WILSON’S 
 
 LANTERN JOURNEYS. 
 
 A SERIES OF DESCRIPTIONS 
 
 JOUENEYS AT HOME AND ABKOAD, 
 
 FOR DSB WITH 
 
 PHOTOGKAPHIC VIEWS, THE STEKEOSCOPE, AND 
 MAGIC LANTEEN. 
 
 BY 
 
 Edward L. Wilson, 
 
 EDITOR OP “the PHILADELPHIA PHOTOGRAPHER,” ETC. 
 
 VOLUME III. 
 
 PHILADELPHIA : 
 
 EDWARD L. WILSON 
 1883 . 
 
Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1883, 
 
 By EDWARD L. WILSON, 
 
 In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C. 
 
PKEFACE. 
 
 The two volumes of descriptions which I have already had 
 the pleasure of preparing have met with such favor that I am 
 induced to follow with a third. This time I am enabled to 
 describe the product of my own camera, for during the first 
 half of last year, 1882, I visited Egypt, Palestine, Syria, 
 the Sinai Peninsula, and Arabia Petra. I conducted the 
 largest photographic expedition that was probably ever known. 
 And, as a result, I brought home a series of oriental 
 views, new and unattainable heretofore. And now, since they 
 are ready to do their work, I proceed with the next duty of 
 supplying descriptions for the information and help of those 
 who wish to enjoy and share the pleasures of my wanderings. 
 The work cost many a long, hard, and perilous journey, but it 
 also gave me many happy days, when I wished that everybody 
 might see and know all that I saw and learned. 
 
 The contents at this date, November, 1883, will include only 
 the descriptions of the last part of the route named above, but I 
 hope, as time permits, to follow with descriptions of the rest, 
 and fill up the volume to its proper size. Meanwhile, I hope 
 what has been written will be found useful and acceptable. 
 
 Edward L. Wilson. 
 
 Philadelphia, November, 1883 , 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 Suez to Mount Sinai, 
 
 Elim, .... 
 
 Mount Serbal, . 
 
 Wady Feiran, . 
 
 Mount Sinai, . 
 
 Convent at Mount Sinai, . 
 The Hill of Aaron, . 
 Hazeroth, 
 
 Gulf of Akabah, . 
 
 Akabah, .... 
 Mount Seir Route, . 
 
 Petra, .... 
 
 Mount Hor, 
 
 Ain El Weibeh (“ Kadesh”), 
 Departure from Arabia, . 
 Arab Manners and Customs, 
 
 PAGE 
 
 . 17 
 . 23 
 
 . 24 
 
 . 27 
 . 34 
 
 36 
 
 49 
 
 51 
 
 54 
 
 59 
 
 62 
 
 . 65 
 . 84 
 . 87 
 . 89 
 . 92 
 
WILSON’S 
 
 LANTERN JOURNEYS. 
 
 SINAI PENINSULA AND PETRA. 
 
 Perhaps no part of the world offers a more unique tour than 
 the peninsula of Sinai and Arabia Petraea. 
 
 The living in a tent ; the novel way of travelling on camel- 
 back ; the freedom of the desert-life, where there is no world or 
 people to consider or consult ; the entertainment derived from 
 the nomadic tribes met on the way, whose character and cus- 
 toms have not changed since the patriarchs lived there ; the 
 sea-coast travel ; the wilderness wandering ; the mountain 
 scenery; the glorious nights; the strange mirage; the im- 
 pressive associations ; the mystery of it all, and the genuine 
 smack of danger which there is about it continually, combine to 
 supply a most enjoyable, healthful, and instructive jaunt. 
 
 Then, added to all, there is the wondrous interest which 
 attaches to the land. Among its winding vales and lofty peaks 
 the most imposing events in history have taken place. When 
 idolatry and ignorance pervaded the rest of the peopled world, 
 here a great nation was prospering. Here the school of Israel 
 was established, and that theocracy upon which our own code of 
 morals is based was also promulgated and maintained. Some 
 of the sublimest poetry and choicest literary productions ema- 
 nated from this picturesque land, and from its soil the Koran 
 grew. 
 
 As we approach it, after leaving the sea between lands — the 
 classic Mediterranean — by means of the great Suez Canal cut 
 through the land between seas, near where Israel must have 
 crossed, we are startled from our thoughts of the past by the 
 shrill, sharp whistle of a steam-yacht. It glides cheerfully by. 
 
 2 
 
18 
 
 WILSON’S LANTERN JOURNEYS. 
 
 1. THE OLD WRECK, that relic of the past, stranded 
 upon the beach, and offers us present help to reach the land of 
 Goshen. In our imagination, then, we accept the offer, and 
 head for the quay at Suez. What memories of past history 
 loom up before us now 1 In sight is Suez. Between it and the 
 mountains are the plantations of Goshen. Before us the sea 
 crossed by the divinely led hosts of Israel. On our left, but a 
 short distance away, we may discern the outlines of the moun- 
 tains and the desert of Arabia. There, too, looking like mos- 
 quitoes, are some of our camels, creeping along the shore towards 
 the first camp occupied by the traveller in the Arabian desert. 
 Our little yacht now lands us upon the quay at Suez, and we 
 stand indeed upon oriental soil. 
 
 2. PANORAMA OF SUEZ FROM THE HOTEL.— 
 
 Climbing to the roof of our hotel, we get one of the best views 
 of the city, with the many minarets and domes of the various 
 mosques, and here and there a peep into the crooked streets. 
 We have here all the charms of an oriental view, including the 
 Egyptian mountains beyond. The strange noises which reach 
 the ear from the crowded streets below come from the people of 
 all parts of the world, brought here by the Suez Canal. Thus 
 Suez may well be called “The Naples of the Orient.” 
 
 3. THE STREET CALLED “STRAIGHT,” SUEZ.— To 
 
 obtain a real characteristic view of Suez, however, we must 
 descend to the streets. Of these, none is more singular looking 
 than the one which is called ‘ ‘ straight. ’ ’ It is, indeed, any- 
 thing but “straight.” It is always full of life and singular 
 ]ieople from all parts of the world. It is unnecessary to seek 
 further than among the inhabitants of Suez to see all that is 
 curious and queer of oriental life. Here are not only the Arab 
 and the Egyptian citizens, but many of the Bedouin who have 
 come over from Arabia, and the Fellahin from the country. 
 The city is squalid and dirty throughout ; the bazaars are dark 
 and uncomfortable, and their keepers noisy and troublesome. 
 
 4. IN THE MOSaUE COURT, SUEZ. A GROUP OF 
 ARAB BEGGARS. — In all of the streets beggars may be found 
 sleeping in the shade or in the sun, having no other occupation 
 
SINAI PENINSULA AND PETEA. 
 
 19 
 
 to pass away time, and awakening only when they are hungry 
 and compelled to beg or starve. Many picturesque groups of 
 these are seen in every direction, but the real ‘ ‘ quality ’ ’ beggar 
 will be usually found flocked with his comrades in the courts of 
 the mosques. If we visit one of these, we shall see such a 
 motley group as lies before us now, made up of old and young, 
 sick and well, but all alike shameless beggars. Little can be 
 said of their costumes because they are scant and dirty enough ; 
 yet, after all, there is a picturesqueness about these creatures 
 which makes them well worth a look. 
 
 5 . FATIMAH, OR THE ARAB GIRL PET.— Many of 
 the Arab children at Suez are exceedingly pretty and interest- 
 ing. Their natural grace is beautiful to look upon, and their 
 manners are amiable and pleasant. One of these little girls 
 has been secured for us by the photographer, and certainly she 
 is as pretty as many of our own American children. Her name 
 is Fatimah, the favorite name of Mohammed’s second wife, and 
 a name very much liked in Egypt. Fatimah wanted her brother 
 to be “taken” with her, but, lest he spoil her picture, he was 
 artistically posed where he could do no harm. 
 
 6. THE WATER-CARRIER AT SUEZ.— The cities of the 
 East are not all blessed with an abundant supply of water, and 
 therefore the gentleman whose picture appears now is a very 
 necessary personage. In all directions we hear him clicking his 
 metal or glass vessels together in his hands, and crying, at the 
 top of his voice, “moya!” “moya!” which means water, 
 water. They pour the healthful fluid from water-skins made of 
 the tanned hide of the goat, sewed together, and swung over 
 their shoulders. They gladlj^ sell to those able to buy, but as 
 cheerfully give to those who cannot afibrd to pay. 
 
 7. A GROUP OF BEDOUIN CHILDREN AT SUEZ.— 
 
 These squalid creatures have come over from the Arabian shore 
 undoubtedly with their parents to ‘ ‘ shop. ’ ’ They are frequently 
 seen in the streets of Suez. They are of a distinctly difierent 
 race from the Egyptian Arabs, and show it plainly, not only in 
 their characteristics, but in their appearance. They generally 
 get very little to cat, and less to wear, but dirt is plentifully 
 
20 
 
 Wilson’s lanteen joueneys. 
 
 supplied to them by nature, and they seem to thrive upon it. 
 Their teeth are always beautiful and clean; they are good- 
 natured, and seldom troublesome to the traveller ; they seem to 
 be frightened at the approach of our artist, and are not huddled 
 together very picturesquely, even though naturally. 
 
 8. JUNCTION OF THE SUEZ CANAL WITH THE 
 EED SEA.— The great work of the famous Suez Canal, which 
 serves to connect two great countries — yea, two worlds — in a 
 short way, is no doubt familiar to everybody. This section of 
 it is nearly always crowded with steamships and sailing-vessels 
 of all kinds on their way to or from the east and west and north 
 and south. Motley, indeed, are their curious crews, made up, 
 as they are, of men and women of all nations and tribes. 
 
 9. THE GUAEANTINE GUAETEES, SUEZ CANAL.— 
 
 Near the junction of the Suez Canal and the Red Sea or Isthmus 
 of Suez is a landing where travellers from the east and south 
 are compelled to stop for examination as to their health and 
 general condition before they are permitted to cross. With the 
 traveller going eastward, however, this is but a short formality, 
 and requires from us only a halt for a moment with our ferry- 
 boat and Arabian crew. Then we may proceed on our journey. 
 Sometimes very violent storms occur at this junction. The 
 effects of one of these may be seen in the tumble-down wall 
 which appears in the picture. 
 
 10. THE EGYPTIAN AEABIAN FEEEY-BOAT.— The 
 
 sea-ride from Suez to the Arabian shore requires about two 
 hours in a row or sail-boat, according to the wind. The ferry- 
 boats used by the Bedouin for this purpose are by no means 
 very palatial, but they are comfortable and safe, and the native 
 crew well understand their business ; they pull lustily, crying to 
 Allah for help. Although their speed is slow, it is always sure. 
 It seems like a very gentle way of reaching the desert from the 
 land of Goshen, but it is the only way. 
 
 11. THE AEABIAN GUAEANTINE CAMP.— The first 
 thing we see on stepping upon the Asian shore is a long line of 
 tents, located opposite Suez, for the accommodation of the 
 
SINAI PENINSULA AND PETRA. 
 
 21 
 
 iSpldiei'S who have charge of the quarantine at this point. Ex- 
 lamination of the travellers also takes place here, but it is brief 
 :and without annoj^ance. The camp, as will be seen, is very 
 much like one of our own army camps. It is to be shunned by 
 the traveller as carefully as any vessel lying in port held by these 
 isame parties, for the chance of catching disease in either case is 
 : about equal. 
 
 Here we find our caravan awaiting us, for it was sent over 
 from Suez by the overland route, by order of our careful drago- 
 man. He has been wise enough to secure his camels in the 
 sweet land of Goshen, instead of at Cairo, thus avoiding great 
 annoyance from fieas and insects. 
 
 Varied are the thoughts which come to us now as we first 
 stand upon the Asiatic shore and look back upon the land of 
 Goshen, whose waving grain fields and flocks of sheep and buf- 
 faloes we have just left, and the cry of whose attendants we can 
 still hear coming across the sea from the ancient home of Israel. 
 
 The mountains of Attaka on the other side are beautiful to 
 look upon. It must have required considerable faith on the part 
 of Israel to exchange such a land for the unpromising country 
 which they found on the other side. But we need not sigh for 
 the flesh-pots of Egypt, because here,- awaiting our arrival, are 
 barrels of water, coops of live chickens and pigeons, sheep, and 
 vegetables, with many delicacies for the table, to say nothing of 
 cooking and sleeping arrangements of the most comfortable 
 kind. These make the thing look more like a picnic for a day 
 than preparation for forty days’ travel in the wilderness. Now 
 our camels are made to bend their triple joints, and, notwith- 
 standing their gutteral grumbles, we mount them, while their 
 drivers, with one foot upon the left fore-knee of the camel, 
 assist us to our lofty seat upon the uneasy hump. Now, with a 
 pitch forward and a double lurch backward, and another fall to 
 the front, the great beasts’ joints are at their wonted poise, 
 and we are balanced in the air, taking our first camel-ride. 
 
 12. AYUN MOUSA. “THE WELL OF MOSES.”— The 
 
 first day on the desert is usually a short one, in mercy to the 
 traveller. So, in less than two hours, we arrive at Ayun Mousa, 
 
22 Wilson’s lantern journeys. 
 
 or “The Well of Moses,” near the lied Sea coast. We encamp 
 there for the night. This is a beautiful little oasis in the desert, 
 and consists of a number of springs of brackish water, with a 
 few small pools and gardens of palms and other trees around 
 them, and a few houses. There is evidence, too, that frequent 
 picnics from the other side are held here by the Egyptians, who 
 come to enjoy the freshness of the desert air. Upon the top of 
 a hill near by is a solitary palm. Near this it is supposed Moses 
 and his followers encamped first after having crossed the E,ed 
 Sea. A most beautiful view is commanded here. To the north lies 
 a vast, level plain of sand ; on the east a lovely range of Arabian 
 mountains; and on the northwest the mountains of Attaka, 
 which grace the beautiful promontory overhanging the gulf. 
 Their noble outlines and purple tints, when seen at sunset 
 against the blue sky, with the sea behind, present a scene grand 
 and sublime. Doubtless here Moses sang his song of deliver- 
 ance, joined by the bright and cheerful Miriam. Exodus xv. 
 
 13. AYUN MOUSA. THE WELL OF MOSES.— Another 
 portion of this beautiful oasis embodies a number of very beau- 
 tiful palms, together with several wells of good water which lie 
 at their feet. We may not state exactly at what spot the chil- 
 dren of Israel arrived on reaching this side of the Red Sea, but 
 it may be accepted as a fact that, certainly within the range 
 over which the eye can wander, the sea must have opened for 
 Israel to pass bj' and have closed over the hosts of the pursuing 
 enemy. 
 
 We are now surely in the “Way of the Wilderness,” spoken 
 of in Exodus xv : 23 ; Numbers xxxiii. 
 
 14. THE DEAD CAMEL. WELL OF MOSES.— One of 
 
 the sights frequently observed by the desert traveller is the 
 remains of the poor dead camel, which, finding the amount of 
 work required of him too much, has had to succumb. Although 
 once beloved by his master as much as a child, he is usually left 
 with indifference to supply food to the vultures, cormorants, and 
 jackals. Here he lies near the little settlement at Ayun Mousa 
 — a sad commentary upon the fate of the gentle camel. 
 
SINAI PENINSULA AND PETRA. 23 
 
 15. THE DESERT CARAVAH. THE START.— Some 
 idea may be had of the requiiemeats of the desert traveller 
 by what is before us. A quaint group, indeed, is made by the 
 camels and their Bedouin drivers. They are squatted in a group 
 for the purpose of our better understanding the companionship 
 we may expect during the rest of our tour. Each camel must 
 receive a share of the load of paraphernalia required to be taken 
 along, and, besides, must carry what little food he needs him- 
 self, with a skin of water for his attendants and food for his 
 master ; the last generally consists only of a little barley, and, 
 perhaps, a few beans and onions. Such a scene as this is pre- 
 sented to the traveller every morning previous to starting out, 
 for there is seldom any night travel. The tents are pitched at 
 certain stations towards . dusk, the dinner supplied, beds made 
 ready, and usually healthful sleep is the reward of the traveller. 
 
 16. MARAH; AIN HAWARAH.— This spot has been 
 considered by most travellers as the Marah of Scriptures, and 
 is located in the wilderness of Shur. Hereabouts the Israelites 
 “ went three days and found no water.” A poor spring of bitter 
 water exists here, overshadowed by a few palms. The name 
 Hawarah, we are told by Dr. Robinson, means “Fount of 
 Destruction.” Small oases are seen in several directions here 
 and there. Exodus xv : 23 ; Numbers xxxiii : 8. 
 
 17. A WELL AT ELIM.— In Exodus xv : 27 we read ; 
 “And they came to Elim, where were twelve wells of water and 
 threescore and ten palm trees, and they encamped there by 
 the waters.” Whether or not this little oasis is the actual 
 site of the Elim of the Bible, no one can tell. Tradition says 
 that it is. It is certain that it must lie somewhere not very far 
 away. A running stream wends its way through the rushes and 
 among the palms here, and several little wells or springs are 
 found in different places, certainly large enough to bathe in. 
 It is a beautiful spot indeed. 
 
 18. THE GREAT WELL AT ELIM.— The largest of these 
 wells is quite an attractive one, and supplies our caravan with 
 fresh water for another day or two of journey. The wady in 
 which this oasis is located is Ghurundel, and at this place is 
 
24 
 
 Wilson’s lantern journeys. 
 
 about six hundred yards wide. Numbers xxxiii : 9. A reflect- 
 ing and reflected cameleer helps our picture greatly. 
 
 19. ^ THE HILLS ABOUT ELIM. — The neighboring hills 
 of Elim are very beautiful and well covered with desert herbage, 
 femall clusters of stunted palms are also frequent. The beauti- 
 ful plant known as the Grhurkud, which some suppose to have 
 been the tree with which Moses sweetened the waters of Marah, 
 also grows plentifully here. A little stream which springs from 
 Ehm now follows our course for some distance out towards the 
 sea, making us a welcome and pleasant companion. Exodus 
 XV : 25. 
 
 20. WADY TAIYIBEH. — This place disputes with the last 
 one seen the honor of being Elim. The road between them is 
 down a valley, whose walls of limestone rock, reflecting the sun, 
 dazzle the eye and burn the face. Even the few springs of 
 brackish water which are here bubbling up are welcomed as a 
 pleasant change, not forgetting the groups of palms and tama- 
 risks which abound. This oasis is not so beautiful as the last 
 one, and our vote must be cast in favor of the other as being the 
 most likely Elim of the Bible. 
 
 21. THE ENCAMPMENT BY THE SEA.-We follow the 
 little stream seaward, and soon, on our left, we see the beautiful 
 cliffs of lava and conglomerate, in bright bands of red, black, 
 and yellow. In a moment more, lo ! the sea is visible again. 
 Many times during the afternoon a mysterious mirage has 
 greeted us on our right, and now we understand the reason. 
 VVe come out to the sea and slowly reach a large plain near the 
 mouth of the wady Taiyibeh, where is placed the site of Israel’s 
 
 encampment by the sea. ” Numbers xxxiii : 10. The beauty 
 of the mountains, cones, and cliffs here is beyond conception. 
 Bold, brown, umber, orange, red, purple, white, gray, and 
 black are all represented in the strata of varying depth and 
 domes of various heights. Each moment more color seems to 
 come. The wady ends here. The little stream gives its life 
 to the sea, and the mountains seem to stand back as if in awe 
 Here, too,_ is had the first view of Mt. Serbal. Across the sea 
 the Egyptian hills can yet be seen, just as they were when Israel 
 
SINAI PENINSULA AND PETRA. 
 
 25 
 
 passed by. We are now in Ras Abu Zenineh, named for a 
 Mohammedan saint. Here we spend the night. Not far from 
 here, in 188:2, Prof Palmer and his two companions were mur- 
 dered by the Bedouin. 
 
 22. A SEAWARD GLIMPSE FROM “ THE CAMP BY 
 THE SEA.” — An impression of the beauties surrounding this 
 historical spot is here given, showing what has already been 
 described of the shore of the sea, and of the African coast, 
 with its mountains upon the other side. See No. 21. It is a 
 typical bit, too, of desert scenery. The sandy plain is now left 
 behind, and the monotonous level is exchanged for such bits as 
 are here represented. 
 
 23. THE MOUNTAINS AROUND “ THE CAMP BY 
 THE SEA.” — Turning back from the sea, and looking upon the 
 great wady in which Israel must have encamped, we have some 
 beautiful displays of the forms which nature has created to beau- 
 tify this lovely spot. True, it is the desert. V ery little foliage, 
 if any, can be seen, and there is naught about it to cheer and 
 relieve the eye, as there is about our own mountains ; yet it is 
 all very beautiful. Gracing the foreground is a group of camels 
 and cameleers, loaded for the march. 
 
 24. THE LAST SIGHT OF EGYPT AND THE SEA.- 
 
 Before entering the long plain of the Wilderness of Sin, let us 
 take one more look at the land which we have left. W e stand 
 upon a wide, clear place, level and clean, between lines of sand 
 and granite hills, and protected on the east by mountains of 
 wondrous shape. Climbing one of these, we have a wondrous 
 “last look,” as it has already been called. We include the 
 place where our camp was, with mountains on one side and the 
 sea on the west. We may now in imagination walk down to the 
 shore, and, following it, pick up shells and pebbles, while our 
 camels follow us. Often we are compelled to actually step into 
 the water to get around the projecting rocks. In one place a 
 regular step-p 5 T*amid arises. Again, the rocks are grouped in 
 long rows of towers with painted roofs, one tier reaching above 
 the other. The hills on the Egyptian side of the sea look like 
 gray clouds, reminding one of capri from Naples. They are a 
 
2(j Wilson’s lanteen joukneys. 
 
 long time in sight of the traveller. Sometimes these lofty rock- 
 forms seem to bar the way entirely, but, on approaching them, 
 a narrow' pathway is found by which they may be passed. 
 Several of our camels have been caught in this view, with a 
 long stretch of the desert path which took us from the sea. A 
 long desert waste is now followed, and no point of great interest 
 is found until we reach 
 
 25. AN EGYPTIAN TEMPLE RUINS AT WADY 
 KENEH. — “"ISrow where?” and “What next?” are the 
 queries often put to the dragoman in this richly beautiful 
 country by the wondering wanderer as he winds zigzag up the 
 walled passage, climbing all the way, or traverses the beach by 
 the sea. We now reach the top of a range of hills, and lo ! we 
 see the summit of Mt. Serbal in full view in the distance, and 
 get our Srst glance at Mt. Sinai still further. Towards night 
 we find a quarried temple high up the mountain. It is doubt- 
 less of Egyptian construction, for here are cartouches of Rameses 
 II. and others. Undoubtedly this temple was excavated from 
 the mountain- side in olden time to accommodate the workmen 
 in the turquoise mines of Maghara, close by. The old structure 
 is now completely ruined, and few traces of its original glory are 
 left. 
 
 26. A BEDOUIN WOMAN AND HER CAMEL.— All 
 
 along our route we find Bedouin women attending to the flocks 
 of sheep and goats. Agreeable to the injunctions of the Koran, 
 these timid shepherdesses turn from us as soon as they see us 
 coming. Occasionally, however, we meet one, and this time 
 have secured a fair specimen for our study. Her face is always 
 covered it being “a shame” for her to show it; but we are 
 not deprived of securing a picture of her head-gear, which 
 backsheesh persuaded her to allow to be photographed. 
 
 The following is an inventory of her trinkets made at the time 
 of taking : 
 
 First, a lower face veil, in the best Cairo style, to which by 
 various springs, cords, etc., were attached the following: 
 
 Four brass pantaloon-buttons, united by cords in the form of 
 a Greek cross, on the top of her head. 
 
SINAI PENINSULA AND PETEA. 
 
 27 
 
 Near each temple, a one and a quarter inch iron harness-ring, 
 one-eighth of an inch thick ; a brass button pendent from each 
 ring ; down the temples, at the corners of the veil, two pieces 
 of iron and brass jack-chain, taken from tourists’ sun-umbrella 
 handles ; thirteen bead necklaces decorated her swarthy neck 
 and bosom ; besides these, beads hung from her ears, and three 
 pairs of heavy amber and two metal bracelets adorned each 
 wrist; rings were on the thumbs and fingers, and a brass navy 
 button hung about her neck by a cord ; a huge darning-needle 
 was stuck in an ugly hair-horn which projected from her fore- 
 head. Most valuable of all, an unnumbered lot of Egyptian 
 piasters hung dangling from a mystery of cords which had their 
 source from the holes of the aforesaid trouser-buttons. Had 
 she been unmarried, strips of mother-o’ -pearl would have been 
 added to the assortment. There is some excuse, however, for 
 this tawdry decoration, for the Bedoiiin woman may at any time 
 be turned away by her husband. Therefore she practises the 
 carrying of her property about with her, in order to be ready to 
 “ leave” at short notice. 
 
 27. THE ROCK OF MOSES. HESEY EL KHATA- 
 TEEN. — We are now in the beautiful Wady Feiran. At a 
 sharp angle with the valley, on its left side, there is a large 
 block of fallen granite covered with a heap of pebbles and small 
 stones. This is called Hesey el Khatateen, and is declared by 
 the Bedouin to be the identical rock struck by Moses to supply 
 the thirsty Israelites with water, as mentioned in Exodus xvii : 
 6, “Behold, I will stand before thee there upon the rock in 
 Horeb ; and thou shalt smite the rock, and there shall come 
 water out of it, that the people may drink. ’ ’ This great rock 
 looks as though it had been separated from the mountain by 
 some convulsion of nature. Its front towards the Wady is 
 about twenty feet wide and twelve feet high, and towards one 
 end from top to bottom is not only a crack, but a wedge-shaped 
 depression, nearly three inches wide and one and a half inches 
 deep, from which a piece or strip must have once fallen ; this 
 depression, it is said, was caused by the rod of Moses, and from 
 the crack ran “the waters of Meribah and Marah, of temptation 
 
28 Wilson’s lantern journeys. 
 
 and strife.” And here too is the great plain where the children 
 of Israel could find plenty of room to stand, and murmur, and 
 drink, and receive their scolding from Moses and Aaron. The 
 mountains seem on all sides grand and sublime. Here Mount 
 Serbai looks on with an all-seeing eye. hi umbers xxxiii ; 14. 
 
 28. A GARDEN IN WADY FEIRAN. CUTTING 
 RICE.— After passing the Rock of Moses, in about an hour, 
 the oasis in Wady Feiran is reached. There is no “pillar of 
 cloud” to lead us, nor of “fire” to guard us, though the red 
 porphyry hills near by seem almost like the latter. Now the 
 feeling comes over one that he is indeed upon the track of a 
 people led by Grod. Here abound the beautifhl palms, and near 
 by is a trickling little brook. It is a real joy to see such a place 
 in the desert. As we draw near, we also see the beautiful little 
 gardens of the Bedouin, and a lad cutting rice in one of the 
 tiny fields. But we shall have other opportunities of seeing these 
 beautiful oases in detail, so we proceed with the real earnest 
 work of the neighborhood, viz., the climb to the top of Mt. 
 Serbai. 
 
 29. FROM THE SUMMIT OF MT. SERBAI, TO- 
 W^ARDS EGYPT. To make the ascent of Mt. Serbai from 
 Wady Feiran and return, requires at least twelve hours; the 
 first two on camel-back up the wady, where many colored 
 blocks of stone are met with ; then a hard climb up a steep 
 gorge, of nearly three hours more. Tall cliffs guard the way on 
 either side, and snow and ice to cool one here and there are 
 found. There are five peaks to this glorious group, one of whose 
 summits it is our desire to reach. If in due season we accom- 
 plish it, we will find ourselves well rewarded for our labor. On 
 this point, where we in imagination stand, we can see nearly the 
 whole of the Sinai peninsula lying at our feet. Our present 
 view is towards Egypt. Surely, if this be not the mountain upon 
 which Moses received the law, and whence he read it to Israel, 
 It is nolle enough to have that honor. But it exacts heavy 
 tribute from any one who masters it. It is 6374 feet hieh. 
 This view towards Egypt includes the great mountain ranges of 
 Africa at our feet, the desert, the blue sea, the broad expanse 
 
SINAI PENINSULA AND PETRA. 
 
 29 
 
 of country beyond, with great lines of color, delicate and soft, 
 reaching in every direction, the winding, changing road over 
 which we have been travelling from Suez. 
 
 30. FROM THE SUMMIT OF MT. SERBAL TO- 
 WARDS WADY FEIRAX. — This view embraces the whole 
 of the oasis at our feet, the group of “holy” hills near it, the 
 traveller’s camp, the battlefield where Amalek and Israel fought, 
 and overlooking the grand mountains between the winding wadies 
 which separate them. 
 
 31. FROM THE SUMMIT OF MT. SERBAL TOWARDS 
 MT. SINAI. — Now looking southward, lo ! we see the whole of 
 the Mt. Sinai range, with the wadies over which we shall travel 
 south and east presently ; where Moses lost his way ; mountains 
 in abundance, over which, creeping like great red serpents, see 
 the curved lines of porphyry. Our Sinai route is mapped 
 plainly before us ; not far from the sea, yet winding among the 
 mysteries of the mountains. 
 
 32. FROM THE SUMMIT OF MT. SERBAL TOWARDS 
 SUEZ. — ^Looking northwest towards Suez, the sea-coast is in- 
 cluded with the route taken by us in our journey hither, with 
 Ayun Mousa, Marah, Elim, the Camp by the Sea, Wady 
 Grhurundel, and the mountains of granite and sandstone already 
 described. 
 
 33. FROM THE SUMMIT OF MT. SERBAL.— A further 
 view was made from the very highest point of all, and includes 
 naturally the tops of the other noble peaks of Mt. Serbal, east 
 of us. In the extreme distance the peaks of Mt- Sinai, the 
 Convent of St. Katherina, J ebels Katherina, Mousa, and 
 Sufsafeh are seen. The clearness of the air enables us to 
 obtain wide views in every direction ; no one can tell how far 
 distant. Certainly from the Gulf of Akabah on one side and 
 the Gulf of Suez on the other, with myriads of mountains 
 between which seem to be sleeping at our feet. We are higher 
 than any of them. 
 
 34. THE GORGE; DESCENDING MT. SERBAL.— Now 
 
 descending the mountain by means of a great gorge between two 
 
30 Wilson’s lantekn joueneys. 
 
 of the highest peaks, we stop a moment as we descend and look 
 back. Our jocular dragoman calls this “a good Roman road,” 
 but it is termed by the guide-books more properly “The Road 
 of the Sweater, ’ ’ for such indeed it is. Observe the great cliff 
 on the one side nearly three thousand feet perpendicular, up 
 which no person could possibly climb ; then see the more broken 
 outlines on the other side. Between is the awful gorge paved 
 with masses of immense rocks and rocky debris of all colors and 
 shapes. It gives, too, a magnificent view, and depicts the trials 
 of the traveller as he descends. The climb up as well as down 
 seemed interminable, and can only be done cautiously step by 
 step. The traveller will often feel thankful in making such a 
 descent that he has the protection of good American boots, 
 rather than the naked feet of the Arab, to help him along. 
 The bare feet of the guides are torn and lacerated terribly before 
 the end of the journey is reached and the camels are again 
 mounted. If we are happy in our choice of the time of day, 
 as we look back upon Mt. Serbal we shall see the setting sun 
 tipping the five great peaks with glorious crimson. This lasts 
 but a moment, and then the light goes out, the wady grows 
 cool, and we are glad to reach our camp again by the light of 
 the moon. There Abdullah has prepared a comfortable meal, 
 with a good bed to follow. 
 
 35. JEBEL ET TAHOONEH. WADY FEIRAN — On 
 
 the summit of Jebel et Tahooneh still remain the ruins of an 
 old church, shown in the present view. It was doubtless erected 
 there by the Anchorites, who inhabited this region during the 
 fifth and sixth centuries, and to whom we are indebted for the 
 historical link which connects the previous and the subsequent 
 centuries. This is a fine old peak, and in the foreground we see 
 a bit of the rock and the mountain on which Moses sat during 
 the fight with Amalek. This bit is of bright diorite and red 
 porphyry embedded in a mass of green malachite. It was in 
 this region that Mr. Ebers, the famed historian and novelist, 
 located his enchanting novel, Homo- Sum." In it he also 
 alludes to this fine old ruin. 
 
 38. A GUM-ARABIC TREE. WADY FEIRAN.— This 
 tree is said to have “stood here in the time of Moses,” though 
 
SINAI PENINSULA AND PETKA. 
 
 31 
 
 none can tell. It is worshipped by the Arabs as the “holy 
 tree, ’ ’ and sooner would they lose a large number of their tribe 
 in battle than to see it in the least bit suffer destruction. It is 
 of interest because of the gum which it bears, so useful in com- 
 merce, and is undoubtedly of great age. It is, perhaps, sixty 
 feet across and nearly as high, and affords a pleasant shade to 
 the traveller in the desert. There are few like it in Arabia, 
 which fact adds to its interest and value. 
 
 37. A SHITTIM-WOOD TREE. WADY FEIRAN.- 
 
 This tree is also mentioned in Scripture, and, although not so 
 beautiful as the gum- Arabic tree, is still a very fine one, and is 
 also considered by the Bedouin here as a “ holy tree. ’ ’ It is 
 only interesting because of its age and of its Scriptural men- 
 tion. Ex. XXV : 5 ; xxvii : 1. 
 
 38. JEBEL EL MAHARRAD. THE MOUNTAIN OF 
 MOSES, W.— It is said that on the summit of this mountain 
 Moses sat when Aaron and Hur upheld his arms while the con- 
 test between the Israelites and the Amalekites took place in the 
 wady below. It stands here like an island, being disconnected 
 from the other mountains, with wadies and plains on every side. 
 It is covered with ruins of buildings and debris. Exodus xvii. 
 
 39. JEBEL EL MAHARRAD. THE MOUNTAIN OF 
 MOSES, S.E. — This view is from another portion of the moun- 
 tain, showing more closely the ruins of the ancient buildings, 
 and giving a partial view of the wady towards Mt. Serbal. 
 Perhaps within sight Moses built the altar Jehovah-Nissi. 
 Exodus xvii : 15. 
 
 40. THE BATTLEFIELD FROM THE MT. OF MOSES. 
 
 — To make sure of getting the real battlefield where J oshua led 
 Israel against Amalek, our artist has made a view towards each 
 possible point Moses could cover, all around the mountain, from 
 its top. This view is the one towards the west, which seems to 
 the traveller a more likely battlefield than the others, and more 
 easily covered by Moses from the mountain summit. 
 
 41. THE BATTLEFIELD FROM THE MT. OF MOSES. 
 
 > — This view overlooks the oasis of Feiran, where is the brook 
 
32 
 
 Wilson’s lantern journeys. 
 
 of water which was undoubtedly the inuocent cause of the con- 
 test. Our photographer’s camp is also located here, doubtless 
 near the old quarters of Amalek ; the plain where the battle 
 might have been fought and the fertile gardens of Feiran are 
 also seen. It is doubted, however, that the battle was fought 
 here, since the Amalekites would take care before opening battle 
 that the Israelites did not enter so far into the wady as to reach 
 the oasis itself before they gave them battle. If they did, they 
 exhibited bad generalship. Exodus xvii : 8-1 f. 
 
 42. RUINED STONE-HOUSES. WADY EEIRAN.— 
 
 The history of these old buildings cannot be told. It is claimed 
 by some that they were occupied by the Amalekites and after- 
 wards by the Israelites ; but it is more likely that they were 
 built by the Romans near the town of Feiran (the ancient 
 Pharan) when it was in its glory. Some of them are still 
 occupied by Arabs, one of whom is seated at his door, ‘ ‘ the 
 monarch of all he surveys, ’ ’ but by no means monarch of the 
 Amalekites. The walls seem to have been built without tools, 
 and the colored stones of which they are composed would make 
 good-looking houses in some of our home cities. 
 
 43. CAVES OF THE ANCHORITES, JEBEL ET TA- 
 HOONEH.-The caves of the Anchorites, however, are of still 
 more humble construction. In fact they are excavated from the 
 rock, and are mere holes. The old hermits who used to live 
 here, whose history has been made so interesting by Mr. Ebers, 
 did one good thing at least ; they preserved history in this region 
 for many generations. They deserve our thanks for their will- 
 ingness to do so, for their homes were wretched. Our artist 
 has added to his picture, to improve the foreground, some old 
 timbers brought here by the freshet. They show what the water 
 occasionally does in these wadies during the spring rains. 
 
 44. THE GARDEN IN WADY FEIRAN. ARABS 
 GATHERING MANNA. — In this picturesque view we have 
 another garden scene with a manna tree in the foreground. 
 Under it we notice a Bedouin seated in the act of collecting 
 manna. This pretty bit is only one of many in this lovely oasis. 
 A portion of a very eccentric fence is shown, which is made of 
 
SINAI PENINSULA AND PETRA. 
 
 33 
 
 broken twigs and branches. It is more picturesque than strong, 
 since material for fences is very scarce in this neighborhood, unless 
 they be made of stone, which is often the case. Near here Israel 
 murmured because fed with quails and manna. Exodus xvi : 
 4 - 31 . 
 
 45. CLIMBING TOWARDS MT. SINAI.-After passing 
 through the gardens, and groves, and palms, and other trees for 
 some time, meeting many flocks of sheep and goats on the way 
 attended by shepherdesses, we again plunge into the rocky desert. 
 Once in a while Sinai puts in an apj)earance. Magnificent views 
 of Serbal are had by turning around and looking back. The 
 wady is now dreary, hot, and tiresome. Exodus xvi. 
 
 Whenever the hour of noon overtakes the traveller in the 
 desert, it is his custom to stop the caravan, erect his lunch-tent, 
 and take what is always welcome — a rest and lunch. Sometimes 
 it happens to be on a sandy plain, sometimes by the foot of a 
 noble peak; while at other times it occurs in the midst of a 
 rough passage, like the one shown in our picture, where the 
 camels, with their attendants and the travellers, are seen creeping 
 slowly down a nugb or stony pass, now towards Mt. Sinai. Such 
 pictures as this represent bits of life in the desert which are 
 always interesting and add zest to the experience of tourists. 
 
 46. THE MT. SINAI RANGE, FROM THE WEST.— The 
 
 thoughtful traveller, with this glorious group in view, now 
 begins to feel himself very near the “Mount of God,” and 
 forgets everything in his contemplation of the majestic scene 
 before him. He is ascending rapidly the famous nugb HS,wa, 
 which is a steep, stony pass between the mountains, resembling 
 the gorge ascending Mt. Serbal, though not quite so difficult. 
 It is hard to describe the first feeling which the traveller has on 
 beholding this glorious group. Doubtless a similar feeling takes 
 possession of the beholder now. Exodus iii, xvii : 6 ; xxxiii : 6 ; 
 Deut. i : 6 ; iv : 10 ; Exodus xix and xxvi. 
 
 47. NUGB HAWA, OR “PASS OF THE WIND,” NEAR 
 MT. SINAI. — When climbing such rough places the kindly 
 traveller will dismount from his camel and relieve the patient 
 animal all he can by walking. The ascent of this famous nugb 
 
 3 
 
34 
 
 WILSON’S LANTERN JOURNEYS. 
 
 is full of difficulty, but its beauties are also glorious on every 
 side. No more rocky road exists, and no animal can climb it 
 so safely as the camel. 
 
 48. CLIMBING UP NUC-B EAWA.-Tho difficulties of 
 the climber may be more readily understood by this picture. It 
 represents the camels making the ascent, slowly, but sure-footed, 
 and always patient ; never grumbling except when they are com- 
 manded to do something out of the usual way. Such a clamber 
 can never be forgotten, because of its novelty and the real dan- 
 ger of it. 
 
 49. A FOUNTAIN IN NUGB HAWA, WITH AN ARAB 
 CAMELEER DRINKING. — Here the traveller finds a stop- 
 ping-place, for that great rarity in the desert, a spring of good 
 water, is here. Hence our last view was made, and here the little 
 spring or “fountain” now seen was photographed before the 
 water was all taken up by the thirsty camels. One of the 
 camel-drivers is caught by our artist in the act of lapping the 
 water from his earthen vessel, Arab fashion. 
 
 50. DESCENDING NUGB HAWA TOWARDS MT. 
 SINAI. — Now the pass becomes more difficult, and our traveller 
 dismounts again in order to relieve the camels of some of their 
 burden. The pass winds in every direction by the sides of the 
 mountains. These defiles of rocky debris, which at some time 
 must have tumbled from the neighboring hills, are met all the 
 time as we ascend the Sinai group. On all sides glorious moun- 
 tains, bleak and bold, arise, causing the traveller to wonder every 
 foot of the way. Very few of the passes in our own mountains 
 are so rough and rugged as this, and few here are more acces- 
 sible. It seems as though the camels could not hold on to the 
 rocks when climbing such ascents as this, but they are skilful, 
 and very rarely fall. 
 
 51. THE MT. SINAI GROUP, FROM ABOVE THE 
 PLAIN OF ER-RAHA. — As the plain of Er-Raha is ap- 
 proached, the Sinai peaks appear still more magnificent. The 
 edge of the “plain of assemblage,” as it is called, begins close 
 to the highest point of the nugb, then descends towards the 
 
SINAI PENINSULA AND PETRA. 
 
 35 
 
 Convent of St. Katherina, and presents a magnificent view. 
 One is impressed with the feeling that here or hereabouts was 
 certainly the place of the assemblage, and that beyond some one 
 of those distant peaks was where Moses stood when he read the 
 commandments to the children of Israel. The thing that most 
 strikes the American traveller is the fact, that although here 
 are multitudes of mountains and wadies, and here and there an 
 oasis visible, yet never a stream or the noise of a cascade is 
 heard. All is quiet, grand, beautiful, and impressive. 
 
 52. A “NAWAMI” (ROCK) HOUSE AND BEDOUIN 
 CAMP, PLAIN OF ER-RAHA. — Now descending the plain 
 of Er-Raha toward our camping ground we find one of those 
 curious homes of the Bedouin, excavated from the rocks. Near 
 by is a Bedouin camp made of tents, with flocks of sheep and 
 their attendants close by. These curious homes are sought for 
 by the Bedouin because of their shelter from the storm at cer- 
 tain times of the year, though most of the time these curious 
 people wander about and live in tents. They are very numerous 
 in this neighborhood, and seem to be quite comfortable, con- 
 sidering the scarcity of supplies in this wild country. The whole 
 scene here is impressive, especially if one could observe it at 
 sunset, when the flocks come home. The ride over the plain is 
 full of interest, for on every side are mountains associated with 
 history and with tradition, which cause an unending amount of 
 thought and pleasure. 
 
 53. OUR CAMP AT MT. SINAI.-Glad enough is the 
 desert traveller to reach Mt. Sinai. He has had to undergo 
 sundry privations and hardships, of course, during the time 
 since he left Suez ; and although the pleasures are very great, 
 and he is constantly excited and interested by what he sees, the 
 flesh grows weak, and he is glad enough to reach camp again. 
 Here we see him located in his desert home close to the foot of 
 Mt. Sinai. Here are the dining-tents, the kitchen and the 
 living tents, and those which belong to the caravan ; arranged in 
 front of them are the camels and their drivers, including the 
 baby camel, which sits close to its mother upon one side. The 
 .young camel is a very amusing companion, and makes up a great 
 
36 
 
 WILSON’S LAMTEKN JOUKNEYS. 
 
 (leal of pleasure for the traveller on the way. It is constantly 
 getting behind, when it cries, and its mother refuses to go further 
 until it catches up. Still all this is tolerated for the sake of the 
 amusement it furnishes, and the baby becomes always a great 
 pet. Around the camp here at Mt. Sinai the “Holy Moun- 
 tains ’ ’ arise in every direction. The nugb Hawa and the plain 
 of Er-Raha are at the left, the “Mount of the Grolden Calf” lies 
 between the tents and the mountain opposite. The Sinai group 
 is behind the camp, while on the right is a mountain rever- 
 enced by the Bedouin as the place where Mohammed once prayed 
 to Grod for his protection. Between it and the camp is the old 
 monastery of St. Katherina. It is a wonderfully impressive 
 spot. In our foreground is our photographer, caught in the act 
 of making the view. 
 
 54. CONVENT OF ST. KATHERINA AND JEBEL EL 
 MONEIJAH.— A whole day devoted to this strange old monas- 
 tery is little enough to see all of interest there. The approach 
 to it from the camp is up a hill, which hides it entirely from 
 sight until it is almost reached, then down again to the valley, 
 perhaps, in all, half a mile. Great barren, stony, naked clilFs 
 are on each side of the path, and a great surprise is given in this 
 dreary, desert, dead place, now, for here is a lovely garden spot 
 in all the blooming beauty of spring. Hundreds of almond, 
 peach, and cherry trees are in the full glory of blossom, with 
 many olive trees in the delicate green of their early foliage. 
 
 In striking contrast, amidst a lot of gaily colored domes, are 
 numerous slender cypress trees, which, like minarets, seem to 
 reach almost to the sky. Underneath these, surrounded by a 
 rude wall, is a large garden, now green with vegetable growth. 
 Beyond the garden is the quaint old monastery, within whose 
 walls there are space and structure sufficient to support a town. 
 Jebel el Moneijah, the mountain in the distance, is sometimes 
 called “ the hill of the conference.” It is looked upon by the 
 Bedouin as a place of great sanctity worthy of profound venera- 
 tion, and they sacrifice to Moses upon it once every year. On 
 the summit is a small enclosure of loose stones, where thev are 
 accustomed to leave some votive offerings whenever they visit 
 
SINAI PENINSULA AND PETRA. 
 
 37 
 
 the place. The ground is covered with bits of old pieces of 
 camel-rope and human hair and other relics of the faithful. 
 Their sacrifices are usually followed by a serenade, which is very 
 interesting, often musical, and which generally ends with “Oh! 
 place of Moses’ conference, we seek thee and thy privileges. 
 Save the good folk, and we will visit thee every year ! ’ ’ 
 
 55. THE GARDEN OF THE CONVENT OF ST. KATH- 
 ERINA AND JEBEL MODS A. — We now approach the 
 garden of the Convent and see the beauties which have just 
 been described more plainly. The view shows in the distance 
 the cliffs of Jebel Mousa. Striking bits are here gathered in 
 one view. The heart thrills with the interest with which it is 
 affected by seeing such contrasts as this beautiful oasis gives in 
 connection with the rugged, bare, desolate mountain clifis be- 
 yond. 
 
 56. VISITORS BEING HOISTED UP THE WALL OF 
 THE CONVENT OF ST. KATHERINA.— Now we come to 
 the very gate of the Convent of St. Katherina and knock for 
 admission. Only a few years ago a terrible massacre occurred 
 here, when nearly all the inmates of the Convent were killed by 
 the Bedouins. Then it was that all the gates of approach were 
 walled up, and the only method of reaching the interior was by 
 means of hoisting apparatus inside which raises and lowers a 
 rope from the ground. Thus the visitor, who was permitted, 
 gained admittance to the Convent over the top of the wall. 
 Here we see two of our American travellers thus being hoisted 
 up. Presently we shall see the means employed for this work. 
 
 57. ENTRANCE GATE OF THE CONVENT OF ST. 
 KATHERINA.— There is, however, another means now of 
 reaching the Convent, since peace with the Bedouin reigns. 
 It is by a great gate, which we enter, armed with the introduc- 
 tion required from the branch convent at Cairo. This is much 
 easier than entering by means of a rope and the trap-door at the 
 top of the wall, thirty feet above ground. Entering the court 
 by this gate, we find a low door from one of the buttresses on 
 the north side of the Convent. Our permit read, we are soon 
 admitted to the great and curious interior. 
 
38 
 
 Wilson’s lantern journeys, 
 
 58. GROUP OF MONKS, CONVENT ST. KATHERINA. 
 
 — Entering the walls of the Convent proper, we at once en- 
 counter a number of monks who reside there. They are mainly 
 Greeks or Russians. We are welcomed by them and made at 
 once to feel at home. These gentlemen are secluded from the 
 world outside of their convent walls and neighborhood, and con- 
 sider themselves more blessed for remaining thus for a number 
 of years, or often for life. As a class they are intelligent and 
 affable, and take pains to make the stay of the visitor pleasant 
 and interesting. There are some hard cases among them, how- 
 ever. 
 
 59. FATHER GREGORIAN— A GREEK PRIEST.— 
 
 Some of these monks are not only very handsomely dressed, but 
 are also very handsome in person ; and it is hard to understand 
 how men, who are able by their culture and graces to be so 
 useful and so pleasant in the world, can bring themselves to 
 hide their lives in this way. With none was this more so than 
 with Father Gregorian, who is certainly the finest looking monk 
 in the convent. It ought to be stated, however, that some of 
 these men are banished here for a time by their church laws for 
 offences given, insubordination, etc. 
 
 60. A MANUSCRIPT PAGE OF THE CODEX SINAI- 
 TICUS OF TISCHENDORF. — This beautiful manuscript of 
 the New Testament was discovered here by the famous scholar 
 Tischendorf, and removed to St. Petersburg, where it now is, 
 and where a copy was made of it and sent back to the Convent. 
 The portion which is here shown is of the first chapter of John, 
 and is written in the Arabic language. 
 
 61. ANCIENT MANUSCRIPT OF THE GOSPELS. 
 TITLE-PAGE AND PORTRAIT OF ST. JOHN.— Another 
 curiosity shown to the stranger in the library of the convent is 
 this illuminated manuscript of the gospels, which is written on 
 vellum in letters of gold. Since Tischendorf carried away the 
 other manuscript, the monks are so very careful of this one that 
 they will not permit it to go out of their hands. Therefore our 
 artist has captured it with a page of the manuscript and the 
 
SiNAI PENINSULA AND PETRA. 39 
 
 hands of the Superior of the Convent in the act of holding the 
 precious voluuie. On one page is the portrait of St. John. 
 
 62. AN ANCIENT MANUSCEIPT OF THE NEW 
 TESTAMENT, MATTHEW FIRST, WITH A POR- 
 TRAIT OF ST. MATTHEW. — This is a view of another 
 portion of the last-mentioned, precious manuscript, showing 
 how beautifully it is written and how splendidly it is illumi- 
 nated. The figures are all in color, while the letters are in gold. 
 The portrait is of St. Matthew. 
 
 63. MOSaUE AND CHURCH OF THE CONVENT, AND 
 THE MT. SINAI GROUP. — Within this old monastery are 
 many places of interest and articles of value. It contains a 
 church and a mosque. The first with its pretty belfry or camp- 
 anile, and the other with its old shattered minaret — a strange 
 companion, indeed, for a Christian church. But for policy’s 
 sake this mosque is allowed, for only on consideration that the 
 mosque should remain here is the church permitted, since the 
 Mohammedan is ever ready to destroy the work of the “ Chris- 
 tian dog’ ’ when it is in his power to do so. In this case the 
 mosque is the protection. It is seldom used, however, as the 
 Bedouin generally thinks but little of his mosque. The roof 
 of the old church is covered with sheets of lead, heavy enough 
 to break down an ordinary structure ; but here everything is 
 strongly and well made, and not liable to go to destruction. In 
 the distance we see the Mt. Sinai group towering far above all. 
 The great peaks seem to stand there to protect the buildings 
 erected in their honor. 
 
 64. INTERIOR OF THE GREEK CHURCH AND 
 CONVENT OF ST. KATHERINA. — This is one of the 
 
 quaintest places in all the world. Here are examples not only 
 of the strangest sort of architecture, but bits of art-work, 
 which make up a very curious collection. It includes many fine 
 lamps of great value; painted altar screens, patchwork, brass- 
 work, candelabra with bronze lions at their feet, and a curious 
 mosaic floor; carved stalls; a pendulum clock, and a large 
 amount of gaudy tinsel and finery. Usually these valuable 
 articles are kept covered, but the brothers were good enough to 
 
40 Wilson’s lantern journeys. 
 
 expose them to the camera for our instruction and pleasure. 
 In the rear are several little chapels, where are bronze eflSgies 
 of St. Katherina, said to have been presented by the Empress 
 Catherine of Russia. In another old chapel is a place where 
 the light comes from the outside through a rift in the rock. 
 Ihrough this it is said that the fire came and kindled the burn- 
 ing bush when the Lord met Moses. Exodus hi. The semi- 
 dome roof of one of these chapels is decorated with a fine 
 mosaic representation of the transfiguration, and under the 
 chapel at the place of the burning bush three lamps are kept 
 lighted continuously. These places are held very sacred by the 
 monks, and it is difficult to obtain admission to them. 
 
 The church service here is most singular and quaint. Nearly 
 the whole of it is sung. Among the monks we see old and 
 young, with good faces and bad. The hair usually is as long as 
 women wear it. The monks have fine beards, wear gowns and 
 high-top hats, are good humored, and never forget to take 
 ample observations of the visitor while they keep time with 
 their busied bodies to the singing of their leader. 
 
 65. THE CONVENT COURT, FROM THE WALLS, 
 WITH THE CHURCH CAMPANILE.-IIere may be seen 
 not only tbe towers of the church, the belfry of the campanile, 
 and the minaret of the mosque, but also a portion of the 
 cloisters in the distance and the living-places of the monks. 
 Also see the Christian cross erected here in this desert place. 
 These picturesque bits of the interior could be had at almost 
 any place where the camera was located, and every one of them 
 shows some point of interest. 
 
 66. THE PLAIN OF ER-RAHA, FROM THE CAM- 
 PANILE. — The most beautiful view of the plain of Er Raha 
 (which we have crossed) is to be had from the Convent wall, 
 and seems to have been too irresistible for our artist to neglect. 
 How striking is the scene below and before us, and how strange 
 the contrast between the desert view and the Convent, with the 
 great peaks looming up on each side like protectors from all 
 harm ! 
 
SINAi PENINSULA AND PETRA. 
 
 41 
 
 67. THE WINDLASS, AND ARABS HOISTING VIS- 
 ITORS UP THE CONVENT WALL.— Here we observe the 
 means employed by the monks for hoisting up their visitors and 
 their stores to the top of the outside wall of the convent. The 
 machinery is secure enough, and very effective in doing what- 
 ever work is required of it. And, like everything in the neigh- 
 borhood, is of such strong construction as to remove all fear of 
 accident from defective machinery, or an explosion of the motive 
 power, for here nothing ever moves rapidly enough to cause an 
 accident. It is said to be the first passenger elevator in exist- 
 ence. 
 
 68. THE SKULL OF ST. STEPHEN.— In the garden of 
 the Convent is the charnel-house, where, carefully arranged in 
 boxes, are the bones of the defunct superiors of the Convent ; 
 and in less carefully arranged heaps, in the rear of the crypt, 
 are many thousands of the bones of the monks of lower grade. 
 Among the former, in a place of honor, close by the door, is 
 the skeleton of St. Stephen, the friar who at one time sat at 
 the shrive gate on the way up Mt. Sinai and absolved the peni- 
 tent pilgrim of his sins. Now he sits in the crypt with a wag- 
 gish-looking skull-cap on, wearing the same benign expression 
 which it was his wont to wear when in the flesh. Magnesium 
 light had to be applied to in order to secure even this much of 
 the remains of this good old man. All around upon the shelves 
 may be seen the bones of many others whose positions were less 
 favored. But their companionship is not at all pleasant, and 
 we retire to much pleasanter scenes. 
 
 69. EXIT GATE FROM THE CONVENT, TOWARDS 
 MT. SINAI. — In order to ascend Mt. Sinai it is necessary to 
 have an early breakfast and at once start on the tramp up the 
 mountain. There are other methods of reaching it, but out of 
 courtesy to the monks, who keep the roadway in fair condition, 
 we call at the monastery, where we are supplied with one of the 
 brethren to guide us. He unbars this gate at the base of the 
 mountain and leads the way. Bedouin men and boys carry our 
 apparatus and our superfluous clothing, when it becomes too 
 warm. Leaving the monastery at once the climb begins. Stones 
 
42 
 
 Wilson’s lantern journeys. 
 
 have been laid like steps most of the way, and yet the clamber 
 is not an easy one. 
 
 70. AYUN MOOSA-THE FOUNTAIN OF MOSES.— 
 
 The ascent being mainly in the sun, we are glad when we come 
 to our first stop. This is at Jethro’s Well, or the Fountain of 
 Moses. It is said to be the place where Moses was sent to 
 water Jethro’s fiocks, and where he became the lover of Zip- 
 porah, one of Jethro’s daughters. The possibility of such an 
 event is brought to our mind by seeing women on the way 
 attending fiocks of sheep. Our “brother,” the monk (who 
 attended our artist), with his slovenly, long hair and beard, is 
 here made to impersonate Moses at the well, though perhaps 
 he may libel the prophet a little. Ex. ii : 16-21. 
 
 71. CONVENT OF ST. KATHERINA, FROM THE 
 GORGE, MT. SINAI. — Looking back from the Fountain of 
 Moses we see one of the most attractive views in the neighbor- 
 hood, of the beautifully located monastery. On each side are 
 the dark walls of the ravine, up which we are going, while in 
 full view, far below, is the structure which we but a little while 
 ago left. What could be more beautiful than such a location 
 for any resort or home ? On one side the mountain seems to 
 be full of light, while on the other it is dark and solemn. 
 Psalm Ixviii : 8. 
 
 72. THE CHAPEL OF THE VIRGIN, MT. SINAI- 
 EXTERIOR. — Soon after leaving Jethro’s Well a halt is 
 made at the Chapel of the Virgin Mary. It is a small stone 
 structure-, erected to the memory of her whose name it bears, 
 by the grateful monks whose monastery below she is said to 
 have cleared of fleas. The riddance, however, was certainly 
 not efiiectual, since these lively gentlemen still abound there in 
 great quantity. 
 
 73. THE CHAPEL OF THE VIRGIN, MT. SINAI- 
 INTERIOR. — The quaint little interior of the Chapel of the 
 Virgin has a stone floor, colored walls decorated with rude 
 paintings, and three hanging lamps, one of which has an 
 ostrich-egg as a part of its decoration. The screen is also 
 
SINAI PENINSULA AND PETRA. 
 
 43 
 
 covered with red paintings and figures, two dragons over them. 
 This tiny interior is strictly guarded and protected hy a lock 
 ten by fifteen inches in size, its bolt three and one-half inches 
 shoot, and a key twelve inches long ; while the door is only 
 twenty-four by forty-two inehes. A stone cross is over the 
 dpor. It all looks rather poor and tawdry. 
 
 74. THE SHRIVE GATE AND STEPS, ASCENT OF 
 MT. SINAI. — Continuing our ascent, we cross a deep ravine 
 which leads us to a gate where pilgrims who wish to take the 
 sacrament on the mount are given a certificate as to their church 
 standing, to be delivered at the next gate beyond. On the 
 stairway we see our monk attendant and our dragoman acting 
 as pilgrims. It was at this gate that St. Stephen, whose skull 
 we have seen, sat as porter, and absolver of the sins of the 
 wicked and the penitent pilgrims. 
 
 75. SECOND GATEWAY, ASCENT OF MT. SINAI.— 
 
 Our artist has evidently passed through the second gateway 
 before making this picture, for we observe far below it and 
 through it a view towards the Convent of St. Katherina, which 
 is very artistic and very effective. Once through this gate, the 
 ancient pilgrim was happily allowed to pursue his journey to 
 the summit, his sins forgiven, and with brilliant hopes for his 
 future life before him, as well as a visit to the Holy Mountain 
 of Moses. 
 
 The peak which we are now climbing is one of the three for 
 which tradition claims the honor of being “the true Sinai.” 
 It is known as Jebel Mousa. Although it has the most places 
 of note along the way, still it does not seem to fully establish 
 its claims to further honor. We shall see 
 
 76. THE GOOD WELL, ASCENT OF MT. SINAI.- 
 
 Still climbing, we arrive in good time at quite a plain, where is 
 a fine walled well. A beautiful picture is given us here of this 
 well and its walls reflected in the water. It is a lovely spot for 
 rest, and the junction of the paths which lead to Jebels Mousa 
 and Sufsafeh, the rival claimants to Horeb’s honors. 
 
 77. THE CHAPELS OF ELIJAH AND ELISHA.— 
 
 Within a few feet of the good well is a double chapel dedicated 
 
44 Wilson’s lantern Journeys. 
 
 to the memory of Elijah and Elisha. They are here represented, 
 with a cypress tree, with a portion of the climb towards the 
 summit included. We step inside and examine the curious 
 
 78. INTERIOR OF THE CHAPELS OF ELIJAH AND 
 ELISHA. — The interior of the double chapel contains a number 
 of old books, Bibles in Greek, valuable lamps, pictures of the 
 Madonna, etc. In one corner a cave is shown in the rock as the 
 place where Elijah concealed himself after he had slain the 
 Kings of Baal. 1 Kings xix : 11. A portrait of Elijah is also 
 seen here, painted upon a board, with a gilt nimbus over his 
 head, but altogether a very bad work of art. 
 
 79. THE CHAPEL AND MOSftUE, SUMMIT OF 
 JEBEL MOUSA. — Now following on the way upward we pass 
 a depression in the rock, shaped exactly like a camel’s foot, 
 said to be “the footmark of the camel of Mohammed.” As to 
 the other three feet, one was in Cairo, one in Damascus, and 
 one in Mecca, which fact shows that camels can take very long 
 steps ! This footprint in the rock seems to have been made by 
 some ingenious monk or Arab. We are now at the summit of 
 Jebel Mousa, 7,400 feet above the sea-level, 2,360 feet above 
 the convent. This little chapel and mosque share the patronage 
 of the pilgrims, and are both revered. There is nothing inter- 
 esting inside. 
 
 80. THE CAVE OF MOSES, SUMMIT OF MT. SINAI. 
 
 —Near by is the place where, tradition says, Moses remained 
 six days and met the Lord and read the commandments. Exodus 
 xxiv. There are two other caves near, which claim the same 
 history, but “the one which made the most beautiful picture” 
 has been chosen by our artist. The views from here are not 
 grand, because hidden by higher neighboring peaks. 
 
 81. JEBEL KATHERINA, FROM THE SUMMIT OF 
 JEBEL MOUSA. — Away across from us is seen Jebel Kath- 
 erina, also a claimant for Sinaitic glory. The distant views here 
 were not found so fine as from Mt. Serbal, and yet they are 
 very astonishing and very impressive. Jebel Katherina is an 
 old peak, and well worthy the attention given it by our artist. 
 
SINAI PENINSULA AND PETRA. 
 
 45 
 
 Some revere it as the true Horeb. It is 8,536 feet high, and 
 the views from its summit are more subhme than any in the 
 Sinai Peninsula. The colors seen of land, sky, and sea are 
 enchanting, and the utter quiet of the desert renders the whole 
 most mysterious and solemn. 
 
 82. RAS STJFSAFEH, FROM THE SUMMIT OF JEBEL 
 MOUSA. — As our next ascent will be Has Sufsafeh, the near 
 neighbor of Jebel Mousa, let us first look upon it and measure 
 its height with our eye, and contemplate the climb which we 
 must take. It is a noble peak, indeed, and strikes the observer 
 as being much more entitled to the name of the ‘ ‘ Holy Mount’ ’ 
 than any other that we have seen. We shall look upon its de- 
 tails presently and see how the vote shall be cast. 
 
 83. THE JUNCTION OF JEBELS MOUSA AND SUF- 
 SAFEH. — ^We now retrace our steps as far as the good well 
 and chapels of Elijah and Elisha, and descending a little to the 
 left, over a small depression, we find a small chapel and an old 
 “willow” tree. From this latter the peak of Has Sufsafeh 
 (mount of the willow) takes its name. Up from this tree runs 
 a deep gorge, tremendously steep and rocky, which we now 
 climb. On all sides and before us are the wondrous glories of 
 the mountain gorge, clifF, and peak, and, continuing our ascent 
 in an opposite direction from our morning climb, we reach the 
 summit of the cliff. Lo ! what beauteous vi^ws are seen before 
 us. There, away down below, lies, outstretched, the plain. 
 
 84. THE PLAIN OF ER-RAHA, FROM THE GORGE 
 OF JEBEL SUFSAFEH. — Looking down from the summit of 
 the cliff, before reaching the mountain top, we behold at its feet 
 a lovely garden full of almond trees and plenteous in blossom ; 
 beyond them, the vast plain of Er-Raha. This is not the oasis 
 which surrounds the convent, for it is in an entirely opposite 
 direction, being at the foot of the mountain, on the other side. 
 Certainly the Christian observer at such a place as this can feel 
 well satisfied that it was not far off, at least, from where he 
 stands, that Moses stood, the tables in hand, as he read the 
 commandments to his companions, who, standing in line, 
 shouted them to the people below. And there, too, near the 
 
46 
 
 Wilson’s lantern journeys. 
 
 garden, and between it and the plain, is a long mount, which 
 might have been the line which kept the people from touching 
 the mountain of God, according to bis command, sometimes 
 called the “ mountain of separation.” Exodus xix and xx. 
 
 85. THE ROCK OF MOSES, SUMMIT OF JEBEL 
 SUFSAFEH. — After a long and quiet gaze over the plain, we 
 continue our climb. Turning to the left, we soon reach the 
 top of Mt. Sufsafeh. Here the Er-Raha Plain is still more widely 
 spread before us, with such a glory of mountain peaks as can- 
 not be seen in any other direction. Here, too, besides all the 
 rest, is a rock which answers, as to size, the expectations of the 
 Christian traveller, to the one upon which, Moses may have 
 stood. It overlooks the whole plain below, and as we shall 
 directly climb down to it, we can observe that any one on the 
 plain can be seen by a person standing on this rock. Here the 
 unobstructed view from the rock, which is shown in our picture, 
 for a mile straight down, is to be bad; though not so much can 
 be seen as in the view from the head of the gorge (No. 84). 
 Exodus xix and xx. 
 
 86. JEBEL MOUSA FROM JEBEL SUFSAFEH.-With 
 
 the mind full of thoughts of this holy place, we now retrace 
 our steps and descend to our camp again. On the way we have 
 brilliant views of Jebel Mousa, and have here gathered one for 
 our mutual enjoyment. This noble peak also puts in a claim to 
 being “the true Sinai,” and yet it is ignored. As to Sufsafeh, 
 we must say it seems entitled to the most honor as ‘ ‘ the true 
 Mount of God,” “the true Sinai,” “the Horeb of the Bible.” 
 Exodus xxiv, xxxiv. 
 
 87. JETHRO’S WELL, JEBEL SUFSAFEH.— Passing 
 in our descent again the willow tree and the little chapel, once 
 more looking, and speculating as to the ‘ ‘ true story ’ ’ that Moses 
 got his miraculous rod from this tree, we go on, and, after a 
 hard clamber, reach in the gorge below, a good spring. It is 
 under an immense boulder, that almost obstructs the passage 
 through the gorge. This has also been called Jethro’s well, the 
 place where Moses flirted with the daughter of the old Bedouin 
 prince. It may be true that this is also that place, for some- 
 
SINAI PENINSULA AND PETRA. 
 
 47 
 
 times one well fails and another one is used. No doubt the 
 festive lamb and the playful kid of the flocks of Jethro were 
 fed not very far from these rocky places, and doubtless Zipporah 
 and her sisters had at this very place that very celebrated quar- 
 rel with the Bedouin shepherds who refused to let them water 
 their flocks, and Moses came up to defend and assist them. 
 Exodus ii, iii. 
 
 88. A BEDOUIN SHEPHERDESS . — With a true knowl- 
 edge of Scripture history and of feeling for its events, our artist 
 has here secured for us a modern Zipporah, who has been di- 
 verted from her work long enough to sit for her picture. With 
 a modesty, however, which seems to have existed with the 
 ancient shepherdesses, she refuses to uncover her face, and 
 merely gives us permission to see the display of gorgeous jewellery 
 which adorns her head and arms and neck. 
 
 89. SHEPHERD AND SHEPHERDESS ATTENDING 
 THEIR FLOCKS, JETHRO’S WELL.— Near their rugged 
 home, and not far from Jethro’s well, we found another Zip- 
 porah or her sister, with her son, attending the goats and sheep 
 seen browsing upon the scrawny shrubs and gnarled grasses 
 among the rocks in this pass. Thus it was that Moses and his 
 friends attended the flocks, and in just such places as this. Such 
 "Was the chief occupation of the great leader during his imprison- 
 ment at this place after he fled from Egypt. He was led here 
 to secure his wife, as other men are often lead in strange places 
 to secure theirs, by wise means that they cannot understand. 
 
 90. CAVE-HOME OF THE SHEPHERDS, MT. SINAI. 
 
 — Here we observe one of the cave-homes excavated from the 
 rock, such as so many of the shepherds and fellahin of the 
 Sinai region live in. Here they dwell, in common with their 
 flocks. Indeed, it is a difficult thing, when one is about to 
 retire, to And a place to recline, for every spot is disputed by 
 the frolicsome kids and their more sober companions the sheep. 
 
 91. THE BEDOUIN SHEPHERD BOY, MOUSA (MOSES). 
 
 — This little fellow is a true Bedouin, and doubtless looks as 
 much like Moses did when he was a boy, as if he were a direct 
 
48 
 
 WILSON S LANTEEN JOUENEYS. 
 
 descendant. These little fellows are full of courteous man- 
 liness and amiability, and are industrious, and willing always to 
 help the traveller. Of course they are human, too, as to the 
 universal application of backsheesh. Their manners are beau- 
 tiful to behold, and their teeth are splendid; their eyes are 
 superb ; and it seems as though civilization would entirely spoil 
 them, if its “improving influences’’ had a chance upon them. 
 Mousa was a lovely boy. 
 
 92. A BEDOUIN PASTURE, MT. SINAI.— A real Bed- 
 ouin pasture is represented here, showing how among the rocks 
 the scanty food of the flocks grows ; yet they do not have a 
 difficult time, for there never was any place where there seemed 
 to be more of happiness and more of content and more animal 
 spirits than there is in a Bedouin flock. The traveller is to 
 them always a great novelty, and, when they hear him coming, 
 each individual goat mounts upon some rocky point and watches 
 with the utmost interest the passer-by, while the woman attend- 
 ing, according to the injunctions of the Koran, moves quickly 
 away and hides herself from sight. 
 
 93. UP THE GORGE OF SUFSAFEH, TOWARDS THE 
 ROCK OF MOSES. — With the determination of the artist and 
 the spirit of the enthusiastic traveller, our jihotographer, to 
 more certainly prove that his estimation of things is correct, has 
 taken for us a view of the gorge already ascended, from the 
 oasis at its feet. The Rock of Moses is plainly seen, and the 
 reverse view of the gorge given with all its rocky features. 
 Doubtless among these rocks of Ras Sufsafeh is the rock where 
 Moses stood, and where his companions shouted from one to the 
 other the words of the law down to the plain below, much in 
 the way in which picket guards carry the alarm to the ‘ ‘ corporal 
 of the guard’’ in time of war. 
 
 94. DATE AND ALMOND TREES. AN OASIS AT 
 THE FOOT OF THE GORGE OF SUFSAFEH. — In this 
 beautiful garden the almond and apricot trees are in full bloom. 
 Overlooking them all is one stately palm. They have been 
 captured by our artist, and we can almost imagine we smell 
 their fragrance. Such lovely spots are a great rest to the senses 
 
SINAI PENINSULA AND PETRA. 
 
 49 
 
 of the desert traveller after several days of weary wandering in 
 the wilderness. A number of them lie at the base of Mt. 
 Sinai. 
 
 94>^. ALMOND TREES IN BLOSSOM. — Another view 
 of some beautiful almond trees in full blossom will doubtless 
 give pleasure. Their blossoms are pink, and larger than those of 
 the peach. There seems to be but little fragrance coming from 
 them, but they present a charming appearance in the bleak and 
 barren desert. 
 
 95. THE PLAIN OF ER-RAHA, FROM THE FOOT OF 
 SUFSAFEH. — Turning from the lovely oasis, we creep up a 
 little to the summit of what seems to be the dividing line, or 
 ‘ ‘ hill of separation, ’ ’ which kept Israel from the Mountain of 
 Grod. Before us is spread the wide and beautiful plain of 
 Er-Raha. On the left of the view are the fine peaks of Jebel 
 Er-Raha, and on the right the equally beautiful Jebel Sanna. 
 Away in the distance before us are the peaks of Nugb Hawa, 
 through which we came on our journey hither. 
 
 96. WADY SHEIKH, FROM THE FOOT OF JEBEL 
 
 SDFSAFEH. — As we shall soon depart from this region, we 
 must have a view of the wady through which we go, towards 
 the north and east, en route for Akabah. This beautiful example 
 of an Arabian wady, winding like a river, surrounded by mag- 
 nificent mountains on each side, with its fioor covered with the 
 stones of various colors which have been sent down by the tor- 
 rent and by lightning from the mountain, is hard to equal in the 
 Sinai Peninsula. * 
 
 97. JEBEL SUFSAFEH, FROM THE PLAIN OF 
 ER-RAHA. — Crossing over to the plain in order to get a nearer 
 view of it, we see a still more beautiful view of Jebel Sufsafeh, 
 showing the wide ravine and “the Rock of Moses,” almost a 
 mile above us. How very imposing it is. The height of this 
 grand peak is over 8000 feet, and it is well worthy of being 
 regarded as Mount Horeb. 
 
 98. THE HILL OF AARON, OR HILL OF THE GOLDEN 
 CALF. — Climbing down again to the valley, we cross over a few 
 
 4 
 
60 
 
 WILSON’S LANTERN JOURNEYS. 
 
 rods towards the convent, and conae to the ‘ ‘ Hill of Aaron’ ’ or 
 the “ Mount of the Grolden Calf” This is said to be the place 
 where Aaron set up the Golden Idol for the worship of the 
 Children of Israel, while Moses and Joshua were on the moun- 
 tain top. Exodus xxxii. 
 
 99. THE SINAI VALLEY AND THE CONVENT, FROM 
 THE HILL OF AARON.— From this hill several views have 
 been made, showing, with its surroundings, the plain of Er-Raha. 
 This one with our back to the plain includes the camp of our 
 travellers ; the convent and its garden ; in the extreme distance 
 Jebel Moneijeh; Jebel el Dayer on the left, and on the right 
 Jebels Mousa and Sufsafeh. Thus we secure an understanding 
 of the whole neighborhood of Horeb. 
 
 100. JEBELS MOUSA AND SUFSAFEH, FROM THE 
 HILL OF AARON.-The two rivals for Sinaitic honora, Jebels 
 Mousa and Sufsafeh, with the gorge which Moses and Joshua 
 came down first from the summit of Horeb, the large rock, the 
 well of Jethro, and the plain at the foot, are all included here — 
 a most interesting group. Exodus xxxii. 
 
 101. THE SINAI VALLEY TOWARDS THE PLAIN 
 OF ER-RAHA, FROM AARON’S HILL.— Spread before us 
 are much the same peaks as are seen in the view from the 
 “Mount of Separation” (No. 95). Each rod the changing 
 outlines of these mountains seem to be more and more 
 beautiful than the view preceding. Could they be shown 
 with all their gorgeous changes of color, as at sunset, brilliantly 
 illuminated by the red light, they would prove still more en- 
 chanting. Most imposing views are had in all directions. 
 
 102. THE SINAI VALLEY; NORTHEAST TOWARDS 
 WADY ESH SHEYKH, FROM AARON’S HILL.-This 
 
 view completes the panorama from the Hill of Aaron. At our 
 right is the Wady Esh Sheykh, along whose rocky road we 
 travel when leaving the neighborhood of Mount Sinai. On each 
 side of the Mount wondrous peaks tower up of varied form and 
 height and color, while the bottom of the wady is made up of 
 debris from the mountain sides, of sandstone, porphyry, and 
 
SINAI PENINSULA AND PETRA. 
 
 51 
 
 diorite, as spotted and streaked as were the sheep of Jacob. 
 Not far to the left, at an angle with Wady Esh Sheykh, is the 
 plain of Er-E,aha with its abundant surrounding peaks. This is 
 the good-by scene to the Sinai traveller, for, when returning 
 homeward or onward, he either follows this wady, or goes back 
 over the plain of Er-Kaha to the oases northward. As we go up 
 this wady we often turn back to look upon J ebels Mousa and 
 Sufsafeh, which may be seen for an hour after leaving their 
 base. Numbers x : 12 ; xxxiii : 16, 17. 
 
 103. HAZEROTH. — The second day after leaving Mount 
 Sinai, upon the way to Akabah, we reach Hazeroth. Numbers 
 xi : 35. Here our travellers are halted for lunch. Our view is 
 graced in the foreground by a group of their camels with their 
 lunch-tent. Here, too, is a juniper tree, such as the Prophet 
 of old hid himself under when seized with a fit of despondency. 
 1 Kings xix : 4. Following this, in the distance, is the long 
 plain, surrounded by picturesque peaks. Nearer, too, are 
 groups of rocks cn whose bases are Sinaitic inscriptions. 
 Tradition says it was here that Aaron and Miriam taunted 
 Moses because of his Ethiopian wife; but the honor of this 
 site seems more probably to belong to our next picture. 
 
 104. THE GORGE OF AIN HUDERAH. — Now 
 
 passing over vast plains, similar to those which greeted us 
 on the west side of the peninsula, floored with flat slabs of sand- 
 stone, colored, in rows of white, yellow, pink, and brown, with 
 here and there isolated chains of mountams of the most varied 
 and even grotesque forms, giving us the impression that they 
 are the remains of a colossal city partially covered over, we 
 come to the Gorge of Ain Huderah. Here we find one of the 
 greatest surprises of our journey. Leaving the camp early in 
 the morning, the traveller sees, watching from the tops of the 
 mountains near by, large flocks of vultures, anxious to secure 
 from the camp such leavings as may be abandoned for their 
 attention. They will be sadly surprised, however, when attack- 
 ing the would-be feast, for the hungry desert traveller leaves 
 but little behind him for such heartless scavengers as these. 
 Now comes our surprise. Arriving at a desert hill-top, the 
 
52 
 
 WILSON’S LANTERN JOURNEYS. 
 
 traveller will hardly expect more than a wady, but here, sud- 
 denly, he comes upon a sandstone mount overlooking this mag- 
 nificent nugb some two hundred feet deep. Its mountain-walls 
 and distant heights are painted, like a picture, in the most gor- 
 geous style believable. It seems like a glimpse of fairy-land. 
 At the right is a descending, natural stairway winding back and 
 forth. A lovely valley is beyond, with peak after peak of red, 
 white, brown, greenish-gray, tipped with red, yellow, reddish- 
 brown, covered half-way up with white, and so on. Whole 
 mountains of pink and umber are seen. On the left foreground 
 is a dark-brown bluff" ; and beyond many others of light red, 
 waved with white, gray, or fawn color, tipped with red or light 
 brown. At the end of all is a lovely dome topped with marl- 
 green and red. The floor of the nugb is of white sand and 
 sandstone, waved here and there with lilac, red, and yellow, and 
 in the centre are two green oases abounding in palm trees and 
 fields of grain. We must descend and see some of its details. 
 
 105. THE GORGE OF AIN HUDERAH : THE WELL.— 
 
 Descending the stairway just described, we may see more closely 
 the beauty of the colors, which photography, alas ! cannot re- 
 produce. It is, in nature, like descending a stairway lined with 
 fluted and spiral columns, the depressions of which were painted 
 with red, yellow, lilac, pbk, and blue. Now, passing over the 
 pavement, we arrive at the well at the edge of the oasis. This 
 spot, with perhaps more reason than the other, is considered to 
 be the Hazeroth of Scripture. Numbers xii. Truly, such a 
 fantastic show of color as is here seen was sufficient to put the 
 light-hearted Miriam into a teasing humor, and to cause her to 
 taunt poor, meek Moses about the color of his Sinaitic spouse. 
 True, she was afflicted with leprosy for this exhibition of humor, 
 but, in answer to her brother’s appeal to the merciful Grod, she 
 was cured, and lived to cheer his life some time afterwards. At 
 this well is a splendid spring of water, sunk and walled about 
 ten feet below the surface. The well was built doubtless many 
 centuries ago, and in a most substantial manner. The cool 
 water could be seen bubbling up through the white, sandy 
 bottom. The flow is intermittent, coming up and bubbling to 
 
SINAI PENINSULA AND PETEA. 
 
 53 
 
 the surface first iu one place and then in another. Here an old 
 Arab was seen who claimed to he over one hundred years old. 
 He is sitting by the well. Near by is another well which seemed 
 to be fed by an underground aqueduct. Here also is a small 
 farm where wheat was growing, and the fields were irrigated by 
 the Egyptian method. Numbers xii : 16 ; xxiii : 18. 
 
 106. A FANTASTIC ROCK, WADY HUDERAH.— 
 
 Near the further end of the wady is a sandstone column about 
 twelve feet high, finished at the top like an Egyptian capital.. 
 From its top, and hanging two or three feet over it, is a curiously 
 shaped formation which gives it a very fantastic appearance. 
 Yet it is a floral beauty. The column is striped vertically in 
 red, yellow, fawn, and brown colors, while the florid capital is 
 a delicate gray, varied with lilac and white. It stands there 
 alone, the speechless evidence of some great effort of nature, 
 hard to understand. Lateral waves of color run through the 
 column, adding to its singular beauty and strangeness. The 
 whole region seems to be a perfect Vatican of form and color 
 far beyond description. 
 
 107. THE ENTRANCE GATE OF WADY EL AIN.— 
 
 A half-day journey from Ain Huderah brings us to the entrance 
 gate of another grand pass, known as Wady El Ain. The 
 entrance to this fine wady is between two high cliffs of red 
 granite, whose fantastic shapes are shown. The passage is 
 barely wide enough to admit of two camels abreast, and yet 
 nature has placed in the middle thereof a great rock which has 
 stood as sentinel here for ages, never disputing the passage of 
 peaceable travellers, nor asking to shrive them as they go by. 
 
 108. THE EXIT GATE OF WADY EL AIN. — 
 The Wady El Ain is a favorite camping-place of the Arab 
 traveller because of a bright oasis which graces its centre. 
 There is a line of palm and other trees here which gives it an 
 air of fertility unusual in this district. The whole secret of it 
 is a running brook which courses down over the mountain-side 
 on the left and leaves the wady at the exit gate, shown in the 
 picture, tumbling and leaping through on its way to the sea. 
 The traveller is sure to stop at the base of this great cliff, and, 
 
54 
 
 Wilson’s lantern journeys. 
 
 after looking up at the giddy height and at other lofty tops, will 
 refresh himself by bathing in the water at his feet. Much 
 amusement- will he have, too, looking at the juanks of his 
 camels, who are capering about delightedly, forgetting all their 
 dignity and accustomed churlishness, and becoming almost as 
 festive as goats over their enjoyment of the water. Both 
 traveller, beast, and attendant catch the inspiration, and seem 
 to have their youth renewed, so rare a treat is it to find such a 
 beauty-spot in a desert, and such an abundance of water. It 
 Was through these very gates that Moses and his murmuring 
 people must have passed after gathering their quota of quails 
 and manna in Hazeroth. 
 
 109. A PASS IN WADY EL AIN.-The American trav- 
 eller must confess that the succession of splendid mountain passes 
 which now occurs exceeds in beauty all the ‘ ‘notches ’ ’ of the New 
 Hampshire hills. The space between the notches seems to be 
 nothing, one following the other as quickly in succession as can 
 possibly be ; also running zigzag or at right angles with each 
 other. As to the fantastic coloring of the rocks, it is inde- 
 scribable. On the right is a cliff of bright red, except at its 
 feet it is gray. The tremendous mountain which closes the pass, 
 seemingly, is gray, red, green, striped and dotted, without 
 arrangement or system. The lower peak is ash-gray and red. 
 The stream sings its way through towards the sea ; and the trees 
 and the camels help to make up the foreground. Never forget- 
 ting his native land, the American traveller will sing the Star- 
 Spangled Banner in such places as this with all the merriment 
 and earnestness in his make-up. For two hours the traveller 
 plunges through these wondrous passes, never having an oppor- 
 tunity of seeing one hundred rods ahead at a time. The variety 
 of base, column, outline, height, and color is marvellous and 
 enchanting. The echoes are called upon to share the merriment, 
 and always a quick repartee is given. Gray pictures loom up on 
 all sides as the scene changes in the winding valleys, and the 
 traveller is enchanted with the glorious views about him. 
 
 no. THE FIRST GLIMPSE OF THE GULF OF 
 AKABAH FROM WADY WETIR.— After leaving the 
 
SINAI PENINSULA AND PETRA. 55 
 
 succession of notclies described, we enter the wider and less 
 beautiful Wady Wetir, whose scenery is also fine, but whose 
 attendant mountains are further away, and, therefore, do not 
 seem so high. Gireen caper plants grow up their sides and give 
 great relief to the eye. An hour of this, and then away in the 
 distance a great blue spot is discovered almost up in the sky. 
 It is the sea— the Grulf of Akabah. The dim shadows of the 
 Arabian hills arise like the full moon at sunset. W e are in the 
 bed of a raging torrent only recently busy carrying the moun- 
 tain waters to the sea. Now we see confused masses of stone 
 and pebble, here and there catching old palm trunks and the 
 debris of sticks and grass; then great patches of thin mud, 
 curled up by the sun into forms like pans and dishes and cylin- 
 ders. The mountains which stand next to the sea are fine in 
 outline, and are depicted in our picture. And what could be 
 more beautiful than, at the mouth of the wady, the deep blue 
 sea? As we near it, its lovely blue color becomes more intense, 
 and its golden shores more in detail. On the other side, the 
 purple hills “ towards Mecca” are very distinct, while in the far 
 distance the silvery clouds overtop all. 
 
 111. THE MOUTH OF WADY WETIR FROM THE 
 GULF OF AKABAH. — Now, standing upon the shore of the 
 gulf, we turn back for one farewell glance over the pass which 
 we have just travelled. The delicate blue of the sky is substi- 
 tuted for that of the sea ; the mountains on the left are of light 
 gray and are streaked diagonally with broad veins of red por- 
 phyry ; those on the right seem too far away to make out their 
 color, giving us only glimpses of their shape. We now turn 
 away from them for a march upon the shores of the sea again, 
 glad to have the change. A great spire in the distance looms 
 up, and between us are the stony scrapings from the sides of 
 the mountains, and the useful camel acting as a part of the 
 foreground. W^e are now east by north of Mount Sinai. 
 
 112. AN OASIS ON THE GULF OF AKABAH.— 
 
 An oasis in the' desert by the sea— what a strange occurrence is 
 this, indeed ! The splendid bay gives a graceful curve to the 
 water here, and enables us to secure a bit of life and color. We 
 
66 wiLsoisr'’s lantekjst journeys. 
 
 have a group of camels in the foreground ; a gravelly shore, the 
 blue waters of the sea, a grove of green palms, clouds in the 
 sky, with the distant mountains which we approach nearer and 
 nearer each day, in the background, to make up a suggestive 
 and beautiful combination. 
 
 113. A BIT OF COLOE: PEAKS BY THE GULF OF 
 AKABAH.— As we ride slowly along, close to the shore, we see 
 the wide mouths of the wadies come out to the beach, spreading 
 out their mouths fan-like, or in long rows, masses of their rocky 
 ridges which have been driven thither bv the violence of the 
 torrents, only so recently. All these fragments have once been 
 parts of the mountains, and have been cast off by storm and 
 sun. Photography fails to convey an idea of the gorgeous tints 
 of color which give beauty and grandeur to these groups of 
 mountains. The scene is one of glorious splendor, only to be 
 found in this region of the world. Here the traveller is indeed 
 fortunate if his tent is not blown down upon his head repeatedly, 
 with more or less destruction of its contents, for the soil is sandy 
 and not favorable to holding a tight grip upon the smooth tent- 
 pins used to hold the frail tent down to mother earth. The 
 old songs tell us of places charming, “ Where the winds their 
 revels keep but here they utterly failed to “ keep ” for once. 
 If Solomon, who was wont to sail his vessels along this coast 
 ladened with the golden stores of Ophir, ever came ashore and 
 camped out here, some of ‘ ‘ all his glory ’ ’ must have been de- 
 stroyed, if he had anything like the unhappy smash-up which 
 fell to the fate of our photographer during his sojourn of one 
 night here. 
 
 114. SHEYKH MOITSA AND HIS CAMELS.— 
 
 Fearing lest some terrible calamity should occur, our prudent 
 photographer has taken pains to secure for us a picture of that 
 best of all Bedouin chiefs, Sheykh Mousa, the head of the 
 celebrated Tawarah tribe of Arabs, who own and inhabit the 
 region between Suez and Mount Sinai. Too much cannot be 
 said in praise of this kind and gentle man. To look upon him 
 one would be unwilling to call him a bad man by any means, or 
 as belonging to a tribe of bad men. His character is excellent 
 
StNAI PENINSULA AND PETRA. 57 
 
 in every respect, and those placed in his care are absolutely safe 
 from all danger. His influence with men much wilder than his 
 own tribe is unbounded, and his skill as a desert general un- 
 equalled. In order to give him all the dignity and prominence 
 possible, our clever artist has placed him upon an eminence, a 
 high rock by the sea, where he looks far more interesting and 
 striking than many of the equestrian statues which we see in 
 our civilized cities of men of more renown. A swift dromedary, 
 which was a great pet with him, is his companion, and has done 
 his best to keep still— an operation by no means an easy one 
 with a camel very rarely quiet, especially in the neighborhood 
 of its head. 
 
 115. OUR DRAGOMAN AND OUR SHEYKH.— Now 
 
 our gentle King of the Tawarahs dismounts and gives place upon 
 his dromedary to the dragoman of our party, Mohammed Ach- 
 med Efiendi Hadaiya, another nobleman among his countrymen. 
 He is an Alexandrian (8 Silk Bazaar) ; a silk merchant ; a 
 man of wealth and education, and of exceeding ability as a 
 dragoman, having followed the profession for a quarter of a 
 century. His odd nature, his probity, his mother-wit, and his 
 courage have endeared him to some of the most renowned 
 travellers, and made him a great favorite with all the party 
 whose tour we are now illustrating. He was very proud of his 
 achievements, and was ever ready to give his body and even 
 his life for his “gentlemen.” Never flinching at any time in 
 time of trouble and annoyance, or refusing to stand by for the 
 rights of his employers. He looks remarkably quiet here sitting 
 curled up on the hump of the dromedary, but in stature and in 
 appearance he is also a nobleman, and worthy of all the praise 
 that could be bestowed upon him. 
 
 116. BY AKABAH’S ROCKY SHORE.— The shore now 
 becomes very rocky in places, but often is relieved by tremendous 
 coral formations, great reefs of coral intermixed with the wady 
 debris lining the coast. The water is very beautiful, of varied 
 color, constantly changing, like that in some of our western 
 lakes. The mountains, at places, seem fairly to step into the 
 water, or else throw down great rocks in the way and make it 
 
58 
 
 \^ilson’s lantern journeys. 
 
 rougher for the traveller. Along this rough shore he must 
 creep, or else climb over the lofty peaks. At one of these points 
 our view has been made. In the distance are two great striped 
 cliffs included which stand with their feet in the water, and 
 between us a splendid little bay whose curves of color shine in 
 the sun like mother-o’-pearl. Looking across to the other side 
 of the sea towards the Arabian shore, great fields of dark green 
 grain are seen waving to and fro, and long rows of stately palms 
 whose lofty heads swing side by side, reaching apparently to the 
 sky. It is Akabah, some miles away. 
 
 117. THE CASTLE OF KUEEIYEH, GULF OF AKA- 
 BAH. — An hour of travel upon camel-back from the last point 
 brings us to the Island of Kureiyeh where an old fortress is 
 captured by our photographer. The scene reminds one of the 
 Bay of Naples. The island is capped by the ruins of an old 
 fortress whose history we do not know. It may have been 
 erected by the Romans, or the forefathers of our dragoman, or 
 the ancestors of the Bedouin, who have been placed in the fore- 
 ground to add character and life to the picture. At night, when 
 the moon shines over all, this view is sublime. 
 
 118. THE SITE OF EZIOH GABER. — Now groping around 
 the mountains along the shore, over the stones, for a few hours 
 more, and the northern end of the Grulf of Akabah is reached. 
 On one side the shore is hugged closely by the mountains, while 
 on the other the roaring sea restlessly washes the pebbly beach. 
 Close by, some fishermen, who had seen the travellers coming 
 from afar, were seen trying to catch some of the members of 
 the finny tribe for ‘ ‘ a present of welcome. ’ ’ The mountains 
 now grow nearer and nearer, and the oasis of Akabah is seen 
 on the other side. We must cross the head of the gulf before 
 reaching the port of Akabah, however ; and in doing so we pass 
 the site of the old town of Ezion Caber, at which place Solomon 
 not only built his vessels, but landed them loaded with gold of 
 Ophir. Now vessels only reach this port once a year, viz., to 
 bring food for the pilgrims on their way to Mecca. With them, 
 alas ! come flies and vermin sufficient to make it unpleasant for 
 any future traveller for a year. Numbers xxxiii : 35 ; 1 Kings 
 ix : 26. 
 
SINAI PENINSULA AND PETRA. 
 
 59 
 
 119. THE VILLAGE OF AKABAH AND THE CASTLE. 
 
 — The village of Akabah is supposed to stand close to the site of 
 the ancient city of Elath, which latter place is only kept in 
 memory now by a few mounds, mostly covered with the graves 
 of Mussulmen. Our artist has mounted one of these mounds, 
 and, with two of the graves named in the foreground, has 
 secured us a view of the town of Akabah with the castle or 
 fort supported there by the government for the protection of 
 the pilgrims to Mecca. The houses of Akabah are built of 
 colored stone, but roofless. The mountains in the distance are 
 of lovely tints. Between us and the peaks the bay is seen. The 
 fort here is rather an important one, and garrisoned by Egyptian 
 soldiers. Its greatest importance, however, is due to the fact 
 that it protects a well of excellent water, built no one knows 
 when or by whom, but supposed to have been the work of that 
 great general, Solomon, who one day ‘ ‘ in all his glory ’ ’ resided 
 hereabouts. Deuteronomy ii : 8. 
 
 120. A BEDOUIN COUNCIL AT AKABAH. — At 
 
 this place a very different tribe of Bedouin is met, characterized 
 by their contemptible meanness and cunning and dishonesty. 
 A number have been secured in this group, with their Sheykh 
 Ipnejad seated in the centre of the ring, with the photogra- 
 pher’s tent bearing the glorious stars and stripes behind him. 
 His young son sits on the left, and the Egyptian Governor of 
 the fort on his right hand. About him are seated a number of 
 the members of his staff and their servants. Their prospective 
 meal is placed before them. They are discussing how much 
 more they can exact from the strangers who have come to them 
 to arrange for camels and attendants for the Petra Journey. 
 Here, it should be understood, the camels must be changed. 
 Our good friend Sheykh Mousa and his kindly men must be left 
 behind,’to return to their homes, while the traveller is compelled 
 by the laws of the country to take up with a new set of men 
 and their camels. Psalm cxxxvii : 7 ; Deuteronomy ii. 
 
 121. BREAKING CAMP AT AKABAH.— After having 
 submitted to the exactions of these sons of Edom, concerning 
 whom the Bible says, ^ ^ Meddle not with them ; ye shall buy 
 
60 Wilson’s lantern journeys. 
 
 meat of them for money that ye may eat, and ye shall also buy 
 water of them for money that ye may drink, ’ ’ our travellers are 
 now seen breaking camp. The scene is one necessarily of con- 
 fusion, because of the various duties which must be performed 
 in getting ready for departure. Seated against the distant wall 
 we see an unsatisfied group of wretches who have obtained their 
 share of plunder from the travellers, and who are now willing 
 to look on without lifting a helping hand. One of our travellers 
 is seen in the foreground engaged in an argument with the 
 villainous sheykh, striving to obtain some little justice at his 
 hands, but without much avail. The whole town has apparently 
 turned out to witness the departure. 
 
 122. SHEYKH MOITSA, THE BEDOITIN JUDGE.— One 
 
 more look at the noble and pleasant face of this good man before 
 allowing him to depart from us, perhaps, forever. He is posed 
 here as acting sheykh or judge. His pipe is his inseparable 
 companion, and he is dressed in some of the new garments 
 which our travellers have presented to him as a token of their 
 real sincere affection. Among them we notice he has added a 
 part of the stars and stripes, proud to bear them upon his 
 shoulders with his other garments, and not unwilling to have 
 them seen in his picture. If all the Bedouin were as kind and 
 gentle and generous as Sheykh Mousa, travelling would be an 
 easy matter. 
 
 123. SHEYKH IPNEJAD, KING OF THE TIHATWAT 
 ARABS.— Contrast the splendid face of Sheykh Mousa with 
 that of this vacillating, dissembling, dishonest, degraded vaga- 
 bond, the chief of the important tribe of Bedouins who inhabit 
 Akabah, and who hold the country against the visitors, claiming 
 tribute from them for all sorts of things, including blackmail. 
 No matter what sort of a bargain is made with such a^an as 
 this, he will break it or claim to have forgotten some items 
 which should have been included, or ask for more. There is no 
 relief from him except by separation. Instead of a pipe, he 
 has substituted a sword, but there is not a bit of courage in his 
 make-up to use it, should necessity occur. His gorgeous, gilded 
 robes have been presented to him by Mecca travellers from time 
 
SINAI PENINSULA AND PETRA. 61 
 
 to time. He is a very rich man. A discussion arose between 
 him and Sheykh Mousa which was exceedingly dramatic. Fre- 
 quently, in the discussion, the voices of both parties would be 
 raised to a great degree, but remembering suddenly that they 
 were both Mussulmen, and must not quarrel before an American, 
 mutual hand-grasps were resorted to in order to calm down the 
 rising of the Bedouin blood. No swords were drawn, and no 
 smoke, except the cloudy wreaths of tobacco-smoke which came 
 from their pipes. Somewhere in the Bible we are told that the 
 land of Edom would become one of extreme desolation and not 
 even a beast be left, but for some reason or other one beast at 
 least has arisen since that prophecy was fulfilled. 
 
 124. WADY ARABAH FROM ELATH.— Leading from 
 the head of the Gulf of Akabah to Palestine is the wildest and 
 most extensive wady of all in Arabia, known as W ady Arabah. 
 It was once and is now the principal highway from Akabah to 
 the Dead Sea, and was the thoroughfare used by Solomon in his 
 day. It was the scene also of Israel’s flight from the land of 
 Edom after being driven back by the warriors of the Edomites, 
 and is the approach for the present traveller who goes from 
 Akabah to Southern Palestine. It is bounded on either side by 
 a long chain of mountains, some of which we shall see nearer as 
 we go northward to Petra. In the foreground is a portion of a 
 “stone-circle,” one of the curious structures so plentiful in this 
 neighborhood. Near by is one of the mounds which mark the 
 site of ancient Elath. The desolate wady has not a thing of 
 beauty or strangeness to relieve its monotony for almost its whole 
 length. 
 
 125. WALL OF DEFENCE, WADY EL ITHIM.— 
 
 The camels being loaded, and their legs released from the fasten- 
 ings used to keep them from straying away, the caravan takes 
 up its march for Petra by the way of the Mount Seir range, or 
 what is known as “the short way.” The motley crowd yells; 
 the sheykh becomes excited, while his gorgeous robes fly about ; 
 the rich and poor, sick and blind, halt and lame, young and old, 
 slaves and free, add to the confusion of the separation. The 
 contract is signed; and the camels, laden with hen-coops and 
 
62 
 
 WILSON’S LANTERN JOURNEYS. 
 
 water-casks and other paraphernalia, arise in the air and en- 
 courage us to go on. The sand flies in our eyes ; the palms 
 wave their adieus ; the wind howls upon us from the sea ; and 
 the flies come and bite us and hang fast to our clothing as we go 
 along. We pass the shouting crowd of disconsolate dogs and 
 beggars which wrestle for the backsheesh which we throw to 
 them ; the land is passed over ; the sea moans and the palms 
 wave their assent, while the echoes answer to all as we move 
 along. We are now in the hands of a lazy tribe. Their gest- 
 ures are graceful, their smiles are pleasant, but they are as use- 
 less a set of men as ever walked this earth. Wady Arab ah is 
 traversed for about two hours, and then we turn suddenly east- 
 ward and enter W ady El Ithim. After climbing its rocky mouth 
 for about two hours, we come to a great wall, which has been 
 constructed evidently as a barricade, reaching completely across 
 the wady. It has been broken into, however, of late years, and 
 is shown by the view in its present condition. 
 
 126. THE PASS THEOTJGH WADY EL ITHIM.— 
 
 A similar pass is found further on in the wady, which has also 
 been broken through in order to give access to the traveller. 
 Such a wall as this would not present much of an obstruction to 
 our modern means of upsetting things in our day, but in a fight 
 between Bedouin it would be of immense service, for it could be 
 easily commanded and easily protected. 
 
 127. A MIDDAY REST IN THE DESERT.— The noon- 
 day rest is always looked forward to by the desert traveller with 
 a great deal of desire. Exposed to the burning rays of the sun, 
 with no trees or other shade to relieve, the time when a stop 
 may be made, a little lunch-tent erected, and an opportunity to 
 creep under the protection of its shade given, is looked forward 
 to with anxiety very often. Here, after their lunch and midday 
 rest, our photographer and companions are seen posed leisurely 
 upon the gravelly bottom of the wady, with their camels, their 
 paraphernalia, and their lunch-tent, making a very characteristic 
 picture. In the far distance we see the mountains which line 
 the wady, here some three miles wide, as the greatest peaks 
 are always in sight. All about are sand-hills of white and red. 
 
SINAI PENINSULA AND PETRA. 
 
 63 
 
 Particularly in the direction of Petra, the grand peaks seem to 
 form a doorway to some glorious amphitheatre, and such indeed 
 is the case, as we shall see. 
 
 128. THE RUINS AND ROCK OF EL GUERRAH.— 
 
 Many times in the middle of the wady, near where the path of 
 the traveller lies, are very curious and isolated masses of sand- 
 stone, almost reaching to the dignity of mountains. One of 
 these is shown in the picture. They are usually of variegated 
 color, and sometimes are, as in this instance, covered by ruins 
 of ancient fortresses, when and by whom constructed no one 
 seems able to tell. 
 
 129. “THE SPHINX” OF EL GUERRAH. — On the 
 
 west side of this rock of El Guerrah is a remarkable formation 
 resembling the great sphinx near the pyramids in Egypt. It 
 has a sharply cut profile, and, as is plainly seen in the picture, 
 is indeed very much in general shape and style like that of the 
 snubbed and broken sphinx of Egypt. W ere it more isolated 
 from its mother-rock, the resemblance would be still more strik- 
 ing. The rock from which it is formed is prettily striped in 
 various colors. Perhaps the desert of Gizeh looked like this 
 before the erection of the pyramids and the creation of its 
 sphinx. 
 
 130. CAMELS DRINKING AND FIGHTING FOR 
 WATER, AT THE WELL OF HUMEIYUMEH.— Further 
 on in the wady another curious rock is found, colored red, 
 yellow, gray, and lilac. On its further side is the entrance to a 
 subterranean well. Rude steps lead down to an excavated room 
 ten feet square, in one corner of which is a pool five feet in 
 diameter and two feet in depth, full of water. Over it is a hole 
 in the rock through which the light is admitted. The Bedouin 
 cameleers carry skins full of water up to the entrance and put it 
 into a rocky basin, whence the camels drink. It is a pretty 
 sight, indeed, to see them take the water and to see their playful 
 scrambling with each other for their turn. Here ai*e four of 
 them, with their heads close together, drinking at one time. 
 After they are done they playfully wipe their noses against each 
 other’s necks, and then make way for their companions. 
 
64 Wilson’s lantern journeys. 
 
 131. A GROUP OF MOORISH PILGRIMS EN ROUTE 
 FROM MECCA, AT THE WELL OF HUMEIYUMEH.— 
 
 After watering the beasts and examining the curiosities of nature 
 at this place, our travellers were overtaken by a quartette of 
 pilgrims from Morocco, who had made their pilgrimage to 
 Mecca on foot, living upon the hospitality of the country, and 
 who are now on their way to Jerusalem. There they are seated 
 close to the water-washed cavern already described. The inner 
 walls of this cavern, like those of the rock-formation which 
 stands in the picture, are decorated by singular streaks of color, 
 in form like stalactites, and of varied color, purple and yellow 
 predominating. The spot was far more picturesque than pho- 
 tography is able to prove. The poor pilgrims had but little of 
 this world’s goods to bless them. 
 
 132. ROCK-HOUSE AND PICTURED ROCKS AT 
 HUMEIYUMEH. — These isolated rocks are utilized by the 
 Bedouin as homes. Being of sandstone, they are easily hol- 
 lowed out, for nature has partly assi^d. They, indeed, make 
 very comfortable houses, inasmuch as very little shelter is needed 
 in this warm and dry country. The land in the neighborhood 
 of this rocky formation is in some places cultivated, and these 
 rock-homes are inhabited by the Fellahin, or farmers, who culti- 
 vate the scanty soil. The interiors vary in size from twelve to 
 fifteen feet square, and are sometimes plastered, and the doors 
 partly blockaded by stone. 
 
 133. A ROCK-HOUSE AND PICTURED ROCKS AT 
 HUMEIYUMEH. - Another group of these pictured and 
 striped rocks is this. In front of it is a patch of the green 
 grass of the desert ; on one side, and away beyond, a splendid 
 amphitheatre whose beauties attracted the traveller the whole 
 day long. They seem like a bit of heaven. The rocks here are 
 decorated with brown, yellow, blue, grayish -brown, and purple, 
 in diagonal strata or streaks. In the foreground are coral-like 
 formations which seem like iron melted and bubbled by heat, 
 then suddenly cooled ; purple and black and red in color. 
 
 134. A MINIATURE MOUNTAIN OF COLOR, WADY 
 HUMEIYUMEH. — How curio'US these formations are is more 
 
SINAI PENINSULA AND PETKA. 65 
 
 plainly seen by a closer view of one of them. It seems to' be 
 made up of a concrete mass of material, part of which must 
 have been carved by nature and part by the hand of man. 
 Some of it is of sandstone, some of quartz and granite and 
 other material. It certainly must have been mixed by some 
 great convulsion of nature at a time far beyond the memory of 
 anybody now living or before the records of history began. It 
 was striped, spotted, waved, and streaked yellow, brown, lilac, 
 and red, and made up of flint, quartz, and sandstone boulders, 
 bits of fragments of pebbles of granite, smoothed, rubbed, 
 chiselled, and engraved ; in intaglio, bas-relief, etched, stippled, 
 stumped, bristled, chopped, shoved, worn, wasted, washed, 
 scratched, broken, and moulded into innumerable splendid 
 shapes. 
 
 135. THE ROCK AND WELL OF MOSES, AIN EL 
 DALAGEH.— Here our traveller flnds one of those rare bits of 
 pleasure in the desert, a tumbling cascade, winding prettily 
 through the grass like a veritable New Hampshire mountain- 
 stream. Of course, our travellers halt here and refresh them- 
 selves, as well as their camels, with cold water. This well, 
 where one of our Bedouin attendants is seen drinking, is called 
 by the Mohammedans the “ Well of Moses,” and is believed 
 by them to be the place where, in obedience to the command of 
 God, Moses struck the rock, in order to bring forth water for 
 the murmuring children of Israel. Now we push on rapidly to 
 Petra. 
 
 136. A PANORAMA OF PETRA FROM THE EAST- 
 SUNRISE.— “ Who will bring me into the strong city? Who 
 wdl kad me into Edom? Through God we shall do valiantly, 
 for He it is that shall strike down our enemies. ’ ’ Psalm lx. 
 The traveller towards Petra will And it necessary to have some 
 of David s confldence should he make up his mind to try and 
 see Petra in the short way,” for each mile seems to bring new 
 difiiculties. He is well repaid, however, for all his trouble 
 should he be so fortunate as to reach the spur of the mountain 
 which leads him around to the eastern entrance of Petra. At 
 sunrise, when this panoramic view of the region about Petri^ 
 
 5 
 
66 
 
 WILSON’S LANTEKN JOURNEYS. 
 
 was taken, where an Arab sheykh, the protector of our artist, is 
 seated, we overlook one of the vast gorges so numerous in this 
 country, in which the city of Petra is located, still nearly a day’s 
 travel away. Across this gorge, beyond its further mouth or 
 entrance, observe the wide wilderness of W ady Arabah. Beyond 
 that, again. Southern Palestine, in the neighborhood of Beer- 
 sheba and Hebron, is seen. Yes, indeed. Wady Mousa — the 
 V alley of Petra — the climax of the Mount Seir region, is before 
 us. The rising sun touches only the highest peaks. They are 
 located at the southern end of the chain of “rocks” which 
 belongs to the Petra combination. On the left arises a great 
 light-colored mount, tapering towards the top, as though cov- 
 ered with the ruins of some ancient city and surmounted by a 
 mosque of a hundred domes. To the right is the broad and 
 deep ravine, the “red rocks” splendidly outlined on each side, 
 with all but their very tips in the shade, the sun not yet having 
 reached them. Even the sea beyond and the vineyards of Graza 
 may be seen for miles of their length. In all directions splendid 
 pictures rise before us, like panoramas of so many cities. 
 
 137. A PANORAMA OF PETRA FROM THE SOUTH- 
 EAST — EARLY MORNING. — From the same spur, but 
 further northward and eastward, another panoramic view is 
 given. The deep ravine or gorge just described is now on our 
 left, and the view before us exhibits several smaller gorges, all 
 now less dark and dreary because of the higher sun. Their 
 great gates now seem to be open, and, instead of looking across 
 their ends, we may look further into them and over them. The 
 great rocks in the foreground are of the hardest flint, and the 
 pathway is covered with their debris. On our extreme riglit is 
 a light-colored, noble peak, which stands as a near neighbor to 
 Mount Hor. In the valley, at our feet, is the most terrible 
 desolation, such as was predicted by prophecy. Here the visitor 
 hears only the sounds of birds, for there is no sign of anything 
 else but the members of his caravan. Evidences of the absolute 
 fulfilment of prophecy are here : “Edom shall be a desolation ; 
 every one that goeth by it shall be astonished.” Jeremiah 
 
SINAI PENINSULA AND PETRA. 
 
 67 
 
 xlix : 17. “And they shall know my vengeance, saith the 
 Lord. ’ ’ Ezekiel xxv : 14. 
 
 All around and about are uncultured fields and masses of 
 tumbled rocks, suggesting cities destroyed. All a “ desolation ” 
 in the truest sense. 
 
 138. PANORAMA OF PETRA AND JEBEL HAROUN, 
 MOUNT HOR. — Proceeding a short distance northward and 
 eastward. Mount Hor, now fully lighted by the sun, lifts up its 
 head in the distance more and more conspicuously, and the proper 
 entrance into Petra, the gorge of the Sik, is in front. Between 
 us and the Holy Mountain, the red and yellow chains of peaks 
 are presented in gorgeous splendor. Rich clusters of them, of 
 varied colors and shapes, are observable as far as the eye can 
 reach. The sun has also lifted up from the shadows the ruins 
 of the old city, which are included in the view, with some green 
 spots which look like Bedouin farms. The sunshine also makes 
 plain the numberless rock-cities and now reveals their mysteries. 
 The green sward, the florid rocks, the encrusted domes of light 
 and shade and flame, the awful stillness of “desolation” pre- 
 dicted by Scripture, and the sublimity of all nature — all impress 
 one in the greatest degree. As we proceed, the sun develops 
 the rich coloring more and more and drives the shadows to one 
 side. Again the ruler of the day lifts up a double line of peaks 
 from Arabah’s plain, like eruptions on the skin, and the Dead 
 Sea puts in an appearance, shining like a mirror of silver in the 
 far distance. 
 
 139. SUNRISE ON ANCIENT EDOM. AN ANTIQUE 
 VILLAGE.— Each successive view shows more and more the 
 effect of the sunlight upon this wondrous region. What two 
 hours ago was a shadowed valley of desolation and wilderness, 
 of sleeping mounds and mountains, now becomes beautiful in 
 form and color, revealed by the sunlight. Away down in the 
 valley, amid the green fields which now become more and more 
 plentiful, is to be seen a ruined village, of an age which history 
 cannot guess at. Deserted and unthought of, here it has ex- 
 isted from century to century. Neither man nor the elements 
 
68 Wilson’s lantern journeys. 
 
 care to meddle with it or to destroy it. No one ever visits it, 
 probably- 
 
 140. THE POOL AND RUINS OF AIN EL RAGA.— 
 
 Now, turning to the left, we come closer to the true entrance of 
 the city of Petra, and pass on our way the old-timed city of 
 Ain El Raga. Here the only life remaining is its tumbling 
 waterfall, which empties itself into a huge tank or basin, and 
 parts of whose wall, sides, and contents are here seen. A 
 pretty, lonely, desolate spot. 
 
 141. THE GORGE OF WADY SIX.— This view reveals to 
 us more of the mysteries of the ravine which is described and 
 seen in No. ISfl. It is now well lighted through its whole 
 length, even as far over as Wady Arabah. Its walls are as red 
 as blood, and a fine pyramidal-shaped mountain stands at its 
 western gates like a grim sentinel, causing one to feel glad that 
 our approach was not made from that direction. Our way into 
 Petra is through the rocky gorge which lies before us, and 
 slowly we begin to climb down to it. The view which the 
 beholder has spread before him from this point impresses him 
 with the fact that God surely gave Esau a grand country, and 
 showed His sympathy as much as He could for the poor, doomed 
 son of Isaac ; but, alas ! it was of no avail. 
 
 142. A EARRICADE OF CAMELS IN BATTLE ARRAY 
 AT AIN GAZALAH, NEAR PETRA. — Now, as we descend, 
 3Iount Hor sinks behind an elevation, over which we must 
 cross before we can reach the mouth of the gorge of the Sik. 
 1 he whole surface appears now to be bubbling with vast mounds 
 of colored matter which seem to have arisen but the night 
 before. Great domes and rows of cones rise up in every direc- 
 tion, shaped like pottery kilns. Each turn presents the grand 
 panorama in a new light, and each time so widely different from 
 anything that the eye can behold in any other portion of the 
 world. Truly, here are enough well-quarried walls and columns 
 and capitals, and excavations, and halls, to build all the temples 
 on the Nile; with colors as brilliant, and hieroglyphics as ex- 
 tensive, whose mysteries cannot be read, unless they all mean 
 one thing — “ desolation.” Over all, Mount Hor stands, watch- 
 
SINAI PENINSULA AND PETRA, 69 
 
 man or warder-like, telling ever of Aaron’s solemn death and 
 burial. Our travellers, however, seem ever to be on the alert 
 for something more practical than the sentimental or historical. 
 The avenues of Edom are before them, and apparently some- 
 thing is expected of a more dangerous character. They have no 
 time to stop and wonder what it all must have been like when 
 David passed through, a eonquerer, and Israel felt her power 
 there. They have no moment to spare to think of the once 
 rich bazaars, gaudy shops, tremendous factories, or myriads of 
 mosques which were once there, and long since deserted and 
 destroyed. On one of the terraces which lead down to a hill, 
 which they must cro.ss, is the fountain of Ain Gazalah. A 
 modern warrior could stand at .this fountain and “shell ” Petra 
 with little difficulty. But should the enemy come, as they seem 
 to be expected now, the poor camels, in the absence of any other 
 wall for a barricade, are arranged side by side, facing the scene 
 of the great dramas of Edom of old, while our artist and his 
 companions place themselves behind them, with their faces well 
 set, awaiting the enemy. All the weapons and helpless mus- 
 ketry and dilapidated swords in possession of the party are 
 pointed towards Petra, waiting for the attack of the Eellahin. 
 The group appears to be quite as select as it is dangerous and 
 earnest, and would doubtless have its effect in scaring off any 
 marauders who might be supposed to attack it. But none came. 
 Giunshots were heard in the valley below, but they were from a 
 wedding-feast. 
 
 143. THE THREE TOMBS, NECROPOLIS OF PETRA. 
 
 —Having climbed to the top of the mount just spoken of and 
 descended its other side, we find ourselves in the valley of the 
 Sik. Immediately on entering it we begin to see numerous 
 caves on each side, and then come suddenly upon three singular 
 tombs on the right, which are the first objects which we stop to 
 examine. They recall to our minds the well-known tomb of 
 Absalom in the valley of Jehoshaphat, near Jerusalem. These 
 great mysterious masses of rock are about sixteen feet square, 
 and, although cut from the adjacent cliffs, are separated from 
 them by a number of feet of space. They decrease in diameter 
 
70 
 
 Wilson’s lantern journeys. 
 
 towards their tops, in Egyptian style, hut their roofs are flat. 
 In one of them is a small sepulchre or chamber, with a low 
 door. A good idea of the formation and of the kiln-like shape 
 of the rocks is seen in the cliffs behind the tombs. They form 
 a part of the Necropolis of Petra. 
 
 144. THE TOMB OF THE FOUR PYRAMIDS, NE- 
 CROPOLIS OF PETRA. — On the opposite side of the chasm, 
 but a little distance further down, is a very remarkable monu- 
 ment hewn out of the solid rock. Its lower front is composed 
 of a portico of six Ionic columns, with a pediment and numer- 
 ous ornaments of a very peculiar nature. Over this is a second 
 facade of an entirely different character. It is made up of a 
 simple moulding ; and above it, in a recess, four slender semi- 
 pyramids are also hewn out of the rock. Although not striking 
 in beauty, it is a remarkable work, and has apparently been 
 quarried by two different peoples, or else by travellers from two 
 different lands, who have imbibed the ideas of the places which 
 they have visited, and tried to follow suit. Now the valley con- 
 tracts and the cliffs become higher and higher. 
 
 145. A PETRA BEDOUIN GUARD AT THE ENTRANCE 
 OF THE SIK.— Before proceeding into the city, as good and 
 peaceful travellers, we should arrange terms with the Bedouin 
 and Fellahin who inhabit the region, and now make our first 
 acquaintance with them. Having travelled perhaps over a 
 month on camels, it seems very singular to see these men 
 mounted on Arabian chargers. The reason of this is because 
 there is plenty of water in this wonderful valley for the horse to 
 drink ; and as he is more fleet and more easily kept than the 
 camel, he is preferred. It is a mystery to know where shoes 
 are obtained for the horses, but, since there is so mueh mystery 
 here, this minor one we will not try to solve. These wild people 
 are drawn up in cavalry style by our artist, and have been cap- 
 tured by his camera without their knowledge. A number of 
 them bear long spears or lances, which are the principal weapons 
 they carry when on the road. 
 
 146. THE BUTTRESSED ARCH, ENTRANCE TO THE 
 CHASM OF THE SIK.— Now following down a little glen, 
 
SINAI PENINSULA AND PETEA. 71 
 
 through the street of tombs whose sculptured hicades and dark 
 doorways line the cliffs on each side, we pass a projecting rock 
 and suddenly find ourselves at the entrance of a chasm, seem- 
 ingly formed by the rending of the mountain from summit to 
 base. Its width is about twelve feet, increasing in some places 
 to twenty or thirty feet. We enter it by a buttressed arch, 
 lifted high up on the ragged cliffs and spanning the intervening 
 gulf, seemingly alike inaccessible and useless. Near it in our 
 foreground is a juniper tree. Imagination will make this lofty 
 arch the work of some spirit of the mountains, constructed as a 
 portal to her walled retreat. It was, however, perhaps erected 
 for the support of an aqueduct, intended doubtless to conduct 
 water to the more elevated palaces in the city, since conducting 
 pipes were found in some of these high places, and, indeed, 
 along the sides of the chasm which we now enter. 
 
 147. THE BUTTRESSED ARCH FROM INSIDE.— 
 
 Passing under this wonderful structure, we turn about and look 
 out merely to get a view in both directions, and, perhaps, to 
 gather courage before entering upon the work of passing the 
 wonderful chasm. Perhaps a little afraid to proceed with the 
 journey lest opposition be met from the Pellahin or Bedouin, 
 who are now momentarily expected, for we have so far entered 
 their city without their blustering companionship. 
 
 148. A VIEW IN THE GORGE OF THE SIK, AT PETRA. 
 
 — ^Passing on quietly now, we have fairly entered the wondeiful 
 gorge of the Sik, whose walls twist and turn and wind to such 
 a degree that sometimes the rocks fairly touch each other over 
 our heads and completely shut out the light. At other places 
 they widen or are joined by smaller clifis at right angles.^ The 
 colorings of the rocks add to the thrilling effect. In the distance 
 is one of the gray and red kiln-shaped peaks so plentiful here 
 a real beauty. 
 
 The sunlight has entered here with splendid effect, contrasted 
 with the dark portions. In our foreground are several splendid 
 oleander bushes, which abound in this valley through its entire 
 length. Then, creeping up the sides of the rocky cliffs, the 
 caper plant and the juniper are seen. All along the sides of 
 
72 Wilson’s lantern journeys. 
 
 the gorge are aqueducts and depressions cut for statuary, which 
 latter were objects of worship. On every side are figures and 
 natural caves and colors, without number. Sometimes we are 
 obliged to travel in the stream which courses rapidly through 
 the gorge, or, again, we walk on the pebbly bottom. 
 
 149. ON THE RIVER SIX, GORGE OF THE SIK— 
 
 Here another of the wider openings of the Sik gives us light 
 sufiicient to secure a picture whose characteristics are much the 
 same as the last, but which possesses a little more life, given to 
 it by the kind-hearted young sheykh, Salim, Jr., who consented 
 to grace the foreground. The gorgeous splendor of his garments 
 is too much for photography to get, but they can be described. 
 His coat was red, his cap blue, his agal black, while upon his 
 back was the old patriarchal sheepskin, with a gun and a sword 
 swung across his shoulders, and his lance held upright in his 
 hand. His gown was striped yellow and blue and red, of tints 
 in full harmony with the neighboring rocks ; and no young prince 
 or king was prouder than he. 
 
 150. A FIRST GLIMPSE OF THE KUZNEH, THROUGH 
 THE GORGE OF THE SIK. — Now, riding or walking along, 
 in a few moments we reach the further or western end of the 
 chasm, and, suddenly, are startled by the most striking view in 
 all Petra (and it might be said in the world), a part of the 
 delicate pink-colored facade of the Kuzneh, seen through the 
 exit of the chasm. It is a sublime view. The contrast between 
 the deep red rock and the lovely rose color of the splendid 
 structure is heyond comparison. With what mighty judgment 
 and taste and skill was this site selected ! Where else in all 
 the world is there such a remarkable view ? 
 
 151. THE KUZNEH — THE FACADE. — And now, emerg- 
 ing from the gorge, we stand face to face with this magnificent 
 mystery in architecture, this wonder of the world. To account 
 for such a building in such a place is impossible. It is an 
 incomparable ornament to architecture, partly elegant, partly 
 strange in conception, making one think that it must be the 
 work of several centuries, by different artists, as is the Duomo 
 at Florence. It is in a wondrous state of preservation, but the 
 
SINAI PENINSULA AND PETRA. 
 
 73 
 
 figures which once graced it, and whose nature can only be 
 guessed at, are too defaced for recognition. Its situation, its 
 coloring, its size, its age, all make up enough to bewilder and 
 entangle the toughest brain. Its dark interior is forty feet 
 square, with a small niche or depression at the rear and one at 
 each side. Stepping up into the portico, we observe beneath a 
 room on each side. The one on the right leads to a chamber 
 twenty-three by thirty-eight feet, with a depression back, with 
 stalls. Over the door is a circular window partly walled up. 
 The door is seven feet wide. A similar room, rather at an angle 
 with the front, is on the other or left side, of the same size. 
 Two Roman eagles, crouching, are over each door. To return 
 to the facade again, we find it is ninety-six feet wide, and it has 
 one of the columns broken down and gone. The columns are 
 five feet in diameter, and seem to be solid and not in sections. 
 The color is almost wholly of a delicate rose-pink, only small 
 portions or veins being of a warm gray and reddish tint, and 
 not broken up by other tints and waves of color, as the buildings 
 further on in the city are. This is a very fortunate thing, and 
 happy were its projectors to find such a rock in such a place for 
 their grand structure. It looks now as clean and fresh as though 
 just constructed, and yet it has no history. No one can tell why 
 or when it was erected. It is a “treasure,” indeed. One of 
 the figures on the wings seems to be a man standing with some- 
 thing on his shoulder, the other of a woman, dancing may be. 
 One, perhaps, is Moses the Commander, and the other the 
 merry Miriam. Whether built for Grod or for a resting-place 
 for the dead, no one can tell. No man can do more than guess 
 at it. Some travellers suppose it to be a temple, while others 
 claim that it was for the Petra Conservatory of Music. Its 
 parts are all sharply, smoothly chiselled, and its floral decora- 
 tions are rich and fine. 
 
 152. A GROUP OF BEDOUIN SHEYKHS WITH 
 HORSES AND LANCES. — Our travellers, while making a 
 preliminary view of the Kuzneh on the day of their arrival, 
 hearing the clatter of hoofs in the gorge, and not having yet 
 seen any of the neighboring Bedouin, began to beat a retreat 
 
74 Wilson’s lantern journeys. 
 
 lest the enemy be upon them. They were too slow. In a 
 second, five or six horsemen with long spears emerged from the 
 gorge, dismounted at once, struck their lances into the ground, 
 and offered a welcome. The party were composed of the son of 
 the Petra Sheykh Salim, and his staff. They had discovered our 
 travellers afar off, and made haste to reach the city first to greet 
 them, but they were too late. Our artist, however, never for- 
 getting himself under any circumstances, accomplished a feat 
 which photography has never been known to do before, viz. , 
 secured the favor of a group from these wild gentlemen, and it is 
 before us, with all its dramatic effect. And, indeed, what 
 theatrical scene could be more dramatic than this one ? These 
 wild men, during the very moments of surprise, were taken by 
 parties equally surprised. Blessed be photography which can 
 secure such living subjects as this for our study. 
 
 153. A PRELIMINARY GLIMPSE OF PETRA.— 
 
 Passing the Kuzneh, and turning sharply to the right, leaving 
 the glorious structure on the left, the traveller proceeds up the 
 principal street of the rock-city, through' a gorge and following 
 the little stream. On the left we see three great rock -temples 
 which appear like steps, and away off in the distance a part of 
 the theatre, with the hills back of it full of caves and rock- 
 temples. Let us enter now fully into the mysteries of this 
 glorious city, and this is the gate thereto. 
 
 154. A GROUP OF ROCK-TEMPLES NEAR THE THE- 
 ATRE, AT PETRA , — In a few moments we are upon the steps 
 of the great theatre, but, before examining into its wonderful 
 construction, we are attracted by a lofty group opposite. This 
 is a typical view of Petra. A grand trio of temples and tombs 
 is here, facing the theatre, which must have been seen by all 
 the Petrans while attending upon the play, reminding them of 
 the fact that, although there is much in life to amuse and enter- 
 tain, still death must come. 
 
 155. THE THEATRE OF PETRA. — This grand construc- 
 tion is hewn entirely from the mother-rock, no one portion of it 
 having been quarried and separated therefrom. It is, as is 
 seen, nearly three-quarters of a circle, and comprises thirty-three 
 
SINAI PENINSULA AND PETRA. 
 
 75 
 
 tiers of seats, now much, worn and out of shape. The only 
 dramas now enacted there are the tournaments of the Bedouin, 
 who, if paid sufficiently, will give an exhibition of their skill in 
 horsemanship and the exercise of the lance, reminding one of 
 the gladiatorial combats of ancient Borne. The scene was evi- 
 dently erected across the circle, for there are still remains m the 
 bases of columns showing themselves through the soil. Oppo- 
 site are many tombs, which enabled the mortal theatre-goer to 
 keep before him during the play that immortality must follow. 
 The views around about are superb in every direction. 
 
 156. THE VIEW MAGNIFICENT. PETRA FROM 
 THE THEATRE.— Some idea of the inwardness of Petra may 
 be obtained here. The view is rather an extensive one. In 
 the foreground, upon the left, a portion of the theatre itself, 
 in the valley, towards the right, is the bed of the stream ; while 
 beyond will be seen the cliffs, full of entrances to caves and 
 tombs. Far off in the middle distance are the columns and 
 arches of the glorious temple, with which we shall become better 
 acquainted presently. While still further beyond, in front and 
 to the left, are the distant mountains of various color. Leading 
 to the left, and southward towards the Wady Arabah, is the 
 once grand street of Petra. This may well be called the mag- 
 nificent view of Petra, so far as a distant view can be. Here it 
 is easy to see how the people could enjoy themselves, and at the 
 same time keep guard of their city; or, if the play grew dull, 
 add zest to it by gazing upon the countless tombs opposite. 
 And this is the city doomed by divine judgment, though able 
 for so long to hold a strength which could laugh and scorn at 
 any human effort made to destroy it. Nature built its impreg- 
 nable walls, before which insignificant man has had to shrink, 
 baffled, many a time. It lies in the midst of the desert, and 
 yet its climate is unsurpassed. Splendid temples and other 
 structures still abound here, yet all unused. The hundreds of 
 thousands of people who once populated it are all gone, and 
 their history is unknown. The blustering tribes who live near 
 by and “own ” Petra believe that it grew up, and exists only by 
 enchantment. 
 
76 
 
 Wilson’s lanteen joukneys. 
 
 157. PETRA, EAST FROM THE TRAVELLERS’ 
 CAMP.— The shrewd traveller will make it his first business 
 on entering this mighty city to plant well his tent-pins in some 
 hidden place, lest his apparatus be carried off" bodily by the 
 ever eager Fellahin, who, soon after his entrance, will surround 
 him like bees and fleas. Thus prudent were our travellers, who 
 made ready for their sojourn in the rock-city. The view before 
 us IS looking back beyond the site of the theatre, down the 
 stream towards the east, through the gorge which was traversed 
 on entering. A good idea is given here of the rocks which 
 abound in the neighborhood. Here are fine groups of buildings, 
 caves, stairs, and clifis, seemingly numberless. 
 
 158. PETRA, WEST FROM THE TRAVELLERS’ 
 CAMP. Though less extensive than our view 156, this one 
 includes a portion of the other, but is taken from a standpoint 
 much nearer, namely, to the left of the travellers’ camp. Here 
 will be seen what is, perhaps, the finest group of buildings in 
 the city of Petra. The view includes the “temple of the 
 arched terrace,’’ the “temple of the urn,’’ and the “temple 
 of three rows of columns, ’ ’ besides numberless excavations, 
 which have been used either as homes or tombs, no one can do 
 more than guess which. We shall see them all in detail. 
 
 159. SHEYKH SALIM, CHIEF OF THE PETRA BED- 
 OTJIlir, AND HIS STAFF.— Opposite the travellers’ camp is 
 a series of caves which were used, during the sojourn of our 
 artist, by the Bedouin and the Fellahin as their dwelling-places. 
 At night, when these excavations were lighted by the fires of 
 the inmates, they seemed like a real exhibition of the infernal 
 regions, especially when accompanied by the intolerable and 
 astounding howling, yelling, and bluster of these wild men. 
 The principal ofiice of Hades appeared to be directly opposite 
 the American camp. One day, after having submitted to 
 sundry exactions, our artist observed the many thirsty Bedouin 
 retire to this cave, and, after quarreling among themselves for 
 a time and dividing the spoils, emerge from it. With an eye 
 ever ready to catch the dramatic, his camera was instantly 
 planted before the slowly moving chiefs, and he captured them. 
 
SINAI PENINSULA AND PETBA. 
 
 77 
 
 posed by themselves naturally, when coming from the cave. 
 Here we see them, with their long lances, loaded down with 
 their sometimes ridiculously harmless musketry, strictly accord- 
 ing to nature. The motto of these men is, “Against everybody, 
 and everybody against us.” Nearly every one of them has some 
 blood-feud with somebody else, and is ever in fear of his life. 
 No one of them, therefore, ever permits himself to stir unless 
 fully armed and ready for a fight. Besides the weapons which 
 are seen, they mostly carry some frightful looking war-clubs tied 
 about their waists, easily accessible, and which they threaten to 
 use on every trivial occasion. They rarely strike a blow, how- 
 ever. 
 
 160. OUR TRAVELLERS’ CAMP AT PETRA, where 
 were endured four of the hardest days ever known to an Ara- 
 bian traveller, by our artist and his party. A humble little 
 home it was, scarcely able to withstand much of an attack, if a 
 perpetual application of backsheesh had not kept the enemy at 
 bay. Continual purchases of peace had to be made in order to 
 procure the photographs which make up the present tour, but 
 they were freely made, until the results hoped for were accom- 
 plished. No other photographer ever accomplished so much. 
 At the rear of the camp were three of the excavations in the 
 rocks where the Fellahin and the Bedouin held their head- 
 quarters during our artist’s stay, and where a branch office of 
 purgatory was opened for the enlistment of recruits during the 
 whole four days. It is believed that his lower highness enlisted 
 every one of them in his service without much resistance. 
 
 161. TEMPLE OP THE URN, WITH THE ARCHED 
 TERRACE. — This magnificent structure is one of a group 
 shown in number 158, and one of the most magnificent in 
 Petra, after the Kuzneh and the Beir are considered. The 
 .great urn which overtops the temple is supposed to contain 
 great treasures, and has been battered and bruised for years by 
 the bullets of the Bedouin, who fire at it every time they pass 
 with the hope of breaking it down. The arched terrace which 
 is in front of the grand structure seems to have been erected 
 since the temple was excavated. This splendid facade has been 
 
78 
 
 WILSON’S LANTEKN JOURNEYS. 
 
 hewn out of the rocTt bodily, but not until a depression fifteen 
 feet back had been made, probably to get a good color. The 
 arches in front are of a grayish-brown. The front proper is in 
 streaks of pink as far as the capitals ; above them, and up to 
 the urn on the top of the pediment, are streaks of white, red, 
 and blue; while the rest of the ruins seem to be wondrously 
 variegated. 
 
 162. A COLOE STUDY— COLONNADE OF THE TEM- 
 
 PLE OF THE URN. — The mind can scarcely conceive the 
 variety and the gorgeousness of the rocks which make up these 
 grand structures. Here we have the colonnade, which is oppo- 
 site to the one shown in number 161, taken in order to exhibit 
 the eccentric wavings and stripings of the rocks composing them, 
 and also to show how age has worn them. A column in the 
 foreground is worn by time almost to a point at its base. In 
 the distance we see a break in the wall, through which the 
 temple’s interior may be observed. The ceiling and the column 
 as well are generous in their display of red, blue, yellow, white, 
 and lilac sandstone ; while in the foreground our artist has 
 placed a heavy stone of the same color, with horizontal stripes. 
 
 ' 163. TOMBS, TEMPLES, AND CLIFFS, SOUTH FROM 
 THE ARCHED TERRACE. — This is a typical street view in 
 Petra, wherein we see a number of excavations, ruined facades, 
 and splendid mountain-peaks back of them. The locality is 
 south of the temple of the arched terrace. In the shadowed 
 gorge, which is seen on the left of the picture, is another series 
 of temples, but never lighted sufficiently to enable a photog- 
 rapher to obtain views with any satisfaction. 
 
 164. THE CORINTHIAN TEMPLE, PETRA.-Added 
 
 to all the splendor of Petra is this Corinthian temple, whose 
 pediment, tower, and side columns are of a rich orange color, 
 and whose whole facade is excavated from the rock to which it 
 adheres. Its interior is now but a single room, dark and dismal, 
 lighted only by the doorways which are seen in the picture. It 
 is one of the finest structures remaining in Petra. Roberts, the 
 great artist, who visited Petra in 1839, believes that these great 
 structures were neither temples nor tombs, but for the sole pur- 
 
SINAI PENINSULA AND PETRA. 79 
 
 pose of gratifying the ej^e — a noble indulgence of the national 
 taste for ornament. 
 
 165. TEMPLE OF THE THREE TIERS OF COLUMNS. 
 
 — This temple has been very elaborate in design, and is even 
 more rich in its display of color than those which have been 
 described. One tier of columns reaches over another, and again 
 a third row, giving one the feeling that it must have been 
 erected by three different architects, and, again, reminding one 
 of the Duomo at Florence. Perhaps a similar method was fol- 
 lowed here, of taking a long time to finish a temple oi this kind, 
 as was the case in Italian cities centuries ago— one architect 
 after another spending his lifetime upon their construction, little 
 knowing how soon an earthquake would follow and mutilate 
 their master-masonry. 
 
 167. THE KASR FAROUN AND BROKEN COLUMNS. 
 
 — Now, turning sharply to the south, we see in the distance, 
 close to the little stream which winds its way hurriedly in the 
 same direction towards the Wady Arabah, the only structure of 
 mason-work now remaining in Petra. It stands in the very 
 centre of the city. Its surroundings must have been very rich, 
 as many fine remains of columns lie here. Among them is one 
 or bluish-gray granite, still finely polished, with others of rosy 
 syenite, which doubtless came from the quarries of the Nile, 
 near Philae. In the foreground, our artist has secured numbers 
 of these, which seem piled up on their edges like tiers of grind- 
 stones, parts of a triumphal arch. 
 
 168. THE KASR FAROUN— THE EXTERIOR AND 
 ARCHED DOORWAY.— This, as has been said, is the only 
 standing building not cut from the rock. Doubtless it once had 
 plenty of neighbors, as the many bits about testify. Its ex- 
 terior measures outside 100 by 110 feet. The walls are decorated 
 with stucco-work. Here and there large pieces of wood are 
 inserted, probably for fastening the stucco-work upon. Grain, 
 shrubbery, and ferns grow about it and upon the walls, and, 
 doubtless, did part of the work of pushing down the rocky 
 debris lying inside in confusion. Here the cornices and a 
 decorated arch are shown in full view with deep tiers of arches, 
 
80 Wilson’s lantern journeys. 
 
 of which eight are in good condition. The bent and shat- 
 tered walls, stones of great weight dislodged and looking as 
 though a breath would send them tumbling to the earth, show 
 ruin! ruin ! and desolation ! ” on all sides. Malachi i : 3, 4. 
 
 170. THE KASR EAROUN— THE ARCHED DOOR- 
 WAY. A portion of the interior of this strange building, 
 including the old arch over the entrance of broken columns. 
 In front, and through it, and beyond, groups of fine red, yellow, 
 and gray cliflFs are seen. The effect of the light here is fine, and 
 one is reminded of the temples of the Nile. 
 
 169. THE KASR EAROUH— RUINED INTERIOR.— 
 
 hiom one corner of the vast interior this view is made, showing 
 the picturesque and broken walls and tumbled remains inside 
 and beyond. Through the walls is seen the temple known as 
 the “unfinished.”^ In the far distance, on a high cliff, is a 
 ruined citadel, which must overlook the whole city and sur- 
 rounding country for miles. The view from here is very fine. 
 
 171. THE TEMPLES OF NATURE AND OF EDOM.— 
 
 Now, leaving this handiwork of man and climbing the hill east- 
 ward again, we come to what has been called the Acropolis of 
 Petra. ^ On all sides are met, as we ascend the gorge beyond the 
 acropolis, such views of splendor as this. Never will the beholder 
 forget the grandeur of such scenes, should he once be privileged 
 to observe them. Here not only are seen magnificent facades, 
 hidden in the depressions of the rocks, of various forms, but 
 beyond this may be met the still grander structures of nature 
 which have withstood the elements for thousands of years, and 
 whose varied facades and coloring are magnificent beyond con- 
 ception. 
 
 172. THE TEMPLE OF FLUTED COLUMNS.-On our 
 
 left, as we climb upward towards the Temples of Edom and of 
 Nature, is a low interior. A part of its front is fortunately 
 broken out, so that we may see that in it are still standing four- 
 teen fluted columns of sandstone— red, white, and blue, waved 
 and streaked. This picture is a most interesting one, being of 
 a different type from any of its kindred in this great rock-city. 
 
SINAI PENINSULA AND PETEA. 
 
 81 
 
 173. A ROCK-STAIRWAY AND PULPIT.— AU about 
 Petra there are many stairways leading up to the various struct- 
 ures. And, what is hard to explain, over the majority of the 
 facades of the structures are indications of stairways, usually of 
 six steps, leading from a comice or roof up to nothing. They 
 must have some religious meaning, pertaining to the departure 
 of the soul to heaven or intended to lead the thoughts higher. 
 Gienerally the top step is plain, but sometimes finished with a 
 cornice. Thousands of stairways are erected leading from the 
 valley in all directions, straight, winding, and spiral. Following 
 them, one is apt to meet with some solid secret or surprise. A 
 good example of this last class of stairway is found beyond the 
 chamber of fluted columns. It starts from a grand, green 
 plateau, and is spiral in form. At the head of it are two hol- 
 lowed- out rocks canopied by overhanging cliflTs, causing them to 
 look like old-fashioned pulpits. It is believed that they were 
 used as such, the congregation assembling in the plain below. 
 N 0 quieter or more appropriate place in Petra for such a pur- 
 pose is to be found than what we see. The interior of one of 
 these pulpits was striped blue, lilac, red, and white, and the 
 other was a bright golden color. It may be that David himself 
 ascended these various stairways, stood under these canopies 
 and sang the LXth Psalm, and that these very rocks echoed 
 the sacred tones. It seems to be the only place in Petra that 
 has any suggestion of holiness about it. 
 
 174. THE PYRAMID AND RUINED FORTRESS.— 
 
 Ascending still further flights of stairs, beautifully striped, there 
 is seen a small tank, doubtless used for baptismal purposes. 
 Creeping on now upwards over red, yellow, and gray stairways, 
 the solemn surroundings still continuing, in time the top of a 
 mountain is gained. On the way an altar is seen, conducting 
 water-pipes for a long distance, with inscriptions on the rocks 
 near by. Among the figuring upon the rocky wall was one 
 which bore resemblance to parts of the human foot, animals, 
 etc. All along the way graves are to be seen. On the summit 
 are two “pyramids,” but they are only twelve by six feet at 
 their bases and about twenty feet high. On a cliff a little dis- 
 tance above are some splendid ruins. The citadel must have 
 
82 
 
 WILSON’S LANTERN JOURNEYS. 
 
 been there, and ver3^ strong it was, for three solidly built sec- 
 tions yet remain standing against the sky, erected by, no one 
 can tell who. Here a glorious view is had in all directions, and 
 one can see a complete panorama of the principal streets of 
 Petra lying far below, even down into the gorge of the Sik. 
 On the west. Mount Hor is almost overlooked. Standing here, 
 the wildness is added to by the loud shouts which come up from 
 the Bedouins in their caves near the camp, the tents of which 
 can be seen in the distance. 
 
 175. A SACRIFICIAL ALTAR OF BAAL.— This picture 
 is of a discovery made by our artist, which has not been men- 
 tioned by any other traveller. Scattered over the mountain-top 
 are a number of curious tanks of various sizes. Several contain 
 a number of blind fish. Near them is what must be an altar, 
 once used for sacrifice in the service of the Grod Baal. It is 
 situated on a rock by itself, with four stone-steps leading to it. 
 It consists of a shallow, circular basin forty-eight inches in 
 diameter, and in the centre of it a smaller depression eighteen 
 inches in diameter, all cut out of the rock. To catch the blood 
 which ran out from the basins, a narrow outlet is cut in the 
 rock. Near by is another elevated tank, around which is a 
 passage eighteen inches wide, cut so that the priest could reach 
 it on all sides. This tank is six by nine feet, with stairs also 
 leading to it. All of these tanks seemed to be inclined towards 
 the south, in order that they might be emptied down the moun- 
 tain-side. The largest one was twenty-one by forty-seven feet. 
 In the centre of it was a rock-elevation, two feet eight inches 
 by five feet, with stairs leading to it from the west. An outlet 
 at the southeast corner, leads down the east side of the moun- 
 tain. A tank alive with comical little fish is here, three feet 
 deep and eight by ten feet in size, without any apparent outlet. 
 All these but the larger one are included in the view. 
 
 176. THE RAVINE OF THE DEIR, PETRA. -Opposite 
 the Kusr Faroun the little stream of the Sik quietly leaves the 
 valley and plunges into a gorge towards the south. A little to 
 the right another gorge appears, difficult of ascent, but interest- 
 ing and beautiful. It is the entrance passage to the celebrated 
 
SINAI PENINSULA AND PETEA. 
 
 83 
 
 Temple of the Deir. Now the traveller climbs up through a 
 narrow ravine, over a rocky stairway, among narrow footpaths, 
 at one side of which is a precipice hundreds of feet deep. Past 
 tombs and temples, amid displays of colors, now in the shade 
 and now in the sun, views of gorgeous splendor are seen on 
 every side, and Mount Hor grows nearer and nearer, as the 
 climb is made, till the mosque on its summit is plainly observa- 
 ble. On the west is a wide stairway over which kings and 
 patriarchs have passed. After a good hour of hard climbing, 
 turning up a cliff suddenly on the right, we behold the famous 
 rock-temple called the “Deir.” What a noble mountain-side 
 nature supplied for the carving out of such an architectural 
 wonder. This glorious bit by the way shows part of the climb 
 and passages, with their colored stairs ; caves yawning on all 
 sides ; kiln-shaped cliffs and rows of temples further on, each 
 supplying food for wonder and thought. 
 
 177. A ROCK-TEMPLE — INTERIOR. — This temple was 
 without a facade, and is reached from the Deir by a stairway. 
 In the rear is a pretty shrine, ten by fifteen feet, which must 
 have been originally very gaudily finished. It is now much 
 defaced. Two busts grace its sides, one male, the other female. 
 The interior of the temple is twenty-nine by thirty feet, with a 
 variously colored ceiling, in irregular waves of yellow, red, lilac, 
 and blue, whose forms are plainly shown in the picture. In 
 some places the outer surface of the walls has crumbled away, 
 showing the same colors underneath as upon the ceiling. Near 
 the entrance, on each side, ornamental capitals have been sunken 
 into the rock. One of these is in quite a perfect condition. 
 From here we see that on the north side of the Deir also are 
 stairways which lead to the summit of the chff, from whence 
 the temple was excavated. 
 
 178. THE DEIR FROM THE ROCK-TEMPLE.— From 
 the front of this rock-temple a view of the Deir was made in 
 order to show what a noble mountain-side nature supplied for 
 the carving out of this architectural wonder. What boldness 
 the architect displayed who would risk so much labor on the 
 uncertainty of finding the material which he desired. He must 
 
84 
 
 Wilson’s lantebn journeys. 
 
 have been the same who planned the Kuzneh, for, in fact, in 
 general appearance the Deir is somewhat the same in style, 
 though by no means so florid. The vestibule or facade is one 
 hundred and fifty-six feet wide. The single interior apartment 
 is thirty-seven by forty feet. A depression is in the east end, 
 opposite the door, six by eight feet and fourteen feet high, with 
 an arched top and broken cornices, which have been sunk into 
 the original rock. 
 
 179. THE DEIR FACADE. — There are two tiers of semi- 
 columns in front of this noble structure fifteen feet in circum- 
 ference. The color is quite uniform, being of Petra red. A 
 large plateau is in front covered with fresh, green grass, and 
 here and there are squares and circles of stone, telling that other 
 buildings were once there. This plateau must have been an 
 amphitheatre, as the circle is about sixty feet in diameter. It 
 is thought by some travellers that there must have been some 
 connection between the Deir and Mount Hor, because the Den- 
 is directly facing the mountain, and so near that a person could 
 be seen at the mosque. Here it stands, majestic, quiet, lonely, 
 holding secrets within its grasp which no one has ever solved. 
 Taunting us, silently, with as much power and resistance as the 
 Fellahin who guard it, and, like them, sending one away wonder- 
 ing, dissatisfied, and distracted. 
 
 180. MODNT HOR AND AARON’S TOMB.— From the 
 rock-temple described the summit of Mount Hor is plainly seen, 
 together with the mosque covering the tomb of Aaron on its 
 summit. From the cave we obtain a fine show of rock, tipped 
 with green and red and brown and gray and yellow, with the 
 splendid hills at the right, and Wady Arabah beyond. How 
 privileged was Aaron to be allowed such a quiet place to die. 
 Perhaps he halted on his way at the very place whence our view 
 was taken and rested, and looked up the Wady Arabah wist- 
 fully towards Palestine, with Moses and Eleazer, while they 
 prepared him for his burial. Numbers xx : 28. 
 
 181. AN UNFINISHED ROCK-TEMPLE.-On the side 
 of a cliff, at the right of the Kusr Faroun, is a curious temple 
 only partly finished, showing how the ancient architects were 
 
SINAI PENINSULA AND PETEA. 
 
 85 
 
 accustomed to do their work. They evidently began to quarry 
 at the top, working downwards, as this example proves. And 
 really, when one thinks over it, that appears to be about the 
 only safe way they could work. Some curious indentations are 
 shown at the sides, which were no doubt made first and then 
 the material between them knocked out, as holes are first bored 
 for a mortise and then the rest chiselled out by the carpenter. 
 
 In no other place in the world do we see so many things so 
 different from the rest of the world as we do at Petra. It is a 
 world in itself— unique, unequalled, characteristic. In an age 
 when all the peopled world was at war, any nation finding such 
 an impregnable site as this would naturally choose it for a city. 
 And while nature supplied the sublime parts, how resolutely did 
 man apply his taste, his labor, and his fondness for ornament to 
 make up the grand whole. And the multitude of these works 
 makes them all the more striking. Each perpendicular clitf is 
 carved into form, each lofty peak topped by tasteful structures, 
 each lateral valley and yawning chasm used to display every 
 imaginable style of architecture. Venice only approaches it in 
 novelty, and yet how different. 
 
 And now we leave Petra and all its wonderful glory of color, 
 so brilliant and yet so soft — more like pastile than oil or even 
 water color. Every stone in this wonderful rock- city is a sur- 
 prise. Should the traveller pick up a dirty, rusty piece to break 
 off a bit of color, it will invariably split open and display a 
 combination of stripes, streaks, and waves which will delight 
 him. All of them hold some secret shades of beauty. One 
 can never forget such things. 
 
 There are here not only amphitheatres and other buildings 
 carved out of the native rock by man’s hands, but many others 
 cut by a higher power. And as one leaves the strange city the 
 words of holy writ come to mind : ‘ ‘ For they also built them 
 high places, and images, and groves, on every high hill.” 1 
 Kings xiv : 23. Now, passing out of the great city, we may 
 see lines of aqueducts, which, having caught the water on the 
 mountain-tops, lead it down to the lower buildings of the city. 
 Without them the people could not have lived in these rocky 
 homes. There, too, are piles of pottery, red, thin and delicate, 
 
86 
 
 Wilson’s lantern journeys. 
 
 and often decorated. Again wondering at temples fluted and 
 corrugated and worn and snubbed by time, we pass out at the 
 southern side towards Palestine. We leave the troublesome 
 and peculiar sons of Esau behind, too, and are not sorry to bid 
 them good-bye. 
 
 182. THE PASS OF EH EAH KOSMONEH.-The route 
 from Petra to Palestine by way of Ain El Weibeh (commonly 
 called Kadesh Barnea) is in a northwesterly direction. It leads 
 through some very narrow gorges, as irregularly formed and as 
 brilliantly colored as those at Petra. The principal one of these 
 is called Eh Kah Kosmoneh, which is now before us. Its great 
 walls in the foreground are of yellowish-gray, with bright purple 
 and red stripes waving through from left to right. A much 
 lighter cliff is beyond, and the end of the pass is closed by a 
 cliff, of brilliant red, whose cavernous face is decorated with 
 some stalactites, while the depressions are yellow. These, with 
 the blue sky above, make a gorgeous picture. The travellers, 
 and camels loaded with ordinary baggage, could scarcely pass 
 through this narrow gorge. 
 
 183. THE PASS OF EH RAH KOSMONEH, ROCKS.— At 
 
 the end of the pass is a splendidly formed hill, strangely colored, 
 and almost indescribable, occurring, as it does, in such a quiet 
 place. It causes one to marvel why nature should so display 
 such rare talent where so few people are permitted to witness 
 and enjoy it. And now we leave the beautiful mountain region. 
 Mount Hor being at our right for a long time. We fairly enter 
 now the desert-wastes of Wady Arabah, that great highway 
 which we left at Akabah, and which follows northward straight 
 to the Dead Sea and Jerusalem. Instead of pursuing the 
 journey in that direction, however, to Palestine, we prefer first 
 to visit that interesting section of country which some travellers 
 believe to be the Kadesh Barnea of Scripture. Far above, on 
 the opposite side of the wady, is the land of promise. One 
 bright morning early, our Arab sheykh cried out with delight, 
 as he stood upon a little eminence, “ Moyah Henna !” — “water 
 here.” It was the well of Ain el Weibeh, supposed to be the 
 place where Moses the second time was commanded by God to 
 
SINAI PfiNINStTLA AND PETRA. 87 
 
 strike the rock for water (Numbers xxi) ; where Miriam died, 
 and where Moses and Aaron had their hopes of seeing the 
 promised land blasted. Very near, too, is supposed to be the 
 mountain which some of the Israelites tried to get over in order 
 to reach Palestine. 
 
 184. AIN EL WEIBEH— “KADESH BARNEA.”— One 
 
 hour more of travel over the dreary waste and the oasis of Ain 
 El Weibeh is reached. It is a long, narrow oasis, with scrub- 
 palms, reeds, rushes, grasses, and shrubs growing wild and thick. 
 One fountain or weU, very small, sunk in the mother-rock, is all 
 the show of water which is to be seen here. Certainly a very 
 meagre well to supply such an assemblage as is said to have 
 wandered hereabouts for nearly forty years. As will be proven 
 further on in our lecture, the traveller, who has allowed himself 
 to believe that here, indeed, is the Kadesh Bamea of Scripture, 
 need to have travelled but two or three days more and he would 
 have found that which would have encouraged him to believe, 
 with much greater faith, the discovery he would then make. 
 Here our travellers found in this one little well only enough 
 water to fill their water-skins for drinking and cooking, and a 
 very scanty supply for their camels. Moreover, it was of an 
 exceedingly bad quality, full of living animals. It was the worst 
 water, indeed, found by them during their Arabian journey. 
 True, here was water and a bright little oasis, but the country 
 around was surely not adapted to the wants of such a great 
 assemblage as Israel. Near the well sits Elihuel, our photog* 
 rapher’s cameleer, with the photo-camel. 
 
 185. THE GRAVE OF MIRIAM.— Arising above the 
 well, and near by, is a mound which has been called, for the 
 sake of convenience of location, “the grave of Miriam.” A 
 part of this immense grave is shown in the picture, with a beau- 
 tiful bush of Radjad growing upon it, and the Gaza Sheykh 
 Ouida looking towards the mountains on the west. The soil is 
 crusty and salty here, crumbling under the feet like newly frozen 
 snow. 
 
 186. ON THE BORDERS OF CANAAN . — Striking west- 
 ward now, we come to a range of mountains over which it was 
 
88 WILSON^S LANTEKN JOURNEYS. 
 
 supposed the Israelites crossed in their attempt to get into 
 Palestine. A typical Arabian view is this, with its dead, old 
 gum- Arabic tree and a few juniper bushes between, with the 
 wondrous, bare mountains in the distance, beautiful in shape 
 and color. These splendid hills, all golden, flushed with pink, 
 forming a part of the wall of Nugb Weibeh which led into 
 Wady Merzibah. Up this wady our travellers wandered, “the 
 firet white people who ever came this way.” Turfa trees and the 
 wild pomegranate, red with blossoms, were plentiful, and gave 
 evidence that a difierent country was being reached, for foliage 
 grew more abundantly also. 
 
 187. AN ARABIAN OASIS. — After two or three days of 
 camel-riding over rocky spurs and through deep ravines, seem- 
 ingly miles in the air, our travellers Anally descended a steep 
 and came to a long range of limestone and flint-covered hills. 
 Here for several hours they were winding about and apparently 
 losing their way. They were searching for the Ain Quadis, 
 visited in 1881 by Dr. Henry Clay Trumbull, of Philadelphia, 
 which he believes to be the real Kadesh Barnea of Scripture. 
 Finally, winding around some beautifully formed hills, they came 
 in sight of a magnificent oasis, near which was a walled-up well, 
 and an abundance of fig and palm trees, with rushes and canes 
 abounding. It was a real beauty-spot. Yet they were in doubt 
 as to whether they had indeed found the place for which they 
 were searching. The foreground of our picture is graced by the 
 Sheykh Ouida, who dismounted and stood beside one of the 
 many wells that are here. Certainly a much more likely Kadesh 
 Barnea this, even, than the Ain El Weibeh described. In the 
 neighborhood there were great plains with such fine pastures as 
 had not been seen in Arabia. While near by were many ruins 
 and stone-walls, which were unmistakable evidences of the 
 country having once been thickly settled, and of its being a 
 good place to settle. Certainly such a place as any able general, 
 like Moses, Aaron, or J oshua, would select in preference to Ain 
 El Weibeh. Close by stands an isolated mountain. In the 
 upper end of a gorge was a great stone, making a cavern through 
 which a stream flowed down towards the wells. This mountain 
 is seen in our picture. 
 
SINAI PENINSULA AND PETRA. 
 
 89 
 
 188. BEAUTIFUL HILLS NEAR THE OASIS.— Turn- 
 ing the camera about, our photographer has secured a typical 
 view of the hills surrounding this splendid green spot in the 
 desert, in which also is seen the course of the stream up the 
 oasis towards the same rocky mountain mentioned in 187. The 
 gorgeous coloring of these hills is similar to that described as 
 existing in the neighborhood of Petra. It is sublime. 
 
 189. THE PLAIN, FROM THE OASIS.— Turning now 
 from the oasis towards Palestine we see a vast plain, which 
 might be made to answer, with more reason than Ain El 
 Weibeh, for part of the plain where the wanderings occurred. 
 Here is abundance of shrubbery, such as the cattle and sheep 
 and camels of the Bedouin love to live upon, with abundance 
 of water, and much more chance for the subsistence of a large 
 number of people than any place in all Arabia. And within a 
 few miles are several other such oases, including Ain Quadis, 
 seen by Dr. Trumbull. 
 
 190. THE DEPARTURE FROM ARABIA.— Turning 
 from this beautiful spot, our travellers followed the oasis north- 
 ward and westward still across the plain, which is lined on both 
 sides with splendid peaks of varied color and lovely shape. The 
 oasis is still by their side, and, could we stand here and watch 
 them, presently we should see them turning up the deep ravine 
 to the right, and they would be lost to our vision. Their backs 
 are now turned to us, and they are trotting, upon their camels, 
 their last few miles in Arabia ; for ere long they will reach the 
 southern borders of Palestine and enter the holy land. On their 
 right, beyond the shrubbery, is a beautiful little mound, which 
 might be taken for the grave of Miriam, and, perhaps, the very 
 one over which Israel climbed when entering Palestine. 
 
 191. A TIYAHAH BEDOUIN CAMP.— The first night 
 after leaving the oasis just named must be spent in the camp of 
 these friendly Bedouins. To reach them, the route carries the 
 traveller over mountains which are covered with ruins and long 
 walls of stone from one to two feet high, giving every evidence 
 of a large number of people having at one time inhabited the 
 country. They seem to be like fences running parallel with each 
 
90 
 
 WILSON’S LANTERN JOURNEYS. 
 
 other. Probably they were placed there to save the land from 
 the spring torrents which would wash the soil away, as at Petra. 
 In every direction are evidences of settlements having existed 
 there. Now, finally, through Nugb Hawsl, and then down into 
 the valley again, when a beautiful stream is reached. Certainly 
 this must have been Kadesh Meribeh, or a part of it. The 
 old Sheykh Suleman Abou Asset presides over this tribe, and is 
 noted for his hospitality to strangers. His camp is a very large 
 one, and he owns a great many camels and flocks of goats and 
 sheep. His people look happy and are prosperous. They also 
 have many horses. The flowers now begin to abound, among 
 which the red poppy and the white field-daisy, so familiar to 
 Americans, largely predominate. 
 
 192. LOADING A CAMEL FOR THE MARCH.- 
 
 Before leaving this peaceful camp we will indulge in some camel 
 pictures. This one represents two of our Bedouin attendants 
 leading a camel with caravan apparatus, or with our photog- 
 rapher’s luggage. The glass plates were carefully stored in 
 boxes covered with sole leather, not only to spare them from the 
 elements, but in order that they might resist the continual saw- 
 ing and rubbing of the ropes which tie them to the hump of the 
 patient beast who has carried them now some forty days. He 
 appears to be very docile here, squatted, as he is, upon the 
 ground, but it is considerable of an operation to get him into 
 this position. Not only must he be coaxed, cajoled, threatened, 
 and pulled, until, amidst many grumblings, growlings, and mut- 
 terings, he consents to shut himself up like the blades of a jack- 
 knife ; continuing his mutterings, he allows the load to be put 
 upon his back — unless it be that he takes a notion to suddenly 
 arise and send everything fljdng after the fleeing attendants, 
 which is not unfrequently the case. 
 
 193. THE HEAD OF A CAMEL, PROFILE.-Our artist 
 has amused us here by giving us an enlarged head of this antique 
 camel. A mobile beast he is certainly, but not so much so as 
 he looks. He never permits himself to make friends with any 
 one except his native keeper, and with him he only occasionally 
 unbends enough to cany on a little flirtation, such as receiving 
 
SINAI PENINSULA AND PETRA. 
 
 91 
 
 a kiss upon his oflFensive lips, or it may be a lump of sugar from 
 the hand of his chief admirer. 
 
 194. THE HEAD OF A CAMEL, REAR . — This view of 
 the camel is the one which the traveller mostly sees from his 
 saddle, and the one which, best of all, he likes to see. It is a 
 source of constant amusement to him, especially if, impatient 
 with the slow pace of the beast of burden, he makes an effort 
 with his sun umbrella or cane to aim a blow between those tiny 
 ears. The camel, ever on the alert for such gentle l eminders, 
 is a most expert dodger. He sights a well-intended blow with 
 all the dexterity of a mosquito. The camel is a good and faith- 
 ful servant, and no one, after having ridden on his back for a 
 number of weeks, can but feel an attachment for him, and a 
 disposition to forgive all his sins and ask his forgiveness for 
 anything that has been done in a heated moment to hurt his 
 feelings, when bidding him good-bye. 
 
 195. THE VILLAGE OF DHOHEREHEH.— This village 
 is on the southern border of Palestine. Its houses are mostly 
 of stone, with earthen roofs, and inhabited by the Fellahin. 
 Our picture shows some of their arches and walls, with houses 
 and a tower back. The people are light in color, fine looking, 
 and seem to be prosperous. G-reen pastures and still waters ; 
 fields lined with daisies, poppies, buttercups, dandelions, and 
 many other kinds of fiowers abound, with well-tilled ground, 
 shepherds and farmers at work — altogether, they present a 
 refreshing scene to the desert traveller. Here, too, are women 
 carrying water from the wells to the flocks that rest by the side 
 of the wells, such as we saw at Kadesh. Gray hills of rock, 
 looking like the eastern shore of Massachusetts, abound. And 
 now we leave the groves and vineyards and begin to find that, 
 instead of the splendid wadies of Arabia, the roads are rough 
 and at times almost impassable. With many regrets, we depart 
 from the wilderness of Arabia and enter upon the far more beau- 
 tiful land of Palestine, where all will be different and yet exceed- 
 ingly interesting. 
 
 “ It is the soul that sees ; the outward eyes 
 Present the object; but the mind descries.” 
 
92 Wilson’s lantern journeys. 
 
 196. A few illustrations of the manners and customs of the 
 people with whom we have been travelling will be of interest. 
 It is a well-known fact that the Bedouin Arab makes but few 
 friends even among his own tribes. The cast-iron law which 
 exists among them, known as the “blood-feud,” permits a 
 relative of one whose blood has been shed to pursue the mur- 
 derer until he is able to take his life ; but woe be to him if he 
 does such a thing, for he then becomes the pursued, and must 
 live the rest of his days in constant fear. There are but few 
 who live without this fear. In this picture we see a man who 
 is apparently watching now for some enemy to come, as he sits 
 at his tent-door, “armed to the teeth,” we might say, to meet 
 the foe. 
 
 197. We see him now fully on the alert. In his excitement 
 he has dropped his weapon, and, placing his hand over his eyes, 
 he is looking into the far distance, evidently sure that the enemy 
 is coming, and probably thinking over in his mind what he shall 
 do next. He is a handsome fellow, and is dressed in the full 
 style of his tribe, with striped garment underneath, which latter 
 is of gay colors— yellow, red, black, and white. Over that is the 
 splendid camel s-hair abbayeh,” which shelters him from the 
 heat in the daytime and protects him from the cold at night. 
 Upon his head is the “kefeeyah,” made of rich silk from 
 Damascus, of all the colors of the rainbow, and a few more. 
 Tied about his head is what is known as the agal. 
 
 198. Another picture gives us a better likeness of the young 
 sheyk, who, after all, seems to have been troubled by a false 
 alarm ; for now he is reclining peacefully in front of his tent, 
 although sword in hand and lance close by. The agal, spoken of 
 before, and seen now more plainly, like a rope around his head, 
 serves the Arab very much as the chip on the shoulder of a 
 combative schoolboy does, namely, as something to be coveted 
 by the enemy. For if the Bedouin’s agal is taken from him, he 
 is considered “disarmed,” no matter what weapon he may have 
 about his person. Always, if one man can “ take the agal from 
 another s head, ” he is considered the best man, under the Bed- 
 
SINAI PENINSULA AND PETRA. 93 
 
 ouin Code. There are times, however, when the Bedouin is 
 quiet and at rest, and even at prayer. 
 
 199 represents our friend in his more peaceful occupation. 
 His gaudily woven prayer-cloth is spread underneath him, and 
 his shoes are removed and placed in front of him, that no one 
 may come between him and his blessings. Having read his 
 Koran, he stands it upon its edge near by, and places himself in 
 the first attitude of prayer, on his knees, with his hands placed 
 by the side of his head and his eyes uplifted devoutly to heaven. 
 
 200. We now see him in the second posture, which is varied 
 but little from the other, except that the body is lowered upon 
 the heels, and the hands placed upon the knees in a humble 
 attitude. His chief cry is “Saalam Aleikum “ Hod give 
 you peace.” 
 
 201. The next position is to rise partly again and place the 
 hands in the whiskers, “to gather in the blessings” from 
 heaven and hold them in the whiskers or beard. The beard is 
 an object of great admiration with the Bedouin, and the longer 
 and the whiter it is, the more he is respected and reverenced. 
 
 202. Now, after the blessings are received, it is an act of 
 humility to prostrate one’s self, and we see our Arab friend with 
 his hands before him in almost as humble a position as he can 
 take. His prayer now is to Grod, the only Hod, and to the only 
 Prophet Mohammed. We might hear him saying more and 
 more fervently as he goes on, “Uallah Akbah!” “Uallah! 
 Akbah!” 
 
 203. Prom this position he rises partly, as seen now, and 
 stands upon his feet upon the prayer-cloth. Thus he passes 
 repeatedly through all the postures already seen, and then pros- 
 trates himself more humbly than before, his face upon his 
 hands, and his hands in the dust, as seen in number 
 
 204. From this posture he rises after taking all the others, 
 and so on a number of times, repeating more and more vehem- 
 ently, as he progresses, the prayers of the Koran, believing 
 that the more frequently he repeats, the more blessings he 
 
 receives. 
 

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