/•z..// . /6 
 
 PRINCETON, N. J. ^ 
 
 Purchased by the Hamill Missionary Fund. 
 
 BV 3625 .C6 A74 1893 
 Arnot, Fred. S. 1858-1914 
 Bih e and Garenganze 
 
/ 
 
BiHE AND GARENGANZE; 
 
 DEC 4 1916 
 
 OR, 
 
 Jf0wr gears' Jfurt^^r ^ork antr Crafcr^I 
 
 CENTRAL AFRICA 
 
 FRED. S. ARNOT. 
 
 ^tJkl^'UliHi. 
 
 WITH MAPS AND I LLUSTRATION.S."*"' "' 
 
 y% 
 
 ^'^^^cw. 
 
 Ti 
 
 LONDON : J. E. HAWKINS cS^ CO., Ltd., 
 
 17, PATERNOSTER ROW, E.G. ; AND 36, BAKER STREET, W. 
 Bath: Office or "Echoes of Service." 
 
 Price 2s.; Cloth, 2s. 6d. 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 THOSE who are acquainted with Mr. Arnot's previous volume 
 entitled Garengatize will remember that the very extensive 
 kingdom bearing that name, founded by the late king Msidi, was 
 peculiarly one of mushroom growth, and its future was therefore 
 a matter of concern, especially to those who watched the 
 patient effort made by Mr. Arnot and his companions to take 
 the gospel there. Since the publication of that volume, in 1889, 
 there has been a growing interest in the Lord's work in that 
 portion of Central Africa, and many will be glad to know how 
 things have progressed there, and in other places lying on the 
 route to Garenganze, the capital of which is about half way across 
 the continent, and some ten degrees south of the equator. 
 
 Many letters containing information from this part of the Dark 
 Continent have been published in a small periodical called Echoes 
 of Service, but these have come so irregularly, and often at such 
 long intervals, as to make it difficult to gather from them a 
 connected idea of the work. With the object of furnishing this, 
 Mr. Arnot, who is again in England for health's sake, has sought 
 to put together some of the interesting letters and diaries of his 
 fellow-labourers, adding also his own observations. He has 
 refrained from saying much about his share in the work, but this 
 has been valuable in many ways, and not least from his care to 
 preserve the simplicity with which his service was begun. 
 
 At present this field, from Benguella to the centre, is unoccu- 
 pied by others, except at Bailundu and Bihe, where American 
 missionaries were at work before Mr. Arnot went there. It was 
 with no desire to enter upon their labours that a station was 
 established in the Bihe district; but the very serious transport 
 
 31361 
 
iv Preface. 
 
 difficulties made it necessary to form a base there, so as to bring 
 up goods from the coast and forward them to the interior when 
 opportunity offered. At Kwanjulula an unoccupied sphere was 
 found with free scope for the gospel. The line of country between 
 Bihe and Garenganze, however, is that which Mr. Arnot and his 
 fellow-labourers especially have in view, and of which these pages 
 chiefly tell. 
 
 Our little part in the preparation of this volume has been to 
 supply African letters from amongst the large number we receive 
 from many parts of the world, and to give some help in editing, 
 so as to relieve Mr. Arnot, as anything more than light work is 
 likely to frustrate the object for which he is now in England. 
 He expects to set out very shortly for Canada and the United 
 States with Mr. Faulknor, whose marvellous recovery, after three 
 years of very sore suffering in Garenganze, is a cause for much 
 thankfulness. 
 
 We need scarcely add that Mr. Arnot's heart is still in Africa, 
 and as soon as his medical advisers consent to his return he 
 hopes to take up again the work to which he has devoted his 
 life. It was through reading Dr. Livingstone's account that he 
 was first led to Africa, and the tidings he and his companions 
 have been able to furnish have induced a good many others to 
 set out in small parties on the same errand of love. Though three 
 have fallen on the field the deaths have been fewer in com- 
 parison than in many other parts of Africa, and on the whole the 
 plateau on which the three widely-separated stations — Bihe, Nana 
 Kandundu, and Garenganze — are situated may be considered 
 healthy. As we hear of tribe after tribe who are yet without 
 the gospel, we hope that the Christian reader will bear in mind 
 the Lord's command, "Pray ye the Lord of the harvest, that 
 He will send forth labourers into His harvest." 
 
 J. L. Maclean, m.d., Bath. 
 March, 1893. ^^- ^- Bennet, YeovU. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 I. Response to the Call from Africa . . . i 
 
 II. Voyage to Benguella, and Scarcity of Carriers 5 
 
 [March to August, 1S89.) 
 
 III. Heavy Sorrows in Connection with the Second 
 
 Party . . . . . . ii 
 
 (June to October, 1889.) 
 
 IV. Arrival at Bihe — Difficulties with the King 
 
 and with the Portuguese . . . 17 
 
 (October, 18S9, to November, 1890) 
 
 V. From Bihe to Nana Kandundu . . . 24 
 
 {August to October, i8go. 1 
 
 VI. From Nana Kandundu to Garenganze . 49 
 
 [October to November, 1890.) 
 
 VII. Three Years in Garenganze . . . 62 
 
 (February, 1888, to January, 1891.) 
 
 VIII. Reinforcements from Different Lands . . 78 
 
 (May and Jutie, 1891.) 
 
 IX. Commencing at Nana Kandundu ; Encourage- 
 ment IN Bihe . . . . . 84 
 
 (August, i8gi, to April, 1892.) 
 
 X. Garenganze to Lusambo . . . . 92 
 
 (February to August, 1891.) 
 
 XI. From Lusainibo to England by the Congo . .104 
 
 (September, 1891, to February, 1892.) 
 
 XII. Mr. Thompson's Return to Garenganze . .no 
 
 [October to December, 1891.) 
 
 XIII. Downward Course of Events in Garenganze . 113 
 
 (June to October, 1891.) 
 
 XIV. Fall of the Garenganze Kingdom . . . 121 
 
 (November, 1891, to May, 1892.) 
 
 XV. Garenganze after Msidi's Death . .. . 132 
 
 (May to July, 1892.) 
 
 XVI. Closing Remarks . . ... 146 
 
MAPS. 
 
 {In connection with the Narratives attention is specially directed to these.) 
 
 I. Part of Central Africa. 
 
 This has been prepared in order to show the position of various tribes, the 
 chief places on the route between Benguella and Garenganze, and also Mr. 
 Swan's journey from Bunkeya, via Lusambo, to the mouth of the Congo. 
 
 II. Part of the Territory of the Katanga Company. 
 
 When this volume was nearly ready tliis excellent map appeared in the 
 Geographical Journal for March, 1893, and we thankfully reproduce it, by kind 
 permission of the Royal Geographical Society. Tiiough the cartographer, 
 Mr. Ravenstein, says it must merely be accepted provisionally, to show the 
 progress of recent explorations, it gives a better idea of Garenganze and the 
 surrounding country than we have hitherto been able to form. At a glance, 
 the abundance of lakes and rivers is evident, though countless small rivers 
 could not be shewn. The comparative heights of different parts of this region 
 also at once strike the eye, the uncoloured part denoting a level below 3000 
 feet, and the three shades of brown indicating higher levels — up to 4500 feet, 
 6000 feet, and the still more elevated mountain tops. 
 
 The routes of many travellers show how much interest has been bestowed, 
 especially of late, on this part of Central Africa. The earlier explorers were 
 Livingstone, Commander Cameron, Herr Reichard, Messrs. Capello and Ivens 
 (Portuguese), and Lieutenant Giraud (French). The journeys of some more 
 recent explorers will, however, be especially referred to. 
 
 Within the Congo Free State, which occupies much of the centre of Africa, 
 several large commercial companies are at work. To one of these — the 
 Kalanga Company, consisting chiefly of Belgian and British shareholders — the 
 King of the Belgians, who also rules over the Congo State, gave, in 1891, a 
 vast concession, estimated at 250,000 square miles, the sphere of which is 
 shown in the small map in the corner of Mr. Ravenstein's larger one. To take 
 possession and develop the resources of this country — which includes the king- 
 dom of the late chief Msidi — four expeditions were formed, with instructions 
 to traverse the country and meet at Msidi's capital, Bunkeya. A little to the 
 south of this lies Katanga, the copper mines of which have been celebrated for 
 ages. Three of these expeditions proceeded from the north, and one from the 
 east, and their routes will be found on the map. Accounts of the journeys 
 of these caravans would doubtless form large and interesting volumes, but as 
 yet only slight outlines have been published in Le Mouvement Glographiqiie. 
 
Maps. vii 
 
 From these, supplemented by other available information, Mr. Ravenstein 
 has compiled the map which appears at the end of this volume, adding a 
 very brief narrative, of which we avail ourselves. 
 
 Of the three expeditions from the north, two started from Lusambo. One 
 of these, under M. Le Marinel (which was, strictly speaking, a State expedition), 
 followed at first the course of the river Lubi. Captain Bia, starting from the 
 same point, followed the I.ubilash. ]\I. Delcommune, leaving Gonga Lutete 
 on the Lomami, took a line much further to the east. The three routes from 
 the north were thus widely separated. The fourth expedition, under Captain 
 Stairs, started from Zanzibar, and crossing Lake Tanganyika pursued a south- 
 west course. That which would most interest us is the condition of the people 
 mentioned by the different travellers, but as yet little can be gathered concerning 
 them. 
 
 1. M. Le Marinel left his station, Lusambo, December 23rd, 1890, with a 
 well-armed State force, and followed the Lubi river for 100 miles, passing 
 through a densely-populated country hitherto unreached by the slave-raiding 
 Arabs, and abundantly supplied with the produce of the ground and live stock. 
 At Chikunga he left the Lubi and entered Kanioka, the country which lies 
 between it and the Lubilash, The Balunga who inhabit this, part also live in 
 comparative comfort. The Kalendwe live on the east side of the Lubilash, a 
 numerous tribe, distinguished by their well-kept roads. South of them are the 
 Babondo, who occupy stockaded villages, and are at constant war with each 
 other. The Samba country, of which we have often heard, is still further 
 south, and contains several small lakes, with much game. Beyond the Lubudi 
 and Lualaba rivers, the Bena Kalamba were found, inhabiting stockaded 
 villages, and in time of danger they retire to caverns in the Kanke mountains, 
 which attain a height of 5400 feet. Having reached Bunkeya, April i8th, 
 1891, in a little less than four months, M. Le Marinel established his com- 
 panion, Lieut. Legat, in a fort on the Lufoi river, and took his return journey, 
 of which particulars will be found in Mr. Swan's Diary. (See Chap, x.) 
 
 2. M. Delcommune started from Gonga Lutete on the Lomami. He 
 mentions the Luba " Street Villages," one of which had a length of five miles. 
 From Kilemba Museya's he made a detour to the Samba country, after his 
 return proceeding to Lake Kasali, and in skirting it passed through Kikonja, 
 where one of his officers, Lieut. Hakansson, and twelve of his men were killed 
 by the Ba-luba. Pursuing his way to the east of the Lufira M. Delcommune 
 reached Bunkeya October 6th, 1891, having been nearly five months on the 
 journey. In November he proceeded to survey the country to the south 
 of Bunkeya, Katanga proper, where the copper mines are situated. Thence he 
 went on to Ntenke's, to which place Messrs. Thompson and Crawford were 
 about to proceed when we last heard from them. M. Delcommune then 
 crossed over to the Lualaba, at a place called Musima, where he built boats 
 with the thought of descending the river; but at the Nzilo falls, where the 
 river pours down a narrow gorge 1000 feet deep, he was obliged, as mentioned 
 by Mr. Crawford, to give up the attempt to follow the river, and again 
 returned to Bunkeya, June 8th, 1892. He then proceeded northwards and 
 reached Lake Tanganyika, from which he descended the river Lukuga, thus 
 proving that it joined the Lualaba at Lake Lanji. Accounts have just been 
 received of his having reached Stanley Pool in safety. 
 
viii Bih^ and Garenganse. 
 
 3. Captain Stairs started from Bagamoyo July 4th, 1891, \^ith his large 
 caravan of Zanzibaris, for Lake Tanganyika, and having crossed it he left 
 Mrumbi October 31st, journeying by Cifuntwe's (the old chief, whose death 
 Mr. Crawford mentions) to Bunkeya, where he arrived December 14th. The 
 narrative of his brief stay at the capital, and of Msidi's being shot by Captain 
 Bodson, who was himself immediately killed, will be found in these pages. 
 The coming of Captain Bia's party enabled Captain Stairs to leave February 
 8th with his much-reduced caravan. Though he had safely passed through 
 the trying vicissitudes of Stanley's last expedition, fever now seized upon him, 
 and, as already known, he only lived to reach the mouth of the Zambesi. 
 
 4. Captain Bia started from Lusambo after Mr. Swan had reached that place. 
 His course was an intermediate one between those of M. Le Marinel and M. 
 Delcommune. In the first part of his journey the country was found to 
 be laid waste by Arab slave hunters ; but further south the Ba-luba occupied 
 large unstockaded villages, and cultivated the ground. At Moina Mpafu's 
 Captain Bia established a "garrison" of three men, and all the villages to the 
 south were found defended by stockades against the Arabs and neighbours. A 
 pastoral plateau 4000 feet high, abounding in wooded ravines and stockaded 
 villages, separates the Luembe from the Lomami. The country then becomes 
 low and swampy, and further east is said to be a wooded savannah, the villages 
 being stockaded and hidden among trees. The natives use bows, poisoned 
 arrows, and javelins. Lake Kabele adjoins the Lualaba below Lake Upemba, 
 not far above the hot springs, which Captain Bia visited. Thence he reached 
 Bunkeya, much by the same route that M. Le Marinel and Mr. Swan took, 
 crossing the lofty hills where bamboo forests abound. Recent tidings mention 
 the death of Captain Bia on the way to Chitambo's, south of Lake Bangweolo, 
 but Lieut. Franqui, one of his officers, proceeded there, having with him the 
 memorial plate recording the death of Livingstone, which Mr. Arnothad taken 
 as far as Nana Kandundu, and then handed to Mr. Thompson. 
 
 The information gained by these various expeditions has not been without 
 serious loss of life, not only to the Europeans who accompanied them, but also 
 to very many of the natives, who succumbed in large numbers, owing to want 
 of sufficient food, disease, and hardships. 
 
 Space only allows us to add a few general remarks, connected more 
 especially with the question of transport. All hopes of communication with 
 Garenganze by means of the Congo have to be given up, navigation on the 
 large rivers — Lubilash, Lufira, Lualaba, and Luapula — being impeded by 
 shallows, rapids, or cataracts. Communication from the West Coast is, as we 
 know, very tedious. To the east of Bunkeya the Kundelungu range presents a 
 serious obstacle, and the only other available routes appear to be to the south 
 of Lake Bangweolo by the Zambesi or Lake Nyassa, but even these would not 
 be without difficulties. Strenuous efforts are being made, we understand, to 
 establish communication in this direction. Meanwhile, to reach the country is 
 till an exceedingly toilsome process. 
 
Nicunhoi 
 
 weolo 
 
 iChitcurCbo 
 
 ,>*'-' 
 
 ^ 
 
BiHE AND GARENGANZE; 
 
 OR, 
 
 FOUR YEARS' FURTHER WORK IN CENTRAL AFRICA. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 Response to tfte €all fiom Africa. 
 
 THE central region of the African continent, so long regarded 
 as hopelessly savage, inaccessible, and pestiferous, has in 
 recent years become the object of lively interest to many ; and 
 the scripture, " He will destroy . . . the face of the covering 
 cast over all people, and the vail that is spread over all nations," 
 is being in measure fulfilled. Since Dr. Livingstone's first great 
 journey in 1854 scarcely a year has passed without bringing to 
 light some new part of the interior of this vast continent, and 
 it has been abundantly made manifest that the Church of God in 
 Great Britain and America has had the spiritual destitution of 
 Africa laid heavily upon its conscience by the Holy Ghost. 
 
 It is not now "a man of Macedonia" calling an apostle to 
 " come over " from Asia to the help of the benighted continent of 
 Europe, but it is the mute appeal of a man of Africa on behalf of 
 his dark and long-neglected country that has weighed as a burden 
 on the spirit of many of God's faithful ones. Some of these, 
 " assuredly gathering " God's mind, not from " vision," but from 
 reported facts concerning the misery and sore need, have left 
 their home, with its happy ministries and fellowship, and have 
 gone forth in obedience to the call of the Spirit of God ; while 
 
2 Bihe and Garenganze. 
 
 others, equally persuaded of their responsibility, have sought to 
 sustain them in their service. That the faith of those who have 
 thus helped as well as of those who have gone forth has been 
 and is tried, often to severest tension and from causes strange 
 and unprecedented, only demonstrates that God's thoughts and 
 ways are as unfathomable as our faith is shallow. 
 
 FAREWELL MEETING IN LONDON. 
 
 The little company who were commended to God at a farewell 
 meeting held at Exeter Hall, London, on the 19th of March, 
 1889, and left England on the 22nd for service in Central 
 Africa, experienced their full share of perplexity, anxiety, and 
 sorrow ; but the survivors have also had much proof of God's 
 watchful care and delivering mercy. Some of these varied 
 experiences it is the object of the following pages to set forth, 
 but it may be well first to recall the words of cheer and 
 encouragement given to us by our brethren at the meeting on 
 the eve of our departure. 
 
 Dr. Neatby reminded us that "God was in Christ reconciling 
 the world unto Himself," and that Christ had " committed unto 
 us the word of reconciliation." " It behoved Christ to suffer'' — if 
 He would unfold that heart of eternal love — "and to rise from 
 the dead the third day; and that repentance and remission of 
 sins should be preached in His name among all nations, 
 beginning at Jerusalem." This was the message we had to take 
 to the poor savages of Africa. 
 
 The late Mr. Henry Groves added : 
 
 In Hebrews x. 36 we read, " For ye have need of patience, that 
 after ye have done the will of God ye might receive the promise." 
 Let us begin with patience, and go on with it, and not expect to 
 receive the promise until we have done the will of God. " He that 
 shall come will come." Christ will not loiter on the way, and let 
 us not look back. Looking back is the beginning of going back. 
 The eleventh chapter tells us of faith as a substance, and the 
 twelfth exhorts us to run with patience, "looking unto Jesus." It 
 is blessed to notice the way in which faith is brought in between 
 the hope of the Lord's coming and the present time of service. 
 Faith also brings us nearer to one another in spirit as day by day 
 passes and the coming of the Son of God draws nigh. 
 
 There is a peculiar interest in the fact that Africa is now absorbing 
 
Farewell Meethig. 3 
 
 so much interest in the political, commercial, and religious world, 
 because Africa is coming in last. It has to be included, that the 
 blessed Lord Jesus may yet gather out of Africa those who shall 
 be to the praise of the glory of His grace in the ages to come. 
 Let us expect great things from God as we draw near the con- 
 summation of the ages, and let our faith be a reality. Our Lord 
 said, " When the Son of man cometh shall He find faith on the 
 earth 1 " and it is solemn to think there is nothing the Church lacks 
 so much now as faith in God. People often say, " I believe in God ; 
 I believe in the Holy Ghost." I often ask myself the question, " Do 
 I believe in God ? " 
 
 God blows upon a great deal that is done, because it is done in the 
 energy of the flesh and not in the power of God. If God were in 
 our work, a very little would go a long way. The Church of God is 
 left here as a witness to the reality of the presence and power of the 
 living God, but there is nothing in which the Church has so much 
 failed as in manifesting the presence of the living God in her midst. 
 But, oh, for patient waiting for the Advent ! May the Lord breathe 
 patience into these impatient hearts of ours, whether as toilers in 
 Africa, or in our daily work in this land, and may the hope of the 
 Advent bring patience into all our labour. 
 
 Faith in God will accomplish mighty realities for us, if we lay hold 
 on the omnipotence of God. God wants our faith to be a " sub- 
 stance." People say sometimes, " What are you going to depend 
 upon?" "Upon the living God" ought to be the answer. If you 
 have Him you have everything ; if not, you have nothing. We need 
 to learn that money is not almighty. What the Church has to learn 
 is that God does not need money. He wants trust in the living God. 
 You may be asked, " Who gives you your salary .'' Where is your 
 pay to come from ?" The answer again must be, " I get my pay from 
 God ; God sends the pay." When God sent Elijah, He sent him to 
 the brook Cherith, and fed him by means of ravens. " But are you 
 going to trust to ravens.''" If God gives the ravens food for His 
 servant they will bring every bit of it, because God sends them. 
 Remember this, however, not to go to the brook Cherith unless God 
 sends you. 
 
 When Elijah was about to offer his sacrifice on Mount Carmel he 
 cried to God for fire from heaven, but what did he do first ? He got 
 four barrels of water, and the people at his bidding poured them over 
 the sacrifice, not once, nor twice, but three times. Elijah knew what 
 he was doing, and we need to have the fire of nature's enthusiasm 
 extinguished in us, so that when all is gone, and not a spark is left, 
 then the fire from heaven may come. A little discouragement of any 
 one now may save him much trouble and sorrow afterwards. Yet, 
 
4 Bihe mid Garenganze. 
 
 let us take care what we do ; let us not quench the Spirit of God in 
 any one. But we do need fire fro7}i heaven. It may be we want 
 something to do. But God may wish us to sit down first, and do 
 nothing. It took forty years to teach Moses that he was nobody. 
 When loe learn that, God can use us. God wants a nobody to do 
 His work. The reason why many of us are set aside is because we 
 want to be somebody. 
 
 Some years ago I saw a picture in a friend's house, having an ox 
 with an altar on one side and a plough on the other, and these words 
 underneath, " Ready for either." Are you ready for either ? If you 
 are not ready for the altar as well as for the plough, do not go with 
 the gospel to Africa, or any other land. The three Hebrews were 
 prepared to go into the furnace. They knew God could deliver them ; 
 but if He did not, they were still prepared to take the consequences. 
 But we have a higher example — " looking unto Jesus . . . who endured 
 the cross." He is our perfect pattern. The blessed Jesus never looked 
 at the cost. He never told Peter how much it would cost his Lord 
 to redeem him ; and whenever we begin to bargain as to the cost, we 
 have got upon the lines of Judas Iscariot. Christ looked to the joy 
 that was set before Him, and He is now seated at the right hand of 
 God. Those who are about to go forth for Christ will meet with 
 disappointments and discouragements, and the devil will seek in 
 every way to hinder them, but let them trust in the living God and 
 He will never fail them nor forsake them. 
 
CHAPTER II. 
 
 Fogage to 23engueUa anli scarcity of ©atmrs. 
 
 (March to August, i88g.) 
 
 THE difficulty previously experienced by missionaries on 
 arriving at Benguella in procuring means of transport inland 
 from the coast, made it advisable that the outgoing company 
 should be divided into two parties. The first was composed of 
 the following : 
 
 Mr. Daniel Crawford, formerly lawyer's clerk, from Greenock ; 
 
 Mr. George Fisher, for many years assistant to a medical prac- 
 titioner at Swansea ; 
 
 Mr. Frederick Lane, previously employed in the office at Scot- 
 land Yard ; 
 
 Mr. Archibald Munnoch, formerly a miner, from Falkirkshire, 
 who was commended as one suited to be a helper of others 
 in transport and other service ; 
 
 My wife and myself. 
 
 Each servant of Christ, in a very real sense, went forth on his 
 own responsibility to his Master, though not independently of 
 fellow-Christians with whom he had been associated at home, 
 and w^ho gave their fellowship and counsel. As workers we were 
 bound together in serving one common Master ; not because this 
 was in our judgment the wisest way or the happiest way ; but 
 simply because it was the only scriptural way which we could 
 discover ; and I believe that must ever be the happiest and surest 
 path, although I acknowledge that all its joy and safety hangs 
 upon the very fine point of individual spirituality and subjection 
 to the will of Christ. 
 
 Mr. Lane wrote thus en route to Benguella : 
 
 We had a fair passage to Lisbon, which we reached on the 30th 
 March, and where we were well cared for at a moderate cost at the 
 
6 Bihe and Garenganze. [April 
 
 Hotel Durand. During the time we were there we distributed many 
 copies of the tract, Safety, Certainty, and Enjoyniertt, printed in 
 Portuguese. We left Lisbon April 6th, and for two days had very 
 rough weather and much sea sickness. But by the time we reached 
 Madeira, on the evening of the 8th, the sea had considerably calmed 
 down. There we were met by Mr. Smart, who has charge of the 
 Sailors' Rest. Our arrival having been announced to two or three 
 Christians in the neighbourhood, they came together and warmly com- 
 mended us to God. One of them gave us the following scriptures, 
 " All things are delivered unto Me of My Father " ; " All power is 
 given unto Me," etc. Our next port was St. Vincent. There we were 
 entertained by a brother named Everleigh, who is toiling on almost 
 alone, having many difficulties to contend with. The next day we 
 arrived at Santiago (another of the Cape Verd Islands), quite an 
 inviting little spot, which I would bring under the prayerful notice of 
 Christians. There are about 3000 inhabitants, mostly coloured. We 
 are now approaching the island of Principe, eight or nine days from 
 the last stopping-place, so we have had more time for letter writing, 
 etc. The time slips away very quickly, being fully occupied with 
 Bible study, Portuguese lessons, and various other things. I wish 
 much that I could speak Portuguese, as such good opportunities 
 present themselves for conversation. However, as we are unable to 
 do this, I do trust that our actions may speak, that Christ may be 
 seen in us, and that He may be glorified in us. To live thus incurs 
 reproach now, but we think of the joy of that day. His "Well 
 done !" will far more than repay us for all sufferings down here. 
 The joyous prospect of that day makes it comparatively easy to leave 
 home with all its loving surroundings, and increases one's desire to 
 reach the land in which I believe the Lord has called me to labour. 
 I pray that God may give me a tender and sympathetic heart towards 
 the poor Africans, that in all love I may bear the tidings of salvation 
 to them. How precious is that promise, " My God shall supply all 
 your need according to His riches in glory by Christ Jesus." 
 
 " Is the wilderness before thee, 
 
 Desert lands where drought abides ? 
 
 Heavenly springs shall there restore thee, 
 
 Fresh from God's exhaustless tides." 
 
 Mr. D. Crawford's brief account was : 
 
 You cannot know how happy we all are together. Our day has two 
 divisions, namely, Bible reading and language studying. Last Lord's- 
 day about 50 in the forecastle gathered round us to hear Mr. Arnot 
 speak, and listened very quietly and with a seeming appreciation. 
 As we plough onward day by day to that place whither He has called 
 
1889.] Scarcity of Carriers. 7 
 
 us, we can only plead for His equipment and the manifestation of that 
 victorious Presence in our work. We would in the fear of God tread 
 the path of simplicity and integrity, and to this end please pray for us. 
 
 DIFFICULTY OF OBTAINING CARRIERS. 
 
 At Loanda I received a letter from Mr. Sanders, of the 
 American Mission at Benguella, saying that carriers were very 
 scarce, and consequently they had for a long time been unable 
 to supply their own stations at Bailundu and Bihe with necessary 
 provisions. 
 
 We arrived safely at Benguella on May 9th. The following 
 remarks, taken from a letter written b)' me at the time, describe 
 the situation : 
 
 Mr. Sanders had gone inland three weeks previously in search of 
 carriers for us as well as for their own transport, as the American 
 missionaries have very many loads here awaiting carriers. Dr. 
 Webster died of fever, at Benguella, five days before our arrival, 
 and we found Mrs. Sanders and Mrs. Webster alone, and in very 
 poor health. Dick was waiting for us on the little iron jetty, and 
 glad I was to see the dear lad, who had made his way to the coast 
 from Garenganze to meet me. He had brought no carriers with 
 him. A letter from Mr. Currie, Chisambo, said that no carriers 
 were procurable ; he could not even get a man to take him over 
 to their annual mission meeting. Mr. Fay, of Bihe, writes, "A(7 
 carriers," after doing his utmost for months. Every man able to 
 leave home has gone to the rubber trade. Mr. Sanders, writing 
 from Bailundu, says he has visited the chief, and has no prospect 
 of any carriers from there for several months. Yesterday I went 
 to Catumbella, where I met quite a number of old friends from up 
 country, but saw there was little prospect of getting men ; indeed 
 some of the wealthier native traders have had to store a lot of their 
 stuff in Catumbella for lack of carriers. 
 
 Thus the way does seem not only difficult, but shut against us, 
 and our only course will be to look about for some suitable pack 
 animals — oxen, mules, or donkeys — to take our goods as far, at 
 least, as Bihe. Oxen are difficult to train, and fret themselves in the 
 narrow native paths. Donkeys can be had in Benguella, but not 
 trained to carry. We propose to train a few, but they would not 
 suffice ; so, after much consideration, we have decided to send to 
 Teneriffe or Santiago for a supply of mules, say twelve, each of which 
 would carry at least three men's loads. The difficulty in the meantime 
 is very great. If prospects do not greatly improve I would advise any 
 in the next party whose health might be endangered by a few months' 
 stay at Benguella to go on to Mossamedes, 
 
8 Bihe and Garenganze. [Aug. 
 
 Fortunately the Eastern Telegraph Company had just finished 
 laying a cable along the West Coast of Africa, and the first paid 
 message from Benguella was one from me informing the second 
 party of the state of matters. As things seemed to grow worse 
 instead of better I sent two other telegraphic messages, in 
 order to make sure that they should not set forth blindly on 
 a path beset with so many obstacles. An order was also sent 
 to the island of Santiago for twelve pack mules, in the hope 
 that the second party might bring the animals with them to 
 Benguella. 
 
 Mr. Sanders returned from Bailundu, having hastened down 
 on account of Dr. Webster's death. He brought no carriers, 
 and held out no prospect of any being found for us. So with 
 the help of six men, a horse, a donkey, and the loan of Mr. 
 Sanders' mule, Messrs. Lane and Munnoch, my wife and I, 
 started for Bailundu, leaving Messrs. G. Fisher and Crawford at 
 the coast to await the arrival of the second party. 
 
 l^ate in the evening we left Catumbella, a trading town which 
 has a small white population of rather more than one hundred, 
 and camped for the night among the barren limestone hills that 
 gird the coast. Next day we reached the Shupwa Pass about 
 midday. Mr. Lane seemed to be exhausted with the journey, 
 and ere night he was down with an attack of fever and dysentery. 
 I sent back to Catumbella for help at once. The following day 
 we all rested, nursing Lane. Mr. Munnoch returned with him to 
 Benguella, and my wife and I pushed on to Bailundu to do our 
 utmost to procure carriers. 
 
 Travelling through the passes leading to Chisanje we had to 
 walk most of the way. In clambering over huge boulders the 
 horse fell once or twice and got badly cut, and the donkey 
 was very obstinate. At last late one afternoon we struggled into 
 our camping place, my wife having fainted twice from the heat 
 and exertion. Next day we were able to ride most of the way. 
 
 The few men we had were only engaged to go as far as the 
 Chivula country, which we safely reached on the 6th of July, 
 after eleven days' journey from the coast. Here we remained 
 for a few days, while I sent my lad Dick on to King Ekwikwi's 
 war camp to ask him for carriers to take us to Bailundu. He 
 sent nineteen, so my wife was able to enjoy the luxury of riding in 
 
1889.] African Calculation. 9 
 
 a tipoia, which is the Portuguese name for a canvas hammock 
 hung upon a long pahii pole, and carried on the shoulders of two 
 men. 
 
 Three days' travelling brought us to Ekwikwi's camp, where the 
 king welcomed us, providing a large grass hut for our accommo- 
 dation. It was with very great difficulty I got permission to 
 go on to Bailundu to collect carriers in his villages, as he said 
 all his people were preparing to join him in his " war " ; but 
 he allowed me to collect men, if I could, in the Chivanda 
 country and along the west bank of the Keve river. 
 
 My wife had fever for a few days in this camp, and I was 
 thankful when I was able to procure a further relay of men 
 to take her on to the American Mission station in Bailundu. 
 
 From August the 4th I was alone in the Chivanda country, 
 where for several weeks I toiled about from village to village 
 on my poor horse, sometimes covering 60 miles a day, collecting 
 or trying to collect carriers. One night would find me lying 
 curled up by a fire in a corner of a native hut, with seven or 
 eight long black fellows stretched out all around me, and the 
 next night perhaps making the most of some deserted camp 
 in the bush. At last, little by little, hope began to rise ; but 
 even when promises were given, second and third visits had to 
 be made. Then came the final assurance, " Yes ; let me see, 
 to-day my wife has gone to the field barn for corn " (and down 
 goes the little finger of the left hand, artfully kept in its place 
 by the forefinger and thumb of the right) ; " to-morrow she 
 will soak and hull it" (the second finger is pulled down); "on 
 the third day she will pound it into meal ; on the fourth day 
 she will dry it and put it into a skin bag — why, on the fifth 
 day I will be ready." "And what about your two brothers 
 you promised to bring with you ? " " Oh, they have gone to 
 a spirit dance at our mother's \illage." This one definite promise, 
 however, gives me something to work upon. I start off several 
 paid agents to scour the country and call at all the villages 
 visited by me with the final announcement : " After four days 
 Monare will form a camp at the meeting of the three paths by 
 the itvo rivers in the Ohumbe district of Chivanda." I post 
 off for a good-bye visit to my wife in Bailundu, and am ready 
 waiting at the appointed place on the fifth day. 
 
 Li 
 
lO Biy and Garenganze. [Aug. 1889. 
 
 The delay of a few more days was still required, with a little 
 humouring of the first batch or two of men who had joined 
 me. One day I bought them a goat, another day we went 
 off and fired a stretch of reeds b)' the river, and shot some 
 water-bucks as they escaped ; and so I kept the men happy until 
 all who were coming with us had joined the camp. Then came a 
 talk over the recognised rules and bye-laws of " the road." A 
 crier was appointed to call out each evening instructions as to the 
 next day's march, and a start was made in regular order for the 
 coast. 
 
 EKWIKWI, 
 KING OF BAILUNDU. 
 
CHAPTER III. 
 
 l^eabM Sborvohjs in connection toitft ti)E ^econK ^artD. 
 
 (June to October, i88g.) 
 
 1MUST now turn to the movements of the second party, made 
 up of the following : 
 
 Dr. Walter Fisher, m.r.c.s., l.r.c.p., London; 
 
 Mr. R. B. Gall, from Highgate, an experienced gardener ; 
 
 Mr. Thos. Morris, of Walthamstow, London, and his wife ; 
 besides attending to his duties as a city merchant, Mr. 
 Morris had carried on for some years a successful gospel 
 work in Walthamstow, where many can still testify to the 
 fact that the Lord was pleased to use him to their conver- 
 sion ; 
 
 Mr. R. J. Johnston, commended from the north of Ireland, 
 where he had been labouring as an evangelist, and was 
 beloved by many; 
 
 Mr. H. B. Thompson, also from the north of Ireland, where 
 he had been sub-editor of a newspaper. 
 
 Miss Gilchrist, of Hamilton, and Miss Davies, of Bristol, 
 completed the party. 
 
 They left London June 22nd, 1889, and their progress is 
 described in the following extracts from Mr. R. J. Johnston's 
 journal : 
 
 June 26th, 1889. Near Lisbon. — We got on board the Gibraltar 
 about seven on Saturday morning, and left the docks about eight. 
 There was a good number of Christians at the place to see our ship 
 steam out. Amidst many sobs they were able to sing the first verse 
 of " God be with you till we meet again," but could get no further. 
 There they stood until we were out of sight, waving hats and hand- 
 kerchiefs. When we got away we turned our attention to what we 
 
12 Bike and Garenganze. [June, 
 
 could see down the Thames, but our hearts were with the friends we 
 had left behind. Dear Mr. Morris, who had left his four young 
 children behind him, said to me, " I thought my heart would have 
 gone in two when I was parting with the children, but it 's for His 
 sake and the gospel's." The day was splendid, and we enjoyed it, 
 passing the cliffs of Dover with their chalk rocks ; and the beautiful 
 spray from every wave was something grand. 
 
 We went to bed about ten o'clock, after singing a few hymns together 
 on deck ; but in the morning, when I awoke after a good night's sleep, 
 the ship was rocking like a cork on the waves, and I found the mighty 
 roll of the Atlantic was not like the smooth waters of the Thames. 
 
 Every morning we have a Bible-reading on deck, and are reading 
 in Joshua and Mark. We were noticing how many men of God in 
 the Scriptures are said to have wept, and you know the verse which 
 says, " He that goeth forth and weepeth, bearing precious seed, shall 
 doubtless come again with rejoicing, bringing his sheaves with him." 
 God keeps a bottle for the tears. How very few of mine go into it ! 
 
 I was reading this morning Psalm Ivii. The Psalmist cried unto 
 God, who, he said, performed all things for him. Oh, to let Him 
 perform all things for us ! He would be sure to do the right. All 
 our party are pretty well to-day, although the sea is very heavy, and 
 we are getting a tremendous rolling, but it's grand, now that our 
 sickness is over. We are persuaded that the living God holds the 
 water — all the sea — in the hollow of His hand. What a powerful 
 hand that must be ! We are sure to be in it now, as we are on the 
 water, which is in His hand. We hope to land in Lisbon to-morrow 
 morning, and will be there for more than a week ; but this time won't 
 be lost, as we shall be able to study the Portuguese language. 
 
 Jtcly 11///. Near St. Vincent. — After nine days' stay at Lisbon we 
 sailed off on Saturday, 6th July, on board the Ambaca, a fine new 
 steamer on her first voyage. 
 
 July I'jth. — Yesterday evening we sighted the coast of Africa, and 
 anchored off Kabinda about 4 p.m. ... I cannot describe the feeling 
 I had when first I saw the shore of the dark Continent. I was glad at 
 first, as it was the place on my heart, and then when I thought of its 
 multitudes of poor, dark, benighted souls, could not keep from weeping. 
 I could not but feel sad at the thought of the multitude of souls that 
 people this vast country without the knowledge of God or of His 
 Son. And the thought came up in my mind, When will the people of 
 God at home be stirred up to their responsibility, and acknowledge, 
 as Paul did in Romans i. 14, "I am a debtor." 
 
 July 3 1 J-/.— We reached Loanda about 8 p.m. It is the most 
 important place on this part of the West Coast of Africa. At Loanda 
 we first set foot on African soil. 
 
1889.] ^ Sorrozvful Landing. 13 
 
 DEATH OF MR. JOHNSTON. 
 
 At Loanda our dear brother seemed to have caught a chill. 
 He complained that evening to the ship's doctor, who at once 
 pronounced his case serious, and gave him every care and atten- 
 tion. He was carefully watched over by the members of the 
 party, who sat with him by turn. In spite of all that could be 
 done he gradually sank, and fell asleep in Jesus shortly after the 
 Afubaca cast anchor at Benguella, on A\'ednesday, the 7th of 
 August. His testimony during his illness was full of confidence 
 in the Lord, even as it had previously been clear and decided to 
 those around him on the vessel who could understand English. 
 A coffin was ordered from the shore, and on Thursday the body 
 was buried by his sorrowing companions in the cemetery at 
 Benguella. He had been the first to catch sight of the African 
 coast, and joyfully looked forward to service in the gospel in that 
 land. But though his hope in this respect was not fulfilled, we 
 
 may say u Think not in vain his life was given ; 
 
 No sacrifice for Christ is vain ! 
 A savour sweet it rose to heaven ; 
 His seeming loss — eternal gain !" 
 
 He is "with Christ," and the mortal body will be raised at 
 His coming, with many other servants of Christ whose lives have 
 been given in that land for the gospel's sake. 
 
 The meeting at Benguella of the members of the first and 
 second parties was thus a very solemn one ; but there was 
 much to be done to prepare for the inland journey, the quantity 
 of baggage being considerable. 
 
 Through the uniting of the two parties the number at Benguella 
 now awaiting my return from the interior with carriers was 
 increased to eleven. They all succeeded in accommodating 
 themselves in the small three-roomed house that we had been 
 able to hire from the Portuguese two months before. Being 
 old, it was in rather a tumble-down condition ; in many places 
 the tiles were broken, and some had fallen off. The dry season, 
 too, was just over, and one or two showers of rain would soon 
 have thrown all into confusion, as both health and goods would 
 have suffered. On the whole, however, they had enjoyed fairly 
 good health, and had spent many happy days in this little mud 
 cottage, hard by the Roman Catholic chapel. 
 
14 Bihe and Garenganse. Sept.] 
 
 I reached Benguella safely about the ist of September with 
 1 80 men. At first sight this seems to be a large supply of 
 carriers, but if we consider the number of Europeans for whom 
 everything needful for a stay in the interior had to be taken, 
 it will be evident that the caravan was far too limited, especially 
 as tipoia bearers had to be deducted. On the men's shoulders 
 all needful supplies had to be borne, including bulky cloth 
 currency, tents and bedding for cold nights on the hills, cooking 
 utensils, supplies of food to take us over long stretches of barren 
 country where no provisions could be bought, changes of clothing, 
 tools for building houses or rather huts, medicine, &c., &c. 
 Some of the party so cut down their loads that they only 
 asked for three or four carriers, thus giving up part of their 
 share to the ladies. The goods for Messrs. Swan and Faulknor, 
 then alone in the Garenganze, claimed a first place in our 
 arrangements, and though Mr. Crawford had gone inland with 
 an American missionary caravan to Bailundu, where my wife 
 also was, he had not taken any boxes or supplies with him. All 
 at Benguella, however, were anxious to get away from the coast, 
 as the unhealthy season was coming on, so with common consent 
 a start was made. 
 
 The three sisters were to travel in tipoias, and the brethren 
 were to walk and ride by turns, as they were able, but the riding 
 animals we had at our disposal were somewhat disappointing. 
 Of two riding oxen one seemed too unmanageable for some 
 to mount, and the other, which was too weak to carry any 
 one, soon died of some dire disease ; my poor horse, re- 
 duced to a mere walking skeleton by having been ridden 
 so much in the dry season, was of little service. Of the twelve 
 pack mules which I ordered at the island of Santiago (near St. 
 Vincent) only two were forthcoming. These were brought on 
 by the second party, but one of them died on the voyage, 
 and the surviving one was rather free in the use of her heels. 
 Gradually she was broken in, and became of more use towards 
 the end of the journey ; but at first she caused more labour than 
 rest, and succeeded at times in throwing her rider. I made the 
 following notes by the way : 
 
 Near Chisanje, Sept. ()th, 1889. — All have got thus far, and on 
 the whole in fair condition. Two of the brethren were rather knocked 
 
1889.] Sorroiv tipoii Sorrow. 15 
 
 up. Mr. and Mrs. Morris stand the travelling well, and the sisters 
 quite eclipse us all in activity. The long stay of the first party at the 
 coast was not favourable for them, and their ignorance of either 
 Portuguese or Umbundu was a great hindrance. Although our 
 carriers come from four different countries they have been most 
 orderly and quiet. Amongst ourselves there is not the slightest 
 jarring, which is an unspeakable mercy. There will be abundant 
 room for many more helpers, and I would gladly welcome them, but 
 it is a serious matter to counsel such. They ought to be men of 
 positive qualities, who have learned to overcome difficulties at home ; 
 and it would be well to prove their capability of accjuiring languages 
 by mastering Portuguese. Men are needed of whose fitness there 
 is no question. 
 
 Bailundu, Sept. 22nd. — We crossed the Keve river and got into 
 the Bailundu country yesterday, and when all were in camp, close 
 by one of the villages occupied by the carriers, Dr. Fisher and I 
 rode on to Chilume, where we found my dear wife in good health 
 and spirits. We join the others on the 24th, when arrangements 
 will be made for continuing our journey to Bihd. 
 
 DEATH OF MESSRS. MORRIS AND GALL. 
 
 On reaching the Utalama camp from Chilume Miss Uavies 
 and Miss Gilchrist were both down with slight attacks of fever, 
 and our carriers, finding that we were not prepared to continue 
 the journey on the day appointed, became demoraUsed. Indeed 
 many of them refused to go to Bihe, and fresh men had to be 
 obtained to take their places. At last, after three weeks' waiting, 
 we were just on the point of completing arrangements for a start, 
 when our dear brother Morris was suddenly taken ill. He had 
 been along the banks of the Keve river the day before with Mr. 
 Lane, hoping to get a goose or wild duck for supper, and, after 
 wading through several lagoons, returned much exhausted from 
 the heat of the sun, which had been intense. Upon the first 
 symptoms of fever Dr. W. Fisher gave him the usual medicinal 
 treatment, which seemed to check the disease, and he got up 
 from his bed, and was preparing for the journey to Bihe. Just 
 then the shed used as his kitchen took fire, and in a short time 
 his tent was riddled with holes by the shower of sparks from 
 the flames, and but for the efforts of all present the whole camp 
 would have been destroyed. The excitement and exertion proved 
 too much for Mr. Morris in his weak state, and he had a relapse, 
 
1 6 BiJic and Garengmize. [Oct. 1889. 
 
 and gradually grew weaker. On the day after the fire Mr. Gall, 
 who had strained himself to the utmost to save the camp, com- 
 plained of headache, and Dr. Walter Fisher had him carried into 
 his own tent. For several days he was delirious, and then sank 
 rapidly. Mr. G. Fisher came over from the American station at 
 Chilume on the Thursday to help to nurse the sick. Two days 
 later, Saturday, October 19th, after barely a fortnight's illness, 
 Mr. Morris passed away, and Mr. Gall, after a still shorter ill- 
 ness, died a few hours later. 
 
 The American missionaries at Chilume kindly made two 
 coffins, and early on Monday morning a procession was formed, 
 and the remains of our two brethren were carried to their last 
 resting-place on the shoulders of dark-skinned Africans, for 
 whose sake the)' had left home and friends. We read together 
 in the Umbundu from John xii. : " Except a corn of wheat fall 
 into the ground and die, it abideth alone. . . . He that hateth 
 his life in this world shall keep it unto life eternal. ... If any 
 man serve Me, let him follow Me, and where I am there shall 
 also My servant be." Thus we sought to direct the minds of all 
 in the large, solemn crowd of natives who stood around the open 
 grave to the One who died, and was buried, and rose again. 
 
 RETURN OF MRS. iMORRIS, MISS DAVIES, AND MR. e;. FISHER. 
 
 Mrs. Morris, the broken-hearted widow, had ere this been 
 taken to Chilume, where kind hearts sought to minister comfort 
 in her sorrow. She decided to return to her four fatherless 
 children in England, taking Miss Davies with her. Mr. G. Fisher 
 also decided to accompany them home. 
 
 And now, with staggering, bewildered steps, we had to turn 
 to the duties of the day and gather our scattered caravan. 
 Messrs. Thompson and Lane, Miss Gilchrist and my wife, 
 started with me for Bihe, while Messrs. Walter Fisher and 
 A. Munnoch remained at Utalama waiting for carriers, in order 
 to return with them to Benguella. 
 
CHAPTER IV. 
 
 ^tribal at 33i!i£.— iBtfficultics tuiti) ti)c Bing anti tuitl) 
 tijc povtugUESf. 
 
 (OcTOiiEK, i8Sy, T(i November, 1890.) 
 
 IN moving to the large district of Bihe, it became important 
 to decide where it would be advisable for us to direct our 
 steps, for it seemed a necessity to establish a depot for the various 
 articles required by those already labouring in the far interior, 
 and by others who might follow. Hitherto I had made use of 
 Senhor Porto's village at Belmonte, where I had a small house 
 placed at my disposal, while Messrs. Swan and Faulknor had 
 availed themselves of the recently established American mission 
 station at Kamondongo. It was impossible, however, to think 
 of imposing our large party upon our American brethren. This 
 would have been yet more inconsiderate because we should have 
 been under the necessity of collecting carriers from the same 
 district, and thus should have added to their and our own diffi- 
 culties in the matter of transport, seeing that carriers were very 
 scarce. Similar considerations made it unadvisable for us to 
 camp near to Senhor Porto's village, so I sent a message to him 
 as Capitao Mor of the district under the Portuguese government, 
 asking his consent to our going to Kwanjulula. In reply, Senhor 
 Porto gave us permission, but added that he feared we might 
 find the natives of that district suspicious and troublesome. 
 
 To Kwanjulula accordingly we directed our steps, and a few 
 days' journey from Bailundu brought us there in safety. We 
 pitched our camp on an old village site, marked by a lovely 
 patch of greensward, and surrounded by a thick forest. A 
 group of native villages lay in a semicircle to the south, and 
 three miles to the east was the capital of the chief Chinguangua, 
 of Utulumba, whose permission we found it was necessary to 
 
BiJie and Garenomirje. 
 
 [Dec. 
 
 obtain, as well as that of the chief of Bihe, before beginning to 
 build. After some trying delays their consent was given. 
 
 Meanwhile, a Bihe " headman " with a company of porters 
 had been sent down to Eailundu, to take Mrs. Morris and party 
 to the coast, and a mulatto trader named Chifeka was sent on 
 to the Garenganze to succour our two brethren, Swan and Faulk- 
 nor, with as many loads as he was able to provide carriers for. 
 
 HOUSE BUILDING AT KWANJULULA. 
 
 All our energies were now devoted to house or hut building, 
 and the men of a neighbouring village came over and built us a 
 strong storehouse, without seeking any pay in return, by way of 
 showing their good feeling towards us. The structures we put 
 up in Africa can hardly be called houses, being really nothing 
 more than improved native huts. The principle of construction 
 
 Mk. Akxut's Hoi sk at Kwanji i.i la, Mini''. 
 
 is simplicity itself. A certain number of stout poles are cut in 
 the forest, leaving a natural fork at the end, which is intended to 
 support a horizontal pole, forming the roof-plate. The latter is 
 well secured with wooden pins, and braced horizontally so as to 
 agree exactly with the ground plan of the house. The proper 
 spaces are then marked off for windows and doors, more upright 
 poles are sunk into the ground and nailed to the plate, wattle 
 sticks are tied on crosswise a few inches apart, both inside and 
 out, and the whole is plastered with common clay mortar. As 
 
1889.] Expulsion Threatened. 19 
 
 the clay dries and cracks, a second and even a third coat of mud 
 is required to render the wall smooth and solid. 
 
 During this period Messrs. Thompson and Lane suffered a 
 good deal from fever. Mr. Crawford, who had gone on ahead 
 of us to Bihe joined us at Kwanjulula, and our hope was that 
 after Dr. W. Fisher's return we should be able to leave him with 
 the ladies at Kwanjulula, and push on to the Garenganze to 
 the relief of Messrs. Swan and Faulknor. 
 
 Towards the end of December, Dr. Fisher and Mr. Munnoch 
 arrived from the coast with the long-looked-for mules, which 
 had come at last, and which they had succeeded in lading 
 chiefly with salt, one of the valuable commodities of Africa. 
 
 A NATIVE ARMY SENT TO DRIVE US BACK. 
 
 A dark cloud now arose on the political horizon of Bihe. The 
 king, Chindunduma, declared himself suspicious of so many 
 white people coming to his country, and blamed Senhor Porto 
 for inviting the " Englese " to Bihe. He also sent a letter to 
 Kwanjulula commanding us to withdraw forthwith. This it was 
 impossible for us to do without throwing away all we had with 
 us, and, what was more serious still, leaving Swan and Faulknor 
 unprovided for in Garenganze, for the king would not allow us 
 to go toward the interior in our flight. We spread the letter 
 before the Lord, and committed ourselves to His protection and 
 disposal. Next morning Senhor Porto arrived at our camp in a 
 very excited state, saying that an "army" was coming to plunder 
 us and drive us out of Bihe, and with undoubted kindness he 
 had come over to do what he could to prevent bloodshed. In a 
 short time the "army" came, consisting of a company of the 
 king's " young men " in charge of three captains, two of whom I 
 knew well — Kaindo and Ukuesela. The former, when in charge 
 of a trading caravan from the interior, was attacked and plun- 
 dered by a section of the Lovale tribe, and I found him detained 
 as a prisoner in the village of the chief, who had robbed him of 
 everything. I was able at that time to help him with a small 
 gift of cloth, so that he obtained his release and returned to 
 Bihe, professing himself under life-long obligations to me. 
 
 I told Senhor Porto that we had nothing to fear, and going 
 forward I greeted Kaindo, who replied with a downcast look, 
 
20 Bihe and Garenganze. [April, 
 
 and after consulting his companions said, with all the authority 
 he was able to command, " We have been sent by the king 
 to enforce his letter ordering you all to leave Bihe at once." 
 I replied, " The king has sent the wrong men. Had he intended 
 doing us any harm he would have sent strangers, and not friends. 
 The king has only sent you to talk over the matter with us. 
 Kaindo," I added, " you are responsible for the conduct of 
 the warriors you have brought with you. You had better 
 order them to sit down together there (pointing to a corner 
 in our yard), and I will have some food brought for them while 
 we talk matters over." Kaindo did what he was told, and three 
 goats were handed over to the " young men," while I prepared 
 some food hastily for the three captains in a hut close by, and, 
 with the Gospel of John in my hand, replied to the king's letter. 
 
 Those African braves — like a wild beast missing the prey in 
 his first spring — had no longer any heart for plundering our 
 camp, as their first intention clearly had been. Kaindo pleaded 
 with his fellows against doing so, saying that he was sure the 
 king had had his ears filled with lies against us. A com- 
 promise was at last come to. I gave them a handsome present 
 of trade calico for the king, and presented each of the warrior 
 band with four yards of check shirting. Then, with tents and 
 such like improvised accommodation, we made them all comfort- 
 able for the night, and next morning they departed in good order 
 without having robbed us of even the value of a pin. 
 
 As soon as the king's young men had taken their leave a 
 number of smaller chiefs in our immediate neighbourhood took 
 the opportunity of making a demonstration in our favour. No 
 less than five appeared with their followers, armed to the teeth, 
 dancing and shouting, and declaring that the king of Bihe 
 had openly insulted them all by sending his warriors into 
 their province, &c. Finally a big palaver was held, and two 
 chiefs were appointed by the others to go to the capital to 
 contradict the lies spoken against their white men. 
 
 The day after Kaindo had returned to the king a messenger 
 came to our camp calling me to the capital. I, with my wife 
 and Dr. Fisher, called on Senhor Porto, who kindly accom- 
 panied us to the king's town, where we were received with 
 "white chalk," meaning acquittal, and not with "red chalk," 
 
1890.] Portuguese Suspicions. 21 
 
 which would have meant guilt. After quite a formal palaver 
 the king presented us with an ox for food as a token of good 
 feeling, giving Messrs. Thompson, Lane, Crawford, and myself 
 an open road to the Garenganze, and permission to collect 
 carriers for the journey. This trouble seemed to be thus well 
 got over, and we went on with our preparations for the journey to 
 the interior when rumours of fresh political disturbances reached 
 us. 
 
 DIFFICULTIES WITH THE PORTUGUESE. 
 
 About this time a Portuguese expedition under Captain 
 Couceiro arrived in Bihe, bound for the Okovango river. The 
 King of Bihe refused to give Captain Couceiro and the 150 
 soldiers who accompanied him permission to pass through his 
 country, declaring that an understanding existed between him 
 and the Portuguese Government to the effect that no black 
 soldiers were ever to be quartered in Bihe, and that he only 
 welcmned white strangers to his country. Senhor Porto did 
 his utmost to allay his fears, but without avail ; and seeing 
 nothing but trouble before himself and his countrymen he 
 settled up his affairs, spread thirteen kegs of gunpowder on 
 the floor of his house, and, opening one keg and lying at full 
 length on the other twelve, he struck a match and deliberately 
 ignited the powder. The explosion threw him a great height 
 into the air, through the roof of his house. Dr. AValter Fisher 
 was at once sent for, but the poor old man died after twenty-four 
 hours. By this time Chindunduma was collecting his forces 
 and threatening the Portuguese encampment. Captain Couceiro 
 withdrew, his camp was ransacked b)' Chindunduma, and the 
 Portuguese settlements of Belmonte and Boavista were plundered 
 and destroyed. 
 
 A SUMMONS TO BENGUELLA. 
 
 It can be easily understood that the Portuguese became sus- 
 picious of u.s, seeing we were " English missionaries," and had 
 been allowed to remain safely in Bihe while their own subjects 
 had been driven from the country. When we remember that at 
 this particular time they were in open conflict with the British 
 South Africa Company touching their East African territory, 
 we must be thankful for the thoroughness with which they ulti- 
 mately enquired into the matter, and for the justice shown to us. 
 I received an ofificial letter from the Captain General of Bihe and 
 
22 Bihe and Garenganze. [Nov. 
 
 Bailundu, advising us to withdraw from Bihe, and after a little 
 while a second letter came, more strongly worded, saying that 
 if we remained in Bihe we did so at our own peril. Later still 
 a third official letter was sent, in which this Captain General 
 clearly stated that the Portuguese officials at the coast were in 
 possession of evidence sufficient to convict me of being in league 
 with Chindunduma, the rebel chief of Bihe. 
 
 By this time Messrs. Thomson, Lane, and Crawford had gone 
 into camp at Kalusia, and several seknlos, or headmen, were out 
 collecting carriers to accompany them to Garenganze. AVe felt 
 the parting with our three brethren much, yet longed to see them 
 finally off to the relief of Messrs. Swan and Faulknor, and were 
 thankful that they had learned sufficient of the Umbundu language 
 to enable them to collect and manage the carriers en route. 
 
 Dr. Walter Fisher remained in charge of our mud and wattle 
 compound at Kwanjulula while I returned in company with Mr. 
 Munnoch to Benguella. At Bailundu I was told by the American 
 missionaries that a warrant was out for my arrest. It was so 
 ordered that the very day I reached Benguella the Governor- 
 General of Angola arrived there from Loanda to talk over Bihe 
 matters with the Governor of Benguella, and both gladly listened 
 to my story, and acquitted me of all the charges brought against 
 me. I was asked to protect the children of Senhor Porto and 
 other Portuguese subjects still in Bihe, and was informed that 
 a well-armed force had left Mossamedes to chastise the king of 
 Bihe, and that the officer in charge — Captain Paiva — was com- 
 missioned to make full enquiries into the cause of the revolt. 
 
 I got back to Bihe as quickly as possible, leaving Mr. Munnoch 
 in Bailundu, and found all well, though anxious for my return, 
 as they had been disturbed during my absence with rumours of 
 war and of the coming of the force under Captain Paiva. 
 
 In the midst of all this outward confusion and anxiety we had 
 the joy of baptising a young woman, whose heart we had reason 
 to believe the Lord had changed, and also of receiving cheering 
 reports from our three brethren on their inland journey. 
 
 ARRIVAL OF THE PORTUGUESE AND BOER FORCE AT BIHK. 
 
 The 4th of November brought Captain Paiva with his army, 
 composed chiefly of Transvaal Boers, from the colony established 
 
1890.] l^^r Ended. 23 
 
 near Mossamedes. He attacked the town of Chindunduma, who 
 made a very feeble resistance, and soon took to flight. Many of 
 the natives were shot down by the mounted Boers, and so long 
 as the chief was at large Captain Paiva scattered fire and sword 
 throughout the country. 
 
 On November 6th Mr. Sanders, of Kamondongo, succeeded 
 in procuring a few days' truce by forwarding to the Portuguese 
 camp a promise from several chiefs that Chindunduma would be 
 delivered up to the Portuguese. They failed, however, in per- 
 suading the fugitive king to deliver himself up. The days of 
 truce expired, and the burning of villages and shooting of the 
 flying people began again. I made an imploring appeal to the 
 chiefs over the northern district of Bihe to combine in some way 
 to save their country, for every moment was of value. In twelve 
 hours' time over twenty chiefs had collected in our yard at Kwan- 
 julula to discuss the matter. I wrote to Captain Paiva their 
 request for an eight days' truce, accompanied with their promise 
 to do their utmost to capture and deliver up Chindunduma. 
 The captain in his reply thanked me for anything we were able 
 to do to prevent further bloodshed, and promised the assembled 
 chiefs nine days' truce. In six days the native force, twelve 
 hundred strong, returned with the runaway king. Peace was at 
 once declared, and arrangements made for the permanent occu- 
 pation of Bihe by a Portuguese military force. 
 
 \Vhen the king's town was taken Captain Paiva seized his 
 'papers. These Ovimbundu chiefs, being unable to write, employ 
 as a rule some Portuguese mulatto as secretary. In his official 
 report to the Portuguese Cxovernment, a copy of which I saw 
 at Loanda, Captain Paiva had copied verbatim several letters that 
 he found written by me to Chindunduma, in order to show how 
 harmless they were. One referred to a present of cloth that 
 he had asked of me, and another was a refusal to send him 
 a present of gunpowder. At the same time, sufficient evidence 
 was found to incriminate a Portuguese trader and rum distiller, 
 who, it seems, had been sending presents of rum to the king 
 of Bihe ; and it was thus evident that it was not we but he who 
 had sought to stop the Portuguese advance towards the interior, 
 evidently fearing lest his own business at the coast should suffer if 
 fresh centres and channels of trade were opened up. 
 
CHAPTER V. 
 
 JProm 33ii)E to Nana Bantiuntiu. 
 
 (August to Octoher, 1890.) 
 
 IT is not easy to connect together events occurring during 
 the course of three or four years at places so distant from 
 one another as Bihe and Garenganze. In a previous volume 
 my journey from Benguella to Garenganze was very briefly 
 traced, and also the return journey to England, after Messrs. 
 Swan and Faulknor had relieved my lonely stay in Msidi's 
 kingdom from February, 1886, to February, 1888. In their 
 turn these two brethren were experiencing for even a longer 
 period the trial of lack of any communication with Christian 
 friends or with the civilized world, and we were most desirous 
 that they too should have the joy of welcoming fellow-labourers 
 with long-expected letters and much-needed supplies. During 
 the lull at Bihe, between the dilTticulty with the king and the 
 subsequent one with the Portuguese, Messrs. Thompson, Lane, 
 and Crawford had made a start for (iarenganze, as already 
 mentioned, after many delays in obtaining a sufficient number 
 of carriers. Our small party of five Europeans remained at 
 Kwanjulula in order to try and solve the serious perplexities 
 connected with the transport of goods from the coast to the 
 far interior. Wc also felt the need of making known the 
 gospel to those natives in our part of the large district of 
 Bihe who were out of the reach of the American missionaries. 
 It was likewise in our thoughts to receive and help on their 
 way any fresh workers from our own land. 
 
 We must now, however, drop any mention of Bihe, and follow 
 the steps of the three brethren who had left us for (iarenganze. 
 Previous accounts of this journey have been rather bare, and 
 the fuller description that follows, chiefly from the pen of 
 
Aug. 1890.] A Start for Garenganse. 25 
 
 Mr. Daniel Crawford, will give in many respects a better idea 
 of it. 
 
 From Chisamba, the farthest outpost of the American mis- 
 sionaries, Mr. Crawford writes, referring first, in figurative 
 language, to the farewell at Kwanjulula and the extortionate 
 demands of the natives : 
 
 August 2iid, 1890.— To tell you of all the Lord's goodness to us 
 since we parted from you is quite beyond my power. It was a 
 real parting on the shore, as much so as Paul's Ephesian one ; only 
 our shore was that of the ocean of His love, and we launched out 
 to find the expanse boundless and non-traversable. Perhaps the 
 exterior view of our last eight weeks' life may have looked like that 
 of men overboard combating with sharks ; but, be that as it may, 
 my soul doth boast of a clear sky overhead and songs of joy. 
 
 Before you left, the news doubtless reached you of our having 
 re-crossed the Kuito, which we did only to find a long detention 
 in camp awaiting us ; and when at length it became apparent that 
 Saviye's district had been completely drained of men we moved 
 across here to Filisiberto's old camp, behind Mr. Carrie's, in the 
 hope that the Kapoko and Chisamba districts would supply the 
 remaining number of carriers. It was not long before your old 
 friend, the present chief of Kapoko, swooped down upon us for a 
 contribution to his revenue. " Tribute again ? " Oh, no ! it wasn't 
 that, only a recognition that his child Sesoka was going off on a 
 long journey with a crowd of "his children." Two visits to the 
 old man somewhat lessened his demand, and the conclusion of 
 the whole matter was a gift of 16 yds. white cloth, 18 yds. blue, 
 and 12 handkerchiefs. 
 
 CROSSING THE KWANZA. 
 
 August the i6th will ever remain a memorable day among my 
 African dates. We crossed the Kwanza .' An onibala rests upon 
 the top of the rather steep slope which leads down to the sandy 
 beach crowded with canoes, and this village is so much the key to 
 the crossing that you must enter by its front gate, pass through 
 the village, and make your exit at the back ere the shore can be 
 reached. We did not stand long ere there filed down to the beach 
 a huge trading caravan, and this with ours made a fine babel of 
 noise in the bidding for canoes. Brethren Lane and Thompson 
 crossed over to receive the loads while I remained behind to direct 
 the crossing. While so doing the old chief came down, and we 
 sat together for over an hour. Poor old man, so withered and frail, 
 with one foot almost in his grave ! He questioned me about our 
 
 c 
 
26 Bihc and Garaiganzc. [Aug. 
 
 going to the Garenganze in quite a wondering way, and of course 
 could scarcely take in the fact that we were not traders. His kind 
 face, if nothing else, made one tell him with tenderness of God's 
 wondrous purposes of love towards this poor world. He was 
 interested, I can truly say that ; but you could see that to him, 
 with his bunch of charms round his neck, it was all so bewilderingly 
 new ! Ah ! drop with me a tear for the poor old men and women 
 of Africa who hug their fetishes, and whose hearts are the habitations 
 of blackest darkness. 
 
 The canoes at this part of the Kwanza vary in size from lo to 
 12 feet. Of course, no thought of clinker build ever entered into 
 their primitive notions of boat building. The tall tree growing near 
 by is felled, barked, and laboriously dug out until it assumes shape, 
 a simple and solitary paddle being all that is used as a means of 
 propulsion. But to see the men cross four at a time in their canoes 
 is perhaps the most ticklish affair one could wish to see. Often 
 not even a head pops up, all the occupants lying flat on their faces 
 in the bottom of the canoe for very dread. 
 
 August 17th. — Since crossing the Kwanza we have been among 
 the Valoivibe tribe, which talks a dialect of its own, and in very 
 many other respects is different from the Ovimbundu. Alas ! there 
 is a painful scantiness of clothing — tall, full-grown men wearing only 
 a skin or two around their waist, the women, I regret to say, having 
 the same meagre covering. It is evident, however, that there is 
 a great deal of rivalry amongst themselves in the fantastic head- 
 dresses which they wear. These, without doubt, far surpass the 
 same article as seen in Bihe ; and often, from a native standard, 
 you would even call them pretty. Our bold Bihdans have a very 
 lordly and patronising way of talking about these Valoimbe people, 
 and are fond of disparaging everything they have. The meal, they 
 say, is miserable, and thereupon proceed to extol their own milk- 
 white production at home. But while the corn-meal complaint is 
 true, there is far more real and industrious talent at work here 
 than in Bihe. Fancy these people with simple native looms weaving 
 a rough but withal stout-textured cloth, which has moreover a most 
 orderly pattern in three colours, and would grace any table at 
 home. Then there are a multitude of beautiful little nick-nacks, 
 earrings, &c., which, if journeying homeward instead of inland, 
 one would be tempted to buy. At this place we rested two days, 
 meal buying. On paying the old chief a visit with our tribute of 
 16 yards of cloth, he chided us for not bringing guns and powder, 
 but we deemed it our duty to tell him we were messengers of peace, 
 yea, with our stammering tongue to tell him of the love of God and 
 His niessage of peace, 
 
iSgo.] A Chief Stops tJte Way, 27 
 
 Mr. Lane's words here supply a break in Mr. Crawford's diary 
 of the journey : 
 
 August \Wi. — Sandombe. The chief here gave us an ox as a 
 present, and we gave him cloth in return. When told the object 
 of our coming to this country, he urged us to stay with him, and 
 he would feed us well with oxen, etc. 
 
 19//?. — The first thing I was told this morning was that two of my 
 men had fled during the night, and one of Br. Crawford's. Only 
 yesterday we gave the men each four yards of cloth, to ration 
 them for about twelve or thirteen days. I am glad to say that 
 the three loads were immediately taken by other men. The ox was 
 cut up and distributed amongst our men this morning. Their greed 
 manifested itself, and some of the headmen were compelled to take 
 sticks to keep back the men, who, like dogs, were ready to pounce 
 upon the beast and tear it to pieces. This evening the chief returned 
 our present of twenty-four yards of cloth, although he had originally 
 told us he did not wish a large one, and he now asked for a 
 blanket and a coat in addition. We sent him the coat, but he 
 would not accept it without the blanket ; so we agreed to see him 
 in the morning. 
 
 10th. — Our carriers knowing there was a dispute with the chief were 
 afraid to start, so we went up with our headmen, who feared to 
 go alone. After waiting some time the chief appeared. Sitting 
 all around us were his headmen, who had come to hear the case. Mr. 
 Crawford explained that we could not give the blanket. Powder 
 was again demanded. This was refused. Then another sixteen 
 yards of cloth was asked for. We could ill afford this, but they 
 would take no excuse. We sat for fully an hour discussing this 
 matter ; but they said their word was one, and if they slept to-night, 
 to-morrow, and the next night, they would rise with the same word. 
 Seeing we should be kept some time, and that probably our carriers 
 would desert, we thought it better to give in and get away. Our men 
 were simply trembling at Br. Crawford's remarks. 
 
 2ist.—Kasombo. Our men seem to find great difficulty in 
 procuring meal. Poor fellows, they are contented with such miser- 
 able fare that I feel much for them when they are unable to buy meal. 
 They say there is food here, and want to stay over to-morrow, in 
 order to fill their bags, as when we leave the Valoimbe we travel 
 for ten or twelve days through an unpeopled region and enter 
 the Chibokwe country. The blessed Lord is graciously supplyincr our 
 needs daily ; His mercies are new every morning ; great is His 
 faithfulness. 
 
 227id. — I visited a village to-day and saw a sad, sad sight— men and 
 
28 BiM and Garenganze. [Aug, 
 
 women alike reeling drunk. Ocimbombo (native beer) abounds. 
 Groups of men and women might be seen, each group with a calabash 
 of beer in the centre. The natives assert that it is their food, yet one 
 can see very plainly what an awful evil Satan has made of the 
 too free use of it. Whilst at the village I saw a man weaving a 
 handsome garment of various colours with the utmost ease and 
 rapidity. As to his loom, it was a rude structure, which speaks 
 all the more for his work. 
 
 lyd. — Still at Kasombo. Letters have just been brought to our 
 camp by a Bihdan trader, from our dear brethren at Garenganze. 
 We forward the letters to Bihe, and leave here to-morrow. 
 
 24//^. — CJiinge. The carriers maintain that this country is infested 
 with robbers. There was an outcry a night or two ago that a 
 thief was in camp, but there seemed to be no foundation for the alarm. 
 The Chibokwe do not build mud and wattle huts as the Biheans do. 
 Their huts are made of grass, very neatly thatched. They are 
 very small ; indeed, I do not think I could stand upright in one 
 of them. I suppose they are intended for sleeping purposes only. 
 Our camp of to-day is absolutely swarming with chigoes. 
 
 The narrative is now resumed in Mr. Crawford's words : 
 25///. — To-day we entered the great Chibokwe country, out of 
 which Livingstone had such grave doubts of ever getting in 1854. 
 Early in the day we passed a solitary village in a huge forest. To 
 the passer-by there might seem no difference between this and any 
 of the preceding Valoimbe villages, but a closer inspection revealed 
 huts built differently, with tall conical roofs, and one or two 
 quite spiral in their simple way. Camped at Ndandula. 
 
 A LARGE SLAVE CARAVAN. 
 
 26///. — To-day we made great strides through this ^^ hungry 
 C02intry," the carriers being eight hours on the road. Not long 
 after our start we crossed the Uhemba river, flowing n.e. There 
 was much hard travelling to-day, owing to the irregular features of 
 the country— long pure white sandy slopes being often encountered, 
 which were not a little trying. Although I write this entry with 
 the setting sun I have still vividly before me a sad, heart-revolting 
 sight which I saw to-day — a slave caravan on the march ! A 
 monster in size it was, perhaps 800, all told, drawing near the 
 close of its long journey from the far-off Luba country. This 
 travelling mass of humanity had been months on the road, and 
 was just emerging from the long ten days' hungry march. An 
 hour ago 1 could not have trusted myself to write of the harrowing 
 sights ! There were aged men and women whose poor shrivelled 
 
1890.] Slave Children. 29 
 
 forms told of a welcome release soon for them from the mortal 
 coil, mothers with babies on their backs ('one just born that morning), 
 and tall, strong-looking young women and girls, some of them with 
 fine features, carrying heavy loads. One of these had fallen behind, 
 seemingly quite helpless, with no more strength left for her load. 
 I just appeared on the scene to see her inhuman owner beat the 
 poor girl unmercifully on the head with a club, yelling out a threat 
 with every stroke. Saddest sight of all were the scores of little 
 children crawling along naked, many of them not above four years 
 of age. Smile to them assuringly as one might, these dear little 
 ones would only dart into the brushwood fear-stricken. Ah ! and 
 no wonder, for after all it is the white man who buys the slaves. 
 Camped at Lialowa. 
 
 I'jth. — A long day's journey, commenced in the cold morning in 
 order to escape as much as possible the scorching sun, which towards 
 noon gets simply unbearable. If yesterday was toilsome, to-day was 
 doubly so. The country was of the rough, hilly order, with the hills 
 so huddled together that the descent of one meant facing the imme- 
 diate ascent of another, and this repeated all day ! Some of these 
 hills were densely wooded, and it was wonderfully fine to get buried 
 in the cool depths of the wild tangled woods, the path often scarcely 
 discernible among the overhanging bushes, which, as we broke our 
 way through, would rebound and make our faces smart. To-day I 
 must note the change in the style of the ant-hills, which are now 
 pretty generally in the form of a parallelogram, roofed, with overhang- 
 ing eaves. Camped at Munyangue. 
 
 iZtJi. — Still journeying through this wilderness- — beautiful, but dreary. 
 I have not a jot to add by way of variety in scenery. One wonders 
 how a country so beautiful is so deserted. To-day encountered a 
 homeward-bound caravan hurrying through it. Camped at Kotete. 
 
 29///. — Heat more excessive than before. Camped at Sacanga, 
 where were two little villages, each made up of about a dozen huts. 
 Mr. Lane and I crossed with our headmen to greet the chief, and give 
 him a few yards of cloth. It was a wonderfully interesting sight to 
 see these people, all alone in their primitive environment, cut off for 
 the most part in this wilderness from even their own tribe. The huts 
 had the same spiral roofs mentioned previously, but walls not mudded, 
 the substitute being a tight, neat thatching. Walking among the 
 simple villagers, we saw them pounding corn for meal in mortars ; 
 but most interesting of all was the glimpse we got into the rubber 
 manufacture. The root lines our path all day long, and often its little 
 green shoot is the only thing growing in the white sand. This root is 
 dug out and soaked in the ver, after which the bark is laboriously 
 pounded in a mortar. 
 
30 Bihe and Garenganze. [Sept. 
 
 I endeavoured through the headmen to tell the wherefore of our 
 coming. The name of God they knew not. This Chibokwe country 
 is the great home of honey, and though the season had not come yet, 
 a number of young men went off to the woods to procure some for 
 us. The chief (Sambesi) we did not meet, but we left with the luxury 
 of a fowl, and a large quantity of ombowe, an article of food about 
 which I have not yet informed you. It is that which I most enjoy of 
 all the native foods. Some cannot bear the smell of it, much less 
 the taste, but Mr. Currie and 1, in his little Chisamba cabin, used to 
 consume it in quantities. To me it has the far-off taste of bread and 
 cheese, and quite artlessly I eat away at it with this idea in my head. 
 Actually, it is the manioc soaked for four days in the brook until it 
 is soft and pulpy— if you like, decomposed. 
 
 2,0th. — A good five hours' march over country far more hilly than 
 any yet encountered. The climbing of steep slopes was rendered 
 harder work by the unbearably strong sun. As already noted, by far 
 the most disadvantageous feature of our journey is the uneven surface 
 of the country. Every morning we (the white men) march out of 
 camp about six, and take a morning walk of an hour or more. The 
 sight of the long serpent-looking line of carriers marching Indian file 
 down to the river is a very fine one, and then, when they file past, 
 each man has his morning greeting to give, followed with some droll 
 remark. One perhaps will start a song, and the whole line will take 
 up the howling chorus ; this is especially so when near the end of a 
 long, fagging journey. Camped at Kalosona* 
 
 SCARCITY OF FOOD. 
 
 ^ist. — To-day we started with serious thoughts of reaching Peho, 
 but our poor hunger-stricken caravan would not venture that distance, 
 so we camped contentedly an easy day's journey from that place. 
 Often we have compunction in taking our own meals, frugal indeed 
 though these are, with just the knowledge that our men are feeling 
 
 * Kalosema means meal, but now nothing is to be found there but grass and 
 water. The Chibokwe villages at one time were thick all along this road, for 
 on every hand there are remains of them, with large tracts of country that 
 must have been cultivated in the past. But where are the people now ? These 
 West African tribes never wage wars of extermination against one another ; 
 but this country is practically uninhabited, though beautiful and well watered. 
 The native explanation of the matter is that "A /cinq's curse rests upon it." 
 They think that the spirit of some long departed king would molest and injure 
 anyone settling there, and very few have dared to make the attempt. In this 
 way we may account for the Chibokwe "hungry country," which causes such 
 sore difficulty to passing caravans. In other regions similar desolation has 
 doubtless been due to unmerciful wars. — F. S. A. 
 
iSgo.] Escaping the Chief of Peho. 31 
 
 the bitings of hunger. Only fancy, every man commences his heavy 
 day's work without a morsel of food, and journeys under a burning 
 sun, not tasting anything until sunset, when perhaps ten of them 
 gather round one pot, not by any means abnormally large. Camped 
 at Tenda. 
 
 September ist. — An easy day's journey, void of any hard climbing. 
 Where we were not squeezing our way through a tangled wood we 
 were travelling agreeably in the open. When about midway to camp 
 we emerged from a thick forest, and after a slight descent found our- 
 selves at the very source of the far-flowing Lumesa river, which from 
 this point, after a brief turn northward, takes an easterly bend and 
 flows on in that direction till the western border of the Kifumadji F'lat 
 is reached, where it changes its course to almost due south until joined 
 by the Luena river running east, when they conjointly empty them- 
 selves further south into the Zambesi. Our route ran parallel with 
 this river in its infant state for fully an hour, until abruptly turning 
 due east we lost sight of it. By the way we greeted a little party of 
 travellers going west, who had a very doleful story to tell. They had 
 been trading in the interior, and on returning were attacked in the 
 Luvale country, all their goods being taken from them, and a number 
 of their people stolen. They were able to sell us a little ombowe, 
 which we thanked God for, as all our meal is done, and this morning 
 we had to start without any. Reached the spot accredited on the map 
 of Africa with the name of Peho, and that too in Roman letters. 
 The infamous Samikilenge, who so bothered Mr. Arnot, was not at 
 his little group of hamlets, having gone two days north to hunt, and 
 it was hinted, and we even dared to hope, that by some means we 
 might avoid this dreaded man; but latest reports assure us that if 
 not to-night then to-morrow on the road he will meet us. Our camp 
 is built on a steep slope, at the bottom of which flows the Salena 
 river. 
 
 2nd. — Last night we bundled up our tribute of thirty-two yards of 
 assorted cloth, and early this morning crossed the Saleno, prepared 
 to meet the chief of Peho, upon whom we had prayed God to put 
 His fear. Now the marvel of the day was that his lordship did not 
 put in an appearance, and to-morrow, when he arrives at our old 
 camp, it will be to find the birds flown. To-day we met large com- 
 panies of his hunting-party, who informed us of their chief's coming 
 on the morrow. After a good day's travel, for the most part through 
 thick forests, we emerged on a flat green, where were the only two 
 villages about here. It does look so strange to see these villages built 
 by the wayside, with no attempt made at a stockade, the grass hut 
 and corn bin being the two conspicuous features — both built alike, 
 the latter being almost as big as the former. A sharp turn east 
 
32 Bilie and Garengaiize. [Sept. 
 
 brought into full view the Luena river, looking at this point in its long 
 career as though it were made up of numerous little ponds linked 
 together. We journeyed along its north bank for fully four miles, 
 keeping at no greater distance than loo yards from the river, on the 
 opposite bank of which we saw little groups of women and children, 
 who looked up in a wondering way from their occupation of rubber 
 boiling, and set up that strange, long-sustained, shrill cooing noise 
 which is the greeting of the women in the Chibokwe country. Camp- 
 ing in a beautiful forest we sent back our little gift of cloth (6 yards) 
 to the chief of this district, who received it most kindly, and sent in 
 return a large fowl and basket of meal. Ah ! the good Lord knew 
 that these last two days had seen an empty meal bag, so to-night He 
 gave us a song to sing over this gift. From this point onward 
 we shall encounter numbers of people, and an increasing quantity of 
 food. Camped at Ono-yaluena. 
 
 yd. — Spent the whole day coursing along the bare north bank of 
 the Luena, watching its windings and eastward flow. Often it assumed 
 a lovely, waving, ribbon-like form, with only now and then spare 
 vegetation lining its banks in the form of short stubby bushes of 
 brightest green. Brought the day's journey to a close by crossing the 
 Luena, where it is only waist deep, climbing the slope which rises 
 from the valley of the river, and resting in a fine large camp beauti- 
 fully thatched. Sent eight handkerchiefs to the chief, and received in 
 return a fine goat and supply of meal. Camp — Olohanga. 
 
 FORESTS BY DAY AND MINSTRELS BY NIGHT. 
 
 \tJi. — We passed the greater part of the day traversing large virgin 
 forests with little breaks of bare, grassy country between. These 
 forests are densely thick, and quite impenetrable beyond ten yards or 
 so from the path. Great monster creepers abound, now coiling them- 
 selves around trees, and anon reaching across to others which they 
 hug in their tenacious grasp ; these the while being crossed and re- 
 crossed by others. It would be impossible to conjecture all the forms 
 of life, animal and vegetable, of which such forests are the home. 
 Yes, real wild jungles they are, and one most naturally likes to have 
 his gun-carrier hard by when passing through. En route we found a 
 part of the road strewn with slave shackles and sticks, which had 
 been ruthlessly torn from the loads. This was the scene of a big 
 plunder which happened quite lately, when a large Bihean caravan 
 was robbed by the natives of these parts who had lain in ambush 
 along the path. When you think that I have timed one of these 
 caravans as having taken two hours to pass, you will at once see how 
 easy it is for an enemy in any number to cut off what is often a 
 straggling rear from the main body of the caravan. On this account 
 
1890.] The Usimoi River. 33 
 
 I brought up the extreme rear yesterday and to-day with the headmen, 
 and endeavoured, amid their loud talk of what they would do if 
 attacked, to expound the blessed principles of our errand of peace. 
 When scarcely 1000 yards from camp we encountered the lovely 
 Usimoi river flowing eastward across our path, at our crossing point 
 perhaps forty feet wide. Camped on a height overlooking the chief's 
 village at Miisiko^ to whom we sent twenty-four yards of cloth. In 
 response he has intimated the coming of a present on the morrow, 
 but will preface it by sending to-night a band of native minstrels to 
 dance and sing in our encampment. Our beseechings to the contrary 
 are all in vain ; to repel them is to be repulsive to a chief who in 
 former days dealt fairly with Mr. Arnot, and is now making overtures 
 of friendship to us. May I sleep to-night ! 
 
 ^th. — All night long, commencing about eight p.m., until breakfast 
 time the minstrels made their noise, dancing and singing around a 
 huge fire to the accompaniment of two large drums. The chief came 
 up to see us with a crowd of followers, and brought a nice fat sheep as 
 a present. He is a quiet man and reasonable. To-day we spent in 
 camp rationing our men, which event came off very quietly, each man 
 receiving two yards of cloth and one small tinful of beads. 
 
 dtli. — We left our camp this morning, feeling so much better for our 
 day's rest, and had not gone a mile when the Usimoi again barred 
 our path. This crossed, we kept all day along the north bank, close 
 to the margin of the river, and I am sure none were so favoured as we 
 this September morn in the choice of a walk. Here was the river all 
 day long rushing down in a silvery sheet, often breaking into white 
 spray where the rapids were reached, and varying in width as it flowed 
 along — here squeezing its course through a narrow gully with steep 
 banks, and further on expanding into a beautiful broad sheet, centred 
 with pretty little islets loaded with vegetation. Camped at Boina, on 
 the Usimoi river, and sent the chief thirty-two yards of cloth, to which, 
 after beseechings and demands on his part, we added a small quantity 
 of powder and salt. This is the first time we have given powder by 
 way of tribute, and it was only with the guarantee that it should be 
 used for hunting purposes. Thus far we have been plagued with 
 requests for powder, and have refrained from giving any, notwithstand- 
 ing its big market value in food, because of its having already proved 
 such a mighty scourge to this vast continent. However, the subject 
 has another aspect. In the light of the wildness of these countries, 
 and in view of the fact that there are big game, which are proof to a 
 great extent against bow and arrow, there is some warrant, 1 think, for 
 giving powder in small quantities for hunting. 
 
 jlh. — All night long on the other bank of the Usimoi a dancing 
 party serenaded us, and this morning the chief crossed with his 
 
34 BiJie and Gavenganze. [Sept. 
 
 present of a nice goat and two baskets of meal. He had much more 
 the look of a chieftain than Musiko, and wore a most imposing head- 
 dress. The further east we go the more fantastic these head-dresses 
 become. At Musiko, and again here, the natives seem to vie with each 
 other in marking their bodies with great red and white splashes of 
 colour, which gives them a fierce, hideous look. To-day's journey was 
 grievously short, only a few hours along the Usimoi, from which we 
 parted company a mile or two from camp, and took a forest tramp, 
 into which our path led us. As we emerged, the shrill cooing of 
 women denoted villages near by, alongside which was our camp. Our 
 lovely friend the Usimoi seems to have left us now. At this camp — 
 Sakuita — we have the odd experience of having to deal with two 
 chiefs, each of whom claims tribute. The greater of the two has built 
 his village on the other bank, the lesser has his place hard by our 
 camp, but why there should be a lesser when there is a greater, is to 
 us a mystery. The former received twenty-five yards of cloth, the 
 latter twenty ; in return we received two fine pigs, one fowl, four 
 large baskets of meal. 
 
 A BIHEAN CARAVAN ; FURTHER NEWS FROM GARENGANZE. 
 
 Zth. — It was a glorious morning, and as there was nothing between 
 us and the Ndala Kavala but loo yards or so of green heath, we had 
 that fine river in full view on our left the greater part of the morning, 
 until a slight variation north took it from sight. We had not left it 
 long, however, when we found our old friend the Luena crossing our 
 path in a southward flow, on the outskirts of a long, bare plain. The 
 Ndala Kavala flows into it. To-day, by a strange coincidence, we 
 stumbled across a large Bihean caravan homeward bound, bearing 
 letters from our brethren in the Garenganze. This caravan was a 
 strangely mixed up crowd indeed. Its leader I knew. Antonio, Mr. 
 Arnot's old interpreter, was there, a low, cheating fellow. Then there 
 was the strange phenomenon in these parts of two wandering Zanzi- 
 bar-is, who had crossed over with an Arab caravan from Zanzibar, 
 taking five months to do the journey, and who were bent on seeing 
 the other side of the continent. They wore the little skull caps and 
 long blouses of the Arabs. Another little detachment was led by one 
 of the counsellors of the king of Bihe, who had been all the way to 
 Nana Kandundu, discussing a law suit with the queen there, and the 
 last important person was a messenger of Msidi's to Benguella. All 
 these westward-going individuals of course reminded us of the hungry 
 Chibokwe country ahead, and how acceptable a small present would 
 be. In such a meeting on the road between two caravans, the interior- 
 bound one generally fares badly. The polygamic nature of the Bihean 
 family circle gives the ordinary (Jcimbundu a number of relatives, and 
 
1890.] 
 
 The African Working-man, 
 
 35 
 
 if he meets one of these in a strange country he is compelled, in 
 honour bound, to help him, and, of course, this being (so I am told) a 
 solemn understanding amongst them, he in turn one day shares in 
 the privilege of receiving. The large slave caravan which passed us 
 (August 26th) proved a very effectual drain on some of our men. I 
 asked one man where his shirt was, and the only reply was an 
 indignant query, " Are they not my relatives ?" " Who ?" I asked, and 
 he thereupon explained to me that he had met some friends that day, 
 etc., etc. 
 
 We turned aside from the path and camped opposite the town 
 of Sumbula, a man who amongst Biheans is the reputed friend 
 of Monare. There was no camp, so the men had to set to and build, 
 which they did with a will. Why, the bitterest complaint probably 
 that a British working man can make is that he returned home 
 from work to find wife not there and fire out, which he had to kindle 
 and then cook his meal ; but what think ye of these men ? This 
 morning, according to custom, they rose up with nothing by way 
 
 i^fl' 
 
 An African Camt. 
 
 of breakfast, shouldered their loads and marched, journeying on 
 for hours, until a fine wooded bit of country was reached, and 
 this they were told was camp. Soon the forest all around was 
 ringing with hatchets at work and the sound of falling trees ; and 
 later the frame-work of our good-sized village was standing awaiting 
 a covering of leafy boughs. By dusk all had been finished, beds 
 built, etc., and then pots mounted the fires, and the mush was 
 cooked. Now, behold the contrast ! The worthy Briton eating 
 his evening meal in his house ready built for him, and growhng 
 because he had to cook it : the Ocimbundu squatting on the 
 ground perhaps, eating his only meal (that the other might call 
 fit for dogs) ; but after finishing his day's work of carrying — a 
 
-^6 Bike and Garenganze. [Sept. 
 
 hard day's work too — he had to build his house, and only then 
 bethought himself of preparing an evening meal ; all this (and 
 this is the point) being gone through in a matter-of-fact, good- 
 natured way ! 
 
 ()lh. — Sumbula visited us this morning in camp. He used many 
 expressions of friendship towards us, and was quite beseeching in his 
 request that we should take an ox ; but we stoutly refused, knowing 
 what work it meant in the cutting up and dividing of the same ; we 
 suggested a pig as an acceptable return present for our thirty-two 
 yards, which came duly to hand. I was struck with the old man's 
 kindly smile, which had all the look of reality about it that one 
 could wish for.* 
 
 loth. — A very short journey in the fresh morning along a flat 
 path, which for the tirst hour skirted two of those already mentioned 
 impenetrable forests, and then led out into the open. By the wayside 
 in the vicinity of some villages we had the interesting sight of native 
 blacksmiths at work. Built upon a flat mound they have their 
 earthen fireplace and anvil, which are roofed over with thatch, and 
 there, with two little boys blowing the bellows, the smith goes to 
 work with scarcely less primitive tools than Tubal-cain had. The 
 result attained, as far as hatchets are concerned, is splendid, and 
 personally 1 wish for nothing better in house-building than a good 
 native hatchet. The blade is V-shaped, and at the edge not any 
 broader than an inch chisel. It is reversible, and can be used as an 
 adze. Camped at " Onoya Chonga " (the spring of the Chonga river) 
 in a huge camp, which, five minutes after our arrival, was filled with a 
 seething mass of natives. 
 
 THE LOVALE PEOPLE. 
 
 Septoiiber ii//«.— On the march by si.K. Crowds of villagers came 
 out to " coo " us off, and when we lost sight of their pleasant faces, and 
 villages not less so, it was to enter upon a forest tramp, which ended 
 in our being ushered into a great flat plain, on the other side of which 
 lay our camp in the midst of a number of villages. To record a 
 march of only two hours is a very trying thing to do, with memories 
 of our Chibokwe marches, but there is a grim necessity for this 
 snail's space on our part. To-day we left the Chibokwe country 
 
 * On my first visit to Sumbula's town he begged me to receive the gift of an 
 ox. I refused it, pleading my inability to give a return present — this being no 
 breach of etiquette in Africa. If one were "greedy" enough to accept a gift 
 witliout having the wherewithal to give the expected return present, he would 
 be considered very mean indeed. Sumbula, however, gave me the ox with a 
 legal acquittal, by breaking a dry twig in two and throwing half over each of 
 his shoulders. — F. S. A. 
 
iSgo.] A Thickly-peopled Country. 37 
 
 behind, and after traversing such flat plains were not surprised, 
 but rather quite prepared, for the intimation that we were among 
 " the people of the Flats " or Va-lovale. Unfortunately we were 
 not able to make Kangombe's capital to-day owing to the fact 
 (a strange enough one too ! ) that here, right on the western border of 
 the Lovale country, he has set down his nephew Kasenga with power 
 to demand tribute from travellers. Kangombe himself (as his son 
 has just finished telling me) has gone to Lake Dilolo to build another 
 ombala there, not forgetting to leave, in his onibala near by, his wife, 
 armed with full tribute-demanding powers. On enquiring from our 
 headmen the exact state of this country in regard to its monarchy, I 
 find it is here as in the Chibokwe, that while petty chiefs abound, just 
 dressed in sufficient " brief authority " to be able to very much 
 inconvenience the traveller, yet they all own the supremacy of one 
 chief who is really king of the country. This supreme individual 
 in the Lovale, I am told, is not Kangombe, but one Kakenge, or 
 Chinyama, whose capital is to the south somewhere. Nana Kan- 
 dundu and Kangombe are both his " children," and tributary to him. 
 A very encouraging fact to any who might think of settling here 
 is, that in these parts many speak fluent Umbundu ; and to-day 
 I had the wondrous joy of explaining to an elderly well-dressed 
 sekulo, seemingly of some importance in the country, God's way 
 to life and glory. To a number of his young men who accompanied 
 him he would ever and anon turn and rehearse what I was 
 saying. Oh, may God send soon to these parts (which long ere 
 now dear Morris and Gall had thought to occupy) a waterer of 
 the seed and a reaper thereof for His glory's sake ! Oh, these 
 thronging Kangombe crowds ! 
 
 Later (by the camp fire). — We have had not a little trouble 
 with the chief over the tribute question, and finally after having given 
 him thirty yards of cloth, one merino vest, and quantities of salt 
 and powder, we received nothing in return. Thank God ! our larder 
 was not dependent upon him for its stock, and even though it 
 had been low, " li is better to trust in the Lo7'd than to put confidence 
 in princes.^' However our King made us glad by the coming to 
 us at nightfall of a small chief who, having heard of our arrival, 
 had come a long distance to greet us, bringing with him a fine 
 goat and a large supply of meal as white as driven snow. The 
 last event which I have to record, of what turned out to be a 
 busy day, is the sorrowful item of the death of one of our men. I was 
 called in to see his lifeless body, yet warm ; it was that of an elderly 
 sekiilo, who had only been complaining for a few days. It is to us a 
 great comfort that all along the journey he was the bearer of the 
 lightest load in the caravan, and that on that part of the journey 
 
38 Bihe and Garenganze. [Sept. 
 
 where the greatest strain was brought upon the men, he only carried 
 our meal-bag which was, to start with, under-weight, and daily 
 became lighter. His companions with much unfeigned grief buried 
 him secretly in his hut at midnight, lest the news should reach the 
 ears of the natives who, if they heard it, would make great use of the 
 occasion in delaying our caravan for weeks perhaps, and extorting all 
 sorts of things by way of a fine / 
 
 12///. — Struck camp at six a.m. with a mutual understanding that, 
 if at all possible, we would get past the ombala of Kangombe by 
 simply handing in our tribute to the chiefess. On these long flats one 
 can almost see the end of the journey at the beginning ; it was 
 so to-day, alas ! for on coming up to the tall ombala sycamores, 
 which we had seen ahead for an hour, towering so beautifully 
 above everything else, we were surrounded by the chief's counsellors, 
 who would not hear of our passing that day ; these were soon joined 
 by the chiefess herself, whose voice in the matter quite determined 
 our stay. So here we are pitched, with about 200 yards or so of 
 soft boggy ground between us and the ombala of Kangombe. Food 
 about here is abundant. Salt can buy almost anything that is 
 for sale, although there is quite a clamour for tobacco. Bananas and 
 tomatoes are fairly plentiful, also sweet potatoes, the first seen 
 since we crossed the Kwanza. Speaking as calmly as possible — with 
 these thronging crowds of people all around — oh, one cannot but 
 plead for the occupying of this part of the country by a herald of 
 the cross ! It is only a one hour and three-quarter's journey from 
 our last camp to here ; and what thousands of souls in that small 
 compass are wrapped in the darkness of death ! Our tribute was 
 thirty-two yards assorted cloth and salt. 
 
 13M. On the march at seven a.m. for Ekovongo. Re-crossed the 
 marsh which separated us from the ombala, and were met on the 
 other side by crowds of people who had come down to the wayside 
 for a last look at us. All the journey we had this marshy belt on our 
 right, which here and there had scattered over its surface ponds 
 of water a few feet deep, making it pretty certain that the natives 
 have difficulty in the rainy season in keeping the marsh from 
 becoming a good-sized lake. Stretching across it at intervals are 
 light wicker fences standing two or three feet high, which we were 
 informed the natives had built to catch fish. Though not always 
 visible, all along this route there are numbers of villages on 
 either side, their existence being declared by little groups of villagers 
 standing on the side path leading down from their village, or by the 
 cooing of people hidden from our view among the trees and 
 thick brushwood. When we were just in the act of turning off 
 from the main path to our camp we spied the green-banked Chonga 
 
1890.] A Theft by Night. 39 
 
 on the right, at whose source we camped on the loth, now a river 
 flowing due east. 
 
 14M. — In the glorious early Sunday morn we joined the beautiful 
 Chonga, and more or less kept company with it all day. One spot in 
 the march had a peculiarly lovely look about it to me, and that 
 was where for about a mile the prevailing flatness disappeared, 
 and the scenery bore all the wooded, rocky marks of the Scottish 
 highlands. Camped at Nalingombe, with the Chonga near by, winding 
 through a wavy plain, so bare that for miles ahead we can see 
 its eastward flow. Across the stream there stands a lovely village, 
 while further beyond is the onibala, encircled by a belt of stately 
 sycamores. Tribute, sixteen yards check cloth and quantities of 
 salt and powder. 
 
 "powers that be." 
 
 15///. — Being awakened this morning by the general noise of 
 excited speaking, I was informed that during the night a carrier had 
 been robbed of a bale of cloth, one barrel of powder, a blanket, 
 bag of meal, and gun. To show the man our sympathy with him we 
 declared a halt that day, in order that a searching enquiry should be 
 prosecuted as to the whereabouts of the thief. Whether fortunately 
 or not I shall not say, the goods belonged to the man himself. The 
 chiefess crossed with her husband, bringing a small present of 
 two fowls and supply of meal. She waited a long time, and expressed 
 her sorrow for the theft, deprecating at the same time her inability 
 to trace out the thief. Divining was suggested as the only 
 true means of bringing home the charge to the right man, but 
 the local diviner's fees amounted to something like forty yards 
 of cloth, which the now poor trader could not afford. 
 
 \6th. — On the march with the Chonga still on our right. We 
 had just been on the road an hour when there sallied out from a tiny 
 little group of hamlets to the roadside a well-dressed native, in 
 company with a small crowd of young men and boys. He beckoned 
 us to stop, and we were soon listening to his assertion that he was a 
 chief, and that we must not pass his place that day. He pointed, 
 moreover, to an elevation where, through the trees, we saw the ruins 
 of an old burnt camp, and there we were ordered to camp. Our poor 
 frightened lot of Biheans gave in at once, and we were soon in 
 the burnt camp, our road-blocking friend accompanying us. Calling 
 our leading man, who was cowering in the background, I asked 
 him to interpret our words truthfully to the chief, which were 
 to the effect that we had resolved to make Kalundu to-day, and, God 
 willing, we would. We besought him to think of coming rains, 
 and our long journey ahead, of yesterday lost over the theft business, 
 etc, The good Loi'd graciously gave us the victory. Permission was 
 
40 Bihe and Garenganze. [Sept. 
 
 given to advance, on condition that tribute was paid, which we did to 
 the extent of twelve yards and salt. I merely note this incident 
 to show how possible it is for many such blocks to be strewn 
 across the path of travellers going east. And yet, after all, difficulties 
 reckoned and duly debited, what a sublime position is ours ! Here 
 we are thrown hard back upon our God, who is able to go before and 
 make for His heralds a way of peace right on to the desired 
 haven. For the moment, a supreme feeUng of contempt (alas, 
 that I must write it !) comes over one when confronted by these 
 petty road-blockers. To think that our caravan — with many men 
 possessing their own weapons, and often outnumbering all the muster 
 one such petty chief could make — must stop for a day, was hard ; but, 
 oh ! all such thinking is only carnal and fleshly, aye, and when 
 fully developed would end in bloodshed. Wondrous thought — 
 "There is no power but of God." Further, "the power" is His 
 ordinance; ergo the resistance of "the power" is the resistance 
 of " the ordinance of God." Desire to arrive in good time is laudable 
 enough, but joy in these ordinances <7/G^<7rt? supersedes all. Moreover, 
 the thought of one's real pilgrimage homewai^d, and that our coming 
 One may intercept us en ?'Oute, has a wonderful adjusting and 
 balancing power in one's soul. 
 
 (Mr. Crawford has touched here but briefly on the secret source 
 of strength for patience and submission. My experience has often 
 been that the certain hope of our Lord's return and of deliverance 
 and victory then, in answer to present day prayer, has given songs 
 in the night, and wonderfully lightened one's steps.) 
 
 A SMALL AFRICAN LAKE. 
 
 Restarling, we continued the traversing of the same flat country, 
 the lovely river near us robbing the scenery of sameness, until 
 we sighted the onihala sycamores of Kaliindu. It is built at the 
 south-west corner of Lake Kalundu. We camped about three-quarters 
 of a mile from the west side of the lake. The Biheans had much to 
 tell us about crocodiles making this lake their own, and it was 
 only after hearing several emphatic statements by the people of 
 the country to the contrary, that we felt warranted in plunging into it 
 for a swim. This is the first African lake 1 have yet encountered, and 
 of course it was intensely interesting to stand on a rock and watch 
 the waves come in as of yore in Scotland. Roughly measured I 
 would judge it to be three good miles long by one and a half wide. 
 We had the whole area in sight, most of it being bounded by 
 thick waving grass. Biheans as a rule cannot swim, the exceptions 
 being those who can keep themselves afloat after the dog fashion. I 
 
iSgo.] Blood Friendship. 41 
 
 omitted to state that the Lungenda river flows into this lake. That 
 strip of water, with its ombnla at the farthest corner, two large 
 villages on the left along the shore, and numbers more such on 
 the north side, was a sight not to be forgotten, because deeply 
 pathetic, when viewed in the light of Calvary. Tribute, twenty-four 
 yards of cloth and salt. 
 
 I'jth. — To-day we were just about an hour and a half on the 
 march when we reached the ombala of Kalunga Kameya, running 
 close to which is the broad and beautiful Lumesa river flowing south, 
 last seen September ist, then an infant, now a large river almost 
 as broad as the Kwanza. There being no camp, we called at the 
 ombala and asked the chief to direct us where to build, which 
 he did at a spot on the other side of the river. Here we rest 
 to-morrow in order to ration our men. Tribute, thirty-two yards 
 of cloth and a quantity of salt. 
 
 18///. — Had to rise at midnight and clear the encampment of 
 a company of musicians who, despite entreaties to go home, 
 had broken through our stockade and commenced their brawling 
 in the centre of the camp. They professed to have come from 
 the chief to do us all-night honour, but we had resolved not to 
 tolerate any such thing longer, as in a country like this, infested with 
 robbers, their noise affords a fine cloak for such to easily remove the 
 thatch of a hut, all unheard by its occupant, and steal anything or 
 everything within. The musicians, not to be frustrated, lighted 
 a huge fire as near the stockade as possible, and danced and 
 sang around it till morning. To watch their mad antics and their 
 strange hideous-looking faces is almost as smile-provoking as it is 
 sad. 
 
 \<^th. — This morning a very pressing message came across from the 
 chief, begging us to remain with him another day, as he wanted 
 to give us a large goat and part upon terms of "okasendo" or 
 blood friendship, but we begged to decline the honour, knowing that 
 it meant on our part a further present of cloth, i.e., that his 
 "blood friendship" idea was none other than one of "bleeding'" 
 us. Notwithstanding our refusal we parted on good terms, our 
 friend sending with us a messenger to the next camp, requesting the 
 chief of that place to treat us kindly as his friends. Leaving 
 the beautiful Lumesa behind us we entered upon a nice wooded 
 country, the denseness of which, however, after two hours, began 
 to disappear, trees giving place to short bushes, and these to 
 grass tufts on bare sand. A sharp turn brought into full view the long- 
 looked-for Kifumadji Flat stretching away on our left, a great barren 
 waste. Camped at Na Kawesa. Our first choice of a camping place 
 was most unfortunate, being (all unknown to us) in close proximity to 
 
 D 
 
42 Bihe and Garenganze. [Sept. 
 
 the burial-place of the chiefs ; so rather than be a cause of annoyance 
 to the natives we moved to the north, nearer the villages. As heralds 
 of the cross of Christ to-day we three were grievously pained to see at 
 noon in our encampment a slave shackled to the ground, his 
 master having gone to the woods to cut trees for hut building. 
 He was a poor, frail, middle-aged man, who had been bought at 
 the last camp for an old gun. Oh, to think how helpless we 
 are in all this hellish trafficking in human flesh ! Our carriers 
 stare at us vacantly when we charge them with the injustice and 
 wrong done to every soul bought by them. It is the law of the 
 country, we are told, and are further asked, " Do not the white 
 men buy slaves.?" 
 
 THE KIFUMADJI FLAT. 
 
 loth. — In old maps, I believe, the Kifumadji Flat is called a 
 sea, and sure enough (though this is a misnomer), looking out from 
 our camp in the cold grey morning on the far-stretching expanse 
 of desert lying at our feet, it seemed very like a scene at sea — 
 we, as it were, camped on the beach, and stretching along it 
 for some distance there were several large marshy ponds where 
 iish of some kind abound, while beyond lay the great ocean of 
 sand, shorn by the wind of anything that ever grew upon it, 
 save dry, withered grass. Away on the horizon, like ships, you might 
 see, if you looked long enough, the faint outline of one or two 
 palm-like trees. For five hours we journeyed on through this 
 waste, and although the path was as level as could be, the 
 sinking sand made it very toilsome work.* Towards the close of 
 the journey, wells, which had been dug by former native travellers, 
 began to appear, and these were anxiously peered down into for 
 water ; but all were dried up. At last our fagged-out men would 
 no longer be beguiled on by hopes of finding water in these old wells, 
 and declared they would dig for it. This they did right nobly, under 
 a broiling sun. After an hour or so of digging, one man's head 
 would peep up above the top of the old well and send forth an 
 exultant shout, which had all the force and equivalent of the 
 Greek discoverer's " Eureka " long ago. At first what we drank 
 had the appearance of the dirtiest gutter- water that could be seen 
 at home, but early visitors to the wells in the morning found 
 all the sediment settled, and a little fairly clear water. Those 
 who did not go in for well-digging went long distances in search of 
 
 * The Kifumadji Flat is a veritable sea of water during the rainy season. 
 From it the waters flow southward to the Zambezi and northward to the 
 Congo basins. The plain forms a unique watershed. It would be difficult for 
 a surveyor to define the dividing line. 
 
iSgo.] Camping on Ant-moimds. 43 
 
 firewood, and one after another of these came back reporting a lake to 
 be seen away on the southern horizon. The oldest Biheans with us 
 stoutly refused to believe it, and the discussion which followed 
 was finally brought to a point by my offering to accompany the 
 headman to see for ourselves. Off we started due south and 
 journeyed for over two hours, long past where the men had reported 
 the lake, but no water was to be seen. Once or twice I got 
 hold of the same mirage, and insisted that the men were right, 
 for there was a lake, but the elderly man at my side with a 
 sort of patronising look said it was only the white sand. He 
 was right ; for when I shut my eyes for a moment, and then opened 
 them again, it was quite evident no lake was there. The Bihdans 
 declare that journeying due south for ten days nothing would be 
 found but this same sandy waste, so that if their statement is true the 
 Kifumadji Flat on the map of Africa should be much enlarged. But 
 until this part is explored the question of dimension remains an open 
 one. We returned to camp after sundown, having seen only two 
 living things — a jackal and a gnu. Camped at Olotieno. 
 
 2ij/. — Slept last night under canvas, there being nothing worth 
 calling a tree for miles around. Our caravan scattered itself in groups 
 over the surrounding Flat, camping on the top of those large ant- 
 mounds which are a real feature in this desert. Their present dry- 
 season appearance is that of little sandy circular plateaus, which, the 
 men inform me, become islets " when the floods burst." To-day we 
 spent over five hours " out on the ocean sailing " {i.e. the flat), with 
 nothing new for a diary jotting. Tired and exhausted the men set to 
 the laborious task of well-digging, and being an interested person I 
 most naturally took a look round among the diggers to see what 
 progress was being made ; but, oh ! the first man I approached looked 
 up at me aghast, and with the sweat of honest toil on his brow begged 
 me to go away, else my boots would drive away the water ! " Boots," 
 quoth he, " are not for desert sands.'' This evening we remembered 
 our absent yet sweetly realized present Jesus after the manner of 
 His own appointment. We were glad when we saw the Lord. 
 Hallelujah ! 
 
 '' God hath His deserts broad and brown, 
 A solitude — a sea of sand, 
 On which He lets heaven's curtain down, 
 Unlcnit by His Almighty hand ! " 
 
 i2iid. — To-day, after two hours' good travelling, we sighted the 
 luxuriant vegetation of the Kifumadji river, about a mile and a half 
 on our left, and journeyed on for three hours longer, all the while 
 keeping that welcome sight in view. Camped not far from its banks, 
 and in the evening walked down to the river for a shot at a crocodile, 
 
44 Bih^ ^^id- Garenganze. [Sept. 
 
 but only one was seen, and that by a carrier, who threw in a wild 
 fruit, which brought his head above water. Of all the river sights I 
 have yet looked at in Africa none presented such a glorious tropical 
 appearance as this. The banks of the river were so densely lined 
 with thick, rich foliage that it was only within a radius of a mile or so 
 that one could find an opening through which to get a glimpse of the 
 beautiful river, lying as still as any lake, with no perceptible flow at 
 all. The sight was altogether pencil-baffling — water lilies by the 
 thousand, and hosts of other lovely water flowers. 
 
 23r^. — Our route to-day lay alongside the river for four hours, and 
 finally crossed it at a point where it was shallow and narrow. Judge 
 our agreeable surprise to see a few fishermen coming up to our path 
 with fresh fish for sale. They were poor hunted-down Va-lunda, who 
 live a very frugal and hand-to-mouth existence in tiny little huts built 
 by the river's bank. About one hour and a half after leaving camp 
 we arrived at Anyaha or Cross-roads ; the one, F. S. Arnot's old route 
 to Baho, the taking of which meant two more days well-digging ; the 
 other kept along the Kifumadji river for some distance, and then 
 turned almost due north up to Lake Dilolo. Despite the fact of a fair 
 water supply, this route has the supreme disadvantage of leading us 
 to the feet of the great Kangombe, who, doubtless, would make us pay 
 up sweetly. The question of which to take was settled by one of our 
 party going on before by the latter route, not knowing the existence of 
 cross-roads. Taking this route, therefore, we camped at Olohiikii. 
 
 KANGOMBE AND HIS COUNSELLORS. 
 24///. — To-day we lost sight of the Kifumadji river, and journeyed 
 due north over flat grassy plains to Dilolo. Here to our surprise (for 
 it was sooner than expected) we found Kangombe in his oinbala near 
 to our camp. In the evening we accompanied our headmen to greet 
 him, and hand our present. We found the chief sitting on a skin 
 (true Lovale style) on the ground, under a fine spreading tree. En- 
 circling him in good circumference were a number of his old 
 counsellors, talking in confidential tones with their chief. I saw one 
 of these join the group, which he did by approaching the chief at a 
 respectful distance, and falling on his knees ; this done, the loyal 
 coui^tier stooped to the ground and picked up some sand, which he 
 rubbed on his breast, and thereupon proceeded to clap his hands 
 about a dozen times chiefwards ; then having received a most gracious 
 response, the new-comer turned to the company generally with the 
 same profuse hand-clapping. The Kangombe, who was the centre of 
 all this, was no tall giant with kingly bearing, but the most diminutive- 
 looking of individuals. One of his eyes had an approach to a squint, 
 and the whole face told of cunning and tact blended in one. Clearly, 
 
iSgo.] The Great Kangoinbe. 45 
 
 therefore, this man's power seems to rest not in his muscles, but in his 
 shrewd politic tact, as witnesses that benign smile which diffuses itself 
 over his face when talking to his confidants, so persuasive to these 
 poor sycophants ! And, further, he has parcelled out the country, 
 garrisoning every little district with some relative of his, armed with 
 full tribute-extorting powers, whereby he keeps their hearts " white " 
 (as Biheans say) towards him. Our small present of sixteen yards of 
 cloth and a coat was very quietly returned before our eyes, and a 
 larger demand made. Hear the conclusion of the whole matter ! 
 We gave our friend forty yards and a white vest, leaving at sunset on 
 good terms of friendship, which, of course, was a shallow affair, owing 
 to the purchase price thereof. When we (through our headmen) told 
 him of all we had paid others previously at his former haunts, his 
 only reply was that he had authorized their receiving tribute. Kan- 
 gombe also informed us that he had cut off Katema's head (Living- 
 stone's old friend), and placed in his stead one of his children. 
 
 2^th. — Remained in camp to-day, really at the command of the 
 chief, for nothing but a definite edict would keep us. We offered eight 
 yards of cloth to buy his permission to start that day, but he would 
 not hear of our going, and that for two reasons ; first, he desired our 
 men to go to his ombala and fire a salute in his honour, and then he 
 would pay a return visit. The salute firing was the men's affair, not 
 ours, and I believe there was only a muster of some bold ten. Kan- 
 gombe afterwards came down in his tipoia with a large crowd of his 
 people to make one more request, and that was a cover for his tipoia, 
 for which he offered us a slave. Later on in the day one other local 
 gentleman turned up, and rather daringly (with Kangombe hard by) 
 presented his claims for tribute, but a stout defence soon put him Jiors 
 de combat. 
 
 LAKE DILOLO. 
 
 26th. — Off at daybreak, but not too early for the villagers who 
 crowded out to see us start. Kangombe showed his greatness by 
 sending us a tiny fowl as a present by the hand of his oldest counsellor ! 
 Our path led us past a number of little villages, having all the marks 
 of recent origin, then through a fine wooded tract, which ushered us 
 into full view of the north end of Lake Dilolo, lying before us at a 
 distance of two miles. The rising sun was glistening upon the huge 
 sheet of water as we bore down upon it, which made the sight a golden 
 one. A nearer approach revealed, nearly all around the visible margin, 
 tall, waving grass, and abundance of wild fowl. The opposite side 
 might have been five or six miles off from its hazy appearance. For 
 over one hour we journeyed along the west margin, until a broad 
 lagoon was reached at the north end of the lake, which the men 
 crossed in a pretty little canoe : though neat it was not without the 
 
46 Bihe and Garenganze. [Oct. 
 
 "coggley" element, and I was glad enough for the excuse to swim 
 across. In another hour we had our last glimpse of the lake, and 
 another hour gave us our first of the Lutembwa river, overlooking 
 which we camped. I omitted to say previously, that to-day in all 
 probability we crossed Dr. Livingstone's route when he went north- 
 west from the Barotsi valley to Loanda. Touching, indeed, it was to 
 think of that old warrior trudging along these parts, coming up from 
 the south about February 23rd to 25th, 1854. 
 
 27///. — In the early morning we descended to cross the Lutembwa. 
 A grassy plain lay between us and the course of the river. At the 
 edge of this plain rose a great clump of tall, stately trees, each 
 standing as erect as any pine. On entering this it was to find it 
 flooded, like a mangrove swamp. All around and above were sights 
 of bewitching beauty — long hanging mosses drooping down from 
 nearly every tree, icicle fashion, and most lovely delicate ferns thriving 
 in an atmosphere that would kill the strongest man. The water, of 
 course, makes its way to the furthest off nooks, wending through the 
 strange gnarled and twisted tree roots. Reached New Katema to-day, 
 and found a tall young Lovale chief named Katombolo in possession. 
 Katema sure enough is killed, and his old onibala has become an 
 "elunda" or deserted village. The new chief is building his ombala 
 out on a promontory, which rises from the grassy plain. Bihean 
 caravans have had a big traffic for the last ten months in the Katema 
 slaves. Tribute, twenty-four yards ; one fowl in return. 
 
 28//!.— The chief was waiting for us by the roadside when we 
 passed, surrounded with a group of his young men. He seemed very 
 inclined to part on good terms, despite the fact of a slightly " breezy " 
 time I had with him over the tribute last evening, but the breezy 
 element was all on his part. To-day what suprised us was the tall 
 trees and otherwise thick vegetation all around, especially as we are 
 still (according to the map) in the Kifumadji Flat ! Camped beside 
 the Lufuwa river at Kuendende. Sixteen yards tribute was taken 
 gladly by a kindly-looking old man, who came down to see us 
 with two fowls and two large baskets of meal. In the afternoon I was 
 suprised to see a man rushing in a frightened way towards us, 
 and begging me to kill a snake which was coiled in his hut. I found 
 a good thick stick able to do all the killing necessary, though the 
 reptile was of the deadly kind, and about three feet long. 
 
 2C)th. — Crossed the Lufuwa river this morning, finding the same 
 mangrove swamp features about the crossing as those at the 
 Lutembwa. Marched for five hours to Candcnda, camping by 
 the Loamba river. Here the chiefess surprised us by coming 
 first with her gift of two long hampers of fish and meal. 
 
 2o^/{. — Remained in camp to-day over a difference with the chiefess 
 
1890.] Some Knozvledge of God. 47 
 
 on the tribute matter, but eight yards finally settled it. To-day 
 we heard sundry growls from the men which seem to indicate 
 a storm at Nana Kandundu. Some, if not all, want to receive 
 their pay there, so we are quite prepared for a general break-up of the 
 caravan at that place. 
 
 October \st. — Marched to-day for five hours through a lovely 
 country, passing en 7-oiite a small group of villages looking wonderfully 
 pretty, almost buried among the trees. Bananas were growing out in 
 the fields with the manioc, the bright emerald - green leaves of 
 the former contrasting nicely with the latter. One striking feature of 
 a Lovale village is the hut, which is the picture of neatness. The 
 walls, though thatched, are made trim and neat by the skilful manner 
 in which the grass is tied with bark string in diamond shape. 
 Crossed the deep Luluzi river, and camped at Ombela ya Kayiya. 
 While writing the above entry, my boy, who was sitting by the 
 doorway bartering with a raw Lovale native, called my attention to a 
 remark that the native had just made. He was earnestly asserting 
 the cjuality of a certain fowl he was selling, and stooping to the ground 
 he picked up some sand and rubbed it on his tongue, saying, " It 
 is true, as God {Njavibi) sees me." Whether this is a prevalent 
 custom or not amongst these people I know not ; but assuming that it 
 is, how much does it reveal .'' The knowledge of a God, and His all- 
 seeing eye looking down upon them and their heathen orgies ! Ah ! 
 yes, these heathen tribes know more than we at first hearing believe. 
 
 ind. — A short journey over a nicely wooded country brought us 
 to Kaluvalz, where we found a group of villages governed by a 
 chiefess, who as such had no existence when Mr. Arnot first went in, 
 but who since then has been seated by Oueen Nana Kandundu near 
 by. Tribute, twenty yards of cloth. To such hitherto unheard of 
 individuals one feels a little dubious about tribute paying, but on 
 evidences of their authority doubts disappear. Besides, this chiefess 
 is not unsupported ; and an old Bihean, who does not speak 
 much (marvel of his tribe ! ) said to me, " A turtle does not climb 
 up on the top of a tree stump; somebody put him there" ; which 
 proverb understood has a healthful influence over the hearer. 
 
 3r^. — Traversed a fine grassy plain, which had here and there 
 scattered over it small clumps of dense tropical vegetation, into 
 the bosom of which the light of the sun never penetrates. In one of 
 these we got our first sight of three lordly palms. These tropical 
 clumps look so odd in the midst of what is ordinary temperate zone 
 scenery. Marched past the small district of Fela, where F. S. Arnot 
 camped on his interior journey ; then crossed the good-sized Lufuwa 
 river, an hour's journey beyond which lay our camp at Sa//uilivi's 
 villages, a son of Nana Kandundu, who since 1885 has gathered 
 
48 BiJie and Garenganze. [Oct. 1890. 
 
 round him quite a number of people. Not long after our arrival 
 a present of a large goat and lots of meal came in charge of the 
 chief's head - wife. Mr. Thompson and I paid him a visit with 
 twenty-four yards of cloth, which was gladly received by H.R.H., who 
 had donned a fine pair of boots for the occassion. His ombala 
 is quite a sight for neatness, and has round about it what I have 
 not yet seen at any Lovale village — a stockade after the Bihean 
 style. The chief was bent on selling his ivory to us, and seemed 
 rather disappointed, if not amused, at our statements regarding 
 the object of our journey. Although there is so much water all 
 around, yet we had to return to desert style to-day and drink from 
 wells, preparing to enter Nana Kandundu to-morrow. 
 
 An extract of a letter from Mr. Thompson, dated October 
 loth, will conclude this chapter : 
 
 Journeying agrees well with me, and this confirms me in the 
 belief that in Africa exercise, if not excessive, is beneficial. The sun 
 has been shining very strongly, and we had no rain on our journeys, 
 though we had to pass through many marshes. The route across the 
 Kifumadji Flat, which is one vast plain, was remarkable. There 
 was no water for the first two days save what the men dug for, neither 
 were there trees with which to build huts. But the district generally 
 through which our route has lain is not the arid country many people 
 think, as there is found a constant succession of brooks and rivers, 
 some of the latter broad and deep. The men are very cautious in 
 drawing water from those in which crocodiles are to be found. There 
 has been a great supply of fish since September 19th. There is 
 no Indian corn in the Lovale country, but manioc meal is used 
 instead. It is a glutinous substance somewhat like pounded 
 sago, and with honey, which is abundant, is a most satisfying 
 and sustaining food. I do not think Kangombe would be so good 
 a place to live in as Binga, a little to the west of it. 
 
 I am thankful for the privilege of being here, and am desirous of 
 fulfilling the object for which I have come. But where to begin, it is 
 sometimes difficult to know. Pay, food, and fun seem to be the 
 uppermost thoughts in the minds of these people. There are a great 
 many ant-hills from fifteen to twenty feet high in this district, with 
 trees usually growing on the sides of them. There is a little insect 
 here like a silkworm, that spins cotton, which the natives collect 
 and spin into thread. I have watched some of our men doing 
 this, and one of them, with two small sticks like matches, knitted very 
 neatly a girdle like a watch-chain. 
 
CHAPTER VI. 
 
 jfrom ifinna Bantiuntfu to C&avcngan^c. 
 
 (October and November, 1890.) 
 
 NANA KANDUNDU, as the Bihe traders call the chiefess 
 of the north-eastern section of the Va-lovale tribe, is a 
 typical woman of her class, there being many female chiefs in 
 the Lovale country. In 1885 she stored for me thirteen loads, 
 which I was unable, from lack of carriers, to take on to the 
 Garenganze, and on two separate occasions she sent some of 
 those loads after me, a three weeks' journey, by her own men, 
 and I received them at Msidi's. Two years later, when Mr. Swan 
 was on his way to the Garenganze, he also ran short of carriers at 
 this point, and the chiefess came to his help with thirteen men. 
 Nana Kandundu was thus not only a friend, but a helper both of 
 myself and Mr. Swan, when on the same route as the brethren 
 who had now reached her capital. 
 
 The African's proneness to beg, and love of receiving presents, 
 has often been considered incompatible with friendliness, but 
 cases differ. I do not doubt Nana Kandundu's regard for us, 
 though she suffers from this common African weakness. We are 
 very apt to think that the proper thing to do is to rebuke such 
 importunity with some degree of sharpness ; but our three 
 brethren bore with the old lady, and gave her, with many 
 apologies, a present in keeping with their poverty, thus leaving 
 behind them a "white trail." 
 
 MR. CRAWFORD'S DIARY CONTINUED. 
 
 October 4th. — After four hours' journey we marched into Nana 
 Kandundu. The approach for about an hour was very dense with 
 villages, which here line the path. We found all the camps 
 occupied by large companies of Biheans on the home journey, who 
 
so Bihc and Garenganze. [Oct. 
 
 are waiting for their numbers to be swelled by others of their 
 tribe coming out. These Biheans are far too shrewd to venture 
 out on the road save in great companies, fearing plunder by the way. 
 Here we rest several days. 
 
 5///. — We had our three huts built away from the babel of the camp 
 in a beautiful secluded part of the forest, and there was a sweetness 
 inexpressible about the peaceful quiet all around us, on awakening 
 this morning. We visited the queen with our tribute of forty-eight 
 yards of assorted cloth. The shady ombala trees were reached after 
 a steep ascent, and we had not long to wait ere the chiefess walked 
 into the enclosure where we were sitting, with a stately air, and 
 seated herself some ten yards off. Our interview was very short, but 
 extremely satisfactory, and we left with good impressions of the 
 trim and neat lady who looked, every inch of her, mistress of 
 the country — dressed, if I remember rightly, after the manner of 
 the head women generally, /.t'., with matted hair, numbers of anklets, 
 armlets, arfd bangles on the feet and arms, and almost every finger 
 covered with brass and copper rings. 
 
 1 1 //!.— This morning we got off rather late on the last stage of our long 
 journey. We marched through the ombala, and then entered upon a 
 lovely country with dozens of villages all around. It will be doubtless 
 upon the east side of the ombala that any station will be built by 
 those following. Crossing a flat, grassy plain to-day we saw, quite 
 near by, the hills on the other side of the Zambesi river. Camped at 
 Kayamba's, a son of the queen. For thirty-two yards' tribute re- 
 ceived a nice pig and meal. Rain came down in sheets all the 
 afternoon. 
 
 12th. — We had a lovely journey to-day through a thickly-wooded 
 country, and camped at Kapenda^s, where there is a colony of 
 real Lunda-speaking people, who, however, are tributary to Nana 
 Kandundu. To look at one of Livingstone's maps and see the great 
 expanse of country covered by the name of "Muate Yanvo," king 
 of the Lundas, and then to look for the equivalent to that name 
 in Central Africa to-day, is to be filled with wonder and surprise. 
 Kangombe has for the present completely shattered the old-time 
 power of the Lunda tribe, Muate Yanvo's head having been cut 
 off! His son, 1 hear, has gone to Loanda to learn the wisdom 
 of *the whites, and one day he is coming back again to re-take 
 the old Lunda dominions, and drive out Lovale intruders. Do I, 
 a pilgrim journeying through, seek to know the " wherefore " of 
 these things? -Then doth my King make answer from His throne : 
 " I will overturn, overturn, overturn it ... . until He come whose 
 ,^ ■ right it is." (Ezekiel xxi. 27.) Know, therefore, O kings of the earth, 
 'V-^;, that God "plitteth down one, and setteth up another." (Psalm 
 
1890. Fear of Evil Spirits. 51 
 
 Ixxv. 7.) '■^ Sic transit gloria ininidi .'" Tribute, twelve yards ; return 
 gift, two fowls and meal. 
 
 13/A. — Crossed the good-sized stream at the bottom of the slope, 
 upon which our camp was built, and marched through the chiefs 
 village, where he was waiting for us. Their good-bye was very 
 thorough, the parting salutation being something not unlike our own, 
 only each finger-tip met the other, then a prolonged hand-clapping 
 ensued. 
 
 i^th. — Rain came down all night in torrents, which made the 
 ground quite soft for marching this morning. To-day we sighted, 
 away to the south, the Zambesi hills in faint outline ; and about mid- 
 day crossed the Luachi river, which empties itself into the Zambesi. 
 Towards the close of the journey the country presented somewhat 
 undulating features. Without doubt, as has been already remarked, 
 these Va-lunda are a religious folk. Neatly built little spirit huts, 
 carefully thatched, and containing a cooking-pot and seat within, are 
 often met in a day's march; the other evidences being numerous 
 clearings by the wayside, several feet wide, which form avenues lead- 
 ing up to either a spirit hut, large tree, or ant hill, upon the pinnacle 
 of which latter the spirit is presumed to perch. Alas ! all such things 
 are only heart-saddening to God's witness passing by, and are only so 
 many "requests for prayer," built by the way for him. Oh! saints 
 at home, how long will ye take to learn the truth, that the night is 
 dark, dark, and dreary out here? Camped at Kayala. Six yards 
 tribute. 
 
 i6th. — A grand march to-day, under a sky black with clouds, the 
 obscured sun making the atmosphere beautifully cool. Towards noon 
 it is steaming hot, and our garb on reaching camp is usually of the 
 airiest order, i.e., flannel shirt and trousers. Started to day with the 
 same ridge of hills far to the south, and after two hours' good travel- 
 ling reached the broad Lutikina river. There was no bridge, so that 
 it had to be forded hard by the rapids. You would have applauded 
 the army of little youngsters struggling through the rushing water, 
 with load on head, now and then making a clutch at some big brother, 
 when the flow threatened to carry them off. Passed two little Va- 
 lunda colonies to-day, both being as yet just the beginning of things. 
 The chief of the second, though he permitted our tipoias to pass, 
 summoned up courage enough to stop the headmen bringing up the 
 rear, and ask for tribute. Camped at Caiiiangala. The chief had a 
 fine bearing, and comes of the Muate-Vanvo stock. He told a sad, 
 sad tale of Kangombe's late doings, and how he had been stripped of 
 all he formerly had. Eight yards tribute, and in return the chief 
 asked us to take a poor man's present of a large fowl and a hamper 
 of manioc. 
 
52 Bike and Garenganze. [Oct. 
 
 17///. — The new moon brought, as faithfully predicted by the old 
 sekulos, good weather, and to-day, under a summer sky, we had a 
 glorious journey. Camped at Caneka-ca-Lunda. Tribute four yards, 
 really payment for camp lodgings. 
 
 THE ZAMBESI RIVER. 
 
 18///. — To-day we had a characteristically short journey of two 
 hours, before starting on our long strides through the remaining part 
 of the Lunda country. Our early arrival in camp afforded an oppor- 
 tunity for Mr. Lane and me to start on a short expedition to the 
 Zambesi river, some 10 miles or so off. We steered due south, and 
 struck the great river at a spot where it was broad and broke into 
 falls. On either bank grew great lordly trees, thick with foliage, 
 spreading their drooping branches over the river, and at some parts, 
 where these are absent, tall waving grass abounds. We walked along 
 the bank for some distance below the falls, and here and there, at 
 breaks in the dense foliage, got some lovely glimpses of the river lying 
 perfectly still. Returning to the rapids, we spied on the opposite 
 bank one or two black heads, peering through the long grass, which 
 very promptly disappeared the moment one of our men shouted out 
 a greeting. These black heads, however, with many more soon 
 appeared on the scene, and ventured out into the open ; and as no 
 talking could be carried on over the rushing water, some of our men 
 crossed to assure the natives that we had not come to seize them, but 
 only to see their big river. They were assured, and came over one 
 by one in a wary sort of way, old and young men leading the way, 
 women and young children following. Food soon made its appear- 
 ance, and the men set to fire-lighting, and roasting ombowe for us. 
 We were able to purchase some manioc, a young wild hog, killed 
 that day, and two fowls ; then a bath, of a kind, in the famous waters, 
 brought our happy little Saturday afternoon pic-nic to a close. We 
 bade our Lunda friends " good-bye," after having tried, through our 
 men, to tell them of the love of God. We are probably the first white 
 men who ever stood on that particular spot on the banks of the Zam- 
 besi river. 
 
 A touchingly pathetic incident came under our notice to-day, which 
 shows that at least amongst these wild Lundas the family bond is 
 loved dearly. During our stay at Nana Kandundu, our blackguard 
 Biheans were carrying on in secret their infamous traffic in slaves, 
 and among the purchases was one pretty young girl about ten years 
 of age. Poor little soul ! I used to watch her brooding over her ill- 
 fortune, with as touchingly sad an expression on her face as it was 
 possible for face to assume. Her history, hitherto unknown to her 
 owner, came to light to-day. It appears that in the Lovale raids she 
 
1 890.] A Touch of Natural Ajfection. 53 
 
 had been carried off from her home, which is somewhere on the other 
 side of the Zambesi, near where we visited. At our last camp one of 
 the Lunda visitors recognized in her the daughter of his friend, and 
 he at once bore the news to her father, who crossed the Zambesi to- 
 day, and redeemed her with two slaves, twelve fowls, and a gun. He 
 was only a poor man, but the shrewd Bih^an had no mercy on him. 
 While the redemption price was being struck, the girl hugged her 
 father, sobbing, and the father caressed her assuringly, saying, "Never 
 mind, my child, although I have to borrow, I will have you home with 
 me to-day." Camp, Caneka Oovitida. 
 
 i^th — Along day's journey— alas ! too long for some of the little 
 ones who, towards the close, are simply pushed along from behind, 
 they, the while, setting up a plaintive crying. It is, to me, the greatest 
 marvel how the limbs of the army of youngsters hold out. Caravan 
 pace is generally a swinging one, with the result that the younger 
 members of it have got to pretty nigh run all the time, for drop behind 
 they dare not, nor do they feel inclined to, after the frightful stories 
 with which their minds are imbued by their seniors. Camp, Na 
 Kapoiio. 
 
 20th. — A day of hard travelling through a very thick country ; quite 
 a number of good-sized streams crossed our path, flowing Zambesi- 
 wards. Lining the path for many miles were trees of wild fruit, real 
 edible fruit. We had three different varieties, all, I fancy, of the 
 plum family, and very delicious they were to hungry men. Camp, 
 Valima. 
 
 2\st. — Remained in camp to-day on account of one of the carriers, 
 who had a very bad leg, and was unable to move. He accuses some 
 unknown carrier of having bewitched him, and asserts most seriously 
 that it is because the evil spirit is in his leg that it is swollen. Went 
 off to-day with Mr. Thompson on a brief visit to the Zambesi again, 
 which has been running parallel with our path since the i8th. Found 
 the river only about half its width thirty-five miles or so further up. 
 We found two little villages on the north bank, and on going into the 
 smaller of the two were surprised to see the wife of one of our head- 
 men sitting with a group of villagers round her, seemingly on intimate 
 terms. She told us touchingly that this was her native village, and 
 with tears in her eyes said, pointing to a nice-looking old woman, 
 " And there is my mother." Long ago she had been bought as a slave 
 and taken to Bihd, where she became one of the wives of her owner, 
 but these years had not erased home memories, nor, I am sure, made 
 her kinsfolk less dear. Returned in the afternoon with a good supply 
 of wild honey, which abounds in the woods ; all the natives have to 
 do to get it is to listen for the cry of the honeybird and make for the 
 tree it leads them to. We have in our caravan an old sekulo, who 
 
54 5//// and Garcnganf:e. [Oct. 
 
 wears an old tile hat that has seen the gloss of better clays, and who 
 fulfils the office of camp crier. It is only on important occasions that 
 his wonderful vocal powers are brought into requisition, but when he 
 does rise and give his preliminary roar to summon attention, the 
 great babel of a noise going on instantly ceases, and a respectful 
 silence reigns. Last night he orated for a long time on the bewitching 
 business, and finally exhorted each one to help and not to kill his 
 fellow by witchcraft. When an edict goes forth to the caravan it is 
 through his lips. 
 
 22nd. — Marched to-day for Olohose, which bears the formidable 
 name of " The Lions," and slept within a thick stockade, the work of 
 much labour by our men. The Biheans made the old assertions, 
 recorded in page 165 of Garengatise, about natives being seized while 
 asleep and carried off by lions. We laughed, and the sleep which 
 followed was undisturbed by roaring forest monarchs in the distance. 
 I saw to-day numbers of ordinary earth-worms crawling across our 
 path after the rains. I have not Professor Drummond's book beside 
 me, but can almost trust myself in the statement that therein he says 
 that in Central Africa there are no earth-worms., ants being the 
 substitute. Be it known that both the latter and former are to be 
 found, as testify these eyes of mine. 
 
 lyd. — To-day after being only half-an-hour on the march we 
 crossed the track of a large elephant, and a little further on encountered 
 the fresh spoor of a troop of buffaloes. I measured one footprint of 
 the former in the soft sand with my stick, and found it to be from the 
 round toe marks to the heel about 2 ft. 3 ins. Of course, make 
 deductions for the soft sand. Swam across the Lukoleshe river, 
 owing to the fine bridge being broken. The flow was north, which 
 tells the tale that we have left the last feeders of the Zambesi behind. 
 Camp, Yafwa. 
 
 IN THE UPPER CONGO BASIN. 
 
 24^//. — A long journey to-day through a lovely country. Crossed 
 three good-sized streams flowing north. The country gets thicker 
 and more tropical-looking the further we travel east. Camped some 
 six miles from the Luwuri river ; and had not been long in camp, 
 when we were joined by a company of Msidi's young men going back 
 to their country. 
 
 i^th. — After an hour's good marching reached the Luwuri river, 
 which we found a fine broad stream, fairly deep, and flowing north. 
 I swam across. Although some of these streams flow at a rate so 
 rapid as to forbid the strongest of men stemming them, yet it is a very 
 easy matter, walking up the bank a bit and breaking a way through 
 the brushwood, to make the other side, but one is carried down pretty 
 considerably by the flow. Two hours' journey brought us to Kapa, a 
 
1 890.] Redeeming a Baby Slave. 55 
 
 small place as far as people and villages are concerned, but immensely 
 important as a junction. The traveller is confronted with two ordinary- 
 little paths, a foot wide, and has to choose between the one going 
 north-east to the great Samba and Luba countries, and that going 
 east to the Garenganze. It is a standing marvel how the most ordinary 
 of Biheans can manage his way through these strange countries. 
 Often one finds himself at a standstill before perhaps four different 
 paths, and in such a dilemma the safe rule is not to pose as the 
 officious white man, but humbly to plead guilty to not having the 
 bump of locality and follow the Bihean — he can smell his way ! 
 
 ibth and 2'jth. — Two days of rest in camp. We are now in the 
 Samba country. Large companies of finely-built men marched through 
 our camp, and waited awhile en route, as war is going on up country. 
 Each man wore a red feather on his head, and was armed with a 
 surprisingly good flint-lock gun ; others (in the minority), not so 
 fortunate, had the more primitive bow with a cjuiver of arrows. At 
 this place one or two of our men gave in, and refused to go on. One 
 of these, a reckless, cruel fellow, had a tiny little baby girl slave, whom 
 he bought at Nana Kandundu — such a pretty little thing ! She was 
 only a baby, and of course could not walk, which latterly made her a 
 drag on him ; and so the fate looming ahead for that poor harmless 
 little soul seemed in every probability to be a cruel death at the hands 
 of her owner. An ugly clubbing of the head, a pitch into the bush, 
 and she would be left for dead ! Yes, Biheans can boast of doing 
 these things. Rescue her, I realized 1 j/iiist, and the only means open 
 to me was her redemption, which was effected for some thirty -two 
 yards ; and here I was, before I quite realized it, with a little child 
 under my care to instruct " in the way" that she should go. May God 
 guide her feet into the " way of peace ! " 
 
 28//;. — A long day's journey of eight hours on the road. One hour's 
 good marching down a gentle decline brought us to the broad Lufupa 
 river, along the banks of which we saw some lovely palm trees. The 
 bridge was broken, and we were compelled to fritter away two good 
 hours renovating it. This crossed, we journeyed on for over three 
 hours till we reached the Luluwa river, not many yards beyond which 
 we camped. 
 
 2()th. — Towards the close of to-day's journey we entered upon the 
 traversing of the two bare arid flats, known as the " Zebra plains " 
 {Eyana Uolongolo). The latter of the two (upon the east border of 
 which we camped) proved indeed that the title was no misnomer, for 
 there, sporting in the sunshine, was a large troop of the lovely stripe- 
 backed creatures, just outside of rifle range, which made the sight all 
 the moi'e tantalizing. 
 
 30///. — To-day's journey was a most toilsome affair, the old sandy 
 
56 Bih^ and Garenganze. [Nov 
 
 path often disappearing before one of sharp stones. Passed within 
 stone-throw of the great Miambo copper mines, the first of which 
 rises on the right, a huge, long-stretching, mass of rock, riddled 
 on all sides with the marks of the excavations which have been 
 carried on by natives for years. This mass looks like a lot of 
 irregular boulders all huddled together, and there is many a 
 counterpart of such to be found among the weather-beaten crags 
 of the west coast of Scotland, excepting, of course, the greenish 
 colour of the stone, that sure indication of copper. About half- 
 an-hour beyond this first mine a long, high ridge of rock, similar 
 in nature and appearance, rose almost at the side of our path, and 
 ran on in that direction for a long distance. Strange enough, there 
 are no villages in the vicinity, and natives, I am told, come long 
 distances to dig for the metal, which they carry to their villages 
 for smelting.* Camp, Miambo. 
 
 THE LUALABA RIVER. 
 
 November \st. — The path from our camp this morning was a 
 gentle slope upwards for about an hour, then along a level hill-top, 
 upon which grew the sharp cactus. We had not been on the easy 
 descent many minutes when the trees, which hedged in our path 
 on all sides, disappeared, and we were ushered into full view of 
 the beautiful Lualaba valley, stretching away before us for miles, 
 until met by the great range of mountains rising up on the Garen- 
 ganze side of the river in faint outline of blue against the sky. It 
 made one's heart beat faster, and one's joy brim over, just to behold 
 that long looked-for sight ! On reaching the glorious-looking river, 
 bounded on all sides with lovely vegetation, we made at once for 
 the ferry, all hoping that a crossing would be effected to-day, but 
 we found a crusty old gentleman there, who would not hear of it. 
 " No, no, you must camp on this side to-day," said he ; and this 
 we were compelled to do, despite the fact that no food could be 
 bought, and our caravan was well-nigh dropping with hunger. In 
 the evening Mr. Thompson and I went down with our guns to the 
 river's bank, in the hope of getting a shot ; and we must have strolled 
 along it several miles without seeing anything. Retracing our steps 
 to camp, we had only left the river's bank soine hundred yards or 
 so behind when a great roar in the river, succeeded by a noise of 
 
 * The Central African copper smelters that inhabit these parts belong to a 
 section of the great Luba tribe. They cast the copper when smelted in the 
 form of the St. Andrew's cross, and it is of so good a quality that it can be 
 drawn into wire as fine as horse hair. They preserve great secrecy in the 
 working of their craft, and mining operations are only performed at certain 
 seasons of the year. — F. S.A. 
 
1890.] N earing an African Home. 57 
 
 splashing, not unlike what a big paddle steamer makes, turned us 
 back. Unfortunately there was no moon, and it took us all our 
 time to see in the thick darkness the huge hippopotamus that had 
 been the cause of all this noise. The river was very broad, and 
 the hippopotamus, doubtless scared by the noise of our feet breaking 
 the dry grass, crossed to the other side, and although we lay in wait 
 for him fully an hour, return he did not. 
 
 ■2nd. — Early this morning we marched down to Kazembe's village, 
 which has been very suggestively removed to tJiis side of the river, 
 and had a long, trying time with a young man who is the present 
 Kazembe. Crossing the Lualaba was a long day's business, and 
 dreary, soul-withering work. 
 
 yd to 6th. — These four days were spent covering the ground 
 between the Lualaba river and Molenga^s. On the 4th we reached 
 Moela^s, and, contrary to expectations, found no people there. We 
 gave to each carrier at that place one yard of cloth. On the 5th 
 we camped at Ongongo, and from that place sent on to Molenga's 
 a herald of our approach, bearing our present of 24 yards of cloth 
 to the chief. There are numbers of villages all around Molenga's, 
 and the supply of food is abundant. We rested there two days, 
 during which we had a visit from the young chief ; indeed, he is 
 only a boy, and as yet is not the bearer of very much " ulamba " 
 (majesty). He was very importunate in his request for a European 
 rig-out — hat, shoes, jacket, and trousers, and it took a long time 
 to please his wandering fancy. To be brief, I do not think this lad is 
 at all fit to rule, and " Ickabod" may be written over the ombala of 
 Molenga. 
 
 GARENGANZE REACHED. 
 
 7/A and Zth. — Passed the first of these days in the woods, where 
 we heard that Mr. Swan was waiting for us at to-morrow's camp. (I 
 omitted to state that we dispatched a messenger to our brethren 
 immediately on crossing the Lualaba river, bearing all letters, etc. ; 
 hence Mr. Swan's coming to meet us.) On the 8th we crossed 
 the Lukurwe river, and camped at Kanikili, a village garrisoned by 
 a number of the king's wives. Here we found, not Mr. Swan, bu 
 a letter of his telling us that he had come there yesterday to welcome 
 us to the country in the Lord's name, but that while awaiting our 
 arrival he had received an urgent call from Msidi, asking him to 
 come back at once, as a white man had arrived from the east coast, 
 and was firing bullets in his villages. Mr. Swan further asked me to 
 come right on to the village the next day to arrange about paying the 
 men, etc., the other brethren remaining with the caravan at Candenda 
 that night. Accordingly I made an early start, and after a good long 
 day's journey a turn in the path revealed — thrice golden sight ! — 
 
 E 
 
58 BiJic and Garejiganze. [Nov. 
 
 the little village of God's witnesses in this dark land ! " Don't you 
 see it ? " queried my Biheans quite excitedly, and indeed I scarcely 
 did for tears, blinding tears, at the thought of God's goodness in 
 guiding us so far, so tenderly and so well. When about half a mile 
 from the village I fired the pre-arranged signal of five guns. A 
 nearer approach revealed a Union Jack fluttering in the breeze, and 1 
 had not reached the bottom of the hill, upon which the village is 
 built, when my tipoia was surrounded by a crowd of excited young 
 men and boys, several of whom were frantic with delight, firing 
 salute after salute with blank cartridges. Then, deep, deep joy ! 
 Br. Swan came down in a tipoia, and met me coming up the hill, 
 Glorious recompense that — to meet a child of God, hitherto unknown, 
 in these dark habitations of cruelty ! Arriving at the village I met 
 dear Br. Faulknor, looking so ghastly pale, and quite lame on one of 
 his feet. He was really just emerging from what must have been 
 a long, painful illness. Then I turned to the right to behold a most 
 important personage, bedecked with lots of calico, and sitting in state 
 in a little green tent. Yes, it was the much-heard-of MsiDl — really 
 he ! He received me most graciously and kindly, and after hand- 
 shakes were over he asked me to sit on his right hand. The old man 
 can speak in a wonderfully kind tone, so much so that you could 
 scarcely believe he could (as alas ! alas ! he often does), when 
 roused, order in cruel tones the death of one or more of his subjects 
 for light offences. Then came queries about my other two brethren, 
 and when he was told that they were at Candenda, not far off, he 
 turned to one of his men, " Son of the dust, go and bring them ! " 
 It was not long before they put in an appearance, to receive an 
 equally hearty welcome. I need hardly say that on the old principle 
 of " Where the king is there is the court," there was a large crowd of 
 his people with him, which gave the little village a busy appearance. 
 Then, when all were gone, and the evening had come, we had the 
 first of those long talks all together, made up pretty much of 
 question answering and interesting note comparing. Then what 
 notes of praise were ours, mutually extolling the goodness of the 
 Lord ! And as, hand in hand, we surrounded the throne of grace, 
 how we could just tell our King with truth that, " If it had not 
 been the Lord who was on our side ... if it had not been the Lord 
 who was on our side, when men rose up against us, then had they 
 swallowed us up quick. Blessed be the Lord, who hath not given us 
 a prey to their teeth." " And let all the people " (those known to us 
 at home) " say Amen ! " 
 
 The next important event linked with our arrival was our visit 
 to the chief. Of course we were well dressed (starched collars, be it 
 known ! ) and bore a handsome present to his Majesty. We found 
 him in the village of Mahanga {alias Queen Chitompa, the chief's 
 
1890.] Tokens of MsidVs Cruelty. 59 
 
 favourite wife), but, oh ! what a sickening feehng came over one 
 to see nearly every stick that formed that large stockade topped with 
 a human skull ! And not only so, but there were several high 
 tables of a rude sort built here and there for no other purpose than to 
 be receptacles for heaps of skulls. The very trees, too, had the same 
 ghastly decoration, hung up like hats on pegs, on every available 
 arm ! Going into this huge village at the main entrance, we were 
 still more disgusted to see, not a bleached white skull, but a human 
 head, which must have been cut off only a few days, and which 
 was sending forth an abominable stench — ugh ! the sight was 
 revolting. We found the chief sitting under the verandah of the 
 queen's large house, and on his right sat two Arabs, busy at 
 work, writing their strange hieroglyphics. The verandah was 
 raised, and on the ground, seated closely together, was a huge crowd 
 of men, before whom, however, were seated side by side, Msidi's 
 three chief executioners, with their professional hatchets, awaiting 
 orders. After a little talking we retired into the house, at Msidi's 
 request, to give our present, and robe him in a most costly Indian 
 silk robe and silk turban. The old man was immensely pleased ; 
 several of his chief men being called in to admire the garment, 
 but the chief refused to show himself to the crowd generally. We 
 sang numbers of hymns to their great enjoyment, after which food 
 was brought us. After having spent several hours with him, we 
 returned with strangely mixed feelings of the man who could be 
 so kind to us, and yet so harsh and cruel to his subjects. He 
 will scarcely tolerate the word of the Lord spoken to him, and yet in 
 the light of eternal realities looming ahead, spoken it must be. To do 
 this, grace, sterling grace, is necessary. Oh for that holy grit 
 and tenacity of purpose which shall unswervingly do the will of 
 God ! " Be wise as serpents, yet harmless as doves "—how necessary ! 
 Yet this weak, cringing flesh, how desirous it is to be all tact, 
 and all diplomacy, and how recalcitrant it is against bold, fearless 
 testimony in the Spirit ! 
 
 Since that first visit I have been down with Br. Swan several times 
 to see the chief ; he is quite a bird of passage, and the last time I saw 
 him was a good distance off at Munema. There was a great 
 gathering that day of wives and warriors to go through the ceremony 
 of doing homage to the departed spirit of Molenga. The late 
 Molenga's principal chattels, consisting of old weapons (spears, 
 poisoned arrows, old percussion-cap gun, etc., etc.), were placed 
 on the ground, around which gathered Msidi's young Molenga, and a 
 number of the former's wives, Mr. Msidi, of course, in the chair. 
 Beer was brought, and the young Molenga, as his father's successor, 
 rose, filled a mug with beer, and having taken a huge mouthful 
 he approached Msidi, and solemnly squirted the contents of his 
 
6o BiJie and Garenganze. [Nov. 
 
 mouth full on that monarch's face. This he did several times, 
 the wives also receiving a good share ; then Msidi retaliated, and no 
 doubt the old man's squirting powers are good ! Mahanga did 
 likewise ; and the deceased's weapons of war having received a good 
 share of the beer the ceremony was in a way closed, although to 
 the outer ring it was really just beginning, and the beer drinking 
 was proceeded with. During all this squirting business there was not 
 a little merriment going on. Soleuuiity there was none ; perhaps the 
 chief had a demeanour the nearest approach to solemn of any present 
 Of course, his dignity did not admit much of a laugh with the others. 
 And now let me close with a few concluding notes. First, the 
 backward look one takes over the past journey is in many 
 respects blessed, deeply blessed. Oh, the favour granted from 
 the Lord on high ! Think of the measure of health granted unto 
 us ! Personally, perhaps three slight touches of fever were all I 
 was troubled with the whole journey, and these I noticed followed the 
 drinking of bad water. Then, how much have we to praise for, when 
 we reflect on the favour granted us in the sight of all the chiefs 
 en route ? We were poor, you know, and therefore could not be 
 lavish with our presents, and yet we have left behind us a "white 
 path" (as our men say) which we could traverse to-morrow again. 
 
 AFRICAN DESPOTS. 
 
 Mr. Crawford's interesting diary thus closes with the safe 
 arrival of Messrs. H. Thompson, Lane, and himself in Garenganze, 
 and their joyful welcome by Messrs. Swan and Faulknor, with 
 whom they were housed in the little mission station at Bunkeya, 
 under the sway of the great chief of that country. The trials of the 
 long journey were now over, but they were confronted with fresh 
 difficulties, which might be summed up in one word — Msidi. 
 
 African despots, such as Msidi of the Garenganze, Lobengula 
 of the Matebele, Liwanika of the Barotsi, have no ancient 
 hereditary claims to their extensive empires ; but their power has 
 to be retained by the same brute force by which they or their 
 immediate predecessors obtained it. And, so far as I can find 
 out, these empires had their beginnings about the time of the 
 introduction of guns and powder into Africa. Any chiefs who 
 were able in those days to get a monopoly of the trade in arms 
 could carve out for themselves enormous kingdoms. Lobengula 
 is perhaps an exception to this rule, his father, Mosilikatse, having 
 conquered the Makalaka and Mashona tribes with the spear. But 
 in Central Africa, so long as the spear and bow were the only 
 
1890.] The Influence of Great CJiicfs. 61 
 
 weapons, the balance of power seems to have been fairly well 
 maintained between the small tribal chiefs. 
 
 Now that the power of these African despots is being curtailed 
 by European rule, it is well to remember that they have indirectly 
 played an important part in the opening up of the interior of Africa. 
 
 Dr. Livingstone was led to undertake his journey to the 
 Zambesi through hearing that Sebituane with his Makololo 
 followers had marched northwards from the Batlaping country 
 (now part of Cape Colony), and had established himself in the 
 Barotsi Valley. Sebituane soon brought the tribes all around 
 under his sway, and by the aid of this great chief Dr. Livingstone 
 was able to obtain boats to ascend the Zambesi. He also provided 
 carriers, and ivory for the purchase of goods ; and Livingstone was 
 encouraged to make his first great journey from the Zambesi river 
 to St. Paul de Loanda in 1854. 
 
 The great African chiefs have generally invited and welcomed 
 missionaries into their countries, perhaps with the idea of making 
 friends with the white man, from whom powder and guns might 
 be obtained, but they have jealously watched against any possi- 
 bility of their own influence being weakened by that of the 
 missionary. For forty years missionaries laboured in the Matebele 
 country without apparent fruit, simply because Lobengula quickly 
 called to his capital Gubulowayo {i.e. " the killing place "), and 
 disposed of, any of his people who seemed to come under the 
 influence of the missionaries' teaching. 
 
 In the Garenganze, Msidi from the beginning protected and 
 befriended us, so that while we laboured at the language of the 
 people, and then went about from village to village telling our 
 story for the first time, our lives were " quiet and peaceable." 
 Mr. Swan and I were, however, repeatedly apprised of this, that 
 though Msidi allowed us a measure of liberty, he had no intention 
 of giving his people one inch of it. And he seemed to take 
 pleasure in proving to us that our presence in his country put him 
 under no restraint. In order to rule over so many tribes, he had 
 to make his name a terror, and perhaps only by comparing him 
 with other African despots are we able to discover his virtues. I 
 would give my testimony as to his having an uncommonly kind 
 side to his cruel heart, and that with all his rapacity and greed 
 he was at times lavishly generous. 
 
CHAPTER VII. 
 
 ^Ijrcc Years in (f^mnqan}t—)KSS to )m). 
 
 WE must now go back to February, 1888, when, after 
 three months of their company, I left Messrs. Swan 
 and Faulknor at Msidi's capital for a visit to England for health's 
 sake, giving them the promise of my return to Africa after six 
 months. The story of their sojourn in Garenganze must be 
 briefly told. 
 
 Mr. Swan applied himself to the task of mastering the Luba 
 language, which is the vernacular of the " common people," 
 while Mr. Faulknor took charge of the little family of waifs 
 and outcasts that had been gathered into our village. Several 
 of those children were suffering from a loathsome disease called 
 7nmwno, and Mr. Faulknor dressed their sores daily. At an 
 unguarded moment, through some cut or jigger sore, he became 
 inoculated with the poison of this disease. He had got down 
 in health owing to the heavy journey from Nana Kandundu, 
 and after a while he was covered with sores, literally "from 
 the sole of the foot even unto the head." Mr. Swan was 
 compelled to become nurse to his afflicted brother, in addition 
 to toiling at his Luba vocabulary, providing food for the eight 
 children, conducting a daily school, and visiting the villages 
 around the capital. Occasionally the scarcity of provisions 
 compelled him to take his gun and go off for some days in 
 search of game, in order to replenish their larder, and during 
 these enterprises he was preserved in the midst of many dangers. 
 
 Under date of May 17th, 1889, Mr. Swan writes : 
 
 Twenty months have passed since we last heard from or of the 
 civilized world. What a treat it will be to hear from loved ones 
 and of the Lord's work ! I have read all the old copies of Echoes 
 of Service, many of them two and three times. When sitting reading 
 of the good work in Spain, Italy, Russia, India, and other places, 
 
April, 1889.] Work amongst Children. 63 
 
 my heart has been greatly rejoiced, and I have ahnost imagined 
 myself present with the Lord's people. May He grant that we 
 may soon have the joy of seeing " fruit " in the Garenganze. The 
 sowing time is often very trying, and I find myself sowing in tears. 
 Oh, to be content to go joyfully on, even if the Lord does not 
 show us much result from our labours ! The glorious time is coming 
 when " he that soweth and he that reapeth shall rejoice together." 
 
 Some time ago I had a quiet talk with one of the children about 
 his soul, and my heart rejoiced greatly to hear him say he was 
 trusting in Jesus. I have long noticed little changes in his ways 
 which led me to think the Lord was dealing with him. May the 
 Lord make it clearly manifest. 
 
 We are very much troubled with snakes and scorpions just now. 
 One of our boys was stung by one of the latter a week ago. One 
 night last month, about two a.m., I heard something fall at my side, 
 and, on striking a light, found a snake, between three and four 
 feet long, which had fallen from the roof I killed it with a stick. 
 On the loth inst. Br. Faulknor called me early to come and kill 
 another. I ran out at once, and soon had pinned it to the ground 
 with a spear. It was about the thickness of a man's arm. On the 
 same day, having got through my outside work, I was sitting reading 
 in Br. Arnot's room, with one of the boys cooking beans at the fire, 
 when he suddenly leaped up and ran out crying ^^Ngana" (" Sir"). I 
 looked round to see the cause of his fright, and saw the tail of a 
 snake hanging down between the ceiling (of mats) and the wall. I 
 tried to spear it, but failed. It then made its way up the rafters to 
 the top of the house, and I lost sight of it. Going into the next room, 
 which is not ceiled, I caught sight of it again, and, caUing for my 
 gun, sent a ball through its body about three feet from the tail. It 
 dropped on the mats, and I fired again, cutting it nearly in two at the 
 middle. We then pulled down the mats, and when it fell, yet alive, I 
 speared it. It was about nine feet long. 
 
 The children continue to make good progress in the school, and 
 encourage us much by their attention at the meetings. I have begun 
 morning prayer with them, and often experience a sweet sense of the 
 Lord's presence. I have attempted two simple hymns in the Luba 
 dialect, and the children delight to sing them. It is very precious 
 at times to hear them, when alone, singing gospel truths ; and I have 
 great faith that, if they once become fully acquainted with the words 
 and tunes, they will never forget them. 
 
 Br. Faulknor is still sick with miinono, but the sores are now 
 principally confined to his feet ; he keeps very weak and helpless. 
 With the exception of a slight fever now and then, I continue to 
 enjoy fair health. 
 
64 Bihe and Garenganze. [May, 
 
 FRIENDLINESS OF MSIDI. 
 
 Msidi, you will be glad to hear, has, up to the present, been very 
 friendly towards us. On the 7th of April a messenger arrived in great 
 haste, saying that the chief was on the road up to visit his white men. 
 About twenty minutes afterwards he came with five of his wives and 
 about forty attendants. For long he had been saying he intended 
 to visit us, and, the night before, having dreamed he was at our village, 
 he thought that was a sign he ought to come. We made them as 
 comfortable as wc possibly could, and entertained them according 
 to our ability. After partaking of a good meal I was not a little 
 surprised when he intimated that he would like to stay all night. Of 
 course I could not say no, so I set about making arrangements at 
 once. I gave up my bed and bedroom to him ; four wives slept in 
 the store-room, and five of his young men and myself slept in the 
 kitchen. The children's house was also filled, and many slept outside 
 under the verandah. I need scarcely say there was very little sleep 
 for me ; I was afraid his people might feel inclined to help themselves 
 to some of our little stock, but having committed the matter to the 
 Lord, I lay down to try and get a little rest. Glad was I when 
 the morning came and I was able to get the house emptied. Msidi 
 enjoyed a good breakfast of chicken and mush, and about 10 a.m. 
 called for his tipoia and returned to his village. Br. Faulknor being 
 unable to give me a helping hand with this large family, the enter- 
 taining of them was left to me, and, as the result, for some time 
 afterwards I was left with a racking headache. 
 
 Our stock of medicines took Msidi's eye at once. When he saw 
 the bottles he exclaimed '■'■ Kapali vale okiifal" ("No more death.") 
 They have great faith in our medicines, and, as I have often said, 
 a qualified medical man would find a grand field for labour here. 
 May God grant that this good feeling may be continued, and that we 
 may have grace to make the best of the opportunity to gather souls to 
 Himself by making known His truth. 
 
 The chief still continues his ghastly work of putting his people 
 to death. I am sick at heart hearing of this one or the other being 
 executed, some charged with witchcraft, others with interfering with 
 his wives. Only a few days ago two were tied up, charged with the 
 latter crime ; one was put to death, and the other mutilated in a 
 shocking way. I might mention scores upon scores of cases ; every 
 few days these executions take place, but it would not be to your 
 profit to read about them, neither is it good for me to dwell upon 
 them. A formal execution I have never seen, but one of the chief's 
 young men explained to me the whole affair. However, I refrain, as 
 it is most sickening to hear of men being guilty of such barbarism. 
 
1889.] Cait.se of the Chief's Illness. 65 
 
 Msidi has been sick for some time, and I have twice been called at 
 night to visit him. To-day I hear that five men have been tied up, 
 charged with causing his sickness. Things are rather unsettled in the 
 country just now, and we plead for your prayers that peace may 
 be maintained. Some time ago a young girl was brought to this 
 country, and Msidi said she should become his wife, and sent her 
 to Kagoma's village until she was older. About a month ago he sent 
 for her, and ever since he has been ill. He says this girl has caused 
 his sickness, and as she is too young to know anything about fetish, 
 Kagoma must have taught her. Having assembled his head-men, he 
 proposed that Kagoma should immediately be put to death ; but 
 fortunately for Kagoma, who is quite a big man in the country, no one 
 agreed to this. The head-men's refusal to have Kagoma killed has 
 led Msidi to doubt their faithfulness, for he sent me word a few days 
 ago that should any of them come to me for medicine I must refuse 
 to give it, as they wish to kill him. He also states that he cannot 
 take any more of our medicine until he first sees his mulatto wife, her 
 kalaiiia (page), and myself partake of it. Why he should have 
 become suspicious of our giving him anything injurious, or supplying 
 his people with anything to hurt him, I cannot say. It is just another 
 proof that the African missionary must not make too much of the 
 seeming favourableness of chiefs, but trust in the Living God, and 
 then there will be no disappointment. Brethren, pray for us. 
 
 EXTRACTS FROM MR. SWAN'S DIARY. 
 
 May 28M, 1889. — I am thankful to note a marked improvement in 
 Mr. Faulknor's health. He seems much stronger and is gaining flesh. 
 
 3 1 J"/. — At last I have finished my house. As I have no window frames 
 nor glass I must cover the openings with cloth. I return heartfelt 
 thanks to the Lord, who in His great mercy has granted me 
 health and strength while others have been laid aside. 
 
 "June \st. — Having got men I had Br. Faulknor carried down 
 to the chief's. Msidi was very pleased to see him, and requested 
 me to send more medicine. 
 
 ^th. — Two days ago one of our boys ran away, and yesterday 
 I found him at one of the villages. On questioning him as to 
 his reason for going off, I was grieved to hear that he had been 
 using bad language to his fellows, and as they threatened to tell 
 me, he ran away. Instead of punishing him I called the children 
 together and sought to show how hateful such conduct was in 
 the sight of God, who had heard all and knew their hearts. 
 
 Walked down to see the chief While with him the traders 
 from Loanda brought their goods, and I was much cast down 
 at seeing the large supplies of guns, powder, etc. What a terrible 
 
66 Bike and Garenganze. [June, 
 
 responsibility rests upon the owners of trading houses at the coast, 
 who supply the necessaries for poor Africans to kill one another ! 
 
 dth. — Yesterday these traders informed the chief that during 
 the night thieves entered their camp, and carried off two bales 
 of cloth. Msidi has called diviners to find the guilty persons, 
 and declares he will put them to death. To-day I visited him ; he is 
 down again with another sick bout. This time he seems very 
 weak and helpless. He has asked me to take him medicine, and says 
 his wife lied when she told me he would not take it. 
 
 NATIVE SUPERSTITIONS. 
 
 1th.- — Found the chief a little brighter. He was sitting, and two 
 of his wives (Mahanga and Nakuruwa), in the midst of a mass 
 of charms such as I have never seen before — gourds, baskets, 
 curious gongs made from lions' skins, spears, idols of various shapes 
 and sizes, sundry wires with pieces of human skin or scalp stuck 
 on them, stools, etc., etc. One of these wires with its ghastly 
 ornaments, he informed me, was given him by his father, Kalasa, 
 when he (Msidi) left his native country beyond Tanganyika, to 
 come to these parts. In the midst of all these I was requested 
 to take a seat by his side. Native beer was brought and spurted 
 over the charms, himself, and his wives. He then requested me 
 to take some into my mouth and spurt over them that they might 
 have the white man's blessing ; but as these charms represented 
 the spirits of the departed, I refused. They next brought a goat 
 as an offering to the spirits. It was laid on a heap of leaves, 
 and its throat was cut. Its inwards were then taken out and carefully 
 examined, the lungs inflated, etc., but all was found perfectly in 
 order, and they seemed very well pleased. (Had anything unusual 
 been noticed it would have been counted an ill omen.) The chief's 
 brother, Likuku, then took some of the blood, and sprinkled it on 
 the chief's forehead and breast. Rings were cut out of the skin, 
 and placed on the fingers of the chief's left-hand, after which the 
 flesh was cut up and divided among those present. In reply to 
 his question, "What do you think of these things?" I answered, 
 " It is all nonsense, for when people die their spirits go to God, 
 who gave them, and do not return." " Ah ! " said he, " that is 
 your wisdom ; this is ours." It is strange that with such a great 
 ado about fetishes, whenever he finds himself a little better, he 
 invariably tells his people that our medicine has done it. Yesterday 
 I took hold of different parts of his body, asking him if he felt 
 any pain, and to-day he declares that God used those touches to 
 make him feel a little better, so that he was able to take a good 
 night's rest ! 
 
1889.] Marriage Ceremony. 67 
 
 \ot]i. — Visited the chief again, and was surprised to find him 
 sitting outside, dressed in European clothes. He explained that 
 during the night he had dreamed he was in Portugal, England, 
 and a few other places, so on rising he had dressed up in European 
 fashion, and told his people he had just returned from the white 
 man's country. All who went to see him, young and old, had to 
 come and shake hands, and bid him welcome back again. When 
 I left he presented me with a large native pot of honey (as much 
 as one man could carry), a tin each of tea, butter, and pig's 
 tongue, which he told me were left here by Ivens and Capello, 
 the Portuguese travellers. He says he feels better, but so far as 
 I can see there is not much improvement. 
 
 Our little sick boy is no better. I had a chicken killed to try 
 to tempt him to eat this morning, but he had only taken a few 
 mouthfuls when he vomited it all again. To-night he was able 
 to eat a little. Poor little fellow ! There is a great change in 
 him. He is usually so full of life and even cheeky with the other 
 boys. But this is all past, and he is quite subdued. 
 
 \oth. — To-day two of the chief's daughters were married, and 
 a third was sent to Kazembe on the Luapula river. These girls 
 have been kept in confinement for about ten days, during which time 
 dancing has been carried on almost continuously at the village. 
 To-day they were dressed up in fancy cloth and paraded through the 
 village on women's shoulders. This over, they sat down alongside 
 their future husbands, the latter as well as the former on women's 
 knees. Two or three speeches were then made, after which Msidi 
 gave them a little fatherly advice, specially charging them not to 
 fall into the habit of smoking. (The women smoke tobacco and 
 hasheesh through water, drawing the smoke into the lungs.) To 
 finish up the proceedings the men went through the dance 
 called Kiito)iiboka. 
 
 TWO years' letters. 
 
 In October, 1889, Mr. Swan thus expresses the joy of 
 himself and his suffering companion on the receipt of letters : 
 
 On the 22nd the many prayers of Br. Faulknor and myself 
 were at last answered by the safe arrival of our mail. It is utterly 
 impossible for us to write and thank the many friends who have 
 written us such encouraging letters. The Lord will fully repay 
 them for all their hearty fellowship, and it gives us much joy to 
 remember them continually before the " throne of grace." 
 
 I am continuing to make fair progress in the languages, and 
 can now speak freely and make our message known to the people. 
 May the Lord keep my heart beating warmly towards Himself; 
 then the people will not be neglected. 
 
68 Bihc and Garenganze. [Oct. 
 
 Let me now add some words regarding Mataya and her son, 
 who were saved from death by our opportune arrival here, an 
 account of which I see on page 225 of Garenganze. It will not 
 only add to your knowledge of the superstitions and cruel ways 
 of the chief and people of this country, but also draw forth fresh 
 prayer and sympathy on their behalf 
 
 MSIDI'S TREATMENT OF AN EMBASSY. 
 
 When Molenga died, Mataya and her son were charged with 
 being implicated in his death, and were both executed (speared), 
 I hear, by Msidi's orders ; so the deliverance we rejoiced in did 
 not last long. Mataya had three sons ; they were not Msidi's 
 children, but were born before she became his wife. One of 
 these sons was shot in one of the chief's wars, another was put 
 to death with his mother, so one still remained. Mataya's people 
 (the Va-litkaliika, whose country is near Garenganze proper) soon 
 heard of her death, and determined to make Msidi pay. Accordingly 
 they sent off a party to the Luapula to plunder the outlying villages 
 of Msidi's domains, and succeeded in killing and capturing a 
 number of people, and threatened to come to the capital. Msidi, 
 for some reason known only to himself (I think it was fear, as 
 he was very short of powder at the time), sent off Mataya's remaining 
 son and some of his men with a present of three large tusks, a 
 coat and vest (which he begged from us) and two or three 
 small trinkets, to the Va-lukaluka, who then professed to be satisfied, 
 and said their quarrel with Msidi was at an end. Since then, 
 sad to say, west-coast traders have brought large supplies of powder, 
 which, I think, accounts for his change of tactics. But to proceed. 
 The men who carried Msidi's present requested the Va-luka to send a 
 deputation to speak with their chief face to face ; so three men and a 
 youth were sent off, and arrived here a few days ago. 
 
 Last Sunday, after Br. Faulknor and I had remembered the 
 Lord in the breaking of bread, and before I gathered the children 
 together, the morning being comparatively cool, I thought I would 
 walk down as far as the chief's. On arriving at the village I found a 
 great many people, and knew there was going to be a great 
 court day. The chief sent a messenger to call the Zanzibari traders, 
 and another to bring the Va-luka. When they arrived Msidi asked 
 the Arabs if they were in any way connected with the Va-luka, 
 to which they replied that they had come to trade, and knew 
 nothing of them or their quarrel with the chief Msidi then made a 
 long speech, during which three of his executioners appeared on 
 the scene, by appointment, for they were painted up for work. 
 While the chief was speaking, these executioners advanced two 
 
1889.] ^^Habitations of Cruelty!' 69 
 
 or three times toward the Va-luka messengers, saying to Msidi, 
 Tuke tudia ("Give us to eat"; meaning, "Give us hberty to kill 
 them"). The chief, on finishing, gave orders for the Va-luka to 
 be put to death. Instantly thirty or forty men rushed towards 
 them, threw them down, tore off their cloths, and would soon 
 have carried out the chief's orders, had not Likuku, his elder 
 brother, asked that they might be simply bound and beaten for 
 the present. 
 
 What could I do? I felt inclined to rush into their midst to try 
 and save these poor men who were surrounded and torn by beings 
 more savage than beasts ; but I also felt that my knowledge of the 
 case would not justify me in interfering. So I had to sit and watch 
 these poor creatures carried off in the midst of this yelhng crowd. 
 As they were dragged along the ground by their legs, arms, ears, and 
 hair, I could not but think of the treatment received by poor Bishop 
 Hannington. I soon left with a heavy heart, the cries of these ill- 
 used creatures still ringing in my ears. Having made enquiries, I 
 learned that they had come at Msidi's request to talk over the dispute 
 between them. The chiefs injustice lay heavily upon my heart, and 
 I cried to the Lord for these poor sufferers. In the children's meeting 
 I told them all that had happened, and said we would ask God to 
 save the lives of these men. At night Br. Faulknor and I also prayed 
 most earnestly for them, and I determined to go down next morning 
 to ask that they might be spared, and also to tell Msidi to his face 
 what we thought of his injustice. The Lord, as is often the case, 
 answered our prayers far beyond our expectation. On reaching the 
 village I saw the three men and the three executioners sitting out- 
 side a hut. What a sight ! The poor men were cut and bruised 
 from head to foot, and the eldest of the three had a severe spear- 
 wound on the left side of his neck besides others on his body. I 
 asked the executioners how it was they had been loosed. They 
 said Msidi had sent word about midnight for them to be taken out 
 of the ropes. 
 
 When we left the chief's I again visited the men, told them how I 
 sympathized with them, also that we were not here to trade, but had 
 come to teach the word of God, and would do all we could to ease 
 their pain. Since then I have visited them again, and they were 
 brought up to our village. The head man's knee and elbow joints 
 had been so mercilessly beaten with clubs, etc., that it caused him 
 much suffering when I stretched them out to bandage them. His 
 continual " Baba wani, Baba tuani " (" My father, my father ") told 
 how thankful he was for the little kindness we showed him, and fully 
 repays me for all I did. May the Lord grant that the day may soon 
 come when the poor fellow and his companions will be able to look 
 
70 Bihe and Garenganze. [Dec. 
 
 up to Him who gave His Son to die for tliem, and say Baba ivaiii, 
 " My Father." 
 
 It is impossible for me to say how thankful I feel that labourers are 
 being provided for the spiritual work that needs to be done in these 
 countries. The next important thing is to see that we rightly divide 
 our forces. I trust that the brethren who accompany our brother 
 Arnot will see their way clear to form at least two stations between 
 here and Bihe. 
 
 A lion's power. 
 
 We again turn to Mr. Swan's diary, the first entry in which 
 reminds us of the constant peril caused by the presence of wild 
 beasts. 
 
 December %th, 1889. — This afternoon my attention was arrested by 
 the cries of natives on a little hill some distance off. 1 ran to the 
 place with my gun, and going up the hillside I came across the body 
 of a young man with all his left side torn away. The natives were 
 shouting higher up the hill, and I ran on and found that, a moment 
 before I reached the spot, they had bravely killed a full-grown lion, 
 but not before he had seized two men, who died immediately, and 
 had given a third a severe wound on his right foot with his paw, when 
 he was seeking safety up a tree. The two men who were killed were 
 gathering firewood, and the elder of them saw in the grass what he 
 thought was a small animal and made towards it. The lion sprang 
 upon him, seized him by the head, and killed him instantly. The 
 other cried out with fear, and the lion left the dead man and caught 
 him by the side, tearing the flesh and ribs away with his powerful 
 jaws. A woman escaped and gave the alarm, and the natives were 
 soon on the spot with their spears and guns, and manfully rid them- 
 selves of the dangerous brute. They dragged its body up to our 
 village, and left it for the night. 
 
 ()th. — This morning I dressed the wounded man's foot. All lions 
 killed are taken to the chief, and 1 had this one carried down by a 
 gang of men. After they had gone through some superstitious cere- 
 monies, spitting meal and water, dancing the " kutomboka," standing 
 on the lion, etc., it was skinned and cut up for fetish purposes. 
 Msidi gave me the claws to send to England. The lion measured 
 9 feet 35 inches from the tip of the nose to the tip of the tail. This 
 will give some idea of the daring of these animals— two men killed 
 and one wounded within a few hundred yards of villages in broad 
 daylight. 
 
 iznd. — To-day all our meetings have been very encouraging. We 
 had about thirty Ovimbundu at the gospel meeting in the afternoon. 
 At the close, one of them asked, " Who killed Jesus .'' were they black 
 
i889.] "WAo Killed Jesus?'' 71 
 
 or white people?" To my shame I had to confess that they were 
 whites, and the wise people of those days. But this gave me another 
 opportunity of witnessing to the truth of Acts xvii. 26 — " God hath 
 made of one blood all nations of men," and I was able to convince 
 them that as in water face answereth to face, so the heart of man to 
 man, that if the Lord Jesus had come into their midst He would have 
 received no better treatment at their hands. They seemed deeply 
 interested in what they heard, and on leaving one of them spoke up 
 and said, " To-day the white man has spoken indeed." Oh, that they 
 might hear God's voice, and receive His word / 
 
 January ^th, 1890. — Br. Faulknor is in a very bad state ; com- 
 plains of great pain in the chest, coughs and spits a great deal night 
 and day. 
 
 ii\.th. — He has now considerably improved in health. Up to 
 December he gave help in teaching the children their letters ; but 
 since then I have taken them altogether off his hands, which con- 
 fines me to the village. Though the school consists only of eight, 
 yet, with manual labour, meetings, learning of languages, etc., I find 
 my time fully employed, and often feel the need of more quiet 
 moments for meditation. But the Lord knows all, and will give the 
 needed grace and strength to go on until our brethren arrive. Then, 
 I doubt not, we shall have a large school. The children come about 
 our village more than they did. 
 
 February ^th. — After much thought and prayer we have decided to 
 send out a native named Siku and four or five men with letters, 
 hoping they will meet some of our brethren. Siku is an elderly 
 Bihdan, who has been living near us ever since Mr. Arnot left, and I 
 have found him fairly trustworthy. Our special object is to inform 
 the brethren that it is impossible for me to leave Br. Faulknor alone. ' 
 
 9//Z. — Our attempt to communicate with our brethren has proved a 
 failure. The men crossed the Lualaba all right, but coming to forked 
 roads they were at a loss which to take, owing to the long grass. 
 They finally took the rights which in this case proved to be the 
 wrong one. Later on they reached a village, and the natives 
 pounced upon them and took all they had, even stripping them of the 
 cloth they wore. 
 
 May yd. — About midnight I was surprised by hearing the report 
 of a gun near the window of my bedroom. Running out I found that 
 Br. Faulknor had shot a leopard. A young lad who was sitting by 
 the fire heard the leopard trying to get at the chickens. He awoke 
 Br. F., who quietly opened the door and got a good shot, the ball 
 passing through its stomach. When I went out it raised itself upon 
 its fore legs and showed its teeth, but a second shot from my gun 
 killed it. 
 
72 Bike and Garenganze. [Oct. 
 
 SOME DIFFICULTIES IN AFRICAN WORK. 
 
 In a letter to the late Mr. Henry Groves, written in 1890, 
 Mr. Swan mentions some of the difficulties of imparting the 
 truths of the word of Clod to Africans : 
 
 I suppose you can scarcely understand the strange kind of feeling 
 that comes over me at times, when I look round and see the numbers 
 of people in these parts who so sadly need the word of God. It is 
 now nearly three years since we came here, and how very little 
 seems to have been done ! If we add the two years that Br. Arnot 
 was here, it makes five years. What a length of time to have been 
 living in the country, and yet many of the natives scarcely know our 
 object in living among them ! It is true, and we thank God for it, that 
 those who are in the habit of coming to our meetings are beginning to 
 understand more clearly what we are here for, but the great majority 
 seem to think we have some personal interest in living among them. 
 
 A few days ago a man who had heard something about the white 
 man's country said, " You must have committed crimes at home, or 
 you would not live here." Some might think that all that is necessary 
 is to tell them you have come to " teach people the words of God," 
 and they would understand at once. But is it so? Far from it. You 
 must first tell them who God is, where His word comes from, how it 
 is that we are so interested in them that we come to live with them. 
 When you remember that before any of these things can be told 
 them, it is necessary to learn a language altogether different from 
 your own, without the aid of vocabulary or grammar, you bet^iii to 
 understand to some extent how so much time passes away without 
 any or with very few results to show. Even after you fairly master 
 the language, and tell them distinctly that you are here to teach them 
 about God and His precious word, you are sometimes greeted with 
 " biivela" or '■^ diiramba^' the Yeke and Luba words meaning "non- 
 sense, untruthfulness," etc. 
 
 Again, you sit down with a man and try to teach him something 
 about right and wrong, and after you have finished he goes away 
 without feeling his responsibility to do what you tell him is right and 
 leave off doing that which you have sought to show him is wrong. 
 Perhaps the conclusion he comes to is that their superstitions are far 
 better than ours. He looks round and sees Va-yeke, Va-lamba, 
 Va-luba, Va-lunda, Va-sanga, and a host of others, with their peculiar 
 beliefs of right and wrong, and when he hears us he looks upon us as 
 one more among the rest, and cannot at all see that he is responsible 
 to take heed to what lue say. Of course we tell him that the word of 
 God is for all people, but to fell him is not to cotiviiice him. We 
 
iSgo.] White and Black Hearts. . 73 
 
 should be utterly discouraged did we not know that the Spirit of God 
 is in the ivorld, yea, is witli us, and it is His work to " convince the 
 world of sin, and of righteousness, and of judgment." 
 
 A JOYFUL MEETING. 
 
 The arrival of the three brethren, so long expected, is thus 
 described : 
 
 October \th. — ^To-day one of the children ran in saying, " A man 
 with letters." To our great joy we learned that at last, after many, 
 many months' delay, God had graciously answered our prayers, and 
 three brethren — Messrs. Lane, Thompson, and Crawford — had 
 reached the Lualaba river in safety. God saw me write the words, 
 " I am sad at heart," and has sent this good news to cheer me, and 
 also Br. Faulknor. Our prayer now is that they may come in the 
 "fulness of the blessing of the gospel of Christ," proving a great 
 blessing to ourselves, the children, and the people. To-morrow I 
 start with one of the chief's right-hand men, Kasanda, and his son, 
 Mafinge, to meet them on the way. When I went down to the chief's 
 he was greatly pleased, and said, " You will be white at heart now." 
 I answered, " I am white at heart because our friends are coming, 
 but black at heart because of what you have done in killing your 
 wives." His only reply was to smack his lips and say, " Oh, they have 
 proved a fetish to bring the white men ! " This gives some idea of the 
 depths of his wickedness. 
 
 ^th. — Early this morning I started off with the object of meeting 
 the brethren at a village about twenty miles off— Kanikili. About 
 lo p.m., when we were all asleep, I heard voices outside my hut door 
 — "A letter for Swana." I found the messenger had brought a letter 
 from Br. Faulknor, written at the chief's request, informing me of the 
 arrival of another Englishman, Mr. Alfred Sharpe, from Nyassa. Mr. 
 Faulknor said nothing about the object of his visit, but the messenger 
 brought word that the chief was anxious for me to return at once and 
 tell him if I knew the white man. 
 
 dth. — I waited until past mid -day, and as I saw no signs of the 
 brethren coming I returned home, my men almost dragging me 
 through water for about three m.iles at the end of the journey. 
 
 7//?.— Visited Mr. Sharpe, and found he had come from Nyassa, 
 and is sent by the British South Africa Company. His object in 
 visiting these parts is to establish friendly relations with the chiefs 
 and peoples, to ascertain what prospects of trade exist, what minerals, 
 and to make commercial treaties. I need scarcely say how pleased 
 we were to see him, and trust that his stay here, though probably 
 short, may be a pleasant one. I stated his business to the chief, after 
 
 F 
 
74 Bihe and Garenganze. [Nov. 
 
 which Mr. Sharpe gave him a very good present, and the old man was 
 very well pleased.* 
 
 9M.— To our almost unspeakable joy, Brn. Thompson, Lane, and 
 Crawford arrived about 12.30 to-day. The chief, some Zanzibaris, 
 Bih^ans, and crowds of people came to our village to welcome them. 
 Their reception was such an one as must have given great joy to their 
 hearts. The old chief was delighted beyond measure. I find on 
 inquiry from the brethren that to-day is the nth and not the 9th. 
 
 We now reach the point at which the previous chapter left 
 ofif^the meeting of the five brethren in October, 1890. The 
 three newcomers were glad to rest their weary feet after the long 
 three months' journey from Bihe ; while the two who had been 
 so long isolated were cheered and refreshed by their brethren's 
 society. They were also able to hold happy meetings daily, in 
 which the gospel was preached in both the Luba and Umbundu 
 languages. 
 
 For many reasons, especially on account of the great scarcity 
 of water, it was thought desirable by both the chief Msidi and 
 the missionaries to remove the Garenganze capital from the dry 
 Unkeya valley, and, with the consent of all, Mr. Swan made an 
 excursion to the east of the Lufira river in search of a site. His 
 diary runs as follow : 
 
 IN SEARCH OF A SITE FOR THE CAPITAL. 
 
 November i\th, 1890. — Left our village at 6.45 a.m. with three boys, 
 a man, and two girls. One of the girls is Sesia, the wife of my boy, 
 Muyembe ; the other is Mwepo, who wished to accompany Sesia. 
 Msidi wanted to send quite a crowd of his young men, but they steal 
 so much from the poor villagers that I refused to have them. To-day 
 Sesia would not eat the food because it was cooked on the fire of a 
 relative of Muyembe. Strange superstitions exist in this country in 
 connection with the marriage tie. If a young man man-ies, it is 
 considered a great insult for him to go near or speak to his father-in- 
 law or mother-in-law. A continual lookout is kept, and the moment 
 either of these appears on the scene the young people make off in 
 great fear. Again, the father and mother are supposed to be respon- 
 sible for the conduct of the girl after marriage ; and if she is found 
 unfaithful, the young man makes a great row with the parents. It is 
 not uncommon for the young man to burn down the house of the girl's 
 parents. A short time ago I heard the report of a gun across the 
 
 * Msidi afterwards turned against Mr. Sharpe, partly owing io fetish ideas 
 as to his having come from an unfavourable quarter (the East), and all 
 attempts at negotiation came to an end. — F. S. A. 
 
iSgo.] Parents-in-law. 75 
 
 valley, and angry voices proceeding from that direction. I found that 
 a young man named Mukuto had fired his gun at his mother-in-law, 
 because she had taken her daughter into the presence of Msidi, and he, 
 taking a fancy to the girl, said she must remain and become his wife. 
 i(>th. — Miipanda's. Remaining to gather food. The hut I slept in 
 last night is as full as it can be of chigoes, fleas, bugs, etc. Have had 
 it cleaned out to-day, but these occupants defy all our efforts. I much 
 prefer sleeping outside, but one cannot do so in the rainy season. 
 
 THE LUFIRA RIVER. 
 
 2Jth. — About an hour and a quarter brought us to the Lufira river, 
 now very much swollen, the water being on a level with the banks, 
 and in some places overflowing. At such times great numbers of fish 
 are speared on the flats, some of them very large, but they are mostly 
 of the cat-fish species. Mupanda himself ferried us across the river 
 in a bark boat, the gunwale of which was not an inch above the water 
 when two of us had entered. He said we would find a good road at 
 the end of the pumpkin gardens, but we could find none, and were 
 compelled to attempt the journey across the flats through the long 
 grass, sometimes reaching far above our heads, and with the heat of 
 the burning sun one felt like being suffocated. A large snake, about 
 the thickness of the calf of a man's leg, suddenly sprang out of the 
 grass at a boy's neck, with its mouth open. One of the girls was 
 between me and the boy, and in attempting to run away she fell down. 
 I stood over her with my gun to shoot the snake, but it immediately 
 disappeared in the long grass. 
 
 We struggled on through the grass for about two hours, and after 
 emerging had to wade through water, sometimes above our waists, for 
 about two hours more. After this, heavy rain began to fall, and being 
 unable to make a shelter we pushed on. Now, instead of the stifling 
 heat, the cold was intense, and right glad were we all when we came 
 across a little band of fishermen, and found they had a fire. We had 
 a little food, the fishennen furnishing us with " sauce." Started again ; 
 shot an antelope {nsevitla), and reached Chipasia's about 7 p.m. It 
 was then dark. The journey which, under ordinary circumstances, 
 would not have been a specially heavy one, took us thirteen hours, 
 including the short rest at the fishermen's huts and the time spent in 
 cutting up the antelope. 
 
 28M. — Chipasia's. Rested to-day ; needed it much after yesterday. 
 Not at all surprised to find myself all aches and pains, and suffering 
 from diarrhoea. Sang a few hymns outside our hut in the evening. 
 
 2<)t/i. — Mweine}ia's. Three and a half hours brought us from 
 Chipasia's. The walk was through thickly-wooded country, but it 
 was pleasant and shady, and I would have enjoyed it had I felt better. 
 Mwemena I have met before. He is a tall, pleasant-looking fellow, and 
 
76 Bihi and Garenganze. [jan. 
 
 has a good many people about him. Natives very kind, bringing meal 
 etc. The country at the bottom of the mountains seems very fertile. 
 
 Jmmary \st, 1891. — Entering upon the New Year I pray for grace 
 to speak boldly for my Redeemer at all times. God's words to young 
 Jeremiah (chap. i. 5-10) bring me much joy. In verse 5 God makes 
 known to him His desire that he should enter on a special work. For 
 my part I can never doubt that God brought me to Africa to work 
 among these people. In verse 6 we see the realization of his utter 
 inability to say anything — "I cannot speak" — or to do anything to 
 the glory of God. He felt he had no more strength than a child — 
 " I am a child." In verse 7 God says, " Thou shalt go . . . thou 
 shalt speak." None but sent ones can speak for God. (Rom. x. 15.) 
 Nothing is so calculated to help us in our testimony as an ever-present 
 conviction that we have been divinely commissioned. And with such 
 a word as verse 8, " I am with thee to deliver thee," how can we have 
 any fear of man ? The Lord's " I am with you alway " is a mighty 
 support in service. 
 
 How beautiful to notice the divine and the human — God's words ; 
 Jeremiah's mouth. God needs our mouths, and we need His words. 
 But our mouths must be sanctified before we can speak even His 
 words acceptably. 
 
 ind. — Chipnna^s. Yesterday morning I sent the boys oft' ten or 
 twelve miles to Msidi's wives who live on the top of the mountains, 
 but are now cultivating at the bottom, to ask them to send guides to 
 take us up. Yesterday afternoon I shot a hippopotamus, and most of 
 the day has been occupied in cutting up and bringing the meat to 
 the village. The natives were so terribly meat-hungry that I was 
 compelled to stand over them to keep order while they did their work. 
 
 '^rd. — The boys returned with Ina-Matorero, Msidi's wife, and two 
 slave wives, and we hope to start to-morrow. There is only one small 
 stream near Chipuna's, and very little water can be found in it during 
 the dry season. The young men and women have been dancing 
 nearly every night since we came, and I have had some difficulty in 
 keeping our boys and girls away. 
 
 4///. — Ina-Matorero strongly advised us not to attempt to climb the 
 mountains by the road near Chipuna's, as it is very heavy. We came 
 on here to her village, and arrived about 5 p.m. Were caught in the 
 rain, but able to make a little shelter. Crossed the Kampemba, a 
 swift mountain torrent, with some difficulty. Passed several small 
 villages on the road — DzTiru's, Mujitba's^ Mashikds. At Mumba's we 
 saw a man who had had his nose bitten off by a hyena. Just before 
 reaching Ina-Matorero's we crossed a stream of good water, which 
 runs dry in the summer, but the Mwana river, a little beyond the village, 
 flows all the year round. 
 
1891.] Numbers Reduced. 77 
 
 ^th. — Went only a short distance to Alafnle's; crossed the Lukafu 
 river, a perennial stream. We are now close to the mountains, and 
 in one day will reach the top. Here I was shown two miserable huts, 
 filthy with vermin, etc., but declined them, and said I would build a 
 hut for myself in the woods. This put the people in a great fright. 
 What would Msidi say when he heard that his white man had slept in 
 the woods ? We did not try to calm their fears, but the boys and I 
 built a hut, and were fortunate to have it finished before the rain fell. 
 
 6th. — CHmbed the mountains ; a very hard job, but not so difficult 
 as I expected from native reports. Camped on the top ; had a grand 
 view of the country for miles round. The mountains at the capital 
 were distinctly seen, and I half wished myself back again in our own 
 comfortable little village, having been wetted to the skin so many 
 times during this journey. The Katuba Mwenda, a small river just at 
 the bottom of the mountains, fails in the hot season, while the 
 Makanga, on the upper region, has a constant supply of water. 
 
 MESSRS. FAULKNOR AND THOMPSON LEAVE FOR BIHE. 
 
 Mr. Swan did not succeed in discovering any site suitable for 
 Msidi. On his return to the capital he found Mr. Thompson 
 invalided with an injured eye. Mr. Lane, when buying eggs 
 from a native, struck one smartly with the handle of a table-knife, 
 in order to test the condition of its contents. The egg, being 
 rotten, exploded, and a splinter from the shell struck Mr. 
 Thompson's eye, which became inflamed and exceedingly painful. 
 Losing the sight of this eye for some time, and fearing lest his 
 sight might be permanently injured, he resolved to return to 
 Bihe for medical aid in company with Mr. Faulknor, who had 
 decided to return to Canada, as he felt himself, owing to his 
 very prolonged illness, disabled from active service. 
 
 Notwithstanding the fatigues of the five months' trying journey 
 from Garenganze, throughout most of the distance of which the 
 two travellers were obliged to be carried in tipoias, they both 
 improved much in health. On arriving at Bihe Mr. Thompson 
 was so much better that he decided to return at once to the 
 Interior, and many of the carriers who had accompanied him 
 to Bihe were willing to go back again with him. 
 
 Mr. Faulknor was at once taken in hand by Dr. W. Fisher, the 
 only medical man of our party, and under his treatment our 
 brother soon recovered so far as to be able to dispense with his 
 crutches, and for the time abandoned his intention of returning 
 to Canada, 
 
CHAPTER VIII. 
 IREinfotCfincnt from Bffferent Hantts. 
 
 (May and June, 1891.) 
 
 DURING the twelve months that intervened between the 
 setting out of the three brethren for Garenganze and the 
 return, in July, 1891, of Messrs. Thompson and Faulknor, our 
 little party at Kwanjulula, Bihe, found no lack of occupation. 
 After the Portuguese war had ended there was the usual local 
 work in connection with buildings and enclosures, and an effort 
 was made to provide food by very primitive farming. 
 
 A Gateway and Fence of Village at Kwanjulula. 
 
 The difficulties of obtaining calico and goods from the coast 
 for our own use and for the brethren at (Garenganze had to be 
 overcome. The gospel was gradually made known in the 
 neighbourhood, the study of Umbundu was prosecuted, and sick 
 ones were cared for. 
 
May, 1891.] More Coming Over to Help. 79 
 
 Meanwhile friends at home had not forgotten the Httle band 
 "toiUng on" in the great African field. Early in the year, 1891, 
 Mr. and Mrs. Cyril Bird, who crossed from Canada to England 
 eti route for Africa, were joined in England by Miss Anna Darling 
 from Ireland, and inasmuch as these two ladies were certificated 
 and experienced nurses, they promised to be no small acquisition 
 to the work. Mr. Joseph Lynn and Mr. Schindler (a Swiss) had 
 preceded them, the latter to Lisbon, and the former to Madeira, 
 with the desire to learn something of the Portuguese language, 
 and expecting to join the outgoing party at these respective ports. 
 Mr. Lynn, however, having heard that a Mr. and Mrs. Murrain, 
 two coloured people, were being sent over to our help by an 
 assembly of Christians at Georgetown, Demerara, decided to 
 await their arrival at Madeira, and assist them in completing their 
 journey thence to Benguella. 
 
 As soon as the news reached us in Bihe that these various 
 parties were on their way to join us we immediately addressed 
 ourselves to the arduous task of collecting a sufficient company 
 of carriers. Dr. Fisher, who took charge of this business, started 
 for the coast with over seventy porters to meet the incoming 
 party, and greeted them at Benguella on the 21st of May. 
 
 On the 24th of May, Mr. Bird wrote on the way inland : 
 
 We are here safe, well, and happy, and our hearts are very full of 
 gratitude to our God for helping us to get away from the coast so 
 soon. We left Catumbella yesterday afternoon, and arrived here early 
 this forenoon, after a somewhat trying march. The path ascended 
 from the very door of the house at Catumbella. The carriers had 
 begun to grumble terribly at the protracted delay ; some were getting 
 sick, and all were getting thinner, for the interior natives invariably 
 suffer if they remain at the coast more than three or four days. The 
 men we left behind are now contented, as they see we are honest in 
 our determination to get all away at the earliest possible date. It 
 seems a rather extreme experiment to leave sixty or seventy men with 
 Br. Schindler, but one of his headmen can speak Portuguese, and Dr. 
 W. Fisher thinks they will get along all right. Anyway, we judged it 
 better to start, as it was costing nearly £-}, per day to keep all the 
 men at the coast. 
 
 It would be hard to give an idea of our journey, as everything 
 has been so utterly strange. During the first few miles we passed a 
 number of graves of carriers. They put a heap of stones over the 
 place, raise a pole, with the poor man's piece of cloth attached to it, 
 
8o BiM and Garenganze. " [May, 
 
 and then break his calabash and leave it on the heap. There were 
 many fresh graves, as numbers have died of late from small-pox. By 
 climbing one hill after another, we at last reached the crest of the 
 range, and were told that this was the last point from which we could 
 see the sea. 
 
 Soon afterwards we came to a terrible place, where the path des- 
 cended amongst rocks and thorn shrubs, and I would have dismounted 
 had not Dr. Fisher persuaded me to remain in the saddle. The mules, 
 however, never slip, and after a while we were able to breathe more 
 freely. We passed great numbers of natives in large caravans going 
 into Benguella to trade in rubber, ivory, and gum. They told us that 
 a party of soldiers on their way to Bihe were encamped at the Supwa 
 Pass (where we are to-night). I am sorry for this, as they will frighten 
 the natives, being one day ahead of us, and drive them from the 
 villages, making it difficult for us to buy food for our men. We 
 reached our first halting-place long after dark. 
 
 It being the "Ekonga" or desert, we had brought water with us, 
 and after lighting a fire were able to make a meal of tea, biscuit, 
 and roast beef, which we brought from Catumbella. The tent was 
 put up for the ladies, and Dr. Fisher and I lay down in our blankets 
 under the open sky. It was very warm, and as there was no dew we 
 did not suffer. Next morning we were up at three, and after a cup of 
 cocoa and a plate of oatmeal porridge started off at four, and by half- 
 past seven saw the river. We crossed and encamped soon after eight. 
 To-morrow we commence the climb again up the Supwa. We are 
 beginning to learn how to rough it, as almost our entire outfit has 
 been left behind at the coast. As regards provisions, however, we 
 are able to secure a fair supply, and do not suffer. We have only one 
 camp cot for the whole party. Miss Darling had a capital bed made 
 by one of her tipoia men. Four forked sticks are put into the 
 ground ; two poles are then laid across, and little light sticks placed 
 transversely, over them being a pile of soft leaves. All the natives 
 are fast asleep, as it is now 7.30, and has been dark an hour. To-day 
 when it was cool we had dinner, and afterwards remembered the 
 Lord's death together. Some of the Ovimbundu came around when 
 we sang and asked what it meant, so Dr. Fisher explained it to them. 
 We afterwards gathered more of them together, and some of the boys 
 from near Kwanjulula sang several hymns in Umbundu to familiar 
 tunes. It was very touching to hear them sing in their own tongue 
 about the Lord Jesus, and they seemed to enjoy it thoroughly. 
 
 After we reach Bih^ we shall have a native grass hut to sleep in, 
 and shall be quite comfortable. We are perfectly well, and in good 
 hands. I must wind up for the night. My back aches from sitting 
 in an awkward position, and my candle is beginning to attract the 
 
1 89 1.] A Place of Sorrowful Memories. 8i 
 
 mosquitoes, and if they find us out we sliall be at their mercy, as all 
 our curtains are in Benguella. 
 
 Dr. Fisher was giving us lessons in Umbundu in our hut to-day, as 
 it was the coolest place. The two sisters have a decided advantage, 
 as they are shut up to the conversation of their tipoia-bearers on the 
 journey, and Miss Darling serenely sticks to her Umbundu notes and 
 her note-book whilst being carried up and down most precipitous 
 places. 
 
 We had hoped to go further to-day, but when we learned there was 
 no water we remained here, as there are big holes dug in the sand 
 under a stone, in which a small quantity of water gathers. We got 
 some muddy stuff, but, thirsty as I was when I arrived in camp, it 
 looked so bad that I had not the slightest inclination to drink it until 
 it was boiled, and the mud disguised in tea or soup. We greatly 
 enjoy our dessicated soup. The scenery around us here is exceedingly 
 romantic and fine. There are beautiful hills on either side with rich 
 tropical foliage. 
 
 Thus onward the little party advanced, up and over the rugged 
 mountainous ascent, till they gained the rmi of the undulating 
 and elevated interior plateau. After speaking of the crossing of 
 the Keve River on the 3rd of June, Mr. Bird continues : 
 
 Another hour brought us in sight of the village of Utalama, the 
 place of sorrowful memories, and by making a round of the hill to 
 the left instead of going to the right by the regular road we soon 
 came to a spot in the woods, just a little square about 14 feet 
 each way with a neat fence around it. Dismounting, we leaned over 
 the paling and gazed on the place where all that was of this earth of 
 our beloved departed brethren Morris and Gall was resting. It was a 
 sorrowful moment and a solemn one to us all, as we were thus 
 reminded of the reality of what it meant to give up all for the sake of 
 Africa, even life itself, and to be ready at any moment to go if it 
 should be the will of Him that sent us. I could only afresh yield 
 myself and all that I have in full surrender to Him, to be used to fill 
 up in a little measure the gaps made in the ranks of Central African 
 service, and to try and compensate as well as I am able for Africa's 
 heavy loss. My memory went back to the night when I received 
 Echoes with the terrible news, and how it went to my heart, sending 
 me to my knees to see if I were ready even for this. It really seems 
 as if we were to be privileged to take dear brother Morris's place out 
 here, as I believe it was quite his intention to take up work at Nana 
 Kandundu, and, as far as we can see at present, that appears to be 
 the place marked out by the Lord for us. The day after we left 
 Utalama we arrived in Chilume, the station of the American mission. 
 
82 Bih^ and Garenganze. [June, 
 
 They were all exceedingly kind and hospitable, and the luxury of a 
 quiet bed in a comfortable house was unutterable. 
 
 Chilume was only four days from Kwanjulula — our destination ; but 
 to reach it in that time meant pretty long marches. Our carriers, 
 however, were determined to accomplish it, and accordingly three 
 days later found us camping only about three hours' march from 
 Kwanjulula. The only event worth recording was the crossing of the 
 Buluvulu plain, which is a regular prairie about twelve miles across, 
 and we were about six hours getting over ; it was exceedingly hot. 
 It was amusing to hear the carriers all rejoicing at the nearness of 
 home, and shouting on all sides, '■'■ Ko Kwanjulula hena" i.e. "At 
 Kwanjulula to-morrow." I was in charge of the caravan, with a very 
 temporary authority, as Dr. Fisher had pushed on to arrive a day 
 before us. 
 
 Next morning we made an early start, in spite of the remonstrances 
 of our carriers, who kept pointing up to the sky, where the sun would 
 be at ten o'clock, and saying we should reach Kwanjulula then. As 
 soon as we were fairly on the road it seemed like the march of a con- 
 cjuering army returning home. Our men were in the highest spirits, 
 and sang lustily all the way. After leaving the prairie we were in 
 Bihe territory, and the natives were looking for us. As soon as the 
 people of the first village we passed heard the singing, they all turned 
 out to welcome us, dancing and singing and clapping their hands, 
 and running alongside of the carriers to get a good look at the white 
 ladies. I could hardly retain my seat in the saddle, as the mule was 
 dancing about, almost like one of the natives, in the excitement. The 
 same scene was repeated at almost every village with more or less 
 intensity, until we accepted it as a matter of course. 
 
 While we were looking out for the station flag, thinking we must be 
 getting near, I suddenly observed a little man running along the path 
 with several children at his heels, dancing with glee. I said, " Are 
 you Dick?" "Yes." We gave each other a grip, and then away he 
 danced to the tipoias just behind. After a shake-hands there, off 
 went the shot gun he carried, and away he went at full speed. 
 Coming round the bend of the path we saw the school-house and 
 flag, and knew it was Kwanjulula at last. Here the road had been 
 levelled up in real home style, and, with both tipoias abreast and the 
 mule alongside, we marched up to the gate of the compound, outside 
 which all the dear friends we had so longed to meet were standing in 
 a line to receive us. There were Mr. and Mrs. Arnot, Miss Gilchrist, 
 Mr. Munnoch, and Dr. Fisher, together with Dick and Delunga, 
 Susi's sister and several others. With hearts overflowing with praise 
 and gratitude to God for his wonderful care of us all, we were led into 
 the house. 
 
iSgi.] 
 
 Welcominsr Fresh Labourers. 
 
 83 
 
 We soon learned that it was on Mr. Arnot's mind to make an early 
 start for Nana Kandundu, and every day fresh head-men were arriving 
 with their gangs of men to get loads. Quite a number have been 
 given out already, all of which are for the brethren in Garenganze. 
 Mr. Arnot has decided, if possible, to take us on, as he knows Queen 
 Nana, and promised to bring in some white teachers to her country. 
 His going may save a great deal of palaver, and possibly a bale or so 
 of cloth, in getting a suitable site for the station. 
 
 Dr. Fisher left Mr. Schindler at Benguella in charge of the 
 remainder of the caravan, to bring on the residue of the baggage 
 of Mr. and Mrs. Bird and Miss Darling, as soon as it could be 
 got through the Custom House, a certain number of porters 
 being set apart for the use of Dr. Johnston, of Jamaica, who 
 arrived with six Jamaica men in the same steamer as Messrs. 
 Bird and Schindler, and had asked us to procure carriers. 
 
 Mr. Schindler had thus a rather singular experience in having 
 to take entire charge of about sixty porters, to whom he was 
 unable to speak a word in their own language ; all, however, 
 arrived safely in Bihe. 
 
 While we were commencing preparations for the departure of 
 the party going into the interior Messrs. Faulknor and Thompson 
 arrived from the Garenganze, so we had the benefit of their 
 counsel and^help. 
 
 / / r-J~2i ? VWsX 
 
 '" ■'■^i 
 
 Skeleton of House at Kwanjulula, which afterwards 
 collapsed, 
 
CHAPTER IX. 
 
 ^omnuncing at Nana IBtantiuntru ; lEncoutagenunt in i3if)e. 
 
 (August, 1891, to April, 1892.) 
 
 MAKING a start from Bihe is always tedious work. The 
 villages where the men whom we hire as porters reside 
 are widely scattered, and their friends expect them to give a visit 
 all round, and to drink beer with them before leaving home. No 
 ship-master in the olden days could have had greater trouble, 
 or required more patience in getting his crew together on the eve 
 of a voyage, than we have in collecting our men for a final start. 
 
 Our party consisted of Mr. H. B. Thompson, (who was re- 
 turning to the Garenganze,) Mr. and Mrs. Bird, Miss Gilchrist, 
 Mr. Schindler, and myself We crossed the Kwanza in canoes, 
 August 31st, 1 89 1, taking the route described in Mr. Crawford's 
 diary, but had not the same difficulties. Since the military occu- 
 pation of Bihe by the Portuguese the natives everywhere were 
 found more easy to deal with, and although we exchanged 
 presents with the chiefs, they no longer plagued us with peremp- 
 tory demands for tribute at every camp. 
 
 On the way we sought to bring the gospel before the many 
 carriers from different parts of the Bihe district, who composed 
 our caravan. In a home letter Mr. Bird gave a graphic account 
 of our evening assembly on one occasion : 
 
 Kasombo, Sept. \th. — We have all just returned from the regular 
 evening meeting in the camp. It is really a most interesting sight 
 and most soul-inspiring. Shortly after sunset, when the men have all 
 eaten their mush and beans, the whistle is blown for "Ta?iga" and 
 taking our folding chairs and a lantern we wind in and out among 
 the huts of our immense camp— far larger than many a native village. 
 As we thread our way past one after another of the many camp fires, 
 with its little circle round it, going over all the events of the day, we 
 
Sept. 1891.] An Evening Camp Meeting. 85 
 
 almost invariably get the native greeting, " Kahtnga /" which affords 
 an opportunity of an invitation, and we say, '•'■ Enju ko ianga" (Come 
 to meeting). Right in the middle of the camp Dick and Mr. Arnot's 
 boys have kindled an immense bonfire, round which many are already 
 gathered. We sit down in the circle, and soon the familiar strains of 
 the old tune, " Rescue the Perishing," are floating over the camp with 
 Umbundu words. By the time the chorus of the last verse is reached 
 the audience is more than doubled, and many a dark-skinned son of 
 Ham is singing lustily, as loud as he can, '■'■ Kolela Yesu ! Kolela 
 Yesu ! Eye toia oko kit yovolo " (Trust Jesus ! Trust Jesus ! He 
 is able to redeem you). When the hymn is over Mr. Arnot takes up 
 the Gospel of John, and as the old but ever new story of the love of 
 God to sinners is being unfolded it is fine to watch the rows of shining 
 black faces around the big camp fire. The old Pomberos on their 
 little stools, leaning their chins on their hands, listen most attentively, 
 whilst their well-greased faces shine, not with the joy of God inside, 
 but plenty of palm oil outside. The inner circle is mostly composed 
 of children, and back further and further in the darkness — until you 
 can see nothing but two shining eyes and a row of just as shining 
 white teeth below them — stand all the men who have gathered round. 
 After the Word is preached Dick prays, and the meeting is finished ; 
 but, could one only hear it, around many a camp fire all through the 
 camp, that little address is gone over word for word, and with far 
 more emphasis, gesture, and eloquence than the original ; and were 
 you to go to the huts, in many of them you would hear one telling 
 " all the words of God that Monare said." They have a wonderful 
 way of letting one do all the talking, and say all he has to say, while 
 they sit in perfect silence. When he says ^^ Kahtnga /" all respond 
 ^'' Kalitnga I" and then they make comments and criticise all that 
 has been said ; but no church audience or legal court could yield 
 more respectful attention to the one "who has the floor" than they 
 do. Thus God's precious Word spreads and spreads, and will not 
 return unto Him void. Who shall say tliat the seed sown to-night 
 will not bear fruit in eternity? Do tell the Christians at home to 
 pray, pray, pray! The responsibility of our position is awfully 
 solemn, and how can we fulfil it but by God's grace ? These people 
 are just like those at home. There are many things they like when 
 they hear them, but when told that they are black sinners, and that 
 God, who knows everything, knows it well, they soon rebel against it 
 and seek to justify themselves. Nothing but the almighty power of 
 God can do anything for them, and this power we want to live out in 
 our lives. 
 
 When we arrived at Kangombe's capital in the Lovale country 
 I learned that an embassy had been up from the Barotsi, and on 
 
S6 BiM and Garenganze. [Oct. 
 
 making enquiry I found that the Lovale people, from Kangombe's 
 to Nana's, considered themselves tributary to the Barotsi through 
 the paramount Lovale capital of Kakenge, which is at the junc- 
 tion of the river Luena with the Zambesi. Kakenge is the old 
 hereditary capital of the Va-luena or Va-lovale, but it is kept up 
 merely for the sake of tribal rites and ceremonies. Kakenge 
 had long since died, and Nana had recently placed her 
 nephew (Kalipa) in the gap ; but neither she nor her son 
 Chinyama, nor Kangombe, own tributary allegiance to him : he 
 has not a tenth of their power. The Chibokwe have no para- 
 mount chief. 
 
 We reached Nana's on October 15th — only six months after 
 Mr. and Mrs. Bird had left London. The absence of delays at 
 the coast and at Bihe allowed of this exceptionally quick journey; 
 but it had its disadvantages, for they found themselves in the 
 centre of Africa, comparatively strangers to the language, the 
 people, and their customs. 
 
 Nana was from home when we arrived, but the preparation of 
 a caravan for Garenganze had to be set about at once. In ten 
 days Mr. Thompson left. Two days later Nana arrived. She 
 seemed very doubtful as to our real intentions, and was fearful of 
 losing her position as chiefess. After several visits to our camp, 
 however, she became more assured, and came down one evening 
 with an ox and a number of her most important people. She 
 said that if I would kill this ox there and then, with her hand 
 resting on one of my shoulders, and her husband's hand on the 
 other, all her fears would be dispelled, and she and the whites 
 would be friends for ever. We gladly agreed to her proposal, 
 and I took my gun and went out to the bush with Mr. Bird, and 
 the ceremony of shooting the ox was gone through, greatly to 
 the satisfaction of Nana and her people. Next day we sent her 
 a handsome present of calico (96 yards), and arrangements were 
 at once made by Mr. Bird for getting a house built, for which 
 we went in search of rafter poles. Three more happy days of 
 fellowship closed my stay at Nana's. The altitude of Nana 
 Kandundu above the sea we found, by boiling point thermometer, 
 to be 3690 feet, nearly 3700. 
 
 Mr. and Mrs. Bird went to Nana's just at the right time. 
 Had they been there a few years earlier they would have had 
 
1891.] Rescuing Slave Children. ^y 
 
 a great trial of patience, but now the natives are in a different 
 frame of mind. Mrs. Bird soon got some of the women to 
 wear more clothing, and her husband showed the men how 
 to do a day's work without shirking. A good start was thus 
 made in a promising field by suited workers. Mr. Schindler 
 was uncertain about remaining at Nana's, but stayed to help 
 for a time. Miss Gilchrist was very well and cheerful, and I 
 was thankful to leave with her a little girl about ten years old 
 called Nama. When I was going home from Garenganze, in 
 1888, the chief at Boma beset us to pay a fine of a slave. I, 
 of course, would not do so, and we remained in camp in a 
 state of siege for two days. On the evening of the second day 
 Cinyama sent over a woman slave without my knowledge, and 
 she was afterwards exchanged for a little girl, the property of 
 one Kabenga. On coming in this time I got the child back 
 from Boma, and handed her over to Miss Gilchrist's care. It 
 would be a pleasure to her to teach and train this child, who 
 was exceedingly bright and healthy. 
 
 The story of the rescue, on this journey, of a little boy named 
 Ngoi is also full of interest, giving, as it does, a glimpse into the 
 horrors of Central African slavery. Sacitota, a well-known Bihe 
 trader, had gone to the Luba country to obtain slaves, and while 
 engaged in his nefarious traffic was killed by a company of 
 Congo Free State soldiers.* The remnant of Sacitota's large 
 caravan arrived at Nana Kandundu in charge of his brother, having 
 managed to escape with a number of slaves. One man had 
 carried a Httle boy on his shoulder for over a week — not from 
 kindness to the boy, but hoping to exchange him at Nana 
 Kandundu for a goat or pig. He had cut the throats of the 
 rest of his slaves, he said, but this child escaped a similar fate 
 because he was light and easily carried. This man had hawked 
 the child round the Lovale villages for some time before I 
 heard of him, but no purchaser was found, and I gladly gave 
 the man the price of a goat for him. Little more than skin 
 and bone, Ngoi was unable to stand upright from sheer weak- 
 ness, and because of a twist in his back from being carried 
 so long over the man's shoulder, but I did not despair of 
 pulling him through. He rode behind me on the mule 
 * This is elsewhere referred to. 
 
88 Bihe and Garenganze. [Nov. 
 
 all the way to Bihe, clinging with his sinewy little arms to my 
 back, much as he had done to his mother's, only a few months 
 before. 
 
 As the child gained strength and confidence he told his 
 touching story with great pathos. He was given by his friends 
 as security until a certain debt they had incurred was paid. 
 Meanwhile the native traders from Bihe came along, with their 
 guns and many-coloured calico, and the temptation was too 
 great to the man who held Ngoi as security, so he sold him 
 to these " Ishmaelites " of West Central Africa. After long 
 months of waiting in camp, where Ngoi was tied with a lot of 
 other slave children, a start was made for Bihe, but they had 
 not gone far when they met the Free State soldiers. Ngoi's 
 master at once fastened a wooden shackle on his feet to keep 
 him from running away, and he was put into a grass hut with 
 other slaves, of whom, he said, there were hundreds. Then the 
 fighting began. The bullets whizzed through the camp, and 
 Ngoi was very much afraid. Struggling to free himself of his 
 shackle, he succeeded in knocking out the pin that held his 
 feet in, and off he rushed to the bush. In a hollow tree near 
 by he found refuge, but several bullets struck the tree. At last 
 Sacitota's camp took fire, and little Ngoi, from his hollow tree, 
 saw the flames and heard the shrieks of the poor slaves, all 
 fastened together, as they were burned to death. Then night 
 came, and all was still ; the hyenas came round, and poor Ngoi 
 thought he would never escape their jaws. Towards morning 
 one of Sacitota's men stole back to the burned camp in search 
 of his master's body, which he found and buried, and also 
 released Ngoi from the tree and carried him off after the 
 retreating caravan. All this must have been a terrible ex- 
 perience for the poor little boy. They had to travel very 
 quickly, and from morning till night. All the other children 
 in Ngoi's company were killed one after the other. His master 
 lifted his axe time after time to give him the fatal blow, and 
 followed him with it over his little head, saying, " Now, if you 
 stop I will kill you." He was, however, brought on to Nana 
 Kandundu, and we trust that he will also be freed from the 
 bondage of sin and Satan. 
 
 After the heavy toil of forming a station, Mr. Bird, writing 
 
1893, by permission. 
 
•BIHE and GARENGANZE," from the "Geographical Journal," March 1893, by permission. 
 
1 89 1.] Virgin Soil in Africa. 89 
 
 from Nana Kandundti early in 1892, expressed in few words 
 what is the early experience of most workers in Africa. 
 
 Nana Kandundu. — I wish I could tell you of progress in the work 
 here, but all who know anything of African experience understand 
 how little can be done in what would seem a long time at home, 
 or even in more civilized lands, where books, translations, and 
 dictionaries make a rapid acquisition of the language possible, if 
 not easy. Here houses and fences have to be built, ditches dug, 
 fields cultivated, entirely under one's own supervision ; and grammars, 
 etc., must be formed out of one's own brain. Thus you will under- 
 stand how, in view of all these things, our work does not promise 
 much in the way of results for many a day. However, as these 
 things must be done by some one, we esteem it an honour to be 
 the pioneers, not building on another's foundation. We rejoice that 
 the people are now beginning to believe in our protestations, and act 
 in a more friendly manner towards us. 
 
 In the course of a few months Miss Gilchrist suffered in health, 
 and was discouraged at finding herself not understood by the 
 Lovale people ; so it was thought well for her to return to Bihe. 
 Mr. Schindler kindly journeyed with her, returning soon to Nana 
 Kandundu ; and during his absence Mr. Lane stayed there 
 awhile on his way from Garenganze after the downfall of Msidi's 
 kingdom. We are anticipating events which will be narrated 
 later on, but do so very briefly, in order to tell how matters 
 proceeded at Nana Kandundu. 
 
 HOPEFUL SIGNS AT KWANJULULA. 
 
 Leaving Nana Kandundu with Ngoi, as mentioned above, my 
 journey to Kwanjulula was quickly and safely accomplished by 
 November 27th, and I was very thankful to find all well and 
 the work progressing. Mr. Joseph Lynn, with Mr. and Mrs. 
 Murrain, of Demerara, had come on from Madeira, arriving at 
 Benguella June 6th. Dr. Fisher was able to send down a few 
 carriers to the coast, by whose help they got up to Bihe 
 August 25th, after a rather prolonged stay at Benguella. 
 
 It was a pleasure to find both these brethren applying them- 
 selves successfully to the study of the Umbundu language, and 
 though it was long since Mr. Murrain's forefathers had been 
 carried away from Africa, he evinced a readiness in acquiring 
 Umbundu, the language of the Bihe district. 
 
 G 
 
90 Bihe and Garenganze. [dec. 
 
 I have often observed that unless new-comers apply themselves 
 closely to learn an African language during their first few months 
 in the country, they rarely so master it as to accurately under- 
 stand what the natives say, or to express themselves with ease 
 or fluency, even though they may have years of residence and 
 of desultory and interrupted study. 
 
 " I have set before thee an open door " was brought forcibly to 
 my mind as I saw, on returning to Kwanjulula, the access that 
 Dr. Fisher had to the surrounding villages and people. It 
 became my joyful privilege to unite with him in this work, 
 which came as a restful and refreshing change after the bustle 
 and arduousness of travel. When on the march with carriers 
 there are, it is true, opportunities afforded us of preaching to 
 the men night after night, which we always embrace ; but gospel- 
 work among the villages is in every way pleasanter and more 
 satisfactory, inasmuch as we are free from the distractions 
 peculiar to " the road" — paying off and engaging men, disputings 
 as to pay, rations, etc. At Kwanjulula we arranged to hold 
 special meetings during the moonlight nights, at which we could 
 get together from 20 to 150 hearers every evening. 
 
 During these village preachings we had our full share of exercise 
 of heart, both of joy and grief among those who heard, and 
 some of whom, we are thankful to add, have believed in Christ. 
 
 One young woman, D , has been a typical case of the " good 
 
 ground," for not only has she received salvation herself, but by 
 her prayers and zeal she has gained her cousin for Christ. 
 
 Another, C , has proved the power of the word of God 
 
 in the heart to stimulate the mind to study the art of reading 
 and writing, and thus he has been able to read the Scriptures 
 for himself. 
 
 Another, S , for whom much intercession had been made, 
 
 after the preaching of the gospel in his uncle's village, confessed 
 himself a sinner in the sight of God. Since then the poor man 
 has lost nearly all his children, five of them dying within a few 
 months. Of course his friends ascribe these deaths in his family 
 to the displeasure of the spirits of his forefathers, who, they say, 
 are enraged at him for associating himself with the white man 
 
 and his religion. To some extent poor S has been brought 
 
 to a standstill by this overwhelming trial, yet he not only con- 
 
1891.] " The Understanding Darkened.^' 91 
 
 tinues to come to the meetings, but also brings his friends with 
 him. We had our own suspicions regarding the death of all 
 these children. 
 
 On the other hand there are those who did run well, but who 
 now walk no longer with us. One who was baptised publicly as 
 a Christian, has not only been put away from the Lord's table, 
 but also prohibited the premises of Kwanjulula because of his 
 wicked and depraved example. 
 
 Some have sought instruction, and professed themselves en- 
 quirers after God, merely with a view to improve their temporal 
 condition. The tendency of the African to be inflated and 
 uplifted presents a great difficulty to the Christian teacher. How 
 to instruct the mind, and yet humble the heart ; how to clothe 
 the body, and yet strip the soul, are problems that continually 
 confront us. The effort to awaken any conscience toward God 
 ever reminds us of our dependence upon His Holy Spirit. Sup- 
 pose, for instance, that you visit a sick man ; he may possibly tell 
 you that he has a bad conscience ; his heart smites him ; he has 
 done wrong ; and that is why he is sick. At first sight it would 
 seem that the man was, from a Christian's standpoint, in a hope- 
 ful condition, but upon further inquiry you will probably discover 
 that his omission of some act of gross wickedness is really what 
 is troubling his mind. He thinks, perhaps, that he has offended 
 the spirit of his grandfather, because he has not avenged his 
 death at the hands of some witch long since dead, but whose 
 children are still alive, and to this neglect of revenge against 
 them he attributes his present sickness. 
 
CHAPTER X. 
 
 Jprom C&arengan?e to Uusambo. 
 
 (February to August, i8qr.) 
 
 WHILE we at Bihe and Nana Kandundu were occupied with 
 the business of missionary enterprise in countries already 
 known and traversed, our brother C. A. Swan was exploring, to 
 the north of Msidi's capital, regions wholly unknown, and meeting 
 with dense populations of Luba-speaking people hitherto un- 
 reached. But before giving details of his journey we must take 
 up the thread of events at Garenganze, where we left off at the 
 close of chapter vii. 
 
 By the leaving of Messrs. Faulknor and Thompson, February 
 3rd, 1 89 1, the number of missionaries at Msidi's was again 
 reduced to three — Messrs. Swan, Lane, and Crawford — and these 
 plodded on with their work, saddened, however, by the cruelties 
 of Msidi, and perplexed by the disorder which was increasing 
 in the country. The Va-sanga, the original inhabitants, had, 
 for some wrong done to one of their number, turned against 
 Msidi, and though unable to withstand him in open day, they 
 carried on a kind of guerilla warfare by night, causing much 
 alarm and doing no little injury. Perhaps from being short of 
 powder, and not in his wonted health, Msidi took no active steps 
 to stop the spread of the Va-sanga rebellion, and what the result 
 might be our three friends could not tell. 
 
 While things were in this state, to their great astonishment 
 they saw, on the 15 th of April, 1891, a little band of black 
 soldiers approaching with a strange flag, and to their further sur- 
 prise one of these saluted them in English. It turned out that 
 he had been taught in the C.M.S. school at Lagos. These men. 
 were the advanced guard of a force under a Belgian officer. 
 Commander Le Marinel, who had come from his station at 
 
June, 1891.] Mr. Swan Leaves for England. ^ 93 
 
 Lusambo, on the Sankuru river, some 500 miles to the north, 
 in order to take possession of Garenganze in the name of the 
 Congo Free State. Other expeditions — one from the east coast 
 — were to follow, high expectations being entertained in Europe 
 that gold would be found in the country. 
 
 A sad disaster happened to M. Le Marinel's force, which con- 
 sisted of four European officers and heavily-armed black soldiers, 
 by the explosion of much of their powder, causing the death of 
 many of their men. M. Le Marinel treated Msidi with much 
 consideration, and finally obtained consent that some of his force 
 should remain, while he set out on his return to Lusambo by a 
 route somewhat different from that by which he had come. 
 
 Of necessity little had been done in exploring the Garenganze 
 country either by myself or Mr. Swan. The chief would not con- 
 sent to our going far, and Mr. Swan was tied by the constant 
 care of attending for three years to his sick companion, and 
 also looking after the rescued waif children. Now, however, the 
 opportunity offered of accompanying M. Le Marinel, and of 
 traversing much of the extensive Luba country which was under 
 Msidi's sway. Mr. Swan -also had in mind to make a short visit 
 to England, if possible, via the Sankuru and Congo rivers. A 
 start was made with the Belgian commander and one of his 
 officers, with a few men, on the 5th of June, 1891, and a route 
 was chosen in a north-westerly direction. The following extracts 
 are taken from Mr. Swan's entries in his diary, but occasionally 
 they are condensed. 
 
 MR. swan's diary FROM GARENGANZE TO LUSAMBO. 
 
 June 6th. — Time on tnarch (yesterday and to-day together), seven 
 hours J direction, 335 ; altitude, 1,200 metres. Camped at Chiwelele's. 
 This is a Sanga chief, and all his people have fled and joined the 
 rebels. No water all the way ; after we arrived it was an hour or two 
 before we found a dirty puddle, for which we were very thankful 
 under the circumstances. On the way I shot two small antelopes 
 (roy-bucks). Had an opportunity of writing to the brethren from 
 whom I had parted. 
 
 Tth. — Time, 4 hours 40 minutes j direction, 349 ; altitude, 1,000 
 metres.* Passed along the Buleya river, but did not cross. It runs 
 
 * Particulars as to time, &c., were noted daily; these are only given as 
 specimens. 
 
94 BiM and Garenganze. [June, 
 
 into the Likuruwe river, and the water is excellent. Camped at 
 Likuruwe. 
 
 %th. — Rest to-day. We went to seek meat for the caravan, and 
 after much hard work I succeeded in shooting one nseviila. 
 
 <^th. — No water all the, way, so we marched right on without a rest. 
 Slept in the dry bed of the Lunkesi, which enters the Luvilombo, and 
 that goes on to the Lufira. Feet very sore and troublesome. I 
 noticed that one of the men who acted as guide for Commander Le 
 Marine! was a victim of African cruelty, having no hands, ears, or 
 nose. I was surprised to find him so cheerful. 
 
 i^th. — After crossing a stream called the Luengi we climbed some 
 high mountains and entered upon a flat open country with fine 
 scenery, and shot three harte beests and a buffalo. The altitude was 
 5,400 feet, and the cold was intense, so that to keep warm we went 
 to bed at 6.30, and in the morning started with our hands in our 
 pockets and our hats pulled over our ears. This was not "Afric's 
 burning sands," but in a {^yi days, on lower ground, the temperature 
 will be very different. There were no people there, but many ant 
 hills twenty feet high or more. 
 
 BOILING SPRINGS. 
 19///. — Camped at Kafungwe, a good-sized stream of very hot 
 water. After dinner we visited the springs, and were surprised to 
 find the water literally boiling. It was bubbling up out of the ground 
 in many different places, and everywhere a strong sulphurous smell 
 prevailed, with many large beds of sulphurous deposit all around. 
 The natives say that no white man has visited these springs. Our 
 guide pointed out one of the beds, saying that every animal or man 
 that went on it immediately disappeared. We doubted this, and, 
 going to see, of course we found it to be untrue. Out of curiosity I took 
 some potatoes, and in a remarkably short time after putting them into 
 the water they were cooked ; so we sat down and enjoyed them very 
 much. Everything was so hot that 1 could compare it with nothing 
 else than taking a meal in a Turkish bath. Few pots and pans would 
 be necessary here, as all food could be cooked in the stream. Around 
 the springs the sand is nearly white, with a great deal of mica in it. 
 There are many palm trees (Borassus) about the place. I have taken 
 a small bottle of the water and some of the deposit to be examined 
 in Europe. When we left camp this morning we were surprised at 
 the number of people who turned out to witness our departure. 
 Judging from the size and number of the villages, we estimated that 
 the population must be 3,000, if not more. At one of the villages all 
 the people wore head-dresses of dried banana leaves. We passed one 
 very large village of the Va-lovale, who have emigrated to these 
 
iSgi.] Valuable Palm Trees. 95 
 
 parts. I knew some of them, having seen them at Msidi's capital. 
 The villages are all well fortified. They are first palisaded with large 
 trees ; then immediately outside of this a trench is dug, eight or ten 
 feet deep, and the earth is thrown up against the trees. By the action 
 of the rains and heat this earth becomes caked and hard, and within 
 they feel safe from the attacks of their enemies. 
 
 20///. — Camped on the N.w. side of the Lualaba, which here runs 
 N.E. The chief of the people is Chamatowa, and the tribe is known 
 as Vene Kayombo, but all are Va-luba. At the point where we 
 crossed, the river is very beautiful, and I judge about 150 yards wide. 
 It is two marches below where the Lubudi enters. On either side of the 
 river are hundreds of palm trees, the first of the species I have seen. 
 They give a very pleasing appearance to the place, and are about the 
 most useful trees the natives have. From the fruit is taken the thick 
 red palm oil, which is used both for food and oiling their bodies and 
 weapons of war. The leaves are used to make baskets, and the large, 
 strong ribs help to construct houses. From the heart, low down in 
 the tree, a kind of fibre is obtained, from which a strong and durable 
 cloth is woven. The heart in the higher part of the tree is a 
 substance not unlike cabbage, which is serviceable as food. When the 
 tree is young it has large thorns on the leaves, and they are used as 
 fish-hooks. By the insertion of a tube immediately under the leaves 
 the palm wine is obtained — a very pleasant drink when fresh, but it 
 ferments after a time and becomes intoxicating. On the Congo it is 
 used instead of yeast in making bread. The wine has various native 
 names, the most common of which are Nalufu, Mulufu, and Tum- 
 wemwe. There must be considerably over 1,000 inhabitants here, 
 and there are many villages not far away, both above and below. 
 They seem very peaceful and happy, and know nothing about Arabs. 
 We are the first white men they have seen, and from the way they 
 crowded round us it was plain they had determined to make the best 
 of the opportunity. Before reaching the Lubudi mouth there are 
 rocks in the river, but below it is quite navigable everywhere as far as 
 Lake Upemba, and how much further the natives don't know, as they 
 have never attempted to go beyond. It takes two days to reach 
 Upemba in a canoe. They say the first lake they enter on going 
 down is called Kabwe. On the road to-day I shot three antelopes 
 (harte beest). 
 
 2\st. — Lualaba River. — Here we rest to-day to buy food, make 
 enquiries about the road, etc. In the afternoon we crossed the river 
 and saw old Chamatowa, who gave us a goat. This is really a 
 beautiful place, and I trust will soon be occupied by ambassadors for 
 Christ.* 
 
 * It is this neighbourhood that Mr. Swan is now aiming to reach. — F.S.A, 
 
96 Bihe and Garenganze. [July, 
 
 ii.iid. — Passed one very large village just before climbing the 
 mountains. It was palisaded, and must have been nearly 400 yards 
 long and half as broad. The occupants are Vene Bundwe. Camped 
 at Kakeso's villages. I scarcely know what to think or what to do as 
 I ponder the solemn fact that in this 19th century after the birth of 
 our blessed Lord all these people have never so much as heard His 
 name. How gladly would I stop short and settle in any one of these 
 places ; but I trust my visit home may lead some young men (oh, 
 that it may be many /) to devote themselves to the noble work of 
 bringing light and life to these dark parts, and thus I shall be accom- 
 plishing in the end more than I could do, were I to stay, single- 
 handed. 
 
 FROM THE LUALABA RIVER TO THE SANKURU. 
 
 2/\.th. — Camped near the Luila, a river which flows into the Lualaba. 
 The people are known as the Vene Kilamba. The tatooing of some 
 of them is very nicely done, and seems to take away from their 
 almost naked appearance. Unlike many tribes, they have no marks 
 on the face, but on the abdomen are horizontal tatooed lines with a 
 diamond-shaped figure in the centre, and two others lower down 
 sloping inwards. Very few in this part have guns — bows, arrows, and 
 spears being the principal arms. These people are within the range 
 of Msidi's domains. 
 
 June 2%th to July 2nd. — We passed many small rivers, as usual, 
 and near one, the Mukanga, were three or four villages under a chief 
 Bulunda, whose people are called the Bene Kishiko. Many old 
 elephant tracks were seen. At the Lueshi we camped amongst palm 
 trees, beautifully planted, which told of a depopulated country as 
 in other parts of Africa. The Luvoi river, which runs into the 
 Lualaba, was about fifteen yards wide and three feet deep. The 
 ground is marshy on either side, and must be difficult to cross in the 
 wet season. The natives. Bene Lunka, were very frightened. They 
 say there are many elephants, but none were visible, nor any antelopes 
 since the Lualaba was crossed. 
 
 July 3^^?'. — Reached the villages of Mbonde Kasandi. At this 
 point we entered M. Le Marinel's old road. The chief died three 
 or four days after the caravan passed at that time, and all the people 
 had moved away, but not far. It is quite the custom when a chief 
 dies to leave the old villages and build new ones. Came to the 
 Lumami river and camped on the N.w. side. At this season it is not 
 more than 12 yards wide and waist deep. Com. Le Marinel says he 
 found the latitude to be 8° 30' 30" s. It is a tributary of the Congo, 
 and is said to be known by the same name all the way. The country 
 is very similar to that through which we have been passing for the 
 
1891.] A Land of Rivers. 97 
 
 last three days, but trees are more plentiful. During the last day or 
 two we have seen a few antelopes, the first since crossing the Lualaba. 
 I can in no way account for the fact that nearly all the game is on the 
 other side of the Lualaba. Every day we are compelled to burn the 
 grass to get a clear place for our camp ; and as the fire goes roaring 
 away for miles, I am reminded of James iii. 5. 
 
 4///.— Crossed what may be termed the backbone of the country, 
 and reached the Luenga, running into the Luemba, an affluent of the 
 Sankuru. Camped near Bonda Lenge's village. In all we crossed 
 to-day no less than twelve streams and rivers. 
 
 Jth. — Forded the Lubisi, about 15 yards wide. Some of the 
 carriers passed over a large bridge made of runners, higher up. This 
 river also goes into the Lubelash. Camped at Kanemba's villages. 
 These have no palisadings, and are simply built in the midst of 
 banana plantations. Wood is more abundant, but cannot be said to 
 be plentiful. The people are very nice, and some wore good strong 
 cloth, about the size of aprons, their own make. 
 
 Zth. — Passed thirteen streams. All the villages in these parts are 
 built in the midst of banana and palm plantations, and are very 
 pleasant. When Com. Le Marinel came here on his way to Garen- 
 ganze, a woman with a few things she was carrying was stolen. In 
 anticipation of our approach they all fled, so we dined under the 
 palms in one of their villages. In some of the fetish houses I noticed 
 heads with very long ears, rudely carved in wood. We walked for 
 nearly three hours along a very good road, which the natives keep 
 clean for two or three feet on either side. Passed a human skeleton 
 in the path, shortly after leaving one of the villages from which the 
 people had fled. As a rule they seem to give their dead a decent 
 burial, and there are many nicely-kept graves on either side of the 
 main road. 
 
 THE LUBELASH OR SANKURU RIVER. 
 ()th. — Camped at Mutombo Mukulu's, on the south bank of the 
 Lubelash, as the Sankuru is called in these parts. We will cross it 
 here, and again at Lusambo, the State station. It forms a kind of 
 bow, running north and then west to the Kasai river. Our march 
 will form, so to speak, the string of the bow. On arriving here 
 Mutombo Mukulu came to meet us with a goat as a present. After a 
 little pleasant conversation he got on his young men's shoulders and 
 returned to his village. In the afternoon his son brought M. Le 
 Marinel a woman. That gentleman said she had better stay where 
 she was, but he knew the young man's heart and would not forget 
 him. Mutombo and his people are surprised to hear me speak the 
 language. In the afternoon we visited his village, and I clearly 
 
98 BiJd and Garenganze, [July, 
 
 explained to him the dift'erence between the Belgians' mission and mine, 
 and then asked if he would like missionaries to come and live in his 
 country. The idea seemed to please him much. He presented the 
 Commander with a large tooth of ivory. His village is very clean 
 and orderly. On one of his fetish houses I noticed perhaps 100 
 heads hanging, and was told they were the heads of the Bachoko, 
 taken over a year ago when one of their plundering parties attacked him. 
 
 The country of the Bachoko is marked on the Portuguese map 
 (1866) as Kiogo, a little to the N.N.w. of Peho, in the Chibokwe 
 country. They have caused a great deal of devastation in the Luba 
 and Lunda countries. It was they, and not the Lovale people, who 
 killed old Mwate Yanvo. His son was taken prisoner, but made his 
 escape and took refuge with Mutombo Mukulu. Perhaps twenty years 
 ago a caravan of Bachoko visited these parts for trading purposes, and 
 the present chief's brother plundered them. They then got help from 
 a neighbouring chief, returned, took the capital, and cut off the chief's 
 head. When things became quieter the present Mutombo claimed 
 the chieftainship, but he has not the power ot his brother. He com- 
 pels his people to clear the road for great distances. He is about 
 fifty years old, tall and well formed ; very fond of palm wine, and 
 when under its influence it is difficult to keep his attention for more 
 than a minute or two. His capital is very central — four days from 
 Mwate Yanvo's old place; six or seven from Kasongo's (see Cameron), 
 E.N.E. between the Luemba and Lumami ; seven from Muzembe's 
 (known as Kanioka), n.n.w., in the angle made by the Jabwi and 
 Luele streams. Mutombo's country extends from the Luemba to a 
 few miles on the west side of the Lubelash. 
 
 \2th. — Crossed four streams, and camped in an old village. Country 
 very well populated ; passed quite a number of villages, one of which 
 took us fifteen minutes to walk through. As usual, they are surrounded 
 with palm and banana trees. 
 
 x^th. — Reached the Lubelash, and, contrary to our expectation, 
 were able to cross at once. Here the river is about 90 yards wide, 
 but there are many rocks to hinder navigation. I enjoyed a swim 
 across. On the south side we received the news that Muzembe had 
 killed Chibweyanga and many of his people. As Luhata and Chib- 
 weyanga were living on friendly terms, the son of the latter and a 
 number of people had crossed the river for safety. Muzembe's raiders 
 had plundered most of the villages on the north side, so we did not 
 expect to see many people for some distance. According to reports 
 Mpande Mutombo — a chief some four days higher up the Sankuru 
 river than the State station — has fallen upon Muzembe's unprotected 
 villages and laid them waste, and he was hastening back with all 
 possible speed. 
 
1 89 1.] The Unburied Dead. 99 
 
 \-]th. — We left camp accompanied by Chibweyanga's son and heir, 
 who promised to guide us through his late father's country. He did 
 not go far, but provided us with guides. Our path lay along the valley 
 of the Lubelash with a range of mountains on our left. The road 
 was very bad, with many swamps, some waist deep. It will be very 
 difficult, if not impossible, to pass this way with a heavy-laden caravan 
 in the wet season ; but there is probably a better road further west. 
 In one of the streams we saw the httle dead body of some poor boy, 
 perhaps eight years of age. A little further on a cloth and a club were 
 lying on the ground, stained with the blood of some poor unfortunate. 
 As we went along we were now and again conscious of a very bad 
 stench, probably from dead bodies thrown into the long grass. Many 
 of the natives ran away as we approached. 
 
 2 1 J-/. —About two and a half hours after leaving camp we reached 
 the Luilu river, or, as it is called here, the Luela ; but being unable 
 to ford it we went lower down, following its course for about an hour, 
 to the usual place for crossing in canoes. The natives on the opposite 
 bank all fled on seeing us, but soon understood that we were friends, 
 and came with the canoe. The loads were ferried across, but most of 
 the men swam. 
 
 22nd. — Immediately after leaving camp we crossed the Ohio river, 
 and again about an hour after. Between these two points of crossing 
 are many villages of the Bene Luaba. Their chief is Kanangila. 
 Camped at the villages of the Bene Kalume. The country was hilly 
 and very bare. Still in Muzembe's territory. Two women came to the 
 camp yesterday, and the first we saw was when passing through the 
 villages this morning. When the women keep out of the way it is a 
 sure indication that suspicions as to your intentions are afloat. The 
 villages are not palisaded, and the men are poorly armed. 
 
 z^rd. — Passed the Bene-Beya's villages, where the houses are very 
 small. Near here is a native market place called Kaniki. At 11 
 a.m. we reached the Bushimai river, and were all able to cross in 
 about two hours. The Bushimai, Lubelash or Sankuru (see i6th), 
 and Luemba are the three great branches of the Kasai river. 
 Here the Bushimai runs about N.N.w. We are now in M. Le 
 Marinel's old road again. 
 
 24//?.— Passed the villages of the Bene Kabuya, which are quite 
 numerous, and are surrounded with palm and banana trees. On 
 the top of one of the hills is the market place, called Mulumba. A 
 little beyond the village is the Musasa, a fine stream of clear water, 
 nine or ten yards wide, but only eighteen inches deep at this time. 
 Roughly speaking, this stream may be said to be the Hmit of the 
 Kanioka country. We reached the market of Dye about 1 1 a.m., and 
 camped a little further on, amongst palm and banana trees. This 
 
lOO Bihe and Garengajtse. [Aug. 
 
 market is held every five days, and is known all through the country. 
 At one time slaves and ivory were sold in it, but now the commodities 
 are generally food, palm oil, bananas, meal, corn, etc. Each market 
 has a chief to see that fair trading is carried on, and it takes its name 
 from him. Yesterday and during the beginning of to-day's journey 
 especially we were surprised at the number of little mounds dotted all 
 over the country within a few yards of each other. Some of the 
 natives build their huts on the top of them, and they have quite a 
 pleasing appearance. For some days we have noticed many elephant 
 tracks. There are no tsetse in any of these countries. The natives 
 say that a raiding party of the Bachoko passed this way not long ago. 
 2Sth. — Camped at the Bakwa Bumba villages. Their chief is 
 Mukufumani. We hope (d.v.) to reach Chikunga's to-morrow ; he is 
 a Bashilange chief. Some men from his village are here and will 
 accompany us ; they came to greet us, bowing down and touching the 
 ground with their foreheads. 
 
 FAMILIES OF THE BA-SHILANGE TRIBE. 
 
 26th. — We saw many very deep animal traps ; a large snake had 
 fallen into one, and I shot it. Both yesterday and to-day the country 
 has been very hilly, making travelling somewhat heavy. Reached 
 Chikunga's villages. The people are Bashilange of the Bakwa 
 Mbui family. Everywhere in these countries the people smoke 
 diainba (similar to Indian hemp), but I never saw so many do so as 
 here ; even the little children are addicted to the habit. As they sat 
 beside our tents, the pipe — a very large gourd with a hole in the side 
 to admit the pipe head, the smoke being drawn through the neck- 
 was passed round, while they all joined in the " diamba song." 
 
 iWi. — All this country is thickly planted with palm trees, and is 
 hilly. Camped at Kalala's. More people than yesterday — camp 
 crowded with them. Most of them have their noses bored, and a 
 little string of beads passed through the hole. Little children are to 
 be seen in crowds. Here I see no bows and arrows ; the men are 
 fairly well armed with guns, and, judging from the number fired, are 
 not pinched for powder. One or two of the natives here have been 
 in the State employ, and one young man speaks broken English. 
 Brass wires (known as mitako) take very well here, and M. Le 
 Marinel says they quite pass as money in all the Ba-shilange country. 
 I have seen very few more promising countries than this of the 
 Ba-shilange for gospel effort. These people are of the Bakwa Mpata 
 family. 
 
 ■yith. — Passed the villages of the Bene Kashiye and Bene Samba 
 and camped near those of the Bene Kasambwe. The latter family is of 
 the Bakwa Kalosh tribe. General character of country mountainous 
 
iSgi.] Burnt Villages. 1 01 
 
 and very thinly wooded. Population considerable, but much scattered 
 on the mountain tops. The natives are very different in appearance 
 from those we left yesterday ; they dress the hair in a hat-like shape in 
 front with a kind of cover for the neck behind. Saw only two guns 
 all day. Near our camping ground we found a little child which had 
 been forsaken by its mother, in quite an emaciated condition. The 
 Commander had it taken back to its village. The desire to spend my 
 life amongst the Africans increases the more I see and know of them. 
 
 31^/. — Saw the Lubi river three or four times on our left as we 
 passsed along. Camped at the Bakwa Tombolo villages. We stayed 
 about two hours near the Kabangai and had breakfast. Many 
 hundreds of natives came crowding round ; they are the wildest 
 Africans I have seen, and might be dangerous, but they have no arms 
 except the spear (mostly made of wood and poisoned) and the knife ; 
 not even a bow was to be seen till near mid-day, when I saw what 
 was meant for one, but it was poor enough. The slightest movement 
 on our part was sufficient to make them run off in alarm. There are 
 no large villages, but hundreds of small ones scattered all over the 
 country, and I am inclined to think, were it possible to make an 
 estimate, that it would probably be the most densely populated country 
 we have passed through on this journey. Crowds followed us from 
 the Kabangai to our camping ground two hours and a half further on. 
 As I write this they are making a tremendous hubbub outside, and some 
 are falling over the ropes of my tent, having got a fright. Perhaps a 
 white man has been seen to move ! Rain has already fallen in these parts. 
 
 August 1st. — Crossed the Mulenda river. It was very foggy all the 
 morning, and we were able to walk along unobserved by the natives, 
 with the exception of a few close to the road. The country is still 
 mountainous, but the roads are not so heavy, as the mountain tops 
 are longer. Trees with the exception of palms are very scarce. 
 
 2fid. — The country is very beautiful, mountainous, and singularly 
 picturesque, with thousands of palm trees covering the summits, and 
 crowded together in the valleys, through which numerous streams of 
 deliciously cool water flow on their serpentine course to the Lubi 
 river. In the midst of all this beauty, burnt villages and devastated 
 crops tell of the destroying hand of man. 
 
 2trd. — The country still mountainous and well wooded. Near the 
 Kisapu there is a forest. Reached the comparatively new villages of 
 Kosh. On arriving we learned that Mpania Mutombo had returned 
 to his villages, having made Kosh his prisoner. All the people here 
 are of the Bambwe tribe, but represent many families, the Bakwa 
 Fika, Bakwa Lomonio, Bakwa Loka, Bakwa Ngoi, Bene Mwabai and 
 others. Lusatnbo is five (caravan) days from this point, and messengers 
 have been sent forward to announce our approach. 
 
102 Bihi and Garenganze. [Aug. 
 
 4//i. — An hour and a half after leaving Kosh's villages we entered 
 a dense forest, and were an hour and a half before coming to an 
 opening large enough to camp. It would not have taken more than 
 an hour to walk the distance, but the road had to be made passable 
 for those coming on behind with loads. Camped at the Bene Kapela 
 villages, where the State people have one of their out-posts. The 
 Bene Kapela are of the Bambwai tribe. 
 
 AFRICAN ANTIPATHIES. 
 
 Not far distant from these parts many of the Luba people have the 
 combination " Bashila" in their family name. For instance, the Ba- 
 shilange (Kalamba's people), Ba-shilambwa, Ba-shilanzefu. M. Le 
 Marinel and I were talking over the probable meaning of the combi- 
 nation. We knew that Ba was a plural prefix, but it was not until 
 after some thought that I remembered that the word sliila (sometimes 
 cJiila or Jila) is that which the Luba people use for "antipathy." If I 
 were to ask the Yeke people why they do not eat zebra flesh, they 
 would reply " Chijila" i.e., " It is a thing to which we have an anti- 
 pathy ;" or perhaps better, " It is one of the things which our fathers 
 taught us not to eat." The Biheans use the word chi-kola to express 
 the same thing. The words nge, mbwa, nzefu in the above combi- 
 nation mean respectively leopard, dog, elephant. So it seems as 
 though the word Ba-shihinge means " The people who have an 
 antipathy to the leopard;" the. Ba-skilambtva, "Those who have an 
 antipathy to the dogj" the Ba-shilanzefu, "Those who have an 
 antipathy to the elephant."* We called a native, and after a great deal 
 of questioning he understood what we were driving at, and we found 
 our conclusion to be correct. He then told us how the Ba-shilambwa 
 and Ba-shilanzefu got their names. At one time they were only known 
 as the Ba-shilambwa because they considered it was wrong to eat the 
 dog. But one day a number of them went across the Lubi river to 
 hiint elephants and stayed many days, during which rains had fallen, 
 the river became much swollen, and when the hunters returned they 
 could not cross. While they were wondering what to do an elephant 
 came past, and seeing that they were troubled, asked what was the 
 matter. They were all much surprised, of course, to hear the elephant 
 speak. But it went on, saying they must not be surprised, for it 
 was a human being like themselves ; they could not cross the 
 river, but it could very easily, and advised them to get on its 
 back, which they did, and reached the other side in safety. Ever 
 since that time they have refused to eat the flesh of the elephant, 
 and are now known as the Ba-shilanzefu. I was stopped in 
 
 * An alternative translation might be, " Tiiose who hold the elephant 
 sacred," — F. S.A, 
 
iSgi.] Cannibalism Stopped. 103 
 
 writing this to go outside and witness the " diamba dance " by 
 some of the Ba-shilange natives (who are going with us on a visit 
 to Lusambo), a most curious twisting of the waist and shaking of 
 the hands. 
 
 bth. — Passed through dense forest till we reached the villages of 
 the Bakwa Ngombe where we camped. Altogether it has taken 
 about nine hours to walk through the forest. Here is another of the 
 State out-posts with three soldiers, one of whom speaks a little 
 English. 
 
 ']th. — Followed the course of the Lubi river and camped at a village 
 of the Basongo tribe. The country is hilly and well wooded, with 
 forest near the streams. On reaching here we were met by the letter 
 bearers from the State station. 
 
 9/'/^.— Started at 5.40 a.m., and reached the Sankuru River at 
 8.50 a.m. We arrived earlier than we expected, and the white men 
 were not there to meet us, but in a very few minutes the little steam 
 launch put in her appearance, bringing Messrs. Micheaux and 
 Peterssen. Having crossed the river, forty-five minutes walk down 
 the right bank brought us to 
 
 LUSAMBO STATION ON THE SANKURU RIVER. 
 
 The people here are tall and good-looking ; they are of the Ba-kuba 
 tribe, and are well known for their cannibalism. Further north 
 human flesh is sold in their markets. Some time ago Zapu Zap, a 
 Bakuba chief, much higher up the Sankuru, hearing of Kalamba's 
 country (on the Lulua river), decided to emigrate there. He arrived 
 safely with a very large following. The State agent pointed out a 
 site for their village, and they were soon settled and well pleased with 
 the change. One day a man had a woman slave to dispose of, and 
 thinking it would be more profitable to sell her in pieces, he killed 
 her, cut her in parts, and sold the flesh for food. The State agent got 
 hold of the man and hanged him at once. Since then they have 
 never heard of one case of cannibalism in that village. The Sankuru 
 here runs n.n.w., and is about 350 yards wide. 
 
CHAPTER XI. 
 
 Jprom Husambo to IBnglantr bp tf)e ®ongo. 
 
 (September, 1891, to February, 1892.) 
 
 AFTER a stay of twelve days at Lusambo Mr. Swan visited 
 another Free State station — Luluaburg, on the Lulua river, 
 a branch of the Kasai. He varied his route to and from this 
 place, as shown on the map, first retracing his steps for 
 ten days towards Garenganze, and then striking westward ; 
 but on returning to Lusambo he made a circuit northward, so 
 as to see as much of the people and country as possible. 
 
 At one large Ba-shilange village of 4000 people he asked 
 the chief if he would not like white people to come and 
 teach his people the words of God. Having probably had some 
 experience of white people the old man cautiously said that 
 he would give a definite answer when he saw the missionaries. 
 Not a few people had fled from their own country because of 
 trouble with the whites. Everywhere Mr. Swan was able to com- 
 municate with the people through the Luba language. 
 
 At Luluaburg he made the following note in his Diary : 
 
 Sept. i^th, 1891. — Dr. Summers, of Bishop Taylor's mission, came 
 here in October, 1886, and died May, 1888. This morning I went 
 down and saw his grave, and as I bowed over all that remained 
 of him on earth, I thanked God for the noble attempt he made 
 to bring the gospel to the Bena Lulua ; and asked that, if it 
 were His will that I should take up the work he was not permitted to 
 do my way might be made plain. Later on I made arrangements 
 to have the grave covered with a simple shed. Two others, officers 
 of the State, are lying by his side. 
 
 On returning to Lusambo he gave his general impression 
 of the interesting tribe among whom he had been journeying. 
 
Sept, 1891.] An Industrious People. 105 
 
 THE BA-SHILANGE. 
 
 These people are more civilized than any I have seen since I 
 left Msidi's. From what I saw of them I should think they would be 
 very accessible with the gospel. 
 
 I have already mentioned that they are great diamba smokers ; 
 in fact it is a kind of religious duty with them. They think it enables 
 them to speak well, and is good for the lungs ; but the first thing 
 that strikes one on entering their villages is the sound of coughing 
 on all sides. It was a great disappointment to me to find that 
 the State agent had driven Kalamba and all his people out of 
 their villages. 1 should much like to have seen this chief, having 
 heard not a little of him and his ways. Some years ago he forbade 
 his people to drink palm wine because it made them drunk and 
 caused many strifes between them, and he cut down all the palm 
 trees (a hint to people in home lands as to stopping the supply 
 of drink). For the same reason he hindered them from holding 
 a public market. In connection with their diamba smoking they 
 always sing. About three o'clock in the morning you may often 
 hear them shouting at the top of their voices, and this continues 
 till day-break. When sleeping near them, tired out with the previous 
 day's journey, you wish no better fate for the diamba than that which 
 the palm trees had. One white man, who is no friend of the Ba- 
 shilange, described them as " little monkeys," and though he meant 
 it in a bad sense, it is not far from the mark. They imitate the 
 whites in everything. They have a great desire for European 
 goods— make chairs like ours, and many wear clothes and coverings 
 for the head similar to ours, but not always so fine, being their 
 own make. They weave a very good strong cloth, sometimes 
 colour it, then make vests and jackets. They are very numerous, 
 and build larger villages than any I have seen in Africa. The 
 last village I slept at had over 2000 people, and it is not considered a 
 large one. 
 
 Another tribe, some miles higher up the river, is briefly 
 referred to : 
 
 THE BAKUBA. 
 
 The natives of this part are splendid paddlers, and it is a very fine 
 sight to see ten or fifteen of them in one of these big canoes, singing 
 and keeping time with their long paddles. Though very small 
 they seem healthy and strong. They cover their bodies with red 
 earth and oil, wear a short cloth of their own manufacture, which 
 is dyed like their bodies. Though they readily trade in European 
 cloth it is a very rare thing to see any one wearing it, as they prefer 
 their own. Many of them have light brown, and some even grey eyes, 
 
 H 
 
io6 Bike and Garenganze. [Nov. 
 
 which give them a very pecuhar appearance ; their eyes are also 
 much smaller than those of most Africans that I have seen. 
 
 Mr. Swan was sad at the thought of these tribes being still 
 without any servants of Christ to deliver Ciod's message of love, 
 though the Free State officials have quite a footing in these parts, 
 and are bringing the people into subjection. The country 
 is generally well-watered, as indeed is most of this part of 
 Central Africa. The height above the sea is of course much less 
 than on the high level between Bihe and (iarenganze, as the 
 abundance of palms also shows, and the climate is more 
 tropical. 
 
 The time had now come for Mr. Swan to pursue his journey 
 towards England. All difficulties as to carriers and chiefs, 
 which are so familiar between the West Coast and Garenganze, 
 were for a time unknown, and instead of tedious and toilsome 
 marches there was the easy descent of Africa's great rivers — ■ 
 the Sankuru, the Kasai, and the Congo — in a small steam-vessel. 
 Yet hindrances and sorrows were not absent. 
 
 FROM LUSAMBO TO THE MOUTH OF THE CONGO. 
 
 ^th November, 1891, on board the Ville de Brnxelles. — We are now 
 steaming down the Sankuru river, on our way to Stanley Pool. In 
 leaving Lusambo I could not but feel deeply grateful to Monsieur Le 
 Marinel and his fellow-officers for their unselfish kindness to me. 
 We are five white men on board — Messrs. Sandrart (an invalid), 
 Pillet, the captain, engineer, and myself. The lower deck is crowded 
 with natives going down to Leopoldville for the service of the State. 
 
 Ztli. — Reached the mouth of the Sankuru, where there is a State 
 outpost. There is also a Belgian trading station here under the 
 management of a Frenchman. Yesterday we met the steam-launch 
 belonging to Lusambo ; it had been down as far as Stanley Pool. A 
 Roman Catholic missionary was on board, and he said it was his 
 intention to settle at Kalamba's, in the Ba-shilange country, with 
 another priest who had gone round by Luebo. Mr. Pietersen (captain 
 and engineer of the steam-launch) said he had had considerable 
 trouble with the natives on his way, and the same day we were fired 
 at about 4 p.m. The banks of the Sankuru are thickly covered with 
 bush all the way. There are many sand-banks, which are continually 
 moving when the water is high, making navigation somewhat difficult, 
 but fortunately there are not many rocks to contend with. Hippos 
 there are, but not many. 
 
iSgi.] Stanley Pool. 107 
 
 <^th. — Last night I arranged with the captain to try to shoot a 
 buffalo or two, as the men have very little food, but was unsuccessful. 
 On returning to the steamer I was greatly shocked to hear that the 
 engineer, who had only been sick a few hours, was dead. A native 
 also died this morning. This afternoon the engineer was buried, and 
 having been invited by the captain to hold a service at the grave, I 
 made the best of the opportunity by seeking to reach the hearts of the 
 white men with God's truth. How long we may be compelled to stay 
 here it is impossible to say, as the captain has no authority to move 
 until he receives another engineer. 
 
 13///. — Yesterday the steamer Princess Clementine appeared about 
 1 1 a.m. with the chef of the State station at Luebo on board. On 
 hearing of the death of our engineer he made arrangements with the 
 captain of the other steamer to allow his engineer to go up with us, 
 as far as Luebo, for some 150 soldiers, whose time of service is 
 finished. We are now running up the Kasai ; two days will bring us 
 to the Lulua, and the day after we hope to reach Luebo. 
 
 15///. — At about 1.30 p.m. we anchored at Luebo. There are two 
 American missionaries here — Messrs. Lapsley and Shepherd. The 
 former soon made his appearance, and gave me a kindly welcome. 
 Mr. Shepherd was off in the villages, so I had not an opportunity of 
 seeing him. 
 
 1 8///.- — We steamed down the Kasai into the almost inky-black 
 waters of the great Congo, and this afternoon about 4 o'clock reached 
 Leopoldville, Stanley Pool. As I had some letters for Dr. Sims I 
 made my way up to the mission-station at once. He gave me a 
 warm, brotherly welcome, but I was sorry to find him in very poor 
 health ; he has had several bad bilious fevers since July last. In the 
 evening my soul was made glad by hearing the boys and young men 
 sing and speak of Jesus. The mission is very well kept and orderly. 
 
 19//^.— As carriers came more quickly than expected, I was able to 
 leave Stanley Pool after one day, accompanying Mr. Percy Comber, 
 of the E.B.M., who is going to their station at Ngombe. 
 
 29th. — We went off the main road to visit a station of the A.B.M., 
 where, three days before, a Swedish missionary had passed away to 
 his rest and reward. Mr. Frederickson, now left alone in charge of 
 the station, seemed very much discouraged, and it was our privilege 
 to seek to cheer him up. 
 
 30//^. — Reached Ngombe, and Messrs. Bentley, Davis, and 
 Cameron gave me a hearty welcome. Here I heard of the death of 
 Mr. Henry Groves, of Kendal. How many will miss his godly 
 sympathy and advice ! His letters to me in Africa often encouraged 
 and strengthened me in my work. May his Christ-like life be 
 imitated by all who knew him. 
 
io8 Bihe and Garenganze. [Dec. 
 
 December i,th, Litkunga. — I left Ngombe on the 2nd, and reached 
 Lukunga yesterday. It is customary to change carriers here, so I 
 shall not be able to start again before Monday, the 7th. Mr. Hoste 
 and his fellow-workers have plenty to do in these parts, and, best of 
 all, they seem to have hearts to do it. There are three churches, 
 besides the one here, with a membership of about four hundred, and 
 some sixteen schools. One cannot but thank God and take courage 
 when he sees such blessed results from the preaching of the simple 
 gospel. 
 
 iith, Banza Manteka. — It is a great joy to see here the workers 
 and converts about whom I have read so much. From Lukunga I 
 was compelled to take a hammock, my feet being very sore. 
 
 18/A, Matadi. — Though very unwell, I started from Banza 
 Manteka on the 14th, and reached this place yesterday, receiving a 
 kindly welcome from both the American and English missionaries. 
 On arriving I felt the symptoms of fever setting in, and, sure enough, 
 I was unable to get out of my bed the next morning, my temperature 
 quickly rising to 104° — a sure sign that I was drawing near the coast. 
 
 The road down from Stanley Pool is not a good one, and becomes 
 worse as one nears the coast. Food is very scarce and very dear. 
 As far as Lukunga the country is fairly well wooded, with bush here 
 and there, but below that it becomes very barren, and comparatively 
 few trees are to be seen. At various points one gets a sight of the 
 Congo, wending its way among the bare mountains. The heat is very 
 oppressive, and must be considerably greater than we generally have 
 in the Garenganze. It is now very clear to me that we cannot think 
 of this as a suitable route for us. The expense would be much 
 greater, as it costs nearly as much to take a load from the coast to 
 Stanley Pool, as from Benguella to Garenganze. At present there is 
 a great block in the transport, the State having some 4,000 or 5,000 
 loads that they cannot get sent up, and how many the missions have 
 I cannot say. Even were the railway finished, it would not be worth 
 our while to attempt to reach Garenganze this way. The climate is 
 decidedly unhealthy, compared with that of our old road. 
 
 FROM LUSAMBO TO ENGLAND. 
 
 While the distance from Lusambo to Stanley Pool was traversed 
 by steamer in twelve days, including a considerable detour to 
 Luebo, the journey by road from Stanley Pool to Matadi, not far 
 from the mouth of the Congo, occupied four weeks. For 
 Europeans the ascent of the Congo was for ages hindered by the 
 cataracts ; but of late years the road that runs in the direction of 
 the river has been much used, and with great labour a good 
 
1 89 1.] Mr. Swan reaches England. 109 
 
 many small steamers have been taken up to Stanley Pool in 
 sections by carriers. Before very long the railway will doubtless 
 allow of this part of the journey being accomplished in a very 
 short time, and the amount of river traffic that will then take 
 place can scarcely be estimated. It is to be hoped that then the 
 messengers of the gospel will also have free access to much of 
 the interior of Africa included in the vast Congo Free State. 
 With all the difficulties of the West Coast high-level way to 
 Garenganze, Mr. Swan's experience leads him, however, to prefer 
 it to the route by the rivers. 
 
 His own health suffered in the homeward journey, and the 
 number of deaths, both among whites and blacks, which took 
 place on the way was very considerable. Among those whom 
 he saw in health were Mr. Comber and afterwards Mr. Wilmot 
 Brooke, but tidings of their falling asleep very soon followed him. 
 
 We bring this chapter briefly to a close by mentioning that 
 Mr. Swan embarked at Matadi in an ocean steamer bound for 
 Hamburg. Having called at Boma and Banana, the Akassa on 
 December 31st got out to sea, the fresh breezes of which, after 
 some years' stay in the heart of Africa, Mr. Swan found to be 
 very invigorating. Several places were touched at — Akassa, on 
 the Niger (where Mrs. Wilmot Brooke embarked in ill-health, her 
 husband returning up the river). Sierra Leone, etc. ; and on the 
 3rd of February, 1892, Mr. Swan landed at Deal by a pilot boat 
 after six years' absence from his native land. 
 
 During his sojourn in England he sought by visiting various 
 places to further the already warm interest in the spread of the 
 gospel in Central Africa, and gave some time to prepare a small 
 book on the hitherto unwritten Luba language, which will be a 
 help to any who desire to make the Saviour known to the many 
 tribes which speak that tongue. 
 
CHAPTER XII. 
 
 ii^r. ©Ijompson's return to Garengan?e. 
 
 (October to December, 1891.) 
 
 BEFORE taking up the narrative of events in Garenganze 
 after Mr. Swan's departure, it may be helpful to furnish 
 some account of Mr. Thompson's return journey to Garenganze 
 from Nana Kandundu, to which place he had gone, en route, 
 with the little party that went to open work there as stated in 
 chapter ix. 
 
 EXTRACTS FROM MR. THOMPSON'S DIARY. 
 
 October 26th, 1891. — ^Left Nana's, and reached Kapenda, about 
 fifteen miles. Found the village forsaken, the people having fled from 
 the Va-lovale, some to Kapa, and some across the Zambesi. 
 
 November 1st. — During the night some one quietly entered the 
 camp, gently put aside the thatching of a hut, cut open a bale of a 
 Bihean trader, and extracted fifteen pieces of cloth. 
 
 2nd. — Camped in forest after about eighteen miles. Great heat, 
 succeeded by a heavy thunderstorm, with hail. Found that the man 
 from whom cloth was stolen had taken a boy from the village. I 
 rebuked him sternly, and gave the boy a little cloth to take back to his 
 aged and frail mother, whom my servant told me he had seen weeping 
 by the roadside, saying that the only child she had left to draw water 
 and fetch firewood was being taken away from her. 
 
 7//^.— Reached Kapa. Small-pox having again broken out in the 
 caravan I must leave all the patients here. Mr. Arnot told me that 
 when he was in Garenganze two natives took the disease, and Msidi 
 forthwith had them both put to death. I have told this to the Bihdans 
 and hope it will have a deterring effect upon them. Found a Bailundu 
 man in camp, who had returned from the Lualaba ; he reports that 
 the ferry is in possession of those who hate Msidi. This is a dark 
 outlook, but having come thus far I must press on. 
 
 \2th. — Two Garenganze men and four Zanzibaris arrived in my 
 camp to-day with a letter from Honjo, a mulatto trader. They and 
 
Nov. 1891.] A Sight of African Warfare. 11 i 
 
 seven others were travelling with him, and were sent on ahead by 
 Honjo to convey a message to the Garenganze ; but the Va-lundu at 
 the ferry, who are now fighting against Msidi, set upon the party, and 
 killed three. Some ran into the forest, and the two who arrived here 
 to-day got off in another direction ; one of them has a bad spear 
 wound in his back. 
 
 i^th. — Reached the Lualaba river. I find Kazembe has not been 
 killed, as reported, but has fled, and the present possessor of the ferry 
 will most likely be very hard to deal with. His young men tried to 
 terrorize some of my carriers to-day. It was they who had killed the 
 Zanzibaris, and one of the victim's heads is in the village near us. 
 
 After a week's detention, and a very trying time with the petty 
 chiefs, whose demands were continuous and exorbitant, Mr. 
 Thompson was allowed to cross the Lualaba. 
 
 November 26th. — The Va-sanga from surrounding villages are 
 fleeing towards the Lualaba, fearing the arrival of a war party from 
 Msidi. 
 
 27//z.— Had an audience with the Sanga chief, Mulowanyama, who 
 says the Va-sanga will no longer be the slaves of Msidi, to have their 
 heads taken off at his pleasure. He spoke highly of Mr. Swan, saying 
 he refused, when asked by Msidi, to write to traders to bring powder 
 to him, and thereby he had saved the Va-sanga. " My path," he said, 
 "was open, but none of the men carrying powder could pass on to 
 Msidi ; they must remain here and trade." 
 
 29///. — The chief Mulowanyama called at camp to-day to say 
 he would give a guide to-morrow, but all having powder, he repeated, 
 must remain behind. This is a great hardship, as there is positively 
 no food here. 
 
 December ist. — Guide has not turned up yet, the ostensible reason 
 being the rain ; but this is nonsense, as many of the carriers have 
 left camp this morning to go to villages some fifty miles off in 
 search of food : we are suffering much from hunger. 
 
 2;/,r/.~This was a most exciting day. About 8.30 in the morning I 
 heard one of the men in camp shout out that a war party was 
 coming from Msidi against the Va-sanga. Going out of my hut 
 I saw men and women returning from the fields in hot haste, and 
 making for their villages beside our camp. Immediately I heard 
 the beat of a war drum, and a number of shots were discharged 
 in the bush, about 250 yards from our camp. The Biheans, fearing 
 that they might be attacked and plundered, got very e.xcited ; some 
 rushed to the wood, and cut down thick boughs with which to fence in 
 the camp ; others dressed themselves up in their best, and with 
 spear and gun stood prepared for an engagement ; while some 
 
112 Bild and Gareiiganze. [Dec. 1891. 
 
 bounded into the air, brandishing their guns and spears and 
 executing a war dance. Msidi's party caught about eleven of the 
 Va-sanga in the fields and forthwith decapitated them, as a quid 
 pro quo, I suppose, for those killed at the ford by the Va-sanga. 
 Among Msidi's men was one who, when the small party was 
 attacked at the Lualaba ferry, escaped, and, swimming the river, 
 carried Msidi word ; he had now returned with Mukandavantu, 
 Msidi's son, to prevent the Va-sanga from blocking our road. 1 
 persuaded them to return and thus avoid further bloodshed, to which 
 proposition they assented, and desisting from camp-building went 
 their way. Thank God, further fighting was thus avoided. 
 
 %th. — Arrived at the capital, Msidi gave me a warm reception. 
 What a change there is around the capital since last February ! 
 There is hardly any cultivation, because hundreds of people have fled, 
 and those who remain have sought to till the rocky, stony ground 
 around the villages, being afraid to venture to any distance lest 
 they should be set upon by the Va-sanga, who for some time have 
 been carrying on a night warfare against Msidi, burning houses 
 even in the chief's villages. Food cannot be bought here, so we 
 will give the chief his present and pass on to the Lufoi river, 
 where Messrs. Lane and Crawford have built small houses in which 
 to pass the rainy season. 
 
 iith. — Gave Msidi his present, which, besides some cloth, consisted 
 of a fine musical-box sent by Ur. Penhall, and a salver and cup from 
 friends in Glasgow. The old man was highly pleased with these, but 
 not so with our cloth ; he wanted more, and also powder. We 
 declined to give more, so were told to carry back the cloth we had 
 given, which we did. 
 
 15///. — Msidi sent for the cloth he had refused, and afterwards came 
 over to the village where we were, to say we were not to go to-morrow 
 to the Lufoi. At the same time he said that we " Englishmen knew 
 how to sit in a country." 
 
 \']t]i. — Early this morning this singular old man came over to greet 
 us and wish us a good journey, though the night before he said we 
 could not go. 
 
 19//?. — Arrived at the Lufoi, and passed on to the Congo Free 
 State Station, where the officer in charge kindly had much-needed 
 refreshment provided for us ; and in the evening we went to our own 
 unpretentious village. I was indeed glad to get to my journey's end, 
 for owing to anxiety and dearth of food it has been the most trying I 
 have yet made in this country. 
 
CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 BotontonrtJ CDoursc of (IBbents in Gnrcngnn?e. 
 
 (June to October, iSgi.) 
 
 WHILE Mr. H. B. Thompson was slowly pursuing his way 
 back to rejoin his companions, Messrs. Lane and 
 Crawford, at Msidi's capital, things generally were going ill there. 
 The disturbances among the Va-sanga, the original inhabitants of 
 the country, continued, and they were more and more breaking 
 away from Msidi's rule, helped in so doing, perhaps, by the 
 thought that the white men's soldiers rendered him powerless. 
 The fields were not cultivated, drought prevailed, and food was 
 becoming very scarce. Msidi had himself felt the necessity, before 
 Mr. Swan left, of removing his capital, and spoke of going to the 
 Lufira, a large river not far away. As the Belgian officers were 
 going to build a small fort near a branch of that river, the two 
 brethren determined to go there also, in the expectation that 
 Msidi would soon follow. The chief did not go, but they thus 
 escaped some of the trials that otherwise would have befallen 
 them. Mr. Crawford's pen gives us a good idea of how matters 
 stood. 
 
 MR. CRAWFORD'S NARRATIVE. 
 
 Mr. Swan left us on the 6th of June with the returning portion of 
 the Congo Free State caravan, very much against Msidi's will, who 
 tried many devices to prevent him, and finally, when he saw it was 
 impossible to do so, became bitter and rancorous against him. We, 
 the while, were taught what manner of man Msidi really was, by all 
 his unkind ways towards the servant of God who had oft helped him, 
 and we realised how wholly must our trust be in the Lord. 
 
 Two Belgian officers remained behind, and these, with some 
 seventy people, thirty-five of them soldiers, proceeded across the 
 Lufira river to the Litfoi, which runs into it. The scarcity of water 
 at the capital was very serious, and the quality was still more so. The 
 
114 BiJi-^ <^Ji(i Garenganze. [Oct. 
 
 Belgians were constrained to take this step, and here they are 
 building a station. We waited on at the capital for a short time, and 
 finally came here (two good days' journey), and fixed our site about 
 twenty minutes' walk up the Lufoi river from the c.F.s. station, and 
 on the opposite side. The "majestic range of mountains" on the 
 east of the Lufira, spoken of by Mr. Arnot, rises up behind us here, 
 quite hard by. Looked at from the Lufira fiats, this range seems like 
 a great unbroken wall of uniform height, stretching across the east- 
 ward path as far as the ej'e can reach. And, indeed, it is so 
 practically, as the traveller eastward-bound must sooner or later scale 
 it, though here and there it swerves from its otherwise straight course, 
 to form many beautiful, and often far-extending valleys, winding 
 through the centre of which are some good-sized streams that have 
 their springs far up among the mountains. The Lufoi is probably the 
 largest of such for a long distance around us, affording an abundant 
 supply all the year. The population, however, of these parts is very 
 small and, what is more unfortunate, very scattered, so much so that 
 we would never have felt warranted in building our village here, 
 merely on their account. We have, therefore, been cautious on this 
 point, and have only built two small mud houses, in which we can 
 pass the rainy season. This has simplified our mode of life 
 immensely, and left us with free hands to work " while it is day." 
 
 THE natives' fear OF THE STATE ARMY. 
 
 Regarding the Congo Free State enterprise here, we hope that their 
 coming will turn out for the furtherance of the gospel in this land. 
 The people are beginning to know that all white men are not the 
 same, and that we have come on a different errand from theirs. One 
 bit of practical experience Mr. Lane and 1 have gained by our close 
 residence to the State people is, that it very much hinders us from 
 getting at the people. To explain : Our brethren, who were formerly 
 here as God's witnesses in this land, by their " patient continuance in 
 well-doing " have bequeathed to us a very precious heritage — the 
 esteem and confidence of the people. Our Free State friends, on the 
 other hand, are new-comers, speaking a different language, with the 
 very up-hill work before them of assuring the natives that they seek 
 their welfare, when all the while they have trained soldiers armed 
 with breech-loading rifles. Opposite us, about three-quarters of an 
 hour on the other side of the Lufoi river, was a large double village, 
 the nearest and largest for a long distance. The two chiefs, Miramba 
 and Cipasia, always retained a very kindly attitude toward Mr. Lane 
 and me, and for many Sundays we held large gospel meetings in their 
 midst, ever receiving a warm and friendly reception. Latterly these 
 chiefs became very suspicious of the intentions of the Free State 
 
1 89 1.] Mail's Rebellioti against God. 1 1 5 
 
 ofificers towards them, until finally, under cover of night, all their 
 people fled down the Lufira river to Kasanga, where they are now 
 building another village. Simultaneously another chief, Mukevo, fled 
 to the mountains with his people, and there he remains. Now what 
 pains us sadly is, that these friends of ours have been separated from 
 us thus. Actually^ we know, they fled from the Congo Free State 
 officers ; but, alas ! practically, they have fled from us too ! We 
 therefore see how very advisable it is for us to be located a good 
 distance from these heralds of civilization. Africans are strangely, 
 often absurdly suspicious ; and if the State officials, by inapt ways, 
 repel the natives rather than gather them together, they must bear 
 the consequences and not we. 
 
 A few days ago Mr. Lane and I returned with our boys from a very 
 interesting journey down the Lufira. We were compelled to be very 
 cautious on our approach to villages, and made it a point ever to send 
 on ahead a messenger to explain who we were, and, thus assured, we 
 were always heartily received. We were the first white visitors to 
 these parts, and with joy we told many listening ones that God was 
 beseeching them by us, His messengers, to be reconciled to Him. I 
 am deeply convinced that " the gospel of the glory of the blessed 
 God " is never preached in its fulness when the rebellion that was and 
 is between fallen man and God is not sounded out. Thank God, 
 though the dialects of these people are barren of words bearing on 
 what is known as metaphysical truth, yet they have a vocabulary of 
 sufficient richness in words for them to hear with the ear God's gospel 
 of grace. 
 
 THE KASANGA VALLEY. 
 
 On the second day of our journey we entered the beautiful Kasanga 
 valley, to find many agreeable surprises awaiting us, in the form of 
 lovely country, a fine river, abundance of game, and, best of all, a 
 good number of people, among others our old friends who had fled 
 from the Lufoi. Miramba, when he heard we were coming, sent a 
 guide to conduct us to his village, and also a basket of fine white 
 flour. Their reception of us was most affecting, and we slept the 
 night in their village. On the morrow we crossed the Kasanga river, 
 at a point where it was narrow and deep flowing, and, after half an 
 hour's journeying over slightly rising ground, reached the village of 
 Cayo, which, though small, has more advantages than Msidi's big 
 capital. A little stream runs down by the side of the village from the 
 mountains into the Kasanga, and by the side of this streamlet for a 
 long distance nothing but tall banana trees are growing. Further 
 down, the course of this same streamlet is indicated as running 
 through Cayo's field, by the tall waving green corn — an almost 
 incredible sight in this dry season, when in other places everything in 
 
Ii6 BiM and Garenganze. [Oct. 
 
 the fields is dead, and remains so until the rains come. It is a well- 
 known fact, however, and one which we often heard stated before 
 coming here, that this Kasanga valley yields to the tillers of its soil 
 an all-year-round supply of fresh corn. There are in all six villages 
 in the valley, scattered at nice easy distances from each other, and 
 two up in the mountains, occupied by a strange, reclusive class of 
 people, called the Va-lomotwa. They are scattered all over this 
 mountain range, cultivate after a fashion, and seem very desirous of 
 being left alone in their fastnesses. Now and then we hear strange 
 things rumoured of their doings, and I long to reach them with the 
 word of life. 
 
 Mr. Lane and I were so "taken" with this valley, and the com- 
 paratively compact way the people are located, that we thought that 
 one day it might be a wise thing to place a station there. We entered 
 the valley on the right, and after crossing the river came down the left 
 side, hard by the mountains ; then recrossed the river at the mouth of 
 the valley. We found it flowing everywhere and nowhere, forming 
 one of Livingstone's " sponges," through which we had to laboriously 
 wade, knee deep, and often far deeper. Nowhere did we see the 
 river's direct channel, but we were informed that it regained a definite 
 course further down, and flowed into the Lufira. We slept four nights 
 in all in the valley, the second of which was in Cayo's banana grove ; 
 the last was amid a cluster of palm trees, tall and stately, at its mouth. 
 
 About a month previous to our visit, I had a very happy week's 
 journey up the Lufira with my boys (Mr. Lane, I am sorry to say, was 
 unable to be with me). Unfortunately, however, owing to the present 
 war, I was compelled to return after reaching Cikukuluka's town 
 (Msidi's youngest brother), as the next place beyond that was Likuku's 
 war-camp, into which 1 would have been glad to carry the message of 
 life, did I not know that a false use would be made by Msidi's men of 
 the fact that I had been there. Need I say, that during all this war 
 our position has been that of neutrality, not armed neutrality, but, I 
 trust, the real pilgritn neutrality, which is of God ? I am happy to 
 say that I have good reason to believe that the Va-sanga know we are 
 not aiding and abetting Msidi in his evil ways, and if in travelling one 
 day I did perchance receive a death wound, I could but believe that it 
 was all a mistake, to be regretted afterwards by the perpetrator. 
 
 msidi's illtreatment of the va-sanga. 
 I shall now endeavour, as succinctly and briefly as possible, to let you 
 know how matters have been going on in this country between Msidi 
 and the Va-sanga since you last heard from us. As you already know, 
 the casus belli alleged by the Va-sanga, is the death of the woman 
 Masengo ; but behind this almost trifling plea lie deep, deep-seated 
 
iSgi.] Friends Turned into Foes. 117 
 
 grudges of long-standing against Msidi's tyranny. As you know, the 
 Va-sanga carried on a night warfare at the capital, which went on for 
 a long time without Msidi's intervention. In fact, the chief seemed, 
 during it all, to be in a strange lethargic condition, quite unhke his 
 former self. The result of this seeming indifference on Msidi's part 
 was, that large numbers fled under cover of night from the capital ; 
 and among the many, poor Kagoma on the Likurwe, was glad to make 
 his escape. Msidi wanted some time ago to kill him on a charge of 
 witchcraft, but his counsellors intervened, and, thus foiled, he had 
 made Kagoma the subject of most exorbitant demands, in the endea- 
 vouring to meet which the poor man grew tired, and finally sought 
 refuge in flight. Kavimbi, one of Msidi's most trusted young warriors, 
 fled about the same time to Kazembe's, and his poor old father, with 
 stooped back and white wool on his head, in trying to follow his son, 
 was caught, carried back to Msidi (himself an old man), and speared 
 to death. Msidi seems to have lacked powder at the beginning of this 
 affair, but the coming of the Congo State caravan put him in a position 
 to make a big muster of war parties, who marched out, not long after 
 Br. Swan's departure, against the Va-sanga. Simultaneously, Likuku, 
 the chief's eldest brother, marched with a large war party up the west 
 side of the Lufira river, to protect the salt pan at Muashia. Mukan- 
 davantu, who drove out the Va-lukaluka raiders, was in command of 
 the former, and the direction in which he seems to have gone was s.w. 
 No opposition of any kind was encountered until the town of Kalun- 
 kumia was reached, where they found quite a Va-sanga stronghold. A 
 lot of firing seems to have taken place here, and, to be brief, the result 
 was that the Va-sanga were compelled to evacuate the town and flee 
 south, in the direction of Ntenke's. No chase seems to have followed, 
 and the war parties returned to the capital without striking any decisive 
 blow. For the last month or so there has been a lull in the stormy 
 condition of the country, though it is well known that several Sanga 
 chiefs (specially one, Mutwila) are sitting within their stockaded 
 villages, prepared for fight. 
 
 In all, during the last five or six months, Msidi has lost, I 
 believe, hundreds of people through flight, and I am informed that the 
 capital has quite a deserted look about it. Rather than venture 
 out far to the fields they were wont to cultivate, the people who 
 remain prefer tilling the poor stony soil along the mountain side. 
 The chief gives as his reason why he has not come here yet, that 
 he does not want his enemies to say of him that he has fled from 
 them. 
 
 KAZEMBE OF LAKE MOERO. 
 
 Kazembe, on the other side of the Luapula river, seems very 
 chary of receiving fugitives from Msidi's, fearing that by so doing 
 
ri8 BiJi('' and Garenganze. [Oct. 
 
 he will bring the latter's war parties upon him, though he little 
 knows how much Msidi, at this present time, needs every available 
 man for home troubles. The following instance will show how 
 very evident this fear of Kazembe's is. Not long ago one of Msidi's 
 wives fled to his country, but as she was a relative of the chief 
 Nsama (an old friend of Livingstone), whose country lies to the 
 north of Kazembe's, the latter demanded his relative, but Kazembe 
 refused to give her up, on the ground that to do so would be to 
 incur Msidi's displeasure, and the upshot of the matter has been 
 that Nsama has attacked Kazembe's outlying dependencies, and 
 it remains to be seen whether the latter will still persist in his 
 refusal. 
 
 "adaptation to environment." 
 
 Dear Frederick Lane and I find much joy and comfort in each 
 other's company, and it is mine to thank God for having had such a 
 companion during these past few months that we have been together. 
 Although the supply of cloth, which we brought in with us, has long 
 ago been finished, we have never^ no not one day, lacked any good 
 thing. There is a big, high-sounding scientific phrase — " adaptation 
 to environment"; well, all around us here in the animal world 
 we see this exemplified, in hundreds of different insects of the 
 grasshopper species, etc., whose colour most perfectly resembles 
 that of their haunts, making them almost invisible. But not least 
 among God's creatures have we. His children, been by grace helped 
 to adapt ourselves to our present surroundings, both in regard to 
 chmate and diet. The limitless supplies and channels which God 
 has at His disposal, to meet our every need in this land, takes 
 away any thought we may be tempted to entertain regarding our 
 being shut in helplessly here. We would joy in God all the day long, 
 knowing that in His own time our caravan will come. We have 
 been wonderfully supplied with fresh meat since the day we first came 
 here, and the kindness of our Free State friends down stream in this, 
 as in other matters, has been very great. On the Flats, near by, 
 the quantity of game is fabulous, while in the Lufira hippopotami and 
 crocodiles abound. 
 
 VARIETY OF DIALECTS. 
 
 Regarding the dialects of these parts, they are very numerous 
 and, with the exception of the Chiyeke, there is a great similarity 
 between them. The Luba, Sanga, Lamba, Lunda, Lomotwa, and 
 Oussi dialects have all many things in common. Of course the 
 natural result of these different dialects meeting and mixing at the 
 capital, and in the country generally, has been to form a sort of 
 mongrel dialect, known, I might almost say, by everybody. It is 
 
1891.] Chiluha Hymns. 119 
 
 a very rare occurrence to hear any of these dialects spoken in its 
 purity, but I have been able at different times to get from several 
 Lunda, Oussi, and Sanga people, help in the formation of vocabularies, 
 and I seek to take advantage of every opportunity afforded for the 
 enlarging of these. I am also making progress in Svvahili, the 
 language of Zanzibar, which, I believe, will be of no small use, 
 in the event of our working eastward. The Va-lungwana, as they are 
 called, are ubiquitous in the centre and east of Africa, and it would be 
 wise on our part to have beside us a little money in gold, as they 
 know our English sovereign to be equivalent to five dollars, and 
 no doubt would be willing to exchange for cloth. 
 
 OUR SERVICE AND INIODE OF LIFE. 
 
 I have written four hymns in Chiluba, to such tunes as " Stand up ! 
 Stand up ! for Jesus," " Hark, the gospel news is sounding," etc., 
 and these, with others written by dear Br, Swan, we sing at our 
 meetings here and in the villages. I have made no attempt at 
 rhyme, lest by so doing, ambiguity should result. Moreover, in 
 these parts it is unnecessary, as all the songs 1 have yet heard the 
 natives sing are void of "the jingling sounds of like endings." 
 
 We make a nice simple kind of bread out of sorghum meal, which 
 is one of our staple articles of diet ; and this with the fresh meat we 
 have always on hand gives us a healthy and regular food. To have 
 this, and to be content with it is, I believe, one of the prime conditions 
 of getting through work in Africa. Without doubt there are possibili- 
 ties in even bush kitchenry and mode of life that would surprise most 
 Europeans, but to aspire after these would mean very often the 
 obscuring of one's real object in coming hither, and the frittering away 
 of precious days in meeting the demands of self — subtle, greedy Self, 
 so hateful of being trampled on, and so desirous of being pampered. 
 
 " There is a man that often stands 
 Between me and Thy glory, 
 His name is Self ; my carnal Self 
 Stands 'twixt me and Thy glory. 
 Oh, mortify him ! Mortify him ! 
 Put him down, my Saviour ; 
 Exalt Thyself alone ; lift high 
 The banner of the cross, 
 And in its folds 
 Conceal the standard-bearer." 
 
 Despite the fact that there are drawn sides in the country at present, 
 and travelling is thereby rendered difficult, we have been, in the good- 
 ness of God, enabled in the past to move about with our boys in a noise- 
 less fashion, the smallness of our numbers quite disarming the 
 
120 BiJd and Garenganze. [Oct. 1891. 
 
 suspicions of even the most suspecting. We have no desire to pass 
 as " Msidi's white men," but simply from our real vantage ground 
 of neutrality, to stand as the " vahnue va Leza " (the messengers of 
 God), and cry to both Msidi and the Va-sanga, " Behold the Lamb 
 of God ! " 
 
 msidi's kingdom tottering. 
 To be a resident at Msidi's capital is, for one of God's witnesses, to 
 be placed in one of the most solemn positions he could occupy on this 
 earth. A diplomatist might be able to get along well enough, but the 
 man of God who knows only what it is to be faithful to his trust must 
 be prepared to find himself out of favour at court. To characterise 
 Msidi's mode of government as rigorous is altogether to choose the 
 wrong word. It is murderous ! War has been called " the last argu- 
 ment of kings," but, alas ! it has been Msidi's only argument during all 
 the long period of his rule in the Garenganze. What means the babel 
 of tongues heard in this country, if not that Msidi's war parties have 
 brought in from nearly every point of the compass gangs of poor 
 down-trodden mortals, who were swooped down upon in their little 
 hamlets far away and carried off? And what wonder if, in these days 
 when Msidi is no longer the mighty man he was, and petty chiefs are 
 defying him with impunity, these poor wretches make a run for it — • 
 that precious "it" called Liberty — even at the risk of being caught 
 and speared to death 1 The great marvel to me is that this kingdom 
 of Msidi's — which is nothing other than a monster system of slavery 
 — has been kept together for so long. The whole mode of government 
 is so grossly unjust, and based on such a wholly unworkable principle 
 (that is, in the long run), that its break-up is inevitable and only a 
 question, I believe, of a short time. If Msidi has had in his mind's 
 eye the founding of a dynasty and the perpetuating of his name, then 
 I believe he has signally failed, but I do believe the question of suc- 
 cession does not trouble him much. He speaks contemptuously of his 
 brothers and treats them most unkindly, and I believe that he would 
 never willingly yield up the ^^ oniande shell" to any one of them. If 
 there is any man in the country at present at all likely to succeed 
 Msidi, it is undoubtedly Mukandavantu, one of his sons. In many 
 respects he is a fine fellow, and very popular. It was he who drove 
 out the Va-lukaluka raiders. 
 
CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 Jfall of tfjc ^arengan?e Htngtiom. 
 
 (November, 1891, to May, 1892.) 
 
 THE winding up of Msidi's kingdom was approaching, 
 though probably no one anticipated how soon and how 
 suddenly it would occur. The strength of European power 
 was making itself felt in Garenganze, and there was no doubt 
 as to the ultimate issue, but had Msidi been in his vigour and 
 surrounded by his thousands, as he used to be a few years 
 previously, the account might have been very different from that 
 which Mr. Crawford supplies. From the west a caravan with 
 letters and goods had long been looked for, and tidings at length 
 came of its having reached the Lualaba river, the western 
 boundary of Msidi's dominion, but this was ecHpsed by news 
 of the coming of a large caravan of Zanzibaris from the east 
 coast, the visit of which, though brief, determined the future 
 of the Garenganze kingdom. 
 
 MR. CRAWFORD'S NARRATIVE. 
 
 Ltifoi River. — On the morning of November loth I had gone out for 
 half an hour when, on my return, to my agreeable surprise, I found 
 the chief's son Mafinge had come to inform us that messengers 
 had arrived from the Lualaba river, reporting our caravan as there, 
 and that Msidi wanted us at the capital. 
 
 On the 13th Mr. Lane and I arrived at the chief's, and heard 
 depressing rumours, namely, that the Va-sanga had blocked the 
 Lualaba crossing and refused to allow our caravan or any other to 
 come to Msidi's. 
 
 On the 1 8th Mr. Lane returned again to the Lufoi to superintend 
 the cultivation, and I remained on at the capital awaiting the coming 
 of our friends. 
 
 On the 19th Msidi despatched Mukandavantu with a large war 
 party to clear the road and bring our caravan across the river. I 
 
 I 
 
122 Bih6 and Garenganze. [Nov. 
 
 remained behind, despite Msidi's many entreaties to accompany 
 them, but it was only after he had refused my earnest request to go to 
 the Lualaba river alotte and speak with the Va-sanga about allowing 
 our friends to cross. Msidi laughed at this proposal and said, " They 
 would kill you ; you are my friend." I turned to the chief and 
 said, " Msidi, I am your friend : that is true ; but I am also the 
 friend of the Va-sanga, and of your meanest slave." 
 
 The long interval which elapsed after the departure of this very 
 doubtful relief party, saw me waiting on at the capital, hungering for a 
 scrap of news assuring me of the welfare of our friends. While thus 
 situated, with hopes all expectant, looking to the west, you can imagine 
 my surprise one day — the 28th November — while sitting talking to 
 an Arab under his verandah, to see five Zanzibaris march up, 
 turbaned and armed with breech loading rifles. From the east, 
 no doubt, I said to myself, and messengers too ! 
 
 THE APPROACH OF CAPTAIN STAIRS' EXPEDITION. 
 
 Their chief, Massondi (who crossed with Stanley in the Emin 
 Pasha Expedition), handed me a letter from Captain Stairs, dated 
 a fortnight before from the Luapula river, in which he stated he was 
 coming to Msidi on a mission from the King of the Belgians, and 
 earnestly requested that we would oblige him with any information 
 we might think necessary for him to have regarding the country, etc. 
 Accompanying this letter were two for Msidi in English and Swahili 
 respectively, in which Captain Stairs and his four white companions 
 formally sent their " salaams '' to the chief, and intimated that they 
 had come from the sea expressly to visit him ; further, that their 
 intentions were peaceable towards him, and that in all they did they 
 desired to act slowly and with his (Msidi's) consent. Captain Stairs 
 in conclusion mentioned casually that the Wa-sumbwa (Msidi's own 
 people) were his friends, and signed himself " The Englishman, 
 W. E. Stairs." 
 
 The last two statements contained in the letter fairly made Msidi's 
 heart " white " (as he termed it) towards the new-comers, but 
 specially the fact that they were Englishmen, as he mistakenly 
 thought them all to be. " They are English, do you hear, sons of 
 the dust?" shouted Msidi to the crowd of his people, "and we know 
 the English to be true people." 
 
 The five Zanzibaris returned, bearing a letter from Msidi written by 
 me, full of expressions of goodwill towards the white men, and 
 requesting them to come on to his capital without delay. At the 
 same time I wrote Captain Stairs, telling him of the disagreeable 
 surprise that was awaiting him and his three hundred men at Msidi's, 
 where hunger prevailed almost to starvation. My report of the 
 
1 89 1.] J^Ji^ Capital a Wilderness. 123 
 
 land may have been dreary and the outlook bleak to these new- 
 comers, who were pressing on to Msidi's as to some "El Dorado." 
 But as on the evening of that day I stood on the hill-top overlooking 
 the valley of the capital, and contrasted the scene with that of one 
 year ago, I was convinced that no true description of the state of 
 the country could be other than dreary and depressing. I never 
 realized how far things had really run riot in the country until I 
 looked down upon long stretches of tilled land without any people, 
 where once, and that scarcely twelve months ago, stood hundreds 
 of dwellings compactly built together. What will Mr. Swan say 
 when he hears that after leaving Mutombo's village going eastward, 
 he would not encounter one mud hut right on to Munema ! 
 
 Msidi spent the interval that elapsed after the departure of the 
 Arabs in rallying all his remaining men, and haranguing them all day 
 long on the great things he would do when the powder came, for, 
 of course, the white men were bringing him powder ! These remarks 
 regarding the powder were accompanied by many a scornful glance 
 at me, as though he would let us understand what a worthless lot we 
 missionaries were. When he spoke of the Belgians at present in 
 the country he grew fierce, charging them with all sorts of treacherous 
 motives. 
 
 RETURN OF MR. THOMPSON. 
 
 At last, to my great joy, when most folks in the capital had dis- 
 credited the report of our caravan coming, some Biheans knocked me 
 up at midnight and gave me letters from dear Br. Thompson telling 
 me of his being in camp at Mulowanyama's, two days' journey from 
 the capital. I was not surprised to hear that this man was compelling 
 all the Biheans to hand to him all their powder, on the ground that if 
 it reached Msidi he would murder them with it. Mr. Thompson wrote 
 that unless one of us came on to him, and assured the Biheans that it 
 was possible for them to enter the capital, they might refuse to come 
 in, though so very near. 
 
 On December 5th I greeted our brother at his camp, having taken 
 with me only Biheans, as the Va-sanga would hardly tolerate any one 
 from Msidi's. I saw Mulowanyama on the 6th, and had a long talk 
 with him regarding our position in the country. He said that all the 
 Va-sanga knew that we had held out against giving powder to Msidi, 
 or even writing for it, and that this had saved them. Of course, he 
 did not propose putting any obstacles m our way for a start the next 
 day, but very naturally made a search among the Biheans to see if 
 they were secreting powder, as, only a day or two before, Mukanda- 
 vantu's men had killed eleven of his people, chiefly poor harmless 
 women, out in the fields. 
 
 Two days after our aiTival at the capital Mr. Lane and Lieut. Legat 
 
124 BiM and Garenganze. [Dec. 
 
 came from the Lufoi river, and on the 12th we visited the chief with 
 our present. We first of all handed him some gifts from friends in the 
 homeland — a handsome musical-box, a cup and saucer and large urn 
 and plate (the last two, with John iii. 16), and with these he seemed 
 greatly pleased. But our present of 150 yards of nicely-assorted 
 cloth he treated in a most disdainful way, and reminded us of his 
 greatness. We quite expected this after the huge present of velvets 
 and other fine cloths given him by the Belgians, but we could only tell 
 him we were poor men who had not more to give. When he saw that 
 we spoke quietly but determinedly he grew very angry and hurled 
 many a bitter remark at us, concluding by telling us to take our 
 present away. Msidi's face when angry assumed as wild and wicked 
 an expression as it is possible for human face to wear, and it was when 
 he was in such a mood that you could expect the man to do anything, 
 not excluding the giving of an order for otte's own death. 
 
 During the month I was at the capital I left him on four difterent 
 occasions in just such wild moods as this, all of which had their origin 
 in the stand we were compelled to take in the matter of not giving him 
 powder, which question always opened up that other of Msidi's mur- 
 derous doings. But these storms would soon blow over, and he would 
 send a most beseeching message, asking if his "friend" would not 
 come again to see him. No doubt Msidi did know in his heart that 
 we were his friends, and though we were compelled to thwart him 
 often, yet he would never tell us to leave his country. 
 
 THE ZANZIBAR CARAVAN ARRIVES. 
 
 December \A,th. — This morning, at Msidi's request, I met Capt. 
 Stairs, who was at the head of his caravan, and conducted him to the 
 camping ground appointed by the chief. The large caravan of three 
 hundred Zanzibaris filed in with flags flying and a very travel-stained 
 look, accompanied by Captain Bodson, the Marquis de Bonchamps, 
 Dr. Moloney, and Mr, Robinson, Capt. Stair's servant. 
 
 Lieut. Legat pitched his tent in the new-comers' encampment, which 
 at once raised Msidi's suspicions, and he ordered the lieutenant to 
 remove from thence, and charged him with trying to come between 
 him and his new friends ; but the real fact was that the chief dreaded 
 lest they should effect a junction, and to prevent this he tried all in his 
 power. 
 
 Msidi having finally accepted our present, we were glad to leave the 
 capital on the 17th — the day appointed by Msidi for the reception of 
 Capt. Stairs. The events which happened after our departure were so 
 momentous and so calculated to turn this whole country upside down 
 that I shall endeavour to give you them in as much detail as possible. 
 
 17/A. — As arranged, Capt. Stairs saw the chief to-day and gave him 
 
1 89 1.] MsidVs End. 125 
 
 his present. Msidi expressed the wish that the captain would become 
 his blood brother. 
 
 18///. — Capt. Stairs was with Msidi again. The chief repeated his 
 wish, but wanted a large amount of cloth and powder first, before he 
 would consent to take the Free State flag. 
 
 19//^. — To-day Capt. Stairs planted the Congo Free State flagon the 
 high hill immediately adjoining the head village of Mukurru, and as 
 Msidi did not realize the full import of this act, Captain Stairs sent 
 four of his chiefs to inform him that in future he (Msidi) was expected 
 to obey the white men, and that there must be no more skulls seen 
 hanging round his village. Of course, this last order roused Msidi's 
 anger, for it meant that he must give up that prerogative which he 
 alone had exercised — alas ! so ruthlessly— during all the years of his 
 lording it in these parts. But though he stormed and fumed at this 
 order, he was still shrewd enough to see that he could not quarrel — 
 that is, profitably — with the new comers, yet declared his right to cut 
 off the heads of his slaves or any others who would oppose his rule. 
 
 DEATH OF MSIDI AND CAPTAIN BODSON. 
 
 December 2ot/i, 1891. — A long-to-be-remembered date in Garenganze 
 history ! This was the day appointed by Msidi for the blood brother- 
 hood ceremony with Capt. Stairs ; but events showed that he had no 
 intention of keeping his appointment, nor indeed of being the captain's 
 friend at all. Early in the morning a messenger was despatched to 
 the head village to know if Msidi was prepared to receive Capt. Stairs 
 on that day, but the messenger returned with the word that the chief 
 was sleeping. A little later, and a second messenger brought the news 
 that Msidi had left Mukui-ru at daybreak for Munema, one of the first 
 villages occupied by him in this country. When the messenger went 
 there Msidi told him he would receive the white man on condition 
 that he would come alone, and unaccompanied by any soldiers. This 
 proposal bore on the face of it some intent on Msidi's part of foul play, 
 and so Capt. Bodson and the Marquis de Bonchamps started for 
 Munema with a body of Zanzibaris, to know definitely whether Msidi 
 would submit to the white men or otherwise. On arriving outside the 
 village of Munema a halt was made, and four headmen went to the 
 chief to inform him that the white men were outside. This was about 
 ii.o a.m. An hour passed, and the headmen not having returned, 
 Capt. Bodson took six men and went into the village, leaving the main 
 body outside with the Marquis de Bonchamps ; it being understood 
 by the latter that if the sound of firing was heard he was to rush in 
 with his Zanzibaris. Not many minutes elapsed after Capt. Bodson 
 had gone into the village when the loud report of firing was heard, and 
 the Marquis, rushing in with his men, found outside the verandah of 
 
126 BiM and Garenganze. [Dec. 
 
 the largest house the dead body of Msidi lying opposite Capt. Bodson, 
 who, though himself conscious, was in a dying condition. Near by 
 Msidi lay the dead body of Masuka, one of his warriors, whilst opposite 
 lay two of Capt. Bodson's men, one with two legs broken, and the 
 other with a bullet in his thigh. Capt. Bodson was at once removed 
 to the camp, and though in great agony explained in the few remaining 
 breaths which he drew in this life what had occurred. On entering he 
 found Msidi armed with a fine sword, which Capt. Stairs had given 
 him, and surrounded by between thirty and forty men. Some distance 
 off he saw his four headmen, evidently prisoners. Advancing towards 
 Msidi he asked him what he intended to do, and had only said a few 
 words when Msidi with the drawn sword in his hand made a thrust at 
 Capt. Bodson, which the latter evaded, and at the same time drawing 
 his revolver he shot Msidi dead through the heart. Msidi had just 
 fallen when the contents of several guns were fired into Capt. Bodson's 
 back by some men, wounding him mortally. He spoke with Lieut. 
 Legat (who was an old friend of his) up to the last, saying that he was 
 dying as a soldier should die, having rid the Garenganze country of a 
 tiger, and with one shout " Long live the king," this loyal soldier 
 passed away. 
 
 The Zanzibaris who rushed in were so maddened by what had 
 taken place that they cut Msidi's head from its lifeless trunk. Thus 
 it came to pass, as has often happened before in this old earth's 
 history, that the man who had well-nigh spent a whole lifetime 
 laying violent hands on hundreds of innocent people, and cruelly 
 putting them to death, had himself to make his exit from this life 
 by the same doorway through which his many victims had gone — 
 a violent death ! Alas for him ! It were better for him had God's 
 witnesses never come to this country than that, having come, he 
 should have turned a deaf ear to them, and closed his eyes against 
 the light. 
 
 REFLECTIONS ON MSIDl'S CHARACTER. 
 
 Msidi was emphatically a man " wrapped in the solitude of his own 
 originality." His head was shaped as I have seen no other man's, 
 marking him off as one capable of doing odd, if not wicked, things. 
 Ever since I have known him a look of cunning craftiness had taken 
 up its abode on his shrivelled features, while his general demeanour 
 was overbearing and haughty. With Msidi it was emphatically, 
 '■^ Aui Ccesar, met niillus" ; every one in his country (his subjects 
 I mean) being laid under tribute to serve him. The subjection which 
 he demanded was of the "biting the dust" order, and he was only 
 waiting for powder to carry on a war of extermination against every 
 Sanga man who had thwarted and opposed him. 
 
1 89 1.] Msidi's Son Succeeds Him. 127 
 
 But "He who doeth according to His will in the army of heaven, 
 and among the inhabitants of the earth," as of yore, confronted this 
 cruel despot. "Thou profane, wicked prince, .... whose day is 
 come, .... Thus said the Lord God, remove the diadem, and take 
 off the crown. I will overturn, overtu7')i, overturn it, and it shall be 
 no more, until He come, whose right it is ; and / will give it HimP 
 Happy thought, that, come who may, and rule who can in dark 
 Garenganze during the "little while" in which His kingdom in 
 mystery precedes His coming kingdom on earth, one day this land 
 shall own Christ's sway. 
 
 LETTERS FROM CAPTAIN STAIRS : MSIDl'S SUCCESSOR APPOINTED. 
 
 How things are going on at the capital now you will best understand 
 from the following letter, which I received the other day from Captain 
 Stairs : 
 
 " On the 2 1st we left Maria's village, and moved about 800 yards to 
 Mumoneka's, and next day started building Fort Bunkeya. I called up 
 the chiefs Chamunda and Mukandavantu, told them we had no desire 
 to fight, but would punish any one who made war in this country. 
 Meantime I sent for Katanga, Ntenke, Mulowanyama, and others, 
 to come to me before electing a chief of the Va-yeke, who will only 
 have power over this immediate neighbourhood. There will be no 
 more Va-yeke tyrants over the poor Va-sanga, Va-lamotwa, etc. ; 
 each district will have its local chief, and the head over the whole will 
 be the white man. Already the people have returned in great 
 numbers to their hoeing and planting. The Va-sanga are delighted, 
 and at last see hope ahead. We are building our fort out of Msidi's 
 own botna, and the door of his big hut is now my table, off which this 
 
 evening we eat our Christmas dinner 1 will work hard to keep 
 
 powder out, and let the country get full breathing There are 
 
 no skulls visible at Bunkeya now." 
 
 On December 29th Captain Stairs wrote : 
 
 " We are progressing favourably with our fort, but the want of food 
 is taking it out of our men. 1 elected Mukandavantu to-day as 
 successor to the late chief. Likuku has not come in, nor Cikako. 
 Mulowanyama has come and got the flag from me, and several others 
 the same." 
 
 Thus it will be apparent to all that a new epoch has begun in 
 Garenganze history, yet changing epochs can not change our 
 position, and we seek grace ever to " walk by the same rule, and 
 mind the same thing." Oh, to be ever seeking out the lost ones, 
 and making every other thing subservient to this one great business 
 of ours ! 
 
128 BiJii and Garenganze. [Dec. 
 
 FAMINE IN THE COUNTRY. 
 
 What 1 have written previously regarding the inadvisability of our 
 building near a fort 1 would again emphasize here, and it is very 
 probable that, acting on this, we may move down the Lufira to 
 Kasanga in a month or two. We hear of large numbers flocking into 
 that valley, including Mutombo, one of the late chief's head wives, the 
 new chief's mother, and others, and only two days ago a beseeching 
 message came from Miramba, wanting us to build there. 
 
 Before Capt. Stairs entered here from the east with his large caravan, 
 the country had been steadily sinking under the indirect pressure 
 which the Va-sanga were bringing to bear upon it ; so much so that 
 when the new-comers arrived, the tide had gone far, far out in the 
 capital and the country generally. Food could not be had for the 
 buying, and the natives everywhere were keeping the life in by eating 
 roots, while they watched their corn ripening. Thus matters stood 
 when Capt. Stairs came with his Va-lungwana,and then began a struggle 
 for sheer existence such as never before happened in these parts. His 
 soldiers turned out to be (what, alas ! Koran chanters often are) an 
 unscrupulous lot : and loot, cruel and wholesale, seemed to be the 
 order of the day. Of course, the strong came off better than the weak, 
 but the victors fared badly enough. Eighty of their number died in 
 the capital, while of some seventy missing, perhaps thirty are now 
 alive. But how shall we compute the deaths among the poor natives? 
 Alas ! alas ! their death roll has run up to hundreds, and the end is 
 not yet. Specially have the old people been forced to the wall in this 
 struggle for life, and I find myself asking for one after another, only to 
 receive a dejected look and the same sad answer — " Dead ! " 
 
 BUNKEYA. 
 
 I came over here to the old capital ten days ago at the request of my 
 brethren, to find out how the country was going, i.e., whether the 
 people would stand by the young chief in large numbers, or scatter 
 over the country in small groups, and begin village life again on their 
 own account — a very tempting thing to do in these days when auto- 
 cracy is no more. I am now in the chief's village, in the centre of 
 which the Congo Free State flag is waving, which is sufficient indication 
 of the amount of power he has. He is still the same nice young fellow 
 he used to be, only a little more sedate, with his " omande shell " 
 regalia on. Meanwhile, he has only a handful of people around him. 
 
 Looking at Bunkeya to-day it is hard to keep back a tear at the 
 picture of desolation and devastation that meets the eye. The main 
 path that led along from the head village past Maria's village is over- 
 grown with tall rank grass and is scarce discernible. Breaking your 
 way along this you go on and on without meeting a single soul where just 
 
1892.] A Deserted Capital. 129 
 
 twelvemonths ago was a busy thoroughfare. Entering Maria's village 
 — once the cleanest and most orderly in all the capital, besides being 
 one of the largest — you find the houses in a tumble-down condition, 
 grass growing everywhere, and solitude reigning. Where have the 
 people gone ? Many, as I have remarked, are dead. Ah ! how hard 
 for you to realize it in England whose barns are full — dead from 
 hunger ! Those who survive are now scattered far and near over the 
 country, trying to solve the almost insolvable problem of how to keep 
 soul and body together. Some of these thus scattered may come back 
 in a month or so for the sorghum, which will then be ripe, but most 
 will seek out their own people— if they have any — and there dwell. 
 
 It will thus be evident to you that there has been a thorough disin- 
 tegration of the old order of things in Garenganze. The old capital is 
 now no more, and the new order of things will likely be a scattered 
 population, with the country better occupied as a whole. 
 
 A WIDER FIELD FOR THE GOSPEL. 
 
 Though some may think otherwise, I am solemnly persuaded that 
 the time has come, not for evacuation, but rather for occupa?tcy of this 
 country in the real sense. What though the capital of Garenganze life 
 is gone, is it not better so .-' Msidi at the best was only a hinderer of 
 our work. If he had proposed to be a helper in it — he whose hands 
 were red with the blood of thousands — then we might have withdrawn 
 with faces shamed, but this, thank God, he did not propose to do. 
 Although, I do believe, in his heart he thought us a safe sort of people 
 to have in his country, yet up to the last he was still the same suspect- 
 ing old man. 
 
 Thank God we have now a far wider field than ever we had. The 
 barriers raised during the old days of tribal wrangling (Msidi verstis 
 all comers who thwarted) are now gone. The north can be reached 
 now as can the south and east, and in order that this may be done, 
 pray that wherever we may fix our abode it may prove but a centre 
 from which to work out. Oh ! pray that we. His ambassadors in this 
 land, may be much afoot on our Master's business, overtaking the 
 scattered groups with the message of light and love. 
 
 There is much in this rainy season weather to tempt one to remain 
 indoors. All the country adjacent to the Lufira is flooded just now, 
 in many places so badly as to make travelling on foot impossible. A 
 fortnight ago I made the attempt to reach this place via Mupanda's — 
 our only dry-season route — but was compelled to return and cross the 
 Lufira higher up, after having spent a long day- — perhaps the longest 
 and dreariest I have yet spent in Africa — out on the flat, trudging 
 along from almost sunrise till after sundown to the charming music of 
 " Splash ! Splatter ! Splash ! Splatter ! " The water deepened as 
 
130 Bihe and Garenganze. [April, 
 
 we advanced — here knee deep, there waist deep, and, anon, deeper. 
 The old paths, too, are quite obliterated, which means a deal of 
 unnecessary winding here and there, following some far away land- 
 mark, which disappears and reappears with the rise and fall of the 
 country. The prime condition for getting along under these circum- 
 stances is for the traveller, before he strikes camp in the morning and 
 again at sundown, to fortify himself against his all-day bath with 
 quinine, than which we here can find no better tonic. 
 
 ANOTHER EXPEDITION ARRIVES ; CAPT. STAIRS LEAVES. 
 
 I have omitted to note that Captain Stairs, after fighting on for 
 over a month against hungpr and disease, was compelled to withdraw 
 his caravan, as his men were dying at the rate of two per day, while 
 he himself, the Marquis de Bonchamps, and Mr. Robinson were very 
 weak, Dr. Moloney being the only strong man. Captain Stairs wrote 
 February 3rd, " I have been in bed now twenty-nine days, and feel 
 that I am not justified in remaining here any longer." 
 
 The opportunity occurred for Captain Stairs to withdraw his caravan 
 on the arrival from the north of another of the Katanga Company's 
 Expeditions, numbering over four hundred souls, in command of 
 Captain Bia. All along their route soutli from Lusambo on the 
 Sankuru river they had found abundance of food, in fact, it is asserted, 
 too much ; but their disappointment was very great on reaching here, 
 for they had been assured by Commander Le Marinel that at Msidi's 
 there was abundance of rice, goats, etc. This throws an interesting 
 sidelight on the seeming contradictions between travellers who, 
 following on each other's heels, perhaps at intervals of one, two, or 
 three years, paint very different pictures of the same place, and even 
 doubt the veracity of those who preceded them. 
 
 Two months have passed since this last caravan came, during 
 which Captain Bia very wisely scattered his people over the country, 
 thus averting a long death roll. He is now compelled to withdraw 
 his caravan, and proposes going round the south-eastern boundary of 
 the State, returning here in August. 
 
 When Mr. Crawford wrote the above he did not know that the 
 African career of Captain Stairs had been brought to an end by 
 his lamented death at the mouth of the Zambesi. It would take 
 some time for news of this to reach Oarenganze, but I am sure it 
 was received with much sorrow there, as it was in England. Mr. 
 Crawford continues : 
 
 AN EAR FOR THE GOSPEL. 
 
 Lufoi Valley, yd yi/r//.— Since writing the foregoing I have been 
 back to'our lovely valley, and then off again up the Lufira to my friend 
 
1892.] 
 
 A Great Perplexity. 
 
 131 
 
 Cipona's, where I found a great number of people (lots of old faces 
 among them) all living on the old lady's bounty. And indeed, there 
 seems to be abundance of food for all, though in one kind only, i.e., 
 corn. I spent a week there, rubbing shoulders with some of the 
 strangest of individuals you could meet with, perhaps, on this earth, and 
 ever finding from all — Va-sanga, Va-lunda, Va-oussi, etc. — a ready ear 
 for the good Word of life. In Africa here it seems very certain that 
 the best opportunity for God's evangelist is with, say, a grouplet 
 of two or three men apart, talking long and earnestly with them 
 of our God's long-rejected claims upon them. Ah ! it is unutterably 
 sweet during such times to see a black son of Ham look for the first 
 time in his life perplexed over the momentous question of his sins, 
 and even to hear a sigh escape him. These dear folks do like us 
 missionaries, and from Cipona downwards all were very earnest in 
 their entreaties for us to stay on in the country. " If you go," said 
 they, " who will be left to us ? " 
 
 Undombe Woman, Benguella District. 
 
CHAPTER XV. 
 
 Ga«ngan?e after JiJlsitii's ticatt). 
 
 (May to Jl'Ly, 1892.) 
 
 THE arrival of another instalment of Mr. Crawford's diary 
 allows of the unexpected addition of a fresh chapter in 
 Garenganze history. The scattering of the natives was so 
 thorough after Msidi's death that the future of the country seemed 
 very doubtful, and there was also much uncertainty as to the 
 manner in which the work of evangelization would have to be 
 prosecuted. Owing to the fear the natives had of the Congo Free 
 State soldiers, it looked as if the servants of Christ would have to 
 seek out the people whom they knew, and carry on their labours 
 among them in place after place. There has, however, been a 
 considerable re-gathering of the natives by the Lufoi river, in the 
 neighbourhood where Messrs. Thompson and Crawford had built 
 their huts, and the presence of these brethren seems to have been 
 no small element in inducing the natives to come together again. 
 The locality appears to have been well chosen, and the supply of 
 excellent water for drinking purposes and for cultivation removes 
 one great difficulty that was felt in the former capital. The 
 influence of the Free State authority, in preventing disorder and 
 cruelty within a limited sphere, has evidently been considerable, 
 and this is a matter for thankfulness. At the same time their 
 present force of black soldiers in the fort on the Lufoi river (at 
 some distance below the station of the two brethren) is very small, 
 and the inroads of the Arabs, at no great distance, is a matter of 
 concern, especially as we know what bold and only too successful 
 efforts they have made against similar small forces of the Free 
 State further north. 
 
 MR. CRAWFORD'S DIARY— CONTINUED. 
 
 Lttfoi Valley^ May i6th, 1892. — (Latitude about 10° 13' 12" S. ; 
 Longitude 27" 14' 10" E.) — The last news you received from this poor 
 
May, 1892.] Famine Disappearing. 1 33 
 
 country, which of late has been so much overrun by new-comers, no 
 doubt awakened much concern at home as to its future, and excited 
 fears that the famine — as merciless as it was universal — would drive 
 away the old population, and leave us here in an empty wilderness. I 
 rejoice, however, to be able to write in a bright and hopeful way, for 
 the double reason that the grim and gaunt hunger of which I wrote is 
 now almost completely gone, and that while the old capital is nearly 
 empty, people are crowding over here to the east of the Lufoi river in 
 large numbers, with every appearance of a resolve to settle. These 
 two reasons, I am sure, will be as gladdening to you as they are to us, 
 for I need scarcely tell you how oppressive and burdensome was the 
 death-gloom of famine to those moving among it. With the ripening 
 of the sorgliiiiii the hollow cheeks and lank forms of the natives 
 began very perceptibly to fill up, and to-day nearly everyone we meet 
 is bordering on being fat. Sorghum, or tnevele, as it is called here, is 
 the great staple diet of the country ; the corn (maize) being only a 
 secondary thing, and chiefly cultivated because it is ripe much sooner 
 than the other, but it is by no means despised, because of the timely aid 
 it brings at a time when ground roots are resorted to, and in fact are the 
 fashionable diet. That this latter resort should be at all necessary in 
 a country whose soil needs no such humouring and tilling as that of 
 northern latitudes, proves at once how utterly void these people are of 
 thrift. They have neither the plod of the ant nor its mindfulness of 
 the coming winter. It remains to be seen whether they will profit by 
 the bitter experience of the past, and throw away less in the wholesale 
 brewing of beer, and do more in the cultivation of the soil. Every- 
 where I go I try and persuade the people into the growing of lots of 
 manioc, but they are so very conservative in their notions that every- 
 thing approaching a departure from their old line of doing things is 
 looked on with suspicion. 
 
 The rainy season has gone at last, and the sky is fast assuming that 
 settled azure hue which characterises it during the dry season. In 
 cloudland, white, fleecy masses have taken the place of threatening 
 inky-black clouds — the avani-cojiriers of a downpour. When these 
 latter appear on the horizon the result is as sure as though it had taken 
 place, and not at all distant, for they are soon moving hurriedly up 
 from all points to a meeting-place in the centre of the vast dome, 
 muttering out peal upon peal of thunder as they move, like the noise 
 of heavy artillery being dragged up into position. With the dry season 
 have come again those wonderful sunsets, which bathe the western sky 
 out here in floods of glory. We have not yet burned off the grass, but 
 shall do so one of these days. One lighted brand thrown among it is 
 sufficient to set the vast prairie all along the Lufira into a roaring 
 flame, hunted before which are huge herds of buffaloes, zebras, 
 
134 BiJd and Garenganze. [May, 
 
 antelopes, etc., who take refuge in small lakelets, and wait until the 
 fiery column sweeps past. Then the charred mass that is left looks 
 for weeks the gloomiest and most uninviting of places ; in fact, for miles 
 long, one great funeral pall has been spread over the country. A 
 month later, however, fresh, lovely, green grass is shooting out 
 everywhere, and yet another month sees the last traces of gloom 
 gone. 
 
 Towards the end of both seasons — the rainy and the dry — two great 
 extremes are visible, which, like all extremes, are not at all pleasant. 
 The former sees everything rank, overgrown, and tangled beyond all 
 description, the very grass being so tall and thick that one cannot push 
 it aside without the greatest difficulty; while during the latter the 
 ground is as bare and hard as a rock, the sun having licked up every 
 little lake and stream, and cracked the soil open. During the dry 
 season also, in every journey one takes that is not by the Lufira or 
 Lufoi, it is compulsory to carry water in gourds, with the alternative of 
 lying down to sleep with a swollen tongue and racking thirst — that is, 
 if no village has been reached. 
 
 The water of the Lufira river is very brackish and insipid, and when 
 most people for miles around us are either drinking from it, or from 
 loathsome mud-holes, called wells, we have the priceless boon of clear 
 Lufoi water, which one actually dreams about when he is away from 
 it, so poorly off is this big country for good water. Toward the end of 
 the rainy season our Lufoi takes strange freaks, and, as it rushes 
 madly down from the mountains, overleaps its old banks, carrying 
 away bridges and flooding a large part of the valley. Its waters, 
 usually so limpid and bright, and flowing noiselessly along, are then 
 turbid and red, whirling in rapid eddies near the banks, but rushing 
 down angrily in foam and confusion in mid-channel. Unfortunately, 
 crocodiles and water-snakes are rather numerous in the river, and 
 prevent our swimming therein. (N.R. — Ceya, one of my vakalama, 
 looks in to say that a crocodile has been killed just opposite our camp 
 here this morning.) Africans have the same antipathy to these 
 animals that sailors have to sharks, and in this antipathy I share, 
 having often fired off nearly a whole belt of cartridges at these hateful 
 creatures, as they lie dozing on the Lufira sand-banks in the sun. 
 
 HARSH WAYS OF AFRICANS ONE WITH ANOTHER. 
 
 All, I am sure, will be glad to learn that, since Msidi's death, war has 
 not been heard of, and internecine strife, as between tribe and tribe, is 
 an unknown thing. No better proof of this could be given than that 
 the chief Mutwila, who led the Va-sanga, has sent to Cikunkuluka, 
 Msidi's brother, asking for seed to sow his fields with, and proposing 
 to marry one of the latter's daughters. On the other hand there is 
 
1892.] African Litigation. 135 
 
 abundance of trifling ligitation as between man and man, and numerous 
 attempts on the part of petty chiefs to saddle weaker ones with crimes, 
 all of which flows from the reaction that has set in since the form of 
 government was changed. 
 
 We are often saddened to see the harsh, exacting way Africans in 
 slighdy higher positions act towards others of their race, mercilessly 
 buying and selling them like mere chattels for some trifling or, as is 
 oftener the case, imagined crime. The traditional customs accepted 
 by common consent, and which pass amongst these people as a kind 
 of unwritten law, are very stringent, the tiniest breach of them being 
 made an outlet for all sorts of greed and covetousness on the part of 
 the aggrieved person, whose demands are simply exorbitant. When 
 this same vulture-like greed, which abounds in the African, can find no 
 flaw in its victim's conduct in the light of the above-mentioned customs, 
 then a charge of witchcraft is resorted to, which the victimiser may 
 prove if only the poor fellow's hands are not tough enough to be dipped 
 into a pot of scalding water, perhaps ten times, without being blistered. 
 If blisters appear, he is pronounced guilty. 
 
 EFFORTS TO REACH THE HEART. 
 
 Dear Mr. Thompson and I have long and happy times together, 
 planning attack on the citadel of the heathen's soul. Beyond all con- 
 troversy this is most glorious work, and indeed there is nothing else 
 worth living for in these wilds, for if it is true, as some inform us, that 
 from a human standpoint our tenure of life is necessarily shortened by 
 coming out here, we at least must see to it that we go in for the best 
 possible investments for eternity. Heathendom, as it stares us in the 
 face here, has something tragic and beseechingly helpless about it. 
 Yet often we are sad of heart at the apathy and cool inditlerence we 
 meet with, which ! alas, is begotten of their ignorance. 
 
 Every morning we have a meeting for all-comers, and when the new 
 moon appears we change our morning into moonlight service. As yet 
 we know not of one soul in all this far-spreading expanse who is really 
 a child of God, though thousands have heard, many of whom seemed 
 to drink in the Word of life. This sad fact, on reflection, is very 
 humbling, and no doubt, in the eyes of this go-ahead age, which must 
 have everything cut and dry in figures, we are spending our strength 
 for nought ; yet would we look trustfully to God, the increase-giver, 
 seeking the while more compassion on, and passion for, the souls of 
 the perishing. 
 
 KNOWLEDGE OF A CREATOR. 
 
 In mingling with these people, and seeking to find out the best mode 
 of presenting our message, we are often surprised to find the measure 
 of knowledge they have regarding God the Creator ; which, moreover, 
 
136 Bike and Garenganze. [June, 
 
 has not been acquired from contact with missionaries, but is 
 hereditary. Some of the names appHed to (lod on this side of the 
 Lufira are very interesting, as proving that during even the darkest 
 hour of earth's history He hath not left Himself without witness, yea, 
 His eternal power and godhead are "clearly seen." (Rom. i. 20.) The 
 name Shakapanga is rarely ever used alone, but accompanied by " wi 
 tu panga, ne ku pangulula." Ask a native what it means, and he will 
 at once say, " It is He who created us, and who uncreates us \i.c. at 
 death], and who created all iJtings." Here he goes in for enumeration, 
 naming mountains, rivers, trees, and anything he can think of, and 
 then, as though giving up the very idea of mentioning everything, he 
 drawls out, hanging on the words as he does so, " vifttu v-i-o-ti-s-o " 
 {i.e. all things). God's right to thus " uncreate " (as he terms it) is 
 variously commented on ; but the majority, if not all, attribute it to His 
 biikadi (wrath), saying, " God has eaten up the creature." Some, indeed, 
 I have heard say regarding the dead, " God made him, and God has 
 taken him," and this too in such a dispassionate way as shewed he did 
 not deny, but rather admitted God's right to do so ; but I felt sure this 
 was only said because the subject of the remark was no near relative. 
 Some Africans I have seen almost distracted with grief regarding 
 departed relatives, and their cries prove how, after all, humanity has 
 many meeting-points. For instance, a daughter, weeping for her 
 mother, will wail out just like one such at home, " Come and take me, 
 mother ! " " Oh, mother, why have you left me alone ? " " My heart 
 is broken, mother." The wife of one of my men, this year, when we 
 were waiting at the Lufira for a canoe to take us across, on hearing 
 from new arrivals of her mother's death went almost mad with grief, 
 crying out to her mother to come and take her, and then, on realizing 
 how vain was such a cry, she made a frantic rush for the river, crying, 
 " I 'm coming to you, mother ! I 'm coming to you, mother ! " and 
 would certainly have been drowned in the Lufira, which was then 
 rushing like a torrent, had not a strong hand intercepted her in the 
 act. 
 
 Another name applied to God, and full of much interest, is Kafula 
 mova. This translated means " He of many suns," but this utterly 
 fails to give the full meaning the African has in his mind. He really 
 means " The Eternal God," for he asks, " Who can count God's years 1 
 When did they begin 1 " and then, regarding future existence, he 
 says, Ka fiila mova can never die." 
 
 Another title is that of Ilunga iva visera, and in explaining it the 
 native recounts, in his own graphic way, the many ups and downs of 
 his strange bush-life — the days of prosperity and health ; the days of 
 misfortune, and that sad day when he fell foul of " munona," or some 
 such loathsome disease ; the day when only out hunting half an hour 
 
1892.] "The Sender of Alir 137 
 
 he brought down a buffalo bull ; and that other day when, after having 
 stalked the plains all over, he got nothing. Recounting thus all the 
 items that go to make up his life, he points upwards, and names 
 Ilunga wa visera as " The Sender of all." It will be noticed here that 
 there is no mention of Satan as being a factor in bringing about his 
 ills ; for, alas ! the personality of this enemy of their souls is utterly 
 unknown, and wherever we go it is only too evident that he who for 
 long centuries has been leading these tribes on in their course of 
 rebellion against God has hidden himself behind his own lie. 
 
 When we charge these people with their sins before God, not one 
 out of the thousands we have spoken to has ever yet ventured to deny 
 the fact. With an open Bible in our hand we take up the first point 
 of Paul's indictment against the heathen — unthankfulness. (Rom. i. 21.) 
 A look of abject guilt settles on his countenance as we proceed to press 
 home the charge ; and no wonder, for with his own mouth he has 
 admitted, though somewhat flippantly, that God is the giver of all 
 things. Moreover, be it remembered that this same African, though 
 thankless Godward, is most absurdly profuse in his thanks to a white 
 man if he receives a paltry yard or two of calico, even deigning to cover 
 his body with earth as an expression of thanks (such is the custom here). 
 And then, as we move on to the third chapter of Romans, and sound 
 out the verdict that hath gone forth upon us <?//, no one ventures to 
 dispute the fact, as far as they are concerned, only they wonder very 
 much that the white man puts himself in the same category as them- 
 selves ; and here we have to explain that it is not ive who put ourselves 
 there, but God. 
 
 EXPLORING NORTHWARDS. 
 June i^th. — At Mufungds, on the border of the Luba country. 
 During the last fifteen days Mr. Thompson and I have been on the 
 march, journeying due north, with the majestic Kundelungu range on 
 our right all the way. Here and there we turned into its valleys to 
 visit the little hamlets generally located there, and the reception we 
 met with all along the route was one of effervescent warmth. Some, 
 it is true, fled on our approach ; but they soon returned on finding out 
 who we really were, and no doubt our walking-sticks and water-bottles 
 helped in a great measure to disarm suspicions. This is always so 
 wherever we go, and always will be wherever God's servants go in 
 Africa, if they keep their rifles out of sight, and move amongst the 
 people not with condescension but with simplicity and friendliness. 
 Travellers may write all sorts of things about Africans, and may find 
 them vastly different from the people we meet with ; but the real fact 
 is that the mode in which Africans are approached, and afterwards 
 dealt with, has everything to do with their bearing towards a new- 
 comer.. If a man moves about with a heavily-armed escort, and carries 
 
 K 
 
138 BiM and Garengmize. [June, 
 
 on all his dealings, as it were, behind the barrel of a rifle, the result is 
 obvious — the natives will flee and leave him to starve. 
 
 On the sixth day of journeying, after emerging from the Kasanga 
 valley, we entered upon what is getting rarer and rarer in Africa — 
 virgin soil, where the foot of white man has not yet trod. You can 
 imagine with what a joyous step we tread such soil, for great is the 
 privilege of being before the busy self-seekers of this age with the 
 message of our King. 
 
 THE VA-LOMOTWA. 
 
 The tribe which for the most part we have been moving amongst 
 has been the Va-lomotwa, a strangely recluse people who, in days of 
 peace, live at the foot of the mountain range, having at the same time 
 a connection with it in the form of little undiscoverable paths which 
 lead up to caves where they store all their food, and where, too, on the 
 approach of an invader they retreat. The wretched hamlets they 
 build at the bottom of the mountains have a poverty-stricken look, 
 consisting as they do of only one or two grass huts, scattered among a 
 few patches of sweet potatoes and manioc. One's first thought is to 
 blame these people for lack of industry, but the real fact is that in past 
 years their life in the plains was so precarious, and fraught with such 
 danger, that now it offers no attractions for them, and to a great extent 
 they are independent of it, save that in some secluded spot they may 
 rear a crop of mevele, which is no sooner ripe than it is carried to the 
 mountains. 
 
 At Lusengo we found the people had fled up into their " munitions 
 of rocks " ; but we were soon on such friendly terms with the one 
 remaining individual there that he, on his own responsibility, sent a 
 shrill call up the mountains, which had the effect of bringing down his 
 friends, who emerged out of the grass in all directions, among them 
 women with babies on their backs, and all carrying something of 
 household furniture — stools, pots, baskets, etc. The meeting which 
 followed was a memorable one, all the people from far and near having 
 come to listen to the strange things from the strange white men. 
 When I was charging them with their sin in speaking evil of the 
 attributes of God, and their unbelief as to His love for them, the old 
 chief, who is an outspoken sort of man, interrupted me several times, 
 reiterating his belief that God was only a wrathful Being and killed 
 people. Far on into the night we heard the villagers chattering about 
 the new-comers, and going over again and again what they heard. No 
 doubt our coming is reckoned a big event in their village life, and it is 
 quite apparent that we have strangely unsettled them. Many are their 
 conjectures of who we are. For instance, they marvel that we are not 
 married, and the old patriarch broke in with the remark that we must 
 be boys yet, which remark, as coming from him, we can easily agree with. 
 
1892.] Murder of an Old Chief. 139 
 
 Everywhere we go we encounter large supplies of good food — fowls, 
 eggs, sorghum, manioc, yams, and honey from the mountains, with 
 venison now and then. There is a marked scarcity of the smaller 
 game, though elephants and rhinoceroses abound. 
 
 DEATH OF CIFUNTWI. 
 
 Our original destination on this journey was Cifuntwi's large village, 
 which for years was the late Msidi's strongest outpost on his north- 
 eastern border. Whether for better or worse, however, since the 
 remarkable coup d'etat of last year, Veke prestige* has been an 
 unknown thing, and in fact so completely has the wheel gone round 
 that they who once were the oppressors are now in a degree the 
 oppressed. They were, in a manner, the aristocracy of these parts, 
 who dearly loved to wear a wealth of broad calico, and walk with a 
 swaggering gait ; but since Msidi's death the latter has very manifestly 
 disappeared, and, in the absence of an abundant exchequer as formerly, 
 the ample folds of calico have had to be abandoned. 
 
 Only six days ago, with deep sorrow, we heard of old Cifuntwi's murder 
 while we were speeding on our way to visit him. To detail the causes 
 would occupy much space, as African intrigues and quarrels are nearly 
 always very intricate, hardly ever born of a day, but often extending 
 far back, the whole being generally a compound of trivialities. Briefly, 
 since Msidi's death and the break-up of his power, things have swung 
 round to the unpleasant extreme of every man doing pretty much as 
 he likes, and this is explained by the fact that the force at the com- 
 mand of Lieut. Legat — a very competent officer — is quite inadequate 
 to govern this large country. Time was when only one man, viz., 
 Msidi, had a voice in the land. Since his death, however, there has 
 been much petty-lording it, or, rather, attempts at doing so. Among 
 others, there are three dangerous marauders on the banks of the 
 Luapula river, who for some years have been living on freebooting. 
 Two are Va-lungwana, named Muruturutu and Kafindo — employes of 
 an Arab at Unyanyembe, and the other a Munyamwezi named Shimba. 
 These, during Msidi's lifetime, were held in check in some degree, the 
 last-named having been driven out of the country by Mukandavantu 
 when he, two years ago, very defiantly proposed to march on the 
 capital. Shimba then took refuge on an island in Lake Moero, and 
 now, on hearing of Msidi's death, he accepted overtures from some 
 Va-lomotwa chiefs to come and help them to kill Cifuntwi. Kafindo 
 also sent a war party, and these unitedly surrounded the old man at 
 Malova, the village of his son, whither he had removed on hearing of 
 their intentions. Four war camps were built around him, and after 
 
 * Msidi was one of the Yeke, a tribe in the neighbourhood of Lake 
 Tanganyika. 
 
140 BiM and Garenganze. [June, 
 
 much firing he was compelled to flee. Deserted by all his people, 
 save one little boy, he made his way back to his old village, en route 
 to the white men at the Lufoi, but a passage along the road was denied 
 him by the Va-lomotwa, and following him into his own fields they 
 cruelly murdered the poor aged man, who, as far as I ever heard, 
 was always their good friend, having no such black record as Msidi. 
 
 EVIL WORK OF ARABS. 
 
 During these last few days we have been moving about among these 
 Va-lomotwa, some of whom were active participators in this crime, 
 and we could not refrain from uttering solemn warnings of the wrath 
 of God revealed from heaven against all unrighteousness. We are now 
 on the borders of the Luba country, and only two days north of this 
 the Arab agents above mentioned have lately been doing some of the 
 foulest and blackest work possible. Chief after chief has been mur- 
 dered, their countries devastated, and large gangs of slaves carried off 
 with everything else that has a market value — and all this too in the 
 Congo Free State territory ! These Va-lungwana have strongly 
 entrenched themselves on the right bank of the Luapula river, distant 
 from each other only a day's journey. And it is an indisputable fact 
 that Muruturutu alone has fifteen once-powerful chiefs completely in 
 subjection, whom he compels to bring him every tusk of ivory, large 
 or small, under penalty of death. The Luba country is his great 
 hunting-ground, all over the south-east corner of which he sends his 
 war parties, armed with percussion-cap guns, to carry on their work of 
 devastation and unmerciful vandalism. In the great majority of cases 
 the resistance offered amounts to nothing, and in only one instance, so 
 far as I know, a large chief, named Ciyombo, was able to drive off the 
 invaders with somewhat heavy losses on their part. In these slave 
 raids it is pretty certain that all the poor old folks not eligible for the 
 market and unable for the journey are cruelly murdered. Of those 
 actually taken as slaves perhaps about seventy per cent, are women, 
 twenty per cent, boys, and only about ten are men, the scarcity of men 
 being accounted for by the fact that most are either killed off during 
 the attack, or that they make good their escape when they see resist- 
 ance to be useless. Though all these tribes have a very powerful 
 arrow-poison, named "bulembe," death from which by tetanus is 
 certain in a few minutes, they undervalue its power, and think a gun 
 with its loud report a dreadful weapon. But, as a matter of fact, the 
 damage done by the latter in the hands of natives amounts to almost 
 nil, a gunshot wound being a very trifling thing compared with the 
 slightest scratch from a poisoned arrow. 
 
 God grant that soon the poor down-trodden Luba country may be 
 freed from the yoke of the oppressor, and that the dying groans which 
 
1892.] Mountaineers hear God's Message. 141 
 
 have for so long a time been ascending into the ears of the Lord of 
 Sabaoth may speedily cease ! It is a very simple thing for rulers, 
 sitting in conference in Europe, to mark off with coloured crayons 
 delimitations of frontiers, etc., and annex by mutual consent vast 
 territories which might easily contain several Europes ; but how very 
 different it is when thoroughgoing administration is in demand, and 
 there is only a handful of soldiers in the country to see it carried 
 out. 
 
 We visited Cifuntwi's old village, built at a beautiful spot near the 
 confluence of the Lufwa and Luisi, both tine streams flowing into the 
 Lufira, a few days' journey off. The once large and crowded village 
 we found burned to the ground. The chief's house, which was sixty 
 feet long, had shared the same fate. Making our exit by the west gate, 
 we passed through large fields of ripe sorghum, rapidly going to waste 
 for want of people to garner it. The whole sight was saddening 
 beyond description, as was the thought of the poor old man left to die 
 alone, all his young men having fled like rats from a sinking ship, 
 Alas ! if one must speak of honour and loyalty in connection with the 
 average African character, it is to say that there is little of either 
 manifest. The rare exceptions met with here and there only prove 
 the rule. 
 
 KUMBURA'S — A MOUNTAIN VILLAGE. 
 
 Jwie 27th. — To-day we climbed up to Kumbura's village, which is 
 far up the mountain side, and very dangerously situated at the foot of 
 great sandstone cliffs rising up immediately behind the village, and 
 some hundreds of feet high. After the rains, huge boulders become 
 detached from the parent mass and roll down, threatening the annihila- 
 tion of both village and villagers. While their position is impregnable 
 and impervious to attack, they pay the penalty of their choice in the 
 poor, stunted crops of sorghum reaped from the rocky soil of the 
 mountain. Here we had a memorable meeting with over two hundred 
 people, old and young, and for the first time in their long, dark history, 
 the rocks and valleys which for centuries resounded with nought but 
 the noise of heathen orgies and devil-worship, sent back the echo of 
 God's praise. It was touching to bid "good-bye" to some of these old 
 white-headed and stoop-backed mountaineers, whom we may never 
 meet again in this world. Farewell, dear aged pilgrims ; may we meet 
 where twilight has turned to day ! " Believe in the Lord Jesus Christ, 
 and thou shalt be saved." 
 
 yuly isi. — We are now on the homeward journey, revisiting the 
 places at which we stopped when going northward, and seeking to find 
 out how much was remembered of all they had heard. Ciziba, a small 
 chief, could remember that God's Kabinda (Only begotten one), Jesu, 
 had long ago descended from heaven, and " made an end of sin " (this 
 
142 Bihe and Garenganze. [July, 
 
 literally, wa puizia 7niandd) before God, by paying the price of His 
 own blood. During this journey we have had very much to encourage, 
 and bid us hope that God will soon gather out a people from these 
 tribes for Himself. We are still following the Kundelungu range, which 
 rises on our left to a height of over one thousand feet. The whole is 
 one long stretch of table-land, uniform in height and appearance, as far 
 as we have yet seen. There are three distinct formations of rocks, the 
 base being schist, the middle red sandstone, and the top limestone. 
 All over the top of the range there are many cup-like cavities, caused 
 by the action of torrents which rush down into the valleys, and these 
 are declared by the natives to be the footprints of a great giant named 
 Kara ya Rova, who passed by that way long years ago. Where he 
 came from, and whither bound, the natives don't venture to say, but 
 they stoutly resist any attempt at removing this strange notion out of 
 their heads. 
 
 On the journey northwards, in order to avoid a long march round a 
 promontory of the range that would have led us out near the Lufira 
 flat, we climbed the mountain by a very precipitous path, and after an 
 easy march along the top, descended near Lugungivi, at a spot where, 
 looking upwards, we wondered how the thing was possible. Once or 
 twice all the path we had was a tiny ledge of rock overhanging a dark 
 chasm, upon which we could only plant one foot at a time, but even 
 this was more acceptable than the treacherous schist, which, either as 
 a foothold or something to clutch at, was always cruelly deceptive, 
 breaking away in cakes at the slightest touch. 
 
 loih. — We are now back again at the Lufoi, where we rest for a 
 week or two, awaiting the appearance of the new moon, when we start 
 on our journey southwards. To our unbounded joy we found that in 
 our absence the mail from Bihe had arrived, bringing with it such 
 glad, good news from the old country. If friends only knew what a 
 letter means to us here, they would indeed be less reluctant, or forget- 
 ful, in writing a word of cheer. 
 
 M. Delcomune has turned up here at last, after a long absence 
 (about seven months), during which, though he was comparatively 
 near, nothing was known of his whereabouts. It now appears that on 
 leaving Ntenke's, he struck across westwards to the Lualaba river, 
 where he commenced building a flotilla of canoes, by which he hoped 
 to reach Lake Chinkonjia. The task in itself was no light one, but 
 being undertaken at a time when there was scarcely any food in the 
 country, it was very formidable. Unfortunately, however, the building 
 of canoes, sufficient to carry the large caravan and loads, turned out 
 only a small thing compared with the difficulties which lay ahead. 
 When the boats got under way with their cargo, it was discovered that 
 rapids every day necessitated the unloading of all the boats, and their 
 
1892.] Lagos Men in Katanga. 143 
 
 being dragged overland past each. After several months of battling 
 in this manner, and when just about four days from Chinkonjia, a rapid 
 was reached which baffled all their powers to pass, owing to the fact 
 that on either bank mountains rose up abruptly out of the water to a 
 great height, forbidding a passage for the boats by land. Here, after 
 having come so far, and with the goal so very near, the whole project 
 had to be abandoned, and the caravan returned here en rottie to Lake 
 Tanganyika. It is unfortunate that so much toil was all in vain, and 
 it is to be regretted that such an enterprise was embarked upon at all, 
 without a previous survey of the river. M. Delcomune's huge caravan, 
 which I am informed numbered about 600 souls on leaving the Congo, 
 is now reduced by death and desertion to 200. 
 
 The three Belgian gentlemen who have been stationed with a large 
 portion of Captain Bia's caravan one day's journey up the Lufira from 
 us have now struck camp, and are proceeding to Ntenke's, where 
 Captain Bia will join them about August ist.* There are quite a 
 number of Lagos men with them, most of whom understand English, and 
 have attended mission schools. Alas, however, for the degrading lives 
 of most, despite their boasted remarks — " Me read Bible," " Me go to 
 church," etc. On one occasion I had an opportunity of speaking with 
 them altogether, and a very solemn time it was. After I left. Dr. 
 Amerlinck told me that a Haussa soldier, who was a known thief, 
 came and confessed to having stolen, one month before, from the 
 store. 
 
 Mr. Thompson and I can testify for one another regarding the 
 measure of good health granted to us, viz., that since our last letters 
 we have not been laid aside for one day by fever or illness of any sort. 
 In contrast with this the officers of the fort, down stream, have suffered 
 much, for Lieut. Legat has during his stay here had twenty-two serious 
 attacks of fever, while M. Verdick had for a long time periodic attacks 
 every ten days. Without doubt, our choice of a site here has been 
 God-directed, and to Him be all the praise. 
 
 As an opportunity has occurred for sending letters soon by the west 
 coast, we avail ourselves of it, hoping also to write from Ntenke's via 
 the Congo. 
 
 July 26ih. — Before leaving for the south I add a few lines. The Lufoi 
 river at last promises to be a good centre for people, and during the 
 last few weeks numbers have gathered around, asking for nothing but 
 permission to build near us. They still look aghast at the fort, and 
 beseech us not to leave the country, lest they all be killed. We find 
 the stupid and mischievous notion has got currency that since Msidi's 
 
 * The safe arrival of M. Delcomune at Stanley Pool and the death of 
 Captain Bia have been recently mentioned in newspapers, — F. S. A, 
 
144 BiJd and Garenganze. [July, 
 
 death we are the chiefs of the country, and this compels us to disabuse 
 their minds of any such idea, though many insist on wronging us in 
 the matter. 
 
 Cikako, the late Msidi's brother, with all his people, has crossed the 
 Lufira, and is building two days' south of us, near Cikunkulukas. The 
 two chiefs, Cipashia and Mukevo, who last year fled from here, are 
 coming back again, and another chief, Cisake, who formerly lived in 
 the plains, has come to build in our immediate vicinity. 
 
 MEMORIES OF MSIDI. 
 
 Hundreds of people about here, looking back on the long quarter of 
 a century of Msidi's lording it, seem to forget how iron-like was the 
 rod that ruled them, and have nothing but admiring awe to utter 
 regarding the late chief's great doings. Hours and hours are spent 
 recounting the raids of his war-parties across the Luapula, when 
 Kazembe and others were driven from their towns ; but their laudation 
 on this occasion is only another instance of " distance lending enchant- 
 ment to the view," besides proving at the same time what is really an 
 African's notion of a great chief, i.c.^ one who mercilessly cuts off 
 heads, hands, ears, etc. On the other hand they don't study that 
 aspect of Msidi's life which pictures him as thundering out the death 
 warrant Fwa, nwana wambiia ("Die, son of a dog"), and even 
 tasting from his executioner's hand the warm life-blood of his dying 
 victim ; but they recall how he could show himself to be kindness and 
 liberality itself, and how he himself would wear, day in and day out, a 
 miserable two yards of dirty calico, and yet would give away, to the 
 last yard, the bales upon bales of cloth brought into the country by the 
 many caravans from east and west coasts. 
 
 DREAD OF DEPARTED SPIRITS. 
 
 However much truth there may be in what an African says of the 
 dead, he is always sure to say good and not evil of him, for the old 
 rule, " de rnortuis nil nisi bonum" is a big portion of his creed. The 
 reason of this is his inherent dread of the power of spirits over him, 
 who, unless propitiated, can make his whole life misei-able, thwarting 
 and tormenting him at every turn. Thus it is that a dead man is more 
 dreaded than a living one (1 mean the departed spirit), for whereas 
 that same man when alive may have inhabited a poor decrepit body 
 from which nothing was to be feared, at death the spirit departs from 
 the narrow prison that confined it to a sphere where, as far as I am 
 aware, the African puts no limit to its power. Regarding the body, it 
 is reckoned only a house, and my boy, not long ago, calling my atten- 
 tion to a corpse being carried out of a village for burial, said, " What 
 they are carrying is only a nasnia" i.e. a deserted village or house. 
 
1892.] Only Two Witnesses, 145 
 
 Regarding death there are two phrases often used, which, though 
 having an outward resemblance, have a vastly different meaning. Of 
 the dead they say wa pita kara ("he has gone already"), and wa fika 
 kara ("he has arrived already"), the latter meaning, the spirit has 
 gone to God. It is generally believed by natives about here that 
 spirits who have been propitiated return again to earth, in the form of 
 a new-born child, and that those who do not return refuse to do so 
 because of ill-treatment received at the hands of their relatives after 
 departure. They are reported to say, " I won't return ; for if they 
 treated me so badly after death, what treatment will I receive if alive 
 again ? " 
 
 Before the year is ended I hope to cross the Luapula river to 
 Kazembe's, and go up the east side of Moero. From all reports 
 there are yet thousands east of us unreached by the word of life. It 
 will at once strike you that only two of us here are a very small 
 number for the spreading of the gospel in such a land as this, where, 
 on the map with our camp as centre, and a radius of hundreds of 
 miles, you can describe a circle without bringing into it a single 
 missionary. The consequence of our being only two is that school 
 work of any description is left untouched, because of its being 
 necessarily secondary, though important. 
 
 The average readings of my thermometer for the week ending July 
 1 8th were 57° at 6 a.m., 92° at noon, and 63° at 6 p.m. The readings 
 for the corresponding week last year are almost identical. 
 
CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 ©losing HemariiS. 
 
 I WOULD fain continue adding letter to letter telling of the 
 hopes and fears of these servants of the Lord in Central 
 Africa, but the time of even willing readers must not be too 
 much taxed. 
 
 Information has chiefly been given about Garenganze, the 
 most distant of our three centres of labour, on account of the 
 critical state of matters there, and the difficulty of obtaining 
 information from the workers, a year or two having sometimes 
 elapsed without any communication either way. Much might be 
 written about the Bih^ district, where Kwanjulula forms a basis for 
 the more distant places, but this is not necessary, as tidings are 
 received nearly every month. From Nana Kandundu we hear 
 perhaps every two or three months. It lies rather more than 
 half-way on the road to Garenganze, and access to Nana Kan- 
 dundu is not so difficult as from thence to Garenganze. I will 
 only add some detached remarks referring to matters that have 
 not been mentioned in the narratives I have attempted to weave 
 together, and it may be helpful to mention the names of labourers 
 at each place. 
 
 After my return from escorting the small party to Nana Kan- 
 dundu in 1 89 1, the state of my health caused concern to friends 
 in England, as my visit home for six months in 1888 failed to 
 remove the effects of fever contracted in the Barotsi Valley. My 
 brother-in-law. Dr. Walter Fisher, urged my return home again, 
 and I accordingly left Bihe with my wife and little girl, reaching 
 England in June, 1892. We could the more easily hand over 
 our share in the work as Dr. Fisher was married in May to Miss 
 Anna Darling. 
 
 During my absence the work has been maintained in a wide 
 circle around Kwanjulula, and we quite hope to hear in due time 
 
Dec. 1892.] Arrival of the Latest Party. 147 
 
 of God's blessing on the stedfast evangelizing and visiting carried 
 on in very many villages far and near. In this Dr. and Mrs. 
 Fisher, Miss Gilchrist, Messrs. Munnoch and Lynn, Mr. and 
 Mrs. Murrain have been engaged, my man Dick (a native of the 
 Barotsi Valley) also assisting. 
 
 At Nana Kandundu Mr. and Mrs. Bird have got through the 
 toilsome business of preparing dwellings for themselves and 
 native helpers, but the serious matter of mastering and com- 
 mitting to writing the native language, so as to be able to publish 
 the gospel, yet lies before them. Mr. Lane, who found little to 
 do in the paralysed state of affairs in Garenganze after Msidi's 
 death, came westward, and on the way rendered good help at 
 Nana's in building, etc., and has since done further service by 
 taking a caravan to the coast to meet the new party from England. 
 Mr. Schindler is again at Nana's, but has not yet fixed on a sphere 
 of service. 
 
 Now that the disorder in Garenganze is subsiding we may 
 hope that a time of blessing from God will follow, and that 
 before long other labourers may join Messrs. Thompson and 
 Crawford. 
 
 This is the more to be looked for since Mr. Swan is now on 
 his way to the interior from Benguella with a small party, we 
 are very thankful to say. After a brief stay of nine months in 
 England he set out again on Nov. 8th, having married Miss 
 Mary Davies, of Bristol, who, it will be remembered, went with 
 Mr. and Mrs. Morris to Africa, but soon returned with the latter, 
 after Mr. Morris departed to be with Christ. Accompanying 
 Mr. and Mrs. Swan were Miss Skinner, of Bristol, and Miss 
 Lacey, who had had a thorough training as nurse at St. Thomas' 
 Hospital ; Mr. David T. Smith, of Clapton, whose knowledge of 
 building may be helpful in Africa ; and Mr. Dugald Campbell, 
 of Glasgow, whose employment in a carriage factory led him to 
 think he might be useful if waggons should become necessary for 
 African transport. 
 
 We have heard of the safe arrival of this party at Benguella, 
 and trust they are now at Kwanjulula, seeking guidance from 
 God as to their path in the vast African Continent. 
 
 On hearing of the scattering of the people in Garenganze after 
 Msidi's death, Mr. Swan had thoughts of reaching the Chivanda 
 
148 BiM and Garenganze. [March, 1893. 
 
 people, near the part where the boiUng springs are found \ but 
 when he learns that things have quieted down in Garenganze, he 
 may have it in mind to return there where he is so well known. 
 
 While many parts of Africa are now the scene of active work 
 for Christ, I am thankful for this opportunity of bringing before 
 many Christian friends the present position of matters between 
 Bihe and Garenganze. In looking back to the time when I 
 took my solitary journey to the centre of the Continent in 1886, 
 I can only thank God that He has stirred up the hearts of not 
 a few to care for this part of Africa. The steps of twenty-seven 
 persons have been directed thither, and though three of these 
 were only permitted to lay down their lives in the Dark Continent, 
 the rest are yet alive, and nineteen are now at work. My wife 
 and I hope to return as soon as possible, and more labourers, 
 we trust, will follow. 
 
 After very prolonged suffering for three years in Garenganze, 
 Mr. Faulknor returned to England, January 30th, 1892, and 
 being now greatly restored in health, I am preparing to set out 
 with him to visit Canada, his native land. 
 
 Regarding the contents of this volume I would ask, that 
 whatever moves the sympathy and compassion of hearts ac- 
 quainted with the love of God, may be made again and again 
 a matter for prayer. 
 
 Fred. S. Arnot. 
 
 3, Diamond Terrace, Greenwich, 
 March, 1893. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 African Antipathies, 102 
 
 African Despots, 60 
 
 American Missionaries, 7, 16, 23, 81 
 
 Ant Hills, 29 
 
 Arabs, 140 
 
 Bia, Capt., 130, 143 
 
 Bihe, King of, 19, 20 
 
 Bird, C. W., 79, 84 ; Arrived at Nana's, 86 
 
 Blacksmiths, 36 
 
 Boiling Springs, 94 
 
 Buffaloes, 54 
 
 Bunkeya, 60, J28 
 
 Camp, Native, 35 ; A Meeting in, 84 
 
 Campbell, D., 147 
 
 Carriers, Scarcity of, 7 ; Delays of, 9 
 
 Chibokwe Country, 28 
 
 Chiefs (their names also indicate towns) — 
 Boma, 33 ; Bulunda, 96 ; Cifuntwi, 139 ; 
 Cayo, 115 ; Chinguangua, 17 ; Chin- 
 yama, 37 ; Cipona, 131 ; Cisake, 144 ; 
 Ciyombo, 140 ; Kakeso, 96 ; Kanangila, 
 99 ; Kanemba, 97 ; Kangombe, 37, 44 ; 
 Kapoko, 25 ; Kasombo, 27 ; Katema, 
 45, 46 ; Katombolo, 46 ; Kazembe, 57, 
 III, 117; Kumbura, 141; IMufunga, 
 137 ; Mukandavantu, 121, 127 ; Mu- 
 tombo Mukulu, 97 ; Mutwila, 134 ; Nana 
 Kandundu, 37, 49 ; Ntenke, 142 ; Peho, 
 31 ; Sandombe, 27 
 
 Cold, Intense, 94 
 
 Congo Free State, 92, 113, 124 
 
 Copper Mines, 56 
 
 Crawford, D., 5, 6, 24; Arrival at Garen- 
 ganze, 60, 73 ; Narrative of events at 
 Garenganze, 113 ; Diaries, 25, 49, 113, 
 121, 132 
 
 Cruelty, Mutual, 135 
 
 Darling, Miss, 79, 146 
 Davies, Miss, 11, 16, 147 
 Dialects, 118 
 
 Diamba Smoking, 100, 105 
 Difficulties of the Work, 72 
 
 Earthworms, 54 
 Elephants, 54, 96 
 
 Farewell Meeting, 2 
 
 Faulknor, W. L , 58 ; Illness of, 62 ; 
 Return to Bihe, 77 ; to England, 148 
 Fisher, G. , 5 ; Return to England, 16 
 Fisher, Dr. VV., 11, 79, 146 
 Flat, Kifumadji, 42 
 Food, Scarcity of, 30, 129 
 
 Gall, R. B., II ; Death of, 16 
 Garenganze, 57, 62, 113 ; Fall of, 121 
 Gilchrist, Miss, 11, 84, 87, 89 
 Groves, H., Address by, 2 
 
 Hippopotamus, 76 
 Honey, 30 
 Huts, 29, 47 
 
 Johnston, R. J., 11 ; Death of, 13 
 
 Kwanjulula, 17, 18 ; Hopeful Signs at, 89 
 
 Lacey, Miss, 147 [117 
 
 Lakes, Dilolo, 45 ; Kalundu, 40 ; Moero, 
 Lane, F. T., 5, 24 ; Arrival at Garen- 
 ganze, 60, 73 
 Le Marinel, Commander, 92 
 Leopard Shot, 71 
 Lion, Power of a, 70 
 Luluaburg, 104 
 Lusambo, 103 
 Lynn, J., 79, 147 
 
 Minstrels, 33, 41 
 
 Mirage, 43 
 
 Morris, T. H., 11 ; Death of, 15 
 
 Morris, Mrs., Return of, 16 
 
 Msidi, 58, 6r, 64; Treatment of an Em- 
 bassy, 68 ; Character of, 113, 126, 144 ; 
 Mode of Government, 120; Death, 
 
 Munnoch, A., 5, 147 [125 
 
 Murrain, G. R., 79 
 
 Nana Kandundu, 49 ; The Queen's fears 
 
 dispelled, 86 
 Natural Affection, 136 
 
 Palm Trees, 95 ; Palm Wine, 105 
 Portuguese, Suspicions of, 21 ; Send a 
 Force to Bihe, 22 ; Satisfied, 23 
 
 Rivers — Bushimai, 99 ; Chonga, 39, 
 spring, 36 ; Congo, 107 ; Kasai, 97, 107 ; 
 Kasanga, 115 ; Kifumadji, 43 : Kwanza, 
 25 ; Loamba, 46 ; Luachi, 51 ; Lualaba, 
 56, 95; Luapula, 117; Lubelash, 97; 
 Lubisi, 97 ; Luemba, 97 ; Luena, 34, 86; 
 Luenga, 97 ; Lufira, 75. 113, 134 ; Lufoi, 
 114; Lufuwa, 46; Lufwa, 141; Luilu, 
 99 ; Luisi, 141 ; Lukoleshe, 54 ; Luluwa, 
 55; Luluzi, 47; Lumami, 96; Lumesa, 
 31; Lutembwa, 46 ; Luvoi, 96 ; Luwuri, 
 54 ; Ndala Kavala, 34 ; Ohio, 99 ; 
 Saleno, 31; Sankuru, 97; Usimoi, 33; 
 Zambesi, 52 
 
 Rubber, 29 
 
ISO 
 
 Index. 
 
 Schindler, F. , 79 ; Arrival at Nana Kan- 
 
 dundu, 87 
 Senhor Porto, 17, 19 ; Death of, 21 
 Sharpe, Mr., at Msidi's, 73 
 Skinner, Miss, 147 
 Slave Caravan, 28 ; Girl restored, 5a ; 
 
 Baby redeemed, 55 
 Slavery, Horrors of, 87 
 Smith, D. T. , 147 
 Snakes, 63, 75 
 Sorghum, 119, 133 
 " Sponges," 116 
 Stairs, Capt., 122, 124, 130 
 Stanley Pool, 107 
 Superstitions, 66, 74 
 Swan, C. A., 58 ; in Garenganze, 62 ; Left 
 
 for Lusambo, 93 ; Arrived in England, 
 
 109 ; Returned to Africa, 147 
 
 Theft by Night, 39 
 
 Thompson, H. B., 11, 24; Letter from, 48 ; 
 Arrival at Garenganze, 60, 73 ; Left 
 for Bihd, 77 ; Returned to Garenganze, 
 84, no, 123 
 Tribute, 25, 39 
 
 Tribes — Bachoko, 98 ; Bakuba, io3_; 
 Bambwe, loi ; Ba-shilange, 100 ; Chi- 
 vanda, 147 ; Lunda, 50 ; Va-loimbe, 26 ; 
 Va-lomotwa, 138; Va-lovale, 37; Va- 
 lungwana, 119; Va-sanga, in; Vene 
 Kilamba, 96 
 
 Utalama, 15, 81 
 
 Zebra Plains, 55 
 
 London: J, E. Hawkins and Co., Ltd., 
 
 MILDMAY HOUSE, 
 17, PATERNOSTER ROW, E.C. ; AND 36, BAKER STREET, W. 
 
Published twice a Month. Part I., Id.; Part II., Jd. 
 
 ECHOES OF SERVICE: 
 EccorlJ of labour in tbe tovti's l^amc in manp lanUs. 
 
 Edited by J. L. MACLEAN, M.D. and W. H. BENNET. 
 
 Price Is. 6d., post-free. 
 
 MEMORIAL VOLUME OF THE LATE HENRY GROVES, 
 
 CONSISTING OF 
 
 FaUtable bxitf papers turt'tten hv f)im for " ?£cj)0fs of Sfrbitr." 
 
 CO.VTENTS. 
 Going forth in the Lord's Name — The Signs of the Times — Proved Servants — The 
 Parting Command — Paul's Aim as an Evangelist — Self-Sacrifice — Whole-Hearted Service 
 — The Want of Means — Preparation for Ministry — The Secret of Rest — A Danger— 
 "Endure Hardness" — A Breakdown — "Cast Down, but Not Destroyed" — Why are 
 we Blessed? — "Continue in Prayer" — The Care of Newly-Gathered Churches — The 
 Harvest and the Labourers — The Apostolic Mission — The Conditions of the Apostolic 
 Mission — Fellow-Helpers to the Truth — A Wilderness Song — Resist not Evil — The Battle 
 is the Lord's — "The Heavens Opened" — The Lord Jesus in the Mission Field — "Go up 
 to the Mountain" — The Power of the Cross of Christ — Letters of Commendation— Joy in 
 Heaven — Ministering of our Substance — Mutual Subjection — The God of Hope — "Time 
 is Short" — "Your Faith Groweth Exceedingly" — Nazarite Strength— The Song of Mary 
 — Mammon Stewardship— Faith- Work — "Helps" — "Faith and Patience" — Comfort in 
 Affliction — "Spikenard very Costly" — " From Henceforth and for Ever" — Serving in all 
 Humility — " Purpose "—" Ye are not your Own" — The Treasure in Earthen Vessels — 
 The Riches of Liberality— " Greet the Friends by Name "— El-Shaddai — "With Christ" 
 — " Full of the Holy Ghost" — Looking Back — Divine Guidance — Care for God's Servants 
 "The Prayer of Faith" — The Prize — "Ye did it unto Me" — Unfailing Mercy — The 
 Winnowing Fan — "Nothing Between" — "Come up Hither" — Our Nets — A Man of 
 Prayer — "Watchman, What of the Night?" — The "Morning without Clouds" — 
 Harmony among Workers— The Barrel of Meal and the Cruse of Oil — The Discouraged 
 Servant and his God — On Finishing our Course^God's Mysterious Ways — The Call to 
 Special Service — How to avoid Unfruitful Service— »Not Accepting Deliverance — Four 
 "Alls" of Christ's Commission — God's Charge to His Servants — Strength for Service — 
 The Thoughtfulness of God— The Weeping Sower — The Debt of Love— A Sychar 
 Ministry — The Man of God — Mouth and Hand — A Threefold Qualification for Service— 
 The Ministry of Women^"They Sent Them" — The Willing Heart and the Wise Heart 
 — "The Best," Have we given it ?— Solomon's Prayer — Why this Waste ? — What have ye ? 
 — Remembrance — The Messenger and His Message — "One Spirit" and "One Soul" — 
 "The Lord Reigneth." 
 
 LONDON : J. E., HAWKINS & Co., Ltd., 
 
 mildmav house, i7, paternoster row, e.g. ; and 36, baker street, w. 
 
 Bath: "Echoes of Service" Offick. 
 
Price 2s. 6d.; Cloth, 3s. 6d., post-free. 
 
 GARENGANZE; 
 ©r, ^t)atn pears' ptonccr Jltission SUorfe in Central Africa. 
 
 By FRED. S. ARNOT. 
 
 IVitk Twenty Illustrations, and an Original Map prepared by the 
 Royal Geographical Society. 
 
 LONDON : J. E. HAWKINS & Co., Ltd., 
 
 imild.may house, 17, paternoster row, ex.; and 36, baker street, \v. 
 
 Bath: "Echoes of Service" Office. 
 
GO 
 
 oo 
 
 
 CD 
 
BW9400 .A764 
 
 Bihe and Garenganze, or, Four years' 
 
 IMlirill'"" ^^^°'°5'"l Seminary-Speer Library 
 
 Paper I 
 
 ,3/6. 
 
 1 1012 00043 0936 , 
 GMrtCLINVJini^^ J, 
 
 OR 
 
 SKVEl^ YEARS PIONEER MISSION WORK 
 
 IN 
 
 CENTRAL AFRICA 
 
 (THIRD EDITION), 
 
 BY 
 
 FBEDEKICK STANLEY ABNOT. 
 
 OPINIONS OP THE PRESS. 
 
 " A valuable addition to the missionary literature of the Dark Continent." 
 
 C. H. SptjRGEON, Sword and Trowel. 
 
 " Mr. F. S. Arnot is a true and modest disciple of Moffatt and Livingstone. 
 He has the same noble end in view ; and like them, he is endeavouring to 
 accomi lish it by the same sensible means. . . . His book will be widely read 
 for the intrinsic interest of the story which the author has to tell." — The 
 Times. 
 
 •' Every page of it is filled with living interest." — Glasgow Herald. 
 
 " This book is full of interest, and opens up clear views of the character of 
 mission work as it is really carried on in the heart of Africa. . . . Admirably 
 simple and truthful." — Literary World. 
 
 " As a record of missionary effort, the volume recalls the days of Moffatt 
 and Livingstone, to which pioneers Mr. Arnot is a worthy successor. We 
 earnestly recommend our readers to get a copy of this work as speedily as 
 possible." — Footsteps of Truth. 
 
 " This is a most interesting account of missionary and pioneer work in 
 Central Africa. . . . The narrative is of thrilling interest, and much new light 
 is thrown upon the manners and customs of the interior."— Sf<//orrf Record. 
 
 " A remarkable story of adventure, patient endurance, quiet heroism, and 
 earnest purpose, rarely equalled. The name of Arnot must now be added to 
 the list of great African travellers and of devoted African missionaries. ... 
 The story from beginning to end is told in plain unvarnished language, and in 
 the greatest simplicity of spirit, but is of absorbing interest." — London 
 Missionary Society Chronicle. 
 
 " We do not want any of our readers to rest content without reading 
 Garenganze for theiuselves."— FriVwrf of Missions. 
 
 "This book is replete with exciting incidents." — Illustrated Missionary 
 News. 
 
 "One of the t.iost thrilling interesting records of missionary pioneering work 
 we have ever read." — Edinburgh Missionary Quarterly Paper. 
 
 " All persons interested in African missions should look at Garenganze."— 
 Record. 
 
 " Well worth reading."— TA^ Standard. 
 
 "We Eincerely trust that this inspiring book will run through many 
 editions." — The Christian. (Second notice.) 
 
 ■M 
 
 London:— J. E. HAWKINS & CO., Limited.