Cr L'*- ^ L* <. 
 
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 LIBRARY 
 
 OF THE 
 
 Theological 
 
 Seminary, 
 
 PRINCETON, N. J. 
 
 
 Division D5.I+85.. 
 
 Shelf, 
 
 Secii o n . ...0. .7. 
 
 Book , 
 
 ...No,. v?. 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
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Digitized by the Internet Archive 
 in 2016 
 
 https://archive.org/details/descriptionofcey02cord_1 
 
A 
 
 DESCRIPTION 
 
 OF 
 
 CEYLON, 
 
 CONTAINING 
 
 AN ACCOUNT OF THE COUNTRY, INHABITANTS, 
 
 AND 
 
 NATURAL PRODUCTIONS; 
 
 • WITH 
 
 NARRATIVES OF A TOUR ROUND THE ISLAND IN 1800, THE 
 CAMPAIGN IN CANDY IN 1803, AND A JOURNEY 
 TO RAMISSERAM IN 1804. 
 
 ILLUSTRATED BY 
 
 €tuentj)=fitie Cngrabmgs from ®rtgtttal :Dratomgg. 
 
 By the Reverend JAMES CORDINER , A.M. 
 
 LATE CHAPLAIN TO THE GARRISON OF COLUMBO. 
 
 IN TWO VOLUMES. 
 
 VOL. II. 
 
 LONDON: 
 
 PRINTED FOR LONGMAN, HURST, REES, AND ORME, PATERNOSTER ROW; 
 AND A. BROWN, ABERDEEN. 
 
 1807. 
 
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 1 , V- • A v ■ 
 
 T. Beasley, Printer, Bolt Court, 
 Fleet Street, London. 
 
CONTENTS OF VOLUME II. 
 
 PART FIRST. 
 
 DESCRIPTION OF CEYLON. 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 Page 
 
 Journey to Ramisseram — Voyage from Columbo to Aripo — 
 Stage from that to Manaar — Ramisseram Pagodas — 
 Choultries — Dancing girls — Swamy coaches — Pandaram 
 — Adams bridge 1 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 Pearl fishery — Country about Aripo — The Governor s house 
 — Condaatchy — Examination of the Pearl Ranks — Pearl 
 oyster — Commencement of the fishery — Mode of diving — 
 Washing of the oysters — Sifting — Sorting — and drilling 
 of the pearls — Speculations — Nature of the pearl — Re- 
 view of former and later fisheries — Jugglers — Female 
 tumbler — Conjurers 36 
 
IV CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER XVII. 
 
 Page 
 
 Journey of William, Orr , Esq. from Tengalle to Batticaloe — 
 Directions for steering into the hay of Tengalle — Situa- 
 tion of the well — Ravages committed by elephants and 
 other wild animals — Low state of cultivation — Ruinous 
 condition of the Tanks — Decrease of population — Leways 
 or natural Salt Bans — Manner of collecting the salt — 
 Hints for improving and facilitating the process — Wild 
 country — Curious rocks 79 
 
 CHAPTER XVIII. 
 
 Journey of Thomas Christie , Esq. from Trincomallee to Bat- 
 ticaloe, and from that to Matura — Tamblegam Pagoda — 
 Lake of Candelye — Maha-villa-ganga — Wild Cinnamon — 
 Dyke at Collar — Pagoda at Tricoil — Female dancers — 
 Ogandamally rock — Hambangtotte . . 127 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 Extract from “ A Journal of a Tour round Ceylon ,” by 
 Thomas Anthony Reeder, Esq. late Surgeon of his Ma- 
 jesty’s 51st regiment of foot, and Acting Inspector of 
 hospitals in the island. “ From Batticaloe to Tengalle .” 145 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 V 
 
 PART SECOND. 
 
 CANDIAN WARFARE. 
 
 A NARRATIVE OF THE CAMPAIGN IN 1803. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 Various communications with the government of Candy pre- 
 vious to the war — Causes of the campaign in 1803 — 
 March of two divisions of British troops from Columbo, 
 and Trincomallee to Candy 155 
 
 r 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 Arrival of prince Mootto Sawmy in Candy — Articles of con- 
 vention between him and the British government — Expe- 
 dition from Candy to Hangaramketty — Return of part 
 of the troops to Columbo — Subsequent mortality — Con- 
 ference between the governor and adigaar at Dambadenia 184 
 
 CHAPTER III. “ 
 
 Sickness and distress in Candy — Massacre of the British 
 troops — Retreat of Captain Madge from fort Macdowall 
 — Relief of Dambadenia 203 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 Descents of the Candians on the British territories — Result of 
 
 the attack meditated against Columbo — Various skir- 
 mishes 221 
 
VI 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 Page 
 
 Extracts from the general Medical Repoi't of the troops 
 serving in Ceylon, for the month of April 1803 . . . 262 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 Embassy from Columbo to the court of Candy in the year 
 
 1800 . . ' 287 " 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 Knox’s Account of the Kitig and government of Candy in 
 the year 1681 — The Kings great officers and governors 
 of provinces — Military strength, and mode of warfare 324 
 
PART FIRST. 
 
 DESCRIPTION OF CEYLON. 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 JOURNEY TO RAMISSERAM — VOYAGE FROM COLOMBO TO ARIPO 
 
 STAGE FROM THAT TO MANAAR — RAMISSERAM PAGODAS — CHOUL- 
 TRIES — DANCING GIRLS — SWAMY COACHES — PANDARAM — ADAM’S 
 BRIDGE. 
 
 Early in the year 1804, having a prospect of soon leaving 
 Ceylon, I was induced to embrace the only opportunity, which 
 would probably ever be afforded me, of visiting the celebrated 
 Pearl Fishery in the gulph of Manaar. Trifling as must be an 
 unpolished narrative of such a ramble, it may not be unac- 
 ceptable, when the public, from higher testimony than that of 
 the writer, can place full dependance on its veracity. 
 
 On Tuesday the seventh of February, at sun-rise, we sailed 
 from Columbo, on board the government brig Alexander, 
 bound for Aripo. The land wind, which blew when we weighed 
 anchor, continued until ten o’clock A. M. after which it be- 
 came calm. The sea breeze set in gradually about noon, and 
 favoured us until seven P. M. when it veered towards the 
 north, and we dropped our anchor in six fathoms water, a 
 
 VOL. II. 
 
 B 
 
2 
 
 JOURNEY TO RAMISSERAM. 
 
 little to the north of Negombo. At twelve o’clock at night we 
 got under weigh with the land wind, and, at day-break, found 
 ourselves off Chilauw, Adam’s Peak bearing south east, and a 
 long chain of mountains in view, stretching to the northward, 
 over the most northerly of which the sun rose. 
 
 During this part of the voyage we saw a great number of 
 porpoises sporting in the water, and turning round like a 
 wheel : likewise shoals of smaller fishes, making the appear- 
 ance of ripplings on the water. Swarms of flies constantly 
 attended us, gliding backward and forward on the water, at 
 the same time keeping an exact pace with the motion of the 
 vessel. The bottom of the sea was seen distinctly, in nine and 
 a half fathoms water, to the northward of Chilauw, shewing 
 common sand, small black rocks, stones, and white shells. 
 The weather was extremely fine, the sea smooth, and the 
 breezes gentle. The land wind continued until ten o’clock 
 A. M. immediately after which the sea breeze commenced. 
 It served us until a little after sun-set, (about six o’clock P.M.) 
 when we anchored, in five and a half fathoms water, off that 
 part of the peninsula of Calpenteen known by the name of 
 Navary. A light breeze came off the land about ten o’clock 
 P. M. when we again weighed anchor, but the wind was so 
 faint that we made but little way during the night, and at 
 eight o’clock A. M. [9th February] we were perfectly be- 
 calmed; and the vessel, no longer under command, turned her 
 head towards the shore. A heavy fog hung over the land at 
 day-break, which the sun, as he rose, dispersed upon the sea. 
 
JOURNEY TO RAMISSERAM. 
 
 3 
 
 Two large turtles and one shark came very near the ship ; and 
 we saw several dolphins and flying fishes which they were pur- 
 suing. The water opposite to the extreme point of Calpenteen 
 is very deep, and appears of a dark blue colour. No bottom 
 could be found at fifty fathoms. The peninsula of Calpenteen 
 is very low, and its soil is sandy. In many parts of it there 
 is no produce but low brush wood: in others, groves of cocoa- 
 nut trees appear. The main land frequently rises gently over 
 it: but very high grounds are not to be seen, there being no 
 mountains on this side of the island. About twenty minutes 
 past ten o’clock A. M. the sea breeze commenced close to the 
 shore, whilst our vessel was surrounded by a dead calm. The 
 first of the wind reached us about eleven o’clock, and gradu- 
 ally freshened until we made five miles an hour. Had the 
 bottom of the vessel been sheathed with copper, she would 
 have cut the water much faster. The breeze lasted until half 
 past six P. M. and, on its decline, we anchored in a quarter 
 less than three fathoms water, upwards of two leagues from the 
 shore. This day a green paroquet lighted on one of the sails 
 of our vessel. 
 
 As we were now very nearly in the latitude of Aripo, we 
 did not get under weigh until four o’clock in the morning of 
 the tenth, Avhen we stood to the northward with the land wind: 
 our soundings gradually deepened, and at ten A. M. we had 
 a full view of Aripo, three or four leagues distant. But having 
 run down too much latitude, and finding our soundings de- 
 crease to two fathoms and a half, we thought it prudent, once 
 
4 
 
 JOURNEY TO RAMISSERAM. 
 
 more, to let go our anchor, as there is a reef of rocks in the 
 neighbourhood, with the situation of which we were not suffi- 
 ciently acquainted. No boat came to us from the shore, and 
 in the afternoon our own boat was sent to Aripo, with a re- 
 quest that boats might be dispatched to land us, our baggage, 
 and the stores belonging to the governor. None, however, 
 arrived until next morning, when a fleet of Negombo fishing 
 boats surrounded the vessel, these being the only conveyances 
 at that time ready to assist us : and they had come on specu- 
 lation, to gain what they could by catching fish, and. selling 
 them for the refreshment of the adventurers at the pearl 
 market. In each of these boats we landed as many articles as 
 it would contain, but their construction did not admit of their 
 transporting much baggage at one time; being merely canoes 
 hollowed out of a single tree, and trimmed with out-riggers, 
 exactly according to the fashion of those already described as 
 used at Columbo. The brig got under weigh again about 
 noon on the 11th, and stood a little nearer to the shore, steer- 
 ing south west towards the bay of Condaatchy, the rendezvous 
 of the boats employed in the pearl fishery. The numerous 
 shoals which lie in this direction made our commander afraid 
 
 to approach too near the land. Accordingly at two o’clock 
 
 «» 
 
 P. M. we anchored, in a quarter less than three fathoms water, 
 about five miles from the governor’s house at Aripo. About 
 four o’clock my fellow passenger, George Laughton, Esq. in- 
 spector of pearl banks, and I, landed in one of the fishing 
 boats. On our arrival we met his Excellency the Honourable 
 
JOURNEY TO RAMISSERAM. 
 
 5 
 
 Frederic North, and suite, who had performed the journey over 
 land, and reached Aripo two hours before us. 
 
 Some days afterwards, preparations not being in sufficient 
 readiness for the commencement of the fishery, Thomas Christie, 
 Esq. the superintendant general of hospitals in Ceylon, pro- 
 posed to me that he and I should amuse ourselves in the in- 
 termediate time, by paying a visit to the sacred island of 
 Ramisseram. Accordingly we set out from Aripo at half past 
 five o’clock A. M. on the 14th of February. After travelling 
 twenty minutes, we reached a river of considerable depth and 
 breadth, where there was no boat. Our bearers, however, 
 forded it, tucking up their clothes, and resting the body, in- 
 stead of the poles, of the palanquin upon their shoulders, to 
 prevent its immersion in the water. The country had been 
 lately covered with one general inundation, the remains of 
 which were then visible ; and we had to cross several ravines, 
 which, at that time, bore the appearance of rivulets. The 
 first part of the road is cut through thick jungle, composed of 
 very beautiful shrubs, amongst which are conspicuous a white 
 convolvulus, a rich yellow flower resembling laburnum, a bush 
 of a delicate texture like moss, the euphorbium trigonum, 
 and the cock-spur thorn, a species of acacia in full blossom, 
 having an orange-coloured round flower. The remainder of 
 the road winds through meadow grounds, and an extensive 
 plain of barren sand. This is almost the only portion of 
 Ceylon which wears an aspect of sterility. The country is 
 perfectly flat all the way, and so seldom presents clumps of 
 
6 
 
 JOURNEY TO RAMISSERAM. 
 
 large trees, that the appearance of the palm groves of Manaar 
 afforded our weary eyes a very seasonable refreshment. The 
 island of Manaar is all low ground, composed of shells and 
 sand, apparently worked up by the waves. The arm of the 
 sea which separates it from Ceylon is, at high water, from two 
 to three miles in breadth; but, at ebb tide, it sinks into a very 
 narrow channel, which flows between the two shores like a 
 river. At that time it may be crossed at a ford, or bar of 
 sand, where the depth of water does not exceed two feet and 
 a half. We arrived at this channel whilst the tide flowed, 
 twenty minutes past eight A. M. and it took us nearly one 
 hour to cross over, the sheet of water being then upwards of 
 two miles broad. The palanquin bearers waded, supporting 
 their loads the greater part of the passage, and only went into 
 a boat when they came to the deepest part of the strait, which 
 winds close to the fort of Manaar. 
 
 This little island, and the adjacent low' country, had been, 
 for nearly three months, extremely unhealthy from lying so 
 long under water; and a great proportion of the inhabitants 
 had died of a fever, of exactly the same description as the 
 jungle, or hill fever of India. It carried off six or seven per- 
 sons every day at Manaar, and nearly as many in each of the 
 villages around it. The people of this isle, from its low situa- 
 tion, are, in general, sickly one month in the year, but, this 
 season, the disease had been rendered more than commonly 
 severe, by an unusual continuance of rain. Aripo suflered 
 great mortality from the same cause. A flux attacked many 
 
JOURNEY TO RAMISSERAM. 
 
 7 
 
 of the patients while labouring under the fever, and in- 
 creased the malignity of the disorder. The inhabitants did 
 not expect the climate to become healthy until after the 
 setting in of the south west monsoon, which commences in 
 ' April. 
 
 In the neighbourhood of Manaar a Chanque fishery is 
 carried on, and proves a valuable article of revenue to go- 
 vernment. The shells are fished up by divers in about two 
 fathoms depth of water, but not after the same manner as the 
 pearl oysters. When the weather is calm, the chanques are 
 seen, from a boat, moving in the bottom of the sea; and the 
 diver often follows a single one with his eye for a considerable 
 space, when he is always sure of being conducted to a richly 
 covered bank, where he can fish with advantage. These shells, 
 which are of a spiral form, are chiefly exported to Bengal, 
 where they are sawed into rings of various sizes, and worn on 
 the arms, legs, fingers and toes of the Hindoos, both male and 
 female. They are, likewise, used entire to sound as a horn at 
 funerals, and are employed for other purposes in religious 
 ceremonies. A chanque opening to the right hand is highly 
 valued by the natives of India, and, being rarely found, always 
 sells for its weight in gold. 
 
 We saw here, amongst the grass, large quantities of the 
 Chaia root, which is used as a red dye, and exported to the 
 coast of Coromandel. The plant grows wild, and the privilege 
 of digging it is farmed out by government for one thousand 
 pounds sterling per annum, by which means it has become so 
 expensive an article, that the natives of Manaar, who formerly 
 
8 
 
 JOURNEY TO RAMISSERAM. 
 
 used it in dying their cloths, cannot now afford to purchase it. 
 The gathering of it without a license is, of course, prohibited. 
 The root is small, fine, and white; but when bruised, and 
 mixed with 'calcined shells, the juice becomes red. The leaves 
 are small like those of thyme, the flowers white and diminutive, 
 of the form of a violet; and the plant vegetates in close adhe- 
 sion to the ground. 
 
 In the evening we walked a few miles through a part of 
 the island entirely uncultivated, but abounding in a variety of 
 beautiful plants and flowers. The soil is merely loose sand, 
 and the palmyra-trees, its most valuable production, do not 
 look flourishing. They appear to have thriven well in favour- 
 able seasons, but in others to have been interrupted in their 
 growth, the stems, in some places, being contracted for the 
 height of a few feet, and, in others, swelled out to the usual size. 
 
 Here grows a curious thorn of the genus of Acacia or 
 Mimosa. The branches extend horizontally, beginning about 
 the middle of the trunk ; and becoming gradually shorter, like 
 those of the yew, from the lowest to the highest, give the tree 
 a conical form, from which peculiarity it has been called the 
 umbrella tree. The leaves are extremely small and pinnated, 
 the flowers white and globular; and the branches are covered 
 with slender white thorns, about an inch and a half in length, 
 sharp pointed, and of an equal thickness throughout. This 
 thorn is entirely different from that which resembles a cock’s 
 spur, which grows in pairs, is broad at the base, and gradually 
 tapers towards the point. 
 
JOURNEY TO RAMISSERAM. 
 
 9 
 
 The inhabitants of this place have the appearance of greater 
 indigence than those of any other of the British settlements in 
 Ceylon. The village and the fort look ruinous and deserted: 
 many of the buildings in the latter are unroofed, and hastening 
 to decay. Barracks for one hundred soldiers, and a small hos- 
 pital, are still habitable. The fort and the village are separated 
 by a walk one quarter of a mile in length, which is shaded by 
 trees belonging to the species called Portia, Hibiscus Popul- 
 neus, or Tulip tree. 
 
 We embarked, with our palanquins and bearers, at the 
 wharf of Manaar, on board of a large doney, or covered boat, 
 at eight o’clock P. M. and did not get clear of the channel 
 until past ten. The vessel grounding several times on sand- 
 banks, occasioned this delay. We sailed until one o’clock A.M. 
 on the loth, when our pilot, afraid of venturing out to sea in 
 the night, let down his anchor off the south west angle of Ma- 
 naar, distinguished by the name of Talmanaar. We got under 
 weigh at day break, and passed the extremity of Talmanaar 
 about seven o’clock in the morning. Nothing was to be seen, 
 at this point, but low sandy 'ground, a thick grove of palmyra 
 trees, and a small herd of black cattle. The island of Ramis- 
 seram appeared in sight about two o’clock P. M. and, the 
 wind turning foul, we landed, at four o’clock, on a projecting 
 sand beach, nearly four miles from the great pagoda. This is 
 the nearest channel of communication between Ceylon and 
 the continent of India: and the direct distance between the 
 islands of Manaar and Ramisseram appears to be about twenty 
 
 VOL. II. c 
 
10 
 
 JOURNEY TO RAMISSERAM. 
 
 English miles. We proceeded along the sand to the nearest 
 choultry, or place built for the accommodation of strangers, 
 which is situate about half a mile from the grand temple of 
 Shivven. Of this edifice we had a full view as we advanced; 
 but the external appearance is not remarkably grand, and at a 
 distance it is impossible to form an idea of the minute orna- 
 ments and laboured workmanship, which strike the eye on a 
 nearer inspection. All the architecture, which is seen without 
 doors, dwindles into insignificance when compared to the mag- 
 nificent works -which form the interior of the pagoda. When 
 the whole structure is examined, the extent of masonic labour 
 there displayed is probably not surpassed in any of the most 
 splendid cathedrals in Europe. In the accompanying plate 
 the pagoda is represented at a distance, and a small choultry 
 in ruins occupies the foreground. 
 
 Soon after landing we met a native woman on horseback, 
 attended by a man servant likewise mounted, which appeared 
 to us an uncommon sight, and it would certainly be esteemed 
 a striking curiosity in Ceylon. We afterwards saw a great 
 number of small horses, which are there constantly used both 
 for conveying travellers, and transporting goods. 
 
 The choultry, where w r e lodged, is situate close to the 
 sea beach. In front of it rows of tamarind and portia trees 
 stretch along the shore. These are neatly encompassed by 
 square parapets raised two or three feet from the ground, the 
 space within being filled with mould, and smoothed over with 
 plaster, forming comfortable terraces, where the palanquin 
 
JOURNEY TO RAMISSERAM. 
 
 11 
 
 bearers enjoyed refreshment and rest in a cool and pleasant 
 shade. 
 
 We walked round the walls of the temple before sun-set. 
 On our appearance at the east gate, we were saluted by a com- 
 pany of brahmins, who presented us with betel, and areca nuts 
 in silver vases, and a rich liquid paste in a silver bason. We, 
 in return, dropped into the hands of the principal door-keeper 
 a small sum of money, which was well received. 
 
 After we had dined, several brahmins waited upon us at 
 our choultry, accompanied by five well dressed dancing girls, 
 who entertained us with their exhibitions for upwards of an hour. 
 They themselves appeared to feel as much amusement in the 
 performance as the assembly which crowded round them: 
 and they would have continued their dance much longer, had 
 not we, according to the custom of the country, signified to 
 them that they had our leave to depart. An Indian, even of 
 superior rank, will not quit the house where he is a guest with- 
 out asking permission of its master: and an inferior would think 
 it a breach of politeness to stir, until plainly told that he is at 
 liberty to retire. The girls, in the course of dancing, displayed 
 their hands and arms in singular and various positions, and 
 their persons in every graceful attitude. Sometimes they placed 
 the thumb of the right hand upon the chin, with the fingers 
 spread out, and the thumb of the left hand on the little finger 
 of the right. Sometimes the} 7 approached and receded in the 
 style of a minuet, saluted one another, kneeled in a line, joined 
 hands and went round together in a circle, singing and keeping 
 
12 JOURNEY TO RAMISSERAM. 
 
 every joint in motion all the time. The airs which they sung 
 possessed both sprightliness and melody: and several of the 
 brahmins joined in the chorus, accompanied by the music of 
 clarions, tom-toms, and cymbals. Some of the songs seemed 
 mingled with warm expressions of devotion, and appeared well 
 calculated, by strength of utterance, to rouze and elevate the 
 mind. One, in which the name Mootto Sawmy Rajah was 
 often pathetically invoked, seemed peculiarly animated and 
 plaintive. Two of the girls appeared to be about sixteen years 
 of age, and three of them nearly thirty. They were neatly 
 dressed afj;er the Malabar fashion, and no part of their persons 
 was uncovered, except their arms, feet, and ancles, and a few 
 inches in the middle of the back. Beneath the flowing gar- 
 ment which forms the principal piece of dress, they wore short 
 shifts firmly girded under their breasts, and not longer than 
 necessary for the purpose of covering them. In the dance 
 they occasionally held out, in one hand, the end of the mantle, 
 presented it to one another, threw it carelessly over the shoulder, 
 and folded it loosely round the waist, in a style somewhat re- 
 sembling the shawl dance in the London opera. • The greater 
 part of them had broad gold rings round their necks, their ears 
 covered with jewels, a stud set with precious stones on the left 
 side of the nose, loads of bangles about the ancles and wrists, 
 and brilliant rings on the toes and fingers. But notwithstand- 
 ing these strange and tawdry ornaments, the dress, taken alto- 
 gether, looks elegant and becoming. Fifteen of these girls be- 
 long to this temple; and, whatever money they receive for their 
 
JOURNEY TO RAMISSERAM. 
 
 13 
 
 exhibitions, they give to its support. They are prohibited from 
 marrying, but not bound down to a life of virginity. When 
 they bear children, the daughters are brought up to follow the 
 employments of their mothers; and the sons are educated as 
 musicians for the service of the pagoda. 
 
 Next morning another party of brahmins waited upon us, 
 accompanied by servants carrying trays loaded with presents; 
 amongst which were, one large round pudding, a great quan- 
 tity of cakes, plantains, sweet smelling flowers, and betel in the 
 usual style, an article which they deem so essential as never to 
 be omitted. They would not permit any part of their abun- 
 dant donation to be returned, but what we did not choose to 
 receive, was distributed amongst our bearers; and those per- 
 sons, who would recoil at the thoughts of tasting any food which 
 was dressed in our houses, gratefully accepted the dishes which 
 were prepared by the sacred hands of a brahmin. 
 
 The good effect of the offering, which we made the preced- 
 ing evening, was perfectly apparent. On our return to the 
 great pagoda the doors were open to receive us. When con- 
 ducted into it, we were completely astonished at the grandeur 
 of the workmanship, and extent of the dimensions, which far 
 surpassed any idea that we had formed of Indian magnificence. 
 On entering the west gate, a low gallery one hundred and forty- 
 four feet in length, with three rows of pillars on each side, leads 
 down the centre of the building, after which it branches off, in 
 galleries similarly constructed, to the right and left, each ex- 
 tending one hundred and fifty feet, then running from west to 
 
14 
 
 JOURNEY TO RAMISSERAM. 
 
 east five hundred feet, and, inclosing an oblong rectangular 
 space; the two ends of the pagoda exactly correspond. The 
 gallery, at the same time, runs down the centre of the temple 
 seven hundred and eighty-eight feet; and entrances, of a like 
 nature, leading from the north and south, complete the figure 
 of a cross over the rectangular oblong space. All the galleries 
 have, on each side, triple rows of massy stone pillars, of highly 
 laboured workmanship. Those in the front line are the largest 
 and most superb, having a huge lion, with the mouth wide 
 open, sculptured, in bas relief, above three distinct capitals, 
 over which stand a scroll, and a richly ornamented cornice. 
 Statues of the size of life are attached to many of those pillars, 
 raised on pedestals, representing gods, and departed heroes, 
 who paid obeisance, or performed pilgrimages to this temple. 
 On each side of the galleries, stone pavements are raised to 
 the height of three feet, on which the pillars are erected, with 
 steps ascending to them. The roofs of all the galleries are flat, 
 composed of stones reaching across from the projection of one 
 cornice to that of the other, eighteen feet broad in the centre 
 walk, and the same on each elevated side, so that every gal- 
 lery is thirty-six feet wide; and the roof of the middle passage 
 is raised thirty feet from the floor. The number of pillars 
 within the temple amounts to two thousand six hundred and 
 twenty-eight. The edifice is enclosed, in an area, by a heavy 
 stone wall twenty feet high, eight hundred and thirty feet from 
 east to west, and six hundred and twenty-five from north to 
 south. Large as these dimensions may appear, they are but 
 
JOURNEY TO RAMISSERAM. 
 
 15 
 
 small when compared to several of the pagodas on the hither 
 peninsula of India, one of which covers a piece of ground one 
 mile square. The covered gallery, which fronts the south gate, 
 appears unfinished, and strikingly resembles the entrance into 
 the cavern of Elephanta near Bombay. The principal entrance 
 is that from the west, through the centre of the highest pyramid. 
 A slight idea of the interior structure may be conceived from 
 viewing the prints, which have been published, of the temple 
 of the sun at Palmyra. Privileged people, among whom were 
 women carrying water pitchers, appeared at all hours passing 
 and repassing through the vaults of the pagoda. The north 
 gate-way, smaller and less majestic than the others, was shut, 
 and appeared as if it were seldom opened. But we were inform- 
 ed that both that and the south entrance were unfinished; and 
 that, when the plan was completed, pyramids would be erected 
 over them, similar to that at the west gate. A fifth covered 
 passage enters into the temple in the east end, to the right of 
 the great gate, parallel to the gallery leading down the centre, 
 and in structure resembling all the others. 
 
 The towers of the temple are solid buildings, containing 
 neither apartment nor staircase, composed of a great number 
 of small pillars, formed two and two in the shape of window 
 frames or gateways, rising one above another in seven different 
 stories. Rows of fruit trees, amongst which are the cocoa-nut, 
 wood apple, plantain, and pomegranate, compose gardens, 
 extending twenty feet in breadth beyond the north and south 
 walls of the pagoda, hemmed in by clay enclosures five feet 
 
16 
 
 JOURNEY TO RAMISSERAM. 
 
 high. The temple itself is entirely built of hewn stone. The 
 western tower appears to be one hundred and fifty feet high; 
 the massy pyramid near to the east end looks lower, but is 
 not yet completed. A broad street runs parallel to each side 
 of the temple, containing comfortable dwelling houses, and 
 large choultries for the accommodation of strangers, all built 
 of stone with flat roofs, and having rows of pillars instead of 
 front walls. In one of these stood two ivory palanquins in- 
 laid with gold, the property of officers belonging to the sanc- 
 tuary. 
 
 Five swamy 1 coaches, used for the purpose of carrying the 
 idols in procession, are laid up on the sides of the east street. 
 They are solid masses of wood raised, like branches of a cor- 
 nice, one above another, and intended to symbolize a lingam. 
 The outside is covered with an extraordinary assemblage of 
 obscene images, representing lewd and indecent scenes, too 
 scandalous in the eyes of an European to admit of a descrip- 
 tion. Each carriage has four wheels of solid wood, and re- 
 quires two hundred men to draw it. When they are dragged 
 along the streets, on occasions of great solemnity, women, in 
 the phrenzy of false devotion, throw themselves down before 
 the wheels, and are crushed to death by their tremendous 
 weight, the same superstitious madness preventing the ignorant 
 crowd from making any attempt to save them. 
 
 Two hundred brahmins are attached to this temple, and 
 supported in indolence and luxury by its endowments. The 
 
 a Swamy, or saumy, is the common name given to God. 
 
JOURNEY TO RAMISSERAM. 
 
 17 
 
 pagoda is dedicated to Shi wen, the sun, or destroying power, 
 called by the vulgar Rama Lingam. It likewise contains images 
 of Vishnu the preserver, and of all the subordinate divinities. 
 Of Brahma, the Creator, they never dare to form any likeness ; 
 and it is an article of their creed that there is one Supreme 
 Being, whose temple is all space, and whose glory no earthly 
 fabric is capable of containing. They likewise believe in a 
 trinity in unity. 
 
 In common conversation in India, the people who worship 
 Vishnu, wearing perpendicular strokes of paint on their fore- 
 head, are called Gentoos: and the people who worship Shiva, 
 wearing horizontal marks, are called Malabars. 
 
 At every corner of the walls of the temple, and in every 
 street in the town, stand pagodas of small dimensions dedicated 
 to particular deities, and containing images characteristic of 
 their peculiar attributes. In some of the streets spreading 
 trees, of the species of the ficus religiosa, ficus Indica, and ta- 
 marind, are surrounded with square terraces, built of stone, 
 and smoothed over with white plaster, on which are placed 
 little images of Polear, or Ganesa, the lingam, two serpents 
 entwined, and other emblems of Hindoo mythology. 
 
 On the afternoon of the l6th, we travelled along the isle of 
 Ramisseram from the great pagoda to the choultry at Pombon 
 on the opposite side, a distance of eight miles. In passing 
 through the town, which surrounds the temple, at two o’clock 
 P. M. we observed a crowd of brahmins washing their hands 
 
 VOL. II. 
 
 D 
 
18 
 
 JOURNEY TO RAMISSERAM. 
 
 and mouths after dinner in the street in front of their eating- 
 house. 
 
 The road to Pombon is most elegantly paved all the way 
 with smooth stones, each six feet in length and four feet broad; 
 and the greater part of it is nobly shaded by the most beauti- 
 ful and majestic trees which India produces. Amongst these 
 are nourishing in great abundance the two great fig-trees, the 
 tamarind and weel, loaded with fruit resembling the pods of 
 the tamarind, but broader, and having smaller pinnated leaves; 
 amargosa, or azedorach foliis falcato serratis, the umbrella 
 acacia, called in Malabar Avoddy, the portia, pali, and itchy. 
 All the large trees in this superb avenue are surrounded with 
 smooth terraces of masonry raised several feet from the ground, 
 on which travellers rest in comfort, completely sheltered from 
 the rays of the sun. 
 
 The island is entirely dedicated to the purposes of reli- 
 gion, and affords a genuine display of Indian hospitality. No 
 plough is allowed to break the soil; and no animal, either 
 wild or tame, is permitted to be killed upon it. Immediately 
 after leaving the precincts of the town, a large tank, or square 
 bason of water, appeared on our left hand, having flights of 
 stairs descending into it all round, and a beautiful little build- 
 ing rising out of the middle of the water, composed of square 
 pillars, and a flat roof. At the end of almost every mile stands 
 an excellent choultry, or ambalam, containing various open 
 apartments formed of stone pillars and back walls, with adjoin- 
 ing courts, in which are rooms, where travellers may lodge in 
 
JOURNEY TO RAMISSERAM. 
 
 19 
 
 greater privacy. Contiguous to each of these is a small pagoda 
 displaying through an open door a small image of Ganesa, 
 with a garland of newly culled white dowers about his neck. 
 The pagodas and ambalams are built of hewn stone with flat 
 roofs, and preserved in excellent order. They are likewise 
 provided with servants, Avho keep them clean, wait on strang- 
 ers, and distribute sustenance to poor Hindoo pilgrims, who 
 continually pass on this hallowed road to and from the far- 
 famed temple of Ramisseram. Many lingams and other images 
 stand round about the trees on the raised terraces by the way- 
 side: and, at the distance of every furlong, are erected either 
 two square pillars of single stones with one placed horizontally 
 across them, or an oblong stone of larger dimensions, like a 
 perpendicular tomb-stone. These are intended as places where 
 loaded travellers may rest their burdens: and likewise to dis- 
 play inscriptions in the Malabar language, recording the 
 names and specifying the donations of persons who have con- 
 tributed to the support of those religious and charitable insti- 
 tutions. 
 
 About half-way to Pombon we entered the courts of a very 
 elegant small temple. It is built on the same general plan 
 with the large pagoda, having two massy towers raised in the 
 centre of the oblong area, and a covered walk, with three rows 
 of pillars on each side all round, but no galleries in the form 
 of a cross. The outside of the towers is completely covered 
 with statues in miniature, representing all the variety of their 
 imaginary divinities. The palanquin bearers ascended the steps 
 
20 
 
 JOURNEY TO RAMISSERAM. 
 
 leading to the door of the foremost turret, through which the 
 object of worship was seen indistinctly at a distance. There 
 they joined the palms of their hands, lifted them to their faces, 
 spent a few moments in prayer, and received from the priest in 
 waiting a portion of the consecrated ashes, which, with much 
 seeming satisfaction, they rubbed over different parts of their 
 bodies. My friend and I were presented with areca nuts and 
 betel leaves in a silver vase; and we returned the compliment 
 by an humble offering of a few Ceylon rixdollars. 
 
 Many of the trees on each side of the road are extremely 
 large, and their spreading branches, thickly clothed with leaves, 
 afford an extensive shade. The trunks of some of the tamarind, 
 and others of the religious fig, measured upwards of twenty 
 feet in circumference: all of them, except the acacia formerly 
 mentioned, have evidently been planted; and a regular suc- 
 cession is carefully continued. When a tree is cut down, or 
 falls into decay, another is planted in its room. Many young 
 trees appeared in the avenue, just emerging into existence, 
 and well fortified, with hurdles of thorns, against the browsing 
 of cattle, or other similar injuries. 
 
 Mango leaves were hung on strings across the streets from 
 opposite trees attached to almost every house in the town of 
 Ramisseram, and in the villages between it and Pombon. These 
 are put up at certain festivals, in honour of gods carried on the 
 swamy coaches in pompous procession through the streets. 
 
 At Pombon are thick groves of cocoa-nut trees, interspersed 
 with a small number of the acacia, and ficus religiosa. This 
 
JOURNEY TO RAMISSERAM. 
 
 21 
 
 place is situated close to the sea-beach, and commands a view 
 of Tonitorra, a part of the coast of Coromandel, bearing west 
 half a point north, where we descry a large choultry, and a 
 thick plantation of cocoa-nut trees. Here is a redoubt of ge- 
 nuine Indian structure, having three semilunar bastions front- 
 ing the sea, and two square turrets behind. The door of it is 
 small, secured by a padlock of a curious construction. This 
 fort is not occupied by any military force, and seems to be at 
 present both useless and neglected, owing to the peaceful state 
 of the country. 
 
 The choultry at Pombon has two fronts, contains three in- 
 closed squares, surrounded by piazzas raised several feet from 
 the ground, and built like the others, with square pillars and 
 terraced roofs. Contiguous to it likewise stands a small pa- 
 goda, the door of which is open, and displays Ganesa with a 
 large pot-belly, having the head of an elephant, and the body 
 of a man, and garlands of flowers hung round his neck. 
 
 Part of the stones, which compose the buildings and paved 
 way on Ramisseram, have been imported from the coast of 
 Coromandel; but there are likewise quarries on the island. 
 The stone appears to be a species of granite, although not 
 remarkably hard, as, in some old choultries, the square pillars 
 are so much decayed, that they appear as if they had originally 
 been round. The pillars in the common choultries are each 
 one single stone seven feet high, exclusive of the base and capi- 
 tal. They are cut into squares and octagons, or divisions of 
 four and eight sides, alternately succeeding one another; and 
 
22 
 
 JOURNEY TO RAMISSERAM. 
 
 all the compartments are ornamented with carvings of birds, 
 flowers, and other devices. 
 
 On our arrival at Pombon we were entertained with the 
 exhibition of a set of little dancing girls about ten years of age, 
 who tumbled over head and heels with great agility, being- 
 furnished with long silk drawers, under their flowing mantles. 
 
 A party of men, in women’s dress, came likewise to the 
 choultry, offering to dance before us; but having already seen 
 the female performers, we declined being spectators of their 
 clumsy imitations. 
 
 A woman came up to us, wishing to shew the common 
 tricks of Indian jugglers, keeping three brass hollow globes in 
 a circular motion as she advanced ; but having been spectators 
 of such shews on former occasions, our curiosity was not at this 
 time particularly awakened. 
 
 A vast number of persons of the above description, as well 
 as strolling beggars, resort to this place from almost every na- 
 tion in India. A stranger, who has money in his pocket, can- 
 not easily resist their importunities; and a tolerable subsistence 
 is thus afforded them by the liberality of travellers. 
 
 The men here are stout, and the women comely. The bet- 
 ter sort of the latter appear very clean, and dress with great 
 neatness. We saw a few of them only by accident, for they 
 shun the eyes of travellers with as much care as possible. 
 
 The common dress of' the brahmins is nothing more than a 
 piece of muslin folded about the middle, and a string of nine 
 threads thrown round the neck, hanging dovm to the navel. 
 
JOURNEY TO RAMISSERAM; 
 
 23 
 
 Their heads are shaved bare, and, in general, uncovered : but 
 some of them occasionally put on turbans and jackets. 
 
 Black cattle abound on this little island, and appear in 
 groups lying in the streets. None of them are ever killed: 
 and they furnish the inhabitants with the greatest luxury of 
 their food, which is confined entirely to milk, and the produc- 
 tions of the vegetable world. 
 
 At ten o'clock A. M. on the 17th we left Pombon, and- 
 reached the choultry beyond the great pagoda of Ramisseram 
 at noon. The aumildar, or native collector, whom we met at 
 Pombon, accompanied us, on horseback, the first three miles, 
 to a large and splendid choultry on the road side, the various 
 apartments of which we visited. The floor of it, like that of all 
 the others, is raised several steps from the ground. It contains 
 nearly three hundred highly finished pillars, many of which are 
 round, ornamented with carving, and gaudy painting, and 
 -crowned with shewy capitals. The style of building on this 
 island is purely Indian, and does not correspond with any 
 order of architecture with which we are acquainted. The 
 erecting of this choultry is said to have cost only thirty thou- 
 sand rupees, an extremely moderate sum for so great a display 
 of workmanship. It might afford comfortable accommodation 
 as barracks for one thousand soldiers, but, in this peaceful 
 country of Rama, no military establishment is required. Dur- 
 ing the time we remained in the island the only living emblem 
 of war to be seen was one Madras sepoy, who had gone thither 
 on a visit to his friends. The Mahometan invaders, however, 
 
24 
 
 JOURNEY TO RAMISSERAM. 
 
 in remote ages, extended their desolations even to this religions 
 asylum ; but it has long ago recovered from their ravages, and 
 no traces of their fury arc now perceptible. The annual ex- 
 pence of the above-mentioned choultry, which amounts to seven 
 thousand rupees, is defrayed from revenues in the district of 
 Ramnad, on the coast of Coromandel. In one of the courts 
 belonging to this choultry stands a large spreading tree, called 
 in the Malabar language Ilupai. Its leaves are plain, a little 
 resembling those of the banyan, or Indian fig; its fruit pro- 
 duces oil fit for burning in lamps, and its blossoms, when fried, 
 are esteemed by the natives as a delicate article of food : they 
 are gathered in November, at which time their colour is white, 
 but afterwards, when withered, it becomes red. 
 
 This day, while I was attempting to take a drawing of one 
 of the pillars within the pagoda, the pandaram, or primate, 
 attended by a crowd of brahmins, came up, from the end of 
 one of the long galleries, to honour us with his compliments. 
 He "was dressed in a fine cotton garment, of a deep orange 
 colour, thrown across one shoulder, in pure Indian simplicity. 
 A load of small red and brown beads was coiled upon his head ; 
 large brown beads were formed into rings about his neck and 
 arms ; his forehead, chest, and arms, were each marked with 
 three horizontal white chalky strokes, and some round spots 
 put on with the same materials. He is only sixteen j^ears 
 old ; extremely corpulent, with breasts full and prominent, 
 bright eyes, and pure white teeth. His appearance denoted 
 high rank or noble birth, but his mental attainments were not 
 
JOURNEY TO RAMISSERAM. 
 
 25 
 
 conspicuous, and he seemed to feel as awkward in our company 
 as we did in his. A distant sketch of the pagoda was shewn 
 to him by one of his attendants, who pointed out a large boat 
 in it, as the object most calculated to please his fancy. On 
 his approach he saluted us in the usual manner, raising his right 
 hand to his forehead, and presented each of us with two pome- 
 granates, which he lifted from a silver salver carried by one of 
 the servants. His domestics helped us to plantains, flowers, 
 and betel, with the other accompaniments of Indian hospita- 
 lity. A piece of white calico was spread on the steps of one of 
 the galleries, on which he sat down, and requested Dr. Christie 
 to place himself by his side. 
 
 The pandaram, who is invested with the government of the 
 temple, is not a brahmin, and is denied admittance into the 
 sanctum sanctorum. He is obliged to take a vow of celibacy, 
 and the same restriction is imposed on all the males of the fa- 
 mily to which he belongs. The eldest son of his eldest sister 
 becomes his successor ; and, failing him, the honours descend 
 to the next akin in the female line. 
 
 This pandaram, prompted by some of the people around 
 him, complained to us that, for the last two years, duties had 
 been exacted on all goods embarked from Ceylon for the use 
 of the pagoda, such as cocoa-nut oil, fruit, and millet: and 
 entreated that we should represent the circumstance to the 
 governor, and request his excellency to allow these things in 
 future to be exported free. He mentioned, at the same time, 
 that no duties were charged on any articles brought from the 
 
 VOL. II. 
 
 E 
 
26 
 
 JOURNEY TO RAMISSERAM. 
 
 territories dependent on the English East India Company; but 
 we learned afterwards, that for this privilege the temple pays to 
 the Company a yearly tribute of five thousand rupees. 
 
 The pagoda draws extensive revenues from lands appro- 
 priated for its support on the coast of Coromandel. The island 
 enjoys the protection of the Company, and only pays in return 
 a duty of one and a half per cent, on exports and imports. 
 All the other branches of revenue connected with Ramisseram 
 are consigned to the Chiddupattoornaruwa, a Malabar princess, 
 who takes her title from the most southerly point of this little 
 isle. The company lately restored this privilege to her, after 
 having kept it in their own hands for seven years. She lives 
 on the opposite coast, wdiere also she possesses some revenue, 
 and is distinguished by the title of Rani, or queen. 
 
 At nine o’clock in the evening of Friday the 17th we en- 
 tered the second porch in the east end of the pagoda, and saw 
 three idols carried on the shoulders of brahmins round all the 
 galleries. The procession was accompanied by noisy music, 
 and twelve female dancers. They were arrayed in while mus- 
 lin, drawn up six and six opposite to one another before the 
 largest image, changed sides briskly in the style of an English 
 country dance, and displayed much grace and elegance in 
 their performance. The lights were chiefly flambeaux affixed 
 to instruments of iron, some of which had three, and others 
 seven fangs, apparently prepared with symbolical allusion. 
 The shew of imagery, however, was but a miserable spectacle, 
 when compared to the splendour of the temple: and it seems 
 
JOURNEY TO RAMISSERAM. 
 
 .27 
 
 remarkable that the inventive faculties of the brahmins have 
 not contrived some ceremonials, which might more powerfully 
 dazzle the senses of their ignorant votaries. 
 
 Early in the morning of the 18 th we visited a very elegant 
 pagoda on a smaller scale, two miles north of the principal 
 temple. It is situate on the top of a little mount, the highest 
 ground on Ramisseram, raised two stories, and decorated with 
 several flights of stairs on the outside. We ascended to its 
 summit, and enjoyed a complete view of all the isle, with the 
 sea in every direction round it. Being almost entirely covered 
 with shrubs, it looks verdant and beautiful, but displays not 
 the smallest vestige of a corn-field, nor any other appearance 
 of culture, except the large trees, which shade the roads, and 
 a few groves of cocoas. Some sand hills are scattered over its 
 centre, and around the lower parts of the coasts some small 
 lakes appear. The soil, in general, is a bed of sand similar to 
 that of Manaar, and it does not appear to exceed twenty miles 
 in circumference. This temple would make a more picturesque 
 drawing than the larger building, but, our time being limited, 
 I had not an opportunity of attempting to sketch it. Part of 
 the road leading to it was paved with flat stones, and shaded 
 by large trees, in a style corresponding with the avenue for- 
 merly mentioned. Where those latter did not appear, young 
 trees were regularly planted on each side, and protected by 
 fences of thorns. We returned to breakfast at our choultry, 
 and took our final departure from it at half pnst eight o’clock 
 A. M. with a grateful sense of the hospitality which we expe- 
 
28 
 
 JOURNEY TO RAMISSERAM. 
 
 rienced on this singular spot. The native servants of the Com- 
 pany behaved to us with great attention, supplying all our 
 wants with willing expedition, and accompanying us, with a 
 desire of being useful, whenever w'e went abroad. 
 
 The dwelling-houses on Ramisseram are far superior to the 
 common habitations of Indians. The inhabitants follow the 
 customs of their fathers, and perform the rites of their religion 
 in undisturbed tranquillity. The costly buildings dedicated to 
 the celebration of divine worship, and the accommodation of 
 strangers, must have been the work of ages. The accumula- 
 tion of gold, sufficient to rear those fabricks, can only be ac- 
 counted for by the contributions of myriads of pilgrims, and 
 the richer donations of dying princes, who considered it as an 
 act of atoning virtue to appropriate part of their possessions to 
 such pious purposes. 
 
 The magnificence of those structures forms a striking con- 
 trast to the lowly cottages on the shores of Manaar. The op- 
 posite sensations occasioned by a view of each island are still 
 strongly remembered. Manaar, indigent and dejected, chills 
 the soul with scenes of penury, and forbidding sterility. Ra- 
 misseram, rich, fruitful, and luxuriant, warms the heart with 
 a displa} r of liberty and plenty, and kindles in our bosoms a 
 lively flame of gratitude and pleasure. 
 
 The small relics of antiquity still extant in Ceylon suf- 
 ficiently prove, that similar religious institutions did once exist 
 there, and that choultries and temples were erected at the dif- 
 ferent stages all the way from Manaar to Dondera, the southern 
 
JOURNEY TO RAMISSERAM. 
 
 29 
 
 extremity of the island, and the ultimate extent of the Hindoos' 
 pilgrimage. At this place the ruins of a pagoda, dedicated to 
 Shiva, are even now distinctly recognized ; but only some rows 
 of scattered pillars, and a few remnants of broken images, 
 have survived the fanatic fury of the first European invaders, 
 llama's peaceful island, falling under the protection of a more 
 liberal and enlightened government, fortunately escaped those 
 tempests, which spread destruction around the coasts of Cey- 
 lon. 
 
 A bed of sand thrown up by the ocean, exhibiting such a 
 degree of splendour, was a sight as novel as it was unexpected. 
 The highly-finished temples, the majestic tree§, the extensive 
 pavements, and the comforts contrived for travellers, rendered 
 this journey one of the most singular and interesting, which it 
 has been our lot to perform. 
 
 On setting out from Ramisseram we went seven miles along 
 the projecting beach in our palanquins, and then embarked on 
 board the same vessel which conveyed us over. Another small 
 pagoda stands on the extremity of this point, which, being the 
 most distant from the peninsula of India, is considered by pil- 
 grims as the most sacred place for performing their ablutions, 
 and the most efficacious for washing away their sins. Nothing 
 is to be seen near it but the sandy shore and the resounding 
 main. At a little distance, on the same low bank, a few fish- 
 ermen’s huts appear, but there is not a single tree, nor even 
 one blade of grass, to allay the fervid heat of an almost vertical 
 
 sun. 
 
so 
 
 JOURNEY TO EAMISSERAM. 
 
 The reef of sand, stretching across the gulph of Manaar, is 
 known to Europeans by the name of Rama’s, or, more com- 
 monly, Adam’s Bridge. A long spit of land runs out from Ra- 
 misseram, succeeded by several low islands; and spray raised 
 by the sea, striking on shoals under water, completes the 
 chain to a considerable extent. Sand-banks and coral rocks 
 project in the same line from Talmanaar; and over some of 
 the latter, the breakers mount very high: but for the space of 
 ten miles in the centre of the gulph, between those two pro- 
 jections, although the water be shallow, no appearance of land 
 nor of breakers is perceptible. 
 
 About half past five o’clock P. M. we were within six miles 
 of Talmanaar, but, as the wind blew fresh against us off the 
 land, we anchored, and lowered our mast, then got under 
 weigh, pushing the vessel forward with long poles, and, after 
 two hours of laborious exertion, reached the shore. For- 
 tunately one bottle of brandy remained of our store, which, 
 being distributed amongst the naked tars, added a pleasant 
 animation to their work. The sailors landed to prepare their 
 supper on the sea-beach, and prosecuted their voyage to Ma- 
 naar next morning. We, with twenty-eight attendants, twenty- 
 six of whom were palanquin bearers, and two private servants, 
 the smallest number with which it is possible to travel under 
 cover, walked about a quarter of a mile from the shore to a 
 poor Roman catholic chapel, and lodged during the night 
 within its court. It is situate in the centre of a thick grove 
 of palmyras, the greater part of which are entwined by young 
 
JOURNEY TO RAMISSERAM. 
 
 31 
 
 banyans, having rich foliage, and dropping roots. Many of 
 them wind round the tree like a serpent, and entirely conceal 
 the lower part of the stem. As they do not spring from the 
 ground, they may have attained their position from the cir- 
 cumstance of birds cleaning their bills on the trunks, or from 
 their resting there after feeding on the figs, the diminutive 
 seeds of which, being surrounded with a viscous substance, 
 naturally adhere in a certain portion to the beaks that eat 
 them. The fruit of this palm being of the flavour and con- 
 sistence of a date, and easily penetrated, naturally attracts the 
 feathered tribe to the tree which produces it. 
 
 At half past nine o’clock A. M. on the 19th, we set out 
 from Talmanaar by land, and at a quarter past eleven went 
 through the village of Pessal. It is chiefly inhabited by fisher- 
 men, and ornamented with a neat Portuguese chapel, where a 
 large congregation was assembled. This place of worship con- 
 tains no seats nor pews of any kind : all the persons in it were 
 kneeling on the matted floor, the women in the front ranks, the 
 men in the rear, looking towards an illuminated altar of no 
 mean appearance: a young female decently arrayed was ad- 
 vancing on her knees towards it from the west door, carrying 
 a lighted taper in each hand, and an elderly woman followed 
 her in the same manner, with an infant in her arms. This 
 ceremony had the appearance of a penance, the cause of which 
 was obvious; and we did not presume to disturb persons so- 
 lemnly employed by an unseasonable enquiry.. 
 
 The Roman Catholic Christians in this island, although 
 
32 
 
 MANAAR. 
 
 their ignorance is no less deplorable than that of the most be 
 nigh ted Pagans, are completely subjugated to the dominion of 
 their spiritual fathers: firmly attached to their mode of wor- 
 ship, and unaccustomed to think of any other, they follow the 
 present form with the same contentment as if it had been the 
 ancient religion of their country. The greater part of the in- 
 habitants of Manaar belong to that church; and, as the transi- 
 tion is sudden, so the contrast displayed in their persons to 
 those of the Ramisserams is no less striking than the different 
 appearances of the countries which they occupy; the former 
 shewing only their pure naked skin, and the latter exhibiting 
 their bodies covered with paint and white ashes, tastefully 
 arranged in a variety of ornaments. 
 
 Close to the chapel of Pessal stands a wide spreading ban- 
 yan tree, the trunk of which encloses that of a borassus; like- 
 wise adjoining to it are several large tamarind trees, and a 
 grove of palmyras, interspersed with a small number of cocoas. 
 We had the sea on our left hand, and travelled close to the 
 shore, where great part of the sand is of a strong shining black. 
 A large herd of buffaloes was grazing on the road side, not 
 one of which species of cattle is to be seen on Ramisseram. A 
 plantation of palmyras stretches for the first quarter of a mile 
 in a direction parallel to the sea-beach. After travelling six 
 miles, groves of palmyras again appear, intermixed with cocoas. 
 The rest of the way presented nothing but sand-hills, and thick 
 jungle, in which appeared abundance of the umbrella acacia, 
 and pandams odoratissimus, a wild tree, the leaves and fruit of 
 
MAN A A II. 
 
 33 
 
 which resemble those of the pine-apple. Flocks of sea gulls 
 and sand larks sported amidst the spray. 
 
 Ten minutes before one o'clock P. M. we arrived at Car- 
 selles, eleven miles distant from Talmanaar. Here is a large 
 cotton plantation, which was lately established under the pro- 
 tection of the British government; but the design not being 
 approved in England, and the first produce not defraying the 
 expence of culture, it is probable that the ground will soon be 
 abandoned. About one hundred acres are cleared, enclosed, 
 
 I 
 
 and planted. The cotton shrubs growing there consist of two 
 kinds of different sizes, which have already been described. 
 
 At this place a Portuguese church, one hundred and thirty- 
 four feet long by twenty-seven feet broad, has been converted 
 into a storehouse to receive the produce of the adjoining fields; 
 and the decayed parsonage-house has been fitted up as a com- 
 fortable residence for the superin tendant of the plantations. 
 
 At the distance of two miles from this place, in an open 
 plain, stands a solitary round tower, narrower at the base than 
 at the summit. A staircase leads to the top of it, which com- 
 mands a view of the whole island. It bears not the smallest 
 resemblance to any building on Ramisseram. Some say it 
 was built by Mahometan conquerors; others say that it was 
 erected by the Portuguese as an observatory or watch-tower, 
 for noticing the approach of vessels, and guarding against in- 
 vasion. 
 
 Near to Carselles are several large trees, said to belong to 
 the species of Adansonia digitata, Ethiopian sourgourd, or 
 
 VOL. II.. F 
 
34 
 
 MAN A A It. 
 
 monkies' bread. Some of the trunks measured nearly forty 
 feet in circumference. The fruit is of a tough hard consistence, 
 in form nearly resembling a cucumber, having its outer coat 
 soft and hairy, like woollen cloth, and containing a consi- 
 derable number of round seeds or kernels. The leaves, not 
 unlike those of the real bread fruit, are strongly gashed, re- 
 sembling a hand spread out, with divided fingers. Young 
 banyan trees are springing here spontaneously out of many of 
 the planted hedges, a circumstance which corroborates the opi- 
 nion that birds are the medium through which the seeds are 
 sown. On this island likewise are many of the trees resem- 
 bling the tamarind, called in the Malabar language Weel, and 
 in the Cingalese, Suria Marra. 
 
 The similarity of the indigenous productions of Ceylon, 
 Manaar, Ramisseram, and the part of the coast of Coroman- 
 del directly opposite, strengthens the probability, arising from 
 other circumstances, that they were all originally one country, 
 and afterwards separated, by the effect of natural causes, at a 
 period to which history does not extend. 
 
 We left Carselles at half past five o'clock P. M. and arrived 
 in the house of the commandant of Manaar at seven. The next 
 morning at ten A. M. we bade adieu to that isle; took forty- 
 five minutes to reach the opposite shore; and after travelling 
 nearly one hour, halted at the Portuguese church of Bengaly, 
 to refresh our bearers under the shade of a banyan tree covered 
 with ripe figs. We tasted them, but they possess little sweet- 
 ness, and Indians never think of eating them. The only ob- 
 
MANAAR. 
 
 35 
 
 jects which our people had in view by stopping were to enjoy 
 a mouthful of water, and a temporary shelter from the sun. 
 At a quarter past twelve we resumed our journey; at twenty 
 minutes past one P. M. passed a small village surrounded with 
 stacks of corn and herds of cattle; and at half past two P. M. 
 we were set down wdthin the precincts of the governor’s house 
 at Aripo. 
 
CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 PEARL FISHERY — COUNTRY ABOUT ARIPO — THE GOVERNORS HOUSE 
 
 CONDAATCHY — EXAMINATION OF THE PEARL BANKS — PEARL 
 
 OYSTER COMMENCEMENT OF THE FISHERY — MODE OF DIVING — 
 
 WASHING OF THE OYSTERS — SIFTING, SORTING, AND DRILLING OF 
 
 THE PEARLS — SPECULATIONS NATURE OF THE PEARL REVIEW 
 
 OF FORMER AND LATER FISHERIES JUGGLERS — FEMALE TUM- 
 
 BLER-CONJURORS. 
 
 From the traces of former culture every where displayed 
 around Condaatchy, there can be no doubt that the lands 
 were once in a state of high cultivation, and that the district 
 was well peopled. The ruins of a large tank or reservoir, 
 capable of watering ground sufficient to produce one hundred 
 thousand parrahs of pad dee, afford one proof of its former 
 prosperity. It might be highly beneficial to the interest of the 
 pearl fishery, if settlers were again encouraged to reside there; 
 and it ought especially to be rendered the head-quarters of the 
 pilots, divers, and other persons necessary to be employed in 
 conducting the concern. 
 
 The depopulation of this district has been ascribed to the 
 ravages of the small pox ; but it probably first suffered from 
 the invasions of Mahometan conquerors, who, after destroying 
 the pagodas on Ramisseram, extended their desolating arms to 
 Manaar, and the circumjacent territories. The country of 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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PEARL FISHERY. 
 
 37 
 
 Rama lias recovered its ancient splendour; but the coasts of 
 Ceylon have been laid waste by a second race of invaders. To 
 the fury and fanaticism with which the Portuguese pulled down 
 every monument of the Hindoo religion, and the cruelty with 
 which they persecuted those who professed it, may, in a great 
 measure, be ascribed the still conspicuous barrenness of this 
 part of the coast. It is likewise subject to seasons of extraor- 
 dinary sickness; and is moreover liable to summers of great 
 drought, so that it can never be rendered fertile, without the 
 construction of capacious tanks for preserving water to over- 
 flow the fields, and prevent a failure of the crops. 
 
 The governors house at Aripo, on the western coast of Cey- 
 lon, is situate two miles north of the scene of the pearl fishery, 
 in 8° 4 > 7 ' north latitude, and 79° 40' east longitude. It is un- 
 doubtedly the most beautiful building in the island, and almost 
 the only one which is planned according to any order of archi- 
 tecture. The design is purely Doric, and was given by the 
 Honourable Frederic North himself: but the house, although 
 of a splendid appearance, is of small dimensions; the internal 
 accommodations not entirely corresponding with the grandeur 
 and elegance of the outward structure; but completely answer- 
 ing all the purposes for which they were intended. There are 
 four small bed-rooms on the ground floor, one at each corner; 
 a spacious flight of stone stairs occupies the centre ; and two 
 well proportioned rooms above extend from east to west of 
 the building, ornamented on each side by graceful colonnades. 
 One of these is used as a dining-room, and calculated to con- 
 
38 
 
 PEARL FISHERY. 
 
 tain a party of twenty persons. The other is his excellency's 
 bedchamber. At one end of it a winding staircase is cut off, 
 leading up to the terraced roof, from which there is a most 
 extensive prospect of the level country in three directions, and 
 in the fourth of the open sea, and a fine view of the line of 
 boats, when they are returning from the banks of oysters. 
 The house is pleasantly situate on an elevated bank, about 
 a stone's cast from the sea; and the apartments are delight- 
 fully cool, being completely surrounded by Venetian doors, 
 or windows reaching to the floor, and constantly fanned by a 
 regular succession of land and sea breezes. Near it several 
 sets of temporary rooms are constructed of wooden pillars and 
 palmyra leaves, affording accommodation for persons whom 
 the Doric building cannot contain. 
 
 The adjacent country to a considerable extent is flat, sandy, 
 and barren, presenting nothing to the eye but low brushwood, 
 chiefly of thorns and prickly pears, amongst which is the plant 
 which nourishes the cochineal, and here and there some little 
 hamlets, and a small number of palmyra and cocoa-nut trees. 
 But Condaachty (three miles distant), where in general nothing 
 is to be seen but a few miserable huts, and a sandy desart, dur- 
 ing the period of the pearl fishery, branches out into a populous 
 town, several streets of which extend each upwards of a mile 
 in length. The scene altogether resembles a crowded 1 fair on 
 the grandest scale. The people most active in erecting huts, 
 and speculating in the various branches of merchandize, are 
 the Lubbies, or Mahometans, natives of Ceylon, and other 
 
PEARL FISHERY. 
 
 39 
 
 descriptions of Moors, and Hindoos from the opposite coast of 
 the continent. The houses, being only intended as a shelter 
 from the sun and rain, are easily constructed. A building for 
 the purpose of warmth is far from being necessary in that cli- 
 mate; and at that season a shower rarely falls. When the land 
 and sea breezes do not prevail with their usual strength, the air 
 is rendered extremely sultry by the reflection of the sun’s rays 
 from the surrounding sand. 
 
 None of the Cingalese are divers, and scarcely any of them 
 engage in the other active parts of the fishery, which circum- 
 stance may be accounted for from the natural timidity of their 
 dispositions. A large body of them however resort from Ne- 
 gombo to Aripo in the common fishing boats, and profit con- 
 siderably by supplying the market with fish, which abound 
 as well here, as on every other part of the coast of Ceylon. 
 
 About the end of October, in the year preceding a pearl 
 fishery, when a short interval of fine weather prevails, between 
 the breaking up of the south west and the setting in of the north 
 east monsoons, an examination of the banks takes place. In 
 this service nine boats are employed, in each of which is one 
 pilot, or arripanaar, two divers, and about eight sailors. The 
 English superintendant, or inspector of the banks, takes his 
 station in the boat of the head arripanaar, who has exercised 
 this profession from his infancy, and received it, like almost 
 all occupations in India, in hereditary succession from his 
 father. These boats repair in a body to each bank, and hav- 
 ing, by frequent diving, ascertained its situation, they take from 
 
40 
 
 PEARL FISHERY. 
 
 it one or two thousand oysters as a specimen. Persons con- 
 versant in this business are able to tell, from external appear- 
 ance, whether the oysters are of a proper age to yield the usual 
 quantity of pearls. But in order to ascertain their produce 
 with certainty, the oysters are opened, the pearls carefully col- 
 lected, sorted, and valued. If the produce of one thousand 
 oysters be worth three pounds sterling, a good fishery 'may be 
 expected : for the examination of one or two thousand oysters 
 of a particular bank and crop is sufficient to afford a correct 
 idea of the produce of all the others on that spot. In going 
 over the pearl banks oysters are found coming forward 'in dif- 
 ferent crops, from the age of one year to that of seven, the 
 period of their maturity. An oyster of the former class is not 
 larger than the nail of a man’s thumb, but one of the latter is 
 nearly as large as the palm of the hand. At the age of from 
 four to five years the tool or small seed pearls only are found 
 in the oyster; after that period they rapidly increase in size, 
 until the oyster arrives at maturity, in which state it remains 
 but a short time, and then sickens and dies. The result of the 
 inspection is published in such a manner as to enable persons 
 intending to speculate in the concern to judge of the probabi- 
 lity of success. 
 
 Sometimes government fishes the banks entirely at its own 
 risk: sometimes the boats are let to many speculators: but, 
 most frequently, the right of fishing is sold to one individual, 
 who sub-rents boats to others. 
 
 The banks or beds of oysters are scattered over a space in 
 
PEARL FISHERY. 
 
 41 
 
 the bottom of the gulph of Manaar, extending about thirty 
 miles from north to south, and twenty-four from east to west. 
 There are fourteen beds, but they are not all productive, and 
 not more than two or three can now be marked out for fishing 
 in one season. The largest is ten* miles in length, and two miles 
 in breadth; the others are much smaller. These beds are not 
 raised above the surrounding bottom of the sea farther than 
 what is occasioned by the quantity of oysters; and the coral 
 rocks, Avhicli produce the most valuable oysters, are sunk on a 
 level with the sand. 
 
 The depth of water over the different banks varies from 
 three to fifteen fathoms ; but the best fishing is found in from 
 six to eight fathoms. 
 
 When it has been determined that a pearl fishery shall take 
 place, an advertisement is published, in the English and Ma- 
 labar languages, inviting , all divers, and owners of boats fit 
 for the employment, to repair to the bay of Condaatchy on the 
 20th of February, about which time the operations ought to 
 commence. 
 
 The boats with their crews and divers come from Manaar, 
 Jaffna, Ramisseram, Nagore, Tutakoreen, Travancore, Kil- 
 kerry, and other parts on the coast of Coromandel. They 
 arrive completely equipped, and furnished with every thing 
 necessary to conduct the business of the fishing. They are 
 open boats of one ton burden, about forty-five feet in length, 
 from seven to eight in breadth, three feet deep, have but one 
 mast and one sail, and, unless when heavily laden, do not draw 
 more than eight or ten inches water. The crew generally con- 
 
 VOL. II. 
 
 G 
 
42 
 
 PEARL FISHERY. 
 
 sists of twenty-three persons, ten of whom are divers, ten mun- 
 ducs, whose business it is to haul up the divers, the stones, and 
 baskets, one tindal or pilot, one steersman, a boy to bale out 
 water, and a man to take care of the boat. To these is added 
 a peon on the part of the rente*, to guard against fraud. Each 
 boat is supplied with five diving stones, and five netted baskets. 
 
 A few days previous to the beginning of the fishery a second 
 examination of the banks takes place, for the purpose of mark- 
 ing out with buoys the situation of the beds of oysters, and the 
 places where they are to be found in greatest quantities. In 
 the first place, a small sloop is anchored in the centre of the 
 banks, and remains there during the fishery as a guide to the 
 boats, and a guard to the buo} T s. The pilot boats sail round 
 this vessel in a circle of twelve or fifteen miles, sounding and 
 diving all the way; and whenever they find a spot rich in 
 oysters, they place a buoy over it. The buoys are rafts of 
 wood of a triangular shape, having flags of different colours 
 raised upon them, and are fixed to the place by a cable and 
 wooden anchor, with two large stones attached to it. Draw- 
 ings of the flags are inserLed in a book, and a particular de- 
 scription is given of the quality, age, and denomination of 
 the oysters found where they are laid. The pearl banks are 
 situate about fifteen miles, or three hours sailing, from the 
 shore of Condaatchy. The hill called Coodaramaly Point, ap- 
 pearing like an island, is the only land to be seen from them; 
 and it is at so great a distance, and so little elevated, that its 
 bearings from the different banks cannot be ascertained with 
 
PEARL FISHERY. 
 
 43 
 
 sufficient accuracy to supersede the labour of the pilots and the 
 divers: it therefore costs them several days before they can de- 
 termine the positions of the banks, and the places where the 
 greatest number of oysters are to be found. The buoys are not 
 allowed to continue permanent, as they would either require a 
 vessel constantly to guard them, or, if not watched, w ould leave 
 the beds exposed to the ravages of pirates. 
 
 The pearl oysters in these banks are all of one species, and 
 of the same regular form, but of different qualities and deno- 
 minations, from the nature of the ground to which they are 
 attached, and the appearance of curious zoophytes which ad- 
 here to the outside of the shells. The shape of the oyster is an 
 imperfect oval, pretty nearly the same as that of a cockle, about 
 nine inches and a half in circumference, with a segment cut off 
 by a straight line at the hinge or point of union of the valves. 
 The body of the animal is white, fleshy, and glutinous. The 
 inside of the shell is brighter and more beautiful than the pearl 
 itself: the outside is smooth, unless when covered with corals, 
 sponges, and other marine productions. 
 
 On one bank the oysters are found with a zoophyte upon 
 the outside of one of the shells, apparently of the class of 
 sponges: it grows in general in the form of a cup or wine-fun- 
 nel; sometimes one edge turns in, and winds round in a spiral 
 form. It completely shades the oyster, and is called by the 
 natives coda, from its resemblance to a spread-out talipot leaf, 
 which is the common umbrella of Ceylon. The oysters of an- 
 other bed are rather of a smaller size, and have a red substance 
 
44 
 
 PEARL FISHERY, 
 
 • 
 
 on them, which resembles the spittle which follows the chewing 
 ol the betel-leaf, and has given them the name of codapakka- 
 chippy, or betel oyster. These two classes are considered as 
 producing the most beautiful and most valuable pearls. Many 
 of them are quite plain, and unincumbered with exterior loads: 
 others have trees of coral on them, five times their own weight: 
 others sponges of tubular and branching forms, full of small 
 holes. A large cluster of young oysters is often brought up, 
 with one old one in the midst of them. They are attached 
 firmly to the rocks, or to one another, by a bunch of hair; and 
 are sometimes swept about by the waves, in chains or clusters, 
 adhering to one another, or to pieces of rock. It is certain, 
 however, they have a locomotive power; this is determined by 
 the microscope: a number of young oysters, which, when taken 
 from the parent oyster, had the appearance of small sand, were 
 placed on the receiving-glass, and were seen to stretch out what 
 is commonly denominated the beard, and to draw themselves 
 along by it, with almost incredible ease and rapidity. 
 
 The apparent quantity of oysters on the banks varies con- 
 siderably at different seasons. Sometimes the waves at one 
 monsoon bury immense colonies of them in the sand; and those 
 of the other, acting in a contrary direction, bring them again 
 to view. 
 
 The pearls are most commonly contained in the thickest 
 and most fleshy part of the oyster, contiguous to one of the 
 angles of the shell close to the hinge. An oyster, in general, 
 contains several pearls: one has been known to produce a 
 
PEARL FISHERY. 
 
 45 
 
 hundred and fifty, including the seed or dust pearls ; and one 
 hundred oysters have been opened without yielding one pearl 
 large enough to be discernible, while the substance of the ani- 
 mal remained un decayed. 
 
 The pearl oyster is said to attain its maturity at the age of 
 seven or eight years; after which its existence soon termi- 
 nates, and its contents are washed away by the waves. The 
 uncertainty which prevails in ascertaining the exact situation 
 of the different banks, and recollecting the spots Avhich have 
 been fished at different periods, must occasionally lead to errors 
 in the conduct of this concern. In March 1804 the fleet of 
 boats accidentally discovered on a bed clothed with oysters, 
 the greater part of which were dead, and useless. A diver put 
 into his basket at one dip one hundred and fifty; but of these 
 not more than ten were found alive, the rest being empty shells. 
 Either by negligence or mistake this bank must have been al 
 lowed to pass the season of its maturity. The fishery in general 
 having been indifferent, the divers at first thought that they had 
 met with an instance of extraordinary good fortune, and were 
 much grieved when they found themselves disappointed. 
 
 If the short existence attributed to the pearl oyster be well 
 founded, the Dutch lost the benefit of three entire generations; 
 their last fishery having taken place in 1768, and the first of the 
 English in 1796. 
 
 The pearl oysters are of so delicate a nature, that it has 
 been found impossible to transplant them alive from one place 
 to another. Mr. North tried several experiments of this kind; 
 
46 
 
 PEARL FISHERY. 
 
 but it is not probable that any of them will prove successful. 
 Were planting colonies of them practicable, it would open a 
 rich field both for speculation and increase of revenue. 
 
 As the boats arrive at Condaatchy to be employed in the 
 fishery they are regularly numbered, and their description and 
 the names of their crew are registered in a book. 
 
 The fishery for the season of the year 1804 was let by go- 
 vernment to a native of Jaffnapatam, who had resided for some 
 years previous to it on the coast of Coromandel. For thirty 
 days fishing with one hundred and fifty boats, he came under 
 an obligation to pay three hundred thousand Porto Novo pago- 
 das, or one hundred and twenty thousand pounds sterling. He 
 sold the right of fishing to some of the best equipped boats for 
 three thousand pagodas each,' and that of others for two thou- 
 sand five hundred; but kept by far the greater part of them to 
 fish on his own account. After the commencement of the 
 fishery he could not have sold them for nearly so high a price, 
 as the general expectation was greatly disappointed by the 
 small quantity of oysters which they brought on shore. 
 
 Although it would occasion more labour to the servants of 
 government, it is probable that a greater revenue might be 
 gained by renting the boats individually to a multitude of ad- 
 venturers. By their paying two thirds of the price, according 
 to custom, in advance, and the other third on the expiration of 
 twenty days fishing, there could be no risque of sustaining any 
 loss. 
 
 Mr. North arrived at the government-house at Aripo on the 
 
PEARL FISHERY. 
 
 4 ? 
 
 11 th of February, attended by a small body-guard of cavalry 
 lately raised, having travelled from Columbo in six days. Two 
 hundred soldiers of the 51st regiment, Ceylon native infantry, 
 and Bengal volunteers, with four English officers, and two six- 
 pounders, had reached Condaatchy about a week before, and 
 were stationed there during the fishery. An extensive square 
 of temporary buildings, formed of sticks and palmyra leaves, 
 was erected for their accommodation, and for public offices; 
 and the renter reared a house for himself in one corner of it, of 
 the same perishable materials. He brought a large family with 
 him, and thirteen palanquins, to each of which were attached 
 thirteen bearers well dressed, also a few sepoys with rusty 
 muskets, some of whom constantly attended him, and ran by 
 the side of his palanquin, when he went abroad in that convey- 
 ance. The renter soon went and waited on the governor, and 
 paid him many compliments in the figurative style of his coun- 
 try. He is the only native, belonging to the British territories 
 in the island, who enjoys the privilege of sitting in his excel- 
 lency’s presence. 
 
 A part of the Manaar independent company was posted in 
 the old fortress of Aripo, about a quarter of a mile north of the 
 governor s house. 
 
 The hussars, consisting of twelve Europeans and six natives, 
 were stationed in a temporary barrack close to his excellency’s 
 quarters: and a serjeant’s guard of infantry, furnished from the 
 different details of native troops, relieved each other daily there, 
 for the protection of the governor’s person. 
 
48 
 
 PEARL FISHERY. 
 
 Major Herbert Beaver, of his Majesty’s l.Qth regiment of 
 foot, aide de camp to the governor, commanded all the troops 
 at these stations. 
 
 The Candians never attempted to make any descent in the 
 district of Aripo during the period of the fishery, although they 
 frequently threatened the mud fort of Putlam, at no great dis- 
 tance from it. 
 
 Square palisades were erected close to the sea-shore for the 
 purpose of receiving the oysters, extending in a line, about 
 half a mile in length, parallel to the beach. At this time no 
 other buildings, nor any other appearance of population, were 
 to be seen in the neighbourhood of Condaatchy, besides what 
 have been mentioned : but in a few days the speculators began 
 to assemble, and to erect their huts in regular streets marked 
 out for them. Every man carries with him the materials neces- 
 sary for this purpose, which consist of sticks, mats, pieces of 
 cotton cloth of various colours, rice-straw, cocoa-nut, and pal- 
 myra leaves: and he raises his simple shed almost as easily and 
 as speedily as he could pitch a tent. 
 
 The natives of the different countries in India, which send 
 people to the fishery, were dilatory in repairing to it; and af- 
 forded in this instance an example of that general procrastina- 
 tion, which marks their character in all other concerns. On 
 the 20th of February, the day advertised for the fishery to 
 commence, not one boat appeared. On the 27 th eighty had 
 arrived, and, with that number, fishing began on the 28th. 
 On the third of March the boats were nearly completed to one 
 
PEARL FISHERY. 
 
 49 
 
 hundred and fifty: on the eighth, two hundred and fifty were 
 permitted to fish; and soon after, the number employed was 
 inereased to three hundred. At the same time three hundred 
 other vessels of various descriptions, some fit for the fishery, 
 some employed in commerce, lay at anchor along the shore. 
 
 The beach, extending upwards of three miles, from the bay 
 ' of Condaatchy to the fortress of Aripo, is admirably adapted 
 for the convenient riding of the boats, the water being deep 
 close to a sandy beach, and not agitated by any surf. They 
 drop one anchor, and turn their prows to the sea; their crooked 
 sterns line the shore, and the vessels are securely moored, only 
 a few steps from land, by a rope fastened round a pole. 
 
 As thirty successive days of fine weather are scarcely to be 
 expected, a greater number of boats than that mentioned in the 
 agreement is permitted to fish. The people employed on the 
 part of government keep a regular accoun t of the boats which 
 go to sea every day, so that the contract with the renter may 
 be faithfully fulfilled, and he allowed the amount of one hun- 
 dred and fifty boats fishing for thirty days. If only seventy- 
 five boats went out, their fishing was counted as half a day ; 
 and when three hundred fished, it stood for two days. 
 
 The boat-people are raised from their slumbers by the noise 
 of horns and tom-toms, and the firing of a field-piece, gener- 
 ally before midnight, when the land-wind is favourable. The 
 noise and confusion of collecting and embarking upwards of 
 six thousand people in the darkness of night, may be more 
 easily conceived than described. After going through their 
 
 VOL. II. 
 
 ii 
 
50 
 
 PEARL FISHERY. 
 
 A 
 
 various ablutions and incantations, they set their sail, guided 
 by the pilot boats; and when they have approached the banks, 
 they cast anchor, and wait the dawn of day. With the first 
 appearance of light they again get under weigh, and every 
 boat chooses its own ground, and drops its anchor around the 
 sloop and the different flags. 
 
 About half past six, or seven o’clock, when the rays of the 
 sun begin to emit some degree of warmth, the diving com- 
 mences. A kind of open scaffolding, formed of oars and other 
 pieces of wood, is projected from each side of the boat, and 
 from it the diving-tackle is suspended, three stones on one side 
 and two on the other. The diving-stone hangs from an oar by 
 a light country rope and slip-knot, and descends about five 
 feet into the water. It is a stone of fifty-six pounds weight, of 
 the shape of a sugar-loaf. The rope passes through a hole in 
 the top of the stone, above which a strong loop is formed, re- 
 sembling a stirrup-iron, to receive the foot of the diver. The 
 diver wears no clothes, except a slip of calico about his loins; 
 swimming in the water, he takes hold of the rope, and puts 
 one foot into the loop or stirrup on the top of the stone. He 
 remains in this perpendicular position for a little time, support- 
 ing himself by the motion of one arm. Then a basket, formed 
 of a wooden hoop and net-work, suspended by a rope, is thrown 
 into the water to him, and into it he places his other foot. 
 Both the ropes of the stone and basket he holds for a little 
 while in one hand. When he feels himself properly prepared, 
 and ready to go down, he grasps his nostrils with one hand to 
 
PEARL FISHERY. 
 
 51 
 
 prevent the water from rushing in, with the other gives a sud- 
 den pull to the running-knot suspending the stone, and in- 
 stantly descends : the remainder of the rope fixed to the basket 
 is thrown into the water after him at the same moment: the 
 rope attached to the stone is in such a position as to follow him 
 of itself. As soon as he touches the bottom, he disengages his 
 foot from the stone, which is immediately drawn up, and sus- 
 pended again to the projecting oar, in the same manner as 
 before, to be in readiness for the next diver. The diver, in the 
 bottom of the sea, throws himself as much as possible upon his 
 face, and collects every thing he can get hold of into the basket. 
 When he is ready to ascend, he gives a jerk to the rope, and the 
 munduc, who holds the other end of it, hauls it up as speedily 
 as possible. The diver, at the same time, free of every incum- 
 brance, warps up by the rope, and always gets above water a 
 considerable time before the basket. He presently comes up 
 at a distance from the boat, and swims about, or takes hold of 
 an oar or rope, until his turn comes to descend again : but he 
 seldom comes into the boat until the labour of the day is over. 
 The basket is often extremely heavy, and requires more than 
 one man to haul it up, containing besides oysters, pieces of 
 rock, trees of coral, and other marine productions. 
 
 The manner of diving strikes a spectator as extremely simple 
 and perfect. There is no reason to believe that any addition 
 has been made to the system by Europeans; nor, indeed, does 
 there appear the smallest room for improvement. 
 
 The superstition of the divers renders the shark charmers a 
 
 i 
 
52 
 
 PEARL FISHERY. 
 
 necessary part of the establishment of the pearl fishery. All 
 these impostors belong to one family, and no person, who does 
 not form a branch of it, can aspire to that office. The natives 
 have firm confidence in their power over the monsters of the 
 sea; nor would they descend to the bottom of the deep without 
 knowing that one of those enchanters was present in the fleet. 
 Two of them are constantly employed. One goes out regu- 
 larly in the head pilot's boat. The other performs certain cere- 
 monies on shore. He is stripped naked, and shut up in a room, 
 where no person sees him from the period of the sailing of the 
 boats until their return.- He has before him a brass bason full 
 of water, containing one male and one female fish made of 
 silver. If any accident should happen from a shark at sea, it 
 is believed that one of those fishes is seen to bite the other. 
 The shark-charmer is called in the Malabar language Cadal- 
 cutti, and in the Hindostanee Hybanda, each of which signi- 
 fies a binder of sharks. The divers likewise believe that, if the 
 conjurer should be dissatisfied, he has the power of making the 
 sharks attack them, on which account he is sure of receiving 
 liberal presents from all quarters. Sharks are often seen from 
 the boats, and by the divers when they are at the bottom of 
 the sea, but an accident rarely occurs. Many fisheries have 
 been completed without one diver being hurt; and perhaps not 
 more than one instance is to be found in the course of twenty 
 years. 
 
 The prejudices of the natives, however, are not to be com- 
 bated with impunity : and any infringement on their esta- 
 
PEARL FISHERY. 
 
 53 
 
 blishcd customs would be impolitic, if it were practicable. 
 Their superstition in this particular is favourable to the in- 
 terests of government, as, from their terror at diving without 
 the protection of the charms, it prevents any attempt being 
 made to plunder the oyster banks. 
 
 When a young diver is training to the business, he descends 
 in the arms of a man completely experienced in the art, who 
 takes great care of him, and shews him the manner of proceed- 
 ing; and the pupil at first brings up in his hand a single oyster, 
 a stone, a piece of coral, or a little sand, merely to shew that 
 he has reached the bottom. 
 
 Many of the divers are trained to the business by diving for 
 chancques, which are found in more shallow water. 
 
 I observed with attention the length of time that many of 
 the divers remained under water, in the depth of seven fathoms. 
 Some of them performed the dip within the space of one mi- 
 nute; others came up in one minute and twenty seconds. Some 
 gentlemen, who have frequently superintended the fisheries, 
 and accompanied the divers to the banks, consider one minute 
 and a half as the longest period that any diver remains under 
 water. Other gentlemen, who are willing to allow the greatest 
 .atitude, say that they certainly never knew a diver exceed two 
 minutes. 
 
 In ground richly clothed with oysters, a diver often puts 
 upwards of one hundred and fifty into his basket at one dip: 
 but, when the oysters are thinly scattered, he as frequently col- 
 lects no more than five. 
 
54 
 
 PEARL FISHERY. 
 
 The men after diving generally find a small quantity of 
 blood issue from their nose and ears, which they consider as a 
 favourable symptom, and perform the operation with greater 
 ease and comfort after the bleeding has commenced. They 
 seem to enjoy the labour as a pleasant pastime, and never mur- 
 mur nor complain, unless when the banks present a scarcity 
 of oysters; their fatigue is then the same, and their profit is 
 greatly diminished. 
 
 There are two divers attached to each stone, so that they go 
 down alternately; and the one rests and refreshes, while the 
 other plunges. The period allotted to the operation of diving 
 continues from five to six hours. When three hundred boats 
 are anchored on the banks, fifteen hundred divers may be sup- 
 posed to descend every minute. The noise of their going down 
 prevails without interruption, and resembles the dashing of a 
 cataract. 
 
 When the day is sufficiently advanced, and the sea-breeze 
 has set in, the head pilot makes a signal, which is repeated by 
 his assistants, and the fleet set sail for the shore. They gener- 
 ally leave the banks between the hours of one and two P. M. 
 and arrive at the beach of Condaatchy between four and five. 
 They come into view in a regular line, and the number that can 
 be counted increases gradually as they advance. They cer- 
 tainly afford an uncommon sight; but the size of the vessels is 
 not large enough to add grandeur to the scene. Many spec- 
 tators are continually looking out for their appearance; and as 
 soon as they heave in sight flags are hoisted at the different 
 
PEARL FISHERY. 
 
 55 
 
 banksals, or enclosures along the shore, and at the head-quar- 
 ters of the troops. All descriptions of people, whose duty does 
 not prevent them, hasten to the water’s-edge to welcome the 
 arrival of the fleet. The concourse of people, stir, and noise, 
 are then immense; a crowd, through which it is difficult to pass, 
 extending for half a mile along the sand. Every boat comes 
 to its own station, and the oysters are immediately put on the 
 shoulders of the divers, and carried into the inclosures. The 
 two divers attached to each stone keep their oysters in separate 
 parcels, and they are put into nets and baskets in the boat. 
 The oysters of each stone, when landed, are counted by the 
 divers into four heaps, and a person employed on the part of 
 the renter points out to them one of these, which they carry 
 away as their own wages. But after the diver leaves the bank- 
 sail with the fourth part of his oysters, he is subjected to a mul- 
 titude of small exactions, which greatly diminish the amount of 
 his profit. The munducs receive one sixth of the divers’ share: 
 each of the other persons belonging to the boat is allowed 
 twenty oysters per diem, and the renter’s peon is allowed ten. 
 Two native servants employed in the general conduct and re- 
 gulation of the concern are authorised to demand ten oysters 
 each. The two shark-binders are allowed, between them, ten 
 oysters; and the two pagodas of Ramisseram and Nagore each 
 the same number. What remains of his share the diver imme- 
 diately exposes for sale in the bazar or market-place ; and most 
 commonly exchanges his oysters for money before sun-set. The 
 first day the oysters sold at two for one fanam, but afterwards 
 
56 
 
 PEARL FISHERY. 
 
 fell greatly in value. They are purchased in small quantities 
 by a variety of speculators, with a view of profit, and by a few 
 merely for amusement. There is scarcely a gentleman or ser- 
 vant of any description present at the scene, who does not 
 every day lay out a small sum in an adventure of this nature. 
 The oysters belonging to the renter are piled up in large heaps 
 within the inclosures, and he does not wash or open any of 
 them until the fishery is considerably advanced. He sells 
 none of them, and trusts to receive his profit from their pro- 
 duce. 
 
 The boat owner receives for the use of his boat the shares of 
 all the divers, without any deductions, every sixth day. They 
 never fish on Sundays. All the pilots, and many of the divers, 
 are Christians, and attend the Romish chapel in the village of 
 Aripo. The Hindoos also have places of worship in the neigh- 
 bourhood, to which they resort. But independently of these 
 circumstances, the labour is so incessant and fatiguing, that, 
 without the intervention of a day of rest, the work could not 
 be carried on. 
 
 From the period that the diver disposes of his oysters, until 
 near midnight, is all the portion of time allotted him for refresh- 
 ment and rest. He, however, as well as the greater part of the 
 crew, generally sleeps on board the boat on its passage to the 
 banks. But when it is necessary to ply the oars, as sometimes 
 happens, all hands are employed. 
 
 Notwithstanding the many exactions and drawbacks im- 
 posed on the divers, when the fishery proves successful, each 
 
PEARL FISHERY. 
 
 57 
 
 man carries home at the end of the season from forty to fifty 
 pagodas 'to his family. But when oysters do not abound on 
 the banks, the reward of his toil is not more than sufficient to 
 afford him daily subsistence. 
 
 Government allows the fishing of two boats to the temple of 
 
 » 
 
 Bamisseram ; the produce of four stones, or four-fifths of a boat, 
 to the chief of the Parrahwahs (fishermen and divers) residing 
 at Tutokareen, on the coast of Coromandel. They also give 
 small privileges to several other pagodas of less note than that 
 of Ramisseram, making in all a donation of five boats. These 
 donations are allowed in consequence of ancient grants made 
 by the rajahs of the country, before European settlements were 
 formed in India. 
 
 There is one stone and two divers in each pilot’s boat, which 
 they have the privilege of employing for their own advantage: 
 but they are kept in such constant motion, looking out for rich 
 spots for the other boats, that they gain but little by all the 
 oysters that they have time to pick up. They however enjoy 
 several other little privileges from government, wffiich enable 
 them to live in a state of tolerable comfort. 
 
 At many fisheries upwards of two millions of oysters have 
 been brought on shore at one time; and, from the simple man- 
 ner of division, all counted and appropriated in less than half 
 an hour. 
 
 One boat has been known to bring to land in one day thirty- 
 three thousand oysters, and in another not more than three hun- 
 dred. This difference proceeds chiefly from the state of the 
 
 VOL. II. i 
 
58 
 
 PEARL FISHERY. 
 
 banks. But the dexterity of the divers is likewise distinguished 
 by the quantity of oysters which their labour produces. 
 
 Adventurers on a small scale open the oysters at the time 
 they buy them, or the following morning; and the larger pearls 
 are picked out of the fleshy part by a sharp-pointed knife, with 
 which the oysters are opened. Some do not think it worth the 
 while to preserve the substance of the oysters. Others spread 
 them out to dry on cloths in the sun, after which more pearls 
 are found; and when the oysters have mouldered into dust, 
 the seed pearls are easily separated from the sand. 
 
 In the common way, on the large scale, the oysters are 
 allowed to remain in heaps for ten days after they are brought 
 on shore; that time being necessary to render them putrid. 
 
 In some of the palisades, within which the oysters are de- 
 posited, there are four square spaces paved and inclosed by 
 brick walls about a foot in height, for the better preservation 
 of the pearls. These compartments communicate by four un- 
 covered drains of gradual descent, with a small bath in the 
 centre of the inclosure, so that whatever pearls are swept away 
 by accidental rains, or the washing of the oysters, are carried 
 into this cistern, and none can be lost. Where there are no 
 pavements of the above description, the oysters are heaped on 
 double mats spread upon the sand within the palisades, at the 
 gate of each of which a constant guard is kept for the preven- 
 tion of thefts. But notwithstanding all the vigilance which 
 can be used, pilfering prevails through the different scenes of 
 the fishery in endless variety. The divers, the boat-men, the 
 
PEARL FISHERY. 
 
 59 
 
 persons employed in washing the oysters and sifting the sand, 
 leave no expedient untried to accomplish frauds. Even the 
 peons, employed as a check upon the labourers, have been 
 known to attach a viscous substance to the end of their canes, 
 and extract from the washing-troughs valuable pearls, with the 
 very instrument used to punish such delinquencies. 
 
 When the oysters are in a state sufficiently decayed, and fit 
 to be washed, a portion of them is thrown into a canoe, fifteen 
 feet in length, three feet broad, and three feet deep. The canoe 
 is filled with salt water, in which the oysters are allowed to steep 
 for twelve hours, to soften their putrid substance, and disengage 
 it from the maggots, which float upon the surface, and are easily 
 thrown out. From twelve to fifteen naked coolies are ranged 
 along the sides of the canoe, which is a little elevated at one 
 end, so as to allow the water to run off when it is full. The 
 oysters are taken up, one by one, the shells broken from one 
 another, and washed in the water. The stench proceeding 
 from the canoe during this operation is the most nauseous that 
 can ever be experienced ; and a person who is led there merely 
 by curiosity, does not remain long near it. The labourers and 
 overseers, however, from habit become insensible of the smell, 
 and prosecute their business, without expressing any disagree- 
 able sensations. Those shells which have pearls adhering to 
 them are thrown to one side, and afterwards handed to clip- 
 pers, whose business it is to disengage the pearls from the shells 
 by a forceps and hammer. These pearls, called otto-moottoo, 
 imperfect and- deformed as they are, have been generally esti- 
 
60 
 
 PEARL FISHERY, 
 
 mated at forty pagodas per pound, and at this fishery sold for 
 sixty-four. The roundest and best of them are rendered fit to 
 be strung with other pearls. Many of them answer for setting- 
 in pins and rings. The rubbish is mixed with the sand pearl, 
 and sold to make chunam for the palates of the inhabitants of 
 China. This part of the produce of the pearl fishery is sufficient 
 to pay the wages of all the servants and labourers, and other in- 
 cidental expences attending the concern. When all the shells 
 are thrown out, the slimy substance of the oysters, turned into 
 mud, remains mixed with sand and small fragments of shells at 
 the bottom of the canoe. The dirty water is lifted off in buckets 
 from the lower end of the canoe, and poured into a sack, hung 
 like a jelly-bag, so that no pearls can be lost. Clear water is 
 then poured in at the upper end of the canoe, and three or four 
 men move up the rotten stuff and sand with their hands from 
 the lower end, and prevent the pearls from being washed down; 
 which sink to the bottom, and are kept back by raised pieces 
 of the wood left in hollowing out the canoe. The large pearls 
 are then distinctly seen, and the whole of the stuff taken from 
 the canoe and the bag is spread out on coarse cloths to dry in 
 the sun. 
 
 After the sand is dry, a great many hands are employed in 
 sifting it, and picking out the pearls. The large ones, being- 
 conspicuous, are easily gathered; but the separating of the 
 small and diminutive is a work of considerable labour. Great 
 
 numbers of women and children resort to Condaatchy to be 
 
 * % 
 
 employed in this service; and although their wages are small, 
 
PEARL FISHERY. 
 
 61 
 
 they work willingly, with the hope of accidental plunder. They 
 are seated in rows on the matted floors of little huts, and pass 
 the rubbish on round trays from one to another. I observed 
 five persons in a line occupied in this work. The two first 
 were women merely winnowing the sand, and allowing the 
 lighter particles to fall on pieces of cloth laid on the floor. 
 After it had gone through this operation by both of the women, 
 it was handed to a little girl, w T ho attentively examined the 
 sand, spreading it on a flat tray, and picking out all the pearls 
 she could find, many of them less than the heads of small pins. 
 She then passed the remains of the sand to two men, who spread 
 it on a brass plate, two feet in diameter, which they held in a 
 slanting direction, and, moving the sand frequently up to the 
 elevated side, the diminutive pearls, being of a globular form, 
 rolled down to the lower end. These operations are succes- 
 sively repeated, until no pearly substance whatever appears to 
 remain among the sand, which is then thrown away. 
 
 But notwithstanding all the precautions which are taken, 
 many pearls, and not a few of them of considerable size and 
 value, escape attention, and elude the diligence of search ; par- 
 ticularly in those places where the oysters are spread on mats 
 on the ground, and washed without the advantage of inclosed 
 pavements, multitudes are lost in the loose sand, the only soil 
 about Condaatchy. The privilege of examining and sifting this 
 soil is rented for a considerable sum, for one or two years, after 
 all the business of the fishery is over. 
 v The pearl oysters are not esteemed good to eat, being of a 
 
62 
 
 PEARL FISHERY. 
 
 much Fatter and more glutinous substance than the common 
 oyster. Even if they were esteemed palatable, the eating of 
 them could not become general, without interfering with one 
 of the purposes for which they are taken, as it is impossible to 
 extract the seed-pearls until after the body of the oyster is com- 
 pletely decayed. When the oysters are opened fresh, they are 
 sometimes dried in the sun, and eaten by the poorer classes of 
 people. 
 
 After the pearls are separated from the sand, washed with 
 salt water, dried, and rendered perfectly clean, they are sorted 
 into classes according to their sizes, by being passed through 
 ten brass sieves or saucers full of round holes. The saucers are 
 apparently all of one size, but made so as to go in within one 
 another. They are distinguished into numbers, 20, 30, 50, 80, 
 100, 200, 400, 600, 800, and 1000. This is a kind of ratio to 
 estimate the value of the different sizes of pearls; and probably 
 the distinguishing numbers, in some measure, correspond with 
 the quantity of holes in each bason. These completely occupy 
 the bottom of the vessel; and as they increase in number, ne- 
 cessarily decrease in size. The pearls are thrown in a promis- 
 cuous heap into the uppermost sieve, which being raised a little, 
 and shaken, the greater part of them pass through into the se- 
 cond sieve, and only those remain which exceed a large pea in 
 size. The second sieve is shaken in the same manner; the pearls 
 that remain in it are of the size of a small pea, or grain of 
 black pepper. The quantity of pearls gradually increases as 
 the size diminishes. Those which fall through the tenth saucer 
 
PEARL FISHERY. 
 
 63 
 
 (N° 1000), belong to the class of tool, or seed pearls, so called 
 from the smallness of their size. 
 
 I saw this operation of sorting the pearls performed with 
 the produce of seventeen thousand oysters, which only weighed 
 three quarters of a pound, and was contained in a vessel smaller 
 than a common soup-plate. Out of that quantity there were 
 not found two perfect pearls, either of the first or second order. 
 About twenty or thirty pearls remained in these saucers, but 
 almost all of them were slightly deformed, rugged, and uneven. 
 Of the smaller sizes many were round and perfect. 
 
 The pearls contained in the sieves from number 20 to 80 
 inclusive are distinguished by the general name of mell, or the 
 first order. Those of the sieves from number 100 to 1000 are 
 denominated vadivoo, or the second order. Both these orders 
 are divided into various sorts, according to their shape, lustre, 
 and other qualities ; amongst which are annees, annadaree, 
 kayerel, samadiem, kallipoo, koorwel, pesul, and tool. The 
 annees are the first sort, perfectly round, and of the most bril- 
 liant lustre. Annadaree is a subdivision of them, possessing 
 the same qualities in an inferior degree. Kayerel is the next 
 in beauty, but not so completely round, and of a duller colour. 
 To this class belongs the samadiem, Avhich is nearly of the form 
 of a pear, and the kallipoo, which has flat sides. The koorwel, 
 or third class, is a double pearl, ill-shaped, and of a dull water; 
 to it may be added the pesul, the most deformed of all the 
 pearls, and the tool, the most diminutive. 
 
 The different descriptions of pearls are sent to different 
 
64 
 
 PEARL FISHERY. 
 
 markets: but at the fishery all the kinds are generally sold 
 mixed together, at two hundred pagodas [or 80 /. sterling] per 
 pound. 
 
 Various and curious are the operations which the pearls 
 undergo, from the time that they are first raised from their 
 native beds by the poorest of the human species, until at last 
 they blaze in the eyes of an Indian idol, shine in a diadem, or 
 add grace and beauty to the bosom of a queen. 
 
 The method of determining the price of the different sorts 
 
 ✓ 
 
 of pearls is regulated by an imaginary criterion, estimating the 
 proportion of that quality which attaches to them the highest 
 value. It has the appearance of being intricate and difficult, 
 but is considered simple by those who understand it. Size, 
 roundness, and brightness seem to be the qualities on which it 
 hinges. The pearls in the market of Condaatchy are spread out 
 upon blue carpets, but those of the first order are never seen to 
 so much advantage as on the neck of one of our fair country- 
 women : this, without intending any compliment to the ladies, 
 is the opinion of the most celebrated jewellers. The beauty of 
 a pearl cannot be so well judged of on a dark as on a fair skin. 
 
 The next operation which -claims attention is the drilling of 
 the pearls. I neglected to inspect this part of the business; 
 but have been informed that much admiration is excited, both 
 by the dexterity of the artist, and the rude simplicity of the 
 machinery which he employs. A block of wood, of the form 
 of an inverted cone, is raised upon three feet about twelve 
 inches from the ground. Small holes or pits of various sizes 
 
PEARL FISHERY. 
 
 65 
 
 are cut in the upper flat surface, for the reception of the pearls. 
 The driller sits on his haunches close to this machine, which is 
 called a vadeagrum. The pearls are driven steady into their 
 sockets by a piece of iron with flat sides, about one inch and 
 a half in length. A well tempered needle is fixed in a reed five 
 inches long, with an iron point at the other end, formed to play 
 in the socket of a cocoa-nut shell, which presses on the forehead 
 of the driller. A bow is formed of a piece of bamboo and a 
 string. The workman brings his right knee in a line with the 
 vadeagrum, and places on it a small cup, formed of part of a 
 cocoa-nut shell, which is filled with water to moderate the heat 
 of friction. He bends his head over the machine, and apply- 
 ing the point of the needle to a pearl sunk in one of the pits, 
 drills with great facility, every now and then dexterously dip- 
 ping the little finger of his right hand in the water, and apply- 
 ing it to the needle, without impeding the operation. In this 
 manner he bores a pearl in the space of two or three minutes; 
 and in the course of a day perforates three hundred small or 
 six hundred large pearls. The needle is frequently sharpened 
 with oil on a stone slab, and sometimes, before that operation 
 is performed, is heated in the flame of a lamp. 
 
 The large pearls are generally drilled first, in order to bring 
 the hand in to work with more ease on those of a smaller size: 
 and pearls less than a grain of mustard-seed are pierced with 
 little difficulty. 
 
 After the pearls have been drilled, they must be immedi- 
 ately washed in salt and water, to prevent the stains which would 
 otherwise be occasioned by the perforating instrument. 
 
 VOL. II. K 
 
 i 
 
66 
 
 PEARL FISHERY. 
 
 The next branch of the business is the selecting and arrang- 
 ing of pearls on strings, which requires much more labour, and 
 greater acquaintance with the subject, than a common observer 
 would be apt to imagine. It is considered as the most difficult 
 operation in the profession of the pearl merchant, and is one in 
 which very few excel. 
 
 The pearls of the largest dimensions, being most costly, and 
 esteemed as emblems of greatness, find a ready sale among the 
 rich natives of the Nizam’s dominions, the country of Guzerat, 
 and other parts of the Indian peninsula. 
 
 The finest annee pearls, from the size of the sieve N° 30 to 
 that of N° 80, which make most beautiful necklaces, are sent 
 to Europe. 
 
 A necklace of the value of three thousand pagodas [or 1200/. 
 sterling] could not be procured at this fishery. The renter kept 
 the prices up as long as he could, and at last carried his pearls 
 to Madras. 
 
 It is generally understood, that those of the smaller sizes 
 are most in demand in Russia, Germany, France, and Eng- 
 land. 
 
 A handsome necklace, of pearls smaller than a large pea, 
 costs from one hundred and seventy to three hundred pounds 
 sterling. But a very pretty necklace of pearls, about the size 
 of a pepper- corn, may be procured for fifteen pounds. The 
 former pearls sell at one guinea each, and the latter at eighteen 
 pence. When the pearls dwindle to the size of small shot, they 
 are sold at a very trifling price. 
 
 The smaller sorts are sent to the markets of Hydrabad, 
 
PEARL FISHERY. 
 
 67 
 
 Poona, Guzerat, and Mysore; in which last mentioned, pearls 
 of a yellow tinge are preferred to those of a pure white, being- 
 considered as having arrived at greater maturity, less liable to 
 fade, and retaining their lustre to a longer period. The refuse 
 and lower orders of all the pearls turn out to good account in 
 the China market, where those of superior value cannot be sold. 
 The tool, without any intermixture of other classes, does not 
 sell for more than seven or eight pagodas per pound ; and this 
 is said to be the most profitable to carry to the Chinese, by 
 whom, as has been before suggested, they are eaten when 
 pounded into powder, and sometimes scattered like spangles 
 on their clothes. 
 
 The various markets, however, on the continent of India 
 are only known to the native merchants of the different coun- 
 tries, who reside as agents at Madras, and resort personally to 
 the fishery for the purpose of purchasing pearls. Many of these 
 are extremely wealthy, and afford a great display of opulence 
 in their personal appearance, their retinue, and the quantity of 
 specie which accompanies them. Individuals have been known 
 to bring from twenty to thirty thousand pagodas for the purpose 
 of speculating at the fishery. During its continuance the price 
 of pearls fluctuates often from twenty to thirty per cent, so that 
 a person may purchase pearls at one period, and sell them to 
 great advantage at another. 
 
 Pearls sell at a higher price in the market of Condaatchy, 
 
 / . 
 
 during the fishery, than in any other part of India. This may 
 be accounted for from the immense number of purchasers, and 
 
68 
 
 PEARL FISHERY. 
 
 and the great number of pearls that are to be procured ; so that 
 every person has an opportunity of being supplied with the par- 
 ticular kind and quantity which he requires. And if competi- 
 tion raise the market, a person, who has gone there for the pur- 
 pose of purchasing, will rather expend a few additional pagodas 
 than be deprived of the object of his journey. 
 
 Those who have been disappointed in the speculation of 
 buying up pearls with a view of selling them in the same mar- 
 ket, rather than dispose of them to a disadvantage, carry them 
 off, and keep them by them until the next Condaatchy fair, 
 when they again have an opportunity of displaying them to a 
 concourse of merchants, and a chance of gaining a handsome 
 profit. 
 
 The variety of speculations, from the splendid adventures 
 of the merchant who lays out four thousand pounds sterling in 
 a day, to the more humble dealings of the man, whose whole 
 fortune does not exceed fifteen shillings, would, of itself, afford 
 sufficient materials for an interesting volume. 
 
 On the occasion of a pearl fishery, immense sums of money 
 are lent by pawnbrokers, a race of people that abound in all 
 parts of Ceylon. Persons of every description flock to the 
 market for the purpose of gambling; and the lowest of the peo- 
 ple, if they can command even the most trifling sum, dream of 
 nothing but making their fortune there. 
 
 The pearl has been generally supposed to be a disease in 
 the oyster, and is composed of layers successively deposited, 
 of a substance similar to that of the shell. These coats are 
 
PEARL FISHERY. 
 
 69 
 
 easily removed by a skilful hand ; and by this operation pearls 
 which are found discoloured, often regain their natural bright- 
 ness. 
 
 The pearls in general are of a bright shining white; but a 
 few are sometimes found of a beautiful pink, others of a bright 
 gold colour, and a jet black, round and perfect, as well as 
 rugged and uneven. The number of these is so small, as to 
 answer no other purpose but to be shewn as curiosities. A 
 few pearls of the above descriptions were presented to Lord 
 Viscount Valentia at Columbo by Joseph Jonville, Esq. late 
 naturalist in Ceylon. 
 
 A scientific description of the oyster, the formation of the 
 pearl, and a list of the zoophytes which adhere to the shell, are 
 published in the second supplemental volume to the works of Sir 
 William Jones, N° XXIV. page 1070. London, printed 1801. 
 
 If the pearl be a disease, it is certain that the whole race 
 has been impregnated with the seeds of the disorder; for every 
 one of the species, when carefully examined, is found to con- 
 tain a proportion of the minute particles, from which the larger 
 pearls take their rise. But as nature has formed the peculiar 
 properties of animals to promote their benefit and preservation, 
 may we not rather suppose that the pearl is of some use to the 
 oyster, than that it is a continual torment, at last ending in its 
 destruction ? 
 
 The fishery of 1804 disappointed in some measure the ex- 
 pectations of the government, the renter, and the public. The 
 oysters were good, but few in number. The quantity brought 
 
70 
 
 PEARL FISHERY. 
 
 on shore in one day seldom averaged more than three thousand 
 per boat. 
 
 One day, owing to a calm, the boats were rowed with oars 
 to the banks, and back to the shore. They set out at one 
 o’clock A. M. and did not return until near eight in the even- 
 ing. But notwithstanding this excessive toil, they renewed 
 their daily labours in less than five hours. 
 
 On the 17th of March, the boats were stopped after setting 
 out, by a contrary wind, which obliged them to anchor about 
 six miles from land. As it appeared impracticable at sun-rise 
 to prosecute their usual work that day, they returned empty to 
 the shore. After this, the weather prevented fishing for a fort- 
 night. Notwithstanding these interruptions, the season per- 
 mitted the fishery to be carried on for several daj’s, after the 
 time of agreement with the renter was cpmpleted. As he had 
 been unsuccessful, he was allowed the produce of the extra 
 days at the rate of 400/. sterling each day. Government also 
 granted him a remission of about one-third of the rent which 
 he had bargained to pay ; so that the total gain to the revenue 
 by this fishery did not exceed seventy-five thousand pounds 
 sterling. Government however would not have realized nearly 
 so much, if they had conducted the concern on their own 
 account, for it was w'ell known that the renter lost by it. 
 
 During the carrying on of the business, the renter indulged 
 in a number of superstitious ceremonies, with a view of pro- 
 moting his success; and allowed himself to be led away by 
 soothsayers and magicians. In all his conduct he discovered 
 
PEARL FISHERY. 
 
 71 
 
 that low cunning, duplicity, and mysteriousness, which charac- 
 terize the higher ranks of Indians. Government, however, 
 knew perfectly the number of oysters which were caught; and 
 from specimens of them which were examined, their total pro- 
 duce was calculated with considerable accuracy. 
 
 As the result of this fishery did not answer the expectations 
 of the public, many people were of opinion that some altera- 
 tion had taken place in the state of the banks; and that the 
 change was occasioned by part of the oysters being buried in 
 the sand. Their quantity however must have been lessened by 
 the frequency of former fisheries; and it is not probable that 
 any season, under the English government, produced so many 
 pearls as the first in 179b? for which preparations were made, 
 and a bargain concluded, before the surrender of Columbo. 
 No fishery, as has been already mentioned, had taken place 
 from the year 1?68 until this period. The discontinuance of 
 the business was occasioned by various causes; one of which 
 arose from a claim of the Nabob of Arcot, who, in conse- 
 quence of its being refused, would not allow the divers and 
 boats to proceed from his territories to the bay of Condaat- 
 chy. It cannot be supposed that the government of Madras 
 knew sufficiently the richness of the pearl-beds at that time. 
 Their servants on the spot shared the same ignorance. From 
 the unsettled state of the country, no native made suitable 
 offers for the fishery; it was therefore let to Mr. John Jervis, a 
 junior merchant of the Company, on terms, by which he might 
 have acquired a handsome fortune; but his courage failed him, 
 
72 
 
 PEARL FISHERY. 
 
 and he was released from the bargain. The farm was then 
 rented by some natives of Jaffnapatam, who paid for it about 
 60,000/. sterling, and cleared by the adventure three times that 
 sum. 
 
 Complete possession of the island having been obtained, 
 and the natives inspired with confidence in the new govern- 
 ment, the right of fishing in 1797 was purchased by Cundapah 
 Chi tty of Jaffnapatam, for upwards of 110,000/. which, with a 
 prolonged fishery, and ammanee, raised the net proceeds of 
 this year to about 144,000/. sterling. When the number of 
 divers in a boat is rendered incomplete by sickness or deser- 
 tion, the oysters belonging to it are counted, and paid for at a 
 certain rate per thousand: this is called ammanee. 
 
 A great decrease in the number of oysters was observable 
 at the second fishery, the daily quantity landed from each 
 boat being averaged at only eight thousand, while at the first 
 it amounted to twelve thousand. The same renter purchased 
 the fishery of 1798 for 140,400/. which, with the prolonged 
 fishery and ammanee, yielded a clear revenue of 192,000/. 
 sterling. The daily produce of a boat this year was averaged 
 at only six thousand oysters. 
 
 Another fishery took place in the year 1799; but the banks 
 having been exhausted by the three preceding fisheries, it only 
 yielded 30,000/. 
 
 The small pearl banks opposite to Chilauw had lain un- 
 touched from the year 1766 to the year 1803, when they were 
 brought again into notice. In the month of March of that 
 
PEARL FISHERY. 
 
 73 
 
 year, a fishery on a small scale took place there. The pearls 
 were found to be of a superior quality and colour, and pro- 
 duced a revenue of 15,000/. 
 
 Another fishery took place at Aripo in the month of March 
 1806, which yielded 35,000/. 
 
 During the time that the British government has possessed 
 Ceylon, almost an annual revenue has been drawn from the 
 pearl banks ; and if they are fished in future with careful ex- 
 amination, and strict attention not to return too frequently to 
 the same ground, similar advantages may continue. From the 
 uncertainty of our retaining possession of the island, the various 
 beds were stripped at first with too little discrimination, and 
 too much avidity. 
 
 The simplicity, ease, and expedition, which pervade all the 
 departments of this extensive concern, and the trifling expence 
 which attends the gathering in of so rich a harvest, are subjects 
 well calculated to excite admiration. 
 
 The fishery of 1804 was conducted with more uniform regu- 
 larity, and less confusion, than any other which previously took 
 place under the British administration. The disputes amongst 
 the natives were less frequent, and less litigious than usual. 
 There was no riot; and no accident happened by fire. 
 
 The prevailing good order was accounted for b}' the crowd 
 not being so great as on former occasions, and the business 
 being more limited. It was likewise ascribed to a regular court 
 of justice established on the spot, to little influence being lodged 
 in native agents, and to awe inspired by a respectable military 
 force stationed at Condaatchy. 
 
 VOL. II. 
 
 L 
 
74 
 
 PEARL FISHERY. 
 
 The variety of characters, and display of curious manners, 
 are not the least interesting objects to be met with at this splen- 
 did mart. Parties of strolling jugglers, tumblers, and female 
 dancers, mendicants of all descriptions, dwarfs, persons shock- 
 ingly deformed, mechanics of every trade, and retailers in every 
 branch of commerce, even from the remotest parts of India, 
 resort to Condaatchy during the season of a pearl fishery, to 
 catch what they can of the transient stream of wealth which 
 flows periodically through its barren plains. 
 
 At almost every inclosure along the shore is erected a 
 moveable cross, or wheel, with four hanging boxes fixed to the 
 four opposite points, in which children are permitted to swing 
 for a certain time, on payment of a sum not exceeding a farthing. 
 The weight in one box lowers it down, and raises up another; 
 and the machine goes round like a windmill, one box being 
 elevated to the summit, while that opposite is depressed to the 
 lowest point. 
 
 The jugglers in slight of hand, and variety of curious per- 
 formances, excel those of Europe. Many of their exhibitions 
 require such flexibility of body, and such perfect command 
 over every joint, that they could not be imitated in a cold cli- 
 mate. A man sits on the ground, with no other clothing but 
 a piece of muslin about his waist, twirls a large iron ring on 
 each great toe, bends backwards, keeps four hollow brass balls 
 in a circular motion in the air, and makes them pass in their 
 course between his legs, which are likewise constantly moving 
 one over the other; at the same time he threads a quantity of 
 small beads in his mouth, without any assistance from his hands. 
 
PEARL FISHERY. 
 
 75 
 
 The various tricks with cups and balls he exhibits with admir- 
 able dexterity, while his arms are perfectly naked. He shews 
 a snake, a foot in length, coiled under one of the cups, and then 
 draws the animal out of his mouth, without a possibility of the 
 deception being detected. He puts a piece of iron twenty-one 
 inches perpendicularly down his throat. The iron has blunt 
 edges, and is somewhat of the form of a spit, but rounded at 
 the point. Before commencing the operation, he moistens it 
 with his lips, and erects his mouth in a line with his throat. 
 After the piece of iron is down, he places a horizontal brass 
 wheel on the point of the handle : on the wheel are fixed rockets, 
 to which he sets fire, and it whirls round with great rapidity in 
 the midst of flames and noise, he all the time holding the han- 
 dle of the spit steadily in his hand. Having been trained to 
 this operation from his infancy, his throat is rendered callous. 
 Sometimes he appears as if he felt uneasiness while the steel is 
 in his body, but he never acknowledges it, although he is very 
 thankful for a glass of brandy when he draws out the instru- 
 ment. In this performance there is no deception : the fact is 
 incontestibly proved, and has been seen by almost every Eng- 
 lishman who has visited India. The instrument has no other 
 handle but a piece of its own solid substance, tapering to a 
 point. Its shape is thus particularly mentioned, because, from 
 its having been called a sword, the circumstance w^as not gene- 
 rally credited. Some exhibitions in balancing are performed 
 with such complicated machinery, that they cannot easily be 
 described. 
 
 * 
 
76 
 
 PEARL FISHERY. 
 
 Amongst the numerous feats performed at Condaatchy in 
 March 1804, those of a female of forty years of age perhaps 
 deserve to be mentioned. She belonged to a strolling party 
 which had repaired thither from the north of the Deccan. The 
 instrument on which she displayed her agility was a pole forty 
 feet high, erected like the mast of a ship, with a cross-yard near 
 to the top of it, from one end of which a wooden anchor was 
 suspended. This woman, in the dress of a sailor, sprang up to 
 the yard on a single rope, by means of her hands and toes. 
 There she lay carelessly down in a sleeping posture. She then 
 ascended the top of the mast, and threw down a branch of 
 
 l 
 
 a tree, which had been fixed there. She laid her stomach on 
 the top of the pole, and personified a weathercock, turning 
 round horizontally. She afterwards wrapped herself up in a 
 flowing garment, and went through many dexterous manoeu- 
 vres. She descended to the anchor, and suspended herself 
 from it alternately by her chin, her feet, her toes, and her heels, 
 keeping her hands-entirely disengaged. Her last performance 
 was hanging by the feet on the yard, dropping down, and light- 
 ing in the same position on the stock of the anchor. During 
 the exhibition, she harangued a gazing crowd with impetuous 
 vociferation; and on her descent she received from them a vo- 
 luntary, though humble contribution. 
 
 The following extract from the Asiatic Annual Register of 
 the year 1800 may not be unacceptable in this place, and it 
 may be considered as tolerably accurate. 
 
 I 
 
» 
 
 PEARL FISHERY. 77 
 
 \ 
 
 / 
 
 Supplement to the Chronicle , p. 122. 
 
 4 His Excellency the Honourable Frederic North, by the 
 * last ships from Ceylon, has transmitted a very minute detail 
 4 of the pearl fisher}' in all its stages, some of which are truly 
 4 singular and remarkable. It appears that the fear of sharks 
 4 is the cause of a great deal of interruption to the fishery, the 
 4 divers being extremely timid and superstitious. Every one 
 4 of them, even the most expert, entertains a dread of the sharks, 
 4 and will not on any account descend, until the conjurer has 
 4 performed his ceremonies. This prejudice is so deeply rooted 
 4 in their minds, that the government was obliged to keep two 
 4 such conjurers in their pay, to remove the fears of the divers. 
 4 The manner of enchanting consists of a number of prayers 
 4 learned by heart, that nobody, probably not even the conj urer 
 4 himself, understands, which he, standing on the shore, conti- 
 4 nues muttering and grumbling from sunrise until the boats 
 4 return. During this period the conjurers are obliged to ab- 
 4 stain from food and sleep, otherwise their prayers would be 
 4 of no avail: they are however allowed to drink, Avhich privi- 
 4 lege they indulge in a high degree, and are frequently so 
 4 giddy, as to be rendered very unfit for devotion. Some of 
 4 these conjurers accompany the divers in their boats, which 
 4 pleases them very much, as they have their protectors near at 
 4 hand. Nevertheless, I was told, said Mr. North, that in one 
 4 of the preceding fisheries a diver lost a leg by a shark; and 
 
78 
 
 PEARL FISHERY. 
 
 6 when the head conjurer was called to an account for the acci- 
 4 dent, he replied, that an old witch had just come from the 
 4 coast, who, from envy and malice, had caused this disaster 
 4 by a counter-conjuration, which made fruitless his skill, and 
 4 which he was informed of too late; but he afterwards shewed 
 4 his superiority, by enchanting the sharks so effectually, that 
 4 though they appeared to most of the divers, they were unable 
 4 to open their mouths. During my stay at Condaatchy, con- 
 4 tinues Mr. North, no accident of this kind happened. If a 
 4 shark is seen, the divers immediately make a signal, which 
 4 on perceiving, all the boats return to the shore. A diver who 
 4 trod upon a hammer oyster, and was somewhat wounded, 
 4 thought he was bit by a shark, consequently made the usual 
 4 signal, which caused all the boats to return, for which mistake 
 4 he was afterwards punished. The largest and most perfect 
 4 pearl taken last season was about the size of a small pistol 
 4 bullet/ 
 
CHAPTER XVII. 
 
 Report of William Orr, Esq. on a Journey from Ten- 
 GALLE to BaTTICALOE. 
 
 Delivered to his Excellency the Hon. Frederic North, at Trincomallee, on 
 the 25th of September, 1800. 
 
 DIRECTIONS FOR STEERING INTO THE BAY OF TENGALLE— S ITU ATION 
 
 OF THE WELL RAVAGES COMMITTED BY ELEPHANTS, AND OTHER 
 
 WILD ANIMALS — LOW STATE OF CULTIVATION RUINOUS CONDI- 
 
 TION OF THE TANKS OR RESERVOIRS FOR SAVING WATER — ’DE- 
 CREASE OF POPULATION — LEWAYS, NATURAL SHEETS OF WATER 
 PRODUCING SALT — MANNER OF COLLECTING IT — HINTS FOR IM- 
 PROVING AND FACILITATING THE PROCESS — WILD COUNTRY — 
 CURIOUS ROCKS. 
 
 A 
 
 Tengalle may be seen a great way off at sea, and is easily 
 known by the small fort, and ruins of an old pagoda, situate 
 on an elevated and projecting point of land on the west side of 
 the bay. The bay itself is of considerable extent, being four 
 
 point of land opposite. The shore is sandy. Off from each 
 point run extensive and dangerous reefs: within the reefs is 
 good anchorage and shelter during the south-west monsoon. 
 The proper entrance to the bay lies betwixt the western rock 
 
80 
 
 JOURNEY FROM TENGALLE 
 
 and a breaker bearing N. N,. E. i E. of it. Betwixt the rock 
 and breaker is a channel of the depth of eight and a half and 
 nine fathoms. The rock is always visible, being very large, 
 and rising several feet above the surface of the water. A ves- 
 sel maj T keep very near the rock, which is of steep descent, but 
 must not come nearer the breaker than soundings of seven 
 fathoms and a half. Should the swell be so considerable, 
 which it commonly is, as to shew the breakers, the best entrance 
 is mid-way betwixt it and the rock, in eight or nine fathoms, 
 over a fine sandy bottom. When here, steer N. W. h W. direct 
 for a small double hill, rising considerably inland, and bearing 
 exactly in the middle of an opening in a plantation of cocoa-nut 
 trees. Continue steering this course until in seven fathoms, fine 
 grey sand, when either anchor, or run farther into the harbour, 
 as circumstances require. Should you incline the latter, and be- 
 ing in seven fathoms, with the bottom fine black sand, when you 
 see a small white pagoda, bearing nearly W. N.W. I W. steer 
 for it, or for a small conical-shaped hill, appearing over the 
 end of the cocoa-nut grove. Steering for either of these objects 
 will bring the vessel directly into the harbour. 
 
 In the middle of the harbour lies a bank, on which are two 
 fathoms water, and a breaker is seen over it. Inside of this 
 bank are four fathoms and a half, the bottom fine sand. Should 
 you incline to anchor inside of it, pass it to the northward, leav- 
 ing it on your starboard hand, when you will find a channel of 
 four fathoms and a half, over a sandy bottom. Betwixt it and 
 the reef that runs off Tengalle Point there is also a channel, 
 
TO B ATTIC ALOE. 
 
 81 
 
 but the bottom is rocky, and the soundings irregular. This 
 breaker almost always shews itself, and can therefore be easily 
 avoided. Within it a vessel is completely sheltered from the 
 west and south-west wind, and rides in tolerably smooth water, 
 the reef of rock, which runs off Tengalle Point, breaking the 
 force of the southerly swell. 
 
 The landing-place, which is perfectly free from surf, lies 
 under the rising ground upon which the fort stands, having the 
 ruins of a house a little to the south of it. About a quarter of 
 a mile from the landing-place, passing the fort, is a well con- 
 taining good water. A path-way leads directly from the fort 
 to the well, where water may be filled, and the casks rolled 
 down to the beach. A small jetty, built at the landing-place, 
 would greatly facilitate the loading of the boats. 
 
 This bay lies completely exposed to the east and south-east 
 winds, which are the most severe on this coast. These com- 
 monly prevail during the months of October, November, and 
 in some measure in December, and blow with most violence at 
 the full and change of the moon; but being of short duration, 
 ships may avoid touching at Tengalle while they last. My stay 
 here was too short to enable me to speak with certainty of the 
 tides ; but, from the observations I was able to make, the rise 
 is inconsiderable. It is high water at full and change. The 
 tide runs N. N. W. and S. S. E. 
 
 The well, as I have already remarked, lies about a quarter 
 of a mile from the landing-place. It is built of bricks and 
 chunam, and must have been executed at a considerable ex- 
 
 VOL. II. 
 
 M 
 
82 
 
 JOURNEY FROM TENGALLE 
 
 pence. The shape is circular, and an ascent of three steps 
 leads up to the top of the wall, inclosing the well, from which 
 to the surface of the water is twenty-one feet, and it is five feet 
 deep. The water is supplied by springs. The’ present passage 
 to the well would be found extremely inconvenient for water- 
 ing a ship, there being a considerable ascent from the well to 
 the fort, and the descent from the fort to the sea-beach is 
 greatly too abrupt to admit rolling a large cask full of Avater, 
 or indeed a cask of any size, without the almost positive cer- 
 tainty of its bursting. I would therefore recommend making 
 a path commencing at the beach, a little to the right of the 
 landing-place, and running in the direction of a hollow, lying 
 betwixt the fort hill and adjacent rising ground. This road 
 might be formed in a straight line from the water’s-edge to the 
 well with little labour, affording a regular and gentle acclivity 
 all the way. Or perhaps it might be preferable to cut a drain 
 in the same direction that I now propose the road being made, 
 and to form an aqueduct from the well to the landing-place. 
 This might be effected at very little more expence and trouble 
 than the road would cost, and is certainly much to be preferred 
 both on account of affording expedition to the ship, and saving 
 labour. 
 
 As leaden pipes are not to be procured in this country, and 
 wooden ones are expensive and of short duration, the curved 
 tiles used for roofing houses might be laid along the drain, pro- 
 perly disposed for conveying the water, and covered by invert- 
 ing others upon them. The sides might be closed, should it 
 
TO BATTICALOE. 
 
 83 
 
 be deemed necessary, in like manner. A leaden or wooden 
 pipe of a few feet in length, provided with a stop-cock, must 
 connect this simple aqueduct with the well. The whole may 
 then be covered in; and if the bricks have been well prepared 
 and thoroughly burned, it will last for many years. As an 
 additional security for its duration, the tiles might be coated 
 with chunam, for making which the rocks about Tengalle afford 
 abundant materials. If a jetty were built at Tengalle, and this 
 mode of conveying the water to the beach be adopted, a leaden 
 or wooden pipe, with a terminating tube of leather, might be 
 led along the wharf, and the casks filled in the boats, without 
 unloading them. 
 
 The situation of Tengalle fort is extremely pleasant, com- 
 manding a fine and extensive prospect both by sea and land; 
 and from its proximity to the celebrated promontory of Don- 
 dera Head, which ships bound for India often endeavour to 
 make, hardly a vessel can pass to the eastern or western coast 
 of the peninsula, without being seen from this station. It is 
 not perhaps quite so cool as Matura, or Point de Galle, owing 
 to the wind (at least during the south-west monsoon) blowing 
 more across the land; yet the temperature of the air is by no 
 means unpleasant, and the climate is salubrious. 
 
 The soil in the immediate neighbourhood of Tengalle is 
 good, though much inclined to the reddish sandy sort so com- 
 mon along the coast; but at a little distance it greatly improves, 
 although still much inferior to the richness of the land I after- 
 wards travelled through in the fine, though little cultivated, 
 province called Mahagampattoe. 
 
 i 
 
84 
 
 JOURNEY FROM TENGALLE 
 
 The village of Tengalle contains nearly three hundred inha- 
 bitants, of whom the greater proportion are fishermen : the 
 others cultivate about two hundred and fifty ammonams b of 
 paddee, which is principally watered by a stream leading from 
 the Kahawatta oyia. This river disembogues into Tengalle 
 Bay at Koedatotte, about two miles to the eastward of the vil- 
 lage. The country round Tengalle, particularly to the north- 
 ward and eastward, is much infested with elephants, and other 
 wild animals, which often destroy the labours of the husband- 
 man, and produce a very sensible effect in retarding the im- 
 provement and extension of agriculture. Indeed this, joined 
 to the want of tanks, or artificial basins for preserving Avater, 
 are the grand obstacles to the settlement of inhabitants and-the 
 cultivation of the Mahagampottoe. Sugar-cane, and Indian 
 corn or maize, called iringee in Cingalese, grow Avith astonish- 
 ing luxuriance; but the husbandman is umvilling to plant or 
 soav Avhat he is almost certain Avill be destroyed. Fruits share 
 the same fate. Should the seed or plant be permitted by the 
 Avild hogs to rear itself above the surface of the earth, it be- 
 comes the immediate prey of elephants or monkies, which, 
 with deer and Aviid buffaloes, infest the country on both banks 
 of the Walleuve, and particularly the province of Mahagam. 
 
 30th August, 1800. At half past nine o'clock in the morn- 
 ing I left Tengalle, and reached the Ranny rest-house at three 
 P. M. the distance being about ten miles. For the first two- 
 
 Am? Parrhas. Par. Measures. Measure. Pints English, 
 
 i 1 = 16 1 = 20 and 1 = 2 
 
TO BATTICALOE. 
 
 85 
 
 thirds of the road the country was tolerably open, but the 
 remaining third the road was skirled with a low close jungle. 
 Large herds of buffaloes were feeding in the open grounds, for- 
 merly employed as paddee fields, but which, from their present 
 appearance, seem to have lain uncultivated for some years, 
 owing, as I was informed, to the neglect of not keeping up the 
 tanks. In one of the herds of buffaloes I counted eighty head 
 of cattle. ' 
 
 The Ranny rest-house is merely a small shed, without walls 
 of any sort, situate on the banks of the Ranny Oyia, on which 
 at this place are both a ford and bridge. The latter is per- 
 fectly in the country style, being merely a few planks loosely 
 and irregularly laid upon slender piles. The Ranny Oyia here 
 is about seven yards broad, and is the same river that runs past 
 the Non Kotleway Coraal. 
 
 About one mile above the rest-house formerly existed a 
 tank called after the rivers name. This tank branched out 
 into three divisions, but at present all its banks are entirely out 
 of repair. I was told that during the Dutch government four 
 hundred and seventy portions of land called accomodesans 
 were granted to as many persons, for the express purpose of 
 keeping in repair the banks of this tank: that these regulations, 
 accomodesans, and their respective proprietors, still exist; but 
 since the accession of the English to the sovereignty of Ceylon, 
 they have been unattended to, and the holders of the ground 
 continue to retain their lands, without fulfilling their part of the 
 contract, which Vaatuhami the Arratchy ascribed to want of 
 
86 
 
 JOURNEY PROM TENGALLE 
 
 energy, or something worse on the part of Tinnecoon Mode- 
 lear, who, he asserted, wilfully overlooked their negligence, in 
 order to prevail upon them occasionally to work for him on his 
 paddee grounds. This tank, when in repair, supplied the vil- 
 lages of Ouderanny and Palleranny, containing at that time 
 four hundred inhabitants, who cultivated in all about one 
 hundred and eighty ammonams of paddee in grounds chiefly 
 belonging to the Company ; but since the tanks have bfeen 
 suffered to go to min, the people have almost all emigrated, so 
 that of the former four hundred, there do not at present remain 
 above ten or fifteen inhabitants. 
 
 Tinnecoon Modelear has got a list of the names of the peo- 
 ple who formerly resided here, holding aecomodesan lands, but 
 who have emigrated in consequence of the neglect of the tanks. 
 The inhabitants asserted, that one hundred men could in ten 
 days completely repair the three branches of the tank; and 
 that an order only was needful, to oblige the aecomodesan 
 holders to come back and perform their sendee. Should such 
 an order be issued and enforced, the tank would soon be re- 
 stored to its pristine state, and its repair would induce the 
 regular and spontaneous return of all the original inhabitants. 
 
 At Koswatta, three miles higher up, the river was also at 
 one time embanked, and supplied a considerable extent of 
 paddee grounds. 
 
 As the Ranny tank lay only a mile from the rest-house, I 
 made an attempt in the morning to see it, but in vain; I found 
 the jungle impenetrable. 
 
TO BATTICALOE. 
 
 87 
 
 31 st August. I set out from Ranny at eight in the morn- 
 ing, and reached the village of Paroallawe, opposite to Wan- 
 deroop, on the banks of the river Walluwe, at a quarter past 
 three P. M. the distance being eleven miles. 
 
 The road this day was very bad, with frequent traces of 
 elephants, and for the first four or five miles surrounded with 
 high thick jungle, when the country opened, and we came in 
 sight of the Kannaek-kettie leway. It is very extensive, but 
 yields little or no salt, as it lies at a considerable distance from 
 the sea. 
 
 A small leway connected with it, lying to the eastward, 
 and nearer the sea-shore, called Tamboeragalle leway, some- 
 times produces salt in extremely dry seasons, but those seldom 
 happen. An extensive space of open ground, containing by 
 estimation fields sufficient to raise two hundred or two hundred 
 and twenty Ammonams of rice, encompasses this leway to the 
 north-west. 
 
 The whole of this space bears evident marks of former cul- 
 tivation, being covered with the remains of the small dykes 
 inclosing the paddee squares, but at present lying entirely 
 waste, excepting a spot capable of producing about fifty am- 
 monams. The natives of Ceylon denominate the extent of 
 cultured grounds by the quantity of paddee which they raise. 
 
 On enquiry of the inhabitants, they said that many years 
 have elapsed since the whole was in cultivation; that it now 
 lies waste for want of water, and that the ground they at pre- 
 sent cultivate is watered by occasional rivulets from the Can- 
 
88 
 
 JOURNEY FROM TENGALLE 
 
 dian hills, the supplies of which depend upon the rain that 
 falls. The name of this village is Pallegamme. It contains 
 about twenty houses, the inhabitants of which are farmers. 
 There are two villages adjoining together, consisting of about 
 thirty houses. They also cultivate fifty ammonams of ground, 
 the water for which is supplied in the same manner as that of 
 Pallegamme, and is of course equally precarious and uncer- 
 tain. The inhabitants, partly farmers, and partly fishermen, 
 are subject to the orders of the arratchy of Ranny. Prom 
 hence I took a circuitous route, in order to see the Kannoe- 
 ketty and Tamboerajally leways already mentioned, and pro- 
 ceeded along the north-east shore of the Kannoeketty. It is 
 overgrown with weeds, and the bottom is' composed of black 
 mud. At mid-day I reached the Tamboerajally leway, and 
 traversed nearly half its shore. The Tamboerajally leway has 
 a clear pebbly bottom, but towards the middle it assumes a 
 darker hue, apparently proceeding from a quantity of black 
 Aveed, which communicates its colour to the water. There was 
 no salt then formed, the leway being quite full of water, owing 
 to the quantity of rain lately fallen. On its banks we saw two 
 elephants, which fled into the woods on our approach. 
 
 At half past twelve we reached Loenewk, a village contain- 
 ing twenty inhabitants, situate at the extreme eastern point of 
 Tamboeragally leway. Here is a small tank supplied by no 
 stream, and entirely dependant on rain. It is seldom sufficient 
 for more than eight ammonams of paddee ground, of which six 
 are at present in cultivation. Its bank is in perfect repair. The 
 
TO B ATTIC ALOE. 
 
 /%r 
 
 89 
 
 water at Loenewe is good, and the soil, judging from the ap- 
 pearance of the crop, and the report of the inhabitants, may 
 be reckoned fertile. 
 
 Leaving Loenewk, we passed over a hill of gentle ascent, 
 perfectly free from jungle, and commanding a most extensive 
 prospect, both by sea and land, the view extending beyond 
 Tengalle on the right, and theWalleuwe on the left. From this 
 eminence the seven hills of Cattergam are also discernible. It 
 is called Usangodda, or the hill of Usang, godda in Cingalese 
 signifying literally a hill. Usangodda appeared to me a choice 
 situation for a fort, there being no high ground sufficiently near 
 to command it. 
 
 Descending from the hill, we passed a fishing village called 
 Vellipattangvella, containing twenty-five inhabitants. From 
 Vellipattangvella our road lay, for about a mile, along the sea- 
 shore, when we reached the mouth of the Walleuwk. 
 
 This river debouches, like several others in Ceylon, by an 
 invisible channel, the water percolating through an immense 
 bank of sand, much higher than the level of the river, which 
 the force of the surf has accumulated at its mouth. From 
 lienee, directing our course along the western bank of the Wal- 
 leuwe, we were led by it to Paroallowe. 
 
 The rest-house here stands on the right bank of the river 
 Walleuwh, in the village of Paroallowe. 
 
 The village, the last in the Geereway Pattoe, contains twenty 
 inhabitants, farmers and fishermen : they cultivate seventy-five 
 ammonams of paddee ground, which is watered by a tank sup- 
 
 VOL. II. ^ 
 
90 
 
 JOURNEY FROM TENGALLE 
 
 plied from the Walleuwe, and called Parmagammamahareva, 
 in English, the old villages great tank. This village is also 
 plhced under the superintendence of the head arratchy of Ran- 
 ny, and two myraals. 
 
 The water of the Walleuwe is excellent, and the surround- 
 ing soil good. It yields from six to seven fold of rice, and 
 twenty-five fold of krokkan. The quantity of krokkan raised 
 annually is various and uncertain, as it pays no tythe to go- 
 vernment, and is cultivated only by the poorest class of people; 
 but from twenty to thirty ammonams may be the medium. 
 
 Krokkan is a small round grain like mustard-seed, and of 
 two sorts, one white, the other dark brown. The brown kind 
 is sown in the months of September and October, or what the 
 inhabitants call the great monsoon; and the white kind in the 
 lesser monsoon, during the months of April and May. They 
 also raise maize, or Indian corn, some fine heads of which were 
 shewn to me. This grain is sown during the months of Sep- 
 tember and October, and is gathered in January. The Cin- 
 galese, as has been already mentioned*, call it iringee, but raise 
 it in very small quantities, and close to their houses, as the 
 elephants, who are particularly fond of it, generally destroy 
 the crop before it is sufficiently ripe for gathering. I was like- 
 wise shewn some very fine sugar-cane, and informed that it 
 grows here with great luxuriance; but the inhabitants are de- 
 terred from planting it by the same cause that prevents their 
 sowing maize, dread of the elephants. 
 
 The adjoining village of Wanderoop, situate upon the op- 
 
TO BATTICALOE. 
 
 91 
 
 I 
 
 posite bank of the Walleuwk, in the Mahagampattoe, contains 
 about thirty-five inhabitants, farmers and fishermen, of whom 
 a great proportion are Chalias. At the back of the village is 
 a large space of open clear ground, bearing evident marks of 
 having once been cultivated, but at present not above twenty 
 ammonams of it are under tillage. They sow about fifteen 
 ammonams in the great monsoon, and ten in the lesser. Their 
 rice-fields are supplied with Avater from the Walleuwh by means 
 of small temporary drains. 
 
 September 1st. Leaving my baggage at Paroallowe, I set 
 out at seven A. M. to examine the Sitracalla leway, distant 
 about four miles from the WalleitAvb. Crossing this river, 1 
 passed the village of Wanderoope on my right, about a mile 
 beyond which lies the small village of Walleuwh-gang, contain- 
 ing ten or tAvelve houses. Betwixt this village and Wande- 
 roope, and extending considerably beyond WalleuAvk-gang, is 
 a large open piece of clear ground, containing by estimation 
 one hundred and eighty ammonams. Of this space hardly any 
 is cultivated, except a small portion, about twenty ammonams, 
 close to Wanderoope, although the whole exhibits traces of 
 former husbandry. This the inhabitants ascribe to a deficiency 
 of water. They sheAved me a tank overgroAvn Avith rushes, of 
 which the figure only remains. This tank covers about tAventy- 
 five ammonams of ground, and Avas, Avhen in repair, supplied 
 with Avater from the Wallemve, by means of a drain dug on 
 purpose; but being rather higher than the common level of the 
 Walleuwk, it could only partake of its stream, Avhen that river 
 
92 
 
 JOURNEY FROM TENGALLE 
 
 was swoln with rain. As its distance from the Walleuwe does 
 not exceed one mile, and it has a drain already traced out, it 
 would be no difficult matter to deepen the present channel, and 
 at the same time to sink the tank also. The idea of this im- 
 provement occurred to me upcfti the spot, and was almost at 
 the same instant suggested by the people themselves. 
 
 They said that the labour of one hundred and fifty men in 
 twenty days would form a tank of twenty-five ammonams, 
 sufficiently deep to receive a constant supply from the Wal- 
 leuwh, and capable of affording water for sixty ammonams of 
 paddee ground. 
 
 The whole that the poor villagers cultivate at present does 
 not exceed seven ammonams, and is barely sufficient for their 
 immediate sustenance. The spot of ground was pointed out in 
 a corner of the former tank. The want of water (proceeding 
 either from the reservoirs being allowed to decay, and the re- 
 pairs of their banks neglected, or from the total want of tanks 
 in favourable situations for the improvement of husbandry) 
 is the universal complaint, and the grand obstacle to the im- 
 provement of this country. It is surprising with what seeming 
 eagerness and pleasure those poor and neglected, but willing 
 and industrious people viewed me while I spoke of their tanks, 
 while I enquired after situations favourable for the construction 
 of new ones, where their benefits would be extensively felt, and 
 easily disseminated, or proposed methods of repairing and im- 
 proving those that already existed. 
 
 Near to Walleuwe-gang lies the village of Medigamme, 
 
TO BATTICALOE. 
 
 93 
 
 containing: eight or nine houses. The inhabitants cultivate 
 about five ammonams of paddee ground, the crop of which 
 they are now employed in reaping. They formerly cultivated 
 a great deal more, their grounds being watered from the Wal- 
 leuwe-gang tank. About a mile beyond Medigamme we passed 
 the village of Pybook, containing twelve houses, and cultivate 
 
 / 
 
 ing thirteen ammonams of paddee ground. At a short distance 
 beyond Pybook, came to the Coda, or lesser Sitracalla. 
 
 This leway is of small extent, and lying at a considerable 
 distance from the sea, produces no salt. About half a mile 
 further brought us to the Sitracalla leway. 
 
 This leway is somewhat of an oval form, and appeared 
 about one mile and a half in circumference. A high sand- 
 bank, about one hundred and thirty fathoms across, divides it 
 from the sea, to the westward of which is a small indent on the 
 coast, forming a sort of bay, but without shelter, called God- 
 dawaay. There is no salt at present formed, the leway being 
 quite full of water. 
 
 Judging by the eye, its surface appeared rather lower than 
 that of the adjoining ocean. It is very shallow, as they all are, 
 the deepest part not exceeding three feet; the bottom is black 
 mud. 
 
 Upon the banks of this leway we saw large herds, both of 
 buffalo s and black cattle, also one elephant: he came out of a 
 thicket close beside us, and began to amuse or cool himself, by- 
 throwing earth over his body with his trunk: but on the tom* 
 toins beating, he retired into the jungle. 
 
94 
 
 JOURNEY FROM TENGALLE 
 
 After finishing the necessary observations on the leway, at 
 least all those that I could make; for the want of proper instru- 
 ments precluded the possibility of ascertaining some of consi- 
 derable importance; I returned to Paroallowe. The observa- 
 tion I particularly allude to, as being unable to make, respects 
 the level of the leway, how far elevated or depressed, above 
 or below the level of the adjoining sea. This it was not in my 
 power to ascertain, being unprovided with a theodolite, or any 
 other instrument proper for taking levels. But as Mr. Jonville, 
 who preceded me only a few days, carried with him the proper 
 apparatus for this purpose, I hope he has accomplished so ma- 
 terial an object. 
 
 September *2d. Resuming my journey at eight this morn- 
 ing, I traversed the same ground as yesterday, until again 
 reaching the Sitracalla, about a mile beyond which I came to 
 a pool of fresh water, called Muredgeewallay, lying close upon 
 the sea-shore. The country appeared tolerably open, and the 
 road good; but I could form no opinion of the soil, as our road 
 lay along the sea-beach. 
 
 At eleven o’clock A. M. a league beyond the Sitracalla, I 
 reached the Caraganare, signifying the long leway, being very 
 narrow in proportion to its length. To the eye it appeared 
 about three miles long by hah a mile broad, stretching nearly 
 in the direction of the sea-shore, from which at the west end it 
 is divided by a narrow bank of sand, not exceeding eighty fa- 
 thoms broad. 
 
 The surface of the Caraganare is evidently considerably 
 
TO B^TTICALOE. 
 
 • 95 
 
 below the level of the sea, the water of which might be con- 
 veyed into it at its west end with great facility, by means of a 
 drain. Its depth in the middle, where deepest, does not ex- 
 ceed three feet. The bottom is black mud where wet, but 
 around its edges the earth assumed a whitish appearance, re- 
 sembling white sand, occasioned by the action of the sun crys- 
 tallizing the saline particles on the surface of the soil. 
 
 Salt in tliis leway is always found at the eastern, seldom at 
 the western side. It produces the worst salt of any of the 
 leways, and is sold at an inferior price. There was no salt 
 then formed, although the leway seemed in a drying state, 
 bearing evident marks of having recently covered more ground, 
 but still retaining too much water to permit the formation of 
 salt. Fifteen days more of dry weather, I was told, would cer- 
 tainly produce salt. 
 
 Along the side of this leway, in places where its direction 
 receded considerably from the shore, were several small pools 
 of fresh water, although the leway itself is perfectly salt. This 
 however is no proof of its not communicating with the sea, 
 which it certainly does, by percolation through the sand, at 
 those places where it approximates nearest. 
 
 At the eastern extremity of the Caraganare lies a small but 
 high promontory, forming the little bay of Hambangtotte, for 
 which we proceeded, after finishing the observations on the 
 leway. We found at anchor in the bay a doney with Jyali 
 Moodily, Malabar interpreter to government, on his way to 
 Batticaloe, and six other doneys hauled up upon the beach. 
 
96 
 
 JOURNEY FROM TENGALLE 
 
 The hill of Hambangtotte, independent of its advantages 
 by lying in the centre and immediate vicinage of almost all the 
 leways, appears an excellent situation for a fort, much prefer- 
 able to Tengalle, there being no adjacent rising grounds to 
 command the works, and very good water being found in its 
 immediate neighbourhood. Within a few hundred yards of the 
 bay lies the Caraganare leway: about one mile further on is 
 the Maha leway; and, at a very little distance beyond it, the 
 Meddi or Kohalangkalla leway. From Hambangtotte-hill the 
 eye is at once gratified with a view of the Sitracalla, the Cara- 
 ganare, the Maha, and the Kohalangkalla leways. 
 
 There being no rest-house, nor other convenience for stop- 
 ping, at Hambangtotte, I proceeded to the nearest shelter 
 pointed out by my guide, passing in the route the Maha le- 
 wa} r , and the Kohalangkalla; on the eastern border of which 
 I observed some salt formed, and the village of Kohalang- 
 kalla, about a mile beyond which we reached the rest-house of 
 Udamally. 
 
 The rest-house derives its name from the neighbouring vil- 
 lage of Udamally, being separated by a tank and, paddee field. 
 Udamally contains seventeen inhabitants, who cultivate twenty- 
 eight ammonams of ground, the water of which is supplied by 
 what was formerly a river, during the existence of the Bada- 
 geerie tank, but now onty an occasional stream flowing through 
 it. Near to the village of Udamally lies another called Palle- 
 malle, containing twenty inhabitants, who cultivate eighteen 
 ammonams of paddee ground, receiving their w r ater from the 
 abovementioned source. 
 
TO BATTICALOB 
 
 97 
 
 \ 
 
 Sept. 3d. I employed this day in receiving information 
 from the inhabitants of Udamally and Kohalangkalla, respect- 
 ing the country, the leways, and the Badageeric tank. 
 
 Sept. 4th. Finding that the Badageerie tank lay about 
 nine or ten miles distant, I dedicated this day to its examina- 
 tion. 
 
 Setting out at six in the morning, I crossed the dry bed of 
 a river close to Udamally, called the Mallallea-leaare, which 
 had its source in the Badageerie tank, when that capacious 
 basin existed, from whence flowing in a serpentine course, and 
 being led off* by various channels, it dispersed its fertility and 
 abundance through a large tract of country. What was not 
 used for the purposes of husbandry, and retained in reservoirs, 
 found its way to the sea. Still, after heavy rains, a good deal 
 of water runs here, and supplies many of the tanks ; but this 
 source is precarious, and the husbandman, who would culti- 
 vate and: prepare his paddee grounds, were he assured of water, 
 is deterred from performing a laborious task, when he is uncer- 
 tain of reaping the fruits of his toil. 
 
 After leaving Udamalty, our road for the first three miles lay 
 in a north-west direction, through a very thick wood, bounding 
 the road on both sides, and frequently interspersed with im- 
 mense masses of bare rock. A thick fleshy triangular-leaved 
 tree, called Dalugis by the natives, was the most common, groov- 
 ing here to a great size. After nearly an hour’s travelling, we 
 emerged from the wood upon a small but beautiful piece of 
 paddee ground, called Kelligamme, of which the crop appeared 
 
 VOL. ti. 
 
 o 
 
98 
 
 JOURNEY PROM TENGALLE 
 
 to have been just gathered ; the soil a fine rich loam. Upon 
 the north-west it was bounded by the dam of a tank, close to 
 which on the right appeared a hut amongst the trees, and be- 
 side it several stacks of paddee, the produce of this spot. 
 
 On reaching the tank, I found it of considerable extent, 
 but dry. Its bank was in good repair. 
 
 From the only inhabitant I saw here, I learned that the hut 
 served merely as a temporary residence for the people who came 
 to cultivate the ground, but that no person was settled there. 
 The tank covers thirty ammonams of ground, and is supplied 
 with water by the Mallalealea-are, an occasional torrent, the 
 dry bed of which we passed, close to the village of Udamally. 
 
 During the months of October, November, and December, 
 the rainy season in this country, there is generally water in the 
 Mallalealea-are, which it receives from the Tummanare, a simi- 
 lar torrent, rising in the Candian hills, and flowing into the 
 Badageerie tank through its bank, as I shall afterwards have 
 occasion to notice. 
 
 This paddee ground, containing forty ammonams, is culti- 
 vated by the villagers of Kellivany, which lies about a mile from 
 Kelligamme, and contains six inhabitants. They also cultivate 
 eight ammonams near to their village. Two miles from Kelli- 
 gamine lay a village called Landejulane, but recently deserted 
 by reason of the tank having gone to ruin. This village, when 
 inhabited, cultivated twenty ammonams of ground, the property 
 of the Company, and their lank covered twelve ammonams. 
 Near to Landejulane lies Juulgamme, inhabited by a solitary 
 
TO BATTICALOE, 
 
 99 
 
 pair, who possess a tank watered in like manner, and cultivate 
 sixteen ammonams of ground. 
 
 The soil here appeared good, but I was told only yielded 
 seven and a half fold. I certainly think it must produce greatly 
 more, but it was from the proprietor I received my informa- 
 tion; and as the ground is parvenny, paying tythe of its pro- 
 duce, perhaps his report of the fertility of the soil was biassed 
 by this consideration. 
 
 Three miles to the eastward of Kelligamme lies Wakkarie, 
 containing six inhabitants. They possess a tank covering eight 
 ammonams, and cultivate seven ammonams of ground. The 
 reason assigned for less ground being cultivated by these six 
 villagers than by the two inhabiting Juulgamme was that the 
 latter availed themselves of the labour of the adjoining villagers 
 of Pallemalle, whilst the others are obliged to depend upon 
 themselves alone. 
 
 Quitting Kelligamme, we crossed its tank, and again en- 
 tered the woods. 
 
 One mile beyond Kelligamme we passed a place consisting 
 of two houses, called Kappoatte, containing five inhabitants, 
 who cultivate seven ammonams of ground : crossed their small 
 tank at present dry, being entirely dependant on rain; and after 
 an hours more travelling through a thick close jungle, reached 
 the rock of Badageerie, forming part of the bank of this cele- 
 brated tank, the object of my present journey. 
 
 This rock, as far as I could judge of its elevation by the eye, 
 appears about four hundred feet in perpendicular height, with 
 
100 
 
 JOURNEY EROM TENGALLE 
 
 the ruins of two Buddha temples upon its summit, and it pos- 
 sesses a spring of very excellent pure water, in a hollow about 
 twenty feet from its base, to which there is a path. I drank of 
 this water, and brought away with me as much as I could con- 
 veniently carry : it was clear, pleasant, and cool. 
 
 Leaving my palanquin at the bottom, I ascended the rock 
 by the only accessible side, and from its summit took the 
 bearings of the centre, and boundaries of the tank before me. 
 1 then descended from this mountain of stone, and walked 
 along the top of the right bank of the tank to its extremity. 
 Having no instrument with me, by which I could exactly ascer- 
 tain the distance, I can only judge of it by estimation, corro- 
 borating the same by the information and opinions of the neigh- 
 bouring inhabitants. From the top of the rock, the centre of 
 the tank bore, by compass, north-west a quarter north: the ex- 
 tremities from south-west by west to north: distance from one 
 extremity to the other, computed about three miles, and fol- 
 lowing the curve of the bank, might probably lengthen the 
 distance one third of a mile more. It is impossible to judge 
 exactly of its breadth, without taking the necessary levels, 
 which in its present state could hardly be done, but I conceive 
 it extends, at least, two miles, perhaps rather more. This how- 
 ever will give a very considerable surface. I had a piece of rope 
 with me, carefully divided into fathoms, by which I was en- 
 abled to ascertain the breadth of the different breaks in the 
 bank, with tolerable precision. But in many places, where 
 the bank is not absolutely broken, it would require to be 
 
TO BATTICALOE. 
 
 101 
 
 heightened, and perhaps strengthened, though in general it 
 carries the appearance of great firmness and solidity. 
 
 The greatest height of the bank is about thirty-five feet, 
 gradually decreasing as it ascends the more elevated ground, 
 and of a proportionable breadth and thickness. I could not 
 discover that this tank was ever supplied by any constant 
 stream, but that it was chiefly dependent upon the torrents 
 produced by rain in the Candian hills. 
 
 These, to judge of them from the appearaned of their pre- 
 sent dry beds, deserve the name of rivers during the rainy 
 season, when they are full, and perfectly capable of supplying 
 a tank twenty limes the size of the Badageerie basin, large as 
 it is. These streams all enter the tank to the north-west. 
 
 Though at present a torrent, called the Tummanare, which 
 ought to enter it at the northern extremity, passes through its 
 bank, and communicates with the only river that flows from 
 the tank called the Mallalealea-are ; this torrent (the Tumma- 
 nare), when the tank was full of water, used to be led past it, 
 around the hill forming its northern boundary, and joined the 
 Mallalealea-are two leagues below. At present it supplies a 
 tank of fifteen ammonams, formed within the grand one, then 
 passes through its former channel round the tank, and re-enters 
 it through a breach in the bank. 
 
 This small tank of fifteen ammonams supplies the paddee 
 fields of the little village of Aliutveva-gamma, or the new tank’s 
 village, containing six inhabitants, who cultivate fourteen am- 
 monams of ground. 
 
102 
 
 JOUltJTEY FROM TENGALLE 
 
 The villagers of Allutveva-gamma pointed out to me its 
 course. Besides those sources of supply just mentioned, I was 
 informed that the tank possessed within itself several springs 
 of water forming pools or wells. Its bottom is overgrown with 
 thick jungle, and large trees, and it was not without consider- 
 able difficulty, and the assistance of twelve pioneers that 1 
 effected my purpose of traversing its banks. 
 
 The traces and dung of elephants were recent through all 
 the road to-day, and in the neighbourhood of the tank, were 
 seen frequent impressions on the sand of an animal’s foot like 
 the tiger’s, which the people with me said it was; and that many 
 of the tigers here were striped, passing their hands round from 
 their backs. They seemed however to dread the elephants 
 most, which are truly the pests of this country; and every 
 means should certainly be used to lessen their numbers, or 
 drive them from the abodes of man. 
 
 Having accomplished my observations upon the tank, I 
 quitted Badageerie at half past three o’clock, and reached 
 Udamally a little before six. 
 
 About mid-way betwixt Udamally and Kalligamme, in a 
 different direction from the road I followed in going to the 
 Bageerie tank, lies Kirriemattpattie, containing twelve inhabi- 
 tants, who possess a tank of ten ammonams, and cultivate thir- 
 teen ammonams of parveny ground. 
 
 Sept. oth. I intended returning to Hambangtotte, in order 
 to survey its bay, and to examine the Kohalangkalla and Maha 
 leways on my road, but was prevented by indisposition, occa- 
 sioned by the severe fatigue of the preceding day. 
 
TO BATTICALOE. 
 
 103 
 
 Sept. 6th. Finding myself better, I left Udamally at seven 
 A. M. for Hambangtotte, passing through the village of Koha- 
 langkalla, containing fifteen inhabitants. They possess a tank 
 covering ten ammonams, and cultivate eight ammonams of 
 paddee ground. Soon after we reached the Kohalangkalla le- 
 way, and traversed its eastern and south-eastern sides, passing 
 betwixt it and the sea. 1 found this leway so far advanced 
 towards a dry state, that a portion of the north-east side was 
 cut off from the main body of the lake, and upon its edges 
 some small spots with salt, but neither in sufficient quantity, 
 nor in a state fit for gathering, being quite wet and unformed, 
 and not exceeding a sixth of an inch in thickness, spread upon 
 the surface of the black mud, which universally composes the 
 bottom of these leways. , 
 
 I dug two feet through this mud, without altering its appear- 
 ance; but understood that at the depth of six or seven feet the 
 mud ceases, and is succeeded by coarse sea gravel. 
 
 The Kohalangkalla, though of great extent, is not very 
 productive. Its average produce may be reckoned at three 
 thousand ammonams yearly, in such years as it produces salt; 
 but from a circumstance I shall soon have occasion to notice, 
 its annual produce may be greatly increased, besides being 
 rendered more sure, perhaps permanent. It stretches along 
 the sea-shore, about two miles in length, but not exceeding 
 three quarters of a mile where broadest, nor falling under a 
 quarter of a mile where narrowest. A high bank of sand covered 
 
 •with jungle divides it from the sea, in general about a fifth or 
 
 \ 
 
 sixth part of a mile in breadth. Arriving at its south-west ex- 
 
104 
 
 JOURNEY FROM TENGALLE 
 
 tremity, I observed a wide drain cut through the bank, and 
 followed its direction. About fifty yards before it reaches the 
 sea, it is joined by another similar drain proceeding from the 
 Maha leway, which lies about half a mile from the Kohalang- 
 kalla. These drains were made by the Dutch; their breadth is 
 considerable, being at least thirty yards from bank to bank, 
 and where they join, cannot be less than forty-five or fifty 
 yards. 
 
 They are at present a little out of order, but could, at a 
 most trifling expence, be completely repaired. 
 
 The drain from the Kohalangkalla is about a fifth of a mile 
 in length, and the one from the Maha leway about a third. In 
 the middle of each drain was water; but a small elevation of the 
 ground at the leways, and likewise close to the beach, separated 
 the water contained in them, both from the leways and the 
 sea. I was informed that they were originally dug by the 
 Dutch, on purpose to carry off the water from the Maha and 
 Kohalangkalla leways, in order to prevent the Candians avail- 
 ing themselves of the salt formed there, and to oblige them to 
 purchase tliaj; article from the Company. This is not inconsist- 
 ent with Dutch policy; but I am rather inclined to believe they 
 must have been originally intended for a different and a double 
 purpose, to admit a certain quantity of water from the sea, and 
 in case of too much rain falling, which always prevents the 
 formation of salt, to carry off the superfluity. Whether this 
 might have been the primary motive for their formation or not, 
 is at present immaterial. They certainly can now be applied 
 to this purpose with great success. 
 
TO B ATTIC ALOE. 
 
 10.5 
 
 The Maha leway is of an oblong or oval form, stretchingalong 
 the back of Ilambantotte bay from N.WJW. to N. E. 2 E. 
 apparently one mile in length by three quarters wide, and di- 
 vided from the sea by a bank not exceeding one hundred and 
 forty fathoms in breadth. It is shallower than any of the others, 
 and also the most productive, annually depositing more salt 
 than thousands can gather and carry away. There is no salt 
 formed in it as yet this season; a circumstance that has not 
 happened for these nine preceding years, and is accounted for 
 by the extraordinary quantity of rain that has fallen during 
 the summer. 
 
 These leways are at present left entirely in the hands of 
 nature, and their produce must of course be precarious and 
 unequal, as depending upon adventitious circumstances; but 
 it must be obvious to any person who views them with an en- 
 quiring eye, that to most of them, and particularly to the 
 Maha and Kolialangkalla, with the assistance of their drains, 
 very little art would be needful to insure a constant, regular, 
 and certain produce. 
 
 Betwixt the Maha and Kohalangkalla leways the ground is 
 free from jungle, and a clear open space encircles each leway 
 to a considerable extent on every side. This I have observed 
 to be the case with all the leways. They are each surrounded 
 with a similar open space, where vegetation seems denied, ex- 
 cept to a kind of short stunted grass, with which the ground is 
 covered. This grass would feed excellent mutton, being strongly 
 impregnated with salt; and from its similarity in appearance to 
 
 p 
 
 VOL. 11. 
 
106 
 
 JOURNEY FROM TENGALLE 
 
 the short benty grass which covers the downs in Europe most 
 favourable for sheep pasture, would, I am convinced, prove ex- 
 cellent for rearing and fattening this useful animal, at present 
 totally unknown in the Mahagampattoe. 
 
 During the journey of to-day 1 could not avoid remarking, 
 from the situation of the leways, and the peculiar features of 
 the surrounding country, which strongly favour the hypothesis, 
 that the sea, at some remote period, must have overflown all 
 this tract of low land; for though the present superincumbent 
 mould is a fine rich soil, yet at a very little depth beneath it 
 we meet w ith a bed of perfect sea sand, which I had an oppor- 
 tunity of remarking, soon after quitting Udamally, at a part of 
 the road where it has been recently cut through a small height. 
 About two feet below the surface lay a compact bed of sea 
 shells, eighteen inches thick, with little or no intermixture of 
 earth, and beneath and around them the debris of fish. 
 
 At noon I reached Hambangtotte. The bay of Hambangtotte 
 is extremely similar to that of Tengalle, forming nearly as deep 
 an indent into the coast, but not extending so far in width. The 
 promontory of Hambangtotte, projecting into the sea in a south 
 south-east direction, forms the south-west side of the bay, from 
 whence the land tends in a semicircular shape to the northw r ard 
 and eastw ard. The distance from Hambangtotte point to the 
 extreme easterly point of the bay is about one mile and a half. 
 All round, excepting at the landing-place, a very heavy surf 
 breaks upon the beach. The landing-place is upon the south- 
 west side of the bay, and though free from surf is very rocky. 
 
TO BATTICALOE. 
 
 107 
 
 These rocks however extend to an inconsiderable distance, 
 when sand commences, and over all the rest of the bay the 
 bottom is composed of a fine black hard sand. The depth of 
 water is most regular, and perfectly free from any danger, visi- 
 ble or concealed. 
 
 I am unable to give the distinguishing sea-marks, whereby 
 to know Hambangtotte bay from a distance, but I think there 
 can be no difficulty. The westernmost of the seven hills of Cat- 
 tergam, as it bears from leeward when opposite the bay, nearly 
 in its centre, and being separated a considerable distance from 
 the other hills, completely insulated from the surrounding land, 
 and of a peculiar form, exhibiting exactly the appearance of a 
 sugar-loaf, must ahvays prove a good leading mark to this har- 
 bour. And as there is no danger to be dreaded, a vessel may 
 stand boldly in, guided by her sounding, and come to an an- 
 chor in five or six fathoms water, over a fine black sandy bottom, 
 about half a mile from the landing-place. A vessel that could 
 ride in four fathoms would be perfectly sheltered in this bay 
 from the west and south-west winds, but exposed to the east 
 and south-east, which occasion a prodigious sea here. During 
 the south-west monsoon, there is considerably less swell in this 
 bay than in the bay of Tengalle. 
 
 Hambangtotte is much frequented during the south-west 
 monsoon by the country domes, the owners of which embrace 
 this period of favourable winds for sailing from the west to the 
 east side of the island, on their little trading voyages. These 
 all touch here for water, which is better than that of Tengalle. 
 
108 
 
 JOURNEY FROM TENGALLE 
 
 The well from whence the water is brought lies about half a- 
 mile from the landing-place; and, what may be esteemed very 
 remarkable, is situate at the back of the sea-beach, betwixt the 
 Caraganare leway and the sea, not five yards from the edge of 
 the former. It would however be found impracticable, I fear, 
 to convey its water b\ f means of aqueducts or drains, there be- 
 ing a considerable extent of high rising ground betwixt it and 
 the landing-place. A narrow rugged pathway leads to the well 
 at present, but is too confined to admit of rolling a cask, the 
 only mode by which a ship could be supplied. The doney 
 people, as I had an opportunity of seeing, transport it in small 
 casks or buckets slung upon a bamboo, and carried on mens 
 shoulders. Should ships have occasion to touch at this port, a 
 jetty extending from the landing-place, a little way beyond the 
 rocks, would be necessary, both to facilitate landing, and to 
 save the boats. 
 
 The port of Ilambangtotte is also the great resort for all the 
 salt doney s, which come here to load that useful article. Should 
 the prosecution and improvement of this branch of revenue 
 (the salt) become an object to government, constructing ware- 
 houses at Hambangtotte, and making it the grand depot, may 
 be found preferable to Tengalle, as it certainly possesses one 
 great local advantage, vicinity to the salt pans, and its harbour 
 is not inferior. 
 
 The soil here is a fine red sand, of which the hill of Hambang- 
 totte is entirely composed, producing great numbers of white 
 ants, and appearing unfit for the purposes of husbandry. The 
 
TO B ATT! C ALOE. 
 
 109 
 
 country round is covered with a low open jungle, reaching quite 
 down lo> the beach. Although this may perhaps detract from 
 the general salubrity of the country, yet the climate appeared 
 to me both healthy and pleasant. 
 
 Sept 7th and 8th, I was employed in surveying and sound- 
 ing the bay of Hambangtotte. 
 
 Sept. 9th. .Leaving Hambangtotte at half past six o'clock 
 this morning, I passed the villages of Kohalangkalla and Udam- 
 ally, and the dry bed of the Malla-lea-lea-are, and soon after 
 came in sight of the Mallela-kallapoor lake, appearing like an 
 immense leway. Its water is brackish, as it communicates with 
 the sea, but it is totally unproductive of salt. Into this lake 
 the Malla-lea-lea-are river empties itself. Upon its banks, 
 close to the sea, lies the fishing village of Allutt-kangalla, con- 
 taining fifteen inhabitants. A little beyond this lake is an- 
 other similar to it, but smaller. Passing these at ten o’clock, I 
 reached the shores of the Boendcle leway. 
 
 This leway is of considerable extent, but, like the Koha- 
 langkalla, very irregular in its shape and direction. At its 
 south-west side, where we first arrived, there is an opening lead- 
 ing towards the sea, about seventy or eighty yards broad. This 
 opening communicates with the leway, but is divided from the 
 sea by a low narrow sand-bank, extending across its mouth, 
 about thirty-five yards broad. The level of th<? leway is evi- 
 dently a considerable degree under that of the sea, water forcing 
 its way in several places through the beach, and forming on the 
 opposite side small streams, running into the large opening or 
 
110 
 
 JOURNEY FROM TENGALLE 
 
 drain just mentioned, which was nearly full of water. I could 
 not learn with certainty whether this drain is natural or arti- 
 ficial. From its great breadth I should suspect the former; but 
 my information rather led me to conclude the latter. At any 
 rate it is made subservient to the production of salt, as when 
 too much water lodges in the leway, which then rises above the 
 level of the sea, it is usual to cut through this bank, in order 
 to carry off the redundance. 
 
 Proceeding from the drain round the seaward side of the 
 leway, along the beach, I found the bank separating it from 
 the sea extended, as I advanced, to a considerable width, the 
 leway receding inland. 
 
 In my progress I passed a well of fresh water betwixt the 
 leway and the sea, some of which I tasted, and found it per- 
 fectly good. 
 
 Upon its north-east side salt was then formed, and several 
 large heaps were already accumulated on its banks by a few 
 Candians, whom I observed collecting it. Embracing the op- 
 portunity of examining this simple process, I stripped off my 
 shoes and stockings, and accompanied them into the leway. 
 
 The salt forms in a crust or cake upon the surface of the 
 mud, of various degrees of thickness, according to the depth of 
 water upon which it happens to form, the same quantity of 
 water invariably supplying an equal proportion of saline par- 
 ticles. And as these leways or salt pans are all very shallow, 
 decreasing or deepening most regularly and gradually, as re- 
 ceding from or approaching, their centres, so the salt forms, 
 
TO B ATTIC ALOE. 
 
 Ill 
 
 and always upon the opposite side of the leway to that from 
 which the wind blows. Near the edges it appears like a thin 
 white film just covering the sand, but increasing in the course 
 of forty or fifty yards distance to the thickness of nearly one 
 inch. Tims far the surface of the salt was perfectly dry, and 
 beautifully white, resembling a sheet of ice covered with snow. 
 Proceeding farther in, I found the water gradually covering 
 the salt to the depth of several inches. Here the bed of salt 
 was thicker, being a full inch, but did not seem so firm, and 
 well formed, as where its surface had become dry. If the wea- 
 ther continued moderate, and free from rain, I was assured 
 that this salt, which, at present, is immersed in water, would 
 become quite dry also, and increase nearly half an inch more 
 in thickness; one inch and a half being the general size of the 
 concrete in all the leways except Pallitupane, where it is some- 
 times got ten inches thick, when they are forced to break the 
 crust with large sticks, or mallets, before it can be got out. 
 The salt forms in a hard, solid, pure body, perfectly free from 
 all extraneous, earthy, or other matter, and is separated from 
 the black mud by a small quantity of water, from a half to a 
 whole inch in depth. The people gather it by passing their 
 hands under the cake of salt, through this water betwixt it and 
 the mud: where the salt was perfectly formed, and its surface 
 dry, they lifted it in large pieces, a foot or more in diameter, 
 clean, pure, beautifully white, and completely free from any 
 intermixture or stain. Farther in, where the water still rested 
 upon the salt, the cake, although thicker, was evidently not 
 
112 
 
 JOURNEY FROM TENGALLE 
 
 formed, at least the adhesion of the salts to each other was 
 much less ; for here they could not, with the greatest care, lift 
 out a piece the breadth of two fingers, the cakes of salt crum- 
 bling to pieces the moment they attempted to move them. 
 Were they to gather a quantity of salt in this state, and throw 
 it into heaps, the greater part of it would dissolve upon the 
 banks before they could remove it, besides the additional la- 
 bour that would be necessary in collecting it. They never 
 therefore take any salt but where its surface has become dry, 
 and when they can remove it at once in large pieces, unless 
 either when rain happens, or they apprehend its approach; in 
 which cases they take out all the salt they possibly can, as 
 rain, if considerable, immediately dissolves whatever salt may 
 be formed in the pans. 
 
 To obviate the effects of the rain as much as possible, a 
 ditch should be dug round the pans, to receive the water that 
 falls upon the surrounding high grounds, and prevent its run- 
 ning into the leways: these ditches should communicate with 
 drains contrived, by means of sluices, to carry off the redun- 
 dant water, or whatever might lodge upon the surface of the 
 salt, supposing salt to be at the time formed in the pan: or, 
 should the levels of the leways prove too low to admit of the 
 assistance of drains, pumps worked by machinery, and receiv- 
 ing their impulse either from the wind or the labour of bul- 
 locks, might be erected, so as to discharge a large quantity of 
 water in a short space of time: the expences attending either 
 of which would, I am convinced, be amply repaid by the 
 
TO B ATTIC ALOE. 
 
 113 
 
 security it would afford to the leaseholders of the salt-pans, 
 thereby inducing a greater rent, should the plan of letting them 
 be adopted; or, if conducted by any other method, would still 
 prove a source of equal benefit. The salt, when gathered, is 
 collected into heaps upon the banks of the leway, and left 
 there to dry, or till it is found convenient to remove it. 
 
 The water, salt, and mud composing these leways is pos- 
 sessed of such an excoriating quality, as to blister and take the 
 skin off the feet and hands of those employed in gathering it, 
 especially the hands, as being more used, and perhaps naturally 
 tenderer, so that three or four days is as much as any man can 
 possibly work at a time. An idea occurred to me to obviate 
 the labour of the hands as far as concerns contact, by substi- 
 tuting the use of a five -pronged instrument made of iron, 
 affixed to a wooden handle like a fork or spade. Each prong 
 ought to be one foot long, three quarters of an inch in breadth, 
 and a fifth or sixth in thickness; the prongs placed equally dis- 
 tant from each other, and one inch and a half asunder. With 
 such an instrument a man could remove a far greater quantity 
 of salt per day than he possibly could by means of his hands, 
 and without injuring them. This would answer when the sur- 
 face of the salt is dry, and it can be lifted out in large cakes: 
 but, should it be necessary to collect it while immersed in water, 
 a common fiat shovel or spade, drilled full of large holes, might 
 Jbe more successfully employed. One man is reckoned able in 
 the present way to gather with his hands two ammonams and 
 
 VOL. II. 
 
 * 
 
114 
 
 JOURNEY FROM TENGALLE 
 
 a half per day. By the method proposed he might surely col- 
 lect at least double that quantity. 
 
 The preservation of the labourer’s legs becomes also an ob- 
 ject worthy of attention; as a man, whilst gathering the salt, 
 sinks through the water and mud from six inches to a foot, but 
 seldom deeper. The cheapest contrivance that occurs to me 
 for protecting the feet and legs is wooden shoes, or jackboots 
 reaching higher than the liquid may be supposed to rise ; but 
 what might perhaps be preferable, and more easily procured, 
 though not so durable, would be pieces of the raw untanned 
 hides of some of the wild buffaloes that roam in thousands round 
 these leways, and a few of which might be easily killed for the 
 sake of their skins. These wrapt round the feet and legs, so as 
 to exclude the water, would effectually secure them from the 
 action of the salts; and a man thus fenced from injury to his 
 legs, and furnished with a pronged shovel, might work for 
 weeks together with ease and safety. But, as I have already 
 had occasion to remark, simple unassisted nature reigns para- 
 mount here; the application of the smallest degree of art to 
 any part of this process being totally unknown. 
 
 Leaving the leway, we passed the village of Boendelea- 
 godda, situate on its banks, and containing fifteen inhabitants; 
 and soon after, the villages of Wellegangodda and Tellula, the 
 former containing twenty-five, the latter eight inhabitants. At 
 half past three P. M. we reached the banks of the Keerindeoye 
 river, at present almost dry ; but, from the great width of its 
 bed. it exhibits the appearance of being a large stream in the 
 
TO BATTICALOE. 
 
 115 
 
 rainy season. The water of this river is excellent, equal to 
 that of the Walleuwh, and its banks are shaded by some of the 
 finest and largest trees I have seen in the Mahagampattoe. It 
 rises in the Candian territory, and passing Cattergam, empties 
 itself into the sea about two miles below the place where we 
 crossed. On its opposite bank stands the rest-house of Ma- 
 gam, divided from the village of the same name by a field of 
 paddee ground, containing thirty-five ammonams, watered by 
 the Keerindeoye, when in cultivation, but having lain waste 
 for these last seven years, in consequence of the desertion of 
 the greater part of the inhabitants, whose motive for emigration 
 is ascribed to the fear of wild beasts, which infest this part of 
 the country to an incredible degree, and increase in number as 
 that of the inhabitants diminishes. 
 
 The village of Magam contains at present twenty inhabi- 
 tants, and is the residence of Raja Puceratnaika, Vidaan ara- 
 atchy of the Mahagampattoe. In the rest-house belonging to 
 it we passed the night. 
 
 Sept. 10th. Quilting Magam at seven o’clock A. M. our 
 road lay through a thick close jungle, and very heavy sand, for 
 one hour and three quarters, when we reached Pallitupane le- 
 way. Proceeding round its south-west side, an opening or 
 drain presented itself, leading from the leway to the sea, exactly 
 similar in every respect to that of Boendele, one end of the 
 drain communicating with the leway, the other divided from 
 the sea by a low narrow bank about thirty yards broad, and 
 through which the sea-water was forcing a passage, and running 
 
1 16 
 
 JOURNEY PROM TENGALLE 
 
 into 'the opening by several streams. All the west and south- 
 west sides of the leway were dry ; but upon the east and south- 
 east sides it contained water, under which a bed of salt was 
 formed. The bottom of this leway is, like all the others, a black 
 mud; but the water covering the salt had a reddish hue, for 
 which I could not account, nor receive any satisfactory reason. 
 
 The salt of the Pallitupane leway is much esteemed, and 
 forms into a concrete of from six to ten inches in thickness, 
 which they are forced to break with large sticks or mallets be- 
 fore it can be gotten out. 
 
 The Pallitupane aratchy, who met me at the leway, went 
 into the water, and, with the assistance of a stick, brought out 
 a piece of salt, measuring full five inches thick. The present 
 season, he observed, promised an abundance of salt in this 
 pan; and if the weather continued free from rain for ten days 
 longer, the salt would be gotten out as many inches thick; and 
 the Avater would in that time be almost all dried up, and the 
 surface become so hard, that an elephant might Avalk over it 
 Avithout breaking the cake of salt. The reason assigned by the 
 aratchy, and certainly the real one, for the salt forming here 
 of a thicker body than in the others, A\*as its greater depth of ' 
 Avater, this leway being about ten feet deep in the middle, 
 whereas none of the others exceed three feet. 
 
 The Pallitupane is of an oblong form, and of considerable 
 extent, appearing about one mile and three quarters long by 
 one broad. On its north-east side lies the Mutucally leAvay, 
 at about fifty yards distance, connected with, and receiving 
 
TO EATTICALOE. 
 
 117 
 
 its water from the Pallitupane. The Mutucally is of a circular 
 shape, and very small. It is at present dry, having this 'season 
 produced salt, which was collected and carried off' by the Can- 
 dians. These people are now flocking down in great numbers 
 to the Pallitupane ; and I observed on its banks large droves of 
 draught bullocks, each supplied with a pair of gunny bags 
 slung across the back, in readiness to convey away the salt. 
 
 Leaving these leways, I reached Pallitupane rest-house at 
 four o’clock P. M. and halted there during the night. Near to 
 the rest-house stands the village of Pallutipane Gangodda, con- 
 taining seventeen inhabitants, who cultivate fifteen ammonams 
 of ground. 
 
 The soil here is a light sand. The water near the village is 
 bad, but at the distance of two miles is a spring of fresh water 
 issuing from a rock, the coolest and finest I have tasted in Cey- 
 lon. In the evening several droves of bullocks, amounting at 
 least to the number of two hundred and fifty, passed the rest- 
 house on their road to the Pallitupane leway, each accoutred, 
 like those above-mentioned, with two gunny bags for transport- 
 in g salt. 
 
 Betwixt Pallitupangodda and the sea lies an open piece of 
 ground, part of which is cultivated, the remainder waste, on 
 account of the want of inhabitants. On the sea-slrore opposite 
 to this place is a turtle fishery, the property of government. It 
 was rented last year for about thirty pounds sterling, but this 
 year for only twenty. The present renter is the collector’s mo* 
 handiram. 
 
118 
 
 JOURNEY FROM TENGALLE 
 
 Sept. 11. I left Pallitupangodda at half past six o’clock, 
 and a little after eight reached the village of Bootava, at pre- 
 sent deserted, the inhabitants having been frightened from their 
 houses by a parly of the Malay regiment, which passed this 
 way about two months ago. 
 
 Our road hitherto lay through a close thick jungle, in which 
 some enormous masses, or rather mountains, of rock rose ab- 
 ruptly, many of them formed of one single stone, some of two 
 piles, one above the other, like Ossa on Pelion. Another 
 hour’s travelling brought us to the bay of Pattanangalla. It 
 appears to be of great extent, and must afford good shelter 
 upon its north-east side during that monsoon, when the ports 
 of Hambangtotte and Tengalle are shut. It lies perfectly open 
 to the south and south-west winds. Close to the beach, on its 
 west side, stands one of those immense single rocks just taken 
 notice of. This rock is perfectly inaccessible seaward, but I 
 was told can be ascended on the opposite side. Its elevation 
 may be from one hundred and fifty to two hundred feet per- 
 pendicular. At the bottom is a well of good water, of which I 
 drank. It does not issue from the rock, but is supplied by a 
 small rivulet flowing all the year round. 
 
 This rock appeared to me an excellent situation for a fort 
 or place of strength, should any future use be made of Patta- 
 nangalla bay. 
 
 Pour miles beyond Pattanangalla the appearance of trees 
 increasing in height and size, as we advanced, bespoke the 
 neighbourhood of a river,' on the banks of which we arrived at 
 
TO BATTICALOE. 
 
 119 
 
 noon, and stopped at a temporary rest-house built upon the 
 opposite side near the small village of Yaale, deriving its name 
 from the river called Yaaleganga. This village contains nine 
 inhabitants, who also fled on the approach of the Malays, but 
 had now returned. They cultivate seven ammonams of paddee 
 ground watered by the Yaaleganga. The climate here is very 
 pleasant, the temperature of the air cool and agreeable; and 
 Yaale, although in the Mahagampattoe, is reckoned healthy 
 even by the natives. The surrounding soil is rich and fruitful; 
 and the water of the Yaaleganga, though not perhaps to be 
 compared with that of the Walleuwe, yet is clear and whole- 
 some. 
 
 The rest-house was overshadowed by two enormous trees, 
 called by the natives koombickgas, which, I believe, are pecu- 
 liar to Ceylon. Some of a still greater magnitude grow upon 
 the banks of the river. I measured one, the trunk of which 
 was a round solid body, and found its dimensions, five feet 
 from the ground, twenty-three feet and a half in circumference. 
 Its height, and the size of its branches, bore an equal propor- 
 tion to this huge trunk. This species of tree is very numerous 
 here. 
 
 Sept. 12th. I set out from Yaale at five o’clock in the 
 morning. For the first two miles the country seemed open and 
 free from jungle; but of this I could onty form a dubious opi- 
 nion, as we travelled by torch-light. When day broke, we 
 entered the jungle, and travelled through it, with very few in- 
 tervals of open ground, until ten, when we halted at a well of 
 
120 
 
 JOURNEY FROM TENGALLE 
 
 fresh water. At eleven we resumed our journey, and a little 
 past two reached the banks of the Koembeckgammeoye river, 
 forming the dividing-line betwixt the districts of Matura and 
 Batticaloe, and the boundary of the Mahagampaltoe. We 
 forded the river, and stopped at Koembeckgamme rest-house 
 on the opposite side. 
 
 This river is of considerable width, broader than either the 
 Keerindeoye or the Yaaleganga, and containing more water. 
 Crossing Koembeckgamme from the Mohagampattoe side cer- 
 tainly impresses a traveller forcibly in favour of Batticaloe. 
 Just emerging from the wild forests of Mahagampattoe, one is 
 suddenly transported into a fine country, carrying every ap- 
 pearance of richness and fertility. Here, for the first time since 
 crossing the Walleuwb, I saw cocoa-nut and plantain trees; 
 for none of these are to be found in the Mahagampattoe, ex- 
 cepting an inconsiderable few on the banks of the Keerindeoye, 
 and these are not permitted by the monkies to bear fruit. Here 
 also the rest-house was larger, although temporary; and the 
 dress and ornaments of the inhabitants were more profuse and 
 richer. The jewel-tax must certainly be productive here; and, 
 if levied upon the number and weight of the ear-rings, would 
 be still more so, their ears being absolutely loaded. 
 
 The village of Koembeckgamme contains seventeen inha- 
 bitants, farmers and fishermen: they cultivate eighteen ammo- 
 nams of ground, ten in one place, and eight in another, watered 
 by the Koembeckgammeoye; but they neither raise crokkan, 
 maize, nor sugar-cane. The soil is rich and fertile, yielding 
 
TO BATTICALOE. 
 
 121 
 
 an increase of elevenfold. The situation of the village is low, 
 but cool and pleasant, being overshaded by some large and 
 lofty trees. The water of Koemheckgammeoye is clear and 
 well-tasted: four miles and a half below the village it empties 
 itself into the sea. 
 
 Sept. I3th. I departed from Koembeckgamme at half past 
 five o’clock A. M. The beginning of the road was good, be- 
 ing through open grounds, but afterwards it became bad and 
 crooked, leading through a thick jungle. 
 
 Half a Dutch mile from Koembeckgamme, we passed Yaa- 
 cala, appearing like a large dry leway, reaching to the sea, from 
 which it seemed separated by a low bar. On enquiry I was 
 informed that two years ago a little salt was produced here, 
 
 t 
 
 but the quantity very trifling, only three or four ammonams; 
 that the bank dividing it from the sea was about forty yards 
 broad, but that the bottom of the leway was higher than the 
 level of the sea. Passing through a piece of thick jungle, and 
 very bad road, we came to another similar opening or leway, 
 called Yeetically, a little beyond which is a pool of fresh water, 
 called Underacalla. We continued to pass similar openings, 
 some containing water, others none, alternately, divided from 
 each other by thick jungle, until within two miles of Chonde- 
 nadam, when the country assumed a better appearance, being a 
 large plain finely wooded, the trees rising singly, or in clumps, 
 free from underwood, giving the idea of an English park of 
 great extent. The soil seemed excellent. At ten o’clock we 
 reached Ohondemadam, where we stopped to breakfast. 
 
 VOL. II. R 
 
122 
 
 JOURNEY FROM TENGALLE 
 
 At Ohondemadam is one of those immense rocks, or moun- 
 tains of stone, several of which we passed upon the road to- 
 day. These masses of stone are all, I believe, held in some 
 sort of religious veneration by the indians; but this at Ohonde- 
 madam is peculiarly sacred, being honoured with the impres- 
 sion of the foot of a god, of which I cannot tell the name, 
 although I climbed to the top of the stone, in order to see it, 
 and to view the surrounding country. I was shewn a large 
 oblong hole half full of water, with many of which this rock 
 abounds, some larger, and of a different form, all of them con- 
 taining water deposited by the rains. About two-thirds up 
 from the base it becomes forked, and on each summit are a 
 few loose stones rudely put together, somewhat in imitation of 
 a house, but greatly too small to admit a person. They are 
 intended to serve as altars, upon which their offerings of rice 
 and flowers are placed. The sacred print of the foot is not how- 
 ever the only religious object of which Ohandemadam boasts. 
 From the top of the stone my attendants pointed out to me on 
 the sea-shore, what they were pleased to call a boat transformed 
 into stone by command of their tutelar deity, to punish the 
 profane crew for presuming to land so near his holy footstep. 
 It is a rock in the form of a boat turned upside down. They 
 also told me that a pagoda of brass once existed at a little dis- 
 tance in the sea, but was now covered by its waves. A pioneer, 
 « 
 
 who accompanied me as an occasional interpreter, and whose 
 ideas were running on war as much as those of the others on 
 religion, explained it to have been, a brazen fort. I had how- 
 
TO BATTICALOE. 
 
 123 
 
 ever heard of this brass pagoda before, and could detect the 
 error. 
 
 At one P. M. we resumed our journey. The road led along 
 the sea-beach for about one mile, when it turned into the coun- 
 try at a large opening, containing a quantity of semi-putrid 
 water, emitting a most noxious smell. This place is called 
 Sillave, and has an adjoining village consisting of three houses. 
 Beyond Sillave we came to a similar but larger opening, called 
 Kunnkalla. The remainder of the road lay through the jungle, 
 until reaching the open ground belonging to the village of Pao- 
 neme, where we slept. Paoneme contains sixty inhabitants, 
 who cultivate seventy-three ammonams of paddee ground. 
 
 All the road from Koembeckgamme to Paoneme is through 
 a fine rich soil, wanting only inhabitants ; but, with these es- 
 sentials to the improvement of a country, it is so poorly sup- 
 plied, that the little village of Sillewe is the only inhabited spot 
 from Ohondemadam to Paoneme, a distance of nine miles. 
 
 Not far from Paoneme lies the small bay of Armogom, 
 where the Dutch used to place a resident. 
 
 Sept. 14th. At six o'clock A. M. we quitted Paoneme, and 
 travelled for some time through a country tolerably open, and 
 well wooded, when we came into a deep sandy road, surrounded 
 with high jungle on both sides, which continued without inter- 
 ruption, until we reached the village of Iretta. This village is 
 placed in a beautiful situation, and surrounded by paddee 
 grounds of great extent, and highly cultivated. Judging by 
 the eye, there appeared at least one hundred and sixty ammo- 
 
124 
 
 JOURNEY FROM TENGALLE 
 
 nams in culture. I was told that the village contained twenty- 
 five inhabitants, but its appearance indicates many more. A 
 very bad road, through an almost continued grove of trees, 
 brought us to a large salt water lake, called Kalapa, divided 
 from the sea by a low sandy beach. We passed it to the right, 
 and a single house at its upper end, containing two inhabitants. 
 Beyond it we crossed some open grounds, and reached the vil- 
 lage of Wettigi welle about ten o’clock, where we halted to re- 
 fresh, and found the water very indifferent. This village con- 
 tains seventeen inhabitants, who cultivate fifty ammonams of 
 paddee ground. At one P. M. we resumed our journey, and 
 for the first six miles travelled through an open country, and 
 good road ; the remainder through a high thick jungle, and 
 very bad road, narrow, crooked, and rocky, continuing until we 
 reached Komarie rest-house at half past four P. M. situate at 
 the edge of the jungle, and fronting an extensive plain. I saw 
 no inhabitants, but observed some houses amongst the trees on 
 the opposite side, which, I was told, were deserted. In the 
 evening several herds of wild cattle, hogs, and deer, wese seen 
 dispersed over the plain; nor was I a little apprehensive, from 
 the solitude of the country, that we might be disturbed by the 
 appearance of a tiger or wild elephant, as was the case at Ham- 
 bangtotte and Magam. 
 
 Sept. 15th. At five o’clock A. M. we recommenced our 
 journey from Komarie, and at nine reached Tirikgowelle. The 
 country through which we passed is well wooded, rather open 
 than otherwise, and the road upon the whole good. The soil 
 
TO BATTICALOE. 
 
 125 
 
 seemed middling. Tirikgowelle is situate upon the sea-shore, 
 and contains nearly forty inhabitants, chiefly religieuse, being 
 employed in the service of a Hindoo pagoda which stands 
 there. 
 
 We rested until three P. M. when we departed for Karick- 
 koddeedeevu, on the road to which we passed two large lakes 
 of salt water, both full: the first is called Pediacalapu, the 
 other Sirelalapu, which is by much the larger, reaching nearly 
 all the way to Karickkoddeedeevu, and abounding with most 
 excellent fish, some of which I ate at Tirikgowelle. 
 
 It lies rather beneath the surface of the sea, for at two dif- 
 ferent places where the beach dividing it from the sea was nar- 
 row, about a mile and a half distant from each other, I observed 
 the sea water forcing its way through the sand-bank, and run- 
 ning into the lake. At the latter place is a ledge of freestone 
 rock lying in a horizontal stratum. This stone seemed perfectly 
 similar, in every respect, to what I have seen of the same spe- " 
 cies in England, extremely hard, where the surface had been 
 for some time exposed to the action of the weather, but, by 
 breaking a little into it, I found it under the surface of the 
 usual softness. Some pieces were in large square blocks, and 
 free from seams, but in general it was seamed, and divisible 
 into thin pieces like slates, and I think might be usefully em- 
 ployed for the same purposes. 
 
 On the upper side of the lake the villages of Peruningaam 
 and Kolarie were pointed out to me, the former containing 
 thirty, the latter seventy inhabitants. At five P. M. we reached 
 
126 
 
 JOURNEY FROM TENGALLE, ScC. 
 
 Karickkoddeedeevu, a large village containing upwards of one 
 hundred houses, and three hundred inhabitants, the one half 
 of them Lubbies, the other Hindoos. 
 
 September l6th. We set out from Karickkoddeedeevu at 
 six o’clock A. M. and reached the village of Wammimadoe at 
 nine, passing several villages both on our right and left, the 
 names and particular descriptions of which I could not ascer- 
 tain, having no interpreter. The country through which we 
 travelled is open, well wooded and watered, and highly culti- 
 vated. At two P. M. we left Wammimadoe. The road was 
 deep sand, the country level, still more open than that seen in 
 the morning, and all cultivated. We passed a number of ham- 
 lets seemingly populous ; at one of them, Koridien, I saw several 
 talipot trees. At a quarter past five P. M. we reached Keetin- 
 gie, situate upon the banks of the Keetinguare. 
 
 Sept. 17th. We quitted Keetingie at six o’clock A. M. and 
 having procured a boat at Kalaarae, proceeded by water to 
 Keerangulum, where we halted during the heat of the day. At 
 two P. M. we resumed our journey from Keerangulum, and the 
 same evening arrived at Batticaloe. 
 
 (Signed) WILLIAM ORR. 
 
 Trincomalle, 
 
 25th September, 1800. 
 
CHAPTER XVIII. 
 
 JOURNEY FROM TRINCOMALLEE TO BATTICALOE, AND FROM THENCE 
 TO MATURA — TAMBLEGAM PAGODA— LAKE OF CANDELYE — MAHA- 
 
 VILLA GANGA — WILD CINNAMON DYKE AT CALLAR — PAGODA 
 
 AT TRICOIL FEMALE DANCERS — OGANDAMALLY ROCK HAM-* 
 
 BANGTOTT. 
 
 The following notes taken on a journey from Trincomallee to 
 Matura, by Thomas Christie, Esq. Inspector of Hospitals in 
 Ceylon, may be depended upon as perfectly authentic; and 
 they, as well as the preceding and following chapters, give a 
 view of those parts of the coast of the island which I never 
 visited. The remarks of travellers made upon the spot, as they 
 are likely to convey clearer ideas of the country, may be more 
 acceptable to the public than a polished description from a 
 person who is a stranger to the scenes. The indulgence which 
 is generally bestowed on productions of this nature, has afforded 
 an inducement to bring forward these volumes; and for the 
 same reason they may be accompanied with original extracts 
 from the journals of persons who have pursued similar tracts. 
 Dr. Christie has travelled a great deal, and has always been in 
 the habit of writing observations on his journies. Many of his 
 manuscripts are more worthy of meeting the public eye than 
 
128 
 
 JOURNEY FROM TRINCOM ALLEE 
 
 the sketch which is here given: and it is to be hoped that, on 
 his return from the East, he may be prevailed upon to present 
 them collectively to the world. 
 
 Notes taken on a Journey from Trincomalle to Matura, 
 performed in April and Map , 1802, bp his Excellencp the Hon. 
 Frederic North, Governor of Ceplon, attended bp Messrs. 
 A r but li not, Atkinson, and Christie. 
 
 April 23, at seven o’clock A. M. we left Trincomalle, accom- 
 panied by Mr. Marshall and Mr. Blakeney, and arrived at Tam- 
 blegam at noon. The greater part of the road was through 
 very thick jungle, except where it skirts the bay of Tamblegam; 
 but on approaching the village bearing that name, the country 
 puts on a cultivated appearance. 
 
 The country round Tamblegam is open, considerably po- 
 pulous, and extremely favourable for the cultivation of rice, 
 the vallies being of a rich soil, and plentifully supplied with 
 water from the lake of Candelye. There is a Hindoo pagoda 
 at Tamblegam of considerable antiquity and note, and a toler- 
 able rest-house for travellers. 
 
 24th, at three o'clock A. M. w r e set out from Tamblegam, 
 and arrived at the lake of Candelye at half past seven A. M. 
 Our road this morning was nearly due north, and through a 
 rather hilly country, completely covered with .jungle and trees, 
 many of which last were of considerable size and beauty. 
 
TO MATURA. 
 
 129 
 
 As we approached the lake, we descended a flight of steps 
 nearly fifteen feet in height, formed by large stones piled in 
 regular order. 
 
 The lake or tank of Candelye is of very great extent, per- 
 haps twenty miles in circumference, situate in a valley, which 
 is nearly surrounded by mountains of considerable height, and 
 where these do not join, the water is confined by a very strong 
 and thick wall, composed of large stones regularly hewn and 
 piled; which shews that not only an immense deal of well di- 
 rected labour must have been employed in this stupendous 
 work, but that the builders must have been well acquainted 
 with the general laws of mechanics. This tank must at one 
 time have been much more considerable than at present, as in 
 many places even the base of the wall is dry, and more elevated 
 than the surface of the lake. The wall may at the highest places 
 be about thirty feet in height, and, I think, about one hundred 
 and fifty in thickness at the base. On the southern side of the 
 lake towards Tamblegam, where there is a considerable length 
 of wall, is the only outlet which we observed. It penetrates at 
 the base of the wall, and although on the inside it occasions no 
 very evident whirlpool, yet the entrance of the channel may be 
 discovered by throwing a piece of wood into the water at this 
 place, which has a slow circular motion. On the outside of the 
 wall the water is observed rushing by two openings, out of a 
 channel made of hewn stone, and carried on a few yards farther 
 than the base of the wall. The force of the water has also 
 broken a passage in the side of this channel, by which nearly 
 
 VOL. II. ' s 
 
130 
 
 FROM TRINCOMALLEE 
 
 as much water escapes as by the regular portals. The whole 
 uniting, form a considerable river, which runs in a rapid cur- 
 rent towards Tamblegam. 
 
 This work bears the marks of great antiquity. The wall in 
 many places is covered with a considerable thickness of soil, 
 out of which are growing trees of a noble and venerable ap- 
 pearance. From a view of the whole it is evident that this 
 work must have been constructed at a time when the natives 
 of Ceylon were more numerous, industrious, and powerful, 
 
 than they are at the present period. 
 
 - \ 
 
 The lake of C'andelye forms the boundaries at this place 
 between the British and Candian territories; the mountains on 
 the north-west being in the Candian country, and those on the 
 south-east in the British. 
 
 On our return to Tamblegam this evening, we were caught 
 by a very severe thunder storm, which did not however extend 
 to the village. 
 
 25th. At five o’clock A. M. we left Tamblegam, and at nine 
 arrived at Ganga choultry. The first part of the road was along 
 the bed of the river, which proceeds from Candelye lake, and 
 waters this part of the country, which is fertile in the produc- 
 tion of rice. The latter part was through a thick jungle, occa- 
 sionally interspersed with pleasant vallies. 
 
 Immediately before we arrived at the choultry, we forded a 
 branch of the Maha- Villa Ganga, a most beautiful river, which 
 at present forms only a shallow stream, but must, from the ex- 
 tent of its bed, and height of the banks, be very broad and 
 deep during the rainy season. 
 
TO MATURA. 
 
 131 
 
 The Maha-Villa Ganga takes its rise in the Candian coun- 
 try, near Adam's Peak, and is the principal river on this side 
 of the island. It is revered by the natives, and its waters are 
 in high estimation amongst them for the preservation of health 
 and the cure of diseases. 
 
 The choultry here is good, and some additional pandals 
 have been erected for the accommodation of the governor. 
 
 At half past one P. M. we left Ganga choultry, and at three 
 passed Malladew, a very pretty village. At five P. M. we ar- 
 rived atTopore, a populous village, where there were good pan- 
 dals erected for our accommodation. All the road this afternoon 
 was through very rich paddee fields, interspersed with beautiful 
 and majestic tamarind trees. This formed a charming scenery, 
 but the road was excessively bad, as we were obliged to travel 
 on the embankments of the paddee fields, which were uneven, 
 and interrupted. 
 
 26th. We this morning visited an extensive tank at Topore, 
 where the water is collected in a valley, and confined by mud- 
 banks, which are in want of repair. At seven o'clock A. M. 
 we left Topore, and at half past ten arrived at Anady ve, a small 
 village where pandals had been erected for the governor. The 
 road this morning was very good, through a beautiful flat coun- 
 try, though but little cultivated. At Anady ve we were met by 
 Lieut. Jewel and Mr. Barclay, the former commandant of Bat- 
 ticaloe, the latter agent of revenue in the province. 
 
 Within two miles of Anadyve is the Wergel Ganga, a broad, 
 deep, and rapid river, to cross which we had only three small 
 
132 
 
 FROM TRINCOMALLEE 
 
 canoes. We were occupied the greater part of the afternoon 
 in conveying the elephants, horses, and baggage across this 
 ferry. The elephants swam over, having a rope attached to 
 them from the opposite shore ; the horses swam alongside of a 
 canoe, which was pulled across by a rope; the baggage and 
 palanquins were paddled across in the same boats. On the 
 north bank of the Wergel there is a pagoda of considerable ex- 
 tent and antiquity, which is much esteemed by the natives. 
 The Cotiar district ending here, Mr. Marshall took leave of 
 us. 
 
 The baggage being ferried over, we left the banks of the 
 Wergel at six o'clock P. M. and arrived at Thadervellie at a 
 quarter past seven. This is a small village, with very few inha- 
 lants. 27th. At six A. M. we left Thadervellie, and at half 
 past eight arrived at the river Panetchen-ganga, which is broad, 
 and at some places deep, but not rapid. We breakfasted on 
 the south bank, where there were bungaloes erected for the 
 governor, but no inhabitants, four vedahs, the only residents at 
 this place, having left it in the night. To cross this broad ferry 
 there were only two canoes, and all our baggage and people 
 did not get across till late in the evening. 
 
 These two rivers, the Wergel and Panatchen, appear to be 
 branches of the Maha-Villa Ganga, and are much larger than 
 the branch we crossed on the 25th. 
 
 The road this morning was very good, through a flat coun- 
 try, on the side of a salt water lake, which communicates with 
 the Panetchen river, and extends nearly to the Wergel. 
 
TO MATUIIA. 
 
 133 
 
 At half past two P. M. we left the banks of the Panetchen, 
 and at five passed Tharramany, which was formerly a Dutch 
 station, but is now deserted. 
 
 At half past seven P. M. we arrived at Comolandvanny, a 
 small village, where bungaloes were erected for us. The road 
 this afternoon was good, but through a country almost entirely 
 covered with thick wood, and without inhabitants. 
 
 28 th. At noon we left Comolandvanny, at two passed 
 the small river of Bappore in a boat, and at three passed a 
 small village called Elleyacoodimara. I observed abundance 
 of cinnamon at this place, which seemed to grow luxuriantly, 
 and was mixed with the same trees and shrubs with which the 
 cinnamon gardens on the other side of the island abound. The 
 soil here is a dry sand, resembling that of the maranda at Co- 
 lumbo; but the climate being very different, in all probability 
 affects the quality of the cinnamon. 
 
 At half past four P. M. we arrived at Chittambycodiaripo, 
 which is a considerable village. The road was good this after- 
 noon; and after passing Bapore (or Nalore) the country was 
 in many places cultivated, and apparently populous. We left 
 Perambottativo on our right; it is situate on the north bank of 
 the Nalore river. This evening we sailed some way up a lake, 
 which bears the name of this place, Chittamby, and extends 
 from hence towards Errore: it also communicates with the Na- 
 lore river, which opens into the sea near Venloos bay. 
 
 29 th. The Governor, accompanied by Mr. Atkinson, left 
 Chittamby early this morning, to proceed to Venloos bay by 
 
134 
 
 PROM TRINCOMALLEE 
 
 the river Nalore. I amused myself in cutting some cinnamon- 
 sticks, and attempting to bark a few of them. In the jungle 
 here, besides the cinnamon, I observed wild orange and lime 
 trees, but without any fruit. At three o’clock P. M. we left 
 Chittamby, arrived at Errore at half past four, and were joined 
 by the Governor from Venloos bay at seven P. M. 
 
 The road from Chittamby to Errore is a deep sand, but 
 leads through a cultivated and populous country. At Errore 
 there is a considerable salt-water lake, which communicates 
 with the Batticalloe river. We passed an unpleasant night at 
 Errore from the swarms of mosquitoes which infested us: these 
 insects seem particularly to abound in the vicinity of salt water 
 lakes, at least we suffered most from them at this place, and at 
 Tamblegam. 30th. At two o’clock A. M. w r e left Errore, and 
 at five A. M. crossed the river to Batticalloe fort. The coun- 
 try between Errore and Batticalloe is said to be populous, and 
 well cultivated. 
 
 From Batticalloe to Matura. 
 
 May 3d. At seven o’clock A. M. we left Batticalloe in a boat, 
 and sailed upon the river, which is very unequal in breadth and 
 depth. The banks are in general well peopled and cultivated. 
 The water as we advanced became fresher, and at the village 
 of Callar is only slightly brackish. We arrived at Callar about 
 seven P. M. at this place a branch of the river runs close to the 
 sea-beach; and during the north-east monsoon the sea here 
 
TO MAT UR A. 
 
 135 
 
 formerly communicated with l he river. To prevent this ad- 
 mixture of the salt water with that of the river, which renders it 
 unfit for the cultivation of paddee, there is a considerable work 
 here, which was first erected by Mr. Burnon, a Dutch resident, 
 but has been lately repaired by order of the English govern- 
 ment: it consists of a strong wall built across the bed of this 
 branch of the river. The wall, which is built of brick and 
 chunam, is in general about five feet in height, the length is 
 1400 paces, or about 1166 yards. This wall, though well-built, 
 does not seem completely to answer the purpose intended, as 
 in some places we observed the waters communicating under 
 the foundation of the wall, most probably by crevices in the 
 rock which composes the bed of the river at this place. 
 
 Near the wall there is another place where the sea commu- 
 nicated with another branch of the river; to obviate which, a 
 dyke of earth and sand has lately been thrown up, the foun- 
 dation of which is composed of ninety-six old canoes, with 
 strong fascines on each side. This dyke is only about two 
 hundred yards in length, and about twelve in breadth at the 
 base. 
 
 After examining these dams, we proceeded to Nayapala- 
 mony, which is about a league distant, and arrived there at ten 
 o’clock P. M. 
 
 Nayapalamony is a considerable and populous village, at 
 which there is a good rest-house, and a large paddee store-room, 
 both erected by Mr. Burnon. 
 
 4th. Our palanquins, which left Batticalloe in boats at the 
 
136 
 
 FROM T.RINCOMALLEE 
 
 same time with ourselves, did not reach Nayapalamony till this 
 morning. 
 
 The Governor and Mr. Atkinson set out after breakfast to 
 revisit the dams at Callar, and rejoined us about noon. 
 
 At two o’clock P. M. we left Nayapalamony, and arrived 
 at Wambamody at four. The road this afternoon was extremely 
 good, through a country highly populous and well cultivated, 
 abounding in extensive rice fields and cocoa-nut groves. The 
 bungaloe erected for the Governor was large and commodious, 
 and the village very populous. 
 
 5th. We left Wambamody at five A. M. to visit some dams 
 on the river Vyriadiar. Our road was chiefly along the bed of 
 a branch of this river, and through a very heavy sand. We 
 arrived at the principal dam about eight A. M. near to which 
 there was a small bungaloe erected for the Governor. This dam 
 is of considerable size and strength, and built of fascines and 
 mud, across the former bed of the river, with a view to direct 
 the waters into a new channel, where they are more required 
 for the purposes of cultivation. On our way we passed several 
 other smaller dams, which serve to divide the stream. The 
 banks of this river are in general covered with a thick impe- 
 netrable jungle. 
 
 At eleven A. M. we left the principal dam, but did not 
 arrive at Carrancottadiva till five P. M. the sand of the river 
 being so hot, that the palanquin -bearers could not travel. 
 As we approached Carrancottadiva, we crossed two other 
 branches of the river, and found the country highly cultivated; 
 
TO MAT UR A. 
 
 137 
 
 the village itself is very considerable, and the rest-bungaloe 
 good. 
 
 The distance between Wambamody and the darn may be 
 seven, and from the dam to Carrancottadiva nine miles: the 
 direct distance between the villages is about eight miles. 
 
 6th. We left Carrancottadiva at five A. M. and arrived at 
 Tricoil at a quarter past seven. The first part of the road this 
 morning was through a flat open country, but little cultivated, 
 and the latter part was along the sea-beach. 
 
 Tricoil is a considerable village, at which there is a Hindoo 
 pagoda of very great antiquity. This pagoda is of considerable 
 size, and built of brick and chunam, but is in bad repair: on 
 the walls there is a great variety of sculpture coarsely executed. 
 It is surrounded with two spacious courts, both of which we 
 walked round, but were denied admittance into the pagoda. 
 On a swamy coach, which is kept in a shed without the courts, 
 there are a great many obscene and unnatural scenes repre- 
 sented by rude carvings in wood. 
 
 W e were amused here by the dancing of the girls belonging 
 to the pagoda, who, though neither young, handsome, nor well 
 dressed, danced, I thought, more in cadence, and moved with 
 greater ease and grace, than any professed dancers I had be- 
 fore seen in India. 
 
 At two o’clock P. M. we left Tricoil, and arrived at Komary 
 at six. On the road this afternoon, which was through jungle 
 interspersed with plains, we saw several herds of hogs, and three 
 or four wild elephants. My horse, which was in front, look 
 
 VOL. II. 
 
 T 
 
138 
 
 FROM TRINCOMALLEE 
 
 fright at the elephants, escaped from his keeper, and was caught 
 with some difficulty. 
 
 We meant to have halted at Komary, where a small bun- 
 galoe was erected, but on our arrival there, finding our baggage 
 had gone on, we were under the necessity of proceeding by the 
 light of chouls [torches made of shrubs] to Wetta welly. The 
 first part of the road to Wetta welly was through a very thick 
 jungle, the latter part through a flat country, in many places 
 marshy. Within two miles of Wetta welly we passed a deep 
 river of fresh water, called Mollyadiar, and arrived at the vil- 
 lage at ten A. M. 
 
 7th. At ten o’clock A.M. we left Wettawelly to visit Ar- 
 ragam, which is on the sea coast, and about two miles distant. 
 There is a small bay here, which is exposed to all the violence 
 of the south-west winds, and in which there was a tremendous 
 surf rolling at the time we visited it. I should apprehend it 
 must also be unsafe in the north-east monsoon. The Dutch 
 had a station here, and there are still the remains of a wretched 
 mud fort or resident’s house at this place. From Arragam we 
 went direct to Panoa, where we arrived at three P. M. The 
 road to this place is chiefly through jungle, interspersed with 
 cultivated plains: the distance between Wettawelly and Panoa 
 is about twelve miles. Panoa is a considerable village, and 
 the country round it abounds with paddee fields. On the road 
 to-day we saw a herd of wild hogs, and an alligator, both of 
 which allowed us to approach very near. 
 
 8th. We left Panoa at five o’clock A. M. and arrived at 
 
TO MATURA. 
 
 139 
 
 Ogandamally at half past seven. The road this morning was 
 through an uncultivated country, the soil sandy, and covered 
 with a rather dwarfish jungle. Ogandamally is a small village 
 situate near the sea-beach, and close to a very large granite 
 rock, which is much venerated by the natives. We ascended 
 the rock, and from thence had a beautiful view of the sea, 
 which forms a considerable bay at this place. On the land side 
 there is nothing to be seen but an immense extent of jungle, 
 the sameness of which is occasionally broken by rising rocks. 
 
 There are several excavations in this rock containing- water; 
 one of them, which is evidently the effect of art, is of a very 
 considerable depth. On the top of the rock there was a small 
 hut made with loose stones, where a brahmin received the alms 
 offered. At noon we left Ogandamally, and arrived at Cooma- 
 canar at four P. M. The road w r as very good, through a country 
 of a light sandy soil, covered with stunted jungle. I rode the 
 greater part of this afternoon; but although the ground was 
 much strewed with elephants’ dung, particularly near small 
 lakes of water, we saw r no elephants, nor any other animals, 
 except some buffaloes, which appeared to be domestic, as they 
 shewed neither fear nor rage at our approach. 
 
 Comary is a small village close to the river Comacan-aur, 
 which is broad, and flows in a rather rapid stream, but is easily 
 fordable. 
 
 9th. At five o’clock A. M. we left Comaryar, and on cross- 
 ing the river entered the Mahagampatloe district. The coun- 
 try through which we passed this morning had nearly the 
 
140 
 
 FROM TRINCOMALLEE 
 
 same appearance as that of yesterday, a light sandy soil, thinly 
 covered with jungle. We passed several small lakes of fresh 
 water, and at eight A. M. stopped near one of them to break- 
 fast. There was formerly a village at this place called Putonah, 
 but of which we saw no remains, and we were only indifferently 
 shaded from the sun by the trees, which were not of any con- 
 siderable size. We proceeded at eleven A. M. but resting up- 
 wards of an hour on the way, we did not arrive at Yaly till half 
 past three P. M. The country between Putanah and Yaly has 
 the same uncultivated barren appearance, but the village of 
 Yaly is situate on a beautiful river, the banks of which are of 
 a considerable height, and delightfully shaded by large spread- 
 ing trees. This village had been lately deserted, and we saw 
 no appearance of houses or cultivation, but-near it met a con- 
 siderable number of buffaloes, which had been left by the late 
 inhabitants. The soil near the river appears remarkably rich, 
 and might no doubt by cultivation be made very productive. 
 A pandal was erected here by people sent from other villages. 
 
 10th. We left Yaly at five A. M. and forded the river, which 
 was about fifty yards broad, and three feet deep. We arrived at 
 Paralapan at half past eight, having passed through a barren 
 country, the jungle being in many places very thick, and the 
 road narrow, we were a good deal incommoded by the branches. 
 Paralapan is a small village with six or eight houses: there are 
 a few paddee fields here, and a considerable number of fine 
 cows, from which we were plentifully supplied with milk. A 
 tolerable bungaloe had been provided for the Governor, and the 
 
TO MATURA. 
 
 141 
 
 water was good. At two P. M. we left Paralapun, and arrived 
 at Mahagam a little before five, the country through which we 
 passed was uncultivated, but the road broad and good. We 
 passed several leways, or natural salt-pans, which have no ap- 
 parent communication with the sea, but produce abundance 
 of excellent salt. As they are situate near the beach, and ap- 
 pear lower than the level of the sea, it seems probable that the 
 salt water filters through the sand, and being exposed in shal- 
 low beds to the heat of the sun, the moisture is dissipated, and 
 the salt gradually forms an incrustation on the top, which, 
 when it has acquired sufficient weight, is precipitated to the 
 
 bottom, and is raked from thence. This at least is the most 
 
 % 
 
 probable idea I could form of what the natives meant by what 
 they called the fallings of the different leways, after which only 
 they collect the salt. c 
 
 On our route to-day we saw a wild elephant, and several 
 buffaloes. The elephant was on the borders of a lake, and 
 although we passed near him, he seemed to take no notice of 
 us, but walked a little way along the edge of the jungle, and 
 then quietly penetrated into it. The buffaloes seemed afraid of 
 us, and most of them ran off on our approach. 
 
 Mahagam is a considerable village, containing a good num- 
 ber of inhabitants, who cultivate paddee, but they complain 
 that for seven years past they have had no crops, owing to the 
 failure of the rains. 
 
 c See the preceding chapter. 
 
142 
 
 FROM TRINCOMALLEE 
 
 11th. At five o’clock A. M. we left Mahagam, soon after 
 which we forded a considerable river, and about three miles 
 from Mahagam we passed another considerable village, where 
 there were a good many houses, cattle, rice fields, and tobacco 
 gardens. At nine A. M. we stopped to breakfast near the vil- 
 lage Oudermally, where there are only a few houses. 
 
 At Oudermally his Excellency was met by Mr. Prendergast, 
 agent of revenue in the Mahagampattoe, and after breakfast 
 he accompanied him to the tank of Badigherry. At noon Mr. 
 iMbuthnot and myself left Oudermally, and at half past one 
 o’clock P. M. arrived at Hambangtotle. The road from Ma- 
 hagam to Hambangtotte is good, and the country rather open 
 near the sea-beach, close to which the road runs, frequently 
 passing salt-pans, or leways, as they are here called. 
 
 At Hambangtotte there is a considerable bay, which is ex- 
 tremely well sheltered by two high points of land on the east 
 and west, which run out to the south-west. On the westward 
 point the bungaloe of the resident is built; and at the bottom of 
 the hill are the houses of the few inhabitants who reside here. 
 Although the surf on the adjoining beach was very high, in 
 consequence of the south-west monsoon, the water in the bay 
 was smooth, and a doney was quietly riding there at anchor. 
 The salt, which is at present the principal produce of this pro- 
 vince, is shipped here. Mr. Prendergast, the present resident, 
 lives in a small bungaloe, but the frame of a much larger one 
 had been erected by Mr.William Orr about a year ago, since 
 which no farther progress has been made in the building. From 
 
TO MATURA. 
 
 143 
 
 this hill we have a view of the surrounding country, which is 
 entiiely covered with jungle, except near the beach, where the 
 salt-pans are situate. The country here abounds in elephants; 
 I saw several browziug this evening from the hills, and it is said 
 they often approach the resident's bungaloe. 
 
 12th. We left Hambangtotte at noon, and arrived at the 
 river Wallaway at three o'clock P. M. The country between 
 this and Hambangtotte is in general rich, and well cultivated, 
 but the road is indifferent, lying chiefly through paddee fields. 
 Walla way is a broad river, which runs in a rapid stream, but 
 is not very deep; we crossed it in boats pushed by men, who 
 were only up to their breasts in water. The Wallaway sepa- 
 rates the Mahagam pattoe from the Geerraway pattoe. On 
 the south bank, where there was a good bungaloe, we were met 
 by the modelear of that district, and a great concourse of the 
 natives. 
 
 13th. We left the banks of the Wallaway at five o'clock 
 P. M. and arrived at Rami at half past eight. The road this 
 morning was chiefly through paddee fields, and the country 
 appeared rich, well cultivated, and populous. At Rami we 
 were met by Mr. Gibson, collector of Matura, and Mr. M. Tol- 
 frey, his assistant. W 7 e left Rami at one P. M. and arrived at 
 Tengalle at half past three P. M. The country through which 
 we passed appeared populous, but was in many places covered 
 with jungle. There is a tolerable bay at Tengalle, and a small 
 fort: the Dutch had a resident here, but the house he occupied 
 is now in ruins. i n > ; , 
 
 ./ 1 t j >•* * * * * - J * T. • 
 
144 
 
 FROM TRINCOMALLEE TO MATURA. 
 
 14th. We left Tengalle at five o’clock A. M. and arrived 
 at Dickwell at eight A. M. We passed this morning through a 
 hilly country chiefly covered with jungle, but in many spots 
 cleared and cultivated. There is a large rest-house at Dickwell, 
 which is at present in bad repair. 
 
 We left Dickwell at eleven A. M. and at three P. M. ar- 
 rived at Dondura. We visited the head, as it is called here, 
 which is a low point of land, and remarkable as being the most 
 southerly part of the island. Near the point there is a Budlia 
 temple of the usual construction, a small Hindoo pagoda, and 
 a lingam. 
 
 Dondura is a very populous village, and must at one time 
 have been a place of great note, and much resorted to, as a great 
 deal of the ground near the point is covered with stone pillars, 
 some of which are upright, and others thrown down. They con- 
 sist of single stones hewn into oblong cubes and octagons. On 
 the furthermost point of rock there are several hewn stones, and 
 one pillar, which when struck gives a remarkable hollow sound. 
 A race of Cingalese kings formerly took their name from this 
 place. After passing nearly an hour at Dondura we proceeded, 
 and arrived at Matura at five P. M. The road from Dickwell 
 is well made, through a beautiful hilly country, full of inhabi- 
 tants. 
 
CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 Extracts from a Journal of a Tour round the Island of Ceylon, 
 by Thomas AnThony Reeder, Esq. late Surgeon of his 
 Majesty's 51st regiment of foot, acting Inspector of Hospitals 
 in Ceylon. 
 
 FROM BATT1CALOE TO TENGALLE. 
 
 10th July, 1801. At half past six o’clock in the evening I left 
 Batticaloe on a raft constructed of two large canoes joined to- 
 gether a considerable distance from each other, across which 
 planks were laid; and a pandal was erected over it, under which 
 my palanquin was placed, and I slept comfortably until we 
 arrived at Nayiapatamoona, a distance of about thirty English 
 miles. This place is delightfully situate at the extremity of the 
 river, which is nearly a mile broad. The air is cool and plea- 
 sant, and the country abounds with game of all kinds. The 
 people here are not only attentive and civil, but they wish to 
 pay adoration to me. They insisted on supplying all my bearers 
 and coolies with rice, and other articles, and would not accept 
 of any money, although I endeavoured to persuade them as 
 much as I could, and told them that I travelled at the expence 
 
 VOL. II. 
 
 u 
 
146 
 
 FROM BATTICALOE 
 
 of government. Every thing here appears in a flourishing state, 
 and more contentment reigns in the countenances of the na- 
 tives than I have seen at any other place on the tour. 
 
 11th. At three o’clock in the afternoon 1 left Nayiapata- 
 moona, and in three hours arrived at Wammiemoodo, a little 
 before sun-set. On the right the country was as finely culti- 
 vated as any in the world, but nothing was to be seen on the 
 left but a dismal jungle, inhabited by wild elephants. These 
 made their appearance in a herd of about forty or fifty; but 
 were very timid, and on the report of my fowling-piece, which 
 I discharged at a peacock, they ran instantly into the woods, 
 crashing and levelling the trees before them. This country 
 must be very valuable, as I speak within bounds when I men- 
 tion, that I saw on the way upwards of three thousand stacks 
 of paddee well arranged, thatched, and much resembling the 
 wheat-stacks in England. The head-man of the village in- 
 formed me that it would be dangerous to travel at night, on 
 account of the great number of elephants which infest the 
 neighbourhood of this place: and I saw his account fully veri- 
 fied, for at the close of the evening three or four herds came 
 out of the jungle into the paddee fields: they were above one 
 hundred in number, and some of them were immensely large. 
 They frequently destroy great quantities of grain. They came 
 within two hundred yards of the house^whcre I hailed. I went 
 out with my servant, and the guard which came from Batticaloe 
 to protect me through the Magampattoe, and we fired several 
 shot at them, but killed none, although it seemed that some of 
 
TO TENGALLE. 
 
 14 ? 
 
 them must have been severely wounded, from the horrible roar- 
 ing which they made after they got into the wood. Besides 
 elephants, there are here many other wild animals, such as buf- 
 faloes, leopards, bears, hogs, &c. The situation of this place is 
 extremely romantic, and very beautiful. 
 
 12th. At six o’clock in the morning, the sun just begin- 
 ning to appear, I left Wammiemoodo, the country between 
 which and Karengekottotivo is charming beyond description. 
 It reminded me of the Capino at Florence, only that in place 
 of pheasants, which are very numerous there, we have here 
 peacocks, and other most beautiful birds crossing us in all di- 
 rections: I walked with my gun for a quarter of an hour, and 
 shot two, the tail of one of which measures one yard and a half 
 in length. Had I been anxious to destroy them, I might with 
 ease have killed fifty ; but they are too valuable, being great 
 enemies to the snakes, which abound in this part of the coun- 
 try: some of these are larger than any I have seen before; but 
 none of dimensions capable of swallowing a tiger, or even a 
 much smaller animal. We crossed a great many paddee fields, 
 but they are not nearly so well cultivated as those about Wam- 
 miemoodo, which must be entirely owing to the indolence of 
 the inhabitants, as the soil seems equally good, and the coun- 
 try is populous. The other parts of the island which I have 
 seen are not to be compared to the country between Batticaloe 
 and this place. The villages are neat and clean, and the peo- 
 ple seem comfortable and happy: they mentioned never having 
 seen a white man pass this road before. I arrived here at half 
 
148 
 
 FROM BATTICALOE 
 
 past nine o’clock A. M. after travelling three hours and a half. 
 The head man of the place came out to meet me with tom 
 toms, &c. &c. and white calico was spread for me to walk 
 upon for about fifty yards to the rest-house, which was com- 
 pletely lined with cloth of a similar nature. Good fowls, milk, 
 fruit, &c. were furnished me, and I enjoyed a pleasant repast, 
 f was treated in the same hospitable manner through the whole 
 of the Batticaloe district; and I shall ever hold these innocent 
 people in the most friendly remembrance. 
 
 At half past two o’clock P. M. I left Karengekottotivo, and 
 arrived at Jackoweil a little before sun-set. All the road is 
 dismally wild, and the country full of elephants. About two 
 miles from Jackoweil a plain was covered with marks of a large 
 herd, which must have been there the preceding night. But of 
 all the wild animals with which this country is molested, the 
 buffaloes appear the most daring. They have often approached 
 very near to my palanquin, apparently with an inclination to 
 attack. I always got out, and stood with the guard ready to 
 fire, if they should attempt to charge. They came running 
 until they got within eight or ten yards of us, and then made a 
 full stop, looked at us for a short time, and then sneaked slowly 
 away. 
 
 13th. At six o’clock A. M. I left Jackoweil, and arrived at 
 Komarie at ten in the forenoon. We passed through three or 
 four frightful woods, and heard the yells of different wild ani- 
 mals, particularly of the jackal. The elephants are not at all 
 troublesome, and march quietly into the jungle to the sound of 
 
TO TENGALLE. 
 
 149 
 
 the tom-toms; but the buffaloes are a much more formidable 
 annoyance to travellers. Many times I thought these animals 
 would have attacked us, although we were fifty in number: 
 had we discovered the least symptoms of fear, they would cer- 
 tainly have advanced. — Komarie is situate in a small dreary 
 plain, everywhere surrounded by terrifying woods, the habita- 
 tions of wild beasts. We saw four chetas, or leopards; but they 
 appeared frightened at the sight of us, and ran into the jungle. 
 There are plenty of wild hogs about this place, one of which 
 we killed. I fired a ball through his body, which wounded him 
 severely, and the palanquin-bearers afterwards killed him with 
 their spears. The flesh was very delicate, and of an excellent 
 flavour. As there is no house or bungaloe at this place, I had 
 a wig-wam made of the boughs of trees, to shelter me from the 
 heat of the sun, which was very intense, and there was not a 
 breath of air. I went with my servant and four sepoys to 
 attack a large buffalo, which approached very near to my wig- 
 wam; but he did not let us get sufficiently close to be sure of 
 killing him, and therefore we did not fire. I left this dismal * 
 place at half past two o’clock in the afternoon, and arrived at 
 Wattiawillie at sun-set. The road runs through jungle, which 
 is full of wild animals, and so thick, that we cannot see two 
 yards into any part of it. The inhabitants of Wattiawillie claim 
 the merit of having cut this road; but it has every appearance 
 of having been formed by the waters in the rainy season taking 
 their course through the heart of the jungle from Wattiawillie 
 to the plain of Komarie. The elephants made their appearance 
 
150 
 
 FROM B ATTIC ALOE 
 
 on the plain in the evening in large herds; and were a khraal 
 erected here, great numbers of them might be caught with 
 every advantage. 
 
 14th. I left Wattiawillie at sun-rise, and arrived at Panoa 
 at ten o’clock A.M. The road to Nawcloor is through jungle 
 still thicker than any of the former; and it was with great dif- 
 ficulty that my palanquin was pushed through it. Nawcloor 
 is a plain well cultivated, and strongly fenced to keep oft the 
 elephants and buffaloes; and the few huts are placed in the 
 centre of a large inclosure. After leaving Nawcloor, we are 
 again embosomed in thick woods. There is here evident ap- 
 pearanee of pains having been taken in cutting down some of 
 the trees to make the road passable. Panoa is situate on a 
 plain surrounded by jungle. Here are some cultivated fields, 
 and several large stacks of paddee. At two o’clock P.M. I left 
 Panoa, and arrived at Ogundemally at half past five. The road 
 was not so wild as the two preceding stages. Previous to our 
 arrival here we travelled along the sea-shore for about half a 
 mile. I have asked at every stage if the inhabitants had ever 
 seen a white man pass this way, and have always been answered 
 in the negative, although it is certain that many have passed 
 through these districts. The people however seemed to evince 
 the truth of what they said; for men, women, and children 
 flocked from all the villages to look at me, with as much curi- 
 osity as I should have gone to see an ourang-outang, or any 
 other more remarkable phenomenon. 
 
 loth. I left Ogundemally at day-break, and reached Mun- 
 
TO TENGALLE. 
 
 lot 
 
 derkolam about eight o'clock A. M. Here is a large tank full 
 of water lilies, and an immense number of wild fowl, particu- 
 larly of teal, which fly in docks of thousands. At one shot I 
 killed ten, which were very fat, and delicious eating. The 
 road to this place is very good, but chiefly through a thick 
 jungle. We crossed three open plains, where we saw several 
 herds of wild buffaloes and deer, but could not get near enough 
 to shoot any of them. Here, as in every field 7 through which 
 we have passed, are many recent marks of elephants. After 
 leaving Munderkolam we passed three other tanks, with abun- 
 dance of wild fowl in them; and a little before ten o’clock A. M. 
 arrived at Koemockenave, which is an excellent place to halt 
 at, and the water is the finest I ever drank. This is the ex- 
 tremity of the Batticaloe district ; and I feel, with the warmest 
 gratitude, the obligations under which I lie to the inhabitants 
 for their hospitality and attention. The head-man of every vil- 
 lage has regularly accompanied me from the one to the other. 
 At this place it is necessary to lay in a stock of rice, and other 
 provisions, as there can be no dependance on getting anything 
 in travelling through the M again pat toe. At half past two 
 
 o’clock P. M. I left Koemockenave, with an intention to reach 
 Iale, if possible, before dark; but we were benighted at Pot- 
 tene, in the centre of a forest full of elephants, buffaloes, and 
 other wild animals. There has formerly been a village at this 
 place, but nothing now remains, unless the skeletons of the 
 huts, which were of essential service in assisting us to make 
 fires to prevent the approach of the Avild inhabitants of the 
 
152 
 
 FROM B ATTIC A LOB 
 
 woods. There is no water to be found at this place, on which 
 account travellers must always carry with them a sufficient 
 quantitj 7 to serve them between Koemockenave and Iale. Ele- 
 
 4 
 
 phants, as well as bears and wild hogs, made their appearance, 
 but did not attempt to approach the fires which were placed 
 all round us. 
 
 l6th. At broad day-light I left this place, and at half past 
 eight o’clock A. M. arrived at lale. The road is tolerably good, 
 through a wild jungle. We saw nothing to attract our notice, 
 but a few herds of wild buffaloes. Here is an excellent fresh 
 water river, but no other accommodation for travellers, un- 
 less a few large trees, which afford a pleasant shade. At one 
 o’clock P. M. I left Iale. Immediately after crossing the river, 
 we entered a thick wood, extending three miles, through which 
 the road is very indifferent. We proceeded about four miles 
 farther in a pretty good path, after which we came into a dreary 
 plain surrounded by gloomy forests, at the skirls of which we 
 saw elephants and bears starting out almost every instant; but 
 they seemed as much afraid of us, as we were of them, and 
 always returned into the jungle as soon as they saw us. One 
 circumstance was very uncomfortable, that in many places no 
 tract of a road could be discovered, and my guides appeared 
 bewildered: for a long time we could not find the proper en- 
 trance into the forest, but at last, after much labour and pains, 
 one of the guides found a path, which he recollected to have 
 formerly travelled. This is very different from any part of the 
 Batticaloe district, where, under the judicious management of 
 
TO TENGALLE. 
 
 1 53 
 
 Mr. Jewell, the road is always passable, and generally in excel- 
 lent order. After quitting the plain, the path was so excessively 
 bad, that we only advanced two miles in two hours ; the con- 
 sequence of which was, that instead of reaching Magamme 
 before dark, we were benighted at Panete Panoa. As soon as 
 I made my appearance there, all the inhabitants ran into the 
 woods, excepting only a poor old woman, who was paying the 
 last tokens of affection to a dying son : he had been labouring 
 under a jungle-fever for twelve months: I felt his pulse, and 
 found that he was not altogether in so desperate a situation as 
 his mother imagined: he swallowed a cup of port wine, which 
 greatly revived him, and I had the satisfaction of seeing him 
 fall into a sound sleep. The delight and gratitude expressed by 
 the poor mother, although but one step removed from a savage, 
 were such as would do honour to the most refined soul. I left 
 with her a bottle of port wine, and half a pound of bark, with 
 directions how to use it. 
 
 l?th. I left Panete Panoa at six o’clock A. M. and reached 
 Magamme at eight. After resting there for half an hour, I 
 continued my journey to Oudemalle. The road is as bad from 
 Parrete Panoa to this place as it was from Iale ; but the vil- 
 lages are better, the inhabitants more civilized, and the coun- 
 try seems as capable of cultivation as the greater part of the 
 Batticaloe district. At four o’clock P. M. I left Oudemalle, 
 and at six P. M. arrived at Hambangtotte. Here there were 
 four invalid soldiers, but no bungaloe to shelter a traveller: one 
 however is at present erecting, and there is here a tolerably 
 
 VOL. 11 . 
 
 x 
 
154 
 
 FROM B ATTIC ALOE. 
 
 good bay, well situated for the exportation of salt, which 
 abounds in this district. 
 
 18th. At six A. M. I left Hambangtotte. The road was, 
 if possible, worse than any I had previously passed through. 
 I was obliged to walk, and it cost my bearers a great deal of 
 labour to get my palanquin to Wallewe, where I found Mr. 
 William Orr, the resident of the Magampattoe. He was en- 
 camped upon the banks of a very beautiful river, and informed 
 me that he had been obliged to change the air of Hambangtotte 
 on account of an intermittent fever with which he had been 
 seized. The road from Hambangtotte to Wallewe was full of 
 elephants, some of which we started almost every minute from 
 the heart of the large brush wood. 
 
 19th. The river of Wallewe rose so high last night, in con- 
 sequence of heavy rain, that it took from half past six to half 
 past ten o’clock this morning to ferry over my people and bag- 
 gage. We had for that purpose only two small rotten canoes, 
 and the whole of my baggage was immersed in water. At half 
 past ten A. M. I left Wallewe, and reached Tengalle at five 
 o’clock P. M. not having halted once all the way. After hav- 
 iny left Wallewe about two miles, we passed a large wood on 
 the right, where there were a great many pelicans. Prom this 
 to Tengalle the road was pretty good, and the greater part of 
 it lay along the sea-shore. The people appeared more civilized 
 than in the Magampattoe, and here they were very attentive. 
 The accommodation for a traveller is very good; but it was 
 with great difficulty I procured rice for my palanquin-bearers 
 and coolies. The head man sent me a present of two fowls, 
 some rice, and a few eggs for myself. 
 
PART SECOND. 
 
 CANDIAN WARFARE. 
 
 A NARRATIVE OF THE CAMPAIGN IN 1803 . 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 VARIOUS COMMUNICATIONS WITH THE GOVERNMENT OF CANDY PRE- 
 VIOUS TO THE WAR — CAUSES OF THE CAMPAIGN IN 1803 — MARCH 
 OF TWO DIVISIONS OF BRITISH TROOPS FROM COLUMEO AND TRIN- 
 COMALLEE TO CANDY. 
 
 Tiie narrative of tlie campaign in Candy claims no attention 
 as a detail of military operations; but it throws some light on 
 the nature of the country through which the various detach- 
 ments had occasion to pass, and it affords an example of the 
 treachery of the Candian court, which ought to be recorded as 
 an instructive guide in future disputes with that power. 
 
 It has always been a favourite object with the British ad- 
 ministration in India to enter into an alliance of friendship with 
 the court of Candy: but the extraordinary jealousy, suspicious 
 conduct, and duplicity of that government, have hitherto pre- 
 vented the accomplishment of so desirable a purpose. 
 
156 
 
 CANDIAN WAR. 
 
 Mr. Pybus was dispatched from the government of Madras 
 as an Ambassador to his Candian Majesty about the year 1763. 
 His reception was as favourable as could have been expected: 
 the courtiers openly declared that they would be happy to enter 
 into terms of mutual friendship and alliance with the English 
 government. But whatever might have been the intentions of 
 our councils at that time, the negotiation dropped, and no 
 arrangement took place in consequence of this embassy. 
 
 In the beginning of the year 1765, the Dutch declared war 
 against the Candians. They had many skirmishes with them in 
 the open field, and at last took possession of the capital, but 
 not without some loss, and considerable opposition. One de- 
 tachment of seven hundred men marched to Hangaramketty, 
 in order to surprise the King ; and another party of three hun- 
 dred and sixty repaired to Mandamanaere, in the province of 
 Matele, where the royal family was concealed. The first party 
 was steadily opposed by the enemy; the second performed a 
 a quiet march; but both failed of getting possession of any 
 valuable prisoner. 
 
 The Dutch, however, elated with their success, thought that 
 the government of the country was entirely under their own 
 power. They had two plans in view ; either totally to annihi- 
 late the authority of the Candian court, or to place a new King 
 upon the throne, who would accede to the terms which they 
 might propose. The person Avhom they thought of inviting to 
 accept of the Candian crown was a Prince of Siam [accounted, 
 according to the ideas of the natives, a legitimate descendant 
 
CANDIAN WAR. 
 
 157 
 
 of the Sun], who had once visited the metropolis of Candy, and 
 been received there with marks of veneration by the King, as 
 well as his subjects. 
 
 The government of Ceylon applied to that of Batavia for a 
 reinforcement of twelve hundred Malay soldiers from that pre- 
 sidency, and one thousand coolies from the coast of Coroman- 
 del. They proposed opening a new campaign in August, by a 
 march through the four corles, and an expedition from Batti- 
 caloe by the way of Bin tan. 
 
 After suffering many hardships, however, they concluded 
 a treaty of peace in 1766 with the reigning power, some arti- 
 cles of which the Dutch did not fulfil. By these articles the 
 Candians were permitted to fish free of duty on the sea-coasts, 
 and had ceded to them three small islands in the river of Bat- 
 ticaloe, which were then in the possession of the Dutch East In- 
 dia Company. On which account, although war was not again 
 publicly declared, they had a number of successive tumults to 
 subdue. 
 
 Early in the year 1782, after the British troops had gained 
 possession of the fort of Trincomallee, a second embassy, from 
 the Madras government to the court of Candy, was undertaken 
 by Mr. Hugh Boyd. 
 
 The Candian nobles declared that they were made ex- 
 tremely happy by the friendly offers of the Madras Governor, 
 and that it was their anxious desire to establish such a con- 
 nexion with the British power as he had proposed : but, in order 
 to render the alliance sufficiently firm and respectable in the 
 
158 
 
 CANDIAN WAR. 
 
 eyes of his Candian Majesty, it was necessary to procure to it 
 the sanction of the King of England. On Mr. Boyd’s remon- 
 strating concerning the inconvenience and inutility of the de- 
 lay that would be occasioned by a compliance with this pro- 
 posal, the courtiers detailed to him the particulars of Mr. 
 Pybus’s negotiation ; that he had made them an offer of the 
 friendship of the English nation, which the King of Candy pro- 
 mised to accept, on terms of mutual advantage; but that he had 
 never since heard any thing more on the subject: that they were 
 soon afterwards engaged in a war with the Dutch, during which 
 they neither received any assistance, nor even communication, 
 from Madras: but that now, when a rupture had broken out 
 between the English and the Dutch governments, the negotia- 
 tions were renewed: these circumstances induced them to think 
 that our attention to their interest was governed only by a re- 
 gard to our own. The King however desired the Ambassador 
 to represent his friendly sentiments in the strongest terms to 
 the government of Madras; but with respect to entering into 
 any permanent treaty, he insisted that the proposal should 
 come directly from his Britannic Majesty. 
 
 This embassy, however, had the good effect of procuring a 
 supply of provisions for the British troops atTrincomallee: but 
 the recapture of that station soon afterwards by the French, 
 prevented for a time any farther communications between the 
 English power and the Candian Monarch. 
 
 After the English had obtained complete possession of the . 
 coasts of Ceylon in the year 179b> they again sent an ambas- 
 
CANDIAN WAR. 159 
 
 sador to the Candian court, and the King of Candy sent an 
 ambassador to Madras. 
 
 The government of Fort St. George, through the medium 
 of Mr. Andrews, offered to the Candians privileges and advan- 
 tages, which they had not quietly enjoyed for the last two hun- 
 dred years. They were to be put in possession of the leways, 
 or salt marshes of Puttam, on the western coast of the island; 
 and to be allowed to employ ten vessels in foreign and domestic 
 commerce, exempt from duty and inspection. But this treaty, 
 although signed and sealed by the Governor of Fort St. George, 
 was rejected by the King of Candy. 
 
 Unfortunately the civil servants of the East India Company, 
 who were employed as collectors on the island, carried with 
 them Malabar agents called dubashes. These men were placed 
 in the situations formerly accupied by the native chiefs, and, 
 having no interest in the welfare of the country, they abused 
 the authority of their masters, and committed numerous acts 
 of injustice and oppression on the helpless Cingalese, who, trust- 
 ing to assistance from the Candian Monarch, rose up in tumul- 
 tuous bodies in several parts of the island, to throw off the gall- 
 ing yoke under which they suffered. 
 
 A few active exertions of military force quelled these dis- 
 turbances; and to insure future tranquillity, the Cingalese mo- 
 delears, with their subaltern officers, were restored to their former 
 influence and prerogatives. 
 
 About the middle of the year 1798 the King of Candy died, 
 and Pelime Talawve, the chief Adigar, or prime minister, hav- 
 
160 
 
 CANDIAN WAR. 
 
 ing obtained the interest of the electors, raised to the throne, to 
 the prejudice of the near relations of the King, a young Mala- 
 bar of inferior extraction, and no talents. The Queen and all 
 the relations of the former King were thrown into prison. The 
 second Adigar, a man of an integrity rare in the court of Candy, 
 was beheaded on account of his attachment to the family of 
 his late sovereign. The upstart w^as raised as a puppet to dazzle 
 the eyes of the vulgar, and Pelime Talawve ruled with absolute 
 sway. 
 
 Some time afterwards, the Queen's brother, Mootto Sawmy, 
 with several others of the royal race, found means to escape from 
 Candy, and solicited the protection of the British government. 
 Mootto Sawmy, who had the best pretensions to the throne, 
 was placed under the charge of Colonel Barbut at Jalfnapatam. 
 The others were kept under the immediate eye of government 
 in Col umbo, so that they had no power to disturb the existing 
 government of Candy. 
 
 In February 1799 Mr. North had his first conference with 
 Pelime Talawve, the chief Adigar. His conversation was at 
 that time veiled in mystery, but the full scope of his villainy 
 was not discovered. In December the same year he desired a 
 second interview, and then made to the Governor a direct re- 
 quest to assist him in taking away the life of the King, and plac- 
 ing himself on the throne, on which conditions he would make 
 the English masters of the country. A proposal so horrible to 
 the feelings of a virtuous mind was rejected with indignation, 
 and the conference immediately ended. 
 
CANDIAN WAR. 
 
 161 
 
 In January 1800 , lie opened his design more fully lo Mr. 
 William Boyd, acting secretary to government, declaring that 
 he had imbibed from his infancy an unconquerable hatred to 
 the royal race of Malabars, the oppressors of his country: that 
 he had raised an ignorant and obscure youth to the throne, in 
 order that he might render him detestable in the eyes of the 
 people, and bring about a revolution, which would end in the 
 extermination of this foreign family, and allow the Candians to 
 be governed by the legitimate natives of the island. 
 
 In many subsequent conversations with various persons em- 
 ployed on the part of the English government, he used every 
 possible argument to incline them to adopt his favourite scheme; 
 but any concurrence with it was uniformly and steadily re- 
 fused. 
 
 Mr. W. Boyd declared to him, that the Governor never 
 would consent to depose a Prince, who had not made any ag- 
 gression against him. The Adigar then asked what would be 
 considered as aggression, and whether an invasion of the Bri- 
 tish territories by the Candians would not come under that 
 description. From these circumstances it appeared that the 
 King’s life was in imminent danger; and that hostilities were 
 to be apprehended on the part of the Candians. In order 
 therefore to elude the arts of the Adigar, by a more perfect 
 knowledge of the court, as well as with the hope of establishing 
 a permanent interest there to the advantage of our political 
 and commercial arrangements, the Governor promised that 
 Major General Macdowall should be sent as an ambassador, 
 
 VOL. II. y 
 
162 
 
 CANDIAN WAR. 
 
 if the consent of the King were previously obtained to his carry- 
 ing with him a sufficient military force to maintain his inde- 
 pendence. It was at the same time proposed that, if the King 
 should approve of it, he should transport his person and his 
 court, for greater safety, into the British territories, there to 
 enjoy all his royal rights, and to depute to Pelime Talawve, the 
 Adigar, the exercise of his power in Candy: also that a British 
 subsidiary force should be maintained there, and a -sufficient 
 indemnification for its expense given by the Candian govern- 
 ment, either in land or produce. But the Ambassador received 
 directions not to consent to any force or threats being used 
 against the King, or any diminution of his real authority pro- 
 posed, if he found it better established, or his life more secure 
 than they were generally thought. 
 
 With these instructions Major General Macdowall repaired 
 as an ambassador to Candy in the month of March 1800 . But 
 th Adigar failed in his engagements, and his influence was not 
 sufficient to carry the objects of his treaty into effect. Only a 
 small escort gained permission to pass the Candian frontiers, 
 and the embassy terminated without any alteration in the con- 
 nection between the two powers. 
 
 Soon afterwards the Dessauve Leuke, one of the nobles of 
 the court, wrote to Columbo that the King of Candy was de- 
 sirous to form a treaty with the English government, similar to 
 that which he had concluded with the Dutch. Several over- 
 tures were made on both sides, through various channels, with- 
 out producing any benefit. The Candians wished to obtain an 
 
CANDIAN WAR. 
 
 163 
 
 establishment on the sea-coast, and the policy of the British 
 government rejected their demand. 
 
 The chief Adigar persevered in duplicity and intrigue, ex- 
 citing his countrymen to make preparations for war, fomenting 
 disturbances in our territories, sending false and ambiguous 
 reports, with a view of compelling the English to take up arms 
 against the Candian King. In fruitless attempts of this nature 
 
 a considerable period of time passed away. 
 
 % 
 
 The Governor made many attempts to open a correspond- 
 ence with the King through a less suspicious channel: but the 
 Dessauve Leuke, and the Chief Priest of Candy, who were 
 favourites of the King, and supposed to be enemies of the 
 Adigar, declined all overtures for that purpose. 
 
 In February 1802, the second Adigar was sent as an am- 
 bassador to Col umbo. Having been brought-over to the in- 
 terest of Pelime Talawve, he renewed the proposal of dethron- 
 ing the King; and that being refused, demanded the cession 
 of the three small islands, which had been granted to them by 
 the Dutch treaty, and the right of employing ten vessels for 
 the purposes of commerce. He was received with the usual 
 honours, and departed without any agreement being con- 
 cluded. 
 
 On the 21st of March, General Macdowall received a letter 
 from the first Adigar, wherein he pointed out the line on which 
 a road might be cut across the country from Columbo to Trin- 
 comallee; but requested that it might be done speedily, so as 
 to be finished without the knowledge of the King. He con- 
 
164 
 
 CANDIAN WAR. 
 
 eluded by requesting that the Governor would have the good- 
 ness to meet him at Citawacca, that he might have an oppor- 
 tunity of vindicating his conduct. The General answered, that 
 the making of the road would not be undertaken without the 
 King’s knowledge, and that the Governor would not meet 
 him, until, by obtaining the King’s consent to the treaty, he 
 had convinced him of his own sincerity, and of his master’s 
 wishes. 
 
 Soon after this communication, the Candians made prepa- 
 rations for war in all quarters, and orders were issued from the 
 court for every man capable of bearing arms to hold himself 
 in readiness to march. From thirty to forty British subjects, 
 who had repaired to Candy in the way of trade, were forcibly 
 detained there, and ill treated by the inhabitants. 
 
 At length, in the month of April, a parly of merchants be- 
 longing to Pullam, subjects of the British government, who had 
 purchased areka-nuts at a fair market in the Candian territories, 
 were despoiled of their property by a person in authority at 
 Cakanacooly. These merchants, who belong to that class of 
 natives commonly called Moormen, had carried on this com- 
 merce from time immemorial, and had always been well re- 
 ceived by the subjects of Candy. On this occasion they lost 
 about the value of 1000/. sterling, principally in the quantity 
 of areka-nuts, and the cattle used for its conveyance. 
 
 The case was seriously and minutely investigated by our 
 government. The merchants had not been guilty of any im- 
 proper conduct: and every circumstance made it evident that 
 
CANDIAN WAR. 
 
 165 
 
 the designing Adigar had been the author of this act of violence 
 and injustice. It was moreover proved, that one of his confi- 
 dential agents conveyed the areka-nuts to Ruanella, and sold 
 them to some traders from Col umbo. 
 
 About the beginning of September, a remonstrance on the 
 part of the British government was forwarded to the court of 
 Candy. A month afterwards an answer was returned, acknow- 
 ledging the justice of the complaint, imputing the blame to the 
 renter of the areka farm, and promising restitution of the de- 
 spoiled property, as soon as the parties should appear to receive 
 it. 
 
 In consequence of this declaration, the Putlam merchants 
 returned to the seven corles: there they remained thirty-five 
 days, travelling from village to village, by direction of the petty 
 chiefs, and were at last dismissed with a promise, 4 that if the 
 4 season should prove favourable, and they would return in 
 4 January, the King would perhaps listen to the request of the 
 4 Governor, and give them a quantity of areka-nuts equal to 
 4 that of which they had been despoiled.’ At the same time a 
 letter was received from the court of Candy, dated 14lh Nov. 
 
 1802, stating that the areka-nuts in question had been sold, 
 but that an equal quantity should be given to the sufferers in 
 the course of one or two months. On the 14th of January, 
 
 1803, a commissioner was sent to Cakanacooly to receive the 
 areka-nuts from the agents of the court of Candy; or, on failure 
 of their being delivered, to demand that the value of them 
 should be paid in money. 
 
166 
 
 CANDIAN CAMPAIGN IN 1803. 
 
 This conciliatory proposition was rejected by the first Adi- 
 gar on the 24th of January 1803; and another attempt was 
 made to delay the necessary reparation of the outrage com- 
 mitted on our people until the season for active operation in 
 the interior country should be past. In the mean time prepa- 
 rations and assemblies of a menacing appearance were formed 
 in various places on the Candian frontier, an act of apparent 
 hostility, which the minister of Candy did not scruple to avow, 
 on pretences wholly unfounded. 
 
 Under these circumstances, our government determined to 
 send troops into the Candian territories, to enforce their claim 
 to full indemnification for the expense occasioned by the' ini- 
 quity of the court of Candy, and to exact sufficient security 
 against the repetition of similar outrages. 
 
 This intention was communicated to the Adigar, and a let- 
 ter at the same time written to the King of Candy, expressing 
 how much pain it gave to our government to be obliged to act 
 hostilely against him, and proposing terms of accommodation, 
 so moderate in their principle, and so beneficial in their object, 
 that it was hoped he would immediately agree to them, as well 
 for the security of his own person and dignity, as for the tran- 
 quillity and happiness of his subjects. 
 
 Every proposition to conciliate matters was either rejected 
 with disdain by the court of Candy, or answered by counter- 
 proposals so absurd in their pretensions, as clearly proved the 
 intention of that court to avoid any stable or reasonable ar- 
 rangement. 
 
CANDIAN CAMPAIGN IN 1803. 
 
 167 
 
 The adopting of hostile measures became at length a mat- 
 ter of unavoidable necessity: but it was hoped that the Candian 
 chieftains would be intimidated with threats; and that the ap- 
 pearance of an army in the field would accomplish those objects 
 of accommodation, for which proposals had so often been made 
 in vain. 
 
 The ambitious spirit of the first Adigar longed for war, 
 hoping that, in the struggles which it would occasion, he might 
 accomplish the nefarious schemes which he had so long medi- 
 tated. Relying on the strength of fastnesses, and the security 
 of retreat, as well as on the depth of his political sagacity, he 
 waited with deliberate patience the issue of a contest, in the 
 prospect of which he saw the balance preponderate in favour 
 of his own aggrandisement. When war was begun, he thought 
 he should easily find an opportunity of dispatching the King; 
 and he trusted to secure his own power, by offering an advan- 
 tageous treaty to the English. This project he nearly avowed 
 to Mr. Boyd in 1800. The fugitive Princes of Candy main- 
 tained before the war, that such was his design: and some 
 relations of the King, who dwelt near Tritchinopoly, were so 
 much persuaded that the Adigar intended to assassinate his 
 Sovereign, that they had long solicited the intercession of the 
 Nabob of Arcot with the British government, to promote at all 
 events the escape of their kinsman from his dominions. The 
 Nabob received their presents, but never forwarded their ap- 
 plication. 
 
 Since the Governor first refused to listen to the treacherous 
 
163 
 
 CANDIAN CAMPAIGN IN 1803. 
 
 plans of the Adigar, he cherished resentment against him in 
 his breast; and, whilst pretending to carry on a fair and open 
 correspondence, he was deeply meditating in what manner he 
 could effect his destruction. The atrocity of his mysterious 
 dealings has now, in a great measure, been exposed to view; 
 and even while contemplating the success of his villany, we 
 have cause to be grateful that the full scope of his diabolical 
 machinations was not accomplished. 
 
 The division of the Ceylon army, under the immediate com- 
 mand of Major General Macdowall, marched from the fort of 
 Columbo at four o’clock P. M. on the 31st of January 1803. 
 Its force consisted of two incomplete companies of the Bengal 
 artillery, with the usual proportion of gun-lascars, two compa- 
 nies of his Majesty’s lpth regiment of foot, the whole of his 
 Majesty’s olst regiment (six hundred and twenty-five strong), 
 one thousand men of his Majesty’s Ceylon native infantry, one 
 company of Malays, and a small corps of pioneers. 
 
 After a march of four miles and a quarter, the division en- 
 camped about sun-set on the banks of the Calany-ganga, with 
 their front towards the river. The ardour of the troops to push 
 forward into the unexplored regions of Candy was as apparent 
 as the unwillingness of the Governor to grant them permission 
 to proceed. 
 
 The streets of the fort, pettah, and suburbs of Columbo, 
 through which they passed, were lined with spectators. The 
 colours of the regiments were displayed. The music of the 
 list’s band animated the march; and the countenances of the 
 
CANDIAN CAMPAIGN IN 1803. 16’9 
 
 soldiers, full of cheerfulness and joy, discovered all the spirit of 
 chosen heroes rushing on to victory. 
 
 The troops halted the following day (the 1st of February), 
 and were inspected by his Excellency the Governor at five 
 o’clock in the evening. The line received him with presented 
 arms, and a salute of nineteen guns was fired from the field- 
 pieces. 
 
 After sun-set, Major General Macdowall and the greater 
 part of the officers dined, in company with the Governor, in 
 the cocoa-nut club bungaloe, situate on an eminence on the 
 banks of the river, about three furlongs from the encampment. 
 The entertainment was given by the town-major, John Wilson, 
 who on this occasion gave a pleasing specimen of his wonted 
 hospitality. Here the inhabitants of Col umbo took leave of 
 their friends, who were going to experience the dangers of the 
 field: the former returned to their houses, and the latter to the 
 camp. 
 
 At day-break the next monfing, the second of February, 
 the army crossed the river in boats, and marched eight miles 
 six furlongs to Iale, half-way to Negombo. 
 
 On the third of February they crossed the river Dandegam 
 in boats, and marched eight miles two furlongs to Karrenagam. 
 On the fourth they proceeded ten miles to Halpy: that day 
 they passed Ketany, where a detachment of the Ceylon native 
 infantry, under Lieutenant Charles Campbell, had been posted 
 for the purpose of assisting the commissary-general in forward- 
 ing stores and provisions to a depot near Katadenia. This de- 
 
 VOL. II. 
 
 z 
 
170 
 
 CANDIAN CAMPAIGN IN 1803 . 
 
 tachment joined the army. On the fifth they moved on nine 
 miles to Allagooly, a pleasant spot situate on the banks of the 
 Kaymelle river, which, after winding farther into the country, 
 receives the name of the Maha Oia. On the sixth, after a 
 march of four miles and one furlong, they arrived at the depot 
 near Katadenia, where they found a party of the Ceylon in- 
 fantry, commanded by Ensign Parker, and Lieutenant Patrick 
 Campbell acting as assistant commissary-general of grain and 
 provisions. At this place they remained four days, during 
 which they built a neat redoubt, and named it Fort Frederic, 
 in honour of the Governor. The command of it was given to 
 Lieutenant Patrick Campbell, who remained there to superin- 
 tend the forwarding of stores to the next depot. The garrison 
 left in it consisted of one hundred sepoys and twelve Europeans, 
 with an assistant surgeon in charge of the hospital. 
 
 On the seventh of February, the line of the Columbo army 
 was put in motion about midnight by a false alarm. Some bul- 
 locks rustling amongst the juifgle had frightened the sentries of 
 the Ceylon infantry; and the commanding officer of the corps 
 embraced the opportunity to make a trial how his } r oung sepoys 
 would behave. The veteran soldiers in the camp thought that 
 the Candians had crossed the river, and in the space of two 
 minutes both officers and men were under arms, ready to give 
 them a warm reception. 
 
 On the fourth of February another division of the army 
 marched from Trincomallee, under the command of Lieutenant 
 Colonel Barbut. It was but little inferior in force to that which 
 
\ 
 
 CANpiAN CAMPAIGN IN 1803. 171 
 
 set out from Colombo, consisting of one company of the Ma- 
 dras artillery, five companies of his Majesty’s 19th regiment of 
 foot, the greater part of the Malay regiment, and a necessary 
 proportion of lascars and pioneers. 
 
 On the sixth of February a small detachment moved from 
 Katadenia into the Candian territories. The inhabitants brought 
 them fowls, eggs, and fruit, for sale, and behaved to them with 
 great civility. 
 
 The whole body of the army was likewise supplied with 
 articles of the above description, and plenty of excellent milk, 
 which they esteemed a still greater luxury. They continued to 
 enjoy good health and high spirits, and lived as well as they 
 could wish. 
 
 Vague reports were daily brought to the camp concerning 
 the Candian forces : little dependence could be placed upon 
 them; but they all agreed that the enemy had retired from the 
 flat country, and taken post in the hills, where their principal 
 resistance would be made. They seemed perfectly convinced 
 that our troops would succeed in taking Candy, but expected 
 either to starve or drown them afterwards. 
 
 Katadenia is an open plain, traversed by a great river called 
 the Maha Oia, and possesses all the advantages of situation 
 requisite for a depot, having a communication with the canal 
 and lake of Negombo, so that stores of all kinds can be for- 
 ■warded to it in large boats. During the time that the army 
 remained there, it was not observed to be an unhealthy place. 
 Two gentlemen, however, who had been sent to survey the 
 
172 CANDIAN CAMPAIGN IN 1803. 
 
 ground about it, on their return to Columbo, were seized with 
 fevers, which in the space of ten days proved fatal. Katade- 
 nia, soon afterwards, gave proofs of a most pestilential air, 
 which seemed to increase with the advance of the season, in- 
 somuch, that at length scarcely any individual escaped the 
 contagion, and many fell a sacrifice to its effects, who had re- 
 mained there only a few hours. 
 
 The interior of the western side of Ceylon has been proved by 
 experience to be much more unhealthy than that on the eastern 
 side. The country through which the march of the troops from 
 Columbo chiefly lay is woody, marshy, and low, until the high 
 mountains of Galle Gederah and Geeriegamme rise abruptly 
 from the plains. The ascent on the other side is more gradual, 
 and the country drier, abounding less in wood, and not lying 
 on the banks of any great river, which, in the interior of this 
 island, and other parts of India, are in general observed to be 
 unhealthy. 
 
 On account of the difficulty of procuring suitable convey- 
 ances, the officers of the Columbo division were flirected to 
 leave as much as possible of their baggage behind them at 
 fort Frederic. The greater part of the tents were likewise left 
 there. The bullocks which had been procured were not trained, 
 and threw their loads ; and the drivers of the elephants were so 
 much frightened, that they turned back on the least symptom 
 of danger. 
 
 ° . 
 
 The roads in many parts of the interior of Ceylon are so 
 
 rugged and steep, that the movement of a wheeled carriage is 
 
CANDIAN CAMPAIGN IN 1803. 
 
 173 
 
 perfectly impracticable: often a bullock cannot pass. The 
 whole baggage of an army must therefore be carried on men’s 
 shoulders; and the loads must be reduced to a moderate size. 
 
 The most convenient method of transporting arrack was 
 found to be in kegs containing eight gallons, or of such a size 
 as could easily be carried by one man. Wine was conveyed in 
 the same manner, which proved more successful than any other 
 that was tried. 
 
 In the Dutch expedition of 1765, the small-pox happening 
 to rage in the army, the followers lied, and the inconvenience 
 of the want of coolies was so much felt, that a distiller was sent 
 from Columbo who made arrack in the camp. As the country 
 abounded in cocoa-nut trees, this plan answered admirably 
 w^ell. 
 
 On the 10th of February the Columbo division of the army 
 left fort Frederic, passed Giroolih, six miles distant, crossed 
 the Maha Oia, which was fordable, entered the Candian terri- 
 tories at eight o’clock in the morning, and encamped without 
 molestation half a mile from Malgamooa, and upwards of seven 
 miles one furlong from Katadenia. 
 
 4 
 
 At this place a detachment of one hundred sepoys was left 
 under the command of Lieutenant Valliere. A breast- work 
 was raised, and a plan laid down to him for his defence. He 
 received a supply of entrenching tools, and other necessaries, 
 so that he could make a firm stand, in case of being attacked; 
 and if a retreat should be necessary, he could accomplish it 
 with little loss, and cross the river in a few minutes. 
 
174 CANDT.AN CAMPAIGN IN 1803. 
 
 The country all around is much freer from wood, and more 
 fertile, than any part of our territories through which the divi- 
 sion passed. 
 
 The frontiers appear to be intentionally neglected, but the 
 interior is highly cultivated, and exhibits striking marks of in- 
 dustry. 
 
 On the 11 th the army marched about five miles, and en- 
 camped at Dambadenia, all well, and in high spirits. Part of 
 the route lay through paddee fields, where the troops had to 
 wade knee-deep in water and mud. All the country through 
 which they passed is extremely fruitful, and very beautiful. 
 The greater part of it is a valley, sown with various kinds of 
 grain, on each side bordered by high lands. 
 
 Several remarkable rocks presented themselves on this march 
 curiously shaped, towering aloft, and richly ornamented with 
 foliage. Only a few birds were seen, and no other description 
 of wild animals, excepting about twenty hares, which were 
 caught by the soldiers. 
 
 Nothing as yet indicated the approach of any hostile na- 
 tives: on the contrary, the head-men declared that they had' 
 received orders from the King to treat the English troops with 
 kindness, and supply them with every accommodation in their 
 power. At the same time the most correct discipline was ob- 
 served in the army, the property of the inhabitants was pro- 
 tected, and no disorder of any kind was allowed. Many of 
 the Candian peasants visited the camp, and likewise several 
 of the priests of Buddha, who were looked upon as spies, but 
 
CANDIAN CAMPAIGN IN 1803. 
 
 175 
 
 civilly permitted to make any observations which they pleased. 
 The priests, as well as the chiefs of the villages, frequently paid 
 their respects to the general, behaving with much obsequious- 
 ness and civility, saying that they wished to do every thing in 
 their power to afford assistance to the troops, and only re- 
 quested protection in return. 
 
 The encampment was formed upon a hill, on which paddee 
 ivas growing, and the prospects around it were highly pic- 
 turesque and delightful. On each side beloAv the camp were 
 pleasant vallies, terminated by ranges of mountains. 
 
 Owing to a deficiency of supplies, chiefly attributed to the 
 death of Mr. Hamilton, collector of the province of Columbo, 
 the army was obliged to halt at this place four days. A small 
 fort was erected, and a detachment of one hundred men left in 
 it under the command of Ensign Grant. 
 
 The troops continued to enjoy good health, although the 
 nature of the climate did not seem salutary. The heat during 
 the day Avas intense and oppressive, and the cold and heavy 
 dew during the night Avere no less unpleasant; Fahrenheit’s 
 thermometer often ranging in the course of tAventy-four hours 
 from 60° to 100°. 
 
 At this place very satisfactory accounts Avere received of the 
 progress of the Trincomallee troops under Colonel Barbut, Avho 
 had hitherto advanced Avithout opposition. 
 
 In a store-house at Dambadenia Avere found eight hundred 
 parrhas of paddee, fifty of salt, and as many of oil, said to 
 belong to the first Adigar. 
 
176 
 
 CANDIAN CAMPAIGN IN 1803. 
 
 The division moved again on the 16th of February about 
 ten miles and a quarter to Kadroo Elbe, where the ground was 
 well adapted for an encampment. This was the most fatiguing 
 march which the troops had yet experienced. The roads were 
 extremely bad, and the guns and baggage were brought for- 
 ward with great difficulty. 
 
 It was intended that a march of the same distance should 
 have been performed on the 17th; but owing to the coolies 
 loaded with baggage having fallen far behind, the troops only 
 advanced six miles, and encamped at Kadroo Koomra, on the 
 banks of the Magroo Oia, which was almost dry. The country 
 still appeared uncommonly beautiful and fertile. In crossing 
 a river this morning, a small picket of Candians, which had 
 been placed there to watch the motions of our troops, was sur- 
 prised, fast asleep, by the advanced guard: they w r ere the first 
 armed people who had been seen, and they fled with great 
 trepidation the moment they were awaked. 
 
 On the 18th the division performed a long and tedious 
 march of fifteen miles and a half, to the west bank of the Dick 
 Oia, in which there was only very shallow water. They arrived 
 at their ground very late in the day, and the baggage did not 
 get up for a long time after, as had been the case for the two 
 preceding days. This day the advance surprised a party of 
 Malays and Candians, wounded one Malay, and took one 
 Candian prisoner. 
 
 On the 19th the troops proceeded five miles and a quarter, 
 in the course of which the advance, under Lieutenant Colonel 
 
CANDIAN CAMPAIGN IN 1803. 
 
 177 
 
 Logan of the 51st regiment, forced the two strong and import- 
 ant posts of Galle Gederah and Geeriegamme. At the former 
 no resistance was made, and, as the enemy fled with precipita- 
 tion, they abandoned three very curious pieces of brass ord- 
 nance, and a great quantity of ammunition. It is a square 
 redoubt, built of hewn stone, ivith two large gateways, situate 
 on the summit of a rocky mountain, and commanding a nar- 
 row pass which leads to it. Fifty sepoys, under Lieutenant 
 Lerride, were left in possession of it. The army moved on 
 towards the latter fortress, which is of a similar construction, 
 and a position of remarkable strength. The appearance of the 
 huge mountain on which it is raised inspires the beholder with 
 astonishment and awe. The post, if defended by skilful sol- 
 diers, would be impregnable. A few men, possessed of com- 
 .mon resolution, might even repulse the assailants by a shower 
 of stones. 
 
 The moment the advance appeared on the first height lead- 
 ing to it, a heavy fire commenced, and continued, though with 
 little effect, until the grenadiers -of the Iflth, under Captain 
 Honner, entered the battery. Our immediate loss on this oc- 
 casion consisted of one serjeant and One private of the above 
 company severely wounded; the serjeant was shot through the 
 lungs, and recovered; the private had his thigh-bone broken, 
 and died soon afterwards. 
 
 From the enemy’s mode of defence it was presumed that 
 they suffered but little : they however carried off all their 
 wounded, and the road was seen stained- with blood for se- 
 veral miles beyond Geeriegamme. 
 
 VOL. II. 
 
 2 A 
 
178 
 
 CANDIAN CAMPAIGN IN 1803. 
 
 The fire from the battery was maintained so long, that it 
 began to be thought that the advance found more than the 
 expected opposition in carrying the post: the whole body of 
 the troops was therefore ordered to ascend the pass. 
 
 It is a kind of natural staircase, winding up the side of the 
 mountain, intersected by a succession of perpendicular rocks, 
 all of which are within range of the Candian battery ; and each 
 side of the path is lined with impervious thickets, from which 
 the enemy might fire, without any danger of being discovered 
 or pursued. The troops advanced with so much rapidity, that 
 they experienced very harassing and toilsome exertion. But 
 the Candians at first fired over their heads, and fear and agita- 
 tion afterwards prevented them from correcting the mistake. 
 
 At the same time that this outpost- was carried, cannonad- 
 ing was heard from the opposite side of Candy, which was 
 supposed to proceed from an engagement between the Trin- 
 comallee detachment and the enemy. 
 
 Although only two men fell by the fire of the enemy, many 
 soon became victims to the labours of this day. It hastened 
 the death of the surgeon of the 51st regiment; and the greater 
 part of the officers and private soldiers felt its effects long 
 after the campaign was over. 
 
 Lieutenant Nixon of the 19th regiment was left with a party 
 to occupy this post. The enemy continued their flight with so 
 much speed, that they made no stop at a third strong battery, 
 erected at about one mile and a half beyond Geeriegamme. 
 
 The same day the division under Colonel Barbut stormed 
 the strong hold of Canavetty, about twenty miles on the other 
 
CANDIAN CAMPAIGN IN 1803. 
 
 179 
 
 side of Candy, and advanced towards the capital. As the de- 
 tachment approached the Maha-villa-ganga, or great Candian 
 river, the opposite bank, the village of Wallapoloa, and neigh- 
 bouring hills, were found occupied by the enemy in force. A 
 few minutes fire from two mortars and one six-pounder obliged 
 them to retire, after expending much of their ammunition with- 
 out effect. The report of the country was, that fifteen Candians 
 were killed, and a great many wounded. This division crossed 
 the river on rafts in the morning of the 20th of February, and 
 took post at the village of Wallapoloa, within one English mile 
 and a half of Candy. 
 
 This day General Macdowall’s division of the army marched 
 seven miles and a half to Kattagostotte, on the banks of the 
 Maha-villa-ganga, nearly three miles from the town of Candy. 
 Three guns were fired as a signal, which had been agreed upon, 
 and was answered by Colonel Barbut. The two detachments 
 had now a full view of their respective encampments, distant 
 from each other two English miles. It is a remarkable circum- 
 stance, that parties, which had set out from points of the coast 
 diametrically opposite, should arrive at the gates of the Candian 
 capital almost at the same moment. Every barrier being sur- 
 mounted, the road was now open, and it only remained for the 
 troops to march into the town. 
 
 During this period some of the sepoys had fallen sick, but 
 the Europeans still continued to enjoy general good health. 
 The coolies behaved wonderfully well, and not one had de- 
 serted. 
 
180 
 
 CANDIAN CAMPAIGN IN 1803. 
 
 The advanced guard of the Columbo division crossed the 
 river on rafts in the afternoon of the same day, with orders to 
 proceed a short way into the country. Having marched one 
 mile and a half, they entered a deserted battery, in which was 
 found only one field piece.' A little farther on they came to 
 another post, which contained two guns, loaded, pointed, and 
 primed. From this place the commanding officer, Major Evans 
 of the 19th regiment, sent off a dispatch to General Macdowall, 
 but still continued his march, and in a very short time found 
 himself in the middle of one of the streets of Candy, and not 
 a living creature to be seen, but a few pariar dogs. The party 
 having thus inadvertently taken possession of the city, was not 
 altogether at ease during the night, being ignorant of the de- 
 signs of the enemy, and whether or not danger was to be ap- 
 prehended in the neighbourhood. 
 
 The division of the army from Columbo had performed a 
 march of one hundred and three miles, and that from Trin- 
 comallee a march of one hundred and forty-two. 
 
 Next morning a strong detachment marched into Candy. 
 It had been completely evacuated the day before by its inha- 
 bitants, and set fire to in many places. The treasure, and all 
 the most valuable articles, had been removed. Part of the 
 palace was consumed by the flames, but man}'' of the apart- 
 ments were found entire, containing some elegant sets of glass 
 and china ware, and a few golden cups adorned with silver 
 philagree. The walls of one room were completely covered with 
 pier glasses, about seven feet high, and four feet broad. An- 
 
CANDIAN CAMPAIGN IN 1803 . 
 
 181 - 
 
 other room, supposed to be the place of private devotion, con- 
 tained one gigantic brass image of Buddha in a sitting posture, 
 and two smaller of a similar form. The governor’s state-coach, 
 which had been presented to the King, was almost destroyed 
 by the fire. The palace is an immense square of irregular 
 buildings, formed of stone and wood, plastered over with chu- 
 nam, a fine white cement made of calcined shells: it had been 
 greatly adorned and enriched since General Macdowall was 
 there on his embassy in 1800 , and had lately undergone a re- 
 pair. Several new buildings on one side of the square were 
 about half finished. It contains two Buddha temples, one 
 Hindoo pagoda, a cemetery, and an immense variety of arse- 
 nals and sto^e-houses. On the front, which looks down the 
 principal street, there is a covered gallery, from which the 
 Monarch views the feats performed by elephants, and other 
 spectacles of public amusement. Amongst some of the stores 
 was found a profusion of soft paper, made in the country of 
 the bark of trees: the sheets were rolled up, and some of them 
 measured twenty feet in length. There was likewise amongst 
 the spoil a plentiful collection of bows, arrows, and walking- 
 sticks, exquisitely well painted, displaying a richness of varnish, 
 colouring, and ornament, which probably cannot be equalled 
 in Europe. 
 
 The town of Candy is situate in a plain, surrounded on 
 every side by mountains almost entirely covered with trees, 
 brushwood, and jungle. It consists of one principal street, 
 two miles in length, terminated at the upper end by the palace. 
 
182 
 
 CANDIAN CAMPAIGN IN 1803. 
 
 and a great number of lanes branching off at right angles on 
 both sides. It contains no buildings of any consequence, ex- 
 cept the palace, and a few temples dedicated to Buddha, the 
 appearance of which is more respectable than our countrymen 
 had been led to imagine. The streets in general are dirty, 
 the houses poor and mean, built chiefly of mud, thatched with 
 straw and leaves, and having miserably small apertures, instead 
 of windows. They are all raised on terraces about five feet 
 above the level of the ground, and there are stone steps leading 
 up to every door. A few of the houses at the upper end of the 
 great street are tiled and white- washed. 
 
 The country all the way from Geeriegamme to Candy is 
 extremely beautiful, and perhaps in a higher state of cultiva- 
 tion than any part of India. Many of the hills are cleared to 
 their summits, formed into ridges, and sown with grain. The 
 fields below are terraced in the most regular manner on differ- 
 ent levels, so that not a drop of water can be lost. The num- 
 ber and extent of the villages around the capital indicate a 
 great degree of population, but all these at present are deserted. 
 The vallies are ornamented with groves of cocoa-nut, areka, 
 jack, orange, lime, pumplemose, and plantain trees. The King's 
 garden was richly stored with vegetables, amongst which was 
 abundance of excellent cabbage; and the river swarmed with 
 fish, which the Candians never molest, it being one principle 
 of their religion not to deprive any animal of life. 
 
 The grand arsenal was blown up before the Candians eva- 
 cuated the town, but a large quantity of ammunition, brass 
 
CANDIAN CAMPAIGN IN 1803. 
 
 183 
 
 cannon, and smaller arms, was found in various places; and 
 some pits were discovered filled with copper coins. A few 
 horses likewise, and three beautiful milk white deer were cap- 
 tured, the latter of which were esteemed a singular curiosity. 
 
 There are many beautiful and charming rides around the 
 town. The climate was experienced to be delightful, and con- 
 sidered as salubrious; but the variation of temperature between 
 the night and day often ranged from 69° to 9o° of Fahrenheit’s 
 thermometer. 
 
CHAPTER II. 
 
 ARRIVAL OF PRINCE MOOTTO SAWMY IN CANDY ARTICLES OF CON- 
 
 VENTION BETWEEN HIM AND THE BRITISH GOVERNMENT — EXPE- 
 DITION FROM CANDY TO HANGARAMKETTY RETURN OF PART 
 
 OF THE TROOPS TO COLUMBO— SUBSEQUENT MORTALITY — CONFER- 
 ENCE BETWEEN THE GOVERNOR AND ADIGAR AT DAM BADEN I A. 
 
 On the 20th of February Mr. North received at Columbo a 
 letter from the court of Candy, in answer to one which he had 
 written towards the end of January. This answer contained 
 only a few words, which were highly disrespectful. 
 
 At the same time advice arrived from Colonel Barbut, 
 stating, that the inhabitants of the northern and eastern fron- 
 tiers of Candy expressed a strong desire to receive the Prince 
 Mootto Sawmy as their King: and their disappointment at his 
 not being with the army was so great, that he had since ven- 
 tured to bring him to the lake Minnery, in the Candian terri- 
 tories, that he might be nearer at hand, if government should 
 think proper to support him, which appeared to the Colonel 
 highly advisable. This Prince had often demonstrated his 
 claims to the throne, and the interest which he possessed amongst 
 the people of the country; it was therefore determined to send 
 for him, and to proclaim him the Sovereign of Candy, in ex- 
 pectation that, through his influence, the army would be sup- 
 
CANDIAN CAMPAIGN IN 1803. 
 
 185 
 
 plied with provisions, and matters arranged in the territories 
 without bloodshed, agreeably to the wishes of our govern- 
 ment. 
 
 Accordingly, on the 22d of February, Colonel Barbut was 
 
 i 
 
 detached with his Majesty's Malay regiment, and two three- 
 pounders of the Bengal artillery, to meet this scyon of the royal 
 race, and escort his Highness to Candy. 
 
 On the 24th and 25th of February, the 19 th and 51st regi- 
 ments quitted their respective camps, and marched into the 
 town. 
 
 On the 25th, Captain Buchan of the Ceylon infantry marched 
 with a strong party to convoy coolies laden with provisions from 
 Dambadenia. None of the natives ventured to approach the 
 capital; and it was not without difficulty and danger that for- 
 aging parties obtained now and then small supplies: they were 
 often fired upon from unseen quarters, and a few men were 
 daily wounded. 
 
 From the commencement of the campaign Columbo was 
 almost quite drained of troops. The strength of the garrison 
 consisted of only two companies of his Majesty's 65th regiment, 
 under Lieutenant Colonel Maddison, stationed in the fort, and 
 about three hundred sepoys of the Ceylon infantry, cantoned 
 in the vicinity. 
 
 A corps of militia, however, was embodied for the protec- 
 tion of the town and district. It was composed of all persons 
 employed in the civil service of government, all burghers, and 
 all unregistered Europeans, with the exception of the civil and 
 
 VOL. II. 2 b 
 
186 
 
 CANDIAN CAMPAIGN IN 1803. 
 
 military servants of the late Dutch government, who came 
 under the denomination of prisoners of war. But the greater 
 part of this militia consisted of the mixed race called half-cast, 
 who, having neither inclination nor ability to become good sol- 
 
 i 
 
 diers, were only looked upon as a flimsy defence. 
 
 A party of three hundred men of the 19 th regiment marched 
 from Candy on the second of March, to meet the detachment 
 under Colonel Barbut. It was reported that the Adigar medi- 
 tated an attempt to cut olf the Prince coming from Jaffna: the 
 escort however arrived with him on the evening of the fourth 
 without opposition- 
 
 Almost every day parties made excursions into different 
 parts of the country, but the inhabitants fled in all directions ; 
 fear prevented them from coming forward to declare their 
 friendly sentiments to the new King; and attempts to subdue 
 them produced no advantage. The troops now began to feel 
 the bad effects of the campaign, but sickness had not arrived 
 at any alarming height among them. 
 
 Soon after the arrival of Mootto Sawmy in Candy, articles 
 of convention were entered into between his Highness and the 
 Governor of the British settlements in Ceylon. This Prince, 
 from proximity of relation, and the customs of the country, had 
 the best title to the throne; and his character for humanity and 
 politeness, as well as discretion and dignity, was much praised 
 by Colonel Barbut, and others who had an opportunity of 
 knowing him. He expressed a wish that every thing which 
 was left in the palace should be preserved for him ; in conse- 
 
candian campaign in 1803. 
 
 187 
 
 quence of which, the sale of all that it contained was strictly 
 prohibited. 
 
 The British government in Ceylon agreed to deliver over to 
 him the town of Candy, and all the possessions dependent on 
 it, at that time occupied by the British arms, excepting the 
 province of the seven codes, the two hill forts of Geeriegannne 
 and Galle Gederah, and aline of ground across the Candian 
 territories, of a breadth sufficient to form a road from Columbo 
 to Trincomallee; which province, forts, and road, Mootto 
 Sawmy agreed to cede in full sovereignty to his Britannic 
 Majesty. 
 
 This Prince likewise consented that all Malays resident in 
 the Candian territories should be sent with their families into 
 the British settlements, from which he was to receive an auxi- 
 liary force, in case he should require it, to maintain his au- 
 thority. 
 
 He moreover agreed to allow the servants of our govern- 
 ment to gather cinnamon in his territories to the west of Balany 
 Candy, and to furnish as much more cinnamon as should be. 
 required at the price of 4/. 4s. sterling per bale of eighty pounds, 
 which was twice as much as was paid by the Dutch. 
 
 He also engaged to allow British servants, duly authorized, 
 to cut wood in all his forests; to give a safe conduct to the ex- 
 iled King down to Columbo, to afford him a sufficient main- 
 tenance; and to grant an amnesty to all who had opposed him: 
 to permit our government to examine the rivers and water- 
 courses in the Candian territories, and to afford his assistance 
 
188 
 
 CANDIAN CAMPAIGN IN 1803. 
 
 in rendering them navigable for the purposes of trade, and the 
 mutual advantage of both countries. 
 
 In this manner arrangements were made, with the most 
 sincere cordiality, between the British government and Mootto 
 Sawmy. But this Prince, although well received by the in- 
 habitants of the frontiers, met with no adherents as he ap- 
 proached the capital : and he now remained in the palace of 
 Candy, surrounded only by his own domestics, and supported 
 by no other power but that of the British army. 
 
 The armed inhabitants of the country continued true to the 
 fugitive Monarch, and his artful minister, whose head-quarters 
 were at this time established at Hangaramketty, a royal palace, 
 in a strong position, two days march from Candy. 
 
 Parties of banditti hovered continually round our out-posts. 
 They concealed themselves in the woods and thickets, fired 
 upon the guards and sentries during the night, and whenever 
 any unfortunate stragglers fell into their hands, they put them 
 to death in a most barbarous and shocking manner; but they 
 never dared to emerge from their hiding-places during the day, 
 or to make their appearance at any post where there were six 
 British soldiers. 
 
 One European of the 19th, several Malays, sepoys, and 
 coolies, were found mangled in a most cruel manner. The wife 
 of a Malay soldier met with a similar treatment. 
 
 During this time Pelirne Talawve had the effrontery to carry 
 on a deceitful correspondence, under the mask of friendship, 
 with the commander of the British forces; and no art w'as left 
 
CANDIAN CAMPAIGN IN 1803. 
 
 189 
 
 untried, which might either dupe or cajole our government. 
 He explained the nature of the post to which the King had 
 retired; pointed out the line of march by which it would be 
 easy to gain access to it; mentioned the resistance which might 
 be expected; requested that two strong detachments might be 
 sent by different routs, so that they might arrive at the palace 
 of Hangaramketty exactly at the same time; and promised 
 that he himself would assist in delivering this pageant Monarch 
 into our hands. 
 
 Accordingly, on the 12th of March, the flank companies 
 of the army in Candia were augmented to one hundred men 
 each, and formed into two divisions, the first of five hundred, 
 under the command of Colonel Baillie, the second of three 
 hundred, under Lieutenant Colonel Logan. Both detachments 
 marched on the morning of the ]3th at the same hour by dif- 
 ferent routes. Each had attached to it a small party of artil- 
 lery. 
 
 The country between Candy and Hangaramketty is ex- 
 tremely strong by nature, and great pains had been taken to 
 strengthen it still more by art. Batteries were erected on every 
 eminence which commanded the paths through which our sol- 
 diers were to pass; and riflemen were placed in ambush in the 
 thickest coverts of the jungle, where the ground was swampy 
 and impassable. 
 
 The two detachments had only advanced a few miles from 
 Candy when a heavy firing commenced upon each of them in 
 all directions. By one of the first rounds Lieutenant Frederick 
 
190 
 
 CANDIAN CAMPAIGN - IN 1803. 
 
 Iiankey of the 51st regiment, brigade major of the Kings 
 troops, in Colonel Baillie’s division, and Lieutenant Edward 
 Graham of the Bengal artillery, in Lieutenant Colonel Logan’s, 
 were severely wounded. Three European, soldiers, with a con- 
 siderable number of Malays and sepoys, fell at the same time. 
 Had not the generality of the enemy’s matchlocks been levelled 
 loo high to take effect, our loss must have been much greater. 
 The firing continued without interruption for a considerable 
 time, until at last the vigour of our musquetry, and able di- 
 rection of our cohorns, drove them from their batteries and 
 ambuscades. But though compelled to shift their ground, 
 they relinquished not their attack, but continued from neigh- 
 bouring hills and thickets to annoy the troops with jinjal pieces 
 and firelocks; and the two divisions moved on, accompanied 
 by the forces of the enemy. The road was mountainous and 
 rugged, and the march one of the most harassing and toilsome 
 which can possibly be imagined. Of a journey nearly thirty 
 miles in length, there werc^not more than three which could 
 be performed on horseback. 
 
 On the evening of the 14th the two parties formed a junc- 
 tion before Hangaramketty, and took the palace without much 
 resistance; but the King had made his escape before their ar- 
 rival, and they found nothing worth carrying away, excepting 
 a few Candian guns, commonly known by the name of jinjal 
 pieces, or grasshoppers. A small number of native soldiers 
 had deserted to the enemy; one of them, a sepoy belonging to 
 the Ceylon infantry, was seen hanging on a tree. But a man 
 
CANDIAN CAMPAIGN IN 1803. 
 
 191 
 
 of the rifle company of the Malay regiment was better treated 
 by the Candians, and was several times observed to level his 
 piece at Colonel Baillie, which circumstance excited great in- 
 dignation in the little army. 
 
 The detachments, owing to a deficiency of coolies, had only 
 carried with them provisions for eight days. Any further at- 
 tempt to pursue the King would therefore have been fruitless; 
 and Colonel Baillie, justly suspecting the Adigar of treacher- 
 ous designs, determined to return immediately to head-quar- 
 ters. On the morning of the 15th the palace was set fire to, 
 and burned down, after which the troops set out upon their 
 march, much to the chagrin of the minister of Candy, who 
 wished to draw them into new snares, and had calculated on 
 being able to involve them in perplexities, which would have 
 placed' both parties entirely in his power. The same opposi- 
 tion which they had experienced in advancing, attended their 
 
 return: but they reached the town of Candy in the evening of 
 
 / 
 
 the 16th of March, with much less loss than might have been 
 expected. On this occasion the coolies suffered more than 
 the troops, nineteen of them being killed, and a great many 
 wounded. 
 
 The correspondence between Trincomallce and Candy was 
 now entirely interrupted by the enemy, who had murdered 
 several small parties of coolies going up with provisions. The 
 mail which left Columbo on the 16th was taken near Dam- 
 badenia, when two sepoys were killed, and one dangerously 
 wounded: from which period no communications from the 
 
19'i CANDIAN CAMPAIGN IN 1803. 
 
 presidency reached Candy until the evening of the 30th, when 
 Captain Pollock of the 51st regiment arrived with a strong 
 part\ r , convoying provisions and stores, for which purpose he 
 had been sent down to fort Frederic. 
 
 After the return of the expedition from Hangaramketty, 
 Colonel Barbut went with a detachment for a short distance 
 on the road leading to Trincomallee, with a view of inducing 
 some of the head-men of the country to come in, and declare 
 themselves in favour of the Prince Mootto Sawmy. Several 
 men were killed in the detachment, and the attempt to con- 
 ciliate the natives met with no success. 
 
 The Candians lurking; amongst the bushes continued to 
 cut off stragglers, and received from their government a reward 
 of ten rupees for the head of every European, and five for that 
 of every native soldier in the English service. On the above 
 march a Candian was surprised just about to apply his knife 
 to the throat of a private of the Malay regiment, who was 
 gagged and tied ready for execution. The soldiers hung up 
 the barbarian on the nearest tree. 
 
 On the 11th of March, Lieutenant Patrick Campbell of 
 the 51st regiment came down sick from fort Frederic to Co- 
 lumbo; and Lieutenant William Ollenranshaw of the 65th w r as 
 sent up to superintend the forwarding of stores to the army 
 from that depot. The endemial fever, occasioned by its noxi- 
 ous climate, soon proved fatal to both of these officers; amiable 
 jmung men, who, on account of their talents and merit, had 
 been selected to an office of great trust and importance. 
 
CANDIAN CAMPAIGN IN 1803. 193 
 
 On the 13th of March, reports reached Col umbo that a 
 body of six thousand Candians was marching to attack the 
 above-mentioned post; in consequence of which, fifty men of 
 the grenadier company of his Majesty’s 65th regiment, and 
 fifty sepoys of the Ceylon native infantry, were ordered to 
 march immediately to Negombo. This party was commanded 
 by Captain Edward Bullock of the 65th, who arrived at Kata- 
 denia without seeing a Candian. He was some time afterwards 
 joined by twenty-five men of the same company, who had been 
 assisting in driving the Candians from different parts of our 
 territories. Every individual of the party was seized with the 
 fever, one after another, and sent down in boats to Colombo; 
 and at the end of three weeks Captain Bullock was the only 
 European remaining at fort Frederic. He had received instruc- 
 tions to remove the stores' by the river and canal to Negombo, 
 as it had been determined to destroy and abandon this post, 
 on account of the extreme unhealthiness of the situation. He 
 exerted himself with great spirit, and fell a sacrifice to the ser- 
 vice: and at the end of one month from the commencement of 
 his march, Lieutenant Hutchins and two privates were the 
 only persons of the party who remained alive. This officer 
 recovered by going immediately to sea, a total change of air 
 being one of the most successful remedies for this dreadful 
 malady. The sufferers of the 65th regiment were all picked 
 men, about six feet high, and from eighteen to twenty-three 
 years of age: they only landed from the Cape of Good Hope 
 on the 2d of November, 1802. 
 
 2 c 
 
 VOL. II. 
 
194 
 
 CANDIAN CAMPAIGN IN 1803. 
 
 The disease from which they suffered resembled in its symp- 
 toms the yellow fever of the West Indies; and in general it 
 baffled the skill of the physicians, and resisted the power of 
 medicine. 
 
 On the 19th of March, Captain Herbert Beaver of his Ma- 
 jesty's 19th regiment of foot, commandant of Negombo, having 
 received information that a large body of Candians had built 
 a redoubt, and taken post at Moohooroogampelly r within the 
 British territories, determined to march with what force he 
 could collect, and drive them away. His party consisted of 
 one serjeant and twelve men of the 65th grenadiers, one havil- 
 dar, twelve sepoys, and a few armed lascoreens. He arrived 
 within a mile and a half of the Candian fort about one o’clock in 
 the morning of the 20th ; and judging it proper not to wait for 
 day-light, proceeded to the attack. . The sentries fled at his 
 approach, and gave the alarm to the body of the enemy, who 
 immediately beat their tom toms, and, without firing a shot, 
 made the best of their way into the woods. 
 
 They consisted of about six hundred men, and the post 
 which they abandoned was remarkably strong both by art and 
 nature. On the south of it there was a complete square re- 
 doubt, constructed of fascines and earth, having parapets and 
 loop-holes, and adapted, if well defended, to resist any force 
 of mere musquetry. Captain Beaver spoke highly of the be- 
 haviour of the men of the 65th regiment, who only regretted 
 that there was no fighting. 
 
 Soon after this, intelligence was received that the Dessauve 
 
CAND1AN CAMPAIGN IN 1803. 
 
 195 
 
 of the four corles, Leuke Ralehami, bad entered the British 
 territory with a tumultuary force of several thousand men, and 
 had established himself at the village of Attegalla, where he 
 was endeavouring to seduce the subjects of the British govern- 
 ment from their allegiance. In consequence of which, Alex- 
 ander Wood, Esq. agent of revenue and commerce for the dis- 
 trict of Columbo, marched against him with a serjeant and 
 twelve men of the 65th regiment, twenty-four free Malays, and 
 about one hundred armed lascoreens and moormen. Mr.Wood 
 was joined on the road by most of the head-men of the district, 
 and a number of inhabitants. As soon as the Dessauve heard 
 of their approach, he tied with his party in confusion, leaving 
 behind him two Cingalese guns, and a bronze image of Buddha; 
 and did not stop until he got beyond Ruanella, several miles 
 within the Candian limits. 
 
 As the rains had already commenced in Candy, and were 
 soon expected to fall in torrents from the mountains, it became 
 evident that no farther hostilities could be carried on until 
 the ensuing dry season: it was therefore determined that the 
 greater part of the troops should return to their former stations; 
 and that Colonel Barbut, with one thousand men, should re- 
 main quietly in garrison at Candy, with which force he was 
 convinced that he could maintain himself securely against the 
 whole army of the enemy. 
 
 On the 26th of March, the Maha-Modelear, the head Cin- 
 galese servant of government, received at Columbo two letters 
 from the chief Adigar, one expressing his surprise that the 
 
196 
 
 C AND I AN CAMPAIGN IN 1803. 
 
 Governor should put himself to so much trouble and expence, 
 and not rather agree to some arrangement; the other more 
 confidential, proposing that the long refused deposition of the 
 King should be agreed to, and the Adigar’s power established. 
 To this it was answered, that if the safety of the King’s person 
 were secured, by putting him into the hands of the English, 
 the province of the Wanny yielded to Mooto Sawmy, and the 
 seven corles, with the road across the country, to the British, 
 peace should be restored. 
 
 The house of the chief Adigar in Candy had been for some 
 time cleared out, and put in order for the reception of some 
 great personage. On the 28th of March, the second Adigar, 
 the person who had been the last ambassador at Col umbo, 
 came into the town of Candy, carrying a firelock and match 
 wrapped up in white muslin, as an emblem of peace. He was 
 received by General Macdowall with every mark of respect 
 due to his rank; and on his departure, on the morning of the 
 30th, a salute of nine guns was fired from the field pieces. 
 
 In their conferences it was agreed that the fugitive King 
 should be delivered over to the care of the British government; 
 that Pelime Talawve should be invested with supreme authority . 
 in Candy, under the title of Ootoon Komar a yen, the Great 
 Prince; that he should pay annually the amount of thirty thou- 
 sand rupees to Mooto Sawmy, who would hold his court at 
 Jaffnapatam; that fort Macdowall, with the surrounding dis- 
 trict, the road to Trincomallee, and the province of the seven 
 corles, should be ceded to his Britannic Majesty; and that a 
 
C ANDI AN CAMPAIGN IN 1803. 
 
 197 
 
 cessation of arms should immediately lake place between the 
 contracting powers. 
 
 On the 1st of April, General Macdowall left Candy, taking 
 with him his Majesty's 51st regiment, the Ceylon native infan- 
 try, and part of the detachment of Bengal artillery. At the 
 same time, part of his Majesty’s 19th and Malay regiments set 
 out on their march to Trincomallee. The garrison left in Candy 
 consisted of seven hundred Malays, and three hundred Eu- 
 ropeans of the 19th regiment and Bengal and Madras artillery, 
 besides a considerable number of sick, who could not then be 
 safely moved. 
 
 The rout of General Macdowall’s division, on their return 
 to Columbo, was somewhat different from that by which they 
 advanced. Their fourth day’s march completed forty miles, 
 and brought them to Wisanaweh, where there is a Candian gra- 
 nary. This place lies almost due west of Candy, and the straight 
 line of distance does not exceed twenty miles; but the ranges 
 of mountains, which form the natural barriers of the Candian 
 capital, render a direct approach to it impracticable. 
 
 Besides the great hill of Balany, there are two other piles 
 of mountains, steep, and woody, the one called Wewedy, and 
 the other Ketta. About half an hour’s march to the northward 
 of Wisanaweh, there is another mountain stretching from east 
 to west, called Veewa Candy, or the hill of Viwary. Through 
 this mountain there is a steep and rocky passage, called Gall- 
 handawla, which leads into an extensive valley, intersected with 
 lesser hills. 
 
198 
 
 CANDIAN CAMPAIGN IN 1803. 
 
 The Adigar had given orders that the truce should be ob- 
 served, and the troops accomplished their respective marches 
 without molestation. Many of the Candians appeared in groups 
 on the hills, viewing the British soldiers as they passed, and 
 some of them approached very near with seeming confidence. 
 They are a poor harmless race, which could live contented under 
 any government, and now felt no small degree of pleasure at 
 the thoughts of returning to their peaceful habitations. 
 
 On the 6th of April a detachment of sick, which had left 
 Candy on the 1st, arrived in Columbo. In this party were 
 Lieutenant and Adjutant Abraham Robinson of the 51st regi- 
 ment, and Lieutenant Arthur Johnston of the 19th. The former 
 expired the following day; the latter went to sea, and reco- 
 vered. 
 
 Major General Macdowall arrived at Columbo on the 9th 
 of April. The division of the troops commanded by Colonel 
 Baillie marched into their former quarters early in the morning 
 of the 11th, to the great joy of their families and friends. 
 
 Nearly four hundred men of his Majesty’s 51st regiment ap- 
 peared this day under arms on parade; but there was scarcely 
 one of them 'who did not soon go into the hospital, and in less 
 three months three hundred of them died. 
 
 As a particular account of the diseases by which they and 
 the other troops in Ceylon suffered so severely may be accept- 
 able to some readers, part of the “ Medical Report” for the 
 month of April, 1803, is inserted in a chapter subsequent to 
 this narrative. 
 
CANDIAN CAMPAIGN IN 1803. 199 
 
 The deaths of both officers and men now occurred so fre- 
 quently, that Columbo wore an aspect of great gloom and me- 
 lancholy. Every street contained some persons sick of the 
 jungle fever; and the funeral processions inarched through the 
 fort in silence, to conceal from those in confinement the mournr 
 ful fate of their companions. 
 
 Notwithstanding the peaceable arrangements which had 
 commenced between the British power and the Adigar of 
 Candy, hostile dispositions still prevailed amongst the rest of 
 the nobles. They collected the inhabitants from all quarters, 
 invaded various provinces subject to the English, erected bat- 
 teries, aud committed depredations. Captain Beaver with his 
 small party marched over a large tract of country, dislodged 
 the enemy from many fortifications, which he destroyed, and 
 continued in the field several weeks, when he was at last com- 
 pelled to go into quarters by the violence of the rains. 
 
 On the 2d of April, the day after the troops left Candy, 
 the first Adigar advanced within three miles of it, with a large 
 force; but the garrison remained in great tranquillity, because 
 it was confidently expected that the truce would bring about 
 a peace agreeable to both parties. The fever daily carried off 
 some of the sick, and obliged others to go into the hospital. 
 Detachments w r ere sent frequently to fort Macdowall, for the 
 purpose of biinging up grain for the use of the troops; and a 
 constant guard was kept at that post, as well as at Geerie- 
 gamnie, Galle Gederah, and Dambadenia. 
 
 About the middle of April, a letter was received at Co- 
 
200 
 
 CAN'D I AN CAMPAIGN IN 1803. 
 
 lumbo from the first Adigar, requesting that he might be per- 
 mitted to hold an interview with the Governor for the purpose 
 of arranging the definitive treaty of peace. It was at the same 
 time suggested, that his Excellency's performing a tour in the 
 seven codes might have a good effect in quieting the apprehen- 
 sions of the natives, and increasing their confidence in the pro- 
 tection which had been promised them by the British govern- 
 ment. 
 
 Excited by a desire of restoring peace and tranquillity, by 
 agreement with the only authority in Candy with which there 
 was any possibility of negotiating, the Governor set out on 
 this journey on the 28th of April. His Excellency was accom- 
 panied by Robert Arbutlmot, Esq. chief secretary to govern- 
 ment, Mr. Jonville, surveyor-general, and his personal staff. 
 
 He arrived at Dambadenia, the principal station in the 
 fruitful province of the seven codes, on the first of May. Spa- 
 cious bungaloes had been prepared for the reception of him 
 and his suite, and temporary barracks were erected for the sol- 
 diers who formed his escort. The same day the principal head- 
 men of the neighbourhood waited upon him, declared their 
 satisfaction with the change of government which had taken 
 place, and promised obedience and fidelity to our most gra- 
 cious Sovereign. 
 
 On the 3d of May, Pelime Talawve, the chief Adigar, 
 waited on the Governor, with whom he held a long confer- 
 ence, and fully agreed to the terms which had been drawn up 
 in Candy by General Macdowall and the second Adigar. Mr. 
 
( 
 
 CANDIAN CAMPAIGN IN 1803. 201 
 
 Arbuthnot returned the visit of Pelimc Talawve the next day, 
 and tendered to him three copies of the convention, which he 
 signed and sealed. 
 
 Colonel Barbut, who commanded at Candy, having received 
 notice of the intended conference at Dambadenia, embraced 
 the opportunity of paying his respects to Mr. North, and re- 
 paired thither, escorted by three hundred men of the Malay 
 regiment. He gave the Governor a very favourable report of 
 the garrison which he had left, both in point of numbers and 
 provision. Sickness had indeed extended itself widely, but it 
 was then thought that it would soon diminish, and nothing was 
 wanting for the troops but doolies, a considerable number of 
 which w’as immediately ordered and prepared at Jaffnapatam. 
 The Colonel undertook to obtain Prince Mootto Sawmy’s ac- 
 quiescence in the convention, but unfortunately he was seized 
 with the jungle fever next day, and obliged to be sent down 
 to Colombo, where he expired on the 21st of the same month. 
 The loss of this invaluable officer afforded to the Candian 
 
 m 
 
 government easier means of perpetrating those horrid deeds, 
 which now appeared to have been the aim of all their politics. 
 
 The Adigar, during his interview with the Governor, was 
 observed to tremble, which circumstance was at that time at- 
 tributed to fear; but it has since been proved that he then 
 meditated to make Mr. North a prisoner, and was only de- 
 terred from the attempt by the force of his escort, and the un- 
 expected arrival of the strong detachment of Malays under 
 Colonel Barbut. 
 
 VOL. II. 
 
 2 D 
 
202 
 
 CANDIAX CAMPAIGN IN 1803. 
 
 In the Dutch expedition of 1765 several Moors received 
 large sums of money from the King of Candj^, on condition 
 that they would attempt to assassinate the governor, who then 
 accompanied the army in the field. One of them came into 
 the Dutch camp with that intention, but his appearance being 
 suspicious, his design was frustrated. 
 
 It was now thought that the Adigar was sincere, and that 
 he had at length determined to act with good faith. He ex- 
 pressed great uneasiness at the sickness of Colonel Barbut, and 
 at the difficulties which it might occasion to him in executing 
 the articles of the treaty; on which account he made an earnest 
 request that General Macdowall might again be sent to Candy, 
 which request government promised to comply with as soon as 
 possible. 
 
 On the 4th of May, the head-men of the Pale-patoos, or 
 southern division of the seven corles, waited on his Excellency 
 with expressions of fidelity to the crown of Great Britain, and 
 of attachment to his person and government. A similar cere- 
 mony was performed on the 5th by the head-men of the Dolos- 
 pattoo, the northern division of the province. The following 
 day the Governor set out on his return to Col umbo, where he 
 arrived on the 8th, much pleased with the populous and culti- 
 vated appearance of the fine district through which he had 
 
CHAPTER III. 
 
 ; * % 
 
 SICKNESS AND DISTRESS IN CANDY — MASSACRE OF THE BRITISH 
 
 TROOPS RETREAT OF CAPTAIN MADGE FROM FORT MACDOW- 
 
 ALL RELIEF OF DAM BADEN 1 A. 
 
 On the lbth of May, Major General Macdowall, attended 
 by Captain Macpherson his brigade major, and Captain Mac- 
 dowall his aide de camp, left Columbo, on his way to Candjg 
 which place he reached on the 23d in apparent health. 
 
 Joseph Jonville, Esq. was appointed commissioner extra- 
 ordinary of government in the province of the seven eorles, 
 and Mr. Beauvoir Dobree was named his secretary on the 18lh 
 of May. They immediately repaired to their station. The lat- 
 ter died of the endemial fever on the 14th of the following 
 month; and the former, menaced by hostile assemblies of the 
 Candians, made good his retreat to Columbo. 
 
 General Macdowall’s party met with no interruption on 
 the road ; but about the time of their march, frequent supplies, 
 both from Columbo and Trincomallee, were taken by the Can- 
 dians, and many of the coolies barbarously murdered : the 
 fever too, the small pox, and famine, committed dreadful ha- 
 vock amongst this race of people. Many of them died on the 
 high roads, and in the wretched houses of Candy, where hun- 
 gry dogs were often seen devouring their remains. 
 
204 
 
 CANDIAN CAMPAIGN IN 1803 . 
 
 The garrison too was thinned by the sickness and death 
 both of officers and men; and almost all the European soldiers 
 were confined to the hospital. By the swelling of the rivers 
 the boats were washed away; and the violent rains, which 
 overflowed the country, rendered any communication between 
 Candy and Colombo extremely difficult. 
 
 The Adigar did not repair to Candy to meet General Mac- 
 dowall, as he had promised, and wrote to him, on the 2d of 
 June, that he could not wait on him without the permission of 
 the King. The expectation of closing the warfare by a treaty, 
 once more vanished. 
 
 The Candians began to approach very near their capital, 
 and entrenched themselves in strong positions. They likewise 
 made every attempt to seduce the Malay soldiers from their 
 allegiance. Their chief native officer, Captain Nouradeen, re- 
 ceived a letter from his brother, a Malay Prince in the Can- 
 dian service, soliciting him to induce his countrymen to revolt, 
 and assassinate the British soldiers; on their doing which, the 
 King of Candy would reward them handsomely with lands and 
 money. At this time there were few European soldiers fit for 
 duty in the garrison. He immediately made known the com- 
 munication to his commandant, Major Davie, and did every 
 thing in his power to prevent desertion: but notwithstanding 
 his endeavours, on the 9th of June eight Malays, and the same 
 number of Madras lascars, went over to the enemy. At this 
 lime the Dessauve Leuke announced to our government, through 
 a confidential agent, that the first Adigar was a perfidious vil- 
 
CANDIAN CAMPAIGN IN 1803 . 
 
 205 
 
 lain, who deceived the whole world; that no confidence could 
 be placed in him, and that the second Adigar had quarrelled 
 with him. 
 
 Captain Macpherson was seized with the jungle fever on 
 the road to Candy, and returned to Columbo. General Mac- 
 dowall and his aide de camp were only a few days in the ca- 
 pital of the interior, ivhen the same disorder violently attacked 
 them. Their servants were likewise taken ill. During the cam- 
 paign, black people suffered by the fever as severely as Eu- 
 ropeans. 
 
 The General and his aide de camp left Candy on the 11th 
 of June, crossed the Maha-villa-ganga on a raft with great dif- 
 ficulty, and arrived on the 19th at Columbo ? where they and 
 Captain Macpherson had the good fortune to recover, after a 
 painful convalescence of nearly three months. 
 
 A party of sick was % sent off some time before from Candy 
 to Trincomallee, where the greater part of them soon did well; 
 and it was observed during the campaign, that of those who 
 went in that direction, many more recovered than of those who 
 went to Columbo. 
 
 On the 13th of June, Major Davie, the commandant of 
 Candy, received a letter from the Adigar, telling him that he 
 was in disgrace with the King, owing to his endeavours to serve 
 the English, and requesting him to undertake another expedi- 
 tion to Hangaramketlj r , as the only means by which peace 
 could be obtained. The Major was aware of the Adigar s du- 
 plicity, saw his intention of decoying the remainder of the 
 
206 
 
 CANDIAN CAMPAIGN IN 1803 . 
 
 troops; and concluded that he had promised more than he was 
 either able or willing to perform.' - 
 
 By the 20th of June, eleven more Malays had deserted to 
 the enemy, the Europeans were dying at the rate of six men a 
 day. Paddee w’as almost the only article which remained for 
 their subsistence, and in their sickly state they were unable to 
 perform the labour of beating it into rice. Preparations were, 
 at the same time, making by the Candians in different quarters 
 to attack the garrison; but Major Davie was ignorant whether 
 those threatened hostilities were intended as an infraction of 
 the treaty signed by the Adigar, or whether their object was 
 to forward its execution. 
 
 Prince Mootto Sawmy trembled at his situation, which he 
 saw every day becoming more perilous; and would gladly^ have 
 renounced for ever all pretensions to the sceptre of Candy, 
 
 could he have obtained a safe conduct to his old station at 
 
 ' 0 
 
 Jaffnapatam. 
 
 Before this period, the accounts received at Columbo con- 
 cerning the state of the garrison in Candy had produced con- 
 siderable alarm; and it was determined by government that 
 measures should be taken for the speedy evacuation of the 
 Candian country. 
 
 In general orders of the 17th of June 1803, a detachment, 
 consisting of sixty privates, and a proper number of officers, 
 of the Ceylon native infantry, was directed to proceed to 
 Candy with the least possible delay, under the command of 
 Ensign Smellie. The want of coolies to carry provisions de- 
 
CANDIAN CAMPAIGN IN 1803. 
 
 207 
 
 layed the setting out of this parly until the 26th of the same 
 month. 
 
 The coolies, as has been already mentioned, had suffered 
 
 / 
 
 dreadfully by the campaign; and those of them' who had re- 
 turned to their villages gave such an account of their own dis- 
 tresses, and the melancholy fate of their companions, as com- 
 pletely deterred others of the Cingalese from engaging in the 
 service. 
 
 The gentlemen in the department of revenue, whose business 
 it is to engage these people, had almost all fallen sacrifices to 
 the fever in the discharge of their duty, which circumstance 
 increased the difficulty of procuring the only vehicles by which 
 invalids can be moved in the Candian territories. One hun- 
 dred and forty Europeans were lying sick in Candy, besides 
 smaller numbers at the different outposts: but one thousand 
 Cingalese coolies were not sufficient to convey safely the first- 
 mentioned; and even the obtaining jof that number, under 
 such disadvantageous circumstances, in a country which is not 
 populous, was far from being an easy task. 
 
 On the 23d of June, the Candians took by surprise the two 
 strong posts of Geeriegamme and Galle Gederah. There were 
 stationed in each of these but one serjeant and twelve privates 
 of the Malay regiment, and one third of them had previous^ 
 deserted to the enemy, by whose success the communication 
 between Columbo and Candy was now entirely cut off. 
 
 The Candians daily increased in numbers, by levies from 
 all parts of the country. As the British garrison became weaker 
 
‘208 
 
 CANDIAN CAMPAIGN IN 1803. 
 
 and more enfeebled, they gathered courage, and grew resolute 
 in their determination to attack the capital. This circumstance 
 the chief Adigar, in his usual mysterious manner, communi- 
 cated by an ola on the 23d of June to Major Davie, the com- 
 manding officer in Candy, stating at the same time the dis- 
 tressing circumstances in which he himself was placed, by 
 having lost the confidence and incurred the displeasure of the 
 King. In consequence of this information, a disposition was 
 made for the defence of the town, and four field pieces were 
 placed in different directions for its protection. 
 
 About four o'clock in the morning of the 24lh of June, be- 
 fore day-break, the Candians attacked the guard posted on the 
 hill, which commanded the back of the palace, where the Bri- 
 tish troops were quartered. This guard consisted of six Malays 
 and four gun-lascars, placed in charge of one three-pounder, 
 of which the enemy got possession, and made the people pri- 
 soners. Soon afterwards, about five o’clock A. M. a strong- 
 party of Candian Malays, headed by Sanguylo their chief, 
 attempted to force the palace at the eastern barrier, where like- 
 wise one gun was posted. They were opposed by Lieutenant 
 Blakeney, and a few men of the 19th regiment. Sanguylo 
 crossed the stockade, and was immediately seized by the Lieu- 
 tenant: they struggled, and fell both together; and while lying 
 
 i 
 
 on the ground, Sanguylo gave a mortal stab to his opponent 
 with his creese. Lieutenant and Adjutant Plenderleath and a 
 private of the 19th regiment ran two bayonets through the body 
 of the Candian chief. The second in command, who followed 
 
CANDIAN CAMPAIGN IN 1803. 
 
 209 
 
 him in the attack, .was shot without the door of the palace. 
 The alarm was beaten, and Captain Humphreys of the Bengal 
 artillery coming up, loaded the field-piece with grape-shot, 
 which being fired, brought down twenty-four of the enemy. 
 The Candian troops, being intimidated by this loss, withdrew 
 to a greater distance, and manned all the rising grounds, from 
 which they galled the garrison by the fire of their grasshopper- 
 guns. On this occasion Lieutenant Plenderleath was severely 
 wounded; one man of the Bengal artillery, and two Malay 
 soldiers, were killed. After this an incessant fire was kept up 
 on both sides until two o'clock P. M. The officers of the gar- 
 rison were exhausted with fatigue. There were only about 
 twenty convalescent Europeans fit for duty: one hundred and 
 twenty men of his Majesty's 19th regiment were lying sick in 
 the hospital, incapable of being moved. A torrent of Can- 
 dians pressed upon the palace. The European officers of the 
 Malay regiment represented to Major Davie that the place 
 would not be much longer tenable, and intreated him to enter 
 into a capitulation with the Candians. After some considera- 
 tion on this subject, a white flag was displayed by the British 
 garrison, and the firing ceased on both sides. Many of the 
 Candians then approached, and Major Davie, attended by the 
 native Malay Captain Nouradeen, went out and conversed 
 with therti. They conveyed intelligence of his intentions to the 
 Adigar, who was posted at a considerable distance from the 
 town. On their return, Major Davie and Captain Nouradeen 
 repaired to the quarters of the Adigar. It was then stipulated 
 
 VOL. II. 
 
 2 E 
 
210 
 
 v 
 
 CANDIAN CAMPAIGN IN 1803. 
 
 that Candy, with the stores and ammunition in it, should be 
 immediately delivered up to the Candians; that all the British 
 soldiers should march out of Candy, with their arms, on the 
 road leading to Trincomallee; that Mootto Sawmy should be 
 permitted to accompany them; and that the Adigar should take 
 care of the sick and wounded, and supply them with provisions 
 and medicines, until such time as they could be removed to 
 Trincomallee or Columbo. The above articles were written on 
 olas, signed and exchanged between Major Davie and the 
 Adigar, who likewise delivered to him a passport, written in 
 the name of the King, to enable him to proceed without mo- 
 lestation on the road to Trincomallee. Accordingly, on the 
 return of Major Davie into Candy, preparations were made for 
 the removal of the whole garrison, excepting such of the sick 
 as were incapable of walking. About five o’clock P. M. the 
 troops, consisting of fourteen European officers, twenty Bri- 
 tish soldiers, two hundred and fifty Malays, one hundred and 
 forty gun lascars, with Prince Mootto Sawmy and his attend- 
 ants, marched out of Candy, and proceeded one mile and a 
 half to Wallapoloa, on the banks of the Maha-villa-ganga, on 
 the road leading to Trincomallee. At that place they were 
 obliged to halt all night, as the river is not fordable, and there 
 were neither boats nor rafts by which they could cross it. It 
 rained very hard, and the party remained on the summit of a 
 little rising ground, exposed to the inclemency of the weather. 
 Next morning [Saturday the 25th of June] our troops were 
 employed in endeavouring to form rafts, but a rope could not 
 
CANDIAN CAMPAIGN IN 1803 . 
 
 211 " 
 
 be carried across the river, owing to the depth and rapidity of 
 the stream. About seven o’clock A. M. many of the armed 
 Candians assembled near them, and others made their appear- 
 ance on the opposite banks of the river. Four head-men came 
 up to Major Davie, and informed him that the King had been 
 greatly enraged at the Adigar for allowing the garrison to leave 
 Candy; but that if they would deliver up Mootto Sawmy, they 
 should be supplied with boats to cross the river, and receive every 
 assistance to enable them to accomplish their march to Trinco- 
 mallee. Major Davie replied, that he would not deviate from 
 the articles of capitulation, which both parties were bound to 
 observe. Two hours afterwards, another party of Candian chiefs 
 waited on Major Davie, spoke to him in a very mild and friendly 
 manner, and solemnly declared that the King was desirous to 
 see and embrace Mootto Sawmy, and that he would receive and 
 protect him as a relation. Major Davie consulted his brother 
 officers, and replied to the ambassadors that he could not part 
 with Moltoo Sawmy without permission from Columbo. On 
 this they again departed, but returned soon afterwards, and 
 declared, that if Mootto Sawmy were withheld, the King would 
 send his whole force to seize him, and to prevent the British 
 troops from crossing the river. After another consultation with 
 the officers, Major Davie addressed himself to Mootto Sawmy, 
 told him that he had not sufficient power to detain him longer, 
 but that the King had pledged himself to entertain him kindly. 
 Mootto Sawmy exclaimed, “ My God! is it possible that the 
 “ triumphant arms of England can be so humbled, as to fear 
 
212 CANDIAN CAMPAIGN IN 1803. 
 
 “ the menaces of such cowards as the Candians!” Major 
 Davie and the other officers could not avoid entering into his 
 feelings: but as it appeared that resistance would prove vain, 
 and involve them all in destruction, this unfortunate Prince 
 was given in charge to the chiefs, who conducted him, attended 
 by his relations and servants, towards Candy. On his arrival 
 there, he was carried before the King, who upbraided him for 
 having attempted to deprive him of his crown, and gave orders 
 that he and two of his relations should be immediately exe- 
 cuted. Eight of his servants were deprived of their noses and 
 ears, in which mutilated condition they arrived six weeks after- 
 wards at Trincomallee, and have since been provided for by 
 the Ceylon government at Jatfnapatam. 
 
 About four o’clock P. M. a few Candians joined our party, 
 and appeared to make some preparations for enabling the troops 
 to cross the river. Night however came on, before any thing 
 sufficient was completed, and they went away promising to 
 return with boats in the morning. 
 
 Early on Sunday the 26th of June, armed Candians began 
 to assemble in great numbers, but no boats appeared, nor was 
 any assistance given inj'or warding the preparations to cross the 
 river: Captain Humphreys had however succeeded in getting, 
 a warp across at ten o’clock A. M. but a sufficient raft was not 
 ready, and the Candians on the opposite side soon afterwards 
 cut the rope. About this time, as has been stated by George 
 Barnsley, a corporal of his Majesty’s 19th regiment of foot, the 
 Malays and gun lascars began to desert in small parties to the 
 enemy. 
 
CANDIAN CAMPAIGN IN 1803. £13 
 
 About one hundred Candian Malays, and eighty Caffrees, 
 followed by a great crowd of undisciplined natives, posted 
 themselves at eleven o'clock A. M. within one hundred paces 
 of the British troops. A dessauve, or head-man, came up to 
 Major Davie, and delivered a message to him in public, say- 
 ing, that it was the King's desire that all the garrison should 
 return to Candy unarmed; and that, if they refused to comply 
 with this demand, they should be immediately surrounded, 
 and put to death. 
 
 Some of the embarrassments which distressed our unfortunate 
 countrymen may not yet be known ; but it is too certain that, 
 in an evil hour, the majority of them, after having consulted to- 
 gether, abandoned themselves to the mercy of the Candians, by 
 agreeing to deliver up their arms, and the Malays were ordered 
 to ground theirs. They then proceeded all together towards 
 Candy, accompanied by the Candian Malays, Caffrees, and a 
 mob of armed natives. They had advanced only half way, 
 when the Candian force was drawn up on each side of the road, 
 and the British troops allowed to move to the centre of the lane ; 
 they were then ordered to halt, and the men of the Malay re- 
 giment w r ere desired to march on: accordingly, they all pro- 
 ceeded, excepting four native Malay officers, and a few Malay 
 servants, attending on their masters, who refused to go on be- 
 fore the English officers. A Candian chief asked the Malays 
 if they were willing to enter into the service of the King of 
 Candy. Some of them answered that they were already the 
 worn soldiers of a great King, and that they could not serve 
 
214 
 
 CANDIAN CAMPAIGN IN 1808. 
 
 two governments. Immediately the chief ordered those who 
 had given this reply to be bound, and committed to the charge 
 of the Caffrees. He then asked the rest of the Malays, whe- 
 ther they chose to suffer death, or to enter into the Candian 
 service: they all answered that they would serve the King of 
 
 V 
 
 Candy, and were immediately conducted towards the town. 
 As soon as they w r ere out of sight of the Europeans, the Eng- 
 lish officers were separated from the private soldiers, and all 
 led out, two by tw r o, at a distance from one another, when the 
 Caffrees, by order of the chief Adigar, perpetrated one of the 
 most barbarous massacres which history records. The only 
 Englishmen selected for preservation were Major Davie, and 
 Captain Rumley of the Malay regiment, who were carried to 
 Candy after the massacre was completed. During the con- 
 fusion which this atrocious act of perfidy occasioned, Captain 
 Humphreys, laying hold of the arm of a sub-assistant surgeon 
 of the Malay regiment, a native of Columbo, found means to 
 roll down with him, from the height where the} 7 were standing, 
 to the hollow into which the dead bodies were thrown. They 
 contrived to conceal themselves for several days. The latter 
 escaped to Columbo in the month of September following; 
 the former died a prisoner in Candy. 
 
 Previous to the massacre of the troops in health, all the sick 
 in Candy, to the number of one hundred and twenty men of 
 his Majesty’s 19th regiment of foot, had been murdered in cold 
 blood, as they lay incapable of resistance in the hospital. 
 
 One corporal, George Barnsley, of the 19th regiment, al- 
 
CANDIAN CAMPAIGN IN 1803. 
 
 215 
 
 ready mentioned, who was left for dead in the general slaughter, 
 found means to make his escape. In his turn he was led out 
 with his companion, knocked down by the butt-end of a musket, 
 and desperately wounded by a sword across the neck. Finding 
 himself recover, he crept into a thicket, where he lay during 
 the day r , and in the night swam across the river, and arrived at 
 fort Macdowall early on the 27th, where he communicated the 
 dreadful intelligence to Captain Madge of the 19 th regiment, 
 commanding that post. This officer had sustained a siege for 
 three days, and from the melanchoty information which he 
 received of the garrison of Candy, resolved to retreat during 
 the night towards Trincomallee, with as many of his detach- 
 ment as might be able to accompany him. Nineteen sick 
 Europeans he was obliged to leave behind him, having no 
 means of transporting them. He however succeeded in bring- 
 ing off Captain Pearce, the assistant-surgeon Gillespie, with 
 thirteen men of the 19th regiment, and Lieutenant Driberg of 
 the Malay corps, notwithstanding the constant fire which was 
 kept up by the Candians on his small force during a march of 
 four days, until he fell in with a detachment of one hundred 
 and fifty Malays, commanded by Lieutenant Huskisson, escort- 
 ing one hundred doolies towards Candy, on the appearance of 
 which the enemy instantly fled. 
 
 The following is a list of the Officers who were stationed at 
 Candy when the last return was received : 
 
 Bengal artillery, Captain Richard Humphreys. 
 
 His Majesty’s 19 th regiment of foot, Lieutenants Blakeney^, 
 
216 
 
 CANDIAN CAMPAIGN IN 1803. 
 
 Byne, Plenderleath, and Maclaine; Ensign Smith, Quarter- 
 master Brown, Assistant-surgeon Hope. 
 
 His Majesty's 51st regiment, Lieutenant Thomas Ormsby, 
 acting assistant commissary of grain and provisions, and ser- 
 jeant Robert Stuart, acting provost-martial, with the rank of 
 Ensign. 
 
 His Majesty’s Malay regiment, Major Adam Davie, Cap- 
 tain Rumley, Lieutenant Mercer, Ensigns Robert Barry, Fan- 
 thome, and Gaupil. 
 
 East India Company’s service, Madras establishment, Henry 
 Holloway, Esq. garrison surgeon. 
 
 Lieutenant Blakeley, as before mentioned, was killed in 
 action. Lieutenant Plenderleath died of his wounds in Candy. 
 
 A list of those gentlemen, who fell victims to the fever dur- 
 ing the campaign, is added to this narrative. 
 
 Major Davie and Captain Rumley were conducted to Candy, 
 and from that to Hangaramketty, where they were shewn to the 
 King. They were afterwards confined in separate apartments. 
 Captain Humphreys, after having been carried before the pa- 
 geant Monarch, was imprisoned near them. Major Davie is 
 still alive, and w r cll treated, but so closely watched, that it is 
 extremely difficult to hold any communication with him. Ge- 
 neral Maitland however lately contrived to convey a letter to 
 him, to which he returned an answer, written with a pencil on 
 a small slip of paper, both of which were sent to him from Co- 
 lumbo. The Major is in good health, .but, as may naturally 
 be supposed, extremely impatient under his Confinement. In 
 
CANDIAN CAMPAIGN IN 1803. 
 
 217 
 
 ever}’ proposal of accommodation, his release has been de- 
 manded as a primary and indispensable article. The two other 
 officers are dead. 
 
 Captain Nouradeen and his brother, native officers of the 
 Malay regiment, were likewise conducted to the palace at Han- 
 garamketty. On their arrival there, the Adigar attempted to 
 force them to prostrate themselves before the King, according 
 to the custom of the country ; but they would not condescend 
 to perform an act of so much humiliation. They saluted the 
 King agreeably to their own rank and usage, telling him that 
 they inherited royal blood, and that their grandfather had been 
 an independent monarch. Their conversation did not displease 
 the King: he spoke kindly to them, requested them to enter into 
 his service, and to take the command of all the Malays. Nou- 
 radeen replied, that he could not accept of his Majesty’s offer, 
 without entailing upon himself everlasting disgrace; that he 
 had already sworn allegiance to the King of England, and that 
 he would live and die in his service. The two brothers were 
 then ordered into confinement, where they remained until 
 nearly the middle of the month of August following, when the 
 King of Candy sent for them again, and asked them whether 
 they chose to suffer death, or to serve him? They both an- 
 swered, that they were ready to sacrifice their lives in the ser- 
 vice of the illustrious King of England. The Candian Poten- 
 tate turned his face from them in a rage, and ordered them to 
 be immediately executed. A servant who attended on Noura- 
 deen' shared the same fate. Their bodies were not suffered to 
 
 2 f 
 
 VOL. II. 
 
21S 
 
 CANDIAN CAMPAIGN IN 1803. 
 
 be buried, but ropes being tied round their legs, they were 
 dragged into the midst of the woods, and left as a prey to wild 
 
 beasts. 
 
 In the evening of the day on which the British troops were 
 massacred, the chief Adigar collected together all their effects; 
 and gave orders for the firing of a royal salute, to announce his 
 triumph. 
 
 After the recapture of Candy was made known over the 
 country, the inhabitants returned to their houses in the capital, 
 and made preparations for celebrating an annual festival, which 
 occurs in the end of July, and was on this occasion accompa- 
 nied with more than usual thanksgiving and rejoicing. 
 
 The situation of Columbo, it may be conceived, was sadly 
 different. When the news first reached that garrison, it pro- 
 duced universal consternation: it was like a clap of thunder, 
 which had been for some time portended by a dark and gloomy 
 sky; and was followed by an awful and overpowering calm. 
 
 At the same time that Candy was taken, the fort of Dam- 
 badenia was in a state of blockade. It was a small redoubt, 
 slightly constructed of fascines and earth, garrisoned by four- 
 teen convalescents of the 19th regiment, on their way to Co- 
 lumbo, and twenty-two invalid Malays, commanded by Ensign 
 John Grant of that corps. He was repeatedly summoned by the 
 Candians, headed by the second Adigar, to give up the post. 
 They sent in a flag of truce every day for upwards of a week ; of- 
 fered him a supply of coolies to carry off the sick, and solemnly 
 declared that they would allow the detachment to march out 
 
 * 
 
CANDIAN CAMPAIGN IN 1803. 219 
 
 unmolested, with their arms, and whatever else they chose to 
 take with them. Ensign Grant, though in a feeble state of 
 health, almost incapable of walking, would listen to none of 
 their proposals. He strengthened the shelter of his fortification 
 with bags of rice and stores of provisions, and sustained an 
 almost incessant fire from a mob of several thousand Candians 
 for ten days. His men lay sheltered behind a breast-work, and 
 only took an occasional aim at the enemy, when they came 
 very near. 
 
 The detachment under Ensign Sinellie, which left Columbo 
 on the 26th of June, afforded the small garrison of Dambadenia 
 a seasonable relief on the 30th of the same month. 
 
 On the 2d of July a reinforcement of one hundred men was 
 sent from Columbo to assist in accomplishing the evacuation 
 of that post. This party was commanded by Captain Robert 
 Blackall of his Majesty’s 51st regiment, who reached Damba- 
 denia in three days; and after destroying in one night a large 
 quantity of stores and provisions in that depot, completely suc- 
 ceeded in bringing off the garrison. This service was performed 
 with the loss of only two 'men of the 51st regiment; the one, 
 eager to attack the Candians on the opposite side of the Kay- 
 melle river, attempted to swim across it, and was carried away 
 by the stream and drowned. The other, having taken an op- 
 portunity of drinking to excess of the strong liquors which the 
 parly was employed in destroying, wandered into the woods, 
 where it Avas supposed he fell asleep, as he could not be found 
 when the detachment departed. 
 
220 
 
 CANDIAN CAMPAIGN IN 1S03. 
 
 An attempt was made to surprise the second Adigar, by 
 sending a party in the night to the place where he was sta- 
 tioned; but upon the approach of it he fled with all his people, 
 and escaped into the woods. The huts and bungaloes con- 
 structed for their accommodation were burned by our soldiers. 
 
 It is satisfactory to mention, that no spirit of defection pre- 
 vailed in his Majesty’s Malay regiment, although a few deser- 
 tions had taken place, which is not much to be wondered at, 
 considering the harassing duty, and deprivation of comforts, 
 which they experienced in Candy. 
 
 The Malay Princes who are settled at Columbo waited on 
 the Governor, assured him of their regret and indignation, to 
 hear that any of their countrymen had deserted, and professed 
 their invariable attachment to the British government. 
 
 Those Malays who had been made prisoners of war in Candy 
 were separated into four divisions, sent to different parts of the 
 country, and watched with jealous eyes by the natives. By 
 feigning to assist them in their various attacks on our settle- 
 ments, the greater part of the Malays, as well as of the gun- 
 lascars, had the good fortune to escape to their old service in 
 the course of a few months. 
 
 As no English officer who was present at the fall of Candy 
 has yet appeared to give an account of the causes which led to 
 it, and the subsequent disasters, they are still involved in much 
 obscurity: and a more circumstantial and authentic detail of 
 the transactions is rather to be wished for than expected. 
 
 \ 
 
CHAPTER IV. 
 
 DESCENTS OF THE CANDIANS ON THE BRITISH TERRITORIES — RESULT 
 OF THE ATTACK MEDITATED AGAINST COLUMBO — VARIOUS SKIR- 
 MISHES. 
 
 / 
 
 For several weeks after the occurrence of the calamities de- 
 tailed in the last chapter, stillness reigned over all the coasts of 
 the island. The hospitals were crowded with sick and dying; 
 and the barracks occupied only by a small number of invalids 
 and convalescents. However great, therefore, the anxiety of 
 our government was to punish the minister of Candy for his 
 treacherous, cruel, and ignominious conduct, resources for car- 
 rying on the war with vigour no longer existed. Thus circum- 
 stanced, and unable to procure succour from the territories of 
 the East India Company, all ideas of undertaking any offen- 
 sive operations against the enemy were for a time banished 
 from our councils. 
 
 The Candians, elated with their success, began soon after 
 this period to seduce the native subjects of the British govern- 
 ment from their allegiance, and to foment disturbances in va- 
 rious parts of the country. The object of their policy was to 
 divide as much as possible the remnant of our forces. Towards 
 the end of July all our frontiers were threatened by warlike 
 assemblies nearly at the same time. It became evident that 
 
222 
 
 CANDIAN CAMPAIGN IN 1803 . 
 
 some desperate incursions were meditated into the bosom ol‘ 
 our territories; and the King of Candy, in the vanity of his 
 heart, made preparations to attack the capital of the British 
 settlements. 
 
 The menaces of the enemy having made their first appear- 
 ance in the district of Matura, about the 30th of July a party 
 of twenty-five Europeans and fifty sepo}'s was sent, under 
 Lieutenant Stamer, to strengthen the principal military station 
 in that province. 
 
 Small parties of sepoys were sent, at the same time, to rein- 
 force the garrisons of Negumbo, Chilauw, and Pootlam. 
 
 On the loth of August intelligence was received at Columbo 
 of the renewal of war with France. 
 
 On the 20th of August, in consequence of alarming intel- 
 ligence from Matura, fifty Europeans and one hundred se- 
 poys, under Captain Shortt, marched immediately towards 
 that place. 
 
 The province was occupied by large bodies of the Candians ; 
 and the inhabitants, having been compelled to join them, were 
 in a state of complete revolt. The officer commanding at Ma- 
 tura had called in a small garrison from Tengalle, a neat and 
 strongly situated fortress, twenty miles to the northward. This 
 place, on being evacuated, was immediately taken possession 
 of by the enemy, who began to dismantle and demolish it. 
 
 Captain Herbert Beaver, of his Majesty’s 19th regiment, 
 having been ordered to supersede the officer in command at 
 Matura, left Columbo on the evening of the 19th, and arrived 
 
CANDTAN CAMPAIGN IN 1803 . 
 
 223 
 
 at his place of destination on the morning of the 22d. lie tra- 
 velled alone, and very fortunately went from Point de Galle to 
 Matura by sea, as the road was at that time blocked up by the 
 Candians. On the nights of the 22d, 23d, and 24th, lie made 
 incursions into the country, with invariable success and little 
 loss, the enemy seldom waiting for the arrival of our troops. 
 
 Captain Shortt and his detachment arrived at Matura on 
 the evening of the 26th, having met with opposition only from 
 one Cingalese battery at a pass near Belligam, half-way be- 
 tween Point de Galle and Matura. 
 
 On the evening of the 27th, Captain Beaver set out in order 
 to retake Tengalle. He forced two of the enemies batteries with 
 little difficulty. Near Dickwell the enemy was posted behind 
 a low wall, and from their fire appeared to be in great force. 
 Serjeant Aird of the 31st, and corporal Maitland of the 65th 
 regiment, were wounded, the former in two plaees; these how- 
 ever were the only casualties among our troops. After driving 
 the enemy from their inlrenchments, Captain Beaver continued 
 his march with little molestation to Tengalle, where lie arrived 
 at eight o’clock A.M. on the 28th. That compact little fort 
 was found abandoned, and nearly destroyed by the Candirns. 
 After leaving a small force of Europeans and sepo} r s there, 
 under the command of Ensign Riddle, Captain Beaver returned 
 to Matura without opposition. By his active exertions the Can- 
 dians were soon compelled to retire into their own territories, 
 and tranquillity was restored to the extensive province of Ma- 
 tura. The natives flocked to him in great numbers, with pro- 
 
224 
 
 CANDIAN CAMPAIGN IN 1803 . 
 
 fessions of loyalty, and again took quiet possession of their pro- 
 perty along the sea-coast. 
 
 It is a tribute of justice due to the merits of this officer to 
 make the following extract from the general orders issued by 
 the Governor at Columbo on the 2d of September 1803. 
 
 “ The Governor has observed, with peculiar satisfaction, the 
 “ rapid series of well judged and well executed operations, by 
 “ which Captain Herbert Beaver of the 19 th regiment has hi- 
 “ thcrto proceeded in recovering the important province of 
 “ Matura from the Candians, and in bringing back its deluded 
 “ inhabitants to their duty. The indefatigable activity, zeal, 
 “ and ability, which that officer has displayed since his assump- 
 “ tion of the command in that district, has fully justified the 
 “ high opinion which his Excellency had formed of him from 
 “ his former services, and which induced him to appoint him 
 “ to that arduous station in a time of such extreme difficulty 
 “ and discouragement.” 
 
 The rebellious behaviour of the inhabitants of Cogel, in in- 
 terrupting the communication between Galle and Matura by 
 land, and attempting with their fishing-boats to interrupt it by 
 sea, induced Lieutenant Colonel Logan, commandant of Galle, 
 to order Lieutenant Fullarton, of the Ceylon native infantry, to 
 proceed with a detachment to punish them. This was effected 
 on the 29th of August, by burning above fifty boats, and destroy- 
 ing all the houses in the villages. One of the chief rioters was 
 taken and hanged, and five others condemned o receive one 
 thousand lashes each, by the commissioners for executing mar- 
 
C AND IAN CAMPAIGN IN 1803. 225 
 
 tial law, which the disordered state of the country had obliged 
 government to proclaim. 
 
 At the same time that all the other British settlements in 
 Ceylon were either menaced or attacked by the Candians, 
 several irruptions were made into the different corles in the 
 district of Colombo. 
 
 On the morning of the 21st of August, a large body of the 
 enemy had advanced within fifteen miles of the seat of govern- 
 ment. The night before, they took the little fort of Hangwell, 
 twenty miles from Columbo, and made themselves masters of 
 the village, together with the house of the modelear: he had 
 fortunately removed his family previous to the attack, and was 
 afterwards lucky enough to make good his own retreat. 
 
 The day on which intelligence reached Columbo of the ad- 
 vance of the Candian troops, an alarm was spread that they 
 intended making an inroad into the Pettah during the ensuing 
 night ; in consequence of which, many of the European fami- 
 lies, who lived in the suburbs, took refuge in the fort. 
 
 The Governor, however, remained quietly in his country- 
 house; but it was* thought proper to add a serjeant and twelve 
 Europeans to his guard, which for some time before had con- 
 sisted only of sepoys. 
 
 As soon as accounts were received of the capture of Hang- 
 well, Lieutenant C. W. Mercer of his Majesty’s 51st regiment 
 was ordered to march with thirty Europeans and twenty-five 
 sepoys, to reinforce an advanced party of twenty-five sepoys 
 
 VOL. II. 
 
 2 g 
 
226 
 
 CANDIAN CAMPAIGN IN 1803. 
 
 and fifty armed lascoreens, stationed at Kadavilly cn the Ca- 
 lany-ganga, ten miles from Columbo, and as many from Hang- 
 well, and to proceed with them to attack the enemy. 
 
 In all parties of Europeans employed at this time, propor- 
 tions of men were taken from the 51st and 65th regiments, 
 according to the strength of which each corps consisted. 
 
 Lieutenant Mercer acquitted himself of the service on which 
 he was sent in the most satisfactory manner. Tn the evening of 
 the 21st he came up with an advanced body of the Candians, 
 checked their progress, and dispersed them, after killing three 
 of their men. On the morning of the 22d, he attacked and 
 stormed a battery which they had made in a very strong posi- 
 tion at the bridge of Putchila near Hangwell, from which bat- 
 tery they pretended to have retreated, that they might draw 
 him into an ambuscade. Although they succeeded in that 
 object, they were defeated, and driven from their post with 
 great slaughter, and the loss of forty prisoners, and some Cin- 
 galese guns. Lieutenant Mercer immediately marched on, and 
 took possession of Hangwell. 
 
 The same day he w^as joined by Lieutenant Worsley of the 
 royal artillery, who brought up a detachment of fifty-five Eu- 
 ropeans, and one cohorn. Captain Frederick Hanke} r of the 
 19th regiment, having been ordered to take the command of all 
 the troops then at Hangwell, rode up singly on horseback, and 
 took charge of the party before night. 
 
 William Erskine Campbell, Esq. agent of revenue and com- 
 
CANDIAN CAMPAIGN IN 1803. ✓ 227 
 
 merce at Chilauw, marched from that place on the morning of 
 the 1 7 th, with twelve Malay invalids and eight sepoys, to Pa- 
 lanne, one league within the Candian territories, where he 
 arrived at ten o’clock A. M. drove away the Candians col- 
 lected there, burned their newly-erected barracks, and five 
 store-rooms, containing fifteen hundred parrhas of rice and 
 paddee, and took the person next in rank to the corel prisoner. 
 
 Major Evans, commandant of Putlam, fnade a successful 
 expedition, with a small force, into the Candian territories in 
 that neighbourhood, on the night of the 20th, and brought in 
 a considerable number of prisoners and bullocks. 
 
 Captain Hankey, after assuming the command of Hang- 
 well, lost no time in driving the Candians out of that part of 
 the British settlements. He proceeded against the enemy with 
 great spirit and activity, and, after storming three of their bat- 
 teries, took possession of a strong post at Avisavellie, without 
 the loss of a man. The enemy were driven from their rude 
 fortifications by a few shells thrown amongst them, and the 
 troops advancing at the same time. The party experienced an 
 irregular fire during a march of nearly twelve miles, and when 
 they arrived on the banks of the river (one of the branches of 
 the Calany-ganga), an attempt was made to dispute their pas- 
 sage; the resistance however was but of short duration. Our 
 troops advanced with eagerness, and the Candians fled in great 
 trepidation. Several of them were bayoneted in the water, 
 and ten left dead on the opposite bank; among whom were 
 two Malays, but not of those formerly in our service; the rest 
 
 I 
 
228 
 
 CANDIAN CAMPAIGN IN 1803. 
 
 ran with so much speed, that it was impossible to overtake 
 them, although it seemed probable that some must have been 
 wounded in the flight. Captain Hankey afterwards made an 
 incursion into the Candian country, where he burned an exten- 
 sive village, and a large house belonging to the Dessauvc of the 
 four corles. He then moved back to Hangwell, where a de- 
 tachment was left under the command of Lieutenant Mercier: 
 the rest of the troops returned to Col umbo on the 29th, the 
 main body of the party by the river in boats, Captain Hankey 
 and Assistaut-surgeon Moffatt by land on horseback. 
 
 Thirty Europeans, commanded by Lieutenant James Camp- 
 bell of the 51st regiment, marched from Columbo at half past 
 four o’clock P. M. on the 23d of August. They crossed the 
 Calany-ganga at the Grand Pass, and moved along the banks 
 of the river towards Malwana, in search ot a body of Candians 
 which was reported to be coming down in that direction. Lieu- 
 tenant Campbell was joined on the 25th by one hundred sepoys, 
 and a small party of Europeans with a mortar, under Captain 
 John Buchan of the Ceylon infantry. 
 
 About six days before, Captain Blackall of the 51st pro- 
 ceeded from Negumbo with a small party to the assistance of 
 the garrisons of Chilauw and Putlam, and returned to Negumbo 
 on the 25th. On the 24th, after the departure of this officer, 
 a numerous army of Candians assembled near Chilauw. Lieu- 
 tenant Mahomed Alley Ibrahim, a native officer of his Majesty’s 
 Ceylon infantry, went out against them with only twenty sepoys, 
 and repulsed them with great braver\ r . Twenty-two of their 
 
CANDIAN CAMPAIGN IN 1803. 
 
 229 
 
 number were left dead in the field, and the small party brought 
 off seven English muskets, and a considerable number of watch- 
 coats, which had fallen into the hands of the enemy in Candy. 
 This native Lieutenant had been formerly distinguished for zeal 
 and intrepidity, and was on this occasion presented with a sil- 
 ver-hilted sword, and an allowance for keeping a horse. A 
 month’s extra pay w r as granted to the detachment which served 
 under him. 
 
 At the same time that the above-mentioned body of Can- 
 dians marched towards Chilauw, another commanded by a 
 Dessau ve was sent by the King, with orders to attack the mud 
 fort of Putlam. When they were several miles distant from it, 
 Major Evans made a vigorous sally in the night with a party 
 of Malays in the disguise of Candian peasants. This artifice 
 succeeded: the Candians were surprised, and put to flight in 
 great disorder. When the Kino- heard of their sudden and un- 
 expected repulse, he ordered the officer commanding them to 
 be executed in his retreat; and desired that it might be pro- 
 claimed in his army, that every person who failed in accom- 
 plishing the object of his enterprise, should pay the forfeit of 
 his head. 
 
 On the evening of the 2?th of August, the feeble and almost 
 untenable fortress of Chilauw was completely beset by an im- 
 mense multitude of Candians. They erected batteries in all 
 directions round it, and many of their shot fell amongst the 
 garrison, which at this time consisted only of twenty-five se- 
 poys, and two young civil servants of government, Messrs. 
 E.W. Campbell and John Deane, who acted as volunteers. 
 
230 
 
 CANDIAN CAMPAIGN IN 1803 . 
 
 Their ammunition was completely exhausted, and they had for 
 twenty-four hours kept the enemy at bay, by filing copper 
 coins instead of grape-shot. A great alarm for their safety was 
 consequently spread at head-quarters. 
 
 Lieutenant White of the 51st regiment, with twenty men, 
 marched from Columbo to their relief in the night of the 28th 
 of August. Captain Blackall proceeded with a party at the 
 same time from Negumbo. Captain Buchan, who had arrived 
 two days before at Hangwell with a detachment, by a route on 
 the opposite side of the Calany river, likewise bent his march 
 towards Chilauw, through the interior of the country, by the 
 way of Attengalle. 
 
 The two first parties succeeded in affording timely succour 
 to the distressed garrison on the 39th and 31st; dispersed the 
 Candians, and destroyed the batteries which they had erected. 
 Captain Blackall afterwards followed them into their own ter- 
 ritories, and made a circuitous and fatiguing march, without 
 being able to meet with any of the enemy. 
 
 The route laid down for Captain Buchan was greatly longer, 
 and much more difficult than that of the other two. 
 
 The interior of the island is mountainous and rocky, and no 
 other roads are formed, except those foot-paths in which the 
 natives travel. In many parts of the circuit taken by Captain 
 Buchan's party, no bullock could pass; and the soldiers were 
 constantly obliged to carry scaling ladders, to enable them to 
 climb the precipices, which would otherwise have proved in- 
 surmountable impediments to their march. 
 
 Captain Buchan received intelligence of the relief of Chi- 
 
231 
 
 C AND IAN CAMPAIGN IN 1803. 
 
 \ ' 
 
 lauw before he reached it, and, agreeably to his instructions, 
 again bent his march, through ravines and mountains, towards 
 Hangwell, where another formidable attack from the enemy 
 was expected. 
 
 One thing which in some degree counterbalanced the suf- 
 ferings of these toilsome marches, was a comfortable supply of 
 excellent provisions. The provinces being all either in a state 
 of revolt, or occupied by the Candians, the soldiers were al- 
 lowed to kill plenty of beef and veal, and to cut down cocoa- 
 nut-trees, the tops of which (the extremity of the stem, embo- 
 somed by the axilla of the leaves) afford a rich white vegetable, 
 equal in flavour to the finest cabbage. In consequence of these 
 indulgencies, and now and then an extra glass of arrack, the 
 men enjoyed good health and high spirits; although in many 
 parts of the country through which they passed they expe- 
 rienced heavy dews, and the air appeared of as pestilential a 
 nature as that of Katadenia. 
 
 This party only encountered the enemy once; but although 
 they were very strongly posted, and had three well-constructed 
 batteries, the} 7 retreated so precipitately, that our soldiers with 
 their utmost speed could not overtake them. 
 
 Lieutenant Mercer had been engaged in constant skirmishes 
 with the Candians in the neighbourhood of Hangwell. The 
 fort at that place is in so ruined a state, that he was obliged to 
 take post in the modelear’s house, which is inclosed by a slight 
 wall. Here he was three times successively attacked by large 
 
 i 
 
 bodies of the enemy, but defended his station with great abi- 
 
232 
 
 CANDIAN CAMPAIGN IN 1803 . 
 
 lity and resolution. A considerable number of his men were 
 wounded, and his own health had suffered from his exertions. 
 In consequence of information to this effect, and the probabi- 
 lity of more desperate engagements, John Orr, Esq. garrison- 
 surgeon, was ordered from Columbo, and joined Lieutenant 
 Mercer’s detachment early on the 4th of September, there 
 being only before that time a sub-assistant surgeon with the 
 party. 
 
 The period of the campaign most nearly interesting to the 
 British inhabitants of Ceylon now began to open. Trifling 
 and insignificant as these skirmishes may seem to persons ac- 
 customed to view operations of greater magnitude, they could 
 not be contemplated without emotion b}' those who knew that 
 their existence depended on the result. 
 
 The King of Candy consulted many of the prisoners, who 
 were treacherously detained in his dominions, concerning the 
 possibility of his capturing Columbo. Although none of them, 
 from their knowledge of the strength of the place, could afford 
 him the least encouragement, yet being flattered, either through 
 ignorance or design, by the confident exhortations of his ow r n 
 subjects, he determined to hazard the attempt, even at the 
 risk of his own life. He was not ignorant of the many deaths 
 which had occurred at Columbo, and knew w r ell the present 
 weakness of the garrison. Of the nature of the fortifications it 
 is not probable that he had any correct idea, for he placed his 
 greatest hopes of success in a few six-pounders, and nearly two 
 hundred of our gun-lascars, whom he compelled to work them. 
 
CANDIAN CAMPAIGN I N 1803. 
 
 233 
 
 On the morning of the 5th of September a small party 
 inarched from Columbo to reinforce the garrison of Hangwell; 
 and in the evening of the same da} 7 , Captain William Pollock 
 of his Majesty’s 51st regiment was sent to command the whole 
 detachment, which did not much exceed one hundred men. 
 He rode up, protected only by his own sword and pistols, and 
 took charge of the post at ten o’clock P. M. 
 
 Next morning (the 6th at ten A. J\L) Hangwell was attacked 
 by the grand army of the Candians, commanded by the King 
 in person. They advanced with more than usual boldness, 
 firing grape-shot from their artillery, which struck the wall, 
 behind which our troops were stationed: the effects of it how- 
 ever were not felt. Had balls been used, the consequences 
 would have been more dangerous. Captain Pollock, anxious 
 to bring the Candians as near to him as possible, made no 
 attempt to retard their progress. When they had advanced 
 within two hundred yards of the house, and hailed as if afraid 
 to come to closer quarters, the officer above-mentioned sent a 
 detachment of his troops under Lieutenant Mercer through an 
 unseen path in the woods, to enfilade the left flank of the un- 
 disciplined multitude. Having allowed time for a co-operation 
 to take effect, he sallied forth with the remainder of his garri- 
 son, who were soon in the midst of the enemy. The slaughter 
 from both quarters began almost at the same moment. Re- 
 sistance continued about two hours, when the shot of a field- 
 piece reaching near to the station of the King, he retreated 
 with precipitation, and was followed by his whole army. 
 
 VOL. II. 
 
 2 H 
 
234 
 
 CANDIAN CAMPAIGN IN 1803 . 
 
 Several of the Candian Malays closed hand to hand with 
 our soldiers: one of them, in the dress of a person of rank, ran 
 a spear through the thigh of a private of the 65th regiment, who 
 immediately charged his antagonist, and killed him. 
 
 On our side only two men were wounded on this occasion; 
 but the slaughter of the enemy was great. All the roads near 
 Hangwell were strewed with slain; and the coolies belonging 
 to the detachment buried two hundred and seventy of them on 
 the day subsequent to the battle. 
 
 The British forces got possession of a royal Candian stand- 
 ard, eighty Candian prisoners, two English six-pounders, one 
 English three-pounder, one hundred and twenty English fire- 
 locks, various boxes of ammunition, the creese and sash of a 
 Malay of high rank, a great number of Cingalese matchlocks, 
 and many accoutrements. 
 
 But the most important acquisition made by this success 
 was the recovering of one hundred and fifty Bengal and Ma- 
 dras lascars, and twenty-six Malays. Several of these unfor- 
 tunate men had been slain by our artillery in the beginning of 
 the action, as they were forced to serve the Candian guns : the 
 others, no longer overawed by the enemy, threw themselves 
 into the arms of the English detachment, with a demonstration 
 of joy, which left no doubt of their sincerity. Independent of 
 their own declaration, it was sufficiently evident that they had 
 pointed the field-pieces so as to fire over the heads of our sol- 
 diers. 
 
 The disappointed Monarch of Candy was overtaken in his 
 
CANDIAN CAMPAIGN IN 1803. 
 
 235 
 
 flight by Leuke Ralehamy, Dessau ve of the four corles, who 
 led the attack of Hangwell, and the Maha Mottiar, or chief 
 secretary of state, both of whose heads, in the violence of his 
 indignation, he ordered to be immediately struck off; and left 
 their dead bodies unburied in a ravine one mile beyond Roy- 
 berg. Nor did his cruelty stop here; for a number of carcasses, 
 which floated down the river by Hangwell, and afterwards to 
 the Grand-pass near Columbo, proved that the execution of 
 his own subjects was considerable and indiscriminate. 
 
 The men under the command of Captain Pollock were only 
 convalescents, and all affected with weakness in their knees, 
 a complaint universally felt by every person who recovered 
 from the Ceylon fever. Had they been possessed of strength 
 sufficient to continue the pursuit, the carnage would have been 
 much greater; and it is highly probable that we should have 
 had the good fortune to make the King a prisoner; a party of 
 forty of our own Malays, stationed in his rear, were waiting 
 anxiously for the approach of the British troops, as they had 
 determined, on seeing them advance, to make themselves mas- 
 ters of his Majesty’s person, and bring him over with them. But 
 this circumstance was not then known; and the feeble condi- 
 tion of the soldiers rendered a halt indispensably necessary. 
 
 Incidents of this nature suggested to government the great 
 advantages which might arise from the establishment of a small 
 body of cavalry in the island : a troop of eighteen was soon 
 afterwards raised; and although there has yet been no occasion 
 for their active services in the field of battle, they have saved 
 
236 
 
 CANDIAN CAMPAIGN IN 1803. 
 
 the infantry from many tiresome marches, and proved of so 
 much utility, that the number has since been increased to one 
 hundred. 
 
 Captain Pollock destroyed a richly ornamented bungaloe 
 erected not far from Hangwell for the reception of the King. 
 In front of it stood two stakes, on which it was intended to im- 
 pale the English prisoners: they exactly agree with the de- 
 scription of those barbarous instruments given by Knox in his 
 “ Historical Relation of Ceylon/’ published in the year 1681. 
 
 At midnight between the 6lh and 7th of September a rein- 
 forcement of thirty-five Europeans was sent up to Hangwell, 
 under the command of Captain Hankey. 
 
 These were all the men in Col umbo capable of marching. 
 Invalids and pensioners now performed the garrison duty; and 
 it was not an unusual sight to see a centinel with only one leg 
 mounting a guard. The town-major was the only officer left to 
 preside over them. 
 
 On the 9th in the morning, Captain Pollock marched for- 
 ward, accompanied by Captain Hankey, Lieutenants Mercer 
 and jNPVeagh of the infantry, and Worsley of the royal artil- 
 lery, with a detachment of eighty rank and file Europeans, and 
 seventy rank and file sepoys, two small cohorns, and a parly of 
 Bengal gun lascars. Having driven the enemy from the strong 
 post of Kalloagille, where they were stationed in considerable 
 force under the command of the new Dessauve of the four corles, 
 Captain Pollock passed Royberg without opposition, and halted 
 during the night at Aloot-Ambulam, six English miles beyond 
 
CANDIAN CAMPAIGN IN 1803. 
 
 237 
 
 Hangwell. On the tenth he proceeded by the strong post of 
 Pua Jutlia, which the enemy had abandoned, passed Avisa- 
 velly, and crossing the river, entered the Candian territories at 
 Scetavacca, twelve miles east and by south of Hangwell. Ad- 
 vancing three miles farther, in a north-east direction, he drove 
 the Candians from a strong battery at Epillapitty, where he 
 halted that night, and the following day, to give time for Captain 
 Buchan's detachment to arrive opposite to him at Minuangodda 
 on the north side of the Calany-ganga. Captain Buchan, at- 
 tended by Lieutenants James Campbell and D. ODonnel, had 
 passed from Negumbo through the Mootcoor, Mapitigam, and 
 Hina codes. He had overcome the extreme difficulties of the 
 road with great judgment and perseverance, and with little op- 
 position from the enemy, or the rebels. Near Mooguroogctm- 
 pelly an attempt was made to attack him by surprise, but he re- 
 pulsed the assailants, killed three of them, and took one prisoner. 
 
 While he was on his march, a party of thirty-six of the Ma- 
 lays taken at Candy joined him from the army of the second 
 Adigar, who was proceeding from the seven codes to join the 
 King at Ruanello. 
 
 On the morning of the 12th, both the British detachments 
 marched forward by different routes, and on opposite sides of 
 the river: that under Captain Pollock found the enemy posted 
 at ail the passes on the road, and very strong batteries erected 
 for their defence, from which they were driven with consider- 
 able slaughter, and only the loss of one gun lascar wounded 
 on our side. 
 
238 
 
 CANDIAN CAMPAIGN IN 1803 . 
 
 On arriving at the river near Ruanello, the opposite bank 
 was seen lined with batteries, and several pieces of cannon, 
 from which the enemy kept up a heavy fire of round and grape 
 shot, and a constant fire of musquetry. The remains of the 
 grand army of the Candians, which had been defeated at Hang- 
 well, was there assembled, reinforced by that which the second 
 Adigar had brought from the seven corles, and they seemed 
 determined to make an obstinate resistance. 
 
 Captain Pollock, not being sufficiently acquainted with the 
 state of the river to attempt fording it immediately, halted his 
 detachment a few minutes. When a ford was discovered, Cap- 
 tain Hankey and Lieutenant Mercer with the advance instantly 
 pushed over. In the first attack, twenty-six Candians, includ- 
 ing two mohottiars, were slain in a battery. The body of the 
 enemy gave way; the assailants pursued; and Captain Bu- 
 chan’s detachment, after sixteen days of constant marching, 
 appearing at this moment on the right flank of the Candian 
 arm}’-, it was thrown into great confusion, and the frightened 
 mountaineers fled in all directions. Had Captain Buchan got 
 up only one hour sooner, he would have fallen on the rear of 
 the enemy, who would then have experienced a more bloody 
 and fatal day. 
 
 On this occasion were taken from the enemy three light 
 six-pounders, one light three-pounder, two four-inch and three- 
 quarters mortars, with a large quantity of almost all kinds of 
 ammunition and ordnance stores. 
 
CANDIAN CAMPAIGN IN 1803. 
 
 239 
 
 These successes in some measure decided the fate of the 
 campaign. The King of Candy felt the impotence of all his 
 offensive preparations, and once more sought repose in the 
 bosom of his native mountains. 
 
 The two detachments proceeded with little more opposition 
 and joined one another at Ruanello, where they took up their 
 quarters for the night in a palace erected for the King, in an 
 elegant and sumptuous style, according to the Ceylonese taste. 
 The surrounding village, the most commercial and populous in 
 the country which was involved in war, then fell into our hands, 
 together with magazines, and stores of provisions, which the 
 King had long been preparing for this unfortunate expe- 
 dition. 
 
 Our loss, on all these occasions, was only three Europeans, 
 and two gun Lascars wounded. 
 
 Captain Pollock finding, next morning, that the enemy had 
 retreated into the interior of their territory, set fire to the pa- 
 lace and eleven hundred houses full of provisions: and, after 
 seeing them consumed, returned to Seetavacca and Avisavelly. 
 
 On the 14th, he came down to Hangwell, and on the loth, 
 both his and Captain Buchan’s detachments re-entered the fort 
 of Columbo. They brought with them three field pieces, and 
 a party of the gun lascars, who were rescued from the hands 
 of the Candians. 
 
 The countenances of these poor captives, restored to liberty, 
 and to the sight of a garrison where they had never been as- 
 sailed by sorrow, exhibited such signs of pious gratitude and 
 
240 
 
 CANDIAN CAMPAIGN IN 1803 . 
 
 joyful emotion, as raised feelings of a similar nature in the 
 hearts of many of the spectators. 
 
 The season of anxious suspense, at Columbo, was now 
 over : the horizon brightened: and lamentation and mourning 
 were, for a time, succeeded by thanksgiving and rejoicing. 
 
 The following general orders were issued by the Governor 
 on the 13lh of September 1803. 
 
 “ Captain William Pollock of His Majesty's 51st Regiment, 
 “ in command of a detachment from the Garrison of Columbo, 
 “ having, by a rapid succession of brilliant and important vic- 
 “ tories driven the grand army of the Candians, commanded 
 “ by the King in person, out Of the British Territories, taken 
 “ all their Artillery, and their Royal Standard ; recovered from 
 “ them many of the Malays and Gun Lascars, who were made 
 “ prisoners by treachery at Candy, and finally seized the Ma- 
 “ gazines and Stores prepared by them, at Ruanello, within 
 “ their own limits, His Excellency the Governor is unable to 
 “ express, in adequate terms, his lively sense of the great 
 “ services rendered to his Government by that distinguished 
 “ Officer, and the small, but heroic detachment which he com- 
 “ mands. 
 
 “ He requests him, however, to accept his thanks, and to 
 “ communicate them to Captain John Buchan of His Majesty's 
 “ Ceylon Native Infantry, Captain Frederick Hankey of His 
 “ Majesty’s 19th Regiment, and all the Officers who have so 
 “ nobly seconded his exertions, as well as to Mr. John Orr, 
 “ Assistant Surgeon of the Bengal Artillery, for the signal ser- 
 
CANDIAN CAMPAIGN IN 1803. 
 
 241 
 
 vice rendered by him in taking charge of the Lascars whom 
 “ we recovered from the enem}' . 
 
 “ His Excellency further desires Captain Pollock to assure 
 “ the non-commissioned officers and privates of his high appro- 
 “ bation of their spirited and exemplary conduct." 
 
 While our success against the Candians was so rapid in the 
 south-west corner of the island, it was no less effectual along 
 the eastern coast. 
 
 By the exertions of the Officers in the districts of Galle and 
 Matura the enemy was completely driven from those territo- 
 ries; and the Ceylonese subjects of Great Britain, enlightened, 
 by recent events, with regard to the resources of our govern- 
 ment, returned to their duty with every testimony of submission 
 and.respect. 
 
 The districts of Putlam and Chilauw were restored to per- 
 fect tranquillity ; and the roads being open, the north mails, 
 which had been for some time past dispatched by sea, were 
 now forwarded in their usual channel. 
 
 The little fort of Hambangtotte, about thirty miles north- 
 east of Tengalle, had been in a state of blockade on the land 
 side since the 23d of August; but an armed vessel moored in 
 the harbour afforded a secure retreat by sea in case of neces- 
 sity. The garrison consisted of sixty invalid Malays, com- 
 manded by Ensign John Pendergast. During the blockade he 
 made several sorties which were attended with uniform success, 
 drove the enemy from their advanced batteries, and took from 
 them seven Cingalese guns, without any loss on our side. 
 
 2 i 
 
 VOL. II. 
 
242 
 
 CANDIAN CAMPAIGN IN 1803. 
 
 By the 2?th of August they had approached in larger bo- 
 dies, erected one large battery on a hill behind the lort, and 
 live of a smaller size along the beach within gun-shot of the 
 Snow Minerva, the vessel then stationed in Magam bay. En- 
 sign Pendergast determined to attack the post on the hill before 
 day light on the morning of the 28th, and having communi- 
 cated his intention, by a signal,, to Mr. John M‘Nicol, com- 
 mander of the Snow, he hauled his vessel as close as possible 
 to the enemy's batteries on the shore. Captain M‘Nicol was 
 thus enabled to cover the advance of the Malays to the great 
 Candian battery, to which he directed his fire until he saw that 
 the party had carried the post, and put the Candians to flight. 
 He then pointed his guns at the numerous batteries on the 
 beach, which had been keeping up a heavy fire at the vessel; 
 and a few rounds of well-directed shot made them all retreat 
 with terror. Their flight was so rapid that the superannuated 
 Malays were not able to overtake them. They, however, suf- 
 fered considerably by their fire, as well as that of the Snow, 
 for they were seen running in all directions carrying off their 
 wounded and slain. All their batteries were burned, and they, 
 immediately afterwards, retired from the district. 
 
 Captain Beaver having heard that Hambangtotte ivas at- 
 tacked, marched from Catoone on the 2pth of August, with 
 the force under his command to relieve the place. He arrived 
 there on the 6ih of September, but the blockade had already 
 been raked by the spirited and judicious sortie of Ensign Pen- 
 dergast supported by the co-operation of Captain M‘Nicol. 
 
CA'NDIAN CAMPAIGN IN 1803. 
 
 243 
 
 On the 9th of September the garrison received a reinforce- 
 ment of one corporal and eight men of the Royal Regiment of 
 Artillery, from His Majesty’s Frigate Wilhelmina, which had 
 put into Hambangtotte road, on her way to Point de Galle. 
 
 The Candians invaded the province of Batticaloe, and suc- 
 ceeded in raising an almost general insurrection amongst its 
 inhabitants. Joseph Smith, Esq. Agent of Revenue, conducted 
 a successful expedition against them on the 3d of September, 
 killed eight of the rebels, and dispersed the others. 
 
 Two months afterwards the Candians and rebellious in- 
 habitants were driven to the frontiers by Lieutenant Arthur 
 Johnston of the 19th regiment. lie seized many of the rebels 
 who were tried at Batticaloe, and one of them was executed. 
 The greater part of the inhabitants returned to their houses, 
 and the head men of the rebels took shelter in the mountains. 
 Such was the tranquillity of the countr} r , that the communica- 
 tion by post was re-established between Batticaloe and Trin- 
 comallee. 
 
 The Pandara Wannian, a chief of one of the British pro- 
 vinces, avIio had once been pardoned for rebellion, again 
 revolted, and, with the assistance of a large body of CandianSj 
 at one time, nearly overran all the northern districts. 
 
 On the approach of his troops towards the village of Cot- 
 tiar, a small party of the Malay regiment, stationed there, 
 found it necessary to retreat. But that important tract of 
 country was almost immediately recovered, and the enemy 
 driven beyond the frontier by the light company of His Ma- 
 
244 
 
 CANDIAN CAMPAIGN IN 1803. 
 
 jesly’s 19tli regiment of foot, which was detached for that pur- 
 pose from Trincomallee. 
 
 On the 25th of August, the Candians, in great force, 
 attacked the Government-House at Moletivoe, which being 
 untenable, Captain Driberg of the invalid Malays, withdrew 
 the few soldiers, who were stationed at that post, in good order, 
 to boats, which had been sent thither to secure his retreat, and 
 carried them in safety to Jaffnapatam. 
 
 Two numerous parlies of rebels and Candians penetrated 
 into the province of Jaffna as far as Chundicolum, and the 
 Elephants’ Pass. From the former place they were driven by 
 a small party of the 34th regiment, commanded by Lieutenant 
 Downing, who was detached from Jaffnapatam, and succeeded 
 in burning and destroying the magazines collected by them. 
 
 The other party surrounded the small redoubt at Elephants’ 
 Pass, and unfortunately surprised one European soldier, and 
 two privates of the Jaffnapatam independent company, whom 
 they barbarously murdered. 
 
 They remained there for a day and a night, but retired on 
 the approach of Lieutenant Jewell of the 19th regiment, with 
 a detachment from the garrison of Jaffnapatam, of which place 
 he was then commandant. Next day the enemy entirely eva- 
 cuated that valuable district. 
 
 The Pandara Wannian came down, in person, towards Ver- 
 tivoe, with a great force, but retreated almost immediately on 
 the approach of Major William Vincent of His Majesty s 19fh 
 regiment, with a part of ihc Manaar independent company. 
 
I 
 
 CANDIAN CAMPAIGN IN 1803 . 245 
 
 By the active and judicious exertions of that officer, the dis- 
 trict of Manaar was soon entirely cleared of the enemy. 
 
 At this period disaffection grew apace amongst the princi- 
 pal courtiers and subjects of the King of Candy. They had 
 been for some time irritated by the murder of the Dessauve 
 Leuke, and other acts of cruelty. The widows of that noble- 
 man, and of the minister who was killed with him at Royberg, 
 having been refused permission by the King to come down to 
 the place of their husbands’ death, to collect their remains, and 
 perform the last duties, were said to have laid violent hands 
 upon themselves. The whole Candian country was represented 
 to be, at the same time, in a state of the greatest misery and 
 terror. 
 
 The enemy was driven from Molelivoe and its neighbour- 
 hood by a detachment sent from Trincomallee, under the 
 command of Captain Edward Madge of His Majesty’s 19th 
 regiment; and Comarasegra, Modelear of Moletivoe, strongly 
 suspected of treason, was taken prisoner. 
 
 Another detachment also arrived there from Jaffnapatam, 
 under the command of Lieutenant John Jewell of His Ma- 
 jesty’s 19th regiment, having burned, on its march, some strong 
 works thrown up by the enemy, and seized a considerable 
 quantity of their cattle. 
 
 A third detachment marched from Manaar on the 27th of 
 October, for the purpose of co-operating with those sent from 
 Trincomallee and Jaffna. It was commanded by Captain Fre- 
 derick-^ illiam Yd’n Driberg of the invalid Malays. He had 
 
CAXDIAN CAMPAIGN rx 1803. 
 
 24 6 
 
 the good fortune to surprise the Pandara YV annian's troops at 
 Cutchilamadu about five o clock in the morning of the 31st: 
 killed a great many of his people, took forty-six prisoners, and 
 got possession of one Cingalese gun, mounted on a low car- 
 riage, carrying a ball of one pound and a half weight, fifty-five 
 stand of arms, twelve pikes, two swords, two creeses, one bay- 
 onet, one barrel, and two baskets of ammunition. Sixteen 
 houses, in which the Chief of the Wanny had lodged his pro- 
 visions, were burned, and his people were dispersed in different 
 directions through the woods. 
 
 Captain Driberg and Lieutenant Jewell proceeded to Trin- 
 comallee; and, after arriving there, set out on two separate 
 expeditions to clear the Wanny district of the remains of the 
 enemy, and to restore the public tranquillity. In these objects 
 they perfectly succeeded, having overcome, with the greatest 
 perseverance and ability^, the various impediments with which 
 they met from the heavy rains and Hooded state of the country. 
 
 Intelligence having been received at head-quarters, early in 
 October, that the first Adiganof Candy had assembled a very 
 considerable force at Buddha Gedera in the Saffragam corle, 
 with an intention of invading the British territories, Captain 
 William Macpherson of His Majesty’s 12th regiment of foot, 
 Brigade Major to General Macdowall, was detached with a 
 party to disperse his army. The detachment consisted of Lieu- 
 tenants Mercer and Keyt of His Majesty’s 51st regiment, four 
 Serjeants, fifty rank and file Europeans, seventy Malays, fifty 
 sepoys, two cohorns, four men of the Bengal artillery, and a 
 
CANDIAN CAMPAIGN IN 1803 . 
 
 247 
 
 complement of gun lascars, accompanied by Thomas Christie, 
 Esq. chief surgeon, and arrack and provisions for fourteen days 
 carried on elephants and coolies. 
 
 Captain Macpherson marched from Col umbo, in a south- 
 east direction, at five o’clock A. M. on the 6‘tli of October. At 
 seven A. M. he halted at Panameady, a tine village situate on 
 the banks of the Capapowella river, about half way between 
 Galkisse and Cotta, and five miles from Columbo. The road 
 was sandy, and lay chiefly through the cinnamon plantations. 
 He marched again at two P. M. through a wild jungle, about 
 three passed the village of Barralorgami, and, at half past 
 four arrived at Bokoondera, a considerable village. 
 
 On the 7th, at five o’clock A. M. he resumed his march, 
 and at half past seven reached Amblamgoddy. The weather 
 was fine, and the road good, through a populous and culti- 
 vated country. He marched again at two P. M. and arrived 
 at Puttawatta at half past four. The road and country con- 
 tinued of the same description, and still higher cultivation 
 appeared on advancing into the Rygam code, which com- 
 mences two miles beyond Bokoondera. One field was neatly 
 dressed, and fun-owed, with a row of yams on each ridge. At 
 Puttawatta there is a ruin, which is said to have been the resi- 
 dence of a Cingalese King, who tied from Cotta when the 
 Portuguese attacked that place. 
 
 On the 8th, the detachment marched at six o’clock A. M. 
 At ten halted at Kalloopahan, distant eight miles. The first 
 part of the road was good, and had evidently been made with 
 
248 ? CANDIAN CAMPAIGN IN 1803 . 
 
 care: the latter part was through a thick jungle, hilly, and fre- 
 quently intersected with nullahs, or ravines. Close to the Rest- 
 House the troops crossed the river Maha Oia by a wooden 
 bridge, but the elephants and horses forded it. About half 
 way on this stage, they passed a considerable building, said to 
 be a Dutch church, but built of the materials, and evidently 
 on the foundation of a Cingalese temple. Close to it stood a 
 number of upright pillars, consisting of one stone each, similar 
 to those at Dondera-FIead. At two o’clock P. M. the detach- 
 ment resumed its march, and at five arrived at NambyPaan, 
 on the banks of the Kallu-ganga, the opposite side of which 
 marks the limits of the Candian territory. The road, which 
 the troops marched this afternoon, was in pretty good repair; 
 but through a wild uncultivated country, frequently intersected 
 with ravines, and deep rivulets. The Rest-House at Namby- 
 Paan is comfortable, and was, for some time before, occupied 
 by one of our watches, consisting of a Cangaany, and three 
 Lascoreens, who reported that the Candians never entered the 
 British territory at this place, but that their watches were close 
 at hand. The Kallu-ganga is here both broad and deep, and 
 the banks, on both sides, are covered with wood. The banks 
 are very high, not less than ten feet above the present level of 
 the water. They are, however, often overflown after heavy 
 rains. The Rest-House is, on this account, raised upon wooden 
 pillars about four feet above the level of the ground. The 
 troops halted in an open, cleared space, to which there is only 
 one entrance from the Candian frontier, and it is protected by 
 
CANDIAN CAMPAIGN IN 1803 . 
 
 249 
 
 two considerable ravines, where a picquet was posted, consist- 
 ing of six Europeans and twelve natives. 
 
 On the morning of the 9th of October arrangements were 
 made for leaving the elephants at this place, with a detachment 
 of twenty Malays and sepoys under a native officer. At one 
 o’clock P. M. Don Adrian, Modelear of the guides, returned 
 from reconnoitring the enemy, and reported to Captain Mac- 
 pherson that the Adigar, with a large body of Candians, had 
 crossed the Callu-ganga higher up, and was advancing to meet 
 the British party. The troops, in consequence of this infor- 
 mation, set out immediately, the van guard consisting of eigh- 
 teen Europeans, and twelve natives. The roads through which 
 they passed were more difficult than any that had previously 
 been experienced by British soldiers on the island. The way 
 was frequently intersected by deep ravines, and, in some places, 
 it was formed by large stones, piled like steps, ascending and 
 descending steep rocks. Some Candian batteries and watch- 
 houses were destroyed, and two Candians were taken prisoners. 
 After a most laborious march of two days, the detachment 
 arrived on the banks of the Coura-ganga, nearly at the place 
 where it falls into the Callu-ganga, commonly called the river 
 of Caltura. The Coura-ganga is there about sixty feet broad, 
 the stream rapid, and the banks rocky and steep. A narrow 
 wooden bridge is thrown over it, but was, at that time, in so 
 bad repair, that scarcely a single man, without a load, could 
 pass along it. By three o’clock P.M. it was rendered passable, 
 although still so difficult, that it took from that hour until 
 
 VOL. II. 
 
 2 K 
 
250 
 
 CANDIAN CAMPAIGN IN 1803. 
 
 six P. M. before the small detachment and baggage were got 
 across. The horses swam, assisted by withes made into a strong 
 warp, by which the men, who held the horses' bridles, pulled 
 themselves across. The party halted, on the opposite bank, 
 in the midst of thick brush wood, from the branches of 
 which the soldiers made some shelter from the rains, as tents 
 could not be conveyed. 
 
 On the following morning, (the 11th,) at six o’clock A.M. 
 the detachment resumed its march alone; the bank of the river 
 through a road almost as bad as before, and in many places 
 overflowed with water. After marching three miles, the road 
 became better, and the country put on a more cultivated 
 appearance, exhibiting many neat villages, surrounded with 
 groves of cocoa-nut trees, and fields of rice; all of which the 
 mode of warfare pursued, rendered it necessary to burn, and 
 destroy as much as possible. 
 
 In the course of the march, the advance fell in with several 
 picquets of the enemy, which, after exchanging a few shot, be- 
 took themselves to flight. About noon the party halted at 
 Cahangamma. Soon afterwards a boat came across the river 
 with three native Cingalese, who said that they belonged to the 
 Rygam-corle, that they had been at Buddhagedera in the 
 capacity of merchants, that the town was deserted by the Adi- 
 gar and his followers, and that there was no enemy in the 
 neighbourhood, besides the picquets which had lately fled. The 
 march was resumed at half past two o’clock P. M. The first 
 part of the road was bad, but it became better as it approached 
 
CANDIAN CAMPAIGN IN 1803. 25 1 
 
 the Hindoo Pagoda of Saffragam, which the party passed about 
 four o'clock P. M. and proceeded to Ratana Puly, where it 
 arrived at five P. M. The road was newly made, and, in many 
 places, fresh turfs were turned up on each side of it, which is 
 a mark of respect always practised, in that country, on roads 
 where a great man is expected to travel. The Candians, in 
 small parties, fired occasionally from the midst of thickets, but 
 our troops advanced this far without any loss. The line halted, 
 and the van guard struck off a little to the right, when it im- 
 mediately received a fire of grasshopper guns, and musketry 
 from the opposite bank of the river. On this occasion one 
 private of the 51st regiment was severely wounded. But the 
 fire was soon silenced, by the throwing of a few shells from the 
 cohorns. Lieutenant C. W. Mercer was then sent, with a party 
 to the left, to set fire to the Resting-House of the Adigar, 
 which he effected, and returned without loss, although often 
 fired at from the opposite bank of the river, where the princi- 
 pal part of the town of Buddhagedera is situate. 
 
 The river, at this place, is broad, deep, and rapid. There 
 were no boats, or other means in readiness, for crossing it. 
 The stock of arrack and provisions was extremely small. The 
 rain fell in large quantities. The rivers began to swell, and 
 there w r as reason to apprehend that the Candians would attempt 
 to cut away the bridges. From these considerations, Captain 
 Macpherson determined to march his detachment back to Saff- 
 ragam. The party moved in three divisions, the doolies and 
 baggage, for the sake of security, being placed in the centre. 
 
252 
 
 C AND I AN CAMPAIGN IN 1803 . 
 
 A heavy fall of rain commenced before the march began., 
 and continued until near seven o’clock in the evening, when 
 the troops reached the Pagoda of Saffragam. This is a regular 
 Hindoo place of worship, built on the same plan as those on 
 the island of Ramisseram, and the continent of India: and is, 
 probably, of greater extent than any other which now remains 
 entire in Ceylon. The covered galleries, or low passages, with 
 rows of stone pillars on each side, are built in the form of a 
 cross, surrounded by an oblong area. The towers above the 
 gateways are buildings of much solidity, laboriously ornamented. 
 The Avhole is inclosed by a high stone wall, on the outside of 
 which is a broad street, bounded by a square of comfortable 
 houses, at each corner of which is a public choultry, or place 
 of accommodation for strangers. The apartments of the Pa- 
 goda afforded excellent shelter for the troops; who found, in 
 several chests, a greater quantity of silver and copper coins 
 than they were capable of carrying away. The Malays, pro- 
 bably from motives of superstition, refused to receive any share 
 of them: and almost all the indigent coolies disdained the 
 sacrilege of either entering the Pagoda, or touching the coin. 
 The idols had been removed, but a great many beautiful ele- 
 phants’ tusks, and other curious articles remained, which could 
 not be brought away. 
 
 The troops left Saffragam at half past five o’clock A. M. on 
 the 12th, and, after a fatiguing march, reached the Coura- 
 ganga at one P. M. and crossed the river by the bridge, which 
 was found in the same condition they had left it. Nothing of 
 
CANDIAN CAMPAIGN IN 1803 . 
 
 253 
 
 the enemy was seen, except a few stragglers on the opposite 
 banks, 'who did not attempt to offer any molestation. All the 
 houses and huts on the way were burned and destroyed by our 
 people. After having passed the river, they halted on the road 
 leading to Avisavelly, which turns to the right, between the 
 Callu, and the Coura-ganga. At half past four P. M. the 
 march was renewed towards Avisavelly, leaving the hill of Vel- 
 lihalligeta on the left. The road along which they travelled this 
 day was excellent and well made, being of a proper breadth, 
 and having thick brushwood and trees on each side. During 
 the Dutch government in the island, the superintendant of cin- 
 namon plantations performed a journey in this direction once 
 every six months. About half past five P. M. the party halted, 
 for the night, at the village of Mallooagalla, or Akounar, where 
 there were houses enough to afford shelter, and a considerable 
 number of well cultivated fields. All the way, and in every 
 direction, the thick woods are intersected by well beaten foot 
 paths, from which it may be concluded that there are, in the 
 neighbouring country, many hamlets and cleared spots well 
 inhabited. 
 
 The party marched on the 13th, at half past two o’clock 
 P. M. and, about half past five, halted at the village of Nacan- 
 della, distant five miles. It appeared to have been just deserted 
 by the inhabitants, and furnished abundance of accommoda- 
 tion for the troops. The gardens were w r ell stocked with cocoa- 
 nut and plantain trees, black pepper plants, and other useful 
 productions. The cattle were fat, and the surrounding fields 
 
254 
 
 CANDIAN CAMPAIGN IN 1803. 
 
 exhibited a very fertile appearance. It rained during the whole 
 march, but the road was good, although sometimes broken by 
 small ravines, winding through a beautiful valley clothed with 
 luxuriant herbage, bounded on the left by a range of moun- 
 tains, and on the right by woods and forests. One Candian 
 was surprised and taken prisoner in a hut near the road. He 
 gave information that the villagers had retired the day before 
 into the hills, and that he had ventured down only to fetch 
 away some rice for the use of his family. 
 
 On the morning of the 14th, the party marched nine miles 
 and a half to Avisavelly, where a British post was established, 
 and the necessary shelter provided. The road was irregular, 
 often interrupted by ravines, small hills, and lice fields over- 
 flowed with water. The appearance of the country was not so 
 beautiful as that which presented itself during the march of the 
 day before, but it was more cultivated, and all the houses were 
 inclosed in groves of cocoa-nut trees. Five miles from Nacan- 
 della a diminutive Pagoda was seen, but not destroyed. All 
 the other buildings on the road were burned to the ground. 
 Two miles farther on a fortified post of the enemy was dis- 
 covered, which appeared to have been raised in the preceding 
 February. This w r as set fire to, and after marching two miles 
 more, the Candian territory was left in the rear, and the troops 
 entered the Hewagam-corle, which is only separated from that 
 of Saffragam by a ravine. 
 
 During the whole period of this expedition, both officers 
 and men were extremely infested by small leeches, which 
 
Candian campaign in 1803 . 
 
 255 
 
 fastened on every part of their bodies, and drew blood, but 
 without occasioning much immediate pain, or any consequent 
 inflammation. 
 
 Avisavelly is a post situate on a branch of the Calany- 
 ganga, commonly called the Sitawak river, by which the Hew- 
 agam is separated from the three codes. Tt is only one mile 
 distant from the termination of the Saflragam code. The river 
 is about sixty yards broad, and is, at present, deep even close 
 to the banks. It was, however, fordable during the course of 
 the preceding month. 
 
 All the European soldiers, with the sick and infirm of the 
 detachment, were sent down to the Grand Pass at Columbo in 
 boats. The current ran at the rate of four miles an hour. 
 About three miles from Avisavelly, the Gitawak branch of the 
 river falls into the Calany-ganga, and one mile farther down 
 the Candian territory ends, and the river runs between the 
 Hina, and Hewagam codes, passing close by Hangwell, in its 
 course towards the sea. The Rest-House at Hangwell is made 
 a fortified post, which continues to be guarded by our troops. 
 After passing it, the banks of the river are low, covered with 
 wood, and but little varied. At Kadavilly, half way from 
 Hangwell to Columbo, another post is established; Captain 
 Macpherson, with the Malays and sepoys, marched by these 
 places, and finished their route on the 16th of October. 
 
 On the march made by this detachment eight hundred 
 Candian houses were destroyed, and in them a large quantity 
 of areka nuts and paddee. The object of this expedition was 
 
256 
 
 CANDIAN CAMPAIGN IN 1803. 
 
 executed as far as circumstances would allow: and the services 
 performed promised to assist in terminating the unpleasant 
 warfare, into which we had been forced by the conduct of our 
 savage enemies. 
 
 A detachment, of similar strength, was sent in the same 
 direction, early in December, under the command of Captain 
 Robert Moubray of his Majesty’s 80th regiment, Aide-de- 
 Camp to the Governor, and Acting Deputy Adjutant-general. 
 The great deficiency of Captains in the different regiments ren- 
 dered it necessary to employ those belonging to the staff of 
 the army. 
 
 Captain Moubray reached Buddhagedera, the object of 
 his march, on the 7th of December, after having experienced 
 considerable opposition at the two arduous passes of the Cu- 
 culoo and Curawetty mountains, boundaries between the Can- 
 dian and British territories. On the 8th, the detachment was 
 employed in burning and destroying all the houses, stores, and 
 gardens in the rich province of Saffragam. For its protection 
 all the Malays in the Candian service, as well as the inhabi- 
 tants of the Three and Four Cories, had been assembled, but 
 were dispersed with great slaughter by our troops. On the 
 12th, the detachment arrived at Hangwell, having however to 
 regret the loss of all its baggage, and thirteen men killed and 
 wounded, of which three were Europeans, the rest natives and 
 camp followers. 
 
 Lieutenant Maurice O’Connell of his Majesty’s 51st regi- 
 ment, commanding at Putlam, made, on the 30th of Novem- 
 
CANDIAN CAMPAIGN IN 1804. 
 
 257 
 
 ber last, an incursion into the Candian territory, in that neigh- 
 bourhood, at the head of sixty sepoys, and invalid Malays, 
 laid waste a considerable extent of country, burned and brought 
 away a great quantity of grain, and areka nuts, which the in- 
 habitants had been for some time collecting there for the use 
 of the Candian government, and destroyed a provision of salt, 
 which they had laid in, sufficient for the consumption of two 
 years. 
 
 Captain Robert Blackall of his Majesty’s 51st regiment, 
 about the middle of December, made an incursion from Ne- 
 gumbo into the seven corles. He reached Netty Polly Cadera, 
 the object of his march, with little obstruction; but the greater 
 part of the stores, collected there, had been removed. Bar- 
 racks for a great number of men, however, were burned, to- 
 gether with the residence of the Dessauve, who had fled towards 
 Candy on the approach of our troops. 
 
 The Candians still continued to harass us on the frontiers, 
 notwithstanding the measures taken to drive them into the in- 
 terior: and in the month of March in the following year, (1804) 
 they had made preparations for a general invasion of the Bri- 
 tish settlements. This, however, was prevented by a general 
 attack made by us on their own country, which proved on 
 every^ side successful, and terminated with scarcely any loss 
 on our part. After this some overtures from the second Adigar 
 induced the governor to send a priest of Buddha to Candy, to 
 discover the situation and sound the intentions of the court. 
 They were by no means such as would lead to an honourable 
 
 2 l 
 
 VOL. II. 
 
258 
 
 CANDIAN CAMPAIGN IN 1805 . 
 
 and secure peace. To accelerate that event, active operations 
 
 were again begun by us in the month of September, on every 
 
 side of the Candian dominions, particularly in the SafFragairi 
 
 corle, where the chief Adigar was residing at the head of a 
 
 considerable force, and in a slate of very doubtful amity with 
 
 the Kino-. This minister still endeavoured to continue his in- 
 © 
 
 trigues, but was, of course, not listened to by our government. 
 
 In October and November our troops returned into garrison. 
 New overtures were set on foot by us through private agents, 
 but these were put an end to by a general invasion of our terri- 
 tories by the Candians in February 1805. They were probably 
 induced to this measure by an idea that our troops were no 
 longer sufficient for our defence, as two battalions of Bengal 
 volunteers, which had been sent to Ceylon the preceding year 
 by the government-general of India, had returned to the con- 
 tinent. The military establishment of the island had however 
 been reinforced by his Majesty’s 66th regiment, by seven hun- 
 dred Caffrees, who were forming into a useful and hardy corps, 
 and b} 7 numerous levies of sepoys raised in the territories under - 
 the government of Madras; so that the strength of our gar- 
 risons enabled us to act with vigour and effect. The Candians 
 were completely routed, and retired from all quarters, with 
 great loss, into their own country. Soon afterwards, the first 
 Adigar hastened to the capital: all approach to it was shut up, 
 and the public was for three weeks kept in suspense as to the 
 motives of these extraordinary measures. It then appeared 
 that the King had been seized with the small-pox, and that, 
 
CANDIAN WAR. 
 
 259 
 
 during his illness, Pelime Talawve had reinstated himself in 
 the fullest authority. Indirect advances were soon after made 
 by the Candians for a tacit cessation of hostilities, which has 
 been acted upon ever since, and which, as it proceeds from 
 the fatigue and weakness of the enemy, may be considered as 
 durable as any written treaty. The most solemn treaty which 
 could be made, they would not hesitate to infringe on the first 
 favourable opportunity; and during the power of the present 
 King and Adigar, it is not easy for us to agree with honour to 
 a friendly alliance. 
 
 Deaths in Ceijlon in the year 1803, and beginning of 1804, ex- 
 clusive of the Garrison taken ill Candy. 
 
 Ilis Majesty’s 51st regiment, Thomas Anthony Reeder, Esq. 
 Surgeon; Lieutenant Patrick Campbell; Lieutenant Peter 
 Campbell; Lieutenant and Adjutant Abraham Robinson; Lieu- 
 tenant Alexander Moore; Lieutenant Henry Stamer; Lieu- 
 tenant Dominic O’Donnel; Lieutenant Maurice O’Connel. 
 
 His Majesty’s 65th regiment, Captain Edward Bullock; 
 Lieutenant William Ollenranshaw. 
 
 His Majesty’s 73d regiment, Lieutenant- Colonel B. G. 
 Barbut. 
 
 His Majesty’s 19th Regiment, Lieutenant-Colonel Hunter. 
 His Majesty’s Malay regiment, Captain Paul Carrington ; 
 Lieutenant Howe; Lieutenant Bousset; Lieutenant Dri- 
 
260 
 
 CANDIAN WAR. 
 
 berg; Lieutenant Sutherland; Ensign Moses; Ensign John 
 Grant; Adjutant Henderson. 
 
 His Majesty’s Ceylon Infantry, Lieutenant Valliere; Lieu- 
 tenant Laughton; Ensign Riddle. 
 
 East India Company’s Service, Major David Blair of the 
 Madras Infantry; Lieutenant Gellie of the Madras Artillery. 
 
 Ceylon Civil Service, Gavin Hamilton, Esq. Silvester 
 Gordon, Esq. Joseph Wright, Esq. Richard Bourne, Esq. 
 
 Charles Manage, Esq Schwallie, Escp Beauvoir Dobree, 
 
 Esq. Mr. William Keys, Sutler. 
 
CANDIAN WAR. 
 
 261 
 
 March of the Troops under Major-General Macdowall from Columbo 
 
 and back. 
 
 Date. 
 
 Encamped at 
 
 Distance. 
 
 
 
 
 1803. 
 
 Route to Candy. 
 
 M. 
 
 F. 
 
 Y. 
 
 Total. 
 
 
 January 3 1 . 
 
 Near Mootwal 
 
 4 
 
 2 
 
 110 
 
 M. 
 
 F. 
 
 Y. 
 
 February 2. 
 
 Jaelle (crossed the Mutwal in boats) .' 
 
 8 
 
 6 
 
 no 
 
 13 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 3. 
 
 Carrinagamme (crossed the Dandigam in boats) . . . 
 
 8 
 
 2 
 
 0 
 
 21 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 4. 
 
 Halpy 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 31 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 5. 
 
 Allogoolie 
 
 9 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 40 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 6. 
 
 Kattadenia 
 
 4 
 
 J 
 
 0 
 
 44 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 10 
 
 Malgamooa (crossed the Mahaoia fordable) 
 
 7 
 
 1 
 
 no 
 
 55 
 
 5 
 
 no 
 
 11. 
 
 Dambadenia 
 
 4 
 
 7 
 
 0 
 
 56 
 
 4 
 
 no 
 
 l6. 
 
 Kadroo Ellie 
 
 10 
 
 l 
 
 no 
 
 66 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 1 7- 
 
 Bank of the Magroo Oia (almost dry) 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 72 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 18. 
 
 Bank of the Dick Oia (then very shallow) 
 
 15 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 87 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 19- 
 
 Geeriegamme (Temple) 
 
 5 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 92 
 
 7 
 
 0 
 
 20. 
 
 Kattagostally 
 
 7 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 100 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 21. 
 
 Palace of Candy (crossed theMaharilla-ganga on rafts) 
 Route to Columlo. 
 
 2 
 
 6 
 
 10 
 
 103 
 
 1 
 
 10 
 
 April 1. 
 
 Geeriegamme from head quarters 
 
 9 
 
 6 
 
 110 
 
 112 
 
 7 
 
 120 
 
 2. 
 
 Bank of the Coss Pottoo Oia (a rivulet) 
 
 8 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 121 
 
 5 
 
 120 
 
 3. 
 
 D°. of the Veh Aoudoorior oia (almost dry) 
 
 10 
 
 1 
 
 55 
 
 131 
 
 6 
 
 175 
 
 4. 
 
 Wisnaweh (a granary) 
 
 11 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 143 
 
 4 
 
 175 
 
 6. 
 
 Geeriolih (crossed the Maha Oia (fordable) 
 
 13 
 
 2 
 
 165 
 
 157 
 
 0 
 
 100 
 
 7. 
 
 Allogoolih 
 
 10 
 
 1 
 
 no 
 
 167 
 
 1 
 
 210 
 
 8. 
 
 Kerinagamme 
 
 16 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 183 
 
 5 
 
 210 
 
 9- 
 
 Columbo (crossed the Dandigam & Mootwal rivers) 
 N. B. The conclusion is the General’s march. 
 The troops returned on the 11th. 
 
 21 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 205 
 
 3 
 
 210 
 
 March of Lieut. Col. Barbut’s Detachment from Trincomallee to Candy. 
 
 Date. 
 
 1803. 
 
 February 4. 
 
 5. 
 
 6 . 
 
 7. 
 
 8 . 
 
 9- 
 
 10 . 
 
 11 . 
 
 12 . 
 
 13. 
 
 14. 
 
 15. 
 
 16 . 
 1 7 - 
 18. 
 19- 
 20 . 
 
 Encamped at 
 
 Tamblegamme (by water) 
 Candelay 
 
 Halted 
 
 Jungle 
 
 Allataville 
 
 Jungle 
 
 Minary 
 
 Jungle 
 
 Gonava 
 
 Halted 
 
 Neragoma 
 
 Nalendy 
 
 Allola 
 
 Allatchie Gravilt 
 
 King’s Garden 
 
 Walla Poloa 
 
 Miles. 
 
 Total. 
 
 12 
 
 
 16 
 
 28 
 
 8 
 
 36 
 
 10 
 
 46 
 
 10 
 
 56 
 
 10 
 
 66 
 
 12 
 
 78 
 
 12 
 
 90 
 
 8 
 
 98 
 
 10 
 
 108 
 
 15 
 
 123 
 
 10 
 
 133 
 
 8 
 
 141 
 
 1 
 
 142 
 
CHAPTER V. 
 
 EXTRACTS FROM THE GENERAL MEDICAL REPORT OF THE TROOPS 
 SERVING IN CEYLON FOR THE MONTH OF APRIL 1803. 
 
 “ His Majesty’s 19 th Regiment. 
 
 “ Xiie men of his Majesty's 19th regiment remaining atTrinco- 
 mallee continue very healthy, and the detachment of the corps 
 serving in the Candian territory has hitherto suffered less from 
 sickness than the other European troops emploj-ed in that 
 country. The superior healthiness of the 19th regiment may, 
 I think, be attributed to three different causes, which have all 
 in a great degree contributed to render it less sickly than the 
 51st regiment, which has suffered so dreadfully. The first of 
 these is, that the 19th regiment consists chiefly of a remarkably 
 fine body of middle aged men, who have long been inured 
 to a hot climate, and accustomed to active service in the 
 field in different parts of India, while the 51st regiment is made 
 up in general of old men and boys, who have been in garrison 
 at Columbo almost constantly since their arrival in this coun- 
 try. The second of these is, their being habituated to the 
 particular climate of Trincomallee, which, in many respects, 
 resembles that of Candy, especially in the great variation of 
 temperature between the day and night, which is often at Trin- 
 comallee above twenty degrees of Farenheit's thermometer in 
 
MEDICAL REPORT IN APRIL 1803. 
 
 263 
 
 twenty-four hours, while at Columbo the uniformity of tem- 
 perature is so great, that in the course of the year, the ther- 
 mometer seldom varies fourteen degrees. The third cause, 
 which, I have no doubt, had great effect in preventing the 
 troops from Trincomallee being so sickly as those from Co- 
 lumbo, is, that the country through which they passed on the 
 eastern side of the island, has been found from present and 
 former experience to be much more healthy than the interior 
 of the western side of Ceylon, particularly the banks of the 
 Kaymelle river, and the Seven Cories, through which the march 
 of the troops from Columbo chiefly lay, where the country is 
 very woody, marshy, and low, until it rises at once in the 
 high mountains of Galle Gederah, and Geeriegamme. The 
 ascent on the other side of the island is more gradual, and the 
 country through which the troops marched is drier, abounding 
 less in wood, and not lying on the banks of any great river, 
 which, in the interior of this island, and other parts of India, 
 are in general observed to be unhealthy. 
 
 “ The disease from which most of the men of the 19th have 
 died has been Berry-berry, a species of dropsy combined with 
 great debility, and frequent spasms, the occurrence and mor- 
 tality of which among the European troops at Trincomallee, 
 with the best mode of cure and prevention, I have had fre- 
 quent occasion to mention in former reports. 
 
 “ Mr. Hope, assistant-surgeon of the 19th regiment, in 
 charge of the detachment at Candy, has been very attentive 
 in sending me a regular account of his practice in each case, 
 
264 
 
 MEDICAL REPORT IN APRIL 1803 . 
 
 and from his journal it appears that the malignancy of fever 
 has been much less among the 19th at Candy, than in the 51st 
 regiment/’ 
 
 Twenty men of the 19th regiment died this month. 
 
 “ His Majesty s 5 1 st Regiment. 
 
 “ The very remarkable mortality in this corps may be at- 
 tributed, in some degree, to the hard duty, privation of com- 
 forts, and the climate to which they were exposed in Candy, 
 but still more to the nature of the country through which they 
 marched on their return to Columbo, the baneful influence of 
 which has been most strikingly exemplified in the detachment 
 of the 65lh regiment, employed, for a very short time, on the 
 frontiers of Candy. 
 
 “ The town of Candy is situate in a small plain, which is 
 surrounded on every side by high mountains, almost entirely 
 covered with trees, brushwood and jungle. The climate is 
 humid, and the degree of temperature between the day and 
 night very variable: the thermometer ranging frequently in the 
 course of twenty-four hours from 69° to 95°; so that hot sultry 
 days were frequently succeeded by cold chilly nights, and 
 heavy morning fogs. The variation of temperature was, how- 
 ever, still more remarkable on the banks of the large rivers 
 Kaymelle, and Mahavilla-ganga; and I am apt to believe that 
 the 5 1st regiment, even when stationed in Candy, suffered 
 much from taking the duty of a picquet at Gonaroovah on the 
 banks of the Mahavilla-ganga, as I have constantly observed 
 
MEDICAL REPORT 1 19 APRIL 1803. 
 
 265 
 
 in the course of the campaign, that all detachments or gar- 
 risons, stationed on the banks of the great rivers, have suffered 
 most remarkably from their proximity. The diet of the men 
 at Candy consisted almost solely of beef and rice, without any 
 admixture of fresh vegetables, and but little addition of spice, 
 or other condiment. This is by no means a healthy diet, and 
 will readily be conceived to predispose to many diseases, par- 
 ticularly to Berry-berry, which lias, at different times, been so 
 extremely fatal to the troops in Ceylon, and to which com- 
 plaint it will be found that the greater number of deaths that 
 occurred in Candy are to be attributed. Among the causes 
 of disease in the troops at Candy, we ought certainly to men- 
 tion the constant and hard duty, particularly on working par- 
 ties, to which the men were subjected by the exigencies of the 
 service, at a time when they were limited to half the quantity 
 of spirituous liquor usually issued to them in barracks, and 
 almost totally deprived of tobacco, to the liberal use of which 
 they had almost all been accustomed. These causes appear 
 sufficient to account for the number of sick left in Candy, and 
 must be supposed to create a disposition to disease in all the 
 men of the 5 1st; but for the more immediate cause of the veiy 
 severe and fatal fever with which the men were almost univer- 
 sally attacked on the march, and after their return to garrison, 
 we must look to the nature of the country through which the 
 army passed on their return to Columbo, and to the climate 
 and weather to which they were exposed on their march. 
 
 “ The road from Candy to Columbo lies chiefly through the 
 
 VOL. II. 
 
 2 M 
 
266 
 
 MEDICAL REPORT IN APRIL 1803. 
 
 province of the seven corles, and along the banks of the Kay- 
 melle, which, as has been hinted, is a low marshy country 
 abounding in wood, and consequently in many places covered 
 with a layer of decayed vegetable matter, which by the gene- 
 ration and extrication of foul and inflammable air, is known to 
 vitiate the atmosphere so highly, particularly in situations where 
 the miasmata cannot be dispelled by the sun or wind, that 
 a disease of the greatest malignancy is often produced by even 
 a few hours exposure to its influence. 
 
 “ The 51st regiment marched from Candy on the 1st of 
 April, and arrived at Columbo on the 11th of that month. 
 They generally struck their tents very early in the morning, 
 but owing to the weakly state of the men, and difficulty of 
 getting on the sick and baggage, they seldom reached their 
 encamping ground till nearly noon, and were thus necessarily 
 exposed to fatigue and the heat of the sun during the day, and 
 to cold dews, and a vitiated atmosphere at night. These are 
 the most common causes of remittent fever in hot climates: 
 and troops emploj^ed in the interior of Ceylon must at all times 
 be in a considerable degree subjected to their operation, and 
 suffer much in consequence; but, in the present instance, the 
 malignity and universality of this fever was so great, that in 
 enumerating the ordinary causes of disease, we must mention 
 an uncommonly unhealthy season which has occasioned the 
 greatest mortality among the natives of the country, as well 
 as among the troops employed in the field. 
 
 “ The inhabitants attribute the unhealthiness of the season, 
 
MEDICAL REPORT IN APRIL 1803. 
 
 26 7 
 
 in a great degree, to the long drought and late setting in of the 
 usual monsoon, or strong south-west winds attended with heavy 
 rain. During December, January, February, and March, there 
 was scarcely a shower in the interior or western side of Ceylon, 
 and the rain only commenced partially in April, when the troops 
 were on their march. From my diary I observe, that we had 
 rain on the 2d, 3d, 4th, 6lh, and 8th of April, without any 
 wind, and I am convinced that the troops on their march down, 
 suffered much from this state of the weather. For although 
 great falls of rain that lay the country under water, generally 
 check and put a stop to the progress of this fever, it will rea- 
 dily be conceived that a few showers, after a long drought, 
 must be prejudicial, not only by exposing the men to wet and 
 cold, but by stirring up and moistening the decayed vegetable 
 matter, promoting the extrication of unwholesome vapours, 
 and consequently vitiating the atmosphere. 
 
 “ The fever from which the troops from Candy have suf- 
 fered so dreadfully, as it has equalled in its ravages the yel- 
 low fever of the West Indies, has ilso in its symptoms closety 
 resembled that exterminating malady, as it has been described 
 by different authors. We have here had the same excessive 
 depression of spirits and strength, restlessness, anxiety, op- 
 pression, delirium, coma, distressing, bilious, and even black 
 vomiting, and above all the same extreme yellowness of the 
 skin and eyes which has given the name to the disease in the 
 West Indies. 
 
 “ The practice of the different English surgeons has been 
 
268 
 
 MEDICAL REPORT IN APRIL 1803. 
 
 pretty uniform in this fever, and although, from its extreme 
 malign it}’, the mortality has been very great, yet the remedies 
 employed have evidently, in a great many instances, saved the 
 patients, and snatched them from the jaws of death; and we 
 have reason to be satisfied, after an extensive experience and 
 trial of a variety of medicines, that the practice now generally 
 approved, and almost universally adopted throughout India, 
 has answered much better than any other. 
 
 “ This consists a good deal in arresting the progress of the 
 fever by the affection of the system with mercury, which, when 
 accomplished, seldom fails to put an end to the disease, or 
 greatly relieve its symptoms. Other means of cure have, at 
 the same time, been assiduously employed, such as emetics, 
 purgatives, antimonial and saline medicines in the early stage 
 of the disease, throwing in bitters and bark during the remis- 
 sions, preventing the violence of the accessions of fever by the 
 timely use of opium, supporting the strength of the patient 
 with wine and nourishment, watching the state of the bowels, 
 and rousing the system when necessary by blisters and other 
 stimulants. 
 
 “ The best preventive against this fever, is, I believe, regu- 
 lar and good living, with the moderate use of wine, spirits, and 
 tobacco, if formerly accustomed to these, preserving the bowels 
 in a regular, and rather open state; avoiding exposure to the 
 heat of the sun, and night dews or rain, as much as possible, 
 and, if necessarily exposed to them, guarding against their per- 
 nicious effects, by proportioning the warmth of the clothing to 
 
MEDICAL REPORT IN A PRIL 1803. 
 
 269 
 
 the degree of temperature. The class of men who, I think, 
 have hitherto been most exempt from fever, are the officers of 
 the general staff, and the medical men, who, although they 
 suffered much fatigue and anxiety during the day, had no night 
 duty to perform, and generally slept in bed. The affection of 
 the system with mercury, though so successful in stopping the 
 progress of the fever, has no effect in preventing it when em- 
 ployed between the time of exposure to the cause of disease, 
 and the time of its appearance. In proof of this I may men- 
 tion that many of the men came down from Candy with Berry- 
 berry, and other diseases requiring mercury, by the use of 
 which their original complaints were cured, but, at the usual 
 time, they were generally seized with fever, which among them 
 was extremely fatal in consequence of their being debilitated 
 by former disease. 
 
 “ The most common time of the fever’s appearance after 
 exposure to the miasmata, is ten, twelve, or fourteen days, as 
 may be particularly remarked with respect to the detachment 
 of the 6'5th regiment; but it often also appears sooner, and in 
 some few instances occurred even eighteen or twenty days after 
 the return of the troops to garrison, but after an interval of this 
 length, every individual may be considered as safe from an 
 original attack, although relapses take place at a much later 
 period. 
 
 “ It may be of use in a military, as well as a medical point 
 of view, to remark, that, after very attentive observation, I am 
 now convinced that both original attacks and relapses have 
 
270 MEDICAL REPORT IN APRIL 1803. 
 
 occurred more frequently about the full and change of the^ 
 moon than at other times, but whether this may be attributed 
 to the frequent unsettled state of the weather at these periods, 
 or to a fixed determined influence which that body, in its re- 
 volutions, exercises over the human constitution, as in the case 
 of the tides, I am at a loss to determine. The latter is the 
 opinion of Doctor Balfour and- some other eminent physicians, 
 who have adduced many facts to prove it, in the belief of 
 which, I confess, I was rather incredulous, until induced to 
 attend to the truth of the hypothesis by my own observations 
 in this prevailing fever. 
 
 “ It is so far fortunate, that this disease has never, in the 
 smallest degree, shewn itself to be contagious, as, notwithstand- 
 ing the necessarily crowded state of the hospitals, no single 
 instance has occurred of an attendant’s being seized with the 
 fever who had not on the march been exposed to the vitiated 
 atmosphere, and other exciting causes.” 
 
 Eighty-seven men of the 51st died this month. 
 
 “ His Majesty s 65tli Regiment. 
 
 Extract from the Surgeon’s Remarks. 
 
 “ The fever which has been so fatal to the 65th regiment, 
 “ during the month of April, has surpassed in violence any 
 “ disease of the same nature I ever witnessed in India. In its 
 “ first attack it bore a close resemblance to the common bili- 
 “ ous remittent fever, to which the European constitution is so 
 
MEDICAL REPORT IN APRIL 1803. 
 
 271 
 
 “ remarkably subject in India, when exposed to a hot sun dur- 
 “ ing the day, and a highly vitiated atmosphere in the night. 
 “ The mortality attending it however has been much greater 
 “ than in any former instance, and may, in my opinion, be 
 <e ascribed to three circumstances: the peculiar malignity of 
 44 the disease itself; the youth and habit of body of the soldiers 
 44 of the 65th, who are all young men unaccustomed to a hot 
 “ climate, and to their want of medical assistance on the first 
 “ attack of the fever. The different detachments of the regi- 
 “ ment employed on the late service amounted in all to three 
 “ officers, and eighty-three non-commissioned officers and pri- 
 44 vales, of which number scarcely one man has escaped the 
 “ disease. On a reference to the journal it will be seen that 
 “ several men of the first party who came from Fort Frederic, 
 
 44 were, on their admission into the hospital, so far exhausted 
 
 \ 
 
 44 by it as to preclude the possibility ol receiving benefit from 
 44 medicine, and died in the course of one or two days. In 
 “ many other cases it has terminated fatally before the end of 
 44 the month, and the remainder, although included in the 
 “ column 4 Relieved/ continue to labour under a most severe 
 44 disease, which, judging from the experience of the preceding 
 44 month, will most likely prove fatal to a great proportion of 
 44 the number. In the treatment of these men I have followed 
 “ the plan now generally adopted in India, and had the satis- 
 44 faction to observe, that, on the system becoming affected with 
 “ mercury, there was, in almost every instance, an immediate 
 44 relief of the most distressing symptoms, such indeed as I 
 
272 
 
 MEDICAL REPORT IN APRIL 1803. 
 
 “ had hitherto been accustomed to regard as a complete solu- 
 “ tion of the disease. Relapses, however, were experienced 
 “ in every case, attended by the most obstinate irritability of 
 “ the stomach, and in some instances with dysenteric symp- 
 “ toms, which frequently appeared to be the immediate causes 
 “ of death. During the course of the disease the usual pal- 
 “ liatives were employed for particular symptoms, and in every 
 “ case in which the state of the stomach would admit of it, 
 “ wine and a nourishing diet were freely given.” 
 
 The detachment of the both regiment, which has suffered 
 so dreadfully from the fever, marched from Columbo on the 
 13th of March, and were principally stationed at Fort Frederic, 
 where they arrived on the 17th of March. For the first ten 
 days scarcely a man complained, but after that period they fell 
 ill so rapidly, that when I visited them on the 6th of April, on 
 the march of the army through Fort Frederic, 1 found that not 
 one person of the whole detachment stationed there was free 
 from fever. It appears that there is something peculiarly pes- 
 tilential in the climate of Fort Frederic, as besides the detach- 
 ment of the 65th, almost every person who was stationed there 
 for even a few days, has had a severe and generally fatal at- 
 tack: this may, I believe, be attributed to the particularly 
 damp, low, and close situation of Katadenia, which seems 
 peculiarly calculated to promote the formation of a vitiated 
 atmosphere. 
 
 Fort Frederic (Katadenia) is about thirty miles from the 
 sea coast, on the banks of the Kaymelle river. The sur- 
 
MEDICAL RERORT IN APRIL 1803 . 
 
 273 
 
 rounding country is marshy and covered with jungle, and the 
 Post itself is built in a low situation, for the convenience of a 
 canal, by means of which the boats with grain and other 
 articles can be brought up to the doors of the store-houses. 
 The water of the river is, in some places, impregnated with 
 vegetable matter from the trees that overhang it, but in other 
 respects is pure and wholesome. As to climate, the air was in 
 general extremely moist, and the variation in temperature be- 
 tween the day and night very considerable; Farenheit’s ther- 
 mometer often ranging in the course of twenty-four hours from 
 69° to 99°. The fogs in the night and morning were in conse- 
 quence extremely thick and heavy. 
 
 The remarkable mortality amongst the 65th detachment 
 may, I think, with great propriety be attributed to the causes 
 enumerated by Mr. Orr. The second is in proof that, if pos- 
 sible, we ought to avoid employing raw unseasoned troops on 
 actual service in this country. The third, viz. the want of me- 
 dical assistance in the commencement of the disease, which 
 was owing to both the medical men who were sent to Fort 
 Frederic being seized with the prevailing fever, shews us the 
 necessity of an active practice in this complaint, proportioned 
 to the malignancy of the symptoms, for we have generally 
 found, that such cases as were from accident or neglect trifled 
 with in the first instance, have terminated fatally. 
 
 Mr. Orr has much merit in having persevered during the 
 present sickly season, in keeping a- full and regular journal of 
 his practice in every case, agreeably to the regulations esta- 
 
 VOL. II. 2 ]\f 
 
 / 
 
274 
 
 MEDICAL REPORT IN APRIL 1803. 
 
 blished for the medical department in this island by the late 
 Doctor Ewart, the utility of which has been strongly exempli- 
 fied during the prevalence of this epidemic fever, as, without 
 such assistance to the memory, I am well assured, from my 
 own experience, and the testimony of the other surgeons, that 
 it is impossible, in crowded hospitals, to conduct the practice 
 with regularity and precision, or to prescribe with any satis- 
 faction to the surgeon himself, or prospect of advantage to his 
 patient. 
 
 Thirty-one men of the 65th regiment died this month. 
 
 Detachments of Bengal and Madras Artillery stationed at Candy , 
 in charge of Assistant-Surgeon Henry Holloway. 
 
 The casualties among the artillery are rather greater in pro- 
 portion than among the 19th regiment stationed at Candy, 
 which I am apt to believe is in a considerable degree owing to 
 the detachment of Bengal artillery having caught the seeds of 
 infection on their march from Columbo to Candy. In proof 
 of this it ought also to be mentioned that two companies of the 
 19th regiment that marched by the same route, evidently suf- 
 fered more than those that came from the other side of the 
 island. Mr. Holloway, who, as garrison surgeon, had charge 
 of these detachments, as well as of all the sick left at Candy, 
 by the corps returning to Columbo, has evinced the greatest 
 attention to his duty during this dreadful season of sickness and 
 mortality; and, notwithstanding the great press of business. 
 
MEDICAL REPORT IN APRIL 1803. 275 
 
 has persevered in keeping a detailed and regular journal of his 
 practice in every case, which I have perused with the greatest 
 satisfaction. It bears the strongest testimony to his great abi- 
 lity and exertions, and is to me a convincing proof that the 
 sick left at Candy have enjoyed, for the cure of their com- 
 plaints, and alleviation of their distress, all the advantages 
 which great medical skill and ability, aided with most unre- 
 mitting zeal and humanity, could afford. 1 
 
 Seven men of these detachments died this month. 
 
 Detachment of Bengal Artillery stationed at Columho , in charge 
 of Assistant-Surgeon John Orr. 
 
 This small detachment has hitherto been fortunate in losing 
 no men since its return to Columbo, which may probably be 
 owing to its being composed of old seasoned soldiers, who have 
 long served in different parts of India, and experienced a 
 variety of climates. 
 
 Detachments of his Majesty s 80 th Regiment and Coast Artillery , 
 stationed at Trincomallee , in charge of Assistant-Surgeon Colin 
 Rogers. 
 
 One casualty occurred in the artillery at Trincomalle dur- 
 ing April, but at the end of the month no sick remained in 
 the small detachment, of Europeans under the charge of Mr. 
 
 a This young man so highly spoken of fell in the massacre at Candy. 
 
2 ? 6 
 
 MEDICAL REPORT IN APRIL 1803 . 
 
 Rogers, who also reports to me, that there have been no sick 
 amongst the lascars or pioneers remaining at Trincomallee dur- 
 ing the month of April. 
 
 The season at Trincomallee has been uncommonly healthy 
 this year, which is most probably owing to the same cause that 
 has contributed to render this side of the island more unhealthy 
 than usual, viz. the late setting in of the south-west monsoon, 
 which there forms the land wind and the dry season. 
 
 During a residence of four years at Trincomallee, I have 
 always observed that the season has been most healthy when 
 the rains fall early in November or December, and the setting 
 in of the south-west monsoon is late. In this case the north- 
 east monsoon, or sea wind, continuing to blow for several 
 months after the falling of the rain, the country is rendered in 
 a great degree dry, and the unhealthy vapours are dispersed 
 before the wind shifts to the south-west and blows over the 
 land, which in the neighbourhood of Trincomallee, is in many 
 parts marshy, and almost entirely covered with jungle. 
 
 The rains at Trincomallee commenced in November last, 
 and ceased early in January, since which time there has been 
 dry weather with a regular sea breeze, which continued to pre- 
 vail to the end of April, by means of which the unwholesome 
 vapours are blown from the Fort, and the stagnant w’ater will 
 be nearly dried up before the monsoon changes. 
 
 In the year 1797? on the contrary, during which the troops 
 suffered much from remittent fever and Berry-berry, the rains 
 fell late in the season, and the monsoon changed early in April, 
 
MEDICAL REPORT IN APRIL 1803. 277 
 
 so that there was much moisture in the jungle, and stagnant 
 water on the ground when the south-west wind set in, and 
 blowing over the land, carried the unwholesome vapours to- 
 wards the Fort, and produced diseases similar in their nature, 
 and almost equal in their malignity to those lately contracted 
 in the Candian territory. 
 
 His Majesty's Malay Regiment. 
 
 The men of the Malay corps atTrincomallee continue heal- 
 thy, and in the detachment doing duty at Candy, there has 
 been comparatively few casualties. This tends to prove an 
 observation I have frequently had occasion to make, that the 
 Malays are an uncommonly hardy race, and as soldiers pecu- 
 liarly filled for duties in which great fatigue and a privation of 
 
 » 
 
 comforts are expected. Besides their rice, the only luxury 
 they require, or what may wi th them be considered as a neces- 
 sary, is opium, which serves the same purpose to a Malay, as 
 drams to an European, or spices to natives of other descrip- 
 tions. 
 
 The following extract of a letter from Mr. Hall, giving some 
 account of the situation of Fort Macdowall, and of the state 
 of the health of the garrison during his stay there, will, I think, 
 prove interesting. 
 
 “ I am favoured with yours of the 28th ult. in which you 
 “ desire me to give you as correct a state of the health of the 
 “ people, and of the casualties which happened to them while 
 “ under my care at Fort Macdowall, as I can, with some de- 
 
573 
 
 MEDICAL REPORT IN APRIL 1803. 
 
 “ script ion of its situation, and the surrounding country. 
 “ When it is considered that I had no assistant there, and on 
 “ my arrival found upwards of one hundred Malays affected 
 “ with fever, and nearly as many unfit for duty from foul ulcers 
 “ in their legs, which originated from scratches they received 
 “ on foraging parties; that there were besides nearly as many 
 “ pioneers, lascars, &c. with similar complaints; and when I 
 “ inform you that I had to visit all these myself, make up their 
 “ medicines, administer the greater part of them Avith my own 
 “ hands, and dress their sores, which took up almost the Avhole 
 “ of the day; I hope I shall be held excused for not having 
 “ kept any regular journal. Independent of this, Avounded 
 “ men were daily brought in bj^ the foraging parties, Avhose 
 “ cries for relief required immediate attention. Innumerable 
 “ coolies also Avith ulcers in their legs, and various other bodily 
 u diseases, Avere every moment presenting themselves before 
 “ me Avith silent looks of anguish, which humanity Avould not 
 “ permit me to disregard. Before evening came, therefore, I 
 “ found myself as much disposed for rest as any day labourer 
 “ possibly could be; but in this I Avas seldom indulged, being 
 “ frequently disturbed during the night to attend some person 
 “ in distress. The folloAving short description of Fort Mac- 
 “ doAvall, and account of the health of the people during my 
 
 I 
 
 “ short residence there, is, therefore, entirely from memory. 
 
 “ Fort MacdoAvall is about fifteen or sixteen miles distant 
 “ from Candy, on the road leading to Trincomallee. It is 
 “ situate on a hill surrounded by lofty mountains, but separated 
 
MEDICAL REPORT IN APRIL 1803. 
 
 279 
 
 “ from them by vallies of from 900 to 1200 yards in breadth. 
 “ The vallies, as well as a great part of the mountains, ap- 
 “ pcared clothed with most beautiful verdure, affording, no 
 “ doubt, excellent pasturage. Oxen were the only cattle we 
 “ saw, and they were in the best possible condition. We were 
 “ frequently furnished with fruit of various kinds in the highest 
 “ state of perfection, which appeared to be in the greatest 
 “ abundance; and the water we found exceedingly good. Dur- 
 “ ing the eighteen days in which I was there, viz. from the 
 “ 15th of April to the 3d of May, it rained very hard for two, 
 “ and sometimes three hours every day, beginning generally at 
 “ two, and continuing till four, and sometimes five o’clock 
 “ P. M. excepting the last five or six days, when it was fine 
 “ weather. We frequently observed rain falling on the sum- 
 “ mits of the mountains all round for several hours before it 
 “ reached us. 
 
 “ Captain Madge and I, with fifty-five rank and file of the 
 “ 19th regiment, marched from Candy for Fort Macdowall on 
 “ the morning of the 15th of April, and arrived there on the 
 “ evening of the same day. It rained incessantly the whole 
 “ way during our march, and from several days of heavy rain 
 “ immediately preceding, the small rivulets we had to pass 
 “ were so much swollen, that, in fording them, we found our- 
 “ selves up to the middle in water. Apprehensive lest the 
 “ men, who had not a dry shirt to put on, might suffer in con- 
 “ sequence of this circumstance, I recommended an extra 
 “ dram to be served out to them on our arrival, which was 
 
280 
 
 MEDICAL REPORT IN APRIL 1803 . 
 
 “ complied with. On the following day, however, two or three 
 “ complained of feverish symptoms, and for several days to- 
 “ gethcr more came with similar complaints till the day of my 
 “ departure, when out of the fifty-five men who marched with 
 “ us, twenty-eight had been taken ill of quotidians, tertians, 
 “ and quartans. Some of these, no doubt, owed their origin to 
 “ our first day’s march, but by far the greater number were, 
 “ in my opinion, brought on by the excessive fatigue and 
 “ labour which the men sustained in the service of foraging, 
 “ during the hottest part of the da} 7 , from which they some- 
 “ times returned drenched with rain. 
 
 “ The extreme languor and debility which this afterwards 
 “ occasioned, rendered them more susceptible of feverish at- 
 “ tacks, especially from the heavy sickly dew which constantly 
 
 “ fell at night. The symptoms did not however run very high, 
 “ nor did they, in general, seem very obstinate. An emetic 
 “ at first, and small, but repeated doses of calomel afterwards, 
 “ for the most part remitted their progress, and subdued their 
 “ violence. All of these patients were in a convalescent state, 
 
 “ and doing well previous to my departure, and the foraging 
 “ parties had for some days been countermanded. 
 
 “ Four casualties occurred during my residence at Fort 
 “ Macdowall among the Europeans, and two among the Ma- 
 “ lays. The Europeans were three boys belonging to the olst, 
 44 I believe, a drummer and two privates, who came down with 
 “ the rest of the sick from Candy in the last stage of flux, and 
 “ reduced to the lowest extremity. One of them died the day 
 
MEDICAL REPORT IN APRIL 1803. 
 
 281 
 
 “ after his arrival,, and the two others on the two following days. 
 “ I had not the most distant hope of the recovery of any of 
 “ them from the first moment that I saw them. The other 
 “ European was a private in the 19th, who died of a fever, 
 “ which he also brought down with him from Candy. One of 
 “ the Malays died of a gun-shot wound, which had penetrated 
 “ the cavity of the abdomen, and the other of fever, with which 
 “ he had been ill long before my arrival. 
 
 “ From the above observations, however, I do not mean 
 “ to infer that Fort Macdowall is a healthy place. T should 
 “ rather suspect from the chilly dews which fall at night, and 
 “ the thick heavy morning fogs, which are seldom completely 
 “ dispersed before eight, and sometimes nine o’clock, that it is 
 <c quite the reverse, and our late experience has shewn, that 
 “ even the Malays, who are considered to be the hardiest race 
 “ of natives in India, are not proof against the baneful effects 
 “ of that pestilential climate, to which Batavia, in comparison, 
 “ appears Montpelier.” 
 
 From these observations it would appear, that although 
 Fort Macdowall may be much more unhealthy than any part 
 of the sea coast of Ceylon, yet that the climate of that place, 
 at least during the month of April 1803, has by no means been 
 so deleterious as that of most parts of the interior on the west- 
 ern side of the island, as the fevers, even among the Europeans, 
 were less obstinate and more easily cured than in other places. 
 This may probably be owing to Fort Macdowall being situate 
 
 VOL. II. 2 o 
 
282 
 
 MEDICAL REPORT IN APRIL 1803. 
 
 on a hill, and to the surrounding country being more dry, and 
 less woody, than on the other side of the island, as Mr. Hall 
 remarks that the vallies, as well as great parts of the moun- 
 tains, were covered with beautiful verdure. 
 
 His Majesty’s Ceylon Regiment. 
 
 The number of sick in the Ceylon regiment is great, but 
 they have been particularly fortunate in having few casualties, 
 although the proportion of deaths is greater than in the Malay 
 corps. 
 
 The comparative mildness of the fever in the natives is re- 
 markably striking, for while among the Europeans employed 
 on the same service, its prevalence is almost universal, and its 
 violence so great, that it often carries off in a few days, and in 
 the end proves fatal to a large proportion of those seized with 
 it, notwithstanding the use of the most powerful remedies, yet 
 the natives are in general very slightly affected with it. It sel- 
 dom confines them, and often passes off after one or two pa- 
 roxysms without any medicine whatever, or with the assistance 
 of some remedy of a simple nature. 
 
 The same thing is observed in the West Indies, where the 
 yellow fever comparatively affects the negroes very seldom, 
 and very slightly. This circumstance evinces the propriety and 
 even necessity of employing black troops for the more ordinary 
 duties, and must in a great degree be attributed to their simple 
 mode of life, and still more to their constitutions being formed 
 
MEDICAL REPORT IN APRIL 1803. 18$ 
 
 for the temperature of the climate, which they are destined to 
 inhabit. 
 
 The most fatal diseases among the natives during the cam- 
 paign have been Berry-berry, flux, and latterly ulcers, of 
 which last a great many bad cases remained in hospital at the 
 end of the month. These three diseases dux, Berry-berry, and 
 ulcers among the natives, are generally occasioned by, or de- 
 pend much upon, bad living. 
 
 The division of the natives into different casts, and their 
 prejudices and habits in consequence, will not permit of any 
 regulations being adopted with respect to messing in barracks, 
 or even in hospital, as is practised in European corps. Each 
 individual is, therefore, necessarily left to procure and dress 
 his own meals, and I am sorry to say that, either from parsi- 
 fnony or poverty, these seldom consist of more than dry rice 
 or congee, with, perhaps, a small addition of spice, or curry 
 stuff. I have formerly proposed that to remedy this evil, go- 
 vernment should, in addition to rice now issued, furnish a small 
 proportion of ghee, garlic, chillies, tamarinds, and other curry 
 stuffs to each soldier, for which a small sum might be deducted 
 from their pay, not exceeding half the value of the articles 
 issued. 
 
 This measure, which is generally practised when the com- 
 pany’s native troops are embarked on foreign service, would, I 
 am convinced, have the most happy effects, particularly with 
 the Ceylon native infantry, who are generally natives of the 
 coast of Coromandel; and I am the more particular in recom- 
 
284 
 
 MEDICAL REPORT IN APRIL 1803. 
 
 mending it at this time, because from the present debilitated 
 state of the men, and our former experience among coast 
 troops, we have every reason to apprehend that the men of this 
 corps may be grievously affected with Berry-berry in the course 
 of the next north-east monsoon, and I arm disposed to hope, 
 that its ravages may in some degree be averted by the means 
 above proposed. 
 
 I subjoin some remarks which accompanied Mr. Rey- 
 nolds’s return, and which refer in a great measure to a plan 
 similar to the one above mentioned. 
 
 “ You will perceive that the number of sick is great, but 
 I am happy to be able to observe that the number of deaths 
 in proportion is few. You have frequently visited my hospital 
 of late, and have seen the bad cases, I have therefore little to 
 add on the subject of disease, but there is much room for ob- 
 servation on the mode of prevention. There is a wonderful 
 tendency to putrefaction in the system of the natives of the 
 coast of Coromandel in this island, so much so, that I have 
 often seen a slight sore become a vitiated ulcer in three or four 
 days, and very alarming consequences follow punishments, as 
 their backs frequently ulcerate. This must, in my opinion, be 
 attributed in a great degree to bad living, and if government 
 were to attend a little to their comforts in this respect, I am 
 convinced it would be a very great saving in the end. I have 
 on a former occasion mentioned the necessity of this measure 
 to you ; let me again entreat you will please to call the atten- 
 tion of General Macdowall to this important subject, and I 
 
MEDICAL REPORT IN APRIL 1803 . 
 
 285 
 
 make no doubt but he will represent the matter in a favour- 
 able light to the consideration of his Excellency the Governor. 
 The fever which has proved so fatal to Europeans this war has 
 heretofore been very mild among the sepoys. In its progress 
 I have purged them freely, and employed bark in large doses, 
 with the cold bath, at their own particular request. I have a 
 number of bad ulcers, and must expect to lose a great many 
 men in the very sickly state of the regiment/' 
 
 The Bengal gun-lascars, with the exception of the Malays, 
 have, I think, suffered less than any other natives employed in 
 the late service, which I must attribute to their being old sea- 
 soned soldiers accustomed to hard duty in different parts of 
 India. 
 
 The proportion of deaths among the detachments of pioneers, 
 tent and store-lascars is also moderate. 
 
 Few circumstances worthy of remark have occurred among 
 the native troops stationed in the small garrisons on the sea 
 coast, viz. Batticaloe, Jaffnapatam, Manaar, Calpenteen, Ne- 
 gombo, Point de Galle, Matura, and Hambangtotte. They 
 have, in general, been healthy during the month of April, only 
 one casualty having occurred among the whole, which was 
 occasioned by sudden death. 
 
 The strength of the European troops in Ceylon in the month 
 of April appears, from the surgeons' reports, to have been 
 
286 
 
 MEDICAL REPORT IN APRIL 1803. 
 
 I 
 
 about sixteen hundred and thirty-three. Out of which number 
 seven hundred and seventy-four have been in hospital. Of 
 these two hundred and eighteen have been cured, one hundred 
 and forty-six have died, forty-two have been transferred to 
 another surgeon, and three hundred and sixty-eight remained 
 under treatment at the end of the month. 
 
 “ The strength of the native troops in the island during April, 
 appears to have been about three thousand four hundred and 
 fourteen. Out of which number one thousand five hundred 
 and twenty-one have been sick. Of these seven hundred and 
 twenty-six have been cured; twenty-one are dead, and seven 
 hundred and seventy-three remained in hospital at the end of 
 the month. 
 
 “ It would, therefore, appear that in the course of the month 
 of April, nearly one half of all the troops serving in the island 
 had been in hospital. The proportion of sick remaining at the 
 end of the month is nearly as one to four and a half men in 
 health, and that of deaths is nearly as one to fourteen cases in 
 hospital, or thirty effective men. 
 
 i . ~ 
 
 “ The diseases occasioning this very remarkable mortality 
 were almost all contracted in the Candian territory, or on the 
 frontiers/’ 
 
 (Signed) “ Tuos. Christie, 
 
 “ Superintendant of Hospitals.” 
 
 Columbo, 6th June 1803. 
 
CHAPTER VI. 
 
 EMBASSY FROM COLUMBO TO THE COURT OF CANDY IN THE 
 
 YEAR 1800. 
 
 Xiie information contained in this chapter is taken from the 
 manuscript of a diary written by Captain William Macpherson, 
 of his Majesty's 12th regiment of foot, Brigade Major to Ge- 
 neral Macdowall, and Secretary to the Embassy to the Court 
 of Candy in the year 1800. It is not, however, intended to 
 enter into the details of the negotiation, but merely to extract 
 from the Secretary’s journal such parts as are descriptive of 
 the country, and tend to illustrate the manners of the inha- 
 bitants. 
 
 “ On the 12th of March 1800, between the hours of six 
 and seven in the morning, Major General Hay Macdowall, in 
 the capacity of Ambassador to the Court of Candy, took leave 
 of the governor in the government-house of Columbo. Mr. 
 North gave him a letter to the King, and one to the first Adi- 
 gar. The letter of his Candian Majesty was delivered with all 
 due ceremony to the appohamies appointed to take charge of 
 it, and placed upon one of their heads. They then moved out 
 of the fort, followed by the ambassador, on whose departure a 
 salute of seventeen guns was fired from the walls of Columbo. 
 The escort appointed to attend him consisted of one thousand 
 
288 
 
 EMBASSY TO CANDY IN 1800 . 
 
 one hundred and sixty-four men, Europeans and natives, ex- 
 clusive of pioneers and tent lascars. 
 
 “ On the 19th of March the ambassador crossed the river 
 Olgoda in state with the King’s letter. Immediately on enter- 
 ing the Candian dominions, a corporal and si^ men fired a 
 round of blank cartridges over the letter, agreeably to former 
 usages: and, on its being deposited in a little building assigned 
 for its reception, another salute of six muskets was fired in the 
 air. The ambassador was met here by three mohandirams, 
 who were sent by the Adigar to welcome his arrival, and to 
 point out the lodgings prepared for his accommodation. They 
 inquired concerning his health, and that of the gentlemen who 
 accompanied him, and then took their leave. 
 
 “ The Adigar intimated to the General that he would wait 
 on him at five o’clock in the afternoon, but learning afterwards 
 that six was his dinner hour, he named eight o’clock. 
 
 “ The head of the column of his guards arrived about half 
 past eight, and at nine the Adigar’s approach was announced 
 by the cracking of whips, and the display of an immense num- 
 ber of lights. There were about a thousand men and seven 
 elephants in his train. The ambassador advanced about one 
 hundred and twenty paces to meet him, and found him walk- 
 ing in a line with the Maha Mottiar/two other Mottiars, and 
 three mohandirams. The ambassador went up to him with 
 both hands open, the palms uppermost, and joined: the Adi- 
 gar advanced and took hold of them: after which the ambas- 
 sador paid the same piece of respect to the three Mottiars, and 
 
EMBASSY TO CANDY IN 1800 . 
 
 289 
 
 sprinkled rose water on a handkerchief that each of them held 
 in his hand. The Ambassador next took the Adigar’s left hand 
 in his right, and walked to the house, followed by the Secre- 
 tary to the embassy, leading the Maha-Mottiar, the Secretary 
 to the Ambassador the second Mottiar, and the other. attend- 
 ants of the Adigar handed by other gentlemen of the escort. 
 On arriving at the large hall, all except the Adigar stopped. 
 He proceeded, still led by the Ambassador, to the place where 
 the King’s letter was deposited, and having shewn it every 
 mark of respect, a signal was given, and his attendants moved 
 up to the porch in front of the house, allotted for the royal 
 letter, and drew up to the left of the Adigar. The Ambassa- 
 dor and suite drew up opposite, about a pace distant from 
 them. After a short pause, the Adigar said he had certain 
 things to communicate from his Majesty the King of Candy. 
 He asked, by his desire, concerning the health of the Go- 
 vernor, the Ambassador and his suite, and all the English 
 gentlemen at Columbo. He asked if the Ambassador had re- 
 ceived every thing which he required since entering the Can- 
 dian dominions. He said he had the Kings instructions to 
 pay the embassy the greatest attention; also orders to receive 
 charge of the presents which they were conveying to his Ma- 
 jesty. The Ambassador then inquired concerning the health 
 of the King, the Adigar, and Nobles, and expressed his hope 
 that the Minister and his respectable suite had not suffered 
 from the fatigue of their journey from Candy. 
 
 “ The Adigar’s band was then called in, and after a tedious 
 
 2 p 
 
 VOL. II. 
 
290 EMBASSY TO CANDY IN 1800. 
 
 noise from ill-braced drums, and most discordant wind instru- 
 ments, they at last left off, and another band of different in- 
 struments commenced without doors. The ceasing of the music 
 was the signal for a salute from the Adigar’ s guns, and for our 
 retiring from the porch to the hall, where chairs were placed 
 for us, to which we were glad to resort, after having stood 
 upwards of an hour. When seated, the conversation of the 
 Adigar related chiefly to his friend Lieutenant General James 
 Stuart, the officer under whom Columbo was taken by the 
 English. At a quarter past ten o’clock the Adigar said he 
 would wait on the Ambassador in the morning. We escorted 
 him and his attendants out of the house in the same manner 
 that we did into it, and wished them a good night, a few yards 
 nearer our quarters than the pfiace where we met them on their 
 arrival. Some minutes after their departure an appohamy was 
 dispatched by the Ambassador to inquire concerning the Adi- 
 gar’s health, in compliance with the customs of the ceremoni- 
 ous court of Candy. 
 
 “ On the 22d of March, as soon as the Adigar had moved 
 off with the King’s letter and presents, the escort marched in 
 advance to Epillapitty. The Secretary to the embassy was 
 sent to Roovangwello to converse with the Adigar. 
 
 “ Between the Ambassador’s house near Seetavaca and that 
 at Roovangwello there are ten wooden bridges over great and 
 small rivers. There are likewise several rivulets with rocky 
 beds; and many parts of the route are so rugged that it is 
 dangerous for horses to pass, and no wheeled vehicle weaker 
 
EMBASSY TO CANDY IN 1800. 
 
 291 
 
 than tlie carriage of a six pounder could be dragged along it. 
 The distance is about nine miles; and the palanquin bearers 
 took three hours to travel it. The road winds among rocks and 
 mountains, but is pretty level. All the hills have been com- 
 pletely clothed with large trees from their bases to their sum- 
 mits. They are now denuded in patches preparing for culti- 
 vation. The view at the ford is very beautiful, and drawings 
 of it were made by Messrs. Jonville and Moreau. When we 
 arrived at the end of the stage, the Adigar deposited the King’s 
 letter with great ceremony in a building erected for it. His 
 bands played for an hour, and on their ceasing a salute of seven 
 guns was fired. In the absence of the Ambassador, one of his 
 staff was obliged to be present at the music in honour of his 
 Majesty’s letter. 
 
 “ On the 24th of March the escort marched from Epilla- 
 pitty to the King’s garden on the banks of the Calany-ganga, 
 within a mile of Roovangwello. 
 
 “ On the 29th, we went three miles up the Calany-ganga in 
 a flat bottomed boat. The inhabitants seemed rather alarmed, 
 but those we met with were civil and attentive. They spoke 
 of a quick-sand, and pointed out a hill to us on the right hand 
 going up, from which they said no man who ascended it ever 
 returned. 
 
 “ About half a mile from the King’s garden there is an 
 image of Buddha, eighteen feet long, in a recumbent posture, 
 under the projection of a large bluff rock. 
 
 “ The Ambassador came to the house allotted for him at 
 
292 
 
 EMBASSY TO CANDY IN 1800. 
 
 Roovangwello on the 31st of March. Having left the greater 
 part of the troops at the King's garden, it was now determined 
 that he should proceed to Candy, attended only by two com- 
 panies of sepoys, and two of Malays. 
 
 On the first of April the embassy moved on to Iddamal- 
 panie. The distance is about fourteen miles. Horses took 
 four hours and a half to travel it: palanquin bearers took five 
 hours; the escort five hours and a half. 
 
 The road led through one of the richest countries that can 
 be imagined. Some parts of it were well made; and the whole 
 of it might with little labour be rendered fit for the easy trans- 
 portation of artillery. The tract of country seen on this stage 
 is chiefly one extensive valley, which has lately produced a 
 crop of rice. Very few trees of a large size are met with. Both 
 hills and plains have evidently been cleared of wood, by which 
 means the trees in general are young. The road is extremely 
 level to be in so mountainous a country. It is much better 
 than that between Seetavaca and Roovangwello, and not so 
 hilly as the road from Seetava to Goorowaddy. 
 
 Iddamalpanie is a most beautiful spot. The Goorkuda-oia, 
 a fine stream of water, runs close to our tents, a cascade falls 
 down a precipice in our front, and very near to us is one of the 
 most curiously constructed and most picturesque bridges which 
 can be conceived. The principal part of it is suspended by 
 withes from the boughs of large trees. (A view of this bridge 
 is given in the annexed plate.) Our artists are in raptures 
 with the scenery all around. To them and their drawings. 
 
: " 
 
 t • ‘ 
 
EMBASSY TO CANDY IN 1800. 
 
 293 
 
 I leave the description of one of the finest vallies in the 
 world. 
 
 This place is situate in the four corles, of which as well as 
 of the three and other corles, the Adigar is Dessauve. Here 
 he expressed a wish to feed the troops, and every person in the 
 Ambassador’s suite. The General allowed him to give rice to 
 the private followers of the camp, but declined his offer for 
 the soldiers and public servants, as they were fed by govern- 
 ment. 
 
 On the third of April we had a very fatiguing journey to 
 Attapittie. The distance is nearly fifteen miles, and the escort 
 under Captain Whitlie took six hours to march it, so that they 
 travelled at the rate of only two miles and a half in an hour. 
 In many places the road is rocky and difficult. Several of the 
 ascents are steep, and the whole would require considerable 
 labour before six pounders could be brought along it. I think, 
 however, that three hundred pioneers might make it passable 
 for cannon of any caliber in five days. We crossed many rivu- 
 lets: and all the low lands were under water. The general 
 face of the country is hilly, but the hills are not high, and all 
 the vallies are well cultivated. One singular rock appeared on 
 the right, very much like the roof of a barn. AVe were fre- 
 quently obliged to dismount from our horses, owing to the 
 badness o{ the road. There are no large trees along it. The 
 Rest-house of Attapittie is better than that of the former stage: 
 the place is not so much confined by hills; and the Goonoo- 
 goodoo-oia passes close by it. The Dessauve of Matula met 
 
294 
 
 EMBASSY TO CANDY IN 1800 . 
 
 the Ambassador at Iddamalpanie; and preceded our line of 
 march this day in his palanquin attended by five elephants. 
 
 On the 4th of April the Adigar waited on the General, and 
 informed him that the Dessauve of Matula was arrived, and 
 wished to pay his respects to the King’s letter, and the Eng- 
 lish Ambassador. Upon this intimation we proceeded about 
 one hundred and fifty yards to meet the Dessauve, who kept 
 us waiting full half an hour. At last he made his appearance 
 in great state, attended by four hundred soldiers with Euro- 
 pean firelocks : some of which wanted the main spring, some 
 the cock, and others the hammer. They cut, however, a very 
 respectable figure, and formed a lane for the Dessauve in no 
 despicable manner. He having joined us, the Adigar became, 
 for a time, the second person in rank among the Candians of 
 the party: and with due attention to this circumstance, we 
 arranged our procession in returning to the quarters of the Am- 
 bassador, who led the Dessauve up to the King’s letter, and 
 put it into his hand. Having examined the outer cover, which 
 was apiece of white muslin, he laid the letter down again; 
 and we proceeded to the hall of audience, where the Adigar 
 gave the Dessauve the place of honour, by putting him on his 
 right hand, while he spoke to the Ambassador what he had 
 been commissioned to say by the King of Candy. 
 
 There were eleven persons present, besides the Adigar and 
 Dessauve, who wore red caps embroidered with gold. The 
 Dessauve said that he and five other nobles were ordered 
 by the King to pay every respect to the embassy, and to 
 
EMBASSY TO CANDY IN 1800. 295 
 
 see that they wanted nothing which was necessary to their 
 comfort. 
 
 On the oth of April we proceeded to Valgoovagooda, which, 
 at the farthest, is not more than ten miles from Attapittie. 
 The Ambassador’s guard took five hours to march it, including 
 some little temporary halts. Those who rode on horseback, 
 part of the way, reached the end of the stage in four hours and 
 a half. 
 
 After marching from Attapittie, on a very tolerable road 
 for an hour and a half, we crossed a river with a stony bed, 
 which affords bad footing for a horse. In half an hour more, 
 after passing over a rocky hill, we commenced the chief labour 
 of the day by ascending Ballany Candeh, the highest and 
 steepest mountain between Columbo and Candy, and by far 
 the most difficult tract of a journey that I ever saw. Having 
 ascended for the space of seventeen minutes, we descended 
 and crossed a rivulet. We then climbed for seventeen or 
 eighteen minutes more, when we went a little wav along a level 
 road; again ascended as long a time as either of the preceding, 
 and arrived at the Rest-house on the summit of the hill, which 
 Mr. Jonville, on a rough calculation, computed to be two thou- 
 sand feet above the level of the sea. The line of march is so 
 steep and rugged, that it is wonderful how the horses climbed 
 the numerous almost perpendicular rocks, which rise in the 
 path. This mountain is not so high as the Pooderherrim Ghaut, 
 but the passage over it is much steeper and more difficult. 
 Labour and perseverance, however, might carry guns of any 
 
296 
 
 EMBASSY IN CANDY IN 1800. 
 
 size over Ballany Candeh; but it must be labour and perse- 
 verance of the most determined kind. After arriving at the 
 Rest-house, on the hill, the road is good for a considerable way, 
 and we did not descend much. From the top of this moun- 
 tain we had a fine view of the smaller hills and vallies below. 
 
 ✓ 
 
 We afterwards climbed a steep mount, which has a fine green 
 summit perfect^ clear of wood. The cultivation all along this 
 rich country exhibits the labour of husbandmen who under- 
 stand agriculture. The Ambassador’s house at Valgoovagooda 
 is by far the best we have hitherto met with. The people seem 
 contented and happy: and some of us fancied that they be- 
 came more civil as we approached the capital. On our re- 
 marking the goodness of the house, they said we should have 
 a better at the next stage. The Candian Chiefs rode up Bal- 
 lany Candeh on elephants, an animal well calculated for clam- 
 bering over such a pass. • 
 
 On the 7th of April, after travelling three hours on a very 
 rugged road, which only allowed the men to march seven miles 
 in that time, the Ambassador halted, according to a request of 
 the Candians, within three quarters of a mile of Gonaroova. 
 On this spot, where a tent was pitched for the occasion, he 
 remained from nine o’clock in the morning until two in the 
 afternoon. Matters being arranged, he proceeded in his palan- 
 quin to meet the Adigar, until he came within a few paces of 
 the place where he was. Here he walked and found the Adi- 
 gar attended by the Dessauve of Matula, the Maha Mottiar, 
 and the other inferior officers, who were charged with the duly 
 
EMBASSY TO CANDY IN 1800 . 
 
 297 
 
 of paying respect to the embassy, and providing for its wants. 
 After the usual ceremonies they moved on together to meet the 
 second Adigar, who had been sent from Candy by the King to 
 receive the British Ambassador. This Adigar was advancing 
 towards the General, and they met at a place where the Am- 
 bassador’s guard was drawn up in a lane, through which the 
 whole party passed. The second Adigar was attended by the 
 Dessauve of Uva, and a great number of persons of inferior 
 distinction. The Ambassador was received with all the honours 
 due to his rank, in a manner similar to that in which he for- 
 merly received the courtiers of Candy. From the flank of the 
 General’s guard nearest to the Rest-house of Gonaroova, eight 
 hundred yards of the road was lined with fifteen hundred or 
 two thousand of the best Candian troops, all of whom were 
 armed with firelocks, excepting twenty men, who had SAvords 
 and shields, and seemed to be natives of the coast of Coroman- 
 del. These men Avore large turbans, and had red scabbards on 
 their SAvords. Through this lane the procession moved, the 
 Ambassador handing the first Adigar, the Secretary of the em- 
 bassy the second Adigar, and the Secretary to the Ambassador 
 the Dessauve of Uva. On entering the house, the Ambassa- 
 dor took the King’s letter off the Appohamy’s head, and laid it 
 on a table in a chamber appointed for it. The second Adigar 
 folloAved him, and having seen it carefully Avrapped up, re- 
 turned to the hall, where the rest of the party stood Availing. 
 Here he Avhispered in the ear of the first Adigar, who immedi- 
 ately allowed him to pass to the place of honour on the right: 
 
 VOL. II. 2Q 
 
 / 
 
298 EMBASSY TO CANDY IN 1800. 
 
 when he announced that he was authorised by his Candian 
 Majesty to communicate several things to his Excellency the 
 Ambassador. After finishing his oration, he retired to his 
 former station. The first Adigar, attended by the other nobles, 
 then led the Ambassador to a room allotted for him. Here 
 the Ambassador took the opportunity of acquainting them that 
 the Governor of the British settlements in Ceylon, being desir- 
 ous of increasing the friendship which so happily subsisted 
 between the Candians and English, had sent him as an Am- 
 bassador with full power to enter into a treaty which would 
 have that effect. He said, he merely announced this to them, 
 without intending to enter upon any business until he had had 
 an audience of the King, which he would wait for with all re- 
 spect until his Majesty was pleased to desire that he should be 
 introduced to him at his imperial court. The usual compli- 
 ments then passed, and the whole procession moved out of the 
 house in the same order that they went into it, the General 
 and his suite accompanying them to the bank of the river, 
 about two hundred yards distant. Here the Ambassador took 
 leave of all the Candian chiefs, except the Dessauve of Uva, 
 whom he handed back to the house, where the Dessauve re- 
 mained until he delivered to the Ambassador a part of the 
 King’s own dinner, which consisted of fifty coolie-loads of rice, 
 cakes, sugar, sweet-meats, and other dishes. This Dessauve 
 is a man of open and agreeable manners, and we were not a 
 little pleased to find that he was the person appointed to wait 
 on us. At seven o’clock in the evening, he and the Ambassador 
 
EMBASSY TO CANDY IN 1800. 
 
 299 
 
 \ 
 
 attended the music, played before the house, in honour of the 
 King’s letter. This is the first dry day that we have had for 
 some time past. There has been rain almost every evening. 
 It is remarkable that we have not yet seen a tree of a large size 
 in the part of the Candian country through which we have 
 passed. Many of the fields on the last stage have been lately 
 sown, and the young corn was just making its appearance. 
 
 In the morning of the 9th of April the Nobles of the court 
 waited on the Ambassador, and requested to know what parts 
 of the ceremony of introduction he wished them to dispense 
 with. He replied that he objected to carrying the letter on 
 his head, and to the too frequent genuflections stated as ne- 
 cessary. 
 
 These matters being adjusted, about half past four o’clock 
 in the afternoon, the Dessauve of Matula and the Maha-Mot- 
 tiar waited on the General, and told him that the King had 
 sent them to announce to him, that his Majesty would give his 
 Excellenc} r an audience this evening, and that he had ordered 
 them to take charge of the presents and letter for the King. It 
 was nine o’clock P. M. before they got the presents across the 
 river, and at this hour the Ambassador quitted his house to 
 proceed towards Candy. Having crossed the Mahavilla-ganga 
 in boats, he and his suite got into their palanquins, and, after 
 travelling very slowly, arrived in an hour and a half at the 
 halting place, half a mile from the palace, and within the limits 
 of the town of Candy. Upon the road we could only remark, 
 that there were a good many houses upon each side of it, and 
 
300 
 
 EMBASSY TO CANDY IN 1800 . 
 
 that there were rice fields where there were not houses to ob- 
 struct the view. The road was pretty level, but bad from 
 neglect in several parts. In four or five different places high 
 palisades run across the road, with gates in the centre of them; 
 at each of these gates we found small guards of about twenty- 
 five Malays each, and at three of them we observed two pieces 
 of cannon mounted upon carriages, with their muzzles pointed 
 at the moon: they were of different calibers, and, probabljg 
 none of them exceeded the size of a three-pounder; but as we 
 saw them in the night, we do not pretend to speak decisivel} r . 
 It is probable that these six guns compose the greater part if 
 not the whole of the Candian ordnance. After remaining about 
 an hour in the halting place above mentioned, we moved on in 
 a heavy shower of rain, attended by a deputation of the nobles, 
 to a Bo-gaha or Buddah tree, within a short distance of the 
 palace. Here the second Adigar met the Ambassador, and 
 led him up towards the first Adigar, who was approaching in 
 all possible sta»e. Having met the Ambassador, he said he 
 was ordered by the King to lead him up to the first gate of his 
 Majesty’s palace. Having arrived there, he said he would go 
 and inform his Majesty that his Excellency was at the hist 
 gate. In about half an hour he returned with the King’s per- 
 mission for the iYmbassador to enter the palace. During the 
 absence of the first Adigar, the second amused the Ambassador 
 by pointing out to him a number of state elephants that were 
 drawn up on the occasion, and, like the poor Candian. troops 
 that lined the streets, seemed as much annoyed by the deluge 
 
EMBASSY TO CANDY IN 1800. 
 
 301 
 
 of rain as ourselves. The C’andian nobles, who were well pro- 
 tected from the rain by their talipot umbrellas, seemed to 
 delight in proving to us that no weather could stop or shorten 
 the ceremonies of their court. 
 
 We now entered the palace gate, and confidently expected 
 to have got out of the rain ; we were therefore much disap- 
 pointed when we found that it only led into an open court, 
 where we were again to enjoy the pleasure arising from a fresh 
 ducking. At length, ljowever, we got under a roof, and the 
 two chief Ministers, having with their own hands turned out 
 all intruders, shut the second gate, behind which were fourteen 
 drummers beating on European drums, and performers on 
 other musical instruments, who made a noise difficult to be 
 described. At this gate the Ambassador took the King's letter 
 off the appahamy’s head, and holding it in both hands level 
 with his eyes, instead of putting it on his head, as was the 
 practice of the Dutch ambassadors, he moved on towards the 
 door of the hall of audience, the two Adigars holding him by 
 the arms. Having advanced a few paces, they stopped him 
 to ask how many of the seven gentlemen who attended him he 
 wished to carry in with him. On his expressing a wish that 
 they should all be admitted, no objection was made. The 
 gallery through which we were now passing was lined by his 
 Majesty's body guard, who held their firelocks nearly in the 
 position called by military men recovered arms, and which as it 
 always precedes presenting or levelling might have alarmed us, 
 had they not been cased in white muslin, an emblem of peace, 
 
302 
 
 EMBASSY TO CANDY IN 1800 . 
 
 which completely concealed them. Having arrived at the en- 
 trance of the hall of audience several curtains were drawn, and 
 gave us a full view of the King on his throne in a recess at the 
 farther end of the apartment. The drawing of the curtains 
 was the signal for six of the nobles to prostrate themselves on 
 the ground, and for the Ambassador and the gentlemen who 
 were with him to kneel. While these six nobles prostrated 
 themselves in this way nine different times, they called out 
 O! King live for ever, and addressed themselves to him as if 
 they were paying their adorations to a Deity. The King re- 
 peated a word three different times in a loud rough voice, upon 
 his pronouncing which the third time, we all got up and 
 advanced a few paces, when the same ceremony was performed 
 a second time. 
 
 We then rose once more and advanced to the edge of a 
 carpet where we kneeled, and the nobles prostrated themselves 
 a third time, while the Ambassador, still held by the first and 
 second Adigars, went up to the throne carrying the letter. 
 Having reached the foot of the throne, the first Adigar took off 
 the muslin that covered the letter, and his Majest}^ took the 
 letter from the Ambassador's hands and laid it down on his left 
 side. The Ambassador was now led backwards to the spot, 
 where we remained all the while kneeling. Having reached 
 us he kneeled also. The first Adigar now went and sat down 
 opposite to the right of the throne. The second Adigar took 
 his post opposite to the left of it, with his face towards the 
 King. The Dessauve of Uva sat down a little advanced in 
 
 O 
 
EMBASSY TO CANDY IN 1800 . 
 
 303 
 
 front of us, and having the Ambassador’s interpreters near to 
 him. I forgot to say that we were all obliged to take off our 
 hats when we entered the hall, excepting the Ambassador, who 
 did not take his off until he had delivered the Governor’s letter. 
 After keeping the Ambassador and his suite some time longer 
 on their knees, the King at length condescended to let the 
 whole sit down on the carpet. This, and all other communi- 
 cation between the King and the Ambassador took place, by 
 the King’s addressing the second Adigar, who repeated the 
 sacred message to the Dessau ve of Uva. The Dessau ve then 
 delivered it to the Cingalese interpreter, who repeated it in 
 Portugueze to a person who explained it in English to the 
 Ambassador, so that a few words took a long time to come 
 from the throne to the Ambassador, and vice versa. In addi- 
 tion to all these delays, the Adigar never received any com- 
 mand from the King that he did not, after hearing it, offer up 
 a prayer for his length of days, and then repeated a prayer to 
 the same purpose before he delivered it to the Dessau ve, who 
 heard every word the King said just as well as the Adigar, and 
 was also obliged to repeat similar ejaculations. The King now 
 asked after the health of his Excellency the Governor. The 
 Ambassador was obliged to ask and obtain permission to 
 answer the King’s question before he could reply. The 
 King then asked after the Governor’s family, and after the 
 Ambassador himself, and those who were with him. He asked 
 if his letter and presents had been treated every where with 
 
304 
 
 EMBASSY TO CANDY IN 1800. 
 
 proper respect, and if his Excellency had met with every 
 attention clue to his rank. Here the King stopped, and the 
 Ambassador informed his Majesty that he had orders from his 
 Excellency the Governor to ask certain questions. Permission 
 being; granted, he asked in the Governor’s name after his Ma- 
 iesty’s health, then informed his Majesty that the Governor 
 had entrusted him with certain presents for his Majesty, and 
 begged permission to send them to his Majesty’s magazines. 
 This permission being given he retired from the hall of audi- 
 ence with the same number of genuflections as when he entered, 
 taking care not to turn his back upon the “ greatest of terres- 
 trial monarchs,” as the King of Candy is styled by his own 
 subjects. While the Ambassador M as out of court, the presents 
 were carried in and probably examined by the proper officers. 
 After remaining in the gallery some time it was announced to 
 the Ambassador, that he might re-enter the audience hall, 
 which he did as before, only, that lie kneeled the third time at 
 the place where he M as seated before, that he did not go up to 
 the throne, and that he and his suite sat down on the carpet 
 Mithout being desired, the former permission being considered 
 sufficient. The King having asked as usual, whether he had 
 not forgotten any of the commissions entrusted to him by the 
 Governor, lie replied that he had not, but that he M ? as autho- 
 rised by the Governor to propose a treaty to his Majesty. The 
 King desired that he would submit it to the consideration of 
 the nobles. 
 
EMBASSY TO CANDY IN 1800. 
 
 305 
 
 The King then dismissed the Ambassador, by asking him 
 if he would not be glad to depart, and the Ambassador retired 
 with a repetition of all the kneelings formerly mentioned. 
 The first Adigar then led the Ambassador to a room, in 
 which refreshments were prepared for him: these consisted 
 of large balls of flour and honey, sweet cakes and fruit, with 
 aqua pura. Having remained here long enough to have 
 made a comfortable repast, had the hour or the provisions 
 been agreeable; the Ambassador was attended to the halting 
 place as before. Here he and his suite got into their palan- 
 quins a little before five o’clock in the morning, and reached 
 the Ambassador’s house at Ganaroova a little after six o’clock. 
 One of the party, who walked back in the morning, computed 
 the distance to be four miles from Candy to the ferry at 
 Ganaroova. 
 
 The King seemed very vain of his dress, and very uneasy 
 on his throne; he kept constantly shaking his head to display 
 the precious stones in his crown, and pulled down his vest or 
 armour to shew off the jewels with which it was studded. He 
 seemed particularly fond of a large round ornament which was 
 suspended from his neck. The throne is a large chair raised 
 upon a platform, three or four steps high; it seemed to be 
 plated with gold, set with precious stones, and to be like his 
 attire very rich and magnificent. The canopy over the throne, 
 sad falling off! — was composed of coarse cotton cloth, with a 
 cotton fringe. Two men stood by him with fly-flaps, which 
 
 2 R 
 
 VOL. II. 
 
306 
 
 EMBASSY TO CANDY IN 1800. 
 
 were kept in constant motion, and he had persons near him 
 whose heads were seen occasionally, with whom he conversed 
 and laughed. He is a young man about twenty-one years of 
 age, with an immense large head, and stupid vacant coun- 
 tenance. The pillars and walls of the hall were covered with 
 patches of' chintz of different patterns, each patch vying with 
 another in want of taste and ugliness. There were four chan- 
 deliers, and eight hanging lamps of European manufacture, 
 but no lights in any of them. There were only ten lights in 
 the room; these were large wax candles. During the whole 
 time we were in the palace we had Cingalese vocal music, 
 and I thought the airs pleasant. The nobles appeared to 
 take the duty of prostrating themselves by turns, excepting 
 the first Adigar, who did not prostrate himself during this 
 audience. 
 
EMBASSY TO CANDY IN 1S00. 
 
 307 
 
 The following enumeration of the various ceremonies of an 
 introduction to the Candian court is so particular and correct, 
 that it illustrates those which took place on the present occa- 
 sion. Where any difference occurred it shall be remarked. 
 
 Alterations which took place 
 on General Macdowall's in- 
 troduction. 
 
 The Ceremonial on the introduction of 
 Dutch Ambassadors at the Court of 
 Candy. 
 
 i. 
 
 Two Mohandirams come and inform 
 his Excellency the Ambassador, that the 
 King will give him an audience in the 
 course of the night. They must be met 
 by the Ambassador at the river side, and 
 must be led to the Bungaloe, with the 
 honours that are usual in receiving all 
 persons from the court who come to visit 
 the Ambassador. 
 
 They did not arrive until 
 half past four. 
 
 ii. 
 
 About three o'clock in the afternoon, 
 a Dessau ve and some other grandees of 
 the court make their appearance, and 
 must be received with the same cere- 
 mony as is mentioned in the 1st Article. 
 They tell the Ambassador, that they are 
 charged by his Majesty to accompany 
 
308 
 
 EMBASSY TO CANDY IN 1800. 
 
 Kathoupelele is half a mile 
 distant. 
 
 his Excellency the Ambassador, the pre- 
 sents and letter, as far as Kathoupelcle- 
 a-bungaloe, about two hundred yards 
 from the palace. 
 
 The presents were sent off 
 by the Dessauve. The letter 
 remained till the Ambassador 
 set out. 
 
 hi. 
 
 The Dessauve sends off the letter and 
 the presents, while the Ambassador re- 
 mains in his house dressing. 
 
 The Dessauve was not ready 
 till nine o’clock. 
 
 IV. 
 
 About six P. M. the Dessauve informs 
 the Ambassador that it is time to depart, 
 and the Ambassador gives him his hand 
 as far as the river. 
 
 The Ambassador was de- 
 tained an hour : arrived at 
 eleven , and set out at twelve 
 
 P. M. 
 
 V. 
 
 The Dessauve passes the river with the 
 Ambassador. He sends off the letter by 
 itself, and the Ambassador and his Secre- 
 tary follow it in their palanquins. The 
 Cingalese interpreters precede the Am- 
 bassador a few seconds on foot. 
 
 VI. 
 
 Being arrived at Kathoupelele, the 
 Ambassador stops. The Grandees of the 
 court are assembled within a few paces, 
 and have the King’s letter. The Am- 
 bassador calls for his own dinner, and 
 
EMBASSY TO CANDY IN 1800. 309 
 
 eats it. The Ambassador waits some- 
 times an hour or two for a lucky mo- 
 ment. 
 
 VII. 
 
 The Dessauve and grandees who ac- 
 company the Ambassador, now tell him 
 that it is time to set out: he gives his 
 hand to the Dessauve, and they walk up 
 to the Bo-gaha, or Buddha tree. 
 
 The second only came this 
 far. The first met him near 
 the palace. 
 
 VIII. 
 
 The Ambassador waits here some time. 
 The first and second Adigars, and some 
 Dessau ves, come to receive the Ambas- 
 sador, and, the usual compliments being 
 over, the Adigar tells the Ambassador, 
 that he is ordered by the King to con- 
 duct him to the first gate of the palace. 
 
 IX. 
 
 At this first gate the whole of the gran- 
 dees of the court are drawn up, and the 
 Ambassador touches hands with each 
 of them. 
 
 x. 
 
 The Ambassador returns to where the 
 first Adigar is, and stops. The Adigar 
 then says he will go, and inform the 
 
310 
 
 EMBASSY TO CANDY IN 1800. 
 
 The Ambassador carried the 
 the letter in his hands. 
 
 King that the Ambassador is arrived at 
 this spot. 
 
 XI. 
 
 The Adigar returns in a little, and 
 says the King has ordered him to con- 
 duct his Excellency to the entrance of 
 the King’s Bungaloe. The Ambassador 
 gives the iVdigar his hand, and they walk 
 in together. 
 
 XII. 
 
 Then the Ambassador puts the letter 
 on his hat, and the hat upon his head, 
 the appohamies supporting the fourpoles 
 of the canopy. 
 
 XIII. 
 
 The appohamies retire, when arrived 
 at a place which is within a few paces 
 of a curtain. The Ambassador, his Se- 
 cretary, and the interpreters go up to the 
 curtain. The Ambassador has the Adi- 
 gars and the Dessauves close by him, 
 and stops. 
 
 XIV. 
 
 All the curtains were drawn 
 up together. 
 
 Six curtains are drawn, one after an- 
 other, the seventh curtain remains down 
 for a few seconds. 
 
EMBASSY TO CANDY IN 1800. 
 
 311 
 
 XV. 
 
 On drawing the seventh curtain the 
 Kinc: is seen: the Ambassador kneels, 
 as do all who are present, and salute. 
 
 XVI. 
 
 The King then tells his ministers to 
 let the Ambassador approach: upon 
 which every one present salutes him 
 again. Then all rise up, approach the 
 King, and kneel again. 
 
 XVII. 
 
 The King orders the Ambassador to 
 approach again. A third genuflection 
 takes place; they rise again, and the 
 Ambassador approaches the King. 
 
 XVIII. 
 
 The Ambassador is now upon a carpet 
 and kneels again. The King orders the 
 Ambassador to approach him once more. 
 The two Adigars lead the Ambassador 
 close up to the King. 
 
 XIX. 
 
 The Ambassador kneels again. The 
 first Adigar takes off the cloth that covers 
 the letter. The Kino; takes the letter 
 himself. The second Adigar takes off 
 
312 
 
 EMBASSY TO CANDY IN 1800. 
 
 The King also asked if his 
 letter and his presents had 
 been treated with proper re- 
 spect. 
 
 the plate which held the letter, and gives 
 it to the interpreters. 
 
 xx. 
 
 The Ambassador gets up, takes off his 
 hat, and salutes the King. He remains 
 with his hat under his arm. He re- 
 tires backwards and kneels upon the 
 carpet. 
 
 XXI. 
 
 Then the xMnbassador sits down on his 
 hands upon the carpet, when his Ma- 
 jesty desires him. The King inquires 
 after the Governor. The Ambassador 
 asks permission to reply : the King grants 
 the permission, and the Ambassador re- 
 plies that he is well. 
 
 XXII. 
 
 The King asks after the Governor, 
 after all the gentlemen who are with 
 him, and after the Ambassador himself. 
 The Ambassador then says that he is 
 ordered by the Governor to say some- 
 thing to the King. 
 
 XXIII. 
 
 The Ambassador asks after the King 
 on the part of the Governor. 
 
EMBASSY TO CANDY IN 1800. 
 
 313 
 
 The horses were not taken 
 in. 
 
 XXIV. 
 
 The Ambassador asks leave to send 
 the Governors presents to his Majesty’s 
 store rooms. 
 
 XXV. 
 
 Permission is granted. 
 
 XXVI. 
 
 He then retires backwards, making as 
 many genuflections in retiring as he did 
 in advancing. 
 
 XXVII. 
 
 When the Ambassador is gone out, 
 they bring in the horses and other pre- 
 sents. 
 
 XXVIII. 
 
 The Ambassador re-enters, and moves 
 up towards the King with the same 
 kneelings. He stops, sits on the ground, 
 on the carpet, in the same place he was 
 in before. 
 
 The Ambassador told the 
 King that he was authorised 
 by the Governor to enter into 
 a treaty with him, and was 
 desired to lay it before his mi- 
 nisters. 
 
 VOL. II. 
 
 XXIX. 
 
 The King asks if the Ambassador has 
 forgotten any part of the commission in- 
 trusted to him. The Ambassador replies 
 that he has not. 
 
 2 S 
 
314 
 
 EMBASSY TO CANDY IN 1800. 
 
 XXX. 
 
 The King dismisses the Ambassador by asking him if he 
 would not be glad to go away. 
 
 . XXXI. 
 
 The Ambassador retires kneeling as before, and with his 
 hat off. 
 
 XXXII. 
 
 The Adigar leads the Ambassador to a place where there 
 are eatables. The Ambassador sits there on a bench, and be- 
 fore him is a table with refreshments. 
 
 XXXIII. 
 
 An hour is past here, and the servants have also a table 
 served up to them. 
 
 xxxir. 
 
 This being over the Ambassador is led to the Adigar: after 
 compliments, if there is any business they converse upon it. 
 
 XXXV. 
 
 The Adigar conducts the Ambassador to the Bogaha. The 
 Adigar then tells him that the King has appointed such and 
 such persons to remain with the Ambassador: the Ambassador 
 thanks him for his Majesty’s goodness. 
 
 xxxvi. 
 
 The Adigar stops. The others conduct him to the place, 
 where he got out of his palanquin. 
 
 XXXVII. 
 
 The grandees of the court go on first. The Ambassador 
 follows till they reach the river. 
 
EMBASSY TO CANDY IN 1800. 
 
 315 
 
 XXXVIII. 
 
 They pass the river together, and conduct the Ambassador 
 to his Bungaloe. The grandees announce their wish to be 
 off. They are thanked for their politeness, and the Ambas- 
 sador accompanies them a short distance, which concludes the 
 ceremony. 
 
 There was a partitioTi between the throne and hall of au- 
 dience; but it had a door in the centre, through which we 
 saw the King, and through which he spoke to the second 
 Adigar. The first Adigar retired early, probably to prompt 
 this tool of state. There were large mirrors on each side 
 of the door opposite to the throne. The nobles sat ranged 
 in a semicircular form, on each side of the Ambassador and 
 his suite, forming a crescent, the horns of which extended 
 towards the throne. The Dessauve of Uva, being spokes- 
 man, was more advanced, and our interpreters were close to 
 him. Those of them who were Cingalese were obliged to 
 prostrate themselves before his Majesty whenever the nobles 
 did. 
 
 ' The Adigar had now fulfilled two of his promises, that 
 the embassy should arrive in Candy without insult, and that 
 he himself would introduce the Ambassador to the King. 
 
316 
 
 EMBASSY TO CANDY IN 1800. 
 
 The following are the principal articles of the treaty which 
 was on this occasion proposed by the English Ambassador to 
 the nobles of the court of Candy. 
 
 i. 
 
 His Britannic Majesty, his heirs, and successors, and the 
 Honourable East India Company of England on the one part, 
 and the King of Candy, his heirs, and successors, and the 
 nobles of his court on the other, mutually agree to a firm and 
 permanent friendship. 
 
 ii. 
 
 His Britannic Majesty and the Honourable Company re- 
 cognize the present King of Candy, and shall consider his 
 enemies as their enemies. 
 
 hi. 
 
 In order to ensure the safety of his Candian Majesty’s 
 throne, the Governor of the British settlements promises to 
 send troops into the Candian dominions whenever they may 
 be deemed necessary to attain that object, and the King of 
 Candy agrees to defray the expence of the troops so employed. 
 
 IV. 
 
 The King of Candy and the nobles of his court recognize 
 the full and legitimate possession of his Britannic Majesty 
 
EMBASSY TO CANDY IN 3800. 
 
 317 
 
 over the territories in Ceylon, which formerly belonged to the 
 Dutch. 
 
 v. 
 
 The English government may send persons to cut cinnamon 
 in the Candian districts: and this right is ceded only to the 
 English government. 
 
 VI. 
 
 The English government shall have a similar permission to 
 cut wood for building and carpenters work in the Candian 
 territories. 
 
 VII. 
 
 The subjects of their Britannic and Candian Majesties may 
 trade mutually, and no duties shall be levied on imports or 
 exports on their respective frontiers. 
 
 VIII. 
 
 The subjects of both powers shall be equally subject to the 
 laws of the country in which they travel or reside. 
 
 IX. 
 
 The religion of the inhabitants of Candy, their temples, 
 pagodas, and the grounds attached to them, shall be respected 
 by the English Government, and his Britannic Majesty’s sub- 
 jects shall have strict orders not to offer any insult to the 
 objects of the Candian worship. 
 
31S 
 
 EMBASSY TO CANDY IN 1800. 
 
 X. 
 
 As it is of great consequence to his Candian Majesty and 
 the British government that a free communication should take 
 place between the English troops, wherever they are, and 
 the sea ports, such as Trincomallee, Jaffna, Galle, and Co- 
 lumbo, his Candian Majesty authorises the establishment of 
 a post to keep up a regular communication between the com- 
 manding officer of the forces, and the different garrisons in the 
 island of Ceylon. 
 
 This treaty did not meet with the approbation of the Can- 
 dian courtiers, and they proposed the following articles as the 
 outline of a treaty to be substituted in its stead. 
 
 i. 
 
 Both parties agree to a firm and perpetual alliance. 
 
 ii. 
 
 Both parties shall consider the enemies of the other as their 
 own enemies. 
 
 hi. 
 
 The English shall respect the temples, pagodas, and lands 
 attached to them, as well as the religion of Buddha, which 
 they agree to defend. 
 
 IV. 
 
 The English shall have permission to cut cinnamon as far 
 
EMBASSY TO CANDY IN 1800. 
 
 319 
 
 to the eastward as Ballany-hill, on an annual application be- 
 ing made for that purpose. 
 
 v. 
 
 Deserters from the armies of both parties are mutually to 
 be restored. 
 
 VI. 
 
 The King of Candy shall be permitted to have ten ships, 
 vessels, or donies, as he shall think fit, which shall be allowed 
 to sail from and return to the English ports, with such mer- 
 chandize as is thought proper, and these vessels are neither to 
 be examined nor to pay any duty whatsoever. 
 
 vii. 
 
 The King of Candy will order the cinnamon to be cut, and 
 deliver it to the English, who shall pay the value of it in mo- 
 ney or goods, which must be sent carefully to Candy. 
 
 VIII. 
 
 The old custom of both parties sending an annual embassy 
 shall be renewed and continued. 
 
 In the Cingalese copies of these treaties, his Candian 
 Majesty is styled “ King of Lanka, as great among men as 
 Iswara among the gods.” 
 
 After several long conversations on the subject of the pro- 
 jected treaties, neither of them could be agreed upon, and 
 
320 
 
 EMBASSY TO CANDY IN 1800. 
 
 General Macdowall, therefore, requested that his Majesty 
 might grant him an audience of leave. 
 
 Accordingly on the 23d of April, after the usual ceremonies 
 of introduction, and forms on opening the conversation, the 
 King said that he was much pleased with the expressions of 
 friendship contained in the letter, which the Ambassador had 
 brought to him from the Governor. He asked the General of 
 his age, country, and rank in life, and whether all his wants 
 had been supplied since his arrival at Gonaroova. Presents 
 were then brought in and distributed among the company. 
 They consisted of gold chains, pieces of muslin, pairs of scis- 
 sars, betel boxes and cutters, combs with small teeth, and 
 knives. A portion of these was given to every one of nine 
 gentlemen who were present, but the value of the whole was 
 very trifling. The Ambassador was then permitted to depart 
 from the royal presence, but obliged to repair to the banquet- 
 ing hall, where he was detained till near half past five o’clock 
 in the morning. At parting with the first Adigar, the General 
 expressed his grateful acknowledgements for the personal at- 
 tentions which he had received during his residence in the Can- 
 dian territories, wished well to his Majesty and the nobles, and 
 hoped that he might yet see them in Candy, when they had 
 changed the resolutions which they had now formed. We 
 then set out for Gonaroova, where we arrived long after the 
 sun was up. 
 
 At one o’clock in the afternoon of the 25th of April, the 
 second Adigar attended by two Dessauves, and a number of 
 

 EMBASSY TO CANDY IN 1800. 321 
 
 persons of inferior rank waited on the Ambassador, who was 
 about taking his departure. They accompanied him a few 
 yards on the road, when the Adigar said that the King had 
 ordered him to go that distance with his Excellency, and that 
 the Dessauve of Udapillv was appointed to attend him to 
 Seetavaca. In two hours and a half we arrived at Valgoova- 
 goody, a little before sun-set. The country round this place 
 is rich and beautiful. 
 
 On the 2? th of April we were an hour in reaching the sum- 
 mit of Ballany Candeh, and thirty-five minutes in descending 
 to the bottom of the mountain. Those who rode were three 
 hours and forty-five minutes on the way between Valgoova- 
 goody and Ittapittie. The men took four hours and forty mi- 
 nutes to march it. There had been no rain since the fourteenth 
 of the month, and the road was consequently much better than 
 we expected to find it. 
 
 By orders from Columbo, a few days were then spent in 
 attempting to renew negotiations with the court of Candy. 
 
 On the 30th of April the General visited a temple of 
 Buddha on the summit of a rock: in going to which he ascended 
 upwards of five hundred steps cut out of the rock. 
 
 On the 3d of May he walked from Ittapittie to Iddamal- 
 pany in three hours and fifty minutes. We who rode were 
 four hours and a half on the journey, and were obliged to dis- 
 mount from our horses frequently. The escort took six hours 
 
 2 T 
 
 VOL. II.' 
 
322 
 
 EMBASSY TO CANDY IN 1800. 
 
 to march it, the same time that they spent on the road in 
 going up. 
 
 On the 5th we travelled from Iddamalpany to the Rest- 
 house of Roovangwello, on the banks of the Calany-ganga, in 
 four hours and a half; but the troops took much longer. 
 
 On the 6th the Dessau ve of Udapilly took leave of the 
 Ambassador, in consequence of being informed that he in- 
 tended to proceed by water from this place to Columbo. Charge 
 of the detachment was given to Colonel Torrens. 
 
 On the 7th, at six o’clock in the morning, the General and 
 his suite embarked in a boat at Roovangwello, and arrived at 
 the Grand Pass at eight in the evening, having been fourteen 
 hours on the river, including halts which amounted to an hour 
 and a half. At nine o’clock he entered the fort of Columbo; 
 and next morning at sun-rise a salute of seventeen guns was 
 fired from the ramparts to announce the return of his Excel- 
 lency the Ambassador. 
 
 During the greater part of the time that we were employed 
 on this embassy, rain fell in the evening. The highest point, 
 at which Farenheit’s thermometer was observed in the shade, 
 was that of 92°, and the lowest that of 72 degrees. 
 

 EMBASSY TO CANDY IN 1800. 
 
 Itinerary from Columbo to Candy. 
 
 1 S 00 . 
 
 March 10 . 
 
 Pannebakkery . . . . 
 
 Miles. 
 
 4 
 
 Total. 
 
 13. 
 
 Kadavilly 
 
 .... 6 
 
 10 
 
 15. 
 
 Hangwell 
 
 10 
 
 
 18. 
 
 Avisavelly 
 
 
 
 19- 
 
 Seetavaca 
 
 
 
 o<2. 
 
 Epillapitty 
 
 2 
 
 
 24. 
 
 King’s Garden . . . 
 
 .... 6 
 
 
 31. 
 
 Roovangwello. . . . 
 
 1 
 
 
 April 1 . 
 
 Iddamalpany 
 
 14 .... , 
 
 
 3. 
 
 Ittapitty 
 
 
 
 5. 
 
 Yalgoovagooda . . . 
 
 9 .... 
 
 .... 79 
 
 7. 
 
 Gonaroova 
 
 
 
 9- 
 
 Candy 
 
 
 .... 91 
 
 
 From Candy to Colombo. 
 
 
 
 
 Miles. 
 
 Total 
 
 <?4 
 
 Grvnarnrrpn 
 
 . 4 .. 
 
 . 4 
 
 25. 
 
 Valgoovagooda 
 
 . 8 
 
 
 27. 
 
 T M-rmittv 
 
 . 9 
 
 . 21 
 
 
 
 
 May 3. 
 
 Iddamalpany ..=.... 
 
 . 15 
 
 . 36 
 
 5. 
 
 Roovangwello 
 
 . 14 
 
 
 • 7. 
 
 Columbo, by water . . 
 
 . 41 
 
 . 91 
 
 \ 
 
 323 
 
 t 
 

 cS t >& .ovj 3r\T 3 • rjc-j <-»?.;>, > xov ? 
 
 > 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 KNOX’S ACCOUNT OF THE KING AND GOVERNMENT OF CANDY IN 
 THE YEAR ]6S1. THE KING'S GREAT OFFICERS AND GOVER- 
 NORS OF THE PROVINCES. MILITARY STRENGTH, AND MODE 
 OF WARFARE. 
 
 Knox, speaking of the King of Candy, says, “ Rajah Shiga 
 is his name, which signifies the lion King .” — “ On his head he 
 wears a cap with four corners like a Jesuit’s, three tier high, 
 and a feather standing upright before, like that in the head of 
 a fore-horse in a team, a long band hanging down his back 
 after the Portuguese fashion, his doublet after so strange a 
 shape that 1 cannot well describe it, the body of one, and the 
 sleeves of another colour. He wears long breeches down to his 
 ankles, shoes and stockings. He doth not always keep to one 
 fashion, but changes as his fancy leads him; but always when 
 he goes abroad, his sword hangs by his side in a belt over his 
 shoulder, which no Chingulays dare wear, only white men 
 may: a gold hilt, and scabbard mostly of beaten gold. Com- 
 monly he holdeth in his hand a small cane, painted of divers 
 colours, with a head of gold, and towards the lower end set 
 round about with such stones as he hath and pleaseth. 
 
 “ His palace at Digligy-neur is inclosed by a clay wall, 
 and thatched to prevent the clay being melted by the rains. 
 
KNOx’s ACCOUNT OF THE KING, &C. 
 
 325 
 
 Within this wall it is all full of houses, most of which are low 
 and thatched; but some are two stories high, and t)ded very 
 handsomely, with open galleries for air, rayled about with 
 turned banisters, one ebony, and one painted, but not much 
 prospect, standing between two hills. And, indeed, the King 
 lives there not so much for pleasure as security! The palace 
 itself hath many large and stately gates two-leaved; these 
 gates, with their posts, excellently carved; the iron work there- 
 unto belonging, as bolts and locks, all rarely engraven. The 
 windows inlaid with silver plates and ebony. On the top of 
 the houses of his palace and treasury, stand earthen pots at 
 each corner, which are for ornament; or, which is a newer 
 fashion, something made of earth resembling flowers and 
 branches. And no houses besides, except temples, may have 
 these placed upon them. The contrivance of his palace is, as 
 I may say, like Woodstock Bower, with many turnings and 
 windings, and doors, he himself having ordered and contrived 
 all these buildings, and the manner of them. At all the doors 
 and passages stand watches; and they who thus give attend- 
 ance are not to pass without special order from one place to 
 another, but are to remain in that place or at that gate where 
 the King hath appointed them. By means of these contrivances 
 it is not easy to know in what part or place his person is, nei- 
 ther doth he care they should. 
 
 “ He has strong watches night and day about his court. 
 His grandees watch in person in certain places, where the King 
 himself appoints them; and they dare not be absent from 
 
326 KNOx's ACCOUNT OF TIIE KING 
 
 thence, without it be to go to eat, or upon such like occasions. 
 At night they all have their set places within the court, where 
 one cannot come to the speech of the other, neither dare they 
 that are near together, or in sight one of the other, so much 
 as come and sit together and talk to pass away the nights. All 
 these great men have soldiers under them, and they also come 
 by turns to watch in the court. But at night as their masters 
 and commanders watch within the walls, so they must watch 
 without, in outward courts and guards; neither dare any of 
 them be seen within with their commanders. At the end of 
 every watch there are a multitude of trumpets and drums to 
 make a noise, which is to keep his people waking, and for the 
 honour of his Majesty. There are also elephants, which arc 
 appointed to stand and watch all night, lest there should be 
 any tumult, which if there should, could presently trample 
 down a multitude. 
 
 “ He hath also a guard of cofferies or negroes, in whom he 
 imposeth more confidence than in his own people. These 
 watch at his chamber door, and next his person. 
 
 “ x \t uncertain times he sends out a spy by night to see 
 what watch is kept. Who once finding one of the great men 
 asleep, took his cap, sword, and other arms, who afterwards 
 restored them to the owner again, reproving him, and bidding 
 him take more heed for the future. These spies also are to 
 hear and see what passes; neither is there any thing said or 
 done but he has notice of it. 
 
 “ Most of his attendants are boys and young men that are 
 
AND GOVERNMENT OE CANDY. 
 
 327 
 
 well favoured and of good parentage. For supplying himself 
 with these, he gives order to his Dissavas or Governors of the 
 country to pick and choose out boys that are comely and of 
 good descent and send them to the court. These boys go 
 bare-headed with long hair hanging down their backs. From 
 this it is not meant to imply that he is guilty of sodomy, for 
 I never so much as heard the sin mentioned among them. 
 
 “ He hath many women belonging to his kitchen, choosing 
 to have his meat dressed by them. Several times he hath sent 
 into the country a command to gather handsome young women 
 of the Chingulayes to recruit his kitchen, with no exceptions 
 whether married or unmarried: and those who are chosen for 
 that service never return back again. Once since my being in 
 the land, all the Portuguese women who were young and w hite 
 were sent for to the court, no matter whether maids or wives, 
 where some remained until now, and some who were not ami- 
 able in his sight w r ere sent home; and some having purchased 
 his displeasure were cast into a river, which is his manner of 
 executing women. Others w’ere sent prisoners into the coun- 
 try, and none admitted to speech or sight of them.” 
 
 “ His right and lawful Queen, who w r as a Malabar brought 
 from the coast, is still living in the city of Cande, where he 
 left her, but hath not been with him these twenty years.” 
 
 “ Concubines he kecpeth not many. Some live within 
 his palace. And those whose office is about his kitchen are 
 reported to be of that description, which is not improbable, 
 seeing he admits none but them who are young and very hand- 
 
328 
 
 KNOXS ACCOUNT OF THE KING 
 
 some to the employment. Others of his women dwell in towns 
 near to the city, into which no stranger is permitted to go, nay 
 it is dangerous to approach near. These towns have this pri- 
 vilege, that if any slave flee from his master and go thither, he 
 is safe and free from his master’s service, but still remains a 
 slave there to them. 
 
 “ Sometimes he walketh about his palace, where there are 
 certain pedestals of stone whitened with lime and laid in oil, 
 so that they look purely white, made and set up in divers 
 places: here he stands when he comes forth, that he may be 
 above the rest of the people and see about him. But when he 
 is minded to go abroad, though it be ever so little a way, and 
 he seldom or never goes far, order is given some time before 
 for all soldiers Qf his guards, which are a great many, it may 
 be thousands, together with a Dutch and Portugal Captain 
 with their flags, and soldiers, drummers, trumpeters,, pipers, 
 singers, and all belonging, as elephants, horses, falkeners with 
 their faulkons, and many others, to stand at the gate in readi- 
 ness to attend his pleasure. And though he means not to come 
 forth, yet they must wait in this manner until he give order 
 that they may depart to their houses. Commonly all this 
 assembly is gathered together at the palace three or four times 
 before he comes out once. And oftentimes he comes out when 
 none there are aware of it, with only those who attend on his 
 person within his palace. And then when it is heard that his 
 Majesty is come forth, they all run ready to break their necks, 
 and place themselves at a distance to guard his person and 
 
AND GOVERNMENT OF CANDY. 
 
 329 
 
 wait his pleasure. Sometimes, but very seldom, he comes 
 forth riding upon a horse or an elephant. Usually he is brought 
 out in a palanquin, which is not nearly so well made as in 
 other parts of India. The ends of the bamboo, by which it 
 is carried, are largely tipped with silver, curiously wrought 
 and engraven: for he hath very good workmen of that pro- 
 fession. 
 
 “ When he comes thus abroad, he goes for his diversion to 
 a banqueting-house built by the side of a pond, which he has 
 made/’ 
 
 “ He is temperate both in his diet and his lust. Of the 
 former, I am informed by those who have attended on his per- 
 son in his palace, that though he hath all sorts of varieties 
 which the land affords brought to his table, yet his chief fare is 
 herbs, and ripe pleasant fruits, and this but once a day. What- 
 soever is brought for him to eat or drink is covered with a white 
 cloth, and whoever brings it hath a muffler tied about his 
 mouth, lest he should breathe upon the King’s food. He sits 
 upon a stool before a small table covered with a white cloth, 
 all alone. He eats off a green plantain leaf laid in a gold 
 bason. Twenty or thirty dishes are prepared for him, and 
 brought into his dining-room: and which of these dishes the 
 King pleases to call for, a nobleman appointed for that ser- 
 vice, takes a portion of and reaches in a ladle to the King’s 
 bason. This person also waits with a muffler about his mouth. 
 
 “ As the King is abstemious in his eating, so he is mo- 
 derate in the use of women. When he useth them it is 
 
 VOL. II. 
 
 2 If 
 
330 
 
 KNOX S ACCOUNT Ol’ THE KING 
 
 unknown and with great secresy. He allows not whoredom or 
 adultery in his court; and many times when he hears of the 
 misdemeanors of his nobles in regard of women, he not only 
 executes them, but severely punisheth the females: and he 
 hath so many spies, that little is done which he knows not of. 
 Often he gives command to expel all the women out of the 
 city, not one to remain. But by little and little, when they 
 think his wrath is appeased, they creep in again. But no 
 women of any quality dare presume, and if they would they 
 cannot, the watches having charge given them not to let them 
 pass. Some have been taken concealed under man’s apparel, 
 and what became of them all may judge, for they never went 
 home again. Rebellion does not more displease this King, 
 than for his nobles to have to do with women. Therefore, 
 when they are admitted to his court to wait upon him, they 
 are not permitted to enjoy the company of their wives no more 
 than that of any other women. Neither hath he suffered any 
 for near these twenty years to have their wives in the city, ex- 
 cept slaves or inferior servants.” 
 
 “ The Dutch knowing his proud spirit make their advan- 
 tage of it, by flattering him with their ambassadors, tell him 
 that they are his Majesty's humble subjects and servants , and that 
 it is out of their loyalty to him that they build forts, and keep 
 watches round about his country , to prevent foreign nations and 
 enemies from coming ; and that as they are thus employed in his 
 Majesty's service, so it is for sustenance that they come up into his 
 country. Thus by flattering him, and ascribing to him high 
 
AND GOVERNMENT OF CANDY. 
 
 331 
 
 and honourable titles, which are things he greatly delights in; 
 sometimes they prevail to have the country (they have invaded) 
 and he to have the honour. Yet at other times, on better con^ 
 sideration, he will not be flattered, but falls upon them un- 
 awares, and does them great damage.” 
 
 “ He is crafty, cautious, a great dissembler, nor doth he 
 want wisdom. He is not passionate in his anger. For with 
 whomsoever he is angry he will not shew it: neither is he rash 
 nor over-hasty in any matters, but doth all things with delibe- 
 ration, though but with little advice, asking counsel of no 
 body but himself. He accounts it wit and policy to lie and 
 dissemble, that his intents and purposes may the better be 
 concealed; but he abhorreth and punisheth those who lie to 
 him.” 
 
 “ He seems to be naturally disposed to cruelty: for he 
 sheds a great deal of blood without giving any reason for it. 
 His cruelty appears both in the tortures and painful deaths he 
 inflicts, and in the extent of his punishments, viz. upon whole 
 families for the miscarriage of one in them. When the King 
 is displeased with any, he does not always command to kill 
 them outright, but first to torment them, which is done by- 
 cutting and pulling away their flesh by pincers, burning them 
 with hot irons clapped to them to make them confess of their 
 confederates; and this they do to rid themselves of their tor- 
 ments, confessing far more than ever they saw r or knew. After 
 their confession, sometimes he commands to hang their tw r o 
 hands about their necks, and to make them eat their own flesh, 
 
352 
 
 KNOXS ACCOUNT OF THE KING 
 
 and their own mothers to eat of their own children, and so to 
 lead them through the city in public view to terrify all unto 
 the place of execution, the dogs following to eat them. For 
 they are so accustomed to it, that seeing a prisoner led away 
 they follow after. At the place of execution there are always 
 some sticking upon poles, others hanging up in quarters upon 
 trees, besides what lie killed by elephants on the ground, or by 
 other ways. This place is always on the greatest high way, 
 that all may see it and stand in awe.” 
 
 “ His banqueting-house stands on a little hill, where with 
 abundance of pains and man)’’ months labour they have made 
 a little plain, in length not much above an arrow’s flight, in 
 breadth less. At the head of a small valley he hath made a 
 bank across to stop the water, which is now become a fine 
 pond and exceeding full of fish. At this place the King hath 
 several houses built acording to his own plans very handsome, 
 borne up with carved pillars and painted, and round about 
 rails and banisters turned, one painted and one ebony, like 
 balconie. Some stand high on a wall for him to sit in, and 
 see sport with his elephants and other beasts, as also for a pro- 
 spect abroad. Others stand over this pond, where he himself 
 sits and feeds his fish with boiled rice, fruits, and sweet-meats. 
 They are so tame that they come and eat of his hand; but 
 never doth he suffer any to be catched.” (Knox says, in an- 
 other part of his w^ork, that he hath “ seen the fish eat out of 
 men’s hands, at a passage-place near to the city of Candy.”) 
 “ This pond is useful for his elephants to w ash in. The plain 
 
AND GOVERNMENT OF CANDY. 
 
 333 
 
 was made for his horses to run upon. For oftentimes he com- 
 mands his grooms to get up and ride in his presence; and some- 
 times for that good service gives the rider five or ten shillings, 
 and it may be a piece of cloth. When he comes forth, his 
 horses are always brought out ready saddled before him; but 
 he himself mounts them very seldom. All these he had from 
 the Dutch, some sent to him as presents, and some taken in 
 war. He hath in all twelve or fourteen: some of which are 
 Persian horses.” 
 
 “ He hath eight or nine small iron cannon, lately taken 
 from the Dutch, which he hath mounted in field carriages, all 
 rarely carved and inlaid with silver and brass, and coloured 
 stones set in convenient places, and painted with images and 
 flowers. But the guns disgrace the carriages. They are kept 
 in a house on the plain, and used upon occasion of some fes- 
 tivals. I think they are set there chiefly for a memorial of his 
 late victories: for he hath many far better guns of brass that 
 are not so regarded. 
 
 “ He takes great delight in swimming, in which he is very 
 expert: and the custom is, that when he goes into the water, 
 all his attendants who can swim must go in likewise.” 
 
 “ The country being wholly the King’s, he farms out his 
 land, not for money, but service. The people enjoy portions 
 of land from the King, and instead of rent, they have their 
 several appointments: some are to serve the King in his wars, 
 some in their trades, some serve him as labourers, and others 
 are as farmers to furnish his house with the fruits of the ground: 
 
334 
 
 KNOx’s ACCOUNT OF THE KING 
 
 so all things are done without cost, and every man paid for his 
 pains: that is, the}' have lands for it; yet all have not watered 
 land enough for their needs, that is, such land as is requisite 
 for good rice to grow in, so that such are fain to sow on dry 
 land, and till other men’s fields for a subsistence. Tliese per- 
 sons are free from payment of taxes, only sometimes upon 
 extraordinary occasions, they must give a hen or mat, or such 
 like for the King’s use. If any find the duty heavy or too 
 much for them, they may leave their house and land and be 
 free from the King’s service, as a multitude do; and in my 
 judgement they live far more at ease, after they have relin- 
 quished the King’s land than when they had it. 
 
 “ Many towns are in the King’s hand, the inhabitants of 
 which till and manure a quantity of the land according to their 
 ability, and lay up the corn for the King’s use. These towns 
 the King often bestows on some of his nobles for their encou- 
 ragement and maintenance, with all the fruits and benefits that 
 before came to the King. In each of these towns is a smith to 
 make and mend the tools of the persons to whom the King 
 hath granted them, a potter to fit them with earthen ware, a 
 washer to wash their clothes, and other men to supply what 
 there is need of. Each of these hath a piece of land for his 
 service to the King or the Lord; but what they do for the 
 other people they are paid for. Thus all who have any place 
 or employment under the King, are paid without any charge 
 to him.” 
 
AND GOVERNMENT OF CANDY. 
 
 335 
 
 “ Of the Kings great Officers, and the Governors of the 
 
 Provinces. 
 
 “ There are two, who are the greatest and highest officers 
 in the land. They are called Adigars, 1 may term them Chief 
 Judges; under whom is the government of the cities, and the 
 countries also in the vacancy of other governors. All people 
 have liberty in default of justice to appeal to these Adigars, or 
 if their causes and differences be not decided by their gover- 
 nors according to their minds. 
 
 “ To these there are many officers and sergeants belong- 
 ing. All of whom, to be known, carry staves in their hands 
 like to handles , the crooked end uppermost, which none but 
 they dare carry. The sight of which staves, upon what mes- 
 sage soever they be sent, signifies as much as the Adigars 
 hand and seal. If the Adigar be ignorant of what belongs to 
 his place or office, these men instruct him what and how to 
 do. The like is in ail other places which the King bestows: 
 if they know not what belongs to their places, the inferior 
 officers teach and direct them how to act. 
 
 “ Next under the Adigars are the Dissauvas , who are go- 
 
 O 7 O 
 
 vernors over provinces and counties. There are also other 
 great officers known by the titles of Roterauts , and Vidanies. 
 These men are to provide that good order be kept in the coun- 
 tries over which they are placed, and that the King's accus- 
 tomed duties be brought in due season to the court. They 
 
336 
 
 KNOXS ACCOUNT OF THE KING 
 
 have power also to decide controversies between llie people of 
 their jurisdiction, and to punish contentious and disorderly 
 persons, which they do chiefly by amercing a fine from them, 
 which is for their profit, for it is their own ; and also by com- 
 mitting them to prison: into which when they are once fallen, 
 no means without money can get them out again. But be the 
 fact ever so heinous (murder itself) they can put none to death: 
 the sentence of death being pronounced only by the King. 
 They also are sent upon expeditions in war with their soldiers, 
 and give attendance, and watch at court in their appointed 
 stations. These Dissauvas are also to see that the soldiers 
 in their provinces come in due season and order for that pur- 
 pose. 
 
 “ They are appointed by the King himself, not for life, but 
 during his good pleasure. When they die or remove, often- 
 times their places lie void, sometimes for months, sometimes, 
 perhaps, for years; during which time the Adigar rules and 
 governs those countries, and for his labour receiveth all such 
 incomes and profits as belong to the governor. 
 
 “ When a new governor is appointed over any province, 
 it is the custom that the inhabitants come up to appear before 
 him at the court, for there his residence is. Neither may they 
 come empty handed, but each one must bring his gift or pre- 
 sent with him. These also are expected at other times to be 
 brought unto him by the people, though they have no business 
 with him, no suits or causes to be decided: even private sol- 
 diers at their first coming to their due watch must personally 
 
OF THE GOVERNMENT OF CANDY. 
 
 337 
 
 appear before their commander, and if he have nothing else, 
 he must present him with forty leaves of green betel, which 
 he with his own hand receiveth, and they with both theirs 
 deliver into his, which is taken for an honour he vouchsafes 
 them. 
 
 “ The chief officer under the governor is the Courlividani, 
 who manages the business of the country. Next to him is the 
 Congconna or Overseer. Besides him there is a Courti-Achila 
 like our Constable, who puts in execution what the Governor 
 orders, forwards what the land affords for the King’s use, and 
 sends persons to court who are summoned. In the discharge 
 of his office he may call in the assistance of any man. 
 
 “ The next officer under the Governor is the Liannah, the 
 Writer , who reads letters brought, and takes account of all 
 business, and of what is sent to the court. He also keeps re- 
 gisters, writes letters, and takes notice of things happening. 
 
 “ Next to him is the Undia; a word which signifies a lump. 
 This person gathers the King’s money; and is so styled because 
 he gathers it together into a lump. 
 
 “ After him is the Monnanncih, the Measurer. His duty is 
 to measure the corn that grows upon the King’s land, or what 
 other corn belongeth to him. 
 
 “ There are still other officers, whose business it is, upon 
 the death of the head of a family, to fetch away the King’s 
 marrals, harriots as I may call them, viz. a bull and a cow, a 
 male and female buffalo out of his stock, which are by custom 
 due to the King. Others carry away in harvest certain mea- 
 
 2 X 
 
 VOL. II. 
 
338 
 
 KNOx’s ACCOUNT OF THE 
 
 sures of corn out of every man’s crop, according to the rate of 
 his land. 
 
 “ For hearing complaints and doing justice among neigh- 
 bours, there are country-courts of judicature, consisting of 
 these officers, together with the head-men of the places and 
 towns where the courts are kept. But if any think themselves 
 wronged, and do not choose to stand by their determination, 
 they may appeal to their Head-governor, who dwells at court; 
 but it is expensive, as he must have a fee. They may appeal 
 also from him to the Adigars. But whoso gives the greatest 
 bribe, he shall overcome. For it is a common saying in this 
 land, that he that has money to fee the Judge , needs not fear nor 
 care whether his cause he right or not. The greatest punishment 
 that these judges can inflict upon the greatest malefactors, is 
 but imprisonment, from which money will release them.” 
 
 “ Of the King's Strength and Wars.” 
 
 “ The King’s power consists in the natural strength of his 
 country, in his watches , and in the craft , more than the courage , 
 of his soldiers. 
 
 “ He hath no artificial forts or castles, but nature hath sup- 
 plied the want of them. For the whole country of Cande-uda 
 stands upon such high hills, and those so difficult to pass, that 
 it is all an impregnable fort: and so is more especially Digligy- 
 neur, his present palace. 
 
 “ There are constant Watches set in convenient places in all 
 parts of the country, and Thorn-gates ; but in tune of danger, 
 
MILITARY AFFAIRS OF CANDY. 
 
 339 
 
 besides the ordinary watches, others are added in all towns, 
 and in all places, and in every cross road exceeding thick, so 
 that it is not possible for any one to pass unobserved. These 
 thorn-gates which I here mention and have done before, are 
 made of a sort of thorn-bush, or thorn-tree; each stick or 
 branch whereof thrusts out on all sides round about sharp 
 prickles, like iron rails, of three or four inches long: one of 
 these very thorns I have lately seen in the repository at Gresham 
 College. These sticks or branches being as big as a good cane, 
 are platted one very close to another, and so being fastened 
 and tied to three or four upright spars are made in the fashion 
 of a door. This is hung upon a door case ten or twelve feet 
 high, (so that they may, and do ride through upon elephants) 
 made of three pieces of timber like a gallows, after this man- 
 ner n, the thorn door hanging upon the transverse piece like a 
 shop window, and so they lift it up, or clap it down as there 
 is occasion, and tie it with a rope to a cross bar. 
 
 “ But especially in all roads and passages from the city 
 which the King now inhabits, very strict watches are kept, 
 which suffer none to pass without a passport, which is the print 
 of a seal in clay: it is given at the court to them who have 
 license to go through the watches. The seals are different, 
 according to the profession of the party : to a soldier is given 
 the print of a man with a pike on his shoulder: to a labourer, 
 a man with two bags hanging on each end of a pole upon his 
 shoulder, which is the manner they commonly carry their loads. 
 To a white man, the passport is the print of a man with a 
 
340 
 
 KNOX'S ACCOUNT OF THE 
 
 sword by his side, and a hat on his head, and as many men 
 as there are in the company, so many prints there must be in 
 the clay.” 
 
 Besides the Dissauvas, spoken of before, who are great 
 generals, there are other great captains, as those they call 
 Mote-Rails , as much as to say Scribes , because they keep the 
 rolls or registers of certain companies of soldiers, each contain- 
 ing nine hundred and seventy men, who are under their com- 
 mand. Of these Mote-Rails, there are four principal. But 
 besides these there are smaller commanders over soldiers, who 
 receive their appointments from the King, and are not under 
 the command of the former great ones. 
 
 “ All these both commanders and common soldiers must 
 wait at the court with this difference. The great men must do 
 it continually, each one having his particular watch appointed 
 by the King. But the private soldiers take their turns of 
 watching, and when they go, they carry all their provisions 
 for the time of their stay with them upon their backs. These 
 soldiers are not listed, but are by succession the son after the 
 father. For which service they enjoy certain lands and in- 
 heritances, which are instead of wages or pay. If they omit 
 or neglect this duty, they lose or forfeit their inheritance; or 
 if they please to be released or discharged they may, by part- 
 ing with their land. Then their commander placeth another 
 in their room, but as long as the land lies void, he converts 
 the profits to his own use. He who takes it afterwards gives 
 a bribe to the commander, who yet notwithstanding will not 
 
MILITARY AFFAIRS OF CANDY. 
 
 341 
 
 permit him to hold it above two or three years, unless he re- 
 new his bribe. 
 
 “ The soldiers of the high lands, called Cande-uda, are 
 dispersed all over the land, so that one scarcely knows the 
 other, the King not suffering many neighbours and townsmen 
 to be in one company, which hath always heretofore been so 
 ordered for fear of conspiracies. 
 
 “ When the King sends any of these commanders with their 
 armies abroad to war or otherwise, sometimes they see not his 
 face, but he sends out their orders to them by a messenger: at 
 other times he admits them into his presence, and gives them 
 their orders with his own mouth, but nothing in writing. And 
 when several of them are sent together upon any design, there 
 is not any one appointed to be chief commander or general 
 over the whole army; but each one as being chief over his 
 own men, disposeth and ordereth them according to his plea- 
 sure. This sometimes begets disagreement among themselves, 
 and by these means their designs 'are frustrated. Neither 
 doth the King like or approve that the great commanders 
 of his soldiers should be very intimate or good friends, lest 
 they should conspire against him, nor will he allow them to 
 disagree in such a manner as to be publickly known and 
 observed. 
 
 “ When there are any tidings to send the King, they do 
 not send in general together by consent, but each one sends 
 particularly by himself; and their common practice is to in- 
 
342 KNOX’S ACCOUNT OF THE 
 
 form what they can one against another, thinking thereby to 
 obtain the most favour and good will from the King. 
 
 “ When the armies are sent abroad, as he doth send them 
 very often against the Dutch, it goeth very hard with the sol- 
 diers, who must carry their victuals and pots to dress it upon 
 their backs, besides their arms, which are swords, pikes, bows 
 and arrows, and good guns. As for tents, for their armies 
 always lie in the field, they carry with them Tallipat leaves, 
 which are very light and convenient. With these they make 
 their tents, fixing sticks into the ground, and laying other 
 pieces of wood athwart, after the manner of the roof of a house, 
 and so lay their leaves over all to shoot the rains off; making 
 these tents stronger or slighter, according to the time of their 
 tarriance. Having spent what provisions they carried out with 
 them, they go home to fetch more, so that after a month or 
 two a great part of the army is always absent/’ 
 
 “ In their war but little valour is used, although they do 
 accomplish many notable exploits. For all they do is by crafty 
 stratagems. They will never meet their enemies in the field 
 to give them a repulse by battle and force of arms ; neither is 
 the enemy like to meet with any opposition at their first going 
 out to invade the King’s coasts, the King’s soldiers knowing 
 the adverse forces are at first wary and vigilant, as also well 
 provided with all necessaries. But their usual practice is to 
 way-lay them, and stop up the ways before them, there being 
 convenient places in all the roads, which they have contrived 
 
MILITARY AFFAIRS OF CANDY. 
 
 343 
 
 for such purposes. At these places the woods are not suf- 
 fered lo be felled, but kept to shelter them from the sight of 
 their enemies. Here they lie lurking, and plant their guns 
 between the rocks and trees, with which they do great damage 
 to their enemies before they are aware. Nor can they then 
 suddenly rush in upon them, being so well guarded with bushes 
 and rocks before them, through which before their enemies 
 can get, they flee, carrying their great guns upon their shoul- 
 ders and are gone into the woods, where it is impossible to 
 find them, until they come themselves to meet them after the 
 former manner. 
 
 “ They likewise prepare against the enemy's coming great 
 bushy trees, having them ready cut, hanging only by withes 
 which grow in the wood ; these as they march along they let 
 fall among them with many shot and arrows. 
 
 “ Being sent upon any design they are very circumspect to 
 keep it hidden from the enemy’s knowledge, by suffering only 
 those to pass who may make for their benefit and advantage; 
 their great endeavour being to take their enemies unprovided 
 and at unawares. 
 
 “ By the long wars first between them and the Portuguese, 
 and since with the Hollander, they have had such ample ex- 
 perience as hath much improved them in the art of war above 
 what they were formerly. Many of the chief commanders 
 and leaders of their armies are men who formerly served the 
 Portuguese against them. By which thej r come to know the 
 disposition and discipline of Christian armies, insomuch that 
 
344 
 
 KNOx's ACCOUNT OF THE 
 
 they have given the Dutch several overthrows, and taken forts 
 from them which they had up in the country. 
 
 “ If the King’s men do not successfully accomplish the 
 design he sends them upon, to be sure the} r shall have a lusty 
 piece of work given them to take revenge on them; for not 
 using their weapons well he exercises them with other tools, 
 houghs and pickaxes about his palace. During the time they 
 stay to work they must bring their victuals with them, not 
 having money there to buy. They cannot carry a quantity 
 sufficient for above one month, and when their provisions are 
 all spent, if they will have any more, they must go home and 
 fetch them. But that is not permitted them without giving a 
 fee to the Governor or his Overseer. Neither can they go 
 without his leave, for besides the punishment, the watches 
 which are in every road from the King’s city will stop and seize 
 them.” 
 
 “ At the Court of Committees for the East India Company , 
 the 10 th of August, 1681. 
 
 “ We esteem Captain Knox a man of truth and integrity, 
 and that his relations and accounts of the Island of Ceylon 
 which some of us have lately perused in manuscripts) are wor- 
 thy of credit, and therefore encouraged him to make the same 
 publick. 
 
 “ Robert Blackbourne, Secretary. 
 
 . “ By Order of the said Court.” 
 
MILITARY AFFAIRS OF CANDY. 
 
 345 
 
 “ Mr. Chiswell, 
 
 “ August 8th, 1681. 
 
 “ I perused Captain Knox's Description 
 of the Isle of Ceylon, which seems to be written with great 
 truth and integrity; and the subject being new, containing an 
 account of a people and country little known to us; I con- 
 ceive it may give great satisfaction to the curious, and may be 
 well worth your publishing. 
 
 “ Chr. Wren.” 
 
 Civil and Military Establishment in Ceylon in 1806. 
 
 CIVIL. 
 
 Lieutenant Gen. Right Hon. Thomas Maitland, Governor. 
 Honourable John Rodney, Chief Secretary. 
 
 Alexander Wood, Esq. Commissioner General of Revenue. 
 Robert Boyd, Esq. Vice Treasurer. 
 
 Samuel Tolfrey, Esq. Paymaster General. 
 
 Edmund Henry Lushington, Esq. Chief Justice. 
 Alexander Johnston, Esq. Advocate Fiscal. 
 
 James Dunkin, Esq. 
 
 Frederick Baron Mylius. 
 
 Mr. Henry Layard. 
 
 Kirby. 
 
 2 Y 
 
 VOL. Il£ 
 
346 CIVIL AND MILITARY ESTABLISHMENT IN 1806. 
 
 Hon. Geo. Melville Leslie. 
 
 Mr. Anthony Bertolacci 
 Henry Powney. 
 
 Alexander Cadell. 
 
 Alexander Johnston, junior. 
 
 John Dean. 
 
 John D’Oyly. 
 
 Rennel. 
 
 Richard Plasket. 
 
 Henry Augustus Marshall. 
 
 Edward Tolfrey. 
 
 George Lusignan. 
 
 William Montgomery. 
 
 Thomas Eden. 
 
 Grenville. 
 
 Thomas Layard. 
 
 Hon. and Rev. J. T. Twisleton, Chaplain to Government. 
 
 MILITARY. 
 
 Lieut. Gen. Rt. Hon. Thos. Maitland, Com. of the Forces. 
 Brig. Gen. Charles Baillie, second in command. 
 
 Colonel Wilson, Brigade Major to Com. of the Forces. 
 Captain Edwards, Military Aud. Gen. and Town Major. 
 Lieutenant Col. Brownrig, Dep. Adjutant General. 
 
 Arnet, Esq. Paymaster King’s Troops. 
 
 Major John Willson, Barrack Master. 
 
 Lieutenant-Col. T. W. Kerr, Judge Advocate. 
 
CIVIL AND MILITARY ESTABLISHMENT IN 1806. 347 
 
 Lieutenant Bridges, Chief Engineer. 
 
 Captain Frederick Hankey, Maj. Brig. King’s Troops. 
 
 Colebrooke, Brig. Maj. Royal Artillery. 
 
 Thomas Christie, Esq. Superintendant of Hospitals. 
 
 Rev. W. H. Hey wood, Chaplain of Brigade. 
 
 Three companies of the Royal Regiment of Artillery under 
 Colonel Debrisay. 
 
 His Majesty’s 19th, 51st, and 66th regiments of foot. 
 
 1st Ceylon or Malay regiment, Colonel Josiah Champagne, 
 Major General. 
 
 2d Ceylon, or native regiment of infantry, Colonel William 
 
 > 
 
 Ramsay, Major General. 
 
 3d Ceylon or Caffree regiment, Colonel Charles Baillie, 
 Brigadier General. 
 
 A troop of Cavalry. 
 
 A corps of Pioneers. 
 
/ 
 
 
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GLOSSARY 
 
 AdIGAR. A title corresponding to that of 
 minister of state. The first Adigar is 
 the prime minister. 
 
 Amlulam. A house, or shed for travellers 
 to rest in. 
 
 AmmonatJi. A measure containing sixteen 
 parrhas of paddee, or 25,000 areka 
 nutsj also a piece of ground capable of 
 producing that quantity of paddee. 
 
 Appohamy. A messenger, or courier. 
 
 Aumildar. A collector of revenue. 
 
 Bamboo. A species of cane which grows to 
 the thickness of a man’s thigh. 
 
 Bandy. A gig, or cart. 
 
 Bang. A species of hemp of an intoxicat- 
 ing quality. 
 
 Bangle. A bracelet. A ring for the arm or 
 ankle. 
 
 Banhsal. A shop, office, banking-house, or 
 place for transacting business. A square 
 enclosure at the pearl fishery. 
 
 Banyan tree. Indian fig-tree. Ficus In- 
 dica. 
 
 Batta. Rice. Extra allowance of pay grant- 
 ed to the troops in India. 
 
 Bazar. A market, or market-place. 
 
 Bogaha. Tree of Buddha. Sacred fig. Fi- 
 cus religiosa. 
 
 Bungaloe. A building, or place of shelter, 
 so slightly constructed as scarcely to 
 merit the appellation of a house. 
 
 CaZooc-stone. A mixture of sand and clay 
 of a red colour. 
 
 Qadjan. A palm leaf. 
 
 Caffree, or coffree. A native of Africa. 
 
 Cast. A tribe, or class of people. 
 
 Chalia. A cinnamon peeler. A native of 
 Ceylon, whose employment is to cut 
 down, and bark cinnamon. 
 
 Chanque. A shell which the Hindoos cut 
 into rings or bangles. 
 
 Chitty. A Ceylonese of Malabar extraction, 
 professing Christianity. 
 
 Choultry. A house for the accommodation 
 of travellers. 
 
 Chunam. Lime made of burned shells. 
 
 Coiar. Cordage made from the fibrous 
 husks of the cocoa-nut. 
 
 Conjee. Gruel made of rice. 
 
 Corge. Twenty-five pieces of calico. 
 
 Corle. A county. 
 
 Corel. Superintendant, or chief magistrate 
 of a county. 
 
 Coolie. A person who carries a load. 
 
 Creese. A dagger, of a waving shape, worn 
 by Malays. 
 
350 
 
 GLOSSARY. 
 
 Dessauve. A collector of land revenue. 
 
 Doney. A boat or sloop. 
 
 Dooly. A palanquin of the simplest con- 
 struction. 
 
 Fanam. A silver coin of the value of 2 \d. 
 
 Gartga. River. 
 
 Gentoo. A Hindoo. 
 
 Ghee. Clarified butter, preserved without 
 salt by being boiled. 
 
 Godown. A ware-house, store-room, cellar, 
 pantry. 
 
 Gram. A species of pulse given to horses, 
 sheep, and oxen. 
 
 Gunny. Sack-cloth, or coarse canvass, made 
 from the fibrous roots of the cocoa-nut 
 tree. 
 
 Half-cast. The mixed race between Euro- 
 peans and Indians. 
 
 Havildar. A seijeant. 
 
 Hookah. A complicated instrument for 
 smoking. 
 
 Jaggree. Sugar extracted from different 
 species of the palm. From this word 
 the Latin saccharum is supposed to be 
 derived. 
 
 Jinjal. A matchlock, or large musket, 
 which rests upon long legs, hence, also, 
 called a grasshopper. • 
 
 Jungle. Natural wood. Forests of trees 
 and shrubs. Thickets of shrubs taller 
 than undenvood. The same word is ap- 
 plied,- in Bengal, to tracts of long grass, 
 which grows to an extraordinary height 
 in uncultivated parts of the country. 
 
 Khraal. A snare for catching elephants. 
 
 Lascar. A person employed in dragging 
 artillery, or pitching tents. A sailor. 
 
 Lascoreen. A provincial soldier, inferior in 
 discipline to a sepoy. 
 
 Lew ays. Flat parts of the country, where 
 salt is formed by overflowings of the 
 sea. 
 
 Lingam. An emblem of the generative 
 power. 
 
 Lulhy, or Lelly, a Ceylonese professing 
 the religion of Mahomet. 
 
 Maha. Chief. 
 
 Malakatanni. Pepper and water. A hot 
 soup made with curry stutf. 
 
 Malay. A native of Malacca. 
 
 Modelear. A Cingalese magistrate. 
 
 Mohandiram. The rank next to a mode- 
 lear. 
 
 Monsoon. Season. Periodical wind, and 
 rain. 
 
 Mottiar. A secretary. 
 
 Munduc. A sailor employed at the pearl 
 fishery to haul up the diver, and oysters. 
 
 Myral. Upper servant of a Corel. 
 
 Nindoo. The most common species of wood 
 used in making tables, chairs, &c. 
 
 Oia. River. 
 
 ' Ola, or Oley. A slip of a palm leaf, on 
 which a letter or order is written. 
 
 Out-rigger. A log of wood fastened to a 
 canoe, to prevent it from being upset. 
 
 Padclee. Rice whilst in the husk : rice while 
 growing in the field. 
 
 Pagoda. A Hindoo temple. A gold coin 
 of eight shillings value. 
 
 Pandal. A pavilion erected before a house. 
 A building composed of pillars and a 
 roof. 
 
 Pariar. Lowest cast of Indians. 
 
 Parrha. A measure containing forty pounds 
 of rice in the husk. 
 
 Parveny. Ground which pays tythe to go- 
 vernment. 
 
GLOSSARY. 
 
 351 
 
 Pat too. A province. A division of a county. 
 
 Peon. A servant who carries messages or 
 letters. A person who travels on foot 
 as post. An armed native employed in 
 collecting the revenue. 
 
 Peltah. A town adjoining the esplanade of 
 a fort. 
 
 Puckawly bags. Leather bags for carrying 
 water, generally made of cows’ hides. 
 
 Punka. A large ventilator suspended from 
 the roof of a dining-room, for fanning 
 the company. A smaller instrument 
 , fixed on a pole for the same purpose. 
 
 Rajah. A king. 
 
 Rest-house. An empty house for the accom- 
 modation of travellers. A choultry. 
 
 Rixdollars. A silver coin of the value of 
 two shillings sterling. It; was formerly 
 only nominal like our pound sterling, 
 and counted in copper money. 
 
 Sawmy. God. 
 
 Sepoy. An Indian soldier. 
 
 Tank. An artificial pond for preserving wa- 
 ter. It is generally of a square form, 
 and is used for bathing, as well as for 
 the purposes of agriculture. 
 
 Tappal. The post. 
 
 Tiff'en. A mid-day repast. 
 
 Toddy. Palm wine. Liquor drawn by in- 
 cision from buds at the top of the cocoa- 
 nut, or palmyra tree. 
 
 Tom-tom. A Ceylonese drum. 
 
 Tope. A grove of fruit trees, commonly of 
 cocoas, or palmyras in Ceylon, and 
 mangoes in Bengal. 
 
 Veranda. A projecting roof surrounding the 
 house, (supported on pillars) for the 
 sake of shade. 
 
 IVig-wam. The simplest form of a hut, 
 quickly constructed. 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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INDEX 
 
 / 
 
 N. B. The Roman Numerals refer to the Volume, and the Figures 
 
 to the Page. 
 
 A. 
 
 Adam’s bridge, I. 4, 30. 
 
 peak, I. 8 . 
 
 Adansonia digitata, II. 33. 
 
 Adigars of Candy, II. 159; intrigues of the 
 first Adigar, 1 60. 
 
 Agrabuddhaganni, temple of, I. 187- 
 Agriculture, state of, I. 3g2. 
 
 Air, temperature of, I. 9. 
 
 Albinos, two at Columbo, I. 125. 
 
 Alligators, I. 434. 
 
 Almeyda, (Don Lorenzo) his arrival in Cey- 
 lon, I. 6. 
 
 Almond of Ceylon, I. 369. 
 
 Amethysts, I. 14. 
 
 Amusements of the Cingalese, I. 1 14. 
 Animals of Ceylon, I. 422. 
 
 Ants, different species of, I. 440, 
 
 Apples, I. 387- 
 Areca nut, I. 355. 
 
 Aripo, fort of, I. 299; country about it, 300 ; 
 
 governor’s house, II. 37- 
 Arrack, I. 175, 351. 
 
 Artocarpus, integrifolia, I. 3 5Q-, incisa, 36l. 
 
 B. 
 
 Badool, situation of, I. 206. 
 
 Baillie, (Colonel Charles) I. 192 . 
 
 Bamboo tree, I. 378. 
 
 Banyan tree, I. 362. 
 
 Barbareen, I. 175. 
 
 Barbut (Lb Colonel) his character, I. 308; 
 death, 30 9; II. 201. 
 
 Batticaloe, fort of, 1.251; country round 
 it, 253. 
 
 Bathing, manner of at Columbo, I. 276. 
 Beasts of Ceylon, I. 422. 
 
 Beaver (Captain) his success against the Can- 
 dians, II. 194, 223. 
 
 Bedahs, race of, I. 9 1 . 
 
 * Belligam, I. 190. 
 
 Bentot, oysters of, I. 175. 
 
 Berry-berry, disease of, I. 182. 
 
 Betel leaf, custom of chewing it, I. 98; de- 
 scription of the plant, I. 380. 
 Billimbing, I. 379- 
 Birds of Ceylon, I. 433. 
 
 Bird’s nest, curious species of, I. 207. 
 Boats, (Cingalese) construction of, I. 58. 
 Bogaha, tree of Buddha, I. 199, 366. 
 
 Books, Cingalese, I. 119. 
 
 Borassus flabelliformis, I. 353. 
 
 Brahma, religion of, I. 145. 
 
 Bread-fruit tree, I. 359. 
 
 Breezes, land and sea, I. 1 1 . 
 
 2 z 
 
 VOL. IX. 
 
o5 4 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Buddha, the Saviour of the Ceylonese, I. 
 146; fable of his birth, it. doctrines, 
 148; temples, 150; images, 150, 188; 
 priests, 150. 
 
 Buffaloes, I. 422. 
 
 Bullock’s heart, fruit so called, I. 3/Q. 
 Bungaloes, (Ceylonese) structure of, I, 168. 
 
 C. 
 
 Cabooc-stone, nature of, I. 12. 
 
 Cadumberi wood, I. 381. 
 
 Calaminder wood, 1.381. 
 
 Calany-ganga, I. 346- 
 Callar, II. 134. 
 
 Calpenteen, peninsula of, I. 334; fort, it. 
 Caltura, its fort, I. 174; situation, 1/5. 
 Campaign (Candian) in 1803, II. 167. 
 Canals, I. 50. 
 
 Candian war, narrative of, II. 155. 
 Candians, description of, I. 131. 
 
 Candy, town of, I. 8; II. 181; dominions, 
 I. 133; government, it. 
 
 Cannia, Hot-wells of, I. 2 76. 
 
 Caryota urens, 1 . 357. 
 
 Cashew tree, I. 372. 
 
 Cassia of Sumatra, I. 407. 
 
 Casts, Cingalese, I. 93. 
 
 Caterpillars, I. 442. 
 
 Cat’s eye, a pseudo opal, I. 14. 
 
 Cayenne Pepper plant, I. 381. 
 
 Centipede, I. 439. 
 
 Ceylon, its situation, I. 1; name, 4; con- 
 quest, 6; appearance, 7; rivers, 9; 
 harbours, it. climate, it. soil, 12; fos- 
 sils, 13; roads, 15; revenue, 16. 
 Ceylonese, native inhabitants divided into 
 three great classes, Candians, I. 9O; 
 Cingalese, 92; Malabars, 137. 
 
 Chameleon, I. 435. 
 
 Chanque Shells, II. 7. 
 
 Characteristics of the Cingalese, I. 92. 
 
 Cheta, species of tiger, I. 428. 
 
 Chilauw, I. 340. 
 
 Chitties, I. 16. 
 
 Choultries of Ramisseram, II. 10. 
 
 Christianity, state of in Ceylon, 1.154. 
 
 Christie (Thomas, Esq.) his notes on a jour- 
 ney, II. 128; medical report, 262. 
 
 Cingalese, their character, I. 92; casts, 93; 
 persons, 94; dress, it. various customs, 
 102; language, 119; religion, 145. 
 
 Cinnamon, description of the tree, I. 405; 
 methods of cultivation, 408; manner of 
 stripping off die bark, 41 1 ; packing on 
 board of ship, 413; qualities of good 
 cinnamon, it. places where it grows, 
 414; quantity exported, 4l6; cinna- 
 mon oil, 417; labourers, 418; beauty 
 of the plantations, 419. 
 
 Cinnamon stone, I. 15. 
 
 Climate, of Ceylon, I. 9; of Columbo, I. 6l . 
 
 Clothing of the natives, I. 94. 
 
 Cobra di capello, I. 435. 
 
 Cochin leg, disease so called, I. 182. 
 
 Cocoa-nut tree, its nature, I. 348; various 
 uses, 351. 
 
 Coffee, I. 379. 
 
 Cogel, lake of, I. 185. 
 
 Coiar rope, I. 178. 
 
 Columbo, its fort, I. 27 ; road, 2 9; land- 
 ing place, 28; houses, 31 — 38 ; pettah, 
 38 — 40; suburbs, 43; hamlets, 42; ba- 
 zar, 44; water, 45; rides, 46 — 49; vil- 
 las, 50 — 57; fishing boats, 58; scenery, 
 59; climate, 6l ; British garrison, 65; 
 general staff, 66 ; courts of judicature, 
 67; council, 73; English society, 74; 
 
INDEX. 
 
 355 
 
 weekly clubs, 77; expence of living, 
 80; departure of Governor North, 84; 
 Dutch and Portuguese inhabitants, S7> 
 
 Condatchy, scene of the pearl fishery, 
 II. 36. 
 
 Conjurers, employed there, II. 51. 
 
 Convolvulus, various species of, I. 384. 
 
 Coral rocks, I. 181 , 
 
 Cotton tree, I. 370; shrubs, 37 1 - 
 
 Cow-pox, introduced into Ceylon, I. 255. 
 
 Cultivation, state of, I. 3Q2. 
 
 Curry of Ceylon, I. 104. 
 
 Custard-apple, I. 3/9. 
 
 D. 
 
 Dambadenia, depot there, II. 174; relief of 
 the garrison, 21 9. 
 
 Dances, Cingalese, I. 115; Hindoo, II. 11. 
 
 Davie (Major) a prisoner in Candy, II. 216. 
 
 Deer, various species of, I. 427. 
 
 Divorce, not common among the better sorts 
 of Cingalese, 1.113. 
 
 Dondra-head, I. 195; II. 144; remains of 
 a Hindoo pagoda there, I. 195; II. 29, 
 144. 
 
 Dress of the inhabitants, I. 94. 
 
 Dutch inhabitants, I. 87; houses, il. religi- 
 ous establishments, 88. 
 
 E. 
 
 Earthquakes, not common, I. 11. 
 
 Ear-rings, I. 252. 
 
 Ebony, I. 382. 
 
 Egg-plant, I. 381. 
 
 Elephant hunt, I. 215; plan of insnaring, 
 216; manner of securing the wild ele- 
 phants, 224. 
 
 Elephantiasis, I. 182. 
 
 Embassy to Candy in 1800, II. 162. 
 England takes possession of Ceylon, I. 6. 
 English government, I. 71; society, 74; 
 
 manner of living, 83. 
 
 Entertainments of the Cingalese, I. 115. 
 European inhabitants of Columbo, I. 65. 
 Expence of living, I. 80. 
 
 F. 
 
 False witnesses, I. 163. 
 
 Female dancers, II. 11, 137. 
 
 Ferns, I. 385. 
 
 Fertility of soil, I. 12. 
 
 Ficus, Indica, 1.362; religiosa, 366. 
 
 Fig tree, I. 362. 
 
 Fishes, I. 444. 
 
 Flowers, I. 384. 
 
 Fly-catcher, I. 434. 
 
 Flying-fish, I. 289. 
 
 Fogs, I. 10. 
 
 Food of the Ceylonese, I. 104. 
 
 Formica, I. 440. 
 
 Forts of Columbo, I. 27; Trincomalee, 27l; 
 Point de Galle, 179; Jaffnapatam, 322; 
 Matura, I92 ; Caltura, 174; Negombo, 
 342; Chilauw, 340; Putlam, 338; 
 Calpenteen, 334 ; Aripo, 2 gg ; Ma~ 
 naar, 301. 
 
 Fossils, I. 13. 
 
 Fowls, I. 433. 
 
 Frederic, fort, II. 176. 
 
 Fruits, cocoa-nut, I. 348; palmyra, 353; 
 areca-nut, 355 ; jack, 35Q ; bread fruit, 
 il. Indian fig, 362; religious fig, 3 66; 
 Jamboo, 368; rose apple, 309; almond, 
 ib. tamarind, 370; cashew apple and nut, 
 372; oranges, 37^; pumpletnose, 374; 
 
4 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 356 
 
 guava, 375 ; papai, il. pomegranate, 
 il. plantain, 3/6; mangusteen, 377; 
 mango, il. lime, 378; pine-apple, il. 
 melons, il. custard apple, 379; bul- 
 lock’s heart, ib. billimbing, il. gorka, 
 il. coffee, il. sugar cane, 3SO; black 
 pepper, il. 
 
 Funeral, Dutch, I. 36; Malabar, I. 140. 
 
 G. 
 
 Galkisse, I. 172. 
 
 Gallegedera, Candian fort, II. 1 77. 
 
 Galle, (Point de) fort, I. 179. 
 
 Gamboge, I. 382. 
 
 Gaming, tax on, I. 16. 
 
 Ganarooa, Candian station, II. 297. 
 
 Garnet, I. 15. 
 
 Geeriegamme, Candian strong hold, II. 1 77- 
 Genip, I. 388. 
 
 Ginger, I. 381. 
 
 Gloriosa superba, I. 172. 
 
 Glossary, II. 349. 
 
 Gorka, I. 379- 
 
 Government of Ceylon, I. 73. 
 
 Grand-pass at Columbo, I. 49, 347* 
 
 Grasses, I. 385. 
 
 Grasshoppers, I. 440. 
 
 Grasshopper guns, II. 190. 
 
 Guana, I. 435. 
 
 Guava, I. 3/5. 
 
 Gums, I. 382. 
 
 Guns of the Candians, II. 190. 
 
 H. 
 
 Hambangtotte, II. 107, 142, 241. 
 Hangaramketty, II. 190. 
 
 Hares, I. 428. 
 
 Heat of the climate, I. 9. 
 
 Heetateeah, temple of, I. 208. 
 
 Hibiscus populneus, I. 369. 
 
 Hogs, wild, I. 256, 428; tame, 425. 
 Horses, I. 427. 
 
 Houses, English, I. 30; Dutch, 87; Cey- 
 lonese, 103. 
 
 Hunting of elephants, I. 215. 
 
 Huts at Madrass, I. 41. 
 
 I. 
 
 Ichneumon viverra, its power of destroying 
 snakes, I. 432. 
 
 Impostors, or conjurers at the pearl fishery, 
 II. 51. 
 
 Incursions of the Candians, II. 222. 
 
 Indian fig tree, I. 362. 
 
 Indolence of the Cingalese, I. 92. 
 
 Inhabitants of Ceylon — Bedahs, I. 9I; Cin- 
 galese, 92; English, 76; Dutch, 87; 
 Portuguese, 88; Candians, 131; Mala- 
 bars, 137; Malays, 143. 
 
 Inroads of the Candians, II. 222. 
 
 Insects of Ceylon, I. 440; beetle, il. but- 
 terfly, il. grasshopper, ib. spider, il. 
 fly, il. bee, il. moschetto, il. fire- 
 fly, il. cock-roach, il. bug, il. ant, il. 
 caterpillar, 442. 
 
 Insurrections of the Cingalese, II. 224. 
 
 Interior of Ceylon, I. 7- 
 
 Ixora coccinea, I. 172, 384. 
 
 J. 
 
 Jack-fruit, I. 359; tree, 360. 
 
 Jackal, I. 428. 
 
 Jaffnapatam, its fort, I. 322; pettah, 324; 
 district, 326 ; horses, 427 ; tobacco, 
 328. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Jaggree-tree, I. 357- 
 
 Jaelle, I. 345. 
 
 Jamboo, fruit, I. 368 ; tree, ib. 
 
 Jamboo Malac, I. 369. 
 
 Jasmine, I. 1/2. 
 
 Jinjal pieces, II. 190. 
 
 Judicature, courts of, I. 67. 
 
 Jugglers, II. 74. 
 
 Jungle fowl, I. 433. 
 
 K. 
 
 Katadenia, depot, II. 169* fort Frederic, 
 170. 
 
 Kattamarans, described, I. 336. 
 
 Kattapa, I. 369. 
 
 King of Candy prepares to attack Columbo, 
 II. 232. 
 
 Knox’s history of Ceylon, extracts from it, 
 I. 21, 126, 151, 240, 243, 356, 358, 
 3 67, 394, 428, 436; II. 324. 
 
 L. 
 
 Lakes of Cogel, I. 185; Columbo, I. 45; 
 Chilauw, 340. 
 
 Land and sea breezes, I. 11. 
 
 Language of Ceylon, Cingalese, I. 11 9; 
 Malabar, 137- 
 
 Leeches, I. 439. 
 
 Lightning, I. 11. 
 
 Linas, I. 378. 
 
 Loquat, I. 387- 
 
 Lubbies, I. 139. 
 
 M. 
 
 Macdowall (General) his embassy to Candy 
 in 1800, II. 162, 287; narrow escape 
 from it in 1803, 205; improvements 
 at Columbo, I, 386; II. 278. 
 
 35 7 
 
 Macdowall (Fort) Captain Madge’s retreat 
 from it, II. 215. 
 
 Macpherson (Captain William) his diary of 
 the embassy to Candy in 1800, II. 287. 
 Mahavillaganga, I. 149; II. 130. 
 Mahometans, I. 139. 
 
 Maize, I. 361. 
 
 Malabars, I. 137, 313. 
 
 Malays, I. 143. 
 
 Manaar, island of, I. 301 ; fort, ib. 
 
 Mango, I. 377. 
 
 Mangusteen, ib. 
 
 Maroongaye, I. 373. 
 
 Marriages of the Cingalese, I. 163. 
 
 Massacre of the British troops at Candy, 
 II. 214. 
 
 Matura, its fort, I. 192; district, ig4. 
 Maundevile (Sir John) his Travels, I. 3. 
 Medical report in April 1803, II. 262. 
 Melicocca, I. 388. 
 
 Melons, I. 378. 
 
 Milton’s description of the Indian fig-tree, 
 I. 366. 
 
 Minerals, I. 13. 
 
 Missionaries in Ceylon, I. 154. 
 
 Modelear, rank of, I. 100. 
 
 Monkies, I. 428. 
 
 Monkies’ bread, II. 35. 
 
 Monsoons, I. 11. 
 
 Moose deer, I. 428. 
 
 Mooto Sawmy (Prince) his pretensions to the 
 throne of Candy, I. ]60; death, 212. 
 Moringa, I. 373. 
 
 Morotto, bungaloe there, I. 168. 
 
 Moss, beautiful kind of, I. 383. 
 
 Mountains, I. 8. * 
 
 Mulgeerelenna, rock, I, 200; and temples 
 203. 
 
 Musk-rat, I, 433. 
 
358 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 N. 
 
 Nails, not used in building houses or boats 
 by the Ceylonese, I. 58. 
 
 Name of the island, I. 4. 
 
 Negombo, I. 341; its fort, 342; surround- 
 ing country, 343. 
 
 Nepenthes distillatoria, I. 382. 
 
 Nindoo Wood, ib. 
 
 North (Governor of Ceylon) studies the 
 happiness of the people, I. 53; revives 
 the ecclesiastical establishments, 159; 
 holds a conference with the Adigar of 
 Candy, II. 160; meets him at Dam- 
 badeuia, 200; leaves Ceylon, I. 84. 
 
 O. 
 
 Oath, manner of administering, I. 262, 329. 
 
 Oil, cinnamon, I, 407; cocoa-nut, I. 351. 
 
 Ogandamally, rock of, II. 139. 
 
 Oranges of Ceylon, I. 3 ”3. 
 
 Orr (William, Esq.) his report on a journey 
 from Tengalle to Batticaloe, II. 79. 
 
 Out-rigger, I. 58. 
 
 Oxen of Ceylon, I. 425. 
 
 Oysters, edible, I. 175; pearl, II. 43; fish- 
 ery of, 50. 
 
 P. 
 
 Pagodas, of Dondra, I. ig5; Cannia, I. 279; 
 Jaffna, 329; Ramisseram, II. 13; Tam- 
 blegam, 128; Saffragam, 252. 
 
 Palm, five species of, I. 350. 
 
 Palm wine, I. 351. 
 
 Palmira tree, I. 353. 
 
 Pantura, I. 170. 
 
 Papai, I. 375. 
 
 Paper, Candian, II. 181. 
 
 Paroquet, I. 434. 
 
 Pearl fishery of, 1804, examination of the 
 banks, II. 41; pearl oysters, 43; mode 
 of diving, 50; washing of the oysters, 
 59; sifting, 60 ; sorting, 62; and dril- 
 ling of the pearls, 64; speculations, 68; 
 nature of the pearl, 68; former fish- 
 eries, 71 ; jugglers, 74; female tum- 
 bler, 76. 
 
 Pearls, price of, II. 66. 
 
 Penance of the Malabars, II. 31. 
 
 Pepper plant, I. 380. 
 
 Periwinkle, I. 172. 
 
 Persons of the inhabitants, I. 94. 
 
 Pigeon, green, I. 433. 
 
 Pine-apple, I. 378. 
 
 Pine, wild tree, I. 320. 
 
 Plantain tree, I. 3/6; fruit, ib. 
 
 Plantations of cinnamon, I. 405. 
 
 Plants, 1.381. 
 
 Point de Galle, harbour, and fort, I. 179. 
 
 Point Pedro, I. 4. 
 
 Pollock (Captain) defeats the Candians, II. 
 233. 
 
 Pomegranate, I. 375. 
 
 Pombon, II. 17; choultry, 18; fort, 21. 
 
 Pomponius Mela, I. 2. 
 
 Population of Ceylon, I. 91. 
 
 Port of Trincomalee, I. 2/0; Point de Galle, 
 1/9- 
 
 Portia tree, I. 3 69 . 
 
 Portuguese inhabitants, I. 88; language, 89; 
 fanaticism of the first invaders, I. 154; 
 II. 37. 
 
 Potato, sweet, I. 326, 381. 
 
 Priests of Buddha, I. 150. 
 
 Pumpkin, I. 381. 
 
 Pumplemose, I. 374. 
 
 Putlam, I. 338. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 359 
 
 Q. 
 
 Quadrupeds, I. 422; elephant, ib. buffa- 
 loe, ib. ox, 425; hog, ib. sheep, 426; 
 horse, 427; deer, ib. hare, 428; wild 
 hog, ib. cheta, ib. cat, ib. bear, ib. 
 jackal, ib. monkey, ib. porcupine, 429; 
 viverra ichneumon, ib. musk-rat, 433. 
 
 Quicksilver, I. 13. 
 
 R. 
 
 Rains, periodical, I. 11; frequent at Co- 
 lumbo, 62. 
 
 Ramisseram, island of, II. C); pagodas, 10; 
 choultries, ib. dancing girls, 1 1 ; Swa- 
 my coaches, 1 6 ; pandaram, 24. 
 
 Reeder (T. A. Esq.) extract from a journal 
 of his tour round Ceylon, II. 145. 
 
 Religion of the Cingalese, I. 145; worship 
 of Buddha, 146; state of Christianity 
 in Ceylon, 154. 
 
 Reptiles, lizard, I. 434; alligator, ib. guana, 
 435; chameleon, ib. cobra di capello, 
 boa, and other snakes, ib. frog, toad, 
 scorpion, centipes, 43g. 
 
 Revenue of the British territories in Cey- 
 lon, I. 16. 
 
 Rice, deficiency of its culture, I. 3pi. 
 
 Ricinus Palma Christi, I. 381. 
 
 Rivers of the island, I. Q. 
 
 Roads, want of, I. 15. 
 
 Rock, cabooc, I. 12; coral, 181. 
 
 Ruby, I. 14. 
 
 S. 
 
 Sago, produced from a palm tree, I. 35/. 
 
 Salt, formed by nature in the province of 
 Magam, II. 110; manner of collecting 
 it. 111; hints for improving the pro- 
 cess, 112. 
 
 Sapphires, I. 15. 
 
 Satin wood, I. 382. 
 
 Scorpion, I. 439. 
 
 Seetavacca, II. 23~. 
 
 Sensitive plant, I. 382. 
 
 Shaddock, I. 346, 3 75. 
 
 Shark charmers, II. 51. 
 
 Sheep, price of, 426. 
 
 Shells, I. 444. 
 
 Small pox, ravages of, I. 254. 
 
 Snakes, I. 435. 
 
 Snipes, I. 434. 
 
 Society, English, I. /4. 
 
 Soil of Ceylon, I. 12. 
 
 Songs of the Cingalese, I. 170. 
 
 Spiders, I. 440. 
 
 Spunges, II. 43. 
 
 Squirrels, I. 429. 
 
 Sugar, extracted from several species of the 
 palm, I. 352, 355. 
 
 Sugar cane, I. 380. 
 
 Sumatra, island of, I. 5. 
 
 Survey of the pearl banks, II. 41. 
 
 Swamy coaches, II. 16; their indecent sculp- 
 tures, ib. 
 
 T. 
 
 Talmanaar, II. 9. 
 
 Taproban, the name given to Ceylon by the 
 Greeks and Romans, I. 2, 4, 5. 
 
 Tailor bird, I. 434. 
 
 Talipot tree, I. 26l, 3 57; leaf, I. 26l. 
 Tamarind tree, I. 370. 
 
 Tamblegam lake, II. 128. 
 
 Tanks, ruins of, II. 85, 9], 98, 99> 129- 
 Tea plant, species of, I. 385 ; real tea tree 
 not found in Ceylon, 386. 
 
 Teak tree, I. 342, 371. 
 
 Temples, Cingalese, at Agrabuddhaganni, 
 
360 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 I. 187; Mulgeerelenna, 203; Heeta- 
 teeah, 208; Dondra, 195; Hindoo, at 
 Dondra, ib. Batticaloe, 259; Cannia, 
 279; Jaffna, 329; Ramisseram, II. 13; 
 Tamblegam, 128; Saffragam, 252. 
 
 Tengalle, 1.2.1; II. 78; its fort, I. 211; 
 
 II. 83, temple, 1.211. 
 
 Tenures, by which the Ceylonese hold their 
 lands, I. 18. 
 
 Termes, I. 440. 
 
 Thunberg (Dr.) I. 389, 410. 
 
 Thunder and lightning, I. 11. 
 
 Tiger, species of, I. 428. 
 
 Tobacco, I. 331. 
 
 Toddy, 1.351. 
 
 Tonitorra, II. 21. 
 
 Tourmalin, I. 14. 
 
 Treaty between the Dutch and Candians, 
 II. 316. 
 
 Treaty proposed between the English and 
 Candians, II. 31 6. 
 
 Trees, cocoa-nut, I. 348; palmyra, 353 ; 
 areca, 355; jaggree, 357; talipot, 26 1, 
 357; jack, 360; bread-fruit, 359; ba- 
 nyan, 362; bogaba, 366; jamboo, 369; 
 • almond, ib. portia, ib. tamarind, 3/0; 
 cotton, ib. teak, 371; cashew, 372; 
 moringa, 373; orange, 373; pumple- 
 mose, 374; guava, 375; papai, ib. 
 pomegranate, ib. plantain, 376; mango. 
 
 377; bamboo, 378; lime, ib. coffee, 
 379; calaminder, 381; cadumberi, ib. 
 ebony, 382; cinnamon, 405. 
 
 Tricoil, its pagoda, II. 137- 
 
 Trincomalee, situation, I. 266; scenery, 
 268; harbour, 270 ; fort, 27 1; houses, 
 274; climate, 2J5. 
 
 Tulip tree, I. 369. 
 
 V. 
 
 Van Anglebeck (Dutch governor) his fune- 
 ral, I. 36. 
 
 Vegetable productions, I. 348. 
 
 Vedahs, or Bedahs, I. 91. 
 
 W. 
 
 Wampee, I. 387. 
 
 Wanny rajah, I. 382. 
 
 War with Candy, II. 155. 
 
 Water, I. 45. 
 
 Winds, I. 11. 
 
 Woods, I. 348. 
 
 Writing, method of, I. 119, 259. 
 
 Y. 
 
 Yams, I. 326. 
 
 Z. 
 
 Zoophytes, II. 43. 
 
 THE END. 
 
 T. Bensley, Printer, Holt Court, 
 Fleet Street, London. 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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