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Is. 6d. §^ ^^-fj THE BLASTING AND QUARRYING OF STONE |§ ^^''^j^' ^or Building and other purposes, and on the Blowing up of ( Bloomfield T^oore TVlc^orial fund. 0 ^1 7^ if, the Art of Ornamental Painting, the Arrangement of Colours in "jj?,^ Apartments, and the Principles of Decorative Design. With T^^lX Remarks on the Nature and Properties of Pigments. By James t^X^^ W. Facey. 2s. 6d. J^"^ The two preceding Works, in One handsome Vol., half-hound, entitled *' HouSB vy^jf^ Decoration, Elementary and Practical," pnc« 6s. .J^^ v CROSBY LOCKWOOD & SON, 7, STATIONERS' HALL COURT, E.C. ^ i^c^ ^. q 0 ON ITANDRAILING WORKS FOR CARPENTERS & JOINERvS. Uniform tvith the present Vohtme : CIRCULAR WORK IN CARPENTRY AND JOIXERY. A Practical Treatise on Circular Work of Single and Double Curva- ture. By George CoLLiN-GS. Second Edition. With numerous Illus- trations. 12mo, 2s. 6d., cloth. TEE ELEMENTARY PRINCIFLES OF CARPENTRY. By Thomas Tredgold, C.E. Seventh Edition, thoroughly Revised and considerably Enlarged, by E, Wyxdha3i Tar^c, M.A. With Sixty-one Plates, and Porti'ait of the Author. 4to, £1 5s., cloth. The Standard WorTc on the Sulject. CARPENTRY AND JOINERY. The Elementary Principles of Carpentry. Chiefly composed fi'om the Standard Works of Thomas Tredgold, C.E, With a TBEATISE OS JOIXERYhy E. Wykdham Tarx, M. A. Eourth Edition, Revised and Extended, with numerous Illustrations. 12mo, 3s. 6d. ATLAS of Thirty-five Plates to the same, with Descriptive Letterpress. 4to, 6s. THE CARPENTER' S GJJIBE ; or, Book of Lines for Car- penters. Founded on the late Peter Nicholsox's. Standard Work. Revised by A. Ashpitel', F.S.A. With - Practical Rules on Drawing by George P^ne. Seventy-four Plates. 4to, £1 Is., cloth. THE CONSTRrCTION OF ROOFS OF WOOD AND IRON: Deduced chiefly from the Works of Robisox,* Tredgold, and Humber. By E. Wyxdham Taex, M.A. Second Edition. Revised. With nu- merous Illustrations. 12mo, Is. 6d,, cloth. THE JOINTS 2IADE AND USED BY BUILDERS in the Construction of various kinds of Engineering and Architectural Works. With especial reference to those wrought by Artiflcers in Erecting and Finishing Habitable Structures. By Wyvill J. Christy, Architect and . Surveyor. With upwards of 160 Wood Engravings. 12mo, 3s. THE STUDENT'S GUIDE TO THE PRACTICE OF MEASUEIXG AXD VALCIXG ARTIFICERS' WORKS. By Edward Dobsox. Sixth Edition, Revised, with considerable Addi- tions, by E. Wyxdham Tarx, M-.A. Crown 8vo, 7s. 6d., cloth. * CROSBY LOCKWOOD & SON, 7, Stationers' Hall Court, London, E C. A PRACTICAL TREATISE ON HANDRAILING SHOWING NEW AND SIMPLE METHODS FOR FINDING THE PITCH OF THE PLANK, DRAWING THE MOULDS, BEVELLING, JOINTING-UP, AND SQUARING THE WREATH BY GEOEGE COLLINGS AUTHOR OF " CIRCULAR WORK IN CARPENTRY AND JOINERY " SECOND EDITION, REVISED AND ENLARGED TO WHICH IS ADDED A TREATISE ON STAIRBUILDING LONDON CROSBY LOCKWOOD AND SON 7, STATIONERS' HALL COURT, LUDGATE HILL 1890 TH /Sfo LONDON : PRINTED BY J. S. VIRTUE AND CO., LIMITED, CITY ROAD. PEEFACE TO THE FIRST EDITION. The Author of the following treatise having been employed for several years as a practical Handj'ailer, and having found great difficulty in applying the methods given in the various works which have been published on the subject, has endeavoured to work out a practical method of his own, which he now presents to his fellow- work- men, with a hope that it may meet with their acceptance, and be found of practical utility in the execution of this difficult branch of Joinery. In compiling this work, the Author has con- sulted all the best authorities on the subject, and examined every source from which help was likely to be obtained. While therefore he does not lay claim to be the inventor of the whole of the system which is here given, for much of which he is indebted to those who have preceded him, he nevertheless believes that the simple method of finding the direction of the major axis for drawing the curves of the moulds has never been introduced before, and will be found to be much simpler as well as more practically useful than b2 iv PREFACTE. the equivalent method of finding the oblique planSj pitching plane, oy plane of the plank, of the other systems. The method which he has introduced of drawing the curves is also considered to be much simpler than the old system of ordinates. The mould can be got out by the one method in every case without any variation. Of course these eight Plates do not embrace all the different plans which may occur in practice, but they are representative of the majority of them ; and those who master this system will have no diflS.culty in applying it to any other cases with different arrangement of plan. It is believed that this treatise will be found sufficiently complete ; the process of bevelling, jointing-up, and then squaring the wreath being fully explained, so as to leave nothing further to be desired except that all-important thing neces- sary to efficiency, namely, j^mcfe. The Author has constantly applied this system himself in the practical execution of some of the best examples of Handrailing, and is therefore able to vouch for the correctness of the rules here laid down for getting out the moulds, by the results he has been able to obtain. GEORGE COLLINGS. PREFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION. A NEW edition of this little work being called for, some important additions have been made by the Author which will render the application of his niethod practically unlimited. Various new articles and diagrams have been introduced where such were considered desirable, including a new Plate (No. IX.) of a somewhat complicated character, with the necessary explanations and instructions. These additions, it is hoped, will considerably enhance the value and utility of this part of the present edition. A treatise on Stairbuilding, which is the companion subject of Handrailing, has also been added to the present edition. On this subject the Author does not claim to have said much that is new. He hopes, however, that the matter in question will be found to be presented in an intelligible and acceptable manner, so as to be easily understood by those hitherto unacquainted with the subject. London, 1890. b 3 CONTENTS. PART I.— HANDRAILING. PLATE I. DEAWINQ ELLIPSE AND SCROLL. PAGE 1. Method of drawing an ellipse when the axes are given . 1 2. Method of drawing an ellipse when two points on the curve are given, with its centre, and the minor axis 2 3. Mitreing the handrail to the newel cap ... 4 4. Another method of doing the same .... 5 5. Method of drawing a curtail scroll .... 6 PLATE II. HANDRAIL OF STAIRS WITH STRAIGHT FUOHTS. 6. To get out the moulds for a handrail in a staircase having straight flights above and below the landing . . . . . . ' . . 9 7. To find the correct position of the risers . . .18 8. Moulds for handrails belong to one of three distinct classes 23 PLATE III. HANDRAIL TO QUARTER SPACE OF WINDERS. 9. Method of getting out the mould in the case of a quarter space of winders connecting straight flights 28 viii CONTEJ^TS. PLATE IV. WEEATHS FOE A QUADEANT OF WIXDEES. PAGE • 10. Construction of wreaths for a quadrant of winders, a quarter-space or landing, and straight flights above and below . . . . . . . 36 1 1 . Practical method of getting out the moulds . • 42 PLATE V. WEEATHS FOE HALF-SPACE OF WINDEES. 12. "Wreaths for a half- space of winders, with a straight flight below and landing above . . . .46 13. Remarks on the lengths of balusters, to wreaths . 50 PLATE VI. WEEATH FOE OBTUSE A^^GLE WITH WINDEES. 14. Wreath for an obtuse angle with winders, and straight flights above and below . • . .63 PLATE VII. MOULDS FOE SCEOLL SHANKS. 15. Application of the method to the production of moulds for scroU shanks 56 PLATE VIII. SCEOLL SHANKS FOE WINDEES. 16. Example of the construction of a mould for a scroll shank with commode steps, or diminished flyers at bottom 60 CONTENTS. PLATE IX. HANDEAIL FOR STAIRS WITH WINDERS AT BOTTOM. PAGE 17. Staircase with curtail step at starting, and winders in the quarter -space 66 SQUARING THE WREATH. 18. Method of finishing the handrail . • . .71 PART II.— STAIRBUILDim PKELIMINARY. 1. Division of staircases into two classes, dog-legged and geometrical 77 2. Proportion of tread to riser 78 3. The story rod . . . 80 CHAPTER I. PLANS OF STAIRCASES. 4. Dog-legged stairs with close-string .... 81 5. Ditto with open, or cut, string . . . .89 6. Open newel stairs 93 7. Geometrical, or continued, staircase .... 95 CHAPTER II. THE WREATHED STRING. 8. Wreathed string for narrow ends of winders in geometrical staircase . . . . . .105 9. Ditto to quadrant at top of stairs . . . .111 10. Canvas glued at back of wreath . . . .112 X CONTENTS. 11. Strings with sinking . . . . , . 113 12. Modifications in tlie foregoing methods . . .113 13. Carriages to stairs . . . . . . .114 14. Method of making a wreathed string by hollowing out a piece of stuff 116 15. Another method 115 16. Form of string for large well-holes . . . .117 CHAPTER m. BEACKETTED STAIES. 17. Cut brackets to outer strings of stairs . . .118 18. Method of enlarging or diminishing pattern of brackets where there are winders • . .119 Part L HANDRAILING. Part I. HANDRAILING. PLATE I. DRAWING ELLIPSE AND SCROLL. 1. Figure 1 shows a practical method of de- scribing a semi-ellipse on the principle of the trammel, but without making use of that instru- ment. Draw the diameters, or axes, of the proposed ellipse, intersecting each other at right angles in the point i. Then take a slip of stiflF paper, or a thin straightedge (as Fig. la), rather longer than the half major axis of the ellipse, and mark the point A near one end of the slip. Take thereon the length a b, equal to half the minor axis, and the length a c, to half the major axis of the ellipse. In order to find points through which to draw the curve, place the point b of the straight edge on the major axis (Fig. 1), and the point c on the minor axis. Then by carrying the slip round with the points b and c always on the axes, and marking a point at a each time the slip B 2 HANDRATLING. IS moved, any number of such points in the curve Miay be found. 2. Suppose, however, that instead of the dia- meters, or axes, of the ellipse being given, we have two points on the curve, as A and d, and also the centre i and the length'of the minor axis only given, from which data it is required to determine the length and direction of the major axis. Then the foregoing method of drawing an ellipse sug- gests a ready way of doing this. For instance, provide a square, as h j kl (Fig. 15), of any stiff thin material, and at or near the middle of the side JL, draw the line i g at right angles to J L. Place this square with the point i to the given centre i of the required ellipse (supposing of course that the diameters and curve are not there), and lay the line J l of the square as nearly as possible in what is supjoosed to be the direction of the required major axis. Now apply ab, the given half minor axis (on the slip Fig. la), from the two given points A and d, making the points B on the slip to lie upon the edge J l of the square at B and e. Prolong a b and d e from each point to cut I G in c and f. Then if A c and d f are equal, J l is the direction of the major axis, and A c or D F will be its half length. If at the first trial it is found that A c and d f are not equal, then move the edge j l of the PLATE I. B 2 DRAWING AN ELLIPSE. square round until they become so, keeping i to the given centre of the ellipse, b oyer j l, and a to the given points. An ordinary rule, such as is used by joiner?, will serve the purpose of finding the direction and length of the axes. And for a square, if for use in a joiner's shop, nothing better can be had than a wide piece of thin board with a line drawn in the middle at right angles to one end. We will suppose that Fig. 1 is drawn to a scale of f -inch to a foot, when the major axis will measure 2 feet, and the minor axis 1 foot 4 inches, half of which will be 12 inches and 8 inches respectively. Lay down the centre and the two points a and d at their relative distances from each other, full size. Place the square with the end of the line in the middle to the given centre, then apply a rule from the points a and d, being careful to let each point be in an exact line with the edge f the rule. Lay the square so that 8 inches measured from each point, as directed, shall be exactly over the end J l, and the rule will cut the line in the middle at 12 inches from a or D. If then a line be drawn across the end j l of the square for the direction of the major axis, and the curve described as before stated, it will be found to pass through the two given points A 4 HANDRAILING. and D. Thus wheii these two Imes A c and d f, drawn as directed, are found equal in length, each will equal half the longer diameter or major axis, and the end of the square will give its direction. The method described above is the one we propose to use for drawing the moulds throughout this system of handrailing. It is very simple, sufficiently correct, and can be applied with very little trouble. We shall explain hereafter how to find the centre and the two points a and d, and we know from the principles of geometry that the curve to be drawn through the two points should be elliptical, because they are in the circumference of an oblique section of a circular cylinder. The length of half the minor axis for the elliptic curve will always be equal to the radius of the quarter or half circle over which the two points are situated. 3. Fig. 2 shows how to obtain the angle for mitreing the rail into a newel cap. The section on the edge of the cap should be the same as the rail to be mitred into it. Draw a section and plan of the rail, also draw the plan of the circumference of the cap. Then take the greatest distance to which the moulding is worked on (he under or upper side of the rail, as MITREING TO NEWEL CAP. 5 the case may be, and draw a line parallel to the edge at this distance. Draw also at the same distance another circle concentric with the outer circumference of the cap. Then from the intersection of the outside of the rail with the outside of the cap, and through the point where the inner parallel lines meet, draw the mitre. This will be found as near an approximation as possible without haying recourse to a circular mitre to get both rail and cap to look alike. If the mitre is carried in further than this, as is sometimes the case, the section of the cap will have to be found on this mitre line, and while the vertical projections of the moulding will remain the same, the horizontal will be increased considerably, producing a thinner appearance altogether on the cap than what the rail has. 4. Fig. 3 shows a method of cutting the mitre in the cap by using a piece of scantling one side of which is planed true. Draw a line in the centre of the width, and on each side of it set off the distance 1, 2 (Fig. 2). Then make a cut with a saw to these last two lines, and mark the width of the rail on the extreme edge of the cap, which should then be fastefied to the scantling by driving a screw through the centre line into the centre of the cap. 6 ha:ndrailing. Place one of the marks denoting the outside of the rail opposite one of the cuts, and make a saw cut to the required depth. Then turn the cap round until the other outside of the rail is brought opposite the other cut, and make another saw cut to complete the mitre. Another method is to use one cut only in the piece, and to drive the screw through at the bottom of this cut into the cap at the point where the mitres meet. This plan is perhaps the least troublesome. The only objection to it is that the mitre cannot be cut quite home either way until the cap is released from the block, owing to the screw being in the w^ay of the saw. 5. Figs. 4 and 5 show a handy method of draw- ing a curtail scroll. In Fig. 6, which is a magnified representation of Fig. 4, the width A b is divided into eight equal parts. Make a d equal to one of these parts and at right angles to a b, and join B D. Place one foot of the compasses at c, the centre of a b, extending the other foot to touch the line b d, and draw the arc, cutting a b in the point 1. Then 1 is the centre of the first or largest quadrant of the scroll. Draw 1 e square to AB, and from 1 as a centre draw the large quadrant be. Draw d 2 parallel to ab. The point 2 is then the second centre. In order to find the remaining centres, from e draw e f square DRAWING A CURIAIL SCROLL. 7 to B D. From 1, through the point where b d and E F cross each other, draw 1 3. From 3, draw 3 4, parallel to 1 e. Then draw 2 4, and from where 3 4 cuts this last, draw 4 5 parallel to A B, 5 6 parallel to 1 e, 6 7 parallel to 4 5, and so on until a sufficient number of centres are found from which to complete the scroll. The advantage of this method of drawing a scroll is that the width A B may be varied to suit any width of rail. For a wide one it may be increased, and for a narrow one diminished. If another quadrant or part of a quadrant is required, it is only necessary to increase its radius in the same proportion as the first radius is to the second, and then set the foot of the compasses at this distance from b, on the line A b, as shown by the dotted lines on Fig. 4. A scroll being once drawn as directed, the width, A B, may be reduced or enlarged as re- quired by using the same mould. Thus, mark off the width by drawing a straight line of the re- quired length across the scroll wherever it will apply, and from the point where this line cuts the outer curve draw a line representing the side of the straight rail as a tangent to the curve, that is, at right angles to the radius at that point. In the scroll before us this point may be situated anywhere (according as the length of line or B 3 8 HANDRAILING. width determines) on the outer curve between B and D, and also beyond b on the dotted curve (Fig. 4). Several other methods of drawing scrolls or spirals will be found in a treatise on Practical Geometry for the Architect, Engineer, Surveyor, and Mechanic,'^ by E. Wyndham Tarn, Architect.* * Crosby Lockwood and Son. ^ PLATE II. HANDRAIL OF STAIRS WITH STRAIGHT FLIGHTS. 6. This Plate presents a very simple case in continued handrailing. The lines necessary for this pair of wreaths might be obtained from the pitchboard. We think, however, that it will be better to leave the pitchboard alone for the present, and explain the method taught in the following pages as fully as possible in its ap- plication to this simple case, instead of leaving it until we come to a more complicated one. Fig. 1 is the plan of a well-hole of a staircase, with straight flights above and below the landing. The rail is shown the whole width up to the springing line of the curved part ; beyond that the centre only is laid down with the tangents to the half circle, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, and the diagonal, 1 3. The riser lines, landing, and starting are not drawn to the centre of the circle : the distance from riser landing to 2, and from 4 to riser starting, is made equal to haK the going or tread of one step. By this arrangement the rail has a 10 HANDRAILING. better appearance tliaii wheii more of it is thrown on the level. Fig. 2 is the development, or stretch-out in elevation, of the centre line and tangents of Fig. 1. Draw the landing with a step above and below, erect the perpendiculars to coincide with the points 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, of Fig 1. The distances from 1 to 2, from 2 to 3, and so on, will then be equal in each figure. Draw the under side of the rail resting on the angles of the flyers, and at the distance of half the thickness of the rail draw the centre line, and continue the upper one downwards to cut the vertical line 4 at r ; continue the lower one upwards to cut the vertical line 2 at b, and draw the horizontal line B F. The centre joint at c will be vertical, owing to B F being level. Draw the upper and lower joints square to the centre line. From a, where the centre pitch cuts the vertical line 1, draw a e horizontal. From e set off e d equal to the diagonal 1 3 (Fig. 1). Draw d c, then this line will be the diagonal for the mould, and when placed to its proper pitch on the plan, will lie over 1 3 from end to end. Fig. 3 shows the method of drawing the mould. Make ab (Fig. 3) equal to ab (Fig. 2), and draw B c at right angles to b a and equal to b c (Fig. 2). Then ac, the hypothenuse of the right-angled PLATE II. STAIRS WITH STRAIGHT FLIGHTS. 11 triangle a b c, is equal to d c (Fig. 2). Prolong the line A B until the distance a k (Fig. 3) is equal to the distance a k (Fig. 2). Draw the end of the mould square to A b ; through a and c draw A G and c G parallel to b c and A b respectively; g will then be the centre of the elliptic curves of the mould. The line b c being level, the angle b will be square, the bottom end of the mould will therefore be square, and the same width as the rail. Draw the width of the rail parallel to a b. To find the bevel and width for the top end, take a b (Fig. 3) in the compasses, and with one foot at any point 6 (Fig. 1) on centre line of rail, draw the arc cutting the centre line of well-hole at 7. Draw 6 7, and this gives the bevel. Parallel to 6 7 set ofi* half the width of the rail, and 7 8 will be half the width of the mould. Repeat this distance on each side of c (Fig. 3), and this gives the point to which we have to draw the quarter-ellipses of the mould. Or, a c being the width of the rail, the lines a b, c dy drawn parallel to A c, will give b d its width at the centre of the wreath ; and G a, g 6 will be the semi-axes of the ellipse for the outside of the rail, G c and G d the semi-axes of the ellipse for the inside, b c being level, A g and c g will be the directions of the diameters. G is the centre coinciding with the centre of the half circle in 12 HANDRAIIJNG. Fig. 1. Therefore from g to the inside and out- side of the mould on each diameter will be half the shorter and half the longer axes respectively. If now we mark off these distances from the end of a thin straight edge, and carry it round, keeping one of the points on each diameter (as shown by Fig. 1, Plate I.), any number of points can be obtained through which the curves of the mould may be correctly drawn. Draw the. lines a b and B c opposite each other on both sides of the mould, and square the springing a g across the inside edge. This will mark the termination of the straight part and the commencement of the circular, and will be made use of when the mould is applied to the plank. Both the half wreaths being alike, there is no necessity to get out a separate mould for the upper one. Fig. 4 shows the application of this mould to the plank for the purpose of working it to the twist or heveUing (we shall throughout this work call it bevelling). The piece is first cut out square to the shape of the mould, leaving the stuff full all round, and one side planed true. It will be found better to have two moulds for bevelling, one for each side of the piece, to supply the place of the line that will be lacking by reason of the piece being cut out square. In Fig. 4 there are two moulds shown with the STAIRS WITH STRAIGHT FLIGHTS. 13 piece between them, as it would be in practice for bevelling. It is supposed to be placed with its convex or outside edge downwards, and we are looking at the concave or inside edge, the end or centre joint c and the thin concave edges of the moulds, the upper ends of which are shaded. The lines a b and b c should be drawn on both sides of the piece, to coincide with those on the mould when the edges of both are even. Square c across the centre joint, as shown by the dotted line, and through the centre e of the thickness draw the bevel c c, the same as found at 6 7 (Fig. Ij. From CO (bevelled line) draw another line on the face of the piece parallel to bc. Slide the mould on the top side upwards, so that the point c may be moved from the square dotted line until it lays over CO, the bevelled line, keeping ab on the mould over its corresponding line on the piece. Slide the mould on the under side in a similar manner the reverse way, so that the point c may be under the bevelled line cc. Fasten both moulds to the piece with small screws, so that the holes made by the screws may be taken out in squaring the wreath. Take off the superfluous stuff inside until a straight edge applied in a per- pendicular direction will touch the edges of the moulds all round. Take off the stuff outside similarly, leaving it a little full. 14 HANDRAILING. Before taking the moulds off tlie piece, draw the line marked springing'^ from the point where A G is squared across the edge of the mould. This line is made use of when jointing the wreath to the straight rail, and should always be perpendicular when the wreath is placed to its proper inclination. Both wreaths being bevelled as above, the easing may be roughly made, that is, some of the super- fluous stuff may be taken off at top and bottom ; or, in other words, the wreaths may be roughly squared, but should not be finished until the joints have all been made and bolted together. For the lower joint a bevel should be set with its stock to the under side of the straight rail (Fig. 2), and the blade made to coincide with the vertical or springing line, 1 A, or the hypothenuse and rise of the pitchboard. Then, in applying this bevel, hold the stock to the under side of the straight rail, and make the joint so that the spring- ing line on the wreath shall coincide with the edge of the blade. The top joint is made in a similar way, and by using the bevel as directed, the springing line will be brought to its proper direction when the joint is bolted together. Or the pitchboard may be applied with the rise to the springing, and the line of the straight rail marked on the side of the wreath by the hypothenuse. STATES WITH STRAIGHT FLTGHTS. 15 This way of obtaining the bevel will be found to apply in every case with or without winders, the stock being held to the under side of the straight rail and the blade made to coincide with the springing line on wreath. To make the centre joint, a three-inch plank should be used, one side planed true and the edges shot square. The width should be equal to the distance between the inside edges of the rail in Fig. 1. Ascertain how much the rail rises on the under side from 1 to 5 (Fig. 1), as shown on Fig. 2. From the point where the under side of the rail cuts the vertical line 1 a, square over to the vertical line 5 ; then from this point to that where the under side of the upper rail cuts the same line will be the rise of the rail on the springing from 1 to 5 (Fig. 1). Mark this rise on the face of the plank. Take the first wreath, and plane the joint square to the line b c and face of the stufi*. Handscrew this wreath to one edge of the plank, making the springing line to coincide with the face. Place the point where the under side of the lower rail cuts the springing to the bottom line on the plank. Then take the top wreath and hold it to the opposite edge of the plank. Keep the springing to the face, and fit the joint until the point where the upper rail cuts the springing is brought to the second line, or 16 HANDRAILING. the rise on tlie plank. This process may appear tedious, but in practice it gives very little trouble, while it insures perfect accuracy in the result. The annexed figures, a and B, show the plank with a pair of wreaths as applied to it when jointed up at the centre joint. Fig. a is the plan with end of plank shaded and the wreaths going round the face in a semicircle. Fig. B is an elevation of the face side of the plank with the wreaths in position, the straight part of the lower wreath on its under side being placed to the line r/, and the straight part of the upper wreath — also on its under side — being placed to the line b, the distance between a and h being equal to the rise as shown in Fig. 2, Plate II. This will be found to be a most expeditious and correct method of making the centre joint in a pair of wreaths, however large or small the well- Fij.B. STAIRS WITH STRAIGHT FTJGHTS. 17 hole may be. It is the only joint presenting any difficulty in a plan of this kind. The straight- ends, it will be seen, are made to lie in the right direction, both sideways, and on the top and under sides. Besides which, if the end for the joint of the lower wreath is planed true, and the piece be then hand-screwed to the edge of the plank as directed, the end of the upper one can be fitted to it with an exactitude not to be surpassed by any other method. For large circular well-holes where the wreath may be in several lengths it is also the safest and best plan to make (roughly but truly) a cylinder, or semi-cylinder, as the case may require, and of sufficient length. The heights should then be set out on this in the manner similar to that given in the foregoing directions. By this means the ends of wreaths beyond the casings at floors and land- ings may be made to lie in a true and correct position, and to their proper heights. This method of determining the rise of the rail on the springing line will be found to apply in every case. In making the top and the bottom joints the centre of the rail is supposed to be placed to the centre of the wreath ; this, however, may be varied either way a little, so as to bring the rise or height correct. To obtain the length of the rail, a rod about 18 HATsDRAILING. 2 inches wide should be used ; this should be laid edgewise on the nosing line of the flyers, or parallel to them, and the springing or vertical, line marked on top and bottom. "Where a scroll is used, the face of second riser at bottom and springing at top should be marked on the rod. If we have a scroll and two or three commode steps, then the face of third or fourth riser, as the case may be, and springing. Then this rod should be held to the under side of the rail when jointing up, and the springing lines on the wreath and those on the rod made to range in the same perpendicular direction. It may perhaps be thought that we have entered somewhat too minutely into details for such a simple case as the above * but we have done so because the method of proceeding as here explained will be found to apply throughout in every case, except that a slight variation will be necessary for finding the centres in obtuse and acute angles ; and when it is desirable to take in more than a quarter of a circle. 7. In the example we have just been considering (Plate II.) the rise and going of the treads and the width of the well-hole are such that the raking centre lines of the rail cut the perpendi- culars 2 and 4, Fig. 2, in points b and f at the same distance above the landing, and by joining STATKS WITH STRAIGHT FLIGHTS. 19 these pomts as directed, a perfectly horizontal line is produced which is the one required. This may not be the case once in ten, or even a larger number of times, with plans of a similar descrip- tion. If the riser lines of this plan were placed at the springing, the point b in Fig. 2 would be higher and point r lower than is there shown to be the case; and if these two points were so placed and connected by a straight line, it would be considerably out of the horizontal, and conse- quently the pieces for the wreath would be thrown out of their proper position. A novice in this kind of work finding this to be the case might be at a loss to know how to proceed, and might pro- bably condemn the system as being incorrect. There is, however, a method — illustrated in the accompanying Figs, c, d, e, r — by which the correct position of the 1 Fi risers may be ascer- tained to a very great nicety. But let it first be observed that the raking centre lines of the straight rail should always cut the central horizontal line, drawn at its proper height above the landing, in the perpendiculars 2 b and 4 f, as shown in Fig. 2, Plate II. 20 HANDRAILING. In Fig. c let tlie semicircle a c ehe the plan of the centre of the rail, and enclosed by the tangents ab, b c dj d e. Unfold the tangents as Sit a b c d e on Fig. D. Draw the landing line, / g, and at the proper distance above it (this distance should Land ^^9 ^. be about three or four inches to the under side of the rail), the centre line of the wreath, h j\ cut- ting the perpendiculars b and d in points h andy. From h draw h k, and from j draw / / to the rake as given by the hypothenuse of the pitch-board. From h k and j I set r Landin(j ^ off half the thickness of the rail downwards, and draw the parallel lines as shown. Then apply the rise of the pitch - board from the landing, as at g m, to cut the under side of the upper rail in m; and g m will be the proper position for riser 3 on plan Fig. c. From / let fall the perpendicular / and this STAIRS WITH STRAIGHT FLIGHTS. 21 line will give the correct position of the riser 2 on Fig. c. This method will give the position of risers in all plans of a similar description. In some there will be found no need to use it. In others it will not only give the position of the risers as indi- cated, but it will also improve the appearance of the rail. No more trouble need be experienced in making the stairs than if the risers were placed at the springing lines, and an altogether better looking job may be the result. Figs. E and f show the same method as applied to finding the position of the last riser at landing on to a floor. The similarity of those two Figs, to the first or lower half of Figs, c and d is so manifest that a detailed description is not' consi- dered necessary. In starting from the level, as oflfa floor on to a flier, the upper half of Figs, c and d would apply. The procedure in both cases being exactly the 0 22 HANDKAILING. same, separate figures and description need not be given. The thickness of stuflF necessary for wreaths, may be stated generally to be the width of the rail. Thus, for a rail 3 in. by 2^ in. the plank for the wreaths would require to be 3 in. thick. Where there is an easing on the upper or lower end of the rail, as in Plates III., IV., Y., and YI., stuff of the same thickness as the rail is wide will also be required for cutting them out of. This will he found to be the best rule to follow generally, except for a quantity of straight rail, as nothing need be wasted by cutting even a per- fectly straight piece of rail out of the extra thick- ness of plank. It is sometimes said that the plank for the wreaths need be no thicker than* the rail. This, perhaps, may be near enough in work of very little importance, and where the workman may be contented to give the wreaths a crippled and unsightly appearance, as he is .sometimes compelled to do for the sake of saving a very small quantity of material. This, how- ever, should never be done except where the work is very indifferent indeed, or stuff of the requisite thickness cannot be obtained readily when wanted. But when this can be procured it should be at the least half an inch thicker than the rail. By this means there will be a little THREE CLASSES OF HANDRAILS. 23 etulF to spare, whereby the easing in the rail may be continued along the wreath as far as may be necessary to make the whole assume a graceful form and look pleasing to the eye. Cases some- times occur where it is necessary to have the plank as much as an inch thicker than the rail. In some instances the wreath has a very steep pitch running up in an almost perpendicular direction over the ends of winders that have a very small well-hole. For cases of this description, and also for scroll eyes and shanks where there are commode steps, extra thickness of stuff will be absolutely neces- sary. It will also be the cheapest in the end, as by using it a far better looking resu-lt may be pro- duced, and much time saved in the working. The matter, however, is one that must be left to the judgment of the individual workman to a great extent, as no hard and fast rule can be laid down. But the foregoing remarks will be found to apply generally as a guide. Classification of Moulds. 8 Perhaps it may help to render the study oi the following Plates more interesting, and make them more easy of comprehension by the unini- tiated, if we state that every mould according to this system will be found to belong to one of three c 2 24 HANDRAILINO. classes, with an occasional exception similar to that shown in Plate IX. . The first and simplest is that represented on Plate II. All that is necessary to produce a mould of this class is to lay down the centre lines A B and B c at right angles to each other, and parallel to them cg and a g (Fig. 3). If then we mark off half the width on each side of a and c as directed, a g and c g at once give the direction and lengths of semi-diameters for drawing the curves of the mould. The accompanying Fig. p is a facsimile of Fig. 3, Plate IL, without the ^ ^ diagonal and curves, a b and I B c are the centre lines, and a g ^ ^~~c~ and CG the diameters. The top mould on Plate V. and the mould T.. for scroll shank on Plate VII. Fig. p= also belong to this class. An example of the second class, and almost as simple as the foregoing, is supplied by the bottom mould of Plate lY. This kind of wreath will never present any difficulty. The diagonal a c is drawn first (Fig. 3). Then a b and b c, and parallel to these a k and c k. Then the direction for the longer diameter will always be parallel to the diagonal a c through the centre k. Having obtained these lines, we next find the half widths, THREE CLASSES OF HAIS^DRAILS. 25 and lay them down on each side of a b and b c. This gives the points M, n, o, p, to which the curves of the mould should be drawn. The annexed Fig. q is a facsimile of Fig. 3, Plate IV., without the curves, a b and B c being the centre lines, c k and a k are parallel to them. K is the centre of the elliptic curve. The line parallel to a c through k is the long diameter. m, n, o, p are the points on c k and A K, to which the ellipses should be drawn, and D E is the joint line. Figs. 3 on Plates IV. and V. belong to this class. The third class is represented on Plate III., and this is the only kind of mould where the use of the square is necessary for finding the direction of the diameters. The same method is followed as in the last example until the centre of the curve is obtained. We then apply the square, and find the direction as explained. The accompanying Fig. r is a facsimile of Fig. 3, Plate III., without the curves, &c. a c is the diagonal, a b and b c the centre lines ; n w and s w are drawn parallel to them, m, n, p, s are the points to which the curves should be 28 HANDKAILING. drawn, w is tte centre of the ellipses, and d e the direction of the longer diameter. Fig. 4, Plate IV., Fig. 3, Plate VL, and Fig. 3, Plate VIIL, belong to this class. It will be seen that the finding ' of the ■ direction of this major axis, or longer dia- meter of the ellipse, is the same thing as finding the ohlique 2)lane, 'pitching plane, or plane of the plank in other systems of handrailing, and is done in a more easy and less intricate manner. In other systems the plan and mould figures have to be connected in a particular way, so as to obtain the required pitch • for the plank. In this system, on the contrary, ' each figure is separate and distinct, thus rendering them clearer and more easily understood. And if we have succeeded in making the use of the square for determining the direction of the diameters understood, no difficulty whatever should be experienced in describing the moulds. If we examine Fig. v somewhat further, and THREE CLASSES OF HANDRAILS. 27 compare it with Pigs, q and r, we shall see that this simple rectineal figure contains every essen- tial requisite for the moulds as here constructed, and also that the same general method is ad- hered to in the projection of all three, and there- fore throughout this entire system of lines. Thus A B and B c are similar lines in all three figures, and lie over exactly the length of their respective plans from end to end. So also of the parallels to those line If a diagonal were drawn from A to c in Fig. p, it would be similar to and answer the same purpose as the diagonals of the other two figures. Iho bevels and widths are obtained similarly in all three figures (those for Fig. V being exactly the same in principle as for the other two). The centres g, k, w are all per- pendicularly over the centres of their respective plans. And lastly, the curved edges of the moulds are all drawn to and finish against the parallels to A B and B c. PLATE III. HANDRAIL TO QUARTER-SPACE OF WINDERS. 9. This plate shows the method of getting out the mould for a handrail where there is a quarter- space of winders connecting straight flights. Fig. 1 represents the plan of such an arrange- ment, and the whole width of the rail is laid down to the springing lines of the curve. In the quarter circle the centre only of the rail is drawn, and this is enclosed by the tangents 1 2 and 2 3. Fig. 2 is the development, or stretch-out in elevation, of the centre line and the tangents of Fig. 1. Draw the vertical lines at the same distance from each other as the points 1, 2, 3 of Fig. 1 ; also the risers as they occur on the centre line, and the tangents of the plan, with the flyers above and below. The pitches for the straight rail are drawn as previously described, the under side resting on the angles of the flyers, and the centre at the distance of half the thickness of the rail. Continue the centre of the upper rail in a straight Kue to PLATE in. QUARTER-SPACE OF WINDERS. 29 B, and from b continue it downwards to meet the centre of the lower rail, so as to form a fair easing on the same. In cutting out this easing, the stuff should be left full all round until the wreath is jointed to it. • The under side of the lower rail is prolonged to the vertical line 1 a (Fig. 2), as shown by the dotted line. From the point where this dotted line cuts 1 A square over to the springing, 3 c. Then from the point where this square line cuts 3 c to that at which the under side of the upper rail cuts the same line, will be the rise or height at which the wreath should be jointed to the lower rail. The diagonal for the mould is obtained as before described. Thus from the point a, where the centre pitch cuts the springing, draw a e square to 1 A. From B set off e d equal to 1 3 (Fig. 1), and draw D c. Then do will be the diagonal sought. In order to get out the mould, we proceed as described before. Make ac (Fig. 3) equal to D c (Fig. 2). Take ab (Fig. 2) in the com- passes as a radius, and with one foot at a (Fig. 3) draw an arc. Again, take as a radius b c (Fig. 2), and with one foot at c (Fig. 3), draw another arc cutting the former one at b. Draw a b and B c, and prolong them so as to make the dis- tances A 8 and c 5, from a and c to the ends of the mould, equal to the distances from a and c to the 30 HANDKAILT^G. joint in Fig. 2. Draw the end of tlie mould square to these lines. Through a and c draw A w and c w parallel to b c and a b. Then will be the centre of the elliptic curves of the mould. To find the bevel and width for the upper end of the mould, draw a a at right angles to bc, and with the distance A as a radius, and the point 4 (Fig. 1) anywhere on the middle line of the rail as a centre, draw an arc cutting 1 5 at 5. Join 4, 5 ; then this will'be the required bevel. Parallel to 4 5, set off half the width of the rail, and 5 6 will be half the width of the mould. Repeat this distance on each side of b c (Fig. 3), and draw parallel lices to cut the springing cw in the points M, m. For finding the width of the lower end of the rail at A, draw c c at right anj;;les to cw; and with the distance c c as a radius, and any point 7 (Fig. 1) on the centre of the rail as a centre, draw an arc cutting 1 8 at the point 8. Join 7, 8 ; then this will be the required bevel. Parallel to 7 8, set off half the width of the rail, and 8 9 will be half the width of the mould. Repeat this distance on each side of A b (Fig. 3), and draw parallel lines to cut the springing A w ia s and p. Otherwise, by drawing m s and m f parallel to A c, w© find the points s and v on th^ QUARTER-SPACE OF WINDERS. 31 line A w. Then if we draw s s and vp parallel to B A, we get the width of the rail. This gives the points to which we have to draw the curves of the mould, two for the inner and two for the outer ellipse. The centre w of these ellipses has already been found, and the length of half the shorter diameters or minor axes will be equal to the radii on plan (Fig. 1). From these we have now to determine the direction and length of the longer diameters or major axes. Let F G H J be the square for this purpose (as described in Plate L), with k l at right angles to J F. Place this square so that the point K at the end of the line k l shall fall on the point w, the centre of the ellipse, and that J f shall lie in the supposed direction of its longer diameter, m and p are the two points on the inner curve of the rail through which the ellipse has to be drawn. Now let M N and p q be half the shorter diameter (equal to radius for inside of rail on plan), and prolong M N and p q to cut k l in the points o and R. Then if m o and p r are equal, j f will be the direction of the greater diameter, and m o or p r will be half the length of it. If at the first trial MO and p R are not equal, we must move J r round until they become so, always keeping the point K 32 HANDRATI TNG. to the centre w, and the points n and q on the edge J F of the square. A thin straight edge, with the half shorter diameter marked on one edge as shown at m'N (Fig. 3r/), affords the most ready way of doing this. Then m is placed alternately to the points M and p, and N is made to lie on j f, which is placed so that the continuation of the lines m n and p q to K L shall be equal, j f then gives the direction for drawing the longer diameter. Or better still, let an ordinary two-foot rule be held with the edge to the points M and p, and the square so placed that the distances of the point where the rule cuts k l from m and p shall be equal, keeping the points n and q denoting the half shorter diameter over j f. To find half the longer diameter for the outside curve, take the radius for the outside of the rail on plan (Fig. 1) in the compasses, and placing one foot at s (Fig. 3), draw an arc cutting the longer axis at t. Draw s t u, then s u will be the half longer axis sought. It should be observed that the direction of the diameter once found answers for the inside, the centre, and the outside of the mould. It may be found from any one of these three by em- ploying the radius of plan corresponding to whichever we may prefer using, which radius QUARTER-SPACE OF WINDERS. 33 will always be half the shorter axis for the elliptic curve. Having found the direction of the axes, the process necessary to complete the mould is so simple as to need no further description. The application of this mould to the plank for bevelling the wreath will be somewhat diflFerent to that on the preceding Plate, owing to there being two pitches and two bevels. The piece is first cut out square to the shape of • the mould, and the upper side planed true. The lines A B and u c are then drawn on the piece to coincide with those on the mould when the edges of both are even. Square these lines across each end, and through the centre of the thickness draw the bevels 5 5 and 8 8, the same as found at 5 and 8 (Fig. 1). Then from the points where the bevels across the ends cut the face, draw on the piece lines parallel to a b and b c. The piece is now ready for bevelling, and for this purpose it is necessary to have two moulds. Place the mould on the upper side in such a position that ab and bc of the mould may be over, and in the same direction as the lines on the piece that are drawn parallel to a b and b c from the bevels across the ends. The mould for the under side is applied in an exactly similar way, the lines of the mould being 34 HANDRAILINa. placed over those on the piece that are drawn parallel to a b and b c, the diflference being that one is moved upwards and the other down- wards. If this is clearly understood, there should be no difficulty in bevelling this or any other wreath. The ends of the piece are shown at Fig 3, with the square and bevelled lines drawn on. The ends of the moulds are also shown in the position they should occupy for bevelling the wreath. Fasten the moulds to the piece and take off the superfluous stuff until a straight edge applied in a perpendicular direction will touch the edges of the moulds all round, leaving the stuff a little full on the outside. Before taking the moulds off, mark the springing across the inside edge, as on the preceding Plate. In jointing this wreath to the lower rail with the easing, the centres of each are supposed to be placed opposite to each other. This, however, may be varied a little either way, so as to bring the height correct. The bevel is obtained as before described (page 14), the stock being held to the under side of the straight rail and the blade made to coincide with the vertical or springing line 1 A (Fig. 2). Then in making the joint, hold the stock to the under QUARTER-SPACE OF WINDERS. 35 side of the straight rail, and fit the jomt until the springing line on the wreath coincides with the edge of the blade. The top joint is made in a similar manner and with the same bevel. The casings here, as in every other case, on both wreath and rail may be roughly made, but should, not be finished until the joints have been completed and the parts bolted together. PLATE IV. WREATHS FOR A QUADRANT OF WINDERS. 10. This plate shows the construction of wreaths for a quadrant of winders, a quarter- space or landing, and straight flights above and below. Fig. 1 shows the plan of the well-hole, enclosing the half circle with the tangents 1, 2, 3, 4, 6. Fig. 2 is the development in elevation of Fig. 1, the distances from 1 to 2, from 2 to 3, and so on, being the same in both figures. The riser lines are set out in the development as they occur on the centre line and tangents of Fig. 1. Draw the under side of the straight rail resting on the angles of the flyers, and at the distance of half the thickness of the rail set out the centre line. Continue the upper one in a straight direction to cut the vertical line 4 at d, and from this point draw the centre downwards to meet the lower centre, so as to form a fair easing on the straight rail. Draw the joints square to the pitches. Continue the under side of the lower straight rail to cut the vertical line 1, and from this point PLATE IT. QUADRANT OF WINDERS. 87 square over to the springing 5, thus obtaining the rise or height to which the wreaths should be jointed to the lower rail. From A and c draw the horizontal lines A g and c J. Set off from g and j, g f and J h, equal to 1 3 or 3 5 (Fig. 1). Draw f c and h e (Fig. 2) ; these will be the diagonals for the moulds. Fig. 3 shows the method of drawing the lower mould. Make a c equal to r o (Fig. 2) ; then take A B or B c (Fig. 2) in the compasses, and with one foot at a and at c (Fig. 3), draw arcs cutting each other at b. Draw a b and 13 c, and parallel to them draw c k and a k. Then k is the centre of the ellipse. Prolong a b, and make the distance from A to the end of the mould equal to the distance from A to the joint in Fig 2. Draw the end of the mould square to a b. Both pitches of this wreath being alike, only one bevel is required. Draw a a at right angles to B c, and with a a as a radius and tlie point G (Fig. 1) as centre, draw an arc cutting the centre- line at 7. Draw 6 7, and this gives the bevel Parallel to 6 7 set off half the width of the rail, and 7 8 will be half the width of the mould. Repeat the distance 7 8 on each side of a b (Fig. 3), and draw parallel lines to cut the springing line A K in the points o and p. Also repeat the same distance on each side of b c, and draw parallel? 38 HANDRAILINO. to cut c K in M and n. Then where these parallel distances to B c cut c k, will be the points at this end of the mould to which the elliptic curve should be drawn. m and n being these points, the out- side elliptic curve will extend to isi, while the inside curve will not reach beyond m. Thus taking the length of the mould from o to M and from p to N, it will be a quarter of an ellipse over a quarter of a circle inside and out. If this mould (leaving the curves for the moment out of con- sideration) were placed to its pitch over its plan (Fig. 1), the four lines forming the rhombus would lie over the four lines which on the plan form the square, a B would be over 1 2 ; b c over 2 3 ; A K and c K over the two opposite sides ; a c over the diagonal 1 3 ; and if we were to draw the quarter ellipse in the centre of the mould from a to c, this quarter ellipse would lie over the quarter circle 1 3. Similarly the inside and outside quarter ellipses extending from o to m and from p to N would lie over the inside and outside quarter circles of the rail plan ; and if a vertical joint were allowed, c ic would be the joint line for the mould, which is exactly similar to one produced by the system of ordinites, the plank having the same pitch. But it is neither allowed nor desirable, the butt joint being the more easily made, and looking by far the best when executed. QUADRANT OF WINDERS. 39 The direction for the longer diameter in this and all similar cases will be parallel to A c through K, and the shorter axis at right angles to it in the line k b. This is owing to both pitches of the wreath being the same. The lengths of half the shorter diameters for both inside and outside curves will be equal to the radius for the inside and outside of the rail on plan. To find half the longer axis for the inside curve, take half the shorter one in the compasses, and with one foot at o draw an arc cutting the longer axis at Q. Through q draw o q r, meeting b k in r, and o Rwill be half the longer diameter sought. The major axis of the outer curve is found in the same way from p or n. Now draw the quarter ellipses in the manner before described. Then draw the joint through c square to b c, and from the point w^here this joint line is cut by the convex curve, set oflf the whole width for this end of the mould towards the concave rather full, and continue the inside curve to this point, and the mould will be complete. Fig. 4 shows the method of drawing the upper mould, c E is made equal to h e (Fig. 2), c d and D E are alike in both figures, and drawn as before. E L and c L are parallel to c D and D e. Then l is the centre of the elliptic curve. The distance 40 HANDRAILING. from E to the end of the mould is made equal to ' the distance from E to the joint (Fig. 2). To find the bevel and width for the top end E, draw c c at right angles to d e, and with the distance cc as a radius and the point 9 (Fig. 1) as a centre, draw an arc cutting the centre of rail at 10. Draw 9 10, and this will be the required bevel. Parallel to 9 10, set off half the width of the rail, and 10 11 will be half the width of the Diould. Eepeat this distance on each side of D e (Fig. 4), and draw parallel lines as before. For the lower end c, draw e e at right angles to D c, and with e ^ as a radius and the point 12 (Fig. 1) as a centre, draw an arc cutting the centreline of rail at 13 ; then the line 12 13 will be the bevel required. Parallel to it set off half the width of the rail, and 13 14 will be half the width of the mould. Repeat this distance on each side of c d (Fig. 4), and draw parallels to cut c l ; then the points where these parallels to c d cut c l will be those, together with the points on e l, from which to find the direction and length of the diameter. These are obtained and the curves described as on Plate III. Draw the joint through c square to CD, and from the point where this line is cut by the convex curve, mark off the whole width towards the concave, and continue the inside curve to this point. QUADRANT OF WINDERS. 41 The remarks which we made as to the quarter elh'pses of the lower mould apply also to this upper one. Thus, for a vertical joint, c l would be the joint line, and if this mould were placed to its pitch over the plan, the line c l would lie in the same direction as the centre line of the well- hole, with c perpendicularly over 3, and the two points in CL denoting the inside and outside of the mould, perpendicularly over the inside and outside of the rail on the joint line of the plan. The moulds are exactly the same as if produced from ordinates, the plank of course having the same pitch; and anybody who understands how to get them out by ordinates, will know that they must be correct. It will perhaps be noticed that the piece added to the inside of the lower mould is greater than that added to the inside of the upper one. The cause of this is the difference in the pitch of the two wreaths, the top one being flatter than the bottom one. So in every case the sharper the pitch the- greater becomes the piece to be added inside to make the joint a square butt joint, and vice versa, until it happens that either of the lines A b or b c becomes level, as in Plates II., v., and VII., when there will be nothing to be added, and the joint line will always be at right angles to such level line, and also in the direction of the diameter of the ellipse. • • D 42 HANDRAILTNG. 11. Those who may wish to satisfy themselves further upon the above point, cannot do better than get two pieces of wood one inch square. This will be large enough to include the plan of the rail. On the sides 1 2 and 2 3 (Fig. 1) of the first piece, mark the pitches a b and b c (Fig. 2) . Cat off to this bevel. On the sides 3 4 and 4 5 (Fig. 1) of the second, mark the pitches cd and D E (Fig. 2), and cut off to this bevel. Draw the line corresponding to tangent 2 3 and to b c of the mould on the bevelled end of the first piece ; also the line corresponding to tangent 3 4 and c D of the mould on the bevelled end of the second piece. Then screw the two together, having the joint on the centre line of the well-hole, and keeping the end of the lines on the bevelled ends of the pieces corresponding to c of the moulds to the same height. On the square end of the two pieces thus screwed together, draw the half circular plan of the rail; Take off the stuff to these lines, leaving it concave on the inside and convex on the outside, corresponding to the inside and outside of the rail on plan. The plan and elevation will then appear as in Figs, s and T, Fig.' s being the plan, and Fig. T an elevation of the con- cave side. From this it will be evident, first, QUADRANT OF WINDERS. 43 that the quarter ellipse of the moulds must finish at the points we have indicated ; secondly, that these points will always be perpendicularly over the inside and outside of the rail on the joint line of the plan ; thirdh% that the triangular piece we added to the inside of / the bottom mould belongs more properly to the top, and the piece we added to the inside of the top belongs more properly to the bottom ; that is, if we divide the concave side of the rail plan into two equal parts, and from the point of division erect a perpen- dicular across the joint of the wreaths when together, each of the pieces we have added Fig. t. will be found to belong to and form part of the opposite quarter circle. The concave side of the mould, therefore, when the joint line is drawn, covers more than a quarter of a circle. But we cannot draw more than a quarter of an ellipse on the one mould when the other has a difi'erent pitch. We therefore draw the quarter ellipses first, then the joint line square to the tangent, and continue the inside curve to the joint line as directed. It will be evident from these considerations that d2 44 HANDKAILING. to draw the joint square to the tangent, and to set off half the width of the mould on this joint line on each side of the tangent, will be incorrect. To draw the curve of the ellipse with any accuracy through points so obtained will be found im- possible, especially when the wreath has a very sharp pitch. The centre point will be right, but that towards the convex side will be too far from the centre, and that towards the concave will not be far enough. This will appear more plainly from an examin- ation of Fig: u. Let the two semicircles represent . the plan of the rail. The line dividing it into two A- quadrants and drawn to the centre will be the joint line of the plan, and a e will be the tangent for the centre of the mould. When thic is placed to its pitch over the plan, the tangent of the mould will lie in the same direction as a e, and the centre will lie perpendicularly over e of the plan. But the joint line of the mould, instead of being over the joint line of the plan, will be more in the direction of c e d. (This may easily be proved by drawing the joint through c square to BC on the bevelled end of Fig. t.) Suppose we find the width of the mould here to be 5| QUADRANT OP WINDERS. 45 mclies. If we set off 2| inches each side of the point perpendicularly over e, it will be evident that neither of the points so obtained will be perpendicularly over either outside or inside of the rail on plan. That towards the convex side will fall without the rail, and that towards the concave will fall within it. But instead of this, find the points perpendicularly over f and g. Draw the quarter ellipses to those points, and complete the mould as directed. The application of these moulds to the plank, the jointing up and the bevel for same, will be similar in all respects to those described in the preceding Plates. Make the casings, or square up the wreaths roughly, but do not finish them until the joints have been made and the parts bolted togQther. PLATE V. WREATHS FOR HALF-SPACE OF WINDERS. 12. This plate exhibits the moulds of a hand- rail for a half-space of winders, with a straight flight below, and the floor or landing at top. Fig. 1 is the plan with the riser lines laid down as shown, and tangents drawn to the semicircular centre line of the handrail. Fig. 2 is the development of Fig. 1 in eleva- tion, the vertical lines 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, coinciding with the points 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, of the plan, and the riser lines drawn as they occur on the centre line of the rail, and the tangents to the semicircle. The under side of the level rail at top is drawn at the distance of four inches from the floor, and the centre at the distance of half the thickness from the under side. This is continued in a straight direction, to cut the vertical line 4 in D. From D continue the centre downwards to meet the centre of the lower straight rail, so as to form a fair easing on the same. Mark the joints as shown, square to the falling line. The HALF-SPACE OF WINDERS. 47 rise or height for jointing the wreaths to the lower rail is obtained as on the preceding Plates. From A and c draw the horizontal lines A H and c F. From h and f set off the distance h j and F G, equal respectively to the diagonals, 1 3 and 3 5 (Fig. 1). Draw J c and g e. Then j c will be the diagonal for the lower mould, and g e the diagonal for the upper one. Fig. 3 shows how to construct the lower mould. Make a c equal to J c (Fig. 2). Draw a b and B c as before, and draw parallel to them respec- tively c K and A K. Then k becomes the centre for the elliptic curves. Both pitches of this wreath being alike, the longer diameter will be parallel to A c, through the centre k, and the shorter one through k at right angles to the longer one. From A to the end of the mould is made equal to the distance from a to the joint (Fig. 2). The bevel and width for each end is determined as before, by drawing a a at right angles to b c, and the distance a a is then applied as at 6 7 (Fig. 1) for the bevel, and half the width of the rail drawn parallel to 6 7, in order to obtain 7 8, which is half the. width of the mould. These both apply to each. end of the mould. The distance 7 8 is drawn on each side of, and parallel to, a b (Fig. 3), to cut the springing a k ; and where the 1) 3 48 HANDRATLTNG. same parallel distances to b c cut c k will be the points (together with, those in a k) to which the quarter ellipses should be drawn. Find the direction and length of the longer diameter, and draw the curves of the mould to those points as before. Then draw the joint square to b c, and from the point where this joint line is cut by the convex curve, mark off the whole width towards the concave side, and con- tinue the inside curve to this point. The mould will then be completed. Fig. 4 shows the method of constructing the upper mould. This presents no difficulty, the tangent d e being level. We proceed, however, by the same method as before, and make c e equal to G E (Fig. 2). We then draw c d and d e, and their parallels e l and c l, and l will be the centre of the curve. From l to c Avill be half the shorter diameter to the centre of this end of the mould (equal to radius for centre of rail on plan), and from l to e will be half the longer diameter to the cen{re of the top end. To find the bevel and width for the top end, take L E or CD, and apply it from 9 to 10 (Fig. 1). This gives the bevel. Set off from 9 10 half the width of the rail, and 10 11 will be half the width of the mould. Draw parallel lines at this distance to d e (Fig, 4), to cut the springing line HALF-SPACE OF WINDERS, 49 L E. Make the distance from e to the end of the mould equal to the distance from e to the joint (Fig. 2). The lower end requires no bevel, l c, being the shorter diameter, will be level, and the nar- rowest part of the mould is always on this dia- meter. The width here will therefore equal the width of the rail on plan. Set off half this width on each side of c on c l ; then we have the dis- tance from the centre l to the inside and outside of the mould on each diameter for drawing the curves. When cutting this piece out of the plank the stuff should be left full at the narrow end. Owing to the sharp pitch of this wreath, the mould produced at the top end has a great width, and if the piece were cut out to the full width of the mould, there would be more stuff used than necessary. By the use of the bevel for this end the neces- sary width may be ascertained to a nicety. ThuS; let A B c D (Fig. w) represent the top end of the piece, as it would be if cut out square to the full width of the mould e f g (7i inches). Through the centre o of the width and thickness draw the bevel b d (the same as found at 9, 10, 11, Fig. 1, Plate Y.). On each side of this line set off half the width of the rail, and draw the parallels 50 HANDRAILING. to B D. On the bevel line b d set off half the thickness of the rail on each side of the centre o. the rail. The mould, however, must be retained the full width for bevelling the wreath, which is done in the same way as any other of a similar construction. 13. A word or two as to the lengths of balusters that are necessary here, and on some of the other Plates, may not be considered out of place. Cer- tainly the under sides of the wreaths are not drawn so that the balusters on the winders may be the same length as those on the flyers. To have done so would have spoiled the appearance and crip- pled the falling line altogether, besides making it m.ore dangerous for persons using the stairs. It is usual with some joiners to make an easing on the upper straight rail as well as on the lower one, and to make the under side of the wreaths lie close to the narrow ends of the w^inders, so G Draw the top and bottom, and through the angles k k draw the Fig. w. dotted lines square to the face of the piece. Then these dotted lines give the necessary width of stuff to produce the wreath. Thus, instead of 7J inches, only 5 inches are needed, which is only one inch wider than LENGTH OF BALLSTERS. 51 that the rail may be the same height and the balusters have the same length as on the flyers. But this does not appear to us to be the safest plan, nor do we think that the rail always looks the best when executed in this way. It is not worth while to cripple the falling line of the wreaths and make them look very unsightly, as they sometimes do, for the sake of getting the balusters all the same length. It is better to execute the wreaths and easing so that the two combined shall have a good even-looking" falling line, and to let the lengths of the balusters take care of themselves. These are, however, ques- tions w^hich every one must be left to settle for himself according to his taste and judgment. But we think the rail has a much better appearance when lifted over winders, especially if the ascent is sharp, as in small well-holes. It will be noticed that in no single instance have we drawn an easing on the upper rail in any of the Plates described in these pages. Nor should we ever think of doing so unless com- pelled by circumstances which we could not con- trol, or by superior authority. This we believe to be the correct system, if one may be said to be more correct than another ; and this we think will produce by far the best- looking handrail when finished. 52 HANDRAILING. But whicheyer way this question may be de- cided, it will in no way interfere with the method of getting out the moulds as taught here. The one thing necessary is to see that the centre fall- ing line is leading in the same direction on each side of the joint. PLATE YI. WREATH FOR OBTUSE AIS^GLE WITH WINDERS. 14. This Plate shows the construction of a mould for an obtuse angle with winders, having straight flights above and below. The general method of the preceding Plates is followed here in every particular, except in finding the centre for the elliptic curves of the mould. Fig. 1 is the plan with the tangents 1, 2, 3 enclosing the circular centre of the rail. The radius lines 1 d and 3 d are drawn square to the straight rail from the centre d. The diagonal 1 3 is drawn between the two ends of the circular arc ; d 2 will then be at right angles to the diagonal 1 3. Fig. 2 represents the unfolding of the centre line of Fig. 1, the riser lines being placed as they occur on the centre, and the tangents. The vertical lines 1, 2, 3 of Fig. 2 will then coincide with the points 1, 2, 3 of Fig. 1. Draw the falling lines of the rail as before, and continue the upper centre in a straight line dow^n 54 HA^^DRATLTN'G. to B, and from b downwards, so as to get a good easing on the lower straight rail. From A draw the horizontal line A e, and from E set off E F, equal to the diagonal 1 3 (Fig. 1). Draw F c ; then f c will be the diagonal for the mould. Fig. 3 shows how to draw the mould. Make A c equal to r c (Fig. 2). Then draw a b and b c as before, extending each line as shown, and making the distances from a and c to the ends of the mould equal to the distances from a and c to the joints (Fig. 2). Draw the ends of the mould square to A b and b c. To find the centre of the elliptic curve, bisect A c in G. • From b draw b g. Take b g in the compasses, and with one foot at 2 (Fig. 1) draw the arc cutting the diagonal 13 at h. From 2 draw the line 2 h, extending it to meet the perpendicular on the line d 2 from d at j. Make BCD (Fig. 3) equal to 2 h j (Fig. 1). Then d will be the centre of the curve sought. From D draw d a and d c through a and c. These will be the springing lines, and will denote on each outside edge of the mould the point where the straight and circular parts will meet. The bevels and widths are obtained as on any of the* foregoing Plates. Thus, for the top end, draw A a fit right angles PLATE VI. WINDERS ON AN OBTUSE ANGLE. 55 to B c. Then, with the distance a a for radius, and the point 4 (Fig. 1) (anywhere on centre line of rail) for centre, draw the arc cutting the centre line at 5. Draw the line 4 5, and this will be the required bevel. Parallel to 4 5 set off half the width of the rail, and 5 6 will be half the width of the mould. Eepeat this distance on each side of b c (Fig. 8), and draw parallel lines to cut the springing line d c. For the bottom end the same method is fol- lowed, and the beyel and width, 7, 8, 9 (Fig. 1), obtained as above. This again is repeated on each side of a b (Fig. 3), and parallel lines drawn to cut the springing line a d. Thus we have the two points in each edge of the mould, the centre d, and the length of half the shorter diameter, which will be equal to the radius of the plan for the inside and outside of the rail. From these we find the direction and length of the diameter, and draw the curves in the same way as on any of the foregoing Plates. The application of this mould for the purpose of bevelling the wreath is the same as for a right- angled plan. The method of proceeding with an acute angle (when the diagonals are at right angles to each other) will be the same as for an obtuse angle. The one Plate will therefore serve for the two angles. PLATE YII. MOULDS FOR SCROLL SHAXKS. 15. This plate shows the application of the author's method of handrailing to the production of moulds for scroll shanks. A very brief de- scription only will be necessary, as the mould is .drawn in a manner exactly similar to that used on Plate II. Fig. 1 is the plan, having the centre of the largest quadrant of the scroll enclosed, with the tangents 1, 2, 3. The diagonal is drawn from 1 to 3, but it might be dispensed with in this and all similar cases, there being no difficulty in obtaining the angle b (Fig. 3), because it is a right angle. Fig. 2 is the development or elevation on the centre line a^id tangents of Fig. 1, showing the top of scroll step and the next flyer. The under side of the rail is drawn resting on the angles of the flyers, and the centre line at the distance of half the thickness. Prolong the centre of the rail downwards, to cut the vertical line 2 at b.. PLATE VTT E A Fig. 3. SCROLL SHANKS. 57 From B draw b a horizontal, and extend it to D. From D set off d e, equal to the diagonal 1 3 (Fig. 1). Draw ec, which will be the diagonal for the mould. Fig. 3 shows how to draw the mould. Make the diagonal A c equal to e c (Fig. 2). Then take A B and B c (Fig. 2), and lay them down at Fig. 3, as before. Parallel to a b and b c draw c f and A F. The point f then becomes the centre of the quarter ellipses. The only bevel we require here is one for the lower end. This is obtained by taking a f (Fig. 3) in the compasses, and applying it from 4 to 5 (Fig. 1). This will give the bevel. Parallel to 4 5, set off half the width of the rail, and 5 6 will be half the width of the mould. The top end will be square, and the same width as the rail on the plan. Set off the distances on each side of A and c, and draw the quarter ellipses of the mould as before. The joint at 3 (Fig. 1) will be vertical, and may be made square from the under side of the level portion of the scroll, and square to the face and tangent a b of the wreath. It is better, however, to m.ark the springing on the inside edge of the wreath when it is bevelled, as in any other case. Then, in making the joint, place the level portion of the scroll on a level surface, and holding the 58 HAXDTIATLTNG. parts of the joint together, prove the springing and the inside edge of the wreath with a set square, both of which should be brought to a per- pendicular position. The upper joint presents no difficulty, the shank end of the wreath being straight. In making it, however, the centre of the wreath should be placed to the centre of the rail, except when it requires raising or lowering to bring the height of the newel right. This method of drawing the mould in cases of this kind might be dispensed with by using ordinates and the pitchboard, which would give the same bevel and pitch of plank. If, however, the tangent ab (Fig. 2) were drawn out of a level, the pitchboard would not give the bevel nor the pitch of the plank ; and the joint for the level portion of the scroll, instead of being square to the under side, would have to be bevelled. So that if by drawing a b horizontal the length of the newel becomes too great, we have only to decide what length it shall be, and draw the under' side of the scroll to suit this height. Then at the distance of half the thickness draw the centre, and connect this with the point b, letting the centre of the joint still be on the vertical line 3, but taking care that the line from b to meet the level centre shall be continued in a straio^ht direc- SCROLL SHANKS. 59 tion some little distance beyond tlie point a. This, perhaps, will be seen more clearly by refer- ring to the following Plate, where we have been obliged to enter more minutely into the matter. PLATE VIII. SCROLL SHANKS FOR WINDERS. 16. This Plate gives an example of the construc- tion of a mould for a scroll shank with commode steps, or diminished flyers, at bottom. In this case there are two steps only. The number, however, may be either more or less, according as different situations may require them. The method of proceeding will be the same as that adopted in the foregoing Plates, except in the mode of finding the centre for the ellipse, which will be explained in its proper place. Fig. 1 is the plan with the risers laid down as shown. Draw the tangent 1 2, which is a con- tinuation of the centre line of the rail. Also draw the joint at 3, radiating towards the centre from whicb this part of the scroll is described. At right angles to this joint line, and from the centre 3, draw the tangent 2 3. Next draw the diagonal from 1 to 3 ; then from 2 draw 2 4, pointing to the centre from which the largest quadrant of the scroll is struck. PLATE VIII. SCROTAL SHANKS. 61 Fig. 2 unfolds in elevation the centre line and tangents of Fig. 1, the risers being placed in the ievelopment as they occur in the plan, on the centre line, and tangents. The distances 1 2 and 2 3 (Fig. 2) will then be equal to 1 2 and 2 3 (Fig. 1), with the flyers at top, the curtail step at bottom, and the diminished flyer between them. Draw the under side of the straight rail resting on the flyers, and at half the thickness of the rail draw the centre line. Continue this in a straight direction, to cut the vertical line 2 at b. In order to decide upon the height of the newel, suppose the top of the rail is to be 2 feet 8 inches in vertical height above the tread over the front of the flyer riser line. This rail will measure 4 inches in vertical thickness, and will therefore require lifting 2 feet 4 inches. If, therefore, the newel is to be 2 feet 6 inches, the under side of the level portion of the scroll will have to be drawn at a distance of 2 inches above the top of the curtail step. Draw the under side of the scroll at this distance, and the centre line at half the thickness of the rail. Then from b draw B A, to meet the centre of the level scroll some little distance beyond the vertical line 3 a. Draw the lower joint through a square to a b, and the upper one at any convenient distance from c. From A draw the horizontal line a e, and from e 62 HANDRAILING. set off E D equal to the diagonal 1 3 (Fig. 1). Draw D c, wliich will be the diagonal for the mould. Fig. 3 shows how to draw the mould. Make A c equal to d c (Fig. 2) . Then a b and b c (Fig. 3) are respectively equal to a b and b c (Fig. 2), and a^e drawn as before described, a the diagonal of the mould, is the line that wiil lie over the diagonal 1 3 (Fig. 1) from end to end in an inclined posi- tion. Take therefore a c (Fig. 3) in the compasses, and with one foot at 3 (Fig. 1) draw an arc, cut- ting the perpendicular to 1 3, at 5. Draw 3 5, and from 4 draw 4 6 parallel to 1 5 ; then 5 6 will be the distance from c (Fig. 3), through which to draw b f. Therefore make c f (Fig. 3) equal to 6 6 (Fig. 1), and draw b f. To find the length of B G, take b f in the compasses, and with one foot at 2 (Fig. 1) draw an arc cutting the diagonal 1 3 at 7. Draw 2 7 and extend it to 8, where it cuts the line parallel to 1 3, drawn from the centre of the largest quadrant of the scroll. Then b g (Fig. 3) should be made equal to 2 8 (Fig. 1), and g will be the centre of the elliptic curves. The length b g may be determined on Fig. 1 at either side of the point 4, whichever may be found most convenient, as either will be correct. This method of finding the length of b g ii SCROLL SHANKS. 63 necessary, owing to 2 4 not being square to 1 3 (Fig. 1), and it can be drawn square only when the centre of the largest quadrant of the scroll is in such a position as to admit of it. This of course will depend upon what direction the diagonal is drawn in. If it could be so drawn that a line at right angles to it from 2 would pass through the centre of the largest quadrant of the scroll, then the point r in a c (Fig. 3) would be in the middle of A c, and the length 13 g might be found in the same way as in the case of an obtuse or acute angle. Having found the centre g of the ellipses, draw the lines A g and c g. The bevels and widths are found according to the general method given above. Thus for the bottom end draw c c at right angles to a b (Fig. 3). Then at Fig. 1 extend the tangent 2 3 to 9, and from 1 draw 10 11 parallel to 2 3. Then, with the distance c (? as a radius, and the point 9 for a centre, draw an arc cutting 1 10 at 10. Draw 9 10, and this will give the bevel. Parallel to 9 ' 10 set off half the width of the rail, and 10 11 will be half the width of the mould. Repeat this distance on each side of ab (Fig. 3), and draw parallels to cut a g. For the top end, draw a a at right angles tone (Fig. 3). Then from 3 (Fig. 1) draw 3 12 parallel to 1 2 ; and with A a 64 HANDKAILING. for a radius and the point 12 for a centre, draw the arc cutting 2 1 produced at 13. Draw 12 13, and this will be the bevel required. Parallel to 12 13 set off half the width of the rail, and 13 14 will be half the width of the mould. Repeat this distance on each side of b c (Fig. 3), and draw the parallel lines to cut the springing line c G. Thus we have two points in the inside curve, the centre g, and half the shorter diameter of the ellipse, which last will be equal to the radius for the inside of the largest quadrant of the scroll at Fig. 1. From these we determine the direction and length of the longer diameter, and can draw the curves in the same manner as before. After describing the curves, draw the joint at a square to a b, and the mould will be completed. We have drawn the lines at Fig. 1 for obtain- ing the bevels beyond the scroll for the sake of clearness. This, however, is not necessary. • Having taken the distance at Fig. 3 for the top end, one foot of the compasses may be placed at 3 (Fig. 1), and the arc drawn to cut the line 1 2 in the same way as we have drawn it. And for the bottom end, with the distance taken at Fig. 3 in the compasses, one foot may be placed at 1 (Fig. 1), and the arc drawn to cut the feCROLL SHANKS. 65 tangent 2 3. Either way will be correct, the one method producing the same bevel and width as the other. This wreath is bevelled in exactly the same way as any other with two pitches. The joint at the upper end may be made at any convenient distance from c, as before stated, and square to the face and inside edge. Let the centre of the wreath be placed to the centre of the rail, unless it should require slightly lower- ing or raising, in order to bring the under side of the level piece to the proper height of the newel. For the lower joint, a bevel will have to be set with its stock to the under side of the level portion of the scroll, and the blade made to coincide with the joint line drawn through a. . The bottom end of the wreath may be planed square to the face, and to the tangent a b. It is much better, however, to make this lower joint as advised on Plate YII. Thus, plane the joint on the level portion of the scroll to its proper bevel and direction across the face. Then fix this level piece to a flat surface, and fit the lower end of the wreath until the springing line and inside edge are proved by a set square to be in a perpendicular position. e3 PLATE IX. HANDEAIL FOR STAIRS WITH WINDERS AT BOTTOM. 17. This Plate exhibits a plan of stairs and rail that might possibly occasion some difficulty to any one not yery well versed in the foregoing method of getting out the moulds for wreaths, and coming upon a plan of this kind for the first time. The general method, however, already given for finding the direction and length of the elliptical axes for the mould will apply in exactly the same way here as in former cases. The only part of the plan that should cause any difficulty is the construction of the mould for the upper wreath, Fig. 4. This is no fancy plan, but one that not unfre- quently occurs in actual practice, the author having met with such ; and he has also been asked for information as to how to proceed gene- rally with such a plan, and more particularly how to get out the moulds. Fig. 1 is the plan of a staircase with a curtail PLATE IX. HANDRAIL FOR STAIRS WITH WINDERS AT BOTTOM 67 step at starting and winders in the quarter space, the narrow ends of which may be finished against a newel, and the right-hand end of the flyers housed into a wall-string. The centre line only of the quadrant is laid down, and this is enclosed by tangents, as shown at abode. The joint connecting the bottom end of the lower wreath to the scroll should be on the line where the curves running in opposite directions meet. In Fig. 1 it is shown at a on the second riser line. It may be placed here or moved either way as required, pro- vided the above requirement is not forgotten. The tangent d e might be made shorter if it should be thought desirable, thus bringing the point D nearer to e, and thereby increasing some- what the length of a b and b c. The effect of this would be to make the point D in the development (Fig. 2) somewhat higher than is there shown, and thus lift the upper end of the first wreath, which would perhaps be an improvement. Fig. 2 is the development of the riser lines and tangents of Fig. 1. The first wreath, as will be observed, lies very flat, and the small easing re- quired to bring it from the rake to the level of the scroll eye .may easily be made by having the piece of stuff* for the scroll extra thick. The bottom end of this wreath, as at a, may be lifted or lowered as may be considered most desirable. 68 HANDRAILING. The diagonals f c and c e (Fig. 2) for the moulds are obtained as already fully described. The mould for the first wreath (Fig. 3) is constructed in accordance with instructions pre- viously-given, and need not be further described here. The mould for the second or upper wreath (Fig. 4) is one that may require some explanation, although it is constructed in a similar way to the lower one. Make the diagonal a b equal to c e (Fig. 2), and the tangents a c and b c each equal to c D and d e (Fig. 2). Bisect a b in d, and draw c d, producing it indefinitely. Take c d in the compasses, and with one foot at d (Fig. 1) describe an arc cutting c e in f. Through f draw D F, and produce it to meet the perpendi- cular to D H in G. Then in Fig. 4 make c e equal to D G (Fig. 1), and e will be the centre of the elliptic curves far the mould. To find the directions of the axes apply the square as in former examples, with the end of the line in the centre of it placed to e, as shown. Then take the radius to centre of rail in Fig. 1, and apply it from a and b (Fig. 4) to cut the end of the square in f and g; and when lines drawn through these last points from A and b, and pro- duced to H and J become equal, each to each, the end of the square will give the direction of the HANDRAIL FOR STAIRS WITH WINDERS AT BOTTOM. 69 axes as before, and the mould may be described as already explained. It will thus be seen that the only difference between this and all preceding examples of a similar description is that, w^hile in the latter the two points A and b are situated one on each con- tiguous side of the minor axis, they are in this case both on one and the same side of it. This circumstance, however, as will be evident from the example before us, makes no difference whatever in the method of procedure. The situation of the two points a and b in the circumference of the ellipse, of which the curves of the mould form a part, depend of course upon the position into which the plank is thrown for cutting out the wreath, and also what part of the circumference the mould curves refer to, the for- mer condition always determining the latter. As a rule, the mould is cut, or crossed, by the minor axis of the ellipse, or, in other words, the curves of the mould consist of a portion of two elliptical quadrants which are situated one on each contiguous side of the minor axis. When this is the case — and it is almost always — the place where the mould is crossed, or cut, by the minor axis is perfectly horizontal when placed in its true position, and the same width as the rail is on plan. 70 HAND RAILING, In the case before us (Plate IX.) wheii the mould (Fig. 4) is placed in its true position, that is, the position which the plank occupies for cut- ing out the wreath, no part- of it is in a hori- zontal position, and it is everywhere wider than the rail on plan. The same class of moulds is produced in using other systems of lines on Handrailing. SQUARING THE WREATH. 71 SQUAEIITG THE WEEATH. 18. As this perhaps has not been made suffi- ciently clear in the foregoing pages, we will endeavour to state the method we adopt as fully and explicitly as possible. Take such a pair of wreaths as those shown on Plate II., where the straight rail has no easing. Having bevelled them according to directions, the easing may be roughly made as before de- scribed. That is, some of the superfluous wood may be taken off at top and bottom, or in other words they may be roughly squared. But the stuff should be left very full all round, as it is difficult to tell where to take off and where to leave on to a nicety with a single wreath until it has been attached to the straight rail. The joints being made as directed, take the bottom wreath and bolt it to the rail. See that the straight end of the inside, or concave edge, is in a line with the edge of, and square to, the under side of the rail. Clean off the outside edge of the wreath to width of rail. Then take off the top and bottom to a distance of 4 or 5 inches square with the edge, and in a line with the top and bottom of the rail. Go through the same 72 HANDRAILTNG. operations witli the upper end of the top wreath and rail. Then take them off the rail, and bolt the parts of the centre joint together. See that the springing lines are true, or out of winding one with the other. Clean ofE the joint on the concave side, so that the half circle may be seen without any cripples by looking on the top. Gauge to a width with a gauge like that shown in Fig. z, slightly rounding the stem to fit the concave side of the wreath,, and letting the distance from the stem to the pencil point be equal to the width of rail. Then apply ~ the stem to the concave side in a per- pendicular direction, and run the pencil round the convex top and bottom of the wreaths. Take the stuff off to these lines, to bring them to the proper width all round. Make the easing on t*he fop side by taking off tho super- ^' fluous stuff between the two straight ends, so as to produce an even-looking falling line, using a square if it is thought necessary. Then gauge to a thickness, and take off the stuff on the under side, using a pair of callipers to see that the proper thickness is maintained across the width, as otherwise they are liable to be left thick in the middle; This will be found a safe and reliable method SQUAKING THE WREATH. 73 to adopt, either with a pair of wreaths or with a single one. Also when the lower rail has an easing the same method will apply. And if the wreaths have been jointed-np to their proper height, no unsightly easings and mistakes are likely to occur. Part II. STAIKBUILDING. Part 11. STATRBUILDING, OR THE CONSTRUCTION OF STAIRCASES. PRELIMINARY. 1. In treating of tlie construction of staircases we have not much, to say that is not already well known to some at least of our readers, but our endeavour will be rather to explain the different processes to be gone through in constructing a staircase in as clear and intelligible a manner as possible, without omitting any matters upon which it may be advisable to offer instruction and advice to those who may feel the want of it. The different kinds of staircases are pretty well known and understood, so far as their names are concerned, by all who are engaged in the building trade as carpenters and joiners. They may gene- rally be divided into two classes — the dog-legged or newel stairs, and the continued or geometrical stairs. The former are mostly used for cottages 78 STAIRBUILDING. and small houses, although some very elaborate specimens of this kind of staircase are occasionally- met with in large and noble houses. In the case of cottages, however, the stairbuilder is sometimes at a loss to know what to do for the best, there being no room for anything worthy of being called staircase by which the occupants may get from floor to floor with ease and comfort. This of course can easily be remedied by having a proper plan, and making at least such provision for the stairs that they may be so constrticted as to obviate any liability to accident by the persons using them. Staircases of the latter kind, that is, the geome- trical, are as a rule used only in the better class of houses and mansions where elegance of form is desired, and in such cases the plans of the stair- case are usually determined at the same time as the plans of the building, and suitable provision is made for them accordingly. 2. To make a staircase perfectly easy of ascent and descent the going-* and rise, or tread and riser, should always be properly proportioned to each other. The higher the rise the less should be the going, and the greater the going the less should be the rise. This proportion may be * By the ' ' going ' ' is meant in all cases the distance from the face of any one riser to the face of the next one, and does not include the nosing or projection of the tread beyond the face of the riser. PRELIMINARY. 79 arrived at in a very great number of cases by making "the sum of the going and rise equal to from 16 to 17J inches, according as the going in- creases from 8 to 12 inches ; the lower sum being increased by from about ^ inch to ^ inch for every 1 inch increase in the goings or as near this as the total going and rise of the stairs will allow. Thus, if the going is 8 inches the rise may be the same, though it should not be more. If the going is 9 inches, the rise should be about 7| inches. With a going of 10 inches the rise may be 6| inches. If the going is 11 inches, the rise may be 6 inches. And if the tread has a going of 12 inches, the proper rise will be 5J inches. Either of these proportions may be used with the most satisfactory results, and the stairs will be found to meet every requirement for being ascended and descended with tolerable ease and comfort, besides which they will be found to embrace the vast majority of cases of varying rise and going likely to be met with in practice. The number of risers, however, in a staircase belonging to the better class of work is, as a rule, decided by the architect, and from this of course there must be no departure without his authority. But sometimes there is a little to spare in the total going of a staircase, and when this is the case the going of the separate treads may be increased r 80 STATRBUILDING. or diminished somewhat, so as to make them ap- proximate to the above proportions as nearly as may be considered desirable. 3. The Story Rod. When the number of steps in a staircase is decided upon, the total height, or rise, is taken from floor to floor with a rod, called the story rod,'^ by standing one end of it on the floor below and marking it at its upper end by the height of the floor next above. It is then divided by a pair of compasses into the same number of equal parts as there are to be risers in the stairs, and the exact rise of each step will be equal to any one of those parts. Or the total height and the approxmate rise only of each step being known, the number of risers and the exact rise of each may be obtained arithmetically thus — Suppose the height for the stairs from the top of one floor to the top of the next above to be 11 feet 6 inches. Reducing this to its lowest denomina- tion, we get 138 inches. Then let the required rise be about 6J inches, and divide the 138 by 6J and we obtain 21 as the total number of risers in the flight, and again dividing 138 by 21 we obtain 6|- inches as the exact rise of each step. CHAPTER I. Plans of Staircases. 4. Before laying down the plan of a staircase, the first thing to ascertain is the size of the space the stairs are to occupy. We must also know the number of steps there are to be, and the rise from Fig I. floor to floor. These particulars being determined, the stairs may be delineated both in plan and section. The first example is one of a dog-legged or newel staircase. Let a b c d, Fig. 1, be the plan of the walls within which the stairs are to be F 2 82 STAlTlBUir DING. erected ; the width, b c, being 6 feet 9 inclies, and the total height 9 feet 8 inches. There being 16 risers in the plan before us, this will give a rise for each step of 7^ inches, for which a 9-inch going would be a suitable proportion. Draw first the lines representing the thickness of the wall-strings* allowing of course for the plastering ; then the newel, f, the centre of which should be on the riser line, e, which is drawn at a distance from the back wall, b c, equal to the semi-width of the staircase, and at right angles to the side wall, A b. "With any radius describe the quadrant g h from the centre of the newel r, and divide it into the same number of equal parts as there are to be winders (in this case three) ; and through the points of division and from the centre of the newel draw the lines representing the face of the risers. Draw the riser lines for the flyers at their proper distance apart, in this case 9 inches ; also draw the first newel and middU'String^ and describe the quadrant for the corner of the first step, and the plan will be complete. It may be remarked, however, that the first newel in this plan is im- mediately under the last or top newel. Oonse- * The term ' ' string ' ' is applied to the sloping plank into which the ends of the treads and risers are housed ; the string being cut out to receive the ends. PLANS OF STAIRCASES. 83 quently this latter cannot be shown by dotted lines as it should be if its position were on either side of the bottom one. In making a plan of the above to work from, the winders and newel only, including of course the strings at the wide end of the winders, are laid down full size, the other parts being drawn to any scale from | inch upwards, but a 1| inch scale, if not considered too large, will be found very convenient both in laying down the plan and also in working from, as every \ of an inch in such a scale will represent 1 inch, and every ^-^ of an inch will represent | inch. By making a section (Fig. 2) of these stairs on the line j k. Fig. 1, they may be further deli- neated, and the length of strings, newels, and handrails may be ascertained preparatory to cut- ting off the stuff. In Fig. 2 draw the line A b for a base, and set up the first run of steps to their proper rise, taking the goings from riser to riser as they occur on the line J k. Fig. 1. The ilrst six being flyers will be equal to the going of the pitch-board, the seventh being a winder will be wider, and the eighth wider still. From this point the figure will represent an elevation of the remaining part, inasmuch as it presents to view the outside face of the second 84 STAIRBUILDING. string instead of the section of tlie steps as in the first run. The upper part is, however, set up in a similar way to the lower part, as shown by the dotted lines representing the ends of the steps, &c. F,g 2. If now the top edges of the strings are drawn parallel to and at their proper distance* from the * This distance may be anything to suit the width of string, but a very general one is 2 inches or 2J inches from the angle made by the top of the tread with the face of the riser. PLANS OF STAIRCASES. 85 nosing-line* of the treads, and the width is then set off downwards, their lengths may be obtained very accurately. Then draw the handrails at their proper distance above the treads, and their lengths, and that also of the newels, may be measured off according to whatever scale the sec- tion has been drawn. In fixing the floor joist for this and all other kinds of stairs care must be taken to see that the trimmers are placed at their proper distances from the walls, also the landings at their proper height, &c. To ensure having these matters attended to, it is advisable to lay down a plan of the stairs before the joists are put on at the building, and give instructions accordingly. In Fig. 2 the handrails are shown without any easing at either end, and framed straight into the newel ; the newel running up above the rail and having a turned or some other kind of orna- mental top. Sometimes there is a newel cap and an easing at both ends of the same piece of rail, the upper one, as shown by the curved lines at c e, being called a swan's neck. The method of finding the centre, d, from which the curves are described, * The ''nosing" is the amount of projection of the tread over the front of the riser. 86 STA1RBUILDIN(?. will be sufficiently obvious from an examination of the figure without a detailed description. A better-looking easing, however, than can be had by making it consist of arcs of circles, as in the above, may usually be obtained by sketching it freehand to suit the eye, and the bad appear- ance sometimes shown at the part C is thereby avoided. The easing at the lower end may be obtained by the pitch-hoard as shown in Fig. 3, where A B c is the pitch-board, with the under side of the rail, f d, resting on the hypothenuse, and d e th^ under side of the newel cap and horizontal part of the easing, drawn at about half the rise above and parallel to the going a b. The curved parts may then be described by finding their centre as at g, or the angle may be eased ofi" to suit the eye. The upper edges of the wall-strings at top and bottom of the stairs, and at the landings and winders, are sometimes continued in a straight direction to meet the top horizontal edge of the skirting at an angle ; but this is done only in the Fig 3. PLANS OF STAIRCASES. 87 commoner class of work. In a better class of work the top raking edges of the strings are brought to the horizontal by a gentle curved line to suit the depth of the skirting, so that the moulding or chamfer may be continued in an un- broken line from top to bottom. A good effect may be produced by this means if the curved easings are not too large and are carefully and evenly made.* That over the winders should be made suitable to whatever number there may be, and need not necessarily follow the line of nosings, so that the top edge may be at all points the same distance from them as it is at the flyers. Novicos getting this idea into their heads will sometimes spoil the appearance of this part of their work, and produce a very unpleasing effect. In a staircase with a plan like that shown in Fig. 1, the easing of the string containing the ninth and part of the eighth winders should be lined out first, then the upper end of the first long string can be eased round to meet the height of the former in the angle. Fig. 4 shows the former easing, and Fig. 5 the upper end of the latter easing ; the height, a b, . * Various methods for drawing these curves are given in the author's book on " Circular Work in Carpentry and Joinery." Crosby Lockwood & Son. F 3 88 STAIRBUILDING. above the eighth riser, or first winder, being the same in both figures. The wide ends of the winders are, of course, housed into the wall- strings in the same manner as the flyers, but the narrow ends and their risers instead of being housed similarly into the B newel are let info it from the back, the piece being cut clean out to the depth of about half an inch. PLANS OF STAIRCASES. 89 By this means the risers and winders being put into the housings of the wall-strings first, when they are being fixed, the opposite or narrow ends may be put into their places in the newel from the back without any difficulty. The oider'String as shown in this stairs is what is termed a close-stringy because the ends of the steps are housed into it in the same manner as into the wall-strings. The top edge is usually finished with a capping to receive the balusters, and the lower edge with a return bead to finish fair with the plastering, the laths for which are sometimes nailed to the lower angles of the treads, if the strings are sufficiently strong to dispense with carriages,'^ or pieces of timber placed under their lower edges to stiffen them. 5. When the outer-string is cut to mitre with the ends of the risers, it is termed an ojjcn or cut and mitred string. The lower edge in this case is finished with a return bead or small moulding, and sometimes there is a sinking in addition to relieve the plain appearance it would otherwise present. With an open string, pieces of timber termed " carriages,'^ and running in the same direction as the strings, will be required, on account of the strength of the strings, for effi- ciently supporting the outer ends of the steps, 90 STAIRBUILDING. beiag very much reduced by the cutting. The depth of the carriages will depend upon their length and the weight they may have to support. But whatever their depth the outer string must be wide enough to project sufficiently beyond the lower edge to include the thickness of the plastering. The lower ends of the balusters with a cut B E / / string are dovetailed into the ends of the treads, and then hidden from view by a return-nosing which is moulded to the same section as the pro- jection of the tread beyond the face of the riser, being mitred to it at one end, and returned in itself at the other. Thus, in Fig. 6, a is the face of the string, b b the balusters dovetailed into the tread as at c on PLANS OF STAIRCASES. 91 the upper step, and then hidden from view by the return nosing as at d, on the lower step. For the circular corner of the first tread a piece of dry stuff the same width as the riser and thick enough to run beyond the springing at either side, is used, and cut to the proper shape. The riser is then cut down to a thin veneer for a suflBcient distance to go round the block, to which it is glued, screwed and wedged. In Fig. 7, A is the block, which is first cut to the required shape, usually a quarter of a circle. It is then laid on the back of the riser and rolled round to get the correct length of the veneer, which will require to be about YQ-th. of an inch thick. The veneer being cut, the riser should be laid on the bench face downwards, and the end, d, of the block properly fitted and 92 STAIRBUILDING. screwed. Then bend tlie veneer round the block gradually, by bringing its opposite end, c, down to the riser at b, and insert the wedges for tightening up the veneer. If, then, everything is found to fit properly, the block may be released and plenty of glue laid on the joint preparatory to screwing and wedging up as before ; after which the screws should be inserted at b and the riser completed. Care should be taken to see that no angle is formed at either springing, especially at the wedging, by driving the wedges too tightly. The straight part should be made perfectly tan- gential to the curve. When the block is too large to be obtained conveniently in one piece, two or three may be used and well glued and screwed or nailed to- gether, the grain of the wood in the different pieces being placed at right angles. The plan of stairs as given in Fig. 1 will of course have to be varied to suit different circum- stances, although one like this might do very well for some situations. Sometimes a whole half space, as from b to c, has to be occupied by win- ders, in other cases there are winders at bottom to start with, and in some instances winders at top to finish with. This last, however, should always be avoided in dog-legged stairs, if possible, as the PLANS OF STAIRCASES. 93 narrow ends of the winders against the newel, when they are looked at from the floor-landing, give the stairs a very steep and dangerous ap- pearance. 6. Beside the foregoing there are what is termed open neivel stairs. Some very fine old specimens of the kind are to be met with in mansions and other places in difierent parts of the country, which, for substantial and noble appear- ance, combined with ease and comfort in ascend- ing and descending, will far surpass a good many of the more modern productions. They were evi- dently designed by men having a thorough prac- tical knowledge of the requirements as regards safety and comfort in such cases. They are used now, as they were in more ancient times, only in situations where there is plenty of room, and where expense is not, as in some instances at least, a consideration, as the stairs are designed and executed in a very elaborate and costly man- ner. Fig. 8 is a plan of such a staircase. This sketch, however, will give but a very poor idea of the appearance such a staircase presents when seen in elevation after being erected, especially if the materials and workmanship are of a first- rate kind. The handrails in such a case would usually have a swan's-neck easing at the upper end of the first and second run so as to 94 STAIRBLIILDING. bring it up to the height of the level landing- rails, and so make the same square in the newel do for both. But it is not often that an opportunity offers of adopting such a plan for a staircase as Fig. 8 in private houses, the room required for such a purpose being con- sidered too great. The landing, how- ever, should always be introduced wherever it is possible to do so in place of winders, which in numberless instances are not only objectionable on account of the little going and perpen- dicularity at their narrow ends, but also on account of the danger attending their use. Thus, the stairs shown in plan at Fig. 1 would be very much better with a half- space landing instead of a quarter-space and a quarter of winders as there shown. So also in the geo- metrical example as shown in plan at Fig. 9. If it be possible when planning a stairs to introduce a half- space landing in place of the J L ' Q - c F ll '9 S PLANS OF STAIRCASES. 95 tvinders it should alwaj^s be done, and the stairs will look better and be much safer and easier to use. These matters, as a rule, are decided by- others than the workman who makes the stairs. Still, there are times when the stair-builder is called upon to exercise his judgment in reference to them, and it is for guidance in such cases that the author has ven- tured to offer the foregoing remarks. 7. The next ex- ample is a geometri- cal or continued staircase, but a good many of the remarks already made in reference to the dog-legged staircases will be equally applicable to some par- ticular parts of this also. Let A B c D, Fig. 9, be the plan of the walls where a geometrical staircase is to be erected. The position of doorways either at the bottom or top, or wherever else they may occur if near the stairs, must be carefully noted, and the plan of the staircase laid down accordingly, as they should 96 STATKBUILDING. not be allowed too close to either the first or last step. The position of windows also has some- times to be taken into account in laying down the plan. These, however, are considerations which will only affect particular cases as they occur in practice, and need not concern us here any fur- ther than as stated above. A staircase such as we show in Fig. 9 is often required, and will generally come sufficiently clear of doors and windows to obviate any difficulty or necessitate any alteration when laying down the plan. The same particulars stated to be necessary previous to planning a dog-legged staircase must also be determined in this case. Supposing these to be known, proceed to lay down the plan of the walls, as at A B c d, the width b c being equal to 7 feet, with plenty of going for the first and se- cond run of flyers, and the height 11 feet 41 inches. There being 21 risers in all, this will give a rise for each step of 6 J inches, for which a 10-inch going is a suitable proportion.* Draw first the lines representing the thickness of the wall strings, and parallel to these the lines * In deal stairs this going is very seldom called for, an 1 1 inch plank being the Tsddest stuff available for the treads, and this will only allow of from a 9 inch to a 9J inch going at the very outside, which is amply sufficient for all ordinary purposes. PLANS OF STAIRCASES. 97 for the face of the outer strings, continuing the same in a semi-circle for the plan of the well hole and making the width at e f equal to the width at the flyers, which is here supposed to be 3 feet, thus making the well hole 1 foot wide. Through the centre J draw the line g h parallel to b c, or at right angles to a jb. g and h being the points of division through which the lines of the dimi- nished flyers are drawn, should be situated about midway between the wall and outer string, or in the supposed position a person would occupy in using the stairs. Then, with a radius of 2 feet describe the semi-circle as shown by the dotted curve. Divide the semi-circle g h into the same number of equal parts as there are to be winders in the half space, not counting the steps g and h as such, for although they have the appearance of winders they are not really winders, their proper name being dimhmlied flyers. From the points where the semi-circle e is cut by the line G H set ofi* along the face line of the outer strings a distance equal to about 2 or 2 J inches, as at k and L. Then divide k e l into the same number of equal parts as there are winders, and from these points of division, and through the divisions in the semi-circle g h draw the lines representing the face of the risers. Also from k and l, through g and H, draw k g and l h, producing them to the 98 STAIKBUILDING. wall string. Then from g and h set off tlie widtli and required number of flyers along the dotted lines as shown ; and through the divisions draw the riser lines at right angles to the face of the wall string, finishing off at bottom with a curtail step, and with a quarter circle at top as shown. The size and shape of the curtail must be determined by the method of drawing the scroll as given in Parti. Handrailing, Plate 1 (5). This method of setting out the winders will be found to produce as good a nosing-line for the narrow ends round the well-hole as can be desired. Different methods of finding the nosing-line are sometimes taught, by which the narrow ends of the winders are made unequal in width and the outline of the lower edge of the wreathed string is wrought into the form of a large ogee, the con- cave curve meeting the convex about midway between the springings.*. This, however, will not have so good an appearance as when the lower edge is made as straight as circumstances will permit, and by the method just pointed out this object may be accomplished, in this and simi- lar cases, by having a small easing at each end, to bring it to the rake of the straight string. Let any one note the appearance of a perfectly * This is called hj the French making the steps dance.'* PLANS OF STAIRCASES. 99 straight edged piece of veneer, after being bent round a semi-cylinder, and glued up in the form of a wreathed string, in which the stretch out of the semi-circle is equal to the going of the tread, and he will perhaps have some idea of the author's meaning. Modifications of the above must of course be made as required to suit particular cases as they occur in practice, so that no particular rule can be given which will apply to all. A section of these stairs may be constructed in the saddle way as the section of the dog-legged example, and the length of strings and straight rail obtained for cutting oiT the stuff. The wall strings require to be set out in the same way as those of the previous example ; the width of the housings for the winders being taken from the plan as they occur on the face of the string. Fig. 10 shows the wall string for the winders. B, The easing of the top edge may be made as considered most desirable. Fig. 11 shows the 100 STAIRBUILDING. lower end of the top wall string, tlie height a B (Fig. 11), being equal to A b in Fig. 10. Fig. 12 shows the upper end of the first wall string ; c d being equal to c d in Fig. 10. These strings should be grooved and tongued at the angles, and the bead or moulding on the top edge mitred or scribed as found to be most convenient. We will now take the remaining operations D. relating to the outer string in the order in which they occur as we ascend the stairs. This will give us the curtail step first, which, as previously PLANS OF STAIRCASES. 101 stated, must be described by the method of draw- ing a scroll as given in Handrailing." It will be somewhat smaller than the scroll according as the handrail overhangs the balusters little or much ; the size at its smallest part, as a. Fig. 13, which is called the neck, being about equal to the size of the balusters. Fig. 13 shows the size of the block, which should be of thoroughly dry- stuff and in about three thicknesses, well glued to- gether ; the figure also shows the veneer attached, and the position of the first and second risers. The veneer should be put on according to the di- rections previously given for a round cornered step (5), plenty of glue being used ; the wedges driven in first at a and then at b, so that it may be drawn up sufficiently tight, and made to lie per- fectly close to the block, screws being used at the thick part as shown. 102 STAIRRUTLDING. The curtail may be connected to the string as at c, and Avell secured to it from behind by screws. At D the mitre for the second riser is shown, which should be cut to an angle of 45° ; and as the string is usually one and a half times or twice the thickness of the riser, a glued block should be inserted as shown by the shaded section. Nails may be driven through the string, especially if painted, endways into the riser for bringing the mitre together, but they should not be driven through the face of the riser into the string unless the risers are also painted. The scotia, or hollow under nosing, of the cur- tail, is screwed or nailed on from above to the top edge of the riser, as ^ s in Fig, 14 ; and is made to project suffi- ciently over the back to allow of the tread being screwed to it from un- derneath by screws as shown ; and the several parts are well glued and screwed together after they have been properly fitted. The scotias for the flyers are let into a groove in the treads, and the risers are then glued against them and held in their proper position by glued blocks at the back, as seen at g in Fig. 15. JN'o nails' should be driven through the treads at the PLANS OF STAIRCASES. 103 15. front edge for this purpose. Sometimes the bot- tom edge of the riser is tongued into the back of the tread as at A. Screws should be used for securing the back of the tread to the lower edge of the riser ; and the joint, instead of being perfectly square, should be shot a little under at the back. The commode steps shown by the dotted curves at the commencement of the plan in Fig. 9 may be constructed as shown in Fig. 16, where a is a supposed rib about 1| inch thick, having one edge cut to the curve of the back of the riser. This rib is then let into the middle of the curtail block, and when the curves of each are properly ad- justed, the rib and block are glued and screwed 104 STATRBtllLDING. together as at B. The thick part of the riser is next saw-'kerfed on the back, as at c c, until it can be bent to the form of the rib, and held there by a handscrew, or by an ordinary screw driven through close to the end. Then a plentiful supply of glued blocks are applied on both sides of the rib, and to the back of the riser ; and the angles formed on the face opposite the saiv kerfs are eased off with a finely set smoothing plane. The remaining operations are as described for Figs. 13 and 14, CHAPTER II. The Wreathed String. 8. The next subject for consideration is the " wreathed string . for the narrow ends of the winders at k e l, Fig. 9. But in the first place we must consider the cylinder^ or more properly semi-cylinder^ on which the wreathed string is glued-up to its proper form. The semi-cylinder is prepared as shown on Fig. 17, the width, k l, being made equal to the width or diameter of the well hole, or the distance in the clear between the faces of the strings, kl (Fig, 9). The semi- circle, unless it is larger than usual, is formed with two pieces of the required thickness, and the two straight sides of 1-inch board about 18 inches wide ; the whole to be nailed to two legs cut to the required shape at top. The length should be sufficient to take the whole length of the string that is required to be glued-up. There are several ways in which the wreathed g2 106 STAIRBUILDING. string for the well hole is prepared, but we will ex- plain first the one most generally adopted, and consi- dered by competent authorities by far the best. It is capable of the highest finish, can be applied to all cases, and is as strong as it is possible to make a string for such a purpose in wood. A thin veneer cut out of yellow pine is the material most usually employed when the work has to be painted, and when not to be painted it must of course be of the same kind of stufi* as the string. This is placed on the semi-cylinder, as we shall presently explain, and backed up with pieces of pine, or white deal, 2i inches or 3 inches wide, hollowed out to fit the curve. To obtain the correct size and shape of the veneer most readily, it will be found best to deve- lop the semi-circular part of the well hole and the steps and risers connected therewith on a drawing-board first. The necessary lines can then be transferred from the board to the veneer rapidly and correctly, and its size and shape determined at once. Proceed first to take a thin slip of wood, or other flexible material, and wrap it closely round the semi-circular part of the cylinder, marking on it the distance from springing to springing while so applied, and draw two parallel lines at a per- pendicular distance apart equal to the distance THE WREATHED STRING. 107 from springing to springing of the cylinder just taken by the slip of wood, as a b and c d on Fig. 18. The face of all the risers will be parallel, and the treads at right angles to these two lines. If, thereforCj the positions of the treads and risers are carefully noted as they occur on the face of the string in the plan Fig. 9, their correct positions in the development on Fig. 18 will be easily deter- mined. Transfer these as required to Fig. 18 and also one or two flyers above and below as shown. Draw the lines e f and g h parallel to the nosing- line of the flyers and at a distance from it, equal to the width of the string, producing the lower 03 108 STAIRBUILDING. one to cut the springing a b in A. From a draw A K parallel to the nosing-line of the winders and cutting g h produced in k. Ease off the angles as shown by a small easing at both ends, and through the inner angle of the tread and riser next but one to the springing, as at l and m, draw the lines e l and g m square to e r and g h. This gives us the joint lines between the straight and wreathed strings, and determines the size and shape of the veneer as from e to g. This will complete the development which must now be transferred to the face of the veneer ; but the in- dentations for the steps, and the easing on the lower edge should not be cut until after the wreath has been properly formed by glueing it up with the backing on the cylin'der, and jointing it to the strings. The straight parts of the veneer beyond the springing on either side, as at E and g, are called the tangents, and each of these will require to be backed up with about two pieces in width, each two when jointed together being wide enough to cover the tangent; these are called the tangent- backing-pieces, and the material of which they are made should be thoroughly dry and sound, of the same thickness as the string, the joint and grain running parallel to the springing lines, and one edge of each tangent-backing-piece must be THE WREATHED STRING. 109 placed exactly to the springing line on the veneer. Before attempting to place the veneer on the cylinder, the tangent-backing-pieces just specified should be well glued on to the back of the veneer and left to dry. These backing pieces should be long enough to reach beyond the top and bottom edges of the veneer. When the tangents are sufiiciently dry, about two holes should be bored through, and one of the tangents should then be screwed to one side of the cylinder, the springing lines of the two being placed exactly opposite each other. Then the A^eneer should be gently bent round the cylinder, and the other tangent screwed to the opposite side in a similar way. The veneer is then ready for the backing, which is made in pieces from 2 inches to 3 inches wide, and hollowed out on one side to correspond with the semi-circular back of the cylinder as shown in Fig. 19, with the joint lines pointing in the direc- tion of the centre of the curve. In glueing ^ ' ^ these pieces on to the veneer, they should.be started from one of the tangents on either side, and each piece should be long enough to allow of a screw or nail being driven through at each end 110 STAIRBUILDING. to hold it securely in its place while the next one is being put on. Plenty of glue must be used and each of the joints well rubbed so as to make sure of filling up all the interstices and making the whole into one perfectly solid piece. The wreath may remain on the cylinder long enough for the glue to get fairly set, but not until it is dry and hard. It should then be taken off by withdrawing the screws and nails, and allowed to get thoroughly dry before the workman attempts to connect it to the strings. The joints at e and g (Fig. 18) are easily made by squaring them from the lower edge, but in addition to this a large bevel should be set with its stock to the line e f, or edge of the straight string, and its blade to the springing line a b. Then in trying the joint together it must be- ad- justed so that the springing line on the wreath coincides with the blade of the bevel, while its stock is held to the edge of the string. The upper joint is made similarly, but the stock of the bevel is applied to the top instead of the bottom edge of the string. For the purpose of securing and strengthening the joints when made, the simplest and most effectual method is to have a piece of l|-inch stuff about 4 inches wide and from 2 to 3 feet long as may be required. This is well glued and screwed to the back of the straight end THE WREATHED STRING. Ill -String of the wreath, as at a, Fig. 20, which is a view of the strings and piece edgeways ; a hardwood key piece about 3 inches by J inch thick is then glued and screwed on to the straight string, and the stiffening piece notched out to fit over it, a pair of wedges being inserted as shown for tightening up the joint. When this end has been thus properly fitted it is, with the wreath at- tached, glued and screwed to the string, as shown at Fig. 20. This can be ap- plied to all joints of a similar description, and if Hardwood Key Fig 20. well done will make the joint a very secure one. The indentations for the steps are best left, and cut one at a time as required when the steps are being fitted into their places, especially if this is. done at the building, as the sharp arrises for the mitres may thereby be preserved intact and the work made to look well when done. 9. The form of the wreathed-string for the quadrant at top of the staircase may be found 112 STAIRBUILDING. similarly to the one just described by developing the quarter-circle on a drawing board, and one or two flyers at the lower end so as to obtain the proper rake for the lower edge of the string. This should be brought to the level of the under edge of the fascia lining for the trimmer by a small easing. One flyer should be included in the wreath at its lower end as in the eemi-circular string, and the tangent and joint glued up in exactly the same way. The tangent at the top end may be made any length from 6 inches to 1 foot as desired, and rebated out on the front for the thickness of the fascia lining. The cylinder used for the winders is made to do by fixing a straight piece over one half of it flush with the top of the semi-circle tem- porarily, and at right angles to the side. The wreath, prepared as before directed, is then placed on it, springing to springing, and the backing pieces glued round the circular quadrant as pre- viously. The position of the last riser should be found as directed in Handrailing (7). 10. It is a practice with some stairbuilders to glue a piece of coarse canvas on the back of such strings as the foregoing, although it may not be really necessary in all cases ; but it undoubtedly tends to considerably strengthen them when used, and as it involves very little extra trouble and expense it should be done whenever extra strength THE WREATHED STRING. 113 is required, or when the wreath is a very long one. 11. When the string has a sinking the wreath should be made wide enough to include it, and the cutting line must then be put on at the depth of the sinking, as at a. Fig. 21. A plough-grove may then be made in the under edge of the upper part of the string, and a tongue worked on the- top edge of the piece cut off to form ^the rebate, and with a little careful manipulation this lower part may be set back into the groove the required distance, and the sinking thus formed without any difl&culty. The return bead on the bottom edge should be made of cane, bent gradually fr j ^ 21 round and closely bradded. 12. The method described above for finding the lower edge of the wreathed string may require some trifling modifications for different plans. It need not alwlays at every point follow the line of the winder nosings in strict parallelism, neither should it be equal in width to the width of the straight string when measured perpendicularly to the falling lines. The depth should rather be measured and made equal, each to each, as nearly as practicable in a perpendicular direction at the 114 STATKBUILDTNG. face of the risers. If, however, when so measured the wreathed string is made somewhat deeper, by means similar to those pointed out, than the straight string, it will be found to have a much better appearance than when measured and made equal in width the opposite way. Every workman having the least acquaintance with the subject will know perfectly well that these kinds of strings always present a very dif- ferent appearance when wrought into their proper form than when they are simply laid out on a flat, surface, as in the development shown on Fig. 18. It, therefore, follows that, provided a sufficient depth of string is secured to cover a sufficiently strong carriage, it is to their appearance when finished that the greatest attention must be paid, and not so much as to how they look when laid out as in the development on a flat surface. 13. The carriages " are placed immediately under and parallel to the risers. They are let into the wall and well wedged at the back end, and nailed to the wreathed string at the other end. Cross-bearers as a rule are not necessary, they only add to the weight without being of any service. The carriage pieces already referred to' being under the back edge of the winder, always cross the grain sufficiently without any additional cross-bearers from carriage to riser. THE WREATHED STRING. 115 14. Another metliod of preparing a wreathed string, is to hollow out a solid piece of stuff on one side to the curvature of the well hole, and in good-sized wells to glue several pieces together so as to obtain the desired curve ; the grain of the wood running in a vertical direction. The piece as thus prepared is then jointed to the straight ' strings, the indentations for the steps are set out and cut, and the easing on the lower edge made to follow the angles of the steps as nearly as may be considered desirable. With a very small well hole, and where no winders are required the above method might do very well, but for any other situation it is not to be recommended at all, although it is sometimes made to do, but only in an inferior class of work. 15. Another method is sometimes practised when the curved surface is of great length and large sweep, as in the wall-strings of a staircase having a circular plan. In this method two ribs are prepared so as to fit as much of the circular wall as may be required when set up to the rake of the stairs. They are then set to the proper angle at their ends and the curved edges covered with boarding, thus forming a cylindrical surface of elliptical curvature. H 116 STAIRBUILDING. Fig. 22, shows a semi-circular* plan of the walls for a staircase of this description, and Fig. 23 represents the ribs elevated to their supposed pitch, and showing, their straight edges with the boarding going round the curved edges behind. The ends, C and d, are of course vertical when the cylinder is set up to its cor- rect pitch. Fig. 24 shows one of the ribs flatways, with the boarding on the curved edges. The string is made up of several thick- nesses of veneer sufficiently thin to bend easily ; two or three pieces being glued up at a time, with bars of wood placed across them sufficieiitly close, and screwed at each end into the boarding of the cylinder ; so as to force out the glue and press the joints up closely. The veneers should not be too thick, or there will be a * The same method is adopted "when the stairs occupy only the segment of a circle. THE WREATHED STRING. 117 strong tendency to spring back to straightness when taken off the cylinder. 16. A very strong and substantial form of string for similar uses to the foregoing, and for an outer string when such is required of similarly large sweep, may be made up on the foregoing cylinder. The method is to use circular bars of wood about 2 inches wide and of any convenient length, cut out of the solid to a concave curve on one edge that shall fit the back of the cylinder and to the required parallel thickness, the pieces being straight the opposite way. The pieces are fitted on the cylinder one. at a time, the concave edge being worked to the slight twist that will be required, and the straight sides placed parallel to the straight sides of the cylin- der. They are then glued and screwed together on the cylinder in suflScient numbers to make up the width of string required, and breaking the heading joints wherever they occur. When the glue is thoroughly dry and hard, both sides, if for an outer string, and one side only, if for a wall string, may be straightened up in a vertical direc- tion, preparatory to covering one or both sides as required with a veneer of the requisite thick- ness. CHAPTER III. Bracketted Stairs. 17. In the better kind of staircases the outer string is frequently ornamented with brackets of various fancy patterns, which are mitred to the riser and glued and bradded to the face of the Riser I ' Nosing I String y/' "'"'K^ B'racket F, g 25. string, the tread projecting far Enough over to in- clude the thickness of the bracket. Fig. 25 is a part plan showing how the riser is shouldered to the back of the string and the bracket mitred to it ; the nosing of the tread and the return nosing being also shown. Fig. 26 is a part elevation showing the face of BRACKETTED STAIRS. 119 the string with the bracket planted on and mitred to the riser, and the return nosing on the end of the tread. Sometimes these brackets have panels formed in them by shallow sinkings, or they may be ornamented in a variety of other ways. 18. Enlarging and Diminishing Brackets. The pattern bracket usually given is of a size suitable for the end of a flyer ; but when winders occur in the stairs this pattern must be diminished or enlarged to suit the varying widths of the same. To do this make the width of the given bracket the base of a right-angled triangle, as at a b. Fig. 27 ; then setting off any convenient distance, as A c, for a perpendicular, draw the hypothenuse, B c, of the triangle, as shown. Draw d e the width, of the shorter bracket, which is required, parallel to a b. In the moulded edge of the original bracket take any number of points, and from them draw 120 STAIRBUILDING. ordinates to cut a b ; then from these points in A B, draw lines converging to the point c. Then from the points where D E is cut by these • converging lines erect perpendicular ordinates as shown, and make them re- spectively equal to the corresponding ordinates in the original bracket. Then, by tracing the contour through the points thus obtained the bracket will be produced. • The above m^ethod is for diminishing. When it is required to enlarge a bracket, it is only neces- sary to reverse the process by making the narrower bracket, as d e, the base of the triangle, and pro- ducing from it the perpendicular and hypothenuse far enough to obtain the width of the bracket to be enlarged. The procedure in this case will be suflSciently obvious without a detailed description. PRINTED BY J. S. VIRTL'E AKD CO., LIMITED, CITY ROAD, LONDON. LONDON, 1862. THE PRIZE MEDAL "Was awarded to the Publishers of "WEALE'S SERIES." A NEW LIST OF WEALE'S SERIES RUDIMENTARY SCIENTIFIC, EDUCATIONAL, AND CLASSICAL. 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The volume contains a great deal of that kind of information which is gained only by practical experi- ence, and is seldom written in books." — Engineer. "The volume is an exceedingly useful one, brimful with engineers' notes, memoranda, and rules, and well worthy of being on every mechanical engineer's bookshelf." — Mechanical World. "A formidable mass of facts and figures, readily accessible through an elaborate Index .... Such a volume will be found absolutely necessary as a book of reference in all sorts of 'works ' connected vvdth the metal trades." — Ryland's Iron Trades Circular. " Brimful of useful information, stated in a concise form, Mr, Hutton's books have met a press- ing want among engineers. The book must prove extremely useful to every practical maia possessing a copy."— Practical Engineer, *^The Modernised Templeton.^^ THE PRACTICAL MECHANICS WORKSHOP COM- PANION. Comprising a great variety of the most useful Rules and Formulae in Mechanical Science, with numerous Tables of Practical Data and Calcu- lated Results for Facilitating Mechanical Operations. By William Temple- ton, Author of "The Engineer's Practical Assist-ant," &c. &c. Fifteenth Edition, Revised, Modernised, and considerably Enlarged bv Walter S. Hutton, C.E., Author of "The Works' Manager's Handbook," "The Practical Engineer's Handbook," &c. Fcap. 8vo, nearly 500 pp., with Eight Plates and upwards of 250 Illustrative Diagrams, 6s., strongly boimd for workshop or pocket wear and tear. Templeton's " Mechanic's Workshop Companion" has been for more than a quarter of a century deservedly popular, and, as the well-worn and thumb- marked vade mecum of several generations of intelligent and aspiring workmen^ it has had the reputation of having been the means of raising many of them in their position in life. In consequence of the lapse of time since the Author's death, and the great advances in Mechanical Science, the Publishers have thought it advisable to have it entirely Reconstructed and Modernised ; and in its present greatly Enlarged and Improved form, they are sure that it will commend itself to the English workmen oj the present day all the world over, and become, lilte its predecessors, their indispens- able friend and referee. A smaller type having been adopted, and the page increased in size, while the number of pages has advanced from about 330 to nearly 500, the book practically con- tains double the amount of matter that was comprised in the original work, \* Opinions of the Press. In its modernised form Hutton's ' Templeton ' should have a wide sale, for It contains much valuable information which the mechanic will often find of use, and not a few taV les and notes which he might look for in vain in other works. This modernised edition will be appreciated by aU who have learned to value the original editions of ' Templeton.' "—English Mechanic. " It has met with great success in the engineering workshop, as we can testify ; and there are a great many men who, in a great measure, owe their rise in life to this little hooV.."— Building NeTi)s. " This familiar text-book— well known fco all mechanics and engineers— is of essential service to the every-day requirements of engineers, millwrights, and the various trades connected with engineering and buHding. The new modernised edition is worth its weight in gold."— Building News. (Second Notice.) " The publishers wise;y entrusted the task of revision of this popular, valuable and useful book lo Mr, Hutton, than whom a more comp«tent man they could not have found."— MECHANICS, MECHANICAL ENGINEERING, etc, 3 Stone-worJcing Machinery, STONE-WORKING MACHINERY, and the Rapid and Economic cal Conversion of Stone. With Hints on the Arrangement and Management of Stone Works. By M. Powis Bale, M.I.M.E. Crown 8vo, gs. •'Should be in the hands of every mason or student of stone-work."— Cxzx\&%'' —Glasgo-w Herald. "One of the most useful books which can be presented tc « mechanic or student."— A Mechanic. " Not merely a dictionary, but, to a certatn extent; also a most valuable guide It strikes us as a happy idea to combine with a definition of the phrase useful information on the subject of which it treats." — Machinery Market. '■This carefully-compiled volume forms a kind of pocket cyclopaedia of the exten^e subject to which it is devoted. No word having connection with any branch of constructive engineering seems to be omitted. No more comprehensive work has been, so far, issued." — Kjicnvledge. " We strongly commend this useful and reliable adviser to our friends in the workshop, and to students everywhere."— C(7//t(?r>' Guardian. Steam Boilers. A TREATISE ON STEAM BOILERS: Their Strength, Con- struction, and Economical Working, By Robert Wilson, C.E. Fifth Edition. i2mo, 6s. cloth. "The best treatise that has ever been published on steam boilers." — Engineer. "The author shows himself perfect master of his subject, and we heartily recommend all em- ploying steam power to possess themselves of the yiiot)s.."—Ry land's Iron Trade Circular. Boiler Chimneys. BOILER AND FACTORY CHIMNEYS; Their Draught-Power and Stability. With a Chapter on Lightning Conductors. By Robert Wilson, C.E., Author of "A Treatise on Steam Boilers," &c. Second Edition. Crown 8vo, 3^. 6d. cloth. "Full of useful information, definite in statement, and thoroughly practical in treatment."— The Local Gaze7-mnent Chronicle. " A valuable contribution to the literature of scientific building. . . . The whole subject is a very interesting and important one, and it is gratifying to know that it has fallen into such com patent hands."— TAe Builder. toiler MaMng. THE BOILER-MAKER'S READY RECKONER. With Ex- amples of Practical Geometry and Templating, for the Use of Platers, Smiths and Riveters. By John Courtney, Edited by D. K. Clark, M.I.C.E. Second Edition, Revised, with Additions, i2mo, 5s. half-bound. No workman or apprentice should be without this book."— /rte^r. *• Professor Goodeve's book is ably and clearly written. It is a sound work." — Athenaum. " Mr. Goodeve's text-book is a work of which every young engineer should possess himself." ~~Minutg Jojirtial. "Essentially practical in its aim. The manner of exposition leaves nothing to be desired. ' — Scotsman. Gas Engines, ON GAS-ENGINES, Being a Reprint, with some Additions, of the Supplement to the Text-book on the Steam Engine^ by T. M. Goodeve, M.A. Crown 8vo, 2S. 6d. cloth. ijtt^t published. " Like all Mr. Goodeve's writings, tlie present is no exception In point of general excellence. It is a valuable Jittle volume."— Mec/tanical IVorld. " This little book will be useful to those who desire to understand how the gas-engine works. * -^English Mechanic. Steam. THE SAFE USE OF STEAM, Containing Rules for Un- professional Steam-users. By an Engineer. Sixth Edition. Sewed, 6d. *' If steam-users would but learn this little book by heart boiler explosions would become sensations by their rarity."— Mec/ianic. Coal and Speed Tables, A POCKET BOOK OF COAL AND SPEED TABLES, for Engineers and Steam-users. By Nelson Foley, Author of " Boiler Con- struction." Pocket-size, 3s. 6d. cloth ; 4s. leather. " This is a very useful book, containing very useful tables. The results given are well chosen, and the volume contains evidence tliat the author really understands his subject. We can recom* mend the work with \)\e^s\iTQ."— Mechanical IVorld. " These tables are designed to meet the ••equirements of every-day use ; they are of sufficient scope for most practical purposes, and may be commended to engineers and users of steam."— Iroji. " This pocket-book well merits the attention of the practical engineer. Mr. Foley has com- piled a very useful set of tables, tlie information contained in which is frequently required by engineers, coal consumers and users of steann. '—Iro/i and Coal Trades Review. Fire Engineering, FIRES, FIRE-ENGINES, AND FIRE-BRIGADES. With a History of Fire-Engines, their Construction, Use, and Management; Re- marks on Fire-Proof Buildings, and the Preservation of Life from Fire ; Statistics of the Fire Appliances in English Towns; Foreign Fire Systems ; Hints on Fire Brigades, &c. &c. By Charles F. T. Young, C.E. With numerous Illustrations, 544 pp., demy 8vo, ^^^'i 4s. cloth. To such of our readers as are interested in the subject of fires and fire apparatus, we can most heartily conmiend this book. It is really the only English work we now have upon the subject."— En£ineerin£'. "It displays much evidence of careful research; and Mr. Young has put his facts neatly together. It is evident enough that his acquaintance with the practical details of the construction of steam fire engines, old and new, and the conditions with which it is necessary they should comply, is accurate and fuSl."—En£^ineer. Gas Lighting. COMMON SENSE FOR GAS-USERS: A Catechism of Gas- Lighting for Householders, Gasfitters, Millowners, Architects, Engineers, etc. By Robert Wilson, C.E., Author of " A Treatise on Steam Boilers.'* Second Edition, with Folding Plates and Wood Engravings. Crown 8vo, price IS. in wrapper. " All gas-users will decidedly benefit, both In pocket and comfort, if they will avail themselvca of Mr. Wilson's counsels."— En^^ineerin^: jyynamo Construction, HOW TO MAKE A DYNAMO : A Practical Treatise for Amateurs. Containing numerous Illustrations and Detailed Instructions for Construct- ing a Small Dynamo, to Produce the Electric Light. By Alfred Crofts. Second Edition, Revised and Enlarged. Crown 8vo, 25. cloth, [Just published. "The instructions given in this unpretentious little book are sufli:iently clear and explicit to enable any amateur mechanic possessed ol average skill and the usual tools to be found in an amateur's workshop, to build a practical dynamOjmachine." — Elect/ ician. 6 CROSBY LOCKWOOD (S- SON'S CATALOGUE, THE POPULAR WORKS OF MICHAEL REYNOLDS ("The Engine Driver's Friend'*). Locomotive-Engine Driving. LOCOMOTIVE-ENGINE DRIVING: A Practical Manual for Engineers in charge of Locomotive Engines. By Michael Reynolds, Member of the Society of Engineers, fcrmerly Locomotive Inspector L. B.and S.C. R. Eighth Editisn. Including a Key to the Locomotive Engine. With Illus- trations and Portrait of Author. Crown 8vo. 4s. 6d. cloth. "Mr. Reynolds has supplied a want, and has supplied it well. We can confidently recommend 4fee book, not only to the practical driver, but to everyone who takes an interest in the performance of locomotive eng-ines." — The Engineer. " Mr. Reynolds has opened a new chapter in the literature of the day. This admirable practical treatise, of the practical utility of which we have to speak in terms of warm commendation."— Athenaum. " Evidently the work of one who knows his subject thoroughly."— Railivay Service Gazette. "Were the cautions and rules given in the book to become part of the every-day working of our engine-drivers, we might have fewer distressing accidents to a&'g\oxQ."—ScotS7nan. Stationary Engine Driving. STATIONARY ENGINE DRIVING : A Practical Manual for Engineers in charge of Stationary Engines. By Michael Reynolds. Third Edition, Enlarged. With Plates and Woodcuts. Crown 8vo, 4s. 6d. cloth. "The author is thoroughly acquainted with his subjects, and his advice on the various points Seated is clear and practical. ... He has produced a manuail which is an exceedingly useful one for the class for whom it is specially intended." — Engineering. "Our author leaves no stone unturned. He is determined that his readers shall not only know something about the stationary engine, but all about xt,"— Engineer. "An engineman who has mastered the contents of Mr.Reynolds's bookwll require but little actual experience with boilers and engines before he can be trusted to look after i\iem."—E7iglishMechanic, The Engineer^ Fireman, and Engine-Boy. THE MODEL LOCOMOTIVE ENGINEER, FIREMAN, and ENGINE-BOY. Comprising a Historical Notice of the Pioneer Locomotive Engines and their Inventors. By Michael Reynolds. With numerous Illus- trations and a fine Portrait of George Stephenson. Crown 8vo, 4s. 6d. cloth. "From the technical knowledge of the author i<- will appeal to the railway man of to-day more forcibly than anything written by Dr. Smiles. . . . The volume contains information of a tech- nical kind, and facts that every driver should be familiar -with."— English Mechanic. "We should be glad to see this book in the possession of everyone in the kingdom who has ever laid, or is to lay, hands on a locomotive engine." — Iron, Continuous JRailway Bralces. CONTINUOUS RAILWAY BRAKES : A Practical Treatise on the several Systems in Use in the United Kingdom; their Construction and Performance. With copious Illustrations and numerous Tables. By Michael Reynolds. Large crown Svo, gs. cloth. " A popular explanation of the different brakes. It will be of great assistance in forming public opinion, and will be studied with benefit by those who take an interest in the brake." — English Mechanic. " Written with sufficient technical detaU to enable the principle and relative connection of the ■ ^rarious parts of each particular brake to be readily grasped." — Mechanical World, Engine-Driving Life. ENGINE-DRIVING LIFE : Stirring Adventures and Incidents in the Lives of Locomotive-Engine Drivers. By Michael Reynolds. Second Edition, with Additional Chapters, Crown Svo. 2S. cloth. [j^ms^ published. "From first to last perfectly fascinating. Wilkie CoUins's most thrilling conceptions are thrown Into the shade by true incidents, endless in their variety, related in everj' page." — North British Mail. "Anyone who wishes to get a real insight into railway life cannot do better than read ' Engine- Driving Life ' for himself ; and if he once take it up he will find that the author's enthusiasm and real love of the engine-driving profession will carry him on till he has read every page." — Saturday Review, IBochet Companion for Enginemen. THE ENGINEMAN'S POCKET COMPANION AND PRAC- TICAL EDUCATOR FOR ENGINEMEN, BOILER ATTENDANTS, AND MECHANICS. By Michael Reynolds. With Forty-five Illustra- tions and numerous Diagrams. Second Edition, Revised. Royal iSmo, 3s. 6d,, strongly bound for pocket wear. " This admirable work is well suited to accomplish its object, being the honest workmcinship of a competent engineer." — GlasgoTv Herald. " A most meritorious work, giving in a succinct and practical form all the information an engine- minder desirous of mastering the scientific principles of his da^ly calling would require." — Miller, " A boon to those who are striving to become efficient mechanics." — Daily Chronicle, CIVIL ENGINEERING, SURVEYING, etc. 7 French-English Glossary for Engineers^ etc* A POCKET GLOSSARY of TECHNICAL TERMS: ENGLISH^ FRENCH, FRENCH-ENGLISH ; with Tables switable for the Architectural, Engineering, Manufacturing and Nautical Professions. By John James Fletcher, Engineer and Surveyor ; 200 pp. Waistcoat-pocket size, is. 6 wiH be enabled at once to obtain the practical information which will be of most service to him."— Oblique Arches, A PRACTICAL TREATISE ON THE CONSTRUCTION OF OBLIQUE ARCHES, By John Hart. Third Edition, with Plates. Im- perial Bvo, 8s. cloth. Curves^ Tables for Setting-out. TABLES OF TANGENTIAL ANGLES AND MULTIPLES for Setting-out Curves from 5 to 200 Radius. By Alexander Beazeley, M.Inst.C.E. Third Edition. Printed on 48 Cards, and sold in a cloth box, waistcoat-pocket size, 3s. 6d. " Each table is printed on a small card, which, being placed on the theodolite, leaves the hands free to manipulate the instrument— no small advantage as regards the rapidity of work." — Engineer, "Very handy ; a man may know that all his day's work must fall on two of these cards, which he puts into his own card-case, and leaves the rest behind." — Athtneciniens of various Grains and Methods of Manipulation — 20, 21. Mahogany: Earlier Stages and Finished t. Various Tools required for Wood Painting — s, 3. Walnut: Preliminary Stages of Graining and Finished Specimen — 4. Tools used for Marble Painting and Method of Manipulation— 5, 6. St. Remi Marble : Earher Operations and Finished Specimen— 7. Methods of Sketching different Grains, Knots, &c.— 8, 9. Ash: Pre- liminary Stages and Finished Specimen — 10. Methods of Sketching Marble Grains — 11, la. Breche Marble : Preliminary Stages of Working and Finished Specimen— 13. Maple : Methods of Producing the different Grains — 14, 15. Bird's- eye Maple: Prehminary Stages and Finished Specimen — 16. Methods of Sketching the dif- ferent Species of White Marble — 17, 18. White Specimen — 22, 23, 24. Sienna Marble : Varieties, of Grain, Preliminary Stages and Finished Specimen — 25, 26, 27. Juniper Wood : Methods of producing Grairi, &c. : Preliminary Stages and Finished Specimen — 28, 29, 30. Vert de Mer Marble : V^arieties of Grain and Methods of Working Unfinished and Finished Speci- mens — 31. 32. 33. Oak : Varieties of Grain, Tools Employed, and Methods of Manipulation, Pre- liminary Stages and Finished Specimen — 34, 35, 36. Waulsort Marble: Varieties of Grain, Un- r -,, —■ finished amd Finished Specimens. Marble: Preliminary Stages of Process and Opinions of the Press. " Those who desire to attain skill in the art of painting woods and marbles will find advantage in consulting this book. . . . Some of the Working Men's Clubs should give their young men the opportunity to study it." — BuiLier. " A comprehensive guide to the art. The explanations of the processes, the manipulation and management of the colours, and the beautifully executed plates will not be the least valuable to the student who aims at making his work a faithful transcript of nature." — Building Ne-ws. " Students and novices are fortunate who are able to become the possessors of so noble a work." —Architect. House Decoration. ELEMENTARY DECORATION, A Guide to the Simpler Forms of Everydav Art, as applied to the Interior and Exterior Decoration o\ Dwelling Houses, &c By James W. Facey, Jun. With 68 Cuts. i2mo, 25. cloth limp. ' As a technical guide-book to the decorative painter it will be found reliable." — Building News. PRACTICAL HOUSE DECORATION : A Guide to the Art of Ornamental Painting, the Arrangement of Colours in Apartments, and the principles of Decorative Design. With some Remarks upon the Nature and Properties of Pigments. By James William Facey, Author of " Elementary Decoration," &c. With numerous Illustrations. i2mo, 25. 6d. cloth limp. N.B.—The above Two Works together in One VoL, strongly half-bound^ 5s. DECORATIVE ARTS, etc. Colour. A GRAMMAR OF COLOURING. Applied to Decorative Painting and the Arts. By George Field. New Edition, Revised, Enlar j;ed, and adapted to the use of the Ornamental Painter and Designer. By Ellis A. Davidson. With New Coloured Diagrams and Engravings. larao, 3s. td, cloth boards. "The book is a most useful resuvu of the properties of pigrnents." — Builder. Mouse JPaintingj Gir'aining^ etc, HOUSE PAINTING, GRAINING, MARBLING, AND SIGN iy/?/r/iVG, A Practical Manual of. By Ellis A. Davidson. Fifth Editicn. With Coloured Plates and Wood Engravings. i2mo, 6s. cloth boards. " A mass of information, of use to the amateur and of value to the practical man."~En£'HsH Mechanic. "Simply invaluable to the young^ster enterini? upon this particular calling, and highly service- £.ble to the man who is practising it." — Furniture Gazette. Decorators^ Receipts for. THE DECORATOR'S ASSISTANT: A Modern Guide to De- corative Artists and Amateurs, Painters, Writers, Gilders, &c. Containing, upv/ards of 600 Receipts, Rules and Instructions ; with a variety of Informa- tion for General Work connected with every Class of Interior and Exterior Decorations, &c. Third Edition, Revised. 152 pp., crown 8vo, 15. in wrapper. " Full of receipts of value to decorators, painters, gilders, &c. The book contains the gi?.t oi LTrgcr treatises on colour and technical processes. It would be difficult to meet with a work so full of varied information on the painter's 3.Tt."— h'ui/diujr A'e7vs. "We recommend the work to all who, whether for pleasure or profit, require a guide to dec cra- licn." — Plutnber and Decorator. Moyr Smith on Interior Decoration. ORNAMENTAL INTERIORS, ANCIENT AND MODERN. By J. MovR Smith. Super-royal 8vo, with 32 full-page Plates and numercus- smaller Illustrations, handsomely bound in cloth, gilt top, price 18s. tS* 7n " Ornamental Interiors" the designs of more than thirty artist- decorators and architects of high standing have been illustrated. The book may therefore fairly claim to give a good general view of the works of the modern school of decoration, besides giving characteristic examples of earlier decorative arrange- inents. "Ornamental Interiors" gives a short account of the styles of Interwr Decoration as practised by the A ncients in Egypt, Greece, Assyria, Rome and Byzan- Hum. This part is illustrated by characteristic designs. Opinions of the Press. "The book is well illustrated and handsomely got up, and contains some true criticism and a good many good examples of decorative treatment." — T/ie Builder. " Well fitted for the dilettante, amateur, and professional dcs\irner."— Decoration. " This is the most elaborate, and beautiful work on the artistic decoration of interiors that we have seen. . . . The scrolls, panels and other designs from the author's own pen are very beautiful and chaste ; but he takes care that the designs of other men shall figure even more thaii- liis own." — Li-^erpool Albion. " To all who take an interest in elaborate domestic ornament this handsome volume will be welcome." — Graphic. " Mr. Moyr Smith deserves the thanks of art workers for having placed within their reac h a book that seems eminently adapted to afford, by example and precept, that guidance of which most craftsmen stand in need."—Fur?iitiire Gazette. British and Foreign Marbles. MARBLE DECORATION and the Terminology of British and Foreign Marbles. A Handbook for Students. By George H. Blagrove. Author of " Shoring and its Application," &c. With 28 Illustrations. Crowo ftvo, 35. td. cloth. " This most useful and much vi^anted handbook should be in the hands of every architect and builder." — Building PForld. " It is an excelleut manual for students, and interesting to artistic readers ge.T\&Ta\\y." —Saturday Review, " A carefully and usefully written eatise ; the work is essentially practical."— .S"<:»^ News, CARPENTRY, TIMBER, etc. CARP ENTRY, TIMBE R, etc. Tredgold's Carpentry, Enlarged by Tarn. THE ELEMENTARY PRINCIPLES OF CARPENTRY. A Treatise on the Pressure and Equilibrium of Timber Framing, the Resist- ance of Timber, and the Construction of Floors, Arches, Bridges, Roofs Uniting Iron and Stone with Timber, &c. To which is added an Essay °?,*x^^ Nature and Properties ol Timber, &c., with Descriptions of the kinds of Wood used in Building ; also numerous Tables of the ScantHngs of Tim- ber for different purposes, the Specific Gravities of Materials, &c. By Thomas Tredgold, C.E. With an Appendix of Specimens of Various Roofs of Iron and Stone, Illustrated. Seventh Edition, thoroughly revised and considerably enlarged by E. Wyndham Tarn, M.A., Author of "The Science of Build- ing," &c. With 6i Plates, Portrait of the Author, and several Woodcuts. In ^one large vol., 4to, price £i 5s. cloth. ''Ought to be in every architect's and every builder's library."— Builder. " A work whose monumental excellence must commend it wherever skilful carpentry is con* cerned. The author's principles are rather confirmed than impaired by time. The additional plates are of great intrinsic value."— Bici/dzn^ News. Woodworking Machinery, WOODWORKING MACHINERY : Its Rise, Progress, and Con- struction.^ With Hints on the Management of Saw Mills and the Economical Conversion of Timber. Illustrated with Examples ot Recent Designs by leading English, French, and American Engineers. By M. Powis Bale, A.M.Inst.C.E.jVI.I.M.E. Large crown 8vo, 12s. 6d, cloth. • i!* ^^^^ evidently an expert on the subject and he has collected so much information that his book is all-sufficient for builders and others engaged in the conversion of timhex:'— Architect. "The most comprehensive compendium of wood-working machinery we have seen. The author is a thorough master of his s\xh]e ct."—BnildiJzg'Ne^vs. " The appearance of this book at the present time will, we should think, give a considerable Impetus to the onward march of the machinist engaged in the designing and manufacture of wood-working machines. It should be in the office of every wood-working ia,ctovy."— English MecJtanic. Saw 3Iills, SAW MILLS: Their Arrangement and Management, and the Economical Conversion of Timber. (A Companion Volume to " Woodworking Machinery.") By M. Powis Bale. With numerous Illustrations. Crown 8vo, los. 6d. cloth. " The admi^iistration of a large sawing establishment is discussed, and the subject examined from a financial standpoint. Hence the size, shape, order, and disposition of saw-mills and the like are gone into in detail, and the course of the timber is traced from its reception to its delivery in its converted state. We could not desire a more complete or practical treatise." — Builder. " We highly recommend Mr. Bale's work to the attention and perusal of all those who are en- gaged in the art of wood conversion, or who are about building or remodelling saw-mills on im- proved principles."— ^;«7^fz«^ News. Carp entering. THE CARPENTER'S NEW GUIDE ; or, Book of Lines for Car- penters ; comprising all the Elementary Principles essential for acquiring a knowledge of Carpentry. Founded on the late Peter Nicholson's Standard Work. A New Edition, Revised by Arthur Ashpitel, F.S.A. Together with Practical Rules on Drawing, by George Pyne, With 74 Plates, 4to, IS. cloth. Mandr ailing, . A PRACTICAL TREATISE ON HANDRAILING : Showing New and Simple Methods for Finding the Pitch of the Plank, Drawing the Moulds, Bevelling, Jointing-up, and Squaring the Wreath. By George Collings. Illustrated with Plates and Diagrams. i2mo, is. 6d. cloth limp. *' Will be found of practical utility in the execution of this difficult branch of joinery." — Builaer. " Almost every difficult phase of this somewhat intricate branch of joinery is elucidated by the aid of plates and explanatory letterpress." — Furniture Gazette, Circular Worh. . CIRCULAR WORK IN CARPENTRY AND JOINERY: A Practical Treatise on Circular Work of Single and Double Curvature. Bf George Collings, Author of ** A Practical Treatise on Handrailing." Illus- trated with numerous Diagrams. i2mo, 2S. 6d. cloth limp. " An excellent example of what a book of this kind should be. Cheap in price, clear in defini- tion and practical in the examples selected."— ^j«7fl^rr. 20 CROSBY LOCKWOOD 6- SON'S CATALOGUE. Timber Merchants Companion, THE TIMBER MERCHANTS AND BUILDER'S COM-- P ANION. Containing New and Copious Tables of the Reduced Weight and Measurement of Deals and Battens, of all sizes, from One to a Thoucand Pieces, and the relative Price that each size bears per Lineal Foot to any- given Price per Petersburg Standard Hundred; the Price per Cube Foct of Square Timber to any given Price per Load of 50 Feet; the proportionate Value ot Deals and Battens by the Standard, to Square Timber by the Load of 50 Feet; the readiest mode of ascertaining the Price of Scantling per Lineal Foot of any size, to any given Figure per Cube Foot, &c. &c. By William Dowsing. Fourth Edition. Revised and Corrected. Cr. 8vo, 3s. rl. " Everything is as cniicise and clear ?>s it can pc-^ibiy be made. There can be no doubt tl «t every timber merchant and builder ougrlit to possess n.'—IInll Advei-tiser. *'' We are glad to see a fourtn edition of these admirable tables, which for correctness aud simplicity of arrangement le;ive notliing to be i\<^\xHsrer. "Will save much labour ard calculation." — Grocer, Superficial Measurement, THE TRADESMAN'S GUIDE TO SUPERFICIAL MEA- SUREMENT. Tables calculated from i to 200 inches in length, by i to 108 inches in breadth. For the use of Architects, Surveyors, Engineers, Timber Merchants, Builders, &c By James Hawkings. Third Edition. Fcap., 3s. ^d. cloth. " A useful collection of tables to facilitate rapid calculation of surfaces. The exact area of any surface of which the limits have been ascertained can be instantly determined. The book will be found of the greatest utility to all engaged in building ooerations." — Scotsman. " These tables will be found of great assistance to all who require to nr^e calculations in super- ficial measurement. "—ifw^/zo^A Mtchanic. Forestry. THE ELEMENTS OF FORESTRY. Desi^rned to alfford In- formation concerning the Planting and Care of Forest Trees for Ornament cr Profit, with Suggestions upon the Creation and Care of Woodlands. By F. B. Hough. Large crown 8vo, ids. cloth. Timber Importer's Guide. THE TIMBER IMPORTER '5, TIMBER MERCHANT'S A N D BUILDER'S STANDARD GUIDE. By Richard E. Grandy. Compri'^- ing an Analysis of Deal Standards, Home and Foreign, with Comparative Values and Tabular Arrangements for fixing Nett Landed Cost on Baltic and North American Deals, including all intermediate Expenses, Freight, Insurance, &c. &c. Together with copious Information for the Retailer and Builder. Third Edition, Revised, izmo, 2s. cfoth limp. " Everything it pretends to be : built up gradually, it leads one from a forest to a treenail, and throws in, as a makeweight, a host of .material concerning bricks, columns, cisterns, 8iQ.."—En^l\zh Mechanic. NAVAL ARCHITECTURE, NAVIGATION, etc. MARINE ENGINEERING, NAVIGATION, etc. Chain Cables* CHAIN CABLES AND CHAINS. Comprising Sizes and Curves of Links, Studs, &c., Iron for Cables and Chains, Chain Cable and Chain Making, Forming and Welding Links, Stren^jth of Cables and Chains, Certificates for Cables, Marking Cables, Prices of Chain Cables and Chains, Historical Notes, Acts of Parliament, Statutory Tests, Changes ior T'^?ting, List of Manufacturers of Cables, &c. &c. By Thomas VV. Traicl, F.E:.R.N., M. Inst. C.E., Engineer Surveyor in Chief, Board of Trc.do, Inspecior of Chain Cable and Anchor Proving Establishments, and General Superin- tendent, Lloyd's Committee on Proving Establishments. With numerous Tables, Illustrations and Lithographic Drawings. Folio, £2 2S. cloth. "It contains a vast amount of valuable infonnation. Nothing seems t« be wanting to make it a complete and standard work of reference on the subject," — NaulicoU Magazine. Marine Engineering. MARINE ENGINES AND STEAM VESSELS (A Treatise on). By Robert Murray, C.E. Eighth Edition, thoroughly Revised, with considerable Additions by the Author and by George Carlisle, C.E., Senior Surveyor to the Board of Trade at Liverpool. i2mo, 5s, cloth boards. " Well adapted to give th' young' steamship engineer or marme engine and boiler maker a gt-Ticral introduction into his practical wotk."—Mec/uinu:2l irorid. " We feel sure that this thoroughly revised edition will continue to be as pjopular in the future as it has been in the paat, as for its size, it contains more useful information than any similar tr oat ise. " — /;trf2n the straight road to lha extra chief's certificate." — G/as^o7u Herald. *' An indtipensable manual for the student of marine engineering."— iLjz'ffr/c?^?/ Mercury. JPocket-Book for Naval Architects and Shipbuilders. THE NAVAL ARCHITECT'S AND SHIPBUILDER'S POCKET-BOOK 0/ FormulcE,RuIes,and Tab!es,and MARINE ESGJNEER'S AND SURVEYOR'S Handy Book of Reference. By Clement Mackrow, Member of the Institution of Naval Architects, Naval Draughtsman. Third Edition, Revised. With numerous Diagrams, &c. Fcap., 12s. 6d. leather, "Shi^uld be used by all who are engaged in the construction or design of vessels, . . . Will be fouiid to contain the most useful tables and formula; required by shipbuilders, carefully ccllccted from the best authorities, and put together in a popular and simple {orm."—Hn^inecr. "Tlie professional shipbuilder has now, in a cc>nvenient and accessible fonn, reliable data for solving many of the numerous problems that present themselves in the course of his work." — Iron. "There is scarcely a subject on which a naval architect or shipbuilder can require to refresh hi;> memory which wU laot be found within the covers of Mr. Mackrow's hook,"— English Mechanic, .FocJcet'Booh for 3Iarine Engineers* A POCKET-BOOK OF USEFUL TABLES AND FOi?- MULM FOR MARINE ENGINEERS. By Frank Proctor, A.I.N.A. Third Edition. Royal sarao, leather, gilt edges, with strap, 4s. "We recommend it to our readers as going far to supply a long-felt ^va.nt."—JVava/ Science. "A most useful companion to all marine engineers."— O'niied Sennce Gazette. Introduction to 3Iarine Engineering* ELEMENTARY ENGINEERING: A Manual for Young Marine Engineers and Apprentices. In the Form of Questions and Answers on Metals, Alloys, Strength of Materials, Construction and Management of Marine Engines, &c. &c. With an Appendix of Useful Tables. By J. S. Brewer, Government Marine Surveyor, Hongkong. Small crown 8vo, 2S. 6d. cloth. C7«sf published " Contains much valuable information for the class for whom it is intended, especi^tlly in the chapters on the management of boilers and eng nes."— A'a«^'^r>/ Guardian. Coal and Iron. THE COAL AND IRON INDUSTRIES OF THE UNITED KINGDOM. Comprising a Description of the Coal Fields, with Returns ot their Produce and its Distribution, and Analyses of Special Varieties. Also an Account of the occurrence of Iron Ores in Veins or Seams; Analyses ot each Variety ; and a History of the Rise and Progress of Pig Iron Manufacture since the year 1740. By Richard Meade, Assistant Keeper ot Mining Records. With Maps of the Coal Fields and Ironstone Deposits of the United Kingdom, 8vo, £1 8s. cloth. " The book is one which must find a place on the shelves of all Interested In coal and iron production, and in the iron, steel, and other metallurgical industries." — Engifieer. " Of this book we may unreservedly say that it is the best of its class which we have ever met. . . . A book of reference which no one engaged in tlie iron or coal trades should omit from his library." — Iron and Coal Trades Review. "An exhaustive treatise and a valuable work of reference." — Mining JournoL JProspecting for Gold and other Metals. THE PROSPECTOR'S HANDBOOK : A Guide for the Pro- spector and Traveller in Search of Metal- Bearing or other Valuable Minerals. By J. W. Anderson, M.A. (Camb.), F.R.G.S., Author of "Fiji and New Caledonia." Fourth Edition, thoroughly Revised and Enlarged. Small crown Svo. 3s. 6d. cloth. [Jttst published. "Will suppl}' a much felt want, especially among Colonisjts, in whose way are so often thrown many mineralogical specimens the value of which it is ditncult for anyone, not a specialist, to determine. The author has placed his instructions before his readers in the plainest possible terms, and his book is the best of its kind." — Engineer. "How to find commercial minerals, and how to identify them when they are found, are the eadiner points to which attention is directed. The author has managed to pack as much practical detail into his pages as would supply material for a book three times its size." — Mining journal. " Those toilers who explore the trodden or untrodden tracks on the face of the globe will find much that is useful to them in this \>oo)^."—Aihenauni. Mining Xotes and Formiilce. NOTES AND FORMULAE FOR MINING STUDENTS. By John Herman Merivale, M.A., Certificated Colliery Manager, Professor of Mining in the Durham College of Science, Newcastle-upon-Tyne. Second Edition, carefully Revised. Small crown Svo, cloth, price 25. 6d. " Invaluable to anyone who is working up for an examination on mining subjects."— Coal and Iron Trades Reznew. " The author has done his work in an exceedingly creditable manner, and has produced a book that will be of service to students, and those v.ho are practically engaged in mining operations.' — Engineer, " A vast amount of technical matter of the utmost value to mining engrineers. and of con^ide- able interest to students. " — Schoolmaste*- MINING AND MINING INDUSTRIES, Gold, Metallurgy of. THE METALLURGY OF GOLD: A Practical Treatise on the Metallurgical Treatment of Gold-bearing Ores. Including the Processes of Concentration and Cnlorination, and the Assaying, Melting and Refining of Gold. By M. Eissler, Mining Engineer and Metallurgical Chemist, lormerly Assistant Assayer of the U . S. Mint, San Francisco. Second Edition, Revised and much Enlarged. With 132 Illustrations. Crown 8vo, 9s. cloth. [Just published. " This book thoroughly deserves its title of a ' Practical Treatise.' The whole process of gold milling, from the breaking of the quartz to the assay of the bullion, is described in clear and orderly narrative and with much, but not too much, fulness of dex^l\\."—S(^/urday Remew. " rhe work is a storehouse of information and valuable data, and we strongly recommend it to all professional men engaged in the gold-mining industry." — Miriiiig yournal. " Anyone who wishes to have an intelligent acquamtance with the characteristics of gold and j:o!d ores, the methods of exti acting the metal, concentrating and chlorinating it, and further on o'" refining and assaying it, will hnd all he wants in Mr. Eissler 's hook."— Finaficiai News. Silver^ Metallurgy of. THE METALLURGY OF SILVER : A Practical Treatise on the Amalgamation, Roasting and Lixiviation of Silver Ores. Including the Assaying, Melting and Refining of Silver Bullion. By M. Eissler, Author of "The Metallurgy of Gold " With 124 Illustrations. Crown 8vo, los. dd, cloth. \ J list published. *• A practical treatise, and a technical work which we are convinced will supply a long-felt want amongst practical men, and at the same time be ot value to students and others indirectly connected witii tne industries." — Mttiing^ 'Joiirnal. " From first to last the book is thoroughly sound and reliable." — Colliery Guardian, "For chemists, p^ractical mmers, assayers and investors alike, we do Hot know of any work on the subject so handy and yet so comprehensive."— G/aj;^C7i/ Herald. Mineral Surveying and Valuing. THE MINERAL SURVEYOR AND VALUER'S COMPLETE.. GUIDE, comprising a Treatise on Improved Mining Surveying and the Valua- tion of Mining Properties, with New Traverse Tables. By Wm. Lintern,, Mining and Civil Engineer. Third Edition, with an Appendix on *' Magnetic and Angular Surveying," With Four Plates. i2mo, 4s. cloth. " An enormous fund of information of great value." — Mining- Journal. " Mr. Lintern's book forms a valuable and thoroughly trustworthy guide."— Iron and Coal Trades Review. " This new edition must be of the highest value to colliery surveyors, proprietors and mana- gers." — Colliery Guardian. Metalliferous Minerals and Mining. TREATISE ON METALLIFEROUS MINERALS AND MINING. By D. C. Davies, F.G.S., Mining Engineer, &c., Author ol "A. Treatise on Slate and Slate Quarrying." Illustrated with numerous Wood* Engravings. Fourth Edition, carefully Revised. Crown 8vo, 12s. 6d, cloth. "Neither the practical miner nor the general reader interested in mines can have a better book: or his companion and his guide."— Alining Joitrnal. , .. ^ „. "The volume is one wnich no student ot mineralogy should be without. — Colliery Guardzan^ " A book that will not only be useful to the geologist, the practical miner, ana the metallurgist,. but also very interesting to the general public."— ,^ , , *' As a history of the present state of mining throughout the world this book has a real value,. and it supplies an actual want, forno such information has hitherto been brought together withia such limited space."— A themeum. Earthy Minerals and Mining. TREATISE ON EARTHY AND OTHER MINERALS AND MINING. By D. C. Davies, F.G.S. Uniform with, and forming a Com- panion Volume to, the same Author's " Metalliferous Minerals and Mining." With 76 Wood Engravings. Second Edition. Crown 8vo, 12s. 6d. cloth. " It is essentially a practical work, intended primarily for the use of practical men. . . . We do not remember to have met with any English work on mining matters that contains the same amount of information packed in equally convenient form."— Academy. " The book is clearly the result of many years' careful work and thought, and we should be inclined to rank it as among the very best of the handy technical and trades manuals which have recently appeared."— i>Vz:/z,$-/i Quarterly Re-view. . , ^ , "The volume contains a great mass of practical information carefully methodised and pre- sented in a very intelligible s\\ape:' —Scotsman. ^ "The subject matter of the volume will be found of high value by all— and they are a numer- ous cleiss— who trade in earthy minerals."— ^M«r«c?«w. 24 CROSBY LOCKWOOD 6- SON'S CATALOGUE, Underground I*umping Machinery, MINE DRAINAGE. Being a Complete and Practical Treatise on Direct-Acting Underground Steam Pumping Machinery, with a Descrip- tion of a large number of the best known Engines, their General Utility and tae Special Sphere of their Action, the Mode of their Application, and tlaeir merits compared with other forms of Pumping Machinery. By Stephen MiCHELL. 8vo, 15s. cloth. " Will be highly esteemed by colliery owners and lessees, mining engineers, and students f'ensrally who require to be acquainted with the best means of securing the drainage of mines. It s a most valuable work, and stands almost alone in the literature of steam pumping machinery." — CoUi'^.ry Guardian. "Much valuable information is gi\*ea, so that the book Is thoroughly worthy of an extensive circulation amongst practical men and purchasers of machinery. ' — Mining "Journal, Mming Tools. A MANUAL OF MINING TOOLS. For the Use of Mine Managers, Agents, Students, &c. By William Morgans, Lecturer on Pra> tical Mining at the Bristol School of Mines. i2mo, 2s. 6d. cloth limp. ATLAS OF ENGRAVINGS to Illustrate the above, contaia- ing 235 Illustrations of Mining Tools, drawn to scale. 4to, 4s. 6d. cloth. " ^Students in the science of mining, and overmen, captains, manageis, and viewers may giin practical knowledge and useful hints by the study of Mr. Morgans' manual." — Colliery Guardiat. •'A valuable work, which will tend materially to improve our mining literature." — Mining Coal Mining, COAL AND COAL MINING: A Rudimentary Treatise on. By Sir Warington W. Smytk, M.A., F.R.S., &c.. Chief Inspector of the Mines of the Crown. New Edition, Revised and Corrected. With numerous Illus- trations. i2mo, 4s. cloth boards. '• As an outline is given of every known coal-field in this and other countries, as well as of tie prh' -!pal methods of working, the book will doubtless interest a very large number of readers."— Mining' journal. Granite Quarrifing. GRANITES AND OUR GRANITE INDUSTRIES. By George F. Harris, F.G.S., Membre de la Societe Beige de Geologie, Lec- turer on Economic Geology at the Birkbeck Institution, &c. With Illustra- . tions. Crown 8vo, 2S. 6^. cloth. " A clearly and well-written manual for persons engaged or interested in the granite industry." —Srotswan. • An interesting work, which will be deservedly esteemed. We advise the author to write again."— CW/fVrv Guardian. ■'• An exceedingly interesting and valuabl*? monograph, on a subject which has hitherto received unaccountably little attention in the shape of systematic literary treatment."— 5c oitish LccuUr NATURAL AND APPLIED SCIENCE. Text Book of Electricity. THE STUDENTS TEXT-BOOK OF ELECTRICITY. By Henry M. Noad, Ph.D., F.R.S., F.C.S. New Edition, carefully Revised. With an Introduction and Additional Chapters, by W. H. Preece, M.I.C.E., . Vice-President of the Society of Telegraph Engineers, &c. With 470 Illustra- tions. Crown 8vo, 125. 6d. cloth. ■' The original plan of this book has been carefully adhered to so as to make it a reflex of the exisJ:;rig state of electrical science, adapted for students. . . . Discover^' seems to have pro- gressed with marvellous strides ; nevertheless it has nov\' apparently ceased, and practical applica- tions have commenced their career ; and it is to give a faithful account of these that this fresh edition of Dr. Noad's valuable text-book is launched tott\\."—Extraa/rom Introduction by IV. H. Prse-e, ^-sq. *' We can recommiend Dr. Noad's book for clear style, great range of subject, a good mdex and a plethora of v.oodcuts. Such collections as the present are xndX'spensd.hXe,,"— Athenaeum. "An admirable text book for every student — beginner or advanced — of electricity."— E*\(:':'teerin<:^. Electricity, A MANUAL OF ELECTRICITY : Including Galvanism, Mag- vetism, Dia-Magnetism, Electro-Dynamics, Magno-Electvicity, and the Electric Telegraph. By Henry M. Noad, Ph.D., F.R.S., F.C.S. Fourth Edition vvith 500 Woodcuts. 8vo, £1 45. cloth. " ''It is vvDrthy of a place ia the library of every public institution."— ^//«««^ Jou/maL NATURAL AND APPLIED SCIENCE. 25 Electric lAght, ELECTRIC LIGHT : Its Production and Use. Embodying Plain Directions for the Treatment of Voltaic Batteries, Electric L^imps, and Dynamo-Electric Machines. By J. W. Urquhart, C.E., Author of " Electro- plating : A Practical Handbook." Edited by F. C. Webb, M.I.C.E., M.S.T.E, Second Edition, Revised, with large Additions and 12S Illusts. 7s. 6d. cloth. The book is by far the best that we have yet met with on the subject."— ^//ir Service Ga-.ette. Field Fortitication. A TREATISE ON FIELD FORTIFICATION, THE ATTACK OF FORTRESSES. MILITARY MINING, AND RECONNOITRING. By Colonel I. S. Macaulay, late Professor of Fortification in the R.M.A., Wool- wich. Sixth Edition, crown 8vo, cloth, with separate Atlas of 12 Plates, 12s. 26 CROSBY LOCK WOOD SON*S CATALOGUE, Temperaments. OUR TEMPERAMENTS, THEIR STUDY AND THEIR TEACHING. A Popular Outline. By Alexander Stewart, F.R.C.S. Edin, In one large 8vo volume, with 30 Illustrations, including A Selection from Lodge's ** Historical Portraits," showing the Chief Forms of Faces. Price 15s. cloth, gilt top. The book is exceedingly interesting, even for those who are not systematic students of an- thropolog^y, ... To those who thinlc the proper study of mankind is man, it will be full of attrac- tion."— ZJazTy Telegraph. "The author's object is to enable a student to read a man's temperament in his aspect. The work is well adapted to its end. It is worthy of the attention of students of human nature." — Scotsman. " The volume is heavy to hold, but light to read. Though the author has treated his subject exhaustively, he writes in a popular and pleasant manner that renders it attractive to the general reader." — Punch. Antiseptic Nursing. ANTISEPTICS : A Handbook for Nurses, Being an Epitome oi Antiseptic Treatment. With Notes on Antiseptic Substances, Disinfection, Monthly Nursing, &c. By Mrs. Annie Hewer, late Hospital Sister, Diplomee Obs. Soc. Lond. Crown 8vo, is. 6d. cloth. [Just published. This excellent little work ... is very readable and contains much information. We can strongly recommend it to those who are undergoing training at the varioHS hospitals, and also to those who are engaged in the practice of nursing, cis they cannot fail to obtain practical hints from its perusal."— /;a««^. " The student or the busy practitioner would do well to look through its pages, offering as they do a suggestive and faithful picture of antiseptic methods." — Hospital Gazette. "A clear, concise, and excellent little handbook."— r/t^ Hospital. JPneiimatics and Acoustics. PNEUMATICS : including Acoustics and the Phenomena of Wind Currents, for the Use of Beginners. By Charles Tomlinson, F.R.S., F.C.S., &c. Fourth Edition, Enlarged. With numerous Illustrations. i2mo, IS. 6d. cloth. • Beginners in the study of this important application of science could not have a better manual. " 'Scotsman. " A valuable and suitable text-book for students of Acoustics and the Phenomena of Wind Currents." — Schoolmaster. Conchology. A MANUAL OF THE MOLLUSC A : Being a Treatise on Recent and Fossil Shells. By S. P. Woodward, A.L.S., F.G.S., late Assistant Palaeontologist in the British Museum. Fifth Edition. With an Appendix on Recent and Fossil Conchological Discoveries, by Ralph Tate, A.L.S., F.G.S. Illustrated by A. N. Waterhouse and Joseph Wilson Lowry. With 23 Plates and upwards of 300 Woodcuts. Crown 8vo, ys. 6d. cloth boards. " A most valuable storehouse of conchological and geological information."— Science Gossip. Geology. RUDIMENTARY TREATISE ON GEOLOGY, PHYSICAL AND HISTORICAL. Consisting of "Physical Geology," which sets forth the leading Principles of the Science ; and ** Historical Geology," which treats of the Mineral and Organic Conditions of the Earth at each successive epoch, especial reference being made to the British Series of Rocks, By Ralph Tate, A.L.S., F.G.S., &c., &c. With 250 Illustrations. i2mo, 5s. cloth boards. " The fulness of the matter has elevated the book into a manual. Its information is exhaustive and well arranged."— .ScA^^o/ Board Chronicle. Geology and Genesis. THE TWIN RECORDS OF CREATION : or, Geology and Genesis : their Perfect Harmony and Wonderful Concord. By George W. Victor le VAur. Numerous Illustrations. Fcap. 8vo, 5s. cloth. " A valuable contribution to the evidences of Revelation, and disposes very conclusively of the arguments of those who would set GocTs Works against God's Word. No real difficulty is shirked, and no sophistry is left unexp<-.sed." — I he Rock, " The remarkable peculiarity of this author is that he combines an unbounded admiration of science with an unbounded ac uiiration of the Written record. The two impulses are balanced to a nicety ; and the consequenc*- is that difficulties, which to minds less evenly poised would be seri- oixs, find immediate solutions ot the happiest Uind^."— 'London Review, NATURAL AND APPLIED SCIENCE. DR. LARDNER'S HANDBOOKS OF NATURAL PHILOSOPHY, THE HANDBOOK OF MECHANICS. Enlarged and almost re- written by Benjamin Loewy, F.R.A.S. With 378 Illustrations. Post 8vo, 6s. cloth. The perspicuity of the original has been retained, and chapters which had become obsolete have been replaced by others of more modern character. The explanations throughout are studiously popular, and care has been taken to show the application of the various branches o^ physics t* the industrial arts, and to the practical business of hie."— Mining- Journal. "Mr. Loewy has carefully revised the book, and brought it up to modem requirements."— Nature. ^ ** Natural philosophy has had few exponents more able or better skilled in the art of popu- larising- the subject than Dr. Lardner ; and Mr. Loewy is doing^ good service in fitting tliis treatise, and the others of the series, for use at the present X\m^," —Scotsmaji. THE HANDBOOK OF HYDROSTATICS AND PNEUMATICS, New Edition, Revised and Enlarged, by Benjamin Loewy, F.R.A.S. With 236 Illustrations. Post Svo, 5s. cloth. "For those 'who desire to attain an accurate knowledge of physical science without the pro- found methods of mathematical investigation,' this work is not merely intended, but well adapted."' — Che7nicaL News. ♦* The volume before us has been carefully edited, augmented to nearly twice the bulk of the former edition, and all tlie most recent matter has been added. . . . It is a valuable text-book." — Nature. " Candidates for pass examinations will find it, we think, specially suited to their requirements, English Mechanic. THE HANDBOOK OF HEAT, Edited and almost entirely re- written by Benjamin Loewy, F.R.A.S., &c. 117 Illustrations. Post Svo, 6s, cloth. " The style is alwa5rs clear and precise, and conveys instruction without leaving any cloudiness or lurking doubts behind." — Engituering. "A most exhaustive book on the subject on which it treats, and is so arranged that it can be understood by all who desire to attain an accurate knowledge of physical science Mr. Loewy has included all the latest discoveries in the varied laws and effects of heat." — Standard. "A ccmplete and handy text-book for the use of students and general xesidevs."— English Mec/uznic. THE HANDBOOK OF OPTICS. BvDionysius Lardner,D.C.L., formerly Professor of Natural Philosophy and Astronomy in University College, London. New Edition. Edited by T. Olver Harding, B. A. Lond., of University College, London. With 298 Illustrations. Small Svo, 448 pages, 5s. cloth. "Written by one of the ablest English scientific writers, beautifully and elaborately illustrated."* Mechanic's Magazine. THE HANDBOOK OF ELECTRICITY, MAGNETISM, AND ACOUSTICS. By Dr. Lardner. Ninth Thousand. Edit, by George Carey Foster, B.A., F.C.S. With 400 Illustrations. Small Svo, 5s. cloth. " The book could not have been entrusted to anyone better calculated to preserve the terse and lucid style of Lardner, w hile correcting his errors and bringing up his work to the present state of scieatific knowledge." — Popular Science Review. The above Five Volumes, though each is Complete in itself, form A Com- plete Course of Natural Philosophy. JDr. Lardner^s JECandbook of Astronomy. THE HANDBOOK OF ASTRONOMY, Forming a Companion to the " Handbook of Natural Philosophy.'' By Dionysius Lardner, D.C.L., formerly Professor of Natural Philosophy and Astronomy in University College, London. Fourth Edition. Revised and Edited by Edwin Dunkin, F.R.A.S., Royal Observatory, Greenwich. With 38 Plates and upwards of 100 Woodcuts. In One Vol., small Svo, 550 pages, gs. 6d. cloth. " Probably no other book contains the same amount of information in so compendious and well, arranged a form— certainly none at tlie price at which this is offered to the puhhc"— A the fueum. "We can do no other than pronounce tliis work a most valuable manual of astronomy, and we strongly recommend it to all who wish to acquire a general— but at the same time correct— acquaint- ance with this sublime science."— Quarterly Jouriial of Science. "One of the most deservedly popular books on the subject . . . We would recommend not only the student of the elementary principles of the science, but he who auns at mastering the higher and mathematical branches of astronomy, not to be without this work beside him. —Fracii cal Mag'azin^, zS CROSBY LOCK WOOD SON'S CATALOGUE. DR. LARDSER'S MUSEUM OF SCIENCE AND ART. THE MUSEUM OF SCIENCE AND ART. Edited by DiONYSius Lardner, D.C.Lm formerly Professor ot Natural Philosophy and Astronomy in University College, London. With upwards of 1,200 Engrav- ings on Wood. In 6 Double Volumes, £1 is., ia a new and elegant cloth bind- ing ; or handsomely bound in half-morocco, 31s. 6d, Contents : The Planets: Are they Inhabited Worlds?— 1 motive — Thermometer — New Planets: Le- Weather Prognostics — Popular Fallacies in verrier and Adams's Planet — Magniti:de and Questions of Pliv-sical Science— Latitudes and | Minuteness— Common Things: The Almanack Longitudes — Lunaj Influences — Meteeric 1 —Optical Images— How to observe the Heavens Stones and Shooting Stars— Railway Acc;dcnts — Common Things : The Looking-glass — —Light— Common Things: Air— Locomotion I .Stellar Universe— The Tides— Colour— Com- in the United States — Cometary Influences — j mon Things: Man— Magnifying Glasses— In- Common Things : Water— The Potter's Art— j stinct and Intelligence— The Solar ?»IicrosGope Comnaon Things ; Fnre — Locomotion and | — The Camera Lucida— The Magic Lantern — Transport, their Influence and Progress— The | The Camera Obscura— The Microscope— The Moon — Common Things: The Earth — The I White Ants : Their Manners and Habits— The Electric Telegfraph — Terrestriai Heat — The | Surface of the Earth, or First Notions of Sun — Earthquakes and Volcanoes — Barometer, j Geography — Science and Poetry — The Bee — Safety Lamp, and Whitworth's Micrometric \ Steam Navigation — Electro-Motive Power — Apparatus— Steam— The Steam Engine — The | Thunder, Lightning, and the Aurora Borealis Eye — The Atmosphere — Time — Common 1 — The Printing Press — The Crust of the Earth Things : Pumps— Common Things : Spectacles, j — Comets— The Stereoscope — The Pre-Adatn- the Kaleidoscope — Clocks and Watcl^es — ! ite Earth— Eclipses — Sound. Microscopic Drawing emd Engraving- Loco- I *^* Opinions of the Press. "This series, besides affording popular but sound instruction on scfentific subjects, with which the humblest man in the countrj- ought to be acquainted, also undertakes that teaching of 'Com- moa Things ' which every well-wisher of his kind is anxious to promote. Many thousand copies of this serviceable publication have been printed, in the belief and hope tliat the desire for instruction and improvement wide'y pre\-ails ; and we have no fear that such enlightened faith will meet vrith disappointment." — Tinus. " A cheap and interesting publication, alike informing and attractive. The papers combine subjects of importance and great scientific knowledge, considerable inductive powers, and a popular style of treatment." — Spectator. "The * Museum of Science and Art' Is the most \-aluable contribution that has ever been made to the Scientific Instruction of every class of society." — Sir DAVID BREWSTER, in the North British Review. '' WTiether we consider the liberality and beauty of the illustrations, the charm of t'ie writing, or the durable interest of the matter, we must express our belief that there is b-ardly to be found among the new books one that would be welcomed by people of so many ages and classes as a valuable present." — Examiner. %* Separate books formed from the above, suitable for Workmen's Libraries, Science Classes, etc. Common Things Explained, Containing Air, Earth, Fire, Water, Time, Man, ike Eye, Locomotion, Colour, Clocks and Watches, &c. 233 Illus- trations, cloth gilt, 5s. The Microscope, Containing Optical Images, Magnifying Glasses, Origin and Description of the Microscope, Microscopic Objects, the Solar Micro- scope, Microscopic Drawing and Engraving, &c. 147 Illustrations, ciotb gilt, 2S. Popular Geology, Containing Earthquakes and Volcanoes, the Crust of the Earth, &c. 201 Illustrations, cloth gilt, 2s. 6ci. Popular Physics, . Containing Magnitude and Minuteness, the Atmo- sphere, Meteoric Stones, Popular Fallacies, Weather Prognostics, the Thermometer, the Barometer, Sound, &c. 85 Illustrations, cloth gilt, 2S. Od. Steam and its Uses, Including the Steam Engine, the Locomotive, and Steam Navigation. 89 Illustrations, cloth gilt, zs. Poptilar Astronomy, Containing How to observe the Heavens — The Earth, Sun, Moon, Planets, Light, Comets, Eclipses, Astronomical Influ- ences, &c. 182 Illustrations, 45. 6d. The Bee and White Ants : Their Manners and Habits. With Illustra- tions of Animal Instinct and Intelligence. 135 Illustrations, cloth gilt, 25. The Electric Telegraph Popularized, To render intelligible to all who can Read, irrespective of any previous Scientific Acquirements, the various forms of Telegraphy in Actiial Operation, 100 Illustrations, cloth gilt, IS. 6d, COUNTING-HOUSE WORK, TABLES, CALCULATORS, etc. 29 COUNTING-HOUSE WOR K, TABLES, etc. Accounts for Manufcictiirers. FACTORY ACCOUNTS: Their Principles and Practice. A Handbook for Accountants and Manufacturers, with Appendices on the No- menclature of Machine Details ; the Income Tax Acts ; the Rating of Fac- tories ; Fire and Boiler Insurance ; the Factory and Workshop Acts, &c., including also a Glossary of Terms and a large number of Specimen Rulin^rs, By Emile Garcke and J. M. Fells. Third Edition. Demy Svo, 250 pages, price 65. strongly bound. [Just published. ** A very interesting- description of the requirements of F.-ctcry Accounts. . . . the princij^^e of assimilating: the Factory Accounts to the general cominerci?J books is one which we thorough y agree -with."— ^ ccohk^uu/s' yournal. "Characterised by extreme thoroughness. Tliere are few owners of Factories who would not derive great benefit from the peruscJ of this most admirable work."— Z^ca/ Govermncnt Chronicle. Foreign Commercial Coi^^esjyondence. THE FOREIGN COMMERCIAL CORRESPONDENT: Being Aids to Commercial Correspondence in Five Languages — English, French, German, Italian and Spanish. By Conrad E. Baker. Second Edition, Revised. Crown 8vo, 3s. 6d. cloth. [jfust published. ' ' Whoever wishes to correspond in all the languag-es mentioned by Mr. Baker cannot do bettt^r than study this work, the materials of which are excellent and conveniently arrang^ed. They con- sist not of entire specimen letters, but what are far more useiul— short passages, sentences, or phrases expressing- the same g-eneral idea in various {oTm<^."—Aihenanm. "A careful examination has convinced us that it is unv.saaUy complete, well arranged and reliable. The book is a th -roughly good onG."—Schoohnasur. Intuitive Calculations. THE COMPENDIOUS CALCULATOR; or. Easy and Con- cise Methods of Performing the various Arithmetical Operations required rn Commercial and Business Transactions, together with Useful Tables. By Daniel O'Gorman. Corrected and Extended by J. R. Young, formerly Professor of Mathematics at Belfast College, Twenty-seventh Edition, care- fully Revised by C. Norris. Fcap. 8vo, 3s. 6d. strongly half-bound in leather. " It would be difficult to exaggerate the usefulness of a book like this to everyone engaged ii> commerce or manutacturing industry. It is crammed full of rules and formulae for shortening and employing ralculations."— A'tunviec/g^e. " Supplies special and rapid methods for all kinds of calculations. Of great utility to persons cngagc^i in any kind of commercial transact'\ons."Scots man. Modern Metrical Units and Systems. MODERN METROLOGY : A Manual of the Metrical Units and Systems of the Present Century. With an Appendix containing a proposed English System. By Lewis D'A. Jackson, A.M. Inst. C.E., Author of ** Aid to Survey Practice." &c. Large crown 8vo, 12s. td. cloth. "The author has brought together much valuable and interesting information. . . . "We cannot but recommend the work to the consideration of all interested in the practical reform of our weights and measures." — Nature. " For exhaustive tables of equivalent weights and measures of all sorts, and for clear demonstra- tions of the effects of the various systems that have been proposed or adopted, Mr. Jackson's treatise is without a rival." — Academy, The 3Ietric System and the British Standards, A SERIES OF METRIC TABLES, in which the British Stand- ard Measures and Weights are cmnpared with those of the Metric System at present in Use on the Continent. By C. H. Dowling, C.E. 8vo, ios. 6d. strongly bpund. "Their acoiracy has been certified by Professor Airy, the Astronomer- RoyaL" — Builder^^ •*Mr. Dowling's Tables are well put together as a ready-reckoner for the conversion of or>e system into the oih&x."—Athenaum. Iron and Metal Trades^ Calculator. THE IRON AND METAL TRADES' COMPANION, For expeditiously ascertaining the Value of any Goods bought or sold by Weight, from IS. per cwt. to 112s. per cwt., and from one farthing per pound to one shilling per pound. Each Table extends from one pound to 100 tons. To which are appended Rules on Decimals, Square and Cube Root, Mensuration of Superficies and Solids, &c. ; Tables of Weights of Materials, and other Useful Memoranda. By Thos. Dovvnik. 396 pp., 9s. Strongly bound in leather. ** A most useful set of tables, and will supply a want, for nothing like them before existed."— Building- News. "Although specially adapted to the Iron and metal trade?;, the tables will be fourid useful in tfivery other business in which merchandise is bought and soid by weieht,"— ifaiVwaj^ News. 30 CROSBY LOCKWOOD &> SON'S CATALOGUE, Calculator for Numbers and Weights Combined. THE NUMBER AND WEIGHT CALCULATOR, Contain- ing upwards of 250,000 Separate Calculations, showing at a glance the value at 421 different rates, ranging from ^^th of a Penny to 20s. each, or per cwt., and £20 per ton, of any number of articles consecutively, from i to 470. — Any number of cwts., qrs., and lbs., from i cwt. to 470 cwts.— Any number ot tons, cwts., qrs., and ibs., from i to 23^ tons. By William Chadwick, Public Accountant. Second Edition, Revised and Improved, and specially adapted for the Apportionment of Mileage Charges for Railway Traffic. 8vo, price iSs., strongly bound for OfQce wear and tear. iJust published. This comprehensive and entirely unique and original Calculator is adapted for the use of Accountants and Auditors, Railway Companies, Canal Companies^ Shippers, Shipping Agents, General Carriers, etc. Ironfounders, Brassfounders, Metal Merchants, Iron Manufacturers, Ironmongers, Engineers, Machinists, Boiler Makers, Millwrights, Roofing, Bridge and Girder Makers, Colliery Proprietors, etc. Timber Merchants, Builders, Contractors, Architects, Surveyors, Auctioneers, Valuers, Brokers, Mill Owners and Manufacturers, Mill Furnishers, Merchants and General Wholesale Tradesmen. \* Opinions of the Press. The book contains the answers to questions, and not simply a set of Ingenious puzzle methods of arriving at results. It is as easy of reference for any answer or any number of answers as a dictionary, and the references are even more quickly made. For making- up accounts or esti- mates, the book must prove invaluable to all who have any considerable quantity of calculations involving price and measure in any combination to do." — Engineer. " The most complete and practical ready reckoner which it has been our fortune yet to see. It is difficult to imagine a trade or occupation in which it could not be of the greatest use. either in saving human labour or in checking work. The Publishers have placed within the reach ot every commercial man an invaluable and unfailing assistant " — T/te Miller. " The most perfect work of the kind yet prepared."— G/aj-^ozy Herald. Comprehensive Weight Calculator. THE WEIGHT CALCULATOR. Being a Series of Tables upon a New and Comprehensive Plan, exhibiting at One Reference the exact Value of any Weight from i lb. to 15 tons, at 300 Progressive Rates, from id. to i68s. per cwt., and containing 186,000 Direct Answers, which, with their Combinations, consisting of a single addition (mostly to be performed at sight), will afford an aggregate of 10,266,000 Answers; the whole being calcu- lated and designed to ensure correctness and promote despatch. By Henry Harben, Accountant. Fourth Edition, carefully Corrected. Rojal 8vo, strongly half-bound, £1 5s. •* A practical and useful work of reference for men of business generally ; it is the best of the kind we have ^qqxv."— Ironmonger. "Of priceless value to business men. It is a necessary book in all mercantile offices." — SheJ- field Independent. Comprehensive JDiscoiint Guide. THE DISCOUNT GUIDE. Comprising several Series ot Tables for the use of Merchants, Manufacturers, Ironmongers, and others, by which may be ascertained the exact Profit arising from any mode of using Discounts, either in the Purchase or Sale of Goods, and the method of either Altering a Rate of Discount or Advancing a Price, so as to produce, by one operation, a sum that will realise any required profit after allowing one or more Discounts : to which are added Tables of Profit or Advance from i| to go per cent., Tables of Discount from to 98I per cent., and Tables of Com- mission, &c., from I to 10 per cent. By Henry Harben, Accountant, Author of " The Weight Calculator." New Edition, carefully Revised and Corrected. Demy 8vo, 544 pp. half-bound, £1 5s. A book such as this can only be appreciated by business men, to whom the saving of time means saving of money. We have the high authority of Professor J. R. Young that the tables throughout the work are constructed upon strictly accurate principles. The work is a model of typographical clearness, and must prove of great value to merchants, manufacturers, and general traders." — British Trade journal. Iron Shipbuilders' and Merchants' Weight Tables. IRON -PL ATE WEIGHT TABLES: For Iron Shipbuilders, Engineers and Iron Merchants. Containing the Calculated Weights of up- wards of 150,000 different sizes of Iron Plates, from i foot by 6 in. by | in. to 10 feet by 5 feet by i in. Worked out on the basis of 40 lbs. to the square foot of Iron of i inch in thickness. Carefully compiled and thoroughly Re- vised by H. Burlinson and W. H. Simpson. Oblong 4to, 25s. balf-bound. "This work will be found of great utility. The authors have had much practical experience of what is wanting in making estimates; and the use of the book will save much time in making elaborate calculations. — English Mechanic, INDUSTRIAL AND USEFUL ARTS. INDUSTRI AL AND USEF UL ARTS. Soap-making, THE ART OF SOAP-MAKING : A Practical Handbook of the Manufacture of Hard and Soft Soaps, Toilet Soaps, etc. Including many New Processes, and a Chapter on the Recovery of Glycerine from Waste Leys. By Alexander Watt, Author of " Electro-Metallurgy Practically Treated," &c. With numerous Illustrations. Third Edition, Revised. Crown 8vo, 7S. 6d, cloth. "The work will prove very useful, not merely to the technological student, but to the practical soap-boiler who wishes to understand the theory of his art." — Chemical Neivs. "Really an excellent example of a technical manual, entering, as it does, thoroughly and exhaustively both into the theory and practice of soap manufacture. The book is well and honestly done, and deserves the considerable circulation with which it will doubtless meet." — K7icnvledge. "Mr. Watt's book is a thoroughly practical treatise on an art which has almost no Hterature in our language. We congratulate the author on the success of his endeavour to fill a void in English technical literature."— A'ai'wrf. I^aper 31 akin g, THE ART OF PAPER MANUFACTURE : A Practical Hand- book of the Mannfactiire of Paper from Rags, Esparto, Wood and other Fibres. By Alexander Watt, Author of "The Art of Soap-Making," ''The Art of Leather Manufacture," &c. With numerous Illustrations. Cr. 8vo. [In the press. Leather Maniifactiire. THE ART OF LEATHER MANUFACTURE. Being a Practical Handbook, in which the Operations ot Tanning, Currying, and Leather Dressing are fully Described, and the Principles of Tanning Ex- plained, and many Recent Processes introduced; as also Methods for the Estimation of Tannin, and a Description of the Arts of Glue Boiling, Gut Dressing, &c. By Alexander Watt, Author of '* Soap-Making," *' Electro- Metallurgy," &c. With numerous Illustrations. Second Edition. Crown 8vo, gs. cloth. "A sound, comprehensive treatise on tanning and its accessories. . . An eminently valuable production, which redounds to the credit of both author and publishers." — Chemical RevieTv. "This volume is technical without being tedious, comprehensive and complete without being prosy, and it bears on every page the impress of a master hand. We have never come across a better trade treatise, nor one that so thoroughly supplied an absolute via.nt."—Shoe and Leather 'trades' Chronicle. Boot and Shoe Making* THE ART OF BOOT AND SHOE-MAKING. A Practical Handbook, including Measurement, Last-Fitting, Cutting-Out, Closing and Making, with a Description of the most approved Machinery employed. By John B. Lend, late Editor of St. Crispin, and The Boot and Shoe-Maker. With numerous Illustrations. Third Edition. i2mo, 2s. cloth limp. " This excellent treatise is by far the best work ever written on the subject. A new work, embracing all modem improvements, was much wanted. This want is now satisfied. The chapter on clicking, which shows how waste may be prevented, will save fifty times the price of the book." — Scottish Leather Trader. " This volume is replete with matter well worthy the perusal of boot and shoe manufacturers and experienced craftsmen, and instructive and valuable in the highest degree to cill young beginners and craftsmen in the trade of which it treats." — Leather Trades' Circular. Dentistry, MECHANICAL DENTISTRY : A Practical Treatise on the Construction of the various kinds of Artificial Dentures. Comprising also Use- ful Formulas, Tables and Receipts for Gold Plate, Clasps, Solders, &c. &c. By Charles Hunter. Third Edition, Revised. With upwards of loo Wood Engravings. Crown 8vo, 3s. 6d. cloth. " The work is very practical."- iT/^>«//i/y Review of Dental Surgery. "We can strongly recommend Mr. Hunter's treatise to all students preparing for the professiwi of dentistry, as well as to every mechanical dentist." — Dublin jfournal of Medical Science. " A work in a concise form that few could read without gaining information {xom."— British yoiintal of Dental Scitnce. Wood Engraving. A PRACTICAL MANUAL OF WOOD ENGRAVING. With a Brief Account of the History of the Art. By William Norman Brown. With numerous Illustrations. Crown 8vo, 2S. cloth. " The author deals with the subject in a thoroughly practical and easy series of representative lessons." — Pat>er and Prin'insr Tr.ides your^tal. " The book is clear and complete, and will be useful to anyone wanting to understand the first elements ofthe beautiful art of wood engraving."— Grfl/>>^jV. 32 CROSBY LOCKWOOD SON'S CATALOGUE. HANDYBOOKS FOR HANDICRAFTS. By PAUL N. HASLUCr tS* These H andybooks are wntten to supply Handicraftsmen with infovma- tion mt workshop practice, and are intended to convey, tn plain language, technical knowledge of the several crafts. Workshop tenns are used, a-nd workshop pra-ctice described, the text being freely illustrated with drawings of modem toolSy appliances and processes. N.B. The foil-owing Volumes are already published, and others are in preparation Metal Turning, THE MET A L TURNER'S HA ND YBOOK, A Practical Manual for Workers at the Foot-Lathe: Embracing Information on the Tools, Appliances and Processes employed in Metal Turning. By Paul N. Has- LUCK, Author of " Lathe-Work." With upwards of One Hundred Illastra- tions. Second Edition, Revised. Crown 8vo, 2S. cloth. '* Altogether admirably adapte-i to iniiiatc students into the art of turningf." — Leicester FoKt. "Clearly and concisely written, excellent in every way, we heartily coiraucndit to all imcic^trd In metal Wix'o^m.g." —Mecrianical tt'oyld. Wood Turning. THE WOOD TURNER'S HANDYBOOK. A Practical M anual for Workers at the Lathe : Embracing Information on the Tools, Appliances and Processes Employed in Wood Turning. By Paul N. Hasluck. With upwards of One Hundred Illustrations. Crown 8vo, 2s. cloth. ••We recommend the book to young turners and amateurs. A multitude of workmen h;ive hitherto sought in vaun for a manual of this special m6.\isUy."—MecJutnicaU l^orld. Watcli Itepairing. THE WATCH JOBBER'S HANDYBOOK. A Practical Manual on Cleaning, Repairing and Adjusting, Embracing Information on the Tccl'=, Materials, Appliances and Processes Employed in Watchwork. By Paul N. Hasluck. With upwards of One Hundred Illustrations. Cr. 8vo, 2S. cloth. *• All young p>ersons connected with the trade should acquire and study this excellent, and g through the work, amateurs may pick up an c>:cellcjit notion of the con- tructioii of full-sized sttam G.Ti^x^."—TdegraJ>Jiic journal. Clock BepaiHng. THE CLOCK JOBBER'S HANDYBOOK : A Pyactical Manual on Cleaning, Repairing and Adfusiivg. Embracing Information on the Tools, Materials, Appliances and Proce«^ses Employed in Clockwork. By Paul N. Hasluck. With upwards of ioo Illustrations. Cr. 8vo, 2S. cloth- [Just ready. INDUSTRIAL AND USEFUL ARTS. ^Electrolysis of Gold, Silver, Copper, etc. ELECTRO-DEPOSITION : A Practical Treatise on the Electrolysis of Gold, Silver, Copper, Nickel, and other Metals and A Hoys, With descrip- tions of Voltaic Batteries, Magneto and Dynamo-Electric Machines, Ther- mopiles, and of the Materials and Processes used in every Department of the Art, and several Chapters on Electro-Metallurgy. " By Alexander Watt, Author of *' Electro-Metallurgy," &c. With numerous Illustrations. Third Edition, Revised and Enlarged. Crown 8vo, gs. cloth. • Eminently a book for the practical worker in electro-deposition. It contains minute md practical deStriptions of methods, processes and materials as actually pursued and used in the v/orkshop. Mr. Watt's bock recommends itself to all interested in its s\ib']QQts." —Eji^iiteer, IHlectrO' Metallurgy. ELECTRO-META LL URG Y ; Practically Treated. By Alexander Watt, Author of " Electro Deposition," &c. Ninth Edition, including ths most recent Processes. i2mo, 4s. cloth boards. "From this book both amateur and artisan may learn everything necessary for the 5uccessful prosecution of electroplating."— Electroplating. ELECTROPLATING : A Practical Handbook on the Deposi. tion of Copper, Silver, Nickel, Gold, Aluminium, Brass, Platinum, &c. &c. ; With Descriptions of the Chemicals, Materials, Batteries and Dynamo Machines used in the Art. By J. W. Urquhart, C.E., Author of " Electris Light,'' &c. Second Edition, Revised, with Additions. Numerous lUustra* tions. Crown 8vo, 5s. cloth. " An excellent practical ma.nua.\."—£n£'ineertn£^, " This book will show any person how to become an expert in electro-deposition." — Builder, " An excellent work, giving the newest information."— //crtJ/iT^rVra^ Journal. Electrotyping. ELECTROTYPING : The Reproduction and Multiplication of Print- ing Surfaces and Works of Art by the Electro-deposition of Metals, By J. W. Urquhart, C.E. Crown 8vo, 5s. cloth. *' The book is thoroughly practical. The reader is, therefore, conducted through the leading laws of electricitj', then through the metals used by electrotypers, the apparatus, and the depositing processes, up to the final preparation of the work." — Art journal. Goldsmiths' TVork. THE GOLDSMITH'S HANDBOOK. By George E. Gee, Jeweller, &c. Third Edition, considerably Enlarged. i2mo, 3s. 6d. cloth. "A good, sound, technical educator, and will be generally accepted eis an authority.."— //brtf* logical Journal. "A standard book which few will care to be •without."— Jeweller and Metalworker, Silversmiths' Work. THE SILVERSMITH'S HANDBOOK, By George E. Gee, Jeweller, &c. Second Edition, Revised, with Illustrations. i2mo, 3s. 6d, cloth, "The chief merit of the work is its practical character. . . . The workers in the trade wiU tpeedily discover its merits when they sit down to study it." — English Mechafiic. The above two works together, strongly half -bound, price ys, JSread and Biscuit Baking. THE BREAD AND BISCUIT BAKER'S AND SUGAR- BOILER'S ASSISTANT. Including a large variety of Modern Recipes. With Remarks on the Art of Bread-making. By Robert Wells, Practical Baker. Crown 8vo, 2s. cloth. [Just published. "A large number of wrinkles for the ordinary cook, as well as the baker." — Saturday Review. " A book of instruction for learners and for daily reference in the bakehouse."— Times. ^OTtfectioThery. THE PASTRYCOOK AND CONFECTIONER'S GUIDE. For Hotels, Restaurants and the Trade in general, adapted also for Family Use. By Robert Wells, Author of " The Bread and Biscuit Baker's and Sugar Boiler's Assistant." Crown 8vo. 2S. cloth. [Just published, " We cannot speak too highly of this really excellent work. In these days of keen competftion our readers cannot do better than purchase this hook."— Baker's Times. " Will be found as serviceable by private families as by restaurant chefs and victuallers in general. "—Miller. Laundry Work. A HANDBOOK OF LAUNDRY MANAGEMENT. For Use in Steam and Hand-Power Laundries and Private Houses. By the Editor of The Laundry Journal. Crown 8vo, 2s, 6d. cloth. [Just published, D 34 CROSB-i LOCK WOOD 6- SON 'S CATALOGUE. Horology, A TREATISE ON MODERN HOROLOGY, in Theory and Prac- ' tice. Translated from the French of Claudius Saunier, ex-Director of the School ot Horology at Macon, by Julien Tripplin, F.R.A.S., Besancon, Watch Manufacturer, and Edward Rigg, M.A., Assayer in the Royal Mint. With Seventy-eight Woodcuts and Twenty-two Coloured Copper Plates. Second Edition. Super-rcyal 8vo, £2 2S. cloth ; £2 los. half-calf. " There is no horological work in the English language at all to be compared to this produc- tion o[ M. Sauiiier's for clearness and completeness. It is alike good as a guide for the student and us a refcroice for the experienced horologist and skilled workman."— Boroioo-ical Journal. " The latest, the most complete, and the most reliable of those literary' productions to which continental watchmakers are indebted for the mechanical superiority over their English brethren —ill fact, the Book of Books, is M. Saunier's 'Treatise.'"— /Fa^cAwa/^er, Jcwelltr and Silversmith. Watchmaking, THE WATCHMAKER'S HANDBOOK. Translated from the French of Claudius Saunier, and considerably Enlarged by Julien Tripp- lin, F.R.A.S., Vice-President of the Horological Institute, and Edward Rigg, M.A., Assayer in the Royal Mint. With Numerous Woodcuts and Fourteen Copper Plates. Second Edition, Revised. With Appendix. Cr. 8vo, 9s. cloth. ** Each {jart is truly a treatise in itself. The arrangement is good and the language is clear and lOncise, It is an admirable guide for the young watchmaker."— " It is impossible to speak too highly of its excellence. It fulfils every requirement in a hand- 500k intended for the use of a workman. Should be found in every v/orkshop."— ^Fa/c/t and Zlockmaker. CHEMICAL MA NUFACTURES & COMMERCE. Alkali Trade J Manufacture of Sulphuric Acid, etc* A MANUAL OF THE ALKALI TRADE, including the Manufacture of Sulphuric Acid, Sulphate of Soda, and Bleaching Powder. By John Lomas, Alkali Manufacturer, Newcastle-upon-Tyne and London. With 232 Illustrations and Working Drawings, and containing 390 pages ol Text. Second Edition, with Additions. Super-royal 8vo, £1 los. cloth. "This book is written by a manufacturer for manufacturers. The working details of the most approved forms of apparatus are given, and these are accompanied by no less than 232 v.-ood en- gravings, all of which may be used for the purposes of construction. Every step in the manufac- Ture is very fully described in this manual, and each improvement explained." — Athencswn. " We find here not merely a sound and luminous explanation of the chemical principles of the •.raJe, but a notice of numerous matters which have a most important bearing on the successful ;ouduct of alkali works, but which are generally overlooked by even experienced technologica) au Lhors. " — Chemical Review. Bretving. A HANDBOOK FOR YOUNG BREWERS. By Herbert Edwards Wright, B.A. Crown 8vo, 3s. 6d. cloth. •' This little volume, containing such a large amount of good sense in so small a compass, ought to recommend itself to every brewery pupil, and many who have passed that ^stage."— Brewers Guardian. The book is very clearly written, and the author has successfully brought his scientific know- lodge to bear upon the various processes and details of brewing." — Breiver. Commercial Chemical Analysis. THE COMMERCIAL HANDBOOK OF CHEMICAL ANA- LYSIS; or, Practical Instructions lor the determination of the Intrinsic or Commercial Value of Substances used in Manufactures, in Trades, and in the Arts. By A. Normandy, Editor of Rose's "Treatise on Chemical Analysis." New Edition, to a great extent Re-written by Henry M. Noad, Ph.D., F.R.S. With numerous Illustrations. Crown 8vo, 12s. 6d. cloth. "We strongly recommend this book to our readers as a guide, alike indispensable to the house- vvife as to the pharmaceutical practitioner." — Medical Times. "Essential to the analj^sts appointed under the new Act. The most recent results are given, and the work is well edited and carefully written."— Aa/«r^ Explosives, A HANDBOOK OF MODERN EXPLOSIVES. Being a Practical Treatise on the Manufacture and Application of Dynamite, Gun- Cotton, Nitro-Glycerine, and other Explosive Compounds. By M. Eissler, Minin-g Engineer , Author of "The Metallurgy of Go'd," *• The Metallurgy oJ Silver," &c. With about 100 Illustrations. Crew: "ivo. lln the press- AGRICU/.iURE, FARMING, GARDENING, etc. 35 Dye-Wares and Colours. THE MANUAL OF COLOURS AND DYE-WARES : Their Properties, Applications, Valuation, Impurities, and Sophistications. For the use of Dyers, Printers, Drysalters, Brokers, &c. By J. W. Slater. Second Edition, Revised and greatly Enlarged. Crown 8vo, ys. 6d. cloth. •'A complete encyclopaedia of the materia tinctoria. The information given respecting each article is full and precise, and the methods of determining the value of articles such eis these, so liable to sophistication, are given with clearness, and are practical as well as yzX\xa!o\Q" —Chemist ajtd Druggist. " There is no other work which covers precisely the same ground. To students preparinqf for examinations in dyeing and printing it will prove exceedingly useful." — Chemical News. JPigments. THE ARTIST'S MANUAL OF PIGMENTS, Showing their Composition, Conditions of Permanency, Non-Permanency, and Adul- terations; Effects in Combination with Each Other and with Vehicles ; and the most Reliable Tests of Purity. Together with the Science and Arts Department's Examination Questions on Painting. By H. C. Standage. Second Edition, Revised. Small crown 8vo, 2S. 6d. cloth. " This work is indeed m^iltum-in-parvo, and we can, with good conscience, recommend it to all who come in contact with pigments, whether as makers, dealers or users." — Chemical Review. "This manual cannot fail to be a very valuable aid to all painters who wish their work to endure and be of a sound character ; it is complete and comprehensive." — Siectaior. "The author supplies a great deal of very valuable information and memoranda as to the chemical qualities and artistic effect of the principal pigments used by painters." — Builder. Gauging. Tables and Rules for Hevenue Officers, JSfdvcfs etc A POCKET BOOK OF MENSURATION AND GAUGING: Containing Tables, Rules and Memoranda for Revenue Officers, Brewers, Spirit Merchants, &c. By J. B. Manx (Inland Revenue). Oblong i8mo, 4s. leather, with elastic band. " This handy and useful book is adapted to the requirements of the Inland Revenue Depart- ment, and will be a favourite book of reference. The range of subjects is comprehensive, and the arrangement simple and clear." — Civilian. " A most useful book. It should be in the hands of every practical brewer "—Brewers:'' yournal. AGRICULTURE, FA RMING, G ARDENING, eto. Agricultural Facts and Figures. NOTE-BOOK OF AGRICULTURAL FACTS AND FIGURES FOR FARMERS AND FARM STUDENTS. By Primrose McConnell, Fellow of the Highland and Agricultural Society ; late Professor of Agricul- ture, Glasgow Veterinary College. Third Edition. Royal 32mo, full roan, gilt edges, with elastic band, 4s. " The most complete and comprehensive Note-book for Farmers and Farm Students that we have seen. It literally teems with mformation, and we can cordially recommend it to all connected with agrcuilture."— A^(7;V/« British Aj^riailturist. Youatt and Burn's Complete Grazier. THE COMPLETE GRAZIER, and FARMER'S and CATTLE- BREEDER'S ASSISTANT. A Compendium of Husbandry; especially in the departments connected with the Breeding, Rearing, Feeding, and General Management of Stock ; the Management of the Dairy, &c. With Directions for the Culture and Management of Grass Land, of Grain and Root Crops, the Arrangement of Farm Ofl&ces, the use of Implements and Machines, and on Draining, Irrigation, Warping, &c. ; and the Application and Relative Value of Manures. By William Youatt, Esq., V.S. Twelfth Edition, En- larged by Robert Scott Burn, Author of *' Outlines of Modern Farming," " Systematic Small Farming," &c. One large 8vo volume, 860 pp., with 244 Illustrations, £i is. half-bound. " The standard and text-book with the farmer and ^rs.z\er."— Farmer's Magazine. "A treatise which will remain a standard work on the subject as long as British agriculture endures." — Mark Lane Express (First Notice). "The book deals with all departments of agriculture, and contains an immense amount of valuable information. It is, in fact, an encyclopaedia of agriculture put into readable form, and it !s the only work equally comprehensive brought down to present date. It is excellently printed on thick paper, and strongly bound, and deserves a place in the library of every agriculturist."— Lane Rx^ress (Second Notice). . , . r " This esteemed work is well worthy of a place in the libraries of agriculturists."— iVi Third Edition, with considerable Additions, &c., and numerous Illustrations. Crown 8vo, 5s. cloth. *' A very good book, and one to be highly recommended as a practical guide. The practical directions are excellent." — Athenceuin. " May be recommended to young gardeners, cottagers and amateurs, for the plain and trust- worthy information it gives on common matters too often neglected." — Gardeners' Chroiticle. Gainful Gardening. MULTUM-IN-PARVO GARDENING; or, How to make One Acre of Land produce £620 a-year by the Cultivation of Fruits and Vegetables ; also, How to Grow Flowers in Three Glass Houses, so as to realise £176 per annum clear Profit. By Samuel Wood, Author of " Good Gardening," &c. Fourth and cheaper Edition, Revised, with Additions. Crown 8vo, is. sewed. "We are bound to recommend it as not only suited to the case of the amateur and gentleman's gardener, but to the market grower." — Gardeners' Magazuie. Gardening for Ladies. THE LADIES' MULTUM-IN-PARVO FLOWER GARDEN, :ind Amateurs' Complete Guide. By S. Wood. Crown 8vo, 3s. 6d. cloth. " This volume contains a g-ood deal of sound, common sense instruction." — Florist. " Full of shrewd hints and useful instructions, bcised on a lifetime of experience." — Scotsman, Receipts for Gardeners. GARDEN RECEIPTS. Edited by Charles W. Quin. i2mo, IS. 6d. cloth limp. "A useful and handy book, containing a good deal of valuable 'mioxm3.iiovi."—Aihenaum. Market Gardening. MARKET AND KITCHEN GARDENING. By Contributors to The Garden," Compiled by C. W. Shaw, late Editor of "Gardening Illustrated." i2mo, 3s. eii. cloth boards. [Just published, " The most valuable compendium of kitchen and market-garden work published."— /^ar;«^r. Cottage Gardening. COTTAGE GARDENING ; or, Flowers, Fruits, and Vegetables for Small Gardens. By E. Hobday. lamo, is. 6d. cloth limp. "Contains much useful information at a small charge."— G/aj^c^w Herald. CROSBY LOCK WOOD SON'S CATALOGUE. ESTATE MANAGEMENT, AUCTIONEERING, LAW, etc. Hudson^s Land Valtier^s FocJcet-BooJi, THE LAND VALUER'S BEST ASSISTANT: Being Tables on a very much Improved Plan, for Calculating the Value of Estates. With Tables for reducing Scotch, Irish, and Provincial Customary Acres to Statute Measure, &c. By R. Hudson, C.E. New Edition, Royal 32mo, leather, elastic band, 4s. "This new edition includes tables or ascertaining the value of leases for any term of years ; and for showing how to lay out plots of ground of certain acres in forms, square, round, &c., with valuable rules for ascertaining the probable worth of standing timber to any amount ; smd is of Incalculable value to the country gentleman and professional mdj[i."— Farmers' yourttal. Mwart^s Land Lmprovef'^s FocTi^et-Booh. THE LAND IMPROVER'S POCKET-BOOK OF FORMULM, TABLES and MEMORANDA required in any Computation relating to the Permanent Improvement of Landed Property. By John Ewart, Land Surveyor and Agricultural Engineer. Second Edition, Revised. Royal 32mo, oblong, leather, gilt edges, with elastic band, 4s. ••A compendious and handy little volume "S/ectatcr. Complete Agricultural Surveyor's Bocket-Book, THE LAND VALUER'S AND LAND IMPROVER'S COM- PLETE POCKET-BOOK. Consisting of the above Two Works bound to- gether. Leather, gilt edges, with strap, 7s. 6d. " Hudson's book is the best ready-reckoner on matters relating to the valuation of land and crops, and its combination with Mr. Ewart's work greatly enhances the value and usefulness of the latter-mentioned. . . . It is most useful as a manual for reference,"— iV(W//t <2/'£«^/a«c/i^ar;«fir. Auctioneer's Assistant. THE APPRAISER, A UCTIONEER, BROKER, HOUSE AND ESTATE AGENT AND VALUER'S POCKET ASSISTANT, for the Valua- tion for Purchase, Sale, or Renewal of Leases, Annuities and Reversions, and of property generally; with Prices for Inventories, &c. By John Wheeler, Valuer, &c. Fifth Edition, re-written and greatly extended by C. Norris, Surveyor, Valuer, &c. Royal 32mo, 5s. cloth. A neat and concise book of reference, containing an admirable and clearly-arranged list of prices for inventories, and a very practical guide to determine the value of furniture, &c."—5te«^3?