CMR-^yp^RICA. "mELii i. Pattotm NOVIHM? i BV 3500 .P48 1917 Patton, Cornelius Howard, 1860-1939. The lure of Africa EDITED UNDER THE DIRECTION OF THE MISSIONARY EDUCATION MOVEMENT OF THE UNITED STATES AND CANADA THE LURE OF AFRICA CORRESPONDENCE CONCERNING MISSION STUDY Send the proper one of the following blanks to the secretary of your denominational mission board whose address is in the "List of Mission Boards and Correspondents" at the end of this book. We expect to form a mission study class, and desire to have any suggestions that you can send that will help in organizing and conducting it. Name Street and Number City or Town State . . , Denomination Church. Text-book to be used We have organized a mission study class and secured our books. Below is the enrolment. Name of City or Town State Text-book Underline auspices under which class is held : Denomination ^^^^^ Y. P. Soc. Church Men Senior Women's Soc. Intermediate Name of Leader Y. W. Soc. Junior Address Sunday School Name of Pastor I^ate of starting State whether Mission Study Class, Frequency of Meetings, Lecture Course, Program Meet- ings, or Reading Circle Number of Members . . , Does Leader desire Helps? , Chairman, Missionary Committee, Young People's Society Address Chairman, Missionary Committee, Sunday School , Address ZULU WARRIOR fa |i I'll THE LURE OF AFRICA ^' % ( NOV I ■^ 1917 ^^^ ^ BY y CORNELIUS H . PATTON SECRETARY, HOME DEPARTMENT, AMERICAN BOARD OF COMMISSIONERS FOR FOREIGN MISSIONS NEW YORK MISSIONARY EDUCATION MOVEMENT OF THE UNITED STATES AND CANADA 1917 COPYRIGHT, 19 1 7, BY MISSIONARY EDUCATION MOVEMENT OF THE UNITED STATES AND CANADA TO MY WIFE AND DAUGHTERS WHO REMAINED BEHIND DURING MY AFRICAN WANDERINGS CONTENTS CHAPTER PAGE A Personal Word xi I The Lure of Africa i II Strongholds of Mohammedanism 31 III Mohammedanism on the March 57 IV Strongholds of Christianity 85 ; V Africa's Debit and Credit Account with Civilization 109 VI The Heart of Paganism 137 VII Africa the Laboratory of Christianity 165 Bibliography 194 Index 199 ILLUSTRATIONS PAGB Zulu Warrior Frontispiece Victoria Falls — Over a Mile of Falling Water. View from the West End of the Gorge 8 In the Desert of Sahara 24 Athletics at Assiut College, Egypt 48 The United Presbyterian Mission Field in Egjrpt (Map) 48 Algerian Boys ^ 56 Swahili Ivory Carriers. This Tribe is Becoming Mohammedan 64 A Mohammedan Prayer Service in the Desert 68 Proposed Lines of Mission Stations to Prevent the Mohamme- dan Advance (Map) 78 Mission Station, Doleib Hill, Egyptian Sudan 80 Zones of Mohammedan and Christian Advance (Map) 86 Zulu Chief and Headmen 88 A Smeller-out Woman 88 Natives on the Way to Execution for Cannibalism 120 Carrying Rum into Africa 120 Johannesburg, the Hub of South Africa (Map) 126 A Johannesburg Gold Mine. Mountains of Tailings 128 Natives in Mining Compounds. A Good Chance for Missions. 128 Kikuyu Women, British East Africa 137 A Witch-doctor Treating an Old Chief. Pouring Quarts of Medicine Down His Throat 144 Raw Material on the Congo 152 A Heathen Native's Home 176 A Christian Native's Home 176 A Missionary Making Bricks, Healing the Sick, and Preaching the Gospel, All on the Same Day 184 Map End ix A PERSONAL WORD When I returned a few years ago from a rather extended trip in Africa, several friends remarked, "Of course, you will write a book on the subject." "That," I took pains to assure them, "is exactly what I shall not do." I had no desire to add to the large number of books of African travel on the strength of a single trip in that continent. Had it not been for the earnest sohcitation of the Missionary Education Movement, I should have adhered to my resolution. The fact that a work was desired covering the entire continent appealed to me, as in my observations and reading I had come to think of Africa as a whole, and I was obliged to admit that there are few books covering so wide a range, which are also brought up to date. Another consideration was the unusual chance to interest the young people of our churches in the study of the missionary enterprise. Africa appeared to me to offer a unique opportunity in that direction. The compelling thought, however, was this. On my travels I discovered that many of the missionaries in Africa are discouraged over the attitude of the home churches toward their beloved continent. In the very day of their greatest successes, when the work of decades is coming to a large fruitage, they detect, or think they do, a waning interest at home. Some say it is the result of race prejudice, which appears to them to be xii A PERSONAL WORD gaining ground in the United States. More attribute it to the fact that Africa has been cast somewhat into the shade in missionary interest by China and other countries which have come to the front in recent years. In either case they are convinced that, both in the matter of support of the work and in the obtaining of recruits, Africa is not getting her dues. This gloomy outlook has affected some of the missionaries to the extent that they begin to doubt if Africa really possesses the attractions which appeal to the home constituency. The depression on the part of the missionaries was so apparent that I came home resolved to cheer them up in every way in my power. I undertook to demonstrate that Africa not only is not lacking in fea- tures which interest the Christian public, but that it is peculiarly the field which lends itself to romantic description and appeal. I have always held that, next to highly cultivated beings like poets and inventors, the most interesting thing in the world is primitive man. And surely Africa is not lacking in material of this kind. As for the attitude of student volunteers, that is largely a matter of education. With their hearts inclined toward the foreign work, if we give them the facts, interest will follow as a matter of course. This at least has been my theory in the more than 200 addresses I have been enabled to give on Africa and its needs. If this book helps in any wise to turn the tide of interest toward this neglected continent, I shall be amply repaid. A PERSONAL WORD xiii The time for writing has been short, and the more have I appreciated the help of many friends. I would especially mention the Rev. Frederick B. Bridgman, D. D., of Johannesburg, who was my traveling com- panion in several parts of Natal and throughout my Angola trip, and whose knowledge of native affairs, as they relate to governmental and economic con- ditions, is not surpassed. I particularly appreciate the coming to Boston of the Rev. Joseph Clark, of the American Baptist Foreign Mission Society, for the express purpose of enlightening me upon conditions on the Congo, a region of which I have no personal knowledge. Professor Williston Walker, of Yale, put me on the right track as to certain historical ques- tions in North Africa, and Professor Harlan P. Beach, of the same institution, who shares in my enthusiasm for Africa, was helpful in many ways, especially in preserving a proper balance in the treatment of the various missions. The secretaries of mission boards having work in Africa made my interests their own and have placed much valuable material in my hands. In the matter of books, I have had abundant reason to appreciate the facilities of the Missionary Research Library in New York City, of which Mr. Charles H. Fahs is the librarian. Mr. Fahs not only placed at my disposal this collection, which is rich in works on Africa, but interested himself in running down sev- eral obscure questions which I was endeavoring to solve. It has given me a particularly comfortable feel- ing that these pages, before publication, have passed xiv A PERSONAL WORD under the critical eye of my colleague, Dr. William E. Strong, whose suggestions were incorporated almost without change. I must say, also, how much I have enjoyed the cooperation of the editorial committee of the Missionary Education Movement. Their criticisms have been discriminating and helpful in many ways, particularly in maintaining the pedagogical point of view. Finally, let me disavow for the book any claim to erudition or completeness. All I would urge is that it has been written out of a real love for Africa and with the single aim of advancing the Kingdom in that continent. C. H. P. Boston, Massachusetts, March i, 191 7 THE LURE OF AFRICA THE LURE OF AFRICA A company of young people was recently asked to vote upon the question, "In which continent would you prefer to travel, should you be given the oppor- tunity of making just one journey into the mission field?" The alluring features of Europe, Asia, Africa, and North and South America were spread before them and they were requested to state their prefer- ences. Not one favored Africa. This is not wholly surprising, in view of the special attention which has been paid to the other continents in recent missionary literature, and when we consider how many interests other than missionary enter into our thought of Asia and Europe, not to mention nearer sections of the world. I hope to demonstrate that Africa is second to no continent in those features which interest the traveler and student and that, when it comes to mis- sionary affairs, Africa's claims are unique. Let me begin by taking five typical scenes. The Streets of Cairo World travelers never forget their first view of oriental life. When they land at their first port and the blaze of the Eastern color and strange custom bursts upon them, they know it is an epoch in their 2 THE LURE OF AFRICA lives. Such letters as they write home! Some- times it is Smyrna, sometimes Constantinople, some- times Bombay, or Yokohama; but the effect is al- ways entrancing; the impression never wears off. When the directors of the Columbian Exposition at Chicago were looking over the world for a bit of oriental life which could not fail to interest and charm, they chose the streets of Cairo, and the majority of travelers will agree that the choice was a wise one, whatever they may have thought of the merits of the reproduction. The streets of Cairo — who will attempt their description! Your traveler friend characteristi- cally stops at Shepheard's Hotel (where, according to Richard Harding Davis, is to be found one of the sights of the world), and five or six pages of the first letter are taken up with picturing the strange people who pass the doors of the famous hostelry — Egyp- tians, Copts, Turks, Syrians, Nubians, negroes from the Sudan, Bedouins, — an unending pageant of oriental life. But this is merely the portal to the city. It Is when your friend enters old Cairo and penetrates the maze of streets and passageways of the bazaars, that his rhetoric breaks down and you are told to come over and see for yourself. Stanley Lane-Poole speaks of Cairo as "The City of the Arabian Nights," and he recalls the dreams of our childhood days by such passages as this : "Every step in the old quarters of the Mohammedan city tells a story of the famous past. The stout remnant of a fortified wall, a dilapidated mosque, a carved door, THE LURE OF AFRICA 3 a Kufic text, — each has its history, which carries us back to the days when Saladin went forth from the gates of Cairo to meet Richard in the plains of Acre, or when Bibars rode at the head of his Mamekikes in the charge which trampled upon the crusaders of St. Louis." 1 Cairo, with its cosmopolitan population of 650,000, is Africa's great city. But its interest for us lies more in the fact that it is the intellectual center of the Mo- hammedan world. Its multitudinous mosques, if not architecturally impressive, appeal to us as the power- house of the religion which disputes the world with Christianity. Cairo is a point of departure for the great pagan areas of central Africa; a hundred million primitive blacks seem to beckon to you when you as- cend her towers. Cairo also is the vestibule to the wonders of ancient Egypt. A writer has said, "Three things never fail to satisfy the tourist. They are the Sphinx of Egypt, the Taj Mahal of India, and the Great Wall of China." Note that he places the Sphinx first; and well he may. From the ramparts of the citadel of Cairo you can see not only the countless houses and mosques of the city, but the broad stream of the Nile, and far off on the verge of the Libyan plateau rise the Great Pyramid and the gray forms of those other monuments of an antiquity so remote that they were hoary with age when Abraham jour- neyed to Egypt from Canaan. ^Stanley Lane-Poole, Cairo: Sketches of its History, Monu- ments, and Social Life, p. vii. 4 THE LURE OF AFRICA Perhaps the young people who voted against Africa forgot about Cairo and Egypt. Mombasa Now let us drop the curtain on that famous scene and take a look at something more suggestive of Africa to-day. Mombasa will serve our purpose ex- cellently. It means a trip down the east coast, which is so full of strange sights, as we poke our way into port after port, that a selection is somewhat difficult. The joys of the east coast have yet to be adequately portrayed, although Milton seems to have had them in mind when he wrote: As, when to them who sail Beyond the Cape of Hope, and now are past Mozambic, off at sea northeast winds blow Sabean odors from the spicy shore Of Araby the blest.' Milton also mentions Mombasa by name, in the pas- sage in "Paradise Lost," where the Mount of Temp- tation is contrasted with the hill up which Michael leads Adam to show him in vision how widely his descendants will be scattered.* To the Puritan poet it was one of the remotest points of geography, a sort of Ultima Thule of his day; and it is a commentary upon the newness and yet oldness of Africa that even to us Mombasa seems one of the most distant spots on the globe. From Cairo you journey by rail to Port Said, which 1 "Paradise Lost," Book IV, 11. 159-163. 2/Wd., Book XI, 1.399. THE LURE OF AFRICA 5 has been called the most religious city in the world, because so many travelers leave their religion there on their way to the East. Taking a steamer, you pass through the Suez Canal and on down the coast of British, German, and Portuguese Africa. The im- mense size of the continent is suggested by the fact that you are four days passing through the Red Sea. Mombasa is located on an island at the mouth of a river in British East Africa. A traveler has com- pared it with Stevenson's ''Treasure Island" because of the romantic charm of the tropical scenery. As the steamer winds its way up the channel, palms wave a welcome from the shore, while here and there the sepulchral baobab stands out against the cloudless sky. All Africa is upon you the moment you land. The Somali and Swahili of the coast, the warlike Masai of the uplands, and the virile Baganda of the lake coun- try all have their representatives at the dock. You can imagine a hundred other tribes from these. There is an old Portuguese fort on the harbor front which takes you back to buccaneer days. It was built in 1594. When you look up the history of the place, you find the city has changed hands thirteen times. Once the imam of Oman invested the fortress for five years. Once it was held by the Turks. Several times it had an independent government. Since 1887 it has en- joyed peace and prosperity under the British flag. In the streets of Mombasa you see camels ignominiously hitched to carts and driven about like ponies! The railroad to Uganda and the big game country starts 6 THE LURE OF AFRICA from here and Englishmen are much in evidence. A fine cathedral, in memory of Hannington, the martyr bishop, attests that some good missionary work has been done. Altogether, Mombasa is the typical city of the east coast. The importance of this port will be enhanced if ever the Cape-to-Cairo railroad is brought to completion, so that the products of the undeveloped sections of central Africa may be brought to the coast. German East Africa is now the only missing link in the great system which Great Britain is endeavoring to put through "all red." Victoria Falls We choose one of the sublime spectacles of the world for our next scene. Imagine you are on the upper Zambezi, floating down in a native canoe, just as Livingstone did when he discovered the great cata- ract in 1855. The tawny stream sweeps through the tropical forest silent and solemn, offering not a hint of the mighty leap into the chasm below. Islands abound in mid-stream, full of strange bird life. Vines and parasitic creepers, like tangled cordage, trail from the overhanging trees. Troops of monkeys gallop over the tree-tops in an incredible way. Bands of giraffes, the most picturesque of quadrupeds, and Africa's ex- clusive possession, gaze timidly at you where the river jungle gives way to glades of a thinner forest growth. Suddenly there is a disturbance in the water ahead; a rounded rock appears to rise from the surface. The canoemen shake their paddles in excitement and send THE LURE OF AFRICA 7 up a mighty shout, "Hippo, Hippo!" There he is in all his fascinating ugliness, a huge beast who opens his jaws as though to swallow the canoe and all its contents, and then, puffing and snorting like a fat old man going up-hill, slowly disappears under the surface. Livingstone's canoe was upset by one of these beasts, and the entire party was endangered. The current now runs very swiftly, circling in great eddies around the rocks and islets. The canoemen call your attention to columns of mist rising a thousand feet in the air. Simultaneously a dull roar, as of a double Niagara, smites your ear. It is Mosi-oa-tunya, "Sounding Smoke," and you realize that the cataract lies just ahead. The natives are paddling desperately to make the point of an island in mid-stream — Liv- ingstone's Island. Smoother water follows and you reach the landing in safety. You make your way through the tangled creepers and underbrush to the lower end of the island, and there from a projecting ledge you look down into the gorge of the Victoria Falls. The river, 1,860 yards wide, with almost a straight front, but broken by islands and rocks, makes a leap of 343 feet into a fissure so narrow that it seems as if a stone might be thrown across. The clouds of mist, which seem blown out of the depths by great explosions, and which fall about you in heavy rain, add to the sense of mystery and awe. The fierce rays of the tropical sun, breaking through, project full-circled rainbows against the wall of falling waters. It is a scene unmatched in all the world. 8 THE LURE OF AFRICA When Livingstone stood upon this spot, he appre- ciated fully the interest people would take in his dis- covery, and it was with reverent affection that he named the falls for his own queen. He also cut his initials in the bark of a great tree close to the brink of the cataract, and there are those who claim to make out the letters to this day. We owe it to Cecil Rhodes and his Cape-to-Cairo railroad that the falls are now made accessible from the south. Rhodes instructed his American engineers to bridge the gorge so close to the cataract that the spray would fly into the pas- sengers' faces as the trains crossed. They literally did this thing, and there in the heart of Africa you have that graceful steel arch, said to be the highest railroad bridge in the world, an engineering feat of astonish- ing boldness. It is worth a trip to Africa to see the Victoria Falls, especially if you can be there when the river is high. A Native War-Dance Now for an African war-dance — not the real thing, of course, but the kind they arrange for European vis- itors when the missionary sends word to the neighbor- ing chiefs, "I have a visitor at the station from over the sea ; I desire him to meet you and as many of your peo- ple as you can call. I desire you to bring your war- clubs and spears. We kill an ox when the sun is high." They need no second invitation. Let it be noted right here that kings and chiefs in Africa are not as rare as in some parts of the world. A modern poet has it: THE LURE OF AFRICA 9 There's a king on every ash-heap, There's princes not a few, There's a whole raft-load of potentates On the road to Timbuktu. So you are sitting in the missionary's bungalow the day of your arrival. Tea has been served and you have settled down to read your mail from home, when the missionary comes in and says, "There are some friends out here who would like to see you." All un- suspecting you go out upon the lawn. Moving up the hillside you behold a phalanx of black humanity — some hundreds of men in rows so compact that they seem to touch breast to back. They are naked except for a leopard skin or some other pelt about the waist. Their bodies shine like the top of a stove; their teeth glisten like ivory. Every man carries a knobkerrie or spear, which they raise simultaneously to the rhythm of a deep-throated, minor-strained war-song. That song — how it wails and moans through interminable stanzas, always ending with a chord of indescribable richness! You say to yourself, "I will remember that song forever." Five minutes later you cannot recall one line. The phalanx is marching up the hill, or rather it is inching along, with much stamping of bare feet, as the solid mass sways to the right and left. And now braves come dancing out from the front rank to per- form special stunts for your benefit. One stabs at imaginary leopards in the grass — such feats of valor that the throngs of women who trail on the borders lo THE LURE OF AFRICA halloo shrilly, clapping their hands over their mouths. Another jumps into the air an incredible distance, then, bounding forward as lithe as a cat, shakes his war-club as though to brain a dozen men at a stroke. There is terrific applause from the side lines. The women are now greatly excited and are drawn into the melee. One hugely stout dame prances up and down in what an American school-girl would call "an absolutely killing way." Her rolls of fat keep time with the music. The warriors are now within fifty feet of the receiv- ing line and their attentions grow more familiar. A beefy brave assumes a statuesque pose in front of the mass and levels his spear at your head. Now is the time of testing, white man! Keep your smile going and don't move an inch. He strides forward to within six feet of where you stand. With rolling eyes and devilish grimaces, he thrusts his spear to within a few inches of your nose. At that critical moment the mis- sionary's wife comes to your rescue and, suddenly opening her sun umbrella, she shoos him away. Yes, this is a war-dance, but a highly good-natured one, with a big ox roasting on a spit over in the grove. You return to the bungalow and your mail from home, rejoicing that times have changed so that the natives are to feed on the ox instead of on yourself. The thing impresses you as horribly heathenish but mighty interesting. After all, the most fascinating thing in Africa is the African. THE LURE OF AFRICA ii The Great Zulu Choir at Durban By way of contrast let us shift now to a scene about as different from the last as can well be imagined. We may the more appropriately speak of it as a scene, since it was staged on the platform of the city hall in Durban, the leading city of Natal. In connection with the seventy-fifth anniversary of the starting of mission work among the Zulus, held in 191 1, the vari- ous mission boards united in a great public meeting of felicitation and thanksgiving. The city hall was offered for the purpose, a superb auditorium, not un- like Carnegie Hall, New York, with a seating capacity of 3,000. It was a daring enterprise, as only white people were to be admitted, except for 250 natives in the topmost gallery ; and the whites of Durban had not shown much sympathy with what the missionaries were doing. But Lord Herbert Gladstone, the gov- ernor-general of South Africa, was to preside; Lady Gladstone, the mayor, and other persons of prominence were to attend ; and good speaking was promised. The leading attraction, however, proved to be the Zulu choir, 345 strong, drawn from the near-by mission schools and led by Lutuli, a native teacher. The choir was banked in front of the great organ and made a brave sight, the young men in dark suits relieved by red ribbon rosettes, the young women in white dresses, set off by large Quaker collars of pink and blue in alternate rows. Every seat in the hall was occupied, and not less 12 THE LURE OF AFRICA than one thousand persons stood throughout the eve- ning. When Lord Gladstone entered, the chorus rose and gave him in mighty shout the royal salute of a Zulu king, "Bayete!" Lord Gladstone was visibly moved by this mark of respect and loyalty. The speeches were good, but when the chorus rendered sev- eral of the great anthems of the church, enthusiasm swept over the audience, wave upon wave, until it was well-nigh impossible to stop the applause. Some of the numbers sung were Grieg's "The Ransomed Hosts," Stainer's "Who Are These?", Palmer's "Trust Ye in the Mighty God." The African is a born singer, as everyone knows; but the possibilities of a drilled chorus of Africans just out of the jungle, rendering the noblest Christian compositions, had seemingly never been suspected. The volume which came from those sable breasts, the richness of tone, the velvety effects of the quiet passages, the swelling crescendos, the vigor of attack, the significance they put into the words, — here was a unique and thrilling combination. The soul of Africa was speaking in the music of that hour. A particularly strong impression was produced by the rendering of "Diademata" : Crown him with many crowns, The Lamb upon his throne ! Hark, how the heavenly anthem drowns All music but its own! Awake, my soul, and sing Of him who died for thee, And hail him as thy matchless King Through all eternity. THE LURE OF AFRICA 13 Here was Africa giving back to the white man in beautiful harmonies the gospel she had received. Here was Africa pledging herself to join the white man in sending that gospel to the continent's remotest bound. One missionary who was present writes that he has since heard those very songs of the Zulu choir sung in distant places, out in the wilds of Natal and in remote parts of the Transvaal. Possibly these five glimpses into Africans life will help us to realize that the continent is not such a dull place after all. It has been called the monotonous con- tinent, in reference to its regular coast-line and the sameness of its topography in certain sections; but to one alive to historical, anthropological, scenic, and present-day human interest, it oifers a bewildering array of attractions. How Great Is Africa? At one time, strictly speaking, Africa was hardly more than a corner of what we call Tunis, where dwelt a Berber tribe, known as Afarik, which is said to have given its name to the Roman colony of Africa. This name gradually expanded until it embraced the en- tire continent, very much as Asia came to be named from a small section of Asia Minor. To the Egyp- tians, Africa was the Nile valley as far south as Abyssinia, together with the southern coast of the Mediterranean and the western coast of the Red Sea. To the Phoenicians, Africa may have extended as far 14 THE LURE OF AFRICA south as the Zambezi on the east coast and even far- ther; it depends upon where you locate the Ophir of the Bible, whether in Arabia or in South Africa. Ptolemy, the geographer and mathematician, living in the second century A. D., drew a map on which he traced the source of the Nile to two lakes near the equator — a remarkably accurate calculation, or was it a guess ? For several centuries the Romans based their ideas on Ptolemy's map. At the time of the Mohamme- dan invasion in the seventh century, nothing seems to have been known of Africa south of the Sahara Desert. But it was not long before the enterprising Arab traders opened up the great Sudan region as far south as the forests of the Congo. It is to the Portuguese navigators that we owe our knowledge of Africa's size and shape. When they began their explorations late in the fifteenth century, the continent was supposed to be a stunted affair, about half its real size. It was this mistake which led them to seek a route to India by rounding the southern point of Africa, just as Columbus, by a similar miscalcula- tion, sought to reach India by sailing westward. It is a curious coincidence that it was the lure of India which led both to the discovery of America and the delimiting of Africa. The work of these venturesome Portuguese should be kept clearly in mind. A good date to remember is 141 5, which may be said to mark the beginning of modern exploration. In that year Prince Henry emerged as the national hero of Portu- gal in connection with the capture from the Moors of THE LURE OF AFRICA 15 Ceuta, the port in Morocco directly opposite Gibraltar. This was little Portugal's "comeback" upon Moham- medanism after six centuries of oppression. Then began the voyages down the west coast by Prince Henry and other daring souls, by which they passed cape after cape, until they discovered the mouth of the Congo in 1484. It was in 1497 that Bartholo- mew Diaz rounded the Cape of Good Hope and passed into the Indian Ocean. Ten years later, the greatest of them all, Vasco da Gama, with four small ships, explored the east coast as far north as Mombasa and then, by one of the most daring decisions of history, struck across the waste of waters until he landed on "India's coral strand." We Americans do well to sing the praises of Columbus and the Cabots, to whom our continent owes so much; but let us not forget the equally thrilling adventures of Prince Henry and da Gama, who placed the great bulk of Africa on the map as we find it to-day. It is hard for us to realize that Portugal, through her ownership of Brazil, her grip on India, and with three quarters of the coast of Africa hers by the right of discovery, was the great commercial and colonizing power of the sixteenth century. In those days that little country of two million souls styled her monarch "King of Portugal and of the Two Lands of the Set- ting Sun on this Side and on that Side of the Sea in Africa, Lord of Guinea and of the Conquest and Navigation of Ethiopia, Arabia, Persia, and India." Had Portugal's life been quickened by the Reforma- i6 THE LURE OF AFRICA tion, so that she could have swung into line with the modern states, she might easily have rivaled England in her influence upon the world. As it was, an exten- sive trade with India and with the African coasts was developed, only to have the great prizes of commerce fall to the English and the Dutch. How great then is Africa? To say that it contains 12,000,000 square miles conveys little; the mind takes in such figures with difficulty. The method of com- parison is better; so we might say that Africa is three times the size of Europe, half as large again as North America, or about the size of North America and Europe combined. In round numbers it measures 5,000 miles north and south and 4,500 miles east and west. It ranks second among the continents in size. A Continent of Great Things But it is when we penetrate the mysterious depths of this continent that our enthusiasm begins to kindle. What lakes and rivers! One of the pallbearers at Livingstone's funeral in Westminster Abbey was Henry M. Stanley, who, three years before, had rescued the famous missionary and explorer on the shore of Lake Tanganyika. A few days later Stanley found himself in the office of the London Daily Tele- graph. Mr. Edward Lawson, the editor, came in, and they fell to discussing Livingstone and the completion of his task. Lawson asked how much remained to be done. Stanley answered : ^'The outlet of Lake Tanganyika is undiscovered. We know nothing THE LURE OF AFRICA 17 scarcely, except what Speke has sketched out, of Lake Victoria. We do not even know whether it consists of one or many lakes, and therefore the sources of the Nile are still unknown. Moreover, the western half of the central African continent is still a white blank." "Do you think you can settle all this if we commis- sion you?" *'WhIle I live there will be something done. If I survive the time required to perform all the work, all shall be done." They reached an agreement on the spot, and a cable was at once dispatched to James Gordon Bennett of the New York Herald in these words : "Will you join the Daily Telegraph in sending Stanley out to Africa to complete the discoveries of Speke, Burton, and Liv- ingstone?" Back came the laconic reply, "Yes. Ben- nett." Who could have foreseen what great events for the world hinged on the chance meeting of Stan- ley and Lawson that day! The immediate result was the opening up of the lake and river system of cen- tral Africa. Victoria Nyanza was circumnavigated and established as the source of the Nile, and as the second greatest lake in the world. On the same trip Stanley discovered Albert Edward Nyanza and fin- ished the exploration of Tanganyika, which he had begun with Livingstone. It must have been a tender moment when he stood again at Ujiji where, five years before, he had found Livingstone, "looking pale and weary," and where he accosted him in the simple words, "Dr. Livingstone, I presume?" Stanley then i8 THE LURE OF AFRICA set out to solve the secrets of the Lualaba, that mysteri- ous stream which had so puzzled Livingstone, and near whose banks his career came to an end. The Lualaba proving to be nothing else than the Congo, Stanley de- termined to explore the river to its mouth. When he emerged at the coast after that perilous voyage of 1,500 miles, it may be said that Africa's veil was lifted. Some who read these pages will recall the profound interest which was stirred by Stanley's books and even how he appeared on the lecture platform, with the deep furrows on his face, and his strangely white hair. Yet the task he brought to a conclusion was begun by the Rornan Emperor Nero, who seems to have been the first " interest himself in discovering the sources of the Nile. How old and yet how new is Africa ! Against this historical background it is easy to sketch the remaining features of Africa's interior regions. To lakes Victoria Nyanza and Albert Edward Nyanza we add Albert Nyanza, as comprising the reservoirs of the Nile. Tanganyika, we now know, empties into the Congo. Add Lake Chad in the Sudan, which has no outlet, and which yet remains fresh, and Lake Nyasa, toward the east, which empties into the Zam- bezi, and you have the leading lakes of the continent. Of the four great rivers which penetrate the conti- nent, three take rise in the lake region of the cen- tral plateau, the Nile running north, the Congo run- ning west, and the Zambezi running south. The Niger, which ranks third in size, drains the vast territory lying to the north of the Gulf of Guinea, as far up THE LURE OF AFRICA 19 as the Sahara. Its immense size is indicated by the delta, which extends one hundred miles inland. Closely associated with the rivers are the great for- ests of Africa. Stanley's description of how, on his search for Emin Pasha, he hacked his way through the dark forest of the upper Congo to the lake region, is the classic on this subject. Stanley speaks of forest growth so dense that the rays of the sun never pene- trated to the ground. He describes how he found himself depressed, almost overwhelmed by these gloomy shades. Subsequent explorers say they have never found the forest as dense as that. They speak, however, of the luxuriance of the undergrowth and the tangle of creepers and parasitic vines which beset the traveler the moment he leaves the beaten path. The Congo basin throughout is heavily forested, as are the river bottoms elsewhere. Detached tropical wood- lands of great density and beauty are found on the mountain slopes in various parts of the continent. The world has yet to discover the commercial value of Africa's tropical forests. Red and brown mahogany is much sought after, but other woods as beautiful are unknown in Europe and America. Mr. Arthur Orner, the forester of the American Board at Mt. Silinda, Rhodesia, has listed over twenty trees whose wood takes on a beautiful color and finish. In the Mt. Silinda forest mahoganies grow ten and twelve feet in diam- eter and 200 feet tall. In general, however, it may be said that the African forests are thin affairs, the trees being far apart, 20 THE LURE OF AFRICA rather scraggly, and not heavily leaved. The tree- trunks, as a rule, are so crooked and knotty as to be the despair of industrial missionaries. The wood is also exceedingly hard. Travelers are often surprised to find that on the interior plateau, the continent offers almost no suggestion of the tropics, the landscape being much like that of North America or Europe. Palms are rarely seen, except along the streams. It is a mistake, however, to generalize too freely from particular journeys. Africa not only is of vast ex- tent, but it is divided almost equally by the equator, so that it presents much variety and contrast in its various parts. Even so careful a writer as Henry Drummond occasionally overlooks this fact. From his journeys in the Nyasa region he concludes that the characteristic animal life of tropical countries is rarely found here. "A man must be satisfied," he remarks, "if he sees a monkey once a month." Drummond should have traveled on the Congo or on the Zambezi, or even in Rhodesia, where mission stations are in- fested with these imps of the wood, and where every native corn-field has a watch-hut for keeping off the baboons. On the plateau, where the thin forest does not pre- vail, we have the grass country, the savannas for which Africa is famous, and where the big game is found. These prairie sections are extensive in the Sudan, the lake country, and in west Africa, south of the Congo belt. The growth of the coarse grass is an astonishment to travelers. One rides on horse- THE LURE OF AFRICA 21 back for miles, with the grass waving high above one's head. Lions, leopards, and other beasts hide in the tall grass, and have a way of emerging at inopportune moments. But the interior is not all prairie and forest. It may not be to the credit of a continent to possess deserts; yet we must think of Africa as peculiarly well-fur- nished in this respect. The Desert of Sahara easily outranks all the deserts of the world in size and in reputation. Its extent is enormous, stretching from the Atlantic to the Red Sea, and covering twenty degrees of latitude in the widest part. It should not be thought of as a monotonous waste of level sand. There are wide varieties in elevation, and extensive oases, supporting considerable population. A study of the map will reveal that in the little known Tibesti region there is a mountain range rising to an altitude of 8,000 feet, from which numerous streams run down into the burning sands. In the Sahara, say the desert tribesmen, is the "Garden of Allah." Un- doubtedly a book could be written on the majesties and beauties of the sand stretches of northern Africa. Undoubtedly another book could be written on the terrors of the region. Consider that the Nile, which traverses the Sahara for one thousand miles, has not changed the character of the country in any respect, except for a narrow fringe of arable land along either bank. Then there is the great Kalahari Desert in South Africa, which lay across the path of the early mis- 22 THE LURE OF AFRICA sionaries as an almost insuperable barrier, and which has hindered the development of German Southwest Africa in our day. As the North African states, with their fertile soil and equable climate, are shut off from central Africa by the Sahara on the south, so the South African region, still more favorable for European settlement, is shut off by the Kalahari Desert on the north. And how about mountains? Here alone Africa seems to fall short of full interest. Everything seems great except the mountain ranges. There is nothing comparable to the Himalayas, the Alps, the Canadian Rockies, the Andes. Yet we must not forget the Atlas range which zigzags across Morocco and Algeria and which boasts peaks 15,000 feet high, on which, ac- cording to the ancients, the heavens themselves rested ; or the tangled mass of mountains in Abyssinia, which some have ventured to call the Switzerland of Africa. Those who have vivid recollections of the mountain fighting in the Boer War will think the Drakensbergs in Natal are worthy of mention. Africa's characteristic mountains, however, are solitary peaks, like Kiliman- jaro in German East, which rises to an altitude of 19,321 ; Kenia in British East, 17,007 feet; Ruwenzori, near Albert Edward Nyanza, discovered by Stanley, 16,619 feet, and Mt. Cameroun on the west coast, 13,370 feet. These are volcanic cones which rise with snow-capped summits from the midst of tropical for- ests, an incomparably beautiful sight. In its broadest terms, Africa may be described as THE LURE OF AFRICA 23 consisting of a low-lying coast strip, a few hundred miles wide, hot and unhealthy; a mountain strip back from the coast, high and salubrious; and an interior plateau, diversified by mountains and hills, with an elevation averaging 3,000 feet, and a climate in which virile whites can live. Africa has been compared to an inverted saucer — the rim being the coast region, the projecting circle on which the saucer rests being the mountain ranges; and the slightly depressed center, the interior plateau. This figure implies a rather broad generalization, but it has its value. The mineral wealth of Africa passes all computa- tion. Johannesburg produces one third of the world's gold supply. Ninety per cent, of our diamonds come from Kimberly and the other mines of South Africa. In these treasures the continent stands supreme. When we add the copper deposits of the Katanga dis- trict, on the upper Congo, said to be the greatest in the world, the iron, the tin, and the coal of various sections, being uncovered by the prospector, we are inclined to agree with those who claim that the natural wealth of Africa is equal to that of any two of the other continents. What this means in the way of commercial development in coming years it is not diffi- cult to imagine. A Continent of Strange People Our real interest is to be in the people of Africa. What sort of beings inhabit these solitudes, range through these forests, paddle down these streams, and 24 THE LURE OF AFRICA hunt the wild beasts of the grass country? The best way will be to let the people disclose themselves as we proceed, section by section ; but a general classification is desirable at the outset. At first there appears to be a perfect jumble of tribes, only one characteristic standing out sharp and clear — they are all of dark color. Closer attention, however, develops marked dissimilarities; even the color breaks up into half a dozen different hues. Speaking roughly, we may say there are five fairly distinct peoples in Africa. First are the aborigines of the Mediterranean states; Lib- yans, the Romans called them; Berbers, we call them to-day. Egypt has always been a distinct part of Africa, but racially the native Egyptians belong to this Hamitic stock. Second, we place the Arabs and other Semitic folk who have come over from western Asia and who seem to think that, religiously, at least, the continent belongs to them. Third are the negroes proper, who dwell largely in the Sudan, but whose most characteristic development is on the Guinea coast, whence most of our American negroes came. Fourth are the widely scattered Bantu people, stretch- ing all the way from the lakes to the tip of the con- tinent. They are quite similar to the negroes, but must be classed together as a distinct language group. Historically they probably represent an invasion or a migration from the north in very ancient times. We shall have much to say about these Bantus. Finally, there are those strange people, the Pigmies of the Congo, and the Hottentots and Bushmen of the Cape. I- IN THE DESERT OF SAHARA THE LURE OF AFRICA 25 How shall we class them? The best way seems to be to lump them together as survivals of the most ancient of Africans, the bona fide aborigines, coming about as close to the primitive man-animal as any race on earth. These people are all ilitensely interesting. As to the languages, we find a bewildering array, and this constitutes one of the most difficult problems of mission work. Although the British and American Bible Societies have printed the Scriptures in one hundred African tongues, there remain 423 tongues without the Word of God. The accepted computation is 523 distinct languages and 320 dialects, making 843 varieties of speech. Was the Tower of Babel located somewhere in Africa? The population of Africa is variously stated, figures running from 100,000,000 to 180,000,000. Census officials have not abounded in the Congo forests and other interior sections, so that perhaps one man's guess is as good as another's. The latest governmental esti- mates appear to favor the more moderate figures. If we settle tentatively upon 130,000,000 we should not be far astray. Africa and the War A new interest in Africa has arisen because of the world war. Into four widely separated sections of the continent has the mighty struggle been projected. Not only has Europe presented to the natives the spec- tacle of warring '^Christian nations," but the natives themselves have been drawn into the conflict, so that 26 THE LURE OF AFRICA we have tribe arrayed against tribe in the service of their masters. Imagine Zulus from the British province of Natal fighting their brethren i,8oo miles to the north, merely because they happen to live under the German flag ! It is to the credit of the African that his confidence in the white man and the white man's re- ligion has not been destroyed through this experience. While mission work for the most part has gone on un- diminished, the change of control in the Cameroun from German to French has proved embarrassing in several ways, especially in the requirement that the French language shall be substituted for the German in mission schools. In German East the work of the German missionaries has been suspended, owing to the fact that the fighting has been carried into every corner of the colony. In German Southwest, also, the work has been brought to a standstill. Africa of the present day claims every human interest as her own — even the saddest. A Continent of Great Adventurers Africa has lured the stalwart souls of many ages. The Portuguese navigators were great discoverers and builders of civilization because they were great ad- venturers. They had a sublime trust in themselves and also in God, according to their light. They were great men. Let this fact lay hold upon us at the very out- set. Africa beckons the great. The modern explorers, like Speke, Grant, Stanley, and Cameron, form a worthy succession. They have not been surpassed in THE LURE OF AFRICA 27 their field. To these add the adventurers in government and industry, of whom Cecil Rhodes is the king. They have not been above criticism. That is putting it rather mildly. But they were men of colossal nerve and dar- ing; and they have accomplished wonders. Of late the sportsman is having his turn with Africa. What stories they tell, what books they have written, what amazing creatures they have placed in our museums ! The same type again — from Roosevelt to Rains ford and Stewart Edward White. The greatest adventurers of all are the missionaries. Have you ever considered the fact of the large number of really great missionaries, missionaries whose lives are upon our shelves, who felt the lure of this con- tinent? Moffat, Livingstone, Mackenzie, Grout, Coil- lard, Hannington, Stewart, Mackay, Pilkington, Laws, Grenfell, Good, Lapsley, Mary Slessor — what a list! Some of these men were explorers and founders of states as well as preachers of the Word. They had just one life to live and they chose Africa. Why was it? Because the lure of the divine quest laid its spell upon them. Their idea was that Africa, the continent of the storied past, the continent of beauty, the con- tinent of barbarism and wo, should be the continent of Christ. He who studies Africa should study in the spirit of a great adventure. STRONGHOLDS OF MOHAMMEDANISM o STRONGHOLDS OF MOHAMMEDANISM On March 30, 1912, the sultan of Morocco, sitting in his capital at Fez, signed the treaty which estab- lished the power of France throughout his nation. Since then the tricolor has waved over the land of the Moors from the ports of the Atlantic to the high peaks of the Atlas range. On October 15, 19 12, Mohammed V, sultan of Trukey, sitting in his palace on the Bosporus, signed the treaty of Lausanne, which relinquished to Italy the vilayet of Tripoli. To-day the red, white, and green banner floats over this immense area from the Ben- ghazi to Fezzan. In December, 1914, on the occasion of the entry of Turkey into the war on the side of the Central Powers, Great Britain deposed the khedive of Egypt, who was ruling in the name of the Turkish sultan, and who had become overfond of that connection. She placed on the throne, with the title of sultan, Hussein, an uncle of the former khedive, and formally declared Egypt to be a protectorate of Great Britain. Thus within five years Mohammedanism has lost control of the three states which remained to it in North Africa. Should Turkey some day forfeit her 31 32 THE LURE OF AFRICA independence — and there are those who think she has done so already — not a self-governing country will be left of all the lands once ruled by the followers of the Arabian prophet. These are days of the rapid dis- integration of Mohammedanism as a political power. It would be a serious mistake, however, for us to as- sume that Islam is everywhere losing her grip upon the thought and life of the people. In Persia, in India, and even in Turkey it may be true, but alas! not in Africa. The tier of states which are washed by the Mediterranean — Morocco, Algeria, Tripoli, Egypt — is the stronghold of the Mohammedan faith. For twelve centuries this rival religion has been entrenched throughout this region, and it shows but slight evi- dences of yielding to-day. On the contrary, it is from the North African states as a base that Islam is carry- ing on her active missionary propaganda throughout the Sudan and beyond. How all this came to be is a lesson of first importance to every Christian. When Christianity Dominated North Africa If we could go back to the days of the saintly Augustine, and could visit Alexandria, Cyrene, Car- thage, Hippo, and the other cities of the coast, we would say, "Christianity is so strongly established in this region that its overthrow is inconceivable." We would find hundreds of bishoprics, great churches with their endowments, extensive monasteries, clergy of various ranks, impressive rituals, fasts and feasts in great abundance, and an all-around development of church MOHAMMEDAN STRONGHOLDS 33 service and life. Alexandria in the fifth century was one of the great capitals of the empire. The ancient Caesareum, converted into a church, was one of the noblest structures in the city, being marked by two obelisks, known as Cleopatra's Needles. We read that there were no less than 600 monasteries in the neighborhood of Alexandria. Egypt for centuries was the most splendid seat of oriental Christianity. In North Africa proper, that is, the coast region aside from Egypt and Cyrenaica, the situation was somewhat different. In this vast domain, of which Carthage was the capital, Christianity was strong in leadership and fairly strong in numbers; but it pos- sessed no such powerful organization as most writers have supposed. We read of six church provinces be- ing formed in the reign of Diocletian (284-305), not- withstanding his fierce edicts against Christianity and the resulting persecutions. In the year 411 a con- ference was called at Carthage over doctrinal difficul- ties, attended by more than 500 bishops. These bishops, however, were hardly more than pastors, since in Augustine's time the parishes numbered a little over 500. Augustine, himself, if we may judge from one of his sermons, presided over about a dozen priests and deacons. The strength of the church in North Africa was primarily the strength of tower- ing personalities, like Tertullian, Cyprian, and Augus- tine, to whom the Roman world went to school. Under their leadership considerable progress was made in the conversion from heathenism of the Berber tribes; 34 THE LURE OF AFRICA but these tribes, never loyal to Rome, were not over- zealous in behalf of the Roman Church. Many of these peoples had strong leanings toward Judaism. Yet, after due allowance is made for these facts, when we consider the extent of the North African church, and especially when we take in view the splendor of the establishment in Egypt, it would seem that Chris- tianity should have been able to withstand any as- saults, from within or without. As a matter of fact, it went down with a crash before the Mohammedan invaders. The Mohammedan Invasion The man primarily responsible for the subjugation of North Africa and for the annihilation of the church boasted the name of Amr-ibn-ei-Asi. In spite of his name this man was no "hyphenate.'* He was an Arab of the most fanatical brand, knowing but one al- legiance — the faith of Islam. Back of him towered the personality of Mohammed, dreamer, fanatic, despot, only six years in his grave, but raging like a simoom from the desert in the souls of his lieutenants. There can be no more striking commentary upon the power of this movement which burst upon the world from the heart of Arabia, than the fact that Amr-ibn-el-Asi invaded Egypt in 640 A. D. with a force of only 4,000 men. Apparently one Arab was equal to ten Egyptians. In fact, Alexandria surrendered without a struggle, and shortly the entire Nile valley was in the possession of the invaders. There followed an extensive immi- MOHAMMEDAN STRONGHOLDS 35 gration from Arabia, and in an almost incredibly short space of time, the proud structure of Roman civiliza- tion and Christian institutions became a thing of the past. The loss of the collection of ancient manu- scripts in the great library of Alexandria, the largest in the ancient world, is everywhere recognized by scholars as one of the tragedies of history. The story goes that Amr consulted Omar, the caliph, as to what he should do with the books, and Omar replied, "If these writings of the Greeks agree with the book of God, they are useless and need not be preserved; if they disagree, they are pernicious and ought to be destroyed." Whereupon, it is stated, "the rolls were distributed among the 4,000 baths of the city, and it took six months to burn them all." The story is pic- turesque, and in a way characteristic ; but since it is of doubtful validity it should not be used to the discredit of Islam.^ The rapidity of the Mohammedan movement in its sweep westward is highly significant. A succession of conquerors came to the front — their names need not bother us — and by 66S what is now Tripoli was a Moslem state. Algeria went down with little resistance and the Arab hordes swept onward to the Pillars of Hercules. The story is told that Akba, who raided Morocco, rode his horse far out into the surf and cried, "Great God, if I were not stopped by this raging sea, I would go to the nations of the west, preaching the 1 The grounds on which this story is discredited are set forth con- vincingly by W. F. Adeney in his The Greek and Eastern Churches. 36 TPE LURE OF AFRICA unity of thy name and putting to the sword those who would not submit." This is rather too melodramatic to be true, but it suggests the fierce impetuosity which everywhere characterized the North African invasion. The year 711 is usually given as the date when the entire north coast was in the hands of the invaders. In the same year Tarik, a Berber prince, who had been converted to Islam, landed at Gibraltar with 13,000 men and commenced the invasion of Europe. In all this history we are to bear in mind that Christianity went down as completely as did Roman government and law. To the Arab conquerors, as also to many of the Berber tribes, the two were bound up in the same bundle. It is quite conceivable that the church might have maintained herself under a Moslem government; but this was not to be. The plain fact is that Christianity was wiped out in North Africa, and in the Nile valley remained only in two struggling and degenerate branches of the church. Islam glories in this fact to-day and is not averse to throwing it in the face of the Christian who seeks to maintain the superiority of his religion. Why Christianity Was Overthrown As Christians we should have a clear philosophy of the failure of the North African branch of Chris- tianity, so that we may help save our religion from similar calamities in the future. Probably the lesson had to be demonstrated at some time, in some place, for the benefit of the church universal, and especially MOHAMMEDAN STRONGHOLDS 37 for those sections of the church which are emerging out of paganism. A diagnosis of the situation reveals four fatal de- fects in North African Christianity. In the first place the North African church was a disputing church. A large part of its time was taken up with squabbles over doctrinal matters of a more or less technical nature. Its leaders were more given to intellectual pride than to humble-mindedness. In those days what an African bishop didn't know about the nature of the Supreme Being an angel wouldn't care to inquire into. Chris- tianity was, in the main, an intellectual proposition. Orthodoxy, of the knife-edge variety, was the supreme end of man. From this condition it was but a step to the use of physical force. It is ominous to read that in the early days of struggle between Christianity and heathenism, mobs of monks gathered to destroy the pagan temples. One of these mobs, instigated by Cyril, the patriarch of Alexandria, stripped and tore to pieces the beautiful Neo-Platonic philosopher and priestess, Hypatia, immortalized by Charles Kingsley. It is still more ominous to find that heathenism was finally crushed out, or supposed to be, by governmental edict. In the second place, the church was a divided church. This was an inevitable outcome of the bitter con- troversies. Parties sprang up like weeds, each one calling the other heretics. The dominant faction would brutally persecute its fellow Christians. As early as Augustine's time the impression made upon the world was of a split Christianity, since nearly half of the 38 THE LURE OF AFRICA 500 bishops who met at Carthage were in the opposition, being known as Donatists. Thus the church was hopelessly weakened, its energy being dissipated in factional strife rather than against the common foe. How stupid and how wicked it all looks to us a thousand years after ! Perhaps some of our differences to-day will appear stupid and wicked to later genera- tions. The North African church, furthermore, was a formal, rather than a vital church. The glorious soul- life, the personal connection with God through prayer, and with man through service, so characteristic of the early Christians, became buried under an elaborate system of rites and ceremonies. Christianity was a performance, not a life. Even the rites of heathen temples, with not a few of their degrading super- stitions, gained a foothold among the members of the church of Christ. What with their images and their relics, there was little to choose between them and some of the heathen devotees. It goes without saying, as our fourth count, that this church was a non-missionary church. Back from the coast lived native tribes steeped in idolatry and given over to all the base practises of paganism. Yet the African Christians cared not. Their interest was in orthodoxy, not in men. Their thought was turned in upon themselves. The church had ceased to be an army for spiritual conquest, and had become a debating society. Like some churches to-day it had turned its back upon a perishing world. Zealous for MOHAMMEDAN STRONGHOLDS 39 the truth, it yet denied the fundamental principle of our religion. It became unorthodox in the sphere where orthodoxy involved the very life of the church. Such is our diagnosis. Intellectual pride, party strife, formalism, self-engrossment — these all spell death to organized religion in any age. History contains no greater lesson than this. Twelve Centuries After "By their fruits ;ye shall know them." Let us now take a look at Mohammedanism as it has actually worked out in this region. We have spoken unspar- ingly of the faults of the North African branch of the Christian church ; let us deal as frankly with the system which took its place. Mohammedanism is a religion of the desert. It arose in the midst of Arabian sands, was developed by Bedouin tribes, and to-day boasts the place of its origin as the religious center of the world. Mohamme- danism has in it both the mystery and the hardness of the desert. On the one hand, it allures; on the other, it repels. It emphasizes the unity of God, but it is the unity of an arbitrary, cruel sovereign, like a Bedouin chief. Need we wonder if the fruitage of this religion suggests the desert also ? The first effects of Islam in North Africa were un- doubtedly beneficent. It came like a breath of life upon a decaying civilization. Commerce was revived, the arts and sciences were quickened. We must not for- get that civilization owes a large debt to Arabia for 40 THE LURE OF AFRICA mathematics and astronomy. North Africa naturally shared in the revival of culture which followed in the wake of the Saracen armies. Religiously, this is to be noted : the use of images and pictures was ruled out of worship as smacking of idolatry, and a simple ser- vice of prayer in the mosque took the place of the barren ritual of the church. The heathen tribes were sought out, and their idolatry, so offensive to the Mo- hammedan, became a thing of the past. This may have been done with a high hand ; but we must put it over against the indifference of the church. Having admitted all this, we have said about all that can be said in favor of the new regime. The thing began to work out in Africa just as it has in other parts of the world. When the first burst of enthusiasm was over, the inherent defects of the system, intellectually and morally, came to the front. A pure and stern monotheism did not prevent its theology from being fatalistic to the core. Man is the victim of inexorable fate. This served to paralyze human energy. There was no room for freedom or for growth in Moham- med's scheme. The word Islam means submission, the submission of the slave. By the same process shackles were placed on the human mind. Truth was fossilized. The Koran became a dead weight upon the intellectual development of the mass of the people in all Moslem lands. Islam is a book religion in the narrowest sense of the word, an affair of statutes and forms. To make matters worse, many of these statutes were guides to evil rather than to good. It is not necessary MOHAMMEDAN STRONGHOLDS 41 in a book of this kind to give a detailed description of Mohammedan theology and life; but certain ethical defects are so notorious that they cannot be passed by. Polygamy, easy divorce, concubinage, the seclusion of women, the appeal of the sensual, slavery, in- tolerance, cruelty, these are some of the things which became ingrafted upon North African life when the Arabs took possession. They have borne their deadly fruits in personal character and social custom. We think of North Africa to-day as a blighted land, one of the most backward sections of the world, a mill- stone upon the neck of civilization. Before the Great War, thousands of American trav- elers visited the North African ports every winter in connection with the Mediterranean trip, and the tales they brought of ignorance, sloth, dirt, and disease are not challenged by Mohammedan writers. E. Alexander Powell, once connected with the United States con- sular service in Egypt, describes, in his informing and entertaining book, The Last Frontier, the typical Moor in vigorous fashion : **The town Moor is sullen, sus- picious of all strangers, vacillating; the pride, but none of the energy of his ancestors remains. In his youth he is licentious in his acts ; in his old age he is licentious in his thoughts. He is abominably lazy. He never runs if he can walk; he never walks if he can stand still; he never stands if he can sit; he never sits if he can lie down. The only thing he puts any energy into is his talking; he believes that nothing can be done really well without a hullabaloo." In another place 42 THE LURE OF AFRICA Mr. Powell speaks of the Moors as probably the most licentious race in the world. "Compared to them, the inhabitants of Sodom and Gomorrah were positively prudish." ^ In Southern Algeria live the Ouled-Nails, famed for the rare beauty of the women and for the heartless fashion in which the girls are sold into lives of shame until such time as they can bring a sufficient dowry to their expectant husbands. As one writer puts it, these beautiful creatures "from earliest childhood are trained for a life of indifferent virtue as a horse is trained for the show ring." All this is supposed to be en- tirely consistent with religion. Another Moslem tribe, or conglomeration of tribes, known as the Kabyles, has adopted the pagan custom by which matrimony is made a commercial affair. Mr. Powell states : "A fine upstanding Kabyle maiden of fifteen or there- abouts, with the lines of a thoroughbred, the profile of a cameo, and a skin the color of a bronze statue, will fetch her parents anywhere from eighty to three hundred dollars."' These are not pleasant facts, but they must be known if we are to have an intelligent idea of the needs of this part of the world. Fortunately the condition of women is not so bad in all sections ; but everywhere the wives, the mothers, and the daughters, by that abominable system, invented by Mohammed himself, are kept in rigid seclusion, ^ E. Alexander Powell, The Last Frontier, pp. 37, 38. 2 lUd., p. 66. MOHAMMEDAN STRONGHOLDS 43 living practically the life of prisoners. Even Moslem writers are beginning to realize the pernicious effects of this custom, particularly in keeping half of the com- munity in ignorance and degradation. As to governmental and social conditions, Ameri- cans had their first look into North Africa in connec- tion with the little war of 1801 in which, for a time, the Stars and Stripes floated over the fortress of Derna on the Tripoli coast. When the United States frigate Philadelphia ran aground in the harbor of Tripoh, she was captured by the natives and her crew enslaved. At that time Americans learned more about the Moslems of North Africa than all the books had taught them. Italy now rules over Tripoli, and France over Tunis, Algeria, and Morocco, and outward con- ditions have somewhat improved. But down below we find the same old Mohammedanism as in the days of the caliph Omar. An exceedingly unfortunate condition exists in con- nection with public health. One missionary writes, "Immorality and frequency of divorce, and the total lack of hygiene, combined with superstitious practises, have sapped the brains and constitutions of quite eighty per cent, of the children." It is stated on good authority that the natives of Algeria are, with few exceptions, tainted with syphilis. Smallpox and other virulent dis- eases abound, and the superstitions of the people are such that little can be done to prevent the spread of such plagues. Even in Egypt, after thirty years of British occupancy, astonishing figures are given as 44 THE LURE OF AFRICA to infant mortality. A recent government report states that over half the children die before they are five years old. Whatever North Africa may desire for itself, it is a region which needs to be cleaned up for the benefit of the rest of the world. Such is the working out of Mohammed's religion in a region where it has had full swing for a thousand years. Lord Cromer, for many years British agent and consul-general in Egypt, is not oversanguine as to what can be done by Christianity in this part of the world; but as for Islam, he admits the case is hope- less. His position is that Islam is incapable of ref- ormation. A reformed Islam would not be Islam at all. Where, then, is the hope of North Africa? Christian Survivals Naturally we turn first to those branches of the ancient church which have survived, although im- mersed in Mohammedan civilization. Are they dead branches, or can they be revived and become a saving element in African society? Before the Mohammedan invasion, the Egyptian, or Coptic Church, as it came to be called, had fallen out with the church at large in connection with the Monophysite controversy. This was a highly technical discussion over the relation of the human to the divine in the nature of Christ, the Monophysites holding to a single nature in which the human element appeared to be ruled out. The Coptic bishops favored this view, and no end of trouble arose on that account. At the MOHAMMEDAN STRONGHOLDS 45 time of the Mohammedan invasion the orthodox party was making it so hot for the bishops that the coming of the Arabs was actually welcomed as a re- lief. The spectacle of this ancient church standing in with these conquerors of its country and the enemies of its faith is humiliating in the extreme. It was re- warded by a temporary period of toleration, but also by an unusual degree of degradation. Principal Adeney puts the matter mildly when he says of the Coptic Church : "With all its endowments it never flourished, never grew. It has remained to this day a phantom church, with offices, but without functions." Yet we recall that these Copts are the direct descen- dants of the men who built the pyramids and who, when the rest of the world was asleep, developed a civilization which has been the wonder of the ages. Their church, too, has suffered much persecution — possibly more than any other body except the Ar- menians. It has cost them dearly to hold out. The pressure of Islam has reduced the Coptic membership from several millions to less than 700,000. A ray of hope just now is found in the fact that they want their children educated and that they are sending them in large numbers to mission schools. These children will eventually be heard from. The question as to the possibilities of revival in a decadent nation of long standing is a very difficult one. History has not given her final answer to this question. It remains to see what the grace of God can accomplish, when Christian people of other lands are willing to turn in and help. 46 THE LURE OF AFRICA Then there is the Httle Abyssinian Church — a most interesting survival. Buried in the mountains of the easternmost projection of the continent, the Abys- sinians have maintained themselves all these centuries against Mohammedan and heathen pressure. During most of this time, they have been shut off from all con- tact with other Christian bodies. That Abyssinia has kept the faith at all is to her credit. There is a strong admixture of Jewish elements in the life of this church, since it holds to circumcision, distinctions between clean and unclean food, and the observance of the seventh day. Adeney gives us an interesting pic- ture of the worship of the Abyssinians. "There are prayers and psalms and one lesson, all shouted rather than intoned or merely read. The mass begins with a shout of hallelujah, and concludes with a procession of four or five crosses, to an accompaniment of drums, cymbals, and incense, carried round the church quite thirty times." The Church of England undertook missionary work among these mountain people in 1829, but their mis- sionaries were driven out by the intolerant priests. At present there is only one small mission station in the country, under Swedish auspices. Yet one cannot rid himself of the idea that some day Abyssinia will be reached and that her sturdy people will have a hand in the redemption of Africa. Rallying Points of Christianity From this checkered history of the church in North MOHAMMEDAN STRONGHOLDS 47 Africa we come now to the era of modern missions. It fell to the lot of the United Presbyterian Church of North America to be the pioneer in missionary efforts among the Copts and Moslems of the Nile valley, and right nobly has this comparatively small body risen to the task. In Cairo and in Assiut the United Presbyterian Board of Foreign Missions maintains an array of in- stitutions which fairly bewilders the tourist. It is a typical development of higher educational work on the mission field. In the midst of the day-school for boys and girls, the various boarding or high schools, and the theological seminary, there stand out conspicu- ously two colleges, which should be known and honored in all our churches, the Asslut College for young men and the Cairo College for young women. The former is a well-established Institution, having been organized In 1865. It has sent over one hundred men into the Christian ministry, twenty into medicine, prepared numerous teachers, and In less degree stocked all the professions and pursuits. The college occupies a campus of eleven acres In one of the choicest spots In Egypt. It is a credit to Christianity, a center of mighty influence for good. The college for young women at Cairo draws its students from the most Influential families of Cairo and Egypt. A large number of them are daughters of pashas and beys and the most eminent men in ofli- cial and social life. Both British and Egyptian officials place a high value upon this college, as a contribution 48 THE LURE OF AFRICA MEDITERRANEAN SEA THE UNITED PRE;5BTTER1AN ''^ MISSION TIELD IN EGYPT Population Our Share ^,000, 000 Number of Cities and The 20a (*)dot3 ^ Indicate Villages Hola.- \n(, Christian Services The 2.6 7? Oaot^ Indicate Vi II idges ythcrc Ho Services are held to the social, in- tellectual, and moral regenera- tion of the land. One writer speaks of it as "t h e greatest asset for the in- troduction and dissemination of Christian ideals and influ- ences in Egypt." Already its graduates are reshaping the home life of this ancient land. Dr. Charles R.Watson, well known in mis- sionary circles as the secretary of the United Presbyterian Board and as a speaker in con- ventions, has recently re- THE UNITED PRESBYTERIAN ISIISSION FIELD EGYPT IN MOHAMMEDAN STRONGHOLDS 49 signed the secretaryship that he may devote himself, as president, to the building of a union Christian uni- versity in Cairo, an institution of the highest grade, which shall become the keystone to the educational arch of the Nile country. Already considerable sums have been contributed for this purpose. The leading Mohammedan university, if we may so speak of it, is located at Cairo, in the famous El Azhar mosque. Here not less than 10,000 youths, gathered from the whole Moslem world, assemble each year to study the tenets of Islam in the expectation of becoming teachers and preachers of the faith. It is appropriate that in this very city Christianity should establish a seat of the highest learning. What Robert College has been to Turkey and the Balkan states, and what the Syrian Protestant College of Beirut has been to Syria, this union university should be to the land of the Pharaohs. There is an excellent medical work at Tanta, in the Nile delta, and at Assiut, and of course an extensive evangelistic enterprise all up and down the valley. A boat is maintained on the Nile, in which the mis- sionaries live and itinerate. The figures in this depart- ment are good — a church membership of 13,034, and yearly additions of a thousand. In 19 15 the native church contributed $42,931 for the salaries of African pastors and the support of evangelistic and local church work, not counting the support of educational and medical work. There are 214 Sunday-schools, with almost 17,000 pupils. 50 THE LURE OF AFRICA Mr. George Innes, a Philadelphia business man, who recently visited Cairo, sent this description of one of the converts from Islam. It is prophetic of great things to come. "One of the strong preachers to this crowd is Mikhail Monsoor. He was an Azhar graduate; sat and rocked back and forth on the floor for twelve years ; got his diploma and struck out. He hadn't seen a Bible, but he did know the Koran, and with that knowledge he started out to challenge Christianity. He went to an Egyptian Christian preacher, a wise man, wise with his Master's wisdom, who never enjoined arguing, but always prayer and witnessing. He gave Mikhail a Bible and bade him take it home, read it and pray. Mikhail told me he read it, was interested but not converted until he came to read of Christ's life, and when he read that matchless and perfect life, he saw for the first time his own imperfect life, and, no longer a believer in Islam, became Christ's. He's a powerful preacher. The teachers and students of the Azhar flock to his meetings. Twenty of the sheiks of the Azhar University were turned away to-night; couldn't get in; no room. For years he has kept this up, and the continued hammer is making great cracks in the walls of Islam in Egypt and all the Moslem world." Perhaps no missionary leader is better known than Dr. Samuel M. Zwemer, famous for his Arabian work, his many books, and his eloquent addresses on the missionary platform. Let us remember with gratitude MOHAMMEDAN STRONGHOLDS 51 that Dr. Zwemer is now located at Cairo, where he is chairman of the editorial committee of the Nile Mis- sion Press. This extensive printing establishment and Christian literature bureau is sending out an immense quantity of leaflets and books calculated to win the attention of Moslem readers. This agency should be ranked with the school and the hospital in the solution of Africans greatest religious problem. Taking everything into consideration, we may say Christianity has made a splendid new start in Egypt. Side by side with the American workers, the Church Missionary Society of England conducts a strong work at Cairo and other centers in the medical, educational, evangelistic, and publication fields. It has a force of some twenty-five persons, among whom Canon W. H. T. Gairdner is well known. Other English societies at work are the Egypt General Mission and the North Africa Mission. The vital New Testament type of our religion is making itself felt up and down the Nile in a way to give great encouragement. More than that, the missionary enterprise in Egypt must become a model for the other sections of the coast. The Door With a Thousand Dents There remains the vast area covered by Tripoli, Tunis, Algeria, and Morocco. What has been done to reach the 14,000,000 Moslems in these states? For the most part the mission boards have fought shy of this whole region. Mr. Freese, of the Methodist Episcopal Board of Foreign Missions, is attempting a 52 THE LURE OF AFRICA heroic work under trying conditions in Algeria and Tunis; and the French Baptists have recently taken hold at certain points. There are less than 200 mis- sionaries, all told, in this section of Africa; but no North African church has been formed and no sta- tistics are given out. Practically we may regard it as an unoccupied field, a challenge not taken up by the church. There is one bright spot, however, which we are thankful to mention. On one of the narrow, dark streets in Algiers is a house whose front has been bat- tered by many a stone. The door alone is said to con- tain a thousand dents. This is the home of Miss Lilias Trotter, a heroine, if God ever made one. Here she lives and here she manages the work of the "Algerian Band," an organization which she established in 1888, and which she has supported by her own efforts, aided by friends in England and America. The dents in the door are the contributions of the natives, little marks of attention which rabble mobs have bestowed upon her. No wonder she calls her home her *'battle- field." Her specialty is Arab boys, whom she gathers into schools at Algiers and in some eight other places, although, of course, she does not overlook the girls and adult Moslems. Miss Trotter is winning out. The stones do not fly quite so frequently as of yore, neighbors are becom- ing friendly, her children are growing up into fine men and women, hopeful converts are being made. So she works on with her little band of helpers, in the midst MOHAMMEDAN STRONGHOLDS 53 of the filth, disease, ignorance, bigotry, and violence of the Algerian coast towns. She is a woman of literary gifts, rare artistic ability, undaunted courage, unlimited common sense, and a faith like an apostle's. Miss Trotter was the favorite pupil of John Ruskin. When she went to Africa, Ruskin remarked to a friend, 'T have lost the one pupil I had of real talent. She has decided to throw away her life teaching Arabs." Sobering Considerations As we leave this section of the continent, let us re- mind ourselves of the stupendousness of the task. This is the stronghold of Mohammedanism. This is where ancient Christianity made a frightful mess of things. This is where modern, evangelical Christianity has barely begun to work. We are not likely to overstate the difficulties. Certainly the workers on the ground are not. As President R. S. McClenahan, of Assiut College, once put it, "We are asking the proudest man in the world (the Moslem) to accept a religion which he hates from a man whom he despises.'* We must remember that, with rare exceptions, Moslems have never been brought into contact with vital Christianity. The Christianity which makes love its central truth and motive is unknown to them. Their idea of the religion which we offer is gained from the violence of the crusaders, from the quarreling churches of North Africa, from the decadent oriental churches of to-day. What a difference there might have been to 54 THE LURE OF AFRICA the world if Mohammed himself had ever come into contact with one genuine Christian ! Remember also the resisting power of Islam. Re- member the dents in Miss Trotter's door. To this day Morocco has the death penalty for those who are con- verted from Islam to Christianity. With these things in mind, think of yourself in the position of a North African missionary. Can you imagine a more difficult task? As a Christian, what is your attitude toward this part of the world? What strategy on the part of the churches do you advocate? The globe-trotter re- turns from North Africa and nonchalantly remarks, "Christianity will never take this stronghold of Islam." Shall we accept his verdict? " In tKe^"wiUe.rne;S3 ^liall 'vvate473 Lreak out g^tlnt^^f^^/- and streams in i he^ cloge>rt ' MOHAMMEDANISM ON THE MARCH ALGERIAN BOYS Ill MOHAMMEDANISM ON THE MARCH The region lying immediately south of the Sahara, some 700 miles wide, and stretching from the At- lantic to the Red Sea, a distance of 4,000 miles, is known as the Sudan. Since the Anglo-French agree- ment of 1904, the eastern section is called the Egyp- tian Sudan, the western section (apart from certain maritime colonies) is known as the French Sudan. This vast area, for the most part fertile and arable, is inhabited by a large number of warlike tribes. The population is placed by some authorities as high as 40,000,000. The name comes from an Arab word meaning "the country of the blacks." We associate this region with the uprisings of the Mahdi, who claimed to be the second Mohammed, appointed by Allah for the extermination of the infidels ; the exploits of Emin Pasha, who was rescued in so dramatic a fashion by Stanley; the tragic death of General Gor- don; and with the brilliant military achievements which brought Kitchener his fame. Of late the Sudan has come into prominence in religious circles because of the rapid advance of Mohammedanism. Through- out this region in recent years Mohammedan "mis- sionaries" have been exceedingly active, annexing tribe 57 58 THE LURE OF AFRICA after tribe, until now by far the larger part of the Sudan has been preempted for that faith. These tribes might have been won to Christianity had our missionaries been on hand to present the message. But Christianity was conspicuously absent, while Islam was on the ground in the persons of multitudes of traders on fire with fanatic zeal. According to Mo- hammedan ideas, every Moslem is a missionary. Be he prince or slave, sailor or merchant, wherever he goes he is expected to proclaim his religion. In Africa as in no other part of the world the Moslem approaches this lofty ideal. He is a missionary, not as one sent out by a society or board, such as we have in Christian lands, but as one impelled by zeal for the Prophet of God. The fact that to-day the larger part of the Sudan is Mohammedan ground attests the power of a witnessing faith. In the opinion of many missionary leaders the Mo- hammedan advance in central Africa constitutes the greatest crisis before the Christian churches to-day. The World's Missionary Conference at Edinburgh, in 1910, after reviewing the situation in every land, called particular attention to what is going on in the heart of Africa. "The absorption of native races into Islam is proceeding rapidly and continuously in practically all parts of the continent." The conference at Luck- now, India, called in 191 1 to consider exclusively Moslem problems, issued definite suggestions for the meeting of this crisis. A chain of mission stations across Africa was proposed for the holding back of \ ISLAM ON THE MARCH 59 the Moslem advance, and the mission boards were called upon to unite their efforts in such a movement. Immediate, concerted action they considered essential if the situation is to be saved. Other authorities might be quoted, all urging the critical nature of this Mo- hammedan drive. The Rev. William J. W. Roome, writing in The International Review of Missions,^ maintains that the whole strategy of missions in Africa should be viewed in relation to Islam. In this chapter we are to study the facts of the case, inquire into the causes, and consider certain remedies. The Mohammedan Hinterland We are to remember that Islam in Africa has al- ways had its hinterland. Hardly had the Arabs estab- lished themselves in the coast region before they be- gan pushing into the interior. In the Sahara they naturally found themselves much at home, and being born traders they were not slow to press into the popu- lated sections and annex the people, possibly 800,000 of them, to their religion and their civilization. They appear to have introduced the camel into this region; at any rate, they soon opened up caravan routes from the interior to the various coast cities and made large use of the Nile for reaching the eastern Sudan. When the Portuguese navigators explored the east coast in the fifteenth century, they found rich Arab cities along the coast as far south as Sofala, near the mouths ^W. J. W. Roome, "Strategic Lines of Christian Missions in Africa," The International Review of Missions, July, 19 16. 6o THE LURE OF AFRICA of the Zambezi. These coast cities were undoubtedly built by immigrants from across the Red Sea. A century earlier the Arabs had crossed the Sudan and had established themselves in Kordofan, Darfur, Wadai, and other states. From all these centers they carried on an extensive trade in the twin industries, ivory and slaves, which everywhere have brought such wo to the Africans. In the western Sudan the Moslems seem to have made their impression even before they were estab- lished in the east. On the upper waters of the Niger there was a remarkable tribe, with a long line of kings, and maintaining a capital, known as the Songhai. This tribe was converted to Islam about loio. The Song- hai, in turn, converted the great Fula tribe, which oc- cupied the region south of Timbuktu. This was in the twelfth or thirteenth century. The Songhai also won over the Mandingos of Senegambia on the west coast. The Fulas, becoming aggressive, invaded the region to the east of the Niger, subduing and converting the Hausa people, who, as traders, are a mighty factor in spreading Islam to-day. So it went on, until Moham- medanism dominated not less than one third of the people of the continent. All this happened from 900 to 300 years ago. At the very time when the crusaders of Europe were endeavoring to wrest the original seats of Christianity from the Moslems, the Moslems were quietly taking possession of the Sudan. Writers and speakers who dwell upon the peril of Islam in Africa often overlook this history of unchecked conquest, ISLAM ON THE MARCH 6i which runs back so many centuries. Islam is no new thing to the tribes north of the Congo. The New Advance The startHng thing in the situation is the new re- ligious impetus which has come to the Arabs and to the converted tribes, as the result of modern condi- tions. Having remained quiescent for some three cen- turies, the hosts of Islam once more are on the march. The remaining sections Ox the Sudan are being won over, tribe by tribe, and Mohammedan missionaries are pressing southward into the Congo country and along the two coasts. Nigeria, one of the richest and most populous sections of the continent, is now two- thirds Mohammedan. The Swahili, the dominant tribe in British East Africa, are becoming Mohamme- dan. The Swahili, being the artisans of East Africa, are in great demand in the interior. They carry their religion wherever they go. In German East Africa one sixth of the population has recently become Mo- hammedan. Even in Nyasaland, below German East, not less than 50,000 natives have lately been converted to Islam. To make matters worse we are learning now of Christian villages in west Africa which, under the pressure of Mohammedan neighbors, have deserted Christ and gone over to the rival faith. Until the facts were made known at the Edinburgh Conference, Christian people had no idea of this new Mohammedan peril. They are beginning now to real- ize that all central Africa is threatened, that this is 62 THE LURE OF AFRICA not a matter of the neglect of the church five hundred years ago, but of the neglect of the church to-day. The missionary movement of the church had not begun or even been dreamed of when Islam won her initial victories in the Sudan ; but this new advance finds the churches supposedly girded for the task of winning the world. Surely we must move quickly if we are to save the situation in central Africa. How Islam Gets Its Chance I have spoken of modern conditions as favoring the new aggression of Mohammedanism. What are these conditions? Strange as it may seem, the suppression of the African slave trade has proved to be a prominent factor in the process. It is one of the paradoxes of history that the putting down of the traffic in slaves has worked for the spread of the religion in which slavery is openly inculcated and practised. What would Livingstone say, were he alive to-day, to see the very Arab traders he labored so hard to suppress be- come the religious teachers of his beloved African tribes? Would he regret what he had done? Surely not. He would probably say: "One reform at a time. I devoted my life to the putting down of the great evil of slavery. Other evils have now arisen. It is for you to attend to these." What happened was this. The Arab traders, driven from their nefarious traffic, turned to general trade as a substitute. They became importers of guns, gun- powder, cloth, tools, anything the African desired, re- ISLAM ON THE MARCH 63 ceiving ivory, rubber, ostrich feathers, and other prod- ucts in exchange. This required a reversal of attitude on their part toward the natives. Since mutual trust is the basis of commerce, the proud Arab sought the friendship of the humble African. He became very condescending. He v^as anxious to receive the de- spised natives into the fellowship of his world-con- quering religion. "Let us be brothers. We have much to offer you. We can protect you from your enemies; we can give you standing among the great people of the earth; we can teach you the faith of the one true God." Behold the slave-driver become a missionary! Can we wonder that such arguments proved enticing to many a native king? Moreover, the Arab has not failed to keep his word. He actually receives his black brother into his tent, he shares with him his faith and his civilization. He is not troubled with race prejudice. He is a true friend so long ar the African gives him the monopoly of friendship and the privilege of trade which goes therewith. Other higher motives will appear as we proceed; but bear in mind that the economic factor has a prominent place in this strange situation. A prime factor in the Mohammedan advance is the attitude of the European governments which now con- trol the Sudan. The battle of Omdurman, in 1898, in which Lord Kitchener shattered the power of the Khalifa, the successor of the Mahdi, marks the begin- ning of British rule over the Egyptian Sudan. A few years later Great Britain and France came to an agree- 64 THE LURE OF AFRICA ment by which the latter country should have undis- puted sway over the western section of the Sudan. Since then, England and France, working in close ac- cord, have maintained law and order throughout this vast territory. Tribal wars, which had hitherto abounded, were now suppressed, and freedom of travel and trade assured. This highly desirable end, how- ever, deprived the pagan chiefs of their one protection against the aggression of the Mohammedan rulers. What the Moslem chiefs had not been able to achieve by the power of the sword, they now began to accom- plish by peaceful penetration. Had England and France stopped at this point, no just complaint could be made; but unfortunately they went a step farther and practically became patrons of the Mohammedan faith. Christian missionaries are at liberty to settle and work among the heathen tribes, and in certain large centers, like Khartum, but in areas which the government has designated as Moslem, Christian activity is forbidden. This amazing attitude on the part of two powers which in other parts of the world have done so much to promote Christian civilization, is defended on the ground that it will not do to arouse the fanaticism of the Moslem chiefs, without whose friendly help it would be impossible to maintain peace in that far- off section of the world. It is the familiar argument of political expediency. That the problem of govern- ing colonies in the interior of a continent like Africa is an exceedingly difficult one must be recognized. ISLAM ON THE MARCH 65 Moreover, we must admit that Great Britain and France have received the reward of their poHcy in the loyalty of the Mohammedan tribes during the European War, when a revolution in the Sudan would have been an exceedingly embarrassing circumstance. None the less must we deprecate carrying the policy of sympathy and toleration to the point where the im- pression is given that the governing powers actually favor the Mohammedan religion. As it is, the Koran is taught by Moslems in the government schools throughout the Sudan, while Gordon College, a state institution at Khartum, where "Christian Gordon" laid down his life, is to-day practically a Mohammedan in- stitution. The Koran is taught ; the Bible is excluded. Even Turkey, Mohammedan to the core, tolerates Christian institutions and the use of the Bible in the schools. But in the Sudan we have the spectacle of Christian England and France refusing sanction to Christian people for the extension of their own faith. In Northern Nigeria the British authorities state that the present restrictive policy toward Christian missions will be removed when railroads and other de- velopments make possible the better protection of mis- sionaries and other white settlers. This suggests a phase of the problem which in fairness we must not overlook. Certainly we welcome the indication that Christianity is to have a free hand and a fair chance some of these days. The present policy of England and France is the more indefensible in that it runs counter to experience 66 THE LURE OF AFRICA in other parts of the world. In the most fanatical lands, like Arabia, Turkey, and northwest India, medi- cal missions have been allowed and have won the favor of the people. Should Christian physicians withdraw from these lands the Moslems themselves would rise up and protest. It would seem that only in the Sudan must Mohammedans be protected against hospitals and other institutions which render service in the name of Christ. It is frequently stated that the head and center of the Mohammedan advance is the El Azhar University in Cairo, to which allusion has already been made. Tourists who see the thousands of youths undergoing training in this famous mosque are informed that one of the main objects of the school is the capturing of the continent of Africa for Islam. It is explained that the Moslem powers^ being now practically excluded from Europe and making little headway in Asia, are turning to Africa, which they claim as their peculiar field. The best information does not bear out this contention. It is doubtful if any of the El Azhar graduates go as missionaries to central Africa. Their ambition lies in the direction of the great mosques of Mohammedan countries. Nor is there evidence that from this institution or other Islamic centers is there an organized movement for the conquest of Africa= Yet we may say one section of the Mohammedan world is, in a sense, organized for the propagation of the faith, and especially for the winning of Africa. Not a little has been heard in recent years of the ISLAM ON THE MARCH 67 Senussi of North Africa, and especially of their ac- tivity against the French and Italians during the Great War. One hardly knows whether to speak of them as a tribe or as a brotherhood. They appear to be the strongest of the more than one hundred orders of Islam. Founded by the Arab sheik, Senussi, in 1835, they have withdrawn to strongholds in the desert wastes of Tripoli and Algeria, where they defy all control. They exist for the spread of Islam and re- fuse all Christian contacts. It is interesting to find that they are bitterly opposed to the Turks, whom they consider to be usurpers. The order is strongly puritan in its tendencies, prohibiting music, singing, dancing, smoking, and coffee-drinking. It has a rule that no member shall live in a country governed by a non- Mohammedan power. The present sheik is a remark- able man, and it is in his direction that we must look for the explanation of some things which have been happening of late in the Sudan. JVhy the Mohammedan Missionary Wins In addition to the general considerations adduced above there are certain special reasons why the Moslem advance is making such rapid progress. First of all is the simplicity of the Mohammedan creed : "La- ilaha-illa-'llahu ; Muhammadu-Rasulu-'allah" (There is no god but God; Mohammed is the apostle of God). Five times a day, wherever Islam goes, the muezzin summons the faithful to prayer in words substantially similar to the creed. The fundamentals of this re- 68 THE LURE OF AFRICA ligion are few and they are ingrained in the soul of every disciple. It is an easy faith to understand, an exceedingly easy one to pass along. Reduced to its lowest terms the Mohammedan message is this : *'We have the one true God; the one true prophet; the one true book; the one true brotherhood." Consider also the passion in which this faith is held. Easy-going Westerners, who hold their religion lightly, have little conception of the intensity of the Moham- medan's belief. He knows he is right, and he preaches his doctrine with a passion and a dogmatism which is well-nigh compelling to the African mind. We read of Kitchener's victory over the Mahdi at Omdurman, but we forgot that ten thousand bodies of Moslem "martyrs" were left on that battlefield as a witness to their faith in Islam. Dr. John R. Mott tells how he once asked a little girl in Egypt if she were a Mo- hammedan. "Yes," she replied, "thank God, I am a Mohammedan." We are to consider, also, that this religion of the desert appeals to the African because it comes from a man like himself. The Mohammedan missionary reaches him on his own level; he is one of his own sort, not unlike him greatly in color; much closer so- cially than the white-faced stranger from over the seas. Dr. Blyden, a Baptist missionary, gives the fol- lowing illuminating description of how Mohammedan missionaries in the Sudan gain their foothold : "On a certain day the inhabitants of the town ob- served a man, black like themselves, but clad in a ISLAM ON THE MARCH 69 white garment, advancing down the main street. Sud- denly the stranger prostrated himself and prayed to Allah. The natives stoned him and he departed. In a little while he returned and prostrated himself as before. This time he was not stoned, but the men gathered about him with mockery and reviling. The men spat upon him and the women hurled insults and abuse. His prayer ended, the stranger went away in silence, grave and austere, seemingly oblivious to his unsympathetic surroundings. For a space he did not renew his visit, and in the interval the people began to regret their rudeness. The demeanor of the stranger under trying circumstances had gained their respect. A third time he came, and with him two boys, also clothed in w^hite garments. Together they knelt and offered prayer. The natives watched and forbore to jeer. At the conclusion of the prayer a woman came timidly forw^ard and pushed her young son toward the holy man, then as rapidly retreated. The Moslem arose, took the boy by the hand, and, followed by his acolytes, left the village in silence as before. When he came again he was accompanied by three boys, two of them those who had been with him before, the third the woman's boy, clad like the rest. All four fell upon their knees, the holy man reciting the prayer in a voice that spoke of triumph and success. He never left the town again, for the people crowded round him, beseeching him to teach their children. In a short time the entire population of that town, which for three centuries had beaten back the assaults of 70 THE LURE OF AFRICA would-be Moslem converters by the sword, had volun- tarily embraced Islam !" Add now, as a clinching consideration, the fact of certain obvious advantages in the acceptance of Islam. It offers at once to the African tribe political stability, association with other organized peoples, commercial activity, and a measure of civilization. To the indi- vidual African, should he attend a government school, the new faith becomes a passport to government em- ployment. In certain sections only Mohammedans are hired by the powers that be. With so many advantages in his favor can we wonder that the Mohammedan missionary is winning his way? The wonder would seem to be that Chris- tianity has any chance whatever in these regions. Is Mohammedanism a Step Tozvards Christianity ? I was once addressing a convention of American negroes on the perils of Islam in Africa, when one of their prominent bishops took me aside and informed me that he considered it a distinct advantage for his people in Africa to be Islamized, since in that way they would become prepared for Christianity as the final stage in their progress. This accords with the view of some European officials who have labored in Africa. Captain Orr, of Northern Nigeria, is quoted as saying : ''Even if it be true that Islam lays a dead hand on a people who have reached a certain standard of civilization, it is impossible to deny its quickening influence on African races in the backward state of ISLAM ON THE MARCH 71 evolution. Among the pagan tribes of Northern Nigeria it is making its converts every day, sweep- ing away drunkenness, cannibalism, and fetishism; mosques and markets spring into existence, and the pagan loses his exclusiveness and learns to mingle with his fellow men. To the negro, Islam is not sterile or Hfeless. The dead hand is not for him." Mr. E. D. Morel, whose books on the Congo atrocities have at- tracted such attention, maintains that Africa will un- doubtedly become a Mohammedan continent, and that it is right and good that it should be so. We must admit that Islam brings certain immediate advantages to the people of tropical Africa. The Mohammedan convert stands up straighter, he holds his head in the air, he has attained self-respect, he has put off certain disgusting practises, he has taken on a certain degree of civilization, — not a few counts in its favor. On the other hand, Mohammedanism is Mohammedanism. It has had a history, and from that history we know it has blighted the life of every na- tion coming under its power. Until the story of Morocco, of Algeria, of Arabia, of Turkey is wiped out, the presumption will be strong against Islam's becoming a blessing in the Sudan. The taint lies too deep. Grant that it favors reverence, cleanliness, and temperance; but how about sensuality, polygamy, the suppression of womanhood ; the practise of magic ; the darkening of the mind; the inculcation of hate; the spirit of massacre? It is these offsetting evils that have dragged down the population of every Moslem 72 THE LURE OF AFRICA land, and they will always drag them down. Central Africa will be no more of an exception than North Africa has been. If the enlightenment of the mind has anything to do with civilization, what hope is there in Islam? Is it possible for a religion of darkness to become a dispenser of light ? I once asked a Moslem camel driver what, on the average, was the life-time of the camel. He replied in surprise, *'How should I know? Allah alone knows such things. When Allah wants to take a camel, he takes him. Why should I inquire?" There you have the Moslem mind in a typical attitude. To the Christian, what God knows he seeks to have his children know and understand. He is a self-revealing deity. His wisdom is a challenge to our highest faculties and endeavors. To the Mos- lem it is the other way. Because God knows we must not know. Legitimate inquiry is ruled out ; the motive for education is suppressed. But theory aside, the facts are against the conten- tion that Islam is a half-way house toward Chris- tianity. Prof. Starr of the University of Chicago, who has traveled extensively in West Africa, even denies the material advantages which come with the adoption of the new faith. He says the Mohammedan towns are no better than the pagan towns, and that the apparent superiority of certain tribes who have embraced Islam is due not to their religion but to their inherent racial qualities. However that may be, it is a settled thing that Islam invariably works for the degradation of African womanhood. The women of ISLAM ON THE MARCH 73 the African harems are actually in worse plight than when they were in their heathen state. It is demon- strated also that after a few years the native mind be- comes set in the Mohammedan mold, so that it is vastly harder to win him to Christianity than before he dropped his pagan ways. If Christianity is the goal, then conversion to Islam is a step downward, not up- ward. It is doubtful if an instance can be cited where Islam has led to the higher faith. Any number of instances can be cited where it has worked in the op- posite direction. Back of all these considerations is the fact, which we must not blink, that Mohammedanism is by its very essence antichristian. It seeks to blot out Christianity, not to promote it. If we believe that Christ is the hope of the race and that his civilization is to prevail everywhere, then we cannot be too forward in our effort to save the African tribes, not only from pagan- ism, but also from the impending spread of this rival faith. "Those who have found in Christ the secret of comfort, strength, and moral victory, cannot with- hold the knowledge of him from the peoples of Africa at a time when they are exposed to new and grave dangers to their moral health and social well-being. The fact that paganism is doomed and must almost in- evitably give place within the next few decades either to Islam or Christianity makes the task which Provi- dence has laid on our generation of peculiar responsi- bility and urgency." These words from the Rev. J. H. Oldham, secretarv of the Continuation Committee of 74 THE LURE OF AFRICA the Edinburgh Conference, would seem to close the debate. How Christianity Has Met the Challenge The Mohammedan problem in Africa may best be considered in connection with two zones of influence. The first zone comprises the North African states, where the situation has been set forth in a former chapter. This may be called the zone of Moham- medan consolidation, since throughout the coast strip Islam has been in control from the days of the con- quest in the seventh century. The southern boundary in general follows the line of political division as found on the maps. To the south lies the zone of Moham- medan advance. Here it is not so easy to mark out boundaries. Roughly speaking, we may say the southern line begins on the west coast at the tenth degree of north latitude and runs across the continent, trending southward until it crosses the equator and reaches the Indian Ocean at the north border of Ger- man East. There are pagan tribes north of this line and Mohammedan tribes or portions of tribes to the south, especially along the east coast; but this division serves our purpose for a general view. The zone as thus defined includes the Mohammedan hinterland and also the sections into which Islam has pushed in recent years. All mission boards working within this second zone, or in proximity to its southern border, are either en- gaged in stemming the Mohammedan tide or acting ISLAM ON THE MARCH 75 as buffers for the rest of the continent. Throughout this region a twofold purpose is in view : to win the pagan population to Christianity, and to hold back the Mohammedan advance. The Foreign Missionary Society of the United Brethren in Christ, after sixty-two years of valiant work in Sierra Leone, now finds itself in the forefront of this struggle with Mohammedanism for the mastery of the pagan tribes. The propaganda they encounter is not that of the simple, sincere believer in Islam, but of the unscrupulous official of the mosque, whose in- struments are intrigue, lying, and intimidation. The high-handed methods of these men keep the native chiefs in such a state of terror that some are inclined to profess conversion as a means of safety. The work of this board is well established, with Freetown as a base, and with lines running into the far interior. At Rotifunk five of their missionaries suffered martyrdom in 1898. At this station to-day is located a remark- able missionary in the person of Dr. Zenora Griggs, who treats 8,000 cases a year in her dispensary. Secre- tary Hough aptly describes her as "a little woman doing a big work." This board conducts one of the best schools on the west coast in Albert Academy, at Freetown. In all, twenty-four missionaries are main- tained on the field. The founder of the mission, the Rev. W. J. Shuey, who went out in 1855, is still living. Three quarters of the people of Sierra Leone are now Mohammedan. The Mohammedan population of Free- town has increased fifty per cent, in ten years. 76 THE LURE OF AFRICA All the societies located on the Guinea coast and as far north as Senegal are, in a sense, involved in this struggle. The American societies concerned are the Domestic and Foreign Missionary Society of the Protestant Episcopal Church, the Board of Foreign Missions of the General Synod of the Evangelical Lutheran Church, and the Foreign Mission Board of the Southern Baptist Convention. The Episcopalians have been working in Liberia since 1835, the initial undertaking being in behalf of freed slaves, colonized from America. Bishop Ferguson (colored), who was consecrated in 1885, and who has recently died, broad- ened the work so that it has vital bearings upon the one million native people in the interior, many of whom are being won to Mohammedanism. The bishop left be- hind a remarkable record for fidelity and industry. His specialty was raising up an African clergy, but he also conducted forty-five excellent schools scattered along the coast. The Muhlenberg Mission of the Lutheran General Synod began work in Liberia in i860, in behalf of natives from the Congo region who were taken from a slave ship. The Rev. Morris Officer gathered forty of the children into a school which continues to this day and is doing excellent work. There is a girls' board- ing institution at the coast and eight schools are con- ducted in the interior. A prominent feature of the work is a coffee plantation, which serves as a center of industrial training. The Rev. David A. Day was connected with the work for twenty-five years, until ISLAM ON THE MARCH jj his death, and at one time he was chief of one of the tribes. This mission is now turning toward the native tribes, but along with all other agencies in Liberia, is handicapped by the inefficiency of the government. The Southern Baptist Foreign Mission Board oc- cupies a position of strategic importance in Southern Nigeria among the Yoruba people, one of the virile races of Africa. They occupy the gateway to the Hausa states, where the struggle between Christianity and Islam is focused. Working from four principal centers, by means of a well-developed medical work, industrial missions, and trained negro preachers, their task is to win the Yoruba and fill them with a mis- sionary zeal in behalf of the other tribes. A victory at this point is vital to success throughout the con- tinent. The center of this mighty struggle is Northern Nigeria, where the Fula and Hausa tribes are en- trenched, actively engaged in the Mohammedan propa- ganda. Here our chief reliance has been the Church Missionary Society of England. This is the work made famous by Samuel A. Crowther, "the Black Bishop," he being the first African to be consecrated to that office. There are now in the Niger Mission four bishops, three of them native. The work of the Niger delta is one of the noteworthy achievements of modern missions. In Northern Nigeria they have seven stations well placed in pagan communities. Re- cently they have been allowed to build a hospital in Zaria, a Hausa center, the Mohammedan emir and 78 THE LURE OF AFRICA the British governor consenting. Captain Orr speaks of this new venture as productive of good results. We may well be thankful that a great organization like the Church Missionary Society is standing so nobly in the breach. On the extreme eastern edge of the Sudan again we find the American United Presbyterians at work. Dol- eib Hill on the upper Nile and Nasser, farther up the Sobat, are their leading stations, where they are seek- ing to win the important Shilluk tribe. Hospitals, schools, preaching places, and industrial training are the agencies upon which they depend. The natives are of a savage character, and the country is infested with wild beasts. These outposts of Christianity call for a rugged and courageous type of missionary. The kill- ing of Mr. Ralph W. Tidrick by a lion illustrates the risks taken in the Sudan. A Shilluk village had com- plained of the ravages of some lions which were in- festing the neighborhood, and Mr. Tidrick took his rifles and led a relief expedition. With a company of natives, armed only with spears, he attacked a band of lions, killing one and driving the others into the tall grass. The grass was then set on fire and a huge lion rose up to see where the fire was located. Mv. Tidrick fired, and the lion dropped, but soon rose again and was struck by a second bullet, after which he did not appear. Shortly afterwards a second lion ap- peared, and Mr. Tidrick dropped it also; but it, too, bounded up a second time, and was hit again. With the natives, Mr. Tidrick pushed into the grass. The PROPOSED LINES OF MISSION STATIONS DPiriSflCAST ATT2ICA ^GCCnAN EAST ISLAM ON THE MARCH 79 first lion was found stone-dead; the second was wounded, but Mr. Tidrick, being suspicious, turned to his gun-carrier for a particular rifle, and at that mo- ment the huge beast w^as upon him. Before his helpers could come to the rescue with their spears, the mis- sionary was mauled beyond recovery. By a relay of steamers, they managed to carry his mangled body to the government hospital at Khartum, but fever set in, and in a few^ days the brave soul took its flight. By such acts as this the missionaries of the Sudan reveal to the Africans how ready they are to serve them, even to the laying down of life. No account of Christian activities in the Sudan would be complete without a reference to the excellent work of the Sudan United Mission and Dr. H. K. W. Kumm, its knight errant. This union organization was effected in 1904 for the express purpose of check- ing the Mohammedan advance. Its staff of fifty-eight missionaries works from centers among seven tribes in Northern Nigeria, and from one station on the upper Nile. It is carrying on evangelistic, educational, and medical activities and is translating the gospel into several of the very numerous languages of these pagan tribes. Between Numan, the easternmost station of this society in Nigeria, and Melut on the Nile is a stretch of country 1,500 miles wide, with not a mis- sionary. Dr. Kumm states that thirty-five pagan tribes live in this unoccupied field, each one an open door of opportunity. Dr. William J. W. Roome has recently taken a jour- 8o THE LURE OF AFRICA ney across Africa through Egypt, the Anglo-Eg3^ptian Sudan, and the Congo, for the purpose of investigating the Mohammedan advance movement. He found that there is grave danger of Islam capturing not only the remaining tribes of the Sudan, but also those of the Congo basin which have not been reached by Christian missions. He urges that two lines of mission stations should be established. The first line is practically the one proposed at the Lucknow conference, running from the upper Nile to Northern Nigeria, where it will join the stations of the Church Missionary So- ciety and the Sudan United Mission. The other line connects the mission stations of the upper Nile with those of the upper Congo and its tributaries. Here a comparatively small gap is found, some 200 miles in length; but if this should be filled it would form a wall of Christian influence through the very heart of the continent. Those who are interested in the strategy of African missionary work should study Mr. Roome's map with care. In view of what has been disclosed in this chapter, is it not plain that the Mohammedan advance in cen- tral Africa constitutes one of the greatest, if not the greatest issue before Christianity to-day? Bishop Hartzell of the Methodist Episcopal Church says, *The importance and greatness of this question to the Chris- tian churches in America cannot be overestimated. It represents the largest world missionary problem con- fronting the whole church at the beginning of the twentieth century. By common consent, the most im- ISLAM ON THE MARCH 8i mediate and insistent duty of the churches of Christ is to give the gospel to Africa's millions, thus saving them from the Moslem faith and the continent for Christ." What Mohammedan Africa needs is a new crusade — of love. In the middle ages the Christian nations of Europe were possessed by the idea that they must drive out the Moslems and recover the sacred seats of their religion by the power of the sword. In this they miserably failed, as they deserved to do. They under- stood neither the spirit nor the power of Christ. If we are to win to-day, it must be by an effort to help the Moslems, not annihilate them, by a crusade of good-will, appreciation, of sympathy, of friendly help, in the name of Christ. Raymond Lull, the six-hun- dredth anniversary of whose death we celebrated in 191 5, the first missionary to the Moslems, a man who sealed his devotion by a martyr's death, said, "He who loves not, lives not." It would not take a very large army of persons, living and working in the spirit of Lull, to win Africa's Moslems to Christ. STRONGHOLDS OF CHRISTIANITY IV STRONGHOLDS OF CHRISTIANITY If North Africa is the stronghold of Mohammedan- ism, we may claim that South Africa is the stronghold of Christianity. If the Sudan may be considered a zone of Mohammedan advance, then, with equal pro- priety, we may say that central Africa is a zone of Christian advance. In this way the outstanding fea- tures of the continent, religiously considered, can be kept easily in mind. In no other part of the world is the situation so clearly defined. The Zambezi River, which in its lower course runs east and west, forms the dividing line between central Africa and what is called South Africa, or the "subcontinent.'' This line is ap- proximately 15 degrees south latitude, which is also the latitude of the northern boundary of the territory designated, prior to the European War, as German Southwest Africa. All south of this line we will call the zone of Christian consolidation. All north, as far as the Sudan, we will call the zone of Christian ad- vance. Africa thus presents the spectacle of two missionary armies advancing for the conquest of the continent, the Mohammedan army from the north and the Christian army from the south. These four zones are useful, also, as indicating in a rough way the popu- 85 86 THE LURE OF AFRICA >< r*! XOKC OF MOnAnplEDAN ADVA^Ct ZONE/or CHClSriAN ^DVAIMCtl U-... 1. Zone oFcnDoriAN C0NSOHDAT1ON ZONES OF MOHAMMEDAN AND CHRISTIAN PROGRESS lation areas of Africa ; the Libyans and Arabs in zones I and 2, the negroes in zones 2 and 3, and the Bantus in zones 3 and 4. There are those who fear that Mohammedanism will spread throughout Africa, even down to the Cape of Good Hope. They point out that settlements of Moslems are to be found in Cape Town, and in the port CHRISTIAN STRONGHOLDS 87 cities of the eastern coast, and that these groups are growing stronger from year to year. I cannot share in their apprehension. It is inconceivable to me that Mohammedanism can penetrate below the Zambezi River in sufficient force to affect the religious situation in a serious way. Even if the churches should not become aroused sufficiently to hold the advance in the lake region and the Congo basin, the Christian forces would seem to be sufficiently entrenched in South Africa to assure, at least, that the native tribes shall not become Mohammedan. Whether they be- come Christian or not is another question. The Mos- lems of the coast are not of the aggressive, fanatical type; they are content to live and let live so long as they are allowed freedom of trade. Not a few of them are friendly toward their Christian neighbors. More- over, South Africa is as much a white man's country as the Sudan is a brown man's country. Settled by the Dutch in 1652, and taken over through various stages by the British and Germans, the subcontinent is definitely organized on the European basis, with Christianity well to the front. The struggle in South Africa is clearly between Christianity and paganism. The Natives and Their Religion And what paganism! Recently a distinguished American college president, who considers himself an expert on ethnology, was addressing a body of Chris- tian people in the city of Hartford. He pictured the life of the native Africans in almost idyllic phrase- 88 THE LURE OF AFRICA ology. He deplored teaching them to wear clothes, which gave them new diseases, especially the disease of false shame, and cumbersome conventionalities. He also deprecated leading them away from a religion which was sufficient for their level of culture, and a system of education which would separate them from their primitive, simple, and innocent relations with nature. A considerable tract of African territory ought to be set apart where one or more of these tribes should be left alone to live as they have always lived. All this sounded very wise and plausible. But there happened to be sitting in the audience President Wil- liam Douglas Mackenzie of the Hartford Theological Seminary, who was born in South Africa, his father being the famous John Mackenzie of the London Missionary Society. President Mackenzie, being called upon to speak, thanked the lecturer for an entertain- ing evening, and then proceeded to portray some of the conditions of African life, which he had learned at first hand, and which illumined considerably the state- ments as to the simplicity, innocence, and universal gentleness of the natives. The idea of setting apart a tract for the perpetuation of native customs reminded President Mackenzie of Cecil Rhodes' scheme for maintaining a large section of Rhodesia for the preser- vation of the wild animals of Africa. The coincidence of ideas appealed to him as peculiarly amusing. The impression which was left upon the audience by the two speakers may be imagined. As one person who was present put it, *T feel pretty sure that Dr. ZULU CHIEF AND HEADMEN A SMELLER-OUT WOMAN CHRISTIAN STRONGHOLDS 89 will probably not give that particular part of his lec- ture again, or at any rate, that he will try to make sure beforehand that no innocent 'native' African is in the audience." It is not stated just what customs President Mac- kenzie cited in defense of his position, but for anyone who has traveled in South Africa it is not difficult to imagine. Possibly he referred to the practise of eat- ing one's foe in order to obtain his bravery and strength, or the custom of making "medicine" of parts of the human body, the same being administered to the young braves before they go into war. It was this latter superstition which led to the Zulu uprising in 1906, which spread terror throughout Natal, and in which thousands of innocent natives perished. I re- call seeing the very spot where a white man was murdered in order to make ''war medicine," and how gruesome were the details of the transaction. The soles of the victim's feet were cut off, along with cer- tain other parts of his body, and of these a decoction was made which the witch-doctor sprinkled over the Zulu warriors. The soldiers were assured that by this means they would be immune to the white man's bul- lets, and that the bullets, as soon as they struck, would melt and run off like water. Not less than 3,000 Zulus believed that word and, armed only with their short- handled assagais, they charged the Maxim guns of the British. A missionary showed me where their bodies were left rotting in the sun. Possibly President Mackenzie told of those evil 90 THE LURE OF AFRICA geniuses of the South African tribes, the witch-doctor and the smeller-out-woman, who used to spread terror and death among the kraals, until they were sup- pressed by the British government. It is interesting to imagine what developments might occur in an area set apart for the preservation of native life, with the witch-doctor roaming at his own sweet will. More likely there was reference to the lovely custom known as lobolo, by which the girls are sold by their fathers to husbands at so much per head. In the old days the exchange was in cattle — twenty head for a likely maid; now it is an equivalent sum of money. Under this arrangement, universal in the South African tribes, marriage is a commercial transaction, pure and simple, and womanhood is rated as goods. The prac- tise, we can understand, is popular with the fathers; but, who in his senses would consider it an idyllic state for the girls? Put yourself in the place of a Zulu maid, sold, without consultation on her part, to an old man who already has eight wives ! From lobolo has sprung a brood of practises so revolting as to make description undesirable. A condition of society in which the mothers instruct their daughters in im- morality can hardly be considered as a state of inno- cence. The South African tribes have a number of excel- lent traits, which the missionaries seek not only to preserve but to develop. Their respect for authority, their unswerving loyalty, their bravery, their capacity for devotion mark them as worthy subjects for Chris- CHRISTIAN STRONGHOLDS 91 tian culture. Undoubtedly there are grave perils for these children of nature in the advent of European civilization; this will be made clear in the following chapter. But let us not deceive ourselves as to the moral and intellectual degradation of the South Afri- can tribes, or as to the need of Christian sympathy and help, if they are to be anything more than savages and pagans. There are those who regard the condition of certain tribes as beyond all hope; the early settlers, as a rule, took this view; but, thank God, there are others who find in these very conditions a sublime chal- lenge to faith and devotion. As we proceed it will become apparent that the optimistic view is not with- out good historical foundation. The Demonstration at Umvoti In a trip which carried me through important sec- tions of South Africa I was much favored in an early experience which enabled me to estimate the possibili- ties and values of the missionary work in practical as well as spiritual ways. It was at Umvoti in Natal, a station of the American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions, where work had been carried on for many years. A reception in my honor had been arranged in the large stone church and, as I approached the building, I was wondering what impression would be made upon me by a Christian congregation after the scenes of pagan degradation which I had witnessed in other parts of the continent. Entering by the pulpit door, with a missionary who was to act as my inter- 92 THE LURE OF AFRICA preter, I found myself looking into the faces of an African congregation which completely filled the church. They were divided, the men to the left of the center aisle, the women to the right. All were neatly clothed, the men with trousers, coats, shirts, collars, and even a few neckties; the women in well- laundered calicoes and wearing sunbonnets of brilliant hues. There was perfect decorum, as in an American church; their faces indicated earnestness and intelli- gence; the impression was of a congregation not only civilized but educated and prosperous. To look upon that throng was in itself a demonstration of the value of missions. Finally, my eyes dropped to the seats immediately in front of the pulpit, and there I beheld a row of the nakedest, the dirtiest, the most unutterable pagans I had ever seen. They stretched from one wall to the other, the men on the left, the women on the right. The men were nude, save for a bunch of monkey-tails hung at the loins and a headdress of feathers which gave them a peculiarly weird appearance. Each man carried a spear. The women — how can I make my readers see those women ? About their shoulders they wore a cloth which was saturated with red clay and grease. Their hair was done up also in clay and grease and hung in snake-like strings to the level of the tip of the nose. Their wild eyes peered out from among these strings like the eyes of a French poodle. They were all of one color — skin, clothes, and hair. They were of the earth, earthy. They looked as if CHRISTIAN STRONGHOLDS 93 they had just been created by being pushed up through the mud. I had seen many savages, but none hke these. While I was wondering what brought these crea- tures into this decent assembly, the native chief came forward and made all clear. The chief was garbed like a city gentleman, long black coat, starched shirt, and all the paraphernalia of civilization, with not a detail omitted, even to the necktie pin. He was a Christian and a highly prosperous man, being the owner of a sugar-cane plantation. It seems he had set this scene for my special benefit. In his Zulu head he had thought out a scheme by which this American visitor should get an idea of what the missionaries had been about. Turning to the row of heathen men he commanded in a loud voice, "Stand up!"; and up they got, spears in hand, a dangerous looking bunch. Turning to the women, in a still louder voice he com- manded, "Stand up !" ; and up they got. Then turning to me he said, ''Mfundisi (teacher), take a good look at these people." And I did; I took them all in — through more than one of my senses. The chief con- tinued : "These are heathen, as you see, just like the wild beasts ; and, Mfundisi, we want you to know that all of us people [he waved his arm impressively across the congregation] were once like that, just like the wild beasts, until Mr. and Mrs. Grout came among us to live. And, Mfundisi, we want you to know what a great change has come over us Zulus, and we want you to know how grateful we are to those who sent Mr. and Mrs. Grout and the other missionaries who 94 THE LURE OF AFRICA have lived among us ; and, Mfundisi, when you go back to your people over the seas, we want you to tell them what a change has come over us and how grateful we are." Was there ever a better speech or demonstration made in behalf of foreign missions? There was not another word to be said or thought on the subject. It was staring you in the face. In my response I said, "Chief, if I could take you and this row of heathen men and women with me to America, and could have you visit our churches in New York, Boston, Chicago and other places; and if I could have you make this same speech, I would convert every last remaining un- believer in foreign missions." Beginnings South Africa is full of just such evidences of the gospel's power. They are written all over the land- scape, and the evidence of this part of the continent is of peculiar value because this was the place of be- ginning; the experiment has gone on long enough to warrant drawing some pretty sure conclusions. As early as 1737, George Schmidt, the devoted Moravian missionary, began work among the Hottentots of Cape Colony, and before he retired under the compulsion of the authorities, he demonstrated that this race, one of the most degraded on earth, was susceptible to the uplifting influences of the gospel. In 1797 the London Missionary Society, founded only four years before, sent three missionaries to work CHRISTIAN STRONGHOLDS 95 among the Kafirs and Bushmen of Cape Colony. A few years later they pushed northward beyond the Orange River and established themselves among the Griquas and the Bechuanas, where a great work was to be performed. Four names should stand out in our minds in connection with this mission : Robert Moffat, one of the great names of missionary history, pos- sibly the greatest missionary ever sent to Africa, who settled among the Bechuanas at Kuruman, and under whose leadership the moral life of the tribe underwent a complete revolution; Mrs. Moffat, who, three years before a church had been formed, wrote to a friend in England who had asked what useful thing she could send out, "Send a communion service, we shall need it some day"; David Livingstone, who married Mary Moffat, the daughter, and became the most famous of modern explorers; and John Mackenzie, already re- ferred to, who succeeded Moffat, was the first to urge Great Britain to extend her protecting arm over the vast region to the north, now known as Rhodesia, and under whose influence the famous African king Khama was nurtured in Christianity. What a list ! The lives of these all should be known to the missionary student. As early as 18 16, the English Wesleyans sent out Barnabas Shaw, who settled in the Namaqua country, not far from the mouth of the Orange River. On the journey, Shaw fell in with a Namaqua chief who was on his way to Cape Town, over 400 miles from his kraal, to plead for a teacher who "could instruct them in the great Word." No wonder the Namaquas re- 96 THE LURE OF AFRICA ceived the word gladly and that a great work sprang up. From this point the Wesleyans spread until they occupied many points throughout South Africa. They now lead all the missions in the number of church- members. Add the fact that the United Free Church of Scot- land began work at Lovedale in 1824, and that the American Board sent its first missionaries to Natal in 1835, ^^d it becomes clear what a relatively long period of missionary endeavor we have in this part of the continent, as the basis of any judgment we may form. Pioneer Experiences There were many exciting experiences connected with the lives of the South African pioneers. The conditions which made the Boers one of the hardiest races on the earth contributed to build missionary fiber in this section. The distances were tremendous, when we consider that all travel was by ox-wagons. When Moffat went to Kuruman, he left Cape Town over 600 miles behind. Rivers like the Orange and Vaal, when in high water, had to be crossed by means of rafts. Livingstone and his bride, trekking north, nearly per- ished in a desert experience, Mid spectral lakes bemocking thirsty men, And stalking pillars built of fiery sand. The savages in those days were exceedingly savage, and they kept on the warpath with painful assiduity in their efforts to stave off the coming of the white CHRISTIAN STRONGHOLDS 97 settlers. Zulu chiefs, like Chaka, Dingaan, and Mosilikatse, laid waste large sections of the subcon- tinent, destroying entire tribes and putting to death, it is estimated, not less than 2,000,000 of the native population. In the Kafir War nearly every white man in a large district was murdered. Then there were the wild beasts, especially lions, leopards, crocodiles, and snakes. The prize snake stories of the world come from this region. The deadly imamha, eight to ten feet in length and as large as a man's arm, took a fancy to living under the floors of the missionaries' houses. Not infrequently they would come into the houses and, lifting their ugly heads four or five feet from the floor, would dis- pute control. The rats would build nests in the thatched roof, and the snakes would go up after the rats, occasionally dropping down on the tables and beds within, a habit which the lady missionaries re- garded as particularly objectionable. Lion stories galore are narrated. One of the best is that of the Rev. Daniel Lindley, one of the American Board pioneers in the Transvaal. On account of the native uprising, he was obliged to pack his goods and his family on a cart and trek through the veldt to the coast at Natal. One day he was followed by a band of four lions. Unwilling to fire a gun or build a camp-fire for fear of revealing his whereabouts, he was in a precarious position. Should the lions kill his oxen at night, his escape would be impossible. This is what he did. Outspanning in the late afternoon, 98 THE LURE OF AFRICA he left the camp in charge of his wife, and taking the Boer ox-whip, with its long lash, he went after the lions. They were watching operations from the top of a ridge; but when the missionary came along, crack- ing his whip, they turned and walked solemnly away. Lindley followed and, coming to the crest of the ridge, was surprised to see the lions far away walking up the ridge beyond. Still pursuing, he chased them over that ridge, and when he arrived at the top he saw them making slow progress toward a third rise of ground. The next time he ran quickly to the top of the ridge and, peering over without revealing himself, he saw the lions running with the utmost speed toward the next hill. He understood then that, so long as he was in sight, those princely beasts, for the sake of preserv- ing their dignity, would not proceed faster than a walk; but the moment they had the hill between them and that man with the whip, they would break into a run. Needless to say, they did not return. Great Successes If one is looking for missionary demonstrations. South Africa furnishes one of the best fields in the world. Only three can be mentioned here. In Basutoland we have an independent native state, under British protection, completely surrounded by the South African Union. Should the Basutos ever come into the Union, it would be of their own free will and accord. Moreover, we find this to be a state of civilized, educated, prosperous, and, for the most CHRISTIAN STRONGHOLDS 99 part, Christianized people. Here is one of the signal successes of modern missions, and we are to attribute it, under God, to the Paris Society for Evangelical Missions. Many noble workers have conjoined to bring about this result, among them the famous Coil- lard of the Zambezi, the first part of whose career was spent in Basutoland. The missionaries for many years have been the honored counselors of the chiefs. One of them was spoken of as "the uncrowned king of the Basutos." The Paris Society has been much favored by the fact that, under treaty, no white person can settle in Basutoland without the consent of the native government. Thus they have been free from the evil-minded whites who have so hindered mission work in other sections. Another favoring factor is the willingness of other boards to keep out and leave the field exclusively to this society. The whole missionary world knows about Lovedale in southeastern Cape Colony, and the wonderful in- stitution built up by Dr. James Stewart. Stewart of Lovedale is a biography which educational and es- pecially industrial missionaries the world over regard as a classic. The United Free Church of Scotland in all parts of the world places emphasis upon educa- tion in order that the native church may have trained, efficient leaders. At Lovedale, under Stewart's di- rection, education has developed strongly on the prac- tical side. In addition to normal and ministerial training, they lay stress on carpentry, masonry, wagon- making, blacksmithing, and printing. In these ways loo THE LURE OF AFRICA they endeavor to suit educational processes to the special conditions of native life. Their graduates are found throughout South Africa and are giving a good account of themselves. Lovedale is the Hampton of South Africa. The American Board work among the Zulus in Natal and Zululand is noteworthy because of the char- acter of the people. The Zulus are the most aggres- sive and warlike of the African tribes. Solidly built and of more than average height, they are said to be the finest piece of muscle on the face of the earth. Their mentality is also beyond that of the average tribe. Theologically we find them reaching the high- est point in African heathenism. Their belief in Unkulunkulu, ''the great, great One,'* approaches the idea of a supreme being. Under their king, Chaka, they conquered a large part of South Africa by means of a series of wars which revealed an unusual capacity for organization. Such was the warlike character of these people that the early colonists laughed at the efforts of the American missionaries. They said, 'Tt is impossible to convert the Zulus." What has been the outcome? In a visit to Natal in 191 1, in connection with the seventy-fifth anni- versary of this work, I asked a company of mis- sionaries and Zulu pastors to meet me for an early morning prayer-meeting at the grave of the first con- vert from this race. She was an old blind woman named Bhulosi, who came one day to Dr. Adams, after he and his colleagues had labored eleven years CHRISTIAN STRONGHOLDS loi without a single conversion, and said, "I choose God." Near-by, so that it was shown in the same photograph, was the grave of Dr. Adams himself. Standing on this spot, I asked the pastors how many Zulu church- members there are to-day. They replied, "Sixty thousand, sir." "And how many adherents have you, children and others who are practically Christians?" They put their heads together and estimated there were at least four adherents to each member. "That," said I, "means 300,000 Christian Zulus to-day; and here [pointing to the grave] is number one." It seemed the most fitting thing possible to close that service with the doxology. Other societies have cooperated with the Americans in bringing about this splendid result ; the outcome be- longs to the church universal. In this work emphasis has been placed upon Zulu leadership, both in evangel- ism and education. Every male Zulu Christian is ex- pected to preach, and some churches send out twenty and thirty lay preachers every Sunday. The Zulu churches are self-supporting. The British government, seeing tjie value of the educational work, gives liberal grants to the schools, in which some 5,000 children and youth are gathered. The educational scheme heads up at Amanzimtote, where the higher institu- tions are located. Mrs. Mary K. Edwards, who went to Natal in 1868 under the Woman's Board of Mis- sions, of Boston, the first missionary to be sent by a denominational woman's board in America, still lives and is active at Inanda, where she has built up a 102 THE LURE OF AFRICA boarding school for Zulu girls that is famed far and wide. The Unfinished Task I have called South Africa the stronghold of Chris- tianity; yet it would be a grave mistake to think of our task there as completed. Take, as one example, the Zulu work. The successes have been noteworthy ; yet to-day three quarters of this great tribe are as pagan as ever. They live in their hive-like huts, with their superstitions and their pagan ways still upon them. Polygamy is the accepted thing, loholo prevails on every hand, and unspeakable immoralities abound. A Herculean task remains if this tribe is to be saved. There are blocks of heathenism in other sections of South Africa which have not felt the touch of Chris- tianity. This is particularly true of the "locations," or reserves set apart by the government, where the natives live under conditions scarcely better than primitive paganism. We are to remember, also, that the subcontinent includes vast regions outside of the Union. Southern Rhodesia is pioneer territory to-day. So far as the conditions and character of the work are concerned, Rhodesia should be classed with central Africa, rather than with the subcontinent. What was formerly German Southwest Africa covers an area one and one half times that of the German Empire. Much of this region is desert, but in the interior are many native tribes offering missionary opportunity. The Rhenish CHRISTIAN STRONGHOLDS 103 and the Finnish Missionary Societies have divided this field between them; but even so, there are tribes where no missionary work has been attempted. On the opposite side of the continent is Portuguese East Africa, a region of great fertiHty, with a coast- line of 1,400 miles. One half of this territory, that lying south of the Zambezi, is included in the South African zone. Here is a native population of about one million, for the most part unreached by Christian influence. This great region, lying in abysmal dark- ness, is the most important unoccupied area south of the equator. Work in Portuguese East is rendered difficult on account of the deadly climate, and, until recently, by the hostility of the Portuguese govern- ment. Since the republican regime began at Lisbon, missions, under proper auspices and conditions, are al- lowed, not only in the coast cities but also in the interior. Portuguese East Africa to-day is one of the great unanswered challenges of the pagan world. Help From New Quarters Beyond question, it belongs to the white churches of the South Africa Union to fill up the gaps between the mission boards of Europe and America. Certainly the reaching of the natives in the "locations" should be regarded as a home mission task. From early days the Dutch Reformed Church of Cape Colony, which is -an exceedingly strong organization, has taken a certain amount of interest in the pagan tribes, and not a little good work has been done. It deserves the more credit I04 THE LURE OF AFRICA because of the hostile attitude of the Boers who have occupied the outlying regions, and whose notion is that Christianity "spoils the natives." To-day Christendom rejoices to learn that the missionary spirit is taking possession of this important communion, as also of the Wesleyans, Presbyterians, Anglicans, and other churches of South Africa. Even the Boers are more sympathetic in their attitude. By a strange provi- dence, this new attitude on the part of the Boers arose through the sending of Boer prisoners to India and Ceylon at the time of the Boer War. Shut up in the prison camps of these distant lands, in their homesick condition they were visited by American missionaries, and many of them were brought to Christ. At the same time they came to see the value and beauty of mission work. At the close of the war a goodly num- ber of these converts returned to South Africa as missionary volunteers, determined to do for the negroes what the American missionaries had done for the Hindus. Does the history of missions contain a more romantic episode than this? I recall stumbling upon a mission station occupied by one of these con- verted Boer soldiers, when tramping through an ex- ceedingly unhealthy section of Mashonaland in Southern Rhodesia. It was interesting to find this lonely man in that far-away spot, reading the reports of the Edinburgh Conference. Some Boer volunteers have pushed north of the Zambezi as far as the Nyasa country. They should make good missionaries. Christian people the world over have heard of CHRISTIAN STRONGHOLDS 105 Andrew Murray, who died in 191 7 at his home in Wellington, South Africa, and have read his devo- tional books. But how many know that Dr. Murray's leading interest was the evangelization of the pagans of his continent, and that his pet enterprise was the South Africa General Mission? This union society was founded in 1889. It has stations in Swaziland and in other parts as far north as the Congo country. It does not attempt to compete with the older boards in the matter of settled educational work; but special- izing upon evangelism, it is welcomed as a new agency in a very needy part of the world. Can the South African church become a missionary force as her sister churches in Uganda and Cameroun are coming to be? It might seem, after all these years, that the black churches of Natal, Basutoland, and Cape Colony should be sending out missionaries on their own account to the unreached tribes of the interior. If they have been something of a disappointment in this re- spect, we must remember the repressive influences to which they have been subjected by the European gov- ernments, which, as a rule, do not wish them to become aggressive. We must bear in mind, further- more, that the modern missionary movement is Chris- tianity at its noblest, the flowering out of Protestant- ism after centuries of development. Should it be an occasion of surprise if churches only one or two generations out of paganism are not yet ready to pour themselves out in this high service of love? To these considerations we must add the fact that the gifts of io6 THE LURE OF AFRICA administration, which make for sound financial man- agement and for wise direction of forces on the for- eign field, are among the rarer things of life. Possibly no enterprise calls for greater stability of character and for a firmer grasp upon the principles underlying administrative efficiency than the building of a Chris- tian civilization in a pagan land. Some day, beyond doubt, the rising churches of the Dark Continent will assume a worthy share of the task of redeeming Africa. When that time comes, South Africa may be counted upon as a fresh base of supplies, a strong- hold from which a new army of Christ will march for the conquest of the regions beyond. AFRICA'S DEBIT AND CREDIT ACCOUNT WITH CIVILIZATION V AFRICA'S DEBIT AND CREDIT ACCOUNT WITH CIVILIZATION If you wish to obtain a correct idea of what Euro- pean civiHzation means to Africa, a good way is to push into the interior of some British colony and spend a day with the magistrate. It is no hoHday jaunt. At the head of a long line of sweating carriers, under the blazing tropical sun, you tramp for days before reaching the border of the district. When at last your caravan swings into the government clearing you are in a state of mind and body to admire the pluck of the man who, even for the sake of ruling, is willing to live in so remote a spot. The first thing that strikes your attention is the bare- ness of the grounds about the magistrate's residence. You take early occasion to remark: "Why, in a fer- tile region like this, don't you have some grass or at least flowering shrubs and trees growing about your house?" "Well, don't you see?" the magistrate re- plies, "we couldn't exactly do that, on account of the mosquitoes, these pesky Anopheles which hide under the vegetation. It is rather bad around here in that respect. All the white men catch the fever sooner or later, and most of them have to get out. There were 109 no THE LURE OF AFRICA sixteen of us in the district last year; only eight are left now. Three were ordered home; the others waited a bit too long and 'black-water' got them. You must have passed the carriers with the grave-stones, as you came in — some very nice ones sent out from home, they tell me." The British flag flies from a rather crooked pole in the center of the clearing, and down the hillside you see the government house, where the court is held. It is a simple affair — the magistrate in his immaculate white cotton suit, sitting at a deal table, a clerk or two, several native aides, a white policeman in khaki, a group of black men waiting outside. The natives come in, bend level with the ground, clap their hands twice in token of respect, and state their case. Solo- mon in all his glory never had more puzzling questions to pass upon. Here is a father who cannot pay his hut-tax; he will send his boy of fifteen to the white settlement to earn the money. He asks for a permit for the boy to leave the district. Decision: Request refused — boy too young and untried ; temptations too great. "Next." Another father claps his hands; looks anxiously to left and right. His daughter ran away to live a wild life in a mining town. Will the magis- trate bring her back ? Decision : A policeman is or- dered to investigate and report. If true, case will be taken up with magistrate of mining district. This means a seventy-mile ride on horse-back for the police- man ; but the father goes away satisfied. AFRICA AND CIVILIZATION iii "Next." A most peculiar matter is brought to his attention by a letter from a missionary. Nomusa mar- ried a widower having several sons. Her husband died. For several years she worked to support herself and children, never failing also to give her share to the local church. In time she became engaged to marry again. But her eldest stepson, a boy in his teens, is her owner, and he has been lost sight of for several years and is not to be found. Yet he it is who must agree on the number of cattle as the marriage price of his mother! No relative can be found to act in his place, it being feared that the boy may return and take exception to the marriage bargain. Hence, the wedding cannot take place. Will the magistrate legalize the marriage? This he does, by consenting to act as trustee for the stepson, author- izing the marriage, and holding the dowry (money in Heu of cattle). So it runs all the morning. Mounted police arrive to report upon the patrolling of wide areas; native chiefs call to turn in the tax money they have col- lected ; a village headman reports the ravages of lions ; the telephone jingles from the far-away railroad center, announcing the leaving of carriers with sup- plies, or the departure of the weekly post. It is a busy and highly useful life lived by this lonely Englishman in the clearing. He is a chief and a father, and, we are inclined to add, a missionary, all rolled into one. Naturally there are some of a different stamp; but, taking them all in all, they are a fine set of men. For 112 THE LURE OF AFRICA one I say, "Hats off to the British magistrates in the heart of Africa/* We are going to take a square look at this matter of European rule. It is a complicated problem, and many things have been said on both sides; but there can be no question as to the place of responsibility. The responsibility lies at the door of the nations which have deprived the Africans of their land. The scramble for Africa, which began with the opening up of the Congo basin by Stanley and the entering in of Germany in 1884, came to an end with the passing of Morocco to France in 1912. Of the black man's Africa there remain now only Abyssinia on the east and little Liberia on the west. War may change the alignment of territory, and adjustments may be made from time to time by treaty; but nothing points to the return of the Africans into control in any part of the continent. Europe is in possession and must give an account of herself. The question is not whether Europe had a right to carve up Africa ; but, whether, having done so, Europe has made a right use of her privileges. We will grant as a general principle that it is for the good of the world that large sections of the earth should not be left in barbarism; that no race can be said to have a right to territory which it is unable to use or which it uses in such a way as to prove a detriment to man- kind. It was in accordance with this principle that our own continent was colonized by Europe in the seven- teenth and eighteenth centuries and the Indians made AFRICA AND CIVILIZATION 113 to give way. But, alongside of that principle, let us insist upon another. In taking over the territory of barbarians, civilized nations are bound to give proper compensation; to make adequate provision for the preservation of the native race ; and, in general, to rule in such a way that the natives shall share in the benefits of the new order. In a word, Europe has no business in Africa unless it is for the good of the Africans as well as for the good of Europeans. It will help us to appraise the case for civilization if we keep these two principles in mind. In this discussion we shall use the word "civilization" in the sense in which it is used by the men (and there are a good many of them) who place civilization over against mission work as of equal or greater benefit, also by those who maintain that intellectual and practical cul- ture should precede missionary effort, under the theory that the African is incapable of appreciating Chris- tianity, until he has been "civilized." The civilization we are examining is the thing which the European powers, unaided by the churches, are trying to do in Africa — in a word, secular civilization. Let us take up the credit items first. The Benefits of Civilization When David Livingstone journeyed from central Africa to Cape Colony to wed Mary Moffat, he was six months trekking back to the Zambezi River. The traveler can make the same journey now on the "Zam- bezi Express" in four days; and instead of encounter- 114 THE LURE OF AFRICA ing all sorts of perils and hardships, as did Livingstone and his bride, he can recline in a sumptuous compart- ment, have excellent meals served in a dining-car, en- joy a good bed at night, refresh himself with a shower-bath in the morning, and, in general, have solid comfort along every mile of the way. I wonder how many tourists who take this "train de luxe" for the purpose of visiting the Victoria Falls stop to think of how much they owe to the British government for making possible this steel highway through the Afri- can jungle. Think of the cost of throwing that arch across the Zambezi gorge below the Falls! Yet that is but one item in a colossal enterprise. In the Sudan Great Britain has built 1,500 miles of railway in fifteen years, not to mention the inaugura- tion of 2,000 miles of steamboat service and the stringing of 5,000 miles of telegraph wires. Germany, before the war, planned to construct a transcontinental line from her colony on the east to her colony on the west. Already this line has reached Lake Tan- ganyika from the east. France, not to be outdone, would build a line from Tangier, opposite Gibraltar, through Morocco, over the Atlas Mountains, across the Sahara to Timbuktu on the Niger, where connec- tions would be made with a steamboat and railroad service to the west coast. An even more daring French scheme is to build a railroad from Algeria to Lake Chad, and thence eastward through the Sudan, across the Nile, emerging at some point on the Indian Ocean. A group of London financiers are building a AFRICA AND CIVILIZATION 115 line from Benguela, in Portuguese West Africa, to Katanga in the interior, where it will join the Cape- to-Cairo system, and tap the immense copper deposits of the upper Congo basin. This means 900 miles of rail through the coast range and across the interior plateau, with little revenue in sight until the last spike is driven. The railroads of Africa are not all dreams. Eight lines already penetrate the interior from the east coast. The west boasts sixteen such lines. With the railroads go government, law and order, peace, agriculture, business enterprise, sanitation. Take the Nile valley as an example. Mr. Powell, in The Last Frontier, expresses the opinion that the development of Egypt under Lord Cromer is the best example of England's genius as a colonizing nation. He begins his chapter on the Nile valley with these words : "This is the story of how a handful of white men jerked a nation out of the desert and the depths of despair, as though by its collar, set it on its feet, and taught it to play the game.''^ What Great Britain has done for the Nile region by means of its railroads, steamboat lines, the Assuan dam, irrigation schemes, and, above all, through the administration of justice, presumably she intends to do elsewhere. Read Captain Orr's book on Nigeria, and you will see how a splen- did beginning has been made in that colony.^ The aboHshing of tribal wars in practically every part of the continent is a tremendous gain. It is stated * The Last Frontier, p. io8. * C. W. J, Orr, The Making of Northern Nigeria. ii6 THE LURE OF AFRICA that not less than 6,000,000 natives perished in the campaigns of the Mahdi and Khalifa. To-day peace reigns in the Sudan. Kitchener was ten years building his railroads and steamboats and gathering his army before he commenced the Dongola campaign. He settled the issue in the one battle of Omdurman. Since then, under the administration of Sir Reginald Win- gate, the Egyptian Sudan has settled down to raising cotton and cattle, and is to-day not only a peaceful but a prosperous state. South Africa, once ravaged by the Zulu chiefs, now has a Bantu population dou- bling every twenty-five or thirty years. The French and Germans deserve similar credit within their spheres of influence. Law and order — how much we sum up under that head in our own communities! By the use of a little imagination we can understand what this may mean in an African village. Protection of life, security of property, a chance to work and save and build a happy home, unmolested by one's neighbors or by a tyrant chief — these are some of its fruits. Under this item VvTC must include the putting down of certain revolting and destructive native customs, such as slavery, canni- balism, human sacrifices, the strangling of twin babies, and the criminal activities of the witch-doctor. An important consideration is the labor market which has been opened in many parts of the continent. The character of the African has suffered immeasur- ably through the lack of a proper incentive to work. Adolphe Cureau, in his exceedingly valuable book, AFRICA AND CIVILIZATION 117 Savage Man in Central Africa, says, "what we are be- ing continually told of the negro's idleness is sheer slander. He is not in the least idle, but simply unem- ployed.'" Samuel Johnson said, "Every man is as lazy as he dares to be." With civilization there comes to the African the needed stimulus and also a remunera- tive opportunity. Throughout the colonies labor is in demand and, as a rule, good wages are paid. Here, too, we must take account of what the Euro- pean governments are doing for education. Germany has a particularly good record in this matter. In the Cameroun and Togoland, under German control, the school facilities surpassed those of the neighboring British colony, Nigeria. The French and British gov- ernments encourage education and make sizable appro- priations for this purpose. Great Britain makes large grants to mission schools and in certain colonies has practically placed education under church control. A university for natives has recently been established in South Africa. If the account stood at this point the showing for Europe would be exceedingly creditable. But the evi- dence is not all in. What the Native Thinks About It Strange to say, the native does not seem to appre- ciate what is being done for him by his rulers. It is not that he denies these things, but that certain other things occupy his mind, and bulk much larger than the * Adolphe Louis Cureau, Savage Man in Central Africa, p. 64. ii8 THE LURE OF AFRICA benefits of civilization. This is particularly true of those aspects of civilization which infringe upon his personal liberties. To begin with, the contemptuous attitude of the white man is gall and wormwood to his soul. He is a human being and he resents being kicked around like a dog. In many parts of Africa the sjambok (a large, thick whip made of rhinoceros hide) is the badge of the white man, and this instru- ment of torture and relic of slavery he uses with cruel and contemptuous frequency. In some of the cities the natives are not allowed on the sidewalk, and along all the trails the natives flee in terror from the white traveler or hide in the bushes until convinced that the foreigner is a friend, not a foe. In every possible way the African is made to feel his "inferiority." Then there is the hut-tax. As a rule a tax of not less than one pound is placed on each native hut. This seems to him a tremendous sum, and in many instances such is the case. That he resents the imposition only marks him as human. The Zulu uprising in 1906 was caused by the British government's adding a poll-tax to the hut-tax. This was a cruel exaction, and the Zulu was driven nearly wild with rage. His mind worked in this way : "They have taxed my hut ; they have taxed my cattle ; they have taxed everything I own ; and now they are taxing my head. Well, let them take my head. I am for war." One day, when I was passing through Gazaland, several native chiefs waited upon me with a long string of requests, at the head of which was the plea that AFRICA AND CIVILIZATION 119 I should pay their taxes, and if I was unwilling to do this, that I should use my influence to have the taxes remitted by the government. I saw this was rankling in their breasts as a great injustice. They were sur- prised enough to find that I had to pay a tax on my own hut in the United States; and when I told them how much I had to pay, they clapped their hands over their mouths and exclaimed, *'Wow V Another galling restriction under which the native chafes is the limitation of travel. By all the tides of his blood he is a hunter or a trader, yet, living in ''his own land," he finds himself shut up in a district and not allowed to pass its borders without a permit, se- cured only with difficulty. It is bad enough to be con- sidered merely a taxable commodity, but by this law he feels himself a slave. And slave he is in those parts of Africa where enforced labor prevails. It is true the old slavery has gone, but often an industrial slav- ery takes its place. The case is stronger yet. It has been said that the history of commerce may be traced by the weeds which have grown up along its pathway. The history of civilization in Africa may be traced by the diseases which spring up in its track. The cattle pests, which bear particularly hard upon the live stock of the na- tives, were unknown and were restricted to certain localities until the railroad and steamboat spread the germs far and wide. The African accuses the white man of bringing these things, and he names them over : rinderpest, tick-fever, east-coast fever, each one a 120 THE LURE OF AFRICA terrible indictment. The native stands gazing sadly at his empty cattle kraal. The magistrate, passing by, remarks, "Build a dipping-tank." The native replies, "Give me back my herds." To the cattle pests we must add certain human dis- orders, like tuberculosis, smallpox, and the venereal diseases to which the African is peculiarly susceptible, and which have worked sad havoc. When the black man brings in this accusation, what is the white man to say ? In South Africa the breaking down of tribal and family restraints is a serious thing. Even the white settlers are beginning to recognize this. Paganism had its laws and its sanctions. Crude as these were, they formed a certain basis for society; they were vastly better than nothing. European law abolishes these, but is unable to put anything effective in their place. The result is that certain tribes are more im- moral than before civilization came. What shall we say of the unjust and cruel wars of suppression in which every European power has en- gaged, of punitive expeditions which have been little better than massacres? How about the Congo atroci- ties ? The things Europe has done under this category are a disgrace to civilization. They will rankle for generations in the African breast. The land question in the South African Union is so intricate that it can barely be mentioned; but the intelligent African will put it well to the front. A law has been passed making it a criminal offense to Copyright. Under\v