed 
 the attendance of some of his chap- 
 lains, whose advice he desired to 
 have in the discussion of questions 
 which, as he knew, were about to be 
 laid before him. This was refused. 
 The Parliamentary Commissioners, 
 among whom were the E. of Pem- 
 broke, the E. of Denbigh, and Lord 
 Montagu, had their own chaplains, 
 who preached in the chapel every 
 Sunday, when Charles remained in 
 seclusion, and he would not allow 
 these Presbyterian divines to say 
 grace at his table, but did so always 
 himself, “ standing under the state.” 
 Every mark of external respect was, 
 however, paid to him. Two or three 
 hours every day he gave to reading 
 and religious exercises. He usually 
 played chess after dinner; but his 
 favourite recreation was bowling, and 
 as the green at Holdenby was out of 
 order, he sometimes rode to Althorp, 
 where he found the “bias” not true, 
 and so to Boughton (Lord Yaux’s, — 
 see Rte. 8) for the sake of a game. 
 There was a long walk in the garden 
 here, which he often used, accom- 
 panied by one or more of the Commis- 
 sioners, and its site is still known as 
 “the King’s Walk.” Attempts were 
 made to convey private information 
 to him : one by Major Bosville, who, 
 disguised as a fisherman, met the 
 king at Brampton ford, on his way 
 to Broughton, and another by Mrs. 
 Cave, dr. of Wm. Cave of Stanford 
 (see Rte. 13). Both failed. At 
 length (June 2, 1647) the Commis- 
 sioners informed the Parliament that 
 a party of 700 horse had arrived at 
 Kingsthorpe (close to Northampton, 
 Rte. 1) from the army, then assem- 
 bling on Triplow Heath, and that it 
 was reported they intended seizing 
 the king. But their letter was too 
 late. On the same day Charles pro- 
 ceeded to Althorp, where he took 
 part in a game at bowls, and word 
 was then brought him that an un- 
 i 
 
170 
 
 Boute 7 . — Holderiby House . 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 known party of horse was on its way 
 to Holclenby. He at once returned. 
 The troops, however, headed by 
 Cornet Joyce, rendezvoused that 
 night on Harleston Heath, and, soon 
 after midnight, advancing into the 
 park, began to surround the house 
 of Holdenby. The gates had been 
 closed, and preparations made for 
 defence; but the governor of Hol- 
 denby, Col. Graves, escaped secretly, 
 believing that his own capture was 
 one of the objects of the attack. At 
 break of day (June 3rd), the troops 
 from Harleston appeared, drawrn up 
 in front of the great gates of the back 
 yard, and the soldiers in charge of 
 the king, who were stationed there, 
 instead of opposing, flung back the 
 gates, and received them with open 
 arms. They remained quiet the whole 
 of the next day. At 10 o’clock at 
 night it was resolved, “for the peace 
 sake of the kingdom,” that the king 
 should be removed at once. Cornet 
 Joyce demanded an instant audience 
 of Charles, and appeared at his bed- 
 room door “ wflth a cocked pistol in 
 his hand.” The king w T as disturbed 
 by the noise, and refused to see him 
 until the morning, “ which being 
 told the Cornet, he huff’d, but re- 
 tired.” At 6 in the morning the 
 troops were drawn up in the prin- 
 cipal court, and the king presenting 
 himself, a conversation followed be- 
 tween Joyce and King Charles in 
 the hearing of the soldiers. It ended 
 by the king’s asking for Joyce’s 
 commission, who answered, pointing 
 to the troops, that “it lay behind 
 him.” “That,” replied Charles, 
 smiling, “is a fair and well- written 
 commission, legible without spell- 
 ing.” The Commissioners protested, 
 but resistance was idle, and the 
 king “being seated in his coach, 
 called into it the Earls of Pembroke 
 and Denbigh,” and the whole com- 
 pany at once set forth, reaching 
 Hmchinbrook, near Huntingdon, the 
 same evening. Holdenby was the 
 last place at which Charles enjoyed | 
 
 anything like personal liberty. It 
 has been more than once asserted 
 that his departure was the result of 
 a private arrangement between the 
 king and the adjutators of the 
 army. But this has still to be proved. 
 
 Holdenby House was, according to 
 tradition, built by that mysterious 
 “ John of Padua ” who is said to have 
 been the architect of Longleat and of 
 Wollaton, but of whose real doings 
 so little is known. It was at any 
 rate built, as Hatton wiites (1579) to 
 Lord Burghley,. “ in direct observa- 
 tion ” (imitation) “ of your house and 
 plot at Tyball’s” = Theobald’s; and 
 Burghley who in the same year 
 passed a night at Holdenby in Hat- 
 ton’s absence, writes to Sir Chris- 
 topher : — “ Approaching the house, 
 being led by a large, long, straight, 
 fair way, I found a great magni- 
 ficence in the front or front pieces of 
 the house, and so every part answer- 
 able to other, to allure liking. I 
 found no one thing of greater grace 
 than your stately ascent from your 
 hall to your great chamber. . . And 
 where you were wont to say it was a 
 young Theobalds, truly Theobalds I 
 like as my own, but I confess . . . 
 it no otherwise worthy in any com- 
 parison than a foil.” Sir Thomas 
 Heneage, writing in 1583, describes 
 Holdenby as “ the best and most con- 
 siderate house that yet mine eyes 
 have ever seen.” “It shall hold 
 the pre-eminence of all the modern 
 houses I have known or heard of 
 in England.” “There is nothing 
 pleaseth me better,” he adds, “than 
 your park, which you dispraised; 
 your green and base court that you 
 devised; and your garden, which is 
 most rare.” It is clear that Hol- 
 denby, in its perfection, was no un- 
 worthy rival of Burghley or Hat- 
 field. The house was of vast size, 
 and disposed in 2 quadrangles, of 
 which the foundations may still be 
 traced. Two gateways remain, which 
 formerly stood on each side of the 
 quadrangle, in the front of the house. 
 
Nouthants. 
 
 Boute 7 . — East Haddon . 
 
 171 
 
 The gatehouse, which stood at right 
 angles to these, and opposite the 
 front door, is all gone, except foun- 
 dations. From this gatehouse a noble 
 avenue of trees stretched away to- 
 ward Brampton. These arches are 
 good examples of the half-Italian 
 renaissance : and on both the date 
 1585. It was between these gate- 
 ways that the troops of Cornet Joyce 
 were found drawn up on the morn- 
 ing of June 3 ; and down the main 
 avenue that the king departed. The 
 present house is almost the whole 
 of the N. side of the inner court, 
 which contained little more than 
 offices. It has some good chimneys, 
 and woodwork, and lias been well 
 restored and arranged. The “ King’s 
 walk ” ran along the outside of the 
 house, where the ground slopes to- 
 ward the church. It formed part of 
 the garden described by Morton in 
 his ‘ Northamptonshire,’ written soon 
 after the house was built. “Above 
 the rest is especially to be noated, 
 with what industry e and toyle of man, 
 the garden hath been raised, levelled 
 and formed out of a most craggye and 
 unprofitable grounde, now framed a 
 most pleasante, sweete, and princely 
 place, with divers walks, manie as- 
 cend ings and descendings, replen- 
 ished also with manie delightful trees 
 of fruite, artificially composed arbors, 
 and a destillery house.” The house 
 itself he calls u a very beautiful build- 
 ing, erected with such uniformity and 
 so answerably contrived as for the 
 quantity and quality is not to be 
 matched in this land. In the hall 
 theare are raised three peramides 
 very high standing instead of a 
 shryne, the midst whereof ascendeth 
 unto the roof of the hall, and on 
 them are depainted the armes of all 
 the gentlemen of the same shyre, 
 and of all the noblemen of this land.” 
 As to how far Holdenby resembled 
 Kirby (still remaining) in its archi- 
 tecture Mr. A. Hartshorne has as- 
 certained, by careful measurements, 
 that the same templates were used | 
 
 for the mouldings of the chimneys- 
 and windows of both of these houses. 
 
 The older hou&e stood in the hollow 
 to the S. close to the Church , which 
 is late Dec., with a chancel of E.-Eng. 
 character rebuilt in 1848 from a de- 
 sign by Sir Henry Dryden. The nave 
 was restored by Scott in 1868. The 
 screen originally belonged to the 
 great hall of the mansion. There are 
 inscriptions at the W. end of the 
 S. aisle, and again in the N., which 
 are from the ‘ Bishops’ Bible,’ and 
 have borders which may have been 
 designed by John of Padua. Observe 
 a very peculiar piscina, with a hollow 
 passing upwards into the wall. There 
 is a monument for Wm. Holdenby 
 (d. 1490) and wife, — incised figures 
 on a slab of alabaster; and some 
 brass tablets with inscriptions in 
 Latin verse for Hattons, — one for 
 Wm. Hatton, a younger brother of 
 Sir Christopher (Sir C. H. himself, 
 who died in 1591, aged 51, at his 
 house in Ely Place (Hatton Garden, 
 which Elizabeth forced from the 
 Bp. of Ely), was buried in St. 
 Paul’s Cathedral). In the church- 
 yard is a heavy marble monument 
 for members of the Clifden family, 
 and the monument of the late Rev. 
 C. H. Hartshorne, and on the S. 
 side of the tower is the tomb of 
 the late Baron Alderson, father of 
 the present (1877) rector. 
 
 The country between Althorp and 
 East Haddon (about 2 m. on the road j 
 is pleasant, and well wooded. The 
 Church of E. Haddon was at first 
 a Norm, building, but was much 
 altered, first in the Dec., then in the 
 Perp. period. The Dec. chancel arch 
 rests on Norm, piers, with engaged 
 shafts, and sculptured caps. ; and the 
 font is Norm, with curious sculpture 
 (the figure of a man between 2 birds 
 whose heads appear under his arras). 
 The tower was rebuilt in 1673. (1 J m. 
 S.W. is Long Buchby, where the 
 church, E. Eng. and Dec. was restored 
 in 1863. On one of the bells is the 
 I inscription — 
 
 i 2 
 
172 
 
 . "Route 8 . — Northampton to Bughy, by Boad. Sect. I. 
 
 “ If at my sound you don’t prepare, 
 
 You are not inclined to come to prayer.”) 
 
 The road soon begins to ascend the 
 higher ridges on the border of the 
 county. Et. (1 J m.) is Ravensthorpe , 
 with a very early Dec. W. tower, some 
 original seating, and a large and 
 curious chest (Dec.), covered with 
 thin plates of iron crossing each other 
 at right angles. At m. from 
 Northampton we reach West Haddon , 
 where is a church originally Dec. but 
 much altered in Perp. times. The 
 nave is unusually wide, the chancel 
 arch lofty, and there is a large Perp. 
 clerestory. The most interesting 
 object in the ch. is the font , of late 
 Norm, (almost E. Eng.) character, 
 square, with heads at the corners, and 
 a band of sculpture between them, 
 representing events from the life of 
 our Lord. From the 12th cent, this 
 church belonged to the Priory of 
 Daventry. There was until of late 
 (it has been quite removed) a large 
 tumulus in W. Haddon field, called 
 Osior Hill; and it has been con- 
 jectured that it marked the burial- 
 place of Publius Ostorius, Propraetor 
 of Britain under Claudius. The 
 place of his death is, however, quite 
 uncertain. Another 2J m. brings us 
 to Crick ( cerrig , A.S. = a stone, rock, 
 crag. So Cricklade, in Wiltshire, is 
 named either from some important 
 stone, or from the rough, stony cha- 
 racter of the “lade” or ford which 
 there crosses the Thames, where the 
 ch. well deserves a visit. (There is a 
 station on the Lond. and N.W. Ely. 
 known as the Crick Station , but it is 
 3 m. S. of the village, and is really 
 the station for Watford ; see Kte. 4.) 
 The church consists of W. tower and 
 spire, nave and aisles, and deep chan- 
 cel. The S. door, lower parts of aisle 
 walls, 2 pillars and one arch, S. side 
 of nave, are E. Eng. : the tower and 
 spire show a change to Dec. ; the 
 chancel, much of the aisles, all the 
 N. arcade and 2 piers and arches S. 
 are pure flowing Dec., and of great 
 
 beauty. The clerestory is Perp. The 
 E. and other windows of the chan- 
 cel, and the N. and S. chancel doors 
 call for special attention, from their 
 graceful design and finish. The 
 chancel arch, wide and lofty, springs 
 from brackets, with heads of a king 
 and bishop. The corbels of the chan- 
 cel windows are curious, and should be 
 noticed. There are very rich sedilia 
 and piscina. The font, a cylindrical 
 bowl, covered with rounded figures, 
 rests on 3 monsters or dwarfs. The 
 early Dec. tower and spire are much 
 enriched with ball-flower, and the 
 cusping of the belfry windows is very 
 characteristic. The arms of Astley 
 (a cinquefoil) appear in many parts 
 of the church. The earliest portions 
 of the church are probably due to the 
 Camvilles, who had much property 
 here, which passed (at a period before 
 the addition of the tower) to the 
 Astleys of Warwickshire ; and to Sir 
 Thomas Astley (living temp. Edw. 
 
 II. and III.), the chancel and the 
 portions of the same date may safely 
 be assigned. In 1338 he founded a 
 chantry in the par. church of Astley, 
 which he afterwards made collegiate, 
 and began to rebuild. The choir of 
 Astley remains, and has all the pecu- 
 liarities, even to the sections of the 
 mouldings, to be noted in the chancel 
 of Crick. 
 
 J m. beyond Crick the high road 
 crosses the old line of the Watling 
 Street, which is visible for at least 
 half a mile in either direction. Crick, 
 it may be added, is the terminus of 
 the “ long race ” of the boys of Eugby 
 school. 
 
 The border of Northamptonshire is 
 here passed, and with a curve south- 
 ward, and a bend again to the N. we < 
 reach (20 m. from Northampton) 
 Rugby (See Hdbk.for Warwickshire ), 
 
Northants. Route 8. — Northampton to Market Harborougli. 173 
 
 EOITTE 8. 
 
 NORTHAMPTON TO MARKET HAR- 
 BOROUGH. 
 
 ( London and North Western Ely.) 
 
 SPRATTON TO WELFORD— BY ROAD— 
 (NASEBY). 
 
 Leaving Northampton from the 
 Castle Station , the rly. winds toward 
 the N.W., and reaches, in 10 min., 
 
 Brampton Stat., from which Bramp- 
 ton on one hand, and Boughton on 
 the other, may be visited. The vil- 
 lage of Church Brampton is nearly 
 2 m. from the station L, and stands 
 pleasantly in a wooded and some- 
 what broken country. The Church 
 (ded. to 8. Botolf), admirably kept, 
 has a late Dec. nave, and a chancel 
 (of similar character), built since 
 1850 on the foundations of the old 
 one. There are some modern win- 
 dows of stained glass. The most 
 interesting object in the church, 
 however, is a chest, much orna- 
 mented with iron work, and no 
 doubt of the 13th cent. (The cope 
 chests in York Minster have iron 
 work of similar character. See the 
 Brampton chest figured in 4 Gloss, 
 of Archit.’) Boughton , 1 J m. rt., is 
 only noticeable from its former im- 
 portance. A considerable fair was 
 held here at midsummer, which at- 
 tracted all the neighbouring farmers 
 and gentry; and Boughton House, 
 long pulled down, was a seat of the 
 Greens and Wentworths; and after- 
 wards of Lord Yaux. (The Greens, 
 of Green’s Norton, took, it is said, 
 their name from the village-green 
 of Boughton. See Green’s Norton, 
 Ete. 5. There is a curious maze 
 cut on the green.) The old church 
 of Boughton has shared the fate of 
 
 the house. That which exists is 
 without interest. The obelisk, seen 
 on its hill-top from all the surround- 
 ing country, stands in what was 
 once the park of Boughton, and was 
 raised to the memory of a Duke of 
 Devonshire. 
 
 The rly. curves round to the N. 
 from Brampton, and very shortly 
 reaches 
 
 Spratton Stat. [The church of 
 Pitsford , rt., has an E. E. tower, 
 and a remarkable Norm, portal and 
 font. The rest is Dec.] 
 
 The Church and village of Sprat- 
 ton stand high on their hill, and 
 the former is a good landmark. It 
 is interesting, and well deserves a 
 visit. The interior was restored in 
 1847 ; the spire taken down and re- 
 built in 1870. The building is 
 Trans.-Norm., with later changes 
 and additions. The tower is much 
 enriched, in the belfry stage and in 
 that below it, with arcades of pointed 
 arches. A Perp. parapet rests on 
 the original corbel table of heads. 
 The W. door has a semicirc. head, 
 with zigzags and grotesques. In the 
 nave are 5 bays ; the N. arcade is 
 of the same date as the tower, with 
 round piers and arches. The S. 
 arcade is early Dec., with round 
 piers and pointed arches. The font 
 is Trans.-Norm. The chancel, at 
 first Dec., was much altered in the 
 Perp. period. Under the arches 
 which divide the N. chantry from 
 the chancel are 2 altar-tombs. The 
 westernmost bears the effigy of a 
 knight in camail and jupon, with 
 a collar of SS. On the tomb the 
 arms of Swinford occur 3 times ; 
 and the effigy is undoubtedly that of 
 Sir John Swinford, who married the 
 heiress of the Ardens, and died in 
 1371. The arms of Arden occur 
 3 times on the tomb. The iron rail- 
 ings are coeval. The other tomb 
 is plain, and there is a third in 
 the N. aisle. The Ardens long 
 
174 Route 8 . — Northampton to Market Harborough. Sect. I. 
 
 held the manor. At Spratton Hall, 
 standing at the N. end of the vil- 
 lage, is a very large and remark- 
 able dovecot, perhaps of the 14th 
 cent., and built in the form of a 
 cross with equal arms. Spratton 
 Grange (A. A. Berens, Esq.) is a 
 modern house. 
 
 Spratton lies on the high rond 
 from Northampton to Welford and 
 Market Harborough : and the places 
 of interest which occur between 
 Spratton and Welford may best be 
 described here. Creaton, 1 m. on 
 this road, has a small church, with 
 Dec. and Perp. portions, restored in 
 1857. That of Hollowell , 1 m. L, 
 was built in 1840 by the Rev. J. D. 
 Watson, then rector. The road is 
 soon bordered by the park of Cottes- 
 broohe Hall (Sir James Hay Lang- 
 ham, Bart.). There is here much 
 wood, and the whole scene is plea- 
 sant. The house is of the time 
 of George II., and handsome. The 
 Church stands picturesquely in a 
 wooded dell, a little east of the 
 village. It is throughout early 
 Dec., except the walls above the 
 windows of the nave, which are 
 Perp. The general design is good, 
 and the tower is especially no- 
 ticeable for the excellence of 
 its simple details. The shields on 
 the parapet carry the arms of But- 
 vileyn. There is a large modern 
 Langham monument in the chancel ; 
 and some others for members of this 
 family, which acquired Cottesbrooke 
 in the reign of Charles I. 1 m. 1. 
 of the road is Guilsborough , where 
 the church has an E. E. tower, with 
 a Dec. broach spire. The rest of 
 the church was Dec., but it has been 
 much altered, and was restored, 
 partly in 1815, partly about 1840. 
 There is a Grammar School here of 
 some note, founded in 1688 by Sir 
 John Langham, of Cottesbrooke. 
 The building contains a remarkable 
 staircase of carved oak, very massive 
 
 and solid, which rises in a square 
 the whole height of the house. In 
 the neighbourhood are Guilsborough 
 Grange (Lady Eleanor Clifton) and 
 Guilsborough Hall. On the latter 
 estate is a large Roman encampment, 
 called the Burroughs : a parallelo- 
 gram of 600 ft. by 300 ft., having 
 a single fosse and vallum, and com- 
 prising an area of about 8 acres. It 
 occupies the crest of a hill between 
 the sources of the Avon and the 
 Nene, and gives name not only to 
 the parish, but to the hundred of 
 Guilsborough. 
 
 There is nothing to be noted at 
 Thornby or Cold Ashby; but here 
 we turn off to the rt. in order to 
 visit the historical ground of Nase- 
 by. (It should be said that the vil- 
 lage and battle-field lie about 3 m. 
 N. from Guilsborough. and nearly 
 the same distance S.W. from Wel- 
 ford. The distance from Market 
 Harborough is 6 m. This is the 
 best point from which to drive to 
 Naseby, and indeed no carriage can 
 be procured nearer. A pedestrian 
 may very well walk from Welford 
 or Guilsborough.) 
 
 The plateau, or high table-land 
 on which Naseby stands, is the cen- 
 tral watershed of England. On it 
 are the springs of the Avon, the 
 Nen, the Welland, and many lesser 
 streams ; the Avon (Shakespeare’s 
 Avon) flowing westward to join the 
 Severn ; the Nen and the Welland 
 running north and east into the 
 German Ocean. The ground is 
 locally said to be the “ highest in 
 England ; ” for the “ Middle Angles” 
 who settled here, knew nothing, like 
 their descendants, of such hills as 
 Ingleborough or Helvellyn. The ac- 
 tual heights are — at Naseby Church, 
 667 ft., and at the base of the obe- 
 lisk, which has been raised at no 
 great distance, 697 ft. These points 
 are higher than the field of the 
 battle, N. of them. This, however, 
 is no doubt one of the loftiest pla- 
 teaux in the country, and is high 
 
NoRTHANTS. 
 
 'Route 8 . — Naseby. 
 
 175 
 
 enough to command very extensive 
 views in all directions. The ridges 
 of Edgehill (see Rte. 5) are visible 
 in the distance S.W. Edgehill (Oct. 
 23, 1642) was the first battle of the 
 vjivil War, and the traditions and 
 local recollections concerning it are 
 more numerous than those of Naseby 
 (June 14, 1645), the last great fight, 
 and that in which the fate of the 
 king was really decided. Between 
 the two battles there had been 
 others, such as Marston Moor, and 
 such constant skirmishes and sieges 
 as to have familiarized the people 
 to war and its horrors. Hence Nase- 
 by made less impression than Edge- 
 hill. 
 
 On the 7th of May, 1645, the King 
 and Prince Rupert left Oxford, and 
 took the field, hoping to raise the 
 siege of Chester. Hearing this, the 
 “ Committee ” then sitting in London 
 ordered Fairfax with his army of the 
 “ new model,” then in the west, to 
 return at once and invest Oxford. 
 This was done. Charles advanced 
 to Leicester and took it by storm ; 
 then, learning that Oxford w T as 
 blockaded, he turned southward for 
 the relief of that place, and esta- 
 blished his headquarters at the 
 Wheatsheaf Inn at Daventry (see 
 Rte. 4). Fairfax marched to meet 
 him from before Oxford, and (June 
 12) encamped at Kislingbury, 5 m. 
 E. of the position of the royal 
 army, on Borough Hill, above Da- 
 ventry (see Rte. 4). Charles was 
 riding from the 4 ‘ Wheatsheaf” to 
 hunt a buck in the park of Fawsley, 
 when he received news that the new 
 model army was close at hand. A 
 council of war was called, and it 
 was determined to march away for 
 Market Harborough, and to proceed 
 toward Pontefract (then besieged), 
 so as to avoid a battle. But this 
 Fairfax was resolved to press. He 
 rode out himself on the night be- 
 tween the 12th and 13th, which was 
 dark and rainy, and proceeding 
 within a mile of the village of Floore 
 
 (Rte. 4), saw the blaze of the huts 
 on Borough Hill, set on fire by the 
 Royalists as they left them, and 
 heard the rumble of carts and the 
 heavy tramp of men and horses. He 
 then knew that the king’s army was 
 marching away north. (On the re- 
 turn of Fairfax to camp he found 
 that he had forgotten the pass- word, 
 and was stopped for some time by 
 one of his own sentries.) Early on 
 the morning of the 13th Harrison 
 was sent with a troop of horse to 
 Daventry, and Ireton was despatched 
 to hang on the king’s rear. Crom- 
 well arrived at headquarters, with 
 his regiment (not of the new model) ; 
 and the same night Fairfax encamped 
 at Guilsborough (see ante). The 
 van and main body of the Royalists 
 had reached Market Harborough. 
 The king was in a house at Lubben- 
 ham (see Rte. 13); there was a de- 
 tachment at Lutterworth, and a rear- 
 guard of horse at Naseby. On these 
 last Ireton fell in the middle of the 
 night, and took many of them pri- 
 soners. A few escaped to Lubben- 
 ham, and roused the king, who 
 dressed at two in the morning of 
 the 14th, and rode off to Market 
 Harborough, where Rupert was quar- 
 tered. Here, in a long low room 
 of the King’s Head Inn, a council 
 of war was held. Retreat was im- 
 possible ; and although Rupert dis- 
 approved, Charles resolved to face 
 about and give battle. Fairfax ad- 
 vanced from Guilsborough at dawn, 
 and at 5 a.m. was in the village of 
 Naseby. 
 
 “ The Naseby plateau extends from 
 the village northwards to beyond Sib- 
 bertoft, where the hills slope down 
 to the valley of the Welland. The 
 plateau consists of a succession of 
 low rolling hills with intervening 
 valleys. 4 A place of little hills and 
 vales, the ground, some ploughed, 
 some champein’ as one of the com- 
 batants described it. N. of the vil- 
 lage there is a slight depression, 
 the ground rising again to Mill Hill, 
 
176 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Route 8 . — Naseby : the Battle . 
 
 which is a mile from the church. 
 Thence the ground slopes gently 
 down in three successive waves, and 
 finally rises again to Dust Hill. 
 The distance between the tops of 
 Dust and Mill Hills is about a mile, 
 and the intervening space, called 
 Broadmoor, was the battle-field. The 
 continuation of Mill Hill to the W., 
 was then called Red-pit Hill.” A 
 double fence, with the hedge, forming 
 the boundary between the parishes 
 of Naseby and Sulby, stretched across 
 from the base of Dust Hill to Red- 
 Pit Hill. (See Markham’s ‘Life of 
 Fairfax/ where will be found the best 
 modern account of the battle, with 
 an excellent ground-plan.) 
 
 Charles marched from Harborough 
 at about 7 in the morning, and ap- 
 proached Naseby over the hill of 
 Sibbertoft, appearing on the slope of 
 Dust Hill about the same time as 
 the army of the Parliament reached 
 Mill Hill, opposite. Prince Rupert 
 had then command of the king’s 
 forces, of which the main battle con- 
 sisted of regiments of infantry formed 
 in tertias , or solid squares of pikemen 
 flanked by musketeers. These were 
 under the command of Sir Jacob 
 Astley ; “ an honest, brave, and plain 
 man,” says Clarendon, “and as fit 
 for the office he exercised of major- 
 general of foot as Christendom yield- 
 ed.” The cavalry flanked him on 
 either side, the right commanded by 
 Rupert, and divided into 2 brigades 
 under Prince Maurice and the Earl 
 of Northampton ; the 1. by Sir Mar- 
 maduke Langdale. In the rear of 
 Astley’s main battle was a reserve 
 of horse under Col. Howard, and 
 farther in the rear again, the main 
 body of the reserves under the Earl 
 of Lindsay, whose father received his 
 death wound at Edgehill. The whole 
 Royalist army numbered about 5520 
 horse and 5300 foot ; but there were 
 many hundreds of camp followers. 
 They had halted at Sibbertoft, when 
 the king, in complete armour, with 
 his drawn sword in his hand, rode 
 
 along the line and asked the men 
 whether they were ready to fight for 
 him ? The answer was “ All ! All ! ” 
 — with ringing cheers. 
 
 Fairfax's centre was formed of 
 squares of infantry under General 
 Skippon. The left wing of cavalry 
 was under Ireton; the right under 
 Cromwell. Sulby Hedges were lined 
 by Colonel Okey with his dismounted 
 dragoons. Fairfax himself “ was 
 everywhere as occasion required.” 
 The word of the Parliamentarians 
 was, “ God our strength ! ” that of 
 the Royalists, “ Queen Mary ! ” The 
 Royalists all wore bean-stalks in their 
 hats ; the others had no distinguish- 
 ing mark, though some had a bit 
 of paper or linen “stuck in their 
 bands.” 
 
 Fairfax at length gave the order 
 to advance, and between 10 and 11 
 o’clock the armies met in Broadmoor. 
 Rupert’s wing at once routed that of 
 Ireton, to which he was opposed ; and 
 his troopers, following the evil pre- 
 cedent of Edgehill, galloped to the 
 rear of the Parliamentary army, and 
 began plundering the waggons. Okey 
 then ordered his dragoons to mount, 
 and prepare for work. Meanwhile 
 on the Parliamentary right, Cromwell 
 had completely routed Langdale’s 
 horse, and Fairfax, who had led with 
 Cromwell, left the pursuit to him, 
 and returned to the struggle between 
 the main battles. This was fierce for 
 a time, and Skippon himself was 
 wounded ; but the arrival of Fairfax, 
 and the sudden appearance of Okey 
 with his dragoons, decided the fate 
 of the Royalists, who fell into utter 
 confusion, and their centre was ut- 
 terly routed. The last square of the 
 Royalists was broken by Doyley and 
 Fairfax. Rupert at last led his troops 
 back to the field, but to no purpose. 
 The Royal reserve of horse, with the 
 king as their leader, made a gallant 
 attempt to recover the day; but a 
 second line of battle was formed by 
 Fairfax, and although Charles cried 
 out “ Face about once more ! — give 
 
Northants. 
 
 Route 8 . — Naseby Church. 
 
 177 
 
 one charge more and recover the day !” 
 and was on the point of dashing for- 
 ward, the Earl of Carnwath, laying 
 hand on his bridle, cried “Will you 
 go upon your death in an instant?” 
 — the horse was turned, there was a 
 sudden panic, and the whole body of 
 Royalists fled at a gallop, every man 
 shifting for himself. It is impossible 
 to deny the truth of Clarendon’s 
 words — “ Courage was only to be re- 
 lied on, where all conduct failed so 
 much” — and the incapacity of Ru- 
 pert’s generalship was never more 
 completely shown. On the other 
 hand the judgment and military skill 
 of Fairfax are just as conspicuous. 
 He ordered that no horse soldier was 
 to dismount for plunder, but that the 
 cavalry was at once to follow the 
 king’s flying army. Some were over- 
 taken in a deep ravine near Sibber- 
 toft, called Hellecombe, and there 
 sold their lives dearly. Another party 
 was cut to pieces at the ch.-yd. 
 gates of Marston Trussed (their 
 bones, some buttons, and a knife, 
 were recently found buried in the 
 clay by the chancel wall). Cromwell 
 chased the main body to within 2 m. 
 of Leicester. The king never drew 
 rein till he reached Ashby-de-la 
 Zouch, 28 m. distant, and then went 
 on to Lichfield. About 1000 Royal- 
 ists were killed, 700 in battle, and 
 300 in the pursuit. 4500 prisoners 
 were taken, besides stands of arms, 
 colours, 200 waggons laden with 
 stores, the king’s coach, with his ca- 
 binet of correspondence, and all his 
 household servants. The victors 
 lost, it is asserted, not more than 200 
 men. The battle lasted about 3 hours. 
 A number of Irishwomen followed 
 the royal camp, and of them, but 
 without the knowledge of Fairfax, 100 
 were killed, and the others slashed 
 and disfigured. “ Six coaches full of 
 ladies,” and some respectable women 
 in the waggons were, we are told, 
 treated with consideration. There is 
 a local tradition that many wives of 
 officers were killed in the pursuit ; — 
 
 but this seems to be a confusion with 
 the story of the Irish “harpies” as 
 they were called. The letters seized 
 in the king’s coach disclosed his cor- 
 respondence with the Irish Royalists 
 and others. A committee was ap- 
 pointed by Parliament to open and 
 report upon them ; and their contents, 
 no less than the issue of the battle, 
 went to ruin his cause. He was 
 never again able to take the field at 
 the head of an army; but, as Sir 
 Philip Warwick says, “ was like a 
 hunted partridge, flitting from one 
 castle to another.” 
 
 There are few local relics, and 
 few traditions, of this famous battle. 
 The Sulby Hedges , lined by Okey’s 
 dragoons may still be traced, and are 
 perhaps much the same as in 1645, 
 when the rest of the field was un- 
 enclosed. The Parliamentary officers 
 were, it is said, buried under the 
 tower of Naseby Church, where some 
 bones have been found; and the 
 table at which the Royalist horse 
 were carousing in a house at Naseby, 
 when they were overtaken by Ireton’s 
 troopers, is preserved at Naseby 
 Woolleys (G. A. Ashby, Esq.). The 
 bodies of the slain were for the most 
 part buried in pits on the battle- 
 field, marked at present by the sink- 
 ing of the earth, and the fringe of 
 brambles which surrounds them. 
 Bullets are frequently turned up in 
 ploughing. A stone obelisk with an 
 inscription well intended but ill- 
 judged, was raised near the church 
 in 1823 by John Fitzgerald, Esq. 
 
 It is worth adding here that Hr. 
 Arnold and Mr. Carlyle went over 
 the ground together in 1842. 
 
 Naseby Church , restored in 1860, 
 is without interest, unless we except 
 the curious stilted pillars on the N., 
 and the good caps. S. Both are 
 Dec. The church had long a trun- 
 cated spire on which was fixed a 
 hollow ball of copper, brought from 
 Boulogne by Sir Giles Allingham, 
 when that town was taken by the 
 i 3 
 
178 j Route 8 . — Northampton to Market Rarhorough. Sect. I. 
 
 English, temp. Hen. VIII. He 
 placed it on his house at Horseheath 
 in Cambridgeshire; and when that 
 was pulled down it came into the 
 hands of Mr. Ashby, who fastened it 
 on the spire. It was removed (but 
 given to the parish, and may still be 
 seen) when the spire was completed 
 in 1860. It may be noted that two 
 of the bells are inscribed “ God save 
 the king,” and “Auspice Regno” 
 round the royal arms. On two 
 others the device is King Charles 
 on horseback, with an inscription 
 and the date 1638. There is some 
 modern stained glass in the church. 
 
 The Avon rises at Avon Well , very 
 near the church, W. The source of 
 the Nen is a little farther off by the 
 side of the road which runs E. The 
 Welland rises in the cellar of Sibber- 
 toft vicarage, 3 m. N. The Rev. 
 Thomas James, Canon of Peter- 
 borough, who died in 1864, and was 
 the author of many valuable works, 
 including an excellent account of 
 Northamptonshire (printed in the 
 ‘ Quarterly Review ’) was for some 
 years vicar of Sibbertoft, and an 
 inscription bears that the roof of 
 the N. aisle was restored as a memo- 
 rial of him. There is also a memo- 
 rial window for Canon James in the 
 chancel. The church has been care- 
 fully and well restored. On Fox 
 Hill, N.E. of the village is an en- 
 trenchment of some extent. 
 
 Returning to the road at Thornby, 
 a journey of 3 m. brings us to Wei- 
 ford , where the Church is of some 
 interest. It was thoroughly re- 
 stored in 1872 “ as a memorial of 
 Lieut. -Col. the Hon. F. W. C. Vil- 
 liers of Sulby Hall.” The S. aisle 
 was then rebuilt, and a S. porch 
 erected — the whole under the direc- 
 tion of the then vicar, the Rev. G. 
 Ayliffe Poole, everywhere known as 
 a learned ecclesiologist. The N. 
 arcade of the nave is E. E. circ. 
 P240 ; the S. is new. The chancel 
 is Perp., except the eastern bay with 
 
 its window, which was allowed to 
 remain when the rest was rebuilt, 
 circ. 1430. Remark in the chancel 
 the large unwieldy heads, serving as 
 corbels ; and (especially) the modern 
 decorations, very striking and har- 
 monious, all executed by the hand 
 of Mr. Poole. There is some very 
 good modern glass by Usher and 
 Kelly. The tower , early Perp., is an 
 excellent example of a type common 
 in this immediate neighbourhood, — 
 the best being that of Church 
 Langton in Leicestershire. All 
 have shallow pilaster-like buttresses 
 clasping the angles, and terminating 
 about the middle of the belfry 
 stage ; good W., and excellent belfry 
 windows, sometimes in pairs, marked 
 gurgoyles, and fine nave arches. 
 About 2 m. is the site of Sulby Abbey, 
 founded for Premonstratensians by 
 Wm. de Widville, circ. 1115. There 
 are no traces but the lines of founda- 
 tions, 2 coffins, and the gracefully 
 designed coffin lid (with floriated 
 cross and staff) of an abbot, circ. 
 1250. Sulby Hall (Lady Eliz. Vil- 
 liers) was built about 1795 after a 
 design by Soane. 
 
 We return to the rly. at Spratton, 
 and in 3 minutes reach the next sta- 
 tion at 
 
 Brixworth : a place which the 
 archaeologist will of course visit, and 
 will find the labours of his pilgrimage 
 amply rewarded. The object of inte- 
 rest is the church, constructed at an 
 early period from the remains of an im- 
 portant Roman building. The church 
 was “ restored ” in 1866 ; but its pre- 
 vious condition has been duly re- 
 corded, and the restoration has 
 brought to light the ancient features 
 in a very remarkable manner. ( Brix- 
 worth Church has been described 
 and figured by Britton (‘Archit. 
 Antiq.’) and by Rickman. There is 
 also an excellent paper by the Rev. 
 G. Ayliffe Poole in the Reports for 
 
Northants. 
 
 Boute 8 . — Brixworth. 
 
 179 
 
 1850 of the Assoc. Archit. Societies ; 
 and the late vicar, the Rev. C. F. 
 Watkins, to whom the restoration is 
 due, has written a 4 Description and 
 History * of the building.) 
 
 Brixworth (Briclesworde in Domes- 
 day) was one of the earliest posses- 
 sions of Medeshamstede (Peter- 
 borough) ; and according to a passage 
 quoted by Leland from some unknown 
 chronicler, a cell attached to the great 
 monastery was founded here either 
 by the Abbot Saxulf or some imme- 
 diate successor. In the 13th cent, the 
 rectory was given to Salisbury Cathe- 
 dral, the chancellor of which cathe- 
 dral held it as his prebend until quite 
 recently. The church, which stands 
 high and well, with fine trees about 
 it, consists at present of nave, chancel 
 and apse, S. aisle or chapel, and W. 
 tower, with staircase turret attached. 
 The great interest of the building 
 arises from its early character, and 
 from the material (Roman brick) 
 which is largely used in it. It has 
 been suggested that it is in part an 
 actual Roman Basilica ; but such a 
 building would only have been found 
 at a considerable station ; and there 
 is no reason for believing that any 
 such station existed on the site of 
 Brixworth. The only existing traces 
 of what may be Roman work are 
 some indistinct lines of castramenta- 
 tion in a field adjoining the church- 
 yard. Still there can be no doubt 
 that a large Roman building of some 
 sort did exist here, and that its re- 
 mains were used by the builders of 
 the existing church. The mortar 
 which now appears is not Roman; 
 but fragments of unmistakable 
 Roman mortar were found adhering 
 to some of the bricks — now unfortu- 
 nately “pointed” by too zealous 
 masons. There can be little doubt 
 but that Brixworth is an early, and 
 therefore very important example of 
 Romanesque — that is, of the direct 
 imitation of Roman work by English 
 builders (see Earl’s Barton , Rte. 2). 
 If we may judge from the character 
 
 of the work alone, we shall give to 
 Brixworth a very much earlier date 
 than can be assigned to EarFs Barton 
 or Barnack. Little local or national 
 style has here been developed, and 
 we have the Roman brick used as it 
 might have been used by Roman 
 builders. The original plan (which 
 has been traced with certainty) con- 
 sisted of a nave of 4 bays, with 
 narrow N. and S. aisles. A W. tower 
 opened to the nave, and to a squared 
 chamber on either side, N. and S. ; 
 which chambers again opened to the 
 nave aisles. There were also square 
 chambers or chapels opening from 
 the eastern ends of the aisles, and 
 also communicating with the chancel. 
 A lofty arch crossed the eastern end 
 of the nave, and a second arch opened 
 to an apse at the eastern end of the 
 chancel, which was thus distinctly 
 marked. The apse, polygonal on the 
 exterior, was surrounded by a semi- 
 circular passage or ambulatory, which 
 formed the outside wall of the church 
 toward the east. At a period much 
 later than the rest of the church, but 
 still no doubt before the Conquest, 
 a circular staircase turret was added 
 on the W. front of the tower, some 
 change was made in the tower arch 
 opening to the nave, and all access 
 to the tower from the outside was 
 closed. This was probably done for 
 the sake of security, perhaps after 
 some Danish foray. The tower was 
 thus converted into a stronghold. 
 At some unknown period, but before 
 the building of the present south 
 chapel, the original aisles were re- 
 moved, and the arcade on either side 
 closed, so as to form the outer wall. 
 Other changes followed. Dec. and 
 Perp. windows were inserted ; and 
 in the reign of Henry VI. the chancel 
 was lengthened and remodelled, with 
 the apparent destruction of the apse. 
 This was the condition of the church 
 when its restoration was undertaken 
 by Mr. Watkins, — except that the 
 wash and plaster had been removed 
 from two of the arches, so as to 
 
180 
 
 Route 8 . — Brixwcrth Church. 
 
 Sect. T. 
 
 show the Roman brickwork, by Miss 
 Baker, sister of the historian of 
 Northants. The ch. has now been 
 cleared of all obscuring plaster. The 
 arches and their piers have been 
 thoroughly disclosed, and although 
 the aisles have not been restored, the 
 walls have been set back, so as to 
 show the piers, and the intruded 
 windows have been replaced by 
 smaller, round-headed ones. The 
 apse has been restored on the old 
 foundations, since a portion of the 
 polygonal wall was discovered in its 
 place. The enclosing wall of the 
 ambulatory is traced, but the ambu- 
 latory itself has not been rebuilt. It 
 may be added that the dimensions 
 of the nave are 60 ft. by 30; and 
 that the chancel, from its western 
 arch to the arch of the apse, is 30 ft. 
 in length. The ded. is to All Saints. 
 
 The semicircular arches of the nave 
 are built with Roman bricks, mostly 
 in two courses, one above another, 
 as if for strength, and rest on square 
 imposts of the same material, set 
 upon square piers of brick and stone 
 intermingled. Above, on either side, 
 are three clerestory windows, also 
 round headed, and set between, not 
 over, each main arch. “They are 
 constructed with a mixture of stone 
 and fragments of bricks, as though 
 all the whole bricks taken from a 
 previous building had been exhausted 
 in the construction of the lower 
 arches, and none but these fragments 
 remained to intermix with stone in 
 the clerestory formation.” — C. F. 
 Watkins. It had been conjectured 
 that this clerestory was an addition, 
 perhaps of the same date as the stair 
 turret ; but the clearing of the walls 
 during the restoration showed that 
 it was built at the same time as the 
 main arcade. The clerestory, how- 
 ever, narrows from a set-off on either 
 side ; the lower walls being 4ft. thick. 
 The masonry (except the brick) is 
 rubble, “ strengthened at the corners 
 with large rude blocks of granite, 
 sandstone, and clay slate . . . and 
 
 cemented by a mortar as hardened as 
 the stones themselves.” — 0. A. W. 
 These blocks may have been boul- 
 ders, found on the surface of the 
 soil. In the tower, the stair turret, 
 and elsewhere, herringbone masonry 
 occurs in patches, quite irregularly. 
 It is worth notice, also, that in the E. 
 Eng. and Dec. additions Roman bricks 
 are used — perhaps taken from the 
 destroyed aisles. 
 
 At the east end of the chancel the 
 lofty arch opening to the apse remains 
 as it was at first built, except that 
 the piers have been strengthened. 
 There is a clerestory window on 
 either side ; and both arch and win- 
 dows resemble those of the nave in 
 construction. There was a second 
 arch, resting on a transverse wall, at 
 the east end of the nave. The bases 
 of the piers have been found, but this 
 arch is gone. In the tower, the W. 
 arch formed the original grand en- 
 trance to the church. A lesser arch 
 opposite opened to the nave ; and 
 when the staircase turret was added, 
 this arch was shorn of its crown, to 
 receive a three-light window with 
 baluster shafts, as a substitute for the 
 W. window of the tower, which was 
 closed by the staircase. The square 
 tower is bonded in with the nave at 
 intervals. The round stair turret is 
 a clear addition, and of very rough 
 masonry. At the east end, the ambu- 
 latory round the apse was on a con- 
 siderably lower level than the floor 
 of the apse itself; but a thorough 
 examination has disclosed no trace of 
 a crypt. Indeed, the chancel and the 
 apse were on the same level. Exter- 
 nally the apse had shallow, pilaster- 
 like buttresses. In one of the western 
 piers of the nave there was found, 
 during the restoration, a rudely- 
 sculptured eagle (now preserved in 
 the church) which may perhaps be 
 Roman. There are mortices in it, 
 for the fixing, apparently, of a stan- 
 dard. The present entrance to the 
 church is by a Norman portal built 
 into the lower part of the western- 
 
Northants. 
 
 Route 8 . — Scaldwell — Lamport. 
 
 181 
 
 most arch on the south side. The 
 small S. chapel or aisle, which is 
 attached to the S. side of the chancel, 
 was added in the E. Eng. period as 
 the chantry of the Verduns, then 
 lords of the manor. Here is the cross- 
 legged effigy of Sir John de Verdun, 
 and a late altar-tomb for a Lord 
 Inverary. The oaken screen here is 
 of the 16th century. The upper part 
 of the tower, with its spire, are ad- 
 ditions of the Dec. period. 
 
 Some coins of Antoninus Pius and 
 Carausius have been found at Brix- 
 worth, and it is said that Roman urns 
 have occurred. A so-called Saxon 
 arch found in rebuilding the Vicar- 
 age, but no longer existing, has been 
 claimed as part of the cell belonging 
 to Peterborough. The building of 
 so important a church here is no 
 doubt due to that great monastery ; 
 and its size and importance, rela- 
 tively to the consequence of the place, 
 probably saved it, as Mr. Ayliffe 
 Poole points out, from a mediseval 
 rebuilding. 
 
 Brixworth boasts a distinction of 
 very different character, in the 'kennels 
 of the famous Pytchley Hunt (see Rte. 
 9), which have long been established 
 in the village. They are worth see- 
 ing. The dogs (about 32 couple) are 
 fine, and admirably cared for. There 
 are also large stables for the horses 
 of the servants of the hunt, and of 
 the master (Earl Spencer). Foxes’ 
 snouts (the nose and a fragment of 
 skin like a moustache) are nailed on 
 boards in the yard, showing the 
 numbers killed during each season. 
 The Pytchley hunt the greater part 
 of the county, and are met by Lord 
 Fitzwilliam’s hounds near Apethorpe 
 and by the Warwickshire on the 
 west. 
 
 [Between Brixworth station and 
 that of Lamport lie (rt.) the churches 
 of Scaldwell, Old or Wold, and Fax- 
 ton. Scaldwell (restored 1863) has 
 a Dec. S. arcade and an early Perp. 
 on the N. side. The nave and chan- 
 
 cel are of equal length. The font is 
 good Dec. with a modern cover ; the 
 E. window Perp. The tower is cer- 
 tainly early, and shows marks of 
 Saxon work. Wold Church has a 
 fine Dec. tower (the most interesting 
 portion), but is mainly Perp. There 
 are fragments of a carved pulpit of 
 the 16th cent. Faxton, a chapelry 
 in the par. of Lamport, has a small, 
 isolated Ch., which was originally 
 E. Eng. but was altered in the Dec. 
 period. The chancel arch and east 
 window are early Dec. There is a 
 mural monument for a certain Judge 
 Nichols, who lived here, and who 
 was poisoned by 4 women when on 
 circuit at Kendal, — to prevent his 
 passing sentence of death on one of 
 their relatives. He kneels in his 
 robes at a desk ; Justice and Forti- 
 tude support him. The balance and 
 scales held by Justice (which have 
 unfortunately dropped off) were sup- 
 posed by the villagers to represent 
 the weighing of the poison.] 
 
 We reach the next station at 
 
 Lamport. On the hill above is 
 Lamport Hall (Sir Charles Isham, 
 Bart.). The house was designed by 
 Webb, son-in-law of Inigo Jones. It 
 contains some family pictures, and a 
 good library. The grounds are ex- 
 tensive and pleasant, and the large 
 park is well wooded. Lamport Church , 
 in the village, is modern, but retains 
 the arcade of its predecessor. There 
 is some modern stained glass, a good 
 new font, and many Isham memo- 
 rials. The country here is much 
 broken into hill and dale, and the 
 views over Cottesbrooke Woods are 
 very pleasing. 
 
 Proceeding from Lamport, we pass 
 rt., about 1^ m. from the station, 
 Maidwell Hall (occupied by W. Bel- 
 grave, Esq.), dating from 1637. The 
 church of Maidwell, without interest, 
 is one of two churches (representing 
 two manors) which formerly stood 
 here. One has disappeared altogether. 
 The other has lost its ancient chancel. 
 
182 Route 9 . — Northampton 
 
 The country here is wooded and 
 pretty ; and between Maidwell and 
 Haselbeech (2 m. W.) is a picturesque 
 valley with fine trees, much favoured 
 by picnic parties. Haselbeech 
 Church (restored 1860) has a good 
 tower of the Welford type (see the 
 present Kte. ante ) restored in 1869. 
 A mortuary chapel adjoining the 
 chancel was built in 1872, and con- 
 tains an altar-tomb with recumbent 
 effigies for the wife and child of Cecil 
 Foljambe, Esq. : whose mother, the 
 dowr. Lady Milton, resides at Hasel- 
 beech Hall. 
 
 The next station is Kelmarsh , where 
 the Church has (1876) been restored 
 and partly rebuilt. The roof of nave 
 and chancel are new, as are the carved 
 oak seats, and the pulpit and reading* 
 desk of walnut. There is a mosaic 
 reredos ; and the side arcades of the 
 chancel are inlaid with alabaster and 
 fragments of marble from Eome. The 
 stained glass of the E. window is of 
 the 14th cent., and the gift of the 
 rector. Piers of polished red granite 
 (modern) divide the nave from the 
 N. aisle. Altogether the restoration 
 (or rebuilding) is an elaborate one. 
 The tower and spire are of the Wel- 
 ford type. Near the village is Kel- 
 marsh Hall (K. C. Naylor, Esq.). 
 
 One station serves for Clipston and 
 Oxendon Magna. Clipston has a 
 Church of some interest, with Norm., 
 E. Eng., Dec. and Perp. portions. 
 The arcades areE. Eng., the chancel 
 Perp. The W. tower is E. Eng., with 
 a Perp. spire. A Grammar School , 
 free to the children of the six neigh- 
 bouring parishes, and a hospital for 
 12 aged persons, were founded at 
 Clipston by Sir George Buswell in 
 1667. The Buswells were lords of 
 the manor of Newbold in the parish 
 of Clipston. Oxendon Magna stands 
 on high ground about 1 m. N. of Clip- 
 ston. The church (restored 1847) is 
 Dec. ; and in the chancel is a monu- 
 ment for the Kev. John Morton, 
 
 to Kettering , by Road . Sect. I. 
 
 author of the 4 Nat. Hist, of North- 
 amptonshire,’ published in 1712. He 
 was rector from 1706 to 1737. 
 
 [1 1 m. rt. of the Clipston stat. is 
 Arthingworth (church restored 1872; 
 reredos of marble and alabaster ; font 
 and pulpit of Eden stone; some 
 modern stained glass) ; 2 m. S.E. is 
 Harrington , with an E. Eng. church, 
 and some ancient screen work. The 
 tower dates from 1809.] 
 
 There is little which calls for 
 notice before the railway reaches the 
 station at Market Harborough. At 
 East Farndon , in a field adjoining 
 the Hall (Mrs. Fagan), are some con- 
 siderable earthworks which seem to 
 be British, and which Mr. M. H. 
 Bloxam holds to have been con- 
 nected with other British posts at 
 Sibbertoft and at Kockingham, — 
 frontier fortresses, as he suggests, of 
 the Dobuni S. of the river Welland. 
 
 For Market Harborough see Hdbk. 
 for Leicestershire. 
 
 ROUTE 9. 
 
 NORTHAMPTON TO KETTERING. 
 
 By Road . 
 
 The distance from Northampton 
 to Kettering is 12 m. Some interest- 
 ing places are easily accessible on 
 either side of the main road. 1 m. 
 is passed, rt. Abington Abbey (so 
 called at present — it was never a 
 religious house), now serving as a 
 
Northants. Route 9. — Abington — Moulton. 
 
 183 
 
 private asylum. It was long the 
 property of the Bernards and Thurs- 
 bys, and contains some Tudor por- 
 tions, although the main house was 
 built by the Thursby who bought 
 the place in 1669. There is a lofty 
 hall, partly of this date. The 
 grounds are pleasant, and adjoining 
 a mulberry-tree on the lawn is an 
 inscription running, This tree was 
 planted by David Garrick, Esq., at 
 the request of Ann Thursby as a 
 growing testimony of their friend- 
 ship, 1778.” Whether this tree is 
 a slip from Shakespeare’s mulberry 
 does not appear ; but it may be sup- 
 posed that the planting was sug- 
 gested by the fact that Shakespeare’s 
 granddaughter, Elizabeth, daughter 
 of John Hall and Susanna Shake- 
 speare, lived and died here (Feb. 
 1669-70), as the wife of Sir John 
 Bernard — who, in the year of her 
 death sold Abington to William 
 Thursby. Her burial here is re- 
 corded (Feb. 17); but she has no 
 memorial in the church , which stands 
 within the grounds. This was re- 
 built (except the tower, which is 
 Norm, and Perp.) in 1821, and con- 
 tains several Thursby monuments, 
 of no great interest. There is a rich 
 pulpit of the 17th cent. 
 
 The drive from Northampton is 
 through a pleasant country, without 
 marked character. At 4 m. a road 
 branches 1. to Moulton (J m.) where 
 the ch. has a good Dec. tower but 
 is otherwise uninteresting. J m. rt. 
 of the main road are Over stone Church 
 and Park (Lord Overstone). At the 
 entrance to the park stands the gate- 
 house with arch and spiked cresting 
 removed from the old hall of Pytch- 
 ley when that place was dismantled. 
 (See the present Rte., post.) That 
 hall was long the place at which 
 certain members of the Pytchley 
 Hunt assembled during part of 
 the season. Old-fashioned manners 
 prevailed there; and a venerable 
 member of the Pytchley, on passing 
 under the arch in its present posi- 
 
 tion, remarked, “ I hope that old 
 gateway cannot tell tales.” The 
 park thus entered is large and plea- 
 sant, much broken and well wooded. 
 A large sheet of water gives it cha- 
 racter, and adds to the beauty of the 
 views, especially as seen from the 
 windows of the house. This is 
 modern (1862, Teuton , archit.), of 
 Italian design, with a lofty central 
 tower. The fine rooms contain no- 
 thing which calls for especial notice, 
 since the great art-collections belong- 
 ing to Lord Overstone are not here. 
 Roberts's ‘Edinburgh,’ dated 1847, 
 hangs in one of the corridors, but is 
 terribly cracked. There is a large 
 library, where are the valuable col- 
 lections of Maculloch of the 4 Com- 
 mercial Dictionary,’ and other- 
 volumes of importance. Here are 
 also many MS. letters and remains of 
 Gray the poet ; a vol. of letters of 
 the civil war period, including many 
 of Prince Rupert’s; and numerous 
 drawings, plans, and prints, which 
 formed part of Baker’s collections for 
 Northamptonshire. Trees and shrubs 
 in the grounds and gardens are 
 forming fine specimens. Overstone 
 was bought in 1814 by Lewis Loyd, 
 Esq. ; from whom it passed in 1858 
 to his only son, S. J. Loyd, who in 
 1850 was created Lord Overstone, 
 taking his title from this place. 
 
 The old church stood in front of 
 the former manor-house, which occu- 
 pied the site of the present. The 
 existing Church stands near one of 
 the entrances to the park, and was 
 built by John Kipling, Esq., in 1807. 
 It contains a large 4 ‘ parlour ” or pew ; 
 some memorial tablets, including 
 one for John Kipling, which tells us 
 that this church, which was built 
 at his sole expense, will best perpe- 
 tuate his memory ;” and church 
 “ books ” given by a Oust (former 
 owners of the place) who was Speaker, 
 and on going out of office had the 
 privilege of removing those used in 
 the House of Commons. There is 
 also in the church, under glass, an 
 
184 Route 9 . — Northampton to Kettering , by Road. Sect. I. 
 
 early German picture of the baptism 
 of our Lord. The East window is 
 filled with good German glass. 
 
 {Mears Ashby , 2 m. E. of Over- 
 stone, has a church with E. E. por- 
 tions, and a modern chancel, rebuilt 
 1859. There is some good modern 
 stained glass. The church of Sy- 
 well , 1J m. N.E., was thoroughly 
 restored and partly rebuilt by Lord 
 Overstone, in 1870.] 
 
 [On the left of the main road, 
 at about 5J m. from Northampton, 
 a road branches to Holcot. This 
 church, and two others of more im- 
 portance, lie tolerably near together, 
 and may be visited in the same ex- 
 pedition. The village of Holcot 
 (]J m. from the main road) is pretty 
 and picturesque, occupying broken 
 ground, with fine trees scattered 
 about it. The Church , much “re- 
 stored ” in 1845, has a late Dec. nave 
 (piers and arches), with Perp. cle- 
 restory and roof. Portions of the S. 
 aisle are E. Eng. The tower is good 
 early Perp. The view from the N. 
 side of the ch.-yd. is worth notice. 
 The Church of Hannington (lj m. 
 N.E .) is very unusual and striking. 
 (It was restored in 1868.) It is 
 throughout of one period, Early 
 English, well developed, but belong- 
 ing to the very beginning of the 
 style. The most peculiar feature of 
 the church is the single arcade, 
 which divides the nave through the 
 centre and rests against the wall 
 above the chancel arch, thus form- 
 ing in effect a double nave. (The 
 object of this arrangement is quite 
 uncertain. It is found at Caythorpe 
 in Lincolnshire, and as Sir H. Dry- 
 den points out, in three churches in 
 Gotland (Sweden) and in that of S. 
 Nicholas, Soest.) This arcade sup- 
 ports nothing, but presses so much 
 on the chancel wall that a great 
 beam has become necessary to sup- 
 ply counter-pressure. The tower at 
 the W. end is built into the nave, 
 
 where it projects like a huge chim- 
 ney. The windows are large, with 
 plain intersecting tracery, and the 
 lofty piers are fine. There is a deep 
 arch on the W. front, somewhat re- 
 calling Peterborough. A string- 
 course runs quite round the church, 
 outside and in. Observe also some 
 very good remains of screen work, 
 a fine pulpit of the Dec. period, 
 and portions of the old chancel- 
 screen. There was a Gilbertine cell 
 here, attached to the parent house 
 of Sempringham; but whether the 
 existing church belonged to it is 
 uncertain. Walgrave, 1J m. N.W. 
 of Hannington, is the finest church 
 of the three. It is entirely Deco- 
 rated, dating from 1300 to 1320. 
 The restoration ( Hayward of Exeter, 
 archit.) is unusually good, and is 
 strictly conservative. The nave is 
 of three bays, with N. and S. aisles 
 terminating with it. The S. aisle 
 was, however, altered by the Lang- 
 hams in the 17th cent., when a kind 
 of transept, with a vault beneath it, 
 was thrown out. The main arcade 
 is most graceful, with quatrefoiled 
 capitals well undercut, and bases of 
 similar character. There are gro- 
 tesque heads at the angles of the 
 hood-mouldings. The chancel is 
 wider than the nave, thus producing 
 an unusual impression of space. The 
 East window has fine reticulated 
 tracery, and is set in a hollowed 
 moulding. On the S. side is one 
 large window nearest the altar, and 
 two others smaller, the second of 
 which is carried downwards so as 
 to form a low side-window — a very 
 striking example. There is a tran- 
 som, below which is rich tracery, 
 and then a division into four lights. 
 On the W. side is a hollow recess 
 with trefoiled heading, which has 
 apparently served as a seat. — On the 
 N. side of the chancel are only two 
 windows. — The roofs of nave and 
 chancel are new and very good. 
 On the whole this church, so uniform 
 and so dignified, well deserves atten- 
 
Northants. Route 9. — Walgrave — Rytchleij. 
 
 185 
 
 tion. On some parts of the buttresses 
 and battlements are the letters “ I.L. 
 1633.” 
 
 Walgrave was for some time the 
 rectory of John Williams, who after- 
 wards became Bishop of Lincoln, 
 and (1641) Archbishop of York. 
 His chaplain, John Hacket, who 
 became Bishop of Lichfield after 
 the Restoration, has recorded, in his 
 curious and amusing ‘Life of Abp. 
 Williams/ many particulars of his 
 mode of living at Walgrave — which 
 preferment lie obtained from Lord 
 Chancellor Egerton, in whose house- 
 hold he had been — “ a fit nest for an 
 eagle,” says Hacket. He built, and 
 gardened, and planted at Walgrave, 
 we are told, “ and made it a dwelling 
 fit for all the changeable seasons of 
 the year. . . Here he could solace 
 himself in private retirements . . . 
 and through temperance he had 
 strength to be industrious, and gave 
 a good example to the divines his 
 neighbours, who had need to have 
 such pricked in here and there 
 among them.” He was very charit- 
 able and hospitable, and “ lived like 
 a magnifico at home. His brethren 
 the clergy visited him much; and 
 he had mightily won the friendship 
 of the gentry in the whole district 
 about him, and had such favour and 
 countenance from the nobility like- 
 wise, that they vouchsafed their 
 presence at his feasts ; but chiefly 
 for his music sake, which was the 
 banquet they came for ; and he was 
 furnished very well both for voices 
 and instruments in his own family. 
 It was sumptuous, I confess, for one 
 of his level in those days.” After he 
 was made Dean of Salisbury be had 
 trouble with his chapter, and so 
 “ reposed himself in the tranquillity 
 of Northamptonshire till a better 
 advancement released him from 
 those wranglers. The place (Wal- 
 grave) was healthful; for no air is 
 so wholesome to a man as where he 
 is greatly beloved.” — Williams was 
 the great rival of Laud, and his life 
 
 belongs to the history of that time. 
 He died 1650, having been deprived 
 With the rest of the bishops; and 
 “ after the murder of the king lived 
 very retired, seemed to take no satis- 
 faction in his life, and used to rise 
 every night at midnight to his devo- 
 tions.” He was the last churchman 
 who acted as Lord Chancellor. 
 
 Walgrave Hall , now a farm-house, 
 belonged formerly to the Langhams, 
 and has the remains of a good Eliza- 
 bethan house, with carved staircase 
 and mullioned windows. There are 
 fine trees about it, and a series of 
 large fish-ponds. At Wold , 1 m. 
 N.W., is a church with E. E. and 
 Perp. portions, and a fine Dec. 
 tower. There are fragments of a 
 curious pulpit, perhaps Elizabethan.] 
 
 Returning to the main road, we 
 have, at 10 m. Broughton close on 
 the rt. and Cransley on the 1. The 
 church of Broughton has Norm, por- 
 tions, but is chiefly early Dec. and 
 Perp. The whole church was re- 
 stored in 1854; but the modern 
 pulpit of Caen stone was added in 
 1867. There is a monument with 
 bust for Robert Bolton the Puritan. 
 Cransley Church, mainly E. Eng., 
 was restored in 1870. — 1| m. E. of 
 Broughton is Pytehley , famous as 
 the place which has given name to 
 one of the most celebrated “ hunts ” 
 in the kingdom. This hunt was 
 established early in the last century ; 
 and the manor-house, which had 
 been built by Sir Euseby Isham in 
 the reign of Elizabeth, served during 
 many years as a 44 club house ” for 
 the members. It was of native 
 yellow stone, with many gables, and 
 was pulled down in 1828. (There 
 is an engraving, well showing the 
 character of the house, in Baker’s 
 4 Northamptonshire.’ ) “ The kennels 
 were close at hand, and the hounds 
 were brought there for a fortnight 
 at a time, when that part of the 
 country was hunted. Then the 
 members came and took up their 
 
186 Boute 9 . — Northampton to Kettering , by Boad . Sect. I. 
 
 lodgings at the club, the horses 
 being in scratch stables in the vil- 
 lage. The cuisine was notoriously 
 good, and, in the fashion of the day, 
 drinking and play were deep. A 
 billiard-table and boxing-gloves in 
 the hall helped to dispel the li&tless- 
 ness of non-hunting days. It was a 
 custom after dinner for any member, 
 on depositing half-a-crown in a wine- 
 glass, to name and put up to the 
 highest bidding the horse of any 
 other member, who of course could 
 buy him in at his own price. In 
 this way, on a night of more than 
 usual festivity, “ Lancet ” was sold 
 by Mr. Nethercoat to Mr. Cook of 
 Hothorpe, for £620 — a price at that 
 day unexampled for a hunter, and 
 long quoted as one of the marvels of 
 Pytchley. - . The Chase books at 
 Althorp, which commence in 1773, 
 give a detailed account of every 
 day’s sport, while the Pytchley were 
 under the mastership of the late 
 Lord Althorp.”— James's ‘ Northants.’ 
 The hunt continued after the ex- 
 tinction of the club, and remains in 
 great distinction, the kennels being 
 at present at Brixworth. (See Ete. 
 8.) It is worth noting that the 
 Domesday Survey records as the 
 owner of this place one William, 
 “ who held his lands at Pightesley by 
 sergeantry of hunting wolves, foxes, 
 and other vermin.” His predecessor 
 in the days of the Confessor had 
 been “Alwyne the hunter.” The 
 “ sporting antiquity ” of Pytchley 
 is therefore very considerable ; and 
 Canon James points out that, under- 
 lying the foundations of the present 
 church and the ch.-yd. a primitive 
 cemetery, discovered in 1845, dis- 
 closed in one of its rough stone kist- 
 vaens the skeleton of a man with a 
 spear-head and boar’s tusk by his 
 side — the trophy, no doubt, of some 
 yet earlier chasse in the forest which 
 once covered all this part of the 
 country. Pytchley was at one time 
 famous for its annual races and 
 steeplechases, which have long been 
 
 discontinued. The race-course here 
 was an especially good one. 
 
 Pytchley Church , of no great 
 interest, was restored in 1845, and 
 1861. It contains portions of vari- 
 ous dates, and its “ ring of bells ” is 
 famous. There is a modern brass 
 for C. H. Domenichetti, d. 1862. 
 
 2 m. beyond Broughton we reach 
 (15 m. from Northampton) Kettering , 
 where the railway station serves for 
 the Midland main line, from London 
 to Leicester and the North (see 
 Ete. 12); and for the branch line 
 which runs to Kettering from Cam- 
 bridge, by Huntingdon and Thrap- 
 ston (see Ete. 14). Kettering 
 (Cateringe in Domesday ; pop. of 
 parish in 1871, 7184 ; Inn , the Eoyal, 
 in the market-place) is a market- 
 town standing on high ground, and 
 marked by the tower and spire of 
 the church seen over all the neigh- 
 bouring country. The chief business 
 of the place is shoe-making ; and 
 there are some large tanyards. For 
 the tourist, however, the sole point of 
 interest in Kettering is the church. 
 The place belonged to the great 
 monastery of Peterborough from the 
 end of the 10th century until the 
 16th. The manor has since been in 
 several hands. 
 
 The Church is late Perp. with the 
 exception of the eastern end of the 
 chancel, which is early Dec., circa. 
 1260. It consists of nave and aisles, 
 chancel with N. and S. chantry, W. 
 tower and N. porch. The Perp. 
 work of the main building is of or- 
 dinary character. The nave is of 
 six bays. The aisles are nearly of 
 equal width. But although fine and 
 dignified in expression, the interior 
 is of no very great interest, and the 
 only points to be noted are — the 
 East window of the chancel (early 
 Dec.), with modern stained glass, the 
 remains of a wall-painting in the N. 
 aisle, representing St. James the 
 Greater in the habit of a pilgrim ; 
 and the roof of the S. chantry, a 
 
Northants. Boute 9. — Kettering — Barton Seagrave. 
 
 187 
 
 good example of late Perp. But the 
 tower and spire are very fine, and are 
 quite worthy of the architectural 
 reputation of the county. The date 
 is probably about 1450. The tower 
 is of four stories, richly decorated 
 with string-courses and panels ; the 
 former quatrefoiled, but with a dif- 
 ferent pattern for each. These foiled 
 string-courses are carried round the 
 buttresses, which are of six stages, 
 set on in pairs about 2 ft. from each 
 angle of the tower. Above the very 
 rich W. doorway is the great W. 
 window, occupying the whole height 
 of the 2nd storey. Above, again, are 
 the belfry lights, triplets, each of 
 two lights, transomed. The battle- 
 mented parapet has hexagon turrets 
 at each corner, and set on with a 
 projecting eave resting on a corbel 
 table of heads. (Compare the tower 
 of Oundle, Rte. 2.) The spire, rising 
 within the battlements, is richly 
 crocketed. The north porch, with 
 a parvise chamber, is curiously 
 slanted ; perhaps, as has been sug- 
 gested, to face the chief path lead- 
 ing to the church from the town. 
 (Kettering Church has been tho- 
 roughly illustrated in twenty plates 
 by R. W. Billings.) 
 
 A new church (St. Andrew's ) 
 built by Street in 1870, deserves 
 notice. The Cemetery , on the Lon- 
 don road, is well laid-out and 
 planted. 
 
 The architectural antiquary should 
 visit Barton Seagrave, about 2 m. 
 from Kettering; and Broughton 
 and Geddington, described in the 
 following Route, are also within an 
 easy drive of the town. 
 
 Barton Seagrave lies nearly 2 m. 
 on the road to Thrapston. The 
 walk is not very interesting until 
 you descend to the valley of the 
 little river Ise, a feeder of the Nen. 
 Here is much wood ; and on the rt. 
 bank of the stream on rising ground 
 stand Barton Hall and Church. The 
 place is named from the Seagraves, 
 
 its ancient lords, who held it from 
 an early period. The Church , ded. to 
 St. Botolph, belonged, temp. Edw. 
 II., to the Priory of Kenilworth. It 
 is very interesting, and contains 
 some remarkable Norman work. The 
 Norman church consisted of nave 
 and chancei, with a tower at the 
 intersection. A south aisle with 
 chantry at the E. end was added in 
 the Dec. period, when the whole 
 fabric underwent alteration. The 
 main walls of the church (except 
 the S. aisle) and the lower part of 
 the tower are Norm., and apparently 
 early Norm. Norm, windows, with 
 exterior side shafts, remain on the 
 N. side of the chancel and in the 
 tower. The N. door of the nave is 
 Norm., having side shafts with 
 carved caps., and some very rude 
 carving in the tympanum below the 
 arch, representing a bearded head 
 between two monsters, one of which 
 has a human head in its mouth. 
 Within, the tower arches belong 
 to the original building. Their W. 
 faces have a deep hollow, a convex 
 moulding, and a double row of billet 
 mouldings, supported by a single 
 shaft on each side, and a rude and 
 far projecting abacus. The east 
 faces of these arches are plain. The 
 clerestory of the nave, with its deeply 
 set, trefoil windows, was added in 
 the Dec. period, to which time also 
 belong the corbels of the nave roof, 
 and the upper stage of the tower, 
 with the belfry lights. 
 
 Fine avenues of branching elms 
 stretch away from the church E. and 
 N.E. ; and may be due to the ex- 
 ample, if not to the direction, of 
 that Duke of Montagu known as 
 “ Planter John,” who did so much at 
 Boughton (see Rte. 10), and who 
 was for sometime u Lord Paramount ” 
 here. On the opposite side of the 
 road is Barton Hall (Lady Hood), 
 an old house much modernized. It 
 was the home and property of John 
 Bridges, author of the ‘History of 
 Northamptonshire ; ’ who was born 
 
188 
 
 Route 10 . — Kettering to Stamford , by Road. Sect. T. 
 
 here. The materials for this history 
 were collected by him with very 
 great labour ; but he died before 
 they could be brought into shape, 
 and the book (2 vols. folio) was 
 arranged and published in 1791, by 
 the Rev. Peter Whalley. 
 
 The visitor should walk to the 
 top of the hill, to which the avenues 
 ascend. The view thence across 
 the valley of the Ise is pleasing, and 
 is well characteristic of this part 
 of the country, which is almost too 
 closely wooded. Over all the scene, 
 church towers, halls and villages, 
 look out from thick screens of elm 
 and oak. 
 
 ROUTE 10. 
 
 KETTERING TO STAMFORD. 
 
 By Boad. 
 
 The distance from Kettering to 
 Stamford is 21 J m. No railway 
 passes through this northern part of 
 Northamptonshire ; which is in many 
 ways attractive. Much of the 
 country is well wooded, and was 
 included in the ancient forest of 
 Rockingham. There are some very 
 striking prospects, since the ground 
 is much broken, without anywhere 
 rising to much height. Some im- 
 portant houses and churches are on 
 the main road, or adjoin it. 
 
 About 2 m. from Kettering, a 
 little off the main road, to the rt. is 
 Warkton Church, rich (if that is the 
 right word for such things) in the 
 costly monuments of the Dukes and 
 
 Duchesses of Montagu, whose house 
 of Boughton is at no great distance. 
 The wood which covers so much of 
 this district is due in great measure 
 to Duke “ John the Planter,” who 
 died in 1719. Warkton Church is 
 surrounded by fine trees, above 
 which rises the tower, Perp., of four 
 stories. On one of the bells is an 
 unusual inscription, “Gratum opus 
 agricolis, intactum sileo percute 
 dulce sono.” The rest of the church 
 was reduced to sad condition in the 
 last century, when the chancel was 
 rebuilt in “ classic ” style, and the 
 nave was deprived of all its original 
 character. The chancel was then 
 converted into a kind of mausoleum. 
 The nave was restored in 1872, 
 when a new S. aisle was built. The 
 chancel has undergone some im- 
 provement ; but the great Montagu 
 monuments are still predominant. 
 These are — John, Duke of Montagu, 
 “ the Planter,” who died in 1749. 
 His Duchess appears lamenting in 
 an absurd attitude; — and another 
 for the Duchess herself, who died 
 in 1751. Below appear the Fates, 
 spinning and cutting her thread of 
 life. These are both by Roubiliac. 
 The others are for Mary, Duchess of 
 Montagu, d. 1775, “a circular Ionic 
 sepulchre,” designed by Peter Mat- 
 thias Vangelder; and (far the best 
 of all) for Elizabeth Montagu, 
 Duchess Dowager of Buccleuch. only 
 daughter of the last Duke of Mon- 
 tagu, d. 1827. This is a dignified 
 figure, seated, by Thos. Campbell. 
 The great size of these erections, the 
 cost of which was enormous whilst 
 the art is very indifferent, gives 
 them a more than usually intrusive 
 and disturbing character. Warkton 
 belonged to the Abbey of St. Ed- 
 mundsbury until the Dissolution, 
 when it was granted to Sir Edward 
 Montagu. 
 
 [1J m. E. of Warkton is the 
 church of Grafton Underwood , worth 
 notice. The towe is E. Eng., with 
 
189 
 
 Northants. Route 10. — WeeTdey — Boughton . 
 
 some Dec. additions, and the spire 
 is Dec. The aisle windows are 
 Perp. Those of the chancel (except 
 one, which is E. Eng.) rich Dec. 
 There is an unusually long Perp. 
 porch. Within , the nave arcade, of 
 three bays, is E. Eng., but with 
 some Norman survival. There are 
 some fragments of Perp. wood-work ; 
 and a modern monument (an ena- 
 melled brass on a slab of black 
 marble) for Lady Gertrude Fitz- 
 patrick, daughter of John, Earl of 
 Upper Ossory. A large wood in 
 this parish (whence the name 
 “ Underwood,”) was enclosed and 
 converted into a park by Simon de 
 Drayton, 22nd Edw. III.] 
 
 The Church of Weekley , restored, 
 1872, with a Dec. tower and good 
 early Dec. arcade, is passed shortly 
 before entering the park of Boughton, 
 which is a distinct manor, although 
 in Weekley par. In this church is 
 the monument of Lord Chief Justice 
 Montagu, very different in its sim- 
 plicity from the vast structures at 
 Warkton. Near the church is 
 Montagu’s Hospital , founded by Sir 
 Edward Montagu in 1614, and bear- 
 ing on its front the motto, “What 
 thou doest doe yt yn Faith.” 
 
 Boughton, which was bought in 
 1528 by Sir Edward Montagu, Lord 
 Chief Justice, is especially remark- 
 able for the great network of avenues 
 which surround the house, and which 
 extend altogether to a length of 
 about 60 miles. These were entirely 
 the work of Duke John 44 the Plan- 
 ter,” who died in 1749. The equal 
 horizon-lines of the avenues are curi- 
 ous in effect, and at once show that 
 all the trees were planted at the 
 same time. The greater number are 
 elms ; but the variety is inferior to 
 that used at Lilford, where the elm 
 avenues are certainly more striking. 
 The Boughton trees, however, are 
 very beautiful ; and the broad grassy 
 spaces in the park, dotted with deer 
 
 (there are about 800), that open 
 between the avenues, from the N. 
 and W. fronts are delightful. The 
 house was built by Kalph, 1st Duke 
 of Montagu, who in 1695 received 
 King William and his Court here 
 with great magnificence. It was 
 largely altered and added to by the 
 2nd Duke, John “ the Planter and 
 in the days of its splendour Bough- 
 ton was famous for its vast gardens 
 and ornamented grounds, a wilder- 
 ness of statues, vases, and terraces. 
 Thus it is mentioned by Delille , 
 4 Jardins,’ Chant, ii., where some 
 English places are condescendingly 
 noticed : 
 
 ‘ Et Bowton et Foxley, que le bon gout planta.’ 
 
 — All this splendour, however, has 
 disappeared (although the Jittle 
 river Ise, which runs through the 
 park, still retains for a short part of 
 its course the 44 straight-waistcoting ” 
 to which it was subjected by that 
 kind of bon gout which came from 
 Holland with the 3rd William), 
 and the house weais at present 
 a half-deserted look. It is vast, 
 with much French character — tall 
 casements with small glazing, and 
 44 mansardes ” breaking from the 
 roofs which, moderately steep, are 
 covered with Colley Weston slate. 
 The house itself is of the local grey 
 stone. The wings were the work of 
 John the Planter. An arcaded front 
 opens to the hall, in which are many 
 full-length portraits (chiefly copies 
 or compositions) including one of 
 Lord Chief Justice Montagu. In an 
 inner hall is a curious portrait of 
 Edw. YI. on a white horse. In the 
 background a full moon is rising. 
 Other pictures to be noted are — in 
 the Dining-room , Duke John the 
 Planter, by Kneller , a delicately- 
 featured face, as of a man who may 
 have cared more for his trees thau 
 for the turmoil of state. Eldest 
 daughter of Yilliers, Duke of Buck- 
 ingham, Vanclyck ; and two of the 
 Brudenell family, also by Vandyck. 
 
190 
 
 Route 10 . — Kettering to Stamford , by Road. Sect. I. 
 
 In the State Bedroom is the portrait 
 of a man holding a mathematical 
 instrument, ascribed to Dobson. The 
 principal art-treasures of the house, 
 however, are in an upper apartment. 
 These are two cartoons, assigned to 
 Baffaelle, and given by Charles II. 
 to the Duke of Beaumont, with a 
 series of tapestries from the Cartoons 
 now at Kensington. The subjects 
 are the “ Vision of Ezekiel,” and a 
 “ Holy Family ” — the first after Raf- 
 faelle’s small picture in the Pitti 
 Palace at Florence, the second after 
 a Holy Family painted for Francis 
 I. But in both cases there are great 
 alterations and omissions, and both 
 Passavant and Waagen are decidedly 
 of opinion that Raffaelle himself had 
 nothing to do with these cartoons. 
 “I am convinced,” writes Waagen, 
 “ that both these cartoons were exe- 
 cuted by Netherlandish artists, as 
 patterns for the tapestry manufac- 
 tories at Arras, Tournay, and other 
 towns, where the tapestries in the 
 Vatican from the Hampton Court 
 Cartoons were worked.” In spite of 
 this judgment, however, which is 
 probably a true one, the cartoons at 
 Boughton will be found interesting, 
 and well deserving of attention. 
 There are in the house two sets of 
 tapestries from the Hampton Court 
 Cartoons; besides many of later 
 date, and of different subjects. — In 
 the same room with the cartoons are 
 full-length portraits of John the 
 Planter and of his Duchess, daugh- 
 ter of the Duke of Marlborough; 
 Lady Anne Rivers, in the habit of 
 an Abbess ; and Lord Rivers in 
 peer’s “ robes.” An adjoining bed- 
 room contains a portrait of the last 
 of the Treshams (see Rushton, Rte. 
 12), in very rich armour, holding 
 a cross-bow. In the house are some 
 other pictures of note : — a fine copy 
 of Matsys ’ “Misers;” landscapes by 
 Artois and Wilson ; a curious family 
 picture by John Verholie ; and child- 
 ren of the Earl of Leicester by Sir 
 Peter Lely. There are many Mon- 
 
 tagu portraits, but none of much 
 interest beyond those already noticed; 
 besides numerous flower-pieces by 
 Jean Baptiste (Monnoyer), d. 1699, 
 who was patronized by the first 
 Duke of Montagu, for some time 
 Ambassador in Paris, whence he 
 brought the artist, who lived occa- 
 sionally at Boughton, and painted 
 there. The ceilings throughout 
 are by Verrio ; and the room is 
 shown in which King William HI. 
 slept, where the bed is hung with 
 pink and gold brocade. On a chim- 
 ney-piece in the Audit Gallery are 
 the inscriptions “ Mille douleurs pour 
 ung plasure”; “Ne sis Argus foris 
 et domi talpa.” House and pictures 
 suffer throughout from damp, and 
 to wander through the bright, far- 
 stretching park is more cheering 
 than to explore these half-deserted 
 apartments. 
 
 Returning to the high road w T e 
 reach, at 3 m. from Kettering, the 
 village of Geddington , where is one 
 of the Eleanor crosses, stiil perfect, 
 and still happily unrestored. Ged- 
 dington (the name is perhaps to be 
 referred to the Geddingas, whose 
 settlements occur in Suffolk and 
 Middlesex) is a place of considerable 
 antiquity, and the church retains 
 marks of its Saxon origin. The 
 nave arcade, on the N. side, is late 
 Norm, with peculiar caps, and round 
 arches; on the S. the arcade is E. 
 Eng. with pointed arches. But 
 above the arcade on the N. side are 
 traces in the wall of a very peculiar 
 triangular-headed arcade which may 
 perhaps be Saxon. In that case the 
 Saxon church must have been aisle- 
 less, and its walls were cut through 
 to form the present arcades, dividing 
 the nave from its aisles. The earlier 
 aisles were rebuilt in Perp. days, 
 when the walls were raised, and the 
 present clerestory of the nave in- 
 serted. The whole of this Saxon 
 work, which was carefully preserved 
 during the restoration of the church, 
 
Northants. Bte. 10 . — Geddington — Newton-in-the- Willows. 191 
 
 deserves notice. The chancel arch 
 is late Dec. ; but on the S. side are 
 two E. Eng. arches opening to a 
 chantry. Bracket heads project from 
 the wall on each side of the E. 
 window; and an inscription runs 
 round the base moulding in the 
 eastern bay, “ Willelmus Glover de 
 Gaytynton capellanus fecit scabella ” 
 — with the date 1369. These scabella 
 may possibly be the existing sedilia. 
 In the 1ST. aisle is a small brass 
 for Henry Jarmon, c. 1480, with 
 anelace or knife, and his wife. The 
 modern stained glass is by Clayton 
 and Bell. The tower and spire are 
 Dec. and find. Bemark the project- 
 ing gurgoyles, carved in hard stone, 
 and as sharp as when just finished. 
 
 There was a royal “ villa ” at Ged- 
 dington, the site of which was pro- 
 bably the “hall close” N. of the 
 church. The manor was certainly 
 in the King’s hands in 1162, but for 
 how long before that date is uncer- 
 tain. In 1177 a council was held 
 at Geddington by Henry II. to 
 treat u of the peace and stability of 
 the realm” ; and in 1188, after the 
 shock of the capture of Jerusalem, 
 the same King field a great council 
 here, in which he obtained a promise 
 of a tithe to be contributed towards 
 the Crusade. This was the last great 
 council held by Henry II. in Eng- 
 land. He went abroad in the same 
 year and never returned. In 1194 
 Kichard I. and William of Scotland 
 were here on Good Friday, and went 
 the next day to Northampton. The 
 royal manor-house must have been 
 of some size and importance, and its 
 situation within the limits of the 
 great forest of Bockingham gave it 
 special attraction. It was chosen as 
 one of the places at which the body 
 of Queen Eleanor rested (no doubt 
 in the church) on its way from 
 Harby ; and the cross still comme- 
 morates this. No account has been 
 found of the cost of erecting this 
 cross, such as exists for that at 
 Northampton (Bte. 1); but the cha- 
 
 racter of the statues is the same, 
 and the architect may have been the 
 same John de la Battaile. The 
 cross stands in the village, at the 
 junction of three roads. It is octa- 
 gonal below, and raised on seven steps ; 
 but the upper part is triangular, and 
 the outline differs altogether from 
 that of the Northampton cross or 
 from that of the cross at Waltham. 
 It has been compared with these to 
 its disparagement ; but it may very 
 well be doubted whether the general 
 effect is not better. The design of 
 the base is very good, and tire sculp- 
 ture excellent. Under the canopies 
 above, carried on slender shafts, are 
 three figures of the Queen. The 
 whole is unrestored ; sparrows have 
 built their nests on the Queen’s 
 shoulders, sprays of slender grasses 
 rise at the base of the figures, and 
 the stone is tinged with yellow 
 lichen. We have here a true relic 
 of the 13th century, with its age 
 duly stamped on it ; and for the 
 artist, the touches with which time 
 and weather have softened the out- 
 lines — fine as these still are — will 
 not lessen the effect or the interest. 
 
 [1 m. W. of Geddington is New- 
 ton-in-the- Willows, where the little 
 church was originally a private 
 chapel attached to a manor-house 
 of the Treshams, a branch of which 
 family (see Bushton, Bte. 12) was 
 settled here for many generations. 
 A dovecot, in the field adjoining the 
 church, is the sole memorial of their 
 hall at Newton. The church was 
 restored, newly roofed, and a chan- 
 cel added, in 1858. The stained 
 glass is by Clayton and Bell. There 
 is an altar-tomb for Bichard Tres- 
 ham, d. 1433, and his wife Isabel ; 
 and a brass for John Mulsho, 1400, 
 and wife (aTresham). He is kneel- 
 ing at a cross, in the head of which 
 is a figure of St. Faith, to whom the 
 cli. is ded.] 
 
 About 5 m. from Kettering, a 
 
192 
 
 Route 10 . — Kettering to Stamford , by Road . Sect. I. 
 
 little off the main road, W. is Little 
 Oakley , with an E. Eng. church, 
 restored and partly rebuilt, 1867, 
 containing some monuments for the 
 Montagu family. At 6 m., off the 
 road, E. is Stanion , where is a good 
 spire; but there is little to note 
 until we reach the picturesque village 
 of Great Weldon or, as it was called 
 from its situation in Rockingham 
 forest, Weldon - in - the - Woods. W e 
 are here in a pleasant, broken, 
 country, which extends to Rocking- 
 ham and to the river Welland, the 
 N.W. boundary of Northamptonshire. 
 The church of Great Weldon is 
 mainly E. Eng. It underwent re- 
 storation in 1852, and again in 1862, 
 when some additions were made. 
 The geologist should visit the free- 
 stone quarries in this parish, which 
 have been worked from an early 
 period. “ If we may credit the tra- 
 dition of the place, ’ says Bridges, 
 “founded on the report of skilful 
 workmen, who know the grain of this 
 stone, Old St. Paul’s Cathedral, 
 before the fire of London, was built 
 with Weldon stone.” It belongs to 
 the uppermost beds of the Inferior 
 Oolite, and is best known as “ Ketton 
 stone ” from the quarries in Rutland, 
 just beyond the Northamptonshire 
 border. This is one of the most im- 
 portant building stones in the king- 
 dom, and is composed entirely of 
 small egg-shaped grains, imbedded 
 in a calcareous matrix. It is very 
 easily worked, of a good cream- 
 colour, and very durable, hardening 
 under atmospheric exposure. St. 
 Dunstan’s Church in Fleet Street, 
 London, many of the Colleges at 
 Cambridge, and many of the North- 
 amptonshire churches are built of it. 
 It is not very fossiliferous, but has 
 yielded some fine corals. 
 
 At Weldon a road from Oundle to 
 Market Harborough crosses that on 
 which we are travelling. On this 
 road, 1| m. W. of Great Weldon, is 
 Corky , giving name to the Hundred. 
 
 The church is partly E. Eng., but 
 is of no very great interest. 
 
 We proceed 2J m. to Deene , where 
 the church well deserves a visit, 
 and where Deene Park (Countess of 
 Cardigan) and the deserted house of 
 Kirby should also be seen. Here 
 the whole country is much wooded, 
 and the views, if not wide or far 
 extending, are very pleasant. Deene 
 has been in the hands of the Bru- 
 denell family since 1514, when it 
 passed to them from the Littons, the 
 first owner of the new race being 
 Chief Justice (of the Common Pleas) 
 Robert Brudenell. His descendant, 
 Thomas, was made a baronet by 
 James I. ; and by Charles I. (1627) 
 was created Baron Brudenell, of 
 Stanton Wyville in Leicestershire. 
 He was a zealous royalist, and was 
 for some time imprisoned in the 
 Tower. In 1661, after the Restora- 
 tion, he was created Earl of Cardi- 
 gan. His descendant, the 7th Earl, 
 Lt.-Col. of the 11th Hussars, died 
 in 1868, when the title became 
 extinct. 
 
 Deene Church , surrounded by trees, 
 stands very near the hall, and w T as 
 restored by Lady Cardigan in 1869. 
 It was in fact almost rebuilt ; and 
 little of the original structure re- 
 mains beyond the main arcade and 
 the tower and spire. The general 
 character is early Dec. The piers 
 are circular, the arches fine and 
 lofty, and there is some good sculp- 
 ture. The tower and spire are early 
 Dec., and the arrangement of the 
 latter is very peculiar and beautiful . 
 The window openings at the base 
 are double, under small gables, with 
 shafts at the angles. On each gable 
 is a cross, and under each window is 
 a trefoil-headed opening, without 
 tracery. Half-way up are small 
 spire lights, also gabled. The tower 
 windows are of the same date. The 
 whole is one of the most beautiful 
 combinations even in Northampton- 
 shire. The costly restoration of the 
 
Northants. Route 10 . — Deene Church and House. 
 
 193 
 
 interior deserves especial notice. 
 In the course of the work the chancel 
 was lengthened, and the chapels 
 added. In the new Brudenell 
 Chapel, at the E. end of the S. 
 aisle, all the family monuments have 
 been collected, and a memorial of 
 the last Earl of Cardigan, by Boehm , 
 occupies the chief position. On an 
 altar-tomb with shields of arms at 
 the sides, and at the angles bronze 
 sea-horses and the Brudenell crest,* 
 are the recumbent figures, in white 
 marble, of the late Earl and his wife, 
 the surviving Countess. He is laid 
 at length. She is partly turned 
 towards him, as if asleep, with her 
 left arm under her head. The atti- 
 tude may have been to some extent 
 suggested by that of Stone’s effigy 
 in the church of Stowe (Rte. 4), 
 and the figures are fine. At the 
 ends of the tomb are bas-reliefs in 
 bronze representing the charge at 
 Balaclava, and an address to the 
 troops. Other monuments in this 
 chapel are — the first Earl of Cardi- 
 gan and two wives ; and a bust by 
 Guelfi , of a Duchess of Richmond, 
 d. 1722, daughter of Lord Brudenell. 
 (The Brudenell shield is arg., a 
 chevron between three caps of main- 
 tenance.) Here is placed a remark- 
 able reredos, dated 1635, which was 
 formerly in the chancel. It has 
 three circular panels ; of which that 
 in the centre displays a flaming 
 heart, pierced with nails. The 
 modem glass in the East window is 
 by Lavers and Barraud. The altar 
 is magnificently vested. In the 
 church-yard are two large and an- 
 cient yew-trees. 
 
 Deene Park, which is picturesque 
 and extensive, is well wooded, with 
 avenues mainly of beech and elm, 
 extending nearly to Rockingham. 
 Oaks are scattered in clumps. The 
 deer are numerous, and besides fal- 
 low there are about 100 head of red 
 deer. The house , of more than one 
 date, is built round a quadrangle, 
 and the general character is late 
 
 [Northants, &c.~\ 
 
 Tudor. The hall, perhaps temp. 
 Hen. VII., has a fine open roof. 
 The inner Court has a portal with 
 Ionic work which may be Jacobean ; 
 and there are enriched ceilings in 
 some of the rooms of the same date. 
 A room near the main entrance is 
 panelled, and has an inscription over 
 the chimney-piece, “Amicus fidelis 
 protexio (sic) fortis.” Another room 
 has the shield of Hen. VII., and the 
 words “ Vi vat Rex ; ” and in it, ac- 
 cording to the (improbable) tradition 
 of the house, it is said that King 
 Henry slept after the battle of Bos- 
 worth. A large new ball-room, with 
 much heraldic decoration, has been 
 built by Lady Cardigan. The house 
 is well arranged and comfortable, 
 and contains many Brudenell por- 
 traits, including many of the last 
 Earl of Cardigan. There is an early 
 portrait by Grant, and one in the 
 hall by Buchner. A pleasing picture 
 by Stone represents Lord Cardigan 
 explaining the charge at Balaclava 
 to the Prince Consort and the young 
 princes. A portrait of Lady Eliza- 
 beth Waldegrave by Sir Joshua 
 Reynolds should also be noticed. 
 The gardens and grounds are plea- 
 sant and extensive ; and in the latter 
 is a fine oak-tree, a tablet attached 
 to which informs us that the tree 
 was raised from an acorn found in 
 a large piece of oak in Woolwich 
 Dockyard, and planted here in 1757 
 by Lady Eliz. Montagu, afterwards 
 Duchess of Buccleuch. 
 
 More interesting than Deene, how- 
 ever, in spite of the decay and ruin 
 into which it has fallen, is the house 
 of Kirby, yet standing in the midst 
 of its woods and avenues near the 
 western extremity of Deene Park. 
 Kirby was built by Sir Christopher 
 Hatton at the same time that he 
 was building Holdenby (see Rte. 7) ; 
 or rather John Thorpe (the architect 
 of Burghley, Rte. 3) completed for 
 the Lord Keeper Hatton a house 
 which had been partly built by the 
 family of Stafford, the earlier pos- 
 
 K 
 
194 
 
 Route 10 . — Kettering to Stamford , by Road. Sect. I. 
 
 sessors of the manor. The inner 
 court was afterwards wrought into 
 its final condition in 1638, by Inigo 
 Jones, for the Lord Hatton who was 
 then Controller of the Household. 
 Kirby is at present the property of 
 the Earl of Winchelsea and Notting- 
 ham, who represents the Hattons. 
 The house was built round two 
 Courts, each of considerable archi- 
 tectural importance: and the exterior 
 elevations, with projecting oriels, 
 much Elizabethan or “ arabesque ” 
 ornament, and tall chimneys, were 
 fine. The crest of the Staffords, a 
 boar’s head rising from a ducal coro- 
 net, appears on several parts of the 
 house, and on the stables is the date 
 1590. The hall, with an open roof, 
 was in the inner court. Kirby was 
 in habitable condition as recently as 
 1820, and from its remote and yet 
 central position it was spoken of as a 
 possible retreat for the Court of 
 George III. in the event of a French 
 invasion. The house, buried in 
 deep woods, is now “ the lair and the 
 fuel of a common labourer.” It is 
 falling slowly to pieces, and yet the 
 masonry remains in all its firmness, 
 without a stone displaced, the sculp- 
 ture as sharp as the first day it was 
 carved. “A moderate and timely 
 outlay, a few years ago, would have 
 preserved a house that tens of thou- 
 sands could not now restore.” Kirby 
 is in the parish of Gretton , the church 
 of which rises N. on a ridge above 
 the Welland. There are in the 
 chancel some monuments for the 
 Hattons. 
 
 Still following the main road, we 
 reach at 11 J m. the village of Bui - 
 wich , with Bulwick Hall (Lt.-Col. 
 Tryon) on the 1. The Church, re- 
 stored in 1870, has a good Perp. 
 tower and spire. The fittings of the 
 interior, open seats, pulpit and lec- 
 tern of carved oak, and reredos of 
 alabaster and marble, are all modern. 
 [A branch road leads from Bulwick 
 to Blatherwycke, and round the park 
 to Kingsclifie (see Kte. 2). Blather- 
 
 wycke Hall (Henry de Stafford, 
 Esq.) stands high, iq the midst of a 
 pleasantly wooded country, and in a 
 large deer park. A fish pond in the 
 grounds covers an area of 58 acres. 
 The church in the park is of no 
 great interest.] 
 
 Laxton Hall (Lord Carbery) lies 
 1. of the main road, at about 14 m. 
 from Kettering. The house was 
 built from a design by J. H. Repton, 
 and contains some pictures. Laxton 
 Church , standing on the high ridge 
 which here borders the Welland, is 
 E. Eng. and Perp., and was restored 
 throughout in 1867. Adjoining the 
 main road rt. and “marching” with 
 Laxton, are the grounds of Fineshade 
 Abbey (E. H. C. Monckton, Esq.), a 
 modern house, built partly on the 
 site of a priory of Augustinian 
 Canons, founded here by Richard 
 Engayne (who died in 1208), after 
 the demolition of Castle Hymel, 
 which stood near but on higher 
 ground. This castle, of which no- 
 thing is known, was destroyed in 
 the reign of John, according to 
 Bridges, and may have been one of 
 the strongholds seized and demo- 
 lished by the King at the beginning 
 of the struggle with the barons. The 
 annual value of the Priory, at the 
 Dissolution, was 62 1. 16s. 
 
 The church of Wakerley , 1 m. 1., 
 has a Norm, chancel arch, but is 
 chiefly E. Eng. and Dec. Tixover 
 is seen on the Rutland side of the 
 Welland ; and at Buddington , a high 
 road from Peterborough toward Up- 
 pingham crosses that on which we 
 are travelling. Duddington Church , 
 restored 1844, has Norm, and E. Eng. 
 portions. There are some pictu- 
 resque old houses in the village. 
 
 At 18 m., the road passes the vil- 
 lage of Colley Weston (church re- 
 stored, 1857). This place has long 
 been famous for its slate quarries, 
 which were worked from a very 
 early period, and Colley Weston 
 slates have long formed the principal 
 roofing material of this part of Eng-* 
 
Northants. Route 11. — Kettering to Rockingham , by Road. 195 
 
 land. They are still largely used, 
 and were employed by Sir G. G. 
 Scott for the roofs of St. John’s 
 Chapel, Cambridge. The bed, which 
 belongs to the Inferior Oolite, and 
 lies at the base of the so-called Lin- 
 colnshire limestone, the uppermost 
 formation of this oolite (to which the 
 Ketton and Weldon stones, see ante , 
 belong) is thin, of calcareo-arenaceous 
 character, and “upon exposure to 
 frost, readily splits up into slates, 
 not in the planes of cleavage, as in 
 the case of Welsh or Westmorland 
 slates, but in the planes of its finely 
 laminated stratification.” — S. Sharp. 
 The quarries afford employment for 
 a large industrial population. Among 
 the more remarkable fossils found in 
 these slate-beds are, a beautiful and, 
 before its discovery here, unknown 
 winged univalve, Pterocera Bentley i ; 
 a crustacean of the genus Pseudo- 
 phyllia (a small lobster) : and a 
 unique star-fish, found by Mr. Sharp, 
 Astropecten Cotteswoldise , var. Stam- 
 fordensis. 
 
 There is little to notice between 
 Colley Weston and Stamford. The 
 road passes Wothorpe and Burgh- 
 ley (Rte. 3), and at a distance of 
 21 J m. from Kettering enters Stam- 
 ford^ described in Rte. 3. 
 
 (A railway is (1878) in course of 
 construction from Seaton, in Rutland, 
 to Wansford, near Peterborough ; 
 passing by Wakerley, Fineshade, 
 and Kingscliffe.) 
 
 ROUTE 11. 
 
 KETTERING TO ROCKINGHAM. 
 
 By Boad. 
 
 The distance from Kettering to 
 Rockingham is 9 m. 
 
 At about 2 m. a road turns off 1. 
 
 to (1 m.) Glendon Hall (Richard 
 Booth, Esq.), a house containing 
 some interesting pictures, the most 
 important of which is the portrait of 
 Queen Catherine Parr, by Holbein. 
 This is a full length, on panel, 70 
 by 34 inches. The under dress is 
 richly patterned. The outer is 
 damasked, open in front, with 
 wide furred sleeves ; rich jewels, 
 and a jewelled headdress are worn, 
 and a pink is held between 
 the hands. Catherine Parr was the 
 youngest daughter of Sir Thomas 
 Parr of Kendal, and Maud Green of 
 Green’s Norton, near Towcester (see 
 Rte. 5), where the future queen was 
 possibly, born. This portrait (en- 
 graved in Baker) probably came to 
 Glendon through its former posses- 
 sors, the Lanes; one of whom, Sir 
 Ralph Lane, married Maud, daugh- 
 ter of Lord Parr, the Queen’s uncle, 
 whose monument remains in Horton 
 Church. (See Beds., Rte. 5.)— The 
 other pictures here are — a “ Lucretia,” 
 assigned to Leonardo da Vinci ; 
 Morning and Evening, ATbano ; 
 Head of the Magdalene, Carlo Dolce ; 
 a Spanish boy, Murillo; two un- 
 known portraits, Janssen; Lord 
 Holland, the Countess of Pembroke, 
 and an unknown head, Vandyck; 
 “ The Enraged Prisoner,” and a 
 head of an old man (both from 
 Stowe), Rembrandt; and a land- 
 scape, also from Stowe, by Gaspar 
 Poussin . — Glendon is a small dis- 
 tinct parish, but has long been with- 
 out a church. 
 
 At 4J m. from Kettering we reach 
 Great Oakley. (For Rushton, which 
 lies about 1 m. left of the road, see 
 Rte. 12.) The Church of Great 
 Oakley contains some monuments 
 for the family of Brooke, whose 
 ancient seat, Oakley Hall (Sir Wil- 
 liam de Capell Brooke, Bart.) is a 
 little N. of the village. It dates 
 from 1555, and is a square building, 
 much covered with ivy. 1J m. W. 
 of Oakley is the site of Pipewell 
 Abbey , a Cistercian house founded 
 k 3 
 
196 Boute 11 . — Kettering to Booking ham, by Boad. Sect. I. 
 
 toward the end of the reign of 
 Stephen by William Butevileyn. A 
 great council was held here by 
 Richard I. in Sept. 1189, the first 
 held by him after his' accession. 
 Nearly all the English and Irish 
 bishops were present, besides abbots 
 and priors, and a great number of 
 laymen. The vacant bishoprics 
 were filled; and money raised for 
 the crusade. Pipewell stood in the 
 midst of the Rockingham forest ; so 
 that the weariness of state business 
 might be lightened by the royal 
 chase. The Abbey was well en- 
 dowed; and at the Dissolution its 
 clear annual value was 283L There 
 are no remains whatever, and but 
 scanty traces of ancient foundations. 
 
 Beyond Oakley the road climbs 
 the ridge of higher land on the 
 border of the county ; and, skirting 
 the park of Bochingliam, soon reaches 
 the village and church. (The station 
 for Rockingham, on the railway 
 between Market Harborough and 
 Stamford, is on the opposite bank of 
 the river Welland, about \ m. from 
 the village. See Rte. 13.) The 
 Castle of Rockingham and the 
 Church are here the great objects of 
 interest. 
 
 The steep village street climbs the 
 ridge of oolite which borders the 
 alluvial valley of the Welland, with 
 its broad meadows and lines of trees. 
 On the crest of the ridge stands 
 Bochingham Castle (G. L. Watson, 
 Esq.) ; and immediately below it is 
 the church. The village, with its 
 well-kept houses, its gardens, and its 
 trees, is pleasant and attractive. An 
 old house near the western entrance, 
 now much altered, was once the chief 
 “ hostel,” such an one as is frequently 
 found on the outskirts of so import- 
 ant a stronghold as this of Rocking- 
 ham. (Compare the hostel at 
 Fotheringhay, Rte. 2.) As the 
 village and church were dependen- 
 cies of the Castle , that may be first 
 noticed. 
 
 Rockingham Castle was founded 
 
 by the direct order of the Conqueror, 
 in the midst of a great forest district, 
 which had been a royal hunting- 
 ground before the days of the Con- 
 fessor. “Rex Willelmus jussit ibi 
 Castellum fieri ” is the entry in 
 Domesday. There is a tradition 
 that the Castle was thus erected for 
 the protection of ironworks which 
 were then numerous within the limits 
 of the forest; but the natural im- 
 portance of the site is sufficiently 
 marked; and the Norman castle, as 
 in many . other places, rose within 
 earthworks of a far more ancient, 
 probably ‘British, period. (Lines of 
 these earthworks are still very evi- 
 dent above the church, and immedi- 
 ately outside the present castle wall. 
 They extend westward.) The height 
 commanded what may have been a 
 ford of the Welland, or at least a 
 place where the river was crossed; 
 and as a watchtower it overlooked a 
 great part of the valley. The first 
 notice of Rockingham, after Domes- 
 day, is in March, 1094, when a great 
 council was held “in the chapel 
 within the castle,” chiefly with refer- 
 ence to the recognition of the Pope, 
 Urban II., and to the position with 
 respect to him of Anselm, who had 
 been consecrated Abp. of Canter- 
 bury, Dec. 4, 1093, but had not yet 
 received his pall. (There were still 
 two rival Popes ; and Wibert or 
 Clement was held to be the lawful 
 Pontitf by the Imperialists. William 
 Rufus had not yet recognized either.) 
 The scene at Rockingham between 
 Anselm and the Red King is vividly 
 described by Eadmer, Hist. Nov. 26, 
 who gives us “ living pictures of the 
 Red King’s most trusty advisers, both 
 clerical and lay.” The council broke 
 up without coming to any real deci- 
 sion on the questions at issue. A 
 truce was patched up, and such sub- 
 mission as Anselm made was made 
 with a reservation of his duty to 
 Pope Urban. (See Dean Church’s 
 “ Anselm ” for the best notice of this 
 famous scene, and of its bearings on 
 
197 
 
 Northants. Route 11 . — Rockingham Castle , 
 
 the great ecclesiastical questions of 
 the time.) The castle was frequently- 
 visited by later kings, with whom it 
 was in favour, like Northampton, for 
 the sake of the surrounding forests. 
 John was constantly here ; Hen. III. 
 Edw. I. and Edw. II. often. Edward 
 III. paid many visits to Rockingham ; 
 and in 1375 he ratified here the 
 truce concluded at Bruges between 
 himself and Charles Y. of France. 
 Rockingham was a royal castle : and 
 the names of its constables (appointed 
 for life, during the King’s pleasure, 
 or for a term of three years) have 
 been recorded (see Hartshorne 1 s 
 “Rockingham”) from a.d. 1199 to 
 1475, when William, Lord Hastings, 
 received that office for his life. It 
 was occasionally used for the safe 
 keeping of prisoners ; and after the 
 fight at Dunbar (24 Edw. I.) the, Con- 
 stable was ordered to receive and to 
 keep in safe custody several of those 
 who had been taken in Dunbar 
 Castle. Numerous records exist of 
 repairs and additions to Rockingham 
 Castle. These will be found in the 
 late Mr. Hartshorne’s (privately 
 printed) account of Rockingham. 
 They do not, however, greatly illus- 
 trate existing remains. A u new 
 tower” and “new chamber” are 
 mentioned in 1214 ; and extensive 
 repairs were carried on during the 
 constableship of Richard de Hole- 
 broc (1280-1283). There were fre- 
 quent grants of timber from the 
 royal forest for carpenter’s work at 
 the Castle. It may be as well to 
 quote here part of Leland’s descrip- 
 tion in 1545. “ The castelle,” he 
 says, “ standith on the toppe of an 
 hille right stately, and hath a mighty 
 diche, and bullewarks agayne with- 
 out the diche. The keep is exceed- 
 ing fair and strong, and in the walles 
 be certain strong towers. The lodg- 
 ings that were within the area of the 
 castelle be discovered (uncovered) 
 and faul to mine (fall into ruin). 
 One thing in the waulles of this 
 castelle is much to be notid; that 
 
 they be embattled on booth, so that 
 if the area of the castelle were won 
 by coming in at either of the two 
 greate gates of the castelle, yet the 
 keepers of the waulles might defend 
 the castelle. I marked that there is 
 a strong tower in the area of the 
 castelle, and from it, over the dungeon 
 dike, is a drawbridge to the dungeon 
 toure.” 
 
 Very much of the castle has per- 
 ished since Leland wrote this de- 
 scription. One of the “ greate gates,” 
 however, remains ; the mound of the 
 keep or “ dungeon toure ” may still 
 be climbed: and the buildings in 
 the first court, which were then 
 “falling to ruin,” were soon after- 
 wards repaired and enlarged, and 
 now form the habitable mansion. 
 The massive entrance gateway is 
 perhaps the most interesting portion 
 of the building. It dates from 1275, 
 and consists of an arch flanked by 
 two circular bastion towers, with 
 curtain walls extending on either 
 side. The towers are pierced with 
 what are known as “ arblast holes,” 
 though it is difficult to see how they 
 can have been used by bowmen. 
 Fragments of Norman carving are 
 worked into the walls. This gate- 
 way admits us to the outer bailey or 
 court of the castle — now containing 
 the inhabited buildings. These oc- 
 cupy two sides ; a third is formed by 
 the gateway ; and along the fourth is 
 a raised terrace overlooking the val- 
 ley. The buildings are partly of 
 the 13th century (like the gateway) 
 and partly of the 16th ; much addi- 
 tion and rebuilding having taken 
 place in 1585. The entrance door- 
 way has an equilateral arch, with 
 deep mouldings and shafts, and 
 belongs to the former period. Im- 
 mediately opposite, a door of simi- 
 lar character communicated with 
 the inner court. A deep chimney 
 is buttressed out from the hall ; 
 and two 13th-cent. windows have 
 been found adjoining. All this 
 clearly indicates that the exist- 
 
198 Boute 11 . — Kettering to 
 
 ing hall, now Elizabethan in charac- 
 ter, occupies the site of an earlier 
 one, and retains much of the original 
 walls. The rest of the house is for 
 the most part Elizabethan. The 
 inner court, to which we may pass 
 through the hall, is now intersected 
 by a yew hedge of venerable anti- 
 quity ; and at its further end is the 
 keep mound, possibly part of the old 
 British works. The whole enclo- 
 sure, containing about 3J acres, is 
 bounded by a wall once nearly 9 ft. 
 thick ; portions of which remain in 
 their original condition. (The chapel 
 of St. Leonard, “intra castellum,” 
 in which the great council was held, 
 stood probably between the main 
 buildings and the keep, above the 
 present cellars.) 
 
 The manor of Bockingham, of 
 which the history is closely woven 
 with that of the castle, passed 
 through various hands, until, in the 
 middle of the 16th cent, it came to 
 Sir Edward Watson — who also re- 
 ceived the castle from the crown. 
 His son, Sir Lewis Watson, gar- 
 risoned the place for Charles I. ; 
 and was afterwards (1645) created 
 Baron Bockingham of Bockingham. 
 In 1714 the then Baron, another 
 Lewis Watson, was made Earl of 
 Bockingham. This earldom became 
 extinct in 1746 ; but the barony 
 passed to the last earl’s cousin, 
 Thomas Watson Wentworth, created 
 in 1746 Marquis of Bockingham. 
 His son, the 2nd Marquis, who 
 died in 1782, was the chief of the 
 Bockingham Administration, in 
 which Fox and Burke had places. 
 The manor and castle of Bocking- 
 ham, however, have from the time of 
 the first baron been vested in the 
 Watson family, which still retains 
 them. The existing relics and 
 'pictures in the castle are conse- 
 quently of this house. The hall 
 was brought to its present condition 
 in the reign of Elizabeth ; and, be- 
 sides the mottoes of the family, an 
 inscription is carried along the prin- 
 
 Bockingham , by Boad. Sect. I. 
 
 cipal beams. — “The howse shal be 
 preserved and never wil decay e 
 wheare the Almightie God is 
 honoured and served daye by daye, 
 1579.” In this hall and rooms open- 
 ing from it are — portrait of Sir 
 Jeffry Palmer, Attorney-General of 
 Charles II. ; Queen Elizabeth, in a 
 brocaded (striped) dress of dark 
 chocolate colour. From a rope of 
 large pearls round her waist hangs a 
 jewel which she holds up. The face 
 is shadowless. Sir Edward Digby 
 Watson: on one side are the words, 
 “ Cuivis dolori remedium patiencia, 
 A. Dni 1552”; on the other, “Se- 
 cundum formam et liabitum setatis 
 suse xxxiii. ,, Three boys at cricket 
 (?) or some similar game ; assigned 
 to Gainsborough ; and a small por- 
 trait called that of Elizabeth when 
 21 months old, but questionably. 
 She is in a brocaded dress of red 
 and white, with a large white apron, 
 ruff, cap, and collar edged with lace 
 work. The eyes are brown, and 
 there is a little light brown hair. 
 In the left hand is a cluster of red 
 rose-berries. The ground is a Turkey 
 carpet. On the picture is the inscrip- 
 tion, “ML 1^.” Observe also a curi- 
 ous portrait of Sir Edward Watson, 
 blind, with both hands extended in 
 prayer; date 1567. The upper part 
 of the range of buildings at right 
 angles to the hall is occupied by a 
 long gallery with windows at the 
 sides and a large window at the end, 
 the usual gallery of an Elizabethan 
 house, here very picturesque. Three 
 chandeliers of Venetian glass hang 
 from the roof. Among the pictures 
 here are — Lord Strafford (J, in 
 armour), Vandych. Miss Milles, 
 afterwards 3rd Lady Sondes (seated, 
 in white, blue sash and tall bonnet ; 
 landscape background), Sir J. Bey - 
 nolds. Henry Pelham, Chancellor 
 of the Exchequer, d. 1754. and secre- 
 tary (a good picture, the arrange- 
 ment evidently imitated from the 
 famous Vandyck of Strafford). His 
 
199 
 
 Northants. Boute 11 . — Bocldngham Castle . 
 
 wife, Lady Catherine Pelham, A. 
 Kauffman. (These were the father 
 and mother of the 2nd Lady Sondes.) 
 A large family group of Lord and 
 Lady Sondes and four children ; 
 date 1732, Hudson. 
 
 The castle has been to some 
 extent restored, and additions have 
 been made, under the care of Salvin ; 
 but the main frontage has been little 
 touched, and a grand mass of ivy 
 drapes the side of the gallery. Steps 
 lead to the keep mound, which rises 
 from the flower garden. Gardens 
 and giounds are extensive and very 
 pleasant, rich in wood-walks and 
 shruboeries. The park, of about 
 400 acres, is well stocked with deer. 
 Beyond the enclosing wall, and 
 overlooked from the keep, is a 
 meadow known as the tilting ground, 
 surrounded by trees (on one side by 
 a fine avenue of limes). On the S. 
 side is a moat, and a second moat 
 occurs at a distance of about 70 yds. 
 Thu park is much broken, and deep 
 ravines stretch downward toward 
 the river flats from the ridge over 
 which the park extends, chiefly W. 
 of the castle. There are some fine 
 avenues, dating for the most part from 
 the first half of the last century, when 
 Duke John “ the Planter ” was busy 
 at Boughton (see Rte. 10). The 
 position of the castle is best seen 
 from the terrace that extends in 
 front of the hall-entrance. “Any- 
 where, the high site of Rockingham, 
 backed with its avenues of limes 
 and groups of forest trees, would be 
 a fine one ; but in Northamptonshire, 
 the wild and broken ground of the 
 park, and the abrupt slopes and 
 earthworks on which the castle 
 stands, make it signally unique. . . . 
 The distant prospect indeed is not 
 of rich woodland ; but the long 
 reach of the valley of the Welland, 
 marked, but not marred, by the 
 graceful sweep of the railway, with 
 village after village grouped round 
 its church on every rising ground, 
 .... present a scene of wider and 
 
 more human interest than many a 
 so-called richer view.” — James. The 
 scene in certain lights is fine; and 
 when the river is flooded the effect 
 is lake-like. The low hills of Lei- 
 cestershire rise across the river. 
 Holt, a house of the Nevilles, and 
 Stoke Dry, belonging to the Digbys 
 (who intermarried with Watsons), 
 are conspicuous; and the tower of 
 Langton is a good landmark. (Stil- 
 ton is not in sight ; but it may be 
 added that Stilton cheese is made 
 on the Northamptonshire side of the 
 Welland, as well as in Leicester- 
 shire.) 
 
 Close under the castle, on the N. 
 side, stands the parish Church of 
 Rockingham, ded. (like the ancient 
 chapel of the castle) to St. Leonard 
 (a great forest saint, it may be re- 
 membered. Chapels ded. to him 
 frequently occur in wide woodlands). 
 This ch. has been rebuilt — the nave 
 in 1845, the chancel in 1868. 
 (Archit. Browning , of Stamford. 
 The restoration is due to the Watson 
 family, and to the zeal of the present 
 (1877) rector, the Rev. H. J. Bigge.) 
 Portions of an early Dec. church 
 were found during the rebuilding in 
 1845; but the building then removed 
 dated from after the Restoration, 
 since the old church had been in 
 great part destroyed during a bom- 
 bardment of the castle (held for 
 the King by Sir Lewis Watson) by 
 the Parliamentarians. The present 
 church is very effective, and is of 
 early Dec. character, with a low 
 tower (the upper story octagonal) at 
 the E. end of the N. side of nave. 
 The seating is good, and the effect 
 of the chancel, decorated and colour- 
 ed throughout, excellent. Even 
 the two large Watson monuments, 
 N. and S., out of place as they are, 
 give furnishing to the chancel. The 
 stained glass of the East window (a 
 memorial to the Hon. R. Watson, 
 d. 1853) is by Heaton and. Butler , 
 and there are other windows by 
 Hedg eland and O'Connor. The iron 
 
200 Route 12.— Wellingborough to Market Harborough. Sect. I. 
 
 rail in front of the altar was the gift 
 to the church of Lady Catherine 
 Pelham, circ. 1730. The plate also 
 was given by her. (Her portrait in 
 the castle has been noticed.) 
 
 Of the monuments , that on the N. 
 side of the chancel is a full-length 
 figure of Anna, Baroness Rocking- 
 ham, d. 1695, wife of the 2nd Baron, 
 daughter of Lord Stratford. On the 
 S. side is that of Lewis, 1st Earl of 
 Rockingham, d. 1723 — and of his 
 wife, Katherine, d. 1695, daughter of 
 Sir George Sondes, afterwards Earl 
 of Feversham. Earl Lewis is in a 
 44 Roman habit.” His wife has a 
 book under the rt. arm. Cupids, 
 wreaths, and marble flowers, make up 
 the composition. Other monuments, 
 formerly in the chancel, have been 
 removed into a chapel on the S. side. 
 These are — Margaret Watson, fourth 
 daughter of Edward, Lord Rocking- 
 ham, d. 1713, a twisted figure with 
 strained action ; an altar-tomb with 
 recumbent effigies of Edw. Watson 
 (temp. Eliz.) and his wife, daughter 
 of Kenelm Digby of Stoke Dry; 
 Arabella Osenden, d. 1731, second 
 daughter of the 2nd Baron Rock- 
 ingham, a full-length figure in white 
 marble; and many mural tablets, 
 including those of three Viscounts 
 Sondes. (This was a second title 
 borne by the Earls of Rockingham. 
 The grandson (maternally) of the 
 1st Earl was created Baron Sondes, 
 and he assumed the name of Watson 
 on inheriting the estates of his 
 cousin, the 3rd and last Earl of 
 Rockingham.) 
 
 The royal forest of Rockingham 
 was one of the largest in the king- 
 dom. According to a perambulation 
 of 1286 (14th Edw. I.) it extended 
 from Northampton to Stamford, in 
 length about 33 miles, and from the 
 Nen on the S.E., to the rivers Wel- 
 land and Maidesell on the N.W., an 
 average breadth of about 8 miles. 
 But much of this country had been 
 afforested after the accession of 
 Hen. II. ; and a later perambulation 
 
 in the reign of Edw. I. considerably 
 reduces the extent. An unsuccessful 
 attempt to revive the older limits 
 was made in the 17th of Charles I. ; 
 and the bounds were then (settled 
 “ as they had been in the 20fh year 
 of Jas. I.” The forest now Consists 
 of three separate districts, caled the 
 Bailiwicks of Rockingham Brig- 
 stock, and Clive. There sre still 
 deer, although their numbersare not 
 great; and in spite of much flenud ac- 
 tion and reclamation of land, “ many 
 venerable trees, scattered through 
 the unreclaimed district, tcwering 
 above the underwood, serve ti> point 
 out the ancient boundaries.’ 1 But 
 this old forest country has no such 
 glades and no such oaks as Sher- 
 wood ; and the wanderer will hardly 
 find his account in tracing its limits 
 beyond the park of the castle. 
 
 (For places in the neighbourhood 
 of Rockingham, to be reached from 
 the railway station, see Rte. 13.) 
 
 ROUTE 12. 
 
 WELLINGBOROUGH TO MARKET 
 HARBOROUGH. 
 
 Midland Railway. 
 
 There are branch lines of the Mid- 
 land Railway, from Wellingborough 
 to Kettering, and from Kettering to 
 Market Harborough. The entire 
 distance is 17 J miles. The time oc- 
 cupied is 50 min. Some interesting 
 churches may be visited from the 
 intermediate stations, and Rushton 
 and Rothwell are best accessible by 
 this railway. 
 
Northants. 
 
 Boute 12 . — Harrowden — Finedon . 
 
 201 
 
 L. of the railway, after leaving 
 Wellingborough, are the churches of 
 Great and Little Harrowden , neither 
 of great importance, yet not without 
 interest. The chancel of Great Har- 
 rowden (2 m. by road from Welling- 
 borough) was rebuilt in 1845. There 
 is a brass for William “Harwedon,” 
 1433, and his widow. Harrowden 
 Hall was the house of Lord Vaux, 
 whose daughter by his first wife was 
 conspicuous for her attachment to 
 the Jesuit Garnet, at the time of the 
 Gunpowder Plot ; she was one of the 
 remarkable party which went on pil- 
 grimage to St. Winifred’s well, in Sep- 
 tember 1605, and she was examined 
 on Garnet’s trial. Sir William Yaux 
 of Harrowden was created a baron in 
 1523. The house of Lord Yaux was 
 carefully searched after the discovery 
 of the plot, but nothing was found to 
 implicate him, and it was not pre- 
 tended that his daughter had known 
 of it. Little Harrowden , restored 
 1850, is partly E. Eng. [1 m. N. W. 
 from Little Harrowden is the Ch. 
 of Orlingbury , with much E. Eng. 
 work. It was in part rebuilt and en- 
 larged in 1843. In the chancel is a 
 tomb with effigy, circa 1375, called 
 that of “Jock of Batsaddle,” who died, 
 says the local tradition, from drinking 
 cold water at a spring now called 
 Batsaddle Spring, after killing a wolf 
 and a wild boar in the meadow near 
 his house. Batsaddle was a moated 
 manor-house in the parish.] We 
 reach the first station at 
 
 3 m. Finedon (Ting dene in 
 Domesday, and still sometimes called 
 Thingdon). The Church (ded. to St. 
 Mary the Virgin) stands prominently 
 on a hill above the line, and well 
 deserves a visit, since it is architec- 
 turally one of the best in this part of 
 Northamptonshire. It is surrounded 
 by old yew-trees mixed with hollies ; 
 and a long avenue leading to it is 
 known as the “ Holly Walk.” The 
 church is throughout early Dec. (be- 
 ginning of the 14th cent.), with the 
 
 exception of the western tower and 
 spire, an entirely distinct work, not 
 earlier than 1350. The ground-plan 
 shows the broad short nave and the 
 well-developed chancel displayed by 
 so many churches in the county. 
 The most remarkable feature of the 
 interior is the strainer or straining 
 arch at the E. end of the nave. The 
 tower is of four stories, with buttresses 
 of five stages, terminating under the 
 belfry. There are single windows in 
 the 3rd story (above the W. door 
 and the great W. window); and in 
 the belfry stage are tall double-win- 
 dows, with a quatrefoil in the head- 
 ing. Bands of rich panelling are 
 introduced in the third stage and 
 above the belfry lights, and the tower 
 finishes in a kind of trefoiled corbel 
 table, above which is an embattled 
 parapet. The height thus far is 76 
 ft. The spire, with two series of two- 
 light windows, rises to 133 ft. The 
 whole composition, of one date, is 
 very rich and beautiful. Outside the 
 church the same basement moulding 
 is carried quite round ; the buttresses 
 project boldly and are good. The 
 windows in the aisles and chancel 
 have elongated, uncusped, reticulated 
 tracery ; the others (in the transepts) 
 are of three acutely pointed uncusped 
 lights. Within , the nave of 4 bays 
 has lofty piers of a quatrefoiled sec- 
 tion, with moulded capitals, except 
 that at the S.W. corner of the S. 
 transept, which has very good foliage 
 proceeding from the mouth of a mask. 
 The straining arch “ was not inserted 
 until the clerestory had been visibly 
 thrust in, and the ingenuity with 
 which the remedy of a serious defect 
 has been converted into a great 
 ornament cannot be too much com- 
 mended.” It is much enriched with 
 quatrefoils and a battlemented 
 moulding, and resembles the arch 
 introduced for a similar reason at 
 Rushden (Kte. 2). The mouldings 
 are the same, though the designs are 
 slightly varied. A low stone screen, 
 with open work, extends across the 
 k 3 
 
202 Route 12. — Wellingborough to Market Harbor ougli. Sect. I. 
 
 chancel arch. It had no doubt an 
 arch over the central door, which lias 
 disappeared. There is a curious 
 Norman font with a sculpture of the 
 Annunciation. The original open 
 seats, of late Perp. character, remain 
 in the nave and aisles, and have 
 (what is very unusual) doors carved 
 in the same manner as the bench- 
 ends. The church contains a chest 
 (not of ecclesiastical character) inlaid 
 with ebony and ivory. In it is kept 
 a basin, used sometimes for baptism, 
 of mother-of-pearl and silver. There 
 are no monuments of interest. At 
 the time the church was built, a 
 nephew of Bishop Burnell, Chancel- 
 lor to Ed. I., had property in Finedon, 
 and if he inherited his uncle’s love 
 of building he may have displayed 
 it here. The church, from about 
 1349, was appropriated to Croxden 
 Abbey in Staffordshire ; but Cister- 
 cians would hardly have built so en- 
 riched a tower. The parvise chamber , 
 above the S. porch, contains a library 
 founded by Sir John English Dolben 
 in 1788. There are some good edi- 
 tions of the Fathers, and a copy of 
 Wilkin’s ‘Concilia/ It should be 
 added that the organ, built by Chris- 
 topher Shrider, son-in-law of “ Father 
 Smith,” was opened (May 17, 1717) 
 by Dr. Croft ; and that Kent, the 
 writer of many well-known anthems, 
 was the first organist. 
 
 S. of the village is Finedon Hall 
 (Mrs. Dolben), the grounds of which 
 deserve notice. There is an arbore- 
 tum of considerable extent, a very 
 fine triple avenue of lime-trees nearly 
 i m. long, and a large sheet of water, 
 the resort in winter of large flocks of 
 wild fowl. Ironstone is much worked 
 in this neighbourhood, and there are 
 large works belonging to the “ Glen- 
 don Iron Company ” very near Fine- 
 don. 
 
 A short course of 1 m. brings us to 
 the station for 
 
 Isham and Burton Latimer. 
 
 The Church of Isham ( the ham or 
 “ home ” on the Ise brook) lies 1. of 
 
 the railway, and has Norm, and E. 
 Eng. portions. It was restored in 
 1870, but has not the interest of 
 Burton Latimer church, which lies 
 rt. This is a large church of various 
 dates, with a nave of 6 bays and a 
 half, and a well-developed chancel. 
 The first three bays and a half (west- 
 ward) are Norman ; the W. tower was 
 added early in the 13th cent. ; and 
 toward the close of the same century 
 the Norman ch. (except the 3 bays 
 just mentioned) was pulled down, 
 and the present nave and chancel 
 constructed. Some alteration took 
 place afterwards, in Perpendicular 
 days. The tower is throughout 
 of E. Eng. character, with blank 
 arcades and good windows. (The 
 door on the N. side is a Dec. inser- 
 tion.) The battlements and spire 
 are later. Within the church there 
 is a curious mixture of Norm, and 
 E. Eng. work, especially at the junc- 
 tion of the two styles. 
 
 We pass onward, leaving Barton 
 Seagrave , with its interesting Norm, 
 church, to the rt. (see Kte. 9) to 
 
 2f m. Kettering , where is a junc- 
 tion with the rly. coming from Hunt- 
 ingdon and Thrapston (see Bte. 14). 
 (For Kettering see Rte. 9 ; and for 
 the country north of it, Rte. 10.) 
 
 The first station beyond Kettering 
 is 2f m., Bushton. A line in con- 
 nexion with the Midland Rly. is 
 (1878) in course of construction, from 
 Rush ton to Manton in Rutland. (The 
 churches of ThorpeMalsor, Loddington 
 and Orton are passed at some distance 
 1., but contain little of interest. Orton 
 is a chapelry attached to Roth well, 
 and the chancel arch is Norm.) The 
 points of interest at Rushton are the 
 Church , seen before reaching the 
 station, and the Triangular Lodge, 
 the very curious building of Sir 
 Thomas Tresham. From Rushton 
 may be visited the market-town of 
 Bothwell (2 m. S.W.), where the 
 Market-house and the Church well 
 deserve attention. 
 
 The manor of Rushton passed with 
 
North ants. 
 
 Route 12 .—Rushton Hall . 
 
 203 
 
 other estates into the hands of Sir 
 William Tresham about 1428. The 
 family was one of considerable im- 
 portance ; and Bridges, who gives 
 a pedigree for seven generations, 
 reckons among the Treshams six 
 sheriffs and five members for North- 
 amptonshire. The history of Sir 
 Thomas Tresham, the builder of the 
 lodge here, and of the “ new build- 
 ing ” at Lyveden, has been partly 
 given in Rte. 2 {Lyveden). Although 
 the Treshams had been strongly 
 attached to the “ old religion,” Sir 
 Thomas, who succeeded to the estates 
 as a minor, had for some unknown 
 reason been brought up as a Protes- 
 tant, but soon (under the influence 
 of Campion and Parsons) returned to 
 his church, and underwent through- 
 out his life a long series of pains and 
 penalties. He was frequently im- 
 prisoned and fined, and for 20 years 
 it is asserted that he paid regularly 
 into the treasury £260 a year for re- 
 cusancy. Writing to Lord Howard 
 about two years before his death, he 
 said that “he had completed his 
 triple apprenticeship in direct adver- 
 sity, and that the years seemed to 
 him but a few days, for the love he 
 bore his beautiful, beloved, and grace- 
 ful Rachael,” — meaning the Catholic 
 Church. He was last imprisoned in 
 Dec. 1596, and discharged Dec. 8, 
 1597. He died in September, 1605, 
 and was succeeded by his eldest son 
 Francis, the conspirator. Of his six 
 daughters, two married the Lords 
 Stourton and Mounteagle, whose 
 names are both connected with the 
 Gunpowder Plot. There is no reason 
 for believing that Sir Thomas Tres- 
 ham knew anything of this plot. 
 The part which his son played in it 
 has been thoroughly shown in Jar - 
 dine’s 6 History of the Gunpowder 
 Plot,’ the best and fullest account 
 which exists. It is probable that 
 the famous warning letter to Lord 
 Mounteagle was written by this 
 Francis Tresham, who died in prison, 
 December 23, 1605. The Rushton 
 
 Estates were then confiscated, and 
 were afterwards bought by Sir Wil- 
 liam Cockayne. They are now the 
 property of W. C. Clarke Thornhill, 
 Esq., of Rushton Hall. 
 
 Rushton Hall is built round three 
 sides of a quadrangle ; the fourth 
 side being closed by a “ Doric ” 
 screen. The house was begun by 
 Sir Thomas Tresham about 1595 ; 
 was continued by the Cockaynes, and 
 finished in 1630. (The date 1595 
 occurs on one of the gables. Other 
 parts bear the shield of the Cock- 
 aynes, and the dates 1626, 1627.) 
 There is a belief that John Dry den 
 visited Rushton on different occa- 
 sions, and that he wrote some part 
 of the ‘Hind and Panther* here. 
 The old home of the Treshams would 
 have been no unfitting place for the 
 meditation of that poem ; but no 
 extant letter of Drydeffs, and no 
 other authority, asserts that he was 
 ever at Rushton. A curious discovery 
 was made in the house of Rushton 
 in 1832. In removing a lintel above 
 a doorway a Roman breviary fell out. 
 Farther search revealed an opening 
 in a thick stone wall, 5 ft. long and 
 15 in. wide, containing about 20 
 books and several bundles of MSS. 
 The books were chiefly books of devo- 
 tion. The MSS. consisted of histori- 
 cal notes by Sir Thomas Tresham, 
 building bills, deed, and farming con- 
 tracts ; a portion of the domestic 
 correspondence of the Tresham family 
 between 1590 and 1605 ; and a 
 memorandum of certain bonds “ de- 
 livered up to Mrs. Tresham, Nov. 28th, 
 1605, by the writer of the memoran- 
 dum,” who signs no name. This 
 Mrs. Tresham was the wife of Francis 
 the conspirator ; and the books and 
 papers were no doubt concealed when 
 it was expected that Rushton would 
 be searched, like the houses of 
 others concerned in the plot. (A 
 calendar of the papers, which seem 
 to be of no great historical impor- 
 tance, has been printed by Taylor of 
 Northampton.) 
 
204 Route 12. — Wellingborough to Market Harbor ough. Sect. ^ 
 
 Tlie “ building bills ” of Sir 
 Thomas might, however, be expected 
 to throw some light on the curious 
 Triangular Lodge which was cer- 
 tainly built by him, and which is 
 mentioned in the pocket-book of Cap- 
 tain Richard Symonds, the Royalist 
 (printed by the Camden Soe. 1859) 
 thus — “ Rushton. — Sir Thomas Tres- 
 ham built part of this faire house, 
 and also the pretty Warren-house.’’ 
 (Symonds saw it on his march, 8 
 days before Naseby.) The “Warren 
 House ” is no doubt the Lodge. 
 For Sir Thomas’s passion for build- 
 ing, and his love of mystical sculp- 
 ture and devices, see Lyveden , Rte. 2. 
 The “ fancies” displayed at Lyve- 
 den were carried to a far greater 
 excess in this lodge at Rushton; 
 and it has been suggested that both 
 buildings were the result of his posi- 
 tion as a persecuted “ recusant.” 
 “ He was not allowed to have the 
 mass celebrated in his own house, 
 nor could he openly build a chapel 
 for the purpose; so he erected near 
 each of his principal mansions a 
 building with more or less of a reli- 
 gious as well as a secular character 
 about it, that under the latter it 
 might the better escape notice, but 
 be fitted, when it could be done with 
 safety, to be used for the purposes 
 of religion.’ ’ — Rev. H. Ward. The 
 lodge stands at the extremity of the 
 grounds, near the railway, about § m. 
 from the house. The building itself, 
 and every part of it, is emblematical 
 of the Holy Trinity. The ground- 
 plan is an equilateral triangle, each 
 side measuring 33 ft. 3 in. There 
 are 3 floors, cellar, ground-floor, and 
 upper floor ; 3 windows in each story 
 on each of the 3 sides, and each of 
 these windows has divisions or com- 
 partments of threes. The shields of 
 arms are arranged on each side in 
 twice three couplets in 3 lines. Each 
 of the long Latin inscriptions consists 
 of 33 letters ; and the single words 
 below them are three sets of two 
 letters on each face of the building. 
 
 The trefoil of the Tresham arms is 
 indicated in the form of the windows 
 in the lowest and uppermost stages. 
 The roof is finished with 3 gables on 
 either side, each gable carrying a 
 pinnacle terminating in a trefoil. 
 There is a central pinnacle, the sides 
 of which are covered with trefoils. 
 On the S.E. side is the door, ap- 
 proached by a flight of steps, and 
 entering on the 2nd story. The 
 various shields, devices, and inscrip- 
 tions will occupy some time in read- 
 ing. Below the windows of the 2nd 
 story are the date 1593, and the 
 initials of the builder, T. T The 
 side containing the entrance. — On the 
 1st gable are the figures 3898, and 
 underneath them the seven-branched 
 candlestick. On the 2nd gable, 
 “ Respicite ” and a sun-dial. On the 
 3rd, 3509 and the stone with seven 
 eyes upon it (Zech. iii. 9). Under 
 the gables runs the inscription, 
 “ Aperiatur terra et germinet salva- 
 torem” (Isaiah xlv. 8); and above 
 the windows, the letters of the word 
 “Mentes,” part of the inscription 
 “Mentes tuorum visita,” one word of 
 which is on each side. Above the 
 door is a shield with the Tresham 
 arms, the inscription “ Tres Testi- 
 monium dant,” and four large figures 
 of 5. N.E. side. — On the gables are 
 a hen with chicken, a dial, and a 
 pelican in her piety. Above the dial 
 are the words “Non milii ; ” above 
 the hen, 1641; and above the pelican, 
 1626. Under the gables is the in- 
 scription, “ Quis separabit nos a chari- 
 tate Christi.” N.W. side. — On the 
 gables, a dove sitting on a serpent 
 which encircles the globe ; a dial ; 
 and a hand out of clouds grasping 
 the world. Over the door and the 
 hand are the numbers 1595 and 1580 ; 
 and above the dial, “ Soli laboravi.” 
 (The whole inscription thus runs, 
 “Respicite ; non mihi soli laboravi.”) 
 Below are the words, “ Oonsideravi 
 opera tua Domine et expavi.” On 
 the sides of the shaft which supports 
 the central pinnacle are the date 1595 
 
Northants. Boute 12. — Bushton Hall and Church. 
 
 205 
 
 (repeated on each), the holy lamb, 
 the chalice, and the sacred mono- 
 gram ; and the words “ Esto mihi 
 lege sains.” — Angels bearing shields 
 project below the gable cornice. The 
 letters on the breast of each angel, 
 and on the shield have been explained 
 to mean “ Qui est et qni erit et qui 
 venturus est, Sanctus Sanctus Sanc- 
 tus Dominus Dens Sabaoth ; ” each 
 letter being the initial of a word. The 
 figures or dates are too mysterious to 
 be at all intelligible. The many 
 shields of arms are those of Tresham 
 and its intermarriages. Within the 
 house the only arms are those of the 
 builder impaling Throckmorton. (Sir 
 Thomas married Muriel, daughter of 
 Sir R. Throckmorton.) The rooms 
 within are hexagonal, the corners of 
 the large triangle being separated off 
 into triangular closets, one of which 
 contains the staircase. 
 
 With this lodge seems to be con- 
 nected the following curious extract 
 from a letter of Sir Thomas Tresham, 
 found among the MSS. at Rushton, 
 and communicated to ‘ Notes and 
 Queries’ (Nov. 26, 1858) by Mr. 
 Jardine. “ If it be demanded,” 
 writes Sir Thomas, “ why I labour 
 so much in the Trinity and Passion 
 of Christ to depaint in this chamber, 
 this is the principal instance thereof : 
 That at my last being hither” (Wis- 
 beach Castle, in which he was more 
 tiian once imprisoned) “committed, 
 and I usually having my servants 
 here allowed me, to read nightly an 
 hour to me after supper, it fortuned 
 that Fulcis my then servant, reading 
 in the Christian Revolution , in the 
 treatise of Proof there is a God, &c. 9 
 there was upon a wainscot table at 
 that instant, three loud knocks (as if 
 it had been with an iron hammer) 
 given ; to the great amazing of me 
 and my two servants, Fulcis and 
 Nilkton.” 
 
 Rushton Church , restored 1869, is 
 ded. to All Saints. A second church, 
 ded. to St. Peter, stood close to the 
 hall, and represented a distinct 
 
 manor. This church was pulled 
 down during the present century. 
 All Saints has chancel and nave, 
 with north aisles to each. The nave 
 piers are round, of the 13th cent.; 
 those in the chancel are later. The 
 windows in the N. aisle are Perp. 
 At the S. of the chancel is a vestry 
 with high-pitched stone roof. On 
 the N. side of the chancel is the altar- 
 tomb with effigy of Sir Thomas Tres- 
 ham (not the builder, but his grand- 
 father), last Lord Prior in England 
 of the Order of St. John of Jerusa- 
 lem. He wears plate-armour with 
 mail gussets, and a long mantle 
 with a cross flory on the breast, the 
 habit of the order assigned to it 
 by Pope Honorius III. On his 
 fingers are many rings. On the 
 sides of the tomb are shields of arms, 
 and a half-defaced inscription. “ If,” 
 says Fuller, “ the dimensions of his 
 body may be guessed by his finger, 
 and his finger by his ring, which I 
 have seen in possession of his kins- 
 man, he was a little giant, and far 
 greater than his portraiture on his 
 monument.” He was made Lord 
 Prior by Queen Mary in 1557 (the 
 order had been suppressed by Hen. 
 VIII., and was revived by Mary), a 
 distinction which entitled him to be 
 regarded as “primus Angliae baro,” 
 since the Priors took their seat in 
 Parliament above the temporal lords. 
 He did not live, however, long after 
 the accession of Elizabeth. His 
 monument was removed from the 
 destroyed church of St. Peter, to- 
 gether with a much earlier effigy in 
 the N. chapel. This is a cross-legged 
 knight, temp. Hen. III. ; of earlier 
 date than the connexion of the Tres- 
 hams with Rushton. There are some 
 modern memorial windows of stained 
 glass in the chancel ; and a fine 
 modern brass in the nave, in memory 
 of the wife of W. C. G. Thornhill, 
 Esq. 
 
 [The little town of Rothwell , 
 generally called Rowell , is about 
 
206 Route 12. — Wellingborough to Market Harbor ougli. Sect. I. 
 
 2 m. S.W. of Rushton station, and 
 stands on the high road from Ketter- 
 ing to Market Harborough. The 
 pop. in 1871 was 2875. The objects 
 of interest are the unfinished market- 
 house and the Church. The market- 
 house was begun by Sir Thomas Tres- 
 ham ; and although not so quaintly 
 fantastic as his other buildings, shows 
 distinctly the mark of his hand, and 
 has some general resemblance to the 
 “new build ” at Lyveden. It is a 
 square building with projections, en- 
 riched with pilasters, and raised on 
 open arches. On a central band is 
 the inscription, “ Thome Tresami 
 militis fuit hoc opus in gratium 
 dulcis patriae. Fecit suae tribusque 
 Northamptonise vel maxime hujusque 
 vicini sibi pagi. Nihil praeter bonum 
 commune qusesivit nihil praeter decus 
 perpenne amicorum. Male qui inter- 
 pretatur dignus haud tanto est bono. 
 Ao. Domini millesimo quingentesimo 
 septuagesimo septimo.” On the cor- 
 nice and eisewhere are the shields of 
 the principal Northamptonshire fami- 
 lies at the time of the erection. The 
 walls were repaired in 1827, but the 
 market-house remains “unfinished” 
 and unused. The Church , said to be 
 the longest in the county, has Norman 
 portions (S. wall of chancel) ; Tran- 
 sition (nave, chancel and lower stages 
 of tower) ; Early Dec. (tower arch 
 and Lady-chapel on N. side of chan- 
 cel) and Perp. (clerestory of nave and 
 E. window). The transepts were 
 removed in 1673 ; the spire fell in 
 1660, and the chancel was restored 
 in 1848. This is the most striking 
 portion of the church. There is a 
 brass for William de Rothwelle, d. 
 1361, Archdeacon of Essex, in cope, 
 and another for Ed. Saunders, of 
 Haryngton, 1514 (founder of chan- 
 try), and wife. The chantry which 
 he founded now serves as the vestry. 
 — Under two bays of the S. aisle, 
 immediately W. of the transept, is a 
 crypt, 30 ft. 3 in. long, 15 ft. 6 in. 
 wide, and 8 ft. 6 in. high. It is of 
 the Transition period, like the rest of 
 
 the church, and had long been closed, 
 when it was accidentally discovered 
 by some workmen about the year 
 1700. It was then filled with care- 
 fully piled human bones, now half- 
 mouldered away. They may repre- 
 sent perhaps 4000 persons; and the 
 bones were piled here, as in the 
 crypts at Ripon, and at Hythe in 
 Kent, either when part of the church- 
 yard was cleared, or as they occurred 
 in making fresh graves. Similar col- 
 lections of human skulls and bones 
 occur in the “ bone houses ” or 
 ossuaries attached to many churches 
 in Brittany. A local tradition (of 
 course entirely without foundation) 
 declares the remains here to be those 
 of the men who fell at Naseby. — The 
 manor of Rothwell, from the middle 
 of the 12th century, belonged to the 
 Earls of Clare, who may have been 
 the builders of the church.] 
 
 We reach at 
 
 2J m. Desborough Station. The 
 church is mainly E. Eng. The 
 manor for 14 generations belonged 
 to the Pulton family, one of whom, 
 Ferdinando Pulton, who is buried in 
 the chancel, was the compiler of the 
 “Statutes at Large,” from Magnq, 
 Carta to the 16th of James I. 
 
 Left of the line is seen Braybrooke 
 Church , E. Eng. and Dec., with a 
 monument for Sir Nicholas Griffin, 
 d. 1509, and the effigy of a cross- 
 legged knight, 7 ft. in length, pro- 
 bably of Sir Thomas le Latymer 
 (died 1334). Lord Braybrooke 
 takes the title of his barony (created 
 1788) from this parish. East of 
 the village, in the “ castle field,” 
 stood the castle of the Braybrookes, 
 surrounded by a double ditch. At 
 farther distance 1., are seen the 
 towers of Oxenden Magna (on high 
 ground ; the church is Dec. with a 
 Norm. font. The Rev. John Mor- 
 ton, author of the ‘Nat. Hist, of 
 Northamptonshire/ 1712, was rector 
 from 1706 to 1737. He was buried 
 in the chancel, where is a monument 
 
Northants. Route 13. — Rugby to Market Harborough. 207 
 
 to his memory) and East Farndon , 
 noticeable as the place where the 
 despatches of Charles I. were taken 
 after the battle of Naseby. The 
 Royalists had moved through the 
 village to the battle-field (5 m. S.). 
 In a field adjoining Farndon Hall 
 (Mrs. Fagan) are some extensive 
 earthworks, which, as Mr. Bloxam 
 suggests, may have been connected 
 with others at Sibbertoft and at 
 Rockingham. He regards them as 
 having been frontier fortresses of 
 the Dobuni, on the S. side of the 
 Welland. 
 
 Passing Little Bowden , where the 
 church tower (not early) is of wood, 
 we soon reach 
 
 5 m. Market Harborough. (See 
 Handbook for Leicestershire .) 
 
 ROUTE 13. 
 
 RUGBY TO MARKET HARBOROUGH: 
 MARKET HARBOROUGH TO STAM- 
 FORD. 
 
 London and North- Western Railway. 
 
 This line follows for a part of its 
 course the valley of the Avon, here 
 but a small stream. From Thed- 
 dingworth to Stamford it follows the 
 river Welland. Both the Avon and 
 the Welland mark the boundary of 
 the county. The railway runs for 
 the most part through Leicestershire 
 and Rutland. Only those places 
 are here noticed which are in North- 
 amptonshire, and adjoin the line, or 
 
 the stations. For others, see Hand- 
 book for Leicestershire , and Rutland 
 (post). 
 
 From Rugby to Market Har- 
 borough the time occupied in the 
 journey is nearly § hr. For Rugby , 
 s eeHandbook for Warwickshire. Pass- 
 ing a small station at Clifton Mill 
 we reach 
 
 Lilbourne Stat. within the North- 
 ants border. This place appears to 
 represent the Tripontium of the 
 6th Antonine Iter. The Watling 
 Street passed a very short distance 
 W., and the Avon is crossed by a 
 long bridge, the successor of the 
 Roman “ pons.” There are traces 
 of an encampment on either side of 
 the stream ; and at Lilbourne itself 
 are other remains. Close to the 
 river are banks and foundations, 
 with a high mount on the N.W., 
 Brito-Roman earthworks in all pro- 
 bability, which were turned to ac- 
 count in the building of a mediseval 
 castle, the work (apparently) of 
 Gerard de Camville, in the reign 
 of Stephen. The walls of this castle 
 have disappeared. It is asserted 
 that a keep or watch-tower stood on 
 the mount, and that the churches of 
 Lilbourne and Clay Coton were 
 built from its materials. There is a 
 second mount about J m. W. of the 
 village, with traces of a moat round 
 it ; and near the Watling Street S. of 
 Dovebridge, was a third, which has 
 been levelled. The tradition of the 
 place is that there was a great fight 
 here between Danes and Saxons ; 
 but nothing has been found to make 
 it certain whether these mounds are 
 sepulchral, or whether they served 
 as “ speculatoria.” 
 
 Lilbourne Church is partly E. Eng. 
 (nave and aisles) but is of no in- 
 terest. The tower is Dec. 
 
 The line here bends into North- 
 amptonshire, and reaches 
 
 Yelvertoft Station. (The village 
 and church of Yelvertoft lie some 
 distance S.E. The important Church 
 
208 
 
 Route 13 . — Rugly to 
 
 of Stanford (see post ) is best visited 
 from this station, whence it is distant 
 f m.) Yelvertoft Church deserves 
 notice for the sake of the very rich 
 tomb with window above it, of an 
 ecclesiastic — probably John Dyeson, 
 rector (1445-1479), who left a con- 
 siderable sum for the repairs of the 
 church. On the exterior, the space 
 from the ’ground to the sill of the 
 window is covered with courses of 
 quatrefoils of different characters. 
 The effigy, within, has a rich canopy 
 of alabaster. The date of the origi- 
 nal church is Dec., but a second S. 
 aisle was added in the Perp. period, 
 and there are other Perp. insertions. 
 The Dec. porch seems to have been 
 taken down and rebuilt in the 15th 
 cent. The sedilia are Perp. Some 
 of the old seats remain, and new 
 ones were added during the restora- 
 tion in 1870. 
 
 Between Yelvertoft and the next 
 station we pass rt. Claycoton , where 
 is a small Dec. church (nave rebuilt 
 1866) of not much interest ; and 1. 
 Stanford , where the church is of 
 special importance. The manor of 
 Stanford belonged to Selby Abbey 
 in Yorkshire, from a date soon after 
 the Conquest to the Dissolution. It 
 was then (1540) bought from the 
 crown by Thomas Cave, the repre- 
 sentative of an old Yorkshire family, 
 taking its name from the parishes 
 of Cave in the E. Biding. Stan- 
 ford descended to the daughter of 
 Sir Thomas Cave, Bart., who in 
 1839 became Baroness Braye, the 
 barony having been revived in her 
 favour as the representative, through 
 her great-grandmother, of the 1st 
 Lord Braye. The Baroness died 
 in 1869, and her three daughters 
 are now the joint possessors of the 
 hall and manor. Stanford Hall 
 stands on the N. side of the Avon, 
 in a deer park of considerable ex- 
 tent, and was rebuilt by Sir Boger 
 Cave about 1670. The older manor- 
 house stood in the village of Stan- 
 ford, close to the Church . This 
 
 Market HarhorGugh. Sect. I. 
 
 (ded. St. Nicholas) belongs through- 
 out to the first half of the fourteenth 
 century, and is no doubt due to the 
 Benedictines of Selby. The parapet 
 and pinnacles of the tower, although 
 debased additions, increase the gene- 
 ral effect. The windows are of two 
 characters, with plain crossed tracery, 
 and with rich geometrical headings. 
 u The striking effect of the interior 
 is due chiefly to the absence of seats 
 throughout the aisles and a great 
 part of the nave, and to the slen- 
 derness of the pillars, rising with 
 continuous mouldings into pointed 
 arches, which are surrounded by a 
 hood of the roll-moulding.” An 
 organ-gallery intercepts the tower 
 arch ; and contains an organ once 
 belonging to the royal palace of 
 Whitehall, but sold by Cromwell, 
 and erected here. There is some 
 good Perp. screen work under the 
 gallery. The rood screen was 
 brought from Lutterworth. Furni- 
 ture for the pulpit and altar, besides 
 the coverings of a large Bible and 
 Prayer Book, were worked and given 
 by Lady Bowe, wife of Sir Thomas 
 Bowe, sent ambassador to Constan- 
 tinople in 1621. These gifts were 
 designed as thank-offerings for the 
 preservation of Sir Thomas and his 
 wife in a great storm at sea, on their 
 return from Turkey, whence, we are 
 told, “ they precipitately fled on 
 account of the Sultan’s having dis- 
 covered too great a regard for Lady 
 Bowe, who remarkably excelled, 
 both in the beauties of her person 
 and her mind. ,, The history of 
 the gift is recorded on a leaf of the 
 Bible in contemporary writing. The 
 church is rich in ancient stained 
 glass and in monuments. The glass 
 fills the East and four other win- 
 dows in the chancel, and some 
 windows in the aisles, and although 
 it has been rearranged and altered 
 by incompetent persons, it is still of 
 very great interest, and will amply 
 repay study. It is chiefly Dec., with 
 smaller portions belonging to the 
 
209 
 
 Northants. Route 13. — Theddingworth — Lubenham. 
 
 Perp. and Cinqnecento styles. The 
 earliest is in the E. window, and 
 may date from the end of Edw. II.’s 
 reign. In the upper part of the 
 window the glass remains in its 
 original position. The lower portion 
 is of later date, partly Dec. and 
 partly (in the fine group of kneel- 
 ing figures) Cinquecento. These 
 figures, as appears from the arms on 
 the tabard, represent members of the 
 Cave family. In the other windows 
 the glass may vary in date from 
 about 1340 to 1360. “There is, 
 however, so great a similarity be- 
 tween all of it, in drawing and ar- 
 rangement of colour, as to justify the 
 supposition that it was all executed 
 under the same superintendence, if 
 not by the same artist.” — G. Winston. 
 There are various figures of holy 
 personages and of saints. A local 
 tradition bears that all this glass was 
 saved at the Rebellion by the parish- 
 ioners, who turned out in defence of 
 their windows, and prevented the 
 destruction of them by the Round- 
 heads. (A full notice of it by the 
 late Mr. Winston , will be found 
 in 4 Architectural Notices of the 
 Churches in the Archdeaconry of 
 Northampton/ 1849.) The monu- 
 ments (the earlier ones at least), 
 although “ valuable as family me- 
 morials, and curious as exhibiting 
 the decline of ecclesiastical art, add 
 nothing to the architectural beauties 
 of the church.” There is, however, 
 a sepulchral recess of much beauty 
 in the S. aisle, with a mutilated 
 recumbent figure. Of the more 
 recent, there is one for the late 
 Baroness Braye, by Mrs. Thorney- 
 croft; one for the Hon. R. Otway 
 Cave, by Westmacott ; and a third, by 
 Kessell , for the Hon. Thomas Otway 
 Cave. Nearly all the memorials in 
 the church are for the family of Cave. 
 
 The next station is for Welford 
 and Eilworth. The latter is in 
 Leicestershire. Welford has been 
 described in Rte. 8. The village 
 
 and church are 2J m. from this 
 station. Naseby (see the same Rte.) 
 is 3 m. beyond Welford. From the 
 Welford station the railway runs 
 through Leicestershire to the next 
 station at 
 
 Theddingworth , where it reaches 
 the valley of the Welland. (The 
 Avon, descending from the high 
 ground of Naseby, turns S.W. near 
 the Welford station. The Welland, 
 rising from the same ridge, flows 
 N.E. toward Stamford. See Rte. 8.) 
 The church of Theddingworth, is on 
 the Leicestershire side of the river. 
 In Northamptonshire is Hothorye 
 House (Henry Everett, Esq.). Be- 
 tween Theddingworth and the next 
 station is (rt.) Marston Trussed , 
 where the church has E. Eng. por- 
 tions. It is known as “pudding- 
 poke” Marston, because the main 
 road terminates at the church in a 
 cul-de-sac. At that place a number 
 of the King’s troops, in their flight 
 from Naseby, were overtaken and 
 cut to pieces — since from the nature 
 of the ground they were unable to 
 continue their retreat. A very 
 short distance beyond Marston we 
 reach 
 
 Lubenham Station. Here Charles 
 I., on his way from Leicester to 
 Oxford, lodged for the night between 
 June 4th and 5th, 1645, at the house 
 of a Mr. Collins, still remaining. 
 The room is shown which the King 
 used on this occasion, and again on 
 the night between June 12th and 
 13th — after the retreat from Daven- 
 try. Charles was roused here at 
 two in the morning, and rode off to 
 Market Harborough, whence he 
 advanced to the battle-field of Nase- 
 by. (For all these movements see 
 Rte. 8.) The next station is Market 
 Harborough (see Handbook for 
 Leicestershire'). 
 
 Here is a junction with rlys. from 
 Northampton (Rte. 8) and from 
 Wellingborough and Kettering (Rte. 
 12). Rlys. run from Market Har- 
 borough to Leicester, to Rugby, and 
 
210 Boute 13 . — Bugby to Market Harborough. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 to Stamford. (That to Rugby we 
 have been following; and advance 
 on that to Stamford.) 
 
 The railway from Market Har- 
 borough follows the left bank of the 
 Welland, and bends nearly north to 
 the station at Medbourne Bridge. 
 The country on the Northampton- 
 shire side is pleasant, but none of 
 the churches within reach of this 
 station call for special notice. Wes- 
 ton ch. (1 m.) was entirely rebuilt in 
 1863. The style is E. Eng. All 
 the windows are filled with stained 
 glass. Ashley , 1 m. E. of Weston, 
 has been more elaborately restored, 
 with stained windows, alabaster 
 reredos, decorated roof, and wall 
 painting (in the chancel) illustrative 
 of the Te Deum. Sutton Basset , 
 
 1 m. S. of Weston, was restored in 
 1861, but the original Norman fea- 
 tures were carefully preserved. The 
 Bassets were lords here, temp. Hen. 
 II. Dingley , 2 m. S. (and 2 m. also 
 on the road from Market Harborough 
 to Stamford), is more interesting. 
 The church is unimportant ; but 
 Dingley Hall (H. V. F. Hungerford, 
 Esq.), standing on comparatively 
 high ground E. of the church, occu- 
 pies the site of a preceptory of 
 Knights Hospitallers, who acquired 
 property here in the reign of Stephen. 
 These lands afterwards passed to the 
 family of Griffin. Some portions of 
 the preceptory remain. One of the 
 porches was added in 1558 by 
 Edward Griffin, then Attorney- Gene- 
 ral ; and a second porch, leading to 
 the great hall, although not given to 
 him, must also be of his date. On 
 the gateway is the date 1560. The 
 S. front was built in 1684 by Sir 
 Edward Griffin; and part of the 
 Eastern wing seems to have been the 
 chapel of the preceptory. — On the 
 same line of high road from Market 
 Harborough are Brampton Oh. (1J 
 m. from Dingley), E. Eng. and Perp. 
 restored 1849; Wilbarston , of no 
 interest; and Stoke Albany; — the 
 ch. is ded. to St. Alban, the patron 
 
 saint possibly of the De Albinis, who 
 held the manor temp. Hen. II. It 
 was restored in 1872. The manor- 
 house near it has some windows 
 which may be E. Eng. Adjoining 
 is Stoke Albany House (General 
 Cotton). 
 
 The next station is at 
 
 Rockingham. The village is 'dis- 
 tant from the station nearly 1 mile. 
 For Rockingham see Rte. 11. 
 
 2 m. S.W. of Rockingham is Cot- 
 tingham , where the church is E. 
 Eng. and Dec. 1 m. farther is East 
 Carlton Park (Sir Geoffry Palmer, 
 Bart.). The house was restored and 
 enlarged in 1870. Carlton Church 
 was rebuilt in 1778, in a Gothic 
 which is unusually good for that 
 period. There are some Palmer 
 monuments in the S. transept. 
 
 Leaving Rockingham, the railway 
 soon enters Rutland, and continues 
 in that county until it reaches Stam- 
 ford. There are two intermediate 
 stations ; one at Seaton , from which 
 Uppingham is reached, and another 
 at Luffenham. 
 
 In Northamptonshire, the church 
 of Gretton, standing high on the 
 ridge N. of Rockingham, is seen, rt. 
 as the train passes. It has no great 
 interest, and the woods which for- 
 merly clothed the ridge, and were 
 enclosed in Rockingham forest, have 
 nearly disappeared. At Harring- 
 worth , 2 m. N., the old cross remains 
 in the market-place. All places of 
 importance or interest between 
 Rockingham and Stamford are de- 
 scribed in Rte. 10. For Stamford 
 see Rte. 3. 
 
Boutes 14, 15. — Thrapston to Kettering and Kimbolton . 211 
 
 ROUTE 14. 
 
 THRAPSTON TO KETTERING. 
 
 Midland Bailway. 
 
 This Rte. follows a portion of the 
 Midland Railway from Cambridge 
 to Kettering. The line passes 
 through the centre of the Ironstone 
 district. The Staveley Company at 
 Cranford, the Woodford, the New- 
 bridge, the Islip, and the Thraps- 
 ton Companies are all busily en- 
 gaged in sending the iron ore (a 
 hydrated peroxide) into Derbyshire, 
 Staffordshire, and Yorkshire ; whilst 
 a great deal is also supplied to the 
 Dowlais and Tredegar furnaces in 
 S. Wales. Large smelting-works 
 (Mr. Plevins’s) will be seen on the 
 rt. hand soon after leaving Thraps- 
 ton. The mineral tolls taken at 
 Twywell station amount to some 
 45,000Z. a year. The neighbouring 
 villages are rapidly changing their 
 character, owing to the influx of 
 miners and furnace men. 
 
 Twywell Stat. The church here, 
 Norm, and E. Eng., was restored in 
 1867, and is interesting for the Easter 
 Sepulchre in its chancel. Shortly 
 after passing Twywell, is seen, 1. 
 Woodford Lodge (Hon. Mrs. Arbuth- 
 not). Here is a good portrait of the 
 great Duke of Wellington. There 
 is again a station at 
 
 Cranford , between the two parishes 
 of Cranford St. Andrew and Cran- 
 ford St. John. Rt. is Cranford 
 Hall (Sir John Blencowe Robinson, 
 Bart.). An elm and an ash-tree in 
 the park are famous for their size. 
 The church of Cranford St. Andrew 
 was restored, 1847 : that of Cranford 
 St. John (rt. of the line) in 1842. 
 Neither is of much importance. 
 
 The spire of Kettering is soon seen 
 on the hill, rt., and the train rapidly 
 reaches that station. (For Kettering 
 see Rte. 9.) 
 
 ROUTE 15. 
 
 THRAPSTON TO KiMBOLTON. 
 
 By this Rte. we travel on a por- 
 tion of the Midland railway running 
 from Market Harborough to Cam- 
 bridge. The first station, at Raunds, 
 is in Northamptonshire. The church 
 of Raunds is of very great interest ; 
 and from that place the churches 
 of Stanwick and of Hargrave may 
 easily be visited. (A pedestrian 
 may walk from Raunds by Stanwick 
 to Higham Ferrers, where he will 
 find a station on the line from 
 Northampton to Peterborough. See 
 Rte. 1. The distance from Raunds 
 to Stanwick is about 2 m. Thence 
 to Higham Ferrers it is 3 m.) 
 
 The Raunds station is 1J m. from 
 the church and village. (The mean- 
 ing of the name is very uncertain. 
 Rand or rond , A.S. = a border or 
 edge, has been suggested, and the 
 place certainly lies on the extreme 
 limit of Northamptonshire.) The 
 village is of some size (pop. of parish 
 in 1871, 2580), and it is one of the 
 shoe-making centres of the district. 
 For the visitor, the interest of the 
 place is confined to the Church (dedi- 
 cated to St. Peter), which is one of 
 the most striking and important even 
 
212 
 
 Route 15. — Raunds. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 in this part of Northamptonshire. 
 It has been partly restored (1874-6), 
 by Sir G. G. Scott. The magnifi- 
 cent tower and spire, dating from 
 the first half of the 18th cent., are 
 alone worth a journey to Raunds. 
 The ground-plan comprises W. tower, 
 nave with N. and S. aisles, S. porch, 
 chancel, and a N. chapel or chantry 
 opening from it. The lower parts 
 of chancel and N. chapel, are E. Eng. 
 of the same date as the tower. Other 
 E. Eng. portions exist in the nave 
 and porch ; and it is clear that the 
 church was completed at one period. 
 The nave with its arcade was rebuilt 
 in the reign of Ed. III., together with 
 the clerestory of the chancel. The 
 plan resembles that of most North- 
 amptonshire churches, and exhibits 
 a somewhat short, broadly spaced 
 nave, with a well-developed chancel. 
 
 The church stands on high ground, 
 which falls rapidly a little W. of the 
 tower. This rises in four stages, 
 each of which is richly decorated. 
 In the lowest is the western door- 
 way, a recessed porch, having the 
 outer and inner arches elaborately 
 moulded, with shafts in the jambs. 
 On either side is a trefoiled arch, 
 forming the head of a niche. In the 
 second stage is a bold arcade, of 
 which the two central arches con- 
 tain lancet windows ; the outer ones 
 have quatrefoil lights, well moulded, 
 and set in the panel contained by 
 the arch. Between the spandrels of 
 the arches are small quatrefoil sunk 
 panels. The third stage is decorated 
 in a very unusual manner. A tall 
 pediment in the centre, and a half 
 pediment on either side, rise to the 
 moulding below the fourth or belfry 
 stage. Under the central pediment 
 is a two-light pointed window. Be- 
 low, on either side, is a large quatre- 
 foil, and a similar quatrefoil occurs 
 above, on either side of the central 
 pediment. The belfry stage has an 
 arcade of six arches, the four central 
 ones open as windows. Tall but- 
 tresses, two at each angle of the 
 
 tower, rise to the spring of the 
 window arches in the belfry stage. 
 At the top of the tower is a cornice 
 filled with masks. The broach spire 
 is octagonal, without a parapet, and 
 there are three ranges of spire lights. 
 This spire was struck by lightning 
 in July, 1826, and about 80 feet 
 were thrown down. It was at once 
 rebuilt, and the original character 
 has been most carefully preserved. 
 It rises to a height of 180 ft. On 
 the N. and S. sides of the tower, 
 there are two arcades below the 
 belfry windows, in some of the 
 spandrels of which are figures play- 
 ing on musical instruments. 
 
 The tower should be seen from a 
 point at a short distance W., where 
 the peculiar effect of the pedimented 
 stage with the quatrefoils is very 
 marked. On the exterior of the 
 church, remark the windows (those 
 of the N. aisle are original), Dec. 
 with good flowing tracery in the 
 headings. The fine E. window is 
 E. Eng., of six lights, with plain 
 circles in the head, the heads of 
 the lights trefoiled. The chancel 
 buttresses are good E. Eng. 
 
 Within , the nave, of five bays, is 
 Dec., except the western responds 
 on either side, which are E. Eng. 
 The arches N. have hood-moulds 
 terminating in corbels ; those S. 
 have no hood-moulds. The plain 
 open roof, with spandrels filled with 
 pierced tracery is of the same date. 
 The chancel arch is Dec. with deep 
 hollow mouldings on the E. face ; 
 on the W. face the mouldings are 
 shallow, and a double row of ball- 
 flowers is set in them. It has been 
 inserted across one of the E. Eng. 
 side arches, and has a large buttress 
 in the aisle to support it. Three 
 plain E. Eng. arches divide the 
 chancel from the chapel of S. Peter 
 on the N. side, also at first E. Eng., 
 but with Dec. and Perp. insertions. 
 The clerestory of the chancel is a 
 Dec. addition. There is a piscina 
 in the east wall, on ' the S. side of 
 
Northants. 
 
 Route 15 . — StamvicJc. 
 
 218 
 
 the altar, and two others with a 
 sedile in the S. wall. At the W. 
 end of the church remark the E. 
 Eng. tower arch, deeply recessed, 
 with a low arch of the 15th cent, 
 inserted in it, in connexion with 
 the vault then introduced in the 
 tower. The composition of the 
 double lancet above the W. doorway 
 is of great beauty, with inner open 
 arches having foliated headings, 
 and carried on shafts with enriched 
 capitals. The plain, round, E. Eng. 
 font has a ram’s head projecting 
 from the side. The only tomb of 
 interest is that of John Wales, vicar, 
 d. 1496. In the ch.-yd. are the steps 
 and shaft of a late Dec. cross, with 
 emblems of the Evangelists on the 
 four sides of the shaft. That of 
 St. Matthew is, very unusually, a 
 bird with a human face, instead of 
 an angel. 
 
 The patronage of the church, at 
 the time of its first (E. Eng.) build- 
 ing, seems to have been in the 
 Crown ; and in 1254, Edmund, son 
 of Hen. III., is recorded as present- 
 ing John of Twyford to the rectory. 
 In 1355, Henry, Duke of Lancaster, 
 gave the advowson to the Dean and 
 Chapter of the College of Newark, 
 in Leicester. These dates agree 
 sufficiently with the two periods of 
 the architecture ; and the royal 
 patronage to some extent explains 
 the dignity and richness given to 
 the E. Eng. building. 
 
 A very^fine barn of the 13th cent., 
 with high pitched roof (worth atten- 
 tion) and a range of low buttresses, 
 exists near the church. 
 
 [A walk of 2 m. along high 
 ground, commanding a wide extent 
 of rich corn country, will bring the 
 tourist to Stanwick, where the church 
 (St. Lawrence) well deserves a visit. 
 It was originally E. Eng., with a 
 tower, also E. Eng., but of somewhat 
 later date. The church was altered 
 in Dec. and Perp. times. The 
 chancel was rebuilt in 1823; and 
 there has been a later restoration. 
 
 The special interest and peculiarity 
 of the church, however, lie in its 
 octangular E. Eng. tower, the effect 
 of which, with its Dec. spire, is very 
 excellent. The tower is an octagon, 
 but the N.E. and S.E. sides are filled 
 with the tower stairs, so that a 
 square surface is presented to the 
 body of the church. The basement 
 story is flanked by very good but- 
 tresses, which do not rise higher. 
 The W. window is a single lancet, 
 with a pierced octofoil above it. 
 The belfry stage is slightly recessed, 
 from the lower octagon, and has an 
 arcade of round-headed arches, of 
 which those facing the cardinal 
 points are pierced with two lancets. 
 The octagon terminates above in a 
 table of trefoiled corbels. The pecu- 
 liar arrangement of the tower stairs 
 should be noticed. Thus far the 
 work dates from about 1220. The 
 spire above may have formed part of 
 the original plan, but is Dec. It is 
 octagonal, ribbed at the angles, and 
 has three ranges of spire lights. 
 The total height is 156 ft. Within 
 the church the best feature is the 
 very fine and wide arcade, E. Eng., 
 though the arches are four-centred, 
 a form very unusual for that style. 
 In the nave there have been Perp. 
 insertions. The latest restoration 
 has swept away a singing-gallery 
 “done in Doric woodwork,” which 
 crossed the tower, and interfered 
 with the view westward. This and 
 other adornments were placed here 
 by the father of Eichard Cumber- 
 land, who was for some years (1731- 
 1757) rector of Stanwick. The 
 dramatist was himself born here. 
 The pulpit was the gift of John 
 Dolben, Bp. of Eochester, 1678, as 
 appears from an inscription on it. 
 The father of Bp. Dolben had been 
 rector here (1623-1631). The font 
 is very rich Dec. Ascelin de Water- 
 ville temp. Hen. II., granted his 
 manor of Stanwick to the Abbot 
 of Peterborough, and this, together 
 with the patronage of the church, 
 
214 
 
 Route 15. — Hargrave . 
 
 Sect. 1. 
 
 remained in possession of the abbey 
 until the Dissolution. The church 
 therefore was no doubt built by that 
 great house. 
 
 The church of Hargrave lies 4 m. 
 E. of Stanwick, on the high road 
 from Higham Ferrers to Kimbolton. 
 It stands pleasantly among trees. 
 The tower and spire are E. Eng., as 
 was the original fabric of nave and 
 aisles and chancel. The S. door 
 has very rich mouldings, retaining a 
 Norman character. The E. Eng. 
 clerestory of the nave is of quatre- 
 foils. Within, the church has nothing 
 very noticeable. It has been care- 
 fully restored (1868), and in re- 
 building an E. Eng. wall (not much 
 later than 1200) a slab of Weldon 
 stone was found, on which was 
 roughly scratched a diagram such 
 as is still used for playing the game 
 called in Northamptonshire “Peg 
 Mery 11.” This is the “ Nine Men’s 
 Morris ” of Shakespeare : — 
 
 The crows are fatted on the murrain flock, 
 The nine men's morris is filled up with 
 mud; 
 
 And the quaint mazes on the wanton green 
 For lack of tread are undis tinguishable. ’ ’ 
 Midsummer Night's Dream, Act ii., sc. 2. 
 
 It is still played in many parts of 
 England, especially in the northern 
 and eastern counties ; and is known 
 by various names, “Blind Men’s 
 Morris,” “Morels,” “Marls,” “Mill” 
 (Devon). What the true form of the 
 word is is uncertain, and its origin 
 is unknown. (An old French form 
 is Merelle.) The game, however, 
 is very ancient, as the finding of this 
 stone at Hargrave, and another re- 
 sembling it at Sempringham in Lin- 
 colnshire, sufficiently proves. It is a 
 sort of draughts, and is played gene- 
 rally in the field or on turf, where 
 the diagram can be cut on the 
 ground. Pegs or small stones are 
 used for men. (See a very interest- 
 ing paper on the discovery of the 
 Hargrave stone by the rector, Eev. 
 R. S. Baker, in the 11th vol. of ‘ Re- 
 ports of the Associated Archit. So- 
 cieties.’ The stone is now in the 
 Northampton Museum.] 
 
 Soon after leaving the Raunds 
 stat., the rly. enters Huntingdon - 
 shire. For Kimbolton, which is the 
 station beyond Raunds, see Hand- 
 book for that county. 
 
( 215 ) 
 
 SECTION II. 
 
 KUTLAND. 
 
 ROUTES. 
 
 %* The names of places are printed in Italics only in those routes where the places 
 
 are described. 
 
 ROUTE PAGE 
 
 1 Stamford to Melton Mowbray 
 
 (rail). ( Ketton , Normanton , 
 Oakham , Langliam) .. .. 215 
 
 2 Manton to Rockingham by 
 
 Uppingham { road ). ( Lyd - 
 
 dington , /Stfofte . . . . 222 
 
 3 Oakham to Clipsham (road). 
 
 ROUTE PAGE 
 
 (Burley -on-the-hill, Cottes- ■ 
 
 more , Greetham 228 
 
 4 Stamford to Stretton {road). 
 
 ( Tickencote , Empingham , 
 
 Exton) 231 
 
 5 Stamford to Essendine (rail). 
 
 (Byhall) 236 
 
 ROUTE 1. 
 
 STAMFORD TO MELTON MOWBRAY. 
 
 Midland Bailway. 
 
 A branch of the Midland Rly. 
 runs from Peterborough through 
 Stamford to Oakham, Melton, and 
 Leicester. This line, after leaving 
 Stamford, makes a bend to the south, 
 and then, turning north, passes by 
 Oakham, and so into Leicestershire. 
 It thus traverses the whole of Rut- 
 land. (For what is known of the 
 early history of Rutland, see Intro- 
 duction.) 
 
 The trains leave Stamford from 
 St. Martin's Stat. The first station 
 reached is Ketton. 1 m. from Stan- 
 ford the village of Tinwell is passed, 
 rt. The church, which has E. Eng. 
 and Dec. portions, has a saddleback 
 tower. In the long chancel is the 
 memorial of one Herman Rainer, 
 u Origine Tanger ” (a native of 
 Tangier, or born there ?) “ qui novit 
 
 multa et multis impertiit,” died 1668. 
 Tinwell, however, is hardly worth a 
 visit. The archaeologist must make 
 a point of seeing 
 
 4 m. Ketton Church (Stat.) The 
 whole building is fine and interest- 
 ing, ranging from Trans.-Norm. 
 through E. Eng. to first Decorated. 
 The tower (central) and spire are to 
 be specially noted. The interior, 
 with its lofty and wide arches, its 
 high tower piers, and the long chan- 
 cel beyond, is very striking. The 
 earliest portion is the W. front. Then 
 follows the chancel (E. Eng.) The 
 tower is a little later, but still E. 
 Eng., and the nave arcade is early 
 Dec. Taking the outside first, the 
 W. front has a round-headed central 
 portal, with a blind pointed arch on 
 either side. All have the zigzag, and 
 the outer moulding of the central 
 arch has the dog-tooth laid at inter- 
 vals into the hollow. The whole is 
 a good example of Transition, though 
 the E. Eng. must have been fully 
 developed when it was built. The 
 
216 Route 1 . — Stamford to Melton Mowbray . Sect. II. 
 
 chancel is plain but excellent E. Eng. 
 with very good buttresses. The 
 
 noble E. Eng. tower has three bel- 
 fry lights on each front ; an outer 
 pointed arch, enclosing two smaller. 
 There is much dog-tooth. The 
 
 broach spire (of later date) rises from 
 a cornice. The spire itself itself has 
 much variety, with canopied spire 
 lights, and small niches for figures ; 
 and the whole composition is sin- 
 gularly rich and pleasing. The 
 plain Latin crosses above the spire 
 lights are noticeable. A gable mark 
 on the N. side of the tower indicates 
 the former existence of a transept. 
 The nave has a remarkable cornice, 
 with the ball-flower and other de- 
 vices, under the battlement. Within , 
 observe the lofty arches of the nave, 
 with high round piers, the caps, of 
 which are hollowed, with nail-head 
 in the mouldings. The great tower 
 arches have also the nail-head, and 
 there are remains of a good flowing 
 pattern in red, on the E. side of the 
 E. arch. The door above the W. 
 arch (with gable mark above it) 
 seems to have been an arrangement 
 belonging to an earlier arcade. The 
 chancel windows are long lancets. 
 There are early Dec. windows on the 
 N. side of nave ; and a large Perp. 
 insertion on the S. side. The oc- 
 tagonal font is Dec. The whole 
 church (ded. to Mary the Virgin) is 
 built of the local oolite, which be- 
 comes lichen -tinted and yellowish 
 with age. It has been well restored. 
 The mosaic under the tower is the 
 work of a local artist. The only 
 monument is a plain but good ex- 
 ample, of a.d. 1594, for Ferdinando 
 Caldecote. 
 
 Ketton belonged to Eichard de 
 Humet, in the reign of Stephen; 
 and passed through several hands to 
 the Haringtons, and from them to 
 the Noels. Close to the famous 
 freestone quarries, which were 
 worked from a very early period, 
 we look, with reason, for a fine 
 church here ; but the later work of 
 
 the nave, at any rate, was not com- 
 pleted without some pressure from 
 Hugh of Wells, Bp. of Lincoln 
 (1209-1235), who granted an indul- 
 gence of 20 days to all who should, 
 in any way, contribute to the fabric. 
 The village is large and straggling ; 
 and a rent of 2s. was, until recently, 
 paid to the sheriff “ pro ocreis 
 regime” (for the queen's boots), an 
 unusual charge, which may be con- 
 nected with the shoemaker’s trade 
 established at so early a period in 
 the neighbouring county (see North- 
 ampton, Kte. 1). 
 
 The Ketton stone quarries are a 
 little beyond the village, on the 1. of 
 the road to Tinwell. In this place 
 they are nearly exhausted ; but the . 
 same stone is quarried at Casterton, 
 N.W. of Stamford (Ete. 4), and more 
 freely. The Ketton stone belongs 
 to the Inferior Oolite. “ It is of that 
 peculiar grain from which the term 
 ‘ oolite ’ (or roe-stone, or egg-stone) 
 is derived ; and is composed entirely 
 of small egg-shaped grains, em- 
 bedded in a calcareous matrix. A 
 polished section of the stone gene- 
 rally shows that each of these oval- 
 shaped grains has a minute nucleus 
 (either siliceous or consisting of a 
 shell fragment) enclosed in con- 
 centric calcareous films. It is a 
 stone very easily worked, of a good 
 cream colour, and very durable, 
 hardening under atmospheric ex- 
 posure.” — S. Sharpe. 
 
 Hitherto the railway has passed 
 through the valley of the Welland, 
 and has crossed and re-crossed the 
 river. At Ketton it bends away 
 into central Eutland. The country, 
 with low hills and little wood, is not 
 very attractive ; and there is nothing 
 which calls for notice, until we 
 reach 
 
 Luffenham St at., where the rly. 
 from Eugby to Stamford (see 
 Northamptonshire , Ete. 13) joins the 
 line of the present Ete. The vil- 
 lage of South Luffenham lies 1 m. S. 
 of the station. North Luffenham is 
 
Kutland. 
 
 Route 1 . — Manton — Oakham. 
 
 217 
 
 about the same distance N. Both 
 have small ancient churches, but of 
 no great interest. [2J m. N. W. is 
 the village of Edith Weston , whepe 
 was a small alien priory attached to 
 the Benedictine house of St.George at 
 Banquerville in Normandy. It after- 
 wards passed to the Carthusians of 
 Coventry. The church has a good 
 Dec. spire. The chancel arch is 
 Trans.-Norm., and should be com- 
 pared with the work of the hall at 
 Oakham. The place is named from 
 Eadgyth or Edith, wife of the Con- 
 fessor and sister of Harold, who, as 
 we learn from the Domesday Sur- 
 vey, had much property in this part 
 of England. 1 m. N. the park of 
 Normanton (Lord Aveland) is en- 
 tered, well wooded, and stretching 
 along a range of higher ground. 
 Normanton has been for some gene- 
 rations in the hands of the Heath- 
 cotes, and the then baronet was 
 created Baron Aveland in 1856. He 
 had been for 36 years a Member of 
 Parliament. The house is entirely 
 modern, and dates, for the most part, 
 from the beginning of the present 
 century. There are a few pictures, 
 but of no great importance. A 
 stream, which flows through the 
 park, joins the Biver Gwash at its 
 northern extremity. The rare Gen- 
 tiana autumnalis occurs here.] 
 
 From Luffenham the railway 
 passes to the next station at Manton, 
 leaving on the 1., very near the line, 
 the little churches of Pilton and 
 of Wing, neither of interest. (1 m. 
 N. of Pilton stat. is the village of 
 Lyndon. In the wall of the church 
 is inserted a head -stone for William 
 Whiston, the “ theologian ” and man 
 of science, who died at Lyndon Hall 
 in 1752, aged 81. His daughter had 
 married a Mr. Baker, owner of the 
 hall.) At 
 
 Manton Stat. an omnibus for 
 Uppingham (3 m., see Rte. 2) at- 
 tends some of the trains. [The 
 Midland Ely. has a new line in 
 course (1878) of construction from 
 
 [Northants, &c .] 
 
 Manton to Rushton, in Northampton- 
 shire. It passes by a tunnel about 
 2 m. long, from Gretton towards 
 Corby, and crosses the Welland at 
 Haringworth by a very lofty viaduct 
 of 22 arches.] The little church of 
 Manton lies near the station, rt. ; 
 and that of Martinsthorpe about 1 
 m. 1. The country has little interest, 
 and there is nothing which calls for 
 notice, until we reach 
 
 Oakham Stat ; the principal town 
 of Rutland. ( Inns : the Crown , old 
 and tolerably good ; the White Lion.) 
 The population of Oakham in 1871 
 was 2911. The town is large and 
 straggling, with the church and 
 castle near its northern end. These 
 and a mediaeval house in the princi- 
 pal street are the sole objects of 
 interest in Oakham ; but church, 
 castle, and house will repay careful 
 attention. The town is by no means 
 a place of bustle or of movement. 
 Quarter Sessions are held in the 
 Castle hall; but the by-streets are 
 grass-grown, and the old importance 
 of Oakham has departed. ( The 
 stranger should ask at his inn for 
 the persons who keep the keys of ch . 
 and castle.) 
 
 The * Church of All Saints, with 
 its noble tower and spire, at once 
 attracts attention. It was reopened 
 in 1858, after a restoration under Sir 
 G. G. Scott. The church consists 
 of W. tower, nave with N. and S. 
 aisles, transept with double aisles, 
 and chancel with N. and S. aisles, 
 nearly of equal breadth. The build- 
 ing, as we now see it, is (in the 
 words of Sir G. G. Scott’s report) 
 “ the work of several different pe- 
 riods, from the end of the 12th to 
 the beginning of the 16th cents. Its 
 earliest feature is the inner doorway 
 of the porch, which is of the end of 
 the 12th cent. The next in date 
 are the interior of the porch itself, 
 and the lower parts of the S. wall, 
 with a blank recess or window on 
 the E. side of the S. transept. These 
 are of the first half of the 13th cent. 
 
 L 
 
218 
 
 Boate 1 . — Oakham : Church and Castle . 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 Then come the corresponding parts 
 of the N. aisle, with the single pil- 
 lars in both transepts. The chancel 
 arch and some minor portions are of 
 the beginning of the 14th cent.” 
 (The nave arcade is Geometrical 
 Decorated, circ. 1320.) “ The tower, 
 with perhaps the pillars and arches 
 of the same, and some other por- 
 tions, are of the latter part of the 
 same century; while the chancel, 
 and the clerestory, and probably the 
 X. chancel aisle, are of the 15th, 
 and the S. chancel aisle of the 16th 
 cent. Various, however, as are the 
 dates of these different portions of 
 the church, they unite in forming a 
 symmetrical and harmonious whole, 
 having generally the aspect of a 
 church of the 15th cent.” Outside the 
 church, remark the fine composition 
 of the W. front of the tower, in which 
 the portal is united with the great 
 window above. Over the window 
 are 3 niches, retaining the figures 
 of Oar Lord and two saints. The 
 narrow stages of the tower are 
 marked by set-offs running across 
 the whole front. The corbel tables 
 throughout are curious, with gro- 
 tesque figures. The buttresses are 
 excellent ; and a striking feature is 
 the late Dec. battlement of the S. 
 porch, with its beautiful central or- 
 nament — a crucifix within rich do- 
 nation. Inside the church, the main 
 arcade should be noticed. Its capi- 
 tals are much enriched with gro- 
 tesques, animals, leafage, the em- 
 blems of the Evangelists, and angel 
 heads with wings. The E. win- 
 dow of the chancel is modern, and of 
 geometrical character. The roofs of 
 chancel and S. aisle are new. That 
 of the N. chancel aisle (oak panel- 
 led) is aucient. The font is a round 
 bowl, with an interlacing arcade, 
 but placed on a base of later date 
 and character. The modern stained 
 glass windows are (N. chancel) by 
 Clayton and Bell , and (the E. win- 
 dow) Hardman. In the N. chancel 
 aisle is a flat altar-tomb, with qua- 
 
 trefoils in sunk square panels ; and 
 in each quatrefoil the figure of a 
 bell. There is no inscription ; and 
 the tomb has not been appropriated. 
 The church belonged to the abbey 
 of Westminster from (at least) the 
 beginning of the reign of Hen. III. 
 until the dissolution of the abbey. 
 Various benefactors, however, may 
 have assisted in the building of its 
 different parts ; and the spire is said 
 to have been erected by one of the 
 Flores, a family once of great im- 
 portance in Oakham. 
 
 From the church the visitor may 
 proceed at once to the Castle , which 
 adjoins the churchyard oh the east. 
 The dykes and fosses of two great 
 courts are conspicuous ; but all ma- 
 sonry has disappeared, with the ex- 
 ception of a remarkable hall of the 
 late Norman (Transitional) period, 
 and some fragments of wall sur- 
 rounding the inner court. No other 
 example of such an isolated Norman 
 hall remains in this country, al- 
 though many (but of earlier date) 
 occur in great keep towers, as at 
 Rochester, Richmond, Hedingham, 
 Newcastle, and elsewhere. 
 
 There is no record of a castle at 
 Oakham until the reign of Hen. II., 
 when the manor was granted to 
 Walcheline de Ferrars, who became 
 Baron of Oakham. The foundation 
 of the castle is generally assigned 
 to him, and the peculiar custom of 
 the manor, by which a horseshoe is 
 claimed from every baron who passes 
 for the first time through the lord- 
 ship, has been thought to indicate 
 an early connection with the house 
 of Ferrars, the shield of which was 
 “ semee of horseshoes.” But Oakham 
 was only connected with the Ferrars 
 during the lives of Walcheline and 
 of his son Hugh. Castle and manor 
 afterwards passed through various 
 hands. Hen. III. in 1251 gave them 
 to his brother Richard of Cornwall. 
 Edward II. granted them to Ed- 
 mund of Woodstock. The De Bo- 
 hun Earls of Northampton held the 
 
Jutland. 
 
 Route 1 . — Oakham : the Castle . 
 
 219 
 
 castle for some time ; and the well- j 
 known Robert de Yere, Earl of Ox- 
 ford, the favourite of Richard II., 
 obtained manor and castle for his 
 life. Thev were bestowed bv Hen. 
 VIII. on Cromwell, Earl of Essex. 
 They passed afterwards to Charles, 
 2nd Duke of Buckingham; and so 
 to the Earl of Nottingham, ancestor 
 of the Earls of Winchelsea, the pre- 
 sent possessors. 
 
 The castle of Oakham was the 
 principal, if not the only fortress in 
 the county of Rutland. Whether 
 the earthworks of the inner court 
 (in which stands the hall) are those 
 of an earlier stronghold, British or 
 Roman, is not perhaps certain ; but 
 no early remains have been found 
 here, and no ancient road passed in 
 this direction. At present, the 
 ground-plan shows an outer court 
 toward the north, a long parallelo- 
 gram, surrounded by a deep trench 
 (there are at present no traces of a 
 wall), which is broader on the side 
 between this and the inner court. 
 This inner court is of less size, and 
 of irregular shape, somewhat cir- 
 cular. The court of it is sunk with- 
 in the enclosing mound and wall. 
 The mound becomes higher toward 
 the S.E. angle, as if for the founda- 
 tion of a tower. The hall stands 
 alone toward the S. side of the 
 court, is built E. and W., and is of 
 the latter part of the 12th cent., 
 showing distinct transition from 
 Norm, to E.. Eng. “It measures 
 65 ft. by 43 ft., and is divided by 
 two rows of pillars and arches, thus 
 cutting off two aisles which are lean- 
 tos. The arches rise from circular 
 pillars (3 on either side), with highly 
 enriched caps. There are no re- 
 sponds, the arches at the ends 
 springing from corbels. The prin- 
 cipal entrance was originally at 
 the E. end of the S. side, and there 
 are also 2 low segmental-headed 
 doors at the E. end, and another 
 door at theN.W., which have all com- 
 municated with the offices, as may 
 
 be seen by the foundations yet re- 
 maining.” T. Hudso?i Turner , k Dom. 
 Archt.’ There are 4 windows N. 
 and S., and one in the E. end gable. 
 These are all varied in detail, exter- 
 nally double lancets, and internally 
 round-headed ; but the openings for 
 light are square, the upper part of 
 the lancet being left solid, and set 
 with ornament. The angles of the 
 jambs are filled in with dog-tooth. 
 The principal doorway is of similar 
 character, with banded shafts and 
 dog-tooth. The pillars of the in- 
 terior arcade have bases with foot 
 ornaments and mouldings, which 
 are very E. Eng. The capitals are 
 rich and Corinthian, much varied. 
 
 “ Their whole character is very 
 similar to those at Canterbury and 
 Oxford cathedrals; but more so to 
 some foreign examples, as at Sois- 
 sons and Blois.” On the caps., at 
 the springing of the arches, are 
 human figures and animals, playing 
 on musical instruments. In the 
 aisles are human heads. The cor- 
 bels carrying the outer arches are 
 very fine, and unusual in design. 
 
 “ The one nearest the entrance door 
 at the E. end appears to be what is 
 heraldically called a ‘cat-a-moun- 
 tain,’ and is supported by the heads 
 of a king and queen, evidently those 
 of Hen. II. and his queen, Eleanor of 
 Guienne.” All these corbels are 
 noticeable. The roof was partly 
 erected by Charles, 2nd Duke of 
 Buckingham, and is partly modern. 
 The spring stones of the gables on 
 the N. side are supported by 2 heads, 
 and on the crests are large figures ; 
 that E. being a figure in a long sur- 
 coat, mounted on an animal ; that 
 W. being a much shattered sagittary. 
 
 On the walls of this remarkable 
 hall are disposed more than U*0 
 horseshoes, evidences of the ancient 
 “custom” of the manor, which has 
 been already mentioned. They are 
 of various sizes and forms, some 
 being gilt and surmounted by a 
 coronet. The earliest now here (ex- 
 l 2 
 
220 Route 1 . — Oakham : Flore's House ; School . Sect. II. 
 
 cept Q. Elizabeth) dates from 1694, 
 and was contributed by Baptist, E. 
 of Gainsborough. 5 Earls and Mar- 
 quises of Exeter also are repre- 
 sented; and at one end of the hall 
 are the gilt and crowned horseshoes 
 of Q. Elizabeth, of 44 George, Prince 
 Regent,” of Queen Victoria, and of 
 the Duke of Rutland. The custom 
 undoubtedly represents some early 
 privilege, probably a grant of 44 toll ” 
 on every horse passing through the 
 town (as was the case at Dover); 
 but the origin cannot be traced with 
 certainty. The county assize is held 
 in the hall. 
 
 The area of the court in which the 
 hall stands is covered with founda- 
 tions, and there is a well in it. There 
 are some large ash-trees ; but the 
 scene and site are more interesting 
 to the antiquary than to the artist. 
 (For all that is known of the early 
 history of Oakham castle and hall, 
 see a paper by the Rev. 0. H. Harts- 
 liorne, in the 4 Archaeological J our- 
 nal,’ vol. v.) 
 
 In the principal street, on the same 
 side as the Crown Inn, is an ancient 
 house which should be seen. It is 
 known as Flore’s House. The house 
 was originally E. Eng. of the 13th 
 cent., but was greatly altered in the 
 15th. In the original plan a hall 
 occupied the centre, with a wing at 
 each end projecting backward, but 
 in front in a line with the hall. The 
 principal doorway, good E. Eng., re- 
 mains ; and in the passage, which 
 seems to have led straight through to 
 the back of the house, is a drain, 
 projecting from the wall, and orna- 
 mented. “ The slab is sunk on all 
 four sides to the centre, where there 
 is a human head in relief, and under 
 it 4 holes for carrying off the water.” 
 At the point of the arch is a staple 
 for suspending something (a chained 
 dish or a towel). Such drains were 
 probably designed for the washing 
 of the guests’ hands before they 
 entered the hall. Other examples 
 occur. The eastern wing of the 
 
 house now projects much in front, 
 and in it is a square double window 
 of the 15th cent. Roger Flore, to 
 whom the house is assigned by local 
 tradition, died about 1483; and may 
 have altered the older building. He 
 was a me4chant, and a great bene- 
 factor to Oakham. 
 
 In the market-place is the Butter - 
 cross , raised on 6 wooden posts. The 
 town stocks are slowly mouldering 
 under the roof. Near the cross is 
 the newly-built Grammar School, 
 with a good master’s house. This 
 school, like that at Uppingham (see 
 Rte. 2), was founded in the reign of 
 Elizabeth by Robert Johnson, Arch- 
 deacon of Leicester and vicar of N. 
 Lutfenliam. The arrangements were 
 at first the same as at Uppingham 
 (see Rte. 2) ; and the modern system 
 is the same in both schools, but under 
 a new scheme, and with due appli- 
 cation of the now very large funds. 
 Oakham Grammar School has ex- 
 hibitions to the annual value of 
 1000?. The old school-house (built 
 in Charles I.’s time) is in the church- 
 yard, and has on one side the in- 
 scription, “ Schola Latina, Grseca, 
 Hebraica with texts in the three 
 languages. On the outskirts of the 
 town is the Hospital of St. John , 
 founded about 1390, by William 
 Dalbv, a merchant of Exton. The 
 small chapel is of this date, with 
 Perp. windows. 
 
 The only celebrity of Oakham is 
 Jeffry Hudson, dwarf of the Queen 
 Henrietta Maria. He figures in 
 Scott’s 4 Peveril of the Peak/ and is 
 called by Fuller (‘Worthies’) “the 
 least man of the least county in Eng- 
 land.” He was born in the parish, 
 where 44 his father was a very proper 
 man, broad-shouldered and chested, 
 though his son never arrived at a 
 full ell in stature.” His father “ pre- 
 sented him at Burley-on-the-Hill to 
 the Duchess of Buckingham, being 
 then nine years of age, and scarce a 
 foot and a half in height, as I am 
 informed ” (continues Fuller) 44 by 
 
Butland. Route 1 . — Vale of Catmose — Langham. 
 
 221 
 
 credible persons then and there per- 
 sent and still alive. Instantly Jeffry 
 was heightened (not in stature but in 
 condition) from one degree above 
 rags into silk and satin, and two tall 
 men to attend him.” He afterwards 
 made his first appearance at court 
 “ in a cold baked pie,” went with the 
 Queen to France in 1644, shot Mr. 
 Crofts in a duel, returned at the 
 Restoration, was imprisoned on sus- 
 picion of being concerned in the 
 Popish plot, and died 1682. He ap- 
 pears in attendance on the Queen in 
 a picture by Vandyke, belonging to 
 the Earl of Portarlington. 
 
 Oakham is a good centre from 
 which to visit Burley, Cottesmore, 
 and the churches in that direction 
 (They are described in Rte. 3.) 
 Exton (Rte. 4) is perhaps better 
 reached from Stamford, but may be 
 included in a day’s round from Oak- 
 ham. The little churches of Egleton 
 and Hambleton, S.W. of Oakham, are 
 of no great interest ; but Langhcim, 
 2 m. N.E., on the road to Melton 
 Mowbray, should be visited. 
 
 [The road passes through what is 
 known as the Vale of Catmose , al- 
 though travellers accustomed to a 
 more hilly region will hardly re- 
 cognise the valley. For the etymo- 
 logy of the name Camden suggests 
 “ Coet maes ” ( Brit. ), a “ woody 
 
 plain ; ” but this explanation is at 
 least doubtful. This is the best and 
 richest part of Rutland. 
 
 “ Bring forth that British vale, and be it 
 ne’er so rare, 
 
 But Catmus with that vale for richness may 
 compare,” 
 
 are the words of Drayton (‘ Poly- 
 olbion’); and the land maintains 
 its old reputation. The country is 
 hardly picturesque. At 1 m. the 
 road passes through the village of 
 Barley thorpe , where are the kennels 
 of the Cottesmore Hunt, removed 
 here from Cottesmore in 1870, and 
 arranged for 80 couples of hounds, j 
 This country, it must be remembered, 
 
 represents the “ happiest ” hunting- 
 ground in England. The Leicester- 
 shire border is close at hand, and 
 Melton Mowbray at no great distance. 
 The large Elizabethan house at Bar- 
 ley thorpe belongs to the Earl of 
 Lonsdale, and was built in 1848. 
 
 Another mile brings lis to Lang- 
 ham, a straggling village of the 
 Northamptonshire type, with a very 
 fine church, restored , the nave under 
 Bodley and Garner , the chancel by 
 Christian . The plan shows a broad 
 nave and aisles, which end at the 
 chancel arch, a S« transeptal chapel, 
 a deep chancel, of the same width as 
 the nave, and a W. tower. There 
 was a N. transept, pulled down in 
 the last cent. Like Oakham, this 
 church at Langham shows the work 
 of different periods, but in the 
 same way the chief impression is 
 that of a 15th-cent. building, and 
 there is so much general resem- 
 blance that it is hardly possible 
 to doubt that the same designers 
 were at work on both churches. 
 The earliest portions are E. Eng. An 
 E. Eng. lancet remains on the N. 
 side of the chancel, though the other 
 windows are Perp. insertions. The 
 chancel roof is modern. The main 
 arcade dates from the second half of 
 the 13th cent., and resembles the 
 piers of the transepts at Oakham. 
 There are well -sculptured heads at 
 the terminations of the arch mould- 
 ings. The clerestory is somewhat 
 later. The E. and W. windows of 
 the N. aisle are good curvilinear 
 and on the N. side of the E. window 
 is a curious bracket, displaying a 
 figure crouching with elbows on 
 knees, holding the mouth open with 
 the hands and projecting the tongue. 
 In the 8. aisle the windows are all 
 Perp., as is the font. The S. tran- 
 sept, originally E. Eng., has been 
 much altered in Perp. times. In the 
 S. wall is an E. Eng. trefoil-headed 
 piscina, and there is a large Perp. 
 window S. of it. On the floor in the 
 eastern aisle of the transept is a 
 
222 
 
 Route 2 . — Manton to Rockingham . 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 curious incised slab for John Dick- 
 enson, d. 1535, and wife. He wears 
 a merchant's gown with furred collar 
 and sleeves ; a long, stocking-shaped 
 purse is fastened round the lady’s 
 waist, and hangs low in front. The 
 open nave roof (Perp.) is old and 
 good. The modern seats are plain, 
 but well arranged, and the whole 
 effect of the interior is excellent. 
 Outside the church, remark the E. 
 Eng. tower, with a spire of later date. 
 The very fine belfry windows are 
 enriched with dog-tooth. Under the 
 parapet of the clerestory are good 
 Perp. gurgoyles, and, generally, the 
 parapets with their corbel tables are 
 Perp. The great Perp. window of 
 the S. transept has a cornice with 
 curious figures in the gable, which 
 rises at the point into a crucifix, as 
 at Oakham, but here the figure is 
 gone. 
 
 There is a belief, not apparently 
 founded on existing evidence, that 
 the church was rebuilt by Simon of 
 Langham, Archbp. of Canterbury 
 (a.d. 1366-1368). It is said that he 
 was born here, and that, following 
 the example of many prelates of his 
 day, he “ rebuilt ” the church of his 
 birthplace. This can only mean 
 that he made the Perpendicular 
 changes in the church, and perhaps 
 founded a chantry for himself and 
 parents in the S. transept. The in- 
 sertion of the large Perp. window 
 there looks as if it were designed to 
 light some special altar or relic shrine. 
 Langham had been Bishop of Ely, 
 Treasurer of England, and Lord 
 Chancellor, before his elevation to 
 the Primacy.] 
 
 Returning lo Oakham, we proceed 
 on our course by the rly. Leaving 
 Burley-on-the-bill (see Rte. 3) on 
 the rt., and skirting for a short time 
 the Melton and Oakham canal, we 
 reach 
 
 Ashwell Stat. Rt. is seen the O/n, 
 which has been restored. It has Dec. 
 and Perp. portions, and the E. win- 
 dow is Dec. curvilinear. Three mo- 
 
 numents deserve attention. One, of 
 wood, is the cross-legged effigy of an 
 unknown knight, temp. Hen. III., 
 another is the effigy of a priest in 
 eucharistic vestments. The third 
 has the figures of John Yernam, circ. 
 1479, and Rose his wife. The next 
 stat . is Whissendine , the village of 
 which name lies 1 \ m. S., in a country 
 more broken and varied than that 
 through which the rly. passes, and 
 commanding wide views over Leices- 
 tershire. The Leicestershire border 
 is speedily crossed ; and passing a 
 stat. at Saxby , the train reaches 
 Melton Mowbray stat. (See Hand- 
 book for Leicestershire .) 
 
 BOUIE 2. 
 
 MANTON TO ROCKINGHAM, BY 
 UPPINGHAM (Road. LIDD1NG- 
 TON, STOKE DRY. 
 
 [A branch line of the Midland 
 Rly. is (1878) in course of construc- 
 tion from Manton to Rushton, in 
 Northamptonshire, where it will join 
 the main line of the Midland. ] 
 
 An omnibus runs twice daily from 
 Manton to Uppingham, 3J m. (Up- 
 pingham is also reached from the 
 Seaton Stat. on the line from Rugby 
 to Stamford, 3 m. An omnibus runs 
 from Uppingham, and meets certain 
 trains at Seaton.) 
 
 The drive from Manton to Up- 
 pingham takes us through a country 
 of no great interest, rising into long 
 ridges, but not picturesque. Wide 
 views are occasionally commanded 
 to the N.W., over part of Northamp- 
 
Kutland. 
 
 223 
 
 Route 2 . — Preston — Uppingham. 
 
 tonshire. These long ridges running 
 E. and W. are perhaps the most 
 marked features of Kutland, and 
 render the construction of a rly. 
 from N. to S. somewhat difficult. 
 The peculiar red soil of the district 
 round Man ton may, it has been 
 said, have suggested the name of 
 Kut- ( rud , A.S. red) land. But 
 this is altogether uncertain, and the 
 red soil covers no great extent of 
 country. The road crosses the little 
 stream of the Chater, and at 1J m. 
 from Manton passes the village of 
 
 Preston , where the ch. stands 
 high, and is a good landmark. It 
 has a massive tower and spire. The 
 tower buttresses are set on at the 
 angles. The Dec. spire is of varied 
 stone — the lower part dark, the 
 centre light with a single dark band, 
 the top darker. There are good 
 spire lights. Within, the main 
 arcade is Norm, on the N. side, with 
 round piers and arches. On the S. 
 it is E. Eng., though the arches are 
 still round-headed, and the caps, 
 plain and hollowed. The chancel 
 retains traces of Norm, windows, 
 but was much altered in E. Eng. 
 and Dec. times. A canopied niche, 
 on the S. side below the plain sedile, 
 may perhaps have served as an 
 Easter sepulchre. The aisles are 
 carried E. of the chancel arch, and 
 round-headed arches with nail-head 
 ornament open to them from the 
 chancel, N. and S. The font is 
 E. Eng. The ch. has been restored, 
 and the walls are scraped and bare 
 after the bad modern fashion ; but 
 it is an interesting building, well 
 cared for. There is some modern 
 stained glass. 
 
 [In Bidlington Ch. (1 J m. W.) is 
 a 16th-cent. monument for Sir John 
 Harington and his w 7 ife. In the 
 church-vard of Ayston , which lies off 
 the road to the rt. 1 m. beyond 
 Preston, there are two shattered 
 effigies in the church-yard, so much 
 defaced that it is difficult to assign 
 a date to them.] 
 
 Leaving the tower of Ayston rt., 
 we reach, 1 m. beyond, the tow 7 n of 
 Uppingham. The road from Preston 
 is pleasantly wooded in the hollows. 
 
 Uppingham, ( Inn : the Falcon, 
 fairly good ; Pop. in 1871, 2464), 
 although nominally a place of 
 less importance than Oakham, 
 has far more life, owing to the 
 Grammar School, which has been 
 raised from inferiority to a state of 
 great excellence by the present head- 
 master, the Kev. E. Thring. The 
 town consists of one long street, 
 vdth a market-place opening from 
 it, at one side of which is the ch. 
 The marked features of Upping- 
 ham, however, are the modern 
 school-buildings, designed by G. E. 
 Street , toward the centre of the 
 town ; and the many school-houses 
 (11 or 12) for the reception of 
 boarders. These are on the out- 
 skirts of the town, and are suffi- 
 ciently conspicuous. The large 
 building at the W. end of Upping- 
 ham is appropriated to the Lower 
 School, for boys under 13. 
 
 Uppingham does not appear in 
 Domesday, and the place is briefly 
 and disparagingly mentioned by 
 Leland and Camden. It seems to 
 have been famous for trencher- 
 making, since an “ Uppingham 
 trencher ” is a saying still known 
 in the county. The foundation of 
 such prosperity as the place now 
 enjoys was laid by the foundation 
 of the Free or Grammar School, 
 in 1584, by Robert Johnson, Arch- 
 deacon of Leicester, who also 
 founded the school at Oakham. 
 (See Rte. 1.) The original plan 
 was liberal, and provided for the 
 sending of scholars to the Universi- 
 ties. Much land was attached to 
 these schools, and the income thence 
 derived is now considerable. Up- 
 pingham School is now under the 
 direction of trustees ; and, under 
 the present bead-master, the Kev. 
 E. Thring, it has attained very 
 considerable distinction. The staff 
 
224: 
 
 Route 2. — Uppingham: School; Church . Sect. II. 
 
 consists of head-master, usher, 
 master of the lower school, and 
 22 assistant masters (15 of whom 
 are graduates of Oxford or Cam- 
 bridge). The two schools (upper 
 and lower) contain at present (1878) 
 about 400 boys. These are dis- 
 tributed in the various school -houses, 
 each under the superintendence of 
 a master. Each boy has a separate 
 small study, and the long airy 
 dormitories are divided into cubicles. 
 Three exhibitions, of the value re- 
 spectively of 60Z,, 50 Z., and 40 Z., are 
 open every year, “ tenable at some 
 University, or other place of learned, 
 scientific, or professional education.” 
 There are also 16 exhibitions at 
 Cambridge (St. John’s, Clare, Em- 
 manuel, and Sidney Sussex — 4 at 
 each college) of about 30 1. each, “ to 
 which scholars from Uppingham 
 and Oakham have the preference.” 
 An English scholarship of 20 1., 
 tenable at the school for 2 years, 
 is assigned every year, after Easter ; 
 and there are also four scholarships 
 for boys under 14, two of 50Z. and 
 two of 30 1. a year, tenable at the 
 school for 3 years, and assigned 
 annually on Easter Tuesday ; besides 
 two of 53 Z., tenable at the school for 
 2 years for boys under 17. With 
 these advantages, with a system 
 embracing all modern requirements, 
 and with a most energetic direction, 
 it is not surprising that Uppingham 
 should have reached its present 
 distinction. 
 
 The group of school buildings , 
 designed by G. E. Street , R.J., and 
 including a chapel, should be visited. 
 They form two sides of a quad- 
 rangle, the rest of which will, it is 
 hoped, be eventually completed. 
 The principal schoolroom is 88 feet 
 by 30, and is chiefly lighted by a 
 large window on the S. side, with 
 double shafts. Under the cornices 
 are inscribed the names of such old 
 pupils as have distinguished them- 
 selves at the Universities, or else- 
 where. The chapel has attached to 
 
 it a circular campanile with 3 bells. 
 Within, it is very striking. The 
 general character is 1st (Geomet- 
 rical) Decorated. The E. window 
 is filled with stained glass by Clay- 
 ton and Bell , “ First-fruits from old 
 boys, 1870.” Other windows are 
 memorials ; and under those on the 
 N. side is a series of sunk panels in 
 alabaster for inscriptions recording 
 old scholars of Uppingham who 
 have died at school or soon after 
 leaving it. In the second bay from 
 the E. are rich brackets, with shafts 
 carrying figures of the Evangelists 
 — 2 on either side. At the W. end 
 is a rose-window, with gallery below. 
 The roof is open and good. The 
 whole (chapel and school building) 
 is in the local stone (Morcot and 
 Clipsham) belonging to the same 
 oolite as the Ketton stone. (Hte. 1.) 
 
 After the school, the only object 
 of interest in Uppingham is the 
 Ch ., which has (1877 ) been almost 
 rebuilt. Leland described the old 
 ch. as u very meane ; ” and the 
 present building retains little more 
 than the main arcade, with the 
 tower and spire. Uppingham can 
 now boast of a very good ch., with 
 much enrichment of sculpture and 
 general decoration. The arcade is 
 early Dec., the tower late Dec., and 
 the spire has good spire lights. 
 Some very graceful original painting 
 has been uncovered (and remains) 
 on the arches of the main arcade. 
 The principal pattern is flowing, in 
 red, and on the soffetes are red 
 stars. In the chancel, which is 
 entirely modern, the carved capitals, 
 designed from natural leafage, de- 
 serve notice. The reredos is of 
 alabaster, set with agates. The 
 font is carved ftv m a large solid 
 block of serpentine, and is grand, 
 though a little sombre. The pulpit 
 is a framework with carved panels 
 of the 17th cent., and a good example 
 of that period. It has a special 
 interest from the fact that Jeremy 
 Taylor may have often preached 
 
Rutland. 
 
 Houle 2 . — Glaiston— Morcott. 
 
 225 
 
 from it. The Rectory of Upping- 
 ham was given to .Taylor by Arch- 
 bishop Laud, to whom he had been 
 chaplain. He was rector here at 
 the outbreak of the Civil War ; but 
 was so marked a champion of the 
 King and of the Church that his ( 
 living was speedily sequestrated, j 
 King Charles then made Taylor one 
 of his chaplains, and he never re- 
 turned to Uppingham. 
 
 At the E. end of the church-yard 
 is the old schoolhouse, of precisely 
 the same character as that at Oak- 
 ham. Both date apparently from 
 the beginning of the reign of 
 Charles I. This at Uppingham has 
 over the door an inscription in 
 Hebrew, Greek, and Latin, 44 Re- 
 member thy Creator in the days of 
 thy youth.” The contrast between 
 this humble building and Mr. Street's 
 new 44 group ” is sufficiently striking. 
 
 [The country W. of Uppingham 
 was included within the bounds 
 of the ancient forest of Leafield or 
 Lyfield, which occupied the greater 
 part of the hundreds of Oakham 
 and Martinsley. Its origin is un- 
 certain, but some parts were afforested 
 in the reign of John. The office of 
 chief forester was attached to the 
 manor of Leigh, which is nearly in 
 the centre of the old forest district, 
 and seems to have given name to it. 
 The southern portion (S. of Upping- 
 ham) was known as Beaumont 
 Chase. The western boundary of 
 the forest was almost throughout 
 conterminous with that of the 
 county. There are still some 
 patches of ancient wood about 
 Wardley and Belton, small villages 
 W. of Uppingham (the churches 
 are without interest), but the country 
 is hardly attractive. 
 
 An omnibus runs daily from Up- 
 pingham to the stat. at Seaton, on 
 the line of the Stamford rly. Seaton 
 Church , seen in passing, has a good 
 E. Eng. chancel, with a later tower 
 and spire. It has been restored. 
 
 The churches of Glaiston (2 m. 
 E. of Uppingham) and Morcott (2 m. 
 beyond Glaiston) are of some in- 
 terest. At Glaiston the nave ar- 
 cade is Trans.-Norm., with octagonal 
 piers and pointed arches. The tower 
 is central, and perhaps E. Eng. 
 The chancel, long and well de- 
 veloped, is almost modern, and of 
 Dec. character. The windows of 
 the chancel, and some of those in 
 the aisles, are square-headed. 
 
 On the road to Glaiston is passed 
 rt. Bisbrooke Hall (Hon. W. C. 
 Evans-Freke). In the village of 
 Glaiston is a house of some former 
 importance, built toward the middle 
 of the 17th cent, by one of the 
 Sherards, Earls of Harborough. 
 Through an up-and-down, rich, but 
 not picturesque country, we pass to 
 Morcott , a large straggling village, 
 containing many old houses, one or 
 two of which may be of the 17th, 
 but most of the 18th century. The 
 Church is curious. The nave, of 
 two bays, is late Norm, with circular 
 piers and enriched capitals, all 
 different. The N. arcade is earlier 
 than that on the S. side ; and the 
 pointed chancel arch, with nail- 
 head, seems later still. The chancel, 
 at first Norm., was nearly rebuilt in 
 Perp. times. Under a window in 
 the S. aisle is a broad, low tomb- 
 recess of Dec. character, within 
 which is a plain altar-tomb, with 
 incised cross and inscription, 44 Wil- 
 lielm de Overtoun gist ici, Dieu de 
 salme eyt merci. Amen.” The W. 
 tower arch is early Norm., with 
 rudely-sculptured capitals, one of 
 which represents twisted serpents. 
 The W. doorway has a pointed arch, 
 with two orders of shatts, and was 
 altered when a Dec. window was in- 
 serted above it. There are round- 
 headed Norm, doors in S. aisle and 
 chancel.] 
 
 The high road from Uppingham 
 to Rockingham (5 m.) passes over 
 l 3 
 
226 
 
 Route 2 . — Stoke Dry. 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 high ground, and commands some 
 really fine views to the S. and W. 
 At If m. a by-road turns off rt. to 
 Stoke Dry , where the church, with 
 its Digby monuments, is worth a 
 visit. The place is noticeable as (in 
 Camden's words) “ the ancient home 
 of the famous and ancient family of 
 the Digbys,” who were settled here 
 in the middle of the 15 th cent. At 
 an earlier period the manor had 
 been held by the house of Morewood. 
 Of the manor house nothing re- 
 mains. It stood well, on high ground, 
 looking over a much tossed, wooded 
 country beyond the Leicestershire 
 border, which is here close at hand, 
 and is marked by the course of the 
 little River Eye. The Church is 
 placed on a high bank, nearly oppo- 
 site the site of the manor-house, with 
 a deep country road between. The 
 church, originally Norman, was al- 
 most entirely rebuilt in the E. Eng. 
 and early Dec. periods. The N. 
 arcade is E. Eng., and the piers are 
 graceful, with 4 attached shafts. 
 The S. arcade is very early Dec. 
 with the nail-head in the caps., and 
 plain round piers. The S. arcade, 
 later than the N., is much wider, and 
 an arch at the E. end, now blocked, 
 opened to an early Dec. chapel, now 
 serving as a vestry. The stone used 
 in the arches is of two colours, 
 whitish and dark brown. The 
 chancel arch is very noticeable, since 
 it is a mixture of Dec. work and 
 Norm. A much enriched Norm, 
 shaft remains N. and S., covered with 
 curious and very rude carving of men 
 and animals. On the N. side the 
 capital remains, and shows a winged 
 figure holding a book and wearing 
 what may be alb and chasuble. On 
 either side are monsters. A lofty 
 screen, with overhanging roodloft, 
 crosses the chancel arch, but the 
 tracery of the arch openings has 
 been broken away. In the E. wall 
 of the chancel are — N. a large 
 aumbrie or locker, and S. a piscina 
 blocked by a great Digby monument. 
 
 This is the tomb of Kenelm Digby, 
 Esq., died 21 April, 1590, and of 
 Anne, his wife. The two effigies 
 are in alabaster. Ho is in armour, 
 bareheaded, and holds in one hand 
 something (concealed) which is sus- 
 pended from his neck by a large 
 double chain. She holds a book in 
 her clasped hands. The cushions 
 for the heads have been gilt and 
 painted. Round the base are figures 
 of weepers, wearing the great ruff of 
 the later years of Elizabeth. The 
 eldest son, with a double chain like 
 his father’s, supports a shield with 
 the Digby arms (a fleur de lys) and 
 motto “Nul ove ung” — “None but 
 one.’* At one end are the arms of 
 Digby and Cope, impaled. (The 
 whole treatment of this fine tomb 
 precisely resembles one in the chan- 
 cel of Rockingham church for Ed- 
 ward Watson and his wife, who was 
 a daughter of this Kenelm Digby, 
 see Northants, Rte. 11). In the S. 
 chapel (now the vestry) is the much 
 defaced effigy of a Digby, circ. Hen. 
 YI. (?), with the fleur de lys on his 
 enormous shield. There is an early 
 Dec. window in this chapel, S. The 
 E. window, like that of the chancel, 
 is late Dec. On the wall are traces 
 of painting, — King Edmund mar- 
 tyred by the Danes, and other sub- 
 jects, much obscured. In the S. 
 aisle of the nave is the altar-tomb of 
 Jacquetta Digby, d. 1496. The top 
 of the tomb is a large slab of English 
 alabaster, with incised figure and 
 inscriptions. She wears a close head- 
 dress, and long robe, with chain and 
 pomander-box. 
 
 The Digbys settled at Stoke Dry 
 early in the 15th cent., and the place 
 long remained their chief possession. 
 It was the home of Sir Everard 
 Digby, famous for his share in the 
 Gunpowder Plot, and for his death 
 in consequence. The Digbys had 
 maintained the “ old profession, 1 ” and 
 the father of Sir Everard, “ a person 
 of great worth and learning,” was the 
 author of some curious treatises. Sir 
 
Rutland. 
 
 227 
 
 'Route 2 . — ■ Lyddington . 
 
 Everard himself suffered the death 
 of a traitor “ at the W. end of St. 
 Paul’s church in London,” January 
 30th, 1606. His wife was Mary, 
 daughter and sole heiress of William 
 Mulsho of Gothurst in Buckingham- 
 shire, where their more famous son, 
 Sir Kenelm, was born in 1603. Sir 
 Kenelm succeeded to his father’s 
 estates, which (by virtue of an old 
 settlement) could not be alienated as 
 a result of Sir Everard’s treason : 
 but he had little connection with 
 Stoke Dry beyond that of ownership. 
 
 From Stoke Dry we return to the 
 main road, and immediately crossing 
 it, descend on the village of Lyd- 
 dington. The church tower rises in 
 front, surrounded by trees, and the 
 view is pleasant. On the heights 
 above and beyond the Welland, here 
 the boundary of Rutland, the villages 
 of Gretton and Harringworth are 
 seen, each gathered round its church. 
 
 Lyddington is worth visiting for 
 the sake of the Church , and of a pic- 
 turesque Bede-house or hospital, 
 formed by the 3rd Lord Burghley 
 (1st Earl of Exeter) from portions 
 of a manor place once belonging to 
 the bishops of Lincoln. The manor 
 was in their hands from a period be- 
 fore the removal of the see from Dor- 
 chester to Lincoln, until the reign 
 of Edw. VI., when it was resigned to 
 the king, who granted it to Gregory 
 Lord Cromwell. It afterwards came 
 to the 2nd Lord Burghley. The 
 long, scattered village of Lyddington 
 contains some houses which may 
 perhaps be of the 17th cent. ; but the 
 lingering of old fashions, and the 
 good stone near at hand, make it 
 difficult to assign a positive date to 
 them. The bede-liouse groups pic- 
 turesquely with the church, and an 
 arch connected with the former opens 
 to the ch.-yd. The fine Church is 
 late Dec. (chancel) and Perp. (nave 
 and aisles) ; but there is perhaps no 
 great interval between them. The 
 nave arches are lofty and light, car- 
 
 ried on slender piers with attached 
 shafts. There are heads at the in- 
 tersections, worth notice, as are the 
 corbels from which the timbers of the 
 aisle roofs spring. The aisle windows 
 are transomed, with 3 lights below 
 and 3 above. The roofs are original, 
 somewhat rough, but good. That 
 of the nave has a battlemented cor- 
 nice. The long chancel has fine 
 Dec. (flowing) windows. The altar 
 is not placed against the E. wall, 
 but is surrounded by a rail, on one 
 side of which is the date 1635. The 
 arrangement of that period is accord- 
 ingly preserved. On the chancel 
 floor is the brass of a civilian and 
 wife, temp. Edw. IV. A plate has 
 been inserted between the children, 
 who figure below, for a later worthy, 
 one Edward Watson, “ Justicise cus- 
 tor, arteque causidicus.” Another 
 brass , with a good example of the 
 “ butterfly ” headdress, is for the wife 
 of Robert Hardy, died 1486. The 
 chancel screen remains. The font 
 is square, with a good Jacobman 
 cover. The W. tower is Dec., and 
 an exterior addition (Perp.) has been 
 made to the W. door. 
 
 The Bede-house is on the W. side 
 of the church-yard, and an oriel and 
 3 windows of early Perp. character, 
 and very good, look into the yard. 
 These are the windows of the hall. 
 The chapel projects at a rt. angle 
 with the hall, on the W. The hall 
 chimney is carried up in the middle, 
 and a gable on either side has a 
 window. Below (E.), a lean-to ex- 
 tends, into which the doors of the 
 under rooms open. One of these has 
 a large fireplace. The whole seems 
 of one date, and is in fact the larger 
 portion of a manor-house, built by a 
 bishop of Lincoln toward the end of 
 the 14th cent. The hall was, how- 
 ever, ceiled and decorated, apparently 
 by Bp. Longlands (1521-1547). The 
 ceiling is in flat panels, with a 
 cornice of open carved work resem- 
 bling fan-tracery, unusual and strik- 
 ing. In the windows are fragments 
 
228 
 
 Route 3 . — Oahham to Clipsham. 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 of stained glass, with the red rose 
 crowned, small quarrels with roses 
 and leaves, and the mottoes “Dns 
 exaltacio mea ” — “ Delectare in 
 Dho.” In the hall is a Common 
 Prayer-book containing a MS. prayer 
 for the hospital, for the “ good Lord 
 Burghley,” his family, and descend- 
 ants. The Bible which accompanies 
 it has the following entry — “ In the 
 year 1816, there was a great snow 
 for five hours on the 12th of May, 
 and haile all the remaines of the 
 day. Witness, John Robert, War- 
 den.” The establishment is for a 
 warden, 12 poor men, and 2 women. 
 
 The ancient manor-house and its 
 demesne were surrounded by a wall 
 which enclosed a considerable space, 
 including in the line what is now a 
 barn, with massive buttresses. In 
 the field E. of the church-yard are 
 mounds and ridges, indicating fish- 
 ponds, and a formal “ plaisance.” 
 
 We return from Lyddington to the 
 high road ; but, with the exception 
 of wide prospects over Leicestershire 
 on the rt. and Northamptonshire on 
 the 1., there is nothing which calls for 
 notice until we reach (4 m. from Up- 
 pingham) Ccildecot, where the church, 
 otherwise uninteresting, contains a 
 curious E. Eng. font, square, with 
 chamfered edges, and unusual orna- 
 ment. At this junction of the little 
 River Eye with the Welland, meet 
 the counties of Leicestershire and 
 Northants. Rockingham station is 
 passed ; and the road ascends to the 
 castle and village (see Northants , 
 Rte. 11.) 
 
 ROUTE 3. 
 
 OAKHAM TO CLIPSHAM (k0AD).— 
 
 BURLEY-ON-THE-HILL; COTTES- 
 MORE; GREETHAM. 
 
 The distance from Oakham to 
 Clipsham is 9J m. The drive is for 
 the most part over high ground, and 
 after climbing Burley Hill wide views 
 are commanded over parts of Lei- 
 cestershire and Lincolnshire. The 
 country is much broken; but it is 
 true that no one should be sent into 
 Rutland in search of the picturesque. 
 Parts of the county, and especially 
 this N.E. division, belong to the 
 great hunter’s paradise, of which 
 Melton Mowbray is the capital. 
 Much of the ground hunted by the 
 Quorn is seen from the high ground 
 above Burley. 
 
 The road gradually ascends from 
 Oakham, and as we approach Burley 
 the view looking S. and S.W. is 
 really fine — no doubt the finest in 
 Rutland. The woods of Burley are 
 deep and rich, and the tower of Oak- 
 ham church rises well in the middle 
 distance, 
 
 Burley -on-the-Hill (G. H. Finch, 
 Esq.) is one of the most important 
 houses in the county, and is cer- 
 tainly the most conspicuous. Its 
 long, many-windowed front is seen 
 far and wide, and in such a district 
 of low elevations this place well 
 deserves its distinctive name. Burley 
 passed through a long succession of 
 owners to the Haringtons, who sold 
 it to James I.’s Duke of Bucking- 
 ham, the famous “ Steenie.” He 
 raised a great mansion here, “in- 
 ferior to few for the house,” says 
 Fuller ( Worthies ), “ superior to all 
 for the stable, where horses (if their 
 pabulum so plenty as their stabulum 
 stately) were the best accommodated 
 
 in England But this Burley 
 
 was since demolished in our civil 
 
Rutland. Route 3. — Burley- on-the-Hill — Cottesmore. 
 
 229 
 
 war.” A small garrison had been 
 placed in the house by the Parlia- 
 mentarian army, which at last, fear- 
 ing an attack from the Royalists, and 
 knowing themselves too weak for 
 resistance, set fire to the house and 
 abandoned it. The stable alone re- 
 mained. The house was a ruin when 
 it was sold by Charles Il.’s Duke to 
 Daniel Finch, Earl of Nottingham. 
 He rebuilt Burley in its present 
 form. The family of Finch after- 
 wards inherited the older title of 
 Winchelsea; and although Burley 
 has passed from the head of the 
 house, it remains in possession of the 
 same race. The park covers more 
 than 1000 acres, and contains some 
 fine old trees. The house is vast, 
 but has little to recommend it archi- 
 tecturally. It contains, some good 
 old tapestry, and there are a few 
 portraits of interest ; but the Win- 
 chelsea pictures and portraits are no 
 longer here. 
 
 The cliurch of Burley, which closely 
 adjoins the house, has been well re- 
 stored, and is interesting. It consists 
 of W. tower, nave with N. and 8. 
 airies, and chancel with aisles termi- 
 nating in the same line. The nave, 
 of 4 bays, is Trans, and E. Eng. 
 The N. arcade, with round piers 
 and arches, and caps, voluted, with a 
 little leafage, is Trans.-Norm. On 
 the S. side the piers are lighter, the 
 caps, have the nail-head, and the 
 arches are pointed. The square- 
 headed clerestory is an addition. 
 The tower arch is early Dec., and 
 there is a small Dec. W. window. 
 The square-headed aisle-windows 
 are of a good Dec. type. The chan- 
 cel has been much renovated, but 
 3 pointed arches, carried on round 
 piers with plain caps., open to the 
 aisle on either side. The E. window, 
 of Dec. character, is filled with 
 Hardman’ s glass, and serves as the 
 memorial of George, 9th Earl of W in- 
 chelsea and Nottingham. The re- 
 redos below has figures of the Sa- 
 viour and six Apostles. In the S. 
 
 aisle is a monument, with kneeling 
 figure by Chantrey, for Lady Char- 
 lotte Finch, d. 1813; and another 
 piece of modern sculpture, with 
 figures of cherubs and angels, for 
 the wife of G. H. Finch, d. 1865. 
 On the floor, E. of the tower-arch, 
 are the much-mutilated figures of a 
 knight and lady, temp. Hen. VI. ; 
 the lower part of his figure is broken. 
 On the slab is what seems to be 
 designed for a string of beads. 
 
 There is nothing to remark, be- 
 yond the wide view 1., until we 
 reach, 2 m. beyond Burley, the vil- 
 lage of 
 
 Cottesmore , once famous for the 
 kennels of the Cottesmore Hunt, 
 which have been lately removed to 
 Barley thorpe, near Oakham (see 
 Rte. 1). The sole point of interest 
 at Cottesmore at present is the church 
 (restored, but well), which is Dec. 
 and Perp., with a fine W. tower and 
 spire (the latter broached and angle- 
 ribbed). The interior, with wide 
 nave and chancel, is striking. The 
 whole seems Dec., including the wide 
 chancel-arch, but there have been 
 some curious and puzzling changes. 
 The first arch (from the E.) on the 
 N. side is a little lower than the rest, 
 and a mass of wall intervenes be- 
 tween it and the arch adjoining. 
 Piers and arches, however, seem of 
 one date ; but there are indications 
 in the masonry where the lower 
 arcade joint d the work eastward. 
 Possibly the eastern portion repre- 
 sents part of an older wall, in which an 
 attempt was made to work the Dec. 
 arcade. On the failure of this, the 
 rest of the arcade may have been 
 built from the ground and higher. 
 The tower-arch is not in the centre 
 of the nave. At the N. side is a 
 huge square buttress, with the lower 
 angles chamfered off. A short arch 
 is carried to this buttress from the 
 last bay of the nave-arcade. The 
 tower must therefore be earlier 
 (though not much) than the present 
 nave. The chancel is mainly Perp., 
 
230 
 
 Route 3. — Greetham — Clipsham. 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 but retains some earlier fragments. 
 The font (E. Eng. ?j has a remark- 
 able base, with the Crucifixion on one 
 side and a bishop with pastoral staff 
 on the other. On the exterior, note 
 that the S. door has Norm, zigzag, 
 and must have belonged to the 
 earlier church. A cornice of small 
 heads and grotesques (Dec.) runs 
 round aisles and clerestory. The 
 manor of Cottesmore belonged to the 
 Beauchamps, Earls of Warwick, until 
 the reign of Elizabeth. 
 
 The road proceeds to Greetliam, 
 a scattered village, where the church 
 is conspicuous for its noble Dec. 
 tower and spire. The base-mould- 
 ings of the tower are especially fine. 
 The two lower storeys are massive, 
 and are lighted only by the W. win- 
 - dow and small foiled openings in the 
 second storey. There is no W. door. 
 The buttresses are excellent. The 
 broach-spire is angled off from the 
 top of these buttresses, and does not 
 overhang ; a row of heads serves as a 
 corbel-table at the base. There are 
 3 tiers of spire lights, and large, 
 fine belfry windows, traceried. The 
 whole may date from about 1320, 
 and is an unusually good example. 
 Within, the nave-arcade, with lofty 
 and light arches, is Dec., and a sort 
 of transept has been projected on 
 the S. side. In the N. aisle are good 
 Dec. ( curvilinear) windows ; and at 
 the E. end, high in the wall, is a 
 small shallow niche, with a base of 
 open flowers, perhaps intended for a 
 figure. The chancel has 2 lancets 
 on the S. side, and on the sill of one 
 is laid the fragment of a sepulchral 
 stone or cross, with interlaced work. 
 The font is E. Eng., and curious. 
 The manor of Greetham belonged 
 to the Beauchamps until the reign 
 of Richard II. The church was 
 attached to the priory of the Holy 
 Sepulchre at Warwick. 
 
 Two miles beyond Greetham the 
 main road from Stamford to Newark 
 is crossed, and indifferent lanes lead 
 us to Stretton and Clipsham. AXStret- 
 
 ton (Street-town, — the name marks its 
 position close to a line of Roman road, 
 the Erming Street, now the main road 
 from Stamford) is a small church in 
 (1877) utter disrepair. The nave 
 arcade of 2 bays has been rich E. 
 Eng. with foliated caps. ; the piers 
 clustered, with smaller shafts, which 
 for the most part have been broken 
 away ; the arches round, with ribbed 
 mouldings. The chancel ar<-h is 
 carried on brackets, with heads and 
 nail-head ornament. There are 2 
 lancets in the chancel, and a late 
 Dec. E. window ; a square aumbry 
 in N. wall. In the S. a piscina and 
 Easter sepulchre (?). The font is a 
 rude, square block. The roodloft 
 steps remain at E. end of N. arch, 
 and close by are the piscina and 
 bracket of an altar. A transeptal 
 projection has been added, N. and S. 
 The S. porch is E. Eng. 
 
 Leaving “ Stretton in the street, 
 where shrews meet” — an ancient 
 saying which belongs to this place — 
 we proceed through lanes for 1 J m. 
 to Clipsham , a scattered village, 
 situated rather prettily in a broken, 
 partly wooded country. The parish 
 is famous for the oolitic stone which 
 is quarried close on the border of 
 the county, about 1 m. from the 
 church. The stone belongs to the 
 same beds, and is of the same cha- 
 racter, as that quarried at Ketton 
 (Rte. 1). Clipsham has an excellent 
 village church, restored and reseated 
 at great cost, and in very good order. 
 It consists of W. tower, nave with 
 aisles, chancel and N. chancel aisle. 
 The tower has arches opening to the 
 aisles N. and S. The nave arcade, 
 of 3 bays^ (exclusive of the tower bay) 
 is late Norm, on the N. side, with 
 low round piers and overhanging 
 cushioned capitals. The western- 
 most arch has an enriched outer 
 moulding of rather unusual design. 
 On the S. side the arcade is E. Eng., 
 with round piers and octangular 
 caps., on which is the nail-head. The 
 arches are round and plainly cham- 
 
Rutland. 
 
 Route 4 . — Stamford to Stretton . 
 
 231 
 
 fered. The font is Norm., a round 
 bowl, with small lozenged ornaments. 
 The aisle windows S. are Dec. and 
 square- headed. In the S. wall is a 
 remarkable piscina with projecting 
 basin, and open tracery in the head 
 of the arch. There are brackets 
 with heads on either side of the E. 
 window. The windows of the N. 
 aisle, still Dec., differ from those 
 opposite and have a peculiar tracery. 
 At the E. end, an arch (enrly Dec. ?) 
 carried on brackets which terminate 
 in heads (very noticeable) opens to 
 the N. aisle of chancel. The tower 
 arches are early Dec.; and at the 
 W. end is a single trefoil-headed 
 lancet. The present chancel arch is 
 carried on a short triple shaft, with 
 the buckle ornament at the termina- 
 tions. Two broad arches divide the 
 aisles from the chancel. There are 
 small heads at the intersections and 
 at the crown of each arch. The roof 
 is modern. There is an elaborately 
 carved modern reredos (of wood), 
 having in the centre the Last Supper 
 (Leonardo’s), the Ascension and the 
 Transfiguration, on either side, and 
 beyond again the Nativity and the 
 Repose in Egypt. The exterior 
 shows a cornice with the ball-flower 
 and other ornaments, carved above 
 the aisle windows. Short, good 
 buttresses rise between. The ball- 
 flower appears again round the E. 
 window of the S. aisle. All this 
 work is early Dec. The tower and 
 spire are also Dec. The broach- 
 spire rises from the low tower with 
 a peculiar arrangement hardly to be 
 made intelligible without illustra- 
 tions. All the spire lights have 
 crosses. 
 
 At Glipsham we reach the N.E. 
 boundary of Rutland, and look across 
 toward Castle Bytham in Lincoln- 
 shire. 
 
 ROUTE 4. 
 
 STAMFORD TO STRETTON, BY ROAD 
 (TICKENCOTE, EMP1NGHAM, EXTON). 
 
 The road on which we journey by 
 the present Rte. from Stamford, 
 represents a portion of the ancient 
 Erming Street (Earminga Strset - the 
 road of the fen-men, from the Norse 
 eorme , bog-earth) which ran from 
 London to Lincoln. This portion of 
 it, at any rate, was adopted by the 
 Romans, if it be not of Roman origin. 
 Roman relics have been found on or 
 near its course ; and the Roman 
 camp of Great Casterton is still 
 conspicuous where the road, 2 m. 
 from Stamford, crosses the little 
 River Gwash (hence the place is 
 sometimes called Brig Casterton), 
 and, passing out of Lincolnshire, 
 enters the county of Rutland. 
 
 Great Casterton was certainly a 
 station of some impoitance, although 
 it cannot be identified with any 
 station of the Itineraries. The 
 camp lay toward the river, on the 
 N.E. of Casterton church. On two 
 sides the stream of the Gwash (more 
 considerable, it is likely, in early 
 days than at present) seems to have 
 formed the boundary. On the others 
 a deep trench and bank are still 
 remaining. The form is square. 
 Some Roman coins have been found 
 here, but in no great quantity. The 
 church of Great Casterton (unrestored, 
 1877) is E. Eng. throughout and 
 curious. The nave is of 2 bays only, 
 with round piers and caps., and 
 responds enriched with leafage. 
 The arches are round-headed (a 
 peculiarity in this district, where 
 the round-hea< led arch was retained 
 after the full development of E. 
 Eng. — see Clipsham and Stretton, 
 Rte. 3). There is a clerestory of 
 circular lights. At the E. end of 
 
232 
 
 Route 4 . — Great Caster ton — Tickencote. Sect. II* 
 
 the aisles is a lancet — the other 
 windows are debased. At the E. 
 end of the S. aisle are brackets on 
 either side of the lancet, and extend- 
 ing from the sill of the window is 
 a broad stone slab— the purpose of 
 which is not clear. The well de- 
 veloped chancel has 2 lancets at the 
 E. end, and a plain three-light win- 
 dow on the S. side. There is an 
 E. Eng. North porch. Under a low 
 arched recess in the wall of the S. 
 aisle is the effigy of a priest, euchar- 
 istically vested. Outside the church, 
 on the S. side of nave, is a sepulchral 
 recess, with an effigy of which the 
 head and feet only are sculptured — a 
 type not very usual. It is appa- 
 rently the figure of a priest, but is 
 much worn away. The bracket of a 
 window above displays a curious 
 example of female headdress (temp. 
 Hen. III. ?). At the E. end of the 
 church it is seen that the lancets have 
 side shafts with foliaged caps. Above, 
 in a niche, is a sculptured figure 
 which seems to represent St. Paul (the 
 dedication is to SS. Peter and Paul) 
 with a sword in one hand, and some 
 rounded object in the other. He is 
 vested as a priest, and carries the 
 maniple over the rt. arm. It is 
 perhaps questionable whether this 
 figure originally belonged to the 
 niche. The tower is E. Eng. below, 
 with a much later superstructure. 
 
 At 3 m. from Stanford a road 
 turns off 1. to Tickencote , where the 
 remarkable Norman church must on 
 no account be left unvisited by the 
 archaeologist. In spite of a restora- 
 tion (in itself a singular w<rk, con- 
 sidering the time at which it was 
 effected), and of consequent changes, 
 it remains one of the most striking 
 examples of late and enriched Nor- 
 man in this part of England. Ticken- 
 cote (“the goats’ hamlet,” tyccen , 
 A.-S. = a goat) passed, in the reign of 
 Henry VIII., to a junior branch of 
 the Wingfields of Upton, near North- 
 ampton, and is still held by this 
 family. Of its earlier owners, we 
 
 know only that it was held by the 
 Countess Judith at the time of the 
 Domesday Survey, and by a certain 
 Britius Daneys, in the reign of 
 Edw. II. The church is probably 
 of the same date as Iffiey — circ. 1160. 
 It is small, and consisted only of nave 
 and chancel, divided by a wonder- 
 fully enriched arch. The nave had 
 been rebuilt in some unknown period, 
 and had (it is said) fallen much into 
 decay, when the restoration or re- 
 building was undertaken by “ Eliza 
 Wingfield,” who (as we learn from 
 an inscription above the porch), 
 “ with that true sense of religion 
 and reverence for her Maker which 
 ever distinguished her life, repaired 
 this church in the year 1792. She 
 died July 14, 1794, aged 87 years, 
 and her remains are here deposited.” 
 This “ repair ” comprised a complete 
 rebuilding of the nave, and some 
 lesser changes which it is not easy 
 to distinguish. The Norman chancel 
 and arch were carefully preserved, 
 and the new work was designed in 
 imitation. Of this it must be said 
 that it is so good as almost to de- 
 ceive the practised archseologist. 
 The ancient designs have been care- 
 fully copied, and, now that time has 
 softened the modern masonry, the 
 whole church has assumed a har- 
 mony which is very striking. As a 
 work of the 18th cent., this rebuild- 
 ing seems almost without parallel. 
 The chancel (entirely ancient) is 
 square-ended, and is 2 half-bays in 
 length, the vaulting-ribs passing on 
 either side to a central rib or arch. 
 In the centre of the vaulting is a 
 boss with 3 heads, one human, the 
 other 2 animal. The ribs are all 
 zigzagged, with lozenges on the sof- 
 fete. There are two windows on 
 either side, and one at the E. end, 
 all deeply splayed, and each set in a 
 tall round arch with plain cushioned 
 caps., at the same level as the caps, 
 of the windows themselves. But 
 the glory of the interior is the great 
 chancel-arch, receding in 5 orders, 
 
Kutland. 
 
 233 
 
 'Route 4 . — TicJcencote — Empingham. 
 
 each of which has a different and 
 elaborate ornamentation. The pecu- 
 liar leaf-like ornament of the outer- 
 most order is repeated on the ex- 
 terior of the E. front, and copied in 
 the new work. The other designs, 
 grotesques, birds’ heads, and zigzags, 
 are more ordinary. The soffete of 
 the arch is ribbed. Like so much 
 Norman work, this very rich arch 
 has sunk together, and the shafts 
 which carry the orders are crushed 
 and bent. The foundations were 
 probably uncared for. The whole is 
 of Barnack stone, and, although it 
 displays tool - marks and perhaps 
 traces of paint, it is impossible to 
 say whether these may not have 
 been left by the “ restoring ” masons 
 of Mrs. Wingfield. In the chancel 
 is the wooden etfigy of an unknown 
 knight, temp. Edw. III. 
 
 The western part of the church, 
 including the porch, with the cham- 
 ber over it (a picturesque arrange- 
 ment), is entirely modern, and need 
 only be noticed here to call atten- 
 tion to the unusual excellence of 
 such work in 1792. The exterior of 
 the chancel deserves, of course, par- 
 ticular attention. In a lower divi- 
 sion, at the E. end and at the sides, 
 is an arcade of intersecting arches. 
 There are, in fact, 5 stages or divi- 
 sions, marked by enriched string- 
 courses, and partly recalling the flat, 
 ribbed ornamentation of such early 
 Romanesque churches as Earls Bar- 
 ton and Barnack in Northampton- 
 shire. The upper divisions contain 
 the E. window of the chancel, and 
 2 tiers of blank windows, enriched 
 with zigzag and billet mouldings. 
 Above the E. window is a longer and 
 narrower light, opening to the space 
 (in fact a room) above the vaulting ; 
 these windows are carried on bracket- 
 heads, animal and human. The 
 vestry, on the S. side of the chancel, 
 is part of Mrs. Wingfield’s work. 
 All the ancient building belongs to 
 that class of enriched Norman which 
 prevailed toward the end of the style, 
 
 and of which Iffley is one of the best 
 known examples. It was so little 
 understood by earlier antiquaries 
 that King (‘ Munimenta Antiqua ’) 
 tells us that the architecture of 
 Tickencote “ corresponds well with 
 the age of the Archbishops Theodore 
 and Honorius;” and Stukely sug- 
 gests that it was the oratory of Peada 
 of Mercia, founder of Peterborough 
 Abbey. 
 
 W. of the church is Tickencote 
 Hall (J. H. Lee Wingfield, Esq.). 
 
 [it is possible to proceed by cross- 
 roads from Tickencote to Emping- 
 ham (2J m.). The village stands 
 pleasantly in the valley of the Gwash. 
 in the midst of fine trees. The church 
 well deserves attention. It has W. 
 tower, nave, and aisles, short tran- 
 septs, and chancel. It is E.. Eng., 
 but altered in parts in the Perp. 
 period. The nave is of 4 bays, with 
 round piers and round-headed arches 
 S., and pointed arches N. Both are 
 E. Eng. (compare the round-headed 
 arches at Great Oasterton). The 
 transepts project one bay. In the 
 N. transept are Perp. windows with 
 remains of stained glass. There have 
 been 2 altars, one under the E. win- 
 dow of the transept, the other under 
 the window at the end of the aisle, 
 The piscina of each remains. The 
 S. transept has E. Eng. lancets and 
 a piscina in the E. wall, which has 
 been gracefully foiled. The windows 
 in the chancel are E. Eng. There 
 is a range of 3 sedilia, with round- 
 headed arches, and a double piscina 
 with trefoiled heading. The western 
 tower is Early Dec., but following 
 very closely on the E. Eng. of the 
 nave. The W. door is fine : its 
 pointed arch is enclosed by a larger 
 one. The shafts of the outer arch 
 are ringed, the inner has the ball- 
 flower. The tower, well buttressed, 
 is of 4 storeys. In the third is panel- 
 ling, with foiled headings; in the 
 fourth are the belfry-lights. Massive 
 pinnacles rise direct from the sides 
 
234 
 
 Boute 4 . — Exton Sail and Church . 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 of the tower. There is a short spire, 
 with crocketed ribs and good spire- 
 lights. 
 
 The manor of Empingham be- 
 longed to the family of Normanville 
 until the reign of Hen. III., when it 
 passed by marriage to Edmund de 
 Passely. The church was from a 
 very early period, and still is, at- 
 tached to Lincoln Cathedral, and is 
 the “ prebend ” of Empingham. 
 
 At Whitwell , 2 m. E. of Emping- 
 ham, is a small early Dec. church 
 which the tourist need hardly turn 
 from his road to visit. There is 
 a good double-gabled bell-turret at 
 the W. end. In the S. wall of the 
 chancel is a low side window, in the 
 quatrefoil of which a fragment of old 
 glass, with the Crucifixion, remains. 
 
 Normanton woods are seen 1. in 
 proceeding from Empingham to 
 Whitwell.] 
 
 The tourist may pass by a cross- 
 road from Whitwell to the village of 
 Exton (2 m.), or he may return to 
 Tickencote, and pass into the park 
 of Exton from the main road, about 
 m. from Stamford. In either case 
 the approach to the wooded park is 
 pleasant, after the more open and 
 comparatively bare country. This 
 part of Rutland, however, is not flat. 
 The ground is much varied, and the 
 villages, generally in the hollows, 
 are well surrounded by trees. The 
 land is rich, and shows a high con- 
 dition of agriculture. 
 
 Exton Park (Earl of Gainsborough) 
 closely adjoins the village, and the 
 church (the key of which must he 
 asked for in the village ) is in the 
 park, at no great distance from the 
 house. Exton (in Domesday, Exen- 
 tune) belonged at the time of the 
 Survey to the Countess Judith, and 
 passed with her daughter and 
 heiress, Maud, to David of Scotland, 
 Earl of Huntingdon. It afterwards 
 came to the Bruces, and at last to 
 the Haringtons, who held it for 
 nearly six centuries. They sold it 
 
 to Sir Baptist Hicks ; and with his 
 heiress it came to the Noels, the 
 head of which family is the Earl of 
 Gainsborough. The old hall of 
 Exton, close to the church, was 
 Elizabethan, and was almost de- 
 stroyed by fire in 1810. The actual 
 hall, and some other portions remain, 
 but not in habitable condition. The 
 front has an open balustrade between 
 gables, and some good transomed 
 windows. Within, there is nothing 
 of interest. The modern house , 
 which stands on lower ground some- 
 what farther to the N., is Elizabethan 
 in character, and picturesque, with 
 tourelles, and a R. C. chapel with 
 apse, projecting eastward. Much of 
 the old house was pulled down for 
 the stonework of this chapel, which 
 is important, and of some size. The 
 house contains some portraits and 
 pictures, but of no great interest. The 
 park, which is well-wooded, and 
 contains a large sheet of water, is 
 said to be 8 miles in circuit. 
 
 Exton Church , with a fine tower 
 and spire, is interesting in itself, and 
 also for the elaborate display of 
 Harington and Noel monuments. 
 It consists of W. tower, nave with 
 aisles, and chancel. The eastern 
 bays of the aisles are transeptal, and 
 are divided by arches from the 
 aisles, as at Empingham. The 
 arcade is Dec. on the S. side, and 
 somewhat earlier — perhaps it should 
 be called E. Eng. — on the N. The 
 arches on either side are lofty, and 
 the leafage on the S. side has the 
 natural character of the Dec. period. 
 The chancel was “ struck by a fire 
 ball/’ and has been rebuilt, with a 
 Dec. E. window. The rools are 
 new ; and in the nave, between the 
 line of clerestory lights, are hung 
 a long series of Noel banners and 
 achievements. The general effect is 
 not amiss; but, together with the 
 numerous monuments, the display 
 gives the church something of the 
 character of a family mausoleum. 
 The font, early Dtc., is octagonal, 
 
Kutland. 
 
 J Route 4 . — Exton Church. 
 
 235 
 
 with an arcade ornamenting the 
 side, and heads at the angles. 
 
 The monuments were re-arranged 
 after the destruction of the old 
 chancel, and are not at present in 
 their original positions. The earliest 
 is an altar-tomb of alabaster with 
 floriated cross, on the N. side of the 
 altar. The inscription runs — u Vous 
 qe par icy passez — pur lalme Nichol 
 G-reve prie— son corps gist de south 
 ceste pere — par la mort qe taunt 
 est fere — en la cynkanntisme an 
 mort luy prest —mercy luy fate Jesu 
 Crist. Amen.” There is no date, 
 but the tomb may be about 1450. 
 Under the tower is the tomb, with 
 effigies in alabaster, of John Haring- 
 ton and Alice his wife, dating early 
 in the 16th cent. Here is also a 
 graceful recumbent figure (asleep) 
 of Anne, wife of Thos. Bruce, Lord 
 Kinloss, d. 1627, aged 22. At the 
 S. end of the S. transept is the fine 
 Elizabethan monument of Kobert 
 Keylway, a lawyer, who was father 
 of Anne, Lady Harington. He lies 
 on his back, robed, and in front 
 kneel his daughter and her husband, 
 John, Lord Harington. At the side 
 is a small figure, in gown and cap, 
 of a child who died young. In the 
 N. transept is a grand and pompous 
 monument, by Grinling Gibbons , for 
 Baptist Noel, Yiscount Campden, 
 who died in 1683, aged 71. This 
 Lord Campden was eminent for his 
 loyalty to Charles I., his conjugal 
 affection to 4 wives, and his paternal 
 indulgence to 19 children. Two 
 full-length figures appear at an altar, 
 and there are many bas-reliefs of 
 virtues. The whole was raised, at a 
 cost of 1000Z., by John, third son of 
 the Yiscount, and is an excellent 
 example of the period. Opposite is 
 the monument of his fifth son James, 
 d. 1681, aged 18, “free from the 
 age's grand debaucherys.” He ap- 
 pears in wig and flowing cravat. 
 At the end of the N. aisle is a mural 
 monument, by Nollekens , for Lieut.- 
 Gen. Benett Noel, d. 1766; a figure 
 
 leaning on an urn, on which is a 
 bust of Gen. Noel. In the chancel is 
 a monument, by Nollekens , for Bap- 
 tist Noel, 4th Earl of Gainsborough; 
 and opposite, in a recess, the Jaco- 
 bean monument of Sir James Haring- 
 ton and his wife Lucy, who both died 
 in the year 1591. 
 
 The rectory of Exton was given 
 by the Bruces to the Cluniac priory 
 of St. Andrew in Northampton, to 
 which it belonged until the Disso- 
 lution. 
 
 In proceeding from Tickencote 
 along the line of ancient road (the 
 Erming Street), now known as Horqe 
 Lane, we come, at 5 m. from Stam- 
 ford, to a place called “ Bloody 
 Oaks This was the scene (March 
 13th, 1470) of the fight known as 
 that of “ Loosecoat Field ” (because 
 the fugitives flung off their coats for 
 greater speed), between Edward IY. 
 and the Lancastrians under Sir Ko- 
 bert Welles* and Sir Thomas de la 
 Launde, both of whom were after- 
 wards executed in Stamford. The 
 records of their attainder state that 
 the battle was fought in “Horn- 
 field, in Empingham.” The village 
 of Horne, which lay to the 1., has 
 utterly disappeared, church and all. 
 
 At 8 m from Stamford we reach 
 Stretton (see Kte. 3). 
 
236 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 Route 5 . — Stamford to Essendine. 
 
 ROUTE 5. 
 
 STAMFORD TO ESSENDINE (rail). 
 
 (RYHALL.) 
 
 This short line connects Stamford 
 with the Great Northern Railway 
 from London to York. The only 
 intervening station is at 
 
 3 m. Byhall, where the church is 
 interesting. The greater portion is 
 E. Eng., with a fine tower and spire 
 of the same date. The stair-turret 
 is set on at the angle, like a great 
 buttress. The belfry-lights in the 
 uppermost stage are enriched with 
 dog-tooth, as are the lights of the 
 broach-spire. The E. Eng. nave ar- 
 cade has circular piers, with lofty 
 arches. (At the point of intersection 
 of the westernmost arches, N. side, 
 is a curious grotesque — a crouching 
 figure with the arms broken off; 
 round the head is a coronet of fleur- 
 de-lys.) The windows of aisles and 
 of the clerestory are now Perp. The 
 wide chancel arch is E. Eng.; the 
 chancel windows Perp. The font is 
 E. Eng. In the chancel is a pretty 
 monument “ to the happy memory of 
 Samuel Barker, a child of admirable 
 sweetness of temper, of an erect and 
 comely body, of a most pregnant wit, 
 even beyond what could be imagined 
 at the age of 2 years and 15 days. 
 Died Oct. 30, 1G96. ,, Outside the 
 church remark the fine buttresses, 
 and a Perp. cornice with grotesques, 
 like that at Oakham. There .is a 
 rich S. porch, of which the outer 
 portal has a foliated “ bordering.” 
 Above is a parvise. This porch, 
 with the aisles and chancel, are 
 clearly rebuildings or additions of 
 the early Perp. period ; at which time 
 Oakham church (Rte. 1) was also 
 much altered. 
 
 At the W. end of the N. aisle 
 some traces were formerly pointed 
 out as having been part of the cell 
 of St. Tibba, a kinswoman of Peada 
 of Mercia, who died circa 690. The 
 “ cell ” must be consigned to the 
 same region of conjecture as the 
 “ oratory ” of Peada at Tickencote 
 (Rte. 4), and as the “stout knight 
 Harding of Ryall,” who, according 
 to the false Ingulf, led the Stamford 
 men against the Danes in 870 ; but 
 St. Tibba was especially reverenced 
 at Ryhall. She is not the same as 
 St. Ebba, the virgin-saint of North- 
 umbria ; but, according to local tra- 
 dition, lived and died in her cell at 
 Ryhall. Her relics were, it is said, 
 afterwards carried to Peterborough. 
 She was the patroness of falconers, 
 and “this Tibb (saith John Ross) 
 hath this special bountie, that if 
 your hawke were ravinishe, or had 
 soared from you, you might, by 
 offering of a hawke in wax, or some 
 other present, reclay me or recover 
 him.’’ ( Wright's ‘Rutland.’) The 
 hunter’s cry, “Tantivy,” has been 
 explained as an invocation of St. 
 Tibba— like “ tawdry ” from St. Au- 
 drey; but this is more than doubt- 
 ful. Traditions of her still linger at 
 Ryhall, where it is said that she 
 was a queen, and that she used to 
 bathe in “ Tibbal’s-hill spring.” 
 
 At 1J m. from Ryhall the station 
 of Essendine is reached. There was 
 at this place a castle, of which 
 the surrounding moat remains. The 
 place was granted to Gilbert of 
 Ghent after the Conquest, who may 
 have raised the castle. Within the 
 moat stands the small church , un- 
 interesting but for its S. door, 
 which is Norman. There is an en- 
 closing arch, with zigzag. The 
 actual portal is rudely squared, and 
 the sides and tympanum have been 
 covered with ornament. The sculp- 
 ture of the sides can hardly be dis- 
 tinguished. In the tympanum is 
 the Saviour, beneath a rainbow, with 
 adoring angels. 
 
( 237 ) 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Places printed in italics are railway stations. 
 
 abbot’s. 
 
 A 
 
 Abbot’s Mill, 47. 
 
 Abington Abbey, 182 ; mul- 
 berry-tree, ch., 183. 
 
 Abtborpe ch., 156. 
 
 Achurch, 44. 
 
 Addington, Great, ch., brass, 
 i 4 - 
 
 , Little, ch., 34. 
 
 Adston, i? 6. 
 
 Agriculture of Northampton- 
 shire, xxii. 
 
 Albano, picture by, 103. 
 
 Aldwincle, All Saints, 42 ; ch., 
 brass, 43. 
 
 St. Peter’s, ch., 43. 
 
 Alnoth, St., relics of, 1 1 o. 
 
 A 1 thorp, 157 ; history, 15 7-1 59; 
 house, 159; library, 160; pic- 
 tures and portraits, 161-165 ; 
 miniatures, 165 ; gardens, 
 165 ; park, hawking-stand, 
 166. 
 
 Alwalton, 62. 
 
 Andrew family, the, brasses 
 and tombs in Charwelton 
 ch., 142, 143. 
 
 Anguisciola, Sofonisba, pic- 
 tures by, 103, 161. 
 
 Anne of Denmark, Queen, at 
 Althorp, 158, 166. 
 
 Antiquities of Northampton- 
 shire, xviii. 
 
 of Rutland, xxviii. 
 
 Apeltree, 144. 
 
 Apethorpe, 53; pictures, ch., 
 park, 54. 
 
 Aragon, Queen Catherine of, at 
 Peterborough, 67, 77. 
 
 Arbury Banks, 147. 
 
 Hill, 1 16. 
 
 Architecture, domestic, of 
 Northamptonshire, xxi.; mi- 
 litary, xxii. 
 
 , domestic of Rutland, 
 
 xxviii. ; military, xxix. 
 
 Art Collections in Northamp- 
 tonshire, xxii. 
 
 BARTON SE AGE A YE. 
 
 Arihingwortb, ch., 182. 
 
 Ash timber, 44. 
 
 Ashby Lodge, 123. 
 
 St. Ledgers, 121 ; manor- 
 
 house, ch., brasses, 122 ; 
 plot -room, 122. 
 
 Ashley, ch., 210. 
 
 Ashton ch., monuments, 
 brasses, 3. 
 
 Ashwell Stat., ch., 222. 
 Ass'elvn, pictures by, 161. 
 
 As ton-le- Walls, ch., 144. 
 Astrop House, 140. 
 
 Well, 140. 
 
 Astwell manor house, 156. 
 Avon, Spring of the, 174. 
 
 Well, 178. 
 
 Aynho, ch., 141. 
 
 Park, 141 ; pictures, 141. 
 
 Ayston ch.-jd., 223. 
 
 B 
 
 Bacon, jun., monument by, at 
 King’s Sutton, 139. 
 
 Badby, ch., 117. 
 
 Baily, figure of the Earl of 
 Pomfret, by, at Easton Nes- 
 ton, 127. 
 
 Baker, George, historian of 
 Northamptonshire, 8. 
 
 Banbury to Northampton, 152. 
 
 Banbury Lane, 136, 156. 
 
 Barby ch., 123. 
 
 Bardwell, Thos., picture by, 
 161. 
 
 Barleythorpe, 221. 
 
 Barnack Stat., 89 ; ch., quar- 
 ries, 90. 
 
 Barn Hill, Charles I. at, 97. 
 
 Barnwell Stat., 45. 
 
 St. Andrew, castle, 45 ; 
 
 ch., 46. 
 
 Ali Saints, 46. 
 
 Baroccio, picture by, 161. 
 
 Barrow Hill, tumulus, 156; 
 legend of ash-tree, 1 56. 
 
 Bartolomeo, Fra., picture by, 
 161. 
 
 Barton Seagrave, ch., 187. 
 
 BOUGHTON. 
 
 Barton Seagrave, Hall, 187. 
 
 Bassano, pictures by, 104, 161. 
 
 Batsaddle, spring, 201. 
 
 Battledon and Thistledon, ‘ the 
 grave-yards,’ 150. 
 
 Battoni, picture by, 39. 
 
 Bayard’s green, tournament at, 
 155 * 
 
 Beacon, the, on the Dasset 
 Hills, 15 1. 
 
 Beale, Mary, portraits by, 161. 
 
 Beckett, Thos a, at Nortoamp- 
 ton, 5. 
 
 Bede-house at Lyddington, 227. 
 
 Belli, Valerio, onyx by, 103. 
 
 Bellini, picture by, 103. 
 
 Benefield, 51. 
 
 Benzoni, G. M., sculpture by, 
 
 1 19. 
 
 Berry Mount Hill, 137. 
 
 Billing Road Stat., 15. 
 
 , Great, ch., 15. 
 
 , Little, cb., 15. 
 
 Hall, 15. 
 
 Bisbrooke Hall, 225. 
 
 Bittlesden manor house, 143. 
 
 Black Grounds, Roman relics 
 at, 147. 
 
 ‘Black Watch,’ the, c-iptured 
 in Lady Wood, 40. 
 
 Blackland pence, 140. 
 
 Blakesley, ch., brass, 132. 
 
 Blatherwycke Hall, 194. 
 
 Bletchley Junction, 2. 
 
 Blisworth Junction, ch., j. 
 
 House, 3. 
 
 Bloody oaks, 235. 
 
 Blore, monument by, at Castle 
 Ashby ch.. 20. 
 
 Bloxam, John, monument to, 
 in Great Addington, 34. 
 
 Bocase tree, the, 51. 
 
 Bodington ch., 147. 
 
 Bones, human, large collection 
 in the crypt at Rothwell, 
 206. 
 
 Borough Hill, Roman remains 
 at, 1 1 3 ; tumuli, 114. 
 
 Bo 1 field, Beriah, 120. 
 
 Boughton, 189; pictures, 189; 
 cartoons, 190. 
 
238 
 
 INDEX, 
 
 BOUGHTON. 
 
 Boughton, village, 17 5. 
 Boundaries of Noithampton- 
 shire, x. 
 
 Bowden, Little, 207. 
 
 Bozeat ch., 24. 
 
 Brackley, inn, 15 3 ; history, 
 153, 154 ; ch., 154; Magda- 
 lene College, grammar 
 school, 154. 
 
 Brampton Stat., 175 ; ch., 210. 
 Brasses in Northamptonshire : 
 Aldwincle, 4?. 
 
 Ashby St. Ledger, 122. 
 Ashton, 3. 
 
 Blakesley, 132. 
 
 Canons Ashby, 134. 
 Charwelton, 142. 
 
 Chipping Warden, 145. 
 Cotterstock, 52. 
 
 Dodford, hi. 
 
 Easton Neston, 126. 
 
 Fawsley, 119. 
 
 Floore, no. 
 
 Fotheringhay, 59. 
 
 Geddington, 19 1. 
 
 Grafton Regis, 130- 
 
 Underwood, 189. 
 
 Great Addington, 34. 
 
 Green’s Norton, 13 1. 
 
 Grendon, 24. 
 
 Helpston, 87. 
 
 Heyford, no. 
 
 Higbam Ferrers, 28, 30. 
 Hinton-in-the-hedges, 153. 
 Irthlingborough, 33. 
 
 Ivinghoe, 2. 
 
 Lowick, 36. 
 
 Marholme, 87. 
 
 Norton, 120. 
 
 Rothwell, 206. 
 
 Rushton, 205. 
 
 Stamford, 94, 95. 
 
 Staverton, 115. 
 
 Sudborough, 40. 
 
 Sulgrave, 155. 
 
 Tamor, 52. 
 
 Wappenham, 156. 
 Warkworth, 138. 
 
 Woodford, 34. 
 
 Brasses in Rutland : — 
 Lyddington, 227. 
 
 Braunston, 123. 
 
 Braybrooke, ch., 206. 
 
 Bricks, Homan, at Brixworth, 
 178, 180. 
 
 Bridges’ ‘Fables’ at Cotter- 
 stock, 51. 
 
 Brigstock, ch., 51. 
 
 Brixworth, ch, 178-181. 
 Brockhall, ch., 120. 
 
 Broughton, ch., 185. 
 
 Brown, Robt., founder of the 
 “ Brownists,” 45. 
 
 Bruyn, B. de, picture by, 161. 
 Buckner, picture by, 19. 
 
 CATESBY. 
 
 Bugbrooke, ch., 106. 
 
 Bullet Hill, 148. 
 
 Bulwick, ch., 194. 
 
 Hall, 194. 
 
 Burges, Wm., restores St. 
 George’s ch., Stamford, 94. 
 
 Burghley, history, 98; park, 
 house, 99 ; pictures, 1 00-104 » 
 great staircase, hall, 104 ; 
 royal visitors, 104, 105 ; sil- 
 ver plate, gardens, 105. 
 
 Burley, ch., monuments, 229. 
 
 Burley-on-the-hill, 228. 
 
 Burnt walls, 115. 
 
 Burroughs, the Roman en- 
 campment, 174. 
 
 Burton Dassetch., 151. 
 
 Latimer, ch., 202. 
 
 Butler, Alban, birthplace, 145. 
 
 By field Stat , ch., 14 1. 
 
 reservoir, 144. 
 
 C 
 
 Caldecot, ch., 228. 
 
 Calvart, Denis, picture by, 105. 
 
 Camp, Roman, at Hunsborough, 
 13 ; at Irchester, 26 ; Lil- 
 boume, 207. 
 
 Canal, Grand Junction, 3 ; re- 
 servoir at Borough Hill, 1 14. 
 
 , Union, 120. 
 
 Canaletto, pictures by, 39, 126. 
 
 Canons Ashby, history, 133; 
 ch., brasses, 134; antiquity 
 of house, 135. 
 
 Caracci, Agos., picture by, 161. 
 
 , Anni., pictures by, 102, 
 
 161. 
 
 , Lod., picture by, 162. 
 
 Caravaggio, picture by, 103. 
 
 Carey, Dr. Wm., birthplace, 
 128. 
 
 , Lady, monument in 
 
 Stowe ch., 109. 
 
 Carlton ch., 210. 
 
 * Park, east, 210. 
 
 Carr dyke, the, 81. 
 
 Cartoons at Boughton, 190. 
 
 Casterton, Brig, 231. 
 
 — — , Great, ch., 231. 
 
 Castiglione, B., pictures by, 
 100, 103. 
 
 Castle Ashby , 16, 17 ; pictures, 
 18,19; library, 19; tapes- 
 tries, 19, 20 ; the Clephane 
 horn, 20 ; ch., 20 ; Yardley 
 Chase, Cowper’s oak, 21. 
 
 Dykes, 132. 
 
 Yard, 132. 
 
 Castor , 60 ; Roman station, 60 ; 
 ch., 60, 61 : Roman villas, 62. 
 
 Catesby, 116; priory of Bene- 
 dictine nuns, 1 16, 1 17. 
 
 COTTESBEOOKE HALL. 
 
 Catesby family, the, 12 1. 
 Catmose, vale of, 221. 
 
 Cecil monuments at Stamford, 
 95 - 
 
 Chalcombch., 138 ; priory, 138, 
 Chalybeate Springs at Aynho, 
 141 - 
 
 Champagne, Ph. de, picture by, 
 162. 
 
 Chantrey, monument by, at 
 Easton Neston, 127; Whit- 
 tlesbury, 128 ; Burley, 229. 
 Charles I., at Stamford, 92 ; 
 Barn Hill, 97; Daventry, 112 ; 
 Edgcott, 145 ; Edgehill, 148- 
 151; Holdenby, 169; Nase- 
 by, 176, 177 ; Lubenham, 209. 
 Charles II., statue of, at North- 
 ampton, 9. 
 
 Charwelton ch., brass, 142. 
 Chauncy family, the, monu- 
 ments at Edgcott, 146. 
 Cheddington Junction, 2 ; to 
 Aylesbury, 2. 
 
 Cher well house, 142. 
 
 river, bridge, 142. 
 
 Chest, old, at Brampton, 173. 
 Chesterton, Roman Camp at, 
 62. 
 
 House, 63 ; ch , 63. 
 
 Chicheley, Archbp., at Higham 
 Ferrers, 27, 28. 
 
 Chimneys, peculiar to North- 
 amptonshire, 35. 
 
 Chipping Warden, ch., brass, 
 145 ; manor house, 145. 
 Church Brampton, 173. 
 Cimabue, picture by, 103. 
 Clapton, ch., 42. 
 
 Clare, John, monument at 
 Helpston, 87. 
 
 Claude, picture by, 103. 
 Claycoton, 208. 
 
 Cleeve, Joas van, picture by, 
 162. 
 
 Clifford Hall, 16. 
 
 Clipsham, ch., 230. 
 
 Clipston, ch., 182. 
 
 Cluniac priory at Daventry, 
 112. 
 
 Coins, Roman, found at Clifford 
 Hill, 16 : Irchester, 26 ; Ape- 
 thorpe, 54 ; Castor, 62 ; King’s 
 Sutton, 140; Ramsborough, 
 140 ; Black Grounds, 147 ; 
 Brixworth, 18 r. 
 
 Cold Higham, ch., 13 1. 
 
 Colley Weston, ch., 194 ; slate 
 quarries, 194. 
 
 Copley, picture by, 19. 
 
 Corby, ch., 192. 
 
 Cosgrave ch., 130; hall, 130. 
 Cotterstock, ch., brass, 52. 
 
 Hall, 51. 
 
 Cottesbrooke Hall, 174. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 239 
 
 COTTESMORE. 
 
 Cottesmore, ch., 229 ; font, 230. 
 
 hunt, the, kennels of, 221. 
 
 Cottingham, ch., 210. 
 
 Courteenhall Hall, 3 ; ch., 3. J 
 
 Cowper’s verses for the annual 
 bill of mortality at North- : 
 ampton, 10; his oak in 
 Yardley Chase, 21. 
 
 Cranach, Lucas, picture by, 
 102. 
 
 Cranford, 21 1. 
 
 Hall, 211. 
 
 Cransley, ch., 18?. 
 
 Creation, ch., 174. 
 
 Creed, Mrs., her inscriptions in 
 Tichmarsh ch., 41 ; at Barn- 
 well All Saints, 45. 
 
 Cressy, Sir John, alabaster al- 
 tar-tomb at Dodford, hi. 
 
 Crewe, Lord, Bp. of Durham, 
 birthplace and burial, 152; 
 monument at Steane, 153. 
 
 Crick Stat., 120; tunnel, 123. 
 
 , ch., 172. 
 
 Cromwell at Peterborough, 7 3 ; 
 at Burghley, 105 ; his troop- 
 ers, 77, 79. 
 
 Cross, Queen Eleanor’s, at 
 Northampton, 12, 1 3 ; Stam- 
 ford, 92; Geddington, 190, 
 191. 
 
 Crosse, Lewis, bust by, 10 r. 
 
 Croughton ch., 141. 
 
 Crowland, 82; triangular 
 bridge, history, 83 ; ch., 84 ; 
 tower, 85; Anchor church 
 house, 86. 
 
 Culwortb, ch., 136. 
 
 Gang, the, 156. 
 
 Cust, Sir R. and Lady, monu- 
 ment at Stamford, 95. 
 
 Cuyp, A., picture by, 162. 
 
 D 
 
 Dihl, M., picture by, 104. 
 
 Dallington, ch„ 14. 
 
 Hall, 14. 
 
 Dance, Sir N., picture by, 102. 
 
 Danes moor, 146. 
 
 Dasset Hills beacon, the, 15 1 ; 
 ch., 151. 
 
 Daventry, inns, 112; battle, 
 1 12; Borough Hill, Roman 
 remains, 113 ; tumuli, 114. 
 
 Deacon, Thomas, monument in 
 Peterborough, 77. 
 
 Deane, ch., 192; Brudenel 
 chapel, 19 3. 
 
 — - Park, 192 ; house, 195. 
 
 Delapre Abbey, 13. 
 
 Denford ch., 3 3 . 
 
 Desborough Stat., ch., 206. 
 
 ERMINE STREET. 
 
 Digby family, monuments at 
 Stoke Dry, 226. 
 
 , Sir Everard, his share in 
 
 Gunpowder Plot, 226. 
 
 Dingley, ch., 210. 
 
 Hall, 210. 
 
 Bitchford Bridge, 27. 
 
 Dobson, pictures by, 39, 100, 
 102. 
 
 Dod, John, vicar of Fawsley, 
 119. 
 
 Dodford, ch., brasses, nr. 
 
 Dodington, ch., 27. 
 
 Dolce, Carlo, pictures by, 103, 
 162. 
 
 Domenichino, picture by, 162. 
 
 Dormundceatre, 61. 
 
 Drayton, history, 37; Horace 
 Walpole at, 38 ; library, 
 pictures, 39; gardens, 39. 
 
 Drayton Beauchamp, 2. 
 
 Driden, John, monument to, 
 at Chesterton, 63. 
 
 Dry den, John, at Tichmarsh, 
 41 ; Cotterstock, 51 ; Ches- 
 terton, 63; Rushton Hall, 
 203 ; birthplace, 42. 
 
 family, history of, 1 34. 
 
 Duddington, ch., 194. 
 
 Diirer, Albert, picture ascribed 
 to, 101. 
 
 Durobrivse, 61 ; Roman re- 
 mains, pottery, 62. 
 
 Duston, Roman remains at, 14. 
 
 E 
 
 Farls Barton, ch., 16, 17. 
 
 Earp, monument by, at Mid- 
 dleton Cheney, 138. 
 
 Earthworks, British, at East 
 Farndon, 182. 
 
 East End Iron-works, 24, 25. 
 
 Easton M audit, ch., 23; the 
 Yelverton chapel, 23. 
 
 Easton Neston Park, 125; 
 history, 125, 126; Pomfret 
 Marbles, pictures, 126 ; ch., 
 brasses, 126; monuments, 
 127. 
 
 Ed gcott House, 145; ch., 146. 
 
 Edgehill, battle of, 148-151. 
 
 Edith Weston, ch., 217. 
 
 Edward 111 ., at Rockingham, 
 197. 
 
 TV., at Stamford, 92 ; and 
 
 Elizabeth Woodville at the 
 Queen’s Oak, 128 ; marriage, 
 129. 
 
 Egleton ch., 221. 
 
 Elton Stat., 55. 
 
 Empingham, ch., 23 3 - 
 
 Ermine Street, 61, 89, 91, 231, 
 
 235. 
 
 FREESTONE. 
 
 Fssendine, ch., 236. 
 
 Essex, Earl of, and his troops 
 at Edgehill, 150-15 2; at 
 Brackley, 154. 
 
 Etton, ch., 88. 
 
 Evelyn describes Althorp, 160, 
 165. 
 
 Ever don ch., 107. 
 
 Extent and general character of 
 Northamptonshire, ix. ; of 
 Rutland, xxv. 
 
 Exton, ch., 234; monuments, 
 
 235. 
 
 park, 234. 
 
 Eyck, J. van, picture by, 102. 
 Eydon, ch., 144. 
 
 Hall, 144. 
 
 Eye, river, junction with the 
 Welland, 228. 
 
 Eye Stat., 81. 
 
 F 
 
 Fairfax at Naseby, 176. 
 
 Fane, Julian, lines on Ape- 
 thorpe, 53. 
 
 Farndon Hall, earthworks, 207. 
 
 , East, Hall, 182. 
 
 Farthingho Stat., ch., 152. 
 
 Farthings tone, 132. 
 
 Fawsley Park, 117 ; house, 
 1 18; secret chamber, 118; 
 pictures, ch., monuments, 
 brasses, 119. 
 
 Faxton, 181 ; mural monument 
 to Judge Nichols, 181. 
 
 Fenny Compton, 147. 
 
 Stratford, 2. 
 
 Fermor family, monuments at 
 Easton Neston, 126, 127. 
 
 Finedon, ch., 201 ; parvise 
 chamber, organ, 202. 
 
 Hall, 202. 
 
 Fineshade Abbey, 194. 
 
 Fiore, Maria da, picture by, 
 101. 
 
 Fitzwilliams, monuments at 
 Marholme, 87, 101. 
 
 Flaxman, monument by, at 
 Grafton Hegis, 130. 
 
 Floore,ch., brasses, no; house, 
 no. 
 
 Floris, picture by, T03. 
 
 Fortescue, Sir Faithful, at 
 Edgehill. 149, 150. 
 
 Fossils fouud at Colley Weston, 
 195 . 
 
 Fotheringhay, 5? ; history, 56; 
 Castle, 57 ; Queen Mary of 
 Scotland, 57 ; ch., 58 ; monu- 
 ments, brasses, 59- 
 
 Freestone quarries at Weldon, 
 192. 
 
240 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 FULLER. 
 
 Fuller, Thomas, birthplace, 43 ; 
 
 baptism, 44. 
 
 Furtho, ch., 130. 
 
 G 
 
 Gainsborough, picture by, 162. 
 Garrard, M., pictures by, 102, 
 162. 
 
 Garrick, David, mulberry tree 
 at A bington, planted by, 183. 
 Gayton, ch., 106. 
 
 Geddington, 190; ch. , brass, 
 Eleanor Cross, 191. 
 
 Geese, wild, miracle of, 107. 
 Geology of Northamptonshire, 
 x ; of Rutland, xxvi. 
 
 Gerard Dow, picture by, 19. 
 Gibbons, Grinling, carvings by, 
 at Burghley, 100, 101, 103; 
 monument by, at Exton, 
 235 . 
 
 Glaiston, ch., 225. 
 
 Glass, stained : — 
 
 Barnack, 90. 
 
 Benefield, 51. 
 
 Burley, 229. 
 
 Geddington, 190. 
 
 Lamport, 18 r. 
 
 Lowick, 36. 
 
 Marholme, 86. 
 
 Middleton Cheney, 137. 
 Peakirk, 82. 
 
 Peterborough, 72, 76. 
 Rockingham, 199. 
 
 Rushden, 31. 
 
 Bush ton, 205. 
 
 Stamford, 96. 
 
 Stanford, 208. 
 
 Thrapston, 34. 
 
 Tichmarsh, 41. 
 
 Uffington, 89. 
 
 Welford, 178. 
 
 Glendon Hall, 195 ; pictures, 
 I9?* 
 
 Glinton, ch., 89. 
 
 Grafton Regis, 128 ; Edward 
 IWs marriage, 129; ch., 
 brass, 130. 
 
 • , Underwood, ch., brass, 
 
 188. 
 
 Great Brington ch., 166; Spen- 
 cer monuments, 166, 167. 
 Green’s Norton, 130; family, 
 ch., brasses, 1? 1. 
 
 Grt-etham, ch., 230. 
 
 Grendon, ch., brasses, 24. 
 
 Hall, 24. 
 
 Gretton, 194; ch., 210. 
 
 Gret worth, 155. 
 
 Grey, Richard Lord, of Wilton, 
 tomb of, 2. 
 
 Guercino, pictures by, 103, 
 162. 
 
 HIGHAM FERRERS. 
 
 Guido, picture by, 103. 
 Guilsborough, grammar school, 
 174. 
 
 Grange, 174. 
 
 Hall, 174. 
 
 Gunpowder Plot, i2i. 
 
 St. Guthlac at Crowland, 83, 
 84. 
 
 Gwash, river, 231 ; valley, 233. 
 
 H 
 
 Hacket, William, 48. 
 
 Haddon, East, ch., 17 1. 
 
 , West, ch., 172. 
 
 Hambleton ch., 221. 
 
 Hannington, ch., 184. 
 
 Hardings tone, 13. 
 
 Hargrave ch., 214. 
 
 Harington, James, author of 
 the ‘ Oceana,’ birthplace, 13. 
 
 , Sir John, and his wife, 
 
 monument at Ridlington, 
 223. 
 
 Harleston, 157; Hall, 157; ch., 
 157 - 
 
 Harper’s Brook, 35, 51. 
 
 Harrington, ch., 182. 
 
 Harringworth, 210. 
 
 Harrowden, Great, ch., 201. 
 
 , Little, ch., 2or. 
 
 Hartshorne, A., church re- 
 stored by, 142. 
 
 Hartwell, ch., 2. 
 
 Harvey, tuior to the Princes 
 Charles and James, at Edge- 
 hill, 150. 
 
 Haselboech, ch., 182. 
 
 Hall, 182. 
 
 Haiton, Sir Christopher, bis 
 two houses at Holdenby and 
 Kirby, 168. 
 
 Heere, Lucas de, pictures by, 
 39,104,162. 
 
 Helledon, 117. 
 
 Helmdon, chimney-piece in 
 rectory, 155. 
 
 Helpston, ch., brass, 87. 
 
 Henry I., at Northampton, 5. 
 
 II., council held at Ged- 
 dington, 19 1. 
 
 III., at Northampton, 5. 
 
 VIII., at Grafton Regis, 
 
 129. 
 
 Herteshull, Sir John, tomb of, 
 at A>hton, 3. 
 
 Hervey, James, burial-place, 4. 
 
 Higham Bridge, 27. 
 
 Mill, 27. 
 
 Higham Ferrers Stat, 27; 
 history, 27 ; castle, ch., 
 brasses, 28 ; tower and spire, 
 29; school house, 30. 
 
 JAMES. 
 
 Hinton-on-the-hedges, ch.. 
 brass, 153. 
 
 History of Northamptonshire 
 xiv. 
 
 Rutland, xxvi. 
 
 Hogarth, portraits by, 123, 141. 
 
 Holbein, pictures by, 39, 102, 
 162, 195. 
 
 Holcot, ch„ 184. 
 
 Holdenby, called Holmby, 168. 
 
 House, 168 ; Charles I. 
 
 at, 169 ; the ‘ King’s Walk,’ 
 169; described by Lord 
 Burghley and Sir T. Heneage, 
 170; ch., 171. 
 
 Ho Howell, 174. 
 
 Hondius, Abraham, picture by, 
 126. 
 
 Hooker, R., at Drayton Beau- 
 champ, 2. 
 
 Horestone Meadows, Roman 
 remains at, no. 
 
 Horseshoes, at Oakham, 218, 
 219. 
 
 Hotels of Northamptonshire, 
 xxiii. 
 
 of Rutland, xxix. 
 
 Holthorpe House, 209. 
 
 Houghton, Great, 16. 
 
 , Little, i<?- 
 
 Hudson, Dr. M., at Woodcroft, 
 
 88 . 
 
 , Jeffry, the dwarf, 220. 
 
 Hunsborough Camp, 13. 
 
 Huntingdon, Countess of, birth- 
 place, 156. 
 
 I 
 
 Insurance life calculations. 10. 
 
 Irchester, 26; Roman Camp, 
 ch., 26. 
 
 Irchester Road Stat, 24, Iron- 
 works, 24. 
 
 Irthlingborough ch., 32 ; 
 brasi^es, 33. 
 
 Iron-works, 24, 25 ; ch., 27. 
 
 Isannavaria, supposed site of, 
 115. 
 
 Ise, river, 187, 189. 
 
 Isham, ch., 202. 
 
 Islip, ch., 35. 
 
 Ivinghoe, ch., brasses, 2. 
 
 J 
 
 Jackson, Cyril and W r illiam, 
 birthplace, 98. 
 
 James I., at Apethorpe, 53 ; 
 Burghley, 105; Easton Nes- 
 ton, 126; Holdenby, 169. 
 
 , Canon, memorial to, at 
 
 | Sibbertoft, 178. 
 
INDEX, 
 
 241 
 
 JANET. 
 
 Janet, Francois, picture by, 162. 
 Janssen, pictures by, 19, 54, 
 102, 163. 
 
 John, King, at Northampton, 
 5 ; Stamford, 92. 
 
 Jones, Sir Samuel, monument 
 at Courteenhall, 3. 
 
 — — of Nay land, birthplace, 37. 
 Joyce, Cornet, takes Charles I. 
 prisoner at Holdenby, 170. 
 
 K 
 
 Kauffman, Angelica, picture 
 by, 163. 
 
 Kelmarsk , ch., 182. 
 
 Hall, 182. 
 
 Kettering , inn, ch., 186. 
 
 to Stamford, 188. 
 
 to Kockingham by road, 
 
 195. 
 
 Ketton, ch.,215 ; stone quarries, 
 216. 
 
 Keynes, Sir Wm,, monument 
 at Dodford, hi. 
 
 Kilsby ch., 113. 
 
 Kineton Stat., 147. 
 
 King-street road, 89. 
 
 King’s Sutton, ch., 139. 
 
 Manor House, 139. 
 
 Kingscliffe, 55. 
 
 Kingsthorpe, 14. 
 
 Kirby House, 19 3. 
 
 Kislingbury, ch., 14. 
 
 Kneller, Sir G., pictures by, 
 39, 100, 126, 163, 189. 
 Kniglitley family, monuments 
 at Fawsley, 119. 
 
 Knights Hospitallers, precep- 
 tory of, 210. 
 
 Kyneburg, St., 61. 
 
 L 
 
 Lady Wood, the, scene of the 
 capture of the ‘ Black Watch,’ 
 40. 
 
 Laguerre, picture by, 101. 
 
 Lambert, at Daventry, 113. 
 
 , Daniel, death, 98. 
 
 Lamport, ch., 181. 
 
 Hall, 181. 
 
 Langham, ch., 221. 
 
 Latham, N icholas, coloured 
 bust of, at Barnwell St. 
 Andrew, 46. 
 
 Law, birthplace, 55. 
 
 Lawrence, Sir Thos., pictures 
 by, 54, 101, 141. 
 
 Laxton Hall, 194 ; ch., 194. 
 
 Leafield, orLytield forest, 225. 
 
 Learn, river, source of, 117. 
 
 Leighton Junction , 2. 
 
 [ Northants , &c.~\ 
 
 MIDDLETON CHENEY. 
 
 Leighton Buzzard, 2. 
 
 Lely, Sir Peter, pictures by 
 39, 100, 103, 163, 190. 
 
 St. Leonard’s Priory, 96. 
 
 Lichborough, ch., 131. 
 
 House, 132. 
 
 Lilbourne Stat., ch., 207. 
 
 Lilford Park, 45 ; village, ch., 45. 
 
 Lindsey, Earl of, at Edgehill, 
 143; d^ath. 150. 
 
 Lolham Bridges, 89. 
 
 London to Northampton, via 
 Blisworth, 1. 
 
 Long Buck by, ch., 171. 
 
 Lou, Sir Philip le, of ‘ Esshe,’ 
 wooden effigy at Ash \ on, 3. 
 
 Loutherbourg, picture by, 126. 
 
 Lowe, Sir Hudson, birthplace, 
 98. 
 
 Lowick, ch., 35 ; monuments, 
 brasses, 36; oak, 37. 
 
 Lubenham Stat., 20 j. 
 
 Luffenham Stat., 216. 
 
 , North and South, 216. 
 
 Lyddington, 227 ; ch., brasses, 
 Bede-house, 227. 
 
 Lye, Edward, memorial for, at 
 Yardley Hastings Ch., 22. 
 
 Lyndon, ch., 217. 
 
 Lyveden buildings, the, 49, 50. 
 
 M 
 
 Maidford ch.. 136. 
 
 Maid well Hall, 1 8 r, 
 
 Manton Stat., ch., 217. 
 
 to Rockingham, 222. " 
 
 Manufactures of Northampton- 
 shire, xxiii. 
 
 Marholme, ch., 86; brasses, 87. 
 
 Market Harborough to Stam- 
 ford, 207. 
 
 Marochetti, monument by, at 
 Castle Ashby Church, 20. 
 
 Marriott, Robt., altar-tomb and 
 brasses at Ashton, 3. 
 
 Marston ch., 155 ; manor house, 
 155 . 
 
 Trussell, ch., 209. 
 
 Mars worth, 2. 
 
 Martin Marprelate tracts, 118. 
 
 Martinsthorpe, 217. 
 
 Mary Queen of Scots, at Fo- 
 theringhay, 57 ; her trial and 
 execution, 58 ; monument at 
 Peterborough, 75. 
 
 Massini, C., picture by, 102. 
 
 Maxey, ch., 89. 
 
 Mears Ashby, ch., 184. 
 
 Medeshamstede, monastery, 65. 
 
 Melbourne Bridge, 210. 
 
 Melton Mowbray Stat., 222. 
 
 Mentmore Towers, 2. 
 
 Middleton Cheney, ch., 137. 
 
 NORTHAMPTON. 
 
 Mignaud, picture by, 163. 
 
 Mildmay, Sir W., founder of 
 Emmanuel College, Cam- 
 bridge, 53. 
 
 , Lady Grace, 54. 
 
 Milton Park, 81 . 
 
 Monnot, monument by, at 
 Stamford, 95. 
 
 Montagu latnily, monuments 
 in Warkton ch., 188; hos- 
 pital, 189. 
 
 Morcott, ch., 225. 
 
 More, Sir A., pictures by, 39, 
 163. 
 
 Morhay Lawn, 51, 54; oaks, 
 55 - 
 
 Morton Pirikene'i Stat., 132. 
 
 manor-house, ch., 133. 
 
 Moulton, 183. 
 
 Murillo, pictures by, 14 1. 163. 
 
 My tens, picture by, 39. 
 
 N 
 
 Nadbury, a British camp, 15 1. 
 Naseby, 174; battle, 175-177. 
 
 ch., 177. 
 
 Woolleys, 177. 
 
 Nen, river, 4, 1 5, 35, 42 ; valley, 
 14; remains of enormous 
 mammalia, 15; source of, 
 115, 178. 
 
 Nether Heyford, ch., brasses, 
 110. 
 
 Newbottle, ch., 140. 
 
 Newuham, ch., hi. 
 Newton-m-the-Willows, 191. 
 Nollekins, painting by, 104 ; 
 monuments by, at Exton, 
 235 . 
 
 Normanton Park, 217. 
 Northampton, railway stations, 
 inns, 4 ; history, 4, 5 ; par- 
 liaments, 5 ; burgh, 6 ; shoe- 
 makers, sireets, square, 6 ; 
 fire, Town Hall, museum, 7 ; 
 churches, 7 ; St. John’s hos- 
 pital, 10; castle, 10; R. 
 Cath. Cathedral, n ; Abbey 
 of St. James, 11 ; College 
 Street, convent, public build- 
 ings, 1 1 ; Queen Eleanor’s 
 cross, 12 ; excursions, 12. 
 
 church s, St. Peter’s, 7; 
 
 St. Sepulchre’s, 9 ; All Saints 
 9 ; St. Giles’, 10. 
 
 to Kettering, 182. 
 
 to Market Harborough, 
 
 173 - 
 
 to Peterborough, 14. 
 
 to Rugby, by rail, 105. 
 
 , by road, 157. 
 
 to Stratlord-on-Avon, 123. 
 
 M 
 
242 
 
 INDEX 
 
 NORTHAMPTONSHIRE. 
 
 Northamptonshire, extent and 
 general character of, ix. ; 
 geology, x.; history, xiv. ; 
 antiquities, xviii. ; ci lurches, 
 xx.; architecture, xxi. ; art 
 collections, xxii. ; resources 
 and manufactures, xxii. ; 
 traveller’s view, hotels, 
 xxiii. 
 
 Northborough ch , 88 ; manor- 
 house, 88. 
 
 Norton, old home, 120; ch., 
 brass, 120. 
 
 0 
 
 Oakham Stat., inns, ch., 217 ; 
 castle, 218; hall, horseshoes, 
 219; Flore's House, 220; 
 grammar school, hospital of 
 St. John, 220; Jeffry Hud- 
 son, 220. 
 
 to Clipsham by road, 228. 
 
 Oakley Hall, 195. 
 
 , Great, ch., 195. 
 
 , Little, ch., 192. 
 
 Opie, portrait by, 144. 
 
 Orlay, B. van, picture by, 163. 
 
 Orlingbury, ch , ,oi. 
 
 Orton, ch., 202. 
 
 Ostade, picture by, 19. 
 
 Ostor Hill tumulus, 172. 
 
 Oundle Stat., inn, Roman 
 relics, 47 ; ch., Laxton’s 
 Grammar School, 48. 
 
 Ouse, river, 2. 
 
 , well, 152. 
 
 Overstone, ch., 183. 
 
 , park, 183. 
 
 Overton , 63. 
 
 , Longueville, ch., 63. 
 
 , Waterville, ch., 64. 
 
 Oxenden Magna ch., 182, 206. 
 
 P 
 
 Pack-horse stone, near Aston- 
 le- Wails, 145. 
 
 Palma Vecchio, picture by, 103. 
 
 Parliaments at N orthampton, 5. 
 
 Passenham, 130. 
 
 Passeri, picture by, 103. 
 
 Paston, parish of, 86. 
 
 Pattishall, 132. 
 
 Paulerspury, ch., 128. 
 
 Peakirlc Stat., 81 ; ch., hermi- 
 tage, 82. 
 
 Peck, Francis, the antiquary, 
 birthplace, 99. 
 
 Peg Meryll, the game of, 214. 
 
 Perceval, Spencer, statue of, by 
 Chantrey, 7. 
 
 PRESTON CAPES. 
 
 Percy, Dr., editor of the ‘ Rel- 
 iques of Ancient Poetry,’ his 
 vicarage, 23. 
 
 Peterborough , inns, 64 ; his- 
 tory, 64-66 ; town, western 
 gateway, 67 ; Cathedral, 67- 
 77 ; church-yard, 78 ; monas- 
 tic buildings and refectory, 
 archdeacon’s house, 79; ab- 
 bot’s gateway, “ Toot Hill,” 
 80; churches, 80; St. Peter s 
 Training College, the Carr 
 Dyke, 81; excursions, 81. 
 
 Cathedral : — western 
 
 porch, 68 ; W. transept, 69 ; 
 nave, clerestory, 70 ; abbot’s 
 door, 71 ; old Scarlett, central 
 tower, lantern, 71; eastern 
 aisles, 72; N. transept, 72; 
 S. transept, 73 ; choir, organ 
 screen, 7;; apse, 74; south 
 choir aisle, 74 ; monument 
 to Mary Queen of Scots, 7 5 ; 
 new buildings, 75 ; ancient 
 monument, 76; north choir 
 aisle, 77 ; grave of Catherine 
 of Aragon, 77. 
 
 Peterborough to Stamford 
 (Burghley), 86. 
 
 “ Phantom fight ” at Edgehill, 
 150. 
 
 Pickering family, the, monu- 
 ments at Aldwincle, 43. 
 
 Pictures, collections of : — 
 Althorp, 161-165 ; 
 
 Aynho Park, 141 ; 
 
 Burghley, 100; 
 
 Castle Ashby, 18, 19; 
 Drayton, 39. 1 
 
 Pilton, 44; ch.. 217. 
 
 Pindar, Sir Paul, birthplace, 
 26. 
 
 Piombo, Seb. del, picture by, 
 163. 
 
 Pipewell Abbey, 195. 
 
 Plumpton, 133. 
 
 Poelemburg, Corn., picture by, 
 163. 
 
 Polebrook ch., 46. 
 
 Pomfret Marbles, the, 126. 
 
 Poole, Rev. G. Ayliffe, restores 
 the ch. at Welford, 178. 
 
 Pordenone, picture by, 103. 
 
 Portway, the, 141, 144. 
 
 Potterspury, ch., 130. 
 
 Pottery, Roman and British, 
 14, 130; of Durobrivae, 62, 
 63. 
 
 Pourbus, the younger, picture 
 by, 163. 
 
 Poussin, N., picture by, 103. 
 
 Powys, Sir Thos., monument 
 to, in Achurch, 44. 
 
 Preston, ch., 223. 
 
 Capes, ch., 143. 
 
 ROUND HOUSE. 
 
 Prior, Matt., at Burghley, 105. 
 
 Pyel, John, founds the colle- 
 giate church at Irthling- 
 borough, 32. 
 
 Pytchley, 185; hunts, club- 
 house, 185 ; primitive ceme- 
 tery discovered, 186; ch., 
 ring of bells, 186. 
 
 hunt kennels, 181 ; gate- 
 way at Abington, 183. 
 
 Q 
 
 Queen’s Oak, the, 128. 
 
 R 
 
 Radston, 155. 
 
 Radway, Charles I. at, 149. 
 
 Raffaelle, picture by, 164 ; car- 
 toons, 190. 
 
 Rains borough Camp, 140. 
 
 Randolph, Thos., birthplace, 
 112. 
 
 JRauvds Stat., ch., 21 1. 
 
 Ravensthorpe, 172. 
 
 Rembrandt, pictures by, 101, 
 102, 103, 162. 
 
 Resources of Northampton- 
 shire, xxii. 
 
 of Rutland, xxix. 
 
 Reynolds, Sir J., pictures by, 
 51, 54, 119, 146, 164, 193. 
 
 Richardson, the novelist, at 
 Canons Ashby, 136. 
 
 Ridlington ch., 223. 
 
 Ring stead, ch., 3?. 
 
 Ro'ade Stat., 2 ; ch., 3. 
 
 Robin of Redesdale on Edg- 
 cott Hill, 146. 
 
 Rockingham Stat , hist ry, 
 196; Castle, 196; entrance 
 gateway, 197 ; manor, 198 ; 
 pictures, 198, 19 1 ; park, ch., 
 199 ; monuments, 200 ; forest 
 of, 200. 
 
 Roman bricks used at Brix- 
 wortb, 179, 180. 
 
 relics, at Duston, 14 ; 
 
 Woodford, 34 ; Oundle, 47 ; 
 Black Grounds, 147 ; Sea- 
 bridge Clo e, 152. 
 
 remains, at Irchester, 26; 
 
 i Castor, 60-62 ; Daventry, 
 
 I 1 13, 1 14; Black Grounds, 
 
 147 ; Guilsborough, 174. 
 
 I Romney, pictures by, 19, 39, 
 102, 164. 
 
 ^ Roth we II, 205; market-house, 
 ch., brass, crypt, 206. 
 
 Round House, the, at Edge- 
 hill, 1 5 1. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 243, 
 
 ROWE. 
 
 Rowe, Lady, her gift of Bible 
 and Prayer-book at Stanford, 
 208. 
 
 Rubens, picture by, 164. 
 
 Rugby to Market Harborough, 
 207. 
 
 Rumbald, St., of Sutton, 140. 
 
 Rupert, Prince, at Towcesier, 
 124 ; Edgehill, 148 ; Naseby, 
 175 . 
 
 Rupert’s Headland, 149. 
 
 Rushden ch., 30; spire, 31; 
 the Miochar Arch,’ 31. 
 
 — Hall, 3 2. 
 
 Rushton, 202 ; Triangular 
 Lodge, 202, 204, 205. 
 
 ch., brass, 205 ; monu- 
 ment of Sir Thos. Tresham, 
 205. 
 
 Hall, 20?. 
 
 Rutland, extent and general 
 character, xxv. ; geology, 
 xxvi. ; history, xxvi.; an- 
 tiquities, xxviii. ; resources, 
 traveller’s view, xxix. 
 
 Ruysdael, picture by, 101. 
 
 Ryhall, ch., 236. 
 
 Rysbrach, bust by, 146. 
 
 s 
 
 Sacharissa, Waller’s, atAlthorp, 
 158, 160. 
 
 Silcey forest, 2. 
 
 Sarto, And. del, picture by, 
 10?. 
 
 Saxby Stat., 222. 
 
 Scaldwell, ch., 181. 
 
 Scarlett, old, portrait and epi- 
 taph, 71. 
 
 Scott, Sir G. C., churches re- 
 stored by, 7, 9, 48, 137, 217. 
 
 Seabridge Close, Roman re- 
 mains, 152. 
 
 Seaton , ch., 225. 
 
 , Rev. J'h., birthplace, 98. 
 
 Sempringharn Hall, 92, 97. 
 
 Senlis, Simon of, built North- 
 ampton castle, 4 ; Fothering- 
 hay, 56. 
 
 Shakerley, Marmion, the dra- 
 matist, birthplace 141. 
 
 Shee, SirM. A., picture by, 102. 
 
 Shoemakers at Northampton, 
 6 . 
 
 Shooter’s Hill, Brito-Roman 
 burial-place, 34. 
 
 Sibbertoft vicarage, 178. 
 
 Sibson Stat., 60. 
 
 Skeleton Tours, xxix. 
 
 Slab with inscription found 
 near Irchester, 26. 
 
 Slapb-ii, ch., 156. 
 
 Slate quarries at Colley Wes- 
 
 SUNRISING HOUSE, 
 ton, 194 ; fossils found in, 
 
 195. 
 
 Smith, Dr. Wm., the geologist, 
 tablet to, in St. Peter’s ch.,' 
 Northampton, 8. 
 
 , John, the engraver, birth- 
 place, m3. 
 
 Southam, Charles I. at, 148. 
 
 Spencer family, history of, 158 ; 
 monuments at Great Bring- 
 ton, 166. 
 
 Sponne, Archd., monument at 
 Towcester, 125. 
 
 Spratton stat., ch., village, 173. 
 
 Grange, 174. 
 
 Hall, 174. 
 
 Stamford, inns, history, 91 ; 
 royal visits, university re- 
 putation, 92 ; churches, 93- 
 95 ; brasses, 94, 95 ; hospi- 
 ' tals, grammar school, St. 
 Leonard’s Priory, 96 ; Sem- 
 pringham Hall, gateway of 
 Brasenose College, 97 ; walls, 
 town hall, Norman castle, 
 97 ; bridge, Stamford Mer- 
 cury, distinguished persons, 
 98. 
 
 — — to Melton Mowbray, 215. 
 
 to Stretton, road, 231. 
 
 to Essendine, 236. 
 
 Stanford ch., 208 ; monuments, 
 209. 
 
 Stanion, 192. 
 
 Stanwick, 32; ch., 213. 
 
 Stars and stripes on tomb at 
 Sulgrave, 156. 
 
 Staverton ch., brass, 115. 
 
 Steane, 152; ch., monuments 
 of the Crewe family, 153. 
 
 Stoke Albany ch., 210. 
 
 House, 210. 
 
 Bruern, ch., 2 ; canal, 3. 
 
 Park, 2. 
 
 Dry, ch., Digby monu- 
 ments, 226, 
 
 Stone, Nicholas, monument by, 
 109. 
 
 Stony Stratford, 2. 
 
 S'othard, paintings at Burgh- 
 ley, 104. 
 
 S f o we-nine-churches, 107 ; his- 
 tory, ch., ic8; monuments, 
 109. 
 
 Stretton, ch , 230. 
 
 Strixton ch., 27. 
 
 Sudborough, 39; ch., brass, 
 money-holes, 40. 
 
 Sul by Abbey, 178. 
 
 Hall, 178. 
 
 hedges, the, at Naseby, 
 
 177. 
 
 Sulgrave, ch., brass, 155. 
 
 Sunrising house, the, at Edge- 
 hill, 148, 151. 
 
 UPTON HALL. 
 
 Sutton, ch., 60. 
 
 Basset, ch., 210. 
 
 Syresham, 155. 
 
 Sywell ch., 184. 
 
 T 
 
 Tapestries at Castle Ashby, 19, 
 20. 
 
 Tansor, ch., brass, 52. 
 
 Tenerani, monument by, at 
 Castle Ashby, ch., 20 . 
 
 Teniers, D., picture by, 164. 
 
 Thedding worth, ch., 209. 
 
 Thenford, ch., 152; manor 
 house, Roman remains, 152. 
 
 Thornhill, Sir J., painted stair- 
 case by, 126. 
 
 Thorpe Stat., 42. 
 
 Mandeville, ch., 137. 
 
 Waterville, remains of 
 
 castle, 42. 
 
 Tkrapston, 34. 
 
 to Kettering, 21 1. 
 
 to Kimbolton, 21 1. 
 
 Tibba, St., 236. 
 
 Tichmarsh, Dryden at, 41 ; 
 cedar of Lebanoh, 42. 
 
 Tickencote, ch., 232. 
 
 - — - Hall, 233. 
 
 Tinwell, ch., 215. 
 
 Titian, picture by, 104. 
 
 Tixover, 194. 
 
 Tours, skeleton, xxix. 
 
 Towcester Stat., 123; inns, his- 
 tory, 124; ch., 125. 
 
 Towe, river, 124. 
 
 Trailli, Sir Wal er, wooden 
 effigies of him, and his wife 
 at Woodford, 34- 
 
 Traveller’s view of Northamp- 
 ton, xxiii. 
 
 of Rutland, xxix. 
 
 Tresham, Sir Thos., his ‘new 
 build,’ 49 ; monument at 
 Rush 1 on, 205. 
 
 Triangular Lodge, the, at Rush- 
 ton, 204. 
 
 Tring Stat., 1. 
 
 Tumuli, at Daventry, 114; 
 King’s Sutton, 140. 
 
 Tunnel, Blisworth, 3. 
 
 Turner, Dr. T., monument at 
 Stowe; 109. 
 
 Twywell Stat., ch., 21 1. 
 
 TJ 
 
 Uffington ch., 89. 
 
 Uppingham, inn, grammar 
 school, 223; ch., 224: old 
 school house, 225. 
 
 Upton Hall, 13* 
 
244 
 
 INDEX, 
 
 URNS. 
 
 Urns found at Castor, 62. 
 Usher, Archbp., at Drayton, 37- 
 Ustrina at Castor, 62. 
 
 V 
 
 Vaga, P. del, picture by, 164. 
 
 Yale of the Red Horse, 151. 
 
 Vandyck, pictures by, 19, 39> 
 54, 102, 164, 189. 
 
 Vanloo, J. B., picture by, 104. 
 
 Yanuden, L., picture by, 103. 
 
 Velasquez, picture by, 102. 
 
 Yerney, Sir E., at Edgehill, 
 149; death, 150. 
 
 , Eiiz., mural monument, 
 
 at Norton, 120. 
 
 Veronese, Paul, pictures by, 
 100, 102. 
 
 Yerrio, picture by, 101 ; ceil- 
 ings, 103, 104. 
 
 Victoria, Queen, at Stamford, 
 92. 
 
 Villa, Roman, at Apethorpe, 
 54- 
 
 w 
 
 Waagen, picture by, 54. 
 Wadenhoe, 44. 
 
 House, 44. 
 
 Wakefield Lodge, 130. 
 Wakerley, ch., 194, 
 
 Walcot Hall, 90. 
 
 Walgrave, ch., 184. 
 
 Hall, 18,'. 
 
 Walker, pictures by, 102, 164. 
 Wallow Bank, 147. 
 
 Walpole, Horace, at Welling- 
 borough, 25. 
 
 Walton, ch., 86. 
 
 Wansford Stat., ch., 60. 
 Wappenham, ch., brasses, 156. 
 Warkton, ch., 188. 
 
 WICKEN. 
 
 Wark worth, ch., monuments, 
 brasses, 138. 
 
 Waimington, ch., 52. 
 
 “ Wash,” the, at Crowland, 82. 
 Washington, L., brass, at Sul- 
 grave, 15?. . . . 
 
 family, records 01, at 
 
 Great Brington, 167, 168. 
 Watling Street, 2, 107, 114, Bo, 
 172. 
 
 Watford ch., 120. 
 
 court, 121. 
 
 Weapons, Roman, at Duro- 
 brivse, 62. 
 
 Weedon Stat., 106 ; village, 107. 
 
 Bee, 106. 
 
 on-the-Street, 106. 
 
 Lois, or Pinkeney, 133. 
 
 Weekley ch., 189. 
 
 Weldon, Great, or Weldon-in- 
 the-Woods, ch., 192. 
 
 Welford, ch., 178. 
 
 Welland, river, 91 ; source of, 
 116, 178. 
 
 valley of the, 216. 
 
 Wellingborough Stat., 24 ; 
 Horace Walpole at, ch., 25 ; 
 Free School, 26. 
 
 to Market Harborough, 
 
 200. 
 
 Werburg, St., legend of, 107. 
 Werrington, 86. 
 
 West, picture by, 18. 
 
 Weston ch., 210. 
 
 Favell ch., 14. 
 
 Hall, 1 33. 
 
 Whilton ch., 120. 
 
 Whissendine, 222. 
 
 Whitfield, 155. 
 
 Whit tlebury Forest, 127 ; vil- 
 lage, 128. 
 
 , Lodge, 128. 
 
 Whitwell, ch., 234. 
 
 Whyte Melville, and Holmby 1 
 House, 168. 
 
 Wicken ch., 130. | 
 
 ZUCCHERO. 
 
 Wicken park, 130. 
 
 Widville family, history of, 
 129 ; monuments at Grafton 
 Regis, 130. 
 w ilbarston, 210. 
 
 Willes, Ch. Justice at King’s 
 Sutton, 139. 
 
 William 111., at Burghley, 105 ; 
 at Drayton, 39- 
 
 Williams, Archbp., at Wal- 
 grave, 185. 
 
 Wing, ch., 2, 217. 
 
 Winterhalter, picture by, 104. 
 Wissing, pictures by, 95, 102. 
 Wittering, ch., 60, 90. 
 
 Wold, ch., 181, 185. 
 
 Wolsey, Card., at Milton 
 Park, 81 ; at Grafton, 129. 
 Wolverton Junction, 2 ; village, 
 ch., 2. 
 
 Wood Newton, S 3 - 
 Woodcroft castle, 87. 
 Woodford, 142. 
 
 , ch., 33 ; brasses, 34- 
 
 house, 34- 
 
 lodge, 21 1. 
 
 Woodhull, Kulk, Jacobean 
 monument at Thenford, 152. 
 Wothorpe, 105. 
 
 Y 
 
 Yardley Chase, Cowper’s oak, 
 21. 
 
 Hastings, ch., 22. 
 
 Yelverton family, the, monu- 
 ments to, at Easton M audit, 
 
 23, 24. 
 
 Telvertoft Stat., 207 ; ch., 208. 
 
 Z * 
 
 Zuccliero, pictures by, 3 9> Io2 > 
 164. 
 
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 . (. Messrs. G. Questa & Co. Messrs. Cerulli & Co. 
 
 NEUCHATEL C 
 
 (Suisse) | Messrs. Bouvier Freres, Wine Merchants. 
 
 NEW YORK Messrs. Baldwin Bros. & Co. 
 
 ^1 CE ...... Madame V ve Adolphe Lacroix & Co. 
 
 NUREMBERG Mr. A. Pickert, Dealer in Antiquities. 
 
 OSTEND Messrs. R. St. Amour & Son. 
 
 PALERMO Messrs. Ingham, Whitaker, & Co. 
 
 PARIS Mr. L. Chenue, Packer, Rue Croix des Petits Champs, No. 24. 
 
 p AU Musgrave Clay. 
 
 PISA.. . . (Messrs. Huguet & Van Lint, Sculptors in Alabaster and Marble. 
 
 ( Mr. G. Andreoni, Sculptor in Alabaster. 
 
 PRAGUE Mr. W. Hofmann, Glass Manufacturer, Blauern Stern. 
 
 1 Messrs. Plowden & Co. Messrs. A. Macbean & Co. Messrs. 
 
 ROME ....... ^ Maquay, Hooker, & Co. Messrs. Spada & Flamini. Mr. 
 
 l J. P. Shea. Mr. A. Tombini. 
 
 ROTTERDAM Messrs. Preston & Co. 
 
 SAN REMO Messrs. Fratelli Asquasciati. 
 
 ST. PETERSBURG . Messrs. Thomson, Bonar, & Co. Mr. C. Kruger. 
 
 STOCKHOLM Messrs. Olsson & Wright. 
 
 THOUNE Mr. Jean Kehrli-Sterchi. 
 
 TRIESTE Messrs. Flu. Chiesa. 
 
 TURIN Messrs. Rochas, Pere & Fils. 
 
 VFNTrTf C Mr. L. Bovardi, Ponte alie Ballotte. 
 
 x ’ * I Messrs. S. & A. Blumenthal & Co. Mr. Carlo Ponti. 
 
 VEVEY Mr. Jules Getaz Fils. 
 
 T Mr. H. Ullrich, Glass Manufacturer, 16 Karnthner Strasse. 
 
 VIENNA. < Messrs. J. & L. Lobmeyer, Glass Manufacturers, 13, Karnthner 
 
 ( Strasse. Mr. Peter Comploier. 
 
 ZURICH Mr. Orell Hess. 
 
4 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER, 
 
 May, 
 
 CALEDONIAN RAILWAY. 
 
 TOURS IN SCOTLAND. 
 
 The Caledonian Railway Company have arranged a system of Tours— about 70 in 
 number — by Rail, Steamer, and Coach, comprehending almost every place of interest either 
 for scenery or historical associations throughout Scotland, including — 
 
 EDINBURGH, GLASGOW, ABERDEEN, 
 DUNDEE, INVERNESS, GREENOCK, PAISLEY, 
 DUMFRIES, PEEBLES, STIRLING, 
 
 PERTH, CRIEFF, DUNKELD, OBAN, INVERARY, 
 Tlie Trot»aclLs, Lock-Iiatrine, Locli-Lomond, Loch-Earn, Locii-Tay, 
 Loch- A we, Caledonian Canal, Glencoe, Iona, Staffa, Skye, Balmoral, 
 Braemar, Arran, Bute, The Firth of Clyde, The Falls of Clyde, dc., dc. 
 
 flip 3 * TOURISTS are recommended to procure a copy of the Caledonian Railway Com- 
 pany’s “ Tourist Guide,” which can be had at any of the Company’s Stations, and also at the 
 chief Stations on the London and North-Western Railway, and which contains descriptive 
 notices of the districts embraced in the Tours, Maps, Plans, Bird’s-eye View, &c. 
 
 Tickets for these Tours are issued at the Company's Booking Offices at all the large Stations. 
 
 The Tourist Season generally extends from June to September inclusive. 
 
 The Caledonian Co. also issue Tourist Tickets to the Lake District of 
 England, The Isle of Man, Connemara, The Lakes of Killamey, dc. 
 
 The Caledonian Railway, in conjunction with the London and North-Western Railway, 
 forms what is known as the 
 
 WEST COAST ROUTE 
 
 BETWEEN SCOTLAND & ENGLAND. 
 
 DIRECT TRAINS RUN FROM AND TO 
 
 Glasgow, Edinburgh, Greenock, Paisley, Stirling, Oban, Perth, 
 Dundee, Aberdeen, Inverness, and other places in Scotland. 
 
 TO AND FROM 
 
 London (Euston), Birmingham, Liverpool, Manchester, Leeds, 
 Bradford, and other places in England. 
 
 SLEEPING & VAT SALOON CARRIAGES. THROUGH GUARDS & CONDUCTORS. 
 
 The Caledonian Company’s Trains, from and to Edinburgh, Glasgow, Carlisle, &c., connect 
 on the Clyde with the “ Columbia,” “ Iona,” “ Lord of the Isle6,” “ Ivanhoe,” “ Gael,” and 
 other steamers to and from Dunoon, Innellan, Rothesay, Largs, Millport, the Kyles of 
 Bute, Arran, Campbeltown, Ardrishaig, Inveraray, Loch-Goil, Loch-Long, &c., &c. 
 
 A full service of Trains is also run from and to Glasgow, to and from Edinburgh, 
 Stirling, Oban, Perth, Dundee, Aberdeen, and the North; and from and to Edinburgh, to 
 and from these places. 
 
 For particulars of Trains, Fares , <fec., see the Caledonian Railway Company's Time Tables. 
 It is expected that the Caledonian Company’s large and magnificent 
 
 NEW CENTRAL STATION HOTEL, GLASGOW, 
 
 will be opened during the Season of 1882, under the Company’s own Management. 
 
 General Manager’s Office, JAMES THOMPSON, 
 
 Glasgow, 1882. General Manager. 
 
1882. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 5 
 
 GLASGOW AND SOUTH-WESTERN RAILWAY. 
 
 DIRECT ROUTE BETWEEN 
 
 SCOTLAND & ENGLAND. 
 
 THROUGH TRAINS ARE RUN BETWEEN 
 
 GLASGOW ( St. Enoch ) and LONDON (St. Pancras), 
 
 Via the GLASGOW & SOUTH-WESTERN and MIDLAND RAILWAYS, 
 
 Giving a Direct and Expeditious Service between 
 
 GLASGOW, GREENOCK, PAISLEY, AYR, ARDROSSAN, KILMARNOCK, 
 DUMFRIES, &o., and 
 
 LIVERPOOL, MANCHESTER, BRADFORD, LEEDS, SHEFFIELD, 
 BRISTOL, BATH, BIRMINGHAM, LONDON, &c. 
 PULLMAN DRAWING-ROOM AND SLEEPING CARS 
 
 Are run by the Morning and Evening Express Trains between GLASGOW and LONDON. 
 
 FIRTH OF CLYDE and WEST HIGHLANDS, 
 via GREENOCK. 
 
 EXPRESS and FAST TRAINS are run at convenient hours between 
 
 GLASGOW Sc GREENOCK 
 
 (St. Enoch Station) (Lynedoch St. and Princes Pier Stations) 
 
 IN DIRECT CONNECTION WITH THE 
 
 “ COLUMBA,” “IONA,” “LORD OP THE ISLES/’ 
 
 And other Steamers sailing to and from 
 
 Kirn, Dunoon, Innellan, Rothesay, Kyles of Bute, Ardrishaig, Oban, 
 Inverary, Largs, Millport, Kilcreggan, Kilmun, Loohgoilhead, 
 Garelochhead, &o. 
 
 Through Carriages are run by certain Trains between GREENOCK (Princes Pier), and 
 EDINBURGH (Waverley), and by the Morning and Evening Express Trains between 
 GREENOCK (Princes Pier) and London (St. Pancras). 
 
 RETURN TICKETS issued to COAST TOWNS are available for RETURN AT ANY 
 TIME. 
 
 Passengers are landed at Princes Pier Station, from whence there is a Covered Way to the 
 Pier where the Steamers call ; and Passengers’ Luggage is conveyed free of charge 
 between the Stations and the Steamers. 
 
 ARRAN AND AYRSHIRE COAST. 
 
 An Express and Fast Train Service is given between GLASGOW (St. Enoch), PAISLEY, 
 and TROON, PRESTWICK, AYR, ARDROSSAN, FAIRUE, &c. 
 
 From ARDROSSAN the Splendid Saloon Steamer “ BRODICK CASTLE ” sails daily to 
 and from the ISLAND OF ARRAN, in connection with the Express Train Service. 
 
 Fast Trains provided with Through Carriages are run between AYR, &c.,and GLASGOW, 
 (St. Enoch), and EDINBURGH (Waverley). 
 
 IRELAND. 
 
 A NIGHTLY SERVICE is given by the Royal Mail Steamers via GREENOCK, and also 
 by the ARDROSSAN SHIPPING COMPANY’S Full-Powered Steamers via ARDROSSAN. 
 
 For Particulars as to Trains and Steamers see the Company's Time Tables. 
 Glasgow, May 1882 . W. J. WAIN WRIGHT, General Manager. 
 
6 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May, 
 
 LONDON AND SOUTH-WESTERN RAILWAY, 
 
 LONDON STATION, WATERLOO BRIDGE. 
 
 The Cheap and Picturesque Route to Paris, Havre, Rouen, 
 Honfleur, Trouville, and Caen, via Southampton and Havre, 
 every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday. The last Train from London at 
 9 p.m. goes into Southampton Docks alongside the Steamer. Fares 
 throughout (London to Paris), Single Journey, First Class, 33s.; Second 
 Class, 24s. Double Journey (available for One Month), First Class, 55 s. ; 
 Second Class, 39s. 
 
 Jersey, Guernsey, Granville, and St. Malo. Daily Mail Service 
 to Channel Isles, via Southampton (the favourite route), every Week-day. 
 The last Train from London goes into Southampton Docks, alongside the 
 Steamer, leaving Waterloo each Week-day at 9 p.m. (except on Saturdays, 
 on which day the last Train leaves at 5.20 p.m., and the Steamer goes to 
 Jersey only). Fares throughout (London and Jersey or Guernsey), Single 
 Journey, First Class, 33s. ; Second Class, 23s. ; Third Class, 20s. Double 
 Journey (available for One Month), First Class, 48s. ; Second Class, 38s. ; 
 Third Class, 30s. Direct Service , Southampton to St Malo , every Monday, 
 Wednesday , and Friday , according to Tide. The best Route for Dinard, 
 Dinan, Rennes, Brest, Nantes, Laval, Le Mans, Angers, Avranches, &c. 
 
 Southampton to Cherbourg every Monday and Thursday. Last Train 
 from the Waterloo StatioD, London, at 9 0 a.m. The best Route for 
 Valognes, Carentan, St. Lo, Bayeaux, and Coutances. 
 
 Steamers run between Jersey and St. Malo, and Jersey and Granville, 
 twice Weekly each way. 
 
 For further information apply to Mr. BENNETT, 3, Place Vendome, Paris ; Mr. LANG- 
 STAFF, 67, Grand Quai, Havre; Mr. ENAULT, Honflpur; Mr. R. SPURRIER, Jersey; 
 Mr. SPENCER, Guernsey; Mr. E. D. LE COUTEliR, St. Malo; Messrs. MAHIEU, 
 Cherbourg ; or to Mr. E. K. CORKE, Steam Packet Superintendent, Southampton. 
 
 G R EA T EASTERN RAI LWAY. 
 
 THE TOURIST’S ROUTE TO THE CONTINENT 
 
 IS via HARWICH. 
 
 The Continental Express Train leaves Liverpool Street Station, London, 
 for Rotterdam every evening (Sundays excepted), and for Antwerp on 
 Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays, in direct connection with 
 the Fast and elegantly fitted up Passenger Steamers of the Company. 
 
 It is expected that a Daily Service to Antwerp will be commenced on 
 July 1st, 1882 (Sundays excepted). 
 
 The Steamers are large powerful vessels, ranging from 800 to 1200 tons 
 burden, with ample sleeping accommodation ; and consequently Passengers 
 suffer less from mal de mer than by any of the shorter Sea Routes. 
 
 The Provisions on Board are supplied from the Company’s own Hotel 
 at Harwich, and are unequalled in quality. Luggage can be registered 
 through to all principal Towns on the Continent from Liverpool Street 
 Station. Through Tickets are issued at — 44, Regent Street ; 48, Lime 
 Street ; and Blossom’s Inn, Lawrence Lane, Cheapside, E.C. 
 
 Cook and Son’s Tourist Office, Ludgate Circus, London, E.C. 
 
 Gaze and Son’s Tourist Office, 142, Strand, London, E.C. 
 
 O. Caygill’s Tourist Office, 371, Strand, London, E.C. 
 
 And the Continental Booking Office, Liverpool St. Station, London, E.C. 
 For further particulars and Time Books apply to the Continental 
 Traffic Manager, Liverpool Street Station, London, E.C. 
 
1882. 
 
 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 7 
 
 MIDLAND RAILWAY. 
 
 DIRECT ROUTE TO 
 
 EDINBURGH AND GLASGOW, 
 
 Via SETTLE and CARLISLE. 
 
 EXPRESS TRAINS, WITH PULLMAN PARLOURS CARS 
 BY DAY, AND SLEEPING CARS BY NIGHT. 
 
 The Picturesque Route between London and Manchester 
 and Liverpool, through Matlock and the 
 Peak of Derbyshire. 
 
 Improved Express Service between London and Nottingham, 
 Sheffield , Leeds , and Bradford . 
 
 Tbe Midland Railway System (one of the largest in the United Kingdom), extending 
 from LONDON in tbe SOUTH to LIVERPOOL in the NORTH-WEST, and from BOURNE- 
 MOUTH and BRISTOL in the WEST to CARLISLE in the NORTH, affords direct com- 
 munication with all the manufacturing and business centres, including — 
 
 LONDON, PLYMOUTH, SHEFFIELD, 
 
 LIVERPOOL, BRISTOL, HUDDERSFIELD, 
 
 MANCHESTER, BIRMINGHAM, YORK. 
 
 NOTTINGHAM, WOLVERHAMPTON, SCARBOROUGH, 
 
 GLASGOW, LEICESTER, LEEDS, 
 
 EDINBURGH, NORTHAMPTON, BRADFORD, 
 
 SWANSEA, DERBY, &c 
 
 The Trains of the Midland Company run to and from tbe St. Pancras Station in London, 
 the Central Station, Ranelagh Street, Liverpool, the New Street Station in Birmingham’ 
 the Central and London Road Stations in Manchester, and the Wellington Station in Leeds! 
 
 The official Time-tables of the Company, and every information respecting their Trains 
 and arrangements, may be obtained at any of the above-mentioned Stations, and the other 
 Stations on the Line. 
 
 TOURIST TICKETS 
 
 are issued by the Midland Company during the Summer Months from all principal Stations 
 on their syi'tem to principal places ot Tourist resort and interest in England, Scotland 
 Ireland, and Wales ; and special arrangements are made for Pleasure Parties. 
 
 Third-Class Passengers conveyed by all Trains at 
 Penny per Mile Pares. 
 
 The Company are General Carriers to and from all parts of ENGLAND, SCOTLAND 
 IRELAND, and WALES. 
 
 Derby, 1882. 
 
 JOHN NOBLE, General Manager. 
 
8 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May, 
 
 DUBLIN AND GLASGOW STEAM PACKET COMPANY. 
 
 The Company’s First Class Saloon Paddle Steamers, 
 
 Duke of Argyll, Duke of Leinster, Lord Clyde, Lord Gough, 
 
 OR OTHER STEAMERS, 
 
 Are intended to Sail as per Monthly Sailing bills, unless prevented by any unforeseen 
 
 occurrence, from 
 
 DUBLIN TO GLASGOW 
 
 Every MONDAY, WEDNESDAY and FRIDAY, and every alternate TUESDAY, 
 THURSDAY and SATURDAY. From 
 
 GUT^ASG-OW TO DUBLIN 
 
 Every MONDAY, WEDNESDAY and FRIDAY, and every alternate TUESDAY, 
 THURSDAY and SATURDAY, calling at Greenock both ways, except Saturday Boat 
 from Dublin, which proceeds direct to Glasgow. 
 
 
 £ 
 
 s. 
 
 d. 
 
 Return Ticket to Edinburgh 
 
 £ 
 
 s. 
 
 d. 
 
 Cabin Fare, (including Steward’s 
 
 
 
 
 (2 Months) 
 
 1 
 
 10 
 
 O 
 
 Fees) 
 
 O 
 
 15 
 
 O 
 
 Single Ticket to Edinburgh 
 
 
 
 
 Return Tickets (6 Months) . . 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 6 
 
 (3rd Class and Deck) . . . 
 
 O 
 
 8 
 
 6 
 
 Steerage 
 
 O 
 
 6 
 
 O 
 
 Return Ticket to Edinburgh 
 
 
 
 
 Return Tickets (6 Months) . . 
 
 O 
 
 10 
 
 O 
 
 (2 Months) (3rd Class and 
 
 
 
 
 Single Ticket to Edinburgh 
 
 1 
 
 O 
 
 O 
 
 Deck) 
 
 O 
 
 14 
 
 O 
 
 Passengers can travel between Greenock and Edinburgh Direct, without change of 
 carriage, by either Caledonian or North British Railway, according to the Ticket they hold. 
 The Caledonian Railway Stations are Cathcart Street, Greenock; and Prince’s Street, 
 Edinburgh. North British Company’s— Lyndoch Street, Greenock; and Haymarket and 
 Waverly Stations, Edinburgh. 
 
 Passengers are also Booked Through between Dublin and 'the principal Railway 
 Stations in Scotland. 
 
 ACrJESS'TS. — Henry Lamokt, 93, Hope Street, Glasgow. James Little & Co., Excise 
 Buildings, Greenock. 
 
 HUBMIT OFFICES. — Booking Office for Passengers— 1 Eden Quay ; where Berths 
 can be secured up to 2 o’clock, p.m., on day of Sailing. 
 
 CHIEF OFFICE AID STORES.— 71, NORTH WALL. 
 
 Further particulars, Monthly Bills, &c„ on application to { m ANN? feJ'Z7mnag,r. 
 
 GENERAL STEAM NAVIGATION COMPANY. 
 
 From and to Irongate and St. Katherine's Wharf, near the Tower. 
 
 LONDON AND BOULOGNE. — The Dolphin, Rhine, Cologne, Moselle, or Concordia . — For departures 
 see Daily Papers. FARES — London to Boulogne, 12s., or 8s. 6d . ; Return 18s. 6 <2. or 13«. 
 
 LONDON TO PARIS direct from London, via Boulogne.— FARES— S ingle (available for 
 Three Days), Saloon, 1st Class Rail, 12. Is. 6d.; Saloon, 2nd Class Rail, 12. 3s. ; Fore Cabin, 2nd Class Rail, 
 19s. 6<i. ; 3rd Class Rail, 16s. 6 <2. Return (available for Fourteen Days), 22. 12s. 6c2. ; 22. ; 12. 15s. ; 12. 6s. 
 
 LONDON AND HAVRE —Swift or Swallow— Fr om London— Every Thursday. From Havre— 
 Every Sunday. FARES — Chief Cabin, 13s. ; Fore Cabin, 9s. ; Return Tickets, 20s. 6d. and 14s. 
 
 LONDON AND OSTEND , — The Swift and Swallow. — From London — Wednesday and Sunday. 
 From Ostend — Tuesday and Friday. FARES (Steward’s Fee included), Chief Cabin, 15s. ; Fore Cabin, 
 10s. Return, 23s. and 15s. 6d. 
 
 LONDON AND ANTWERP. — The Hawk, Teal, Falcon, or Capulet. From London — Every 
 Tuesday and Saturday. From Antwerp — Every Tuesday and Friday. FARES, Chief Cabin, 20s. ; Fore 
 Cabin, 12s. 6<2. Return, 31s. and 19s. 3d. 
 
 LONDON AND HAMBURG , — The Libra, Osprey, Iris, Rainbow, Martin, Granton, Widgeon, Nautilus, 
 or Alford — From London — Every Wednesday and Saturday. From Hamburg — Three times a week. 
 FARES, Chief Cabin, 40s . ; Fore Cabin, 20s. Return Tickets, 61s. 6d. and 31s. 
 
 LONDON AND BORDEAUX. — Kestrel, Bittern, Lapwing and Gannet. From London — Every 
 Thursday. From Bordeaux — Every Friday. FARES, Chief Cabin, 32. ; Fore Cabin, 22. Return Tickets, 
 Chief Cabin, 62.; Fore Cabin, 32. 6s. 8d. 
 
 LONDON AND EDINBURGH (Gbanton Peer). — T he Virgo and Stork. From London — Every 
 Wednesday and Saturday. From Edinburgh (Granton Pier) — Every Wednesday and Saturday. FARES, 
 Chief Cabin, 22s. ; Fore Cabin, 16s. Return, 34s. and 24s. 6d. Deck (Soldiers and Sailors only), 10s. 
 
 LONDON AND HULL. — The Heron, Ostrich, or Hamburg. From London — Every Wednesday 
 and Saturday, at 8 mom. From Hull — Every Wednesday and Saturday. FARES, Saloon, 8s. ; Fore Cabin, 
 5 s. Return Tickets, 12s. 6d. and 8s. 
 
 LONDON AND YARMOUTH.— From London Bridge Wharf. During the summer there is a 
 special passenger service. FARES, Saloon, 8s. ; Fore Cabin, 6s. Return Tickets, 12s. and 9s. Steward’s Fees 
 are included in above Fares and Return Tickets by the Company’s vessels are available for one month. 
 
 For further particulars apply to the Secretary, 71, Lombard Street, London, E.C. 
 
1882. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 9 
 
 BARROW ROUTE TO 
 
 THE ISLE OF MAN. 
 
 Express Service. Shortest Sea Passage (reduced to 3 hours) by the Picturesque Route, 
 via Grange, Furness Abbey, and Barrow. 
 
 The Barrow Steam Navigation Company’s First-Class New and Swift Paddle Steamer 
 “Manxman,” or other First-Class Paddle Steamer, will sail (weather and unforeseen 
 circumstances permitting) between BARROW (Ramsden Dock Station) and DOUGLAS 
 (Isle of Man) as follows : — 
 
 May 2nd to May 25 th. 
 BARROW TO DOUGLAS every Tuesday, 
 Thursday and Saturday, at 2 : 50 p.m. 
 
 May 3rd tr> May 26 th. 
 DOUGLAS TO BARROW every Monday, 
 Wednesday, and Friday, at 9 : 30 a.m. 
 
 May 2 1th to September 30 th. 
 BARROW TO DOUGLAS Daily (Sundays 
 excepted), at l : 45 p.m. 
 
 May 29 th to September 30 th, 
 DOUGLAS TO BARROW Daily (Sundays 
 excepted) at 8 : 0 a.m. 
 
 In connection with Trains to and from all parts of the United Kingdom. 
 Particulars of additional Sailings during July and August will be announced in Time 
 Tables and Sailing Bills for those respective months. 
 
 JAMES LITTtiE & Co., Barrow-in-Furness. 
 
 SUMMER TOURS IN SCOTLAND. 
 
 GLASGOW & THE HIGHLANDS. 
 
 (Royal Route via Crinan and Caledonian Canals.) 
 
 CLAYMORE NEW SCREW STEAM SHIP. 
 
 The Royal Mail steamers— Columba, Iona, Mountaineer, Clansman, Glencoe, 
 Chevalier, Pioneer, Clydesdale, Glengarry, Gondolier, Cygnet, Staffa, 
 Linnet, Plover, Fingal, Lochiel, Islay, Queen of the Lake, and Xnverary 
 Castle, Sail during the Season for ISLAY, LOCHAWE, OBAN. FORT-WJLL1 AM, 
 INVERNESS, STAFFA, IONA, GLENCOE, TOBERMORY, PORTREE, STROME- 
 FERRY, GAIRLOCH, ULLAPOOL, LOCH1NVER, & STORNOWAY ; affording Tourists 
 an opportunity of visiting the magnificent Scenery of Lochawe, Glencoe, the Cuchullin 
 Hills, Loch Scavaig, Loch Coruisk, Loch Maree, and the famed Islands of Staffa and Iona. 
 
 Official Guide Book, 3d. Illustrated,6d. ; cloth gilt, Is. Time-Bills, with Map and Tourist 
 Fares, free, of Messrs. Chatto and Windus, Publishers, 214 Piccadilly, London; or by post 
 from the owner. DAVID MaCBRAYNE, 119, Hope Street, Glasgow. 
 
 GLAS60W, BELFAST, BRISTOL, CARDIFF, AND SWANSEA. 
 
 Carrying goods for Newport (Mon.) Exeter, Gloucester, Cheltenham, &c., &c. 
 
 The Screw Steamships “ Solway ,” “ Avon” “ Severn,” Princess Alexandra ,” or other 
 Steamers are intended to sail (unless prevented by circumstances) from Glasgow, 
 calling at Greenock. 
 
 To Bristol via Belfast every Monday and Thursday at 2 p.m. 
 
 To Swansea every Friday ,2 p.m. 
 
 To Cardiff „ 2 p.m. 
 
 Bristol to Glasgow via Belfast every Monday and Thursday. 
 
 Swansea to Glasgow „ „ „ Wednesday. 
 
 Cardiff to Glasgow „ Swansea and Belfast every Monday. 
 
 These Steamers have very superior accommodation for passengers, and afford a favourable opportunity for 
 __ making excursions from West of England to Ireland and Scotland. 
 
 Fares from Glasgow Cabin, 20s. Steerage, 12s. 6d. Soldiers and Sailors, 10s. 
 Fares from Belfast „ 17s. 6d. ,, 10s. 
 
 Returns Cabin and Steerage, Fare and Half, available for Two Months. 
 
 For rates of freight and further particulars, apply to 
 
 WILLIAM SLOAN & Co., 140, Hope Street, Glasgow. 
 
 QUEEN’S HOTEL, 
 
 ABERYSTWITH. 
 
 T HIS Hotel is situate on tlie Marine Terrace, facing the sea, 
 and contains several Private Sitting Rooms, Coffee Rooms, Ladies’ 
 Drawing Room, Library, and all its Bedrooms are pleasantly situated. 
 
 TABLE D’HOTE AT 6 O’CLOCK DURING THE SEASON. 
 ARRANGEMENTS MADE FOR FAMILIES . 
 
 TARIFF ON APPLICATION. 
 
 W. H. PALMER, Proprietor. 
 
10 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May, 
 
 A I X “ LES* BAINS. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL DE L’EUROPE. 
 
 Proprietor, J. BEENASCON. 
 ICIEST-CLASS House, admirably situated near the Casino, 
 * the Baths, and the English Church. This Hotel is 
 strongly recommended to Travellers for the comfort of its 
 arrangements. Good Gardens, with a beautiful view of the 
 Lake and Mountains. Large and small Apartments for Families 
 at moderate prices, and a Chalet in the Garden for Families 
 who may prefer being out of the Hotel. Excellent Table- 
 THote. Open all the Year. LAWN TENNIS. 
 
 Carriages for hire, and an Omnibus belonging to the 
 Hotel to meet every Train. 
 
 AIX ■ LES- BA INS- 
 
 HOTEL VENAT ET BRISTOL. 
 
 OPEN ALL THE YEAR ROUND. 
 
 European Reputation. Re-furnished, with extensive Garden. 
 
 T H E SPLENDID HOT E L, 
 
 150 Rooms, situated up Hill, with Lift, will be 
 OPEN the 1st of March, 1884. 
 
 ROSSIGNOLT, Proprietor. 
 
 AIX- LES- BAINS. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL DE L’UNIYERS. 
 
 First-Class Establishment, Open all the Year. 
 
 OPLENDID Situation; immense Garden; South aspect well shaded; 
 O a very extended view of Lake Bourget and tbe Mountains. Belvedere, with fine 
 prospect of the principal points of view, and Excursions. Small and large Apartments ; 
 Salons for Families; Drawing Room, Reading Boom, and Smoking Room, with every comfort 
 that can be desired. French and Foreign Payers. 
 
 Arrangements made for Pension. Private Carriages. Stable and Coach-house. 
 
 Omnibus of the Hotel meets every Train . 
 
 C LLE - RENAUD, Proprietor. 
 
 ASCENT OF THE MATTERHORN, MONT 
 PELVOUX, See., See. 
 
 By EDWARD WHYMPER. 
 
 With Maps and Illustrations. Medium 8vo. 10s. 6d. 
 
 JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 
 
1882. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 11 
 
 GRAND MONARQTTE HOTEL. 
 
 Close by the Railway Stations and the Baths. 
 
 NTTELLEN’S HOTEL. 
 
 Opposite the Fountain “ Eliza.’ 
 
 AIX - LA - CHAPELLE. 
 
 KAISERBAD HOTEL (built in 1865). 
 The principal Spring rises in the Hotel itself. 
 
 NETJBAD HOTEL. 
 
 (Renovated In 1879.) 
 
 Mr. G. F. DREMEL Is the Proprietor of these four hotels of European reputation. The combination in 
 one hand of Four Establishments of such magnitude, enables Mr. Dremel to afford suitable accommodation 
 to all comers ; to visitors to whom money is no object, as well as to parties desirous of living at a moderate 
 rate of expense. “ Excellent Hotels,” vide Murray. 
 
 AIX - LA - CHAPELLE. 
 
 TTOYER’S IMPERIAL CROWN HOTEL, 
 H near the Kurhaus and Bath-houses, with 
 large Garden. Very comfortable Apart- 
 ments. Single Rooms. Exc ellent Cooking, 
 and attentive attendance. Very Moderate 
 Charges, and advantageous arrangements for 
 Winter. OTTO HOYER. 
 
 AIX- LA -CHAPELLE. 
 
 IT OYER’S UNION HOTEL. First-Class 
 -W- Hotel, immediately opposite the Rhenish 
 Railway Station, and admirably situated in 
 the best part of the city. Well-known for 
 its cleanliness, comfortable apartments, 
 excellent cooking, aud Moderate Charges. 
 
 CHARLES HOYER. 
 
 AMIENS. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL DU RHIN. 
 
 PLACE ST. DENIS. 
 
 DIRST-CLASS HOTEL, highly recommended, near to the 
 * Cathedral and Railway Station. Affords every accommodation. 
 Spacious Apartments and airy Bed Rooms. Private and Public Saloons. 
 Warm Baths. Large Garden. Stabling and Coach Houses. Omnibus 
 to and from each Train. English Interpreter. The house is newly 
 furnished. 
 
 CH. FICHEUX, Proprietor. 
 
 AMIENS. 
 
 TT oTEL DE L’UNIVERS. — First-Class Hotel, facing St. Denis’ 
 
 A " A ' Square, near the Railway Station. Three minutes’ walk to the Cathedral. Drawing 
 and Bath Rooms. English Interpreter. 
 
 Omnibus of the Hotel at every Train. 
 
 AMIENS. 
 
 prOTEL DE FRANCE, D’ANGLETERRE, and DE L’EUROPE. 
 
 -LL BRULE, Proprietor.— -First-Class Hotel, one of the oldest on the Continent. Situated 
 in the centre and the finest part of the town. Having recently been newly furnished, it offers 
 great comfort. Families and Single Gentlemen accommodated with convenient Suites of 
 Apartments and Single Rooms. 
 
 OMNIBUS AT STATION. ENGLISH SPOKEN. 
 
 ANTWERP. 
 
 HOTEL ST. ANTOINE. 
 
 PLACE VERTE, Opposite the Cathedral. 
 
 r PHIS excellent FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, which enjoys the well- 
 
 merited favour of Families and Tourists, has been re-purchased by its old and well- 
 known Proprietor, Mr. SCHMITT SPAENHOVEN, who, with his Partner, will do every- 
 thing in tbeir power to render the visit of all persons who may honour them with their 
 patronage as agreeable and comfortable as possible. 
 
 BATHS IN THE HOTEL. 
 
 MODERATE PRICES. 
 
12 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May, 
 
 ANTWERP. 
 
 HOTEL DH GH&ND LABODREOR. 
 
 T^HIS Hotel occupies the first rank in Antwerp, and its 
 position is most delightful. The testimonials given by Families 
 is the best assurance of its 
 
 COMFORT AND MODERATE CHARGES. 
 
 AVIGNON. 
 
 HOTEL D’EUROPE. 
 
 TTIGHLY recommended to English Travellers on their journey to Nice, 
 H Italy, &c. First-Class and Moderate Prices. The Proprietor and his Wife having 
 lived in England, are aware of the wants of English Travellers ; and he assures them that 
 their comforts shall be studied. Omnibus at all Trains. 
 
 AVRANCHES. 
 
 Grand H6tel de Londres. 
 
 FAUVEL, Proprietor. 
 
 The best in the Town. Spacious 
 Garden. English spoken, and English 
 Newspapers. 
 
 BADEN-BADEN. 
 
 Grand Hdtel Belle - Vue, 
 
 First-class and large establishment, most delightful 
 situation of all, in the Alli-Lichtenthal in the 
 centre of a fine park. Keally well-kept. Arrange- 
 ments for a s^jour. 
 
 RXOTTE, Proprietor. 
 
 BADEN-BADEN. 
 
 VICTORIA HOTEL. 
 
 Proprietor, Mr. FRANZ GBOSHOLZ. 
 
 T'HIS is one of the finest-built and best-furnished First-class 
 
 A Hotels, situated on the new Promenade, near the Kursaal and Theatre ; it 
 commands the most charming views in Baden. It is reputed to be one of the best 
 Hotels in Germany. The Table and Wines are excellent, with prompt attendance 
 and great civility. Prices very moderate. English and other Journals, 
 
 BADEN-BADEN. 
 
 HOTEL DE HOLLANDS and Dependance. 
 
 A U BEAU SEJOUR. — A. Roessler, Proprietor. This favourite and first-class 
 Hotel, situated near the Kursaal, Promenade, and Theatre, commands one of the most 
 charming views in Baden. The Hotel and Dependance consist of One Hundred and Sixty 
 Sleeping Apartments, elegant Sitting-rooms, and a Garden for the use of visitors. Extensive 
 and airy Dining-room, and a comfortable Public Sitting-room, with Piano and Library. It is 
 conducted under the immediate superintendence of the Proprietor, who endeavours, by the 
 most strict attention and exceedingly Moderate Prices, to merit the continued patronage ol 
 English and American visitors. English and American Newspapers. The Table d’Hdte and 
 Wines of this Hotel are reputed of the best quality in Baden. Fixed moderate charges for 
 everything. Rooms from 2s. and upwards. 
 
 PENSION Prices for a longer stay. 
 
1882. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 13 
 
 BADEN-BADEN. 
 
 HOTEL DE LA COUR DE BADE. 
 
 Badischer Hof. 
 
 (Not to be confounded with the Hotel de la Ville de Bade , opposite the 
 Bailway Station.) 
 
 A FIRST-RATE and large Establishment near the Promenade and 
 the Conversation House, with extensive Gardens, Warm, Mineral, and other Baths, 
 enjoying a well-merited reputation for its great comfort and attention. It is patronised by 
 the most distinguished Families. 
 
 Manager, Mr. Fr. ZIEGLER. 
 
 BADEN-BADEN. 
 
 HOTEL STADT BADEN. 
 
 On the right hand side and nearest the Station. 
 
 C OMMANDING a delicious view of the Old Castle and high rocks. Known for its Clean- 
 liness, excellent Cooking, good Attendance, and fixed Moderate Charges. 
 
 E. RQESSLER, Landlord. 
 
 A BADEN-BADEN. 
 
 HOTEL DE PRANCE. 
 
 First-class Hotel. Best Situation. 
 Excellent Cooking , and Moderate Charges. 
 
 PENSION. 
 
 CARL ULRICH, Proprietor. 
 
 BADEN-BADEN. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK FOR 
 NORTH GERMANY. 
 
 Post 8vo. 10s. 
 
 John Murray, Albemarle Street. 
 
 BAGNERES DE LUCHON PYRENEES. 
 
 Hotel Bonnemaison et cLe Londres, 
 
 Opposite the Springs. 
 
 First-Class Hotel. Recommended to Families. 
 
 HTE. VIDAL Fils, Proprietor. 
 
 BAGNERES DE LUCHON PYRENEES. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL RICHELIEU. 
 
 (Hotel de S. M. le roi de Hollande.) 
 
 200 Rooms, 10 Salons. Splendid view. 
 
 LOUIS ESTRADE, Proprietor. 
 
 BAGNERES DE BIGORRE. 
 
 Grand H6tel Beau-Sejour. 
 
 First-Class. 
 
 The most comfortable and the best situated. 
 
 BOLOGNA. 
 
 HOTEL PELLEGRINO. 
 
 The most central position, and 
 unsurpassed for its home comforts 
 and extremely Moderate Charges. 
 
 F. RAVALDONI, Proprietor. 
 
 BALE, SWITZERLAND. 
 
 HOTEL SCHWEIZERHOF. 
 
 Opposite the Swiss French Railway Station, the healthiest part of the Town. 
 
 Moderate Charges. Well Recommended. 
 
 L. MERIAN, Proprietor. 
 
14 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May, 
 
 BAMBERG (GERMANY). 
 
 HOTEL ZU DEN DREI KRONEN. 
 
 T RECOMMEND my newly-furnished and arranged Hotel, situated in 
 the middle of the Town, to all Travellers and Families. First-Class Board. Pure 
 Wines, and excellent Service. Moderate Prices. Omnibus at the Station on the arrival of 
 every Train. Carriages. Also Warm and Cold Baths in the Hotel. 
 
 I. A. BERNREUTHER, late Proprietor of the Hotel “ Zum Hirsch ” at Mergentheim. 
 
 BARCELONA. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL DES QUATRE NATIONS. 
 
 IN THE RAMBLA. 
 
 T HE largest and finest Hotel in Barcelona ; most advantageously situated in 
 the best position in the Rambla, facing the Teatro Principal, and close to the Post and 
 Telegraph Offices. Full Southern Aspect. Enlarged and newly decorated. Table d’Hote. 
 Private Service. Large and small Apartments. Many Fire-places. Bath. Reading Room, 
 with Piano. Smoking Room and Parlour. Foreign Newspapers. Carriages of every 
 description. Great Comfort and Cleanliness. French Cuisine. Omnibus at Railway 
 Stations. Interpreters. Moderate Terms. English and German Spoken. Arrangements 
 for Pension during the Winter Season. 
 
 BELFAST. 
 
 THT T TUT Tf? TD Y A T XT T 
 
 X XX Xi X xVX Xr Xjx Xv» X Jrx Xst XX U X X_i Xu * 
 
 Just Re-decorated and Enlarged. First-Class. Best Situation. 
 
 Omnibuses meet all Trains and Steamers. 
 
 W. J. JURY, Proprietor. 
 
 BELLAGIO (Lago di Como). 
 
 GRAND HOTEL BELLAGIO. 
 
 ANE of the finest in Europe, containing 200 Rooms, 
 
 ^ 30 Sitting Rooms, and surrounded by a splendid Park and Garden. 
 
 Full view of all three Lakes and the Mountains. Hot and Cold Baths. 
 Douches. Equipages and Boats attached to the Hotel. English Service. 
 Moderate Charges. Daily arrangements. Highly recommended. Open 
 all the Year. 
 
 L. BREITSCHMID, Proprietor. 
 
 BERLIN. 
 
 HOTEL D'ANGLETERRE, 
 
 2, SCHINKEL-PLACE, 2. 
 
 SITUATED IN THE FINEST AND MOST ELEGANT PART OF THE TOWN. 
 
 Near to the Royal Palaces, Museums, and Theatres. 
 
 S INGLE Travellers and large Families can be accommodated with entire Suites of Apart- 
 ments, consisting of splendid Saloons, airy Bedrooms, <fcc., all furnished and carpeted 
 in the best English style. First-rate Table d’Hote, Baths, Equipages, Guides. Times and 
 Galignani’s Messenger taken in. Residence of Her British Majesty’s Messengers. 
 
 R. SIEBELIST, Proprietor. 
 
1882. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 15 
 
 BERLIN- 
 
 HOTEL DU NORD, 
 
 UNDER THE LIME TREES. 
 
 FIRST-CLASS HOUSE, CLOSE TO THE IMPERIAL 
 PALACE AND THE THEATRES. 
 
 Beautiful Dining Room , freshly Decorated. 
 
 EXCELLENT CUISINE. MODERATE PRICES. 
 
 ENGLISH NEWSPAPERS. 
 
 FEED. SCHMIDT, Proprietor. 
 
 BERLIN. 
 
 HOTEL DE RUSSIE. 
 
 'THIS well-known FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, newly restored 
 -L and handsomely decorated, and situated in the most attracting part 
 of the City, facing the Imperial Castle, 
 
 NEAR UNTER DEN LINDEN, 
 
 recommends itself for the comfort it offers to its Visitors. 
 
 CARL FRIEDRICH KUHRT. 
 
 BERLIN. 
 
 THE KAISERHOF. 
 
 Wilhelmsplatz. Zietenplatz. 
 
 rpHE largest and most commodious First-Class Hotel in Berlin, 
 in an elegant, quiet, and magnificent part of the city. 
 
 Situated 
 
 BERLIN. 
 
 ST. PETERSBURG 
 HOTEL. 
 
 Unter den Linden 31. 
 
 The Table d’H6te arid Wines of this Hotel 
 are reputed of the best quality in Berlin. 
 Fixed Moderate Charges. 
 
 JULES HEUDTLASS , Proprietor. 
 
 BOTZEN, SOUTH TYROL. 
 
 HOTEL VICTORIA. 
 
 Opposite the Railway Station . 
 First Class. 
 
 H. SCHMID. 
 
16 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER 
 
 May, 
 
 BIARRITZ. 
 
 HOTEL DES PRINCES. 
 
 A LARGE and beautiful Hotel with a fine view of the Sea. This Hotel 
 will be found most suitable for English Families and Gentlemen. Excellent cooking. 
 Exceptional arrangements can be made for pension. English spoken. 
 
 E. COUZAIM, Proprietor. 
 
 BOLOGNA. 
 
 Murray’s Handbook for 
 North Italy. 
 
 Post 8vo. 10s. 
 
 JOHN MURRAY, Albemarle Street. 
 
 CROWE AND CAVADCASELLE. 
 History of Painting in 
 North Italy, 
 
 From 14th to 16th Century. With Illus- 
 trations. 2 vols. 8 vo. 42s. 
 
 JOHN MURRAY, Albemarle Street. 
 
 THE GOLDEN STAR HOTEL. 
 
 T HIS First-rate and unrivalled Hotel, patronised by the 
 English Royal Family, Nobility, and Gentry, is the 
 nearest Hotel to the Railway Station, and to the Landing- 
 places of the Rhine Steamers. The Proprietor, Mr. J. 
 SCHMITZ, begs leave to recommend his Hotel to Tourists. 
 The Apartments are comfortably furnished and carpeted in 
 the best style, and the charges are moderate. Arrangements 
 for the Winter may be made, on the most moderate terms. 
 
 BORDEAUX. 
 
 HOTEL DE PARIS. 
 
 FIRST-CLASS HOTEL. 
 
 Much frequented by English and American 
 Travellers. 
 
 BORDEAUX. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK 
 FOR FRANCE. 
 
 Part I. Post 8 vo. Is. 6d. New Edition. 
 Revised to date. 
 
 JOHN MURRAY, Albemarle Street. 
 
 BOULOGNE -SUR-MER. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL CHRI8T0L & BRISTOL 
 
 First-class Hotel. 
 
 Best Situation in the Town. Highly recommended 
 for Families and Gentlemen. 
 
 Carriage in Attendance on Arrival of all Trains and Boats. 
 P. CHRISTOL, Proprietor and Manager. 
 
 BOULOGNE-SUR-MER. 
 
 FAMILY HOTEL AND BOARDING- HOUSE, 
 
 87 & 89, RUE DE THIERS. 
 
 Established 1845. Near the Port. Very comfortable. Moderate Charges. 
 
 Proprietor, L. BOUTOILLE. 
 
1882. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 17 
 
 BREMEN. 
 
 HOTEL DE L’EUROPE. 
 
 First-Class English Hotel. Entirely Renovated. Highly Rec<mmended . 
 
 LUSCHE-BAUR, Proprietor. 
 
 Former! v of i H0TEL BAUR AU LAC, ZURICH. 
 J ormeny or ^ HQTEL DE RUSSIE> BERLIN. 
 
 BRUGES. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL DU COMMERCE. 
 
 TjURST-CLA SS HOTEL. — Proprietor, C. Vanden Berghe. The largest 
 
 L and oldest Hotel of the Town. Comfort. Moderate Charges. c; 
 
 Special Omnibus. 
 
 BRUSSELS. 
 
 HOTEL MENGELLE 
 
 (RUE ROYALE). 
 
 B. MENGELLE, Proprietor. 
 
 rpHIS large and beautiful First-Class Hotel is situated in the finest and 
 •L most healthy part of the Town, near to the Promenade# the most frequented, and is 
 supplied with every modern accommodation and comfort. Table d’H6te at 6 and 7.15 
 five francs. Restaurant h la carte, and at fixed prices, at any hour. Excellent “ Cuisine ” 
 and Choice Wines. 
 
 Baths, Smoking Room, Reading Room, Billiard Room. 
 Arrangements made with Families during the Winter Season. 
 
 BRUSSELS. 
 
 HOTEL DE L’EUROPE, 
 
 PLACE ROYALE. 
 
 The Best Situation in Brussels, near the Park, Eojal Palace, 
 Boulevards, Museum, and Picture Galleries. 
 
 Table d’Hote. 
 
 ENGLISH SPOKEN. 
 
 A BRUSSELS. 
 
 HOTEL DE L’EMPEREUR. 
 
 63, RUE NEUVE. Patronised by Prince Teek. 
 
 'T'HIS old-established First-Class Family Hotel is very conveniently 
 situated near the Station du Nord. Post and Telegraph Offices and Theatre de ia 
 Monnaie. The new Proprietor, who sneaks English, has repleted it. with every modern 
 comlort. 60 Bed Rooms, private Dining and Sitting Rooms. Excellent Table d'Hoie 
 Choice Wines. Terms Moderate. English Newspapers. Attendants speak English. Baths 
 in the Hotel. Arrangements made lor a protracted stay. Rooms irom 3 irancs. 
 
 N.B. — A speciality is the beautiful Garden adjoining the Hotel. 
 
 Proprietor, HENRY DORGELOH. 
 
 c 
 
18 
 
 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May, 
 
 BRUSSELS. 
 
 HOTEL DE LA POSTE, 
 
 KITE FOSS^-AUX-LOUPS, 
 
 NEAR THE PLACE DE LA MONNAIE. 
 
 This Hotel, specially frequented by English and Americans, is situated in the 
 centre of the Town, and near the principal Theatres. 
 
 BEST TABLE D’HOTE. MODERATE CHARGES. 
 
 English Spoken. Omnibus at the Station. 
 
 b r u s s e ls. 
 
 QRAND HOTEL DE SAXE, 77 and 79 EUE NEUVE. Admirably 
 
 situated near the Boulevards, Theatres, and two minutes’ walk from the North 
 Railway Stations. This Establishment, which has been considerably enlarged, possesses 
 now a most splendid Dining-room, and offers to Families and Single Travellers spacious, 
 comfortable, airy Apartments. Tariffs in every Room — Fixed Prices : — Plain Breakfast, lfr. 
 25c. Two chops or steaks, or ham and eggs, lfr. 50c. Table d’Hote at five o’clock, 3fr. 50 c. 
 Private Dinners from 6fr. Bed-rooms, including light, 4fr. 25c. ; 3fr. 75c.; 6fr.— for the 
 first night : and for the following night, 3fr. 50c. ; 3fr. ; 5fr. ; and 4fr. Sitting-rooms from 
 3fr. to 12fr. Attendance lfr. per night. London “Times ” and “ illustrated London News” 
 taken in. Travellers having only a few hours to spend iu Brussels between the departure 
 of the trains, can have refreshments or dinner at any hour. The Waterloo Coach leaves 
 the Hotel at 9.30 o’clock every morning. Private Carriages for Waterloo 28fr., every 
 expense included. Table d’Hote at 6.30 p.m., 5fr. 
 
 HENRY KERVAND, Proprietor. 
 
 BRUSSELS. 
 
 HOTEL DE FRANCE. 
 
 RUE ROYALE AND MONTAGNE DU PARC. 
 
 Proprietor, JOHN JAMES BARBER. 
 
 'T'HE beautiful situation of this Hotel (adjoining the Park), the 
 A Moderate Charges, excellent Cuisine, and greatly improved arrangements for the 
 comfort of Visitors, renders it especially deserving the patronage of Travellers. Reading 
 and Smoking Rooms. English, French, and German Papers taken. English and other 
 principal Languages spoken. Rooms from 3 francs upwards. Table d’Hote (at half-past 
 five o’clock in Winter, six in Summer), 6 francs. 
 
 Arrangements made with Families during the Winter Months . 
 
 BRUSSELS. 
 
 HOTEL DE SUEDE. 
 
 FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, in a thoroughly central position near the New Boulevards. 
 
 EXCELLENT TABLE D’HOTE. CHOICE WINES. 
 
 VAN CUTSEM, Proprietor. 
 
 BRUSSELS. 
 
 pULLIFORD’S HOTEL. — No. 20, opposite the Sablon Church, pres la Place Royale. 
 V The rooms are well adapted and carefully arranged to meet the requirements of 
 Families and single travellers. Ladies’ Drawing Room. Rooms from 2 francs and upwards. 
 Breakfasts, Tea or Coffee with Steak, Chops, or Ham and Eggs, 2 francs ; with Eggs, 
 1 franc 50 cents. Table d’Hote, 6 p.ra. t 3 francs 50 cents. Refreshments to order at any 
 hour. Wines, Spirits, Beer, &c., of the best quality. 
 
1882. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 19 
 
 BRUSSELS. 
 
 HOTEL DE L’UNIYERS, 
 
 RUE NEUVE, 
 
 Has a Wide Entrance from the New Boulevards, which places it in one 
 of the best and most advantageous positions in the city. A First-class 
 House for Families, to be recommended for its Comfort and Moderate 
 Prices. Table d’Hote, Restaurant, Smoking-room, Reading-room. 
 
 Arrangements made for the Winter Season , or for a prolonged residence. 
 
 SCHOEFFTER-WIERTZ, Proprietor. 
 
 BRUSSELS. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL GERNAY. 
 
 Moderate Charges. Ancien Propri&taire de V Hotel de Portugal a Spa. 
 This Hotel is close to the Railway Station for Ostend, Germany, Holland, Antwerp, 
 and Spa, forming the Corner of the Boulevards Botanique et du Nord. 
 
 B U XTO N.' ~~~ 
 
 CRESCENT HOTEL, DERBYSHIRE. 
 
 rpHIS First-Class Hotel is close to the Railway Stations. Connected 
 J- by a Covered Colonnade with the Hot and Natural Baths, Drinking Wells, and New 
 Pavilion and Gardens. Public Dining, Drawing, Smoking, and Billiard Rooms. Suites of 
 Apartments for Private Families. Table d’Hote at Six p.m. Terms strictly moderate. 
 
 JOHN SMILTER, Proprietor. 
 
 ~cXen7 
 
 HOTEL gggl D’ANGLETERRE, 
 
 Rue St. Jean, Nos. 77, 79, 81. 
 
 Situated in the Centre of the Town. Rendezvous of the 
 
 best Society. 
 
 100 Elegantly Furnished and Comfortable Bed Booms and 
 Sitting Booms. 
 
 BREAKFASTS A LA CARTE. 
 
 ©2MMER AT TABLE MOTE* 4 EBAMCSo 
 
 SUITES OF APARTMENTS FOR FAMILIES. 
 ENGLISH AND SPANISH SPOKEN. 
 
 L. MANCEL, Propri^or. 
 
 — c 2 
 
20 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May, 
 
 CAIRO, EGYPT. 
 
 T HIS First-Class Hotel, newly built, is situate on the 
 BOULEVAED DE L’ESBEKIEH, in the centre of the finest part 
 of Cairo. Newly furnished throughout. This Hotel is recommended to 
 travellers for its comfort and moderate charges. There are also 
 
 READING, CONVERSATION, AND BILLIARD ROOMS. 
 
 BATES AND HYDROPATHIC DOUCHES. 
 
 FINE GARDEN LEADING UP TO THE HOTEL. 
 
 AN OMNIBUS TO MEET ALL TRAINS. 
 
 PRICES FROM 10 TO 12 SHILLINGS A DAY. 
 
 ISIDORE ROMAND, Proprietor. 
 
 CANNES. 
 
 HOTEL BEAU SITE. 
 
 gITUATED at the West end of Cannes, adjoining Lord 
 Brougham’s property ; the finest part of the Town. Newly 
 enlarged. 200 Rooms. 20 private Sitting-rooms. Reading 
 and Smoking-rooms, and English Billiard-tablec 
 
 Sheltered Situation, commanding an unequalled view of the 
 Sea, the lies Lerins, and the Esterel Mountain. Large 
 beautiful Gardens, Promenades, and Lawn Tennis belonging 
 to the estate. Arrangements made for the Season for Families. 
 Moderate Charges. Bath-rooms and Lift. 
 
 Omnibuses at the Station. 
 
 OPENED THE 1st OF OCTOBER. 
 
 GEORGES GOUGOLTZ, Proprietor. 
 
 I 
 
1882. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 21 
 
 CANNES. 
 
 WINDSOR HOTEL. 
 
 nPHIS First-Class Family Hotel is beautifully situated, not 
 J- too far from the Town and the Sea, of which, however, it enjoys an 
 extensive view. Baths. Smoking and Billiard Room. Large and 
 sheltered garden. 
 
 Most Comfortable Apartments and Careful 
 Attendance. 
 
 j ED. SCHMID, Proprietor . 
 
 CANNES. 
 
 HOTEL DES PINS. 
 
 HIRST-CLASS Hotel. Highly recommended by Physicians 
 
 I coin’ *■ ~ " 
 
 for its 
 
 salubrity and its sanitary situation. 
 
 L. GRENET, Proprietor. 
 
 CASTELLAMARE 
 
 (Near Naples.) 
 
 GRAND HOTEL ROYAL. 
 
 rPHE only first-class Establishment in the 
 -L town. Splendid House, with a large Garden. 
 Healthy position, opposite the sea. View of the 
 Vesuvius and Pompeii. Carriages for Excursions. 
 
 A. BTJG-G-IEBI, Proprietor. 
 
 CANNES. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK 
 TO PRANCE. 
 
 Part II. Post 8vo. Is. Qd. 
 JOHN MURRAY, Albemarle Street. 
 
 CHAMONIX. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL D’ANGLETERRE. 
 
 First-Class Hotel, with splendid view of Mont Blanc. 
 
 J. CREPAUX, Proprietor. 
 
 ~ CHAU MONT- N EUCHATEL. 
 
 TTOTEL DU CHAUMONT, near Neuchatel, Switzer- 
 land. 3 500 feet high. Open from the 18th June till end of 
 September. Kept by C. RITZMANN. Proprietor of the Hotel Suisse, 
 Cannes. Post and Telegraph Office. Billiards. 
 
 Carriages in the Hotel, 
 
 CHRISTIANIA (Norway). 
 
 GRAND HOTEL. 
 
 J. FRITZHEK, Proprietor. 
 
 HP HIS First-Class Hotel, delightfully situated in the best 
 part of the Town, opposite the Public Parks, the House of Parlia- 
 ment, and close to the Royal Palace, commands a charming view of the 
 Christiania Fjord, and the snrroimding mountains. Table d’Hote. Warm 
 and Cold Baths in the Hotel. English Newspapers taken in. Omnibus 
 at the Railway and Steam-boat Stations. Moderate Charges. 
 
22 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May, 
 
 CHESTER. 
 
 THE GROSVENOR HOTEL. 
 
 THIRST - CLASS, situated in the centre of the City, close to the 
 
 -L Cathedral, The Rows, City Walls, and other objects of interest. 
 
 A Large Coffee-Room and Ladies’ Drawing-Room for the convenience of Ladies and 
 Families The Bedrooms are large and handsomely furnished. 
 
 Open and close carriages, and Posting in all its Branches. 
 
 Omnibuses attend the Trains for the use of Visitors to the Hotel. Tariff to be had on 
 application. A Night Porter in attendance. ' DAVID FOSTER, Manager. 
 
 CHRISTIANIA, NORWAY. 
 
 HOTEL 
 
 W. WELGE, 
 
 FIRST-CLASS HOTEL. 
 
 OPPOSITE THE 
 
 RAILWAY STATION AND HARBOUR. 
 
1882. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 23 
 
 COLOGNE ON THE RHINE. 
 
 JOHANN MARIA FARINA, 
 GEGENUBER DEM JULICH’S PLATZ 
 
 (Opposite the JUllch’s Place), 
 
 PURVEYOR TO H.M. QUEEN VICTORIA ; 
 
 TO H. R. H. THE PRINCE OF WALES ; 
 
 TO H. M. WILLIAM KING OF PRUSSIA; THE EMPEROR OF RUSSIA; 
 THE EMPEROR OF AUSTRIA; 
 
 THE KING OF DENMARK, ETC. ETC., 
 
 OF THE 
 
 ONLY GENUINE EAU DE COLOGNE, 
 
 Which obtained the only Prize Medal awarded to Eau de Cologne at the Paris Exhibition 
 
 of 1867. 
 
 'THE frequency of mistakes, which are sometimes accidental, but lor the most 
 part the result of deception practised by interested individuals, induces me to request 
 the attention of English travellers to the following statement 
 
 The favourable reputation which my Eau de Cologne has acquired, since its invention by 
 my ancestor in the year 1709, has induced many people to imitate it; and in order to be abl 
 to sell their spurious article more easily, and under pretext that it was genuine, they pro- 
 cured themselves a firm of Farina , by entering into partnership with persons of my name, 
 which is a very common one in Italy. 
 
 Persons who wish to purchase the genuine <md original Eau de Cologne ought to be parti- 
 cular to see that the labels and the bottles have not only my name, Johann Maria Farina , 
 but also the additional words, gegenuber dem Julich’s Platt (that is, opposite the Julich’s 
 Place), without addition of any number. 
 
 Travellers visiting Cologne, and intending to buy my genuine article, are cautioned against 
 being led astray by cabmen, guides, commissioners, and other parties, who offer their services 
 to them. I therefore beg to state that my manufacture and shop are in the same house, 
 situated opposite the Julich’s Place, and nowhere else. It happens too, frequently, that the 
 said persons conduct the uninstructed strangers to shops of one of the fictitious firms, where, 
 notwithstanding assertion to the contrary, they are remunerated with nearly the half part of 
 the price paid by the purchaser, who, of course, must pay indirectly this remuneration by a 
 high price and a bad article. 
 
 Another kind of imposition is practised in almost every hotel in Cologne, where waiters, 
 commissioners, &c., offer to strangers Eau de Cologne, pretending that it is the genuine one } 
 and that I delivered it to them for the purpose of selling it for my account. 
 
 The only certain way to get in Cologne my genuine article is to buy it personally at my 
 house, opposite the Julich’s Place, forming the comer of the two streets, Unter Goldschmidt 
 and Oben Marspforten, No. 23, and having in the front six balconies, of which the three 
 bear my name and firm, Johann Maria Farina, Gegenuber dem Jtilich’s Platz. 
 
 The excellence of my manufacture has been put beyond all doubt by the fact that the 
 furors of the Great Exhibitions in London, 1861 and 1862, awarded to me the Prize Medal ; 
 that I obtained honourable mention at the Great Exhibition in Paris, 1865 ; and received 
 the only Prize Medal awarded to Eau de Cologne at the Paris Exhibition of 1867, and in 
 Oporto 1865. 
 
 Cologne, January, 1882. JOHANN MARIA FARINA, 
 
 GEGENUBER DEM JULICH’S PLATZ. 
 
 *** Messrs. J. & R. M c Cracken, 38, Queen Street , Cannon Street , E.C . , 
 are my Sole Agents for Great Britain and Ireland . 
 
24 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May, 
 
 COBLENTZ. 
 
 GIANT HOTEL— HOTEL DU GEANT. 
 
 T HE best situated First-Class Hotel, just opposite the landing-place of 
 the Steam-boats and Fortress Ehrenbreitstein. Excellent Cuisine and Cellar. 
 Moderate Charges. Reduction for a long residence. 
 
 Proprietors, EISENMANN Bros. 
 
 COLOGNE. 
 
 HOTEL DISCH. 
 
 First-Class Hoi el newly refitted ; near the 
 Cathedral and Central Station. Omnibuses 
 meet every Tra n. Large stock of Choice 
 Wines for wholesale. 
 
 F. CHRISTOPH , Proprietor. 
 
 COLOGNE. 
 
 HOTEL DU DOME. 
 
 Th. Metz. — This old and excellent House, advan- 
 tageously situated in the centre of the City, near the 
 Cathedral and the Central Railway Station, has 
 undergone important improvements that make it 
 very comfortable. Table d’Hfite 1 o’clock. Caf6 du 
 Dome adjoining th6 Hotel. Recommended to Eng- 
 lish Tourists. Terms Moderate. 
 
 CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
 The Proprietor of the 
 
 HOTEL D'ANGLETERRE 
 
 (MISSIBIE), 
 
 In view of the great number of Families and Gentlemen travelling in this 
 Capital, has thought it expedient to fit up a Branch for the accommoda- 
 tion of the same, consisting of the 
 
 HOTEL EOYAL, 
 
 For some time the residence of H.B.M.’s Ambassador, Sir H. Elliot, His 
 Majesty the Emperor of the Brazils, and lately, for two months, of His 
 Excellency the Marquis of Salisbury. It is needless to say anything in 
 praise of the fine position and splendid view on the Golden Horn. The 
 Arrangements are thoroughly comfortable, and the Furniture first-class. 
 The Hotel is within two minutes’ walk of the British Embassy ; and the 
 Arrangements have given the greatest satisfaction to the above high 
 personages. The Proprietor begs to inform Gentlemen travelling, that 
 both Establishments are provided with every desirable comfort, Guides, 
 and Attendants ,* and at Prices calculated to suit passing Travellers, as 
 well as those making a prolonged stay. 
 
 F. LOGOTHETTI. 
 
 COPENHAGEN. 
 
 HOTEL KONG3EN OF^DENMARK. 
 
 T'HIS First-Class Hotel, much, frequented by the highest 
 class of English and American Travellers, affords first-rate accom- 
 modation for Families and Single Gentlemen. Splendid situation, close 
 to the Boyal Palace, overlooking the King’s Square. Excellent Table 
 d’Hote. Private Dinners. Best attendance. Reading Room. Plot 
 Baths. Lift. English, French, German, and American Newspapers. 
 All Languages spoken. 
 
 Very Moderate Charges. The only Vienna Coffee House. 
 
 R. KLUM, Proprietor. 
 
1882. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 25 
 
 CORFU. 
 
 HOTEL ST. GEORGE. 
 
 T'HIS FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, very well situated on the best side of 
 
 -L the Esplanade, close to the Royal Palace, is fitted up after the English style, affording 
 first-rate accommodation for Families and Single Gentlemen. Excellent Pension, and 
 prices very moderate. A large addition to the Hotel just now finished makes it one of the 
 most comfortable of the Continent, with splendid Apartments, Conversation Saloon, Reading 
 Saloon and Library, Smoking and Billiard Rooms, and Bath Room. Magnificent Carriages 
 and Horses, the whole new, neat, and elegant. All Languages spoken. Ladies travelling 
 alone will find here the greatest comfort and best attendance. The Hotel is under the 
 patronage of King George I., the Emperor of Austria, and the Grand Duke of Mecklenburgh. 
 
 Madame W e - S. P. MAZZTJCHY & FILS, Proprietors. 
 
 COWES, Isle of Wight. 
 
 DROVER'S MARINE HOTEL. 
 
 PARADE, ISLE OF WIGHT. 
 
 FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL. 
 
 The Comfort of Visitors carefully studied. Board on Low 
 Terms during the Winter Months. 
 
 A CREUZNACH. 
 
 HOTEL DE HOLLANDE. 
 
 THIS FIRST-CLASS HOTEL offers superior accommodation at very Moderate Charges 
 1. to Families and Single Gentlemen. It is situated in the finest and healthiest part of 
 the town, and is surrounded by a beautiful Garden. It is fitted up after the English and 
 American style. Splendid large Dining Rooms, and newly fitted-up Conversation Saloon. 
 Comfortable and well-furnished Apartments (with many Balconies). Good Baths. Excel- 
 lent Board. Arrangements can be made for a protracted stay. Pension »n Winter. 
 
 FOLTYNSKI & WOOG, Proprietors. 
 
 CREUZNACH (BAD). 
 
 PRIVATE HOTEL BAUM. 
 
 F IRST-CLASS Family Hotel, best situated. Great cleanliness. Com- 
 fortable Baths. Beautiful Garden. Excellent Cooking, Choice Wines. 
 Pension moderate charges. Recommended. 
 
 JEAN BAPTISTE BAUM, Proprietor. 
 
 CREUZNACH (BAD). 
 
 HOTEL KAUTZENBERG. 
 
 T HIS First-Class Hotel is beautifully situated, close to the Kurhaus, adjoining the Prome- 
 nade. Large Garden. Baths in the Hotel. The Table d’H6te and Wines of this Hotel 
 are reputed the best in Creuznach. Moderate Charges. 
 
 F. EISENREICH, Proprietor. 
 
 ~~~Di JON. — 
 
 p BAND HOTEL DE BOURGOGNE. Near the Station. 
 
 Well situated in an open Square. Enlarged in 1880. Apartments 
 for Families. Table d’Hote. Carriages. English Newspapers. Omni- 
 buses to meet all Trains. 
 
 Wines Exported by the Proprietor. 
 
26 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May, 
 
 DIEPPE. 
 
 HOTEL ROYAL, 
 
 Facing the Beach, close to the Bathing Establishment and the Parade, 
 TT IS ONE OP THE MOST PLEASANTLY SITUATED HOTELS 
 
 -I- IN DIEPPE, commanding a beautiful and extensive View of the Sea. Families and 
 Gentlemen visiting Dieppe will find at this Establishment elegant Large and Small Apart- 
 ments, and the best of accommodation, at very reasonable prices. Large Reading Room, 
 with French and English Newspapers. The Refreshments, &c., are of the best quality. In 
 fact, this Hotel fully bears out and deserves the favourable opinion expressed of it in 
 Murray's and other Guide Books. 
 
 LARSONNEUX, Proprietor. 
 
 Table d’Hdte and Private Dinners. *** This Hotel is open all the Tear. 
 
 DIJON. 
 
 HOTEL DE LA CLOCHE. 
 
 Mr. GOISSET, Proprietor. 
 
 Q UITE near the Railway Station, at the entrance of the 
 Town. First-Class House of old reputation. Enlarged in 1870. 
 Apartments for Families. Carriages for drives. Table d'Hote and 
 Service in private. Reading Room. Smoking Room. English spoken. 
 
 Exportation of Burgundy Wines. 
 
 GRAND HdTEL GOISSET will he Open in 1883. 
 
 DIJON. 
 
 HOTEL DU JURA. 
 
 M. LOUIS MERCIER, Proprietor. 
 
 T'HIS Hotel is the nearest to the Railway Station, the Cathe- 
 
 J- dral, and the Public Garden Saloons. Apartments and Rooms for Families. 
 Table d’Hote. Private Carriages for hire by the hour. English Newspapers. 
 Omnibus to carry passengers to and from each train. English spoken. The 
 greatest attention is paid to English visitors. Bureau de Change in the Hotel. 
 Considerably enlarged and newly furnished, 1875. The best Burgundy Wines 
 shipped at wholesale prices. 
 
 DINARD, ILLE ET VILAINE (Brittany). 
 
 GRAND HOTEiT DU CASINO. 
 
 I 1 HIS First-Class Hotel is the nearest to the Casino and 
 Bathing Establishment. Splendid View from the Terrace 
 adjoining the Garden of the Hotel. Private Dining Saloons 
 and Smoking Rooms. Table d’Hote at 11 o’clock a.m. and 
 6 o’clock p.m. Terms from 12 to 15 francs per day. Excellent 
 Cooking. Choice Wines. English Newspapers. Stabling. 
 
 L. BIARDOT, Proprietor. BOUDIN FILS, Successeur. 
 
1882. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 27 
 
 DRESDEN. 
 
 VICTORIA HOTEL. 
 
 T HIS First-rate Establishment, situated near the great public 
 Promenade, and five minutes from the Central Station for 
 Prague, Vienna, Berlin, Munich, Frankfort, combines comfort 
 with elegance, and has the advantage of possessing a spacious 
 and beautiful Garden. 
 
 TWO SUPERIOR TABLES D’HOTE DAILY. 
 
 PRIVATE DINNERS AT ANY HOUR. 
 
 During the Winter , Board and Lodging at very moderate rates . 
 
 Mr. Weiss has an extensive Stock of the best Bhenish, 
 Bordeaux , Burgundy , and Spanish Wines , and will be most 
 happy to execute Orders at Wholesale Prices. 
 
 DRESDEN. 
 
 HOTEL BELLEVUE. 
 
 Situated on the river Elbe, facing the new Opera, the Gal- 
 leries, the Green Vaults, Cathedral, and Bruhl’s Terrace. 
 Well-known First-Class Establishment, with 150 Rooms. 
 Families desirous of taking Apartments for the Winter can 
 make arrangements at very moderate prices. 
 
 LOUIS FEISTEL, Manager. 
 
 DRESDEN. 
 
 WEBER’S HOTEL. 
 
 E NGLISH and American visitors desiring a comfortable resi- 
 dence are respectfully invited to give this Hotel a trial. 
 It is situated in a delightful part of the city, overlooking the 
 Promenades, Gardens, and Galleries. Handsome Dining Room. 
 Reading Room well furnished with American, French, and 
 English Newspapers. During the Winter, pension at very 
 advantageous terms. 
 
 BERNHARD WEBER, Proprietor. 
 
28 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May, 
 
 DOVER. 
 
 ESPLANADE HOTEL. 
 
 F OR Families, Gentlemen, and Tourists. 
 
 Pleasantly situated on the Marine 
 Promenade, and near the Railway Stations 
 and Steam-Packets. Well-appointed General 
 Coffee Rooms. W. CESSFORD. 
 
 EGGISCHHORN, VALAIS. 
 
 HOTEL JUNGFRAU. 
 
 Open 1st June. Beautiful Climate. 
 Splendid view. Pension. 
 
 CATHREIN, Proprietor. 
 
 a EMS ’ 
 
 DARMSTADT HOTEL AND PENSION. 
 rpHIS FIKST-CLASS HOUSE, of an old reputation, is the nearest to 
 
 -L the Mineral Springs and Baths and the Imperial residence. Splendid situation, with 
 every comfort and Moderate Charges. The Milk used in the Hotel is supplied from the 
 Proprietor’s own farm, where there are also good stables. 
 
 TH. BIEGEN, Proprietor. 
 
 ENGELBERG. 
 
 THE VALLEY OF ENGELBERG (3200 ft. high) with its 
 
 KURHAUS AND HOTEL SONNENBERG, 
 
 rpHE property of Mr. H. HUG. Summer stay unrivalled by its grand 
 J- Alpine scenery, as well as by the curative efficacy of the climate against lung and chest 
 diseases, coughs, nervous ailments, &c., &c. Clear bracing air, equable temperature. Recom- 
 mended by the highest medical authorities. The HOTEL SONNENBERG in the finest 
 and healthiest situation facing the Titlis and the Glaciers is one of the most comfortable 
 and best managed hotels in Switzerland. Lawn Tennis Ground. Excellent and central 
 place for sketching, botanising, and the most varied and interesting excursions. The 
 ascent of the Titlis is best made from here. Shady Woods. Vapour and Shower Baths. 
 Waterspriug 5° R. ; 200 Rooms ; Pension from 7 fr. a day upwards. Because of its so sheltered 
 situation specially adapted for a stay in May and June. Resident English Physician. 
 English Divine Service. 
 
 ENGELBERG, SWITZERLAND. 
 
 KURHAUS HOTEL ET PENSION TITLIS. 
 
 F IRST-CLASS HOTEL in the best situation of the valley, in the 
 middle of an extensive garden. It possesses the best recommenda- 
 tions of English Families. 
 
 ENGLISH AND AMERICAN NEWSPAPERS. 
 
 New English Chapel in the Garden of the Hotel . 
 
 ED. OATTANI, Proprietor. 
 
 KOYAL CL A RENCE HOTEL, 
 
 WITH FULL VIEW OF THE GRAND OLD CATHEDRAL. 
 
 Patronised by the best Families. 
 
 BILLIARD ROOM. MODERN TARIFF. 
 
 J. H. STANBURY, Proprietor. 
 
 F RANKFORT O. IVL 
 
 P. A. TACCHI’S SUCCESSORS, 
 
 ZEU, No. 44. 
 
 BOHEMIAN FANCY GLASS AND CRYSTAL WAREHOUSE. 
 
 Chandeliers for Gas and Candles in Glass and Brass. 
 
 Correspondent in England, Mr. LOUIS HENLfi, 3, Budge Row, Cannon St., London, E.C. 
 
1882. 
 
 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 29 
 
 HOTEL PENSION* BELLEVUE. 
 
 Well-kept Establishment, in the midst of a large well-shaded Garden. 
 
 50 Bed Rooms. Pension 5 f . a day. 
 
 J. SUTTERLIN, Proprietor. 
 
 ~ GENEVA.”™" ~~~ 
 
 HOTEL DES BERGUES. 
 
 Mme. Vve. FKEBEHIO WACHTER, Proprietress. 
 
 The Hotel, one of the largest in Geneva, is in a delightful situation — near the English 
 Church and the General Railway Station ; it has an uninterrupted view of Mont Blanc and 
 the Alps. A Lift of superior construction ; large Conservatory. Families or Single Gentle- 
 men will find every accommodation and comfort which a first-class Hotel can afford. Table 
 d’Hote at 6 o’clock. Excellent Baths in the Hotel. 
 
 I “geneva. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL BEAU RIVAGE. 
 
 THE LABGEST AND BEST IN GENEVA. 
 
 MAYER & KUNZ, Proprietors. 
 
 GENOA. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL DE G&NES. 
 
 Messrs. L. BONERA AND BROTHERS. 
 
 PLACE CARLO FELICE, the most beautiful situation in the City. 
 
 (FULL SOUTH.) 
 
 This Hotel, formerly the Palazzo Marchese Spinola, was newly opened and entirely 
 re-furnished about two years ago. Its situation, opposite the celebrated Theatre Carlo 
 Felice, on the Piazza de Ferrari, the healthiest part of the town, in the vicinity of the 
 English Church, the Telegraph, the Post Office, the principal Public Buildings, and near 
 all the curiosities in the town ; free from the noise of the Railway and the Harbour. Large 
 and small Apartments. Table d’Hote. Restaurant. Reading and Smoking Saloon. Bath 
 Rooms. Omnibus from the Hotel meets every Train. Moderate Charges. 
 
 GENOA. 
 
 HOTEL LONDRES 
 ET PENSION ANGLAISE. 
 
 The nearest to the Central Station. 
 First Class. Full South. 
 Moderate Prices. 
 
 NERVI. 
 
 WINTER RENDEZVOUS, SHELTERED 
 FROM THE N., N.E., and N.W. 
 WINDS BY MOUNTAINS. 
 
 HOTEL and PENSION VICTORIA. 
 
 GOOD , WITH LARGE GARDEN. 
 
 . GMUNDEN, AUSTRIA. 
 
 HOTEL BELLE VTJJE. 
 
 F ACING the Steamboat landing-place. Comfortable First - Class 
 
 Hotel. Highly recommended. Mr. BRACHER, the Proprietor, has been in England 
 and America, and knows the wants of English and American Travellers. Charges mode- 
 rate. Omnibus at the Station. Baths in the Hotel. 
 
 . GOTHA. 
 
 HOTEL DEUTSCHER HOE 
 
 Proprietor, L. STAEBLER. 
 
 F IRST-RATE HOTEL, situated close to the Promenades and near 
 the Railway Station; combines comfort with elegance. Baths in the House. 
 Carriages. 
 
30 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May, 
 
 A GRASSE. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL DE GRASSE, AM, 
 
 TpAMILY HOTEL, 38 minutes from Cannes. First-Class Hotel, 
 
 J- situated on the Boulevard Thiers, full South. Large Garden. Splendid view of the 
 Sea. Large and small Apartments, comfortably furnished. Table d’Hote, Reading, Billiard, 
 Smoking, and Bath Rooms. Omnibus meets every train. — M. TOURNAIRE, Manager , 
 
 Formerly Proprietor of the Hotel Helve tique, Nice. 
 
 _________ 
 
 HOTEL MONNET. 
 
 T HIS splendidly-situated First-Class Hotel, which is the largest in the 
 Town, and enjoys the well-merited favour of Families and Tourists, 
 has been enlarged and Newly Furnished. The Apartments, large and 
 small, combine elegance and comfort, and every attention has been paid 
 to make this one of the best Provincial Hotels. Public and Private 
 Drawing-rooms ; English and French Papers. Table d’Hote at 11 and 6. 
 Private Dinners at any hour. Excellent Cuisine. Moderate Charges. 
 The Omnibuses of the Hotel meet all Trains. 
 
 L. THILLAT, Proprietor. 
 
 First-Class Carriages can be had at the Hotel for Excursions to the 
 Grande Chartreuse, Uriage, and all places of interest amongst the Alps 
 of Dauphine. 
 
 URIAGE- LES- BAINS. 
 
 HOTEL RESTAURANT, MONNET. 
 
 Founded in 1846. English Visitors will find every comfort and luxury 
 in this First-Class Establishment. Private Rooms for Families. Excellent 
 Cuisine and Wines. Table d’Hote, 11 and 6. Carriages and Horses can 
 be had in the Hotel for Excursions and Promenades. 
 
 A HAMBURG. 
 
 HOTEL DE L’EUROPE. 
 
 O LD -RENOWNED FIRST-CLASS HOUSE, patronised by the 
 
 Imperial and Royal Families. Delightful situation, overlooking the Alster. 180 
 elegantly furnished Rooms aod Apartments. Bath, Reading, and Smoking Rooms. Table 
 d’Hote. Hydraulic Lifts. Special arrangements made at a longer stay. 
 
 BRETTSCHNEIDER and BANDLI, Proprietors. 
 
 A HAMBURG. 
 
 HOTEL ST. PETERSBURG. 
 
 O LD-RENOWNED FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL, situated on the Alster Bassin, 
 the most fashionable quarter of the town. Superior comfort and accommodation. 
 Table dHote and Restaurant a la carte. Resplendent Electric Light throughout. New 
 Safety Lift. Telephone. 
 
 Gr. REUTER. Proprietor. 
 
 2 vols., royal 4to. 42s. each. 
 
 ETCHINGS PROM THE LOIRE AND THE 
 MOSEL. 
 
 A Series of Forty Plates, with Descriptive Letterpress. 
 
 By EKNEST GEORGE. 
 
 JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 
 
1882. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 31 
 
 HANOVER. 
 
 HOTEL ROYAL. 
 
 (FIBST-CLASS HOTEL.) 
 
 S ITUATED in the best part of the City, and opposite the General Railway Station. 
 
 Large and small Apartments and Single Bed-rooms for Gentlemen. Every comfort. 
 Baths in the Hotel. MODERATE CHARGES. 
 
 CHRIST BROS., Proprietors. 
 
 HANOVER. 
 
 HOTEL DE RUSSIE. 
 
 rnHIS FIRST-CLASS HOTEL is beautifully situated opposite the 
 
 JL Railway Station and Post Office, and in the healthiest part of the City, and in the 
 centre of large gardens. The Proprietor and Proprietress have been for several years in 
 England and France, and make the comfort of English and American Families their special 
 study. The prices are very moderate, and the servants are trained to be civil and obliging 
 to visitors, and not to accept fees. C. FREIBERG, Proprietor. 
 
 HANOVER. 
 
 CONTINENTAL HOTEL. 
 
 ■VTEW FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, 150 Rooms, with every modern 
 
 -1A comfort. Lifts, &c. Moderate Charges. 
 
 F. RIECHELMANN, Proprietor. 
 
 HARROGATE. 
 
 THE GRANBY.” 
 
 F IRST-CLASS Family Hotel, facing the Stray. Every accommodation 
 for Visitors and Tourists. Carriages to Wells and Baths every morning free of 
 charge. Good Stabling. Carriages on Hire. 
 
 W. H. MILNER, Proprietor. 
 
 HAVRE. 
 
 HOTEL D’ANGLETERRE. 
 
 RUE DE PARIS, 124-126. 
 
 Y^XCEEDINGLY well-situated in the best quarter of the 
 Town, is recommended for its Comfort and Moderate Charges. 
 Apartments for Families ; Music and Conversation Saloons. Restaurant 
 a la Carte. Rooms from 2 to 5 francs. Breakfast, 2 francs. Dinners 
 at Table d’Hote, 3 francs. Board and Lodging from 8 to 10 francs 
 per day. Wine and Service included. English and German spoken. 
 
 GRELLE, Proprietor. 
 
 HAVRE. 
 
 HdTEL CONTINENTAL. 
 
 Quai des Etats Unis et Boulevard Francis I er - 
 
 Facing the Sea. Opening ls£ June. 
 
 F IRST-CLASS HOTEL, beautifully situated ; newly-built 
 and furnished, with every modern comfort. Large and small 
 Apartments. Rooms from 3 francs. Table d’Hote. Restaurant 
 “ a la Carte.” Saloon. Smoking Room. Charges moderate. 
 English spoken. Open all the year. 
 
 LEON BOUCHARD, Proprietor. 
 
32 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May, 
 
 HAVRE. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL DE NORMANDIE. 
 
 RUE DE PARIS. 
 
 F IRST-CLASS HOTEL, exceedingly well situated in the 
 centre of the Town. Apartments for Families. Moderate prices. 
 Music and Conversation Saloons. “ Table d'Hote.” Restaurant k la 
 Carte. English and German spoken. 
 
 M. DE SOLOS, Proprietor. 
 
 HEIDELBERG. 
 
 NECKAR HOTEL. 
 
 Opposite the Ruins of the Castle. Open May 1st. 
 OITUATED close to the Necker, fifteen minutes from the Castle and 
 O ten minutes from the Railway, near the fine old Necker Bridge, it is a new and 
 elegant First-Class Establishment, one of the most beautifully-situated Hotels in Germany. 
 The only Hotel from which a full view of the Ruins and the Panorama of the City and 
 Valley can be had. A Large Garden and Terrace close to the House. Baths. Table 
 d'Hdte. Restaurant h la carte. Pension the whole year. Omnibus at the Station. Under 
 the management of the Proprietor of the old-renowned Hotel de Hollande. 
 
 HOTEL DE HOLLANDE. 
 
 An Old-Established Hotel, beautifully situated. Excellent Cooking. 
 
 li. SPITZ, Proprietor. 
 
 I HEIDELBERG. 
 
 hotel LTJROPE. 
 
 r HE finest and best situated Hotel in Heidelberg ; kept in the very superior and elegant style 
 of a First-class Family Hotel. The beautiful extensive Gardens are for the exclusive use 
 of the Visitors. Hot and Cold Baths fitted up in a superior manner in the Hotel. Omnibus 
 at the Station. Terms strictly moderate. Railway Tickets are issued in the Hotel. 
 
 HAEFELI-GUJER, Proprietor. 
 
 A HOMBURG. 
 
 XT OTEL BELLE VUE. — First-Class Hotel, exceedingly well situated, 
 11 opposite the Park of the Kursaal, and close to the Springs. Families, and Single 
 Gentlemen, will find this Hotel one of the most comfortable, combining excellent accommo- 
 dation with cleanliness and moderate Charges. Best French and English Cooking. Excellent 
 Wines. Hare and Partridge Shooting free. 
 
 H. ELLENBERGER, Proprietor. 
 
 A HOMBURG. 
 
 DOYAL VICTORIA HOTEL.— Patronised by H.R.H. the Prince of 
 
 Wales and several other Royal Personages. Highest Position. First-Class Hotel, 
 close to the Springs and the Kursial, with fine view of the Taunus Mountains. Quiet 
 Apartments. At the early and later part of the S ason arrangements are made on very 
 reasonable terms. Best Stag and Roebuck Shooting, as well as Trout Fishing, free for 
 the guests of the Hotel. 
 
 GUSTAVE WEIGAND, Proprietor. 
 
 HYERES (VAR). 
 
 GRAND HOTEL D’ORIENT. 
 
 T HIS Hotel is situated in the most salubrious and sheltered part of 
 Hyeres, and is the Resort of the elite of English and French Society. Drawing 
 Room full South. Billiards. 
 
 ENGLISH NEWSPAPERS. 
 
1882. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 33 
 
 HEIDELBERG. — Hotel Prince diaries. 
 
 A FIRST-CLASS HOTEL. 
 
 ( lOAoii^JtiAAbLi enlarged by a Mew building, oontaius a splendid dining boom, breaniast Bourn, aud a 
 ) fine Beading Bootn. Ten Balconies. This Hotel, patronised by their Highnesses the Prince of Wales 
 and Prince Alfred, is the largest in the Town, and thoroughly Benovated and Newly Furnished. Best 
 Cookery. Good Wines. Charges Seasonable. Moderate Arrangements made by the Week. The Hotel is 
 situated in an open Square, eight minutes’ walk from the celebrated Cattle, with the finest view of the ruins 
 from all the balconies aud nearly all the windows ; two minutes’ walk to the Necker Bridge. Close to the 
 Nurnburg and Wurzburg Bailway Station. Omnibus and Hotel Porter meet the Train. From this Hotel 
 there are three different roads leading to the Castle. Firstly, footpath over the Kurzen Buckel ; steps, five 
 minutes; sunny. Secondly, by the Burgweg ; eight minutes walk; shady; the finest. Thirdly, Neuer 
 Schlossweg ; by carriage ; gentle ascent. The Proprietors export Wines to England. 
 
 *** Bailway Tickets can be obtained at the Bureau of the Hotel, and Luggage booked to all Stations. 
 
 SOMMER & ELIjMER, Proprietors. 
 
 HYERES. 
 
 HOTEL DE L’ERMITAGE. 
 
 B EAUTIFULLY situated in the Pine Forest, well 
 
 sheltered, and commanding magnificent view of the Mediterranean 
 and the lies of Hyeres. Drawing and Dining Kooms, full South. 
 Billiards. Full-sized Lawn Tennis Grounds] English management. 
 Divine Service in the Hotel. 
 
 OMNIBUS TO AND FROM ALL TRAINS. 
 
 A, PEYRON, Proprietor. 
 
 HYERES-LES-PALMIERS- 
 
 GRAND HOTEL DES ILES D’OR. 
 
 T'HIS FIEST-CLASS HOTEL, the largest in the Town, 
 
 -L is situated in the middle of a most beautiful Garden. Lawn Tennis 
 Ground in front of the Hotel. Dining and Drawing Kooms full South, 
 containing a Collection of Pictures by a celebrated French artist. 
 Smoking Room, Billiards, and Baths. 
 
 Pension from 10 bancs a day and upwards. 
 
 E. WEBER, Proprietor. 
 
 D 
 
34 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May, 
 
 ILFRACOMBE. 
 
 ROYAL CLARENCE 
 
 FAMILY AND COMMERCIAL HOTEL. 
 
 (Old Established.) 
 
 H AS recently been rebuilt with extra Bed Room accommodation and 
 Ladies’ Drawing Boom. Commodious Coffee Room. Handsome Commercial Room 
 and Good Stock Room. Billiards. 
 
 Omnibus meets every Train. 
 
 TARIFF ON APPLICATION. SPECIAL TERMS FOR BOARDING. 
 
 RICHARD LAKE, Proprietor. 
 
 TLFRACOMBE HOTEL. “ A Model of Sanitary Excellence.”— The 
 Ilfracombe Hotel is on the verge of the Atlantic, in its own picturesque Grounds of 
 Five Acres, with Tennis Lawn, &c. it contains 250 Rooms. The Charges are fixed and 
 moderate, and there is a Table d’Hote Daily. Every information will be afforded by the 
 Manager, Ilfracombe, North Devon. Tourist Tickets to Ilfracombe for Two Months are 
 issued at all principal Stations. There is attached to the Hotel one of the largest Sea Water 
 Swimming Baths in England ; also Hot and Cold Sea Water Private Baths. 
 
 THE ROYAL BRITANNIA HOTEL, ILFRACOMBE. — Good Public Rooms. 
 Moderate Terms. Address — THE MANAGER. 
 
 [INNSBRUCK. 
 
 TT OTEL DU TYROL. — First-Class Hotel, in a beautiful position near 
 XI the Station and the new Steam Batbs, with magnificent Views of the Valley of the 
 Inn and the Mountains. Comfortable Apartments, Reading, Smoking, Bath Rooms, &c., 
 with every modern convenience. Arrangement for protracted stay. Special terms for 
 sojourn in winter. Climate exceedingly healthy; air bracing. In Winter Stairs and Pass- 
 ages warmed. From the top of the hotel a fine bird’s-eye view of the Town and Valleys. 
 Hotel enlarged. Splendid Garden lately acquired. CARL LANDSEE. 
 
 INNSBRUCK. ’ _ ~ 
 
 HOTEL HE L’EUROPE. 
 
 K EPT by Mr. J. REINHART. —A new and well-furnished First-Class Hotel, conveniently 
 situated, just facing the splendid valley of the Inn, opposite the Railway Station. 
 Excellent Table d’lldte and private Dinners. Arrangements made at very reasonable prices. 
 Well-furnished Apartments. English Newspapers taken in. Splendid situation, command- 
 ing a fine View of the Mountains. English spoken. 
 
1882. 
 
 M lilt KAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 35 
 
 INTERLAKEN. 
 
 HOTEL - PENSION, 
 
 JUNGFRAU. 
 
 F. SEILER-STERCHI, Proprietor. 
 
 r FHIS Establishment, with two Branch Houses, is situated 
 in the centre of the Hoheweg, and enjoys a splendid view of the 
 J ungfrau and the entire range of the Alps. It recommends itself for its 
 delightful position, as well as for its comfortable accommodation. 
 
 TABLE D’HOTE AT 2 AND 6.30 O’CLOCK. 
 
 DINNERS A LA CARTE. 
 
 CARRIAGES, GUIDES, AND HORSES FOR 
 MOUNTAIN EXCURSIONS. 
 
 OMNIBUS WAITING AT ALL THE STATIONS. 
 
 INTERLACKEN. 
 
 J. GROSSMANN, 
 
 Sculptor in Wood, and Manufacturer of Swiss 
 Wood Models and Ornaments. 
 
 Carved and Inlaid Furniture Manufactured to any Design , 
 
 AT INTJE RLA€K£N. 
 
 H IS WAREHOUSE is situated between the Belvedere Hotel and Sc’nweizerbof, where 
 he keeps the largest and best assortment of the above objects to be found in Switzer- 
 land. He undertakes to forward Goods to England and elsewhere. 
 
 Correspondents in England, Messrs. J. & R. McCracken, 38 , Queen Street, Cannon 
 Street, E.C., London. 
 
 INTERLAKEN. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL BEAU R1VAGE. 
 
 Recently built in a Splendid Position. 
 EVERY LUXURY AND COMFORT. 
 
 H. KEGLI, Proprietor. 
 
 " INTERLAKEN. 
 
 SCI! WEIZERHOF— HOTEL SUISSE. 
 
 J. & E. STETJBIN & WIETH, Proprietors. 
 
 THIS First-Clasa Family Hotel of old reputation is situated in the best 
 position of the Kdheweg, near the Kursaal Gardens. Every modern comfort. 
 
 * d~2 
 
36 
 
 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May, 
 
 INTERLAKEN. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL DES ALPES 
 
 Is surrounded by large shady Gardens and Grounds, contains large Dining and Drawing- 
 Rooms, fine Reading, Billiard and Smoking-Rooms, commanding a full view of the Glaciers. 
 Warm and Cold Baths. Lawn Tennis. Moderate Prices. 
 
 MA.URER - KNECHTE NHOFER, Proprietor. 
 
 KARLSRUHE. 
 
 HOTEL GERMANIA. 
 
 S ITUATED a few minutes from the Railway Station, on the Public Gardens. This 
 First-Class Hotel is furnished with every modern comfort. 100 Room) and Suites of 
 Apartments. Bed an 1 attendance from 2 Ma^ks. The whole of the house heated so as to 
 ensure comfort to Winter Visitors, for whom also Special Arrangements are made. Baths. 
 Lift. Omnibuses at the Station. JOSSP LEEES, Proprietor. 
 
 KiSSINGEN. 
 
 HOTEL SANNER. 
 
 ICIEST-CLASS Family Hotel, of good reputation for its 
 JL comfort, cleanliness, and good Cuisine. Beautiful situation with open 
 views. Well furnished large and small Apartments. Three Minutes from 
 the Kurhaus, Springs, and Garden. The only Hotel in Kissingen fitted 
 up with the latest improved Sanitary Water appliances. 
 
 CHARGES STRICTLY MODERATE. 
 
 SCHMIDT, Proprietor. 
 
 KISSINGEN. 
 
 ROYAL CURHAUS HOTEL. 
 
 ABGEST and best situated First-Class Hotel in town. 
 160 Bed Booms with 30 Sitting Booms, all with a fine 
 open view. Pension in the early and later part of the Season. 
 The only Hotel with Mineral Bath in tlie House. 
 
 F. JOS. MULLER, Manager. 
 
 KISSINGEN. 
 
 HOTEL D’ANGLETERRE. 
 
 r PHIS First-Class Hotel is situated three minutes from the Springs and 
 5 the Kurgarden. Excellent Table d’Hote. Pension from 7 Marks each Person. 
 Omnibus at every Train. 
 
 L. MISMER, Proprietor. 
 
 L 
 
 t Second Edition, with Portrait and Illustrations. 2 vols. 8vo. 21s. 
 
 THE LIFE AND TIMES OF TITIAN. With some 
 
 Account of his Fam’ly, chiefly from new and unpublished Records. 
 By J. A. Crowe and G. B. Cavalcaselle. 
 
 “No such gap has existed in the history of art as that which is filled by the present 
 volumes. Everything on the subject is now superseded. We cannot make an abstract of 
 ■line hundred pages; suffice it to repeat that the book is by far the most import an f con tri- 
 . outiou.maide in our time to the history of art .’’—ALhenceum. 
 
 JQHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 
 
1882. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 37 
 
 KILLARNEY. 
 
 LAKES OF KILLARNEY, 
 
 By Her Most Gracious Majesty's Special Permission . 
 
 THE ROYAL VICTORIA HOTEL, 
 
 Pa'ronized by H.R.H. THE PRINCE OF WALES; by H.R.H. PRINCE ARTHUR, 
 ami by the Royal Families of France and Belgium, &c. 
 
 ^THIS HOTEL is situated on the Lower Lake, close to the water’s edge, within 
 -L ten minutes’ drive of the Railway Station, and a short distance from the far-famed Gap of 
 Dunloe. It is lighted with gas made on the premises ; and is the Largest Hotel in the 
 district. A magnificent Coffee-room, a public Drawing-room for Ladies and Families, 
 Billiard and Smoking-rooms, and several suites of Private Apartments facing the Lake, 
 have been recently added. 
 
 TABLE D’HOTE DURING THE SEASON. 
 
 Cars, Carriages, Boats, Ponies, and Guides at fixed moderate charges. 
 Drivers, Boatmen, and Guides are paid by the Proprietor, and are not allowed to solicit 
 gratuities. The Hotel Omnibus and Porters attend the Trains. 
 
 THERE IS A POSTAL TELEGRAPH OFFICE IN THE HOUSE. 
 
 Boarding Terms from October to June, inclusive. 
 
 It is necessary to inform Tourists that the Railway Company, Proprietors of the Railway 
 Hotel in the Town, send upon the platform, as routers for their Hotel , the Porters, Car-drivers, 
 Boatmen, and Guides in their employment, and exclude the servants of the Hotels on the 
 Lake, who will, however, be found in waiting at the Station-door. 
 
 JOHN O’LEAHY, Proprietor. 
 
 LAUSANNE -OUCHY. 
 
 HOTEL BEAU RIVAGE. 
 
 Director, A. MARTIN-KUEENACHT. 
 
 'THIS splendid Establishment, constructed on a grand scale, 
 is situated on one of the most beautiful spots on the shore 
 of the Lake of Geneva, surrounded by an English Park and 
 Garden. It is near the Steamboat Landing and the English 
 Church. 
 
 WINTER PEN SIOW 
 
 FROM OCTOBER UNTIL MARCH , AT VERY MODERATE 
 PRICES . 
 
 Constant communication with the City and Railway Station 
 
 by Omnibus. 
 
 Baths , Telegraph , and Post Office in the Hotel . 
 
38 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May, 
 
 LAUSANNE. 
 
 HOTEL GIBBON. 
 
 F IRST-CLASS Hotel, situated in the finest part of the town, and most 
 highly recommended. Splendid view of the Lake. Large Terrace and Garden. 
 Pension during Winter. RITTER-ROCHAT, Proprietor. 
 
 LAUSANNE. 
 
 HOTEL PENSION VICTORIA. 
 
 B EAUTIFUL situation, large garden. Most excellent house 
 
 and reasonable terms. LS. DESPLAND, Proprietor. 
 
 A COMPANION TO BRADSHAW. 
 Handbook for England and 
 Wales. 
 
 Describing the History and Objects of 
 Interest of each Locality, as well as the 
 Means of Access, Hotels, Lodgings, &c. 
 Alphabetically arranged for the use of 
 Travellers. With an Outline Map. Post 
 Svo. 105. 
 
 “ An admirably arranged epitome of 
 useful information, giving not merely all 
 necessary details of hotels, trade, &c., but a 
 condensed history of remarkable places in 
 the neighbourhood of each town, and sug- 
 gestive skeleton tours .” — The World. 
 
 JOHN MURRAY, Albemarle Street. 
 
 LAUSANNE. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL DE RICHEMONT. 
 
 F INEST and best situated quiet First-Class 
 Hotel of Lausanne. Amongst large 
 gardens. In an exceedingly beautiful and 
 healthy position. Highly recommended. 
 Moderate Charges. Pension. 
 
 RITTER- WOLBOLD. 
 
 LEAMINGTON. 
 
 The Clarendon Family and 
 Private Hotel. 
 
 S ITUATED In the highest part of the 
 Town. Highly recommended by the 
 best English and American Families, for 
 Comfort and Moderate Charges. Carriages. 
 
 LISBON. 
 
 BRAGANZA HOTEL. 
 
 rpHIS First-Class well-known Family Hotel, lately renovated by the 
 -L Royal House of Braganza, and fitted up by the new Proprietor, Victor C. Sassetti, 
 highly recommendable for its large, airy, and comfortable Apartments, commanding the 
 most extensive and picturesque views of the River Tagus, as well as of Lisbon. Superior 
 Cuisine, and carefully- selected Wines. Under the same Management, within 21 hours’ 
 drive, VICTOR’S HOTEL, CINTRA. 
 
 RAMBLES AMONG THE HILLS IN THE PEAK 
 of DERBYSHIRE and the SOUTH DOWNS. 
 
 By LOUIS J. JENNINGS, Author of “ Field Paths and Green Lanes.” 
 With Illustrations. Post Svo. 12s. 
 
 JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 
 
 Crown 8vo., cloth, 6s. 
 
 THE COPTIC MORNING SERVICE FOR THE 
 LORD’S DAY. 
 
 Translated into English by JOHN, MARQUESS OF BUTE, K.T. With the 
 Original Coptic of those parts said aloud. 
 
 London: J. MASTERS & CO., 78, New Bond Street. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK FOR PORTUGAL: 
 
 Lisbon, Oporto, Cintra, Mafra, &c. Map and Plan. Po3t 8vo. 12s. 
 JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 
 
1882. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 39 
 
 LOCARNO 
 
 LAKE MAG-GTOBE 
 (Switzerland) 
 
 Beginning of the St. Gothard Railway and Landing Stage. 
 
 the Italian Lakes. 
 
 LAKE MAGtGIORE 
 (Switzerland) 
 
 Best intermediate Station on 
 
 GRAND HOTEL LOCARNO. 
 
 Magnificent Establishment, o-ne of the finest in Switzerland. Two Hundred Rooms. 
 Pension from H francs, including Room. English Cburch. Baths. Billards. Large Gai den. 
 
 G. SEYCHAB & Go. 
 
 LOCH LOMOND. 
 
 INVERSNAID HOTEL. 
 
 THE LANDING PLACE FOR LOCH KATRINE, THE TROSACHS, ABERFOYLE, &c. 
 Parties Boarded by the Week or Month . 
 
 ROBT. BLAIR, Proprietor. 
 
 LONDON. 
 
 A LARGE Collection of Yiews of this Neighbourhood, from 
 Is. each; also of Yiews of other parts of the United Kingdom, 
 France, Italy, Spain and Portugal, Norway, Switzerland, Egypt, Palestine, 
 India, United States, English Cathedrals, Abbeys and Castles, on approval, 
 to double amount of cash sent. Lists on receipt of stamped addressed 
 envelope to 
 
 LETTS, SON, & CO., LIMITED, 
 
 72, QUEEN VICTORIA STREET, LONDON, E.C. 
 
 TRAVELLERS’ REQUISITES. 
 
 MAPS OF EVERY COUNTRY OR PART OF THE WORLD. 
 Knapsacks and Bags, Passports and Visas, Colour Boxes, 
 Drawing Blocks, Guide Books, and Time Tables, 
 
 New Books of Roads, describing their Character. 
 
 Send Stamp for Tourist Catalogue. 
 
 LETTS, LIMITED, LONDON BRIDGE, S.E. 
 
 DIN N EFORD’S 
 MAGNESIA. 
 
 A Pure Solution. 
 
 For Acidity of the Stomach. 
 
 For Heartburn and Headache. 
 
 For Gout and Indigestion. 
 
 Safest Aperient for Delicate 
 Constitutions, Ladies, Children, and Infants. 
 
 DINNEFORD <fe CO., 180, New Bond Street, London. 
 
 Sold by Chemists throughout the World. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK- LONDON AS IT IS. 
 
 Maps and Plans. 16mo. 3s. 6ii. 
 
40 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER, 
 
 May, 
 
 LONDON, 
 
 THE 
 
 COMMERCIAL BANK OF ALEXANDRIA, LIMITED, 
 
 CAPITAL, £480,000, in Shares of £6 each. 
 Paid-up £3 per Share, say £240,000. 
 BESERVE FUND, £25,000. 
 
 Thomas S. Richardson, Esq., Chairman. 
 
 Emmanuel A. Benachi, Esq. John Constantine Clorkmi, Er-q. 
 
 Jacob Bright, Esq., M.P. Joseph Melior, p]sq. 
 
 John Cow, Esq. Constantine Georg io Zervudachi, Tsq. 
 
 Auditors — W. W. Deloitte, Esq., and John Elin, Esq. 
 
 HEAD OFFICE-2, MOOR GATE STREET, LONDON, E.C. 
 
 William Robert La Thangue, Manager. John Brooks, Secreiary. 
 
 ALEXANDRIA OFFICE.— Duke Baker, Manager. 
 
 Bankers. 
 
 BANK OF ENGLAND. LONDON AND COUNTY BANK. 
 
 Letters of Credit granted on Alexandria, and payments made in Cairo ar.d Suez. 
 
 Bills for collection encashed in any pait of Egypt, and the purchase and sale < f Egyptian 
 and all kinds of Securities undertaken. 
 
 Interest allowed at the rate of 5 per cent, per annum on money deposited for not less 
 than twelve months. 
 
 LONDON. 
 
 THE LONDON AND WESTMINSTER BANK, Limited, 
 
 X issues Circular Notes of £10, £25, and £50 each, for the use of Travellers 
 payable in the principal Towns on the Continent of Europe, also in Asia, Africa, 
 and North and South America. No expense whatever is incurred, and when cashed 
 no charge is made for commission. Letters of Credit are also granted on the same 
 places. They may be obtained at the City Office in Lotbbury, or at any of the 
 Branches, viz.: — 
 
 Westminster Branch . 1, St. James’s Square. 
 
 Bloomsbury „ . 214, High Holborn, 
 
 Southwark „ . 6, High St., Borough, 
 
 Eastern „ . 130, High St., White- 
 
 chapel. 
 
 May, 1882. 
 
 Marylebone Branch . 4, Stratford Place, 
 
 Oxford Sireet. 
 
 Temple Bar „ . 217, Strand. 
 
 Lambeth „ . 89 & 91, We stminster 
 
 Bridge Hoad. 
 
 South Ke nsingt* n Branch, 192, Brompton ltd. 
 
 I GOLD 
 MEDAL, 
 
 PARIS, 
 
 i8 7 8. 
 
 JOSEPH GILLOTT’S 
 
 STEEL PENS. 
 
 Sold by all dealers throughout the IV or Id. j 
 
1882. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 41 
 
 LONDON. 
 
 THE 
 
 GRAND HOTEL, 
 
 TRAFALGAR SQUARE, 
 LONDON. 
 
 This Magnificent Hotel occupies the Finest Site in the 
 
 CENTRE OF THE METROPOLIS, 
 
 And combines the Elegance and Luxury of the 
 most important and attractive Hotels in Europe and 
 America, with the Repose and Domestic Comfort 
 which are essentially English. 
 
 THE RECENT EXTENSIONS OF THE BUILDING 
 
 HAVE ADDED TO 
 
 THE GRAND HOTEL 
 
 UPWARDS OP A HUNDRED BED AND 
 SITTING ROOMS. 
 
 For Apartments, address THE SECRETARY. 
 
 One of the Sights and one of the Comforts of London . 
 
 THE 
 
 HOLBORN RESTAURANT, 
 
 218, HIGH HOLBORN. 
 
 THE FAMOUS TABLE D’HOTE DINNER, served at separate Tables, accompanied 
 with Selection of High-class Music by complete Orchestra. 5. 30 to 8.30 every Evening, 3s. 6 d. 
 
42 
 
 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May, 
 
 LONDON. 
 
 TOURISTS AND TRAVELLERS. 
 
 Ladies visiting the Seaside, Kinking, Driving, 
 or otherwise exposed to the scorching rays of 
 the Sun, or heated particles of dust, will find 
 
 ROWLAND’S KALYDOR 
 
 Most cooling and refreshing to the face, hands, 
 and arms ; it eradicates all Sunburn, Freckles, 
 Tan, Stings of Insects, &c. 
 
 Sizes, 4 s. 6d. and 8s. 6d. per Bottle, 
 
 ROWLAND’S ODONTO 
 
 has been proved, by its unparalleled success 
 of 50 years, to be the best, purest, and most 
 fragrant Dentifrice for procuring White and Sound Teeth, Healthy Gums, 
 and Fragrant Breatb, being perfectly free from all deleterious and acid 
 compounds, which give a temporary whiteness to the Teeth, but ultimately 
 ruin the enamel. 
 
 Sold by Chemists and Perfumers. 
 
 FOREIGN BOOKS AT FOREIGN PRICES. 
 
 Travellers may save expense and trouble by purchasing Foreign Books in 
 England at the same Prices at which they are published in Germany or France, 
 
 WILLIAMS & NOKGATE 
 
 have published the following CATALOGUES of their Stock : — 
 
 1. CLASSICAL CATALOGUE. 
 
 2. THEOLOGICAL CATA- 
 
 LOGUE. 
 
 3. FRENCH CATALOGUE. 
 
 4. GERMAN CATALOGUE. 
 
 5. EUROPEAN LINGUISTIC 
 
 CATALOGUE. 
 
 6. ORIENTAL CATALOGUE. 
 
 7. ITALIAN CATALOGUE. 
 
 8. SPANISH CATALOGUE. 
 
 9. ART-CATALOGUE. Art, Archi- 
 
 tecture, Painting, Illustrated Books. 
 
 10. NATURAL HISTORY 
 CATALOGUE. Zoology, Bo- 
 tany, Geology, Chemistry, Mathe- 
 matics, & c. 
 
 11. NATURAL SCIENCE 
 CATALOGUE. Mathematics, 
 Astronomy, Physics, Chemistry, 
 Technology. 
 
 12. MEDICAL CATALOGUE. 
 
 Medicine, Surgery, and the Depen- 
 dent Sciences. 
 
 13. SCHOOL CATALOGUE. Ele- 
 mentary Books, Maps, &c. 
 
 14. FOREIGN BOOK CIRCU- 
 LARS. New Books, and New 
 Purchases. 
 
 15. SCIENTIFIC-BOOK CIRCU- 
 LARS. New Books and Recent 
 
 Purchases. 
 
 ANY CATALOGUE SENT POST-FREE FOR ONE STAMP. 
 
 WILLIAMS & NORGATE, Importers of Foreign Books, 
 
 14 , Henrietta Street, Covent Garden, London, and 
 20 , South Frederick Street, Edinburgh. 
 
1882. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 43 
 
 NEW AND CHOICE BOOKS. 
 
 More than One Hundred and Fifty Thousand Volumes of the Best Books of 
 the Past and Present Seasons are in Circulation at 
 
 MUDIE’S SELECT LIBRARY. 
 
 The Collection exceeds One Million Volumes, comprising all the Best 
 Modern Works of every shade of opinion on all subjects of general interest. 
 
 Fresh Copies are added as the demand increases ; and an ample supply 
 is provided of all the Best Forthcoming Works as they appear. 
 
 SUBSCRIPTION, ONE GUINEA PER ANNUM 
 
 AND UPWARDS, according to the Number of Volumes required. 
 
 LONDON BOOK SOCIETY SUBSCRIPTION, TWO GUINEAS 
 PEE ANNUM. For the Free Delivery of Books in every part of London. 
 
 Thousands of Families in London and the Suburbs already subscribe to this Department of 
 the Library, and obtain a constant succession of the Best Books of the Season. 
 
 BOOK SOCIETIES SUPPLIED ON LIBERAL TERMS. 
 
 Prospectuses postage free on application. 
 
 MUDIE’S SELECT” LIBRARY (Limited), 
 30 to 34, New Oxford Street, London. 
 
 CITY OFFICE— 2, KING STREET, CHEAPSIDE. 
 
 TO CONTINENTAL TRAVELLERS. 
 
 DORRELL AND SON'S PASSPORT AGENCY, 
 
 15, CHARING CROSS, S.W. 
 
 A PASSPORT is a ready means of identification, and although it 
 
 may not be asked for in some countries, in others it is absolutely necessary, and the want of 
 it may cause great inconvenience. 
 
 British Subjects visiting the Continent will save trouble and expense by obtaining their 
 Passports through the above Agency. No personal attendance is required, and country 
 residents may have their Passports forwarded through the post. A Form of Application 
 forwarded by Post. Passports Mounted and enclosed in Cases with the name of the bearer 
 impressed in gold on the outside ; thus affording security against injury or loss, and pre- 
 venting delay in the frequent examination of the Passport when travelling. 
 
 Fee, Obtaining Passport, Is. 6 d. ; Visas, Is. each. Cases, Is. 6 d. to 5s. each. 
 
 ANDBOOK TO THE ENVIRONS OF LONDON.— 
 
 An Account, from personal visits, of every Town and Village within 
 a circle of twenty miles round the Metropolis, and the more important 
 places lying four or five miles beyond that boundary. Alphabetically 
 arranged. By James Thorne, F.S.A. With Index of Names. 2 vols. 
 Crown 8 vo. 21s. 
 
 This Work comprises the whole of Middlesex, part of Surrey, Kent, 
 Essex, and Herts, and smaller portions of Berks and Bucks. 
 
 “ Such a work as Mr. Thorne’s Handbook was called for. The ‘ call ’ has been admirably 
 responded to. Mr. Thorne’s book, although a v. ork of reference and a guide, is full of 
 pleasant gossip. We find Mr. Thorne’s book an excellent performance of a work which 
 was required .” — The Times. 
 
 JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 
 
44 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May, 
 
 LONDON. 
 
 Gold Medal, Paris, 1878. 
 
 Medals, Sydney, 1880 ; Melbourne, 1881. 
 
 FRY’S COCOA 
 
 EXTRACT 
 
 GUARANTEED PERFECTLY PURE COCOA 
 ONLY, deprived of the Superfluous Oil. 
 
 “ Strictly pure.”— W. W. Stoddabt, City and County Analyst , Bristol. 
 “ Pure Cocoa.” — Chables A. Cameron, Analyst for Dublin. 
 
 Try also FRY’S CARACAS COCOA, 
 
 “A DELICIOUS PREPARATION.” 
 
 15 PRIZE MEDALS awarded to J. S. FRY & SONS. 
 
 LUCERNE. 
 
 SGHWEIZERHOF. LUZERNERHOF. 
 
 First-Class Hotels. 
 
 HAUSER BROTHERS, Proprietors. 
 
 BEST SITUATION ON THE QUAY. 
 
 With splendid View of the Celebrated Panorama of the 
 LAKE AND MOUNTAINS. 
 
1882. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 45 
 
 LUCERNE. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL NATIONAL. 
 
 SEGESSER BROTHERS and C», Proprietors. 
 
 rnHIS large and splendid HOTEL is one of the most 
 comfortable in Europe. Situated in front of the Lake, with the 
 finest Views. Every attention paid to Tourists* 
 
 A LIFT FOR THE USE OF VISITORS. 
 
 LYNTON (NORTH DEVON). 
 
 THE VALLEY OF ROCKS HOTEL. 
 
 THIS favourite and beautifully situate First-Class Hotel is 
 
 X built on one of the finest sites in the neighbourhood, and largely patronised by the 
 best Families. It has been considerably enlarged, remodelled, and improved ; and combines, 
 with Moderate Charges, all necessary means for the accommodation and comfort of Families 
 and Tourists. The splendid Table d’Hote and Coffee Room, Reading Rooms, Ladies' 
 Drawing Room, and several Private Sitting Rooms, replete with every comfort, range in a 
 long iront, overlooking the Sea, and looking into the extensive Private Grounds of the 
 Hotel. It is most conveniently situate as a centre for visiting all the places of Interest in 
 the district. Handsomely-fitted Billiard Room open during the Season for Resi ients in the 
 Hotel only. 
 
 Post- Houses and Carriages; also the very lest kind of Modern Stabling. 
 
 JOHN CROOK, Proprietor. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL° DE L’UNIVERS. 
 
 FACING FERBACEE STATION. 
 
 FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL. 
 
 FULL SOUTH. 
 
 GROUND FLOOR APARTMENTS. 
 
 Bail way Tickets Office. 
 
 MADRID. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL DE LA PAIX. 
 
 THE ONLY FRENCH HOTEL IN MADRID. 
 
 F IRST-CLASS Hotel, Boarding-House, in the finest part of the Puerta 
 del Sol, with magnificent views and full southern aspect. Table d’Hote. Private 
 service. Large and small apartments. Bath. Reading-room, with Piano. Foreign News- 
 papers. Great comfort and cleanliness. French Cuisine. Omnibus at Railway Stations. 
 Interpreters. 
 
 Grand Hotel de Londres. Family Hotel. Annex of the Hdtel de la Paix, under 
 the same management. Moderate Prices. 
 
 T. CAPDEVIELLE & Co., 
 
 Proprietors of both Houses. 
 
46 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May, 
 
 MARIENBAD (BOHEMIA). 
 
 HOTEL KLINGER. 
 
 Proprietor, J. D. EALBMAYE. 
 
 XpIEST and LARGEST HOTEL in this Watering Place. 
 
 1 Preferred on account of its charming situation at the corner of the Pro- 
 menade and Park, and has a beautiful View. Newly and elegantly furnished with 
 every comfort and in noble style, containing, with the Dependance, 270 Kooms, 
 Saloons, &c. English spoken in the Hotel. 
 
 Carriages in the Hotel. Omnibus to the Bailway Station . 
 
 MAYENCE. 
 
 First- Class Hotels . 
 
 HOTEL DU RHIN. 
 HOTEL DE HOLLANDE. 
 HOTEL D’ANGLETERRE. 
 
 Best Second-Class Hotel. 
 
 HOTEL DE LA CARPE. 
 
 MENTONE. (Alpes Maritimes.) 
 
 HOTEL DES ANGLAIS. 
 
 'THIS well-known Establishment has been newly improved, 
 J- and combines every modern comfort with moderate and fixed prices. 
 Situated in the East Bay, near the favourite residence of Her Majesty 
 Queen Victoria. 
 
 Messrs. CLERICY BROTHERS. 
 
 MENTONE. 
 
 ISNARD’S 
 
 HOTEL DE BELLE VUE. 
 
 T HIS well-known ESTABLISHMENT is beautifully situated in the 
 best quarter of the Town, with a vast Garden, and affords every English comfort. 
 
1882 . 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 47 
 
 MENTONE. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL WESTMINSTER. 
 
 Central First-Class Establishment. 
 
 B UILT and furnished with taste and according to the latest 
 improvements. In a Southern aspect overlooking the Sea, and a 
 beautiful Garden giving access to the public “Promenade du Midi.” 
 Fine Public Saloon and Reading Room. Billiard and Smoking Rooms. 
 
 Patronised especially by English. Moderate Prices. 
 ENGLISH AND SEVERAL FOREIGN LANGUAGES SPOKEN. 
 
 OMNIBUS TO AND FEOM THE RAILWAY STATION. 
 
 METZ. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL DE L’EUROPE. 
 
 THE largest and most beautiful Hotel in Lorraine, patronised by the 
 most Aristocratic Families. This splendid Establishment is recommended lor its 
 comfort and Moderate Charges. English Newspapers. 
 
 M I LAN . 
 
 GRAND HOTEL DE MILAN. 
 
 200 Rooms and Saloons, with every comfort and requirements 
 of the present day. 
 
 Pension in the Winter Months. 
 
 V THE ONLY HOUSE AT MILAN WHICH HAS A HYDRAULIC LIFT. 
 
 J. SPATZ-WtlRMS. 
 
 MILAN. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL, CONTINENTAL. 
 
 7, VIA MANZONI. 
 
 JpIRST-CLASS HOTEL, containing 200 Rooms, and 
 Salons. The nearest to the Cathedral, Post Office, and Theatre de 
 la Scala. Full South aspect. 
 
 Hydraulic Lift, with Safety Apparatus. 
 
 MARINI, LEGNANI, & CO. 
 
 MILAN. 
 
 HOTEL BISCIONE. 
 
 A HIGHLY recommended Hotel and Pension, warmed and con- 
 veniently situated, overlooking the Square and Cathedral. First-rate Restaurant. 
 Table d'Hote. Piano. Telephone. Omnibus to and from all Trains. Fixed moderate 
 prices. Bokrello, Propr. The same Proprietor as Hotel Aigle Noir and Paix at Bologna. 
 
48 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, 
 
 M I LAN. 
 
 HOTEL DE LA GRANDE BRETAGNE 
 
 E REICHMANN. 
 
 Proprietor, J. LEGNAWI. 
 
 T HE House is situated in the centre of the Town, near the Cathedral 
 and all other Places of interest. Good Table d’Hote. The Times , &c. 
 Several Languages spoken. The House is only two Storeys high. Five 
 minutes’ walk from the English Church. 
 
 Omnibus at the Station to meet all Trains. 
 
 ~M0FFAT HYDROPATHIC E8TABLI8HMENT~ANd” 
 SANATORIUM, DUMFRIESSHIRE, N.B. 
 
 Resident Physician, Dr. R. THOMSON FORBES. 
 rpHIS Establishment, which occupies a beautiful situation on the western slope of the 
 d- beautifully wooded Gallowhill, and within a short distance of the far-famed “ Moffat 
 Well,” is replete with every comfurt for visitors and patients. The public rooms, balls, and 
 corridors are universally recognized as unsurpassed by any similar Establishment, and the 
 baths are of the most varied and perfect construction. Moffat has long been a favourite 
 resort for those seeking health and pleasure, and in the Establishment, here is the addi- 
 tional attraction of good society and varied amusements. For full particulars apply to 
 
 THE MANAGER. 
 
 MULHOUSE (ALSACE). 
 
 h6tel central. 
 
 (Formerly HOTEL ROMAH3N.) 
 
 TN Town the only First-Class Establishment for Merchants 
 and Families. This House has been entirely redecorated. Baths, 
 Grand Cafe, Smoking, and Billiard Rooms. The Hotel is in Telephonic 
 connection with the Merchants’ Offices in Town and Neighbourhood. 
 
 Mulhouse is the best resting-place between France, Belgium, Holland, 
 North Germany, and Switzerland. 
 
 E. GRAEUB , Proprietor. 
 
 MUNICH. 
 
 WIMMER & CO., 
 
 « A L L £ B V OF FINE ARTS, 
 
 3, BRIENNER STREET, 
 
 Invite the Nobility and Gentry to visit their Gallery of j Fine Arts, containing an 
 Extensive Collection of 
 
 MODERN PAINTINGS 
 
 by the best Munich Artists. 
 
 PAINTINGS ON PORCELAIN AND ON GLASS. 
 
 Correspondents in England, Messrs. J. & R. M°CitACKEN, 38, Queen Street, Cannon Street, 
 E.C., London. Correspondents in the United States, Meters. Baldwin Bros. & Co. 
 72, Broadway, New York. 
 
1882. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER, 
 
 49 
 
 MUNICH. 
 
 BAVARIAN HOTEL. HOTEL DE BAVIERE. 
 
 ASCAR SEIF, Proprietor. Excellent First-class Hotel. Finest and healthiest situation 
 U on the Promenade Platz, near the Royal Theatres and Galleries. Every modern Comfort. Baths 
 and Carriages in the Hotel. Best Cooking and Wines. Moderate Charges. Personal management by 
 the Proprietor. 
 
 NAPLES. 
 
 HOTEL DE ROME. 
 
 FIRST-RATE HOTEL. 
 
 Incomparable situation facing the Sea and 
 overlooking the Bay and Mount Vesuvius. 
 
 Great Bath Establishment. 
 
 A. BRUSCHETTI, Manager. 
 
 NEUCHATEL. 
 
 HOTEL HE BELLE VUE. 
 
 Mr. ALBERT ELSKES, Proprietor. 
 FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, magnificently situated on 
 the border of the Lake, commanding splendid 
 views of the Panorama of the Alps. 
 MODERATE CHARGES. 
 
 N.B.— Besides the Evening Train (direct) a Day Train is newly organised 
 between Neuchatel and Paris, and vice versa. 
 
 __ NICE. 
 
 HOTEL DE FRANCE — Quai Massena. 
 
 M me S. ZUNDEL, Proprietress. 
 
 I CIEST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL of universal reputation, 
 . commanding a fine View of the Sea, and in best central position, 
 close to the Public Garden and the Promenade. House Patronised 
 especially by English and American Families. 
 
 Table d’Hote , having the Reputation of being the best in Nice. Charges 
 very moderate. 
 
 ' — - 
 
 NICE ~ (CAR ABAC EL). 
 
 JULLIEN’S HOTEL. 
 
 Highly Recommended. 
 CHARGES VERY MODERATE. 
 JULLIEN, Proprietor. 
 
50 
 
 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, 
 
 NICE. 
 
 SOCIETY AHOHYME DE LA 
 GRANDE BRETAGNE. 
 
 HOTEL DE LA GRANDE BRETAGNE. 
 
 Best Position of the Town, facing the Public Gardens, where 
 Concerts are given Daily, and overlooking the 
 
 PROMENADE DES ANGLAIS AND THE SEA. 
 
 .New Beading and Smoking Booms. South. 
 
 COSMOPOLITAN HOTEL 
 
 (late Chauvain’s). 
 
 Enlarged, Restored, and entirely Refurnished by the 
 New Manager. 
 
 Reading, Ladies’ Drawing, Billiard, and Smoking Rooms. 
 SPLENDID GALLERIE PROMENOIR. 
 
 FOUR LIFTS. 
 
 HOTEL DE L’ELYSEE, 
 
 PROMENADE DES ANGLAIS. 
 
 Admirably Situated in a Vast Garden . 
 
 Splendid View of the Promenade and the Sea. 
 Beading, Ladies 5 Drawing, Billiard, and Smoking Booms. 
 
 Full South. Arrangements made for a Protracted Stay . 
 
 N.B. — These three well-known First-Class Establishments 
 are situated full South, and heated by “ Caloriferes.” Bath 
 Rooms on every Floor. Excellent Cuisine. Choice T/Vines. 
 Moderate Charges. 
 
 J. LAVIT, Directeur-Gerant. 
 
1882. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 51 
 
 NUREMBERG. 
 
 HOTEL DE BAVIERE, 
 
 Proprietress, Mrs. G. P. AUINGEB. 
 
 T'HIS First-Class Hotel is situated in the middle of the Town close to the 
 A River. It is highly patronized by English and American Families. Every 
 comfort and Moderate Charges. Hot and Cold Baths in the Hotel. J 
 
 Omnibuses to and from each Train. Carriages in the Hotel. 
 ENGLISH CHURCH SERVICE HELD EVERY SUNDAY IN THE HOTEL 
 
 ODESSA., 
 
 HOTEL EUROPA. 
 
 APPOSITE the Bourse, commanding a view on the Sea, 
 on the Promenade, on the Sea Shores. Beautiful Rooms. Baths 
 in the House. Omnibus on the arrival of all Trains. Restaurant h, la 
 Carte. German, French, English, and Russian spoken. 
 
 GOOD ATTENDANCE. PRICES MODERATE. 
 
 F. H. KOHL (a Swiss) Proprietor. 
 
 N,CE * 
 
 HOTEL DES PRINCES. 
 
 UIRST-CLASS Family Hotel, 
 
 _L situated on the Quaidu Midi. Sheltered 
 situation, with a fine view of the Sea. 
 Charges Moderate. J. B. ISNARD. 
 
 OSTEND. 
 
 Murray’s Handbook for 
 Holland and Belgium. 
 
 Map and Plans. Post 8vo. 6s. 
 
 JOHN MURRAY, Albemarle Street. 
 
 OSTEN D. 
 MERTI AN’S 
 
 FIRST-CLASS 
 
 FAMILY HOTEL AND 
 PENSION. 
 
 Close to the Kursaal. 
 
 OSTEND. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL MARION. 
 JTRST-CLASS HOTEL, open 
 
 English tllG year * ' M ' ucil fre( l uen ted by 
 
 JOHN MARION & CO. 
 
 OXFORD. 
 
 RANDOLPH HOTEL. 
 
 THE ONLY MODERN HOTEL. FIRST-CLASS. 
 
 Every Comfort. Close to the Colleges. Prices Moderate. 
 
 MISS I’ ANSON , Manageress. 
 
 FIELD PATHS AND GREEN LANES. 
 
 Being Country Walks, chiefly in Surrey and Sussex. Third Edition 
 with Illustrations from Sketches made on the Spot. ’ 
 
 By LOUIS J. JENNINGS. Post 8vo. 10s. Gd. 
 
 JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 
 
 e 2 
 
52 
 
 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER, 
 
 May, 
 
 OXFORD. 
 
 T HE CLARENDON HOTEL. (Patronised by H.R.H. The Prince of Wales, H.R.H. 
 
 Prince Leopold, Their Imperial Majesties the Emperor and Empress of Brazil, the 
 Princess Frederick Charles of Prussia, and Prince Louis Lucien Bonaparte.) Situate in the 
 most central part of the City, and near to the principal Colleges, and places of interest to 
 visitors. Families and Gentlemen will find this Hotel replete with every comfort. Spacious 
 Coffee and Hilliard Rooms. Private Sitting and Bed rooms en suite. Ladies’ Coffte Room. 
 Guides always in ait ndance. Fashionable Open and Close Carriages. Job and Post Horses. 
 Good Stabling and Commodious Coach Houses. — JOHN F. ATTWOOD, Proprietor, 
 
 HOTEL P MLRABEAU, 
 
 85 Rue de Iel Paix. 
 
 Patronised by the Boyal Families of several Courts of Europe. 
 
 B EAUTIFULLY situated between the Place Venaome and 
 the New Opera, this Hotel possesses the prettiest Court-Yard in 
 Paris. Table d’Hote at separate Tables. All languages spoken. Lift 
 to each Floor. Arrangements made during the Winter. 
 
 PETIT (Uncle and Nephew), Proprietors. 
 
 PARIS. 
 
 HOTEL DES DEUX MONDES 
 ET D’ANGLETERRE. 
 
 22, AVENUE DE L’OPERA. 
 
 Founded in 1854, formerly 8, Rue d’Antin. 
 
 Mr. LEQJTEU, Proprietor. 
 
 Splendid Situation between the Tuileries and the New Grand Opera. 
 
 The most comfortable Family Hotel, being built specially. 
 Patronized by the English Aristocracy. 
 
 EXCELLENT TABLE D’HdTE. 
 
 READING, SMOKING, AND BILLIARD ROOMS ; BATHS. 
 
 LIFT. MODERATE CHARGES. 
 
 SPECIAL ARRANGEMENTS MADE. 
 
 PARIS. " 
 
 OPTICAL INSTRUMENTS. 
 
 T HE Establishment of the late celebrated Civil Engineer, CHEVALLIER, 15, Place du 
 Pont Neut (Founded in 1740), Sole Successor DUCRAY CHEVALLIER, Manufacturer 
 of Microscopes, of improved double Opera Glasses, Military Telescopes, Telescopes of all 
 kinds, Mathematical, Meteorological Instruments for Natural Philosophy, the Navy, &c., 
 Author of the “ Conservateur de la vue n de “ l’Essai sur Part del'ingdnieur.” &c. Inventor 
 of the Jumelles centrees (improved Opera Glasses). Patented Photo Field Glass. 
 
HOTEL MEURICE 
 
 1882. 
 
 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADYERTISER. 
 
 53 
 
 FIRST-CLASS HOTEL. 
 
 RUE DE RIVOLl. 
 
51 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May, 
 
 PARIS. 
 
 TOBACCO IN PARIS. 
 
 W. D. & H. O. WILLS’ 
 
 BEST BIRD'S-EYE TOBACCO 
 
 Is now (by the courtesy of the French Government) sold at the 
 Bureau of the Begie, Grand Hotel, Boulevard des Capucines, 
 Paris, at the rate of 
 
 12 Francs the Pound, in 8 oz. and 2 oz. Packets. 
 
 WILLS’ “BEST BIRD’S-EYE,” 
 WILLS’ “THREE CASTLES,” 
 
 AND 
 
 WILLS’ “WESTWARD-HQ,” 
 
 SMOKING MIXTURE, 
 
 (All specially prepared for export) may be obtained in 
 Brussels, St. Petersburg, Berlin, Stockholm, Gothenburg, in 
 most towns in Switzerland, and in the principal cities of the 
 German Empire. 
 
 Purchasers should beware of imitations , and see that every 
 packet bears the name of 
 
 W. D. & H. O. WILLS. 
 
 BRISTOL & LONDON. 
 
1882. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 55 
 
 PAU. 
 
 PAU. 
 
 WINTER RESORT, renowned for the numerous cures 
 which a residence has effected, particularly in cases of Affections of 
 the Chest, Heart, Larynx, and Throat. 
 
 Pau possesses a mild and salubrious climate, lying in the midst of 
 scenery of great grandeur ; on three days in each week Fox-hunting and 
 Polo Matches take place, and during the winter and spring there are 
 Horse Races twice every month. 
 
 In addition to these attractions, there are Good Clubs, a Theatre, Opera, 
 two Casinos, Balls, Pigeon Shooting Matches, Cricket Matches, Skating 
 Rinks, &c., &c. 
 
 FIRST-CLASS HOTEL AND GOOD BOARDING HOUSES. 
 
 Villas, Houses, and Furnished Apartments to Let, 
 
 AT VARIOUS PRICES. 
 
 All particulars sent gratuitously, address Mr. FREDERIC DANIEL, 
 
 Directeur Gerant de V Union Syndicate, 7, Hue des Cordeliers, Pau. 
 
 PENZANCE. 
 
 QUEEN’S HOTEL., (On the Esplanade .) 
 
 Patronised by Her Majesty the Queen of Holland. 
 
 T HIS magnificent Hotel has a frontage of over 170 feet, all the Rooms of which overlook 
 the Sea. It is the only Hotel that commands a full and uninterrupted view of Mount’s 
 Bay. Apartments en suite. Penzance stands unrivalled for the variety and quiet beauty 
 of its scenery, whilst the mildness of its climate is admirably adapted to invalids. Ladies' 
 Coffee and Drawing Rooms. Billiard Room. Hot and Cold Baths. Table d’Hote at 
 7 o’clock. An Omnibus meets every Train. Posting in all its Branches. Yachts, &c. 
 
 A. H. HORA, Proprietor. 
 
56 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER, 
 
 Winter Resort. 
 
 Sea Bathing. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL. 
 
 DISTANT FROM GENOA : AN HOUR BY TRAMWAY , , AND THIRTY MINUTES 
 
 BY RAILWAY. 
 
 SAME CLIMATE AS MENTONE AND SAN REMO. 
 Stay of Their Imperial and Royal Highnesses the CROWN 
 PRINCE and CROWN PRINCESS of Germany. 
 
 of 100 Rooms, with 
 and Garden of Exotic Plants. 
 English Service in the Chapel, on tbe grounds of the Hotel. Resident English Physician. 
 Warm Sea Water Baths. Splendid Bathing Establishment on the shore. Excellent place 
 for Excursions, Sketching, and Botanising. First-rate Cooking. Very moderate prices. 
 LANDRY & BUCHEN, Proprietors. 
 
 ivy AGNIFICENT First-Class Establishment, 
 J-tJL Southern aspect, in the middle of a large Park an 
 
 T HIS First-Class Hotel was built and furnished by the present owner nearly twenty 
 years ago. It has Fifty-five Rooms, having an uninterrupted and unsurpassed View of St. Michael’s 
 Mount and all the Bay. It is heated in Winter with Hot Water. Posting in all its Branches. Choice 
 Wines, &c. Table d’Hote. Ladies’ Drawing Room. Hot and Cold Baths. Terms Moderate. Porter 
 meets each Train. Mrs. E. LAVIN', Proprietress . 
 
 JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 
 
 PENZANCE. 
 
 MOUNTS BAT HOTEL, ESPLANADE. 
 
 FOR TRAVELLERS AND SPORTSMEN. 
 
 Fifth Edition, with Woodcuts, small 8vo. 
 
 THE ART OF TRAVEL ; or, Hints on the Shifts and 
 Contrivances available in Wild Countries. By Francis Galton, 
 F.B.G.S., Author of “ The Explorer in South Africa.” 
 
 “ . . . . The soldier should be taught all such practical expedients and their philo- 
 sophy , as laid down in Mr. Galton's useful little book.” — Minute by the late Sir 
 James Outram. 
 
 Mr. Galton publishes this little volume for the use of tourists who travel far and 
 * rough it.’ It would also put some useful ideas into the heads of men who stay at home.’* 
 — Examiner. 
 
 “ A handbook such as this might prove a friend in need even to an old traveller, while 
 to a young one who intends to venture beyond railways it must be invaluable.’' — Athenaeum. 
 
1882. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 57 
 
 PISA- 
 
 HOTEL EOYAL GRANDE BRETAGNE 
 ET D’ANGLETERRE. 
 
 r PHE BEST HOTEL IN PISA (see Murray’s Handbook of 
 Central Italy), opposite the New Bridge, “ Pont Solferino,” leading 
 direct to the Leaning Tower. Patronised by Henry Wadsworth Long- 
 fellow, Silvio Pellico, and Maaimo d’Azeglio, whose recommendation is 
 writtea in the Visitors’ Book of the Hotel. 
 
 Fifty years established, and known for its great comfort. Splendid 
 Terrace, with view of the Surrounding Country and Cathedral. Full 
 South on the Arno, with a nice Garden. 
 
 Next to the English Church. 
 
 CAPOCCHI ET MENESINI. 
 
 Special Terms at Moderate Prices for the Winter Season. 
 
 PISA. 
 
 ROYAL VICTORIA HOTEL. 
 
 Clean. Great attention. Recommended. 
 
 Messrs. Maquay Hooker’s Banking Office 
 is in the Hotel. 
 
 RAGATZ. 
 
 SCHWEIZERHOF HOTEL & 
 PENSION. 
 
 T)EST situation, next to the Baths, affords 
 
 J-) every convenience to English and American 
 Travellers. English Papers. Garden. Moderate 
 Terms. G. JAKLE, Proprietor. 
 
 PLYMOUTH. 
 
 THE ROYAL HOTEL, 
 
 FIRST-CLASS FAMILY AND POSTING HOUSE. 
 
 S. PE ARSE, Proprietor. 
 
 PLYMOUTH. 
 
 Only Hotel with Sea View . 
 
 GRAND HOTEL. 
 
 (ON THE HOE.) 
 
 Facing Sound, Breakwater, &c. Mail Steamers anchor in sight. Public Rooms, and Sitting 
 Rooms, with Balconies. JAMES BOHN, Proprietor . 
 
 PLYMOUTH. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK FOR DEVON AND 
 CORNWALL. 
 
 2 vols. Post 8 vo. 
 
 JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 
 
58 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May, 
 
 PLYMOUTH. 
 
 DUKE OF CORNWALL HOTEL. 
 
 Railway Terminus— Plymouth, Devon (Postal Telegraph Office). Oriental Steam Navigation 
 Company’s Office. First-Class Family Hotel. Table d’Hot-e daily. 
 
 Apply to the Manager. 
 
 PRAGUE. 
 
 “ENGLISCHER HOF.” 
 
 (HOTEL D’ANGLETERRE.) 
 
 F IRST-CLASS. The next to the Vienna, Dresden, and Karlsbad 
 Station. Patronised by English and Americans. English, American, 
 and French Papers. Reading Room. Ladies’ Coffee Room. Excellent 
 Boaid. Reasonable Charges. 
 
 GUSTAV HUTTIG, Proprietor. 
 PRAGUE. 
 
 HOTEL GOLDEN ANGEL. 
 
 Zum Goldenen Engel. Hotel deVAnge H Or. Zeltner Street , Old Town. 
 
 OITUATED at an easy distance from the Terminus of the 
 ^ Railway to Dresden and Vienna, Post and Telegraph Offices, the 
 Custom House, the Theatre, and other Public Buildings. English and 
 French Newspapers. Cold and Warm Baths. 
 
 F. STICKEL; Proprietor. 
 
1882. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 59 
 
 RHEINFALL. NEU HAUSEN. SCHAFFHAUSEN. 
 
 HOTEL SCHWEIZERHOF. Pbofbietob, Mb. WEGENSTEIN. 
 
 THE HOTEL SCHWEIZERHOF, known to English visitors as one of the best Hotels in 
 
 Switzerland, has been greatly enlarged, and is now a splendid first-rate establishment. 
 
 The SCHWEIZERHOF is situate opposite the celebrated Falls of the Rhine, and surrounded by a fine 
 park and garden. The position is unsurpassed, the eye ranging a distance of above 180 miles— a panoramic 
 view including the whole range of the Swiss Alps and the Mont Blanc. Healthy climate. Church Service. 
 Preserved Trout Fishing. Prices moderate. Pension. Hotel Omnibuses at Neuhausen and Schaflhausen. 
 
 RIGI. 
 
 HOTEL AND PENSION RIGHI-SCHEIDECK. 
 
 Terminus Station of the Rigi Kaltbad-Scheideck Railway. 
 
 Excellently suited for Tourists and Pensioners. View on the Alps 
 as beautiful as at Itigi-Kulm. 
 
 MODERATE CHARGES. LIBERAL TREATMENT. 
 
 By a stay of not less than four days, arrangement by pension can be made at 8 to 12 francs 
 per day per person. For further information apply to the 
 
 Proprietors, HAUSER & STIERLIN. 
 
 N.B. — Tourists having Tickets from Vitznau to Rigi-Kulm can interrupt the j Durney at 
 Rigi Kaltbad, take advantage of the beautiful Excursion to Scheideck and back, and then 
 continue the journey to Kulm by a following Train. 
 
 RIGI — KALT BAD. 
 
 A LPINE CLIMATE. 1500 metres above the sea. Opened from June 
 
 L*- to October. First-Class Hotel, with 300 Rooms comfortably furnished. Finest situa- 
 tion. The only Establishment on the Rigi sheltered from the cold winds. Large Hark and 
 Gardens, Terraces, Verandahs, especially for the use of Visitors. Level Walks and facilities 
 for Excursions. 
 
 Railway Station. Post and Telegraph Office. Physician. Baths. Divine Service. Good 
 Orchestral Band. 
 
 NEWSPAPERS, BILLIARDS , #c., IN THE HOUSE . 
 
 Pension Arrangements. 
 
 Further information will be given by 
 
 X. SEGESSER FAADETT, Proprietor. 
 
60 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May, 
 
 ROME. 
 
 HOTEL “MINERVA. 
 
 r FHIS large Establishment, whose direction has lately been 
 J- taken up again by the Proprietor, M. Joseph Sauve, has been 
 considerably ameliorated both as regards the perfect service and the 
 most elaborate comfort. Large Apartments as well as small, and Rooms 
 for Parties with more modest tastes, both very carefully furnished, are to 
 be found here. 
 
 Its position is one of the most advantageous. It is situated in the 
 very centre of the Town, and close to the most remarkable Monuments, 
 the Post and Telegraph Offices, the House of Parliament, and the Senate. 
 
 The Ladies’ Drawing Room, the Smoking Doom, and 
 Heading Dooms, where the principal Newspapers of every country 
 are to be found, and the Bathing Dooms, are always carefully warmed. 
 
 TWO OMNIBUSES BELONGING TO THE HOTEL MEET 
 EVERY TRAIN. 
 
 THE WAITERS AND CHAMBERMAIDS SPEAK ALL THE 
 PRINCIPAL LANGUAGES. 
 
 VERY MODERATE TERMS. 
 
 ROME. 
 
 CONTINENTAL HOTEL. 
 
 ONE OF THE LARGEST AND MOST COMFORTABLE 
 HOTELS IN ITALY. 
 
 Facing tlie Railw .y Station, in the most elevated part of the Town, and 
 the nearest to all the Antiquities and Attractions. 
 
 PROPRIETOR OP THE WELL-KNOWN 
 HOTEL D’ALLEMAGNE. 
 
 SITUATED IN THE CENTRE OF THE CITY OF ROME. 
 
 HEATED WITH HOT-AIR STOVES. 
 
 ELEVATOR WITH SAFETY BRAKE. 
 
 P. L. LUG- AMT. Proprietor. 
 
1882. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 61 
 
 ROME. 
 
 p BAND HOTEL DE BUSSIE, ET DES ILES BRITANNIQUES. 
 
 VJI This First-Class Establishment possesses the advantage of a beautiful Garden, and is 
 situated near the English and American Churches; the principal Apartments face the 
 South, the entire Hotel being warmed by two caloriferes, and the whole arrangements and 
 moderate prices give universal satisfaction. 
 
 MAZZERI, Proprietor. 
 
 ______ — “ R O M EL ~ “ ~™~~ ~ 
 
 TJOTEL ANGLO-AMERICAIN, Via Frattina, 128. Between the Corso 
 
 and Piazza d’Spagna. The nearest Hotel to the Post and Telegraph Offices. Situated 
 full South, in the most healthy part of the Town. Large and smalL Apartments. Table 
 d’Hote. Restaurant. Salon. Reading Room, with Newspapers in four languages. Smoking 
 and Billiard Room. Bath Room. Pension, and arrangements for B’amilies. Moderate Charges. 
 Omnibus at the Station to meet every Train. The principal languages are spoken. 
 
 VISeiOTTI & MEELI , Proprietors. 
 
 ROTTERDAM. 
 
 H. A. KRAMERS & SON, 
 
 IMPORTERS OF FOREIGN BOOKS. 
 
 Mr. Murray’s ‘Handbooks for Travellers,’ Bradshaw’s Monthly Railway Guides, 
 Baedeker’s ‘ Reisehandbticher,’ and Hendschel’s 4 Telegraph,’ always in Stock. Books 
 in all Languages imported every day, and a great variety of New Books kept in Store. 
 
 26, GELDERSCHE KADE, 26. 
 
 A ROUEN. 
 
 p RAND HOTEL DE FRANCE, 97-99, Rue des Cannes. Entirely 
 
 VT and carefully reorganised by the new Proprietor. This First-Class Hotel is now 
 a curiosity more in the Town, and situated in central position near the Public Buildings 
 and Theatres, specially recommended to Families visiting the Normandy Coasts. Large 
 Courtyard and Garden, where Breakfast, Luncheons, and Dinners are served in the Summer. 
 Ladies’ Room, Smoking Room, Table d’hote at 6 o’clock. First-Class Restaurant. 
 
 E. BARBIER, Proprietor. 
 
 ROUEN. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL DE PARIS. 
 
 SPLENDIDLY SITUATED ON 
 
 THE QUAI DE PARIS, 
 
 COMMANDING PICTURESQUE 
 
 VIEWS OF THE SEINE AND MOUNTAINS. 
 
 SPECIALLY RECOMMENDED TO 
 
 FAMILIES AND SINGLE TRAVELLERS. 
 
 Conversation Saloon. Smoking Room. 
 
 MODERATE PRICES. 
 
 TABLE D’HOTE. SERVICE A LA CARTE. 
 
 INTERPRETER. RECOMMENDED. 
 
 GUENARD BATAILLARD, Proprietor. 
 
62 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May, 
 
 ROUEN. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL D’ANGLETERRE (On the Quay). 
 
 Mr. AUGUSTE MONNIER, Proprietor, Successor of Mr. LfiON SOUCHARD. 
 
 T HIS HOTEL is distinguished for the salubrity of its situation, &c. ; and the new Pro- 
 prietor has entirely re-fitted it, and added a very comfortable Smoking-Room. It is 
 situated on the Quay facing the Bridges, and commands the finest view of the Seine, and 
 the magnificent Scenery encircling Rouen, that it is possible to imagine. Travellers will 
 find at this first-rate Establishment every comfort— airy Rooms, good Beds, Refreshments 
 and Wines of the best quality at moderate Prices. An excellent Table d’Hote at Six 
 o’clock. Restaurant a la carte . 
 
 Mr. Monnier speaks English, and has English Servants. 
 
 An excellent Descriptive Guide of Rouen can be had of Mr. Monnier. 
 
 ROYAT-LES-BAINS. 
 
 GRA ND HO TEL. 
 
 L, SERVANT, Proprietor. 
 
 FIRST-CLASS HOUSE. ENGLISH SPOKEN. 
 
 Opened from the First of May till the end of 
 
 October. 
 
 S ALISBUR Y. 
 
 THE WHITE HART HOTEL. Nearly Opposite the Cathedral. The largest 
 
 -i- and principal Hotel in the City. — This old-established first-class Hotel contains every accommodation for 
 Families and Tourists. A Ladies’ Coffee Room, Billiard and Smoking Rooms, and spacious Coffee Room for 
 Gentlemen. Table d’H6te daily during the season from 6 to 8.30 p.m. at separate tables. Carriages and 
 Horses on hire for Stonehenge and other places of interest. Excellent Stabling, Loose Boxes, &c. Tariff on 
 application to 
 
 H. T. BOWES, Manager, Posting Master to Her Majesty. 
 
 SA LZBU RS. 
 
 HOTEL DE L'EUROPE. 
 
 O PPOSITE the Station. First-Class Hotel, surrounded by a large 
 Park, and offering the best view on the Mountains. 
 
 PENSION. 
 
 Moderate Charges. 
 
 G. JUNG, Proprietor. 
 
 SAN SEBASTIAN. 
 
 HOTEL INGLES Y 
 
 DE INGLATERRA. 
 
 Facing the Sea , 
 
 English Papers. English Spoken. 
 
 SAN SEBASTIAN. 
 Murray’s Handbook for 
 Spain. 
 
 Maps and Plans. Post 8vo. 
 John Murray, Albemarle Street. 
 
1882 . 
 
 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 63 
 
 SAN REMO, ITALY. 
 
 WEST -END HOTEL. 
 
 A LARGE Building, expressly built for an Hotel, with all 
 the latest appliances to insure perfection in sanitary arrangements 
 — its Closets being on the most approved English principle. Beautifully 
 situated at the West End of the Town, a good distance from the Sea, 
 commanding an extensive View of the Bay. 
 
 LIFT. READING, BILLIARD, and SMOKING SALOONS. 
 
 LADIES 5 DRAWING ROOM. 
 
 ENGLISH AND FOREIGN NEWSPAPERS . 
 
 Excellent Cuisine and Oiioiee Wines. 
 
 GREAT CLEANLINESS. 
 
 Omnibus of the Hotel meets all Trains. 
 
 Special arrangements for a lengthened sojourn . 
 
 ONLY HOUSE WITH LIFT. 
 
 All Languages spoken. 
 
 Proprietor, ROBERT WULFING. 
 
 SCHWALBACH. 
 
 THE DUKE OF NASSAU HOTEL. 
 
 This First-Class Hotel, with private Hotel adjoining, is beautifully 
 situated in the healthiest and best part of the town, facing the Public Promenades, and 
 in close proximity to the Royal Baths, the New Curhouse, the Drinking Hall, and the 
 English Church. It contains a good number of elegantly-furnished Apartments and Saloons 
 for families and single gentlemen, and combines comfort with Moderate Charges. This 
 Hotel is patronised by many distinguished families of England and the Continent. Favour- 
 able “ Pension ” arrangements are made at the end of the Season. A 'comfortable Omnibus 
 belonging to the Hotel starts from Schwalbach to Wiesbaden at eight o’clock in the morning, 
 and leaves Wiesbaden at five o’clock in the afternoon, opposite the Railway Station, from 
 the Taunus Hotel. Cafe Restaurant, Paulinenberg, Whey and Milk Establishment, ten 
 minutes’ walk from the Nassau Hotel, with which there is communication by Telephone, 
 delightfully situated, amidst a beautiful park with splendid view. 
 
 J. C. WILHELMY, Proprietor. _ 
 SCHWALBACH. ~~ 
 
 HOTEL ALLEE-SAAL. 
 
 (HOTEL DE LA PROMENADE.) 
 
 D6pendance : VILLA GREBERT. 
 
 F IRST-CLASS HOTEL. Under the Patronage of T.R.H. the Prince and Princess of 
 Wales. FERD. GREBERT, SONS, Proprietors. 
 
 SHANKLIN, ISLE OF WIGHT. 
 
 Shaiiklin for Sunshine. 
 
 H INTON’S ROYAL SPA HOTEL. Facing the Sea and under the Cliffs in the Isle of 
 of Wight, a Sheltered and Sequestered nook. Drawing-room, Conservatory, Flowers 
 and Birds. Table-d'hote at 7, separate Tables; 50 Bed and Sitting Rooms; Billiards and 
 Lawn Tennis free of charge, and constant amusements. Tariff, on application, for Families 
 residing in the Hotel. Pension, £3 3s. per week in winter ; £3 13s. 6d.[in Summer. 
 
64 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May, 
 
 SEVILLE. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL DE MADRID. 
 
 F IRST-CLASS Family Hotel, the largest in Seville. Well 
 situated. Apartments for Families. Table d’Hote. Read- 
 ing and Smoking Rooms. Foreign Newspapers. Baths, 
 Tropical Gardens, Carriages, Interpreters. Arrangements 
 for Winter. 
 
 Moderate Prices. 
 
 JULIO MEAZZA, Manager. 
 
 S PA- 
 
 GRIND HOTEL BRITANNIQUE. 
 
 F. LEYH, Proprietor. 
 
 PATRONISED BY THE ROYAL FAMILY OF BELGIUM, 
 
 And maintains a high reputation among the Aristocracy of 
 
 Europe. 
 
 SITUATED IN THE HEALTHIEST PART OF THE TOWN, 
 
 LARGE GARDEN AND SWIMMING BATHS. 
 
 Adjoining the Boulevard des Anglais and the English Church. 
 ENGLISH SPOKEN. 
 
 OMNIBTJS AT EACH ARRIVAL. 
 
 “ SPA. 
 
 HOTEL DES PAYS-BAS. 
 
 Vve. I. DE COCK, Proprietress. 
 
 UIRST-CLASS. Exceptional situation at the top of the Town. Large 
 JJ Garden opposite the Pouhon, close to the Casino and Baths. Omnibus at the Station. 
 Much recommended. 
 
 “ ~ ’ spaT 
 
 GRAND HdTEL DE L’EUROPE. 
 
 F IRST-CLASS HOTEL. Splendid Situation. Fine Apartments. Drawing and Reading 
 Room. Every Comfort. Spacious and handsome alterations have been lately made. 
 
 Omnibus of the Hotel at the Arrival of every Train. 
 
1882 , 
 
 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 65 
 
 STOCKHOLM, SWEDEN. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL. 
 
 T HIS Handsome Building is situated in the finest part of the City> 
 between Charles the Xllth's Square and the National Museum, on 
 I one of the Principal Quays, just at the confluence of the Lake Malar and 
 the Baltic. 
 
 ; The Royal Palace, one of the stateliest in Europe, faces the Hotel on 
 the opposite side of the Harbour. The Royal Opera and the Principal 
 Theatres are in close proximity. 
 
 The balconies and roof of the Hotel command the most extensive Views 
 of the City. 
 
 } The House is replete with every modern improvement and convenience, 
 ! and no expense has been spared to render it one of the first and most com- 
 j fortable Hotels on the Continent. 
 
 j The Building contains Four Hundred Sleeping Apartments, besides 
 | Dining Rooms, Sitting Rooms, Coffee and Reading Rooms, a Billiard Room, 
 I a Telegraph and Post Office, Baths, Retiring Rooms, a Laundry, and other 
 \ accommodations. The several flats can be reached by Steam Lifts. 
 
 All European Languages spoken. Guides and Conveyances supplied to 
 all places of interest in the City and Neighbourhood. Terms will be found 
 to compare favourably with those of other first-class Hotels. 
 
 r JTlie Hotel Rydberg. 
 
 Gtjstaf Adolf’s Toeg. 
 
 T HIS Old-established House has long been favourably known to Travel- 
 lers. It contains One Hundred and Fifty Sleeping Apartments. 
 
 The Proprietor of these Two First-Class Hotels is in a position to offer 
 every advantage to strangers visiting the Swedish Capital. 
 
 R. CADIER, 
 
 Proprietor of the Grand Hotel and the Hotel Rydberg. 
 
 F 
 
66 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May. 
 
 SCHWALBACH. J SHEFFIELD. 
 
 Hotel Metropole Dependence § MIDLAND STATION HOTEL. 
 
 Villa Metropole. j ^ First-Class Hotel, within one minute’s 
 
 First-Class Hotel. Fine situation. In the walk of the Station. Telephone. Hotel 
 most airy and healthiest part. Porters attend the Trains. 
 
 G. HERBSTER, Proprietor. I GEORGE WOOD , Proprietor. 
 
 SOUTHPORT. 
 
 I-I OTEL. 
 
 (ON THE PROMENADE.) 
 
 Facing the Sea. Adjoining the Winter Gardens. Charges Moderate. 
 
 Boarding Terms, Three Guineas per Week. 
 
 J. C. SEIDENS TRICKER, Proprietor. 
 
 STRASBURQ. 
 
 HOTEL D’ANGLETERRE. 
 
 N EWLY RESTORED, and Furnished with every modern 
 comfort by its new Proprietor, Ch. Mathis. Opposite the Railway 
 Station. Adjoining the Post and Telegraph Office. Near the Cathedral. 
 
 Large Dining , Reading , and Smoking Rooms. 
 
 80 Sitting and Bed Rooms. 
 
 & STUTTGART. 
 
 HOTEL MAEQUARDT 
 
 P situated in the finest part of the Town, in the beautiful Place Royal, 
 near the Railway Station, the Post Office, the Theatre, the Royal Gardens, opposite the 
 Palace, and fachig the new Odeon. This Hotel will be found most comfortable iu every 
 respect ; the Apartments are elegantly furnished, and suitable for Families or Single 
 Gentlemen. Table d’Hote at 1 and 5 o’clock. French and English Newspapers. 
 
 GME. MARQUARDT, Proprietor. 
 
 THUN (Switzerland). 
 
 GRAND HOTEL DE THOUNE 
 
 (THUNERHO F). 
 
 Proprietor, Ch. STAEHLE, formerly Manager at the Hotel Bauer au Lac, 
 
 Zurich. 
 
 TTURST-CLASS HOTEL, the largest and most comfortable in the place, 
 Jj beautifully situated at the Lake, with a splendid view of the Alps, and surrounded 
 by a large Garden. A Terrace found the whole length of the House ; no equal in Switzer- 
 land. There is also a Lift. 
 
 PRICES ARE FIXED UP IN EACH ROOM. 
 
 Pension, the whole Season by staying Five Days. 
 
 THUN, SWITZERLAND. 
 
 FALCON HOTEL. 
 
 CENTRAL ON THE AAR. 
 GOOD SITUATION. 
 COMMERCIAL AND FAMILY HOTEL. 
 OPEN ALL THE YEAR. 
 
 TOURS. 
 
 HOTEL DE L’UKTVEBS. 
 
 Pleasantly Situated. Has a European 
 Reputation. 
 
 Specially arranged for Families. 
 English Spoken. 
 
1882. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 67 
 
 TOTNES. 
 
 TIHE SEYMOUR FAMILY HOTEL, on the hanks of the DART, 
 
 -L TOTNES. Patronised by H.R H. the Prince of Wales. Tourists and Families visiting the unrivalled 
 scenery of the River Dart and South Devon, will find the above Hotel most convenient. The Hotel is 
 furnished with every requisite, each room commanding an extensive and beautifully varied landscape. 
 The ruins of Totnes, Berry Pomeroy, and Compton Castles, are within easy distance. Holne Chase, the far- 
 famed Buckland Drives, Hay Tor and Dartmoor, within posting distance. Boats can be hired from the Hotel 
 Garden Steps. Hunting and Fishing in the immediate Neighbourhood. Omnibuses from the Hotel meet all 
 Trains and Dart Steamboats. 
 
 Post Horses and Carriages. G-. & F. MITCHELL, Proprietors. 
 
 TOU LOUSE. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL DU MIDI. 
 
 Patronised by the Duke of [Norfolk and Due d’Aumale. 
 
 BEAUTIFULLY SITUATED ON TEE PLACE DU CAP IT OLE. 
 
 FIRST-GLASS ESTABLISHMENT, 
 
 Offering the same comforts as the largest Hotels in France. 
 
 Frequented by the highest Class of English and American Travellers. 
 English spoken. Restaurant and Table d’Hote. Rich Reading Room 
 and Conversation Salon. 
 
 EUG. POURQUIER, Proprietor. 
 
 ~~~ I toulouse" ~ ~ 
 
 GRAND HOTEL SOUVILLE (Place du Capitole). 
 
 K EPT by M. DARDIGNAC, Restaurateur. A First-class House, one of the best-situated 
 in the Town, close to the Grand Theatre, Post and Telegraph Office. Is to be recom- 
 mended from its good Attendance. Most comfortable Apartments, Salons, and Bedrooms. 
 Restaurant at fixed Prices, or a la carte. Private Service for Families. Baths and Private 
 Carriages in the Hotel. Carriages and Omnibus enter the Courtyard of the Hotel. 
 
 TURIN. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL DE L’EUROPE. 
 
 PROPRIETORS— 
 
 Messrs. BORGO and GAGLIARDI. 
 
 Situated Place die Chateau, opposite tlxe 
 King’s Palace. 
 
 (Five minutes from the Bailway Station.) 
 
 T HIS unrivalled and admirably-conducted Hotel recommends itself to 
 the notice of English travellers. 
 
 EXCELLENT TABLE D’HOTE AT 6 O’CLOCK. 
 
 BATHS IN THE HOTEL. 
 
 Interpreters speaking all the European Languages. 
 
 Charges Moderate. The Times Newspaper. An Omnibus 
 from the Hotel will be found at every Train. 
 
68 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May, 
 
 TURIN. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL LIGURIE, 
 
 Bodoni Square, and Andrea Doria and Charles Albert Streets. 
 
 M AGNIFICENT, very good and comfortable. Removed to a large and sumptuous 
 Palace, expressly built. First-Class Family Hotel. The only one of Turin isolated 
 in a large beautiful square, splendidly exposed to the south. Highly patronised by the 
 best English and American Families. ALBINO GKO 1 1)1, Proprietor. 
 
 VARESE. (Lombardy. ) 
 
 GRAND HOTEL VARESE. 
 
 In direct communication by Rail with 
 
 MILAN , ; LAKE M AG G I ORE, COMO, and LUGANO . 
 
 F IRST-CLASS HOTEL, surrounded with an extensive GARDEN 
 
 and PARK, situated in the best and healthiest part of Lombardy, 1319 feet above the 
 Sea, commanding a most extensive view of the Alps, Monte Rosa Chains, and containing 
 
 SOO Rooms and 8aloon^. 
 
 PEN SION. Baths on each floor. English Church. English Physician attached to the Hotel. 
 
 E. MARINI, Manager. 
 
 VENICE. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL D’lTALIE, 
 
 BAUER TRUNWALD. 
 
 F IRST-CLASS HOTEL, near St. Mark’s Square, on the 
 Grand Canal, facing the Church of St. Maria della Salute. 
 Fresh and Salt Water Baths ready at all hours. 
 
 Celebrated for its “ Grand Restaurant ” and Vienna Beer. 
 
 INLES TRUNWALD, Proprietor. 
 
 VENICE. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL DE L’EUROPE. 
 
 QLD-ESTABLISHED FIKST-CLASS HOTEL, situated 
 
 on the Grand Canal. Large and small Apartments for Families and 
 Gentlemen. Visitors will find this Hotel very comfortable, well-situated, 
 and reasonable in its Charges. 
 
 MARSEILLE BRO s , Proprietors. 
 
 VERONA. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL DE LONDRES. 
 
 FORMERLY HOTEL DE LA TOUR DE LONDRES. A. CERESA, New Proprietor. 
 
 T HE largest and finest Hotel in Verona, near the Roman Amphitheatre. English Church Services in the 
 Hotel. Most central position. Great comfort. All Languages spoken. Omnibus to and from the 
 Stations. Highly recommended. 
 
 G. CAVESTRI, Manager. 
 
1882. MURRAY’ o HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 69 
 
 VIENNA. 
 
 ©miiTiotel, 
 
 KARNTHNERRING No. 9, 
 
 S ITUATED on the most elegant and frequented Square of 
 the City. Three hundred Rooms, from 1 florin upwards. 
 Apartments, from 6 florins upwards. Beautiful Dining 
 Saloon, Restaurant Saloons, Conversation, Smoking, and 
 Reading Rooms. 
 
 BATHS & TELEGRAPH OFFICE IN THE HOUSE. 
 
 Lifts for Communication with each Storey. 
 
 DINNERS & SUPPERS A LA CARTE. TABLE D’HOTE. 
 
 OMNIBUSES AT THE RAILWAY STATIONS. 
 
 VIENNA. 
 
 J. & L. LOBMEYR, 
 
 GLASS MANUFACTURERS, 
 
 Appointed Purveyors to the Imperial Court of Austria, 
 
 No. 13, KARNTHNERSTRASSE. 
 
 The most extensive Establishment for Bohemian Crystal, Fancy 
 Glass, and Chandeliers . 
 
 Every variety of Glass for Household use, Ornament, and in Art 
 Workmanship Specialities in Engraved Glass and Looking-Glasses. 
 Chandeliers, Candelahras, in Crystal and Bronze. 
 
 LARGE SHOW-ROOMS UPSTAIRS. 
 
 The prices are fixed, and are very moderate. — English is spoken. 
 
 Their Correspondents in England, Messrs. J. & R. M c Cracken, No. 38, 
 Queen Street, Cannon Street, E.C., London, will transmit all orders with 
 the greatest care and attention. 
 
70 
 
 HURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May, 
 
 V EVE Y. 
 
 HOTEL MONNET AND TROIS 
 COUEONNES, 
 
 P. SCHOTT. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL DE VEVEY, 
 
 A. HIRSCHY. 
 
 'J'HESE two First-Class Houses are beautifully situated 
 on tlie Lake of Geneva, with a magnificent view from the Gardens 
 in front of the Hotel. 
 
 GREAT COMFORT AND CLEANLINESS. 
 
 ARRANGEMENTS MADE DURING THE WINTER 
 
 “EN PENSION.” 
 
 VICHY. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL DU PARC. 
 
 THE LARGEST AND MOST COMFORTABLE IN VICHY. 
 
 A FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, situated in the Park, facing the Baths, 
 Springs, and Casino. 
 
 PRIVATE PAVILiql JpRJAMILIES. 
 
 GERMOT, Proprietor. 
 
 VIENNA. 
 
 HOTEL DE LA CODE D’AUTRICHE. 
 (OSTERREICH HOF.) 
 
 F IRST- CLASS Hotel . Moderate Charges. 
 
 Bath. English Newspapers. English 
 spoken. 
 
 J. HANISCH, Proprietor. 
 
 VIENNA. 
 
 Murray’s Handbook for 
 South Germany. 
 
 Post 8 vo. 10s. 
 
 JOHN MURRAY, Albemarle Street. 
 
 WIESBADEN.-ROSE HOTEL AND BATH HOUSE. 
 
 S PLENDID First-Class Establishment close to the Cnrsaal, opposite the 
 Trinkhalle, and adjoining the Promenade. No other Hotel except this is surrounded 
 by a Garden of its own, or supplied with Baths direct from the hot springs (Kochbrunnen). 
 Quiet and airy situation, with English comfort and reasonable Charges. Drawing, Reading, 
 and Smoking Rooms, and Billiard Room, containing a full-sized Billiard Table. Table 
 d’Hdte at One and Five o’clock. AEEENER FRERES, Proprietors. 
 
1882. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER, 
 
 71 
 
 VICHY. 
 
 View of the Grand Hotel des Ambassadeurs at Vichy-les-Bains. 
 
 p RAND HOTEL DES AMBASSADEURS, Situated on the Park.— 
 
 \ VT This magnificent Hotel is now one of the first in the town. It is managed in the same style as the 
 largest and best hotels on the Continent. By its exceptional situation, the house presents three fronts, from 
 which the most beautiful views are to he had ; and from its balconies is heard the excellent Band of the 
 Casino. The Hotel contains 200 Rooms, 20 Saloons, a Saloon for Banquets, capable of holding 600 persons, 
 and a large and fine Dining Room, 200 Covers, a Smoking Room, and 2 Billiard Tables. Restaurant et 
 service h la Carte. Large and small apartments for families. English spoken. The Omnibus of the Hotel 
 ; awaits all the Trains at the Station. BOUBEAU-PIiACE, Proprietor. 
 
 WIESBADEN. 
 
 HOTEL ET BAINS DE NASSAU. 
 
 (NASS AUER HOF) 
 
 Messrs. GOETZ BROTHERS, Proprietors, 
 j FIRST-CLASS HOTEL of old and good reputation, opposite the 
 L Curbaus, Colonnades, Par its, and next the Theatre. Splendid Dining and Reading 
 Rooms. Table d’H6te at One and Five o’clock. Mineral Baths of Own Hot Spring. 
 
 HOTEL VILLA NASSAU. 
 
 Annexe of the Hotel de Nassau. Proprietors also Messrs. Goetz Brothers. 
 
 FINEST FAMILY HOTEL in Town, with all Modern Comfort, in 
 
 T. beautiful situation next the Hot Springs, Theatre, Curhaus, Colonnades, etc. 
 
 WIESBADEN. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL DU RHIN AND BATH. 
 
 THIRST-CLASS New House, exceedingly well situated, just 
 A opposite the Railway Station, the Post and Telegraphic direction, 
 on the Promenades, combining comfort with Moderate Charges. Music 
 and Reading Saloons. Rooms from 2 mks. 50 pf. per day, inclusive of 
 Candles and Service. In Winter the whole Building and Winter Gardens 
 | are well warmed. The Omnibus for Sehwalbach and Schlangenbad starts 
 from near the Hotel. 
 
 Large stock of the best Rhine and Moselle Wines for wholesale. 
 
 Railway Tickets for all the Towns on the Continent are issued in the Hotel. 
 
72 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May, 
 
 w - ZAIS, WIESBADEN. Proprietor. 
 
 “FOUR SEASONS” (Vier Jahreszeiten) HOTEL. 
 
 ’J'HIS First-Class House enjoys the finest position in the Great Square, 
 facing the Kursaal, the Park, and being close to the Springs. Numerous Saloons with 
 Balconies and comfortable Sleeping Rooms. Fine Dining and Assembly Rooms. Large 
 Mineral Bathing Establishment. Charges Moderate. 
 
 WIESBADEN. 
 
 HOTEL VICTORIA AND BATH. 
 
 F IRST-CLASS HOTEL, with real English comfort, situate opposite the Railway and the 
 Promenade; splendidly fitted up for Vapour, Russian, and all Medical Baths; own 
 Spring. Magnificently Furnished Apartments. Moderate Charges. Good Attendance. 
 Pension : Rooms from 2 marks and upwards. 
 
 WILDBAD. 
 
 HOTEL KLUMPP, 
 
 Formerly HOTEL DE L’OtJRS. 
 
 Mr. W. KLUMPP, Proprietor. 
 
 T HIS First-Class Hotel, containing 45 Saloons and 235 Bed Rooms, with a separate 
 Breakfast and new Reading and Conversation Rooms, as well as a Smoking 
 Saloon, and a very extensive and elegant Dining Room ; an artificial Garden over the 
 river ; is beautifully situated in connection with the old and new Bath Buildings 
 and Conversation House, and in the immediate vicinity of the Promenade and the 
 New Colonnade. It is celebrated for its elegant and comfortable apartments, good 
 Cuisine and Cellar, and deserves i ts wide-spread reputation as an excellent Hotel. 
 Table d’Hote at One and Five o’clock. Breakfasts and Suppers a la carte . 
 Exchange Office. Correspondent of the principal Banking-houses of London for 
 the payment of Circular Notes and Letters of Credit. Omnibuses of the Hotel to 
 and from each Train. Elevators to every floor. Fine Private Carriages when 
 requested. Warm and Cold Baths in the Hotel. 
 
 EXCELLENT ACCOMMODATION. 
 
 WURZBURG. A 
 
 KRONPRINZ HOTEL. 
 
 H ONOURED by the presence of His Imperial Majesty the Emperor 
 of Germany, on the occasion of his recent visit to this Town. This First-Class Hotel 
 is particularly recommended for its Large and Airy Apartments, having the finest situation 
 near the Station, facing the Palace, and adjoining a fine Garden. Reading Kooms. Cold and 
 Warm Baths, &c. Moderate Charges. No extra charges for Service and Candles. 
 
 J. AMMON. 
 
 ZARAGOZA, SPAIN. 
 
 Grand Hotel de I’Europe. 
 
 Excellent Cooking and Moderate 
 Charges. 
 
 VIUDA. DE ZOPPETTI Y HI JOS, 
 
 Proprietors. 
 
 SPAIN. 
 
 Duncan’s English in Spain; 
 
 or, The Story of the War of Succession, 
 1834 and 1840. Compiled from the Re- 
 ports of the British Commissioners. With 
 Illustrations. 8vo. 16s. 
 
 JOHN MURRAY, Albemarle Street. 
 
1882. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 73 
 
 ZURICH. 
 
 Railway Station, HOTEL HABIS. Railway Station, 
 
 ll/TOST Comfortable. 50 Rooms, with 80 Beds. Winter 
 
 Garden. Telephone. Moderate Prices. 
 
 Tourists are hereby invited on their arrival at the Station to ask for the 
 Hall Porter to attend to their Luggage. 
 
 ED. HABISREXJTINGER, Proprietor. 
 
 ZURICH. 
 
 WANNER’S HOTEL GARNI, on the Railway Terminus, Bahnhof- 
 
 * * strasse. The most beautiful and open situation in the Town. Rooms, beautifully 
 furnished, from frs. 1*50 to frs. 2*50. Apartments for Families. The comforts as in a 
 First-Class Hotel. 
 
 Restaurant on Ground Floor. German Beer on draught. Porter at the Station. 
 
 H. WANNER, Proprietor. 
 
 EVERY TRAVELLER'S COMPANION. 
 
 Sixteenth Edition. Fcap. 3s. 6d. 
 
 MURRAY’S 
 
 HANDBOOK OF TRAVEL TALK. 
 
 DIALOGUES -QUESTIONS -VOCABULARIES. 
 
 IN ENGLISH, GERMAN, FRENCH, AND ITALIAN. 
 
 Prepared expressly for English Travellers Abroad, and Foreigners Visiting England. 
 
 A New Edition, thoroughly Revised. 
 
 The “ Handbook of Travel Talk ” is not a reprint of old manuals of 
 conversation “ drawn up towards the end of the last century,” but a 
 modern traveller’s phrase book, compiled expressly to meet the wants of 
 the present day. Ample space is given to such matters as Railway 
 (Taking Tickets — In the Train — The Station, &c.), Post Office, Telegraph, 
 Luggage Office, and to the multitude of technical words and phrases 
 which the progress of modem travel has developed. 
 
 During the Fifteen Editions which it has passed through, it has 
 undergone constant improvement; the consequence is, that it contains 
 many words of modern invention not to be found in dictionaries. 
 
 “ The appearance of a new and carefully revised edition of Mr. Murray’s excellent 
 ‘ Handbook of Travel Talk’ is one of many severe symptoms of the return of the Tourist 
 Season. 
 
 “ The compilers of the * Handbook of Travel Talk * appear to have kept steadily in view 
 the actual needs of travellers; for it is absurd to put a manual of polite conversation on 
 literature, art, science, philosophy, and the musical glasses into the hands of an honest but 
 uncultivated tourist, who can only ejaculate his simple wants in inarticulate interjections.” 
 — Saturday Review. 
 
 JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 
 
74 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May, 
 
 Switzerland.) ZURICH. (Switzerland. 
 
 ZURICH is tlie Central Point of Eastern Switzerland 
 for Traffic, Commerce, Industry, and for its Social Life. 
 
 Most beautifully situated on the Lake and the River Limmat, with 
 extended Panorama of the Alps from the Uetliberg Railway, the 
 Zurichberg and the “ Waid.” Celebrated Town Library. Scientific 
 Collections in the Polytechnic. 
 
 University, Observatory. Well-known Reading-Room in the 
 Museum. Summer Theatre. Daily Concerts in the Concert Hall. 
 
 hotels. 
 
 On the Lake and in the Vicinity. 
 
 Baur au Lac, Tu. Baur. 
 Bellevue au Lac, Pohl. 
 Du Lac, Mooser. 
 
 Central Part of Town. Ntar the Bailtvay Station. 
 
 BaurenVille, National, Michel. 
 
 Fam Brunner. . 
 
 St. Gotthard, Zolliker. 
 
 Zurcherhof Lang. Schweizerhof, Meister. Wanner’s Garni, "Wanner/ 
 
 Falken, Weise. 
 
 Hecht, Waldmeier-Boller. Schwanen, Brungger. Limmathof, Punter. 
 
 Rothhaus, Brunner. 
 
 Kreuz, Seefeld, Meyer. Schiff, Schatti. Sieberz, Sieberz. 
 
 Boarding Bouses and Curative Establishments : — 
 
 HOTEL and PENSION 64 UETLIBEPG-,” on the Uetliberg, 
 
 J. Boller and Sons. 
 
 HOTEL and PENSION SCHWANEN, on the Muhlebacb, 
 
 J. Boller and Sons. 
 
 PENSION NEPTUN, Seefeld. Vve. Mettler. 
 Gastwirth-Verein — Societe des Hoteliers -United Hotel-keeper’s Society. 
 
1882. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 75 
 
 HOW TO LEARN MODERN LANGUAGES. 
 
 The success attending Dr. Wm. Smith’s 11 Principia Latina ” and “ Initia 
 Gileca,” which practical teachers have found the easiest books for learning 
 Latin and Greek , has led to the application of the same method to the French, 
 German, and Italian Languages. There is an obvious advantage in a beginner 
 learning a new language on the plan with which he is already familiar. 
 These books combine the advantage of the older and more modern methods of 
 instruction. 
 
 FRENCH COURSE. 
 
 Edited by Dr. Wm. Smith. 
 
 FRENCH PRINCIPIA, Part I. A First French Course, 
 
 containing Grammar, Delectus, Exercises, Vocabularies, &c. 12mo. 3s. 6d. 
 
 APPENDIX TO FRENCH PRINCIPIA, Part I. 
 
 Containing Additional Exercises, with Examination Papers. I2mo. 2s. 6 d. 
 
 FRENCH PRINCIPIA, Part II. A Reading Book, 
 
 containing Fables, Stories, and Anecdotes, Natural History, and Scenes from the 
 History of France. . With Grammatical Questions, Notes, and Copious Etymological 
 Dictionary. 12mo. 45. 6 d. 
 
 THE STUDENT’S FRENCH GRAMMAR : a Prac- 
 
 tical and Historical Grammar of the French Language. By C. Hebon-Wall. With 
 Introduction by M. Littre. Post 8vo. Is. 6 d. 
 
 A SMALLER GRAMMAR OF THE FRENCH 
 
 LANGUAGE. Abridged from the above. 12mo. 3 s.6d. 
 
 GERMAN COURSE. 
 
 Edited by Dr. Wm. Smith. 
 
 GERMAN PRINCIPIA, Part I. A First German 
 
 Course, containing a Grammar, Delectus, Exercises, Vocabularies, &c. 12mo. 3s. 6 d. 
 
 GERMAN PRINCIPIA, Part II. A Reading Book, 
 
 containing Fables, Stories, and Anecdotes, Natural History, and Scenes from the 
 History of Germany. With Grammatical Questions, Notes, and Dictionary. 
 12mo. 3s. 6<Z. 
 
 PRACTICAL GERMAN GRAMMAR. With a Sketch 
 
 of the Historical Development of the Language and its Principal Dialects. Post 
 8vo. 3s. 6 d. 
 
 ITALIAN COURSE. 
 
 Edited by Dr. Wm. Smith. 
 
 ITALIAN PRINCIPIA, Part I. A First Italian Course, 
 
 containing a Grammar, Delectus, Exercise Book, with Vocabularies, and Materials 
 for Italian Conversation. By Signor Ricci. 12mo. 3s. 6 d. 
 
 ITALIAN PRINCIPIA, Part II. A First Italian 
 
 Reading Book, containing Fables, Anecdotes, History, and Passages from the best 
 Italian Authors, with Grammatical Questions, Notes, and a copious Etymological 
 Dictionary. 12mo. 3s. 6 d. 
 
 JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 
 
76 
 
 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May, 1882. 
 
 ESTABLISHED 1882. 
 
 THE ORIGINAL GUIDE & TRAVELLERS’ DEP&T, 
 
 AND 
 
 |) as sport mrb Couriers’ llcreitqi, 
 
 LEE & CARTER, 
 
 440, WEST STRAND, LONDON 
 
 (Nearly opposite the Charing Cross Hotel). 
 
 STIFF OR LIMP. OF ALL PATTERNS. OF ALL KINDS. 
 
 Intending Tourists are respectfully invited to visit this Establishment 
 before making purchases for their journey. 
 
 AN EXTENSIVE STOCK OF TRAVELLERS’ REQUISITES TO SELECT FROM. 
 
 LISTS GRATIS. 
 
 COURIERS, DRAGOMEN, 
 
 AND 
 
 TRAVELLING SERVANTS 
 
 of good character and experience, speaking European 
 and Eastern Languages, can be engaged at the 
 above Establishment. 
 
 Also Passports and Visas obtained. Passports 
 mounted on Linen and put in Cases, with Name 
 printed outside. 
 
 440, WEST STRAND. 
 
 London : Printed by William Clowes and Sons, 'Limited, Stamford Street and Charing Cross. 
 
<3~X 6 t x 
 
MUR RAY’S ENGLISH HANDBOOKS 
 
 HANDBOOK— LONDON AS IT IS. Maps and Plans. 16mo. 3». 6d. 
 
 HANDBOOK— ENVIRONS OF LONDON —Including a Circuit 20 miles 
 
 round the Metropolis. 2 Parts. Post 8vo. 21s. 
 
 HANDBOOK— ENGLAND AND WALES. Arranged alphabetically and con- 
 
 densed into One Volume. Map. Post 8 vo. 10s. 
 
 HANDBOOK — EASTERN COUNTIES — Chelmsford, Harwich, Col- 
 chester, Maldon, Cambridge, Ely, Newmarket, Bury St. Edmunds, Ipswich, 
 
 WOODBRIDGE, FELIXSTOWE, LOWESTOFT, NORWICH, YARMOUTH, CROMER, &C. 
 
 Map and Plans. Post Svo. 12s. 
 
 HANDBOOK — KENT — Canterbury, Dover, Ramsgate, Rochester, 
 Chatham. Map and Plans. Post 8vo. 7s. 6d . 
 
 HANDBOOK— SUSSEX— Brighton, Chichester, Worthing, Hastings, 
 Lewes, Arundel. Map and Plan. Post 8vo. 6s. 
 
 HANDBOOK— SURREY AND HANTS — Kingston, Croydon, Reigate, 
 Guildford, Dorking, Boxhill, Winchester, Southampton, New Forest, 
 Portsmouth, and The Isle of Wight. Map and Plans. Post Svo. 10s. 
 
 HANDBOOK— BERKS, BUCKS, AND OXON.— Windsor, Eton, Reading, 
 Aylesbury, Henley, Oxford, Blenheim, and The Thames. Map and Plana, 
 Post 8vo. 9s. 
 
 HANDBOOK— WILTS, DORSET, AND SOMERSET— Salisbury, Chippen- 
 ham, Weymouth, Sherliorne, Wells, Bath, Bristol, Taunton, &c. Map. 
 Post Svo. 12 s. 
 
 HANDBOOK — DEVON — Exeter, Ilfracombe, Linton, Sidmouth, 
 Dawlish, Teignmouth, Plymouth, Devonport, Torquay. Maps and Plana. 
 
 J Post Svo. 7s. Gd . 
 
 HANDBOOK— CORNWALL — Launceston, Penzance, Falmouth, Thb 
 Lizard, Land’s End, &c. Maps. Post 8vo. 6s. 
 
 HANDBOOK-GLOUCESTER, HEREFORD, AND WORCESTER-Ciren- 
 cester, Cheltenham, Stroud, Tewkesbury, Leominster, Ross, Malvern, 
 Kidderminster, Dudley, Bromsgrove, Evesham. Map and Plans. Poet Svo. 
 
 HANDBOOK — NORTH WALES — Llangollen, Bangor, Carnarvon, 
 Beaumaris, Snowdon, Llanberis, Dolgelly, Cadep. Idris, Bettws-y-Cokdl 
 Conway, &c. Map. Post Svo. 7s. 
 
 HANDBOOK— SOUTH WALES— Monmouth, Llandaff, Merthyr, Valb 
 of Neath, Pembroke, Carmarthen, Tenby, Swansea, and The Wye, 4ml 
 Map. Post Svo. 7s. 
 
 HANDBOOK— NORTHAMPTONSHIRE AND RUTLAND— Northampton, 
 Peterborough, Towcester, Daventry, Market Harborough, Kettering, 
 Wellingborough, Thrapston, Stamford, Uppingham, Oakham, &c. Maps. 
 Post 8vo. 7s. Gd . 
 
 HANDBOOK— DERBY, NOTTS, LEICESTER, & STAFFORD — Matlock, 
 Bakewell, Chatsworth, The Peak, Buxton, Hardwick, Dovedale, Ash- 
 borne, Southwell, Mansfield, Retford. Burton, Belvoir, Melton Mow- 
 bray, Wolverhampton, Lichfield, Walsall, Tamworth. Map. Post 8vo. 9 s . 
 
 HANDBOOK— SHROPSHIRE AND CHESHIRE— Shrewsbury, Ludlow, 
 Bridgnorth, Oswestry, Chester, Crewe, Alderley, Stockport, Birun- 
 head. Maps and Plans. Post Svo. 6s. 
 
 July, 1S82. [Continued. 
 
MURRAY’S ENGLISH HANDBOOKS — (continued). 
 
 HANDBOOK— LANCASHIRE — Warrington, Bury, Manchester, Liter- 
 pool, Burnley, Clitheroe, Bolton, Blackburn, Wiqan, Preston, Rochdal*, 
 Lancaster, Southport, Blackpool, &c. Map. Post 8vo. 7s. 6d. 
 
 HANDBOOK— YORKSHIRE— Doncaster, Hull, Seley, Beverley, Scar- 
 borough, Whitby, Harrogate, Ripon, Leeds, Wakefield, Bradford, Halifax. 
 Huddersfield, Sheffield, Craven and the Caves, Wensleydale. Map and 
 Plans. Post 8 vo. 12*. 
 
 HANDBOOK— DURHAM AND NORTHUMBERLAND— Newcastle, Dar- 
 lington, Bishop Auckland, Stockton, Hartlepool, Sunderland, Shields, 
 Berwick, Tynemouth, Alnwick. Map. Post8vo. 9s. 
 
 HANDBOOK— WESTMORLAND AND CUMBERLAND— Lancaster, Fur- 
 ness Abbey, Ambleside, Kendal, Windermere, Coniston, Keswick, Grasmere, 
 Uls water, Carlisle, Cockermouth, Penrith, Appleby. Map. Post 8vo. 
 
 Murray’s Travelling Map of the Lake District. 3s. 6 d . 
 
 SCOTLAND. 
 
 HANDBOOK— SCOTLAND — Edinburgh, Melrose, Abbotsford, Glasgow, 
 Dumfries, Galloway, Ayr, Stirling, Arran, The Clyde, Oban, Inverary, 
 Loch Lomond, Loch Katrine and Trosachs, Caledonian Canal, Inverness, 
 Perth, Dundee, Aberdeen, Braemar, Skye, Caithness, Ross, and Suther* 
 land. Maps and Plans. Post Svo. 9s. 
 
 IRELAND. 
 
 HANDBOOK— IRELAND— Dublin, Belfast, Donegal, Galway, Wexford, 
 Cork, Limerick, Waterford, Killarney, Glengariff, Bantry. Maps and 
 Plans. Post Svo. 10s. 
 
 [In Preparation.'] 
 
 HANDBOOK— HUNTINGDON AND LINCOLN. Map. Post Svo. 
 
 HANDBOOK-HERTS, BEDS, WARWICK. Map. Post Svo. 
 
 ENGLISH CATHEDRALS. 
 
 HANDBOOK — SOUTHERN CATHEDRALS — Winchester, Salisbury, 
 Exeter, Wells, Rochester, Canterbury, Chichester, and St. Albans. With 
 130 Illustrations. 2 vols. Crown 8vo. 36s. 
 
 *** St. Albans may be had separately. 6s. 
 
 HANDBOOK — EASTERN CATHEDRALS — Oxford, Peterborough, Ely, 
 Norwich, and Lincoln. With 90 Illustrations. Crown Svo. 21s. 
 
 HANDBOOK — WESTERN CATHEDRALS — Bristol, Gloucester, Here- 
 ford, Worcester, and Lichfield. With 50 Illustrations. Crown 8vo. 16*. 
 
 HANDBOOK— NORTHERN CATHEDRALS— York, Ripon, Durham, Car- 
 lisle, Chester, and Manchester. With 60 Illustrations. Crown 8vo. 2 vols. 21*. 
 
 HANDBOOK — WELSH CATHEDRALS — Llandaff, St. David’s, Bangor, 
 and St. Asaph’s. With Illustrations. Crown 8vo. 15*. 
 
 HANDBOOK — ST. PAUL’S CATHEDRAL. Woodcuts. Crown 8vo. 10*. 6 d . 
 JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 
 
 July, 1S82.