0 i tfc« WMotogUat * 
 
 PRINCETON, N. J. 
 
 % 
 
 Shelf.. 
 
 Division . . DQn.±Q 
 Section . . . . » .C^V 3. 8... 
 
 Number 
 


 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Digitized by the Internet Archive 
 in 2016 with funding from 
 Princeton Theological Seminary Library 
 
 https://archive.org/details/workadventureinnOOchal 
 
LIFE IN NEW GUINEA. [Seep. 231. 
 
WORK AND ADVENTURE 
 
 IN 
 
 NEW GUINEA 
 
 1877 to 1885 
 
 BY 
 
 JAMES ‘'CHALMERS 
 
 OF PORT MORESBY 
 AND 
 
 W. WYATT GILL, B. A. 
 
 AUTHOR OF “LIFE IN THE SOUTHERN ISLES,” ETC. 
 
 WITH TWO MAPS AND MANY ILLUSTRATIONS FROM ORIGINAL SKETCHES 
 AND PHOTOGRAPHS 
 
 THE RELIGIOUS TRACT SOCIETY 
 
 56, Paternoster Bow ; 65, St. Paul’s Churchyard 
 
 1885 
 
LONDON : 
 
 PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED, 
 STAMFORD STREET AND CHARING CROSS. 
 
CONTENTS 
 
 PAKT L 
 
 EXPLORATIONS IN NEW GUINEA 
 
 CHAP. PAGE 
 
 INTRODUCTION ........ 9 
 
 I. EARLY EXPERIENCES ...... 25 
 
 II. — A FEW TRIP INCIDENTS ...... 63 
 
 III. SKETCHES OF PAPUAN LIFE ..... 87 
 
 IV. — THE EXPLORATION OF THE GULF OF PAPUA . . 133 
 
 V. — THE KABADI DISTRICT ...... 155 
 
 VI. — SOME NEW GUINEA VILLAGES ..... 16(1 
 
 VII. — PEACE-MAKING ....... 192 
 
 VIII. — THE KALO MASSACRE ...... 205 
 
 IX. — A TRIP TO ELEMA ....... 224 
 
 X. A NEW GUINEA PICNIC ...... 239 
 
 XI. BIRDS OF PARADISE ...... 245 
 
 XII. EAST CAPE IN 1878 AND IN 1882 .... 250 
 
 PAET II. 
 
 SEVEN WEEKS IN NEW GUINEA. 
 
 I. THREE SUNDAYS AT PORT MORESBY .... 257 
 
 II. — TO MAIVA AND BACK ...... 268 
 
 III. — A COASTING VOYAGE TO AROMA .... 280 
 
 IV. — OPENING OF PIRI’S CHURCH, AND A RIDE TO PARI . . 305 
 
 V. — THE LAROKI RIVER ...... 313 
 
 VI. — TO BARUNI AND DINNER ISLAND .... 319 
 
 VII. — SUAU, OR SOUTH CAPE ...... 327 
 
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 
 
 life in new guinea ..... Frontispiece 
 
 BOEVAGI, CHIEF OF FORT MORESBY ..... 20 
 
 MURRAY ISLAND ........ 2 4 
 
 HOUSE OF PIRI AT BOERA ...... 30 
 
 NATIVES OF SOUTH-EASTERN NEW GUINEA. . . .56 
 
 TREE HOUSES ........ 93 
 
 A NEW GUINEA VILLAGE ...... 134 
 
 NEW GUINEA WEAPONS ....... 145 
 
 NEW GUINEA POTTERY ....... 150 
 
 NEW GUINEA DRUMS AND PIPE ..... 170 
 
 A FOREST OF PANDANUS TREES ..... 171 
 
 DUBUS AT VAILALA AND MOAPA. — KOAPINA, CHIEF OF MOAPA 184 
 A HULA GIRL ........ 208 
 
 NEW GUINEA WEAPONS AND ORNAMENTS .... 215 
 
 SHOOTING BIRDS OF PARADISE ...... 247 
 
 PORT MORESBY ........ 256 
 
 A NATIVE OF PORT MORESBY 262 
 
 ECHIDNA ......... 276 
 
 DUBU AT TUPUSELEI ....... 281 
 
 A HUT. A DANDY ........ 289 
 
 RUATOKA AND HIS WIFE. ...... 311 
 
 MAPS. 
 
 . To face p. 
 
 • » it 
 
 7 
 
 9 
 
 NEW GUINEA AND AUSTRALIA 
 SOUTH-EASTERN NEW GUINEA 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
If \ 
 
 jiMPGiU, 
 
 ALwitxcLa 
 
 SCALE 
 
 oF Engh i h Miles. 
 
 C. Ward' Hut 
 
 HOLA'tCOl E BAY 
 
 GULF OF 
 
 DYKE ACKLAru 
 BAY 
 
 KOTJJXWOOD 
 
 BAY 
 
 Roun^jfmii 
 
 'A'OUGf/ 
 
 MAP OK 
 
 South Eastern 
 
 HOODrOnHT< 
 Hood WXfrf 
 
 *°>pp‘ 
 
 ■^ Urh *3 
 
 ^Mortsby Is* 
 
 Includim* the discoveries recently made 
 by JAMES CHALMERS and other 
 
 Missionaries of the L.M.S. 
 
 I884-. 
 
 14-4 
 
 A. Johiuton 6 Palernoster BuiMiiigt - 
 

 
 
 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 Public attention lias been repeatedly and prominently 
 directed to New Guinea during the last few months. 
 The name often appears in our newspapers and 
 missionary reports, and bids fair to take a somewhat 
 prominent place in our blue-books. Yet very few 
 general readers possess accurate information about the 
 island itself, about the work of English missionaries 
 there, or about the part New Guinea seems destined 
 to play in Australian politics. Hence a brief sketch 
 indicating the present state of knowledge on these 
 points will be a fitting introduction to the narratives 
 of exploration, of adventure, and of Christian work 
 contained in this volume. 
 
 New Guinea, if we may take Australia as a continent, 
 is the largest island in the world, being, roughly 
 speaking, about 1400 miles long, and 490 broad at its 
 widest point. Its northernmost coast nearly touches the 
 equator, and its southernmost stretches down to 11° 
 south latitude. Little more than the fringe or coast-line 
 of the island has been at all carefully explored, but it 
 is known to possess magnificent mountain ranges, vast 
 stretches of beautiful scenery, much land that is fruitful, 
 even under native cultivation, and mighty rivers that 
 take their rise far inland. Its savage inhabitants have 
 
IO 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 aroused powerfully the interest and sympathy alike of 
 Christian Polynesians and English missionaries, who, 
 taking their lives in their hands, have, in not a few 
 instances, laid them down in the effort to win New 
 Guinea for Christ. 
 
 At some remote period of the past, New Guinea, in 
 all probability, formed a part of Australia. Torres 
 Strait itself is only about sixty miles wide ; the water is 
 shallow, shoals and reefs abound ; giving the sailor who 
 threads the intricate and dangerous navigation the 
 impression that he is sailing over what was once solid 
 earth. 
 
 The first European sailor who sighted the island was 
 D’Abreu, in 1511 ; the honour of being first to land 
 belongs most probably to the Portuguese explorer, Don 
 Jorge De Meneses, in 1526, on his way from Malacca to 
 the Moluccas. 
 
 Into the somewhat intricate history of the connection 
 of the Dutch with the north-west coast of New Guinea, 
 we cannot here enter. As suzerain nominally under 
 the Sultan of Tidore, they claim possession of the 
 western part of the island as far east as Lat. 141° 47' E. 
 The trade they carry on is said to be worth about 
 20,000Z. a year. Dutch missionaries have for many 
 years been stationed around the coast of Geelvink Bay. 
 
 In 1770 Captain Cook visited the south-west coast, 
 and in 1775, an English officer, Forrest by name, spent 
 some months on the north-east coast in search of spices. 
 In 1793 New Guinea was annexed by two of the East 
 India Company’s commanders, and an island in Geel- 
 vink Bay, Manasvari by name, was for a time held by 
 their troops. 
 
 Partial surveys of the south coast were made in 1845 
 
EARLY SURVEYS. 
 
 1 1 
 
 by Captain Blackwood, who discovered the Fly Itiver ; 
 by Lieutenant Yule, in 1846, who journeyed east as far 
 as the island to which he has given his name; and in 
 1848 by Captain Owen Stanley, who made a fairly 
 accurate survey of the south-east coast. 
 
 The most important survey work along the coast of 
 New Guinea was done in 1873 by H.M. ship Basilisk, 
 under the command of Captain Moresby. He discovered 
 the now famous harbour, Port Moresby ; he laid down 
 the true eastern coast-line of the island, discovering the 
 China Straits, and exploring the north-east coast as far 
 west as Huon Gulf. 
 
 In many parts of the world Christian missionaries 
 have been the first to get on friendly terms with the 
 natives, and thus to pave the way for developing the 
 resources of a savage country and leading its inhabitants 
 in the paths of progress and civilization. Pre-eminently 
 has this been the case in South-eastern New Guinea. 
 White men had landed before them, it is true ; but for 
 the most part only to benefit themselves, and not 
 unfrequently to murder the natives or to entrap them 
 into slavery. Christianity has won great victories in 
 Polynesia, but no part of the globe has witnessed 
 fouler crimes or more atrocious wickedness on the part 
 of white men toward savaae races. 
 
 O 
 
 The history of the work done by members of the 
 London Missionary Society is already a long one. As 
 far back as 1871, the Revs. A. W. Murray and S. 
 McFarlane sailed from Mare, one of the Loyalty 
 Islands, with eight native teachers, inhabitants of that 
 group, with whom to begin the campaign against sin, 
 superstition, and savagery in New Guinea. The first 
 station occupied was Darnley Island, and Mr. Murray 
 
12 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 gives an incident that well illustrates the spirit in 
 which these men, themselves trophies of missionary 
 success, entered upon their work. Speaking about 
 another island, the natives, in the hope of intimidating 
 the teachers, said, ‘ There are alligators there, and 
 snakes, and centipedes.’ ‘ Hold,’ said the teacher, ‘ are 
 there men there V ‘Oh yes,’ was the reply, ‘ there are 
 men ; hut they are such dreadful savages that it is no 
 use your thinking of living among them.’ ‘ That will 
 do,’ replied the teacher. ‘ Wherever there are men, 
 missionaries are bound to go.’ Teachers were stationed 
 at the islands of Tauan and Sabaii. Later on, Yule 
 Island and Eedscar Bay were visited, and the mission- 
 aries returned to Lifu. 
 
 In 1872 Mr. Murray returned in the John Williams 
 with thirteen additional teachers, and for the next two 
 years superintended the mission from Cape York. 
 In 1874 he was joined by the Bevs. S. McFarlane 
 and W. G. Lawes — who have both ever since that time 
 laboured hard and successfully on behalf of the natives — 
 and the steamer Ellengowan was placed at the service of 
 the mission by the liberality of the late Miss Baxter 
 of Dundee. The native teachers experienced many 
 vicissitudes. Some died from inability to stand the 
 climate, some were massacred by the men they were 
 striving to bless ; but the gaps were filled up as speedily 
 as possible, and the map recently issued (Jan. 1885) by 
 the Directors of the Society shows that on the south- 
 eastern coast of Hew Guinea, from Motumotu to East 
 Cape, no less than thirty-two native teachers, some of 
 them Hew Guinea converts, are now toiling in the 
 service of the Gospel. 
 
 In 1877 the Eev. James Chalmers joined the mission. 
 
INFLUENCE OF MR. CHALMERS. 
 
 13 
 
 and it is hardly too much to say that his arrival formed 
 an epoch in its history. He is wonderfully equipped 
 for the work to which he has, under God’s Providence, 
 put his hand, and is the white man best known to all 
 the natives along the south coast. From the first he 
 has gone among them unarmed, and though not un- 
 frequently in imminent peril, has been marvellously 
 preserved. He has combined the qualities of missionary 
 and explorer in a very high degree, and while beloved 
 as ‘ Tamate ’ (Teacher) by the natives, has added 
 enormously to the stock of our geographical knowledge 
 of New Guinea, and to our accurate acquaintance with 
 the ways of thinking, the habits, superstitions, and 
 mode of life of the various tribes of natives. 
 
 Notwithstanding various expensive expeditions for 
 the exploration of New Guinea, he has travelled the 
 farthest yet into the interior. He has been as far as 
 Lat. S. 9° 2' and Long. E. 147° 42J'. The farthest 
 point reached by Captain Arrnit was about Lat. S. 9° 35' 
 and Long. E. 147° 38'. Mr. Morrison merely reached 
 a point on the Goldie River, when he was attacked and 
 wounded by the natives. This compelled the party to 
 return to Port Moresby. 
 
 Mr. Chalmers is still actively engaged in his work on 
 the great island, and he has placed many of his journals 
 and papers at the disposal of the Religious Tract 
 Society, in the hope that their publication may increase 
 the general store of knowledge about New Guinea, and 
 may also give true ideas about the natives, the kind of 
 Christian work that is being done in their midst, and 
 the progress in it that is being made. The first, and 
 much the larger, part of this volume is from Mr. 
 Chalmers’ pen. 
 
14 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 In 1884, the Eev. W. Wyatt Gill, B.A., the well- 
 known South Sea missionary, author of ‘ Life in the 
 Southern Isles,’ visited New Guinea, to see how the 
 native teachers, many of whom he had himself trained 
 for the work, were doing the work of the Gospel, and 
 what progress had been made by the mission generally 
 in the last ten years. The second part of this volume 
 is from his pen; and in it he shows how rapid and 
 remarkable the growth of the work has been, giving, 
 at the same time, many interesting and valuable state- 
 ments about the beliefs and practices of the natives, and 
 about the specialties of animal and vegetable life to be 
 found in Southern New Guinea. 
 
 But the prominence which New Guinea has assumed 
 in the public mind lately is due much more to political 
 than to religious reasons. England is a Christian 
 nation, and there are numbers who rejoice in New 
 Guinea as a signal proof of the regenerating power of 
 the Gospel of Christ. Yet, to the Christian man, it is 
 somewhat humiliating to find how deeply the press of 
 our country is stirred by the statement that Germany 
 lias annexed the north coast of New Guinea, while it 
 has hardly been touched by the thrilling story of the 
 introduction of Christianity all along the south coast. 
 The public mind is much exercised in discussing 
 whether Her Majesty’s Government should annex the 
 whole rather than proclaim a protectorate over a part ; 
 it hardly cares to remember the names of those who 
 have died in trying to make known to the fierce 
 Papuans our common brotherhood in Christ Jesus. 
 One can understand that this is natural ; still, it will be 
 an augury of good for the future of the English people, 
 when, without losing any of their legitimate interest in 
 
VIEWS ON AN NEK A TION. 
 
 15 
 
 public affairs, they care more for the victories won by 
 faith alone, over ignorance, vice, and barbarism, than 
 for the victories won by the rifle and sword, however 
 just the cause may be in which these weapons are used. 
 
 For years past the idea has been gaining force in the 
 public mind, both in the colonies and at home, that 
 ultimately England would annex New Guinea. To any 
 careful student of our history for the last century, it 
 may appear strange that we have not done so long- 
 before. Our practice in the past has been to annex first, 
 and to find reasons for it afterwards. To others, the 
 very fact that even now the extremest step is only to 
 proclaim a protectorate over a part, may appear to 
 indicate that we are not quite so sure as we have been 
 that annexation is wholly a blessing either to us or to 
 the land annexed. 
 
 As already noted, in 1873 Captain Moresby did 
 good service by accurately laying down the coast-line 
 of Eastern New Guinea. In accomplishing this, he 
 discovered that there were several beautiful islands 
 that had hitherto been considered part of the mainland. 
 It is best perhaps to give what followed in his own 
 words : — 
 
 ‘ The importance of our discoveries led me to consider 
 their bearing on Imperial and Australian interests. 
 There lay the vast island of New Guinea, dominating 
 the shores of Northern Australia, separated at one point 
 by only twenty miles of coral reef from British posses- 
 sions, commanding the Torres Straits route, commanding 
 the increasing pearl-shell fisheries, and also the beclic- 
 de-mcr fishery. It was also improved by the richness 
 and beauty, and the number of their fine vegetable 
 products — fine timber, the cocoa-nut, the sago palm, 
 
i6 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 sugar-cane, maize, jute, and various vegetable fibres, 
 fruits and rich grasses — and my conclusion, after 
 weighing all the considerations involved was, that it 
 way my duty to take formal possession of our discoveries 
 in the name of Her Majesty. Such a course secured a 
 postponement of occupation by any Power till our 
 Government could consider its own interests, and whilst 
 the acquisition of these islands might commend itself, 
 and my act result in annexation on the one hand, it 
 might be negatived on the other with easy simplicity, 
 by a neglect to confirm it.’ 
 
 Accordingly a cocoa-nut tree was transformed into a 
 flagstaff, the British flag was run up, and duly saluted 
 with cheers and volleys, and a picture of the proceeding 
 adorns the captain’s book as frontispiece. 
 
 Ever since that time events have tended in the 
 direction of bringing Hew Guinea into closer relations 
 with England. On the one hand, there has been the 
 conviction that if we do not annex it some other 
 country will, and thus threaten Australia. Then many 
 Australians have looked upon New Guinea as a possible 
 paradise for colonists, and have been eager to establish 
 themselves securely upon its soil. The attempts in 
 this direction have produced little but disaster to all 
 concerned. 
 
 On the other hand, missionaries feel that there is 
 much to be said on the same side. Perhaps the opinion 
 of no one man deserves more weight than that of Mr. 
 Chalmers. We give his views, as he expressed them 
 before the protectorate was proclaimed. 
 
 ‘ This question of the annexation of New Guinea is 
 still creating a good deal of interest, and although at 
 present the Imperial Government, through Lord Derby, 
 
MR. CHALMERS' VIEWS. 
 
 17 
 
 has given its decision against annexation, yet the 
 whole matter must, I have no doubt, be reconsidered, 
 and the island be eventually annexed. It is to be 
 hoped the country is not to become part of the 
 Australian colonies — a labour land, and a land where 
 loose money in the hands of a few capitalists is to 
 enter in and make enormous fortunes, sacrificing the 
 natives and everything else. If the Imperial Govern- 
 ment is afraid of the expense, I think that can easily 
 be avoided. Annex New Guinea, and save it from 
 another power, who might harass our Australian 
 colonies ; administer it for the natives, and the whole 
 machinery of government can be maintained by New 
 Guinea, and allow a large overplus. We have all the 
 ^ experience of the Dutch in Java ; I say, accept and 
 improve. 
 
 ‘ It will be said that, as a nation, Britain has never 
 tried to govern commercially, or has not yet made 
 money out of her governing; and why should she 
 now ? She does not want New Guinea. Why should 
 she go to the expense of governing ? Her colonies 
 may be unsafe with a country of splendid harbours so 
 near in the hands of a foreign power, and the people of 
 that country need a strong, friendly, and just power 
 over them, to save them from themselves and from the 
 white man — whose gods are gold and land, and to whom 
 the black man is a nuisance to be got rid of as soon 
 as possible. Let Britain for these reasons annex, and 
 from the day of annexation New Guinea will pay all 
 her own expenses ; the expenses of the first three years 
 to be paid with compound interest at the end of that 
 period. 
 
 ‘ Let us begin by recognising all native rights, and 
 
 c 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 letting it be distinctly understood that we govern for 
 the native races, not the white men, that we are 
 determined to civilise and raise to a higher level of 
 humanity those whom we govern, that our aim will be 
 to do all to defend them and save them from exter- 
 mination by just humanitarian laws — not the laws of 
 the British nation — but the laws suited for them. It 
 will not take long for the natives to learn that not only 
 are we great and powerful, but we are just and merciful, 
 and we seek their good. 
 
 ‘ That established, I would suggest appointing officers 
 in every district, whose duty it would be to govern 
 through the native chief, and see that every native 
 attended to plantations. A native planting tea, sugar, 
 coffee, maize, cinchona, etc., to be allowed a bounty, 
 and when returns arrived to be allowed so much per 
 pound sterling. All these things to be superintended 
 by the said officer. 
 
 ‘ Traders would soon swarm, but no one should be 
 allowed to trade with natives directly, but only through 
 the Government. 
 
 ‘ All unoccupied land to belong to the Government, 
 and to be leased to those wishing land. No native 
 should be allowed to part with land, and if desirous to 
 sell, then only to the Government, who would allow him 
 a reasonable price. Every land transaction to be made 
 through Government ; no land to be sold, only leased. 
 
 ‘ The land revenue will be immense, and after paying 
 all expenses, will leave much for improvements and 
 the education of the people. Stringent laws passed 
 directly annexation takes place to prevent importation 
 of arms and spirits, will be a true safeguard for the 
 natives. 
 
PROCLAIMING THE PROTECTORATE. 19 
 
 ‘ As a nation, let Britain, in the zenith of her power 
 and greatness, think kindly of the native races, and 
 now for once in her history rule this great island for 
 right and righteousness, in justice and mercy, and not 
 for self and pelf in unrighteousness, blood, and false- 
 hood. It is to be hoped that future generations of 
 New Guinea natives will not rise up to condemn her, 
 as the New Zealanders have done, and to claim their 
 ancient rights with tears now unheeded. I can see 
 alone; the vista of the future, truth and righteousness in 
 Britain’s hands, and the inhabitants of New Guinea yet 
 unborn blessing her for her rule ; if otherwise, God 
 help the British meanness, for they will rise to pro- 
 nounce a curse on her for ever ! ’ 
 
 In 1883, the Queensland Government did formally 
 annex their huge neighbour; but this act was subse- 
 quently repudiated by the Home Government. Towards 
 the end of 1884, it was decided to announce a formal 
 protectorate over a large portion of the southern shores 
 of New Guinea. 
 
 The official ceremony took place on Nov. Gth, 1884, 
 at Port Moresby. Five ships of war at once gave 
 dignity to the proceeding by their presence, and 
 astonished the natives by their salutes. About fifty 
 chiefs were brought on board the Commodore’s ship, the 
 Nelson, by the Bev. W. G. Lawes. To Boevagi, the 
 chief of the Port Moresby tribe, was entrusted the 
 responsibility of upholding the authority and dignity of 
 England in the island. He was presented with an 
 ebony stick, into the top of which had been let a 
 florin with the Queen’s head uppermost. Mr. Lawes 
 conveyed to Boevagi the meaning of the Commodore’s 
 words when he gave the stick. ‘ I present you with 
 
 c 2 
 
20 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 this stick, which is to be an emblem of your authority ; 
 and all the tribes who are represented by the chiefs 
 here are to look to the holder of this stick. Boevagi, 
 this stick represents the Queen of England, and if 
 at any time any of the people of these tribes have 
 the grievance or anything to say, they are, through 
 
 BOEVAGI, CHIEF OF TORT MORESBY. 
 
 any holder of this stick, to make it known to the 
 Queen’s officers, in order that it may be inquired 
 into.’ 
 
 The formal protectorate was announced in the follow- 
 ing terms : — 
 
 ‘ To all to whom these presents shall come, greeting : 
 — Whereas it has become essential for the lives and 
 properties of the native inhabitants of New Guinea, and 
 for the purpose of preventing the occupation of portions of 
 
THE SCHEDULE. 
 
 21 
 
 that country by persons whose proceedings, unsanctioned 
 by any lawful authority, might tend to injustice, strife, 
 and bloodshed, and who, under the pretence of legitimate 
 trade and intercourse, might endanger the liberties and 
 possess themselves of the lands of such native inhabi- 
 tants, that a British protectorate should be established 
 over a certain portion of such country and the islands 
 adjacent thereto ; and whereas Her Majesty, having taken 
 into her gracious consideration the urgent necessity of 
 her protection to such inhabitants, has directed me to 
 proclaim such protection in a formal manner at this 
 place, — now I, James Elphinstone Erskine, Captain in 
 the Eoyal Navy and Commodore of the Australian 
 Station, one of Her Majesty’s naval aides-de-camp, do 
 hereby, in the name of Her most Gracious Majesty, 
 declare and proclaim the establishment of such pro- 
 tectorate over such portions of the coast and the 
 adjacent islands as is more particularly described in the 
 schedule hereunto annexed ; and I hereby proclaim and 
 declare that no acquisition of land, whensoever or how- 
 soever acquired, within the limits of the protectorate 
 hereby established will be recognised by Her Majesty ; 
 and I do hereby, on behalf of Her Majesty, command 
 and enjoin all persons whom it may concern to take 
 notice of this proclamation. 
 
 ‘ Schedule. 
 
 ‘ All that portion of the southern shores of New Guinea 
 commencing from the boundary of that portion of the 
 country claimed by the Government of the Netherlands 
 on the 141st meridian of east longitude to East Cape, 
 with all the islands adjacent thereto south of East Cape 
 
22 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 to Kosmann Island inclusive, together with the islands 
 in the Gosclien Straits. 
 
 ‘ Given on hoard Her Majesty’s ship Nelson, at the 
 harbour of Port Moresby, on the 6th day of November, 
 1884.’ 
 
 The die has thus been cast. Already rumours that 
 seem to have some foundation are in the air that the 
 protectorate is soon to become annexation. It should 
 be the aim of all to see that, by the force of public 
 opinion, the last portion of the heathen world that has 
 come under English protection shall have, as the years 
 pass, many and solid reasons for thanking God that He 
 has so guided its destinies as to unite them to our great 
 Empire. 
 
 The map prefixed to the book is based, by the kind 
 permission of the London Missionary Society, upon one 
 issued by them in 1882. It is enriched by the in- 
 corporation of many discoveries made by Mr. Chalmers 
 in the course of his recent journeys. 
 

JIUUUAY ISLAND, 
 
NEW GUINEA. 
 
 PART I. 
 
 EXPLORATIONS IN NEW GUINEA. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 EARLY EXPERIENCES. 
 
 Somerset— Murray Island— Darnley Island — Boera— Port Moresby 
 — Trip inland— Sunday at Port Moresby — Native funeral cere- 
 monies — Tupuselei — Round Head— Native salutations — Kere- 
 punu — Teste Island — Hoop-iron as an article of commerce — 
 Two teachers landed — A tabooed place — Moresby and Basilisk 
 Islands — South Cape — House building — Difficulties with the 
 natives — An anxious moment — Thefts — Dancing and cooking 
 —Visit to a native village — Native shot on the Mayri— 
 Mr. and Mrs. Chalmers in danger— Arrival of the Ellengowau. 
 
 Towards the close of 1877, Mr. Chalmers and Mr. 
 McFarlane visited Hew Guinea for the purpose of 
 exploring the coast, landing native teachers at suitable 
 spots, and thus opening the way for future missionary 
 eiiort. What follows is given in Mr. Chalmers’ 
 words : — 
 
 We left Sydney by the Dutch steamer William 
 M'Kinnon, on September 20th, 1877, for Somerset. 
 The sail inside the Barrier Reef is most enjoyable. 
 The numerous islands passed, and the varied coast 
 
26 
 
 EARLY EXPERIENCES. 
 
 scenery make tlie voyage a very pleasant one — 
 especially with such men as our captain and mates. 
 On Sunday, the 30th, we reached Somerset, where 
 we were met by the Bertha, with Mr. McFarlane on 
 board of her. Mr. McFarlane was soon on board of 
 the steamer to welcome us, and remained with us till 
 the evening. There was very little of the Sabbath 
 observed that day — all was bustle and confusion. 
 Ouite a number of the pearl-shelling boats were at 
 Somerset awaiting the arrival of the steamer, and the 
 masters of these boats were soon on and around the 
 steamer receiving their goods. 
 
 On Tuesday, October 2nd, we left Somerset in the 
 Bertha for Murray Island, anchoring that night off 
 Albany. On 'Wednesday night we anchored off a 
 sandbank, and on Thursday off a miserable-looking 
 island, called Village Island. On Friday we came to 
 York Island, where we went ashore and saw only four 
 natives — one man and three boys. At eleven P.M. on 
 Saturday we anchored at Darnley Island. This is a 
 fine island, and more suitable for vessels and landing 
 goods than Murray, but supposed to be not so healthy. 
 The island is about 500 feet in height, in some parts 
 tliickly wooded, in others hare. It was here the natives 
 cut off a boat’s crew about thirty years ago, for which 
 they suffered — the captain landing with part of his 
 crew, well-armed, killing many and chasing them right 
 round the island. They never again attempted any- 
 thing of the kind. As a native of the island expressed 
 himself on the subject : — ‘ White fellow, he too much 
 make fright, man he all run away, no want see white 
 fellow gun no more.’ In 1871 the first teachers were 
 landed here. 
 
DARNLEY ISLAND. 
 
 
 The Sunday morning was fine, and we resolved to 
 spend a quiet forenoon on shore. We landed after 
 breakfast, and walked through what must be in wet 
 weather a deep swamp, to the mission house on the hill. 
 Gucheng, the Loyalty islander, who is teacher here, 
 looks a good determined fellow. The people seem to 
 live not far from the mission house, so did not take long 
 to assemble. There were about eighty at the service, 
 including a few Australians employed by one of the 
 white men on the island to fish for. trepang. The 
 Darnley islanders appear a much more interesting 
 people than the Australians. Many of those present 
 at the service were clothed. They sang very well 
 indeed such hymns as ‘ Come to Jesus,’ ‘ Canaan, 
 bright Canaan,’ which, with some others, have been 
 translated into their language. Mr. McFarlane ad- 
 dressed them, through the teacher, and the people 
 seemed to attend to what was said. 
 
 Because of a strong head wind we could not leave 
 the next day, so Mr. McFarlane and I returned to the 
 shore. We found the children collected in Guclieng’s 
 house, learning to write the letters on slates. There 
 were very few girls present — indeed, there are not many 
 girls on the island, so many have been destroyed by 
 their fathers at birth. We strolled about and "visited 
 the large cocoanut plantation belonging to the society. 
 On our return we found the teacher and a number of 
 natives collected near the beach. They had just buried 
 a man who had died the ' night before — so Christian 
 burial has begun. Formerly, the body would have 
 been hung up and tapped, to allow the juices to run 
 out, which would have been drunk by the friends. We 
 returned to the mission house for dinner. I was glad 
 
28 
 
 EARLY EXPERIENCES. 
 
 to find so many boys living with Gucheng. They u T ere 
 bright, happy little fellows, romping about, enjoying 
 themselves. 
 
 We did not get away from Darnley Island till the 
 morning of Wednesday, the 10th. The navigation 
 between Darnley and Murray Islands is difficult, arising 
 from various reefs and currents. Although only twenty- 
 seven miles separate the two, it was Friday night 
 before we anchored at Murray Island. We went ashore 
 the same night. 
 
 On Saturday we climbed to the highest point of the 
 island, 700 feet high. There seems to be no lack of 
 food, chiefly grown inland. From the long drought, 
 the island presented in many places a parched look, 
 and lacked that luxuriance of vegetation to which we 
 had been so long accustomed on Barotonga. 
 
 At the forenoon meeting on Sunday there were nearly 
 200 present. Mr. McFarlane preached. A few had a 
 little clothing on them ; some seemed attentive, but the 
 most seemed to consider the occasion a fit time for 
 relating the week’s news, or of commenting on the 
 strangers present. The Sabbath is observed by church 
 attendance and a cessation from work. There is not 
 much thieving on the island; they are an indolent 
 people. The school is well attended by old and young, 
 and Josiah, the teacher, has quite a number of children 
 living with him. They sing very well. 
 
 Several of the old men here wear wigs. It seems 
 when grey hairs appear they are carefully pulled out ; 
 as time moves on they increase so fast that they would 
 require to shave the head often, so, to cover their shame, 
 they take to wigs, which represent them as having 
 long, flowing, curly hair, as in youth. Wigs would not 
 
BOERA. 
 
 29 
 
 astonish the Murray islanders, as Mr. Notts did the 
 Tahitians after his return from England. They soon 
 spread the news round the island that their missionary 
 had had his head newly thatched, and looked a young 
 man again. 
 
 On Monday the teachers’ goods and mission supplies 
 were put on board the Bertha. On Tuesday afternoon, 
 after everything was on board, a farewell service was 
 held with the teachers, and early on Wednesday morn- 
 ing we left Murray Island for New Guinea. On 
 Friday we made New Guinea, off Yule Island, and 
 about sunset on Oct. 21st we anchored about five miles 
 off Boera. Near to the place where we anchored was a 
 low swampy ground covered with mangrove. We could 
 see Lealea, where there has been so much sickness. It 
 presented the same low, swampy, unhealthy appearance. 
 Soon after we anchored a canoe came alongside with 
 Mr. Lawes and Piri on board. Mr. Lawes did not seem 
 so strong as I remembered him eleven years ago, yet he 
 looked better than I had expected to see him. He has 
 suffered greatly from the climate. Piri is a strong, 
 hearty fellow ; the climate seems to have had little 
 effect on him. They remained some time on board, 
 when they went ashore in the vessel’s boat — Piri taking 
 the teachers and their wives ashore with him. The 
 wind was ahead, and too strong for the canoe, so the 
 men who came off in her with Mr. Lawes and Piri 
 remained on board the Bertha till midnight, when the 
 wind abated. When the boat was leaving they shouted 
 to Mr. Lawes to tell us not to be afraid, as they would 
 not steal anything. They remained quietly on board 
 till two A.M. 
 
 Mr. McFarlane and I went ashore in the morning. 
 
30 EARL Y EXPERIENCES. 
 
 The country looked bare and not at all inviting. This 
 is now the most western mission station on New 
 Guinea proper. Piri has a very comfortable house, 
 with a plantation near to it. The chapel, built prin- 
 cipally by himself and wife, is small, but comfortable, 
 and well suited for the climate. The children meet in 
 it for school. The village has a very dirty, tumble- 
 down appearance. 
 
 HOUSE OF 1’IEI AT BOEIiA. 
 
 The widows of two teachers who died last year 
 shortly after their arrival in the mission were living 
 with Piri. We took them on board, with their things, 
 to accompany us to the new mission. I returned 
 ashore with the boat to fetch away the remainder of 
 the things and teachers who were ashore, and when 
 ready to return found the vessel too far off to fetch her, 
 so, after pulling for some time, we up sail and away for 
 Port Moresby. Piri and his wife came with us in 
 
LANDING AT PORT MORESBY. 
 
 3i 
 
 their large canoe. We saw several clugongs on the 
 way, which some esteem extra good food. Tom, one of 
 the Loyalty Island teachers, who was in the boat with 
 ns, expressed their edible qualities thus : ‘ You know, 
 sir, pig lie good.’ ‘ Yes, Tom, it is very good.’ ‘ Ah, 
 he no good ; dugong, he much good.’ It must be good 
 when a native pronounces it to be better than pork. 
 
 AA r e arrived at Port Moresby about six o’clock. I 
 cannot say I was much charmed with the place, it had 
 such a burnt-up, barren appearance. Close to the 
 village is a mangrove swamp, and the whole bay is 
 enclosed with high hills. At the back of the mission 
 premises, and close to them, is a large swampy place, 
 which in wet weather is full of water. There can be 
 no doubt about Port Moresby being a very unhealthy 
 place. AYe went ashore for breakfast next, day, and in 
 the afternoon visited the school ; about forty children 
 were present — an unusually large number. Many of 
 the children know the alphabet, and a few can spell 
 words of two or three letters. In walking through 
 the village in the afternoon we saw the women making 
 their crockery pots, preparing for the men’s return 
 from the Gulf, the next north-west season, with large 
 quantities of sago. AYe visited the graves of the 
 teachers, which are kept in good order. They are all 
 enclosed by a good fence. AYithin the same enclosure 
 is one little grave that will bind New Guinea close to 
 tire hearts of Air. and Mrs. Lawes. Over them all may 
 be written — ‘ For Christ’s sake.’ 
 
 In returning from the graves we met a man in 
 mourning, whose wife had been killed in a canoe by 
 natives about Pound Head. He and his friends had 
 resolved to retaliate, but through the influence of the 
 
32 
 
 EARLY EXPERIENCES. 
 
 teachers they did not do so. The teachers from the 
 villages to the east of Port Moresby came in this after- 
 noon, looking well and hearty. Some of them have 
 suffered a good deal from fever and ague, but are now 
 becoming acclimatised. The natives of the various 
 villages are not now afraid of one another, but accom- 
 pany their teachers from place to place. Men, women, 
 and children smoke, and will do anything for tobacco. 
 The best present you can give them is tobacco ; it is 
 the one thing for which they beg. 
 
 As it was decided that the vessel should not leave 
 before Tuesday of the next week, Mr. McFarlane and 
 I took a trip inland. I was anxious to see for myself 
 if anything could be done for the natives living in the 
 mountains. Mr. Goldie, a naturalist, with his party, was 
 about ten miles inland. He himself had been at Port 
 Moresby for some days, and, on hearing of our plans, he 
 joined us, and we proceeded first to his camp. We left 
 Port Moresby about half-past five on Thursday morning, 
 and crossed the low ground at the back of the mission 
 house. We ascended the hill which runs all along the 
 coast in this district at a part about 300 feet high, and 
 then descended into a great plain. At present tire 
 plain is dry and hard, from the long drought, and very 
 little of anything green is to be seen. There are a few 
 small gum trees, and great herds of wallabies were 
 jumping about. The greater part of this plain is under 
 water in the wet seasons. We walked about ten miles 
 in an east-north-east direction, keeping the Astrolabe 
 Kange to our right, when we came to the camp, close 
 by a large river — the Laroki. Being afraid of alligators, 
 we preferred having water poured over us to bathing 
 in the river. 
 
AN INLAND JOURNEY. 
 
 33 
 
 Our party was a tolerably large one — Ruatoka (the 
 Port Moresby teacher), some Port Moresby natives, 
 and four Loyalty Island teachers, on their way to East 
 Cape. We did not see a strange native all the way. 
 We had our hammocks made fast in the bush by the 
 river side, and rested until three P.M., when we started for 
 another part of the river about seven miles off', in a 
 south-east direction. Mr. Goldie also shifted his camp. 
 After sunset we reached the point where the river was 
 to be crossed, and there we meant to remain for the 
 night. 
 
 O 
 
 We had a bath, then supper, and evening prayers ; 
 after which we slung our hammocks to the trees, in 
 which we rested well. It was a strangely weird-look- 
 ing sight, and the noises were of a strange kind — walla- 
 bies leaping past, and strange birds overhead. Mr. 
 Goldie’s Mare men joined with their countrymen, the 
 teachers, in singing some of Sankey’s hymns in English. 
 Soon sleep came, and all seemed quiet. 
 
 At three a.m. of the 26th we struck camp, and after 
 morning prayers we began to cross the river, which was 
 not over four feet in the deepest part. It was here Mr. 
 Lawes crossed when he first visited the inland tribes ; 
 so now, led by Ruatoka, we were on his track. The 
 moon was often hidden by dark clouds, so we had some 
 difficulty in keeping to the path. We pressed on, as we 
 were anxious to get to a deserted village which Mr. 
 Goldie knew to breakfast. We reached the village 
 about six, and after we had partaken of breakfast we 
 set off for the mountains. When we had gone about 
 four miles the road became more uneven. Wallabies 
 were not to be seen, and soon we were in a valley close 
 by the river, which we followed for a long way, and 
 
 D 
 
34 - 
 
 EARLY EXPERIENCES. 
 
 then began to ascend. We climbed it under a burning 
 sun, Kuatoka calling out, Tepiake, tepiake, tepiake 
 (Friends, friends, friends). Armed natives soon appeared 
 on the ridge shouting, Misi Lao, Misi Lao. Kuatoka 
 called back, Misi Lao (Mr. Lawes), and all was right — 
 spears were put away and they came to meet us, escort- 
 ing us to a sort of reception room, where we all squatted, 
 glad to get in the shade from the sun. 
 
 We were now about 1,100 feet above the sea level. 
 We were surprised to see their houses built on the 
 highest tree-tops they could find on the top of the ridge. 
 One of the teachers remarked, ‘ Queer fellows these ; not 
 only do they live on the mountain tops, but they must 
 select the highest trees they can find for their houses.’ 
 W e were very soon friends ; they seemed at ease, some 
 smoking tobacco, others chewing betel-nuts. I changed 
 my shirt, and when those near me saw my white skin 
 they raised a shout that soon brought the others round. 
 Bartering soon began — taro, sugar cane, sweet yams, 
 and water w T ere got in exchange for tobacco, beads, and 
 cloth. 
 
 After resting about two hours, we proceeded to the next 
 village, five miles further along the ridge. Some of our 
 party were too tired to accompany us ; they remained 
 where we expected to camp for the night. After walk- 
 ing some miles we came unexpectedly on some natives. 
 As soon as they saw us they rushed for their spears, and 
 seemed determined to dispute our way. By a number 
 of signs — touching our chins with our right hands, &c. — 
 they understood we were not foes, so they soon became 
 friendly. They had their faces blackened with soot, 
 plumbago, and gum, and then sprinkled over with 
 white ; their mouths and teeth were in a terrible mess 
 
NATIVE HOSPITALITY. 
 
 35 
 
 from chewing the betel nut. On our leaving them, they 
 shouted on to the next village. An old man lay outside 
 on the platform of the next house we came to ; he 
 looked terribly frightened as we approached him, but as, 
 instead of injuring him we gave him a present, he soon 
 rallied and got us water to drink. By-and-by a few 
 gathered round. We understood them to say the most 
 of the people were away on the plains hunting for 
 wallabies. One young woman had a net over her 
 shoulders and covering her breasts, as a token of mourn- 
 ing — an improvement on their ordinary attire, which is 
 simply a short grass petticoat — the men nil. 
 
 After a short stay, we returned to where we thought 
 of camping for the night, but for want of water we 
 went on to the village we had visited in the forenoon. 
 We slung our hammocks in the reception room, had 
 supper, and turned in for the night. It felt bleak and 
 cold, and the narrowness of the ridge made us careful, 
 even in our sleep, lest we should fall out and over. On 
 coming across the highest peak in the afternoon, we 
 had a magnificent view of Mount Owen Stanley, with 
 his two peaks rising far away above the other mountains 
 by which he is surrounded. It must have been about 
 thirty miles off, and, I should think, impossible to reach 
 from where we were. We were entirely surrounded by 
 mountains : mountains north, east, south, and west — 
 above us and below us. I question if it will ever be a 
 country worth settling in. 
 
 We were anxious to spend the Sabbath at Port 
 Moresby, so, leaving the most of our party, who were 
 too tired to come with us, to rest till Monday, Mr. 
 McFarlane, Euatoka, and I set oft' on our return very 
 early on Saturday morning, and had strangely difficult 
 
EARLY EXPERIENCES. 
 
 3 6 
 
 work in getting down the mountain side and along the 
 river. Fireflies danced all round in hundreds, and we 
 awakened many strange birds before their time, which 
 gave forth a note or two, only to sleep again. Before 
 daylight, we were at Mr. Goldie’s camp, where we had 
 breakfast, and hurried on for the river. We rested a 
 short time there, and then away over plains to Port 
 Moresby, which we reached about mid-day, tired indeed 
 and very footsore. Oh, that shoemakers had only to 
 wear the boots they send to missionaries ! 
 
 Early on Sunday morning, a great many natives went 
 out with their spears, nets and dogs, to hunt wallabies. 
 A goodly number attended the forenoon service, when 
 Mr. Lawes preached. A good many strangers were 
 present from an inland village on the Astrolabe side. 
 There is not yet much observance of the Sabbath. Poi, 
 one of the chief men of the place, is very friendly : he 
 kept quite a party of his inland friends from hunting, 
 and brought them to the services. Mr. Lawes preached 
 again in the afternoon. As we went to church in 
 the afternoon the hunters were returning: they had 
 evidently had a successful day’s hunting. During the 
 day a canoe came in from Hula, laden with old cocoa- 
 nuts, which were traded for pottery. 
 
 In the evening, an old sorceress died, and great was 
 the wailing over her body. She was buried on the 
 Monday morning, just opposite the house in which she 
 lived. A grave was dug two feet deep, and spread over 
 with mats, on which the corpse was laid. Her husband 
 lay on the body, in the grave, for some time, and, after 
 some talking to the departed spirit, got up, and lay 
 down by the side of the grave, covered with a mat. 
 About mid-day, the grave was covered over with the 
 
NEW GUINEA VEGETATION. 
 
 37 
 
 earth, and friends sat on it weeping. The relatives of 
 the dead put on mourning by blackening their bodies 
 all over, and besmearing them with ashes. 
 
 On the 31st, the Bertha left for Kerepunu. As I was 
 anxious to see all the mission stations along the coast 
 between Port Moresby and Kerepunu, I remained, to 
 accompany Mr. Lawes in the small schooner Mayri. 
 We left on the following day, and sailed down the coast 
 inside the reef. We arrived at Tupuselei about mid- 
 day. There were two teachers here, and Mr. Lawes 
 having decided to remove one, we got him on board, 
 and sailed for Kaili. The villages of Tupuselei and 
 Kaili are quite in the sea. I fear they are very 
 unhealthy — mangroves and low swampy ground abound. 
 The Astrolabe Range is not far from the shore we were 
 sailing along all day. There is a fine bold coast line, 
 with many bays. 
 
 In the early morning our small vessel of only seven 
 tons was crowded with natives. We left the vessel 
 about nine A.M. for a walk inland, accompanied by a 
 number of natives, who all went to their houses for 
 their arms before they would leave their village. They 
 have no faith whatever in one another. We passed 
 through a large swamp covered with mangroves — then 
 into a dense tropical bush, passing through a large 
 grove of sago palms and large mango trees. The 
 mangoes were small — about the size of a plum — and very 
 sweet. At some distance inland I took up a peculiar- 
 looking seed ; one of the natives, thinking I was going 
 to eat it, very earnestly urged me to throw it away, 
 and with signs gave me to understand that if I ate it I 
 should swell out to an enormous size, and die. 
 
 We walked about seven miles through bush, and then 
 
38 
 
 EARLY EXPERIENCES. 
 
 began the ascent of one of the spurs of the Astrolabe. 
 On nearing the inland village for which we were bound, 
 the natives became somewhat afraid, and the leader 
 stopped, and, turning to Mr. Lawes, asked him if he 
 would indeed not kill any of the people. He was 
 assured all was right, and then he moved on a few 
 paces, to stop again, and re-enquire if all was right. 
 When reassured, we all went on, not a word spoken by 
 anyone, and so in silence we entered the village. When 
 we were observed, spears began rattling in the houses ; 
 but our party shouted, Maino, maino (Peace, peace), Misi 
 Lao, Misi Lao. The women escaped through the trap- 
 doors in the floors of their houses, and away down the 
 side of the hill into the bush. We reached the chiefs 
 house, and there remained. 
 
 The people soon regained confidence, and came round 
 us, wondering greatly at the first white men they had 
 ever seen in their village. The women returned from 
 their flight, and began to cook food, which, when ready, 
 they brought to us, and of which we all heartily partook. 
 We gave them presents, and they would not suffer us to 
 depart till they had brought us a return present of 
 uncooked food. They are a fine, healthy-looking people, 
 lighter than those on the coast. Many were in deep 
 mourning, and frightfully besmeared. There are a 
 number of villages close by, on the various ridges. 
 We returned by a different way, following the bed of 
 what must be in the rainy season a large river. The 
 banks were in many places from eight to nine feet high. 
 
 On the following morning, Nov. 3rd, we weighed 
 anchor and set sail, passing Kapakapa, a double village 
 in the sea. The houses are large and well built. There 
 are numerous villages on the hills at the back of it, and 
 
NA T I VE S A L UT A T IONS. 
 
 39 
 
 not too far away to be visited. We anchored off Round 
 Head, which does not, as represented on the charts, rise 
 boldly from the sea. There is a plain between two 
 and three miles broad between the sea and the hill 
 called Round Head. There are many villages on the 
 hills along this part of the coast. We anchored close 
 to the shore. A number of natives were on the beach, 
 but could not be induced to visit us on board. We 
 went ashore to them after dinner. They knew Mr. 
 Lawes by name only, and became more easy Avhen he 
 assured them that he was really and truly Misi Lao. 
 They professed friendship by calling out, Merino, maino, 
 catching hold of their noses, and pointing to their 
 stomachs. After a little time, two ventured to accom- 
 pany Mr. Lawes on board, and received presents. I 
 remained ashore astonishing others by striking matches, 
 and showing off my arms and chest. The women were 
 so frightened that they all kept at a respectful distance. 
 These are the natives from an inland village that killed 
 a Port Moresby native about the beginning of the year. 
 When those who accompanied Mr. Lawes on board the 
 Mayri returned to the shore, they were instantly 
 surrounded by their friends, who seized the presents 
 and made off. They had received fish, biscuit, and taro. 
 The taro and fish were smelt all over, and carefully 
 examined before eaten. The biscuit was Avrapped up 
 again in the paper. 
 
 On Sunday, the 4th, we were beating down through 
 innumerable reefs, and at eight p.m. w T e anchored about 
 three miles from Hula. The folio win" morning we 
 AA r ent up to the village, the Mayri anchoring close by 
 the houses. The country about here looks fine and 
 green, a very striking contrast to that around Port 
 
40 
 
 EARL V EXPERIENCES. 
 
 Moresby. The further east we get from Port Moresby, 
 the finer the country looks. The people are also 
 superior — finer made men and women, and really pretty 
 boys and girls — more, altogether, like our eastern South 
 Sea Islanders. The married women spoil their looks 
 by keeping their heads shaven. They seem fond of 
 their children : men and women nurse them. They 
 were busy preparing their large canoes to visit Port 
 Moresby, on the return of the Port Moresby canoes from 
 the west with sago. 
 
 About three in the afternoon an old woman made 
 her appearance at the door of the mission house, bawl- 
 ing out, ‘ Well, what liars these Hula people are ; some of 
 them were inland this morning, and the chief asked 
 them if Misi Lao had come, and they said no.’ The 
 chief, who saw the vessel from the hill top where his 
 village is, thought it strange the vessel should be there 
 without Misi Lao, so sent this woman to learn the truth. 
 She received a present for herself and the chief, and 
 went away quite happy. 
 
 Next morning, Nov. 6tli, we left Hula with a fair wind, 
 and were anchored close to Kerepunu by nine a.m. The 
 Bertha was anchored fully two miles off. Kerepunu is 
 a magnificent place, and its people are very fine-looking. 
 It is one large town of seven districts, with fine houses, 
 all arranged in streets, crotons and other plants 
 growing about, and cockatoos perching in front of 
 nearly every house. One part of the population plant, 
 another fish, and the planters buy the fish with their 
 produce. Men, women and children are all workers ; 
 they go to their plantations in the morning and return 
 to their homes in the evening, only sick ones remaining 
 at home ; thus accounting for the number of scrofulous 
 
TESTE ISLAND. 
 
 4r 
 
 people we saw going about when we first landed. They 
 have a rule, to which they strictly adhere all the year 
 round, of working for two days and resting the 
 third. 
 
 The Bertha arrived here on Friday evening. Mrs. 
 Chalmers was at the forenoon service on the Sunday, and 
 found there a large congregation. The service was 
 held on the platform of one of the largest houses. 
 Anedered preached, a number sitting on the platform, 
 others in the house, others on the ground all round, and 
 many at the doors of their own houses, where they 
 could hear all that was said. 
 
 Mr. Lawes decided to remain at Kerepunu to revise 
 for the press a small book Anedered has been preparing, 
 and to follow us to Teste Island in the Ellengowan. 
 We left Kerepunu on the morning of Nov. 8th, the 
 Mayri leaving at the same time, to sail down inside the 
 surf. We went right out to sea, so as to beat down, 
 had fine weather, and were off Teste Island by the 16th, 
 After dinner we took the boat, and with the captain 
 went in on the east side of the island through the reef, 
 to sound and find anchorage. 
 
 When we reached the lagoon a catamaran with three 
 natives on it came off to us. We asked for Koitan, the 
 chief, which at once gave them confidence in us, so that 
 they came alongside, one getting into the boat. He 
 expressed his friendship to us in the usual way, viz., 
 by touching his nose and stomach, and, being very 
 much excited, seized hold of Mr. McFarlane and rubbed 
 noses with him, doing the same to me. He received a 
 present of a piece of hoop-iron and some red braid, which 
 greatly pleased him. We found the water was deep 
 enough over the reef for the vessel, and good anchorage 
 
42 
 
 EARLY EXPERIENCES. 
 
 inside. We went on to the village, to see about the 
 supply of water. 
 
 The people were very friendly, and crowded round 
 us. We were led up to a platform in front of one of 
 their large houses, and there seated and regaled with 
 •cocoanuts. The natives here are much darker than 
 are those at Kerepunu ; most of them suffer from a very 
 •offensive-looking skin disease, which causes the skin to 
 peel off in scales. In their conversation with one 
 another I recognised several Polynesian words. The 
 water is obtained by digging in the sand, and is very 
 brackish. 
 
 We came to anchor next morning, and soon were 
 surrounded with canoes, and our deck swarmed with 
 natives trading their curios, yams, cocoanuts and fish 
 for heads and hoop-iron. Many were swearing friend- 
 ship, and exchanging names with us, in hopes of getting 
 hoop-iron. There is as great a demand for hoop-iron 
 here as for tobacco at Port Moresby. They told us 
 they disliked fighting, but delighted in the dance, betel 
 nut and sleep. The majority have jet black teeth, 
 which they consider very beautiful, and all have their 
 noses and ears pierced, with various sorts of nose and 
 ear-rings, chiefly made from shell, inserted. A crown 
 piece could easily be put through the lobe of their 
 •ears. 
 
 We went ashore in the afternoon. There are three 
 villages, all close to one another. Their houses are 
 built on poles, and are shaped like a canoe turned 
 bottom upwards, others like one in the water. They 
 •ornament their houses on the outside with cocoanuts 
 and shells. The nabobs of the place had skulls on the 
 posts of their houses, which they said belonged to the 
 
TEACHERS LEFT ON TESTE ISLAND. 43 
 
 enemies they had killed and eaten. One skull was 
 very much fractured ; they told us it was done with a 
 stone axe, and showed us how they used these weapons. 
 
 We tried to explain to them that no one was to come 
 to the vessel the next day, as it was a sacred day. In 
 the early morning some canoes came off to trade, but 
 we sent them ashore ; a few more followed about 
 breakfast time, which were also sent ashore. In the 
 afternoon our old friend of the preceding day came off 
 with his wife and two sons. He called out that he did 
 not wish to come on board, but that he had brought 
 some cooked food. We accepted his present, and he 
 remained with his family in his canoe alongside the 
 vessel for some time, and then went quietly ashore. 
 We had three services on board, one in the forenoon 
 in Lifuan, in the afternoon in Rarotongan, and in the 
 evening in English. 
 
 As Teste Island is about twenty miles from the 
 mainland, with a dead beat to it, I decided to seek for 
 a position more accessible to New Guinea, and as I 
 had not a teacher to spare for this little island, Mr- 
 McFarlane decided to leave two of the Loyalty Island 
 teachers here. It is fertile, and appears healthy, is 
 two-and-a-half miles long and half a mile broad. A 
 ridge of hills runs right through its centre from east- 
 north-east to west-south-west. The natives have 
 some fine plantations on the north side, and on the 
 south and east sides they have yam plantations to the 
 very tops of the hills. There are plantations and fruit 
 trees all round the island. 
 
 On Monday I accompanied Mr. McFarlane when he 
 went ashore to make arrangements to land his teachers 
 and secure a house for them. The people seemed 
 
44 
 
 EARLY EXPERIENCES. 
 
 pleased that some of our party would remain with 
 them. Mr. McFarlane at once chose a house on a 
 point of land a good way from our landing-place, and 
 at the end of the most distant village. The owner was 
 willing to give up the house until the teachers could 
 build one for themselves, so it was at once taken and 
 paid for. We came along to our old friend’s place, 
 near the landing, when we were told that the house 
 taken was a very bad one. In the first place, the 
 position was unhealthy, in the second, that was the 
 point where their enemies from Basilaki (Moresby 
 Island) always landed when they came to fight, and the 
 people could not protect the teachers if so far off when 
 their foes came. All agreed in this, and a fine new 
 house which had never been occupied was offered and 
 taken, the same price being paid for it as for the other 
 one. This house is close to the landing-place, and in 
 the midst of the people. The owner of the first house 
 offered to return the things, but we thought it would 
 not be ruinous to let him keep them, their English 
 value being about ten shillings. 
 
 We passed a tabooed place, or rather would have 
 done so had we not been forced to take a circuitous 
 path in the bush. None of the natives spoke as we 
 passed the place, nor till we were clear of it ; they 
 made signs also to us to be silent. A woman had 
 died there lately, and the friends were still mourning. 
 There had been no dancing in the settlement since the 
 death, nor would there be any for some days to come. 
 
 I think women are more respected here than they 
 are in some other heathen lands. They seem to keep 
 fast hold of their own possessions. A man stole an 
 ornament belonging to his wife, and sold it for hoop- 
 
MORESBY ISLAND. 
 
 45 
 
 iron on board the Bert.lia. When he went ashore he 
 was met on the beach by his spouse, who had in the 
 meantime missed her trinket; she assailed him with 
 tongue, stick and stone, and demanded the hoop-iron. 
 
 The teachers were landed in the afternoon, and were 
 well received. The natives all promised to care for 
 them, and treat them kindly. There are about 250 
 natives on the island. No Ellengowan appearing, we 
 determined to leave this on Wednesday, the 21st, and to 
 proceed to Moresby Island. Next morning we left, but, 
 owing to light winds, we did not anchor in Hoop Iron 
 Bay, off Moresby Island, till the morning of the 22nd. 
 The anchorage here is in an open roadstead. It is a 
 very fine island — the vegetation from the water’s edge 
 right up to the mountain tops. Plantations are to be 
 seen all round. The people live in small detached 
 companies, and are not so pleasant and friendly-looking 
 a people as are the Teste Islanders. This is the great 
 Basilaki, and the natives are apparently the deadly foes 
 of all the islanders round. Before we anchored, we 
 were surrounded by catamarans (three small logs lashed 
 together) and canoes — spears in them all. 
 
 Mr. McFarlane decided, as soon as we came to the 
 island, that he would not land his teachers here ; and I 
 did not consider it a suitable place as a head station for 
 New Guinea. We left Moresby Island at six A.M. on 
 the 23rd inst., and beat through Fortescue Straits, 
 between Moresby and Basilisk Islands. The scenery 
 was grand — everything looked so fresh and green, very 
 different from the death-like appearance of Port 
 Moresby and vicinity. The four teachers were close 
 behind us, in their large whale-boat, with part of their 
 things. On getting out of the Straits, we saw East 
 
46 
 
 EARLY EXPERIENCES. 
 
 Cape ; but, as there is no anchorage there, we made for 
 Ivillerton Island, about ten miles from the Cape. The 
 wind being very light, it was eight r.M. before we 
 anchored : the boat got up an hour after us. There 
 was apparently great excitement ashore ; lights were 
 moving about in all directions, but none came to us. 
 In the morning, a catamaran with two boys ventured 
 alongside of us ; they got a present, and went away 
 shouting. Soon we were surrounded with catamarans 
 and canoes, with three or four natives in each. They 
 had no spears with them, nor did they kill a dog on our 
 quarter-deck, as they did on that of the Basilisk. They 
 appeared quite friendly, and free from shyness. They 
 brought off their curios to barter for beads, red cloth, 
 and the much-valued hoop-iron. The whole country 
 looked productive and beautiful. After breakfast, we 
 went ashore, and were led through swampy ground to 
 see the water. On our return to the shore, we went in 
 search of a position for the mission settlement, but 
 could not get one far enough away from the swamp, so 
 we took the boat and sailed a mile or two nearer the 
 Cape, where we found an excellent position near a 
 river. Mr. McFarlane obtained a fine new house for the 
 teachers, in which they are to remain till they get a 
 house built. We took all the teachers’ goods ashore, 
 which the natives helped to carry to the house. One 
 man, who considered himself well dressed, kept near us 
 all day. He had a pair of trousers, minus a leg : he 
 fastened the body of the trousers round his head, and 
 let the leg fall gracefully down his back. 
 
 On the following morning, two large canoes — twenty 
 paddles in each — came in from somewhere about Milne 
 Bay. They remained for some time near the shore. 
 
ARRIVAL AT SOUTH CAPE. 
 
 47 
 
 getting all the news they could about us from the shore 
 folk ; then the leader amongst them stood up and 
 caught his nose and pointed to his stomach — we doing 
 the same. The large canoes went ashore, and the chief 
 came off to us in a small one. We gave him a present, 
 which greatly pleased him. 
 
 After breakfast, we went ashore to hold a service 
 with the teachers. We met under a large tree, near 
 their house. About GOO natives were about us, and all 
 round outside of the crowd were men armed with spears 
 and clubs. Mr. McFarlane preached. When the first 
 hymn was being sung, a number of women and children 
 got up and ran into the bush. The service was short 
 at its close we sat down and sang hymns, which 
 seemed to amuse them greatly. The painted and 
 armed men were not at all pleasant-looking fellows. 
 
 At two in the morning (Monday) we weighed anchor 
 and returned to Moresby Island. The wind was very 
 light, and we had to anchor at the entrance to 
 Fortescue Straits. Next morning we sailed through 
 the Straits, and, on coming out on the opposite side, we 
 were glad to see the Bertha beating outside. By noon 
 we were on board the Bertha, and off for South Cape, 
 the Mayri going to Teste Island with a letter, telling 
 the captain of the Ellengowan to follow us, and also to 
 see if the teachers were all right. 
 
 By evening we were well up to South Cape. The 
 captain did not care to get too near at night, and stood 
 away till morning. About ten next morning I accom- 
 panied the captain in the boat, to sound and look for 
 anchorage, which we found in 22 fathoms, near South- 
 West Point. By half-past five that evening we anchored. 
 The excitement ashore was great, and before the anchor 
 
48 
 
 EARL Y EXPERIENCES. 
 
 was really clown we were surrounded by canoes. As a 
 people, they are small and puny, and much darker than 
 the Eastern Polynesians. They were greatly excited 
 over Pi’s baby, a fine plump little fellow, seven months 
 old, who, beside them, seemed a white child. Indeed, 
 all they saw greatly astonished them. Canoes came off 
 to us very early in the morning. About half-past 
 seven, when we were ready to go ashore, there arose 
 great consternation amongst the natives. Three large 
 war canoes, with conch shells blowing, appeared off the 
 mainland and paddled across the Mayri Straits. Soon 
 a large war canoe appeared near the vessel. A great 
 many small canoes from various parts of the mainland 
 were ordered off by those on whose side we were 
 Anchored. They had to leave. On their departure a 
 great shout was raised by the victorious party, and in a 
 short time all returned quietly to their bartering. It 
 seemed that the Stacy Islanders wished to keep all the 
 bartering to themselves. They did not wish the rest 
 to obtain hoop-iron or any other foreign wealth. They 
 are at feud with one party on the mainland, and I 
 suppose in their late contests have been victorious, for 
 they told us with great exultation that they had lately 
 killed and eaten ten of their enemies from the 
 mainland. 
 
 About nine, we went ashore near the anchorage. I 
 crossed the island to the village, but did not feel 
 satisfied as to the position. One of our guides to the 
 village wore, as an armlet, the jawbone of a man from 
 the mainland he had killed and eaten ; others strutted 
 about with human bones dangling from their hair, and 
 about their necks. It is only the village Tepauri on 
 the mainland with which they are unfriendly. We 
 
CANNIBALISM. 
 
 49 
 
 returned to the boat, and sailed along the coast. On 
 turning a cape, we came to a pretty village, on a 
 well-wooded point. The people were friendly, and led 
 us to see the water, of which there is a good supply. 
 This is the spot for which we have been in search as a 
 station for beginning work. We can go anywhere from 
 here, and are surrounded by villages. The mainland 
 is not more than a gun-shot across. God has led us. 
 We made arrangements for a house for the teachers ; 
 then returned to the vessel. 
 
 In the afternoon, I landed the teachers, their wives, 
 and part of their goods — the people helping to carry 
 the stuff to the house. The house in which the teachers 
 are to reside till our own is finished is the largest in 
 the place, but they can only get the use of one end of 
 it — the owner, who considers himself the chief man of 
 the place, requiring the other end for himself and 
 family. The partition between the two ends is only 
 two feet high. Skulls, shells, and cocoanuts are hung 
 all about the house ; the skulls are those of the enemies 
 he and his people have eaten. Inside the house, hung 
 up on the wall, is a very large collection of human 
 bones, bones of animals and of fish. 
 
 I selected a spot for our house on the point of land 
 nearest the mainland. It is a large sand hill, and well 
 wooded at the back. We have a good piece of land, 
 with bread-fruit and other fruit trees on it, which I hope 
 soon to have cleared and planted with food, for the 
 benefit of the teachers who may be here awaiting their 
 stations, as well as for the teacher for the place. The 
 frontage is the Straits, with the mainland right opposite. 
 There is a fine anchorage close to the house for vessel 
 of any size. 
 
 E 
 
So 
 
 EARLY EXPERIENCES. 
 
 Early next morning there was great excitement 
 ashore. The large war canoe came off, with drums 
 heating and men dancing. They came alongside the 
 Bertha, and presented us with a small pig and food. 
 Then the men came on board and danced. The captain 
 gave them a return present. Mr. McFarlane and I 
 went ashore immediately after breakfast, and found 
 that the teachers had been kindly treated. We gave 
 some natives a few axes, who at once set off to cut 
 wood for the house, and before we returned to the 
 vessel in the evening two posts were up. As the 
 Bertha’s time was up, and the season for the trade 
 winds closing, everything was done to get on with the 
 house. Mr. McFarlane worked well. Two men from 
 the Bertha and two from the Mayri joined with the 
 four teachers in the work, and by Tuesday the frame- 
 work was nearly up. We landed our things that 
 day, and immediately after breakfast on Wednesday, 
 December 5tli, we went ashore to reside ; and about 
 ten A.M. the Bertha left. On the Tuesday, Mr. McFarlane 
 and I visited several villages on the mainland : three 
 in a deep bay, which must be very unhealthy, from the 
 many swamps and high mountains around. The people 
 appeared friendly, and got very excited over the presents 
 we gave them. 
 
 We got an old foretopsail from the captain, which we 
 rigged up as a tent, in which the teachers slept, we 
 occupying their quarters. We enjoyed a good night’s 
 rest. In early morning the house was surrounded with 
 natives, many of whom were armed. They must 
 wonder at our staying here : they consider our goods 
 to consist entirely of hoop-iron, axes, knives, and 
 arrowroot. About eleven A.M. the war canoes were 
 
HOUSE BUILDING. 
 
 5i 
 
 launched on the opposite side of the water. The 
 excitement here was then great. I met a lad running 
 with painted skulls to the war canoe of this village. 
 Soon it was decorated with skulls, shells, cocoanuts and 
 streamers, and launched. Those on the opposite side 
 came out into the deep bay ; ours remained stationary 
 till the afternoon, when about thirty men got into her, 
 and away towards Farm Bay to trade their hoop-iron 
 for sago. 
 
 On Sunday, we met for our usual public services 
 under a large tree, and a number of natives attended, 
 who of course could not make out what was said, as 
 they were conducted in Rarotongan. At our morning 
 and evening prayers numbers are always about who 
 seem to enjoy the singing. We see quite a number of 
 strangers every day — some from Brumer Island, Tissot, 
 Teste, China Straits, Catamaran Bay, Farm Bay, and 
 other places. Those from Yakavaka — a place over by 
 China Straits — are lighter and better-looking than 
 those here. The women there do not seem to tattoo 
 themselves. Here they tattoo themselves all over their 
 faces and bodies, and make themselves look very ugly. 
 I have not seen one large man or woman amongst 
 them all. 
 
 We had much difficulty in getting a sufficient supply 
 of plaited cocoanut leaves for the walls and roof of 
 our house. By the 14th we had the walls and roof 
 finished, when all our party moved into it. We had a 
 ■curtain of unbleached calico put up between the 
 teachers’ end and ours, and curtains for doors and 
 windows, hut were glad to get into it in that unfinished 
 state : the weather was breaking, and we felt anxious 
 about the teachers sleeping in the tent when it rained. 
 
52 
 
 EARLY EXPERIENCES. 
 
 and we had no privacy at all where we were, and 
 were tired of squatting on the ground, for we could 
 not get a chair in our part of the house ; indeed, the 
 flooring was of such a construction that the legs of 
 a chair or table would have soon gone through it. On 
 the 13th we were busy getting the wood we had cut for 
 the flooring of our house into the sea to be rafted 
 along ; got ten large pieces into the water by breakfast- 
 time. 
 
 After breakfast, Mrs. Chalmers and I were at the 
 new house, with the captain of the Mayri, when we 
 heard a noise like quarrelling. On looking out, I saw 
 the natives very excited, and many of them running 
 with spears and clubs towards the house where 
 Mrs. Chalmers, about five minutes before, had left the 
 teachers rising from breakfast. I hastened over, and 
 pushed my way amongst the natives till I got to the 
 front, when, to my horror, I was right in front of a gun 
 aimed by one of the Mayri’s crew (who had been 
 helping us with the house) at a young man brandishing 
 a spear. The aim was perfect : had the gun been fired 
 — as it would have been had I not arrived in time — 
 the native would have been shot dead. I pushed the 
 native aside, and ordered the gun to be put down, and 
 turned to the natives, shouting, Besi, bed ! (Enough, 
 enough!) Some of them returned their spears and 
 clubs, but others remained threatening. I spoke to our 
 party against using firearms, and then I caught the 
 youth who was flourishing his spear, and with difficulty 
 got it from him. Poor fellow, he cried with rage, yet 
 he did me no harm. I clapped him, and got him to go 
 away. All day he sat under a tree, which we had 
 frequently to pass, but he would have nothing to say to- 
 
THEFTS BY THE NATIVES. 
 
 53 
 
 us. It seems a knife had been stolen, and he being the 
 only one about the house when it was missed, was 
 accused of taking it. One of the teachers was winding- 
 line, and he caught the young fellow by the arm to 
 inquire about the knife. The lad thought he was 
 going to be tied up with the line : he struggled, got 
 free, and raised the alarm. 
 
 Only the night before I had to warn the teachers 
 against using firearms to alarm or threaten the natives. 
 An axe was stolen ; every place about was searched 
 for it, and for some time without its being found. At 
 last, a native found it buried in the sand near where 
 it was last used. It had evidently been hidden there 
 till a favourable opportunity should occur of taking it 
 away. During the search, the owner of the axe (one 
 of the teachers), ran off for his gun, and came rushing 
 over with it. I ordered him to take it back, and in the 
 evening told them it was only in New Guinea that guns 
 were used by missionaries. It was not so in any other 
 mission I knew of, and if we could not live amongst 
 the natives without arms, we had better remain at 
 home ; and if I saw arms used again by them for any- 
 thing, except birds, or the like, I should have the whole 
 of them thrown into the sea. 
 
 In the afternoon of the 14th I went over to the house 
 in which we had been staying, to stir up the teachers to 
 get the things over more quickly ; Mrs. Chalmers remain- 
 ing at the new house to look after the things there, as, 
 without doors or flooring, everything was exposed. I 
 went to the seaside to call to the captain of the Mayri, 
 to send us the boat ashore, when, on looking towards 
 my left, I saw twenty armed natives hurrying along. 
 Though painted, I recognised some of them as those 
 
54 
 
 EARLY EXPERIENCES. 
 
 who were very friendly on hoard the Bertha, and spoke 
 to them ; but they hurried past, frowning and saying 
 something I did not understand. They went straight 
 on to the chiefs house, and surrounded our party. I 
 passed through, and stood in front of them. One very 
 ugly-looking customer was brandishing his spear close 
 hy me. It was an anxious moment, and one in which I 
 am sure many would have used firearms. I called out 
 to the teachers, ‘ Remain quiet.’ Our chief sprung out 
 on to the platform in front of the house and harangued. 
 He was very excited. Shortly he called to the teachers 
 in signs and words, to bring out their guns and fire. 
 They refused. He then rushed into the house and 
 seized a gun, and was making off with it when one of 
 the teachers caught hold of him. I, seeing the teacher 
 with the chief, thought something was wrong, and went 
 to them. We quieted him, and did our best to explain 
 to him that we were no fighters, but men of peace. 
 The babel all round us was terrible. By-and-by a 
 request was made to me to give the chief from the other 
 side a present, and get him away. I said, ‘ No ; had 
 he come in peace, and as a chief, I would have given 
 him a present, but I will not do so now.’ They retired 
 to deliberate, and sent another request for a present. 
 * No ; no presents to men in arms. If the chief returns 
 to-morrow unarmed, he will get a present.’ It seems 
 they are vexed with our living here instead of with 
 them, because they find those here are getting what they 
 consider very rich by our living with them. When 
 quiet was restored, we returned to the carrying of our 
 tinners. When we came to the last few things, our 
 chief objected to their removal until he got a farewell 
 present. He had been paid for the use of the house 
 
NATIVE DANCES. 
 
 55 
 
 before any of us entered it ; but we gave him another 
 present, and so finished the business. 
 
 Our large cross-cut saw was stolen during the 
 hubbub. It belonged to the teachers at East Cape. 
 It had only been lent to us, so we had to get it back. 
 The next morning the chief from the other side came to 
 see me. He received a present, and looked particularly 
 sheepish when I tried to explain to him that we did not 
 like fighting. All day I took care to show that I was 
 very displeased at the loss of the saw, and by the 
 evening I was told that it had been taken by those on 
 the other side ; and offers of returning it were made, but 
 I saw I was expected to buy it from them. I said, 
 ‘ No ; I will not buy what was stolen from me ; the 
 saw must be returned, and I will give an axe to the 
 one who goes for it, and fetches it to me.’ 
 
 The following day, Sunday, the 15th, we held the usual 
 services under a large tree near the mission house ; a 
 great many strangers present ; the latter were very 
 troublesome. On Monday afternoon the saw was 
 returned. . The Mayri left us that day, to visit the 
 teachers at East Cape. The people are getting quieter. 
 At present they are chiefly interested in the sawing of 
 the wood for the flooring of the house. They work 
 willingly for a piece of hoop-iron and a few beads, but 
 cannot do much continuously. They seem to have no 
 kind of worship, and their sports are few. The children 
 swing, bathe, and sail small canoes. The grown-up 
 people have their dance — a very poor sort of thing. A 
 band of youths, with drums, stand close together, and 
 in a most monotonous tone sing whilst they beat the 
 drums. The dancers dance round the men once or 
 twice, and all stop to rest a bit. I have been twice 
 
56 
 
 EARL Y EXPERIENCES. 
 
 present when only the women danced. They bury 
 their dead, and place houses over the graves, which 
 they fence round, planting crotons, bananas, etc., 
 inside. They do their cooking inside their houses. It 
 was very hot and uncomfortable when we were in the 
 native house. The master being a sort of a chief, and 
 paving a large household, a great deal of cooking was 
 
 NATIVES OF SOUTH-EASTERN NEW GUINEA. 
 
 required. Three large fires were generally burning in 
 their end of house for the greater part of the day. The 
 heat and smoke from these fires were not nice. Indeed, 
 they generally had one or two burning all night, to 
 serve for blankets, I suppose. 
 
 We went on with our work about the place, getting 
 on well with the natives and with those from other parts, 
 
A VISIT TO THE MAINLAND. 
 
 57 
 
 We became so friendly with the natives that I had 
 hoped to go about with them in their canoes. Several 
 natives from one of the settlements invited me to visit 
 their place, and said that if I went with them in their 
 canoe they would return me. I went with them, and 
 was well received by all the people at the settlement, 
 where I spent some hours. On the 21st of December 
 the Mayri returned from East Cape, and reported that 
 all were sick, but that the people were very friendly and 
 kind to teachers. Anxious to keep the vessel employed, 
 and to prepare the way for landing teachers, I resolved 
 to visit a settlement on the mainland at deadly feud 
 with this people. The people here tried hard to 
 dissuade me from going, telling me that as I stayed 
 with them my head would be cut off. Seeing me 
 determined to go, they brought skulls, saying, mine 
 would be like that, to adorn their enemies’ war canoe, 
 or hang outside of chief’s house. Feeling sure that 
 they did not wish me to go because they were afraid 
 the hoop-iron, the knives, axes, beads, and cloth might 
 also be distributed on the other side, I told them I must 
 go ; so they left me to my fate. 
 
 I took the teacher with me that I hoped to leave 
 there. "We were received very kindly by the people. 
 They led us inland, to show us there was water, and 
 when we got back to the seaside they regaled us with 
 sugar-cane and cocoanuts. They then told us that 
 they did not live at the village, but at the next, and 
 merely came here for food. We then got into a canoe, 
 and were paddled up to the other village, where a great 
 crowd assembled, and where we publicly gave the chiefs 
 our presents. They danced with delight, and told the 
 teacher not to be long until he came to reside with them. 
 
58 
 
 EARLY EXPERIENCES. 
 
 On our return we thought our friends seemed dis- 
 appointed. We had suffered no harm; however, as I 
 had been unwell for some days, and felt worse on the 
 day following my trip, they felt comforted, and assured 
 me it was because of our visiting Tepauri. We had 
 several things stolen, and amongst other things a camp 
 oven, which we miss much. Yet these are things which 
 must be borne, and we can hope that some day their 
 stealing propensities will change. From a very unex- 
 pected source, and in a very unexpected manner, the 
 whole prospects of this eastern mission seemed all at 
 once to he upset. I do not think I can do better than 
 extract from my journal for the next few days. 
 
 December 29 th. — About twelve o’clock three lads 
 from the Mayri came ashore to cut firewood. One of 
 them came to me, saying, ‘ I ’fraid, sir, our captain he 
 too fast with natives. One big follow he come on 
 board, and he sit down below. Captain he tell him get 
 up ; he no get up. Captain he get sword, and he tell 
 him, s’pose he no get rip he cut head off ; he get up, go 
 ashore. I fear he no all right.’ They left me and went 
 towards the sawpit. Some men were clearing at the 
 back of my house, some were putting up a cook-house, 
 and the teachers were sawing wood. On the cook- 
 house being finished, I was paying the men, when, on 
 hearing a great noise, I rose up and saw those who 
 were at the sawpit running away and leaping the fence, 
 and heard firing as if from the vessel. I rushed into 
 the house with my bag, and then out to see what it 
 was. I saw natives on board the Mayri, and some in 
 canoes ; they were getting the hawser ashore, and 
 pulling up the anchor, no doubt to take the vessel. 
 Everywhere natives were appearing, some armed, and 
 
A NATIVE SHOT ON THE MAYRI. 59 - 
 
 others unarmed. Two of the lads from the vessel,, 
 wishing to get on hoard, went to their boat, but found 
 the natives would not let it go. I shouted to the 
 natives detaining it to let it go, which they did. Had 
 I not been near, they would certainly have been fired 
 upon by the two lads, who were armed with muskets. 
 Before the boat got to the vessel I saw natives jump 
 overboard, and soon the firing became brisker. I 
 rushed along the beach, calling upon the natives to get 
 into the bush, and to those on board to cease firing. 
 Firing ceased, and soon I heard great wailing at the 
 chief’s house, where I was pressed to go. A man was 
 shot through the leg and arm. On running through 
 the village to the house to get something for the 
 wounded man, I was stopped to see a young man 
 bleeding profusely, shot through the left arm, the 
 bullet entering the chest. I got some medicine and 
 applied it to both. 
 
 When I reached the house I found Mrs. Chalmers 
 the only calm person there. Natives were all around 
 armed. When at the chief’s house with medicine I 
 was told there was still another, and he was on board. 
 They kept shouting, ‘ Bocasi, Bocasi,’ the name of the 
 man who was on board in the morning. I found a small 
 canoe all over blood, and two natives paddled me off. 
 On getting alongside, I saw the captain sitting on deck, 
 looking very white, and blood all about him. I asked, 
 ‘ Is there still a man on board ? ’ Answer : ‘ Yes.’ ‘ Is 
 he shot?’ ‘Yes.’ ‘Dead?’ ‘Yes.’ He was dead, 
 and lying below. I was afraid to remain long on 
 board, and would not risk landing with the body ; nor 
 would it do for the body to be landed before me, as 
 then I might be prevented from landing at all ; so I got 
 
6o 
 
 EARLY EXPERIENCES. 
 
 into the canoe, in which one native was sitting. The 
 other was getting the body to place in the canoe; hut I 
 said, ‘Not in this one, hut a larger one.’ So ashore I 
 went, and hastened to the house. I understood the 
 captain to say that they attempted to take his life, and 
 this big man, armed with a large sugar-cane knife, was 
 coming close up, and he shot him dead. The captain’s 
 foot was frightfully cut. He had a spear head in his 
 ■side, and several other wounds. 
 
 The principal people seemed friendly, and kept 
 assuring us that all was right, we should not be harmed. 
 Great was the wailing when the body was landed, 
 and arms were up and down pretty frequently. Canoes 
 began to crowd in from the regions around. A man who 
 has all along been very friendly and kept close by 
 us advised us strongly to leave during the night, as, 
 assuredly, when the war canoes from the different parts 
 came in, we should be murdered. Mrs. Chalmers 
 decidedly opposed our leaving. God would protect us. 
 The vessel was too small, and not provisioned, and to 
 leave would be losing our position as well as endanger- 
 ing Teste and East Cape. We came here for Christ’s 
 work, and He would protect us. 
 
 In the dusk one of the crew came ashore, saying that 
 the captain was very ill, and wanted to go off to 
 Murray Island. I could not go on board, and leave 
 them here. We consented to the vessel’s leaving, and 
 I gave the lad some medicine for the captain, and 
 asked him to send on shore all he could spare in the 
 way of beads, etc. I took all that was necessary, and 
 about half-past seven the vessel left. We were told we 
 should have to pay something to smooth over the 
 trouble, which we were quite willing to do. Late at 
 
A CANNIBAL BLAST. 
 
 6r 
 
 night we had things ready. We had our evening 
 prayers in Earotongan, reading Psalm xlvi., and 
 feeling that God was truly our refuge. 
 
 People were early about on the 30tli. We gave 
 the things which were prepared, and they were 
 accepted. The people from the settlement to which 
 the man belonged who was shot came to attack us, 
 but the people here ordered them back. Many people 
 came in from islands and mainland. A number of 
 so-called chiefs tell us no one will injure us, and that 
 we can go on with our work. We thought it not well 
 to have services out of doors to-day, so held prayer- 
 meetings in the house. 
 
 Great crowds came in from all round on the 31st,. 
 and many war canoes. The people were extremely im- 
 pudent, jumping the fence and taking no heed of what 
 we said. One of the chief men of the settlement to 
 which the man who was shot belongs returned from 
 Vaare (Teste Island). He seemed friendly, and I gave 
 him a present. 
 
 I had an invitation to attend a cannibal feast at one 
 of the settlements. Some said it would consist of 
 two men and a child, others of five and a child. 
 
 The people continued troublesome all day, and 
 seemed to think we had nothing else to do than attend 
 to their demands. 
 
 January 1st, 1878. — We were told we might be at- 
 tacked. There was a great wailing assembly at the other 
 village. A canoe from Tanosine, with a great many ugly- 
 looking men, passed, and our friends here seemed to fear 
 they would attack us. We thought everything settled, 
 and that we should have no more to pay. The warp 
 belonging to the Mayri was carried past to-day and 
 
•62 
 
 EARLY EXPERIENCES. 
 
 offered for sale ; but I would have nothing to do with 
 it. We have tried the meek and quiet up till now, 
 and they only become more impudent and threatening. 
 
 Having tried the peaceful and pleasant, we deter- 
 mined to -show the natives that we were not afraid, 
 and resisted every demand, and insisted that there 
 should be no more leaping the fence. On demands 
 being made, I shouted, ‘ No more ; wait, and when Beri- 
 tama fighting canoe comes, then make your demands.’ 
 They seemed afraid, and became less troublesome. 
 
 In the afternoon of January 2nd, the parties who have 
 the hawser brought it to me ; hut I would have nothing 
 to do with it. I told them if Pouairo, the settlement 
 of the man who was shot, determines to attack us, let 
 them come, we, too, can fight. One of the teachers fired 
 off his gun at some distance from a bread-fruit tree, and 
 the bullet went clean through a limb of it ; it caused 
 great exclamations, and crowds went to look at it. 
 
 The hawser was returned and left outside. We took 
 no notice of it. The people were much quieter, and no 
 demands were made. The cannibal feast was held. 
 Some of our friends appeared with pieces of human 
 flesh dangling from their neck and arms. The child 
 was spared for a future time, it being considered too 
 small. Amidst all the troubles Mrs. Chalmers was the 
 only one who kept calm and well. 
 
 The Ellengowan arrived on January 20th. The 
 natives were beginning to think no vessel would come ; 
 hut -when it arrived, they were frightened, and willing 
 to forget the Mayri affair. A few days before she 
 arrived some of our friends warned us against going 
 too far away from the house. After her arrival we 
 were able to go about among the people again. 
 
( 63 ) 
 
 CHAPTER IT. 
 
 A FEW TRIP INCIDENTS. 
 
 Start eastwards from Heath Island — Naroopoo — Trading witli 
 Natives — Landing at Roux Island — Interview with the Chief — 
 The Man with the club — Effect of a gunshot on the natives — 
 Ellengowan Bay — Narrow Escape — The steam-whistle useful 
 — Attempt to go inland unsuccessful — Amazons — Women chief 
 instigators of quarrels — Toulon Island — The real ‘Amazons’ 
 Land’ — How the report arose — Cloudy Bay — Interview with 
 the Chief — Sandbank Bay — A hurried time. — Dufaure Island 
 — Attack on Mr. Chalmers by Aroma natives — Defended by 
 some of the natives — Attack due to evil conduct of white 
 men — Intentions of the natives — Heathen customs — Pigs — 
 Planting — Trading — Sickness. 
 
 The Ellengowan had been thoroughly refitted at Sydney ; 
 and in the spring of 1878, accompanied by my wife, I 
 embarked on a cruise from east to west along the south 
 coast of New Guinea. The little steamer was com- 
 manded by Captain Dudfield, and manned by an 
 efficient native crew. Communication was held with 
 some two hundred villages, one hundred and five were 
 personally visited, and ninety for the first time by a 
 white man. Several bays, harbours, rivers, and islands 
 were discovered and named ; the country between 
 Meikle and Orangerie Bays, together with that lying 
 at the back of Kerepunu was explored, and the entire 
 coast line from Keppel Point to McFarlane Harbour, 
 traversed on foot. 
 
64 
 
 A FEW TRIP INCIDENTS. 
 
 In travelling through a new country, it is impossible 
 not to have many experiences that may interest those 
 at home, although to the traveller they may seem of 
 little moment. In May, 1878, I began my journeys 
 on New Guinea, in parts hitherto unknown, and 
 amongst tribes supposed to be hostile. I resolved, 
 come what might, to travel unarmed, trusting to Him 
 in whose work I was engaged, and feeling that no 
 harm could come to me while in His care. 
 
 On leaving Heath Island we really began on new 
 and little known seas and country, and we first 
 anchored in a bay we called Inverary Bay. On 
 landing we were met by a few men, the others coming 
 out with goods and chattels. We steamed round by 
 the Leocadie, through what forms a good harbour for 
 small vessels, and over by the sandbanks in Catamaran 
 Bay. We called at Tanosina, to the east of the Leocadie, 
 landing with caution, as these people had been very 
 troublesome on our first arrival at South Cape, and 
 were very anxious to avenge the man shot on board the 
 Mayri. They did not receive us heartily, and seemed 
 inclined to be impudent, so I thought it best, after 
 giving one or two presents, to get quietly to the boat 
 and away. I may here say that in after times these 
 people were very friendly, and helped us much in 
 our work. We visited all round the bay, returning 
 to South Cape. 
 
 After getting a supply of water and fuel on board, 
 we started again, going east round Bugged Head to 
 Farm Bay, and well up to the head of the bay, 
 anchoring opposite to Naroopoo. I landed, and soon 
 had an admiring crowd round me. I was dressed in 
 white, with black leather boots. Sitting on a verandah, 
 
LA WES BA Y. 
 
 65 
 
 some, more daring than others, would come up, touch 
 my sliirt and trousers, bite their fingers and run away. 
 Acain and acjain this was done by the bold ones, who 
 always eyed my boots. After consultation, one old 
 woman mustered courage, came up, touched my trousers, 
 and finally my boots. She was trembling all over, but, 
 horror of horrors, to add to her fear, lifting my foot, I 
 pulled my boot off ; she screamed and ran, some others 
 setting out with her, and did not stop until quite out 
 of sight. 
 
 After visiting several villages, and finding that the 
 bay was thickly populated, I went on board. The 
 following morning many canoes came alongside, and on 
 our getting up steam were much afraid. It was evident 
 they wanted to show us that they had confidence in i;s, 
 but it was difficult with the steam up, the snorting and 
 general commotion on board being so great. We warned 
 them on getting up anchor to clear off. Why should 
 they ? There was no sail, nor were we going to move. 
 A commotion aft, canoes with crews clearing away to a 
 very safe distance. One canoe hanging on is pulled 
 under, a wild shout, a moment’s silence, and then 
 there is a loud roar of laughter, when they see canoe 
 and paddlers appear astern at some distance. We 
 rounded One Tree Point, and could see no entrance to 
 a bay, just a few miles beyond, but since explored 
 and named Lawes Bay. Keeping on, we anchored 
 outside of the Boux Islands, in a fine safe harbour. 
 Before leaving our friends at South Cape, they were 
 boasting of having visited some place on the coast, 
 where, on showing their large knives, the natives all 
 left, they helping themselves to a good many things. 
 
 We had some difficulty in getting a canoe to come 
 
 F 
 
66 
 
 A FEW TRIP INCIDENTS. 
 
 alongside, and it was not until we had fastened a piece 
 of red clotli to a stick and floated it astern, that the 
 flrst canoe would come near. The natives approached, 
 picked up the red cloth, and in showing them pieces of 
 1 loop-iron, they gradually came near enough to take 
 hold of a piece, look well at it, and finally decide 
 to come alongside. Once alongside we. were soon 
 fraternising, and on seeing this other canoes came 
 off, and trading for curios began. Asking the captain 
 to keep on trading as long as possible, I hastened 
 ashore, to see the chief of one of the villages. As long 
 as trading canoes remain alongside, the parties landing 
 are perfectly safe ; care should be taken to get away 
 as soon as possible after the canoes leave the vessel. 
 
 The tide was far out when our boat touched the 
 beach. A crowd met us, and in every hand was a club or 
 spear. I went on to the bow, to spring ashore, but was 
 warned not to land. I told them I had come to see 
 the chief, had a present for him, and must see him. 
 
 ‘ Give us your present, and we will give it to him, 
 but you must not land.’ 
 
 ‘ I am Tamate, from Suau, and have come as a friend 
 to visit your old chief, and I must land.’ 
 
 An elderly woman came close up to the boat, saying, 
 ‘ You must not land, but I will take the present, or,’ 
 pointing to a young man close by, ‘ he will take it for 
 his father,’ he being the chiefs son. 
 
 ‘ No ; I must see the chief for myself ; but the son I 
 should also like to know, and will give him a present 
 too.’ 
 
 Springing ashore, followed by the mate, a fine 
 daring fellow, much accustomed to roughing it on the 
 diggings, and not the least afraid of natives, I walked 
 
THE MAN WITH THE CLUB. 
 
 67 
 
 lip the long beach to the village, to the chiefs house. 
 The old man was seated on the platform in front of the 
 house, and did not even deign to rise to receive us. I 
 told him who I was, and the object of my coming. He 
 heard me through, and treated the whole as stale news. 
 I placed my present on the platform in front of him, 
 and waited for some word of satisfaction ; but none 
 escaped the stern old chieftain. Presents of beads were 
 handed to little children in arms, but indignantly 
 returned. Loud laughing in the outskirts of crowd 
 and little jostling. 
 
 ‘ Gould,’ said I to the mate, ‘ I think we had better 
 get away from here ; keep eyes all round, and let us 
 make quietly to the beach.’ 
 
 To the chief I said, ‘ Friend, I am going, you stay.’ 
 Lifting his eyebrows, he said, ‘ Go.’ 
 
 We were followed by the crowd, one man with a 
 large round club walking behind me, and uncomfort- 
 ably near. Had I that club in my hand, I should feel 
 a little more comfortable. When on the beach we saw 
 the canoes had left the vessel, and were hurrying ashore ; 
 our boat was soon afloat, still, we had some distance to 
 go. I must have that club, or I fear that club will 
 have me. I had a large piece of hoop-iron, such as is 
 highly prized by the natives, in my satchel ; taking it, I 
 wheeled quickly round, presented it to the savage, whose 
 eyes were dazzled as with a bar of gold. With my left 
 hand I caught the club, and before he became conscious 
 of what was done I was heading the procession, armed 
 as a savage, and a good deal more comfortable. We 
 got safely away. 
 
 From Fyfe Bay we went round to Meikle Bay, where 
 I visited all the villages, and was well received. Before 
 
68 
 
 A FEW TRIP INCIDENTS. 
 
 landing I decided to walk inland, and see for myself if 
 there was no arm of the sea running up at the back. 
 The charts showed no such thing, but I felt sure, from 
 the formation of the land and the manner of clouds 
 hanging over it, that there must be a lake or some large 
 sheet of water, and that there must be considerable 
 streams carrying off the water of the Lome Range and 
 Cloudy Mountains, as no stream of any size came to the 
 sea on the coast-side. I got the chief of the village at 
 the head of the bay and a large following to show us 
 the way. We travelled for some miles through good 
 country, and at last came out opposite a large sheet of 
 water, stretching well up towards Cloudy Mountain 
 and away towards the head of Milne Bay. Seeing the 
 Stirling Range, I was able to take a few positions. 
 
 Our mate, who had his fowling-piece with him, saw 
 a very pretty parrot on a cocoanut tree. He approached 
 until close under — the natives, about forty in number, 
 standing breathlessly round, and wondering what was 
 going to happen. Bang ! Down dropped the parrot ; a 
 wail, hands to ears, a shout, and we were left alone with 
 the chief, who happened to be standing close by me. 
 Those natives only ceased running when they reached 
 their homes. 
 
 We visited several villages, and at sundown re- 
 turned. In the dark we travelled along the bed of a 
 creek, passing small villages, whose inhabitants were 
 terribly alarmed, but none more so than our chief. 
 Poor fellow, he was frightened. How nimbly he 
 ascended his platform on our arrival at his house, 
 where his two wives were crying, but now rejoiced to 
 see him in the body. Long ago the escort had returned 
 with a terrible tale, and they feared whether their 
 
ELLENGO WAN BA Y. 69 
 
 husband could have lived through it all. But he was 
 now considered a veritable hero, to be sung in song 
 and shouted in dance. Friends gather round ; he tells 
 his tale ; presents the bird ; the wives examine it, then 
 the crowd of relatives. He afraid ! 0I1 dear no ! But 
 he looked pale for a native, and no quantity of hoop- 
 iron would induce him to move from that platform and 
 the sides of those dear wives that night. Enough for 
 one day, one month, one year, so, ‘ Good-bye, Tamate ; I 
 shall be off in the morning to see you.’ Arriving on 
 board late, we were welcome ; they feared we had been 
 spirited away. 
 
 The following day we got round to Ellen gowan Bay. 
 After visiting all the Milages, I went right up to the 
 head of the bay to see Silo and its chief. The tide was 
 very low, and after pulling the boat some distance 
 through mud we left her in charge of the two rowers, the 
 mate and I going to the village. He had hoop-iron 
 cut in seven inch lengths in his pockets. The old 
 chief received us graciously, and began giving me a 
 long story of what he wished to do in the way of pigs 
 and food, if I would only stay two days. It was a 
 sickly -looking hole, and not being quite rid of fever, I 
 hoped to get on board and away in an hour, A large 
 crowd gathered round all under arms, very noisy, and 
 certainly not gentle. A slight scuffle took place, but 
 was soon over. The mate missed some of his hoop- 
 iron, caught one young man with a piece, and took it 
 from him. The crowd increased. I told the chief 1 
 should prefer his people unarmed, and not so noisy. He 
 spoke to them, some put down their clubs and spears ; 
 but they were hidden in the bush close by. We bade 
 the chief good-bye, but he expressed a great wish to see 
 
7o 
 
 A FEW TRIP INCIDENTS. 
 
 us in the boat. Apparently with great carelessness we 
 made towards the beach, attended by a noisy crowd, 
 all arms now picked up. Remembering the difficulty 
 we had in landing, and knowing savages preferred 
 killing out of their own villages, hospitality having 
 ended when friends left the precincts, I determined not 
 to have that crowd near the boat. I asked the chief to 
 send them back ; but to him they would not listen, and 
 still the noisy crowd followed on. I shouted to them 
 to return, and not come troubling us, as we were 
 getting into the boat. No use ; on they followed, and 
 the boat they meant to visit. I stood still, and nut 
 feeling particularly cheerful, I told them to go on, and 
 go off to the vessel — that I should wait and return to 
 the village. Stamping my foot, as if in a towering 
 passion, I told the chief, ‘ Go with all your people to 
 the boat ; as for me, I shall return.’ It had the desired 
 effect. The people fled, and the few who remained 
 listened to the old man, and came no further. We got 
 to the boat and away, glad to escape without any 
 unpleasantness. 
 
 Entering Orangerie Bay, we anchored off the village 
 of Daunai, from which the whole district takes its 
 name. When here, our Chinese cook lost his knife, and, 
 spotting the thief, determined to have it ; but our 
 captain prevented him from jumping into one of the 
 canoes, and so avoided trouble. There were over one 
 hundred canoes round the vessel, and altogether over 
 four hundred men. 
 
 We stopped all trading, and frightened the canoes 
 away by blowing the steam whistle — they were much 
 afraid of it, and kept at a very respectful distance. 
 
 We went up the long sheet of water we saw when we 
 
IMPUDENT NATIVES. 
 
 7i 
 
 crossed Meikle Bay, finding it in every way suited to 
 its native name, Paroai, or piggish water, and quite 
 useless as a harbour for anything larger than an ordinary 
 boat. I went ashore in one of the canoes, to he landed 
 at Bootu, and walk across to Milne Bay. Before 
 leaving the vessel I engaged with the natives to take 
 me right away to the head of the lagoon, and when 1 
 had seen Milne Bay, to return me to the vessel, when 
 they would be paid for all their trouble. So with our 
 bags and a few eatables, we started ; when about a 
 mile away from the vessel, they headed the canoe more 
 in towards the right shore, and no amount of talk in 
 calmness or wrath would get them to do otherwise. 
 We touched at a place not far from a village we visited 
 overland — some left us, and we were certainly now 
 too weak to proceed. We ran down to the village, 
 where we landed with my bag, and away went my 
 native canoe men. Love or money would not move the 
 villagers, and they were exceedingly impudent, know- 
 ing well that we were quite in their hands. My friend 
 the mate, who insisted on accompanying me, agreed with 
 me that things were rather out of the common with us, 
 and that a sharp eye, and quick ear, and quick action 
 were of some importance. They at once went to get 
 their clubs and spears, and begged and insisted on 
 presents; but they were astonished, I doubt not, to 
 find their begging of little avail. 
 
 ‘ Go to the vessel, if you want presents.’ 
 
 ‘ Why are you anchored so far off ? ’ 
 
 ‘ Can’t get nearer, and only wish you would show me 
 the way in close to here.’ 
 
 Pointing to a passage close in shore, I suggested 
 they had better take us off, and we would try and get 
 
72 
 
 A FEW TRIP INCIDENTS. 
 
 her round when the tide rose ; but to this they objected, 
 and instead of becoming more friendly, it seemed to us 
 they were just going the other way ; but that may have 
 been merely as we thought, looking at them through 
 coloured glasses, suspicion, and a certain mixture of 
 doubt if ever we should again see the vessel. A few 
 men came running along the beach. I met them, 
 and hurriedly asked them to take us off, when they 
 would have hoop iron and beads. 
 
 ‘ Yes.’ 
 
 ‘ Quick ! do not let them think ! Into the nearest 
 canoe.’ 
 
 Away in the distance those in the village were 
 shouting and gesticulating. 
 
 ‘ Come back ! Come back, at once.’ 
 
 ‘ Oh, no, my friends ; pull, you must pull ! ’ and while 
 they are discussing we are paddling. I tell them it 
 would be dangerous to attempt going back. On we go, 
 beyond small islands in sight of vessel, and now they 
 give up speaking of returning. We got off, and I paid 
 the fellows well. Anxious to get in, we tried in many 
 places at high tide to enter the shore channel, but all 
 was useless. For several miles we were sailing deep in 
 mud, unable to work the engine. A canoe came near, 
 and I told them to inform those ashore that we could 
 not get in. 
 
 At Port Glasgow the people cleared out, bag 
 and baggage, leaving us in quiet possession. At Port 
 Moresby I had heard of a woman’s land, a land where 
 only women — perfect Amazons — lived and ruled. These 
 ladies were reported to be excellent tillers of the soil, 
 splendid canoeists in sailing or paddling, and quite able 
 to hold their own against attacks of the sterner sex, who 
 
INFLUENCE OF NATIVE WOMEN. 
 
 73 
 
 sometimes tried to invade their country. At the East 
 End they knew nothing of this woman’s land, and 
 nowhere east of Hula have I ever heard it spoken of. 
 
 To find so interesting a community was of great mo- 
 ment, and everywhere we went we inquired, but only to 
 be laughed at by the natives ; sometimes asked by them, 
 
 ‘ How do they continue to exist ? ’ But that, too, puzzled 
 us. As no part of the coast from East Cape to Port 
 Moresby would be left unvisited by us, we were certain 
 to come across the Amazonian settlement, and when we 
 did, it would be useful to keep a sharp look-out, as 
 I have noticed that the instigators of nearly all quarrels 
 are the women. I have seen at South Cape, when the 
 men were inclined to remain quiet, the women rush out, 
 and, as if filled with devils, incite them. Just after the 
 attack on the Mayri, and when I was going about the 
 settlement attending to the wounded, I heard the women 
 call loudly for vengeance, and, because the men would 
 not at once heed them, throw their shields on the ground 
 and batter them with stones, then pull their hair, and 
 tell the men they were only poor weak cowards. 
 
 We heard that Mailiukolo (Toulon) canoes with 
 women were more numerous, and some very large ones 
 with women alone. In the early morning we were off 
 the island, and soon ready to land. On crossing the 
 reef we met two canoes, one with men and one with 
 women. We signed to them to go to the vessel, whilst 
 we pulled up to the large village on the north side. 
 As the boat touched the fine hard sandy beach, a man, 
 the only being in sight, ran down and stood in front. I 
 went forward to spring ashore, but he said I must not. 
 Finding he knew the Daunai dialect, I said to him, 1 
 must land ; that I was a friend, and gave him my name, 
 
74 
 
 A FEW TRIP INCIDENTS. 
 
 which he already knew from the east. I gave him a 
 strip of red cloth and stepped ashore, when he ran 
 away into the bush. 
 
 At our first approach I could only see this one man, 
 but now I saw hundreds of grass petticoats on women 
 standing under the houses. I could not see the upper 
 parts of their bodies, only the petticoats and feet. 
 They were indeed quiet until I advanced nearer, when 
 one wild scream was given that would try stronger 
 nerves than mine, and signs to keep away. It required 
 more inquisitiveness than I possessed to proceed. I 
 retired a few paces, warning the boat’s crew to keep a 
 good look-out, and especially from the bush end of the 
 village, where the man ran to. I invited the dusky 
 damsels to come to me, if they objected to my visiting 
 them ; but no, I must return whence I came ; they had 
 seen me, that was enough. 
 
 ‘ No, my friends ; we must meet, and you will have 
 some presents.’ 
 
 I held up beads and red cloth, but, strange to say, 
 they seemed to have no effect on that strange crowd. 
 I never saw so many women together. How were we 
 to meet ? was now the question ; to be baulked by them 
 would never do. I threw on the beach a piece of red 
 cloth and a few beads ; walked away quite carelessly, and 
 apparently not noticing what was taking place. A 
 girl steals out from the crowd, stops, turns, eyes fixed 
 on me ; advances, stops, crosses her hands, pressing hex- 
 breast. Poor thing not courage enough ; so, lightning 
 speed, back. It is evident the old ladies object to the 
 younger ones attempting, and they are themselves too 
 frightened. Another youixg damsel about nine or ten 
 years old comes out, runs, halts, walks cat-like, lest the 
 
AN AMAZONS LAND. 
 
 75 
 
 touch of her feet on the sand should waken me from 
 my reverie ; another halt, holds, her chest, lest the spirit 
 should take its flight or the pattering heart jump right 
 out. I fear it was beyond the slight patter then, and had 
 reached the stentorian thump of serious times. On ; a 
 rush ; well done ! She picks cloth and beads up. 
 
 I have gained my point, and will soon have the 
 crowds — no need to wait so long to have the baits 
 picked up now, and, after a few more such temptings, it 
 is done. I am besieged by the noisiest crowd I have 
 ever met, and am truly glad to escape on board the 
 boat. We went to the vessel, and brought her round 
 to the west side, where we anchored, and I again landed. 
 Crowds met me on the beach, but no men. I gave my 
 beads indiscriminately, and soon there was a quarrel 
 between the old ladies and young ones. The latter 
 were ordered off, and, because they would not go, I must 
 go. The old ladies insisted on my getting into the boat, 
 and, being now assisted by the few men we met in the 
 canoe, I thought it better to comply. Long after we 
 left the beach we heard those old cracked, crabbed 
 voices anathematising the younger members of that 
 community. I suppose I was the first white mortal to 
 land on that sacred shore, and I must have been to 
 them a strange object indeed. 
 
 I am fully convinced that this is the Woman’s Land, 
 and can easily account for its being called so by stray 
 canoes from the westward. 
 
 After leaving the island, we steamed round to the 
 westward of the small islands in Amazon Bay, where 
 we intended to spend a quiet Sabbath after a hard 
 week’s work, and previous to beginning another. After 
 anchoring, canoes with men and boys kept crossing 
 
76 
 
 A FEW TRIP INCIDENTS. 
 
 from the mainland, and all day Sunday it was the same. 
 They halted at the islands, and with the next tide went 
 on to Toulon. Landing on the Saturday evening to shoot 
 pigeons, we met several natives, and learned that their 
 plantations were on the mainland, and that they crossed 
 to plant and fight, taking their boys with them. After- 
 wards at Aroma, they told me they left their wives and 
 daughters at home in charge of a few men, whilst the 
 majority crossed to the main, and stayed away for some 
 time, returning with food, to spend a few days at home 
 on the island. During their absence, the women sail 
 about and trade, going as far as Dedele in Cloudy Bay, 
 being one and the same people. Canoes from the 
 westward might have called at Toulon when the men 
 were on the mainland fighting and planting, and seeing 
 only women, would soon report a woman’s land. Many 
 years ago an Elerna canoe was carried away there : 
 they were kindly treated by the Amazons, but at 
 Dedele on returning, were attacked and several killed ; 
 they n aturally reported a woman’s land too. 
 
 The following week we visited Dedele in Cloudy Bay, 
 which had been visited two years previously, by Messrs. 
 Lawes and McFarlane. The village was barricaded with 
 high and thick mangrove sticks, Avith a narrow opening 
 to the sea. They objected to my landing, and formed a 
 crescent in front of the boat. I sprung ashore and asked 
 for the chief. I held out a piece of hoop-iron, and a 
 rather short, well-built man, dressed with boar’s tusks and 
 other ornaments, stepped forward and took my present. 
 He took me by the hand and led me to the Aillage, just 
 alloAving me to peep in at the opening. I could see 
 the women rushing out by an opening at the other 
 side; pigs, dogs, nets, and other valuables were being 
 
INTERVIEW WITH A CHIEF. 
 
 77 
 
 carried off ; tliey were rushing off wildly away into the 
 bush. I was very anxious to get right in, and meant 
 to before I went to the boat. My beads were all done 
 up in small parcels, so I could throw them about easily. 
 A poor old woman was sitting under the nearest house, 
 bewailing her sad lot, with an infant, the mother of 
 which had very likely gone off to the bush to hide the 
 valuables and to return for the child, or perhaps she 
 was upstairs packing up. I threw the poor old dame a 
 packet of beads for herself and another for the child. 
 Spying another old lady close by on the opposite side, 
 I threw her one. It had the desired effect ; my friend, 
 the chief, who stood guard at the opening, now con- 
 ceived the ‘ happy thought ’ that something could be 
 made out of me. 
 
 ‘ 'Would you like to walk round and look at the 
 village ? ’ 
 
 1 Yes, I should.’ 
 
 ‘ Come, then ; ’ and, giving me his hand, he led me, 
 attended by an armed crowd, to every house, on the 
 verandahs of which I deposited a packet of beads. He 
 was the chief, and was named Gidage. When going 
 round he said — 
 
 * You are no longer Tamate, you are Gidage.’ 
 
 ‘ Eight, my friend ; you are no longer Gidage, you are 
 Tamate.’ 
 
 I gave him an extra present, and he gave me a return 
 one, saying, ‘ Gidage, we are friends ; stay, and I, Tamate, 
 will kill you a pig.’ 
 
 ‘ Ho, Tamate. Gidage must go ; but hopes to return, and 
 will then eat Tamate’s pig.’ f 
 
 ‘Ho, stay now; we are friends, and you must be 
 fed ! ’ 
 
78 
 
 A FEW TRIP INCIDENTS. 
 
 ‘No, I cannot stay; but wlien I return, then pig- 
 eating ’ — not a very pleasant employment when other 
 things can be had. 
 
 Pigs are very valuable animals here, and much thought 
 of, and only true friends can be regaled with them. The 
 women nurse the pig. I have seen a woman suckling- 
 a child at one breast and a small pig at the other ; that 
 was at South Cape. I have seen it also at Hula and 
 Aroma. Proceeding to the beach, we parted, old and 
 well-known friends. 
 
 ‘ Gidage, must you go ? ’ 
 
 ‘ Yes, I cannot now stay, Tamate.’ 
 
 ‘ Go, Gidage ; how many moons until you return ? ’ 
 
 ‘ Tamate, I cannot say ; but hope to return.’ 
 
 ‘ Kaione (Good-bye), Tamate.’ 
 
 ‘ Kaione (Good-bye), Gidage ; ’ and away he started, 
 leaving Tamate on the beach, surrounded by an inter- 
 esting crowd of natives. 
 
 It was near here, a few years after, that a bechc-de-mer 
 party of seven were murdered ; and on the opposite side 
 of the bay two cedar-seekers were waylaid, and lost their 
 lives. We went into Sandbank Bay, and I landed at 
 the village of Domara. What a scene it was ! The 
 women rushed into the long grass, and I was led, after 
 a good dead of talk, up to the village — only to see, 
 at the other end, grass petticoats disappearing, the 
 wearers hidden by the quantity of stuff they were 
 carrying. One poor woman, heavily laden with 
 treasures, had perched above all her child, and away 
 she, too, was flying. Never had white man landed 
 there before, and who knows what he may be up to ? 
 
 The following incident illustrates the shocks a 
 traveller must put up with in New Guinea. 
 
A DINNER SPOILED. 
 
 79 
 
 It was resting-day at a village, far away from the 
 coast, and, spreading my chart out on the middle of 
 the floor in the small native house in which we were 
 camping, several sitting round, I was tracing our 
 journey done, and the probable one to do, when strange 
 drops were falling around, a few on the chart. They 
 came from a bulky parcel overhead. Jumping up 
 quickly, I discovered that they were grandmother’s 
 remains being dried. Our chart was placed on the 
 fire, and the owner was called lustily, who hurriedly 
 entered and walked away with the parcel. It was 
 altogether a hurried time, and spoiled our dinner. 
 
 Feeling convinced that a suitable locality for the 
 settlement of teachers might be found in the neigh- 
 bourhood of Orangerie Bay, I resolved on returning 
 thither, and we anchored at Kuragori, on the east side 
 of Dufaure Island, on April 25th, 1879. I went 
 ashore, and found the people delighted to meet me. 
 The chief, Tutuaunei, seems a fine young fellow. The 
 people are good-looking, clear-skinned, and very few 
 suffering from skin disease. They were quite at home 
 with us, and a number accompanied me inland. In 
 strong trade winds, the vessel could lie under the 
 lee of the mainland opposite. We got on board, and 
 steamed round to the north side, anchoring off Bonabona.. 
 
 I went ashore, and was met on the beach by Meaudi, 
 the chief. He is the chief of four villages, some distance 
 from one another, and all a good size. I visited all 
 four. They have good houses, and all looks clean. 
 I saw no mangroves whatever, and no appearance of 
 swamp. The villages are on the beach, and I believe 
 in good healthy positions. We walked from Bonabona 
 to Sigokoiro, followed by a large number of men. 
 
So 
 
 A FEW TRIP INCIDENTS. 
 
 women, and children, who were much interested in my 
 hoots, clothes, and hat. The chief lives in Gokora, and 
 when on the platform in front of Ids fine large house 
 I gave the present, and we exchanged names. By 
 adopting his name, it meant I was to visit all his very 
 special friends, and give them also presents. I called 
 an old woman sitting by to come to me. Very 
 hesitatingly she came, and stretched forth her arm to 
 receive a present. I asked her to come nearer, which 
 she did, when assured by the chief it was all right, and 
 I put her present of heads round her neck. Then all 
 the people shouted, clapped their hands, and danced 
 with delight. After that, all the old women were pro- 
 duced. We were well known by report to them, and 
 so Tamate passed as a great taubccda (chief). 
 
 Dufaure is a fine island, quite equal to any I have 
 seen in the South Pacific — plantations on all sides, right 
 up to the mountain tops. They know nothing of fire- 
 arms, for, on inquiring if there were birds on the island, 
 they asked if I had a sling. The people are a much 
 finer race, and freer than any I have seen further east. 
 The two races seem to meet here— that from the 
 Iverepunu side, and that from the east. We are 
 anchored some distance from the shore in three fathoms, 
 and further out it is shallower. The opposite shore on 
 mainland looks low and unhealthy. 
 
 There are ten villages on the island, five of which we 
 have visited. 
 
 After visiting the Keakaro and Aroma districts, our 
 journeyings were nearly brought to a sudden termina- 
 tion. When we got half-way between the point next 
 to McEarlane Harbour, and Mailu, where there is a 
 boat entrance, we saw the boat, and waved to them to 
 
“/ FEAR THERE IS MISCHIEF HERE." Si 
 
 approach. They came near to the surf, but not near 
 enough for us to get on board. The native of Hula, 
 from Maopa, got on board. The Hula boy got on board 
 early in the day, leaving us to go on alone. I called 
 out to them to proceed to the boat entrance at Mailu. 
 Great numbers of natives were with us ; we saw, in the 
 distance, numbers more sitting on the beach, and armed. 
 Some of those following us were armed. When within 
 two miles of where the boat was to await us, we came upon 
 a crowd of men and women ; the former carried spears, 
 clubs, or pieces of hard wood, used in opening cocoa- 
 nuts ; the women had clubs. Some time before this, I 
 said to the teacher and Loyalty Islander, ‘ Keep a good 
 look out ; I fear there is mischief here.’ When we came 
 upon the last group, I asked for a coacoanut in exchange 
 for beads ; the man was giving it to me, when a young 
 man stepped forward and sent him back. We hastened 
 our steps, so as to get to the village, where the strangers 
 from Mailukolo and Kapumari might help us. The 
 teacher heard them discussing as to the best place for 
 the attack ; and, not knowing that he knew what they 
 said, he heard much that left no doubt hi our minds 
 that murder was meant. I carried a satchel, which 
 had beads and hoop-iron in it ; they tried to get it. I 
 gave presents of beads ; some were indignantly re- 
 turned. I was in front, between two men with clubs, 
 who kept telling me I was a bad man. I held their 
 hands, and kept them so that they could not use 
 their clubs. The Loyalty Islander had a fowling- 
 piece — thinking we might be away some days, and 
 we might have to shoot our dinners. They tried 
 hard to get him to fire it off, and twice tried to 
 wrest it from him. They knew what guns are, and 
 
82 
 
 A FEW TRIP INCIDENTS. 
 
 with reason. They tried to trip us ; they jostled us. 
 On we went. 
 
 Two men, when near the village, came close up behind 
 me with large wooden clubs, which were taken from 
 them by two women, who ran off to the village. Things 
 looked black, and each of us prayed in silence to Him 
 who rules over the heathen. Soon a man came rushing 
 along, seized the club, and took it from the man on my 
 left, and threw it in the sea. He tried to do the same 
 with the one on my right ; but he was too light a man, 
 and did not succeed. An old woman, when at the 
 point, came out and asked them what they meant, and 
 followed us, talking to them all the way, so dividing 
 their thoughts. An old chief, whom we saw on our 
 way up, came hurriedly along to meet us, calling out, 
 
 ‘ Mine is the peace ! What have these foreigners done 
 that you want to kill them ? ’ He closed up to the 
 teacher, and took him by the hand. Another chief 
 walked close behind me. They began to talk loudly 
 amongst themselves. Some were finding fault that 
 we should have been allowed to get near the village, 
 and others that there was yet time. The boat was 
 anchored some distance off: we got her nearer; and, 
 when ready to move off to the boat, I opened my satchel, 
 gave hoop-iron to our friends the chiefs, and threw beads 
 amongst the crowd. I shouted for Kapumari, and a 
 sturdy young fellow fought his way through the crowd. 
 I gave him a piece of hoop-iron, and, with our friendly 
 chiefs, he forced the crowd back, calling on us to be quick 
 and follow. So into the water we got, the chiefs calling, 
 ‘ Go quick ; go quick ! ’ We got on board ; our China- 
 men got flustered, and very nearly let the boat drift 
 broadside on the beach ; we, with poles and oars, got 
 
OUTRAGES BY WHITE MEN. 
 
 83 
 
 her round and off, sails set, and away for Kerepunu. 
 Before changing clothes, we thanked God our Father 
 for His protection and care over us. We felt He 
 alone did all ; unsettled their thoughts as to who first, 
 where, and when ; and it was He who gave us friends. 
 
 Why should they want to kill us ? It was surely 
 never for the small satchel I carried. I believe it was 
 revenge. Some years ago, a vessel called off Aroma ; 
 trading for food was done on board ; thieving went on ; 
 food was sold twice ; revolvers and rifles were brought 
 out ; the natives were fired on, several were wounded, 
 and very likely some were killed. Natives on the 
 beach were fired upon, and some were wounded who 
 were hiding in the bush close by. We land — the first 
 foreigners to visit them — and on us they will be 
 revenged. What a pity that the same foreigners who 
 fire on the natives do not return the following week, and 
 so receive their deserts ! The wretches steer clear of 
 .such parts. I have asked the teacher to find out, if 
 possible, why Aroma wished to killed Tamate and Taria. 
 
 When in the boat, we asked the Hula boy why he 
 left us and took to the boat. He said he had heard 
 some say we should be killed, and that we would make 
 a fine feast. He did not tell us, because he had not an 
 opportunity, and was afraid the people might hear him 
 if he told, and so he would be killed. 
 
 A week later a chief from Maopa came with a 
 Kerepunu' chief to see me. I recognised him as the 
 one who kept back the crowd the other day at Aroma, 
 and opened the way for me to get into the 'water, and 
 so into the boat. He says, from our landing in the 
 morning they had determined to kill us, but the suitable 
 time did not arrive. When we arrived at the place 
 
 G 2 
 
8 4 
 
 A FEW TRIP INCIDENTS. 
 
 where the large canoes from Toulon and Daunai were 
 lying, it was there arranged by the Aroma people and 
 those from the canoes that Aroma should kill us and 
 have all they could get, and those from the canoes 
 should have the bodies to eat. He says they kept 
 putting it off, until, finally, it was to be done when we 
 were at the boat, then they would have boat and all ; 
 but he and two other chiefs arrived just in time. He 
 says it was not revenge, and, turning to the Kerepunu 
 chief, he said , 1 You know Aroma from of old, and how 
 all strangers are killed.’ I gave him a present, and 
 told him that I hoped to see him soon. 
 
 The inhabitants of the inland villages are probably 
 the aborigines, who have been driven back to the hills 
 by the robuster race now occupying their plantations 
 on the coast. Their habits and customs are curious 
 and interesting. They cook the heads of their slain 
 enemies, to secure clean skulls to put on sacred places. 
 
 They have one great spirit — Palaku Bara, who dwells 
 in the mountains. They worship him unitedly in one 
 place. Each family has a sacred place, where they carry 
 offerings to the spirits of deceased ancestors, whom 
 they terribly fear. Sickness in the family, death, 
 famine, scarcity of fish, &c.— these terrible spirits are 
 at work and must be propitiated. 
 
 Pigs are never killed but in the one place, and then 
 they are offered to the spirit. The blood is poured out 
 there, and the carcase is then carried back to the village, 
 to be divided, cooked, and eaten. 
 
 Pigs’ skulls are kept and hung up in the house. 
 Food for a feast, such as at house-building, is placed 
 near the post where the skulls hang, and a prayer is 
 said. When the centre-post is put up, the spirits have 
 
NATIVE CUSTOMS. 
 
 85 
 
 wallaby, fish, and bananas presented to them, and they 
 are besought to keep that house always full of food, and 
 that it may not fall -when the wind is strong. 
 
 The great spirit causes food to grow, and to him 
 presentations of food are made. 
 
 Spirits, when they leave the body, take a canoe, cross 
 the lagoon, and depart to the mountains, where they 
 remain in perfect bliss ; no work, and nothing to 
 trouble them, with plenty of betel-nuts. They dance 
 all night long, and rest all day. 
 
 When the natives begin planting, they first take 
 a bunch of bananas and sugar-cane, and go to the 
 centre of the plantation, and call over the names of the 
 dead belonging to their family, adding, ‘ There is your 
 food, your bananas and sugar-cane ; let our food grow 
 well, and let it be plentiful. If it does not grow well 
 and plentiful, you all will be full of shame, and so 
 shall we.’ 
 
 When they go on trading expeditions, they present 
 their food to the spirits at the centre post of the house, 
 and ask the spirits to go before them and prepare the 
 people, so that the trading may be prosperous. 
 
 No great work and no expedition is undertaken 
 without offerings and prayer. 
 
 When sickness is in the family, a pig is brought 
 to the sacred place of the great spirit, and killed. The 
 carcase is then taken to the sacred place of the family, 
 and the spirits are asked to accept it. Sins are confessed, 
 such as bananas that are taken, or cocoanuts, and none 
 have been presented, and leave not given to eat them. 
 ‘ There is a pig ; accept, and remove the sickness.’ 
 Death follows, and the day of burial arrives. The 
 friends all stand round the open grave, and the chiefs 
 
86 
 
 A FEW TRIP INCIDENTS. 
 
 sister or cousin calls out in a loud voice, ‘ You have been 
 angry with us for the bananas we have taken (or cocoa- 
 nuts, as the case may be), and you have, in your anger, 
 taken this child. Now let it suffice, and bury your 
 anger.’ The body is then placed in the grave, and 
 covered over with earth. 
 
( S 7 ) 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 SKETCHES OF PAPUAN LIFE. 
 
 Journey inland from Tort Moresby — Evening with a chief — Savage 
 life — Tree-houses — Uakinumu — Inland natives — Native habits 
 of eating — Mountain scenery — Upland natives — Return to Ua- 
 Idnumu — Drinking out of a bamboo — Native conversation — 
 Iveninumu — Munikakila — Native spiritists — Habits and influ- 
 ence of these men — Meroka — Kerianumu — Makapili — The 
 Laroki Falls — Epakari — Return to Port Moresby. 
 
 In 1879 I made a long journey inland, in a north- 
 easterly direction from Port Moresby. I visited many 
 native villages, and explored the mountainous country 
 along the course of and between the Goldie and Laloki 
 rivers. 
 
 The reader will get some notion of the country, the 
 natives, and their customs, from the following extracts 
 taken from a journal kept at that time. 
 
 July 15 th, 1879. — We left Port Moresby at half-past 
 seven, reaching the Laroki at half-past eleven. We 
 crossed in shallow w T ater near to where the Goldie joins 
 the Laroki. We had eighteen carriers, four of them 
 women, who carried more than the men. After resting 
 awhile at the Laroki we went on about three miles 
 further to Moumiri, the first village of the Koiari 
 tribe of Port Moresby. On entering the village we 
 took them by surprise ; the women shouted and the 
 
88 
 
 SKETCHES OF PAPUAN LIFE. 
 
 men rushed to their spears. We called out, Mai, mai, 
 mai (Peace, peace, peace), and, on recognising who we 
 were, they came running twards us with both hands 
 outspread. We met the chiefs wife, and she led us up 
 the hill, where there are a number of good native 
 houses. It was shouted on before us that foreigners 
 and Euatoka had arrived, and down the hill the youths 
 came rushing, shaking hands, shouting, and slapping 
 themselves. We were received by the chief under the 
 house, and there we had to sit for a very long time 
 until his wife returned from the plantation with sugar- 
 cane. Our carriers chewed large quantities of sugar- 
 cane, got a few betel-nuts, and then set off on the return 
 journey. We are now north-east from Port Moresby, 
 thirteen miles, 360 feet above sea-level, the thermometer 
 in shade 84°. The people are small, women not good- 
 looking, and children ill-shaped. The Goldie runs at 
 the base of the hill; the natives get water from it. 
 The houses are very similar to those inland from Kere- 
 punu. On the door hangs a bunch of nutshells, so 
 that when the door is shut or opened they make a 
 noise. Should the occupants of the house be asleep, 
 and their foes come, they would, on the door being 
 opened, be wakened up. Spears and clubs are all 
 handy. 
 
 16th. — Ruatoka, Joe (an African), and I started at 
 half-past ten for Munikaliila, where we hope to get 
 carriers, our Moumiri friends objecting to go. The 
 first village we came to we found deserted, and in one 
 old house the skeleton of a child. We crossed to 
 another village, and coming suddenly upon the few 
 who were at home, they were terribly frightened ; one 
 woman danced up and down the village, and shouted to 
 
KENINUMA. 
 
 S 9 
 
 the people in the neighbouring villages to come at once. 
 We are 1170 feet above sea-level at a village called 
 Keninuma. The people soon gathered round, some 
 with spears, clubs, and shields, others unarmed. Feel- 
 ing cold after the climb, I signed to be allowed to go 
 into a house to change clothing, and was given to 
 understand that a very good place to do it was on the 
 verandah in front of the house, and before the assembly. 
 When the chief, Poroko Butoa, arrived, we were 
 assigned a small house : a man during the evening 
 came rushing along with one piece of sugar-cane and 
 calling out for a tomahawk. A tomahawk for a piece 
 of sugar-cane would be throwing money to the winds. 
 We are E.jST.E. from Moumiri. 
 
 17th . — Bather cold during the night. Five natives 
 who slept in the house with us kept a fire burning all 
 night. A child sitting in front of the house has a taro in 
 one hand, a bamboo pipe in the other ; takes a bite of 
 the taro, then a draw from the charged pipe, and the 
 mixture seems to be thoroughly relished. Feeling sure 
 we should get carriers here, we took no supplies with us, 
 so are now eating the best we can get, doing Banting to 
 perfection. A number of men have been sitting all 
 day about the house making spears, the jawbone and 
 tusks of the wild boar being the only implements. 
 
 18^/t. — Thermometer at sunrise 70°. A number of 
 ugly painted and feathered fellows came in this morn- 
 ing on their way to the village in the valley. The 
 people here are much darker than the coast tribes, and 
 their hair is woolly. Joe said on arriving here, ‘Hallo, 
 these people same as mine, hair just the same.’ They 
 are scarcely so dark. A few are bright-coloured, but all 
 have the woolly hair. A goodly number suffer from 
 
90 
 
 SKETCHES OF PAPUAN LIFE. 
 
 sores on feet and other parts of body. Their one want 
 is a tomahawk. The people seem to live in families. 
 We had a good supper of taro and cockatoo, the latter 
 rather tough. 
 
 \Wi . — The carriers have not yet arrived. In the 
 evening a woman shouted and yelled ; all rushed to 
 their spears, and there was great running, snorting, and 
 blowing at some imaginary enemy. After the chief 
 came in we lay about the fire for some time ; then to our 
 blankets. I was beginning to nod, when some women 
 in a neighbouring house began giggling and laughing. 
 Our friend wakened up and began talking. I told him 
 to sleep ; he answered, Kuku malmta (Smoke, then 
 sleep). He had his smoke, and then began reciting. 
 I remember as a youth, being told, when I could not 
 sleep, to repeat a psalm or paraphrase, or count 100 to 
 myself, and I should soon drop off. This fellow re- 
 peated aloud, and he must have been going over the 
 mythologic lore of his family for very many generations, 
 and yet he did not sleep. At last a smoke, beginning 
 with a scream of Tcuhu. Now surely sleep ; but no, he 
 changed to a low monotonous chant, so grating on the 
 sleepy man’s nervous system that it would have driven 
 many desperate. At last, in the morning hours, the 
 notes became indistinct, long pauses were observed, 
 and, finally, I fell asleep. 
 
 The women carry exceedingly heavy loads up these 
 steep hills. Yesterday one woman had two large kits 
 of taro, and a child of about two years on the top of 
 all. Euatoka shot eight blue pigeons and one bird of 
 paradise to-day : the latter must be eaten with the best 
 of all sauces — hunger. The natives pick up heads, 
 legs, and entrails, turn them on the fire and eat them. 
 
A LIFE OF FEAR. 
 
 9i 
 
 20 th . — Yesterday evening, about six, the carriers came 
 in with great shouting, and glad was I to see my lad 
 and companion Maka then. Great was the joy at 
 the division of salt and tobacco. Before we came here 
 the women and children slept in the bush at night, the 
 men in the village. They are at enmity with the 
 natives on the flat across the ravine, and it seems that 
 sometimes they get a night visit, and may lose a man. 
 For the last two nights the women have been in the 
 village, but every sound heard causes a shout. Last 
 night, when just getting off, they came rushing up to 
 our house, and calling on us to get up with our guns, as 
 their enemies were coming. * Only fire off one, and it 
 will frighten them away.’ We told them to go and 
 sleep, and not be afraid. 
 
 The state of fear of one another in which the savage 
 lives is truly pitiful ; to him every stranger seeks his 
 life, and so does every other savage. The falling of a 
 dry leaf at night, the tread of a pig, or the passage of a 
 bird all rouse him, and he trembles with fear. 
 
 How they relish salt ! The smallest grain is picked 
 carefully up. Fortunately we have a good deal of that 
 commodity. Never have I seen salt-eating like this ; 
 only children eating sugar corresponds to it. 
 
 Here as in all other parts of New Guinea — it is 
 not the most powerful man who fights and kills most, 
 but little abominable sneaks, treacherous in the extreme. 
 Since our arrival here we find the thermometer from 
 82° to 84° during the day, and as low as 68°, more fre- 
 quently 70°, during the night. By bearings we are 
 only about twenty miles in straight course from Port 
 Moresby. 
 
 2\st . — The village is built on the ridge, the chief’s 
 
92 
 
 SKETCHES OF PAPUAN LIFE. 
 
 house right on the high end and looking east, our small 
 house close by on the side of the others, on each side 
 leaving a pathway in the centre. At the very end of 
 the ridge is a house on a very high tree, used as a look- 
 out house and a refuge for women and children in case 
 of attack. There are quite a number of tree-houses in 
 the various villages on the ridges seen from here. The 
 people are anxious to get Maka, a light-coloured and 
 very fine-looking native lad, married to one of their 
 girls and settled down amongst them. I said to our 
 African, ‘ They want Maka to marry one of their girls.’ 
 Joe, I suppose, felt slighted that he too had not an 
 offer, and he replied, ‘ Well, sir, in Madagascar, a very 
 big chief was real anxious I marry his daughter ; fine- 
 looking girl; he make me chief, and give me plenty 
 land ; far cleaner people than them be.’ 
 
 I find the people have the same sign of friendship as 
 in the east end of New Guinea — nose and stomach 
 pointed to. They speak of a land, Daui, with which 
 they are friendly, a very long way off. Daunai, of 
 Orangerie Bay, is called Daui in some places. To their 
 tree-houses they have ladders with long vines on each 
 side to assist ascent. Our delay here will help us to 
 know the people. I have just been showing them 
 the likenesses of two young friends, and the excitement 
 has been great, men, women, and children crowding 
 round, thumbs in mouth, scratching and shaking heads 
 and leaping and screaming, coming again and again 
 to have a look. 
 
 22nd . — A number of strangers slept, or rather made 
 a noise all night in houses close by, and amongst them 
 a spiritist, whose hideous singing and chanting of reve- 
 lations was enough to drive one frantic. We tried to 
 
IEEE HOUSES. 
 
MIL 
 
UAKINUMU. 
 
 95 
 
 quiet him, but it was of no use — silenced he would not 
 he. A man sitting by us when having morning tea 
 asked for some of the salt we were using. We told him 
 it was not salt, but sugar. He insisted it was salt, and 
 we gave him some on his taro. He began eating, and 
 the look of disgust on his face was worth seeing ; he 
 rose up, went out, spat out what he had in his mouth, 
 and threw the remainder away. 
 
 23 rd . — Cannot get the natives to move ; they say 
 they are tired, and will have to rest until to-morrow 
 morning, and they are also afraid of their enemies. The 
 excitement is great, but what it all means is difficult 
 for us to say. Noon : all have cleared out with spears, 
 clubs, and shields, two men having been killed in a 
 village near, and they have gone to get hold of the 
 murderers if they can. Dressed in their feathers and 
 fighting gear, with faces streaked, they do certainly look 
 ugly. After being some time gone they returned, saying 
 the enemy, who were from Eikiri, had gone off to the 
 back mountains. 
 
 28 th . — Left this morning, and had to carry our 
 things, no natives accompanying us. When about 
 four miles on we met natives who willingly took our 
 bags and accompanied us to Uakinumu. The travel- 
 ling was not so bad — a good deal of descending and 
 ascending. Oriope, the old chief, was delighted to see 
 us. His wives and children have gone with great 
 burdens of betel-nuts and taro to trade at the sea-side. 
 The old fellow goes with us. We are now 1530 feet 
 above sea-level, easf-by-south from last camp — Mount 
 Owen Stanley due north. Oriope is Mr. Lawes’ great 
 friend. He used to live in Munikaliila, but trouble 
 through marrying a wife has sent him in here. He 
 
9 6 
 
 SKETCHES OF PAPUAN LIFE. 
 
 seems greatly attached to Euatoka. He is a terrible 
 talker, long-winded and deafening. 
 
 29 tli . — We had a strange sort of a hut for sleeping 
 quarters on the top of a rock. The house, being open 
 all round, felt exceedingly cold when the fire went 
 down. The people here seem much lighter than at the 
 other place, and the children have a more pleasant 
 expression. Basaltic rocks lie scattered about in every 
 direction. We had our flag flying, and the admiration 
 was great, the natives viewing it from underneath, then 
 from a distance, and in each position noticing something 
 new. About half-past eleven we left. The old chief and 
 four carriers went with us. After crossing the head of 
 the Munikahila Creek we passed through fine thickly- 
 wooded country, that may yet become a very extensive 
 coffee country. After travelling for some hours we 
 camped 1800 feet above sea-level. On the way the 
 carriers struck and were for going back, but we insisted 
 on their going on a little further. Strange formation of 
 country all around here. This ridge seems alone in a 
 large basin, one side of which is bare perpendicular rock. 
 There is a good quantity of cedar, but so difficult to 
 get away that it would never pay to work. We are 
 north-east from Uakinumu. 
 
 30 tli . — We started late, continued our journey along 
 the ridge, rising gradually to 2250 feet, and then along 
 a fine level country for some miles, when we began to 
 descend. Soon our old friend began shouting, and re- 
 ceived an answer from a village a very long way off. 
 Close by us was a very steep descent, down which we 
 went till we came under the shadow of a great rock, 
 where we rested, and in about an hour up came ten 
 natives unarmed, touched our chins and we theirs 
 
KENAKAGARA. 
 
 97 
 
 then all squatted to smoke. One of them, some time 
 ago, had been to the coast, and knew Kua ; his joy at 
 now seeing him in here was great. A shot had been 
 tired at a cockatoo before they heard the shouting, and 
 they were much afraid. "When all seemed satisfied, and 
 the crust of the news broken, I proposed a start, so up 
 bundles and away we went. When having gone about 
 two miles there was a halt in an open space, and we 
 were given to understand we must camp there. I could 
 not agree to it, ‘ W e must go on to the village.’ ‘ No, you 
 must stay here.’ 
 
 * We cannot ; we must go on.’ 
 
 ‘ If you go on you will be devoured by the horoma 
 badababa (great pig).’ 
 
 I insisted \ipon going on ; they called to those in the 
 village, and on being answered we again went on for 
 about half-a-mile, when every bundle was put down 
 and a halt called, and again we had to listen to the un- 
 intelligible story of the wild animal or animals that 
 would destroy us. We sat down and tried to get them 
 to see as we did, that a house was necessary for our 
 comfort. A thunderstorm was working up, and soon 
 the rain would be down on us — let us be off for the 
 village. They had a long confab with those in the 
 village on the ridge, which, when ended, seemed 
 favourable ; and so up the steep side of the ridge we 
 went. When halfway up they halted, and wanted us 
 to camp under the shelter of a great rock. Seeing 
 some young men with bundles rounding the rock, I 
 joined myself to them, and away we went, followed 
 by the others to the village. Under the first house in 
 the village sat a man with a large pig standing by him, 
 which he was clapping and scratching, as if to keep it 
 
 H 
 
9 8 
 
 SKETCHES OF PAPUAN LIFE. 
 
 quiet ; and as we went along we saw great pigs under 
 the houses. Certainly they were savage-looking pigs. 
 We were given an open house, and the rain was coining 
 on. I was ascending, when it became necessary to 
 spring from a pig that was after me. Is this Goldie’s 
 big beast the natives told him of ? This is a fine 
 country. We passed through large plantations of yams, 
 taro, sugar-cane, and bananas. During the evening we 
 had crowds of men and lads — no women or children — 
 to see us. Some are quite light copper-coloured, others 
 are very dark ; nearly all are dressed with cassowary 
 feathers ; many with ruffs round their necks made from 
 these feathers. There are none very tall, but all seem 
 well-built men with good muscle. They have the same 
 calabashes and clninain sticks for betel-chewing as at 
 Kerepunu. Some cliunam sticks made from cassowary 
 bones are very well carved. They are a very noisy lot ; 
 one would think they were trying to see who could 
 speak the loudest. They tell us it is impossible to cross 
 to the other side, as further inland the ridge ends — 
 and there is nothing but bare broken rock — inaccessible 
 all round. The majority of the men are bearded and 
 moustached, and have cassowary feathers like a pad 
 behind, on which they sit. They dress with a string. 
 The demand for salt is very great ; grains are picked 
 up, and friends are supplied with a few grains from 
 what they have got for taro. The name of the place is 
 Kenakagara, 1810 feet above the sea-level, E.X.E. from 
 Uakinumu. 
 
 ‘61st . — Great crowds of people keep going and coming. 
 We spent a miserable night. Our old chief, Oriope, 
 had a conclave round the fire, and it took him all night 
 to recount the doings of the Naos (foreigners), not 
 
TALKING A T NIGHT. 
 
 99 
 
 forgetting the toilet. At times lie waxed eloquent, and 
 the whole gully rung again. It was useless telling him 
 to be quiet. All men and lads have the nose and ears 
 pierced. A number of women and children are about. 
 Some of the women are fine, tall, muscular, and clear- 
 skinned, as light-coloured as Eastern Polynesians. The 
 children are lithe, blithe, and hearty — some very dark 
 and some very light. The women have brought large 
 quantities of taro for salt. Oriope is very sleepy, and I 
 have every now and again to waken him up, so that 
 to-night he may sleep soundly, and not prevent our 
 sleeping. 
 
 My name here is Oieva — that of the fine -looking old 
 father of the village. At present I am all alone, the 
 others being out after birds. The natives are very 
 friendly. They relish salt and ginger, which I have 
 tried them with, and which they pronounce good. 
 Euatoka and Maka have returned ; they shot a pig, 
 which the natives who accompanied them cooked and 
 divided, to be carried in. The excitement is great over 
 the division, and the whole assembly are shouting ; 
 those from the hunt recounting the day’s proceedings, 
 acting the shooting of the pig, to the intense delight 
 and amazement of the others. They eat flesh nearly 
 raw. A pig is put on the fire until the hair is well 
 singed off ; then division is made, then re-divided, and 
 eaten. They take a piece between the teeth, hold with 
 one hand, and with a bamboo knife cut close to the 
 mouth. A bird is turned on the fire a few times, then 
 cut up and eaten. 
 
 August lszt — Left this morning to look for a track. 
 We passed through a fine large village about one mile 
 from here, and were joined by sixty men, all armed with 
 
IOO 
 
 SKETCHES OF PAPUAN LIFE. 
 
 spears and clubs, and faces painted. They accompanied 
 us for about four miles, and then turned away to the 
 south. We continued the ridge for some miles further, 
 until we could see that all round were great inaccessible 
 mountains with bare faces. It begins with the Astrolabe, 
 extending west until Vetura is reached, and then away 
 east by south until the centre of the range is reached. 
 In some places it has a perpendicular rock face of many 
 hundred feet ; in other places it is broken rock with 
 bush growth, and only at very long distances can tracks 
 be found, and even then it is difficult to get up. We 
 descended to the river, a large one, flowing west, through 
 great rocks, often lost, sometimes only pools appearing 
 here and there until, some distance down, and when 
 800 feet above sea-level, it comes out a fine flowing 
 river. We had a good bath, and, of course, the inev- 
 itable kuku, and then skirted the side of the ridge, 
 passing close by and under great rocks and over-hang- 
 ing cliffs, and up a most extraordinary steep path into 
 splendid sugar-cane and taro plantations. Weary, we 
 sat down and ate sugar-cane tinder the shade of a great 
 rock. This West Indian “long breakfast” goes well 
 when thirsty and hungry. The natives who accom- 
 panied us, having caught a large rat and frog, turned 
 them on the fire and ate them. 
 
 A truly wonderful country ! What terrible convul- 
 sions of nature there must have been here ere these 
 great boulders were displaced and rolled about like 
 mere pebbles ! The villages are so built that they are 
 accessible only on two sides by very narrow tracks. 
 We saw no game of any kind, yet the cassowary must 
 abound somewhere near, as every one of the natives 
 wears great head-dresses and neck-ruffs made from the 
 
A ROUGH COUNTRY. 
 
 IOI 
 
 feathers. Our highest ascent to-day was to 2360 feet 
 above sea-level ; we call it Mount Bellamy ; it stands 
 out alone, and from it we saw the Astrolabe, Vetura, 
 and Munikahila. 
 
 2nd . — We left this morning for a pig and cassowary 
 hunt, but were unsuccessful. We bagged four cockatoos, 
 one green parrot, one brueros, and three pigeons. Of 
 my travelling in this land, to-day beats all ; it was 
 along mere goat tracks on the edge of frightful preci- 
 pices, down precipitous mountain-sides and up steep 
 ridges, on hands and knees at times, hanging on to roots 
 and vines, and glad when a tree offered a little rest and 
 support. I gave it up at last, hungry and weary, and 
 let the others proceed. I stayed with a large party of 
 natives who were getting a kind of large almond with a 
 very thick fleshy rind, the nut inside very hard, which 
 they broke open with stones, filling their kits with the 
 kernels. They call the nut okari. They fed me with 
 sugar-cane, taro, and okari, and then got leaves for me 
 to rest on. They had all their arms handy ; I was, as I 
 am always, unarmed, and felt thoroughly comfortable 
 with them. Only once in New Guinea have I carried 
 a weapon, and then we had spears thrown at us. I 
 consider a man safer without than with arms. The 
 return ‘ home ’ was frightfully steep and trying to 
 wearied and hungry folks. 
 
 3rd . — Youths busy with feathers of cockatoos got 
 yesterday, making head-dresses. They take the feather, 
 strip it down, throw the quill away, fasten all the 
 stripped feathers neatly together, dry in sun, then bind 
 round their combs. One youth is preparing a head- 
 covering from the bark of the mulberry : he is making 
 native cloth by chewing the bark, and no wonder he 
 
102 
 
 SKETCHES OF PAPUAN LIFE. 
 
 complains of his jaws being sore, for it is a long job. I 
 gave the children presents of heads this morning, and 
 some of the old gentlemen objected, saying they ought 
 to have had them ; but I did not understand them. It 
 is very convenient at times not to understand what 
 is said — it is thoroughly native. We have been asking 
 them if they will receive teachers, and they all say 
 yes, and at once, for it means tomahawks, knives, and 
 salt. They say, ‘ To-morrow we’ll all go and get the 
 two teachers at Munikahila and bring them here now.’ 
 
 We here are in excellent health and spirits ; a little 
 disappointed at not being able to cross. Certainly we 
 have not lived on the best, and we have camped any- 
 where. I like these mountaineers — free, independent, 
 and kind. When they cook taro, if near, we get a 
 hot taro to eat, and often they bring hot taro to the 
 house. They bring their presents of taro and sugar- 
 cane and at once walk away. They have very good 
 houses, thatched with grass, some with a verandah on 
 two sides, and all built six feet and more from the 
 ground. When we were away yesterday, a wild boar 
 from the bush took possession of the village. Often 
 when the natives are in the bush they have to seek 
 refuge in climbing trees from the savage tuskers, 
 especially if they have been speared and are determined 
 to fight. Our flag is flying, to signify that it is ‘ resting 
 day.’ 
 
 The natives very seldom bury their dead, leaving the 
 body in a house set apart for it, which they often visit. 
 When a number of deaths take place, they leave the 
 village and settle somewhere else not far off. There is 
 one grave here, near to our house, on which a tobacco 
 plant is growing, a bamboo pipe, the property of the 
 
RETURN TO UAKINUMU. 
 
 103 
 
 deceased, alongside, and a few sticks on end with yams 
 , on top. When they do bury, the body is placed 
 standing in the grave. 
 
 Ath . — We left Ivenakagara this morning, accompanied 
 by natives. Our friends soon left us, and we lost our 
 way, and after some hours’ travelling found ourselves 
 in a thick bush and surrounded by precipices. It has 
 been up hill and down dale with a vengeance, trying 
 hard to get to the south-west. At last, wet through and 
 thoroughly tired, we camped to have breakfast, dinner, 
 and supper in one. We were ten hours on the tramp, 
 and carrying our bags, so feel ready for a night’s rest. 
 
 5tli . — We see where we are ; but how to get out is the 
 problem to be solved. Euatoka has gone to look for a 
 track. We had a fine night, a roaring fire at our feet, 
 and so enjoyed sleep. Camping this way is preferable 
 to living in native huts, far more comfortable and 
 enjoyable ; but for our work it is better for us to be with 
 the natives. Uakinumu bears south-west by west from 
 us now, and could be reached in a few hours, if only we 
 could get down the precipice. Eua has returned. When 
 some distance off he heard cooeying, and responded, 
 when our old friend, who had been looking for us in a 
 great state of fear, shouted his name. Eua told him to 
 follow, and lie did so, arriving at the camp soon after. 
 He was so excited he could not speak, but embraced 
 us all round and then sat down. 
 
 After breakfast we set off, each carrying a bundle. 
 The travelling was difficult, until we arrived on the path 
 leading to the creek and up to Uakinumu. When on 
 the spur, the old man shouted for the youths to come 
 and help us ; they cooed back, and we hoped to see 
 them in about an hour, or at the most two hours ; after 
 
104 SKETCHES OF PAPUAN LIFE. 
 
 waiting and no one coming, we descended, and when at 
 the creek met a youth coming slowly along and saying 
 others were following. I felt sure they delayed their 
 coming to meet us until we should be near the village, 
 where they would take the bags and receive tobacco 
 and salt ; but they were sold ; we trudged on, and would 
 not let them have a bag. We took no notice of those 
 we met, and to their solicitations asking to carry bags 
 we turned a deaf ear. The chiefs eldest son came along 
 and begged to have my bag. No, on no condition. 
 The poor old chief was in a sad state ; but as we are 
 likely to require their services some future day, it is 
 necessary to teach them that for work or service the}' 
 will be paid, but for skulking, and hoping to get tobacco 
 and salt, their hopes are futile. We reached the village, 
 and Oriope did all he possibly could to keep us. No, 
 on we will go ; his sleepy boys may sleep on. We gave 
 him and his little grandchild who accompanied him 
 presents, bade him good-bye, and away. 
 
 6th. — Here, and in all the villages we have been, we 
 have seen very few women and girls, and very few of 
 the young men seem to be married. Do they kill the 
 girls when born ? 
 
 7th . — Left this morning for a mountain close by, 
 hoping to see the windings of the Laroki from it. We 
 had to descend 1000 feet, and then ascend 1800. From 
 the droppings about, I should say the cassowary and pig 
 abound in the gullies about this mountain. We found on 
 the top a deserted village and five cocoanut-trees. We 
 could make nothing of the Laroki, because of thick bush 
 on top. We saw that the Munikahila creek flows west 
 and south, until, due north of this, it turns sharp and 
 flows north by east and falls into the Goldie. We reached 
 
DRINKING OUT OF A BAMBOO. 
 
 105 
 
 camp with thoroughly whetted appetites, and enjoyed 
 breakfast and dinner of pigeons and taro. We call the 
 mountain Mount Elsie. It is north of Vetura, and 
 west and south of Keninumu. We have seen four new 
 villages close to one another where a teacher could work 
 well. We have now five positions for teachers, and I 
 hope before we have finished with this inland trip to 
 have thirty, giving four and five villages to each teacher. 
 In crossing one of the spurs a native and his son brought 
 us bananas, and water in a bamboo. It is difficult to 
 drink out of a bamboo. Place the open end to the mouth, 
 raise gradually, look out, here it comes — steady. Ah, too 
 much raised; it is a deluge streaming over you and 
 nearly choking you. Try again — well, a little better, 
 yet far from perfect. Choking, are you ? Never mind, 
 practise, and you will soon be an expert — a native in 
 drinking truly. The natives have been having a feast. 
 They began with boiled bananas and finished with a 
 large snake cooked in pots. It was cut up and divided 
 out amongst all — sixteen eggs were found in her, a little 
 larger than a good-sized fowl’s egg. They seemed to 
 relish it much, and the gravy was much thought of. 
 They say pig is nothing compared to snake. Ala, well, 
 tastes differ. 
 
 9 tli . — We had a few noisy strangers in the village, 
 and they seemed to be anxious that all they had to say 
 should be heard in every house. The conversation is 
 kept up by the inmates of the vai’ious houses, and at 
 times all are speaking and trying to drown one another. 
 A lull comes, and you fancy the turmoil is ended, and 
 so roll on your side for a sleep ; but, alas, it was only 
 drawing breath, the noise being perhaps worse than 
 before. Our chief and his wife had a quarrel over 
 
io6 
 
 SKETCHES OF PAPUAN LIFE. 
 
 something or other last evening. Of course the woman 
 had the best of it. Strange, she said very little, hut 
 that little seemed to be to the point. Every now and 
 again he would shout, Pirikava ! pirikava ! pirikava ! 
 (Dear me ! dear me ! dear me !), and then scream and 
 rage. The wife would then laugh at him, which made 
 him worse, screaming and dancing more than ever. 
 She would then say something, which he would answer, 
 and so quieted him down a little. All have gone 
 hunting to-day — men, women, and children, pigs and 
 dogs. Before leaving, they told us if we saw any one 
 sneaking about, we were to be sure to shoot them ; but 
 if they came up openly to us, and pointed to the nose 
 and stomach, they were friends, and had come for salt 
 and tobacco. We get our water in canvas bags, and 
 teachers or missionaries coming inland will require a 
 set of water-bags made from the very best canvas. 
 
 11th . — A number of natives have gone to Port 
 Moresby, to help Pua and Maka with tomahawks, salt, 
 &c. After they left we went to the bush, and cut down 
 a number of trees for posts for a house. The chief, 
 Poroko, has given us land, at an elevation of 1260 feet ; 
 splendid view all round : and if not healthy, I know not 
 where to go, unless it be to the top of Mount Owen 
 Stanley. There will be plenty of room for taro, sugar- 
 cane, and coffee plantations. A woman often passes 
 us with a frightful load of taro and sugar-cane on 
 her back, and on the top of all an infant in a net 
 basket. She goes to the next house, swings the infant 
 kit off first, placing it on the ground, where the infant 
 in it kicks and rolls, but cannot get out until the kits of 
 taro and sugar-cane are safely housed. 
 
 1-lth . — This morning, after an early breakfast, we 
 
NA LIVE FRIENDLINESS. 
 
 107 
 
 started with the Port Moresby natives for Munikahila, 
 they being anxious to secure a supply of betel-nuts to 
 return with. Have promised our old friend Oriope of 
 Uakinumu, before we started on the Eikiri trip, that 
 if he led us across and gave us bearers, all should have 
 tomahawks, knives, &c. He did not carry out his 
 part, and the bearers from him returned, leaving us 
 inland. I was anxious to pay them for what they did, 
 so we went on there with tomahawks, tobacco, and salt. 
 We were about two miles from the village, when we 
 shouted, and were replied to, and soon four young- 
 fellows came rushing along, in a great state of perspira- 
 tion, and very excited, rubbing our chins and throwing 
 their arms around us, highly delighted that we had 
 returned. They were not going to serve us as they did 
 the last time. We reached the village, and were seated 
 with strangers and surrounded by old friends, when 
 Oriope, who had been on his plantation, came along to 
 where we were, nearly breathless, and streaming with 
 perspiration ; he threw his arms around me, embraced 
 me, rubbing his dirty moist cheeks on mine, sitting down 
 and not speaking for some time. When he began, he 
 said he was afraid we were terribly offended and would 
 not return ; but, having returned to him, we must stay. 
 Ho, we cannot ; we must return to Keninumu that 
 night. Ah, he could manage it ; he would have us tied, 
 and so detain us. Four coast natives who knew the 
 Koiari language were with us. We told our old friend 
 we wanted a large quantity of betel-nuts, and that lie 
 had better set out at once for them. Soon the women 
 and lads were off. We then removed to our old house 
 on the rock, and there told him, through the interpreter, 
 what we had expected of him, and that he had not done 
 
io8 SKETCHES OF PAPUAN LIFE. 
 
 it, but that having told him we should pay them, we 
 had come now to do so for the journey made. We gave 
 our tomahawks, tobacco, and salt, and the old man was 
 truly delighted, saying, 1 1 and my people will take you 
 wherever we may go with safety.’ He does not go to 
 sea on the other side, as Mr. Lawes supposed, and says 
 it is impossible to cross over unless we go up by Yule 
 Island, and there he says it is dangerous because of the 
 cannibals. In returning, I saw, for the first time in 
 Hew Guinea, a bush of the real South Sea Island Jcava 
 {Piper metliysticum). 
 
 17 tli . — We have just had a service, and through 
 Ivena we have told the natives the object of our coming 
 and staying, that they might know of the true God, and 
 of Jesus Christ the Saviour. It was interesting to 
 mark the different expressions on their faces as they 
 heard for the first time of God — the God of love, and 
 that as His servants we were here. When told of the 
 resurrection they looked at one another ; some laughed, 
 others seemed serious. They were very particular in 
 their inquiries as to the name of the Great Spirit, and 
 of His Son — forgetting, and returning to hear it again. 
 
 18£/i. — Here we are at Uakinumu for another trip ; 
 but alas, alas ! cannot get carriers. The young men 
 are all off wallaby-hunting, so we must start. This 
 evening a woman came in with several bamboos of 
 grubs, which were cooked in the bamboos, then spread 
 on leaves ; some salt was dissolved in the mouth and 
 squirted over all, and it was amusing to see the gusto 
 with which men, women, and children partook. Oriope 
 is very persistent in wanting a teacher. He was 
 greatly delighted when I gave him a large knife ; lie 
 examined it all over, then pressed it with tender 
 
A SPIRITIST. 
 
 109 
 
 affection to his bosom. Fearing lest some friends who 
 are with him at present might ask it from him, he 
 returned it to me, requesting me to keep it until they 
 left. 
 
 20 th . — Last night, after turning-in, I heard a 
 peculiar noise as of some one in great distress, then 
 loud speaking in a falsetto voice, and knew then what 
 was up — we had a spiritist in the village, and revela- 
 tions were now about to he made. We were all named, 
 and the places we were to visit. I felt somewhat 
 anxious as to the revelation, for if it should be the least 
 doubtful as to our going, no native would stir with us. 
 However, the revelation, on being interpreted to us 
 by Kena, was all right; we were good men, and kind, 
 and the villages would all willingly receive us. The 
 spirit dilated at length on the good qualities of foreign 
 tobacco and the badness of the native stuff, and wound 
 up by asking for some foreign. Oriope at once got up 
 and gave from his own stock what was wanted. These 
 native spiritists are terrible nuisances ; they get what- 
 ever they ask, and the natives believing so thoroughly 
 in them, they have the power of npsetting all arrange- 
 ments and causing serious trouble. This morning I 
 found our spirit friend to be a man who sat in our 
 house all day yesterday, a stranger from an inland 
 village. He has quite a different look from the other 
 natives — an anxious, melancholy expression. While at 
 morning coffee he came and sat down alongside of us 
 all right, and we learned from him that the spirit of 
 a deceased friend comes into him, and then things are 
 revealed, the spirit speaking through him. He says, 
 when we were at Eikiri, a few weeks ago, he knew it, 
 and told the people of his village of it. 
 
I IO 
 
 SKETCHES OF PAPUAN LIFE. 
 
 The wallaby-hunters are to come in this afternoon 
 with great supplies. When sitting round the fire with 
 our old chief, we asked him if he knew of any tailed 
 folks about inland. ‘ Oh dear, yes.’ And then he 
 gave us a perfect and laughable description of what 
 must be some creature of the monkey tribe. It climbs, 
 laughs, and talks a peculiar language of its own ; it 
 scratches the head, slaps the thigh, and sits down to eat 
 like a man. I then said, ‘ But they are not really 
 men?’ ‘ Well, not exactly, but very near it; they 
 are hairy all over, and some are perfectly black.’ The 
 tail, according to his description, must be about a 
 fathom long. We are to see them, and must, he says, 
 secure one or two, dead or alive. Our spirit is out in 
 his prognostications, the wallaby-hunters have not 
 returned, and we cannot leave to-morrow. 
 
 21 st . — Our spirit friend is quite out as yet, for here 
 we are nursing Patience, and trying to make her a dear 
 friend. We are promised a start to-morrow. In the 
 evening the hunters came in with large supplies of 
 wallaby. They report innumerable horses and for- 
 eigners as having gone to Ivupele ; we suppose it to be 
 Goldie’s party. From to-day’s shooting, the old man 
 got a green parrot, and devoured it raw. Oriope 
 dressed himself in his fighting gear, and went through 
 a few antics ; he looked a perfect fiend. He is very 
 proud of a stone club he possesses with a piece broken 
 off; he says it was broken in felling a tremendous 
 fellow in a neighbouring village. He killed him. 
 ‘ What, stand before me ! ’ 
 
 22ncl . — I was eating a banana this morning, when I 
 was told not to throw the skin away, but hand it to 
 them, which I did, when it was passed round and 
 
4 NATIVE STANCE. 
 
 i 1 1 
 
 kissed by all with short ejaculations. I asked what it 
 meant, and was told it was their manner of thanking 
 the spirits for ripe bananas. We started at eight A.M. 
 with eight carriers and our old friend, and twenty 
 inland natives returning home with wallaby ; one poor 
 woman had two large kits on her back, and an infant 
 in another, hanging in front of her. We were seven 
 hours on the tramp, along a good path, on which horses 
 could get along well. The most difficult ascent was 
 shortly after we left Uakinumu ; but the path was 
 good. The last hour of travelling was in a thunder- 
 storm, with a regular tropical pour of rain. When we 
 neared the village Marivaeanumu, the men came 
 rushing out with their spears and shields, thinking it 
 was an attacking party ; but on seeing Maka, who was 
 just behind the first native, and I following up, they 
 shouted out, Nao, nao ! (Foreigners), and ran back with 
 their spears. The village is small, and the houses very 
 dilapidated ; it is 1800 feet above sea-level. Maka was 
 buying taro with salt, and having finished, some natives 
 noticed damp salt adhering to his hand ; they seized 
 the hand, and in turn licked it until quite clean. 
 Grains of salt falling were sought for and picked up. 
 The shields here are the same as at Hood Bay, beauti- 
 fully made. They are going to fight soon with another 
 district, and are making great preparations in spears, 
 clubs, and shields. 
 
 22>rd . — Our spiritist gave us a very short and indis- 
 tinct seance last night. A man speared the other day 
 in a wallaby hunt, near the Laroki, he told us, was 
 dead. He seemed to be raving a great deal, and wound 
 up the first part with, Nao Tcuku daure (Foreign tobacco 
 is bad). Continuing to rave and disturb sleep, I told 
 
I 12 
 
 SKETCHES OF PAPUAN LIFE. 
 
 Oriope that, if that spirit did not at once go hack where 
 it came from, I should certainly have to make it; 
 lie reported what I said, and the spirit thought it 
 advisable to leave. We started this morning after 
 a good breakast, and had good travelling across 
 a fine level country E.S.E. for about four hours, 
 crossing several times the head of the Laroki : it is a 
 magnificent country for horses. In somewhat thick 
 scrub, a youth met the first of our party, and was 
 fraternising very feelingly with them : I appeared, and 
 he took to his heels, and no calling of friends or 
 foreigners could bring him back. We came suddenly 
 upon a woman and two children, and, poor things, they 
 went into a terrible state ; nothing would comfort 
 them ; beads, tobacco, and salt lost their charm on 
 them. The family pig was with them ; it danced, 
 grunted, advanced, retired, and finally made at me. 
 In the morning I took a piece of plaster from my heel, 
 and threw it into the fireplace ; instant search was 
 made for it, by about a dozen natives ; it was found 
 and handed back to me, they making signs that I 
 should throw it somewhere else. Yesterday morning 
 I unthinkingly put the loose hair from my comb into 
 the fire, and great was the outcry. 
 
 We are now in Nameanumu, in the Sogeri district, 
 and in a fine house twelve feet from the ground. We 
 are about 1530 feet above sea-level. Teachers here 
 need have no difficulty about food ; there is a great 
 abundance all round of taro, banana, sugar-cane, and 
 bread-fruit. A teacher with some ‘ go ’ in him, and a 
 good earnest wife to help him, would do well here. 1 
 am inclined to think an easier way here will be from 
 Moumiri ; but we have to travel with natives where 
 
POWER OF THE SPIRITISTS. 113 
 
 they can take us with safety to themselves. Sitting 
 round the fire a little while ago, our spirit friend having 
 just left us, an old woman shouted out to Oriope to 
 look out, as the spirit was about to go through the 
 thatch near to where he was sitting. Instant search 
 was made, but nothing found. She then called out from 
 her verandah that it had gone, as Itua and Maka were 
 doing something with their guns. I may say the old 
 woman was with us last night, and heard my threat. 
 We have had the description here of some other animal 
 that is in the Ivupele and Moroka districts. It is a 
 dangerous one to go near, and several have lost their 
 lives from it. 
 
 24 tli . — Very heavy rain. A number of people have 
 come in from the villages to have a look at us, so I 
 have to go through the process of baring arms and 
 chest. This forenoon they described an animal to us 
 that I think must be the tiger — a long animal, with a 
 long tail and large paws, treads lightly when seeing its 
 prey, and then bounds upon it, tearing the bowels out 
 first. They say they are as long as the house — twelve 
 feet. We are not prepared to tackle such customers. Our 
 host is a quiet man, with a very pleasing expression of 
 countenance. I like the people much, and pray God 
 the day is near when they shall have the Gospel 
 preached unto them, and receive it, and know it to be 
 the power of God unto salvation. Evil spirits reign 
 over them, and the utterance of every rascally spiritist 
 is thoroughly believed. 
 
 They seem very much attached to their children, 
 and in their own peculiar way, I dare say, love their 
 wives. Husband and wife meeting after a separation 
 is strange. Some who returned with us had been away 
 
 I 
 
SKETCHES OF PAPUAN LIFE. 
 
 114 
 
 for a fortnight ; their wives looked pleased when they 
 saw them, so did the husbands ; not a word was spoken, 
 only a look ; clubs and spears were put down, and the 
 husbands went to where other men were sitting, the 
 wives to light fires and cook food ; when cooked, the 
 wife took it to the husband, who ate a little, gave away 
 some, and then went and sat by his wife. I have 
 noticed that the wives are particularly happy when 
 preparing this return food. Oriope’s wife, who accom- 
 panied us, is ill with a cold ; I wished her to take a 
 :lose of chlorodyne, but she cried and hesitated much ; 
 the old man then took the cup and told her to look ; 
 he drank some of it, said it was not bad, and then 
 pressed her to drink it off, which she did. 
 
 25th . — We left this morning at eight, and arrived at 
 Orofedabe, in the Favele district, at one r.M. The 
 walking was good and steady, the first few miles along 
 the valley beneath a mountain in the Sogeri district, 
 which we called Mount Nisbet, and the range near to 
 Eikiri. We crossed the Laroki several times, and sat 
 near its head ; then ascended an easy ridge of the 
 Owen Stanley Range. We travelled for about two hours 
 along this ridge, then descended, crossing two streams, 
 which we suppose to be the head streams of the Kemp 
 Welch, flowing into Hood Bay. There are six small 
 villages on ridges close by, high mountains all round, 
 and not far off the mountain on which the wild animal 
 lives. They tried to persuade us that this was Meroka, 
 and there was no use our going further ; but we could not 
 believe it, and I brought my compass out, and pointed 
 to them where Eikiri, Sogeri, Ivupele, and Hapele were, 
 and told them where I expected to find Meroka, which 
 cannot be very far off. When they saw I knew some- 
 
MEROKA. 
 
 ii5 
 
 thing of our position, they said we could not get to 
 Meroka, because of rocks and wild beasts. At the 
 village we slept the last two nights they did all they 
 could to detain us, because of the salt and beads. 
 They were assisted by Oriope, who was anxious 
 that all should go to his cousin and friends, with 
 whom we were staying. In a conversation they had 
 under the house, shortly after we arrived, I could hear 
 sufficient to enable me to understand they would keep us 
 there, and not let other villages get salt and beads. I 
 got thoroughly vexed with the old man, and told him he 
 could return home, and that unless we saw numerous 
 villages with plenty of people we should not again 
 return here. He turned right round and told us we 
 should see Favele and Meroka, and many villages, 
 only we must return to his cousin’s; that was all 
 right, we certainly should return. This morning I 
 told him to remain and take care of his wife ; that the 
 people here would lead us and carry our things. He 
 beaded of me to leave some of the things to ensure our 
 return, and I did so. Some of the people here are very 
 dark and others very light. 
 
 26 th. — They tried hard to prevent our going to 
 Meroka this morning, saying we should be eaten by 
 the [Jakoni (wild beast) — and how could they return ? 
 That would not do — go I must ; so I got the things 
 out, and asked some Meroka natives, who had come in, 
 to pick them up and let us start. They refused, and 
 joined in with our friends, saying we had better remain. 
 Ho ; I must see Meroka, and until I saw it not a taro 
 would be bought nor a pile of salt given. They all sat 
 down, looking true savages. After some time I said, 
 ‘ Meroka, or we return at once.’ I got my bag and 
 
 I 2 
 
SKETCHES OF PAPUAN LIFE. 
 
 1 16 
 
 went on to tlie path ; they got up, and called to me to 
 come hack — they would go to Meroka, but leave the 
 things, and return here to sleep. No ; I must have the 
 things; I might want to sleep at Meroka. That was 
 terrible, the salt would be finished, and there would be 
 none for them here. Would I not consent to their taro 
 being bought, and then they would go with me ? No ; 
 Meroka first, and taro when we return. 
 
 Seeing there was nothing for it — that go I would— 
 they consented, and the Meroka folks picked up the 
 things, and away we went. It was a short walk across 
 the side of a ridge, down about GOO feet and up to 1500, 
 and then along another ridge. We soon had crowds 
 to see us, men, women, and children ; and all were 
 delighted, for we bought their taro. The village we 
 stayed at was new, and they told us formerly they lived 
 further in on the mountain, but a man was eaten by the 
 Jakoni, and they came down. A number of natives 
 were in mourning for the man eaten. After some time 
 we got up to ascend the ridge, to have a good view of 
 the villages, and decide on our position. They tried 
 hard to prevent us, but we went on, a few following 
 .to the next village. They pretended great fear of the 
 Jakoni, and at some places begged of us to tread lightly, 
 ■and' not to speak. It was all a ruse to get us hack. 
 We went on, and up to the highest village, where we 
 had a splendid view. We counted fourteen villages on 
 the ridges in the Meroka basin and on the other side of 
 the river we had crossed, and as many more known as 
 Havele. I believe it would be much easier to get here 
 from Eikiri than from Sogeri. The natives of Orira- 
 mamo, the highest village, told us they went from there 
 to Eikiri in one day. 
 
CHARMS. 
 
 i >7 
 
 The people of Meroka are very mixed, some very 
 dark, others very light. Some of the women had quite 
 an Eastern Polynesian look ; some of the children were 
 well-formed, and really pretty. A few men had light- 
 coloured whiskers ; curly heads abounded, although a 
 number had straight hair. They say they are not 
 Koiari. The Koiari comprises Munikahila, Eikiri, 
 Sogeri, Taburi, Makapili Pakari ; and Eikiri is N.W. 
 from Oriramamo ; Mount Bellamy is W.N.W. A high 
 round mountain, I have named Ben Cruachan, east ; 
 Mount Xisbet, W.S.W. The high rock on the easterly 
 side of Mount Nisbet is just over the house where we 
 slept, and will be known in future as the Clachan. They 
 say there are five kinds of wild animals on the mountains 
 at the back, and but for these they could easily cross to 
 Kupele. The Jakoni, Gomina, and Agila are very large 
 and fierce. The Papara and Gadana are small, but 
 fierce. We were eating biscuits, and they begged for a 
 very small piece each, to keep as a charm to help them 
 catch pigs. Hairs from the beard are in great demand 
 as charms. Having seen all we wanted to, and not 
 being able to persuade the natives to accompany us up 
 to the mountain to see the wild animals, I decided to 
 return to Orofedabe ; so we returned to the village, gave 
 the taro we bought to the people, paid our attendants 
 and for the house where our tilings were, and away we 
 went. Our friends were glad to see us, and rejoiced 
 greatly when the taboo was taken off the salt, and taro 
 was bought. We are having rain and thunderstorms 
 every afternoon. 
 
 21th . — Maka poised a stick twelve feet long on his 
 finger ; the natives tried it and it failed ; again Maka 
 did it, and all who were looking on came to the 
 
1 1 8 SEE TCHES OF PAPUAN LIFE. 
 
 conclusion it was very easy for Mm to do, as a spirit 
 held it for him. In each place we have been, when at 
 prayers, all the natives are most respectful, keeping 
 perfect silence and bending their heads. We had a fine 
 tramp back to-day, and a refreshing bath in the Laroki 
 after it. We have paid our carriers, and they are 
 rejoicing greatly. We were glad to find our old friend 
 and his wife well, and the things we left just as we 
 hung them up. They are very anxious to have teachers 
 here. We were telling them that we could see no 
 people, and they have gone and brought in great crowds, 
 saying, ‘ No people— what are these ? ’ I cut up 
 tobacco and spread it out on a leaf in the centre of 
 the crowd, and called out, ‘ For Sogeri.’ One of their 
 number was appointed by them, and he distributed it, 
 all sitting cpiietly round. I got some salt in a paper, 
 and did as with the tobacco. All rose, and in order 
 approached, took some and retired, leaving the re- 
 mainder, nearly half, for a very old man. The beads I 
 gave to the women, the men saying they ought to have 
 had them too. ' Come and live with us ; there is no 
 place like Sogeri — it is good, it is large, it is peaceful, 
 and there is plenty of food.’ So say the Sogerians. I 
 was sitting on the ladder of the house, the crowd sitting- 
 round. Eua was in the bush with his gun ; he fired at 
 a bird, and it was amusing to see the simultaneous jerk 
 of the crowd when they heard the shot. • 
 
 2Wi . — Last night a chief, Biaiori, of Eribagu, slept in 
 the house with us, to be ready to lead us to his village 
 and other villages about in the morning. We started 
 about half-past seven ; but it was evident at the start he 
 had been talked over during the night in quiet whisper- 
 ings, so as not to take us anywhere but his own village. 
 
NA Tl VE SELFISHNESS. 1 1 9 
 
 We walked about a mile and a half, and came to his 
 village, in a fine dry position, much preferable to the one 
 we had left — good houses, one house floored with cedar 
 slabs, and having a fine verandah all round. I wished to 
 see a chief I had met yesterday, Jaroga, and was told 
 he was at the next village, so we up with our bundles 
 and away for about half a mile furthur on, to a nice 
 clean village. I at once asked Jaroga to lead us to the 
 places he named yesterday ; he was quite willing, and 
 began pointing in the various directions, and naming 
 the villages, but was soon silenced by signs and words 
 from others ; he then said he could not go ; so we left 
 to go to Epakari ; a young man very much attached to 
 Maka, and who has been with us for ten days, having 
 promised yesterday to lead us there. We had to carry our 
 bags — not a very agreeable job. We had great excite- 
 ment at leaving, our old chief insisting on our going back 
 to Uakinumu ; but we had discarded him, and were 
 determined to find our own way should Someri, Maka’s 
 friend, fail us. I gave orders to keep a good look-out 
 on Someri, who was carrying a bundle, and he was 
 given into Maka’s care. Our young friend was very 
 quiet, and tried skulking behind and moving on fast 
 ahead. When crossing a ridge about three miles from the 
 village, I was leading, when we heard Maka calling for 
 Someri. Eua at once returned, and found the bird had 
 flown, leaving the bundle, but carrying with him the 
 camp tomahawk, which Maka had foolishly let him have 
 to cut a stick with. It would be folly to return to get the 
 tomahawk, so we kept south and west for some distance, 
 when we came to a deserted village ; then we turned 
 west. We crossed the Laroki several times before we 
 came into the open country ; at our last crossing we met 
 
120 
 
 SKETCHES OF PAPUAN LIFE. 
 
 a company of natives, all armed, on watcli for Makapili 
 natives, who were expected to attack them. They took 
 our bundles and led us to a small village, where we met 
 some of our Marivaeanumu friends, who led us to their 
 village and to our old house. A young child called 
 Maka was presented for presents, the father telling 
 Maka he called the child after him, because he was his 
 friend when we were here last. We have now the open 
 country before us, and expect no trouble in getting 
 along. The natives are all unsettled at present, and 
 every man we meet is armed. I can see the country 
 better to-day than when here last week. Marivaeanumu 
 is on a rise near the hills of Eikiri and north-north- 
 west from Sogeri. The latter district is in a valley 
 between the Owen Stanley Eange and Mount Nisbet, to 
 the south-west of it. Eribagu would make a good station 
 for the Sogeri district. This place would be a suitable 
 station, being at the head of the plain that reaches 
 away to the Astrolabe on the one side and up to Yetura 
 and Uakinumu on the other, stretching east by Mount 
 Nisbet, and away east and south by the country at 
 the back of Mapakapa. The Laroki rises in the Owen 
 Stanley Eange, and is the drain for the Sogeri district 
 and all the plain ; it is very circuitous, and near here 
 very deep and slow, flowing west. 
 
 2!E A. — For nearly six hours we have been travelling 
 with our bags, and I can honestly say I feel tired. 
 We are now at a new village — the houses just going up 
 — on the top of the high green hill in front of 
 Munikahila, overlooking the Kupa Moumiri valley. 
 The village is named Keninumu, and consists of four 
 houses at present, two on high trees and two on high 
 rocks. We have pitched our tent close by, and intend 
 
QUARRELS. 
 
 I 2 1 
 
 resting until Monday, when we hope to start for the 
 plain — a very fine country, but no natives. This part of 
 the plain is dry and barren, with stunted gum-trees. A 
 party met us when near the village, and a woman with 
 a child on her shoulder, I suppose seeing me look tired, 
 insisted on my giving her my bag. I looked at the 
 child, and wondered how she was going to manage, but 
 that was soon arranged ; she made the child sit on her 
 left shoulder, holding her by the hair ; then she took 
 my bundle, and away she went. Some young men have 
 come in from one of the districts we wish to visit, and 
 I hope to keep them until we leave ; it will be a help 
 and of great value as an introduction at this time of 
 trouble. We are 1440 feet above sea-level. 
 
 A fortnight ago there was a great wallaby hunt down 
 at Moumiri, and natives from all the districts round 
 were present. A native of Munikaliila speared a man 
 from Tabori, who died soon after, so now Makipili, 
 Epakari, and Efari are said to have joined on with 
 Tabori, and unitedly mean to attack Munikaliila. 
 All the natives condemn the murder of the man, 
 because of the time and place. 
 
 31s£. — Natives all excitement, expecting Munikaliila 
 to be attacked. Every evening the men go armed to 
 Munikaliila, and the women, children, dogs, and pigs 
 to the bush. I am sorry our Keninumu friends should 
 consider it their duty to assist the murderers. The 
 natives of the district to which the murdered man 
 belonged are quietly biding their time, hunting wallaby 
 close by us. The kind woman who assisted me the 
 other day has a son by her first husband living at 
 Keninumu, and for a long time she has not seen him, 
 he being afraid to come here. She knows that Maka 
 
I 22 
 
 SKETCHES OF PAP KAN LIFE. 
 
 was returning yesterday, and felt sure her son would 
 accompany him. When some distance from here Maka 
 fired a shot, to let us know he was coming, to which we 
 responded, assuring him all was right. On hearing the 
 shot the poor woman became quite excited, came and 
 sat down by our fire, got up and got us firewood, sat 
 down again, telling Kena to get the taro cooked for 
 Maka, rose again and fetched more firewood, then 
 sat down in front of the path, looking steadily and 
 anxiously for the travellers. Poor body, they came 
 in sight, but her son was not one of them. She 
 seemed to feel it very much, rose, went to her house, 
 and was not again seen until this morning. God grant 
 the day is near when the song the heavenly host sang, 
 ‘ Glory to God in the highest, peace on earth and 
 goodwill toward men,’ shall be known and enjoyed 
 here ! 
 
 September 1st . — We left this morning at seven o’clock 
 and drew up at Makapili at four p.m., resting by the way. 
 For salt, tobacco, and beads we had help all the way. 
 What appears a fine level plain in the distance turns 
 out to be a fine country, full of ridges and luxuriant 
 valleys, abounding in every kind of native vegetable. 
 From the departure this morning until our bringing up 
 we could have ridden horses at a fine canter along the 
 ridges from one to another. This is the best country I 
 have yet seen in New Guinea, and the natives seem very 
 kind and friendly. At the Laroki we had to strip, and 
 just above small rapids, holding on by a long line 
 fastened to poles on each side, we crossed over. The 
 natives have the line to help them when the river is up. 
 We called at several villages on the ridges, passed 
 others, some on large table-rocks. Fancy a table-rock 
 
INHABITED RIDGES. 
 
 123 
 
 with twenty or thirty houses on it. At Chokinumu, a 
 village 1600 feet above the sea S.E., from Marivaeanumu 
 seven miles, we alarmed the people so that they rushed 
 away, leaving us the village. Shortly a man came back, 
 pretending to be very unconcerned, chewing betel-nut; 
 we soon were friends, and he called out to the others, 
 and they returned. We told him where we were going, 
 and he said he and his wife would accompany us, as we 
 were the first foreigners who had ever been to his 
 village, and he would not leave us. At other villages 
 they also cleared out, screaming terribly. Gimenumu, 
 1900 feet above sea-level, and two miles east from 
 Chokinumu, will make a fine mission station- — a large 
 village, fine plantations, and plenty of water. We 
 crossed several streams from the Astrolabe Eange, all 
 flowing into the Laroki. The whole drainage of the 
 Astrolabe Eange and of this country falls into the 
 Laroki. We are now in Yaiako, MakipiH district, 
 2250 feet, in a really lovely spot. 
 
 There are a great many natives in this district. 
 About four miles from here we passed a deserted village 
 on a table-rock, at one time the home of this people ; 
 but the Sogeri natives came over and killed eleven of 
 them, and the others thought it time to settle some- 
 where else. We have now a splendid view of Mount 
 Owen Stanley, due north of us, and rising far away, 
 clear and distinct above a thick mass of cloud. Mount 
 Bellamy stands alone, with a bare south-east side, and 
 Mount Nisbet just across from here, behind which is 
 Sogeri, so much dreaded by this people. On all the 
 ridges stretching away to the eastward from here behind 
 Kapakapa are natives. A woman, coming to have a 
 look at us, spied our black dog, Misi Bake, and off 
 
124 
 
 SKETCHES OF PAPUAN LIFE. 
 
 she went, climbing a tree, kit and all, quicker than 
 I ever saw a native climb before. We met a fine old 
 patriarch in a stream about two miles from here, and 
 the meeting with our friend from Chokinumu was most 
 affecting, touching chins and falling into one another’s 
 arms weeping. He sat down beside me with grave 
 dignity, and the woman from Chokinumu sat in front 
 of him, chanting and weeping. We had strawberries 
 coming along, with little or none of the flavour of 
 the home strawberry. The raspberry bush is very 
 abundant. 
 
 2nd . — Just after sunrise we had a great crowd up at 
 the tent to have a peep at us. At eight o’clock we 
 started for the summit of the Astrolabe, to have a look 
 at the sea. It is very broken on the summit, and we had 
 a good deal of ascending and descending before we got 
 over Kaili, to be disappointed in not seeing the sea, the 
 fog hanging thick under our feet. We returned by a 
 very circuitous path, passing several villages built on 
 rocks and trees. On one large table-rock was a snug 
 village, and to the east of the rock four large posts 
 beautifully carved. On feast days the food is collected 
 close to these, and a platform is fixed on the posts, on 
 which dancing takes place. We returned at three P.M. 
 The old chief soon followed us up to the camp with a 
 large present of food, and saying he hoped we would 
 soon return. I hope the same. After some delay, so 
 that it might not appear as payment for the present, 
 we gave our present to the old chief ; when he got the 
 tomahawk he wept for joy, looked at his friends, then 
 at us, pressed it to his bosom, and then kissed it. The 
 chief’s name is Kunia. 
 
 3rd . — We left Makipili this morning at eight o’clock. 
 
THE LAROKI FALLS. 
 
 125 
 
 and came along leisurely, arriving at Cliokinumu at half- 
 past ten. The chief and his 'wife who accompanied us 
 pressed us to stay a night in their village, and, seeing 
 it would displease them if we went on, we consented. 
 We had a thorough downpour of rain in the afternoon, 
 after a very hot sun, the thunder rolling all round us. 
 The chief Lohiamalaka and his wife are exceedingly 
 kind and attentive ; they have kept close by iis since 
 we left here on Monday. I am sorry for the Makipili 
 people ; they are so afraid of Sogeri that they have left 
 their houses and are living in the bush, and under the 
 shelter of rocks. Sogeri, Makipili says, will listen to 
 no conditions of peace. Several overtures have been 
 made, but all are useless. We were told at several 
 places that if we ventured to Makipili we should never 
 return ; but we have been there, were treated kindly, 
 and pressed to return. 
 
 4th . — Using our blankets yesterday as a flag for our 
 tent, they got so wet that it required a day to dry 
 them, so we decided to remain here and visit the 
 Laroki Falls. Ten days ago we found from the natives 
 that they were near here. The native name is Round. 
 We found the falls in a deep gorge formed by the west 
 end of Astrolabe and east end of Yetura Eange. On 
 each side of the gorge the mountains run sharp down, in 
 many places precipitous rocks. The falls are E. from 
 Port Moresby, E.S.E. from Moumili, and S.E. from 
 Yetura proper. They are grand, and well worth seeing. 
 I wish we had seen them from below. For a long 
 distance up there are small falls and rapids. The 
 water comes surging on, and then takes a fearful leap 
 of many hundred feet on to a ledge, and from there to 
 the boiling cauldron below'. The noise is deafening. 
 
126 
 
 SKETCHES OF PAPUAN LIFE. 
 
 Where we stood, nearly level with the water, it was 
 1340 feet above sea-level, and I do not think that from 
 there to the cauldron could be less than 900 feet. I 
 think it may be possible to get to them from the north 
 side by Mangara, and then we can rightly tell the 
 height of the falls. 
 
 5 th . — Left Chokinumu this morning at eight, and 
 had a pleasant walk for three hours, ascending 
 gradually the Astrolabe until we reached the summit 
 at the back of Tupuselei, 2300 feet high. We were 
 resting before descending, when a native party appeared 
 and approached us, somewhat scared. They said on 
 coming up they heard the noise as of chopping wood 
 (we were marking trees). They came on and saw 
 through the bush a white man, and at once went back ; 
 then, hearing as if natives were with him speaking 
 in Koiari, they returned and determined to meet us. 
 They were much pleased at receiving a present of salt. 
 We descended on the west side of the Astrolabe; the 
 descent, being steep and difficult, took us some time. 
 In the afternoon we arrived at Janara, near to Efari, at 
 the back of Pyramid Point, the Astrolabe bearing north. 
 Our friend Lohiamalaka, the chief of Geminumu 
 Monito, and three youths are with us. I have never 
 met a kinder and more friendly native than Lohiama- 
 laka. Janara is a good large district, and seems to have 
 a number of natives. The village we are in is 600 feet 
 above sea-level. Tupuselei is the nearest mission 
 station, and a teacher placed here or at Efari would 
 have constant communication with that place. I was 
 the first to enter the village. They had heard us 
 cooeying to one another ; so only saw one man, and he 
 tried to look very unconcerned, with a bamboo pipe, 
 
K A RIKA TANA. 
 
 127 
 
 trying to light it, but too excited to succeed. The 
 women had shut themselves indoors with the children, 
 and the men had gone into the bush close by with 
 their weapons. 
 
 6 th . — From Janara to Epakari there are several 
 steep ridges to go up and down, and the last ascent is 
 truly steep. It took us three good steady hours’ walk- 
 ing and climbing to get to Karikatana, the first of six 
 villages in this district. Dawes and Stone were at a 
 village, I believe, on a ridge nearer to Port Moresby. 
 The chief, Nikanivaipua, received us graciously, and 
 insisted on our taking his house. We paid off our 
 friends, and they departed well pleased. We received 
 presents of cooked food and smoked wallaby, They 
 were prepared for us, having been shouted to an hour 
 before we arrived at the village by our friend Lohiama- 
 laka. The village looks to be in a fine healthy position, 
 close to the west end of the Astrolabe, the high bluff 
 bearing 1ST.E. They have plenty of all kinds of food. 
 We crossed from the Janara a good-sized mountain 
 torrent flowing S.W. to Bootless Inlet. We are 700 
 feet high. High bluff of Astrolabe, X.E. ; Boot- 
 less Inlet, S.S.W. ; peak of Astrolabe above Kaili, 
 E.S.E. 
 
 7 tli . — Our friend Lohiamalaka turned up again last 
 evening ; he did not like leaving us. This morning he 
 really set off, promising to visit us at Port Moresby in 
 October ; that is, not this moon, nor the next, but the 
 one that follows. I asked for a little ginger to eat, and 
 they have brought it me in bundles. It is really good 
 when green, with salt. A large number of natives 
 attended our service, and were truly orderly — not a 
 whisper, and during prayer every head bent. On he 
 
128 
 
 SKETCHES OF PAPUAN LIFE. 
 
 Astrolabe, the other day, Lohiamalaka said lie felt 
 anxious for us in entering Janara. Bua, through Kena, 
 told him not to fear anything on our account, as the 
 Great Spirit was with us, and no harm could come near 
 us. Last evening he was telling the people here of his 
 fears, and what Kua said, ‘ and how true it was the 
 Great Spirit or something is with them.’ At all the 
 villages Lohiamalaka repeated all he could remember of 
 what he had been told, and of our singing and praying. 
 Every evening he would sit at the tent door and get us 
 to sing for the benefit of a crowd of natives outside, 
 who, having heard from himself of our musical powers, 
 refused to go to their homes at sunset, and insisted on 
 remaining until after noko (singing). When the 
 Koiari visit the coast they go in for begging largely, 
 and they generally get what they ask, as the Motu 
 people are very much afraid of their spiritual power, 
 they being thought to hold power over the sun, wind, 
 and rain, and manufacturing or withholding the latter at 
 will. When the Motu people hear that Koiarians are 
 coming, they hide their valuables. All the young 
 swells here have head-dresses of dogs’ teeth, got from 
 the sea-side natives. At Eikiri they told us they got 
 theirs by killing and stealing. We can truly say we 
 are under arms in this house — sixty-two spears over- 
 head, four shields on walls, and two stone cluhs keeping- 
 watch at the door. A Makipili woman has been 
 telling Kena how she happens to he here. Formerly 
 her people and these were at enmity. Makipili sought 
 peace, but had no pig. She was selected to supply 
 want of pig, and taken with food. When she grew up, 
 the old man (not her husband) insisted on her living 
 with him. 
 
POROKO AND HIS WIVES. 
 
 129 
 
 8 th . — We had six hours’ good walking, and are now 
 camped under the shade of Vetura. The country from 
 Epakari to here is very ridgy, and, after leaving the 
 ridges of Epakari, very barren. Coming suddenly on 
 a large party of men, women, and children returning 
 from a dance, they were so frightened when we called 
 out, Naimo ! that they set off, kits, spears, and drums, 
 and no fine words would bring them back. We have 
 seven natives with us ; the old chief says he must see 
 us safe to Keninumu. We passed a fine village — 
 Umiakurape — on a ridge west of Ivarikatana ; the 
 chiefs name is Yaniakoeta. It would make a splendid 
 station. The high ridge at the back of Epakari, along 
 which we came, is 1000 feet high, and from it we saw 
 Fisherman’s Island, Eedscar Bay, Bootless Inlet, and 
 the whole coast east to Bound Head. 
 
 9 tli . — Arrived at Keninumu at half-past ten a.m. 
 Found all well. The natives are constantly on the 
 look-out for the Tabori attack on Munikahila. We 
 hear the Munikahila natives have been stealing from 
 Goldie. 
 
 14 tli . — Since our return we have been house-building, 
 but are getting on very slowly. I fear we are six weeks 
 too late for the Kupele district, and shall have to leave 
 it for another season. It would be awkward to get in 
 and not get back until the end of the wet season. I find 
 our friend the chief, Poroko, has had two wives ; one he 
 killed lately. She was in the plantation, and some young 
 fellows coming along, she sat down with them to have a 
 smoke and get the news ; Poroko heard of it, and on her 
 coming home in the evening he killed her. A woman at 
 Eavelle said, ‘ Oh, the Koiari man thinks nothing of 
 killing his wife.’ The word for ‘ sneeze ’ in Koiari is akiso. 
 
 K 
 
130 SKETCHES OF PAPUAN LIFE. 
 
 When they are leaving for a journey or going for the 
 night they call out kiso, and often from their houses they 
 shout their good-night to us, kiso. There is a woman 
 in deep mourning for her daughter. She has hanging 
 round her neck all the ornaments once the property of 
 the deceased, and along with them the jawbone. The 
 headless body she visits occasionally, and rubs herself 
 all over with the juice from it ! 
 
 ISth . — We have a great crowd of natives in from 
 Ivupele, the nearest district to Mount Owen Stanley. 
 They are the same race of people as at Meroka — some 
 very dark, others very light-coloured. Their weapons are 
 the same as the Ivoiari, so also is their dress. Two men 
 are in mourning, and are wearing netted vests. The 
 chief is rather a fine-looking fellow, and dressed pro- 
 fusely with cassowary feathers. They all have a wisp 
 of grass bound tight at one end, and hanging from a 
 girdle behind, to be used as a seat when they sit down. 
 It is a stretch of imagination to say it looks like a tail. 
 They are very anxious we should accompany them on 
 their return, and say they will show us plenty of 
 villages and people. Yesterday we had great feasting 
 in the villages on yams and taro. To an Eastern 
 Polynesian it would be ridiculous to call it a feast, 
 seeing there was no pig. In the evening we had a good 
 deal of palavering with spears and shields, fighting an 
 imaginary foe, and at times retreating. Their move- 
 ments are swift and graceful : advance, retreat, advance, 
 pursue, ward off to the right, to the left, shield up, 
 down, aside, struck on knee, a shout, all gone through 
 with the greatest alacrity, and I am not at all astonished 
 at so few being killed or wounded in a fight. They 
 value shields that bear the marks of spears. 
 
RETURN OF STOLEN PROPERTY. 131 
 
 19 th . — Our old friend Oriope came in to-day, and 
 handed us the tomahawk stolen by the deserter on out- 
 last trip. He says when he heard how Someri had 
 served us he sent at once to Sogeri, and got the 
 tomahawk, telling them it was very wrong to steal 
 from such dear friends of his. One of the Kupele 
 natives stole a knife, but he had to give it up to the 
 Keninuinu friends, who returned it to us. I shoxdd 
 have liked to have started a station at Chokinumu, 
 so as to try the climate of both sides of the district this 
 wet season. 
 
 23rd . — We find it impossible to get the men to help 
 us with the house whilst so many of us are here, so we 
 return to the port, hoping to get into Chokinumu soon. 
 The people, seeing that we are really going, have begged 
 hard for Jakoba to be left, and they promise faithfully 
 to assist him in finishing the house. Jakoba being 
 anxious to remain with them, I consented. 
 
 2 Ytli . — Arrived at Moumiri about two p.m. We heard 
 there that Tabori and Makipili have been murdering. 
 A number of people from Marivaenumu were here 
 wallaby-hunting, and on returning were met ; three 
 women and two men were killed. They report here, 
 also, that Kupele proper (a small village) no longer 
 exists ; the Koiari to the west of us having gone over 
 and killed all but five, who have gone to another 
 village. 
 
 26 th . — Beturned to Port Moresby to-day, and found all 
 well, and good news from all the stations. The services 
 have gone on here in Bua’s absence with great success. 
 O 11 two Sundays the chief Poi conducted the services, 
 addressing those present, and telling them he thought 
 that now it was time for them all to receive the Gospel 
 
132 SKETCHES OF PAPUAN LIFE. 
 
 ■which had been so faithfully taught them during these 
 years ; in prayer he remembered us who were inland, 
 and asked our Father in heaven to watch over us and 
 bring us back safely, and to enlighten all of them at 
 the seaside. 
 
( 133 ) 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 THE EXPLORATION OE THE GULF OF PAPUA. 
 
 Explorations in tb e Gulf of Papua — Maiva — Coombes River — Temple 
 at Motumotu — Silo — Kerema — Vailala — Treachery Point — The 
 cannibals of Maiva — Native dress and ornaments — Native 
 trading — The gods of Port Moresby — Native ideas of a future 
 life — Directions to seamen. 
 
 On the 22nd of November, 1879, accompanied by 
 Mr. Beswick and Piri, native teacher of Boera, with 
 two Port Moresby natives to act as pilots, and three 
 natives from the Gulf of Papua, who had been at Port 
 Moresby for some months, and were now returning to 
 their home, we left Boera, to make a long-talked-of visit 
 to the Gulf of Papua. In 1875, Mr. McFarlane visited 
 some part of the Gulf on this side, but how much 
 I do not know. In 1878, Mr. Ingham, who was 
 murdered by the natives of Brooker Island, came 
 along the whole coast in his small steamer from the 
 Ely River ; but I fear the information obtained on that 
 voyage has all been lost. Mr. Goldie ran along the 
 coast from Yule Island to Freshwater Bay just before 
 our visit; but I believe only landed at Maiva. Our 
 trips extended to Bald Head of Deception Bay, the 
 utmost known to the Port Moresby natives. We have 
 made two visits — one on our way to Thursday Island, 
 and another on our return. For brevity, I condense 
 
1 34 EX PL ORA TION OF THE GULF OF PAPUA. 
 
 both into one chapter. At Yule Island (native name 
 Lavao) we were met in a friendly manner by the 
 people. 
 
 Starting early on the morning of November 25th 
 from Yule, we arrived about two hours after (10 miles). 
 
 A NEW GUINEA VILLAGE. 
 
 off a large district, very thickly populated, called Maiva, 
 comprehending eleven villages, five on the coast, and 
 six about half a mile inland. Between the sea and 
 the low hill at the back is about a mile of 
 good country, where all kinds of native food can be 
 
A MAIVA VILLAGE. 
 
 135 
 
 grown. The inland villages are.. I fear, unhealthy, 
 being close by a swamp ; but those on the coast are 
 as fine-looking as any we know, and may be tolerably 
 free from fever, being built on the same kind of sand 
 as those in the Aroma and Kerepunu districts. The 
 natives ere a fine, strong, healthy race, resembling much 
 the Hool Bay and Aroma natives, and there are crowds 
 of children. They have good large houses, kept 
 wonderfully clean, with sleeping benches in all of 
 them. In front of many of the houses are nicely 
 kept fbwer gardens. The largest houses are built to 
 represent an alligator with open mouth ; the platform 
 in frent of the house is the lower jaw, and the long 
 shade over the platform the upper, so that standing 
 on tie platform you stand in the alligator’s mouth, 
 the house sloping to appear as a body. One house, 
 i> be used as a temple in one of the inland villages, 
 vas about 150 feet long, very high, with carved posts, 
 md in front overhead a beautifully decorated shade, 
 with long pendants of different kinds of leaves. The 
 back country is very hilly, but fertile. On the sides 
 of the hills are many well-kept plantations. With the 
 exception of the country at the back of the Astrolabe 
 Bange, there is no other that I have yet seen in New 
 Guinea to compare with it. On the chart the villages 
 are marked about two miles too far west. There are 
 now no villages in the bight close to Cape Possession. 
 
 Beyond Cape Possession, and near to Wedge Hill, 
 are three villages, comprising the district of Oiapu ; we 
 visited two of them. They were small, and the houses 
 in a very dilapidated state ; yet men, women, and 
 children swarmed about, very friendly, and similar to 
 those at Maiva. We caused great excitement, being 
 
136 EXPLORA TION OF THE GULF OF PAPUA. 
 
 the first foreigners to land amongst them. They 
 shouted and clapped their hands with delight, and 
 were greatly disappointed at our leaving so soon. 
 Before leaving we were led up to the temple, and a 
 mat spread out, were told to he seated, where we gave 
 our presents, and told the people the object of our visit. 
 We do not consider a people visited unless ve have 
 landed unarmed, and remained some time anon^st 
 them. The most easterly of the three village bears 
 a bad name, the inhabitants being looked noon as 
 petty pirates, who rob the trading canoes on their 
 return from the west. 
 
 A few miles further on is Jokea, a very pretty ullage 
 on the point between North-West Hill and One Tree 
 Hill. There are beautifully kept plantations runaing 
 back to the hills. The natives received us in a xery 
 friendly manner. We did not see arms anywhere. 
 The village is kept fine and clean ; and if we dart 
 now give an opinion as to healthiness or unhealthiness; 
 I should say the former. Fifty yards off shore we were 
 in five fathoms ; but, on going east round the point 
 towards the cape, vessels should keep well out, because 
 of reefs and sandbanks. 
 
 Three miles further west we discovered a large river, 
 and named it the Coombes. At low water, 150 yards 
 off entrance, there are four-and-a-half fathoms, gradually 
 shallowing, until on bar only one fathom is got. There 
 is a large basin inside, with two-and-a-half and three 
 fathoms. Bunning south is a broad creek with a small 
 island in centre. Keeping the creek on the right, we 
 pulled up the river for about a mile in an east by 
 south direction, and got from two-and-a-half to three 
 fathoms well towards the left bank. It is about 
 
THE PEOPLE OF LESE. 
 
 137 
 
 seventy-five yards across, with great swamps on both 
 sides. The water is fresh on the bar. About a quarter 
 of a mile up from the basin a smaller river falls into 
 it, coming from the west and north. From the natives 
 we learn the Coombes comes from the Yule Eange, 
 passing by several very large villages, where sago in 
 great abundance is made. The inland villages are 
 named Hinavi, Mekeo, and Poro. The inhabitants are 
 very light-coloured, a few dark ones like the Port 
 Moresby natives. 
 
 Continuing our course westerly, we came to the large 
 village of Lese, where the people were prepared to 
 receive us, being dressed in their very finest, the ladies 
 besmeared with red ochre mixed with oil. This place 
 is noted for mosquitoes and alligators. At the back of 
 the village is a very pretty lagoon we named Macey 
 Lagoon, the opening into which is at Cliff Head, 
 extending from there to beyond the village, and ending 
 in two large creeks with mangrove banks. If we can 
 get a passage-in deep and wide enough, we shall have 
 one good harbour west of Yule, safe in all weather. 
 The mat was brought out in front of the chief’s house, 
 and we were invited to a seat. The crowd was great, 
 and very noisy ; our presents were received with the 
 greatest grace, and in return we were presented with 
 the sacred betel-nut, a few cocoanuts, and a few bundles 
 of sago, and had a very pressing invitation to dine on 
 sago and wallaby ; but the sun hurrying on to its 
 bathing, we thought it best to decline. 
 
 Between Cliff Head and Motumotu is a large river 
 called Maratu, deep and broad ; inland some distance 
 are three small villages, the same kind of natives as at 
 Port Moresby, and sago and all kinds of food very 
 
1 38 EXPL ORA TION OF THE G ULF OF PAPUA. 
 
 abundant. Keeping west four miles, we landed at 
 Motumotu, a very fine large village near Freshwater 
 Bay. At first it appeared as if the crowd that met us 
 on the beach meant to walk off with us, boat and all. 
 Getting ashore, and the boat going off to deep water, we 
 were led through the village, or collection of villages, 
 and at last up and on to the platform of a large temple 
 sacred to Semese. No woman has ever entered that 
 temple or stood on that platform. Hanging high up 
 overhead, at the entrance, is a representation of a 
 mermaid, half fish and half human. It looked old, 
 certainly not as if made in recent years. We asked 
 them what it represented, and were told they appeared 
 sometimes in the sea opposite. Inside the temple were 
 sleeping benches running down both sides, and at each 
 post an idol — the figure, of a man, representing Semese. 
 Turtle nets were kept inside ; sticks, with bunches of 
 empty nuts attached, used in dancing, and drums, were 
 hanging about. There are no windows, and only one 
 door, opening in from the platform. We gave presents 
 to the chief, and placed others on the platform, for the 
 temple. The chief brought two of Semese’s priests, and 
 asked us to give them presents. These people inter- 
 marry with the Port Moresby natives. We met a 
 number of people from Boliapata, Pari, and Vapukori of 
 this district. Piri is well known here by report, as he 
 is all along the coast, and all were delighted to meet 
 him. A large river, which flows close by the village, 
 named by Mr. Goldie the Williams, is a branch from a 
 very large river inland, called Arubada. About thirty 
 miles up the Arubada breaks off into two branches, one 
 flowing into Freshwater Bay, and the Williams forming 
 the other. 
 
FRESHWA TER BA Y. 
 
 139 
 
 Leaving Motumotu, and rounding the point, we saw 
 the Alice Meade at anchor in Freshwater Bay. Mr. 
 Goldie came on board, and told us of a lagoon he had 
 discovered and named Alice Meade Lagoon. On our 
 return voyage our captain examined it, and reports 
 small vessels able to enter, and once in, safe in south- 
 east season ; but the difficulty will be in getting in, as, 
 according to native report, the sea breaks heavily a very 
 long way off. There are no villages in Freshwater Bay, 
 only a few houses — lean-overs, used by natives when 
 on fishing expeditions. 
 
 Falling into the west side of Freshwater Bay is the 
 large river called Kaurepinu, and said by the natives to 
 be another branch of Arubada. The Arubada rises 
 a long way off in the back range, which may be a 
 continuation of the Owen Stanley Bunge. 
 
 The Port Moresby natives go up the river for three 
 days, when they arrived at a milage called Moveave, at 
 the base of a mountain we saw on our return voyage. We 
 named the mountain Mount Chapman. It is north-east 
 from the small islands in the bay forty miles, and about 
 8000 feet high; round bluff on west side, and three 
 finger-points on east with saddle, and then a round 
 peak. Inland and coast tribes are constantly at war. 
 The Port Moresby natives go up to Moveave for sago 
 and food of various kinds. They say it is impossible 
 for them to describe the quantities of food grown there. 
 The people are black, with woolly hair, and are not 
 cannibals. They have very large temples. 
 
 Along the coast, five miles from the Kaurepinu, is a 
 district named Karama, with three villages. Our 
 natives gave the inhabitants a very bad name ; and, on 
 our nearing the large canoes that came off to meet us, 
 
1 40 EXPL ORA TION OF THE GULF OF PAPUA. 
 
 they went below and got into the sailors’ bunks, begging 
 the mate to shut up the forward batch. On our seeing 
 all the canoes armed with clubs and hows and arrows, 
 and all the hows ready as for action, and natives 
 standing up with guards on their arms, we thought 
 it best to have little to do with them, and, after 
 giving a few presents, we steamed along to FTamai 
 and Silo. 
 
 To the latter place our Gulf natives belonged, and we 
 landed with them. We were received as real friends, 
 and the natives we returned to their homes made us 
 out to be great chiefs of peace, great, ‘ like the sun in 
 its meridian splendour, and the moon at the full when 
 it travels in the zenith.’ We were led to the temple, 
 then through the village, so that all might have a good 
 look at the great personages who brought their friends 
 home ‘ in a ship that can go without wind, and straight 
 ahead, though blowing a strong head breeze.’ On our 
 first visit we secured the hat of the goddess Kaevakuku, 
 and on our second tried to purchase two idols, Semese 
 and Tauparau ; but the people would not hear of parting 
 with them. The district of Silo comprises several 
 villages ; in one of them, when being led to the temple, 
 the women and all those not allowed near the sacred 
 place insisted on our squatting on a mat some distance 
 off, that they might have a good look at us. On our 
 return visit we received large presents of sago, and the 
 people helped in wooding the vessel. 
 
 At some distance from the coast is a fine range of 
 hills extending from Freshwater Bay to behind Pier 
 Point, and named by us the Ingham Hills. Between 
 the sand ridge on the coast on which the villages are 
 built and the base of the hills is a large swamp covered 
 
VAILALA. 
 
 141 
 
 with sago palms. The houses are small, and built low, 
 not raised on piles, as further east. 
 
 Passing round the Cupola to Pier Point, we were met 
 by several canoes full of natives, who came along shout- 
 ing for Piri. They were from a village called Pesi, in 
 the small bay into which the river Yaibada flows. Up 
 this river some distance is Opao, a district of several 
 villages, where sago and all kinds of native food are to 
 be found. The people are not cannibals, and are the 
 same as at Port Moresby. 
 
 Next to Pesi is the Kerema district, of three villages, 
 all friendly ; but we could not find sufficient depth of 
 water to get near enough to land. Our pilots from 
 Port Moresby told us the country was very swampy at 
 the back. Next to Kerema is the district of Iveuru, 
 with three small villages, inland some distance. There 
 are no rivers in this district, the openings, as on chart, 
 are only salt-water creeks in mangrove swamp. The 
 inhabitants are said to be bad, and treacherous, and we 
 were strongly advised to have nothing whatever to do 
 with them ; but, on our return voyage, being short of 
 wood, we anchored off some distance for the night, 
 intending to go ashore in the morning and get two boat- 
 loads. About half-past two in the morning the shells 
 were blowing, and lights were seen all along the coast, 
 that we thought it better to heave up anchor, run on 
 to our friends at Silo, and there get wood. Pound 
 Maclatchie Point, on the west side, is Vailala, a good- 
 sized village or collection of villages, with some very 
 large temples. The people were very excited, and 
 numbers followed us about carrying arms. When 
 coming out of one of the temples the old Port 
 Moresby chief came close up to me and said, ‘ Tamate, 
 
142 EXPLORA TION OF THE GULF OF PAPUA. 
 
 there is no chief here, only useless fellows about ; I 
 think we should get off to the vessel.’ Understanding 
 what he meant — that the useless fellows without 
 authority might cause trouble — we got away to the 
 vessel. 
 
 Vailala is built on a neck of land, with a large river 
 running into the sea on the west side, and the sea on 
 the east. The river we named the Annie. In two 
 districts, called Heran and Keuru, up this river, are 
 many large villages. The population is very great. 
 The natives are spoken of as being very big men and 
 women, and as light-coloured as our Eastern Polynesian 
 teachers ; they are not cannibals. The country at the 
 hack is very swampy. The sago and all kinds of native 
 food are as abundant as in other inland districts. There 
 are a very few low hills near the coast. Elephantiasis 
 seemed very prevalent amongst the natives of Vailala. 
 
 On the west side of the river, and four miles along the 
 coast, is Woody Hill. The point stretching out to sea 
 is known by the natives as Aumana, and beyond in the 
 bay is the large district of Orokolo, comprising six 
 villages, viz., Namea, Haremamu, Kaeva, Kamu, Marea, 
 Huku, and Kavara. The bay we named Orokolo Bay ; 
 it extends from Aumana Point eleven miles to Treachery 
 Point. Our Port Moresby natives advised us strongly 
 to have nothing to do with the people, but pass on. 
 On entering the bay, and getting close up to the villages, 
 we were soon surrounded by a number of well-manned 
 and well-armed large double canoes. Things not look- 
 ing particularly pleasant, bows being handled, and men 
 taking stations on the platforms that join the canoes, 
 we thought it well to give a few presents and get away. 
 ‘ Pull speed ahead,’ and away we went with two double 
 
TROUBLESOME VISITORS. 
 
 143 
 
 canoes keeping well np for a considerable distance. On 
 our return we again visited the bay, and a few small 
 unarmed canoes coming alongside, we allowed the 
 natives on board, and were fraternising all right with 
 them until we observed two large double canoes ; one 
 working up to port, and the other to starboard, and our 
 natives noticed signs being given that led them to tell 
 us ‘ to look out, get rid of these lying fellows.’ We 
 told them to get over the side, as we were going to 
 leave ; but they lingered on until some time after we 
 were under weigh. It seems they are at deadly feud 
 with all natives in the Port Moresby district, because 
 of one of their chiefs, who left in a Boera canoe, and on 
 their way east calling at Maiva, being murdered. The 
 Orokolo natives believe the Boerans did it, and they 
 vow vengeance and no peace until many heads are 
 brought in as compensation. 
 
 Passing the villages, we steamed through discoloured 
 water coming from a very large river that breaks up 
 inland, and reaches the sea through several large 
 channels or mouths, falling partly into the bay and 
 partly to the west of it. The first mouth is named 
 the Alele, and up it a short distance is the district 
 of Jare, consisting of three large villages. The popu- 
 lation is comprised of black and light-coloured natives, 
 all cannibals. On the east bank is the district of Muro. 
 Sago and native food so abundant as to beat all 
 description. 
 
 The west bank of the Alele extends to a point named 
 by us Treachery Point, because of an attempt to 
 surprise and secure our wooding party a few miles 
 from there. After passing Orokolo there are no more 
 coast villages as far as we went; but inland parties 
 
144 EXPLORATION OF THE GULF OF PAPUA. 
 
 come down the river or channels and remain on the 
 coast for some time fishing. Our boat went ashore in 
 charge of the mate with five men to cut wood. When 
 cutting, a native came down through the swamp, and 
 appeared friendly, trying to get them to go inland and 
 have cocoanuts ; but, on no one going, he disappeared. 
 Soon a few unarmed natives were seen coming along 
 the beach, and on looking into the thick of the bush, 
 an armed party of about fifty was seen. The mate 
 shouted to our men to hurry into the boat ; they got 
 in, when the unarmed natives rushed into the water to 
 seize the boat, and those in the bush were ready with 
 arrows on their strung hows ; hut the boat was got 
 away, and soon pulled beyond reach. Passing along 
 from Treachery Point to Bald Head, you will notice 
 on the chart East Entrance and West Entrance Islands : 
 these have gone, it may he have become part of the 
 mainland, or been washed away by the force of water 
 from the various mouths. Between Treachery Point 
 and Bald Head are four mouths — the natives say long 
 branches of the inland river coming from far hack in 
 the country. The following information we obtained 
 from the natives. 
 
 The first is named Aivei. This inland a short 
 distance is one with Alele. The greatest body of 
 water comes out of this mouth. A short way up is 
 a large village called Maipua. The natives are black, 
 with woolly hair, and all cannibals eating human flesh, 
 cooked or uncooked, and pronounce it better food than 
 anything known. 
 
 The second is named Panaroa. It comes a long way 
 from the main stream. At the mouth there are great 
 quantities of cocoanuts, sugar-cane, and taro. There 
 
> made of the leg bone of 
 
 O 
 
 L 
 

A CANNIBAL DISTRICT. 
 
 147 
 
 are no villages along it, and it is therefore not ascended 
 by the Port Moresby natives. 
 
 The third, Urita, is large, deep, and broad, and far 
 away inland leaves the main stream. Two days’ good hard 
 pulling up it brings the traveller to the district of Kailu, 
 where the natives are perfectly black, with woolly hair, 
 and are all cannibals. Sago and all kinds of native 
 food are very abundant. To the west of Kailu is 
 another thickly populated district called Kerepenairu. 
 From Kailu the mountains are seven days’ good pulling. 
 In all the districts the natives are continually fighting 
 with one another. 
 
 The fourth, Arai, large, broad, and deep. Two days’ 
 hard palling brings to Ukerave, a large district with 
 black natives, and all cannibals. As in the other 
 districts, sago and all kinds of native food are 
 abundant. The natives are very friendly with the 
 Port Moresby natives. Fresh water can he obtained on 
 all the bars. 
 
 At the Bald Head, on the east side, is the mouth of 
 a very large river, called Maivau. They say it is a 
 distinct river, and comes through a very great extent 
 of country. On passing off the mouth our old chief 
 announced to us that we had now reached the end of 
 Elema, the furthest point of their coast knowledge. He 
 and his people go up this river to villages far inland 
 for sago. They leave Port Moresby in the month of 
 September, during the strength of the south-east 
 monsoon, in their large trading canoes, and after 
 several days and nights at sea enter the mouth of 
 this river, and for seven days work their way up to 
 their friends. All the way up the river is deep and 
 wide. The people are black, with woolly hair, beards, 
 
 L 2 
 
148 EXP LORA TION OF THE GULF OF PAPUA. 
 
 and moustache ; are very friendly, but terrible 
 cannibals, laughing at their Port Moresby friends for 
 not eating such delicate food as human flesh. They 
 have good houses and very large temples, believing 
 greatly in the power of Kaevakuku, Semese, and 
 Tauparau. The Port Moresby natives, during the 
 remainder of the south-east monsoon, remain cutting 
 wood and making large canoes, which they lash 
 alongside their old ones. Sometimes they will have 
 as many as fifteen lashed together, forming a very 
 large and peculiar-looking raft. When the north-west 
 monsoon sets in they take on board their cargo of sago, 
 visit the temple of Kaevakuku and leave offerings, bid 
 their friends farewell, and come down to the coast, 
 where they take in supplies of taro, cocoanuts, and 
 sugar-cane, and with the strong north-westers return 
 to Port Moresby. We tried to get into Deception 
 Bay, but, finding no passage deep enough, we stood 
 out until well off and in deep water, where we 
 anchored for the night. In the evening we saw 
 indistinctly rising away above the clouds, far inland, 
 a long range of mountains ; and further west, towards 
 the Aird, three peaks. On our return voyage we made 
 Bald Head early in a fine clear morning, and then we 
 saw our new range very distinctly. We named it the 
 Sir Arthur Gordon Range. It is from forty to fifty 
 miles inland of the low land stretching from Maclatchie 
 Point to Bald Head. The high bluff on the western 
 end we named Mount Chester. 
 
 To the west of the range, and between that and Aird 
 Hill, we discovered the three peaks of our down-trip to 
 be three mountains, and have named them as follows : — 
 Mount Gill, N. W. by N. £ N. from Bald Head ; Mount 
 
DRESS OF THE GULF NATIVES. 
 
 149 
 
 Alexander, N.JST.W. from Bald Head ; Mount Charlton, 
 the largest of the three, N.W. from Bald Head. To us 
 they appeared as standing alone, and not connected by 
 intervening ridges. 
 
 After leaving Maiva, the married men and women 
 have very little dress ; the young men and girls have a 
 little more than their parents. Shells are much used 
 in making head-dresses ; the small ones are cut, bored, 
 and strung together, and fastened round the hair. The 
 large ones are cut and rounded, and, with tastefully cut 
 tortoiseshell, placed in the concave, are worn, the 
 larger ones on the forehead and the smaller ones 011 the 
 temples. They have shell necklaces, and wonderfully 
 wrought earrings made from tortoiseshell. Their nose- 
 jewels, also made from shell, are very large, some 
 three-quarters of an inch in diameter. On their arms 
 they wear large shell armlets, and round their waists 
 broad fancy-cut bark belts ; some of the younger swells 
 wearing tight bands of native cloth, nicely coloured, 
 made from the bark of the native mulberry, and if 
 compared with the tight-lacing of civilization, they 
 would undoubtedly carry off the palm. They paint 
 the face in stripes of black, white, red, and yellow. 
 When in mourning, they paint themselves all over black, 
 and wear finely wrought net collars. When in very 
 deep mourning they envelope themselves with a very 
 tight kind of wicker-work dress, extending from the 
 neck to the knees in such a way that they are not able 
 to walk well. All along the Gulf coast and inland they 
 have an abundance of food. Ho where east of Yule 
 
 Island is it possible to find cocoanut groves to compare 
 with those from Maiva, westward, and everywhere the 
 sago palm is abundant. Yams and sugar-cane are also 
 
150 EXPLORA TION OF THE GULF OF PAPUA. 
 
 grown in great quantities, and wherever you go the 
 bread-fruit tree is to be seen with large plantations of 
 bananas. 
 
 The Gulf natives come east to the Port Moresby 
 district during the north-west monsoon, with cargoes of 
 sago, and return laden with earthenware, armlets, shell 
 head-dresses and necklaces, tomahawks, knives, beads, 
 and red cloth ; and in September or later the Port 
 Moresby natives pay them a return trading visit, 
 conveying fresh supplies of earthenware, &c., in 
 exchange for which they get sago, native food, and 
 
 NEW GUINEA POTTERY. 
 
 canoes, returning home at the beginning of the north- 
 west monsoon. A very large trade will yet be carried 
 on by foreigners in the Gulf in sago and copra. 
 
 In all the villages west of Maiva we saw large sand 
 mounds over the graves of the dead, and on the top or 
 close by these mounds are small houses, where near 
 relatives sleep to watch by their deceased friends. 
 
 The dialect is different from that of the Port Moresby 
 natives, but they so constantly visit one another that 
 there is no difficulty in travelling. 
 
 After passing Motumotu the natives are much darker, 
 a few amongst them light-coloured. As in Polynesia, 
 
NATIVE VIEWS ON ORIGIN OF MAN. 15 1 
 
 they rub noses when meeting, and to us it was not at 
 all pleasant when an affectionate chief met us, his 
 face got up for the occasion, the paint still wet, or 
 perhaps in mourning, and that only recently put on, 
 and insisted on rubbing noses. 
 
 The people of Port Moresby speak of themselves as 
 one with the Gulf natives, being of one origin. Two 
 men sprung out of the earth, Kerimaikuku and 
 Iverimaikape, but no woman ; their only companion 
 was a female dog. Anxious for children, a daughter 
 and a son were born to them. When these were 
 grown up they married, and children being born, 
 the inhabitants soon numbered fourteen. They then 
 separated, two going right back to the mountains, 
 and from them sprung the great Ivoiari tribe ; two 
 going not so far inland, and dwelling on the low lands, 
 and frcm them sprang the Koitapuans, a tribe of 
 sorcerers ; the remainder all going to Elema, where they 
 remained many generations. A quarrel occurring 
 between two brothers, the younger with a large party 
 set out for the eastward, and on arriving at Taurama 
 (Pinnacle Point) decided on settling there. On leaving, 
 the goddess Ivaevakuku said, ‘ Go, and in dance, in 
 feasting, at planting, and growing times, remember me, 
 and I shall behold you.’ Semese and Tauparau said 
 the same. On a feast-day certain parties dress up with 
 different kinds of leaves from the bush, and with 
 ornamenting sticks come into the village representing 
 Kaevakuku. 
 
 The gods live in Elema, and dances and feasts are 
 held in their honour, when hymns or chants are intoned 
 or sung. Their priests are sacred, and their temples ; 
 no female or youth is allowed near. When one is sick, 
 
152 EXPLORA TION OF THE GULF OF PAPUA. 
 
 food is presented to the idol, and prayers are offered 
 that the sick one may be saved. When the Port 
 Moresby canoes arrive at their destination in Elema, 
 the chief or chiefs on board repair at once to the temple 
 with offerings of large armlets, earthenware, &c. ; and 
 when ready to start on their return voyage, another 
 visit is paid, offerings made, and requests for favourable 
 breezes, and a safe and speedy return home. The gods 
 are much offended if their sacred men are slighted. 
 The centre post in every house is sacred to Kaevakuku, 
 and her portion of food in every feast is first offered 
 there. The first-fruits belong to her. All planting is 
 useless unless blessed by the gods. The sun belongs to 
 Kaevakuku. Eain, lightning, and thunder, to Seinese 
 and Tauparau. When we were at Vailala, Semese’s 
 temple was closed, and he kept a prisoner inside until 
 a great dance and feast they were soon to have were 
 finished, when he would be set at liberty, to go out to 
 the mountains and do as he pleased in thunder, lightning, 
 and rain. 
 
 At Port M oresby and other parts along the coast they 
 have many charms used in planting, fishing, &c. These 
 are obtained from Vailala, and have been blessed by 
 the gods. Kaevakuku is represented by a large frame of 
 wicker-work ; her hat is large, and is something like a 
 penguin in shape, and when she is consulted in difficult 
 affairs she gives her answers by shaking her head or 
 remaining still. A party wishing to fight would at 
 once go to the temple with an offering and inquire as 
 to whether they should fight or not, and if she would 
 assist them. Were she agreeable, her head would 
 shake ; if otherwise, she remained still. Semese and 
 Tauparau are made from blocks of wood, and stand 
 
DIRECTIONS TO SEAMEN. 
 
 153 
 
 outside of some temples, and against all the posts 
 running down the centre. At Port Moresby the 
 natives say that the spirit as soon as it leaves the 
 body proceeds to Elema, where they for ever dwell in 
 the midst of food and betel-nuts, and spend their days 
 and nights in endless enjoyment — eating, chewing 
 betel-nuts, and dancing. Most worthless fellows are 
 sent back to Poava and Idia, small islands near Boera, 
 there to remain until the goddess sees fit to send for 
 them. 
 
 I may add here the following directions to seamen by 
 the captain of the Ellengowan, about the coast from 
 Bramble Bay to Cape Possession. 
 
 ‘ The best place to make the land is to the westward 
 of Maclatchie Point, where the first villages on the 
 coast are situated. When within a distance of twenty- 
 five or thirty miles of the land in clear weather, the 
 high mountain range named Sir Arthur Gordon Eange 
 will be seen, with the three mounts to the westward. 
 These are unmistakable, appearing as three islands ; the 
 two eastern ones are very rugged ; the centre one bears 
 from Bald Head about N.H.W. 35'. On nearing the 
 land it is easily known if to the east or west of 
 Maclatchie Point, as to the westward of Flat Top and 
 Woody Hill there is no high land near the coast, 
 nothing but low, fiat country. East and West Entrance 
 Islands could not be made out sailing on the four- 
 fathom edge of soundings. If wishing to go close to 
 the land, the lead is a sure guide ; the water shoals very 
 gradually to the beach ; nowhere between Bald Head 
 and Cliff Point did the water shoal more than a fathom 
 in a mile, except off the river-moutlis ; it is necessary to 
 pass these at a distance of three miles. Alice Meade 
 
154 EXPLORA TION OF THE GULF OF PAPUA. 
 
 Harbour, reported by Mr. Goldie, can only be used by 
 very small vessels drawing no more than four feet, and 
 it should not be attempted in bad weather, as the 
 approach to it for some distance has a depth of only 
 two-and-a-half and three-fifths, which will break, 
 heavily. Between Cliff Point and Jokea village (North- 
 West Hill) a depth of five and six fathoms was found 
 close to the shore ; here the water shoals more rapidly ; 
 off Coombes Biver there is a depth of four fathoms to 
 within two hundred yards of the bar, on which there is 
 six feet. After passing Jokea village it is necessary to 
 keep a distance of tw T o miles from the shore, to avoid 
 very shallow water till nearing Cape Possession. The 
 soundings on the other part of the coast are correctly 
 laid down.’ 
 
( 
 
 ‘ OJ 
 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 THE KABADI DISTRICT. 
 
 Manumanu —Wish for teachers — The Skittle Rocks — The Aroa 
 River — Native villages — Kind reception — Native customs — 
 Natural products — The Enona and Varemenana Rivers — Un- 
 healthy region — Hammocks — Native Legends about the Origin 
 of Man and the Flood. 
 
 On Saturday, the 31st of July, 1880, we left Tort 
 Moresby for Boera, intending to start in the morning 
 for Eedscar Bay. When seated in the boat, and about 
 to crossAhe reef outside Boera, intelligence arrived of 
 an attack that had been made on a Chinese junk at 
 Aroma, resulting in the murder of seven Chinamen. 
 We at once resolved to change our plans, in order that 
 we might proceed to the scene of the outrage, and visit 
 the teachers located in the neighbourhood, whom we 
 were greatly relieved to find safe and well. Retracing 
 our course, we reached Boera on the 10th of August, 
 and on the following morning commenced the Redscar 
 Bay trip. We spent the night at Manumanu in the 
 midst of mosquitoes and noisome smells. There are 
 about three hundred inhabitants at Manumanu, all 
 belonging to the Motu tribe, and, although the place 
 is at the mouths of two large rivers and surrounded by 
 extensive mangrove swamps, the people look strong and 
 healthy, altogether superior to their neighbours at 
 Boera and Port Moresby. The children are numerous. 
 
THE KABADI DISTRICT. 
 
 156 
 
 and blither, noisier children need not be wished. About 
 forty years ago a great disturbance took place at 
 Hanuabada (Port Moresby), and a large number 
 migrated, some settling at Boliapata, and the others 
 here. The houses are high and strong, and, being so near 
 to timber, vastly superior to any of their neighbours. 
 The women are great makers of earthenware. 
 
 Ours was the first visit that had been paid to this 
 place since the teachers left it in 1873. The old chief, 
 Kaimi, wanted to know what he had done that he had 
 been so left out in the cold. Was he not the first to 
 receive teachers ? Was it not through him that the 
 teachers became so well known all along the coast ? 
 Had he killed any one of them ? Shortly after they 
 landed, and when some, fearing sickness, wished to kill 
 them, did he not interfere to save them ? I replied, 
 ‘ All this is true ; but your place is surrounded with 
 swamp, so that foreigners cannot live here, and during the 
 short time they were here a number died.’ He replied, 
 ‘ Listen, Tamate ; that was a year of great sickness ; we 
 were all sick, young and old ; the foreigners came, and 
 they too became sick ; some died ; but have they not 
 died in other places too ? This is not so bad a place as 
 you think.’ The old chief accompanied us to Kabadi, 
 and during the days he spent with us this was his one 
 complaint. He would often say : ‘ I am left uncovered, 
 I who opened the door ; others are happy.’ 
 
 This opening is not laid down correctly in the chart. 
 Galley Beach is a salt-water creek ; to the east of it is 
 a large opening, the mouth of the Veoru (Brown), 
 rising in the Kapele district and flowing close in by 
 the base of Mount Owen Stanley, along past the 
 range through a very swampy country with very few 
 
THE SKITTLE ROCKS. 
 
 157 
 
 inhabitants. To the east of that is the mouth of the 
 Vanapa (Laroki), rising in the Eikiri and Sogeri dis- 
 tricts. A little distance inland both rivers meet, and 
 then break out into two openings. On the western 
 side of the mouth is Morabi, a fine planting country, 
 used by the Manumanu natives as such. 
 
 The following morning we left Manumanu, and 
 sailed out by the Kekeni or Skittle Eocks, which, 
 according to heathen tradition, came from far inland 
 down the river. They halted at the mouth, and would 
 go no further, although often implored and hard pressed 
 by imprisoned fish, who were anxious to get to sea. At 
 last a number of big fish determined to open a passage, 
 and began eating at the foundation, but, before they got 
 through, a great flood came down and swept the Ivekini 
 away, carrying them out to where they now are. 
 
 Keeping the largest of the Skittle Eocks right astern, 
 with west point of opening right ahead, we found a 
 fine passage into the river. Toutu is the name of the 
 other opening, and not the opening at Manumanu ; so 
 that Mr. Gill is correct. The river is large and fresh a 
 long way out, and swarms with alligators. It is called 
 Aroa. 
 
 About ten miles from the mouth, the Akevailui falls 
 into the Aroa. Above the junction, the Aroa shallows 
 very much, but we had no difficulty in getting along. 
 Hear the mouth are extensive mangrove and sago-palm 
 swamps ; but a few miles up we passed, on both sides, 
 some very fine country, and above the junction came to 
 beautifully kept plantations on both banks, continuing so 
 until we arrived at the villages. The district is known 
 as Kabadi, and comprises twelve villages, with fine flat 
 country about. 
 
158 
 
 THE KABADI DISTRICT. 
 
 We camped at Ukaukana with an old chief named 
 Haimieru ; but the largest village is Keveo, where the 
 chief, Naimiarua, resides. This is the head chief of the 
 district; he has power over all the villages. He is a 
 fine, kind-hearted, fatherly fellow. He has a fine large 
 council house, strongly built, and beautifully finished. 
 The villages are swept every morning, and all the 
 houses are kept in good order. From the large number 
 of cocoanut and betel-nut trees about, the villages are 
 cool and pleasant in the hottest day. The houses of 
 the principal people have large covered verandahs in 
 front, different from anything I have hitherto seen. I 
 have visited a good many districts in this great island, 
 but nowhere have I experienced so much kindness from 
 natives as here. 
 
 On going up the river, the people crowded out to see 
 the first boat and foreigners they had ever looked upon, 
 and on our landing Haimieru met us. He is about 
 fifty-five years of age, a fine intelligent-looking man, 
 with an expression indicating that it would be better to 
 have him as a friend than an enemy ; as the latter he 
 could be disagreeable ; to us he was the former, and he 
 treated us in a right friendly manner. He gave us his 
 council house to camp in, and permitted our cooking 
 arrangements to be carried on close by his own, 
 superintended by his wife, who, as we can testify, can 
 make savoury dishes, and one in particular, a pudding 
 fit for any table. She is a clean, tidy body, with a 
 terrible temper. 
 
 The people brought us cooked food daily, and, 
 although our party was large, we could not consume it 
 all. We were entertained in the council house at a 
 sumptuous repast, all sitting round the house in groups 
 
DRESS OF KABADI NA FIVES. 
 
 *59 
 
 of six or eight, with dishes in the centre of each 
 group, from which all partook. After dinner betel- 
 nuts were handed round with peppers and lime cala- 
 bashes, and then all chewed and talked. My travelling 
 hag astonished them much, and its contents were 
 examined with great interest, they never having seen 
 pins, needles, thread, scissors, &c., before ; hut the most 
 astonishing thing was the small case, explained by a 
 Tort Moresby native to those around as containing 
 things that told roads, heights, and weather. I opened 
 it and showed them my barometer, thermometer, and 
 compass, and tried to explain to them their uses. ‘ Shut 
 it, shut it ; put it away, now put it away ; we shall be 
 all sick ! ’ I put it away, assuring them it would cause 
 no sickness. 
 
 Visitors from the Naara district, who had been 
 attracted by the presence of white men, were also 
 hospitably entertained. I was compelled to decline 
 the request of their chief that I would accompany him 
 to his home. 
 
 The men of Kabadi have their persons covered, and 
 the women are very neatly dressed with petticoats 
 made from the young leaf of the sago-palm, dyed red, 
 yellow, brown, and black. The women do not shave 
 the head, as is done along the coast, but allow the hair 
 to grow long, tying it all together on the top of the head. 
 The young women in their dress use many shells of 
 various kinds, and the young men resemble the Gulf 
 natives. Daughters of chiefs, when they are about 
 twelve or thirteen years of age, are kept indoors for two 
 or three years, never being allowed, under any pretence, 
 to descend from the house, and the house is so shaded that 
 the sun cannot shine on them. When the time arrives 
 
i6o 
 
 THE ICABADI DISTRICT. 
 
 for one so kept to be introduced into society, a great 
 feast is prepared, and all tlie young swells in the 
 neighbourhood are invited. The food is brought up in 
 front of the house, where, when the young lady descends, 
 it is divided. When dinner is ended, dancing begins, 
 and the prisoner of the last few years mixes with the 
 crowd and selects her beau, presenting him with a betel- 
 nut. She is now, like other girls of the place, allowed 
 to go about as she desires. 
 
 Along the rivers are ferries, with canoes regularly 
 plying, and men or women are always ready to take 
 you across. A dog that accompanied us was much 
 honoured. Getting to know that she was called Jess, 
 they would, when some distance off, shout, ‘ Jess ! Jess ! ’ 
 Maino ! maino ! maino ! (Peace). I was often asked 
 to tell Jess that all Ivabadi is maino, and she must 
 not frighten anyone. She has a particular dislike to 
 any one carrying arms ; so I tell them that only such 
 and thieves need be afraid. Opportunities for preaching 
 the Gospel were not infrequent, and on Sundays public 
 services were held, at which the attendance was good. 
 On the 19tli of August we started on an inland journey, 
 accompanied by the chief Naimieru, as guide. 
 
 We passed through a fine level country, studded 
 with plantations of bananas and yams, into a belt of 
 thick low scrub, with a swamp close in to the hills. 
 We camped at Ivokoubadina, a place with a few tumble- 
 down sheds used by natives when making sago. The 
 place is entirely surrounded by swamp, with numerous 
 sago palms. The next day we had a long tramp through 
 thick scrub and long deep bogs. We crossed the 
 Akevailui on a native suspension bridge made of cane, 
 the same as the Dyak bridges of Borneo. The river is 
 
CROSSING THE MARINA. 
 
 161 
 
 deep, and contains a large body of water : it rises in 
 the Owen Stanley Range and flows west, falling into the 
 Aroa a few miles below Kabadi. Some miles beyond 
 the Akevailui we crossed the Maikona, about three 
 feet deep and not very broad, with pale blue water 
 flowing away to the westward, and falling into the 
 Akevailui. About six miles beyond the Maikona we 
 crossed the Mabina, a small stream that also runs into 
 the Akevailui. Before crossing, we saw on the opposite 
 bank two girls, who, knowing our guide, remained, and 
 helped to carry our goods down and up the steep banks. 
 This was certainly a suspicious-looking place for alli- 
 gators, and I felt right glad when all were safely over. 
 Lest we should frighten the people, the girls and one 
 of our carriers went on ahead ; but, on entering the 
 miserable tumble-down village of Revareva, we found all 
 had gone on to another village some miles further west. 
 
 We crossed the Enona about two miles beyond 
 Revareva. It runs swiftly over slippery shingle, is 
 broad and tolerably deep. The native women were 
 leading, shouting, as they were crossing the stream, the 
 names of several small pigs following. When I was 
 just getting into the river, I heard a great noise ahead, 
 and the native women apparently in great trouble. 
 Jess did not like the pigs leading her, so, seizing one, 
 nearly tore off its ear. The pig was saved ; but Jess 
 will remember that attempt at murder. Through this 
 incident we nearly lost our dusky female guides. The 
 Enona flows into the Akevailui. Again, through 
 swamp, into a splendid forest of very high trees, on to 
 higher ground, sixty feet above sea-level, for some 
 miles, and then descended to cross the Yaremenana, a 
 broad stream, apparently from the Yule Range, at the 
 
 M 
 
THE KABADI DISTRICT. 
 
 162 
 
 back of Hall Sound. All bad a bathe and then a smoke, 
 and away through forest and swamp to Iduna. On 
 nearing the miserable tumble-down place, the men came 
 rushing out with spears, and in their terror were about 
 to throw them, although the women and their chief 
 kept calling on them to desist. Poor fellows ! They 
 had never seen foreigners before, and never expected to, 
 and here they were in their village ! A more miserable 
 place I have not been in in New Guinea. Bush and 
 swamp all around. I11 a short time we obtained a 
 change of clothes, and were squatting on the ground 
 feeling quite at home with the villagers. They were 
 delighted with our salt, knowing only the salt sand from 
 the seashore at Toutu. They showed us bundles of 
 this salt sand, got from Kabadi natives. I found this 
 was not their permanent home, but that they belonged 
 to a large district on the Yule Eange, and that at certain 
 seasons they come down to the sago swamps and visit 
 Kabadi, to get salt and make sago, and then return to 
 the mountains. Dogs, pigs, and people live altogether 
 in terrible squalor. 
 
 We pitched our tent, but the mosquitoes being 
 numerous, I preferred the open air in the middle of the 
 village. After dark a triangle was made of sticks, and 
 three hammocks were fastened to them. Each hammock 
 was occupied by a youth. I11 all their dwellings 
 hammocks were swung about. I noticed the same 
 custom at Ivabadi. The men sleep in hammocks, the 
 women on the floor. These hammocks are made by 
 inland natives, and are similar to those used in Asliantee. 
 They use adzes, roughly made from slate: certainly 
 the poorest I have seen. The men have their persons 
 covered ; the women wear only a slip of native cloth. 
 
THE SPIRIT KANITU. 
 
 163 
 
 The women work very fine fancy garters worn by the 
 men. Several of the men at Iduna had shell ornaments 
 that I knew could not be got anywhere on this coast, 
 and, on inquiring, found they came from the other side. 
 This is the first time I have met trade from the other 
 coast ; and, from information I have, I hope to have a 
 walk there on a path from this place. Our clothes and 
 gear amused them very much ; my air pillow will never 
 he forgotten by them. They were highly delighted 
 with our beads. They presented to us a pig, some sago, 
 and a quantity of feathers, and gave me a very hearty 
 invitation to visit them in their mountain home. The 
 women were not at all afraid of us, and were as modest 
 as any on the coast. These mountain natives are very 
 reserved concerning their faith. All I could get from 
 them was this : their Great Spirit lived on the mountains, 
 and was called Oarova ; he had a wife named Ovirova ; 
 they had a son called Kurorova. 
 
 On the following day we returned, and fell in with a 
 Orokolo native who greatly interested me. In counting 
 they begin with the small finger on the left hand and 
 go up the arm — by the neck, ear, eye, and nose — to the 
 other side. Then down the right arm, ending at the 
 small finger thereof. From him I got the following: — 
 
 The spirit Kanitu made two men and two women, 
 who came out of the earth. The name of the elder 
 brother was Leleva, and the younger, Yovod; and from 
 them have sprung all mankind. They believe in one 
 spirit, who lives in spirit-land on the mountains, and 
 when he visits them he rests on the ridge of the temple. 
 He is represented in the temple in wicker wood ; there 
 he is consulted, and there presents are made to him. 
 
 Iko, a brave man, went to the land of spirits, and 
 
 M 2 
 
THE KABADI DISTRICT. 
 
 164 
 
 saw there the inhabitants feasting and dancing. There 
 was a splendid temple, and he, wishing to rest, was 
 told he might lie on the floor, the spirit meanwhile 
 resting on the ridge pole. Iko returned and told what 
 he had seen. He had a wife whose name was Iva. 
 They had one son. Some time after, Iko was murdered, 
 and the murderers, returning to their village, saw him 
 sitting on a large stone. They approached him, saying, 
 
 ‘ We killed you ; how comes it that you are now alive ? ’ 
 He said, ‘ I am not killed ; I am alive.’ They got a 
 cocoanut cup and went to where they had murdered 
 him, got some of his blood, and returned to him, saying, 
 
 ‘ Here is some of your blood ; what can you say ? ’ He 
 replied, * Enough ; I cannot live with you ; and you 
 cannot live with me ; but you, too, will die and leave 
 that life, never to return to it again ; you will come to 
 me, to the land of spirits, of plenty and joy, land of 
 continual feasting and dancing, and the only life worth 
 calling life. Did you but know what this life is, you 
 would ever be wishing for it. That life you live is bad, 
 and ends ; this only is good, and never-ending.’ Iko 
 is now Kanitu, and causes everything to grow. 
 
 Once this earth was : drowned,’ only the tops of very 
 high mountains left. Lohero and his younger brother 
 were angry with the people about them, and they put 
 a human bone into a small stream. Soon the great 
 waters came forth, forming a sea, covering all the 
 low land, forcing the people back to the mountains ; 
 the waters still increasing, the natives ascended until 
 they had to take refuge on the tops of the very highest, 
 and there they lived until the sea receded. Some 
 went to the low lands ; the others remaining on the 
 ridges built houses and formed plantations. 
 
TRADITION OF A FLOOD. 
 
 165 
 
 I asked the old man if lie thought his people would 
 receive me kindly were I to visit Orokolo. He put his 
 finger in his mouth, threw his head round, and said, 
 ‘ Receive you ? yes, and with great rejoicing, and they 
 will nurse you as their own. Come, Tamate, take 
 me home, and you will see what sort of reception you 
 will get.’ 
 
( 166 ) 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 SOME NEW GUINEA VILLAGES. 
 
 Tobokau — A feast — A New Guinea belle’s debut — Duhu or sacred 
 place at Kevanai — Brown River — Native hospitality — Funeral 
 ceremonies — Rain-making — A New Guinea Queen — Death of 
 Da, a native chief — Mourning over him — Ceremonies at the 
 Dubu on tbe death of a chief — The Yule sorcerer — The New 
 Guiuea Queen at home. 
 
 In October, 1880, I started to visit Doura, a district 
 near the base of Mount Owen Stanley, but on arriving at 
 Manumanu, in Redscar Bay, I was informed that the day 
 before a party of coast natives had gone up the river 
 and surprised the nearest village, killing twenty, and 
 taking away everything they could carry. It would 
 be useless for us to go then, as the natives of the other 
 villages would have fled to the mountains, and would not 
 return for some time ; so I determined we should visit 
 Naara, the district around Cape Suckling. A few miles 
 east of Cape Suckling there is a small salt-water creek, 
 in which we left our boat, and walked to the village of 
 Tobokau, ten miles inland. The country is very swampy 
 near the coast, but between the swamp and the hills is 
 very fine, level country. The village is on one of the 
 ridges, 150 feet above sea-level, with low, thick scrub all 
 round ; for that part of New Guinea it is a large village. 
 Houses belonging to one family adjoin, with one 
 verandah covered over. A man with more wives than 
 
A VILLAGE FEAST. 
 
 167 
 
 one has for each wife a separate house. Food, children, 
 house duties, planting, &c., all are distinct. Sometimes 
 the wives are very friendly, and assist one another in 
 planting and cooking, but more generally the opposite, 
 and then the poor husband wishes their houses were in 
 different villages, instead of being close by one another 
 with one verandah. A native asked me if I knew he 
 once had two wives, and on my replying I was not 
 aware of it, he said, ‘ Yes, I had two wives ; but they 
 nearly broke my heart. It was a continuous quarrel, 
 so I sent one about her business, telling her she must 
 never appear again in my house. Lately she sent to me 
 for a little tobacco, and to know if I would have her 
 back. I gave no tobacco, and to have her back I know 
 better than that.’ 
 
 They were having a grand feast when we entered the 
 village. Some were dancing, others were cutting up 
 pigs, so that we were right in the village before they 
 noticed us. On seeing us the men rushed for arms, 
 women and children climbed on to the verandahs 
 quicker than they generally do. On knowing who we 
 were, arms were put down and a crowd gathered round. 
 Some were all over blood from pig-cutting, others were 
 dressed regardless of expense. There were head-dresses 
 of many shapes, and a few had hats seven feet high, 
 a wooden frame, one mass of feathers and plumes. Some 
 had large pieces of native cloth, beautifully marked, 
 like tartan ; from others, long streamers, made from the 
 pandanus leaf, hung from the neck, arms, and legs ; and 
 nearly all had necklaces, armlets, and anklets made of 
 shells. All their wealth of jewellery and clothing they 
 carried on them that day. 
 
 Having met the chief Haimieru at Ivabadi, we settled 
 
1 68 SOME NEW GUINEA VILLAGES. 
 
 down with him. His wife No. 1 attended on us. A 
 noisier body I have not met in New Guinea. She 
 began on our arrival, was at it when we left — getting 
 hoarse though. In the evening, dancing was resumed, 
 and kept up to an early hour. One would think they 
 require the morning light and heat of a sun fifteen 
 degrees high, to go home by, as these dances are seldom 
 over until the sun is well up. Some people think these 
 meetings mere innocent amusement ; but it is because 
 they know nothing of natives. Purity is unknown. 
 There are no moral natives, unless very young children, 
 and even they have their minds stored with filth. I 
 slept in one of the chief’s houses, a pig close alongside 
 of me, and during the night the brute must grunt 
 music, determined to prevent me sleeping. To turn it 
 out would have given mortal offence, and might end in 
 my being turned out in a not very pleasant manner. 
 
 The following morning the chief presented us with a 
 pig (not the pet pig of the night before), yams, and 
 bananas, and we gave a return present. In the 
 afternoon we returned to the boat, but finding the 
 wind too strong we slept on the beach, and the follow- 
 ing day returned to Manumanu, where we spent the 
 Sunday. We had two good services, the people 
 wonderfully attentive. I had hoped to go up the 
 river on the Monday to Doura, but on the Saturday 
 afternoon we heard that another party had gone inland, 
 and no guide would go with us. 
 
 On the 28th of October, 1880, I left Kapakapa, the 
 village near Pound Head, where Ioane is teacher; he 
 accompanied me to visit inland in the Tarova district, 
 two of which villages had been visited by Mr. Beswick. 
 The first we came to was Bonotupu, six miles from the 
 
NA TIVE DANCING. 
 
 169 
 
 coast, two hundred and seventy feet above sea-level,, 
 with a population of about seven hundred. One mile 
 and a half further on is Kanotage, three hundred and 
 sixty feet above sea-level, substantially built houses, 
 same as at Kalo, and a population of about five hundred. 
 Two miles further is Ividobada, three hundred and sixty 
 feet above sea-level, and with a population of about 
 five hundred. In this village the women were in 
 charge, all fighting men being out on the war-path in 
 quest of taro. The houses are very large, and for 
 native houses well built. Two miles further on is 
 perhaps the largest of the villages, Kabiamaka, three 
 hundred and sixty feet above sea-level, with a popula- 
 tion of about eight hundred. North of Bonotupu, about 
 one mile and a half, is Papaga, three hundred and sixty 
 feet above sea-level, with a population of about four 
 hundred. We were hurried out of this village by an 
 offensive effluvium from a corpse drying in the sun. 
 At these five villages there are large quantities of food 
 of all kinds, obtained from plantations close by. Their 
 water is got from small running streams in the valleys, 
 and is good. 
 
 About three miles further inland is Gerise, nine 
 hundred feet above sea-level, with a population of 
 about two hundred. They were having a grand feast, 
 and insisted on our remaining to see the opening dance. 
 At the opposite end of the village to us we heard 
 drumming, and soon four girls, beautifully tattooed, 
 came on dancing, followed by thirty men drumming 
 and dancing, and two more girls brought up the rear. 
 The dancing w 7 as wild and the drumming noisy. These 
 girls were being publicly introduced into society. They 
 were skilfully dressed with feathers and shells, and 
 
170 
 
 SOME NEW GUINEA VILLAGES. 
 
 short dress petticoats, made for the occasion. It was 
 amusing to see the anxiety of the female relatives to 
 have all correct, and every motion as correct as possi- 
 ble. In the centre of the village they had what I call 
 a gigantic Christmas-tree, about seventy-five feet high, 
 and branches in proportion, laden with cocoanuts, betel- 
 nuts, bananas, and yams, and numerous pandanus-leaf 
 streamers, croton leaves and flowers all hung about. 
 In front of the houses were collections of food, and 
 
 NEW GUINEA DRUMS AND I’lPE. 
 
 every verandah was nicely decorated t with flowers, 
 variegated leaves and food. A great many natives, all 
 armed, were in from various districts, and many that 
 we met in our last long tramp came to touch chins. 
 They have plenty of food and good water close by. 
 
 On the 29th, I visited Veipuri, inland from Kaile six 
 miles. Alon" the banks of the Vailala River are some 
 
 O 
 
 fine plantations and plenty of good land under bush. 
 There are three villages in the district on ridges close 
 

THE K OITA P UA NS. 
 
 173 
 
 by the Astrolabe Eange. They seem to have abundance 
 of food and betel- nuts. They belong to the Koiari 
 tribe, who generations ago were driven over the Astrolabe 
 by their friends and settled down here. The village we 
 visited is on a ridge, six hundred and thirty feet above 
 sea-level. Close by was a large stream of running water. 
 We were well received, and returned laden with taro and 
 betel-nuts. We got into the boat at Vailala, called at 
 Tupuselei, and arrived at Port Moresby somewhere near 
 the small hours. The Dourans, we hear, have concluded 
 a peace with Lealea, and the chief Adu has sent us word 
 to visit him. He says that while he lives he will have no 
 peace with the Koitapuans of Lokurukuna, who attacked 
 him and Manumanu, as it was a man from this place 
 who led the attacking party up the river, and showed 
 them the way through the bush ; but for his guidance 
 the Koitapuans could not have found the village. At 
 Munikahila, during our teacher Jakoba’s visit to the 
 coast, the natives broke into his house, took what suited 
 them, and threw the remainder outside. Hitherto the 
 Koiarians have stolen nothing from any one of us, and 
 it is a pity they should now begin. 
 
 We reached Lealea in the evening. Some years ago 
 a teacher lived here, but was removed. The place is 
 surrounded with swamp, and the people looked very 
 miserable. We got the chief’s front verandah to sleep on. 
 
 — In the very early morning we left Lealea, 
 pulling up a large salt water creek for about five miles, 
 under the guidance of a Koitapuan. Leaving the boat in 
 a clump of mangrove, we travelled for about five miles 
 across a very barren piece of country to the Laroki 
 Liver, where it is a large stream. Meeting a party of 
 Koitapuans on the way, we enlisted two into our 
 
174 
 
 SOME NEW GUINEA VILLAGES. 
 
 service, wlio were friendly with Doura natives, and 
 willing to accompany ns. Having secured a double 
 canoe, we paddled for about twenty miles up the river, 
 which is deep and broad all the way, much more so than 
 at Moumili. We left the river by a large creek that led 
 us into a network of lagoons, and through these to 
 Kevani, a Ivoitapu village. The lagoons swarmed with 
 wild ducks and many other kinds of birds, which 
 feasted on the abundance of fish. All up the Laroki 
 and in the creek and lagoons the alligators were very 
 numerous. Beautiful lilies, tinted blue and white, 
 adorned the fever-stinking swamp. Paddling, poling, 
 and wading brought us about five o’clock to the village — 
 a miserable locality in very truth. We were given the 
 dubu — sacred place or platform — to sleep on. It is 
 about twenty feet off the ground, the posts are carved, 
 and on each side have representations of men, women, 
 and alligators, roughly done, and showing very little 
 taste. The people were exceedingly kind, giving us 
 food cooked and uncooked. Shooting ducks on the way 
 up frightened them much, but having heard I was likely 
 to be about soon, some thought they would risk coming 
 down in their double canoe and have a look, others 
 were rushing through the bush with their arms. On 
 seeing us, and learning who we were and what we 
 wanted, they shouted to the village, so that on our 
 landing we were received as friends. 
 
 1 1th . — Stinking swamps all round, and mosquitoes 
 so numerous that even their singing outside of the 
 net prevented sleep. The boards on the sacred place 
 were so uneven that they could not be spoken of as 
 ‘very comfortable,’ and between them the mosquitoes 
 found me out. It was a most romantic night ; clear 
 
A TROUBLED NIGHT. 
 
 '7 5 
 
 moonlight, beautiful lilies, tropical forests with gigan- 
 tic trees ; sleeping on a platform twenty feet high, 
 with coarsely-carved figures and pigs’ jaws fastened 
 as pegs, on which we hung our things, mosquitoes 
 singing outside your net, and rascally ones biting 
 you inside ; men, women, and children coughing, 
 and the last, also, crying ; and ugly dingoes collected 
 underneath, with evil designs, and howling fright- 
 fully. 
 
 Starting early next morning we travelled westerly 
 through low country, swampy in many parts, with 
 thick low scrub. In the afternoon we came on to the 
 bank of the Brown Biver. It is about the same in 
 size as the Kemp Welch. A few natives in a canoe 
 poling up the river were very much afraid of us, and 
 it was only after a good deal of palaver we got them to 
 come and ferry us across. Since the attack by the 
 Koitapuans on the village nearest the mouth, the natives 
 have left their houses in the other villages, and for the 
 present have gone further up the river. Two natives 
 led us through the bush for about two miles further 
 up the river, where the elder one gave a peculiar call, 
 and soon there was a great noise from the other side, 
 and, on coming out on the bank, we could see men 
 arming, and women and children running about in 
 great excitement. The native leading us called on me 
 to stand in front close to the stream. I got in front, 
 when he shouted my name, and, laughing, told them 
 to put their arms away. Packed canoes came across, 
 and in one of them was the chief Adu. I had gone 
 into the bush a little way to get out of the sun, having- 
 had sufficient for one day, so that Adu on landing- 
 wanted to know what had become of me, and on being 
 
176 
 
 SOME NEW GUINEA VILLAGES. 
 
 showed where I was, hurried on, touched my chin, and 
 I his, then took me by the hand and hurried me off, as 
 if impatient to get across. Adu is a fine-looking fellow, 
 light-coloured and tall, with a beard of which he is 
 •exceedingly proud. Their present houses are mere 
 lean-overs. At night they cross the river to a sand 
 beach a little way up, carrying with them all their 
 valuable property. They wanted us to accompany 
 them, and so be safe from enemies. But we had done 
 •enough for one day, and would chance enemies. We 
 were given three lean-overs and plenty of bananas. 
 
 12 th . — Spent to-day visiting with Adu the villages 
 further up the river. The people live very scattered. 
 Adu says from Veriveri we can get to the very top of 
 Mount Owen Stanley, where villages are to be found. 
 He has heard it is dreadfully cold up there. If I return 
 he will take me to many villages on the spurs. In each 
 ■of the villages visited we had presents of cooked food. 
 In the afternoon returned to camp. At one village 
 the people were very much afraid of us, and begged 
 Adu to lead us on. 
 
 l?j th. — Beady to start before sunrise. No sleep : 
 dingoes and mosquitoes beyond description ; net simply 
 useless. Adu was anxious to keep us ; he brought a 
 pig, but all the pigs in Doura would not have kept us. 
 
 ‘ Stay to-day with us, Tamate.’ 
 
 ‘ No, I cannot ; I must return.’ 
 
 ‘ But here is a pig ; you must eat it, or carry it away 
 with you.’ 
 
 He thinks he has me in a corner ; he knows we have 
 no carriers for a pig, and we must remain to eat it ; for 
 who ever left a pig ? 
 
 ‘ Adu, mark that pig as mine, and when I return to 
 
INTERVIEW WITH THE CHIEF A DU. 1 77 
 
 visit the places we have been speaking about, then we 
 can have a feast.’ 
 
 ‘ Are you sure to return ? ’ 
 
 ‘ Do you see that mountain, and all these ridges and 
 spurs ? They are unvisited, and you say there are 
 many villages. I must return, if well.’ 
 
 ‘ I believe you. The pig we shall eat on your 
 return.’ 
 
 Adu himself must needs take me down the river 
 to the path, and would gladly have accompanied me 
 to see Port Moresby, but I was afraid of his being- 
 waylaid, and at present I could not well return to see 
 him home. When parting he said — • 
 
 ‘ I should like to have gone with you. I can get no 
 young wives here ; I might at Boribori.’ 
 
 ‘Wait, friend, until I have seen and spoken to the 
 Koitapuans.’ 
 
 He will gladly now make peace in the ordinary 
 way. We parted as old friends — he giving me a 
 parting present, and I gave him one in return. We 
 travelled hard, no resting ; and when we got to 
 Kevani all seemed knocked up. Had dinner, and, to 
 the disgust of our guides, entered our canoes and left 
 for the coast, arriving at Lealea some time early in the 
 morning of the new day. 
 
 \Wi . — Maiva canoes reported on their way here. Our 
 first report was that Lolo natives (those who killed Dr, 
 James and Captain Thorngren) had come down in force 
 to attack Manumanu, and that several canoes from Port 
 Moresby lying there had only women and children in 
 them, the men having gone to Ivabadi. A canoe was 
 dispatched, soon returning with information that they 
 were traders only for Lealea, and that numbers more 
 
 N 
 
178 
 
 SOME NEW GUINEA VILLAGES. 
 
 were on their way. Hoping to return with them to 
 Maiva, we hurried off to Tupuselei, to visit their inland 
 villages. A strong south-easter prevented our arriving 
 before eight p.m. 
 
 10 th . — A child having died a few days ago, wailing 
 is still continued. Unfortunately the corpse is not 
 far from the mission house, and with chanting and 
 drumming so near it was impossible to sleep. All was 
 in a low irritating key, if only in a high noisy one, 
 sleep would have been possible. Had early breakfast, 
 then away with guides to Tabunari. Just at the hack 
 of coast ridges is an extensive swamp, then good country, 
 well-watered, for a few miles ; then leaving it we got 
 on to the ridges in front of Astrolabe spurs. Tabunari 
 is very much scattered ; a house or two on a spur. The 
 people are Koiarians. They were very kind — cooking 
 us food, and giving us presents of spears, food, and 
 betel-nuts. The village we were in was three hundred 
 and sixty feet above sea-level, close to a fine stream of 
 beautifully clear water. From there we travelled west 
 to Fasili, three hundred and sixty feet above sea-level ; 
 forty houses, people all Kirari. Pieturning early to 
 Tupuselei, we got into our dingy and returned to port, 
 arriving late. 
 
 23rd . — Arrived at Boera on our way to Maiva, having 
 promised our friend Oa, the chief, to visit him before 
 the end of the year. When I met him at the port a few 
 weeks ago he asked me to get Eenaki and Revakura, of 
 Hula, to send a son each to Maiva, that he would 
 receive them and treat them kindly, and after sago 
 season he would visit Hula. The two lads are with us, 
 hut they go with fear and trembling. Our boatmen are 
 not sure of this trip, they lack the heartiness of former 
 
ATONE, THE RAIN-MAKER. 
 
 179 
 
 trips. We have met some Maiva men, who say Oa is 
 very ill ; one says he is better. (He was really dead, 
 hut they were afraid to tell us.) Piri, who is now a 
 great man with the Gulf natives, will accompany us, and, 
 in hopes of getting sago, will take his own boat. Very 
 little would turn our men home and leave us to go alone. 
 
 24 tli . — Left Boera this morning. In crossing Caution 
 and Piedscar Bays we have a strong tide against us, so 
 did not get to Naara coast until dark. The sun was 
 exceedingly hot. 
 
 25 tli . — Slept last night on beach, near Cape Suckling, 
 and by sunrise left for the west. When a few miles 
 beyond the Cape, we met three Delena canoes with 
 pottery. It seems that in ancient times the Boera 
 natives were one with his people, and now a great many 
 Boera women are married to Delena natives. They were 
 waiting for the Xa 1110a natives to come down and trade 
 for their pottery with smoked kangaroo. We all landed, 
 and, after luncheon, a party was arranged to visit Xamoa. 
 When about to start, I said, ‘ I fear it will rain before 
 we can return.’ 
 
 A woman sitting close by said, ‘ It cannot rain until 
 after we return home to Delena.’ 
 
 ‘Why not?’ 
 
 ‘ The rain-maker is with us, and he alone has power.’ 
 ■‘ Where is he ? ’ and she pointed to the chief Kone. 
 
 Kone, my friend, what about the rain ? ’ 
 
 ‘ It cannot rain ; so do not be afraid.’ 
 
 ‘ But I think it will rain this afternoon, and I am not 
 :sure of going to Hamoa until our return from Maiva.’ 
 ‘You need not fear; so let us start.’ 
 
 They were exceedingly desirous that we should at once, 
 start. So off we set for a walk of about three miles 
 
 n 2 
 
180 SOME NEW GUINEA VILLAGES. 
 
 When crossing a piece of level country, I said, ‘ Now,. 
 Kone, it will rain.’ 
 
 ‘ It will not ! ’ and he cried out, ‘ Bain, stay on the 
 mountains.’ 
 
 I said, ‘ Bio use, Kone, rain will come.’ 
 
 We reached Hamoa, and the rain has come, and here 
 we are prisoners. Kone only says — 
 
 ‘ Do you think I thought you were a man of no 
 power ? You are a Loliiabada (great chief), and so am 
 I, but the rain has listened to you.’ 
 
 Kone laughs when I say, ‘ Come, my friend, remember 
 what I have been telling you of the great and good 
 Spirit, and His power.’ He was greatly relieved when it 
 began to clear up, and the stars to peep out. We were led 
 into the great meeting-house, and as a mark of friendship 
 were at once presented with betel-nuts and cooked food. 
 
 For the first time in Hew Guinea I have met a real 
 cliieftainess — a perfect Amazon — who rules her hus- 
 band as well as others. She is about twenty -four years 
 of age. Her husband is about twenty-six, rather good- 
 looking. I have no doubt he can sulk amazingly. The 
 people are all very kind, coming with presents of cooked 
 food and betel-nuts. The women altogether are very 
 masculine in appearance. Two young girls are being 
 introduced into society, so there is feasting, and will be 
 dancing during the evening. Both are laden with 
 feathers, shell jewellery, and pigs’ tails; they looked 
 pale from long confinement, and were not able to walk 
 well. During the afternoon they were walked up and 
 down the village by two old dames, who preceded thenu 
 We have to camp out here to-night, without blankets, 
 and in damp clothes. A great crowd attended our 
 evening sendee, and all were very quiet. 
 
DELENA. 
 
 1 8 r 
 
 20th . — Had a tolerable night, with a crowd of natives 
 to watch us, lest any harm should come to us. Chief- 
 tainess Koloka, and her husband, Boe, must also be in 
 attendance. Dancing began about seven, and continued 
 until twelve, when rain dispersed the merry dancers. 
 Our friend Oa is dead, and I fancy my natives are not 
 sure of going on ; they are conjuring up all imaginable 
 evils. All our Namoa friends were anxious this 
 morning that we should stay until mid-day ; but, anxious 
 to press on, we left in the early morning, accompanied 
 to the boats by Koloka, Boe, men, women, and children, 
 four men carrying a pig, and others food — a present to 
 us from Koloka. A great many were carrying smoked 
 wallaby, and on getting to the coast they traded all 
 away for pottery. They are all sharp traders. Koloka 
 and her husband wish us to call on our return, and they 
 will visit Port Moresby with us. Namoa is a good 
 village about three hundred and sixty feet above sea- 
 level, with a population of about three hundred. 
 
 Delena natives having disposed of their ware, we 
 accompanied them to Delena. It is a small village on 
 the main land opposite Yule Island. Pormerly they 
 lived on Yule, but so many having died there, they left it 
 for this. On both sides are extensive mangrove swamps, 
 and at the back a hill, one hundred feet high, with thick 
 bush, yet the people say it is a very healthy place, they 
 having no sickness, as on the island. When nearing 
 the village two canoes of Lolo natives came off; but I 
 would not let them come alongside until our friends 
 came up, and we had a talk about the murders of Dr. 
 James and Captain Tliorngren. After landing, we had 
 a meeting, and I was assured the Lolo natives did 
 not commit the murders, that it was Paitana natives, a 
 
182 
 
 SOME NEW GUINEA VILLAGES. 
 
 village near Lolo, up one of tlie creeks, and no great 
 distance from the coast. The story we heard three 
 years ago was substantiated as to the reason of the 
 murders. These people are not altogether free from 
 blame, as they could have prevented the Paitana natives 
 attacking, or have informed Dr. James the day before 
 that an attack was arranged. They speak very well of 
 Dr. James, but of another naturalist and collector who 
 lived on the island they use the strongest expressions 
 of dislike, and hope he may never return. They say he 
 was always threatening, and did fire on more than one 
 occasion on natives. I asked them why he was not 
 murdered, and they said he left before a plot laid was 
 carried out ; but had he remained much longer he would 
 have gone. Such men do an amazing amount of harm, 
 and endanger the lives of many. 
 
 27 th . — Arrived at Maiva this evening in rain. We 
 were met on the beach by a great crowd of natives — 
 men, women, and children, and not a club, spear, or 
 bow. They have been expecting us for some time. 
 Fearing a westerly wind, we anchored our boats well out, 
 and landed, walking in to Oa’s village. They had not 
 heard of our arrival, so we were near the village before 
 they were aware of it. Paru, Oa’s brother, came 
 running out to meet us ; he led us right up to Oa’s 
 house, and, taking me by the hand, drew me in. The 
 house was very dark. The chief is buried in the centre, 
 a mat was spread over the grave, on which I was asked 
 to sit until they had ‘ a weeping.’ Plis wives, daughters- 
 in-law, and weeping women sat round ; his son, Meauri, 
 sat at the foot, and several of the male relatives stood 
 beside me. It was unbearable : at times loud, then again 
 low and plaintive, one party would chant a question of 
 

A 
 
 DUBUS AT VAILALA AND MOAI’A. — KO AFINA, CHIEF OF MOAPA. 
 
4 LARGE 'DUBU: 
 
 i8 S 
 
 something relating to the deceased, and the opposite 
 party of women would reply, then all would unite in 
 a great hurst. They beat their breasts and tore their 
 hair, swaying themselves right and left, backwards and 
 forwards. I sent for Piri, and got him to take my 
 place. Oa spoke of me to them all as a special friend, 
 and shortly before his death wondered why I had not 
 •come. He was a fine fellow, somewhat despotic in his 
 own place, a man of war from his youth, and a great 
 sorcerer. He had a wonderful influence all along the 
 •coast, to Port Moresby on the east, and to Orokolo, near 
 Bald Head, on the west. His bows and arrows are 
 stuck at the head of the grave, and on these hang some 
 of his ornaments. The greater part of his jewellery is 
 buried with him. The large temple, or dubu, is given 
 to us to live in during our stay ; but our followers 
 must not enter. It is one hundred and sixty feet 
 long and thirty feet broad. At the entrance is a 
 screen made from the sago -palm leaf, hanging loosely. 
 Overhead, just inside, are six large frames, all covered 
 with feathers of various kinds. These are sacred to the 
 spirit, and must never be looked upon by women, 
 young unmarried men, or children. I occupy Oa’s 
 place in the dubu. All the posts are named, and each 
 chief has his own particular post. A large front post, 
 with a well-carved alligator, done by Oa shortly before 
 his death with a tomahawk I gave him, is named 
 Tamate. Meauri came in the evening, and called me 
 out, to know if I was comfortable, and if there was 
 anything he could do for me. He dare not enter, 
 being in mourning. 
 
 28 th . — We had a very large attendance at service 
 this morning, in the centre of the village — the first ever 
 
1 86 SOME NEW GUINEA VILLAGES. 
 
 held in this locality. Eua, one of the chiefs, is now 
 sitting alongside; he tells me it would be a fearful 
 thing for any woman or youth to look inside the clulm, 
 if they did, they would he smitten with loathsome 
 disease, and never recover. Shortly, all the men will 
 gather in this place, and for two months will not see 
 or be seen by females or youths. Enclosed paths are 
 to he made from the dubu to the bush, along which 
 they can go unseen with safety. At stated times food 
 will he brought by their wives, and left outside at some 
 distance, and when no one is about they go out and 
 carry it in. Any one becoming sick during these two 
 months must remain in dubu, and on no account go out 
 to friends. 
 
 ‘Now, Eua, tell me, if one should die, what then ? ’ 
 
 ‘ No one can die during that time.’ 
 
 ‘ But suppose one should die, what would you do ? ’ 
 
 ‘ Take his body outside, and leave it for his wife or 
 wives and children to carry away, weep over, and bury.’ 
 The taboo is very strict, no one will break it. Any 
 one breaking the taboo would be smitten with leprosy 
 that would ‘ consume ’ him. When the two months 
 are up, and the taboo is off, all march to the sea and 
 bathe, return to the dubu, and dress in their finest, then 
 out to a grand feast prepared by the outsiders, after 
 which dancing and feasting are carried on for several 
 days and nights. Should a man be pursued by an 
 enemy, and take refuge in the dubu, he is perfectly safe 
 inside. Any one smiting another inside the dubu 
 would have his arms and legs shrivelled up, and he 
 could do nothing but wish to die. 
 
 Eua has lately been to the Port, and seen our new 
 church ; he says, ‘ Tamate, your dubu is bad.’ - 
 
OPENINGS FOR CHRISTIAN WORK. 
 
 187 
 
 ‘ No, Eua, it is small, but light, and we invite men, 
 women, and children to enter to hear of God and His 
 love through His Son, Jesus Christ. Your house is 
 dark, and no women or children must ever enter.’ 
 
 ‘ Ah ! You see this place is too sacred, and they must 
 never enter/ 
 
 ‘ Not so sacred as ours ; we never smoke or sleep in 
 ours, as you do here. We worship the one Great Spirit, 
 hy all meeting together, and praise Him in song, 
 prayer, reading His Word, and hearing of Him/ 
 
 To Eua it was all new. Meauri, Oa’s son, is a 
 strapping fellow, about twenty-six years of age. He 
 lias five wives, who are all much attached to him. 
 Meauri and all Oa’s friends, with all Maiva, would 
 willingly have teachers. A missionary here, with a 
 staff of teachers, could do valiant things for Christ. 
 Eeal work here can only be done hy living amongst the 
 people. The heathen must see our daily Efe, must 
 learn to love us, must hear from our lips the word of 
 Eternal Life, and so be led to love Christ. 
 
 29 tli . — Left before daylight for Keveri, a district inland 
 of Cape Possession. We crossed two deep swamps, 
 and passed through numerous well-kept yam planta- 
 tions. By the light of a waning moon, women were 
 out weeding, fearing to do so in the sun. There are 
 large groves of coacoanut-trees : and in the swamps 
 sago, palms, taro, yams, bananas, and sugar-cane are 
 all grown in great abundance. Keveri is as large 
 as Maiva, and the villages all kept as neat and 
 clean. In front of the houses on both sides of the 
 street in each village are coacoanut-trees, bread-fruit 
 trees, clracccncc of various kinds, and a beautiful assort- 
 ment of crotons. We had really a splendid reception. 
 
SOME NEW GUINEA VILLAGES. 
 
 1 88 
 
 and crowds came to see the strangers. Paru, Oa’s 
 brother, led the party, and he did his part well. We 
 returned laden with food. Mekeo natives are in from 
 inland with betel-nuts. They are terrible smokers. 
 In the evening we had a strong shock of earthquake ; 
 sitting on a platform in the village, 1 feared it was going 
 to fall, and I felt a peculiar sensation as of sea sickness. 
 Meauri and his friends say they will do all they can 
 to live peaceably amongst themselves and with neigh- 
 bouring villages. We leave to-morrow ; so to-night 
 there are great lamentations in the village, and many 
 nre the invitations to return soon. Some of those in 
 the dubu begged to be permitted to sit by the fire all 
 night, to talk and sing, and so keep us awake. I 
 decidedly objected. 
 
 30 th . — Received large presents this morning before 
 leaving, and all turned out to see us off. Meauri 
 would have kept us if he could. The one cry is, ‘ Do 
 return soon.’ With a fine wind from the north-west, 
 we were not long running over to Yule, and outside to 
 Delena. We found four large canoes in from Boera, 
 which were to have proceeded to Marva, but the great 
 Yule sorcerer did not get an armsliell large enough to 
 satisfy him, so he told them they must not go, as they 
 would all be killed if they went. They have decided 
 to return from here. I have met the sorcerer — a small, 
 mean, wicked-looking fellow. He would rather not 
 have seen me. The people are dreadfully afraid of 
 him. He was wild with passion when I told him in 
 the presence of the people that his trade was one of 
 murder, robbery, and lying, and that he had better give 
 it up, and no longer deceive the people. He gets the 
 best of everything — best pig, best food, best tomahawk, 
 
THE CHI EFT A IN ESS KOLOKA. 189. 
 
 best shells. If all these men could be changed, there 
 would be fewer murders on the coast. They can use 
 poison well, and their influence can bring tribes against 
 one another. He left me, vowing vengeance, and I fully 
 expected to see him in the morning. In the evening I 
 gave presents to chiefs, and arranged to visit Mekeo- 
 to-morrow, if it does not rain overmuch to-night. 
 
 December 1st . — Mekeo natives came in during the 
 night, and they report inland districts very unsettled, 
 and think it would be unsafe for us to visit them at 
 present, so we have decided to return, lleceived pre- 
 sents of feathers, pig, and food. Yule natives are over, 
 but the sorcerer keeps out of the way. With a light 
 wind we ran up to the Namoa Creek, where we landed. 
 On passing through the plantations we met our friend 
 Naime, Ivoloka’ s uncle, who, with his wife No. 1, came 
 on to the village with us. The only occupant of the 
 village was one old man ; Koloka and husband, with 
 men, women and children, were out planting. Naime’, s 
 wife at once cooked food — sago and yams ; and a youth 
 coming in was despatched to inform the cliieftainess 
 that we had returned. Soon she and her husband 
 appeared, and, after dinner, insisted that we should 
 accompany them to where the people were working. 
 We went out, and found men and women hard at work 
 with the long poles turning over the earth. Close by, 
 in the shade, a dozen women were cooking. They use 
 hammocks here, as at Kabadi, and a number were 
 fastened to trees about. In these we spent a lazy 
 afternoon. Her Eoyal Highness lay in a hammock 
 some distance off, attended by a number of women, wha 
 received her orders, and delivered them to the cooks. 
 She gave all her orders without any fuss and in a very 
 
J9o SOME NEW GUINEA VILLAGES. 
 
 quiet manner. We are told by the people that when 
 .she travels she is carried in a hammock by women. 
 She is certainly obeyed, and seems to have great power. 
 After feasting with the people, we returned in the cool 
 of the evening to the village. Koloka would not hear 
 of our going to the dicbu to sleep. She was much 
 interested in hearing from the boatmen of Maka’s 
 marriage to one of Ruatoka’s girls ; all the presents 
 were carefully enumerated. She would like Maka and 
 his wife to live with them here. Her husband, 
 lounging in his hammock and shaking his head, very 
 seriously told us in great confidence that he had to pay 
 an enormous sum for Koloka, viz., ten armshells, three 
 pearlshells, two strings of dogs’ teeth, several hundreds 
 of cocoanuts, large quantity of yarns, two pigs. 
 
 2nd . — Shortly after turning in last night we were 
 annoyed with mice — mice running over us, mice on 
 each side of us, mice at our feet, mice at our heads, and 
 mice overhead. About midnight we cleared out, and 
 stole away to the dicbu to have a quiet sleep ; but, alas ! 
 we were seen. First one came and threw himself close 
 by. Then Xairne and his wife Xo. 2 came and lighted a 
 fire to keep off enemies, real and spiritual. I told them 
 I would rather they had remained away and let the 
 enemies come. Boe, on wakening up for his midnight 
 smoke, found we were gone, and he, too, must come to 
 disturb us. I ordered him away, as he was too talkative. 
 They were greatly astonished at our apparent careless- 
 ness, sleeping anywhere, without guards, watch of any 
 kind, or arms. The idea of ordering them out of the 
 dubu, and being left alone, will not soon be forgotten. 
 
 After an early breakfast, we came to the coast, accom- 
 panied by all the people. Koloka and Boe decided to 
 
RETURN TO BO ERA. 
 
 191 
 
 remain, and finish planting ; they also wish to be in 
 the village when the Boerans call. Up till now, for 
 many years, they have been at enmity with Boera. 
 On our way down, some of our Boera boatmen went in 
 with us, and, being well received, they arranged at 
 Delena to get some of their leading men to call and 
 make peace. We left the Boerans one of our men, who 
 with Kone and the principal men from the canoes will 
 go in to Namoa, and conclude a peace. Boera gives 
 armshells and pearlshells ; Namoa, pigs, food, and betel- 
 nuts. With light winds, we crossed Eedscar and 
 Caution Bays, reaching Boera safely. 
 
C 192 ) 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 PEACE-MAKING. 
 
 Mr. Chalmers asked by the natives to go to Elema — Native fears 
 — Difficulties at the start — Namoa — Delena — A Motumotu 
 trading canoe — Interview with Semese, chief of Lese — Christian 
 natives — Friendly meeting with a war canoe — Arrival at 
 Motumotu — Friendly reception — Viewing Mr. Chalmers’ feet — 
 Natives in full dress — Sunday open-air service — Sago as an 
 article of commerce — Peace agreed upon — Return to Boera. 
 
 When at Kabadi in 1880 , tlie natives begged of me to 
 endeavour to prevent the Elema natives paying them 
 another visit, as they were now living in the bush 
 near the hills. All along the coast the people were 
 much afraid, expecting a raid, and at last news came in 
 from Maiva that Motumotu and Lese were making 
 great preparations that they would visit Motu, kill 
 Tamate and Euatoka, then attack right and left. Last 
 year when leaving they said they would return and 
 pay off accounts, kill the foreigners first, then all the 
 natives they could get hold of. 
 
 Under these circumstances, I resolve to visit Motu- 
 motu, and beard the lion in his den. I did not believe 
 they would touch me, but I feared they meant mischief 
 to Kabadi and the coast villages. No time could be lost, 
 as we were in a bad month for rain and storms, and the 
 coast line is long and bad. The natives said it was 
 too late, yet I resolved to try it. 
 
FEARS AT STARTING. 
 
 193 
 
 On the 5th January, 1881, we opened the new 
 church at Port Moresby, and baptised the first three 
 New Guinea converts. The church was crowded, and 
 all seemed interested. I arranged for Piri and his wife 
 to accompany me to the Gulf, they taking the whale 
 boat. We cannot call at Kabadi on our way down, as 
 we must hurry on, but our natives here were going to 
 Kabadi, and gladly took the news. 
 
 O 11 January 10, the flag flying on the boat told all 
 that we were to start. Our leader ran off to Kaili last 
 night, but Huakonio, one of the three baptised on the 
 5tli, was willing to go. Our boat’s crew were considered 
 fools, rushing into the arms of death. Wives, children, 
 and friends were gathered round weeping. The men 
 said, ‘ Cannot you see that if Tamate lives we shall 
 live ; and if he is murdered we shall be murdered ; it 
 is all right ; we are going with him, and you will see 
 us back all right with sago and betel-nuts.’ Huakonio 
 told me in the boat that every means imaginable but 
 physical force were used to prevent their accompanying 
 me ; and he added, ‘ We know it is all right ; the Spirit 
 that has watched over you in the past’ (naming the 
 various journeys) ‘ will do so now ; and if we return safe, 
 won’t the people be ashamed ? ’ 
 
 We left Port Moresby about nine a.m. with a light 
 head wind ; outside found the current very strong setting 
 easterly. We arrived at Boera at four p.m., and found 
 Piri and his wife ready to start at once. Piri has a 
 Boera crew, and we increased ours here by two. Here 
 the natives did not seem at all afraid, and many wished 
 to accompany us. 
 
 On leaving Boera, it was a beautiful clear moonlight 
 night, and there was a light land breeze. Pulling brought 
 
 o 
 
194 
 
 PEA CE-MAKING. 
 
 us to Varivara Islands, in Redscar Bay, about two A.M., 
 where we anchored until six, when we tried to make 
 Cape Suckling. As it was blowing hard from the north- 
 west, we had to put into Manumanu. The Motu traders 
 did all they could to persuade us to give up Motumotu, 
 and to visit Kabadi. Both crews would gladly have given 
 up ; their friends told them to leave us, and return in 
 the trading canoes. They came to me to say ‘ the bad 
 weather has set in, the winds and rains are here, we 
 cannot go on.’ 
 
 I replied, ‘ Think, my children, of the disgrace. We 
 started to go to Motumotu, and at the first breath of 
 contrary wind we put back. It must not be. Let us 
 try it a little longer, and if the wind increases we can 
 put back, and not feel so ashamed.’ 
 
 ‘ You are right,’ they rejoined ; ‘ we will go on with you.’ 
 
 At sunset we all got into our boats and were ready for 
 a start. A fellow who has just returned from Kabadi 
 thought to get over me by saying, ‘ Tamate, Kabadi are 
 looking daily for you, and they have a large present 
 ready ; feathers in abundance and sago ; your two boats 
 cannot take half.’ 
 
 ‘ I am going to Motumotu, and not all the feathers in 
 Kabadi, nor all the sago they can prepare, will turn me 
 now, until I have made a fair trial, and then, if driven 
 back, I will visit Kabadi.’ 
 
 I believe our crew had had a talk with that man 
 before he came to me. 
 
 It was five o’clock on January 12th before we got to 
 Kamo a, near Cape Suckling. Maiva canoes passed with 
 wallaby from Namoa. When ashore, cooking breakfast, 
 Koloka and her husband, with uncles and aunts, and 
 men and women from the village, came down. The 
 
DELENA HOSPITALITY. 
 
 195 
 
 two former were going to Maiva, and the crowd followed 
 to see them embark in one of the large Maiva canoes. 
 After the bamboo pipe had been passed all round, the 
 embarkation took place, men and women weeping as if 
 taking a final farewell. 
 
 When they had gone we told the people we wished 
 to sleep, and they left us undisturbed. In the afternoon 
 Ave came on to Delena, where we had right hearty 
 welcome. They are truly glad we are going to Motu- 
 motu, as they fear an attack, and hope our Adsit Avill 
 benefit them. They feel sure Motumotu will receive 
 us well, and seeing that I specially visit them, they say 
 it will be all right. The creAvs feel encouraged, and 
 are at present ashore feasting on dugong, sago and 
 betel-nuts. Some haA'e been off for tobacco, and are 
 now laughing at the folly of their friends. The sorcerer 
 is not in Delena ; but even he would do nothing to 
 prevent our going on. We are all ready to start with 
 a land breeze. The crews have sent us word, * When 
 you wish to start, call out; you will see us gladly 
 spring into the water.’ 
 
 On leaving Delena Avith a light breeze and pulling, we 
 reached the Keveri beach, near Cape Possession, about 
 eight a.m. When near Maiva, Ave met a Motumotu canoe. 
 At first they were afraid to come alongside of us, but 
 after a little talk we got near them, exchanged presents, 
 and were soon friends. They seem glad we are going 
 to their home; they say peace will be arranged. 
 The Motumotu have said that if we only were to Adsit 
 them, they would gladly make peace. 
 
 It seems that they are very badly off for uros 
 (earthenware pots), and the native tribes along the 
 coast to the west of them are crying out and blaming 
 
196 
 
 PEA CE-MAKING. 
 
 them for the scarcity. They are certainly blaming the 
 right party ; but for Motumotu, the Pari, Vapukori, 
 Port Moresby, Boliapata, and Boera trading canoes 
 would all have been down the coast last season. The 
 principal man in the canoe, knowing that all, except 
 our boatman, Bob Samoa, had friends at Motumotu, 
 made friends with him, rubbing noses and handing his 
 lime gourd, winch is to be shown on arrival, and his 
 father and friends will receive Bob as his friends. They 
 go on to Lolo in quest of uros. 
 
 We landed to cook food. On awaking from a sleep, I 
 was astonished to find a crowd of natives close by, and 
 my friend the Kavari chief, Arana, sitting near me. 
 Two boys who were on the beach fishing, seeing us 
 land, ran inland and reported, and he, with two of his 
 wives carrying food, followed by men and women from 
 the villages, came down. His two wives are now busy 
 cooking, and he is trying to persuade me to call on our 
 return and get his present of sago and food. I could 
 not promise, and he seemed disappointed. 
 
 We left the Kaveri beach and pulled round Cape 
 Possession, passing close in by Oiapu. A heavy sea 
 was rolling in, and a canoe putting off to us was 
 swamped. People running along the beach called on 
 Piri and me by name to land and feast, but our crews 
 were too frightened, and we went on. When off Jokea, 
 men, women, and children all came on to the beach and 
 also by name begged of us to land. We would have 
 done so here, but the sea was too high, breaking with 
 great force on the fringing reef. Several canoes put off, 
 but only_one succeeded in reaching us. They begged of 
 us to call on our return, and let them know the result 
 of our visit, and said we had better also visit Lese. 
 
AN EXCITED CROWD. 
 
 197 
 
 They think our visit will put all straight. Motumotu, 
 they say, is very undecided as to what to do, but having 
 heard that I was to visit them, put off the decision for 
 some time, saying, ‘ If he comes, it will be all right, and 
 we shall have peace, but — ’ well, they did not know. 
 They rub noses all round, and make for the shore, we 
 for the harbour at the mouth of Coombes River, but a 
 very heavy sea running in, we prefer anchoring outside 
 at midnight. 
 
 By five A.M. up anchor and away to Lese. Two Naima 
 canoes returning from Lolo, where they had been trying 
 to get uros, passed close to us. They also are glad of the 
 likelihood of peace and uros. At seven we got to Lese, 
 and were met by an excited crowd, the majority armed. 
 We anchored a little out, and would allow no canoes 
 alongside. I called out for Eeka, and a very old man 
 walked into the sea, when I went ashore and took him 
 by the hand. Piri and his wife followed with part of 
 the crew and the Boera and Port Moresby chiefs. We 
 were led to the village, the crowd increasing as we went 
 along. Piri noticing an enclosed place, went in to see 
 what it was, and called me to have a look. I went in, 
 but no women or youths followed. Inside were two 
 large houses with rows of masks and hats, the latter like 
 small canoes about ten feet long, made with very light 
 wood and native cloth. On coming out I was seized 
 by the hand by an elderly man, who, in a towering 
 passion, drew me on. All I could make out was that 
 somebody was a thief and a liar. The Boera chief ran 
 up, and I asked him what was wrong. ‘ Oh, this is your 
 friend, Semese, the chief you gave the present to when 
 you were last here, and he is angry with Eeka for 
 taking you away.’ 
 
PEA CE-MA KING. 
 
 198 
 
 ‘ Tell Piri to come up quickly.’ 
 
 ‘ Piri, go with Eeka as your friend ; give him a 
 present as such ; it is all right. I go with Semese.’ 
 Soon squatting on the platform, wrath fled, and I had 
 to wait to be fed. 
 
 ‘ But, Semese, I want to press on to Motumotu and 
 see them. I am afraid of the weather coming in bad.’ 
 
 ‘ Motumotu to-morrow, Lese to-day ; you must have 
 a pig.’ 
 
 * Leave the pig for another visit.’ 
 
 All was of no avail. A fine large pig was speared, 
 brought and laid at my feet. Semese and the people 
 were in the very best humour. Eeka was delighted 
 with Piri, and the latter had a pig presented to him. 
 We gave our presents, and, feeling tired, I suggested to 
 our friends that we had better take the pigs to the other 
 side of the entrance, to Macey Lagoon. Semese is 
 quite agreeable, now the peace is made, and it was 
 arranged that he and his party should visit me with 
 sago at Port Moresby. Both pigs, ready for cooking, 
 were carried into the boat, and the excited crowd, this 
 time all unarmed, were on the shore to see us off. 
 They promised not to molest Kabadi again, and that 
 they considered our visit as peace with all the coast 
 villages. 
 
 Macey Lagoon would make a splendid harbour for 
 small vessels, very large vessels not being able to cross 
 the bar. On the eastern side a bank runs out for 
 nearly a mile, on which the sea breaks ; close in by 
 western shore is a good passage. The great work of the 
 day was feasting and sleeping. There were two Lese 
 men with us, and they said that the Motumotu have 
 have been talking of war, not of peace ; but now it may 
 
THE CONVERT HULA. 
 
 199 
 
 be different. To get into Motumotu in the morning, we 
 had come to within two miles of the village, and we 
 anchored off. Notwithstanding some anxiety, soon 
 all were asleep. The natives were astonished at the 
 beautiful weather, and said they felt as if all would be 
 right — the great and good Spirit who had led us so far 
 and safely would not leave us now or on the morrow. 
 At every meal on board or ashore they asked a blessing, 
 and our old friend Hula prayed with real earnest 
 feeling. He was certainly in earnest to-night when he 
 prayed for the Motumotuans, and that our visit might 
 be blessed to them. I was charmed with his simplicity, 
 fervour and expectancy. 
 
 This old man, a few weeks before, at the close of a 
 meeting at Port Moresby, said, addressing us : — 
 
 ‘ Listen, you think we Motumotuans are not attending 
 to your words ; but you are mistaken. Before you came 
 here, we were always fighting and were a terror to all, 
 east and west, but now it is different. We are at peace 
 all round ; we go about unarmed, and sleep well at night. 
 Soon our fathers’ ancient customs will be all given up, 
 and you will see us, old and young, coming to be taught 
 the word of the great and good Spirit.’ 
 
 I was aroused about two A.M. by shouting, and, looking 
 over the gunwale, saw a large double fighting canoe 
 alongside of Piri’s boat, in which all were sound asleep. 
 O11 awaking, they were startled by the appearance. 
 They were asked by those on the bridge — 
 
 ‘ Who are you ? ’ 
 
 1 Tamate and Piri going to Motumotu.’ 
 
 Soon all were friends, chewing betel-nut and smoking 
 tobacco. On each canoe with paddles were over thirty 
 men, and on the bridge adjoining the canoes were 
 
200 
 
 PEACE-MAKING. 
 
 armed men and a large supply of sago and betel-nuts. 
 They were going to Lese to purchase uros. They came 
 alongside of our boat, received and gave presents, and 
 then an order was given by one from the bridge, and 
 away they went at full speed. It was a pretty sight in 
 the moonlight to see the canoe move swiftly on, when 
 nearly eighty paddles as one touched the water. We 
 rolled ourselves up again for another hour or two’s 
 sleep. 
 
 At six a.m. we weighed anchor, and were off to Motu- 
 motu. There was a great crowd on the beach ; but it 
 was all right, as boys and girls were to be seen there, as 
 noisy as the grown-up folks. A chief rushed into the 
 water and called on us to come. ‘ Come, with peace 
 from afar ; come, friends, and you will meet us as friends.’ 
 We went round and entered the river in deep water, 
 close to eastern bank near to the village. Until we 
 had a talk, I would allow none but Piri’s friend and my 
 friends, Semese and Rahe, near the boats. They had 
 been told that we were going to fight if they visited us, 
 and that all women and children were to be sent back 
 to the Keiari, and the Keiari fighting men were to be 
 in league with all the foreigners about. Then they 
 heard that I had been murdered, and were terribly sorry ; 
 but now they saw I was alive, and had come a long 
 way in a ‘ moon ’ in which neither they nor their fore- 
 fathers had ever travelled. So now they must make 
 peace. 
 
 I said, ‘ You must not again go near Kabadi, and all 
 along the coast we must have peace.’ 
 
 ‘ It is right, we shall not again visit Kabadi. Lealea 
 feasted us with pigs, and pressed us to attack Kabadi, to 
 pay off an old attack on them. It suited us, because 
 
BLOWING THE WAR HORN. 
 
 201 
 
 Kabadi thought themselves strong ; but now it is 
 peace.’ 
 
 I landed with them and went up through the villages, 
 then returning to the boats we were told to remain 
 there. Shortly three pigs were brought, and our return 
 presents of uros, &c., were carried off. Bob’s calabash 
 has brought him a host of friends. Piri is with his 
 friends at one end of the village, and in the opposite I 
 am to reside in my friend Balie’s dubu. Semese is his 
 father, and a very old man. The number of old men 
 and old women and children is astonishing. 
 
 No enemy dare come near their villages, and their 
 houses have never been burnt down. The Boera chief 
 — a capital fellow to have — speaks this dialect very 
 fluently. Our people at first were very much afraid, 
 but soon settled down, and are now roving about. 
 
 Suddenly the war horn was heard blowing — not the 
 pig horn, so often heard on the coast. I wondered what 
 was up, but it turned out to be only the youths training. 
 Two new double canoes came down the river with large 
 complements of paddles, all young lads gaily dressed. 
 A number of young men painted and extravagantly 
 dressed have been here ; they lately killed some Move- 
 avans, and are hence greatly admired by old and young. 
 
 I had to take off my boots and socks, and allow my 
 feet to be admired, also to show off my chest. All 
 shout with delight, and every new arrival must have a 
 look. The sun was frightfully hot. Some men were 
 fishing on the breakers ; they had a long post with a 
 cross-bar, on which they stand, fixed in the sand, head 
 covered with native cloth, and bow and arrow ready. 
 
 A number of people came in from Vailala. They 
 wish I would go down with them, but it is too late to 
 
202 
 
 PEA CE-MA KING. 
 
 go so far in an open boat. I have had another meeting 
 with the leading men, and I think all is now peace. 
 My friend Eahe seems a great personage with relatives 
 innumerable. He wants to know if I would like to be 
 alone in the dubu ; only say it, and all the men will 
 leave. I prefer them remaining, and I will make 
 myself comfortable on the front platform. 
 
 In the evening men and women — I suppose they 
 would say ‘ elegantly dressed ’ — bodies besmeared with 
 red pigment, croton and draccena leaves, and feathers 
 of various birds fixed on head, arms and legs, paraded 
 the villages. At present all move about armed, and 
 in this establishment bows, bent and unbent, and 
 bundles of arrows are on all sides. 
 
 Eahe has just been to me to ask for boat medicine. 
 
 ‘ What do you mean, Eahe ? ’ 
 
 ‘ I want you to give me some of that medicine you 
 use to make your boat sail.’ 
 
 ‘ I use no medicine, only Motu strong arms.’ 
 
 ‘You could never have come along now without 
 medicine.’ 
 
 ‘We use no medicine, and have come along well.’ 
 
 I had a splendid night’s rest. My mosquito net and 
 blanket caused great amusement. My attendants are 
 innumerable and attentive, and will allow no noise near. 
 Our service in the morning was very noisy — everybody 
 anxious for quiet must needs tell his neighbour to be 
 quiet. Our old Port Moresby chief prayed in the 
 Motumotu dialect. The Boera chief translated for Piri 
 and me. They are very anxious to know of the resur- 
 rection and where Beritane spirits go after death. 
 
 In the afternoon we held service in the main street. 
 The singing attracted a very large and noisy crowd, but 
 
EXHORTATIONS TO PEACE. 
 
 203 
 
 when our old friend began to pray it was as if a bomb- 
 shell bad exploded, men, women and children running 
 as for dear life to their home. Another hymn brought 
 them hack armed and unarmed. We had a long talk 
 on peace, and they wished I would go with them to 
 Moveave, and make peace. One division of these 
 villages they have simply wiped out. I asked them to 
 leave Moveave alone, and when a fit season comes I 
 will ascend the river with them, and make peace. 
 
 I have visited the party who last week killed several 
 of the Moveavans, and they promised not to attack 
 them again. The Ivaback jewellery is about in 
 abundance. 
 
 Semese spoke nearly all the night through, exhorting 
 all to peace, and that now we had visited them they 
 ought no more to go about exalting themselves, fighting 
 with their neighbours, and speaking evil of their friends, 
 the Motuans. Eahe has brought his son, whom he has 
 named Tamate. I have no doubt he will be an expensive 
 honour. 
 
 We went up the William River to-day. At mouth, 
 on the west side, are two islands, viz., Iriho and 
 Biaveveka. Between the latter and the mainland is an 
 entrance into Alice Meade Harbour. The river is broad 
 and deep. Both banks are lined with sago palms. 
 
 When a young man marries a young woman, the 
 custom here is to pay nothing for her ; but for a widow 
 something very great. The people live chiefly on sago. 
 Sago is cooked with shell fish, boiled with bananas, 
 roasted on stones, baked in the ashes, tied up in leaves, 
 and many other ways. We have received large presents 
 of sago, both boats bearing as much as is safe to carry. 
 We leave in the morning. At present a man is going 
 
204 
 
 PEA CE-M A KING. 
 
 through the streets in great wrath, having been to his 
 plantation and missed a bunch of bananas. As he 
 moves along he shouts out his loss, and challenges the 
 thief. 
 
 We had a gathering of old men until late into the 
 night, and they closed with a wail, chanted, with drums 
 keeping time. Hours before daylight Semese was up, 
 waiting for me to turn out. 
 
 We had a fine run back to Yule, where, at sunset, 
 we were met by a terrific gale of wind and a thunder- 
 storm. We had to put in close to the land, and for 
 four hours sit it out in a deluge of rain. It was soon 
 inky dark, the lightning very vivid, and the thunder 
 deafening. Piri’s boat anchored close alongside. On 
 the weather clearing up a little we crossed Hall Sound 
 to Delena, where we were soon met by natives carry- 
 ing torches, and were led to their houses. A change of 
 clothing, and we were all as comfortable as possible. 
 
 We spent the hour of midnight with Kone and 
 Levas, chiefs of Delena, telling them of our visit to the 
 west, and its success in establishing peace. They were 
 greatly delighted, and will do me the honour of visiting 
 me at Port Moresby, that is, will relieve me of some 
 tomahawks. With a light wind and a smooth sea, we 
 had a pleasant run to Boera, where we arrived at sunset. 
 There was great joy in the village at our arrival. 
 
 We reached Port Moresby on the 20th, and on 
 March 6th we baptized Kohu and Kahela, the first two 
 women of New Guinea converted to Christianity. May 
 they be kept as true ministering women for Christ ! 
 
( =05 ) 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 THE KALO MASSACRE. 
 
 Twelve teachers and their friends killed at Kalo in 1881 — The 
 warning — The massacre — The fear for the teachers at Koma — 
 Mr. Chalmers’ views on the question — Voyage westwards in the 
 Mayri — A Sunday at Delena — Visit of Queen Koloka — 
 Threatened attack by Lolo natives — The fight — Peace — Miria’s 
 village — Bad character of the Motu natives— Visit to the chief 
 of Motu Lavao — Story of Dr. Thorngren’s murder — Peace made 
 with the village. 
 
 On the 7th of March 1881, the natives of Kalo, a 
 village at the head of Hood Bay, near the mouth of the 
 Kemp Welch River, massacred their teacher, Anederea, 
 with his wife and two children ; also Materua, teacher 
 of Kerepunu, his wife and two children ; Taria, teacher 
 of Hula ; Matatuhi, an inland teacher ; and two Hula 
 boys — in all, twelve persons. 
 
 The earliest news of the tragedy was given in the 
 following letter from the Rev. T. Beswick, dated 
 Thursday Island, Torres Straits, March 24th : — 
 
 On Friday, the 4tli inst., Taria, our Hula teacher, left 
 Port Moresby with Matatuhi, an inland teacher, the 
 latter wishing to visit the Kalo teacher for some native 
 medicine. Reaching Hula on the evening of the 4tli, 
 Taria heard a rumour that the Kalo people intended to 
 kill their teacher and his family. Accordingly he went 
 thither the following day, along with Matatuhi, and 
 
206 
 
 THE HALO MASS A CEE. 
 
 requested the Kalo teacher and his family to leave at 
 once. The teacher refused to place credence in the 
 rumour, and even questioned his chief and pretended 
 friend, who assured him that there was not the slightest 
 grain of truth in the rumour. 
 
 The Hula teacher returned, leaving Matatuhi behind. 
 On Monday, the 7th, Taria, along with five Hula boys, 
 proceeded in a boat to Kalo and Kerepunu, with the 
 view of bringing the teachers and their families to 
 Hula, on account of the ill-health of some of the party. 
 He called at Kalo on the way thither, and apprised the 
 teacher of his intention to call on the return journey. 
 At Kerepunu he took on board the teacher, his wife 
 and two children, and one native youth. The party 
 then proceeded to Kalo. During the interval of waiting 
 there the chief and pretended friend of the Kalo teacher 
 got into the boat for a chat. On the arrival of Matatuhi 
 and the Kalo teacher, along with his wife and two 
 children, the chief stepped out of the boat. This was 
 the pre-arranged signal for attack to the crowds as- 
 sembled on the bank. At the outset the chief warned 
 his followers not to injure the Hula and Kerepunu 
 boys ; but such precaution did not prevent two of the 
 former being killed. The other four boys escaped by 
 swimming the river. The mission party were so cooped 
 up in the boat, and spears flew so thickly and fast, as 
 to render resistance futile, and escape impossible. Taria 
 resisted for a time, but a fourth spear put an end to his 
 resistance. The others were dispatched with little 
 trouble. A single spear slew both mother and babe in 
 the case of both women. The only bodies recovered 
 were those of the Kerepunu teacher’s wife and her babe ; 
 the natives of Hula and Kerepunu severally interred 
 
ALARM CAUSED BY THE NEWS. 
 
 207 
 
 the two bodies. The rest of the bodies became a prey 
 to the alligators. For the two Hula boys who were 
 slain speedy compensation was made by the Kalo 
 people. The whale-boat, too, was recovered by the 
 Hula natives. 
 
 The above sad intelligence reached Port Moresby at 
 early morn of the 11th, just as the Harriet was about 
 to leave for Thursday Island, and the Mayri about to 
 take me to Hula, whilst a party of foreigners were 
 leaving for the East End. The news, of course, upset 
 all arrangements, and, after the first moments of 
 excitement were over, our next concern was about the 
 safety of the two Aroma teachers. With as little delay 
 as possible, hut with groundless forebodings of coming 
 evil, a large party of us left for Aroma. About ten a.m. 
 of the 14th, we reached there, and whilst our three 
 boats lay off a little, so as not to arouse suspicion, a 
 teacher and myself went ashore. With devout gratitude 
 I heard that both teachers and natives were ignorant 
 of the massacre. In less than an hour the two teachers 
 and their families were safely ensconced in their whale- 
 boat, taking along with them but a minimum of their 
 property, according to the orders given. By these 
 means the chiefs and natives of Aroma were left in 
 utter ignorance as to the cause of our erratic move- 
 ments, nor did they seem to suspect anything. 
 
 At Kerepunu we experienced considerable noise and 
 worry. Here, too, we judged it prudent to remove 
 very little belonging to the deceased teacher. At Hula 
 my house had been entered, but the few things stolen 
 were mostly returned. Here, too, we have left goods, 
 until some definite course be decided upon. Strange 
 to say, at Hula, where we expected the least trouble 
 
:o3 
 
 THE HALO MASSACRE. 
 
 and danger, there we had the greatest ; indeed, on one 
 or two occasions affairs assumed a rather serious aspect. 
 The main idea present in the native mind was to take 
 advantage of us in our weakness and sorrow. After a 
 very brief stay at Hula, we left there on the 15th, 
 
 A HULA GIRL. 
 
 reaching Port Moresby the following day ; and on the 
 17th I left for Thursday Island. 
 
 The natives of Hood Bay attribute this massacre to 
 the influence of Ivoapina, the Aroma chief, he having 
 assured the Kalo people that foreigners might be 
 massacred with impunity, citing as an illustration the 
 massacre at Aroma last July, and pointing out at the 
 
PROBABLE CAUSE OF THE MASSACRE. 209 
 
 same time the great fame that had thereby accrued to 
 his own people. The Kalo people have not been 
 slow in acting upon his advice. I visited Hula and 
 Kerepunu within six weeks of the massacre, and 
 was so impressed with the peaceful bearing of the 
 people in both places that I should have been glad to 
 have re-occupied both stations immediately. 
 
 I should have visited Kalo, but was afraid of 
 compromising the mission, as it is possible the 
 natives may be punished for the outrage. I fear we 
 are not altogether free from blame ; the teachers are 
 often very indiscreet in their dealings with the natives, 
 and not over-careful in what they say ; there has also, 
 perhaps, sometimes been a niggard regard to expense on 
 our part. A very few pounds spent at a station like 
 Kalo in the first years would, I believe, prevent much 
 trouble, and probably murder. The Kalo natives felt 
 that Hula and Kerepunu got the most tobacco and 
 tomahawks, and that their share was small indeed. 
 Instead of our buying all the thatch required for the 
 other stations — only obtainable at Kalo — we got the 
 teachers, with their boys, to get it. We meant it well, 
 to save expense. My experience teaches me to throw 
 all I can in the way of natives not connected with our 
 head station. At this station — Port Moresby — for the 
 next few years the expenses will be considerable in 
 buildings, laying out the land, and in presents to the 
 constant stream of visitors ; but it will have a 
 Christianising and a civilising effect upon a large extent 
 of country. 
 
 On the 24th of May, 1881, left Port Moresby in the 
 Mayri, and, having taken on board four natives at 
 Boera, continued a westerly course, anchoring next day 
 
 p 
 
210 
 
 THE KALO MASSACRE. 
 
 in Hall Sound, opposite Helena. Early on the morning 
 of May 26th, Ivone and Lavao, our old friends, came off. 
 They say it is useless going to Maiva, as we cannot 
 land ; hut we can go and see for ourselves, and they 
 will accompany us. I had to land to eat pigs, i.e., 
 receive pigs and hand them over to my followers. On 
 landing, they led me up the hill at the back of village, 
 where 1 was astonished to find a fine tract of land 
 forming a splendid position for a house. Kone at once 
 offered me as much land as I wanted. After thinking 
 it over on hoard, I decided on building. I landed tents 
 and pitched them on the rise above the village. My 
 experience is that places quite exposed to south-east wind 
 are more unhealthy than swampy country. On Rarotonga 
 there were more deaths on the windward side of the 
 island than on the leeward. 
 
 On the Sunday after landing we went down and had 
 service in the village. Kone interpreted into Lolo. 
 When telling the people we had no work for them on 
 Sunday, Kone said : ‘ Oh ! we know, and we, too, are 
 going to be helaha (sacred) to-morrow.’ I asked him, 
 ‘ Come, Kone, how do you know ? ’ ‘ From Boera.’ 
 
 I met a lad repeating the Lord’s Prayer in Motu, and 
 found he had been taught by Piri. The Motu tribe has 
 already had great influence, and will have more and 
 more every year. I have an interesting class of children, 
 and hope, before we leave, they will know their letters 
 well. 
 
 What nonsense one could write of the reception here 
 — such as ‘ Everybody at service this morning listened 
 attentively ; commented on address or conversation ; 
 children all come to school, so intelligent, and seemingly 
 anxious to learn ; and, altogether, prospects are bright.’ 
 
GIVING PRESENTS TO KOLOKA. 
 
 211 
 
 At home they would say, why, they are being con- 
 verted ; see the speedy triumph ! Alas ! they are hut 
 savages, pure and simple, rejoicing in the prospect 
 of an unlimited supply of tobacco, beads, and toma- 
 hawks. 
 
 Paura, a chief from Motu Lavao, is in. The people, 
 it seems, told him, being hclaka day, I could not meet 
 him, and he did not come up-hill. He is rather a nice- 
 looking fellow, with a mild, open countenance. Kone 
 told him to tell the Paitana natives, who murdered 
 James and Thorngren, that, if they wished peace and 
 friendship, they must come in here and sue for it ; that 
 I could not first go to them, as they were the offenders 
 and murderers. 
 
 Arrangements were at once made for erecting a 
 wooden house at Delena, measuring 3G feet by 18 feet, 
 material for which was easily procurable. On the 
 30th of May, Queen Koloka, her husband, and a number 
 of men and women came in. The Prince Consort first 
 came up, all over smiles, followed in half-an-hour by 
 his wife and maids. After formally receiving her, I 
 presented Mrs. Lawes’ present. I unloosed the parcel, 
 and turned maid-of-honour in real waiting. Her 
 Majesty was chewing betel-nut, hut that did not 
 prevent my putting the dress on ; first attempt all 
 wrong, the front became the hack, and the back the 
 front. At length I succeeded, and, after fastening the 
 dress, tied a pretty kerchief round the royal neck. 
 There was great excitement, in every mouth a thumb, 
 a few moments of silence, and then every soul spoke 
 and shouted.. It was amusing to see her husband, 
 uncles, maids, old men and women, young men and 
 maidens, gather round the royal presence,, wonder and 
 
212 
 
 THE KALO MASSACRE. 
 
 admire, and then shout, Oh misi haine 0 ! (Mrs. 
 Lawes). Ah, Koloka, I wonder how you are going to get 
 out of that dress to-night ; will you understand buttons, 
 hooks, and eyes ? 
 
 During my stay at Delena, one of those warlike 
 incursions by hostile tribes so common in New Guinea 
 took place. My presence and influence happily brought 
 about an early and satisfactory settlement of the 
 dispute. I extract the following from my journal : — 
 
 June 2nd . — Our friends seem troubled, and their 
 house-building earnestness is somewhat abated. I find 
 they have heard that the Lolo tribe intend making a 
 raid on them. Is it on them, or on us ? Their great 
 hope is that we shall use our guns, and so frighten the 
 invaders. I tell them that we cannot do this ; that 
 we are men of peace, and have no wish to frighten 
 any one. It seems Maiva is very disturbed ; they are 
 fighting all round, avenging Oa’s death, and may soon 
 be expected here. Maiva would not interfere with us, 
 but Lolo I would not trust. 
 
 We shall have to keep a good look-out to-night. 
 Our friends seem very troubled and excited. I have 
 given warning that any one coming near our camp must 
 call out my name and his or her own. No one can 
 come near without our knowing, as my terrier ITora is 
 a splendid watch-dog. This evening some women 
 passed camp, carrying their valuables to hide away in 
 the bush. Bob asks, ‘ Suppose Lolo natives come to us, 
 what we do ? ’ ‘ Of course they will not come near to 
 
 us unless they mean to attack, and then we must 
 defend ourselves.’ The guns are ready. It is not 
 pleasant ; but I fancy they will not molest us, so hope 
 to sleep well, knowing we are well cared for by Him 
 
FIGHT BETWEEN LOLO AND D ELEN A. 213 
 
 who is never far off. Through much trouble we get 
 to be known, and the purpose for which we come is 
 understood. 
 
 3rd . — Last night I slept lightly, with Flora on watch, 
 and Bob easily aroused. After midnight he kept watch. 
 We placed the lights beyond tents on each side, and 
 so arranged that the light would strike on any native 
 nearing camp. About two a.m. Lavao’s wife No. 2 came 
 up with her grandchild, goods, and chattels for safety. 
 The Loloans were coming. All right ; all ready. Very 
 loud, noisy talking in village. At four we called out 
 for Kone, who came up telling us that we should be 
 first disposed of, then Deleua. I went to the village, 
 and saw the old friendly chief from Lavao. I told him 
 any Loloan coming over the brow of the hill with 
 weapons we should consider as coming to fight, and we 
 were ready. At five, women and children crowded into 
 camp, with all their belongings, and asked for protection. 
 Certainly ; we shall do what we can for them. Men 
 are running all about, planting arms in convenient 
 places in the bush. We are told to keep a good look- 
 out — and that we shall. It is now daylight, so we do 
 not care much. The fight has begun in the village. 
 Some Loloans, running after Delena natives, rush up- 
 hill ; we warn them back, and they retire. There is a 
 loud shout for us to go to the village and fight. I leave 
 Bob with guns and cartridges to keep watch over camp. 
 I have more confidence in the skirmish unarmed, and 
 have no wish for the savages to think I have come to 
 fight. I shout out Maino, and soon there is a hush in 
 the terrible storm. I am allowed to walk through the 
 village, disarm one or two, and, on my return to our 
 friend Kone’s end of the village, he whispers to me, 
 
214 
 
 THE HALO MASSACRE. 
 
 ‘ There is Arua,’ understanding him to mean the chief, 
 or vcita tauna (sorcerer). I recognise in him the man 
 introduced to me on a former visit, and who in wrath 
 cleared out from my presence. Now might be his time 
 to pay me out. I take his weapons from him, link him 
 on to me, and walk him up the hill. I speak kindly to 
 him, show him flag, and tell him we are mctino, and 
 warn him that his people must on no account ascend 
 the hill. All right, he will stop the fighting. I sit 
 down to write this, when again they rush up for me, 
 saying Ivone was to be killed. Leaving Bob with arms 
 in charge, I go down to the village, and without my 
 hat. More canoes have arrived. What a crowd of 
 painted fiends ! I get surrounded, and have no way of 
 escape. Sticks and spears rattle round. I get a knock 
 on the head, and a piece of stick falls on my hand. 
 My old Lavao friend gets hold of me and walks me to 
 outskirt. Arua and Lauma of Lolo assure me they will 
 not ascend the hill, and we had better not interfere 
 with them. ‘ Bight, friend ; but you must stop, and on 
 no account injure my friend Ivone.’ It would frighten 
 them were we to go armed to the village ; but then we 
 dare not stay here twenty -four hours after. I can do 
 more for the natives unarmed. I am glad I am able to 
 mix with both parties ; it shows they mean us no harm, 
 and speaks well for the future. 
 
 No one was killed, but several were severely 
 wounded, and a few houses destroyed. They have made 
 peace at last, and I have had a meeting in the village 
 with all ; the Loloans have promised to be quiet. 
 I told them we could not stay if they were to be 
 constantly threatening. In the afternoon the chiefs 
 came up, and I promised to visit them all. My head 
 
NEW GUINEA WEAPONS AND ORNAMENTS. 
 
A SUN DA Y SERVICE. 
 
 217 
 
 aches a little. Had I been killed, I alone should have 
 been to blame, and not the natives. The Delena 
 natives say : ‘ Well, Tamate, had you not been here 
 many of us would have been killed, and the remainder 
 gone to Naara, never to return.’ There is some pleasure 
 in being of a little use even to savages. 
 
 The next Sunday we had a splendid service. All 
 the young fellows dressed for it by painting their faces. 
 It was amusing and interesting to hear them interpret 
 all I said from Motuan into Loloan ; and when I 
 attempted to use a Lolo word, they corrected me if 
 I wrongly pronounced or misplaced it. After service 
 we had all the children and young men to school. A 
 goodly number have got a pretty fair hold of letters. 
 Some would beat native cloth, and Kone grew very 
 angry, and, because they would not listen to him, 
 threatened to pull up his recently buried child. I sent 
 word that he must on no account do that, and must say 
 no more to the men beating cloth ; that by-and-by the 
 people will become enlightened, and then they will 
 understand the Sabbath. Poor Kone’s idea is that now 
 and at once they should understand. 
 
 On June 6th, I once more left Delena to proceed to 
 Maiva, and, although a heavy sea was running at the 
 time, landed safely about eleven A.M. at Miria’s village, 
 on the Maiva coast. I saw a number of people with 
 karevas (long fighting sticks), and wondered what was 
 the matter. I said to my old friend Eua, who met me 
 on the beach, ‘ Are you going to fight ? ’ ‘ No, no ; it is 
 
 all right now.’ I gave him a large axe for Meauri and 
 party to cut wood for a house at their village. Meauri 
 and a number of followers soon made their appearance : 
 it seemed strange that they should have come down so 
 
2 1 8 
 
 THE HALO MASSACRE. 
 
 soon. Miria, the chief, being away cutting wood, went 
 to Meauri’s village, passing through several seaside 
 villages. We selected a new position for the house, at 
 the hack of a large temple ; gave them tobacco and red 
 cloth, they promising gladly to have wood cut against 
 my next return. Sitting on the platform, Rua turned 
 to me and asked, * Tamate, who is your real Maiva 
 friend ? ’ Fancying there was trouble, I replied, ‘ Oa 
 Maoni, who sleeps in that house in death, was my 
 friend : Meauri, Rua, Paru, and Aua are now my 
 friends.’ ‘ I thought so, and Miria has no business to 
 build a house for you. Before we saw the boat we were 
 down on the beach at Miria’s village to begin a quarrel ; 
 we saw you were coming, and we waited for you.’ 
 ‘ But I want a house on the coast as well as inland ; 
 Miria’s village is small and too exposed, and I must 
 look for another place.’ ‘ That is all right, but this 
 first.’ ‘ Be it so.’ After visiting three villages I had 
 not seen before, and going through all the inland ones, 
 I returned to Miria’s village ; he not having returned, 
 I went along to Ereere. After dark, Miria came in. 
 He felt sorry when I told him I could not put a house 
 up in his place, owing to its being exposed to south-east 
 wind, and to there not being many people. ‘ But I have 
 cut the wood.’ ‘ I shall pay you for that, and the wood 
 can remain for my return.’ I gave him tobacco for the 
 young men and a present to himself, and all was right. 
 
 A few mornings later, I found the natives sitting 
 round rice ; one said, ‘ Come, we are waiting for you to 
 bless the food.’ They have seen our boats’ crews of 
 Botu and Boera natives always asking a blessing. I 
 said to them, ‘Cannot one of you ask a blessing?’ 
 ‘ No ; wait until we learn, and you will see.’ A good 
 
CHRISTIAN NA TIVES. 
 
 219 
 
 story is told by the captain of the Mayri. On their 
 coins: to Aroma to relieve the teachers after the Kalo 
 massacre, in the early morning they were pulling along 
 the reef, and just as the sun appeared over the 
 mountains, one of the Motu crew called on all to be 
 quiet, rowers to lean on their oars, and then engaged in 
 prayer, thanking God for watching over them during 
 the night, and praying that He would care for them 
 during the day, and that no unpleasantness might occur 
 with the Aroma natives. Ail along this coast, and 
 right away down to Elema as far as Bald Head, the 
 Motu tribe has a wonderful iufluence, and in a few 
 years excellent pioneers may be had from it. They 
 must have been a terrible lot in the past. I have heard 
 much from themselves of piracy, murder, and robbery, 
 and all along here they tell terrible tales. A Motu 
 chief in one of our meetings, speaking of the past and 
 the present, concluded by saying : ‘ Since the arrival of 
 the foreigners (teachers), we have changed, and will 
 continue to change.’ 
 
 An old chief, Aiio, from the Mekeo district, came in 
 to see me, and brought me as a present a splendid head- 
 dress, which is hung up by Kone in front of the tent 
 for all to see. On giving him a present of salt, it was 
 pleasant to see the old fellow’s expression of pleasure. 
 He is anxious I should go inland as soon as possible ; I 
 tell him I must wait for tomahawks. 
 
 At seven o’clock on the morninc of the 13th of June, 
 I started to visit Madu, the chief of the Motu Lavao. 
 We went up from the bight, a large salt-water creek 
 with dense mangrove on both banks, — a veritable bed of 
 fever, — and anchoring our boats, we walked through the 
 deserted village of Paitana and on for about a mile and 
 
220 
 
 THE KALO MASSACRE. 
 
 a half to Motu Lavao. The path leads along a narrow 
 tract of good country, with dense swamps on both sides. 
 The village is large, with good houses kept nice and 
 clean ; but I can conceive of no more unhealthy locality 
 — swamp all around. A number of people were down 
 with fever, some in their houses, others lying exposed 
 to the sun. I asked them if they had no vatavata 
 (spirits) knocking around in their district, and did they 
 not much trouble them. ‘ Oh, trouble us much, very 
 much.’ I told them I thought so, and the sooner they 
 removed from that place the better — that they were right 
 in the centre of sickness and death. They said, ‘ And 
 what is to become of the place of our forefathers, and 
 the cocoanuts they planted ? ’ * Better leave them, or 
 
 in a short time there will be none left to remember 
 their forefathers, or eat their cocoanuts.’ Madu was in 
 the country, and we waited his return. He tried hard 
 to get me to stay over-night, but it was of no use. He 
 presented me with a pig and feathers, and we concluded 
 friendship by my giving a return present. An old 
 woman was presented to me, a great sorceress ; but, not 
 liking the sisterhood, I did not see my way clear to give 
 her a present. Such as she keep the natives in constant 
 fear, do what they like, and get what they like. It is 
 affirmed by all that the great Lolo sorcerer, Arua, keeps 
 snakes in bamboos, and uses them for his nefarious 
 purposes. Late in the afternoon we left, accompanied 
 by Madu and a number of youths carrying pig, cocoa- 
 nuts, and sugar-cane. When leaving, the chief said, 
 ‘ Go, Tamate ; we are friends.’ 
 
 On June 14th, I had a long conference with the 
 old Paitana chief, Boutu, and his followers. They 
 looked very much excited and alarmed when I met 
 
MURDER OF JAMES AND THORNGREN. 221 
 
 them, but that wore away during our conversation. 
 Boutu, his party, and other Lolo natives assured me 
 that the attack on Dr. James and Mr. Thorngren was 
 imknown to all but those in the canoe. The excuse 
 was that the day before they were trading on Yule 
 Island one young man had feathers for sale. Dr. James 
 and Waunaea told him to leave ; they would not take 
 his feathers because he objected to the pearl shell 
 produced. This, they say, was the beginning. He tried 
 very hard to sell his feathers, and, if possible, get a 
 tomahawk. Failing, he went home, quietly arranged a 
 party, slept in the bush, and before daylight went off to 
 the vessel. On nearing the vessel, Dr. James called 
 out — ‘ You must not come alongside : you are coming 
 to kill me.’ They said, ‘We are not going to kill you, 
 but want to sell yams.’ The yams were taken on 
 board, and whilst Dr. James was counting the beads to 
 pay for them he was struck with a club, and afterwards 
 speared, but not quite disabled, as he drew his revolver 
 and shot the man who attacked him. Mr. Thorngren 
 was struck at from aft, fell overboard, and was never 
 again seen. They say, when the people in the village 
 heard of it, they were very sorry, and that ever since 
 they have been looked upon with anger, as they have 
 been the cause of keeping the white man away with his 
 tobacco, beads, and tomahawks. I asked them, ‘ What 
 now ? ’ ‘ Let us make friends, and never again have the 
 like.’ ‘ But your young men could do the same again 
 without your knowing.’ ‘ They know better than try 
 it again ; they are too much afraid ; and they see that 
 what was then done has greatly injured us as well as 
 all the other villages.’ I explained to them the object 
 of our coming here, and that they must not think we 
 
222 
 
 THE HALO MASS A CEE. 
 
 are to buy everything they bring, and must not be 
 angry when we refuse to give what they demand. We 
 do not come to steal their food or curios, and, if we do 
 not want them, they can carry all back ; we are not 
 traders. After praying with them, they said, ‘ Tamate, 
 now let it be friendship ; give up your intention of 
 going to Mekeo (inland district), and come to-morrow, 
 and we shall make friends and peace.’ ‘ I shall go ; 
 but suppose the mother of the young man who was 
 shot begins wailing, what then ? ’ ‘ She will doubtless 
 
 wail, but you need not fear ; come, and you will see.’ 
 
 £ Then to-morrow I shall go.’ 
 
 Next morning, the Mayri having arrived the evening 
 before, I carried into effect the intended visit. The chief 
 of Paitana and two followers, with my friend Lauma, 
 of Lolo, waited to accompany me. After -breakfast we 
 got into the boat, Lavao in charge. We entered the 
 same creek as for Motu Lavao, and when up it some 
 distance turned up another to the right, too narrow to 
 use oars. When two miles up we anchored boat, then 
 walked or waded for two miles through swamp and 
 long grass. When near the village we heard loud 
 wailing, and Lavao, who was leading, thought it better 
 we should wait for the old chief, who was some 
 distance behind. On coming up they spoke in Lolo, 
 then threw down his club, calling on one of his followers 
 to pick it up. He went in front, and called on me 
 to follow close to him, the others coming after; and 
 so we marched into the village and up on to his plat- 
 form. Then began speechifying, presenting cooked food, 
 betel-nuts, pig, and feathers. When all was finished I 
 gave my present, and said a few words in the Motu 
 dialect. The uncle of the man shot by I)r. James came 
 
PEACE WITH THE MURDERERS. 
 
 on to the platform, caught me hy the arm and shouted, 
 Mciino ! (Peace), saying that they, the chiefs, knew 
 nothing of the attack. The murderers lived at the 
 other end of the village ; and thither, accompanied hy 
 a large party, I went. They gave me a pig, and I gave 
 them a return present. The real murderer of Mr. 
 Thorngren sat near me, dressed for the occasion, and 
 four others who were in the canoe stood near the 
 platform. The mother and two widows were in the 
 house opposite, hut with good sense refrained from 
 wailing. I spoke to them of the meanness and treachery 
 of attacking as they attacked Dr. James and Mr. Thorn- 
 gren. They say there were ten in the canoe — one was 
 shot, three have since died, and six remain. They also 
 say they feel they have done wrong, as they not only 
 made the foreigners their enemies, but also all the 
 tribes around were angry with them. ‘ What now, 
 then ? ’ ‘ Oh, maino (peace) it must be ; we are friends, 
 and so are all foreigners now.’ ‘ I am not a trader, 
 but have come to teach about the only one true God and 
 His love to us all in the gift of His Son Jesus Christ, 
 to proclaim peace between man and man, and tribe and 
 tribe.’ What seemed to astonish them most was my 
 being alone and unarmed. After some time our old 
 friend came from the other end of the village and 
 hurried us away. It was time to leave them, so, giving 
 a few parting presents, we picked up our goods and 
 away to the boat. 
 
( 224 ) 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 A TRIP TO ELEMA. 
 
 The death of Kone — Kerema — Vailala — Talks with the natives — 
 Temples — A dangerous landing — Visits to Motu villages — 
 Christian work among the natives — Haru — Native gods — Trip 
 up the Annie River. 
 
 On October 24th, 1881, we left Port Moresby in the 
 Mayri with a good breeze, and were soon at Boera, 
 where, after an hour’s trading for earthenware pots to 
 take west, for which we would receive sago in return, 
 I took fifty on board, and set sail for Delena, to get my 
 boat for river work, and take my friend Kone with me, 
 he being well known, and liked all along the Gulf coast 
 to Bald Head. 
 
 We anchored next morning about three miles from 
 Delena, and at daylight ran down to the anchorage off 
 the village. Very soon we saw the boat coming, Lavao 
 standing up aft, and several of the men with native 
 cloth on their heads for mourning. I missed Kone, 
 and anxiously waited for them to come alongside. As 
 they neared, there was no loud talking, and all looked 
 sorrowful. Lavao stepped on board, and I asked, 
 
 ‘ Where is Kone ? ’ After a time he said, ‘ Oh, Tamate, 
 Kone, your friend, is dead.’ 
 
 ‘ Dead, Lavao ? ’ I had to sit down. 
 
 ‘Yes, Kone is dead, and we buried him on your 
 
DBA TH OF KONE. 
 
 225 
 
 ground, near your house ; the house of his one great 
 friend.’ 
 
 ‘ Did Kone die of sickness ? ’ 
 
 ‘ No ; lie was speared by your friend Laonia. After 
 you left, there was a feast at Delena. Kone and others 
 were there, also some Naara natives. At night, Laonia 
 came with his spears to kill a Naara man, and when 
 about to throw a spear, Kone caught the Naara man 
 and placed him behind him, the spear entering his own 
 breast. We carried him home, and on the second moon 
 he died.’ 
 
 My poor Kone ! The kindliest savage I have ever 
 met ; how I shall miss you here ! I had hoped that 
 you would yet become a great help in introducing the 
 Gospel into the Gulf, and now had called to take you 
 with me. How anxious he was to be taught, and to 
 know how to pray ! I taught him to say, ‘ God of 
 love, give me light ; lead me to Christ.’ Who will deny 
 that my wind- and rain-making friend lias passed 
 from this darkness into the light that he prayed for ? 
 
 After breakfast I landed, and found the house just as 
 we left it — hammocks swung underneath, and small 
 houses all about. Where I pitched my tent on my 
 first visit there they had built a good-sized house, in 
 which the body was buried. I entered, and found Kaia, 
 Kone’s widow, enveloped in cloth. She began wailing 
 and cutting her head with a shell held in her right 
 hand, the blood flowing freely, and would certainly have 
 done herself much harm, had I not interfered. I do 
 feel sorry for her ; but what could I say to comfort 
 her ? I did not think it out of place to pray, sitting 
 on that grave, whilst for a little the loud wailing was 
 hushed. Aua, Kone’s cousin, will now be chief, and he 
 
 Q 
 
226 
 
 A TRIP TO ELEMA. 
 
 sat at the head of the grave. He is very friendly with 
 us, and says he will accompany us to Elema. After 
 sitting for some time by the grave, I gave our presents 
 to the dead and the living, placing those for Kone on 
 the mat covering his grave. Leaving the grave, I went 
 up to our house, where several dishes of bananas and 
 fish were presented to me. Everything we left in 
 charge of Kone and other natives had been well 
 cared for, and the boat is in excellent order. 
 
 We went on board the Mayri, and we stood out to the 
 east of Lavao. Bob Samoa was in charge of Mayri, and 
 another native, Charlie Oak by name, was in charge of 
 my splendid Newtown boat, with a crew of six natives. 
 Charlie had instructions to keep as near us as possible. 
 
 We could not see the boat anywhere next morning. 
 We had light north-east winds all night, and ran 
 leisurely along, and at three p.m. anchored off Kerema, 
 but no boat was to be seen. We passed a very disagree- 
 able night, there being a rough sea and heavy rain, 
 with very vivid lightning over the land. 
 
 We started at daybreak with little wind. When it 
 cleared a little we saw, to our great relief, the boat not 
 far astern of us. Losing sight of the Mayri, they had 
 adopted the peculiar plan of returning to look for us, 
 and returned from Motumotu to Lese, coming on 
 yesterday. 
 
 We returned and anchored, and I landed in the boat. 
 We found a passage close in by the east point. Our 
 Boera friends with a crowd of Pesi natives met us on 
 the beach ; all were delighted to see us. With what 
 intense'interest on both sides questions were asked and 
 answered ! The Boerans were busy getting large canoes, 
 which they lash alongside their old ones ; fill up with 
 
MOTU LAIC A TO I. 
 
 227 
 
 sago, and about the end of the year return home. 
 Sometimes they return with as many as sixteen large 
 clumsy canoes, well lashed together, all full of sago. 
 
 I made friends with Opuna, the old chief of Pesi, who 
 took me to his house, and presented me with betel-nuts 
 and a good supply of cocoanuts. The village is a 
 miserable concern in thick bush, creepers growing over 
 many of the houses. In the main street I passed what 
 looked like a very rough chair, and, on asking what it 
 was for, was told a grave was underneath. 
 
 O11 returning to the vessel, I found a number of our 
 Motu friends on board. Their lalcatoi (large trading 
 canoe) is at Iverema. The wind was very light, and 
 we drifted leisurely along. When about five miles 
 away from the shore, a canoe with two natives came 
 off to us. When near, they called me by name, saying 
 they were sent by their chief to get me to land ; and 
 I must on no account refuse him. ‘ Friends, return, 
 and tell your, chief I cannot land. I want to be at 
 Vailala to-night.’ 
 
 ‘ But he has made his pig fast, and is only waiting 
 your arrival on shore.’ 
 
 ‘ I must go on.’ This was simply a stratagem of the 
 youths to get me to land. 
 
 We came leisurely along with light wind, and did not 
 get off the mouth of the Annie Biver until after sun- 
 down. Before dark we saw a red flag flying on the 
 eastern bank of the river, and knew our Motu friends 
 would look out for us, and conduct us to an anchorage. 
 The rocking of last night made us wish for a quiet 
 anchorage, so we risked entering, safely crossing the bar, 
 and when well in were met by several canoes crowded 
 with friends belonging to Port Moresby, others crowded 
 
 Q 2 
 
228 
 
 A TRIP TO ELEMA. 
 
 with Gulf natives, and all shouting instructions as to 
 our course to a snug anchorage. We anchored some 
 distance from the village, intending to go nearer to- 
 morrow morning. We were soon beset with questions as 
 to how their fathers, mothers, wives, and children were. 
 
 When everything was snug, and most of the natives 
 gone, I got a crew and went in the boat to visit the Motu 
 lakatoi. On our way up, I asked a lad from one of the 
 canoes, who stepped into the boat with me — 
 
 ‘Well, have you services, and do you observe the 
 Sabbath ? ’ 
 
 ‘Do you think, Tamate, we forget? We have ob- 
 served every Sabbath, and every morning and evening 
 we have services, and never omit to ask a blessing on 
 our food.’ 
 
 ‘ Who conducts your services ? ’ 
 
 ‘ Aruataera and Paeau.’ 
 
 The former is the first baptised native in New Guinea, 
 and the latter is a blind boy, who has for a long time 
 lived with us at Port Moresby. He is quite blind, but 
 makes capital use of his ears, and has a good memory. 
 
 Getting on board the canoe, I was met by Bara, the 
 captain, who led me to his own mat. Several fires 
 burning brightly gave us good light. They have 
 roofed in the canoe, and live on board. Alongside were 
 nine new canoes, so that when they return home they 
 will have one lakatoi made of thirteen canoes. 
 
 ‘ Well, Bara, what about the Word of God ? ’ 
 
 ‘ We remember it, as you will hear from Aruataera 
 and Paeau.’ 
 
 Aruataera comes forward, silence is called, and from 
 full hearts we give God thanks that we all meet in 
 health. Arua tells me that they have had morning and 
 
NATIVE IDOLS. 
 
 229 
 
 evening services, and on Sabbaths an extra one. Faeau 
 lias a small bullock bell that he rings to call all together, 
 when a large number of Gulf natives join them. They 
 both visit the temples, where there are always numbers 
 of men, and when sitting eating with them they tell 
 all they can remember of the teachings of the past few 
 years. Could I help giving God thanks ? The friends 
 at Port Moresby feel that the sorrows and trials, the 
 heart-aches and tears of the past, are far more than 
 rewarded. 
 
 I gave a present of tobacco to Bara for the crowd, and 
 taking Aruataera with me returned to the Mayri. I 
 asked Arua when the Sabbath came, and I was asto- 
 nished to find he counted correctly. I asked how he 
 knew, and he replied that since leaving he had kept 
 a string, and every morning tied a knot, and the seventh 
 knot was liclaka, the Sabbath. 
 
 Early the next morning a native canoe came alongside, 
 saying that I was to cross to the other side and be 
 presented with a pig. When we landed on the beach 
 we were met by an admiring crowd of men, women, and 
 children, all anxious to see a white man. I was led up 
 to an old chief’s house, where a large present of betel- 
 nuts was given me. In the house were shields, bows 
 and arrows, and drums, and two roughly carved wooden 
 men, with very bushy hair stuck on their heads. I 
 asked if they would sell them. ‘ No ; they belong to our 
 ancestors, and we cannot part with them.’ They do 
 them some kind of honour, and I noticed, when speaking 
 about them, all spoke in whispers. Before going to fight, 
 they consult them and pray to them for success. 
 
 The chiefs, having heard about our guns from the 
 Motu natives, were anxious to hear a shot fired, so Bob 
 
230 
 
 A TRIP TO ELEMA. 
 
 Samoa went on board and brought his gun ashore. A 
 great crowd gathered, but, after the first shot, few were 
 to be seen ; and after the second the few men who 
 tremblingly remained cried it was enough, that they 
 thought the Motuans lied, but it was something more 
 terrible even than had been reported. 
 
 The temples are well built, with flooring of sago palm 
 bark, and in each there are large wicker frames, that 
 in sacred times they adorn with feathers, &c., and 
 worship as Semese. During that time the men remain 
 in the temple for five moons, when no woman must be 
 seen, and no children dare approach. They have food 
 brought and left outside, and when the parties bringing 
 it have retired, it is carried inside. In two of the 
 temples were a number of lads, aged from ten to eighteen, 
 who were supposed not to be seen by their parents or 
 friends. When they entered, their heads were shaven, 
 and they remain until the hair grows thick and bushy, 
 then a large feast is prepared, and they mix with the 
 crowd. They have a back entrance by which they go out 
 when necessary, but first cover themselves with native 
 cloth, that they may not be seen. 
 
 In the afternoon we visited Haru, three miles distant 
 round west point. We had a splendid walk inland 
 through a strange profusion of cocoanut, sago, and 
 betel palms, numerous bread-fruit, and large tamanu 
 trees, draccena and crotons of various kinds, and ferns 
 in abundance, and through swamps in which various 
 kinds of mangroves grew, to a pretty little village. I 
 returned by the beach, Avea accompanying me. When 
 about to cross a creek, he insisted on carrying me. I 
 was scarcely on his back when I was dropped into the 
 water. Poor fellow, he was terribly chagrined. 
 
A DANGEROUS LANDING. 
 
 231 
 
 We left about sunrise on October 29th, in the small 
 boat for Maipua and Kaipurau, districts near to Bald 
 Head, with cannibal populations. On entering the bay, the 
 crew not being smart enough, we half-filled with water, 
 soaking everything thoroughly. We passed Orokolo, 
 intending to visit it on our return. We had a very 
 heavy southerly swell in the bay, and, on our getting 
 up to the Alele, where we hoped to enter, the sea was 
 breaking frightfully right across, and the further west 
 we went the worse it got. Not caring to lose the boat, 
 nor life, I decided to return, leaving these districts for 
 another trip ; so went round and stood well up for the 
 most easterly village of Orokolo. Here we were again 
 disappointed, the wind having increased, and the sea 
 breaking more heavily on the beach than when we 
 passed — so much so that we dared not attempt landing. 
 We anchored well off, and two boys landed through the 
 surf. We waited for two hours, and the boys not 
 returning we waved to them to walk to Vailala, and we 
 should try and beat down. Then up with the mast, 
 and anchor, and away, close-hauled, but making little 
 way. On one tack, when standing well in, we saw our 
 boys struggling through the surf, and got as near as 
 safety would allow, and got them on board. 
 
 After several tacks, the wind increasing, and a nasty 
 sea running, and we being on a lee shore with no hope of 
 getting up to Vailala before midnight, we decided that 
 if we could see a place a little more suitable than those 
 passed we would risk running in. We reached a 
 suitable place, and took the chance of a grand turn over 
 and loss of everything. It was better to try it in the light 
 than in the dark. The mast was taken down, the four 
 oars put out, the order given, ‘ Give way, pull hard ; 
 
232 
 
 A TRIP TO ELEMA. 
 
 look at nothing, only pull.’ The boat went at lightning 
 speed, flying on the tops of the seas. She was nearly 
 in, when a tremendous roller lifted the rudder out of 
 the water, and she swung on the sea. 
 
 The boys became frightened and sprang to their feet. 
 We must surely go over. ‘ Down, boys, down ! ’ and 
 ‘ Pull seaward, oars, pull hard ! ’ She righted, and again 
 we rushed madly onward upon the shore, taking very 
 little water in. White surf raged all round us, and we 
 were seized by strong natives, and soon our boat was 
 beyond high-water mark. Men in hundreds, all armed 
 with bows and arrows, met us. Women and girls, with 
 fishing nets, ran up and stood at a distance, and children 
 of both sexes viewed us at a safe distance, screaming 
 wildly when fifty yards off'. 
 
 From Maiva to this part the women attend to the 
 fishing. We had a long hot walk along the beach, and 
 in wet, heavy clothes it was not very agreeable. We 
 were led up into a splendid temple, divided into stalls ; 
 one was given to Bob and me, and two others for our 
 boys. The place is full of frames hanging up, and all 
 over are strange-looking head-dresses, masks, and 
 imitations of crocodiles’ heads, and grass petticoats 
 that only giantesses can wear. In sacred times, seasons 
 of helaka, these frames are all adorned with the above, 
 and praise is offered. Singing is the great work of that 
 season. 
 
 The country looks more inviting from the sea than 
 it does when ashore. The sea comes up near to the 
 houses ; there is a narrow strip of splendid land, on 
 which every kind of food will grow, and on which they 
 have abundance. Some of the finest crotons I have 
 ever seen grow wild here. Behind this strip of fine 
 
DUB US. 
 
 233 
 
 country is the deadly swamp, yet it is covered with 
 sago palms. The men and children are fine-looking, 
 all in good condition. The women look as if life was 
 hard ; they are ill-favoured, and are very shy. They are 
 much darker than the Motu natives. Young women 
 are respectably dressed ; married women have very 
 small petticoats ; old women generally a white shell or 
 leaf. 
 
 It blew hard all night, a very heavy sea breaking on 
 the beach ; but we were tolerably comfortable. We had 
 a most interesting service the next day, conducted in 
 the Orokolo dialect by Aruataera. and Kape. The 
 people listened attentively. At the close, Aruataera 
 asked if he might tell them of Noah and his three sons. 
 I assented ; but it took longer than I bargained for. 
 What splendid material for Gulf work we have in Motu 
 Christians ! Both addressed them freely, and without 
 any difficulty as if in want of a word. They come here 
 as little children, stay for months, and mix freely with 
 Elema children : so they cannot fail to get a thorough 
 hold of the dialect. 
 
 We next visited all the separate villages, called at 
 sixteen dubus and gave small presents to each. In one 
 they had some hideous-looking figures to represent 
 Semese. Everywhere we were kindly received. There 
 are many minor chiefs, two and three in each dubu ; 
 but I find they have one head chief, Mama, and in the 
 presence of all I gave him a present, saying I heard 
 that he was the one real chief of Orokolo, and to that 
 all assented. Mama’s village is Kaivakabu. Their large 
 dubu had very recently been burnt down ; so we had 
 service in their temporary one, made with cocoanut leaves ; 
 the place was crowded, and they listened attentively, 
 
234 
 
 A TRIP TO ELEMA. 
 
 anxious to have a smoke and a good look at their first 
 white man. Mama is a pleasant-looking man, about 
 fifty, with a good deal of determination — a man likely 
 to have his own way. Apoke is a younger man, very 
 pleasant and quiet, yet could assert himself ; he is very 
 proud of the distinction that he shall be the first to 
 receive the foreigner. 
 
 It seems this dubu belongs to two chiefs, so our 
 neighbour on the opposite side got nasty to-day, when 
 we were out visiting. Bob says he rushed in, painted, 
 followed by his young men, seized their bows and 
 arrows, and rushed out again, apparently in high 
 dudgeon. He got no present when Apoke got his, 
 hence the unpleasantness. Bob says, * More better, you 
 give him a present now, sir.’ ‘Wait, Bob; I never 
 give presents when threatened ; but if he is all right in 
 the evening, then he shall have a present.’ Bob prefers 
 being forearmed ; his revolver is close by him. He says 
 the Motu boys got frightened and left him. 
 
 This is a most prolific country for children ; they 
 simply swarm. Hot being cannibals, there is no danger 
 in the constant showing of feet and chest. The boots 
 astonish them. When at South Cape I had at first 
 to exhibit my chest many times a day. One day a 
 friendly chief, a great friend of Mrs. Chalmers, came 
 up to the house with a human breast, being a highly 
 prized and delicate bit, and presented it to my wife ! 
 That was an end to chest exhibition by me in that part 
 of Hew Guinea. 
 
 The sea continued worse than ever, the wind blowing 
 a gale. Two men came in, and an old fellow close by 
 noticed them, and at once let forth much pent-up wrath. 
 It seems that his daughter was fishing, and was knocked 
 
WORSHIP OF SEMES E. 
 
 235 
 
 down by a heavy roller and much hurt, and these two 
 are the wretches who have caused the trouble, being, in 
 his opinion, lords of the waves ! 
 
 We had another interesting service; the people hear 
 in their own tongue the story of Divine love. How 
 different to the hard up-hill work of the first months 
 amongst a people, knowing nothing or little of their 
 language, continually suspected, and our true object 
 unknown ! Here, all day long, the boys are speaking of 
 us and our teachings, of Adam and his wife, Noah, his 
 three sons, and the ark (this is a favourite subject), and 
 Abraham and Isaac. The Creation is a very pet theme, 
 then the story of Kanidu’s (God’s) love in the gift of 
 His Son, and of His dying for us, His being now in 
 heaven and His return. The resurrection is their 
 puzzle, and they say they could believe all but that. 
 
 Semese, according to their view, is a male spirit, and 
 resides in a temple in various representations during 
 sacred seasons. At the conclusion of helalca, a great 
 feast is prepared, and all food, pigs, &c., placed just 
 outside the temple, and their ornaments of shell and 
 wood are hung in front of the temple, and all presented 
 to Semese, after which the food is distributed, cooked, 
 and eaten, and the ornaments are taken down and put 
 on, preparatory to a grand dance. An active young 
 fellow showed us one of Semese’s dances. He did it 
 very gracefully ; advanced, backed, to right side, to left, 
 stepped, right foot to left knee, down, left foot to right 
 knee, wheeled and shouted. He held a drum, on which he 
 beat time, and had on his head a very large hideous hat. 
 
 We left Orokolo on October 31st, the boys leading 
 boat along shore just inside of surf, I walking slowly 
 on beach, in charge of three hundred armed men. When 
 
236 
 
 A TRIP TO ELEMA. 
 
 about five miles from village, and near to Aumana 
 Point, the boat swamped, and had to be pulled ashore. 
 We had to leave the boat for better weather, and came 
 along the beach to Haru. I promised Avea, the chief 
 of Haru, when I last met him, that I would spend a 
 night in his village. The boys, in charge of Bob, have 
 gone on. Aruataera is with me, but I have no weapon of 
 any kind. Avea entertained me with his Port Moresby 
 experiences seven years ago. He described the house, 
 the lights, the pictures, the sitting at table, and the 
 dog chasing him, and his flying over the fence like a 
 bird, with great minuteness. He spoke with feelings of 
 gratitude of the rice and biscuits he received, and the 
 kind words that were said to him. He says, ‘ Tamate 
 do tell Misi Lao and Misi Haine to come, and in a 
 large ship, not a small one such as you have, and I will 
 fill it with sago for them.’ Avea cannot do enough to 
 show kindness. Little did the friends at Port Moresby 
 think, seven years ago, when giving the Gulf savage a 
 smoke and a little food, that their old friend Tamate 
 would reap great benefit from it. ‘ One sows and 
 another reaps.’ 
 
 At nine p.m. Avea took me quietly into his house. 
 An old man following gave orders to a man outside to 
 close the door, and to prevent any one coming up the 
 ladder. A bag made from the sago palm was taken down, 
 and I was asked in a whisper if I would like to see the 
 maker of heaven and earth, thunder and lightning, south- 
 east and north-west winds. I whispered back, ‘ Yes, 
 certainly.’ Out they came, a small figure of a man, and 
 another of a woman, both coarsely carved. Out came 
 another, which I should call a carved shuttlecock. 
 
 ‘ Well, Avea, and how is it managed ? ’ 
 
THE ANNIE RIVER. 
 
 237 
 
 He places the man and woman side by side, and if 
 thunder is wanted, or if it is thundering too much, he 
 holds up the shuttlecock, and the thing is done. For 
 wind, he alters the position of the man and woman, 
 placing them according to the required wind, and 
 holding the shuttlecock in a different way. I asked 
 Avea to sell them ; but he would sooner part with 
 everything he had than with these ancient articles. 
 For long generations they have been in the family. I 
 told him to be sure and keep them for me, as I knew 
 the time would come, if he were spared, when he would 
 think little of them. 
 
 I left Haru early on November 1st, reached the 
 Mayri in time for breakfast, and, on the 3rd, pulled up 
 the Annie Eiver for about a mile, then into a large 
 creek, up which we went for over three miles, where we 
 anchored our boat, and then we went through a swamp 
 in water three feet deep, to the district of Herau, 
 comprising five small villages. Close to the villages 
 the country is good, with profuse vegetation — cocoanut- 
 trees and bread-fruit trees are abundant, and the betel- 
 nut is left to fall down and rot. The people were all 
 greatly excited, following us in crowds from one village 
 to another, showing us all the kindness they possibly 
 could. Inland, a short distance from here, is a range of 
 hills, something like the MacgilivTay Eange, at the back 
 of Hood Bay, not marked on the chart. I have put 
 them on my chart, and call them Searle Hills. The 
 Albert Eange stretches away at the back. 
 
 In the afternoon, I ascended the Annie Eiver a few 
 miles. It is a fine, broad, deep stream. The natives 
 say it comes a very long way further than they know. 
 They know nothing of the mountain tribes. 
 
238 
 
 A TRIP TO ELEMA. 
 
 The next day, the wind being fair for Port Moresby, 
 though light, and our sago ready, we filled up and left 
 about mid-day. During the time we were getting the 
 sago on board, twelve men well armed planted them- 
 selves just opposite the vessel, and kept watch, so as to 
 be ready in the event of a disturbance. Having fine 
 weather, we reached Port Moresby safely after a pleasant 
 sail. 
 
( 239 ) 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 A NEW GUINEA PICNIC. 
 
 A strange sight in New Guinea — Change in the natives — Bathing — 
 Missionaries bathing — Refreshment — A short native service — 
 Races — Sports — Reverence for parents shown by the natives — 
 Home again. 
 
 To a stranger, Port Moresby would have appeared rather 
 lively on this particular morning : crowds of children 
 were walking along the shore, and all so hearty and 
 noisy ; horses were being saddled, and people apparently 
 white — a lady, and two gentlemen — were standing by 
 ready to mount ; on a large boat, mast up, sail was 
 being set, and women and children were crowding on 
 board. What did it mean? In this New Guinea of 
 cannibals, cut-throats, murderers of the deepest dye, is 
 a rising about to take place, and are the people clearing 
 out ? No, it is only the first native school-feast that 
 has ever taken place in New Guinea ; a pig is to die, a 
 bag of rice and a large quantity of sago have to be 
 consumed. So much for the Gospel. In nine years, a 
 savage people have been sufficiently advanced to relish 
 the blessings of peace and enjoyment, such as a school- 
 feast can afford. 
 
 Some may think these people were contented and 
 kindly of old, but no sadder mistake could be made. 
 They were a horde of pirates delighting in war, and the 
 
240 
 
 A NEW GUINEA PICNIC. 
 
 terror of all their neighbours, carrying murder and 
 plunder for many miles along the coast, glorying in the 
 numbers they killed, and rejoicing in the amount of 
 plunder. Teachers were placed here in 1873, and in 
 1874 we arrived: since then the mission has steadily 
 advanced, until now the people can appreciate peace 
 through the Gospel. Instead of bringing murder, 
 robbery, and sorrow to other villages, they are now 
 heralds of peace. 
 
 About aweek before the feast, the large district of Taroa 
 attacked the Mankolans, and killed many, weakening 
 them much. On hearing of this, Kaili and Tupuselei 
 arranged to attack and kill the remainder. Soon the 
 news arrived here, and, unknown to us, Boevagi, the chief 
 of this tribe, sent word to both places, that if they 
 did any such thing as attack a weakened people, he, 
 and all the Motu, would attack them ; and what then ? 
 It must be peace all along the coast. 
 
 Forgive the digression. Ah ! well we are in the 
 Torrid Zone here, and need not describe the walk and the 
 burning sun ; but, being early, the ride was pleasant for 
 us, as we were the ‘ people apparently white ’ whom 
 I mentioned as standing by the horses ready to mount. 
 We were once white, but, like Solomon’s wife, Pharaoh’s 
 daughter, the sun has kissed us, and left his impression. 
 There they are ; the clans gathering from north and 
 south ; boys and girls in large numbers, a goodly array 
 of young, and a few old, men. No mistaking it : they 
 are out for the day, and they intend to make the most 
 of it ; and I think they see that we are intent on the 
 same thing. You know that ‘ all work and no play ’ 
 applies to missionaries, their wives, and also to savage 
 children. 
 
MISSIONARIES BA THING. 
 
 241 
 
 Now as to preparations. We land at the chosen spot, 
 and begin to clear away the under hush, leaving the 
 taller trees, and make a nice arbour : leaves are spread, 
 and soon a nice comfortable place is ready. But there is 
 * no rose without a thorn,’ alas ! the red biting ant is in 
 full force, and means mischief. A nice comfortable place, 
 their possession of old, and we mean to have it, but 
 they do not mean to give it up. They bite ; but fires 
 are lighted, and they soon yield, and we are monarchs 
 of all we survey. On with great earthen pots : what a 
 bustling and water-carrying, from every corner, sago- 
 d am ping, rice-cleaning, and banana-skinning, four fires 
 roaring — hungry fires, calling for pig, rice, and sago ! 
 
 What is that noise ? Oh, bathers, in for a good 
 sea-day, in one of the finest bathing-places I have 
 ever seen ; swimming, diving, turning somersaults, and 
 ducking one another ; there they go — a shout ! Off under 
 the water, back again, meet, down all go again, and 
 come up in different places, blowing hard and roaring 
 with laughter. What a splendid beach ! So white and 
 clean, so firm, and so suitable for swimmers and non- 
 swimmers. What nonsense, and how stupid, looking 
 at them, and not going in, and being happy in salt-water 
 too. Old missionaries now, so must be sedate. Ah, 
 cannot be so; with so much magnetic happy youth about, 
 so much innocent fun, the old hearts beat young, the 
 enthusiasm of youth is felt, and — must I relate it ? Yes, 
 out with it. We undress, and clothe ourselves in bathing 
 costume ; a great shout ; the enthusiasm and excitement 
 reaches its height ; the missionaries are bathing ! What ? 
 missionaries ducking them, racing with them, diving 
 with them, swimming under water with them ! What 
 next? A missionary dives some distance out, crawls 
 
 R 
 
242 
 
 A NEW GUINEA PICNIC. 
 
 along the bottom, catches hold of a pair of heels, and 
 over the owner goes, alas ! to he nearly drowned. Never 
 mind who the owner was, or who the missionary was ; 
 hut, in years to come, that bathing will he remembered. 
 
 "What next ? We spread leaves ; gather in classes and 
 sit quietly ; the serious business of the day is about to 
 begin, and, to the natives, the really most important. 
 Pig, sago, rice, and bananas are soon divided, and the 
 babel ceases, whilst our chief, Boe, asks a blessing, 
 thanking the Giver of all good, of peace, goodwill, and 
 friendship, who spreads a table for us, and supplies 
 our every want ; then each leader is called, and the 
 division of food is carried off and eaten. All are 
 satisfied, and revived for new exertions in fun; hut 
 first, a short service takes place. ‘ I have a Father in 
 the promised land ’ is sung in Motuan, a few words of 
 encouragement are spoken, and an earnest prayer is 
 offered to Him who loved, and still loves children, that 
 He would bless these children. The prayer is offered 
 by the first convert, a good earnest fellow, who has 
 already done much service in the distant west : his- 
 favourite story in new places is Noah and family, and 
 the flood : and he says when he tells that story that 
 he soon gets an attentive audience. 
 
 And now for racing ; the hoys and girls all try it ; 
 heads and looking-glasses are given as prizes : what 
 roars of laughter, as they tumble over one and another ; 
 and when others carry off the palm no bad spirit is 
 shown. The racing was led off by a missionary and two> 
 natives, the former coming in first ; a three-legged race 
 was the climax of amusement, and caused roars of 
 laughter; they took some time to find out that by 
 taking one another round the neck they could steady 
 
HAPPY CHILDREN. 
 
 243 
 
 themselves, and run faster. The ‘ tug-of-war ’ was 
 exciting, and when the rope broke the shouting was 
 beyond description. Then came some of their native 
 games; and nothing in them called forth condemnation. 
 
 What happy children ! — far happier than most of our 
 British children. No wretched homes ; no drunken 
 parents ; no hungry days and nights. The parents 
 may sometimes be pressed for food, but all their time 
 and strength will be given to find something for the 
 children, and I think every native parent would say, 
 
 ‘ Who dare touch my darling child, the jewel of my eye, 
 my very life ? ’ Shall I say it ? It may seem heterodox, 
 but it is true. I have seen the fifth commandment 
 more honoured in New Guinea than I have on many 
 occasions in England. It has been a pleasing sight to 
 me to see the reverence shown to parents by old and 
 young ; a missionary, wanting a boat’s crew for a week 
 or a fortnight, could not have one native whose mother 
 or father was alive, if he or she did not consent ; men 
 of forty will first say, ‘ Let me go home, and hear what 
 my mother, and wife will say ; if it is all right, I shall 
 soon be back.’ Lads eighteen or nineteen years of age 
 would never think of engaging until £ mother consented.’ 
 I cannot altogether agree with the hymn that says, 
 ‘ Thank the goodness and the grace.’ I have not seen 
 much happiness in the homes where there were constant 
 quarrels, daily disobedience, and an entire want of 
 reverence to parents. These things are certainly more 
 common in Britain than among the converts in New 
 Guinea. Christ loves children ; and all we want is to 
 lead the New Guinea children to Him— by no means to 
 Anglicise them, believing that He will receive them 
 without their adopting English customs. 
 
 R 2 
 
244 
 
 A NEW GUINEA PICNIC. 
 
 But how I do digress! Well, another hath; horses 
 saddled, a canter on the firm sandy beach, boat made 
 ready, and then all start homewards. Tired ? Who could 
 be otherwise ? Sitting on the verandah in our house, 
 about half-past eight p.m. we could, in the stillness of 
 the evening, hear the day’s transactions gone over again 
 and again. The shouts of laughter told that not only 
 were the actors interested, but the audience, who had 
 spent their day at home or at work, were now taking 
 their share of the day’s pleasure in listening. 
 
( 245 ) 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 BIRDS OF PARADISE. 
 
 Common in New Guinea — Habits of the birds — Not suitable for 
 food — Native methods of capturing them — Manufacture of head- 
 dresses from the feathers. 
 
 New Guinea is known as the home of the Bird of 
 Paradise — perhaps the most magnificent of all birds in 
 its plumage, but the most hideous in its notes. There 
 are many kinds of this bird, but^ I shall only speak of 
 the Raggiana, because it is the only species that I have 
 seen alive in its natural state. 
 
 What strange tales have been told about the Bird of 
 Paradise : how it for ever hovered on the wing, having 
 no feet to rest with, and how it lived on a particular 
 kind of food created for it alone, and kept in some 
 paradise where it only of all birds could resort. 
 
 The first time I saw the Bird of Paradise, I was a 
 long way inland in New Guinea. It was sitting on a 
 tree, with its grand plume hanging down. It was shot 
 at, but escaped the evil intent of the sportsman, and 
 flew away, gathering up its plume and making for a 
 clump of trees in a very inaccessible place. 
 
 I have seen a hen bird sitting by a hole in a large 
 tree a long way up, the cock not far off. It is a 
 remarkably shy bird, and the slightest noise underneath 
 
246 
 
 BIRDS OF PARADISE. 
 
 alarms it and sends it away. The best time to get near 
 it is in the early morning. One morning we had 
 camped on a spur of the Owen Stanley Bange, and 
 being up early, to enjoy the cool atmosphere, I saw on 
 one of a clump of trees close by six Birds of Paradise, four 
 cocks and two hens. The hens were sitting quietly on a 
 branch ; and the four cocks, dressed in their very best, 
 their ruffs of green and yellow standing out, giving 
 them a large handsome appearance about the head and 
 neck, their long flowing plumes so arranged that every 
 feather seemed carefully combed out, and the long wires 
 stretched well out behind, were dancing in a circle 
 round them. It was an interesting sight : first one, 
 then another would advance a little nearer to a hen, and 
 she, coquette-like, would retire a little, pretending not 
 to care for any advances. A shot was fired, contrary to 
 my expressed wish ; there was a strange commotion, and 
 two of the cocks flew away, the others and the hens 
 remained. Soon the two returned, and again the dance 
 began and continued long, and I having strictly for- 
 bidden any more shooting, all fear was gone ; and so, at 
 last, a rest, and then a little nearer to the two dark 
 brown and certainly not pretty hens. Quarrelling 
 ensued, and in the end all six birds flew away. 
 
 Passing through a forest at the back of the Astrolabe, 
 I saw several engaged as above ; our approach startled 
 them, and away they flew. 
 
 Anxious to taste the flesh, I had one cooked after 
 being skinned, and, although boiled for several hours, it 
 was as tough as leather, and the soup not much to the 
 taste. Fortunately, we had other things for dinner, so 
 put the paradise-dish aside. 
 
 The inland natives kill them with arrows ; sometimes 
 
SHOOTING BINDS OF PARADISE. 
 
HEAD-DRESSES. 
 
 249 
 
 they catch them with gum smeared over the branches 
 of the trees. The natives know their favourite resort, 
 and many are snared. The natives skin them so as to 
 secure the head, neck, and plume, throwing the tail 
 away. These skins they trade away to the coast, natives 
 getting in exchange, salt, and shell, and coral ornaments. 
 They are made into head-dresses of various kinds, which 
 are worn at feasts. 
 
 At Aroma the head-dress is one mass of plumes, 
 nicely arranged. All the men do not wear these head- 
 dresses, only the dancers, who are much admired by the 
 assembled crowd. At Kabadi and Naara they have 
 frames about 2£ feet in height and 3 feet broad, and 
 from the centre a long stick 10 or 12 feet long. On 
 the frame and centre they fasten plumes until all 
 the wood is hidden. The frame is made to fit on the 
 head, and at the great annual dance they are used. It 
 looks peculiar and much overdone, although, to native 
 taste, it is perfection, and speaks of wealth. The plumes 
 are bought by foreigners, and resold in the colonies, 
 where they are much admired. It is a wonder they 
 have not become popular with the ladies, to be worn 
 in the hat. 
 
( 250 ) 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 EAST CAPE IX 1878 AND IN 1882. 
 
 Original state of the natives — War and cannibalism — How the 
 mission work lias been carried on — A Sunday at East Cape in 
 1882 — Twenty-one converts baptised — A bright prospect. 
 
 In 1878 missionary work was begun at East Cape, 
 and four years after the establishment of that mission, 
 on a review of the past, what evidences of progress were 
 to be seen ! There were signs of light breaking in upon 
 the long dark night of heathenism. Looking at the 
 condition of this people when the missionaries and 
 teachers first landed, what did they find ? A people, 
 sunk in crime that to them has become a custom and 
 religion — a people in whom murder is the finest art, 
 and who from their earliest years study it. Disease, 
 sickness, and death have all to be accounted for. They 
 know nothing of malaria, filth, or contagion. Hence 
 they hold that an enemy causes these things, and 
 friends have to see that due punishment is made. The 
 large night firefly helps to point in the direction of that 
 enemy, or the spirits of departed ones are called in 
 through spiritists’ influence to come and assist, and 
 the medium pronouncing a neighbouring tribe guilty, 
 the time is near when that tribe will be visited and 
 
EAST CAPE AS IT WAS. 
 
 251 
 
 cruel deeds done. They know nothing of a God of 
 Love — only gods and spirits who are ever revengeful, 
 and must be appeased ; who fly about in the night and 
 disturb the peace of homes. It is gross darkness and 
 cruelty, brother’s hand raised against brother’s. Great 
 is the chief who claims many skulls; and the youth 
 who may wear a jawbone as an armlet is to be 
 admired. 
 
 "When we first landed here, the natives lived only to 
 fight, and the victory was celebrated by a cannibal feast. 
 Scenes like that depicted in the Frontispiece to this 
 volume were constantly occurring. It is painfully 
 significant to find that the only field in which Hew 
 Guinea natives have shown much skill and ingenuity 
 is in the manufacture of weapons. The illustration 
 shows one of the most deadly of these in use. It is 
 known as a Man-catcher, and was invented by the 
 natives of Hood Bay, but all over the vast island this 
 loop of rattan cane is the constant companion of head- 
 hunters. The peculiarity of the weapon is the deadly 
 spike inserted in the handle. 
 
 The modus operandi is as follows : — The loop is 
 thrown over the unhappy wretch who is in retreat, and 
 a vigorous pull from the brawny arm of the vengeful 
 captor jerks the victim upon the spike, which (if the 
 weapon be deftly handled) penetrates the body at the 
 base of the brain, or, if lower down, in the spine, in 
 either case inflicting a death-wound. 
 
 All these things are changed, or in process of change. 
 For several years there have been no cannibal ovens, no 
 desire for skulls. Tribes that could not formerly meet 
 but to fight, now meet as friends, and sit side by side in 
 the same house worshipping the true God. Men and 
 
2 tj 2 
 
 EAST CAPE IN 1878 AND IN 1882. 
 
 women who, on the arrival of the mission, sought the 
 missionaries’ lives, are only anxious now to do what 
 they can to assist them, even to the washing of their 
 feet. How the change came about is simply by the 
 use of the same means as those acted upon in many 
 islands of the Pacific. The first missionaries landed 
 not only to preach the Gospel of Divine love, but also 
 to live it, and to show to the savage a more excellent 
 way than theirs. Learning the language, mixing freely 
 with them, showing kindnesses, receiving the same, 
 travelling with them, differing from them, making 
 friends, assisting them in their trading, and in every 
 way making them feel that their good only was sought. 
 They thought at first that we were compelled to leave 
 our own land because of hunger ! 
 
 Teachers were placed amongst the people; many 
 sickened and died. There was a time of great trial, but 
 how changed is everything now ! Four years pass on, 
 and, in 1882, we visit them. We left Port Moresby, 
 and arrived at East Cape on a Sunday. Morning 
 service was finished, and, from the vessel, we saw a 
 number of natives well dressed, standing near the 
 mission house, waiting to receive us. The teachers came 
 off, and with them several lads, neatly dressed. After 
 hearing from them of the work, and of how the people 
 were observing the Sabbath, we landed, and were 
 met by a quiet, orderly company of men, women, and 
 boys, who welcomed us as real friends. The first to 
 shake hands with us was a chief from the opposite side 
 of the bay, who in early days gave us much trouble, 
 and had to be well watched. Now he was dressed, and 
 his appearance much altered. It was now possible to 
 meet him and feel he was a friend. We found Pi Yaine 
 
PROGRESS OF CHRISTIANITY. 
 
 =53 
 
 very ill, and not likely to live long ; yet she lived long 
 enough to rejoice in the glorious success of the Gospel 
 of Christ, and to see many of those for whom she 
 laboured profess Christianity. We were astonished, when 
 we met in the afternoon, at the orderly service — the nice 
 well-tuned singing of hymns, translated by the teacher, 
 and the attention, when he read a chapter in Mark’s 
 Gospel — translated by him from the Earotongan into the 
 dialect of the place. When he preached to them all 
 listened attentively, and seemed to be anxious not to 
 forget a single word. Two natives prayed with great 
 earnestness and solemnity. After service all remained, 
 and were catechised on the sermon, and then several 
 present stood up and exhorted their friends to receive 
 the Gospel. Many strangers were present, and they 
 were exhorted to come as often as possible and hear the 
 good news. Then, again, others offered prayers. We 
 found that numbers came in on the Saturday with food 
 and cooking pots, and remained until Monday morning. 
 They lived with the teachers, and attended all the 
 services, beginning with a prayer-meeting on Saturday 
 night. 
 
 During our stay of a few days they all remained at 
 the station, and we saw much of them. The teachers 
 said there were twenty-one who professed faith in 
 Christ and had given up heathenism and desired 
 baptism. We visited further on to the east, and we 
 were a week away on our return to East Cape, and after 
 close examination of each candidate we decided to baptise 
 them on the following Tuesday. The service was most 
 interesting, and well attended by persons from various 
 places. At night we examined the children and grown- 
 up people who attend school, and were much pleased 
 
254 
 
 SOUTH CAPE IN 1878 AND IN 1882. 
 
 with them. A few can read in the Motu dialect; 
 others know how to put letters together and form words. 
 We hope soon to have one or two hooks in their own 
 dialect. Of those baptised several are anxious to be 
 instructed, that they may De better fitted to do work 
 for Christ amongst their own countrymen. Already 
 they hold services, and exhort in other villages, and 
 when travelling they do all the good they can to 
 others. 
 
 We are in hopes soon to receive a number of young 
 men and women at Port Moresby, and begin our 
 Institution, to be called ‘ The New Guinea Institution 
 for Training Evangelists.’ At present we shall pro- 
 ceed quickly, building native houses for students, 
 and a class room to be bought in the colonies, towards 
 which our true friends in North Adelaide contribute 
 largely. 
 
 The harvest ripens fast : where shall we look for 
 labourers ? The Master has said, ‘ Pray.’ May they 
 soon be sent! The light is shining, the darkness is 
 breaking, and the thick clouds are moving, and the 
 hidden ones are being gathered in. We have already 
 plucked the first flowers ; stern winter yields, and soon 
 we shall have the full spring, the singing of birds, 
 and the trees in full blossom. Hasten it, 0 Lord, 
 we plead ! 
 
PART II. 
 
 SEVEN WEEKS IN NEW GUINEA. 
 
College. Mr. Lawes’ House. Ruatoka’s House. First Mission House. 
 
 Port Moresby. Church. 
 
 {Pari of the village in the sea and Mission Station .) 
 
CHAPTER 1. 
 
 THREE SUNDAYS AT PORT MORESBY. 
 
 Port Moresby — Its houses — Two lakatoi — Native products — Driving 
 away storm spirits — The sago palm — The church — The services 
 — The baptism of Ruako, the pirate— Two native deaths — A 
 fight averted — Funeral ceremonies- -The wail for the dead — 
 Sorcerers — Prospects of Christianity at Port Moresby. 
 
 In 1872, the writer, associated with the Rev. A. W. 
 Murray, located the first Christian teachers on Hew 
 Guinea. Of the thirteen dusky pioneers then distributed 
 about, several, alas ! with their wives, were subsequently 
 slain by the heathen ; others returned home ; whilst 
 Ruatoka and Piri are still living and working for the 
 Master in Hew Guinea. On Hovember 22nd, 1883, I 
 again sailed in the John Williams from Rarotonga to 
 Hew Guinea — touching at Sydney — with thirteen 
 married teachers and their families, who were all landed 
 in good health at Port Moresby on February 6tli, 1884. 
 
 Port Moresby is almost encircled by bare limestone 
 hills. Scarcely a patch of level land can be seen. It 
 is a fine harbour ; but the holding ground is not good. 
 It runs six miles north and south, opening out on the 
 west into Fairfax Harbour. Opposite to our anchorage 
 lay the islet of Elevara, with a village at its base. On 
 the mainland, close to Elevara, is the village of 
 Tanobada ; whilst at some distance to our right was the 
 
 s 
 
25S THREE SUNDA YS AT PORT MORESBY. 
 
 large village of Hanuabada. The united population of 
 these villages is eight hundred and fifty. On rising 
 ground, behind Tanobada, and very pleasantly situated, 
 are the mission premises ; consisting of a college, 
 students’ cottages, a fine dwelling house, hospital, and 
 a church. 
 
 We all received a most cordial welcome from Messrs. 
 Lawes and Chalmers — the latter just recovered from a 
 severe attack of fever contracted in the Gulf. Most of 
 the Port Moresby natives belong to the Motu tribe, 
 as do also the inhabitants of Manumanu in Eedscar 
 Bay, where we landed teachers in 1872. Boevagi is 
 recognised as head chief of the three villages ; to his 
 care the British flag was entrusted by Mr. Chester, 
 April 4tli, 1883. 
 
 The appearance of the villages from the deck of a 
 vessel at anchor is striking. At high water they appear 
 to be built in the sea ; at low water, on a black sandy 
 beach. The houses are built on stout mangrove stakes 
 firmly planted in the mud and sand. Most of them are 
 large, and swarm with inmates ; alongside of many are 
 tiny huts, which I took to be the sleeping-rooms of the 
 youngsters, but they proved to be store-houses of sago, 
 yams, &c., &c. The front of these houses is inland. 
 Canoes are often moored to the stakes on which these 
 houses are built. Were these people attacked from the 
 landside, they could easily escape through the back 
 door to sea. 
 
 We were fortunate in seeing two lalcatoi 1 or Gulf- 
 going crafts; the larger one consisted of fourteen 
 immense canoes lashed firmly together and decked. A 
 
 1 A lalcatoi consists of not less than j Laka = vaka i = canoe, 
 three canoes lashed together (Toi = torn )= three. 
 
THE TRAINING INSTITUTION. 
 
 259 
 
 tall mast and an immense mat sail were secured with 
 ropes of rattan cane. At either end was a thatched 
 canopy, as protection against rain and heavy dews. 
 Each lakatoi starting for the Gulf is filled with earthen- 
 ware pots, &c., to be exchanged for sago, packed in the 
 large sheathing base of the sago leaf. Each canoe 
 measured forty-five feet in length, and stood four feet 
 high, — hollowed out of a single tree. 
 
 The institution is conducted by the Rev. W. G. Lawes. 
 There are fourteen students, all married but one. They 
 are making good progress in their studies : their faces 
 indicate thoughtfulness and good nature. The school- 
 children are wonderfully quick and intelligent. 
 
 The croaking of frogs startled me during my first night 
 ashore by its novelty. At night iguanas come out of 
 the bush to steal chickens. They are hunted by dogs 
 and eaten by natives. I recollect seeing one on the 
 island of Tauan five feet in length. Papuans do not 
 sympathise with the Polynesian horror of the lizard 
 tribe. There exists in New Guinea an inferior but 
 indigenous breed of fowls. A small oyster is plentiful 
 at Port Moresby ; they are capital eating. The beach 
 is covered with a strongly scented mint. Our table 
 was well supplied with fine indigenous cucumbers, 
 which are cultivated by the natives. A tiny wild sort 
 grow everywhere, exactly the same as the pati of the 
 Hervey Group. 
 
 One night during a thunderstorm we heard a terrible 
 noise in the village; — the natives were beating their 
 drums and shouting lustily in order to drive away the 
 storm-spirits. By the time their drumming and 
 vociferation ceased, the storm had passed away, and the 
 villagers were well satisfied. One Sabbath night, in a 
 
 s 2 
 
260 THREE SUNDA YS AT PORT MORES B Y. 
 
 similar way, they expelled the sickness-producing 
 spirits who had occasioned the death of several natives ! 
 When the church bell was first used, the natives thanked 
 Mr. Lawes for having — as they averred — driven away 
 numerous hands of ghosts from the interior. In like 
 manner they were delighted at the barking of a fine dog 
 domesticated at the mission house (the dingo cannot 
 bark), as they felt certain that all the ghosts would 
 now be compelled to rush back to the interior. Un- 
 fortunately, the ghosts got used to the bell and the dog ! 
 So the young men had to go about at night — often hiding 
 in terror behind trees and bushes — well armed with bows 
 and arrows, to shoot down these obnoxious spirits (void). 
 
 Inland is a pretty valley, part of which is cultivated 
 by the mission. Oranges, limes, citrons, granadillas, 
 avocados, cabbages, beans, and eschalots grow freely. 
 A brook lies beyond, lined with sago palms. 
 
 The sago, like the Nipa palm, propagates itself by 
 offsets, as well as once in its life by flowers and seeds ; 
 in the former respect reminding one of the banana or 
 plantain, rather than of the cocoa-nut palm. When 
 about twelve years of age, the sago tree sends up an 
 immense terminal spike of flowers ; but the fruit is 
 nearly three years in ripening. The tree then gradually 
 withers. Unlike the short-lived sago palm, the cocoa- 
 nut palm under favourable circumstances will last 
 One hundred and fifty years. 
 
 My first Sunday ashore I was awakened by a see min g 
 dirge ; it was merely the wailing of dingoes ( Canis 
 Dingo) at break of day. The mischievous dingo is the 
 only representative of the dog tribe in New Guinea. It 
 is valued chiefly for its eye-teeth, used for necklaces 
 and frontlets. 
 
EA RL Y MORNING SER VICE. 26 1 
 
 Our first service began at daylight, a hundred natives 
 attending. The church is a spacious, plain structure, 
 erected on mangrove piles; the sides and roof are 
 thatched with sago leaves, rendering the interior very 
 cool and pleasant. Doors, kept open during service, 
 answer the purpose of windows, thoroughly ventilating 
 the building. The flooring is of wood ; there are no 
 seats or mats. A mat railing encloses the platform 
 which serves instead of a pulpit. 
 
 Mr. Chalmers conducted the service, giving an ani- 
 mated address. Several brief prayers were offered by 
 native converts. Familiar tunes of fatherland were 
 most heartily sung to Motu versions of favourite hymns. 
 Already they have a collection of one hundred and sixty 
 hymns in their own tongue. The greatest attention 
 was paid by the congregation. 
 
 A second service was conducted by Euatoka, “ mine 
 own son in the faith,” at nine A.M. One hundred and 
 fifty were present. Euatoka’s delivery was dignified 
 and pleasing. The congregation was more mixed on this 
 occasion. The women squatted down on the right hand 
 of the preacher, the men on the left. A fat albino babe, 
 of pure Papuan parents, was a very conspicuous object. 
 The only persons clothed were church members, students, 
 and others connected with the mission. Women wore 
 merely a grass petticoat ; their persons exquisitely 
 tattooed. Married women in New Guinea are pitiable 
 objects to look upon, — their heads being close shaven. 
 A fine white shell armlet, however, is worn on the left 
 arm just above the elbow. Most of the unmarried girls 
 were adorned with ear-ornaments, necklaces, armlets, 
 and anklets. They wear the hair in a complete frizzle, 
 four or five inches long, and not parted. 
 
262 THREE SUNDA YS AT PORT MORESBY. 
 
 Heathen men wore only a piece of string of the size 
 of whipcord as a girdle. However, they rejoiced in 
 nasal ornaments, often nine inches long and curved, 
 inserted in the pierced septum. A few had their hair 
 in a chignon. A double frontlet of dingo eye-teeth, or 
 of the less valuable wallaby teeth, adorned several of 
 
 A NATIVE OF TORT MORESBY. 
 
 the males. The tattooing on their face was very slight. 
 Their toilet was completed by a long wooden comb or 
 head-scratcher, stuck in the hair above the middle of 
 the forehead, and surmounted by a white cockatoo- 
 feather and a valuable pearl-shell gorget. 
 
 During morning service a long string of women 
 passed, carrying ‘ chatties ’ from the stream to their 
 
ELEVEN CONVERTS BAPTISED. 
 
 263 
 
 homes. At three r.M. a third service was held by 
 Mr. Lawes. The text was, ‘ They feared the Lord, and 
 served their own gods’ (2 Kings xvii. 33) — words 
 singularly appropriate to a people emerging from 
 heathenism. Evidently the auditory caught the purport 
 of the message. Of the two hundred and fifty present, 
 many were strangers. 
 
 Never did I see brethren co-operating together more 
 harmoniously. Both are able preachers in the Motu 
 language ; both in the prime of life — men worth looking 
 at ; and a fine physique is not without its value amongst 
 savages. The calm, able translator and tutor is linked 
 on to the impetuous fearless pioneer whose name is 
 loved from Bald Head to East Cape, and far away into 
 the interior. 
 
 The general features of my second Sabbath at Port 
 Moresby were not dissimilar. But there was one point 
 of special interest in the afternoon, viz., eleven adults 
 — admitted to Church fellowship on the previous 
 Friday — were baptized, and afterwards partook of the 
 Lord’s Supper. Very touching was it to me to gaze 
 upon these men, once noted for murder, robbery, and 
 every heathen vice, but now ‘clothed and in their 
 right mind,’ and especially to unite with the Church 
 (fifty-three in number) of Port Moresby in com- 
 memorating the Great Sacrifice on Calvary. Amongst 
 those baptized was Paiako, the pirate of former days. 
 He was once the terror of passing canoes, and, indeed, 
 of all the neighbouring villages. The young men 
 joyfully followed Buako, as they never failed, when 
 led by him, to return laden with spoil. All who 
 resisted were put to death. This is the man who 
 during Mr. Chalmers last Gulf voyage enchained a 
 
264 THREE SUNDA VS A T PORT MORESBY. 
 
 heathen auditory with Bible stories from sunset to 
 sunrise ! 
 
 My third Sabbath at Port Moresby was of a widely 
 different character. The only attendants at church were 
 the Church members, students, school children, and the 
 missionaries. How to account for this ? Two deaths 
 had occurred ; one of a warrior who had been ailing for 
 some days, another of a youth accidentally wounded 
 by a friend. The former, although very weak, had 
 conversed with Mr. Lawes in the morning. It appears 
 that his lady friends had made up their minds that 
 he would die ; so they — his wife taking the lead — 
 threw themselves upon him in their grief, and literally 
 squeezed him to death ! In the other instance, ‘ payment 
 for blood ’ was required and paid ; but the friends of 
 the deceased were not satisfied. At the close of the 
 morning service came the rumour that a fight was 
 imminent between the natives of Elevara (a wild set), 
 to whom the deceased lad belonged, and those on the 
 mainland, i.e., the relatives of the homicide. Life must 
 be sacrificed in payment for life. A message was sent 
 by Messrs. Lawes and Chalmers to the chiefs to keep the 
 peace. But, as we were sitting down to dinner, mingled 
 with [the laments over the squeezed warrior rose the 
 defiant shouts of battle ! Helter-skelter ran the mis- 
 sionaries into the melee. Mr. Chalmers seized the lad 
 whose life was sought by the arm, and dragged him out 
 of the fray. A friend then took him to the mission 
 house, where he was perfectly safe. Heathen-like, 
 knowing that he was to die, he had ornamented himself 
 with the utmost care. His face was painted with 
 plumbago, an enormously long nose-jewel was inserted 
 in the septum, two frontlets of wallaby-teeth were put 
 
MOURNING FOR THE DEAD. 
 
 265 
 
 on, also armlets and anklets ; bows and arrows in hand, 
 he resolved (though trembling all over) to die bravely. 
 When he found himself at the mission house he naively 
 remarked, ‘ I was not a bit afraid ! ’ Meantime, Messrs. 
 Lawes and Chalmers stood between the opposing parties, 
 by turns scolding, entreating, and threatening, until, at 
 length, spears, clubs, bows and arrows were put aside, 
 and a definite promise given by the chiefs that no blood 
 should be shed. The promise was kept. A new and 
 heavier ‘ payment for blood ’ was sent to the friends of 
 the deceased, and accepted. The corpse was now laid 
 by the side of the grave dug in the side of their islet, 
 and their heathen grief found its vent. To me it spoke 
 of blank, hopeless sorrow. First, the women lacerated 
 their faces, and beat their breasts most affectingly, 
 bewailing the untimely death of their young relative, 
 and then, in the madness of their grief, pressed the 
 matter out of the wounded thigh and smeared it over 
 their faces and persons, and even licked it up ! It was 
 a sickening sight. Euatoka afterwards went to the 
 grave and prayed with the friends. This quieted them 
 down ; so that ere sunset (to our great joy) the body 
 was buried, nevertheless, the lad wisely elected to 
 live with his white friends on the hill, to whose prompt 
 intervention he owes his life. 
 
 I11 deference to the wishes of the missionaries, drums 
 were not beaten for the warrior until midnight, when 
 the full wail for the dead began, and continued till 
 about ten a.m. of Monday ; — a scene never to be for- 
 gotten. I saw the nude body brought out of the house 
 at dawn, and laid beside a shallow grave hard by in 
 the public road. The widow sat at the head, besmeared 
 all over with ashes ; friends stood all round, and the 
 
266 THREE SUN DA YS AT PORT MORESBY. 
 
 wail recommenced. Evidently there was a song running 
 through it. Each man held in his left hand a drum, 
 the closed or upper end of which he heat with the 
 right in perfect unison. The effect was very plain- 
 tive and weird ; not a man moved an inch : but the 
 women crowded round, and with their long finger 
 nails scratched each others’ faces and bosoms till they 
 bled freely, evidently as a favour ! Then the hair of 
 the dead was plucked and shaved off as charms ; inde- 
 scribable phallic scenes followed. I was the only 
 stranger present, and longed to speak to them of Him 
 who is ‘ the resurrection and the life.’ Euatoka came 
 when the heathen ceremonial was ended, and conducted 
 a brief service for the sake of the living. The body 
 was then buried. At the side was set up a stake, to 
 which was tied the spear, club, bow and arrow, of 
 the deceased ; but broken, to prevent theft. A little 
 beyond was the grave of a woman : her cooking utensils, 
 grass petticoats, &c., hung up on the stake. This is 
 not dissimilar to the almost universal customs of the 
 Polynesians with regard to the dead. These articles 
 are intended for the use of the departed in the spirit- 
 world, the same wants being felt there as here. ‘ Their 
 foolish heart was darkened.’ 
 
 The Koitapuans are feared as sorcerers by all the 
 natives on the coast. One trick of theirs is to set a 
 mysterious light under the house, of course pricking 
 the person who is to be frightened. The mystery of 
 the light is, that it is well covered, and then exposed. As 
 the flooring is not well laid down, it is easy to insert 
 a reed or stick to startle the victim. The man, waking 
 up, suddenly sees the light between the crevices and 
 avers that he saw a ghost, and must therefore die. 
 
THE MEASURE OF SUCCESS. 
 
 267 
 
 Large gifts are brought from time to time by Motn 
 natives to these Koitapu sorcerers, to secure their 
 powerful favour. Some are believed to have power 
 over rain and drought. 
 
 If it be asked, How is it that such utter darkness 
 exists alongside of Gospel light ? let us recollect that in 
 Port Moresby, out of a population of eight hundred and 
 fifty, there are only fifty-three Christians. That no 
 life after all was taken, and that vile heathen customs 
 are curtailed, is something. ‘ Who hath despised the 
 day of small things ? ’ 
 
 The hope of the future lies in the reading of the 
 Hew Testament in their own tongue. The Gospel by 
 Matthew is in use ; Mark is under under revision. It 
 is impossible for darkness to reign where the study of 
 the Word of God becomes general, liarotonga teachers, 
 guided by faithful old ‘ Grannie,’ came to Port Moresby 
 from Eedscar Bay in November, 1873. A year after- 
 wards Mr. and Mrs. Lawes landed. From this date 
 there has heen no fighting or killing all along the 
 coast. 
 
( 268 ) 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 TO MAIVA AXD BACK. 
 
 The coast to Redscar Bay — The end of the Barrier Reef — Delena — 
 Vegetation — A book in the Roro dialect — A storm in the Gulf — 
 Maiva houses — Men practise tight-lacing — The rose-hill para- 
 keet — Echidna — Aplin Island. 
 
 Ox Thursday, February 14th, in company with Mr. 
 Chalmers, I started in the Ellengowan for Maiva, a 
 distance of 71 miles to the west. Beating past Mou- 
 rilyan Island, and getting so close to the low Fisherman 
 Islands that we could see the mission goats on it, we 
 sighted Bolibada. The scenery was Australian ; the 
 hills undulating and barren, hut dotted all over with 
 eucalypti. The village of Boera, standing on a pro- 
 montory, now opened up. It has a population of three 
 hundred and fifty ; here Piri has for many years been 
 teacher. The scenery now becomes much richer. The 
 wallaby-hunting grounds of Boera, towards the west, are 
 extensive and very beautiful. As Piri has a good boat 
 of his own, — a gift from the Churches of Rarotonga — 
 it was not necessary to pick him up for our projected 
 conference of missionaries and teachers at Port Moresby. 
 We therefore pressed on. To our right lay the village 
 of Lealea, standing at the entrance to a salt-water creek 
 leading to the hamlet of Kido, in Redscar Bay, thus 
 
REDSCAR BAY. 
 
 269 
 
 making Redscar Head an island. Lealea is very 
 unhealthy ; it supplies Port Moresby with fine mangrove 
 timber for house-building. As the sun went down we 
 enjoyed a'glorious view of Mount Owen Stanley, towering 
 13,205 feet above the level of the sea. 
 
 The whole of the next day (February 15) was wearily 
 spent in beating across Redscar Bay, — a place much 
 dreaded by boats and canoes (including the vast Gulf- 
 trading Icilcatoi), as there is no barrier reef to restrain 
 the violence of the ocean. I recalled my first sight of 
 Redscar Bay, in November, 1872, when, associated with 
 the Rev. A. W. Murray, I led the original band of 
 Polynesian evangelists to these shores. Blessed be 
 God, despite great loss of life and much suffering, the 
 mission has taken root, and in the hands of Messrs. 
 Lawes and Chalmers has proved a great success ! 
 
 After passing Redscar Head the character of the 
 country changes, becoming extremely fertile and heavily 
 timbered, but at the same time low and swampy. At 
 nightfall we were off Cape Suckling, only two miles 
 from shore. A long line of fishers’ torches lit up the 
 sandy beach, just as if we were off an island in the 
 Hervey Group. This is Naara, the territory of Queen 
 Koloka. On the following morning (16th), witli Cape 
 Possession and Wedge Hill in the far distance, Mr. 
 Chalmers pointed out the hill, only four miles off, on 
 the slope of which is the village house of this powerful 
 princess. Two of the new teachers will in a few weeks 
 be located at Naara, in fulfilment of a promise. 
 
 At nine A.M. we were sounding over the western 
 termination of the sunken Barrier Reef of New Guinea, 
 which stretches a distance of 140 miles. The reason 
 why it extends no further to the west is simply this : 
 
270 
 
 TO MAIVA AND BACK. 
 
 multitudinous fresh-water streams emptying themselves 
 into the Gulf of Papua, destroy the work of the coral 
 zoophytes. Several of these rivers were discovered by 
 Mr. Chalmers. The Gulf of Papua begins at Yule 
 Island and extends to Bampton Island. 
 
 At two r.M. we anchored in Yule Island, which is 
 a mile across, with excellent holding-ground everywhere. 
 On our right lay the village of Delena, where Henere 
 of Aitutaki is teacher. On our left was Motu Lavao, or 
 Yule Island, with its soft English scenery. Opposite 
 to where the Ellengowan anchored was the spot where 
 Signor D’Albertis spent eight months collecting birds, 
 insects, and reptiles. It is probable that only a timely 
 retreat saved his life ; for, shortly afterwards, Dr. James 
 and Captain Thorngren were murdered on the main- 
 land, just a mile from the deserted camp of the Italian 
 naturalist. The farewell words of the Yule Islanders 
 to D’Albertis {Maria lao /) were, ‘ Go ! go ! ’ not, as the 
 Signor translates it, ‘ Beturn, return.’ As later on in 
 the day I stood on the spot where poor Thorngren 
 perished, I recalled with emotion the many acts of 
 courtesy he showed to me in 1872, -when he was in the 
 temporary service of the mission. 
 
 The teacher’s boat promptly took us ashore. How 
 well these Hew Guinea men handled the oars ! It w r as 
 very pleasant to meet Henere and his wife in their own 
 spacious and comfortable home in Delena, they having 
 spent five years with me in the Institution at Barotonga. 
 They enjoy excellent health. Delena contains two 
 hundred and fifty inhabitants, speaking two dialects. 
 Part represent the true inhabitants of Yule Island ; 
 part a division of the great Boro tribe, who have broken 
 off from their friends. 
 
VEGETA TION A T DEL ENA. 
 
 271 
 
 Close to the teacher’s house stands a miniature hut, 
 covering the grave of Ivone, the friend of Tamate, who 
 presented the site to the mission. Inside were various 
 offerings for the use of the dead. We saw the voung 
 widow and child enter. Her husband had been dead 
 about two years, but she was still in mourning, i.c. had 
 been smeared all over — face, shaven head, petticoat, 
 and legs — with ashes. This is done twice a day. 
 
 At Maiva we noticed a young woman whose entire 
 person was enveloped in fine network, by way of mourning. 
 This will remain on her until it almost rots away. Of 
 course her skin was entirely blackened. A widow will 
 sometimes remain in mourning for five years, during 
 which period, it is said, she wears no ornaments and 
 performs no ablutions. Farther to the west, I am 
 assured that the blackened widow does not even wear a 
 network covering during her mourning. 
 
 Whilst Mr. Chalmers was busy with Henere, I 
 enjoyed a long walk through well-kept plantations of 
 yams, bananas, and sweet potatoes. The soil is of the 
 richest description. No taro grows near the coast. A 
 few cocoa-nut palms rose here and there, covered with 
 abundance of nuts. Jack fruit was plentiful. It is a 
 larger tree than the bread-fruit, and has undivided 
 leaves. The fruit, when baked, is generally eaten by 
 the aborigines of New Guinea and our teachers ; but I 
 do not care for it. The roasted seeds are very palatable. 
 The foliage of this valuable tree is very beautiful. The 
 Corclylinc terminalis grows spontaneously here, and 
 indeed throughout New Guinea : but, strangely enough, 
 the natives do not bake and chew the root. 
 
 The rising ground behind the village is heavily 
 timbered. It is almost impossible to make your way 
 
272 
 
 TO MAIVA AND BACK. 
 
 except by well-trodden native tracks, on account of the 
 dense undergrowth. Numerous birds of varied plumage 
 delighted the eye and ear, as they answered one another 
 in song or flew past. 
 
 A small book has been prepared by Maka (edited 
 and revised by the missionaries) in the Boro dialect, 
 which is spoken by about 8000 natives. The alphabet 
 consists of nineteen letters. A few young people have 
 learned to read; but as yet none have been baptized. 
 In this part of New Guinea the Sabbath services are 
 held at daylight and in the afternoon, as the heathens 
 spend the forenoon in weeding, planting, and fishing. 
 Henere has been here over a year, and has evidently 
 made a good impression, as all the natives attend 
 service. 
 
 A cup of tea prepared for us by the teacher’s wife 
 was very refreshing. We wanted to start at once in 
 the mission boat for Maiva, but it was eight P.M. ere we 
 could get a crew, as all the men of the village were out 
 fishing. At length we got off by torchlight, Mr. 
 Chalmers steering, as usual ; the dark outline of coast 
 on either side was scarcely visible. We had a distance 
 of 16 miles to pull, the greater part through the open 
 gulf. At midnight a terrible storm burst upon us ; 
 our boatmen asked permission to beach the boat at the 
 nearest point. This was done so clumsily that a big 
 roller swept clean over boat and all ! A messenger to 
 l’akia, the nearest teacher, soon brought assistance ; our 
 boat was then hauled up out of danger, and we made 
 our way through drenching rain to his comfortable 
 cottage. It was now in the small hours of morning. 
 A hot cup of tea, followed by a sound sleep, enabled us 
 to rise somewhat late on Sunday morning, none the 
 
MAIVA HOUSES. 
 
 273 
 
 worse for our mishap. At breakfast we met an English 
 clergyman and his wife, who had come in the Alice 
 Meade from Cooktown to get a glimpse of New 
 Guinea. 
 
 The population of the Maiva district cannot he less 
 than 5000. Amongst them, for eighteen months past, 
 have been located three Barotongan teachers, viz., 
 Maka, Tipoki, and Pakia. We walked through the 
 different villages constituting the district of Maiva; 
 each built apart, and ruled by its own chief. They are 
 built upon an alluvial plain, bounded by the ocean on 
 one side and by the Bidgely Bange, distant four miles, 
 on the other. This plain is a forest of cocoa-nut palms ; 
 bananas, sugar-cane, and sweet potatoes growing with 
 the utmost luxuriance between. 
 
 These Maiva villages are kept scrupulously clean. 
 Unlike the villages to the east, they are built some 
 distance inland. No hogs are allowed to root up the 
 soil, as at Port Moresby. Their dwellings, as every- 
 where else in New Guinea, are built on piles about 
 eight or ten feet above the ground. They are sub- 
 tantially built, but singularly arched. The house of 
 each chief is furnished with a platform, about two feet 
 from the ground, covered with a handsome cupola, but 
 open at the sides, and floored with split bamboo. Here 
 the men meet to discuss their tribal affairs. Between 
 the houses are small enclosures of young areca palms, 
 betel-pepper plants, variegated crotons, 1 red cor dy lines 
 and other shrubs. The jack-fruit tree grows luxuri- 
 antly. No wonder the Mai vans are a good-looking, 
 vigorous race. 
 
 1 In the Gulf, the light-coloured crotons on the person are tokens 
 of peace ; the dark, of war. 
 
 T 
 
2 74 
 
 TO MAIVA AND BACK. 
 
 The tliatch used for the roofs and sides of their 
 houses is the leaf of the sago palm, which “is not (as in 
 Polynesia) sewn on to the small rafters, but pressed 
 down firmly by long poles secured to the framework of 
 the house. The sago is a handsome palm, much thicker 
 than the cocoa-nut, but never so tall. Immense 
 pinnate spiny fronds completely cover the trunk until 
 the tree is aged. It is abundant in the swamps, 
 and is of rapid growth. The natives of New Guinea 
 prepare a coarse sort of arrowroot from the pith ; thus 
 enabling their wives to provide the household with 
 palatable cakes from time to time. The granulated 
 sago of commerce is unknown in New Guinea. The 
 pure white pith of the upper part is often eaten raw, 
 and is very agreeable to the taste. 
 
 I noticed a queer defence against mosquitoes. A 
 number of pieces of wiry matting supporting the base 
 of the cocoanut frond were rudely sewn together into 
 an immense bag, with an aperture for the owner to 
 crawl in, tying up the end. One was evidently 
 intended for a man and his wife ; another for a family 
 of four or five. Imagine the stench from their be- 
 smeared persons and the stifling atmosphere ! 
 
 Young men (never the women) in Maiva, and indeed 
 throughout New Guinea, indulge in the luxury of tight 
 lacinc. It is ridiculous to see a broad band round the 
 stomach of a dandy, the flesh above and beneath bulging- 
 out, by way of revenge. This band is made of strong 
 material, and when of sufficient length the ends are 
 dexterously woven together on the body. However 
 corpulent the dandy may become, this band indicates 
 his original dimensions. There is no way of removing 
 it except by the knife. 
 
CHRISTIAN WORK. 
 
 275 
 
 The grass petticoat of the women is a sufficient 
 covering in this sultry climate. The men wear a girdle 
 — a vast improvement upon Port Moresby manners. 
 
 New Guinea women, as soon as their infants are 
 born, bathe in the sea, without experiencing any 
 inconvenience. 
 
 At three i\M. we attended service. The church, stand- 
 ing as usual on piles, is neat and airy, doors taking the 
 place of windows, and is well floored. There is a 
 pulpit ornamented with appropriate designs all round. 
 Sixty-six squatted on the floor, while Pakia (a former 
 pupil of mine) conducted the service with dignity and 
 propriety in the Koro dialect. There are already three 
 candidates for baptism here. Several can read ; many 
 more sing nicely. The fact is, Pakia’s wife has a fine 
 voice, and knows how to teach others to sing. I believe 
 in sincjinrj the gospel, as well as in preaching it. The 
 Maivans seem thoroughly to appreciate their three 
 teachers as friends, but do not as yet care to attend 
 church. My brethren wisely say to the teachers, ‘ Per- 
 suade, pray, be patient ; but on no account bribe or pay 
 them to come.’ 
 
 Of the Maivan villages I give the palm to Tipoki’s, 
 for order and excellence. We inspected his church, also 
 Maka’s. A great deal of interest attaches to Maka’s 
 wife, as the first native of New Guinea engaged in the 
 Lord’s work. We also looked at the framework of a 
 house building for Mr. Chalmers. This would be an 
 extremely interesting sphere for a European missionary ; 
 but is it possible to preserve health, with those vast 
 swamps inland ? I greatly doubt it. 
 
 On Monday morning early (Feb. 18th) we arranged 
 to pull back to Hall’s Sound, there being not a breath 
 
276 
 
 TO MAIVA AND BACK. 
 
 of wind stirring, the teachers to follow in a large double 
 canoe. Tipoki kindly insisted on my accepting (as a 
 memorial of thirty years’ friendship) a rose-hill parrakeet . 1 
 which is twice the size of the Australian rosella. The 
 green one is the male; its mate being gorgeously 
 clothed in red and blue. The natives of New Guinea 
 
 ECHIDNA. 
 
 mistake them for different species. Maka presented me 
 with a spiny ant-eater, allied to the Echidna of Australia. 
 
 Two species of the hitherto strictly Australian genus 
 Echidna, or spiny anteater, have been lately discovered 
 in New Guinea; one 2 in the north-west part of the 
 
 1 Ecletus polychlorus (Scop.). 
 
 2 Tacliyglossus Bruijnii (Peters e Doria). 
 
THE ECHIDNA . 
 
 277 
 
 island, the other 1 at Port Moresby. My own specimen 
 from the sandy district of Maiva is identical with those 
 obtained at Port Moresby by Mr. Lawes. The Tctchy- 
 (jlossus Lawcsii of Southern New Guinea is distinguished 
 from the Australian species by having spines on the 
 head instead of hair, and by the rostrum or snout being 
 more elongated. In the north-western species the snout 
 is about three times the length of the head. 
 
 The Echidna has no teeth, feeding on ants and other 
 insects, which it deposits in its mouth by means of a 
 long extensile tongue. Being a burrowing mammal, it 
 is furnished with limbs and curved claws of great 
 strength. The rapidity with which it disappears in 
 sandy ground is almost magical. The male Echidna, 
 like the Platypus, is furnished with a spur on the hind 
 part. Mr. W. H. Caldwell has recently shown that 
 both forms are oviparous. The Echidna produces a 
 single egg at a birth. This interesting discovery 
 supplies the connecting link between reptiles and 
 mammalia. 
 
 Pakia had reserved for me the perfect skin of a 
 crocodile caught asleep on the beach. Two of his 
 household espying it, stealthily approached it, and 
 strangled it with a log of wood. Pakia ate the flesh, 
 and declares that it was excellent. He states that 
 several of his neighbours have been devoured by these 
 brutes during his brief residence at Maiva. 
 
 Amongst the birds given to me at Maiva was a 
 lovely little King Bird of Paradise ( Cicinnurus reyius, 
 Linn.). It was only six inches long, with a very short 
 tail. The entire upper surface, with the head and 
 throat, are of a glossy orange crimson. The breast and 
 1 Tachyglossus Lawesii. 
 
278 
 
 TO MAIVA AND BACK. 
 
 belly are silky white. Between the white of the breast 
 and the crimson of the throat is a band of rich metallic 
 green. Beneath each wing is a tuft of greyish-brown 
 feathers, tipped with emerald green. These plumes 
 can be spread out so as to form an exquisite fan on 
 each shoulder ; out of the tail shoot two wire-like shafts, 
 five inches in length; at the extremity of each is a 
 spiral disc of a metallic green colour on the upper 
 surface. 
 
 The female of the Cicinnurus regins, as, indeed, of all 
 the Birds of Paradise, is a very homely-coloured bird. 
 Young males are exactly like the female. The King Bird 
 of Paradise is said to be rare, and was once absurdly 
 supposed to exercise regal sway over the other species. 
 
 Two male Scale-breasted Paradise Birds (Craspedophora 
 magnified), southern variety, were obtained here. These 
 beautiful birds are twelve inches in length, with a long 
 curved bill, and are about the size of a large pigeon. 
 The upper part of the body is of a deep velvety black ; 
 the breast, throat, and top of the head are of a rich metallic 
 steel-blue. I 11 the black tail are two broad feathers of 
 the same metallic lustre as the breast, but fainter. 
 The under parts are of olive-green shading off into a 
 rich claret colour. This Bird of Paradise is now placed 
 with the Australian Bifle birds in the genus Ptiloris. 
 
 We did not get to the Ellengowan in Hall Sound till 
 half-past two p.m. Our clerical friend accompanied us, 
 at the invitation of Mr. and Mrs. Lawes. Later on in the 
 day, the teachers turned up with a plentiful supply of 
 limes, the fruit of trees originally planted on Yule Island 
 by the Honorable William Macleay, of Sydney, who 
 visited this place in the Chevert in 1875. They collected 
 them on Mau, on the mainland, the natives having, I 
 
APLIN ISLAND. 
 
 279 
 
 understood, introduced this valuable tree from Yule. 
 Great numbers of cray-fish had been purchased from 
 the Yule Islanders. At dawn of February 19th, Henere 
 and his wife came on board, and we sailed with a fair wind 
 for Port Moresby. Mr. Chalmers proposes to locate two 
 of the new band of teachers among the Kevari, a tribe 
 living under Cape Possession, adjoining Maiva, and 
 speaking the same dialect ; also two others among the 
 Motumotuans, who, ruled by the terrible Semese, 
 occupy the western side of Cape Possession. Until 
 lately each new teacher had to fell timber and erect his 
 own dwelling — a perilous undertaking for an unaccli- 
 matised man. Now no teacher enters upon his work 
 until his house is ready for him. The cost of erection 
 is paid for by the mission ; the building of it is a 
 guarantee that the tribe really desires a teacher. 
 
 Late in the afternoon we passed Aplin Island, famous 
 for turtle, also believed to be the temporary home of 
 ghosts from the mainland. We then entered a new 
 passage in the Barrier Beef, discovered by Captain 
 Liljeblad, and bearing his name. This discovery is of 
 great service to vessels sailing to Port Moresby from 
 Thursday Island and Cooktown. The narrowest part 
 is a mile and a half wide, with sufficient water for the 
 largest vessels, — there being not less than five fathoms 
 anywhere. Being overtaken by darkness, we anchored 
 inside. Two boats were now lowered, and, by dint of 
 hard pulling, in two hours we got in to Port Moresby. 
 As we passed through the narrow pass between 
 Mourilyan and the mainland, the utter darkness was 
 relieved by millions of fireflies, 1 the effect being 
 marvellously weird. 
 
 1 Allied to tlie Lampyris, or firefly of Europe. 
 
( 2 8o ) 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 A COASTING VOYAGE TO AR031A. 
 
 Pari — Kaili — A Papuan Venice — Mission premises at Hula — The 
 Kalo chiefs — Hulan weapons and ornaments — A Hula dandy — 
 Visit to Kalo — An excited crowd — Kerepunu — Canoe building — 
 Plantation work — Fine harbour at Kerepunu — Parimata Moassa 
 — Koapena the chief — Aged parents buried alive — A crocodile 
 adventure — The flying opossum — Dance at sun-rising — Love- 
 charms — Mangroves. 
 
 The conference having ended, on Friday, July 22nd, 
 we sailed eastward with a crowd of teachers, intending 
 to call at all the stations as far as Aroma, and distri- 
 buting the new teachers among their friends, with a 
 view to acclimatisation. 
 
 Favoured with a fair wind, we shot past Walter Bay, 
 sighting Pari. We did not anchor and go ashore, as it 
 is within easy ride from Port Moresby. As the 
 Ellangowan hugged the shore, it was pleasant to note 
 the succession of hill and vale and hay ; many scenes 
 of great beauty disclosed themselves. Mr. Chalmers 
 pointed out the spot where a Pari lad was killed and 
 partly devoured by a crocodile. The widowed mother, 
 the sisters, and other relatives ate raw the part saved, 
 to evince their love to the deceased ! 
 
 Keeping the Astrolabe Range (3824 feet high) on 
 our left, we pressed on. The scenery strongly reminded 
 
TUP USE LEI. 
 
 281 
 
 me of Australia. Ere long we were abreast of 
 Tupuselei, twelve miles in a direct line from Port 
 Moresby. This is the first of the famous Swiss-lake- 
 like villages of New Guinea I have seen. Several 
 very poor canoes came off to offer curios for sale. The 
 population is about 500 ; at present they are without a 
 teacher; Johnnie of Earotonga is to be stationed here. 
 It was a most novel and interesting sight — a village 
 
 DUBU AT TUPUSELEI. 
 
 entirely built in the sea, 300 yards from shore. There 
 is a remarkable clubu or sacred place, at Tupuselei. 
 
 Early in the afternoon, after passing the river Vailala, 
 we anchored at Ivaili, twenty-two miles from Port 
 Moresby, with 450 inhabitants. Eeboama, a native of 
 Savage Island, is teacher here. Kaili is charmingly 
 situated at the head of a spacious bay. This is the 
 second entirely marine village I have visited. It 
 consists of forty houses built on long poles in shallow 
 
282 
 
 A COASTING VOYAGE TO A TOMA. 
 
 water. There are four rows of these dwellings, the 
 teacher’s being the last. The church, which stands 
 apart between two rows, is connected with Keboama’s. 
 The road to church is merely one row of poles stuck in 
 the sea, cross-sticks connecting the sacred edifice with 
 the first series of aerial dwellings. It must be a 
 ticklish thing to walk to church by such a road. There 
 is no communication between the other rows except by 
 canoes or swimming. 
 
 We entered one or two curious dwellings. Their 
 valuables consisted of grass petticoats, armlets, spears, 
 clubs, axes, and nets, with a few earthenware pots for 
 cooking. We laughed at seeing a fine hog in a pen 
 between two houses ; the teacher feeds his poultry on 
 the platform of his dwelling. The only reason assigned 
 for erecting these marine villages is fear of their inland 
 foes, and that their fathers did so before them. 
 
 The church, like all other buildings at Kaili, is a frail 
 construction of sticks, sides and roof thatched with sago 
 palm leaf. It is spacious, but has neither pulpit nor 
 seats. As we paced up and down inside, it gently 
 swayed to and fro in the breeze. The teacher formerly 
 lived on shore, but Mr. Lawes wisely insisted that he 
 should live in the midst of his people. These sea- 
 villages have one obvious advantage over those built 
 ashore — they are free from mosquitoes. 
 
 There are no catechumens at Kaili : a few children 
 can read. Beboama, however, regards his people as 
 being hopeful. At the back of the range of hills facing 
 Kaili is a warrior tribe named Manukolo. Tarther 
 inland still, on the Astrolabe, are the Koiari — not very 
 numerous — who are kind to strangers. Utterly unlike 
 the coast natives, they neither beg nor steal. They are 
 
A PAPUAN VENICE. 
 
 2S3 
 
 thorough mountaineers ; they are supposed to be the 
 original lords of the soil, and are the makers of the 
 stone adzes. 
 
 Ivairangi walked inland a short distance one after- 
 noon. nesting awhile under a tree, she felt greasy 
 drops falling upon her head and neck. She looked up, 
 and to her horror saw a recent mummy exposed to the 
 sun ! It was a man of Ivaili. 
 
 Passing on our way eastward, we saw a number of 
 old piles, indicating the original site of Ivaili before 
 they were driven away by the Manukolo. Later on we 
 anchored at the village of Kapakapa, consisting in truth 
 of two hamlets half a mile apart, thirty-three miles east 
 of Port Moresby. This is my third Swiss-lake-like 
 village in New Guinea. It has a population of 450. 
 Ioane, a native of Savage Island, is their teacher. A 
 fine plantation of yams, bananas, and sweet potatoes 
 lies opposite to the village, the property of Ioane, who 
 thus sets his flock a good example of industry. I 
 was struck with a hut standing apart from all others 
 in the middle of the bay, and learned that it was built 
 by a man who had quarrelled with all his friends ! 
 
 Fowls and hogs are fed, and evidently thrive, in these 
 remarkable dwellings. Our boat was pulled between the 
 rows of dwellings, Mr. Chalmers occasionally throwing a 
 handful of small pieces of tobacco into the sea. Men, 
 women, and children all dived down for the coveted 
 prize, and in a friendly way contended with each other 
 for it. 
 
 This Papuan Venice consists of forty houses. Seven 
 or eight miles inland, at the other side of the range, is 
 Taroa, where a new station is to be started by our two 
 new Savage Island teachers. 
 
284 A COASTING VOYAGE TO AROMA. 
 
 After dark, on the same eventful day, Captain Lil- 
 jeblad succeeded in making Hula, a distance of fifty-two 
 miles from Port Moresby. The Ellengowan anchored a 
 mile and a half from the village, on account of a reef of 
 coral. A boat was lowered, and we pulled ashore. Eight 
 glad was I again to meet the teacher Itama and his wife 
 — natives of Manihiki, but educated at Earotonga — who 
 two years ago came here. They are in no degree the 
 worse for the climate. After a cup of tea we spent a 
 couple of hours in conversation with the teacher and 
 visitors. Meanwhile a large feast was being prepared 
 for the large party of native guests who accompanied 
 us. 
 
 The mission house is built on lofty piles ; it is 
 substantially put together, and very cool. It was put 
 up by Taria, one of the teachers murdered some time 
 ago at Kalo. The late Eeverend T. Beswick occupied 
 one end ; Taria and his wife the other. It was curious 
 from the verandah to watch the fireflies rising from the 
 soil like tiny globes of light. At times the whole place 
 seemed alive with them. I placed one on its back 
 on the table inside, under the glare of a powerful 
 lamp. The phosphorescent light scarcely paled. It 
 is emitted from the abdomen only. 
 
 On the morning of Saturday (Feb. 23rd) I inspected 
 the mission premises, and found them to be a model of 
 neatness ; the soil is extremely fertile. Hula, like 
 Tupuselei, Ivaili, and Kapakapa, is built in the sea. It 
 contains about 600 people. With our clerical friend I 
 went, in a canoe, through this long village, or rather 
 two villages. Wishing to look at some of their houses, 
 we climbed — not without some difficulty — up on to a 
 platform ten feet above the sea. On this wretchedly 
 
HULA HOUSES. 
 
 2S5 
 
 insecure place they dance every night by torchlight. 
 By clay the younger members of the family sit and 
 smoke there, regardless of the hot sun. Beyond is a 
 shaded place for the parents. Climbing up a short 
 ladder, you enter by a small door into their only sleeping 
 apartment, which is very dark. A portion of it, how- 
 ever, is marked off ; here the daily cooking is done, the 
 accumulated ashes preventing the house from catching 
 fire. The flooring is made from the sides of old canoes 
 well adzed and secured to the framework of the house by 
 rattan cane. One would surmise that their bones would 
 be sore with lying through the night on bare boards ; such, 
 however, is not the case. Their ornaments and petti- 
 coats, weapons and chatties, hooks, lines, and seines, 
 are all in their proper places. The thatch is either of 
 sago or nipa-palm leaf. All along, outside the ridging, 
 sprouting cocoanuts are kept ready for use. Ornaments 
 occasionally dangle from the extremity over the door- 
 way. I noticed everywhere small oysters adhering to 
 that part of the mangrove which is submerged ; these 
 become poisonous through contact with the mangrove. 
 
 Each dwelling at Hula is connected with the next by 
 means of a single loose plank. A rail sometimes assists 
 the hand in steadying the body of the adventurous 
 traveller. It was interesting to observe how they ran 
 from one house to another in perfect safety. We too 
 achieved the feat, not, however, without fear of getting 
 a ducking. 
 
 The church, happily, is built on shore, at some 
 distance from the manse. It is large and altogether 
 out of repair. It boasts no pulpit. The murder of 
 Taria threw back the work sadly. It is to be hoped 
 that a better day is dawning upon Hula, as Itama and his 
 
286 
 
 A COASTING VOYAGE TO AROMA. 
 
 wife have a good acquaintance with their language, 
 which differs so greatly from that spoken at Port 
 Moresby that other books are used. The alphabet 
 consists of twenty letters. A book of Scripture extracts, 
 with twenty-one hymns, testifies to the hard work 
 accomplished by the brethren. 
 
 On our return to the mission house we found Mr. 
 Chalmers in earnest consultation with the three prin- 
 cipal chiefs of Ivalo. One of them was the son and 
 successor of Kuiaipo, the instigator of that cruel 
 massacre. The question put to them was this : — You 
 have often said, ‘ Let bygones be bygones.’ ‘ Give us 
 another teacher, else we shall think you have not 
 forgiven us.’ ‘ Say now as chiefs, in the presence of all 
 here, whether you are sincere. Do you really care for 
 a new teacher ? ’ The upshot was a promise to take 
 great care of the new man, Tau, who was then brought 
 forward. Tau, however, is not to be in the charge of 
 the son of Kuiaipo, but of another chief whose face was 
 open and pleasing. The cousin and factotum of the 
 future protector of Tau is a magnificent man, reminding 
 one of some of the finest Greek sculptures in the British 
 Museum. Mr. Chalmers nicknamed him ‘ Saul,’ as he 
 is a head taller than the rest. Hearing one day that 
 the warriors of his clan, when travelling inland, were 
 surrounded by their foes, he rushed single-handed upon 
 them, and succeeded in carrying off his men in safety. 
 
 But, apart from these three chiefs and ‘ Saul,’ 
 squatted an elderly man in deep mourning (i.e., smeared 
 all over with ashes, and wearing a frontlet of curiously 
 threaded seeds dangling over his eyes) for his son, shot 
 by the Wolverene This man afterwards considerately 
 sent a message to Tamate to say that he meant to have 
 
CHIEFS OF HULA AND HALO. 
 
 287 
 
 his skull yet, in revenge ! His visit to-day is supposed 
 to be in sign of peace. Anyhow, he gladly received his 
 share of the good things going. Finally it was agreed 
 that a house should be forthwith built for the new 
 teacher. To cement the peace, it was engaged that ice 
 should visit Kalo on Monday, to fix upon the site of the 
 house. 
 
 I noticed the tattoo marks on the chests and backs of 
 the chiefs, and was informed that each indicated a life 
 violently taken. Some were almost covered with these 
 savage medals of honour. 
 
 The chiefs of Hula and Kalo wore artificial flowers in 
 their hair, made of the long feathers of the great white 
 cockatoo, kept solely for that purpose. The white 
 feathers contrasted finely with their black hair. On 
 the upper part of the arm the universal woven armlet 
 was worn. In it were stuck sticks of tobacco &c., 
 given to them. But in one instance a short piece of 
 bamboo, beautifully ornamented with yellow and scarlet 
 parrot feathers, was inserted. I could not guess its 
 use ; but Tamate explained that it was a bamboo knife, 
 held by a string between the teeth, in battle. The 
 instant a foe falls, a strip is torn off the bamboo, in 
 order to give it a new edge, and his throat cut. As 
 Tamate playfully showed me its use, the delight of 
 these savages was unbounded. 
 
 From Port Moresby to Hula the soil is very poor. 
 Hula and the adjoining district of Kalo are very rich. 
 Kerepunu again is very poor, whilst the Aroma district 
 beyond is rich. This would be a fine station for a 
 white missionary, on account of the densely populated 
 region lying beyond, and the abundance of food. 
 Formerly the Hula natives, like one section of the 
 
288 
 
 A COASTING VOYAGE TO AROMA . 
 
 Kerepunu people, purchased all their bananas, yams 
 &c., with their fish. Stimulated, however, by the 
 example of Taria, they have latterly made plantations 
 for themselves. The Bcvrringtonia spcciosa and Ery- 
 thrina grow freely here. I know no more striking 
 sight in nature than these noble forest trees covered 
 with blossoms. Tauraki shot a fine brown hawk very 
 destructive to poultry. 
 
 We spent a pleasant Sabbath at Hula. The three 
 services of the day were well attended ; the murderers 
 of our teachers were present. Mr. Chalmers in the after- 
 noon spoke strongly about the immodesty of the If ulans ; 
 several of the heathen hung down their heads in shame. 
 There are no baptized natives or catechumens at this 
 village. Many of the young people can read well; 
 some can write and cipher, and have a knowledge of 
 geography. 
 
 A dugong having been captured in a strong net on 
 the previous evening, there was considerable excitement 
 about the correct division of the spoil, every one 
 expecting to get a taste. On our voyage inside the 
 sunken Barrier Beef we sighted one of these interesting 
 animals. Three large turtle, too, were seen, having 
 come up to breathe, but dived down as soon as they 
 noticed us. 
 
 The Hulans are fairer than the Motu tribe and the 
 Maivans. The petticoat used by the Hula women is 
 exactly that formerly worn in the Ellice group — grass 
 (plenty of it too), ornamented by alternate red and 
 yellow strips of pandanus leaf. The effect is very 
 pleasing. The tattooing is simply perfect, and certainly 
 has upon the mind the effect of clothing. Married 
 women have a necklace or chain tattooed round the 
 
TA TTOOINC. 
 
 289 
 
 neck ; each pattern lias a distinct name. It is done with 
 a view to marriage, to please the future husband, who 
 has to pay liberally tor it. It is done by women, as we 
 subsequently saw at Aroma ; a thorn is used instead of 
 human bone. In the Pacific the operators are males : 
 
 A HULA DANDY. 
 
 hence the objections l’aised by missionaries to this 
 practice. 
 
 In the evening a young man came up to us horned ! 
 It was the upper part of the beak of the hornbill, with 
 a portion of the skin tied to the forehead. This was 
 part of his toilet for the dance. I thought of David’s 
 words, ‘ My horn hast Thou exalted,’ &c. Amongst the 
 crowd sitting uninvited on the verandah was an elderly 
 
 U 
 
290 A COASTING VOYAGE TO AROMA. 
 
 woman wearing an immense necklace slung over her 
 left shoulder. It consisted of the vertebrae of her 
 brother, strung together as a mark of affection. She 
 did not at all object to our handling it. Another day 
 Mr. Chalmers pointed out to me a widow carrying 
 about with her in a small basket the skull of her 
 deceased husband. Now this husband had in all five 
 Avives, so that three inferior wives had to be content 
 with the finger, and toe, and other small bones — holes 
 drilled to admit the string — as necklaces. Number five 
 wore his hair only. 
 
 On Monday, February 25 th, our two boats started 
 for Kalo, distant seven miles. In one — that in which 
 the massacre took place — Mr. Chalmers wisely put one of 
 the principal chiefs of Hula and the wives (Hula Avomen ) 
 of the Kalo chiefs ; in the second boat a second Hula 
 chief Avitli five A\ T hites, tAvo of Avhom Avere ladies. If 
 you are really on a peaceful expedition in this country, 
 women must form part of the company. 
 
 As we crossed Hood Bay, Mr. Chalmers pointed out 
 the dividing line betAveen the Hula and Kalo districts. 
 The coast Avas Ioav and covered Avith cocoanut palms, 
 screw pines, &c. At the back Avere Ioav hills ; further 
 back still, near to Kalo, ran the Ivuiaipo Kange. In 
 the far distance rose the grand Macgilivray Eange, 
 towering above all. At length Ave entered the Kemp- 
 Welch Kiver, which is half a mile across at its mouth, 
 both sides lined Avith the most luxuriant vegetation. 
 The nipa palm rose up out of the water on our left. 
 In front of us, a dozen yards from where Ave landed, in 
 a grove of cocoanut trees, Avas the fatal spot Avhere so 
 many of our people cruelly perished by the hands of 
 those whom they sought to bless. The three Kalo 
 
KALO AND ITS DUBUS. 
 
 291 
 
 chiefs who visited us at Hula, with a few of their 
 followers, greeted us, and conducted us to the village. 
 [ was struck with the evident fertility of the soil. The 
 jack -fruit tree, the familiar Inocarpus cdulis, and the 
 Broussonetia of the Pacific, grew wild. Several young 
 Megapodii, or mound- building birds, were disporting 
 themselves in an open space, but hastily retreated on 
 seeing us. Further on was the spot where Materua’s 
 boy was speared to death by his own man-nurse. 
 Nearer still to the village stood the posts of the 
 teacher’s house. How sadly memories of the past rose 
 before our minds ! We made straight for the house of 
 Kulu, the chief in whose care Tau will be placed. This 
 village, like those at Maiva, is built at a distance from 
 the sea ; streets are regularly laid out and well swept, 
 with small gardens between. Kulu gave us a most 
 refreshing drink of cocoanut water, as we all sat with 
 him on the platform in front of his well-built house. 
 We then walked through this populous village, which 
 certainly contains 1000 inhabitants. We came to the 
 dubu, or place for feasting and worship, being merely 
 an open space in the centre of the village, sacred 
 to the gods. An immensely high pole stood at one 
 extremity of the dubu. We w r ere assured that on 
 certain occasions bananas, cocoanuts, sugar-cane, &c., 
 are piled up until its top is reached. There were no 
 human skulls, as in many dubus. 
 
 To avoid giving offence, we visited the young chief 
 whose father, Kuiaipo, instigated the massacre of our 
 teachers. We sat with him, chatted, and drank cocoa- 
 nut water at his hands. We next set off to determine 
 the site of the new teacher’s house. It is to be close to 
 the house of Kulu, his future protector. This done, we 
 
292 
 
 A COASTING VOYAGE TO AROMA. 
 
 rambled about and came upon the site of Kuiaipo’s house, 
 the posts sawn to the earth by the Wolverene people ; 
 also his grave neatly palisaded in. Mrs. Lawes was 
 standing alone looking at the crowd, when a native 
 chanced to come out of the bush close to her. At this 
 first sight of a white lady, he was utterly terrified, and 
 rushed back into the bush to hide himself. No corner 
 of the village escaped us ere we returned to Kulu’s 
 house. A few gifts were now distributed, and the 
 future prospective payment for Tau’s dwelling agreed 
 upon. It was a pleasant sight from the elevated plat- 
 form of Kulu’s house to see all Kalo before us, standing 
 in various groups. The men were breathing Greek 
 statues, the women (as elsewhere in New Guinea) far 
 inferior. The freshness of youth soon fades ; the 
 unassisted care of the family, plantation, and cooking 
 make them prematurely old. I noticed a good deal of 
 skin disease. 
 
 It was now time to depart, so we walked slowly 
 toward the river and boat, escorted by the entire 
 population. A woman and child hid themselves hastily 
 in the sleeping apartment from the whites ! Two young 
 men whose elbows I accidentally touched, visibly 
 shuddered and clean bolted. I coaxed them back with 
 tobacco, and thus made them friends. The son of 
 Kuiaipo asked Tamate to stay whilst he cooked a pig 
 for him. Cooked vegetables were presented ; but 
 Tamate whispered in my ear, ‘ Taste nothing ; they are 
 expert poisoners.’ The crowd of men, women, and 
 children was great. In their excitement the children 
 rushed into the river, although the well-known resort 
 of crocodiles, splashing about like South Sea Island 
 boys and girls. Hundreds of adults stood on the banks, 
 
MISSION REOPENED AT KALO. 
 
 293 
 
 large numbers standing round the boats, up to their 
 waists in water, selling food or curios. I leisurely 
 surveyed the novel scene. The one cry was, Kuku ! 
 (tobacco). The excitement increased terribly. At 
 length Kulu said quietly to Tamate, * Go, quick ! ’ At 
 this his tall cousin shoved off the boat. Our second 
 boat grounded, but, happily, with the aid of our tall 
 friend, our men got her off ; and right glad were we that 
 all ended so well, as we pulled out of the Kemp-Welch 
 Eiver into the middle of Hood Bay, to meet the 
 Ellengowan. 
 
 When it became known among the new teachers that 
 it was proposed to reopen the mission at Kalo, the Sa- 
 moans volunteered for the forlorn hope. The Raiatians, 
 too, earnestly begged to be permitted to go. The Raro- 
 tongans came privately to me to intercede with Messrs. 
 Lawes and Chalmers that the post of honour and peril 
 might not be given to others. Messrs Lawes and 
 Chalmers wisely said, ‘ As Rarotongans were martyred, 
 let Rarotongans have the preference. If they show 
 the white feather, let others go.’ 
 
 At half-past four p.m. we anchored at the entrance to 
 Hood’s Lagoon, opposite the villages of Kerepunu. There 
 are seven distinct villages in a cluster, with a total popula- 
 tion of 1500. Hood’s Lagoon is an enchanting scene. 
 The entrance is only half a mile across. The lagoon 
 itself is about three miles deep, and as many across. The 
 river Dundee empties itself into it. This neighbour- 
 hood is noted for crocodiles, hiding in brackish creeks 
 and fresh-water swamps. At night they may be heard 
 roaring on the beach, picking off the immense hogs of 
 the Kerepunu natives, and occasionally their owners 
 too. 
 
294 A COASTING VOYAGE TO A TOMA. 
 
 We landed among carpenters at work upon Gulf- 
 sailing canoes of vast proportions — a single log being 
 over fifty feet in length and standing four feet high. 
 Here lived Anederea, whose winning ways gained him 
 the love of all. The Kalo massacre upset everything. 
 I was introduced to the people as 1 the father ’ of 
 Anederea’s wife, because she was for very many years 
 a pupil of Mrs. Gill. Mara of Rurutu is teacher here 
 now. The mission house is built of lath and plaster on 
 the summit of a hill at Kerepunu Point. It is exqui- 
 sitely clean — a good example to the natives. Not a 
 weed could be seen anywhere in Mara’s garden. Pew 
 sights are more pleasing than that from the verandah 
 of this pretty cottage — ocean, villages, plantations, and 
 Nature in all her tropical luxuriance. 
 
 Mr. Chalmers piloted us through the seven villages, 
 which are well worth looking at. The houses of the 
 chiefs have spires, one having a double spire ; every- 
 where order and neatness prevailed. One village is 
 inhabited only by fishermen, who, owning no land, fish 
 day and night, and dispose of the results to their 
 neighbours, who never fish. The fact is, the fisher 
 village consists of fugitives, who on that condition were 
 permitted to live amongst the true lords of the soil. 
 They are a set of born traders : the wo men (most of 
 the men were away plying their craft) craved us to buy 
 fish just out of the sea, unavailingly dangling the 
 supposed irresistible bait before our eyes. 
 
 Several houses' at Kerepunu stand in the sea, like the 
 four ocean villages already described. It seems the 
 Hula people started from this place some years ago, a 
 very few remaining at the old spot. In proof of the 
 correctness of this statement, the Hula people have no 
 
PLANTATIONS AT KEREPUNU. 
 
 295 
 
 dubu, but on great occasions go to their ancient dubu 
 at lverepunu. 
 
 The plantations are well cared for. We came upon a 
 number of men in the bush preparing the soil for 
 planting. The long grass had been burnt off : now for 
 the digging up of the hard ground. Several men stood 
 in a row, each provided with a sharp-pointed strong stake. 
 These are driven into the soil in unison ; in another 
 second the hard clods are flying upwards all along the 
 line, reminding one of the perfect regularity with which 
 a man-of-war’s crew dig into the water. These men 
 went on with their employment without paying the . 
 slightest heed to us strangers. The pathways from 
 village to village are straight and well kept. The 
 tamanid of Polynesia attains to a great size in this 
 part of New Guinea ; the Urtica argentea, or nettle 
 plant of the Eastern Pacific, was seen ; also the 
 Broussonetia popyrifera and other familiar South Sea 
 Island productions. In New Guinea, Australian and 
 Polynesian flora meet ; with these are intermingled a 
 vegetation found in neither. 
 
 These Kerepunu natives purchase the right of felling 
 timber for canoes of the inhabitants of the interior near 
 the streams ; they then transport the logs to their canoe 
 building yard opposite the anchorage, and dig them out 
 with their jade adzes. Just now a quarrel is raging, the 
 carpenters asserting that they have paid sufficient 
 armlets for this season, the interior natives denying this, 
 and refusing to allow the shore natives to get new 
 timber until more valuables are forthcoming. These 
 Kerepunu natives are a fine race ; one man measured 
 six feet four inches. There are five chiefs at this place ; 
 
 1 Calophyllum inophyllum. 
 
296 A COASTING VOYAGE TO AROMA. 
 
 they remained about the mission house till we left. A 
 few kindly words of exhortation were given them by 
 Tamate, and trifling presents bestowed. 
 
 The attendance at Sabbath services here is about 100, 
 but as yet there are no catechumens. May the ‘ Spirit 
 of God move upon the face of the waters ! ’ 
 
 There is first-rate anchorage here for vessels of all 
 sizes. H.M.S. Diamond anchored here in safety. 
 There is in the harbour, however, a block of coral which 
 might easily be blasted. The impression amongst 
 those who know New Guinea best is that the future 
 capital must be either at Hall Sound, Port Moresby, or 
 Kerepunu. The drawback to Port Moresby is the 
 range of hills at the back, making the interior difficult 
 of access. Hall Sound is near a vast extent of fertile 
 land, but very unhealthy, on account of the swamps 
 beyond Delena. At Kerepunu it is difficult to see how 
 a site could be obtained, on account of the dense native 
 population. The advantage of Kerepunu is that the 
 interior — a most valuable district — is easily accessible. 
 My own impression is that Port Moresby will be the 
 capital, as the harbour is so large and safe. For the 
 natives’ own sake it would be wise, were it possible, to 
 leave them alone for one generation, so that the 
 civilising power of Christianity might have free play. 
 
 After a refreshing night’s rest in Maru’s cottage, and 
 a delicious bath in the morning, on Tuesday, Feb. 2d, 
 we started in our boat for Parimata. The Ellengowan 
 sailed outside the Barrier Eeef, on account of a vast 
 mass of coral inside. When it is possible for her to 
 thread her way inside, the anchor may be dropped 
 anywhere in perfect safety. But dangers are innumerable, 
 despite all that has been done in the way of surveying. 
 
PA RIM A TA. 
 
 297 
 
 We arrived at Parimata at a quarter-past nine A.M., after 
 pulling the entire distance of twelve miles. Teinaore, 
 the teacher here, is an active fellow, and has built 
 himself a good native cottage on lofty piles. A crowd 
 of native hangers-on and one Chinaman welcomed us. 
 Knowing that several of his own countrymen were to 
 stay with him for a time, to get acclimatised, Teinaore 
 very kindly built a new aerial dwelling for their accom- 
 modation. I saw the thatch (sago palm-leaf) put on — so 
 easily, compared with the laborious sewing of pandanus 
 leaf, to which I have been accustomed. The pathway 
 to the house was a bridge from the verandah of the 
 mission house. Another, and somewhat insecure, 
 bridge conducted us to the kitchen, which is also aerial. 
 A great feast was preparing, by way of payment to 
 the workpeople. A well-stocked garden of bananas 
 surrounds the mission-house. Native lads were wrap- 
 ping up the bunches in dry leaves, on account of the 
 depredations of flying foxes and cockatoos at night. 
 The result is that the bananas, when ripe, lack the sweet 
 flavour of fruit exposed to the sun. 
 
 Parimata is the first village in the Aroma district. 
 We visited the church, and then inspected the village. 
 After getting some refreshment, we started off for a 
 walk through the entire Aroma district, Terai Yaine 
 being our guide. We left Tamate behind, to attend to 
 mission business. We first noticed several young jute 
 plants. It is a leguminous creeper of rapid growth. 
 The plant is cut at the joints (where it roots again) 
 and the fibre removed. This fibre is exposed to the 
 sun by day and the dew at night, exactly as the 
 Polynesians treat the fibre of their Urticci anjentea, and 
 then twisted into string by rubbing it between the 
 
298 
 
 A COASTING VOYAGE TO AROMA. 
 
 palm of the hand and the thigh. The root of the New 
 Guinea jute plant is eaten. Acres of jute may be seen 
 in the interior. This fibre is used for making their 
 kaiapa or net bags. My impression is that this will be 
 a valuable industry in the future, seeing that a well- 
 known Dundee firm (to whom a specimen was sent) 
 pronounced it to be the finest jute in the world. 
 
 After walking through Mama’s village, we made for 
 Moapa, which is in truth a perfect cluster of villages. 
 The population is very dense. Matina is succeeded by 
 Taputu, on account of ill-health. The mission house is 
 finely situated, overlooking the villages. Later on, Mr. 
 Chalmers joined us, with that renowned chief Koapena, 
 when I had the pleasure of ringing a fine bell presented 
 by the Eev. J. Jefferis of Sydney. 
 
 The clergyman’s wife accompanied us on our march. 
 The women and children were greatly puzzled at 
 first, but as soon as they were informed of the fact, 
 they clustered around her. Crowds of pretty little 
 girls crowded, to have the privilege of touching our 
 hands, and to beg for kukio (tobacco). At length we 
 arrived at Koapena’s house, which is a very substantial 
 structure. This chief has been to Cooktown, and has 
 seen a little of the ways of white people. Some years 
 ago he led the attack on a Chinese junk. It was the 
 Aroma people who murdered Mr. Irons and his friend 
 in Cloudy Bay. Evidently they are a wild and cruel 
 tribe ; but Koapena has passed his word that there shall 
 be no more killing of white men. The late teacher had 
 great influence over him for good ; may his successor 
 be equally wise ! Koapena may be fifty years old, 
 muscular and well-proportioned. There is a curl of 
 scorn about his upper lip. He has lately been bereaved 
 
KO A PENA'S PROWESS. 
 
 299 
 
 of two wives, but three remain to solace this much- 
 feared chief. He has numbers of children and grand- 
 children. He is a brave fellow. The Aroma district 
 is terribly infested with crocodiles. We were assured 
 that on two occasions he contrived to catch the sleeping 
 saurian by the tail, and held it firmly over his shoulder, 
 shouting lustily to his companions to kill the brute, 
 which that day furnished them with a feast. It is 
 in this way he has gained great respect amongst his 
 countrymen. Numbers of crocodiles are annually 
 eaten by the natives of New Guinea. 
 
 We visited Koapena’s dubu. I counted eighteen 
 skulls on it, suspended as ornaments ; some of them 
 were recent, possibly they belonged to the unfortunate 
 Chinamen already referred to. Our conductress, Terai 
 Yaine, pointed out to us two villages in juxtaposition, 
 in feud with each other, lately in open war — much as if 
 one side of a street should be at war with the side 
 opposite to it. We next visited Terai’s village, the 
 farthest occupied on this side, until we came to South 
 Cape. In all we travelled through six villages that 
 day. 
 
 We did not leave the mission house that day until 
 we saw the new teacher and his wife installed inside 
 with all their goods, and with every prospect of comfort. 
 Koapena promised to shield them from harm. In 
 church Mr. Chalmers begged the Moapa people to 
 attend to the teaching of Taputu, and to send their 
 children to be taught. 
 
 In Aroma it is customary, Matina told me, to bury 
 alive decrepit parents and grandparents. He once saw 
 a grave dug for an aged woman by her grandson. With 
 his own strong arms he deposited her in it, despite her 
 
300 A COASTING VOYAGE TO AROMA. 
 
 tears and feeble resistance. At this moment Matina 
 came up, and remonstrated with him, saying, ‘ Why are 
 you so cruel ? She is not dead.’ The grandson 
 replied, * She cannot live. She is already as good as 
 dead.’ He then filled up the grave, and trod the earth 
 down upon the living victim, and went home, apparently 
 well satisfied with himself. In pleasing contrast to 
 this, amongst the Motuans the greatest respect is paid 
 by grown-up sons to their aged parents. 
 
 On our way back to Parimata in the afternoon, I was 
 astonished at the numbers of natives — especially women 
 — in mourning. A frontlet and eardrops of Coix 
 lachrymaus seeds, worn by males only, were very 
 graceful, the light grey relieving the intense blackness 
 of the face and body ; but the females were doleful 
 objects. Widowers sleep in hammocks. Numbers of 
 Aroma natives perish annually by brown and black 
 serpents, which are very numerous in this district. 
 
 It was at Parimata I first saw the red cedar tree 
 ( Cedrela australis ) of New Guinea, which is plentiful 
 throughout the Aroma district and on to South Cape. 
 A Melbourne firm is endeavouring to utilise it in 
 commerce ; the difficulty will be the obtaining of 
 labour. 
 
 After a refreshing cup of tea, we gossiped with the 
 teacher Teinaore and his wife. Amongst other things 
 he told us the following : — His wife went to the beach 
 at break of day . 1 In the twilight she observed what 
 she took to be a log of wood lying on the black sand. 
 To her horror, the log became animated and rushed 
 upon her, being in reality a hungry crocodile watching 
 for prey. A smart blow on the neck from the serrated 
 1 The natives all rise before day. 
 
A CROCODILE ADVENTURE. 
 
 301 
 
 tail laid her on the sand ; she was then grabbed by the 
 right thigh and carried into the sea. The paws with 
 their sharp claws were used, not the jaws of the reptile. 
 The poor woman had nothing in her hand to defend 
 herself with ; she, however, furiously beat its paw with 
 her clenched fist, and so much alarmed it that it 
 relaxed its hold for a second, and retired to a little 
 distance, still intent upon its prey. Teinaore heard 
 the screams of his wife at the first, and happily arrived 
 at her side just as the reptile loosed its grip. The loud 
 voice of the husband and the splashing of the water so 
 alarmed the crocodile that it made off into deep water. 
 As soon as Teinaore had deposited his wife in the care 
 of friends, he ran for his rifle, rammed two bullets into 
 it, and waded into the shallow water in search of his 
 scaly foe. It rose just where it had previously 
 disappeared, and received both bullets in the eye ; but 
 it w r as not until the following day that the body 
 was secured. The slugs testified to its identity. This 
 crocodile measured nine feet ; its body was of course 
 eaten by the natives. The husband insisted on our 
 seeing the deep scars, eight in all. Possibly they 
 were the result not of one grip, but two, or else by 
 both paws. A month elapsed ere she quite recovered. 
 My own impression is that the crocodile would never 
 have relaxed its grip for any blow that a female hand 
 could inflict ; but that her release was owing chiefly to 
 the shouts and splashing of the water by Teinaore. 
 
 Terai’s village, the last in the Aroma district, is 
 seventy-six miles east of Port Moresby ; Maka’s village 
 at Maiva is seventy-one miles west of Port Moresby ; 
 so that we have seen 147 miles of the coast-line and 
 the mission district in the charge of Messrs. Lawes and 
 
302 A COASTING VOYAGE TO AROMA. 
 
 Chalmers. South Cape — as yet unvisited by us — lies far 
 to the eastward. 
 
 On the following morning (Feb 27th) we left in the 
 Ellengowan for Kerepunu, on our return voyage. I 
 found three charming little passengers on board, 
 brought off for sale by natives of Aroma — a light grey 
 flying opossum ( Belideus arid ) and her two little ones. 
 The latter were cosily wrapped up in cotton wool in a 
 cocoanut shell. The mother, in her terror, climbed the 
 rigging, and made a nest aloft, coming down at dusk 
 to feed and tend her offspring. These beautiful little 
 animals died a few days afterwards at Port Moresby. 
 The Bdideus arid is exactly like a small flying squirrel 
 in appearance, but belongs to the marsupial order. 
 
 At four p.m. we arrived at Kerepunu, beating all the 
 way. Early on Thursday morning (Feb. 28th), we started 
 for Hula, and landed there at mid-day. This early arrival 
 enabled me to attend afternoon school ; one hundred 
 young people were present, many of whom could read. 
 At the conclusion I addressed them, Itama translating. 
 I slept uneasily that night on account of myriads of 
 mosquitoes and the excessive heat. Towards daylight, 
 at half-past four A.M., I strolled along the broad sandy 
 beach, and, as the sun rose slowly above the hills, wit- 
 nessed what I shall not easily forget. It was obviously 
 a dance to greet the rising sun. The dancers first 
 saluted the four cardinal points by simultaneously raising 
 their drums above their heads . Then a number of men. 
 stood in the centre — one half facing the other — beating 
 their drums with their hands and gently swaying their 
 bodies to and fro. The rest danced round and round 
 these stationary drummers, themselves beating drums. 
 Next, two columns were formed; in the open space 
 
C use US SKIN. 
 
 303 
 
 between these columns the others danced up and down, 
 all beating drums and chanting a mournful song. Then 
 came the full dance ; a stationary column was formed — 
 one half facing the other half — their persons, as before, 
 gently swaying to and fro ; the great body of dancers 
 meantime slowly dancing round and round them, each 
 male dancer (they were nearly all males) with a girl 
 hanging by the left arm. The sun now rose in its 
 strength, the dancers perspired at every pore, and were 
 glad to go home to sleep. I was anxious to learn the 
 meaning of the chant, and was informed that it was 
 only an ancient formula used on all such occasions. 
 Probably this was the conclusion of a great festival ; 
 for we counted 1500 bunches of bananas suspended on 
 a long row of poles on Saturday, Feb. 23rd, and were told 
 that a grand dance was to come off. Our visit to Kalo 
 prevented us from witnessing these heathen festivities, 
 which commenced on the return of the Hula chiefs. 
 
 Many of the chiefs all along the coast wear at the 
 back of the head strips of cuscus skin, with the brown 
 fur on, as love-charms. Strongly-scented leaves are 
 inserted in the armlets (of the men only), with the same 
 intent. The smell of the cuscus is offensive to European 
 nostrils. Three species of these opossum-like animals 
 are known ; they have long prehensile tails, and live 
 in trees feeding upon the leaves. The natives of Xew 
 Guinea eat their flesh. 
 
 On Friday (February 29th) we started for Port 
 Moresby, beating all the way inside the Barrier Eeef. 
 The sea was full of mangrove fruits and branches 
 floating upright. The branches were growing, proving 
 that they had long been immersed, no doubt swept 
 down the Gulf by freshets. Matina informed me that 
 
3°4 
 
 A COASTING VOYAGE TO AROMA. 
 
 one village in the Aroma district subsists chiefly upon 
 mangrove fruits. There are several kinds of mangrove, 
 hut only one yielding edible fruit. The fruit is five 
 inches in length, and is boiled, tasting like the sliced 
 oi or bitter yam of Earotonga — eaten in times of 
 scarcity. Eeduced to a pulp and steeped in water for 
 a few seconds to remove its bitterness, baked cocoanut 
 scrapings should be poured over it, rendering it excellent 
 eating. At eight r.M. we landed at Port Moresby, and 
 were glad to find Mr. Lawes well. The quiet of the 
 past few days had enabled him to make good progress 
 in Bible translation — the only true foundation of 
 enduring mission work. 
 
C .305 ) 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 OPENING OF PIPvl’s CHURCH, AND A RIDE TO PARI. 
 
 The church at Boera — Burial of a native child — Opening service — 
 Koiari funeral customs — Scarcity of young men — Fine view — 
 Pari. 
 
 On the 4th of March we all started off in the Ellen- 
 gowan, with a head wind, for the village of Boera, lying 
 twelve miles to the west of Port Moresby. The scenery 
 was pleasing, but the soil evidently barren. Scarcely any 
 level land could be seen. Boera is built on piles close 
 to the sea, with a population of 350. My old friend 
 Piri gave us a hearty welcome. His pleasant cottage 
 of lath and plaster, containing three rooms, is finely 
 situated on rising ground. A gravelled path, shaded 
 with palms and bananas, conducts to it from the landing- 
 place. 
 
 Adjoining this modest manse stands the new church 
 we came to open. It is, of course, built on piles, sixty 
 feet by twenty, and well finished off, for Piri knows 
 how to use his hands as well as his voice. This is the 
 first lime church in Hew Guinea ; four months were 
 spent in its erection. It is thatched with pandanus- 
 leaf, in Earotongan fashion. 
 
 I was much affected at the sight of Tua’s grave. The 
 early death of this promising teacher was, Mr. Lawes 
 
 x 
 
3o6 OPENING OF PIRNS CHURCH— RIDE TO PARI. 
 
 informs me, occasioned by persistently working in the 
 
 sun. No stranger can stand this. Yet ‘blessed are 
 the dead that die in the Lord.’ 
 
 A stretch of level land sweeps from these premises 
 towards the interior, terminating on the seaward in 
 round grassy knolls, and on the other side in well- 
 wooded hills. This is the wallaby-hunting ground of 
 the villagers. A pair of spur-winged plovers ran about 
 the garden, as if tame. This is indeed a beautiful bird ; 
 the top of the head is black, a yellow membrane 
 partially covers the face, hanging down on either side. 
 A spur projects from the joint of each wing. 
 
 Strolling through the village, which is kept clean, we 
 came upon a young woman weeping over her dead 
 
 babe. The body was besmeared with turmeric, the 
 head with red ochre ; of course quite nude. Close 
 by, opposite their dwelling, was a shallow grave, the 
 bottom of which was lined with the midrib of the sago 
 palm. The mother was alone with her dead infant, 
 who died in the morning. I was informed by Piri that 
 at the same hour to-morrow 1 it will be covered with two 
 inches of soil, the friends watching beside the grave ; 
 but eventually the skull and smaller bones will be 
 preserved and worn by the mother. Two planks were 
 ready to cover over the grave. When shall the Gospel 
 arise and shine in all its power upon these benighted 
 people ? 
 
 At sunset a fine magic lantern was exhibited by 
 Messrs. Lawes and Chalmers in the church. The 
 building was crowded, and the excitement intense, 
 culminating at the scene of the crucifixion. Certainly 
 
 1 These dark races judge accurately of the time by the height of 
 the sun. 
 
KOIARI TREATMENT OF THE DEAD. 307 
 
 this is a most effective method of teaching Scripture 
 facts. 
 
 On the following morning the church was formally 
 opened. There was a good attendance ; at least 250 
 adults were present. After the usual singing, prayer, 
 and reading of Scripture, no fewer than six addresses 
 were delivered. Yet it was by no means tedious, the 
 attention of the Papuans being well kept up to the 
 end. It was affecting to hear two Motu chiefs from 
 Port Moresby exhorting their heathen countrymen to 
 embrace Christianity and live according to its precepts. 
 Mr. Lawes, who is an excellent artist, afterwards took a 
 photograph of the church, the teachers and natives 
 squatting outside in various groups. 
 
 Next came the feasting ; pork, fish, bananas, &c., &c., 
 in abundance, evidently well appreciated by the 
 Boerans. Meanwhile I was chatting with Tipoki, who, 
 with some others, laboured in the interior amongst the 
 Koiari tribe. The incorrigible wandering habits of 
 these people induced Mr. Chalmers to remove Tipoki 
 and Maka to Maiva. Amongst other things, Tipoki 
 said the Koiari treat their dead after this fashion. A 
 fire is kept burning day and night at the head and feet 
 for months. The entire skin is removed 1 by means of 
 
 1 This explains the embalming of the head by the Flv Eiver 
 natives referred to by D’Albertis, vol. ii. pp. 133, 134. In 1876 
 1 )’ Albertis saw two mummies preserved under a shed on the banks 
 of the Fly Eiver. He remarks, “ On opening the first, I found the 
 entire body of a woman. The bones were in great part covered with 
 the dried skin, almost intact. It was of a uniform red colour, which 
 I believe to be artificially produced with the red chalk so much used 
 by the natives. I think — though I am not certain of this — that 
 the flesh had been removed before the body was preserved, leaving 
 only the skin.” The conjecture of the celebrated Italian traveller 
 
 x 2 
 
308 OPENING 01 PIRNS CHURCH— RIDE TO PARI. 
 
 the thumb and forefinger, and the juices plastered all 
 over the face and body of the operator (parent, husband, 
 or wife of the deceased). The fire gradually desiccates 
 the flesh, so that little more than the skeleton is left. 
 Their next anxiety is to discover by whose sorceries he 
 or she has died. The mode of proceeding is as follows : 
 the wise man of the tribe places on the body as many 
 bits of dried grass as there are known villages round 
 about, each bit being placed in the correct relative 
 position. The incantation begins; at length a fly or 
 some other insect alights on one of these straws, pro- 
 bably attracted by the smell. It is now evident to the 
 wise man that an inhabitant of the village indicated 
 by the straw occasioned the death of their friend by 
 sorcery ; for has not the god spoken ? That same 
 night revenge must be obtained ! The desiccated body 
 is well wrapped up and fixed in a lofty tree. The ashes 
 of the two fires are rubbed over the faces of relatives 
 and other watchers, a grand feast and dancing con- 
 cluding the whole. A sort of ‘ Death Talk ’ 1 is 
 chanted by the relatives during the process. Tipoki’s 
 Koiari chief slew nine innocent persons in this way ; 
 but, hearing that Tamate was angry, came to Port 
 Moresby during my stay, attended by his wife and a 
 number of his people carrying food, to make peace. 
 Their son bears Tamate’s name, and is in the mission 
 school. 
 
 I was struck with the paucity of young men at 
 
 was entirely correct; tlie procedure of the FI y River natives with 
 their dead being just that of the Koiari tribe, five hundred miles to 
 the south-east. 
 
 1 See ‘ Myths and Songs,’ by the author, page 189. Tipoki is 
 a native of Mangaia. 
 
BO LIB ADA. 
 
 3°9 
 
 Boera. Upon inquiring the cause, I was informed that 
 eight years ago a fleet of Boeran trading canoes return- 
 ing home from the Gulf were forced by stress of 
 weather to put in at Maiva. They were hospitably 
 received and fed for some days, but on the eve of their 
 departure 177 men were treacherously slain. The 
 three who escaped to Manumanu, when slaking their 
 thirst with cocoanut water, were afterwards clubbed. 
 
 The Maiva teachers, with Henere of Delena, now bade 
 me a long farewell, sailing westward in the Ellengowan. 
 We sailed for Bolibada, about two miles distant, in our 
 boat. There are 250 people here under the care of 
 Piri. It is evidently a very unhealthy village, on 
 account of a large neighbouring swamp. We visited 
 the graves of Asapha and Zekaria. Piri comes over in 
 Ins boat to preach and teach when his duties at Boera 
 are concluded ; so that in all some 600 souls are under 
 the sole charge of Piri. It is intended to place here a 
 student from the Institution at Port Moresby as soon 
 as practicable. Seven natives of Bolibada died in a 
 fortnight ; it was saddening, as we walked through the 
 village, to pass group after group seated at the open 
 graves of their friends, whose bodies were merely 
 sprinkled with earth. 
 
 We now caught sight of Mr. Chalmers’ boat pressing 
 on for Port Moresby. In a second we were in our own, 
 sailing with a fair wind for the same haven. An 
 exciting race ensued, they running between Mourilyan 
 and the mainland, we going round, to hold on to the 
 wind. But after all we were beaten by two minutes, 
 arriving at half-past four P.M. 
 
 On the afternoon of March 8th, the intense heat bavin"' 
 somewhat abated, four of us started for the village of 
 
310 OPENING OF PIRNS CHURCH— RIDE TO PARI. 
 
 Pari, eight miles distant. Our horses, introduced by the 
 Australian diggers in 1878, were strong, but over-fat, 
 through being permitted to roam at large with nothing to 
 do. No road exists, merely a foot- track, and that terribly 
 rough at times. Everywhere out of the utterly barren 
 soil grew zamias, from six to eight feet high, mostly in 
 seed. These cycads form a link between palms and ferns, 
 having much of the appearance of palms, and in some 
 particulars of ferns. The larger round berries from the 
 crown are eaten in seasons of scarcity, after being for 
 three days steeped in water and cooked, as is also the 
 custom of the North Queensland natives. 
 
 The prospect from the summit of the great limestone 
 range was charming. At our feet lay Port Moresby 
 with its three villages ; on our left a rich valley 
 terminating in an arm of the sea. A Koiari village 
 near the ocean gave life to the scene. On we pressed, 
 now lacerated by unexpected thorns (the tatciramoci 
 of the Hervey Group), and now exulting in a sense of 
 utter freedom as we scoured the open plain. Pine 
 plantations of bananas and yams were visible on the 
 hill-sides. A cuckoo-pheasant rose up almost from 
 under the feet of my horse. Flycatchers scolded from 
 the thickets as we passed. At length we came to 
 Yerentu, a village where a service is conducted every 
 Sabbath by Ruatoka (our guide) or a student from Port 
 Moresby. These villages are sufficiently civilised to 
 know the days of the week, and thus know when to 
 expect the preacher. The platform of the chief’s house 
 is the pulpit, the congregation squat on the bare red 
 clay. Everywhere in New Guinea the men, if possible, 
 get into the shade; but the women, although with 
 clean-shaven heads, are allowed to stand or work in the 
 
PARI. 
 
 3 1 1 
 
 sun without a morsel of shelter. A fat hog had been 
 killed and a quantity of bananas collected, as a grand 
 moonlight dance was to come off. After giving a few 
 presents to the principal people, we made a new start 
 through an extensive sterile plain. On the crest of a 
 hill, looking towards the sea, was a small village built 
 on tall stakes, that a good breeze might sweep away. 
 We met numbers of women carrying supplies for their 
 families, in net-work bags, suspended from the forehead. 
 
 RUATOKA AND 1IIS WIFE. 
 
 The men contented themselves with a brace of spears 
 and a coarse net for wallaby hunting. One man, 
 terrified at our horses, climbed to the very top of a tree ; 
 not even the promise of kuku (tobacco) would induce 
 him to come down. At length we reached Pari, which 
 is built on the sandy beach, and has a population of 400 . 
 A cry of surprise and pleasure rang through this quiet 
 place. It seems that their dubio has been burnt ; 
 all that remains are the charred carved stumps of this 
 ancient place of idolatrous worship. 
 
312 OPENING OF PIPES CHURCH— RIDE TO PARI. 
 
 We were soon comfortably seated in the house of 
 Isaako, the native pastor, who is a native of Savage 
 Island, and has certainly done good work here. He 
 has sent to the Institution at Port Moresby three 
 students. He has ten Church members, besides a 
 number of hopeful people. I was pleased with the 
 church ; indeed, the entire mission premises are exceed- 
 ingly compact and pretty. After a refreshing drink 
 of cocoanut water (a South Sea Island mark of courtesy), 
 we strolled through the village, and were struck with 
 the plump, healthy appearance of the inhabitants. 
 There were very few indications of skin disease. After 
 scattering a few trifling gifts and a general hand- 
 shaking, we remounted our horses, but did not get 
 into Port Moresby till quite dark, much pleased with 
 my first ride in Hew Guinea. 
 
( 313 ) 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 THE LAROKI RIVER. 
 
 A morning ride — Vegetation — The Laroki — Savages have no love 
 for natural beauty — Rattan palms — Betel-pepper — Jungle fowl 
 and crested pigeons — Pig hunting — Products of the Laroki 
 valley. 
 
 Early in the morning of March 12th, Kuatoka and I 
 mounted our horses for the Laroki, a distance of ten 
 miles. Some Motu lads followed us with provisions 
 and a fowling piece. It is extremely exhilarating to 
 ride in the tropics before the sun is up. In three- 
 quarters of an hour we climbed the limestone hills 
 overlooking Port Moresby and began to descend. 
 Several lofty forest trees had been strangled by lianas, 
 presenting one mass of small crimson blossoms drooping 
 to the ground in vast festoons. On the inland side we 
 saw two or three fine plantations recently made by the 
 Motu men. Stakes of equal length are cut and driven 
 into the ground ; transverse sticks, secured by a strong- 
 vine called sci, make a good defence against the 
 wallaby and the wild hog. These enclosures are in 
 squares and parallelograms. Yam vines are trained on 
 upright sticks, not, as in Polynesia, on fallen timber. 
 Men enclose and dig ; women plant, weed, carry home 
 and cook. Men also hunt and fish ; still, the hard 
 work of life in New Guinea is done by women. 
 
314 
 
 THE LAROKI RIVER. 
 
 Further on we passed a clump of indigenous mango 
 trees, the fruit of which I tasted, and found to he very- 
 inferior. A fine sago palm grew at no great distance. 
 Although growing spontaneously, it is regarded as 
 private property, for every inch of land is owned. We 
 now emerged into the open country. Coarse grasses 
 grew everywhere in tufts — kangaroo, blady, and spear 
 grass, like that seen in Australia — to the height of six 
 feet. Various species of eucalyptus grew sparsely. It 
 was touching to come upon the grave of a gold-digger, 
 who died alone on this vast plain, but was discovered 
 and buried with Christian rites by my companion. 
 About midway to the Laroki the plain is intersected by 
 a small stream, the overflow of some small lakes. The 
 soil here becomes rich, well suited for the cultivation 
 of sugar-cane, taro, or rice, being liable to heavy floods. 
 The timber is heavier and of greater variety, occasion- 
 ally reminding me of the luxuriance of Polynesian 
 vegetation. Again we emerged upon an open plain 
 bounded by hills of all sizes and forms, apparently 
 tumbled about in utter confusion. In the far distance, 
 clothed in pale blue, majestically rose up Mount Owen 
 Stanley, monarch of them all, and the home of the gods, 
 its summit as yet untrod by human feet. 
 
 Close to the path was a swamp encircled by young- 
 eucalypti, as if planted, and yet it was certain that no 
 savage would take the trouble. The country became 
 fearfully barren ; it constitutes, however, the hunting 
 ground of the Koitapu tribe. As the sun was now 
 well up, the wallabies were mostly hiding in the 
 dense scrub ; one or two, however, leaped past us. 
 About 10 o’clock we arrived at the river Laroki, 
 formerly spelt Laloki, which here winds considerably ; 
 
THE LAROKI FALLS. 
 
 3>5 
 
 at this point it is sixty yards wide. It was discovered 
 by the Eev. W. G. Lawes in 1875, and runs into the 
 Manumanu, which empties itself into Eedscar Bay. A 
 few miles higher up the gold-diggers of 1878 worked, 
 with small results. Farther on are the magnificent 
 Eouna FaEs, where the entire river precipitates itself 
 over a cHff 270 feet high. 1 The owner of these faEs, 
 Loliia Malaga, visited Port Moresby during my stay 
 there. On that occasion Mr. Chalmers related an 
 incident connected with his first visit to the falls. He 
 asked Lohia to guide him to them. The chief charac- 
 teristically replied, ‘ Tamate, if you are hungry, come 
 with me, and I will show you plenty of wallaby and 
 wild hogs to hunt. Why go to see a lot of water 
 falling over big stones V It is a fact that no savage 
 appreciates scenery. 
 
 A belt of dense tropical vegetation covers both sides 
 of the river; trees of many kinds tower to a great 
 height. Everywhere lianas embraced and gaily 
 crowned the giants of the forest. Amongst them were 
 two species of rattan palms, which encircled the 
 immense trunk, then ran along a branch, finally 
 drooping down most gracefully. The cane is obtained 
 in lengths of 180 and 240 feet, furnishing cordage for 
 their vast lalcatio and other canoes. Strips of it lash 
 the jade adze to its haft, and secure the sago or nipcc 
 palm-leaf thatch to the small rafters of their dwellings. 
 In New Guinea strips of rattan cane take the place 
 of the sennet of the South Sea Islanders. 
 
 Like all other rivers in this country, the Laroki is full 
 of crocodBes. After a brief rest, Euatoka shouldered 
 his fowling piece and started off in search of game. His 
 1 Niagara is only 154 feet in height. 
 
3*6 
 
 THE LAROKI RIVER. 
 
 followers entered the bush in an opposite direction 
 in search of betel-pepper, which is a liana or shrub of 
 climbing habit. It is obtained in great lengths ; four 
 coils of it were soon obtained. The custom is first to 
 chew the kernel of the green betel-nut ; then taste 
 slacked coral lime out of a gourd ; finally to chew the 
 bark of the betel-pepper ( chavica ). Most of our teachers 
 indulge in this luxury, which is considered beneficial 
 rather than otherwise. It tinges the saliva red, and 
 stains (in some instances decays) the teeth. 
 
 At this moment a loud yell was heard from a fine 
 kangaroo dog that accompanied us. He gallantly bit 
 the tail of a drowsy crocodile, doubtless mistaking it 
 for an iguana, which he had been trained to hunt. In 
 return he received a fearful bite ; hut happily the shouts 
 of the Motu lads scared the foe. The poor fellow, 
 being unable to stand, had to be carried all the way 
 home in a Jccciapa or large netted bag. 
 
 An hour’s tropical downpour now followed. Right 
 glad was I to get partial shelter under an old ‘ lean- 
 over ’ erected by Ruatoka on a former occasion. By- 
 and-by he appeared, drenched to the skin, with a 
 jungle fowl ( Megapodiits tumulus). This wonderful 
 mound-building bird is found all over Hew Guinea and 
 the adjacent islands, inclusive of Northern Australia. 
 He also bagged two fine crested pigeons ( Goura 
 J.lbertisii). These stately birds are of a delicate slate 
 colour ; their loud booming cry as they v r alk in pairs 
 through the bush is sure to attract the attention of the 
 sportsman. On seeing Ruatoka, they flew on to the 
 lower branch of a neighbouring tree, evidently thinking 
 themselves out of danger. The male bird weighed 
 eight pounds. It v T as about the size of a hen turkey 
 
PIG HUNTING. 
 
 3i7 
 
 in fine condition. Next day, at Port Moresby, we ate 
 these birds ; but, though universally praised by 
 Europeans, the fiesli was to me tough. Inside the 
 gizzard of each Goura pigeon is a good-sized pebble, 
 much prized by the natives as charms against spear- 
 thrusts and club-blows. The pebble is slowly passed 
 over each limb of the body, as well as the trunk, whilst 
 certain words are uttered, so that no part shall be 
 harmed in the day of battle. 
 
 Laroki Paver is good hunting ground for pigs. The 
 wild pig 1 (Sus papuensis ) is the largest and, excepting 
 the dingo, almost the only true mammal in New 
 Guinea ; all the rest being marsupials. When young 
 it is black and brown in alternate longitudinal stripes, 
 extending the entire length. When adult it loses this 
 longitudinal striping, and assumes a speckled or grey 
 colour. There is also a black variety, far less common 
 than the striped. The boars are very savage, not 
 hesitating to charge any who may unwisely interfere 
 with them. The only chance of escape is to climb the 
 nearest tree. The tusks of these boars are highly 
 valued as mouth-ornaments in battle. Two pairs are 
 firmly tied together and held between the teeth. 
 
 Two miles westward is a Ivoiari village, close to the 
 river. These Koiari natives claim every inch of soil on 
 the farther side of the Laroki, just as the Koitapu claim 
 every inch 0 n the Port Moresby side of the river. 
 
 In the valley of the Laroki grow raspberries, straw- 
 berries, nutmegs, tobacco, capsicums, and indigenous 
 cotton. Acorns have been picked up. The interior is, 
 of course, the region of taro, yams, and gigantic aroids. 
 The ivory nut palm is known in the far interior. 
 
 1 Young pigs are often suckled by the women as pets. 
 
318 
 
 THE LAROKI RIVER. 
 
 Everywhere, except on swampy ground, we saw 
 columns and pyramids, two feet high, built by termites. 
 None of these erections equal those at Somerset or 
 Tauan. Sitting for shade for a few minutes under a 
 eucalyptus near the Laroki, I was terribly bitten by red 
 ants a quarter of an inch long. It was not till I was 
 able to remove all my clothes I got any rest from 
 them. 
 
 After getting some refreshment, we found it time 
 to go home. The air was now deliciously cool and 
 pleasant. Several wallabies (of which there are two 
 species in New Guinea) gracefully leaped past us. Our 
 horses went well. Gazing for a moment from the 
 summit of the hill overlooking Port Moresby, I was 
 entranced at the beauty of the scene, as the golden rays 
 of the setting sun fell upon the mission premises, native 
 villages, and the almost land-locked harbour. Again 
 we spurred our horses, and soon kindly voices welcomed 
 me home. 
 
( 319 ) 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 TO BARUNI AND DINNER ISLAND. 
 
 Tree houses — A native drill and jew’s harp— 1 Tatana — 'Dinner 
 Island — Request for sheep — Recent changes in the natives — 
 Savage neighbours — Areca palms. 
 
 A few miles west of Port Moresby, overlooking 
 Fairfax Harbour, is the district of Baruni, inhabited by 
 Koitapu natives. On the 15 th of March Ruatoka 
 kindly took me over in the mission boat. Baruni 
 consists of some four or five distinct hamlets, with a 
 population of 300. The soil is sterile ; but even here 
 the industrious natives have well-kept plantations of 
 yams, bananas, and sweet potatoes. A dense growth 
 of mangroves skirts the rocky shore. There was no 
 appearance of a settlement where we landed, but a few 
 minutes’ walk up a steep hill brought us to a number 
 of houses, one of which was built in a tree. I climbed 
 up the tall ladder and entered, of course making a 
 small present to the owner, who seemed much amused 
 at the curiosity of the stranger. The hut was small 
 and well built, but, being situated on the top of a hill, 
 rocked uncomfortably in the wind. I sat some time 
 on the platform where visitors are received, and nets, 
 &c., are made. The villagers smilingly crowded about 
 us, Ruatoka being an old friend of theirs. Farther on 
 
320 TO BARUNI AND DINNER ISLAND. 
 
 s 
 
 was a second village, with, a house or two built in 
 the trees ; but as the trees were larger, these curious 
 aerial dwellings seemed less risky. We passed on 
 to a third hamlet, receiving everywhere a hearty 
 welcome. 
 
 A preacher from the Institution is sent to Baruni 
 every Sabbath to instruct these poor people. Most of 
 the chiefs of these hamlets have two wives apiece. I 
 was sorry to observe that the head wife of one chief 
 was afflicted with incurable leprosy. A little further 
 on is a seam of plumbago, almost pure, with which the 
 fops of Port Moresby adorn themselves, with a view 
 of rendering themselves irresistibly attractive. The 
 paint is laid on in streaks on the forehead, chin, 
 and cheeks. 
 
 We now crossed over to Tatana, which is merely a 
 collection of huts on a low point of land. There may 
 be 200 natives (of the Motu tribe, I believe) here. 
 Most of the men were away fishing. I was interested 
 to see in use a native drill exactly like that known 
 among the Samoans, pointed with hard stone instead of 
 steel. It is used for perforating dingo and wallaby 
 teeth, to be threaded into necklaces. Stone clubs are 
 perforated by means of sharp flints secured to forked 
 pieces of wood, not dissimilar to the ancient chisels, 
 toki of the South Sea Islanders. I never heard of an 
 Eastern Polynesian perforated stone club. I succeeded 
 in purchasing the drill ; another was afterwards pre- 
 sented to me by the Piev. W. G. Lawes. 
 
 New Guinea lads amuse themselves by playing a 
 wooden instrument exactly corresponding to the jew’s 
 harp. Several times men came on board the Ellen- 
 gowan playing pandean pipes ; indeed, from the Fly 
 
BRUME R ISLAND. 32I 
 
 Itiver to South Cape pandean pipes are in use. There 
 is an inventiveness about the Papuans which I have 
 never seen m Polynesia; and yet in the matter of 
 clothing the latter far surpass the former. 
 
 A teacher was formerly located at Tataria, but it 
 was found to be unhealthy. The hope of the mission 
 undoubtedly lies in the development of a native 
 ministry, as of course they can stand the climate. 
 Still, there is a prestige and power about Polynesian 
 teachers of inestimable value in the early stages of 
 this mission. 
 
 At certain seasons crocodiles come down at night 
 from this neighbourhood to Port Moresby to steal fat 
 
 hogs. It is not agreeable to hear their strange roariim 
 down on the beach. ° 
 
 The sky being overcast, we were glad to hurry back 
 home, to escape a drenching tropical shower. The 
 kindness of brethren at Port Moresby made it a real 
 home to me during my pleasant sojourn in that part 
 of New Guinea. 
 
 Bidding farewell to friends at Port Moresby, we 
 sailed, on March 15th, for South Cape in the mission 
 schooner. During the moonless night of Friday the 
 20th, we passed South Cape, and found ourselves at 
 daylight among the Brurner and Leocadie Islands. 
 
 A Earotongan teacher named Pi was formerly located 
 on one of the latter, opposite to the mainland; when 
 removed to South Cape he sent three Chinamen in 
 a boat to fetch his boxes, &c. All three were murdered 
 and the boat destroyed for the sake of plunder It 
 rained heavily all day. As we slowly sailed alon- 
 numerous islands clad in the most delicate tints 
 opened up, the Engineer Group looming in the distance. 
 
 Y 
 
322 TO BA RUN I AND DINNER ISLAND. 
 
 At five r.M. we anchored off Dinner Island, which is 
 one-and-a-lialf miles in circuit and 200 feet high. 
 We found ourselves surrounded by islands : Heath 
 Blanchard, Hayter, and various others. China Straits 
 lay before us. Looking through tills noble ship route, 
 we saw East Cape at a distance of twenty miles. 
 Smoke rising in all directions evidenced a considerable 
 population, which becomes dense in Milne Bay. 
 
 Two neat cottages stood opposite our anchorage 
 on Dinner Island, the walls and partitions being of 
 the split midrib of the sago palm. Ibunisi of Lifu, 
 the teacher here, came off in his canoe to welcome 
 us. He is a pleasant-looking dark man, about thirty- 
 two years of age. He has been labouring in New 
 Guinea for six years ; his wife and child are at present 
 on Thursday Island. It was dark when we got ashore, 
 and were conducted at once to the large mission house, 
 the roofing and sides of which are of corrugated iron, 
 but the flooring sadly devastated by the white ant. 
 This pretty island is the property of the London 
 Missionary Society, and is well situated as a neutral 
 meeting ground for hostile tribes. Its native name is 
 Samarae. 
 
 Ibunisi has translated into the dialect spoken here 
 the first four chapters of St. Mark’s Gospel. Of course 
 this is done out of the Lifuan New Testament. It 
 seems that the little book translated by Pi at South 
 Cape does pretty well here and at Barabara, i.c. East 
 Cape ; but there is a strong craving among the converts 
 for more. I was much affected by his words (he 
 spoke to me in broken English) : ‘ New Guinea man 
 no all the same now as long time before. He no 
 like fight; he too much like prayer. New Guinea 
 
3 2 3 
 
 REQUEST FOR TEACHERS. 
 
 man too much like missionary now.’ After a pause 
 he added, ‘Long time before Milne Bay man no 
 make plantation ; he like fight and rob all the time. 
 Now lie pray ; he make plantation.’ Gazing earnestly 
 into my face, he inquired, ‘ What for no white missionary 
 here? I tell every man that one will come and 
 make books ; yet he no come. Why do you white 
 missionaries make me a liar ? We have got no books 
 at all.’ He added, after a pause, ‘No people at Samoa 
 Lifu, Earotonga; plenty at Milne Bay.’ Our teachers 
 < an lead the converts up to a certain point only ; if 
 the white missionary fails to step in and supplement 
 the preparatory work done, by giving them the Word 
 <>t Life, and other books in their own tongue, the 
 good work ot our teachers is thrown away. As I 
 listened to the burning words of Ibunisi, I wished I 
 could be young again, that I might be honoured to give 
 to these thirsty souls to drink of the water of life. 
 
 ^ e were o la(1 to learn that Dien and wife, of East 
 Cape, are well and active in their work; but Jerry, 
 of Teste Island, had a fortnight previously gone to 
 Cooktown for medical aid, leaving the mission in 
 charge of his energetic wife. As a different dialect 
 is spoken on Teste Island from that in use at Samarae 
 and South Cape, only the MS. book prepared by the 
 sick teacher himself is in use. Yet eleven Teste 
 Islanders can read intelligently in their own tonmie, 
 so recently reduced to writing; two or three can write ; 
 and the entire population— three hundred and fifty— 
 attend Divine service. At East Cape several young 
 people can read in the South Cape dialect. At Dinner 
 Island fifty-eight can read the Suau book : of these 
 readers forty are adults, and sixteen can write as well 
 
324 TO BARUNI AND DINNER ISLAND. 
 
 as read. Ibunisi told me that ‘ his hoys keep awake 
 all the evenings to write and do figures.’ 
 
 One of Ibunisi’s converts, named Paulo, has gone 
 with his family, under the teacher’s auspices, to 
 Discovery Bay (Wagawaga), to teach the heathen 
 there. I heard with pleasure of a heathen (?) prophet 
 who goes about proclaiming the advent of a new era, 
 admonishing his people to give up cannibalism, murder, 
 adultery, and theft, and says that by all means they 
 must keep the Sabbath. ‘ He that is not against us 
 is on our part.’ 
 
 In their ceaseless wars, the Hayter and Heath Island 
 natives combine against the natives of the mainland, 
 i.e. Milne Bay. On one occasion they slew a man and 
 his wife and ate them. These savages, twenty in 
 number, afterwards formed a ring, and tossed from one 
 to the other the daughter of the murdered couple, 
 intending when giddy to cut off her head. A teacher, 
 named Tom, providentially interfered at this moment, 
 and persuaded these cannibals to sell the child to him 
 for an axe and some knives. This adopted daughter 
 of Tom is now on Mer (Murray Island) ; she was 
 baptized Mary, by the Bev. S. McFarlane, and is being 
 trained as a Christian girl. 
 
 I rose early next morning, my bones sore with 
 sleeping on a plank, to get a good look at this place. 
 I was delighted with a profusion of beautifully variegated 
 crotons planted about the house, and the evident 
 fertility of the soil, which equals that of liarotonga or 
 Samoa. We inspected the church and native dwellings ; 
 the latter were very superior. A large canoe with a 
 mat sail lay on the beach, furnished with outrigger 
 and platform. The canoe itself consists of planks sewn 
 
THE MOUND BUILDING BIRD. 325 
 
 together, boat fashion, and ornamented with a profusion 
 of large white shells. 
 
 We walked across the little island, which is a garden 
 of bananas, cocoa-nut and areca palms, taro, arrow-root 
 ( tacca ), and Amorphophallus ccimpanulatus, which is 
 here (the teachers say) excellent eating. In the bush 
 i.e. the uncultivated part of the islet, shot up straight 
 us a reed a great number of areca palms, so slender and 
 graceful ! A bunch fit for use is a foot long, with from 
 250 to 300 nuts (each about the size of a nutmeg, but 
 pointed 1 ) on it. We saw three nests of the mound- 
 building megapode ; one of them was fifty-one feet ip 
 diameter. It is said that larger nests exist at East 
 Cape. It seems incredible that so small a bird should 
 build such immense tumuli as nests. In point of fact, 
 however, no such mound was ever built by a single 
 bird, or in one season. The Megapodius tumulus never 
 sits upon her eggs, but buries them deep in the mound, 
 to be hatched by the heat of the sun and fermentation. 
 We had two fine eggs for breakfast ; being fresh, they 
 proved to be capital eating. 
 
 The pattern of the tattooing on women is quite 
 different from that westward, although equally elaborate. 
 Skin disease is very prevalent hereabout. The hair of the 
 men is reddened with lime, as at Samoa ; doubtless for 
 the sake of cleanliness. About thirty small canoes and 
 catamarans surrounded the Ellengowan as she prepared 
 to depart, all laden with food for sale. 
 
 Dinner Island, East Cape, and Teste Island are 
 under the charge of the fiev. S. McFarlane. It is 
 
 In many places it is customary to present an areca nut to the 
 visitor. Should the point be away from him, it is a private signal 
 to the clan to murder. 
 
326 TO BA RUN I AND DINNER ISLAND. 
 
 noteworthy that the teachers avIio have done such good 
 work hereabouts are the sons of inveterate cannibals ; 
 such men, when truly converted, can speak more 
 feelingly and authoritatively of what Christianity has 
 done for them and theirs than others. 
 
( 3^7 ) 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 SUAU, OR SOUTH CAPE. 
 
 Opening the new church — Luxuriant vegetation — Potipoti — Native 
 arts — A theft ami its punishment— Habits of the natives — - 
 Burial — Orchids — Bird of Paradise plumes — Farewell to New 
 Guinea. 
 
 At eight a.m. we started for South Cape ; but, owing 
 to light and adverse winds, did not that day get nearer 
 than Tissot Island, where we dropped anchor. On the 
 following morning, Sunday, March 23rd, we had de- 
 licious weather; the entire coast line, with its numerous 
 islands, was lit up with marvellous beauty. We were 
 soon at anchor in Mayri Pass, opposite the mission 
 house. The scenery of the pass was enchanting. The 
 mission house and village are situated at the foot of a 
 steep hill, covered with luxuriant vegetation. Our 
 arrival was a great surprise ; the shout (in English) £ A 
 schooner ! ’ made the teachers Pi and Mataio eagerly 
 scan the western entrance to the pass, in vain. Why 
 we should come in from the cast they could not divine. 
 The teachers, both Rarotongans, were soon on hoard, 
 and reported all going on well. In a trice we were 
 ashore on the lofty verandah of Mr. Chalmers’ house, 
 shaking hands all round. Mataio and the women were 
 well ; but Pi himself looked very poorly. The natives 
 
328 
 
 SUAU, OR SOUTH CAPE. 
 
 were evidently delighted to see the Ellengowan and 
 her captain again. 
 
 Messrs. Lawes and Chalmers had commissioned me to 
 open the new church. It is a substantial and spacious 
 building. The flooring of native planking — some of it 
 red cedar — was well laid down ; the thatch — of sago- 
 leaf — the best I have seen in New Guinea, Piri’s church, 
 at Boera, excepted. The sides are not yet completed. 
 It being time for the morning service, the bell was 
 rung, and the church filled instantaneously. About 
 250 were present. I preached, through a translator, 
 from 1 Cor. iii. 9, after which two brief addresses were 
 delivered by the two deacons of the Church. The 
 demeanour of the congregation was all that could be 
 desired ; the singing excellent. 
 
 During the heavy downpour that afterwards made us 
 prisoners in Mr. Chalmers’ excellent dwelling, I listened 
 to the thrilling story of the founding of this mission in 
 1877. It was very pleasant to hear this romance of 
 suffering endured and of victory won. Five graves hard 
 by attest the cost. 
 
 In consequence of the rain, only 120 were present at 
 the afternoon service. But in the evening I was 
 surprised by a large gathering in the teacher’s house. 
 For about an hour, singing, reading of Scripture 
 extracts, and numerous brief prayers, occupied their 
 attention. I inquired who these people were, and was 
 informed that they came in canoes from hamlets round 
 about on Saturday afternoon ; and therefore did not 
 care to return until Monday. 
 
 This station is most conveniently situated ; still, it 
 cannot be considered a healthy site. The luxuriance of 
 the verdure defies description. I tasted here a fruit 
 
SUAU CANNIBALS. 
 
 329 
 
 new to me. It is called potipoti ; the magnificent 
 tree which yields it grows to the height of sixty feet. 
 I lie leaves are dark and glossy. The potipoti is a 
 fine fruit, three inches in diameter, smelling like an 
 apple, but tasting very differently. Each contains one 
 seed enclosed in a hard capsule. Evidently this fruit 
 is much prized by the natives. At night flocks of 
 birds come to rob the two trees growing in the mission 
 premises. The ironwood tree of the Pacific grows 
 freely here. Sandal wood is reported to have been 
 discovered. 
 
 These Suau cannibals are adepts in carving, as is 
 e\ idenced by elaborately carved wooden birds placed at 
 the entrance to the church, their paddles, cliunam 
 spoons, with a god at the handle-end, and weapons of 
 war, all of ebony. 
 
 A curious matting is prepared at South Cape from 
 the leaves of a species of pandanus, sewn together in 
 squares of four feet with sci, a fibre of great strength. 
 A wavy pattern is tastefully scratched upon it whilst 
 green. This stuff' is used as matting to sit or recline 
 on, and when pretty well worn is converted into a 
 girdle for the men. The women never use it ; they 
 v ear the universal grass petticoat, which becomes them 
 so well. 
 
 Mataio showed me his splendid boat-shaped canoe, in 
 which he visits his friends all along the coast. Pi still 
 goes to see his old people at Leocadie, despite the 
 murder of the men sent to remove his goods, and the 
 consequent loss of his effects some years ago. I asked 
 I i whether he is not afraid to sleep amongst these 
 murderers. ‘ Not a bit,’ he replied ; ‘ they are all very 
 sorry for what they did.’ 
 
330 
 
 SUAU, OR SOUTH CAPE. 
 
 The book used in worship at Suau and Samarae and 
 Barabara, as previously stated, is Pi’s. He has trans- 
 lated the whole of the Gospel by Mark into the South 
 (Jape dialect ; the final revision by Messrs. Lawes and 
 Chalmers has not yet been completed. But the most 
 gratifying thing is the circumstance that from Suau 
 six young men have been sent to the institution at 
 Port Moresby to be educated for the native ministry. 
 Five out of the six are married men ; the advantage of 
 this is that the wives will be educated by Mrs. Lawes. 
 It is impossible that an exotic ministry should always 
 be supplied ; neither is it a desirable thing in itself. 
 
 I invited Pi to accompany me to Cooktown for 
 medical advice ; but the noble-hearted fellow refused to 
 leave his work, although he has been seriously ailing 
 for two years past. I was much touched when he 
 (piietly said to me, ‘ How pleasant would it be to me 
 and my brethren round about here to have a father 
 (i.e. a white missionary) living in our midst, who could 
 care for us in our sickness, and push forward the good 
 work (i.e. by translating the Bible) ! ’ 
 
 During the afternoon service a nose-ornament was 
 stolen by a young woman who stayed at home. The 
 incensed owner, on discovering the thief, threw a cord 
 round her neck, in order to strangle her. Friends 
 mercifully interfered, and she was saved. I shall never 
 forget the loud lamentations of her near relatives that 
 night ; anger at the owner of the jewel proceeding to 
 extremities, and pity for the nearly-strangled thief. 
 The whole thing exactly resembled the dirges at Port 
 Moresby over the dead — evidencing, to my mind, the 
 substantial unity of the race. Suicide is very common, 
 on account of the notoriety it confers ! 
 
HOUSES AT SOUTH CAPE. 
 
 33i 
 
 On the morning of March 24th — my last day in New 
 Guinea — we started off’ in a couple of canoes to Bertha 
 Lagoon. We landed on both sides, to inspect the 
 houses, which are exactly those of Discovery Bay, 
 figured in Captain Moresby’s hook. Both ends of the 
 roof are elevated, the centre being depressed. One 
 house was decorated with the skull of a mountaineer 
 slain and eaten by the owner. Three white shells were 
 suspended from the skull as ornaments. These South 
 Cape people trade amongst themselves in human skulls, 
 which are still highly valued. I succeeded in buying 
 the one alluded to above. A bigamist bestowed his 
 wives and their children in one immense house, where 
 they live in harmony ; he himself occupying a small 
 house just by. At Suau there is usually a low partition 
 across the house, the females occupying one end, the 
 males the other. Throughout New Guinea they sleep by 
 the side of fire for warmth, as it often seems quite 
 chilly towards midnight. 
 
 We came upon some men plaiting stout cordage (to 
 make netting to catch wild pigs) of a strong fibre very 
 similar to Manilla hemp. It is obtained from the 
 immense aerial roots of the pandanus which yields the 
 mat-clothing already described. We saw the tree 
 growing luxuriantly on the hill-sides, and bought some 
 of the fibre. These aerial roots are about twice the 
 thickness and weight of those I have been accustomed 
 to handle in the South Sea Islands. My impression is 
 that it is a different species of pandanus. 
 
 Abundance of noble Calophylla inophylla grows in 
 some places near the edge of the lagoon. Numerous 
 branches had been lopped off and laid thickly together, 
 like a hedge, near one hamlet. The object in view was 
 
332 
 
 SUAU, OR SOUTH CAPE. 
 
 to prevent crocodiles from getting ashore there at night 
 to pick off pigs and solitary persons. I inquired why 
 this hedge was not continued along the entire village. 
 Mataio’s quick reply was, ‘ The crocodiles fear to come 
 out in the open where many human beings are, although 
 they do not hesitate to attack individuals.’ 
 
 Leaving Bertha Lagoon, we now pulled up an 
 unnamed river (although indicated in the charts) for a 
 couple of miles. Our eyes wearied of endless groves 
 of fine mangrove on both sides of the river and two- 
 thirds of the lagoon. Here and there are openings to 
 the plantations. The fruit of the mangrove germinates 
 whilst yet on the tree. It is curious to see the roots 
 aloft in the air, the fruit-pod still connected with the 
 branch. Far up the distant mountain-sides, in the 
 clear atmosphere of morning, we saw the smoke made 
 in the bush by cultivators of yams, &c. The teachers 
 assert that every acre of soil along this part of New 
 Guinea has its owner. A native desirous of making 
 a plantation on another person’s land can do so by 
 asking permission, or by a stipulated payment ; but 
 only for once. 
 
 Whilst pulling up this river, Mataio assured me that 
 it is horribly infested with crocodiles. A famous 
 warrior fishing here alone one day (he unwisely stood 
 in the stream) was clutched on both sides of his body 
 by the claws of a crocodile. The brave fellow instan- 
 taneously grasped the separate claws of either paw and 
 forced them back with tremendous violence, dislocating 
 them. The brute, not liking this unexpected reception, 
 made off ; but the man carried the marks to his grave. 
 Becollecting the scars I saw on the person of Teinaore’s 
 wife at Parimata, I gave credence to this story. 
 
BURIAL CUSTOMS. 
 
 333 
 
 Mataio asserts that the natives fear the claws of these 
 reptiles most of all. 
 
 A fine spring of water leaps over the basaltic rocks 
 at the entrance to Bertha Lagoon. A stream near the 
 mission house is the most convenient for watering 
 vessels in this part of New Guinea ; should that fail, 
 as it does sometimes in the dry season, the copious 
 spring at the mouth of Bertha Lagoon is used. 
 
 These Suau people are horribly dirty, never washing, 
 except involuntarily when they go fishing. Seine nets 
 are commonly used. Inquiring the use of several 
 small houses, I learned that it is to cover grave-pits. 
 All the members of a family at death occupy the same 
 grave, the earth that thinly covered the last occupant 
 being scooped out to admit the new-comer. These 
 graves are shallow ; the dead are buried in a sitting 
 posture, hands folded. The earth is thrown in up to 
 the mouth only. An earthen pot covers the head. 
 After a time the pot is taken off, the perfect skull 
 removed and cleansed — eventually to be hung up in a 
 basket or net inside the dwelling of the deceased over 
 the fire, to blacken in the smoke. It is easy to under- 
 stand how this love for the dead should glide into 
 worship. This almost universal form of idolatry has 
 been imported wholesale into Christianity by Rome, 
 under the form of relic and saint worship. ‘Worship- 
 ped and served the creature more than the Creator.’ 
 
 A vast collection of orchids awaited my return to the 
 teacher’s dwelling, intended as an agreeable memento 
 of my visit to Suau. I accepted but a very few, 
 on account of their bulk. I observed that fine jack- 
 fruit and other trees about here have the betel-pepper 
 liana planted at the base ; in a short time it climbs 
 
334 
 
 SUAU, OR SOUTH CAPE. 
 
 round and round the smooth stem to the very top, 
 and then gracefully droops down. 
 
 One of the chiefs of Suau interested me. He is 
 known as ‘ Bag of hones,’ on account of his old habit 
 of wearing necklaces and armlet of human bones. In 
 those early days (1877), when the lives of Mr. and Mrs. 
 Chalmers and the teachers hung in the balance, he 
 befriended them, warning them of danger and supply- 
 in" them with food. Some of the finest taro in the 
 
 O 
 
 world "rows on the liill-sides of Suau. 
 
 o 
 
 One of the most interesting curios to he obtained 
 here is the axe solemnly carried by the chiefs as a 
 preliminary to peace. Two are requisite for the 
 purpose ; if these axes are accepted, pigs, bananas, &c., 
 &c., follow, and real peace is secured. A glance at the 
 slight artistic hafting will convince any one that they 
 are not intended for cleaving timber. On account of 
 their being borne in procession, the name ‘proces- 
 sional axes ’ has been given to them. 
 
 In many parts of the New Guinea coast I was 
 struck with the size of the true clams obtained. 
 More than one measured 32 inches by 19. It is 
 .wonderful that more hands and feet are not lopped 
 off by these terrific mollusks. 
 
 "Wherever we travelled in New Guinea, excepting in 
 this neighbourhood, we saw abundance of Bird of 
 Paradise plumes, mostly the Paradisa raggiana. They 
 are obtained by the inland tribes, and sold to the coast 
 natives for head-dresses (most imposing they are), used 
 on the most important occasions, or as part price of a 
 wife. Mr. Lawes presented me with a circlet, obtained 
 in the Gulf, of the species known as Seleucides alba, 
 frequenting sago palms and pandani for the sake of the 
 
RETURN TO COOK TOWN. 
 
 335 
 
 saccharine matter and insects. The colour is of a rich 
 huffy yellow, the feathers being selected from the lower 
 pait of the body and the tuft ot plumes springing from 
 the sides. !Xe\\ Guinea is poor indeed in mammals, 
 considering its vast size, being equal in area to England 
 and France together, but is wonderfully rich in birds 
 of beautiful and gorgeously coloured species. 
 
 At half-past two P.ir. we went on board the 
 Ellengowan ; sails were unfurled ; a painful leave- 
 taking occurred, and we slowly glided through Mayri 
 Pass. We gazed with interest upon Farm Bay, dotted 
 everywhere with native huts. Many of the men inter- 
 cepted us with loads of sugar-cane for sale. There 
 stood South Cape itself, clothed in the brightest 
 gieen, vliere no soul lives. The breeze now freshened, 
 and v e stood well out to sea. In the morning only the 
 faintest outline of the distant mountains of this most 
 interesting island were visible. On the 28th we 
 anchored at Cooktown. 
 
 From Maiva to Dinner Island is a distance of three 
 hundred miles; from the Baxter Paver to East Cape 
 (the coast Hue occupied by the London Missionary 
 Society) considerably over five hundred miles. 
 
 In the south-east branch of this mission there are 
 now 116 adults in Church fellowship, and 1200 children 
 under instruction. Sixteen old teachers are at work 
 under the superintendence of Messrs. Lawes and 
 Chalmers, besides those entrusted to my care. 
 
336 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 I. 
 
 The Motu Months . 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 1 
 
 Huilaula 
 
 Goha 
 
 Lailai The new year begins about 
 
 Darodaro December 18th. 
 
 Divaro 
 
 Yehadi 
 
 Yeliadi Hoidohado \ Thirteen moons in all. 
 
 Yehadi hirihiri 
 
 Uria 
 
 Lahaka 
 
 Manumaura 
 
 Biliakei 
 
 Biliabada 
 
 II. 
 
 The Moth Numerals. 
 
 1. Tamom. 
 
 2. Rua. 
 
 3. Toi. 
 
 4. Hani. 
 
 5. Ima. 
 
 6. Taura toi ( = twice three). 
 
 7. Hitu. 
 
 8. Taura Hani ( = twice four). 
 
 9. Ta. 
 
 10. Quauta. 
 
 20. Rua hui. 
 
 30. Toi a hui. 
 
 40. Haria hui. 
 
 50. Ima hui. 
 
 00. Taura toi a hui. 
 70. Hitu a hui. 
 
 80. Taura hani a hui. 
 90. Taa hui. 
 
 100. Sinahu. 
 
 1,000. Daha. 
 
 10,000. Domaga. 
 
 100,000. Kerebu. 
 
 Nothing beyond this. 
 
 1 Most of the natives of Port Moresby belong to the Motu tribe. 
 Hence the books used in that distiict ate in the Motu’ dialect. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Aborigines, habits of, 84; worship 
 of, 84; pigs of, 84; beliefs of, 
 So; plantations of, 85; expedi- 
 tions of, 85 ; treatment of sick- 
 ness, 85 
 
 Adu. conduct of, 176 
 
 Affection, family, among natives, 
 
 113 
 
 Aivei, the, 144 
 Akevailui, the, 160 
 Alele River, the, 143 
 Alice Meade Lagoon, 139 
 Amazon, an, 180 
 Amazon Bay, Sunday at, 75 
 Amazonian Settlement, supposed, 
 72 
 
 Anedered, preaching of, 41 
 
 Annie River, the, 142 
 
 Ants, native, 318 
 
 Araf, the, 147 
 
 Areca palm, the, 325 
 
 Aroa, the, 157 
 
 Aroma, district of, 297 
 
 Arua, the first native convert, 228 
 
 Arubada, the, 138 
 
 Astrolabe Range, ascent of, 124 
 
 Axe, processional, 334 
 
 Bamboo, drinking water from, 105 
 Bamboo knife, native, 287 
 Banana, native way of eating, 110 
 Baptism, first native, 193 
 
 Barrier Reef of New Guinea, 269 
 Baruni district, the, 319 
 Beads, packets of, presented to 
 natives, 77 
 
 Bell, church, novel use of, 260 
 
 Bertha Lagoon, the, 331 
 
 Betel-pepper, 316 
 
 Birds of Paradise, 245, 277 
 
 Bocasi, death of, 59 
 
 Boera, state of mission at, 29 
 
 , description of, 268 
 
 , church at, 305 
 
 Bonabona, description of, 79 
 Bones, human, used as ornaments, 48 
 Bootu, reception at, 71 
 Brown River, the, 1 56 
 Burial, first Christian, 27 
 
 , native customs, 102 
 
 , horrible, 264 
 
 Buried alive, 299 
 
 Calophylla inophylla, the, 331 
 Cannibal feast at South Cape, 61 
 Cannibalism of Stacy Islanders, 48 
 Canoes, description of, 258 
 Carriers, difficulties with, 89 ; 
 
 women the best, 90 
 Carving, native, 329 
 Cedar-tree, red, 300 
 Chalmers, Rev. J., at Somerset, 26 ; 
 at Darnley Island, 26 ; at Murray 
 Island, 28 ; at Boera, 29 ; at Port 
 
 Z 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Moresby, 31 ; at the Laroki, 32 ; 
 trip of, inland, 33 ; at Hula, 40 ; 
 at Kerepunu, 40 ; at Teste 
 Island, 41 ; at Moresby Island, 
 45 ; at Ivillerton Island, 46 ; at 
 South Cape, 47 ; settles quarrels 
 with natives, 52 ; at Tepauri, 57 ; 
 invited to cannibal feast, 61 ; 
 starts in the Ellengowan, 63 ; at 
 Inverary Bay, 64 ; at Tanosina, 
 64 ; at Naroopoo, 64 ; at Boux 
 Islands, 65 ; narrow escape of, 
 67 ; at Meikle Bay, 67 ; at 
 Ellengowan Bay, 69 ; at Silo, 69 ; 
 at Daunai, 70 ; at Bootu, 71 ; at 
 Port Glasgow, 72 ; at Toulon, 
 73 ; at Amazon Bay, 75 ; at 
 Dedele, 76 ; meeting of, with 
 Gidage, 77 ; at Dornara, 78 ; at 
 Kinagori, 79 ; at Bonabona, 79 ; 
 at Sigokiro, 79 ; at Dufaure 
 Island, 80 ; at Mailu, 80 ; at 
 Moumiri, 87 ; at Keninuma, 89 ; 
 at Uakinumu, 95 ; at Kena- 
 Kagara, 97 ; at Mount Bellamy, 
 101 ; at Mount Elsie, 105 ; at 
 Uakinumu, 108 ; at Marivae- 
 numu, 111 ; at Nameanumu, 112 ; 
 at Orofedabe, 114 ; at Meroka, 
 116; at Sogeri, 117; at Keni- 
 numu, 120 ; at Makapili, 122 ; 
 at Chokinumu, 123 ; at Astrolabe 
 Kange, 124 ; at Laroki Falls, 125 ; 
 at Janara, 126; at Karikatana, 
 127 ; at Maiva, 134 ; at Oiapu, 
 135; at Jolcea, 136; at Coombes 
 Biver, 136 ; at Macey Lagoon, 
 137; at Motumotu, 138; at 
 Karama, 139 ; at Silo, 140 ; at 
 Manumanu, 155 ; at Kabadi, 157 ; 
 at Iduna, 162; at Doura, 166; 
 at East Cape, 251 ; at Boera, 
 268 ; at Yule Island, 270 ; at 
 Maiva, 272 ; at Kaili, 281 ; at 
 
 Hula, 284; at Kalo, 291; at 
 Kerepunu, 293 ; at Aroma, 
 297 ; at Parimata, 297 ; at 
 Moapa, 298 ; at Boera, 305 
 Chalmers, Mrs., coolness of, 59 
 Chokinumu, reception at, 123 
 Charms, native, 117, 152 
 Child burial, a, 306 
 Chinamen, murder of, 155 
 Clams, size of, 334 
 Coombes Biver, the, 136 
 Counting, mode of, 163 
 Cucumbers, wild, 259 
 Cucus, native use of, 303 
 
 Dance, description of, 55, 169, 302 
 Darnley Island, description of, 26 ; 
 
 Sunday at, 27 
 Daunai, reception at, 70 
 Dead, treatment of, by Koiari, 307 
 Dedele, reception at, 76 
 Delena, people of, 181 
 Dingo, the, 260 
 
 Dinner Island, description of, 322 
 Dornara, reception at, 78 
 Dress, native, description of, 149 
 Drill, native, 320 
 Dubus, native, 185, 281 
 Dufaure Island, description of, 80 
 
 East Cape, sickness at, 57 
 Echidna, description of, 276 
 Elema, people of, 147 
 Elephantiasis, prevalence of, 142 
 ' Ellengowan Bay, reception at, 69 
 Embalming, mode of, 307 
 Enona, the, 161 
 
 Fear of each other, native, 91 
 Ferries, native, 160 
 Firearms, missionaries and use of, 
 52 
 
 Fireflies, 284 
 
 Fortcscuc Straits, scenery of, 45 
 
INDEX. 
 
 339 
 
 Freshwater Bay, 138 
 Friendship, native sign of, 92 
 
 Gidage and Tamate, meeting of, 77 
 Gill, Itev. W. IV., arrival of, at Port 
 Moresby, 257 ; experiences of, at 
 Port Moresby, 257 ; at Boera, 
 2G8 ; at Hule Island, 270 ; at 
 Maiva, 272; at Kaili, 281; at 
 Hula, 284 ; at Kalo, 291 ; at 
 Kercpunu, 293 ; at Aroma, 297 ; 
 at Parimata, 297 ; at Moapa, 298 ; 
 at Boera, 305 ; at Bolibada, 309 ; 
 first ride of, 310 ; at Laroki, 314 ; 
 at Baruni, 319 ; at Dinner Island, 
 322 ; at Tissot Island, 327 ; at 
 South Cape, 327 
 Ginger, native, 127 
 Goldie, Mr., meeting with, 32 
 Gordon Eange, the Sir Arthur, 148 
 Grandmother, dried, 79 
 Grasses, native, 314 
 Grubs, a feast of, 108 
 Gucheng, teacher at Darnlcy Is- 
 land, 27 
 
 Hammocks, native, 162 
 Haru, reception at, 236 
 Head-dresses, manufacture of, 101 
 Hood’s Lagoon, 293 
 Hoop-iron, demand for, 42 
 Hoop Iron Bay, description of, 45 
 Horns, as ornaments, 289 
 House-building at South Cape, 50 
 Houses on tree-tops, 34 
 
 , marine, 281 
 
 Hula, appearance of, 39, 284 
 boy, cowardice of, 81 
 
 Ibunisi, work of, 322 
 Iduna, people of, 162 
 Iguanas, description of, 259 
 Ingham Hills, 140 
 Inverary Bay, reception at, 64 
 Ioane, work of, 283 
 
 Isaako, work of, 312 
 
 Jack Fruit, the, 271 
 Jakoni, the, 115 
 James, Dr., murder of, 221 
 Janara, reception at, 126 
 Jare, district of, 143 
 Jaroga, a chief, visit to, 119 
 Jew’s harp, native, 320 
 Jokea, description of, 136 
 Jute, native, 297 
 Jungle fowl, 316 
 
 Kabadi, description of, 157 
 Kailu, people of, 147 
 Kalo, massacre at, 205 ; reception 
 at, 291 
 
 Kapakapa, appearance of, 38 
 Karama, people of, 139 
 Karikatana, reception at, 127 
 Kaurepinu, the, 139 
 Kemp-Welck Biver, the, 290 
 Ivenakagara, natives of, description 
 of, 97 
 
 Keninuma, reception at, 89, 120 
 Kerema district, the, 141 
 Kerepunu, description of, 40, 293 ; 
 
 Sunday at, 41 
 Keuru district, the, 141 
 Kevani, reception at, 174 
 Keveri, reception at, 187 
 Ivillerton Island, reception at, 46 
 King Bird of Paradise, 277 
 Koapena, history of, 298 
 Koiari, the, character of, 128 
 
 , treatment of dead, 307 
 
 Kone, death of, 224 
 Kuui, meeting with, 124 
 Kupele, people of, 130 
 Kuragori, reception at, 79 
 
 Lakatoi (canoes), description of, 258 
 Laroki, the, course of, 120 ; passage 
 of, 32 
 
 Laroki Falls, visit to, 125 
 
 i 
 
340 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Laroki district, description of, 314 
 Lawes, Rev. W. G., appearance of 
 29 ; service by, 3G ; trip of, with 
 Mr. Chalmers, 37 ; remains at 
 Kerepunu, 41 ; labours of, 203 
 Lawes Bay, 05 
 Liljeblad passage, the, 279 
 Limes, introduction of, 278 
 Lohiamalaka, chief, friendship of, 
 125; anecdote of, 315 
 Lolo, hostile incursion of, 212 
 
 Mabina, the, 101 
 Macey Lagoon, 137 
 Maikona, the, 101 
 Mailu, hostile reception at, 80 
 Maipua, people of, 144 
 Maiva, description of, 134 
 Maiva district, description of, 272 
 Maivau, the, 147 
 Maka, meeting with, 91 
 Makapili, reception at, 122 
 Mama, the chief, 233 
 Mamoa, people of, 179 
 Mango, description of, 37 
 Mangrove, the, 303 
 Manumanu, reception of, 155 
 Maratu River, the, 137 
 Marine houses, 281 
 Marivaeanumu, reception at, 111 
 Massacre of teachers, 205 
 Mataio, work of, 327 
 Matting, native, 329 
 Mayri, native killed on board the, 58 
 McFarlane, Rev. S., experiences 
 of, with Rev. J. Chalmers, dee 
 Chalmers. 
 
 Meauri, village of, 218 
 Meiklc Bay, reception at, 07 
 Meroka, reception at, 110 
 Moapa, description of, 298 
 Morabi, district of, 157 
 Mosquitoes, native defence against, 
 274 
 
 Moresby Island, natives of, 45 
 Motu Lavao, people of, 220 
 Motumotu, reception at, 138, 200 
 Moumiri, reception at, 87 
 Mount Alexander, 149 
 Mount Bellamy, ascent of, 101 
 Mount Chapman, 139 
 Mount Charlton, 149 
 Mount Elsie, ascent of, 105 
 Mount Gill, 148 
 
 Mount Owen Stanley, view of, 35 
 Mourning, token of, 35, 271 
 Moveave, people of, 139 
 Muro, district of, 143 
 Murray Island, description of, 28 ; 
 
 service on, 28 ; native wigs, 28 
 Mythology, native, 151, 103 
 
 Naimi, conduct of, 150 
 Nameanumu, reception at, 1 12 
 Naroopoo, reception at, 04 
 Noisy conduct of natives, 105 
 Nose, rubbing of, a salutation, 41 
 
 Oa, death of, 185 
 Oiapu, reception at, 135 
 Okari, the nut, 101 
 Opossum, flying, 302 
 Oriopc, a chief, friendliness of, 95 
 Orofedabe, reception at, 114 
 : Orokolo, district of, 142 
 
 , people of, 233 
 
 Oysters, 259 
 
 Panaroa, the, 144 
 Pandanus fibre, 331 
 Parimata, description of, 297 
 Parrot shot, surprise of natives at, 
 08 
 
 Pi, work of, 321 
 Picnic, New Guinea, 239 
 Pigs, treatment of, by aborigines, 
 84 ; savage, 97, 317 
 Pigeons, crested, 314 
 
INDEX. 
 
 34i 
 
 Piri, the teacher, appearance of, 29 ; 
 liouse and church of, ISO ; work 
 of, 305 
 
 Plovers, spur-winged, 30G 
 Plumes, feather, 334 
 Poroko and his wives, 129 
 Port Glasgow, reception at, 72 
 Port Moresby, arrival at, 31 ; ap- 
 pearance of, 31 : Sunday at, 30 ; 
 description of, 257 ; Sunday at, 
 200 ; baptism at, 203 
 Potipoti, tire, 32S 
 
 Quarrels with natives, 52, 53 ; a 
 man shot, 58 
 
 Rain-making, 179 
 Rattan palms, 315 
 Roboama, work of, 281 
 Round Head, natives of, 39 
 Roux Islands, reception at, 05 
 Ruako, baptism of, 203 
 Ruatoka, work of, 310 
 
 Sago palm, description of, 200, 274 
 Sailing directions, 153 
 Salt, native fondness for, 91 
 Salutation, mode of, 41 
 Saw, stolen by natives, 55 
 Scale-breasted Paradise Birds, 278 
 Seed, poisonous, 37 
 Scmese, worship of, 138 
 Sigokiro, reception at, 79 
 Silo, reception at, 69, 140 
 Skittle Rocks, the, 157 
 Skulls, trade in, 331 
 Snake banquet, a, 105 
 Sogeri, reception at, 117 
 Someri, treachery of, 119 
 Somerset, arrival of missionaries at, 
 20 
 
 Sorcerer, native, 188 
 Sorceress, burial of, 30 
 
 South Cape, reception at, 47 ; Sun- 
 days at, 51, 55 ; a man shot at, 58 
 South Sea Island kava met with, 
 108 
 
 Spiritists, native, 109 
 Stacy Islanders, cannabalism of. 48 
 Suau district, description of, 327 
 Sun dance, 302 
 
 Sunday at Damley Island, 27 ; at 
 Murray Island, 28 ; at Port Mores- 
 by, 30, 200; at Kerepunu, 41 ; at 
 Ivillerton Island, 47 ; at South 
 Cape, 51, 55 ; at Amazon Bay, 
 75 ; at Manumanu, 108 ; at lve- 
 vani, 174 ; at Namoa, 179 ; at 
 Iveveri, 187 ; at Motumotu, 200 ; 
 at Delena, 210, 217 ; at Motu 
 Lavao, 220 ; at Orokolo, 233 ; 
 at Haru, 230 ; at East Cape, 251 ; 
 at Maiva, 275; at Hula, 2S8 ; at 
 Tissot Island, 327 
 
 Taboo, the, 18G 
 Tabooed place, a, 44 
 Tailed natives, supposed, 110 
 Tamate and Gidage, meeting of, 77 
 Tanosina, reception at, 04 
 Tarova, district of, 108 
 Teinaore, teacher, narrow escape of 
 wife of, 300 
 Tepauri, visit to, 57 
 Teste Island, natives of, 41 ; house 
 on, purchased, 43 
 Thorngren, murder of, 22 1 
 Tight-lacing, native, 274 
 Tobacco, native fondness for, 32 
 Tobokau, people of, 100 
 Toulon, women at, 73 
 Treachery Point, 143 
 Tree houses, 92, 320 
 Tupuselei, appearance of, 37 
 
 Ukerave, district of, 147 
 Urita, the, 147 
 
342 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Vailala, people of, 142 
 Village Island, 2(1 
 
 Wigs, native, 28 
 Wild animals, 117 
 Williams, River, the, 138, 203 
 
 Women, treatment of, 44 
 Woman’s Land, a supposed, 72 
 
 Yams, cultivation of, 313 
 York Island, 20 
 
 Zamia, the, 310 
 
 LONDON: PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND >ONS, LIMITED, 
 STAMFORD STREET AND CIIARING CROSS. 
 
MISSIONARY BOOKS 
 
 PUBLISHED BY THE 
 
 IReltotous XEiact Society. 
 
 Tlie Religious Tract Society intend to issue from time to time, books 
 on Mission Work, written by those who are actively engaged in the 
 work, and who can give clear and true pictures of the present state 
 of affairs in their respective fields of labour. These volumes will 
 contain very much information of unusual interest to the general 
 reader as well as to all those who rejoice at the many evidences given 
 in these days that the Gospel of Christ continues to win glorious 
 victories over superstition, ignorance, cruelty, and heathenism. The 
 following works have already appeared : — 
 
 MADAGASCAR AND FRANCE. With some Account of the 
 
 Island, its People, its Resources, and Development. By George A. Shaw, F.Z.S. 
 London Mission, Tamatave. With many Illustrations and a Map. Demy 8vo. 
 6s. cloth boards. 
 
 This work seeks not only to set forth a true historical sketch of the connection of 
 France with Madagascar from the earliest times to the present, by which it will be 
 seen how little claim the former has to the island, or to the sympathies of its 
 inhabitants; but also to answer various questions which are arising in the minds of 
 many with regard to the country — its products and adaptability for foreign enterprise 
 and commerce— and its people, their character, habits, employments, and advance in 
 civilisation and Christianity. 
 
 This volume is of unusual interest, possessing in the narratives the vividness of an 
 eye-witness and the accuracy of one who writes from first-hand knowledge. A 
 personal interest attaches to the work from the prominent part played by Mr. Shaw 
 himself in many of the scenes described. The book contains a large new map of 
 Madagascar, and many illustrations from original sketches of photographs, finely 
 engraved by E. Wbymper. 
 
 Crown 8 vo., 5$. "cloth boards. 
 
 OLD HIGHWAYS IN CHINA. By Isabelle Williamson, 
 
 of the London Mission, Cbefoo. With many Illustrations and a Map. 
 
 Mrs. Williamson was the first Western lady to travel through the great provinces 
 of Shantung and Chi Li. 5>he speaks Chinese, and she has given in this book 
 much interesting information . 
 
 “This book, written as it is by an acute and experienced observer, and in a 
 pleasant and lively style, is certainly well worth reading.” — Spectator. 
 
 “ One of the most instructive and entertaining works of the kind we have ever met 
 with.” — Schoolmaster . 
 
 Crown 8 vo., 6s. cloth boards. 
 
 PROTESTANT MISSIONS IN INDIA FROM THEIR 
 
 COMMENCEMENT in 1706 to 1882. By the Rev. M. A. Sherring, M.A., LL.B. 
 Newly revised and brought down to date by the Rev. E. Stokrow. With four 
 Maps. 
 
 The only complete sketch of the History and present state of the Protestant 
 Missions in India. '1 he iViaps will he found on examination the best that have 
 yet appeared, showing the various agencies at work at each station. 
 
 “ This book has already taken its place as the standard authority on the subject.” 
 — British Quarterly Review. 
 
 “ Kenovaied and improved with four useful maps, in one compact and well- 
 printed volume. It is instructive and interesting Irom many points of view.” — 
 Daily Sews. 
 
 THE RELIGIOUS TRACT SOCIETY, 56, Paternoster Row, London. 
 
 [ Continued . 
 
The Religions Tract Society's Missionary Boohs — continued. 
 
 Demy 8vo. 6s. cloth boards. 
 
 AMONG THE MONGOLS. By the Rev. James Gilmoub, M.A. 
 (of Peking). With Map and numerous Engravings from Photographs and 
 Native Sketches. 
 
 “ There is a charm in the quiet way in which the modest missionary tells of his life 
 in Tartar tents, of the long rides across the grassy plain, and of the daily life of the 
 nomads among whom he passed so many years.” — Fortnightly Review. 
 
 ‘ A really remarkable chronicle of travel and adventure.” — Globe. 
 
 “ We cordially recommend Mr. Gilmour’s racy book.” — The Academy. 
 
 Crown 8vo., 2s. 6 d. cloth boards. 
 
 OUR EASTERN SISTERS, AND THEIR MISSIONARY 
 
 HELPERS By Harriet Warner Elms. 
 
 “There is in the world much silly and some spiteful talk about Missionaries ; no 
 better refutation could be found than is offered in this unpretending little book.” — 
 Spectator. 
 
 ‘•A very interesting book.” — Queen. 
 
 ‘•Should be of much use in spreading the knowledge of the real facts regarding 
 female life in many parts of the East.” — Glasgow Herald. 
 
 FOR YOUNG PEOPLE. 
 
 THE MELA AT TULSIPUR. Glimpses of Missionary Life 
 
 and Work in India. A Book for the C lildren. By the Rev. B. H. Badelv, M.A., 
 for ten year-* a Missionary in North India. With many Fine Engravings. 
 4to. f 4 s. cloth, gilt edges. Just published. 
 
 M-las are great heathen religious fes'ivals held in many parts of India, and 
 frequen'ed by great multitudes. This book gives, in words suited to the 
 capacity of children, vivid descriptions of the people met, the scenes witnessed, 
 and the Chri tian work done at oue of these great festivals. It is a companion 
 bjok to “The Children of India.” 
 
 THE CHILDREN OF INDIA. Written for the Children of 
 
 England by one of their Friends. With Illustrations and Map. Small 4to., 4s. 
 bevelled boards, gilt edges. 
 
 A missionary book written for children. The story of Hindu life is simply told; 
 the book is wdl illustrated, and no more interesting gift-book for an intelligent 
 child could well be found. 
 
 CHILD LIFE IN CHINESE HOMES. By Mrs. Bryson, of 
 
 the London Mi-si »n, Wuchang, China. With many Illustrations. Small 4to., 
 cloth boards, gilt edges, 5s. 
 
 Mrs. Bryton ha* sp-nt many years in China, and has given a vivid sketch of 
 Chinese child life, and many most interesting true stories of Chinese children. 
 
 WORKS ON THE RELIGIONS OF THE EAST. 
 
 Crown 8vo. 3s. cloth boards. 
 
 BUDDHISM PAST AND PRESENT. By the Bight Bev. 
 
 J. H. Titcomb, D.D., First Bishop of Rangoon. 
 
 “Dr. Titcomb has seen Buddhism at close quarters, and has had opportunities of 
 estimating its value as a factor in human life from practical experience. He has 
 compressed within the limits of a quite moderate-sized volume a great mass of infor- 
 mation.” — Spectator. 
 
 “ All that could be desired as an easy and well-arranged manual on a really difficult 
 subject.” — Church Missionary Intelligencer. 
 
 “ There is a great deal of information clearly set forth in this book .” — Pall Mall 
 
 Gazette. 
 
 Crown 8vo., 4s. cloth boards. 
 
 MAHOMET AND ISLAM. A Sketch of the Prophet’s Life 
 
 from original sources, and a brief Outline of his Religion. By Sir William Muir, 
 
 K. C.S.I., LL.D., D.C.L., formerly Lieut. -Governor of the North-west Provinces 
 of India. Author of “ The Life of Mahomet,’' “ Annals of the Early Caliphate," 
 etc. With Illustrations and a large Map of Arabia. 
 
 “ A precis of the author’s larger works, hut it is & precis done by the author, which 
 makes all the difference.” — Saturday Review. 
 
 “ Will be useful to those who wish to know the outline of Mahomet’s career in a few 
 words.” — St. James’s Gazette. 
 
 THE RELIGIOUS TRACT SOCIETY, 56, Paternoster Row, London. 
 
DU740.C438 
 
 Work and adventure in New Guinea. 
 
 Princeton Theological Seminary-Speer Library 
 
 1 1012 00056 4551